# I need blown caps replaced on a P5B Deluxe



## PizzaMan

Post some pics so we can see what we're up against. Take pic of underside of board to plz.


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## demoship

2 6.3 volt 1800 uF caps need replacing

Don't have the software on this computer to upload pics, but it should be an easy job if you've done any real work with a soldering iron. There's nothing even near the pins on the underside

There's also 3 6.3 volt 820 uF caps that are bulging a bit. I have no idea how expensive caps are or how long it takes to replace one of these things, so I'm not overly concerned about these


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## CL3P20

the caps will be roughly 2$ each... give or take a smidge.

Q- are any of the legs broken off in the mobo holes..?


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## PizzaMan

Do all the caps that need to be replaced have legs that go throw the board or are any of them surface mount?


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## demoship

The pins go through the board as far as I can tell. They all stick out the other side. Not sure what a surface mount one is.

And none of the pins look broken to me

Also -- If you are able to test it, I'm shipping the board with CPU/RAM in the board (the CPU I'm def not taking out since I don't want to damage the fragile LGA 775 pins). The cooler i had to take off (since it's a massive tuniq tower). Right now it gives a BIOS error right before loading windows (or just has a black screen).

How much time does it take to replace the caps?

Also: I don't care what type of caps these are replaced with, the cheap ones are fine (or even used ones as long as they work). I only plan on using this for another month or two, since who knows what other problems this board has.


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## PizzaMan

Board arrived today. Here are the caps to be replaced.


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## CL3P20

the 2x in red are most likely the culprits..they are the MCHv power phase..









*such nice mobo's I love mine


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## Somenamehere

Looks good, I will be following this.


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## soadrocksever

Dang, how long have you had this(just out of curiosity) i've never seen that before. Anyone know the reason behind it?


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## CL3P20

heat


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CL3P20* 
heat

^^^Not enough air flow around his GPU and it heated up the caps to much.

Mod is completed.

Caps removed from board. This was the hardest part. Took almost 10 mins for each cap to heat up enough to release.









The back after removing caps.









New caps!


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## Lord Xeb

Wow man, you can't even tell! Good job as always PM!!!!


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## IntelLover

Works now?


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## CL3P20

good work Pizza







:


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## colin niloc

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PizzaMan* 
^^^Not enough air flow around his GPU and it heated up the caps to much.

Mod is completed.

Caps removed from board. This was the hardest part. Took almost 10 mins for each cap to heat up enough to release.
The back after removing caps.
New caps!


Nice work!


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## Capwn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CL3P20* 
the caps will be roughly 2$ each... give or take a smidge.

Q- are any of the legs broken off in the mobo holes..?

lofl. Sorry again about those legs CL







.

Also . Nice work Pizza


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## CL3P20

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Capwn* 
lofl. Sorry again about those legs CL







.

Also . Nice work Pizza

















.. its no prob man.. you see how qwk though if the caps are still in 1x piece..?!


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
Works now?

Not tested the board yet. I'm switching boards out in my sig rig this weekend and I'll throw his in and test it during that process.


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## demoship

This board is about 3 years old give or take.

The next computer I make I'm getting a graphics card that doesnt run so hot so it doesn't blow out the mobo caps


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *demoship* 
This board is about 3 years old give or take.

The next computer I make I'm getting a graphics card that doesnt run so hot so it doesn't blow out the mobo caps

To bad, heat seems to be the new 'fad'









Anyway, booted Windows just fine for me. Took a quick snap shot. It was easier then waiting on XP to find my mouse. Should be able to ship her home Monday.


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## ez12a

nice job. I replaced over 20 caps in a Dell Optiplex, but it didnt work still







good practice though.

heat may be a contributing factor, and also the good 'ol capacitor plague a while ago. There are millions of those bad caps out ready to fail.


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## Lord Xeb

Cool! Nice job as always PizzaMan!


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## mrfajita

Before higher end boards started using all solid capacitors, it always seemed that Asus had the worst/cheapest electrolytic caps. My brother's also has bulging caps...hmmm that may be why it doesn't work.


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## demoship

So I guess those busted caps were the cause of those errors I got saying the BIOS was corrupt..

Yeah.. unfortunately almost all new hardware generates a lot of heat, but the 8800 GT was particularly bad in that aspect. At least the 2 slot cards had a MUCH bigger fan on them.

What's the MCHv power phase?


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## CL3P20

its the power phase responsible for your NorthBridge Power supply


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## demoship

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CL3P20* 
its the power phase responsible for your NorthBridge Power supply









well.. that explains a lot of things


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *demoship* 
So I guess those busted caps were the cause of those errors I got saying the BIOS was corrupt..

Yeah.. unfortunately almost all new hardware generates a lot of heat, but the 8800 GT was particularly bad in that aspect. At least the 2 slot cards had a MUCH bigger fan on them.

What's the MCHv power phase?

Not sure about PNY's dual-slot cooler, but the EVGA dual-slots where crap compared to their single-slot coolers. The dual-slot coolers where all aluminum and had the roughest surface I've even seen. The single-slot coolers have a copper heat pipe and a fairly smooth surface. I have a buddy with both in his rig and the dual-slot runs ~10C warmer. In comparison to the Ultra that was release prior to the 88GT, the 88GT is a relatively cool card.


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## Voltage_Drop

Good work Pizza man


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## PizzaMan

Just checking to see if you got everything installed and working good for ya?


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## Patch

Nice work Pizza. Removing caps without a torch is a PITA.

Betcha a dollar that's a P5E, not a P5B-Deluxe. Very little difference between the two, but I've seen that white tape "P5B Deluxe" before......

Did you get it from an ebayer in San Jose?


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## demoship

Finally got around to reinstalling this.

Good work! looks like new, and it solved all kinds of problems. Who knew a couple little caps would break all kinds of stuff

I got it off newegg, so i doubt it's some kind of scam...


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## PizzaMan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *demoship*


Finally got around to reinstalling this.

Good work! looks like new, and it solved all kinds of problems. Who knew a couple little caps would break all kinds of stuff












I'm glad it worked out good for you. I was actually surprised when I plugged her in and watched it load windows.


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## demoship

Yeah.. it was getting all kinds of crazy BIOS errors before (and blue screens, etc..).. well.. like CL3 said, those caps power the northbridge.. which is responsible for pretty much everything.

The blue screens got more frequent.. then i started getting BIOS errors, then it flat out wouldn't boot.


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## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Patch* 
Nice work Pizza. Removing caps without a torch is a PITA.

Betcha a dollar that's a P5E, not a P5B-Deluxe. Very little difference between the two, but I've seen that white tape "P5B Deluxe" before......

Did you get it from an ebayer in San Jose?

P5E is x38


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## CL3P20

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


P5E is x38































exactly..and the only difference between the ddr2 versions that I am aware of is the PCI-E lane split..you may even be able to flash/swap BIOS


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## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CL3P20*


exactly..and the only difference between the ddr2 versions that I am aware of is the PCI-E lane split..you may even be able to flash/swap BIOS


P5B Deluxe is completely different. Solid caps, Different chipset etc.. Am I missing something?


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## ericeod

It looks like they are thinking of the P5E, P5E Deluxe, Rampage Formula and Maximus Formula (P5E board has Maximus Formula silk screened on the board and is covered with tape) which are all very similar boards that can be cross flashed. They are the X38/X48 chipset which only differ in the chipset binning and the bios options available.


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## ChrisB17

So I stand corrected the P5E has NOTHING to do with the P5B Deluxe?


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## mAlkAv!An

Yepp, P5B has got the old P965 chipset, P5K uses P35 and P5E X38/X48


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## evildrzoidberg

Hi Guys,

I know I'm replying to a 2-year old thread, but I'm hoping some of you are still around and can help, especially PizzaMan since he did the replacement







.

I have the same problem and need the caps replaced on my P5B. I can do the work, but I'm trying to pick out the correct caps. Would you by any chance have a way to check what caps you used as a replacement? I can see from the caps on the board that they are 6.3V 1800uf 8x20mm Radial Can MCZ caps.

What I don't know is what impedance I should select. I don't see it anywhere on the cap itself, or on the specs i can find on the internet for the MCZ caps. I also see that the existing caps have a 2350 ripple current rating, and i'm not sure what that means or how close I have to be in the ratings.

Any help would be appreciated! I love the board and it's operating great still so I'd like to fix it before i run into any problems.

Thanks!
- edrz


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## PizzaMan

The boards aren't to picky. Match the voltage with enough uF and you should be fine.


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## evildrzoidberg

Awesome, thanks much!!


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## evildrzoidberg

> Match the voltage with enough uF and you should be fine.

So does that mean any capacitor with a uf of 1800 or greater will work as long as it's 6.3v? Digikey's 1800uf 6.3v capacitors are only rated at 2000 hours, so I was hoping to get some rated for longer.

Sorry, I'm not that familiar with electronic theory.


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## PizzaMan

2000 hours seems really low.


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## evildrzoidberg

I thought so too. The entire 1800uf 6.3v list at digikey is rated 2,000-10,000 hours, which doesn't seem much to me. All the 8mm ones are rated at 2,000 hours at 105C.


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## ARandomOWL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evildrzoidberg*
> 
> I thought so too. The entire 1800uf 6.3v list at digikey is rated 2,000-10,000 hours, which doesn't seem much to me. *All the 8mm ones are rated at 2,000 hours at 105C.*


That is an MTBF of 2000 hours if the cap is operating at 105°C the whole time. Decreasing the temperature will considerably increase the MTBF.


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## evildrzoidberg

Ahh, that makes much more sense. I'll order them up then.

Thanks!


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## threepointone

Hey,
I've been running on my P5B Deluxe/Wifi-AP for something like 5 or 6 years now. It's started crapping out, and I actually did a lot of other diagnostics to try to figure out what's wrong. I figure this might be useful for anyone still running on this old beast--a week or two, my computer began to randomly freeze in Windows 7. It started getting worse to the point where I couldn't stay booted. Did RAM tests, stressed other components, but everything else was fine. The only strange quirky behavior was that that it'd occasionally boot and say that the CMOS checksum failed and that the configuration was reset. Realized that there was something wrong with the CMOS RAM, and when I finally went to the motherboard to diagnose (I work on electronics so I'm pretty familiar with fixing this sort of thing). It turns out that modern motherboards store BIOS configuration and the clock in the southbridge, so I check there, and voila, a bunch of bulging, unhappy capacitors. Unlike the OP, the MCh (or whatever) caps are perfectly fine--just the same southbridge caps that are pretty dead (again, right next to my pretty hot GPU). There's a possibility that my EEPROM might be shot as well, but that seems unlikely.

Seeing that this is probably sort of the average lifespan when this particular mobo fails, I figured it'd be useful to let anyone who runs across this page as well--if you're running on a P5B Deluxe and your computer's doing funky stuff, I'd check those Southbridge caps.

Also, someone commented about capacitor life--indeed, electrolytic capacitors are never rated to more than 10,000 hours. Note though that this is usually at the maximum operating temperature (105C or 85C). The increase in life is usually something like about 2x life every 10 degrees Celcius. Interesting numbers--the caps that failed were rated to 2000 hours at 105C. 3 years continuous operation (I leave my computer on a lot--50% on is pretty accurate) is about 27,000 hours. Rule of thumb is about 2x life per 10 degree drop; this means the caps might've been running at 75C, which isn't what my southbridge temp measurements were, though it's not ridiculously off (like those motherboards back in the day that failed in a month or so). Anyway, these are crap "TK" brand ATWY series caps.

Well, if anyone runs into weird things going on their computer and have a P5B deluxe motherboard, it's probably either time to get a new mobo or time to recap.

Evilzoidberg: I'm actually curious, did you run into the same symptoms that I was?


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## demoship

I think I ended up using the repaired board w/o issue for another year or so before that machine had other issues (graphics card blew out, and eventually my windows install bricked, and that was when I got fed up w/ that machine). I have no idea if they were related to the mobo or not. By the time I was done with it, there were other caps bulging out (not sure if they were the replaced ones or not, I already tossed the board in the trash). The mobo went back into the same case with crap airflow, and the same GPU (until it burned out) was put in the slot next to the caps again, so I'm not surprised that caps were showing signs of problems again.

If you want a computer that's going to last more then 3 years running 24/7, I recommend (for your next build/upgrade) that you buy a mobo with all solid caps like I did this time. Once caps start bursting, replacing them (if there's not other damage to board caused by the caps) is a temporary fix at best, because whatever caused the old capacitors to blow out is going to cause the new ones to blow out as well. I also got a better case this time with better airflow that's easier to work with. Last time around I got the cheapest case I could find, and that POS was falling apart too. That was the first PC I built, so those were a few of the mistakes I made. At least it lasted longer then a dell would.


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## CL3P20

necro much


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## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CL3P20*
> 
> necro much


Well it's his own thread lol


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