# DIY Triple Monitor Mount



## adamski07

damn.. looks easy to do.. im going on eyefinity soon.. just gave me an idea to do the same thing.. good job man!


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## Ben the OCer

Impressive work, I especially like how you routed the power cable through the pipe for clean cable management. How exactly did you do the power cable routing in the pipe, is the pipe big enough so the end connector fits or was there more involved?


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## derickwm

Nice. Build me one


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## cgg123321

Too awesome. Did you ever consider a table clamp version? Or would that not be feasible?


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## Simonzi

Looks very nice. I'm going to have to keep this in mind, I plan grabbing 3x 24" monitors in the near future, and was having trouble finding a a mount for all 3 that was less than the monitors. Making my own didn't even cross my mind.


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## ACM

Man make that base bigger, I would freak out putting monitors on that.


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## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer*
> 
> Impressive work, I especially like how you routed the power cable through the pipe for clean cable management. How exactly did you do the power cable routing in the pipe, is the pipe big enough so the end connector fits or was there more involved?


The connectors did not fit through the pipes, but I am very handy with a soldering iron, so I cut the ends of, fished the cables through, and soldered them together at the T fitting with some slack, and pulled it all inside the T. Oh, and lots of heatshrink to keep any shorts from happening.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgg123321*
> 
> Too awesome. Did you ever consider a table clamp version? Or would that not be feasible?


I considered a clamp version, and even have clamps. It's just that my desk has a vertical wall on the back so I can't put clamps there for me. I'd assume it would work fine as long as your clamps dont crush your desk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simonzi*
> 
> Looks very nice. I'm going to have to keep this in mind, I plan grabbing 3x 24" monitors in the near future, and was having trouble finding a a mount for all 3 that was less than the monitors. Making my own didn't even cross my mind.


This is exactly why I built mine!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACM*
> 
> Man make that base bigger, I would freak out putting monitors on that.


Actually, that steel plate is about 30 lbs, and really holds this thing in place! But I did do some things to prevent catastrophe, like mounting the stand to the back of the plate. Since the monitors are front heavy, this helps prevent it from tipping foward. Side to side is then balanced due to good ol' symmetry.
I've been checking my mount since this post, and so far have not found any sagging, loosening, etc.


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## sammmmm

you should my diy triple monitor mount arm too....hihihi..


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## Geglamash

Awesome stand, way cool!


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## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Awesome stand, way cool!


Thanks, I wonder where those awesome monitors came from...


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## JokerDragon

Nice work! Could you send me the PDF file? Whats the hole in the inside clamp on each VESA mount? What size Monitor did you use. I have 24 inch ones I want to mount. Where did you buy the quarter inch steel base mount?


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## pjneder

Awesome!!! I'm going to do this myself now that I am getting matching Acer's to flank my center screen.

I have one quick question that I did not see answered in the thread. How did you calculate the offset of the clamps so the heights would come out even?

Thanks.


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## eovnu87435ds

I just edited my first post to include the PDF of the template I made for making these mounting plates. enjoy!

VESA.pdf 211k .pdf file


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## legoman786

You got featured on Lifehacker!!

http://lifehacker.com/5914266/diy-triple-monitor-stand


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## eovnu87435ds

You sir, just made my day! I am glad everybody likes the design!


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## GanjaSMK

Cool dude.


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## iCrap

Just found this from lifehacker. Nice work!


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## duhjuh

featured in spiceworks through lifehacker lol








http://community.spiceworks.com/topic/229916-diy-triple-monitor-stand


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## jhremo3

Awesome job!

Quick question for the builder: you obviously have a good "feel" for the stand and for how sturdy it is. Do you think that one could substitute an X-fitting for the central T-fitting, make 2 tiers of monitors and double it to a six-monitor stand? I think it could work, but it might be necessary to jump to 3/4" or even 1" RSC. But I'm curious if you think the 1/2" conduit & fittings could handle it, and also if there would be balance issues.

Thanks for sharing this project!


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## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhremo3*
> 
> Awesome job!
> Quick question for the builder: you obviously have a good "feel" for the stand and for how sturdy it is. Do you think that one could substitute an X-fitting for the central T-fitting, make 2 tiers of monitors and double it to a six-monitor stand? I think it could work, but it might be necessary to jump to 3/4" or even 1" RSC. But I'm curious if you think the 1/2" conduit & fittings could handle it, and also if there would be balance issues.
> Thanks for sharing this project!


Now, there is no science done behind what I'm about to say, so take it all with a grain of salt, but This stand feels incredibly strong. And that's even with big holes cut in it. For a pipe, those holes really remove a lot of structural integrity. But alas, not only does it work, but it can withstand being picked up from one end the stand, while all the monitors were attached. You could probably build it out of the 1/2" steel tubing for a 6x monitor no problem. The complications I have come up with are as follows.

1. The second vertical piece(above the + fitting) may have to be custom cut and threaded to give you the perfect height that you wanted. It isn't a big problem if home depot/lowes has a complimentary threading machine with the tubing, but if not, the tools needed to do so are too expensive to use just for one job.

2. With another 3 monitors higher up, you need to worry about the torque of the monitors wanting to fall forward. I would use a heavier plate, and instead of just tapping the bolts into the steel plate, put them through with washers and lock nuts on the other end, to ensure they don't pull through. My monitors weigh 10 lbs each, so thats approx 45 foot pounds of torque. If I were to do a second tier, I'd be looking at an additional 75 foot pounds of torque, for a total of 120 foot pounds of torque. That's quite a bit of force exerted on the base of the stand.

On the other side, if you move to 1" tubing, you may not only be able to easily route power within the stand, but also squeeze in HDMI cables, so that all the cables are cleanly hidden!

Looking forward to see what you come up with!


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## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JokerDragon*
> 
> Nice work! Could you send me the PDF file? Whats the hole in the inside clamp on each VESA mount? What size Monitor did you use. I have 24 inch ones I want to mount. Where did you buy the quarter inch steel base mount?


All of my parts were from the local plumbing supply warehouse and Lowe's. All of the parts can be found at either place, its just a matter of convenience/price. They're 23" monitors, but 24" should be fine. The PDF is up, and the holes for the VESA screws are slightly larger than 4mm to accommodate the M4 screws used. The rest is put together with wood screws.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjneder*
> 
> Awesome!!! I'm going to do this myself now that I am getting matching Acer's to flank my center screen.
> I have one quick question that I did not see answered in the thread. How did you calculate the offset of the clamps so the heights would come out even?
> Thanks.


If you see the 8th picture in the original post, what I did was assemble the arms and made them level with the ground. Then, with the monitors sitting on their stock stands, I held it up, and screwed all 3 monitors to it. Since they were all on their identical stock stands, it ensured that they'd be level when I removed the stands and put the vertical upright in place.


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## Lawngahnome

I'm about to try this design with a second tier. I'm only putting a 4th monitor on, not going to 6, so I don't think the weight will be a problem. I'll post some pics when I finish. I'm also going to be mounting the stand straight to my desk.

EDIT: finished my 4 monitor stand. Check it out here.


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## ACIDpwns

nice work


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## scie5

Thanks bud, this is an awesome build, thank you very much for sharing this with us, i hope to be trying this out at the end of the week, and i cant thank you enough for the VESA Pdf that will save a lot of time. 10 out of 10.


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## th3m3nt4l

So I'm stuck, Can't find Steel Piping N plating here in Chile... at least from the "homedepot/Lowes" equivalent here (called Sodimac). I can get bronze. Would that work?


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## eovnu87435ds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *th3m3nt4l*
> 
> So I'm stuck, Can't find Steel Piping N plating here in Chile... at least from the "homedepot/Lowes" equivalent here (called Sodimac). I can get bronze. Would that work?


Bronze/brass will probably work out, most LCD/LED monitors are not that heavy... What I'd be worried about is that it will be a softer metal than the steel, and you may not be able to clamp the monitors in place that well. Of course, I have no proof to back any of this up.


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> Bronze/brass will probably work out, most LCD/LED monitors are not that heavy... What I'd be worried about is that it will be a softer metal than the steel, and you may not be able to clamp the monitors in place that well. Of course, I have no proof to back any of this up.


Thanks for the update. Turns out that a Old Family Friend... knows a guy that works for a company Called Vulco, which produces steel piping. The guys there made the pipe for me @ as close to US standards as possible. Is working out great atm. Though I just use 1 45 angle for each side monitor. The 2 does provide more "flexibility", but because of the nature of my setup provided far more head ache then needed.

When ever I return the states, i'm going to do one of those Case/Desk combos(have a almost completed 3d mock up done), and Do the monitor stand right. Get steel mounting plates for each monitor, and "square" arms and build it like the Orginal DYI monitor stand guy did (where it uses a bunch of 90's so that the monitors can be put into any angle)


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## Chillypepper

nice work heer i show you mine new trippel monitor XP



http://vimeo.com/56264471

details of hardware in the link under the video


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## kt22377

I just wanted to thank you vary much for this post it helped me out a lot. Was having a hard time figuring out a cost effective way to mount my monitors with out paying as much for a stand as I did for my monitors.


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## rfkrocktk

Hi, I just actually started the build for my triple display setup and was inspired by your solution for the VESA mount. Can you please comment on where you got those set-screw fasteners to fasten your custom VESA mount to the pipe? I'm building my mount out of 1" diameter steel pipe.


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rfkrocktk*
> 
> Hi, I just actually started the build for my triple display setup and was inspired by your solution for the VESA mount. Can you please comment on where you got those set-screw fasteners to fasten your custom VESA mount to the pipe? I'm building my mount out of 1" diameter steel pipe.


I ended up using Pipe clamps. They come in all sizes, including 1" you can find them at a low's or homedepot. fairly easy to install and a ride range of variation- I'd stay away from the ones with a screw in the middle.. at first thought it looks to be a good idea for being able to rotate your monitor, but over time can't hold the weight.


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## rfkrocktk

With regular over-pipe clamps without set screws, did you find that the monitor naturally wanted to pivot downward? IE: with regular over-pipe clamps w/o setscrew, were you able to get it stable without it moving?

I've got 25-30lb 27" monitors.


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## th3m3nt4l

Theirs a few ways to circumvent it. I'm using 3x 24" asus atm roughly 5 lbs less than yours. What I did was drilled the holes where the clamps would go, the flipped the board over and counter sunk them so the heads would lie flat. this allowed me to tighten the nut down on the clamps so that enough friction against the board was present that it wouldn't "sag" and with a little muscle still allow me to rotate the monitor up or down so that the edges aligned properly.


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## RevTL

Just before Halloween I tackled the 6 monitor project. I used the pipe clamps with the bolts and backed them up with nuts to provide extra grab. I purchased everything from Home Depot. I bolted the stand into my desk and since I had a permanent shelf behind my monitors I used a pipe strap to keep it from wanting to fall forward. This was only necessary because my desk is sort of thin.

I wasn't too concerned about wiring. I strapped everything and sent it through the desk to the computer which is on an open face drawer.



You can read my write-up here. I used the VESA pattern provided here by eovnu87435ds, the thread starter. I have since made a dual monitor stand and a water resistant shield for a 15" monitor to go under a drip tank for my shop.

You can read about the recently updated monitor and stand situation here.

Thank you eovnu87435ds for the inspiration.


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## rfkrocktk

Interesting. I'm actually in process of assembling my setup now. There's a bit more to do, and I went with a little different of a design:



I wanted it to be more secure, so I added separate feet on the sides. This is cool also because I can manually set the angle. I'm also mounting monitors over the pipe using pipe clamps:



It's EXTREMELY difficult to get it on, but it works great. (Invested literally 30-1hr last night getting one on.) I've since lowered the whole stand by using 8" pipes instead of 12" pipes, so now my neck doesn't hurt as much


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## Bezna

^ THATS COOL!


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## rfkrocktk

Glad you like it







It'll be really cool once it's done, lol. It's going to be a long process.

Basically, today I need to paint the new 8" stand pipes, install a second monitor on one, get my angle right, drill 4 holes on the left, setup the right one at the same angle, drill 4 holes on the right, and then pwnage.

It's going to take a while. I'm going use EVGA StepUp to upgrade my 670 Superclocked+ to a 680 FTW+ or Classified and get a CROSSOVER 2720MDP. After that, it'll be slowly replacing the 1080p monitors with the crossovers until we're at 7860x1440, then at some point purchasing another GPU for SLI goodness


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## Bezna

Nice! Looks like the road ahead of you will be a fun one!


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## kt22377

Using a piece of rubber from a vacuum belt glued between the pipe and the pipe mount worked out well for me.


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## Duski

i certainly enjoy the video, wish i could see the pictures, oddly i cant though, anyone know a reason as to why not? images taken down or something? i have 1 - 27" at and found the same one i have on sale for $200 each, so thinking of getting the 3 for my nvidia setup though i could run 4 vertical, though 3 landscape would suffice. just need to see a DIY and sadly cant, anyone help?


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duski*
> 
> i certainly enjoy the video, wish i could see the pictures, oddly i cant though, anyone know a reason as to why not? images taken down or something? i have 1 - 27" at and found the same one i have on sale for $200 each, so thinking of getting the 3 for my nvidia setup though i could run 4 vertical, though 3 landscape would suffice. just need to see a DIY and sadly cant, anyone help?


If you need a DIY tripple monitor mount, then I can give you the list of parts and a description of what to do, but I don't have any images uploaded to anything currently.

5x 1/2' steel pipe
2 or 4x 1/2 steel pipe 45 degree elbows*
1x 1/2' steel T junction
6x 1/2" aluminum conduit clamps (ask for ones that can be used to mount conduit to walls as they will have the necessary holes to screw into the MDF board)
3x MDF board cut to allow 1/2 inch on all sides from where they will be screwed into (this is a strength/support issue)
1x 12x12' steel plate
1x 1/2' flange

12 or 24 of 4mm x 20 screws

if 24 of the top, then 12x 4mm nuts

Connect 3 of the steel pipes do the "T" junction. Drill holes in the 12x12" steel plate to mount the flange & mount the flange. You'll want to flip the Plate over and counter-sync the wholes so that the bolts or large screws can lay flat, or if your good at welding you can skip the whole drill/screw portion and just weld the flange to the Plate.

You are going to want to put the flange close to one of the edges, minus about an inch to an inch and a half.

Take you 3x MDF boards, drill holes all the way through for the 4x4mm screws (4 per monitor). You can counter sink these as well to "hide" the screws. get them attached to the monitors. Follow this up by taking your T junction setup (not attached to the flang or base plate- again NOT attached) and place in the center of each board for laying out where the conduit straps will be screwed into.

For that last part, you can use short wood screws to screw down the conduit clamp, then un-screw them and drill out the holes, then use an additional 12 4mmx20 screws and Nuts to actually mount the monitors. If you choose to go this route, it will make life easier if you have to move or replace a monitor.

Once all the wholes/markings for the conduit straps are done. Mount the "T" junction to the Flange/base plate. Attached your 45 degree elbows. I stared this at the top because if you just use 2 your stuck with a 45 degree (which works nicely for mine and the op's needs) or you can use 4 and have any angle you want, but will require you to drop where your conduit straps mount by about and 1 and a 1/2. Attach the two remaining 1/2 steel pipe to the open ends of the 45 degree elbows. put the conduit clamps over the newly attached pipes and screw them into the mdf board and Your Mounting is done.

I'll set up a second drop box folder if you really really really want pictures.


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## Duski

Do greatly appreciate it, i meant to login from another computer last night to see if its just my work computer that wont load images, but with this info it will certainly help!


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## philolee

could you tell us the lengths of the pipes? im in the process of setting mine up but i think will have a gap in the middle cuz the middle pipe is going to be too long.... also how did you manage to get the monitors from tilting forwards on the arm? (not the conduit thing but like to prevent the pipes from loosening)


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philolee*
> 
> could you tell us the lengths of the pipes? im in the process of setting mine up but i think will have a gap in the middle cuz the middle pipe is going to be too long.... also how did you manage to get the monitors from tilting forwards on the arm? (not the conduit thing but like to prevent the pipes from loosening)


For your pipes you want them to equal about a foot (10-12 inches). For your Mid pipe you'll want 2 around 5-7 inches (depending on size of monitor), for your 2 side monitors go for a strait 10 to 12 inches. I went with just 2 45 degree elbows (side monitors sit at that angle), and I tightened the elbows down till I couldn't turn them any more by hand to see where they sat. Once I saw how the elbows were looking, I backed them off till they were level with the mid peace, and used a sharpy marker to mark on the middle piece where the elbow needed to stop. After that I removed the elbow and used Tephlon (lots of it) up to the marked point so that there would be enough Friction in the joint areas to stop the elbow from rotating down.

if your forearms don't hurt when you finish, then your joints aren't tight enough.


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## Masta Squidge

Nice, except I don't have vesa mounts on mine... so I have to come up with some kind of clamp setup to pull this off.


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## philolee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *th3m3nt4l*
> 
> For your pipes you want them to equal about a foot (10-12 inches). For your Mid pipe you'll want 2 around 5-7 inches (depending on size of monitor), for your 2 side monitors go for a strait 10 to 12 inches. I went with just 2 45 degree elbows (side monitors sit at that angle), and I tightened the elbows down till I couldn't turn them any more by hand to see where they sat. Once I saw how the elbows were looking, I backed them off till they were level with the mid peace, and used a sharpy marker to mark on the middle piece where the elbow needed to stop. After that I removed the elbow and used Tephlon (lots of it) up to the marked point so that there would be enough Friction in the joint areas to stop the elbow from rotating down.
> 
> if your forearms don't hurt when you finish, then your joints aren't tight enough.


lol thanks for the measurements. i have 2 monitors that are 21.5 inches wide so i guess 2 12" pipes are too long for the middle part right? im terrible with a drill... keep going in on a slight angle... any suggestions that doesnt require a drill press?


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## greg0rz

Just curious, *what size M4 screws did you guys use*? The 20 mm were too short for 3/4'' MDF and the 40mm seem too long.

Also *what size drill bit did you use for your pilot holes for the M4 screws*?

Any help appreciated. Thanks!

*PS philolee*, i feel your pain. I glued together a little L from scrap wood and used it as a guide for my bit. Still tough, but works better than going in blind!


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## Masta Squidge

Screw length is irrelevant, get a couple washers!


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## greg0rz

Good point. Do the M4 screws need to actually screw into the board, or can they slide through and rely on the force created from screwing into the monitor?


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## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg0rz*
> 
> Good point. Do the M4 screws need to actually screw into the board, or can they slide through and rely on the force created from screwing into the monitor?


Just drill a hole, and screw them into the monitor. That is how a standard vesa mount works anyways.

And actually, if you have some skill with a bench grinder, you can cut screws exactly to length, then grind the edges carefully to a slight angle to duplicate the factory bevel. I do it like twice a month at work, but you should have washers in there anyways.

I would use a fender washer to spread out the force so as to not sink into the wood and loosen up, and a lock washer to keep things from backing off.


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## greg0rz

Haha if only I had any experience with woordworking, bench grinders, welding, etc. This project is one of my first and I've been back and forth to Home Depot so many times already. Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give them a try.


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## th3m3nt4l

Missed a lot of comments:

The m4 20mm did seem a little short and the 40mm did seem long. Luckily i'm in chile and they have 20/30/40mm here so I grabed the 30mm and they seemed "just right".

As Master Squidge said, you can get the longer ones and use a couple of washers for proper spacing. Even with my 30mm I used washers. Though I used washers with rubber attached to them so that they "squished" down nice and tight.

As for the gentlemen trying to get strait holes in their mdf board. There is a couple thing you could do: The simpilist is to work on a bench or table that is low, this will allow you to get your center of weight over the drill and allow you to see if you are at an angle or strait on. Another option is to use a hand level (its usually the really small levels with a small magnetic strip on them) and fasten it to the drill so that you can see 2 of the 3 measuring bubbles and just tilt the drill till they are centered.

If you have a vise or something that can hold the wood so you aren't trying to do too much at one time you'll have a much easier time.

To the Poster with the 21.5 inch monitors: Go with 9-10 inch long pipe, on my 24"s the end of the pipe is almost damn flush with the end of the monitor, it would be flush but I have the monitors pushed in a little to kind of help hide the bezel a bit.


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## greg0rz

So I have finally created all my blocks. I was having a really annoying time with the MDF (it wouldnt fit in the recessed VESA area for the U2312HM). so I ordered an intermediary piece:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W0ETD2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this will allow me to easily take off my monitors and put them back onto the stands if necessary.

One thing I'd like to note. My piping, [12in long]()[10 in long]()[12 in long], is a bit too small for my 23 inch monitors (they're ~21.5'' wide). Just make sure to double check your measurements before you go out and buy!


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg0rz*
> 
> So I have finally created all my blocks. I was having a really annoying time with the MDF (it wouldnt fit in the recessed VESA area for the U2312HM). so I ordered an intermediary piece:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W0ETD2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> this will allow me to easily take off my monitors and put them back onto the stands if necessary.
> 
> One thing I'd like to note. My piping, [12in long]()[10 in long]()[12 in long], is a bit too small for my 23 inch monitors (they're ~21.5'' wide). Just make sure to double check your measurements before you go out and buy!


Don't just measure with the pipes, Rember that your elbows are about 3inchs long and the t junction will be about 3.5-4~ inches as well. Also your center monitor will attache very close to the T junction, so a if a lot doesn't stick out thats fine as the side monitors don't need to be 100% center on their bars, in fact if you don't have a lot sticking out or have to attached some where around the last 3/4 of the pipe, then thats a good thing and will look more "polished".


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## greg0rz

It's not even close :-/. I think I'll go back to Home Depot and look at some other size piping. Maybe 12 inches for both the inner ones rather than 10.

Update: Still wasn't big enough, had to use a coupler and 5 inch piping in addition.

Everything is so uneven I just give up haha.


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## mangerda

Your great idea inspired me to do the same. The only thing different was I had to use 18in poles on the outside monitors because I'm using 22in Monitors. I added speakers on each side by using a 90 degree, 6inch pole, and a 1/2" flange.


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mangerda*
> 
> Your great idea inspired me to do the same. The only thing different was I had to use 18in poles on the outside monitors because I'm using 22in Monitors. I added speakers on each side by using a 90 degree, 6inch pole, and a 1/2" flange.


By the looks of your picture your monitors have a "large" space between them (center to right/left). You might have been able to save a couple of inches if you wanted to "hide" the bezel of your out side monitors.


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## mangerda

Well I was left with doing that because I'm using two different types of monitors. The middle one is a LCD and the outer monitors are LEDs. This results in the outer ones to be alot thinner and the middle was deeper which results in my monitor in the middles sticks out little more than the outer ones.


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## dmehaffy

Im planning a build like this as well. This weekend Im going to start looking at designing my own. During that process ill probably draw up my mount in Inventor and post up all my design specs for anyone else interested. If anyone has any other tips as to hiding cabling that would be great. I also am looking at ways to be able to adjust the monitor rack up and down and also attached a mount to the bottom to hold it firmly on my glass *I know scary* desktop.

Something along the lines of this:


And my goal is stay under ~40$ and since I already have some 3/4 plywood and alot of spare hardware I dont think the actual piping should cost too much. Though the only stores close to me are Lowes, Farm King, and Menards

Any thoughts and Ideas would be great.

-Derrick


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## TLHarrell

@ Dmehaffy- I would not clamp a single point load, subject to twisting and bending forces, on the edge of a glass panel. I wouldn't recommend it for a single monitor, let alone a triple. I can guarantee that you will shatter your glass desktop with that clamp supporting monitors. And it'll be tempered safety glass, so when it goes your monitors are all going straight to the floor.

If you think of it this way, it may illustrate the point better (no, do not actually do this, just imagine it): take a big pair of pliers, grab the edge of the desk, then pull the pliers up or push down. This is the force direction that would be exerted by the monitor mount. You have a small contact area with a long lever arm (in the case of the triple monitor mount, it can be up to a 2' long lever) greatly multiplying the forces. I haven't been able to find the appropriate numbers for it online without getting into a lot of tricky math, but let's say that a bending force of 10 pounds will shatter it. A 2' long lever arm with a 2 pound weight on it would be easily able to exceed the force to shatter the glass. Doesn't take much.

There's a tradeoff here when it comes to a glass desktop. Yes, it's stylish. But it can't be counted on to support things that way. My recommendation would be to create a support structure that extends from the floor (you can have a base plate that can be screwed into the subfloor if you're on carpet), maybe grabs the desk edge to keep it in line with the desk and reduce any wobble, and fully supports the weight on the floor. If you're on hardwood, laminate or other surfaces you can't screw into, look into a base that is wider, perhaps that extends to the legs of the desk. When clamping to the glass, I'd recommend a plate on either side of the glass with a 3"x5" minimum contact area, and lined with a silicone or rubber sheet 1/16" thick.


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## dmehaffy

I was thinking the same thing. Im at work atm otherwise I would post up a picture of my desk. Not to mention the fact that I took alook around our local stores and couldn't find a decent clamp. I dont really want to spend the extra cash to run it to the floor. And a think a giant plate of steel painted black on my glass top wouldn't look that great. I do have welding skills but dont have a welder to make my own little stand.

The actual glass top is about an inch thick and the desk itself is fairly cheap not much I could attach to it. Just trying to find the best option. As for the actual layout, does anyone have any idea on lengths of the pipes I might need and also idea's on being able to raise and lower the entire set up and down on a pipe for height adjustments in the future?

I've also been thinking about running the power cords through the pipe. combining all 3 into a single plug. Any thoughts on if this would be safe? Not sure of the actual power requirements of the 3 monitors and the ability of the a single power plug.


----------



## TLHarrell

I considered the idea of running the power wiring and stuff inside the pipes. It'd be far easier to run them outside and zip tie them to the pipe. I also considered the idea of running audio cables inside the pipes for speakers. You don't want to run both in the same pipe due to causing a hum on the speakers. If you're running cables inside, you not only will need to pass the connector(s), but have room to pass the connectors with 5 other cables inside. That'd be a pretty fat pipe.


----------



## ocaptain

Awesome project, and I am in the midst of making mine happen. I'll be making an initial 3-monitor setup like yours but I'll use an 'X' in the center instead of a "T" for possible future addition of an additional three monitors above.

I'm designing this as a Trading workstation, not a gaming system 

QUESTION: In your original post, you mentioned how we can use a normal+street 45-degree elbow to create any angle we want, then once we get the angle we want, tighten with a pipe wrench. My question is, when you tighten the pipe, aren't you simultaneously changing the angle you have just set? I would think that if the pipe is loosely-threaded you can make your adjustments but if you rotate it to tighten the fitting, you are also changing the angle you have just set... how do you compensate for this?

Thanks!

-Anthony


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocaptain*
> 
> Awesome project, and I am in the midst of making mine happen. I'll be making an initial 3-monitor setup like yours but I'll use an 'X' in the center instead of a "T" for possible future addition of an additional three monitors above.
> 
> I'm designing this as a Trading workstation, not a gaming system
> 
> QUESTION: In your original post, you mentioned how we can use a normal+street 45-degree elbow to create any angle we want, then once we get the angle we want, tighten with a pipe wrench. My question is, when you tighten the pipe, aren't you simultaneously changing the angle you have just set? I would think that if the pipe is loosely-threaded you can make your adjustments but if you rotate it to tighten the fitting, you are also changing the angle you have just set... how do you compensate for this?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Anthony


Just an fyi for the none hardware savy- its "T" split and a "4-way" split.

I had that very issue as well Anthony. I ended up not going with it, but the trick is the connector piece between the two 45's. First you'd tighten down one 45 to the connector then screw that whole assembly into the other 45- but leave it loose. Then attach the 45-connector-45 to which ever arm post your working on (from the center). Add in the last arm to the Open 45- but tighten it down all the way. at this point the assembly is together but 2 parts aren't tightened down. These will be the two parts that you move to get firm fitting and any angle- though you won't have to fully tighten down the connector to the 45, the weight of the monitor will put enough stress on the joint area that it won't fling around.

As an update I'm working on a Cheaper Alternative to the steel- using pvc. Cut long enough to hold 24" monitors but short enough that it doesn't bend or warp (might strengthening the pieces by combining say a 1" and 3/4" tubes). Reasoning behind this is the recient price in steel (costs me 50 bucks for 5 pieces (3x 12, 2x 24) @ 3/4 inch + fittings + Flange where ass I got a tube of 3/4 inch pvc for 3 bucks, and like 8 for 2x 45s and 1 4-way. Though the Flange and Steel plate are still costly (flange @ 3/4 inch was 11.98 and Steel plate was 30~). The good side is for those that really like to mod and color match, pvc is a bit easier to paint.


----------



## ocaptain

Quick response!

Thanks for the info... I wondered myself if it'd be possible to do this with PVC... nesting 2 tubes with an inch or so of PVC cement at each end should make an interesting bond for strength. I wonder how well it would hold up over time, though... I look forward to seeing your result!

-Anthony


----------



## TLHarrell

PVC is far too flexible for this.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocaptain*
> 
> Quick response!
> 
> Thanks for the info... I wondered myself if it'd be possible to do this with PVC... nesting 2 tubes with an inch or so of PVC cement at each end should make an interesting bond for strength. I wonder how well it would hold up over time, though... I look forward to seeing your result!
> 
> -Anthony


After using a heat gun and combining 1" and 3/4 inch... PVC cement won't be necessary. During the "merging" process the 1" has gotten a little fatter, so a very thing layer of pvc will need to be sanded off in order to make the tubes fit the fittings. Also, if one does deside to use PVC instead of steel and do the same mergering process- Leave about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch "open" (no 2ndary pipe) the heating will still cause the tube to expand and when it cools will stay in this expanded form, but you can heat it up again and push it into the fitting and it will create a tight enough seal that glue or cement won't be necessary, and makes it a bit easier/less work to get the whole system put together.

Realisticly though, 3/4 pvc + fittings + flange and Steel Plate are all you really need to do this out of pvc. for my 24" monitors, a pieces cut at a length of about 24" (inches) @ 3/4 inch is more than strong enough to hold my 6 pound monitors. Now if I had say 3x 27" or 30" monitors I'd deff go up to the 1" pvc, but you still wouldn't need to combine. The only reasons I'm continuing my course of action is to prove it can be done, and I want to be able to break the stand down for moving.


----------



## TLHarrell

*grabs popcorn, sits down and waits to be proven wrong*


----------



## Samuraiken

I wonder how the PVC turned out. I'm about to go hit up Home Depot for all the pipe parts necessary to do this, as a very non-handyman type of guy








I'm just hoping my measurements are correct, otherwise the arms will be too long/short for my 3x 23" monitors. And, luck of luck, none of them have VESA mounts on the back, so i"ll have to counter-sink some screw holes in acrylic, and use that to make my own VESA "plate" to epoxy onto the back of the monitors.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samuraiken*
> 
> I wonder how the PVC turned out. I'm about to go hit up Home Depot for all the pipe parts necessary to do this, as a very non-handyman type of guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just hoping my measurements are correct, otherwise the arms will be too long/short for my 3x 23" monitors. And, luck of luck, none of them have VESA mounts on the back, so i"ll have to counter-sink some screw holes in acrylic, and use that to make my own VESA "plate" to epoxy onto the back of the monitors.


I haven't quite finished it yet for a couple reasons, the major being not a lot of time at home right now to work in the shop and get it done. The 2nd biggest is i'm going to start a new thread for the PVC version so that there are options

but as far as an update- I have 3/4 inch plywood blocks drilled and sanded down just need to paint and finish them and then attached them to the PVC and hang them on the monitors.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Ok time to do the mini build log- if a Mod would we might wana add a link to the OP post to this post or something:

parts list (some of what I used- some choice up to you)
1x 1 inch Pipe
1x 3/4 inch Pipe
2x 45 degree fittings
1x 4-way Fitting (or cross)
1x Threaded adapter to fit largest size pipe to connect to flange
1x 12x12 inch Steel plate (if not mounting to your desk"
12x M4 screws, 35mm length
6x Clamps to fit Largest size pipe
12x clamps to fit Clamps
12x nuts to fit bolts for clamps
1x Flange
4x bolts that will fit Flange holes
4x nuts to fit bolts
4x washers- optional but help get the nuts down tight on the flange as it has tapered holes because its made to be mounted the opposite way we will be mounting it.

Here We have 1 inch, 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch pipe


Now we need to cut the pipe to the appropriate lengths. I have 3x 24 inch monitors, so I'm going to need 2 cuts at a length of 24 inches and another 2 cuts at a length of 12 inches, and 1 cut at around 8~10 inches (I think I chose 8)


There we go, all Nice and Cut up. Now to the "Forging" part. Its not really Forging, but the same principles will apply. To Do this You will need a Heat gun and a rubber mallet. I decided to go with the 1" and 3/4 forging. You can do the 3/4 and 1/2, but you will need to take more time sanding down the 1/2" before starting the process. As for the process, what I did was set my heat gun up so that the hot air blew upwards, and while wearing gloves, took my 1" pipe and held it about 2 inches above the gun and counted to about 5 seconds (1 Mississippi etc). Then moved away from the heat, grabbed my 3/4 and wiggled into into the 1" as at this point the 1" is fairly "rubbery" at the end closest to the heat gun. Once in a little bit, I took the mallet, placed the 3/4 inch on concrete/something hard, and have the 1" end a few good taps till I noticed a pitch change (meaning the pipes were no longer moving together) flipped the assembly over and gave the 3/4 inch end a few good taps until the pitch changed again.

Take your pipe back over, holding the largest end down towards the gun let the hot air rise up again for a few seconds and repeat the last part. Few hits on one end, flip few hits on the other. This process took about 15 to 20 for the 24 inch pieces, and about 10 to 15 for the other 3. Please note DO NOT HEAT THE PIPE FOR MORE THAN A FEW SECONDS, OTHER WISE IT WILL BE TO RUBBERY TO USE THE MALLET ON.

here is the finished work:


The fittings and 3/4 inch Flange that are going to be used


Now the... annoying part as it takes more time and finesse than any of the other parts (including the block sanding), and thats sanding down the connection areas. I used small 5x5 60/100/150 grit sand paper. Started with the 60 and rubbed a little, checked to see if the fitting would attach, if not I'd go back to sanding more. I did this till the fitting would just bearly slide over the pipe. Then I moved over to the 100 grit, and did this for a while till I could get the fitting most of the way on, once I could I moved over to the 150 and repeated again till I could get the fitting all the way on. Now at first this is a big deal so what just takes time, but one needs to be careful and not remove to much of the pipe and allow the fitting to be too loose, we need the friction created by the twisting motion to lock or pieces in place*.
Take a look:



The next step is going to be gluing Key pieces together. Our 2x 12 inch pieces to our 4-way fitting, the 2x 45's to our 24" inch pieces, and our 1 inch to 3/4 inch threaded adapter to our Riser. By doing it this way we create the option for the mount to be broken down in case of breaks or monitor changes.

Now lets get our mounting stuff taken care of. First we will need to clean the steel plate as it looks like this:


all nice and clean



To do this I used a standard screw gun, and a metal brush as seen here:


Took a few mintues to do both sides, and both sides must be done.

Next up is to drill the holes, I needed to use a 1/4 inch drill bit for my bolts:




This was done on a drill press for 2 reasons, good strait holes with out worry and constant pressure = good clean holes.

but there was a problem:


If you can't tell in the picture, my bolt doesn't sit flush on against the plate, so lets rectify that!


I used a counter sink drill bit, and slowly drilled out the hole till my bolt just sat flush, I did this 3 more times, taking no more than about 30 minutes from start to finish with a nice end result:



With the holes drilled and counter sunk, lets get that flange attached:


I wasn't quite sure how how long a bolt I needed, so as you can see they stick out a bit far, lets rectify that:



using a Dremel with aluminum reinforced cutting discs I cut the bolts off just above the nut. this did leave little blemishes on the nuts, so I got out some of the polishing tools and polished things up.

For the next step I used 3/4 ply wood (I had LOTS of spare 3/4 plywood lying around from another DIY project I'm working on). I cut them to 5x5 inches, and used a guide for the 100mm vesa mounts my monitors have (I think 100mm is standard on monitors haven't really come across larger or smaller). Once they were drilled I went ahead and sanded them down as well.




Lets see how it looks against our pipe:


oh no, looks like we need a new center pieces. I went with 6.5 x 6.5 inches on the new center pieces to get it just the way I wanted. However, I know i'm going to have to do some fixing to it for cable connections- so check yours monitors as well for any cabling issues.

with a new center block ready, lets get the clamps mounted on them first before we paint and sand (again).



looks good, everything lined up nice and strait. To do this, I positioned my clamps first, used a C clamp to hold the metal clamp and wood in place, drilled the holes, attached 2 bolts, then removed the C clamp. I attached the bolts very firmly at that, so when I removed the C-clamp the pipe wouldn't be able to wiggle while I did the others.

now lets get these painted:



Now the paint:


This is a Quick Drying lacquer paint that works on woods, most metals and most plastics, which leaves us here for now (9/28/13):


*Note: If you do go to far, just run down and get 2x of a male and female screw fittings. You want 2 to make it look symmetrical- as of this post I have a feeling I will need to do this, will update if I do.

Another option is to get a nut n bolt for each end of the loose fitting, drill a hole through the fitting and bolt it up.


----------



## john6969

2013-11-08 21.11.06.jpg 539k .jpg file
Maybe someone can help me out I started this project today. I am using 2 1/2 by 10 for the front monitor with 2 45 degree elbow on each end and 18 inch 1/2 on each end. I have 23 inch asus monitors.

I can't get these monitors to line up exactly they are off by 1/4 inch. What trick did you guys do to get this lined up.

Dummie me thought once everything was level and measured the monitors would slide in perfect.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john6969*
> 
> 2013-11-08 21.11.06.jpg 539k .jpg file
> Maybe someone can help me out I started this project today. I am using 2 1/2 by 10 for the front monitor with 2 45 degree elbow on each end and 18 inch 1/2 on each end. I have 23 inch asus monitors.
> 
> I can't get these monitors to line up exactly they are off by 1/4 inch. What trick did you guys do to get this lined up.
> 
> Dummie me thought once everything was level and measured the monitors would slide in perfect.


In reverse- Nope, but good job getting it leveled out, thats the hardest part.

I didn't see how you mounted your side monitors, but you should be able to just push them closer to the center monitor by loosening the clamp screws. If you chose not to do this because the side monitor wouldn't slide behind the center one (hiding the bezel of the side monitors) then you have a couple options. Use a few washers on the center monitor to "push" it out farther, increase the depth of the wood you used (if you used 3/4 inch MDF board, get a 1/4 inch ply wood and glue them together) on the center monitor then reduce the depth of the wood used for the side monitors (3/4 MDF board to 1/2 inch if you can). I used a combination of washers on the center monitor with a little reduction in the wood used for the side monitors (I sanded mine down a whole lot).


----------



## john6969

that is what I am going to do tonight a piece of 1x4 in between..


----------



## john6969

OK I give up going to take this apart and return what I can. I couldn't give the bezels to match up evenly. Not sure what to do at this point I really want to be around 40% degree angle and even bezels

any suggestions


----------



## john6969

If I had a long piece of Metal and my monitors were 21.5 inches long were would I bend at a 40 degree angle it so everything is even.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john6969*
> 
> If I had a long piece of Metal and my monitors were 21.5 inches long were would I bend at a 40 degree angle it so everything is even.


I get what your saying, but before you go crazy and start returning things, take pictures of your whole setup. First with out Monitors, then with center, then with left or right (you'll need to put something on the opposite side to counter balance if you used the steel plate method, other wise ignore this part). For the monitor section do it from both front and back (if you can). Then take them into paint and do like a red circle or square highlighting the issue.

I want to help you work through this, but I'm a visual person, need to see what i'm working with before I'll get it 100% and be able to give you an accurate solution(s).
Feel Free to Hit me up on Skype: Th3b3n or PM if you don't wana do the whole build log solution thing in the thread.


----------



## bluc

Hey first post signed up to say awesome idea on using the pipe. Have been playing round with 8020 extrusions in sketch up last few weeks, but think I will use pipe instead cheaper and no metal work needed. Although I may use three of these for easier rotation to portrait modehttp://m.ebay.com/itm/121099728577?nav=WATCHING&sbk=1. I am getting 3 120hz 27 inch Asus screens first up in January will post back my results. Once again great work.


----------



## bluc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *th3m3nt4l*
> 
> Just an fyi for the none hardware savy- its "T" split and a "4-way" split.
> 
> I had that very issue as well Anthony. I ended up not going with it, but the trick is the connector piece between the two 45's. First you'd tighten down one 45 to the connector then screw that whole assembly into the other 45- but leave it loose. Then attach the 45-connector-45 to which ever arm post your working on (from the center). Add in the last arm to the Open 45- but tighten it down all the way. at this point the assembly is together but 2 parts aren't tightened down. These will be the two parts that you move to get firm fitting and any angle- though you won't have to fully tighten down the connector to the 45, the weight of the monitor will put enough stress on the joint area that it won't fling around..


This still confuses me and still trying to get my head around it. Any chance of a short series of photos to better illustrate how this is done? I also learn by seeing things done.







You say "..the trick is the connector piece between the 45's..." I thought the 45's screw into each other directly .


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluc*
> 
> This still confuses me and still trying to get my head around it. Any chance of a short series of photos to better illustrate how this is done? I also learn by seeing things done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You say "..the trick is the connector piece between the 45's..." I thought the 45's screw into each other directly .


Unfortunately I don't have photos of that setup because I no longer live in the country where I made it, and didn't feel like paying for the added weight on my luggage.

The op used a "street 45", its a 45 with a threaded (male) end, I used two regular 45's (both ends are female-ie get screwed into) in conjunction with an "all thread" pipe fitting.

All Thread:


Regular (female/female) 45 Elbow:


"Street 45" (Female/Male) 45 Elbow:


As long as you match the pipe size to the fitting, yes the elbows could screw into each other as you though. However, Street 45's weren't available for w/e reasons in the other country so I did what I had too in order to get the setup going. Though I do feel that My setup would be easier to wrestle with than the OP's, while still leaving a sense of good strength.


----------



## bluc

Thanks for the reply. I understand how the fittings go together just dont know how you get the angle you want and also have the join tight. I would think the elbow is only tight in one posistion and you have to be lucky that that posistion also coincides with the angle you want







or do you use locknuts on the "allthread" joiner to lock to the elbow?


----------



## TLHarrell

No, just pipe wrenches and turn them really hard until they're facing the way you want. Locknuts won't work as pipe threads are actually tapered.


----------



## bluc

ok never realised pipe fitting threds were tappered. cheers. Wonder if there is any other sorts of pipe avaialable. Using the same idea but with nikel plated and polished pipe would look awesome







Also did anybody find a desk mount clamp? Dont want to drill holes through my bench if I can avoid it. But would rather have it clamped or bolted straight to desk rather than on a stand.


----------



## TLHarrell

You'd have to fabricate a clamping device, but it could be done. I'd prefer to mount it to the floor with a heavy base, and have a clamp that grabs the back edge of the desk.

There are other types of pipe, but not necessarily nickel plated. You could probably design something out of copper water pipe and have that plated with nickel. Of course, your cost would start to creep up closer to the ready made solutions with finishes like that.


----------



## bluc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> You'd have to fabricate a clamping device, but it could be done. I'd prefer to mount it to the floor with a heavy base, and have a clamp that grabs the back edge of the desk.
> 
> There are other types of pipe, but not necessarily nickel plated. You could probably design something out of copper water pipe and have that plated with nickel. Of course, your cost would start to creep up closer to the ready made solutions with finishes like that.


Very true it would drive cost up may look at something shiny for the upright that goes between desk and monitor. After all is about only thing you'll see. And paint rest black.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluc*
> 
> Very true it would drive cost up may look at something shiny for the upright that goes between desk and monitor. After all is about only thing you'll see. And paint rest black.


Just get galvanized steel pipe, its a dirty silver to start, but you can brush it nice to shine up.


----------



## bluc

One other question wouldnt it be better to use 90 dgree fitting rather than 45 to get more consistant angle?Wouldnt rotating to 45's change vertical height difference between side monitors and center monitor, as well as changing horizontal angle ?


----------



## TLHarrell

Yeah, I'd figure two 90's would be better for keeping the monitors in the same plane vertically. But I think the idea here is that you can twist the 45's to gain a little vertical adjustment.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> Yeah, I'd figure two 90's would be better for keeping the monitors in the same plane vertically. But I think the idea here is that you can twist the 45's to gain a little vertical adjustment.


That is correct as far as the op is concerned. By twisting both sets of 45 any angle is possible, just a pain in the ass to set up. Btw you can use the schedule 40 pic pipe idea I posted a few pages back and get a paint that also seals. I'm having to do this for my current metal try stand as all my pipe clamps are for inch n I used 3/4 to save some bucks. I'll post pics tomorrow before I paint n after


----------



## bluc

I thought that may be the case gaining additional adjustment by using 45's. I decided against the rotating vesa mount as it upped the price to much so instead I bought 3 of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/360727423843?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 idea is to mount back plate to stand then plumb it with a spirit level then simply slot the monitor into place.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

OK,here is what I did: got the pic cut to length, then put it in a vice. Took my dremel and went the length of the pipe. Did this twice so as to cut a small nock out of each piece.

Pictures aren't uploading atmosphere will try again in a few

Edit: 11/26/2013 - Pictures\\


----------



## bluc

How did you go with the plastic version? interested to see how it turned out. Also the bracket you attach the mount to the pipe with are they car exahust pipe clamps or if something else what are they called cheers.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluc*
> 
> How did you go with the plastic version? interested to see how it turned out. Also the bracket you attach the mount to the pipe with are they car exahust pipe clamps or if something else what are they called cheers.


I'll answer your clamp question first, what we use is a Pipe Clamp. They come in many shapes and sizes for various applications. The type I ended up using is more of a Wall Pipe clamp and looks like this:



The Plastic Version came out great, and supports up to 24" monitors no problem/worries. There's a guy on youtube that did a few tutorials on how to reinforce a PVC recursive bow by heating a larger pvc pipe up with a heat gun, and then using a rubber mallet and pounding in a smaller pipe. I used the concept behind this to make each piece of pipe section- you can read the rest in my post like a page back or so now. The only thing that you will have to worry about, if going the PVC route, is over torquing the threaded fitting that screws in to the flange and having 1 of 2 things happen: ither because of friction and force the threaded fitting will shear off or if you glued the threaded fitting down, it will break the pipe just above were the fitting attached.


----------



## dierpianfa

that right, Side to side is then balanced due to good ol' symmetry. thank you


----------



## bluc

Made a start on mine today just waiting for my flanges and pipe clamps to turn up, will be about another 4 weeks till I get my monitors . It has cost me about $130 so far thats including the vesa mounts. Now just need to make the adapter that goes between pipe and vesa mount.
 I went with inch pipe for the chunkier look and double upright this is not going anywere once bolted to the desk







Only a phone camera photo will get some better pics as I get a bit more done. I used a pipe in middle then a 3 way tee either end then two 90 degree street (male to female) elbows screwed into the tee each end of the middle pipe. I intend to slot the holes in the adapter plate that goes between the pipe and vesa mount that will give me my vertical adjustment. cheers
Edit
th3m3nt4l wondering with the pipe clamp saddle in the picture how did you get tension on the pipe? Did you put rubber between pipe and clamp? Aren't those clamps made to hold a pipe against a wall? Also what sort of bolts did you use? I was thinking maybe use these style http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110763653293?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Clamps do away with the bent U pice and use the other piece along with straight bolts.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluc*
> 
> th3m3nt4l wondering with the pipe clamp saddle in the picture how did you get tension on the pipe? Did you put rubber between pipe and clamp? Aren't those clamps made to hold a pipe against a wall? Also what sort of bolts did you use? I was thinking maybe use these style http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110763653293?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> Clamps do away with the bent U pice and use the other piece along with straight bolts.


They are made to hold pipe against a wall, but thats the point. The block of wood the OP and I cut up to act as our vesa mounts acts as though it is a wall for the clamps. There was no need to use rubber the pipe is hidden and is just slightly small enough so that when bolted down a very tight "clamp" is created. If one loosens the nut for the clamps just a little bit, and with some elbow grease, one can still slide the side monitors up and down the pipe no problem. The center one won't really move because of the location of the clamps. As for the bolts used... for the pipe clamps just some 1/4 bolts work perfect, about an inch long (3/4 MDF board) for the vesa mount screw holes in the monitor- my old 24" monitors used M4 screws about 35/40mm long, the new 32's use M6 and I decided on 45mm long (which is still just a little short so a good tight connection).


----------



## bluc

Ok thanks







also anyone with an android device there is an app called "clinometer" turns ya phone into a digital spirit level and incline meter very handy to get the angles on this stand. Note I am not affiliated with the app just made setting up the angles heaps easier









EDIT: had another idea to not sure if it would work but rather than paint the stand, I was thinking maybe I could get the heatshrink with the adhesive then shrink that onto the pipe. Heatshrink comes in just about any colour you can think of and may also provide better grip for the pipe clamps. Just not sure if the heatshrink would twist on the pipe under the weight of the monitor, would have to be sure the pipe was well cleaned before applying the heatshrink.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluc*
> 
> Ok thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also anyone with an android device there is an app called "clinometer" turns ya phone into a digital spirit level and incline meter very handy to get the angles on this stand. Note I am not affiliated with the app just made setting up the angles heaps easier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: had another idea to not sure if it would work but rather than paint the stand, I was thinking maybe I could get the heatshrink with the adhesive then shrink that onto the pipe. Heatshrink comes in just about any colour you can think of and may also provide better grip for the pipe clamps. Just not sure if the heatshrink would twist on the pipe under the weight of the monitor, would have to be sure the pipe was well cleaned before applying the heatshrink.


Sounds like a good idea (heat shrink thing) only concern is shrink large enough. Its mostly used for electrical work, specifically for shielding exposed wire where say... lights are connected or where once twisted two diff pieces of wire together (a repair job or an extension job type deal)


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## bluc

Size not the problem I have some heatshrink for 120mm pipe. Just not sure if it will shrink onto pipe tight enough to stop twisting.

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## th3m3nt4l

Ah, um hard to say, if it's not too expensive for you I'd say try it out on the base riser. Chances are though, if you use a pipe wrench on it, it's gonna get marred and twist


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## bluc

Yea very true

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## bluc

Got my ply cut drilled and sanded still waiting for my ubolts to show up. On the side screen adapter plates I elongated the holes to allow some vertical adjust. I plan to use the washers that have the burr built in to help stop them sliding once in place. WIll give them a coat of paint when I am happy that they are right. They are a bit rough but good enough as they wont be seen anyway.


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluc*
> 
> Got my ply cut drilled and sanded still waiting for my ubolts to show up. On the side screen adapter plates I elongated the holes to allow some vertical adjust. I plan to use the washers that have the burr built in to help stop them sliding once in place. WIll give them a coat of paint when I am happy that they are right. They are a bit rough but good enough as they wont be seen anyway.


are you doing a PLP settup? and just from looking at where you drilled your holes at, seems a little to close to the edge.


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## bluc

What is a "plp setup"? the holes in top for the u bolts are .59 inch ~15mm from top and its 3/4inch ply not particled board/mdf I dont think it will pull through.
EDIT: ok plp "portrait landscape portrait " no doing tripple landscape. Reason the two side mounts are so long is, because I am using inch pipe the fittings are bigger also I am using two 90degree elbows instead of 45 so they are taller approx 110mm also I made my upright posts a bit long so I dropped the middle monitor down 50mm which meant I had to drop the side ones the 110mm for the elbows plus 50mm to allow for lowering the middle monitor. cheers


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## bluc

Couple more pics





Going to post pics in couple of weeks once my monitors arrive and its in place. Cheers and merry christmas.


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## machinehead

I just upgraded to from 24 inch to 27 inch monitor and will be making a one of these custom mounts soon. I only have 2 monitors but I will build one that is easily upgradeable to 3 monitors incase I get drunk and order a another one lol. the monoprice monitor I got is very slim and only 15 pounds! I just got a new Ikea desk I have to throw together so plenty of room to work with


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## oc2u

How about using 2 bases, 1 at each end. Then it would be extremely stable. I like that flat plate you used. That way it really doesn't interfere with desk stuff at all. Very smart.


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## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oc2u*
> 
> How about using 2 bases, 1 at each end. Then it would be extremely stable. I like that flat plate you used. That way it really doesn't interfere with desk stuff at all. Very smart.


Think I posted a while back about going from 24" to 32" (love the change so much space for programing/3d work / etc) and found that just to be on the safe side (pvc mounting settup) I changed to a 3 "base" stand. But the side legs are so long they sit at the edge of my desk (home built corner desk) and don't interfere with anything. Thats if your building this like the OP.

As to the 2 base thing, its not as stable as you'd think, plus if one wants to expand on it its a bit tougher than with what the OP has.


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## AzNightmare

Sorry for thread bump, I know this is an old thread, but still a very relevant guide.

Over the holidays, I tried to tackle this project.

My biggest challenge is the side monitors. How did you guys prevent the side monitors from rotating downward? Using the 2 pipe clamps (I tried using 3 actually just because I had spare ones), I torqued those screws tight, but the monitor still tilted downward due to center of gravity. I even tried cutting strips of rubber band to slip in there to increase friction, but it wasn't good enough. I would say the monitors weigh approx 10~ lbs.

At this point, I'm pretty sure torquing the screws more isn't the solution. I'm already using washers and when I unscrewed the clamps out, I noticed the washers dug into wood backplate, so any more tightening will just cause the washer and screw to dig into the backplate deeper.

I'm specifically using this kind of clamp:


Any advice??


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## bluc

I used these clamps http://www.abagroup.com/kunden/norma/ttw.nsf/res/Pipe_Clamp_(300).jpg/$file/Pipe_Clamp_(300)_std.jpg they bite in good have been using mine 12 months and they have not moved I had to get longer "u" bolts so I had room to mount the plate on mine two clamps per monitor. cheers.


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## maginnist

Just built this dual vertical 21.5" monitor stand out of 1.25" galvanized steel pipe after reading. Took about 30 minutes to assemble. Awesome thread.

The base is a piece of discounted, warped wood @ 31.5 inch.

Used a 1.25" floor flange connected to a 12"x1.25" galvanized steel pipe, coupled to a 4"x1.25", fitted a 1.25" T splitter, connected to 2x 12"x1.25" pipes, capped with 1.25" caps. Monitors are secured to 8"x8" blocks of wood, connected with M4 screws and clamped with C-type clamps (pretty weak metal, so drilled them in @ a 45 degree angle.

The flange is mounted near the rear of the board, in the absolute middle of the plank.


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## doraliu1008

awesome stand!!


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## Realmzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> All of my parts were from the local plumbing supply warehouse and Lowe's. All of the parts can be found at either place, its just a matter of convenience/price. They're 23" monitors, but 24" should be fine. The PDF is up, and the holes for the VESA screws are slightly larger than 4mm to accommodate the M4 screws used. The rest is put together with wood screws.
> If you see the 8th picture in the original post, what I did was assemble the arms and made them level with the ground. Then, with the monitors sitting on their stock stands, I held it up, and screwed all 3 monitors to it. Since they were all on their identical stock stands, it ensured that they'd be level when I removed the stands and put the vertical upright in place.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eovnu87435ds*
> 
> I am taking your idea to the next level. 1" pipe for the upright, which is standing on the ground... 36" high is my guess. Then using 1/2" pipe for the "arms" for the 3 total monitors. All 28" monitors. I'll let you know how it goes. I love the 2 45's plugged into each other to free up any angle you need. Awesome.
> 
> I'll post pics once I get it done.


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