# Modding the Hp-dv6 laptop (Model 6199) to reduce the high temperature



## bdr33733

*High temperature is the main disadvantage of some Hp laptops and despite that this particular model (6199ee) is not suffering from this problem but i tried to squeeze the best performance out of my notebook .*

Specs. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c02866517&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&cc=emea_middle_east&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=5116523

*In trying to do so I made the following procedures:
1- I changed the thermal paste of the CPU and GPU with better one (Antec Formula 7)
2- Removed the air filters from the intake openings to increase the cold airflow
3- Modified the direction of the cold air intake inside the heatsink of the laptop*

First remove the laptop charger and the battery then remove the back cover of the lap
Remove all the screws marked with the green and white arrows taking care of the different nail sizes and their places
push the dvd-drive to the left side
remove the RAM sticks by pushing the metal sides away from the RAM stick to pop the RAMs out


unplug the HDD cable by gently pulling it up from the marked black holder



unplug the two marked cables and marked keyboard nail



unplug the white and black wireless card cables then slide the wireless card out



on the upper side of the lap gently (using your nails) try to pop up the keyboard starting from the *upper* left (or right) corner


Do NOT forget to unplug the KB cable (placed under the keyboard) from the motherboard


remove all the marked screws and unplug the three cables pointed in the below picture


don't forget to unscrew those three tiny screws above the dvd drive bay


starting from the upper right (or left) corner using small screw driver try to remove the upper cover of the lap



here's the motherboard finally, now unplug the marked cables from the motherboard


which are the two screen cables




the cooling fan cable


and the front speakers audio cable


remove the motherboard three tiny screws



now the motherboard is loose, on the right side of the motherboard unplug that last cable gently


remove the motherboard by sliding it out gently to the right then up out of the lap casing


the marked place is where to be modified later to allow the cooling fan to draw more cold air from under the lap


use compressed air can to blow the dust from the cooling fan


the heatsink screws must be removed in the same order of the marked numbers to avoid damaging the copper pipes



now remove the solidified thermal paste using strong orgaing solvent (I used toluene that gave me very good results)





apply the new thermal paste , Antec formula-7 thermal paste gave me much better results than the Arctic MX4


modding the direction of the cold air flow intake will need you to cut the plastic body of the lap (using your Dremel) at the marked place which is right below the cooling fan of the heatsink
I also removed the air filters from the lap openings to increase the amount of cold air intake




cut a piece of hard wire mesh to protect the cooling fan and fix it in place using strong adhesive paste (like Epoxy)



now reasemble the lap parts in reverse order to give you the final result as in the picture below


*RESULTS*

Before changing the thermal paste I had min temp of 38ْ C and max of 80ْ C in room temp of 24ْ C
temp was usually stable at 44ْ C


After modding the direction of the air intake, results were as follows
in ideal state after booting


after 15 min of playing Crysis 2 game i had max temp of 70ْ C (10ْ C cooler)


after stressing with AIDA64 for 5 min


compared to the following result (which was taken from Lenovo Y500 laptop) I think I made an awesome modding to my Hp










*The best part is that using the notebook cooler under the laptop now can make a difference in temp,
before that modding the notebook cooler has never improved the lap temp*









Have fun and sorry for the long post







........


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## bdr33733

since no one is posting to that thread ,so I thought i post to myself









the last fan modding was not neat enough for me so I made more professional job widening the fan inlet hole at the laptop body ,and now i'm happy with the end result





The weird thing is that the temperature got even better now after widening that fan inlet hole


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## Imglidinhere

+Rep for this one!

I keep telling my friend he needs to let me do this to his machine but he's too much of a woman to let me do it.


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## WolfFX

Man, this is very inspiring







I'm currently battling with myself with the idea to do that on my MSI GS70 notebook. The intake holes are also not under the fan itself, and this limits the airflow. I tested running stress tests with the bottom lid off and the temperature decreases were huge.
Here's a poorly idea of the place to open new holes:


Did you notice any side-effects when you did your project? Did the fan noise increase too much? Any info that would help me take the leap?
Thanks anyways for your documenting and detailed post!


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## TheReciever

Ill actually be doing something similar to my own laptop at this point.

This write up was really well done though, shame it didnt get more spotlight.


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## huckedmiked

wish i could do that to my asus notebook too...


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## WolfFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huckedmiked*
> 
> wish i could do that to my asus notebook too...


Why can't you? Still in warranty? Afraid to open the case?


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## huckedmiked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFX*
> 
> Why can't you? Still in warranty? Afraid to open the case?


planning to mod next week... Got already the right tools..


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## TheReciever

Already modded mine, but still need to clean it up and actually finish it for display purposes lol


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## bdr33733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WolfFX*
> 
> Man, this is very inspiring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently battling with myself with the idea to do that on my MSI GS70 notebook. The intake holes are also not under the fan itself, and this limits the airflow. I tested running stress tests with the bottom lid off and the temperature decreases were huge.
> Here's a poorly idea of the place to open new holes:
> 
> 
> Did you notice any side-effects when you did your project? Did the fan noise increase too much? Any info that would help me take the leap?
> Thanks anyways for your documenting and detailed post!


You welcome sir.
Sorry for the late reply, never thought the topic is still alive









as for your question ,no side effects at all for more than a year now , working great ,cool and absolutely quiet .The most impressive achievment to that mod is the easy cleaning of the fans with no need to take the bottom labtop cover off









I think the results in your case will be much better due to the presence of 2 intake fans insted of one


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## Skimwolf

Hello, I have a question regarding the grill that you fixed, can you provide more details please, I am planning to make the same for an Acer 3830TG laptop and have that in conjunction with a cooler and some added Al heatsinks


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## zelounge

First, thank you to bdr33733 for sharing his inspiring project.









Second, allow me to add my own specific experience to bdr33733's. This is meant as complementary to bdr33733's guide, not a replacement.

*Modding the HP dv6-06b88ss*


*RESULTS & CONCLUSIONS*
1. Replacing the thermal paste was a must. The old thermal paste was dried and not covering the whole thermal surface of the CPU.


2. Making a fan inlet makes a significant improvement on both temperature and fan noise. This CPU stress test graph shows the temperature with the fan inlet hole unblocked (A & C) and blocked (B). What the graph does not tell you is that, first, the fan was not running at maximum, but kicked in max after about 30s of blocked inlet (B), and second, the sound pitch of the fan is lower with the inlet as it's not working as hard (I hear more air flow and less motor&#8230; less annoying to my ears)


*MY MODDING*
I decided to go with bdr33733's 2nd approach: round inlet. And size it as close to the fan inlet size, which is 40mm (a little less than 1 in 5/8). Also, I disassembled the back speakers and the display assembly to make is easier to work with the base cover and less risky to damage the LCD. I do not have a dremel, but I have a drill and got a circular saw. Here I go&#8230;
a. Used a sharp needle to mark the bottom and have a location reference

(after note: I could have simply removed the fan from the heatsink, put back the motherboard in place, and mark the fan circle with a pen or marker... it would have been a lot simpler... and more accurate.)

b. Marked the center.

Notice the 2 grills (50mm and 80mm), I choose the 50mm because the third ring from the center is the closest to 40mm, on the 80mm it was about 48mm. Also, the 50mm grill use thinner wire.

c. Drilled the center.


d. Drilled the hole with a 41mm circular saw. (cut slowly and in steps, so the plastic does not get hot and melt)


e. The hole.

Notice the uncut inside metal plate? Pay attention. My initial idea was to cut the inside plate with a slightly bigger circular saw, so I would get room to sit one branch of the grill. Well I screwed up. While trying to cut the metal plate, it got hot enough that it started to melt the plastic. But I did manage to cut enough so I could break the plate by plying it and fiddling with it&#8230; eventually and then filed the edge of the metal plate.

f. Fixing the grill. I used metal epoxy.




g. Prepare for more epoxy. I need to add epoxy all around but the outer ring is 40mm and the hole is about 41.5mm, that means that the epoxy might very much overflow underneath. So... I made a strip of very thick paper (like business card) and folded box tape so the edge would not stick too much to the epoxy and then placed it in the gap.


h. Positioned the paper strip while I had the bottom elevated.


i. Applied the epoxy all around.


j. Before the epoxy get too hard I removed the paper strip.


k. Cut top exceeding epoxy off the branches. I'm putting a metal mesh (to catch anything bigger than dust) on top of the grill (from inside) and I need to keep the final result as thin and low as possible, so it does not touch the fan.


l. Press it while hardens. As soon as the epoxy is applied around the mesh I covered with a food wrapping cellophane, card board of appropriate size and some weight to flatten as much as possible, the mesh and the epoxy.


m. Flat mesh.


n. Outside result.


*MY MISTAKES*
1. Mesh on the fan case. My first approach did not work because the center of the fan exceeds and touches the mesh.
 

2. Cutting the inner metal plate with a circular saw. As I mentioned, cutting the metal plate was getting it hot enough to melt the plastic underneath. Lucky me I stopped remembering that metal cutting can become quite hot.

(post note: I'm still wondering what would be the easiest way to cut that metal bracket. The circular saw could be done, but with a press drill to stay dead center, and by step to keep temp below plastic melting. Another alternative is to remove entirely the metal bracket, cut out what's in the way, then put it back and glued... but that is a little more complicated because one of the screws holding it is unreachable. Otherwise the dremel is probably the easiest approach.)

*
THERMAL PASTE*
Here is what it looked like before I put back the heatsink back. The MX-4 seems to work well (time will tell). As shown earlier, original paste was a waste (after 5 years of use) and from close examination it did not seem like it was covering the entire thermal surface.


*DISCOVERIES*
Fan is not clipped. On all the jammed fans I have opened, there were little clip to keep the blades in place. To my surprise, while vacuuming the fan the blades came off and discovered that it's only holding by magnetism. So I took advantage of that to put new oil on the center axis.

.
.
.
That's it folks.








Have fun.


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## luisxd

Awesome idea!, i just did it and got 15C-20C less on my cpu


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## TheReciever

Nice work man!


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## PCCstudent

I ask if you actually opened up the cooling fan, there can be lots of material inside affecting airflow and dirt. I was all set to mod my Sony Vaio SR590 as it was way too hot (reached 91C). Turns out it was "services" running under win 10 causing high cpu load. Should a laptop be able to run 75-100% cpu load and not get hot? We do not expect our desktop machines to run cool unmodded under that situation.


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## manuelpm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luisxd*
> 
> Awesome idea!, i just did it and got 15C-20C less on my cpu


@luisxd you have a pm asking you about the mod you did in your toshiba.

I have a toshiba l750 upgraded from a i5 2410m to an i7 2670qm and im needing some info about how the temps are going in your, after cutting the bottom.

Im asking to you because you are the only one who i have seen with the mod in toshiba satellite L6xx or L75x laptop.

Thanks man, and btw my system is really hot, in idle goes from 50ºC with 30% cpu charge at 75ºC and with full CPU charge at 100ºC, its not shooting down automaticly, but is dangeroues, so is important your answer.

Can you post a picture about how are temperatures going with some cpu charge?

Best regards


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## luisxd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manuelpm*
> 
> @luisxd you have a pm asking you about the mod you did in your toshiba.
> 
> I have a toshiba l750 upgraded from a i5 2410m to an i7 2670qm and im needing some info about how the temps are going in your, after cutting the bottom.
> 
> Im asking to you because you are the only one who i have seen with the mod in toshiba satellite L6xx or L75x laptop.
> 
> Thanks man, and btw my system is really hot, in idle goes from 50ºC with 30% cpu charge at 75ºC and with full CPU charge at 100ºC, its not shooting down automaticly, but is dangeroues, so is important your answer.
> 
> Can you post a picture about how are temperatures going with some cpu charge?
> 
> Best regards


I can't use that laptop anymore since the charger died but my temperatures before the mod were ~40C idle / ~70C load, even with only mozilla and a few tabs open it used to go up until 70C. After the mod it went down to ~35C idle / ~50C load. Also with the mod i replaced the thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5 and all the thermal pads inside with new ones.


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## denisbill

*Get Help*

I keep telling my friend he needs to let me do this to his machine but he's too much of a woman to let me do it. HP Customer Support


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