# [Official] Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5/UD7 Owners Thread/Club



## ChrisB17

Check out the UD7 its more sexy


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## el gappo

Why all of a sudden is everyone saying "plethora"? It's my word get off it


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## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Check out the UD7 its more sexy

Psssh...

They are all sexy.


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## ChrisB17

yea check out the rack on those boards. OMG.


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## mike44njdevils

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SimpleTech* 
Psssh...

They are all sexy.

True. The UD7 doesn't lay out as well for me (I have a PCIe x1 wireless card, and don't want to deal with it using a x8 or x16 lane and stealing bandwidth.

But, I do agree, the UD7 is rather easy on the eyes


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## mike44njdevils

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
yea check out the rack on those boards. OMG.

LOL, yes yes they would look good covered in water now wouldn't they


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## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mike44njdevils* 
LOL, yes yes they would look good covered in water now wouldn't they









I would think some LN2 to make that silicon even "nippier".

Though I prefer _natural_...


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## raisethe3

Wow, that UD7 is overkill. But still nice though. Especially that water-cooling block option.


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## Squirrel

I agree, very sexy. Especially that floppy drive connector makes it really stand out from the rest of the 890FX boards!!


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## ChrisB17

Well here it is. Great price to.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-441-_-Product


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## mike44njdevils

Yeah, noticed that today at work and had to fight with all my strength not to open Newegg @ my terminal...I'm anxiously awaiting the release (on newegg) of the 870A-UD3 as well


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## tipsycoma

Wow, Gigabyte makes such nice AM3 boards. Why do their X58 ones have to be garbage?


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## de Cossatot

Ha, just ordered one of these and a 1090T. Gonna be in next week and covered in water


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## Rittzy

When are these being released? Cant find any of the UD5 one in the uk


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## zenkis15

Can wait to get some reviews..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-441-_-Product


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## zenkis15

I just have to wait for the UD7


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## Squirrel

been there for a couple days I think. The UD5 doesn't seem like anything special, the UD7 seems pretty impressive though (on paper).


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## Brian_

whats difference between ud5 and 7


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## zenkis15

I'm trying to figure that out


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## raisethe3

Was wondering the same.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Brian_* 
whats difference between ud5 and 7


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Squirrel* 
been there for a couple days I think. The UD5 doesn't seem like anything special, the UD7 seems pretty impressive though (on paper).

No, newegg posted it yesterday.

UD7 adds an extra PCI slot: Comparison Sheet http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/Products...ctID=3425,3423

Everything else is the same! The added PCI slot makes UD7 a long board.. XL-ATX... so keep that in mind if buying.

As for not being "anything special" spec for spec its the same as ASUS Crosshair IV Formula 890FX.. now if you're talking about looks or manufacturer board software.. That's another story, but since there aren't any reviews on it yet why not wait and see how it performs?

If GA-790FXTA-UD5 is anything to go by its going to be a great board.


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## Squirrel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
No, newegg posted it yesterday.

Today+yesterday=couple of days


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## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rittzy* 
When are these being released? Cant find any of the UD5 one in the uk









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128441


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Squirrel* 
Today+yesterday=couple of days


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## ChrisB17

I posted this like 3 days ago.


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## ToxicAdam

So who's up for making a Official thread? Bought one today!


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## mike44njdevils

OH MY that's beautiful. My only concern (and this is in my case only) is that top PCIe x1 slot. Unless you're using something tiny, it's wasted space. I have a PCIe wireless card...looks like that heatsink would be in the way.

Also, the UD7 has a different NB heatsink (I've heard is has WC provisions?).

I'm holding out for the 870A-UD3. I'm running only one GPU + physx.


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## decimator

The UD5 looks to be the best mobo at its price point right now. Has the same feature set as the Crosshair IV Formula for $50 less on Newegg.


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## Dopamin3

I see Gigabyte still has no idea how to make a decent layout for a high-end board...


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## decimator

He's in the UK. Newegg having it in stock does him no good







.


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## Squirrel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


The UD5 looks to be the best mobo at its price point right now. Has the same feature set as the Crosshair IV Formula for $50 less on Newegg.


I find it hard to believe that the CH4 has the same overclocking features as the UD5...

Edit: I don't think the top pcie x1 slot is being blocked by the heatsink. I think in the original layout it was (http://www.techpowerup.com/img/10-03-05/45a.jpg) but now it seems (according to the picture on newegg) that the heatsink is kinda split in the middle and one half reduced in height.


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## SimpleTech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tipsycoma*


Wow, Gigabyte makes such nice AM3 boards. *Why do their X58 ones have to be garbage?*


Huh?

Gigabyte has been making some of the nicest, overclocking friendly boards since I can remember. It wasn't until P45 that they really excelled above the rest.


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## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Squirrel*


I find it hard to believe that the CH4 has the same overclocking features as the UD5...


Meh, I don't really think the soundcard and the gimmicks like Turbo Key II, GameFirst, and ROG Connect are worth an extra $50. I just want a mobo that can overclock well. The one thing that the C4F has going for it is the core unlocker, though. I plan on getting a 1090T anyway, so that doesn't really concern me. To be honest, I'm not sure if the core unlocker by itself is worth an extra $50. You might as well put that money toward a hexa-core CPU. I just think the 890FXA-UD5 has the better price to performance ratio and I hate Asus' tech support.


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *de Cossatot*


Ha, just ordered one of these and a 1090T. Gonna be in next week and covered in water










Post pics


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## Rittzy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
He's in the UK. Newegg having it in stock does him no good







.

I know!! Grr, newegg seems to be the place to buy everything, must be good. still nice to have a link to look at lol


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## smash_mouth01

I had a look on NewEgg (even though I live in Australia) you lucky buggers have the UD5 listed but no UD7.
But here in Aus we have the UD7 listed but no UD5.


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## xxbassplayerxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tipsycoma*


Wow, Gigabyte makes such nice AM3 boards. Why do their X58 ones have to be garbage?


Have you ever owned one? All the stuff in my signature was done on a GA-EX58-UD4P. It's a fantastic board. I'll probably be buying the GA-X58A-UD9 when it releases.


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mike44njdevils*


OH MY that's beautiful.


I have to make the color scheme work for my case.. Its a challenge I'm looking forward to.

The robin's egg blue is growing on me


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## ToxicAdam

Dual Bios is what won me over.. I don't want to go through a fail bios flash ever again!

I read how this has save many boards for people here. And with bulldozer coming out soon.. I would have to update 890FX bios. I would be soo afraid to update on other boards after what happen to me last week.


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## raisethe3

As long as you know what you're doing. It shouldn't be a problem. Its always advise that you do not update bios in the OS. Are you currently using the MSI board in your sig? If so, you should use the MSI-HQ Flash Tool in the AMD Bios section. Should be easy as a cake when flashing with that utility.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Dual Bios is what won me over.. I don't want to go through a fail bios flash ever again!

I read how this has save many boards for people here. And with bulldozer coming out soon.. I would have to update 890FX bios. I would be soo afraid to update on other boards after what happen to me last week.


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## zenkis15

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Meh, I don't really think the soundcard and the gimmicks like Turbo Key II, GameFirst, and ROG Connect are worth an extra $50. I just want a mobo that can overclock well. The one thing that the C4F has going for it is the core unlocker, though. I plan on getting a 1090T anyway, so that doesn't really concern me. To be honest, I'm not sure if the core unlocker by itself is worth an extra $50. You might as well put that money toward a hexa-core CPU. I just think the 890FXA-UD5 has the better price to performance ratio and I hate Asus' tech support.



According to the UD5 specs it has core unlock aswell.

Also, I was wondering if the double Ethernet its a big plus or its all BS?


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## runnin17

haha, this is pretty expensive for a non-enthusiast AMD board. Just my .02


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## Nightingale

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
No, newegg posted it yesterday.

If GA-790FXTA-UD5 is anything to go by its going to be a great board.

If you had said GA-790FXT(minus the A) -UD4-UD5 I would have agreed

FXTA was a very well made MOBO which was released to market and then ignored by Gigabyte.


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *runnin17* 
haha, this is pretty expensive for a non-enthusiast AMD board. Just my .02

"non-enthusiast"

what does that even mean?


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## turk-fx

He tried to mean That it is not top notch enthusiast board. But spec base, there is not much different over other 890FX boards.


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turk-fx*


He tried to mean That it is not top notch enthusiast board. *But spec base, there is not much different over other 890FX boards.*


Yeah, this what confused me.. all the first gen 890FX boards are basically the same. Manufacturers might add some nice wording here and there but if you read the specs there's no difference.. other than the different heatsinks they use on N&S bridges


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## turk-fx

Actually with this review, i am so disappointed

MSI 890FX crashes gigabyte`s 890FX UD7 almost at every test.


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turk-fx*


Actually with this review, i am so disappointed

MSI 890FX crashes gigabyte`s 890FX UD7 almost at every test.


I'd say more like even, some of the benchmarks were less than 100 points.. while others were the same.

Come on, man!


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## Nightingale

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turk-fx*


MSI 890FX crashes gigabyte`s 890FX UD7 almost at every test.


Might you be exaggerating just a bit?


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## Nightingale

double post


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## turk-fx

Yea some of them so close, but 3-4 test 400-500 points behind.


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nightingale* 
Might you be exaggerating just a bit?

My guess is he was being sarcastic


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raisethe3* 
As long as you know what you're doing. It shouldn't be a problem. Its always advise that you do not update bios in the OS. Are you currently using the MSI board in your sig? If so, you should use the MSI-HQ Flash Tool in the AMD Bios section. Should be easy as a cake when flashing with that utility.

The board in my sig is bricked from a successful bios flash.. as the bios told me before asking me to reboot.

Bios updating is easy and been updating motherboards with no problem.. but this one time got me to rethink my position.


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## ToxicAdam

Check out this 3.0 USB thumb drive performance

http://www.pcper.com/article.php?aid=914&type=expert

dang, its fast









Can't wait to try this stuff out on this motherboard.


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## mrfajita

Wow, before I got my DFI, I was considering buying a Gigabyte motherboard, I liked how they look. Now comparing it to my LT X48-T2R, that blue and white is so


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## SimpleTech

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrfajita* 
Now comparing it to my LT X48-T2R, that blue and white is so









Just like a chick with an amazing body but fugly face, place a paper bag over it.


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## ToxicAdam

lol, close the case and you wont even notice her


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## greyno3

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128441
>
>


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## Chrono Detector

That UD5 looks almost identical to the GA-790FXTA-UD5, and I can see they made some minor changes from the first revision. They got rid of the onboard LED and changed the northbridge heatsink which isn't very impressive at all.

If you don't know what I'm talking about, I will show you a picture of the first revision which looked better:


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## ToxicAdam

Here are some nice UD7 pics I found:

"In a side by side review of the UD5 and UD7 owners manuals downloaded from Gigabyte, the only difference was the UD7 manual had added sections in chapter 1 for the North Bridge cooler installation and Installing the SATA [rear I/O] Bracket and an additional Appendix section for the POST Error Code hex chart."


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## ToxicAdam

*First run Phenom II X6-1090T with GIGABYTE 890FXA-UD7*

Source: http://forums.vr-zone.com/overclocke...90fxa-ud7.html

Prosessor AMD Phenom II X6 1090T
Motherboard GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD7 Rev.2.0 F1 BIOS
Graphic Card GIGABYTE GV-R587SO-1GD
Memory G.Skill PerfectStorm F3-17600CL8D-4GBPS
Intel SSD 80 GB
PSU Antec TPQ 1200W OC Edition
Kingpin F1EE





















Max Clock : CPU-Z Validator 3.1



Quote:

* dunno why it's rejected by CPU-Z 1.54

Too bad the chip can't go higher, but i can say the GIGABYTE 890FXA-UD7 quite strong.. memory also can go higher, hope next test can break DDR3-2000

Minor problem i had is vcore detection confused, i.e set in BIOS 1.7v, PC Health will read it 1.9v, but CPU-Z says 1.7v, i think this issue can be fix in the next BIOS.


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## turk-fx

3D mark score sucks. I get 35000 CPU score with my intel 6core at 3.7ghz. And x6 cant pass it at 6ghz?


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## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Here are some nice UD7 pics I found:

"In a side by side review of the UD5 and UD7 owners manuals downloaded from Gigabyte, the only difference was the UD7 manual had added sections in chapter 1 for the North Bridge cooler installation and Installing the SATA [rear I/O] Bracket and an additional Appendix section for the POST Error Code hex chart."


LOL, You quoted my NewEgg review... I made a similar statement on Tom's:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/27...90fxa#t1893620

But yes, the manuals are almost verbatim copies of each-other.

My GA-890FXA-UD5 is in a box and on its way via UPS... last check had it in Philadelphia PA @ 11am this morning!!!


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## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Well here it is. Great price to.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-441-_-Product


Quote:


Originally Posted by *greyno3* 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128441
>
>

yup


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
LOL, You quoted my NewEgg review... I made a similar statement on Tom's:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/27...90fxa#t1893620

But yes, the manuals are almost verbatim copies of each-other.

My GA-890FXA-UD5 is in a box and on its way via UPS... last check had it in Philadelphia PA @ 11am this morning!!!

Good newegg review









Mine should be here Thursday!


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## zenkis15

UD7 is out!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128442


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## turk-fx

Quote:

2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x16 (PCIEX16_1, PCIEX16_2) (Note 1)
2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x8 (PCIEX8_1, PCIEX8_2) (Note 1)
2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x4 (PCIEX4_1, PCIEX4_2) (Note 2)

(Note 1) The PCIEX8_1 slot shares bandwidth with the PCIEX16_1 slot and the PCIEX8_2 slot with PCIEX16_2. The PCIEX16_1/PCIEX16_2 slot will operate at up to x8 mode when the PCIEX8_1/ PCIEX8_2 is populated.

(Note 2) The default bandwidth for the PCIEX4_2 slot is x1. When it is configured to x4 mode, the onboard GSATA2_6, GSATA2_7, and IDE connectors will become unavailable because they share bandwidth with the PCIEX4_2 slot. (Refer to Chapter 2, "Integrated Peripherals" in manual for how to change the operating bandwidth for the PCIEX4_2 slot.)
What kind of bull**** is this? they are basically have 6sata connection when you use 4 way xfire or tri-fire and physx. or use some other PCI-e devices.
has only 2x usb 3.0. i dont think it deserves $250 over other boards.


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *zenkis15* 
UD7 is out!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128442

eewww, glad I didn't waited... too rich for my blood. 890FX UD5 is enough for me. I would never use more than 2 cards in crossfire.


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## ToxicAdam

I ordered the UD5 and a tube of TUNIQ TX-2. Guess which one came early?


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## raisethe3

The tube? I am guessing you didn't buy them together at newegg?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I ordered the UD5 and a tube of TUNIQ TX-2. Guess which one came early?


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## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raisethe3* 
The tube?

Yes Sir, you are correct!

Quote:

I am guessing you didn't buy them together at newegg?
Not at the same time..A hour or so after ordering the motherboard.


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## raisethe3

Well, it makes sense, because the tube is obviously lightweight, lol.

But don't worry, your board will come. I hope you will enjoy it. I am still on the fence trying to see what other 890 boards are being offered. I just want to make the most of my upgrade.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Yes Sir, you are correct!

Not at the same time..A hour or so after ordering the motherboard.


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## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Brian_* 
whats difference between ud5 and 7

As I said in my NewEgg review:

In a side by side review of the UD5 and UD7 owners manuals downloaded from Gigabyte, the only difference was the UD7 manual had added sections in chapter 1 for the North Bridge cooler installation and Installing the SATA [rear I/O] Bracket and an additional Appendix section for the POST Error Code hex chart.
Otherwise the manuals are identical aside from some discrepancies in line spacing, indentation and of course page numbers due to the aforementioned additions.

Also, the UD5 does not have the Error Code display next to the SATA bank. The picture posted by ToxicAdam is of the engineering demo and has been in circulation since the beginning of march. If you look at the pics on NewEgg you will find that this display is absent and the north bridge heat sink has been modified so that it no longer blocks the top PCIe x1 slot.

My UD5 is on my front porch having been left by UPS so, I am now going to tell my boss I'm leaving early so I can go play!!!

-stay tuned


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## ToxicAdam

Finally, someone has this! report back with pics of unboxing and installation


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## zenkis15

Great Let us know!!


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## fidof650

It has arrived!!! The long awaited GA-890FXA-UD5!!!

It arrived from NewEgg.com a day early but looking as though it had been kicked all the way from California!!! Fortunatly, a quick call to NewEgg customer care earned me a $50.00 charge back to me credit card. NewEgg ROCKS!!!

A little unboxing porn...


































































































I'm working on the install now and will post more pix later. It might take some time because I'm actually swapping out 3 mobos and upgrading 3 rigs with the hand me down method. Stay tuned.


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## zenkis15

Nice!!!


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## ToxicAdam

Thanks! Great pics


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## fidof650

It's alive!!!
(I'll post pix after work tonight but give you the scoop from memory)

Keep in mind that this is intended to be an HTPC/Gaming rig not a benchmark hero. Because this rigs destiny is to live in my living room in constant use for gaming & media, I will be focused on achieving sustainable high performance rather than maximum performance. This is a real world installation of a board that is targeting the real world performance user.

As it sits:
GA-890FXA-UD5 [Mobo]
Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.4 w/.05 v-bump [Proc]
OCZ AMD BE 1600 @ 1066 [Mem]
XFX ATI 4890 @ stock [GPU]
OCZ GameXsteam 700 [PSU]
WD Cav. BL 500 Ghz 7200 [HDD]
Light On BR/DVD [Opt Drv)
Hauppauge 2250 [Tuner]
SilverStone LC10B-E HTPC (Black Aluminum) [Case]
Samsung 46" LCD HD1080p TV

Of interest:

Board is solid, hefty, and screams build quality.

PWR Button, Reset Button, & CLR CMOS Button all light up led blue. (looks sharp)

Light On drivers were not initially recognized which made reading the drivers disk interesting.
Found new hardware detected and installed it after several reboots while I was working on the ATI drivers.

ATI drivers installed manually via download so far so good but not 'tested' other than basic use.

Gigabyte driver utility is slick and easy.

BIOS is intuitive and easily navigated.
Does require PS/2 keyboard to enter.
When altering the multiplier it calculated the target frequency and displayed it to the right. (nice feature)
(haven't played much with it yet, it was late)

With core unlocker enabled:

Windows reported Phenom II X4 20 2.81

CPU-Z reported Phenom II X4 but read only 1 core & 1 thread. (tried to tinker a bit in BIOS but without success)

With core unlocker disabeled:

I went strait for a 3.4 OC as this was what I had on the previous Mobo. Windows would not load at stock voltage. Windows would almost load with .025 bump. Windows loaded with .05 bump. I have not stressed the proc yet but it stayed at 3.4 for the rest of the evening without issue.

Memory was left at 1066 and CL9 which is what it defaulted to.
I did make a half assed attempt at 1600 and 1333 with stock voltages but both failed with CPU @ 3.4. I'll look at it with a more discerning eye later.

TV tuner was not recognized by windows despite reinstalling drivers several times. This is the same tuner I was watching TV on while I made my unboxing post. I think its a windows issue rather than a board issue but I'll investigate further tonight.

SATA header position was inconvenient for working in this case but, manageable with creative cable routing.

My initial impression is that this board is exactly what one might expect it to be... rock solid and predictable. Installation was unremarkable (a good thing) and smooth. Once I iron out the practical issues (tuner) I'll put it through its paces a bit. I'll also be doing a clean windows install next week which will give a better picture.
(More to come)


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
BIOS is intuitive and easily navigated.
Does require PS/2 keyboard to enter.

I wont be able to use my 2.4ghz usb wireless k/m?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I wont be able to use my 2.4ghz usb wireless k/m?

When I taped Delete to enter BIOS on my USB keyboard it didn't recognize it and proceeded with the normal boot rutine. When I plugged a keyboard in via PS/2 it worked.

I have always used a PS/2 keyboard when working in BIOS.
My wireless Keyboard/mouse has both PS/2 and USB on the transmitter and also works in BIOS.

It was also late when I was doing this and I didn't try and resolve it but instead just plugged in my PS/2 keyboard. It may be resolved after the drivers are loaded or as an option in BIOS however, the initial boot into BIOS will require a PS/2 keyboard.


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## ToxicAdam

Okay, I have a PS/2 keyboard but no mouse.


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## fidof650

Mouse doesn't work in BIOS anyway








USB keyboard works in BIOS once you use the PS/2 to enter.


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## ToxicAdam

That's true lol
UPS guy just dropped off mine! Installing it now


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## NCspecV81

UD7 is now released on newegg.


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## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
UPS guy just dropped off mine! Installing it now









Can't wait to see your post w/pics and impressions.

Thinking we should start a GA-890FXA-UD5 Owners thread...


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## nvidiagamer

Gigabyte motherboards are great and have good prices. The only issue I have with them is the color scheme, these new mobos still look EXACTLY the same as my EP45-UD3P. I just can't buy another motherboard that looks exactly the same as my last one. Other than that, these are rock solid and I would buy one in an instant.


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## raisethe3

Oh damn. Now it all comes to decisions on whether I want to go with ASUS Crosshair IV Formula, Gigabyte 890FX-UD7, Gigabyte 890FX-UD5, or the MSI 890FXA-GD70.
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *NCspecV81* 
UD7 is now released on newegg.


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## Magus2727

That has some beautiful heat sinks on the bridges and phased power fets...


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raisethe3*


Oh damn. Now it all comes to decisions on whether I want to go with ASUS Crosshair IV Formula, Gigabyte 890FX-UD7, Gigabyte 890FX-UD5, or the MSI 890FXA-GD70.

















Unless you plan to run a 4X CrossFire the UD7 is not nessissary and will limit your case choices because it's XL-ATX. Not to mention it costing $70 more than the UD5.

The MSI GD70 does not support high end audio for gaming and showed the least headroom for OCing according to Tech Review which together was a deal breaker for me.

ASUS had lower quality Audio when compared to Gigabyte (Tech Review) but higher OC headroom. It did however cost $50 more than the UD5 which was a big deciding factor.

Just my $.02


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## ToxicAdam

Finish!!!

This is my first Gigabyte and found the setup easy. I'm recharging my camera batteries for some installation pics. The HD audio on the motherboard is in a funky spot though.. other than that everything went well. Overclock to 3.8ghz at first boot before even installing a OS.

My front fans seem to be running slower for some odd reason.. they're running off molex so its not the motherboard.

The Ram setup in bios is little on the advance side.. compare to the MSI anyways. Gigabyte throws a lot of value numbers at you.. some of what I never seen.. I guess my way through some of it. I'm going to research another UD5 thread here to see if I got it right.

I am now reinstalling EA download manger to download my copy of BF:BC2 ..again. It says I have 2 more hours to go...

oh, good grief..


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## raisethe3

Wow, thank you for the analysis.

As for me, I like to have OCing and want to push my CPU to the near max on air with my new Xigmatek Dark Knight (the one I got on Christmas gift, lol).

I have no plans on running more than 2 cards in future setup. As of right now, I am still using my 8800GT which still rocks all the games out there.

My case only accept ATX no the XL-ATX like you mentioned. So that would be out of my options.

Let me know what you think.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Unless you plan to run a 4X CrossFire the UD7 is not nessissary and will limit your case choices because it's XL-ATX. Not to mention it costing $70 more than the UD5.

The MSI GD70 does not support high end audio for gaming and showed the least headroom for OCing according to Tech Review which together was a deal breaker for me.

ASUS had lower quality Audio when compared to Gigabyte (Tech Review) but higher OC headroom. It did however cost $50 more than the UD5 which was a big deciding factor.

Just my $.02


----------



## ToxicAdam

When setting ram timing on the MSI board I had to set timing in two places..










I don't see where to set it twice on the Gigabyte board. Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Some pics


----------



## Chrono Detector

I'm really disappointed that Gigabyte removed the onboard LED for the final retail version of this board, I mean, why? And also, they changed the northbridge heatsink into an uglier looking one compared to the earlier version. I'm not really impressed with this board, and like I said in other threads, this board is identical to the GA-790FXTA-UD5.


----------



## raisethe3

Could you post the pics of the comparison? That would be grateful.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chrono Detector*


I'm really disappointed that Gigabyte removed the onboard LED for the final retail version of this board, I mean, why? And also, they changed the northbridge heatsink into an uglier looking one compared to the earlier version. I'm not really impressed with this board, and like I said in other threads, this board is identical to the GA-790FXTA-UD5.


Toxic, very nice pics!


----------



## Chrono Detector

^^ Earlier revision:










Retail version:


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chrono Detector* 
And also, they changed the northbridge heatsink into an uglier looking one compared to the earlier version.

Look close at the North bridge heat sink in the earlier revision... It is in the way of the top PCIe x1 slot. The version that is available has cut away part of the north bridge to make room for a card to occupy that first slot. They literally cut a notch in the heat-sink.


----------



## de Cossatot

Just got my board and my 1090T. Reinstalled windows and it seems that I cant turn off the power boost even when it is disabled and I am only getting 4 out of my 6 cores. I went to their website and updated my bios. Anyone else having this problem with a 6x?


----------



## de Cossatot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
When setting ram timing on the MSI board I had to set timing in two places..










I don't see where to set it twice on the Gigabyte board. Am I doing something wrong?

My bios looks a bit different from yours. It is Award Software not American Megatrends. I got Windows to see 6 core by telling it too. Saw it on a different thread but my bios only see 4 cores and still refuses to turn off the power boosting. Anyways, gotta hit the hay for work tomorrow. I wish I could call in but thats not gonna happen. Wanna play with this chip so bad once I get it working right. Gonna post some pics also tomorrow.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *de Cossatot* 
My bios looks a bit different from yours. It is Award Software not American Megatrends. I got Windows to see 6 core by telling it too. Saw it on a different thread but my bios only see 4 cores and still refuses to turn off the power boosting. Anyways, gotta hit the hay for work tomorrow. I wish I could call in but thats not gonna happen. Wanna play with this chip so bad once I get it working right. Gonna post some pics also tomorrow.

That's off my bricked MSI board. I was wondering do you set the the timing twice like you see there


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
Look close at the North bridge heat sink in the earlier revision... It is in the way of the top PCIe x1 slot. The version that is available has cut away part of the north bridge to make room for a card to occupy that first slot. They literally cut a notch in the heat-sink.

http://roguelemming.biz/890fxa-ud5/12.jpg

Lmao, Gigabyte chopped off half the heatsink like a lamb-chop.

My Temps:


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *de Cossatot* 
Just got my board and my 1090T. Reinstalled windows and it seems that I cant turn off the power boost even when it is disabled and I am only getting 4 out of my 6 cores. I went to their website and updated my bios. Anyone else having this problem with a 6x?

What monitoring program is telling you this? Is the bios only showing 4 cores?

These boards come out the box ready for 6 cores.. no need to update the bios. And you say its only showing 4 cores...


----------



## de Cossatot

The bios is telling me this. When I set windows to use 6 cores it worked but it seems like everything I set in bios doesnt hold expect for my raid settings. CPU-Z, Coretemp, and CPUID. Actually just checked and CPUID doesnt show me anything for my CPU or board anymore, just my 5870 temps. In Core Temp I have a temp of 0C. Anyways, if I reset the cmos would this maybe fix it since they come ready for 6x chips? Never had a Gigabyte board so do I hold down the button on the board or just press it once? Thanks again guys.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *de Cossatot* 
Never had a Gigabyte board so do I hold down the button on the board or just press it once? Thanks again guys.

This is my clear CMOS routine which has worked on every board I have ever pwned:

1) Power down you your system, turn off PSU and unplug the power cable;

2) Press and hold the power button (Case or Mobo) for about 30 seconds to drain any residual charge from the board;

3) Press the clear CMOS button firmly to ensure good switch contact (no extended hold needed but, don't just tap it either);

4) Replace power cable, switch on PSU, and Start your computer.


----------



## de Cossatot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
This my my clear CMOS routine which has worked on every board I have ever pwned:

1) Power down you your system, turn off PSU and unplug the power cable;

2) Press and hold the power button (Case or Mobo) for about 30 seconds to drain any residual charge from the board;

3) Press the clear CMOS button firmly to ensure good switch contact (no extended hold needed but, don't just tap it either);

4) Replace power cable, switch on PSU, and Start your computer.

Just got home from work and tried this and it reset my bios but still no luck on the bios settings sticking. Performance boost wont stay off and I can only see Cores 2,3,4,5 in the bios. Weird thing is though is that windows see all of em and prime is working them all right now also. Whats a better program to use to monitor my frequency and volts? CPUID has an error every time I start it and wont show me anything anymore.

Nm, got it working. Do these things really run that cool? Wow.


----------



## ToxicAdam

D/p


----------



## ToxicAdam

My Heaven 2.0 Scores. Before and After..

Getting a better score with the Gigabyte clocked lower.

Default settings.

MSI 790FX-GD70 3.8GHz DDR3 1333 6-6-6-18 24










Default settings.

Gigabyte 890FX UD5 3.6GHz DDR3 1333 6-6-6-24 30


----------



## ToxicAdam

Here's the Gigabyte at *3.8GHz* DDR3 1333 6-6-6-24 30


----------



## ChrisB17

Whats the max HTT speed on this board? Also is there any "Coming in and out of sleep issues" ? Thanks.


----------



## Ryan747

/\\ I also would like to know that. /\\


----------



## Shroomalistic

what are the cons of the UD5 vs lets say the crosshair IV formula


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic* 
what are the cons of the UD5 vs lets say the crosshair IV formula

The ASUS has fan-speed control in BIOS and additional but redundant methods for OCing. It's also arguably better looking and $50.00 more expensive.

TechReport suggests that the ASUS has higher OC headroom but I haven't seen any other reviews to support this claim.

Feture for feture you get _more_ with the ASUS but function for function they are the same aside from the ASUS BIOS fan control.

Personally, I think this is a case of more just being _more_ rather than better and therefore not worth the $50.00. I picked up the 890FXA-UD5 and it has been fantastic! No problems and no regrets! It has been running smoothly since last week and last night I did an OS reinstall on a fresh hard drive without issue. All drivers and software loaded easily without a single hiccup and the system was ticking away happily this morning when I woke up. I OCed my Phenom II x3 720 @ 3.4 & .05v over without issue but failed to unlock the 4th core. (it has never worked on any board with this particular proc)

I'll tinker more this week.


----------



## fidof650

I've started an UnOfficial GA-890FXA-UD5 page HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If this page generates enough interest I will take the necessary steps to make it official.

Its official, you're reading it! lol (Threads got merged)


----------



## fidof650

D/p


----------



## ChrisB17

Great thread idea. So I will ask the question I have.

Whats the max HTT speed on this board? Also is there any "Coming in and out of sleep issues" when overclocked ? Thanks.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Great thread idea. So I will ask the question I have.

Whats the max HTT speed on this board? Also is there any "Coming in and out of sleep issues" when overclocked ? Thanks.

I have not played around much with OCing on this board as I'm more interested in a balance between performance and longevity but, I can tell you that I had no "Coming in and out of sleep issues" with the Phenom II 3x 720 @ 3.4 with a .05 voltage bump. I ran it that way over the weekend but have returned it to stock for the moment while I create the ultimate HDD image for this rig.
I've also not played around with Memory yet.


----------



## mike44njdevils

Nice, I hope to officially be a part of this unofficial club soon.









One thing, may want to change the title to read "...890FXA-UD5*/UD7*..."


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mike44njdevils* 
One thing, may want to change the title to read "...890FXA-UD5*/UD7*..."

Good suggestion... I considered this but I want to see more information published that compare/contrasts the two boards. When I search for this at the moment I only come up with comments that I made when I compared the two users manuals.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Add me!


----------



## Valderag

Okay, so here's another question for those of you that have it. I currently have the GA-790FXTA-UD5. I'm still within Newegg RMA time, so should I take the plunge and upgrade to the 890FXA-UD5, or stay where I am?


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok I bought the UD5. I couldn't see spending $80.00 on 2 extra PCIe slots and a waterblock on the nb for the UD7.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valderag*


Okay, so here's another question for those of you that have it. I currently have the GA-790FXTA-UD5. I'm still within Newegg RMA time, so should I take the plunge and upgrade to the 890FXA-UD5, or stay where I am?


If it were my money I would exchange it because it's going to be supported longer and the Bulldozer is coming.

Besides, look how pretty it is!!!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Can we get a mod to merge these threads into the Official?

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...=GA-890FXA-UD5

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...=GA-890FXA-UD5


----------



## The Duke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Can we get a mod to merge these threads into the Official?

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...=GA-890FXA-UD5

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...=GA-890FXA-UD5


Done


----------



## ChrisB17

Add me. I just bought the UD5. I couldn't bring myself to spend the extra 80+ for the UD7.


----------



## raisethe3

I thought you were using the Crosshair IV?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Add me. I just bought the UD5. I couldn't bring myself to spend the extra 80+ for the UD7.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Duke* 
Done









Almost









I meant for you to merge those two threads into this one.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raisethe3*


I thought you were using the Crosshair IV?


No I rmaed it. The NB heatsink was not making contact with the chip at all. It also came with a damaged ram slot and a missing screw on the VRM heatsink. So I didn't want another one and got the UD5 instead. Hopefully the quality is a bit better.


----------



## zenkis15

Please let us know, I'm really debating between the CH4 and the UD5, and now with the CH4 problems also the UD5 has Voltage limits of 1.55v in the Bios









I need a Mobo, I have everything for my new system but the Mobo and Ram.


----------



## raisethe3

Wow, unbelievable. I always thought the ASUS have great quality check. Its what's its known for. I sure hope you enjoy this new one, its sure a bit expensive for my taste.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


No I rmaed it. The NB heatsink was not making contact with the chip at all. It also came with a damaged ram slot and a missing screw on the VRM heatsink. So I didn't want another one and got the UD5 instead. Hopefully the quality is a bit better.


Edit: @ ChrisB17- Any chance of making a guide for the 890 boards like you did for the 790? I would like you know your thoughts on the this board? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16813131631R


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raisethe3*


Wow, unbelievable. I always thought the ASUS have great quality check. Its what's its known for. I sure hope you enjoy this new one, its sure a bit expensive for my taste.

Edit: @ ChrisB17- Any chance of making a guide for the 890 boards like you did for the 790? I would like you know your thoughts on the this board? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16813131631R


Yes I will be "updating" that guide when I get some reviews and read up on each board.

And yea I was very disappointed at the Crosshair. I love asus but damn that was a quality nightmare. I seen a screw missing and the ram slot was damaged and just said "***"


----------



## mike44njdevils

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


I love asus but damn that was a quality nightmare. I seen a screw missing and the ram slot was damaged and just said "***"










That worries me. Admittedly, I've never owned an Asus board, but I usually equate them with top of the line. I don't like what I'm hearing.

Also, I was going to ask about the 800 series breakdown like you did with the 700 series. Looks like someone beat me to it


----------



## raisethe3

Sorry.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *mike44njdevils*









That worries me. Admittedly, I've never owned an Asus board, but I usually equate them with top of the line. I don't like what I'm hearing.

*Also, I was going to ask about the 800 series breakdown like you did with the 700 series. Looks like someone beat me to it*


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
No I rmaed it. The NB heatsink was not making contact with the chip at all. It also came with a damaged ram slot and a missing screw on the VRM heatsink. So I didn't want another one and got the UD5 instead. Hopefully the quality is a bit better.

I've had a great quality experience with the 890FXA-UD5!

No issues at all except... I seem to have ordered an x4 965 to replace my x3 720.

It should be on my front porch when I get home!!!

I don't know how it happened... I blame the upgrade knomes!!!

Hey, at least they didn't order me an x6 1090T!!!

I think the x4 is better for gaming anyway.

BTW I have my OCZ AMD BE DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) running at rated clocks "8-8-8-24" and voltage "1.65V" and happy as a clam. I do wish NewEgg hadn't dropped the price right after I bought it! Oh-well.

Can't wait to drop-in the new proc tonight!!!


----------



## fidof650

Is it just me or does it look like the UD7 NB cooler w/water-block could be used on the UD5? The assembly fitment looks identical. Any thoughts?


----------



## raisethe3

Woah, I didn't know that the two clubs have been merged.


----------



## ChrisB17

Yay my board comes tomorrow! I am wondering how cool the NB runs on the board.


----------



## mike44njdevils

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Is it just me or does it look like the UD7 NB cooler w/water-block could be used on the UD5? The assembly fitment looks identical. Any thoughts?


Negative, well sort of. Yes, it can be done, but then you lose and room behind the PCIe x1 slot at the top of the board. Look at the layout and remember the UD7 is an extended ATX board. The top PCIe x16 slots line up with each other.

Now, that isn't a problem if you're not using a PCIe x1 card that is long, but for me it's a heahache.

But to answer your question, it should have no problems being done.

...now, should I get a UD7 for a "Foldamus Maximus" project...


----------



## fidof650

Ok, I've had the Phenom II X4 965 in the board for about 45 min. and this is what I have found.

Using only the unlocked multiplier with stock voltage, memory @ rated settings and OEM HSF:

@19 = 3.8GHz FAIL Crashed while starting BFBC2

@18 = 3.6GHz FAIL Crashed while playing BFBC2

@17 = 3.4GHz FAIL Crashed while playing BFBC2

Going to Clear CMOS and run the memory at 1066MHz to see if its a memory issue.


----------



## ToxicAdam

I ran my 955 on stock voltage up to 3.6GHz with no problem. My ram timings were 1333mhz 6-6-6-24 30


----------



## mike44njdevils

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
Ok, I've had the Phenom II X4 965 in the board for about 45 min. and this is what I have found.

Just out of curiosity, what are your advanced CMOS/BIOS settings and did you remember to turn off C&Q?

Were you getting good numbers on your previous board at stock, well, everything. You know the drill, you may have to fiddle with voltages.

Also, is there some sort of "break in" period for a brand new board.

Lastly, and I swear I'm not questioning your ability, but possible your PSU may be taking a hot steamy dump?









It's completely possible you just need a bump in vCore to get the OCing going...


----------



## fidof650

After I reset CMOS it runs with out a hiccup. all stock but with the default memory settings which are 1066MHz rather than rated 1600MHz which is typical of OCZ (I've had to set the timings on every set I've bought from them to reach rated speed.) I'm going to try and bump the CPU up to 3.6Ghz with the lower memory speed.

PSU should be fine (fairly new) 
cool and quiet was off

Next move:
C&Q off
CPU Multi @ 18 = 3.6Ghz
Mem @ Default 1066Mhz (below rated)
All stock voltage


----------



## ToxicAdam

I'm running at 3.7GHz 1.39v 18.5x to enable Cool n quiet. The board automatically turns off Cool n quiet at 3.8GHz

This will be my 24/7 settings.


----------



## ChrisB17

There are alot of nice overclocks coming out of this board. I cant wait to play with my board when it comes.

Can anyone tell me if the north bridge runs warm and I should replace the thermal paste with good stuff? Or leave it alone? Thanks.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:

Next move:
C&Q off
CPU Multi @ 18 = 3.6Ghz
Mem @ Default 1066Mhz (below rated)
All stock voltage
This worked... Played one map BFBC2 without issue.

This success coupled with the crash at rated memory settings with stock CPU settings suggests a memory issue.

Your thoughts?


----------



## mike44njdevils

Typical of OCZ memory. I couldn't do anything above 1066 when I tried to run the Obsidian....


----------



## fidof650

I think I've narrowed down the problem to memory slot two. While diagnosing system crashes and BSODs I checked each stick of memory in each of the first two memory slots. I discovered that the system was stable as long as memory slot two was not being used. The system ran fine with a single stick in memory slot one (I tried out both sticks to rule out bad memory). I also tried both sticks in memory slot two and the system crashed both times. 
Any input is welcome but I think I may need to RMA the board.

Of course just to confuse the issue a bit more, I also ran Memtest86+ with no errors and both slots filled @ rated settings.


----------



## ToxicAdam

The dram bios options is pretty overwhelming .. are you sure values are set right? Simply loading bios defaults may not work since OCZ requires set volts and timing for their ram. Default motherboard ram volts are 1.5v your ram needs 1.65v.

I have OCZ ram as well. The platinum ram I have needs 1.9v. Most motherboards bios numbers go into the red when going that high.. including this board.. but that what OCZ recommends.

Some reviews on newegg seem to have the exact same problem with your ram... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...%28keywords%29

If I were you I would borrow some ram and test it before RMA.


----------



## IEATFISH

Merged two threads per user request. Probably also killed a few posts and messed up a ton of stuff. Enjoy!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IEATFISH*


Merged two threads per user request. Probably also killed a few posts and messed up a ton of stuff. Enjoy!










Most Appreciated


----------



## ToxicAdam

Do any of you guys get this while playing BF:BC2

"Windows Has Detected Your Computer's Performance Is Slow"

I got this with my old MSI board too, so its not motherboard related.

It only happens on BF:BC2 when I exit out the game... I get this pop up message saying my PC is slow and to turn off Areo. But the game runs smooth as silk. No performance issues


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Do any of you guys get this while playing BF:BC2

"Windows Has Detected Your Computer's Performance Is Slow"

I got this with my old MSI board too, so its not motherboard related.


I haven't seen this in BFBC2 first hand though, you're not the first person I've heard to mention it. The game runs fine for me on the UD5 (aside from the memory issues).

Quote:



Some reviews on newegg seem to have the exact same problem with your ram... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...%28keywords%29

If I were you I would borrow some ram and test it before RMA.


I'm calling both OCZ and Gigabyte today and presenting the problem to see what they have to say. If their tech support is worth anything they should both give me the same answer. If they are just trying to save their skin they will each blame the other. If they are honorable they will both offer to replace the product at their expense.

If I get nowhere I'll RMA through NewEgg and start fresh. My gut feeling and given what I've read and my past experience I think this is an OCZ QC issue.

I have a set of OCZ Platinum DDR2 1066mhz that is barley stable and doesn't afford any OC of the proc without crashing. @ 800Mhz its rock solid.

Therefore, OCZ only gets one chance to make good. Anything short of stellar support and I'm going with another company.

Gigabyte gets the benefit of the doubt and I'll replace the board with the same if it turns out to be a mobo issue.


----------



## dham

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Do any of you guys get this while playing BF:BC2

"Windows Has Detected Your Computer's Performance Is Slow"

I got this with my old MSI board too, so its not motherboard related.

It only happens on BF:BC2 when I exit out the game... I get this pop up message saying my PC is slow and to turn off Areo. But the game runs smooth as silk. No performance issues


Yes I get this too. I just ignore it.


----------



## Chrono Detector

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1184015

I just got a 1090T and UD7, very impressed. These chips run so much cooler and more easier to overclock. This is not stable, I just bumped up the multiplier. Will push further to see how much I can max out on air.


----------



## mike44njdevils

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
I'm calling both OCZ and Gigabyte today and presenting the problem to see what they have to say. If their tech support is worth anything they should both give me the same answer. If they are just trying to save their skin they will each blame the other. If they are honorable they will both offer to replace the product at their expense.

GL with that, I'd give a buffalo nickel for the transcript. Did you memtest the RAM? When I tried to get the 1600MHz obsidian to work, I would get a few errors @ 1066MHz, 25k errors @ 1333 MHz, and 40k errors @ 1600 MHz. My current G Skill will run memtest @ 1600 MHz for HOURS with no errors.

Most of the OCZ guys will just tell you to RMA it. I lose more and more respect for the company daily...


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dham* 
Yes I get this too. I just ignore it.

Thanks. That little pup-up message does hurt ones feelings. Putting all our time and money in making a solid preforming system only to be greeted with a "Windows Has Detected Your Computer's Performance Is Slow" pop-up is very disheartening, lol

It has to be something with Dice programming.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mike44njdevils* 
GL with that, I'd give a buffalo nickel for the transcript. Did you memtest the RAM? When I tried to get the 1600MHz obsidian to work, I would get a few errors @ 1066MHz, 25k errors @ 1333 MHz, and 40k errors @ 1600 MHz. My current G Skill will run memtest @ 1600 MHz for HOURS with no errors.

Most of the OCZ guys will just tell you to RMA it. I lose more and more respect for the company daily...

He mention a memtest in an earlier post. It would be a lot more simpler if he had someone he could borrow some DDR3 ram from for a quick test.. If not test the ram in another computer to see if the ram is at fault.


----------



## ryman546

I hear alot of problems with the northbridge on asus boards. Is this happening on the ud5 and ud7 boards?


----------



## fidof650

I have spoken to both Gigabyte and OCZ and they both blamed each-other and in the end both recommended that I RMA their respective products through the original vendor. Gigabyte further suggested that it might be the memory controller on the CPU.

So here is what I have done.

I've ordered a second GA-890FXA-UD5 and new memory from Mushkin this time.

While waiting for the board and memory I'll test the CPU in another board to rule out the memory controller.

Once the new board and memory arrive I'll start by installing the new memory in the original board to see if it resolves the issue.

If the issue persists, I'll replace the board and test both sets of memory in the replacement board.

Once all of this is completed I will still have time to RMA anything that isn't working correctly including the proc if necessary (I have until June 2nd to RMA my original order).

I'll keep you all posted on my progress.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
I hear alot of problems with the northbridge on asus boards. Is this happening on the ud5 and ud7 boards?

I have been asking similar questions for 2 days now.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


I have been asking similar questions for 2 days now.










Trying to get a stable build before I can offer an opinion. Anyone else have NB info?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


I hear alot of problems with the northbridge on asus boards. Is this happening on the ud5 and ud7 boards?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


I have been asking similar questions for 2 days now.










I have no issues with northbridge, nor have I heard anyone else complain about the northbridge on UD5.


----------



## ChrisB17

I am wondering if it runs warm. Can you tell from software what the temps are?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


I am wondering if it runs warm. Can you tell from software what the temps are?


Here's my load temps after playing an hour or so of BF:BC2

Tempin0 is system temp, Tempin1 is northbridge, Tempin2 is cpu.

Northbridge got up to 41c

My ambient temps are 22c


----------



## ChrisB17

Nice. I wonder what the temps would be on IBT or Prime?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Nice. I wonder what the temps would be on IBT or Prime?


I could do 30mins of OCCT if you want.. It's harder on the CPU than those.. I found errors in 15mins that took prime overnight to find.


----------



## ChrisB17

On my I7 I found IBT to find things faster then any of them, But then another day prime would find errors that IBT and LINX didn't which I found odd. Thats why I run stability tests so long haha. I am a bit paranoid I guess.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Since we're only looking at load temps here, 30mins in more than enough.


----------



## ChrisB17

I was just pointing out. I will have the board tomorrow so I will be testing it for awhile. I will post some overclocking results with my 1055t (hopefully)


----------



## ToxicAdam

I'm about to leave and will be back in 30mins with OCCT load temp results.. they should be higher than game load temps. I predict.... northbridge 48c lol


----------



## ChrisB17

48*c sure isnt bad haha. My Old rampage II Gene ran 80*c+ on IDLE.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Northbridge temps were 44c

*_The wavy temperature lines is do to my setup being below the ac vent in my room... when central air comes on my temps drops._


----------



## ChrisB17

Awesome.Thanks for posting that.


----------



## fidof650

@ ChrisB17








I was working on my old rig and I noticed that you wrote the review I was reading... A79A-S It's been a great board and I'm still using it as a second gaming rig/home office rig. I haven't had any of the wake-up issues.

Great minds think alike I guess!


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Northbridge temps were 44c

*_The wavy temperature lines is do to my setup being below the ac vent in my room... when central air comes on my temps drops._











good to hear...cant wait to get my ud7 and overclock.


----------



## fidof650

*AMD Phenom II X4 965*
Windows 7 Ultimate Edition (Build 7600)
CPU Arch : 1 CPU - 4 Cores - 4 Threads
CPU PSN : AMD Phenom II X4 965 Processor
CPU EXT : MMX(+), 3DNow!(+), SSE (1, 2, 3, 4A), x86-64, AMD-V
CPUID : F.4.3 / Extended : 10.4
CPU Cache : L1 : 4 x 64 / 4 x 64 KB - L2 : 4 x 512 KB
CPU Cache : L3 : 6144 KB
Core : Deneb (45 nm) / Stepping : RB-C3
Freq : 3817.63 MHz (200.93 * 19)
MB Brand : Gigabyte
MB Model : GA-890FXA-UD5
NB : ATI ID5A11 rev 02
SB : AMD SB850 rev 40
GPU Type : Radeon HD 4890
GPU Clocks : Core 240 MHz / RAM 975 MHz
DirectX Version : 11.0
RAM : 4096 MB DDR3 Dual Channel
RAM Speed : 535.8 MHz (3:8) @ 7-7-7-16
Slot 1 : 2048MB (8500)
Slot 1 Manufacturer : OCZ
Slot 2 : 2048MB (8500)
Slot 2 Manufacturer : OCZ










Couldn't help tinkering while I wait for the parts to come in.
This seems stable but I'll test it more tonight.

My system is also my television (WMC) so, I was making changes during commercials! LOL


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
@ ChrisB17








I was working on my old rig and I noticed that you wrote the review I was reading... A79A-S It's been a great board and I'm still using it as a second gaming rig/home office rig. I haven't had any of the wake-up issues.

Great minds think alike I guess!









Haha yea that board is awesome.


----------



## ToxicAdam

You might find this thread interesting, ChrisB17

*Experiencing the Giga 890FXA-UD5 + 1055T on air*

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=251055


----------



## ChrisB17

Thanks.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


You might find this thread interesting, ChrisB17

*Experiencing the Giga 890FXA-UD5 + 1055T on air*

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=251055











I saw this... good post!

I'm hoping the find some reviews soon... this board has been out for a while now so the journalists have had ample opportunity to compare notes.


----------



## de Cossatot

I thought I posted this on the this thread but it must have been the 10** OC thread but these are my temps after 2 hours of prime and 4 hours of prime. Looking good on this board.

Edit: Ambient temps are around 25 to 27C


----------



## mike44njdevils

Well well well, looks like the 890FX chipset may be the ONLY way to go with Giga-byte boards:

ga-890xa-ud3-bios-problems-x6

gibabyte-ga-870a-ud3-release-date

gigabyte-890gpa-ud3h-needs-bios-doesnt

Sad things a happenin there. It's nice to have a kickbutt high end board, but gon't give the shaft to the budget side...


----------



## Biermann

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Here's my load temps after playing an hour or so of BF:BC2

Tempin0 is system temp, Tempin1 is northbridge, Tempin2 is cpu.

Northbridge got up to 41c

My ambient temps are 22c


Are you sure those are the proper corresponding temps. From my observation on my board it looks like TEMPIN1 is the CPU, at least with my X6. It corresponds correctly to the BIOS CPU temp and also ramps right along with the cores when starting or ending a test.

When I was running my NB @2700mhz I saw a big rise in TEMPIN0.

Anyhow it would be nice if someone has confirmation which temps are which.


----------



## themaginator

Hi guys I"m new to these forums and to overclocking as a whole. Actually I just made my first build.

I'm trying to replace my Gigabyte 790gpt-ud3h with either the UD5 or the CHIV (i don't think i can wait for the CHIVE), but I'm still undecided. I've been learning a lot from you guys but earlier in the thread someone said the the UD5 had better audio than the CHIV i was wondering how that was so since the CHIV has the X-FI from CREATIVE where as the UD5 has Realtek.

The reason this is important to me is because i get some noise through my speakers when playing music and video.

SORRY for the NOOB questions.

CPU: AMD Phenom II 955 BE
GPU: XFX HD 5770 (i'm buying a second soon for crossfire)
MOBO: GA-MA790GPT-UD3H
OS: WINDOWS 7 64bit
RAM: Super Talent DDR3 1600 (running at 1333 for some reason)
PSU: OCZ 500W Modular
HDD: 1TB Seagate Baracuda


----------



## de Cossatot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *themaginator* 
Hi guys I"m new to these forums and to overclocking as a whole. Actually I just made my first build.

I'm trying to replace my Gigabyte 790gpt-ud3h with either the UD5 or the CHIV (i don't think i can wait for the CHIVE), but I'm still undecided. I've been learning a lot from you guys but earlier in the thread someone said the the UD5 had better audio than the CHIV i was wondering how that was so since the CHIV has the X-FI from CREATIVE where as the UD5 has Realtek.

The reason this is important to me is because i get some noise through my speakers when playing music and video.

SORRY for the NOOB questions.

CPU: AMD Phenom II 955 BE
GPU: XFX HD 5770 (i'm buying a second soon for crossfire)
MOBO: GA-MA790GPT-UD3H
OS: WINDOWS 7 64bit
RAM: Super Talent DDR3 1600 (running at 1333 for some reason)
PSU: OCZ 500W Modular
HDD: 1TB Seagate Baracuda

If you are worried about sound I would get a sound card rather in onboard. The good thing about the UD5 is the slot on the bottom that lets you put a car din there and not worry about crossfire blocking your card. Also I have to run a wireless card because of where my comp is so that is also a plus on the 1x on top.

Is your 955 a C2 or C3?

Also fill out your System spec in your profile. Will help a lot for suggestions.


----------



## themaginator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *de Cossatot*


If you are worried about sound I would get a sound card rather in onboard. The good thing about the UD5 is the slot on the bottom that lets you put a car din there and not worry about crossfire blocking your card. Also I have to run a wireless card because of where my comp is so that is also a plus on the 1x on top.

Is your 955 a C2 or C3?

Also fill out your System spec in your profile. Will help a lot for suggestions.


I believe a C3. But I'm not really sure. How do I check? Is one better than the other?

This is the info on it.
AMD Phenom II X4 Processor 955 (3.2GHz) AM3, Retail (Black Edition)HDZ955GMBX


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *themaginator*


I believe a C3. But I'm not really sure. How do I check?












Quote:



Is one better than the other?


C3 has better overclocking.


----------



## themaginator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 









C3 has better overclocking.

It is a C3.

So then the only thing that this giga board doesn't have when compared to the Asus is the looks? And I take it then that the CHIV's audio isn't a whole lot better because, though its a CREATIVE, its still built in?


----------



## mav2000

So guys how good is the UD5...seems to be well laid out for my needs but am a bit concerned with all the bios issues with all the 890 boards.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *themaginator*


I've been learning a lot from you guys but earlier in the thread someone said the the UD5 had better audio than the CHIV i was wondering how that was so since the CHIV has the X-FI from CREATIVE where as the UD5 has Realtek.


I based my comment on this article and specifically the quotes below. I can also tell you that having been running this board in my HTPC setup and having just finished my 3rd friendly get together movie night, that the audio is fantastic!!!

Quote:



[T]he UD7's integrated Realtek ALC889 codec can pull one trick that the Asus board can't: real-time Dolby Digital Live encoding. This capability encodes 3D positional audio output from games into the standard, multi-channel digital audio format. Sound streams encoded in this way can be piped directly into a DDL-capable amplifier via the board's S/PDIF outputs, bypassing the Realtek's lower-quality onboard digital-to-analog converters.

RightMark Audio Analyzer audio quality
| Overall score |Frequency response | Noise level | Dynamic range | THD | THD + Noise | IMD + Noise | Stereo Crosstalk | IMD at 10kHz
Asus 890FX 4 5 4 4 5 3 4 5 4
Asus 890GX 4 5 4 4 5 3 5 5 5
Gigabyte 890FX 5 5 5 5 5 3 5 5 5
Gigabyte P55 5 5 5 5 5 3 5 5 5
Gigabyte X58 5 5 5 5 5 4 5 4 5
MSI 890FX 5 4 5 4 4 5 3 5 5

The X-Fi audio software bundled with Asus' 890FX board might add more 3D audio effects to games, but it doesn't help the Crosshair's analog output signal quality. The Asus 890FX actually scores lower than the Gigabyte and MSI models in our RightMark Audio Analyzer signal quality test.



Quote:



Gigabyte's 890FXA-UD7 will cost a good $50 more than the GD70 when it hits store shelves. The extra scratch buys you a faster FireWire chip, integrated audio capable of encoding Dolby Digital Live bitstreams on the fly, and more base-clock headroom than on the MSI board.


While this review as about the UD7 it translates to the UD5 because they use the same audio solution.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mav2000*


So guys how good is the UD5...seems to be well laid out for my needs but am a bit concerned with all the bios issues with all the 890 boards.


I have had no BIOS issues with this board.


----------



## themaginator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I based my comment on this article and specifically the quotes below. I can also tell you that having been running this board in my HTPC setup and having just finished my 3rd friendly get together movie night, that the audio is fantastic!!!

While this review as about the UD7 it translates to the UD5 because they use the same audio solution.

I have had no BIOS issues with this board.


Thanks that helps out a lot. I should just get the UD5H for the knowledgeable comunity here. 


----------



## Blaze051806

i got one of these man. i love this board. gigabyte is my fav manufacturer. got a GTS 250 from Gigabyte to =)


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I'm working on the install now and will post more pix later. It might take some time because I'm actually swapping out 3 mobos and upgrading 3 rigs with the hand me down method. Stay tuned.


Sorry I'm late posting these pics, I've been slammed lately...

Looking at the Foxconn A79A-S and the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 it is easy to see why this was an easy choice for my upgrade. They have almost identical layouts!!! The Fox will become my secondary system and my secondary system (another Gigabyte) will bump my backup system which will be sold to pay for the upgrade (circle of life... somebody call Symba!)..









I'm reusing my SliverStone HTPC case as it has been fantastic. It is well ventilated with all the fan slots full and blends into my home theater nicely. My only complaint is that the power LED is too bright but, I solved that with a piece of electrical tape (you cant see it unless you look close and have bright light).









The Foxconn has been relocated and the case is ready for it's new install having been cleaned with my air compressor and a microfiber cloth.









The pecking order... three simultaneous builds is great fun!!!









With everything in place I was ready to fire it up...









Its alive!!!









As I have previously mentioned I have been having a memory problem and have subsequently ordered replacement parts which are due to arrive today. I will keep you all updated on my progress... stay tuned...


----------



## decimator

Just ordered mine off of Newegg







. Can't wait.


----------



## ryman546

Anyone having problems with the voltage fluctuating on the 1090t with core boost and cool and quiet off?

For instance if u set 1.4 in bios. It will hit 1.57 under prime95. Trying to see if anyone else is having this problem


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


Anyone having problems with the voltage fluctuating on the 1090t with core boost and cool and quiet off?

For instance if u set 1.4 in bios. It will hit 1.57 under prime95. Trying to see if anyone else is having this problem










That sounds bad.


----------



## Dirk1

Hello,

I have just built a new system with a 1090t and the UD5.

Running memtest 4.1 with 4 dimms I only get 5655MB/s running my NB at 2600with DDR 1600 7-8-7-24. It does not say it is running dual channel, although CPU-Z reports that it is.

Is this a bug with memtest or possibly my board? I know in memtest 2.11+ it does not recognize a k10 proc, it sees the 1090 as a K8, and the mem timings are all out of wack, but it shows a mem throughput at 10969MB/s, still does not display dual channel.

Can you check your memtest 4.10+ settings to see if your settings are more realistic?

At this point it doesnt matter what proc, however 1090 info would be most helpful.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 







That sounds bad.

so your not having troubles? You should have the exact same bios i think. on your ud5 when u manually set it to 1.4 ...prime95 what does cpuz say.

*edit* nevermind yours is in transit.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
so your not having troubles? You should have the exact same bios i think. on your ud5 when u manually set it to 1.4 ...prime95 what does cpuz say.

*edit* nevermind yours is in transit.

Just a suggestion. Have you taken a look at this thread? It is VERY detailed with the UD7 info.









http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=251330


----------



## ryman546

yah they all seem to be having the same problem.


----------



## ryman546

think ive figured out part of the issue. I guess the base voltage is 1.475. I've downed it to 1.4 and will try to overclock from there. Seems steady.

whats the highest tpin 0 1 and 2 should get up too


----------



## Chrono Detector

I never had any issues with my GA-890FXA-UD7 board, it pretty much works perfectly, though the BIOS itself needs a little tweaking before everything is good to go. I highly recommend it.


----------



## decimator

Mine arrived on my doorstep this afternoon







. Time to gut the PC and slap this bad boy and my shiny new 1090T in.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Mine arrived on my doorstep this afternoon







. Time to gut the PC and slap this bad boy and my shiny new 1090T in.

Fantastic!!!

Don't forget to post pix!!!


----------



## fidof650

My system has run into a bit of a SNAFU... it's not motherboard related however... Read about it here.


----------



## Dirk1

Anyone know what the TMPIN 0,1,2 correspond to on the UD5 (Cupid HM)? On prime I am getting 0: 45c, 1: 56c, 2: 64c. This is with a 1090T 3800, 1.325v with a push pull exhaust H50.

And seriously, if anyone could run a quick memtest to check if it sees dual channel on this board that would be helpful in my toubleshooting mem issues.


----------



## ChrisB17

If this has been posted then I appoligize in advance. New 'F2" bios posted on gigabytes site for the UD5.

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/M...ver=#anchor_os


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
If this has been posted then I appoligize in advance. New 'F2" bios posted on gigabytes site for the UD5.

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/M...ver=#anchor_os

Great Post... This has been added to the first page.

Please, post if you install this and tell us about it!!!


----------



## Dirk1

What does it change, the documentation is sparce to say the least.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Great Post... This has been added to the first page.

Please, post if you install this and tell us about it!!!


I will install it tomorrow.


----------



## decimator

So I put everything together just now. Started it up and POST'ed perfectly. No problems so far. I set the memory to its rated timings of 8-8-8 @ 1600MHz and go to run Memtest. Memtest is running fine, but it shows the RAM running at 1033MHz with timings of 7-7-7







. I go back into the BIOS to check the settings and they're still set at 1600MHz 8-8-8. What's going on here?


----------



## Biermann

Loaded F2 on my UD5 a bit ago.

Changes:

-Now properly reports Base Clock Speed (not the Turbo Speed)
-Turbo Core On-Off and Multiplier now on main BIOS page (below base clock at the top)
-CNQ seems to work properly now, all cores are at full speed/multi when idle
-Voltage regulation seems better, related to CNQ, system is no longer undervolting the CPU when all settings disabled in BIOS

Otherwise things look the same. Another note I left my ram timings on AUTO and it actually booted into Windows with 7-7-7-20-24-2T timings with stock 1.650 voltage with a modest 3.5Ghz OC on the CPU (NOT possible before).

Overall things are looking up, however the Temps are still unidentified in HWmonitor etc.


----------



## raisethe3

I know people say the bios is usually correct, but have you try running CPU-Z just to confirm? Check the results. Maybe Memtest isn't detecting it correctly?









Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
So I put everything together just now. Started it up and POST'ed perfectly. No problems so far. I set the memory to its rated timings of 8-8-8 @ 1600MHz and go to run Memtest. Memtest is running fine, but it shows the RAM running at 1033MHz with timings of 7-7-7







. I go back into the BIOS to check the settings and they're still set at 1600MHz 8-8-8. What's going on here?


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *raisethe3* 
I know people say the bios is usually correct, but have you try running CPU-Z just to confirm? Check the results. Maybe Memtest isn't detecting it correctly?









Haven't installed an OS yet, haha







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Biermann* 
Loaded F2 on my UD5 a bit ago.

How did you flash the BIOS? Did you use Q-Flash? With a floppy or a thumb drive? If it's a thumb drive, does it have to be a bootable thumb drive?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Biermann*


Loaded F2 on my UD5 a bit ago.

Changes:

-Now properly reports Base Clock Speed (not the Turbo Speed)
-Turbo Core On-Off and Multiplier now on main BIOS page (below base clock at the top)
-CNQ seems to work properly now, all cores are at full speed/multi when idle
-Voltage regulation seems better, related to CNQ, system is no longer undervolting the CPU when all settings disabled in BIOS

Otherwise things look the same. Another note I left my ram timings on AUTO and it actually booted into Windows with 7-7-7-20-24-2T timings with stock 1.650 voltage with a modest 3.5Ghz OC on the CPU (NOT possible before).

Overall things are looking up, however the Temps are still unidentified in HWmonitor etc.


Where did you get that from? F1 only shows on Gigabyte's bios page...

http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/Support/...ver=#anchor_os


----------



## Biermann

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


How did you flash the BIOS? Did you use Q-Flash? With a floppy or a thumb drive? If it's a thumb drive, does it have to be a bootable thumb drive?


Just un7'd it and dropped it on a Fat32 formatted thumb drive, flashed through the BIOS/Q-Flash no problems. Had legacy USB enabled in original BIOS and it recognized the thumb fine.

Here are my before and after voltages with a quick run in OCCT.

*BIOS F1*









*BIOS F2*


----------



## decimator

Thanks, Biermann. Can you post the link to the F2 BIOS? Like ToxicAdam said, it's not listed on Gigabyte's site yet and I can't find it anywhere through a Google search.


----------



## Biermann

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Where did you get that from? F1 only shows on Gigabyte's bios page...

http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/Support/...ver=#anchor_os











That's weird, I usually use the Taiwan site because back in the day the driver/BIOS updates were always on their first. However I just posted the links in the 1055t thread and went to grab it for you and am now getting a "Service Unavailable" response from their server's. 
*
[EDIT] Just went back to Gigabyte.tw site and it is showing again. 890FXA-UD5 BIOS F2 HERE*


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Biermann*


That's weird, I usually use the Taiwan site because back in the day the driver/BIOS updates were always on their first. However I just posted the links in the 1055t thread and went to grab it for you and am now getting a "Service Unavailable" response from their server's. 
*
[EDIT] Just went back to Gigabyte.tw site and it is showing again. 890FXA-UD5 BIOS F2 HERE*


Thx, man. Got it.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Biermann*


Just un7'd it and dropped it on a Fat32 formatted thumb drive, flashed through the BIOS/Q-Flash no problems. Had legacy USB enabled in original BIOS and it recognized the thumb fine.

Here are my before and after voltages with a quick run in OCCT.

*BIOS F1*









*BIOS F2*










Wow... rock solid voltage!


----------



## Chrono Detector

I wish there was a new BIOS for the UD7.


----------



## decimator

Sweet, the new F2 BIOS hasn't given me any errors in Memtest so far. 20 passes of test 5 looped and still going. With F1, I had errors after 18 passes on test 5. I'll run it for a while longer just to make sure it really isn't shoddy RAM.


----------



## Dirk1

Since you are running mem test can you tell me what speed your memory is running at and if mem test says that it running dual channel?

With 2 or 4 stick mem test is only reporting 5655MB/s on my sticks running 1600 7-8-7-24 with a 2600 NB.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Biermann*


That's weird, I usually use the Taiwan site because back in the day the driver/BIOS updates were always on their first. However I just posted the links in the 1055t thread and went to grab it for you and am now getting a "Service Unavailable" response from their server's. 
*
[EDIT] Just went back to Gigabyte.tw site and it is showing again. 890FXA-UD5 BIOS F2 HERE*


Got it! Thank you.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirk1*


Since you are running mem test can you tell me what speed your memory is running at and if mem test says that it running dual channel?

With 2 or 4 stick mem test is only reporting 5655MB/s on my sticks running 1600 7-8-7-24 with a 2600 NB.


In the BIOS, I set my memory to run at 1600MHz like they're rated to. I left the timings on auto. In Memtest, it's showing me completely different numbers. Memtest is showing that I'm running DDR1033 and my timings are 1-7-9








. It's not showing the tRAS timing, either. No errors after 35 passes of test 5, though. It's not showing anything about dual channel.

This is all on F2 BIOS, BTW.


----------



## Dirk1

What version of mem test are you running? 4.1+ is the latest, 2.11+ is all F***ed up heh. It seems 4.1+ isnt doing so hot with the 1090/890 chipset either.


----------



## decimator

Yeah, I'm running 2.11+ haha.

EDIT: Over 50 passes of test 5, so I switch to test 8 and get an error on the very first pass







.


----------



## Dirk1

After RMA'ing the original ripjaws I had for this build I ordered some cas 6 pi's. They didnt want to boot at 6-8-6-24 until I updated the bios - now it seems to be running like a champ. Also beware the bios update changed the 'normal' value for core volt from 1.475 to something around 1.3.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


In the BIOS, I set my memory to run at 1600MHz like they're rated to. I left the timings on auto. In Memtest, it's showing me completely different numbers. Memtest is showing that I'm running DDR1033 and my timings are 1-7-9








. It's not showing the tRAS timing, either. No errors after 35 passes of test 5, though. It's not showing anything about dual channel.

This is all on F2 BIOS, BTW.


My build along with my other 3 PC's I have including my bros PC does the SAME thing on Memtest. Its a issue with memtest IMO and not the ram.









Example. My bros PC runs DDR2-1066 @ 5-5-5-15 timings (OCZ rated). Well we set those in the bios (CPUZ shows them also) but then when we run memtest it shows DDR2-890 9-9-9-24 timings.
















Yea WEIRD.


----------



## Biermann

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


In the BIOS, I set my memory to run at 1600MHz like they're rated to. I left the timings on auto. In Memtest, it's showing me completely different numbers. Memtest is showing that I'm running DDR1033 and my timings are 1-7-9








. It's not showing the tRAS timing, either. No errors after 35 passes of test 5, though. It's not showing anything about dual channel.

This is all on F2 BIOS, BTW.


Not sure about Memtest but CPU-Z is reporting properly. I just swapped in new ram when I installed everything in the case a few minutes ago and the default timings of this new ram successfully updated and display correctly with no BIOS interaction.

Before tearing things down I was testing the new BIOS F2 with the original ram, Patriot Sector 5 that would error within 15mins @ Cas8 at stock speed, and not even Post @ Cas7 rated timings with a heavy overvolt, were up and running at rated Cas7 timings on Auto. It looks as if Gigabyte made some good headway here in this 1st revision. Hopefully more good things to come.

I believe Gigabyte released these boards early to catch some hot sales with the fresh X6 chips, and the original BIOS was a little premature. Many HW review sites had posted "Previews" of these weeks ago, and while they were cranking out reviews on the MSI and ASUS boards, but nothing more on the Gigabyte 890FX boards. I think Giga asked them to wait, or the reviewers let them know of the problems, and they have been waiting for a more mature BIOS. Good to see them crank one out this fast.


----------



## fidof650

I haven't flashed my BIOS yet however:

Memtest 4.1+, CPU-Z, and F1 BIOS are all in agreement regarding my memory settings









As noted in my sig. I'm running Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) rated @ 7-9-7-24 & 1.65v..... For this test it was set @ 1333MHz & 9-9-9-24

The system is rock solid at the settings in my Sig. per an extended BFBC2 torture @ it's highest settings. I'll be bumping it up slowly over time.

It passed a short BFBC2 test this morning with CPU at 3.7: Multiplier @ 18.5 and stock voltage with C&Q on. I'll run it hard when I get home after work. If successful, I'll turn my attention to the memory next.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Biermann*


I believe Gigabyte released these boards early to catch some hot sales with the fresh X6 chips, and the original BIOS was a little premature. Many HW review sites had posted "Previews" of these weeks ago, and while they were cranking out reviews on the MSI and ASUS boards, but nothing more on the Gigabyte 890FX boards. I think Giga asked them to wait, or the reviewers let them know of the problems, and they have been waiting for a more mature BIOS. Good to see them crank one out this fast.


When I called Gigabyte to find out why they were late to market with their 890FXA boards they told me (among other things) that they were flooded with calls asking about when the boards would be released. They also told me it was a "shipping issue" and assured me that they were ready... keeping in mind that I was talking to the sales department I'm was inclined to believe as Biermann does. I have also been inquiring all over the place about the lack of reviews for this board with little response.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I haven't flashed my BIOS yet however:

Memtest 4.1+, CPU-Z, and F1 BIOS are all in agreement regarding my memory settings









As noted in my sig. I'm running Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) rated @ 7-9-7-24 & 1.65v..... For this test it was set @ 1333MHz & 9-9-9-24

The system is rock solid at the settings in my Sig. per an extended BFBC2 torture @ it's highest settings. I'll be bumping it up slowly over time.

It passed a short BFBC2 test this morning with CPU at 3.7: Multiplier @ 18.5 and stock voltage with C&Q on. I'll run it hard when I get home after work. If successful, I'll turn my attention to the memory next.

When I called Gigabyte to find out why they were late to market with their 890FXA boards they told me (among other things) that they were flooded with calls asking about when the boards would be released. They also told me it was a "shipping issue" and assured me that they were ready... keeping in mind that I was talking to the sales department I'm was inclined to believe as Biermann does. I have also been inquiring all over the place about the lack of reviews for this board with little response.


Can you tighten those timings at all? If you ram is rated for 7-9-7-24 I think it should run those? Not to mention you dropped the speed. Is it a board or Ram issue?


----------



## ToxicAdam

F2 bios is up on the US site now

http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/Support/...ver=#anchor_os


----------



## ChrisB17

Lol why is the .tw site faster than the .US site for me?


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Lol why is the .tw site faster than the .US site for me?

It's faster for everyone. Gigabyte is a Taiwanese company based out of Taipei, so it's only natural to update their Taiwanese site first







.

EDIT: Just ran 3DMark06 and got a score of 17687 with everything at stock settings. CPU score was 5688. 3DMark06 doesn't recognize my 1090T







. It just says "missing CPU".


----------



## decimator

Also, I updated my memtest floppy to version 4.1 and now it won't load. Does anybody know what's going on? At startup with the floppy in, it says "loading" and then reboots.

And here's my CPU-Z banner so that I can be added to the club.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Also, I updated my memtest floppy to version 4.1 and now it won't load. Does anybody know what's going on? At startup with the floppy in, it says "loading" and then reboots.

And here's my CPU-Z banner so that I can be added to the club.



Can you revert back?


----------



## decimator

I'll try later, but first I want to try 4.1 again with a bootable USB drive.


----------



## ChrisB17

Got this finally running today. Booted up perfectly etc. I am having problems with my Temps. I run coretemp and it says my CPU is 19*C. Thats impossible its hot in my room and I cant see how its running that cool. (Unless my megahalem is that pro)


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Got this finally running today. Booted up perfectly etc. I am having problems with my Temps. I run coretemp and it says my CPU is 19*C. Thats impossible its hot in my room and I cant see how its running that cool. (Unless my megahalem is that pro)


I think everyone is having problems with temp readings right now. That's why I'm not overclocking just yet.

Anyway, I finally got Memtest 4.1 to work. Had to use an ISO image burned to a CD. Wouldn't work from a floppy or a bootable USB drive for some reason...


----------



## ChrisB17

HWmonitor shows the temps most accuretly IMO.

TMPIN0 is 34*C (I take it thats the CPU?)
TMPIN1 is 27*C (Northbridge?)
TMPIN2 is 30*C (Southbridge?)

Anyone know what each are?

*Edit* I thought I would post this.

Here is the ram I use. It booted up at 1333 but I set the ram to 1.590volts and put it to 1600 with the recommened timings. Hasn't had any issues yet. Pretty nice ram IMO.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-351-_-Product


----------



## Chrono Detector

Yeah my temperatures readings on my UD7 is a bit weird, not sure if its accurate, because it shows that my 1090T is idling at 10C with Cool N Quiet enabled, but when I checked the BIOS it was reporting it at 22C.


----------



## ChrisB17

If I go by my bios then TMPIN0 is correct for the CPU. So I guess that works.


----------



## Biermann

Based off BIOS CPU temp and using an IR Thermo my readings match: TEMPIN0 = System, IN1 = CPU, IN2 = NB.

For those that seem to have TEMPIN0 = CPU, does this parameter ramp up at an even rate along with the core temp readings (just 9 or 10C higher) when you start a benchmark or stress test. That should be the easiest way to tell, that and/or match the one with the same CPU temp in the BIOS. Then the other temp that rams a little will be your NB, and last the one that stays relatively the same all the time will be your system/mobo temp.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Can you tighten those timings at all? If you ram is rated for 7-9-7-24 I think it should run those? Not to mention you dropped the speed. Is it a board or Ram issue?










No issue, I just decided to start low and bump up over time. I'll be posting a screen-shot later of last nights test = Prime stable (4hrs 39min combined torture) @ CPU 3.7 & Mem 1333 8-8-8-24

It was rock solid and I'm sure it will go further, I just want to establish some safe settings for reference. I chose CPU 3.7 because C&Q will run.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

you can count me on the list







have it but don't run it until I have a good case or tech station







.

edit : Have the UD7 rev 2.0


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
No issue, I just decided to start low and bump up over time. I'll be posting a screen-shot later of last nights test = Prime stable (4hrs 39min combined torture) @ CPU 3.7 & Mem 1333 8-8-8-24

It was rock solid and I'm sure it will go further, I just want to establish some safe settings for reference. I chose CPU 3.7 because C&Q will run.

The temp peeked at 58c early on but settled at 55c-56c for the rest of the time.

Room temp was about 60f most of the time and got as warm as 71f this morning.










Given these results, my plan is to leave the CPU at 3.7Ghz and play with the memory some more. I'm also going to try the OCZ AMD BE 1600 again before I RMA it just to see if I can get better results in this (2nd) board. This should tell me if the original problem was an OCZ or a Gigabyte issue.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
I have spoken to both Gigabyte and OCZ and they both blamed each-other and in the end both recommended that I RMA their respective products through the original vendor.


----------



## ChrisB17

Here is what I managed so far. Its priming now.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1199215


----------



## ToxicAdam

How hard is it to get 1090T to 4GHz? I just want to use the multiplier..

Its not as hard as the 955 is it? With those chips it seemed you hard to mix a little NB overclocking to get it to 4Ghz stable.


----------



## ChrisB17

TBH it wasn't to hard getting the 1055t to 4 ghz. It took like 45 min. Now all I need to do is get the voltages right and prime and I am calling it done.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


How hard is it to get 1090T to 4GHz? I just want to use the multiplier..

Its not as hard as the 955 is it? With those chips it seemed you hard to mix a little NB overclocking to get it to 4Ghz stable.


Doesn't overclocking the NB really help in terms of performance, though?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Here is what I managed so far. Its priming now.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1199215


Awesome!!! Can't wait to see results.

Your cpu-z validation has been added to P1.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Awesome!!! Can't wait to see results.

Your cpu-z validation has been added to P1.


Hey, fidof, I posted my CPU-Z banner in a previous post in the thread. Wanna add me to the front page?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marc-Olivier Beaudoin*


you can count me on the list







have it but don't run it until I have a good case or tech station







.

edit : Have the UD7 rev 2.0










Done


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Done


Thanks









I'm still wondering if the humongous NB-heatsink is likely to break if I run it completely out of case without expansion slot holding it









Cost me an arm and don't want to screw the NB the first time I replace the heatsink .

Edit : want to run it on cardboard


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Done


LOL, cmon fidof, stop ignoring me







. Here's my CPU-Z banner.



Now add me, please







.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


awesome!!! Can't wait to see results.

Your cpu-z validation has been added to p1.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


LOL, cmon fidof, stop ignoring me







. Here's my CPU-Z banner.



Now add me, please







.


Done


----------



## decimator

Thank you, sir







.

AHHH, NO, PRIME95 FAILED! AT STOCK SETTINGS! Hardware failure on worker 6 after 8 tests of in-place, large FFT's. C'mon, why must this be happening to me...?


----------



## ChrisB17

I am also sad. My grandma came from Florida and walked in my room and said "What is that thing? Its ugly" She was pointing at my PC case. OMG


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Thank you, sir







.

AHHH, NO, PRIME95 FAILED! AT STOCK SETTINGS! Hardware failure on worker 6 after 8 tests of in-place, large FFT's. C'mon, why must this be happening to me...?









I'll bet dollars to doughnuts it's the OCZ AMD BE memory...

I had the same issue:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
Ok, I've had the Phenom II X4 965 in the board for about 45 min. and this is what I have found.

Using only the unlocked multiplier with stock voltage, memory @ rated settings and OEM HSF:

@19 = 3.8GHz FAIL Crashed while starting BFBC2

@18 = 3.6GHz FAIL Crashed while playing BFBC2

@17 = 3.4GHz FAIL Crashed while playing BFBC2

Going to Clear CMOS and run the memory at 1066MHz to see if its a memory issue.

By lowering the frequency to 1066MHz I was able to do this: 
But I'm getting far better results from the Mushkin I replaced it with.

I'll be comparing them both tonight and/or sometime over the weekend but, I think I'm just going through the motions. If you read the NewEgg reviews on that memory they are fairly dismal so, I don't expect much. I have no doubt the I'll RMA the OCZ memory in the end.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
I am also sad. My grandma came from Florida and walked in my room and said "What is that thing? Its ugly" She was pointing at my PC case. OMG

If your build is scaring old women, children, or pets.... You know you've done something right!!!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
I am also sad. My grandma came from Florida and walked in my room and said "What is that thing? Its ugly" She was pointing at my PC case. OMG

I want to see! Got any pics of the case?


----------



## ChrisB17

I will get pics later.

As for priming. The rig is still priming at 4 ghz.

The HWmonitor temps are.

TMPIN0 34*c

TMPIN1 52*c

TMPIN2 54*c

Those ok? Or to high?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Under load? I thinks those temps are fine considering your OC.


----------



## ChrisB17

Yea 100% load via prime


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Yea 100% load via prime


Temps look good to me


----------



## ToxicAdam

Intel Northbridge chips has a Tcase_max of 99C

Anyone know AMD max?


----------



## Dirk1

Just finished my last stress test.

1090T/UD5
CPU: x19 3800 at 1.35v (I wanted this speed at the lowest volts i could do)
NB: x13 2600 at 1.17v, Cpu NB vid + .050
Mem: 8gigs Gskill Pi 1600 6-8-6-24 1.6v

Prime small/blend pass 12+ hours each
Linx 20 runs 28326/6144mb

Prime temps 50sys, 55cpu, 61NB, Linx up a few degrees more

The NB is fairly high, is this ok, or should I take it off and put some AS5 on it?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dirk1* 
Just finished my last stress test.

1090T/UD5
CPU: x19 3800 at 1.35v (I wanted this speed at the lowest volts i could do)
NB: x13 2600 at 1.17v, Cpu NB vid + .50
Mem: 8gigs Gskill Pi 1600 6-8-6-24 1.6v

Prime small/blend pass 12+ hours each
Linx 20 runs 28326/6144mb

Prime temps 50sys, 55cpu, 61NB, Linx up a few degrees more

The NB is fairly high, is this ok, or should I take it off and put some AS5 on it?

Have you tried just be using the 20x multiplier and upping the vcore a little?


----------



## Dirk1

I have not tried to do 4000, just 3800 at the lowest volts.


----------



## ChrisB17

I also want to know. AMD's website doesn't show anything.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dirk1* 
I have not tried to do 4000, just 3800 at the lowest volts.

I read you can do 4.0GHz at 1.35v

Quote:

We started overclocking by locking the voltage to stock to see what clock speed we could hit off the bat without touching anything. Frankly, we were utterly surprised to find that we could hit 3.8GHz on stock voltages. An excellent start, we began to wonder how far this chip would go if we could hit 3.8GHz straight away.









Next we bumped the core voltage to 1.35V, and it went all the way up to 4GHz, which is absolutely incredible.
http://www.pureoverclock.com/review.php?id=966&page=5


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I'll bet dollars to doughnuts it's the OCZ AMD BE memory...

I had the same issue:

By lowering the frequency to 1066MHz I was able to do this: 
But I'm getting far better results from the Mushkin I replaced it with.

I'll be comparing them both tonight and/or sometime over the weekend but, I think I'm just going through the motions. If you read the NewEgg reviews on that memory they are fairly dismal so, I don't expect much. I have no doubt the I'll RMA the OCZ memory in the end.


I just read on the OCZ forums that CPU NB VID Control should be at 1.35 volts. I'm gonna see if that helps.


----------



## Dirk1

Well F me, you've convinced me, Ill bump it up to 4 to see if it is stable, I am so tired of running stress tests lol.

1.35NB is overkill

My total NB v is 1.22 (1.17NB + .05 CPU NB Vid) at 2600 and it is 12h blend and linx max mem 20 run stable


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirk1*


Well F me, you've convinced me, Ill bump it up to 4 to see if it is stable, I am so tired of running stress tests lol.

1.35NB is overkill

My total NB v is 1.22 (1.17NB + .05 CPU NB Vid) at 2600 and it is 12h blend and linx max mem 20 run stable


Yeah, well, OCZ's BE memory is garbage, so that's what some of the tech support guys want me to run my CPU NB VID at (+0.2 for me). It still failed in-place, large FFT's within the first 10 minutes, BTW...


----------



## Dirk1

Well that was easy - 4 bluescreened when prime started, and 3900 failed after 1 min. So it looks like 3800 is the sweet spot for my particular CPu at 1.35v.

Have you tried running mem test for each of your sticks? My first set of mem was giving me a ton of problems, no matter how high i pumped up the NB volts. After testing each Dimm seperatly it was apparent 1 was FUBAR. I RMA'd all 4 sticks and got some better ones - smooth sailing from then on.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirk1*


Well that was easy - 4 bluescreened when prime started, and 3900 failed after 1 min. So it looks like 3800 is the sweet spot for my particular CPu at 1.35v.

Have you tried running mem test for each of your sticks? My first set of mem was giving me a ton of problems, no matter how high i pumped up the NB volts. After testing each Dimm seperatly it was apparent 1 was FUBAR. I RMA'd all 4 sticks and got some better ones - smooth sailing from then on.


I ran Memtest 4.1 with both sticks together and it ran smoothly. Not sure why it's giving me problems in Prime95...


----------



## Dirk1

Hmm, try running each seperatly for a few passes of test 5 - and post what it says your mem bandwith is for each stick: example 5042MB/s.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dirk1* 
Well that was easy - 4 bluescreened when prime started, and 3900 failed after 1 min. So it looks like 3800 is the sweet spot for my particular CPu at 1.35v.

Was everything else at stock settings? NB etc


----------



## Dirk1

No I had left all my other settings alone, I was only running small prime. Regardless I think Im done messing with things for the moment. I have no particular urge to bump it up any higher.

One thing that I have noticed since I updated the bios is that C&Q is really buggy now. Sometimes is stays in the p1 state no matter what. At one point it was stuck in the P4 state. The decrease in voltage in the p1 state is also a lot less than before the bios update. I downloaded the updated PhenomMsrTweaker, diabled C&Q in bios and set a custom plan - seems to be working much better now.

I wonder how low I can set the voltage when its at 805mhz, currently at 1.2v


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirk1*


Hmm, try running each seperatly for a few passes of test 5 - and post what it says your mem bandwith is for each stick: example 5042MB/s.


I'm running Memtest 4.1 Test 5 with both sticks and I'm getting mem bandwidth of 4907 MB/s.


----------



## Dirk1

Ah well the reason I asked is that when I had 1 bad stick, 3 were running at 5042 and the bad one ran at 4906 (each tested individually). 2600NB, 1600mhz, 7-8-7-24


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirk1*


Ah well the reason I asked is that when I had 1 bad stick, 3 were running at 5042 and the bad one ran at 4906 (each tested individually). 2600NB, 1600mhz, 7-8-7-24


Oh...Well, were you getting errors by running all of them together? I would think that having both of my sticks in together and having no errors means that both sticks are working fine. I don't want to go back into my case if I don't have to...


----------



## ToxicAdam

Anytime I run ram over AMD's DDR3 1333 IMC I get errors..

I just run my ram at 1333 with tight timing which is faster than 1600 at 7-7-7-24.


----------



## Dirk1

Yes I was getting errors, however it did pass a full round or 2 sometimes with all sticks, it was much faster getting errors with individaul sticks.

If your sticks are passing I guess keep bumping up your volts until you hit your comfort lvl. If it is still not stable at that point I would return the mem and get a different set.

The x6 IMC's seems to have adressed that issue, after the bios update i am able to run mine at the rated speed of 6-8-6-24 1600 with no problems. Before the update I could run 7-8-6-24 1600. I have not tested lowering any of the timing past that except for the cas - cas 7 or below = no boot.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirk1*


The x6 IMC's seems to have adressed that issue, after the bios update i am able to run mine at the rated speed of 6-8-6-24 1600 with no problems. Before the update I could run 7-8-6-24 1600. I have not tested lowering any of the timing past that except for the cas - cas 7 or below = no boot.


Yeah, I heard it was better.. but since its still rated at 1333 anything over that is overclocking. I'm sure better ram will help with IMC conflicts.

You're not losing anything running your ram at 1333 with tighter timing. Which has been proven to be faster than 1600.


----------



## Dirk1

I saw that article, it was really interesting. It seems depending on your NB speed 1600 6-6-6 trades blows with the 1333 5-5-5.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirk1*


I saw that article, it was really interesting. It seems depending on your NB speed 1600 6-6-6 trades blows with the 1333 5-5-5.


What article is this?

BTW: been tweaking the memory. 1600 & 9-9-9-24 primed 32 minutes with out issue/ 1600 & 8-9-8-24 primed 32 min without any issue/ 1600 & 7-9-7-24 crashed the instant I started Prime/ (All with rated voltage 1.65v and CPU @ 3.7GHz)

I might try tighter timings @ 1333...


----------



## Dirk1

http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/...ed-faster.html

Great read, I may lower my ram to 1333 and try to get 5-5-5 or better, but I think I will wait awhile before I start messing around again.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
I might try tighter timings @ 1333...

FAIL... I couldn't get the timings tight enough for performance gains with CPU @ 3.7 and everything else left stock.

I'm priming 1600 @ 8-8-8-24 now.


----------



## zenkis15

Can some one tell me what are the temps of the NB, SB and CPU at Idle with a UD5 or UD7, 1090T and H50 with push/Pull. Thanks


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I'm priming 1600 @ 8-8-8-24 now.


Prime95 1hr 7min stable


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


FAIL... I couldn't get the timings tight enough for performance gains with CPU @ 3.7 and everything else left stock.

I'm priming 1600 @ 8-8-8-24 now.


1333 at 6-6-6-24 is faster than 1600 at 7-7-7-24

And you're telling my 1600 at 8-8-8-24 is better?

1600 at cas 8 is pretty loose.


----------



## decimator

Scratch that, these sticks just BOMBED Memtest. over 100 errors after 1 pass of test 8. Don't know how I missed that before. I guess there really are some differences between 2.11 and 4.1...

God, I hate RMA'ing things...


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
1333 at 6-6-6-24 is faster than 1600 at 7-7-7-24

And you're telling my 1600 at 8-8-8-24 is better?

1600 at cas 8 is pretty loose.

1333 @ 6-6-6-24 would not boot

8-8-8-24 @ 1600 _*is*_ better than 7-7-7-24 @ 1333

Graphic taken from this post which is mathematically sound despite being a bit dated.


----------



## ToxicAdam

If you cannot boot at 6-6-6-24 @ 1333 then you have no other choice. Its strange you cant though... I have no experience with Mushkin ram.

Can you do 7-7-7-24 @ 1600. This is considered tight for 1600.

My OCZ can do it but I get errors on stress tests do to AMD IMC on the CPU but real world use its fine.

I tried 6-6-6-18 @ 1333 for a while but its was a little too tight. Got a blue screen once.. so I dialed back a little to 6-6-6-20. so far so good.

I'm also sitting on 8GBs.. which is stressing the CPU memory controller even more.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Scratch that, these sticks just BOMBED Memtest. over 100 errors after 1 pass of test 8. Don't know how I missed that before. I guess there really are some differences between 2.11 and 4.1...

God, I hate RMA'ing things...

My OCZ AMD BE are in the box and ready to ship! They actually did better in the 2nd board. The system crashed and rebooted about 30min into Prime95 but it lasted an hour when I gave it a second run but I decided that since the Mushkin is rock solid at the same settings and is rated higher, that the AMD is on its way. I had more consistent results with the Mushkin and to me that is what matters.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
If you cannot boot at 6-6-6-24 @ 1333 then you have no other choice. Its strange you cant though... I have no experience with Mushkin ram.

Can you do 7-7-7-24 @ 1600. This is considered tight for 1600.

My OCZ can do it but I get errors on stress tests do to AMD IMC on the CPU but real world use its fine.

I tried 6-6-6-18 @ 1333 for a while but its was a little too tight. Got a blue screen once.. so I dialed back a little to 6-6-6-20. so far so good.

I'm also sitting on 8GBs.. which is stressing the CPU memory controller even more.

Which OCZ 1600 are you running? plat, gold, black, amd be, etc. and what are its rated timings?

I haven't been bumping voltage at all yet... just wanted to sort out which of my two sets would work better at stock voltage. I may tinker a bit with voltage now that I have settled on the Mushkin.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I have no experience with Mushkin ram.

I've used it before and have found that while it can be finicky that once its dialed in I've gotten great performance. I used to be a big fan of OCZ but their QC has really taken a dive in the last few months. Their sales dept told me that they have been trying different suppliers and that they are still searching for the right one... I hope they sort it out because they used to have high end memory for mid range price. Now they are hit or miss and unfortunately they have missed allot recently.
Just my $.02


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
Which OCZ 1600 are you running? plat, gold, black, amd be, etc. and what are its rated timings?


http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...atinum_edition

1600MHz DDR3*
CL 7-7-7-24(CAS-TRCD-TRP-TRAS)
Available in 2GB and 4GB D/C kits
Unbuffered
Platinum Z3 XTC Heatspreader**
Lifetime Warranty
1.7 Volts
240Pin DIMM
Part Numbers

2GB (2x1024MB) D/C Kit PN - OCZ3P16002GK
4GB(2x2048MB) D/C Kit PN - OCZ3P16004GK
Special Features

1.8 Volts EVP***


----------



## de Cossatot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


FAIL... I couldn't get the timings tight enough for performance gains with CPU @ 3.7 and everything else left stock.

I'm priming 1600 @ 8-8-8-24 now.


Have you change the volts running into the RAm at all? At your boards stock volts they are a bit low. Also, I have to play around with my NB and NB CPU volts a bit but I got my timings down to 5-6-5-15 at about 1266Mhz. With my ridgebacks I had a hard time upping the speed but its not that big of a hit since AMD is all about timings.

Not sure what your RAM volts is rated at but I'll list some of my settings. Only a couple have changed since the pic I posted.

EDIT: I hope this can help you a bit but just read your other post and looks like you might have gotten some bad sticks. Mushkin support is pretty decent to deal with at least.

Ram: 1.65V
NB Volts: 1.23
HTLink 1.2 at 2079
CPU NB VID Control: 1.35
CPU 1.475


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Scratch that, these sticks just BOMBED Memtest. over 100 errors after 1 pass of test 8. Don't know how I missed that before. I guess there really are some differences between 2.11 and 4.1...

God, I hate RMA'ing things...


Never mind, Memtest was failing because I forgot to set DRAM voltage back to 1.65. It was running at 1.5 because I was doing a little tinkering. Now it's running fine in Memtest. What the hell is going on?









On a side note, F2 BIOS sets default vcore to 1.475?!?!?! Are you serious??? I set it to 1.3, but then I couldn't run Prime95, so I set it up to 1.35, and it runs ok. Still craps out in Prime95 within the first 10 minutes...


----------



## The Duke

It's "Official" fidof650
Keep up the good work on the thread


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Duke* 
It's "Official" fidof650
Keep up the good work on the thread









Congrats fidof650!


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The Duke*


It's "Official" fidof650
Keep up the good work on the thread










Thank you The Duke

And thank you to everyone for your contributions which collectively make this thread a valuable asset...

Keep up the good work!!!


----------



## ChrisB17

I <3 this board. It booted up with 300 bus speed for my 1055t. So if anyone is looking for a board for a cpu with a locked multi. This one is no slouch.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

YAY. just checked if the silent pipe NB cooler of the ud7 can hold itself and looks good so far







( just have to put the mobo on the edge of a box if I don't want the far end of it raising the board







will set it up and run it caseless as soon as I receive my pay and buy an HDD+windows ^^ and maybe a Xaser if I can find one in my city . and maybe other goodies if I can afford it









And it's expensive as hell to buy it in a store ... ( damn me I don't have credit card to order from newegg ...)


----------



## ChrisB17

Can anyone confirm if this board has slight vdroop? I notice a little bit under load at 3.8 ghz.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Can anyone confirm if this board has slight vdroop? I notice a little bit under load at 3.8 ghz.

I haven't noticed it and I've been stress testing different setting all day.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
I've been stress testing different setting all day.

poor motherboard...


----------



## ChrisB17

I set 1.475 in bios and under load its 1.427.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
I set 1.475 in bios and under load its 1.427.

Is Turbo-Boost on or off?


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Is Turbo-Boost on or off?

off


----------



## ryman546

still no bios update for ud7...??? but one for ud5..what the crap.


----------



## fidof650

I updated the BIOS to F2 and then ran this test.
This is stable = 12hrs+ Prime95
I'll need to work on cooling next, the HTPC case isn't the best for cooling while stress testing but it stays well within acceptable levels while gaming or any other real world applications so, no emergency. With the cover on it maxed out at 63c but dropped to around 55c-56c with the lid off and being used as a fan







It was also fairly warm in here today, 85f or so. I'll list more specific BIOS settings later.
This will be my 24/7 setup for now.


----------



## de Cossatot

This is my setup right now on 24/7. Lovin it. Fold all day while gaming.


----------



## Cobain325

In.

Didn't do much stability testing, just a few benches, some short 10min IBT and P95 runs and a few hours of dirt2/bf bc2.

Anyone know what the deal is with the (un)precisionOV that these boards claim to have?
My vcore can only go up in 0.0250v jumps, kinda wasteful compared to my previous intel boards.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
In.

Didn't do much stability testing, just a few benches, some short 10min IBT and P95 runs and a few hours of dirt2/bf bc2.

Anyone know what the deal is with the (un)precisionOV that these boards claim to have?
My vcore can only go up in 0.0250v jumps, kinda wasteful compared to my previous intel boards.

are you running into the problem of having the core voltage still dropping when not under load? I have amd cool and quiet and turbo core off but still have this problem.


----------



## ChrisB17

Ok here is my 24/7 settings. 4.0 ghz was stable. But man was it getting toasty. So I lowered the vcore and decided to go with a higher NB and Ram clock.


----------



## Chrono Detector

A new F2 BIOS for UD7 has been released and its live at Gigabyte's website:

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/M...S&FileID=16043


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chrono Detector* 
A new F2 BIOS for UD7 has been released and its live at Gigabyte's website:

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/M...S&FileID=16043


There you go, ryman546









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
still no bios update for ud7...??? but one for ud5..what the crap.


----------



## Abovethelaw

Greetings. I got this mobo delivered last night. So far, everything's going well except there are times when during POST, I can't get into the BIOS because my key presses are not being read. As Windows 7 loads I see the numlock light flash once on and off which indicates that it's now active, i.e. the system reads my keystrokes at the login screen but often not beforehand. If I unplug the keyboard and plug it in quickly during POST, it works.

Have any of you experienced this before?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tinate* 
Greetings. I got this mobo delivered last night. So far, everything's going well except there are times when during POST, I can't get into the BIOS because my key presses are not being read. As Windows 7 loads I see the numlock light flash once on and off which indicates that it's now active, i.e. the system reads my keystrokes at the login screen but often not beforehand. If I unplug the keyboard and plug it in quickly during POST, it works.

Have any of you experienced this before?

Is your keyboard attached via USB or PS/2?

I have found that a keyboard attached to the PS/2 port is far more reliable for getting into BIOS on every motherboard I have ever owned (that's a lot!).

On my 890FXA-UD5 I have successfully "deleted" into BIOS with a USB keyboard but, not until after I had loaded the drivers from the OEM disk.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
There you go, ryman546









OMG MY HEROOOOOOOOOOOESSSSSSSSSSSS


----------



## fidof650

I'd like to compile a list of Memory that works well on this board and a list of memory that does not.
Please, post about your memory experience... Don't forget!?!?
I will post the results with links on P1 with cumulative score and # of -/+ recommendations.

Format as below and/or post a link.

Brand:
Model Name:
Model #:
Rated Speed:
Rated Timings:
Rated Voltage:
Recommend: (Yes/No)
Your Comments:
Score: (1 - 10)
1 = It killed my dog, burned down my house and ran off with my wife... Might make a good shim for that shaky kitchen table;
10 = Fall to your knees and give thanks for divine hardware... NOW you ingrate!

Thanks!


----------



## fidof650

*OCZ AMD Black Edition 4GB (2x2GB)*
OCZ3BE1600C8LV4GK
1600Mhz (PC3 12800)
8-8-8-24
1.65v
Recommend: -1
Score: 3
Comments: Unstable at OEM ratings

*Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 4GB (2x2GB)*
996782
1600Mhz (PC3 12800)
7-9-7-24
1.65v
Recomend: +1
Score: 8
Comments: Stable at OEM ratings


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
Is your keyboard attached via USB or PS/2?

I have found that a keyboard attached to the PS/2 port is far more reliable for getting into BIOS on every motherboard I have ever owned (that's a lot!).

On my 890FXA-UD5 I have successfully "deleted" into BIOS with a USB keyboard but, not until after I had loaded the drivers from the OEM disk.

You experience these troubles even after installing the USB drivers? That's my problem. I've never noticed this before with other mobo's..


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tinate* 
You experience these troubles even after installing the USB drivers? That's my problem. I've never noticed this before with other mobo's..

I haven't noticed it happening but, I will test it specifically tonight after work.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

just got this board and installed it in my case..havent powered it on yet...im coming from an ma790x ud4p gigabyte board, and i was reading the manual for the 890fx, and thers a CPU PLL voltage???

What is that used for, and do you have to touch it to overclock your pc? (i will be mating this board with a phenom II x4 965 c3 stepping)


----------



## saiyanzzrage

also, i am going to be using an H50 push/pull with 2 gentle typhoons

I was thinking of using a 3pin y splitter and run both gentle typhoons to the cpu fan header on the board...any risk of frying the board doing this?


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
just got this board and installed it in my case..havent powered it on yet...im coming from an ma790x ud4p gigabyte board, and i was reading the manual for the 890fx, and thers a CPU PLL voltage???

What is that used for, and do you have to touch it to overclock your pc? (i will be mating this board with a phenom II x4 965 c3 stepping)

I wouldn't touch the PLL voltage.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tinate* 
I wouldn't touch the PLL voltage.

thanks!


----------



## Cobain325

Can confirm this RAM is working well, in the process of testing it at 6-7-6-21 today and ill let you know how it goes.

*Brand:* G.Skill
*Model Name:* Ripjaws
*Model #:* F3-12800CL7D-4GBRH
*Rated Speed:* DDR3-1600 (PC-12800)
*Rated Timings:* 7-7-7-24
*Rated Voltage:* 1.6v
*Recommend:* Yes
*Price:* $149 USD
*Your Comments:* Zero trouble getting it to run at its rated speed/timings. Worked first try.

CPU-Z showing 6-7-6-21 progress.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
Can confirm this RAM is working well, in the process of testing it at 6-7-6-21 today and ill let you know how it goes.

*Brand:* G.Skill
*Model Name:* Ripjaws
*Model #:* F3-12800CL7D-4GBRH
*Rated Speed:* DDR3-1600 (PC-12800)
*Rated Timings:* 7-7-7-24
*Rated Voltage:* 1.6v
*Recommend:* Yes
*Price:* $149 USD
*Your Comments:* Zero trouble getting it to run at its rated speed/timings. Worked first try.

CPU-Z showing 6-7-6-21 progress.

I picked up a set of g. skill pi ddr3 1600 for this board, which runs at 6-8-6-24 @ 1.6..i was actually looking at the cas 7 ripjaws too, but went with the pi..

is 6-8-6-24 better/worse than 7-7-7-24? or will the difference be negligible?


----------



## Cobain325

I wouldn't be able to say. I can't really notice a difference between 7-7-7-24 and 6-7-6-21 so probably negligible. May be noticeable in benches etc.
I was looking at the Pi series ones, had a ddr2 1066 Pi kit and it was great. But the DDR3 1600 ones are higher volts and more expensive.


----------



## ryman546

is there a guide somewhere on how to update this board?

or is the way the manual says to do it safe?


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
is there a guide somewhere on how to update this board?

or is the way the manual says to do it safe?

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/FileList/...ech_a_bios.htm

That should cover everything.


----------



## ryman546

dont think i want to do it that way. Definately a effective way to brick the board or lose primary bios.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
dont think i want to do it that way. Definately a effective way to brick the board or lose primary bios.

That's the way I done it. Its simple and easy.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
is there a guide somewhere on how to update this board?

or is the way the manual says to do it safe?

I followed the instructions in the manual and had no issue.


----------



## ryman546

yah i just used the utility..just said f*** it. now thats done...i have to figure out wth is going on with my SSD. thanks all.


----------



## de Cossatot

Just saw the front page. My stable was on a 8+ hourish prime not on folding +gaming. But I do Fold and game all the time with my CPU. If I didn't those lonely cores would want to sit idle.

Just read up on the Ram timings so I will post mine.

Brand: Mushkin
Model Name: Mushkin Enhanced Ridgeback 4GB (2 x 2GB)
Model #: 996826
Rated Speed: 1600Mhz
Rated Timings: 6-8-6-24
Rated Voltage: 1.65
Recommend: YES
Your Comments: Love this RAM. Had a hard time running it at the rated speeds but I really bought it to down clock and tighten the timings as much as I could. I ended up with 5-6-5-15 @1266Mhz. Runs nice and cool at the rated voltage.

Score: 9


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
*OCZ AMD Black Edition 4GB (2x2GB)*
OCZ3BE1600C8LV4GK
1600Mhz (PC3 12800)
8-8-8-24
1.65v
Recommend: -1
Score: 3
Comments: Unstable at OEM ratings

Haha, yeah, these sticks don't play well with this board. I originally thought that the sticks were borked, but after running Memtest for a while and not seeing any errors while seeing a ton of errors in Prime95, I came to the conclusion that the board just doesn't play well with the memory. And lo and behold, these sticks are not on Gigabyte's memory support list. I think the Black Edition profiles don't play well with the new 890FX chipset (or the new 6-core CPU's). Now I feel like an idiot for not checking that list before I bought the RAM







. Returning the RAM to Newegg and once I get my refund, I'll see which sticks (that are on that damn list) I should buy.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
I followed the instructions in the manual and had no issue.

I can confirm this as well. No problems flashing with Q-Flash.


----------



## ryman546

ok after the flash now i'm getting a entirely new problem. With cool and quiet turned and and amd c1e support. If i set cpu vcore to 1.4 boot into windows. run prime95. pull up cpu hardware and cpu-z. both read like 1.22 volts. This crap is starting to piss me off.

but when i'm just running through windows. the voltage goes up to 1.397 sometimes. but under prime95 and occt load it never breaks 1.22 volts.

need some help or i got to start RMA'ing everything which i dont want to do.


----------



## fidof650

I've got a new low profile CPU cooler coming to help with the temp.

Noctua NH-C12P SE14 140mm SSO CPU Cooler








I'd like to be running cooler than this for my baseline setup. I considered liquid cooling but it's tough with the limited space in this HTPC case. I still might try to rig something up but, for now this seems to be a good move.
I ran this after the F2 update.


----------



## de Cossatot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
ok after the flash now i'm getting a entirely new problem. With cool and quiet turned and and amd c1e support. If i set cpu vcore to 1.4 boot into windows. run prime95. pull up cpu hardware and cpu-z. both read like 1.22 volts. This crap is starting to piss me off.

but when i'm just running through windows. the voltage goes up to 1.397 sometimes. but under prime95 and occt load it never breaks 1.22 volts.

need some help or i got to start RMA'ing everything which i dont want to do.

I see this problem in CPU-Z also but when I prime it bumps up to 1.51ish and stays there. Another thing I noticed though is if I run Coretemp it shows all my cores with speed+load. My volts also drop a bit sometims when the Mhz drops but it only drops on the first core. I have Everything disabled also. Not sure if it is the chip or MB for me but when I max the loads its there with full volts.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
ok after the flash now i'm getting a entirely new problem. With cool and quiet turned and and amd c1e support. If i set cpu vcore to 1.4 boot into windows. run prime95. pull up cpu hardware and cpu-z. both read like 1.22 volts. This crap is starting to piss me off.

but when i'm just running through windows. the voltage goes up to 1.397 sometimes. but under prime95 and occt load it never breaks 1.22 volts.

need some help or i got to start RMA'ing everything which i dont want to do.

Have you got Thermal Control turned off in the PC Health status section of bios? If not, then that's probably why.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
I've got a new low profile CPU cooler coming to help with the temp.

Noctua NH-C12P SE14 140mm SSO CPU Cooler








I'd like to be running cooler than this for my baseline setup. I considered liquid cooling but it's tough with the limited space in this HTPC case. I still might try to rig something up but, for now this seems to be a good move.
I ran this after the F2 update.









Why does it show your CPU volts at 3.15v max?


----------



## ryman546

yah i got thermal control turned off. i have cool and quiet turned off and amd c1e support turned off.

I dont get why i'm having so much trouble. IF i set a core voltage to 1.4 it should stay at 1.4 constantly.

cobain if you go into bios. go to cpu vcore. normal voltage should be 1.47. if u down it to 1.4. then go into windows. does the voltage fluctuate? or does it stay constant 1.4 volts.


----------



## ryman546

lol now i cant get imageshack to post a screenshot.


----------



## popncali

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/FileList/...ech_a_bios.htm

That should cover everything.

Do not used this method of flashing unless you want to brick your motherboard and turn it into paper weight! If you use this method of flashing your motherboard and something goes wrong, dual bio won't save you.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *popncali* 
Do not used this method of flashing unless you want to brick your motherboard and turn it into paper weight! If you used this method of flashing your motherboard and something goes wrong, dual bio won't save you.










I have always used this method and I've never bricked a motherboard before.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
And lo and behold, these sticks are not on Gigabyte's memory support list.

Yes but these are and are not only triple channel but are "Designed specifically for the Intel X58 chipset / Core i7" so I don't trust the list as far as I can through it. This is why I want to make our own list.


----------



## ryman546

can u see the problem. omg


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
yah i got thermal control turned off. i have cool and quiet turned off and amd c1e support turned off.

I dont get why i'm having so much trouble. IF i set a core voltage to 1.4 it should stay at 1.4 constantly.

cobain if you go into bios. go to cpu vcore. normal voltage should be 1.47. if u down it to 1.4. then go into windows. does the voltage fluctuate? or does it stay constant 1.4 volts.











Try not using 1.4v maybe, I sometimes get my first cores volts/multi stuck at 4x but never every core.

Edit, BTW thats with 1.45v set in bios. Cant boot @ 4Ghz with 1.4v.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 


can u see the problem. omg

No, I can't see why.


----------



## ryman546

i'm at 100% load and the core voltage is 1.3...

tried it at 1.47 volts as well. Starting to think my chip got fried in the last mobo and thats why i'm having all these massive volt problems.

urs seems to stay at 1.45 volts while my goes all the way to 1.2 and back to 1.47


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
yah i got thermal control turned off. i have cool and quiet turned off and amd c1e support turned off.

I dont get why i'm having so much trouble. IF i set a core voltage to 1.4 it should stay at 1.4 constantly.

cobain if you go into bios. go to cpu vcore. normal voltage should be 1.47. if u down it to 1.4. then go into windows. does the voltage fluctuate? or does it stay constant 1.4 volts.

Does it have something to do with Turbo-Boost? I know that it automatically bumps voltage up when it speeds up the cores.


----------



## popncali

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 








I have always used this method and I've never bricked a motherboard before.

here you go
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/27...ide-read-first

scroll down until you see bio flashing

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
i'm at 100% load and the core voltage is 1.3...

tried it at 1.47 volts as well. Starting to think my chip got fried in the last mobo and thats why i'm having all these massive volt problems.

urs seems to stay at 1.45 volts while my goes all the way to 1.2 and back to 1.47

Try disabling cstate and turbo boost


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Does it have something to do with Turbo-Boost? I know that it automatically bumps voltage up when it speeds up the cores.


turbo boost is turned off. and the voltage actually goes way down under load....or even idle it sits at 1.3. if cobains constantly stays at 1.43 and hes got the same board then something is wrong somewhere.

edit. WHERE IS turbo boost to make sure i'm doing this correct. Whats the name for it in ud7 bios.


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*




can u see the problem. omg


my VID in Core Temp has always read 1.425V with 3 different mobo's and this 1055t chip. I wonder why yours reads 1.3V..


----------



## ryman546

brb while i go shoot myself.

I hereby announce my retirement from overclock for my stupidity of a higher level.

When i flashed the bios i forgot there was a CPu performance boost on top of the other settings i needed to disable. I just disabled some other performance boost setting and cool and quiet.

just for the next guy who has this problem. Even if u manually set voltage and clock the bios will still screw with voltage if u have performance boost.

I'm a idiot. Enjoy.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *popncali*


here you go
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/27...ide-read-first

scroll down until you see bio flashing


News to me, I've used it on half a dozen mobos, multiple times and I'll probably continue to use it. Although, I'd never update from the GB servers.
Also, Who'se to say the power wont go out too, Probably the same chances.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


turbo boost is turned off. and the voltage actually goes way down under load....or even idle it sits at 1.3. if cobains constantly stays at 1.43 and hes got the same board then something is wrong somewhere.

edit. WHERE IS turbo boost to make sure i'm doing this correct. Whats the name for it in ud7 bios.


Turbo Core Control or something similar to that, in the Motherboard intelligent tweaker section.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Turbo Core Control or something similar to that, in the Motherboard intelligent tweaker section.


its cpu performance boost or something like that. see my above post.

R.I.P ryman546 hahah

i left cpu core control alone as thats just for disabling cores. now that i got voltage fixed should i also set this to manual? all cores enabled?


----------



## Cobain325

Ah, all I originally saw was 
Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*
















brb while i go shoot myself.


So your all sorted now? lol


----------



## ryman546

yes. thanks a bunch for all the help. now i'm off to work on how to do a fresh install on a ssd with ahci enabled. Bios and everything just skips the cdrom drive and boots right into windows. Even if i do boot menu and select cdrom it still boots into windows. *having problems with ssd performance*


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


yes. thanks a bunch for all the help. now i'm off to work on how to do a fresh install on a ssd with ahci enabled. Bios and everything just skips the cdrom drive and boots right into windows. Even if i do boot menu and select cdrom it still boots into windows. *having problems with ssd performance*


If your still having problems after an hour, Ill go try recreate the problem in my bios. Gonna play some bc2 for now though.


----------



## ChrisB17

OK I have come accross my first real problem.

When I put my HDD in AHCI mode (Clean install etc) it takes for ever to boot into windows. I googled it and it seems its a common issue with gigabyte boards? How do I fix it? Can I fix it?


----------



## Chrono Detector

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1207622

Look at the RAM speed, I managed to overclock my G.Skill 1600Mhz to 1920Mhz







Also, the frequency is meant to be at 4080Mhz. and it weirdly validated it at 3850Mhz.

Will try if I can push higher.

And I thought this board could do 1866Mhz max only, but I guess I hit the jackpot.


----------



## ToxicAdam

What's that smell?... somethings burning lol

Nice work, Chrono Detector


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chrono Detector*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1207622

Look at the RAM speed, I managed to overclock my G.Skill 1600Mhz to 1920Mhz







Also, the frequency is meant to be at 4080Mhz. and it weirdly validated it at 3850Mhz.

Will try if I can push higher.

And I thought this board could do 1866Mhz max only, but I guess I hit the jackpot.


A cloud of blue smoke slowly rises over Australia...


----------



## raisethe3

Very nice! Have you tested it for stability? Good luck.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chrono Detector* 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1207622

Look at the RAM speed, I managed to overclock my G.Skill 1600Mhz to 1920Mhz







Also, the frequency is meant to be at 4080Mhz. and it weirdly validated it at 3850Mhz.

Will try if I can push higher.

And I thought this board could do 1866Mhz max only, but I guess I hit the jackpot.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

cant wait to get my rig wired tonight so i can start playing with this board!!


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


A cloud of blue smoke slowly rises over Australia...










one already rose over florida


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


one already rose over florida










What happened?


----------



## Cobain325

Anyone know (if)when we'll get some proper voltage options in bios for these? Overclocking is kinda dumb when you can only overvolt in +0.025v increments. Although, I have a feeling these increments are given by the cpu? Hope not.


----------



## ryman546

what are safe temps for tpin0/tpin1/tpin2. Just started my overclocking run on the ud7 dont want it to blow up. Cobain whats ur voltage at for 4.26 ghz..nb etc.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


What happened?










my msi 790fx blew up.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


what are safe temps for tpin0/tpin1/tpin2. Just started my overclocking run on the ud7 dont want it to blow up. Cobain whats ur voltage at for 4.26 ghz..nb etc.


I'll go look now. I know the CPU was at 1.55v for it. Only using 4Ghz @ 1.425v cpu 1.3v NB VID and everything else on normal, 2hours P95 stable. Until I can see how much watts this thing is sucking up when its higher.

EDIT, 1.55v CPU, 1.35 NB VID, 1.28v NB, 1.32v HT. I think I remembered the NB/HT volts right, they're 2 notches into the red anyways. Its prolly overdoing, I don't know/care so long as it works. lol


----------



## ryman546

i'm doing a 2 hour occt run right now. CPU is around 40 degrees celcius. tpin 0 - 38 degrees tpin 1 - 48 degrees tpin 2 - 55 degrees.

not sure how safe these temps are.


----------



## Cobain325

Mine go about the same after like 20mins of stressing. Anyone know what TMPIN0 and TMPIN2 actually are?


----------



## ryman546

tmpin the cpu? if so then northbridge is probably the tmpin2??


----------



## saiyanzzrage

finally got my rig up and running with this board and a phII 965 c3

i have the g skill pi ddr3 1600 other people are using with this board, and the stock settings are supposed to be 6-8-6-24 @ 1.6v...

if i set it to that (everything else auto) i cant get into windows (get a overclock message failure from the board)

i tried 1t and 2t and the same thing happens...

i have it set to 7-7-7-24-1t @ 1.6v right now and it seems to be ok..

im still on the f1 bios, would the f2 bios help me at all?

should I RMA the sticks? ive seen at least 2 othet people on this thread have no issues with 6-8-6-24....


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
finally got my rig up and running with this board and a phII 965 c3

i have the g skill pi ddr3 1600 other people are using with this board, and the stock settings are supposed to be 6-8-6-24 @ 1.6v...

if i set it to that (everything else auto) i cant get into windows (get a overclock message failure from the board)

i tried 1t and 2t and the same thing happens...

i have it set to 7-7-7-24-1t @ 1.6v right now and it seems to be ok..

im still on the f1 bios, would the f2 bios help me at all?

should I RMA the sticks? ive seen at least 2 othet people on this thread have no issues with 6-8-6-24....









Try upping the NB VID a bit, I don't seem to be able to boot with these timings without doing it.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
my msi 790fx blew up.

there's your problem


----------



## ryman546

lol. just had the weirdest thing happen.....OCCT froze 1 hour and 20 minutes into a stress test...never had that happen before.

also ram timings...should they be 1T or 2t?


----------



## Cobain325

Not sure, I don't see the point in having 2T DDR3 so I just set 1T.
I'd restart the stress test and try again before you change anything.


----------



## ryman546

It was really weird. Usually if the CPU voltage isn't high enough I'll get BSOD. If the ram isn't right I'll get a error. The timer just froze.. My processor etc was still under full load though.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


It was really weird. Usually if the CPU voltage isn't high enough I'll get BSOD. If the ram isn't right I'll get a error. The timer just froze.. My processor etc was still under full load though.


I had it happen to me. I bumped the CPU NB voltage up and it fixed the issue. Now I can run prime and IBT for 18+ hours.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


my msi 790fx blew up.


Terrorists?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Try upping the NB VID a bit, I don't seem to be able to boot with these timings without doing it.


thanks for the reply, il give that a shot!


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
Terrorists?

terrifying terroists.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
I had it happen to me. I bumped the CPU NB voltage up and it fixed the issue. Now I can run prime and IBT for 18+ hours.









on gigabyte boards the NB voltage is the only one right? I dont see a cpu nb....just a cpu nb vid.

should i got 1.21 on northbridge?

man id be sketched to run 18+ hours of anything with the way boards have been popping.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
on gigabyte boards the NB voltage is the only one right? I dont see a cpu nb....just a cpu nb vid.

should i got 1.21 on northbridge?

no, theres 2..theres the NB voltage and then the cpu nb vid

you want to increase the cpu nb vid (the on cpu memory controller voltage)


----------



## fidof650

On my sig. rig the only voltages I've changed are:

CPU NB VID @ 1.3v

Memory at 1.65v (the rated voltage but must be set manually)

This has been rock solid!


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


On my sig. rig the only voltages I've changed are:

CPU NB VID @ 1.3v

Memory at 1.65v (the rated voltage but must be set manually)

This has been rock solid!


cool...thats what i had to do on my ma790x ud4p board as well

what NB frequency are you at fido (out of curiosity bc im gonna start oc'ing my 965 c3 tonight on this board)


----------



## ryman546

going to get my nb frequency to 2700. will try 1.2 volts first.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


what NB frequency are you at fido (out of curiosity bc im gonna start oc'ing my 965 c3 tonight on this board)


I left it at 2000 for now until I work out a better cooling solution. 
(I'm running an HTPC case with limited air flow)

I have run it at 2200 and 2400 without issue while testing out other settings

My new CPU cooler should be here today and reportedly also aids in cooling the NB and Memory due to its 140mm down facing fan.

We'll see.

Keep us posted on your progress!


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I left it at 2000 for now until I work out a better cooling solution. 
(I'm running an HTPC case with limited air flow)

I have run it at 2200 and 2400 without issue while testing out other settings

My new CPU cooler should be here today and reportedly also aids in cooling the NB and Memory due to its 140mm down facing fan.

We'll see.

Keep us posted on your progress!


will do









have we confirmed what TMPIN is for mobo temps for this board in HWmonitor?

Im worried now that i have the H50 that i dont have any blow by cooling on my mobo (used to have air cooling Xiggy dark knight) so i want to make sure my board doesnt get too toasty


----------



## ryman546

just did a 2 hour occt run with 2600 frequency and 4.0 ghz at 1.42 volts and 1.2 nb


----------



## ryman546

has anyone run their 1090t overnight on air?


----------



## Lazorbeam

EDIT: If you're using anything above DDR3 1600, you have to use DIMM3 and DIMM4 (as per http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList...890fxa-ud5.pdf). This wouldn't affect an overclock on 1600 RAM, would it?

----

Add me to the club.

My board came in yesterday (along with the rest of my system). I was up til 3am assembling everything. Right now I have the OS installed but no testing done whatsoever. Not to mention I've got cables dangling all over the place, and a SSD hanging out the side of my Antec 900. The build:

Antec 900
Antec Truepower 650W Modular
G.Skill 2x2GB ECO 1600DDR3
XFX Radeon HD 5770
Intel X-25 80GB SSD
AMD X6 1055t
CoolIt Eco
Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5

Regardless, here are my thoughts on the board/build so far:

- POST on the first try.
- Board is sturdy and well-built.
- Onboard blue LEDs look awesome.
- Mounting the CoolIt Eco was a piece of cake.
- Recognized my 1055t immediately.
- HD Audio / AC97 is in an akward spot.
- Sata cables are hard to insert with the Antec 900.
- Cannot access BIOS with USB keyboard??? TAB for "view post" is working, however. Will attempt with a PS2 keyboard later.

For those of you asking about Asus' hot NBs... I've burned my finger on my old P5N-T Deluxe (piece of garbage).

ALSO, the F2 link on the front page is no longer working. Here's an alternate link: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/...d=3417&dl=1#dl

We also need to know what tempin0, 1, 2 mean. Multiple posters have come up with differing views...

Will keep posted!


----------



## ChrisB17

Anyone notice gigabytes new site layout? It looks great.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Anyone notice gigabytes new site layout? It looks great.


yeah just didm looks aweosme


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam*


EDIT: If you're using anything above DDR3 1600, you have to use DIMM3 and DIMM4 (as per http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList...890fxa-ud5.pdf). This wouldn't affect an overclock on 1600 RAM, would it?

----

Add me to the club.

My board came in yesterday (along with the rest of my system). I was up til 3am assembling everything. Right now I have the OS installed but no testing done whatsoever. Not to mention I've got cables dangling all over the place, and a SSD hanging out the side of my Antec 900. The build:

Antec 900
Antec Truepower 650W Modular
G.Skill 2x2GB ECO 1600DDR3
XFX Radeon HD 5770
Intel X-25 80GB SSD
AMD X6 1055t
CoolIt Eco
Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5

Regardless, here are my thoughts on the board/build so far:

- POST on the first try.
- Board is sturdy and well-built.
- Onboard blue LEDs look awesome.
- Mounting the CoolIt Eco was a piece of cake.
- Recognized my 1055t immediately.
- HD Audio / AC97 is in an akward spot.
- Sata cables are hard to insert with the Antec 900.
- Cannot access BIOS with USB keyboard??? TAB for "view post" is working, however. Will attempt with a PS2 keyboard later.

For those of you asking about Asus' hot NBs... I've burned my finger on my old P5N-T Deluxe (piece of garbage).

ALSO, the F2 link on the front page is no longer working. Here's an alternate link: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/...d=3417&dl=1#dl

We also need to know what tempin0, 1, 2 mean. Multiple posters have come up with differing views...

Will keep posted!


agreed about the sata ports with an antec 900/902, a real pita for sure


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


yeah just didm looks aweosme


Its WAY faster now and much easier to navigate.







To gigabyte.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam*


Add me to the club.

- Cannot access BIOS with USB keyboard??? TAB for "view post" is working, however. Will attempt with a PS2 keyboard later.

ALSO, the F2 link on the front page is no longer working. Here's an alternate link: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/...d=3417&dl=1#dl

We also need to know what tempin0, 1, 2 mean. Multiple posters have come up with differing views...

Will keep posted!


Will add you

Will fix P1

My USB keyboard let me into BIOS just this morning.... Have you installed the Gigabyte drivers disk yet?

I'll make the changes later tonight I have meetings until then....
Welcome aboard!!!


----------



## saiyanzzrage

speaking of drivers, all i installed was the ethernet and usb3.0 drivers...i dont need antyhing else do i?


----------



## raisethe3

Yeah and loads a bit quicker too. Very nice.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


Anyone notice gigabytes new site layout? It looks great.


----------



## decimator

I think that once I get my refund back from Newegg for returning these POS OCZ sticks, I'm gonna get some of those G.Skill Pi's that all you guys are raving about. They look pretty sweet.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I think that once I get my refund back from Newegg for returning these POS OCZ sticks, I'm gonna get some of those G.Skill Pi's that all you guys are raving about. They look pretty sweet.

i love mine, im memtesting them at stock 6-8-6-24-1t timings right now...i bet they can even be tightened









ill try that once i get my processor overclocked

i recommend them highly


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam*


EDIT: If you're using anything above DDR3 1600, you have to use DIMM3 and DIMM4 (as per http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList...890fxa-ud5.pdf). This wouldn't affect an overclock on 1600 RAM, would it?

----

Add me to the club.

My board came in yesterday (along with the rest of my system). I was up til 3am assembling everything. Right now I have the OS installed but no testing done whatsoever. Not to mention I've got cables dangling all over the place, and a SSD hanging out the side of my Antec 900. The build:

Antec 900
Antec Truepower 650W Modular
G.Skill 2x2GB ECO 1600DDR3
XFX Radeon HD 5770
Intel X-25 80GB SSD
AMD X6 1055t
CoolIt Eco
Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5

Regardless, here are my thoughts on the board/build so far:

- POST on the first try.
- Board is sturdy and well-built.
- Onboard blue LEDs look awesome.
- Mounting the CoolIt Eco was a piece of cake.
- Recognized my 1055t immediately.
- HD Audio / AC97 is in an akward spot.
- Sata cables are hard to insert with the Antec 900.
- Cannot access BIOS with USB keyboard??? TAB for "view post" is working, however. Will attempt with a PS2 keyboard later.

For those of you asking about Asus' hot NBs... I've burned my finger on my old P5N-T Deluxe (piece of garbage).

ALSO, the F2 link on the front page is no longer working. Here's an alternate link: http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/...d=3417&dl=1#dl

We also need to know what tempin0, 1, 2 mean. Multiple posters have come up with differing views...

Will keep posted!


What happens if you put RAM in DIMM slots 1 and 2? I had my RAM in there at first and got memtest errors. I have them in 3/4 now 10 hours p95 stable and 8 hours memtest stable. I was going to RMA the board...


----------



## raisethe3

That's strange, but yeah, RMA that board.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tinate*


What happens if you put RAM in DIMM slots 1 and 2? I had my RAM in there at first and got memtest errors. I have them in 3/4 now 10 hours p95 stable and 8 hours memtest stable. I was going to RMA the board...


----------



## fidof650

F2 BIOS links updated, the rest of the links will be fixed later today.


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raisethe3*


That's strange, but yeah, RMA that board.


I'm not privy to how the IMC works inside the CPU, but could it be that? What if, and this is just my EE in me coming out, the IMC circuit inside the CPU was faulty such that the DIMM slots that correspond to it appear faulty. I wonder if that's possible?


----------



## Chrono Detector

Well, I updated the BIOS to F2 on my UD7 and I've noticed some changes:

I could now overclock my 1090T to a max of 4500Mhz, before I couldn't
CPU temperatures seem to be more accurate on Core Temp, before it was reading way lower temps which seemed off


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chrono Detector*


Well, I updated the BIOS to F2 on my UD7 and I've noticed some changes:

I could now overclock my 1090T to a max of 4500Mhz, before I couldn't
CPU temperatures seem to be more accurate on Core Temp, before it was reading way lower temps which seemed off


What sort of volts for that? I think I may of been able to get 4Ghz with less volts after F2 but mobo/cpu/ram are all too new for me to want to push any more volts in to go higher.


----------



## Chrono Detector

When I was on F1 I couldn't get to 4400Mhz, even though I tried 1.5V+ and higher, it would refuse to boot into Windows, but yes it can POST.

Right now I could do 4400 and 4500Mhz on 1.52V, but on 4600Mhz I couldn't, and trying on 1.6V didn't work either, but I refuse to go over 1.6V.


----------



## soma1509

Now I know I am probably going a little out of whack here, but since I am looking for an upgrade since my 780i board died recently [and would be my 2nd RMA of this board], and since I know SLI Hacks are possible nowadays thanks to the X58 systems, would it actually be possible to do an SLI hack on this board since I know it has Multi-GPU [A.K.A.: Branded "Crossfire"] support?

I know this has worked on other boards from previous generations such as the 790FX or P45 chipsets.

For those not familiar with what I am talking about:
http://www.xdevs.com/e107_plugins/co...php?content.30

If anyone is actually brave enough to experiment on this, that would be awesome and would have me sold on considering this Gigabyte UD5 motherboard as my next upgrade along with a 1090T chip.

Previously I was considering the ASUS C4F, but seeing a bunch of people having Quality Control issues with the Northbridge heatsink not making contact with the Northbridge was a huge turn-off to me.

If anyone has any confirmation or proof of making this SLI-Hack on this Gigabyte UD5 board work, I would greatly appreciate it very much.

But at any rate, this seems like a solid upgrade anyhow. Anyone else having Voltage issues? That seems to be the biggest gripe I have after reading this entire forum.

Major thanks in advance!


----------



## BeepBeep

What sort of H50 fan setup do you have Chrono Detector for those sorts of volts, my temps seem to take a while to even out using push/pull intake


----------



## Lazorbeam

Update time.

Between work (7am-4:30pm) and chores, I have very little time to mess around with my board. But I put in a couple hours yesterday. I still had some cable management to do, so that's now out of the way.

Flashed to F2 BIOS without a hitch. I'm (still) getting strange freezes during the "logo" flash when attempting to access BIOS with a USB keyboard. Really weird.

I'm using this ram. It's supposed to run at 1.35V, but the BIOS won't let me use this exact voltage (whatever, I'll be OC'ing it anyway). Encountered 1 random freeze-up already, but I hadn't set the ram factory timings yet (7-8-7 vs 9-9-9).

I really need to know what tempin0/1/2 are. Core temps @ 100% load peaked at 39C. I don't recall seeing these temps matching tempin0/1/2.


----------



## ryman546

yah i'm worried about tmpin0/1/2 as well. I dont want to do a 8 hour prime95 blend till i see everyone elses.


----------



## Chrono Detector

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
What sort of H50 fan setup do you have Chrono Detector for those sorts of volts, my temps seem to take a while to even out using push/pull intake









I'm using a Zalman CNPS10X Extreme here, and my idle temps are around 20 or less on stock, and load is about 40. Also, my room is quite cool as well.

This new BIOS seems a bit weird, I never got a BSOD before doing 4Ghz without a voltage increase and was able to run 3dMark06/Vantage on F1, but F2, once I booted into Windows, I got a BSOD. Also, after exiting the CMOS after setting everything back to normal, my computer would not POST, it never happened with F1 or either that I did not do enough testing.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
yah i'm worried about tmpin0/1/2 as well. I dont want to do a 8 hour prime95 blend till i see everyone elses.

yeah, i asked that question the other day as well..

update here: i wasnt able to run my ram at stock 6-8-6-24-1t speeds with the F1 bios, but when i updated to F2 i ran without a problem, 3 passes of memtest for 2 and a half hours...


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


yeah, i asked that question the other day as well..

update here: i wasnt able to run my ram at stock 6-8-6-24-1t speeds with the F1 bios, but when i updated to F2 i ran without a problem, 3 passes of memtest for 2 and a half hours...


This is good news, makes me excited to see how far I can push my ram.

How about everyone posts their idle & load tempin0/1/2 temps along with BIOS or CPUHD temps to see if we can discern what is what? It's the first logical step we should take before proceeding. I'm at work right now but I'll see what I can do tonight.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam*


This is good news, makes me excited to see how far I can push my ram.

How about everyone posts their idle & load tempin0/1/2 temps along with BIOS or CPUHD temps to see if we can discern what is what? It's the first logical step we should take before proceeding. I'm at work right now but I'll see what I can do tonight.


great idea, ill post mine when i get home from work tonight as well

how are you liking the eco ram? I was gonna buy it because i saw it was on gigabytes compatability list..and the voltage is really low, making for alot of oc headroom i would think

i will play around with tightning my timings in a bit, i want to get my oc settled first


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


great idea, ill post mine when i get home from work tonight as well

how are you liking the eco ram? I was gonna buy it because i saw it was on gigabytes compatability list..and the voltage is really low, making for alot of oc headroom i would think

i will play around with tightning my timings in a bit, i want to get my oc settled first










Seems like decent ram so far. Keep in mind, the UD5/UD7 will only handle up to 1866. So that's my target. The Asus boards can hit 2000, the MSI goes up to 2133!

I'm actually not that great of an OC'er. Just a nerd / computer junkie.

is it possible to push ram past the mobo's designated limit (1866)?


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam*


Seems like decent ram so far. Keep in mind, the UD5/UD7 will only handle up to 1866. So that's my target. The Asus boards can hit 2000, the MSI goes up to 2133!

I'm actually not that great of an OC'er. Just a nerd / computer junkie.

is it possible to push ram past the mobo's designated limit (1866)?


Ram will pass 1866 easily on this board, just depends on the ram, how well it oc's or what it's default frequency is









Also Heres my temp chart (HWMonitor) for anyone who needs to determine.



From what i gather...

TMPIN0 = Northbridge (Using the bulky heatsink (silent pipe)).. it hovers over my top GPU, when i fire up the fan speed on gpu the temp drops way down.

TMPIN1 = CPU

TMPIN2 = No idea, but the temp goes up quite a fair bit when running any sort of stress test


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam* 
Seems like decent ram so far. Keep in mind, the UD5/UD7 will only handle up to 1866. So that's my target. The Asus boards can hit 2000, the MSI goes up to 2133!

I'm actually not that great of an OC'er. Just a nerd / computer junkie.

is it possible to push ram past the mobo's designated limit (1866)?

im not that great either...i usually stick to multiplier overclocking and leave the fsb at stock ,so my ram will only be running at 1600 anyway

but ill just see if i can tighten the timings at then end and call it a day


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
(image)

How are you getting those CPU temps? Your tempin1 is ambient, there's no way it's your CPU. And your cpu core temps are below ambient. Shouldn't these 2 values match up?

Could tempin0 be your CPU temp? I'm getting ~37C IDLE with a CoolIt Eco.


----------



## BeepBeep

I don't know, the core temps / cpu temps on 1090/1055 always seem to be extremely low, check out other threads for idle readings and such, you'll see them around the same as mine, I've had as low as 7c cores earlier yesterday morning.

Theres only a single sensor for all cores, and the cpu temp is read from the socket, so i'd assume TMP01 is cpu, as it climbs at the same rate as cores when stressing.

--Edit
It's like 8c in this room atm







crappy weather, bout to chuck heatpump on.


----------



## Lazorbeam

Hmm, still seems way too low. My 1055t runs at 37c idle. I've seen a lot of fishy temps in the 1055t thread as well.

Edit: One of those tempin sensors is case temp. Naturally, it will be the lowest temp there. So tempin1 should be your case temp. Imo there's no way your case temp is higher than CPU







.


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam* 
Hmm, still seems way too low. My 1055t runs at 37c idle. I've seen a lot of fishy temps in the 1055t thread as well.

Edit: One of those tempin sensors is case temp. Naturally, it will be the lowest temp there. So tempin1 should be your case temp. Imo there's no way your case temp is higher than CPU







.


Not sure how the case temp can go from low 20s to mid 30s instantly when i start IBT.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

what aout using everest or speedfan and see temps? maybe they will label the temps better so we can differentiate?


----------



## BeepBeep

Checked out everest,

CPU in everest = TMPIN1 in HWMontior
Motherboard in everest = TMPIN0 in HWMonitor


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
Checked out everest,

CPU in everest = TMPIN1 in HWMontior
Motherboard in everest = TMPIN0 in HWMonitor

great, thanks. I guess we have our answer?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

actually, speaking of mobo temps, what is the max for this?

ive always focused on the cpu temps and never really put any thought into the mobo...


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam* 
Hmm, still seems way too low. My 1055t runs at 37c idle. I've seen a lot of fishy temps in the 1055t thread as well.

Edit: One of those tempin sensors is case temp. Naturally, it will be the lowest temp there. So tempin1 should be your case temp. Imo there's no way your case temp is higher than CPU







.

So going by a process of elimination, your saying TMPIN2 is the ambient temp. I sincerely doubt that. Seeing as mine gets over 45c while stress testing, with a room temp of about 15c. At a guess, I'd say:
TMPIN0 = NB
TMPIN1 = CPU
TMPIN2 = Power Phases??? Or something similar.


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
So going by a process of elimination, your saying TMPIN2 is the ambient temp. I sincerely doubt that. Seeing as mine gets over 45c while stress testing, with a room temp of about 15c. At a guess, I'd say:
TMPIN0 = NB
TMPIN1 = CPU
TMPIN2 = Power Phases??? Or something similar.

Take what I said for a grain of salt for now. I was reading other AMD threads and one of the tempins is always a case/system sensor. Maybe this one doesn't have a case sensor.

Brb gonna check BIOS temps and see how it matches up.

EDIT: BIOS reads two temperatures.

System: 33C
CPU: 31C

In comparison to tempins:

tempin0: 33
tempin1: 29
tempin2: 34

So it appears that it would be safe to assume that tempin1 is CPU temp.

On a separate note, I bumped my RAM to stock settings at 200x8 = 1600Mhz. Using 7-8-7-24 timings.

30 seconds into prime95 and a BSOD







. Gonna try and bump up voltage (using 1.41 only).


----------



## ryman546

question just did a pc mark full vantage x64 run and the program stopped working halfway through. Windows etc was fine...Current settings are 1.425 volts on cpu 1.2 on cpu nb and 1.65 on ram with 7-7-7-20 timings. What should i do to get this stable. should i up cpunb to 1.25? On gigabyte boards does the northbridge voltage need to be touched?

going to do another prime 95 run and see if any errors pop up.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
question just did a pc mark full vantage x64 run and the program stopped working halfway through. Current settings are 1.425 volts on cpu 1.2 on cpu nb and 1.65 on ram with 7-7-7-20 timings. What should i do to get this stable. should i up cpunb to 1.25? On gigabyte boards does the northbridge voltage need to be touched?

My NB VC/HT VC are on normal. I'd say up the CPU NB but, I'm not so sure as to how far seeing as your only on 1333mhz ram. I've got mine on 1.3v atm.


----------



## ryman546

yah currently in a prime 95 run at 1.225 cpu-nb 2600 frenquency.

3dmark passed fine. heaven benchmark fine.

occt 2 hours stable.

wonder whats causing it to crash...hmmm


----------



## ryman546

howd u get to 1.408 volts? its either 1.4 or 1.425


----------



## Cobain325

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1212227
1.425v = 1.408v in CPU-z


----------



## ryman546

ill have to check that out. swore cpu-z read the same as bios.

Tmpin2 is getting up there. like upper 50's...anyone else around here?


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
ill have to check that out. swore cpu-z read the same as bios.

Tmpin2 is getting up there. like upper 50's...anyone else around here?

Are you using the Heatsink or waterblock, God knows what TMPIN2 is, but it seemed to drop 10c under stress going from waterblock (without water) to heatsink.


----------



## lie_cheat_steal

Hello World! I'm new to this forum and to overclocking. It's a long post, so I'll put the main points in bold

I cross-checked HWMonitor's temps with Gigabyte's EasyTune 6 utility, and it looks like:
*TMPIN0 is 'System' temperature
TMPIN1 is 'CPU' temperature*
...that's all I've got. I'm going to tentatively believe that TMPIN2 is NB temperature until evidence points otherwise







Dunno if that helps.

ryman:

*Under load, my TMPIN2 gets to ~54*.
Also, I'm not sure about the accuracy of the sensors on the MB; maybe experienced people take MB-reported temps with a grain of salt (I'm using the updated BIOS). *My 'CPU' temperature is invariably higher than the core temp, no matter which monitoring software I use, and this doesn't make sense to me.* At idle, the core temp is ~24, and the so-called CPU temp is ~42. Under full load, the core temp plateaus @ 45, with the CPU temp at about 60 (temperature-induced throttling?). From the reported voltages, it doesn't look like the CPU is being throttled down. *Does anyone else see this discrepancy in their temps?* I have read that current-generation AMD chips don't have independent sensors on each core (http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/howitworks.html) Maybe my heatsink is not seated properly, and the coretemp reading is from an area that has good contact with the heatsink?


----------



## ryman546

lie cheat steal whats ur clock at etc. Cobain i'm using the air heatsink not the waterblock. I used ocz freeze for the contact. Under full load after 2 hours temps get to around 57-58.. on tmpin2.


----------



## ryman546

just broke 3 hours on prime95 blend.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lie_cheat_steal*


Hello World! I'm new to this forum and to overclocking. It's a long post, so I'll put the main points in bold

I cross-checked HWMonitor's temps with Gigabyte's EasyTune 6 utility, and it looks like:
*TMPIN0 is 'System' temperature
TMPIN1 is 'CPU' temperature*
...that's all I've got. I'm going to tentatively believe that TMPIN2 is NB temperature until evidence points otherwise







Dunno if that helps.

ryman:

*Under load, my TMPIN2 gets to ~54*.
Also, I'm not sure about the accuracy of the sensors on the MB; maybe experienced people take MB-reported temps with a grain of salt (I'm using the updated BIOS). *My 'CPU' temperature is invariably higher than the core temp, no matter which monitoring software I use, and this doesn't make sense to me.* At idle, the core temp is ~24, and the so-called CPU temp is ~42. Under full load, the core temp plateaus @ 45, with the CPU temp at about 60 (temperature-induced throttling?). From the reported voltages, it doesn't look like the CPU is being throttled down. *Does anyone else see this discrepancy in their temps?* I have read that current-generation AMD chips don't have independent sensors on each core (http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/howitworks.html) Maybe my heatsink is not seated properly, and the coretemp reading is from an area that has good contact with the heatsink?


Alrighty, Going by what you said. I'm going to make an assumption. From what I've gathered, Often GB uses the SB temp for the System temp, which would make sense now. My new theory is:

TMPIN0 = Southbridge
TMPIN1 = CPU
TMPIN2 = Northbridge

As for your Core temps vs CPU temps, The core temp is pulled from a sensor on the chip , where as the CPU temp is calculated from the motherboard. You would usually just follow the higher of the 2 just to be safe. My core temps are usually about 10c lower that my CPU temp aswell. As for your throttling, I can't get my CPU to 60c to try so can't say much there.


----------



## lie_cheat_steal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


lie cheat steal whats ur clock at etc.


Sorry, I thought the signature would have all of that...

Reference clock @ 259
CPU @ 14x = 3626 
HT @ 8x = 2072
memory @5.33 = 1380.47 9-9-9-24

CPU @ 1.44v; all other voltages stock.

These numbers might betray my novice status, I dunno. I'm just beginning with my experimentation, and am not informed/comfortable enough yet to raise voltages on the NB, etc. Thanks!


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lie_cheat_steal*


Sorry, I thought the signature would have all of that...

Reference clock @ 259
CPU @ 14x = 3626 
HT @ 8x = 2072
memory @5.33 = 1380.47 9-9-9-24

CPU @ 1.44v; all other voltages stock.

These numbers might betray my novice status, I dunno. I'm just beginning with my experimentation, and am not informed/comfortable enough yet to raise voltages on the NB, etc. Thanks!


Too much volts for the CPU, for 3.6 I'd say 1.35-1.375 would suffice. What do you have the NB freq at? As that will make a noticeable difference to your RAM and L3 speeds, just leave the Multiplier for it @ 10x and bump the NB voltage control up 1 notch. I would also recommend that you tighten your RAM latencies a bit, go for 7-7-7-24-27-1T and try to boot. Other than that, It looks good.

Edit, Just noticed you have Ripjaws. Crank them up to 1600 or as close as you can get it and put your NB VID up 2-3 increments.

Edit #2, Ryman, I've just noticed my vcore does pop into the 1.42v mark (can't see by how much as this was from HwMonitor) during stress but it seems to spend more time at 1.408v.


----------



## lie_cheat_steal

Cobain,
Thanks for the tips! I'll try them out one-by-one to minimize confusion. ref. clock @ 259; HT and NB multipliers @ 8x for now. I tried the tighter RAM timings, but would not post. Right now, I'm running the CPU at 1.375v; going to find the lowest stable voltage. Running Prime95 for about 15 minutes now, and temps are:
core: 48
tmpin0: 46
tmpin1: 58
tmpin2: 62

Don't know how I feel about that last one...

Thanks again, and I'll post my final stable settings!


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lie_cheat_steal* 
Cobain,
Thanks for the tips! I'll try them out one-by-one to minimize confusion. ref. clock @ 259; HT and NB multipliers @ 8x for now. I tried the tighter RAM timings, but would not post. Right now, I'm running the CPU at 1.375v; going to find the lowest stable voltage. Running Prime95 for about 15 minutes now, and temps are:
core: 48
tmpin0: 46
tmpin1: 58
tmpin2: 62

Don't know how I feel about that last one...

Thanks again, and I'll post my final stable settings!

Hmm, either you have rather high ambient temps or something isn't right there. I would suggest reseating your CPU if you ambient temps aren't overly high.

Ref @ 280Mhz
CPU @ 14x
NB @ 10x (2800Mhz)
HT @ 10x (2800Mhz)
RAM @ x5.33 multiplier & 7-8-7-24-33-1T

RAM volts @ 1.61v
NB VC @ 1.19v
HT VC @ 1.22v
NB VID @ 1.30v
CPU @ 1.40v

Try those settings, should be stable and get you alot more performance.

Will look something like this:








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1212787


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
Hmm, either you have rather high ambient temps or something isn't right there. I would suggest reseating your CPU if you ambient temps aren't overly high.

Ref @ 280Mhz
CPU @ 14x
NB @ 10x (2800Mhz)
HT @ 10x (2800Mhz)
RAM @ x5.33 multiplier & 7-8-7-24-33-1T

RAM volts @ 1.61v
NB VC @ 1.19v
HT VC @ 1.22v
NB VID @ 1.30v
CPU @ 1.40v

Try those settings, should be stable and get you alot more performance.

Will look something like this:








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1212787

You've got a good batch, man.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tinate*


You've got a good batch, man.










This is my 2nd 1055T (First one came half DOA) and it would still do these clocks and almost the same volts. First one could actually go higher too, I had it at 4.34Ghz @ 1.55v stable, I need 1.575v for those clocks on this one. Are you sure you don't have something set wrong? Cause I haven't seen a 1055T/1090T on 890FX clock so poorly.


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


This is my 2nd 1055T (First one came half DOA) and it would still do these clocks and almost the same volts. First one could actually go higher too, I had it at 4.34Ghz @ 1.55v stable, I need 1.575v for those clocks on this one. Are you sure you don't have something set wrong? Cause I haven't seen a 1055T/1090T on 890FX clock so poorly.


I'm sure. I've run my cpu on the crosshair and MSI board as well. It won't be stable above 3.8ghz. I can post @ 4ghz, but it freezes while loading.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tinate*


I'm sure. I've run my cpu on the crosshair and MSI board as well. It won't be stable above 3.8ghz. I can post @ 4ghz, but it freezes while loading.


Well, hate to be a prick but, you've just brightened my day.








I was thinking mine wasn't so great before.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

well finally started overclocking my 965 c3 on this board, and im starting with the cpu oc only first, then once thats stable, i will move onto the nb

right now, im at 4ghz @1.50v, ram at stock settings and voltage
cpu-nb voltage is stock as well

ran 10 passes of max mem linx, and temps were 55
im running prime 95 small fft right now to test for final cpu stability, and temps peaked to 56 but have settled so far at 53 for a few hours

does 1.5 seem like alot for a c3 965 for 4ghz?
also, what if i bump my cpu-nb volts and drop my vcore, will that help stability at all or at stock nb freq does it not matter for cpu overclocking?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

fyi, i cant recommend this g skill pi ddr3 1600 memory enough...i tightened the timings to 6-7-6-24-1t at stock 1.6 voltage, and im memtest 2 hours stable without a hitch so far...im wondering if i should try for 6-6-6-24-1t


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


fyi, i cant recommend this g skill pi ddr3 1600 memory enough...i tightened the timings to 6-7-6-24-1t at stock 1.6 voltage, and im memtest 2 hours stable without a hitch so far...im wondering if i should try for 6-6-6-24-1t










I think I'm going to get the DDR3-2200 set -- the set that comes with the fan for the RAM. I know that AM3 boards can't get that high on the memory, but I like how this set is actually listed on Gigabyte's memory compatibility list (unlike my last set of RAM that crapped the bed







), I like the fan it comes with, and I like how they're basically guaranteed to run at 1600MHz with tight timings because they're binned for 2200MHz.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


I think I'm going to get the DDR3-2200 set -- the set that comes with the fan for the RAM. I know that AM3 boards can't get that high on the memory, but I like how this set is actually listed on Gigabyte's memory compatibility list (unlike my last set of RAM that crapped the bed







), I like the fan it comes with, and I like how they're basically guaranteed to run at 1600MHz with tight timings because they're binned for 2200MHz.


cool, i saw those too..also, g skill is coming out with their flare series, which are ddr3 2000+ modules designed specifically for AMD AM3 boards...about time someone gave us some love and designed something for us and not just intel


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


cool, i saw those too..also, g skill is coming out with their flare series, which are ddr3 2000+ modules designed specifically for AMD AM3 boards...about time someone gave us some love and designed something for us and not just intel


















Do you know when they'll drop? They sound interesting...


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*









Do you know when they'll drop? They sound interesting...


Sorry, they are DDR3 1800...

supposedly they are out now, but i cant find them available anywhere

here is the link for some info on them...very enticing indeed...

http://www.guru3d.com/news/gskill-fl...for-phenom-ii/


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
Sorry, they are DDR3 1800...

supposedly they are out now, but i cant find them available anywhere

here is the link for some info on them...very enticing indeed...

http://www.guru3d.com/news/gskill-fl...for-phenom-ii/

Thanks for that. After some snooping around, I found this thread. These will drop during the beginning of June. I think I'll wait around for these then







.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Thanks for that. After some snooping around, I found this thread. These will drop during the beginning of June. I think I'll wait around for these then







.

np, kinda makes me wish i waited lol


----------



## ryman546

got a bsod during bc2. Thought i had it stable. Not sure what to up. Whats everyones temp on northbridge? Mine can get up to 60 degrees...no clue if this is to hot. gets there on intel burn test.

frequency is 2600 at 1.225 volts
chip is at 1.42 volts. Which should i up !


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


got a bsod during bc2. Thought i had it stable. Not sure what to up. Whats everyones temp on northbridge? Mine can get up to 60 degrees...no clue if this is to hot. gets there on intel burn test.

frequency is 2600 at 1.225 volts
chip is at 1.42 volts. Which should i up !


Run BlueScreenView application.

It reads the bsod dump file that was left behind and will tell you what caused the crash.


----------



## ryman546

have no idea what it says though.
screenshot below.


----------



## ryman546




----------



## ToxicAdam

Right click.. will give you more info

The above pic says it was caused by "usbccgp.sys"


----------



## saiyanzzrage

guys, any input/advice/recommendations would be helpful here....im not having any luck now trying to oc my nb freq...

I started with the cpu freq first, and got it 10 pass linx and 8 hours of prime small fft stable at 1,5v, load temps 52-53

im trying to oc my nb freq now, and bumped it up to 2200, leaving the cpu-nb voltage at stock, and every time it fails bumping it up a step (im using prime 95 blend to test each bump)...right now im testing at 1,2v @2200

im reading about people getting 2200 on stock cpu nb volts, what am i missing here?

all other voltages are at stock, and my ram is at 6-7-6-24-1t ddr3 1600 3 pass memtest stable

should i be touching the nb voltage?

thanks and happy memorial day


----------



## saiyanzzrage

tried nb @ 2200 with 1.2v and it failed in like 15 minutes..i dont get it


----------



## Chico212

ok i need a simple non biased answer MSI 890 FX or GIGABYTE 890 FX, features performance and price wise, which one is better? im torn between the two


----------



## decimator

Well, you kinda came to the wrong place for a non-biased answer...I went with the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 simply because Gigabyte boards have proven to be monster overclockers in the past and this board was $20 cheaper than MSI's offering at the time. Also, this UD5 is basically the same as the UD7 except that it's ATX form factor and doesn't have the extra PCIe slots.


----------



## Lazorbeam

Yup wrong place for an un-biased answer.

I'm sure every GB board owner in this thread has done his/her own research. We all came to the same conclusion: GB.


----------



## decimator

I just read one of Tator Tot's posts in another thread and he said F3 beta BIOS is out? Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I just read one of Tator Tot's posts in another thread and he said F3 beta BIOS is out? Can anyone confirm this?

Haven't heard anything yet. Keep me posted though.


----------



## decimator

Here is the link to his post in reference to a 890FXA-UD5. I should probably PM him and ask him where he found it.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Here is the link to his post in reference to a 890FXA-UD5. I should probably PM him and ask him where he found it.


Oh what?








Don't tell me the UD5 is getting bios before UD7 again.


----------



## gooface

so Im new here (have alot of questions)

I have the GA-890FXA-UD5 and I have alot of issues with this board, I was told that i needed to put turbo on so i have it on because what was happening was that my cpu downclocked to 800mhz and stayed there no matter what, and the only way it went back to 4.118ghz is I had to reset the PC and check the bios to see if it was still overclocked (it was) and get into windows to work again at 4.118ghz instead of 800mhz..... so I dont know if this is a common problem, but my fix was to turn turbo on....

ALSO i have a REALLY bad voltage problem with my cpu, i have to set it at 1.68volts to achieve 1.55volts.... I dont get this and the problem is that when it runs at 1.55volts it sometimes volts up to 1.65volts and 1.6volts.. so I'm worried here... whats going on with my board??? Im on the F2 bios BTW....

ALSO something weird started happening I had it 8 hours stable at 1.5volts and now to make it stable i need 1.55volts.... I DONT UNDERSTAND!!!

can anyone help me??


----------



## ryman546

update to latest bios. turn off turbo. turn off amd cool and quiet. turn off cpu performance boost.

ur voltage should stable out and u can go from there.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
update to latest bios. turn off turbo. turn off amd cool and quiet. turn off cpu performance boost.

ur voltage should stable out and u can go from there.

^ this + turn off C1E too.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
update to latest bios. turn off turbo. turn off amd cool and quiet. turn off cpu performance boost.

ur voltage should stable out and u can go from there.

I have F2 bios, I have all that turned off cept turbo cuz of my problem that i have. any solutions? thanks for the fast reply


----------



## gooface

well thats really really odd, i changed one setting the core boost (lied about the turbo it was core boost sorry) and then i reset and the volts completely change on the CPU, and i get a BSOD before i get into windows, and now when it says 1.55volts in the bios i finally works at 1.55volts in windows... but I'm still worried ill get the issue with the 800mhz thing even though like I said all the options are off on powersaving and cool and quiet and everything else.

but thanks, that changed my volt issue though.


----------



## Cobain325

Double check that AMD C1E and Cool and Quiet are off and also the Thermal thing in the PC Health group. I can't remember what it is but its the first/second option in there.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Double check that AMD C1E and Cool and Quiet are off and also the Thermal thing in the PC Health group. I can't remember what it is but its the first/second option in there.


where is C1E located? I think i have it off but im not sure.. and CNQ and the thermal one is off too.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooface*


where is C1E located? I think i have it off but im not sure.. and CNQ and the thermal one is off too.


If I remember correctly, it's one the first things in the Motherboard Intelligent Tweaker group.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


If I remember correctly, it's one the first things in the Motherboard Intelligent Tweaker group.


yea i already had it off, it was in Adv settings.


----------



## gooface

the only question that remains (lets say that this doesnt go back to 800mhz anymore) is that before like in this pic I took: 

i could run this CPU for 9 hours stable at 1.5volts and now I have to run it at 1.55volts to run it stable(just tried again at 1.5volts with prime95 with BSOD)

I dont get what happened to my chip...









also my fan sensor is messed up on hardware monitor (dont know why) says its running at 44rpm for my cpu, but its clearly not...


----------



## Cobain325

You still have turbo on...
VID shouldn't be 1.475v with turbo off.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
also my fan sensor is messed up on hardware monitor (dont know why) says its running at 44rpm for my cpu, but its clearly not...

You sure your not reading the temperature? Fan RPM's look fine going by that HWmonitor in the SS.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
You still have turbo on...
VID shouldn't be 1.475v with turbo off.

You sure your not reading the temperature? Fan RPM's look fine going by that HWmonitor in the SS.

that was when it worked (aka old) at 1.5volts now it only works with 1.55volts. this is how it is now:


see the difference?


----------



## Cobain325

Well for one, your using an old Hwmonitor in that SS. That'd probably explain your 44 RPM thing. As for the volts:clocks thing, I dunno.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
Well for one, your using an old Hwmonitor in that SS. That'd probably explain your 44 RPM thing. As for the volts:clocks thing, I dunno.

lol didnt notice that, ok updated now its fine, but the volts thing is what worries me cuz i wish i could run it again at 1.5volts and not 1.55, but whatever... unless theres a fix for this i can live with it.


----------



## Cobain325

I had the same thing with my CPU, decided to leave it at 4Ghz with 1.4v instead of 1.5v-1.525v for 4.1-4.2Ghz.


----------



## BeepBeep

@ gooface

Drop your multi to 14x
Set HT/NB multi to 10x
Set CPU Freq to 300
(Gskill Ripjaws will be at 1,599 -> make sure ram is at default timings (it makes no difference when lowered unless higher NB multi))
Set ram to 1.610v
Set CPU to 1.4750v effectively (or 1.500 for your chip)
Set NB to 1.300v effectively
Make sure Turbo core is turned off

4.2ghz, 3.0NB


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


@ gooface

Drop your multi to 14x
Set HT/NB multi to 10x
Set CPU Freq to 300
(Gskill Ripjaws will be at 1,599 -> make sure ram is at default timings (it makes no difference when lowered unless higher NB multi))
Set ram to 1.610v
Set CPU to 1.4750v effectively (or 1.500 for your chip)
Set NB to 1.300v effectively
Make sure Turbo core is turned off

4.2ghz, 3.0NB


question my ram is 2000mhz ram running at 1600 actaully (fixed in sig) what should i set it at?


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooface*


question my ram is 2000mhz ram running at 1600 actaully (fixed in sig) what should i set it at?


Ahh its the 2000mhz ram, 6.66x ram and 1.65v should suffice. (effectively 1998mhz)
Although my settings above are not tested with that sort of speed on the memory controller, only the 1600 kit.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


Ahh its the 2000mhz ram, 6.66x ram and 1.65v should suffice. (effectively 1998mhz)
Although my settings above are not tested with that sort of speed on the memory controller, only the 1600 kit.


well ill give it a try and report back.


----------



## gooface

ok tried that and my board wouldnt POST so I dont think it will work with 300mhz FSB. my CPU Stepping: CCBBE CB 1011MPMW


----------



## BeepBeep

Drop the ram to 5.33x and see what happens, (just for test)


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


Drop the ram to 5.33x and see what happens, (just for test)


ok that works, but i had to set the NB at 1.375v to get into windows (did it with my 4.118ghz OC dunno why it needs that much but it works lol)

so this board wont work at 2ghz mem? are we not feeding enough volts in it to do so?

will run tests atm to see if its even stable atm @ 4.2ghz and 3ghz NB/HT


----------



## gooface

ok i tried that and i got a BSOD at 1.55volts and i uped it to 1.575 and prime crashed but not BSOD, so i dont like where this is heading..


----------



## BeepBeep

Doesnt seem right, are you running the default bios that came with the board?


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


Doesnt seem right, are you running the default bios that came with the board?


no im running F2
isnt turbo the same thing as Core boost cuz i see nothing that says turbo

well i tried your settings with 13.5 multi (4.05ghz) and it works, so i dont know what the deal is, might just mean my cpu is volt hungery. I think with these settings my compy is faster than it was when it was at 4.12ghz cuz it has a higer FSB/HT/NB speed. would that be a rightful assumption?


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooface*


no im running F2
isnt turbo the same thing as Core boost cuz i see nothing that says turbo

well i tried your settings with 13.5 multi (4.05ghz) and it works, so i dont know what the deal is, might just mean my cpu is volt hungery. I think with these settings my compy is faster than it was when it was at 4.12ghz cuz it has a higer FSB/HT/NB speed. would that be a rightful assumption?


Yes, higher FSB with lower multi should always gain more performance than higher multi and lower fsb








With NB at 3.0, you should see a nice ram latency/speed to.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


Yes, higher FSB with lower multi should always gain more performance than higher multi and lower fsb










here it is running Prime95 atm



yea just for kicks i ran the windows WEI thing and got 7.9 on my ram and it was only 7.6 before.

DANGIT it just crashed 5 mins after this picture, no BSOD just locked up, so im going to test it with 1.4volts NB and see what happens.


----------



## BeepBeep

1.3250 NB, don't need any higher.

It's bizarre that your CPU requires so much juice for just over 4ghz, i prime95 blend for hours at 1.47 for 4.2 at the settings i posted earlier,

10 pass ibt stable too.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


1.3250 NB, don't need any higher.

It's bizarre that your CPU requires so much juice for just over 4ghz, i prime95 blend for hours at 1.47 for 4.2 at the settings i posted earlier,

10 pass ibt stable too.


i dont think it will post at that volts cuz it didnt post at 1.3volts I dont understand either man this is really odd..


----------



## saiyanzzrage

im 20 pass linx max mem stable @ 4.0 ghz on my 965, 1.5v, nb @ 2600 (1.275 cpu-nb)

One thing I noticed is cpuz and hwmonitor are reporting my cpu voltage as 1.488, when it set to 1.5 in the bios?


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
here it is running Prime95 atm



yea just for kicks i ran the windows WEI thing and got 7.9 on my ram and it was only 7.6 before.

DANGIT it just crashed 5 mins after this picture, no BSOD just locked up, so im going to test it with 1.4volts NB and see what happens.

did you try dropping ram timings ? maybe even to 1333? Also 1.55 seems excessive for 4ghz.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
1.3250 NB, don't need any higher.

It's bizarre that your CPU requires so much juice for just over 4ghz, i prime95 blend for hours at 1.47 for 4.2 at the settings i posted earlier,

10 pass ibt stable too.

what do your tmpin02 temps get up to on hours of prime 95 with that setting?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
did you try dropping ram timings ? maybe even to 1333? Also 1.55 seems excessive for 4ghz.

1.55 for 4ghz is VERY excessive...look at your tmpin2, your mobo is getting way too hot...59c is pushing it

try first getting you cpu stable at the lowest possible voltage, leaving ram loose @ 1333 and nb at stock to take any other factors out of the equation

then, once you find your stable cpu voltage, then start playing with the nb and ram


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


did you try dropping ram timings ? maybe even to 1333? Also 1.55 seems excessive for 4ghz.


well i tested it at those settings and after 6 and a half hours of prime it crashed.... so im back running at 4.11ghz again... because it was stable...

and to answer your question, yes i did try dropping ram timings I set them at cas 11, and still the same results so i dont have the slightest clue whats up

also I still have the issue where i power up and the multiplier is only at 4x and i can game or do something cpu intense and i stays at that low multiplier...

atm im trying to low the voltage on my cpu with the 4050mhz again and im testing at 1.475volts, and so far so good, but dont get any hopes up..


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
1.55 for 4ghz is VERY excessive...look at your tmpin2, your mobo is getting way too hot...59c is pushing it

try first getting you cpu stable at the lowest possible voltage, leaving ram loose @ 1333 and nb at stock to take any other factors out of the equation

then, once you find your stable cpu voltage, then start playing with the nb and ram

i'm not sure 59c is pushing it....I get the same exact thing at 1.4 volts with the ud7 / 1090t

would like to get some feedback on all the ud7 and their tmpin2 temps at 4-5 hours prime95

or even a 5 count IBT

Have we confirmed that tmpin2 is northbridge? If so that seems extremely hot.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Hmm. I've been looking at the UD7 board, thinking i should move on from my AM2/am2+/am3 board (GA-MA790FX-UD5P) to a full on AM3 board (and obviously upgrade from ddr 2 to ddr3!). However, the size is a concern. The depth of a tower has to be fairly big for it to fit, yes?

I currently have a lian-li PC-x1000 ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tem=11-112-242 ). I think though that it's just a tad too small, but would like confirmation just to be sure







(i suck at estimating sizes like that)


----------



## gooface

so far so good at 1.5v for 4.05ghz, hope my temps are good, and I hope it stays like this, so i can be done worrying about it, I just want a stable PC... btw it did the x4 multiplier thing again....


----------



## ChrisB17

I am sad to say. But I have to RMA this board. Its an awesome board but AMD needs to fix the AHCI and RAID options. I can't deal with the poor performance with them enabled. I have tried drivers etc.. Nothing works. It seems to be a common issue with AMD chipsets. Damn this was a good board.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


I am sad to say. But I have to RMA this board. Its an awesome board but AMD needs to fix the AHCI and RAID options. I can't deal with the poor performance with them enabled. I have tried drivers etc.. Nothing works. It seems to be a common issue with AMD chipsets. Damn this was a good board.


ahci and raid options?

ive got to figure out what the safe temp for tmpin2 is. This temp seems to be higher then cpu etc.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


I am sad to say. But I have to RMA this board. Its an awesome board but AMD needs to fix the AHCI and RAID options. I can't deal with the poor performance with them enabled. I have tried drivers etc.. Nothing works. It seems to be a common issue with AMD chipsets. Damn this was a good board.


Raid is perfectly fine for me.


----------



## ChrisB17

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


ahci and raid options?

ive got to figure out what the safe temp for tmpin2 is. This temp seems to be higher then cpu etc.


They are under HDD options or w/e.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Raid is perfectly fine for me.


Lucky. I would have used "raid" but I would rather have AHCI. But when I tried Raid it still did the same thing. Stock settings etc... 5 re formats later I was sick of it.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


They are under HDD options or w/e.

Lucky. I would have used "raid" but I would rather have AHCI. But when I tried Raid it still did the same thing. Stock settings etc... 5 re formats later I was sick of it.


What exactly is wrong with yours? I want to check that I don't have it.


----------



## ChrisB17

Well the problem was doing more then 3 HDD incentive things result in a freeze. I tried 2 hard drives and it still did that. Not to mention the 5 min boot times. Putting the PC on IDE fixed it. But I lost some features I wanted. I blame the drivers for the issue not the board.

I just cant wait for them to be fixed.


----------



## Abovethelaw

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ChrisB17* 
Well the problem was doing more then 3 HDD incentive things result in a freeze. I tried 2 hard drives and it still did that. Not to mention the 5 min boot times. Putting the PC on IDE fixed it. But I lost some features I wanted. I blame the drivers for the issue not the board.

I just cant wait for them to be fixed.

This isn't my experience at all. I'm at the Windows screen before my monitor starts displaying.


----------



## ChrisB17

What is your HDD set to? IDE, AHCI or RAID? AHCI was the slowest for me. It was terrible.


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
what do your tmpin02 temps get up to on hours of prime 95 with that setting?

Average out around 55c, no higher.

More NB volts == much higher tmp02 though.

@Above

I use mine in RAID and it is the same as my old p45 intel board, avg out around 230MB/s

The only couple of things i dislike about this board / cpu:

My external drive will randomly turn off then when pc goes to access it, it will forever load, and stop anything from running therein, recently i turned my pc off and disc was still being read/trying to be accessed and shutting down... screen lasted for almost 30minutes before fully shutting down, i disconnected the power from it and it turned pc finally turned off, then plug it back in and and boot up, its all fine, shut down again, fine, boot back up and disc is attempting to be accessed again, so windows decides to sit at "Starting Windows" screen for 15minutes until i dc external drive then it finally goes in, real pain in the ass.

Another thing i notice when booting up is everything takes a while to load, even with cpu @ 4.2, on my old Q9550 at 4.0 i could boot up, get past welcome screen without even seeing it and be fully ready to open loads of programs as soon as i hit desktop, with this Welcome screen takes a bit, desktop screen sits there and loads for 10-15seconds before i can even do anything. (this is also on a newly formatted drive too.. )


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


Average out around 55c, no higher.

More NB volts == much higher tmp02 though.

@Above

I use mine in RAID and it is the same as my old p45 intel board, avg out around 230MB/s

The only couple of things i dislike about this board / cpu:

My external drive will randomly turn off then when pc goes to access it, it will forever load, and stop anything from running therein, recently i turned my pc off and disc was still being read/trying to be accessed and shutting down... screen lasted for almost 30minutes before fully shutting down, i disconnected the power from it and it turned pc finally turned off, then plug it back in and and boot up, its all fine, shut down again, fine, boot back up and disc is attempting to be accessed again, so windows decides to sit at "Starting Windows" screen for 15minutes until i dc external drive then it finally goes in, real pain in the ass.

Another thing i notice when booting up is everything takes a while to load, even with cpu @ 4.2, on my old Q9550 at 4.0 i could boot up, get past welcome screen without even seeing it and be fully ready to open loads of programs as soon as i hit desktop, with this Welcome screen takes a bit, desktop screen sits there and loads for 10-15seconds before i can even do anything. (this is also on a newly formatted drive too.. )










yah i dont get it. under IBT Maximum stress test mine hits 63 degrees.

Thought this would be better cooling with that massive heatsink > _ <


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*


I am sad to say. But I have to RMA this board. Its an awesome board but AMD needs to fix the AHCI and RAID options. I can't deal with the poor performance with them enabled. I have tried drivers etc.. Nothing works. It seems to be a common issue with AMD chipsets. Damn this was a good board.


Having trouble with AHCI as well. Enabling it makes windows un-bootable past windows loading screen.

I'm also a complete noob with AHCI so idk.

On the same note, I'm having really weird problems booting. I essentially have to boot twice to get into windows. First boot posts, goes into device listing and then nothing else happens. The second boot brings me into windows 100% of the time. The system is fully stable so it's not a CPU/ram issue.

I hope F3 solves this..


----------



## ~Strawberry~

Does anybody have a picture of the UD7 with the hybrid slientpipe NB cooler on it? really would like to see it.

(sorry if it has been posted earlier)


----------



## blueness

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam*


Having trouble with AHCI as well. Enabling it makes windows un-bootable past windows loading screen.

I'm also a complete noob with AHCI so idk.

On the same note, I'm having really weird problems booting. I essentially have to boot twice to get into windows. First boot posts, goes into device listing and then nothing else happens. The second boot brings me into windows 100% of the time. The system is fully stable so it's not a CPU/ram issue.

I hope F3 solves this..


This may or may not be obvious already, but..... AHCI needs to be enabled during OS install, if you are doing it after you've installed the OS, there are specific steps that need to be taken... example: http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials...sta.html?ltr=A


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I've got a new low profile CPU cooler coming to help with the temp.

Noctua NH-C12P SE14 140mm SSO CPU Cooler








I'd like to be running cooler than this for my baseline setup. I considered liquid cooling but it's tough with the limited space in this HTPC case. I still might try to rig something up but, for now this seems to be a good move.


FAIL:
-the fan would not spin without a finger bump start
-once spinning (@ rated RPM via HW Monitor), it cooled slightly worse than my stock HSF!
-No improvement was made after a second installation that would make a brain surgeon proud... 
-It was given 3 days to prove itsself... It didn't.
-It was spendy
-Its going home
-Its dead to me

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Why does it show your CPU volts at 3.15v max?


Used it to jump start my truck... j/k

Don't know why... it hasn't happened again.

ALSO......

P1 has been updated with new memory listings, new members, new articles, new utility programs and current links.

Enjoy!


----------



## ryman546

having so many problems overclocking. Going to drop this crap back to stock and give up in a sec. Cant get it stable now at 4ghz. Starting to think this northbridge is not seated right because on IBT maximum stress *7400mb* cooks it up to 63 degrees celcius. Get a fail almost immediately...but before it was stable on IBT prime95 etc.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
having so many problems overclocking. Going to drop this crap back to stock and give up in a sec. Cant get it stable now at 4ghz. Starting to think this northbridge is not seated right because on IBT maximum stress *7400mb* cooks it up to 63 degrees celcius. Get a fail almost immediately...but before it was stable on IBT prime95 etc.

Hmm, Just as a test I ran IBT for like 30secs. My TMPIN2 went up 15c instantly.









So, I think they just run hot. Whatever it is for that matter.


----------



## ryman546

It continues to climb throughout the test. your IBT looks different as well o _ O

have you let it run through 2 loops before?

going to rip it all apart tonight. Hope to god this is the last time. Going to attach some more fans and get temps down.


----------



## gooface

can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong here? because my cpu runs at 1200mhz 300x4 all the time and I'm going mad.... I have everything disabled in the bios (to my knowledge) and im going insane!!!


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooface*


can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong here? because my cpu runs at 1200mhz 300x4 all the time and I'm going mad.... I have everything disabled in the bios (to my knowledge) and im going insane!!!
























Core 0 @ 4x300 and rest @ 14x300 or all cores @ 4x300?


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Core 0 @ 4x300 and rest @ 14x300 or all cores @ 4x300?


core 0 only the rest are fine and the deal is when i run games it doesnt go back to 4.05ghz, it stays at 1200. cool and quiet, C1E, and thermal control are disabled.
its really weird because the way to make it work again like it is now at 4.05ghz i have to reset, then go into the bios and save and exit and reset again and its fine for that time, but i have to do that everytime to get it to work.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
core 0 only the rest are fine and the deal is when i run games it doesnt go back to 4.05ghz, it stays at 1200. cool and quiet, C1E, and thermal control are disabled.
its really weird because the way to make it work again like it is now at 4.05ghz i have to reset, then go into the bios and save and exit and reset again and its fine for that time, but i have to do that everytime to get it to work.

Turn C1E and CnQ back on. Boot. Open P95 and run it. Check the Freq on load. Then go disable it again and check the freq again.


----------



## ryman546

cant get anything stable. baffled.

im doing IBT runs that seem to own prime95 and occt. I'm hours long prime95 stable but i cant make it past 3 runs on IBT.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

Hey guys I want some opinions









So I was thinking . As I have the silent pipe NB heatsink installed on my ud7 and that it has fins and I don't want to go water until december .

I tough of getting the Katana3 and put it facing the silent pipe blowing air on it with a nice fan on it ( maybe with led who know ).

not going to overclock all that high on the cpu maybe 3.4GHz just want to see the effect and have a rarely seen cooler







.

So could it work ?

As I'm now addicted to running caseless I want a good looking/rarely seen/quite good CPU cooler . and katana3 seem to be a good little one .

The katana3 I want


----------



## ryman546

well if ur not going to overclock much the silent pipe will cool FINE. its better than standard heatsink. Its when u get 4ghz or above the northbridge starts to heat up.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

well, i just ran an 8 hour run of prime blend, with cpu @ 4.0ghz (1.525v) and nb @ 2600 (cpu-nb @ 1.275v) and the nb was ok...my nb temps (TMPIN02 hit 52 at the highest, so i think were ok)

Since i got the H50, i was a bit concerned about high mobo temps since i dont have any fans near my mobo anymore, and was considering putting an intake fan on my antec 902 case if needed, but i dont think it is

i guess what i should have done was physically touched the nb and see how hot it was, but i guess 52c isnt too bad


----------



## gooface

well i hope i dont burn my NB up cuz of 59C, but i dont think thats going to happen, cuz for one i dont do anything that uses the CPU and RAM up for like 8 hours like prime95 does, all i do is game, and no game uses 4 gigs of ram and 6 cores and especially i dont game for 8 hours straight. but still im going to add one more 120mm fan in my case to see if things improve. but i think im fine, if im not well i got a 3 year warranty on this board.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
well i hope i dont burn my NB up cuz of 59C, but i dont think thats going to happen, cuz for one i dont do anything that uses the CPU and RAM up for like 8 hours like prime95 does, all i do is game, and no game uses 4 gigs of ram and 6 cores and especially i dont game for 8 hours straight. but still im going to add one more 120mm fan in my case to see if things improve. but i think im fine, if im not well i got a 3 year warranty on this board.

my thoughts exactly...nothing will stress the system as hard as any stress test

to be sure, ill monitor temps while gaming and take it from there


----------



## Cobain325

GTA IV will put my TMPIN2 into the mid 40's range. BC2 is close behind it too.
Swithing to a megashadow next week, horizontally mounted, with the bottom fan sucking air from the NB. I'll post some comparing images of idle and load temps.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
GTA IV will put my TMPIN2 into the mid 40's range. BC2 is close behind it too.
Swithing to a megashadow next week, horizontally mounted, with the bottom fan sucking air from the NB. I'll post some comparing images of idle and load temps.

cool, thanks!


----------



## ryman546

yah my prime 95 temps are fine. but my IBT tests are ridiculous maximum stress puts my tmpin2 temps at 63. going to stop using IBT. Hopefully i didnt damage anything.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
yah my prime 95 temps are fine. but my IBT tests are ridiculous maximum stress puts my tmpin2 temps at 63. going to stop using IBT. Hopefully i didnt damage anything.

yea theres no reason to run that, prime95 will stable your system to your needs, i mean what are you possibly going to do with your system that it will need to be more stable than testing with Prime? well thats my thoughts anyway... I dont know what you are going to do with your setup, but I think you should be fine with just prime95 stable.


----------



## ryman546

well i was 5+ hours prime 95 stable. OCCT stable etc. and Bc2 crashes like every 2 hours.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

anyone else noticing vdroop on this board?

I had to bump my voltage to 1.525v to be stable at 4.0ghz on my phenom 965, because i noticed hwmonitor was going between 1.52 and 1.5v....

When i was at 1.5v cpuz and hwmontor showed 1.488 - 1.5


----------



## ryman546

need to get home to install my physx CARD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just got my brand new MSI gts 250 twin frozr zzzZzzzZz

I need to be stable in games...got to figure out why BC2 is crashing. has to be my overclock.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


anyone else noticing vdroop on this board?

I had to bump my voltage to 1.525v to be stable at 4.0ghz on my phenom 965, because i noticed hwmonitor was going between 1.52 and 1.5v....

When i was at 1.5v cpuz and hwmontor showed 1.488 - 1.5


Could it be your PSU ?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marc-Olivier Beaudoin*


Could it be your PSU ?


that was my first thought, but this psu has gotten great reviews all over and Johnny guru gave it very high reviews as well

any way to test if it's the psu??


----------



## ryman546

doubt its ur psu. c1e support/ turbo / cng need to be off otherwise voltage will change. I believe though my 965 would drop a little under load as well. Think its normal.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

pretty sure c1e is off, ill check for turbo and cnq, although im pretty sure they are off as well

not a big deal in the end anyway i guess


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

I want an RV02 !!! but I'm worried about the lenght of my board in this case

will it fit without moding?

in picture it seem it could take it but I'm not 100% sure lenght of the ud7 is 12.8'' not 12'' but it really seem to have 1+'' between the last 3 ATX screws and the drive bays.

edit : NEVER MIND IT CAN !!! YAY


----------



## xcooling

Please add me ;-P

1055T on GA-890FX-UD5 @ *4.2Ghz* stable (prime+occt+linx for 48hours) (300mhz fsb x 14)

memory 1600mhz @ cas7 cmd rate 1T
otherwise 1600mhz @ cas 6 cmd rate 2T
depending what im doing.

Northbridge @ 3000Mhz
HT @ 3000Mhz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1227841


----------



## moorhen2

Just a heads up to those using Thubans,after going through this forum i see most "hexa"users are using high voltages,Thubans are a very different breed to Deneb,they dont need or like high voltages,on "air"you dont want to be going over 1.475v 24/7,"watercooling"1.55v 24/7,using such high voltages will degrade the cpu's very quickly,i have my rig @4.1ghz, only needs 1.400v 24/7,just hate to see you guys killing your cpu's before there time.


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xcooling*


Please add me ;-P

1055T on GA-890FX-UD5 @ *4.2Ghz* stable (prime+occt+linx for 48hours) (300mhz fsb x 14)

memory 1600mhz @ cas7 cmd rate 1T
otherwise 1600mhz @ cas 6 cmd rate 2T
depending what im doing.

Northbridge @ 3000Mhz
HT @ 3000Mhz

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1227841












From my personal experience, HT Link above 2.1 - 2.4k makes your PC slower.

Bit to much volts for 4.2? o.o


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
Bit to much volts for 4.2? o.o

That's what I was thinking...


----------



## ToxicAdam

*Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 Review*

http://www.overclock.net/hardware-ne...ml#post9602837


----------



## xcooling

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


From my personal experience, HT Link above 2.1 - 2.4k makes your PC slower.

Bit to much volts for 4.2? o.o


Ill do some benching on the HT link speeds, thanks for the heads up.

Voltage im not terribly worried, cpu is watercooled and the temps are 39DegC under full load. I might lower them later, if gigabyte does not improve the bios, Im waiting on a better bios so i can run a higher fsb (300 is the max i can currently get the board todo).


----------



## mav2000

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Marc-Olivier Beaudoin*


Hey guys I want some opinions









So I was thinking . As I have the silent pipe NB heatsink installed on my ud7 and that it has fins and I don't want to go water until december .

I tough of getting the Katana3 and put it facing the silent pipe blowing air on it with a nice fan on it ( maybe with led who know ).

not going to overclock all that high on the cpu maybe 3.4GHz just want to see the effect and have a rarely seen cooler







.

So could it work ?

As I'm now addicted to running caseless I want a good looking/rarely seen/quite good CPU cooler . and katana3 seem to be a good little one .

The katana3 I want 



well not trying to be rude, but then this board is not working for the money you paid...the ud5 would have been a better bet


----------



## gooface

still having issues on booting up with my clocks being with a 3x multiplier (on the first core) the rest are fine, and having to just enter the bios (without touching anything cept save and exit) everytime i boot to make not boot at 3x. I dont get this.. but with my little fix it works, but i have to do this EVERYTIME i turn on my pc or reset (i think) its driving me mad i tell you.


----------



## sebaz

I was happy with my new system with the GA-890FXA-UD5 and the AMD Phenom II 1090T overclocked to 4 Ghz with little effort, just setting the multiplier to 20x and that was it. Rest in auto. Last night I left it running the AMD Overdrive stability test to all calculations selected for 6 hours and 21 minutes and it finished without errors.

But a few hours ago I updated to the F2 BIOS and now everything's gone south. First of all, really annoyed by having to set everything in the BIOS back to the way it was. It should have a way to save the preferences between flash updates. But if that was the only problem, I wouldn't even be upset. But I'm furious. Because now, 4 Ghz is impossible. The computer won't go past the first few seconds of loading Windows 7. If I set the multiplier to 19x to get 3.8, it will load sometimes, but other times it will cause a BSOD. This is on a Win 7 64 bit installed from scratch after I got the motherboard, CPU and RAM.

This BIOS changed the way things work. With F1, I had to disable Core Boost to be able to overclock. If I didn't, CPU-Z would only show 3.2 Ghz. Now that changed. Not only Core Boost got changed to the MIT screen, but now, if it's disabled, the CPU is 800 Mhz. This is while running Prime, per CPU-Z. Now, to do any overclocking, Core Boost has to be enabled, but the highest I can overclock is 3.6, which is not really overclocking because the CPU is really 3.6 Ghz. In F1, if you disable Core Boost, all cores work at 3.6 Ghz steadily.

So this really sucks. Is there a way to revert to F1? Can anybody tell me how, in a safe way, preferably with a USB stick, not from Windows? And if there's no way, can anybody tell me what to do to get back my 4 Ghz with stability?

Thanks


----------



## crunchie

So, you did the sensible thing and saved your BIOS *before* you flashed, didn't you?
I just flashed to F2 because my OC settings would not stick when I F10'd. It's all good now.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sebaz*


I was happy with my new system with the GA-890FXA-UD5 and the AMD Phenom II 1090T overclocked to 4 Ghz with little effort, just setting the multiplier to 20x and that was it. Rest in auto. Last night I left it running the AMD Overdrive stability test to all calculations selected for 6 hours and 21 minutes and it finished without errors.

But a few hours ago I updated to the F2 BIOS and now everything's gone south. First of all, really annoyed by having to set everything in the BIOS back to the way it was. It should have a way to save the preferences between flash updates. But if that was the only problem, I wouldn't even be upset. But I'm furious. Because now, 4 Ghz is impossible. The computer won't go past the first few seconds of loading Windows 7. If I set the multiplier to 19x to get 3.8, it will load sometimes, but other times it will cause a BSOD. This is on a Win 7 64 bit installed from scratch after I got the motherboard, CPU and RAM.

This BIOS changed the way things work. With F1, I had to disable Core Boost to be able to overclock. If I didn't, CPU-Z would only show 3.2 Ghz. Now that changed. Not only Core Boost got changed to the MIT screen, but now, if it's disabled, the CPU is 800 Mhz. This is while running Prime, per CPU-Z. Now, to do any overclocking, Core Boost has to be enabled, but the highest I can overclock is 3.6, which is not really overclocking because the CPU is really 3.6 Ghz. In F1, if you disable Core Boost, all cores work at 3.6 Ghz steadily.

So this really sucks. Is there a way to revert to F1? Can anybody tell me how, in a safe way, preferably with a USB stick, not from Windows? And if there's no way, can anybody tell me what to do to get back my 4 Ghz with stability?

Thanks


When flashing the bios you should always set bios to failsafe settings beforehand,then shut down the pc,turn psu off,remove power cord from psu,press power button on pc for 20 secs,move the cmos jumper to clear,then move it back to keep.Then you can flash the bios,this is the correct way to do things.I would say you have a corrupt bios now,use the method above and try again.

Good luck.


----------



## sebaz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
When flashing the bios you should always set bios to failsafe settings beforehand,then shut down the pc,turn psu off,remove power cord from psu,press power button on pc for 20 secs,move the cmos jumper to clear,then move it back to keep.Then you can flash the bios,this is the correct way to do things.I would say you have a corrupt bios now,use the method above and try again.

Well, if that's the correct way to do it, then Gigabyte should put that with the instructions. I don't think I'm supposed to just know all that.

So you're saying that I should flash the current F2 BIOS again with F2?

Now, last night I was able to boot into Windows at 4 Ghz, but it involved raising the CPU voltage to 1.50. I did that because I read somewhere in this thread that the voltage was 1.50 in F1 but 1.30 something in F2, so I thought I'd give it a try. It boots, but when I run Prime for a few minutes one of the workers eventually quits saying that there's an error. I suppose that if they keep running, all of them will quit eventually.


----------



## fidof650

P1 update...

New member added (If I have missed anyone please post or PM me.)

New review added (Thanks Toxic)

Keep the CPU-Z validations coming so, I can update your P1 listings!

In other news,
I've received my RMA refund from the first attempt (NewEgg Rocks!) and am waiting for the RMA for the CPU cooler before launching my next attack. I'm still searching for a good compact cooling solution for my HTPC case. Though I would prefer to stay with air I think it might involve a custom liquid build which will be interesting as I've never worked with liquid cooling before and I want to keep it all internal with very little space to work with... I have some ideas but am still fleshing them out... 
Input welcome









Keep up the good work!!!


----------



## popncali

Just got done building my new pc, this thing is a beast but im having some problems. When I disable my performance boost in bio my first core is lock at 804mhz, anybody know why?

also all 3 programs are showing diff voltage, I would assume amd od is correct since thats the voltage I manuually set in bio?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *popncali*


Just got done building my new pc, this thing is a beast but im having some problems. When I disable my performance boost in bio my first core is lock at 804mhz, anybody know why?

also all 3 programs are showing diff voltage, I would assume amd od is correct since thats the voltage I manuually set in bio?










do you have cool n quiet enabled?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


P1 update...

New member added (If I have missed anyone please post or PM me.)

New review added (Thanks Toxic)

Keep the CPU-Z validations coming so, I can update your P1 listings!

In other news,
I've received my RMA refund from the first attempt (NewEgg Rocks!) and am waiting for the RMA for the CPU cooler before launching my next attack. I'm still searching for a good compact cooling solution for my HTPC case. Though I would prefer to stay with air I think it might involve a custom liquid build which will be interesting as I've never worked with liquid cooling before and I want to keep it all internal with very little space to work with... I have some ideas but am still fleshing them out... 
Input welcome









Keep up the good work!!!


ill get my validation tonight, i forgot to do that..ive been stable wothout a hitch @ 4.0 on my 965 c3


----------



## popncali

Ok, I'm still having the same problem with performance boost being disable.....c1e support/ turbo / cng all disable. When I have performance boost disable I would boot to window at full speed 3200 mhz but the next boot will be 800 mhz and vice versa, why is that?


----------



## xcooling

yeah, found mine does the same thing aswell (F2 bios)

it sometimes will boot with a 4x multiplier.. i can chnage it to 14x in windows. if i reboot it boots correctly at 14x.


----------



## xcooling

also wanted to add
HT speed.. i get way better performance @ 3000mhz (10x) than i do at 2100/2400/2700 (7x/8x/9x)


----------



## crunchie

This may have been asked already, but which temp/vcore readings would be closest to actual? BIOS, HWmonitor, CPU_z, OCCT.
All software readings for all 6 cores under load @ 3.8Ghz are 33C with about 15C ambients running a zalman 9500.
Will be putting it under water soon, but I am not confident those temps are correct.


----------



## supershanks

Hi Guys,

Sign me up please








Review
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 Review


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *supershanks*


Hi Guys,

Sign me up please








Review
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 Review


P1 updated.

Nice work!


----------



## Particle

Anyone else having trouble getting a stable HT Ref above about 230 MHz or so?


----------



## Stytch

Hey guys,

I'm just getting back into tinkering and am trying to re-familiarize myself with the process. Last full build was about three years ago, and was an intel based rig--my last AMD build was quite some time before that.

Just got my -UD5 board today, and I'm wanting to start this off right. I've been going over the posts--pack a lunch if you plan on reading from start to finish--but I still have a few questions before I start playin around.

1) After using all of the software to determine your build is stable, if your system crashes in a real world application (BF2 for instance); how do you determine if it was related to the OC? is there an application that can run in the background that can catch an error log?

2) I guess related to that would be: What order (if any) do you install drivers?

3) Any problems with this board's ATI chipset playing nicely with Nvidia cards? (I"ve got a 280 lying here, and was hoping to put off buying an ATI card for a few more months--but if its going to be a problem I'll sell the kids.)

4) Not planning on doing SLI obviously, but has anyone toyed with multiple cards and noticed a change in results towards/away from a successfull OC?

I've looked at several of your sigs and know I'm in the right spot to get answers, hopefully I'm not stepping on toes my first post.

Thanks for any help/advice in advance


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stytch* 
Hey guys,

I'm just getting back into tinkering and am trying to re-familiarize myself with the process. Last full build was about three years ago, and was an intel based rig--my last AMD build was quite some time before that.

Just got my -UD5 board today, and I'm wanting to start this off right. I've been going over the posts--pack a lunch if you plan on reading from start to finish--but I still have a few questions before I start playin around.

1) After using all of the software to determine your build is stable, if your system crashes in a real world application (BF2 for instance); how do you determine if it was related to the OC? is there an application that can run in the background that can catch an error log?

2) I guess related to that would be: What order (if any) do you install drivers?

3) Any problems with this board's ATI chipset playing nicely with Nvidia cards? (I"ve got a 280 lying here, and was hoping to put off buying an ATI card for a few more months--but if its going to be a problem I'll sell the kids.)

4) Not planning on doing SLI obviously, but has anyone toyed with multiple cards and noticed a change in results towards/away from a successfull OC?

I've looked at several of your sigs and know I'm in the right spot to get answers, hopefully I'm not stepping on toes my first post.

Thanks for any help/advice in advance

BC2 is like the ultimate stability to test. My system kept crashing BC2 so i upped my voltage on the cpu....no crashing now. IF you run prime95 for 9 hours and ur stable ur good also or OCCT for about 5. Just make sure to watch northbridge temps. TMPIN02 on hardware monitor. You do not want it breaking 60 degrees celcius.

I did a windows install then i ran all windows updates except graphics. After all the security etc is updated i then Download the latest on ati or nvidia and install those.

No problems with nvidia being in a ati board. IF you do SLI then ull need to get the hack in order to make it work.


----------



## fidof650

@Stytch

1. The best way to determine what has caused your crash is incremental OCing. Establish a base stable setting and keep track of the changes you make as you go. Periodically test for stability using various methods such as including both stress testing applications and real world usage such as BFBC2. If you take your time and indulge the process you'll end up with a stable OC and intimate knowledge regarding the limitations of each component in your system. You can use settings posted by other users as a road map but each piece of hardware is going to behave differently depending on which end of the tolerance spectrum it was manufactured at (Hardware is manufactured within tolerances which is why two identical components can perform at different levels. Separating components by performance margins outside of tolerances for distribution at different ratings is called binning). Further, the myriad variables that impact performance (i.e. manufacturing, ambient temperature, humidity, human error, etc. ad nauseum) are going to contribute to your OC prowess.

2. Once the OS is up and running I run the motherboard factory Drivers disk and then add additional drivers for add-ons like Graphics cards, Tuners, Wi-Fi cards etc. Once the basic drivers are all installed and working well, I search for updated drivers. This has always worked well for me but, opinions may very.

3. I've spoken to many happy Nvidia card users with this board and no complaints are coming to mind. (I run ATI)

4. I haven't heard much from people running the SLI hack so I can't comment.

Welcome!!! I've added you to P1.


----------



## Electroneng

Starting a build with the UD5 today and a 1055. My question is, which bios to go with F1 OR F2? I have heard about a lot of problems with F2!


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electroneng*


Starting a build with the UD5 today and a 1055. My question is, which bios to go with F1 OR F2? I have heard about a lot of problems with F2!


have had zero issues with f2..in fact i couldnt run my ram at stock 6-8-6-24-1t timings until i updated to f2


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electroneng*


Starting a build with the UD5 today and a 1055. My question is, which bios to go with F1 OR F2? I have heard about a lot of problems with F2!


What makes you say theres a lot of problems with bios F2,i have used all of them,and F2/F2a are the best and most stable.We seem to be forgetting that this is a new chipset and board,still in there early days,so there will be bios problems.


----------



## xcooling

where did u find F2A ?

wondering if its available for UD5


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electroneng*


Starting a build with the UD5 today and a 1055. My question is, which bios to go with F1 OR F2? I have heard about a lot of problems with F2!


I've had no problems with F1 or F2.

If you're concerned then start your build with F1 and then upgrade to F2 after you back-up F1 so you can go back to it if you don't like F2.

If you're really nervous you can start with F1 and just wait for F3........


----------



## Electroneng

Thanks Guys!

Wanted a backup on the F2 Bios. Some have said that It made their system less stable but we know that there are a lot of variables in overclocking. Just spent 15 hrs hunting down a cold boot issue on an MSI board which was resolved with a bios reflash. I have never tested a system's Ram, Power supply, Hard drives, and OS as much in my life! LOL


----------



## crunchie

Running F2 on mine and if I disable the boost in bios, the cpu frequency is stuck on it's lowest setting when I boot to Windows. 
C&Q disabled. C1E disabled.
Trying HT ref atm. 260Mhz so far with no problem.


----------



## popncali

im having the same problem bro(f2 bio), its driving me nuts......I have to basically boot my computer twice to get full speed out of my cpu....

Here's my setting
cnq = disable
c1e = disable
boost = disable
cpu unlock = disable(wth does this do anyway?)
cpu core = auto


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *popncali* 
cpu unlock = disable(wth does this do anyway?)

"cpu unlock" unlocks dormant/disabled cores on some processors such as the Phenom II x3 720, the Phenom II x2 550, and other procs that have been manufactured with more cores than are active.

Sometimes these core are deactivated because they are defective and sometimes they are deactivated just to meet the supply demands of that particular model. Those in the latter category are the bast candidates for core unlocking. Unfortunately its hit or miss weather you get one that is capable of unlocking (I have a 720 that is not







).

It was originally discovered that some 7xx series chips-set motherboards were able to unlock cores. Though this ability has been removed in the 8xx series chip-set, motherboard manufacturers have included the core unlocking feature in many of the 8xx series boards as a hardware workaround do to its popularity with gamers and enthusiasts.

I hope this answers you question


----------



## Stilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *popncali* 
im having the same problem bro(f2 bio), its driving me nuts......I have to basically boot my computer twice to get full speed out of my cpu....

Here's my setting
cnq = disable
c1e = disable
boost = disable
cpu unlock = disable(wth does this do anyway?)
cpu core = auto

Same here with same settings

Tim


----------



## popncali

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stilly*


Same here with same settings

Tim










I guess, well just have to wait for new bio to be release...


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated with new members and the new members spread sheet Beta.

Below is a Beta for a member spreadsheet. Please PM me with feedback or suggestions or for a link to the input form so you can to add yourself or fill in missing information. This will eventually replace the old member list. Enjoy!

 <!-- AME Google Spreadsheet --> http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0At7eapuF7nsydDRicVZoOGVmNXZabXZqaEhvUGs2N3c&w=100&h=400 Google Spreadsheet


----------



## decimator

Ugh, I look like such a scrub with 1090T at stock frequency...Can't overclock yet until I get my new RAM...


----------



## gooface

thats my cpu btw sorry been not posting this sooner, and yes its stable its like 9 hours stable, but i dont have a SS sorry, i formated and i lost it and really dont have any reason to run my pc on a stability test again any time soon.


----------



## Electroneng

Can someone identify:

TempIn0
TempIn1
TempIn2

In hardware monitor with a 1055 and a GA-890FXA-UD5?

I am reading 
39C
51C
55C

with my CPU AT 3.9GHZ. after 8hrs prime!

Thanks

*Nevermind! I got the answer reading this thread! Thanks Anyway!*


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Electroneng*


Can someone identify:

TempIn0
TempIn1
TempIn2

In hardware monitor with a 1055 and a GA-890FXA-UD5?

I am reading 
39C
51C
55C

with my CPU AT 3.9GHZ. after 8hrs prime!

Thanks

*Nevermind! I got the answer reading this thread! Thanks Anyway!*


TempIn1 is the CPU temp and TempIn2 is the NB temp. I'm pretty sure that TempIn0 is the system temp, but I'm not completely certain. From what I've been reading, though, CPU temp isn't important. It's the core temp that's important.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


From what I've been reading, though, CPU temp isn't important. It's the core temp that's important.


Not if you visit the AMD forums. Other way round.


----------



## crunchie

Here is my validation;



Attachment 159890

Running out-of-case atm, with a zalman 9500 until I get another AM2 hold down plate for my other apogee block.
Not tested for stability as yet. Just wanted to get it validated







.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Not if you visit the AMD forums. Other way round.


Meh, tell that to this guy...

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/74...ml#post9499809










Later on in the thread it states with proof that CPU temp is the right temp to go by. There's a lot of misinformation floating around here...


----------



## Electroneng

If you are having problems with the F2 bios starting up with Core 0 locked at the lowest multiplier 4X, be sure to go to the Gigabyte website and take out a ticket explaining this problem. The gigabyte UK forums has numerous listing on the issue!


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


P1 updated with new members and the new members spread sheet Beta.

Below is a Beta for a member spreadsheet. Please PM me with feedback or suggestions or for a link to the input form so you can to add yourself or fill in missing information. This will eventually replace the old member list. Enjoy!

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=0At7eapuF7nsydDRicVZoOGVmNXZabXZqaEhvUGs2N 3c&w=100&h=100=html



My CPU is 1090T








It's stable aswell, forgot to post an img.

Prime95 blend (however many hours, excessive bc2/gta4 gaming etc).



If you want to fill in the rest -

HT Link - 2000 (10x)
NB - 3000 (15x)
FSB - 200
Frequency - 4200 (21x)

CPUV - 1.45 in bios, 1.47 stress load, 1.452 game load
NBV - 1.3

Cooler - H50 push/pull
OS - Win7 64


----------



## Stilly

Hey Guy's

It seems I'm having a couple of problems. Using BIOS f2 it seems with my USB keyboard it won't always boot to the BIOS when tapping on the delete key.

Also I have a old IDE CD-Rom and I can't, even after setting up boot priority in the BIOS get it to boot from a CD thats been set as a bootable CD. ie:Memtest that has worked on other boards. Any ideas? Thanks


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Another UD5 owner here, and boy have I had issues with this thing.

I've noticed if the system is off (standby or actual off) for more than 12 hours I WILL have BIOS issues. Tonight I wasted another hour trying to get it to see my hard drives, which it magically stopped seeing. Details are as follows.

Processor: AMD 1090T at stock speeds and voltage
RAM: 8GB Corsair Dominator 1600 running at 1333 8-8-8-24 timings on 1.65 volts.
No overclocking done on the motherboard. Voltages all set to auto for troubleshooting.

The processor and RAM were previously tested in another motherboard, and this one, and easily passed Prime95 and Memtest 86+ for 24+ hours straight. Temps peak at 41C. I did OC the processor to 3.6 on all six cores with 1.296 volts, and tried Prime again (which I hit the 41C peak during).

Video card: HIS 5850 reference with stock clocks.

Hard drives: 2x 1.5TB WD Green, 2x1TB WD Green, 1x250 GB old ass WD, 1x 640GB WD Black (boot)

Optical: 1x Samsung S223 dvd burner

PSU: Corsair HX1000

4x92mm fans intake for board, 3x92mm fans for hard drives, 2x120mm higher rpm exhaust fans. Ambient temp is 71F (22C) or lower. Heatsink is a Noctua C12P SE-14 with high rpm 120mm Top Motor fan. I have no overheating issues.

Windows has crashed on me for whatever reasons, yet I never get a dump file to look at. Tonight I just dealt with it first locking when trying to boot (actually kept freezing in BIOS), and it would not respond to any keyboard inputs. Finally I unplugged all drives, and it responded. Tried plugging in the DVD drive to the Gsata port (where it resides) and it locked the board. Removed, board still locked. Tried putting it in the regular SB port, board locked. Removed, board booted. Tried hooking up hard drive in SB poart; board locked. Removed; board ran fine. Tried connecting again; board booted, but could not see drive. Tried all ports on the board, HDD not found. Tried optical drive, it was found. Reconnected all drives, mother F***er booted and I'm now typing this.

I also have an issue where I get a BIOS message when booting that the system failed to boot due to overclocking, when everything is running stock.

C1 support, C&Q, and Virtualization are turned on. I have no noticed any trending to this, aside from the whole power being off thing. I would seriously appreciate any help you guys have. My guess is either defective board or extremely buggy BIOS. Again, RAM, CPU, and Vid card have all been tested fine previously, so I highly doubt that's the issue.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Electroneng

Sounds like a power supply issue to me! Check all connectors at the power supply and to the motherboard. Especially check the eight pin connector that attaches to the motherboard near the case exhaust fan.

I have experienced this exact same problem with another PC. Turned out to be a problem with the eight pin connector.

If this turns up nothing, I would disconnect all unnecessary drives (leave only the boot drive) and focus on stability here! Use only 4gb of ram, While in the bios setup, look at all voltages to see an anomalies. If the problem goes away, reinsert the other 4 gb of ram and increase the CPU-NB Freq. to 2200 and up the CPU-NB voltage to 1.2v. 
I have had issues with a 790 chipset board and 8gb of ram in the past and this is how I solved it.

If nothing shows up, maybe try a bios reflash.

Still having problems after this, (since you know all the ram and other components are good), you may need to RMA the board.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Thanks for that.

I forgot to mention that I have tried another (850 watt non-modular) PSU previously, and the same thing happened. I reseated RAM last night...my previous write up was kind of crappy (lack of sleep). I checked PSU connections last night, and they all seemed tight, but I can check again.

RAM was reseated, but I have not tried 4 GB. I'll be checking PSU voltages, but everything looks fine in BIOS. I tried reflashing before (in windows...should probably try through BIOS) when F2 didn't take properly.

Last night I tried the boot drive only, and that didn't make a bit of difference, as the computer still locked, then didn't see the drive. I also noticed this morning that I have constant hard drive use, despite idling. However, this might be tangential and just a windows issue.

Once I find out more I'll post more. God knows I don't want to RMA this board, it would make the third AM3 board in 6 months that would need it (two MSI before, switched to this, and possible RMA? Not happy). I'll try upping the voltage a tad and see how it works.

Thanks again for the reply. I'll post once I know more.


----------



## fidof650

P1 has been updated.

To add your information to the Member Spread sheet, please follow this link to the input form. Duplicate entries will be deleted in favor of the one with the most recent timestamps therefore please make sure all entries are complete. Members with reason for multiple entries (i.e. running multiple systems) please PM fidof650 stating your reason for multiple entries to avoid deletion. This will eventually replace the above member list. Enjoy!


----------



## Electroneng

To Unexploded Cow:

Always flash bios through bios! Q-flash actually works pretty well!

This would not effect your stability in Bios but definitely at the OS level. When you changed the motherboard, you did reinstall windows correct?
Most times, windows will boot up after a motherboard replacement and automatically install the new drivers but it will not be totally stable. Doing a repair also will not solve all issues.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

No, I haven't reinstalled yet as I've been lazy and working too much. I actually had planned to start the reinstallation tonight, starting with a reflashed F2 BIOS through Q flash. It's Win7 Ultimate 64 btw. Mostly I've taken the lazy way so far, and am surprised Windows has lasted this long (about a month) without reinstallation. Previous board was an MSI 790FX-GD70.

UPDATE: Reflashed BIOS, and no difference aside from now getting the Overclocking error whenever restarting Windows. Hard Drives are all seen as I switched from AHCI to IDE. Windows is definitely running faster, and was reinstalled as well. CPU/NB voltage was upped from 1.15 to 1.21, although it didn't seem to make a difference. At least now it's not being an unpredictable sloth, although time will tell by tomorrow, when it spends several hours in hibernation.


----------



## JW Pepper

Hello all, new to the forum here and new owner of the UD5. I was looking at the heat pipes when I took them off to put some AS5 and Ceramique on the NB/SB and mosfets, respectively and noticed the NB/SB blocks had screws under the felt pads. The top parts of the NB/SB blocks appear to come apart. I also noticed how close the UD7 heat pipe assembly is to the UD5's. I don't have dimensions but they look interchangeable. I was curious as to whether or not the NB block assembly from the UD7 with the water block would work on the UD5. I sent an email to the Gigabyte tech support and am waiting to hear a reply as to whether or not it would work and if the part is available. While I wait for their reply I was curious as to all of your thoughts. Thanks in advance.


----------



## stasio

BIOS GA-890FXA-UD5(v2.0)- F3 is out.


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stasio*


BIOS GA-890FXA-UD5(v2.0)- F3 is out.


Thanks Stasio you the Man!


----------



## Stilly

I updated to the new BIOS f3 and it now holds it's setting on re-boot with turbo boost off all cores remain at the proper settings. Core 0 does not go to 4.00 it stays at 16.

Also USB Keyboard seems to work and let you into the BIOS. I have tried it three times and no glitches.

Good job Gigabyte!!!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilly* 
I updated to the new BIOS f3 and it now holds it's setting on re-boot with turbo boost off all cores remain at the proper settings. Core 0 does not go to 4.00 it stays at 16.

Also USB Keyboard seems to work and let you into the BIOS. I have tried it three times and no glitches.

Good job Gigabyte!!!









Nice!


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

UD5 on the way from newegg with some of the PI black ram recomended in OP!


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


UD5 on the way from newegg with some of the PI black ram recomended in OP!


nice!! i have that ram and love it


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

New Members added

Spreadsheet proofread/corrected and moved to members list (replaces the validated members section)

Links updated

First UD5 Pic removed to improve load time (still available via link)
Keep up the good work!


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JW Pepper* 
I don't have dimensions but they look interchangeable. I was curious as to whether or not the NB block assembly from the UD7 with the water block would work on the UD5. I sent an email to the Gigabyte tech support and am waiting to hear a reply as to whether or not it would work and if the part is available. While I wait for their reply I was curious as to all of your thoughts. Thanks in advance.









I was wondering the same thing. Keep us posted on what you find out.


----------



## decimator

I ordered some G.Skill Flares from Newegg last night







. Should be here tomorrow. Can't wait to start overclocking







.


----------



## xcooling

*F3 Bios*
Update CPU AGESA 3.7.0.1
Improve AMD PhenomII CPU performance & memory OC ability


----------



## UnexplodedCow

F3 BIOS working much, much better here. Hibernate no longer causes multiple BSOD and BIOS settings to revert. USB KB support also works muuuuch better....removing my old PS/2 KB now. RAM settings still were a bit wonky when running at 1600. OCing feels the same, and turbo boost now kicks in properly to put the processor at 3.6 instead of 3.4. This board took shape overnight for me, and is acting extremely rock solid now.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xcooling*


F3 Bios

Update CPU AGESA 3.7.0.1

Improve AMD PhenomII CPU performance & memory OC ability


This is more of a mandatory update.


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xcooling* 
*F3 Bios*
Update CPU AGESA 3.7.0.1
Improve AMD PhenomII CPU performance & memory OC ability

Too bad theyre only for UD5 currently


----------



## ToxicAdam

Just updated!


----------



## gooface

this is the highlight of this month I was sick of F2, I'm in love with F3!!!! NO MORE DOWNCLOCKING OF THE CPU OMG ITS UNREAL!!!


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooface*


this is the highlight of this month I was sick of F2, I'm in love with F3!!!! NO MORE DOWNCLOCKING OF THE CPU OMG ITS UNREAL!!!


I agree! I think this might be the last/best BIOS for this board I will use. I have been testing things all day and so far it's wonderful!!!!!


----------



## xcooling

ive been able to run a lower "CPU Voltage Control" on the F3 bios (+0.175v) instead of (+0.200v)

Ill be doing more testing, hoping it no longer has the 300fsb limit, which F1 and F2 has... will let u guys know.

BTW: for good amd ram, get OCZ Reaper's.. cheap and they do 1600mhz @cas7 cmd:1t, and 1600mhz @cas6 cmd:2t


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


I ordered some G.Skill Flares from Newegg last night







. Should be here tomorrow. Can't wait to start overclocking







.


Can't wait to hear how they perform so I can add them to P1.

Keep us posted!


----------



## JW Pepper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I was wondering the same thing. Keep us posted on what you find out.


Will do, been a few days now and no response yet. I'd bet a dollar it'll work.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Can't wait to hear how they perform so I can add them to P1.

Keep us posted!










Hasn't arrived yet. I'm used to Newegg shipping from their Jersey warehouse and arriving the next day since I live in Jersey. Apparently the RAM kit is coming all the way from Cali and I chose free shipping, so probably not for a couple days







.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JW Pepper* 
Will do, been a few days now and no response yet. I'd bet a dollar it'll work.

If it works it will block the top PCIe x1 slot but I'm not using it anyway so as far as I'm concerned its a win if it works and is available.

I'd also be interested in soldering on the post code reader that was on the prototype and is still on the UD7. I'm not sure why it was striped off the UD5 but I suspect it was to keep the UD7 feature list that much longer than the UD5 in order to justify the price jump. If you ask me, I'd pay more for the UD5 than the UD7 based on form factor alone. The XL ATX is a major handicap because it limits my case options. I like small and powerful. Give me a GA-890-ITX so I can plant that 1090T in the dash of my car and I'll be a happy man! Hey I can dream right? Of course I'd use pixy dust as a cooling solution!!!

But I digress.


----------



## popncali

just updated my bio to f3, my cpu is now running at full speed even when my performance boost is disable.


----------



## crunchie

Mine too. Got a lot better OC too now. 4.4Ghz so far


----------



## Cobain325

Bah, I want some F3'ness. I really can't see how they favour the "premium" board over the "half missing" board.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Bah, I want some F3'ness. I really can't see how they favour the "premium" board over the "half missing" board.


He hhey!! cut it out


----------



## xcooling

More people own UD5's than UD7's..

The UD5 is a way better designed board, its ATX.. and out of all the 890fx boards its has the best layout and design


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

ud5 and pi blacks out for delivery this morning! ordered on the 15th with free shiping, new egg is 2 good...


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


ud5 and pi blacks out for delivery this morning! ordered on the 15th with free shiping, new egg is 2 good...


Hope you post a pic of that when your all set-up.....


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


new egg is 2 good...


Just wish they'd ship o'seas


----------



## ryman546

To everyone running trifire with 3 cards not 1 5970 and 1 5870. This board goes X8 X8 X16. Should i run the most powerful card in the x16? Does it matter? Also should the display always be plugged into the top card aka x8?


----------



## fidof650

F3 BIOS is up and running!!!

Haven't had a chance to tinker with it yet but it took all my old settings strait out of the gate without issue and survived a long BFBC2 session.

I'd love to see some F2 vs F3 comparisons that demonstrate specific improvements. (i.e. 4Ghz is stable at 1.35v in F3 but required 1.4v in F2 etc.).

Rock on Gigabyte!!!


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


F3 BIOS is up and running!!!

Haven't had a chance to tinker with it yet but it took all my old settings strait out of the gate without issue and survived a long BFBC2 session.

I'd love to see some F2 vs F3 comparisons that demonstrate specific improvements. (i.e. 4Ghz is stable at 1.35v in F3 but required 1.4v in F2 etc.).

Rock on Gigabyte!!!


Fido,

Two things that I noticed right away are that with a USB keyboard I now can get into the BIOS everytime and with f2 I couldn't. Also with f3 when turbo is turned off core0 holds it's setting and with f2 it would go to 4.00x after a reboot. I have not tinkered with overclocking it yet.

I'm sure everyone is still testing it out but so far I'm very happy with f3. YMMV.

Tim


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

just got the board and my http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231351

will it run with those stock timings of 6-8-6-24?


----------



## popncali

So I finally started overclocking my cpu(my first time ever ocing a cpu), I got it to 3.8 ghz on 1.38 vcore, its running pretty stable right now but my tempin2 temp is a little high compare to my other temp, should I be worry?










max temp on the right btw


----------



## ryman546

Nobody is running trifire on this board?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Hey guys. :U

I got a UD5, 1090t, 5850, and some G.Skill Ripjaws yesterday.









Right now I'm running at 4.0ghz at 1.425v. I've tested in a Prime blend for about 20 minutes, hopefully when I do it longer it'll still survive.







I've had some BSOD's but I'm pretty sure it's from my GPU being overclocked a bit too far and dumb ATI driver errors, haha.

Anyway, I'm wondering about the max temperature for the Northbridge. I'm assuming the Northbridge is Tmpin2 on HWMonitor, and if so it's reaching about 54 degrees on full load while the CPU (tmpin1?) reaches 53.

I wish I could find my Antec spot cool fan, I could really use it right now. :U


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


Nobody is running trifire on this board?


Quick question, how well does your SSD perform on the UD7 (SB850 chipset) ?


----------



## JW Pepper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I was wondering the same thing. Keep us posted on what you find out.


I got impatient and contacted Gigabyte customer service vs. waiting for an email from their tech support. In broken engrish I was told by the CS rep, after he consulted with tech support, that the NB waterblock assembly on the UD7 isn't compatible/available on the UD5. I have my doubts, next time I get ambitious and want to drag out my mobo, I'm going to take centerline dimensions of the screwholes on the underside of the NB block. I got the feeling my question wasn't welcome. Any of you UD7 owners feel like measuring the centerline screwhole dimensions on the underside of your NB block assemblies when/if you have your heatpipe assembly off your board? Yes, I'm skeptical of the response I received and stubborn.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I'm pretty sure the Enzotech MTS-88 will fit the MOSFET section of this board just fine and cool is better than the stock part, although I have not measured yet. If I have time this weekend, I will take the board out, measure, and let everyone know.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835708016

As for the NB heatsink, I'm wondering how large it would really have to be to dissipate ~20 watts of heat. The SB kicks out ~ 5 watts....easily cooled with a low profile heatsink, although I don't like it being under the PEG 1 slot. I just finished adding a couple fans to the side of the case (now have 4x92mm, each pushing about 35 cfm, using a Chieftec Mesh full tower) and that seemed to drop overall temps. Using Everest Ultimate stability test for about 10 minutes showed a TMPIN0 max of 32C, TMPIN1 was 41 (if this is CPU, the core was measuring 30C at the same time), and TMPIN2 topped out at 32C, and room temp was around 72F (22C). Not bad temps for stock cooling, but I would really like better temps under load, especially considering the coolish room.

I have an old P4 heatsink I may be taking some cutting and drilling tools to in order to try and make a large NB heatsink, and I have some old stock sitting around for the SB. So far can anyone confirm that Enzotech MOSFET sink working with the UD5? Sorry for the long post, but this is usually how it goes for me...hope you people enjoy the book







.


----------



## esxiproject

Okay. I've tried everything. Does anyone know if this board can boot from a USB flash drive?


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esxiproject*


Okay. I've tried everything. Does anyone know if this board can boot from a USB flash drive?


Did you try hitting F12 and going into the boot menu with the flash drive plugged in?


----------



## esxiproject

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stilly*


Did you try hitting F12 and going into the boot menu with the flash drive plugged in?


I have a bootable USB Flash drive that is recognized as the boot device on another box with an old MSI mainboard. On the GA890FXA-UD5 it never gets started. I have tried all of the USB boot selections in an F12 - USB HDD, USB FDD, USB ZIP, and USB CDROM. I have also tried both front and back panel USB ports. Perhaps someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

amd 550black unlocked quad, Deneb B50, stable at almost 3.7Ghz, G Skill Pi Black memory stable at 1600 with sweet timings of 6-8-6-24-1







that beats the crap out of my previous best CPU OC of 3.33ghz and DDR2 pi blacks at stock timings


----------



## ryman546

dumb question i know but i couldnt find in the manual. The LED Readout on the board has "FF" Where can i find what that means.

also heres my cpu validation it says ur needing on the front page.


----------



## crunchie

Pretty sure it means all systems are go. Similar to DFI's output.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
also heres my cpu validation it says ur needing on the front page.

A screen shot of CPU-Z is not the same as a CPU-Z validation.

In CPU-Z click the Validate button and follow the steps. You will be given a validation page like this that provides your system stats. The link to this page is what we need for validation. On the lower left side of the validation page is code that you can include in your post that will render a validation image. like this:

which also serves as a link to your validation page while also displaying your system stats.

Hope this helps!


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

lovin it


----------



## ryman546




----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cobain325*


Bah, I want some F3'ness. I really can't see how they favour the "premium" board over the "half missing" board.


----------



## Cobain325

FF would 00 in the booklet.
Mines buried in a pile of boxes but I'm fairly sure it means nothing, eg. finished post.


----------



## xcooling

FF = F***ing Fine (ie. system posted and normal)


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *esxiproject*


I have a bootable USB Flash drive that is recognized as the boot device on another box with an old MSI mainboard. On the GA890FXA-UD5 it never gets started. I have tried all of the USB boot selections in an F12 - USB HDD, USB FDD, USB ZIP, and USB CDROM. I have also tried both front and back panel USB ports. Perhaps someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help.


Did you resolve this issue?

I was able to install Windows 7 from a bootable USB (SanDisck; some work better than others) so I know that it works if you set the boot order correctly and set the hard drive priority in the right order as well (USB first). I have done this via front and rear USB.

Side note: If you forget to switch back the settings when you're done you may experience a system hang issue when restarting because it's looking for an OS on the external. I have only observed this problem when "Restarting"; it has not presented for me after a hard reboot (my preferred method anyway).

I have not played around with booting and OS from a flash drive on this board yet (i.e. Ubuntu et al) nor have I heard anyone talk about it. What are you trying to accomplish with your bootable USB? Install, OS, System tools, etc.?

Hope this helps.


----------



## decimator

Got my Flares today. Will report back later tonight on how they're running.


----------



## MicH_NL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *esxiproject* 
I have a bootable USB Flash drive that is recognized as the boot device on another box with an old MSI mainboard. On the GA890FXA-UD5 it never gets started. I have tried all of the USB boot selections in an F12 - USB HDD, USB FDD, USB ZIP, and USB CDROM. I have also tried both front and back panel USB ports. Perhaps someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help.

Do you see it at the harddisk boot sequence menu?


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xcooling* 
FF = F***ing Fine (ie. system posted and normal)

i like to see that as "fully functional"


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Got my Flares today. Will report back later tonight on how they're running.


Great!!!

P1 updated with new members and text revisions.

Validated Members spreadsheet updated.


----------



## decimator

Sorry I couldn't update you guys on how these babies were running last night. Apparently my widescreen monitor won't display the BIOS menu...I know everything is working fine because I can see the splash screen for the mobo on startup, though. I'll have to switch back to a 4:3 aspect ratio monitor to do some tweaking.

It's a real nice kit of RAM, but the fans for them won't fit because of the huge VenX in the way.


----------



## Stilly

This is without a overclock but is validation.


----------



## fidof650

Validated Member spreadsheet updated on P1.

Feel free to add or update your stats with this form.


----------



## agonggo

I'm just putting together a UD5 based system. My primary HDD is an Intel X25-M SDD. My secondary is a Samsung F3. My problem is that my motherboard can't detect the Samsung F3 using the blue SATA ports. It is only in the white port (SATA2) that it can be detected and only in IDE mode. My X25 is detected w/o a problem using AHCI.

Any ideas what is wrong? I am using Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit.

Thanks...


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *agonggo*


I'm just putting together a UD5 based system. My primary HDD is an Intel X25-M SDD. My secondary is a Samsung F3. My problem is that my motherboard can't detect the Samsung F3 using the blue SATA ports. It is only in the white port (SATA2) that it can be detected and only in IDE mode. My X25 is detected w/o a problem using AHCI.

Any ideas what is wrong? I am using Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit.

Thanks...


This is no help to you, but I have the same problem with my (mechanical) drives.
I tried to install in AHCI mode but after post, none of the drives were recognised.
I finally put the raptor in the white port and it was seen ok. No idea why.


----------



## agonggo

Thanks for the info Cruchie. Could this be a BIOS problem? I am using the latest F3 BIOS for my mother \\board.


----------



## crunchie

I reckon it is.
Once I had done what I posted above, I installed the AHCI drivers and installed the OS, shut down the pc and then plugged the raptor into the blue port and it booted fine.


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

any suggestions on how to push my 550/b50 any further? currently at 201x18 at 1.5 volts, northbridge is +.25 i believe


----------



## fid

Pretty thorough comparison between UD7 and the Asus Board. I have been looking forward to a UD7/1095T combo (and requesting to join your list) but was slightly disheartened by some of Gigabyte's lacking areas. I've never owned a Gigabyte product and have felt that I wanted to swear off Asus (posting from an M2N32SLI that has given me nothing but fits since I purchased it 4 years ago).

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...90fxa_ud7.html

Any thoughts about the switch / upgrade would be appreciated. I've enjoyed reading this thread (time and time again)...


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fid*


Pretty thorough comparison between UD7 and the Asus Board. I have been looking forward to a UD7/1095T combo (and requesting to join your list) but was slightly disheartened by some of Gigabyte's lacking areas. I've never owned a Gigabyte product and have felt that I wanted to swear off Asus (posting from an M2N32SLI that has given me nothing but fits since I purchased it 4 years ago).

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...90fxa_ud7.html

Any thoughts about the switch / upgrade would be appreciated. I've enjoyed reading this thread (time and time again)...


Thank you for posting this article, it will be added to P1 as will your name.

My initial response should come as no surprise to regular readers of this thread. Unless you plan to run an X4 crossfire system I would recommend the UD5. The UD5 and the UD7 are essentially the same board. Although the UD7 has more bells and whistles to justify its $70.00 price jump I haven't seen any functional performance gain for that expense. 
Regarding the ASUS in the article, I (like many people in this thread) considered this board before making my decision. Again, for me it came down to function and despite it's bells and whistles I haven't seen any demonstration that depicted a functional disparity between the two that couldn't also be the result of myriad other variables (i.e. components like CPUs, Memory, Capacitors, etc. are manufactured to standards that fall into an acceptable range of function resulting in performance discrepancies between identical products).

At the end of the day my decision was based on the following:
I have have never had a gigabyte board fail
I have no need for a X4 crossfire (ruled out the UD7)
The UD5 was $40.00 less that the ASUS despite providing the same capabilities (save BIOS fan controls +1 ASUS)
The UD5 uses the traditional ATX form factor rather than the UD7s XL-ATX which results in limited case options.
Gigabyte customer service and support has always been responsive to me (particularly when I was a fledgling enthusiast and had lots of questions) and has maintained (and recently revamped and improved) a usable OEM website.
A side note: the UD5 seems to be getting BIOS updates sooner than the UD7.

Having said all that, I would not hesitate to buy a UD7 for a customer for whom money poses no object and has a desire for a top end AMD build and wants a X4 crossfire system and/or the extra bells and whistles. blingbling

I would also like to explore the viability of fitting the UD7 water block and post code display to the UD5.

I have also read posts in other treads lamenting the pour build quality of the ASUS boards. Such complaints include loose components mounted on the board and pour fitment of heat-sinks.

In fairness, I'll also volunteer that Gigabyte has had some growing pains with their BIOS. This has been steadily improved upon with each new release but i understand that there are still some things needing clearing up (I've not run into any problems with any Version F1 - F3 so someone else will need to elaborate on this).

Hope this helps and welcome!


----------



## fid

First of all, thanks for the warm welcome...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


[*]I have have never had a gigabyte board fail

[*]Gigabyte customer service and support has always been responsive to me (particularly when I was a fledgling enthusiast and had lots of questions) and has maintained (and recently revamped and improved) a usable OEM website.


That's the kind of stuff people like to read about

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Having said all that, I would not hesitate to buy a UD7 for a customer for whom money poses no object and has a desire for a top end AMD build and wants a X4 crossfire system and/or the extra bells and whistles. blingbling

I would also like to explore the viability of fitting the UD7 water block and post code display to the UD5.


I agree. One reason I liked the UD7, aside from trying to locate a case for XL length, was the water block and post code display. Although I will never X4 crossfire, it may be worth the difference to me.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I have also read posts in other treads lamenting the pour build quality of the ASUS boards. Such complaints include loose components mounted on the board and pour fitment of heat-sinks.


Agreed again. I'm sure ASUS makes fine products, my current board runs but has ALWAYS been extremely finicky almost to the point of being fragile. For many, this seemed to be a common problem.

Their current north-bridge HS issue is almost a joke. Although hearsay, several users have claimed that they are told by ASUS - if they 'fix' it themselves, they won't void the warranty (unless they cause damage). Wonder if I can get that in writing









Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


In fairness, I'll also volunteer that Gigabyte has had some growing pains with their BIOS. This has been steadily improved upon with each new release but i understand that there are still some things needing clearing up (I've not run into any problems with any Version F1 - F3 so someone else will need to elaborate on this).


Fair enough.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Hope this helps and welcome!


I appreciate the feedback, the points and insight.

You are most helpful.

P.S. - Thanks for the excellent FP organization as well. It helps more people than you know.


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fid*


Pretty thorough comparison between UD7 and the Asus Board. I have been looking forward to a UD7/1095T combo (and requesting to join your list) but was slightly disheartened by some of Gigabyte's lacking areas. I've never owned a Gigabyte product and have felt that I wanted to swear off Asus (posting from an M2N32SLI that has given me nothing but fits since I purchased it 4 years ago).

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...90fxa_ud7.html

Any thoughts about the switch / upgrade would be appreciated. I've enjoyed reading this thread (time and time again)...


Welcome Fid,

I have the UD5 and couldn't be happier. This board is amazing and with the f3 bios does everything I have asked of it. I like you used to be a ASUS fan and can tell you both are good companies. Gigabyte seems to be (to me) the up and coming leader of the pack.

Whatever decision you make let us know how it goes for you. And good luck!

Tim


----------



## Metonymy

Yup... I'm about to jump from the UD3H to the UD5 board myself. Selling my UD3H to a buddy who I am building a system for.

Can't wait to get it and set it up. I've read nothing but good things about this board.


----------



## fid

If anything you guys have drilled into my head, is the UD5 should be (more equally) considered.

It would make the case decision much easier.

Thanks for the replies.


----------



## decimator

Does anybody know what the documented max safe NB temp is? I know everybody throws around numbers like 60C, but I haven't seen this number actually documented anywhere. The reason I'm asking is because I've seen my NB temp (assuming NB temp is TEMPIN2 in HWMonitor) reach 60-61C max during Prime95 runs.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Bah, problems coming again. Got a lovely BSOD PFN_List_Corrupt error in Win7 64 last night. That's usually hard drive or RAM. I was able to test a couple drives, and Windows shat itself again, this time with Page File in Nonpaged area. Sooo, RAM went back to stock 1600 speeds (8-8-8-24 CR2 with 1.69 volts instead of 1.65), and I need to try Memtest to ensure this stuff is working with the board, because it worked fine for months on the previous MSI. 
It's Corsair Dominator "Intel" RAM, blue spine heatsinks. Link is below. Part number for modules is CMD8GX3M4A1600C8. It is on Gigabyte's QVL list (exact number), so it _should_ have been tested working with the board. I'll start some Memtest runs around middle of today, and see where that takes me, but any more ideas are welcome. It seemed to be doing fine, but got a Windows update....and it starts the crap all over again, despite the BIOS revision.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145267

This RAM kit was a present, so if they are indeed bad, an RMA process is sure to be fun, as I'm no longer in touch with the person who gave them, and I've had them, maybe, 3 months, and got them new.


----------



## Blostorm

Anyone in here tried the SLI hack on this board?


----------



## fid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
Bah, problems coming again. Got a lovely BSOD PFN_List_Corrupt error in Win7 64 last night. That's usually hard drive or RAM. I was able to test a couple drives, and Windows shat itself again, this time with Page File in Nonpaged area. Sooo, RAM went back to stock 1600 speeds (8-8-8-24 CR2 with 1.69 volts instead of 1.65), and I need to try Memtest to ensure this stuff is working with the board, because it worked fine for months on the previous MSI.
It's Corsair Dominator "Intel" RAM, blue spine heatsinks. Link is below. Part number for modules is CMD8GX3M4A1600C8. It is on Gigabyte's QVL list (exact number), so it _should_ have been tested working with the board. I'll start some Memtest runs around middle of today, and see where that takes me, but any more ideas are welcome. It seemed to be doing fine, but got a Windows update....and it starts the crap all over again, despite the BIOS revision.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145267

This RAM kit was a present, so if they are indeed bad, an RMA process is sure to be fun, as I'm no longer in touch with the person who gave them, and I've had them, maybe, 3 months, and got them new.

Man, do I feel your pain. I wish there was something I could help with this but it reminds me of a discussion I've had with colleagues for some time now.

It's 20 'friggin 10 already. According to AC Clarke, we were suppose to be headed back to one of the gas giants for a second trip.









No... We still get Blue Screens (and camouflaged Blue Screens).
Windows (even safe mode) has no good diagnostics built-in for testing. Its back to memtest for hours hoping something shows up.









I'm just getting back from your journey where 7's event logs were less than helpful. But by golly they show connection back to the mothership and say I was genuine, 'cause, well ... that's important!









Best of luck tracking this down and let us know what you find out.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

*UPDATE*

Got to spend a cool 9 hours at work today...straight (no breaks/lunch). That was fun. So, get home, work on my car.....yeah, that's a bust (literally), too. FYI...potholes may make a car go airborne, followed by the breaking of front suspension components. Sen. Byrd....the state is better off without you.
Onto the computer: currently it's spent the past 4 hours running loops of Memtest+ 4.10, passing loop 3 now with zero errors. Timings are 7-8-7-18, CR2, 1.69 volts, DDR3 1600 speeds. I somehow think 7 is acting funky on this thing, or perhaps it's some oddity with drives. I've only checked two of those so far, and have 4 more to go (all 1TB or larger...oy). But, I doubted the RAM was bad to start with as I ran my old system a little while before the old board croaked, and it was fine.
HDD are set to run in IDE mode (my mistake when installing Windows, as I'd just flashed to F3 BIOS). I haven't had success in getting AHCI to work post install, although I've witness no performance difference between the two, unless when trying to load two or more things at once from the same drive; in which case it's more serially performed instead of everything loading more slowly. No great loss, if at all.
I am wondering if having "virtualization" enabled might have something to do with the BSOD, which I don't really use often, so it can be disabled. Onboard sound is also disabled, due to using a PCI X-Fi. Serial and parallel ports are also disabled to free up any IRQ oddities, although I've left both LAN ports enabled. I can start poking around furiously in the BIOS to figure things out, but I think I'll mostly have to wait a revision or two for this board to fully solidify. Still...this revision is by far the best in terms of stability and performance for me.

And thanks for the well-wishing, Fid....I'll try to keep everyone posted on progress as I figure things out.

Now to work the proc and RAM more under some Supcom!


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Does anybody know what the documented max safe NB temp is? I know everybody throws around numbers like 60C, but I haven't seen this number actually documented anywhere. The reason I'm asking is because I've seen my NB temp (assuming NB temp is TEMPIN2 in HWMonitor) reach 60-61C max during Prime95 runs.


Well, since nobody knew, I questioned Gigabyte tech support directly and here is the answer.










Seems a little high to me...Tator Tot said that according to the AMD white papers, the 890FX chipset NB can take up to 75*C. I'm inclined to just go with that number since 80*C seems a little ridiculous...


----------



## Metonymy

My UD5 will be arriving Thursday from Newegg.

That is all.


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


*UPDATE*

Timings are 7-8-7-18, CR2, 1.69 volts, DDR3 1600 speeds. I somehow think 7 is acting funky on this thing, or perhaps it's some oddity with drives. I've only checked two of those so far, and have 4 more to go (all 1TB or larger...oy). But, I doubted the RAM was bad to start with as I ran my old system a little while before the old board croaked, and it was fine. 
HDD are set to run in IDE mode (my mistake when installing Windows, as I'd just flashed to F3 BIOS). I haven't had success in getting AHCI to work post install, although I've witness no performance difference between the two, unless when trying to load two or more things at once from the same drive; in which case it's more serially performed instead of everything loading more slowly. No great loss, if at all.


1.69V? I'm running mine at the same settings at 1.4V.

Also, AHCI will not work on any board unless you re-install with it enabled (as covered earlier in this thread).


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

3.7ghz has been stable for some time now. bad company 2 is butter. the only problem i have had is with gta episodes from LC, but that might be because i force anti aliasing in my ccc and i guess that game cant use aa?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam* 
1.69V? I'm running mine at the same settings at 1.4V.

Also, AHCI will not work on any board unless you re-install with it enabled (as covered earlier in this thread).

Stock for my RAM is 1.65. I gave it a touch more to ensure stability, as I tried upping the base clock to 250, and ran the RAM with the 1333 divider, and it didn't like doing that with tightened timings on 1.65.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Hey guys, just wanted to pop in and say hi real quick since I'll be applying soon. Just bought the UD5 and 4gb of G.Skill Ripjaws combo for $182 on Newegg so I'll be sending in my CPU-z validation in a couple of days









In the meanwhile I'll be reading through the other 69 pages of this thread lol.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ebolamonkey3*


Hey guys, just wanted to pop in and say hi real quick since I'll be applying soon. Just bought the UD5 and 4gb of G.Skill Ripjaws combo for $182 on Newegg so I'll be sending in my CPU-z validation in a couple of days









In the meanwhile I'll be reading through the other 69 pages of this thread lol.


@ebolamonkey3 - As someone posted earlier in this thread... "Pack a lunch" lol /$182 combo ?!?!!! That's a great deal... Wish I caught that one!

Otherwise:
I'll be updating P1 soon so keep those Validations, article sightings, memory reviews, and other useful information coming! 
You guys are doing a great job!


----------



## Metonymy

So I ordered my UD5 on Monday. Today newegg puts out the 10% off mobos deal. The UD5 is included. UGH.

Did a chat session and asked for a credit. They at least gave me $10 as compensation since I ordered before the official sale start date (better than $0).


----------



## jjceo

I've built a new system with the 1090T and I am really enjoying it. I am clocking at 4.041 GHz. Cupid hardware consistently shows core temps to be 8 to 9 degrees C below the BIOS and EasyTune 6. Which is the more accurate and more important, Core temps or CPU Temp. Right now under general use the cores are 24 degrees C and the CPU is 33 Degrees C while burning a movie. 
My Computer Build:
Cooler Master HAF 932 Full Tower Black Case
ULTRA X4 750W POWER SUPPLY MODULAR
Corsair 8GB DDR3 PC12800 1600MHz (4x2GB) Class 9
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
Sapphire Radeon HD 5850 1GB TOXIC Ed. DDR5 PCIe
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition 3.2Ghz CPU
Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 AMD 890FX Socket AM3 MB
Corsair Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler
Seagate 1TB Serial ATA HD 7200/32MB/SATA-3G
ASUS 24X DVDRW SATA OEM 2 installed
Seagate 2 TB Serial ATA HD 2 installed and 2 more ready to be installed
LOGISYS Computer CLK12BL2 12" DUAL COLD CATHODE KIT - OEM


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Anybody know the max safe 24/7 voltage for the CPU-NB?


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


Anybody know the max safe 24/7 voltage for the CPU-NB?


I'd assume that when the voltage turns red in bios that your past or close to it.

BTW, I have temps for the TMPIN2 with a vertical mounted megahalems sucking air through the UD7 heatsink.
Seems to be about 10c lower that what it was with water cooling. The max temps are from turning the 2 fans way down (just enough volts to keep spinning) for 1 run.


----------



## BeepBeep

Ambient temps play a big part in the above post... low temps are easy to achieve with ambient below 10-15c


----------



## YangerD

Seems like the UD5/UD7 are great overclocking boards


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
Ambient temps play a big part in the above post... low temps are easy to achieve with ambient below 10-15c









Not really, Cause the TMPIN2 temps that were 50c+ when I was using watercooling were at them same time of day with roughly the same ambient temps.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Does anybody know why auto voltages aren't working for me? I set my CPU to 4.0ghz and put my voltages on auto and they never changed. xD I hope it's not some stupid glitch.


----------



## cutty1998

Damn, I am not really an AMD guy ,But This Leo platform is really enticing !!!!!!!!!


----------



## Metonymy

And at long last, my official UD5 screenshot. This was during my resting after I re-set my overclock on the new board.


















And an official validation...

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1276254


----------



## Shroomalistic

just ordered my ud5, got that and 8gb of the gskill eco 7-8-7 1600 stuff as a b-day present from my mother in law.


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic*


just ordered my ud5, got that and 8gb of the gskill eco 7-8-7 1600 stuff as a b-day present from my mother in law.


8gb? Jealous. Now figure out how to OC it for me, because I'm lazy and busy







.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic*


just ordered my ud5, got that and 8gb of the gskill eco 7-8-7 1600 stuff as a b-day present from my mother in law.


That's exactly what I have in my rig.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic*


just ordered my ud5, got that and 8gb of the gskill eco 7-8-7 1600 stuff as a b-day present from my mother in law.


Nice! I dig your sig rig as well... I to, upgraded from an A79A-S (still run it as a workhorse) and have been delighted.

P1 updated!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Has anyone noticed that Gigabyte now has information for the 2.1 revision on their site? They played around with the RAM slots, as the new version is specified to do DDR 1866 with all 4 DIMMS populated, instead of just 2 for the 2.0 version.


----------



## darkwaffle

Has anyone had any issues running dual channel in DIMM slots 3 and 4, or tried at all? My build is halted atm because I've got to get some other stuff ready in the room first, but I'm pretty sure my ram won't be able to fit in DIMM 1 and 2 thanks to my NH-D14. Figure it won't be a problem, but I have some sort of lingering notion from previous generations that RAM performance wasn't quite optimal in "later" DIMM slots. Don't remember exactly


----------



## Lee17

I want to know if the new series of G.Skill, the Flare series, work great with this board?

Someone have tried? If not... Am I better to try it or switch to the Pi Series?

Thanks


----------



## darkwaffle

Nice catch on the rev2.1, luckily the only difference in the entire spec sheet is the potential ram speed increase to the other two DIMM slots. So I don't feel like I'm missing out


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lee17*


I want to know if the new series of G.Skill, the Flare series, work great with this board?

Someone have tried? If not... Am I better to try it or switch to the Pi Series?

Thanks










Go for the ECO series. I've heard nothing but greatness for them.


----------



## Lee17

I don't know why but... i don't like the eco serie







. It is maybe because I don't see anyone showing my why they are so great...but they are cheap...

Everyone, you have to change my mind!


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darkwaffle*


Has anyone had any issues running dual channel in DIMM slots 3 and 4, or tried at all? My build is halted atm because I've got to get some other stuff ready in the room first, but I'm pretty sure my ram won't be able to fit in DIMM 1 and 2 thanks to my NH-D14. Figure it won't be a problem, but I have some sort of lingering notion from previous generations that RAM performance wasn't quite optimal in "later" DIMM slots. Don't remember exactly










When I was runing 2x2GB, I ran them in slots 3&4 so it ran dual-channel. Worked like a champ. Now I have 8GB and all 4 slots are full.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lee17*


I don't know why but... i don't like the eco serie







. It is maybe because I don't see anyone showing my why they are so great...but they are cheap...

Everyone, you have to change my mind!


This stuff is rock-solid and OC's like a champ. I have mine running at 7-7-7-20 @ 1T while only at 1.41V.

On top of that, I'm still an OC'ing newbie. I bet there's much more I could squeeze out of my setup. Even with that being said, here's my Windows Experience scores:


----------



## darkwaffle

@Lee

Don't let yourself be swayed by the pricetag. Just because something is more expensive doesn't mean it's better









In your case, I would go with the Eco series. The Flare chips are great, I'm sure, but the problem is that it probably isn't worth the cost for you. Unless you're a very serious overclocker or benchmarker then super high performance RAM probably won't give you any visible performance increase. I think you would be better off saving your cash or re-investing it in something that -will- give you a substantial performance increase; such as your CPU, GPU, or a SSD (the big three at least).

Edit: And thanks Meto, sounds good.


----------



## Lee17

Ok, enough







, my little delicate mind have change









I will switch for the F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO and save like 30$


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lee17* 
Ok, enough







, my little delicate mind have change









I will switch for the F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO and save like 30$

You won't be disappointed.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lee17*


Ok, enough







, my little delicate mind have change









I will switch for the F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO and save like 30$


Great choice! Those Eco's are fantastic!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darkwaffle* 
Has anyone had any issues running dual channel in DIMM slots 3 and 4, or tried at all? My build is halted atm because I've got to get some other stuff ready in the room first, but I'm pretty sure my ram won't be able to fit in DIMM 1 and 2 thanks to my NH-D14. Figure it won't be a problem, but I have some sort of lingering notion from previous generations that RAM performance wasn't quite optimal in "later" DIMM slots. Don't remember exactly









I've got this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145267) installed in my system, with a Noctua C12SE-14 heatsink, and had to remove the blue spine heatsinks on 3 of the 4 DIMMS, and have about 2-3 mm between the 4th DIMM spinesink and edge of the CPU heatsink. How low does the D14 sit off the CPU socket? What kind of RAM are you looking at? You shouldn't have issues with DIMMs 3 and 4 as those are specified to be used when running 1866 or higher RAM speeds on revision 2.0 UD5 boards (probably UD7 as well). If you still need RAM, and are worried about tall DIMMs, I'd suggest staying away from Corsair's Dominator line, as those things are huge, even with the spine heatsinks removed.


----------



## darkwaffle

I can take some pictures of the D14 on the UD5 when I get home, and I'm using Mushkin Ridgebacks. They have absolutely no chance of fitting in dimm1 and dimm2, and 3/4 are snug but usable. The 120mm fan on the D14 quite literally sits on top of the ridgeback heat spreaders, or there's just a sliver of clearance if any. Not certain.


----------



## saint19

I will add tonight my OC with some pics of my rig (UD5 + Crucial RAM).


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
I will add tonight my OC with some pics of my rig (UD5 + Crucial RAM).









Sweet, can't wait


----------



## darkwaffle

PSA: If you use HDDErase with this board, connect the drives you will be wiping to SATA3_4 or SATA3_5. I just spent the last hour trying to get it working and trying to figure out why HDDErase (On a bootable USB stick) wouldn't recognize my drives, until I moved them to those connectors (Yes, legacy IDE was enabled for all sata controllers).

Hopefully it'll save someone else a little time and frustration









Edit: For clarity's sake, this was on a UD5 Rev2.0 with F3 bios.


----------



## Shroomalistic

thanks I plan on usings it as soon as I get my board on my vertex le


----------



## saint19

Hi again.

Here are my OC.





My rig:




CPU-Z Validation: 

CPU-Z Link: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1283272

Mobo: Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5
BIOS version: F3
CPU: Phenom II X4 955 C2
Frequency: 3810.99MHz
Reference/Multiplier: 206/18.5
Vcore: 1.472V
CPU NB VID Control: 1.3V
NB frequency: 2060MHz
NB voltage contorl: Stock
RAM: 4GB (2x2GB) Crucial Ballistix Tracer 1600 8-8-8-24 @ 1373 9-9-9-24
DRAM voltage: 1.65V
Cooler: CM Hyper 212+
OS_ Windows 7 Ultimate x64

The stability test was do it with Super PI from 16K until 32M as u can see in the pictures and with LinX (I forget the photos).

Is this OK for enter to the list?


----------



## BeepBeep

I made a support ticket a few days ago at the gigabyte website asking when F3 bios for the UD7 would be out.

They replied with:

Quote:

Thank you for your kindly mail and inquiry. Attached is the latest beta version BIOS for the motherboard. You should be able to update it and try again later. After bios updating, please do not forget to load BIOS fail-safe default setting.
For more information about how to do BIOS update, please kindly refer to motherboard user manual or please click HERE.

Please note that this beta BIOS is still under testing and not approved by our standard test procedure. Thus, in some system might cause other system unknown problem and we will not gurantee there will not be any side-effect after BIOS updating with this beta version BIOS

If you still have any further question or suggestion about our products/service, please do not hesitate to contact us. We will try our best to help you resolve the problem ASAP.

Regards,
GIGABYTE TECHNOLOGY
I've attached the bios on this message in a zip, I am yet to test them but will be within the next few hours, hopefully they have some nicer headroom<>volt overclockability.

Obviously use them at your own risk








Quite like gigabyte support now

(*890FXA-UD7 F3c Beta Bios*)


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

just an update, 3.7ghz passed 15 hours of prime blended


----------



## klaxian

Hello all. I am a fellow UD5 owner and I wanted to introduce myself. I'm new here and I hope this is the right place to do so. Thanks for all the great resources!


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

can anyone tell me what the benefit is of increasing the north bridge frequency, and does this require a proportionate increase on the core?

my north bridge is at 2000, ram 1600, 200x18.5.

will upping the north bridge increase cpu performance, or will it allow me to overclock my core further? (however, i dont really want to take that risk since the unlocked cores ruin temperature monitoring...and 3.7ghz screams)


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


can anyone tell me what the benefit is of increasing the north bridge frequency, and does this require a proportionate increase on the core?

my north bridge is at 2000, ram 1600, 200x18.5.

will upping the north bridge increase cpu performance, or will it allow me to overclock my core further? (however, i dont really want to take that risk since the unlocked cores ruin temperature monitoring...and 3.7ghz screams)


I know that increasing NB freq increases bandwidth between CPU and RAM, but I don't think you'll notice any difference unless you're running DDR3-2000 and 3000MHz+ on the NB. I'm not sure if increasing NB freq will allow you to OC your CPU more, though...


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject* 
can anyone tell me what the benefit is of increasing the north bridge frequency, and does this require a proportionate increase on the core?

my north bridge is at 2000, ram 1600, 200x18.5.

will upping the north bridge increase cpu performance, or will it allow me to overclock my core further? (however, i dont really want to take that risk since the unlocked cores ruin temperature monitoring...and 3.7ghz screams)


To my knowledge, and this is mostly stemming from the Athlon X2 era, going beyond the stock *Hype* transport speed doesn't result in any increased bandwidth unless multi GPU is in use, along with heavy memory usage, and other subsystems. Back in the X2 days, I kept it at stock speed, but increased the base clock to 250 Mhz instead of the stock 200.
I'm currently doing that on my system, and doing so seems to open up a little bit more RAM bandwidth (according to Everest ~250 MB), but makes an overall smoother system imo. Yes, I know my CPU's multiplier is unlocked. Another anomaly I've noticed since dealing with AMD chips (K7 to start with) is they measure a few degrees C cooler by using a lower multiplier and raised base clock as opposed to just jumping the multiplier up. Granted, each system is different, but after about a dozen K7 chips, 5 K8/K9, and three K10 chips, this has been a trend for all the chips I've OC'd. In the case of locked chips I could either jump the base clock slightly, and keep the high multi, or drop it and really raise the base clock. I choose the latter every time. However, I wouldn't mess with the *Hype* transport much, as I've seen that destroy stability when pushed...I keep mine at stock speed.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


just an update, 3.7ghz passed 15 hours of prime blended










Very nice


----------



## G3RG

^In this pic why is the first core at 1060 while the rest are at 4060...cpuz also says the cpus at 1060 (probably just reading the first core)

edit: also not sure why it says 1.3v core...thats definitely not right









^and in this pic what do the circled temp monitors correspond to? These are what are holding back my oc...as my system crashes due to temps

Curerntly at 4060mhz core and 2900 mhz NB


----------



## crunchie

G3RG. Have you got the F3 BIOS? If not, flash to that BIOS and see if the problem is still there.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Well, since nobody knew, I questioned Gigabyte tech support directly and here is the answer.

Seems a little high to me...Tator Tot said that according to the AMD white papers, the 890FX chipset NB can take up to 75*C. I'm inclined to just go with that number since 80*C seems a little ridiculous...


mine sometimes hits 60C as well but i dont think thats when im gaming(though I've never checked during gaming, just during long Prime testing, so I think its OK, because so far it isnt burning up to my knowledge)so I hope I wont burn up my board doing this, but we'll see, am I the only crazy one here with this, other than him? cuz my NB is at 1.4v I think, will it die?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


can anyone tell me what the benefit is of increasing the north bridge frequency, and does this require a proportionate increase on the core?

my north bridge is at 2000, ram 1600, 200x18.5.

will upping the north bridge increase cpu performance, or will it allow me to overclock my core further? (however, i dont really want to take that risk since the unlocked cores ruin temperature monitoring...and 3.7ghz screams)


IIRC, the HT and NB need to be at the same speed. There is some benefit to overclocking them, but not drastic. They seem to overclock very well though and heat is not normally a problem. With such little risk, any additional speed seems worth it. I run mine at 2.5GHz and have noticed a slight improvement overall.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


Hello all. I am a fellow UD5 owner and I wanted to introduce myself. I'm new here and I hope this is the right place to do so. Thanks for all the great resources!


Welcome to the thread!

P1 updated.


----------



## G3RG

Ya I just looked and I have the f1 bios lol...I'm def gonna have to flash that. Temp 2 and temp 3 hit somewhere between 65-70 before crashing (thats 10-15mins of linx+prime95)

I'm thinking of setting up a watercooling system...though before I do that I'm going to benchmark the difference between 2000mhz nb, 2500mhz nb, and 2900mhz nb.

I've dropped all my volts by quite a bit and haven't noticed any difference any difference in temps.


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

just an update for the OP im on bios f3, cpu is now 3.7 ghz, and i use a coolermaster V8 for cooling it.


----------



## Metonymy

The F3 bios is awesome. The first thing I did to this board when I got it last Thursday was fire up Windows, download F3, and install it.

I was back up and overclocked in no time at all.


----------



## klaxian

Does anyone know the differences between F2 and F3 beyond the one sentence description on the Gigabyte web site? I didn't notice much difference from F2 to F3, but F1 to F2 was noticeable.


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
Does anyone know the differences between F2 and F3 beyond the one sentence description on the Gigabyte web site? I didn't notice much difference from F2 to F3, but F1 to F2 was noticeable.

F2 to F3 was huge for me, as it was for several UD5 users in this thread.

For one, I'm no longer having my "double boot attempt" problems. Second, I can boot into BIOS with a USB keyboard reliably. Voltage increments have been lowered as well (for the CPU, I believe, don't quote me here).

Go back a few pages, some members did a great job outlining all the changes. Some have reported being able to pull off overclocks that were previously unstable.

TD;DR: F2 people were having big problems, F3 all those problems were fixed.


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

i previously could not overclock past 3.33ghz


----------



## G3RG

Well I'm still on the f1 and honestly this is amazing...I wonder if I could oc better with the f3 lol... I'm at 4.06 @1.425v and 2900mhz nb @1.3v


----------



## Yogi

So I hit a FSB wall with my UD3H and was thinking about getting a UD5. Haven't gone through the whole thread yet, but was wondering whats the highest FSB someone has gotten stable?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


So I hit a FSB wall with my UD3H and was thinking about getting a UD5. Haven't gone through the whole thread yet, but was wondering whats the highest FSB someone has gotten stable?


I run 253MHz (HT x10) with stock voltage if that helps.


----------



## G3RG

I run 290 but thats not the max I could run. The max on the chart on the first page is 312. What's your wall btw?


----------



## Yogi

290.


----------



## wermad

Hey guys, Im ready to return my msi and Im leaning towards the ud7 (vs the Crosshair IV & UD5) due to its pciex16 layout. My question is has any one used the nb waterblock? I know the barbs are 3/8, but are they removable to install 1/2" fittings? The hybrid cooler looks really nice though. Thanks for your input, I might join this club as an owner soon


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Yogi*


290.


Hmm, the Biostar TA890FXE hits an FSB wall at 290 as well with the 1055T...







. I know for a fact that it runs the 1090T well beyond 300 FSB. I'm not sure if a BIOS update has come out for that board to fix this problem. Maybe it's the same problem that the UD3H has?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I guess I have to ask again...

Does auto voltage not work for anyone else when overclocking? I try it and nothing changes at all.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


I guess I have to ask again...

Does auto voltage not work for anyone else when overclocking? I try it and nothing changes at all.


Nobody uses auto-voltage for overclocking...That's why you're not getting an answer. You shouldn't be using it for overclocking, anyway.


----------



## crunchie

Not many ppl would use the auto settings when overclocking. Set them manually so that _you_ have control over the volts and not the system







.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I understand that, but I'm still having trouble getting stable at 4.0ghz. I'm just curious what auto would set voltages to. I just find it funny that auto doesn't work at all.


----------



## Shroomalistic

k so im up and running, I got 2 of my 300 v-raptors on the giga raid in raid 0 and the rest of my drives on the normal sb850 sata ports. should I swap that around and do it the other way?

My main boot drive is a vertex le 50gb so it needs to be on ahci. I want to keep my raptors in raid 0 for my steam/game drives. what would give the best allround performance for the set up?

So far my 955c3 is at 3.8ghz, NB is at 2.8ghz, 8gb of eco is at 7-8-6-20-28 1t. its working pretty well so far. it primed for 1hr before i got sick of waiting.


----------



## Obakemono

My brother has ordered this mobo, but I was wondering if the 1090T CPU runs fine on the F1 BIOS, should he worry about flashing it to the F3 BIOS?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Obakemono*


My brother has ordered this mobo, but I was wondering if the 1090T CPU runs fine on the F1 BIOS, should he worry about flashing it to the F3 BIOS?










It will probably be ok, but one of the things called out in the F3 bios update is improvements for CPU handling. I'd upgrade if possible.


----------



## Obakemono

Ok, just making sure. Thx

+1 rep


----------



## xcooling

what is it with people and bios flashing ? F1/F2 < F3 ...

Its a dual bios motherboard, pretty impossible to kill from a bad flash..


----------



## decimator

To be honest, you've got nothing to worry about even if your mobo has just 1 BIOS chip (this board has 2). If you know how to do it right, it's kinda hard to screw it up. Just don't flash in Windows and make sure that the BIOS you're flashing with is indeed the BIOS for your mobo.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Hey guys, how do you check which version of Bios you have? I ordered the UD5 from Newegg last week, but I just want to make sure that it has the F3 bios. Thanks.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ebolamonkey3* 
Hey guys, how do you check which version of Bios you have? I ordered the UD5 from Newegg last week, but I just want to make sure that it has the F3 bios. Thanks.

Hold TAB during boot-up and you'll see the BIOS version, albeit for a split second. If you want to see it in Windows, I believe CPU-Z shows you.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Sweet, thanks. It's on F1, so it looks like I'll have to update it.

Btw, does anyone know how I can control the speed of the fan that's plugged into the PWN fan plug on the right side of the ram slots? Do I need a fan controller or can I do it through bios? I'm trying to scale down the Corsair ram fan down a bit.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Obakemono* 
My brother has ordered this mobo, but I was wondering if the 1090T CPU runs fine on the F1 BIOS, should he worry about flashing it to the F3 BIOS?









Welcome to the thread:

Yes, he should definitely update the BIOS. This is a new board and the updates are there to iron out the kinks of a new design. I have heard nothing but positive feedback about the the F3 BIOS and the ease of updating it. As such he has nothing to loose and performance to gain


----------



## crunchie

noob question alert







. On the dual bios boards, how do you flash the back-up bios?


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
noob question alert







. On the dual bios boards, how do you flash the back-up bios?

Good question. I've been wondering this myself. I don't think there's anything in the manual about this...


----------



## fidof650

I believe it's intended to work like this:

1. You mess up flashing the main BIOS

2. You are still able to boot from the backup BIOS

3. You flash the main BIOS again (this time successfully)

4. Problem solved

I'm not sure that the backup BIOS was ever intended to be flashed because its function is only supposed to serve temporarily.

There is a little voice in my head that seems to recall something about the 2nd BIOS being "read only."

But, I'm not entirely sure that this is true of all Gigabyte boards so, if anyone else has insight please let us know.


----------



## xcooling

u can not flash the backup bios.. states that in the manual.

purely a recovery solution.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xcooling* 
u can not flash the backup bios.. states that in the manual.

purely a recovery solution.

100% correct. The backup BIOS on these boards will always be whatever it came from the factory with.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ebolamonkey3*


... does anyone know how I can control the speed of the fan that's plugged into the PWN fan plug on the right side of the ram slots? Do I need a fan controller or can I do it through bios? I'm trying to scale down the Corsair ram fan down a bit.


Anyone know?


----------



## decimator

Did you try Speedfan?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Did you try Speedfan?


I didn't have any luck with Speedfan on this board. If anyone _has_ gotten it to work please, post how.


----------



## darkwaffle

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darkwaffle* 
PSA: If you use HDDErase with this board, connect the drives you will be wiping to SATA3_4 or SATA3_5. I just spent the last hour trying to get it working and trying to figure out why HDDErase (On a bootable USB stick) wouldn't recognize my drives, until I moved them to those connectors (Yes, legacy IDE was enabled for all sata controllers).

Hopefully it'll save someone else a little time and frustration









Edit: For clarity's sake, this was on a UD5 Rev2.0 with F3 bios.

Can anyone confirm/deny this? I know it's how it works on my board, but after some pretty extensive testing to figure out why my windows is having boot issues, I'm wondering if my south bridge is actually performing correctly. Has anyone else loaded HDDErase yet and can share their results? Don't even have to use it, just want to know what it 'sees'.


----------



## attackferret

Hey all, I just invested in a new system, including a GA-890FXA-UD5.
I have been searching for a solution for days, and cannot seem to find one, so I guess I will try the most efficient way, if someone is willing to indulge me:
My basic question is 
Is it possible to set up, with my motherboard, a system where I have a single disk as the OS, and two 640 Gig sata HDD in raid 0, AND two 1TB HDD in raid 1?
IF so, then how?! I keep getting errors, trying several different options of sata plug placement (putting os sata in the white, non sata3 plugs, which i believe has a separate controller), I've messed with creating raid arrays per the manual, and after two windows installations, my current status is that Windows is installed on the single disk, although I can't see any of the arrays in windows, but it does list the array during post, I believe.

If anyone has a better detailed link or reference for preliminary steps I could take before I ask more specific questions, that would be wonderful, as well as any insightful tip or recommendations overall. (should I just ditch the smaller 36 GB "1.5G" drive OS idea and put the OS on the raid0 640 GB drives and have the 1TB drives raid1'd as planned or what?

Does this motherboard support the setup that I would like, or is there a better, less hassle-entrenched way to do this.
I have spent much of the weekend trying to resolve this, as I want to try a few games on my rig and see the performance difference from my computer I bought a couple of years ago.

**I know that raid 0 offers limited, if any advantage for gaming, but I purchased the pair before I had done real research, and I would feel stupid using them any other way. I had intended on putting applications/programs and games on there.
The 2 1TB drives were going to be raid1'd for archival backups of EVERYTHING I have. I just recently took all old programs, pictures, vids, games, etc, and have them on a HDD, but would like to employ the TB drives for redundant storage so that I won't lose anything. 
all drives except the OS 36 gig "1.5G" raptor are all considered "3G" (I suppose thats sata II, since sata III would be 6G right?)

Thanks


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *attackferret* 
Hey all, I just invested in a new system, including a GA-890FXA-UD5.
I have been searching for a solution for days, and cannot seem to find one, so I guess I will try the most efficient way, if someone is willing to indulge me:
My basic question is
Is it possible to set up, with my motherboard, a system where I have a single disk as the OS, and two 640 Gig sata HDD in raid 0, AND two 1TB HDD in raid 1?
IF so, then how?! I keep getting errors, trying several different options of sata plug placement (putting os sata in the white, non sata3 plugs, which i believe has a separate controller), I've messed with creating raid arrays per the manual, and after two windows installations, my current status is that Windows is installed on the single disk, although I can't see any of the arrays in windows, but it does list the array during post, I believe.

If anyone has a better detailed link or reference for preliminary steps I could take before I ask more specific questions, that would be wonderful, as well as any insightful tip or recommendations overall. (should I just ditch the smaller 36 GB "1.5G" drive OS idea and put the OS on the raid0 640 GB drives and have the 1TB drives raid1'd as planned or what?

Does this motherboard support the setup that I would like, or is there a better, less hassle-entrenched way to do this.
I have spent much of the weekend trying to resolve this, as I want to try a few games on my rig and see the performance difference from my computer I bought a couple of years ago.

**I know that raid 0 offers limited, if any advantage for gaming, but I purchased the pair before I had done real research, and I would feel stupid using them any other way. I had intended on putting applications/programs and games on there.
The 2 1TB drives were going to be raid1'd for archival backups of EVERYTHING I have. I just recently took all old programs, pictures, vids, games, etc, and have them on a HDD, but would like to employ the TB drives for redundant storage so that I won't lose anything.
all drives except the OS 36 gig "1.5G" raptor are all considered "3G" (I suppose thats sata II, since sata III would be 6G right?)

Thanks

Windows cant see the raid arrays until they become active,to do this you need to "right click" on "computer",then select "manage",then select "disk management",the drives should be shown now,what you do now is right click on each drive and select "mark partition as active".Once this is done,your drives will be recognised by windows and are then available to be used.Hope this helps.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

My weekend was good! Machine was off for 36 hours. Turned it on to multiple BSOD, 4 of which were PFN_LIST_CORRUPT. Unplugged all hard drives except the boot drive and have been adding/testing them one at a time. So far everything has been passing WD's extended test. So the RAM tests fine, CPU tests fine, and all but 2 hard drives (1TB and 1.5TB) test fine. If those hard drives test fine, I'm going to try and RMA the board, which is ironic, because I bought this board due to the previous one requiring a second RMA. At least it's not as bad as my first PC build....2 Enermax and 2 Antec PSUs died, Went through 5 motherboards (thanks to PSU mostly, although one had severe BIOS issues), and two video cards (PSU fried). What was learned? I have terrible luck, and really hate the RMA processes, especially when I'm the one paying shipping for a defective product.


----------



## Metonymy

So the Realtek HD Audio Manager that comes as the driver for this mobo...

... every now and then it'll randomly pop up and say "you've inserted a device in the front audio port", and it thinks I've inserted a mic or speakers. And pretty quickly thereafter, it'll say " an audio device has been unplugged" (or something close to that).

Anyone else ever have this issue with the UD5? My UD3H did this as well. Really strange. I have the case cable run to the audio pins on the MOBO, but I've never hooked a headset up to the front port for anything.


----------



## attackferret

Thank you for generously helping a noob, kind sir. 
(I also discovered that I had to install the raid driver from the gigabyte site, as the version from the install disk somehow didn't install correctly, either.) I was unfamiliar with the fact that I had to create a partition etc, so thank you for the help. It seems to be working now!
I will have time to install some drivers tonight, and maybe get around to some fallout 3 tomorrow, heh.
I will lurk around this boards, and perhaps learn the basics of bios tweaking/overclocking so that maybe I can baby-step into increasing performance a little.
Again, thanks!


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *attackferret* 
Thank you for generously helping a noob, kind sir.
(I also discovered that I had to install the raid driver from the gigabyte site, as the version from the install disk somehow didn't install correctly, either.) I was unfamiliar with the fact that I had to create a partition etc, so thank you for the help. It seems to be working now!
I will have time to install some drivers tonight, and maybe get around to some fallout 3 tomorrow, heh.
I will lurk around this boards, and perhaps learn the basics of bios tweaking/overclocking so that maybe I can baby-step into increasing performance a little.
Again, thanks!

No problem,glad i could help.If you get any more problems,just shout,LOL!!!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Does anyone know the amperage/wattage spec of the CPU fan header? I haven't written Gigabyte about it yet, as they haven't responded in two days to my current issue asking if they might have a clue about my system constantly giving BSOD. Anyway, I'm considering upgrading to a *high* performance fan, preferably PWM this time. Thanks in advance!


----------



## darkwaffle

Aren't all the 3 pin fan connectors on a mobo usually given 1 amp shared? That seems to be what I recall reading; unless you're using very powerful fans you should be fine as long as you don't put too many on it. Personally I prefer just sticking all my fans on 4pin; I'm not overly concerned with noise.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Does anyone know the amperage/wattage spec of the CPU fan header? I haven't written Gigabyte about it yet, as they haven't responded in two days to my current issue asking if they might have a clue about my system constantly giving BSOD. Anyway, I'm considering upgrading to a *high* performance fan, preferably PWM this time. Thanks in advance!


What problems are you having,i have'nt been on here for a while,maybe i can help solve your problems.Would you mind bringing me up to date.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


My weekend was good! Machine was off for 36 hours. Turned it on to multiple BSOD, 4 of which were PFN_LIST_CORRUPT. Unplugged all hard drives except the boot drive and have been adding/testing them one at a time. So far everything has been passing WD's extended test. So the RAM tests fine, CPU tests fine, and all but 2 hard drives (1TB and 1.5TB) test fine. If those hard drives test fine, I'm going to try and RMA the board, which is ironic, because I bought this board due to the previous one requiring a second RMA. At least it's not as bad as my first PC build....2 Enermax and 2 Antec PSUs died, Went through 5 motherboards (thanks to PSU mostly, although one had severe BIOS issues), and two video cards (PSU fried). What was learned? I have terrible luck, and really hate the RMA processes, especially when I'm the one paying shipping for a defective product.


Wellp, all hard drives test great. Gigabyte finally responded after two days, saying to test each stick individually, and if that fails, up the NB voltage by .2 volts. Um.....*** Gigabyte, your system should be stable at stock voltage. So, on to wasting 4 days of my time verifying the RAM for a 4th time just to sate them. And hey, maybe the number 4 will work out, and I RMA the board to receive a 4th overall AM3 board that _might_ actually work. Yes, I'm extremely annoyed right now, and I've paid enough shipping to RMA new things that I easily could've bought a motherboard (oh wait, I did that already).


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Does anyone know the amperage/wattage spec of the CPU fan header? I haven't written Gigabyte about it yet, as they haven't responded in two days to my current issue asking if they might have a clue about my system constantly giving BSOD. Anyway, I'm considering upgrading to a *high* performance fan, preferably PWM this time. Thanks in advance!


I'm running a 4000 rpm, 150 CFM 4-pin PWM fan through the CPU header. It's running like a champ. According to HeatsinkFactory, this particular Delta fan pulls 17.40 watts, 1.45 amps at full load, so this is no measly fan. Whatever you decide to run, you should be fine.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
So the Realtek HD Audio Manager that comes as the driver for this mobo...

... every now and then it'll randomly pop up and say "you've inserted a device in the front audio port", and it thinks I've inserted a mic or speakers. And pretty quickly thereafter, it'll say " an audio device has been unplugged" (or something close to that).

Anyone else ever have this issue with the UD5? My UD3H did this as well. Really strange. I have the case cable run to the audio pins on the MOBO, but I've never hooked a headset up to the front port for anything.

Anyone have any suggestions on this?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I'm running a 4000 rpm, 150 CFM 4-pin PWM fan through the CPU header. It's running like a champ. According to HeatsinkFactory, this particular Delta fan pulls 17.40 watts, 1.45 amps at full load, so this is no measly fan. Whatever you decide to run, you should be fine.

Excellent and thankyou! I'm looking at a 1.3 amp NMB fan myself, pushes around 150 cfm I think. I currently have a TopMotor 120mm 93CFM fan on the Noctua. It slays the stock (albeit silent and quite nice) 140mm. Your answer gives some assurance that I can stick something nasty on there...and hopefully it will still stay quiet unless really being worked.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Wellp, all hard drives test great. Gigabyte finally responded after two days, saying to test each stick individually, and if that fails, up the NB voltage by .2 volts. Um.....*** Gigabyte, your system should be stable at stock voltage. So, on to wasting 4 days of my time verifying the RAM for a 4th time just to sate them. And hey, maybe the number 4 will work out, and I RMA the board to receive a 4th overall AM3 board that _might_ actually work. Yes, I'm extremely annoyed right now, and I've paid enough shipping to RMA new things that I easily could've bought a motherboard (oh wait, I did that already).



I decided to just make it 10 passes per stick with RAM testing. I also came across a BIOS bug. Any memory divider setting other than "auto" will result in the system stating the system has failed an overclock in regards to the memory, and that it's being set back to DDR1333, even if the divider was set to that speed, or even below it. I'm going to be letting Gigabyte know this once I let them know yet again, my RAM is not bad so far (have the last stick testing currently and will know by lunch, although I doubt it will fail, as it hasn't in the past). So it's coming down to either their BIOS, or their board.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Anyone have any suggestions on this?










I have the same problem and until know i don't have any idea how to solve this but could be a problem with the Realtek driver because with my previous MSI K9A2 Platinum i had the same problem.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


I decided to just make it 10 passes per stick with RAM testing. I also came across a BIOS bug. Any memory divider setting other than "auto" will result in the system stating the system has failed an overclock in regards to the memory, and that it's being set back to DDR1333, even if the divider was set to that speed, or even below it. I'm going to be letting Gigabyte know this once I let them know yet again, my RAM is not bad so far (have the last stick testing currently and will know by lunch, although I doubt it will fail, as it hasn't in the past). So it's coming down to either their BIOS, or their board.


Ok, so Gigabyte support is kind of pointless. They want me to test the RAM. For fun, I'm going to post their replies to this post only, and edit as necessary so I don't start blowing this thread up (sorry if I already have).

My first query:
Getting multiple BSOD (Memory Management) (Driver IRQL Not Less or Equal To) and primarily PFN_List_Corrupt. The system will also freeze randomly, and stop responding to any USB inputs, without actually freezing. Plugging mouse/keyboard in and out, or in another port makes no difference. I have updated to the newest drivers, have performed diagnostics on all 6 hard drives, reseated the memory, and run multiple passes of memtest86+ v. 4.10 (overnight and 24 hour+ lengths). I have tested CPU with prime number tests against known values. All pieces pass tests. Motherboard was swapped in, and problems started. Previous board was 790FX chipset, and is no long available to test on again. Windows 7 is 3 weeks old after reinstalling attempting to clear up any possible errors. Is there a newer, or beta BIOS to try, or something else?

GB Response:

Dear customer,
Could be one of the memory was not stable. You may need to test with single stick memory a time on slot close to cpu, check memory voltage spec and adjusts it match in bios (check memory module label). Mother board bios memory voltage setting is base on 1.5v (default voltage) if memory is higher than 1.5v spec, go in bios under M/B intelligent tweaker memory voltage control item adjusts memory voltage match.
For example: current memory is 1.65v go in bios M/B intelligent tweaker on memory voltage control item change from 1.5v to 1.65v. Please also check cpu temp in bios under PC health status, normal cpu temp should be 37-59 C, if over 60C, it considers as overheated.

My response:

I'll try testing each individual stick, but all RAM was verified working in two other motherboards without issue. Voltage is 1.65 volts with 8-8-8-24 timings @ DDR 1333 speeds (timings and voltages are for DDR 1600 speeds as specified by Corsair). All other voltages are set to stock. CPU temp peaks at 31C under full load, and is otherwise slightly above ambient (22C room constant). RAM temperature (measured by probe) is 34C with heavy use. Northbridge temp is 42C under full load, SB temp is 35C.

GB Response:

Please try test with single stick memory a time on slot close to cpu, in bios under MB intelligent tweaker set NB voltage control to +0.2, if all memory runs fine independently, put all memory back in test run system again.

My response:

I have just finished verifying all sticks of RAM individually, 8-8-8-24 timings, 1.65 volts, all other voltages were left at stock. All sticks spent a minimum of 10 passes with Memtest 86+ v.4.0. No errors occurred by any of the sticks. All other settings were set to "auto" aside from manually setting RAM voltage and basic timings (the more advanced timings were automatically set to SPD specs).
I did notice a bug when the motherboard reboots, either manually, or from a Windows update (when in Windows), the next warm boot will have a "failed overclocking" message when any memory divider other than "auto" is selected. I've dealt with this problem for a long time, and only came upon the pattern. When the RAM divider is set to auto, all is fine. Even downclocking to 1066 or lower will result in the same message. This is now the fourth time the RAM has been tested (twice in two other boards and twice in this board), and it's never had an error. Is there a new BIOS, or something else to help this situation?

GB: 
Currently F3 is the latest version bios on this board, If current system is Win7 64bit, you may need to remove current EZT6 utility download new version ETZ6 from this web then check if memory devider function ok.
http://www.gigabyte.com/support-down...lity.aspx?cg=2

Me:
I have never installed any EZ Tune software.

GB:

No EZT6 install where to adjust the memory devider ? You mean in bios memory frequency adjustment ? If yes, that will consider as overclock setting.
Please test with single stick memory a time on slot close to cpu, reset bios to load fail-safe defaults and load optimize defaults, adjust memory voltage match under M/B intelligent tweaker, test run system again, if all memory runs fine indifidually then put all memory back to system test run again, they should run fine.

Me:

Do you mean changing the memory divider to manually run the memory at 800 or 1066 speeds is considered overclocking, or putting it at 1333, or 1600? Do you mean changing the divider to anything other than "auto" in the BIOS is considered overclocking?
I had to reset the system BIOS last night due to unresponsiveness and a Windows crash just before testing. I chose optimized settings, then chose to boot from CD, then chose the manual RAM voltage and timings (not divider...it was left to "auto"), and then tested each stick individually in DIMM 1 (closest to CPU socket) a minimum of 10 times (approximately 4 hours per stick). The system is still unstable and Windows 7 will give BSOD. I have tested this memory enough times, it is NOT the memory. I also have had issues with the system freezing (happened a few minutes ago and before) during hard drive detection. I pulled all but the boot drive, and the system booted. This happened several days ago, prompting me to test the hard drives individually. If there is no new BIOS, and so far nothing has changed the system stability, I would like to RMA this board and replace it, as it is defective.

That sums it up so far. Yes, I put the CPU back to stock, along with everything else but the RAM voltage and base timings. I also lost my Memtest 4.10 disc somewhere, but whatever, 4.0 seems to work just as well. I feel Gigabyte's tech support is a bit fail, and constantly blaming my (in this case blameless) RAM for system issues. First Gigabyte board I've owned, and at this point, I've run out of manufacturers because every single board, except an Epox and an Abit, have had to be RMA'd (talking about a dozen boards). Sadly, those two companies are out of business. Any thoughts?


----------



## saint19

^GB:

Dear costumer we don't have idea what could be the problem, please RMA the mobo to the seller lol

If u test the RAM and it's fine, return the mobo as RMA and wait for another one.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Ok, so Gigabyte support is kind of pointless. They want me to test the RAM. For fun, I'm going to post their replies to this post only, and edit as necessary so I don't start blowing this thread up (sorry if I already have).

My first query:
Getting multiple BSOD (Memory Management) (Driver IRQL Not Less or Equal To) and primarily PFN_List_Corrupt. The system will also freeze randomly, and stop responding to any USB inputs, without actually freezing. Plugging mouse/keyboard in and out, or in another port makes no difference. I have updated to the newest drivers, have performed diagnostics on all 6 hard drives, reseated the memory, and run multiple passes of memtest86+ v. 4.10 (overnight and 24 hour+ lengths). I have tested CPU with prime number tests against known values. All pieces pass tests. Motherboard was swapped in, and problems started. Previous board was 790FX chipset, and is no long available to test on again. Windows 7 is 3 weeks old after reinstalling attempting to clear up any possible errors. Is there a newer, or beta BIOS to try, or something else?

GB Response:

Dear customer,
Could be one of the memory was not stable. You may need to test with single stick memory a time on slot close to cpu, check memory voltage spec and adjusts it match in bios (check memory module label). Mother board bios memory voltage setting is base on 1.5v (default voltage) if memory is higher than 1.5v spec, go in bios under M/B intelligent tweaker memory voltage control item adjusts memory voltage match.
For example: current memory is 1.65v go in bios M/B intelligent tweaker on memory voltage control item change from 1.5v to 1.65v. Please also check cpu temp in bios under PC health status, normal cpu temp should be 37-59 C, if over 60C, it considers as overheated.

My response:

I'll try testing each individual stick, but all RAM was verified working in two other motherboards without issue. Voltage is 1.65 volts with 8-8-8-24 timings @ DDR 1333 speeds (timings and voltages are for DDR 1600 speeds as specified by Corsair). All other voltages are set to stock. CPU temp peaks at 31C under full load, and is otherwise slightly above ambient (22C room constant). RAM temperature (measured by probe) is 34C with heavy use. Northbridge temp is 42C under full load, SB temp is 35C.

GB Response:

Please try test with single stick memory a time on slot close to cpu, in bios under MB intelligent tweaker set NB voltage control to +0.2, if all memory runs fine independently, put all memory back in test run system again.

My response:

I have just finished verifying all sticks of RAM individually, 8-8-8-24 timings, 1.65 volts, all other voltages were left at stock. All sticks spent a minimum of 10 passes with Memtest 86+ v.4.0. No errors occurred by any of the sticks. All other settings were set to "auto" aside from manually setting RAM voltage and basic timings (the more advanced timings were automatically set to SPD specs).
I did notice a bug when the motherboard reboots, either manually, or from a Windows update (when in Windows), the next warm boot will have a "failed overclocking" message when any memory divider other than "auto" is selected. I've dealt with this problem for a long time, and only came upon the pattern. When the RAM divider is set to auto, all is fine. Even downclocking to 1066 or lower will result in the same message. This is now the fourth time the RAM has been tested (twice in two other boards and twice in this board), and it's never had an error. Is there a new BIOS, or something else to help this situation?

GB: 
Currently F3 is the latest version bios on this board, If current system is Win7 64bit, you may need to remove current EZT6 utility download new version ETZ6 from this web then check if memory devider function ok.
http://www.gigabyte.com/support-down...lity.aspx?cg=2

Me:
I have never installed any EZ Tune software.

GB:

No EZT6 install where to adjust the memory devider ? You mean in bios memory frequency adjustment ? If yes, that will consider as overclock setting.
Please test with single stick memory a time on slot close to cpu, reset bios to load fail-safe defaults and load optimize defaults, adjust memory voltage match under M/B intelligent tweaker, test run system again, if all memory runs fine indifidually then put all memory back to system test run again, they should run fine.

Me:

Do you mean changing the memory divider to manually run the memory at 800 or 1066 speeds is considered overclocking, or putting it at 1333, or 1600? Do you mean changing the divider to anything other than "auto" in the BIOS is considered overclocking?
I had to reset the system BIOS last night due to unresponsiveness and a Windows crash just before testing. I chose optimized settings, then chose to boot from CD, then chose the manual RAM voltage and timings (not divider...it was left to "auto"), and then tested each stick individually in DIMM 1 (closest to CPU socket) a minimum of 10 times (approximately 4 hours per stick). The system is still unstable and Windows 7 will give BSOD. I have tested this memory enough times, it is NOT the memory. I also have had issues with the system freezing (happened a few minutes ago and before) during hard drive detection. I pulled all but the boot drive, and the system booted. This happened several days ago, prompting me to test the hard drives individually. If there is no new BIOS, and so far nothing has changed the system stability, I would like to RMA this board and replace it, as it is defective.

That sums it up so far. Yes, I put the CPU back to stock, along with everything else but the RAM voltage and base timings. I also lost my Memtest 4.10 disc somewhere, but whatever, 4.0 seems to work just as well. I feel Gigabyte's tech support is a bit fail, and constantly blaming my (in this case blameless) RAM for system issues. First Gigabyte board I've owned, and at this point, I've run out of manufacturers because every single board, except an Epox and an Abit, have had to be RMA'd (talking about a dozen boards). Sadly, those two companies are out of business. Any thoughts?


You say you swapped motherboard out,then your problems started,but did you do a clean OS install,if and when you replace a motherboard you should allways do a clean OS install,not doing so will cause all sorts of problems.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Oh yeah. I did a clean install 3 weeks ago, and still had the exact same problems. There was literally no change. I've had problems since day one with this board, but I initially attributed it to the BIOS. Each revision helped stability, and the problems came less and less, until the other night, when the system simply refused to run with BSOD or freeze. This board is fail, and I'm outright ticked that I have yet another board that requires another replacement, and of course I get to pay another $30 in shipping, on top of the already expensive $188 for the board.

I love Gigabyte's referral to anything beyond the Auto setting for Mem divider being "overclocked." This will likely be the last Gigabyte board I buy for myself. I said the same thing about MSI a couple months ago. In the past 6 months I've had to RMA 3 motherboards (including this), literally every single AM3 board I've had, due to defects, or blown VRMs. At the moment I'd simply like a reimbursement for the board, along with the days and power wasted testing this P.O.S. However, that will never happen, and I should probably grab the Vaseline again to get another shaft from another motherboard maker.


----------



## saint19

I think that the clean installation with Win 7 isn't necessary. Why? I change my old MSI for my current Gigabyte and the OS boot without problems and until now I haven't get BSoD. Bear on mind that u need clean the old drivers with driver cleaner or another software.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


You say you swapped motherboard out,then your problems started,but did you do a clean OS install,if and when you replace a motherboard you should allways do a clean OS install,not doing so will cause all sorts of problems.


I disagree. I swapped from the UD3H to the UD5 and didn't do an OS install. My machine is running just fine.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Oh yeah. I did a clean install 3 weeks ago, and still had the exact same problems. There was literally no change. I've had problems since day one with this board, but I initially attributed it to the BIOS. Each revision helped stability, and the problems came less and less, until the other night, when the system simply refused to run with BSOD or freeze. This board is fail, and I'm outright ticked that I have yet another board that requires another replacement, and of course I get to pay another $30 in shipping, on top of the already expensive $188 for the board.

I love Gigabyte's referral to anything beyond the Auto setting for Mem divider being "overclocked." This will likely be the last Gigabyte board I buy for myself. I said the same thing about MSI a couple months ago. In the past 6 months I've had to RMA 3 motherboards (including this), literally every single AM3 board I've had, due to defects, or blown VRMs. At the moment I'd simply like a reimbursement for the board, along with the days and power wasted testing this P.O.S. However, that will never happen, and I should probably grab the Vaseline again to get another shaft from another motherboard maker.


Not having followed your thread from the start,but can you bring me up to speed with your exact problems,i'm sure we can get you sorted.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


I disagree. I swapped from the UD3H to the UD5 and didn't do an OS install. My machine is running just fine.


Aren't you the lucky one then.


----------



## saint19

^He's not the only one







I do the same without a clean installation.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
Not having followed your thread from the start,but can you bring me up to speed with your exact problems,i'm sure we can get you sorted.









I'll try to outline the problems as concisely as possible.

1st problem: C1 and C&Q didn't work..fixed with BIOS F3 update.

2nd problem: Board constantly complained of failed overclocked RAM if any manual divider selected, and would throw base clock and mem settings back to auto. This happened on every automated restart(example: windows installed updates and had to restart) and about half of manual ones. If I shut the system down it would still happen, but maybe 20% of the time. This happened in all BIOS version (F1-F3).

3rd problem: A couple of times recently the system refused to boot, would lock up when detecting the hard drives. I tried multiple settings. The last major time it happened (before today) I pulled all drives and tested one by one. It happened once before, and I never found a pattern. Basically it would lock at post/HDD detect, even with all, none, or some hard drives connected. I thought it might be due to the IDE DVD drive I was using. Disconnected, it ran fine, and then happened again.

4th problem (least of my worries): The POST beep has never worked. I have tried multiple known working speakers, and they are all silent.

5th problem: Once I get into Windows (7 x64), I get random (usually within 10 minutes) BSOD, mostly PFN_List_Corrupt, then Memory_Management, then Driver_IRQL_Not less or equal to. This usually happens if I've left my system powered off (hibernate, sleep, hybrid sleep, or fully powered off/unplugged) for more than 12 hours, and will happen if left off for 24 hours.

I thought the RAM was bad, although it came from a previous system that had zero issues. The processor dealt with the previous board feeding it a small jolt. After 24+ hours of Prime testing it was fine, no errors. Each hard drive was tested for pretty much everything. I spent 3 days on that alone. Power supply has always been good, and voltages are solid with a digital volt meter. Video card is fine. I updated the driver for the SB850, and that helped for a couple days, and the problem came back again, after last weekend. I've run the BIOS in optimized defaults settings, with AHCI, IDE (two different installs) settings. I've disabled and enabled pretty much everything, ranging from the parallel port to virtualization to auto fan control. Nothing has changed how this thing runs. I ran out of ideas









*UPDATE*
Came home from work, and tried to just use the system. Will take about 5-9 minutes to load windows, and then blue screens. Just now got to system repair, and that is not looking promising as the computer just froze. I believe the SATA controller is the cause of the problem, as it started causing more issues after testing each hard drive. I have another Gigabyte board (ordered for the girlfriend as she had a choice) that I can try. It's an 890GPA-UD3H, and just came in today. Assuming it's good, it should load Windows just fine, and probably will use the same drivers.

*SECOND UPDATE*
Before trying to swap motherboards, I tried swapping in the old 965 I had around. System booted great, and into Windows. Tried some hard drive benchmarks just to see how well the controller is working. My boot drive (640GB WD Black) is pretty much as fast as a 1.5TB Green, except the green drive is way more consistent. The Black keeps dropping out to 1 or 2 MB/S when testing, and peaks around 116. Burst is said to be 120. So I swapped in the 1090T and tried again...same results. I tried swapping in a brand new SATA cable and put the black drive on a different port. Much better now, but still utter rubbish.








Here's a screenshot. This is pretty much the most consistent one. The other drives do the same crap, but not quite as badly. I'm really starting to think it's the SB causing the issues, as it did this with both processors, ruling out that possibility.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
I think that the clean installation with Win 7 isn't necessary.

I think this is really a crap shoot. When I swapped out a 890FXA-UD5 for a 890FXA-UD5 and did not do a fresh OS install, it caused problems.

I have also swapped hard drives between multiple systems without issues while working in my shop so who's to say.

My advice would be to do the fresh install and save yourself the headache later.

Besides, there's nothing like a fresh OS install to fix all kind of bugs.

If you look at my initial install report (link below) you will see that I had a few glitches to iron out. I had none of these issues after a clean OS install.

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...ml#post9271223

Regarding RMA:

So here is what I have done.

I've ordered a second GA-890FXA-UD5 and new memory from Mushkin this time.

While waiting for the board and memory I'll test the CPU in another board to rule out the memory controller.

Once the new board and memory arrive I'll start by installing the new memory in the original board to see if it resolves the issue.

If the issue persists, I'll replace the board and test both sets of memory in the replacement board.

Once all of this is completed I will still have time to RMA anything that isn't working correctly including the proc if necessary (I have until June 2nd to RMA my original order).

I'll keep you all posted on my progress.[/QUOTE]

Every OEM I have ever had to deal with has blamed the problem and components from another OEM. This is the industry's Standard Operation Procedure (SOP).

I usually get good results by either hitting the phone hard after locating corporate contact numbers or when using e-mail, I copy the the advice they give me, past it in the reply, state "this is what I did and the problem persists." Or some variation of the above.

I hope things clear up for you.


----------



## Celeras

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
You say you swapped motherboard out,then your problems started,but did you do a clean OS install,if and when you replace a motherboard you should allways do a clean OS install,not doing so will cause all sorts of problems.

I went from LGA775-> 890FX on the same 64 windows 7 installation and experienced no issues. Just throwing it out there, I booted and took care of all the driver nonsense and everything has been flawless.


----------



## G3RG

I did the same...no issues, win 7 took care of everything =D

But I did reinstall a couple days later as I got an SSD =D


----------



## alphabot

i'm happy with my ud5, well for now anyway. even for a notice overclocker, the bios is easy to use


----------



## agonggo

Hi. I was wondering. What is the voltage specs of the 1055T? My UD5 wants to run the CPU at 1.47v which I find too high. I see most of you use voltages below 1.4v. I have already turned off autovoltage in the bios and tried to set it at 1.37v. Is this voltage alright? I'm currently overclocking my system at 3.6Ghz.

Thanks.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

The voltage, if set to "auto" will run at 1.3 volts when the CPU has all 6 cores under use. If 3 or less are being used, voltage is bumped to 1.475, and the frequency of those 3 active cores will be bumped up as well. This is how it works on my 1090T, and I'd assume your 1055 will run very similar voltages.

I also found a page that specifies the typical 1055T voltage, and it includes turbo mode, which does show a bump to 1.45 volts, so 1.47 isn't a big deal. Base voltage should still be 1.3. Here's the page.

From my experience, my chip does 3.6 Ghz on 1.3 volts without issue. The ability to handle extra voltage is just gravy. 1.47-ish is not exactly low voltage, but if they're coming that way from AMD (sounds like they are), then I doubt there's any likelihood of failure. Try running your chip at a little lower voltage and test for stability.


----------



## G3RG

Anybody know why cpuz, everest, and overdrive all say that my first core is at 1160mhz and the other 5 are at 4060mhz even under full load


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
I'll try to outline the problems as concisely as possible.

1st problem: C1 and C&Q didn't work..fixed with BIOS F3 update.

2nd problem: Board constantly complained of failed overclocked RAM if any manual divider selected, and would throw base clock and mem settings back to auto. This happened on every automated restart(example: windows installed updates and had to restart) and about half of manual ones. If I shut the system down it would still happen, but maybe 20% of the time. This happened in all BIOS version (F1-F3).

3rd problem: A couple of times recently the system refused to boot, would lock up when detecting the hard drives. I tried multiple settings. The last major time it happened (before today) I pulled all drives and tested one by one. It happened once before, and I never found a pattern. Basically it would lock at post/HDD detect, even with all, none, or some hard drives connected. I thought it might be due to the IDE DVD drive I was using. Disconnected, it ran fine, and then happened again.

4th problem (least of my worries): The POST beep has never worked. I have tried multiple known working speakers, and they are all silent.

5th problem: Once I get into Windows (7 x64), I get random (usually within 10 minutes) BSOD, mostly PFN_List_Corrupt, then Memory_Management, then Driver_IRQL_Not less or equal to. This usually happens if I've left my system powered off (hibernate, sleep, hybrid sleep, or fully powered off/unplugged) for more than 12 hours, and will happen if left off for 24 hours.

I thought the RAM was bad, although it came from a previous system that had zero issues. The processor dealt with the previous board feeding it a small jolt. After 24+ hours of Prime testing it was fine, no errors. Each hard drive was tested for pretty much everything. I spent 3 days on that alone. Power supply has always been good, and voltages are solid with a digital volt meter. Video card is fine. I updated the driver for the SB850, and that helped for a couple days, and the problem came back again, after last weekend. I've run the BIOS in optimized defaults settings, with AHCI, IDE (two different installs) settings. I've disabled and enabled pretty much everything, ranging from the parallel port to virtualization to auto fan control. Nothing has changed how this thing runs. I ran out of ideas









*UPDATE*
Came home from work, and tried to just use the system. Will take about 5-9 minutes to load windows, and then blue screens. Just now got to system repair, and that is not looking promising as the computer just froze. I believe the SATA controller is the cause of the problem, as it started causing more issues after testing each hard drive. I have another Gigabyte board (ordered for the girlfriend as she had a choice) that I can try. It's an 890GPA-UD3H, and just came in today. Assuming it's good, it should load Windows just fine, and probably will use the same drivers.

*SECOND UPDATE*
Before trying to swap motherboards, I tried swapping in the old 965 I had around. System booted great, and into Windows. Tried some hard drive benchmarks just to see how well the controller is working. My boot drive (640GB WD Black) is pretty much as fast as a 1.5TB Green, except the green drive is way more consistent. The Black keeps dropping out to 1 or 2 MB/S when testing, and peaks around 116. Burst is said to be 120. So I swapped in the 1090T and tried again...same results. I tried swapping in a brand new SATA cable and put the black drive on a different port. Much better now, but still utter rubbish.







Here's a screenshot. This is pretty much the most consistent one. The other drives do the same crap, but not quite as badly. I'm really starting to think it's the SB causing the issues, as it did this with both processors, ruling out that possibility.

Have you installed the "SB filter driver",also i would be inclined to do a "full" clear cmos ritual"and flash back to F1 and start again,sounds like a corrupt bios to me.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
Anybody know why cpuz, everest, and overdrive all say that my first core is at 1160mhz and the other 5 are at 4060mhz even under full load

Flaw with Cool 'n' Quiet. This problem went away for me with one of two ways:

(1) Change your power plan to power saver and then change it back to balanced. Do not leave on "high performance" during a reboot, or it will get stuck again. (This only works if CnQ is on in the BIOS.)

(2) Update to F3 if you have not already. This fixed it for good in my case.

To all, I just found this thread, and will read through it in the next few days. Expect me to be lurking thereafter.


----------



## G3RG

Ok so what's the easiest way to update the bios on the ud5?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
Have you installed the "SB filter driver",also i would be inclined to do a "full" clear cmos ritual"and flash back to F1 and start again,sounds like a corrupt bios to me.

Yep, I did that a while ago, and it made no difference. I've flashed the BIOS on this board back and forth 5 or 6 times already, and it also hasn't made a difference. It could be corrupt BIOS, or possibly a bad BIOS chip. I've left it off all of today, and want to see if I can recreate the lovely boot issue I had yesterday. I might swap in the 965 and see if it does it then, too. I'm still inclined to think the board is defective instead of the processor.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
Yep, I did that a while ago, and it made no difference. I've flashed the BIOS on this board back and forth 5 or 6 times already, and it also hasn't made a difference. It could be corrupt BIOS, or possibly a bad BIOS chip. I've left it off all of today, and want to see if I can recreate the lovely boot issue I had yesterday. I might swap in the 965 and see if it does it then, too. I'm still inclined to think the board is defective instead of the processor.

Do you know what a "full clear cmos" entails,many people dont do it correctly.???


----------



## Tchernobyl

All righty guys, looking for a bit of help.

I'm planning to get the UD5 mobo shortly, and need some ram to go with it, however here's my quandry: price.

I can't directly afford an outright buy, but i've been using newegg's preferred account system to do monthly payments just fine. In this case, it's a 250$ minimum for preferred account to work. I also have a 100$ promo card from newegg that I need to take into account.

The UD5 mobo is 179$. Minus the promo card, I'm standing at 79$.

What ram would you suggest I get? Preferably DDR3 1600. I was thinking that I could get 8gb to get the required 250$. That, or 4gb and some random 3rd item that would come to mind.

I've read about how it is somewhat harder to oc in general/OC memory/tighten timings with 8gb vs 4gb, so if there are any 8gb suggestions, they'd have to be or ram that work well with that in mind.

I've been looking at some various g.skill sticks, but any suggestion is appreciated.


----------



## G3RG

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-277-_-Product

Get those...I've gotten my timings to 7-7-7-24 without really trying...I might be able to get them lower...just haven't really tried.


----------



## crunchie

Or the ECO's from GSkill. Mine are running with no problem 7-7-7-24-1T. Only 1.4 volts too.


----------



## Blitz6804

G3RG: I use Gigabyte's @BIOS to do my flashing. However, I download the BIOS from the website and then load it that way rather than having @BIOS download it for me. Make sure you select the clear CMOS option. This is annoying in that you will need to re-overclock everything, but it is the safest way to do it. I personally use a camera to record all screens of my BIOS pre-flash.

Tchernobyl: Like crunchie, I have the DDR3-1600 G.Skill ECO. With 2 DIMMs (in the white slots) I ran DDR3-1633 7-8-8-24-1T (spec is DDR3-1600 7-8-7-24-2T), and pulled in around 10.3 GBps. Now I have 4 DIMMs (8 GB) and run DDR3-1333 7-8-8-24-1T for 9.7 GBps. I could likely get them to clock higher if I lost the 1T command rate, but this likely gives me better bandwidth. Great for 4 GB, decent for 8 GB.


----------



## Tchernobyl

hmm, that ECO ram does indeed seem fantastic, thanks!









I think i'm taking a different approach. With the replaced mobo and ram, my sig rig's mobo/ram will be available... plus, I have an antec 900 case laying around (switched from it to my sig case), and a gts 8800 640 mb graphics card... I could slap on a cheap X2 555 on it and sell the thing!

Probably not here though, as I still lack quite a bit of rep


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Or the ECO's from GSkill. Mine are running with no problem 7-7-7-24-1T. Only 1.4 volts too.

This. Mine is the exact same. 8 gigs of it. Absolutely love this stuff.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
Ok so what's the easiest way to update the bios on the ud5?

http://www.gigabyte-usa.com/FileList...ech_a_bios.htm


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


Do you know what a "full clear cmos" entails,many people dont do it correctly.???


Well, I put the jumper on the "clear CMOS" section, Disconnected the power supply from the wall, removed the battery, held the clear CMOS button for 30 seconds, and walked away for a couple hours (battery still out, PSU still unplugged).

BTW, tried it just now with the 965 processor in place, and it booted to Windows, promptly freezing completely. Definitely not my 1090T causing the issue. It barely loaded the keyboard driver, which I'll look into removing for troubleshooting purposes, but it never had a problem with the last board.

*UPDATE* Put in the GF's board to try out...and whaddyaknow, the thing works. System boots faster, detects drives MUCH faster, and is not complaining about overclocked RAM. No instability at all. I just did some HD testing, and while it's not the greatest, it is consistent each run now. Here's a pic: 

And Gigabyte responded with the RMA code today. Hooray, now I have to find a printer.


----------



## Blitz6804

My official submission for entry into the club:

Name: Blitz6804
Board: GA-890FXA-UD5
BIOS: F3
CPU: Phenom II x6 1090T CCBBE CB 1011MPMW
Freq: 4000 MHz
Ref / multi: 250 / 16
CPU VID: 1.450 V
CPU NB VID: 1.350 V
NB Freq: 2750 MHz
NB VID: 1.150 V (stock)
Memory: G.Skill ECO DDR3-1600 CL7 (F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO) (4x2 GB) 1333 MHz 7-8-8-24-1T
RAM VID: 1.410 V
Cooling: Prolimatech Mega Shadow with Scythe Ultra Kaze push/pull @ 1600 RPM
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium x64
Stable: In spades
Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1295785

Aside of validation, I have my spread spectra off, C1E on, CnQ on, Virtualization on, and SMART on.

If you need any more information, let me know...

I am now experimenting with a higher multiplier, wish me luck!

EDIT: Doh! I just saw the submission link. So submitted.

Also, 250x17 gave me the fastest BSOD I have ever seen. I clicked one Prime.exe "OK" button, and before I can even get my mouse to the second (of four) buttons, blue screen.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Well, I put the jumper on the "clear CMOS" section, Disconnected the power supply from the wall, removed the battery, held the clear CMOS button for 30 seconds, and walked away for a couple hours (battery still out, PSU still unplugged).

BTW, tried it just now with the 965 processor in place, and it booted to Windows, promptly freezing completely. Definitely not my 1090T causing the issue. It barely loaded the keyboard driver, which I'll look into removing for troubleshooting purposes, but it never had a problem with the last board.

*UPDATE* Put in the GF's board to try out...and whaddyaknow, the thing works. System boots faster, detects drives MUCH faster, and is not complaining about overclocked RAM. No instability at all. I just did some HD testing, and while it's not the greatest, it is consistent each run now. Here's a pic: 

And Gigabyte responded with the RMA code today. Hooray, now I have to find a printer.


Well it's a dodgy board then,that sucks.Good luck with the replacement.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


My official submission for entry into the club:

Name: Blitz6804
Board: GA-890FXA-UD5
BIOS: F3
CPU: Phenom II x6 1090T CCBBE CB 1011MPMW
Freq: 4000 MHz
Ref / multi: 250 / 16
CPU VID: 1.450 V
CPU NB VID: 1.350 V
NB Freq: 2750 MHz
NB VID: 1.150 V (stock)
Memory: G.Skill ECO DDR3-1600 CL7 (F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO) (4x2 GB) 1333 MHz 7-8-8-24-1T
RAM VID: 1.410 V
Cooling: Prolimatech Mega Shadow with Scythe Ultra Kaze push/pull @ 1600 RPM
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium x64
Stable: In spades
Validation: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1295785

Aside of validation, I have my spread spectra off, C1E on, CnQ on, Virtualization on, and SMART on.

If you need any more information, let me know...

I am now experimenting with a higher multiplier, wish me luck!

EDIT: Doh! I just saw the submission link. So submitted.

Also, 250x17 gave me the fastest BSOD I have ever seen. I clicked one Prime.exe "OK" button, and before I can even get my mouse to the second (of four) buttons, blue screen.


Why are you running your ram @1333,when it's 1600,???,little info,C1E was never designed for Deneb/Thubans,it was designed for early Phenoms that had the "cold bug",so should be dissabled,your overclocking,so C&Q should be dissabled as well.And i see your using 8 gig of ram,your going to have to give it more voltage,and some more voltage to the IMC.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have always overclocked with CnQ on; while it is nice to have 4 GHz in games, it is completely worthless (and a waste of power) when just idling around. If I remember right, the reason why I left C1E on is that the voltages were unstable when turned off, but that might have been during F2.

As to the RAM, I am running at 1T command rate, and anything past about DDR3-1360 does not want to stabilize. However, when I only had 4 GB, the same RAM was happy at DDR3-1633. Where is the IMC voltage? CPU PLL?


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I have always overclocked with CnQ on; while it is nice to have 4 GHz in games, it is completely worthless (and a waste of power) when just idling around. If I remember right, the reason why I left C1E on is that the voltages were unstable when turned off, but that might have been during F2.

As to the RAM, I am running at 1T command rate, and anything past about DDR3-1360 does not want to stabilize. However, when I only had 4 GB, the same RAM was happy at DDR3-1633. Where is the IMC voltage? CPU PLL?


Well that tells me you have a weak IMC,cant handle 8 gig @1600mhz,IMC =CPU-NB.


----------



## Blitz6804

My CPU-NB is running at 1.350 V now. I had it running lower before when I tried a higher RAM speed, but since increasing it to pull of a 2750 MHz northbridge, I will give it another go.

EDIT: Well, that worked lovely. It failed to POST, reset the CMOS on me, and now Windows lacks both the ability to read my core temp (reads 0 on all cores) and my network gadget does not show my external IP. I forcibly reset the CMOS and at least I have the temps back, but the network is still AWOL.

EDIT2: Got the network gadget working again by uninstalling and reinstalling. Very strange. I put everything back to where it was (I think), it is possible I have a few of the memory sub-timings slightly different because I am getting slightly hire bandwidth. Which means I will need to reprove stability; OI!

For the record, when I set my HTT to 240, my multiplier to 6.67 (DDR3-1600 exactly), I got a rounding error in Prime within seconds, so my chip must really hate 8 GB.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
My CPU-NB is running at 1.350 V now. I had it running lower before when I tried a higher RAM speed, but since increasing it to pull of a 2750 MHz northbridge, I will give it another go.

EDIT: Well, that worked lovely. It failed to POST, reset the CMOS on me, and now Windows lacks both the ability to read my core temp (reads 0 on all cores) and my network gadget does not show my external IP. I forcibly reset the CMOS and at least I have the temps back, but the network is still AWOL.

EDIT2: Got the network gadget working again by uninstalling and reinstalling. Very strange. I put everything back to where it was (I think), it is possible I have a few of the memory sub-timings slightly different because I am getting slightly hire bandwidth. Which means I will need to reprove stability; OI!

For the record, when I set my HTT to 240, my multiplier to 6.67 (DDR3-1600 exactly), I got a rounding error in Prime within seconds, so my chip must really hate 8 GB.

What voltages are you using,1.350 for 2750mhz on the NB seems very high,i only use 1.3v for a NB of 3.0ghz,and 1.475v for my cpu @4.2ghz 24/7 use.Is your ram rated @ 1T or 2T,???


----------



## Blitz6804

It is rated for DDR3-1600 7-8-7-24-2T-40 @ 1.350 V.

EDIT: I admit I have been clocking this hardware combination "fast and loose" compared to my normal methodical ways. I have been so busy studying for the bar I have been just throwing settings around and hoping they stick. Normally, I sit down and test every possible thing to its fullest before trying optimum settings.

That said, I am going to give 3.0 GHz on the CPU-NB with 1.300 V a try as you suggested. I know when I had 4 GB of memory, I needed a lot of CPU-NB voltage to make it stable, I assumed due to the northbridge speed, but now I am thinking more likely that the RAM was to blame. We will see.

EDIT2: Instant lockup upon loading my 4-Prime battery. Not a blue or black screen, but a hard freeze.


----------



## moorhen2

Thats memory related,try just using 4 gig,use the two memory slots furthest away from the cpu,and give the memory some more juice.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I know it is. I just bought the extra 4 GB because I needed it; literally, I put it in four days ago. (I kept running out of 4 GB.) So I will just have to live with the 600 MBps loss between 4 GB at DDR3-1667 (10.3 GBps) and 8 GB at DDR3-1333 (9.7 GBps). In my mind, the difference is negligible, and in fact, despite it being physically slower, frame rates in some games are higher, perhaps indicating that the former was not entirely stable.


----------



## ryman546

has anyone been having problems with the ud7 poppin with a 1090t? Still worried about northbridge/southbridge temps.


----------



## Xantos12

I figured out how to change my multiplier in bios I think.


----------



## Xantos12

yeah, basically i want a templete or what i can do to my current specs to bump it to 4.0. I'm running stock cooler until next payday, then its the h50 i think.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sparhawk: 2 DIMMs work fine in excess of DR3-1600 here, but 4 DIMMs are hesitant to go much past DDR3-1333.

Not that that is necessarily a problem, I am now experimenting with CL6 (I had CL7). I was going to play with CL5, but the bandwidth is lower than CL6, so I already know it is unstable.


----------



## alphabot

i've read a few people who say ram should be in slots 3-4, not 1-2. is there any benefit to this? currently mine are in 1-2


----------



## Blitz6804

Mods please delete; webfail.


----------



## Xantos12

yup on stock cooling until I get a h50 next month


----------



## Xantos12

I need some help reaching 4.0. Here is a link to my cpu-z. Any tips for a second time computer builder/first time overclocker?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1299175


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


has anyone been having problems with the ud7 poppin with a 1090t? Still worried about northbridge/southbridge temps.


What do you mean by poppin,NB/SB temps are very good on this board,could be those "green team" gpu's your using,lol!!!


----------



## Sparhawk

I'm thinking of getting one of these in the future. 
Please correct me if I am wrong but I though the ram speed issue was tied to how many slots are populated not how many GB you have. 
I figured I could buy two 4GB sticks and keep a faster speed. Any insight here?


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xantos12*


I need some help reaching 4.0. Here is a link to my cpu-z. Any tips for a second time computer builder/first time overclocker?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1299175


What do you ned to know,voltages etc etc,???


----------



## xcooling

For those with memory blues... 8GB (4 dimms) @ 1600mhz is possible and stable

*8GB OCZ Reaper HPC (4 x 2GB) DDR3 PC12800

memory 1600mhz @ 7-7-7-16 cmd rate 1T 
otherwise 
1600mhz @ 6-6-6-15 cmd rate 2T*

100% stable 24/7, memtest for 48hours..


----------



## Blitz6804

Congratz xcooling. I am curious, what sub-timings did you have to play with? Mine did not really want to play nice, so I am instead leaving the speed alone and going after the timings.


----------



## Xantos12

Any ideas on what to do to my system to help it reach 4.0 stable on stock cooling for the moment?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1299175


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xantos12*


Any ideas on what to do to my system to help it reach 4.0 stable on stock cooling for the moment?

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1299175


Read post #842


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alphabot*


i've read a few people who say ram should be in slots 3-4, not 1-2. is there any benefit to this? currently mine are in 1-2


Use of slots 3 & 4 is for reaching higher RAM speed. IE: above 1600Mhz.


----------



## alphabot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Use of slots 3 & 4 is for reaching higher RAM speed. IE: above 1600Mhz.


so if i plan at staying 1333ish or 1600, 1-2 vs 3-4 makes no diff?


----------



## Blitz6804

3/4 (the white ones) is still supposedly more stable.

To all: I just discovered today, that we DO have a profile system with this board after all. In the main page of the BIOS, hit F11 to save your current settings to a slot, F12 to load a saved profile. Apologies if this was stated earlier (I haven't read through the page yet since OCN has been going up and down the last few hours) but I thought I would share.


----------



## lancermagi

Question.

I just bought a UD5 and G.Skill Trident 4GB 1600MHz DDR3.

At the back of the G.Skill Trident labelling, it says 8-8-8-24 1600MHz 1.6V. I changed all and in Bios to the stated settings however, i can't change it to 1.6V. In the m/b bios, there is only 1.59V to 1.61V until 1.65V etc. There is no 1.6V.

Anyway, I set it to 1.59V and run memtest. No problems surfaced. Does that mean its stable at 1.59V even thought the packaging says 1.6V?


----------



## G3RG

1.59 is close enough to 1.6...you'll be fine

You might even me good at 1.575...


----------



## lancermagi

Quote:



1.59 is close enough to 1.6...you'll be fine

You might even me good at 1.575...


I did a 1 pass memtest86+ and no errors. Sounds stable?


----------



## crunchie

Give memtest about 5 runs to be sure. The figures given by the companies are the 'guaranteed to run at' figures, though they may run better timings/lower volts.


----------



## lancermagi

Quote:



Give memtest about 5 runs to be sure. The figures given by the companies are the 'guaranteed to run at' figures, though they may run better timings/lower volts.


Sure thing. Thanks for the tips.


----------



## klaxian

Any ideas why my System temperature (SB?) steadily rises to around 50C after some time using my computer? At idle, it will be at 49C and 51C at load. It gradually makes its way up to this temperature and stays there. Is this too high? Where is the SB exactly? Is it possible that my video hard is sitting on top of it and heating things up? Thanks.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


Any ideas why my System temperature (SB?) steadily rises to around 50C after some time using my computer? At idle, it will be at 49C and 51C at load. It gradually makes its way up to this temperature and stays there. Is this too high? Where is the SB exactly? Is it possible that my video hard is sitting on top of it and heating things up? Thanks.


It is a possibility. The right end of the card generally sits directly on top of the south bridge, especially if you have a long card.

The south bridge is on the right side of the board about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom, and just to the left of the SATA ports. There should be a heat sink on it from the factory.


----------



## Xantos12

Sign me up 
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1299647

Completely stable on stock voltage. Still searching for that stable 4.0

Love the board, have had an easy trial and error overclocking experience so far.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


It is a possibility. The right end of the card generally sits directly on top of the south bridge, especially if you have a long card.

The south bridge is on the right side of the board about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom, and just to the left of the SATA ports. There should be a heat sink on it from the factory.


Thanks for the input. From your description, it does seem that my long Radeon HD 5850 is probably sitting on the SB. Since this is the case, is it safe and acceptable to see SB temps hovering around 50C with ambient 26C? What is the max SB temp?


----------



## Blitz6804

What program are you using to read "System Temp?" Everest on my end only shows "Motherboard," which matches TMPIN0 of HW Monitor; both read 38Âº C in my 21Âº C ambient with 100% load on all six cores and 50% load on both GPU cores. (TMPIN1 = "CPU" of Everest = 47Âº C*; TMPIN2 I have not discovered what it is yet, I want to say PWM, as it is up to 57Âº C and I have a tower, not a blow-down, CPU cooler.)

And yes, your HD 5850 likely partially covers the southbridge. However, I do not believe it would get to 50Âº C even under load in a 26Âº C ambient, partially because there is really nothing for the southbridge to heat up with, for one, and the heat pipe goes to the NB for additional cooling, for two. (I could be wrong however.) my Southbridge is certainly blocked by my HD 5970, which not only blocks the southbridge and my SATA ports, but the first two or three inches of the SATA wires themselves.

*{Cores in Everest read 39Âº C, so I have a 13Âº C offset programed into CoreTemp giving me 52Âº C; Thubans are broken to that tune}


----------



## Xantos12

I would like to know what application can show north/south bridge temps since my bios does not


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
What program are you using to read "System Temp?" Everest on my end only shows "Motherboard," which matches TMPIN0 of HW Monitor; both read 38Âº C in my 21Âº C ambient with 100% load on all six cores and 50% load on both GPU cores. (TMPIN1 = "CPU" of Everest = 47Âº C*; TMPIN2 I have not discovered what it is yet, I want to say PWM, as it is up to 57Âº C and I have a tower, not a blow-down, CPU cooler.)

And yes, your HD 5850 likely partially covers the southbridge. However, I do not believe it would get to 50Âº C even under load in a 26Âº C ambient, partially because there is really nothing for the southbridge to heat up with, for one, and the heat pipe goes to the NB for additional cooling, for two. (I could be wrong however.) my Southbridge is certainly blocked by my HD 5970, which not only blocks the southbridge and my SATA ports, but the first two or three inches of the SATA wires themselves.

*{Cores in Everest read 39Âº C, so I have a 13Âº C offset programed into CoreTemp giving me 52Âº C; Thubans are broken to that tune}

I am using SpeedFan and EasyTune6 to monitor temps. I just turned on the machine and I am sitting at idle - temp0: 39C, temp1: 30C, temp2: 36C. From reading this thread and comparing applications, I am fairly confident that temp0 is the "system" and temp1 is CPU. I think temp2 is the NB and it makes sense by its load pattern. I assumed "system" meant SB. Am I incorrect?

The temp0 is very slowly rising (1C every 10 mins or so). It will rise faster if I run prime95, but not as quickly as you'd expect as if it was being loaded directly. Once it reaches around 49C, it will hover around there and not go higher. Perhaps the air temperature in my case rises too much under load? I have quite a bit of negative pressure in the case. Maybe it's too much?

Another thought I had is that the heat could be coming from the NB (temp2) since they are connected. My NB is overclocked and gets to 55C at max load.

Maybe I'm completely wrong and temp0 ("system") does not measure SB temp. Thoughts?


----------



## Tchernobyl

ordered the mobo and ram









since those are really the main two things I'm changing, I kinda want to track the performance difference. Any suggestions on what to use?

Such as 3dmark benchmarks, superpi, prime for stability, etc etc etc


----------



## Blitz6804

klaxian: Does TEMP0 go down after load is relieved? Is the difference between TEMP0 and Core consistent? TEMP1 and Core?

Using HWMonitor and Everest, I am confident that its TEMPIN1 is the CPU temp, since there is always exactly 8Âº C between it and Core; 8Âº C exactly, never differing.

*Opens EasyTune6.*

I do not give much faith or credit to this, it is showing my HTT as 252 when CPUz, Everest, the BIOS, and everything else shows it as 250. Moving right along... "System" matches TMPIN0 of HWMonitor and Motherboard of Everest; all three presently read 37Âº C. Similarly, TMPIN1 of HWMontitor, CPU of Everest, and CPU of EasyTune6 are all in agreement at 44Âº C. TMPIN2 remains independent to HWMonitor, being found no-where else. I will be able to comment on TMPIN0 and TMPIN2 better after I remove load off the CPU. That will not be until at least 8:30am tomorrow when stability testing concludes. (I am presently testing my RAM at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T, tRC = 20, tRFC = 110ns, all other subtimings at their DDR3-800 settings, and am stable almost 4 hours now.)

My case temp is pretty stable, ranging only between 22-23Âº C. I have (by hypothesis) positive case pressure since I have three intakes (2x120 + 1x250), two exhausts (1x120 + HD 5970), and a passive top vent which just barely hovers a piece of paper over the surface.

Tchernobyl: For 4 GB of RAM, I go two Prime95 clients on "Blend" + Kombustor or Furmark. For 8 GB of RAM, I go four Prime95 clients on "Blend" + Komnbustor or Furmark.

For testing, Everest gives you really good raw scores on bandwidths. Be sure to do 5-7 tests, discount the slowest and fastest and average the middle. For real-world testing, nothing to do but boot some games.


----------



## klaxian

I have an update on my temperature situation. After running another CPU/memory stress test with better ventilation today, the System (SB) temp only changes from 39-41C and hovers around 40C. The CPU and NB max out at 48C and 52C respectively and they rapidly drop when I conclude the test.

With a GPU stress test, I saw the system (SB) temperature rise more to about 45C, but the CPU and NB temps did not rise much (as expected). I attribute this to the heat that my GPU produces and the fact that it's non-reference cooler vents inside the case as well as out.

With normal gaming, each component is stressed to some extent. With better overall ventilation, it seems like the temperatures are not an issue. However, once my "system" temp rises, it seems to take a while at idle to drop.


----------



## Tchernobyl

two clients? as in, two separate instances of prime 95 running tests at the same time?


----------



## klaxian

blitz, my core and temp1 are always consistent with each other. They both drop rapidly when load is relieved. With my new Hyper212+ cooler, I'm not too concerned about the CPU temp. Assuming that temp3 is the NB, I'm not too concerned with that either since it maxes out at 52C with prime95. The anomaly seemed to be temp0, which was reported as "system" and I am guessing to be the SB. It now hovers around 40C at idle and up to 45C or more under load. The SB is covered by my video card and probably doesn't get good ventilation. However, I suppose 45C isn't too bad and I should just stop trying to look for a specific cause


----------



## Blitz6804

klaxian: Ah, the non-reference cooler makes sense. Whereas mine intakes air near the SB and exhausts out the rear of the case, drawing air in the middle of the card and blowing into the case could cause higher temps in the vicinity of the card.

For sake of argument, I tried poking at the southbridge heatsink while running. It was a little warmer than the tips of my Mega Shadow's heat pipes, cooler than the RAM heat spreaders. I cannot reach the NB heatsink or the PWM heatsink because of the Mega Shadow, GPU, and Ultra Kazes being in the way.

Tchernobyl: Yep, two separate clients. Note, each must be in its own folder. I personally have a Prime95, within which is "Local 1" and "Local 2" (recently extended to 3 / 4), each containing a Prime. Have each use all available cores.


----------



## Xantos12

Anyone running a 1090t at 4.0 stable within 1.4 volts?


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Tchernobyl: Yep, two separate clients. Note, each must be in its own folder. I personally have a Prime95, within which is "Local 1" and "Local 2" (recently extended to 3 / 4), each containing a Prime. Have each use all available cores.


that... sounds like a recipe for cpu melting, to be honest >.>

Mostly looking for speed tests, as i know my current clock speed isn't actually stable in prime, though it works just fine with everything else (gaming, other benchmarks, etc)


----------



## Blitz6804

Xantos12: I needed 1.440 V, 1.392 V topped out at 3840 MHz.

Tchernobyl: To be honest, I can get it hotter. 4xPrime + Kombustor tops out at 54Âº C. S&M's FPU test will bring it up to 60Âº C.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xantos12*


Anyone running a 1090t at 4.0 stable within 1.4 volts?


Mine will run fine @ 4Ghz with 1.375vcore. Maybe a little lower, but I have yet to try.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well crunchie, yours is also water cooled. Proven fact, cooler STARS processors need less voltage to do the same things, which is why voltage can only get us so far. Also, what deems "stable" for you? Different definitions amount to different speeds.


----------



## crunchie

3DMark06, 3DMark Vantage, IBT, OCCT, all run with no problem at those settings.
My theory is that if it doesn't crash, it's all good







.


----------



## Xantos12

Intel burn test or prime95 work out for you?


----------



## Tchernobyl

actually, a question for you guys!

I have my current win 7 64 installed and whatnot, but will be changing my motherboard and ram.

Is it still nescessary to format/reinstall to get things working? Or is there a workaround nowadays? Googling has given me mixed answers, figured someone would know here~


----------



## Metonymy

I swapped mobo's and doubled my RAM. No reinstall was necessary. Slap your system back together and see how it turns out.


----------



## auriya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


actually, a question for you guys!

I have my current win 7 64 installed and whatnot, but will be changing my motherboard and ram.

Is it still nescessary to format/reinstall to get things working? Or is there a workaround nowadays? Googling has given me mixed answers, figured someone would know here~


Windows7 crapped itself when i changed mb/cpu/ram.
It went from being activated to having 3 days of use. Had to ring MS as internet activation wouldn't work. I didn't tell them what i did, except i changed some hardware and it was the same HDD. They fixed it up for me.
However since i turned turbo core on its been really slow loading. Not sure if i can be bothered formating again, only did it like 4 weeks ago lol


----------



## Blitz6804

Tchernobyl: It _should_ work. A 790FX / SB750 to Windows looks remarkably similar to an 890FX / SB850. The drivers used, I believe, are identical. (Similar to replacing an HD 4850 with an HD 5770.) I know I have actually done more drastic changes (replacing an nVidia nForce 3 with an ATi CFX3200), and Windows 7 was able to handle it, even if XP I had to fiddle with to make it work.

In all events, however, I have a retail copy of Windows. Remember if your Windows is OEM, you MUST buy a new license with the new motherboard.

auriya: My guess is that it is turbo messing up; it is overclocking three cores, and then loading Windows with the other three. This is why I turned my turbo off and went with the fastest overclock I could get.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xantos12*


Intel burn test or prime95 work out for you?


IBT = Intel Burn Test. I thought I would try again, this time using the HTT frequency instead of the multi.
Attachment 164546
As you can see, I was able to do 5 passes of IBT on 1.344vcore with no problem.
Tomorrow I will see how it goes running 3DMark on the same settings.

I had previously done 5 passes with IBT @ 4ghz with 1.375vcore using multi only and passed, but I tried again later today on the same settings and failed on the 3rd pass.

I am not saying this is rock solid stable, as it probably isn't, but it is reasonably close.


----------



## Tchernobyl

I....don't think I got an OEM license. Remember that student deal to get win7 pro for cheap? That's what I have.


----------



## Blitz6804

The student deal is an upgrade license. The Windows 7 license is identical to the underlying operating system it upgraded. If your Vista / XP was OEM, so too is your Windows 7.

For those curious, I have just uploaded pictures of my exact CPU, Voltage, RAM, and HDD settings in the BIOS. I have also shown pictures of what happens when you use F11/F12 (there is also some extra nonsense there, so ignore after the second picture) if it is any help to anyone.

fidof650: Can you edit my club entry? Under memory, change to:

Code:



Code:


G.Skill ECO DDR3-1600 CL7 / 4x2 GB / DDR3-1333 / 6-7-7-18-1T-20

and under CPU NB VID Control, change to:

Code:



Code:


1.275 (+0.125)

The new CPU-Z validation is:

Code:



Code:


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1301892

Thanks!


----------



## auriya

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Tchernobyl: It _should_ work. A 790FX / SB750 to Windows looks remarkably similar to an 890FX / SB850. The drivers used, I believe, are identical. (Similar to replacing an HD 4850 with an HD 5770.) I know I have actually done more drastic changes (replacing an nVidia nForce 3 with an ATi CFX3200), and Windows 7 was able to handle it, even if XP I had to fiddle with to make it work.

In all events, however, I have a retail copy of Windows. Remember if your Windows is OEM, you MUST buy a new license with the new motherboard.

auriya: My guess is that it is turbo messing up; it is overclocking three cores, and then loading Windows with the other three. This is why I turned my turbo off and went with the fastest overclock I could get.

My version is oem. I purchased it about a month before i bought my new mb/cpu/ram. I always use OEM since I build my own.
Windows lags out a ton when you get to welcome... takes about 20seconds to load. I'm not sure if i want to manually O/C yet. Is there much point in O/C when im only using 20% of the cpu with games?


----------



## Blitz6804

Absolutely auriya... it will load Windows faster and the operating system as a whole will be much snappier. If you are concerned about the environment, do what I do: leave Cool 'n' Quiet on. If you need 4.0 GHz, it will use it. Else, it putters along quite happily with only 1.0 GHz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
IBT = Intel Burn Test. I thought I would try again, this time using the HTT frequency instead of the multi.
Attachment 164546
As you can see, I was able to do 5 passes of IBT on 1.344vcore with no problem.
Tomorrow I will see how it goes running 3DMark on the same settings.

I had previously done 5 passes with IBT @ 4ghz with 1.375vcore using multi only and passed, but I tried again later today on the same settings and failed on the 3rd pass.

I am not saying this is rock solid stable, as it probably isn't, but it is reasonably close.

I posit that it may not very stable at all. I did 500 passes of LinX (IBT with a different GUI) and it crashed within minutes of loading up [email protected] IBT can get a pretty decent push on temperatures (S&M pushes harder however) but it hardly can act as a stability tester in my mind.


----------



## auriya

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Absolutely auriya... it will load Windows faster and the operating system as a whole will be much snappier. If you are concerned about the environment, do what I do: leave Cool 'n' Quiet on. If you need 4.0 GHz, it will use it. Else, it putters along quite happily with only 1.0 GHz.

Heat isn't a real problem at the moment as its winter.
Problem is lack of knowledge and the stock cooler, probably limited to 3.8 max atm.
Noticed you can only set the ram up to 1600 in the bios, weird.
How do you work out what value you need for NB?
I dont get why you can't just get increase the top value and ignore cpu frequency.
linx good for testing ram and cpu stability?


----------



## Blitz6804

I did not mean for heat, I meant for power purposes. According to HWMonitor, my CPU uses 60 W at 1.0 GHz, and 142 W at 4.0 GHz. Most of the day it is running closer to the 60 W than the 142 W. Compare that to stock with CnQ off (but turbo on) in that it will always run around 125 W.

I noticed too with the RAM, and it is not that weird. Misleading (perhaps), but not weird. According to AMD, DDR3-1600 is the highest reference setting. Gigabyte says that if you are using the white slots, it will do DDR3-1866 (O.C.). What that means, is according to Gigabyte, the board will do a minimum of 233 MHz HTT with only slots 3/4 populated. (DDR3-1600 divider with 233 MHz HTT is 1864 on the RAM.)

For my stability testing an 4 GB of memory, I would run 2 instances of Prime95 "Blend," each using all six cores, and run a copy of Kombustor in the background. Kombustor is intended to provide load to the Hypertransport, which Prime95 does not do.


----------



## vindiesel

Hi there,

are my temps to high?

TMPIN0 = 53 degrees celsius
TMPIN1 = 57
TMPIN2 = 58

I measured it with HW Monitor after 15 mins Prime.
I have the GA-890FXA-UD5 with X6 1090T and everthing is stock yet, even the cooler. ;-)


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated.

Please, e-mail me if I have made any oversights or errors.

Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

What are your ambient temperatures vindiesel? Because I get 38Âº C on TMPIN0 and 47Âº C on TMPIN1 with a 25% overclock. TMPIN2 matches mine. If you add your system to your signature, it will be easier to help you in future.


----------



## decimator

TMPIN1 = CPU temp. It's best to keep it at 55 and under. TMPIN2 = NB temp. This can go all the way up to 75*C, so don't worry about this one. TEMPIN0 = ambient temp (I think). Seems a little high, but high ambient temps never killed any systems (although it does hinder your overclock).


----------



## vindiesel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
What are your ambient temperatures vindiesel? Because I get 38Âº C on TMPIN0 and 47Âº C on TMPIN1 with a 25% overclock. TMPIN2 matches mine.

Room temp is 24 degree.
Maybe the heatpipe is not fitting well?!

I got a Asus Crosshair IV first, but decided to go on a Gigabyte after I got 2 Crosshaiv IV with temperature probs, because the heatpipe had no contact with NB/SB.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, according to decimate, TMPIN0 is the "ambient" sensor. (A claim I am uncertain if I believe since probes all around the inside of my case register in the low/mid 20s; if it is between the socket and the retention bracket though I might believe it.) How is your case's airflow? Looking at the Lian LI PC-A70A online, it appears the front intakes are pretty heavily blocked by the hard drive cages. If you take the door off, what happens to temperatures? If you turn the case on its side (such that the cooler is up, the board is down) what happens to temps? If the heat pipes are pulling off the board at all, that would fix the problem.

I do agree, however, that TMPIN1 is your CPU temperature. At 57Âº C, your cores are up to 62Âº C, their thermal maximum, and you should not attempt overclocking until you improve your cooling options.


----------



## vindiesel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
How is your case's airflow?

Well, I got 6 fans. 2 in the front door, 2 behind that and 2 in the rear of the case.

Quote:

If the heat pipes are pulling off the board at all, that would fix the problem.
What do you mean?


----------



## Blitz6804

I meant in terms of gravity. If the pipes were loose, they would angle away from the board while the board is in the vertical position. If they are not loose, they will remain tight regardless of the board orientation.


----------



## auriya

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I did not mean for heat, I meant for power purposes. According to HWMonitor, my CPU uses 60 W at 1.0 GHz, and 142 W at 4.0 GHz. Most of the day it is running closer to the 60 W than the 142 W. Compare that to stock with CnQ off (but turbo on) in that it will always run around 125 W.

I noticed too with the RAM, and it is not that weird. Misleading (perhaps), but not weird. According to AMD, DDR3-1600 is the highest reference setting. Gigabyte says that if you are using the white slots, it will do DDR3-1866 (O.C.). What that means, is according to Gigabyte, the board will do a minimum of 233 MHz HTT with only slots 3/4 populated. (DDR3-1600 divider with 233 MHz HTT is 1864 on the RAM.)

For my stability testing an 4 GB of memory, I would run 2 instances of Prime95 "Blend," each using all six cores, and run a copy of Kombustor in the background. Kombustor is intended to provide load to the Hypertransport, which Prime95 does not do.

I was tinkering with it and the only way to raise the ram past 1600mhz is tweaking the cpu freq. You can go over 1800, I couldn't get to 1866 exact, awlays got under or over.
Probably would kill the board going over 1866 though.
Whenever i changed the cpu freq, the cpu ratio and nb adjusted automaticcaly.
So i don't know whats the point of adjusting cpu ratio and nb, since they both seemed tired to the value of cpu freq.
To get 1800mhz the cpu with adjusted its clock automatically to 3600 from 3200. I didn't pay attention to NB.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Well, according to decimate, TMPIN0 is the "ambient" sensor. (A claim I am uncertain if I believe since probes all around the inside of my case register in the low/mid 20s; if it is between the socket and the retention bracket though I might believe it.)


To be honest, I'm not sure myself if TMPIN0 is ambient temps. It's just what seems most likely. We've been trying to figure out what it is ever since we first got this board. It seems a little too high for SB temp, and judging by the way it increases when you start a stress test, it being some sort of system temp makes sense. You're probably right in that it's a sensor somewhere around the socket.

Everyone is in general agreement, though, that TMPIN1 is CPU temp and TMPIN2 is NB temp.


----------



## Blitz6804

To be honest, I would be more inclined to believe that TMPIN0 is Northbridge, and TMPIN2 is the PWMs.


----------



## Xantos12

is around 40 degrees good for NB idle?


----------



## lancermagi

Question.

I have a 1090T and UD5 m/b. If I change the multipler to 18x to get an OC of 3.6GHz, do I need to change the voltage? Or leave it as normal/auto?


----------



## Xantos12

leave it auto/normal. THAT is MY EXACT OVERCLOCK.

I won't keep voltage from stock 24/7 until i get a new cooler from stock.


----------



## lancermagi

Quote:



leave it auto/normal. THAT is MY EXACT OVERCLOCK.

I won't keep voltage from stock 24/7 until i get a new cooler from stock.


Awesome. Thanks.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


IBT can get a pretty decent push on temperatures (S&M pushes harder however) but it hardly can act as a stability tester in my mind.


Different strokes for different blokes I suppose







.
Some folks will tell you that you are not stable until you have run every stress test there is. Unfortunately, that leaves little time to actually enjoy the computer







.
For me, if the pc does not crash doing everything I want to do on it, it is stable enough.


----------



## lancermagi

I ran CPU-Z went to Memory and saw my DRAM Freq at 803.6MHz. Went to SPD tab, slot #3 & #4, and their freq were at 800MHz. How come it is at 800MHz when I already setted them to 1600MHz in the bios?

Anyone knows?


----------



## crunchie

It is double data RAM. CPU_z is reading correct







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lancermagi*


Question.

I have a 1090T and UD5 m/b. If I change the multipler to 18x to get an OC of 3.6GHz, do I need to change the voltage? Or leave it as normal/auto?


Most likely you will be able to leave it at auto. Only way to tell is to stress it and see if it is stable.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lancermagi*


I ran CPU-Z went to Memory and saw my DRAM Freq at 803.6MHz. Went to SPD tab, slot #3 & #4, and their freq were at 800MHz. How come it is at 800MHz when I already setted them to 1600MHz in the bios?

Anyone knows?


As crunchie said, the RAM is Double Data Rate (DDR), and as such, 803.6 MHz = DDR3-1607.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Different strokes for different blokes I suppose







.
Some folks will tell you that you are not stable until you have run every stress test there is. Unfortunately, that leaves little time to actually enjoy the computer







.
For me, if the pc does not crash doing everything I want to do on it, it is stable enough.


Which is why I have to computers. While one is testing all day, I can use the other at least. It just takes about a week to get the "perfect" overclock in my experience.


----------



## vindiesel

I have a problem with the board:
Sometimes my keyboard (dinovo edge) is not recognized under win 7.
The OS tells me that it could not detect the USB-Port correctly and when this is the case, my SATA-HDD (Western Digital) has not been detected neither in the Bios, nor in win 7.
After I unplugged the logitech usb-dongle and put it back again everything seems to work fine.

The Board has already the newest Bios F3 and yes, I also tried different ports with the same sporadic problem.

Any ideas?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Which is why I have to computers. While one is testing all day, I can use the other at least. It just takes about a week to get the "perfect" overclock in my experience.


Same here, as in, I have my 940BE running on a DFI DK 790FXB M2RSH in a case as my 'main' rig, and am playing with the 1090T out-of-case in my bedroom.
Just ran Prime95 64bit for an hour @ 4Ghz with 1.344vcore and passed no problem.
Then ran 3DMark06 at same settings.
Attachment 164697Attachment 164698Attachment 164699
Will try another notch down on vcore tomorrow.


----------



## lancermagi

Quote:



It is double data RAM. CPU_z is reading correct


Cool, thanks!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Well, I put the jumper on the "clear CMOS" section, Disconnected the power supply from the wall, removed the battery, held the clear CMOS button for 30 seconds, and walked away for a couple hours (battery still out, PSU still unplugged).

BTW, tried it just now with the 965 processor in place, and it booted to Windows, promptly freezing completely. Definitely not my 1090T causing the issue. It barely loaded the keyboard driver, which I'll look into removing for troubleshooting purposes, but it never had a problem with the last board.

*UPDATE* Put in the GF's board to try out...and whaddyaknow, the thing works. System boots faster, detects drives MUCH faster, and is not complaining about overclocked RAM. No instability at all. I just did some HD testing, and while it's not the greatest, it is consistent each run now. Here's a pic: 

And Gigabyte responded with the RMA code today. Hooray, now I have to find a printer.



Left the machine off for the weekend, came back, and tried. GF's board and processor, my RAM, vid card, and hard drives. Thing gave two IRQL BSOD...different board. I also started looking at the filter driver. The thing has not been installed, and doesn't seem to ever be (although I tried earlier, and tried again twice last night, with it never showing as installed). I've just been using the regular Catalyst installer. My SATA controllers are also still using the stock Microsoft drivers (don't know if that should be changing or not, as my last board didn't, and it was fine). Now I'm becoming even less sure of what it is, although the new board definitely doesn't complain about RAM, or lock when detecting hard drives before loading Windows. Any more ideas?


----------



## Shroomalistic

has anyone had luck useing the onboard gigaraid? freaking thing is driving me nuts. 2 velociraptors in raid 0 give a max of 160mb/s , my sandforce vertex le in ahci give the same max. I think the chip is very limited. only reason why I was using it was I needed to run my raptors in raid and still have the ssd on ahci for trim support. I ended up running everything on the amd raid controller with no trim for ssd but get almost full performance out of them all. my wei score for my ssd went down to 7.5 from 7.7 but no biggy. its not a big enough different to matter and I can do the "trim" manually.


----------



## Blitz6804

Congrats on that crunchie; you have the same CPU overclock I do (250x16; 11x NB; 8x HT) but are doing it with 100 mV less. You have no idea how jealous I am.

Sorry Shroomalistic, I have only used the SB850 with hard drives. The other controller is only running my optical drives.


----------



## alphabot

on the temps thing (using hwmonitor), should i be focusing on tmpin1 or cpu core temp? i'm sure it's the same with everyone, but my tmpin1 is always about 8-10c above the cpu core temp so i just figured the tmpin1 was the socket temp or something


----------



## Blitz6804

That depends on the CPU I believe. From what I have been seeing on Google, the Thuban core temp sensor is messed up, and reads about 13Âº C too low. In all AMD processors I have ever used, the core temp is 5-8Âº C warmer than the "CPU" temp, so I would either use CoreTemp to put a curve on your core temp (if it is too low) or assume that your core temp is 5-8Âº C above your CPU temp. For an x2 555 BE, published spec is 70Âº C, so I would keep your "CPU" temp below 62Âº C.


----------



## alphabot

yeah the most my tmpin1 gets to now is 52c, so i'll leave it at that for now. however a really really strange thing happened the other night while testing. hwmonitor said tmpin1's max got to 95c! i just assumed it was a software error because when i watched it and watched it, it never got above 52. core temps stayed below 44c too (it's max was 45c which is why i didnt beleive the 95c tmpin1)


----------



## Blitz6804

I know that every once and a while there are sensor glitches. I recall once I was running my Brisbane through OCCT and it went from 51Âº C to 123Âº C for a quarter of a second, and then back down to 51Âº C. It happens.


----------



## auriya

i believe easytune 6 or another gigabyte tool that comes with our mainboards slows windows 7 load speeds, causes a hang at welcome when your pc boots.


----------



## auriya

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Congrats on that crunchie; you have the same CPU overclock I do (250x16; 11x NB; 8x HT) but are doing it with 100 mV less. You have no idea how jealous I am.

Sorry Shroomalistic, I have only used the SB850 with hard drives. The other controller is only running my optical drives.

dam his temp are the same as mine not o/c.


----------



## Blitz6804

He is also under water, you are using the stock cooler if I remember right. I get about two* degrees warmer than he does with a single instance of Prime, but considering I have higher voltage, that is sort of to be expected. On the other hand, considering it is about 27Âº F (15Âº C) where he is than I am right now, maybe it is not a fair comparison?

In any event, decent water cooling will beat most air cooling, even high-end stuff, and absolutely destroy the stock cooler.

*His screenshot shows 33Âº C core, 40Âº C CPU; mine shows 35Âº C core, 42Âº C CPU. My cores are actually running at an estimated 48Âº C given the curve I mentioned you have to (and I did) apply for Thubans.


----------



## auriya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


He is also under water, you are using the stock cooler if I remember right. I get about two* degrees warmer than he does with a single instance of Prime, but considering I have higher voltage, that is sort of to be expected. On the other hand, considering it is about 27Âº F (15Âº C) where he is than I am right now, maybe it is not a fair comparison?

In any event, decent water cooling will beat most air cooling, even high-end stuff, and absolutely destroy the stock cooler.

*His screenshot shows 33Âº C core, 40Âº C CPU; mine shows 35Âº C core, 42Âº C CPU. My cores are actually running at an estimated 48Âº C given the curve I mentioned you have to (and I did) apply for Thubans.


Pretty much. Although supposely corsair h50 and noctua d14 are pretty close. But i guess h50 isn't that high end for water cooling. There both pretty expensive atleast here.
My memory has a stupid fan, so most of the coolers are too big. I guess i could ditch the fan. But it makes sense considering how hot memory gets.


----------



## Stilly

New f4d Beta Bios is out for the UD5. States it fix's audio noise when using ET6 in Win7.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stilly*


New f4d Beta Bios is out for the UD5. States it fix's audio noise when using ET6 in Win7.


Can you "downgrade" once you've updated?


----------



## auriya

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilly* 
New f4d Beta Bios is out for the UD5. States it fix's audio noise when using ET6 in Win7.

audio noise? Never heard anything, but im pretty sure et6 slows down windows 7 boot up.. I uninstalled it and i boot faster.


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Can you "downgrade" once you've updated?


I know on past boards I have been able to downgrade and would think that if this BIOS is the same size kb wise you should not have a problem.

Upgrade at your own risk.... YMMV


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I upgraded even though I don't have a problem. Well, I do with overclocking to 4.0ghz, you never know if a re-flash might help.


----------



## Stilly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


I upgraded even though I don't have a problem. Well, I do with overclocking to 4.0ghz, you never know if a re-flash might help.










How is it working for you so far?


----------



## Lou_001

Is the CM 690 case big enough for a 890FXA-UD5 board?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stilly*


How is it working for you so far?


The bios is fine, but my OC still isn't. FFFFFFFFFFFF this is so annoying.


----------



## Blitz6804

Lou_001, the Coolermaster RC-690? Should fit a GA-890FXA-UD*5* no problem, as the UD5 is ATX spec. A UD*7* will not fit.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stilly*


I know on past boards I have been able to downgrade and would think that if this BIOS is the same size kb wise you should not have a problem.

Upgrade at your own risk.... YMMV


Well, I don't use ET6 (or any version), so I'll hold off until the masses can give some feedback about the changes they see in it.

I'd really like to see the RAM voltages in smaller increments than .1V. I'd love to see .025 or .05.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Agreed. Some of the voltage adjustments are not my cup o' tea. Also...fan control. I just sent out my wonky UD5 today. I hope to have the replacement (hoping either UPS crushes it and it's replaced, or Gigabyte sends me a new board) in about 3 weeks, although I think that's wishing a bit hard. Maybe when I get it back we'll know about the new BIOS and how it responds.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


considering it is about 27Âº F (15Âº C) where he is than I am right now, maybe it is not a fair comparison?


Last time I checked, 27F was 3C below


----------



## lancermagi

Will performance improve if I add another 4GB on top of my 4GB?

Aside from that, slot#1 & #2 can't be OC to 1600MHz can they?


----------



## G3RG

You probably wont see an improvement unless your doing some heavy rendering etc, and it could hurt your stability/max oc


----------



## lancermagi

Cool, then I will just stick with my 4GB. Its a lot anyway. =)


----------



## auriya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lancermagi*


Cool, then I will just stick with my 4GB. Its a lot anyway. =)


never used over 80% of my 4gb and i play alot of heavy rendering games.


----------



## xcooling

once you have had a system with 8GB of ram, youll never go back..

Start playing with vm;s, do some proper multitasking, youll eat 8GB in no time.

lol.. even my mothers pc has 8GB of ram.

u can run 4x 2GB @1600Mhz, make sure you get good AMD memory.. and not intel i5/i7 specific memory.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Same here, as in, I have my 940BE running on a DFI DK 790FXB M2RSH in a case as my 'main' rig, and am playing with the 1090T out-of-case in my bedroom.
Just ran Prime95 64bit for an hour @ 4Ghz with 1.344vcore and passed no problem.
Then ran 3DMark06 at same settings.

Will try another notch down on vcore tomorrow.


Tried for 1.325vcore but it failed on one core @ 4Ghz with Prime95.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sorry crunchie, I meant "..it is about 27Âº F (15Âº C) _cooler_ where he is..."


----------



## Lou_001

Thx for the reply, Blitz6804!!


----------



## darkwaffle

I saw the post mentioning the new bios, but what is ET6?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

For those who care:

Gigabyte's official word on fan header amperage is "Each fan header on mother board provide 12v up to 2.5 amp."

I guess this means I'm going for something nasty on the Noctua.


----------



## Blitz6804

darkwaffle: ET6 = EasyTune 6. Gigabyte's software to monitor the system's voltages, temperatures, et cetera from within Windows and overclock the board. You are better off overclocking via the BIOS and better monitoring software is available elsewhere. In my experience, EasyTune dramatically slows down a system.

UnexplodedCow: 2.5 A!? Holy crow! Supposedly then this board can run the Delta 190 CFMs! Madness...


----------



## darkwaffle

Jesus, thats a helluva lot of amps through the fan headers. I thought most boards were right around 1A









And thanks blitz, shame that means it doesn't do most of us any good at all. Do really like seeing them paying so much attention to the board, we're getting a little more than one bios update per month.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Is there any way to do Crossfire on the UD5 that leaves a space between the cards and still not have to resort to x8/x8? I have 2x 5870s right now and I would prefer to have some space in between them, but it seems like the only way to get x16/x16 crossfire is to have them in the 1st and 3rd PCIE slots, w/ zero space in between.

And did anyone figure out how to control fan speed from the pwn_fan connector on the right side of the ram slots either via bios or software? Trying to slow down my Corsair ram fan.


----------



## Blitz6804

ebolamonkey3: If I read the manual correctly, the only way to have 16x/16x is in PCIX16_1 and PCIX16_2. If you install it down in PCIX8 (the last PCIe slot) it will run both the PCIX8 and PCIX16_1 at 8x. That said, for the HD 5870, PCIe 2.0 8x should be sufficient so as not to bottleneck the card.

Try putting the cards in PCIX16_1 and PCIX16_2 (the first two full-size slots) and run 7 runs of 3DMark06. Ignore the lowest and highest run, average the middle five.

Then try putting the cards in PCIX16_1 and PCIX8 (the first and last full-size slot) and repeat.

I am willing to bet the averages are within 1% of each other. If you had HD 5970s, it would be another matter entirely.


----------



## Stilly

On a new note. Has anyone pulled the NB/SB heatsinks off yet and tried putting heatsink compound on there to lower temps? If so how hard was it to get them off and reattached? Any tips would be appreciated.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilly* 
On a new note. Has anyone pulled the NB/SB heatsinks off yet and tried putting heatsink compound on there to lower temps? If so how hard was it to get them off and reattached? Any tips would be appreciated.


Very easy. Pushpins hold the VRM and SB heatsinks on the UD5, and two screws hold the NB heatsink on. I'd imagine the UD7 is the same. Before even installing the board I put Ceramique on the NB and SB. Maybe that's why temps for me seemed lower....and hopefully Gigabyte doesn't hate me for doing so with the RMA.


----------



## Metonymy

They probably will.

But this makes me want to pull my board and re-paste my NB/SB with my Shin Etsu x23...


----------



## ryman546

ud7 new bios. Big problem...wont do anything. How do i save the board????


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
ebolamonkey3: If I read the manual correctly, the only way to have 16x/16x is in PCIX16_1 and PCIX16_2. If you install it down in PCIX8 (the last PCIe slot) it will run both the PCIX8 and PCIX16_1 at 8x. That said, for the HD 5870, PCIe 2.0 8x should be sufficient so as not to bottleneck the card.

Try putting the cards in PCIX16_1 and PCIX16_2 (the first two full-size slots) and run 7 runs of 3DMark06. Ignore the lowest and highest run, average the middle five.

Then try putting the cards in PCIX16_1 and PCIX8 (the first and last full-size slot) and repeat.

I am willing to bet the averages are within 1% of each other. If you had HD 5970s, it would be another matter entirely.

Thanks, maybe I'll try that. 14 runs of 3Dmark06, here I come!

Saw a review of the 5870 at x16/x8 vs x16/x16, and results were 98-99% performance, so hopefully x8/x8 doesn't bring that any lower.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
ud7 new bios. Big problem...wont do anything. How do i save the board????

I have had to RMA two UD7's after flashing to F3D,killed both board's,after flashing could only get to C1 on the post led's on both boards.Sorry but theres only one option,RMA.


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
I have had to RMA two UD7's after flashing to F3D,killed both board's,after flashing could only get to C1 on the post led's on both boards.Sorry but theres only one option,RMA.









what the hell. So whats this backup bios? I thought there was a backup bios and you press a button and it overwrites the other....What do you say when you RMA "i updated the bios and it bricks it?"


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
what the hell. So whats this backup bios? I thought there was a backup bios and you press a button and it overwrites the other....What do you say when you RMA "i updated the bios and it bricks it?"

That's about the jist of it,it's a very bad bios,no two ways about it.I just contacted the vendor,and stated flashing the bios bricked both boards.Second time the snotty nosed kid in tech support said "dont flash the bios on your next replacement".Think he thought he was talking to a noob,lol!!!

PS back up bios,yeh,press F7,but that dont work either.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Anyone running megahalems on the ud5 in push pull? will i have to move my ram over to slots 3 and 4?

Thanks


----------



## darkwaffle

With the NH-D14 at least I was forced to use slots 3 and 4, though the ridgeback modules I have are slightly taller than typical kits.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darkwaffle* 
With the NH-D14 at least I was forced to use slots 3 and 4, though the ridgeback modules I have are slightly taller than typical kits.

cool, thanks...i will probably have to do the same then, i think the g. skill pi's are taller than the ridgebacks...

how are you liking the ridgebacks? i was torn between the pi's and the ridgebacks when i was ordering the parts for this rig


----------



## Blitz6804

saiyanzzrage: I have a Mega Shadow, it is just a zinc-plated Megahalems. With Ultra Kaze 3000 (120x38mm) fans, the first three slots are covered. With 120x25mm fans, the first two are covered. Normal-height DIMMs will fit under no problem, but you will need to remove the fan to install them. G.Skill Pis will need to be in the white slots, and you will need to use only a 25mm fan on the push side. When I had the G.Skill Pis on my DFI, it was the same thing. The white slots clock better anyway.


----------



## Stilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
Very easy. Pushpins hold the VRM and SB heatsinks on the UD5, and two screws hold the NB heatsink on. I'd imagine the UD7 is the same. Before even installing the board I put Ceramique on the NB and SB. Maybe that's why temps for me seemed lower....and hopefully Gigabyte doesn't hate me for doing so with the RMA.

Thanks. I think I'm going to pull my board out and try this to cool things down.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
saiyanzzrage: I have a Mega Shadow, it is just a zinc-plated Megahalems. With Ultra Kaze 3000 (120x38mm) fans, the first three slots are covered. With 120x25mm fans, the first two are covered. Normal-height DIMMs will fit under no problem, but you will need to remove the fan to install them. G.Skill Pis will need to be in the white slots, and you will need to use only a 25mm fan on the push side. When I had the G.Skill Pis on my DFI, it was the same thing. The white slots clock better anyway.

great, thanks for the info!


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
That's about the jist of it,it's a very bad bios,no two ways about it.I just contacted the vendor,and stated flashing the bios bricked both boards.Second time the snotty nosed kid in tech support said "dont flash the bios on your next replacement".Think he thought he was talking to a noob,lol!!!

PS back up bios,yeh,press F7,but that dont work either.

I want to give it a shot. You just press f7 as soon as you turn it on? I cant find this anywhere in the manual.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


I want to give it a shot. You just press f7 as soon as you turn it on? I cant find this anywhere in the manual.


It's not mentioned in the manual,it's a trade secret for some unknown reason,what readout are you getting on the post led's,mine would'nt go past C1,then just cycled all the time.???


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


It's not mentioned in the manual,it's a trade secret for some unknown reason,what readout are you getting on the post led's,mine would'nt go past C1,then just cycled all the time.???


Same thing. So dual bios doesnt work then...i try tonight even so but this is FANTASTIC.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


They probably will.

But this makes me want to pull my board and re-paste my NB/SB with my Shin Etsu x23...



What they don't know shouldn't hurt me (or you). The only time I've known a company to remove the NB heatsink as SOP is MSI with their GD70 series. My temps did seem to be in the low to mid 40's on the chipset, even with slightly higher voltage. Granted, I don't have stock numbers to compare with, but it would probably be around what everyone else is getting.


----------



## Tchernobyl

motherboard has arrived







i'll be tinkering with it tomorrow.

Question though, are the cables that come with the motherboard sata 3.0 compatible? one of my hard drives is compatible with it (at least, as i understand it. 3.0 = that 6.0Gb/s designation, yes?) and I'm wondering if the cables work with it.. or if it's mainly a motherboard/device issue and not so much cables?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


motherboard has arrived







i'll be tinkering with it tomorrow.

Question though, are the cables that come with the motherboard sata 3.0 compatible? one of my hard drives is compatible with it (at least, as i understand it. 3.0 = that 6.0Gb/s designation, yes?) and I'm wondering if the cables work with it.. or if it's mainly a motherboard/device issue and not so much cables?


Cables are the same for SATA 2 and SATA 3. Any products labeled otherwise are simply marketing gimmicks.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


motherboard has arrived







i'll be tinkering with it tomorrow.

Question though, are the cables that come with the motherboard sata 3.0 compatible? one of my hard drives is compatible with it (at least, as i understand it. 3.0 = that 6.0Gb/s designation, yes?) and I'm wondering if the cables work with it.. or if it's mainly a motherboard/device issue and not so much cables?


More importantly, are your drives Sata 3.0 capable?


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


It's not mentioned in the manual,it's a trade secret for some unknown reason,what readout are you getting on the post led's,mine would'nt go past C1,then just cycled all the time.???


Exact same thing happened to me, looped ending at C1 on post display.

I managed to unbrick it though, left cpu & ram in, removed my gpus/unplugged anything in sata, while the pc was running i cleared cmos about 10times, noticed the post display sat on something without looping (couldnt see screen - no gpu), left it for 2mins and it rebooted itself (clearly it flashed back to factory bios), put everything back in and everything is fine.

Any bios after F2 are completely f**ked for UD7, I bet there isnt many happy people, they will have half-dead boards trying to figure out the C1 loop issue.

Both F3d beta + F3c beta kill it.


----------



## Blitz6804

I thought there was a (slight) difference in EFI shielding decimate.

Completely aside Tchernobyl, Gigabyte states they are SATA-III (6.0 GBps) regardless of if there is any difference.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


More importantly, are your drives Sata 3.0 capable?


that was part of my question. if that "6.0Gb/s" label on some drives means sata 3.0, then yes, it's compatible.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


that was part of my question. if that "6.0Gb/s" label on some drives means sata 3.0, then yes, it's compatible.


http://www.overclock.net/hard-drives...ml#post7812792


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I thought there was a (slight) difference in EFI shielding decimate.


Well, I meant that a SATA 2 cable will work with a SATA 3 drive. If you have some SATA cables laying around, there's no need to go out and buy a SATA 3 cable. That said, though, you're right in that there are minor differences, which are more gimmicks (to me) than anything else. Apparently, SATA 3 cables have "improved" EFI suppression which enables "faster" transfer speeds, but I'm not sure how, if at all, truthful that is. To me, it's certainly not worth spending the extra 5 or 10 dollars to find out...


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


http://www.overclock.net/hard-drives...ml#post7812792


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-533-_-Product

I meant from a non cable standpoint but the hardware directly. 6.0gb/s drive = sata 3.0 speeds?


----------



## Blitz6804

SATA-III drive means it is (theoretically) capable of 6.0 GBps. In practice, no drive currently out (except maybe an SSD) can saturate the current SATA-II's bandwidth. SATA-III might be important down the road, but in the short run, you are better off saving money and going SATA-II. I actually looked into that EXACT drive, but in the end, decided to save $20/drive for the Samsung Spinpoint F3s. (The WDs get 240 MBps burst, 114 MBps sustained, far from their theoretical 750 MBps...)

EDIT: For comparison, the Spinpoints burst 259 MBps, 125 MBps sustained for their theoretical 375 MBps.


----------



## Tchernobyl

I see, thanks! In my case i think it was brand loyalty talking







i've had WD's for a long time and they were always good... and the 6.0 was cheaper than the 3.0, as far as i could remember.


----------



## Blitz6804

If it helps any, here are the HD Tune / HD Tach results of my Spinpoints in RAID 10. (The line indicates where I am partitioned; to the right of the line is unused.)


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated!


----------



## EV!L

Hi !

has anyone tried these ram ?
http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=239

I'm quite concerned by these ram modules because they are 4GB.. few manufacturers of RAM modules have this size.. annd i need it because i'm dooing some heavy VM work ..

I'm looking for a module 4BG size compatible with Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5, and this seems good enough :

CAS Latency 9-9-9-24-2N
Speed DDR3-1600 (PC3 12800)
Test Voltage 1.5 Volts

I've read the compatibily list on gigabyte site and the manual, and i haven't see them.. plus the manual says 1,5 V for DDR3 and 1333MHz as standard.. for more V or MHz use DDR3_3 or DDR3_4 slot.. all I want is to use all the slot ram so i'm looking for a module compatible..

So.. any advice?

Thx .


----------



## Blitz6804

The only officially supported 4 GB DDR3-1600 on the QVL is the Kingston KHX1600C9D3K3/12GX. That said, most AM3 processors have issues running DDR3-1600 with 8 GB or more. For 4 GB DDR3-1333, the Hynix HMT351U6AFR8C-H9 and the Samsung M378B5273CHO-CH9 qualify.

As to the voltage, 1.500 V is spec for DDR3. The Gigabyte defaulted to 1.500 V for my RAM even though it is rated for 1.350 V; I would not worry about that. A G.Skill technician says that the pairing will work fine, if that helps any. A customer on that thread says he got them to work DDR3-1600 CL9 with minimal tweaking.


----------



## Savvage

I can join this club now, according to newegg ups will be knocking on my door tomorrow and delivering my 890 UD5









My question may have been answered but as my wife says I couldnt find my hand in front of my face. so I do apoligize if I repeat a question.

according to the spec sheet the UD5 has 2 x SATA II and 6x SATA III. I read above the cable are interchangeable. But is SATA III backwards compatible ?
I realize a 6.0 gb drive wont work in a 3.0 slot(at least not at 6.0), but will a 3.0 drive still work in a SATA 6.0 slot?
If i did understand the spec sheet right only having 2 x SATA slots is going to leave me short I have 2x SATA II CD/DVD roms and 2 x SATA II hard drives.
is this a problem?


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
Exact same thing happened to me, looped ending at C1 on post display.

I managed to unbrick it though, left cpu & ram in, removed my gpus/unplugged anything in sata, while the pc was running i cleared cmos about 10times, noticed the post display sat on something without looping (couldnt see screen - no gpu), left it for 2mins and it rebooted itself (clearly it flashed back to factory bios), put everything back in and everything is fine.

Any bios after F2 are completely f**ked for UD7, I bet there isnt many happy people, they will have half-dead boards trying to figure out the C1 loop issue.

Both F3d beta + F3c beta kill it.

omg going to try this when i get home. So you hit the clear cmos button while its running?


----------



## Blitz6804

Savvage: I currently run a SATA-II RAID 10 on my SATA-III controller. I have also used a SATA-I drive on the SATA-III controller no problems.


----------



## G3RG

I just called gigabyte tech support to ask what the 3 temp indicators on the motherboard correspond to. First off I could barely understand the guy as there was a lot of fuzz and then his accent made it no better.

He told me to look in the bios. I told him there was only the cpu and system temp there. Then he told me to just point a fan at the NB....basically he didn't know.

So ya...not even gigabyte knows what those damn sensors correspond to...and I really need to find out as I'm thinking of water cooling and temp 2 and 3 in speedfan are hitting the high 60s =/


----------



## Metonymy

So I want to add a system speaker for the bleeps/bloops during post.

Is there a port on this MOBO (UD5) to do that? And where's a good, cheap speaker available from?


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Savvage*


I can join this club now, according to newegg ups will be knocking on my door tomorrow and delivering my 890 UD5









My question may have been answered but as my wife says I couldnt find my hand in front of my face. so I do apoligize if I repeat a question.

according to the spec sheet the UD5 has 2 x SATA II and 6x SATA III. I read above the cable are interchangeable. But is SATA III backwards compatible ?
I realize a 6.0 gb drive wont work in a 3.0 slot(at least not at 6.0), but will a 3.0 drive still work in a SATA 6.0 slot?
If i did understand the spec sheet right only having 2 x SATA slots is going to leave me short I have 2x SATA II CD/DVD roms and 2 x SATA II hard drives.
is this a problem?


Yes sata II will work on the sata III ports no problem,if they did'nt,you would be limited to 2 sata drives.


----------



## Tchernobyl

just to double check: 2 sticks of dual channel ddr3 ram, in slots 1 and 3 (out of 1 2 3 4)?
Or 1 and 2? I'm thinking the former, but the manual is showing slots 1/2 for "single sided/double sided" ram...


----------



## Blitz6804

Metonymy: Yes, there are ports for the speaker. The 4-pin header is directly above the 3-pin power LED.

Tchernobyl: Ports 3/4 if only using 2 DIMMs. (The white ones.)


----------



## Tchernobyl

Ah! Thanks muchly.


----------



## Tchernobyl

That.. totally failed to boot. i changed it to 1 and 3, and it's booting right up


----------



## Tchernobyl

I do have a question though (yes, again







)... I see one of the USB connectors on the motherboard is one of those on/off things (the red one, I believe)... a) is there anything I need to turn on in bios to activate it, or is it on from the get go?
b) as i understand it, it's to charge up devices that recharge from USB, such as ipods and whatnot? (in my case a Zune HD, but the question still applies). Having it connected to the right one (again, the red usb connector on mobo, unless i'm mistaken?) would do what, recharge faster than a normal usb?

Or am i just completely wrong here


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Metonymy: Yes, there are ports for the speaker. The 4-pin header is directly above the 3-pin power LED.


Yup... found them on the diagram in the mobo guide after i got off my lazy ass and googled it... LOL


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


I do have a question though (yes, again







)... I see one of the USB connectors on the motherboard is one of those on/off things (the red one, I believe)... a) is there anything I need to turn on in bios to activate it, or is it on from the get go?
b) as i understand it, it's to charge up devices that recharge from USB, such as ipods and whatnot? (in my case a Zune HD, but the question still applies). Having it connected to the right one (again, the red usb connector on mobo, unless i'm mistaken?) would do what, recharge faster than a normal usb?

Or am i just completely wrong here










1) There's an application on the mobo CD called On/Off charge that you need to install. It's also on the Gigabyte website. You can download it for the UD5 board here: Download link

2) Yes, it allows you to charge things while the computer is turned off.

3) Apparently it does charge up to 40% faster and allows you to do so without having the entire system up and running.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


That.. totally failed to boot. i changed it to 1 and 3, and it's booting right up 


New motherboard, new CPU, or both? 1/2 and 3/4 are the dual channel configurations, 1/3 and 2/4 are single channel. If 1/2 or 3/4 do not POST, it is possible the CPU's IMC is damaged.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


New motherboard, new CPU, or both? 1/2 and 3/4 are the dual channel configurations, 1/3 and 2/4 are single channel. If 1/2 or 3/4 do not POST, it is possible the CPU's IMC is damaged.


new motherboard, new ram, same cpu.


----------



## Blitz6804

Then the RAM could be bad, or alternatively, the motherboard traces. Have you tried 1/2 since 3/4 did not POST?


----------



## Tchernobyl

I have not! been installing drivers and whatnot, but I shall do that in a moment.
edit: 1/2 works.


----------



## Blitz6804

Then the RAM is fine, the motherboard is broken. Try 2/4; if that does not work, slot 4 is out. If 2/4 works, and 1/3 works, but 3/4 does not, just dual channel is broken.


----------



## Tchernobyl

is only 3/4 dual channel? Or does 1/2 work as well? my previous board also would not work with 3/4, which seems odd that both wouldnt work....


----------



## Blitz6804

1/2 and 3/4 are dual; 1/3 and 2/4 are single. If 3/4 consistently has not worked, I would consider the CPU at fault. I ruled it out at first because you never said you had a RAM problem before. Does ganged/unganged make any difference in POSTability?


----------



## Tchernobyl

Haven't tried ganged/unganged changes, but i just tried 3/4 again and it's working.

I might have been impatient before on the first boot, as it went about 15-20 seconds before the screens registered anything (as in, changed from idle to displaying).


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, the first POST after a CMOS clear (or a new board) is painfully slow. Improve POST times all-the-way around by disabling the POST picture.


----------



## Tchernobyl

yep, already did that. 3/4 is consistently booting. I wasn't sure about that first post being slow thing, now i know!

It seems everything is working fine, without a format nescessary. I've had to reinstall some drivers and reactivate windows but otherwise it's working just fine.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


It seems everything is working fine, without a format nescessary. I've had to reinstall some drivers and reactivate windows but otherwise it's working just fine.


Which is exactly what I did when I switched from the UD3H to the UD5 board.

I still don't get all of the people who say "OMG YOU HAVE TO REINSTALL THE OS WHEN YOU SWITCH MOBOs".


----------



## Blitz6804

When chipsets are substantially similar (770 to 790FX; 790FX to 890FX) no reformat is necessary. When they differ appreciably (nForce 3 to Crossfire Xpress 3200), a reformat will likely be necessary. Yes, Windows Vista or better will run (XP will not), but it will not run well with the driver mismatch.


----------



## Tchernobyl

running a few benchmarks... so far, 3dmark 06 and vantage have been giving lower scores, by 150ish points 

Would have thought if anything there'd be an increase... maybe this is due to not reformatting/reinstalling?


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried Everest Bandwidth tests? What were the speeds / timings of your DDR2? Of your new DDR3? I am willing to bet the DDR3 has lower bandwidth right now, explaining the reduced speeds.


----------



## Tchernobyl

I admit I never checked the bandwidth test on everest... however the old ram is as in my sig ( i haven't updated it for new hardware yet)... DDR2 1066, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820104098 specifically. I think it was somewhat higher timings than listed on there (6-7-7-18 or something of the sorts).

Right now, i'm at 7-8-7-24-2T on my ram settings and 1600mhz.

Another 3dmark vantage test is giving me a 300 point increase from the first test (pre hardware change)... vs the previous test (post change) was 150 points under.

I'm confused~


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, 3DMark06 varies by 200 points or so per run. This is why you need to do 5-7 runs (dropping the slowest and fastest; averaging the middle) to compare between hardware. In my experience, each change of 1 on the CAS Latency is approximately the same as 270 MHz. So DDRx-1333 CL6 should be about the same as DDRx-1600 CL7.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ebolamonkey3* 
Thanks, maybe I'll try that. 14 runs of 3Dmark06, here I come!

Saw a review of the 5870 at x16/x8 vs x16/x16, and results were 98-99% performance, so hopefully x8/x8 doesn't bring that any lower.

I found said review (compliments of DesertRat): HD 5870 PCIe Scaling.


----------



## Tchernobyl

on my 3rd or 4th vantage bench post hardware change... on the bright side, points keep increasing


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Tchernobyl, I was wondering what version of board you have...is it 2.0, or 2.1?


----------



## Tchernobyl

I just bought it 5 days ago from newegg, if that helps any... kinda don't want to re-open my tower right now, haha







i'll check later though. Where on the motherboard does it say it, if it does at all? or does the bios say so?


----------



## crunchie

Bottom left of the mobo.


----------



## Tchernobyl

upon inspection, it's a 2.0!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

So the 2.1's still aren't quite being shipped. Maybe it's a non-US model? If it makes you feel better, I had to RMA my board for random B.S....mostly slow HDD throughput (file copy ran at a wonderful 35 MB/s), and tons of memory related blue screens. Tried another 890 chipset board, tried reinstalling the SB driver, and after a few tries, the IRQL BSOD went away, and my system boots/runs just fine. HDD file copying is almost twice as fast now between two drives. What kind of errors are you getting, exactly? Just not booting, or problems when POSTing? BSOD? If you get a BSOD for PFN_list_corrupt, or memory_management, and your RAM is known good, it's likely going to be the board (was in my case).


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


omg going to try this when i get home. So you hit the clear cmos button while its running?


Yes,
First time i did it the PC completely shutdown, had to remove power for 10secs to turn it back on.

Second time i did it, nothing happened, so i kept pressing it, and funny thing, it didn't loop anymore and booted to the factory bios reflash thing (couldn't see it but i knew it done it) because once it rebooted itself, i shutdown, put GPU's back in and booted, was back on F1 factory and everything was fine.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


So the 2.1's still aren't quite being shipped. Maybe it's a non-US model? If it makes you feel better, I had to RMA my board for random B.S....mostly slow HDD throughput (file copy ran at a wonderful 35 MB/s), and tons of memory related blue screens. Tried another 890 chipset board, tried reinstalling the SB driver, and after a few tries, the IRQL BSOD went away, and my system boots/runs just fine. HDD file copying is almost twice as fast now between two drives. What kind of errors are you getting, exactly? Just not booting, or problems when POSTing? BSOD? If you get a BSOD for PFN_list_corrupt, or memory_management, and your RAM is known good, it's likely going to be the board (was in my case).


right now, I'm not getting any errors at all ! that failure to post was merely the first time i booted the computer after installing the new hardware, and that apparently takes a long time. Subsequent boots worked fine and are much faster.


----------



## Tchernobyl

tried 4ghz but it wouldn't stay stable.. BSOD'd on 3dmark vantage


----------



## Savvage

Is the any way to search the forum? I am sure this question has been asked by more than one or two people, What Bios is everyone using I just got my board today and its running the F3 stock but i notice they have a beta 4FD bios on the website do i wanna grab that or will final revision be out soon enough? if any one has a link to anything about i would really appreciate reading it


----------



## crunchie

From what I have read, don't do it. It has bricked a few boards around the place.
Stick with the F3 until the latest ones are more refined.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
From what I have read, don't do it. It has bricked a few boards around the place.
Stick with the F3 until the latest ones are more refined.

Bingo.

F3 is the latest "stable" BIOS. As noted, the F4 BIOS is still in beta and has proved to be less than reliable...


----------



## EV!L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
The only officially supported 4 GB DDR3-1600 on the QVL is the Kingston KHX1600C9D3K3/12GX. That said, most AM3 processors have issues running DDR3-1600 with 8 GB or more. For 4 GB DDR3-1333, the Hynix HMT351U6AFR8C-H9 and the Samsung M378B5273CHO-CH9 qualify.

As to the voltage, 1.500 V is spec for DDR3. The Gigabyte defaulted to 1.500 V for my RAM even though it is rated for 1.350 V; I would not worry about that. A G.Skill technician says that the pairing will work fine, if that helps any. A customer on that thread says he got them to work DDR3-1600 CL9 with minimal tweaking.

thanks for reply Blitz6804 and sorry for my delay.
then 4GB modules are only those Samsung, Hynix and Kingston. i see them and no one was as i wanted or available in the online store that i choose.

let's take a step back, you tell me that most AM3 processors have issues running DDR3-1600 with 8 GB or more, but this issue is even detected with 8GB of total memory with 4x 2GB module of DDR3 1600 ?
because I was thinking for the time being to keep only 8GB and see how it works, then if memory is not sufficient i will increase.
So i want to fill all the 4 slot with 2GB module of DDR3 1600 CL7-8 or DDR3 1333 CL7 , but it will work without issue ?









i was looking in the QVL and i see them:

*CMX8GX3M4A1333C9*
Capacity 8GB (4 x 2GB)
Speed DDR3 1333
Timing 9-9-9-24
Voltage 1.5V

*F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO* --> F3-12800CL7Q-8GBECO (Favorite)
CAS Latency 7-8-7-24-2N
Capacity 4GB (2GBx2)
Speed DDR3-1600 (PC3 12800)
Test Voltage 1.35 Volts

*F3-10666CL7D-4GBECO* --> F3-10666CL9Q-8GBECO
CAS Latency 7-7-7-21-2N
Capacity 4GB (2GBx2)
Speed DDR3-1333 (PC3 10666)
Test Voltage 1.35 Volts

*CMDGX3M4A1600C8*
8Gb PC12800
1,65Volt
1600MHz
Cas 8-8-8-24 2T

G.Skill is my favorite, i love this ECO brand









i see on the QVL F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO but I think it still works even with F3-12800CL7Q-8GBECO because is the same model but with 4 pieces so i think it will work.

for the F3-10666CL7D-4GBECO module i see on G.Skill site that there isn't a 4x2GB with this CAS Latency 7-7-7-21-2N only 2x2GB, so the solutions are only two : i buy 2 pieces of this CAS7 or I take these other F3-10666CL9Q-8GBECO (2Gx4) that are the same brand ECO but with CAS Latency 9-9-9-24-2N .

the corsair CMX8GX3M4A1333C9 memory is a kind of Fully compatible choice of reserve because it is on QVL with this code so they must have tested very well.

the same for CMDGX3M4A1600C8 but they have a heatsink that hit my CPU heatsink so is the last chance.

So what's your opinion ? it will work ?
there is someone on the forum that have 8GB with this mainboard for have some advice ?

Thanks for any replay.

PS: the G.Skill technician says a lot of things, but in truth i read a few of thread of person that have buy memory on G.Skill technician advice and have a lot of problem for do it work properly. Then this tips are not gospel.


----------



## Metonymy

I run the G.Skill ECO 1.35V RAM. Have 4 of the 2GB sticks in my setup. Computer loves it. Currently running it at 7-7-7-20-27-1T.


----------



## balael

I recently purchased the ud5 board, and a 555 BE. Here is the problem I am having and am wondering if anyone else has the same.

When I turn on the "unlock cpu" option, no extra cores are shown in the bios to enable, or disable. If I enable the unlock cpu option, then the system becomes unbootable.

This could totally be that the 955 I have is bad, and the cores are bad, but I'm pretty sure I should still be able to see an option to enable or disable the extra cores on the cpu.

I am running the F3 bios, and it was the same as with the F1 bios.

Balael


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *balael* 
When I turn on the "unlock cpu" option, no extra cores are shown in the bios to enable, or disable. If I enable the unlock cpu option, then the system becomes unbootable.

I'm confused. The 955BE is a 4 core processor. What are you hoping to gain by unlocking? There are no more cores to unlock. X4s do not unlock to X6s. They are completely different.


----------



## balael

It's a 555 x2, sorry, hit the 9 on accident. First post I'll edit.


----------



## klaxian

In that case, if this MB can't unlock it with the F3 BIOS then you're out of luck. Not all X2s can be unlocked. It's a gamble. The good news is that the 555 is already an excellent processor.


----------



## balael

Alright damn, but cool, thanks for the quick reply man.

Balael


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
Yes,
First time i did it the PC completely shutdown, had to remove power for 10secs to turn it back on.

Second time i did it, nothing happened, so i kept pressing it, and funny thing, it didn't loop anymore and booted to the factory bios reflash thing (couldn't see it but i knew it done it) because once it rebooted itself, i shutdown, put GPU's back in and booted, was back on F1 factory and everything was fine.

Mine is stuck on 25 when i do that. Cant figure it out but nothing is happening? U say it rebooted itself...how long did that take?


----------



## Shroomalistic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
I run the G.Skill ECO 1.35V RAM. Have 4 of the 2GB sticks in my setup. Computer loves it. Currently running it at 7-7-7-20-27-1T.

Any chance i could get a screen shot of your full ram timings? I cant get mine to do 7-7-7 for the life of me. What voltage too?


----------



## Rains

I has this motherboard







And my 1055t is happy at 4Ghz









One quick question: for HWmonitor, what tempin (IE: tempin0/tempin1/tempin2) is the CPU?


----------



## decimator

Tempin1.


----------



## Rains

thanks


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic* 
Any chance i could get a screen shot of your full ram timings? I cant get mine to do 7-7-7 for the life of me. What voltage too?

Here you go. Because the BIOS has RAM voltages in .1V settings, mine is set at 1.41V.










As for the RAM timings, I actually left it on auto and the MOBO set them itself:


----------



## Blueduck3285

Looking to be added to the club, new to the site. My UD5 just arrived, am building my new desktop. Everything in my "System" is either on order or in my room awaiting building.

Have case, ssd, mobo, and psu. Using my old GT 8600's until more companies pick up the X460 or they come out with a X480 ish card with the G104 arch.

Thanks


----------



## mayhemonger

Hi There Guys,

I have a 890FXA UD5 Board and have the config below:

AMD PHENOM 1090T + GIGABYTE 890FXA UD5
WDC Caviar Black 500Gb x 2
INTEL X-25 M SSD 80GB

I tried to connect the SSD and 2 HDD's to SB850 ports on the board, but could not get the SSD to work when I switched to RAID mode in BIOS.

Right now, I have connected the SSD to the Gigabyte Controller (white ports) and the RAID in the SB850.

I get good RAID Speed (170 mb/sec) and I am happy the SB850 delivers, but the SSD is only at 150 +/-









I have attached some screenshots.



















What am I dong wrong here? Why is it so slow? Could have gone for 2 more WD blacks and been very happy!









I want the SSD to be an OS Drive and the 2 HDD's as RAID 0. What would be the most ideal setup? Help Plss!!!


----------



## EV!L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
I run the G.Skill ECO 1.35V RAM. Have 4 of the 2GB sticks in my setup. Computer loves it. Currently running it at 7-7-7-20-27-1T.

Thx for the replay, it's really great to know that someone else's have it running very well at CAS 7. Now i'm quite relieved. Have you noticed some stability problem in test or benchamark with all slots full ?

Thx too for posting your ram settings, very useful information. Now i save it








.
Can i ask you if they are 1333 or 1600 MHz ?


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mayhemonger* 
Hi There Guys,

I have a 890FXA UD5 Board and have the config below:

AMD PHENOM 1090T + GIGABYTE 890FXA UD5
WDC Caviar Black 500Gb x 2
INTEL X-25 M SSD 80GB

I tried to connect the SSD and 2 HDD's to SB850 ports on the board, but could not get the SSD to work when I switched to RAID mode in BIOS.

Right now, I have connected the SSD to the Gigabyte Controller (white ports) and the RAID in the SB850.

I get good RAID Speed (170 mb/sec) and I am happy the SB850 delivers, but the SSD is only at 150 +/-









I have attached some screenshots.



















What am I dong wrong here? Why is it so slow? Could have gone for 2 more WD blacks and been very happy!









I want the SSD to be an OS Drive and the 2 HDD's as RAID 0. What would be the most ideal setup? Help Plss!!!


The only way you'll achieve the real speeds of your SSD is if you put the SSD on the SB850 ports(ahci) and the RAID on the GSATA ports (raid).

That is how I have done it, and my X25-M performs as good as anyone elses.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rains* 
One quick question: for HWmonitor, what tempin (IE: tempin0/tempin1/tempin2) is the CPU?

tempin0: System/Motherboard (possibly SB)
tempin1: CPU socket
tempin2: NB


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
tempin0: System/Motherboard (possibly SB)
tempin1: CPU socket
tempin2: NB

Wow I've been looking for that for a long time lol....I even called gigabyte tech support and they couldn't give me an answer


----------



## Velathawen

I'm wondering if anyone can provide some insight on a problem I'm currently experiencing:

I have been running raid-0 with two F3 1TB's on the Gigabyte/JMicron SATA controller with mediocre results. I have attempted to switch to the SB850 regulated SATA ports to see if I could get better speeds; regardless of what configuration I plug my F3's in, it is never detected by the bios. For whatever reason, the F3's get detected perfectly fine every boot on the Gigabyte/JMicro controller though.

Any thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EV!L* 
Thx for the replay, it's really great to know that someone else's have it running very well at CAS 7. Now i'm quite relieved. Have you noticed some stability problem in test or benchamark with all slots full ?

Thx too for posting your ram settings, very useful information. Now i save it








.
Can i ask you if they are 1333 or 1600 MHz ?

It's 1600 RAM. I have the divider set to 5.33 because of my overclock, but the ram is still clocked up to 1391.

I've run all benchmarks (Prime95, Memtest85+, LinX) with all 4 slots full and have not noticed any performance degradation.


----------



## Shroomalistic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
It's 1600 RAM. I have the divider set to 5.33 because of my overclock, but the ram is still clocked up to 1391.

I've run all benchmarks (Prime95, Memtest85+, LinX) with all 4 slots full and have not noticed any performance degradation.









so your not at 1600 7-7-7?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mayhemonger* 
Hi There Guys,

I have a 890FXA UD5 Board and have the config below:

AMD PHENOM 1090T + GIGABYTE 890FXA UD5
WDC Caviar Black 500Gb x 2
INTEL X-25 M SSD 80GB

I tried to connect the SSD and 2 HDD's to SB850 ports on the board, but could not get the SSD to work when I switched to RAID mode in BIOS.

Right now, I have connected the SSD to the Gigabyte Controller (white ports) and the RAID in the SB850.

I get good RAID Speed (170 mb/sec) and I am happy the SB850 delivers, but the SSD is only at 150 +/-









I have attached some screenshots.

http://h.imagehost.org/0323/ATTOSSD.jpg

http://j.imagehost.org/0541/HDTune_B...A2M080G2GC.png

What am I dong wrong here? Why is it so slow? Could have gone for 2 more WD blacks and been very happy!









I want the SSD to be an OS Drive and the 2 HDD's as RAID 0. What would be the most ideal setup? Help Plss!!!

The JMicron is limited to a max 160mb/s for some reason. its really screwed me too. I have 2 x 300gb v-raptors to raid 0 in my system and a ssd for os. the raptors average 195MB/s so they are too much for the jmicron and my ssd is 260 write and 280 read so its way too much for the jmicron raid controller.

So i have to run them all on the sb850 in raid mode. I think your problem why the ssd wont boot in raid is because you probly already installed the os in ahci mode. Boot up with the ssd drive on the gigaraid(jmicron) in ahci mode and raid the other drives on the sb850. Get into windows and get the raid drivers installed. once installed, shut down and move the ssd back to the sb850 controller and then disable the gigaraid in bios. that way the drivers will be there and you should be able to boot off the drive.


----------



## crossy82

Can anyone tell me the maximum HTT speed on the GA-890FXA-UD7?
Only i looking to buy the 1055t 95w which should prove to be a solid overclocker but will need a decent HTT speed.I have seen complaints where people are struggling to hit 240MHZ on this mobo.

Really want to buy this mobo but want 300+MHZ at least to make it viable.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic* 
so your not at 1600 7-7-7?

Correct. I am not.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crossy82* 
Can anyone tell me the maximum HTT speed on the GA-890FXA-UD7?
Only i looking to buy the 1055t 95w which should prove to be a solid overclocker but will need a decent HTT speed.I have seen complaints where people are struggling to hit 240MHZ on this mobo.

Really want to buy this mobo but want 300+MHZ at least to make it viable.

Mine will do 350+ htt no problems.


----------



## crossy82

Thanks Moorhen2.Anyone else have any input on this i would be gratefull as i looking to purchase on friday,if i can find the 1055t 95w.

And to think i was going to buy the Asus Crosshair IV,glad i did'nt,this mobo seems amazing,hope they fix the bios troubles soon tho,it seems its causing a few problems as it is.


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

New members added

Table continuity corrections made

Keep up the good work!

~fidof650


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crossy82* 
Thanks Moorhen2.Anyone else have any input on this i would be gratefull as i looking to purchase on friday,if i can find the 1055t 95w.

And to think i was going to buy the Asus Crosshair IV,glad i did'nt,this mobo seems amazing,hope they fix the bios troubles soon tho,it seems its causing a few problems as it is.

If you find the 1055t 95W, send me a PM. I can't find it anywhere, either in stores or online.


----------



## crossy82

I will do that.I contacted Scan.co.uk and they are unsure as to when they will have.Ariapc did have but they all sold with no eta on next lot.Should'nt be too long til they hit uk shelves though.

Also in theory wont AMD stop selling the 125w version and only ship the 95w version when 125w stocks are depleted?


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crossy82* 
Thanks Moorhen2.Anyone else have any input on this i would be gratefull as i looking to purchase on friday,if i can find the 1055t 95w.

And to think i was going to buy the Asus Crosshair IV,glad i did'nt,this mobo seems amazing,hope they fix the bios troubles soon tho,it seems its causing a few problems as it is.

I have the Crosshair IV formula,MSI 890fx gd70,and Giga UD7,the giga is probably slightly better than the other two,dont worry about the bios issues,it's only the F3 betas that are a real problem,board killers.F2a is a good bios,i use it.


----------



## EV!L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
It's 1600 RAM. I have the divider set to 5.33 because of my overclock, but the ram is still clocked up to 1391.

I've run all benchmarks (Prime95, Memtest85+, LinX) with all 4 slots full and have not noticed any performance degradation.









thanks !

now i'm sure of what to buy. THX.


----------



## crossy82

Hi all,
In some online posts i found some people had issues getting HTT above 240MHZ.Dont know if any of you have encountered this firsthand,but after some serious digging around it seems the issue can be caused by;

-Hardware Thermal Control-located in PC Health Status in bios.

Disabling this will allow HTT to increase without defaulting back to original speed.

Hope this is helpful if anyone is having this problem.


----------



## decimator

Started playing around with my G.Skill Flares on this board, and so far it's been great. Currently running memtest with speeds of DDR3-1600 and timings of 6-8-6-24-1T at 1.65 vdimm. One full pass of memtest completed so far







.

EDIT: Make that 2 passes







.


----------



## stasio

GA-890FXA-UD5(v2.x) bios F4 is coming........


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stasio*


GA-890FXA-UD5(v2.x) bios F4 is coming........


Proof?


----------



## ryman546

Couldnt save my board after the bios update. tried everything. The ud7 that is. I have since upgraded.


----------



## stasio

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Proof?


20 minutes time:















http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList...d5_v2.x_f4.exe
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/...3417&dl=1#bios


----------



## BeepBeep

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stasio* 
20 minutes time:















http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList...d5_v2.x_f4.exe
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/products/...3417&dl=1#bios

`Stasio` From TweakTown?

Since you seem to be the GA Bios Guru over there, I have a question for you









Why do any bios above F2 on the 890FXA-UD7 either brick your board or the first boot after you flash gives a checksum error and resets back to F1 ?


----------



## crossy82

BEEP BEEP.Could you tell me what the highest HTT speed your board does?
just i'm trying to build a picture of any variation at all on different UD7 boards.

Info be very helpfull.


----------



## Metonymy

Here's the UD5 BIOS on the English website:

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...3417&dl=1#bios


----------



## Stilly

Anybody try the new F4 BIOS for the UD5 yet? If so how's it working for you?


----------



## sebaz

I have the GA-890FXA-UD5 rev 2.0. It came with BIOS F1, which seems great for overclocking, although in my case I didn't take my CPU to 4 Ghz. But then when they released F2 I updated and it sucked. I followed the advice of the more knowledgeable OCers to do it right, but everything that worked fine in F1 would freeze the system in F2.

What is the general consensus regarding F3 and overclocking, especially for the AMD Phenom II 1090T? And now F4 seems to be available, but judging by the latest posts in this thread it seems to have been released today. So it would be great if somebody that is OCing with the F4 and the 1090T could post results, settings, speed and stability.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sebaz* 
I have the GA-890FXA-UD5 rev 2.0. It came with BIOS F1, which seems great for overclocking, although in my case I didn't take my CPU to 4 Ghz. But then when they released F2 I updated and it sucked. I followed the advice of the more knowledgeable OCers to do it right, but everything that worked fine in F1 would freeze the system in F2.

What is the general consensus regarding F3 and overclocking, especially for the AMD Phenom II 1090T? And now F4 seems to be available, but judging by the latest posts in this thread it seems to have been released today. So it would be great if somebody that is OCing with the F4 and the 1090T could post results, settings, speed and stability.

F3 is amazing and has been a dream for OC'ing.

Haven't touched F4 yet. Will be giving it a go tonight.


----------



## GrassIsGreen

Does the GA-890FXA-UD5 need washers to mount?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GrassIsGreen* 
Does the GA-890FXA-UD5 need washers to mount?

Say what? Can you explain what you mean by washers?

This mobo mounts like any others... 9 small posts screw into the case, mobo goes in, and then screws into the posts.


----------



## GrassIsGreen

I've got my brass standoffs in, just need to know if I screw directly in or use washers.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GrassIsGreen* 
I've got my brass standoffs in, just need to know if I screw directly in or use washers.

Ahh! I screwed directly in.


----------



## GrassIsGreen

Alright thanks.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BeepBeep* 
`Stasio` From TweakTown?

Since you seem to be the GA Bios Guru over there, I have a question for you









Why do any bios above F2 on the 890FXA-UD7 either brick your board or the first boot after you flash gives a checksum error and resets back to F1 ?

F2a bios is good,dont see why they cant get the F3's working on the UD7,seems like the UD5 is getting all the attension,even though the UD7 is the enthusiasts board,but it must be because they sell more of the UD5's.


----------



## Cobain325

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
F2a bios is good,dont see why they cant get the F3's working on the UD7,seems like the UD5 is getting all the attension,even though the UD7 is the enthusiasts board,but it must be because they sell more of the UD5's.









Yea, It seems strange that they would shun their flagship AMD motherboard so much. Hopefully they're just working on something big, Big enough to make all the poeople with UD5's cry.


----------



## saint19

I will test the F4 BIOS version to night and go here for a feedback


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cobain325* 
Yea, It seems strange that they would shun their flagship AMD motherboard so much. Hopefully they're just working on something big, Big enough to make all the poeople with UD5's cry.

That would be nice mate,but i cant see it happening,i have bricked two boards with the crapy F3 betas,and have heard about a few others doing the same,when you purchase the most expensive AM3 board on the market,you expect better bios support,but we will see.


----------



## G3RG

It's probably because gigabytes sold a whole 10 UD7's (sarcastic estimate =D) while they've been selling UD5's by the boat load.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
It's probably because gigabytes sold a whole 10 UD7's (sarcastic estimate =D) while they've been selling UD5's by the boat load.

LOL!!,well i have had 3 of those 10 UD7's.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilly* 
Anybody try the new F4 BIOS for the UD5 yet? If so how's it working for you?

I may just stick with F3 until Bulldozer.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


I may just stick with F3 until Bulldozer.


I really want to try the latest/greatest, but I've got this stuck in my head:

"If it isn't broke, don't fix it."


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


I really want to try the latest/greatest, but I've got this stuck in my head:

"If it isn't broke, don't fix it."










LOL, I'm waiting for someone else to go first!

go on... I dare you!


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


"If it isn't broke, don't fix it."










This. Unless this new BIOS is able to let me overclock higher with lower voltages or make me a sandwich, I don't see the need in updating.

The guys over at XS are probably a little less conservative than we lot are, though. They've probably got some F4 results already.


----------



## stasio

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BeepBeep*


`Stasio` From TweakTown?

Since you seem to be the GA Bios Guru over there, I have a question for you









Why do any bios above F2 on the 890FXA-UD7 either brick your board or the first boot after you flash gives a checksum error and resets back to F1 ?


"BeepBeep" from XS?
If BIOS F2 on the 890FXA-UD7 somebody complain to GBT?

How about BIOS F3d ,any complain?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stasio*


How about BIOS F3d ,any complain?


LOL, just ask ryman about that BIOS...It bricked his board.


----------



## stasio

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
LOL, just ask ryman about that BIOS...It bricked his board.










I am not much involved in AMD boards,will read more.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
It's probably because gigabytes sold a whole 10 UD7's (sarcastic estimate =D) while they've been selling UD5's by the boat load.

off topic, but your avatar = YES


----------



## Stilly

I just updated to F4 and so far it's ok. I can't tell any difference from F3 but it didn't brick my UD5. Still testing and will let you all know in the next few days of test's.


----------



## decimator

For anybody who hasn't read the release notes for the UD5's F4 BIOS, here it is (in horrid-ass English) taken straight from Gigabyte's site:

Quote:

1.Update CPU AGESA 3.7.1.0
2.Support new AMD SB850 version
3.Support new LAN Boot ROM version
4.Fix audio noise issue while running ET6 in Win7
No performance improvements. If this BIOS proves to OC just as well as the F3 BIOS, I might just update for the hell of it...


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
No performance improvements. If this BIOS proves to OC just as well as the F3 BIOS, I might just update for the hell of it...

I'm debating updating right now... I've got it downloaded but haven't hit that magic button yet.

What does everyone think? Should I do it?

-----------------------------------------------

*edit*

I did it...


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stilly* 
I just updated to F4 and so far it's ok. I can't tell any difference from F3 but it didn't brick my UD5. Still testing and will let you all know in the next few days of test's.









Info regarding lower vcore at the same frequency would be nice


----------



## stasio

*GA-890FXA-UD7(v.2.x) -BIOS F3*

1. Update CPU AGESA 3.7.1.0
2. Fix audio noise issue while running ET6 in Win7

Note: *Please set "Keep DMI data" to "Disabled" while using Q-flash for BIOS update*.


----------



## Blueduck3285

I know I am probably going to sound like a total idiot, but hey, its worth the info. I was wondering... I have heard of people Sli'ing on non sli motherboards, is that possible to do on the UD5?


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stasio* 
*GA-890FXA-UD7(v.2.x) -BIOS F3*

1. Update CPU AGESA 3.7.1.0
2. Fix audio noise issue while running ET6 in Win7

Note: *Please set â€œKeep DMI dataâ€ to â€œDisabledâ€ while using Q-flash for BIOS update*.

So,who's going first then,lol,the "keep DMI data"to disabled could have been the problem with the F3 beta's bricking boards,could have told us before.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285* 
I know I am probably going to sound like a total idiot, but hey, its worth the info. I was wondering... I have heard of people Sli'ing on non sli motherboards, is that possible to do on the UD5?

This involves using a "hack",never a good idea,but if your willing to void your waranty,give it a go.


----------



## gallo81

Hi guys, I just bought a 890FXA-UD5, 8gb Corsair Dominator GT 1866 RAM and a AMD Phenom II X6 1090T from the web, and hope to get a rev 2.1 mobo. So I open the box and saw it, was a 2.0.

I saw on gigabyte page that for rev 2.0, the RAM won't run @ 1866 if I put the 4 dimms.

My questions:

Is there anyway to fix this with BIOS or something?
If I put the RAM @ 1600, will it work with the 4 dimms?

Thank you everyone

----------------------
GALLO


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
This involves using a "hack",never a good idea,but if your willing to void your waranty,give it a go.









Yeah, about that, I like my warranty just the way it is.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gallo81* 
Hi guys, I just bought a 890FXA-UD5, 8gb Corsair Dominator GT 1866 RAM and a AMD Phenom II X6 1090T from the web, and hope to get a rev 2.1 mobo. So I open the box and saw it, was a 2.0.

I saw on gigabyte page that for rev 2.0, the RAM won't run @ 1866 if I put the 4 dimms.

My questions:

Is there anyway to fix this with BIOS or something?
If I put the RAM @ 1600, will it work with the 4 dimms?

Thank you everyone

----------------------
GALLO

Welcome,and yes the ram should run fine @1600 with 4 sticks,a little pointer,it's not just the board that dictates the max memory speed,it also depends on how good the IMC is as well,and if it can cope with higher ram frequencies.


----------



## gallo81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
Welcome,and yes the ram should run fine @1600 with 4 sticks,a little pointer,it's not just the board that dictates the max memory speed,it also depends on how good the IMC is as well,and if it can cope with higher ram frequencies.









And to reach the 1866 for the 4 dimms, the only way is to get a 2.1 rev?

Thanks for your fast response.

---------------------
GALLO


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gallo81* 
And to reach the 1866 for the 4 dimms, the only way is to get a 2.1 rev?

Thanks for your fast response.

---------------------
GALLO

Your limited by your cpu,the 955be c2's have a weak IMC,and were never designed to run ram over 1333mhz,even the 965be c3's struggle with 1600mgz.Really you need to go to Thuban for high ram frequencies,i run my ram at 1800mhz with no problems,and i know of people running 2000mhz with Thubans,they have a far superior IMC.

As for the REV 2.1 boards,i have no information on the release scedule,so it could be a long wait.


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285* 
Yeah, about that, I like my warranty just the way it is.

AFAIK, everything is done on the software level. You use modded drivers. I'm pretty sure Gigabyte won't be able to tell whether you used the SLi hack or not.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

F4 BIOS official now. Everybody go!


----------



## klaxian

Any word on the performance and stability of F4? Is it at least as good as F3? I don't want to go backward. From what I've read, it seems like there are few noticeable differences.


----------



## blur510

Hello, I am using the UD5 crossfired with 2 HIS 5770 turbo ice5. I am using the 2 top PCI-e 16x. But the 2 cards are so close together that I am worried about their cooling efficiency. Currently on idle GPU-z says that they are both running at 62c while my CPU is at 24c (CPU-z) If I move the other 5770 on the lower PCI-e slot, the gap between them would be bigger but I would be running my cards at 8x. What should I do? Or is my temps ok? thanks


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
No performance improvements. If this BIOS proves to OC just as well as the F3 BIOS, I might just update for the hell of it...

There was no stated "performance improvements" or "stability improvements" for the F2, yet it solved some serious problems people were having.

I'd wager F4 further improves OC stability!

/optimism


----------



## Lazorbeam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blur510* 
Hello, I am using the UD5 crossfired with 2 HIS 5770 turbo ice5. I am using the 2 top PCI-e 16x. But the 2 cards are so close together that I am worried about their cooling efficiency. Currently on idle GPU-z says that they are both running at 62c while my CPU is at 24c (CPU-z) If I move the other 5770 on the lower PCI-e slot, the gap between them would be bigger but I would be running my cards at 8x. What should I do? Or is my temps ok? thanks

I don't think 8x will make much of a difference. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

62c seems alright. Is this under load? 24c seems unrealistic for your CPU, even idle.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
Any word on the performance and stability of F4? Is it at least as good as F3? I don't want to go backward. From what I've read, it seems like there are few noticeable differences.

Some had posted, I believe, that the F4D wasn't so hot. I noticed the full F4 was out, as I have it as an RSS feed, so I checked it daily. Sadly, I can't use the BIOS as Gigabyte should have my board by now (although I've not received confirmation...now need to hunt down the tracking number).

Information about the new BIOS:
1. Update CPU AGESA 3.7.1.0
2. Support new AMD SB850 version
3. Support new LAN Boot ROM version
4. Fix audio noise issue while running ET6 in Win7

One thing I don't understand is why they list "new AMD SB850 version." Did AMD re-release the 850?


----------



## blur510

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam* 
I don't think 8x will make much of a difference. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

62c seems alright. Is this under load? 24c seems unrealistic for your CPU, even idle.

thanks, I wasn't sure if my temp was high, been reading post from other people saying that their idle GPU temps at around mid 40's. Why does GPU-z have 3 GPU temp readings on my crossfire?


----------



## moorhen2

At last,the new F3 bios seems good so far,will be tweeking it over the next few days to see what she can do.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lazorbeam* 
I don't think 8x will make much of a difference. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

62c seems alright. Is this under load? 24c seems unrealistic for your CPU, even idle.

Depending on his heatsink, or waterblock, 24C is pretty realistic. The temp sensor on my CPU is totally wrong...says I idle at 14C, in a 22C room. In the past I've used an infrared thermometer aimed at the bottom of the cpu heatsink, and it is usually around room temp, leading me to believe the Thubans really run cool at idle.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
Depending on his heatsink, or waterblock, 24C is pretty realistic. The temp sensor on my CPU is totally wrong...says I idle at 14C, in a 22C room. In the past I've used an infrared thermometer aimed at the bottom of the cpu heatsink, and it is usually around room temp, leading me to believe the Thubans really run cool at idle.

That would be wrong,it's a well known fact that Thuban's dont give correct temp readings,you need to add between 10-12c to your idle temps to be about right,or take the reading from within the bios,this gives the correct cpu temps.


----------



## gallo81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
Your limited by your cpu,the 955be c2's have a weak IMC,and were never designed to run ram over 1333mhz,even the 965be c3's struggle with 1600mgz.Really you need to go to Thuban for high ram frequencies,i run my ram at 1800mhz with no problems,and i know of people running 2000mhz with Thubans,they have a far superior IMC.

As for the REV 2.1 boards,i have no information on the release scedule,so it could be a long wait.

Ohh, I won't use that cpu with this mobo and memory, as I said, the 890FXA-UD5 will use Corsair Domintor GT 8GB (CMT8GX3M4A1866C9) and a AMD Phenom II X6 1090T, but on gigabyte page for the rev 2.0, it says " To reach DDR3 1866MHz or above, you must install two memory modules and install them in the DDR3_3 and DDR3_4 memory sockets." My doubt is that maybe won't work with all the 4 dimms installed @ 1866 with this rev, or am I wrong?

Thanks again for all your help.

-----------------
GALLO


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gallo81* 
Ohh, I won't use that cpu with this mobo and memory, as I said, the 890FXA-UD5 will use Corsair Domintor GT 8GB (CMT8GX3M4A1866C9) and a AMD Phenom II X6 1090T, but on gigabyte page for the rev 2.0, it says " To reach DDR3 1866MHz or above, you must install two memory modules and install them in the DDR3_3 and DDR3_4 memory sockets." My doubt is that maybe won't work with all the 4 dimms installed @ 1866 with this rev, or am I wrong?

Thanks again for all your help.

-----------------
GALLO

Thats 1866 overclocked,you would need to set them to a 1:4 divider,and up the HTT/FSB to get to 1866mhz,and more voltage as well,dont think your going to see 1866mhz with all slots occupied,sorry.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
That would be wrong,it's a well known fact that Thuban's dont give correct temp readings,you need to add between 10-12c to your idle temps to be about right,or take the reading from within the bios,this gives the correct cpu temps.










Interestingly, when my chip is under load, the temp jumps to where it should be, and my thermometer confirmed it (reading slightly cooler than what core temp read). 41C under load is the typical temp, with the bottom of the heatsink (and side of the heat-spreader) reading around 39C. It's kind of amusing knowing the temp is way wrong when idle, but at least it's something close to accurate at load. My board sensor, according to HWMonitor, was around 67C loaded. This was when the processor was at stock speeds and voltage. I also doubt it's accurate







.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
Interestingly, when my chip is under load, the temp jumps to where it should be, and my thermometer confirmed it (reading slightly cooler than what core temp read). 41C under load is the typical temp, with the bottom of the heatsink (and side of the heat-spreader) reading around 39C. It's kind of amusing knowing the temp is way wrong when idle, but at least it's something close to accurate at load. My board sensor, according to HWMonitor, was around 67C loaded. This was when the processor was at stock speeds and voltage. I also doubt it's accurate







.

If your cpu had reached 67c under load,the thermal cut-out would have kicked in and shut down your system to save killing the chip.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
If your cpu had reached 67c under load,the thermal cut-out would have kicked in and shut down your system to save killing the chip.

*Shrug* It's what the board sensor showed for CPU, not what the core temp read. The board was a bit wonky and is currently being RMA'd. I had another motherboard prior to this one that blipped at 67C before it shut down, however that was due to the PSU shutting off from the bad VRM shorting. The board never ran again.


----------



## xcooling

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
This involves using a "hack",never a good idea,but if your willing to void your waranty,give it a go.









LOL.. talk about being uninformed... rather keep quiet when u have no experience in the domain.

Its a SOFTWARE patch that runs at the boot time of windows.. which allows you to run SLI.

There is no way it can ever void your warranty.

You can find the patch and the how-to guide here:
http://xdevs.com/e107_plugins/conten...php?content.30

Forum topic on these forums:
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/6708...therboard.html


----------



## xcooling

busy testing F4... will keep you posted if it does anything bad ;-P


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xcooling* 
LOL.. talk about being uninformed... rather keep quiet when u have no experience in the domain.

Its a SOFTWARE patch that runs at the boot time of windows.. which allows you to run SLI.

There is no way it can ever void your warranty.

You can find the patch and the how-to guide here:
http://xdevs.com/e107_plugins/conten...php?content.30

Forum topic on these forums:
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/6708...therboard.html

And you pal,need to learn some manners,talking to people like that,someone you dont even know,i have 35 years in the pc game,what do you have,still wet behind the ears i expect.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


And you pal,need to learn some manners,talking to people like that,someone you dont even know,i have 35 years in the pc game,what do you have,still wet behind the ears i expect.


He may have been a bit coarse in his comment, but something that is also important: Is he right?


----------



## BeepBeep

F3 for UD7 (working now) seem pretty decent


----------



## decimator

I updated my UD5 to F4 and everything seems to be running well. I was able to get my RAM to run at 1600MHz 6-8-6-24-1T at 1.65 vdimm with F3, so with F4 I tried 1600MHz 6-6-6-18-1T and got an insta-fail. Trying 6-8-6-24-1T again.


----------



## Metonymy

Hey decimate: Can you not try a "middle" step? Say, 6-8-6-20?

My board "auto" sets my ECO RAM to 7-7-7-20-27-1T with my setting the voltage to 1.41V and speed at 1391Mhz.


----------



## Stilly

Ok after 2 days of running F4 on my UD5 I don't see any difference from F3

YMMV


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Hey decimate: Can you not try a "middle" step? Say, 6-8-6-20?

My board "auto" sets my ECO RAM to 7-7-7-20-27-1T with my setting the voltage to 1.41V and speed at 1391Mhz.


Yeah, I will in a sec. I'm running 6-8-6-24-1T so I can rule out this new BIOS as being the culprit. 6-6-6-18 was a little too ambitious, now that I think about it, though







.


----------



## xcooling

F4, seems to have a few changes on the memory options in the bios.

@ 4.2ghz, i have managed lower the cpu voltage control from +0.200 to +0.150, so far its stable.. will know more in the morning once the torture tests complete.


----------



## alphabot

i'm on F4 now - my computer doesnt like to restart. every time i restart, i get the error screen saying there are problems due to overclocking. if i turn the computer back off, then on again, i dont get it and it's perfectly fine (prime95 for ages)

details of computer in sig, bus at 250, NB and HT at 2000, ram at 1666, NB at 1.35v, ram at 1.65v, cpu at x 14.5, everything else at auto (so far)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *alphabot*


i'm on F4 now - my computer doesnt like to restart. every time i restart, i get the error screen saying there are problems due to overclocking. if i turn the computer back off, then on again, i dont get it and it's perfectly fine (prime95 for ages)

details of computer in sig, bus at 250, NB and HT at 2000, ram at 1666, NB at 1.35v, ram at 1.65v, cpu at x 14.5, everything else at auto (so far)


Sounds like the issue I had, except mine was sometimes when turning the system on, too. Perhaps try without overclocking and see if the message still turns up.


----------



## alphabot

from memory it did happen the first time i restarted with everything on auto. at first i was ***, but upon full off then on, it was fine. not too concerned about the problem because the computer is perfectly fine if you hard off and start, but it's a pita (especially when you're testing to oc)


----------



## Metonymy

So this is interesting.

I've had my CPU at 1.525V for a while now. That's what it took to get it stable. Given my upgrade from the F3 to the F4 BIOS, I figured I'd drop it to 1.5V and see what happened.

An hour into Prime95 and it's still rocking along...

---------------------------------------------------------

*edit*

Over 2 1/2 hours into Prime at 1.50v instead of 1.525...


----------



## gallo81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


Thats 1866 overclocked,you would need to set them to a 1:4 divider,and up the HTT/FSB to get to 1866mhz,and more voltage as well,dont think your going to see 1866mhz with all slots occupied,sorry.










And do you think with the rev 2.1 can make the 1866 for the 4 dimms?

Thanks

--------------
GALLO


----------



## xcooling

Depends on the latency settings with 1866..

9-9-9-32 ?


----------



## crossy82

Hi all,
How is the new bios doing on the UD7?Are the problems fixed by turning keep dmi data to off as Stasio said?

Hows yours doing Moorhen2?I see you upgraded to F3.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crossy82*


Hi all,
How is the new bios doing on the UD7?Are the problems fixed by turning keep dmi data to off as Stasio said?

Hows yours doing Moorhen2?I see you upgraded to F3.


F3,so far so good,still testing it,but so far it's looking good,but it was mainly the Agesa code update from AMD,for better hexa support.


----------



## crossy82

Soz,but what is the agesa code?an do you get this from AMD's site?I'm new to pc building an overclocking.

Good to see things are going better now,bout time.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crossy82*


Soz,but what is the agesa code?an do you get this from AMD's site?I'm new to pc building an overclocking.

Good to see things are going better now,bout time.


AMD work with board manufacturers to get the most out of their chipsets,the Agesa coding helps give better cpu support,mostly to help older chipsets,ie 790/750 support the latest cpu's,ie Thubans,the latest Agesa code from AMD is 3.7.1.0,so people using older boards can get the most out of the cpu's.

Hope this makes sense.









If you need any help,just ask,there's lots of helpfull people on here.


----------



## lngu81

Updated to F4, Bricked my mobo! 
like most people I got the error after restart. I can't get my 4.1ghz 1090t to run as with F3, so I reset the bios back to Fail-Safe and log in Windows. I ran AMD overdrive autoclock to find out what's approx. max oc speed and the computer shut down. Unable to get back into Bios, clear bios didn't work, took the battery out, unplugged the cable did not work either. So it will be replace today with a new mobo since I had it for less than 2 weeks.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


Updated to F4, Bricked my mobo! 
like most people I got the error after restart. I can't get my 4.1ghz 1090t to run as with F3, so I reset the bios back to Fail-Safe and log in Windows. I ran AMD overdrive autoclock to find out what's approx. max oc speed and the computer shut down. Unable to get back into Bios, clear bios didn't work, took the battery out, unplugged the cable did not work either. So it will be replace today with a new mobo since I had it for less than 2 weeks.


Oh man that sucks.

Did you update through Windows or through the BIOS?


----------



## crossy82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


Updated to F4, Bricked my mobo! 
like most people I got the error after restart. I can't get my 4.1ghz 1090t to run as with F3, so I reset the bios back to Fail-Safe and log in Windows. I ran AMD overdrive autoclock to find out what's approx. max oc speed and the computer shut down. Unable to get back into Bios, clear bios didn't work, took the battery out, unplugged the cable did not work either. So it will be replace today with a new mobo since I had it for less than 2 weeks.


Sorry to hear that.Gigabyte really need to sort this now,starting to become a bit tedious now,its almost making me think of getting something else alltogether really.Where you using UD7?

In honest opinion from anyone who knows there stuff...should i buy the UD7 or get something a bit more reliable?

Really wanted this board,and gigabyte may well av killed my dream.


----------



## joh06937

hey cool, a whole thread devoted to the board i own







i certainly love being able to have my crossfired hd 5770s and my 8800gt for physx all on the same board.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joh06937*


hey cool, a whole thread devoted to the board i own







i certainly love being able to have my crossfired hd 5770s and my 8800gt for physx all on the same board.


Welcome aboard.

Now go fill in your system specs on your user control panel.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


Updated to F4, Bricked my mobo! 
like most people I got the error after restart. I can't get my 4.1ghz 1090t to run as with F3, so I reset the bios back to Fail-Safe and log in Windows. I ran AMD overdrive autoclock to find out what's approx. max oc speed and the computer shut down. Unable to get back into Bios, clear bios didn't work, took the battery out, unplugged the cable did not work either. So it will be replace today with a new mobo since I had it for less than 2 weeks.


Thats not the bios bricking the board,thats a hardware problem,you can try F7 at boot up,this forces the dual bios to kick in and boot from the backup.


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Oh man that sucks.

Did you update through Windows or through the BIOS?


I use @Bios update through file download from Gigabyte site, I'm pretty sure there is some bugs with F4, as I try the F4D (Beta) previously, I got error msg before booting


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


Thats not the bios bricking the board,thats a hardware problem,you can try F7 at boot up,this forces the dual bios to kick in and boot from the backup.


you meant F9? I tried that... it could be mobo hardware issue in the 1st place, my NB temp was in 50C+ with stock voltage while CPU is clocked at 4.1


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crossy82*


Sorry to hear that.Gigabyte really need to sort this now,starting to become a bit tedious now,its almost making me think of getting something else alltogether really.Where you using UD7?

In honest opinion from anyone who knows there stuff...should i buy the UD7 or get something a bit more reliable?

Really wanted this board,and gigabyte may well av killed my dream.










I use UD5, I think I had a bad mobo in the 1st place. gigabyte boards are decent quality for the price, you should just buy UD7 and hammered it out in the 1st 2 weeks to make sure that there are no issues. I had bad experiences with Asus premium board too. there is a bad egg once awhile, unfortunately that happened to me.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


I use @Bios update through file download from Gigabyte site, I'm pretty sure there is some bugs with F4, as I try the F4D (Beta) previously, I got error msg before booting


Most people recommend against doing it this way, but I updated through Windows as well. I guess I was lucky and didn't have this issue.

I didn't try any of the beta BIOS versions though. I'll only use the stable release clients.


----------



## joh06937

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
Welcome aboard.

Now go fill in your system specs on your user control panel.









thanks and done









does anybody else have trouble overclocking any of the phenom ii (955.965) processors with this board? i have horrible instability with mine (c3 stepping 955). i can't even hit 3.9 without crashing in prime95.


----------



## Shroomalistic

3.8-3.9 was the max for my 955c3 also but it wasnt just this board. It maxed out the same on my dfi 790fxb and my foxconn a79a-s. Probly just the limit of the cpu.


----------



## joh06937

i was able to get further on my older am2+ (am3 with bios) ddr2 gigabyte board. that really pisses me off though that i can't go higher on my new and better board


----------



## senth

Was Running F3 bios without any problems
with X3 720 BE 2.8
Unlocked to quad and oced to 3.4 x16 muliplier
Ram at 1333.

After updating to F4
Was able to unlock to quad but wont OC at quad
When i try to OC it will go back to tri core.
When i put back multipler to auto it goes back to quad
Even if I put the multplier to Stock speed still goes back to tri.

So went back to f3
I can do what i did before
Quad OCed. without problem.


----------



## lancermagi

I was so tempted to update to F4. Good thing I didn't when I read so many posts from this thread about F4 issues.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lngu81* 
you meant F9? I tried that... it could be mobo hardware issue in the 1st place, my NB temp was in 50C+ with stock voltage while CPU is clocked at 4.1

No i mean F7,it's that key on the UD7,and you should be using Q-Flash to update the bios,when you use @bios,your doing it through windows,never a good idea.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lancermagi* 
I was so tempted to update to F4. Good thing I didn't when I read so many posts from this thread about F4 issues.

You should only be flashing the bios if it fixes an issue you have with your board,doing so just because there is a new bios is not recomended.


----------



## Blitz6804

joh06937: Metonymy meant to use the add system link.

All: How do we / should we flash the backup BIOS? I would think since those of us with 1090Ts have shown the F3 BIOS to be rock solid, we would want the backup BIOS to be F3, so we can experiment with F4 on the primary.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


joh06937: Metonymy meant to use the add system link.

All: How do we / should we flash the backup BIOS? I would think since those of us with 1090Ts have shown the F3 BIOS to be rock solid, we would want the backup BIOS to be F3, so we can experiment with F4 on the primary.


You can always flash back to F3,just keep bios F3 on a memory stick,or on your HD.Just make sure when flashing backwards you untick the "keep cmos pool data"in Q-Flash screen.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *moorhen2* 
No i mean F7,it's that key on the UD7,and you should be using Q-Flash to update the bios,when you use @bios,your doing it through windows,never a good idea.









I flashed my UD5 from F1 to F3, and then from F3 to F4 using Gigabyte's windows-based update tool (@BIOS I think it is).

Worked perfectly for me both times.

And I have confirmation... The new F4 bios allowed me to drop my CPU voltage from 1.525 to 1.50. CPU-Z shows me as running at 1.488.

Going to try and lower it further. I must be in the minority by having luck with the F4 BIOS on the UD5.


----------



## crunchie

Apparently the back-up bios cannot be flashed.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Apparently the back-up bios cannot be flashed.

Nope. That's by design.

If you flashed the main bios and the backup bios... and they both fail...

... then what?


----------



## polynomialc

I have a strange problem with my intel ssd, its set to ahci in bios, windows loads everything seems fine, but when i run the intel ssd toolbox application, optimizer it says it cant run, in raid mode. but i dont even have a raid setup. I wonder if the file "motherboard_driver_amd_chipset_8-series_win7.exe" caused the problem after updating to it. anyone have any clue?


----------



## klaxian

If you have an SSD in AHCI/RAID mode, don't use the AHCI/RAID driver supplied by Gigabyte because it doesn't support TRIM. Since you have an Intel SSD, you should install their driver. If nothing else works, use the Windows 7 driver.


----------



## polynomialc

thanks that solved the problem with trim , ssd toolbox is working again


----------



## xcooling

F4 on ud5, 100% stable with 1055t @ 4.2Ghz

For those that have been having overclock/boot issues with F4. Check the auto voltages and memory settings as a few things have been changed.

For people with tri/quad cores, its seems like sticking with the F3 bios is a better option.


----------



## bungynik

It's interesting that nobody didn't notice this hardware difference between those two revisions!!!

*2.0*









*2.1*









This is the *Core Boost* chip that have disappear on new revision of this MB. Did Gigabyte try to cut expenses with removing this chip and then create marketing about better memory handling with new revision??? They didn't remove the chip on UD7, so I suppose that chip is functioning OK.


----------



## bob2701

Just wanted to stop in and say Hi. In the process of burning in my new GA-890FXA-UD5 and will spend much time going through all the posts to date.

Bob


----------



## Metonymy

You should also notice on board rev 2.1 that the RAM speed next to the slots says 2000+ instead of 1866+


----------



## bungynik

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
You should also notice on board rev 2.1 that the RAM speed next to the slots says 2000+ instead of 1866+









Yep! It looks like cutting expenses! They promote something and after some positive reviews, they decide that, now with good reputation , they can reduce costs without sacrifice the selling results. A little more marketing about "improvements" they made.... and voila, you have a "better" board revision with 2000+MHz Mem clock! I don't like this, but then... it's not Gigabyte invention. But they didn't forget to print "Core boost" on PCB of rev. 2.1, which by the way, lacks this chip.. or maybe the white paint used for printing can emulate Core Boost chip.... or this is the Star Wars technology implemented in paint.









So, I think that ones, that have rev. 2.0 boards, are lucky one, having fully featured board ready for rigorous testings. If you pay attention, the Solid state capacitors are also changed on 2.1.... and who knows what we can find if we start to looking under magnifying lens.















But I haven't noticed any changes on their flagship MBs.


----------



## Blitz6804

What exactly is the Core Boost Chip for anyway?


----------



## bungynik

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


What exactly is the Core Boost Chip for anyway?


This chip is for hardware unlocking CPU cores, so you are not dependent on BIOS setings!

Excerpt from Gigabyte :

"Core Boost Support
GIGABYTEâ€™s Core Boost technology provides an easy way for users unlocking the CPUâ€™s hidden cores via the EasyTune6 utility. Without any complicated setting needed in BIOS, users can experience a phenomenal performance upgrade right away."


----------



## Blitz6804

I thought the SB850 would do that just like the SB750's ACC. Unless this is to make the process even simpler?


----------



## decimator

Reached 3000MHz NB freq on this board. The voltages I used were 1.19v NB voltage and 1.35v CPU-NB-VID. Does that seem like too much voltage? I'll stress with lower voltage settings later.


----------



## Shroomalistic

that perfect voltage to me. I wish mine would hit 3ghz nb. im stuck at 2.85ghz nb


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Reached 3000MHz NB freq on this board. The voltages I used were 1.19v NB voltage and 1.35v CPU-NB-VID. Does that seem like too much voltage? I'll stress with lower voltage settings later.


The voltage seems fine. However, why do you need a NB that fast? What speed memory are you running? You won't notice any benefit from 3000MHz NB unless your DDR3 is at 1866MHz+.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


The voltage seems fine. However, why do you need a NB that fast? What speed memory are you running? You won't notice any benefit from 3000MHz NB unless your DDR3 is at 1866MHz+.


I plan on running my Flares at DDR3-2000 if they'll let me.


----------



## xcooling

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


The voltage seems fine. However, why do you need a NB that fast? What speed memory are you running? You won't notice any benefit from 3000MHz NB unless your DDR3 is at 1866MHz+.


I run 3000Mhz NB. Bench various NB fsb settings, and its easy to see why we run it.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic*


that perfect voltage to me. I wish mine would hit 3ghz nb. im stuck at 2.85ghz nb


You can blame that on your CPU, I believe. Thubans just have better IMC's than Denebs. Besides, 2850MHz NB is nothing to scoff at. Good job.


----------



## polynomialc

updated bios from F3 to F4 using windows bios update, no problems updating. system runs same as before

1090T 4ghz
cpu clock x20 4000
cpu nb x13 2600
ht link x10 2000
htlink width auto
cpu volt control normal
dram volts 1.410
nb volt - normal
nb/pcie/ppl volt ctrl - normal
cpu nb vid ctrl - 1.2750
cpu volt ctrl - 1.4

DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1t

any advice for better performance/alt settings would be great

turns out the settings were not stable, also ran a 6 core version of prime and my temps were going to around 61 which was a bit nerve racking. i ended up clocking down to 3.8ghz
x19
x12
200
nb 1.150
ht 1.2
nb/pcie/pll 1.8
cpu nb 1.2
cpu volt 1.375.

even running at 3.8 once prime is fired up on all 6 cores temps shoot up from 42degrees idle to 59c


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xcooling*


I run 3000Mhz NB. Bench various NB fsb settings, and its easy to see why we run it.


Hey, how much voltage did it take for you to reach 3000MHz NB freq? I'm specifically interested in CPU-NB-VID voltage. I found that my setup can run 3000MHz NB freq on stock NB voltage, so I'm not worried about that.


----------



## G3RG

I wish mine could run 3000mhz NB at stock volts lol...I'm at 1.3v at 2.9...I bet I could push it to 3 but my socket+NB temps are extremely high as it is, I crash due to heat when running cpu stress tests, but it is cool enough to game so I'm happy enough until I get watercooled.

Does anybody know how much of a difference 3ghz NB makes vs 2ghz?


----------



## jjceo

I love my new computer, motherboard and AMD 1090T. I am having great fun with it. One thing that I do notice though is that it seems to take higher CPU voltages to get high frequencies than people using ASUS motherboards. In addition I cannot seem to change the CPU clock speed to anything above 210 without getting system voltage errors or I cannot boot.

Has anyone using F4 been able to achieve the same or higher CPU frequencies with lower voltage? I finally got mine stable at 4.1GHz at 1.46 CPU Volts. My NB is running at 2.4 GHz at 1.2 V on the NB Vid. I am running my memory at 1.65 volts at 1600 Mhz but I have been able to undertime it at 8,8,8,20 and it works fine.

I am running the following system:
My Build:
Cooler Master HAF 932 Full Tower Black Case
ULTRA X4 750W POWER SUPPLY MODULAR
Corsair 8GB DDR3 PC12800 1600MHz (4x2GB) under timed
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit DVD
Sapphire Radeon HD 5850 1GB TOXIC Ed. DDR5 ( second unit on order to do Crossfire)
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition 4.1Ghz
Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 AMD 890FX Socket AM3 MB
Corsair Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler
Intel 160 GB SSD Primary drive
ASUS 24X DVDRW SATA OEM times 2 units
LOGISYS Computer CLK12BL2 12" DUAL COLD CATHODE KIT - OEM Blue
Link Depot Crystal Led Fan with extra hardware to use as a pull fan on the Corsair Hydo H50
Three Seagate 2 TB drives for storage with 2 more to be added
Hauppauge 2250 Dual Tuner TV card

Windows index:
CPU 7.7
Memory 7.7
Graphics 7.8
Gaming Graphics 7.8
Primary hard drive 7.5


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jjceo* 
Has anyone using F4 been able to achieve the same or higher CPU frequencies with lower voltage? I finally got mine stable at 4.1GHz at 1.46 CPU Volts. My NB is running at 2.4 GHz at 1.2 V on the NB Vid. I am running my memory at 1.65 volts at 1600 Mhz but I have been able to undertime it at 8,8,8,20 and it works fine.

Your voltages seem in line with what others have needed on F3/F4 BIOS to get 4.1GHz. As always, success in overclocking varies from build to build. I run 4.1GHz stable at 1.425V on F3 and that's the lowest I've seen.


----------



## decimator

Wow, turns out I'm not stable at 3000MHz NB freq with my settings...Failed LinX within 30 seconds. Bumping up the CPU-NB VID and trying again...


----------



## Blitz6804

decimate: I could not stabilize 3000 MHz (250x12) at any voltage for mine, but 2750 (250x11) works fine with 1.275 V (+0.125 V).


----------



## Cobain325

Anyone else with 1055T/UD7 notice their max OC take a nosedive when running on F3? I cant even boot at 4Ghz with F3.


----------



## decimator

All right, here's where I'm at right now.



I was able to boot into Windows with 3000MHz NB freq (needed 1.4v CPU-NB VID to do it...) and DDR3-2000 with 1.65 vdimm and 1.19 NB voltage. Failed LinX within the first couple of passes, and I'm afraid of increasing voltage on any of those settings, so I backed it off. Dropped NB freq to 2750MHz and memory to DDR3-1666.


----------



## IntelLover

What is TEMPIN 0? I get 50C playing COD4.


----------



## decimator

Nobody really knows for sure. Some say it's system temp and TMPIN2 is northbridge temp. Others say TMPIN0 is northbridge temp and TMPIN2 is PWM temp. 50*C doesn't sound that bad for either one, though. I know for a fact that the max safe temp for the northbridge is 75*C. This is in AMD's 890FX white papers. Max safe PWM temp is usually pretty high, too.


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Nobody really knows for sure. Some say it's system temp and TMPIN2 is northbridge temp. Others say TMPIN0 is northbridge temp and TMPIN2 is PWM temp. 50*C doesn't sound that bad for either one, though. I know for a fact that the max safe temp for the northbridge is 75*C. This is in AMD's 890FX white papers. Max safe PWM temp is usually pretty high, too.

Doesn't the Asus CH IV get in the 50s, thats why people started redoing the heatsink? I bought this board to try and avoid that issue.


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Nobody really knows for sure. Some say it's system temp and TMPIN2 is northbridge temp. Others say TMPIN0 is northbridge temp and TMPIN2 is PWM temp. 50*C doesn't sound that bad for either one, though. I know for a fact that the max safe temp for the northbridge is 75*C. This is in AMD's 890FX white papers. Max safe PWM temp is usually pretty high, too.

I really need to find this out for certain as my temp 1 and 2 are reaching over 60 and the pc usually crashes around 65+ish...apparently even gigabyte doesn't know what they do....

I called up their tech support and they couldn't answer the question....the guy just told me to look in the bios and make sure I have enough fans =/

Edit: just submitted a support ticket with Gigabyte, with luck I'll get a good response...not hopeful though.


----------



## klaxian

Does anyone know how to disable USB power when the system is turned off? I have an LED backlit keyboard that stays on because it must still be receiving power. I can't turn it off without unplugging it once the computer has powered down. I checked all the BIOS settings I could think of without success. "Power on from keyboard" is disabled of course. Thanks.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
Nobody really knows for sure. Some say it's system temp and TMPIN2 is northbridge temp. Others say TMPIN0 is northbridge temp and TMPIN2 is PWM temp. 50*C doesn't sound that bad for either one, though. I know for a fact that the max safe temp for the northbridge is 75*C. This is in AMD's 890FX white papers. Max safe PWM temp is usually pretty high, too.

I posted this once already in the thread, but here goes again:
TMPIN0 = System/Motherboard (might be SB)
TMPIN1 = CPU
TMPIN2 = Northbridge

This has been confirmed with BIOS readings and extensive testing under various types of load.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
Does anyone know how to disable USB power when the system is turned off? I have an LED backlit keyboard that stays on because it must still be receiving power. I can't turn it off without unplugging it once the computer has powered down. I checked all the BIOS settings I could think of without success. "Power on from keyboard" is disabled of course. Thanks.

The red/white USB port on the MOBO provides power even when the computer is off.

Whatever USB ports have their cable run to that slot on the mobo will always have power.

Either move that cable to a diff USB slot on the mobo or plug your keyboard into a diff USB port somewhere else on the computer. Any of the USB ports on the back of the computer should work ok.


----------



## klaxian

My keyboard is plugged into the back of the computer, NOT the front USB ports plugged into the red/white motherboard USB port. Any other ideas?


----------



## Metonymy

No clue what to tell you then. The USB ports in the back shouldn't be powered when the computer is turned off.


----------



## IntelLover

Im getting worried. Do the temps seem normal? Anything wrong?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
Im getting worried. Do the temps seem normal? Anything wrong?

xz


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
Im getting worried. Do the temps seem normal? Anything wrong?

Those temps are fine.


----------



## Velathawen

I'm wondering what the safe temps are for the 890FXA-UD5 NB as I've seen mine hit 60C or so according to HWMonitor. Everything is being run as listed below in sig rig, and I'm wondering what I can do to lower the NB temps short of re-doing the TIM.

Edit -

Scrolled a few pages back and it seems like this discussion is on-going. I ask as I've been crashing a bit but only when folding, so seeing it peak at close to 60C on the NB made me wonder if it is a heat issue.


----------



## moorhen2

Lets get things straight,these are the readouts in HWMonitor for all those not sure about what reading referes to what.LOL!!!


----------



## Velathawen

:/


----------



## Blitz6804

IntelLover: From the look of it, your TMPIN0 is 46Âº C at idle and your TMPIN2 is 43Âº C at idle? What is your ambient? That is a good 10-15Âº C warmer than mine on both.

Your TMPIN1 is your CPU, and your core temps are the displayed value added to 13Âº. Thus, your cores idle at 40Âº C and load to 50Âº C. What cooler are you using? What were you using to load it up? Because if you have a stress program only pushing it to 50Âº C, it is a good cooler. On the other hand, with your idle at 40Âº C, I really think you have either a stock cooler and "load" was not really loaded, or you have a phenomenal cooler in hot ambient temperatures.


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
My keyboard is plugged into the back of the computer, NOT the front USB ports plugged into the red/white motherboard USB port. Any other ideas?

Have you changed the ACHI settings in bios?
As this determines wether your pc provides power on shutdown and can be changed as most pc's allow usb power to carry on running while powered down for charging wireless devices,it can be disabled though.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crossy82* 
Have you changed the ACHI settings in bios?
As this determines wether your pc provides power on shutdown and can be changed as most pc's allow usb power to carry on running while powered down for charging wireless devices,it can be disabled though.

Do you mean ACPI? No, I haven't changed the defaults there. I can't seem to find a setting to disable this without disabling the whole USB controller. "Power on from keyboard" has already been disabled. Any other ideas?


----------



## crossy82

Sorry bout that,i did mean ACPI yes.Not sure as to any other ideas,your problem in theory is to do with ACPI but i'm not an expert.If i find anything though i'll let you know.Good luck.


----------



## klaxian

I think I figured out the setting to ensure the keyboard LEDs turn off when the computer does. I had to set "ErP Support" to "Enabled". This seems to greatly decrease the power draw when shut down and as a result, the LEDs on my keyboard are correctly shut off as well. I don't really like the lack of flexibility in accomplishing this, but it does solve the problem.

From the Gigabyte manual:

ErP Support
Determines whether to let the system consume less than 1W power in S5 (shutdown) state. (Default: Disabled)
Note: When this item is set to Enabled, the following four functions will become unavailable: PME event wake up, power on by mouse, power on by keyboard, and wake on LAN.


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
IntelLover: From the look of it, your TMPIN0 is 46Âº C at idle and your TMPIN2 is 43Âº C at idle? What is your ambient? That is a good 10-15Âº C warmer than mine on both.

Your TMPIN1 is your CPU, and your core temps are the displayed value added to 13Âº. Thus, your cores idle at 40Âº C and load to 50Âº C. What cooler are you using? What were you using to load it up? Because if you have a stress program only pushing it to 50Âº C, it is a good cooler. On the other hand, with your idle at 40Âº C, I really think you have either a stock cooler and "load" was not really loaded, or you have a phenomenal cooler in hot ambient temperatures.

It's 82 F in my house. so 28C. My cooler is a Hyper 212+. this is stock. I am using Prime95 to load. Thanks for helping, the reason I posted it was cause I saw your temps a few pages back. I was like, something isn't right......


----------



## IntelLover

Alright, Im going to do a 30 minute prime as it was only 5 minutes last time.


----------



## polynomialc

ever since i upgraded to this board/cpu, my power supply has been making this high pitch wine.. whenever im using webbrowser, app or game. its corsair hx620w, a bit worried its going to die on me. ive had it for a year or so running my old q9450 p5qdeluxe, and it never made the sound.

im using 5850, 1090t oc'd 3.8, 1 intel ssd, 1 regular harddrive 7200rpm, 1 dvd drive, 6 case fans noctua 120mm's, do you think im maxing out watts for the power supply?

ive been reading corsairs forums, and seen a few clips on youtube about the issue.. apparently its from poor quality manufacturing by the sounds of it. they tell you to try fixes like disable c1e, and enable vsync, both have no effect. they blame pretty much everyone else on their forum, saying its related to poor quality graphics cards, or motherboards, even forum rep for cosair said you could blame your house circuits, using a lamp on the same circuit can effect your power supply. i think next time around ill be buying much higher quality power supply from a better company. ive been seeing some 'gold' rated psu's , wonder if they are worth it


----------



## Blitz6804

IntelLover: Yeah, my ambient is 6.5Âº C cooler. (I am only 71Âº F.) What is the speed of the fan on the cooler? Have a faster one?

polynomialc: My guess is that the power supply was running comfortably before, but it is being used in excess of 50% now. You could contact Corsair and ask about the whining capacitor, but I think they will tell you it is normal.


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
IntelLover: Yeah, my ambient is 6.5Âº C cooler. (I am only 71Âº F.) What is the speed of the fan on the cooler? Have a faster one?

polynomialc: My guess is that the power supply was running comfortably before, but it is being used in excess of 50% now. You could contact Corsair and ask about the whining capacitor, but I think they will tell you it is normal.

It is just the stock CM Blade Master fan. Here are some 30 minute prime pics.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IntelLover* 
It is just the stock CM Blade Master fan. Here are some 30 minute prime pics.

Your temps look good. They match my CPU's temps, but I'm OC'd to 3.65Ghz.

I am however running a strong cooling setup for my CPU, so therein lies the difference.


----------



## IntelLover

How about my TEMPIO0 and 2? Those seem high.


----------



## Blitz6804

They look fine to me. Your cores are only up to 52Âº C or so, meaning you will have about 8Âº C of overclocking headroom if your ambient temperatures and loads go no higher than your present test. Remember to use Large FFTs for the highest CPU temperature. If you really want to go for the gold, use S&M's FPU test, it gets rigs a few degrees warmer than even LinX.


----------



## IntelLover

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


They look fine to me. Your cores are only up to 52Âº C or so, meaning you will have about 8Âº C of overclocking headroom if your ambient temperatures and loads go no higher than your present test. Remember to use Large FFTs for the highest CPU temperature. If you really want to go for the gold, use S&M's FPU test, it gets rigs a few degrees warmer than even LinX.


So TEMPIN 0 and 2 are fine even tough their 10C higher than yours?


----------



## Blitz6804

You are in a much warmer room; it is to be expected. As long as nothing hits 60Âº C (TMPIN0, TMPIN2, or Core + 13), you are in good shape.


----------



## G3RG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


You are in a much warmer room; it is to be expected. As long as nothing hits 60Âº C (TMPIN0, TMPIN2, or Core + 13), you are in good shape.


Thats the problem with mine atm...temp 1 and 2 hit 60+ then I bsod


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Do you guys think it would be a good idea to downgrade to bios F1 or F2 since it's nearly impossible to reach 4.0ghz for me? I've narrowed it down to NB or memory instability, but nothing I change seems to work. When I first got the mobo I immediately flashed it to F3 so maybe F1 or F2 would be better for my hardware.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


Do you guys think it would be a good idea to downgrade to bios F1 or F2 since it's nearly impossible to reach 4.0ghz for me? I've narrowed it down to NB or memory instability, but nothing I change seems to work. When I first got the mobo I immediately flashed it to F3 so maybe F1 or F2 would be better for my hardware.


Try updating to F4. I'm on it and was able to lower my vcore yet keep stability.

If you think it's memory instability, download MemTest, burn to a CD, and run it through 2-3 full cycles.

If you think it's NB instability, up your NB voltage and/or NB-CPU-VID voltage and lower your NB multiplier to keep your Mhz somewhere between 2000-2600 (if you have it higher than that).


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Try updating to F4. I'm on it and was able to lower my vcore yet keep stability.

If you think it's memory instability, download MemTest, burn to a CD, and run it through 2-3 full cycles.

If you think it's NB instability, up your NB voltage and/or NB-CPU-VID voltage and lower your NB multiplier to keep your Mhz somewhere between 2000-2600 (if you have it higher than that).


I'm already on F4.







I've always messed around with NB frequency and voltage. The only thing I haven't done is a complete test in MemTest, but I did get to like 3% before and stopped it. xD


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


I'm already on F4.


Your original post said you flashed to F3 and made no mention of F4.


----------



## jjceo

We are running similar systems. I am running at 4.1 GHz at 1.45 V CPU and 1.2 V NB VID at 2400 MHz. I use BIOS 3.0. I actually found BIOS 1 easy to use and BIOS 3 was harder to get working properly. I still have trouble overclocking the CPU Frequency Clock as I get the Windows BSOD. I settled using the multiplier at 20.5 and undertiming my memory. Through testing I can run for hours at 1.45 V CPU and still be acceptable in the temperature result

At this set up I run cool and fast and rock solid.

If I were you I would try to tinker a little more with the setups in BIOS 3 before I go back to BIOS 1. I hear BIOS F2 was unstable.

Here is my build:
My Computer Build:
Cooler Master HAF 932 Full Tower Black Case
ULTRA X4 750W POWER SUPPLY MODULAR
Corsair 8GB DDR3 PC12800 1600MHz (4x2GB) Class 9
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
Sapphire Radeon HD 5850 1GB TOXIC Ed. DDR5 PCIe 2 cards for Crossfire ready to install
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition 4.1 Ghz CPU
Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 AMD 890FX Socket AM3 MB
Corsair Hydro H50 CPU Liquid Cooler
Intel X25 Sata SSD capacity 160 GB
ASUS 24X DVDRW SATA OEM 2 installed
Seagate 2 TB Serial ATA HD 3 installed and 1 more ready to be installed
Hauppauge 2250 Dual digital QAM TV tuner
Rosewill Internal SD card reader/USB port
LOGISYS Computer CLK12BL2 12" DUAL COLD CATHODE KIT - OEM

Windows Test
Processor 7.7
Memory 7.7
Graphics 7.8
Gaming Graphics 7.8
Primary Drive 7.5


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Your original post said you flashed to F3 and made no mention of F4.










Sorry, I meant when I first got the mobo.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G3RG*


Thats the problem with mine atm...temp 1 and 2 hit 60+ then I bsod


Wait... TMPIN1 hits 60Âº C? That is your CPU temp, and if your CPU temp is that high, your cores are well over the 62Âº C AMD-imposed limit for the 125 W version. Unless you have the 95 W version of the CPU, which AMD says is good to 71Âº C. I would check the mount on your Corsair H50, I think it is not entirely tightened down.


----------



## jjceo

I saw another post where someone hadn't mounted the H50 Heat sink/pump assembly properly and had the same issue. You could see it in the pictures they posted as the teeth of the pump housing were not properly locking to the mounting hardware. He also had high temps. After 2 hours my unit is 45.5 degrees C and the CPU is 52 degrees C.

Are you using a push pull fans system also?


----------



## Blitz6804

jjceo: Could you please add your system to your profile? It would be very helpful.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Wait... TMPIN1 hits 60Âº C? That is your CPU temp, and if your CPU temp is that high, your cores are well over the 62Âº C AMD-imposed limit for the 125 W version. Unless you have the 95 W version of the CPU, which AMD says is good to 71Âº C. I would check the mount on your Corsair H50, I think it is not entirely tightened down.


The cpu temp will always be higher than the core temps,it's the way it works,so if his cpu temp is 60c,the cores will be roughly 10-15c less,if the cpu gets over a certain temp,the thermal cutout will kick in and shut the system down.

As for NB temps,most chipsets have a thermal toleration of roughly 80c.so 60c is well within safe specs,though it's not recomended letting it run at this temp 24/7.


----------



## Blitz6804

No, his core temps are higher. However, the thermal sensor on the Thuban is broken, not unlike the one on the Brisbane. Testing by various sources show that the core temp is about 13Âº C warmer than what is shown most of the time. That is, the cores are about 5-6Âº C warmer than the CPU temperature like all other AMD products I have dealt with. Also note, that instability will result at temperatures above spec but below the thermal cutoff in my experience, regardless of voltage.


----------



## moorhen2

Yes,we know all about the Thuban sensors being broken,but the core temps cant be higher than the actual cpu itself,it does'nt work that way.The max working temp of Hexa's is 62c,this is the cpu,not the cores.As shown below.










Like i said,roughly 10c less than the cpu temp.


----------



## jjceo

Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## Blitz6804

All other AMD CPUs have their Cores as hotter than the CPU. The "Core" is the actual temperature, the "CPU" is the temperature at the IHS, where some dissipation has already occurred. At least, that is how I understood it. I would be hard-pressed to believe that a Thuban has a cooler Core than CPU in direct contradiction to all other AMD CPUs I have used.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

OK, so I've narrowed down my 4.0GHz instability to the NB since it's hard to believe that a 1090T can't reach 4.0 and my RAM is stable in Memtest. I've tried 4.0GHz at 2000 nb and it's still unstable. If I increase the frequency it's even more unstable. I've upped the voltage to 1.4v and tried it, still no dice. I tried 1.19 on the actual NB and that didn't work either. Any suggestions?


----------



## G3RG

Maybe your right about the h50 not being seated right...I'm about to transfer to my pc to my new case when I get my new PSU....I'll get to reseat it then.

This is what my temps looked like after SMP folding+some Linx

I think this is about as high as folding+linx will get my temps, but prime95+linx will cause me to hit 65c on the temp monitors (not cpu) and bsod.









And this is idle (well with a few browsers open and just cause minimized)


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
OK, so I've narrowed down my 4.0GHz instability to the NB since it's hard to believe that a 1090T can't reach 4.0 and my RAM is stable in Memtest. I've tried 4.0GHz at 2000 nb and it's still unstable. If I increase the frequency it's even more unstable. I've upped the voltage to 1.4v and tried it, still no dice. I tried 1.19 on the actual NB and that didn't work either. Any suggestions?

So you changed the NB voltage. What about the CPU-NB-VID voltage?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
So you changed the NB voltage. What about the CPU-NB-VID voltage?

That's what I raised to 1.4v.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
That's what I raised to 1.4v.









Then go higher









I may have overlooked it, but what is your NB speed currently? And what's the multiplier set to?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
Then go higher









I may have overlooked it, but what is your NB speed currently? And what's the multiplier set to?

Not sure about the multiplier (if you mean NB multi, CPU multi is 20), but I've had it set anywhere from 2000 to 3000 and nothing has worked, even with high voltages. (like 2600mhz at 1.35v)


----------



## Blitz6804

I would not set CPU-NB any higher than 1.400 V. Have you tried decreasing your memory divider by a step just to test? I have found Memtest to be completely worthless for stability (passing several runs of Memtest without a single error, but crashing within seconds of loading [email protected]), and instead, can only use it to find hardware defects. You have your Ripjaws in the white slots, correct? Have you attempted to reduce your CPU multiplier by one and leaving everything else where it is? Maybe your CPU is a "dud" and will not do 4.0 GHz?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I would not set CPU-NB any higher than 1.400 V. Have you tried decreasing your memory divider by a step just to test? I have found Memtest to be completely worthless for stability (passing several runs of Memtest without a single error, but crashing within seconds of loading [email protected]), and instead, can only use it to find hardware defects. You have your Ripjaws in the white slots, correct? Have you attempted to reduce your CPU multiplier by one and leaving everything else where it is? Maybe your CPU is a "dud" and will not do 4.0 GHz?

I have decreased memory speed and timings and all it does it increase stability, but it's still very unstable. The RAM is in the white slots. I have tried many combinations of HTREF and multiplier and everything is the same.

It's hard to believe that it would be a dud, as it would be the first time I've heard a 1090T being unable to reach 4.0ghz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Turbo is off? Spread spectra are off? Is your power supply providing constant power or is it rippling causing a crash?

What is the manner of failure? Blue screen? Blackscreen? Hard lock?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Turbo is off? Spread spectra are off? Is your power supply providing constant power or is it rippling causing a crash?

What is the manner of failure? Blue screen? Blackscreen? Hard lock?

Everything is off. As far as I know, the PSU is fine. Failure is just a shut down. No BSOD or freeze.


----------



## lancermagi

Using the HWMonitor, I have got TMPIN0,1 & 2 @ 84 degrees max.

But the Core#0-5 tops at 49 degrees.

I dont understand why my TMPIN can shoot to 84degrees. And sometimes it happens at idle. When I feel the airflow from the casing, its not even warm at all.

Any ideas?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
Everything is off. As far as I know, the PSU is fine. Failure is just a shut down. No BSOD or freeze.

Have you run OCCT to see if you have any voltage ripples?


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
OK, so I've narrowed down my 4.0GHz instability to the NB since it's hard to believe that a 1090T can't reach 4.0 and my RAM is stable in Memtest. I've tried 4.0GHz at 2000 nb and it's still unstable. If I increase the frequency it's even more unstable. I've upped the voltage to 1.4v and tried it, still no dice. I tried 1.19 on the actual NB and that didn't work either. Any suggestions?

Hate to say it but maybe you were unlucky and got a dud 1090.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
I have decreased memory speed and timings and all it does it increase stability, but it's still very unstable. The RAM is in the white slots. I have tried many combinations of HTREF and multiplier and everything is the same.

It's hard to believe that it would be a dud, as it would be the first time I've heard a 1090T being unable to reach 4.0ghz.

Have you got your voltages set to "offset" or "manual",????


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
Everything is off. As far as I know, the PSU is fine. Failure is just a shut down. No BSOD or freeze.

Not sure if I am repeating myself here, but I had the same crashes on my last pc. No BSOD, no freeze, just a shutdown. Hit the power button and it fired straight back up.
It happened every time I ran a certain benchmark application.
I finally traced it (with some assistance) to CoreTemp. As soon as I disabled it, the problem went.


----------



## Blitz6804

I have had the same problem before crunchie, which is why I swung to speedfan. (I have since swung back.) To verify CHUNKYBOWSER, what version of CoreTemp are you running? I have 0.99.7 (ZIP) running without issue.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I'm not using Coretemp, I'm using CPU-Z and HWMonitor.

I haven't tried OCCT yet.

All voltages are on manual and they should be high enough for the OC I'm trying to reach.


----------



## Blitz6804

When you say CPU Load is 53Âº C, which sensor is getting that? TMPIN1? Or Core? If Core, I think you are overheating, if TMPIN1, it should not be the problem.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

Hey guys, does the UD5 have 1 or 2 SATA controller/s? I have this mobo but I'm not sure how to find out??


----------



## Blitz6804

Has two. One powers the blue SATA (6.0 Gbps) headers, the other controls the white SATA (3.0 Gbps) headers and the eSATA headers out the back.

EDIT: Correction after reading the block diagram; the SATA 6.0 Gbps and the SATA 3.0 Gbps are both off the SB850, the eSATA are off a separate JMicron controller.


----------



## ebolamonkey3

So I cannot raid 2 SSD and then use another 2tb hard drive for storage w/o going external right?


----------



## Blitz6804

What do you mean? I have my RAID 10 and a 750 GB in the blue connectors, the optical drives in the white ones. You can use the storage drive on the RAID controller, just leave it as a single-disc array.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Hey,

I want to purchase this board but I have a few question(s) to ask. The UD5 is the model in particular. Ok so I was wondering if it had one or two sat controllers? Reason I ask is because I want to use raid along with my single ssd but apparently trim commands don't get based if the sata controller is set to raid mode.

Thanks a bunch!

Kbye


----------



## saint19

@Aznboy1993

The UD5 has two SATA controllers one for the SATA III (blue SATA) and other one for the white SATA (SATA II)


----------



## klaxian

In addition, you can split up the protocol used for various ports so that some use IDE or AHCI while others use RAID.

However, single SSDs plugged into SATA ports set to RAID should just fall back to AHCI (subset of RAID) where TRIM is supported.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER*


I'm not using Coretemp, I'm using CPU-Z and HWMonitor.

I haven't tried OCCT yet.

All voltages are on manual and they should be high enough for the OC I'm trying to reach.


May not be CT. Could be any app that is playing interference.

Just throwing it out there 'cos it was similar to what happened to me.

Try disabling stuff one at a time to see. Will not hurt







.


----------



## Aznboy1993

thanks for the responses. i am pretty stupid because i could have figured that out by looking in the manual (which i did after post here)


----------



## crossy82

Are there any new bios coming for the UD7 anytime soon?


----------



## decimator

Tweaked my memory timings a bit and now I'm able to run DDR3-2000 with 3000MHz NB freq and 4GHz CPU







. Currently running 50 passes of LinX and it just finished the 35th pass. I'm gonna stress it some more, but hopefully this is my final overclock (unless it's proven stable at lower voltages).

My settings:
HTT - 250MHz
CPU multi - 16x
NB multi - 12x
vcore - 1.425
vdimm - 1.65
NB voltage - 1.17
CPU-NB VID - 1.35
memory divider - 8x

Timings are 9-10-9-24-1T. Yeah, those timings suck, but I'll work on those later once I get through my stress tests.

EDIT: Failed on the 47th pass







. Back to the drawing board...


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
EDIT: Failed on the 47th pass







. Back to the drawing board...

Bummer. What do you think caused it?


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
Bummer. What do you think caused it?

Not quite sure, to tell you the truth...Just playing around with voltage and timings right now. Hopefully, I can get this stable...

EDIT: I've found that I'm not quite sure how hot my cores really are. I mean, I know that you're supposed to add 13*C to the core temperatures shown in HWMonitor, but the delta between my core temps and TMPIN1 isn't always constant. At idle, the delta is about 10*C, but at load it's only about 7*C. Does the +13*C rule still apply?


----------



## Metonymy

Wait, what's this "add 13" rule to HWMonitor?


----------



## decimator

This.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Though; generally the rule of thumb is to take the core temps and add 13*C to it; and that should put you ballpark of what your temps would be.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
No, his core temps are higher. However, the thermal sensor on the Thuban is broken, not unlike the one on the Brisbane. Testing by various sources show that the core temp is about 13Âº C warmer than what is shown most of the time. That is, the cores are about 5-6Âº C warmer than the CPU temperature like all other AMD products I have dealt with.


----------



## Metonymy

I have a Propus processor. I'm guessing this 13C rule will apply once I get the 1055t?


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
I have a Propus processor. I'm guessing this 13C rule will apply once I get the 1055t?

Yes, this only pertains to Thuban CPU's. They have borked temp sensors...


----------



## saint19

I do some OC today with the F4 BIOS version and is very good, solid and works fine. The problem is my CPU can anybody help me with my OC settings?

CPU: Phenom II X4 955 C2

I can't get 3.8GHz stable with LinX, OCCT or any other program.

Vcore: 1.475V
Mutiplier: x18
NB frequency: 2800MHz
NB voltage: 1.375V
RAM: 8-8-8-24 @ 1.65V in auto doesn't works.


----------



## Blitz6804

The alternative decimate: the Cores should be about 5Âº C warmer than the CPU when all is said and done. (The worst AMD I have had was 8Âº C.) With that in mind, just keep TMPIN1 under 55Âº C, and then the Cores would be below 60Âº C. Maybe even 62Âº C if your sensor differs by 7Âº C. Except in S&M, my TMPIN1 never gets near 50Âº C; S&M pushes it to about 55Âº C.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Has anyone considered that motherboard sensors may also be inaccurate? I know this has been a recurring issue in the past, and I still wonder if it's happening again now. For me, AMD Overdrive reports temps the same as HWMonitor or Core Temp do...from the core. Stock speed/voltage load temps for me (with the Noctua in my sig, and a 100 CFM fan on top), in a 22C room, with more than plenty of airflow moving through (200 cfm at the absolute minimum) my temp was 41C. Adding 13 to that would give 54C. My C2 965 didn't even run that hot in the exact same case, same ambient. This is also assuming its core temp was accurate. 
In contrast (and I mentioned this before), the last UD5 I had (waiting on another) was showing higher CPU temps (beyond the 62C safe limit). Specifically it showed 67C in HW Monitor for the CPU temp (not core). My core showed 41. Even with the 13C addition (which I also believe is inaccurate in my case at least), the CPU temp is still way off, and unreliable at best. Maybe the replacement board will be better. I also measured with an infrared thermometer. Is it calibrated constantly? Nope, but it's as sure a bet as anything from what I can tell. At the very least I'm more inclined to trust the core temp for now.


----------



## Blitz6804

UnexplodedCow: HWMonitor's Core matches CoreTemp in my case. The TMPIN1 matches Everest's "CPU" and the temperature shown in the BIOS. The later is consistently 8-9Âº C lower than the former. When you use the temperature offset of CoreTemp, CoreTemp's reading of the core is then 5-6Âº C warmer than the CPU temp. As I said, not all Thubans are off the same amount, ranging from 11-15Âº C from my Googling, hence why I said to go "on average" of 13Âº C. Historically, AMD Cores read 4-8Âº C warmer than AMD "CPUs," even on the Brisbane with the sensor that was off 25Âº C or so.


----------



## Metonymy

On the UD5... can I run Nvidia graphics cards? (Yes, this is ignorance speaking).

I ask because my mobo has an ATI chipset and am curious if it would cause any conflicts.


----------



## saint19

^Yeah u can. Take a look of my signature and with some modifications u can run SLI in mobos with ATI chipset.


----------



## Blitz6804

nVidia card on an AMD chipset is no problems. As saint19 said, there is even an SLI modification for it.

AMD card on an nVidia chipset is Russian Roulette. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does not, and even when it does, nVidia might come by later to make sure it stops.


----------



## saint19

Yeah unfortunately doesn't exist good mobos with nVidia chipset that can against the ATI chipset.


----------



## Metonymy

Ok. What drove my question was whether or not to jump to the Golden GTX465 (and unlock to a 470) or to grab a second 5770. I also needed to know if this board would handle it.

After reading the following article, and understanding the ATI vs Nvidia situation, I think i'm going to CF two 5770 Hawks...

http://www.legionhardware.com/articl...d_5850,11.html


----------



## saint19

Good choice, sometimes the 5770 Crossfire performs a little better that the 5850.


----------



## Blitz6804

In games that support Crossfire anyway. Personally, I would rather go for one of the biggest, beefiest cards you could afford. Maybe I will give the GTX 485 a whirl when it comes out...

I know right now my sister's computer beats mine in GRID (x4 965 with XFX HD 5870 XXX) because it does not support Crossfire. Everything else I destroy her with.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
In games that support Crossfire anyway. Personally, I would rather go for one of the biggest, beefiest cards you could afford. Maybe I will give the GTX 485 a whirl when it comes out...

I know right now my sister's computer beats mine in GRID (x4 965 with XFX HD 5870 XXX) because it does not support Crossfire. Everything else I destroy her with.

My budget <> your budget... LOL.

I can afford to go bigger if I'd like, but I'm not a hardcore gamer.

I'm looking to add the 1055t 95w when available, I need two more HDD's to Raid 1 for my photography, and I'd like to add the second video card in x-fire, well, kinda for the hell of it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I would need to sell the HD 5970, but that went without saying. The GTX 480 beats an HD 5870, but loses to the HD 5970. Maybe the GTX 485 would be about the same? Who knows. The biggest problem is my extreme hate for nVidia after the nonsense they pulled with my nForce 3... so I am likely where I am until HD 6xxx series comes out.


----------



## saint19

I think that a SLI GTX 460 is a better option since is the winner against the GTX 480 and for the same price.


----------



## decimator

Is it confirmed that running HWMonitor as an administrator gives accurate temp readings? It's reading a good 5*C lower on load for me for my CPU at load than before when I just ran HWMonitor normally...This is great and all, but only if it's true...


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
I think that a SLI GTX 460 is a better option since is the winner against the GTX 480 and for the same price.

But I have an ATI chipset and I'd rather not have to "hack" it.


----------



## saint19

I'm planing hack my UD5 :lol: will see if that works


----------



## Blitz6804

decimate: I always have ran HWMonitor as admin. HWMonitor, CoreTemp, Everest, and everything else I have tried all agree on Core and "CPU" temps, even EasyTune.


----------



## I_Claudius

I have just started into the build of a new PC using the 890FXA-UD5 motherboard, but have found (to my annoyance) that the CPU cooler I have won't fit on the board because the DIMM slots are too close to the CPU.The CPU cooler that I thought would be ideal for this board is the Arctic cooler Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2, which can sit over the CPU facing towards or away from the "GIGABYTE" 890FX heatsink.

*However, this cooler will fit if only there are only 2 sticks of DDR3 in the DIMM slots, but with 4 sticks it is a no-go.* There is lots of space between the "Ultra Durable" MOSFET heatsink and the CPU, but none on the DIMM side. When the Artic cooler is installed, it overhangs the first DIMM slot by about one or two milimeters, making it impossible to install a 4th stick of DDR3 in that slot, regardless of whether DDR3 has cooling fins.










Putting the fan on the other side makes no difference. The problem with the Artic Cooler relative to this board is three fold: 


> 1. it can only be mounted two ways, but never facing toward or away from the DIMMS, only parallel;





> 2. the fins are low down, close to the CPU, so the there is no "ceiling room" above the DIMMS, in fact there is a 4mm shortfall;





> 3. the cooler is is 10.4 cm (4.0 inches) wide, which means the fins pertrude over the 4th DIMM slot by one or two millimeters.


There seems to be a similar "limited clearance" problem with the Nocurna, as this article illustrates.

I think the proximity of the CPU to the DIMM slots is a design flaw with the 890FXA-UD5. It would be better if there was a row of capacitors between the CPU and the DIMMS in the same way there is a row of them between the CPU and "Ultra Durable" MOSFET heatsink.

Well, I have made my mistake, and had my rant, but has anyone suggest an CPU fan cooler that can fit when all 4 DIMMS are full?


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

159.99 on newegg with promo code EMCYWYS53 48 hour sale! anyone need another board?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...13128441-L010C


----------



## Blitz6804

It is not cheap I_Claudius, but the Prolimatech Megahalems or Mega Shadow both fit. You need the cooler, two 120mm x 25mm fans, and the AM2+/AM3 mounting bracket. If you would rather, you can also buy two sets of the 38mm fan clips to mount two 120 mm x 38m fans as I have.

The advantage of this setup is the cooler may be mounted in any orientation. On this board, however, even with the 25mm fan you can only put normal-height RAM. (The 25mm blocks two slots; the 38mm blocks three.) If you want to use oversized RAM, you will need to have the cooler set up only as a pull, not a push-pull. Granted, my DFI I had it like that, and temperatures were only 1Âº C warmer than with the push-pull configuration. (And apparently, about the same as when I tested push only.) Cooling performance as a push-pull is outstanding however, even with my fans running at only 1400 RPM. I currently run dual 38mm fans in push-pull with two kits of G.Skill ECO DDR3-1600 CL7 (F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO), giving me four full slots of normal-height RAM.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *I_Claudius*


I have just started into the build of a new PC using the 890FXA-UD5 motherboard, but have found (to my annoyance) that the CPU cooler I have won't fit on the board because the DIMM slots are too close to the CPU.The CPU cooler that I thought would be ideal for this board is the Arctic cooler Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2, which can sit over the CPU facing towards or away from the "GIGABYTE" 890FX heatsink.

*However, this cooler will fit if only there are only 2 sticks of DDR3 in the DIMM slots, but with 4 sticks it is a no-go.* There is lots of space between the "Ultra Durable" MOSFET heatsink and the CPU, but none on the DIMM side. When the Artic cooler is installed, it overhangs the first DIMM slot by about one or two milimeters, making it impossible to install a 4th stick of DDR3 in that slot, regardless of whether DDR3 has cooling fins.










Putting the fan on the other side makes no difference. The problem with the Artic Cooler relative to this board is three fold: 


> 1. it can only be mounted two ways, but never facing toward or away from the DIMMS, only parallel;





> 2. the fins are low down, close to the CPU, so the there is no "ceiling room" above the DIMMS, in fact there is a 4mm shortfall;





> 3. the cooler is is 10.4 cm (4.0 inches) wide, which means the fins pertrude over the 4th DIMM slot by one or two millimeters.


There seems to be a similar "limited clearance" problem with the Nocurna, as this article illustrates.

I think the proximity of the CPU to the DIMM slots is a design flaw with the 890FXA-UD5. It would be better if there was a row of capacitors between the CPU and the DIMMS in the same way there is a row of them between the CPU and "Ultra Durable" MOSFET heatsink.

Well, I have made my mistake, and had my rant, but has anyone suggest an CPU fan cooler that can fit when all 4 DIMMS are full?


That's the problem of the UD5 the near RAM slot to the socket blocks the possibility to install a dual fan cooler with high end RAM like G.Skill PI series.

With my Hyper 212+ I had to change the fan to side since the RAM (low profile Crucial) doesn't fit in the 1st and 2nd RAM slot with the fan in the front side of the cooler.


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


Originally Posted by *I_Claudius* 
I have just started into the build of a new PC using the 890FXA-UD5 motherboard, but have found (to my annoyance) that the CPU cooler I have won't fit on the board because the DIMM slots are too close to the CPU.The CPU cooler that I thought would be ideal for this board is the Arctic cooler Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2, which can sit over the CPU facing towards or away from the "GIGABYTE" 890FX heatsink.

*However, this cooler will fit if only there are only 2 sticks of DDR3 in the DIMM slots, but with 4 sticks it is a no-go.* There is lots of space between the "Ultra Durable" MOSFET heatsink and the CPU, but none on the DIMM side. When the Artic cooler is installed, it overhangs the first DIMM slot by about one or two milimeters, making it impossible to install a 4th stick of DDR3 in that slot, regardless of whether DDR3 has cooling fins.










Putting the fan on the other side makes no difference. The problem with the Artic Cooler relative to this board is three fold:


> 1. it can only be mounted two ways, but never facing toward or away from the DIMMS, only parallel;





> 2. the fins are low down, close to the CPU, so the there is no "ceiling room" above the DIMMS, in fact there is a 4mm shortfall;





> 3. the cooler is is 10.4 cm (4.0 inches) wide, which means the fins pertrude over the 4th DIMM slot by one or two millimeters.


There seems to be a similar "limited clearance" problem with the Nocurna, as this article illustrates.

I think the proximity of the CPU to the DIMM slots is a design flaw with the 890FXA-UD5. It would be better if there was a row of capacitors between the CPU and the DIMMS in the same way there is a row of them between the CPU and "Ultra Durable" MOSFET heatsink.

Well, I have made my mistake, and had my rant, but has anyone suggest an CPU fan cooler that can fit when all 4 DIMMS are full?

Sorry to say but the arctic 7 freezer is designed for intel chips anyway.If you can i would return or sell an replace with something more suited to AMD.Check out the 'top 5 coolers article on frostytech' for best compatibilty and reviews.

http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crossy82* 
Sorry to say but the arctic 7 freezer is designed for intel chips anyway.If you can i would return or sell an replace with something more suited to AMD.Check out the 'top 5 coolers article on frostytech' for best compatibilty and reviews.

http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm

The 7 freezer pro Rev. 2 support both Intel and AMD CPUs.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Gigabyte finally is sending the motherboard back..should be here middle of next week. The RMA return form shows "repaired." I have no idea if they did something with the board, are sending another, or all out replaced it. I'll know when it's received....just feeling impatient now.


----------



## klaxian

Me:

Quote:



I have an LED backlit USB keyboard. When I shut down the computer, the LEDs remain lit, but the keyboard is not functional. I have disabled "power on from keyboard" in the BIOS. How can I set the motherboard not to supply power to my USB keyboard when the system is off? Any other ideas? Thanks.


Gigabyte Tech Support:

Quote:



It is normal due to standby power off your PSU, the only way to shut off all power would be to flip the power switch on back of the PSU to the off position


Do they have monkeys working over there or what? First, I already figured out (since it took to long to hear back from them) that enabling the ErP function in the BIOS solves the problem, but it also disables many functions in standby. Second, did no one think that folks would have devices like LED keyboards that shouldn't receive constant power when the computer is powered off?


----------



## G3RG

Ya I'm pretty sure they do... at least in tech support...


----------



## decimator

Was tweaking timings and it failed to boot into Windows...Couldn't even reach the BIOS. Had to clear CMOS to get everything back up and running. Gonna re-install Windows and will get back to tweaking some more tonight...

I've found that no matter what, my setup will not run with timings where CL, tRCD, and tRP are the same number. I don't know if it's my CPU's IMC or if it's my sticks, but it just won't do it. Weird...


----------



## lngu81

Update*
If you guys recall my saga with F4 and AMD overdrive that I thought pricked my mobo. it turned out that the mobo is working fine, but it was replace with the help of excellent customer service from Gigabyte, kudo up. Instead my 1090t cpu was the culprit, it was dead after I ran autoclock in in Amd overdrive. I'm still puzzled how did I fried my cpu while it was at stock CPU, anyways I bought a new 1090t and will be oc tonight







.
Therefore my apologies to Gigabyte for wrongly blamed on the mobo... MY question is should I RMA the CPU? Yes I oc it, but it was at stock voltage.


----------



## I_Claudius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


It is not cheap I_Claudius, but the Prolimatech Megahalems or Mega Shadow both fit. You need the cooler, two 120mm x 25mm fans, and the AM2+/AM3 mounting bracket. If you would rather, you can also buy two sets of the 38mm fan clips to mount two 120 mm x 38m fans as I have.

The advantage of this setup is the cooler may be mounted in any orientation. On this board, however, even with the 25mm fan you can only put normal-height RAM. (The 25mm blocks two slots; the 38mm blocks three.) If you want to use oversized RAM, you will need to have the cooler set up only as a pull, not a push-pull.


Thanks Blitz for taking the time to reply and for bringing the Prolimatech Megahalem and the Mega Shadow to my attention, as these look like very high quality coolers that should fit (they are 7.8 cm wide) with lots of cooling capacity to support overclocking. On looks alone, the Megahalem miust be about one of the most impressive coolers anywhere - it has one mother of a heatsink!










My experience with the Arctic cooler Freezer Pro shows that for a cooler to fit cleanly into the CPU area of a 90FXA-UD5, it has to be less than 10cm wide or be tall enough to oversail the closest RAM module so that cooler is not blocking the closest DIMM socket.

The Megahalem does this, but there little space for a fan between the DIMM socket and heatsink, as you say. The other disadvantage is the height (15.9cm or over 6inches) and the weight (790g or 1.7lbs). The weight is a concern, as that is a lot of heatsink to be hanging from the 90FXA-UD5 motherboard when I mount it vertically in my case.

I have just ordered an alternative which I think might work a little better, but I won't know until I try fitting it: the Thermaltake ISGC-200  which is 9.5cm wide, so is should fit without having to remove the fins from my sticks of Corsair DDR3. The width of the Thermaltake is about 5.2cm less than the Arctic cooler. It is also quite tall (about 14cm high), but at 475g, it is nowhere as heavy as the Megahalem.










As I say, I am hoping that the Thermaltake will be the perfect fit, so I will let you know how it works out. I don't think it is as powerful a cooler as the Megahalem, but then my priority is quiet cooling rather than overclocking.


----------



## Blitz6804

I guess it is a little late for this now, but if you wanted quiet, the easiest thing to have done was mount the megahalems with an S-Flex F in pull-only. When I first got the cooler (with my DFI board) that is how I had it set up. This would permit completely silent running and all four RAM spots. In any event, I am curious how the Thermaltake turns out, I have never used one of their heatsinks. (Even if they are the only case manufacturer I have bought.)


----------



## hylong

Am I the only one that having problems get it to boot into the CMOS screen? After several hours of trouble shooting at the retail distributor (placed various RAM types and models to any combination to the DIMM slots, using different video cards and monitors) they concluded the motherboard was defective.
I went home with the 2nd motherboard and again it behaves exactly the same as the previous board.
Is there any special procedure you need to perform to get into the CMOS screen. From there you can set the controller to the appropriate type and so on....
Any tips/comments/suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


----------



## G3RG

Could there be too many motherboard standoffs? If there was an extra one it could be making a short between the motherboard and the case. Try booting without hds, 1 stick of ram at a time in multiple slots, different powersupply if you have one...even an oem one should be fine just as long as you can see if it boots. It could be the cpu even. If possible you could try it on a different motherboard, or try a different cpu on your motherboard.


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
Could there be too many motherboard standoffs? If there was an extra one it could be making a short between the motherboard and the case. Try booting without hds, 1 stick of ram at a time in multiple slots, different powersupply if you have one...even an oem one should be fine just as long as you can see if it boots. It could be the cpu even. If possible you could try it on a different motherboard, or try a different cpu on your motherboard.

Sorry I didn't went into great details but that was exactly how the retailer did. They remove the CPU and place on another board which proof the CPU was Okay.
The mobo presently not installed in the case. I'm just power off from another PSU (that I temporary remove from another computer). I also using an older video card (Nvidia 7600GT) and trying the RAM (1 and 2 sticks) in various slots and combination I can think of. I don't have any hard drives or optical drive hook up at the moment. I just want to get to the CMOS screen and determine that is working. The Power, Reset, and Clear CMOS LED light up and the CPU fan (connected to the fan header) is running fine.


----------



## crossy82

Good news,sort of...scan.co.uk now have 95w version.
However they are only selling when you buy a mobo as it is oem.price Â£154.57

Should be seeing some reviews based on it overclocking abilities coming soon.should prove interesting.


----------



## G3RG

Well I'm at a loss lol...you and the retailer did/are doing everything that I could suggest...


----------



## hylong

Thank for trying. The retailer is going to pick up the mobo, cpu and ram to test at their shop tonight.
I can't be that unlucky to receive 2 defective mobo consecutively?


----------



## G3RG

It's possible the retailer got a defective shipment...


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I guess it is a little late for this now, but if you wanted quiet, the easiest thing to have done was mount the megahalems with an S-Flex F in pull-only. When I first got the cooler (with my DFI board) that is how I had it set up. This would permit completely silent running and all four RAM spots. In any event, I am curious how the Thermaltake turns out, I have never used one of their heatsinks. (Even if they are the only case manufacturer I have bought.)


I have the Megahalems. Using Gentle Typhoon 1850's in push/pull. And yes, I have all 4 RAM slots filled.

This setup is near silent and keeps my CPU at a gentle 40C at full load.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sure, because like me, you have the ECOs; they are standard-height RAM. You would agree with me that any tall RAM would be blocked in a slot by the 25mm fan, three by the 38mm fan right?


----------



## decimator

I've found that my CPU's IMC is a pos...Apparently it could run 3000MHz with 1.4 CPU-NB voltage, but only with my memory at 1600MHz with loose timings and my CPU at stock frequency. The second I start overclocking my CPU while maintaining NB freq, LinX errors out (keep in mind, these are 1800MHz sticks, which I haven't even reached yet, and these sticks have been memtest-tested to work at rated speeds). Now I can't keep using 1.4 volts for CPU-NB because once I started overclocking my CPU, the heat just got out of control. With my CPU overclocked, I can't even run 2600MHz NB freq at 1.325 CPU-NB voltage







.


----------



## Blitz6804

That sounds more like what I have gotten decimate. My final overclock has me with the Northbridge at 2750 MHz with 1.275 V. RAM is only at DDR3-1333 however, but keep in mind there is eight gigabytes of it.


----------



## polynomialc

blitz could u post up your detailed memory settings, i have the same eco set, just wondering what settings people are using for this kit. currently im using 8-8-8-24 1600 1t, all other settings are bios defaults for the memory


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hylong*


Sorry I didn't went into great details but that was exactly how the retailer did. They remove the CPU and place on another board which proof the CPU was Okay. 
The mobo presently not installed in the case. I'm just power off from another PSU (that I temporary remove from another computer). I also using an older video card (Nvidia 7600GT) and trying the RAM (1 and 2 sticks) in various slots and combination I can think of. I don't have any hard drives or optical drive hook up at the moment. I just want to get to the CMOS screen and determine that is working. The Power, Reset, and Clear CMOS LED light up and the CPU fan (connected to the fan header) is running fine.


THis sound exactly like my issue, but it turned out i fried my CPU. Check the PSU, if not, possibly both mobo are faulty, I had experinced that too. Fortunately Gigabyte customer services are top notch, it's better if you deal with them directly.


----------



## Blitz6804

polynomialc: I posted my settings in Post 881, linked for your convenience.


----------



## hylong

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


THis sound exactly like my issue, but it turned out i fried my CPU. Check the PSU, if not, possibly both mobo are faulty, I had experinced that too. Fortunately Gigabyte customer services are top notch, it's better if you deal with them directly.


I've send my components to Gigabyte's support to ensure the compatibility. The only thing that has me concern are the RAM I selected, since I haven't seen any of those from all the users on this thread.


----------



## polynomialc

blitz, thanks for link, im currently using your settings, whats are you prime load temps like, im getting 30c idle, but 62-63c under prime 6 core load, with my poor hyper 212 plus 2 fan , pull&push. i have a feeling i need better cooling. system seems very fast responsive with those settings though.. just have to work on temps


----------



## lngu81

ok updated to F4, I noticed that the green Dual bios sign and Energy sign are missing from post, while they do exist in F3. Does this applied to everyone?


----------



## Blitz6804

polynomialc: My CPU sensor (TMPIN1 in HWMonitor) gets to about 50Âº C with two instances of Prime running. It gets to 55Âº C or so if I run S&M's FPU test at 100% / long.


----------



## Blostorm

DUMB QUESTION:

I received my board today. Installed the I/O shield and the board but the I/O shield is like curved. Do I have to open all the little "legs type" of metal (probably to ground the connectors) or I just let them like closed and it still makes contact to the connectors. It doesnt block any of the ports.

I feel actually dumb because I never opened em and it always been fine but it's a first time an i/o shield is curving a lil bit.


----------



## Blitz6804

I usually bend them just enough to clear the boxes such that the EFI shield is flat.


----------



## Blostorm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I usually bend them just enough to clear the boxes such that the EFI shield is flat.


Them to be straigh or like 90 degres ?

edit: actually I think you don't have to touch them. I'll try and see if they are grounded if not I'll fix it.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

eyh I have a problem I try to rise my multiplier to get at 3.6GHz but even if I save and exit when I run prime using CPUid the clock speed is at stock speed .

Why? did I fogot to do something or is it an evil being reseting the setting to auto ?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Sure, because like me, you have the ECOs; they are standard-height RAM. You would agree with me that any tall RAM would be blocked in a slot by the 25mm fan, three by the 38mm fan right?


I would agree with anyone who says that because it's true. Any RAM with a huge ramsink or a tall cooling solution on it will be blocked by such a large cooler and the attached fans.

I actually have to take off my push fan to get my RAM out of the slot closest to the CPU. Slight inconvenience, but it's not like I take my RAM out all the time. I'm just glad it fits.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blostorm* 
Them to be straigh or like 90 degres ?

Going toward 90Âº. The usually push up against the boxes of the motherboard when I am done. I would take a picture, but I have two Ultra Kazes in the way.


----------



## decimator

I'm really starting to hate my CPU's IMC now...I'm slowly upping the NB multi since I found my stable CPU overclock, and everything was fine and dandy up to 2500MHz. Didn't even need to up the CPU-NB voltage for that speed. Ran 10 passes of LinX fine. As soon as I up the multi and reach 2750MHz NB freq, it fails to boot into Windows and corrupts my OS install. This is going to be the 3rd time in the last 2 days that I'm re-installing Windows...


----------



## Blitz6804

Does the recovery tool not fix it? There is something at play we are not missing I believe, I have never had an unstable overclock on this board hose my operating system. (And I have had some epic RAM / Northbridge related crashes.)


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Does the recovery tool not fix it? There is something at play we are not missing I believe, I have never had an unstable overclock on this board hose my operating system. (And I have had some epic RAM / Northbridge related crashes.)

Well, to be honest, it probably didn't completely corrupt my OS, because the last time this happened, I just restarted and booted into Windows fine after tweaking some settings, but when I tried running a stress test after that, it started acting all wonky and the computer just restarted on me. So I'm not taking any chances now and am just reinstalling Windows. Probably will save me a headache down the line...


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marc-Olivier Beaudoin* 
eyh I have a problem I try to rise my multiplier to get at 3.6GHz but even if I save and exit when I run prime using CPUid the clock speed is at stock speed .

Why? did I fogot to do something or is it an evil being reseting the setting to auto ?

Do u disable Cool'nQuit and C1E?


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

I disabled it and it worked . It was core boost that was holding the multiplier back








now I'm trying to get 4GHz stable .

Thanks to decimate


----------



## saint19

Nice, enjoy the OC and post the results


----------



## Section-9

I just built a brand new PC using GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 2.1), getting incredibly noticeable noise and popping from my audio devices be it speakers, headphones on USB or the motherboards audio jacks. Anyone else here experience this when they first purchased the MB ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Blitz6804

Upgrade to BIOS F4 if have not already done so and/or uninstall EasyTune 6.


----------



## crunchie

Check that there are no other power supplies nearby. I have a Ritmo docking station and the power supply it uses causes noise through my speakers.
Has this PC been on the net? There is a nasty bootkit going around that affects the sound.


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Section-9*


I just built a brand new PC using GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 2.1), getting incredibly noticeable noise and popping from my audio devices be it speakers, headphones on USB or the motherboards audio jacks. Anyone else here experience this when they first purchased the MB ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.










Bios F4 seem to fix the problem, but I dont recommended update to bios F4, because I have alot of issues with F4, try reinstall audio driver from the disk, not microsoft standard driver, if you are using DFX plugin, disable it or reinstall DFX as well.


----------



## decimator

So I took my setup apart today and re-applied the TIM on my CPU. Put everything back together and now my optical drive is running really slowly...I have no idea what's causing this...


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


I'm really starting to hate my CPU's IMC now...I'm slowly upping the NB multi since I found my stable CPU overclock, and everything was fine and dandy up to 2500MHz. Didn't even need to up the CPU-NB voltage for that speed. Ran 10 passes of LinX fine. As soon as I up the multi and reach 2750MHz NB freq, it fails to boot into Windows and corrupts my OS install. This is going to be the 3rd time in the last 2 days that I'm re-installing Windows...










i use 1.250 v for 2800mhz Cpu Vid NB, stable, temp. reach 52C. initially I work my way up from 2000mhz with 1.25 until it became unstable. Ram set as factory daefault.


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


So I took my setup apart today and re-applied the TIM on my CPU. Put everything back together and now my optical drive is running really slowly...I have no idea what's causing this...


restore Bios to fail safe and work from there


----------



## lngu81

QUESTION = Bios F4 Bios POST screen is missing _"DUAL BIOS"_ and _"ENERGY"_ logos. Are you guys suffering the same thing?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


restore Bios to fail safe and work from there










Tried it. Didn't fix it. Thanks, though. Man, this sucks...I don't know what happened...I didn't damage the board or anything when I took it out of the case, although I did notice that the PCB was warped a bit because of the big-ass Ven-X







. I'm really stumped here...I'm trying to install Win7 and it's just soooooooo slow...


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


QUESTION = Bios F4 Bios POST screen is missing _"DUAL BIOS"_ and _"ENERGY"_ logos. Are you guys suffering the same thing?


Not for me and I did the BIOS update two weeks ago.


----------



## G3RG

Apparently Gigabyte is now denying they have temp sensors other then the CPU and System temps.

Question:

Quote:



I need to know what the three temperature monitors on the motherboard correspond to. The attached file shows the three indicators I am referring to.

Thank you.


The attached file was just a screeny of speed fan and overdrive showing the 3 motherboard temp sensors.

Response:

Quote:



Dear Customer

We are unable to determine where the software is reading off from
Only CPU and System temperature are available which can be view under BIOS


***


----------



## Section-9

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Upgrade to BIOS F4 if have not already done so and/or uninstall EasyTune 6.


Uninstalling Easy Tune 6 (ET6) *fixed* my audio popping/noise problem.









+1 rep

I can finally relax and enjoy my new PC. Thanks.


----------



## decimator

I swapped out optical drives to try and solve my problem with terribly slow optical drive performance after I put my PC back together. I still get the same problem. So it's not the optical drive that's broken. I'm seriously stumped...


----------



## Lenthan

I tried to read over the thread and found it asked but could not find if anyone answered this or not.

Can you control fan speeds with speedfan on the UD5?

Thanks


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


I swapped out optical drives to try and solve my problem with terribly slow optical drive performance after I put my PC back together. I still get the same problem. So it's not the optical drive that's broken. I'm seriously stumped...


Solved my problem







. I took out my floppy drive when I took apart my PC because I realized I wasn't using it at all. I forgot to disable Floppy support in BIOS afterward. I think the Windows installation software checks for it when it's enabled and if it's not there eventually it times out, which was what was probably happening to me. Everything works like a charm now.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lenthan*


I tried to read over the thread and found it asked but could not find if anyone answered this or not.

Can you control fan speeds with speedfan on the UD5?

Thanks


I think fidof said he had no luck with Speedfan on this board. I haven't given it a shot yet.


----------



## Lenthan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Solved my problem







. I took out my floppy drive when I took apart my PC because I realized I wasn't using it at all. I forgot to disable Floppy support in BIOS afterward. I think the Windows installation software checks for it when it's enabled and if it's not there eventually it times out, which was what was probably happening to me. Everything works like a charm now.

I think fidof said he had no luck with Speedfan on this board. I haven't given it a shot yet.


Bummer, for some reason one of my system fans runs full blast all the time when the other one is throttled back to around 50%. I was hoping to be able to adjust them without using an external device.


----------



## decimator

Yeah, so I haven't been able to tweak my system some more because I was too busy being social and hanging out with girls







. Time for me to get back in my cave and start pushing this bad boy after I re-seated my heatsink. I found my old tube of AS5 and it looks like it dropped idle temps a couple degrees (haven't looked at load temps yet). I'll see what the temps are like after the AS5 cures.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

It's kind of late but







just wanted to show what the sislent pipe cooler looks like on the UD7

As I had the chance while changing paste because of high temps.


----------



## G3RG

I wonders if the ud7 waterblock/silent pipe cooler stuff fits on a ud5...

Edit: looking at pics...it looks as if it would =O

Anybody wanna sell me/give me their ud7 stock nb waterblock =D?


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

silent pipe will not but the waterblock maybe







if you have the same screws placement on the UD5 northbrige . it would be awesome though


----------



## G3RG

I was looking at it you'd have to switch out the entire heatpipe assembly, but I still think all the holes on the mb's line up, so I bet it'd work. The UD5 doesnt have that 2 part NB heatsink like the UD7 so you cant just screw the waterblock on.


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone know where the "official" went?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Anyone know where the "official" went?


I've PMed The Duke the following message:

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*

Why has this tread lost its [Official] status?

I've just returned from attending to a family emergency over the last few weeks to find that the [Official] GA-890FXA-UD5/UD7 Owners Thread/Club has been striped of its [Official] status and has been demoted to [Unofficial] without warning, cause, or explanation.

I've worked hard to build a useful and informative thread with an interactive member list and up-to-date, relevant content in the original post. Please, help me to understand what event has prompted this act of public humiliation.

I am offended on behalf of the community that has formed around this topic and has dedicated countless hours to researching and responding to queries over the last several months.

Please respond so that I may address the issue for the members.

Respectfully,
~Duncan


I hope that I will hear back soon so that I can answer your question.

My hope is that this has been an unfortunate misunderstanding and that it will be corrected post haste.

Until then, please know that I appreciate all of the hard work and dedication that you and the rest of our members have given to this thread.

In the event that this is not remedied, I do have a back-up plan.

I remain committed to you and the rest of our members.

Respectfully,
~Duncan (fidof650)


----------



## fidof650

It seems that The Duke hasn't been active for the last three days. I raised the issue with him because he was the one who awarded us the "Official" status.

I don't know if he is the admin who degraded us so, please don't let this reflect on him until we have the whole story.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Duke* 
It's "Official" fidof650
Keep up the good work on the thread









Does anyone have any suggestions for further escalating this concern?
I have already followed the "Contact Us" link and pasted the previous post with an introductory explanation.

Not knowing what objection the admin has with this thread has left me with no option but to archive its content. If for some reason it is deleted or locked I will make it available to all members via alternative venue.

If I am banned (can't imagine why I would be) I'll create a new account and PM all members the links for accessing the archive so that you are not deprived of this valuable resource.

Lets hope it doesn't come to this.

I remain committed to maintaining this remarkable body of work that you have all compiled here.

Thanks again for your dedication and support.


----------



## fidof650

P1 Updated:

New Members added

Links Updated

New Spreadsheet added for our member tested memory listing.

Keep up the good work!


----------



## hylong

I like to report back that the Crucial 4GB CT51272BA1339 is definitely not compatible with this board.
Is anyone on this thread is/are using 8Gb (2 X 4GB).I tried to look from the system sig. but was not able to locate any. My apologies if I missed your. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
I like to report back that the Crucial 4GB CT51272BA1339 is definitely not compatible with this board.
Is anyone on this thread is/are using 8Gb (2 X 4GB).I tried to look from the system sig. but was not able to locate any. My apologies if I missed your. Thanks in advance.

I am using 8GB, but it's 4x2GB so all 4 slots are full.

G.Skill ECO 1.35V CAS7.


----------



## Blitz6804

Like Metonymy, I am using 8 GB of the G.Skill Eco 1600 CL7. Mine are running at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T on 1.410 V.


----------



## G3RG

I think he might be looking for fellow crucial users. I'm only use 4 gb G.Skill Ripjaws...some of the best ram I've ever used...


----------



## hylong

I'm looking for any RAM with 8gb to fill 2 slots (that is working) on this motherboard. That leave me the availability to upgrade to 16 gb when my financial allow.


----------



## G3RG

Depending on your budget I'd get either of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-311-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-314-_-Product


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you try the Kingston from the QVL that I mentioned previously? It looks like the Kingston is only available as 3x4 GB and not 2x4 GB, unfortunately.


----------



## Shroomalistic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Like Metonymy, I am using 8 GB of the G.Skill Eco 1600 CL7. Mine are running at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T on 1.410 V.


now since you running a black processor, why arent you running your ram at 1600? Is there an advantage to running 1333 at 6-7-7 vs 1600 7-8-7?


----------



## hylong

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G3RG*


Depending on your budget I'd get either of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-311-_-Product
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-314-_-Product


Thanks for the links. I look at all the comments but none of them stating that their mobo is GA-890FXA-UD5. I also send the request to Gigabyte support to see if these 2 are compatible. In addition, I could not locate this mobo from G. Skill RAM configuration web site.


----------



## hylong

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Did you try the Kingston from the QVL that I mentioned previously? It looks like the Kingston is only available as 3x4 GB and not 2x4 GB, unfortunately.


This RAM was on the Gigabyte compatibility list. It support triple channels, so I ruled it out. I also send this Kingston KVR1333D3N9K2/8G to gigabyte support and waiting for their reply.


----------



## G3RG

I have the 2x2gb version of that ram and newegg has it listed under dual channel, I'm sure it would work fine and if it didn't newegg would take it back no problem.


----------



## hylong

So.... I'm gathering nobody's running 8gb with 2 slots. For me it make perfectly sensible to run 8gb and leave room for upgrade. For video editing and rendering in HD would really benefit the maximum RAM support from the mobo. That's just me.


----------



## hylong

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G3RG*


I have the 2x2gb version of that ram and newegg has it listed under dual channel, I'm sure it would work fine and if it didn't newegg would take it back no problem.


I got nailed twice (each time there is a 5% restocking fee, because I couldn't get it to post in CMOS screen) The mobo and CPU is working fine with other RAM (2 x2gb of OCZ, Kingston, and Crucial, etc...)


----------



## G3RG

Well there has to be somebody somewhere who has used 2x4gb ram with a phenom x6...I personally don't know of anybody though.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, unless the product is broken, Newegg hits you for a restock fee. I bought something that Newegg mislabeled. Because it did not do as advertised, I tried to return it and Newegg hit me with a restock. After yelling at a few, they waived the fee.


----------



## G3RG

with a bit of "unhappy customer voice" you can get quite a bit outa newegg lol


----------



## decimator

Damn these ambient temps...







. Can't stress 4GHz without breaking 55*C...


----------



## xcooling

NB @ 2Ghz vs NB @ 3Ghz










http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mem...-memory_3.html


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xcooling* 
NB @ 2Ghz vs NB @ 3Ghz










http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mem...-memory_3.html

If this was done with memory at 2000MHz with CAS latency of 8 or 7, you'd see a much bigger difference. Everybody knows that raising the NB freq alone won't net you a huge gain in performance. That article is pretty worthless.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shroomalistic* 
now since you running a black processor, why arent you running your ram at 1600? Is there an advantage to running 1333 at 6-7-7 vs 1600 7-8-7?

Because my RAM did not want to do DDR3-1600 with eight gigs, at least, not via my current HTT. As I did not want to be bothered actually properly overclocking my processor (something I have yet to do) I just decreased my multiplier and tightened timings up. It is almost as fast as DDR3-1666. It likely would be about the same or slightly better than DDR3-1666.

4 GB at DDR3-1666 7-9-9-24-1T-40, CPU at 4.0 GHz, NB at 2.75 GHz:









8 GB at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T-20; everything else identical (only the memory divider and timings changed):


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I just received the RMA'd board back...no service tag, nothing obviously changed on the board, nothing. Although the RAM lock tabs were all open, so I'm guessing they tested the RAM (or at least held the board and played with them). I'll go home and post back if I still get the BSOD...given the issues I had before, I'm expecting to have to send this back to Gigabyte again to have it replaced with a new board.


----------



## Shroomalistic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Because my RAM did not want to do DDR3-1600 with eight gigs, at least, not via my current HTT. As I did not want to be bothered actually properly overclocking my processor (something I have yet to do) I just decreased my multiplier and tightened timings up. It is almost as fast as DDR3-1666. It likely would be about the same or slightly better than DDR3-1666.

4 GB at DDR3-1666 7-9-9-24-1T-40, CPU at 4.0 GHz, NB at 2.75 GHz:









8 GB at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T-20; everything else identical (only the memory divider and timings changed):










now I want to test mine at 1333. I was able to get my 8gb set to run at 1600 7-8-6-20-40 1t. Wondering if I could get any faster at 1333 with titghter timings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Of course, your mileage may vary. I am sure I am going to have better results whenever I actually sit down and start overclocking properly. All I did was increase the HTT and drop my RAM multiplier. In a perfect world, I would start playing with the CPU multiplier to.

For those with the G.Skill Eco: Am I the only one who cannot use the DDR3-800 (4x) divider? I fail to POST so equipped. (And instead, am currently using DDR3-1066 (5.33x).)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
I just received the RMA'd board back...no service tag, nothing obviously changed on the board, nothing. Although the RAM lock tabs were all open, so I'm guessing they tested the RAM (or at least held the board and played with them). I'll go home and post back if I still get the BSOD...given the issues I had before, I'm expecting to have to send this back to Gigabyte again to have it replaced with a new board.

Update: The first half of my lunch was assembling and getting BSOD out of the board (now giving NTFS errors when the hard drive is known to be just fine...so says spinrite testing). The second half was me on the phone with Gigabyte support. The RMA guy didn't know jack, transferred me to tech support. I let tech support know I'd tried another motherboard without issue, and about the hard drive read issue...he issued a new RMA, shipping label, and told me all they can do is replace it with a new motherboard...which is fine by me. I'm really hoping this turns out. At least I'm not about to swear off Gigabyte boards. We'll see how this pans out in a couple weeks, once I receive the (hopefully) new board.


----------



## Blostorm

What are the readings TMPIN1 2 3?


----------



## decimator

TMPIN0 = system temp
TMPIN1 = CPU temp
TMPIN2 = NB temp


----------



## Blostorm

CPU being CPU =/= cores right ?


----------



## fid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
I'm really hoping this turns out. At least I'm not about to swear off Gigabyte boards. We'll see how this pans out in a couple weeks...

Unexploded, I've been following throughout. I've hated reading the delay this has caused you. It can happen to anyone and any vendor but there has to be a better way. Most of us have experienced this one way or the other. At least with some hard-drives companies, they can offer (with credit-card) advanced replacement. Why can't mobo manufacturers do something similar?

I guess no one cares about brand loyalty...

Hang in there.


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
So.... I'm gathering nobody's running 8gb with 2 slots. For me it make perfectly sensible to run 8gb and leave room for upgrade. For video editing and rendering in HD would really benefit the maximum RAM support from the mobo. That's just me.

Check my system, I'm using GSkill Ripjaw 8Gb 2 slots, going to update to 16gb for later as well


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lngu81* 
Check my system, I'm using GSkill Ripjaw 8Gb 2 slots, going to update to 16gb for later as well

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll be picking up these today.


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
Well there has to be somebody somewhere who has used 2x4gb ram with a phenom x6...I personally don't know of anybody though.

Thanks to Ingu81, I'll be heading to the retailer after work today.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Hey all, about to set up my first RAID 0 array on this board, and I have a question...

I am going to be using 2x1tb samsung f3 hdd's and short stroking them

but the question is, should i connect them to the GSATA 3.0gbps or the SATA 6.0gbps ports? I thought i read somewhere that i could see perofrmance issues if i use the sata 6.0gbps ports for slower drives?


----------



## fidof650

We are *Official* again!!!

Thank you Tator Tot for resolving this issue for us!

~fidof650


----------



## I_Claudius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
In any event, I am curious how the Thermaltake turns out, I have never used one of their heatsinks. (Even if they are the only case manufacturer I have bought.)

The Thermaltake ISGC-200 looks like it is ideal CPU cooler for the narrow confines of the GA-980FXA-UD5 whose CPU socket is very close to the DIMM slots, which only allows for coolers whose width is less than 10cm. I think there is about 1cm of clearance between the heatsink and the DDR3 modules










Although the Thermaltake is not as impressive as the Prolimatech Megahalem, I think it works well if overclocking is not your primary objective.










So far it is running very quietly which is my primary concern. Only time will tell if it provides the a cooling solution as promising as its good looks.


----------



## I_Claudius

Mispost


----------



## klaxian

So what is the consensus on the F4 BIOS for the UD5? I did a search and it seems like most folks have had good luck with it, but some may have had issues. Should everyone consider upgrading, especially to drop voltage?


----------



## fidof650

The left (away from the memory) side of the cooler looks bent away from the CPU fan.

Is it just the camera or is the heat exchanger being sucked out of the case by the exhaust fan?

And where can I get that fan!!!

~fidof650


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


So what is the consensus on the F4 BIOS for the UD5? I did a search and it seems like most folks have had good luck with it, but some may have had issues. Should everyone consider upgrading, especially to drop voltage?


Inquiring minds want to know!

I want to know!

Really, I've been holding off on the update but my curiosity has been peaked!

~fidof650


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

FAQ format added. Please submit your suggestions for FAQ. 
(This requires that you also have the answer







)

~fidof650


----------



## G3RG

So I took off the NB Cooler on my UD5 and it does seem that the heatsink is in two parts and that the UD7 waterblock MIGHT fit, depending on how they're attached. On the UD5 the fins are attached to the base by 2 screws coming up from the bottom. How are they attached on the UD7?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
So I took off the NB Cooler on my UD5 and it does seem that the heatsink is in two parts and that the UD7 waterblock MIGHT fit, depending on how they're attached. On the UD5 the fins are attached to the base by 2 screws coming up from the bottom. How are they attached on the UD7?

pics?


----------



## G3RG

ya 1 sec.


----------



## Shroomalistic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
Hey all, about to set up my first RAID 0 array on this board, and I have a question...

I am going to be using 2x1tb samsung f3 hdd's and short stroking them

but the question is, should i connect them to the GSATA 3.0gbps or the SATA 6.0gbps ports? I thought i read somewhere that i could see perofrmance issues if i use the sata 6.0gbps ports for slower drives?

The gigaraid maxes out at around 160 write and 180 read. Unless its really necessary, stay away from it. its good if your running a couple standard drives in ahci but bad for raid. Ive had no issues with my v-raptors in raid 0 on the sb850 controller. there also short stroked.


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
So what is the consensus on the F4 BIOS for the UD5? I did a search and it seems like most folks have had good luck with it, but some may have had issues. Should everyone consider upgrading, especially to drop voltage?

I have alot of issues with F4, may I'm the unlucky one.

- Fried 1090t cpu after update to F4 with fail safe setting, I can't tell for sure due to F4 update or not.
- I can't overclock with the same old setting as I did with F3. BSOD was a norm for with F4
- The Bios and Energy Logos are missing at POST.
It's seem like my F4 doesn't like my G.Skill Ripjaw 8gb ram


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lngu81* 
I have alot of issues with F4, may I'm the unlucky one.

- Fried 1090t cpu after update to F4 with fail safe setting, I can't tell for sure due to F4 update or not.
- I can't overclock with the same old setting as I did with F3. BSOD was a norm for with F4
- The Bios and Energy Logos are missing at POST.
It's seem like my F4 doesn't like my G.Skill Ripjaw 8gb ram

Anyone else having issues with F4? If there are enough common problems I'd like to post them on P1.
Please also list success for a comparison.

~fidof650


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
ya 1 sec.


















Looks like it could work. Has anyone removed the NB water block from a UD7?

Has anyone checked with Gigabyte so see if the water block can be purchased separately for use on the UD5?


----------



## G3RG

page 134 =)

But I'd like pics of the screws on the ud7 before I attempted anything lol


----------



## Velathawen

Concerning removal of the NB heatsink, is there anything else to remove aside from the 2 screws? I don't want to damage the heatsink pulling too hard >_<

Concerning the F4 bios on UD5, I would like to report no problems and folding stable at 287x14 @ 1.475v. However, I have noticed that I tend to BSOD folding whenever NB speeds are around 2400-2600 at 1.31v whereas previously with my F4D bios I had no such issues with the same speeds and voltages. Logo also displays properly, although it takes a bit to detect my SATA devices.


----------



## ninelives

I have a question about overclocking the phenom II x6 1090T BE on 890fxa-ud5 rev 2.0 - *Bios version: F4*
I can only overclock mine to a stable 3.8ghz @ 28Â°C idle, 40*Â°C load.

The problem is i couldn't get a stable clock past 3.8ghz. I'm sure it's not a temp issue since @ 3.8 ghz it's just on 40Â°C LOAD(core temp) with prime95 and amd overdrive.

I could get to 4.2ghz with an overvolt of 1.55v, but once i run prime95 or AMD overdrive, i get bSOD's. I forgot what the errors were though.

Queston: Could it be my power supply that's limiting me? my power supply is a silverstone st50f-230 500 watts, which isn't 80+. Should I get a higher psu?

*As of right now these are my stable settings:*
3.8ghz 1.4v
Turbo mode disabled, c1e support and cool n quiet disabled.
225 mhz bus speed and multiplier is x18.
NB and HT frequency @ 2025 mhz.

@4.0, 4.1 and 4.2 ghz tried 1.45v - 1.6v none of them is stable.
tried lowering the NB and HT still the same. Tried to reset the memory to it's default setting 9-9-9-24-2T with 1600, it's still the same.

EDIT: Well after reading some posts here, seems like it's the F4 bios version which is the culprit.

*EDIT:* Tried reflashing back to F3, still the same. It isn't the bios version then. What could it be?


----------



## G3RG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Velathawen*


Concerning removal of the NB heatsink, is there anything else to remove aside from the 2 screws? I don't want to damage the heatsink pulling too hard >_<

Concerning the F4 bios on UD5, I would like to report no problems and folding stable at 287x14 @ 1.475v. However, I have noticed that I tend to BSOD folding whenever NB speeds are around 2400-2600 at 1.31v whereas previously with my F4D bios I had no such issues with the same speeds and voltages. Logo also displays properly, although it takes a bit to detect my SATA devices.


You take the heatsink off by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the motherboard then use pliers to pop the little white plastic tabs. Squeeze it so it compresses and can pop through the motherboard...I have never seen such an easy NB heatsink removal lol.


----------



## fidof650

OK guys, Ive got a head scratcher for ya.

I've been getting a popping sound in my audio as well as intermittent dips in audio output as though it gets partially muted for a half second.

I have it hooked up to my receiver via the optical audio output just as it has been for months. It started while running the F3 BIOS (not immediately but a few weeks after the update).

Easy Tune is not installed (or if it is I can't find it in the program manager to uninstall it).

I tried updating the Audio driver but that caused me to loose sound completely. The manager identified HDMI audio even though the Optical cable is hooked up (not HDMI). I also had an analog mic plugged into the front panel which was not identified either under the updated driver so I did a system restore and got back to where I started.

I updated to the F4 BIOS tonight and that did not fix it.

When I plug headphones into the front panel jack I get clear sound with no popping or dips.

Any suggestions?


----------



## fidof650

:::Update:::
When I connected via coaxel digital cable to the sterio the popping went away. I can wiggle the optical cable in the jack on the motherboard and reproduce the popping and the dips. Therefore it must be either a bad jack or a bad cable.

I'll try a new cable tomorrow to eliminate it as the problem before calling Gigabyte.

Anyone else have this problem?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


:::Update:::
When I connected via coaxel digital cable to the sterio the popping went away. I can wiggle the optical cable in the jack on the motherboard and reproduce the popping and the dips. Therefore it must be either a bad jack or a bad cable.

I'll try a new cable tomorrow to eliminate it as the problem before calling Gigabyte.

Anyone else have this problem?


Sorry man, can't say that I am. I'm using the HDMI out on my gfx card to run to my home theater system and then to my TV. I haven't used any of the component audio except for the ports on the front of my case which are connected to the HD 97 pinset back by the northbridge.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


The left (away from the memory) side of the cooler looks bent away from the CPU fan.

Is it just the camera or is the heat exchanger being sucked out of the case by the exhaust fan?

And where can I get that fan!!!

~fidof650



Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Inquiring minds want to know!

I want to know!

Really, I've been holding off on the update but my curiosity has been peaked!

~fidof650


I am on F4 and was actually able to drop my CPU overvolt from 1.525 to 1.50 (1.495). Re-ran in Prime95 and LinX and still stable as a rock.


----------



## erikpfeiffer15

So I just built my first computer, and I was up and running for about two hours with updated drivers, etc, when in the middle of a game my video and audio froze, and then about 20 seconds later my screen went dark while the audio continued to be frozen at the same spot. I hit reset, and now I can't get past the mobo loading screen (can't post?). It also will not allow me to choose bios or boot options - no input works.

I tried removing one of my gpus, tried each by themselves in first one then the other pcie16 ports, removed one stick of ram and swapped ports for that as well, tried disconnecting hdd. All the things a noob like me could think of :/ So now I'm thinking it's a problem with the cpu or the mobo. Sadly I did not feel the zalman cpu cooler to tell whether it was cool and the cpu overheated. Anyone else have a problem with not being able to get past the mobo load screen? Thanks guys.

-Erik


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *erikpfeiffer15* 
So I just built my first computer, and I was up and running for about two hours with updated drivers, etc, when in the middle of a game my video and audio froze, and then about 20 seconds later my screen went dark while the audio continued to be frozen at the same spot. I hit reset, and now I can't get past the mobo loading screen (can't post?). It also will not allow me to choose bios or boot options - no input works.

I tried removing one of my gpus, tried each by themselves in first one then the other pcie16 ports, removed one stick of ram and swapped ports for that as well, tried disconnecting hdd. All the things a noob like me could think of :/ So now I'm thinking it's a problem with the cpu or the mobo. Sadly I did not feel the zalman cpu cooler to tell whether it was cool and the cpu overheated. Anyone else have a problem with not being able to get past the mobo load screen? Thanks guys.

-Erik

Step one: Unplug the powersupply

Step two: Press and hold the power button for 30 seconds then check your system for loose connections, loose screws, or other objects rolling around inside your case (don't laugh, I've seen people fry systems with lost screws more than once), and make sure everything is where it is supposed to be and securely fastened.

Step three: Press and hold the Clear CMOS button for five seconds

Step four: Plug in a keyboard via ps/2 jack in back panel

Step five: Plug in power and reboot the system

Step six: While system is rebooting, tap the "delete" key and see if you can get into BIOS.

Step seven: Select "Load Optimized Settings" ==> press F10 ==> select Y to reboot.

Step Eight: Post here with your results thus far (hopefully you will have booted into the OS)


----------



## erikpfeiffer15

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 
Step one: Unplug the powersupply

Step two: Press and hold the power button for 30 seconds then check your system for loose connections, loose screws, or other objects rolling around inside your case (don't laugh, I've seen people fry systems with lost screws more than once), and make sure everything is where it is supposed to be and securely fastened.

Step three: Press and hold the Clear CMOS button for five seconds

Step four: Plug in a keyboard via ps/2 jack in back panel

Step five: Plug in power and reboot the system

Step six: While system is rebooting, tap the "delete" key and see if you can get into BIOS.

Step seven: Select "Load Optimized Settings" ==> press F10 ==> select Y to reboot.

Step Eight: Post here with your results thus far (hopefully you will have booted into the OS)

Clearing the CMOS did the trick! At least with most of the parts still unconnected. Thank you for the advice! Can you shed any enlightenment on why the problem might have occurred in the first place? Will this be a reoccurring event? I checked for any loose parts which may have tripped the CMOS but it was clean. Thanks again.


----------



## Blitz6804

Sometimes if a system is overclocked a touch too far, it will cause an error in the CMOS. Dumping it and returning to defaults will remove this.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lngu81* 
I have alot of issues with F4, may I'm the unlucky one.

- Fried 1090t cpu after update to F4 with fail safe setting, I can't tell for sure due to F4 update or not.
- I can't overclock with the same old setting as I did with F3. BSOD was a norm for with F4
- The Bios and Energy Logos are missing at POST.
It's seem like my F4 doesn't like my G.Skill Ripjaw 8gb ram

I have the same bad luck with F4 as well with my cpu overclock, so I reverted back to F3 (hopes that this isnt a new trend with newer releases)


----------



## decimator

Looks like I've found my 24/7 stable overclock for the summer. Can't wait until these stupid high ambients die down so I can push further...


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Looks like I've found my 24/7 stable overclock for the summer. Can't wait until these stupid high ambients die down so I can push further...










consider your core temp is very high for 3.9 at max, while your min is on average. I think you should look at your airflow and cooling


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


consider your core temp is very high for 3.9 at max, while your min is on average. I think you should look at your airflow and cooling


My cooling is fine. It's a Venomous X with a 150 CFM Delta fan and AS5 (hasn't fully cured yet so that may be why temps are so high). Anyway, it only hit 54*C on a couple of passes and topped out at 51*C for the rest. Like I said, these ambients really suck. It's the middle of summer and the air conditioning isn't always on because I'm trying to save money. Even though I could, I'd rather not push this CPU farther in this heat as I plan on selling it once Bulldozer comes out and I don't want there to be any degradation.

Also, my chip isn't as good as yours. I need 1.45 vcore for 4GHz while you only need 1.425 for that speed. I need 1.425 just for 3.9GHz







.


----------



## lngu81

good point waiting for bulldozer, I'm in mid of winter, my room ambient is around 19C, my idle core temp is 23C (same as you) while loaded at 44C running prime95. I have total of 7 fans, 5 push and 2 pull. We both on the same volt. your max temp should be very much same as mine. The ambient temp does not make much different to max temp if your airflow is sufficent.


----------



## lngu81

also my NB temp is exactly like your lol


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lngu81*


good point waiting for bulldozer, I'm in mid of winter, my room ambient is around 19C, my idle core temp is 23C (same as you) while loaded at 44C running prime95. I have total of 7 fans, 5 push and 2 pull. We both on the same volt. your max temp should be very much same as mine. The ambient temp does not make much different to max temp if your airflow is sufficent.


Well, my case doesn't allow for 7 case fans. There's one intake fan, one exhaust fan, and another two intake ports in the top of the case (of which only one has a fan). Add the CPU fan (my cooler didn't come with fan clips for a push-pull setup), and that makes 4 fans total.


----------



## shaddix

Ordered a ud5+1055t last night. Switching over from the intel camp :>!
Not looking forward to reading this 140 page thread though ._.;;

Ok read most of it, first question:
I have about a half a tube of MX-3 which I'm gonna try to not use on the H50. Should I go ahead and pop the NB heatsink off and put the MX-3 on? It covers NB SB and VRMs right? Would that be easy to apply or not worth the hassle?

my room temp is usually 75f or 24c


----------



## UnexplodedCow

The VRMs have the obligatory white rubber strip to help with contact. They don't need thermal grease, but a metal shim would be nice. The North and south bridge chips, however, will work fine. Just keep in mind the stock paste is like toothpaste, and I had to scrape mine off with an Xacto knife.


----------



## G3RG

may as well wait and see if your temps are bad tbh, I put some ocz freeze on my nb and I really didnt see any measurably difference, I mean it may have dropped temps a degree or 2 but overall didnt help


----------



## shaddix

Thanks for the tips!


----------



## sgr215

Just got my board and 4GB of G.Skill ECO 1600 CL7 memory.









I'm out of cable ties so I'm going to pick some up later today before I start rebuilding my rig. If anyone cares I ordered this from Newegg on Friday and it's rev 2.0.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgr215*


Just got my board and 4GB of G.Skill ECO 1600 CL7 memory.









I'm out of cable ties so I'm going to pick some up later today before I start rebuilding my rig. If anyone cares I ordered this from Newegg on Friday and it's rev 2.0.


Very nice! You're going to love it.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sgr215*


Just got my board and 4GB of G.Skill ECO 1600 CL7 memory.










I'd love to hear how you make out with it. I have heard good thing about that RAM so far. Unfortunately, I'm not sure that it would make enough of an improvement for me to upgrade.


----------



## G3RG

Has anybody here watercooled their UD5?


----------



## sgr215

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
I'd love to hear how you make out with it. I have heard good thing about that RAM so far. Unfortunately, I'm not sure that it would make enough of an improvement for me to upgrade.

So far, so good. Judging by everything I've read I thought I'd have to run them at CL8 or underclock them to get CL7. To my surprise they are running flawlessly at 1600 7-8-7-24-2N @ 1.4v. So far I've done 5 passes of Memtest and 1 hour of Prime95 blend with no issues.

I haven't gotten around to overclocking my CPU just yet, I just wanted to make sure everything was stable at stock first. It was previously clocked at 3.8Ghz on a crappy AM2+ board though. I'm really hoping to hit 4ghz with a nice NB OC to match.


----------



## M0nk

Long time browser, first time poster...

Just built my new Rig - Almost complete, waiting on GPU!!
This thread helped me decide to go with the GA-890FXA-UD5 so Thank You!








I freaking love this MOBO .. oh I got REV 2.0 BTW and first thing I did was update to F3. Cant wait to get my 5770 Vapor-x and a new CPU cooler (undecided) and start pushing this new system to see what it can do. Need to decide on a CPU cooler... something that will fit in this case nicely.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
I'd love to hear how you make out with it.

Very carefully, I would imagine







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian*
I have heard good thing about that RAM so far. Unfortunately, I'm not sure that it would make enough of an improvement for me to upgrade.

Excellent RAM. Will do 6-6-6-20-1T @ 1333Mhz and at least 1800Mhz @ 9-9-9-30-1T. I haven't yet fiddled with it @ 1800, just set it at those timings with no probs.


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M0nk* 
Long time browser, first time poster...

Just built my new Rig - Almost complete, waiting on GPU!!
This thread helped me decide to go with the GA-890FXA-UD5 so Thank You!








I freaking love this MOBO .. oh I got REV 2.0 BTW and first thing I did was update to F3. Cant wait to get my 5770 Vapor-x and a new CPU cooler (undecided) and start pushing this new system to see what it can do. Need to decide on a CPU cooler... something that will fit in this case nicely.

use noctua, like in my system or a D14 then you are chilled for a very long time








BTW F3 is good, update to F4 with caution, but F4 seem to work well with your CPU. Some good feedback from F4 users with the same CPU as you


----------



## shaddix

h50: Scheduled Delivery Date:08/18/2010
mobo+ram: Scheduled Delivery Date:08/18/2010
cpu: Scheduled Delivery Date:08/20/2010

damnit >_<!


----------



## M0nk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lngu81* 
use noctua, like in my system or a D14 then you are chilled for a very long time








BTW F3 is good, update to F4 with caution, but F4 seem to work well with your CPU. Some good feedback from F4 users with the same CPU as you

Thanks for the tips,
Have been looking at Noctua, scythe and the like.. Decided to stick with F3 for now at least until I have a complete system to be able to toy with and maybe then I will look at F4. As you say some people with 955 have had success with the F4. I'm not sure yet whether I am going to try to push this system to its limits or maybe just aim for a nice stable gaming rig. either way I want the thing to stay as cool as possible.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M0nk* 
Thanks for the tips,
Have been looking at Noctua, scythe and the like.. Decided to stick with F3 for now at least until I have a complete system to be able to toy with and maybe then I will look at F4. As you say some people with 955 have had success with the F4. I'm not sure yet whether I am going to try to push this system to its limits or maybe just aim for a nice stable gaming rig. either way I want the thing to stay as cool as possible.









I'll also suggest Noctua and Zalman. I've had very good experiences with both, but I think Noctua is a bit better; it definitely shows in the price! I'm still leery of self-contained water coolers so far.


----------



## M0nk

Looking at the Zalman CNPS10X looks like decent cooling and this is only with the single fan. Just wonder if it would fit on the UD5 with RIPJAWS installed...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Excellent RAM. Will do 6-6-6-20-1T @ 1333Mhz and at least 1800Mhz @ 9-9-9-30-1T. I haven't yet fiddled with it @ 1800, just set it at those timings with no probs.


Mine does not want to do 6-6-6. However, mine does 6-7-7-18-1T-20 no problem.


----------



## polynomialc

crunchie,

what voltage are you using to get 6-6-6-20-1T @ 1333Mhz? i tried with my set of eco's, but failed. Its stable with the same settings blitz uses 6-7-7-18-1T-20 at 1.41 4gb here


----------



## crunchie

1.41 volt.
I'm at work atm so cannot verify.
Attachment 168655
Home now. Just done a quick 15 minutes of 64bit Prime95 on blend, 1342Mhz 6-6-6-20-1T @ 1.41 volt.
Ok, I know I haven't run Prime for 24 hours, but meh







.

If you want me to run it longer, give us a hoy. Will have to be over the weekend though.


----------



## TheMasterPC

Hi to all ud7 owners,

So I'm wondering what's happening with GIGABYTE,they don't support very well the UD7.

And I don't know why the UD7 doesn't have a separate thread,because the UD5 user will increase this thread to over 500 posts,I bet this,till December.

The reason of telling this is the hardness of finding exactly informations about the board.

So what I think about the board:

CONS

1. Poor BIOS support
2. Is not letting the user to use any multiplier above 14x







(I have the 1055T,so it's obivious,but if the 14.5 -15 multiplier is available why is not showing in CPU-Z)
3. Advanced features not explained (S850 spread spectrum)
4. BIOS UPDATE will work only if you put the USB-stick in the USB black ports ( first RJ-45 LAN,I don't remember correctly but I think that first boot device was the HDD and set USB-ZIP the Floppy)
5. SILENT PIPE construction is a bit let's call it weak but overall it does the job,one pipe moved when I installed the motherboard,maybe because of the tiny screw from that blue support.

And what a heck,rev 2.1 with memory support to 2000 Mhz ,ohhh man .... now I saw it on the gigabyte site.







(


----------



## Blitz6804

TheMasterPC:

(1) You have a small-volume product, it will happen.
(2) You have a 1055T, your highest multiplier is 14x. With Turbo, it can bump up to a maximum of 16.5x.
(3) Spread spectrum intentionally fluctuates voltages on the named part to reduce the buildup of EMI. If someone who uses the computer regularly has a pace maker or similar equipment, this should be enabled. Else, you can usually overclock slightly higher with it off.
(4) On the UD5s, you can update through Windows without difficulty. I have found if I want to boot to the USB drive, I have to tell it that it is a USB hard drive, and can boot to it as such from any USB port. (Again, talking the UD5s here.)
(5) That might have just rattled loose in shipping, tighten it back down, and you are good to go.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *M0nk*


Looking at the Zalman CNPS10X looks like decent cooling and this is only with the single fan. Just wonder if it would fit on the UD5 with RIPJAWS installed...


Mostly I've noticed taller RAM (ripjaws included) tower coolers are going to become an issue. I went with a pancake heatsink (Noctua) due to clearance issues in my case: specifically I'm lacking about 6mm to install a tower heatsink due to a side fan being located directly "above" the CPU area. Gskill Pi series, Corsair Dominator, and even RipJaws would have a problem anyway for fan clearance.

I used to run a Zalman 9700, and it worked well, with just enough clearance, but was a touch too loud, as it had to run full open to keep the old 965 cool (C2 revision). I switched to the Noctua in my signature, and it cooled better, but I had to remove the spine heatsinks on the Corsair RAM I run (had Gskill Pi I even traded for the Corsair). Another good Zalman is the 9900, as it's notably quieter than the 9700.

A secondary option might be to install the fan in a "pull" configuration with a tower. Apologies for the wordy reply.


----------



## Blitz6804

The Noctua C12P is a pretty decent cooler. I had used it between my Thermalright SI-128 and my Mega Shadow. It is currently used on my sister's 965.


----------



## M0nk

Great information Unexploded thank you. I am definitely tossing up between the CNPS10X and the 9900, I think I am leaning toward the 9900 moreso as I prefer the look/style of it as well as it seems as though it will have plenty of room on the board. The tower design of the 10X allows the option of adding an extra fan if I need it to run cooler but I am hoping the 9900 will provide enough cooling with the stock design. Buying them here in Aus on ebay the prices are fairly similar so I am really undecided.


----------



## G3RG

If you're worried about space on the motherboard and want amazing performance go for the h50...its easily in the top 3 of "all-in one" coolers


----------



## shaddix

board arrived today from newegg. 2.0 rev. Cpu won't be here til monday ._.;
Already have h50 backplate on though ^_^


----------



## cliveneo

Anyone try the new bios yet?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cliveneo*


Anyone try the new bios yet?


Say wha..?









I'm so out of the loop







. Stupid job...

EDIT: You meant the F4 BIOS, didn't you? I thought you meant a newer BIOS. Well, I'm using F4 and it's been fine for me so far. I didn't overclock with F3 BIOS so I have nothing to compare it to, though.


----------



## cliveneo

I have the F2 never really had any issues other than a minor one. Just wondering if there were any gains or resolves? the minor issue i have is with disabling turbo core. messes with core zero drops it to 800 if i disable it. to balance out i just set turbo core to the same speed as my OC.

would be easier to disable turbo so i can have direct voltage control of the cpu instead of adding to the 1.3 stock wit turbo enabled.

anyone notice this with F2 or newer?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cliveneo*


I have the F2 never really had any issues other than a minor one. Just wondering if there were any gains or resolves? the minor issue i have is with disabling turbo core. messes with core zero drops it to 800 if i disable it. to balance out i just set turbo core to the same speed as my OC.

would be easier to disable turbo so i can have direct voltage control of the cpu instead of adding to the 1.3 stock wit turbo enabled.

anyone notice this with F2 or newer?


I'm pretty certain that F3 fixed this.


----------



## cliveneo

Ok ill give it a go


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not yet tried F4. This is because I have no complaints with F3 (I do not use on-board audio nor EasyTune6) and have had no reason to try F4. F1 was terrible and F2 was "meh."


----------



## M0nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G3RG*


If you're worried about space on the motherboard and want amazing performance go for the h50...its easily in the top 3 of "all-in one" coolers


Damn you... why did you introduce me to the H50. Now all I can think of is reasons to justify spending twice as much on this thing. To get the Zalman 10X Performa here is about $65.00 Aus and the 9900 is around the same price. However to get the H50 I am looking at minimum $130.00 Aus. Can any of you guys who currently own or have owned a H50 attest to it being worth the extra cash? Also have read about the whole sucking warm air into the case fiasco with the H50 .. Given that I have a 140mm exhaust directly above where this would be mounted in my case I think this would have no real effect on the over all efficiency of the system (airflow and cooling). I really want to go with the H50 but am wondering whether DOUBLE the price is justified by the performance?


----------



## Blitz6804

My friend swears by his H50. He has it being used as an intake. His x4 940 ran cooler than my x4 940 with a Push-Pull Mega Shadow in cooler ambient. Take that how you will.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Verified!

Stable. Its a small overclock. Even with that overclock, on air, with Prime I hit 60*C. I may have a air flow issue.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285*




Verified!


I saw that 800MHz validation







.


----------



## tt335i

Can someone help a new guy out? What's the best bios settings for this mobo (UD5) with the 1090t? My stuff is arriving tomorrow and I'm wondering how I should set up the bios. Thanks very much.
Also would these ram work? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227584 . Thanks again.


----------



## G3RG

Most people would recommend G.Skill ram over OCZ ram. I'd look at G.Skill Eco or G.Skill Ripjaws ram.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I saw that 800MHz validation







.

CnC was still on...


----------



## Blitz6804

tt335i: I have had the best luck with F3. I have not yet tried F4 however.


----------



## crunchie

Nothing wrong with F3 but have seen some problems with F4, so I'm not game to try them







.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M0nk* 
Damn you... why did you introduce me to the H50. Now all I can think of is reasons to justify spending twice as much on this thing. To get the Zalman 10X Performa here is about $65.00 Aus and the 9900 is around the same price. However to get the H50 I am looking at minimum $130.00 Aus. Can any of you guys who currently own or have owned a H50 attest to it being worth the extra cash? Also have read about the whole sucking warm air into the case fiasco with the H50 .. Given that I have a 140mm exhaust directly above where this would be mounted in my case I think this would have no real effect on the over all efficiency of the system (airflow and cooling). I really want to go with the H50 but am wondering whether DOUBLE the price is justified by the performance?

I'm still leery of all-in-one liquid coolers as they will be more prone to problems by design. Yes, pump technology has improved over the years, but these things do have a lifespan, albeit a specified long one. I'd still go with a good heatpipe cooler, as I have yet to see a heatpipe fail over the years. The fans on them can also be upgraded just the same as the H50. But, if the H50 is twice the price, I will jump out and say it isn't worth it. Maybe you could build your own water cooling setup (small pump, single fan radiator, no reservoir for closed loop) for about the same price. Is the H50 (as stock) twice as good as a Zalman or Noctua. No. But I'm not going to deny that it will outperform most things. Also...the H70 is out, but it's far more expensive, and doesn't cool much better from the reviews I've read. More food for thought.


----------



## tt335i

thanks for the replies. What bios settings should I have though? Like those unlock and stuff? Thanks.


----------



## christoph

Hi guys.

I've just bought this motherboard (GA-890FXA-UD5 F4 v2.0) with the 1055T

My ram is running at 2000 MHz, CPU at 3000 MHz and NB at 2500 MHz

the thing is that in the bios won't take the voltage I enter for the cpu-cpuNB

it does for the RAM

but I can change the voltage of the cpu under AMD overdrive and this is how I have it stable since my ram is running at 2000 and the CPU-NB at 2500

Anyway, I was reading the post and didn't find anything about this, Am I the only one with this problem?

and now that I'm already here, is there any post/guide about every setting in the bios? there's the manual I know but it does not explain what the options exactly do change


----------



## christoph

come on guys

no one?


----------



## crunchie

I haven't got the F4 bios but maybe try saving the settings to a profile in BIOS and see if it sticks?


----------



## shaddix

put F3 on it, F4 is supposed to suck.


----------



## M0nk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
I'm still leery of all-in-one liquid coolers as they will be more prone to problems by design. Yes, pump technology has improved over the years, but these things do have a lifespan, albeit a specified long one. I'd still go with a good heatpipe cooler, as I have yet to see a heatpipe fail over the years. The fans on them can also be upgraded just the same as the H50. But, if the H50 is twice the price, I will jump out and say it isn't worth it. Maybe you could build your own water cooling setup (small pump, single fan radiator, no reservoir for closed loop) for about the same price. Is the H50 (as stock) twice as good as a Zalman or Noctua. No. But I'm not going to deny that it will outperform most things. Also...the H70 is out, but it's far more expensive, and doesn't cool much better from the reviews I've read. More food for thought.

Once again some fantastic info unexploded, thank you.
After much (far too much) research I have come to the same conclusion, H50 does have cooling advantages over most air coolers however for the difference in price and the copious amount of reviews/discussions I have read about it I have decided against impulsively splurging on one. In actual fact I made a small purchase today after much deliberation and measuring and I now have this 212+ strapped on top of my 955.

After reading several reviews of this cooler in comparison to coolers much more expensive it is a pretty good performer. I laid out $49 Aus and already the difference compared to the stock cooler is evident. My idle temps are around 22-24c. I am yet to try any OC with it as I am still waiting for my 5770 and dont see the point in trying to push an already crippled system.

Whether I stay with this cooler for long I don't know but if I can get some reasonable temps out of it with mild clocks it might stay strapped in for a bit.
Thanks again for the info guys.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


I haven't got the F4 bios but maybe try saving the settings to a profile in BIOS and see if it sticks?


Please tell me how to do this. I didn't know this board could save BIOS "profiles". That's awesome!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shaddix*


put F3 on it, F4 is supposed to suck.


I have F4 on my board and love it. Allowed me to drop my CPU vcore by 0.025 and remain stable.


----------



## shaddix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Please tell me how to do this. I didn't know this board could save BIOS "profiles". That's awesome!

I have F4 on my board and love it. Allowed me to drop my CPU vcore by 0.025 and remain stable.










F11 F12 on bios main menu.

I think I might try F4. I have 95w 1055t and am using 1.5vcore. People are telling me I should be able to do lower.

edit: updated to F4 with no problems.. now lets see if I can lower voltages any.


----------



## Blitz6804

As I posted earlier Metonymy, and as shaddix just said, F11/F12. F11 is to save a BIOS, and F12 loads a BIOS.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


As I posted earlier Metonymy, and as shaddix just said, F11/F12. F11 is to save a BIOS, and F12 loads a BIOS.


Thanks for saying what he just said 2 seconds ago?









LOL


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
I think I might try F4. I have 95w 1055t and am using 1.5vcore. People are telling me I should be able to do lower.

edit: updated to F4 with no problems.. now lets see if I can lower voltages any.

That's way too much vcore for a 95w 1055T...I've seen validations of 95w 1055T's at 4GHz with 1.28 vcore...


----------



## shaddix

Hopefully this F4 bios will help. My VID is 1.225. 1.5v is a lot of vcore but as long as temps are fine it wont damage the chip will it?


----------



## G3RG

>:[ I wants a 95w 1055t...and I'm slightly upset with this mobo...cant get over 300fsb stable >:[ ...kinda makes me wish I got a 1090t....sucks for max benching


----------



## lngu81

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G3RG*


>:[ I wants a 95w 1055t...and I'm slightly upset with this mobo...cant get over 300fsb stable >:[ ...kinda makes me wish I got a 1090t....sucks for max benching


if you can wc it, it's not a problem. I managed 2.8 on air


----------



## G3RG

Ya i'm collecting watercooling supplies now...I've hit 4.2ghz core and 3ghz nb, but it was far from stable...it was just to bench. But I've been experimenting with dropping the multi and raising fsb and I CANNOT get it over 300 =/


----------



## lngu81

I havn't seen any air stable bench over 3000fsb on UD5, but i have seen it stable on UD7. I can't get 3000 stable either while the temp was 60+, need to cool it down to around 55 C and will be good.


----------



## christoph

did you add voltage for the HT link? and the board NB?

to reach 300 you gotta need voltage, just a small step and see if it helps

anyway, I can't change the voltage for my cpu under the bios, you guys said that should revert to F3 bios (using F4 now) but another guy said that he was able to drop voltage and remain stable

any suggestion about flashing the bios?

is there any differences between those version?


----------



## shaddix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


did you add voltage for the HT link? and the board NB?

to reach 300 you gotta need voltage, just a small step and see if it helps

anyway, I can't change the voltage for my cpu under the bios, you guys said that should revert to F3 bios (using F4 now) but another guy said that he was able to drop voltage and remain stable

any suggestion about flashing the bios?

is there any differences between those version?


I flashed mine to F4 and it seems I can also drop my vcore just a notch. However that one dude said it fried his 1090T ? Or bricked his mobo or something.


----------



## christoph

ok

can you tell me how do you change the voltage for the cpu and the cpu-nb manually in the bios?

does cpu pll has to do with this?

I can change voltage for the RAM, but the cpu just won't keep it, if I change it, under the OS stays the default Vcore cpu 1.35 and NB 1.15


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
I flashed mine to F4 and it seems I can also drop my vcore just a notch. However that one dude said it fried his 1090T ? Or bricked his mobo or something.

unconfirmed that it fried my CPU, but updated to F4 was the culprit


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lngu81* 
unconfirmed that it fried my CPU, but updated to F4 was the culprit

Did you use QFLASH or did you update through Windows?


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
did you add voltage for the HT link? and the board NB?

to reach 300 you gotta need voltage, just a small step and see if it helps

anyway, I can't change the voltage for my cpu under the bios, you guys said that should revert to F3 bios (using F4 now) but another guy said that he was able to drop voltage and remain stable

any suggestion about flashing the bios?

is there any differences between those version?


What's your system? can you please edit your system in profile?
You should be able to change most of the voltages in bios, that's what bios designed for? I had bad experiences with F4 on two different UD5 mobos therefore I suggest you not to use F4.


----------



## christoph

I know where to change the voltage, but as this is a new MOBO for me, maybe there's something else I have to change ????

I was not able to change the voltage since I put everything together, and I'd upgrade to bios F4 to see if that would have let me change it, and then tried with F3 but no luck at all

the weird thing is that I can control the voltage under AMD overdrive


----------



## crunchie

Have you disabled C1E in BIOS?


----------



## lngu81

image google ud5 bios setting, you should be able to get some hints to change voltages, it's a very straight forward step, perhaps not to someone new to UD5








get a 58xx series video card and you are officially in the LEO legion, not sure what's the REAL benefit, but LEO sounds great!


----------



## cliveneo

r u saying u cant adjust the voltages at all?


----------



## christoph

Well

I am not new to overclock or bios settings, but yes there's is some other setings that I don't know about in these bioses

I am new to Gigabyte, I can tell you that

I wanted to wait until series 6xxx comes out to switch my video card.

anyway, I've tried disabling C1E and the same remains, any other setting I have to change? any ideas?


----------



## christoph

edit

I can go to the bios and under CPU voltage VID change the voltage to whatever I want, but once I am in the OS, open Everest and says that the voltage is the default

but If I change it under AMD overdrive (that says is the default voltage) takes it with no problem


----------



## cliveneo

do u have another cpu preferable a black edition cpu to see if the voltage settings stick.


----------



## crunchie

If you go back in to the bios, are the vcore changes you made still applied, or have they changed?
Everest misreads my vcore too.
What does CPU_z say?


----------



## cliveneo

i dont think it will matter at all but it seams u covered every avenue. // try adjusting ur volts and using cpuid HW monitor to see if they stuck


----------



## christoph

If I change the voltage in bios and go back after going into the OS, the the changes remains as I put them

everest and amd overdrive says the same about the voltage.


----------



## cliveneo

try changing it in the bios like u have been doing and use another program to monitor the results. like cpuid HWmonitor


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


edit

I can go to the bios and under CPU voltage VID change the voltage to whatever I want, but once I am in the OS, open Everest and says that the voltage is the default

but If I change it under AMD overdrive (that says is the default voltage) takes it with no problem


Are you using F10 to save the changes before you exit? I know it sounds silly, but it can't hurt to verify.


----------



## crunchie

If the changes remain set in bios when you go back in, then it is the windows software that is mis-reading them. As I said before, use CPU_z and it should give you the correct read-out.


----------



## cliveneo

precisely


----------



## christoph

If I change the voltage in bios and go back after going into the OS, the the changes remains as I put them

everest and amd overdrive says the same about the voltage.


----------



## christoph

tried with Hwmonitor and cpuid

and says the same...

what I am trying change here is the cpu-nb voltage to keep the system stable, I tried before to change the cpu voltage to see if it had effect but is the same thing, just won't take it


----------



## crunchie

Download CPU_z and post up a screenshot. Tell us also what vcore you have manually set in BIOS.


----------



## cliveneo

good idea post some pics


----------



## christoph

well

something is wrong now

I think the psu does not work as is suppose to

system turns on but it keep beeping, and is suppose to be an "power error" according to gigabyte bios troubleshooting

I tried already with another system, motherboard/RAM/cpu/video card/integrated video

but it does the same, just turn on but won't go into the bios


----------



## lngu81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
well

something is wrong now

I think the psu does not work as is suppose to

system turns on but it keep beeping, and is suppose to be an "power error" according to gigabyte bios troubleshooting

I tried already with another system, motherboard/RAM/cpu/video card/integrated video

but it does the same, just turn on but won't go into the bios

welcome to F4 BIOS UD5







j/k I just any excuse to curse the F4 BIOS.

Decimate - I updated F4 both with @bios and Qflash on 2 different UD5 mobos, test around 4 different downloaded version of F4- all are the same, so back to F3


----------



## christoph

actually

I'd upgrade it to F4, then F3 and then F4 and few min later the system didn't boot

I'd test the PSU on the other system and the exact same thing happend, won't go into bios

so is not the Mobo, CPU, RAM, Video card

this is strange for me, as I said, the system turns on, but just won't boot into bios, everybody would've said that is the Bios, bad flash or whatever, but it does the same thing on the other system, and the beeps coming from the MOBO indicates that is a "power error"

I didn't unplug all the fans, but I don't thing it could be that as they were running, could it?


----------



## christoph

yeah

is the psu, no doubt now


----------



## joh06937

Not entirely sure if this is alright to discuss on this forum but has anybody manage to successfully do a hackintosh build with the UD5 motherboard?


----------



## G3RG

Ya we're not aloud to talk about that on OCN...


----------



## joh06937

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G3RG* 
Ya we're not aloud to talk about that on OCN...

understood


----------



## decimator

I'm glad I finally have a system that can get over 20,000 points in 3DMark06







. Next upgrade is most definitely GPU. These 2900XT's are really starting to show their age...


----------



## G3RG

you got 20k in 3dmark06 with those 2900xt's =o

I only passed 20k when I made the jump from a c2q=4890 to my x6+4890

havent gotten around to running it again since I got my gtx470.


----------



## Blitz6804

3DMark06 is FAR more dependent on CPU than GPU. The Thuban at 4.0 GHz with an x1950 XT beat my 3DMark06 score for a Brisbane at 3.25 GHz with 2x HD 4870x2.


----------



## TheMasterPC

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
If I change the voltage in bios and go back after going into the OS, the the changes remains as I put them

everest and amd overdrive says the same about the voltage.

If you overclock your system is good to know that you need to disable the Hardware Thermal Control and Cool'N Quiet options,expecially the last one,that's the reason of not getting the real Vcore in CPU-Z because it's adjusting the voltage as your CPU load increase.(according to cpu voltage manufacturer range)

So this Cool'N Quiet option is good for saving power,lower temp and cpu life.


----------



## shaddix

Does everyone else's bios flash red "voltages not optimized" or whatever it says whenever it's set to manual with a decent OC?


----------



## crunchie

Sure does.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shaddix*


Does everyone else's bios flash red "voltages not optimized" or whatever it says whenever it's set to manual with a decent OC?


Yeah, mine does that, too. Don't worry about it as long as you sufficiently stress test your system and everything is stable.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheMasterPC*


If you overclock your system is good to know that you need to disable . . . Cool'N Quiet


You do? I am rock-solid stable at 4.0 GHz on a 1090T with it still enabled?
Quote:



Originally Posted by *shaddix*


Does everyone else's bios flash red "voltages not optimized" or whatever it says whenever it's set to manual with a decent OC?


The second I switch from Auto to Manual I get the same message. Do not worry about it in the least.


----------



## ryman546

So i get my gigabyte UD7 board back and gigabyte says they didnt see any problem!>[email protected]$?!?!? *** do they actually test these things. The F3B or whatever bios bricked this sucker hard core.

Man i dont want to hook this thing up only to find its still bricked. Ill never buy gigabyte again if thats the case.


----------



## alphabot

i've only recently disabled cnq - now using phenommsrtweaker or whatever it's called. much much better than the system cnq specs


----------



## Blitz6804

I had used K10stat on my old motherboard (with an x4 940) until DFI fixed the BIOS. (You physically could not overclock if CnQ was enabled.) It worked as good as CrystalCPUID with a K8, but not as user friendly. It is nice to be able to tweak CnQ, but I have never gotten around to bothering with this motherboard.

For those of us with CnQ on, I am curious if it is the chip or the motherboard not doing it properly. The lowest the 1090T will volt is 1.250 V. My x4 940 used to drop down to 0.950 V. Is this the BIOS programmed wrong, or is Thuban just stubborn?


----------



## Baio73

Hello everybody, my first post here... hope I'm not breaking too much of the forum's rules!








I'm using at the moment 4x2Gb Crucial Ballistix 1333MHz with the mobo in object, but I'm having a bounch of problems... I'm testing each stick with MemTest86+ and having strange results (such as errors with stick A in slot 1, no error with same stick A in slot 2 and so on), so I decided to look for another 2x2Gb kit.
Which RAM are supposed to be the most stable and problemless for this mobo?
I took a look at the RAM Compatibility List but did'nt find much more... furthermore, in Italy you can easily buy online just a few brands like OCZ, Corsair, some Geil and G.Skil...
I'd like to buy something stable, maybe just a little OC of my 1090T up to 4GHz, 1600MHz should be enough? What would you suggest?
Ciao and thanks in advance for yuor help!








Baio


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Baio73*


Hello everybody, my first post here... hope I'm not breaking too much of the forum's rules!








I'm using at the moment 4x2Gb Crucial Ballistix 1333MHz with the mobo in object, but I'm having a bounch of problems... I'm testing each stick with MemTest86+ and having strange results (such as errors with stick A in slot 1, no error with same stick A in slot 2 and so on), so I decided to look for another 2x2Gb kit.
Which RAM are supposed to be the most stable and problemless for this mobo?
I took a look at the RAM Compatibility List but did'nt find much more... furthermore, in Italy you can easily buy online just a few brands like OCZ, Corsair, some Geil and G.Skil...
I'd like to buy something stable, maybe just a little OC of my 1090T up to 4GHz, 1600MHz should be enough? What would you suggest?
Ciao and thanks in advance for yuor help!








Baio


If 1333MHz RAM works in one slot and not another, I would suspect a motherboard problem. However, it does seem unusual. Are you using the latest version of Memtest? You should make a boot CD like this one:
http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/
with the latest version and re-test. I had trouble with a different setup recently until I used a newer Memtest.

Any of the brands you mentioned make high performance memory and they also have a value line. You will have to determine the best bang for the buck based on your needs and budget. I was able to find a great deal on OCZ Black modules so I had to pick them up. I have had no problems running them at 1700MHz CL8 and I don't really need anything faster than that.

What are the timings for your Ballistix? I have read some studies that show 1333MHz performing best in certain circumstances. IMHO you should just keep what you have and see how far you can push it.

Keep in mind that Gigabyte recommends using the white RAM slots for the best overclock ability.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaddix
Does everyone else's bios flash red "voltages not optimized" or whatever it says whenever it's set to manual with a decent OC?

I have the same message and don't worry about it.

I love the setup I have but my only issue is that I do not like the close proximity of the PCIE X16 slots when using Crossfire X. My two GPU cards are almost touching and it causes poor air flow on the first card. It would have been nice to have another expansion slot between the cards as the one that is there is covered by the width of the cards.
The UD7 is laid out differently.


----------



## polynomialc

what are your crossfire card temps, ? each card


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
If 1333MHz RAM works in one slot and not another, I would suspect a motherboard problem. However, it does seem unusual. Are you using the latest version of Memtest? You should make a boot CD like this one:
http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/
with the latest version and re-test. I had trouble with a different setup recently until I used a newer Memtest.

Any of the brands you mentioned make high performance memory and they also have a value line. You will have to determine the best bang for the buck based on your needs and budget. I was able to find a great deal on OCZ Black modules so I had to pick them up. I have had no problems running them at 1700MHz CL8 and I don't really need anything faster than that.

What are the timings for your Ballistix? I have read some studies that show 1333MHz performing best in certain circumstances. IMHO you should just keep what you have and see how far you can push it.

Keep in mind that Gigabyte recommends using the white RAM slots for the best overclock ability.

Thanks for your replay.
I'm testing the Crucial sticks with the latest avaliable version of MemTest86+ (should be 4.10); I downloaded the .ISO and directly burn it with Nero, but I'm gonna take a look at the link you posted.
I also have a 1Gb stick of OEM RAM, I'm gonna test it at end to check it's not a mobo problem. By the way, maybe the problem is those RAM can work @1.5v (something like 9-9-9-24) but also @ 1.65v (7-7-7-24). If I leave BIOS RAM-related values to Auto the mobo sets them with the first timings. I'm gonna try to make a test also with manually-set values to see if something changes.
I'm not willing to buy a new kit just to see how much I can push it... I'd never spend other money if the RAM I have worked properly... but they don't! I'm having continuos BSOD under Seven 64bit, and with 4 sticks on the pc does not boot at all... I suspect the problem is some lightnings that fell around here the last week.








Thanks for your advice, I'm gonna take a look at OCZ Black modules and see if there's an italian eshop that sells them.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## hesho

just thought i'd mention, i joined the club!!! yay...

hell of an upgrade i came from too (athlon xp 2100, x800xt pe).

I'd get into more details later as i'm still testing my cpu oc (720 x3 be unlocked and running at 3.3ghz right now).

I do have a question though, what other programs are there that can be used to test stability? I currently am using prime95 (it's been running for 7 hours now). I kinda am looking for something to test the ram but i can't use memtest as i don't have any blank cds









I figure, today i'm hoping to test cpu (still) and ram and then tmr i'll finally test my gpu.


----------



## Blitz6804

Open Prime95. Click the "Blend" radio button, then "Custom," and adjust the "Memory to use (in MB)" to be 85% of the total installed memory. (1740 MB for 2 GB, 3480 MB for 4 GB, and 6960 MB for 8 GB.) Wait 30 minutes, quit prime, and start again using the same memory. (The first time will clear background tasks, the second will actually stress test.)

For both Baio73 and hesho, it would be great if you could add your systems to your profiles and be as detailed as possible.


----------



## hesho

thanks Blitz6804, kinda curious though, does the custom test run continuously or does it stop? This is good, i'll finally find out if my ram is stable or not although, it's not running on it's normal volts.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *polynomialc*


what are your crossfire card temps, ? each card


My temps at idle at 45.5 Degrees C for card 1 and 31 for card 2. My case and CPU run real cool.

CPU cores 23 Degrees C, CPU overall 32. Case is at 22 degrees C.

With even modest GPU usage the GPU goes to 59 degrees C for card 1 and 32 degrees c for card 2. I can bump up the fan manually and cool it down quickly.

I have not found a good way to stress the GPU or to test the CrossfireX. 
The cards are not over clocked yet but the can over clock like hell. I don't like the reduced air flow on card 1 because of the cards being side by side.

I can easily clock the GPU to 900 to 950 with the memory at 1200 MHZ. I just wish I had more space between the cards for this great case and fans to do their job without air flow restriction.

Are you aware of any software to test the CrossfireX and GPU operation?


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


[...]

For both Baio73 and hesho, it would be great if you could add your systems to your profiles and be as detailed as possible.


Here it comes, hope it's enough!
What about your memory?
Have you ever had any problem with them?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## shaddix

How come I can't get the 4x ram divider to work at all?


----------



## Blitz6804

shaddix: The ECOs do not appear to have a 4x divider; I also fail to POST while using it.

Baio73: I have not had problems with them really. 4x2 GB runs stable at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T-20. Note, however, as I mentioned to shaddix, the DDR3-800 divider does not work.

jjceo: Kombustor and Furmark both support multiple GPUs. Be sure to use the executable that says "multiple GPU" in the shortcut. (The program itself is labeled as etqw.exe, that being Enemy Territory - Quake Wars, which is the go-to fix if a game does not support Crossfire.) Note, that 59Âº C is fine for load. Kombustor or Furmark will likely push near 100Âº C however.


----------



## jjceo

Thanks for the info. I just downloaded performance test 7.0 and ran the first test. Here are the results compared to another AMD 1090t computer for reference.


----------



## saint19

Can somebody add this RAM to the recommended RAM?

Manufacturer: Crucial
Memory name. Baliistix Tracer
Part number: BL2KIT25664TN1608
Part Link: http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...KIT25664TN1608
Speed: DDR-1600MHz (PC3-12800)
Stock timings: 8-8-8-24
Voltage: 1.65V
Comments: Run stable at 1.5V 1600 or 1333 7-7-7-21 2T. Also the 1600 8-8-8-24 2T are stable with OC too.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
Can somebody add this RAM to the recommended RAM?

Manufacturer: Crucial
Memory name. Baliistix Tracer
Part number: BL2KIT25664TN1608
Part Link: http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...KIT25664TN1608
Speed: DDR-1600MHz (PC3-12800)
Stock timings: 8-8-8-24
Voltage: 1.65V
Comments: Run stable at 1.5V 1600 or 1333 7-7-7-21 2T. Also the 1600 8-8-8-24 2T are stable with OC too.

Along side his

Manufacturer: Crucial
Memory name: Ballistix
Part number: BL2KIT25664*BN*1608
Part Link: http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...KIT25664BN1608

Same stock timings and Voltage as the Tracer.
Comments: Runs stable at 1.5v 1333 7-7-7-15 2T and 1600 at stock timings and speed. Havent tired OCing much past 1600Mhz yet.


----------



## stasio

BIOS GA-890FXA-UD7(v.2.x) - F4 is out.


----------



## asianman

Hello guys, so this is my first build and using 890fxa-ud5 board and already iam having a lot of problems. So i got the g.skills f3-12800cl9d-4gbrl ram "DDR3-1600 PC3-12800" so when i installed just one ram on the slot and boot the default screen comes up and when pressing the del key the bios screen comes up however when installing both rams and when i press the del nothing happens just a black screen and bios will not load up. Is this a mobo problem? I have tried switching rams in different slots and placing both rams near the slot near the cpu "blue slot" and the two furthest slot from the cpu "white slot" and still the same problem.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stasio*


BIOS GA-890FXA-UD7(v.2.x) - F4 is out.


That's a very strange thing...

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...3416&dl=1#bios

They removed version F3 from the download list and placed the exactly same description that F3 had to F4's description!








I'm gonna try it and see if my RAM problems are related to a non fully-working BIOS release... let's hope so!








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *asianman*


Hello guys, so this is my first build and using 890fxa-ud5 board and already iam having a lot of problems. So i got the g.skills f3-12800cl9d-4gbrl ram "DDR3-1600 PC3-12800" so when i installed just one ram on the slot and boot the default screen comes up and when pressing the del key the bios screen comes up however when installing both rams and when i press the del nothing happens just a black screen and bios will not load up. Is this a mobo problem? I have tried switching rams in different slots and placing both rams near the slot near the cpu "blue slot" and the two furthest slot from the cpu "white slot" and still the same problem.


Put both sticks of RAM in the white slots and then reset the bios by either jumping the pins or by removing the cmos battery.
Make certain there is no power going to the motherboard first.
Make yourself a cuppa, drink it, then go put the battery back in or remove the jumper.
Try booting now.


----------



## TheMasterPC

Did someone spooted some difference between F2 and F4 on UD7,temperatures,memory clocks,voltages and so on ...?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Update: Well, Gigabyte has been holding my motherboard for a week now...with no mention of sending the replacement. It's been a solid month (actually since July 14th) in dealing with this RMA. I'm thinking of calling them again, and making a complaint. It's a simple replacement, not a flaming stability test.


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

Validated Members' Spreadsheet Edited

Members list updated.

Memory Spreadsheet Updated:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
Can somebody add this RAM to the recommended RAM?

Manufacturer: Crucial
Memory name. Baliistix Tracer
Part number: BL2KIT25664TN1608
Part Link: http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...KIT25664TN1608
Speed: DDR-1600MHz (PC3-12800)
Stock timings: 8-8-8-24
Voltage: 1.65V
Comments: Run stable at 1.5V 1600 or 1333 7-7-7-21 2T. Also the 1600 8-8-8-24 2T are stable with OC too.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285* 
Along side his

Manufacturer: Crucial
Memory name: Ballistix
Part number: BL2KIT25664*BN*1608
Part Link: http://www.crucial.com/store/partspe...KIT25664BN1608

Same stock timings and Voltage as the Tracer.
Comments: Runs stable at 1.5v 1333 7-7-7-15 2T and 1600 at stock timings and speed. Havent tired OCing much past 1600Mhz yet.

Both added.

F4 BIOS (UD5) is running strong with no issues.

~fidof650


----------



## Metonymy

Hey Fido,

Can you add the G-Skill ECO 1.35V 7CAS?

Runs at stock voltage at 7-7-7-20-27-1T when defaulted by the board.

Even overclocked when I've had to bump the voltage to hit 4.0ghz with my processor it still keeps the same timings. It's some beastly stuff.

Do note that this ram WILL NOT use the x4 divider. For some reason it simply isn't capable of doing it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Metonymy: It is already in P1... that is part #F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO.


----------



## saint19

Yeah fidof650 the F4 version is very solid I set my NB to 2800 without problems.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Metonymy: It is already in P1... that is part #F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO.

Oversight on my part. Good catch.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

I'm a new owner. I've actually had the board for 2 months, but as money's been tight, I've finally got it up and running now. Filling out the owners form now...


----------



## saint19

Welcome to the club AndAllThingsWillEnd and enjoy ur new mobo.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Update: Well, Gigabyte has been holding my motherboard for a week now...with no mention of sending the replacement. It's been a solid month (actually since July 14th) in dealing with this RMA. I'm thinking of calling them again, and making a complaint. It's a simple replacement, not a flaming stability test.



what was the problem with it?

I have the UD5 sitting on my desk now, it won't boot, I get 11 continuous beeps


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
what was the problem with it?

I have the UD5 sitting on my desk now, it won't boot, I get 11 continuous beeps

Reseat your ram, make sure that when you are installing it, that the pressure of you pushing the ram in sets the clips, that insures the best results. If that doesnt work, reseat your GPU. Then, report back.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Metonymy: It is already in P1... that is part #F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO.

I added it because it is the 8GB (4x2GB) version:

Part # F3-12800CL7*Q*-*8*GBECO

Q = Quad (4 sticks) as opposed to D = Dual (2 sticks)

8 = 8GB Set as opposed to the 4GB set

But good catch none the less... Thanks for keeping an eye out.

~fidof650


----------



## hesho

this is kinda a dumb question but.. is there a way to make windows automatically alllow easy tune 6 to run at startup (the annoying user account control)? It's annoying as hell how it always asks me everytime i reboot.


----------



## M0nk




----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *M0nk* 


CnQ







.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
this is kinda a dumb question but.. is there a way to make windows automatically alllow easy tune 6 to run at startup (the annoying user account control)? It's annoying as hell how it always asks me everytime i reboot.

Yeah it's possible. Check this for solve ur question.


----------



## Blitz6804

Method 6 (scheduler) is the one I have had the most luck with.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

I just want to say that I chose this over the MSI 890fx board, and I'm glad I did. This thread has taught me all that I needed to know about the board. I was so scared hitting the power button, as this is my first build, but everything started right up. I just want to thank all the posters who have helped me with my issues, by having their issues fixed.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AndAllThingsWillEnd* 
I just want to say that I chose this over the MSI 890fx board, and I'm glad I did. This thread has taught me all that I needed to know about the board. I was so scared hitting the power button, as this is my first build, but everything started right up. I just want to thank all the posters who have helped me with my issues, by having their issues fixed.

Congrats on your build, and welcome home!


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AndAllThingsWillEnd* 
I just want to say that I chose this over the MSI 890fx board, and I'm glad I did. This thread has taught me all that I needed to know about the board. I was so scared hitting the power button, as this is my first build, but everything started right up. I just want to thank all the posters who have helped me with my issues, by having their issues fixed.

Welcome to OCN and enjoy the new rig. As an advice check the BIOS version of the mobo that u have and if it's old update to F4 version.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
Welcome to OCN and enjoy the new rig. As an advice check the BIOS version of the mobo that u have and if it's old update to F4 version.

It came with F1 but I used @bios to upgrade to F4. Have had no problems so far. Now I just need to get my GTX460...


----------



## saint19

Good choice about the GPU I want change my GPU too.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

The only reason I got the 4350 was because it was one of the cheapest gpu's I could find at 29.99. I built this computer paycheck to paycheck and I was tired of looking at it, I wanted to play with my toy...


----------



## saint19

U did a right job with that build.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AndAllThingsWillEnd* 
It came with F1 but I used @bios to upgrade to F4. Have had no problems so far. Now I just need to get my GTX460...

My 465 Golden Edition (which will unlock to a 470) will be showing up today.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
U did a right job with that build.

Thanks, I took a lot of time researching everything. This site has been invaluable, I've been a lurker for months and finally decided to join the fun.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
My 465 Golden Edition (which will unlock to a 470) will be showing up today.









I'm quite jealous...


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
what was the problem with it?

I have the UD5 sitting on my desk now, it won't boot, I get 11 continuous beeps

Defunct southbridge...refused to do heavy hard drive reads. I spent several days testing the thing, and tried a different motherboard to test with...no issues, but it's the girlfriend's board. So I sent the board to Gigabyte, and Gigabyte sent it back once, still doing the same thing. I called, got a new RMA, they paid shipping, and have sat with the board up their butt for over a week. They told me it was to be replaced "with a new board." There is no reason it should take them a week to replace a board.


----------



## klaxian

So after waiting and watching this forum, I upgraded to the F4 BIOS today. Unfortunately, I did not have much luck with it and I had to downgrade to F3. With my previously stable settings, the computer wouldn't boot. I kept getting the message that there was trouble due to overclocking and my clock speed would be reset. Only after a drastic reduction would the computer boot. Reverting to F3 fixed the problem and restored my previous overclocking ability. Hopefully this information is helpful to others thinking about upgrading. F3 is the best version for me so far.


----------



## alphabot

i think that's a problem with F4. i get that every single time when rebooting. my system requires a complete turnoff then back on before it's ok


----------



## Metonymy

And i'm in the opposite boat with F4. It performs well for me and allowed me to drop my CPU voltage on my old processor a notch and keep stable.

Crazy how different it acts with everyone's systems.


----------



## alphabot

F4 is good, everything oc's well, but the reboot thing is a pita


----------



## M0nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


CnQ







.










<--Idiot

Maybe now

What's the deal with my GPU clocks though?
I have been having a couple of issues with this card since I installed it.. mainly artefactual and the like.. some tweaking has all but corrected that though.
Might be a simple question but are my GPU clocks being throttled too?


----------



## Blitz6804

ATi has Power Play. It is like CnQ for a GPU. To fix it for a validation, run a GPU stress test (Kombustor or similar) before you validate your CPUz. To fix it permanently, I can tell you how to do it later.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

I have a quick question... I'm looking at getting some gentle typhoons for my H50, but I noticed that they are non pwm. Does that mean I can't control the rpm's in the cpu fan header? Or will this board let me do it?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AndAllThingsWillEnd* 
I have a quick question... I'm looking at getting some gentle typhoons for my H50, but I noticed that they are non pwm. Does that mean I can't control the rpm's in the cpu fan header? Or will this board let me do it?

No, u can control the rpm's of the fans without problems.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

Cool. I kept reading people saying to get fan controllers or else the would be on full time.


----------



## M0nk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


ATi has Power Play. It is like CnQ for a GPU. To fix it for a validation, run a GPU stress test (Kombustor or similar) before you validate your CPUz. To fix it permanently, I can tell you how to do it later.


Thanks for the info Blitz, I will run Kombustor tonight and then do another Validate. See how it goes.


----------



## shaddix

Anyone else having issues getting ECOs(F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO) stable on stock volts/timings?
Errors out on linx on first pass. Here's some pics of bios, if you guys think it's weird I'll post them on g.skill's forum.


----------



## TheMasterPC

You need to tweak the timmings to 7-7-7-20-1T-4T-8T-4T-27T or 7-7-6-20-4T-8T-4T-27T and try to raise the NB voltage to 1.2v from 1.15v.


----------



## Blitz6804

I found I had to increase my row recharge time a bit. 7-8-7 is too ambitious I have found, and 7-8-8 works far better for DDR3-1600. (In fact, I found it must always be one greater than the CAS Latency to be stable.) Also, decrease your voltage to 1.410 V, I found that my stability DECREASED with 1.510 V as compared to 1.410 V.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Update:

Now I'm outright angry with Gigabyte. I finally called them, after they've had my board for nearly 2 weeks. I get a "oh, it's being shipped out today, you'll receive a tracking number soon" response. Still no tracking number today. I'm going to wait through today, and if no tracking number, I'm going to call and demand a refund. There is no excuse for this extremely slow turnaround time, lack of contact, updates, or generally crappy service.

Good service: I bought a knife recently...the sheath came out of the box with a cut in it. I contacted the knife maker since returning to the store would ultimately end up with them, and I didn't want to mail the knife back. It was a test of the maker's customer service. The day after I send an email, I get a CALL from them, apologizing, and ready to send a new sheath. And this is for a ~$67 tool, not a $180 piece of electronics. On top of that...lifetime warranty for something that WILL see abuse for..oh...the rest of my life. I am completely disappointed in the computer industry, and especially with Gigabyte. At this point I can certainly say I will not buy a Gigabyte board again, even if I do get a tracking number today, which I doubt will happen.


----------



## shaddix

Damn I was under the impression gigabyte had pretty good CS







.

Thanks for tips on the ram guys, I'll try them out. The data on the ram says they're supposed to run 1600mhz at 1.35v 7-8-7-24-40T-2T. I can't even get these to post at 1.41v. I'm gonna see what g.skill says about it.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Has anyone compared the differences between rev 2.1 vs 2.0 motherboard? Only differences I could find on the web site:

rev 2.0
"Support for DDR3 1866(OC)(Note 2)/1333/1066 MHz memory modules (Note 2)"

"(Note 2) To reach DDR3 1866MHz or above, you must install two memory modules and install them in the DDR3_3 and DDR3_4 memory sockets"

rev 2.1
"Support for DDR3 2000(OC)/1333/1066 MHz memory modules"

It looks to me like the 2.0v can't push 4 memory sticks to 2000MHz but the 2.1v can. I mention this of course because I have a 2.0v









edit: Also noticed on the pictures of the boards that there is a minor change of board layout. The memory sockets are switched and a noticeable difference of some sort of chips underneath the chipset cooler are removed in the 2.1v

Also: Has anyone noticed that the current AMD chips only support memory speed of 1333MHz max?
"The fastest supported memory is DDR2-1066 and DDR3-1333"


----------



## Blitz6804

Fir3Chi3f: Yes, AMD officially only supports DDR3-1333. This is like in the days of 939 where they officially only supported up to DDR-400, but motherboards permitted DDR-500 or similar. As to version 2.1, supposedly the missing chip is the hardware unlocker, meaning lower chips might be less likely to unlock into greater chips, be it cores or cache.


----------



## shaddix

Well for the life of me I can't get my **** running at 286x14 anymore. Yesterday I had it running 286x14 passing 10+ runs of linx with ease at 1.45v. Today I can't get past the first pass of linx at 286x14 without it rebooting even at 1.5v! cpunb voltage and multi seem to have no effect. I can't figure out *** is wrong with it.

So now what I am trying is 300x13.5(4050) 1.5v and running prime small FFT to hopefully isolate cpu from the imc/nb


----------



## buggyman

Hi all - pls. help me with your feedback.

I just bought and assembled my new PC, and I need your short feedback in regards to IDLE TMPIN0 temperatures. Running standard 3.20Ghz (not overclocked) i'm reading in CPUID Hardware Monitor (and bios):









Room temp is ~23C

TMPIN1+2+Core looks OK, but as i understand it the TMPIN0 is the South Bridge. I got high temperature reading, so I've replaced the Thermal Compound on the motherboard heat sink and added an additional small heat sink (what ever i could find) on top of the original SB motherboard heatsink with a small fan as well:









Still i read IDLE TMPINV0 = 59C, which i belive is extremely high!!?

*a. Is this 'normal', or to high (is there something wrong with my MBO?)
b. I'm running 2 SSD's in RAID0. Can this 'stress' the SB and cause the high temp?
c. I'm planning OC to ~4GHz. Will this be an issue in regards to the current IDLE TMPIN0?*


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *buggyman* 
Still i read IDLE TMPINV0 = 59C, which i belive is extremely high!!?

*a. Is this 'normal', or to high (is there something wrong with my MBO?)
b. I'm running 2 SSD's in RAID0. Can this 'stress' the SB and cause the high temp?
c. I'm planning OC to ~4GHz. Will this be an issue in regards to the current IDLE TMPIN0?*

I will do my best to help. First, I'm not sure that TMPIN0 is definitely the SB. It is listed as "motherboard". In addition, I think the sensor may be under your video card (as it was with mine). Your RAID setup may be putting a little more stress on the SB, but it really shouldn't account for that high of temperatures. I suspect that the SB/sensor under your video card is not getting much air flow with your setup and the video card produces a lot of heat in that region as well. If you can change your air flow pattern, it should help. Otherwise, just keep an eye on the temps. Anything below 75C should be safe according to Gigabyte.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


I will do my best to help. First, I'm not sure that TMPIN0 is definitely the SB.


It is.

0 = Southbridge
1 = CPU
2 = Northbridge


----------



## buggyman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
Otherwise, just keep an eye on the temps. Anything below 75C should be safe according to Gigabyte.

I've been following this thread and everyone else seems to have significant lower TMPIN0 temp., so thats my worry if something was wrong.
If i should just stay below 75C, then I'm calm...









Thanks


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Another update:

I called Gigabyte...and yelled at them a bit. The customer service guy stayed kind of quiet. They never bothered to let me know the thing was mailed last friggin' week (friday). It's due for delivery tomorrow. I get the new mobo I bought today. I'm going to look if it's the same serial number as before. According to the CS guy I spoke to, it's refurbished, as I expected. If it's the same number, it's then time for legal battle. If not, I'll probably just sell it and keep the new Asus...maybe it will be better. What is even funnier is that I'm going on vacation on Friday, and packing Thursday. So I'll have to wait another week and a half if I want to actually test the Gigabyte.

Overall....failure.

On a totally unrelated non-rant note:

Buggyman, is that a blue Zalman heatsink you hacked the fins off? It's a good idea. Maybe a similar thing can be done for the NB, or possibly the VRM cooler.


----------



## buggyman

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Buggyman, is that a blue Zalman heatsink you hacked the fins off? It's a good idea. Maybe a similar thing can be done for the NB, or possibly the VRM cooler.


It was just the nearest heat sink i could find... Could be a Zalman 
My NB is 37C (idle), so this isn't the issue. The issue is the SB/System temp @ 59C...


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I'm thinking something has to be wrong, or your ambient temp is 100+F. The SB only puts out approximately 4 watts of heat (according to the wiki comparison http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_AMD_chipsets ). This is less than an Atom chip, which I've seen smaller heatsinks on that ran just fine. Either there is a voltage runaway for the chip, causing extremely high leakage, a temperature sensor is FUBAR, ambient temp is way off, or your SB heatsink is not making contact with the chipset, or poor thermal grease, or a barrier is between them. 
Considering how my last board was, I'm inclined to doubt the accuracy of the temp sensor, or that it's even located on the SB.

Didn't someone post a little while ago that Gigabyte had no real clue which sensor represent what temp?


----------



## Savvage

I am getting ready to order a second hd 4870 GPU so I can run crossfire, which is the correct slot to use? I currently have a ASUS HD4870 card and I am using a Raidmax Smilodon case and I need to figure out if I am going to have enough room to even add a second card


----------



## UnexplodedCow

If you're going for crossfire, use the top two X16 slots with the long bend locks, not the white lever locks as the lower two have. That will provide the most bandwidth, although your cards will be fine at x8 PCI-e bandwidth, too.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want 16x/16x, use first two slots as UnexplodedCow said. If you want 8x/8x, more than enough for an HD 4870, run the first and last slots.


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


If you want 8x/8x, more than enough for an HD 4870, run the first and last slots.


Crossfire connector might be a little too short for this.


----------



## Blitz6804

Very true, it likely is. The slots are:

16x (runs 8x if the 8x is populated)
16x
4x
8x

Currently, I have 16x for my GPU, and 4x for my PhysX, and I can see what you mean as to the shortness.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Crossfire connector might be a little too short for this.


Heh! I can only imagine the hilarity that would ensure trying to jump two cards at opposite slots together. I have yet to see a very long crossfire jumper. Maybe they exist?


----------



## Blitz6804

Its an interesting question. I wonder if they ever will? The first and third might be doable, but I imagine the first and fourth would be a fuzz too far. I found it funny that this board did not come with a crossfire bridge in the first place. My DFI did.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Fir3Chi3f: Yes, AMD officially only supports DDR3-1333. This is like in the days of 939 where they officially only supported up to DDR-400, but motherboards permitted DDR-500 or similar. As to version 2.1, supposedly the missing chip is the hardware unlocker, meaning lower chips might be less likely to unlock into greater chips, be it cores or cache.


Thanks for the reply Blitz, ahh 939, was using a 3700+ before I built this thing. Quite a leap from ddr to ddr3 and single to quad core, enough about the past tho.

Just was a little concerned that the ram would have all sorts of errors at 1600 because the cpu couldn't keep up. Still a little concerned that the 2.0v wont be able to push 4 sticks as far as they can go, but I also doubt that I will go that route. (8GB on two sticks seems like enough for me)

@UnexplodedCow - I have that same cooler (on a different board tho). It is a ZALMAN ZM-NB47J. Also did a similar hack job to a heatsink that I stuck in a 360 to make it around the GPU heat pipe.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


My DFI did.


Yep, my DFI came with EVERYTHING, including computer carrying harness. Now that was a nice extra!


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Heh! I can only imagine the hilarity that would ensure trying to jump two cards at opposite slots together. I have yet to see a very long crossfire jumper. Maybe they exist?


Found this on eBay







.


----------



## JW Pepper

An update to my system...

I installed a Micron RealSSD C300 128GB a couple of days ago and woweeeeee!!! I don't think I can ever go back to a hard drive after experiencing the SSD goodness. I am using a WD Caviar Black 1TB SataII as a storage drive. I plan on just installing a few games on the SSD. This has got to be the most bad ass single upgrade I have ever experienced. I just had to share. I tested it and was getting 348mb/s on the read and 148mb/s on the write. I'm at my desktop in 20 seconds after pushing the power button. Newegg had them on sale so I snatched it up and now I'm never looking back.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JW Pepper* 
An update to my system...

I installed a Micron RealSSD C300 128GB a couple of days ago and woweeeeee!!! I don't think I can ever go back to a hard drive after experiencing the SSD goodness. I am using a WD Caviar Black 1TB SataII as a storage drive. I plan on just installing a few games on the SSD. This has got to be the most bad ass single upgrade I have ever experienced. I just had to share. I tested it and was getting 348mb/s on the read and 148mb/s on the write. I'm at my desktop in 20 seconds after pushing the power button. Newegg had them on sale so I snatched it up and now I'm never looking back.









I too know the feeling. Fasting loading of... EVERYTHING I have ever experienced. From the time you see the windows logo to my password, ~12 programs fully loaded... 15 seconds!

Couple that with the 1055T @ 3.6 (for now), its just stupid fast!


----------



## Velathawen

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1372976

Here's my validation. Going to see if the tighter timings make any difference folding.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Velathawen*


http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1372976

Here's my validation. Going to see if the tighter timings make any difference folding.


3 graphics cards? W.T.F.?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Got the replacement board in today....definitely a refurb. Not going to test it until I'm back from vacation, but after that I'll do my best to blow holes in the board within reason. If it works...great.
As for the Asus I got yesterday..it installed, booted up Windows (no reinstall) just fine, installed the USB and LAN drivers...all was well. Very stable. I tried the nooby auto-OC, and it stuck the CPU at 3.78 Ghz, while lowering the voltage below stock. It also pulls 30 watts less power, and manages to run around 30C (measured with infrared thermometer less than 1" away) on NB, 32C on the SB, and 32C on the VRM. It measures CPU temp NOT from core, and says I idle at 27C in a 25C room, and get around 36C under a gaming load. I'll keep the Gigabyte around as a secondary for a couple months after I test...just in case the Asus blows up. However, after that, the Gigabyte is gone.
I guess I'll have to leave this club now







It's been fun spending a few months troubleshooting, and thanks for the support of the issue. Thanks to Gigabyte for being royal F***ups, lying to me three times (about BIOS version, getting a "brand new" motherboard, and when the board shipped), and catching shipping for the 2nd RMA round.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


3 graphics cards? W.T.F.?


Game on the HD 5850 with one 9800 GT on PhysX. Folding on the 9800 GTs. I would guess anyway.


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Game on the HD 5850 with one 9800 GT on PhysX. Folding on the 9800 GTs. I would guess anyway.

Bingo!

Folding on 9800GTs most of the time, since most of my games don't have PhysX


----------



## Blitz6804

I knew that is what I would do (as I usually leave my GT 240 folding while gaming) so I figured you would do the same.


----------



## gooface

well this sucks, I think my RAM just failed on me.... going to do some testing to confirm my suspicions. because my overclock just because unstable out of the middle of nowhere, even when volted way higher... man gotta love hardware sometimes...

i noticed something was wrong when i was just browsing the internet, and firefox crashed, then my screen went black, then flashed back, and then It was frozen on my desktop.


----------



## Blitz6804

Which driver are you using for your HD 5870?


----------



## Blueduck3285

What is our Max Safe temp for temp3 or North Bridge?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285* 
What is our Max Safe temp for temp3 or North Bridge?

Gigabyte has reported 85C as safe with an absolute maximum of 100C. However, the general consensus on these boards is to not go higher than 75C. For most of us, there is no risk of exceeding that.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Oh nice, I hit 64*C max, but my ambient right now is 30*C+... freaking hot up in this piece.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285* 
Oh nice, I hit 64*C max, but my ambient right now is 30*C+... freaking hot up in this piece.

I get up to 57C or so and I start getting worried. Maybe I shouldn't.

My 1055t @ 4.0 definitely gets hotter than my X4 630 @ 3.65... LOL


----------



## hesho

i'm kinda jealous watching everyone get such a nice OC


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
i'm kinda jealous watching everyone get such a nice OC









I have a much different CPU than you. They all clock differently.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

What the safe voltage range for the NB? It goes to red at 1.25 but I've heard that you can actually take it a lot further. (and I mean NB, not CPU-NB)


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Which driver are you using for your HD 5870?

the newest set, im really starting to get mad here, this thing has been running non-stop great, and just started acting up like 2 weeks ago, and I just ran super-pi and I came back and the pc re-set with a BSOD!!! what is wrong here?? its been over 3 months fine the way its been, and now i cant run stable at super pi for more than 20 minutes... someone please tell me what Im doing wrong here, I dont want to lose the speed ive had for the past 3 months.

EDIT: now ive been running prime95 for 3 hours on small FFT's and no crashes, so its my memory, should i try lowering the timmings or what?


----------



## Blitz6804

Do not use 10.8, VERY twitchy. Completely uninstall Catalyst. Reboot. Install 10.5.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Do not use 10.8, VERY twitchy. Completely uninstall Catalyst. Reboot. Install 10.5.

well its weird because I just ran memtest86+ for about 6 hours and it doesnt crash.

so if the cpu doesnt go when I run small FFT's
&
The memory doesn't get any errors on memtest

whats the deal with the instability when used together on my computer??

ill see if its catalyst, but I dont think thats the issue at hand here..


----------



## Baio73

Hello everybody!
Does anyone have experience with UD-7 and GEIL *GU34GB1600C7DC* ?
I mean, do they give problems? Are they ok for some OC?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, my computer went from being rock-solid stable (24-hours of Prime + Prime + Kombustor without any errors) to having four BSODs in a week since putting in 10.8. So take that how you will.


----------



## Necromatic

Hey guys, what a large thread! I've gone through about 50 pages before I began to bounce around different pages...

Overall I'm having an issue with my machine bsoding while playing games such as Bioshock 2, Bad Company 2 and CoD...

Since reading the thread I have downloaded LinX, CPUID and began stress testing to the best of my knowledge, but haven't been able to recreate a crash without loading a game and playing for about two hours...

Specs:

-AMD Phenom II X6 1055T (Stock heatsink)
-Case has adequate cooling I believe with one large 250mm and 150mm intake and two 150mm exhaust
-House is about 80 degrees F.
4gg ddr3
ati hd 5670
750W modular power supply

Basically how can I find out what the problem is when I crash? Do I need to clean the stock thermal pad on the heatsink and replace it with artic silver 5 thermal paste or another brand? Or is this one of the problems with the mobo's heatsinks?

Any answers would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## saint19

@Necromatic.

Do u get a specific error? Check the temps that u get with HWMonitor or Everest.


----------



## Necromatic

Thanks for the quick reply. I don't get an error, just the blue screen. Below are links and pictures (hopefully they come out alright) of a base and a testing. I just added two more fans between posts and maybe this solved the issue? After this post I'll play some Bad Company 2 and see if the results differ.

Screenshot (BASE): http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/s...ootingbase.jpg










Screenshot (TEST): http://s562.photobucket.com/albums/s...ootingtest.png










Thanks again for the quick reply


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Well, my computer went from being rock-solid stable (24-hours of Prime + Prime + Kombustor without any errors) to having four BSODs in a week since putting in 10.8. So take that how you will.

Yup. When I had my Hawk 5770 in my system, I tried 10.8. It lasted about 2 days. I wasn't BSOD-style unstable, but I could tell it just wasn't playing nice.

I have my 465 Golden Edition now (yup, unlocked to a 470) and don't even have to mess with Catalyst now.

I got a few BSD's with the Nvidia drivers, but that was due to me pushing the OC without giving it enough voltage. Figured it out and all is well.


----------



## saint19

A little out of the thread but somebody know the max voltage that I can apply to a GTX260 core 192?


----------



## Blitz6804

So it is easier to help a few pages from now Necromatic, perhaps you can add your system to your profile? Are you using Coretemp when you crash? What temperatures are shown when it does so? What is the system overclocked to? BSODs are often either RAM, Northbridge, or graphics cards. <EDIT>Looking at the screen caps, the CPU seems to be getting a little warm. (56Âº C by my reckoning.)</EDIT>

Metonymy: I just put back CCC 10.5. I have now been SMP + GPU folding for the past 4 hours without incident. I will keep all updated.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Well, my computer went from being rock-solid stable (24-hours of Prime + Prime + Kombustor without any errors) to having four BSODs in a week since putting in 10.8. So take that how you will.

well i thought it was all perfect till after 1.5 hours in, i got a error on one of the cores on prime95... so it wasnt the newest driver for me, though what is weird is that i ran prime95 in safemode overnight and after 7 hours my pc froze, but before that it ran fine.

what is WRONG WITH MY COMPUTER?!?!?!


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
well i thought it was all perfect till after 1.5 hours in, i got a error on one of the cores on prime95... so it wasnt the newest driver for me, though what is weird is that i ran prime95 in safemode overnight and after 7 hours my pc froze, but before that it ran fine.

what is WRONG WITH MY COMPUTER?!?!?!

Well, it's not Rock Solid, that's all...








Whan I search for stability, I usually do 24 hours of Prime95 or similar, but still I can't consider the system Rock Solid until it's ok in daily use...
I had a 955 BE that was perfect under every 24 hours-long test and then it crashed everytime I played Sacred 2 (which is not properly an "heavy" game!).
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baio73* 
Well, it's not Rock Solid, that's all...








Whan I search for stability, I usually do 24 hours of Prime95 or similar, but still I can't consider the system Rock Solid until it's ok in daily use...
I had a 955 BE that was perfect under every 24 hours-long test and then it crashed everytime I played Sacred 2 (which is not properly an "heavy" game!).
Ciao!
Baio

well, here's my settings, the reason i say this is because i had it running stable (8+ hours if i remember right) for months (like 3 months) and now its not anymore...








any suggestions on what I should change on my overclock?

btw this is my RAM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231281


----------



## Blitz6804

Drop your HT Link Frequency to 7x. Anything past 2000 MHz is surplusage, and is likely to cause instability.

Does decreasing your CPU Northbridge Freq. to 9x assist any instability? Mine does not like to be ran higher than 2750 MHz or so.

Unless I am mistaken, your RAM timings are supposed to be 7-8-7-24 for DDR3-1600, you have 7-7-7-18.

As all three of these deal with the memory <=> CPU interface, any of them could be the source of your bluescreen. Do not just run Prime to test system stability, also load up Kombustor or Furmark on the GPU to make sure you are stressing the HyperTransport and Northbridge as well.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Drop your HT Link Frequency to 7x. Anything past 2000 MHz is surplusage, and is likely to cause instability.

Does decreasing your CPU Northbridge Freq. to 9x assist any instability? Mine does not like to be ran higher than 2750 MHz or so.

Unless I am mistaken, your RAM timings are supposed to be 7-8-7-24 for DDR3-1600, you have 7-7-7-18.

As all three of these deal with the memory <=> CPU interface, any of them could be the source of your bluescreen. Do not just run Prime to test system stability, also load up Kombustor or Furmark on the GPU to make sure you are stressing the HyperTransport and Northbridge as well.

run both furmark and prime95 at the same time?


----------



## Blitz6804

Yep. Start Furmark (windowed mode is fine), and check how much free RAM you have left. Multiply your free RAM (in MB) by 0.9. Boot Prime95, click "blend," then "custom," and enter in the value you just computed. When all is said and done, you should be using 96% of all six cores, 98% of your GPU, and about 96% of your RAM.

EDIT: When I pass 24 hours of the above, I call my rig stable, and not before. Because of this rigorous testing, a lot of my overclocks seem a shade low, but to never crash except for driver faults, I think it is worth it. For the record, since going back to CCC 10.5, the desktop has not BSODed again.


----------



## GeorgieFruit

e: wrong thread; meant MSI 890FXA


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Yep. Start Furmark (windowed mode is fine), and check how much free RAM you have left. Multiply your free RAM (in MB) by 0.9. Boot Prime95, click "blend," then "custom," and enter in the value you just computed. When all is said and done, you should be using 96% of all six cores, 98% of your GPU, and about 96% of your RAM.

EDIT: When I pass 24 hours of the above, I call my rig stable, and not before. Because of this rigorous testing, a lot of my overclocks seem a shade low, but to never crash except for driver faults, I think it is worth it. For the record, since going back to CCC 10.5, the desktop has not BSODed again.


so I have tried all that you have suggested to me, i set the NB to 2700, my timings to what you said to 7-8-7-24, and my Ht link to 7x, and still I get constant crashes... please help me, Im really getting sick of this, it was working GREAT and now, I cant even stay constantly stable for 1 hour...

so Im completly stuck on what I should do, my memory is fine 
(didnt crash on memtest after 6 hours, so no hardware failure there)


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
so I have tried all that you have suggested to me, i set the NB to 2700, my timings to what you said to 7-8-7-24, and my Ht link to 7x, and still I get constant crashes... please help me, Im really getting sick of this, it was working GREAT and now, I cant even stay constantly stable for 1 hour...

so Im completly stuck on what I should do, my memory is fine
(didnt crash on memtest after 6 hours, so no hardware failure there)

In this situations, the only thing worth to do IMHO is to raise Vcore...
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baio73* 
In this situations, the only thing worth to do IMHO is to raise Vcore...
Ciao!
Baio

tried that, didnt change anything..


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
tried that, didnt change anything..

Try with 21 in the RAS active time, 90ns on DIMM2 and DIMM4 and set the command timing to 2T and don't forget the 1.65V for the RAM.


----------



## Blitz6804

gooface: What BIOS version do you have? F3 seems to be the best bet (although many like F4). Have you tried clearing the CMOS and manually resetting everything?


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
gooface: What BIOS version do you have? F3 seems to be the best bet (although many like F4). Have you tried clearing the CMOS and manually resetting everything?

i tried F4, and it didnt post with my current overclock, so then i reflashed back to F3.


----------



## Blitz6804

You did remember to flush the CMOS after the flash correct?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


You did remember to flush the CMOS after the flash correct?


Doesn't a BIOS flash automatically reset the CMOS to default?


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


You did remember to flush the CMOS after the flash correct?


ok, just got home from work. going to start figuring out whats the deal with this computer, im going to reflash it and clear the cmos, should I try F4 again? or just use F3?


----------



## Blitz6804

Clear the CMOS. Flash on F3. Clear the CMOS.

Also, go through every single possible page to make sure you did not miss something. One time I missed one of the HDD controller settings (had it set to IDE instead of RAID) and I could not post.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Clear the CMOS. Flash on F3. Clear the CMOS.

Also, go through every single possible page to make sure you did not miss something. One time I missed one of the HDD controller settings (had it set to IDE instead of RAID) and I could not post.

hey, thanks for all the help, Im working my way towards where it was before after doing this, and Im taking steps to make sure its all the way stable this time.


----------



## gooface

well its back to where it used to be, and now I have errors again, should I increase the volts on something? (other than the CPU, because that does nothing, already tried) and what is DQS training control?

btw my crashes are BSOD's

do i need to change volts? timings on my ram?

thanks!


----------



## saint19

Change 1st timings if u still getting the BSoD change voltage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Blue screens are often the fault of the RAM or the Northbridge. The first step to try would be to drop your Northbridge multiplier to 6 (1800 MHz) to rule that out.

If that fails, put the Northbridge back to 7 (2100 MHz), try decreasing your command rate to 2T (if you have not already), and then try loosening the RAM timings up a bit. RAS to CAS R/W Delay should be 8 right now. CAS# latency and Row Precharge Time should be 7. Minimum RAS Active Time should be 24. TwTr Command Delay should be 5, Write Recovery Time should be 10, Precharge Time should be 5.

And I just noticed now your Row Cycle Time (tRC) is WAY too tight. Generally speaking, Row Cycle Time should be the sum of the Row Precharge Time (tRP) + Minimum RAS Active Time (tRAS). In any event, it should never be less than the Minimum RAS Active Time. (In my case, tRAS is 18, tRC is 20, rather than the "ideal" 25.) Before attempting anything in the previous paragraph, loosen RAS to CAS R/W Delay to 8, and Row Cycle Time to 25. If that fails, do the prior paragraph and Row Cycle Time to 31.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Blue screens are often the fault of the RAM or the Northbridge. The first step to try would be to drop your Northbridge multiplier to 6 (1800 MHz) to rule that out.

If that fails, put the Northbridge back to 7 (2100 MHz), try decreasing your command rate to 2T (if you have not already), and then try loosening the RAM timings up a bit. RAS to CAS R/W Delay should be 8 right now. CAS# latency and Row Precharge Time should be 7. Minimum RAS Active Time should be 24. TwTr Command Delay should be 5, Write Recovery Time should be 10, Precharge Time should be 5.

And I just noticed now your Row Cycle Time (tRC) is WAY too tight. Generally speaking, Row Cycle Time should be the sum of the Row Precharge Time (tRP) + Minimum RAS Active Time (tRAS). In any event, it should never be less than the Minimum RAS Active Time. (In my case, tRAS is 18, tRC is 20, rather than the "ideal" 25.) Before attempting anything in the previous paragraph, loosen RAS to CAS R/W Delay to 8, and Row Cycle Time to 25. If that fails, do the prior paragraph and Row Cycle Time to 31.

Hey Blitz, you seem to be more than an expert user... ever thought of putting down some OC guide for this mobo? Or maybe does it already exist?!?
As soon as I'll have enough free time, I'm gonna see if this Gigabyte can give me 4GHz of CPU as my old MSI 790FX board used to (before it exploded!)... and a guide would be very very much appreciated!








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

Hardly Baio73, I just have spent a lot of time tweaking with DDR, which is far more critical with RAM timings than DDR3.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Blue screens are often the fault of the RAM or the Northbridge. The first step to try would be to drop your Northbridge multiplier to 6 (1800 MHz) to rule that out.

If that fails, put the Northbridge back to 7 (2100 MHz), try decreasing your command rate to 2T (if you have not already), and then try loosening the RAM timings up a bit. RAS to CAS R/W Delay should be 8 right now. CAS# latency and Row Precharge Time should be 7. Minimum RAS Active Time should be 24. TwTr Command Delay should be 5, Write Recovery Time should be 10, Precharge Time should be 5.

And I just noticed now your Row Cycle Time (tRC) is WAY too tight. Generally speaking, Row Cycle Time should be the sum of the Row Precharge Time (tRP) + Minimum RAS Active Time (tRAS). In any event, it should never be less than the Minimum RAS Active Time. (In my case, tRAS is 18, tRC is 20, rather than the "ideal" 25.) Before attempting anything in the previous paragraph, loosen RAS to CAS R/W Delay to 8, and Row Cycle Time to 25. If that fails, do the prior paragraph and Row Cycle Time to 31.


the moment I started testing Prime it failed on the last thread, but i tried it again just for kicks and it has been running for about 45 mins so far and no errors (fingers crossed) this is with me following your last paragraph.


----------



## Blitz6804

If it failed, then that is not going to do it. Go for the middle paragraph. 7-8-7-24-2T-5-10-5-31 is where to start.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


If it failed, then that is not going to do it. Go for the middle paragraph. 7-8-7-24-2T-5-10-5-31 is where to start.


update, still on the other settings(the last paragraph) and and 5 hours stable so far, looking good so far, I think it might of been just a hiccup in the first run that made it instantly fail on the last thread, BUT i could be wrong, it could fail anytime.

or does it failing at the beginning completely discount all im doing right now?


----------



## Blitz6804

One fail might have been a glitch. Or, it might have been a sign of something deeper. You did say you are loading the northbridge too and not just the CPU right?


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


One fail might have been a glitch. Or, it might have been a sign of something deeper. You did say you are loading the northbridge too and not just the CPU right?


im running furmark on the side of prime95.


----------



## maido

Sorry to cu in but I wanna be part of the club lol (^_^)v ud5 here


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Hardly Baio73, I just have spent a lot of time tweaking with DDR, which is far more critical with RAM timings than DDR3.

I'm getting much convinced everyday that in OCing those AMD CPU's, RAM are far more important that in the past... probably due to the RAM controller inside the CPU...
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

RAM on AMD is far more critical than RAM on an Intel. Having recently played with my dad's E6850 and Q8400, I can state that with some experience. However, my Deneb (DDR2) was more forgiving than my Toledo (DDR1), and the Thuban (DDR3) is far more forgiving than either.


----------



## gooface

update, tried to run my overclock overnight, and it froze in the first 12 minutes.

so now im testing with 2700 HT, and 2700 NB.

and BSOD, now 2400, 2400...


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gooface*


update, tried to run my overclock overnight, and it froze in the first 12 minutes.

so now im testing with 2700 HT, and 2700 NB.

and BSOD, now 2400, 2400...


Lower your HT down to 2000. No need to raise it any higher and it can actually cause instability (as may be the case in your situation). Your NB at 2400 or 2700 should be ok provided you're giving it enough voltage.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


Lower your HT down to 2000. No need to raise it any higher and it can actually cause instability (as may be the case in your situation). Your NB at 2400 or 2700 should be ok provided you're giving it enough voltage.


ive got my NB at 1.4 volts.

i changed what im testing, Im testing my system now at 3000, 3000, but i noticed one thing on my memory that i changed, it was at 1T, im trying it at 2T.

BSOD, now im trying with 2100Ht, 3000NB, and 2T on the RAM. and fail, now for 2700NB.. failed.. now 2400NB.


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you, for fun, tried reducing your RAM multiplier one notch? If it passes, perhaps your RAM is defective.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Have you, for fun, tried reducing your RAM multiplier one notch? If it passes, perhaps your RAM is defective.


if it was defective, wouldnt it fail on memtest?


----------



## Blitz6804

Not necessarily. Memtest checks for hardware errors, not overclocking errors. I had wanted you to give the 7-8-7-24-2T a shot just to test it. Have you ever tried running everything completely stock? If it still fails then, it is possible the operating system install is hosed. (Stranger things have happened.)


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Not necessarily. Memtest checks for hardware errors, not overclocking errors. I had wanted you to give the 7-8-7-24-2T a shot just to test it. Have you ever tried running everything completely stock? If it still fails then, it is possible the operating system install is hosed. (Stranger things have happened.)


well so far it isnt crashing at 2400mhz NB so far with 45 mins, the others were crashing constantly around 11 mins of testing, but shouldnt I be able to set it higher with 1.4v on the NB?


----------



## Blitz6804

Theoretically, yes. But as the saying goes, "your mileage may vary." When you are not sure what is causing the instability, you need to break it down and test each part individually. If the RAM is completely stock (DDR3-1600 at 7-8-7-24-2T with 1.65 V) and it is still crashing, the RAM might be to blame. To be sure, you would need your Hypertransport and Northbridge at or below 2000 MHz. If it passes, then slowly tighten up the RAM timings to see if the instability resurfaces. If it does not, then speed up the Hypertransport or the Northbridge (not both) to find where the problem lies.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Theoretically, yes. But as the saying goes, "your mileage may vary." When you are not sure what is causing the instability, you need to break it down and test each part individually. If the RAM is completely stock (DDR3-1600 at 7-8-7-24-2T with 1.65 V) and it is still crashing, the RAM might be to blame. To be sure, you would need your Hypertransport and Northbridge at or below 2000 MHz. If it passes, then slowly tighten up the RAM timings to see if the instability resurfaces. If it does not, then speed up the Hypertransport or the Northbridge (not both) to find where the problem lies.


im running the ram at 1.6 volts, should i be on 1.65? i say this because my ram is rated at 1.6v.


----------



## Blitz6804

I thought it was 1.65 V. Go with whatever is on the sticker.


----------



## gooface

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I thought it was 1.65 V. Go with whatever is on the sticker.


ok, now about the stock timings, my ram is rated at 2000mhz, but it wont post at that speed at all, so use the timings you gave me then?

and question, i shouldnt be touching NB voltage control should I?


----------



## Blitz6804

NB Voltage is the 890FX voltage. That should be fine completely stock. The CPU-NB Voltage is what you would need to use to get your NB higher than 2000 MHz. Do you have the Newegg Link to your exact RAM kit? When I Googled "G.SKILL Ripjaws," more than ten kits show up.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
NB Voltage is the 890FX voltage. That should be fine completely stock. The CPU-NB Voltage is what you would need to use to get your NB higher than 2000 MHz. Do you have the Newegg Link to your exact RAM kit? When I Googled "G.SKILL Ripjaws," more than ten kits show up.

its this kit:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231281

now what i dont get is that it says 1.65v on newegg, and on the pictures on newegg its different sticks on the pic because my ram is 9-9-9-27, and on newegg its 9-9-9-24, and on g.skill's site, but on the sticks it says 1.6v.


----------



## Blitz6804

Different RAM revisions. I was going with the assumption you had the DDR3-1600 CL7 kit, hence where my numbers were coming from. Theoretically, you can run 300x13.5 on the DDR3-667 divider. That would give you 4050 MHz on the CPU, 2000 MHz on the RAM. Make sure you set it to 9-9-9-27-2T (with the tRC to 36) with 1.600 V.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Different RAM revisions. I was going with the assumption you had the DDR3-1600 CL7 kit, hence where my numbers were coming from. Theoretically, you can run 300x13.5 on the DDR3-667 divider. That would give you 4050 MHz on the CPU, 2000 MHz on the RAM. Make sure you set it to 9-9-9-27-2T (with the tRC to 36) with 1.600 V.

that doesnt work, all i get is 5 short beeps and then it posts with unoverclocked settings


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I figured that would happen. Theory and practice always differ, unfortunately. I would have to look around, but I was assuming you have the same memory chips as are in the G.Skill DDR3-1600. They are specced for DDR3-1600 at 7-8-7-24-2T with 1.600 V. Using the DDR3-533 divider gives you DDR3-1600 as you are testing. For fun, have you tried putting the multiplier back to 16x, the RAM divider to DDR3-667, and seeing how high you can push the HTT? I have found that in my case, anything approaching 300 MHz on the HTT is stubborn without advanced tweaking. Now that I am in a holding pattern with the Bar results, I intend to sit down and experiment when I get home. Make sure you have the RAM in the white slots.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Yeah, I figured that would happen. Theory and practice always differ, unfortunately. I would have to look around, but I was assuming you have the same memory chips as are in the G.Skill DDR3-1600. They are specced for DDR3-1600 at 7-8-7-24-2T with 1.600 V. Using the DDR3-533 divider gives you DDR3-1600 as you are testing. For fun, have you tried putting the multiplier back to 16x, the RAM divider to DDR3-667, and seeing how high you can push the HTT? I have found that in my case, anything approaching 300 MHz on the HTT is stubborn without advanced tweaking. Now that I am in a holding pattern with the Bar results, I intend to sit down and experiment when I get home. Make sure you have the RAM in the white slots.

now after some tweaking, i got the ram to post at 2000mhz at the settings you told me, but i have the FSB only at 250. and the ht and NB at 2500 with the cpu at 3250... odd I am even more confused...



now its barely stable like this, dunno why, but when i start prime95, they all start failing. and this doesnt even post when my FSB is at 300


----------



## gooface

im starting to think I need to increase my CPU NB volts, whats the max safest volts?


----------



## decimator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
im starting to think I need to increase my CPU NB volts, whats the max safest volts?

I believe the general rule is never go higher than what your vcore is currently set at. Also, el gappo's Thuban overclocking guide says that going over 1.4 on air is a bad idea.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *decimate* 
I believe the general rule is never go higher than what your vcore is currently set at. Also, el gappo's Thuban overclocking guide says that going over 1.4 on air is a bad idea.

well so far 1.425v is working with my setup. I dont know if this is bad though:

TMPIN1:max temp 61C
TMPIN2:max temp 67C

my cpu though is maxed out at 55C

ok, crashed, so back to 1.4

so question, why does my PCI-E connection say 8x on CPUZ?


----------



## Blitz6804

1.400 V is spec for a Thuban, with 1.450 V permissible for Turbo. I personally run 1.440 V 24/7 as I have Turbo disabled.

Try dropping your Hypertranport to 8x (2000 MHz) and see if you can get the voltage down.

TMPIN1 is your CPU temp (not your Core temp), which is supposed to be about 5-8Âº C cooler than your cores. As your Cores may be 62Âº C, TMPIN1 should be below 57Âº C at all times. 54Âº C is safer, especially when overvolting.

(Your Core temp as displayed in Coretemp, the 55Âº C you mentioned, is about 13Âº C too cool on Thubans, and thus, it is likely actually up to 68Âº C, or 6Âº C over spec. This might be part of your instability issues I think.)


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
1.400 V is spec for a Thuban, with 1.450 V permissible for Turbo. I personally run 1.440 V 24/7 as I have Turbo disabled.

Try dropping your Hypertranport to 8x (2000 MHz) and see if you can get the voltage down.

TMPIN1 is your CPU temp (not your Core temp), which is supposed to be about 5-8Âº C cooler than your cores. As your Cores may be 62Âº C, TMPIN1 should be below 57Âº C at all times. 54Âº C is safer, especially when overvolting.

(Your Core temp as displayed in Coretemp, the 55Âº C you mentioned, is about 13Âº C too cool on Thubans, and thus, it is likely actually up to 68Âº C, or 6Âº C over spec. This might be part of your instability issues I think.)


i dropped my HT to 2100, and NB to 2400, and im testing as we speak.

well that crashed, hey blitz do you have a steam or xfire account so we can talk between each other faster because im getting ready to call quits on this, its really killing me, I WANT A WORKING COMPUTER!!!! (sorry had to get that out) no really could we talk on one of those, and then post results on here so someone else out there if they have the same issues I have could figure it out too.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes. Both Steam and XFire are Blitz6804.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Yes. Both Steam and XFire are Blitz6804.

k added. thanks


----------



## ToxicAdam

I just overclocked my 1090t to 3.7Ghz on stock voltage. Is this okay? I've been reading up on it a little and most people recommend 1.32v for 3.7GHz and since on stock voltage with C'nQ enable the lowest it goes is 1.33v I didn't see a need to manually set voltage.

I also left turbo enabled for a quick 4.1Ghz jolt when I need it. Everything is stock except the CPU multiplier.

Why 3.7GHz? well its the highest you can go before C'nQ is disabled automatically.. I like to have it on.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I just overclocked my 1090t to 3.7Ghz on stock voltage. Is this okay? I've been reading up on it a little and most people recommend 1.32v for 3.7GHz and since on stock voltage with C'nQ enable the lowest it goes is 1.33v I didn't see a need to manually set voltage.

I also left turbo enabled for a quick 4.1Ghz jolt when I need it. Everything is stock except the CPU multiplier.

Why 3.7GHz? well its the highest you can go before C'nQ is disabled automatically.. I like to have it on.

Have you run any stability tests to ensure it's solid?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
Have you run any stability tests to ensure it's solid?

I ran OCCT for an hour. It passed

Turbo concern me a little but people are hitting 4.0GHz between 1.40v - 1.45v so I figured the default 1.47v should handled 4.1GHz on 3 cores


----------



## maido

Hey can someone let me know if my temps are a little weird,, they are really close together under load.

And also Im worried about my volts on vcore and ram.. In the bios I tried changing just my ram to 1.65 (for its stock voltage) and it said volts not optimal. So I changed back to auto and it sets them at 1.5 as you can see in pic.

side not all i have changed until now is freq clock and set the timings on the ram to stock 7-8-7-20


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Why 3.7GHz? well its the highest you can go before C'nQ is disabled automatically.. I like to have it on.


News to me. I run 4.0 GHz with CnQ still enabled. Yes, I still downclock. I have, however, disabled Turbo, maybe both cannot be on past that point? Or have you heard that 3.7 (18.5x200) can have CnQ, but 3.8 (19x200) cannot, whereas I am 4.0 (16x250).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maido*


And also Im worried about my volts on vcore and ram.. In the bios I tried changing just my ram to 1.65 (for its stock voltage) and it said volts not optimal.


It will say this whenever voltage is set to anything other than "Auto." Rest assured, it is fine.


----------



## hesho

maybe this was answered elsewhere but.....

now i know that TMPIN0, TMPIN1 and TMPIN2 is system, CPU, NB....

but then.... what about the fan controls?

From CPUID HW, it shows i have a FANIN0 and FANIN2. I have 2 fans connected to the mobo, the PWR_FAN and the SYS_FAN02 (the 3pin one)

I'm only asking this because it shows that both fans spinning at 1500 or so RPM, but the PWR_FAN is only rated to go 1200..... Kinda wondering what is up with that.

Also, why does it show 3 different PWM fans in CPUID HW? Shouldn't there be just 2?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


News to me. I run 4.0 GHz with CnQ still enabled. Yes, I still downclock. I have, however, disabled Turbo, maybe both cannot be on past that point? Or have you heard that 3.7 (18.5x200) can have CnQ, but 3.8 (19x200) cannot, whereas I am 4.0 (16x250).


Well damn! maybe I should try 3.8GHz. I would need to bump voltage to 1.40v

3.8GHz would likely crash when C'nQ kicks voltage down to 1.33v


----------



## Blitz6804

I use 1.440 V for 4.0 GHz via an HTT clock only. I could likely get away with less if I started to decrease my multiplier some more.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


maybe this was answered elsewhere but.....

now i know that TMPIN0, TMPIN1 and TMPIN2 is system, CPU, NB....

but then.... what about the fan controls?

From CPUID HW, it shows i have a FANIN0 and FANIN2. I have 2 fans connected to the mobo, the PWR_FAN and the SYS_FAN02 (the 3pin one)

I'm only asking this because it shows that both fans spinning at 1500 or so RPM, but the PWR_FAN is only rated to go 1200..... Kinda wondering what is up with that.

Also, why does it show 3 different PWM fans in CPUID HW? Shouldn't there be just 2?


 FANIN0 is the CPU fan header for me.


----------



## ToxicAdam

It seems my little upgrades paid off.. I'm maxed out!!!

http://www.yougamers.com/gameometer/10406/


----------



## hesho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
FANIN0 is the CPU fan header for me.

if that was the case, where is the PWR_FAN then? What's also odd is that easy tune 6 straight up doesn't work at all for fan monitoring. I'm kinda curious how fast the 1200rpm fan is spinning...


----------



## akrein62

This is my second build, but will be my first attempt at overclocking. After going through 169 pages here and lots of looking elsewhere, I'm more confused than ever.

I'd like to start out with a modest 3.5GHz. My main confusion is when I look at processor specific discusions, the BIOS setting details are not consistent or incomplete. I see lots of things like Raise this or lower that, but it never says how to do it. Or maybe things are labelled differently in different BIOSs. Could someone please point me to an easy to follow guide?

Thanks.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *akrein62*


This is my second build, but will be my first attempt at overclocking. After going through 169 pages here and lots of looking elsewhere, I'm more confused than ever.

I'd like to start out with a modest 3.5GHz. My main confusion is when I look at processor specific discusions, the BIOS setting details are not consistent or incomplete. I see lots of things like Raise this or lower that, but it never says how to do it. Or maybe things are labelled differently in different BIOSs. Could someone please point me to an easy to follow guide?

Thanks.


Have a read here; http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...rclocking.html


----------



## gooface

does anyone here know how to configure drive strength on this board to get my ram to work at its true speed of 2000mhz? because its working at 1960mhz just fine, but I believe the only way to make it work at 2ghz is to play with drive strengths.


----------



## blackalphabet

my 890FX UD5 board is here! too bad my psu ain't here yet >:[

i have gotten the cpu on it along with the heatsink.

i am using the cm hyper 212. i have two fans on it. one stock/one excalibur

i'm gonna do a push/pull kinda thing. how should it be configured?

the front of the fan shows the brand of the fan, correct?

[rear of case] | <fan< {heatsink} <fan< | [front of case]

should have both fans facing the same way, which should be facing to the rear right?

and when installing my 2x2gb g.skill eco kit ram in, does it matter which slot i insert the memory into?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
i'm gonna do a push/pull kinda thing. how should it be configured?

the front of the fan shows the brand of the fan, correct?

[rear of case] | <fan< {heatsink} <fan< | [front of case]

should have both fans facing the same way, which should be facing to the rear right?

and when installing my 2x2gb g.skill eco kit ram in, does it matter which slot i insert the memory into?

The fans should both face toward the rear of the case or the top depending on your air flow. You want all your air flow in the same direction. Exhaust is normally out the back and top.

Install your RAM into the white slots for better overclock ability (according to Gigabyte).


----------



## blackalphabet

okay, so i leave the two blue slots empty right? and occupy the two white slows?

hence occupy DDR3_slot3 & _slot4 ?
leave DDR3_slot1 & _slot2 empty ?

also, where would i plug fan on the heatsink, closest to the rear? cpu fan ?
and what about the other fan on the heatsink, closest to the front? _____ ?


----------



## crunchie

When I set my two fans up on the radiator I spliced both together so that I could connect to the cpu fan header.
You can also get a 'Y' adapter lead that will do the same thing. http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...roducts_id=286
You obviously want both fans to spin at the same speed







.


----------



## blackalphabet

oh okay, so i need to get myself a Y cable, splitting the power for the two fans to connect into 1 header. gotcha


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
okay, so i leave the two blue slots empty right? and occupy the two white slows?

hence occupy DDR3_slot3 & _slot4 ?
leave DDR3_slot1 & _slot2 empty ?

also, where would i plug fan on the heatsink, closest to the rear? cpu fan ?
and what about the other fan on the heatsink, closest to the front? _____ ?

Yes, leave the two blue slots empty if you only have two modules.

The HSF should be plugged into the "CPU fan" header. You might be able to get a Y-cable to plug both in there, but I'm not sure how much power is needed. The other option is to connect one of the fans directly to your PSU. It doesn't really matter which, but I would choose the one closest to your exhaust (pull).


----------



## blackalphabet

the additional fan i'm adding in is an excalibur fan, and it came with a 3 pin connector that connects directly to psu (extra wire). i am using the excalibur as my pull fan (closest to exhaust) and using the hsk (stockfan) as push (closest to front)

should i use the wire that came with the excalibur fan and plug the fan directly to my psu? and plug the stock fan into the cpu fan header?

edit: these are the two extra wires that the excalibur fan came with, will either of this help me?


----------



## Blitz6804

Are the stock fan and the Excalibur alike in dignity? If not, I would suggest getting another equal fan. While you can push/pull with dissimilar fans, best results occur with matched fans. Sometimes you can actually make temperatures worse if you have a poorly matched set. Also, it would be helpful to all if you added your system to your profile.


----------



## blackalphabet

yeah, well i haven't received my psu yet, so no power.

i can get another excalibur fan to make it a balanced set.
unless there is another fan that's better and cheaper than the excalibur.
i just bought the excalibur today, and can still return it. please let me know ^^

Excalibur:
speed: 600 ~ 2000 rpm
flow: 26.4~85.6
pressure: 0.75~3.53
noise: 13~30

Stock fan:
speed: 600~2000 rpm
flow: 21.2~76.8
pressure: 0.40~3.90
noise: 13~32

should i change the stock fan? or change both fans? or just switch the excalibur for another stock fan?


----------



## Pullback

I just bought a 1200 Antec and this UD5 series. I picked up the wrong memory I fear Patriot PGV38G1333ELK and that is DDR3 i believe and 9-9-9-24.. I got no Bios screen on the cheap PNY PCIe graphics card or any of my old PCI cards I threw in there.. Also no beep beep.. So I think it's the memory. I am in love with this thing, just from looking at it and the cable hiding is brilliant in the case! Ok.. Blue is also my favorite color..







I am creeping my way up to a UD9 and a x6 future gen chip when they release it!









What memory do you use or recommend? It says 16gb max but the pair I picked ain't cutting it. Also the Patriot web site does not list this wonder board as supported. Perhaps Corsair or other memory?

What graphics card can I use for under 100 bucks that might hold it's value while I save for a 400 dollar model? I know these are crossfire boards and wondered if I can still run an old 128mb Matrox quad card in the old PCI slot without much drag on the system.

I will post some screen shots when it's done. Cheers!

I just want to get the toy box running like a little..









---edit:-----

As I read along I might add a little to this. I did see the list of recommended memory and the max size are 2gb sticks. 2gb x 4 being 8 and the max memory said 16gb on the box. I am just confused i guess.

--------

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maido* 
I have been hearing great things about the Gskill ecos for ud5. A couple people on here have em and my friends back in the states are giving them good reviews they got good timings and stock clocks and low volts make em decent candidates for ocing. And for the matter the price is right... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-321-_-Product

Thank you for the suggestion! I will be ordering 2sets of those. Any thoughts on the bios not appearing? I think this is my problem after all. Have you heard of anybody running the actual 16gb ram maximum?


----------



## maido

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pullback*


I just bought a 1200 Antec and this UD5 series. I picked up the wrong memory I fear Patriot PGV38G1333ELK and that is DDR3 i believe and 9-9-9-24.. I got no Bios screen on the cheap PNY PCIe graphics card or any of my old PCI cards I threw in there.. Also no beep beep.. So I think it's the memory. I am in love with this thing, just from looking at it and the cable hiding is brilliant in the case! Ok.. Blue is also my favorite color..







I am creeping my way up to a UD9 and a x6 future gen chip when they release it!









What memory do you use or recommend? It says 16gb max but the pair I picked ain't cutting it. Also the Patriot web site does not list this wonder board as supported. Perhaps Corsair or other memory?

What graphics card can I use for under 100 bucks that might hold it's value while I save for a 400 dollar model? I know these are crossfire boards and wondered if I can still run an old 128mb Matrox quad card in the old PCI slot without much drag on the system.

I will post some screen shots when it's done. Cheers!

I just want to get the toy box running like a little..









---edit:-----

As I read along I might add a little to this. I did see the list of recommended memory and the max size are 2gb sticks. 2gb x 4 being 8 and the max memory said 16gb on the box. I am just confused i guess.


I have been hearing great things about the Gskill ecos for ud5. A couple people on here have em and my friends back in the states are giving them good reviews they got good timings and stock clocks and low volts make em decent candidates for ocing. And for the matter the price is right... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-321-_-Product


----------



## Pullback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *maido*


I have been hearing great things about the Gskill ecos for ud5. A couple people on here have em and my friends back in the states are giving them good reviews they got good timings and stock clocks and low volts make em decent candidates for ocing. And for the matter the price is right... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-321-_-Product


Thank you much Maido,

I need to add this as well. The machine does not beep when starting and all fans just spin and lights work. the only other thing is the Antec 1200 series could be hooked up wrong or not enough power to run the P II x6 in the slot? So, I am returning the ram and getting the Gskill that seems like a good first step. Just wonder if anyone has seen any incompatibility issues or bad Antec 1200's out there with the UD5's or similar? The power supply included with the Antec 1200 is a 750 watt unit. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

-----------

The ram I bought: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220466
The ram I am getting: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...20100914061905

------------

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


i got the GSkill Eco kit, from references in this forum.

i will post up my own experiences, once i get everything up and running ^^


Awesome blackalphabet!

I look forward to hearing about it. I guess there are new processors coming out in a year or so anyhow, should be some fun times for this mobo to come!


----------



## blackalphabet

i got the GSkill Eco kit, from references in this forum.

i will post up my own experiences, once i get everything up and running ^^


----------



## Blitz6804

blackalphabet: How far are the fins spaced on the 212? If there is a small gap (the thickness of 1-2 fins between each fin) go with a higher pressure fan, such as the stock one. If there is a large gap (greater than 2 fins between each fin) go with a higher speed fan such as the Excalibur. I have personally never heard of an Excalibur, so I am just going on your specs of it. I personally have used Scythe S-Flex "F"s because, to me, they are the highest speed fan I have found that still runs bone silent. The "G"s are faster, but they are also audible. I am currently using the Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM with a rheostat attached to bring them down to 1300 RPM or so; similar airspeed as the S-Flex, but with higher pressure due to the thicker blades.

Pullback: I wonder what is wrong with your Patriot memory. DDR3-1333 CL9 should work fine, even if a little slow for the platform. I currently use the G.Skill ECOs as well. In fact, I have two kits of them (presently) running at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T-20. I was not able to get them running all four DIMMs at DDR3-1600 at the time, which is why I gave up trying at the time. When I had only one kit, I ran it at DDR3-1666 7-8-8-1T-24. When I get home, I will start overclocking my rig from scratch again since I no longer have the Bar exam looming over my head. (Instead, I am waking up every morning with nightmares about how much I am going to fail it.)


----------



## oCkM

Hey
New player Here!!!

1055t on UD-5 890FX with F4 Bios 
What should I run to prove it is stable ?


----------



## blur510

Okay I have a UD5 and I want to run 3 video cards, q for physx. and 2 with accelero xtreme. since the accelero extreme video cards takes up 3 slots each, I was thinking of running my physx card on the first pci-e x16 slot. and the 2 video cards on crossfire on the second pci-e x16 and on the last pci-e x8. would that be possible? thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

blur510: The slots on the motherboard are (from top to bottom) as follows:

a: PCIe 1x
b: PCIe 16x (runs 8x if "f" is populated)
c: PCIe 1x
d: PCIe 16x
e: PCIe 4x
f: PCIe 8x
g: PCI

Hope that helps. I currently run my HD 5970 on b, and my GT 240 (PhysX) on e.


----------



## Pullback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


blackalphabet: How far are the fins spaced on the 212? If there is a small gap (the thickness of 1-2 fins between each fin) go with a higher pressure fan, such as the stock one. If there is a large gap (greater than 2 fins between each fin) go with a higher speed fan such as the Excalibur. I have personally never heard of an Excalibur, so I am just going on your specs of it. I personally have used Scythe S-Flex "F"s because, to me, they are the highest speed fan I have found that still runs bone silent. The "G"s are faster, but they are also audible. I am currently using the Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM with a rheostat attached to bring them down to 1300 RPM or so; similar airspeed as the S-Flex, but with higher pressure due to the thicker blades.

Pullback: I wonder what is wrong with your Patriot memory. DDR3-1333 CL9 should work fine, even if a little slow for the platform. I currently use the G.Skill ECOs as well. In fact, I have two kits of them (presently) running at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T-20. I was not able to get them running all four DIMMs at DDR3-1600 at the time, which is why I gave up trying at the time. When I had only one kit, I ran it at DDR3-1666 7-8-8-1T-24. When I get home, I will start overclocking my rig from scratch again since I no longer have the Bar exam looming over my head. (Instead, I am waking up every morning with nightmares about how much I am going to fail it.)


Blitz!

Yeah, I think it is memory or just a plain old graphics card not being seen by the motherboard! To get the bios screen the mobo should see and utilize a vid card. I think I will go exchange the pny card for this one at bestbuy as it has crossfire support and 2 outputs 1 analog and one DVI.. Eeek. Will report back! Thanks peeps for all you do.

I also discovered this text in another thread somewhere.. lmao

"Motherboards haven't beeped upon bootup since Clinton was president mate, unless there is an error in which case it will and as someone already said, most of the new cases these days don't have speakers - since the invention of the micro piezo speaker most motherboard manufacturers have had them mounted on the board itself. "


----------



## Blitz6804

oCkM: The most failure resistant method (I have yet to have a hardware/overclock-related failure after passing this test) is to run MSI Kombustor or Furmark (an 800x600 window, 0xAA is fine), and check how much free RAM you have left. Multiply your free RAM (in MB) by 0.9. Boot Prime95, click "blend," then "custom," and enter in the value you just computed.


----------



## Pullback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *oCkM*


Hey
New player Here!!!

1055t on UD-5 890FX with F4 Bios 
What should I run to prove it is stable ?


Welcome aboard! I am in the same boat as you! Cheers.. On page one of this thread there are a bunch of benchmark links and resources.. Check those out and have a blast! ttyl and good luck in your benchmark tests and such.


----------



## Pullback

ok folks, before I go too far and waste too much time asking dumb questions.. I might need to know these 2 simple things.

1.
Does this board or modern boards in general display BIOS screen when booting with no installed memory ram?

2.
will this cheap graphics card work for an initial BIOS boot prior in OS install? If not, just for testing's sake what cheaper card should fire up once installed?


----------



## oCkM

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pullback*


ok folks, before I go too far and waste too much time asking dumb questions.. I might need to know these 2 simple things.

1.
Does this board or modern boards in general display BIOS screen when booting with no installed memory ram?

2.
will this cheap graphics card work for an initial BIOS boot prior in OS install? If not, just for testing's sake what cheaper card should fire up once installed?










1. I don`t think a computer can boot without any Ram...

2.HD4350 is a very cheap display card
if you are going to get a new display card anyway, why don`t you but some other like 5770/4870/4850/ or nVidia`s GTX 460 GTX450 or even GTS250
They are all a lot better than the 4350


----------



## Pullback

Quote:


Originally Posted by *oCkM* 
1. I don`t think a computer can boot without any Ram...

2.HD4350 is a very cheap display card
if you are going to get a new display card anyway, why don`t you but some other like 5770/4870/4850/ or nVidia`s GTX 460 GTX450 or even GTS250
They are all a lot better than the 4350









Thanks, I just want to test for BIOS and know the card will be recognized at BIOS start.. I can return the cheap card or just give it away. I might try and upgrade to the 4850, GTS250 or better once i solve the mystery of the Patriot 1333 ram. I might order the new 2gb x 2 ram if the BIOS does not appear when I install the HD4350.. Also, all but one of my monitors are analog. One of the DVI's went bad however, that might be my problem. Cheers!


----------



## oCkM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pullback* 
Thanks, I just want to test for BIOS and know the card will be recognized at BIOS start.. I can return the cheap card or just give it away. I might try and upgrade to the 4850, GTS250 or better once i solve the mystery of the Patriot 1333 ram. I might order the new 2gb x 2 ram if the BIOS does not appear when I install the HD4350.. Also, all but one of my monitors are analog. One of the DVI's went bad however, that might be my problem. Cheers!









I think your 4350 could be recognized at Bios start because it wasn`t that old
Patriot Ram







it is expensive but good for OC
If you could see something in the bios , thats mean that wasn`t the display problem
But if you can`t see anything after the boot on , thats the problem of display


----------



## christoph

well

I don't know If I'm member of the club yet

cuz, I've posted questions a couple of weeks ago because I was having problems with my computer

anyway, my UD5 is intact but my 1055t is dead along with one stick of memory

How come?

Don't know exactly but I have a very good idea of it, I'd send my MB for RMA which I got it back yesterday of course with the claim that it had nothing wrong, well it doesn't have nothing wrong

but Gigabyte manage to erase Turbo Core from bios (F4)

well, I just have to RMA the CPU hoping of course that I would get a new one


----------



## Pullback

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
well

I don't know If I'm member of the club yet

cuz, I've posted questions a couple of weeks ago because I was having problems with my computer

anyway, my UD5 is intact but my 1055t is dead along with one stick of memory

How come?

Don't know exactly but I have a very good idea of it, I'd send my MB for RMA which I got it back yesterday of course with the claim that it had nothing wrong, well it doesn't have nothing wrong

but Gigabyte manage to erase Turbo Core from bios (F4)

well, I just have to RMA the CPU hoping of course that I would get a new one

Yeah, Well that is sad to hear. I am just trying to get the BIOS running. I bought everything new at newegg and it's almost like buying gym shoes from a mcdonalds.. They don't know much about the stuff they sell there and have no recommendation policy i think. I think you can get a new x6 replacement from newegg for up to 30 days.


----------



## Pullback

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
well

I don't know If I'm member of the club yet

cuz, I've posted questions a couple of weeks ago because I was having problems with my computer

anyway, my UD5 is intact but my 1055t is dead along with one stick of memory

How come?

Don't know exactly but I have a very good idea of it, I'd send my MB for RMA which I got it back yesterday of course with the claim that it had nothing wrong, well it doesn't have nothing wrong

but Gigabyte manage to erase Turbo Core from bios (F4)

well, I just have to RMA the CPU hoping of course that I would get a new one

Hey Chris,
Did you order the same memory that I ordered? The 4gb x 2 for 8gb? The Patriot website does not list our MOBO on the config ram page.


----------



## christoph

my ram is the same series, same color same sticker

but is the seris 'G' which is rated to run at 2000 MHz at 9-9-9

I wanted to try round 1700 at 7-7-7

wanted, cuz didn't have time to test, my computer died after 2 days of being working, I didn't even finished to install of my stuff


----------



## blur510

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
blur510: The slots on the motherboard are (from top to bottom) as follows:

a: PCIe 1x
b: PCIe 16x (runs 8x if "f" is populated)
c: PCIe 1x
d: PCIe 16x
e: PCIe 4x
f: PCIe 8x
g: PCI

Hope that helps. I currently run my HD 5970 on b, and my GT 240 (PhysX) on e.

thanks, I am currently running a 5970 on b. and a gtx 260 on f. but I am wondering if I can run my gtx 260 on b, my 5970 on d and another ATI card on f on xfire.(trifire or quadfire). I read somewhere that b should always be used as a prmary slot for graphics card.


----------



## christoph

but that would be just for performance when only one Video card is use

in bios you can choose what pci slot will be the primary slot for your video

in other words, yes you can do as you like, you just have to set in bios the primary video slot.


----------



## Blitz6804

Pullback: The HD 4350 should work fine to test if the GPU you had is bad. If it still does not boot properly, try putting it in a different PCIe slot to rule out the motherboard. Also try the Patriot memory in the blue slots to rule out the motherboard. Consider also trying a single DIMM of RAM, as it is rare for two DIMMs of a kit to be bad. (It is usually one only.) When you do actually get a new GPU, remember the GTS 250 = 9800 GTX+ = overclocked 9800/8800 GTX.

blur510: As christoph said, it should work fine as you asked. If you get a third GPU, you would want that in "f." I know myself that if I were to get an HD 5870, I would do the HD 5870 in b, the HD 5970 in d, and the PhysX in f. You definitely want your HD 5970 in d since b cuts to half bandwidth when f is populated.


----------



## blur510

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
but that would be just for performance when only one Video card is use

in bios you can choose what pci slot will be the primary slot for your video

in other words, yes you can do as you like, you just have to set in bios the primary video slot.

thanks thats awesome..


----------



## gooface

well this is bad, last night i set my computer to run furmark/prime95 and i wake up this morning, and it just ran for like 20 minutes, and the bonus (drumroll...) the PC wasnt on when I found it in the morning, it turned its self off, and I have all the thermal settings and stuff disabled in the bios, i didnt change any volts since i last ran it to test it, just the FSB, and it ran fine for hours and the temps were not bad at all.

also when i found my computer, it had a odd smell to it (hard to describe TBH) and so I ran stress tests again on it, took a shower, brushed my teeth, etc... and came back, and to my surprise the pc was off again, and this time with even a more stronger smell to it than the first time.

So my thought is its the PSU dying on me, what do you guys think?


----------



## blackalphabet

im gonna go with the stock blademaster fans that the heatsink came with.

also, would running the 9800GT on the mobo good enough for me till i get a 5770 ?
and which slot would i insert it into ?

also, with the two fans on the heatsink, would it be better to connect the pull fan directly into my psu? and plug the push fan into my cpu_fan header?

if not, would using a y splitter, to connect both fans into my 1 cpu_fan header?


----------



## akrein62

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Have a read here; http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...rclocking.html

Thanks for the link. I'm now up and running at 3.5 GHz!


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *akrein62*


Thanks for the link. I'm now up and running at 3.5 GHz!


No worries







.


----------



## crunchie

Anybody using G Skill 4G(2x2G) DDR3 2000Mhz PC16000 FLS 7-9-7-24-2N on their boards?
I have a set coming in the mail that I am going to play with. Just wanted to know if anyone has managed to run them at their rated frequency?


----------



## saint19

^Just install it and test it is the only way to know that


----------



## Pullback

It was the monitor and a bad stick.. I thought that display worked great and was sadly mistaken. Sorry gang.. I will be in touch and test out these 4 gig sticks for the clubhouse when I get the new pair and I will go for 16gb. I think I am missing the overclocker point for some reason though.. I need high speed graphics response on multi monitors and will embrace this thread whole heartedly..







I will tweak the thing over the weekend and tie off the cables and such.

Thanks gang! bbl


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
So my thought is its the PSU dying on me, what do you guys think?

Absolutely. This was actually my first though when we first started to diagnose your PC.


----------



## Salt-City_Slasher

I just got my rig built, and I am excited to see how high I can
get her cranked. I got the UD5 because I didn't have the cash for the the UD7 with the HAF-X.
But thanks for all those who have participated in making this forum, because there is a lot information for people who just got there board, like me!


----------



## saint19

Solid build salt-city_slasher and welcome to OCN.

I think that the 4.0GHz are possible for u


----------



## Metonymy

Blitz & Blueduck:

http://www.overclock.net/10706436-post2808.html

Any thoughts?


----------



## blackalphabet

for the UD5 board, when connecting a SATA DVD drive, do i plug it into sata_01 or sata_00 ? i current have my HDD (sata) connected to sata_00 .

where would i be connecting my exhaust fan to? which header?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


for the UD5 board, when connecting a SATA DVD drive, do i plug it into sata_01 or sata_00 ? i current have my HDD (sata) connected to sata_00 .


I suggest you use port 5 or 6 so that you can configure it separately if you need to. Other than that, there really is no difference.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


where would i be connecting my exhaust fan to? which header?


You can use either of the SYS fan headers, but they are not positioned close to the rear. Don't use the NB or CPU fan headers. I suggest you connect it directly to the PSU via molex.


----------



## blackalphabet

okay, what is the NB fan header for ?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


okay, what is the NB fan header for ?


You would use it if you attached a fan to the NB for additional cooling. However, with the superior heat dissipation of our motherboards already, I don't know anyone who actually uses it. I'm not sure how much power it puts out anyway.


----------



## blackalphabet

okay, here is my current progress, HDD plugged into sata_00 , DVD plugged into sata_05, hyper 212 fan spinning (doesnt seem to be spinning, gpu fan spinning, monitor plugged into the gpu via HDMI, ram are in slot _03 & _04 , mobo has accepted my HDD and DVD, it is now installing windows.

windows installation is a bit sluggish. before the menu that says

LANGUAGE: ENGLISH ,etc. it took about 5 mins to load? , screen finally bypassed, and it is at "Setup is Starting" been like that for about 5 mins. im sure this is a problem, suggestions please?

everything is out of case for testing.


----------



## blackalphabet

this is an update from my other post

windows 7 64-bit successful install
drivers installed from Gigabyte Motherboard CD successful install

in bios: i dont know anything about it! 
@ PC Health menu

these are my readings; this is out of case testing

Vcore: 1.344V
DDR3 1.5v: 1.52v
+3.3v: 3.392v
+12v: 12.239v
System Temp: 41 C
CPU Temp: 39-40 C
CPU Fan Speed: 1022-1025 rpm

about 20 mins later; away from bios screen ; on the windows desktop, using tools.

window system information check:









is there anything wrong with this ? if so, please do tell . if everything looks good, then whoopie for me ^^ .

edit: okay, maybe like 10 mins after the post, i plugged in my ethernet cord, and my internet connection was configured, etc.

then.... i just here a click, and the power on my motherboard is out, and my psu turns off. 
what do i do now -.-'' . i turned off my psu, and unplugged it, and unplugged it from the mobo for now.

any suggestions? please help

edit: an hour later, i'm at my friend's house, who is currently building his sig, and he's having trouble, but my story first.

i dont think its my motherboard (or it could be) , using my own psu (Antec Truepower 550w) , the board won't light.

i used my friend's psu, Corsair HX850w, and it boots up my motherboard, fan all rotating just fine. 
right after using the Corsair HX850w, i plug in my Antec PSU and it will light my motherboard, but when i press the power button, it turns off. and the Antec PSU does not light my motherboard anymore.

im guessing the PSU is bad?

help please


----------



## akrein62

Quote:



Originally Posted by *akrein62*


Thanks for the link. I'm now up and running at 3.5 GHz!


After being stable at 3.5 Ghz and only hitting 53C running Prime95, I figured I would try to go a little higher and at least try to hit 3.6 GHz, the Turbo Core speed of a stock 1090T. No dice. As soon as I raise the CPU frequency above 250 MHz it won't boot into Windows. It won't go through the Memory POST. In order to get the computer to get back into the BIOS I have to hit the clear CMOS button and start tweaking BIOS settings from scratch. I've tried adjusting the the CPU Voltage higher than what I need for 3.5 Ghz (1.290V), but it made no difference. I also tried increasing NB Voltage Control with no success. I gave up after several attempts as it's a pain in the backside to open up the case, hit the clear CMOS button and redo all of my stable BIOS settings.

Should I try increasing the DRAM Voltage Control? I currently have it set to 1.5V which is what it is rated for. Also, my RAM settings have been manually set to 9-9-9-24-2T per the stock ratings and the memory divider is set such that the memory clock is real close to the stock 1333Mhz.

I figure I will have to increase the CPU voltage some to get above 3.5Ghz, but with the boot process stopping at the memory check, I assume I need to make some kind of adjustment to the memory settings.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Could someone with a UD5 board and a 95W 1050T post their settings? I know all systems are a little different, but it would give me a starting point.

Thanks!


----------



## akrein62

In the 1055T overclocking guide there is a suggestion to increase CPU-NB voltage. In the UD5 BIOS, is this labelled NB-Voltage Control or CPU NB VID Control? Sure wish BIOSs had standardized naming conventions.


----------



## Blitz6804

akrein62: CPU NB VID Control is the CPU-NB Voltage. NB-Voltage Control is the 890FX. For DDR3-1333 with a 250 MHz HTT, that requires the use of the DDR3-1066 divider. The memory timings for that divider will be too tight when you get to DDR3-1333 speeds. What you have to do is set your HTT to 200, your divider to DDR3-1333. Reboot. Go back into the BIOS, and set TwTr, Trfc0-3, Write Recovery Time, Precharge Time, Row Cycle Time, and RAS to RAS Delay from "Auto" to whatever is shown in the SPD column. Then you set your HTT back to 250 and your divider back to DDR3-1066 and give that a shot.

blackalphabet: The only thing I see wrong is that you are using the Microsoft driver for your GPU. Get the nVidia driver, stat!


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
okay, what is the NB fan header for ?

I use it for the "pull" fan on my CPU cooler.


----------



## Pullback

This is amazing in some ways and confusing in others. I have been using a P4 for years and now I can run 3-4 virus scans and have 4 browsers open at the same time! The only thing is, Sometimes they start locking up and it can be hard to get away from that process. Still, overall it is 50 times faster than my well maintained P4! Thanks for all the help.. now it's time to add my quad card..
http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/pr...ies/g450x4mms/
Will let you know how it goes. The 4gb sticks are running great btw.. BBL.. will start reading the first few pages for good tests and things to do.

Is there an app that tells you the power consumption your PC is scooping from the wall?

- Cheers!


----------



## Pullback

Ahh heck.. I might as well toss this up in the open.. Gigabyte support for "Matrox G450x4 MMS" anyone? It's a 128mb PCI card I will be using.
It might be too slow though.. Anyhow, I am downloading a 64mb driver package and am praying the package delivers to the BIOS as well.

---- additional thoughts ----

The computer does not boot up with the matrox card alone. It must be removed in order to see bios screen. I imagine the motherboard would have to support the device, I might grab one of my Tritton USB display adapters and try sneaking in that way.. hehe.. Cheers to whoever has this issue in the future!


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have a UPS, you can do it. Otherwise, the only way I know of to test wattage from the outlet is with a Multimeter.


----------



## akrein62

Blitz6804 said:


> akrein62: CPU NB VID Control is the CPU-NB Voltage. NB-Voltage Control is the 890FX. For DDR3-1333 with a 250 MHz HTT, that requires the use of the DDR3-1066 divider. The memory timings for that divider will be too tight when you get to DDR3-1333 speeds. What you have to do is set your HTT to 200, your divider to DDR3-1333. Reboot. Go back into the BIOS, and set TwTr, Trfc0-3, Write Recovery Time, Precharge Time, Row Cycle Time, and RAS to RAS Delay from "Auto" to whatever is shown in the SPD column. Then you set your HTT back to 250 and your divider back to DDR3-1066 and give that a shot.
> 
> I tried all of this and it still won't boot to the memory test. I guess I'll be content with 3.5Ghz. Not too shabby.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> Andy


----------



## hesho

wait wait wait...

so.... for fan readings...

fanin0 = cpufan
fanin2 = sysfan1

anyone know the rest?

also, why the heck is my cpu fan sometimes spinning at 0rpms when idling sometimes?


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


blackalphabet: The only thing I see wrong is that you are using the Microsoft driver for your GPU. Get the nVidia driver, stat!


i was in the process of downloading the nVidia driver from my laptop and using a usb stick to bring it over and install, and it died on me before i could. just my luck =/ .

Refund of PSU: Antec Truepower New 550w

bought a new PSU: Corsair HX650w

fail PSU >:[

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


I use it for the "pull" fan on my CPU cooler.


i'm guessing, you would suggest that i plug my "pull" fan into the NB_FAN header? and plug my "push" fan into the CPU_FAN header? how would the NB_FAN header make a difference when using a 4 pin Y adapter to connect my push/pull fans into my CPU_FAN header?

explain please.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


i'm guessing, you would suggest that i plug my "pull" fan into the NB_FAN header? and plug my "push" fan into the CPU_FAN header? how would the NB_FAN header make a difference when using a 4 pin Y adapter to connect my push/pull fans into my CPU_FAN header?

explain please.


I use separate fan headers as I don't want to overload and burn out a header on the mobo.

Also, it allows for separate monitoring of the fans to ensure they're working properly.

Completely up to you how you want your setup to run though.


----------



## blackalphabet

can you tell me the purpose of the NB_FAN ? whats it really do, and from what im learning from you, it wont harm my cpu fan, just runs it like normal ?


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


can you tell me the purpose of the NB_FAN ? whats it really do, and from what im learning from you, it wont harm my cpu fan, just runs it like normal ?


It serves the same function as SYS_Fan1, SYS_Fan2, CPU_Fan. It's just a power header that you connect a fan to. It's labeled as the NB_Fan because of its location (close to the northbridge).

Some people use this header to power a case exhaust fan, some people put a fan on their northbridge, others like me use it as a secondary fan for their CPU cooler.

It's all about how you want your system set up.


----------



## christoph

hi guys

I'm trying to overvolt the CPU-NB a little bit

but everest shows there's no change on the voltage

so my question is, AM I actually overvolting the CPU-NB even though I have nothing where to check the changes?

what soft do you use to check all the voltages on the MB?


----------



## crunchie

Best place to check is back in the BIOS







. Save the settings then boot back into BIOS and see if they stuck.


----------



## hesho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
It serves the same function as SYS_Fan1, SYS_Fan2, CPU_Fan. It's just a power header that you connect a fan to. It's labeled as the NB_Fan because of its location (close to the northbridge).

Some people use this header to power a case exhaust fan, some people put a fan on their northbridge, others like me use it as a secondary fan for their CPU cooler.

It's all about how you want your system set up.









what do u use to monitor your fans?


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Metonymy* 
It serves the same function as SYS_Fan1, SYS_Fan2, CPU_Fan. It's just a power header that you connect a fan to. It's labeled as the NB_Fan because of its location (close to the northbridge).

Some people use this header to power a case exhaust fan, some people put a fan on their northbridge, others like me use it as a secondary fan for their CPU cooler.

It's all about how you want your system set up.









i see, i will try your method, and the y adapter method and see which one bests suits me hahas. thanks for the advice .


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
I'm trying to overvolt the CPU-NB a little bit
. . .
what soft do you use to check all the voltages on the MB?

I think AMD Overdrive might check that, but do not quote me on it. However, I would advise against installing it, because then it will take over voltage controls instead of your BIOS, resulting in rampant instability until you find out how to stop it from doing it. At least, that is what it did to me.


----------



## Metonymy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
what do u use to monitor your fans?

HWMonitor. It's awesome.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
i see, i will try your method, and the y adapter method and see which one bests suits me hahas. thanks for the advice .

Cool! Let me know how it turns out for you.


----------



## christoph

Thaks for reply

Actually the voltage remains as I input in the bios, the don't flash back to default

but nothing is showing the voltage but the stock, nor AMD overdrive

but since my 1055T die last week, I won't install AMD overdrive again, ever, I mean I don't know really if AMD overdrive is the one to blame but as is was running at the moment my CPU died, I won't take any chances anymore

anyway, can you check please with everest if your voltage changes?

in everest the voltage for the CPU keeps going up and down because C&Q, that means is reading from bios, but the voltage for CPU-NB won't move


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Metonymy*


HWMonitor. It's awesome.


hmm, well, the only thing i figure i think is that the mobo/software will NOT recognize kaze yun slim fans. They never show up in HWMonitor. No matter where i plug them in. I have 2 and tried plugging one in the NB_Fan and 1 and in the PWR_Fan. Both do not appear in HWMonitor yet they both are spinning. Ah well, just weird i guess.

I'm only using 1 of those fans though as i needed a thing fan so i could use my ram/HSF.


----------



## Marc-Olivier Beaudoin

Am I the only opne having problems installing the UD7 on a tray ? seams like it's a bit off and video card are 2-3 mm from where they should touch on the expansion slots .

Had to put them before screwing the mobo on the risers ( and the I/O shield would get in the way so I trew it away







) and the silent pipe couldn't fit so I just took it off ( silent pipe is a gimick I get the same temps on the NB with or without it though







)

At first I was thinking that the mountain mod tray was the cause but in the HAF X it'S doing the same thing.


----------



## blackalphabet

what does it mean when it's reading DDR3 DC : unganged ??

test: [ 7:51 PM @ Friday Night ]




























edit: test [8:58 AM @ Saturday Morning ] 
*note: left everything running over night.










does my system look alright? stability? and everything else? 
need your blessings ^^


----------



## hylong

Just wanted to report back that my system is working great with G. Skill Ripjaws series. Thanks for your suggestion!


----------



## Blitz6804

blackalphabet: Dual channel can work one of two ways:

Ganged: All cores are using both sets of memory in tandem for maximum speed. This is great when doing few tasks and will result in higher bandwidth in most test programs.

Unganged: Half the cores use one set of memory, half the cores use the other. This is great when doing tasks that have a multiplicity of threads or when doing more than one task at a time. As most bandwidth test programs are single threaded, you will almost universally see a lower bandwidth.

To All: Apparently, my computer is starting to dislike me. My RAM at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-18-1T-20 4-6-4-4 now blue screens. Instead now I am at DDR3-1333 6-7-7-20-1T-27 5-10-5-4. My bandwidth decreased by 200 MBps, 9850 MBps instead of 10,050 MBps, but if it is stable, I guess I will make do for now.


----------



## Pullback

I tried running 8 instances of sci fi flix (doctor who) in vlc and it worked alright for the most part.. Problem is I could close all the exe's out but could not reach my desktop. I switched the power on the back off after ctrl alt delete" did not work.. I then started booting into a pentium II speed environment.. I thought I had fried something! I restarted 2 times after that and still no luck. I hit system restore in msconfig and I THINK... I am back to normal! ?? Any thoughts on how to correct this without system restore? I can run any tests you guys tell me to and post screen shots.







perhaps this machine was made for a cozy speed and not for me to beat on per se..


----------



## Blitz6804

Sounds like Cool-n-Quiet got stuck. Are you using BIOS F3 or F4? If you have F1 or F2, update that.


----------



## Pullback

Thanks blitz.. brb
Also.. something called fluidsynth gets locked up often upon restart attempts.


----------



## Pullback

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Sounds like Cool-n-Quiet got stuck. Are you using BIOS F3 or F4? If you have F1 or F2, update that.

I am illiterate to an extent.. I could not see a bios version and sometimes my USB keyboard will work in BIOS and other times not. I will search youtube for a BIOS update vid or a thread somewhere on how to.. You might be able to tell from the screen shotsi posted.. Thanks again Blitz!


----------



## MrTG17

Hi, I'm new to this forum and am upgrading my system. I think I've narrowed down my mainboard choice to the GA-890FXA-UD5. I have a question for anyone who has purchased the board recently.
I'm probably going to order from NewEgg.com, and so was wondering if anybody on the forum has received version 2.1 of this board yet?
-Thanks


----------



## Pullback

OK Thanks, 89FXAU52.F4 is my new BIOS.. I unplugged and tasered the MOBO half way through the update for added power..

Anyhow, If there is anything else I can do to avoid that in the future, please let me know. I am tempted to try attacking the system once more to see if there are any improvements. I had better create a restore point first thugh, Cheers! will check back in a little later.


----------



## Pullback

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrTG17*


Hi, I'm new to this forum and am upgrading my system. I think I've narrowed down my mainboard choice to the GA-890FXA-UD5. I have a question for anyone who has purchased the board recently.
I'm probably going to order from NewEgg.com, and so was wondering if anybody on the forum has received version 2.1 of this board yet?
-Thanks


I got mine 3 days ago... it's rev 2.0 .. is there a huge difference?


----------



## Blitz6804

Rev 2.1 has all four DIMMs rated for DDR3-2000. Rev 2.0 has two rated for DDR3-1600, two rated for DDR3-1866+, and an unlock chip for turning lesser CPUs into greater ones. (Such as a quad to a hexacore.)

FluidSynth is used by VLC Media Player to play MIDI files.

Lastly, the "Mainboard" tab of your CPU-Z will give you the information on the motherboard such as BIOS version.


----------



## MrTG17

Not sure, All I can tell from the Gigabyte website is that the 2.1 version changed the locations of the memory slots slighlty:

Taken from the Rev 2.1 manual:
"The four DDR3 memory sockets are divided into two channels and each channel has two memory sockets as following: Channel 0: DDR3_1, DDR3_2 Channel 1: DDR3_3, DDR3_4"

....and from the Rev 2.0 manual:
"The four DDR3 memory sockets are divided into two channels and each channel has two memory sockets as following: Channel 0: DDR3_1, DDR3_3 Channel 1: DDR3_2, DDR3_4"

If you examine the board photos, Rev 2.1 has:
Slot1=Blue Slot2=White Slot3=Blue Slot4=White
where Rev 2.0 has:
Slot1=Blue Slot2=Blue Slot3=White Slot4=White

They also removed Note 2 from the Memory Section of the features in the Manual that read:
"(Note 2) To reach DDR3 1866 MHz or above, you must install two memory modules and install them in the DDR3_3 and DDR3_4 memory sockets."

There are also slight changes near the heatpipe bend between the NB and SB, where the Rev 2.1 is missing a couple of chips that are present in that spot on the Rev 2.0 board.

The Rev 2.1 board has silkscreened text "Core Boost" next to the ATI logo by the SB, where the Rev 2.0 board says "ON/OFF Charge" in that same spot.

Gigabyte doesn't really say much as to what changed from Rev 2.0 to Rev 2.1. I did notice that the BIOS releases for Rev 2.0 span from F1, F2, F3, F4. But the first BIOS release for the Rev 2.1 board starts at F3 and goes to F4.

Anyone else know more about the differences?


----------



## MrTG17

Blitz6804....does that imply that Rev 2.1 boards can't perform core unlock?


----------



## Blitz6804

That I do not know. I would have thought the SB850 could do it if the SB750 could. However, I see no ACC option in the BIOS, so it is in fact possible.


----------



## MrTG17

Looking thru the BIOS pages in the manual does show under Advanced BIOS Features something titled "Core Unlock", so maybe it still has the ability?


----------



## MrTG17

From the Manual....

"CPU Unlock (Note)
Allows you to determine whether to unlock hidden CPU cores. (Default: Disabled)"


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrTG17*


Hi, I'm new to this forum and am upgrading my system. I think I've narrowed down my mainboard choice to the GA-890FXA-UD5. I have a question for anyone who has purchased the board recently.
I'm probably going to order from NewEgg.com, and so was wondering if anybody on the forum has received version 2.1 of this board yet?
-Thanks


I received a v2.0 from newegg and I'm now trying to RMA with Gigabyte since its past 30days. My ethernet ports are acting up and once in a while windows xp will fail to load certain devices - like usb ports. These are common reviews for the board on Newegg.


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
blackalphabet: Dual channel can work one of two ways:

Ganged: All cores are using both sets of memory in tandem for maximum speed. This is great when doing few tasks and will result in higher bandwidth in most test programs.

Unganged: Half the cores use one set of memory, half the cores use the other. This is great when doing tasks that have a multiplicity of threads or when doing more than one task at a time. As most bandwidth test programs are single threaded, you will almost universally see a lower bandwidth.

which would be better in having my ram in "Ganged" or "Unganged" ?

and i'm not able to enter my bios, my keyboard is inactive during boot up, i have tried spamming and pressing it. what is the solution?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
which would be better in having my ram in "Ganged" or "Unganged" ?

Unganged


----------



## Blitz6804

99 times out of 100, "Unganged" is the better choice. If your keyboard will not let you access the BIOS, try a different USB port. If that does not work still, get a PS2 keyboard, and ensure "USB Legacy Function" is set to "Enabled." When "Disabled," USB devices may not function until the operating system is loaded.


----------



## Pullback

Just thought to throw this out there. My Matrox quad card was not letting me boot with a PCIe card installed. I then installed a Tritton VGA adapter and set it as primary and was able to install the drivers for the Matrox PCI card that was interfering before. I should also mention that those VGA adapters usually suck on most systems. However on this beast.. they are great.. not perfect.. just great for what they are. The signal will always look like crap but the time delay is very minute compared to it on a P4 or older PC. 6 cores rock!


----------



## blackalphabet

results : incase test, system left on overnight, to just run










i have my exhaust fan plugged into my pwr_fan header, and my "pull" fan plugged into my nb_fan header, and my "push" fan plugged into my cpu_fan header. my front fan & side fan are connected thru a molex.

how is everything looking for my rig? anything wrong with it?


----------



## Blitz6804

That was idling overnight? That is, your idle temp is thus 36Âº C as displayed in Coretemp? What is your ambient temperature? To me, 36Âº C idle seems warm for a 3.2 GHz quad. (My 3.6 GHz quad idled around 31Âº C.)


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
That was idling overnight? That is, your idle temp is thus 36Âº C as displayed in Coretemp? What is your ambient temperature? To me, 36Âº C idle seems warm for a 3.2 GHz quad. (My 3.6 GHz quad idled around 31Âº C.)

yeah it was idling overnight, it was in the middle of installing MW2 , but it stopped, whenever it asked for Disc 2. i dont think my side fan was running at the time, because i woke up, and i had to push the side panel so that the pin connected, and my side fan started to spin.

what is ambient temperature? i'm new to all this . please help ^^, just tell me what kind of information i need to show you and how to get it, and i'll find it and post it. thanks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
get a PS2 keyboard, and ensure "USB Legacy Function" is set to "Enabled." When "Disabled," USB devices may not function until the operating system is loaded.

i got into bios using a PS2 keyboard as you said, and "USB Legacy Function" is/was enabled, and i left it enabled. , i even tried plugging my usb keyboard into a PS2 adapter and it still did not work.

is it cause my BIOS version is only at F1 ?

edit: okay, i got the keyboard to work to go into bios. idk what the problem was, but it works now.


----------



## hesho

how come coretemp isn't showing the CnQ (800mhz) core speed? Isn't that the point of CnQ?

When i see CPUz saying 800, your temps are higher for idle usage IMHO. What is your cooler anyway?


----------



## blackalphabet

hyper 212+ push/pull .

where would it show me the CnQ ?


----------



## Blitz6804

Ambient temperature = temperature inside the case near the CPU cooler. Usually people report room temperature, which is certainly close enough, even if not as pertinent.


----------



## hesho

actually, when i look at the pic again, i'm guessing that cpuz hasn't updated yet since there is a 10% load on each of the core.

i'm with blitz though, your idle temps seems high... I have the same cooler with a x3 unlocked and it runs at 3.36. Before i used CnQ, i idled at 32c. With CnQ, i idle at 29c now.

I'm more curious what your idle will be with the side fan working though, that might lower it a bit.


----------



## christoph

Hi guys

I've ask before, here in this same thread but got no answer

what you guys use to monitor Voltages like CPU and CPU-NB for this MB? , other than Everest and CPU-Z or HWmonitor cuz none of these shows the CPU-NB voltage


----------



## VectorThorn

Hi guys, i actually just now joined this site because of an issue that i'm having with this motherboard. I was wondering if ANYONE here might be able to help me with this. I've already got a thread here ( http://forums.fedoraforum.org/showthread.php?t=251724 ) that explains my problem, but we'll keep the topic on overclock.net...

ANY help is appreciated!


----------



## Blitz6804

You were answered christoph. By three people.


----------



## blackalphabet

okay, i screwed on the side panel, and all fans are functional .










yeah it seems my core temp is high, could it be that i didn't install the push/pull fan right? and the fans aren't blowing?


----------



## Blitz6804

What temperature is it in your room right now?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
okay, i screwed on the side panel, and all fans are functional .

yeah it seems my core temp is high, could it be that i didn't install the push/pull fan right? and the fans aren't blowing?

Silly question, but the fans are blowing the same way, yes?


----------



## VectorThorn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
You were answered christoph. By three people.

I couldn't find anything he said relating to this issue:
http://www.overclock.net/search.php?searchid=6178368

I'll just read every single post for all 200 pages to see if i can find what you are talking about......

EDIT:
Sorry, man, i misread what you said... You weren't even talking to me. I thought you were replying to my question here: http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...l#post10751162

...


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know why the BIOS and the RAID utility do not match, they do not match here either. I personally have my RAID 10 in the first four ports, and my data drive next to that. The optical drives are on the SATA-II ports. You could put your Blu-Ray and Linux drive on the SATA-II ports, and the other two pair on the SATA-III ports furthest from the SATA-II. This is what I would do, personally. Also, when I install grub, I make sure only my "primary" drive is installed in the system. It likes to install itself on unintended drives.


----------



## VectorThorn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
... Also, when I install grub, I make sure only my "primary" drive is installed in the system. It likes to install itself on unintended drives.

Me also.

I will try what you said (which makes complete sense). Are you using Native IDE mode for slot_6 and slot_7 (SATA2)? Thanks. I'll report my findings shortly.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am using the following:

SATA Type: RAID
SATA Port 4/5: As SATA
RAID 5: Disabled
SATA3.0: Enabled
GSATA: IDE
ESATA: IDE

I tried setting GSATA to RAID, but I could not recognize any hard drive plugged into it so configured.


----------



## VectorThorn

Hmmmm, i switched them around in the order you mentioned and now i don't even get a post screen. I hold delete to get into CMOS setup, but since post doesn't finish i never get to the next screen. Oh, wait, it just did something..........

One thing that stumps me is WHY they would have sata0 and sata2 appear as channel 0 (when they are on 2 different bays), and sata1 and sata3 appear as channel 1 (when they are also on 2 different bays), and yet sata4 and sata5 appear as channel 2 (and they are on the SAME bay). That just does NOT make any sense.

Anyway, i'm going to disconnect the sata 2 slots, get back into CMOS, change the settings as you show, and plug them back in and report back....

Thanx

Also, how the hell do you reset the CMOS? I see the blue light that looks like a button, but it doesn't give way when i press it...


----------



## Blitz6804

It has a protective plastic cap to prevent accidental pushing. Remove the cap, hit the button, put back the cap. Or, alternatively, you can manually short the jumper. (Which I find easier given the location of my HD 5970. Just tap a screwdriver to the open pins to the right of the front panel connectors.)


----------



## VectorThorn

I tried it, and now some of my drives will not show on post some times, and some times they will. The f12 key doesn't respond 9 out of 10 times now, and when it does, it doesn't even show my blu-ray drive as a boot option, even though it always shows up in the post screen, so now i can't try to reinstall Fedora, or rebuild the grub loader. I'm just going to have to take this board back tomorrow and exchange it for another brand. This is a nightmare. I've spent 1,400$ building this thing, and lost 3 days of work, and my clients are getting p*ssed...


----------



## Blitz6804

That is an easy fix. Set it to have a 1-2 second pause on HDD detection. Some drives are slower to react than others (such as my Hitachi) and a one second pause makes it be found every time.


----------



## VectorThorn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
That is an easy fix. Set it to have a 1-2 second pause on HDD detection. Some drives are slower to react than others (such as my Hitachi) and a one second pause makes it be found every time.

And here comes the noob question: How? I don't see that option...

Thanx


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Silly question, but the fans are blowing the same way, yes?


yeah, the "coolmaster" label are both facing the exhaust fan .

room temperature? um, well i dont got a thermometer, but just your average room temperature?


----------



## Blitz6804

blackalphabet: So the push, the pull, and the exhaust fall all pull the same way then? You see the frames (this side) pointing toward the back and the spindles pointing at you correct?

VectorThorn: When you first get to the BIOS, press Ctrl+F1, then go to "Advanced BIOS features." I believe it is directly below the SMART setting if I remember right.


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
blackalphabet: So the push, the pull, and the exhaust fall all pull the same way then? You see the frames (this side) pointing toward the back and the spindles pointing at you correct?

VectorThorn: When you first get to the BIOS, press Ctrl+F1, then go to "Advanced BIOS features." I believe it is directly below the SMART setting if I remember right.

yeah, the side that you are showing me, are both facing the front of the case.


----------



## I love xD

Noob question!

Just got this mobo today and I was wondering what is the maximum number of graphics cards it can take. From related searches it seems 1x 5970 and 1x 5870 is max and 2x 5970s are out of the question (but are impractical scaling-wise anyways). Can anyone confirm?

Also, 2x 460s will work, yes?

Thanks =D


----------



## hesho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
yeah, the side that you are showing me, are both facing the front of the case.

ummm..... if u have the same CM fan as i do, the pic that blitz is showing, that direction should be facing the back of the case, not the front... 1 should be facing the back of the case, the other should also be facing the back of the case with the heatsink in front.

I do believe on the CM fan, there is actually an arrow that shows direction of airflow as well.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *I love xD* 
Noob question!

Just got this mobo today and I was wondering what is the maximum number of graphics cards it can take. From related searches it seems 1x 5970 and 1x 5870 is max and 2x 5970s are out of the question (but are impractical scaling-wise anyways). Can anyone confirm?

Also, 2x 460s will work, yes?

Thanks =D

Excellent choice and welcome to the club. The mobo support 3-Way Crossfire @8x.

Now the mobo comes with AMD chipset (890FX) that only support Crossfire by default if u want SLI u need hack the mobo with the patch.


----------



## Blitz6804

I love xD: You cannot presently use GTX 460 SLI on this motherboard, or any ATi motherboard. The newest driver (required for GTX 460 usage) is not yet supported by the hack. Based purely on the numbers (the PCIe slots being 16 (8x), 16x, 4x, 8x) I would posit you could run a four-card Crossfire setup if you can find a single-width bridge. Otherwise, three cards in an 8 / 16 / 8 would be the most I could see. If you want HD 5970x2, you can do it: PCIe16x_1 and PCIe16x_2. Do NOT install a PhysX card in PCIe8x, as that cuts the bandwidth of PCIe16x_1 in half to 8x. (If you want PhysX, go HD 5870/5970 in _1 and _2 respectively.)

blackalphabet: As hesho said, the push fan, the pull fan, and the case exhaust fan should all have that pointing toward the rear. The easiest way to test? Grab a sheet of loose leaf and stick it in front of your CPU cooler, it should try to suck the paper in. Then put it behind the CPU cooler, it should blow it away. Then put it in the back of the case, it should blow it away.


----------



## VectorThorn

Ok guys, i know that this isn't something that anyone in this thread wants to hear, but i broke down and switched to an ASUS ( http://www.google.com/search?q=Asus+...TX+Motherboard ), and as soon as i powered it on, it started booting Fedora. But what is odd is that the sata order that the bios was using on the Gigabyte board is the SAME order that is PRINTED on the ASUS board (it was printed and documented incorrectly on the gigabyte board). The drives show up in order in CMOS on the ASUS board*; however, when it boots, it reads them in a WEIRD order, AND Fedora sees them in a different order!

I give up. There must be something about these new boards that i just didn't read about. I must be missing something somewhere. But at least i've got a working system. It just seems to me that if the motherboard says that the order is "sata1,sata2,sata3...", and you plug your drives in that order, then they should SHOW UP in that order, in both CMOS and the OS... I just don't get it... It really urks me to install my OS to "/dev/sdd", when the drive is in the first sata slot, AND CMOS shows it as being the first drive*.

Thanks for your help, Blitz; it's much appreciated.

* one of the two CMOS screens show it right, and one shows it wrong. I don't know why there would be a difference...


----------



## Blitz6804

My primary drive has always been sdb or sdc in every Linux distro I have ever tried over six different motherboards. I take it that they just do not want me to be sda like most HowTo's show.


----------



## VectorThorn

Wow, i've never had that issue before. I know that sata is not the same as ide, and that the order really isn't significant, as long as you have the right drive selected in CMOS as the primary drive; but i'm kinda OCD about uniformity, order, and sequence, so this really eats at me.

Oh well, welcome to the next generation of motherboards...


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


ummm..... if u have the same CM fan as i do, the pic that blitz is showing, that direction should be facing the back of the case, not the front... 1 should be facing the back of the case, the other should also be facing the back of the case with the heatsink in front.

I do believe on the CM fan, there is actually an arrow that shows direction of airflow as well.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


blackalphabet: As hesho said, the push fan, the pull fan, and the case exhaust fan should all have that pointing toward the rear. The easiest way to test? Grab a sheet of loose leaf and stick it in front of your CPU cooler, it should try to suck the paper in. Then put it behind the CPU cooler, it should blow it away. Then put it in the back of the case, it should blow it away.



well, my fans aren't sucking or blowing that hard for paper to get sucked in or blown away . but let me clarify this for myself, and i'm sure i got the fans facing the wrong direction

i have this "face"







, both fans are pointing towards my exhaust .

and i have this "face"







, both fans are pointing towards the front.

i have it backwards huh?


----------



## Blitz6804

Let's try it this way:

|case| <=exahust== <=pullfan== |cooler| <=pushfan==

Stickers are on the side with the <= in most fans, the open-ended side is the ==.

If a sheet of looseleaf is too heavy, grab a facial tissue. Just something to confirm the airflow.


----------



## crunchie

The concave face of the fan blade is the 'blow' side and the convex face of the fan blade is where the air is drawn in, therefore both fans need to have the concave side facing the rear of the case.
Attachment 173299
Picture above shows the 'suck' side, so that face needs to face the front of the case on all 3 fans (rear case exhaust included).


----------



## blackalphabet

okay, both fans are blowing towards the rear of the case, and i confirmed it with a piece of paper. i did have it in wrong =P , now it's fixed. my cpu is staying at an average of 35 C , is that suppose to be? it was going <=== [rear fan] | [push fan ] ===> 212 [pull fan] ===> [front of case]

hahas, now it's going <=== [rear fan] <=== [pull fan] <212> <=== [push fan] | [front]


----------



## Blitz6804

That would be why you were warm: the exhaust fan was depriving the cooler of air. What do you load up to now? 35Âº C?


----------



## blackalphabet

yeah 35 C , 34 LOW & 36 HIGH


----------



## Baio73

Waiting for my new Mushkin RAM, I've clocked the CPU up to 4.00GHz with 1.475 VCore; tested ok with a 10h of OCCT Linpack.
Now here come the questions:
1) CnQ does not function anylonger... what can I do to lower the CPU clock and Vcore when it's not needed?
2) What am I supposed to clock next, the NB? Which are the parameters to stay within (Volt, speed)?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## saint19

Hi Baio73 and welcome to OCN.

1- The only way that I think for that is underclock the CPU as u want.
2- I used my NB to 2600-2800 with 1.3V, but u should start to test in little steps for stability.


----------



## Blitz6804

I used to use K10stat when my DFI did not permit overclocking with Cool 'n' Quiet. It is a bit hard to figure out (partially give the broken translation on the readme) but once you do, it is very powerful software.


----------



## blackalphabet

Test: 9.21.10 [9 hour idle test]

results:









how is my system stats? does it look like it's running well? please do tell me if anything is wrong, or if you need to see some other stats that's not in the picture.


----------



## Blitz6804

NOW it looks like it is cooling right. 27Âº C for Cool 'n' Quiet is right on the money.


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


NOW it looks like it is cooling right. 27Âº C for Cool 'n' Quiet is right on the money.


thanks to you for making me realize i installed my fans backwards, if you didnt say anything i would have kept it like that ^^

and thanks to everyone who helped me get it right


----------



## Baio73

Saint 19: ok, I'm gonna make some step-by-step test.

Blitz6804: Does K10stat work with X6 CPUs? Has anyone experience with PhenomMsrTweaker?

Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not yet tried K10stat, if you do not wish to experiment I can try firing it up an get back to you. If you tell me what your exact overclock is, I can try to preconfigure it for you and just send you a config file when done.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I have not yet tried K10stat, if you do not wish to experiment I can try firing it up an get back to you. If you tell me what your exact overclock is, I can try to preconfigure it for you and just send you a config file when done.

Wow, thanks a lot!








At the moment I'm simply running it @200x20 with 1.475v Vcore, had no time to test he NB.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, trying to play with it, first I notice my K10stat is out of date. You need 1.41 to have any hope of using it. I also forgot about boost, and the fact that B0 comes before P0 was confusing me. But now I think I got it figured out again... with a catch: only 4 of the six cores have a GUI to adjust them. I might need to use the GUI to adjust four of them, and then manually force the other two to behave.

EDIT: After poking through the readme, I found out how to do it. I now have access to all six cores.


----------



## christoph

the K10stat or whatever soft, can manage the CPU-NB too?

I want to try with either one of those, which one should choose?


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
the K10stat or whatever soft, can manage the CPU-NB too?

I want to try with either one of those, which one should choose?

I think both can handle NB volts and multiplier; my doubt was if K10stat works with X6 CPU as I know it didn't when they first appeared... maybe now there is a new full compatible release.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## christoph

ok then

I'll get to know it

wanna see if works using multiplier or HTT

whats the main website of the K10stats software?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Anybody using G Skill 4G(2x2G) DDR3 2000Mhz PC16000 FLS 7-9-7-24-2N on their boards?
I have a set coming in the mail that I am going to play with. Just wanted to know if anyone has managed to run them at their rated frequency?

For those wanting to know. I got the RAM in the mail today and just popped them in before hitting the sack.
Set them straight to their factory specs of 7-9-7-24-1T @ 1.65v 2000Mhz. Cpu-nb I put straight to 1.35v (don't have time to fiddle 'cos it's past my bedtime), cpu @ 3500Mhz and F10'd out.
Boot up with no problems at all. Ran a quick Wprime and got a couple of screenies.
I will be attempting to fine tune this over the weekend and see how it runs @ 4000Mhz.
Attachment 173577
Attachment 173578

Might want to add these Flares to the recommended memory chart







.


----------



## shaddix

Any idea where to get the drivers for the gigaraid controller? I hear it's a jmicron controller? There's nothing listed on gigabyte's website except for the boot drivers that are used to make windows xp recognize it for install. But none for windows 7 x64.


----------



## Blitz6804

K10Stat is available here. Version 1.41 is required for hexacore processors. To access Cores 4/5, you have to click on the text of the other four cores, and it will flip pages. K10stat can adjust CPU-NB voltage, CPU voltage, and CPU multiplier. While there is a display of NB, it cannot (and in fact, I have never been able to make it) adjust the NB multiplier.

The biggest thing to look out for with K10stat: the voltages are in relation to STOCK. The VID for a 1090T it thinks is 1.325 V. If I have my BIOS set to 1.400 V, and then set K10Stat for 1.400 V, it will give my CPU 1.475 V (confirmed via CPU-Z) as 1.400 V + (1.400 V - 1.325 V) = 1.475 V. This also applies to the CPU-NB voltage.

The nice thing is that you can finally get the voltages down, I do not know if it is a Gigabyte issue, or a 1090T issue, but to me, voltages seem high. My x4 940 on the DFI defaulted to 1.325 V at 15x, 1.225 V at 10x, 1.100 V at 7x, and 0.950 V at 4x. By comparison, my 1090T on the Gigabyte defaults to 1.325 V at 16x, 1.300 V at 12x 1.275 V at 8x, and 1.200 V at 4x. Can users of non-Thubans (on F3) confirm these high voltages to see if that is a Gigabyte issue or a Thuban issue?


----------



## christoph

I was wondering if someone's using Turbo core as a overclock step or phase or whatever you can call it

I mean, set Turbo core to clock the cpu to the already tested overclock, lets say 4.0 GHz

the thing with this MB (at least my own) is that apparently when Turbo core comes in use, raises the HTT by 20 MHz, like 220 x 15 = 300, and the problem is that overlcocks even more the CPU-NB along with the RAM

maybe is just my MB or that's why no one is using it, cuz I haven't read about the use of turbo core around here


----------



## crunchie

Problem with doing that is Turbo only boosts 3 cores.

AFAIK only the multiplier is raised.


----------



## christoph

right

with AMD overdrive you can boost all the cores, but no one likes Overdrive

in my MB, HTT gets raised by turbo core, I have check it several times with Everest


----------



## crunchie

Ok. I have cpu running @ 4Ghz, cpu-nb @ 2750Mhz and memory @ 2000Mhz.
Seems to be pretty good so I ran the Everest Cache and Memory Benchmark.
Popped up a screenie, so if anyone has any comparisons, that would be great







.
Attachment 173767


----------



## Blitz6804

12 GBps! EPIC! The best I have done thus far is about 10.5 GB. (DDR3-1600 CL7.)


----------



## icekreme1002

Hey guys,
I have been stalking around this thread for the last couple of weeks as a happy GA-890FXA-UD5 owner and first off woulld love to say a massive thanks to everyone who has shared info on problems and overclocks with theis board. It has made my own overclock so so much easier 

I first started with a black 720 brisbane. However, even though i was able to unlock the 4th core on my old GA-MA770T-UD3P, no luck on this baby. (mine is rev 2.0)

"That just wont do!" I thought, so sold my 720 for more than i paid for it (yay ebay) and was out of pocket $60 for a 1055t Whooo!

So the overclock really began today.

I dont know who actually posted this, or what page it was but these settings made my begining much easier. I wasnt able to get much over, but that probably because of 4 sticks of ram.

So to help the latest readinging beginers, to start try....
You can turn off cool and quite, but the below settings work fine for me with it on.

Turn off = performance boost, and C1E
Speeds = Ref @ 280mhz CPU x 14, NB x 10, HT x 10, RAM x 5.33,
Volts =NB @ 1.19v, HT @1.22v, NB-VID @ 1.30v, CPU @ 1.4v

That worked straight off for me, and as much as I rasied volts on everything, and lowered NB and HT multi, I couldnt push the cpu much higher. I ended up with ref @ 282mhz and CPU volts up'd to 1.425v (prolly not worth it) but 6 hours prime stable so far.
When I oc'd the ram (below) i had to raise CPU-NB to 1.325v, and NB to 1.220v. I assume these settings will be ram specific?

So the next goal was the get the best out of the ram...
I am using 4x2gb sticks of this F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ and with the 5.33 multi ends up at 1503mhz. I was unable to get to 1800+mhz even at 1.71v on the ram even at stock timings with an increased Trfc for DIMM's up to 160ns.
Link to Ram http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=88

So i ended up with 6-8-8-21-1t-30 timings at 1.65v. This has only been run through test 5 of memtest86 3 times so is far from confirmed stable (gotta finish prime95 1st) But so far so good.

Tempting to try those eco sticks you guys are having so much luck with, but i dont think the slight increase is really worth the cost to me atm.

The last thing I will add is relevent to those wondering about the effects of pci-e X8 vs pci-e x 16 on a 4890 series card...

i read the post about when slot "f" is used, the 1st PCI-E x16 becomes PCI-E x8. I had my tv tuner in that slot :-(.
So i changed it to the top PCI-E x1 slot.
The difference in 3dmark06 and vantage was less than 50pts between x8 and x16 so pretty much 0.
For me the TV card works better in slot F to keep more air flowing around the 4890. So i guess its not til you go a 5000 series or crossfire that the pci-e speed will really matter.

End of essay!!!

So a big thanks again to everyone that made my oc so much easier!
Hopefully I have helped make some elses easier to!

Now off to do my signature!


----------



## Blitz6804

An HD 4890 is not really affected much by the cut in bandwidth. It only becomes pertinent with an HD 5970 or a GTX 460 (or better). Even an HD 5870 will only record a 1% performance hit, whereas the HD 5970 is upwards in the low double digits. Hence why I say people wanting HD 5870/5970 trifire should use the HD 5870 in PCIe16x_1 and the HD 5970 in PCIex_2.


----------



## icekreme1002

Yeah cheers Blitz!
I had read it does 0 to 4000 series cards, but like a lot of people, im not happy unless i check. 
Now all I need is a 6000 series! itching to get rid of this noisy 4890....


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Ok. I have cpu running @ 4Ghz, cpu-nb @ 2750Mhz and memory @ 2000Mhz.
Seems to be pretty good so I ran the Everest Cache and Memory Benchmark.
Popped up a screenie, so if anyone has any comparisons, that would be great







.
Attachment 173767



be careful with that RAM at 2000 MHz

2 weeks ago I'd put my ram at 2000 and my cpu died along with one stick of ram


----------



## crunchie

No worries







. Anything over 1333Mhz is a risk anyway with these, so it's only a matter of %







.
I will be trying it @ lower frequencies and tighter timings to see where the sweet spot is later today.


----------



## shaddix

Well I downloaded some gigaraid drivers for an x58 board and they worked fine. Previous to that though I emailed gigabyte technical support about it asking for drivers. They responded just now and I think you guys will get a kick out of it.

Read from bottom to top:


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
No worries







. Anything over 1333Mhz is a risk anyway with these, so it's only a matter of %







.
I will be trying it @ lower frequencies and tighter timings to see where the sweet spot is later today.


I think the spot to look for is 1600 7-7-7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
Well I downloaded some gigaraid drivers for an x58 board and they worked fine. Previous to that though I emailed gigabyte technical support about it asking for drivers. They responded just now and I think you guys will get a kick out of it.



ahhh but then what you're looking for is the driver for windows to recognize the HHD, you can find it at the AMD webpage, between the Video cards drivers


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
I think the spot to look for is 1600 7-7-7

We shall see


----------



## Blitz6804

I argue it would be DDR3-1333 CL5. The tightest I have gotten so far is CL6 however.


----------



## crunchie

Just wondering what the Flares I have might do at 1600 if they do cas7 @ 2000Mhz?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I argue it would be DDR3-1333 CL5. The tightest I have gotten so far is CL6 however.

1333 cl5 would be perfect but there's none that can do that, at leats for now

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
Just wondering what the Flares I have might do at 1600 if they do cas7 @ 2000Mhz?


my ram rate is 2000 9-9-9, but cannot do 1600 7-7-7, don't even boot


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, if crunchie's DDR3-2000 does CL7, whereas mine do CL7 at DDR3-1600, I would posit that his should get close to CL5 since mine can do CL6. If that makes any sense.


----------



## crunchie

I've got a set of DDR RAM here that does DDR600 2.5-4-4-10 or DDR400 2-2-2-5 so hopefully these Flares are as flexible


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
I've got a set of DDR RAM here that does DDR600 2.5-4-4-10 or DDR400 2-2-2-5 so hopefully these Flares are as flexible










***???


----------



## shaddix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
ahhh but then what you're looking for is the driver for windows to recognize the HHD, you can find it at the AMD webpage, between the Video cards drivers

Well I have the one for the AMD SB sata controller. THe one I was requesting from gigabyte is for their secondary sata controller chip. Those two white sata ports on the mobo aren't controlled by the AMD SB. Installing the gigabyte drivers for the x58 board I downloaded off softpedia or something allowed W7 to recognize my raid array on those two white ports.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
Well I have the one for the AMD SB sata controller. THe one I was requesting from gigabyte is for their secondary sata controller chip. Those two white sata ports on the mobo aren't controlled by the AMD SB. Installing the gigabyte drivers for the x58 board I downloaded off softpedia or something allowed W7 to recognize my raid array on those two white ports.

ohhhh ok,ok

I thought every port on this MB were supported by windows 7

anyway, hope Gigabyte gets us drivers inteads of looking for it our self


----------



## shaddix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
ohhhh ok,ok

I thought every port on this MB were supported by windows 7

anyway, hope Gigabyte gets us drivers inteads of looking for it our self

Well they work fine in ide or ahci, but when you try to set them up in raid it won't recognize them. Shows up as ATA Channel 0 and ATA Channel 1 in device manager with the yellow exclamation point.


----------



## blackalphabet

OC at 3.62 but core temps aren't registering to CPU-Z or HWMonitor

any ideas?










CnQ - DISABLED
CE1 - DISABLED

Power Consumption: High Performance


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
Well they work fine in ide or ahci, but when you try to set them up in raid it won't recognize them. Shows up as ATA Channel 0 and ATA Channel 1 in device manager with the yellow exclamation point.


wait, is not that one posted on the Gigabyte driver download website?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...17&dl=1#driver


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
Well they work fine in ide or ahci, but when you try to set them up in raid it won't recognize them. Shows up as ATA Channel 0 and ATA Channel 1 in device manager with the yellow exclamation point.

This explains why I could not test my WD80s in RAID 0 before I shipped them. Good call!


----------



## hylong

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
Well they work fine in ide or ahci, but when you try to set them up in raid it won't recognize them. Shows up as ATA Channel 0 and ATA Channel 1 in device manager with the yellow exclamation point.

Please provide the link to this driver. I'm also using these 2 white ports for RAID 0 with my 2 velociRaptor. Win7 would not recognize for OS boot-up; however, it's set for project rendering in Adobe premiere. The question is whether I'm really getting the benefit speed boost. Thanks in advance!


----------



## preorded

Hi everyone

I got a serious problem, my new system is based on the gigabyte 890fx ud5. I am using the asus xonar dx soundcard but when I'm using it the sound pop,click and stutter. When I tried the to use the built in soundsystem on the motherbord I experienced the same problem. When I'm using DPC_latency checker I spike up to about 3000us.

I'm using the F3 bios and window 7 64bit, every driver is up to date. Do anyone here got any idea how I can fix this problem?

/Mike


----------



## Blitz6804

Did you install EasyTune6? If so, uninstall it to see if that fixes the problem.

Also, adding your system to your profile can be helpful in future.


----------



## preorded

Uninstalling EasyTune6 didn't make any difference







, when I have googled this issue some say that installing microsoft uaa could help but could it be a bios issue? Thinking of going back to the F2 bios or even try the F4. I have no clue what to do...


----------



## Blitz6804

The issue you describe is common with EasyTune6. Either make sure it is entirely uninstalled, or try BIOS F4. F4 was created to fix the EasyTune6 problems. However, F4 causes problems in some peoples' systems. (Other report being able to reduce voltages for equal clocks.)


----------



## tehmaggot

I'll likely be getting a UD5 tomorrow from Microcenter since the Crosshair 4 is out of stock







I was really wanting the Crosshair 4, but I figure the UD5 will OC just as well, if not better.


----------



## shaddix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hylong* 
Please provide the link to this driver. I'm also using these 2 white ports for RAID 0 with my 2 velociRaptor. Win7 would not recognize for OS boot-up; however, it's set for project rendering in Adobe premiere. The question is whether I'm really getting the benefit speed boost. Thanks in advance!

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...px?pid=3450#dl

that's the page for the x58a-ud5 board but the driver "GIGABYTE SATA2 Driver1.17.54.13.33 MB2010/04/29" works perfect for me on our boards lol.

For some reason it isn't listed on the 890fxa-ud5 driver page. Probably just an oversight by web admin.


----------



## Blitz6804

For those interested in K10stat, I found my initial review / howto on it.


----------



## preorded

It seems I got my asus xonar dx soundcard to work, if it is the f4 bios or got the drivers to work properly I dont know. Been an annyoing evening that is for sure, dpclat show some high numbers still but I can play and watch movies for now anyways







. That maybe change tomorrow if my bad luck with this new system continues. Anyway thanks for a great forum and the help.

/Mike


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shaddix* 
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...px?pid=3450#dl

that's the page for the x58a-ud5 board but the driver "GIGABYTE SATA2 Driver1.17.54.13.33 MB2010/04/29" works perfect for me on our boards lol.

For some reason it isn't listed on the 890fxa-ud5 driver page. Probably just an oversight by web admin.


actually it is posted on 890fxa driver page


----------



## Velathawen

With the temps coming down, I'm very eager to play around with my OC.

Currently testing:
Core clock: 4060
Multi: 14
Vcore: 1.475
HT / NB Multi x8: 2319
NB Voltage: 1.23
NB HT Voltage: 1.2
Ram - 8-8-8-20-1T @1546 1.51v (it says this in bios, somehow i'm stable)
Load temps: 44-46C running [email protected]

It wasn't stable running at x9 multi (2610 effective) for HT Link/NB Freq. Wondering if I should bump my NB voltage up to 1.25 or 1.27.

Thoughts?


----------



## shaddix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
actually it is posted on 890fxa driver page

doesn't show up for me:


----------



## christoph

that one that says Gigabyte SATA2 preinstall driver

does not work for you?


----------



## shaddix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
that one that says Gigabyte SATA2 preinstall driver

does not work for you?

Can't load that for windows to use, it's just for when you need to press F6 to load drivers during installation
This one here on the X58 driver page is the one needed:


----------



## christoph

then how you do it with the one you downloaded to install windows?


----------



## shaddix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
then how you do it with the one you downloaded to install windows?

With that one is only needed if during windows install it can't detect your HDD. Which it probably wouldn't if you wanted to install Windows 7 on a raid array connected to those two white sata ports. So you'd have to put those preinstall drivers on a usb flash or a cd or floppy to load during windows setup..


----------



## christoph

ahhhhh oohhhhhh

ok, now I know what you wanted to do, and did

I didn't understand you from the beginning, my bad, never mind me then


----------



## klaxian

I had been running my sig rig for quite some time under the impression that it was stable. As I've started getting into [email protected], I learned today there some minor instability does still exist. I have a few questions for you all...

Is there a maximum bus speed on our boards? Is my 328MHz too high? Do I need to increase any specific voltage to make that more stable?

Does increasing the NB (not CPU/NB) voltage help stability anywhere?

What voltage should make my CPU/NB stable at 2.95GHz? I am running 1.4V now and I'm not sure if this is a problem or not.

Would my HT need any more volts at 2.29GHz?

Thanks!


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *icekreme1002*


itching to get rid of this noisy 4890....


tsk.. tsk..

Don't say that too loud... you'll make it angry!!!

P1 Updated:
New Members Added
Spreadsheet updated and edited for formatting continuity
Keep up the good work!

~fidof650


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


I think the spot to look for is 1600 7-7-7



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I argue it would be DDR3-1333 CL5. The tightest I have gotten so far is CL6 however.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


1333 cl5 would be perfect but there's none that can do that, at leats for now
my ram rate is 2000 9-9-9, but cannot do 1600 7-7-7, don't even boot



Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


Just wondering what the Flares I have might do at 1600 if they do cas7 @ 2000Mhz?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Well, if crunchie's DDR3-2000 does CL7, whereas mine do CL7 at DDR3-1600, I would posit that his should get close to CL5 since mine can do CL6. If that makes any sense.


I was just fiddling with some numbers today, because I am bored like that. Rather than playing with hypothetical numbers, lets bust out some actual numbers!

At DDR3-2000, you have 1 cycle every 1.00 ns.
At DDR3-1600, you have 1 cycle every 1.25 ns.
At DDR3-1333, you have 1 cycle every 1.50 ns.
At DDR3-1066, you have 1 cycle every 1.88 ns.

Thus, we now can compute how long each Column Address Strobe Latency is.

DDR3-1600 CL7 = 8.75 ns
DDR3-1333 CL6 = 9.00 ns
DDR3-1333 CL5 = 7.50 ns
DDR3-2000 CL9 = 9.00 ns

As suggested, DDR3-1333 CL5 would be the fastest RAM available, if it existed. In theory, however, all other things being equal, the DDR3-1600 CL7 would beat the DDR3-1333 CL6 I am running, which in turn would tie DDR3-2000 CL9. The real world does not match theory most of the time, so testing would be necessary, as would discussion of all the other RAM timings.

Now you are all as bored as I am, so there!


----------



## MrTG17

I'm putting together my new system with a GA-890FXA-UD5 mainboard and am trying to choose the CPU. I'm deciding between these two:
- Phenom II X4 970 3.5Ghz Black Edition
- Phenom II X6 1090T 3.2Ghz Black Edition
I see most users in the forum here have Phenom II X6 1090T processors. Are there a lot of advantages in having 6 cores? If you had to pick between these, which would you recommend?

Thanks


----------



## saint19

@MrTG17: I'd go with the 1090T for lifespam maybe is true that the six core aren't used yet but in the future u will get a great advantage when games and applications can use more that 3 or 4 cores.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally would advocate the 1090T, or if money is tight, go 1055T. To quote TechPowerup: "With that being said, it becomes clear that Phenom II X4 970 BE unfortunately is nothing more than a small speed bump over Phenom II X4 965 BE. No extra features, no hidden cores to unlock, just a small increase in speed by 100 MHz." (Source) What is more, is they point out the x4 970 BE C3 has a VID of 1.3625 V. Might as well just take an x4 965 BE C3 and overvolt it for the same effect.

The 1090T is a very powerful processor. In games that completely peg a quad core, you will still have two cores sitting around to run background tasks. Ever have a virus scan start mid game? Now you do not have to worry about it! Further, it permits you to SMP [email protected] while browsing the web and have no problems at all. (My x4 940 @ 3.65 GHz would become choppy when SMP folding.) Many Thubans are able to hit 4.0 GHz, or more, from what I have seen. Even if you use only dual-threaded programs, the extra speed is a nice addition.


----------



## shaddix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrtg17*


i'm putting together my new system with a ga-890fxa-ud5 mainboard and am trying to choose the cpu. I'm deciding between these two:
- phenom ii x4 970 3.5ghz black edition
- phenom ii x6 1090t 3.2ghz black edition
i see most users in the forum here have phenom ii x6 1090t processors. Are there a lot of advantages in having 6 cores? If you had to pick between these, which would you recommend?

Thanks


1075t


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*
Well, if crunchie's DDR3-2000 does CL7, whereas mine do CL7 at DDR3-1600, I would posit that his should get close to CL5 since mine can do CL6. If that makes any sense.

My 2000Mhz GSkills will not do CAS5 no matter what. CAS6 at 1666Mhz is do-able though. I have posted some numbers here:
http://www.overclock.net/10825281-post12.html
and here:
http://www.overclock.net/10808996-post158.html


----------



## MrTG17

@saint19, Blitz6804, shaddix

Thanks for the recommendation, I was leaning that way.
The X6 1090T is what I'll get!

-Tony


----------



## shaddix

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MrTG17* 
@saint19, Blitz6804, shaddix

Thanks for the recommendation, I was leaning that way.
The X6 1090T is what I'll get!

-Tony

not 1090! 1075 lol.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
So the 2.1's still aren't quite being shipped. Maybe it's a non-US model? If it makes you feel better, I had to RMA my board for random B.S....mostly slow HDD throughput (file copy ran at a wonderful 35 MB/s), and tons of memory related blue screens. Tried another 890 chipset board, tried reinstalling the SB driver, and after a few tries, the IRQL BSOD went away, and my system boots/runs just fine. HDD file copying is almost twice as fast now between two drives. What kind of errors are you getting, exactly? Just not booting, or problems when POSTing? BSOD? If you get a BSOD for PFN_list_corrupt, or memory_management, and your RAM is known good, it's likely going to be the board (was in my case).

Just got the PFN_list_corrupt BSOD.

It came out of no where.. I never had this bug check either. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but my internet connection kept going in & out but I figured it was my ISP.. finally it went out for good .. still thinking it was my ISP I waited for an hour(watch a movie) and it never came back on. So I rebooted the DSL modem and to my surprise it worked... 2 seconds later, bam!! hit with this BSOD










Any idea what cause this?

I have 8GBs of ram. I run them at 1333 6-6-6-24


----------



## Baio73

Now I see if I can raise a little bit, thus temps seem to be ok!
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
The 1090T is a very powerful processor. In games that completely peg a quad core, you will still have two cores sitting around to run background tasks. Ever have a virus scan start mid game? Now you do not have to worry about it! Further, it permits you to SMP [email protected] while browsing the web and have no problems at all. (My x4 940 @ 3.65 GHz would become choppy when SMP folding.) Many Thubans are able to hit 4.0 GHz, or more, from what I have seen. Even if you use only dual-threaded programs, the extra speed is a nice addition.

If you are going to overclock both the cpu and nb anyways, wouldn't a 1055T 95W or even the 1075T be more economical as opposed to the 1090T? A lot of people seem to have no issues hitting 3.8+ with decent voltages and temperatures. The unlocked multi certainly gives more flexibility when overclocking though, can't deny that.


----------



## Blitz6804

Velathawen: By all means go with a 1055T/1075T if you would rather. In my experience, upwardly unlocked multipliers are completely worthless. The only reason why I went with the 1090T is in case I got a dud that does not overclock at all, I am starting with 400 MHz to begin with. I have yet to set the (CPU) multiplier above its default 16, moving only downward. I have adjusted the NB upwards, but considering it is not stable with anything past 11, I would hardly consider buying the chip for the extra 1 step on the multiplier.


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Velathawen: By all means go with a 1055T/1075T if you would rather. In my experience, upwardly unlocked multipliers are completely worthless. The only reason why I went with the 1090T is in case I got a dud that does not overclock at all, I am starting with 400 MHz to begin with. I have yet to set the (CPU) multiplier above its default 16, moving only downward. I have adjusted the NB upwards, but considering it is not stable with anything past 11, I would hardly consider buying the chip for the extra 1 step on the multiplier.


You raise a good point. It would suck to happen upon the one of the potential duds when you could have easily afforded the more oc friendly alternatives. I guess that's why it will always be a mixed bag huh


----------



## Blitz6804

As Joe was fond of saying, "Your mileage may vary." My view on overclocking is not a necessity (I do not buy something expecting a certain speed), but instead buy it for the labeled speed, and if it can go faster, that is just gravy.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

Hey you guys, I've got a quick question...

I have an H-50 with the fan plugged into CPU_FAN and the pump plugged into NB_FAN with system smart fan control disabled.

Does this sound right?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Ram question.

Is it wise to run 8GBs with a command rate of 1T? I read that some motherboards default to 2T when using 4 dimms

What command rate do you guys use for ram?

I am getting BSODs occasionally and they are related to ram management.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally am in fact running 8 GB with 1T command rate. I have found, however, it is hard to get RAM speeds up with 8 GB, even if I swing to 2T. Part of that is because the 1090T is rated to do DDR3-1333 with 4 GB, but only DDR3-1066 with 8 GB, so at DDR3-1600, you are overclocking the IMC a good 267 MHz (50%).


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I personally am in fact running 8 GB with 1T command rate. I have found, however, it is hard to get RAM speeds up with 8 GB, even if I swing to 2T. Part of that is because the 1090T is rated to do DDR3-1333 with 4 GB, but only DDR3-1066 with 8 GB, so at DDR3-1600, you are overclocking the IMC a good 267 MHz (50%).


I'm currently running my ram at 1333 6-6-6-18 with a command rate of 2T. I previously had it at 1333 6-6-6-24 with a command rate of 1T.

I will try 2T with tighter timing to see if it fixes my BSODs


----------



## Blitz6804

I was running 6-7-7-18-1T-20 for a while, and then out of no-where, it became unstable. It was running 6-7-7-23-1T-31 (the "ideal clocks") before I started overclocking anew. The tRAS should approximately equal the sum of tCL, tRCD, and tRP. tRC should exactly equal the sum of tRP and tRAS.


----------



## Junglebizz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I personally am in fact running 8 GB with 1T command rate. I have found, however, it is hard to get RAM speeds up with 8 GB, even if I swing to 2T. Part of that is because the 1090T is rated to do DDR3-1333 with 4 GB, but only DDR3-1066 with 8 GB, so at DDR3-1600, you are overclocking the IMC a good 267 MHz (50%).

Hey guys, I just stumbled upon this site and had a question regarding this statement.

I just build a system for a friend with a 1090T cpu, 890FXA-UD5 board and 2 of the G.SKILL F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO PC3-12800 kits and it is having all kinds of blue screens. I have tried running the ram at the rated timings of 7-8-7-24-1T, the SPD timings of 9-9-9-24-1T and the auto timings of 11-11-11-29-?T and nothing seems to fix it (the errors just seem a little less common).

I have been running the memory at 8x (1600MHz) the entire time, but after reading this, could that have been the problem all along? Can the 1090T not handle 4 dimms at 1600MHz? Is the processor only meant to run the ram at 1333 or 1066 in the first place?


----------



## Blitz6804

That is the theory Junglebizz. I have the identical motherboard, RAM, and CPU as you. I have not been able to get DDR3-1600 to stabilize with all 8 GB being used. I can get rid of the bluescreens, but it will not pass Prime95. I HAVE found, however, that G.Skill is a little ambitious with the tRP, and it should be set to 8, not 7. Two DIMMs however, I have been able to take up to almost DDR3-1700 without any real tweaking. For DDR3-1600, I think I will need to play with my driving strengths, and I have not felt like doing that yet.


----------



## Junglebizz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
That is the theory Junglebizz. I have the identical motherboard, RAM, and CPU as you. I have not been able to get DDR3-1600 to stabilize with all 8 GB being used. I can get rid of the bluescreens, but it will not pass Prime95. I HAVE found, however, that G.Skill is a little ambitious with the tRP, and it should be set to 8, not 7. Two DIMMs however, I have been able to take up to almost DDR3-1700 without any real tweaking. For DDR3-1600, I think I will need to play with my driving strengths, and I have not felt like doing that yet.

Good to hear someone else is having these issues as well! The system this went into isn't going to be OC'd so super tight timings is not a priority. The priority is stability. I should try turning the ram down to 1333 and see if that helps, if not, then 1066. Hopefully I will be able to tighten up the timings after making these changes.

What voltage do you have the ram set to considering it is supposed to be 1.35v and the gigabyte board goes in strange increments of 1.31v, 1.41v, 1.51v, etc?


----------



## preorded

Hi

When I try to change my vcore from the normal 1.475v and increase with 0.025v to 1.5v, instead showing 1.5v bios says 1.375v, do anyone know about this problem and to solve it?


----------



## Blitz6804

preorded: The nominal voltage in the BIOS is wrong. 1.475 V should not be given to a stock processor, as most AMDs range from 1.325-1.365. I personally run +125 mV (showing 1.450 V in the BIOS). Any setting other than Â±0 mV will work fine. Since it shows 1.375 V, your chip appears to have a 1.350 V VID.

Junglebizz: I ran DDR3-1333 6-7-7-20-1T-27 completely stable. Copy the values from the 5.33x divider from the "SPD" column over to current settings except for the tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tCR-tRC as above. As to the voltage, I put it at 1.410 V.


----------



## hesho

holy cow.... i'm literally debating about this same topic today...

is it worth running command rate at 1T

Blitz, i also have 8gb of ram however, i don't run my ram that fast (1333 but oc'd to 1420) and my timings are currently 7-7-7-20-1t (currently running prime for 6 hours so far). I tested it at 2t and it was stable at my OC lvl as well but.. is it really worth running it at 1t?

Keep in mind, i only have a x3 720 be unlocked so i don't know if my IMC is a bit different then the thubans (i assume mine is worse). From what i read, it makes it about 1-5% faster so i figure i could try but i read some ppl say it seriously stresses the IMC with 4 dimms so i'm hesitant on running it at 1t.


----------



## Blitz6804

While I do not have the numbers in front of me, I want to say the change of 2T to 1T was an improvement of about 5% on the bandwidth. As soon as I am done stress testing at DDR3-1472 (7-8-8-23-1T), I will be glad to run Everest, Maxxmem, and SuperPi both ways, 2T and 1T, for you to make your own conclusions. For me, I have not seen a difference in stability either way.

As to IMCs, yes, the x3 720 is running an older IMC. As Tator Tot tells me in another thread, the IMC in the E0s is far superior to the C2/C3s, so it is possible yours might not like to do it.


----------



## hesho

what else can be used to stress test the IMC besides prime95?

All i've been using is doing a custom torture tests. Anything else i should try using besides memtest? Far to lazy to make a bootable cd... and i don't have any blank cds.

P.S. if u use prime, what do u set your custom ram usage as when stress testing? I was told use at least 80% (i use 6889) but i read somewhere that i should be using all of my available ram in the resource monitor (8189). Which is it?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
While I do not have the numbers in front of me, I want to say the change of 2T to 1T was an improvement of about 5% on the bandwidth.

I read that tightening up the timing can off set this a little.


----------



## Blitz6804

But if you can do both ToxicAdam, why not?

hesho: I have 55 minutes left to call my system stable so I can do some comparison testing for you. I have found that Prime, by itself, fails as a stability tester. I have had times where it passed a 24/7 run, and then fail the second I load up [email protected] So far, my "bulletproof" test has not been seen to fail. Here is what I am doing:

Two instances of Prime95 - Configured to use 3200 MB each. Note, you could likely use 1 set to use 6400 MB, or use four blend clients. In fact, I used to use 4 blend clients, but I find it is easier to monitor two.
Kombustor - Configured to 800x600 window, AA and all other options turned off. If you have a crossfire system, you will need to go and get Kombustor 1.0.7, as anything newer broke the ability to use crossfire with a window. I do not know about SLI.
Two instances of CPU-Z - Both have their validation numbers (but that is up to you), one on the CPU tab and one on the memory tab. This is to ensure the clocks and VCore are stable. I have found that if you fluctuate a lot at the start of the test, you are more likely to fail it.
Coretemp - Configured however you like it.
Every other program is cleared out of your systray. In Windows 7 or Vista, you have disabled sidebar. The more programs you can clear out, the more stressful the tester will be. Thus, if you know you have a program in the background that is not in the systray (PnkbusterA,) be sure to kill that too.

I have yet to have a rig be unstable after passing this barrage of tests for 24 hours. For that matter, I have not yet seen one fail that has passed 12 hours. I have had a clock fail within 9 hours, however, so 12 is likely the minimum necessary to call stable. I like to be 24 hours though.


----------



## hesho

hmm... well, i don't feel that bad...

my full stability test is generally prime95 at custom 6889 and GPUTool for 24 hours to test heat and stability. i just hate how it warms up my room though.. UGH!!! I also generaly run OCCT first for 3 hours then do the 24 hour test.


----------



## Blitz6804

So that is essentially the same thing. The GPUTool / Kombustor will load up the northbridge and the hypertransport. I personally use Kombustor because it only loads up my HD 5970 cores about 22%. OCCT loaded them about 64%. Furmark will do it at least 80% on the lowest settings. Fun times. The point is not to stress the GPU (I already know it is stable) but to cause stress in other parts of the system other than the RAM and the CPU.


----------



## Baio73

20.5x200 with 1.50v.
I was about to OC the NB, but first I want to see how high can I raise the CPU clock... for daily I'm gonna keep it @4Ghz and 1.475v.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

Your temperatures are decent (42Âº C shown in HWMonitor ~ 55Âº C actual core), why not leave it where it is, and just get the Northbridge up? In my experience, however, the Northbridge did not like multipliers higher than 11x. 12x was unstable regardless of my HTT. You might need to change over to HTT overclocking to test a higher Northbridge.


----------



## Blitz6804

Here you go hesho. 2T on the left, 1T on the right.

MaxxMem:
















EverestUltimate:
















For both, I did a reboot, then ran MaxxMem as soon as the systray was loaded. Then I closed MaxxMem and ran Everest.

And I just noticed now, for some reason my CPU L1 Copy is lower with 1T instead of 2T. Interesting...


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Your temperatures are decent (42Âº C shown in HWMonitor ~ 55Âº C actual core), why not leave it where it is, and just get the Northbridge up? In my experience, however, the Northbridge did not like multipliers higher than 11x. 12x was unstable regardless of my HTT. You might need to change over to HTT overclocking to test a higher Northbridge.


As I wrote, I'm looking for the maximun CPU speed just to see where it can get, for daily use my goal is 4GHz (obviously with K10stat's help!).
I'm new to NB OC, is there a target speed to aim to for working with CPU's 4GHz speed? I remember for 965 there were benchmarks that shown how higher than a certain NB speed there was no gain (something like 4GH CPU and 2.8GHz NB).
About HTT multiplier, are you suggesting me to lower it before OCing the NB?
How much am I supposed to lower it?
Ciao!
Baop


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, when you overclock the CPU by the multiplier only, your HTT is still 200. To increase the Northbridge, you would need to increase its multiplier. I found that anything past 11x would never stabilize for me. So, if your CPU is like mine, you would only be able to get 2200 MHz on the Northbridge, and nothing faster. If you want faster, you would need to decrease your multiplier and move up your HTT past 200. For example, I am running 276x14.5 (CPU = 4002 MHz), with 10x on the Northbridge (2760 MHz).


----------



## gooface

my new results (more stable and cooler this time, though lower clock speed...)





8 hours stable, loving the NB @ 3.0ghz.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Well, when you overclock the CPU by the multiplier only, your HTT is still 200. To increase the Northbridge, you would need to increase its multiplier. I found that anything past 11x would never stabilize for me. So, if your CPU is like mine, you would only be able to get 2200 MHz on the Northbridge, and nothing faster. If you want faster, you would need to decrease your multiplier and move up your HTT past 200. For example, I am running 276x14.5 (CPU = 4002 MHz), with 10x on the Northbridge (2760 MHz).

I'm OCing by multiplier at the moment just to see where the CPU can get... when I reach the maximum, I try to get the same frequency raising the HTT and lowering the multiplier.
It seems to me 2.8GHz for the NB is a good frequency in combination with 4GHz CPU's speed... or should I go higher with 1600MHz RAM?
Other question: how high can I go with HTT frequency with the UD7?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gooface* 
my new results (more stable and cooler this time, though lower clock speed...)

[...]

8 hours stable, loving the NB @ 3.0ghz.

Wonderfull results!








What setting do you use for NB's 3.0GHz?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

Gooface used a 10x multi on the NB with a 300 MHz HTT.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *AndAllThingsWillEnd* 
Hey you guys, I've got a quick question...

I have an H-50 with the fan plugged into CPU_FAN and the pump plugged into NB_FAN with system smart fan control disabled.

Does this sound right?

Should work fine. I have my fan plugged into the CPU fan and the pump plugged into the PWR fan location on the motherboard. Just make sure that the pump always gets full power.

I added a second fan and pull in cool air from the outside through the radiator and get great results. The CPU idles at 21 to 22 Degrees C on Cpuid harware monitor and 30 to 32 Degrees C on Easytune 6. My case is a HAF 932 which is great for running cool temps. I am overclocked at 4.132 GHz and rock stable.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
I'm currently running my ram at 1333 6-6-6-18 with a command rate of 2T. I previously had it at 1333 6-6-6-24 with a command rate of 1T.

I will try 2T with tighter timing to see if it fixes my BSODs

Didn't get a BSOD but BFBC2 crash on me again.

This is how the screen looks before crashing;


----------



## Blitz6804

What speed is your GPU running? To me, that looks like an unstable GPU overclock.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
What speed is your GPU running? To me, that looks like an unstable GPU overclock.

I have stock pre-overclock Vapor X 5870.

870/1250


----------



## Blitz6804

For fun, can you try underclocking it? 750/1000 should be enough to test the theory.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
For fun, can you try underclocking it? 750/1000 should be enough to test the theory.

Yeah, I figured that might be it..


----------



## _REAPER_

I was wondering if anyone has bios settings for a 1055T on this mobo for 4.2 to 4.5ghz.. the CPU is waterblocked with a quad rad on the cpu only so I am not worried to much about temps.. just if anyone has stable bios settings I would appreciate it.


----------



## hesho

@ blitz - thanks for the benchmarks...

what is up with your L1 Cache copy in the everest though? That's a hefty drop there. After turning my room into a furnace, it passed @ 1t (1420 7-7-7-20). Truthfully, i really don't notice any difference at all lol.

Oh and, your ram is faster then mine


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Here you go hesho. 2T on the left, 1T on the right.

And I just noticed now, for some reason my CPU L1 Copy is lower with 1T instead of 2T. Interesting...

You may have had something running in the background.

I have had the same kind of result on a couple of runs, then it will pick back up again.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, I found that crunchie. I reran it a couple of times, and then it got back around 85000Â±300. Strange it did that in the first place.


----------



## AndAllThingsWillEnd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jjceo*


Should work fine. I have my fan plugged into the CPU fan and the pump plugged into the PWR fan location on the motherboard. Just make sure that the pump always gets full power.

I added a second fan and pull in cool air from the outside through the radiator and get great results. The CPU idles at 21 to 22 Degrees C on Cpuid harware monitor and 30 to 32 Degrees C on Easytune 6. My case is a HAF 932 which is great for running cool temps. I am overclocked at 4.132 GHz and rock stable.


The only reason I ask is because I wanted to hook it up to PWR_FAN but I read somewhere that it is to monitor the rpm of the psu, and that it didn't supply power. Therefore, a spot not to plug the pump into...


----------



## hesho

^^

i highly doubt that as the PWR_FAN is located like next the ram slots. Would be really odd if they made it for the PSU and it's that far away from it. Just to let u know though, i use the PWR_FAN and it does NOT show up in HWMonitor for some odd reason.


----------



## Junglebizz

I was using the Coolit ECO-R with the pump plugged into the PWR_FAN, but I switched to a molex adapter so that the system could auto regulate the system fans instead of running them all the time. Lots of fans fit in those Haf 932's.

To those who are having awesome overclocks and great stability, would you recommend the ram you are using?

I'm going to fix the settings on my friend's rig today as per blitz's suggestions but I have a friend who wants me to build almost the same system and I'm wondering if I should go with different ram this time because I know he will OC it. I used 4x2GB of the G.Skill F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO ram in the first rig.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am not sure. As versatile as the ECOs are with 2x2 GB, 4x2 GB seems to be pretty stubborn. I tried doing DDR3-1470 6-7-7-20-1T-27, but they did not particularly care for it. I tried running DDR3-1600 7-8-8-23-1T-31 on the 1066 divider, and it seemed more stable than when doing the same on the 1333 divider, but I killed the test because I did not exactly care for where the CPU temperature was going. I will likely try again sometime next week to see if I can do any better.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Gooface used a 10x multi on the NB with a 300 MHz HTT.

yea, that and 1.4v on the CPU NB, and it runs cool as well. wish I could run at 4.05ghz. I can, but I need 1.5v on the CPU to do that(vs 1.425v for 3.9ghz), and it runs WAY hotter when its like that with my current HSF. but atleast I know its reachable whenever I change fans.


----------



## Blitz6804

I tried mine set like that. 300x13.5, DDR3-1600, 3.0 GHz NB. I needed 1.475 V to do it, and it was already up to 56Âº C core, which is a little too warm for my liking. At least, in my precursory test. I might fiddle with it later.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Just sent my board to Gigabyte and noticed that the box it came in said "RMA Warehouse" on the return address. The site read like they were going to 'repair' it but I bet they'll just send me a different one. Hopefully v2.1

Now is a good time to upgrade the cpu cooler since it's off anyway.









Just reading through UnexplodedCow's RMA experience and I hope it goes a little better for me. Funny thing is that he also noticed how they say 'repair' on the site.


----------



## blur510

Anyone here know if the onboard s/pdif or toslink out support 24bit music transport? I checked the manual and gigabyte website and I didn't find any result. thanks


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Fir3Chi3f* 
Just sent my board to Gigabyte and noticed that the box it came in said "RMA Warehouse" on the return address. The site read like they were going to 'repair' it but I bet they'll just send me a different one. Hopefully v2.1

Now is a good time to upgrade the cpu cooler since it's off anyway.









Just reading through UnexplodedCow's RMA experience and I hope it goes a little better for me. Funny thing is that he also noticed how they say 'repair' on the site.


a refurbished MOBO, is one that was repaired but someone else owned it and now you do, yours gonna be repaired and will be sent to someone else


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blur510* 
Anyone here know if the onboard s/pdif or toslink out support 24bit music transport? I checked the manual and gigabyte website and I didn't find any result. thanks


is suppose to, isn't it?, but don't know really


----------



## shaddix

24/96 is selectable


----------



## Russ White

Just curious if anyone knows where to get the GA-890FXA-UD7 Rev. 2.1 in the U.S.? I have found lots of places with 2.0 but not 2.1.

Thanks!
Russ


----------



## MrTG17

I just got my 890FXA-UD5 from Newegg yesterday, and it's a Rev 2.1.


----------



## Junglebizz

Hey Blitz, I tried those settings you suggested using 1333 with the 4 dimms installed, and my friend is still getting blue screens when trying to play games. I got my friend to change it to x5.33 and things seem better now, but when she tried to install her antivirus, it blue screened on her again. Is it possible that something went wrong with the windows 7 install since i did it with the ram set to 1600 MHz? Should I slack up the ram timings again?


----------



## Blitz6804

What is the HTT set to with the 5.33x multiplier?


----------



## Junglebizz

10x making it 2000MHz.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Junglebizz* 
10x making it 2000MHz.

is that cpu overclock it?

if not, then the voltages are stock aren't they?

try rising the cpu-nb a few steps, around 1.2v, or even 1.22 but no more, and see if that makes any difference


----------



## Blitz6804

Not the HyperTransport, but the HTT. Which I take to be 200 MHz given your latest statement. Thus you are running at DDR3-1066? And it is not stable for you still? There is something strange going on.


----------



## Junglebizz

My mistake, 200. I don't have the system in front of me, but I'm going to check it out soon. I get the feeling it was stable at 1066 but she was having problems installing some anti-virus program. I used the ram timings that you mentioned before (copy from the x5.33 SPD settings to the current ones).

I may do a complete reinstall of windows, make sure the system is set to use AHCI (as it seems that after some research that it IS the best setting to have even though initially i read that it wasn't...)

If I set it up to use AHCI, assuming I have the SSD in sata_0, where should I have the 2TB caviar black plugged in and the SATA DVD drive? I would think that I would want the DVD drive in one of the 4/5 ports set to IDE mode but would I want the 2TB drive on say, SATA_3 also under AHCI?


----------



## Junglebizz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
is that cpu overclock it?

if not, then the voltages are stock aren't they?

try rising the cpu-nb a few steps, around 1.2v, or even 1.22 but no more, and see if that makes any difference

This system is stock but since I am running 4 dimms of this ECO G.SKill, the system has become very unstable. I'm having a real tough time finding the settings required to get this thing to be stable at stock speeds.


----------



## Blitz6804

I use RAID on all of my blue SATA ports. This includes the single hard drive that is not part of any array. My optical drives are on the white SATA ports in IDE mode.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Junglebizz* 
This system is stock but since I am running 4 dimms of this ECO G.SKill, the system has become very unstable. I'm having a real tough time finding the settings required to get this thing to be stable at stock speeds.

there you go, you got 4 of those, try with the voltage I said, 1.2 maybe 1.22, cuz stock as you may know is 1.75

is the CPU-NB VID/voltage should be under that name


----------



## Blitz6804

Actually, unless I am mistaken, the stock CPU-NB VID is 1.150 V. I was using 1.275 V (+0.125 V in the BIOS) for 2750 MHz NB with DDR3-1333 CL6.


----------



## hesho

wow, those thubans do have way better IMC then c2 cpus. I need 1.3 CPU-NB Vid just to get my NB running at 2472...

anyway, curious, y not just let the mobo run at auto with all 4 dimms first just to see if u have any problems? Also, on this system, i only got a BSOD when my cpu wasn't getting enough voltage. Everytime i got a BSOD, i upped it and it went away. This is when i run prime of course. If it was memory or the NB, it would just error instead.


----------



## Blitz6804

You need to read the BSOD code. An IRQL not-less or equal is CPU voltage. A page fault in a non-paged area is either memory or northbridge. A hard lockup is CPU voltage. A black screen of death is eitehr CPU voltage or a driver.


----------



## hesho

thats true, just that, i haven't gotten a BSOD since i stopped oc'ing my CPU. When fiddling with my timings and NB, i only got errors in prime. Also, i'm really jealous that u got CAS 6 going. I can't even boot up with CAS 6 and my ram


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, I backed it off to CL7 to run DDR3-1470. CL6 would blue screen, whereas it worked fine at DDR3-1333.


----------



## hesho

i can't even get mine to post at stock settings (6-7-7-20-2t). It just beeps at me 6 times


----------



## Blitz6804

According to Newegg, your stock is 7-7-7-20? I have found that with 4x2GB, it really wants to be on the 5.33x multiplier. The 6.67x is not exactly stable. My particular RAM is broken in that it will not boot on the 4x multiplier.


----------



## MrTG17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Velathawen: By all means go with a 1055T/1075T if you would rather. In my experience, upwardly unlocked multipliers are completely worthless. The only reason why I went with the 1090T is in case I got a dud that does not overclock at all, I am starting with 400 MHz to begin with. I have yet to set the (CPU) multiplier above its default 16, moving only downward. I have adjusted the NB upwards, but considering it is not stable with anything past 11, I would hardly consider buying the chip for the extra 1 step on the multiplier.

I ended up going with the 1090T since it was only $25 more than the 1075T at NewEgg, and I end up with a Black Edition as well.


----------



## hesho

i'm being stubborn and i want to stay at 1333 though.

and yes, that is my stock timings. it's running right now at 7-7-7-20-1t @ 1.53v. I had it running at 1420 but i lowered it to 1380 so i could get my NB to run faster instead.


----------



## Junglebizz

So I made a couple changes that seem to work (as far as I could tell in the short time I had). I increased the NB voltage to 1.190 (up from 1.150) and I changed from 7-7-7-20-27-1T to 7-8-7-20-27-1T using the 5.33 multiplier as it seemed like a lot of people had issues with the tRCd being set to anything under 8. So far everything seems fine.

Couldn't install the ESET System Security 4 that they wanted on it though, but I think that's an issue with the software. Seems like a lot of people have issues with it ending installation prematurely, so I'm not worried that that is a hardware configuration fault.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Didn't get a BSOD but BFBC2 crash on me again.

This is how the screen looks before crashing;



























Could aggressive settings cause this as well? I just copied and pasted someone else setting.ini file over to mine. He's settings were medium on pretty much everything..

[WindowSettings]
Width=1920
Height=1080
Fullscreen=true
RefreshRate=60
VSync=false
[Sound]
Quality=high
VoipEnable=true
SpeakerCount=0
[Graphics]
Effects=medium
Soldiers=medium
Vehicles=medium
Overgrowth=medium
Undergrowth=medium
StaticObjects=medium
Terrain=medium
Shadows=high
Bloom=false
HSAO=false
MSAA=6
Water=medium
MainQuality=custom
Texture=high
DxVersion=11
Aniso=4
Detail=medium
RenderAheadLimit=
Fov=70

I played for 2 hours with no problems.. don't know what to make of this.

My personal settings were all maxed ..


----------



## Blitz6804

If the video card is stable, settings are irrelevant. If the video card is not stable, higher settings tend to stress the card harder, and thus, are more likely to uncover the instability.


----------



## hesho

hey, i was able to boot up with a 5.33 divider. It won't let me boot up at all with the 6.66 divider. No way in hell it's worth it to go to 1066 ram though


----------



## Blitz6804

See, that is the thing. Boot it on the 5.33x divider, and then crank up the HTT. 250 MHz = DDR3-1333. 300 MHz = DDR3-1600. 350 MHz = DDR3-1866, not that I think that would work on this board. Thus far, 300x5.33 is the only way I have been able to make 8 GB of DDR3-1600 POST.


----------



## hesho

250 huh?? hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

time to fiddle!!!

btw, is there an improvement running at cas 6? Also, it won't boot up at 6-6-6-20, need 6-7-6-20.

Thing is, to me, won't i have to increase my ram voltage because my FSB is so high now?


----------



## Blitz6804

The RAM voltage is independent of the HTT; the only things that affect RAM voltage are RAM speed and RAM timings. My RAM requires that tRP = tRCD, both of which must be one greater than tCL.


----------



## MrTG17

I just put together my new system with an 890FAX-UD5 and a PhenomII x6 1090T. I loaded ET6 to have a look at the system and on the tab where it shows the 6 cores multiplier, Cores 0-4 are 16X, but Core 5 is at 1.0X. That doesn't seem right does it? Has anyone else noticed this?
I'm not yet even overclocking, this is all at stock settings, although I did reduce the CPU voltage in the BIOS because it came up at 1.475V out of the box. I don't get why the sixth core of the CPU would be running at 1.0X multiplier.


----------



## Blitz6804

Does it have BIOS version F3 or newer? F1 and F2 had problems with multipliers.


----------



## MrTG17

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Does it have BIOS version F3 or newer? F1 and F2 had problems with multipliers.

It came with BIOS version F3, it's a Rev2.1 board. I loaded a program called Coretemp, and it shows all 6 cores at 16X when idling. Guess it must be a bug in ET6 then.


----------



## hesho

don't use ET6. i tried using that program but i ended up giving up and using HWMonitor instead. Also, f4 bios i believe fixed a bug with ET6. I don't remember what it was off the top of my head.

A bit off topic but, man those thubans has way better IMC then c2 cpus. I need 1.375v just to get my NB @ 2600


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes, E0 has a much better IMC than C3, which in turn is a touch better than C2.

EasyTune6 is broken on any BIOS but F4. Just use CoreTemp (if you are using a Thuban, adjust the offset upwards 13Âº C) and move on.


----------



## hesho

i wish i could use coretemp. I heard it's the only program that can actually attach itself to the systray? I remember when motherboard monitor had a little icon and it would tell me the cpu temp. Was nice and i miss that program.

@ blitz kinda curious, what's the highest CPU-NB voltage u would run on a 24/7 system? I'm debating if i should keep it at 2600 or not. 2500 is stable at 1.325 though so i'm thinking of going back. Thing is, i FINALLY broke 9gb in maxxmem at 2600mhz :/


----------



## Blitz6804

Supposedly, 1.400 V is the highest you should go. Personally, I usually like to keep more conservative, and likely would stop putting in voltage once the return starts to diminish.


----------



## hesho

sigh, i sucked it up and went back to 2500nb. Sniff, sniff, back to 8.8gb in maxxmem









anyway, i actually just noticed this... I normally do NOT see the post screen as i generally see the gigabyte screen instead but i noticed something. During the post screen, it does NOT show my CPU speed. It says

Phenom II X4 20
cpuid numbers/letters
8gigs of ram etc.

Is that normal for unlocked cpus? Also, the two times i did push tab to see the post screen, my computer froze during boot up... how does that make sense?


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally have silent boot off, so I do not know about the tabbing/freezing issue. To be honest, I do not remember if it shows CPU speed at all, all I recall it showing is the RAM divider.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
@ blitz kinda curious, what's the highest CPU-NB voltage u would run on a 24/7 system? I'm debating if i should keep it at 2600 or not. 2500 is stable at 1.325 though so i'm thinking of going back. Thing is, i FINALLY broke 9gb in maxxmem at 2600mhz :/

I run my NB at 3.0ghz with 1.4v and my temps are fine, and I run this 24/7 and have been since june (other than tweaking and stuff on the side)


----------



## hesho

must be nice having a thuban. I might be limited because i only have a c2 processor as well.

the more i thought about it, i just didn't think it was worth running my NB at 2600 1.375v when i can do 2500 1.325v. the extra voltage of 0.05v (or 2 notches) doesn't seem worth it for 100mhz. If it was just 1 voltage bump, i would have kept it though.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would agree with you completely. 2500 MHz on the Northbridge means you have a (theoretical) 10 GBps throughput. Since your RAM is not taxing it, I would not worry about it. EDIT: Even though DDR3-1333 has a theoretical throughput of 10,664 MBps. This is most likely because no computer these days can touch the theoretical (yet), not like the DDR1 days.


----------



## saint19

As far I know the best frequency for the NB is 2600MHz above that u lose performance.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


As far I know the best frequency for the NB is 2600MHz above that u lose performance.


You should read this post on CPU/NB clock and RAM speeds:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/...ed-faster.html

From these and my own tests, it seems like pushing the CPU/NB as far as you can (up to 3000MHz) does improve performance. However, the difference between 2800MHz and 3000MHz isn't that much. This does depend on the RAM and configuration each individual is using though.


----------



## saint19

^Sorry I read it and with NB 2600 I get very good performance u are right that depends for the rig and configuration I think that my problem is the C2 revision of my CPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


During the post screen, it does NOT show my CPU speed. It says

Phenom II X4 20
cpuid numbers/letters 
8gigs of ram etc.


I just confirmed that now. It does NOT show CPU speed, and I have a locked processor. It shows
Code:


Code:


Phenom II x6 1090T
<CPUID stuff>
8,388,608 KB at DDR3-1066


----------



## hesho

that's... weird isn't it?? y the heck wouldn't it show the speed of the cpu instead or at least something a normal user understands instead of some cpuid code...


----------



## Blitz6804

Very valid question. The code tells you (1) what CPU is installed, and (2) what microcode the motherboard has installed. The microcode is for stuff like the K10 TLB cache error and the ability to support processors that came out after the motherboard did.


----------



## hesho

y... do u know that??? kinda curious lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

Too much time in front of a keyboard.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AndAllThingsWillEnd*


The only reason I ask is because I wanted to hook it up to PWR_FAN but I read somewhere that it is to monitor the rpm of the psu, and that it didn't supply power. Therefore, a spot not to plug the pump into...


I understand, it is best to be careful. I have been running this way for 2 months at 4.135GHz. As I type this my computer is backing up to a server and the temps are 16 to 17 Degrees C in a cool room.

The Corsaire H50 is a very good product. So far I am happy with the performance.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


^^

i highly doubt that as the PWR_FAN is located like next the ram slots. Would be really odd if they made it for the PSU and it's that far away from it. Just to let u know though, i use the PWR_FAN and it does NOT show up in HWMonitor for some odd reason.


It shows up in Easytune 6 but with no speed. I assumed that is becasue I have the H50 pump plugged into it.


----------



## hesho

ET6 never worked for me at all. The only fan it ever showed was the sys_fan2. It didn't even show the pwm fan for me. That's y i hated that program and i ended up getting rid of it instead.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I was finally able to test the new board Gigabyte sent to me. I bought some new Gskill RAM...the Asus hated it. The gigabyte beeped to let me know a stick was bad. So...RMA'd that, too. I have it back now, and I tried the Gigabyte again. It's pulling 60 watts less from the wall than the first UD5 I had, as well as running cooler, more stable. Gigabyte did stick me with F2 BIOS to start with...and it hated 4GB RAM sticks. Updated to F4, and smooth sailing since. I have not tried overclocking, but ended up taking it to a one day LAN party, where I had zero errors. So I'll keep it around for a month and see how it works. So far I have no complaints. It just took several months to iron this out. If it's good in a month or two, I'll probably just keep it as originally intended. So I guess I'm back in now :-~


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
I was finally able to test the new board Gigabyte sent to me. I bought some new Gskill RAM...the Asus hated it. The gigabyte beeped to let me know a stick was bad. So...RMA'd that, too. I have it back now, and I tried the Gigabyte again. It's pulling 60 watts less from the wall than the first UD5 I had, as well as running cooler, more stable. Gigabyte did stick me with F2 BIOS to start with...and it hated 4GB RAM sticks. Updated to F4, and smooth sailing since. I have not tried overclocking, but ended up taking it to a one day LAN party, where I had zero errors. So I'll keep it around for a month and see how it works. So far I have no complaints. It just took several months to iron this out. If it's good in a month or two, I'll probably just keep it as originally intended. So I guess I'm back in now :-~


good

I got my MOBO back a week later after I did ask you about your MOBO, and the thing was that my cpu was dead along with one stick of ram, I RMA'ed the cpu and AMD sent me a new one after 2 days (this says a lot about AMD)

anyway I been working with this MOBO and CPU since then without a problem, though haven't RMA'ed my original RAM kit


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
good

I got my MOBO back a week later after I did ask you about your MOBO, and the thing was that my cpu was dead along with one stick of ram, I RMA'ed the cpu and AMD sent me a new one after 2 days (this says a lot about AMD)

anyway I been working with this MOBO and CPU since then without a problem, though haven't RMA'ed my original RAM kit

Some of the flakiness of the board was caused by a semi-unstable stick of RAM I had (Corsair Dominator). I let Corsair know of the problem...had a RMA number that day. The turnaround time for them has also been faster, with MUCH better communication (nearly on a daily basis). While I'll likely sell off the Corsair, as I don't need it now, I will purchase that brand again. Gigabyte is still shady to me.
AMD's actions speak volumes of their customer support. Good to know they took care of the replacement very quickly. It might not have been your RAM, so much as the IMC causing the issue.
One thing I'm curious of is how the new UD5, with the same hardware (except RAM and BIOS revision) pulls ~60 watts less (132 watts vs 189) at idle. I doubt the RAM switch made that much of a difference, and even more so of the BIOS update. Probably a short or something in the first board that caused so many issues. *shrug* doesn't matter now.


----------



## Blitz6804

Is this a revision 2.1 instead of a 2.0 maybe? If the RAM is Blue, Blue, White, White, that is the 2.0, and Blue, White, Blue, White is 2.1.


----------



## crunchie

Is there a way to control the fan speeds with the UD5? I have tried speedfan but couldn't get it to work.


----------



## Savvage

I am sure it has already been asked and answered somewhere in these 200 pages, But is there any problem with the Coolermaster V8 CPU cooler fitting on the GA-890FXA-ud5? it Looks like it would be real close to getting in the way of the #1 RAM slot? Can someone verify that it will fit without getting into the stick of RAM

also can someone link me to any article that explains using a Nvidia card for a physics card with a ATI as primary GPU?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Savvage* 
I am sure it has already been asked and answered somewhere in these 200 pages, But is there any problem with the Coolermaster V8 CPU cooler fitting on the GA-890FXA-ud5? it Looks like it would be real close to getting in the way of the #1 RAM slot? Can someone verify that it will fit without getting into the stick of RAM

also can someone link me to any article that explains using a Nvidia card for a physics card with a ATI as primary GPU?


hmmmm

I have the TRUE BE, and goes over the 2 first slots, but I have my ram on the last 2 slots, so it doesn't matter to me, although my RAM sticks being not so tall can go under the HS for the first 2 slots, but have to put the ram first and then the HS

if you have RAM that has HS only on the sides of the stick, I mean as the same size as RAM PCB itself, you wont have a problem


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Savvage* 

also can someone link me to any article that explains using a Nvidia card for a physics card with a ATI as primary GPU?

http://www.overclock.net/graphics-ca...ysx-guide.html


----------



## hesho

that's a bad memory, i originally got an ocz vendetta 2 for my setup but i had to get rid of it because it wouldn't fit. I had to get a hyper 212+ instead and on the push fan i got a slim fan instead so i can fit properly. Hope that helps.

btw, has anyone figured what the fan connectors are in HWMonitor?

i'm guessing

FANIN0 is the PWM cpu fan
FANIN2 is the 3pin SYS FAN at the bottom of the case
FANIN3 is NB Fan (which shows 0 rpm even though it's spinning.. sigh)

are these correct?


----------



## Blitz6804

Easiest way to check? Keep HWMonitor open, unplug a fan and see which starts to drop, and then plug it back in before anything overheats. Make sure your CPU is at a bone idle with CnQ on. Or even better, forced to 4x is a smart idea.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Easiest way to check? Keep HWMonitor open, unplug a fan and see which starts to drop, and then plug it back in before anything overheats. Make sure your CPU is at a bone idle with CnQ on. Or even better, forced to 4x is a smart idea.

That's a dangerous thing to do... I mean, plug ang unplug fan connectors while the pc is powered on, its' a not a good idea, it may fry the mobo's port.
For me it's better to plug only one fan per time or at least power on with one fan undervolted (for example using a Zalman cable or equivalent).
I've plugged/unplugged fans several times in the past with pc on, but experts say it's not a good idea...








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

I do it regularly, but I like to live dangerously I guess. Currently, all my fans are plugged into a fan controller though, so I would not be able to test for hesho. In any event, I think 3/4 of my headers are covered anyway. Good call with the Zalman fanmate, I would not have thought of that. Plug fan into the fanmate, plug the fanmate into the board, boot. Adjust knob see which fan moves. Power down, repeat. *Much* safer idea.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I do it regularly, but I like to live dangerously I guess. Currently, all my fans are plugged into a fan controller though, so I would not be able to test for hesho. In any event, I think 3/4 of my headers are covered anyway. Good call with the Zalman fanmate, I would not have thought of that. Plug fan into the fanmate, plug the fanmate into the board, boot. Adjust knob see which fan moves. Power down, repeat. *Much* safer idea.

So used I... but the last year I was told by SpeedFan's author that it could be dangerous for the mobo... At the time I was testing a beta version of his software and there were some mails between us.
I also remember he told me one thing not to do at all: never plug 2 fans in 1 mobo's header with an Y adapter, the most dangerous thing for the mobo!








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Blitz6804

Why's that I wonder? If you know the draw of the two fans, and they need less watts than the motherboard is able to provide, it should not be a problem. On the other hand, attempting to plug an Ultra Kaze 3k or similar is likely a bad idea even with only one of them.


----------



## hesho

from what i can tell...

FANIN0 - CPU_FAN (PWM)
FANIN1 - SYS_FAN1 (PWM) * read below
FANIN2 - SYS_FAN2 (3 pin)
FANIN3 - NB_FAN (3 pin)

i have no idea what number the PWR_FAN is (i assume FANIN4) as i set up 4 different fans on it, they all spin, but they never show up in HWMonitor at all no matter which fan i use. Now that i think about it, it's possible this port can litterally just be used to power a fan and nothing else....

As for the SYS_FAN1 fan, uh.. i don't think that thing works properly at all. I only have 1 xtra PWM fan so i plugged it in. It doesn't spin at all at idle and it only revs up to 300rpms while running prime. I ran prime for an hour and the max rpm it shows is 304rpm. The fan should be capable of up to 1500rpm... It's the stock fan that came with the OCZ vendetta 2 fan.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Why's that I wonder? If you know the draw of the two fans, and they need less watts than the motherboard is able to provide, it should not be a problem. On the other hand, attempting to plug an Ultra Kaze 3k or similar is likely a bad idea even with only one of them.


That's hard to say... IMHO it's most likely a matter of mobo components quality: old models in particular weren't intended to control big case fans as nowadays, and maybe it was much more easy to pass over the port capacity.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Baio73

It seems to me those X6 have very much gentle MCs!








3.00GHz for NB 1.325v... with my old C3 Iwas able to run the CPU @4.00GHz, but the NB never raides above 2400MHz.
Is that a configuration one can run for daily use?



Now I must try to raise the HT... my goal is 13.5x300=4050. Do I try with NB @3.00GHz or it's better to lower it @def?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## hesho

i really need to stop looking at SS of thuban processors. Makes me want to get one >< As somone who has a C2 CPU, yup, the IMC on them is way better lol. Heck, the cpu itself is more efficient too.

btw, raising the HT link actually degrades performance. You r probably better off keeping it at around 2000...


----------



## Blitz6804

Your Hypertransport is a touch fast. Drop that down to 1800-2100. Anything past 2100 is no benefit, and in fact, likely a detriment. 1.472 V is nearing the edge of air cooling, according to some, it is past it. Do not attempt 1.500 V until you go under water.

1.325 V on your northbridge is nice, I believe mine requires 1.400 V to do 3 GHz. For 3 GHz, it has a theoretical bandwidth of 12 GBps, whereas DDR3-1600 has a theoretical bandwidth of 12.8 GBps, but in reality, you would expect less than that. Thus, your 3 GHz is the way to go not to bottleneck the RAM.


----------



## Junglebizz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Junglebizz* 
So I made a couple changes that seem to work (as far as I could tell in the short time I had). I increased the NB voltage to 1.190 (up from 1.150) and I changed from 7-7-7-20-27-1T to 7-8-7-20-27-1T using the 5.33 multiplier as it seemed like a lot of people had issues with the tRCd being set to anything under 8. So far everything seems fine.

Couldn't install the ESET System Security 4 that they wanted on it though, but I think that's an issue with the software. Seems like a lot of people have issues with it ending installation prematurely, so I'm not worried that that is a hardware configuration fault.

Well, everything was good for a while, but my friend just emailed me saying she was getting blue screens again. it seems like the only time she gets them is when she is downloading stuff. Do I maybe need more voltage on the ram or NB? should I slack up some of the settings, maybe go to 2T instead of 1T? help!


----------



## Blitz6804

Those are the G.Skill Eco right? Loosen the tRP to 8. My Ecos always want tRP = tRCD. I am starting to think you did not adequately stress test the rig...

Do you know what BSOD she is getting? That will help us determine what is wrong with it.


----------



## Junglebizz

I will have to get back to you about what the error was, but I know the original errors were mostly the "page fault in non page area"

I stress tested it using prime and I did run memtest which both ran just fine. The system doesn't error during gaming and it is not overclocked either.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Your Hypertransport is a touch fast. Drop that down to 1800-2100. Anything past 2100 is no benefit, and in fact, likely a detriment. 1.472 V is nearing the edge of air cooling, according to some, it is past it. Do not attempt 1.500 V until you go under water.

Wow, thanks for the feed, I really didn't notice the HyperTransport freq as I didn't touch anything related to it in the BIOS... now I'm gonna put it back to def.

Quote:

1.325 V on your northbridge is nice, I believe mine requires 1.400 V to do 3 GHz. For 3 GHz, it has a theoretical bandwidth of 12 GBps, whereas DDR3-1600 has a theoretical bandwidth of 12.8 GBps, but in reality, you would expect less than that. Thus, your 3 GHz is the way to go not to bottleneck the RAM.
Ok, now I'm gonna see if I can make 300 of HT...








What software do you suggest to make some RAM benchmark?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## hesho

maxxmem2 is the quickest memory benchmark i know of. The program is like 1 meg and it takes about 25 seconds to run lol. off the top of my head it's www.maxxpi.net i believe.


----------



## Blitz6804

Page fault in non-page area is either the Northbridge or the Memory.


----------



## Junglebizz

I think I'm going to take back her computer for a day or so and get this thing figured out. I may post the settings I am using so that maybe one of you guys can see if there's something potentially troublesome.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


maxxmem2 is the quickest memory benchmark i know of. The program is like 1 meg and it takes about 25 seconds to run lol. off the top of my head it's www.maxxpi.net i believe.


What's the difference between MaxxMEM2 and MaxxMEM2 Multi?
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I argue it would be DDR3-1333 CL5. The tightest I have gotten so far is CL6 however.

With the 1090T, what do you reckon is best, 2000Mhz with timings of 7-9-7-24-1t or 1800Mhz with timings of 6-8-6-22-1T?
What cpu-nb frequency would be best for both?


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, the DDR3-2000 is 16 GBps with latencies of 7 ns, 9 ns, 7 ns, 24 ns. With the DDR3-1800, you are 14.4 GBps with latencies of 6.7 ns, 8.9 ns, 6.7 ns, 24.4 ns. 16 GBps is 11% greater than 14.4 GBps, but the latencies are 0.6% looser, on average. I would posit the DDR3-2000 would be the better option.

A 3000 MHz Northbridge has 12 GBps of bandwidth.
A 3200 MHz Northbridge has 12.8 GBps of bandwidth.*
A 3400 MHz Northbridge has 13.6 GBps of bandwidth.

We see no matter what, both DDR3-1800 and DDR3-2000 would be bottle necked on a K10.5. Thus, my theory is that the DDR3-1800 would be superior due to its lower timings since the DDR3-2000 cannot bring is greater speed to bear. The problem is, this is all in the range of the theoretical, not the actual. The only way to be sure is to test both.

*Interesting to note, that a 3200 MHz NB corresponds to DDR3-1600. Both have a theoretical bandwidth of 12.8 GBps.


----------



## Dr Nick

Just bought a UD5 yesterday, should be here on Monday or Tuesday.

Has anybody used this board with 2 4GB sticks of Corsair memory? I'm planning to get either Corsair or G.Skill 1600 memory and it would be really helpful if someone else has experience with it.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 

We see no matter what, both DDR3-1800 and DDR3-2000 would be bottle necked on a K10.5. Thus, my theory is that the DDR3-1800 would be superior due to its lower timings since the DDR3-2000 cannot bring is greater speed to bear. The problem is, this is all in the range of the theoretical, not the actual. The only way to be sure is to test both.

*Interesting to note, that a 3200 MHz NB corresponds to DDR3-1600. Both have a theoretical bandwidth of 12.8 GBps.

Cool. That is all the stuff I have no idea about







.
Things are starting to warm up over here now, so I cannot push this thing the same.
At the moment I have it set to 1800Mhz and it passes Memtest with no problems. CPU happily sitting at 4050Mhz with 1.375vcore and about 48C running Lynx.
Thanks Blitz. Getting MaxxMem out after I return home from work.
Just out of curiousity, what is the thuban's limits regarding bandwidth?


----------



## Blitz6804

Not one clue crunchie. Sorry.


----------



## hesho

hmmmm, kinda curious.. what would be better (or would they be roughly the same?)

running NB at 2510 and ram at 1339 or NB at 2430 and ram at 1440?

the timings for both will be the same. The difference is voltage is that the NB will be running 2 notches down and the ram will be running 2 notches up.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


hmmmm, kinda curious.. what would be better (or would they be roughly the same?)

running NB at 2510 and ram at 1339 or NB at 2430 and ram at 1440?

the timings for both. The difference is voltage is that the NB will be running 2 notches down and the ram will be running 2 notches up.


The higher IMC is better.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Not one clue crunchie. Sorry.


No worries







.
Got another one for you though.

Is bandwidth the be all and end all? I am talking in 'as much bandwidth as you can extract,' or do some programs benefit from tighter timings?
If that is the case, I guess in the end, it is a balancing act of best timings at maximum possible bandwidth, yes?


----------



## hesho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
The higher IMC is better.

i figured, just bugging me a bit that my ram isn't really being pushed at all









edit.. wow, i don't even know what i typed last night lol.


----------



## Blitz6804

hesho: I think the only way to be sure is to test. I personally would go with the option with the lower CPU-NB voltage unless the other option is grossly superior.

crunchie: Bandwidth is closely tied with memory-dependent programs like SuperPi. Programs like 3DMark will show very little difference, if any, for even a 10% improvement in bandwidth. Latencies seem to have a slightly more pervasive effect, in that it affects more programs, but the difference in performance is more negligible. At least, when talking about RAM bandwidth and latencies. Your CPU bandwidth is intimately related with almost every benchmark, so for a CPU, yes, bandwidth is the alpha and omega. I always strive to have my Northbridge bandwidth as close as possible to my RAM bandwidth. It is worthless to have it any faster than the RAM, however.


----------



## hesho

eh... i just spent 2 days stability testing even tighter timings... i don't really want to stability test some more









btw, how do u calculate NB bandwidth?

edit: yeah, the higher NB is faster btw by about 1% ah well.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
eh... i just spent 2 days stability testing even tighter timings... i don't really want to stability test some more









btw, how do u calculate NB bandwidth?

edit: yeah, the higher NB is faster btw by about 1% ah well.


IIRC, the thuban IMC easily bottnecks high-speed RAM. From research and personal experience, my recommendation is to get the tightest timings you can at near 1600MHz and set the CPU/NB to 2800-3000MHz. This gives you a good blend of responsiveness, throughput, power utilization, and cooling for a wide range of applications.


----------



## hesho

i only have a c2 cpu.. looking at all the pics, i want to get a thuban though lol. I'm just curious how u find out the NB bandwith. my ram is only running at 1339 and my NB is at 2510 so i assume my NB is not bottle necked.

It's bugging me a bit though that my ram is only at 1340. No idea what else i can do to push my ram a bit (timings are 6-7-5-18-1t-22). Is it worth trying to get my timings lower? Heck, there isn't much lower i can go for that matter. Oh, and i'm annoyed at my ram because my maxxmem score is 8.99gb.. and its' DRIVING ME NUTS that i'm not at 9gb lol.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


crunchie: Bandwidth is closely tied with memory-dependent programs like SuperPi. Programs like 3DMark will show very little difference, if any, for even a 10% improvement in bandwidth. Latencies seem to have a slightly more pervasive effect, in that it affects more programs, but the difference in performance is more negligible. At least, when talking about RAM bandwidth and latencies. Your CPU bandwidth is intimately related with almost every benchmark, so for a CPU, yes, bandwidth is the alpha and omega. I always strive to have my Northbridge bandwidth as close as possible to my RAM bandwidth. It is worthless to have it any faster than the RAM, however.


I managed to get around to running MaxxMem2 this evening at a couple of different settings.
The first SS show the cpu @ 4050 and the RAM @ 1800 6-8-6-22-1T with the cpu-nb @ 2700Mhz.

Second SS is the same except the cpu-nb is @ 2925Mhz.


















The third SS is with the cpu @ 4000Mhz and the RAM @ 2000 7-9-7-24-1T with the cpu-nb @ 2750Mhz.
The fourth SS is the same except the cpu-nb is @ 3000Mhz.


















As you can see, @ 4050 the bump in cpu-nb frequency from 2700Mhz to 2925Mhz raised the memory score in Maxxmem by 0.41Gb/Sec.

Running the cpu @ 4000Mhz, the bump in cpu-nb frequency from 2750Mhz to 3000Mhz raised the memory score in Maxxmem by 0.72 Gb/Sec.

Just for fun, I dropped the cpu-nb frequency to just above stock speed and left the cpu and RAM frequency where it was.










Just goes to show how the cpu-nb changes things.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
I managed to get around to running MaxxMem2 this evening at a couple of different settings.
...
Just goes to show how the cpu-nb changes things.

Seems to also show that tighter timings beat out higher clock speed for AMD in general.


----------



## Blitz6804

If I am reading it right klaxian, the DDR3-2000 won over the DDR3-1800.

Crunchie: Can we get some game-style benchmarks for that? 3DMark 06 or Vantage, Crysis, or something else? I would be interested to see how similar the four of them are.


----------



## hesho

so u know, i hate u guys and your thubans lol.

it just seems to be that cpu nb OCing is > memory speed OC'ing.

oh, and about NB OC'ing, i saw this link from the amd memory section... should be what u r looking for blitz.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/3877/a...ance-scaling/7


----------



## Blitz6804

It is helpful yes, but I was curious on Crunchie's particular rig.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
If I am reading it right klaxian, the DDR3-2000 won over the DDR3-1800.

Of course, but it seems like the timings made more of a difference - though there are too many variables in those tests to get a clear picture. In any rate, it looks like the clock speed increase didn't improve things too much, which makes sense.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
If I am reading it right klaxian, the DDR3-2000 won over the DDR3-1800.

That is what I am seeing there too, especially with the cpu-nb @ 3000Mhz.
That is as high as I have taken it so far, but I have a feeling it will go higher as it's only getting 1.225 volts.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Crunchie: Can we get some game-style benchmarks for that? 3DMark 06 or Vantage, Crysis, or something else? I would be interested to see how similar the four of them are.

I have 06 and Vantage. Which would be the better?
It is 4.45am here and I am about to head off to work, so I will not be able to get this done for another 14 hours probably.
I might do some online Gran Turismo whilst I'm running them








.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
Of course, but it seems like the timings made more of a difference - though there are too many variables in those tests to get a clear picture. In any rate, it looks like the clock speed increase didn't improve things too much, which makes sense.

If you like, I can keep the cpu @ 4Ghz and then just change the RAM multi back a notch to keep that different cpu frequency out of the variable?


----------



## christoph

I did check at the specifications of my MOBO on the Everest aplication, when I was running 2000 MHz RAM at 9-9-9, 2500 NB and just 3000 for the CPU

but what I really pay attention at, was the bandwidth and it was 35000 Mb/s

but everest is not "the" software you can rely on when it comes to benchmark


----------



## Blitz6804

3.5 GBps? Something must be wrong. You are running in dual channel right? Ganged will score higher in Everest than unganged (since Everest is single-threaded), but the only way to get that low would mean you have to be in single channel.


----------



## crunchie

Ok. I did 4 runs of vantage. I set the cpu @ 4Ghz with the RAM @ 2000Mhz 7-9-7-24-1T and the cpu-nb @ 2000Mhz in the first run.










Next was with cpu-nb @ 3000Mhz, nothing else changed.










Next was same cpu frequency, 2000Mhz cpu-nb and 1666Mhz RAM @ 6-8-6-22-1T.










And then again with the cpu-nb @ 3000Mhz.










All with the 5850 stock and the Physx off.

Strange looking scores. I only had time for 1 run each, otherwise I would have done 3 of each.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is about what I figured they would be. At DDR3-2000, a Northbridge of 3000 MHz is 0.9% better than 2000 MHz. At DDR3-1666, a Northbridge of 3000 MHz is 0.7% better than 2000 MHz. Lastly, DDR3-2000 is 0.3% faster than DDR3-1666 on 3000 MHz and essentially equal on 2000 MHz. That is the Northbridge bottleneck we see, because the DDR3-2000 cannot bring its full bandwidth to bear to compete with the DDR3-1666's tight latencies. While RAM bandwidth and timings is the end-all be-all of memory-sensitive programs (like SuperPi or HyperPi), it does not effect much on 3D gaming. If you took a stop watch and timed your boots, I figure the DDR3-2000 might be a second or three faster for that matter.


----------



## crunchie

Haven't really noticed a difference in boot times as it normally boots in about 15 seconds anyhow, from when I select which OS to boot to.
If there _is_ any truth that running the RAM @ 2000Mhz is harmful, I may just run @ 1800Mhz with the tighter timings.
Appreciate your knowledge on this Blitz







.


----------



## RagingCain

If by harmful you mean physically harmful, anything over 1333 MHz for your DDR3 is a 1090T IMC overclock. You know the deal, more volts = less life, even when adequately cooled, but I believe it to be marginal at best.

If by benchmarking harmful, I believe you are all expecting the same bottleneck created by the NB design on 790 chipsets as opposed to your newer 890s. I also believe EMI is lower because you guys have even more Copper oz. used and better quality design over all.

You know, lessons learned.


----------



## Blitz6804

Or DDR3-1066 if you have 8 GB of RAM. I have read in the past that the typical processor is designed to last ten years. Even if overvolting and overclocking takes two years off its life, I believe most people would have replaced it by then. It is only when you flagrantly ignore temperature (62Âº C for Thuban) and voltage (1.450 V for Thuban) tolerances that you bear the risk of shorting your lifespan to an appreciable degree.

I am reminded of someone who used to run a Denmark with a 0.300 V overvolt. Several hours of 10Âº C higher-than-usual ambient temperatures irreparably damaged the chip, requiring it to be ran at stock for the last six months of its life before it completely died.


----------



## RagingCain

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Or DDR3-1066 if you have 8 GB of RAM. I have read in the past that the typical processor is designed to last ten years. Even if overvolting and overclocking takes two years off its life, I believe most people would have replaced it by then. It is only when you flagrantly ignore temperature (62Âº C for Thuban) and voltage (1.450 V for Thuban) tolerances that you bear the risk of shorting your lifespan to an appreciable degree.

I am reminded of someone who used to run a Denmark with a 0.300 V overvolt. Several hours of 10Âº C higher-than-usual ambient temperatures irreparably damaged the chip, requiring it to be ran at stock for the last six months of its life before it completely died.

Blitz is 100% correct, and as far as life of the CPU, I whole heartedly agree with that. I haven't seen anything official about the 8 GB only supports 1066 MHz.

I will tell you from my recent (as of two days ago) experience that 8 GB of my OCZ Reapers @ 1600 MHz @ stock timings / volts on 965BE C3 was completely unstable, and now with the same memory on a 1090T is 100% stable with even tighter timings. The only thing I changed was the CPU itself. I was told even to get the CPU NB up to 1.300v and still not stable.

I would honestly think that the IMC officially supports 1333 MHz across the board, which allowed me to run it at 1600 MHz with my rated timings without a hitch. In other words, the IMC is more efficient and higher rated, making it much less of a leap to run at 1600 MHz, than it was for the 965 BE C3 to jump which only officially supported 1066 MHz. The CPU NB voltage I am currently testing is 1.225 with a NB frequency of 2800 MHz. So not only is my NB 800 MHz higher, with the memory's technical overclock and tight timings, I am still using 0.075 volts less, and its running fine.

I would go as far as to say that the 1800 MHz maybe even 2000 MHz (with slacker timings than stock) is probably the best you could achieve without going nuts on the CPU NB voltage.


----------



## Blitz6804

That actually is the difference between the C3 and the E0, the later of which has a far superior IMC. While I do not feel like pulling it up on AMD's website, Newegg mentions the RAM limitation:

Dual Channel PC3-10667U (DDR3-1333) for 2 Module, Dual Channel PC3-8500U (DDR3-1066), Dual Channel PC2-8500U (DDR2-1066)

Thus, with 2 DIMMs, DDR3-1333 is available. For three or more, it tops out at DDR3/DDR2-1066. I have also verified this myself. On the DDR3-1333 divider (x6.67), the RAM remains unstable regardless of my HTT (as low as 200) or the timings on the RAM. DDR3-1600 9-9-9-25-2T-24 @ 1.500 V (SPD for DDR3-1600) is a no-go even at 200x6.67. On the other hand, if I drop to the DDR3-1066 (x5.33) divider, I can push the HTT up to 300 MHz (DDR3-1600) with the timings close to their rated values of 7-8-7-24-2T-40, that being, 7-8-8-23-1T-31 using 1.410 V.

I think this is similar to the limitation of DDR1 K8s, in that more than 2 GB prohibited the use of the DDR-400 divider. Some boards would let it be set (like my DDR3-1333) but they would never stabilize. Drop the boards to DDR-333, and crank the HTT up, even DDR-500 was possible.


----------



## ryman546

what did they change in the ud7? Revision 2.0 to 2.1...


----------



## Blitz6804

It appears to be the same changes as on the UD5. The core unlock chip has been removed, although now it says "Core Boost" on the PCB, and the RAM has been changed from AABB to ABAB with the (supposed) ability to run DDR3-2000 on all four slots instead of DDR3-1866 on only two. I also notice there is another MOSFET up above the ATX connector where the Dolby icon used to be before it was moved down by the COM port. I wonder what that is for?


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

I'm still reading through everyone's posts since I last posted, but wanted to update that I just got the email saying that they are shipping my motherboard back. They received the board Oct 5- confirmed by their previous email notice.

Quote:



Dear Valued Customer,

We appreciate you being patient with us.

We have finished testing your GIGABYTE product(s) and it is (they are) being returned back to you.


We'll see what I get back: new/different/repaired. My desktop will be down for almost two weeks, including shipping time, when I get it back...

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...l#post10866155


----------



## christoph

my cpu and one ram stick died when I was running RAM at 2000 MHz


----------



## klaxian

What does it mean if your computer turns off completely while stress testing? Temperatures looked good and I had passed 10 LinX tests when the computer simply powered down. Is this another indicator that my overclock is unstable? This isn't the first time, but it's pretty rare.

On a related note, is 1.375V enough to run my CPU/NB at 2970MHz? I realize that every chip is different, but I'm looking for a ballpark. Thanks.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
my cpu and one ram stick died when I was running RAM at 2000 MHz

What were the system settings at the time? vcore, cpu-nb volts, RAM volts etc?


----------



## Stilly

BIOS f5 is out....States it 1.Support new RAID ROM version

hmmm


----------



## klaxian

Has anyone tried this new F5 BIOS? Any improvement on overclocks or voltages? Does it have the problem that F4 does where barely any OC will boot without triggering the error about a crash due to overclocking? I had to stick with F3 because of that. Thanks.


----------



## Blitz6804

Since I completely skipped F4, maybe I should be the first to try F5? Nothing to lose right?


----------



## crunchie

Must have only just come out. I checked 12 hours ago and it was still F4.
Give it a go Blitz. I hate being a guinea pig







.


----------



## gooface

go blitz go!!

*hoping it will make it so i can run at 4.05ghz with less volts..*


----------



## Blitz6804

I will give it a try in an hour or two. Gotta (1) finish what I'm doing, and (2) rig up the laptop so I am not down a PC while this is stressing itself.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, I am still poking though the stock BIOS before I change anything. Things I notice immediately:

Nominal VCore appears to finally be fixed; "Normal" gives it 1.3250 V (well, 1.312 V, but we knew about the sag)
A whole bank of extra RAM controls now exist (pictures to follow)
RAM speed at the POST now shows actual RAM speed (201.3x5.33 at stock) rather than theoretical RAM speeds ("200"x5.33)
BIOS now has a switch of IOMMU support (under advanced BIOS features)
The RAID thing keeps telling me I have a drive read error, but Windows appears to load

More news to follow as I get it.

EDIT: The RAID ROM is telling me I have a drive read error on LD1-1, so the RAID is running on three drives and LD1-1 is running a single disc. I am flashing back to F3 to see if the problem goes away (bad BIOS) or if it stays (bad HDD). I also note that it can no-longer read my core temperature, only my CPU temperature, they may or may not be related.


----------



## crunchie

Looks like I might be staying with F3.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, the temperature issue was me accidentally enabling core unlock. LD1-1 is still showing as a single disk, however. It reads the drive, but not as part of the RAID. That leads me to believe the RAID boot sector got corrupted. I am going to use Clonezilla to zap the RAID array to my spare drive. Destroy and rebuild the RAID, and then clone it back. Looks like a fun night ahead of me. (-_-)


----------



## Blitz6804

IOMMU is not in F3. I am positive on that. F5 was the first I saw it as I never used F4 ever.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I rebuilt it under F5. However, two problems:

(1) The RAID detection was much slower as I said previously; F3 would have 3-4 periods before finding the arrays, F5 had 11-15 before finding them; and

(2) Windows would not install; it would say "Windows is loading files..." and the progress bar would fill. When it got all the way to the end, rather than opening the install menu, the computer rebooted.

Putting back to F3 fixed both.

Question: Am I missing something about F4? Works fine for me, so I'm just wondering why you jumped a couple revisions back, instead of trying F4? Yes, IOMMU is not included in F3. I was surprised to see it in F4. I also thought I saw extra timings using F4. I'm not as familiar with F3, as the board I received back came with F2, and was almost unusable, and I barely had F3 in before going through the couple months of RMAing.


----------



## christoph

i had the impression that it was in F3 too but oh well


----------



## saiyanzzrage

sorry for the noobiness, but whats IOMMU?

also, im on f3 and have a raid 0 array, would going to f4 or f5 give me any beneift performance wise?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
Guys with this board and 1090t/1055t procs....the temps for each individual core reads 7-10 degrees less than the TMPIN1 temp (core) in hwmonitor and everest as well...when overclocking should i just pay attention to the TMPIN1 temp and stay below 55c, or add a few degrees to the individual cores? Is there any way to get these programs to read the temps correctly?

Also, I realized I never installed the AMD Chipset Driver (include chipset \\ sata raid driver)...do I need to install these??? what do these drivers actually do?

thanks!

sorry if im being annoying, but do i need to install the AMD chipset drivers? ive had my pc running now for 6 months without them, but what do they do?


----------



## rickshaw

Hi. I'm new here and have spent and will be spending a lot of time here. I just bought my UD5, 1090T and other stuff but still waiting for those other stuff.

I bought this CPU heatsink, the Artic Cooling Freezer Pro Rev. 2. (I am not fan of those humongous heatsinks). I am wondering if this will interfere with the memory modules? I ordered the G.SKILL F3-12800CL7D-8GBRH Ripjaws which looks like has those extending fins. Also, anyone got this CPU heatsink? Wonder if it will perform better than the one that came with the CPU.

I am so excited about this project. It will replacing my ancient Opteron-175 (a 939 socket) setup.

Thanks,


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
3rd? i thought it was your second...

Technically 2nd physical board, but I'm counting based on RMA periods, and I had to send the board back the day after getting it as it was still FUBAR. So, I had the first board, RMA'd it, Gigabyte sends it back after testing, saying all is well..board still defective, so I RMA it again, and then get the board I'm currently using. Maybe I have a special way of counting, much like Thuban's temp sensor.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally do not bother with chipset drivers offered by Gigabyte. I saw no difference in performance as compared to the Microsoft ones, and it made it harder when I had to reinstall Cataylst. As for IOMMU, as far as I know, it permits the memory to be used more randomly permitting greater SMP performance, but degregated single-task performance. I think it is an option with servers in mind.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I personally do not bother with chipset drivers offered by Gigabyte. I saw no difference in performance as compared to the Microsoft ones, and it made it harder when I had to reinstall Cataylst. As for IOMMU, as far as I know, it permits the memory to be used more randomly permitting greater SMP performance, but degregated single-task performance. I think it is an option with servers in mind.

thank you kind sir!


----------



## RagingCain

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
I personally do not bother with chipset drivers offered by Gigabyte. I saw no difference in performance as compared to the Microsoft ones, and it made it harder when I had to reinstall Cataylst. As for IOMMU, as far as I know, it permits the memory to be used more randomly permitting greater SMP performance, but degregated single-task performance. I think it is an option with servers in mind.

+1 Vote for that. Just go with Microsofts defaulter then install ATi/AMD. In my opinion nVidia/ATi always fix/find/fix/create/patch/create/fix/find/fix bugs at a rate 20x faster/more often than any OEM I have ever encountered.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RagingCain* 
+1 Vote for that. Just go with Microsofts defaulter then install ATi/AMD. In my opinion nVidia/ATi always fix/find/fix/create/patch/create/fix/find/fix bugs at a rate 20x faster/more often than any OEM I have ever encountered.

i have an nvidia graphics card though...so why would i install catalyst?


----------



## Blitz6804

You wouldn't. So little changes with chipset drivers, it is fine to let Windows handle it.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
You wouldn't. So little changes with chipset drivers, it is fine to let Windows handle it.

gotcha, thanks guys

out of curiosity, blitz, what is your nb freq at for your 4.0ghz thuban oc?


----------



## Blitz6804

A modest 2760 MHz on +0.125 V. I have not played enough with my settings to really get anything exciting. It is my opinion, that the "ideal" overclock for these things would be 13.5x300 (4050 MHz) with a 10x NB (3000 MHz), 7x HT (2100 MHz), and 5.33x RAM (DDR3-1600). I still have to try that myself...


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
A modest 2760 MHz on +0.125 V. I have not played enough with my settings to really get anything exciting. It is my opinion, that the "ideal" overclock for these things would be 13.5x300 (4050 MHz) with a 10x NB (3000 MHz), 7x HT (2100 MHz), and 5.33x RAM (DDR3-1600). I still have to try that myself...

similar to what i have, except i did a straight multi overclock..

im at 200x20=4.0 cpu, and 19x200 = 2800nb, and left the ht stock @ 2000...my memory is at stock 1600 ddr3 timings (8.00x) too

i think im gonna try and get the nb to 3000 this weekend, hence the reason I was asking about the temps so i could make sure i was monitoring the correct temp


----------



## hesho

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
A modest 2760 MHz on +0.125 V. I have not played enough with my settings to really get anything exciting.

how is 2760 a modest OC?? that's like.. 35% oc isn't it? Oh and god damn, must be nice using so little voltage. I need 0.150 to get mine to run at 2510


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
how is 2760 a modest OC?? that's like.. 35% oc isn't it? Oh and god damn, must be nice using so little voltage. I need 0.150 to get mine to run at 2510









i think im in the same ballpark? my cpu/nb is at 1.225 and my cpu voltage is 1.375v 8 hours prime stable


----------



## hesho

i'm not complaining per say, i'm more jealous lol. Those thubans are far more efficient then c2 phenoms.

Kinda curious, about IOMMU, is there any reason to actually use it?


----------



## Blitz6804

I cannot say I have ever missed not having it.

As to "modest" overclock, that is because most people with Thubans use 3 GHz and up. I THINK +0.125 V equates to 1.275 V.


----------



## Blitz6804

Regards the broken RAID, Gigabyte offers the following:

Quote:



Dear Customer

Are you still able to boot into the OS?
if you are able to boot please run the Raid Xpert utility and let it attempt to auto rebuild the raid


----------



## moethelawn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Regards the broken RAID, Gigabyte offers the following:


Yeah I wasn't able to boot Windows at all. It would bluescreen on me or crash then automatically restarts the system. I reverted back to F4 because it would even fail to boot once in awhile.


----------



## hesho

this is an odd question...

anyone know where the system temp sensor is (TMPIN0 in HWMonitor)??

Kinda curious because it currently says my system temp is 39, yet my cpu is 32 and my NB is 33. How the heck is that possible? All i've been doing is watching anime for the past hour or so...


----------



## crunchie

I have just been surfing for 30 minutes and tmpin0 is 34C, tmpin1 is 27C and tmpin2 is 30C. Looks like the same differences. 7C between 0 & 1
No fans on the board.
Not sure where the sensors are though.


----------



## hesho

that's weird though, i always thought that tmpin0 was the ambient temp in the case itself. If it's always higher, is it the actual mobo temp itself?


----------



## Blitz6804

I've been surfing and listening to music the past hour. Tmpin0 is 31Âº C (min = 31Âº, max = 31Âº), Tmpin1 is 26Âº C (min = 26Âº, max = 27Âº), and Tmpin2 is 32Âº C (min = 32Âº, max = 32Âº). The core temp (adjusted) is 31Âº C with a min of 28Âº, max of 38Âº. Ambient is 20.5Âº C with a temp of 21Âº in the case. To me, your temperatures seem normal.


----------



## hesho

nonono, the temps are fine, it's just, i always thought it was the temp in the case. Thats' what i thought it was listed but if it's higher, then i'm guessing it's the mobo itself?


----------



## Blitz6804

The sensor is located somewhere on the PCB generally, I do not know where. I had thought it is possibly near the socket, perhaps between the socket and the retaining bracket, but I have no proof of that. To get case temperatures, you would need to install a probe in the case. My fan controller has four probes, which I have:

(1) Case intake
(2) GPU fan intake
(3) CPU fan intake
(4) Taped to HDD5 (not part of the RAID, and unlike the RAID, passively cooled)


----------



## ryman546

what voltage do i need to increase to get a stable 2800 frequency??


----------



## Blitz6804

If possible, the CPU-NB. Not all CPUs can push 2.8 GHz, namely if you have a C2, you can likely forget it.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I guess 4.0GHz Just isn't obtainable for me...

I'm stable at 3.9ghz, 2800mhz NB, 1600mhz RAM with the following voltages:

CPU VID - 1.40v
CPU-NB - 1.35
NB - 1.21

If I try any high it just won't work, even with 1.45v on the CPU... So I'm guessing I might need more NB voltage (not cpu-nb), but it's already near the red zone at 1.25...


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


If possible, the CPU-NB. Not all CPUs can push 2.8 GHz, namely if you have a C2, you can likely forget it.


+1 Rev. C2 only can hit the 2700 something above that is BSoD.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER* 
I guess 4.0GHz Just isn't obtainable for me...

I'm stable at 3.9ghz, 2800mhz NB, 1600mhz RAM with the following voltages:

CPU VID - 1.40v
CPU-NB - 1.35
NB - 1.21

If I try any high it just won't work, even with 1.45v on the CPU... So I'm guessing I might need more NB voltage (not cpu-nb), but it's already near the red zone at 1.25...


but you still have room for more CPU voltage, try adding a little more for 4.0 GHz, remember that was always set 1.47v for the turbo core, so 1.47 you can take it as top voltage to have added, of course everything depends on the temperatures you get


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I've been surfing and listening to music the past hour. Tmpin0 is 31Âº C (min = 31Âº, max = 31Âº), Tmpin1 is 26Âº C (min = 26Âº, max = 27Âº), and Tmpin2 is 32Âº C (min = 32Âº, max = 32Âº). The core temp (adjusted) is 31Âº C with a min of 28Âº, max of 38Âº. Ambient is 20.5Âº C with a temp of 21Âº in the case. To me, your temperatures seem normal.


How hot do things get on Tmpin0 when gaming, 'cause I'm hitting 42C, and idle around 32, in a 25.5C room. The CPU registers 31C at idle, and hit 42C at load last night during some L4D2 action. Tmpin 2 is around 37C fairly consistently. The airflow in my case is pretty fine, with fans blowing pretty much directly on the chipsets and VRM.


----------



## Blitz6804

Okay, I have been running the CPU at 98% load, the HD 5970 cores at 85% load, an the GT 240 at 99.8% load for the past 20 minutes. HWMonitor now reads 42Âº C for Tmpin0, 51Âº C for Tmpin2. Tmpin1 ("CPU") is reading 44Âº C while (adjusted) cores read 51Âº C. My ambient is 19.4Âº C, case intake (front of the case feeding into the RAID) reads 20Âº C, CPU cooler intake (which is feed by the side intake) reads 19.5Âº C, and GPU intake (also fed by the side intake) reads 21.5Âº C.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Hmmm, seems like my temps might not be so bad, then. I'm guessing they just run a bit hot by design.


----------



## fidof650

P1 Updated:

New Members Added

Spreadsheet updated and edited for formatting continuity

Content updated

Keep up the good work!

~fidof650


----------



## saiyanzzrage

on this board, TMPIN0 is the mobo temp, TMPIN1 is the CPU temp, and TMPIN2 is the northbridge


----------



## Blitz6804

Update from Gigabyte:

Quote:



Since the the F5 does update the rom bios it may effect the boot order. Please use the F4 bios unless you are planning on using the Phenom II X6 1075T processor.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Update from Gigabyte:

Well, that sounds quite ridicuolous to me...








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Update from Gigabyte:

Crap I was thinking in go with that CPU. What do u suggest? I want change my old 955 C2 and my options that fit with my budget are the 1075, 1055, 965 or any one below those. What CPU should I go?


----------



## JW Pepper

I just picked up some G.Skill DDR32000 F3-16000CL6D-4GBPIS and downclocked them to 1600 mhz. After playing around with the timings I was able to get them stable at 6-7-6-18-1T. No problems with gaming so far, I don't have any bench numbers to post. I'm more of a "real world/seat-of-the-pants" type. So far I'm impressed.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Crap I was thinking in go with that CPU. What do u suggest? I want change my old 955 C2 and my options that fit with my budget are the 1075, 1055, 965 or any one below those. What CPU should I go?


Phenom II X4 970 for the win in price/performance.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103894

I love my 965 and haven't wanted for an X6 yet. I say, save the jingle for when an X6 becomes necessary and enjoy a rockin proc in the mean time.

On the other hand, your not really going to see much of a performance boost any way you go.

The 955 is a solid proc and optimized can give you very close to what you are going to get with any of the newer ones.

At the end of the day I would save my money and hold out for the big jump to AM3+.

Just my $.02


----------



## Blitz6804

I say go 1055T, 95W if you can get it. Since getting my 1090T, I could never see myself going back to a quad core, multitasking works so much better. (For example, I can alt-tab out of a quad-core game without pause, whereas the x4 940 would sputter for a bit.) As to the 1075T, I say avoid it because it is too new and unproven.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

If you want cheap hexcore performance, go 1055T. My favorite is the 1090T, although I'll admit to bias. If I were in your position, I would simply overclock the 955 to about 3.4 or 3.5 Ghz...even the C2s would do that much, and you can then have the performance of a 970 without having paid any more.
Case in point: I built a spare system as a go-anywhere frag box (my big system is literally too big now...approaching 70 pounds of stuff). I bought an $89 x3 740, and had spare parts lying around. I was able to unlock to a quad, and just finished Prime testing it at 3.54 Ghz on 1.302 volts, all with a stock cooler using 2x70mm fans (the stock one modified with a pot controlling RPM where the thermistor used to be, so it can now spin 7k). And that was a lower end, binned X3...your 955 will do just fine.


----------



## saint19

Thanks guys but already re-sell my 955 so that's why I ask for advice the 1055T looks like the best options among all those X6 and X4 CPUs


----------



## tehmaggot

Has anybody else gotten absolutely horrible overclocking ability with the F5 BIOS? I just updated and I can't even POST at anything higher than 3.2 with my old 3.9 BIOS settings.


----------



## Blitz6804

Mine would POST fine at my 4.0 GHz, but the Windows DVD would not boot.


----------



## saint19

The F5 looks like a bad BIOS update if isn't necessary.


----------



## tehmaggot

Reverted to F4 and I'm still having these problems. This is ridiculous. I've been running 3.9 forever without issue, and now I can't even boot at 3.3 with my 3.9 voltages. Memory is running below spec, so that's not the problem as far as I can tell. I'm going to try to do a more thorough flash. I've had boards in the past with configurable options where you can opt to clear more data.

Also, I noticed that I still have IOMMU in this F4 BIOS. Maybe I'm still running F5, but the version number has been changed to F4 or something silly like that.

*Update*: Using @BIOS, I was able to flash back to F3 and at least boot at 3.9Ghz with my old settings. Currently testing stability. For those who are curious, I checked both boxes on the @BIOS window. Something along the lines of resetting BIOS to default as well as clearing DMI pool data, or something.

*Update #2*: 3.9Ghz just passed 100 passes on LinX. Progress







Prime95 will be happening tonight. I may try flashing F5 again, but with @BIOS this time. Hopefully things go better that way.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Regards the broken RAID, Gigabyte offers the following:

I been catching up on the thread and I as going to say Blitz- shouldn't you be able to rebuild the raid since only one drive stopped working? Doesn't sound like it was the drives fault but that's like the whole point of raid 10. One drive dies and the others keep chugging. Best of luck to you!

Other updates: Got my system back up last night (finally), but the funny thing was that the board came back in a different motherboard's box







"Gigabyte S-series" apparently. It's the same board all right but everything runs a whole lot better! (ethernet/usb ports work all the time)

I'm using the ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2 CPU Cooler. Its a little frustrating how you have to mount it, pointing up, for AMD cpus. So far its not cooling much better than the stock, hitting 64C with 3.5GHz.









I am using the F5 and didn't notice a difference


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I've seen issues with @BIOS, and won't use, or suggest it to friends with GB boards. I'm running F4 fine at stock, but I haven't tried overclocking. I noticed F4 is really good for wonky voltages, however. I may regress to F3 and try it out. GB needs to get with the program and create some a good update, instead of nuking RAID arrays, and causing instability.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
on this board, TMPIN0 is the mobo temp, TMPIN1 is the CPU temp, and TMPIN2 is the northbridge

Oops







63C is my max core temp and 59C my max cpu temp (which still seems high to me) Thanks saiyanzzrage!


----------



## Gonzo

Is there any way to water cool the northbridge in a UD5? I'm running pretty stable but i have plans to water cool the system but don't want to buy a UD7.

 PS: add me plz.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gonzo*


Is there any way to water cool the northbridge in a UD5? I'm running pretty stable but i have plans to water cool the system but don't want to buy a UD7.

 PS: add me plz.



???

maybe buying a NB plate?


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

I imagine you can probably fit the stock ud7 cooler to the ud5, little discussion on that a bit ago in the thread but nothing became of it.

And there are usually a few 'universal' coolers floating around the internet that would likely work.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fir3Chi3f*


I imagine you can probably fit the stock ud7 cooler to the ud5, little discussion on that a bit ago in the thread but nothing became of it.

And there are usually a few 'universal' coolers floating around the internet that would likely work.


I can't really say if UD7's waterblock can be used with UD5, as it is screwed to another little heatsink which is directly upon the NB. The mobo came out of the box with the waterblock, I simply unscrewed it and screwed the PCI-slot cooler.
Does the UD5's NB heatsink have two holes for screws? I so, you can use it!
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Gonzo

Was just wondering because i can't find any information on it.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gonzo* 
Was just wondering because i can't find any information on it.


actually no, unless you detach the whole NB HS, but on the web should be a lot, or at least a few water blocks for the NB


----------



## hesho

hmmmmm so i rearranged my fans in my case and i notice something very odd. I don't know if this is normal (i assume not though) and i'm curious if anyone else has seen this happen...

The fan in question is a Scythe KAZE-JYUNI Slip Stream Slim 1200RPM

I use one of them on the CPU heatsink (need a slim fan because of ramsinks) and i was using the NB_FAN (FANIN3 in HWMonitor). When i noticed that the front fan in my haf932 wasn't putting any air in the case itself (it was pushing out of the sides) because of the filter, i added another slim fan to the HD cage and plugged in the the PWR_FAN connection.

So, today, i decided take the slim fan off of the NB_FAN and put it on the PWR_FAN since it spins at 12xx or so all the time and i used a case fan for the NB_FAN instead. I then put my 2nd slim fan on the HD cage and used the SYS_FAN2 (FANIN2 in HWMonitor). I put my intake fan on a fan controller instead.

I boot up and i noticed that in HWMonitor, it shows that it's spinning at 1330-1340 instead. The fan is rated at 1200 rpm though. I was a bit curious so i turned it off, then for fun, i plugged that slim and put it on the NB_FAN and booted up. HWmonitor showed it was spinning at 12xx rpm instead.

When i put it back to the SYS_FAN2 and booted up, HWMonitor still shows it's spinning at 1340 or so.

So after all this... how come it's spinning faster? Is it getting more volts or something? Shouldn't all the connectors on the motherboard be giving the same amount of power? Anyone else notice this? Also, is this even good for the fan itself? it's spinning out of spec now....

Oh, i don't have any lose 3 pin fans anymore as they are all set up inside the case and i don't want to undo them just to test the SYS_FAN2 plug in.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

In HWmonitor and everest, i saw my mobo temp (not northbridge, that is a separate sensor) hit 40c last night while gaming, the highest ive seen before this was 35-36c....

is that too warm? What are the safe temp ranges for mobo temps?


----------



## hesho

i thought i read that max NB temp is 58? From what ppl said, generally, u can ignore the NB temp as in any normal comp case with airflow, it would be impossible to get that.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hesho* 
i thought i read that max NB temp is 58? From what ppl said, generally, u can ignore the NB temp as in any normal comp case with airflow, it would be impossible to get that.

According to Gigabyte tech support, the absolute maximum NB temperature is 85-100C for our boards. However, the general consensus here is that we should keep it under 75C. Still, with good airflow, I can't get mine above 56C or so and I normally hover around 50C at 100% load.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
According to Gigabyte tech support, the absolute maximum NB temperature is 85-100C for our boards. However, the general consensus here is that we should keep it under 75C. Still, with good airflow, I can't get mine above 56C or so and I normally hover around 50C at 100% load.

what about the mobo temp? i asked this question earlier in the day today


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
what about the mobo temp? i asked this question earlier in the day today

I haven't seen any hard figures on that, but IIRC the "motherboard" temp is actually the southbridge. Mine is usually around 35C max. I don't think you have to worry about this as it shouldn't ever get high enough to pose a problem.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
I haven't seen any hard figures on that, but IIRC the "motherboard" temp is actually the southbridge. Mine is usually around 35C max. I don't think you have to worry about this as it shouldn't ever get high enough to pose a problem.

awesome, thanks!


----------



## saiyanzzrage

I tweaked my 1090T oC on this board a bit last weekend...what do you guys think? I was shocked I was able to run 4.1 at a relatively low 1.425v

Settings:

4.1 @ 1.425v cpu
3000 @ 1.30v CPU-NB
DDR3 1600 6-8-6-24-1T @ 1.6v

Temps were 48 - 50, hit 51 for a few minutes

70 degree F room

Idle temps are 23 - 24c

Not bad..she wouldnt do 4.2 regardless of what voltage I threw at her...

Im pretty happy, temps are awesome, and voltage is pretty low for a 4ghz + oc

I was happy i got her stable at 3000 nb, that was a goal of mine


----------



## Robi-G

Hi there

I see a lot of X6 1090T on the 890fx ud5 around here. So what can you tell me about the OC with the Phenom X6 1090T on the GB 890FX UD5? Just want to hear some impressions about it.

I selected 2 CPU Coolers:
Nocuta NH D14
Scythe Mugen 2

combinated with these RAM's:
G.Skill ECO DIMM Kit 8GB PC3-12800U CL7-8-7-24 (DDR3-1600) (F3-12800CL7Q-8GBECO)

Is there enough space for the rams with the D14 or Mugen 2? The ram slots are full occupied with the selected rams, that's the thing I'm a bit worried about...


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robi-G* 
I see a lot of X6 1090T on the 890fx ud5 around here. So what can you tell me about the OC with the Phenom X6 1090T on the GB 890FX UD5? Just want to hear some impressions about it.

All thubans seem to OC about the same. The main benefit of the 1090T is the unlocked multiplier. However, IMHO that really isn't worth the extra money. The 890FX boards include better components, improved cooling, LLC, and other features for enhanced overclocking ability in general.


----------



## Robi-G

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
All thubans seem to OC about the same. The main benefit of the 1090T is the unlocked multiplier. However, IMHO that really isn't worth the extra money. The 890FX boards include better components, improved cooling, LLC, and other features for enhanced overclocking ability in general.

Thx, how is your experience with the UD5 and the 1055T?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robi-G* 
Thx, how ist your expierence with the UD5 and the 1055T?

So far it has been quite excellent. Click into my sig rig for details. It was a piece of cake to get to 4GHz. I was able to run 1.42GHz at 1.5V, but I it took so much extra heat and voltage for such a little gain that I backed it off to where I am now. 1090Ts are max out around the same speed on air cooling. The features of the board are also quite good. I have built many AM3 systems in the past 6 months and I found that I prefer ASUS or Gigabyte boards. MSI is ok too. I recommend the F3 BIOS on this board for maximum ease and overclock ability. The jury is still out on F5.


----------



## Robi-G

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
So far it has been quite excellent. Click into my sig rig for details. It was a piece of cake to get to 4GHz. I was able to run 1.42GHz at 1.5V, but I it took so much extra heat and voltage for such a little gain that I backed it off to where I am now. 1090Ts are max out around the same speed on air cooling. The features of the board are also quite good. I have built many AM3 systems in the past 6 months and I found that I prefer ASUS or Gigabyte boards. MSI is ok too. I recommend the F3 BIOS on this board for maximum ease and overclock ability. The jury is still out on F5.

Sounds good. Asus Boards? Which one do you mean, the Crosshair IV? To be honest, that was my first choice, but I read a lot about the NB issue and also the VIA Soundchip isn't that for what I'm looking for.

So why is there a difference in oc ability between F3 and F5? Shouldn't be the newer one (F5) better on oc ability?


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robi-G* 
Sounds good. Asus Boards? Which one do you mean, the Crosshair IV? To be honest, that was my first choice, but I read a lot about the NB issue and also the VIA Soundchip isn't that for what I'm looking for.

So why is there a difference in oc ability between F3 and F5? Shouldn't be the newer one (F5) better on oc ability?

I was just speaking in general that I have had good luck with ASUS and Gigabyte products and I find them to be of high quality. They are also more expensive.

You really should review the rest of this thread. Theoretically, newer BIOS should be better, but that's not always the case depending on your configuration. There can also be new bugs introduced. For my setup, F3 works the best. F5 was just released so it will take some time to get a full review.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
I was able to run 1.42GHz at 1.5V,

And I thought this was *over*clock.net


----------



## Robi-G

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


And I thought this was *over*clock.net










lol didn't see that when I read it.

One question to you, crunchie: Could you please say me the type of g skill flares you use? 4GB or 8GB? Do you know the height of the flares? Are they higher than 44mm?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robi-G*


lol didn't see that when I read it.

One question to you, crunchie: Could you please say me the type of g skill flares you use? 4GB or 8GB? Do you know the height of the flares? Are they higher than 44mm?


Using 4Gb (F3-16000CL7D-4GBFLS) and they are about 50mm above the dimms when installed.


----------



## Blitz6804

I say avoid F5 like the plague. F4 I am skeptical on. F3 works well.

According to Gigabyte, they suggest you do not use F5 unless you want to install the new x6 1075T.


----------



## saint19

+1 to Blitz6804, the F5 BIOS version is a problem if u don't need it keep ur current BIOS and enjoy it.


----------



## Robi-G

Thanks everybody.
So what do you think is better on my setup
Phenom 1090T
UD5

4 x 2 GB - G.Skill RipJaws DIMM Kit 8GB PC3-12800U CL7-8-7-24 (DDR3-1600) (F3-12800CL7Q-8GBRM)
4 x 2GB - G.Skill ECO DIMM Kit 8GB PC3-12800U CL7-8-7-24 (DDR3-1600) (F3-12800CL7Q-8GBECO)

I've some issues about OC'ing the Eco's, is it possible that I reduce the lifespan of them increasing the voltage? Some experiences here?


----------



## saint19

^I'd go with the Ripjaws since those can run with lower voltage too.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want a beefy cooler, go with the ECO. If you have a small cooler (or will go water) go with the Ripjaws. My Megashadow cannot use a push fan, leaving it pull only, if I have RAM like the Ripjaws installed.


----------



## Robi-G

So my CPU Cooler is that one:









So I think there shouldn't be heat problems







. The first cooler in the pic is right near the ram slots, so the heat will be blown out directly out af the case through the 2 coolers and the cooler in the back of the case.

Are there any known problems by using all ram slots on the UD5 Board (8 GB RAM - RipJaws)?


----------



## Blitz6804

As that cooler is wider than my Megashadow, I would think the Ripjaws might be a bad choice. You may not be able to use a push fan (or will need to jerry rig a 92mm on it). If know the exact distance between the face of the cooler and the socket I can tell you if it will interfere with the RAM. The Megashadow is 74 mm wide, so it extends 37 mm from the center of the socket, and the RAM clears it. A 25mm fan would interfere, however.


----------



## Robi-G

So that's why I asked for the height ob the flares. The flares are about 5cm, the rip jaws should be near 4 cm. Have a look at the dimensions of the cooler (Link 1) than go to the FAQ's - Ram section (Link 2)

Link 1:
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=p...4&lng=en&set=1

Link 2:
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=f...d=34&lng=en#13

There they say that I should be fine with components near the cooler not higher than 44mm.
What I don't understand is, if I have to move the cooler sideways...

Am I proof now with the RipJaws or are there some doubts left, in the case of "yes" tell me about them, thanks


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robi-G* 
So my CPU Cooler is that one:









So I think there shouldn't be heat problems







. The first cooler in the pic is right near the ram slots, so the heat will be blown out directly out af the case through the 2 coolers and the cooler in the back of the case.

Are there any known problems by using all ram slots on the UD5 Board (8 GB RAM - RipJaws)?

Surf through Noctua's website and look for the RAM Compatibility List... I read it several times and finally decided to go for the Mushkin in sign, as they were compatible for sure and didn't want to waste my money.
By the way, if you want to install 4x2 sticks, remember that the compatibility issue is also for the two slots more distant from the socket, as they lay just under the 120mm fan.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Robi-G

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baio73* 
Surf through Noctua's website and look for the RAM Compatibility List... I read it several times and finally decided to go for the Mushkin in sign, as they were compatible for sure and didn't want to waste my money.
By the way, if you want to install 4x2 sticks, remember that the compatibility issue is also for the two slots more distant from the socket, as they lay just under the 120mm fan.
Ciao!
Baio

Mh, I cannot follow you exactly - in the first position is the 140mm fan, so therefore the issue should be caused by the 140mm fan? The 120mm fan is in the middle, over the cpu or am I wrong?

How's about the height of the muskin? Is enough space between cooler and ram?

So I saw that you also have a SSD on board. Have you installed Win 7 on it? Have you got any problems? Blue Screens, Boot lags? Which driver are you using?


----------



## Blitz6804

Based on the picture, you may have a problem. According to my ruler, it is 50 mm from the middle of the socket to the first DIMM, and 70 mm from the middle to the third DIMM.

If you want to run four DIMMs, you will need to make sure the RAM itself is less than 44 mm tall. The Ripjaws fail in this regard, and you would need to go with the ECOs.

If you want to run two DIMMs, you should be okay, as the fan on the face of the cooler can slide upwards to accommodate taller-than-standard RAM.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robi-G*


Mh, I cannot follow you exactly - in the first position is the 140mm fan, so therefore the issue should be caused by the 140mm fan? The 120mm fan is in the middle, over the cpu or am I wrong?


It's the other way round... the midlle fan is the 140mm, the external fan is a 120mm.

Quote:



How's about the height of the muskin? Is enough space between cooler and ram?


A few mm.... check here:

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=c...s_id=34&lng=en

but it seems to me Reepjaws are taller than needed.
The only other solution is removing the 120mm fan and go for only 2 sticks in DIMM_3 and 4.

Quote:



So I saw that you also have a SSD on board. Have you installed Win 7 on it? Have you got any problems? Blue Screens, Boot lags? Which driver are you using?


Do you mean chipset drivers?
I'm using Seven Home Premium 64bit and chipset drivers found in Gigabyte download section... no problem at all, good performances altough this SSD is not one of the tops.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Baio73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


[...]

If you want to run two DIMMs, you should be okay, as the fan on the face of the cooler can slide upwards to accommodate taller-than-standard RAM.


That's another possibility but remember the 120mm fan cannot slide upwards too much as you risk to have a part of it blowing outside the heatsink.
By the way, if you have a good air circulation into the case and don't bother about extreme cooling, you can remove the 120mm fan at the cost of a couple of degrees... in my reverse case, for example, I could get it off without loss, as there is a 180mm fan blowing upwards a few cm under the heatsink!








The last solution I can think of is installing the 120mm. fan in the back of the heatsink, but I don't know if it would be worthless, as it' s less performant for sure and you also have to reverse the fan's retention brackets...
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Robi-G

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Based on the picture, you may have a problem. According to my ruler, it is 50 mm from the middle of the socket to the first DIMM, and 70 mm from the middle to the third DIMM.

If you want to run four DIMMs, you will need to make sure the RAM itself is less than 44 mm tall. The Ripjaws fail in this regard, and you would need to go with the ECOs.

If you want to run two DIMMs, you should be okay, as the fan on the face of the cooler can slide upwards to accommodate taller-than-standard RAM.


My plan is to run 4 DIMMs; that's why I looked on the noctua page (also seen link posted above and quoted below), there they say that the cooler is compatible with the ripjaws, so I selected them. But if you say that I may have problems, I'll go with the ECOs.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Baio73*


It's the other way round... the midlle fan is the 140mm, the external fan is a 120mm.

A few mm.... check here:

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=c...s_id=34&lng=en

but it seems to me Reepjaws are taller than needed.
The only other solution is removing the 120mm fan and go for only 2 sticks in DIMM_3 and 4.

Do you mean chipset drivers?
I'm using Seven Home Premium 64bit and chipset drivers found in Gigabyte download section... no problem at all, good performances altough this SSD is not one of the tops.
Ciao!
Baio


So removing the 120mm would be the last way out of it, but I would be happier to let the 120mm fan in his position.

Yeah and also in which mode do you run your ssd? AHCI? Have you already tested your read / write speed?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Baio73*


That's another possibility but remember the 120mm fan cannot slide upwards too much as you risk to have a part of it blowing outside the heatsink.
By the way, if you have a good air circulation into the case and don't bother about extreme cooling, you can remove the 120mm fan at the cost of a couple of degrees... in my reverse case, for example, I could get it off without loss, as there is a 180mm fan blowing upwards a few cm under the heatsink!








The last solution I can think of is installing the 120mm. fan in the back of the heatsink, but I don't know if it would be worthless, as it' s less performant for sure and you also have to reverse the fan's retention brackets...
Ciao!
Baio



The case is a Lian Li Pc9, so the air circulation should be fine (2 fans 120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back near the CPU cooler). If I'm going to OC the whole story than I'm sure I'll need the 120mm fan







.

So if you all say me, that with the Eco's I'll be 100% fine, I'm going to take them


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Robi-G*


Yeah and also in which mode do you run your ssd? AHCI?


Definitely go with AHCI. Much gooderer







.


----------



## Blitz6804

My concern is based on the size of the cooler, it will interfere with DIMMs 1 and 2. The fan would interfere with DIMMs 3 and 4. If the Ripjaws are under 44mm tall, you will be okay. I know that when I had my DFI, they did NOT fit under my Megahalems, which has only 40mm of clearance.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


My concern is based on the size of the cooler, it will interfere with DIMMs 1 and 2. The fan would interfere with DIMMs 3 and 4. If the Ripjaws are under 44mm tall, you will be okay. I know that when I had my DFI, they did NOT fit under my Megahalems, which has only 40mm of clearance.


I had a megahalems in push/pull before I went with the H50, and i had to move my ram to slots 3 and 4 because of the height of the heatspreaders on my g. skill pi's

the nh-d14 is WAY wider than the megahalems, so i dont see how it would work..

but, cant you adjust the height of the push fan so it can clear the ram possibly? i rhought i read that somewhere in the features of the cooler


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, but that is my concern. Whereas the Megahalems just blocks the RAM if you have a fan (on this board), and clears otherwise, the Noctua blocks the RAM by itself. If you have a Megahalems (like me) and taller-than-average RAM (like when I had my G.Skill Pi onmy DFI), you will be often forced to have a pull fan only, not a push or push-pull configuration. This is true if you have the Revision 2.1, as you need to put RAM in 2/4. It is also true on both revisions if you want 4 DIMMs. If you have a Revision 2.0, and only want two DIMMs, you can push-pull only with a 25mm fan; a 38mm fan is too wide.

EDIT: I am curious, how much better, if anything, does the H50 cool? Some reviews say it is better, some say it is worse.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Robi-G* 

[...]

So removing the 120mm would be the last way out of it, but I would be happier to let the 120mm fan in his position.

Well... that's the way it's meant to be!









Quote:

Yeah and also in which mode do you run your ssd? AHCI? Have you already tested your read / write speed?
Yes, AHCI.
Made some benchmarks when I first got it, but results weren't anything special... the 128Gb model of Crucial SSD has not the remarkable performances of its bigger brother 256Gb.

Quote:

The case is a Lian Li Pc9, so the air circulation should be fine (2 fans 120mm fans in the front, 1 in the back near the CPU cooler). If I'm going to OC the whole story than I'm sure I'll need the 120mm fan







.
Just try with and without the 120mm fan and see... 1 or 2 degrees rarely make the difference between a stable and an unstable OC...

Quote:

So if you all say me, that with the Eco's I'll be 100% fine, I'm going to take them








Those will fit for sure.
But what are you gonna do with your pc to request 8Gb of RAM?








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Hoshiyo

Hey, I have one of these awesome mobos! I was thinking of getting the UD7 but the fact that I'd never go over three gfx cards in the future and saving cash for a 5870 led me to the UD5.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you put single-slot water blocks on them, I would think you can do 8/16/4/8 crossfire on the UD5. Do not quote me on that, but based purely on the numbers, I think it possible.


----------



## Robi-G

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
My concern is based on the size of the cooler, it will interfere with DIMMs 1 and 2. The fan would interfere with DIMMs 3 and 4. If the Ripjaws are under 44mm tall, you will be okay. I know that when I had my DFI, they did NOT fit under my Megahalems, which has only 40mm of clearance.

So I read somewhere that the height isn't more than 40mm, but if you say that you had problems, than there is something wrong in with this story. Anyways, I'm going to take the Eco Edition. Someone here know the height of them?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage* 
I had a megahalems in push/pull before I went with the H50, and i had to move my ram to slots 3 and 4 because of the height of the heatspreaders on my g. skill pi's

the nh-d14 is WAY wider than the megahalems, so i dont see how it would work..

but, cant you adjust the height of the push fan so it can clear the ram possibly? i rhought i read that somewhere in the features of the cooler

Do you know the height of your g skill rams?

Is it way wider or way higher? Wider shouldn't be a problem when I go with the ecos. How much space have you got under your fan?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
Yeah, but that is my concern. Whereas the Megahalems just blocks the RAM if you have a fan (on this board), and clears otherwise, the Noctua blocks the RAM by itself. If you have a Megahalems (like me) and taller-than-average RAM (like when I had my G.Skill Pi onmy DFI), you will be often forced to have a pull fan only, not a push or push-pull configuration. This is true if you have the Revision 2.1, as you need to put RAM in 2/4. It is also true on both revisions if you want 4 DIMMs. If you have a Revision 2.0, and only want two DIMMs, you can push-pull only with a 25mm fan; a 38mm fan is too wide.

EDIT: I am curious, how much better, if anything, does the H50 cool? Some reviews say it is better, some say it is worse.

Are you sure, that the noctua blocks the ram by itself? Isn't there any space left? BTW: Do you know the height of your ECO's`?

Finally someone who knows the difference between rev 2.1 and rev 2.0. Why did they change the DIMM Story on the 2.1? Are there any other modifications?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baio73* 
Well... that's the way it's meant to be!









Yes, AHCI.
Made some benchmarks when I first got it, but results weren't anything special... the 128Gb model of Crucial SSD has not the remarkable performances of its bigger brother 256Gb.

Just try with and without the 120mm fan and see... 1 or 2 degrees rarely make the difference between a stable and an unstable OC...

Those will fit for sure.
But what are you gonna do with your pc to request 8Gb of RAM?








Ciao!
Baio

So how high war your read rate? I'm going to put a Corsair F120 in my new computer, but I'm a bit worried due the driver story and the BSOD storys... How long do you have to wait until bios has finished to initialize the ssd?

My target is to build a machine that works not only for one year and than I have to change my hardware; I try to keep it as long as I can (if you have a look at my old PC: Intel Pentium 3 1,6 GHz HT with 512 Ram (don't know if they are even DDR ones..))


----------



## Blitz6804

The Rev 2.1 changes RAM to be 1/3 // 2/4 for dual channel whereas 2.0 is 1/2 // 3/4. It removed the core unlocker chip. Lastly, RAM is supported to 2000+ across all four DIMMs, whereas the Rev 2.0 is only 1866+ in 3/4; 1/2 is rated only to DDR3-1333. Since even the best AM3 processors are rated for DDR3-1066 in four DIMMs, I would not worry about that.

According to my measurements, it is about 50mm from the center of the socket to DIMM 1, and 70mm from the center of the socket to DIMM 3. Based on the Noctua-published width of 68mm from the center of the socket, DIMMs 1 and 2 will be covered by the cooler. In those slots, you need RAM less than 44mm in height. DIMMs 3 and 4 can be slightly taller given that you can move your fan up or down. I estimate the Ripjaws at 45mm or so. I know that when I had my DFI, DDR2-1200 Ripjaws, and a Mega Shadow, they did not fit underneath the cooler itself. If next to the cooler, I could not use a push fan, requiring a pull only.

I do not know the exact height of the ECO, but they are reference designed RAM and heat spreaders. They fit under the Mega Shadow without any issues at all, despite it only clearing 40mm. Looking in the top vent of the case with a ruler, I want to say around 30mm or so.


----------



## Robi-G

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
The Rev 2.1 changes RAM to be 1/3 // 2/4 for dual channel whereas 2.0 is 1/2 // 3/4. It removed the core unlocker chip. Lastly, RAM is supported to 2000+ across all four DIMMs, whereas the Rev 2.0 is only 1866+ in 3/4; 1/2 is rated only to DDR3-1333. Since even the best AM3 processors are rated for DDR3-1066 in four DIMMs, I would not worry about that.

According to my measurements, it is about 50mm from the center of the socket to DIMM 1, and 70mm from the center of the socket to DIMM 3. Based on the Noctua-published width of 68mm from the center of the socket, DIMMs 1 and 2 will be covered by the cooler. In those slots, you need RAM less than 44mm in height. DIMMs 3 and 4 can be slightly taller given that you can move your fan up or down. I estimate the Ripjaws at 45mm or so. I know that when I had my DFI, DDR2-1200 Ripjaws, and a Mega Shadow, they did not fit underneath the cooler itself. If next to the cooler, I could not use a push fan, requiring a pull only.

I do not know the exact height of the ECO, but they are reference designed RAM and heat spreaders. They fit under the Mega Shadow without any issues at all, despite it only clearing 40mm. Looking in the top vent of the case with a ruler, I want to say around 30mm or so.


So with 4 DIMMs I cannt go above 1066?

Mh, 30mm would be just fine. How much space is left between your cooler and the DIMM Slots?

I remember that Baio has the same cooler than I've choosen, he has installed the "2x2Gb Mushkin Redline 996805 1600 6-8-6-24" - if the height of them is approximately the height of the eco's than it will be ok.

In general now: Is somebody using a Corsair F120 SSD on the 890fx UD5? Would be nice to hear some impressions.


----------



## Blitz6804

According to AMD, no. I have found that with four DIMMs installed, however, my 6.67 divider is unstable at any HTT. The 5.33 divider is stable even with HTTs as high as 300 MHz. Two DIMMs I could use the 6.67 divider at certain speeds, and the 8.00 divider at fewer speeds.

Vertically, about 10mm between the top of the RAM and the base of the cooler.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
The Rev 2.1 changes RAM to be 1/3 // 2/4 for dual channel whereas 2.0 is 1/2 // 3/4. It removed the core unlocker chip. Lastly, RAM is supported to 2000+ across all four DIMMs, whereas the Rev 2.0 is only 1866+ in 3/4; 1/2 is rated only to DDR3-1333. Since even the best AM3 processors are rated for DDR3-1066 in four DIMMs, I would not worry about that.

According to my measurements, it is about 50mm from the center of the socket to DIMM 1, and 70mm from the center of the socket to DIMM 3. Based on the Noctua-published width of 68mm from the center of the socket, DIMMs 1 and 2 will be covered by the cooler. In those slots, you need RAM less than 44mm in height. DIMMs 3 and 4 can be slightly taller given that you can move your fan up or down. I estimate the Ripjaws at 45mm or so. I know that when I had my DFI, DDR2-1200 Ripjaws, and a Mega Shadow, they did not fit underneath the cooler itself. If next to the cooler, I could not use a push fan, requiring a pull only.

I do not know the exact height of the ECO, but they are reference designed RAM and heat spreaders. They fit under the Mega Shadow without any issues at all, despite it only clearing 40mm. Looking in the top vent of the case with a ruler, I want to say around 30mm or so.

awesome, i always wondered this myself...

I have a rev 2.0 board, and my ram running at ddr3 1600 in slots 1 and 2...shouldnt matter right?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you want them to go any faster, it would not hurt to try them in slots 3/4. As Gigabyte says: "To reach DDR3 1866MHz or above, you must install two memory modules and install them in the DDR3_3 and DDR3_4 memory sockets."


----------



## Robi-G

Damn, is this a controller issue or is it also depending on the voltage used on the rams?
So buying ECO's - 4x2GB 1600 modules is useless because I have to use them in any case only at 1066?

A little Update: First I wrote a Email to G Skill, let's see the answer:

Quote:



Dear customer,

The height from bottom of motherboard to top of RipJaws is around 4.2~4.3 cm

Thanks


Afterwards I wrote to Noctua; the support team from Noctua answered, that they heave there some field reports over there about the Rip Jaws under the NH D14 with no problems, but If I want to be on the secure side, I should go with the Ecos...

So yeah, now I have no idea what I should do...


----------



## Blitz6804

The Noctua claims it is 44mm. If G.Skill says they are 42.5mm (approx) they will JUST BARELY fit. Worst case, carefully desolder and remove the base plate on that side?

As to the 1600... They are not worthless. If you set your RAM to 5.33 (DDR3-1066) and crank up your HTT to 300, you now have DDR3-1599. 6.67 x 240 will also do it if your CPU is nicer than mine is. Note, however, that you cannot use the 4.00x (DDR3-800) divider with this RAM; it will not POST.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
The Noctua claims it is 44mm. If G.Skill says they are 42.5mm (approx) they will JUST BARELY fit. Worst case, carefully desolder and remove the base plate on that side?

As to the 1600... They are not worthless. If you set your RAM to 5.33 (DDR3-1066) and crank up your HTT to 300, you now have DDR3-1599. 6.67 x 240 will also do it if your CPU is nicer than mine is. Note, however, that you cannot use the 4.00x (DDR3-800) divider with this RAM; it will not POST.

im using the x8 multi on my g skill pi's in slots 1 and 2 and im at ddr3 1600


----------



## Blitz6804

You have only 2 DIMMs. With 4 DIMMs, things get dicier. 200x8 does not POST for example. At least, not for me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am currently stability testing with a slightly lower multiplier and slightly higher HTT. 14x286 in fact instead of my 14.5x276. I gain all of 2 MHz, but more importantly, 100 MHz on the NB and 53 MHz on the RAM. I was trying 13.5x300 (and even 13x300) but the Northbridge was not caring for it.

EDIT: It should be added that my test suite this time is:

1x Prime95, 6 workers, "Blend" modified to use 6400 MB of RAM instead of the default 1600 BM
1x Kombustor 1.0.7, 800x600, OpenGL2, 0xMSAA
1x FluidMark 1.2.0, 800x600, Multi-core PhysX, 5 Emitters, 60,000 particles, 0xMSAA
1x CoreTemp 0.99.10

After one half hour (1/48th the way through testing) I am reading 52Âº C on the corrected core temp. For the record, cores are loading 100%, RAM is loaded 96%, nVidia is loaded 72%, ATi1 is loaded 40%, and ATi2 is loaded 25%. The point is not to really stress the GPUs, but to ensure that the Northbridge and Hypertransport are getting a workout.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I'll chime in here on my personal experiences.

I must have a really good 1090T. I decided to try overclocking the 2x4GB Gskill 1300 I had, and it wouldn't..nor would it tighten timings, regardless of voltage. Fine, I can live with that. I decided to try out the RMA'd Corsair Dominator 4x2GB setup (brand new since my part number was obsolete).
I slapped all 4 sticks in, put the voltage to the rated 1.65, and all the timings with it (8-8-8-24), but went with 1T timing. I have had no stability issues so far running it at 1600 speed (200x8), and I want to try dropping the timings to see how well it does. The fact it's running 1T surprised me quite a bit. So, I know it's possible to run 4 sticks, but it will require a very good mem controller.

I can't 100% verify stability, but I've run Prime plenty on it, and then started up some gaming, while defragging, and downloading. So far I've not had a single issue. No crashes (haven't had that at all since getting the new board and RAM). I'll keep testing it and see how it goes, but so far I'm pretty happy. Now to get the timings down to where they were before (7-8-7-18 ) and keep 1T.


----------



## Kantastic

Hey guys, I recently acquired a new 890FXA-UD5 but I'm running into some problems. For some very, very odd reason, whenever the computer starts up, it'll go through POST and blah blah, then when a normal computer would automatically load the OS, my board says "Loading Operating System..." then it restarts itself. After one restart, it'll load up the OS right away without that message.

Before I do anything like update the BIOS, is this a common issue or is it just my board?


----------



## Caterpillar

Hi guys, I was surfing the internet to look for differences between the UD7 Rev 2.0 and the Rev 2.1, so I found this topic. I've read in the topic some differencies, but it is almost impossible to read 211 pages, so I ask it again here:
do you suggest me to buy the 2.0 or the 2.1? I am not interested in unlocking cores, but I like a lot having 4 banks of ram operating at 1600Mhz. Is it possible? I've read something about Phenom II and ram speed but I did not understand it.

Other thing: do you know where I can buy the 2.1? It is impossible to find it!


----------



## rickshaw

I got myself the UD5 couple of weeks ago and got the revision 2.0. I called around town and could not find any 2.1. Emailed Gigabyte and asked if I can get the 2.1 board in exchange for my 2.0 but they said they can't do that.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Caterpillar*


Hi guys, I was surfing the internet to look for differences between the UD7 Rev 2.0 and the Rev 2.1, so I found this topic. I've read in the topic some differencies, but it is almost impossible to read 211 pages, so I ask it again here:
do you suggest me to buy the 2.0 or the 2.1? I am not interested in unlocking cores, but I like a lot having 4 banks of ram operating at 1600Mhz. Is it possible? I've read something about Phenom II and ram speed but I did not understand it.

Other thing: do you know where I can buy the 2.1? It is impossible to find it!


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickshaw*


I got myself the UD5 couple of weeks ago and got the revision 2.0. I called around town and could not find any 2.1. Emailed Gigabyte and asked if I can get the 2.1 board in exchange for my 2.0 but they said they can't do that.


Version 2.0 is better than 2.1. There are some components removed from version 2.1, possibly to save money. Both versions are very similar though.


----------



## Caterpillar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


Version 2.0 is better than 2.1. There are some components removed from version 2.1, possibly to save money. Both versions are very similar though.


Except for the chip that unlocks the hidden cores of cpu, what are the other good things removed?
I can see that the memory speed is better in 2.1

Other question: is it possible to install the UD7 into the Antec P193 case?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


Version 2.0 is better than 2.1. There are some components removed from version 2.1, possibly to save money. Both versions are very similar though.


The Rev. 2.0 only support 1866+ RAM speed in a single channel while the Rev. 2.1 support that RAM speed in both channels.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Caterpillar*


Except for the chip that unlocks the hidden cores of cpu, what are the other good things removed?
I can see that the memory speed is better in 2.1

Other question: is it possible to install the UD7 into the Antec P193 case?


The UD7 is a E-ATX mobo and the P193 support Mini-ITX, microATX, ATX, Extended ATX so isn't possible install the UD7 inside the P193.


----------



## rickshaw

Hi, anyone here with these components? I seem to be having problems with the the PSU's wire that connects to the motherboard's ATX_12V. Since the PSU sits at the bottom of the case the cable is kind of short or maybe I am just not doing something right.

Anyone?


----------



## Blitz6804

This extension cable should solve your problems. You can get also a sleeved version if you would rather, but I prefer the $4 option shipped. I have bought many times from SVC and have never had a problem with any of their products, just for the record.


----------



## Caterpillar

and for UD5 what are the differencies between 2.0 and 2.1? The same as UD7?


----------



## Blitz6804

Same as UD7. Yep.

fidof650: I think it is time for the v2.0/v2.1 to be put in the FAQ.


----------



## JediMaster

Hi guys,
I'm building myself a pretty hefty water cooled system (just got my giant Coolermaster HAF X case, Phobya Xtreme Nova 1080 radiator + 9x CM sickleflow 120 fans), and I guess will likely get the 2.1 version of the UD7.
What memory should I go for, is it worth going for 2000+Mhz or should I go for something slower clock and lower CL etc?
I was looking at getting:
2 sets (4x2GB chips - 8GB): Corsair DDR3 2000MHz Memory Kit Non-ECC (9-9-9-24) 1.65V
Also going for the AMD x6 1090T cpu and 2x GTX 460s in SLI, and 2xSSD in striped RAID.
Any comments on the memory?
Thanks.


----------



## saint19

@JediMaster: AMD loves the lower CL over faster speed so u can go to the 1st page to check the recommended RAM like this: http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=226


----------



## saiyanzzrage

this is going to sound really pathetic (and noobish lol) but where is the southbridge on this mobo? my tmpin0 temps are creeping high a bit lately, and i wanted to see if i could maybe put a fan on it...i remember reading that tmpin0/motherboard temps on gigabyte boards are reading the southbridge temp? if so, whats a safe range temp wise for it?


----------



## Blitz6804

Its the sink above the battery, to the left of the SATA ports unless I am mistaken. The chipset is below the socket, and the PWMs are to the left.


----------



## saint19

^+1 near to the SATA ports.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

ok cool, thanks guys...can you confirm that the "motherboard" / "tmpin0" is the sb temp? If so, I wonder if my gtx 470 is heating it up?

Does having raid increase the sb temps?

also, what are the safe temp values for the sb?


----------



## Blitz6804

If you are seeing anything less than 50Âº C, I would not even worry about it. In fact, I would posit until you start seeing 65Âº C should you consider there might be a problem. As to the temperature where it is dangerous, I want to say 80Âº C. But do not quote me on that.


----------



## saint19

I support to Blitz6804 the 890 and 850 are supposed to support 80ÂºC but I'd not go over 70ÂºC.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


I support to Blitz6804 the 890 and 850 are supposed to support 80ÂºC but I'd not go over 70ÂºC.


thanks blitz and saint!!


----------



## rickshaw

Hi. Thanks for that. I'll also get the extension for the 24 pin one.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


This extension cable should solve your problems. You can get also a sleeved version if you would rather, but I prefer the $4 option shipped. I have bought many times from SVC and have never had a problem with any of their products, just for the record.


----------



## JediMaster

Just bought the UD7 board, after being told it was a 2.0, a 2.1 revision arrived =)
Posted my spec earlier and completely forgot that this is an ATI chipset so no official SLI (which nobody spotted!)
Well the board and two gigabyte GTX 460 1GB's just turned up with it...
So, before I unpack it all, has anyone got SLI working on this board?
I have seen the SLIPatch says someone has had success with the 890FX Asus board and in theory it should work with any chipset/board.
Feel really stupid for not checking it had SLI support, duh


----------



## JediMaster

Well, quick update, the motherboard and both the gigabyte graphics cards don't have seals on the boxes, so I'm going to try it out (running the mobo on a desk so don't have to screw it into the case), and if it doesn't work I can send back the mobo or the GPUs.
Luckily I happen to have two SLI ultra-wide connectors (fits both cards in the X16 slots) sitting around from my old ancient Abit AWD9 motherboard, which still appear to fit the SLI connector on the GTX 460s, being that this motherboard didn't come with any SLI connectors (not having official support for it!)


----------



## saint19

Welcome to the club JediMaster.

Add ur rig details and try the SLI like u say it's theoretically possible in any mobo.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Is it just me or does "System Voltage NOT Optimized!!" just not go away unless set to auto or cpu host clock control kept at auto?

It blinks even if the system is completely stable and all the voltages are set to normal or higher.









edit: This is the case for all BIOS I've tried, I'm currently using F3 and the board came with F4.


----------



## saint19

^As far I know this only happens when u change the FSB, but even that u can ignore it since like u says this isn't always true more when u are overclocking.


----------



## Blitz6804

Fir3Chi3f: The not optimized appears whenever it is not set to auto.

JediMaster: Motherboards do not appear to ship with bridges anymore at all. No crossfire bridge came with this board, for example. I believe motherboard manufacturers are leaving that task to GPU manufacturers. SLI is not officially supported, but supposedly can be easily hacked on most nVidia GPUs. There are still some sporadic issues with the GTX 460, but the GTX 470/480 and almost anything older works without a hitch.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

My system was going fine, and then I tried overclocking it just a little....yeah, right. F4 BIOS is a joke. I can't overclock even a little without having to throw huge voltage jumps at every single thing...and this is for a 200 Mhz bump.

I jumped back to F3 and tried...it's a little better. This specific board likes to undervolt like crazy, too. Voltage is BIOS set for 1.375 volts....CPUZ reads it as 1.168. That alone might explain any instability with overclocking. On the upshot, it will run at stock speed on that voltage, and runs cold (34C with the heatsink in my sig).

I'm not even going to try F5 judging from the posts concerning it. I think Gigabyte may need to pull the rabbit out of its butt and come up with a solid BIOS...this is becoming tedious.


----------



## bluepiglet

well, i found the board unable to stablize the system when all 4 ram slots are occupied @ 1333mhz. i had to lower the mem speed to 1066mhz to prevent some random shut down.

i heard the 890fx does a better job with rams. is this true? if so, should i get the upgrade or wait for the next generation boards?


----------



## saint19

^That usually happens with the 1st mobo revision but is fixed in the new versions. The 890-UD5 is a very good mobo but the 1st revision has the same problem but with 1866+ RAM.

U an go with a new mobo since like I say even the new mobos that will comes for bulldozer could have the same limitation.


----------



## Blitz6804

I need to run my RAM on the DDR3-1066 divider on the 890FXA-UD5 to be stable. However, with the HTT, I can push it back up near DDR3-1600. It is a limitation of the K10.5, not the motherboard.


----------



## bluepiglet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I need to run my RAM on the DDR3-1066 divider on the 890FXA-UD5 to be stable. However, with the HTT, I can push it back up near DDR3-1600. It is a limitation of the K10.5, not the motherboard.


the frustrating thing is, it can run 1600mhz no problem with only 2 stick. but once i inserted the extra 2, it doesnt hold even at 1333mhz.


----------



## Blitz6804

Exactly. Drop your divider to 1066, and crank up the HTT. 300 MHz brings you back to DDR3-1600.


----------



## JediMaster

I am hugely happy to report the SLIPatch works with the UD7 v2.1 board, I have dual GTX 460s in SLI on an AMD 890FX chipset, yay.
Also, OCZ Reaper HPC, got 8GB (4 chips) running at 1600Mhz 6-8-6-24 @ 1.65V (it's rated speeds) first time.
I'm yet to try any OC yet, I have the cpu and motherboard hooked up to the massive Phobya Nova 1080 radiator with 9 CM sickleflow fans =)
It's slightly noisy but not too bad, not got the fans regulated on the radiator yet.
Now to find a waterblock that fits the two Gigabyte GTX 460 OC 1GB.


----------



## saint19

^Nice


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

New Members added

Links checked

Spreadsheets proofed for continuity
Please, keep the Memory reviews coming as well as suggestions for the FAQ.

Keep up the good work!!!

~fidof650


----------



## Blitz6804

You missed my "What is the difference between v2.0 and v2.1" suggestion for the FAQ maybe.


----------



## saint19

Now that u says the RAM, I test the OC @ 3.8GHz with RAM [email protected] and works without problems.


----------



## christoph

can I join?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quick question that I've never seen asked or answered here before regarding chipset/mosfet cooling....

Has anyone tried installing an aftermarket mosfet and/or chipset cooler? If so..what model? How does it compare to the stock offering? For some reason I don't like seeing TMPIN2 at 40+C under load. The way it spikes really makes me think it's measuring VRM temps (a good idea if it is). My trusty themometer says the VRMs are running in the high 30's C, into the low 40's...pretty much what TMPIN2 states. If this is true...too high for the things imo. Chipsets might take that temp, but I've never trusted a mosfet after 100F (38C) when under duress.

So, to sum up another long-winded (and growing larger) question, please talk about cooling this thing. Heck...send me some PMs if you don't want to clutter up this thread.

Thanks!


----------



## rickshaw

Just got myself an SSD, OCZ Vertex 2 120gb. Can someone tell me what I need to do to set this up? I am going to use it as my primary drive, loading my OS in it. Also, what do I have to properly set in the BIOS to activate the AHCI mode? I see that there are several things that can be set in here but which ones do I need to set?

Thanks,

Rick..


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fidof650* 

Please, keep the Memory reviews coming as well as suggestions for the FAQ.

Keep up the good work!!!

~fidof650

Not sure if anyone has recommended the GSkill Flares, but they have been great on my system.
I am running the 2x2Gb kit of F3-16000CL7D-4GBFLS and have found that I can run them at their rated specs of 7-9-7-24 @ 2000Mhz no problem.
Currently have them running 6-8-6-22-1T @ 1800Mhz Memtested ok.
Anyone thinking of getting these will be quite happy with them.


----------



## JediMaster

Tried some overclocking, and very easily got the X6 1090T running @4.0Ghz with 200x20:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1465449
CPU running idle at stock speed: 27-28C
@4Ghz: 33C idle, 42C under load, and the waterblock keeping the mosfets/NB/SB nice and cool =)


----------



## saint19

^Good. How stable is it?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
can I join?




Quote:


Originally Posted by *JediMaster* 
Tried some overclocking, and very easily got the X6 1090T running @4.0Ghz with 200x20:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1465449
CPU running idle at stock speed: 27-28C
@4Ghz: 33C idle, 42C under load, and the waterblock keeping the mosfets/NB/SB nice and cool =)

Click this link to add your information and your CPU-Z validation link to the spread sheet.

Or click the link in the *Instructions* above the spread sheet on P1.









~fidof650


----------



## JediMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
^Good. How stable is it?

So far, completely stable, played a few hours of games with no problems, various benchmarks, but haven't had time to do any burn-in tests

Sent from my Dell Streak using Tapatalk


----------



## DrBrownfinger

will a haf x fit a ud7 with quadfire? thanks in advance.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JediMaster* 
Tried some overclocking, and very easily got the X6 1090T running @4.0Ghz with 200x20:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1465449
CPU running idle at stock speed: 27-28C
@4Ghz: 33C idle, 42C under load, and the waterblock keeping the mosfets/NB/SB nice and cool =)

We have the same OC, same Vcore... do you have the CPU underwater or are you cooling it with air?
I have idle temps (@4.00Ghz) around 28-29 but under load I go over 50 degrees.
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DrBrownfinger* 
will a haf x fit a ud7 with quadfire? thanks in advance.

Watchout, UD7 is an E-ATX mobo... does the case support this standard?
I realized it after I bought both mobo and case, ande had to Dremel it a little to fit...








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## DrBrownfinger

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baio73* 
Watchout, UD7 is an E-ATX mobo... does the case support this standard?
I realized it after I bought both mobo and case, ande had to Dremel it a little to fit...








Ciao!
Baio

thanks for the response. its XL-ATX not E-ATX and the haf x has 9 expansion slots so i would certainly hope the mobo will at least fit in it. im just not sure if i will run into a problem with the bottom card not venting properly or something along those lines. any other case suggestions would be appreciated as im not set on buying a haf x just yet.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DrBrownfinger* 
thanks for the response. its XL-ATX not E-ATX and the haf x has 9 expansion slots so i would certainly hope the mobo will at least fit in it. im just not sure if i will run into a problem with the bottom card not venting properly or something along those lines. any other case suggestions would be appreciated as im not set on buying a haf x just yet.

Right, *XL-ATX*.
I think it's not a matter of expansion slots, but of dimensions... my case does not support XL-ATX mobos and when I put the UD7 in, it could'nt fit beacuse of the hdds rack... but expansion slot number was ok.
If I was you, I'd check the case specs carefully...








Ciao!
Baio


----------



## JediMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Baio73* 
We have the same OC, same Vcore... do you have the CPU underwater or are you cooling it with air?
I have idle temps (@4.00Ghz) around 28-29 but under load I go over 50 degrees.
Ciao!
Baio

Yeah, under water =) I have a Phobya Nova 1080 rad with 9 coolermaster sickleflow fans


----------



## JediMaster

I have done some benchmarks on the two Corsair SSDs that are rated at 275MB/sec, I have them on the USB3 controller in RAID 0, and the best benchmark out of all the tests only gets 273MB/sec, what's going on? I know it's sort of software raid, but I was expecting better than that (like 400MB/sec?)
Any ideas what's going on?
Running Windows 7 64bit on the UD7 v2.1 if that makes any difference


----------



## JediMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DrBrownfinger* 
will a haf x fit a ud7 with quadfire? thanks in advance.

I have the CoolerMaster HAF X case with the UD7 motherboard and NVidia SLI on two cards with no problems (with the SLIPatch!)
The motherboard fits in perfectly into the case, more than enough room on all sides.
Looking at the bottom slot, it should be fine but the heatsink may make it difficult to put the USB front panel connectors in.
I've taken the side off to double check, there is definately two spare slots on the back of the case for the bottom card, shouldn't be a problem.
The HAF X is a fantastic case, the cable management is fantastic on it, and comes with plenty of hefty 20-24cm case fans and good water cooling support too (I have a dual bay res and external 9x12cm fan radiator)


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

Members list edited
Members Spreadsheet updated: Erroneous posts eliminated / Edited for continuety

Keep up the good work!

~fidof650


----------



## Junglebizz

4 weeks later, I got my friends computer back and I think the issues she was having were a little more serious than firefox crashing once in a while. Windows Updates no longer work, AVG will not run and cannot be uninstalled or repaired, System Restore gives blue screens. 









here are the CPU/memory settings last used on the computer. Any ideas?


----------



## adamlau

Adding the club to my sig two days early as shall be joining your ranks on Wednesday







. Going to see how the UD5 stacks up to the CIV Extreme in terms of user-friendliness







.


----------



## Blitz6804

Roll back to F3, see if that helps any.


----------



## Junglebizz

Is F4/F5 known to cause issues over F3? It was also suggested to me that I leave the NB voltage at stock speeds and increase the CPU NB VID to 1.250. I will give that a try. Any of the settings look incorrect? I am just trying to achieve stock speeds that are stable. I would think that stability at stock speeds should be easily achievable, no?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I never tried F5 out of fear of any hard drive issues...I don't use RAID, but I was still avoiding any possible problems. F4 seemed ok, but when I tried OCing it was very unstable. However, that may not be the BIOS so much as a very, very poor implementation of turbo core on the board (or whatever AMD's nomenclature may be).
With turbo core enabled I noticed the board likes to default to 1.475 volts CPU core, and taking it below that will drop voltage more than normal (.2 volt variance between setting and actual). If turbo core is disabled, the board recognizes 1.300 volts as normal vcore (1.325 was normal I thought).
I may try F4 BIOS again, as it had a few more options with virtualization, and then report back if disabling Turbo core also resolves the FUBAR voltage settings.

Also....I absolutely loathe the fan control on the UD5. I have a high flow fan, and on PWM, the board runs it full tilt. On voltage it drops down unless the CPU is around 30C, and then it spins up the fan a LOT. ET6 is junk, won't load properly with Windows for me, and then breaks all fan control, leaving the fan spinning full tilt. I'm going to try a thermally controlled fan, or perhaps just using a fan controller (have one on order). I've noticed this board really hates being told to manually set the FSB at all, too. Setting to manual 200, when auto is 200, seems to destabilize the whole shot. I have to admit; I've had much easier times with other boards.


----------



## fidof650

Been running F4 since just after it came out with no issues.
Same conservative settings as in the OP spreadsheet.
In fact I've never had a problem with any of the BIOS updates.
Haven't felt the need to try F5 yet.
I think I'll wait for F6... should be anytime now if history repeats.









~fidof650


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I'm waiting to see what F6 is like, too.

In the next day or so I'll be removing my board, measuring things, and replacing the stock heatsink with something that has real surface area. I have a smattering of old P4 and 754 heatsinks (some socket A ones, too), and will take a hacksaw, dremel, and shop press to them as needed to shape them to fit. I will be taking measurements of the finished products, as well as pictures, in case anyone wants to duplicate my work in a roundabout way. Hopefully by next week all will be finished, and posted. Then I'll post about temperature improvement.


----------



## Blitz6804

Reusing old parts to improve modern tech? BRILLIANT! I look forward to how it turns out.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Mostly it's because I can't find replacement heatsinks easily or cheaply, so I might as well do something useful with my tools. My car actually sports a K6-2 heatink for the ignition module.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

After running prime95 for a little less than 4 hours I restarted looking to up the multiplier another notch and the bios comes up with it's "unstable changing settings to default" message. This seems incorrect after passing prime for this amount of time.

I don't have to change anything to fix this, just enter the bios and exit. Starts up without a hitch.

Has anyone else noticed this? Is there something I'm missing?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


... My car actually sports a K6-2 heatink for the ignition module.


Pics or it didn't happen


----------



## UnexplodedCow

If it's doing that, try reflashing the BIOS, reseating the RAM, or trying a little higher CPU voltage. I had similar issues with my first UD5, and it turned out to be a combination of wonky board and RAM that was impossible to troubleshoot. Are you getting any BSOD?

EDIT:

You asked...here's a shot of the proof. Taken tonight, about 10 minutes ago. The other pic is my first attempt at throwing heatsinks on something. If you can guess the card, and what's been done to it, you deserve a cookie. This was done about 3.5 years ago, so I have improved somewhat. The car's heatsink was done in 2005. Both are hideous, but very functional.

The car:


The old system:


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


If it's doing that, try reflashing the BIOS, reseating the RAM, or trying a little higher CPU voltage. I had similar issues with my first UD5, and it turned out to be a combination of wonky board and RAM that was impossible to troubleshoot. Are you getting any BSOD?


From what I can remember it has done this for F3, F4 and F5, but I'll give it another reflash for good measure. No blue screen, I've been playing starcraft 2 and it seems completely stable. More cpu voltage? That worries me since my temps are getting to 62C at load.

I got this thing back from RMA last month and I don't know that they did anything to it: S/N is the same, my ethernet ports stopped working the night it came back (alas only one time so far) and this. I do believe you understand my pain after reading through your experience.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Yeah, if you're hitting those temps, it might be wise to back off a little, and give yourself some breathing room. What speed is the CPU currently running at?

Maybe try a few passes of Memtest, although that's not definitive for your RAM. I still suspect the board. Maybe try giving Gigabyte a call, and talk to them. That's when I had better service. For what it's worth...this can be a hell of a board, or just plain hell. I hope it works out for you sooner than later.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Yeah, if you're hitting those temps, it might be wise to back off a little, and give yourself some breathing room. What speed is the CPU currently running at?

Maybe try a few passes of Memtest, although that's not definitive for your RAM. I still suspect the board. Maybe try giving Gigabyte a call, and talk to them. That's when I had better service. For what it's worth...this can be a hell of a board, or just plain hell. I hope it works out for you sooner than later.


Cpu's at 3.75Ghz (300X12.5) and no problems at 3.6Ghz (300X12). I'll give memtest a few runs tomorrow- I can't sleep with the computer on. I'm gpu limited in games so I wouldn't mind running stock speeds, just seeing what this girl can do.

There is an order to these things- If I can't figure it out- go to the internet, if you guys can't help- call the manufacturer. This thread is one of the reasons I got the board, knew I could find alot of others with the same board.









PS - I think its a Radeon HD 2000, but some things on the pcb just don't line up.


----------



## Blitz6804

Based on the fact it is missing supplemental power, I was thinking it was something more like a Radeon 9500.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Heh...both wrong. Look closer... it has supplemental power (look at the far right of the card...white 4 pin Molex connector). However, I will say it is VGA. And if you notice the motherboard in the back, it's Socket A..which should date the system nicely.

I could be nice and just tell you to look at my profile and you'll see one of the systems posted has the specs.


----------



## Blitz6804

Might be a Radeon X800 then for all I know. The 9500 was AGP as well, as was the 9700 I had. As was the X1600. As was the X1950 and HD 3850... *Chuckle.*


----------



## d3mon

Can anyone tell me if a thermalright silver arrow cpu cooler will fit on the 890fxa ud7??
Thanks in advance


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

"FAQ" updated per member recommendation:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
You missed my "What is the difference between v2.0 and v2.1" suggestion for the FAQ maybe.



"Member Memory Recommendations" updated

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crunchie* 
I am running the 2x2Gb kit of F3-16000CL7D-4GBFLS and have found that I can run them at their rated specs of 7-9-7-24 @ 2000Mhz no problem.
Currently have them running 6-8-6-22-1T @ 1800Mhz Memtested ok.
Anyone thinking of getting these will be quite happy with them.


Sorry for the delay








~fidof650


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Update: So far I haven't finished the heatsinks, but they've been coming together slowly. Most of the work was done today...being out of town during the weekend takes its toll on finishing projects. No pictures to post yet, but I hope to be finished tomorrow, and post some pictures of the finished products, along with some measurements, and a basic method for DIY heatinks.
The biggest challenge is the VRM heatsink, and I'm piecing 3 different heatsinks together to make this work...probably the ugliest of the bunch, but it should be sufficiently better than the stock stuff. For what it's worth, all heatsinks were making good contact with everything. There's just not enough surface area.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
Update: So far I haven't finished the heatsinks, but they've been coming together slowly. Most of the work was done today...being out of town during the weekend takes its toll on finishing projects. No pictures to post yet, but I hope to be finished tomorrow, and post some pictures of the finished products, along with some measurements, and a basic method for DIY heatinks.
The biggest challenge is the VRM heatsink, and I'm piecing 3 different heatsinks together to make this work...probably the ugliest of the bunch, but it should be sufficiently better than the stock stuff. For what it's worth, all heatsinks were making good contact with everything. There's just not enough surface area.


Well crap. This project came to a screeching halt....the Dremel blew up midway through the NB heatsink...and it saw very little use. Most of it was hand-powered hacksawing. I'll take some pics of the one finished VRM heatsink and post that. I'm a bit disappointed right now.


----------



## KMPLAYER

Will GA-890FXA-UD5 have a problem working with Barracuda 7200.8 *300 GB* Ultra ATA/100 ( GBST3300831A ) ?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KMPLAYER* 
Will GA-890FXA-UD5 have a problem working with Barracuda 7200.8 *300 GB* Ultra ATA/100 ( GBST3300831A ) ?

None, just remember configure the HD as master or slave if you have another IDE drive.


----------



## KMPLAYER

Because Asus M4A87TD EVO does not support *Seagate IDE* ( Link ).


----------



## saint19

I'm running two IDE drives in the mobo (CD-RW and DVD-RW) without problems.


----------



## KMPLAYER

ThankS, saint19.

Will be there a problem for the GA-890FXA-UD5 rev.2.0 or rev. 2.1 motherboard to run CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 (CORSAIR 2 x 2GB DDR III 1600 XMS3 CL7), because they are not in the list with supported memory ?

http://www.corsair.com/configurator/...spx?id=1298083 On this list, i dont find GA-890FXA-UD5, so i suppose it will not work with CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 ?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KMPLAYER* 
ThankS, saint19.

Will be there a problem for the GA-890FXA-UD5 rev.2.0 or rev. 2.1 motherboard to run CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 (CORSAIR 2 x 2GB DDR III 1600 XMS3 CL7), because they are not in the list with supported memory ?

http://www.corsair.com/configurator/...spx?id=1298083 On this list, i dont find GA-890FXA-UD5, so i suppose it will not work with CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 ?

The kit that you want could or could not works fine, check the 1st page to know the recommended RAM kits for the users. Many of those kit of the 1st page aren't in the QVL but works at rated speed and setting without problems.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KMPLAYER* 
ThankS, saint19.

Will be there a problem for the GA-890FXA-UD5 rev.2.0 or rev. 2.1 motherboard to run CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 (CORSAIR 2 x 2GB DDR III 1600 XMS3 CL7), because they are not in the list with supported memory ?

http://www.corsair.com/configurator/...spx?id=1298083 On this list, i dont find GA-890FXA-UD5, so i suppose it will not work with CMX4GX3M2A1600C7 ?


Read Gigabyte's QVL, and it might mention the RAM. Chances are it will work. For what it's worth, I run Dominator DDR3 1600 C8 8GB kit, and it runs just fine.

http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileLi...-ud5_v.2.1.pdf


----------



## Obakemono

Hey Cow, you have a pic of yer case?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Scratch that up to another of the things I need to do. However, here's the link for it, although Newegg no longer sells it. Still, it can be found elsewhere.

My case isn't quite the same; I cut 2 more fan holes on the motherboard side, and for the hard drive fans I plan on modifying for filters, as I've tried fitting foam for them, but it never works out. I also put 2" locking casters around to help with moving...it's a bit heavy. I have all the parts to cut the holes for the fan filters...except the blown dremel is a problem now. That also reminds me..I need to upload a couple shots of the VRM heatsink.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ImageG...omputer%20Case


----------



## KMPLAYER

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Read Gigabyte's QVL, and it might mention the RAM. Chances are it will work. For what it's worth, I run *Dominator DDR3 1600 C8 8GB kit*, and it runs just fine.


This: CM*D*8GX3M4A1600C8 or CM*P*8GX3M4A1600C8 ?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I originally had the cmD series, and it ran fine, but a stick flaked. It was replaced with cmP, and also works fine. Sooooo, both work


----------



## rickshaw

Hi. I am going to reinstall my Win 7 Pro on my SSD and I am having hard time understanding the motherboard manual on how to install the SATA/ACHI drivers. There is this AMD SB850 and Gigabyte SATA2/JMicron JMB326 which confuses the hell out of me. I am not setting up RAID on my system. All I have is my SSD (as my boot drive) and my Caviar Black Harddrive.

Can someone explain this in something simplier?

Thanks,

Rick,,


----------



## Junglebizz

I am still having issues with this system. I noticed one thing in the bios that I'm not sure if I noticed before. One of the voltages, "CPU PLL Voltage Control" displays a value of "Unknown." Is that normal? Anyone else have this?

I have done all kinds of testing and the BSODS are so random. I left the computer running prime95 last night and when I came back this morning, it appears to have crashed 4 times during the night (according to the dates on the minidumps, all within 1 hour, but n the last 6 hours, it hasn't crashed.

I am now pulling out sticks of ram trying to see if that is the problem, but my gut instinct is still saying it's the CPU. I had a computer many years ago that did something very similar to this and it was a bad cpu.

Prime95 appears to be failing on at least 4/6 cores as well with a rounding error. Could this be related to ram or is the CPU looking more like the culprit?


----------



## Blitz6804

rickshaw: You want to use the SB850 SATA ports. Those are the blue ones. You have to put the AHCI driver on a floppy or thumb drive, pop your OS install CD in the drive, and hit F6 as soon as it starts to load (for XP) or hit the "load driver" in Vista/7 if it does not already see the hard drive.

Junglebizz: What bluescreen exactly are you getting? Many BSODs can be located by reading the error message. (Disable auto reboot if it is on) My CPU PLL shows a value, perhaps try to reset your CMOS.


----------



## Junglebizz

I have reset the cmos, flashed the bios, tried all suggested settings, and still i get BSODs. What can i use to view mini dump files? Can you just use something like notepad? It has been a lot of the same errors, bad_pool_header or page_fault_in_non_paged_area

I am currently going through the steps of testing 2 ram sticks at a time. I have left them set to 1066 though as when I set them to spec ratings of 1600MHz, prime95 would error almost immediately.


----------



## Obakemono

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1494126

Add me please!


----------



## Obakemono

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Scratch that up to another of the things I need to do. However, here's the link for it, although Newegg no longer sells it. Still, it can be found elsewhere.

My case isn't quite the same; I cut 2 more fan holes on the motherboard side, and for the hard drive fans I plan on modifying for filters, as I've tried fitting foam for them, but it never works out. I also put 2" locking casters around to help with moving...it's a bit heavy. I have all the parts to cut the holes for the fan filters...except the blown dremel is a problem now. That also reminds me..I need to upload a couple shots of the VRM heatsink.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ImageG...omputer%20Case


I've modded my Chenming 901SSI about the same way, but I never use filters. I just blast my case out every month with my compressor.


----------



## systemviper

i've been looking for a good AMD board and this looks like the best board on the market today.... Is that true? Anyone know of one for sale used?

thansk...


----------



## rickshaw

Hi. Thanks for that. I am wondering now. I saw that AMD just release a new version of AMD AHCI driver version 10.11. Since I am re-installing, how do I install this driver from the AMD website (http://sites.amd.com/us/game/downloa...win7-64.aspx#3 )?

Thanks again.

Rick..

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
rickshaw: You want to use the SB850 SATA ports. Those are the blue ones. You have to put the AHCI driver on a floppy or thumb drive, pop your OS install CD in the drive, and hit F6 as soon as it starts to load (for XP) or hit the "load driver" in Vista/7 if it does not already see the hard drive.

Junglebizz: What bluescreen exactly are you getting? Many BSODs can be located by reading the error message. (Disable auto reboot if it is on) My CPU PLL shows a value, perhaps try to reset your CMOS.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Junglebizz* 
bad_pool_header or page_fault_in_non_paged_area

You are right with your initial thought. That is almost always RAM or Northbridge.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rickshaw* 
Hi. Thanks for that. I am wondering now. I saw that AMD just release a new version of AMD AHCI driver version 10.11. Since I am re-installing, how do I install this driver from the AMD website?

You use the initial-install driver from Gigabyte (10.4 available there), and then install the 10.11 version afterwards from the AMD site if you are so inclined.


----------



## rickshaw

Hi. Tried doing the re-install late last night but failed. When I load the AMD AHCI driver from my flash drive during the Win 7 install where it ask you where you want to install Win7, when you select the SSD partition, it was saying that that partition is not selectable, or not valid.

Anyone got any suggestion?

Thanks,

Rick..

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
You are right with your initial thought. That is almost always RAM or Northbridge.You use the initial-install driver from Gigabyte (10.4 available there), and then install the 10.11 version afterwards from the AMD site if you are so inclined.


----------



## polynomialc

AMD AHCI driver version 10.11 doesnt work with intel ssd trim function, tested it out. has anyone tested out the speed of the standard ms driver vs amd's ahci update?


----------



## Junglebizz

I was told by OCZ that the MS AHCI driver was the better one. I wasn't able to update the firmware on the OCZ SSD I had when using the AMD AHCI driver.


----------



## saint19

When I installed my C300 the installation process recognized the SSD without problems, I hadn't to load any driver.

Do you think that I did something wrong?


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally only ever bother with a RAID driver. Otherwise, I use whatever Windows gives me.


----------



## rickshaw

Hmmm. I decide to upgrade my bios F5. Now, when I boot from the Win7 DVD, it doesn't pass just after the "Starting Windows" screen. Seems like it stopped reading from the DVD. Is this a problem in the F5 bios? I upgraded from F3 which worked fine.

Anyone.

Thanks,


----------



## Blitz6804

rickshaw: I had the exact same problem with F5. Gigabyte's official position is to use F4 (or F3) unless you have a 1070T. The F5 is the only BIOS that supports the 1070T.


----------



## rickshaw

Okay, some changes to the post F5 update. I decided to let install do its thing, right after the "Installing Windows" screen where I thought it was frozen. Guess what, it eventually went through the next stage of the install process. Its just super slow.

And after it got the the screen where it ask you where you want to install Win 7, I still couldn't select the SSD partition.

Hey Blitz6804, thanks for that information. I will downgrade to F4 and see what happens.

Thanks,

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blitz6804* 
rickshaw: I had the exact same problem with F5. Gigabyte's official position is to use F4 (or F3) unless you have a 1070T. The F5 is the only BIOS that supports the 1070T.


----------



## auriya

does Noctua NH-D14 fit on ud5 rev 2.0?
what about Thermalright Venomous X with a 120mm fan?
Thanks


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *auriya* 
does Noctua NH-D14 fit on ud5 rev 2.0?
what about Thermalright Venomous X with a 120mm fan?
Thanks

FIT???

I have the TRUE BE in my case with this board, but I don't know what you mean by FIT...


----------



## Blitz6804

He means does it clear the MOSFET cooler. To be honest, I want to say it should, but I do not have proof of that.


----------



## auriya

If you notice on our boards their is that blue thing to the left of the cpu... Im not sure if either of the cooling setups i said would fit...


----------



## christoph

oh ok

then it should cuz the Mosfet's heatsink is lower than the regular Ram sticks high, all the cpu heatsink are made to go over the regular size of RAM


----------



## auriya

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
oh ok

then it should cuz the Mosfet's heatsink is lower than the regular Ram sticks high, all the cpu heatsink are made to go over the regular size of RAM

Im not sure how tall gskil flares are but its definatly taller then regular ram.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *auriya* 
Im not sure how tall gskil flares are but its definatly taller then regular ram.

but then, you have a 2x2 GB kit, isn't it?

the cpu heatsink should clear over the Mosfet heatsink but not the RAM high, but it this case you just put them on the last 2 ram slots so them should be away form the cpu heatsink

as I do have them, "even though I can have my RAM on the first 2 slots under the heatsink"


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *auriya* 
does Noctua NH-D14 fit on ud5 rev 2.0?
what about Thermalright Venomous X with a 120mm fan?
Thanks

I have a Hyper 212+ with low profile RAM (Crucial Ballistix Tracer) and fit without problems. The NH-D14 is more tall, so, I think that you should not have problems with the setup.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Junglebizz* 
I have reset the cmos, flashed the bios, tried all suggested settings, and still i get BSODs. What can i use to view mini dump files? Can you just use something like notepad? It has been a lot of the same errors, bad_pool_header or page_fault_in_non_paged_area

I am currently going through the steps of testing 2 ram sticks at a time. I have left them set to 1066 though as when I set them to spec ratings of 1600MHz, prime95 would error almost immediately.

Look up Nirsoft Bluescreen View. It's a simple BSOD reader that gets more to the point in analyzing BSOD dumps. But, as Blitz was saying, it's sounding like RAM or NB, although I will also admit the lack of PLL voltage reading is a bit odd, too. At this point you can try ensuring all voltage is correct (not just in settings, but actual voltage readings), and probably RMA the RAM, and if that doesn't fix it, you're likely looking at a motherboard issue.


----------



## preorded

Quote:


Originally Posted by *auriya* 
does Noctua NH-D14 fit on ud5 rev 2.0?
what about Thermalright Venomous X with a 120mm fan?
Thanks

Shouldn't be a problem, I have one and it take a lot of space but go to noctuas homepage and find specification for what memories you can use.


----------



## tw33k

I'm thinking about getting one of these 2 boards. I'd like people's thoughts on which of these 2 would be better suited:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=15938

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=13931

Thanks.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tw33k*


I'm thinking about getting one of these 2 boards. I'd like people's thoughts on which of these 2 would be better suited:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=15938

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=13931

Thanks.


I'd go with the Ripjaws.


----------



## tw33k

OK...how come?


----------



## VirtualJockey

Anybody else update to the latest F6 Bios?

Seems like the CPU multiplier is now only whole numbers.








ie: 17, 18, 19 instead of 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5 etc

Had to drop my 19.5x 3.92GHz down to 19x 3.82GHz. I'll probably downgrade back to F5 for this reason alone.

Also, CoreTemp isn't working with F6 for me, just sits at 0 degrees.


----------



## saint19

The F4 still give me very good results, so, if I don't need update the BIOS for something necessary I will keep my current BIOS version.


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


The F4 still give me very good results, so, if I don't need update the BIOS for something necessary I will keep my current BIOS version.


Well, I rolled back to F5 and am again back to [email protected] and my Thermal Sensor is working again.

F6 Bios = Fail


----------



## rickshaw

Decided to drop back to F3. Computer responses during Win 7 installation with anything > F3 were super, painfully slow.

Still had problems loading AMD AHCI drivers during Win 7 install.

BTW, is there a way to tell what a device driver is using? For my case, my OCZ Vertex 2 SSD. I want to know if its using Microsoft's AHCI or AMD's. Just a step back, after I installed the OS, defaulted to Microsoft's AHCI but installed the AMD's AHCI driver after.

Let me know.

Thanks,

Rick..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickshaw*


Okay, some changes to the post F5 update. I decided to let install do its thing, right after the "Installing Windows" screen where I thought it was frozen. Guess what, it eventually went through the next stage of the install process. Its just super slow.

And after it got the the screen where it ask you where you want to install Win 7, I still couldn't select the SSD partition.

Hey Blitz6804, thanks for that information. I will downgrade to F4 and see what happens.

Thanks,


----------



## rickshaw

Decided to drop back to F3. Computer responses during Win 7 installation with anything > F3 were super, painfully slow.

Still had problems loading AMD AHCI drivers during Win 7 install.

BTW, is there a way to tell what a device driver is using? For my case, my OCZ Vertex 2 SSD. I want to know if its using Microsoft's AHCI or AMD's. Just a step back, after I installed the OS, defaulted to Microsoft's AHCI but installed the AMD's AHCI driver after.

Let me know.

Thanks,

Rick..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rickshaw*


Okay, some changes to the post F5 update. I decided to let install do its thing, right after the "Installing Windows" screen where I thought it was frozen. Guess what, it eventually went through the next stage of the install process. Its just super slow.

And after it got the the screen where it ask you where you want to install Win 7, I still couldn't select the SSD partition.

Hey Blitz6804, thanks for that information. I will downgrade to F4 and see what happens.

Thanks,


----------



## CDub07

Is the UD5 a good single GPU mobo solution? I could care less about waiting 4 bulldozer. Now im looking to maximize my performance of my 1055T and a AM3+ mobo and DDR3 is the only way. I may go SLI down the road but probably not.

Looking @ the UD5 and this ram.

CORSAIR XMS3 4GB

Also the heatsink does cover the VRMs correct?


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CDub07* 
Is the UD5 a good single GPU mobo solution?

No offense, but what modern mobo with 16x PCIe is a bad single GPU solution?

Quote:

I may go SLI down the road but probably not.
Hopefully you're leaning towards probably not. This is an ATi CF compatible motherboard, not Nvidia SLI as far as I know.

Quote:

Also the heatsink does cover the VRMs correct?
Of course.


----------



## chais82

Quote:


Originally Posted by *auriya* 
does Noctua NH-D14 fit on ud5 rev 2.0?
what about Thermalright Venomous X with a 120mm fan?
Thanks

I have the Noctua NH-D14 on my rev 2.0 ud5 board. Fits fine. Works great too! I have ripjaw memory installed. No problems at all with space. Well other than my case being just big enough to fit the cooler.


----------



## chais82

I have 4 "Western Digital WD1500HLFS VelociRaptor Hard Drive - 150GB, 10K RPM, 16MB, SATA-3G" with UD5 board. I want to install in raid. I have no experience in using raid. Im looking for fast loads and writing speeds. As I game alot. I also do alot of movie making and transfering large files. So my question is what is the best way to set them up for my needs? How does this board perform in raid? Is extra hardware required to do this? Ive read there are two ways to set up raid. Hardware or software. I dont want to do it software because I hear thats not true raid. Also "SATA 3G", Is that SATA ll or lll? And can I put them in any SATA port on the board? My bad for my ignorance in the matter. Thanks in advance.


----------



## CDub07

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey* 
No offense, but what modern mobo with 16x PCIe is a bad single GPU solution?

Hopefully you're leaning towards probably not. This is an ATi CF compatible motherboard, not Nvidia SLI as far as I know.


Very true.

Also if there is a will there is a way. It can be done.


----------



## soilentblue

nevermind found the answer


----------



## Blitz6804

chais82: RAID 0 would give you the fastest speed. However, you run a very high risk of losing your data. RAID 10 (Stripe + Mirror in the firmware, if I remember right) will be slower (the speed of two drives), but if you lose a drive, you do not lose all your data. My RAID array has broken twice already on this board, once when flashing my BIOS, once while having the computer unplugged for about ten hours. With RAID 10, I was able to rebuild it. With RAID 0, you cannot rebuild the RAID if you lose a drive, so frequent backups are necessary.

CDub07: I hear the SLI hack works without any incident on this board. So yes, SLI will work, but the question is: how long until nVidia blocks this hack again, and how long until the block is circumvented again.


----------



## saint19

AFAIK the xdevs crew is working with GTX580 SLI on AMD platforms, so, if this comes with good results we will see a new SLI patch soon.


----------



## ttaylor0024

Can someone help me with overclocking the 1090t? I turned off Cool n Quiet, increased the multiplier, and left auto voltage on, nothing. Computer didnt boot.


----------



## saint19

^

1- Turn off Cool'n'Quite, Turbo core and C1E.
2- What value are you using for the multiplier?


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024* 
Can someone help me with overclocking the 1090t? I turned off Cool n Quiet, increased the multiplier, and left auto voltage on, nothing. Computer didnt boot.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
^

1- Turn off Cool'n'Quite, Turbo core and C1E.
2- What value are you using for the multiplier?

As mentioned above, disable Cool'n'Quite, Turbo core and C1E.

I couldn't even boot with auto voltage above 3.8GHz, and my system wasn't stable until I lowered it to 3.6GHz with auto voltage.
Max warranty voltage for this CPU is 1.4v
Auto voltage with a high CPU multiplier is probably over-volting your CPU causing it to not boot.

Start with that manual voltage setting (1.4) and see how far you can go before you need to raise the voltage to get stable results for the clock you want. You should be able to get 3.9GHz (19.5x) @ 1.4v

also, you aren't using stock cooling, right?
Download both CoreTemp and prime95 to make sure your OC is stable.

Max warranty temp for this CPU is 62 degrees Celsius.


----------



## Blitz6804

When the turbo kicks in, voltage increases to 1.475 V. Thus, with turbo disabled, 1.475 V should be the absolute max you permit when overclocking.


----------



## Blueduck3285

I saw that the F6 is out for the UD5's, any word? I have been having trouble with my ram on the F4 and was hoping they fixed the issue with the F6.


----------



## chais82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


chais82: RAID 0 would give you the fastest speed. However, you run a very high risk of losing your data. RAID 10 (Stripe + Mirror in the firmware, if I remember right) will be slower (the speed of two drives), but if you lose a drive, you do not lose all your data. My RAID array has broken twice already on this board, once when flashing my BIOS, once while having the computer unplugged for about ten hours. With RAID 10, I was able to rebuild it. With RAID 0, you cannot rebuild the RAID if you lose a drive, so frequent backups are necessary.


So What your saying is, if I leave my computer unplugged for too long I will lose my RAID? I don't understand that at all? The data should still be on the drive, no? Is there a better solution? Anyone else have issues in RAID with this board?


----------



## crunchie

Hey guys. Where is the best place to plug in the esata cable? Or is it defunct on this board?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chais82*


So What your saying is, if I leave my computer unplugged for too long I will lose my RAID? I don't understand that at all? The data should still be on the drive, no? Is there a better solution? Anyone else have issues in RAID with this board?


RAID 0 or any array isn't lost if you have your rig unplugged a log time.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey*


As mentioned above, disable Cool'n'Quite, Turbo core and C1E.

I couldn't even boot with auto voltage above 3.8GHz, and my system wasn't stable until I lowered it to 3.6GHz with auto voltage. 
Max warranty voltage for this CPU is 1.4v 
Auto voltage with a high CPU multiplier is probably over-volting your CPU causing it to not boot.

Start with that manual voltage setting (1.4) and see how far you can go before you need to raise the voltage to get stable results for the clock you want. You should be able to get 3.9GHz (19.5x) @ 1.4v

also, you aren't using stock cooling, right?
Download both CoreTemp and prime95 to make sure your OC is stable.

Max warranty temp for this CPU is 62 degrees Celsius.


he is using a NH-D14.

The max frequency with the "Auto" voltage is 3.6GHz-3.7GHz, for something above that you need rise the CPU voltage in the BIOS.

In my case, I need 1.325V in the BIOS for get 3.8GHz stable, so, if you want more speed you need more voltage and low temps. I'd not go above 60ÂºC with that CPU and 1.4V depends mostly of the ambient temps and cooler.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285*


I saw that the F6 is out for the UD5's, any word? I have been having trouble with my ram on the F4 and was hoping they fixed the issue with the F6.


I've been running it last night without issue, already OC'd to my old level, without any instabilities. However, controlling the fan with EZTune 6 is wonky...I may have to reinstall it. Otherwise, so far so good. 3.75 Ghz on 1.325 volts, turbo disabled. I don't like this board's voltage control. It should have a turbo mode voltage, and regular operating voltage, because it is a pain with C&Q on (yes, I like using it to aid my power bill slightly). With turbo mode enabled, voltage is set to 1.475 volts. However, both boards I've tried end up using that as an operating voltage, and not just turbo mode voltage. There is no reason to run the chip like that, hence my disabling of turbo mode...besides, I'm already running faster with all 6 core, on less voltage. I wonder if others have had the same issue as I've had regarding turbo mode voltages. But F6 seems to work quite smoothly...and has IOMMU as well (believe this was enabled from F4 onward).


----------



## klaxian

With F4 and F5, my system had a real tough time booting with my previous stable OC settings. I kept getting an error that the system had crashed due to OC and it would reset the clock to defaults. I have had to stay on F3 because of this. Does anyone know if F6 fixes it? Thanks.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I set my bus to 250 Mhz, and am running the RAM at 1666 settings, 8-8-8-24 1T, on 1.65 volts. CPU/NB voltage is 1.17. I'd almost swear F6 is tad faster than F3, too, 'cause video encoding is going a couple FPS faster, with the same OC. So far I have zero complaints...for me the F6 feels like a better F3, and I've had zero boot issues.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
I set my bus to 250 Mhz, and am running the RAM at 1666 settings, 8-8-8-24 1T, on 1.65 volts. CPU/NB voltage is 1.17. I'd almost swear F6 is tad faster than F3, too, 'cause video encoding is going a couple FPS faster, with the same OC. So far I have zero complaints...for me the F6 feels like a better F3, and I've had zero boot issues.


I can see you have a few HDD, but do you have an array on them?

can you loose the array upgrading to F6?

or any irregular behavior we should be aware of?


----------



## VirtualJockey

Got 4GHz Prime95 stable today on air.









x20 CPU
1.45v

My socket temp is scraping the MAX temp threshold, so this is as good as I'm gonna get with my current rig.
(Titan Amanda TEC cooler modded with Noctua NF-B9 fans)


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey* 
Got 4GHz Prime95 stable today on air.









x20 CPU
1.45v

My socket temp is scraping the MAX temp threshold, so this is as good as I'm gonna get with my current rig.
(Titan Amanda TEC cooler modded with Noctua NF-B9 fans)

Hopefully you are using 58*C as a max, especially if you plan on folding. Folding, for me, tends to run hotter than Prime95 and Linx combined.


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285* 
Hopefully you are using 58*C as a max, especially if you plan on folding. Folding, for me, tends to run hotter than Prime95 and Linx combined.

No folding. Max load on Prime95 was about 54-59 after many hours, but for a few minutes it did spike up to 60-63. Under average gaming load it would never ever get this high, usually about 34 socket temp. 4GHz takes a significant .5v more than 3.9Ghz to run stable.

You don't need to smack my wrist, I know I'm pushing the envelope. 
With no BSODs or Prime errors, I see no reason to not keep this OC, unless I plan to Fold or Prime 24/7.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *christoph* 
I can see you have a few HDD, but do you have an array on them?

can you loose the array upgrading to F6?

or any irregular behavior we should be aware of?


No sir, I am running JBOD...I haven't the taste for RAID. Besides, my drives are backed up to my file server. So, I can't say anything for killing arrays, although it has not played with any hard drive data so far. It's been encoding video all day long, and showing no signs of failure or issue (aside from the occasional Handbrake mistake, which is apparently normal).

Sorry I can't help more.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey* 
No folding. Max load on Prime95 was about 54-59 after many hours, but for a few minutes it did spike up to 60-63. Under average gaming load it would never ever get this high. 4GHz takes a significant .5v more than 3.9Ghz to run stable.

You don't need to smack my wrist, I know I'm pushing the envelope. 

Not smacking any wrists, just helping out. Want to keep as many 10xxT's alive as possible.


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285* 
Not smacking any wrists, just helping out. Want to keep as many 10xxT's alive as possible.

I edited my post, mentioning gaming temps (about 34/35 degrees socket temp). Since I won't be priming or folding, do you feel my OC is safe since it has no Prime errors or BSODs? The only flag is my temps after priming for a day, but still lingering in the AMD max temp area. Max core temp was 56 at the highest (CoreTemp) and 61-63 socket (HWmonitor TMPIN1). I do appreciate your advice and opinions.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
No sir, I am running JBOD...I haven't the taste for RAID. Besides, my drives are backed up to my file server. So, I can't say anything for killing arrays, although it has not played with any hard drive data so far. It's been encoding video all day long, and showing no signs of failure or issue (aside from the occasional Handbrake mistake, which is apparently normal).

Sorry I can't help more.


hmm

I guess someone has to test it out with an array in game

let me guys know what happen with that....


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
RAID 0 or any array isn't lost if you have your rig unplugged a log time.

My RAID 10 was. I left the computer unplugged a few hours, and when I plugged it back on, the RAID's health was "Critical." Drive 2-1 was listed as a "Single Disk" rather than a part of the RAID.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey* 
I edited my post, mentioning gaming temps (about 34/35 degrees socket temp). Since I won't be priming or folding, do you feel my OC is safe since it has no Prime errors or BSODs? The only flag is my temps after priming for a day, but still lingering in the AMD max temp area. Max core temp was 56 at the highest (CoreTemp) and 61-63 socket (HWmonitor TMPIN1). I do appreciate your advice and opinions.

Depending on your ambients, your temps could be fine. I actually use my system to keep my place about 65*F, I like it chilly so my temps while folding don't break 55*C even with an ambient of 70*F. I try not to use Core temp, HWmonitor is better IMO. If gaming and such, and you don't break much over 58*C, you should be good. My rule is I try not to break 55*C, thats my buffer zone. Its about what your comfortable with, some people run their systems close to 60*C as long as they don't go higher they don't mind. Find your comfort zone.


----------



## Junglebizz

Well I've been dealing with GIGABYTE over my memory related issues and in the end, they told me that 1.35v spec memory is incompatible with this board, even though they have it on their memory support list.

Here is the email they sent me in response

Quote:



Dear customer,
All memory model on the list are 1.5v type, if memory was on the list but voltage spec was 1.35v type that cannot be supported,
When you look at the top the bold topic will see :
Memory modules listed below are for reference only. Due to massive memory models on the market, we can only verify some of them, and when you look at the mother board manual page 10 on memory information will see 4x 1.5v DDR3 up to 16G detail info.
Please contact memory vendor exchange memory to 1.5v type.

Best regards,

Gigabyte technical support team.










So now I'm stuck with 8GB of this ram that I bought because it was on their support list as being supported when in fact it's not.


----------



## Blitz6804

I personally use my G.Skill ECO (1.350 V spec) at 1.410 V without any incident. The stock to 1.550 V, so...

As to temperatures, my core reaches 62Âº C while doing SnM's FPU or IBT. Under typical usage, I only get up to about 47Âº C or so.


----------



## Junglebizz

All the testing I have done has lead me to the motherboard being the issue, but if the real issue is crappy compatibility with the ram, then I suppose I can try starting there. The other issue is, if I am using "incompatible" memory, they won't take it back as an RMA as they will just keep blaming the ram I am using as the problem.


----------



## Blitz6804

Easiest way to test Junglebizz: know anyone nearby who uses DDR3? Try swapping DIMMs around to see if you can get something working.


----------



## Junglebizz

edit: I found someone who has 12GB of DDR3, i assume 6x2GB config as I think he runs an i7. I guess I will truck this rig over to his place and see if we can test it out.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, if you run 3x2 GB (I seem to recall you have 4x2 GB) you can test the RAM in batches that way. Alternatively, try 2x2 or 4x2 of his RAM in your board. If his RAM doesn't work in yours, and yours works in his, it is the motherboard or CPU. If your RAM doesn't work in his, and his works in yours, it is the RAM.


----------



## Junglebizz

I'm completely convinced it is not the CPU as I am running the 1090T in my GA-MA790X-UD4P board and haven't had a single issue with it yet. Of course I am going to have to put the 1090T back in the other system so that I can take it and test it as it seems like these issues only really pop up when using the 1090T and not my x3 720.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, the 1090T works with DDR2 on a DDR2 board? Does the x3 720 work on the DDR3 board? If the x3 720 works with DDR3, and the 1090T does not, the problem is the IMC on the 1090T. If the x3 720 does not work with the DDR3, it is the RAM or motherboard.


----------



## Junglebizz

Hopefully in the next couple days I am going to meet up with my friend so we can swap the DDR3. If the problem persists then yes, it must be the CPU. Doesn't it seem odd that the IMC would only act up with DDR3 though and not act up all the time?


----------



## saint19

If the problem persist with another RAM, can also be the mobo.


----------



## Junglebizz

hmmm, well the worst issues happened when i had the 1090T installed, so I figure I should put it back, swap the ram and see how it goes first. It is tempting to test the computer with the 720 installed but I'm not sure I will have all day to borrow my friends RAM.

I did notice that even with the 720 installed that I couldn't really get the ram to be completely stable. Running prime95 blend test it would still fail eventually. The only tests that it could pass in that system were the small FFT tests.


----------



## Blitz6804

Small FFT stresses the Lx Caches only, no memory at all. Large FFT stresses the Lx Caches and some memory. The "Blend" stresses predominately memory. If the RAM is no good, or the IMC is wonky, anything past Small FFTs will fail. If you run DIMMs in the white slots only, and it is fine, the blue slots only, and it is fine, but white and blue together fails, that rules out the motherboard. If any two of the four DIMMs work in any combination on the board, that rules out the RAM itself. If problems only exist when all four slots are populated, that tends toward the CPU's IMC. It might run DDR2 without problems but fail with DDR3. That both the x3 720 and the 1090T fail with blend tends to rule out the IMCs, as it is improbable that both are bad.


----------



## Junglebizz

Thanks for the responses Blitz. Looks like I have a few more things to try! Just wish I wasn't in the middle of moving while trying to solve these issues.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I understand a bit about the whole wrestling with Gigabyte issue, Junglebizz...I had to do it, too, and they kept blaming my RAM. It turned out to be part of the issue, but not all of it. The first UD5 I had was screwy, and had severe HDD read issues. The second board I got has been fine, and that allowed me to actually see that I had a couple iffy sticks of RAM that would just enough to push the first board to useless (2nd board ran, but not well).

Are you getting any BSOD? If you're getting PFN-List- Corrupt, and Driver IRQL, it's likely RAM, since you have the other CPU and it's not stable, either. The Corsair I RMA'd actually passed Memtest every single time, yet would refuse to boot into Windows 60% of the time. I let Corsair know this, and they didn't even argue with me, actually told me it was bad on the spot (I asked for a second opinion, and they gave a basic explanation). I ended up with a newer version of the RAM, and this 2nd board has been probably the most stable board I've ever had....no joke (it's a tie between the UD5 and the Asus board in my Tricorder build, as it's been great out of the box).

Try playing with the voltages some. Also, Gigabyte's RAM support is always unofficial. They said the same crap to me when I had exact modules; which they're full of crap out, because the Corsair 2GB 1600 sticks they quote as supporting are 1.65 volts, and never came 1.5...so their tech support is stupid (they also told me my board had F1 bios installed when I sent it in, when it had F3). The only time I got very good service is when I called, got past customer service, and went straight to the tech guys. They didn't argue with me one bit, and were the ones to pick up return shipping.

I'm no fan of Gigabyte, but there are ways to expedite the process with them.


----------



## christoph

hmmmm

I didn't read all the last pages but...

I been following all this troubleshooting and not working MOBO-CPU-RAM, and it seems clearly that the last few years every company/brand, mostly ASUS and now Gigabyte are paying full attention to Intel based MOBOs

I was in a hole once with this MOBO being my first time with Gigabyte, and the thing was that the troubleshooting beeps codes description (or whatever you call this) is ****ing useless cuz' I was told that any beep within 1 and 11 beeps means RAM problem. (so I was like ***)

anyway, seems that the only reliable help we can get for AMD based setups is from the same AMD users and yet a lot of people refuses to answer noob questions

So, all I'd read was the problem with the RAM, so you may know now that phenoms II series 7**/9** have a weaker IMC than the phenom 10**T, so you need to add forcefully Voltage to the CPU-NB in order to keep the default RAM speed stable, I know that you know this by now so don't mind me

perhaps we would get now little more help from the guys over here

I know this community is really good and you guys are really good and have a lot of info, so please type in some ideas for the newbies over here.

I've forget, any news related to F6 bios and HDDs arrays??


----------



## Tchernobyl

Been getting a BSOD for some weeks now, not really sure what it is...

http://www.funkyhorror.net/tchernobyl/IMG_0348.JPG

I've been told it's drivers related, and i was reading something about hardware changes, which is what I did. I went from an older model (MA-790FX-UD5P) to the 890 UD5, simply swapping the mobo and ram and not reinstalling windows.

Are either of those the cause, or does it lie elsewhere, adn ist here a solution?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


Been getting a BSOD for some weeks now, not really sure what it is...

http://www.funkyhorror.net/tchernobyl/IMG_0348.JPG

I've been told it's drivers related, and i was reading something about hardware changes, which is what I did. I went from an older model (MA-790FX-UD5P) to the 890 UD5, simply swapping the mobo and ram and not reinstalling windows.

Are either of those the cause, or does it lie elsewhere, adn ist here a solution?


Whenever I swap mobos, I always re-install Windows. Swapping out RAM is a non-issue as long as you're sure that the speeds and timings are stable. Have you tried repairing Windows at least?


----------



## Tchernobyl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *decimate*


Whenever I swap mobos, I always re-install Windows. Swapping out RAM is a non-issue as long as you're sure that the speeds and timings are stable. Have you tried repairing Windows at least?


I believe I have, but I forget where that's at... refresh my memory?


----------



## decimator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


I believe I have, but I forget where that's at... refresh my memory?










You can do it off the Windows disc.


----------



## christoph

nah

try with a clean installation of windows


----------



## conor1148

hey folks, new guy here.

I'm about to put my rig in my sig, but for right now, i got: the ud5 mobo, 1090t, and a gtx470.

My question is, has anyone done a SLI crack with the ud5 board? i've only ever seen the ud7.

thanks!


----------



## saint19

UD5 and UD7 are pretty similar. AFAIK the devs team is working on the patch for GTX 580 SLI.

You can try, I think that should work without problems if you do it in the proper way.


----------



## conor1148

what do you mean by the proper way?

just like the instructions said?

is there anything else i'm missing? im kinda nervous about the procedure..


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *conor1148*


what do you mean by the proper way?

just like the instructions said?

is there anything else i'm missing? im kinda nervous about the procedure..


Yeah, I mean just like the instructions said.


----------



## conor1148

i can do that. any pitfalls i need to watch out for?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *conor1148*


i can do that. any pitfalls i need to watch out for?


Just be sure that you download the correct file for do the hack, the rest of the process is follow the instructions.


----------



## conor1148

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Just be sure that you download the correct file for do the hack, the rest of the process is follow the instructions.


hate to be a burden, but i need the one for the 0.9 patch or later, right?


----------



## saint19

Yeah, download and use the 0.9 patch, is the latest available version.


----------



## conor1148

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Yeah, download and use the 0.9 patch, is the latest available version.


ok, just being 100% sure.

Is there any way that i can make sure it works without buying the second card?

sorry to be so needy as far as questions go, i can take them elsewhere if i need to.

thanks again!


----------



## saint19

Follow the steps, at the end you need reboot the rig. During boot there will be "extra OS" selection, marked "SLI enabled". This is one to use with SLI patch active.

If you can see that option, SLI has been enable in you mobo.


----------



## conor1148

So, it'll pop up where i chose between linux and windows 7?


----------



## saint19

WAIT. That patch only work for Windows and yeah you will see and option with SLI on it (if you are using Windows of course)


----------



## conor1148

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


WAIT. That patch only work for Windows and yeah you will see and option with SLI on it (if you are using Windows of course)


i figured, i seldom use linux much anyways. god knows why i put it on my gaming rig..

thanks for all your help! dunno what it's worth here, but +rep to you, good sir!


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *conor1148*


i figured, i seldom use linux much anyways. god knows why i put it on my gaming rig..

thanks for all your help! dunno what it's worth here, but +rep to you, good sir!


Your welcome and thanx for rep.


----------



## Tchernobyl

one vote for repair, one for reinstall, any more suggestions?


----------



## Blueduck3285

I vote Cookies and Punch!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl*


one vote for repair, one for reinstall, any more suggestions?










I was reading over the posts. Given the symptoms, my vote is for reinstallation...I've seen repairs go awry and either help nothing, or make the situation worse. A full reinstall will take care of that.


----------



## christoph

another vote for reinstall...

you guys have try F6 yet?? any improvements? somehow?

my HDD array seems slow and I was hoping for a bios upgrade that can fix this, since F5...


----------



## ToxicAdam

Is 1.392v enough for 3.8GHz on a 1090t?


----------



## crunchie

If it is stable, then yes, it's enough







.


----------



## conor1148

Conor:1
Nvidia/SLI: 0

i win!

edit- yes i realize i ran everything completely stock on my CPU, wanted to eliminate all the possibilities it could go wrong. haha!


----------



## christoph

ok

F6 is good to go in any situation, ans it feels way faster than before, running an raid 0


----------



## saint19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Is 1.392v enough for 3.8GHz on a 1090t?

I'm running 3.8GHz with 1.325V on BIOS, 1.392V is much for 3.8GHz.


----------



## Dr4go

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey* 
Anybody else update to the latest F6 Bios?

Seems like the CPU multiplier is now only whole numbers.








ie: 17, 18, 19 instead of 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5 etc

Had to drop my 19.5x 3.92GHz down to 19x 3.82GHz. I'll probably downgrade back to F5 for this reason alone.

Also, CoreTemp isn't working with F6 for me, just sits at 0 degrees.

I also just saw this stupid thing... Should have read here before flashing the BIOS. Back to F5, because of this for me as well...


----------



## conor1148

I'm on F3, should i move up to F5?

I've heard that if you're not really having problems, not to do it. but the last time i upgraded was really not hard at all.. i don't THINK im having any problems atleast.

thoughts?


----------



## Blitz6804

When I went F5, it snackered my RAID array. Attempting to reinstall windows on F5 was impossible. So I went back to F3, where I remain to this day. Gigabyte says to not use F5 unless you have a 1070T.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *conor1148*


I'm on F3, should i move up to F5?

I've heard that if you're not really having problems, not to do it. but the last time i upgraded was really not hard at all.. i don't THINK im having any problems atleast.

thoughts?


F5 won't work along with HDD arrays, yo will loose them

but if you do not have any array, then you'll be ok as there's no need to upgrade to F5 as well


----------



## klaxian

I couldn't get the system to boot on F4 or F5 because it kept displaying an error about a crash due to overclocking and it would reset my clock speeds. I am 100% stable with F3 on the same settings. Does anyone know if F6 fixes this problem?


----------



## Blitz6804

christoph: With RAID 10 though, it is possible to rebuild the RAID using the included software. Maybe. RAID 0 you would be out of luck.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


christoph: With RAID 10 though, it is possible to rebuild the RAID using the included software. Maybe. RAID 0 you would be out of luck.


that's true but

some people use raid 0 other raid 10, I can say this arrays are the most common ones

as for me, I use RAID 0, so far I haven't have any problem running this set up for mmmm 2 years now...

and I mean the array crashing, or loosing the data on them, or anything you can think

I know it will happen anytime soon, probably not but for this I keep the most important data in a external HDD

hopefully, I'll will move on onto RAID 0 sata III, losing a lot of space but gaining you know what...


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Is 1.392v enough for 3.8GHz on a 1090t?

It's enough for 3.9GHz.
After 3.9, for some reason it takes a noticeably larger jump in voltage to get 4GHZ and higher stable. Well, at least in mine and many other people's situations at stock FSB and stock voltages for everything other than CPU.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


Originally Posted by *saint19* 
I'm running 3.8GHz with 1.325V on BIOS, 1.392V is much for 3.8GHz.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey* 
It's enough for 3.9GHz.
After 3.9, for some reason it takes a noticeably larger jump in voltage to get 4GHZ and higher stable. Well, at least in mine and many other people's situations at stock FSB and stock voltages for everything other than CPU.

Are you guys saying I can pretty much run 3.8ghz on stock voltage?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam* 
Are you guys saying I can pretty much run 3.8ghz on stock voltage?

All depends on the draw. Mine will do 3.8Ghz with 1.3vcore.


----------



## Blitz6804

Completely luck of the draw Toxic. If I remember right, mine will do 3.6 on stock. Anything higher needs a slight nudge.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


All depends on the draw. Mine will do 3.8Ghz with 1.3vcore.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Completely luck of the draw Toxic. If I remember right, mine will do 3.6 on stock. Anything higher needs a slight nudge.


I just lowered it to 1.376v

going by what blitz stated 3.7ghz would need a bump to 1.35v

3.8ghz = 1.376v(1.38v in bios)

3.9ghz = 1.39v(1.40v in bios)

4.0ghz = 1.45v

I know all this depends on the CPU(not all cpus are the same) but this seems to be a rough estimate.

These are all multiplier only settings. NB and FSB are on defaults.


----------



## Blitz6804

I need 1.450 (in the BIOS) to do 4.0 GHz yes. I think it was 1.375 V in the BIOS to do 3.8. Your scale looks to match me exactly.


----------



## calebkan

hi guys..

i want to asking something about ud7 board..

whats the watercooling performance on ud7 board..?some guys saying ud7 board doesnt have good waterblock for watercooling..

what can we say about ud7 board watercooling performance?someone can send me results?ty


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


I couldn't get the system to boot on F4 or F5 because it kept displaying an error about a crash due to overclocking and it would reset my clock speeds. I am 100% stable with F3 on the same settings. Does anyone know if F6 fixes this problem?


I've had the same experience, as described here. I contemplate sending the board back to the factory again everytime this happens. Feels like the most unstable thing about it is the bios itself.

edit: I remember looking at ZenOS a while back, it looks much nicer now. Might have to give it a go.


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


I just lowered it to 1.376v

going by what blitz stated 3.7ghz would need a bump to 1.35v

3.8ghz = 1.376v(1.38v in bios)

3.9ghz = 1.39v(1.40v in bios)

4.0ghz = 1.45v

I know all this depends on the CPU(not all cpus are the same) but this seems to be a rough estimate.

These are all multiplier only settings. NB and FSB are on defaults.


Those were my results to the "T". 
Spot on estimate!


----------



## spoongy

Hi guys -
I'm helping a friend with a new build and he has this board and a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus hs/fan. The heat sink instructions show a back plate to be secured behind the cpu on the motherboard, and a retention plate screwed into in from the front (and the heat sink/fan then mounted onto that).

Since the motherboard already has a back plate and a blue plastic construction on the front for the stock heat sink/fan, I was wondering if it's possible to secure the 212 Plus without replacing that apparatus.

If anyone has installed this heat sink/fan, I'd appreciate hearing from you as to how you did it.

Also, some g.skill ripjaws (F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM) are going in, too. Anyone have any clearance problems? It looks like it'll be tight, and I can always place the heatsink with the fan on the other side if necessary, but it would be good to know before I get started.

Thanks guys.


----------



## VirtualJockey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spoongy* 
Hi guys -
I'm helping a friend with a new build and he has this board and a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus hs/fan. The heat sink instructions show a back plate to be secured behind the cpu on the motherboard, and a retention plate screwed into in from the front (and the heat sink/fan then mounted onto that).

Since the motherboard already has a back plate and a blue plastic construction on the front for the stock heat sink/fan, I was wondering if it's possible to secure the 212 Plus without replacing that apparatus.

If anyone has installed this heat sink/fan, I'd appreciate hearing from you as to how you did it.

Also, some g.skill ripjaws (F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM) are going in, too. Anyone have any clearance problems? It looks like it'll be tight, and I can always place the heatsink with the fan on the other side if necessary, but it would be good to know before I get started.

Thanks guys.

Probably in your best interest to remove the stock stuff. Heck, will it even fit if you don't remove it??


----------



## conor1148

i own the UD5 with that same cooler, you must remove all stock hardware and put on their plates.

also, i'd highly suggest adding a second fan so you can have an intake and exhaust on it. I added two high quality fans and dropped a few degrees. well worth it.

you may have an absolute tiny bit of clearance issues, but thankfully due to the design of the cooler the fan can be pushed up a little and you'll be fine.

If you have anymore questions about the combo don't hesitate to ask. good choice on the cooler!


----------



## spoongy

Thanks conor1148 (and VirtualJockey, too) - it looked like it would be simpler if I could somehow clamp it to the plastic housing that was already there. Oh well, not to be. So I just did it, and it was actually pretty easy. Now for the rest.

Thanks guys.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm thinking of moving from my M4N98TD EVO (980a) to the UD5. I have a bunch of questions:

What's the CPU voltage range? And at what increments can it be adjusted?
How low can DRAM voltage be set?
What amount of VDroop have you noticed? It's MASSIVE on the board I'm using.
What's the PCIE lane config? 16x 8x 16x 8x 4x? Something like that?
The SATA config is 2 SATAII and 6 SATAIII connections right?
How many CPU phases does this board feature?
Is it compatible with G.Skill ECO DDR3-1600 CL7 memory? AKA does it recognize the XMP profile?

That's all I can think of for now... I'm in need of more SATA ports, I'd like to have USB3, I'd like to have more PCIE lanes, and I'm looking to squeeze more performance out of my SSDs... Those are a few of the reasons I'm looking to migrate. I can easily hit 4Ghz on my current board (raising multiplier only) and it picks up my memory w/o issue @ 1600mhz 7-8-7-24.

I can pick one up for $175 shipped new


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


I'm thinking of moving from my M4N98TD EVO (980a) to the UD5. I have a bunch of questions:

What's the CPU voltage range? And at what increments can it be adjusted?
How low can DRAM voltage be set?
What amount of VDroop have you noticed? It's MASSIVE on the board I'm using.
What's the PCIE lane config? 16x 8x 16x 8x 4x? Something like that?
The SATA config is 2 SATAII and 6 SATAIII connections right?
How many CPU phases does this board feature?
Is it compatible with G.Skill ECO DDR3-1600 CL7 memory? AKA does it recognize the XMP profile?

That's all I can think of for now... I'm in need of more SATA ports, I'd like to have USB3, I'd like to have more PCIE lanes, and I'm looking to squeeze more performance out of my SSDs... Those are a few of the reasons I'm looking to migrate. I can easily hit 4Ghz on my current board (raising multiplier only) and it picks up my memory w/o issue @ 1600mhz 7-8-7-24.

I can pick one up for $175 shipped new










Never looked at how low the ram voltage goes, I'll get back to this when I reboot. But most of your other questions can be answered from the first post int the owners manual and Gigabyte's page for the board.

I think I read A LOT of people having that ram in the thread and they liked it. With my own googling magic, I found a little something in another thread: http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/...5-help-me.html

With 1.4v set in bios I get 1.376 in CPU-Z

edit: Dram can be set from 1.21V all the way to 2.41V <--Flashing in dark red letters none the less.
CPU voltage range is -.600v to +.600v (1.35v is in the middle if you didn't know)


----------



## crunchie

I think the DRAM voltage goes down to 1.35v or thereabouts. Was plenty low enough for the ECO's I had.
My vdroop was very minimal. @ 1.35 in BIOS became 1.344 in Windows.


----------



## orion2001

Hi all







Im a late 30-something yr old newb and I think I just made a boo-boo without researching RAM properly









I have recently bought a GA-890FXA-UD5 board with a 955 BE CPU and TRUE 120 air cooler. I figured I'd do some 'forward thinking' and setup the system ready for upgrades later (like an X6 core down the track when they become a bit more affordable). I also thought I'd 'think ahead' again by purchasing some latest spec RAM now, rather than later. Soooo... I recently bought the following:

G.SKILL RIPJAW (BLACK)
F3-16000CL9D-4GBRH
DDR3 Memory 
2000Mhz (PC3-16000) 
CAS Latency 9-9-9 
2x 2GB (= 4GB Capacity) 
Integrated aluminum heatsink 
1.65 Volts 
Unbuffered / non ECC 
240-pin DIMM 
Lifetime Warranty

At the moment I am currently waiting for the RAM to be delivered. Did I just make a big mistake or can I still live with the RAM but at lower speeds?

thanks


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fir3Chi3f*


I've had the same experience, as described here. I contemplate sending the board back to the factory again everytime this happens. Feels like the most unstable thing about it is the bios itself.

edit: I remember looking at ZenOS a while back, it looks much nicer now. Might have to give it a go.


I had stability issues with F4, never tried F5. I ran F3 until I saw F6 out, and tried it out. So far it's been as stable as F3, with the same OC as F3, but voltage regulation for C&Q was better, acting like it had an extra step instead of bottoming out and giving full power, so the CPU can hit its idle speed (1 Ghz), 2 Ghz, and up to 3.75 (in my case).

On another post someone made about voltage sag: I have little sag on my board; it's set for 1.325 in BIOS, I get a low of 1.323, and high of 1.328 in Windows according to CPUZ.


----------



## klaxian

I just tried the F6 BIOS on my UD5. Unfortunately, it seems to have the same issue that F4 and F5 have. On the first screen when I attempt to boot, I get an error from the BIOS that overclocking has caused a boot failure and my settings have been reset. I am using the same settings that have been 100% stable for months with F3 - even when folding 24/7. I tried changing settings and adding even more voltage, but nothing would help. Is there any way to disable this check and just force the system to boot? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.


----------



## unreal104

Hi guys I'm new here, just bought ud5 mb with PII x6 1055t a few days ago. Updated to F3 Bios since F6 BIOS is a total failure. Even vcore at 1.5 cant do 3.7 GHZ.

Anyway, I want a stable overclocking at 3.8GHZ.

RAM is TeamElite 1333Mhz 2x2GB (9-9-9-24)

Anyone can tell me stable settings for 3.8GHZ currently I'm doing it at 1.35vcore (296x12.5).
Another thing is I srsly dont have time for running Prime95 long like 2 3 hrs+, So is there any other tools which could test the system stability within 1 2 hrs.

I know OCCT, Linx (dont know what settings to run on) and IBT.

Which one is the best for testing for stability in short time?

Thanks in advanced!! And I welcome myself to be here


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unreal104*


Hi guys I'm new here, just bought ud5 mb with PII x6 1055t a few days ago. Updated to F3 Bios since F6 BIOS is a total failure. Even vcore at 1.5 cant do 3.7 GHZ.

Anyway, I want a stable overclocking at 3.8GHZ.

RAM is TeamElite 1333Mhz 2x2GB (9-9-9-24)

Anyone can tell me stable settings for 3.8GHZ currently I'm doing it at 1.35vcore (296x12.5).
Another thing is I srsly dont have time for running Prime95 long like 2 3 hrs+, So is there any other tools which could test the system stability within 1 2 hrs.

I know OCCT, Linx (dont know what settings to run on) and IBT.

Which one is the best for testing for stability in short time?

Thanks in advanced!! And I welcome myself to be here










Overclock is test-faild, so, you need keep that in mind.

You need slow down the RAM frequency (DRAM ratio in BIOS) because you are overclocking with the FBS that rise the CPU, RAM speed and NB speed, so, do that and start to test.

You can do it with LinX for 75 minutes or custom time, for settings only change the total amount of RAM to use to "All".


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *klaxian*


I just tried the F6 BIOS on my UD5. Unfortunately, it seems to have the same issue that F4 and F5 have. On the first screen when I attempt to boot, I get an error from the BIOS that overclocking has caused a boot failure and my settings have been reset. I am using the same settings that have been 100% stable for months with F3 - even when folding 24/7. I tried changing settings and adding even more voltage, but nothing would help. Is there any way to disable this check and just force the system to boot? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.


I had that problem when manually setting the bus, even at 200 Mhz, in all other revisions, and suddenly it stopped in F3, and stayed that way. The trend continues with F6, and I can set the bus manually without issue. YMMV I guess.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unreal104*


Hi guys I'm new here, just bought ud5 mb with PII x6 1055t a few days ago. Updated to F3 Bios since F6 BIOS is a total failure. Even vcore at 1.5 cant do 3.7 GHZ.

Anyway, I want a stable overclocking at 3.8GHZ.

RAM is TeamElite 1333Mhz 2x2GB (9-9-9-24)

Anyone can tell me stable settings for 3.8GHZ currently I'm doing it at 1.35vcore (296x12.5).
Another thing is I srsly dont have time for running Prime95 long like 2 3 hrs+, So is there any other tools which could test the system stability within 1 2 hrs.

I know OCCT, Linx (dont know what settings to run on) and IBT.

Which one is the best for testing for stability in short time?

Thanks in advanced!! And I welcome myself to be here











Your system bus is high. Try using a 250 Mhz bus, and the stock multiplier (14x). That should yield 3.5 Ghz. 271 will give around 3.8. And make sure your RAM is not being overclocked, keep the timings loose, with good voltage, and test.

If you don't have time for 24+ hour tests (I will not do less, as I often find a fluke around 16-18 hours), then just use an auto overclock utility. If you don't want to do that, and insist on overclocking without testing, then there's no reason to complain about poor stability. 1-2 hours is never going to cut it, because the CPU cannot crunch enough numbers to reveal a flaw at that point. True, in that time period you'll have about an 80-85% reliability rate most times, but that's using discretion. I highly doubt you'll get very high with a quick OC. The entire reason for OC tools existing is to help people in your situation. I advise you to make use of them. Try AMD Overdrive.


----------



## unreal104

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


I had that problem when manually setting the bus, even at 200 Mhz, in all other revisions, and suddenly it stopped in F3, and stayed that way. The trend continues with F6, and I can set the bus manually without issue. YMMV I guess.

Your system bus is high. Try using a 250 Mhz bus, and the stock multiplier (14x). That should yield 3.5 Ghz. 271 will give around 3.8. And make sure your RAM is not being overclocked, keep the timings loose, with good voltage, and test.

If you don't have time for 24+ hour tests (I will not do less, as I often find a fluke around 16-18 hours), then just use an auto overclock utility. If you don't want to do that, and insist on overclocking without testing, then there's no reason to complain about poor stability. 1-2 hours is never going to cut it, because the CPU cannot crunch enough numbers to reveal a flaw at that point. True, in that time period you'll have about an 80-85% reliability rate most times, but that's using discretion. I highly doubt you'll get very high with a quick OC. The entire reason for OC tools existing is to help people in your situation. I advise you to make use of them. Try AMD Overdrive.


Thanks for help! So if I want to test for max stability how long should i run p95 ? another thing is I lower the DRAM clock to 1578Mhz (245.8mhz increased) at 1.55 voltage.
And is there any tools for checking memory stability ?

Btw if I overclock to 3.5ghz(250x14) with stock voltage and DRAM at stock speed. Do i still need to run any test ? because many people saying that settings are stable at stock voltage

P.S I 296x12.5 is 3.7ghz. Typing error in my 1st post which stated 3.8ghz


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *orion2001*


Hi all







Im a late 30-something yr old newb and I think I just made a boo-boo without researching RAM properly









I have recently bought a GA-890FXA-UD5 board with a 955 BE CPU and TRUE 120 air cooler. I figured I'd do some 'forward thinking' and setup the system ready for upgrades later (like an X6 core down the track when they become a bit more affordable). I also thought I'd 'think ahead' again by purchasing some latest spec RAM now, rather than later. Soooo... I recently bought the following:

G.SKILL RIPJAW (BLACK)
F3-16000CL9D-4GBRH
DDR3 Memory 
2000Mhz (PC3-16000) 
CAS Latency 9-9-9 
2x 2GB (= 4GB Capacity) 
Integrated aluminum heatsink 
1.65 Volts 
Unbuffered / non ECC 
240-pin DIMM 
Lifetime Warranty

At the moment I am currently waiting for the RAM to be delivered. Did I just make a big mistake or can I still live with the RAM but at lower speeds?

thanks










I really don't get it, those are different RAMs

but in any way, you could make them work at a lower speed but with tighter timings


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unreal104*


Thanks for help! So if I want to test for max stability how long should i run p95 ? another thing is I lower the DRAM clock to 1578Mhz (245.8mhz increased) at 1.55 voltage.
And is there any tools for checking memory stability ?

Btw if I overclock to 3.5ghz(250x14) with stock voltage and DRAM at stock speed. Do i still need to run any test ? because many people saying that settings are stable at stock voltage

P.S I 296x12.5 is 3.7ghz. Typing error in my 1st post which stated 3.8ghz



and whats the rated voltage for your RAM?


----------



## unreal104

rate voltage is 1.35v~1.5VÂ±0.075V


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *unreal104* 
rate voltage is 1.35v~1.5VÂ±0.075V

Keep in mind you have 1333 RAM running near 1600...even with the (slight) voltage goose up to 1.5V you're not going to be anything even close to stable. Also, I've not heard of your RAM brand. Do you know what IC chips are being used in their creation? The Corsair I run is 1.65v, and the Gskill in the spare system is 1.5. They are DDR1600 and 1333 respectively. You may have something similar to ECO sticks, and I don't know how well those OC. Your timings at 9 should be loose enough. Lower the RAM speed, too, back to 1333 Mhz, or as close as you can get it (a little over shouldn't be a problem).

Some RAM also won't take OC...my Gskill is just that. I can't get it to tighten timings or go past stock speeds, regardless of voltage...but it runs very well at stock, so I leave it there.

Also, what temps are you seeing on the CPU, and what heatsink for cooling it?


----------



## unreal104

Quote:


Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow* 
Keep in mind you have 1333 RAM running near 1600...even with the (slight) voltage goose up to 1.5V you're not going to be anything even close to stable. Also, I've not heard of your RAM brand. Do you know what IC chips are being used in their creation? The Corsair I run is 1.65v, and the Gskill in the spare system is 1.5. They are DDR1600 and 1333 respectively. You may have something similar to ECO sticks, and I don't know how well those OC. Your timings at 9 should be loose enough. Lower the RAM speed, too, back to 1333 Mhz, or as close as you can get it (a little over shouldn't be a problem).

Some RAM also won't take OC...my Gskill is just that. I can't get it to tighten timings or go past stock speeds, regardless of voltage...but it runs very well at stock, so I leave it there.

Also, what temps are you seeing on the CPU, and what heatsink for cooling it?

ok so i should be getting back to stock speed.
I got 60C max (ambient 27c) on 2 hrs of p95 test, usually around 58c with hyper 212 plus cooler. I'm using the thermal paste that comes with the cooler, should i change to ac mx 4 or chill factor ? Will it effect cooling performance like 4-5c difference ?


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:


Originally Posted by *klaxian* 
I just tried the F6 BIOS on my UD5. Unfortunately, it seems to have the same issue that F4 and F5 have. On the first screen when I attempt to boot, I get an error from the BIOS that overclocking has caused a boot failure and my settings have been reset. I am using the same settings that have been 100% stable for months with F3 - even when folding 24/7. I tried changing settings and adding even more voltage, but nothing would help. Is there any way to disable this check and just force the system to boot? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

The post previous to this is a quote of me replying to your first post on the subject. Yes, I have the same problem, but I haven't been running 24hr tests on my rig. But I also would think that it would have to be less stable than 4hrs in prime95 to cause such an error.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orion2001* 
Hi all Im a late 30-something yr old newb and I think I just made a boo-boo without researching RAM properly

Sucks to be 30









Just kiddin, I don't see why the ram wouldn't work, I run corsair's "made for intel" ram and it seems to be doing fine. And since you didn't open the package you can just send it back if you really wanted to be sure.

note: I'm still fiddling with my memory. As of right now they will not run at their rated spec.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *unreal104* 
ok so i should be getting back to stock speed.
I got 60C max (ambient 27c) on 2 hrs of p95 test, usually around 58c with hyper 212 plus cooler. I'm using the thermal paste that comes with the cooler, should i change to ac mx 4 or chill factor ? Will it effect cooling performance like 4-5c difference ?

MX 4 is way better than chiil factor, and yes it should make a difference


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unreal104*


ok so i should be getting back to stock speed. 
I got 60C max (ambient 27c) on 2 hrs of p95 test, usually around 58c with hyper 212 plus cooler. I'm using the thermal paste that comes with the cooler, should i change to ac mx 4 or chill factor ? Will it effect cooling performance like 4-5c difference ?


The temp limit of those chips is 62C...you're getting too close to the edge there. 58C is beyond my comfort level, too. For what it's worth, I hit mid 40's C on my 1090T at 3.75 Ghz, with hyper 212+ while Priming. The room was 83F, so it was warm. Your temps need some improvement. Do you have a 2nd fan to attach to the heatsink? Also..fill out your system specs so we can see what you have, and we can help suggest more.


----------



## unreal104

Phenom II x4 1055T
Giga GA-890FXA-UD5
TeamElite 1333Mhz 2x2 GB 9-9-9-24
WD Blue 500GB SATA 3
CM Hyper 212+ Single Fan
CM Elite 310 Case (2 intake fan, 1 exhaust fan)

Hope these helps!


----------



## staryoshi

Thanks for the feedback, but I think I'm going to go for the ASRock 890FX Deluxe4 board. Tot has been riding my backside to try it and I prefer the PCIE config


----------



## gooface

starting to get sick of the hard drive spinning up thing on this board (secondary data hard drive) I have to wait like 10 seconds to get it running everytime when I want to use it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Edit your power options in Windows 7; tell it to never power down the hard drives. I have done that constantly since Windows XP. Yes, it uses more power, but supposedly, it shortens lifespan to turn them on/off more frequently.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Hey guys, long time no post here...got a weird issue though..

Got a mechanical keyboard last night (xarmor U9BL) and its LED backlit. I have it plugged in via 2 usb ports (one is for the keyboard itself and the other is for the leds and the 2xusb 2.0 ports built into the keyboard)

However, when I shut my PC off, the keyboard stays lit???? Why is that? Are the usb ports powered when the rig is shut down? Is there a jumper or BIOS setting to disable that?


----------



## Blitz6804

Some of the USB ports remain on when the PC is off. This is the turbo charge feature they advertise. Try a different port. For example, I know that the RED USB header is powered, whereas the BLUE USB headers are not. As to which of the normal ports are powered or not, I do not remember.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Some of the USB ports remain on when the PC is off. This is the turbo charge feature they advertise. Try a different port. For example, I know that the RED USB header is powered, whereas the BLUE USB headers are not. As to which of the normal ports are powered or not, I do not remember.


You mean on the io panel in the back? I thought there was only yellow gray and black?

I'll try different port when I get home from work tonight, thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

I mean the headers near the bottom of the board that you plug expansions into. There are three (for 6 additional USB ports). I believe newer BIOSes have a switch to turn off the power-while-off, but given their stability...


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I mean the headers near the bottom of the board that you plug expansions into. There are three (for 6 additional USB ports). I believe newer BIOSes have a switch to turn off the power-while-off, but given their stability...


yeah but thats for the case usb headers...not the rear io ports where its plugged into

i have the F3 BIOS...hopefully theres a way to shut the feature off..id rather not have the leds on my expensive mechanical keyboard burn out prematurely because they are always on


----------



## Blitz6804

Some of the USBs on the IO are powered, some are not. I do not know which are which, you would need to experiment.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


Originally Posted by *unreal104* 
Phenom II x4 1055T
Giga GA-890FXA-UD5
TeamElite 1333Mhz 2x2 GB 9-9-9-24
WD Blue 500GB SATA 3
CM Hyper 212+ Single Fan
CM Elite 310 Case (2 intake fan, 1 exhaust fan)

Hope these helps!

Unreal: He meant to add the system to your profile so it appears on the end of everything you post.


----------



## myriad1973

Has anybody had any luck running 2000 MHz memory running at full speed? I bought Mushkin Blackline 2000 MHz with the UD5 with the intention of running it at full speed, but I have had no luck. Since the UD5 doesn't have a 10x memory multiplier, I tried running the FSB clock at 250 MHz, and lowering the CPU multiplier, but to no avail. The best I've been able to do is run it at 1600 MHz @ CL6 1T, although 2000 MHz @ CL7 2T would be better.


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *myriad1973*


Has anybody had any luck running 2000 MHz memory running at full speed? I bought Mushkin Blackline 2000 MHz with the UD5 with the intention of running it at full speed, but I have had no luck. Since the UD5 doesn't have a 10x memory multiplier, I tried running the FSB clock at 250 MHz, and lowering the CPU multiplier, but to no avail. The best I've been able to do is run it at 1600 MHz @ CL6 1T, although 2000 MHz @ CL7 2T would be better.


My Flares will run @ 2000 with 7-9-7-24-1T timings no problem.
What processor are you running?


----------



## myriad1973

X4 965 3.4 GHz


----------



## crunchie

You will not get the RAM to run @ 2000Mhz with that processor.


----------



## myriad1973

Well that figures. I wonder why?


----------



## crunchie

The processor is not rated for it. You need a Thuban.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Some of the USBs on the IO are powered, some are not. I do not know which are which, you would need to experiment.


so i tried a few things when i got home from work tonight...

right now the keyboard is connected via ps2 cable, and there is a second usb cable that connects to the mobo for the leds and the 2 usb 2.0 ports on the keyboard..

the damn thing still stays lit when i shut the pc off and its driving me insane lol..ive tried all the usb ports on the back of the mobo and it is still lit...whats strange though, is that when i unplug the usb cable (and the ps2 cable is still plugged in) it still stays lit??? How can the ps2 cable be powered when the pc is off?

Is this really the on/off charge feature thats causing this? i sent an email to gigabyte support asking this, still waiting on their reponse...

the keyboard leds still stay on even if i use a ps2 to usb adapter and have 2 usbs connected for the keyboard...

one last thing, i have a razer mouse with leds and that doesnt stay lit when the pc is off???


----------



## Blitz6804

There is an option to permit you to boot with "any key." Under power options, make sure it is set to "boot on: button only." Neither my keyboard nor my mouse have this problem you speak of. (But my biometrics sensor tends to stay lit.)


----------



## blaze15301

hello everyone/ im new here. i just bought a udp5 last week. and the multiplyer ratio only goes by 1s and not .5. from what i can tell the voltage reading is off. if i set ti to 1.500 it reads it as 1.488 under cpu-z and under the thermal control. i have a 720 be. and 4 gigs of g skill 1600. also i cant touch the ram past 1600. someone please help me.


----------



## crunchie

AFAIK you will not get past 1600 with that cpu.
What BIOS are you running? I believe the F6 BIOS causes that multiplier effect.


----------



## blaze15301

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


AFAIK you will not get past 1600 with that cpu.
What BIOS are you running? I believe the F6 BIOS causes that multiplier effect.


i was running f5 then upgraded to f6 thinking that would solve it i may go back to f4 or f3 if i can to see if anything gets fixed. as to the memory i wont even be able to go past 1600 a little bit like 1603? lol 1680 make everything go hay wire. also any idea about the voltages?


----------



## Blitz6804

You need to roll back to F3 or F4 to fix the multiplier. F3 tends to be the better option. The voltage droop you describe is 100% perfectly normal.


----------



## blaze15301

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


You need to roll back to F3 or F4 to fix the multiplier. F3 tends to be the better option. The voltage droop you describe is 100% perfectly normal.


ok so im confused then if the cpu runs at 1.488 does that mean i should up the voltage past 1.5 and still be safe? actually what does kill a cpu. voltage?


----------



## unreal104

guys...i need a advice... my cpu temp is getting very high reaching 58...
I'm using hypere 212+ and CM elite 310 casing.
My gfx card does exhaust hot air inside. Even in idle mode, its hotter than cpu..i can feel it
So shall I make side fan for gfx card exhaust ?


----------



## Blitz6804

blaze15301: I would not exceed the 1.500 V setting in the BIOS myself, if even that high. When I am set to 1.450, I read 1.440 V. As I said, the "droop" is normal.

unreal104: A side intake fan just before the Hyper 212+ would not be a bad idea. All you need is a 12cm holesaw (or a sawsall), a fan, a filter, and a couple of screw-sized holes. If the rest of your components' temperatures are okay, consider ducting the side intake that 100% of the air it brings in goes through the Hyper 212+. I do not, however, advocate installing a side exhaust for your GPU. It is more likely to mess up the intake of the GPU than vent the exhaust.

The only thing you might be able to do is install a PCI blower fan directly over the GPU, blocking the PCIe 1x slot. You will need to flip the bracket over so the fan intakes off the backside of the GPU and exhausts out of the case. This should intercept some of the hot air headed to the CPU from the GPU, and depending on the hardware setup, that fan has helped me.


----------



## jjceo

I find it strange that a good company like Gigabyte keeps updating the BIOS and that the updates do not seem to be any better than they have been. I keep going back to F3 and I have no problems.

I have used Gigabyte MB's for years and I have not seen this type of issue. They need to post better upgrade notes with the BIOS updates so we can all see what improvements have been made and whether we should adopt the new update or stay where we are at. I don't like being a tester for their BIOS's.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Edit your power options in Windows 7; tell it to never power down the hard drives. I have done that constantly since Windows XP. Yes, it uses more power, but supposedly, it shortens lifespan to turn them on/off more frequently.



That's not necessarily true. Some time ago, Google released a study on hard drives and their lifespan. Turning off and on apparently made no difference between drives that failed and those that did not, although I suspect a bad drive, or bad motor assembly may fail much sooner than a good one. I can't stand the drives turning off, either, but so far have left it that way just to save power. A link to the Ars article is below. I couldn't get the .pdf link to work.

http://arstechnica.com/old/content/2007/02/8917.ars


----------



## saiyanzzrage

FYI, I figured out why my mechanical keyboard LEDs were staying lit when I shut the PC off...theres a setting in the BIOS called "ErP support" under power options, that basically allows the usb/ps2 ports to be powered when the pc is off (to use the power on by mouse/keyboard, etc)

It is defaulted to Enabled, so I diabled it and viola!


----------



## kickmic

have CM 690 11 with x-dock, so want to enable hotswap HDD feature

are these correct settings for AHCI?
have I missed anything?
(already done windows regedit for AHCI)

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

thanks in advance


----------



## OscarD

I was installing an HD5970 and drivers from Saphire, was asked to restart; My System would not, and will not POST or reboot. The Hard Drive light just flashes, almost as if it is an error code or something. The MB lights are on, all fans are working, but, there is no apparent heat from anything. After a few sec. the 5970 fan gose to high.

I have also tried a new AMD processor, Video card, memory and Power Supply, but I get the same result.

(Everything seemed to be working perfectly before that restart.)
There were no sounds, smells or smoke. The board dos'nt show any physical damage( that I can see ).

Q: Is This a 'fried' board?

Q: Is there ( from your experience ) anything that can be done on my end to correct this problem?










MB: GA-890FXA-UD5
Ram: GSkill DDR3 16G
video card: Saphire HD5970


----------



## christoph

don't you have an speaker attached to the MOBO?

so you can here the trouble codes beeps?


----------



## Junglebizz

Hey Blitz, do you think running this G.Skill ECO 1.35V ram at 1.510v is too high? I have the CPU VID set to 1.250v also (+0.100).

I just updated the bios to F6 and it seems to be working quite well (at least so far with no more than 2 sticks of ram. Haven't tested 4 sticks yet). The heast spreaders do seem fairly warm, probably more so because of not having a HSF on the cpu moving some of the air around (using the CooIt ECO-R)

I am running at auto timings though which I think is defaulting to 9-9-9-24 (honestly after all the time I have spent on this, if it is stable at that, then that's what it's going to run at!)

Edit: Testing with all 4 sticks now installed at 9-9-9-24-2T, DDR-1333 and *1.410v* using the F6 bios. Do you think I should reduce the voltage on the ram to 1.410? I'm surprised the ram is running at DDR-1333 now when I couldn't get stable at DDR-1066 before on the F5 bios. I am tempted to try the F3 bios, but if this F6 seems to have corrected whatever was wrong, should I just stick with it? Multiplier increments mean nothing to me as this system was just going to be run at stock settings.


----------



## Blitz6804

They default to 1.510 V at 9-9-9-24, so I think that even though that is a little high for the RAM, G.Skill could not say anything if they die prematurely, because that is what the "auto" setting is programmed for. As far as I recall, the "RAM voltage" is not just for the RAM, but some also goes to the processor. This might be part of the problem why I am stabilizing my RAM at speeds greater than DDR3-1470: 1.410 is enough for the RAM, but the CPU side of the equation wants more. Increasing to 1.510 added about an hour to my Prime run, so there might be some validity in it.


----------



## unreal104

Which temperature is for what for ud5 ?? im a little confused

TMPIN0, TMPIN1, TMPIN2 ???


----------



## Stilly

Quote:


Originally Posted by *unreal104* 
Which temperature is for what for ud5 ?? im a little confused

TMPIN0, TMPIN1, TMPIN2 ???


Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp

All that info is on page 1 of this forum.

Tim


----------



## unreal104

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stilly*


Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp

All that info is on page 1 of this forum.

Tim










I saw that post but that one is meant for UD7..im using UD5...
The reason i asked is because..when i run p95, TMPIN2 reached as high as 64c,
TMPIN1 is around 52c, never reached 55c+...

So any suggestion ?


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:
New Members Added
Content Updated
Spreadsheets Audited

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unreal104*


I saw that post but that one is meant for UD7..im using UD5...
The reason i asked is because..when i run p95, TMPIN2 reached as high as 64c,
TMPIN1 is around 52c, never reached 55c+...

So any suggestion ?


Hmmmm...

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


*Q: *In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
*A:* TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp


Not sure how you arrived at that conclusion.....









I'm running the UD5 and it's my post...


















...am I on candid camera?









~fidof650


----------



## unreal104

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


P1 updated:
New Members Added
Content Updated
Spreadsheets Audited

Hmmmm...

Not sure how you arrived at that conclusion.....









I'm running the UD5 and it's my post...


















...am I on candid camera?









~fidof650


So errm.. during p95 test..is ur NB temp higher than CPU ?
btw add me as member here









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1527194


----------



## Blitz6804

For me, yes. I am using [email protected] SMP right now, and my CPU is 41Âº C, my NB is 47Âº C.


----------



## christoph

this is one thing I don't get and yet haven't research for it...

the NB of the UD5 is working a little to warm for my liking, and this seems normal since almost every user have the same readings

but one user have lower temperature readings as he change the thermal paste of the whole MOBO (NB/Mosfet/SB)

so may mean that the thermal paste of the MOBO just sucks, but since the temperature is not reaching 60 degrees there's no need to "fix it"...


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


this is one thing I don't get and yet haven't research for it...

the NB of the UD5 is working a little to warm for my liking, and this seems normal since almost every user have the same readings

but one user have lower temperature readings as he change the thermal paste of the whole MOBO (NB/Mosfet/SB)

so may mean that the thermal paste of the MOBO just sucks, but since the temperature is not reaching 60 degrees there's no need to "fix it"...


Word on the street is the NB has a maximum operating temperature of 70C

But I might dive into it when I get home for break, I plan on lapping my cooler then anyway.

AntiBump edit: some more RAM for the blacklist:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-memory/...amd-965-a.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145313
http://www.corsair.com/products/corei5/default.aspx

Model
CORSAIR DOMINATOR 8GB (2 x 4GB) CMP8GX3M2A1600C9

I still haven't been able to get it completely stable on 1600mhz and as discussed in the other thread it doesn't seem compatible.


----------



## Niffler

Having just got hold of my new rig I am having a lot of problems getting it stable. It is a V2.1 board which arrived with F4 bios. I have had the continuous bleeping, BSOD's and lockups.

I have tried most of the advice in this thread, fail safe settings, underclocking the ram etc, etc. but I am still having problems. Although when it works it will run Prime, Orthos and other stress tests without a problem. Then next start up os loads then almost immediately a bluey.

I have noticed that there seems to be a great difference in what bios works on what boards. With this in mind can I re-flash mine with F3 as that seems to be the most functional. Failing that working it looks like a RMA.

I am reasonably compantant with computers and my last rig was a lapped E6600 clocked to 3.6 stable, but failing to get this stable at stock isn't a good start for a "hoped for" 4G oc.

Sorry for the long post, great thread.
Regards


----------



## christoph

oh yeah, about the lapping...

some say that use mostly 400, 600 and for the finish 800 grit paper, but the my main question is that some say turn the heatsink 90 degrees every past until you do a full turn but some say better not to do this...????


----------



## unreal104

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Niffler* 
Having just got hold of my new rig I am having a lot of problems getting it stable. It is a V2.1 board which arrived with F4 bios. I have had the continuous bleeping, BSOD's and lockups.

I have tried most of the advice in this thread, fail safe settings, underclocking the ram etc, etc. but I am still having problems. Although when it works it will run Prime, Orthos and other stress tests without a problem. Then next start up os loads then almost immediately a bluey.

I have noticed that there seems to be a great difference in what bios works on what boards. With this in mind can I re-flash mine with F3 as that seems to be the most functional. Failing that working it looks like a RMA.

I am reasonably compantant with computers and my last rig was a lapped E6600 clocked to 3.6 stable, but failing to get this stable at stock isn't a good start for a "hoped for" 4G oc.

Sorry for the long post, great thread.
Regards

Yea I agreed... i change to this mb (before that i was using asus m4a88td-v-evo) because it got many positive reviews... bought and directly updated the bios to F6...cant even get 3.5ghz with vcore 1.5 which is lame...
now with F3 3.5GHZ at default vcore perfectly stable..can OC to 4GHZ but within 15 mins of running p95, NB reached as high as 65c which im not comfortable with it... cpu remains below 55c.. 890 NB is really hot i also experienced in asus mb


----------



## Niffler

@christop: There are a few good guides on the net regarding lapping. I used a mirror, nice and flat, with the paper taped to it in a square. The cpu was then moved in a circular motion for five turns. It was then turned through 90 degrees. Another five turns and so on until the desired effect is reached.

The grit you mentioned is too heavy. I went from 1200 > 1500 > 2000 grit and got an almost mirror finish. However I had a cpu with a concave ihs which didn't cool very well. Don't do it unless you have to. If your cpu is flat which most are, the gains are not really worth the hassle.The way to check that is again with a mirror.

Cover the cpu with thermal paste and place it on a mirror. Lift it off, if the paste has left a square ring it is concave, if there is a small blob in the middle it is convex. Neither will cool very well.

@unreal104: Looks like F3 when I get home in the morning.
Regards

Almost forgot, if you lapp the cpu look at the heatsink as well, you would be suprised as to how rough some are!!


----------



## Blitz6804

When I lapped (my cooler), I started off at 400 grit, worked up through to 2000, and finished off with some toothpaste for the really fine grit. The metal on a CPU is a little softer than that of a cooler, so you might be able to start at 600 or 800, but I have not yet tried one. Also, I dissuade you against using circular motions. Do 4-5 passes in one direction, spin 90Âº, repeat. Keep doing that until the sand paper seems to have lost its effectiveness and move to a finer grit.


----------



## Niffler

I love the world of computers. We all have our own ways of doing things.


----------



## christoph

yeah

actually I read I lot a couple of months back when I was thinking of lapping my HS

I have the TRUE 120 BE, and the CPU has been always 10-12 degrees warmer than the ambient temperature, with 3 CPU tested under this HS (amd 1 tricore, 940 and now 1055t)

I was thinking of lapping the HS (again) if I could get some 5 degrees of improvement that would be great


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:


Originally Posted by *VirtualJockey* 
Got 4GHz Prime95 stable today on air.









x20 CPU
1.45v

My socket temp is scraping the MAX temp threshold, so this is as good as I'm gonna get with my current rig.
(Titan Amanda TEC cooler modded with Noctua NF-B9 fans)

Okay, but your setup doesn't count as 'air'. Titan Amanda TEC modded with Noctua NF-B9 fans is honorary water cooling.


----------



## orion2001

Hi guys, I finally put the mboard together today with the 2 x 2GB G.Skill 2000mhz RAM and need some assistance to see whether Im on the right track to get them stable at a lower speed to suit my system specs in my sig please.

RAM specs:
G.SKILL RIPJAW (BLACK); F3-16000CL9D-4GBRH ; DDR3 Memory
2000Mhz (PC3-16000) ; CAS Latency 9-9-9-24 ; 2x 2GB (= 4GB Capacity)
1.65 Volts ; Unbuffered / non ECC ; 240-pin DIMM

With bios RAM settings set at auto it showed up at 1333mhz (6.66 x 200) as expected. I tried to see if it ran stable at 1333mhz but got BSOD's within half hour-1hr of use. I double checked Bios settings after this happened a couple of times and found that the previous owner of this motherboard had manually set CPU voltages, so I changed them back to Auto - doh!.

Right now I'm typing with RAM settings at 8 x 200 (1600mhz) and 7-7-7-24 timings and it is currently going OK for the last hour with no BSOD. Should I also be upping voltage somewhere too or dont touch anything just yet? I just finished running AMD's Overdrive stability test in the background and it completed it with no issues. I am going to try Prime95 overnight.

If all is good, Im thinking of then oc'ing the CPU to 3.8mhz (19x200) as Im still currently on the stock 3.2mhz (16x200).

Is this pretty much the same thing you guys would have done if in my shoes? I'd like to have the RAM run stable for now with the 955 BE as I do plan to upgrade to a 6-core next year sometime and then up the RAM for higher speeds. Thanks for any assistance


----------



## bdfun

My first post is to say thanks to everyone for all the info. I finally reached a stable 4 ghz and could not have done it without this forum.
Thanks
Big Dave


----------



## ToxicAdam

How to update the SATA RAID drivers without a floppy drive?

Gigabyte posted new drivers on their website but I have no idea how to install them.


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


Originally Posted by *orion2001* 
Hi guys, I finally put the mboard together today with the 2 x 2GB G.Skill 2000mhz RAM and need some assistance to see whether Im on the right track to get them stable at a lower speed to suit my system specs in my sig please.

RAM specs:
G.SKILL RIPJAW (BLACK); F3-16000CL9D-4GBRH ; DDR3 Memory
2000Mhz (PC3-16000) ; CAS Latency 9-9-9-24 ; 2x 2GB (= 4GB Capacity)
1.65 Volts ; Unbuffered / non ECC ; 240-pin DIMM

With bios RAM settings set at auto it showed up at 1333mhz (6.66 x 200) as expected. I tried to see if it ran stable at 1333mhz but got BSOD's within half hour-1hr of use. I double checked Bios settings after this happened a couple of times and found that the previous owner of this motherboard had manually set CPU voltages, so I changed them back to Auto - doh!.

Right now I'm typing with RAM settings at 8 x 200 (1600mhz) and 7-7-7-24 timings and it is currently going OK for the last hour with no BSOD. Should I also be upping voltage somewhere too or dont touch anything just yet? I just finished running AMD's Overdrive stability test in the background and it completed it with no issues. I am going to try Prime95 overnight.

If all is good, Im thinking of then oc'ing the CPU to 3.8mhz (19x200) as Im still currently on the stock 3.2mhz (16x200).

Is this pretty much the same thing you guys would have done if in my shoes? I'd like to have the RAM run stable for now with the 955 BE as I do plan to upgrade to a 6-core next year sometime and then up the RAM for higher speeds. Thanks for any assistance










you'll probably be needing to up your voltage to 1.392v if you're planning to OC to 3.8ghz.

my ram's timing is 7-8-7-24.

i've been running great, no problems . no crashes. stable at 3.8ghz .
my system temperature average on 39-42 C

good luck on your OCing your UD5 on a 955 BE =P

________________________________________

question....

what's a good BIOS for the 890FXA UD5 ?
im currently at F1 , running just fine. no problems.

should i flash to a more updated BIOS ? or just stay?


----------



## orion2001

Thanks blackalphabet








I cant seem to get it stable at 3.8Ghz, even when upping the voltage in increments up to an extra 0.5v. Not real keen to take it above 1.4v as dont really think it'll be worth it. Im happy with a stable 3617mhz on OEM CPU voltage + 0.05v now to 1.4v. Thanks again to those guys who have assisted









An answer to your Q: As far as Bios is concerned I've been told 'if it aint broke dont fix it' but then you could be missing out on some cool features you could use. my advise is to do some research into what the Bios upgrades provide as they might not give you as many multipliers as the early bios' do. I think a jump to F3 might be good for you, but not sure from there on. There's a lot of pages on here to read through and Im sure some guys had issues with the newer bios's. Perhaps someone with a bit more experience can elaborate?

Validation here:


----------



## vindiesel

Which 16GB RAM do you recommend for the UD5?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bdfun*


My first post is to say thanks to everyone for all the info. I finally reached a stable 4 ghz and could not have done it without this forum. 
Thanks
Big Dave




Quote:



Originally Posted by *orion2001*


Validation here: 











In the paragraph above the "Members Profile: Validated" spreadsheet there is a link that says: "this link to the input form."

It will direct you to this URL: http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewf...s2N3c6MQ#gid=0

This URL is the home of the input form. Fill in the blanks on the input form and click "Submit" at the end to be added to the spread sheet.

Please refer to P1 for more information about spreadsheet administration.

P1 Updated:
New Members added
Keep up the good work!

~fidof650


----------



## ToxicAdam

Since updating the bios to F6 my apps are freezing on the desktop... and i'm getting memory management BSOD. would the bios affect something like this?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Since updating the bios to F6 my apps are freezing on the desktop... and i'm getting memory management BSOD. would the bios affect something like this?


Yeah, go back to F3 or F4 BIOS.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Yeah, go back to F3 or F4 BIOS.


Downloading F4 now.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Downloading F4 now.


Restore you mobo to the default BIOS, and after that update to F4 BIOS.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Why do people recommend F3 over F4?


----------



## Blitz6804

After you update BIOS, make sure you clear the CMOS. If you use the Windows application, there is a checkbox there to have it clear the CMOS for you automatically. I prefer F3 over F4 because I have proven F3 is stable, and have never tried F4. I figured if it works well, why bother?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


After you update BIOS, make sure you clear the CMOS. If you use the Windows application, there is a checkbox there to have it clear the CMOS for you automatically. I prefer F3 over F4 because I have proven F3 is stable, and have never tried F4. I figured if it works well, why bother?


I'm using F4 BIOS and works fine, I can archive 3.8GHz stable with little increase to 1.325V. Not problems with SSD or overclocks, RAM stable at manufacturer timings even without have a QVL RAM.


----------



## fidof650

F3 had some audio glitches for me. F4 has been rock solid since inception. Note: I haven't been chasing sky high OCs either. When I see a BIOS update that people are raving about I'll re-flash but until then, as long as everything is running smooth I've got no reason to change. If I was running an X6 proc I might be singing a different tune... any thoughts X6ers? ~fidof650


----------



## saint19

I can validate 4.5GHz with the F4 BIOS and a 1090T


----------



## Blitz6804

fidof650: We all know what happened when I tried F5... F6 I refused to try based on that.


----------



## ToxicAdam

I went ahead and rollback to F4. I'll report back if I get any more freezes..


----------



## fidof650




Blitz6804 said:


> fidof650: We all know what happened when I tried F5... F6 I refused to try based on that.


 Can't say as I blame you!!! :yessir: What a nightmare that was!!! :doh: We'll need a new guinea pig....  any volunteers? :hypocrite :devil: ~fidof650:gunner:


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe come F7 I will give it another go...


----------



## crunchie

Still on F3 here with no problem. 4.5Ghz validated.


----------



## christoph

F6 is good to go, the only thing about it, is that the cpu multiplier won't have half numbers anymore (11,12,13,14 instead of 11.5,12,12.5)


----------



## ttaylor0024

Can someone help me with OCing the FSB? I cant seem to get the voltage right or something and is never stable.....


----------



## unreal104

IMO F3 is still the best, I have used f4 before 3.85 with 1.37 vcore it wont boot but f3 does. I know i cant get 3.85ghz with 1.37vcore stable but still booted to window only got BSOD when running p95.
With f3 bios, with most resonable setting at least it boot to windows except if u try to run 3.8ghz+ with stock vcore LOL..

and up to now i dont have any issues with f3..stable and working properly


----------



## unreal104

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttaylor0024;11636667*
> Can someone help me with OCing the FSB? I cant seem to get the voltage right or something and is never stable.....


bro try playing CPU NB/VID..


----------



## blaze15301

can someone add me to the club please. heres your validation.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1534701


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blaze15301*


can someone add me to the club please. heres your validation.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1534701


In the paragraph above the "Members Profile: Validated" spreadsheet there is a link that says: "this link to the input form."

It will direct you to this URL: http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewf...s2N3c6MQ#gid=0

This URL is the home of the input form. Fill in the blanks on the input form and click "Submit" at the end to be added to the spread sheet.

Please refer to P1 for more information about spreadsheet administration.

~fidof650


----------



## ToxicAdam

I just OC to 3.6ghz and set turbo core to 4.0ghz

Do you guys think this will work on stock voltage? Given the cpu load voltage will be 1.47v


----------



## Blitz6804

I would think it would. 1.440 V is all I need for all cores to go to 4.0 GHz, so with the boost to 1.475 V, it should be more than enough for three cores.


----------



## Niffler

@Saint19: I see that you have a good o/c using the crucial BT. I have the plain old Ballistix, which is the same without the lights. However I have tried F4, came with board, F6 and following the information here I have reverted to F3. My system is now completely,







, stable at stock. The difference is that I have a V2.1 board. F4 and 6 were just not working for me. Is there a difference in the way bios's work on the different versions?


----------



## fidof650

P1 Updated:

Added missing information to the Spreadsheet
Edited the Spreadsheet for content errors
Edited the Spreadsheet for continuity errors

Keep up the good work!









~fidof650


----------



## bfis108137

First of all, I would like to say that while I consider myself very good with computers I have never really delved into the OC arena and I am not sure that I will be although I have left that option open to me with this board purchase. I will be formally requesting membership but I am not at the actual computer in order to run the cpu-z. I have a new build that should show up in my system specs in my signature. It has never been stable. Basically it locks up doing basic stuff. I have seen one blue screen, but many times I will wake up to the message that the system has recovered from a critical error. I have not run any games yet and I am not sure when I will because I am bankrupt from the system and I am running just a slightly more than basic GPU. I do have all kinds of programs running that I like for example No ip software along with hamachi vpn as well as Easy Tune 6. I also run a asterisk server using vmware. I guess I would just like to know if anyone here has encountered any problems with the hardware that I have listed here. Where would you recommend I start? I have updated all drivers.


----------



## unreal104

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfis108137;11653735*
> First of all, I would like to say that while I consider myself very good with computers I have never really delved into the OC arena and I am not sure that I will be although I have left that option open to me with this board purchase. I will be formally requesting membership but I am not at the actual computer in order to run the cpu-z. I have a new build that should show up in my system specs in my signature. It has never been stable. Basically it locks up doing basic stuff. I have seen one blue screen, but many times I will wake up to the message that the system has recovered from a critical error. I have not run any games yet and I am not sure when I will because I am bankrupt from the system and I am running just a slightly more than basic GPU. I do have all kinds of programs running that I like for example No ip software along with hamachi vpn as well as Easy Tune 6. I also run a asterisk server using vmware. I guess I would just like to know if anyone here has encountered any problems with the hardware that I have listed here. Where would you recommend I start? I have updated all drivers.


my advice is run prime95 and monitor for temperature, u have to run at least 8 hrs minimum, and run superPi for fast memory test.


----------



## bfis108137

I don't know if it will run for 8 hours without locking up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unreal104;11654642*
> my advice is run prime95 and monitor for temperature, u have to run at least 8 hrs minimum, and run superPi for fast memory test.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11643624*
> I would think it would. 1.440 V is all I need for all cores to go to 4.0 GHz, so with the boost to 1.475 V, it should be more than enough for three cores.


Thanks!


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfis108137;11655032*
> I don't know if it will run for 8 hours without locking up.


thats why you should make it or tweak your settings so that your system will run for 8 hours+ with no lock ups and no BSOD.

how are your temperatures running?
if you're running everything on stock settings, you shouldn't be getting any errors unless the board you got is faulty.

first, try turning all your applications off. just the basics to run your computer. don't even need to do basic stuff. no softwares running in the taskbar or in the background.

open up your HWMonitor, CPU-Z, prime95. just run your prime95, at like standard for a couple hours. see how it holds it. and slowly progress yourself.


----------



## bfis108137

Ok so I have made all kinds of progress.

I get all kinds of errors in prime95.

It says:
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4

I played around with all of the voltages for the memory as well as the cpu like I saw in some other forums for this error but that

only made it worse.

I decided it was something to do with the memory at some point because in my hardware monitor I switched from one memory chip to

the next and it caused the computer to get stuck. I had a 4gb stick in slots 1 and 2. I removed the stick from slot 2 (I will

call that mem2) and just went with the stick in slot 1 (I will call that stick mem1). The computer wouldn't even boot. I took

mem1 out and put mem2 in it's place and I got the same thing. My immediate reaction was bad slot. I put mem1 in slot 3 Slots 1

and 3 are supposed to be for higher speeds although it probably doesn't matter since these are only 1333 mhz. I got a much better

results as far as the time it took for the errors to occur but I still got those errors eventually. The forst error came after

about 5 minutes instead of say 1 min which is what I got before.

Next I decided to put mem1 in slot 3. I am currently watching prime95 and after 15 minutes I still have no errors. My instinct

is that I have 1 bad stick and a bad board. Tell me what you think. Is there anyway it is just a tweaking thing? I really don't

want to rma it since I bought it from newegg and then took the parts overseas. I have no intention of going back to the States

anytime soon so I would have to involve other people and I am sure the shipping costs will be pretty significant.

On another note, I am quite worried. Max temp on my cpu is 62C and it is up to 56. I am currently using the stock cooler so this is to be expected but I am pretty sure it will get to the 62 before the 8 hours arrives. Now it has gone 30 mins without problem. Could I stop it at this point? If no one answers by the time it reaches 62 I am obviously going to stop it.

Thanks,

Baruch


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfis108137;11657381*
> Ok so I have made all kinds of progress.
> 
> I get all kinds of errors in prime95.
> 
> It says:
> FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
> 
> I played around with all of the voltages for the memory as well as the cpu like I saw in some other forums for this error but that
> 
> only made it worse.
> 
> I decided it was something to do with the memory at some point because in my hardware monitor I switched from one memory chip to
> 
> the next and it caused the computer to get stuck. I had a 4gb stick in slots 1 and 2. I removed the stick from slot 2 (I will
> 
> call that mem2) and just went with the stick in slot 1 (I will call that stick mem1). The computer wouldn't even boot. I took
> 
> mem1 out and put mem2 in it's place and I got the same thing. My immediate reaction was bad slot. I put mem1 in slot 3 Slots 1
> 
> and 3 are supposed to be for higher speeds although it probably doesn't matter since these are only 1333 mhz. I got a much better
> 
> results as far as the time it took for the errors to occur but I still got those errors eventually. The forst error came after
> 
> about 5 minutes instead of say 1 min which is what I got before.
> 
> Next I decided to put mem1 in slot 3. I am currently watching prime95 and after 15 minutes I still have no errors. My instinct
> 
> is that I have 1 bad stick and a bad board. Tell me what you think. Is there anyway it is just a tweaking thing? I really don't
> 
> want to rma it since I bought it from newegg and then took the parts overseas. I have no intention of going back to the States
> 
> anytime soon so I would have to involve other people and I am sure the shipping costs will be pretty significant.
> 
> On another note, I am quite worried. Max temp on my cpu is 62C and it is up to 56. I am currently using the stock cooler so this is to be expected but I am pretty sure it will get to the 62 before the 8 hours arrives. Now it has gone 30 mins without problem. Could I stop it at this point? If no one answers by the time it reaches 62 I am obviously going to stop it.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Baruch


Hi and welcome to OCN.

What settings has you change in the BIOS?

1- What cooler do you have?.
2- You need uninstall EasyTune.
3- Disable Turbo core, C1E and Cool'n'Quite.


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfis108137;11657381*
> Ok so I have made all kinds of progress.
> 
> I get all kinds of errors in prime95.
> 
> It says:
> FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
> 
> I played around with all of the voltages for the memory as well as the cpu like I saw in some other forums for this error but that
> 
> only made it worse.
> 
> I decided it was something to do with the memory at some point because in my hardware monitor I switched from one memory chip to
> 
> the next and it caused the computer to get stuck. I had a 4gb stick in slots 1 and 2. I removed the stick from slot 2 (I will
> 
> call that mem2) and just went with the stick in slot 1 (I will call that stick mem1). The computer wouldn't even boot. I took
> 
> mem1 out and put mem2 in it's place and I got the same thing. My immediate reaction was bad slot. I put mem1 in slot 3 Slots 1
> 
> and 3 are supposed to be for higher speeds although it probably doesn't matter since these are only 1333 mhz. I got a much better
> 
> results as far as the time it took for the errors to occur but I still got those errors eventually. The forst error came after
> 
> about 5 minutes instead of say 1 min which is what I got before.
> 
> Next I decided to put mem1 in slot 3. I am currently watching prime95 and after 15 minutes I still have no errors. My instinct
> 
> is that I have 1 bad stick and a bad board. Tell me what you think. Is there anyway it is just a tweaking thing? I really don't
> 
> want to rma it since I bought it from newegg and then took the parts overseas. I have no intention of going back to the States
> 
> anytime soon so I would have to involve other people and I am sure the shipping costs will be pretty significant.
> 
> On another note, I am quite worried. Max temp on my cpu is 62C and it is up to 56. I am currently using the stock cooler so this is to be expected but I am pretty sure it will get to the 62 before the 8 hours arrives. Now it has gone 30 mins without problem. Could I stop it at this point? If no one answers by the time it reaches 62 I am obviously going to stop it.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Baruch


even with a stock cooler, without OCing . im pretty sure your CPU temp shouldnt be reaching that high of a temp. you said you were playing around with your voltages, etc. and you're not looking to OC at all. try to reset your MOBO to factory settings, to the way you first got it that beautiful day you received your 890FXA-UD5 and try from there. with your ram, try putting it in MEM_SLOT 3 & 4. you can skip 1 & 2.

when your comp goes to window, check to see if you comp is reading both memory sticks. since you have 2 x 2GB , you should be reading about 4GB, if you are reading only 2GB with the (2 x 2GB) then yeah, one of your sticks is a goner.

if you're reaching max temps, past 55 C . just power it off, before you damage anything else. check to see if your CPU cooler is installed correctly.

go into bios, as you start your comp. check your PC Health Status.


----------



## bfis108137

I have not changed any settings in the bios. Al of my settings are fail-safe defaults. I have easytune installed. that's how I know what my cpu temp is. What is C1E? I do have the stock cooler installed at the moment. I was hoping to upgrade that later but I have found a temporary cooling solution at least to run the test. Regarding Turbo core, C1E, and Cool N'quiet, I am in the middle of my 8 hour prime95 test so I don't want to go into the bios at this time. Anyways, as it stands right now it would see that I have a defective mb and one defective memory stick


----------



## bfis108137

I have 2 X 4, and my settings are back to fail safe. My cpu wasn't reaching that hign of a temp until i ran the prime95 test. Apparently it is heavy on the cpu. Anyways I have found a temporary cooling solution until the test finishes and have gotten the cpu down to 46.


----------



## Blitz6804

The 62º C maximum temp is for "core." "Core" is generally 5º C hotter than "CPU." Thus, if you only are looking at the "CPU" sensor, you should keep it under 57º C. Prime95 does tax a CPU pretty good, but there are programs out there that push it even harder, if you would believe it. SMP [email protected] gets my cores to 47º C, Prime95 gets my cores to 51º C, SnM pushes 54º C or higher.


----------



## unreal104

btw..my NB reached as high as 65c when the voltage set to 1.42... is it safe ?... i googled for this matter and i saw one thread that a guy is using MSI 890FX mobo..his NB temp is 70+ under idle...85+ underload..

Mine is 40+ idle ... with 1.42 vcore i got 65c.. i guess the higher the vcore the higher the NB temperature will get.. Im really uncomfortable with NB temperature when I up the vcore...
I dont even up NB vcore..

Now i just stick with stock voltage @ 3.5GHZ, i got NB temp of 55c max.. i try to test with default clock speed..NB temperature still the same, still 55c...

So is it because of VRM temperature rising that makes the NB hotter ? cause all the heatsink are connected by heatpipes...

Any more ideas ?


----------



## saint19

Gigabyte says that the NB can handle 85ºC but I 'd not test that temps.


----------



## unreal104

another problem is my gfx card is like this one: http://www.palit.biz/main/vgapro_discontiuned.php?id=853

So its messing my sidefan air flow >>>>--<<<<.. therefore the cool air does not reached to NB area
any ideas for solving that ?


----------



## unreal104

take a look at this one also:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1032-page7.html


----------



## bfis108137

Ok I believe that I have fixed my problem. As it turns out, the memory slots were not clean enough as I saw nothing but it was a stab in the dark. I just have a few questions now.

My cpu is heating up to 55C when I run prime95 for 30 mins which forces me to stop it. So I guess in reality I don't know if it's really stable but considering that I was not able to run prime95 for more than 2 minutes without any errors and usually more like 30 secs and now I have run it successfully at least 5 time for 30 mins and once for an hour with a household fan directly pointed at the processor with the case open, I am fairly confident that all is well which leads me to my first question.

Should my processor heat up this quickly? The fan is stock and the compound is as well but I am not overclocking. I am going to check the heat sink, but could it just be that the stock fan isn't enough for this processor? It's running idle at 35C. Is it possible that it's a bad processor or that I ruined it? It got to 58 at one point before I shut it down but that was for less than a minute. It was however in the 55-57 range for a good 10 minutes. I do have an extra freezer 64 pro. Would that help me? I read somewhere that it's outdated and that it's no better than the stock cooler.

Thanks,

Baruch


----------



## unreal104

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfis108137;11670855*
> Ok I believe that I have fixed my problem. As it turns out, the memory slots were not clean enough as I saw nothing but it was a stab in the dark. I just have a few questions now.
> 
> My cpu is heating up to 55C when I run prime95 for 30 mins which forces me to stop it. So I guess in reality I don't know if it's really stable but considering that I was not able to run prime95 for more than 2 minutes without any errors and usually more like 30 secs and now I have run it successfully at least 5 time for 30 mins and once for an hour with a household fan directly pointed at the processor with the case open, I am fairly confident that all is well which leads me to my first question.
> 
> Should my processor heat up this quickly? The fan is stock and the compound is as well but I am not overclocking. I am going to check the heat sink, but could it just be that the stock fan isn't enough for this processor? It's running idle at 35C. Is it possible that it's a bad processor or that I ruined it? It got to 58 at one point before I shut it down but that was for less than a minute. It was however in the 55-57 range for a good 10 minutes. I do have an extra freezer 64 pro. Would that help me? I read somewhere that it's outdated and that it's no better than the stock cooler.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Baruch


Cheap and good coolers you could get for are Hyper 212+ or Scythe Mugen 2


----------



## antuk15

Guys my newly purchased Phenom 2 x6 1075T has just blew my MSI 790FX GD70's pathetic 5 phase power circuits.

Had a Gigabyte EP45 Extreme back in the day and it was amazing!

How will the UD7 handle a 4Ghz+ Phenom 2 x6 on a 24/7 basis???

Also, what metal is the supplied NB water block made from?


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unreal104*


Cheap and good coolers you could get for are Hyper 212+ or Scythe Mugen 2


as he said. get the Hyper 212+ , its a great cooler, imply the push/pull concept, and you'll be able to keep it under 36 C without OCing. >


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antuk15;11672926*
> Guys my newly purchased Phenom 2 x6 1075T has just blew my MSI 790FX GD70's pathetic 5 phase power circuits.
> 
> Had a Gigabyte EP45 Extreme back in the day and it was amazing!
> 
> How will the UD7 handle a 4Ghz+ Phenom 2 x6 on a 24/7 basis???
> 
> Also, what metal is the supplied NB water block made from?


well, the UD5 that most of the people over here have (including me) , is been working great or even more than great with any CPU...

but since you want the UD7 for the water block; it should be aluminum


----------



## Klinkey

Soon to be me


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klinkey;11679078*
> Soon to be me


If you don't have yet the case for your sig rig, I suggest you go with a better one. The V9 space isn't as big as you think and doesn't have cable management.


----------



## antuk15

God sake...just found out my new Cosmos S case wont take a UD7 because it doesn't have enough pci spaces


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


but since you want the UD7 for the water block; it should be aluminum


Has anyone tried fitting a UD7 NB water-block to the UD5 yet?

P1 Updated:
New Content Added
New Members Added
~fidof650


----------



## christoph

some guys in this same forum wanted to try that, and it seems that is imposible, cuz the waterblock needs to be screwed to the lower part of the NB

but don't know if the succeeded somehow...


----------



## JoSeLeMiX69

Hi mates, I have one question.

Sometimes there is half second or 1 second delay on "loading operating system" message:

- "loading operating system" appears.
- sometimes 1/2 or 1 second delay.
- blinking cursor appears underneath "l.o.s." message, and then Windows 7 starts to load.

Can you tell me if you have sometimes this delay?

Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoSeLeMiX69;11687256*
> Hi mates, I have one question.
> 
> Sometimes there is half second or 1 second delay on "loading operating system" message:
> 
> - "loading operating system" appears.
> - sometimes 1/2 or 1 second delay.
> - blinking cursor appears underneath "l.o.s." message, and then Windows 7 starts to load.
> 
> Can you tell me if you have sometimes this delay?
> 
> Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english.


yeah but should be normal, the bios is just checking if the drive where's the Operating sys is O.K.

but this is what normally all the BIOSes do, so this time could be another thing...

??????


----------



## JoSeLeMiX69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;11687812*
> yeah but should be normal, the bios is just checking if the drive where's the Operating sys is O.K.
> 
> but this is what normally all the BIOSes do, so this time could be another thing...
> 
> ??????


And do you experience sometimes that small delay? it's just 1/2 second.


----------



## christoph

yeah it looks like gaming lag, just a second or so

and is like you said, sometimes appear sometimes don't

I still think is prety normal


----------



## JoSeLeMiX69

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JoSeLeMiX69*

Hi mates, I have one question.

Sometimes there is half second or 1 second delay on "loading operating system" message:

- "loading operating system" appears.
- sometimes 1/2 or 1 second delay.
- blinking cursor appears underneath "l.o.s." message, and then Windows 7 starts to load.

Can you tell me if you have sometimes this delay?

Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*

yeah it looks like gaming lag, just a second or so

and is like you said, sometimes appear sometimes don't

I still think is prety normal


Gaming lag?


----------



## christoph

yeah is like the cursor stops for a second or so

is normal, and it shouldn't be theme for a discussion unless something happen of course...


----------



## ToxicAdam

What does "turbo cpb" mean in the bios? Do you have to enable it also for turbo boost function to work?


----------



## JoSeLeMiX69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;11694106*
> yeah is like the cursor stops for a second or so
> 
> is normal, and it shouldn't be theme for a discussion unless something happen of course...


Thanks dude, but my lag occurs after "loading operating system" and before the underneath cursor appears.

But like you said, i think it's ok.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam;11694239*
> What does "turbo cpb" mean in the bios? Do you have to enable it also for turbo boost function to work?


Auto overclock for your CPU.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoSeLeMiX69;11695127*
> Thanks dude, but my lag occurs after "loading operating system" and before the underneath cursor appears.
> 
> But like you said, i think it's ok.


yeah is exactly like you say, but I'm sure is fine, I got that too, and so far nobody has complaint about it


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Auto overclock for your CPU.


So this is separate from the turbo feature and can be left disabled?


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe it must be set to "Auto" to permit Turbo to function. I prefer to just clock my CPU to 4.0 GHz full time, rather than having it only sometimes be 4.0 GHz, and forget about it.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I believe it must be set to "Auto" to permit Turbo to function. I prefer to just clock my CPU to 4.0 GHz full time, rather than having it only sometimes be 4.0 GHz, and forget about it.


The "turbo cpb" doesn't have a auto option.. its either enable or disable.


----------



## Blitz6804

I meant enable.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11705057*
> I meant enable.


There seems to be two Turbo options. "Turbo cpb" is left disable by default..

Gigabyte need to update their user guide.. this is confusing.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam;11705140*
> There seems to be two Turbo options. "Turbo cpb" is left disable by default..
> 
> Gigabyte need to update their user guide.. this is confusing.


how can it be confusing??

if we don't know **** about it


----------



## saint19

I guys, some body here has Windows XP SP3 installed on this mobo? I has tried install it in my SATA HD but doesn't work. Do I need something additional? For now is installed in an IDE HD and my SSD keeps the main OS.


----------



## crunchie

No problems here. Install XP first though. Only problem I had was fixing the MBR after as XP was not seen. Apparently it's an issue when installing to different drives.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crunchie*


No problems here. Install XP first though. Only problem I had was fixing the MBR after as XP was not seen. Apparently it's an issue when installing to different drives.


So, I will need unplug my SSD, install XP and connect the SSD again right? Di you installed XP on IDE or AHCI mode?


----------



## crunchie

AHCI and add the drivers during install. You will probably need to use EasyBCD to fix the MBR after.


----------



## saint19

Ok, so, I will need install a 3.5" drive to load the drivers


----------



## crunchie

Yes, unless you can slipstream them onto a CD using nlite.


----------



## Peiler

A quick question for fellow GA-890FXA-UD7 owners:

Is it only me or all of you get weird temps in HW Monitor?

I get like 32'C Max temp per core at full load under Prime95 at 4.05GHz and the max CPU temp from TMPIN1is 43'C

I also got 95'C from TMPIN2 but I ignored that for now...


----------



## Thorn-Blade

At least you are not getting 36C for TMPIN1 at idle...


----------



## Blitz6804

Peiler: Thuban temperature sensor is broken. Either add 13Âº C to "core" or use the fact that "CPU" is about 5Âº C cooler, so strive to keep "CPU" below 57Âº C.


----------



## blackalphabet

hey guys,

my ram speed is currently 673.4 MHz (3:10) @ 7-8-7-24

how do i speed it up to 1333 or 1600 ? O_O


----------



## Blitz6804

You currently have DDR3-1347. I fail to see an issue?


----------



## blackalphabet

wait, where are you reading that? i updated my CPU-Z validation


----------



## Blostorm

My board doesn't post anymore with 4 dimms...Beeeps beeeps beeeps. DIMMs in slot 2 and 4 works.

Stupid board. Now RMA TIME? Alright be there in 1 month with custom fees and stuff..I'm so mad why the hell did I get gigabyte ? Asus here I come.


----------



## bfis108137

Ok so in my last post I had stated that I seemingly had fixed all of my problems that were occurring with stock settings. However there was no way to know for sure since I wasn't able to run prime95 for more than 30-45 mins since my cpu would get too hot. So I went out and splurged a little on a noctua nh-d14, but there was just one problem. When I went to take out the heatsink, the cpu came right with it. Yes I twisted it and it seemed to be giving but that was the cpu coming out of it's socket while still locked. I have learned so next time I will try and get the cpu temps up there before i start to take off the heatsink. Anyways I straighten the bent pins, put my new hunk of a cooler in, and it worked. Also, my temps couldn't be more steady. After 2 hours of prime95, my cpu was a steady 40C so I decided I would run an overnight test. When I woke up in the morning, I was sad to see a failure in which 2 of my 6 workers had stopped at exactly the same time at about 5 hours in to the test. Now granted this is a drastic improvement of what I had before which was all workers stopped within 3 minutes but this is still not what i was looking for. What should I do now? Could it be related to the cpu thing? I have no way of knowing since i cound;t get that far before. Remember that all of my settings are stock. I am not OCing right now.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackalphabet;11722404*
> wait, where are you reading that? i updated my CPU-Z validation


You have 4GB (2x2GB) in dual channel configuration, so, RAM running in dual channel: *673.4 x 2 = 1346.8MHz*


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11720581*
> Peiler: Thuban temperature sensor is broken. Either add 13º C to "core" or use the fact that "CPU" is about 5º C cooler, so strive to keep "CPU" below 57º C.


Mine doesn't have a linear measurement when compared to the "cpu" temp. Right around 46C, my core and cpu temps are identical. But, I just use HW monitor to look at both, and it's fine.

Also, for the turbo mode thing, I've noticed it's the cause of high voltage (1.475) for the CPU, and I just prefer to run all cores at 3.75 Ghz, and with C&Q enabled it idles nicely, and voltage is around 1.323. Turbo only caused problems for me on this board. The Asus board, on the other hand, has much better voltage regulation between the two modes.

I also hate the fan control on this thing...to have anything run silently requires ET6...and that program is not on my good list.

EDIT: This ****ing board never ceases to amaze me. I added in a SATA card, and I get a BootMGR missing message. Pull the card, same message. It's not a RAID controller, just a JBOD card. I Start screwing with the SATA cables..no change. I pull all the drives, get a "bood disk failure." It could've been 7...but I doubt it. Given the past issues I've had, I'm quick to jump on this thing. I'll try a repair, but I'm wondering if the F6 BIOS may have been the culprit...it's like every other month I have to reinstall because of stupid crap.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Peiler: Thuban temperature sensor is broken. Either add 13Âº C to "core" or use the fact that "CPU" is about 5Âº C cooler, so strive to keep "CPU" below 57Âº C.



I don't follow... What app are you using to get "CPU" temp? From everything I have read on this board and other boards, it says to use socket temp which I have read is TMPIN1 in HWMonitor. Am I missing something? I have seen other versions of HWMonitor actually have a CPU measurement but I running the latest version, and it looks like that has been removed.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

There is "core" which HWM measures, and "CPU" which shows as TMPIN1 in HWM. TMPIN1 is the "cpu" temp, as Blitz was expaining. Generally people add 13C to whatever the "core" temp reads to come up with the CPU temp, as AMD specs using the CPU temp. The 13C addition is generalized, though, and not all Thubans do this: mine, as previously stated, is not linear, and under load, and in the mid 40's, the CORE and CPU temps match.

As for my other issues; yep, the board corrupted the partition on me, without so much as a boot. Now copying what data I can off it, and beginning the slog of reinstalling. This board is garnering some potent hatred from me. When I'm through with this system, I'm going to shoot, stab, burn, stomp, run over, and otherwise destroy this piece of s**t. Gigabyte...you suck at writing a stable BIOS. I am very tempted to just install the Asus 890GX board, and make this one go in the spare system, since it doesn't need many hard drives connected, and I don't depend on it to actually function properly, or avoid OS re-installation on a weekly basis (slight exaggeration on the latter).


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Holey crap... my TMPIN1 is at 52C after 60 seconds of prime95 with stock cooler and Arctic Silver 5. Add the 13c to that, and that is 3C over maximum temp for this cpu. Stock TIM was about the same.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;11731156*
> There is "core" which HWM measures, and "CPU" which shows as TMPIN1 in HWM. TMPIN1 is the "cpu" temp, as Blitz was expaining. Generally people add 13C to whatever the "core" temp reads to come up with the CPU temp, as AMD specs using the CPU temp. The 13C addition is generalized, though, and not all Thubans do this: mine, as previously stated, is not linear, and under load, and in the mid 40's, the CORE and CPU temps match.
> 
> As for my other issues; yep, the board corrupted the partition on me, without so much as a boot. Now copying what data I can off it, and beginning the slog of reinstalling. This board is garnering some potent hatred from me. When I'm through with this system, I'm going to shoot, stab, burn, stomp, run over, and otherwise destroy this piece of s**t. Gigabyte...you suck at writing a stable BIOS. I am very tempted to just install the Asus 890GX board, and make this one go in the spare system, since it doesn't need many hard drives connected, and I don't depend on it to actually function properly, or avoid OS re-installation on a weekly basis (slight exaggeration on the latter).


Man I feel ya, I am still having ethernet ports going out on me. I'm RMAing my ram and hoping Gigabyte will have the heart to do the same.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorn-Blade;11731709*
> Holey crap... my TMPIN1 is at 52C after 60 seconds of prime95 with stock cooler and Arctic Silver 5. Add the 13c to that, and that is 3C over maximum temp for this cpu. Stock TIM was about the same.


You have it backwards. TMPIN1 minus 13C is what the CORE temp usually reads. Add 13 to the CORE temp, take 13 away from TMPIN1. You're at 52C...I suggest the Cooler Master Hyper 212+.


----------



## soilentblue

i currently have two fans chained together into one 3 pin connector on both sides of my torture rack. is it fine to use one 3 pin connector on the cpu 4 pin and the other on the sys fan2 3 pin? both of my fans will be used to cool my radiators down. i can get a pict when I get home if need be.

fans are gentle typhoon ap-13s and i know each fan uses .034 amps


----------



## jjceo

I recently built a new computer with identical specs to mine except it has a single Sapphire 6870 GPU and no SSD.

The unit used a motherboard rev. 2.1 and came with R4 Bios. This system easily clocked to 4.15 GHz at a voltage of 1.4 VDC. It ran extremely cool and was perhaps a couple degrees cooler at the high end than my computer running a version 2 Motherboard and BIOS R3. The idle temp was 19 degrees C and at 100% for two hours it was at 40 Degrees C with the CPU Temp at 44 degrees C. I was impressed as this was my first experience with R4.

I never updated after R3 as I have never had an issue with performance. It now temps me to update to R4 to see if I can reduce my CPU voltage. Have any of you had a great experience with R4 on a version 2 motherboard that makes it worthwhile to reburn the BIOS to R4?


----------



## jarrax

juz wondering if any1 got any luck pushing beyond 4ghz for my build.

if there is, would you mind sharing the voltages and temps that come along wif it? think mine is running a bit too hot for comfort. btw, i live in singapore, so ambient temps here are mostly in the low to high 30s

btw, here's my validation. would any good person pls help add me in to the club?
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1550128


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarrax*


juz wondering if any1 got any luck pushing beyond 4ghz for my build.

if there is, would you mind sharing the voltages and temps that come along wif it? think mine is running a bit too hot for comfort. btw, i live in singapore, so ambient temps here are mostly in the low to high 30s

btw, here's my validation. would any good person pls help add me in to the club?
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1550128


You have a C3 revision, so, it's not difficult get the 4GHz. What settings are you using?


----------



## jarrax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


You have a C3 revision, so, it's not difficult get the 4GHz. What settings are you using?


by settings, which are the ones that you mean?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarrax;11741198*
> by settings, which are the ones that you mean?


On BIOS, what CPU multiplier are you using?, what CPU voltage, what FSB?. You need disable Cool'n'Quite and C1E


----------



## jarrax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


On BIOS, what CPU multiplier are you using?, what CPU voltage, what FSB?. You need disable Cool'n'Quite and C1E


oh, sorry sorry, didn't realise u asking for this

settings as follows:
CPU voltage: 1.325V
FSB: 240
Multiplier: 16
HT frequency: 2400 (x10)
NB frequency: 2400 (x10)
DRAM:7-8-7-24-33-2T @ 1.65V (though its supposed to be 1.6V rated)

CnQ and C1E disabled


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarrax*


oh, sorry sorry, didn't realise u asking for this

settings as follows:
CPU voltage: 1.325V
FSB: 240
Multiplier: 16
HT frequency: 2400 (x10)
NB frequency: 2400 (x10)
DRAM:7-8-7-24-33-2T @ 1.65V (though its supposed to be 1.6V rated)

CnQ and C1E disabled


You also need rise the HT, NB and NB/CPU voltage for get the rig stable.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

All my the rest of my parts came in today to finish up. I went ahead and tried F6 with raid 0. I lost the raid config on just a reboot, and also powering off.

Off to find out what version to use.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thorn-Blade*


All my the rest of my parts came in today to finish up. I went ahead and tried F6 with raid 0. I lost the raid config on just a reboot, and also powering off.

Off to find out what version to use.


F3 and F4 are the best.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


F3 and F4 are the best.


agreed, i updated to F3 and havent moved since

question..getting a crucial c300 ssd in a few days, any updates in newer bios versions that affect the sata 6gbps controllers? Or just stay put with the F3 version and enjoy the ssd?


----------



## Thorn-Blade

I will give F4 a shot. Wasn't there something specific about backing down in bios revisions?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


agreed, i updated to F3 and havent moved since

question..getting a crucial c300 ssd in a few days, any updates in newer bios versions that affect the sata 6gbps controllers? Or just stay put with the F3 version and enjoy the ssd?


I'm using the F4 since comes out and has give me very good results. Just remember a clean installation on AHCI mode.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am at my parents' house, so not around anywhere as much as usual. Thanks for trying to explain UnexplodedCow, but you have one small typo. "Cores" tend to run 5-8Âº C warmer on almost any AMD CPU as compared to "CPU" temp. Thus, TMPIN1, the "CPU," is actually 5-8Âº C cooler than your CPU temp. If you add 13Âº C to the "Core" sensor on a Thuban, it puts you in that 5-8Âº C range. Thus, if you do not want to be bothered with the adding 13Âº C to "Core," you can subtract 5-8Âº C from the thermal spec (62Âº C), that being 54-57Âº C, and you can keep TMPIN1 below that range. Thus, the pessimist wants to keep TMPIN1 below 54Âº C at all times, whereas the optimist would permit 57Âº C. Subtracting 13Âº C from TMPIN1 gives a non-existent temperature.


----------



## Lymal

First of all i want to say hello to this thread and thank you all, without you knowledge i will not achive my overclock.

One thing is getting me mad ... cannot overclock my ram. The big problem is i'm using 4 sticks and rev 2.0 890FXA-UD5 mobo. With only 2 sticks in DIMMs 3 and 4 i can overclock memory at 1666 7-9-7-24 with 1.65v. With 4 sticks its impossible (at least with my Mushkin Blackline 996782) to go over 1333 o lower the lattencies. If i try 1333 and 7-9-7-24 fails Prime95 Blend test in the first minute. I tried high voltages 1.35v in NB Vid or 1.4 in NB Voltage and didn't help.

Any one in this thread with 4x2GB sticks can go over 1333? Is it a mobo 2.0 revision limitation? rev 2.1 fixed this issue?

If i dont find a solution, i will sell my ram and but 2x4GB GSkill sticks.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lymal*


First of all i want to say hello to this thread and thank you all, without you knowledge i will not achive my overclock.

One thing is getting me mad ... cannot overclock my ram. The big problem is i'm using 4 sticks and rev 2.0 890FXA-UD5 mobo. With only 2 sticks in DIMMs 3 and 4 i can overclock memory at 1666 7-9-7-24 with 1.65v. With 4 sticks its impossible (at least with my Mushkin Blackline 996782) to go over 1333 o lower the lattencies. If i try 1333 and 7-9-7-24 fails Prime95 Blend test in the first minute. I tried high voltages 1.35v in NB Vid or 1.4 in NB Voltage and didn't help.

Any one in this thread with 4x2GB sticks can go over 1333? Is it a mobo 2.0 revision limitation? rev 2.1 fixed this issue?

If i dont find a solution, i will sell my ram and but 2x4GB GSkill sticks.

Thanks in advance.


If you want go above 1866+ with the Rev. 2.0, you need install the RAM in slot 3 and 4.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


I'm using the F4 since comes out and has give me very good results. Just remember a clean installation on AHCI mode.


Ok need some help here.

I configured the raid, and got to Win 7 setup to add drivers. Once drivers were installed off the Gigabyte cd, it get an error and can't continue on. I can create partitions and delete them, but can't install to the new formatted partition.

If I change to AHCI mode, I no longer see the option to create a raid.

I am using two WD Black 1T SATA3 drives.

Bios setup:
Sata: enabled
Sata Type: Raid
Sata port4/5 Type: AS SATA Type
Raid 5: enabled
SATA3.0: enabled

WD drives are pluged into sata3_4 and sata3_5


----------



## Thorn-Blade

duh... dumb mistake on my part... Got past the error...


----------



## jarrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11741534*
> You also need rise the HT, NB and NB/CPU voltage for get the rig stable.


thanks saint19 for the advise. any ideas on how much to raise it by?

issue here is heat. GPU running at constant 50, leaving hot air in casing. i have a fan exhausting air juz right beside it, but it doesn't seem to be working as well as i thought it should.

also, i can't seem to clock my RAMS beyond the 1600 barrier, even though FSB is running stable at 240 in prime for 5 hrs with a load of 59oC max. any good suggestions?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarrax;11744951*
> thanks saint19 for the advise. any ideas on how much to raise it by?
> 
> issue here is heat. GPU running at constant 50, leaving hot air in casing. i have a fan exhausting air juz right beside it, but it doesn't seem to be working as well as i thought it should.
> 
> also, i can't seem to clock my RAMS beyond the 1600 barrier, even though FSB is running stable at 240 in prime for 5 hrs with a load of 59oC max. any good suggestions?


Why you don't try with the core clock (FSB) are stock and only rise the multiplier?


----------



## jarrax

only managed to push to 18x multiplier with base voltages. so now looking at the possible voltage limits to raise to. suggestions?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarrax*


only managed to push to 18x multiplier with base voltages. so now looking at the possible voltage limits to raise to. suggestions?


Do you tested the stability? Start to rise the voltage in little steps, the voltage limit depends of your temps and cooling system.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarrax*


juz wondering if any1 got any luck pushing beyond 4ghz for my build.

if there is, would you mind sharing the voltages and temps that come along wif it? think mine is running a bit too hot for comfort. btw, i live in singapore, so ambient temps here are mostly in the low to high 30s

btw, here's my validation. would any good person pls help add me in to the club?
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1550128


Haven't tried pushing past 4GHz, my case doesn't get enough airflow for adequate cooling and I'm not ready to pay for water cooling yet.

Regarding the validation list:

In the paragraph above the "Members Profile: Validated" spreadsheet there is a link that says: "this link to the input form."

It will direct you to this URL: http://spreadsheets.google.com/viewf...s2N3c6MQ#gid=0

This URL is the home of the input form. Fill in the blanks on the input form and click "Submit" at the end to be added to the spread sheet.

Please refer to P1 for more information about spreadsheet administration.

~fidof650


----------



## jarrax

thanks bro fidof650 for the linking, updated my profiles into the google spreadsheet.

is it possible to edit if i manage to run a better setup? how should i go about doing it?


----------



## jarrax

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Do you tested the stability? Start to rise the voltage in little steps, the voltage limit depends of your temps and cooling system.


good ideas on the temps to keep it under? i'm presently using HWMonitor to monitor temps, but still feel tt its a bit inadequate.

normally would let it run prime 95 for as long as possible to check for stability,. anything from 4 hrs and above while watching the temp ranges


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarrax*


thanks bro fidof650 for the linking, updated my profiles into the google spreadsheet.

is it possible to edit if i manage to run a better setup? how should i go about doing it?


Add your information the same way you just did. When I see that a member has posted twice for the same machine I delete the older post and keep the updated one. I audit the spread sheet fairly frequently so it can remain up-to-date.

P1 updated:
New Members Added
Content Updated
Spreadsheets Audited
~fidof650


----------



## jarrax

thanks for the heads up on the notice. will update when i redo the air cooling and again when i move to wc.

noticed tt you are running 3.7GHz. what are the temps for your setup?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I am at my parents' house, so not around anywhere as much as usual. Thanks for trying to explain UnexplodedCow, but you have one small typo. "Cores" tend to run 5-8Âº C warmer on almost any AMD CPU as compared to "CPU" temp. Thus, TMPIN1, the "CPU," is actually 5-8Âº C cooler than your CPU temp. If you add 13Âº C to the "Core" sensor on a Thuban, it puts you in that 5-8Âº C range. Thus, if you do not want to be bothered with the adding 13Âº C to "Core," you can subtract 5-8Âº C from the thermal spec (62Âº C), that being 54-57Âº C, and you can keep TMPIN1 below that range. Thus, the pessimist wants to keep TMPIN1 below 54Âº C at all times, whereas the optimist would permit 57Âº C. Subtracting 13Âº C from TMPIN1 gives a non-existent temperature.


If I add 13C to my "core" while idle, it breaks even with the CPU temp for my CPU. If under load, the two sensors read the same, so adding 5-8C would put me at 51-54C. If I add 13C to Core temp to compensate, I'd wind up with 59C for the actual. Considering my room is usually around 20C, internal case temp is 21C, and I have two fans on a hyper 212+, I doubt I'm getting that high with my OC. If I crank both fans up, the temps drop into the high 30's C, according to both sensors, which stay matched while under load. I also keep the infrared thermometer handy, and have it measure off the side of the IHS, which is usually in the high 30's to low 40's C when under load with lower fan speed. I'm learning to distrust thermal sensors more than ever with this board. But, at least between the two UD5s I've had, they both were consistent.

I guess my main point is that each CPU seems to measure differently. I also wonder if I'm the only one who has match CPU and Core temps in HWM without any adjustments. One of the two is incorrect.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would tend to discredit the "Core" sensor. Both Thuban and Brisbane (among others) have had faulty sensors. Just go with the TMPIN1 + 5-8Âº C and call it quits. As to the Hyper212+ hitting 59Âº C at load with 3.71 GHz, I would believe that absolutely. Silence and efficiency do not always run hand-in-hand.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

What benching software should I be testing with once I start messing with the memory timings?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I would tend to discredit the "Core" sensor. Both Thuban and Brisbane (among others) have had faulty sensors. Just go with the TMPIN1 + 5-8Âº C and call it quits. As to the Hyper212+ hitting 59Âº C at load with 3.71 GHz, I would believe that absolutely. Silence and efficiency do not always run hand-in-hand.



With 2 fans running 1800 rpm, which is faster than the 1400 rpm of a stock hyper 212, I would think that will push a considerable amount of air with good pressure.

Also, I have had the CPU temp in HWM hit 67C before, not Core, with an older heatsink, and the system did not shut down, or even throttle the processor. I would think it would do something by then, but nothing happened.
I would also call it quits if I didn't have contradicting info from the thermometer (that I have tested to be accurate by using known temps, and vs. other known good thermometers). It also has not changed the temp on the Hyper one bit by having the side off the case, with a 12" fan blowing on everything.

3.75 Ghz with 1.323 volts. What's also interesting is the CPU runs cooler, according to HWM, than with 1.475 volts and 3 cores running 3.6 Ghz. I would love to see someone come out with a thin metal pad that was sensitive enough to heat to noticeably change its resistance, to provide a more accurate IHS temp at least, which would be more indicative of die temp.

How much hotter do you think a CPU die itself would be if the IHS measures 38C? I highly doubt the actual die is 20C hotter







. Just some food for thought.


----------



## giganews35

Hello everyone! 
I'm new to this forum, I just put my system together and overclocked cpu using only multiplier for now to 3.8GHz, running prime95 to load test for stability I use SpeedFan to watch my temps. Can anyone tell me what Temp 1,2,3 are? I'm guessing Case,CPU,NB?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giganews35;11753573*
> Hello everyone!
> I'm new to this forum, I just put my system together and overclocked cpu using only multiplier for now to 3.8GHz, running prime95 to load test for stability I use SpeedFan to watch my temps. Can anyone tell me what Temp 1,2,3 are? I'm guessing Case,CPU,NB?


Refer to 1st page.
Quote:


> Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
> A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarrax;11752216*
> thanks for the heads up on the notice. will update when i redo the air cooling and again when i move to wc.
> 
> noticed tt you are running 3.7GHz. what are the temps for your setup?


I'm not at home to check them and it's been a while since I did so I can't recall off hand exactly.

I can tell you this much though, it's running on stock HSF in a case with poor airflow and the temps are low while playing BFBC2 on Very High settings or CS:S maxed out.

Stable all day and plenty of power on tap!

I can TAB in and out of Game without crashing and run apps in the background. I like to web-serf or play with images in the Adobe Suite between rounds.

Also, with it set to 3.7GHz I can run cool and quiet, which I like on my 24/7 rig.

It's been rock solid since inception and I wouldn't change a thing.

~fidof650


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;11753142*
> How much hotter do you think a CPU die itself would be if the IHS measures 38C? I highly doubt the actual die is 20C hotter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just some food for thought.


Possibly. To be honest, I have never tried. Let me ask you this: can you test the temperature of the base of the cooler compared to the tips of the heat pipes?


----------



## jca73

Hey Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 owners,

I been an owner for 1 month now.Love these Motherbroad finally retired my DFi N4 ultra.
My question is which are the benfits of F4 bios compared to F5?
I notice F6 come out anyone can shade some light on that revision of bios?


----------



## Thorn-Blade

If you are doing raid, stay away from F5 and F6.


----------



## christoph

F6 is good with array setups

but not the F5

I tried F6 with my array and everything worked good


----------



## jarrax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;11754144*
> I'm not at home to check them and it's been a while since I did so I can't recall off hand exactly.
> 
> I can tell you this much though, it's running on stock HSF in a case with poor airflow and the temps are low while playing BFBC2 on Very High settings or CS:S maxed out.
> 
> Stable all day and plenty of power on tap!
> 
> I can TAB in and out of Game without crashing and run apps in the background. I like to web-serf or play with images in the Adobe Suite between rounds.
> 
> Also, with it set to 3.7GHz I can run cool and quiet, which I like on my 24/7 rig.
> 
> It's been rock solid since inception and I wouldn't change a thing.
> 
> ~fidof650


better than mine, which is running hot (at least to me).....

time to redo my hsf again


----------



## Blostorm

What is the best BIOS for the 2.1 revision ? I just RMA'd my 2.0 and they sent me a 2.1 with the F4 bios and I can't even boot at my old settings... :S


----------



## Thorn-Blade

I have the 2.1 rev board, and I am running F4. I had the same issues with F6 Blitz6804 saw when he moved from F4 to F5 with the raid disappearing.


----------



## Blitz6804

Thorn-blade: That happened with F3 to F5. I skipped F4 entirely.


----------



## Blostorm

So what bios you guys recommand ? I can't even boot at my 100% stable settings


----------



## Blitz6804

I still use F3. Some people prefer F4, but I never bothered trying it. Avoid F6 if you need a half multiplier, and avoid F5 if you wish to have a system that actually works.


----------



## Blostorm

Changed back to F3 and was able to boot. Fail bios are fail.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11754312*
> Possibly. To be honest, I have never tried. Let me ask you this: can you test the temperature of the base of the cooler compared to the tips of the heat pipes?


The closest I will get it where the heatpipe goes into the baseplate, which will be extremely close to the temp of what's contacting the IHS, I would wager within 1C or less.

I just measured the base, 35.1C and the tips are 26.6C. HWM is reporting CPU temp of 28C, Core reads 18C. Ambient reads 25C.

Edit: Just tried it with Prime running on all core, max heat. I had a blip of 41C, otherwise it was 38.8. CPU temp read as 46, and the Core temp read very low this time, at 37. I swapped in the new video card, and added an optical drive...go figure. Ambient was the same as before. Heatpipe tips went up to 26.1C.

That little test would conclude that both sensors are off on the board, although the CPU temp, at least for me, reads at least 2C too high, but is otherwise a good temp to go by for playing safe. Also, that lets me know my system runs relatively cool for air, the heatsink itself is efficient, has decent contact.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11763108*
> Thorn-blade: That happened with F3 to F5. I skipped F4 entirely.


My mistake... from 3 to 5... You and I had the same raid problems with you moving to 5, and me using 6. I moved back to 4, and raid0 works fine now.


----------



## decimator

Hey, guys, what's the highest FSB you guys have achieved on the UD5? My board doesn't seem to like anything much higher than 260 MHz...Running F4 BIOS.


----------



## coredata

Please add me to the club!
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1555370

'Love this board, its been a lot of fun.

I've tried all the bios's up to F5, and F3 seems to be the best for me (but running F2 because I was troubleshooting a problem and havent bothered to upgrade back up to F3).

Only issue I have is that when I have two GV R587UD-1GD video cards (5870) in crossfire plugged in, the primary card seems to overheat and the bios screen will go black and not snap out of it. Likewise if Windows takes a while to load, if something needs to time out for some reason during loading windows, it will go black and not snap out. 99% of the time I am OK. It is a bit of a pain in the buttocks when I want to play in the BIOS because depending on room temp I may be able to stay in BIOS for 30 seconds before it goes black or fifteen minutes, total crapshoot. 'Have to take the second 5870 out, then the problem goes away. I understand this only applies to that specific non reference gigabyte video card (which is running the latest FW).

'Hope everyone had Happy Holidays!!


----------



## Blitz6804

decimate: Make sure spread spectrum is off. Once I turned mine off, I could go past 255 up to 275-280 for regular use, 300 or so for suicide use. (So far.)

coredata: Fill out the form to join.


----------



## decimator

Blitz, spread spectrum is already off. Is there some voltage setting I should be raising maybe? Right now everything but vcore and CPU-NB VID is at default. I've got 4 GHz stable with 3 GHz NB, but would like to get a higher FSB because 2000 MHz is too much for my RAM and the dividers are spaced too far apart for anything not too much lower at 250 FSB.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decimate;11773975*
> Hey, guys, what's the highest FSB you guys have achieved on the UD5? My board doesn't seem to like anything much higher than 260 MHz...Running F4 BIOS.


I can do 300MHz and I tried more, but my RAM is my limit since it's a 1600, the highest that I have seen is 446MHz


----------



## Trito

Hei guys so I have low end MB right now and I'm thinking about getting high end board like UD5/UD7 and get 2nd GTX 460(SLI hack) or go red.
1. which one is better and why?
2. why UD7 is cheaper? (In Latvia it's 40$ cheaper)


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trito;11779690*
> Hei guys so I have low end MB right now and I'm thinking about getting high end board like UD5/UD7 and get 2nd GTX 460(SLI hack) or go red.
> 1. which one is better and why?
> 2. why UD7 is cheaper? (In Latvia it's 40$ cheaper)


1- Both UD5 and UD7 are very good, the difference is that UD7 is E-ATX, so, you need a very big case to install it. Support 4-Ways Crossfire (SLI hack)
2- Like I say up, the UD7 can't be more cheap since is more big, comes with more PCI-E lines and comes with water block pre-installed in the NB for LC

Regarding the 2nd GTX 460, if you want use SLI in UD5 or UD7, you will need use hack SLI, since officially this mobos only support Crossfire. See *here* for details about hack SLI.


----------



## Trito

Well in Latvia UD5 costs 118Ls (215USD) but UD7 costs 90Ls (164USD) why? 
And can my case (Antec 902) fit this UD7 MB as it has 8 slots?
And I know I'll need SLI hack if I chose to stay green.


----------



## raimon15

i just got a rev 2.1 ud5 motherboard and was wondering if all my components are compatible here are the specs

GA-890FXA-UD5 motherboard
gigabyte GTX460 overclock graphic card
2X2GB DDR3 RAM CORSAIR CMP4GX3M2A1600C9
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition cpu
850watt AITO psu
500GB Seagate SATA HDD
CoolerMaster V8 CPU Cooler

Currently i am having problems with the graphics card the fans are on but the screene says no siginal.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Bonehead question:

Is the cable between the monitor and graphics card installed? The CPU is compatible, the RAM can be checked on Gigabyte's page for the 2.1 revision. I have not heard of your PSU brand, although the video card should be compatible. It may, however, be defective.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Trito*


Well in Latvia UD5 costs 118Ls (215USD) but UD7 costs 90Ls (164USD) why? 
And can my case (Antec 902) fit this UD7 MB as it has 8 slots?
And I know I'll need SLI hack if I chose to stay green.


The Antec 902 can't fit the UD7, that case can only handle mini-ATX, micro-ATX and ATX mobos.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raimon15*


i just got a rev 2.1 ud5 motherboard and was wondering if all my components are compatible here are the specs

GA-890FXA-UD5 motherboard
gigabyte GTX460 overclock graphic card
2X2GB DDR3 RAM CORSAIR CMP4GX3M2A1600C9
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition cpu
850watt AITO psu
500GB Seagate SATA HDD
CoolerMaster V8 CPU Cooler

Currently i am having problems with the graphics card the fans are on but the screene says no siginal.


Check if you connect the two PCI-E power cord to the GPU. Can you post the link of the PSU?

btw, the V8 isn't the best cooler.


----------



## MiiX

I love my 890FXA-UD5 <3 Please add me!

hey, im new!


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX;11783065*
> I love my 890FXA-UD5 <3 Please add me!
> 
> hey, im new!


Hi and welcome to OCN, nice rig


----------



## raimon15

does the motherboard have one of those beep alarms on it


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raimon15;11786381*
> does the motherboard have one of those beep alarms on it


The mobo has the option in the BIOS, but you need buy the speaker and installed in the mobo to use that alarm.


----------



## raimon15

The PSU brand was not AITO sorry its a Titan 850watt it was brought in a shop not off the net i am sorry as i cannot find a link


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11786262*
> Hi and welcome to OCN, nice rig


Thanks, its my first build!








And yeah, the OCN forums are awsome, im probably staying for a loooong time!


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *raimon15*


The PSU brand was not AITO sorry its a Titan 850watt it was brought in a shop not off the net i am sorry as i cannot find a link


If I were you, I'd change that PSU before get problems. The brand don't sounds good to me, so, go better with Corsair, Seasonic, Antec, PC POwer and Cooling or XFX.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

hey guys, need a few opinions..

ordering an ssd today or tomororw, and was leaning towards the 128gb crucial c300 ssd since our board has sata 6gbps ports..the only other one i would consider is a 120gb sandforce drive...

the c300 has faster reads, but the sandforce has faster writes...

drive will be used as a system drive with a game or 2 on it...going to use one of my spinpoints as a data drive

what do you guys think?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


hey guys, need a few opinions..

ordering an ssd today or tomororw, and was leaning towards the 128gb crucial c300 ssd since our board has sata 6gbps ports..the only other one i would consider is a 120gb sandforce drive...

the c300 has faster reads, but the sandforce has faster writes...

drive will be used as a system drive with a game or 2 on it...going to use one of my spinpoints as a data drive

what do you guys think?


C300, you usually read and not write and the important in the SSD is the 4K numbers, were the C300 is killer even in SATS 3Gb/s agains the Sandforce SSD.

Take a look of this thread: http://www.overclock.net/ssd/754763-...rk-thread.html

Check the table and you can see the C300 on the head in not RAID array, even beating the Vertex 2 in RAID 0.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


C300, you usually read and not write and the important in the SSD is the 4K numbers, were the C300 is killer even in SATS 3Gb/s agains the Sandforce SSD.

Take a look of this thread: http://www.overclock.net/ssd/754763-...rk-thread.html

Check the table and you can see the C300 on the head in not RAID array, even beating the Vertex 2 in RAID 0.


thats what i was leaning towards anyway..thanks saint!!


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage*


thats what i was leaning towards anyway..thanks saint!!










Your welcome, and don't forget the clean installation on AHCI mode.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Your welcome, and don't forget the clean installation on AHCI mode.










yup, all set to do a fresh install and gonna set AHCI in the bios beforehand...

cant wait for this thing to get here...im holding off playing a bunch of games i got for Christmas because i dont want to install them then have to redo it again when i get the ssd lol


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage;11790656*
> yup, all set to do a fresh install and gonna set AHCI in the bios beforehand...
> 
> cant wait for this thing to get here...im holding off playing a bunch of games i got for Christmas because i dont want to install them then have to redo it again when i get the ssd lol


You will enjoy that SSD, mine is rated at 7.9 on WEI and it's only 64GB







and is one of the 1st 64GB SSD on the table in the link.


----------



## playah

Anybody know if the UD7 fits in Azza Solano 1000


----------



## jca73

Thanks for those who replied in concerning about the Bios F5 and F6.I decided to go F4
in which now my TMPIN1,TMPIN2 and TMPIN3 are able to see temps now in AMD Overdrive.F5 were giving me a negative number on my TMPIN readings.


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

Just installed a Rev 2.0 board, everything running fine at stock, but before I OC thought I'd try and get benefit of some experience on following two points:

1. BIOS - board came with F2, is there a consensus on best version as I don't want to flash unless I have?
2. Temp - mobo temp seems very high, 40-43 under normal use. My old 790 board ran at 30 (3.9 OC & 2600 on the NB) and only hit 40 after several hours gaming. I have changed my setup, but airflow seems OK. Are higher temps a known issue and how high is safe?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *playah*


Anybody know if the UD7 fits in Azza Solano 1000


Hi, this are the cases that support the UD7:

Lian-LI PC-80
Lian-LI PC-80R
Thermaltake Armor+ VH6000BWS
Thermaltake Armor+ VH6000SWA
Thermaltake Armor+ VH600LBWS
Mountain Mods Ascension *7
HEC 98 R9BB
Cooler Master HAF-X

You can see that in the Gigabyte's web page. *Here*

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Steely_Probiscis*


Just installed a Rev 2.0 board, everything running fine at stock, but before I OC thought I'd try and get benefit of some experience on following two points:

1. BIOS - board came with F2, is there a consensus on best version as I don't want to flash unless I have?
2. Temp - mobo temp seems very high, 40-43 under normal use. My old 790 board ran at 30 (3.9 OC & 2600 on the NB) and only hit 40 after several hours gaming. I have changed my setup, but airflow seems OK. Are higher temps a known issue and how high is safe?


1- The best BIOS for overclock are F3 and F4, more if you want use RAID.
2- The temps are normal, the NB can hit the 80ÂºC according to Gigabyte.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I'm really starting to hate this motherboard in terms of overclocking. It must hate my 1090T.

Every single time I go past 3.9GHz (which already requires 1.475v, which doesn't make any sense when I can get 3.8 at 1.4v), I get BSOD's. I've tried raising nearly every voltage to just before red and even tried my 1090T at 1.5v for 4.0ghz but I still get a BSOD. Think I just got a dud board?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER;11804658*
> I'm really starting to hate this motherboard in terms of overclocking. It must hate my 1090T.
> 
> Every single time I go past 3.9GHz (which already requires 1.475v, which doesn't make any sense when I can get 3.8 at 1.4v), I get BSOD's. I've tried raising nearly every voltage to just before red and even tried my 1090T at 1.5v for 4.0ghz but I still get a BSOD. Think I just got a dud board?


What BIOS are you using?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11804829*
> What BIOS are you using?


I've tried 1-4, currently on F4.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER;11804896*
> I've tried 1-4, currently on F4.


What settings do you have? I have the F4 and 3.8GHz stable with 1.325V on BIOS


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11805798*
> What settings do you have? I have the F4 and 3.8GHz stable with 1.325V on BIOS


I'm at 200x19 with 1.4v, 2800mhz NB with 1.3v. I don't understand why I need so much voltage.

Sent from my Htc Incredible using Tapatalk


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER;11805968*
> I'm at 200x19 with 1.4v, 2800mhz NB with 1.3v. I don't understand why I need so much voltage.
> 
> Sent from my Htc Incredible using Tapatalk


I can see a possible problem, you also need change the CPU/NB voltage. I don't remember the order, but I'm using 1.15V and 1.375V with [email protected] I'm not sure but I think that 1.375V goes on CPU/NB.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11805993*
> I can see a possible problem, you also need change the CPU/NB voltage.


I meant my CPU/NB is at 1.3v.

Sent from my Htc Incredible using Tapatalk


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER;11806060*
> I meant my CPU/NB is at 1.3v.
> 
> Sent from my Htc Incredible using Tapatalk


You need change both, NB and NB/CPU. I don't remember the order, but I'm using 1.15V and 1.375V with [email protected], I think that 1.375V goes on CPU/NB.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

I've had the NB up to 1.23v before with 1.35v CPU/NB.

Sent from my Htc Incredible using Tapatalk


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER;11806159*
> I've had the NB up to 1.23v before with 1.35v CPU/NB.
> 
> Sent from my Htc Incredible using Tapatalk


You need play with both until get it stable. Even with the same mobo and CPU we won't have the same results.


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11803448*
> Hi, this are the cases that support the UD7:
> 
> 1- The best BIOS for overclock are F3 and F4, more if you want use RAID.
> 2- The temps are normal, the NB can hit the 80ºC according to Gigabyte.


Thanks saint19. I'll update on how the oc goes.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHUNKYBOWSER;11806159*
> I've had the NB up to 1.23v before with 1.35v CPU/NB.
> 
> Sent from my Htc Incredible using Tapatalk


I forgot something basic, Do you disable Coo'n'Quite, C1E and Turbo core right?


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11806463*
> I forgot something basic, Do you disable Coo'n'Quite, C1E and Turbo core right?


Yup.


----------



## christoph

CHUNKYBOWSER;

why don't you try with HT, like 240...

what's the speed of the RAM?


----------



## decimator

You don't need to touch NB voltage...Especially on air. Going over 1.2 NB voltage on air isn't recommended. That's advice from the great overclocking guru el gappo. You only really need to touch CPU-NB VID to get your NB frequency up. I'm at 3000MHz with 1.325 CPU-NB VID and default NB voltage. You can go over 1.4 volts for CPU-NB VID, but never go over what you have your vcore set at.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

My RAM is at 1600mhz but I've tried 1333 with no luck.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

Just requested an RMA for the motherboard again







. My ram has already been shipped out.

We'll see if anything improves. The ram is just being replaced with the same stuff and I can't see them 'fixing' the motherboard. Can't play Starcraft2, so I'm too happy right now. cheers


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decimate;11808464*
> You don't need to touch NB voltage...Especially on air. Going over 1.2 NB voltage on air isn't recommended. That's advice from the great overclocking guru el gappo. You only really need to touch CPU-NB VID to get your NB frequency up. I'm at 3000MHz with 1.325 CPU-NB VID and default NB voltage. *You can go over 1.4 volts for CPU-NB VID, but never go over what you have your vcore set at.*


I have my Vcore to 1.325V and CPU-NB VID to 1.375V, is that a problem? Until now has run fine for more that a month and pass nine (9) hours of y-cruncher and one (1) hour of LinX.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

hey guys, my c300 ssd gets here today







really excited...

question (may be a dumb one) I am on the F3 bios..has there been any updates in the newer bioses that update anything with the sata3 controller? Or is there any firmware updates for the board that i should download before i install the ssd? Thanks.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage;11815881*
> hey guys, my c300 ssd gets here today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really excited...
> 
> question (may be a dumb one) I am on the F3 bios..has there been any updates in the newer bioses that update anything with the sata3 controller? Or is there any firmware updates for the board that i should download before i install the ssd? Thanks.


F3 and F4 are the most stable and are getting very good results. You don't need any driver to install the SSD since Win 7 recognize the drive without problems and install the proper driver.

Regarding the firmware, what model do you bought? CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1CCA or CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1.


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11815920*
> F3 and F4 are the most stable and are getting very good results. You don't need any driver to install the SSD since Win 7 recognize the drive without problems and install the proper driver.
> 
> Regarding the firmware, what model do you bought? CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1CCA or CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1.


i got the 128gb model, the one without the data transfer kit..i can check on the model if you want later...

im assuming it will come with the 0002 firmware, and ive been reading about stuttering issues with the 0006 firmware? what are you running?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage;11815931*
> i got the 128gb model, the one without the data transfer kit..i can check on the model if you want later...
> 
> im assuming it will come with the 0002 firmware, and ive been reading about stuttering issues with the 0006 firmware? what are you running?


You can check the firmware version in the back side of the SSD. Regarding the update, i'm still running the 0002, Why?, if something go wrong in the update and I need RMA the SSD, I will lost my rig for at least one month since I'm not from the USA.

maximus20895 update to 0006 firmware version without problems, you can see the results here. http://www.overclock.net/ssd/754763-ssd-benchmark-thread-92.html#post11778173 I think that you can update, since the SSD is new and doesn't have the OS yet is a good idea.


----------



## decimator

Just passed 500 runs of LinX on my new settings, but my computer restarted while running Prime95 during the 15th hour. THE 15TH HOUR



































.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decimate;11816734*
> Just passed 500 runs of LinX on my new settings, but my computer restarted while running Prime95 during the 15th hour. THE 15TH HOUR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Now that's just disappointing. It is the 15th hour after all so what do you plan on doing? Keep the settings and hope they are good for your everyday use or do you plan on tweaking again?


----------



## saiyanzzrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decimate;11816734*
> Just passed 500 runs of LinX on my new settings, but my computer restarted while running Prime95 during the 15th hour. THE 15TH HOUR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


500 runs and 15 hours of prime? isnt that overkill a bit? In all my systems i have done overnight (8 hours) prime 95 and 25 linx runs and havent had a single stability issue ever


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *decimate;11816734*
> Just passed 500 runs of LinX on my new settings, but my computer restarted while running Prime95 during the 15th hour. THE 15TH HOUR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Stop at 14th hour and a half







....was a joke


----------



## Blitz6804

Proving how useless LinX is...

saiyanzzrage: No, it is not. I run dual Prime95 and Kombustor (plus Fluidmark after I got a PhysX card) for 24 hours to call a system stable. The Kombustor/Fluidmark are made to stress the NB, not the GPUs, as I run them only 640x480 0xAA.


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Has anybody here raises either of their PLL voltages to be more stable?


----------



## decimator

Yeah, I'm tweaking it some more. I'm not happy unless my system is 24 hours Prime blend stable.


----------



## cstrw01

Corsair 700D|Corsair HX1000W|Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7|AMD Phenom II X6 1090T @4.1Ghz|Crucial Ballistix 8GB PC12800 [email protected]|4xSapphire5770(1xFlex,3x100283-3L)@Core 875Mhz, Shader 1275Mhz|Intel X25-V 40GB SSD|WD CB 1TB 6.0GBs|Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.0GBs|LiteOn 22x DVD


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cstrw01*


Corsair 700D|Corsair HX1000W|Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7|AMD Phenom II X6 1090T @4.1Ghz|Crucial Ballistix 8GB PC12800 [email protected]|4xSapphire5770(1xFlex,3x100283-3L)@Core 875Mhz, Shader 1275Mhz|Intel X25-V 40GB SSD|WD CB 1TB 6.0GBs|Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.0GBs|LiteOn 22x DVD


Soooooooo how do you like your new toy?


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

Spreadsheets Audited / Corrected
~fidof650


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyanzzrage;11817011*
> 500 runs and 15 hours of prime? isnt that overkill a bit? In all my systems i have done overnight (8 hours) prime 95 and 25 linx runs and havent had a single stability issue ever


Hi man. Here are the Crucial support words about the firmware update.
Quote:


> Hi German,
> 
> Thanks for contacting us. The 0006 firmware update is considered a "non-destructive" so it shouldn't affect the data on the drive. It still important to note that having a backup is still a good idea in case something goes wrong.
> 
> There is no fallback procedure once the drive has been flashed with the 0006 firmware. Please be aware that the 0006 firmware address some issues that are specific only to computers that have the H55, P55, and M55 chipsets. Other machines will see no benefit from the firmware upgrade, and others have even reported a slight decrease in performance, so consider this in your decision.


----------



## Baio73

Hi everybody... missed that forum for a while... to much work!








Here is my question: can anyone tell me if with the latest F5 beta BIOS for UD7 the CNQ will function regularly at 20x200?
That is my daily OC, but with F4 release I can't make the CNQ work...
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## decimator

My new 24/7 overclock.



Can the Google spreadsheet be edited for me with these new settings?

BIOS F4
CPU frequency - 4016 MHz
FSB - 251
CPU multi - 16
Vcore - 1.45
CPU-NB VID - 1.35
NB frequency - 3012 MHz
RAM - G.Skill 4G 6-8-6-20-1T
DRAM voltage - 1.65
NB voltage - stock
Cooling - Venomous X + Delta 150CFM fan
OS - Windows 7 Pro 64-bit
Stability - 24 hours Prime blend stable + 500 runs of LinX


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baio73;11833100*
> Hi everybody... missed that forum for a while... to much work!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my question: can anyone tell me if with the latest F5 beta BIOS for UD7 the CNQ will function regularly at 20x200?
> That is my daily OC, but with F4 release I can't make the CNQ work...
> Ciao!
> Baio


ok, and how can you do that?

isn't C&Q disable once you start OCing?

but perhaps, making sure windows ?? power state's in BALANCED


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;11838988*
> ok, and how can you do that?
> 
> isn't C&Q disable once you start OCing?


Well, that's not authomatic. With AMD CPUs it depends on the mobo... for example, with the UD7 the CNQ works with a low OC (something like 18x20=3600... not completely sure, it's a long time ago...), but @20x200 it does not work for sure.
I was asing because I've read the F5 release notes and they talk about improvement in CNQ...
Quote:


> but perhaps, making sure windows ?? power state's in BALANCED


I'm running Windows Seven Home Premium 64bit, but that setting is ok...
Ciao!
Baio


----------



## Thorn-Blade

That is odd.. I was playing with Cool N Quite for two days trying to deside if I wanted to leave it enabled or not @ 4 GHz.

F4
x16
250

It appears to be working as designed for me.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorn-Blade;11840444*
> That is odd.. I was playing with Cool N Quite for two days trying to deside if I wanted to leave it enabled or not @ 4 GHz.
> 
> F4
> x16
> 250
> 
> It appears to be working as designed for me.


My opinion is CNQ works or not depending on CPU's multiplier... when you raise it beyond a certain value, CNQ stops working... I was wondering if F5 beta works better as I read it brings some improvement in CNQ and it has some issue with multipliers too...
Can you try to set your OC to 20x200 and see if it still works?
And - latest - what did you decided, you keep CNQ on or off?
Ciao!


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe that over 19x, the CnQ feature stops working on all motherboards, not just this one. If you want to use 20x and CnQ, you would need to use something like K10Stat.


----------



## Baio73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11841917*
> I believe that over 19x, the CnQ feature stops working on all motherboards, not just this one. If you want to use 20x and CnQ, you would need to use something like K10Stat.


That could be, as I've never reached 4GHz with previous CPUs...
By the way, I don't want to loose my mind with K10stat, I think I'll try to make 4GHz with some lower multiplier, even if I don't like very much raising he FSB.
Ciao!
Baio

EDIT: Ok, tried 16x250 and works fine with CNQ enabled... now I'm gonna see if RAM works well too as is running in little OC @833x2.


----------



## Blitz6804

223x18 would do it. I personally used 250x16, but now use 276x14.5. To get DDR3-1600, you need to use a DDR3-1333 divider with your HTT up to 240, so maybe try 243x16.5 (4010 MHz, DDR3-1620) When I get home, I think I am going to make another push trying to get the 8 GB up to DDR3-1600 like it should be.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11842500*
> 223x18 would do it. I personally used 250x16, but now use 276x14.5. To get DDR3-1600, you need to use a DDR3-1333 divider with your HTT up to 240, so maybe try 243x16.5 (4010 MHz, DDR3-1620) When I get home, I think I am going to make another push trying to get the 8 GB up to DDR3-1600 like it should be.


8 GB at 1600??

I got 8 GB at 1600 with even 2 different 2x2 kits.

why there's a problem?


----------



## Thedizershow

Looking forward to it


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but what are the safe max voltages for this board when overclocking? I know CPU NB voltages and CPU VID will change with the chip, as will the RAM Voltage, But what about the NB and the CPU NB? Also from what I gather you don't want to mess with the HT Voltage due to it being easy to mess up? Ive done a lot of searching but people seem to just say NB voltage when they are talking about either. Thank you for the help.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr;11847445*
> Not sure if this is the correct place to ask, but what are the safe max voltages for this board when overclocking? I know CPU NB voltages and CPU VID will change with the chip, as will the RAM Voltage, But what about the NB and the CPU NB? Also from what I gather you don't want to mess with the HT Voltage due to it being easy to mess up? Ive done a lot of searching but people seem to just say NB voltage when they are talking about either. Thank you for the help.


nop

when we say NB is always about the CPU-NB and not the NB of the MOBO.

in some cases (especial cases) we refer exactly to something else, like motherboard NB or HTT voltage

so if you see NB voltage, is always about the CPU-NB

like I said, those are especial cases as most of the time is not necessary to add voltage to the motherboard NB or HTT voltage


----------



## cstrw01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thorn-Blade;11822218*
> Soooooooo how do you like your new toy?


Given that I replaced a failed MSI 890FXA with the UD7, I am about as pleased as could be. I will be "as pleased as could be" when my two 6950s arrive Monday...well as soon as I install the 6970 bios...


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


8 GB at 1600??
I got 8 GB at 1600 with even 2 different 2x2 kits.
why there's a problem?


Mine refuses to do it. DDR3-1470 is as high as I have stably gotten so far.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11863263*
> Mine refuses to do it. DDR3-1470 is as high as I have stably gotten so far.


you added voltage to CPU-NB right?

what are your timings?? all of them...


----------



## Blitz6804

Tried up to 1.400 V so far, no dice. Timings are 7-8-8-23-1T-31, the rated timings for that speed.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11865908*
> Tried up to 1.400 V so far, no dice. Timings are 7-8-8-23-1T-31, the rated timings for that speed.


what about the subtimings?

I always set those manually, maybe that's the difference


----------



## Blitz6804

I have set them manually, and loosened them past spec as well. I have not seen an improvement.


----------



## christoph

post a screen shot of the timings


----------



## saint19

I suggest, that if you want go over 1600MHz and you get the Rev. 2.0 mobo, try that in the 3rd and 4th RAM slot. Works for me do it 2000MHz with my current RAM.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I'm currently running 250x15 on the CPU, with RAM running 1666 in all 4 DIMMs, 1.65 volts, 8-8-8-24 1T 31 timings, and have had zero issues with this myself in the new board and RAM. I've considered going higher, but haven't tried. I'm not using crazy, low latency RAM, although I have considered trying 7-8-7-24 timings, as the old RAM would do that pretty well before it went. But, I like having the 1T timing







with all 8 gigs.

My CPUNB is 1.15, instead of 1.1 (not going 1.2 just yet), and board revision is 2.0. Maybe I have a pretty good one, and a good mem controller on the CPU.


----------



## christoph

like I said, I have 8 gb at 1600 with 2 2x2 GB unmatched kits, and have no problems at all

maybe you're missing something...

get the screen shot so we can take a look at it


----------



## pali

Hey everyone!

(Sorry this probably has been covered a bunch here but I cant seem to find it in all these pages) So I got my UD5 from microcenter yedterday. I have an MSI n480 GTX with a 2nd one in the mail from newegg (going to use SLI hack). I used an 8800gtx ko in the top slot (approx same size) with my 480 in the bottom slot just to see how much room I have to work with when my 2nd 480 arrives. I see that others have similar sized cards so Im wondering, do you guys use them with a small gap? Are people buying aftermarket coolers so they have more room to breathe? It seems that if I run it with the 480s, the top cards fan will get suffocated and fry. Any help would be immensely appreciated! Thank you for your time!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Blitz6804

saint19: I broke 1600 easy with only 2 DIMMs. It is 4 DIMMs that gives me the issues.

christoph: I am not home right now. However, every single last subtiming is set to the exact spec for DDR3-1600. I am 99% sure it is my northbridge, not the RAM, that refuses to do it.

pali: The dangerous fix is to stick a Popsicle stick between the coolers to case them to separate slightly. The safe fix is to mount a 38x120mm fan against the side of the cards so it forces air in between the cards.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11887497*
> saint19: I broke 1600 easy with only 2 DIMMs. It is 4 DIMMs that gives me the issues.
> 
> christoph: I am not home right now. However, every single last subtiming is set to the exact spec for DDR3-1600. I am 99% sure it is my northbridge, not the RAM, that refuses to do it.
> 
> pali: The dangerous fix is to stick a Popsicle stick between the coolers to case them to separate slightly. The safe fix is to mount a 38x120mm fan against the side of the cards so it forces air in between the cards.


exact spec for sub timings? on the ram?

maybe, don't know if you try with higher sub timings yet

but my MOBO refuses to boot at the first time, so I had to raise the subtimings

this is what I got, is an Aida64 screen shot, for TRFC I set 160 for all sticks instead of 110, it would not boot with 110, and set the CKE training "OFF"


----------



## pali

Thanks for the reply blitz! I do have a strong side fan on the window. When I google image sli, you see a lot of setups with them very close. Why would they put the 2 16x pcie slots so close? Doesn't make sense to me. Has anyone not had any heat issues with them so close? My single gets to 58c under full load so it will be interesting once my 2nd card arrives thursday.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

First OC results below. These settings are based on my 24/7 OC with 790 board, so will be my basepoint to hopefully move forward. If not already done please can I sign up to the club?

Bios - F2
CPU - 3.8 (200x19)
NB - 2400 (200x12) 1.2
Memory - 1333, 7-8-7-24 1T
Voltages - CPU 1.344 (stock); CPU-NB 1.2 (+.1); Mem 1.41

CPUZ validation - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1574740

Stability testing - 1 hour OCCT CPU test; 1 hour OCCT Linpack test; 2 hours P95 blend & Furmark Extreme burn (Will run an overnight P95 test tonight)


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steely_Probiscis;11889304*
> First OC results below. These settings are based on my 24/7 OC with 790 board, so will be my basepoint to hopefully move forward. If not already done please can I sign up to the club?
> 
> Bios - F2
> CPU - 3.8 (200x19)
> NB - 2400 (200x12) 1.2
> Memory - 1333, 7-8-7-24 1T
> Voltages - CPU 1.344 (stock); CPU-NB 1.2 (+.1); Mem 1.41
> 
> CPUZ validation - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1574740
> 
> Stability testing - 1 hour OCCT CPU test; 1 hour OCCT Linpack test; 2 hours P95 blend & Furmark Extreme burn (Will run an overnight P95 test tonight)


Looks good, I'd move on to F3 or F4 BIOS.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pali*


Has anyone not had any heat issues with them so close? My single gets to 58c under full load so it will be interesting once my 2nd card arrives thursday.


Mine is Crossfire+PhysX and not tri-SLI, but I say it qualifies as tight. With a 120x38mm fan added against the stack of cards, I can overclock all three cards and stay still 5-15Âº C cooler (depending on the card) as compared to stock without the fan.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Looks like you may end up with some tropical fish to fry in your fire. Are you going to douse it in water?


----------



## pali

Again, thanks for the info Blitz!


----------



## LiFTed

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1577505


----------



## giganews35

F6 Bios

[email protected] 1.44v [email protected]
[email protected] 1.325v [email protected]
Ram (7-8-7-24-33-1t) @1680Mhz 1.55v

1 hour into prime95 blend test and I got my temps up to 49-52c CPU and 64-67c NB

Is that too hot for NB? I've Read that anything under 75c should be fine.


----------



## calebkan

hi guys,
i bought GA-890FXA-UD5.i want to ask something about it..

1..what s the last bios on it?my board coming with F4 Bios..i tryed to auto update but didnt find new bios!!!

2..How i can look my nb -sb or vram temp?any option?or programs?

3--Gsata coming with 2 slots for why?and sata 2(south bridge) coming with 6 slots..i want to going raıd-o with 4 hdd..so what can i do?i must use sata 2 ports or ?whats the different gata -sata

4..i have 2.1 revision board..i know 2.1 can work 2000mhz ddr..2.0 can 1866mhz..is this a only different?

5.which one is the best for 4xhdd raıd -o?
South Bridge,
GIGABYTE SATA2 chip,
JMicron JMB362 chip,

ty


----------



## saint19

1- The latest BIOS available is the F6, but the F3 and F4 are the most stable for RAID and overclock.
2- HWMonitor TEMP0, TEMP1 and TEMP2
3- GSata works at 3Gb/s, while the others works at SATA 6Gb/s
4- Apart of RAM speed, the Core Boost chip seems to have disappeared in the 2.1 version. Dual channel works on slot 1&3 and 2&4, while in Rev. 2.0 works in 1&2 and 3&4. Solid state capacitors has change in Rev. 2.1


----------



## pali

Hey Blitz! Thanks for being so helpful with everyone. +rep. I had one quick question. Im stable at 3.8ghz on my x6 1090. However, my ram seems to be crashing when I push to 1833 using the bios settings. This is not me manually adjusting the timings but using the bios to select what speed id like to use. It made the timings go to 11. Id like to run the ram at 1600 while being stable. I have 4gb ocz reaper on xp pro with the ud5. I have rev 2.0 and just got itap I never updated the bios. What ram settings do you recommend and with which bios version. Its ok if you don't have the time to respond. Thought I would ask since you appear to be the most knowledgeable in this thread. Thank you for your time!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Blitz6804

I think Saint19 should take offense to that, but the best config on your RAM will depend on how you are getting 3.8 GHz. You ideally want the highest HTT available to be used and have the RAM and CPU fall into place after that. Assuming your RAM is this kit, you would want to set your timings to the 7-7-7-24 (tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS) specified, and then set up DDR3-1600 as the RAM desires. This can be done:

8.00x memory, 19.0x CPU, 200 MHz HTT
6.67x memory, 16.0x CPU, 238 MHz HTT (where I would likely pick)
5.33x memory, 12.5x CPU, 300 MHz HTT (likely the fastest of these)
4.00x memory, 9.5x CPU, 400 MHz HTT (I PROMISE you this will not POST)

Why do you only have 3.8 GHz on the CPU and not closer to 4.0 GHz? Have not tried higher, or your comfortable voltage will not permit it? I would suggest going with the 16x CPU, 6.67x memory (DDR3-1333) and cranking the HTT as high as it will go. At 4.0 GHz, you would have DDR3-1666, for example.

If need be, try loosening the RAM to 7-8-8-26 or 7-9-9-28 to see if it will let you get better performance. (You would need to benchmark to test that.) You might be able to get up towards 1866 MHz if you loosen it to 8-x-x-(11+2x), but I do not know how much performance increase (decrease?) that will get you.

OH, one last thing. Set your tRC to be equal to tRP + tRAS.


----------



## pali

Again, thank you so much for taking the time to reply. Yeah at 4ghz I couldn't stay stable so I went down to 3.8ghz and it seemed to work ok. After this, when putting a load I would get bsod relating to RAM errors. I will try what you suggested when I get off work. Again, I can't thank you enough.

Also, does anyone know where it says which bios version im running? Ill be doing the sli hack tonight when my 2nd card arrives. I heard f4 is the most stable.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Somehow I've had no issues with using a 250 Mhz HTT, on two different boards, and would suggest that as a try, too, although it'll cause 1600 to be 1666...something to fear if one is overly superstitious.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, 250x16 gives you 4.0 GHz flat with DDR3-1666. I ran my rig like that 24/7 until I got the other 4 GB, and then it refused to POST. (Too much load on the northbridge I would say.) It needed 1.450 V to do it though, whereas 240x16 (3840 / DDR3-1600) could be done with 1.400 V.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Currently I'm at 250 x 15 on 1.323V with 8GB. Judging by what others have posted, I have a pretty good memory controller in my chip. I haven't pushed it beyond 3.75 Ghz so far, because I haven't really needed it, but I'm starting to think I could easily hit 4.0.


----------



## pali

Update. I haven't tried the ram timings as suggested by Blitz yet but I want to share that the SLI hack worked perfectly! UD5 runs great with the two msi gtx480's. Using 0.9B version of SLI hack with nvidia 260.99 drivers.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

I just updated the bios on my motherboard and for some reason it took away all my 1/2 steps in multipliers. Anybody know how I can get these back?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blkdoutgsxr*


I just updated the bios on my motherboard and for some reason it took away all my 1/2 steps in multipliers. Anybody know how I can get these back?


Yep. Flash back to the other bios.


----------



## bekuna

Wow really nice looking thread


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11889576*
> Looks good, I'd move on to F3 or F4 BIOS.


Stuck with F2 BIOS for now (last flash I did on the 790 board did not go so well!) and upped OC:

CPU - 4.1 (205*20) @ 1.44V
NB - 2665 (13*205) @ 1.275V
OCCT stable, P95 to run overnight.
CPUZ http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1582154

Memory still at 1333(+205 FSB increase) 7-8-7-24-1T, 1.41V. Any reduction in timings and I can't boot into windows. Assuming the P95 run is good tonight I was think of trying the following to help reduce memory timings:

BIOS update to F3; DRAM voltage increase; voltage increase to NB; voltage increase to CPU-NB?

Not done much memory tweaking before, so any advice would be appreciated


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steely_Probiscis;11935887*
> Stuck with F2 BIOS for now (last flash I did on the 790 board did not go so well!) and upped OC:
> 
> CPU - 4.1 (205*20) @ 1.44V
> NB - 2665 (13*205) @ 1.275V
> OCCT stable, P95 to run overnight.
> CPUZ http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1582154
> 
> Memory still at 1333(+205 FSB increase) 7-8-7-24-1T, 1.41V. Any reduction in timings and I can't boot into windows. Assuming the P95 run is good tonight I was think of trying the following to help reduce memory timings:
> 
> BIOS update to F3; DRAM voltage increase; voltage increase to NB; voltage increase to CPU-NB?
> 
> Not done much memory tweaking before, so any advice would be appreciated


Rise only, CPU voltage and CPU-NB voltage. Why don't try run the RAM to 1600? I'm not sure if the RAM can support the 1.65V.


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11937422*
> Rise only, CPU voltage and CPU-NB voltage. Why don't try run the RAM to 1600? I'm not sure if the RAM can support the 1.65V.


Ram is rated for 1.35V @1600. BIOS won't set this - 1.31, 1.41 etc. Tried at 1600 with stock timings up to 1.51V, but no boot. Can boot @ 1600 with BIOS auto timings but they are very loose (11-11-11). May try to start here and gradually tighten. However the 965 IMC is only rated for 1333, so best performance is normally with high NB clock and tight RAM timings. So far best I can get is 9934Mb/s read with [email protected] 1386 (bumped the FSB to 208 with CPU @ 4056 & NB @ 2704)


----------



## Steely_Probiscis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;11937422*
> Rise only, CPU voltage and CPU-NB voltage. Why don't try run the RAM to 1600? I'm not sure if the RAM can support the 1.65V.


Ram is rated for 1.35V @1600. Tried at 1600 with stock timings up to 1.51V, but no boot. Not sure how far it's safe to go with the voltage on this RAM. Windows boots @ 1600 with BIOS auto timings but they are very loose (11-11-11). May try to start here and gradually tighten, but best performance on the IMC should be with high NB clock and tight RAM timings, so no point running at 1600 with loose timings. Best I have at the moment is 9934Mb/s read with [email protected] (bumped the FSB to 208 with CPU @ 4056 & NB @ 2704)


----------



## ToxicAdam

Just got this BSOD










*minutes ago I got this playing BFBC2..*


----------



## christoph

RAM problem


----------



## saint19

Somebody knows how pass the 310 FBS on this mobo?


----------



## pali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;11913477*
> I think Saint19 should take offense to that, but the best config on your RAM will depend on how you are getting 3.8 GHz. You ideally want the highest HTT available to be used and have the RAM and CPU fall into place after that. Assuming your RAM is this kit, you would want to set your timings to the 7-7-7-24 (tCL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS) specified, and then set up DDR3-1600 as the RAM desires. This can be done:
> 
> 8.00x memory, 19.0x CPU, 200 MHz HTT
> 6.67x memory, 16.0x CPU, 238 MHz HTT (where I would likely pick)
> 5.33x memory, 12.5x CPU, 300 MHz HTT (likely the fastest of these)
> 4.00x memory, 9.5x CPU, 400 MHz HTT (I PROMISE you this will not POST)
> 
> Why do you only have 3.8 GHz on the CPU and not closer to 4.0 GHz? Have not tried higher, or your comfortable voltage will not permit it? I would suggest going with the 16x CPU, 6.67x memory (DDR3-1333) and cranking the HTT as high as it will go. At 4.0 GHz, you would have DDR3-1666, for example.
> 
> If need be, try loosening the RAM to 7-8-8-26 or 7-9-9-28 to see if it will let you get better performance. (You would need to benchmark to test that.) You might be able to get up towards 1866 MHz if you loosen it to 8-x-x-(11+2x), but I do not know how much performance increase (decrease?) that will get you.
> 
> OH, one last thing. Set your tRC to be equal to tRP + tRAS.


For some reason, I can boot at 20x on multiplied with 200mhz to achieve 4.0ghz (albiet unstable) but when I try x16 at 238 as mentioned above I can't even get it to boot. Blue screens righ away. What do you think is off? Voltage or something?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pali;11969263*
> For some reason, I can boot at 20x on multiplied with 200mhz to achieve 4.0ghz (albiet unstable) but when I try x16 at 238 as mentioned above I can't even get it to boot. Blue screens righ away. What do you think is off? Voltage or something?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


CPU voltage for x20, and remember that when you change the FBS, the NB frequency, HT frequency and DRAM frequency also change.


----------



## pali

Ahh. I bet that is why then. How do I remedy this? Up the voltage to the ram? Im using the preset ram settings in bios that let's me chooses 6.66 which is like 1633mhz or something. Should I slow down the ram?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


RAM problem


Think so to..

I have 8GBs of high voltage ram(1.9v)

I'm going to replace it tomorrow with 4GB DDR3-2000 kit


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pali*


Ahh. I bet that is why then. How do I remedy this? Up the voltage to the ram? Im using the preset ram settings in bios that let's me chooses 6.66 which is like 1633mhz or something. Should I slow down the ram?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Setting the Reference clock to 200MHz and using the CPU multiplier to overclock the processor, after that you can play with the NB frequency to add more performance.


----------



## pali

Thank you saint!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## eloverton2

apologies for not wanting to go through all 274 pages and the search thread wasn't yielding answers:

hows this board do with the waterblock?

for anyone overclocking the nb with the waterblock cooler, whats the nb celing and temps?

i have a 1/2" id h2o loop, what sizes are the barbs on the waterblock?

thanks in advance


----------



## Roadking

First post, Been watching and reading for a few months now. This is my 3rd build but first attempt at OC. Right now I am semi stable. Can run 3D Mark at low score of X1220 but get BSD after 10 minutes of Prime or intermittently, during video play back Been playing FNV and TW2 on high with very little problems. But I know my system isn't stable. Here are my specs, Can some one help?

CPU Type QuadCore AMD Phenom II X4 Black Edition 965
CPU Alias Deneb
CPU Stepping RB-C3
CPUID Revision 00100F43h
CPU VID 1.4000 V
North Bridge VID 1.1000 V
CPU Clock 3913.9 MHz
CPU Multiplier 19x
CPU FSB 206.0 MHz (original: 200 MHz, overclock: 3%)
HyperTransport Clock 2060.0 MHz
North Bridge Clock 2472.0 MHz
Memory Bus 824.0 MHz
DRAM:FSB Ratio 24:6
L1 Code Cache 64 KB per core
L1 Data Cache 64 KB per core
L2 Cache 512 KB per core (On-Die, ECC, Full-Speed)
L3 Cache 6 MB (On-Die, ECC, NB-Speed)
Motherboard ID 11/24/2010-RD890-SB850-7A66DG04C-00
Motherboard Name Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 v2 (1 PCI, 2 PCI-E x1, 4 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Dual Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
Motherboard Chipset AMD 890FX, AMD K10
Memory Timings 9-9-9-24 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
Command Rate (CR) 2T
DIMM1: G Skill F3-12800CL9-4GBRL
DIMM2: G Skill F3-12800CL9-4GBRL
DIMM3: G Skill F3-12800CL9-4GBRL
DIMM4: G Skill F3-12800CL9-4GBRL
System BIOS Date 11/24/10
Video BIOS Date 12/09/09
Award BIOS Type Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG
Award BIOS Message GA-890FXA-UD5 F6
DMI BIOS Version F6
Video Adapter Asus EAH5750
GPU Code Name Juniper LE (PCI Express 2.0 x16 1002 / 68BE, Rev 00)
GPU Clock 157 MHz (original: 700 MHz)
Memory Clock 1000 MHz (original: 1150 MHz)


----------



## saint19

Hi Roadking and welcome to OCN.

You have a BE CPU, so, you don't need change the FBS, just use the CPU multiplier. When you change the FSB, the DRAM speed, HT speed and NB speed also change, and that makes you rig more unstable.


----------



## Roadking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;12046524*
> Hi Roadking and welcome to OCN.
> 
> You have a BE CPU, so, you don't need change the FBS, just use the CPU multiplier. When you change the FSB, the DRAM speed, HT speed and NB speed also change, and that makes you rig more unstable.


I realize that, however the highest stable multiplier is 18 with a clock of 3600. I'd like to go to 3900 or 4000.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Roadking*


I realize that, however the highest stable multiplier is 18 with a clock of 3600. I'd like to go to 3900 or 4000.


For a higher clock you need more voltage, so, you need rise the CPU voltage in little steps until you get 3900MHZ or 4000MHz stable. Remember check your temps, max 55ÂºC for avoid problems. After that we can move on to next step: NB frequency.


----------



## Blitz6804

While the alternative is easier, you can often get a higher overclock with lower voltage if you adjust the HTT instead of the multiplier.


----------



## ht_addict

Does it matter which BIOS version to use for overclocking on the UD5 with a Phenom 1055T X6


----------



## Blitz6804

F3 or F4 is the way to go. Before F3 is too buggy, and unless you have a 1070T, anything newer than F4 is not worth the problems associated with those BIOSes. I use F3, Saint19 prefers F4.


----------



## pali

Im using whatever bios was shipped with the board. I didn't want to update it just because I was told ill have to redo my sli hack, which isn't a big deal but I am lazy









Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## ikem

would u guys accept my puny 890XA-UD3


----------



## auriya

Can someone help me with bios settings for 1090t on these boards?
I'm having bsod when I try above 3800mhz
My aim is 4050mhz stable.


----------



## codester

Can someone able to send me, or link me where i can download the version F3 bios for Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 motherboard.

I updated to F4, but now i cant boot with my previous setting, before on F3 i had my DRAM voltage setting on 1.31v, now on F4 for some reason it won't boot with that setting.

I've tried looking for the F3 bios on Gigabyte website but for some reason they only have F1, F2, F4, F5b for download. F3 download link is missing from there.

I forgot to save my previous bios before i updated to F4.

Or someone that is currently on F3 can you save your bios and send to me please thanks.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *auriya*


Can someone help me with bios settings for 1090t on these boards?
I'm having bsod when I try above 3800mhz
My aim is 4050mhz stable.


Had you tried add more voltage to the CPU?


----------



## crunchie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ikem*


would u guys accept my puny 890XA-UD3


You may have to start your own club







. Seriously though, I'm not sure if it's strictly 5's & 7's.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunchie;12064797*
> You may have to start your own club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seriously though, I'm not sure if it's strictly 5's & 7's.


I'm thinking he may have to start is own club...that model is a 790X chipset, and is a slightly different beast.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *auriya*


Can someone help me with bios settings for 1090t on these boards?
I'm having bsod when I try above 3800mhz
My aim is 4050mhz stable.


Try this:
CPU Multi: x20
FSB: 200
CPU Voltage: 1.44
And the F6 BIOS









http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1557032

That runs smooth for me


----------



## auriya

I'm hoping to run fsb at 225 so my 1800 ram can run at 1800.
Anyone got a stable combo for 225fsb?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I've been running a stable 250 Mhz fsb (base clock, HTC, whatever) for a while. I haven't seen any issues yet. You might want to try running at 1600 and tightening the timings. CL9 isn't anything to write home about.


----------



## codester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;12064726*
> Had you tried add more voltage to the CPU?


Basically what ever setting i had it at F3. Is not bootable now with F4 bios. I wasn't even overclocking.

On F3 i had it at:

CPU: Phenom II 1090T
* underVolt + defaultClock & defaultTurbo @ 1.325v, 3.2GHz - 3.6GHz

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 rev2.0

Memory: G.Skill P.I DDR3-2300 (2G x 4)
* underVolt & underClock + tighterTime @ 1.31v, 1600mhz, CL6:7:6:19:1N

Now this setting wouldn't boot at F4, reason being is the DRAM voltage. thats why i want to move back to F3, and the gigabyte site doesnt have F3 for download. So does anyone know where i can download it or still have a copy of it? thx


----------



## UnexplodedCow

For what it's worth, I'm still using F6 and am having a fine time with it.

I'm still having high heat situations with this thing. An overnight video encode will cause the NB to hit 50C according to HW Monitor. I checked last night, and the heatsink is indeed that hot. The VRM section is causing the issue, and it looks to be a side effect of having 2 fans on the Hyper212. So, I can either find/borrow a moto tool, attempt my heatsink mods, swap in water cooling, or swap on the Noctua before, which cause the CPU to run hotter...or even swap motherboards, and deal with that garbage. I'm pretty convinced Gigabyte didn't design the heatsink for functionality, or anticipated heavy airflow specifically directed at the VRM/NB area.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12068767*
> For what it's worth, I'm still using F6 and am having a fine time with it.
> 
> I'm still having high heat situations with this thing. An overnight video encode will cause the NB to hit 50C according to HW Monitor. I checked last night, and the heatsink is indeed that hot. The VRM section is causing the issue, and it looks to be a side effect of having 2 fans on the Hyper212. So, I can either find/borrow a moto tool, attempt my heatsink mods, swap in water cooling, or swap on the Noctua before, which cause the CPU to run hotter...or even swap motherboards, and deal with that garbage. I'm pretty convinced Gigabyte didn't design the heatsink for functionality, or anticipated heavy airflow specifically directed at the VRM/NB area.


1- Do you know that the NB can hit the 80ºC right?
2- I'm pretty sure that if you use the motor tool, the heatsinks will be damage and you will get really bad temps.


----------



## codester

Quote:


> Any bios after F2 are completely [expletive deleted] for UD7, I bet there isnt many happy people, they will have half-dead boards trying to figure out the C1 loop issue. Both F3d beta + F3c beta kill it.


Can someone explain to me what that mean? its on the 1st post. Is there a problem with F3 bios? just the beta one right? stable release is ok?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;12068903*
> 1- Do you know that the NB can hit the 80ºC right?
> 2- I'm pretty sure that if you use the motor tool, the heatsinks will be damage and you will get really bad temps.


I'd made some entries a couple months ago about cutting and shaping heatsinks from old CPU ones. I would not be touching the stock onboard ones.

Yes, I know the NB can hit those temps, but I still don't think it's wise. The VRM section, however, is not designed for those temps that I've seen, and right around 50C or so, I start to see enough voltage fluctuation, and then I start getting minor errors, Prime will crash, video encodes will be broken, and it seems to have to do more with the chipset.

I'd checked for good contact before, and it's fine. The heatsink just flat out sucks, and isn't designed to dissipate enough heat. Pretty much the design depends on the rest of the components' ability to withstand high temps. To put that into perspective..it's hotter than my CPU runs.

I've mentioned before that 90C is 194F...pretty much where auto engines run their coolant at. 80 is 18F cooler...and that's not very much. It's great to see new designs come out, but the "stylish" stuff really should give way to functionality.


----------



## Blitz6804

I am with UnexplodedCow on this one Saint19... even if it could get that hot, it does not mean it should; 80º C is incredibly hot, even if within spec. Even when my CPU is at its hottest, my Northbridge usually gets up only to the low 50s. (Even at the height of summer, I do not think it has seen even 60º C.) Would I like it cooler than that, absolutely. Would I look into making custom sinks if it ran near 60º, without a doubt.


----------



## saint19

Sorry, I was not saying that you should go until that temps, I thought that he don't know the max temp.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I definitely know the max temp for the chipsets...however, the VRM section has no specified max temp. Sadly, the stock heatsink is lacking, and was obviously designed for style, and not function...the UD7 is better, but I still think its method wasn't the greatest, either..not enough surface contact for that huge heatpipe cooler.

I found an Enzotech copper VRM heatsink on Newegg, and it was said to fit the GA-870A-UD3 model board, which uses the same circuitry spacing as ours.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708016&cm_re=enzotech-_-35-708-016-_-Product

After a little more digging, I found a waterblock version, which should also fit (not confirmations, though). For the price, I'm going to likely pick up the water version, grab a NB chipset cooler, stick something on the SB for air cooling, and start a loop.

Link for the waterblock is below. There is also a copper version (non nickel plated):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708054&cm_re=enzotech-_-35-708-054-_-Product

My goal at this point is modest, but will be growing. To start I'll be going VRM, NB, and CPU, likely going with a 2x120mm radiator, and D5/655 pump. Later I'll be switching the video card to it.
I have heater cores, but am feeling especially lazy lately. I even have an '87 Escort radiator sitting about. But it's used, and I don't want to risk any potential for corrosion. I'll check more prices, although I'm expecting a relatively expensive setup.


----------



## Blitz6804

Usually car radiators are overkill for cooling, and the heater core of something like an old Bonneville is sufficient. I will say that the thing that scares me most of any PC part is in fact the PWM cooling (especially considering how so many Gigabyte boards nuke themselves) and I do wish our cooling were a bit beefier. If you come up with a solution that is simple for the technically disinclined UnexplodedCow, let me know!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I've always been one for overkill. Heater cores are a good place to start, too. I was going for the ready-made radiators out of laziness







, as I priced things, and a heater core isn't any more cost effective vs. a double 120 radiator, since the latter has a mounting system pre made, and the heater core requires one to be created (not usually a problem if scrap computer cases are around). A compact car radiator, while overkill, would be ideal for having a quiet machine with plenty of room for overclocking. It would also be easy to set up outside the case, with some brackets to keep it upright. It would also offer very low restriction for the application.

Normally I'd just suggest extra airflow..that enzotech copper heatsink looks decent, though. A NB heatsink is the real issue, and I'd really say an old CPU heatsink (athlon XP or similar, small heatsink) would be enough. The problem is ultimately weight on the chipset. It's an open core design, and only has 2 mounting holes, so the chance for chipping or cracking the core is petty high with a heavier, tall heatsink (such as the mini tower chipset heatsinks). If a shim could be used or created, that would eliminate most of the issues, and avoiding spring-loaded push pins.

I was in the process of making things when my Dremel died. I'm currently looking at an industrial grade moto tool that should work better. Once I have it, I'll finish the cuts, try them out, and report how it goes. After that I'll try to get more ancient heatsinks, and modify them to work. I just need a moto tool









I can at least say a 423 P4 heatsink is an excellent place to start for both NB and VRM.


----------



## auriya

Is F6 bios the best for o/c?
I'm still having trouble getting 4ghz stable.
Has anyone got it stable below 1.45v


----------



## crunchie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auriya*
> Is F6 bios the best for o/c?
> I'm still having trouble getting 4ghz stable.
> Has anyone got it stable below 1.45v


Got mine 4Ghz stable with 1.35 in bios (1.344 in Windows under load).
F3 BIOS.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Running F6 myself with 250x15 (3.75 Ghz) on 1.323 volts. I've had no issues from it, although I would like half multipliers.


----------



## giganews35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunchie;12096630*
> Got mine 4Ghz stable with 1.35 in bios (1.344 in Windows under load).
> F3 BIOS.


Nice I was able to get 4.0Ghz at 1.375v but the NB was lower to get it stable. The H70 isn't too great of a cooler, I wish I spent money on some water blocks and nice radiator/pump.


----------



## mobeious

How would this memory fair with the 890fx ud5 board

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231430


----------



## UnexplodedCow

CL7 RAM..I've tried Gskill before (Ripjaws 4x2GB set), and it was fine. Judging by the voltage, it's fairly good, too. I'd say go for it, but try to cross reference the module number on the QVA for the motherboard (found on Gigabyte's site). Granted, they didn't specify the 4GB modules I was using, but they ran flawlessly. They also didn't specify the exact kit of Corsair I'm using, although the module was tested to work with the board. Some on here also like the ECO modules. I'm sticking with the Corsair until proven otherwise.


----------



## mobeious

ya i dont see that memory listed on gigabytes site but that memory just came out


----------



## ToxicAdam

Is it okay to add any 5870 with my manufacturer overclock sapphire 5870 x for crossfire?

Don't want to spend over $200 on another sapphire x..


----------



## Blitz6804

ToxicAdam: Yes, it should be fine. Unless I am mistaken, the SapphireX will just downclock to match. Worse case, use MSI Afterburner or CCC to overclock the new card to match the SapphireX. Even without that, two reference HD 5870s will beat one OCed HD 5870 in many games. (Not all, as not all support Crossfire. GRID, for example, not only does not use Crossfire, but your framerate will be lower and subject to crashing with it enabled.)


----------



## ToxicAdam

Blitz6804, THANKS MAN


----------



## m0nt3

Hello everyone, first time poster. Im posting my problem here because this thread was brought up most in my research. Here is what I have.

AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5
2x2Gb Mushkin Blackline DDR3 1600
AMD Radeon HD6950 2Gb
Thermaltake TR2-RX 850W PSU (single 12v rail version)
Scythe Kabuto air cooler

My problem: I had been running 250*14 @ 3.5 with HTT and NB @ 2.5GHz. Was stress test stable. Lots of gaming/video encoding. When i first got this setup no problem getting 4.0 to boot and run benchmarks. Now no settings are stable (except stock). Usually get the overclock failed message or if it does boot it locks up shortly after. Sometime it will work till I reboot then it gives overclock failed error. Also will not enter BIOS at times screen goes black or freezes on post screen (when in overclocked settings). I have tried lower the NB/HTT/Memory to speeds to as low as possible but still same issues. For it once to be stable I thought this wierd. So i downgraded the BIOS from F6 to F3 (nothing would boot but stock). Tried F2 would start booting, although randomly but often times stuck at x4 multi. So, my question is, Motherboard, CPU, failry certain not PSU. Memory test fine with memtest86.

Update: Seems to be fine at any base clock below 240


----------



## Blitz6804

The being stuck at 4x multi was a common problem with the F2 BIOS, which is why it begat the F3 BIOS. I would try reflashing the F3 again, it is possible it did not fully take. Also remember that you have to clear the CMOS any time you flash the BIOS. If you are flashing using @BIOS, you should use both checkboxes located under the progress bar (Load CMOS default after BIOS update and Clear DMI data Pool) for best results. After that, give BIOS F4 a try. It is not likely to be a problem on a motherboard this new, but consider testing the CMOS battery (CR-2032) with a multimeter to ensure it is putting out at least 3.0 volts.


----------



## m0nt3

I used the q-flash utility on start-up. CMOS was clear, cmos batter is ok. Before i flashed the BIOS after having ran F6 for quite some time @ 3.5 I decided to see if i could go a little higher. After that it started refusing to overclock at all even at 3.5 that i ran for several months. I had asved that 3.5 profile loaded it no boot or lock up wehen loading windows. I will try reflashing F3, but I doubt it will work. Thanks.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

What voltages are you running on the chipset and RAM? What temps do you have for motherboard chipset? That might play a role in things. Try posting the specs of your system, and it will really help determine what's going on.
However, this isn't the first time people here have had issues with Mushkin RAM in this board, so I immediately suspect it. Food for thought.

In other news: WATERCOOLING ON THE WAY!
1x EK Supreme HF Nickel/Acetal
1x EK 6970 Copper/Acetal
1x Enzotech Nickel WMST-88
1x Dangerden MPC Universal Acrylic
2x XSPC RS240 radiators
1x Laing D5 pump
1" tubing/connectors all around.
Fillport (no room, and I hate reservoirs...long fillport tube will suffice)
I already have several Delta fans sitting about, and will likely be elbowing the radiators together to help airflow...sucking air from outside the case, through, and blowing it back out, all ducted by elbows. The two radiators should work well.

If that doesn't knock down the temps, I have no clue what will. I may add in a 2nd D5 pump later, but it should suffice for now, as everything is pretty low resistance.


----------



## giganews35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auriya;12095935*
> Is F6 bios the best for o/c?
> I'm still having trouble getting 4ghz stable.
> Has anyone got it stable below 1.45v


Don't know if this was answered yet.

I'm running F6
CPU at 4.23Ghz 1.425v
NB at 2.82Ghz 1.275v
Ram at CL7 1600Mhz 1.41v
CPU under prime95 blend test heats up to 50C
NB reached 67C


----------



## m0nt3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12119410*
> What voltages are you running on the chipset and RAM? What temps do you have for motherboard chipset? That might play a role in things. Try posting the specs of your system, and it will really help determine what's going on.
> However, this isn't the first time people here have had issues with Mushkin RAM in this board, so I immediately suspect it. Food for thought.
> 
> 1) I did post my specs, look back a few post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2)Memory is at default 1.65V and as stated previously, its a recent issue. Not the memory, it runs 1600 7-9-7-24-1T just fine in this board. Also as stated, memtest86 stable.
> 3)I have tried a reasonal range of voltages for both CPU and chipset. No avail.
> 4)Motherboard and system temps are around 30c, not the issue.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12119410*
> 1) I did post my specs, look back a few post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2)Memory is at default 1.65V and as stated previously, its a recent issue. Not the memory, it runs 1600 7-9-7-24-1T just fine in this board. Also as stated, memtest86 stable.
> 3)I have tried a reasonal range of voltages for both CPU and chipset. No avail.
> 4)Motherboard and system temps are around 30c, not the issue.


Go here: http://www.overclock.net/specs.php?do=addsystem and add your system.


----------



## Velathawen

Would you guys recommend flashing from F4 to F6? I seem to see a lot of people getting higher clocks with lower voltages and I can't tell if it's because they have newer steppings (95w) of my processor.

I'm also about to change my flares for 4x2GB of g.skill eco. I read that AMD processors don't play nicely with lower voltages, so I'm guessing 1.4v would be sufficient right?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I tried F4 and had issues with it. If I remember, it nuked my boot drive after flashing to it, so I tried f6. I avoided F5 like a plague.
Lower voltages should be fine, but I have to confess ignorance here; I've only tried 1.5v, 1.65, and 1.9v modules with success...haven't played with ultra low voltage types.. Check out GB's RAM QVL. If you can find the module listed, you're more likely to have success running it. I thought Flares were a normal voltage type.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen;12147445*
> Would you guys recommend flashing from F4 to F6? I seem to see a lot of people getting higher clocks with lower voltages and I can't tell if it's because they have newer steppings (95w) of my processor.
> 
> I'm also about to change my flares for 4x2GB of g.skill eco. I read that AMD processors don't play nicely with lower voltages, so I'm guessing 1.4v would be sufficient right?


You can do it, if doesn't works good for you, rollback to F4.


----------



## Blitz6804

Velathawen: I run 4x2 GB of Eco on F3 without any significant problems. You cannot give the RAM 1.350 V, however, so you must give it 1.410 V.

UnexplodedCow: He is going from the Flares to the Ecos.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Understood there...I was just wondering why switch from the flares to the ecos, unless the flares have loose timings in comparison (some modules I've seen are Cl9...which I'd definitely call loose).


----------



## Velathawen

Thanks for the responses guys, it sounds simple enough. I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn't fry the chips or anything within moments of plugging them in. A friend of mine was able to pick up two sets for me to bring back here to HK where they are charging roughly 105 USD per set.

I'm still undecided concerning flashing to F6 bios. Part of me doesn't want to tamper with something that isn't broken, but the possibility of squeezing out a lower voltage is also appealing at the same time ; ;

Edit - Just saw the question

I'm swapping from flares to eco because I want to run 8gb of ram and it is much more cost effective for me to buy 2 sets of eco than to swap to a 2x4GB kit of flares. I use a Cogage Arrow and the heatspreaders on the flares are way too tall to fit another kit below even without the included ram cooler.

Edit2 - Figures that newegg has a 15% off on all memory modules deal the day after I order mine. DARN U NEWEGG!!!!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Gotcha. You should have more than adequate room with the ecos. A while ago I bought some Gskill ripjaws 2x4 kit that seems to work well, but it's not tight timings, and will not tighten them regardless of what voltage I throw at them...and given the eco module reputation, it's the better choice. If you're going to overclock, then the 4x2 is also better to a point since the modules themselves are more likely to OC.

The only real annoyance of F6 is the lack of half multiplier. Otherwise I'm happy with it. I didn't notice any better OC vs. F3 or F4, but I'm not really pushing high, since I'm stock voltage (1.323) and 3.75 Ghz.


----------



## saint19

@Velathawen: Are you gonna re-sell those Flares? Are 1800MHZ or 2000MHz?


----------



## Velathawen

1800 CL8, I've been running them at 1529 7-8-7-20 1T 1.5

I've considered selling the flares and have been looking for buyers locally. Since I live in Hong Kong, I haven't really bothered posting on the OCN marketplace since the shipping would eat a decent chunk.


----------



## Blitz6804

Regards that 15% off sale... sometimes if you ask Newegg REALLLLLLY nicely, they will retroactively apply the sale.


----------



## Velathawen

Edit -

So it's not so stable, I've got several questions:

1. It won't let me boot at 7-7-7-20 1T 1529mhz 1.41v, it only boots at 1.51v
2. Wondering if I have to lower my OC some since I'm populating all 4 slots

Current settings:
Bus Speed - 287 x 14
HT Link x7 - 2009
NB Frequency x9 - 2582.9 
CPU Vcore - 1.475 (1.488 load)
CPU NB - 1.29v
CPU NB VID - 1.25v
Ram 7-7-7-20 1T - 1.51v

Current stress test results:
Comp freezes ~5 minutes into prime95 blend. I think this is a voltage problem if I remember right, but I don't think I should need to go higher than this for 4014 >_>.


----------



## Blitz6804

The ECOs are rated for 7-8-7. I have found they do not particularly like to be any tighter than 7-8-8. That is possibly why you need the extra voltage. Also, 20 is too tight for 7-7-7, and instead, should be at least 21, 23 would be better. (For 7-8-8, you are looking at 25.)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

UPDATE FOR WATERCOOLING:

Still getting a few more parts together. Nabbed a 3rd radiator to bleed off heat between CPU and GPU. Running the 2x240 radiators in parallel to help with flow restriction. Also paralleling the VRM/NB combo.

After receiving everything, I'm 95% sure I won't have any fitment issues with the DD universal block, and the Enzotech is pretty much a direct fit component.

The EK blocks (CPU/VGA card) are very, very nice pieces. Really all of them are. The pump is larger than I envisioned, but will still fit where I need it to. All watercooling will fit inside the case, nothing will hang out.

I also picked up a Proxxon moto tool, and will cut some holes, and otherwise continue with the air cooling mod. However, I'm still thinking the Enzotech VRM heatsink (88mm model) will be cheap enough, and easier to find. So I'll focus on a good NB design that will clear everything, keep weight down, and otherwise work. Once everything is completed I'll post pictures. This is going to take some time, though...haven't had much time in the past month.

If you have questions, ideas, or info, please feel free to PM me.


----------



## Blitz6804

I say you should create a build thread on OCN... frequent pictures during assembly would be ideal.


----------



## Velathawen

Hrmm I dropped my OC a little bit

Current settings:
Bus Speed - 283 x 14
HT Link x7 - 1981
NB Frequency x9 - 2545
CPU Vcore - 1.45 (1.456 load)
CPU NB - 1.27v
CPU NB VID - 1.25v
Ram 7-7-7-20 1T - 1.51v

So far it's ~8 hours into p95 blend no errors yet. Should I bother loosening the timings anyways?


----------



## Blitz6804

I would say to loosen them a hair to see if you can get the 4.0 GHz back.


----------



## Blitz6804

Also, Prime95 by itself is not enough to test stability. Your CPU/RAM might be perfectly stable, but as soon as you push the GPU, the rig can freeze due to the northbridge. I suggest having something at least lightly stress the GPU while testing with Prime. I personally run Kombustor 1.0.7 on its lowest settings to give my GPUs around 35-40% load for this.


----------



## Velathawen

I'm running 3 [email protected] GPU clients while it primes, looks promising so far.


----------



## Blitz6804

Outstanding. After 24 hours, you should save these settings to one of your profiles before tinkering further. A fall back point you know?


----------



## Velathawen

Hrm, prime passed 24 hr mark but [email protected] bsod' 13% into a WU.

Currently trying these settings:
Current settings:
Bus Speed - 287 x 14
HT Link x7 - 2009
NB Frequency x9 - 2583
CPU Vcore - 1.45 (1.472 load)
CPU NB - 1.27v
CPU NB VID - 1.25v
Ram 7-8-8-25 1T - effective 1530 @1.51v


----------



## Blitz6804

What is strange to me: Your CPU VCore is "higher." I am also set to 1.450 V in the BIOS, but I only get 1.440 V at load, not 1.472 V. What BIOS are you running again?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


What is strange to me: Your CPU VCore is "higher." I am also set to 1.450 V in the BIOS, but I only get 1.440 V at load, not 1.472 V. What BIOS are you running again?


Hi man.

Do you know what is the max voltage for the 1090T on H2O?


----------



## Blitz6804

I had heard 1.500 V on air, 1.550 V on water, but do not quote me on that.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I had heard 1.500 V on air, 1.550 V on water, but do not quote me on that.


Thanks. I think that I have a bad CPU, I tried 1.650V on Vcore and I can't pass the 4.6GHz.


----------



## Velathawen

I'm actually quite puzzled by this as well, I'm running F4 at the moment.

It primed for 24 hours successfully so I've saved those settings. Now I'm wondering how I can get my ram to run at 1.41v instead of 1.51. It still won't let me boot at 1.41 with these settings.


----------



## Blitz6804

What is more perplexing is my computer (with identical RAM and similar processor) lock up within 100 minutes of starting the tests. To be honest though, I am starting to think it is a graphics-driver problem.


----------



## Velathawen

Is yours a full screen lock up? Or a BSOD? I had full screen lock ups when I was having issues from a few days ago.

The other thing I'm pretty puzzled by is the fact that I'm essentially using the same settings as before but some how I am passing p95 + folding right now whereas two days or three days ago I couldn't.


----------



## Blitz6804

Hard lock. The video I am watching stops (but audio continues), then the mouse stops moving, and eventually the audio locks. Like I said, to me, that sounds like a driver failure.


----------



## Tweek1142

I am getting this board and want to run 2 EVGA 9800 GTX + in sli...is this possible. I know about the hack but wanted to know if anyone has used it with this board with good results. My cpu is AMD 965 BE...


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tweek1142*


I am getting this board and want to run 2 EVGA 9800 GTX + in sli...is this possible. I know about the hack but wanted to know if anyone has used it with this board with good results. My cpu is AMD 965 BE...


The 9800GTX is a old GPU but very good, as you say you can use hack SLI and should not be a problem if you do the steps in the proper way.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12211017*
> Hard lock. The video I am watching stops (but audio continues), then the mouse stops moving, and eventually the audio locks. Like I said, to me, that sounds like a driver failure.


Blitz, thats what it is looking like to me. I love hardware, its easier for me to fingure out and typically less to go wrong (things mostly just get tired over time) where as harddrives can magially misplace things. I recently stopped folding, had my system off for a couple weeks, went to turn it back on and had corrupted files all over. Figured my SSD was goin crazy but after repairing the issues I had, booting day after day, I have not had a single problem. Freaking software.

Edit: Post number 1k!!!! Woot!


----------



## thezfunk

So...ah. Does anyone have alternatives to the old ass AMD drivers on Gigabyte's website?


----------



## Blitz6804

I believe it must be the GPU. Memtest passed 7 runs at my 24/7 stable clocks (the only thing that has changed is the GPUs) and has now passed 2 runs at my experimental clocks. Apparently, MSI Kombustor for an hour is *NOT* enough to prove GPU stability. I am going to back the GPUs down a bit and give it another go.


----------



## Velathawen

Interesting, so maybe all my tinkering around with the bus speed and stuff was for nothing. Wondering if a format would help as well.


----------



## Blitz6804

Well, how far are your GPUs overclocked, maybe they are just too far? Have you tried doing your 24/7 stress test with the GPUs stock and only the CPU overclocked?

Also, how old is your power supply? Stock, you are using 160 W for the GTX 460, and 105 W for each of the 9800 GTs, and the hexacore at 4.0 GHz adds another 140 W, so about 510 W overall. That should be fine for your 750 W PSU, but if the PSU is on the old side, it might not be putting out its full 720 W on the 12 V rail. If your GPUs are overclocked, you will be going higher than 510 W. I do not think you can increase it to the tune of 210 W, but you never know.


----------



## Velathawen

Roughly owned it for a year or so.

9800GT used to run at 700mhz and 1.087 935 for 460

Nowadays I'm running 650 mhz for the 9800GT and 1.087 900mhz for the 460

Do you reckon I'm going over what my PSU can handle? O-o


----------



## Velathawen

double post!


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried an older version of nVidia's drivers? Even with four HDDs, two optical drives, and seven fans, I do not think that will come out to 210 W. Unless they are Deltas or something, then maybe.

Also, since dropping the overclock of my HD 6970s, I am now up to 2.5 hours stable in my 24/7 test for the experimental overclock whereas before I usually froze out around 100 minutes.

I guess that will teach me to listen to Kombustor anymore. (1 hour Kombustor passed at 935/1425. Endless [email protected] work units would pass. Kombustor would fail past about 95 minutes or so, and VLC would lock the computer up after about 4 hours.)


----------



## ht_addict

Best BIOS for overclocking a 1055T on the UD5 board?


----------



## Blitz6804

It appears that would be F4 from what I have seen.


----------



## Velathawen

Nope, I'm using all DS12M Yates, so definitely not delta. The trying a different video driver thing is interesting though. I'll have to try that.


----------



## senth

Bios F6

Tried to install the new AMD RAID driver from ATI.com
Getting BSOD. old AMD Raid driver from Gigabyte website gives me no problem.
Anyone having the same problem?


----------



## thezfunk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *senth*


Bios F6

Tried to install the new AMD RAID driver from ATI.com
Getting BSOD. old AMD Raid driver from Gigabyte website gives me no problem.
Anyone having the same problem?


Yes, this led me to my question. I want the newer raid drivers since I am running a Raid 0. I get the BSOD when I load the newer drivers from AMD as well.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Best BIOS for overclocking a 1055T on the UD5 board?


As Blitz6804 says, the F4 version has worked pretty well for me.


----------



## ap42

I recently built my 1090t system & have been scanning this thread for raid info wrt the bios. My mb came with the F5 Bios on it which is apparently problematic with raid.

I have two 1tb samsung drives on the gsata connectors that I was going to try to configure as raid1, and am wondering if I should drop back to F4 or F3 bios before I try to set it up? It looks like most people are using raid0 for their boot drives to get faster reads, but I want to go with raid1 to store all the files we don't want to take a chance of losing to a bad drive. I was going to do it on the gsata since I only want to do two drives, and might put sata6 drives on with the boot drive & dvd down the road.

So what's the general vote? Will I be better off with F3 or F4? Or should I try with F6 & lose the half multipliers on the clock? I want to try to OC this to as close to 4Ghz as I can get.

Thanks!


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ap42*


I recently built my 1090t system & have been scanning this thread for raid info wrt the bios. My mb came with the F5 Bios on it which is apparently problematic with raid.

I have two 1tb samsung drives on the gsata connectors that I was going to try to configure as raid1, and am wondering if I should drop back to F4 or F3 bios before I try to set it up? It looks like most people are using raid0 for their boot drives to get faster reads, but I want to go with raid1 to store all the files we don't want to take a chance of losing to a bad drive. I was going to do it on the gsata since I only want to do two drives, and might put sata6 drives on with the boot drive & dvd down the road.

So what's the general vote? Will I be better off with F3 or F4? Or should I try with F6 & lose the half multipliers on the clock? I want to try to OC this to as close to 4Ghz as I can get.

Thanks!



F4 then

F6 is good to go but you'll have no half multipliers


----------



## thezfunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ap42;12251810*
> I recently built my 1090t system & have been scanning this thread for raid info wrt the bios. My mb came with the F5 Bios on it which is apparently problematic with raid.
> 
> I have two 1tb samsung drives on the gsata connectors that I was going to try to configure as raid1, and am wondering if I should drop back to F4 or F3 bios before I try to set it up? It looks like most people are using raid0 for their boot drives to get faster reads, but I want to go with raid1 to store all the files we don't want to take a chance of losing to a bad drive. I was going to do it on the gsata since I only want to do two drives, and might put sata6 drives on with the boot drive & dvd down the road.
> 
> So what's the general vote? Will I be better off with F3 or F4? Or should I try with F6 & lose the half multipliers on the clock? I want to try to OC this to as close to 4Ghz as I can get.
> 
> Thanks!


I am sure the AMD SATA connectors would give you better performance over the GSATA ones but if your saving those for something else....


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thezfunk;12257356*
> I am sure the AMD SATA connectors would give you better performance over the GSATA ones but if your saving those for something else....


If those Spinpoint are SATA 3Gb/s (that I think are), he will get the same performance in both AMD SATA and GSATA.


----------



## ap42

Yes, they're both spinpoint F3's:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

I benchmarked them with Sandra & they looked to be running at the same performance as when they were on the regular sata ports.

Since they're the only two I am going to raid, I though it would be easier to put them on the gsata so their cables are out of the way for now & so I only have to turn raid on for the gsata ports.

Thanks for the BIOS advice - I will flash F4 tonight before I start setting up the array or play with OC settings.


----------



## thezfunk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ap42*


Yes, they're both spinpoint F3's:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive 

I benchmarked them with Sandra & they looked to be running at the same performance as when they were on the regular sata ports.

Since they're the only two I am going to raid, I though it would be easier to put them on the gsata so their cables are out of the way for now & so I only have to turn raid on for the gsata ports.

Thanks for the BIOS advice - I will flash F4 tonight before I start setting up the array or play with OC settings.


Just fyi, I have f6 and raid 0 and a 4ghz overclock that I can push stable to 4.2 so imo f6 is fine


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Just an update here...

I can confirm the Enzotech waterblock fits the UD5. However, it seems that my holes were slightly off..enough that it was an issue to get the thing down all the way (the holes through the block are long and snug...yes, this could be a joke).
So, judicious use of a drill bit, and a voided warranty later, the bolts fit a tiny bit more loosely, and that took care of the issue. I can confirm the DD MPC Universal DOES NOT fit directly, and requires extension brackets to be made, bolted to the block, and then bolted to the mounting screws. Considering the price, I'll spend the time to make it. Otherwise it's a good block.

I also found an EK set for VRM/NB/SB if anyone is interested. Considering it fits the 790 chipset boards, it should work for ours.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...html?tl=g30c89

There is an acrylic or acetal/nickel plated version, too..but this is cheapest. Not bad considering the 3 blocks, although the SB is really pointless given its heat output, and would best be cooled by a passive heatsink.

The EK CPU block fits very nicely, too. For those of you who care, the EK 6970 block also fits spot on. I'm waiting on silicone tubing to complete the package, and should have things running in a week...right now running on the "weak" box (quad core with 8 GB, 1TB HDD, 5850, on Asus board).

I haven't found a direct replacement for the SB heatsink, but will continue to look around, or just make one with hold-down brackets. Once it's all taken care of, I'll likely make a build thread (more of a walkthrough), to help those who will venture into this (expensive) side of cooling.


----------



## ap42

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ap42*


Yes, they're both spinpoint F3's:
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive 

I benchmarked them with Sandra & they looked to be running at the same performance as when they were on the regular sata ports.

Since they're the only two I am going to raid, I though it would be easier to put them on the gsata so their cables are out of the way for now & so I only have to turn raid on for the gsata ports.

Thanks for the BIOS advice - I will flash F4 tonight before I start setting up the array or play with OC settings.


Installed F4 Bios, setup the raid1 array on the gsata ports, and now windows shows the one raid array as a single 1TB drive.

Everything is up & running - thanks for the help. Now I can focus on OC'ing this thing.


----------



## Velathawen

Same OC with older drivers, everything works! Have you made any progress on your rig Blitz?


----------



## Blitz6804

Nope, none. It keeps failing, so I put it back to where I last proved it. I have not yet tested here to make sure it is not the CPU going too high. However, this time, instead of a cascade failure (indicative of a GPU driver crash), I had Core Temp die, and then the whole thing lock up. (Meaning the CPU overclock was likely too high.)


----------



## Wizzap

Will the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 Hold 2 6850 Hd's in the x16 slots or will they touch


----------



## crunchie

I got 2 6870's in mine. Only length is different I believe.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wizzap*


Will the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 Hold 2 6850 Hd's in the x16 slots or will they touch


Not a problem, as crunchie says the only difference in size is the length.


----------



## Blitz6804

The HD 6970s touch slightly. A small coin (like a nickle or penny) near the fan intakes will ensure they remain an appropriate gap for cooling. (That might also be because the prior owner of this case bent it slightly.)


----------



## polynomialc

im running 2 - 6870's the cards are very close, not quite touching. 45c idle for one card 38c idle temp for the other.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Here's a question for all of you Xfire guys:

Is it possible to make the lower card (which presumably runs cooler) the primary on the UD5, hopefully allowing the upper card (with restricted airflow) to idle more or work less? Just a thought, outside of trying to use the other slots for more space between, or water.

I already miss my big box...it's still in pieces, and I'm going to see if the Proxxon moto tool I bought will be a worthy replacement of anything Dremel. Tonight I cut my radiator holes.

I still haven't made the mount brackets for the chipset block yet...been modifying some Xbox 360s lately for custom cooling. If anyone knows where to purchase copper plate stock, I'd appreciate it. I'm also considering water-cooling mine now.

Yes, I'm way off topic. My apologies.


----------



## christoph

in bios you can choose which video card to boot up with, but don't know for sure if that would make it the primary video card, it should but...


----------



## Blitz6804

UnexplodedCow: As far as I can determine, the "primary" card is the one you have the monitor plugged into. If you want the bottom card to work harder, plug the monitor into that one. That said, even with 2x HD 6970 and a GTX 285 all on top of each other (OCed to 920 MHz and 675 MHz respectively) the hotter of the two HD 6970s (I believe the top-most card of the stack given that GPUz reads that as being 16x, and the cooler one is 8x) reads only 78Âº C under load. Granted, the fan gets a little on the loud side as it gets into the high 60s in terms of fan speed. Two cards instead of three might help.


----------



## Velathawen

Would it help to also select which the "primary display" is in the display settings on your desktop?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


UnexplodedCow: As far as I can determine, the "primary" card is the one you have the monitor plugged into. If you want the bottom card to work harder, plug the monitor into that one. That said, even with 2x HD 6970 and a GTX 285 all on top of each other (OCed to 920 MHz and 675 MHz respectively) the hotter of the two HD 6970s (I believe the top-most card of the stack given that GPUz reads that as being 16x, and the cooler one is 8x) reads only 78Âº C under load. Granted, the fan gets a little on the loud side as it gets into the high 60s in terms of fan speed. Two cards instead of three might help.


That's along the lines of what I was thinking. I'm also dying to see how the 6970 runs under water (for me anyway), as I kept fan speeds up to keep it cool (around 60-65C under load). My card wouldn't idle well due to dual monitors and the clocks/voltage not decreasing, but it was a cooler one in a game. Max temp is supposed to be 104C. I just dislike my computer parts running hotter than my car engine does









As an aside, I tried the 6970 fan on my 5850, and have to admit that it's much better for it. 50% fan is all I need to keep temps within reason.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you do not yet have a second HD 6970, and you are curious which is the primary before you buy, I can try moving the monitor over if you would like.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Thank you, Blitz, that would be most helpful. Of course, at least one of the cards would be watercooled for me. I can always tack on radiators in the future, if I want to keep all noise down, but I'd like to see if swapping to the more open card is possible.
(now have dual D5 pumps in series...should be plenty).

Thanks again for offering to try it.


----------



## Blitz6804

Good thing I tried. Plugging the monitor only into GPU2's HDMI slot resulted in a blank monitor. No picture was output at all. Maybe if I had two monitors, I could plug into both HDMIs, extend, and then remove the former, but I do not. Changing the BIOS from PCI/PEG1 to PEG2 resulted in me being unable to view the boot screen at all. PEG3 (my PhysX card) could still be used to view the boot screen. So it seems if there is a card in PEG1, the BIOS refuses to even acknowledge PEG2's existence. If you slightly space the two cards you should have no temperature issues, especially if you do as I did and lean a 120x38mm fan against the gap. (I personally have not shimmed them yet, but come springtime, when it is too warm to have the windows open and my apartment complex has not reactivated the central air, I may have to try it.)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

That's disappointing; maybe something to note for Gigabyte to fix in the next BIOS (hopefully they'll come out with one). One thing to try may be a PCI-E jumper card to see how the board responds.

I'm a tad surprised Gigabyte hasn't given more info about these boards, or kept on a steady BIOS update pace...AM3 may be a dead platform, but come on, it hasn't even been a year.


----------



## eys

Hey guys, I have this motherboard and would like to know about the BIOS settings. But here's my issue.

Well about a month ago I put together my first build and everything has been working great so far (Fast, plays all games I throw at it greatly) except the only problem is if I play a game it will randomly shut down maybe 15-30 mins into game play to a black screen and a few seconds later and my monitors will read "No DVI signal". And then I'll have to reboot my system. Although if I get to the task manager fast enough before it completely shuts down I can get to my desktop where it will read "AMD driver has stopped responding and has recovered".

Sometimes it wont do it for a while, but other times it will do it often when I'm playing games. Although it has done it twice when I was just browsing the Internet and it then lead to the bsof only those two times.

Here are the specs.

Monitors: ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" (3, I have an Eyefinity setup)

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 BE

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T BE

CPU cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212

GPU: GIGABYTE Radeon HD 6970

PSU: CORSAIR 650W

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series CL7 4GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231303

SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Callisto Deluxe 2.5" 40GB SATA II MLC SSD

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB 7200 RPM

All the temperatures are fine so it's not overheating.

I've uninstalled drivers, I've installed the latest drivers multiple times. Used Driver sweep in safe mode as well.

I've Updated the BIOs on the motherboard.

Happens with just one monitor running too.

I've messed around with the vcore voltages, DRAM voltages, and north bridge voltages, still no success.

And I have never over clocked any of it.

I don't know what else to do, so I have these pics of my bios so maybe someone here can see if I have something set wrong.














































Thanks a lot if you can.


----------



## ht_addict

Is there anyway a BIOS upgrade could make the 3rd PCI-E slot the 16x instead of 4x or is it hardwired?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eys*


Hey guys, I have this motherboard and would like to know about the BIOS settings. But here's my issue.

Well about a month ago I put together my first build and everything has been working great so far (Fast, plays all games I throw at it greatly) except the only problem is if I play a game it will randomly shut down maybe 15-30 mins into game play to a black screen and a few seconds later and my monitors will read "No DVI signal". And then I'll have to reboot my system. Although if I get to the task manager fast enough before it completely shuts down I can get to my desktop where it will read "AMD driver has stopped responding and has recovered".

Sometimes it wont do it for a while, but other times it will do it often when I'm playing games. Although it has done it twice when I was just browsing the Internet and it then lead to the bsof only those two times.

Here are the specs.

Monitors: ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" (3, I have an Eyefinity setup)

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 BE

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T BE

CPU cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212

GPU: GIGABYTE Radeon HD 6970

PSU: CORSAIR 650W

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series CL7 4GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231303

SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Callisto Deluxe 2.5" 40GB SATA II MLC SSD

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB 7200 RPM

All the temperatures are fine so it's not overheating.

I've uninstalled drivers, I've installed the latest drivers multiple times. Used Driver sweep in safe mode as well.

I've Updated the BIOs on the motherboard.

Happens with just one monitor running too.

I've messed around with the vcore voltages, DRAM voltages, and north bridge voltages, still no success.

And I have never over clocked any of it.

I don't know what else to do, so I have these pics of my bios so maybe someone here can see if I have something set wrong.

Thanks a lot if you can.


Your NB voltage is high for running your rig with the specs that you show in BIOS, your NB voltage is high, more when you don't need change it unless that you change the FSB (something that you don't did it). Set the NB to 1.150V and change the CPU-NB voltage around the same voltage of your CPU, that is pretty high for stock speed.


----------



## Blitz6804

eys: What version of CCC are you using? If 11.1, try uninstalling that and installing 10.12.

ht_addict: The 4x slot is physically only wired to run at 4x just as the 8x slot is physically only wired to run 8x. The 4x bandwidth does not limit a PhysX card in the least if you are at all interested.


----------



## eys

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Your NB voltage is high for running your rig with the specs that you show in BIOS, your NB voltage is high, more when you don't need change it unless that you change the FSB (something that you don't did it). Set the NB to 1.150V and change the CPU-NB voltage around the same voltage of your CPU, that is pretty high for stock speed.


Yeah even before I messed with any voltages, it still had this problem, but last night I loaded optimal defaults.

I'll try that though.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


eys: What version of CCC are you using? If 11.1, try uninstalling that and installing 10.12.


I've tried 11.1 and the hotfix and also 10.12.


----------



## mobeious

i have the gskill type x ... and cant get a good clock i just had to clear cmos to get my pc to boot back up


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mobeious*


i have the gskill type x ... and cant get a good clock i just had to clear cmos to get my pc to boot back up


Are you using the manufacturer specs?


----------



## mobeious

just installing the memory and starting up the pc i get

9-9-9-28-37-1t

this is gskill ripjaw x CL7 12800

i think imma try

7-8-7-24-28-2t at 1600mhz with a little voltage bumb


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mobeious*


just installing the memory and starting up the pc i get

9-9-9-28-37-1t

this is gskill ripjaw x CL7 12800

i think imma try

7-8-7-24-28-2t at 1600mhz with a little voltage bumb


Use the voltage that specs says for the ram.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eys*


Hey guys, I have this motherboard and would like to know about the BIOS settings. But here's my issue.

Well about a month ago I put together my first build and everything has been working great so far (Fast, plays all games I throw at it greatly) except the only problem is if I play a game it will randomly shut down maybe 15-30 mins into game play to a black screen and a few seconds later and my monitors will read "No DVI signal". And then I'll have to reboot my system. Although if I get to the task manager fast enough before it completely shuts down I can get to my desktop where it will read "AMD driver has stopped responding and has recovered".

Sometimes it wont do it for a while, but other times it will do it often when I'm playing games. Although it has done it twice when I was just browsing the Internet and it then lead to the bsof only those two times.

Here are the specs.

Monitors: ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" (3, I have an Eyefinity setup)

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 BE

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T BE

CPU cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212

GPU: GIGABYTE Radeon HD 6970

PSU: CORSAIR 650W

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series CL7 4GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231303

SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Callisto Deluxe 2.5" 40GB SATA II MLC SSD

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB 7200 RPM

All the temperatures are fine so it's not overheating.

I've uninstalled drivers, I've installed the latest drivers multiple times. Used Driver sweep in safe mode as well.

I've Updated the BIOs on the motherboard.

Happens with just one monitor running too.

I've messed around with the vcore voltages, DRAM voltages, and north bridge voltages, still no success.

Thanks a lot if you can.


I can tell that your CPU voltage is too high for stock. There is zero need to give a 1090T 1.475 volts at 3.6 Ghz. I'd suggest just disabling turbo core, and jump the multiplier up to equal 3.6 Ghz, and drop the voltage down to about 1.325-1.35 volts, and you should be quite safe there.

I also noticed your CPU/NB frequency is a little high. I run mine around 2250, as my board really does not want to do better. Stock is 2000. Your chipset voltage is high for not overclocking: I use 1.2 volts for running a 250Mhz base clock, and I may be able to lower it.

Finally...disable any spread spectrum you can. I find that crap always makes for an unstable system.


----------



## Blitz6804

The northbridge frequency is a function of the chip, not the board. If your computer cannot run faster than 2250 MHz, blame the 1090T, not the UD5. As to NB (chipset) voltage, I run that bone stock, only overvolting the CPU and the CPU-NB. For the record, my northbridge runs at 2760 MHz on 1.300 V.


----------



## polynomialc

Blitz - couple questions for you, ive been using settings you posted 100+ thread pages back for a few months with near 100% stable. trying to get 4ghz stable if the temps stay decent.

ive been testing using your oc' mem settings - 7-8-8-25-1t-33 pretty straight forward.. the 5-10-5-4 is where i have some questions

im looking for the values you use for 
TwTr Command Delay [ ]
Write Recovery [ ]
Precharge Time [ ]
Row Cycle Time [ ]
RAS to RAS Delay [ ]


----------



## Blitz6804

TwTr Command Delay is 5, Write Recovery Time is 10, Precharge Time is 5, and RAS to RAS delay is 4. Row Cycle Time, or tRC, is the 33 on 7-8-8-25-1T-33.


----------



## mobeious

what memory slots should i be runnin with 2 sticks ? white slots or blue slots


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have a v2.0 (blue, blue, white, white), white. If you have a v2.1 (blue, white, blue, white), personal preference.


----------



## saint19

On Rev. 2.0 the white slots are for 1866MHz+ RAM or above, so, if you have that mobo with 1600MHz use the blue slots.


----------



## Blitz6804

As the blue slots "officially" only support speeds up to DDR3-1333 on a Rev 2.0, I respectfully disagree. White slots are the way to go with 2 DIMMs.


----------



## crunchie

From the manual;
Quote:


> (Note 2) To reach DDR3 1866MHz or above, you must install two memory modules and install them in the DDR3_3 and DDR3_4 memory sockets.


The white ones







.


----------



## MrTG17

Okay, I know "why would anyone want to put Windows 2000 on any new system nowadays", but I have some old software I developed in VB6 on a Win 2000 environment and would like to set up one of my hard drives with that OS just to have around. Problem is I've tried dozens of times to install it and it won't get past the "Setting Up Windows 2000" screen, it just hangs. The lights on the KB go off at this point and then nothing, Ctrl-ALt-Delete doesn't work and the system is frozen.

I've prepared several different "versions" of the install using NLite. I've tried a slipstreamed SP4 (the last update ever made to W2K), and I've added in the AMD AHCI SATA drivers. But nothing seems to help.

The closest I've gotten was to go into the BIOS and disable USB Legacy and USB Mass Storage, which then got past the "Setting Up Windows 2000" screen and actually completed (Of course, I had to use a PS2 keyboard, and there could be no mouse as there is only one PS/2 connector on the UD5). 
After rebooting, though, the install was not operational and hung looking for a mouse.

It looks like the issue is USB related, but I can't figure it out.
My NLite install versions work fine on an older MSI K9A2 Platinum board and on an ASUS AN8-SLI Deluxe board, but for some reason Win 2000 refuses to install on my Gigabyte 890FX-UD5.

So my question is has anyone ever had success putting Win 2000 on a newer GigaByte board? I've searched the internet for two days trying to find an answer but haven't had any success.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think at this point, the better bet might be to install it in a virtual hard drive via Virtualbox.


----------



## MrTG17

Blitz6804, I think you're right. I've messed with it and finally did get it installed by disabling USB in the BIOS, using an old PS2 keyboard, and then hooking up my USB mouse and keyboard and re-enabling USB after the final reboot when the install completed. It worked, but it would be hell trying to find W2K drivers for the newer hardware.

Using VirtualBox is a good idea, quick and simple, and no hardware or driver issues to mess with.

Oh, well, it was worth a try, but I'm convinced now to just use a VM if I need to work with my old code.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MrTG17*


Blitz6804, I think you're right. I've messed with it and finally did get it installed by disabling USB in the BIOS, using an old PS2 keyboard, and then hooking up my USB mouse and keyboard and re-enabling USB after the final reboot when the install completed. It worked, but it would be hell trying to find W2K drivers for the newer hardware.

Using VirtualBox is a good idea, quick and simple, and no hardware or driver issues to mess with.

Oh, well, it was worth a try, but I'm convinced now to just use a VM if I need to work with my old code.


I didn't wanted to reply on a answered question, but virtualbox is simply the way to go

I have a virtual linux server as many others Linux distros.


----------



## auriya

im having trouble with a 1090t at 4.0ghz. Running at about 43c in wow.
It BSOD in World of warcraft but not prime95(ran prime95 for 8hrs).
BSOD wa IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Can anyone help me?


----------



## Blitz6804

Sounds like your northbridge is too high. Prime95, by itself, cannot test this, and instead, you would need to run some sort of GPU load. At what speed are you running it? What CPU-NB?


----------



## auriya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12426165*
> Sounds like your northbridge is too high. Prime95, by itself, cannot test this, and instead, you would need to run some sort of GPU load. At what speed are you running it? What CPU-NB?


settings in bios are:
cpu clock x16 4000mhz
cpu nb x11 2750mhz
cpu freq :250
HT x8 2000mhz
memory x6.66 1666mhz

voltages
ram = 1.65
cpu nb = 1.25
cpu = 1.45v


----------



## Blitz6804

Try decreasing the NB to 10x or increasing the CPU-NB to 1.300.


----------



## Megatronbomb

I've got a question!









I built a new PC in December after having been a Mac user for years. Gigabyte GA-890FX-UD5 motherboard, Gigabyte 6850 graphics card, 1090T processor, 8GB RAM, and a Spinpoint F3 hard drive all in a HAF 922. I love it, but one thing has been driving me insane.

I hear a high pitched buzzing noise occasionally. It seems to be when I'm online and actively transferring data. I'm 99% certain the noise is related to data transfer, but that just seems strange to me. I can be sitting here, not hearing the noise, open Chorme and the noise starts up. Has anyone else experienced this issue or is there something else I should look for? The fans all seem quiet, if I listen I can hear the hard drive, and of course the optical drives when they're being used, but other than this buzzing type noise, the system is pretty quiet. I've kept up to date on BIOS (F6) and drivers, thinking it was maybe related to either of those, but no luck.


----------



## Mr Torture

Hi people , I'm not sure if I should flash my BIOS . I have the original F1 rev2.0 board . It says on the first page that people are getting good results from the F3 . Are their instant performance gains from using the F3 and is this recommended or should I just flash to the latest F6 or leave it as it is being F1 .
Advice would be appreciated .









Thanks for any help .

I have had this Board since May 2010 .


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Megatronbomb*


I've got a question!









I built a new PC in December after having been a Mac user for years. Gigabyte GA-890FX-UD5 motherboard, Gigabyte 6850 graphics card, 1090T processor, 8GB RAM, and a Spinpoint F3 hard drive all in a HAF 922. I love it, but one thing has been driving me insane.

I hear a high pitched buzzing noise occasionally. It seems to be when I'm online and actively transferring data. I'm 99% certain the noise is related to data transfer, but that just seems strange to me. I can be sitting here, not hearing the noise, open Chorme and the noise starts up. Has anyone else experienced this issue or is there something else I should look for? The fans all seem quiet, if I listen I can hear the hard drive, and of course the optical drives when they're being used, but other than this buzzing type noise, the system is pretty quiet. I've kept up to date on BIOS (F6) and drivers, thinking it was maybe related to either of those, but no luck.



I think is the video card been use by the browsers


----------



## polynomialc

i think it has something to do with flash websites, 'high pitched buzzing noise' i notice it when my stereo monitors are on, and not when using headphones.. its like a light buzzing, the second i close the browser it goes away. ive tried different browsers but same effect, pretty sure its from audio coding in flash plugins. not sure if there is a fix, if the buzzing/humming is not coming from your speakers could be power supply understress, i had to replace my hx620 because of constant whine sound.


----------



## Blitz6804

Try disabling hardware acceleration in Flash. I find the newer ATi cards have problems with it. (To the point where my HD 5970 would hard lock every time I watched a flash video, while my HD 2600 on the laptop did it fine.) Also Megatronbomb, if you installed it, uninstall EasyTune 6. It causes more troubles than it is worth.

Mr Torture: If you have F1, I say install F4. Gigabyte themselves say not to bother with F5 unless you want a 1070T, which is not supported by the F4 BIOS.


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12445594*
> Mr Torture: If you have F1, I say install F4. Gigabyte themselves say not to bother with F5 unless you want a 1070T, which is not supported by the F4 BIOS.


Thanks for the advise , so I will do that .
Do you know if the F4 BIOS will increase performance as it says ( Improve AMD PhenomII CPU performance & memory OC ability ) in F3 .
And F4 says ( Support new AMD SB850 version ) do you know what that means , the chip is the same so do they mean it performs better with F4 .

OK , thanks I will download F4 now .


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12445594*
> Mr Torture: If you have F1, I say install F4. Gigabyte themselves say not to bother with F5 unless you want a 1070T, which is not supported by the F4 BIOS.


Thanks for the advice I am now using the F4 .


----------



## Megatronbomb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12445594*
> Try disabling hardware acceleration in Flash. I find the newer ATi cards have problems with it. (To the point where my HD 5970 would hard lock every time I watched a flash video, while my HD 2600 on the laptop did it fine.) Also Megatronbomb, if you installed it, uninstall EasyTune 6. It causes more troubles than it is worth.


Thanks for the suggestion, but sadly, disabling hardware acceleration didn't help.


----------



## Blitz6804

What are you using for the sound card? The motherboard or your HD 6850's HDMI out?


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12445594*
> Mr Torture: If you have F1, I say install F4. Gigabyte themselves say not to bother with F5 unless you want a 1070T, which is not supported by the F4 BIOS.


Had an issue with the F4 BIOS flash disabling the AHCI setting . Changed it back in the BIOS with no success when booted even though set correctly in the BIOS . Registry editing didn't fix it and and long story short I was able to fix it by simply using a restore point .
Just thought I'd mention it in case it can help someone else .
All good now and thanks again Blitz6804 for the recommendation .


----------



## Blitz6804

No prob, but F4's stellar recommendation comes from Saint, not me, as I have never tried F4, keeping instead on F3.

And yeah, you cannot adjust the AHCI in a Windows environment without reinstalling or fiddling with low-level drivers.


----------



## Megatronbomb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


What are you using for the sound card? The motherboard or your HD 6850's HDMI out?


I'm using the motherboard's output (green jack).


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


No prob, but F4's stellar recommendation comes from Saint, not me, as I have never tried F4, keeping instead on F3.

And yeah, you cannot adjust the AHCI in a Windows environment without reinstalling or fiddling with low-level drivers.


Ok ,well thanks for passing the info on and thanks Saint for the recommendation . It's fixed a voltage issue I noticed in the past . With the core performance thing ( Turbo ) on , the voltage fluctuates from 1.275v to 1.45v as cores were going from 3.2 to 3.66 and that's why the 1.45 was happening for the 3.66GHz I assumed . But when I disabled it as it's not Helpful/Needed as far as I'm concerned the VID would sit at 1.45v @ 3.2GHz but now it's @ 1.275 like I thought it should be @ 3.2GHz . Nice ! . 
I'll over-clock when I have better cooling or at least the weather cools down here in OZ . I'll be useing this forum to learn about properly over clocking . Not that the system is lacking at the default 3.2GHz









I know what I did wrong after flashing , used the @bios app with the downloaded F4 file and followed the instructions to the letter that was my mistake , 2nd BIOS Flash I've ever done , did a DFI couple of years back . It said to during reboot hit del and select optimal setting and I did this without changing the AHCI that I did correctly for my SSD when installed OS . Ooops lol . Because the AHCI was set when I installed OS it was easily fixed with the restore-point . The OS installed incorrect drivers because of the default BIOS settings causing the issue but easily reversed . I was just about to do a fresh OS install after running out of ideas and tried the restore-point just to see , lucky , saved me heaps of time reinstalling stuff .

SO , the F4 works great for me


----------



## hylong

I have an eSATA Thermaltake Black Duet docking http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Produc...C=1346&ID=1895 hooking up to the eSATA port and AHCI enable in the BIOS.Lately, I notice after waking up from hibernation, the drives disappear. In addition, I also have 2 velocityRaptor 150GB/each connected in RAID 0 through the white connectors on the motherboard. They also disappeared. Once I restart the computer, everything is back to normal. Is anyone experience the same?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *auriya*


im having trouble with a 1090t at 4.0ghz. Running at about 43c in wow.
It BSOD in World of warcraft but not prime95(ran prime95 for 8hrs).
BSOD wa IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Can anyone help me?


Well, it's running cool..that's for sure. Mine would barely idle at that temp.

That BSOD can be NB, or even RAM. If the RAM is OC'd, not set up for solid timings, or voltage, it can cause an issue. I run my board at 250 Mhz with 1.2 volts, without issue, so I would think your voltage (1.25) is high enough.

On another topic about BIOS versions...I'm a proponent of F6, and I've been doing fine with it since it came out. F3 was next best for me. F4 nuked a hard drive. F5 I never touched. Unless my mind has gone to mush and I'm forgetting everything that's happened so far. It's been a long couple o' months.

Oh, and water cooling is almost finished...taking forever


----------



## Blitz6804

IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL usually is CPU voltage too low for the current speed.

And question auriya, what is running 43Âº C, the core? If so, you're actually running at 56Âº C or so, as the Thuban core sensor is off by approximately 13Âº C. If that is "CPU" temp, and not Core temp, disregard this part of the post.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I was getting that BSOD with a defective board and iffy RAM...even when the chip was set to stock all 'round. Replacing the board caused the iffy stick to show up. I removed it, and all BSOD stopped. I think he meant his NB temp, but not sure. If it's the CPU, then no, that's nothing spectacular.


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


On another topic about BIOS versions...I'm a proponent of F6, and I've been doing fine with it since it came out. F3 was next best for me. F4 nuked a hard drive. F5 I never touched. Unless my mind has gone to mush and I'm forgetting everything that's happened so far. It's been a long couple o' months.


How could the BIOS kill a hard drive ? . What evidence do you base that on , because if it's a fact then I would immediately change it to F6 from F4 . Are you sure it was just not a faulty hard-drive or a drive at the end of it's life .


----------



## Blitz6804

Mr Torture: Likely the same thing that happened to me. When I went to F3 to F5, it messed up my RAID 10 by ejecting a drive. Before I could rebuild it, it ejected a second one. I tried to reinstall Windows and it would not boot from the CD with F5. Once I put back F3, it reinstalled fine. This is why I have not moved from F3 since then. They might have fixed that all in F6, but I need the half-multiplier.


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Mr Torture: Likely the same thing that happened to me. When I went to F3 to F5, it messed up my RAID 10 by ejecting a drive. Before I could rebuild it, it ejected a second one. I tried to reinstall Windows and it would not boot from the CD with F5. Once I put back F3, it reinstalled fine. This is why I have not moved from F3 since then. They might have fixed that all in F6, but I need the half-multiplier.


Well that makes sense , a RAID issue . It says on Page 1 Back-up your raid before moving from F4 to F5. So clearly their are things to be aware of for the RAID aficionados , I'm not in that club as yet just got a good SSD for the OS and a couple of apps . All games on a WD Black Mechanical drive and storage on a WD Green .

Phew , well I can wipe that bead of sweat away now







. lol .


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, that post is there because of me. I was the guinea pig who tried F5, and it trashed my system as I said. Fortunately, I have a triplicate backup, so all I lost was time, no data.


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12486177*
> Yeah, that post is there because of me. I was the guinea pig who tried F5, and it trashed my system as I said. Fortunately, I have a triplicate backup, so all I lost was time, no data.


Triplicate backup !







, HardCore . Better safe than sorry I guess . It certainly paid off then .


----------



## Blitz6804

Part of it too is because I have multiple computers. Everything that is on my desktop is also on my laptop. Both computers have a live backup on their secondary hard drives, and those are both copied to the external kept in a fireproof safe. Better safe than sorry, I suppose?


----------



## Mr Torture

Sound good , especially if you have very important files e.g. work related .
Got prime 95 running right now and cpu @ 37celcius 24ambient been an hour and all good . With the other BIOS F1 it would be about 10degrees higher , now that the auto voltage is setting it too 1.275 instead if 1.45 it's running cooler . Nice


----------



## thezfunk

I believe the RAID issues had to do with the firmware upgrade the new BIOS provided to the RAID controller (F4, I think?). It really improved performance and I would move to it if at all possible.


----------



## jp74

Hello all! I just built my first rig with the UD5 and would like to be added to the owners list.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Torture;12485799*
> How could the BIOS kill a hard drive ? . What evidence do you base that on , because if it's a fact then I would immediately change it to F6 from F4 . Are you sure it was just not a faulty hard-drive or a drive at the end of it's life .


I didn't have any RAID, as Blitz did, but it basically caused a corruption in my MFT, and I had no readable information on the entire drive, which was split into 2 partitions. Fortunately I had all the data backed up, but it took a day of fighting with WHS to do a bare metal restore. I've stayed with F6 since. The only thing it lacks are half-step multipliers. But I run mine at a full multiplier anyway, so it's a moot point.


----------



## Junglebizz

It's been a long time since I posted about the UD5 issues I was having with a friends computer. I ended up convincing gigabyte that the motherboard was the problem and they took it back. I really don't know if they did anything to the board as it looks like the one I got back had the same serial # as the one I sent so they didn't give me back a different one.

I hooked everything back up and it seemed like it was running just fine. I returned it to my friend and she emailed me today saying that the issues were still happening. So the next step is to get some different ram.

Note, we are not overclocking this system, just trying to get it to be stable at stock settings, which has been an ongoing struggle since October...









What ram would you guys recommend? I would prefer to have no more than 2 sticks.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Junglebizz;12496390*
> It's been a long time since I posted about the UD5 issues I was having with a friends computer. I ended up convincing gigabyte that the motherboard was the problem and they took it back. I really don't know if they did anything to the board as it looks like the one I got back had the same serial # as the one I sent so they didn't give me back a different one.
> 
> I hooked everything back up and it seemed like it was running just fine. I returned it to my friend and she emailed me today saying that the issues were still happening. So the next step is to get some different ram.
> 
> Note, we are not overclocking this system, just trying to get it to be stable at stock settings, which has been an ongoing struggle since October...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What ram would you guys recommend? I would prefer to have no more than 2 sticks.


Go to the 1st page, there you can find the recommended RAM for the UD5


----------



## Junglebizz

Thanks saint. I know the ECO G.Skill ram is listed, but I'm going to avoid that stuff like the plague. It has caused me nothing but grief. I tried some other G.Skill from a friend of mine and had some great success. Maybe the ripjaws will be the answer.

I'm thinking the G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL Ripjaws. 1.5v and shows to be AMD 890 rated. Any thoughts? Anyone use this ram?

9-9-9-24-2N, but I don't care. I just want the system to stop blue screening, crashing, restarting, etc.


----------



## saint19

I'm using a 2x2GB kit Crucial Ballistix Tracer 8-8-8-24-2T @ 1600MHz and 1.65V.


----------



## Blueduck3285

I love my Ballistix ram. Though I have trouble with it when overclocked to high speeds, think it may actually be the Mobo not the ram though. When my system is fully overclocked to 4Ghz, I cant even get memtest to load. Downclocking my system helped to stabilize that issue.


----------



## Blitz6804

A small bit of news for you.

I had been 24/7 stable with my overclocks with an HD 5970 and a GTX 285. Since going HD 6970s with the GTX 285, I was not entirely stable like I used to be. (More on that later.) Following a lead on AMD's forum, I decided to try playing with my PCIe frequency, as I heard increasing it can lead to increased stability on systems with multiple graphics cards. (I have also heard that increasing it slightly can improve stability with high HTT settings, that is, in excess of 300.)

Prior to changing the PCIe, I was able to fold 30-50% on an SMP work unit ([email protected] of course) before I would get a blue screen related to the nVidia driver. Several attempts at a clean uninstall/reinstall did not resolve. Running my 24/7 test gambit would fail 4-6 hours in.

Now I have changed my PCIe frequency to 105 MHz, and have since been able to fold 100% of an SMP work unit without incident. One unit does not definitively prove anything, but considering I had 100% failure rate before in time, it is definitely a good start. I will keep you posted as I fold more units, and maybe some day in the near future, I might give it a go again. Anyone who has multiple graphics cards and are having stability issues, I suggest you look into it. I want to say it was Velathawen who was having problems with his triple-GPU setup.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Very interesting, Blitz. When removing drivers, did you remove the PhysX driver as well? I've had that driver cause some BSOD in the past, and is why I stopped using an Nvidia with ATI card entirely.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12515564*
> A small bit of news for you.
> 
> I had been 24/7 stable with my overclocks with an HD 5970 and a GTX 285. Since going HD 6970s with the GTX 285, I was not entirely stable like I used to be. (More on that later.) Following a lead on AMD's forum, I decided to try playing with my PCIe frequency, as I heard increasing it can lead to increased stability on systems with multiple graphics cards. (I have also heard that increasing it slightly can improve stability with high HTT settings, that is, in excess of 300.)
> 
> Prior to changing the PCIe, I was able to fold 30-50% on an SMP work unit ([email protected] of course) before I would get a blue screen related to the nVidia driver. Several attempts at a clean uninstall/reinstall did not resolve. Running my 24/7 test gambit would fail 4-6 hours in.
> 
> Now I have changed my PCIe frequency to 105 MHz, and have since been able to fold 100% of an SMP work unit without incident. One unit does not definitively prove anything, but considering I had 100% failure rate before in time, it is definitely a good start. I will keep you posted as I fold more units, and maybe some day in the near future, I might give it a go again. Anyone who has multiple graphics cards and are having stability issues, I suggest you look into it. I want to say it was Velathawen who was having problems with his triple-GPU setup.


interesting

I've read about increasing the PCI frequency, but never tried, I have ATI + Nvidia as well, but I didn't get you quite well...

when you said "overclocks", you meant CPU or GPU's overclock, this cuz you mention later about HTT link...

?


----------



## philologos

I want to share my 890FXA experience in the hope it might help someone.

In May/June 2010, I bought the components to build my first DIY computer. These included the Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 motherboard, a Phenom II X4 965 processor, and a 2x2 GB kit of Crucial 1333MHz RAM (the plain variety sans heat-spreaders).

On one of the hottest August days that summer, I used my computer for many hours doing various tasks. I installed AMD Overdrive, mainly as a system information utility, and not to replace BIOS overclocking. In fact, I had been running stock, except I had increased my CPU multiplier by one recently. Being a dangerous combination of bored and curious, I click on "auto-tune" which is supposed to dynamically overclock and stress a computer to find its optimal clocks. I never intended to keep the results, knowing the inferiority of software as opposed to BIOS overclocking, but the result was immediate system damage.

At once, my computer crashed remaining powered but lifeless with no video output. Upon resetting, I got a beep code of about 10 or 11 short beeps that repeated in a loop. A CMOS reset could not make it successfully POST. Inside my case, the power supply was conspicuously warm. Since I interpreted the error code as repeating short beeps which indicates a "power failure" according to the Gigabyte manual (which I would later learn is incomplete), I suspected my PSU was at fault.

Taking my build apart, I inspected the PSU and did find evidence of capacitor leakage. I started an RMA with SeaSonic, which was completed about as smoothly as one could hope for. Unfortunately, the new unit did not solve the problem.

Next, I removed the heat sink and examined my CPU. Sure enough, where a couple of pins were supposed to be, there was a tiny brown spot. I bought a Phenom II X6 1055T as a upgrade replacement. Yet, even that did give me a working system.

Now I suspected socket damage. I sent my motherboard to Gigabyte, only to receive it back and still not have it boot. When I called to inquire, a woman told me they had only updated the BIOS. I was not very happy at that point, but she assured me a new motherboard would be sent out with a second RMA and that they would pay for my shipping.

When I got the new board I was confident there was nothing left that could have possibly been damaged. But to my chagrin, the new motherboard behaved exactly the same as the old. I was now thoroughly baffled.

Combing through countless internet postings, I came to find out that a series of about nine to twelve short beeps actually indicated a memory error, with the exact number depending on which slots had a problem. I went on Newegg to find the cheapest memory module that should definitely work on the 890FXA-UD5. I ordered a 1 GB stick of Kingston ValueRAM.

Installing that module, I pressed the power button on the board, and heard a single short beep. That sound was like music to my ears! I went ahead and ordered the 2x2 GB kit of G.Skill ECO RAM (1600MHz, CAS7) that many people in this thread own. I had some problems running it at 1600, but it worked like a charm at 1333 with lowered timings and 1.41 volts. I assembled everything back into my case, and my system has been rock solid since.

Looking back, my first board may have been completely fine. I was a little miffed by being sent the original back from Gigabyte. Now I feel a little bad that I might have RMA'd a working board. If in fact the first board was okay, I have to say I'm quite impressed and I guess "Ultra Durable" isn't just marketing fluff.

I'll post a CPU-Z validation at some point and ask to be officially added to the club.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285*


I love my Ballistix ram. Though I have trouble with it when overclocked to high speeds, think it may actually be the Mobo not the ram though. When my system is fully overclocked to 4Ghz, I cant even get memtest to load. Downclocking my system helped to stabilize that issue.


I'm running mines at 1600MHz 8-8-8-21-1T with 1.65V, 3.8GHz on CPU and 3000MHz NB fully stable.

For overclocking I can do SuperPI 32M at 2000MHz with 11-11-11-29-2T with 1.690V


----------



## Blitz6804

UnexplodedCow: Yep, I completely uninstalled everything tangentially related to nVidia, ran a driver sweeper, and then reinstalled it all, and still BSOD. Since bumping the PCIe frequency, I have not had the problem yet.

christoph: I meant my CPU overclocks. I had proven 276x14.5 w/ DDR3-1066 (4002 MHz CPU, DDR3-1471) to be completely stable on my rig when I had my HD 5970 and the GTX 285. When I went to 2x HD 6970 and the GTX 285, it was no longer stable. Since bumping the PCIe frequency, it appears to have restored stability. I had no problem with only two PCIe graphics cards installed, the problem only resulted with three. (At all times I also had a PCIe 1x sound card installed.)


----------



## solar0987

i was looking into upgrading my motherboard with a GA-890FXA-UD5
since this is the club this is where ill ask my questions

how hard is it to get a 3000 cpu/nb and at what volts
does the sli hack work withh all of them or a little amount
and does the nb temp sensor work or does it always read 80c
how overall stable is the mb
my choice is either that mb or a crosshair


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


i was looking into upgrading my motherboard with a GA-890FXA-UD5
since this is the club this is where ill ask my questions

how hard is it to get a 3000 cpu/nb and at what volts
does the sli hack work withh all of them or a little amount
and does the nb temp sensor work or does it always read 80c
how overall stable is the mb
my choice is either that mb or a crosshair


1- I'm running it at 3000MHz with 1.325V
2- Yeah, always that you do the steps in proper way
3- The sensor works, I never see one hit the 80ÂºC, mine is ~42ÂºC
4- Pretty stable, god features and overclockg options are very good.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


interesting

I've read about increasing the PCI frequency, but never tried, I have ATI + Nvidia as well, but I didn't get you quite well...

when you said "overclocks", you meant CPU or GPU's overclock, this cuz you mention later about HTT link...

?


every time i raised my pci frequency it killed my hard drive







and i only raised it to 103


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


UnexplodedCow: Yep, I completely uninstalled everything tangentially related to nVidia, ran a driver sweeper, and then reinstalled it all, and still BSOD. Since bumping the PCIe frequency, I have not had the problem yet.


I'll keep it in mind as an option, should I ever go combo GPU again.

In other new: WATERCOOLING DONE!

I need to take pictures of the finished product. I did about a 15 minute test with Prim95 and Kombustor going together, just to check heat. Temps peaked at 34C CPU and 36C GPU after 10 minutes. I turned up the fans, and temps dropped 2C. I have not set up all fans..only the pullers. The Panaflo pushers are going in over the weekend, once I'm back home.

Chipset hits around 38C in that time (usually was high 40's or low 50's at that time). I have zero complaints so far. It's not deadly quiet, but far better than before. I'll try re-seating the chipset block to help temps out. I expect a little better performance, although it's still not bad. I'm happy with it, but know it can do more.

So yes, the UD5's weak point is most assuredly the stock heatsink.

EDIT/UPDATE:

Currently using Prime, as usual, to test temps. I've re-seated the NB block, and it's making good contact. Plenty of water flow through it, as I had previously watched when bleeding. Temp is 42C....something is amiss here. The temp should not drop 8-10C only for a northbridge that kicks out 29ish watts of heat. I'm suspecting a need for more clamping force, maybe a rework of the brackets I made, try a slight hose crimp on the VRM half.

Of course, I could be entirely wrong, and perhaps the sensor is wrong, or it's not the NB at all. 42C is better, but not by much. The rest of the temps are good. I finally peaked at 35C, which I still find pretty good lacking the extra fans. I installed the side with fans to blow into the case, so the TMPIN0 dropped to 33C, where it sits (was 38). I noticed ET6 only measures TMPIN0 and 1. I know this has been gone over before. Going to experiment more to figure out where this phantom temp is coming from.

Still quite happy overall. The silence is nice.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


I'm running mines at 1600MHz 8-8-8-21-1T with 1.65V, 3.8GHz on CPU and 3000MHz NB fully stable.

For overclocking I can do SuperPI 32M at 2000MHz with 11-11-11-29-2T with 1.690V


For some reason, I can not run my system with manual timings. If set manual timings my system wont boot. For some reason, when your in the bios looking at the settings on auto, it doesnt report a command rate, its blank. But CPU-Z shows 1T. So when I would manually set what auto had in there with a command rate of either 1T or 2T and my system still would not boot. I can set manually timings up to 3.6Ghz but to push higher I have to auto my ram. Increased v didnt help with manual timings. My ram and mobo do not seem to like each other.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philologos;12519109*
> I want to share my 890FXA experience in the hope it might help someone.
> 
> In May/June 2010, I bought the components to build my first DIY computer. These included the Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 motherboard, a Phenom II X4 965 processor, and a 2x2 GB kit of Crucial 1333MHz RAM (the plain variety sans heat-spreaders).
> 
> On one of the hottest August days that summer, I used my computer for many hours doing various tasks. I installed AMD Overdrive, mainly as a system information utility, and not to replace BIOS overclocking. In fact, I had been running stock, except I had increased my CPU multiplier by one recently. Being a dangerous combination of bored and curious, I click on "auto-tune" which is supposed to dynamically overclock and stress a computer to find its optimal clocks. I never intended to keep the results, knowing the inferiority of software as opposed to BIOS overclocking, but the result was immediate system damage.
> 
> At once, my computer crashed remaining powered but lifeless with no video output. Upon resetting, I got a beep code of about 10 or 11 short beeps that repeated in a loop. A CMOS reset could not make it successfully POST. Inside my case, the power supply was conspicuously warm. Since I interpreted the error code as repeating short beeps which indicates a "power failure" according to the Gigabyte manual (which I would later learn is incomplete), I suspected my PSU was at fault.
> 
> Taking my build apart, I inspected the PSU and did find evidence of capacitor leakage. I started an RMA with SeaSonic, which was completed about as smoothly as one could hope for. Unfortunately, the new unit did not solve the problem.
> 
> Next, I removed the heat sink and examined my CPU. Sure enough, where a couple of pins were supposed to be, there was a tiny brown spot. I bought a Phenom II X6 1055T as a upgrade replacement. Yet, even that did give me a working system.
> 
> Now I suspected socket damage. I sent my motherboard to Gigabyte, only to receive it back and still not have it boot. When I called to inquire, a woman told me they had only updated the BIOS. I was not very happy at that point, but she assured me a new motherboard would be sent out with a second RMA and that they would pay for my shipping.
> 
> When I got the new board I was confident there was nothing left that could have possibly been damaged. But to my chagrin, the new motherboard behaved exactly the same as the old. I was now thoroughly baffled.
> 
> Combing through countless internet postings, I came to find out that a series of about nine to twelve short beeps actually indicated a memory error, with the exact number depending on which slots had a problem. I went on Newegg to find the cheapest memory module that should definitely work on the 890FXA-UD5. I ordered a 1 GB stick of Kingston ValueRAM.
> 
> Installing that module, I pressed the power button on the board, and heard a single short beep. That sound was like music to my ears! I went ahead and ordered the 2x2 GB kit of G.Skill ECO RAM (1600MHz, CAS7) that many people in this thread own. I had some problems running it at 1600, but it worked like a charm at 1333 with lowered timings and 1.41 volts. I assembled everything back into my case, and my system has been rock solid since.
> 
> Looking back, my first board may have been completely fine. I was a little miffed by being sent the original back from Gigabyte. Now I feel a little bad that I might have RMA'd a working board. If in fact the first board was okay, I have to say I'm quite impressed and I guess "Ultra Durable" isn't just marketing fluff.
> 
> I'll post a CPU-Z validation at some point and ask to be officially added to the club.


haha, the same stupid thing happen to me, excatly as you said

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12521657*
> UnexplodedCow: Yep, I completely uninstalled everything tangentially related to nVidia, ran a driver sweeper, and then reinstalled it all, and still BSOD. Since bumping the PCIe frequency, I have not had the problem yet.
> 
> christoph: I meant my CPU overclocks. I had proven 276x14.5 w/ DDR3-1066 (4002 MHz CPU, DDR3-1471) to be completely stable on my rig when I had my HD 5970 and the GTX 285. When I went to 2x HD 6970 and the GTX 285, it was no longer stable. Since bumping the PCIe frequency, it appears to have restored stability. I had no problem with only two PCIe graphics cards installed, the problem only resulted with three. (At all times I also had a PCIe 1x sound card installed.)


ok, good info to keep in mind


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;12521886*
> every time i raised my pci frequency it killed my hard drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i only raised it to 103


103?

is suppose to be able to rise it up to 110 before some thing like HDD corrupt happen

what HDD do you have?


----------



## Annex

Would I see any improvement upgrading my ram to one of the member approved kits?


----------



## Zelic

Hey there, recently got this mobo + a AM3 Phenom II Quad 3.4 Black. For some reason my mobo is set to have auto shutoff of CPU @ 51 degrees, which is kinda annoying usually around that for most games after awhile of playing, tried looking in BIOS but couldn't find where to change it.

Any recommendations on a program to change the shutoff temp to 59/60 degrees or where abouts in BIOS it is? Cheers


----------



## Annex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zelic;12529950*
> Hey there, recently got this mobo + a AM3 Phenom II Quad 3.4 Black. For some reason my mobo is set to have auto shutoff of CPU @ 51 degrees, which is kinda annoying usually around that for most games after awhile of playing, tried looking in BIOS but couldn't find where to change it.
> 
> Any recommendations on a program to change the shutoff temp to 59/60 degrees or where abouts in BIOS it is? Cheers


http://www.ninjalane.com/images/ga-890fxa-ud5/bios_pchealth.jpg

You can change the warning temps and various other things in this section if you haven't already tried it.


----------



## Zelic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Annex*


http://www.ninjalane.com/images/ga-8...s_pchealth.jpg

You can change the warning temps and various other things in this section if you haven't already tried it.


Yeah I had a look in there but couldn't find which one changed the automatic PC shutoff


----------



## CHUNKYBOWSER

Sooo... Trying to overclock my 1090T once again. I tried 1.52v for 4.08ghz but I got a freeze. My processor needs 1.4v for 3.8, and 1.475v for 3.9.

Any other ideas what my problem might be? Most commonly I get a BSOD such as Driver IRQL Not Less or Equal...


----------



## Blitz6804

That BSOD usually means the CPU is too fast for a given voltage. I have noticed that, generally speaking, higher multipliers need higher voltage for a given speed. It is possible, however, that the northbridge is getting a bit too high for its voltage. What speed/voltage are you running on the NB? It would be best if you could take pictures of the appropriate page of the BIOS.


----------



## christoph

ok guys one simply question before I try something and just to have this clear

disabling Pci spread spectrum would help CPU or GPU overclock?


----------



## Blitz6804

Overall system stability.


----------



## christoph

ok, gonna try something, I hope it helps the way I want


----------



## complience

Help, help, help, help - please

I have this board am finding my system completely unstable.
Continual random application crashes, system restarts, general on going funny stuff
I am running it completely unclocked
OS: Ubuntu 10.10 32bit
BIOS:F6
CPU:AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition
Memory:G.SKill NQ Series 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 PC3-12800 1600MHz CL9 Dual Channel memory Kit - F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ

I just want system stablity don't care about performance any more
I have a feeling its voltage related because the system seems to crash more when multimedia programs are running eg: flash websites, general music

what settings should I try changing / turning off

HELP!


----------



## Blitz6804

To start with, try decreasing the memory multiplier to 6.67 (DDR3-1333). If that does not work, try decreasing the multiplier of the x4 955 by one or two steps. If you are still not stable, we will try something further from there.

Also considering flashing on BIOS F4 instead of F6, but since it is not entirely stable, it might be a gamble to try until we get it stable (at whatever speed it is stable).


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


To start with, try decreasing the memory multiplier to 6.67 (DDR3-1333). If that does not work, try decreasing the multiplier of the x4 955 by one or two steps. If you are still not stable, we will try something further from there.

Also considering flashing on BIOS F4 instead of F6, but since it is not entirely stable, it might be a gamble to try until we get it stable (at whatever speed it is stable).


totally agree

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## auriya

For some reason i can't run 2750mhz nb and 4000mhz together. Was running 1.35V on nb.
I get BSOD. I'm trying 2500 nb now with 1.25V.
I wanted my OC to be 4000/3000nb but whenever i increase the nb to 3000mhz it just freezes.


----------



## Blitz6804

I was not able to get 3000 MHz either. I believe that in my case, it is because I was trying to do it with a 12x multiplier. I find the 11x multiplier is less stable than the 10x, and I could never stabilize the 12x.


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12543860*
> To start with, try decreasing the memory multiplier to 6.67 (DDR3-1333). If that does not work, try decreasing the multiplier of the x4 955 by one or two steps. If you are still not stable, we will try something further from there.
> 
> Also considering flashing on BIOS F4 instead of F6, but since it is not entirely stable, it might be a gamble to try until we get it stable (at whatever speed it is stable).


Thanks I will try changing the multiplier and let you know

The reason I upgraded the bios to F6 was because the stock bios was just as/if not worse

Its werid.. sometimes everything seems to work fine and I think ive got it fixed
then the next time I use the machine its started misbehaving again.

Its just so random its impossible to troubleshoot.


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12543860*
> To start with, try decreasing the memory multiplier to 6.67 (DDR3-1333). If that does not work, try decreasing the multiplier of the x4 955 by one or two steps. If you are still not stable, we will try something further from there.
> 
> Also considering flashing on BIOS F4 instead of F6, but since it is not entirely stable, it might be a gamble to try until we get it stable (at whatever speed it is stable).


Okay I had a look in the bios setup but I couldn't find anything called memory Multiplier

There is a setting for the Memory Clock speed but closest allowable increase option is 6.66

However when I select this option the Bios will not boot, its completely dead, no post beeps nothing, I have to reset the CMOS from the board and start over with the default again.

Was this the correct setting?
Whats going on?


----------



## Blitz6804

Memory clock is what I meant. Strange that it doesn't work with 6.66...

What RAM do you have again? It would help if you added your system to your profile as best as you can.


----------



## complience

Okay ive updated my profile with the latest spec

Had another look at my memory settings, turned everything back to auto and then changed the multiple to 6.66

Now the system starts, but as I was running x4 before I don't think that could be the problem.


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait, so you were only running DDR3-800 and not DDR3-1600 as expected? That could be the problem right there. My computer will not even POST at DDR3-800.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12526391*
> 103?
> 
> is suppose to be able to rise it up to 110 before some thing like HDD corrupt happen
> 
> what HDD do you have?


the one in my sig 1 tb wd black


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Trying to goose the CPU to 4.0 Ghz and beyond...I'm disapointed.

It took running up to 1.425 volts (from 1.325) for a 250 Mhz bump. F6 may not be the best for OCing. At least temps are not an issue now. Temps went up 1C to 35 with the voltage/speed hike. Yes, I'm just playing with the multiplier right now. NB is 1.17 volts, base clock is 250 Mhz (has been stable at that with a lower multi). Ram is 1666 right now on 1.65 volts. I'm hoping to hit 4.25, but with the current voltage, that doesn't look like a 24/7 thing.


----------



## ToxicAdam

http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...l-support.html

Who's keeping their Gigabyte board for Bulldozer?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


http://www.overclock.net/amd-general...l-support.html

Who's keeping their Gigabyte board for Bulldozer?












It will likely be a crippled version, since AM3+ is also supposed due. I'll save my money for the next iteration AMD has to offer, provided it's (as it has been) a solid bang for the buck.


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12559454*
> Wait, so you were only running DDR3-800 and not DDR3-1600 as expected? That could be the problem right there. My computer will not even POST at DDR3-800.


Okay so running the board with the memory checked to 4.44 last night it ran perfectly.
I used it heavily webdevelopment work, streamed tv, multimedia running not a single crash.

Turned off the machine and this morning again im having problems with random applications crashing at random times for no apparent reason..


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I tried backing down the CPU speeds. It's capable of doing 3.856 Ghz on 1.344 volts. Amazing how that little hump (to 4.0 Ghz) requires such a voltage boost. Going to try for more, and maybe see if any RAM settings or whatnot may change things. I'm still hoping for 4 Ghz on a relatively low voltage, but that may be wishful thinking ultimately (much to my chagrin). I don't exactly want to go over 1.4 volts just to do that. We'll see.


----------



## JY

looks like its time for me to come here


----------



## UnexplodedCow

If you get a good one (took me sending in the board twice), I will admit it's pretty solid. It seems most of the boards are very fine, with the few exceptions. Voltage regulation is superb on this board, and it has plenty of options. Sadly, Gigabyte sorely needs to give it a solid, best-of BIOS. Perhaps F7 (if it comes out) will be just that. F6 is excellent for me, aside from no half multipliers.
The biggest downside to this board is cooling. I switched to water primarily because of it. Even then, however, the voltage regulation did not fluctuate in the least. The first board I had was the same.

On a second note; how many of you are OCing and still running C&Q? I know I've been, and it's been fine so far.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jy360*


looks like its time for me to come here










Welcome to the club







and enjoy your new mobo.


----------



## Blitz6804

UnexplodedCow: If they want Bulldozer to run on it, they will need an F7. I do not know if F7 will be any way better than F6 with Bulldozer support, however. As to your CnQ/C1E question, I have mine on, and have always had it on, regardless of what AMD I am overclocking.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I was also looking at your validation, Blitz...it seems perhaps my voltages aren't so terrible in comparison. Our chips are within 2 Mhz of each other. Bus speeds, however, aren't even close...yours is much higher.


----------



## Blitz6804

I used to run 250x16 when I had 4 GB. When I went 8 GB, it would not POST on the 6.66 divider (DDR3-1666) so I had to drop it to the 5.33 divider (DDR3-1333). In an effort to get the bandwidth higher, I dropped the multiplier and moved the bus up. Is DDR3-1472 CL7 much faster than DDR3-1333 CL6? No. Is it at least a little better? Yes. I have been chasing DDR3-1600 for a while, and have not yet caught it, however.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I guess I'm fortunate to have 1666 stable, although I'd like to get the timings tighter. However, I don't want to give up the 1T command rate. I'll likely play with it tonight and see how things go. If I can get the CAS down to 7, I'll be ecstatic, and perhaps be satisfied with 4.0 Ghz, or slightly under. The heaviest use this sees is encoding video, so the increased speed and RAM bandwidth would surely help.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


I tried backing down the CPU speeds. It's capable of doing 3.856 Ghz on 1.344 volts. Amazing how that little hump (to 4.0 Ghz) requires such a voltage boost. Going to try for more, and maybe see if any RAM settings or whatnot may change things. I'm still hoping for 4 Ghz on a relatively low voltage, but that may be wishful thinking ultimately (much to my chagrin). I don't exactly want to go over 1.4 volts just to do that. We'll see.


Your system may run on that little of voltage but doesn't mean its stable. I can boot at 4ghz with 1.375 but for complete stability, 1.475 was required. Really need to make sure youre running LinX or prime95 for 8 hours minimum.

I would run both at the same time for 12 hours.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Initial testing shows it's pretty stable. I run full tests for at least 24 hours. After about 10 years of this stuff, I've known AMD chips to fail pretty quickly, and Intel chips tend to take longer into the process to show an error. Intel took around 16 hours to show a failure, while I'd normally get a failure on an AMD chip in 45 minutes. Very rarely has it gone over that (twice that I know of), and it was inside of 2 hours. The computer also exhibited strange behavior without showing outright errors.
No worries, man...this is a very familiar end of the pool for me. I'm mostly posting results as a means of marking my experiences







.

Thank you for the concern, however.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Initial testing shows it's pretty stable. I run full tests for at least 24 hours. After about 10 years of this stuff, I've known AMD chips to fail pretty quickly, and Intel chips tend to take longer into the process to show an error. Intel took around 16 hours to show a failure, while I'd normally get a failure on an AMD chip in 45 minutes. Very rarely has it gone over that (twice that I know of), and it was inside of 2 hours. The computer also exhibited strange behavior without showing outright errors.
No worries, man...this is a very familiar end of the pool for me. I'm mostly posting results as a means of marking my experiences







.

Thank you for the concern, however.


Just trying to help. At 1.45v my cpu threw errors at the 10 hour mark. Just going by what I have learned

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Testing now with a combined load of Linpack, Prime95 Blend on all 6 cores, and 640x480 Kombustor DXD9. 3.9Ghz on 1.375 volts. I tried it on 1.345, but it failed at the 12 minute mark. It's been about a half hour without issue. Looks like getting to 4Ghz is just one of those things that takes some power :-/...efficiency and overclocking never go hand in hand.

Opinion time: who thinks I should stick with 3.75 Ghz on stock, or bump up .1 volts to go with 4.0? 3.85 is pretty good (according to some short tests last night) at 1.344. I'm wondering if I should go for the power use, or back it down and take it easier


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12575539*
> Testing now with a combined load of Linpack, Prime95 Blend on all 6 cores, and 640x480 Kombustor DXD9. 3.9Ghz on 1.375 volts. I tried it on 1.345, but it failed at the 12 minute mark. It's been about a half hour without issue. Looks like getting to 4Ghz is just one of those things that takes some power :-/...efficiency and overclocking never go hand in hand.
> 
> Opinion time: who thinks I should stick with 3.75 Ghz on stock, or bump up .1 volts to go with 4.0? 3.85 is pretty good (according to some short tests last night) at 1.344. I'm wondering if I should go for the power use, or back it down and take it easier


Less volts is better for lifespan. 3.8 has proven to be just as worth while for me as 4.0 was.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

The 200 Mhz would prove useful for video encodes, however. I'm not worried about lifespan as this thing has been running 4.0 Ghz for a few hours while gaming, and peaked at 33C. I would say temps are pretty much a non issue at this point. GPU hit 41C. Because of that, it should lengthen any lifespan this CPU has...although it's still within safe limits for AMD spec (1.425 volts is definitely not too much).


----------



## complience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *complience*


Okay so running the board with the memory checked to 4.44 last night it ran perfectly.
I used it heavily webdevelopment work, streamed tv, multimedia running not a single crash.

Turned off the machine and this morning again im having problems with random applications crashing at random times for no apparent reason..











The system is running a little better now apparently since the memory tweek, but i still get application crashes.

I suspect its not memory related, but a SATA harddrive caching issue.
Is there anything I should change with hard drive settings?


----------



## philologos

It seems there is a revision 3.0 of the UD5 as can be seen on Gigabyte's website. It has its own BIOS, but I don't notice anything physically different at first glance.

My concern is that the new revision is for Bulldozer support, and that owners of 2.x boards will be SOL.


----------



## Blitz6804

complience: You can try a different SATA port if you only have one hard drive. If you are in the blue (SB850) ports, give the white (GSATA) ports a try or vice-versa.

UnexplodedCow: I believe the voltage spec for the 1090T from AMD is 1.325 V to 1.400 V for normal usage, and up to an extra 0.075 V under boost. (For 1.475 V maximum, in theory.)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Yep, I read that as well, Blitz. However, my board loved to run at boost voltage all the time when set to auto, with Turbo mode on. Turning it off let me go down to the normal voltage when all 6 cores were in use. So, I gauge by the turbo voltage limit more than anything.

So far so good..testing since around midnight last night with Linpack, Prime on blend, and Kombustor, no errors given, no stops, crashing. I wanted to see a worst case heat scenario, and kept the room shut all night, with fans on as quiet as they could be without shutting down. The result was 39C on the CPU, and 41C on the GPU and chipset. The room was 75F by the morning (starting from 66). We've had frost here, so it's getting cold enough at night. No other heat source is in the room. I'm pleased it's at least staying that cold, although it's not particularly impressive. Turning up the fans dropped the temps 6C after ~11 minutes. The jury is still out on this OC, but I believe it's going to be stable. I'll know by midnight.


----------



## Blitz6804

I think running linpack and prime together will actually lower load. You should just run one instance of prime custom with your Kombustor. (Hit blend, then hit custom and edit memory usage to 6400 MB.) For absolute maximum temperature, get SnM and run the FPU test at 100% max load. 30 minutes of that will push the CPU higher than anything else you can toss at it.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

So far load has been at 100%, to the point where the computer has lagged on opening new programs. Task manager is pegged at a constant 100%. The load shifts between Linpack and Prime while staying at 100% overall. Kombustor is just to load up the GPU some and provide a little extra use to the chipset. I haven't yet checked memory use, which might be useful.
Still, for it to have gone this far (vs. last night's 12 minute fail trip) I'm expecting success. I OC'd the thing using only Prime on regular blend last time, and the computer never gave me an error (3.75 Ghz on 1.325 volts). The Tri-core system I have was tougher to OC, as core 3 likes to corrupt a whole lot faster than others, and refuses to go above ~ 3.6Ghz (3.0 Ghz model), but will do it on very little voltage.

I'll give S&M a try, and see if it makes a difference, but won't likely run it for a solid 24 hours. Who knows..maybe I'll break 40C load temperature.


----------



## jjceo

Hey Blitz6804,

Did you ever hear why NY got all the lawyers and New Jersey got all the toxic waste dumps and chemical plants?

New Jersey got first choice!

I used to employ a lot of Lawyers and you wouldn't believe the jokes they would tell about themselves.

Best regards,

JJCEO


----------



## Blitz6804

Personally I love lawyer jokes, but I know the ABA has asked that they not be used because they sully the profession. There is only one large problem with lawyer jokes:

Lawyers do not find them funny and no-one else thinks they are jokes!

(Quod erat demonstrandum.)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12586188*
> Personally I love lawyer jokes, but I know the ABA has asked that they not be used because they sully the profession. There is only one large problem with lawyer jokes:
> 
> Lawyers do not find them funny and no-one else thinks they are jokes!
> 
> (Quod erat demonstrandum.)


A friend of mine who's an attorney, said something very similar, and followed it up with "but some lawyers sully the profession on their own. and those who care need to calm down."

If a man is honest, and practices his profession honestly, whatever it is, I can say no wrong about him. Mind you I'm speaking metaphorically using "him" as a reference, and am not sexist (for those whose shirts are too tight).


----------



## nonamelab

GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0) has 2 x 16 Mb BIOS


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nonamelab*


GA-890FXA-UD5 (Rev. 2.1) has 2 x 16 Mb BIOS


Yeah, and so far is the only difference that I can see with both, Rev. 2.1 and Rev. 2.0


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Perhaps they realized the BIOS chips weren't large enough?

Also, Blitz, I tried S&M for 45 minutes..made no difference in CPU temps or stability for me, and is definitely no hotter than linpack on my system. It did, however, spike up the chipset voltage a lot, so I imagine that's worked very hard. I would call my system pretty stable at this point.


----------



## complience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


complience: You can try a different SATA port if you only have one hard drive. If you are in the blue (SB850) ports, give the white (GSATA) ports a try or vice-versa.)


I have two HD's but I can use only one.

Whats the difference between a sb850 and Gsata ports?

which one 'should' I be using?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Gsata is controlled by an additional chip not part of SB850. SB850 controls only the blue connectors. If the SB has issues, try the Gsata chip to troubleshoot.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12595448*
> Gsata is controlled by an additional chip not part of SB850. SB850 controls only the blue connectors. If the SB has issues, try the Gsata chip to troubleshoot.


does that chip controls the x8 PCI ex? or is it the x4?

can't remember, that's why i ask...


----------



## philologos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;12593671*
> GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0) has 2 x 16 Mb BIOS


I think that's a requirement for higher bit BIOS (64?) to enable bootable 3TB partitions for instance. Maybe they'll also give rev 3.0 a UEFI interface at some point.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12597389*
> does that chip controls the x8 PCI ex? or is it the x4?
> 
> can't remember, that's why i ask...


Nope, all the PCI-E slots are controlled by the NB. One way to note this is where the traces from the slots go...that is, toward the NB.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Nope, all the PCI-E slots are controlled by the NB. One way to note this is where the traces from the slots go...that is, toward the NB.



ah?

actually in this forum we were talking about this "issue"

that one of the pci ex gets disable when you connect something to the sata II ports, I am sure I read it in the manual, but can't find it now, and that was something we were talking about too

that something like this was written so hidden in the manual with tiny letters...


----------



## WiseAss

Actually, the manual and bios setting says it will change the one 4x pcie slot to 1x if gsata2 controller is enabled.

Sorry, where is my manners...Hello, first time posting. I have a GA-890FXA-UD7 Rev2.1 mboard. And I have always loved gigabyte components....


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiseAss;12606222*
> Actually, the manual and bios setting says it will change the one 4x pcie slot to 1x if gsata2 controller is enabled.
> 
> Sorry, where is my manners...Hello, first time posting. I have a GA-890FXA-UD7 Rev2.1 mboard. And I have always loved gigabyte components....


Yep, because some of the PCIE lanes have to be switched from the slot to the SB for more SATA bandwidth. Intel boards do this too. It does not mean, however, that the SB controls PCI-E. The SB also sends its data to NB or memory controller (on the CPU).

The GSATA chip is an outboard controller that is essentially connected via PCI-E. In effect it's a 2 drive controller Gigabyte added onto the board. It's no different than adding in a physical card to a PCI-E slot and saying the number of free lanes will decrease because the card is using them.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pali*


Update. I haven't tried the ram timings as suggested by Blitz yet but I want to share that the SLI hack worked perfectly! UD5 runs great with the two msi gtx480's. Using 0.9B version of SLI hack with nvidia 260.99 drivers.


Thanks. I plan to do this with two 560 TIs


----------



## christoph

ah ok

then is the 4x pci right? not the 8x

cuz the order of the pci is like this 16-16-4-8...?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiseAss;12606222*
> Actually, the manual and bios setting says it will change the one 4x pcie slot to 1x if gsata2 controller is enabled.
> 
> Sorry, where is my manners...Hello, first time posting. I have a GA-890FXA-UD7 Rev2.1 mboard. And I have always loved gigabyte components....


for me s the first time I buy a Gigabyte product, this time is my motherboard

always use to buy Asus, but the technical support just sucks...

and that's why I'm a Gigabyte user now


----------



## adamski

HELLO,
I have just bought a GA-890FXA-UD5 (REV2.1) motherboard their is so much to read here , what a resource an excellent idea . I look forward to building my new systems and can i have some more info on how to join the club thanks


----------



## nonamelab

They removed a capacitor on 890FXA-UD5 rev 3.0

Rev 3.0








Rev 2.1


----------



## christoph

then IF bulldozer is supported by AM3 will only be supported by revision 3.0...


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12616469*
> then IF bulldozer is supported by AM3 will only be supported by revision 3.0...


From what I have been reading, bulldozer is AM3+. Our boards are not +


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;12617131*
> From what I have been reading, bulldozer is AM3+. Our boards are not +


that's why I said "IF"

some people say that (even in this forum) bulldozer will backwards compatible with AM3 boards...

don't wanna get in that discussion, we'll see later


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12594176*
> Also, Blitz, I tried S&M for 45 minutes..made no difference in CPU temps or stability for me, and is definitely no hotter than linpack on my system. It did, however, spike up the chipset voltage a lot, so I imagine that's worked very hard. I would call my system pretty stable at this point.


You ran only the FPU test at 100% load, long test? That is the only test that really puts the spurs to the CPU in terms of temperature.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12614060*
> ah ok
> 
> then is the 4x pci right? not the 8x
> 
> cuz the order of the pci is like this 16-16-4-8...?


The expansion slots are:

1x
16x (8x)
1x
16x
4x
8x
PCI

When 8x is populated, the first 16x runs at 8x. As far as I know, the SATA ports do not change the PCIe slots any further than that. With all SATA ports enabled, and 1/16/16/8 populated, I read 1x/8x/16x/8x respectively. With 1/16/4 populated, I read 1x/16x/4x as expected.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12623130*
> You ran only the FPU test at 100% load, long test? That is the only test that really puts the spurs to the CPU in terms of temperature.
> The expansion slots are:
> 
> 1x
> 16x (8x)
> 1x
> 16x
> 4x
> 8x
> PCI
> 
> When 8x is populated, the first 16x runs at 8x. As far as I know, the SATA ports do not change the PCIe slots any further than that. With all SATA ports enabled, and 1/16/16/8 populated, I read 1x/8x/16x/8x respectively. With 1/16/4 populated, I read 1x/16x/4x as expected.


well that's the order I posted but without the pci ex and pci x1...

but I think I'm sure (somewhat) about this, when I install my Nvidia card (for Physx) in te x8, the video card won't show up in windows (nowhere) when I have the SATA II populated

If I disable the SATA II ports THEN my video card will show up in windows and usable...

we were actually complaining about Gigabyte not mentioning this with BIGGER letters being important for a lot of us that we use all the sata ports we can get

but of course, I not trying to be a troll about this, I wanna get to know more of this and if it is possible be clear on this and actually be able to use both PCI ex and SATA ports.

please prove me wrong...


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have only one GPU and one PPU, you should put the PPU in the 4x slot. The PhysX card in the 8x slot will cut the GPU down to 8x. For an HD 4890 I do not think it will be a problem, but it bares mentioning. As to the SATA II ports, I am using both of mine with my PhysX card in the 8x slot without issue.


----------



## nonamelab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12616469*
> then IF bulldozer is supported by AM3 will only be supported by revision 3.0...


Bulldozer will work if we remove a pin or drill a hole in our AM3 socket =)

View attachment 198729
View attachment 198730


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;12626996*
> Bulldozer will work if we remove a pin or drill a hole in our AM3 socket =)
> 
> View attachment 198729
> View attachment 198730


that's why i said don't want to get in that discussion, people says, not me...


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12626149*
> If you have only one GPU and one PPU, you should put the PPU in the 4x slot. The PhysX card in the 8x slot will cut the GPU down to 8x. For an HD 4890 I do not think it will be a problem, but it bares mentioning. As to the SATA II ports, I am using both of mine with my PhysX card in the 8x slot without issue.


ohhhhhhh

another thing

something is going on with this thing, I have my 4890 in the first x16 pci slot that is running at 16x

and the nvidia card in the 8x pci slot, that is running at 8x

the first pci ex is not running at 8x. OR at least that says in any soft that I use to monitor my system

gonna try to enable the sata II again with a Optical drive in those ports to make sure...


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12627239*
> ohhhhhhh
> 
> another thing
> 
> something is going on with this thing, I have my 4890 in the first x16 pci slot that is running at 16x
> 
> and the nvidia card in the 8x pci slot, that is running at 8x
> 
> the first pci ex is not running at 8x. OR at least that says in any soft that I use to monitor my system
> 
> gonna try to enable the sata II again with a Optical drive in those ports to make sure...


"The PCIEX8 slot shares bandwidth with the PCIEX16_1 slot. When PCIEX8 is populated with a PCI
Express graphics card, the PCIEX1
6_1 slot will operate at up to x8 mode."

http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-890fxa_ud5_v2.0_e.pdf

Your first PCIEX 16 should be running at half speed if your 8x slot is populated but Mine does the same thing. GPUz and any other program I use to look at my set up shows my gtx460 in my 1st 16x slot to be running at 16x and my 8800 GS in my 8x slot to be running at... 8x. How I am not sure if this is a glitch but its happened with every Fx bios I have used not to mention vista and 7. Not sure whats going on.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;12627912*
> "The PCIEX8 slot shares bandwidth with the PCIEX16_1 slot. When PCIEX8 is populated with a PCI
> Express graphics card, the PCIEX1
> 6_1 slot will operate at up to x8 mode."
> 
> http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-890fxa_ud5_v2.0_e.pdf
> 
> Your first PCIEX 16 should be running at half speed if your 8x slot is populated but Mine does the same thing. GPUz and any other program I use to look at my set up shows my gtx460 in my 1st 16x slot to be running at 16x and my 8800 GS in my 8x slot to be running at... 8x. How I am not sure if this is a glitch but its happened with every Fx bios I have used not to mention vista and 7. Not sure whats going on.


I know that

but then why is running at 16 - 8x?

gonna show you with a sreen shot


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12628111*
> I know that
> 
> but then why is running at 16 - 8x?
> 
> gonna show you with a sreen shot


So I agreed with you, mine does that too

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## polynomialc

on average what do you expect % performance gains by bulldozer vs ud5 at 4ghz?


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *polynomialc*


on average what do you expect % performance gains by bulldozer vs ud5 at 4ghz?


well stock against stock speed, they say is gonna be 50% more

but to be honest, even with the x6 at stock speed there wouldn't be a need to upgrade to a x8 even if it is a 50 % performance gain

to keep a healthy mind and a safe pocket, we gonna have to wait until a 12 core release...


----------



## polynomialc

with such few programs even using 6 cores, i would think a more advanced, higher clocked cooler running 6core cpu would be the way to go. are more cores needed at this point?


----------



## Blitz6804

The only thing I have that could even utilize 8 cores (by itself) are [email protected] SMP's BigAdv.

With how many things I do at one time, I would never complain about more cores. I do think, however, better speed or better efficiency are needed from AMD. AMD cores right now do less than equivalent Intel cores, clock-for-clock, and that has to be fixed in the near future or people will start bailing on AMD. 8, 12, hell, even 16 cores are no good to anyone if they are only half as powerful as the competitor's 4-core offering.


----------



## 633Squadron

Hi,

I really need some help from the gurus on here. One of my son's friends had this board running fine on the bench, but once installed in a case, it totally refused to POST or boot at all.

Specs are as follows.

CPU: Phenom II X6 1100T
Memory: 4Gb Mushkin Blackline 1600Mhz
Graphics: 256Mb ATI EAH 2400Pro
Board Version: 2.1
Bios Version: F4
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Pro
PSU: OCZ 600MXSP (600W)

The problem I am having is that the motherboard will not POST to a BIOS screen display at all - it powers up and the fans spin, but all I get on the LED display is '00' and no graphics displayed at all. CPU, memory and graphics cards have all been checked in other machines and are verified as working. Graphics card has been tried in 4x and 16x slots, memory is currently in slot DDR3_1, but has been tried in all memory slots separately.

I have since found that 3-pin fans work when power is applied, whereas 4-pin fans do not. This is leading me to think that the board is not getting to the POST and the CPU cores are not sending the control timing pulses for the fan control lines. What could be preventing the board from POST-ing? The '00' makes me think that somehow the bios is blank or is corrupt. Is there a way to possibly 'hotwire' the board, to bypass the main bios and boot from the backup bios at hardware level, as I can't get any displayed video at all?

Thanks


----------



## Blitz6804

If it works on a bench, but not in a case, double-check that you are not somehow shorting the board.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12634270*
> If it works on a bench, but not in a case, double-check that you are not somehow shorting the board.


This


----------



## solar0987

Anyone with a ud5 have the waterblocks for the chipset?
If so can i see a pic and a link to what you got?


----------



## Blitz6804

The only W/Ced UD5 I know about is UnexplodedCow.

Speaking of which, UnexplodedCow, your temp sensor might need to have an offset. I find my core temp is off by 13º C. If yours is the same, you would idle at 27º C, load at 49º C, which is still realy good.


----------



## christoph

About the cores needed;

I'll be honest with you guys, with this x6 that I have now, I feel in a pretty good spot right now, this is the power I was looking for a couple of years and I don't even have my cpu oveclocked...

AMD aside Intel, yes AMD is been behind Intel for several years when it comes to performance, but in prices, there's no point of comparison, I can build a whole computer with the cost of an Intel chip...

besides, we have to add the lack of 64 bits software to that, I been using 64 bits Browsers along with Flash player 64 and Java, everyone of them in beta stage, WTH, not even beta and I think not even alpha...


----------



## 633Squadron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12634270*
> If it works on a bench, but not in a case, double-check that you are not somehow shorting the board.


The board isn't even in a case now; it's out on the bench on a non-conductive surface.

I'm stumped at this point, but I'm of the opinion that I may be able to reprogram the bios on the board by wiring a JTAG interface up to it and re-program it in situ with something like OCD Commander. They must do something like this at the factory.

Has anyone on here any experience of reprogramming bioses on the board via JTAG?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


The only W/Ced UD5 I know about is UnexplodedCow.

Speaking of which, UnexplodedCow, your temp sensor might need to have an offset. I find my core temp is off by 13Âº C. If yours is the same, you would idle at 27Âº C, load at 49Âº C, which is still realy good.


The temps I'm quoting are from the board's CPU temp sensor, or TMPIN1. The core sensor reads a steady 7-8C cooler. The CPU temp on board claims 24C at idle, the Core temp reads 12-13. It can swing up to being 6 degrees cooler under load, but I've had to stop even considering it. According to the board sensor I idle around 24C, and load in the mid 30s. Chipset runs a couple degrees warmer all around, likely due to being after the CPU in the loop.

To clarify, I mean CPU as the UD5's temp sensor, and Core as the built in thermal sensor in Thuban. I did manage to take some measurements around the area, and I would say the board is pretty accurate right now. Even in a worst case scenario it's plenty cool, and quieter.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


The temps I'm quoting are from the board's CPU temp sensor, or TMPIN1. The core sensor reads a steady 7-8C cooler. The CPU temp on board claims 24C at idle, the Core temp reads 12-13. It can swing up to being 6 degrees cooler under load, but I've had to stop even considering it. According to the board sensor I idle around 24C, and load in the mid 30s. Chipset runs a couple degrees warmer all around, likely due to being after the CPU in the loop.

To clarify, I mean CPU as the UD5's temp sensor, and Core as the built in thermal sensor in Thuban. I did manage to take some measurements around the area, and I would say the board is pretty accurate right now. Even in a worst case scenario it's plenty cool, and quieter.


What components are you using for the UD5? I'd like add WC to the mobo because the temps are a little high.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I really need to post the pictures I've taken, Saint...I've had others asking, too.

CPU: EK Supreme HF Nickel/Acetal
VRM: Enzotech WMST-88 Nickel
Chipset: DangerDen MPC Universal Copper/Acetal
GPU: EK FC5970
Pumps: 2x Laing D5-B in EK white acetal serial dual D5 top.
Tubing: 1/2" ID silicone
Radiators: 1x Swiftech QP120, 2x XSPC RS240
Fans: 4x Scythe 1900 RPM 120x25mm FDB (pulling on RS240 radiators)
4x Panaflo 120x38mm 2500 RPM (pushing on RS240 radiators)
2x Silverstone FM121
Fillport with Y line for bleeding.

Just a note, EK makes a full Gigabyte AM3 board setup that was originally designed for the 790FX boards, but also fits the UD5, according to measurements I've taken. I kind of prefer the Enzotech VRM block, but the EK setup covers the VRM, NB, SB, and it's all direct fit. I had to make a couple tabs to extend the mounting ears on the Danger Den block, since it was not a direct fit. If you're handy with some end cutters, drill, and sandpaper, making some extensions is easy, and takes about 10 minutes. Overall it makes for a pretty solid build, although I highly suggest some frag tape, or using the shim sponge from the stock heatsink to keep the block a little more supported on the chipset itself, since it's open core (and tiny).

Yes, I had good temps in my system before going with water, but the chipset ran too hot for my tastes. It really requires a fan blowing directly on the VRM and NB sections, so a pancake cooler (Noctua C12P or Thermalright XP120 for example) will cool the components enough. I can also confirm it works with the 890GPA-UD3H board, which uses the same VRM/NB setup, with a standalone SB heatsink. Very little airflow is required to keep the SB cool since it outputs an extremely small amount of heat. Sadly, because of large video cards, very little room is available for the SB (another reason I didn't WC it). The max height is .5", but at least the chipset only outputs 4 watts of heat. I used an old chipset cooler from a P2 Slot 1 board, that still had some double stick tape, and then added frag tape so it would sit properly on the chipset, with the frag tape taking the place of the stock shim sponge. It holds, and with the case fans on silent, it's still around the mid 20's C, which was also confirmed by my thermometer.

I hope this helps clear up some cooling on the UD5 a little. I'd originally planned on making a customer air heatsink (I still have the pieces), but with the dremel death, I opted for water. I am very happy with the result.

The link for the EK motherboard block kit is below, for those interested.

For the copper/acrylic model:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g30c89s147

For the nickel/acetal version:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g30c89s147

I prefer acetal, as it feels more substantial, but some like the acrylic look, as well as its lower price (why I bought the chipset block in acrylic). This should answer most of your questions?


----------



## saint19

Thanks a lot man, I will try to get that kit as soon as possible, as you, I also I'm getting high temps in NB.


----------



## scmpj

question for GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5 owners

Can you fit a sound card like SB titanium HD in the first pci x 1 port ? 
Does the heatsink interfere ?

I need space for 3 x 5850 and the SB titanium hd (pci e 1.0)

Thanks


----------



## UnexplodedCow

The heatsink should not interfere since it's back cut to avoid problems with that x1 slot.


----------



## AMD a^s

Hello all Gigabyte UD5/UD7 user, IÂ´m new here


----------



## arukaen

Hai guise! Proud AMD 1090T 4.0Ghz and Gigabyte UD5 owner here! Wondering if you guyse have any good tips or tricks for the MoBo. Heres my CPU-Z (http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1697355)


----------



## Blitz6804

scmpj: I have the PCIe X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion in that slot, and I have not had any problems. The Titanium HD seems to be a little longer, so you would likely need to remove the sound card to get to the PCIe release for the top HD 5850 when you want to upgrade.


----------



## arukaen

I have these modules ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277) in BIOS everytime I try to increase the multiplier for the ram from x6.66 (1333) to (1600) I can not boot the PC.

Currently I have the RAM running @









Can anyone give me some insight as what I should do? I am using the F6 BIOS


----------



## Blitz6804

Loosen tCL, tRCD, and tRP to 9. Tighten tRC to 33. If this still does not work, try the tCR at 2T.


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12595448*
> Gsata is controlled by an additional chip not part of SB850. SB850 controls only the blue connectors. If the SB has issues, try the Gsata chip to troubleshoot.


Tried just having one HD in the Gsata chip.. exact same issues so we can rule it out.

Its really weird.. sometimes its absolutely fine then the next day its back to being its very worst again.

Changing the memory clock settings did seem to help a little but I can't be certain..

back to the drawing board im afraid.


----------



## 8thsin

what is the heatsink that has "ultra durable" written on it for?? and what is the rated temp for that component.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *complience*


Tried just having one HD in the Gsata chip.. exact same issues so we can rule it out.

Its really weird.. sometimes its absolutely fine then the next day its back to being its very worst again.

Changing the memory clock settings did seem to help a little but I can't be certain..

back to the drawing board im afraid.



My first UD5 had really random issues about freezing at POST when detecting hard drives, even if none were plugged it. It also exhibited a really, really poor throughput (2MB/S typical). I RMA'd the thing, they sent it back, I RMA'd it again, and they sent a replacement, which has been rock solid since. My only complaint is GB's utter lack of BIOS updates since the new year. Try running some HDD diagnostics, and see how it goes. Mine was the inverse of normal (random spikes to normal speed, staying low). If it doesn't get better, might as well try to RMA it and take a stab at something more stable. It's either going to be the board, the CPU, or the RAM at this point...but I still point the finger at the board (maybe I'm a tad gunshy).


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *8thsin*


what is the heatsink that has "ultra durable" written on it for?? and what is the rated temp for that component.


That's for the PWM area but I'm not sure about the temps.


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12651629*
> My first UD5 had really random issues about freezing at POST when detecting hard drives, even if none were plugged it. It also exhibited a really, really poor throughput (2MB/S typical). I RMA'd the thing, they sent it back, I RMA'd it again, and they sent a replacement, which has been rock solid since. My only complaint is GB's utter lack of BIOS updates since the new year. Try running some HDD diagnostics, and see how it goes. Mine was the inverse of normal (random spikes to normal speed, staying low). If it doesn't get better, might as well try to RMA it and take a stab at something more stable. It's either going to be the board, the CPU, or the RAM at this point...but I still point the finger at the board (maybe I'm a tad gunshy).


This is the third board ive tried, the second of model after RMA the first, they've all had strange problems I couldn't fully identify.

The only component in the whole system I havent changed is the CPU or PSU
its a blackedition so thats where my suspicions now lead


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I must've lucked out, actually getting a good one the second time







. The first one was extremely flaky, at random.

Sadly, I had to dismantle the water cooling today. The CPU block developed a clog caused by....lint. It was grayish lint, which leads me to think the spare room it was being assembled in was extremely dusty. So, all parts have been washed, rinsed with gallons of distilled water, boiled in distilled water, and finally, stuck in a plastic bag until the inline filter arrives to hopefully prevent any of this in the future. Now that it's apart, I can take better pictures of the individual pieces, how it fits together, and all of that good stuff for those who want to throw their UD5s under the drink (euphemisms and metaphors abound).


----------



## polynomialc

just finished transfering everything over from my old p180 case, into new silverstone ft02 black without window, amazing temps so far! my old p180 days are finally over.


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polynomialc;12662801*
> just finished transfering everything over from my old p180 case, into new silverstone ft02 black without window, amazing temps so far! my old p180 days are finally over.


Nice setup!


----------



## nonamelab

They just lauched GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 3.1 with AM3+ Socket.










http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3781#sp


----------



## complience

You think ive had three different faulty boards?
One of them a completely different make and model??

I'm unlucky - im not that unlucky
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12662615*
> I must've lucked out, actually getting a good one the second time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The first one was extremely flaky, at random.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;12665530*
> They just lauched GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 3.1 with AM3+ Socket.
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3781#sp


It seems Gigabyte is preferring to just make updates to the board itself, instead of actually writing a complete BIOS to take advantage of what's already on the board.

Maybe we should have a collective RMA to get the newest, just for amusement?


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;12665530*
> They just lauched GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 3.1 with AM3+ Socket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3781#sp


Do you have any idea when this was released?


----------



## bajer29

Not sure if this is a mobo or CPU problem but both my 5870s have been tested and work fine alone. When I try to cfx them I get random hangs, crashes, and freezing. Anyone else experience this with the GA-890FXA-UD5? I am using an AMD Phenom II 965 be CPU (sig rig).


----------



## Pneumo

What? Where is AM3+ support for UD7. I Want!


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;12665530*
> They just lauched GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 3.1 with AM3+ Socket.
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3781#sp


Except for the black socket and "AM3+" support I don't see other differences. I'd want this mobo if Gigabyte replace my Rev. 2.0 for free. Keep in mind that they mobo don't need say "AM3+" support to support that CPUs.


----------



## Blitz6804

bajer29: What driver version are you using? I have found anything past 10.12 unreliable.

Regards the rev 3.1 board: So it looks like we are out of luck unless AMD releases a couple of Skt AM3 Bulldozers. Like the x4 920/940 were AM2+ whereas the rest were AM3.


----------



## nonamelab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damn_Smooth;12666779*
> Do you have any idea when this was released?


Today i've checked to see if there was new downloads for my rev 2.1 and sow the rev 3.1 link under GA-890FXA-UD5 name on page.

4 days ago i saw revision 3.0 on the page wich added 2x16MB Bios and removed a capacitor.

I check weekly the download page.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12668264*
> Regards the rev 3.1 board: So it looks like we are out of luck unless AMD releases a couple of Skt AM3 Bulldozers. Like the x4 920/940 were AM2+ whereas the rest were AM3.


AMD has mentioned releasing AM3 versions, but some options being removed. After noting AM3+ and only dual channel memory, I'd imagine it won't be a missing memory controller, or less than 8 cores (unless power is an issue, which it shouldn't be). It still remains to be seen, but we will know soon enough. If AMD is keeping things on track, we should have a solid answer next month. I won't upgrade, but I'm dying to see what kind of benchmarks are thrown up vs. an OC'd Thuban.


----------



## Blitz6804

If the price is right, I would definitely go for it. With 8 cores, I could finally do BigADV folding. Although, I think I would much rather if I could find a more-powerful quad core over the octo-core. We will see what happens with Bulldozer, or else I might finally be forced to go to Intel with Socket R.


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;12668333*
> Today i've checked to see if there was new downloads for my rev 2.1 and sow the rev 3.1 link under GA-890FXA-UD5 name on page.
> 
> 4 days ago i saw revision 3.0 on the page wich added 2x16MB Bios and removed a capacitor.
> 
> I check weekly the download page.


Thanks a lot man. It sucks because I still haven't recieved the board I ordered. Now I have to try sending it back and waiting even longer to get this computer operating. If they'll even let me.


----------



## Dr Nick

Hey guys. Having some trouble with my system. I unplugged one of the front panel headers(while the system was unpowered) to test the parts for another system and afterward, my computer wouldn't POST.

I've checked the CPU and power supply with another computer and I've narrowed it down to either the motherboard(UD5) or the RAM. Anybody else had a problem like this?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


bajer29: What driver version are you using? I have found anything past 10.12 unreliable.


Latest drivers, can anyone find me a rollback to the best drivers for cfx? Sorry I know this is the wrong thread


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dr Nick*


Hey guys. Having some trouble with my system. I unplugged one of the front panel headers(while the system was unpowered) to test the parts for another system and afterward, my computer wouldn't POST.

I've checked the CPU and power supply with another computer and I've narrowed it down to either the motherboard(UD5) or the RAM. Anybody else had a problem like this?


What part of the POST is it freezing on? Or is it not even outputting to the monitor? Try a BIOS reset and see if that helps. What version are you using, anyway? Give the RAM a re-seating, it may have been bumped. Same goes to the video card.


----------



## Dr Nick

It's not even beginning POST. the CPU fan spins up for less than a second and then stops, other fans continue spinning. I'm using rev 2.0 and the motherboard speaker isn't putting out any error codes. I've reseated the RAM and it still doesn't seem to be working.

E: I decided to pull the system out of my case and troubleshoot this test-bench style. I'm not sure what I did, but it's booting properly now! Thanks for the help.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Check for something shorting the board, or PSU connection out. Reseat the PSU, PCI-E and EPS (CPU) power plugs. If it still does it, pull the EPS plug and try powering it up. If it POSTs, contact Gigabyte, because a VRM would've blown.


----------



## eys

Hey guys, I posted this weeks ago before I RMA'd my card but I recieved it the my problem still occurs but for people who didnt see it her's my problem.

Well about a month ago I put together my first build and everything has been working great so far (Fast, plays all games I throw at it greatly) except the only problem is if I play a game it will randomly shut down maybe 15-30 mins into game play to a black screen and a few seconds later and my monitors will read "No DVI signal". And then I'll have to reboot my system. Although if I get to the task manager fast enough before it completely shuts down I can get to my desktop where it will read "AMD driver has stopped responding and has recovered".

Sometimes it wont do it for a while, but other times it will do it often when I'm playing games. Although it has done it twice when I was just browsing the Internet and it then lead to the bsof only those two times.

Here are the specs.

Monitors: ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" (3, I have an Eyefinity setup)

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 BE

CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T BE

CPU cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212

GPU: GIGABYTE Radeon HD 6970

PSU: CORSAIR 650W

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series CL7 4GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231303

SSD: Mushkin Enhanced Callisto Deluxe 2.5" 40GB SATA II MLC SSD

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB 7200 RPM

All the temperatures are fine so it's not overheating.

I've uninstalled drivers, I've installed the latest drivers multiple times. Used Driver sweep in safe mode as well.

I've Updated the BIOs on the motherboard.

Happens with just one monitor running too.

And I have not over clocked any of it.

I just RMA'd my Card and yet, the problem still persists.

I don't know what else to do, right now I'n just at optimal defaults and I've also tried optimal defaults with the ram at its native settings.

Is there any BIOS settings I need to change that could cause this issue?

Thanks.


----------



## christoph

ok, the link does not work

what are your settings in bios?

did you set the rated voltage for the ram?

try adding voltage to the CPU-NB VID voltage control, put it at 1.20v


----------



## zylonite

Has anyone tried crossfire two XFX 6950 or 6970 on this board. The two PCI x16 are a bit close and might block the fan of the card on the top.

pics of my build:

http://i.imgur.com/2xP4p.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xkC2X.jpg


----------



## crunchie

Would be no different to crossfiring 2 6870's.........Very close together, but no real problem.
Top card will run hotter, but only by a few degrees.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zylonite;12713013*
> Has anyone tried crossfire two XFX 6950 or 6970 on this board. The two PCI x16 are a bit close and might block the fan of the card on the top.


I am running 2x HD 6970 (reference) + GTX 285. They are fine on stock voltage, but if you want to overvolt for massive overclocking, you will overheat.

EDIT: For example, right now doing [email protected] on all three with only a core OC on the HD 6970s gives me 73º C on the top HD 6970 (56% fan), 82º C on the sandwiched one (73% fan), and 76º C on the GTX 285 (61% fan). It should be noted that 70% fan on that middle GPU is deafening.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12714543*
> I am running 2x HD 6970 (reference) + GTX 285. They are fine on stock voltage, but if you want to overvolt for massive overclocking, you will overheat.
> 
> EDIT: For example, right now doing [email protected] on all three with only a core OC on the HD 6970s gives me 73º C on the top HD 6970 (56% fan), 82º C on the sandwiched one (73% fan), and 76º C on the GTX 285 (61% fan). It should be noted that 70% fan on that middle GPU is deafening.


is it loud with the fan at that speed?

73 degrees anf 82 isn't too much, but don't have that video card so don't know really about it, that's why I'm asking...

are those with the regular cooling fan? or are they any special series?


----------



## Blitz6804

They are reference coolers with a custom fan curve in MSI Afterburner. I believe that the reasonable safe temperature is 100º C, with potential damage caused past 110º C, but that is too darned hot in my opinion. With the fan at 58%, it is just barely louder than four Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 RPM fans. So at 73% fan...

Do not even ask about 100%. It is louder than my 7.1 surround sound.


----------



## zylonite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12717598*
> is it loud with the fan at that speed?
> 
> 73 degrees anf 82 isn't too much, but don't have that video card so don't know really about it, that's why I'm asking...
> 
> are those with the regular cooling fan? or are they any special series?


Turned up the fans to 50% and it sounds pretty loud (XFX 6950 not flashed).

I am having doubts if crossfire will be a good idea on the 2 PCI x16 slot. But then what is the point of having this MOBO if I use the PCI x8 slots for crossfire. Damn you gigabyte....


----------



## crunchie

Can always water cool them


----------



## Blitz6804

Well note please zylonite: I have a PhysX card dumping heat and blocking the lower card, raising my temperatures. I also am running at 920 core, rather than the stock 880 (or 800 in your case). Lastly, I have changed my fanspeed curve in Afterburner for temperature preference, not noise preference. Without those three, expect it to be a little quieter.

EDIT: Dropping my core to 800 MHz, and restoring "auto" fan control, I hit 86º C (at 45% fan) on the top card, 91º C (at 57% fan) on the sandwiched card in Kombustor.
At my standard 920 MHz with a custom auto fan, I hit 70º C (at 54% fan) on the top card, 78º C (at 63% fan) on the sandwiched card in Kombustor.
Comparing that to my [email protected] results, you can see what having the GTX 285 at 44º C does as compared to when it is running at 76º C.

To answer your post (infra), PhysX technically does not work with an ATi card as your primary. You have to hack the nVidia driver.


----------



## zylonite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12717961*
> Well note please zylonite: I have a PhysX card dumping heat and blocking the lower card, raising my temperatures. I also am running at 920 core, rather than the stock 880 (or 800 in your case). Lastly, I have changed my fanspeed curve in Afterburner for temperature preference, not noise preference. Without those three, expect it to be a little quieter.


I ll give that a try. thanks... Didn't know PhysX card works with AMD


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I wasn't a fan of how hot the 6970 ran, either, which is why it's water cooled. The fan was loud, but only with the woosh of air; motor noise was pretty low.

I used to run a 5850 with gts250 for physx. It worked well, but did require a driver hack (nothing very involved). I wish Nvidia would stop crippling PhysX on the CPU; we could then have even better game physics, and less power usage.


----------



## christoph

then the cooler has improve since series 4000...

hey guys, have you tried Bulletstorm game?

you guys that have ATI + Nvidia, do you know a way to activate Physx for this game?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not tried Bulletstorm, no. I have found, however, that you have to keep an older driver on your PhysX card. Some of the newer ones break PhysX on select titles. I am using 258.96 myself.


----------



## Section-9

I am planning a new GPU for my build below, 580 GTX + 450 for physX. Getting rid of ATI, will this motherboard support my new nvidia gpu's ? I know SLi is out of the question, but what about a single card + physX card solution ?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12721165*
> I have not tried Bulletstorm, no. I have found, however, that you have to keep an older driver on your PhysX card. Some of the newer ones break PhysX on select titles. I am using 258.96 myself.


thanks, I'll try with a defferent driver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Section-9;12723200*
> I am planning a new GPU for my build below, 580 GTX + 450 for physX. Getting rid of ATI, will this motherboard support my new nvidia gpu's ? I know SLi is out of the question, but what about a single card + physX card solution ?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


now, this don't know if it'll work, SLI can be done with this motherboard, so don't see why shouldn't work...


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12719076*
> I wasn't a fan of how hot the 6970 ran, either, which is why it's water cooled. The fan was loud, but only with the woosh of air; motor noise was pretty low.
> 
> I used to run a 5850 with gts250 for physx. It worked well, but did require a driver hack (nothing very involved). I wish Nvidia would stop crippling PhysX on the CPU; we could then have even better game physics, and less power usage.


IF Nvidia stops their "politics" just THEN, I'll look forward to buy Nvidia cards, I wanted to try Physx in a game, that's why I bought my 9800 GTX for a lowwww price.

Besides that I have had both video cards for gaming, I'm really not fan of Nvidia at all, I prefer ATI

Although CUDA seems to work way better than ATI stream when it comes to Encoding/decoding

maybe one day they stop fighting and maybe then we can make real use of both video cards like one for decoding and another for encoding


----------



## Blitz6804

Section-9: Single card with PhysX is no problems at all. If you wanted to SLI, you could. Someone has proven that the SLI-hack works on this board, but I do not remember who right now.


----------



## saint19

I think that Blitz6804 refers to four or five pages before this, take a look of that pages.


----------



## Section-9

Thanks for the replies guys, they are much appreciated.

Time to order them GPU's!


----------



## polynomialc

wish this worked with ud5


----------



## zylonite

Quote:



Originally Posted by *polynomialc*


wish this worked with ud5


They still haven't announced the clock speed of these CPUs so I am not yet convinced. These also have the same amount of L2 cache as the phenom x6. Last but not least who knows how these will perform with Radeon 6xxx cards. I will give it 2 years....


----------



## silbluever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Section-9;12723200*
> I am planning a new GPU for my build below, 580 GTX + 450 for physX. Getting rid of ATI, will this motherboard support my new nvidia gpu's ? I know SLi is out of the question, but what about a single card + physX card solution ?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


I am running SLI on my 890 with a pair of 560Ti's from MSI you should be able to also


----------



## silbluever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12726029*
> Section-9: Single card with PhysX is no problems at all. If you wanted to SLI, you could. Someone has proven that the SLI-hack works on this board, but I do not remember who right now.


The Hack works great on this board just make sure if you use MSI Afterburner you don't start it with Windows or it will blue screen on you. Happy SLIng


----------



## Section-9

In what slot on the board should I place the physX (ppu) card ?

Also if any other tips on getting physX card detected and up and running, I am all ears.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Section-9;12737439*
> In what slot on the board should I place the physX (ppu) card ?
> 
> Also if any other tips on getting physX card detected and up and running, I am all ears.


PCIE_1 and PCIE_2 that run at x16.

If you do the steps in the proper way, you won't have any problem to get the SLI work.


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have one GPU and a PhysX, put the GPU in the top PCIe_x16, and the PhysX card in the PCIe_x4. That is, the first and third slots respectively.

If you have two GPUs and a PhysX, put the GPUs in the PCIe_x16 slots and the PhysX card in the PCIe_x8 slot. That is, the first, second, and fourth slots respectively. The top card and the PhysX card will run at 8x, the middle card at 16x. Thus, if you have a dual-GPU card (like an HD 6990 + HD 6970), you should put the dual card in the middle slot for best bandwidth, even if it will run even hotter.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *silbluever*


The Hack works great on this board just make sure if you use MSI Afterburner you don't start it with Windows or it will blue screen on you. Happy SLIng










I can't get the SLI hack to work...

The patch installed correctly and have the SLI prompt when I restart..but when I go into the Nvidia control panel and apply SLI the control panel crashes.









I'm running bios F4 with 266.66 Nvidia driver


----------



## silbluever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam;12741734*
> I can't get the SLI hack to work...
> 
> The patch installed correctly and have the SLI prompt when I restart..but when I go into the Nvidia control panel and apply SLI the control panel crashes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running bios F4 with 266.66 Nvidia driver


Did u SLIPatch with Version 0.9b or 1.0Final?

You need to use the final version which will work with 266.66 drivers and newer
http://www.slipatch.com/download/SLIPatch_v1.0_final.exe


----------



## blackalphabet

where to check my board's revision ?

been using F1 bios for this board OC'ed @ 3.8 . no issues whatsoever.

would a bios update be recommended ? or leave as is ?


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


where to check my board's revision ?

been using F1 bios for this board OC'ed @ 3.8 . no issues whatsoever.

would a bios update be recommended ? or leave as is ?


F3, seems to be the better one when it comes to OC


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *silbluever*


Did u SLIPatch with Version 0.9b or 1.0Final?

You need to use the final version which will work with 266.66 drivers and newer
http://www.slipatch.com/download/SLI...v1.0_final.exe


Got it!!!

I downloaded the latest patch. I was using 0.9b which kept crashing Nvidia's control panel.










Benchmark Test

Without SLI










With SLI


----------



## complience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *complience*


This is the third board ive tried, the second of model after RMA the first, they've all had strange problems I couldn't fully identify.

The only component in the whole system I havent changed is the CPU or PSU 
its a blackedition so thats where my suspicions now lead


I am now starting to think this is related to how the board handles memory.
I saw an small improvement after it was checked to 4.44

Now I have removed one stick of the ram so im only running x2bg stick
and again its improved greatly - I still get application crashes & slowness
but about 90% less.

Any ideas what I need to do for a 100% reliable system?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


where to check my board's revision ?


Looking at the board with the socket at the top, the PCIes at the bottom, you will see small white text that says "REV X.X" in the bottom-left corner. To the left of the screw hole down there.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


where to check my board's revision ?

been using F1 bios for this board OC'ed @ 3.8 . no issues whatsoever.

would a bios update be recommended ? or leave as is ?


Hi.

Check the picture:


----------



## Blitz6804

Exciting news for all ATi folders:

[email protected] v7.xx will be supporting OpenCL. And furthermore, [email protected] v7.xx is coming out in the near future. Currently, ATi cards fold on Brook. They get terrible PPD usage as compared to nVidia cards. (My GTX 285 folds 6.1 PPD/MHz, 12 mW/PPD. My HD 6970s fold 5.1 PPD/MHz, 48 mW/PPD. However, I think there is no argument to be had that the HD 6970 is vastly superior than the GTX 285, even without crossfire running.) It should be noted that even as shoddy as the ATis are, they are better than CPU folding. My Thuban gets 0.05 PPD/MHz, 145 mW/PPD.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Exciting news for all ATi folders:

[email protected] v7.xx will be supporting OpenCL. And furthermore, [email protected] v7.xx is coming out in the near future. Currently, ATi cards fold on Brook. They get terrible PPD usage as compared to nVidia cards. (My GTX 285 folds 6.1 PPD/MHz, 12 mW/PPD. My HD 6970s fold 5.1 PPD/MHz, 48 mW/PPD. However, I think there is no argument to be had that the HD 6970 is vastly superior than the GTX 285, even without crossfire running.) It should be noted that even as shoddy as the ATis are, they are better than CPU folding. My Thuban gets 0.05 PPD/MHz, 145 mW/PPD.


This is excellent news! I've been waiting an update for ATI cards since about Oct. '09. It only took an extra year and a half. Sometimes my inner conspiracy theorist comes alive, and I wonder if Nvidia lined some pockets in order to slow software progress, keeping Nvidia's edge in folding, allowing for more sales. Yes, I know at least 2 people who've bought Nvidia because they're faster at folding.


----------



## Blitz6804

And what is worse, not only is the ATi less efficient, it just folds poorer. My HD 6970s together put out less PPD (9600) than the GTX 285 (10500).


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Exactly. I'm very surprised this much time was required for solid ATI support, especially with their performance per watt. Again, conspiracy theory. Once it's out, however, I'd love to see some good, old-fashioned Nvidia/ATI fold-a-thon/benchmarks.


----------



## Blitz6804

The is one small caveat emptor: once Core 16 becomes mainstream, they will be killing off Core 11. That means as of that date, anything older than the HD 5xxx will be incapable of folding anymore. (The HD 2xxx/3xxx lack OpenCL; the HD 4xxx doesn't do OpenCL well enough.) Supposedly that will happen sometime in September. So my laptop, if I still have it at that point, will not be able to GPU fold anymore. Not that it folded well in the first place, but still.


----------



## silbluever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackalphabet;12751150*
> where to check my board's revision ?
> 
> been using F1 bios for this board OC'ed @ 3.8 . no issues whatsoever.
> 
> would a bios update be recommended ? or leave as is ?


been using f5 bios on Rev 2.0 board with no problems.


----------



## TexasRho83

Putting this badboy in my new PC build in progress - so far I like what I've read about it and can't wait to see what it can do


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TexasRho83;12774906*
> Putting this badboy in my new PC build in progress - so far I like what I've read about it and can't wait to see what it can do


Good choice and welcome to the club.


----------



## complience

Quote:



Originally Posted by *complience*


Tried just having one HD in the Gsata chip.. exact same issues so we can rule it out.

Its really weird.. sometimes its absolutely fine then the next day its back to being its very worst again.

Changing the memory clock settings did seem to help a little but I can't be certain..

back to the drawing board im afraid.


I now believe these errors are being caused by an IRQ conflict issue
but I can't identify what hardware is the source, I fear its the CPU


----------



## WiseAss

CPU can't cause IRQ conflict! Devices use an IRQ to interrupt the cpu when it needs stuff processed, and even then it follows some sort of que with different priority.


----------



## WiseAss

U are using ubuntu with an nvidia card right? are you using the proprietary nvidia drivers?


----------



## WiseAss

Sorry for all the post's. Organising my thoughts…. I am no expert in Linux but have you checked Xorg.log? Maybe your problem is OS related and not hardware related......vga does do quite a bit of work when working with multimedia stuff.....


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *complience;12790954*
> I now believe these errors are being caused by an IRQ conflict issue
> but I can't identify what hardware is the source, I fear its the CPU


AH?

Ubuntu, sorry didn't see that before

check the drivers for the chipset, OR what's best check ubuntu kernel, update it, didn't support the 890 chipset before, don't know if now supports it, it has to...


----------



## complience

Thanks for all the ideas,

Ive had this problem with either Nvida or ATI cards attached, with proprietary or nonproprietary drivers running on both cards (I originally suspected it was a graphic card problem so heavily tested)

I'm no linux expert (or anything other sort) but when you say 'chipset' you mean the chipset on the motherboard?

How do find drivers for my chipset and update them?
I think i've looked for them before on the gigabyte website and they don't have any listed for linux.


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiseAss;12803025*
> CPU can't cause IRQ conflict! Devices use an IRQ to interrupt the cpu when it needs stuff processed, and even then it follows some sort of que with different priority.


Eitherway, I've swapped out just every part on this system other than the CPU and I definitely see repeated IRQ issues in the logs.

Interestingly one of the major problems with this system is it will not shutdown after a system halt request (the ultimate Interrupt request)

I believe the CPU is effectively ignoring certain IRQ requests - causing this and general applications to randomly crash


----------



## Blitz6804

Have you tried unplugging all unnecessary devices? Try the system with a CPU, one DIMM of RAM, a hard drive, and a keyboard. Everything else removed. Also disable the sound, USB3, and Firewire in your BIOS. IRQ errors usually occur when you have two things trying to use the same IRQ. Sometimes it is a PCI/PCIe conflict. Sometimes it is a USB/USB conflict. Sometimes it is somewhere in between.


----------



## christoph

is the motherboard chipset.

try updating everything in ubuntu

apt-get update or upgrade, whatever gets you updates

or try looking for a kernel update in package manager


----------



## complience

Upon Shut down it will sometimes give me the IRQ number ID of the process that is causing trouble I see an error somthing like below

Disabling IRQ#19
no body cared try booting with the 'IRQpolling option'
(ata_bmdma_interrupt+0x0/0x210)

the problem is I don't know for sure what IRQ 19 refers to
ata_bmd might be harddrive I guess?


----------



## Blitz6804

complience: What setting do you have your SATA set to? Legacy IDE? AHCI? RAID? If IDE, try AHCI.


----------



## WiseAss

Perhaps you should try adding the irqpoll "switch" in grub config file? edit the /etc/default/grub file I think. Depending on boot loader.

Or like "christoph" said, if you update and recompile latest kernel, it should have latest modules for amd 800 series chipset.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *complience;12814283*
> Upon Shut down it will sometimes give me the IRQ number ID of the process that is causing trouble I see an error somthing like below
> 
> Disabling IRQ#19
> no body cared try booting with the 'IRQpolling option'
> (ata_bmdma_interrupt+0x0/0x210)
> 
> the problem is I don't know for sure what IRQ 19 refers to
> ata_bmd might be harddrive I guess?


Did you try in another SATA port?


----------



## WiseAss

complience, I found a reported bug on the ubunto site which sounds similar to your problem....no solution posted though...

https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/linux/+bug/694825


----------



## Thorn-Blade

I have something unsual for everyone. I did some testing while ago to see who much difference Cool n Quite made on actual power consumption, and I didn't expect the results I got.

Test done on Sig Rig.

Test #1 - (OC'ed to 4 GHz core @ 1.328 volts - Cool n Quiet Enabled)
--- Kill A Watt style tester ---
- 204 W - Max boot up
- 140 W - Idle at desktop (Clocked down to 1000 MHz @ 1.328 V)
- 274 W - Max at desktop using Handbrake (4000 MHz @ 1.392 V)
--- CPUID Monitor ---
- 60 W min CPU only at idle.
- 141.6 W max CPU only with Handbrake.

Test #2 - (OC'ed to 4 GHz core @ 1.328 volts - Cool n Quiet Disabled)
--- Kill A Watt style tester ---
- 204 W - Max boot up
- 143 W - Idle at desktop (4000 MHz @ 1.392 V)
- 274 W - Max at desktop using Handbrake (4000 MHz @ 1.392 V)
--- CPUID Monitor ---
- 141.6 W min CPU only at idle.
- 141.6 W max CPU only using Handbrake.

There is a 81.6 W difference with Cool n Quite enabled shown with CPUID Hardware Monitor, but the Kill A Watt tester doesn't show any difference in total watts used. Any ideas?

Edit: Corrected Max voltage with CnQ enabled.


----------



## Blitz6804

I cite experimental error. I have noticed a much more significant impact than that. (Not a major one, but more significant.) When I tested with my Deneb processor, I saved 35 W at idle, 26 W typical between CnQ being on and being off. Approximately $5.48/year the day I did my computations.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

I thought it was a miscalculation on my part to start with too, but I can watch the Kill A Watt meter and there is no difference between when the PROC down clocks to 1000 MHz. I can sit here and watch it, and no change on the meter at all.

There is an instant change in the meter when I crank up Handbrake though.


----------



## Blitz6804

Part of the problem is that this board does not downvolt completely or properly. It drops to 1.376 V in my case under idle, 1.440 V under load. When I had the Deneb on my DFI, it did 1.136 V idle, 1.360 V load.

Before I go to bed though I will double check with my Thuban to see what the difference is from the outlet.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Ok I can see that, but there is an 81.6 W difference in CPUID. I would think I should see this on the meter.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Part of the problem is that this board does not downvolt completely or properly. It drops to 1.376 V in my case under idle, 1.440 V under load. When I had the Deneb on my DFI, it did 1.136 V idle, 1.360 V load.

Before I go to bed though I will double check with my Thuban to see what the difference is from the outlet.


That issue is entirely due to turbo mode being on. I disabled it for my 1090T, and voltages started working properly with C&Q. I blame the BIOS for the problems, but I have a propensity for doing so anyway.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thorn-Blade*


Ok I can see that, but there is an 81.6 W difference in CPUID. I would think I should see this on the meter.


CPUID cant be totally trusted for its power results. Its like using CPUID to check your 12v+ or 5v lines to see if your PSU is running correctly. External hardware testing devices will be best. I would trust kill a watt over CUPID anyday. Its not really CPUID's fault, the boards arent really designed to report extremely accurate numbers from PSU's (Yes I realize your testing the wattage draw on your cpu with QnQ on/off but it still stands to reason it wont be as accurate as an extertal hardware device).


----------



## Blitz6804

My turbo is off UnexplodedCow.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

I was curious so I cranked up AMD Overdrive.

Overdrive = 1.23 v
CPUID = 1.33 v
CPU-Z = 1.33 v

I was really hoping this technology worked. I wanted to use it in a HTPC.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thorn-Blade*


I was curious so I cranked up AMD Overdrive.

Overdrive = 1.23 v
CPUID = 1.33 v
CPU-Z = 1.33 v

I was really hoping this technology worked. I wanted to use it in a HTPC.


The technology does work, its just not as dramatic as you may have thought. Power wise, the cpu is more efficent with all 6 cores on as power per watt is lower than if your running 4 cores disabled. Its really not too much different (with my own findings) with QnQ enabled/disabled. It really didnt matter much from a thermal or electric stand point if I had it on, the system ran the same. The 95w x6's would probably have given you better results.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yeah, HWMonitor clearly lies.

Idle (1104 MHz @ 1.376 V): 61.20 W in HWMon; 313 W from the outlet
Load (4002 MHz @ 1.472 V): 141.60 W in HWMon; 333 W from the outlet

Turbo is turned off, for the record. As you can see, to only drop 100 mV from maximum to minimum multiplier is pathetic compared to my other platforms. The problem: I do not know whether to yell at the 1090T or the 890FXA-UD5. My Deneb on my DFI was 1.312 V stock and 1.035 V idle, if I remember right.


----------



## christoph

I always wanted to know how much is the computer cost in energy terms per hour

do you guys have a "specifications table" to follow or something like that?


----------



## WiseAss

Just remember 1 thing, cpuid shows the estimated cpu wattage only and it's based on spec, not measured at all.

Just for interest sake, my phenom 9 955 C2 shows 1.000V in CPUID hwmon when coolnquite enabled and pc is idling. I only overclock to 3.6GHz with 1.36V, and it shows when under load.


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12833896*
> Yeah, HWMonitor clearly lies.
> 
> Idle (1104 MHz @ 1.376 V): 61.20 W in HWMon; 313 W from the outlet
> Load (4002 MHz @ 1.472 V): 141.60 W in HWMon; 333 W from the outlet


But you did get a 20 W drop when CnQ kicked in. If you look at my numbers, I got 3. I was also in the mind set to take the highest number, but for idle I should have taken the lowest number off the meter. I will check again this evening. I think I may also load the BIOS defaults to see what it does with them.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12832698*
> My turbo is off UnexplodedCow.


Maybe that's a function of the BIOS revision the board is currently set up with.


----------



## Blitz6804

I know with the earlier BIOSes (F1, specifically) it did not undervolt at all; always sat at your high-speed voltage regardless of where the multiplier was. (Not to mention that Core0 liked to get stuck at 4x while the rest would clock up and down.)

Thorn-Blade: Should be higher; it not undervolting is holding it back. Maybe I will give K10Stat another go...

christoph: That is simple enough. Find out how many watts your rig uses with a Kill-a-Watt or similar. Divide that by 1000 W/KW to convert that to KW/hr. Then multiply that by the current going rate of power sold by your electric company.

If you want to be lazy, I think the Kill-a-Watt can tell you how many KW/hr you have used since you turned it on. Turn it on in the morning and start a timer. At the end of the day, check the KW/hr and multiply that by the going rate per KW/hr in your area. That will tell you how much it cost to operate the computer for the day. Divide by the number of hours the rig was on, and you know how much it cost per hour. (This method is better in that it averages all loads during the day whereas the other method might be artificially inflated or deflated depending on load.)


----------



## Thorn-Blade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12834456*
> I always wanted to know how much is the computer cost in energy terms per hour
> 
> do you guys have a "specifications table" to follow or something like that?


I am currently borrowing one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882715001&cm_re=kill_a_watt-_-82-715-001-_-Product

You can take that unit to get Watts or kWatts per hour. If you use Watts, you can plug it into this formula.

wattage x hours used ÷ 1000 x price per kWh = cost of electricity

Which is sourced from here http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/cost.html

So my idle is right at 140W. If I plug that into the formula I get this.

140 W x 24 hours ÷ 1000 x .097 = 32 cents per day x 28 days (Short month) = $9.12 per month to run my machine at idle.

If I were running handbrake 24/7 it would cost me $17.86 per month (28 days).


----------



## jjceo

I am using F3. I just installed new memory. GSKILL F3-12800CL9-GBRL and I am using 4 sticks for 16 GIG total. In order to get them to work I have to boost the NB to 2600 MHz, increase the CPU core voltage to 1.5 VDC and use
9, 9, 9, 24 timing.

I am wondering if using a new BIOS might lower my CPU core voltage. Is anyone else seeing the same issues with this memory. I am also not able to undertime the latency at all without getting the Blue Screen of Death.


----------



## ht_addict

Will the older revisions of this board support the new AM3+ chips? I sent of a message to Gigabyte and they said a BIOS is in the works. ANyone else hear something?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;12844588*
> I am using F3. I just installed new memory. GSKILL F3-12800CL9-GBRL and I am using 4 sticks for 16 GIG total. In order to get them to work I have to boost the NB to 2600 MHz, increase the CPU core voltage to 1.5 VDC and use
> 9, 9, 9, 24 timing.
> 
> I am wondering if using a new BIOS might lower my CPU core voltage. Is anyone else seeing the same issues with this memory. I am also not able to undertime the latency at all without getting the Blue Screen of Death.


F3 and F4 are very recommended.

You need more voltage if you want change the CL of the RAM for a better one but with all RAM slot full out I think that is a problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;12846754*
> Will the older revisions of this board support the new AM3+ chips? I sent of a message to Gigabyte and they said a BIOS is in the works. ANyone else hear something?


No, only the Rev. 3.1 officially support the AM3+ CPUs plus AMD says that AM3 socket will not suppor the AM3+ CPUs.


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12814381*
> complience: What setting do you have your SATA set to? Legacy IDE? AHCI? RAID? If IDE, try AHCI.


Currently I run Native IDE for OnChip SATA
and IDE for GSATA & ESATA

which one should I change?


----------



## complience

changed all the sata settings I found.. no change in my shut down problem
Also tried deactiving sata 3.0 support - again no change

Tried adding the irqpoll switch - again no change.

The only thing that was partially sucessfull was deactivating apci within the linux kernal, if I do this upon shutdown it sucessfully halts the system, however the motherboard remains powered up..


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Thorn-Blade*


I am currently borrowing one of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-001-_-Product

You can take that unit to get Watts or kWatts per hour. If you use Watts, you can plug it into this formula.

wattage x hours used Ã· 1000 x price per kWh = cost of electricity

Which is sourced from here http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/cost.html

So my idle is right at 140W. If I plug that into the formula I get this.

140 W x 24 hours Ã· 1000 x .097 = 32 cents per day x 28 days (Short month) = $9.12 per month to run my machine at idle.

If I were running handbrake 24/7 it would cost me $17.86 per month (28 days).



thanks, I get it now, I wasn't so wrong about it...


----------



## Blitz6804

What I wonder saint19, is how Asus is claiming all of their AM3 boards will support AM3+ chips. Unless you physically rip out a pin, or drill a hole in the socket, I cannot fathom how that would work.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12850600*
> What I wonder saint19, is how Asus is claiming all of their AM3 boards will support AM3+ chips. Unless you physically rip out a pin, or drill a hole in the socket, I cannot fathom how that would work.


I'm thinking AMD isn't putting a pin in place for the early AM3+ chips, making them compatible with AM3 sockets.


----------



## Blitz6804

Specifically, maybe they will release some AM3 Bulldozers, much like they released some AM2+ Denebs.

All I know is this: if I will have to change my socket to upgrade (which is why I swapped my AM2+ board for this one, so I wouldn't need to upgrade when Bulldozer comes out), I might switch to the evil side of the fence.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12850652*
> Specifically, maybe they will release some AM3 Bulldozers, much like they released some AM2+ Denebs.
> 
> All I know is this: if I will have to change my socket to upgrade (which is why I swapped my AM2+ board for this one, so I wouldn't need to upgrade when Bulldozer comes out), I might switch to the evil side of the fence.


I have to agree with this opinion, Blitz, because I've spent enough time and money on AM3 systems, it would be a shame to have to replace the boards just to upgrade the CPU. However, since my secondary system has an Asus board that is on the list for BIOS upgrades, I will at least know if Asus is accurate in their statement. Once the price of a new Bulldozer is known, I may purchase it, although I will admit that I don't need the extra speed (I'm mostly chasing after lower power use).


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12850600*
> What I wonder saint19, is how Asus is claiming all of their AM3 boards will support AM3+ chips. Unless you physically rip out a pin, or drill a hole in the socket, I cannot fathom how that would work.


It's ASUS.
Quote:


> its not! Looks at, ASUS made for 3/4 years AGO Cross IV Formula with activ all socket pins (940), normaly has AM3 socket only 938 aktiv pins, because Thuban and Denebs need 938.
> And now ASUS know specifications etc and they have a few AM3 models with 940 activ pins in socket. There is the diferent. Very prudent move form ASUS.


Source: XS

Here is another source for you: http://www.presence-pc.com/actualite/Bulldozer-AM3-43003/


----------



## klaxian

Is anyone having problems setting manual RAM timings with the F6 BIOS version?

I just upgraded from F3 to F6. All my overclocking settings still function with the exception of manual RAM timings. I tried every variation of timings I could think of including setting everything to the loosest possible. Voltage changes have no effect. No manual settings work, but Auto does. Even manually setting the timings to exactly what "Auto" selected doesn't work. Gigabyte was unable to provide an explanation and is going to check with "engineering" in Taiwan, but I am skeptical. I was previously running at 1524MHz with 5-7-5-20-1T, but now Auto selects 7-7-7-16-1T. Are the new enhancements since F3 including exposing the IOMMU worth sacrificing my tighter timings?


----------



## klaxian

Does anyone have problems with the Realtek network controller or ethernet ports on our boards?

About 50% of the time when I boot or reboot my system, networking doesn't work. The system thinks that the network cables are not plugged in. The indicator LEDs near the ethernet ports are either off or blink in a strange fashion when this occurs. This problem happens on all BIOS versions and both Windows and Linux. I have tried a different cable and different router with no success. Adjusting BIOS settings doesn't help. I can finally get it working again by re-seating the cables several times or rebooting over and over.

Gigabyte wants me to test with a separate PCI network card, but I don't have one. Any ideas? Do I have to RMA the board? Thanks!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Klaxian, I haven't tried setting manual timings beyond that of stock, although command rate adjustments work fine. I was talking about it with someone at work today regarding RAM timings...sounds like I might have to jump on this.
As for your network issues, I'm wondering if your board might have problems. My first board gave some issues like that, but not nearly as often. It sounds like Gigabyte should RMA the board, but is trying to escape such a situation. A separate card will help determine if it's the computer, or your network hardware. You don't need another NIC if you have a spare machine with ethernet. Run it on the same wire and router (switch?) port your UD5 is currently using, reboot, and run some tests.

Sometimes a "green" switch, or overheating router (I've had issues with D-Links multiple times) may cause issues, as well as wonky IP ranges, or DHCP errors being the offenders. If you've never had it working, I'd suggest your network hardware or settings. If it has worked in the past, and gave problems, perhaps Windows settings, or OS decay, but very possibly the board. Mine gave the biggest problems when resuming from hibernation. Rebooting was iffy, where I usually got a BSOD anyway (usually got one from hibernating over 24 hours, too).


----------



## klaxian

Thanks for your suggestions UnexplodedCow! I'm thinking that I should RMA the board, but it's just such a hassle and I'd hate to be without it for weeks...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12858319*
> A separate card will help determine if it's the computer, or your network hardware. You don't need another NIC if you have a spare machine with ethernet. Run it on the same wire and router (switch?) port your UD5 is currently using, reboot, and run some tests.


I have already tried a different wire and router. The network problems happen on both Windows and Linux (dual boot). It happens with both ports and with every BIOS version. It has always been spotty like this but it seems to be getting worse as time goes on. The board is about 9 months old.


----------



## christoph

using F6 here

no problems at all with manual timings and no problems with ethernet ports either

I have intalled the latest driver for my Ethernet from Realtek web site, but didn't have problems before this either...


----------



## jjceo

Klaxian

_Does anyone have problems with the Realtek network controller or ethernet ports on our boards?

About 50% of the time when I boot or reboot my system, networking doesn't work. The system thinks that the network cables are not plugged in. The indicator LEDs near the ethernet ports are either off or blink in a strange fashion when this occurs. This problem happens on all BIOS versions and both Windows and Linux. I have tried a different cable and different router with no success. Adjusting BIOS settings doesn't help. I can finally get it working again by re-seating the cables several times or rebooting over and over._

I have not had any issues with the Realtek network but I have had several on my network hubs. Even though I am using UPS systems I have had the hubs cause issues several times. (I suspect power line issues.) I unpluged the power for 30 to 60 seconds and then replugged them in and checked my cables. They worked fine after that. If you do this and still have issues then I would RMA the motherboard.

Good luck!


----------



## jjceo

It is my understanding, from what I have read, that the Bulldozer will require the AM3+ socket to use all of its featuress.

Desktop Bulldozer Processors Will Require New Platforms - AMD.
AMD Zambezi to Use AM3+ Platforms
[08/26/2010 10:58 PM]
by Anton Shilov
Advanced Micro Devices said that its next-generation desktop processors code-named Zambezi will use socket AM3+ platforms, which will be backwards compatible with the firm's existing AM3 products. While the latter is an advantage for the platform, it may be a disadvantage for eight-core processors based on Bulldozer micro-architecture.
"The existing G34 and C32 server infrastructure will support the new Bulldozer-based server products. In order for AMD's desktop offering to fully leverage the capabilities of Bulldozer, an enhanced AM3+ socket will be introduced that supports Bulldozer and is backward-compatible with our existing AM3 CPU offerings," an official from AMD said in an interview with Planet3DNow web-site.
Apparently, it was possible for AMD to make Bulldozer microprocessors compatible with existing AM3 infrastructure, but in order to do that, the company would have to sacrifice certain important features of the new core.
"When we initially set out on the path to Bulldozer we were hoping for AM3 compatibility, but further along the process we realized that we had a choice to make based on some of the features that we wanted to bring with Bulldozer. We could either provide AM3 support and lose some of the capabilities of the new Bulldozer architecture or, we could choose the AM3+ socket which would allow the Bulldozer-base Zambezi to have greater performance and capability," the official said.
The compatibility with older microprocessors allows AMD to simplify transition to the new micro-architecture and process design since the new AM3+ platform will support inexpensive chips from day one. However, such compatibility also means that AMD Zambezi processors will only support dual-channel memory controller. Considering the fact that all modern high-end Intel Core i7 processors with up to six cores feature triple-channel memory controller, it is unclear how AMD plans to "feed" eight cores of Zambezi with dul-channel DDR3 without creating bottlenecks.
AMD Bulldozer-based processor code-named Zambezi will have up to eight cores along with a new TurboCore dynamic acceleration technology. Thanks to the new micro-architecture the chip promises to be faster than existing AMD products.

Gigabyte has already started releasing new motherboards with AM3+ sockets in preparation for the Bulldozer CPU.

Gigabyte starts selling Socket AM3+ motherboards for Bulldozer
Motherboards | 2011/03/18 07:58 | Anton Karmehed
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Gigabyte has now started selling its new Socket AM3+ motherboards on the Japanese market. Gigabyte has gone the way of ASUS and used the 8 series of chipsets and one of the motherboards is Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.1) that supports the coming AMD FX.
AMD will launch its new AMD FX family of processors in Q2 2011 and the first processors are expected to appear on the market in June. Based on the new Bulldozer architecture the chips will require the new Socket AM3+ platform to work. Even if AMD will launch the new 9 series of chipsets for Socket AM3+ both ASUS and Gigabyte have made sure they have motherboards sporting 8 series chipsets ready for the new processors.

Gigabyte has updated the box graphics and specifications to show the new support for AMD FX, even if the name of the name of the processor series isn't mentioned, just Socket AM3+. Other manufacturers are expected to follow where ASRock has already launched its 890GM Pro3 R2.0 with the new AM3+ socket.

Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.1) comes with a black processor socket that supports the new AM3+ processors and memory frequencies up to DDR3-2000 through overclocking. This is a new feature that is lacking with GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 2.0).
ASUS has revealed that it has been anticipatory and support the new AMD FX processors with all revisions of multiple AMD 8 series motherboards. Gigabyte's new AM3+ motherboards are based on AMD 890FX chipset.

Source: Akiba


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;12868219*
> It is my understanding, from what I have read, that the Bulldozer will require the AM3+ socket to use all of its featuress.
> 
> Desktop Bulldozer Processors Will Require New Platforms - AMD.
> AMD Zambezi to Use AM3+ Platforms
> [08/26/2010 10:58 PM]
> by Anton Shilov
> Advanced Micro Devices said that its next-generation desktop processors code-named Zambezi will use socket AM3+ platforms, which will be backwards compatible with the firm's existing AM3 products. While the latter is an advantage for the platform, it may be a disadvantage for eight-core processors based on Bulldozer micro-architecture.
> "The existing G34 and C32 server infrastructure will support the new Bulldozer-based server products. In order for AMD's desktop offering to fully leverage the capabilities of Bulldozer, an enhanced AM3+ socket will be introduced that supports Bulldozer and is backward-compatible with our existing AM3 CPU offerings," an official from AMD said in an interview with Planet3DNow web-site.
> Apparently, it was possible for AMD to make Bulldozer microprocessors compatible with existing AM3 infrastructure, but in order to do that, the company would have to sacrifice certain important features of the new core.
> "When we initially set out on the path to Bulldozer we were hoping for AM3 compatibility, but further along the process we realized that we had a choice to make based on some of the features that we wanted to bring with Bulldozer. We could either provide AM3 support and lose some of the capabilities of the new Bulldozer architecture or, we could choose the AM3+ socket which would allow the Bulldozer-base Zambezi to have greater performance and capability," the official said.
> The compatibility with older microprocessors allows AMD to simplify transition to the new micro-architecture and process design since the new AM3+ platform will support inexpensive chips from day one. However, such compatibility also means that AMD Zambezi processors will only support dual-channel memory controller. Considering the fact that all modern high-end Intel Core i7 processors with up to six cores feature triple-channel memory controller, it is unclear how AMD plans to "feed" eight cores of Zambezi with dul-channel DDR3 without creating bottlenecks.
> AMD Bulldozer-based processor code-named Zambezi will have up to eight cores along with a new TurboCore dynamic acceleration technology. Thanks to the new micro-architecture the chip promises to be faster than existing AMD products.
> 
> Gigabyte has already started releasing new motherboards with AM3+ sockets in preparation for the Bulldozer CPU.
> 
> Gigabyte starts selling Socket AM3+ motherboards for Bulldozer
> Motherboards | 2011/03/18 07:58 | Anton Karmehed
> | E-mail | Print | Comments (0)
> 
> Gigabyte has now started selling its new Socket AM3+ motherboards on the Japanese market. Gigabyte has gone the way of ASUS and used the 8 series of chipsets and one of the motherboards is Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.1) that supports the coming AMD FX.
> AMD will launch its new AMD FX family of processors in Q2 2011 and the first processors are expected to appear on the market in June. Based on the new Bulldozer architecture the chips will require the new Socket AM3+ platform to work. Even if AMD will launch the new 9 series of chipsets for Socket AM3+ both ASUS and Gigabyte have made sure they have motherboards sporting 8 series chipsets ready for the new processors.
> 
> Gigabyte has updated the box graphics and specifications to show the new support for AMD FX, even if the name of the name of the processor series isn't mentioned, just Socket AM3+. Other manufacturers are expected to follow where ASRock has already launched its 890GM Pro3 R2.0 with the new AM3+ socket.
> 
> Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.1) comes with a black processor socket that supports the new AM3+ processors and memory frequencies up to DDR3-2000 through overclocking. This is a new feature that is lacking with GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 2.0).
> ASUS has revealed that it has been anticipatory and support the new AMD FX processors with all revisions of multiple AMD 8 series motherboards. Gigabyte's new AM3+ motherboards are based on AMD 890FX chipset.
> 
> Source: Akiba


Any chance the older revision boards could be sent to have socket replaced with the new AM3+ for a small fee?


----------



## Blitz6804

Knowing Gigabyte? No chance in heck.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;12870815*
> Any chance the older revision boards could be sent to have socket replaced with the new AM3+ for a small fee?


hahahaha oh man, that would've be awesome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12870900*
> Knowing Gigabyte? No chance in heck.


yeah, you have your answer here...

and I didn't quite understand the review above...

to be or not to be??


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Sometimes when I start the computer the post screen comes up with lines through it and windows won't load. It doesn't always happen, but I'd say it's about 25% of the time. I have a revision 2.1 board and am using the f6 bios. does anybody know what would cause this.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damn_Smooth*


Sometimes when I start the computer the post screen comes up with lines through it and windows won't load. It doesn't always happen, but I'd say it's about 25% of the time. I have a revision 2.1 board and am using the f6 bios. does anybody know what would cause this.


Sounds like a problem with your video card or your BIOS settings that relate to the PCI Express slots and/or Northbridge. You might want to try another card or check your BIOS settings.


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klaxian;12893501*
> Sounds like a problem with your video card or your BIOS settings that relate to the PCI Express slots and/or Northbridge. You might want to try another card or check your BIOS settings.


Thanks for the reply man, I'll check in to it when I get home.


----------



## soma1509

Currently using this board with BIOS F5 for a few months now and all seems to be ok. Heck, I almost managed to push my current CPU over 4.30GHz when New England weather was nice and frosty.

Shame that my board won't support the Bulldozer, as far as I've read. I was kind of looking forward to a CPU upgrade.

On the plus side, I am currently testing my new 16GB set of RAM with Memtest86+ 4.10. Going strong @ 1733MHz so far









Also, I am happy to chime in and say that this board works very well with the SLI hack. As long as that keeps being updated with the new drivers NVIDIA pushes out, this board will be bread and butter with some decent NVIDIA GPU's.


----------



## Junglebizz

I'm starting to get the itch to upgrade my system after a few friends have been asking me to price out systems for them. I'm not sure I want to do a full upgrade and I'm looking at what I could upgrade in the meantime. I noticed now with the rev 3.1 of the 890FXA-UD5 coming with the AM3+ socket, I could potentially upgrade my motherboard and ram (finally get on DDR3) and be ready for a future cpu upgrade when the new CPUs come out.

What I was wondering is do you guys think it is a worthwhile upgrade for me to go from a GA-MA790X-UD4P board with the SB750, to the 890FXA-UD5P rev 3.1 with the SB850 and from DDR2 to DDR3?

I still will want to overclock my system as much as I can and hopefully this will help speed up my system a bit and prepare me for a future cpu upgrade.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Junglebizz;12918173*
> I'm starting to get the itch to upgrade my system after a few friends have been asking me to price out systems for them. I'm not sure I want to do a full upgrade and I'm looking at what I could upgrade in the meantime. I noticed now with the rev 3.1 of the 890FXA-UD5 coming with the AM3+ socket, I could potentially upgrade my motherboard and ram (finally get on DDR3) and be ready for a future cpu upgrade when the new CPUs come out.
> 
> What I was wondering is do you guys think it is a worthwhile upgrade for me to go from a GA-MA790X-UD4P board with the SB750, to the 890FXA-UD5P rev 3.1 with the SB850 and from DDR2 to DDR3?
> 
> I still will want to overclock my system as much as I can and hopefully this will help speed up my system a bit and prepare me for a future cpu upgrade.


yes it is

you'll only need the DDR3 ram and you're all set...

you can even go higher with this motherboard as is has 8 phases against the 4 that has the motherboard you currently own


----------



## Junglebizz

I suppose I just have to find out if I can even get a 3.1 revision yet. I also have a friend looking for a system so maybe I can offload my mobo/DDR2 to him in favour of this upgrade









I'm thinking of pairing the board with this: G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM

I put some of the G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL in my friends computer (the one I posted about a while back that was having issues with BSODs on the GSkill ECO ram) and it works like a charm now, so I figure why not go with the lower latency model!


----------



## killeraxemannic

Hey guys do you think 66deg c is too hot for the NB tmpin 2 temp under stress testing for my board?


----------



## soma1509

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*


Hey guys do you think 66deg c is too hot for the NB tmpin 2 temp under stress testing for my board?


That's way too hot, period. I found out that my CPU acts much better when it stays below 60C all around.

Also, I thought TMPIN2 was the CPU-NB, not the board's NB(?)
Either way, that is still way too hot for operating temperature.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soma1509*


That's way too hot, period. I found out that my CPU acts much better when it stays below 60C all around.

Also, I thought TMPIN2 was the CPU-NB, not the board's NB(?)
Either way, that is still way too hot for operating temperature.


It says on the OP of the thread that tmpin2 is nb temp. My cpu stays under 55 so its not getting hot but my NB is


----------



## soma1509

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*


It says on the OP of the thread that tmpin2 is nb temp. My cpu stays under 55 so its not getting hot but my NB is










That is very odd. My TMPIN2 temperature is usually about 5C lower than my CPU temperature. Then again, I try not to rely on those readings too much because my particular quirk with this board is that every time I run Prime95 or any stress test program for a while, my temp readings sometimes go haywire. Like at one point my CPU temp spiked 95C for a second, even though that is certainly not correct!

This happens whether I use Speedfan or HWMonitor. AIDA64 [formally known as Everest] so far has been a reliable temperature monitor for me.

I would say try pointing a fan towards the MoBo northbridge and see if that cools it down for the sake of testing, but seeing as that heatsink is already hard to reach with any aftermarket CPU cooler, that will be a test of patience.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic;12922423*
> It says on the OP of the thread that tmpin2 is nb temp. My cpu stays under 55 so its not getting hot but my NB is


How is your case at moving air? I would agree about trying to get some airflow on your NB. It shouldnt be that high. What is your temp zero hitting?


----------



## Blitz6804

killeraxemannic: What is your CPU reading (TMPIN1) and core at the same time? Ambient? If only the NB is ridiculously high, you might have an air pocket or the NB sink is slightly disconnected.


----------



## christoph

TMP2 is the CPU not the NB...

anyway 66 is too hot, you should improve the airflow in your case


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12926455*
> TMP2 is the CPU not the NB...
> 
> anyway 66 is too hot, you should improve the airflow in your case


my case has better airflow than any case on the market I am pretty sure

it has 3 240 mm fans, 1 140mm fan and 3 120 mm fans....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12924323*
> killeraxemannic: What is your CPU reading (TMPIN1) and core at the same time? Ambient? If only the NB is ridiculously high, you might have an air pocket or the NB sink is slightly disconnected.


TMPIN1 reads 52deg and core is about 43 deg


----------



## killeraxemannic

Screenies.

The cooler one is after an hour of gaming

the hot one is after 30 min of OCCT


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic;12926798*
> Screenies.
> 
> The cooler one is after an hour of gaming
> 
> the hot one is after 30 min of OCCT


Am I reading it wrong or does that say 67C for your NB?


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen;12926857*
> Am I reading it wrong or does that say 67C for your NB?


no you are reading it right that is why I originally posted because I think its way too hot


----------



## soma1509

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic;12926798*
> Screenies.


Those are some very odd results. Mind sharing your current voltage settings in the BIOS? Everything from the CPU VCore to the PLL voltages would be great to know.

In my case, since I have ridiculous fans, I can't really compare my temps to yours. My readout SS is below while running Prime95 for a while. It doesn't run any hotter than that at the moment while my fans spin around 2200RPM.

How are your fans currently set up?

If nothing else works, then perhaps the NB heatsink may be losing contact with the chip.


----------



## vdzero

Hi.
I just bought the GA 890fx ud5 mobo with the AMD 1090T, 4GB DDR3 PC12800 CORSAIR CMP4GX3M2A1600C9 corsair 700w GS psu and have an old nvidia 9500gt 512mb video card.My case is a thermaltake v3 with a back fan.

Now everything is stock haven't touch anything in bios.
In HW monitor my temps are around 40-43 for CPU and 30-32 cores when idle or browsing and with prime test for a few min i get around 53-55 for CPU 50ish for NB and 45-48 cores.
Now I ask are does temp healthy?
I've seen lower ones with sock coolers also on some post the cpu power was around 58W min and picking 139W. My cpu power is always at 141W no matter if i idle or play games.Is that a factor is my temp readings and if yes how to modify it?


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soma1509;12927086*
> Those are some very odd results. Mind sharing your current voltage settings in the BIOS? Everything from the CPU VCore to the PLL voltages would be great to know.
> 
> In my case, since I have ridiculous fans, I can't really compare my temps to yours. My readout SS is below while running Prime95 for a while. It doesn't run any hotter than that at the moment while my fans spin around 2200RPM.
> 
> How are your fans currently set up?
> 
> If nothing else works, then perhaps the NB heatsink may be losing contact with the chip.


Here is a pic of my bios with my current voltages and settings.


----------



## soma1509

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic;12927251*
> Bios with my current voltages and settings.


Those voltages look pretty normal to me, though I am concerned about the CPU-NB voltage _since I don't know if that's too high or not. Nevertheless, try setting everything back to stock and run another stress test for a while. If temps still peak, it is either an airflow or a heatsink problem. Are the heatsinks warm or hot to the touch?_


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soma1509;12927398*
> Those voltages look pretty normal to me, though I am concerned about the CPU-NB voltage _since I don't know if that's too high or not. Nevertheless, try setting everything back to stock and run another stress test for a while. If temps still peak, it is either an airflow or a heatsink problem. Are the heatsinks warm or hot to the touch?_


they are warm but not too hot to keep my finger on. Also the NB temp (tmpin2) did not go over 55 deg when I was at 3.8ghz


----------



## Blitz6804

killeraxemannic: Just so you know, the temperature setting on your Thuban is broken. (They all are.) You have to add 13º C to the temperature displayed on "Core." That is, when it reads 43º C, your core is actually 56º C, which is still fine, regardless.

Now you said it did not go over 55º when at 3.8 GHz. Have you put it back now just to confirm? Not that something else changed when you changed to 3.8 GHz and we are getting a false read. Just drop your multiplier from 14 to 13 (3718 MHz) and give that a shot.

Can we get a picture of your case with the door on and off? I am really starting to think you have an air pocket.

soma1509: 1.300 V is fine for CPU-NB; stock is 1.150 V, and 1.400 V is considered the maximum "safe" voltage. That should not affect the temperature of the NB, but rather, that of the CPU.


----------



## Blitz6804

For those of you who fold, FAH 7.1.x is now in open beta. It is running fine on my HD 6970s without any configuration, but the GTX 285 keeps failing. You no longer need different clients for different types; this one central console runs Uniprocessor, SMP, or GPU. I believe there is a way to manually edit it to run all (if you are so inclined) but I have not gotten there yet. They have COMPLETELY changed the way it runs, to the point where (in theory) you will not need FAHMon or HFM anymore.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soma1509*


Those voltages look pretty normal to me, though I am concerned about the CPU-NB voltage [I have mine around 1.35V I think] since I don't know if that's too high or not. Nevertheless, try setting everything back to stock and run another stress test for a while. If temps still peak, it is either an airflow or a heatsink problem. Are the heatsinks warm or hot to the touch?


You say you have your IMC at 1.35v,what frequency is the IMC running at,and do you really nead that much voltage on the IMC,i run mine at 3.2ghz,with the same voltage.


----------



## thezfunk

As general practice for any new motherboard I am working on, I (carefully) rip off the stock board heatsinks and clean off all the thermal tape and crappy goop BS. I then carefully apply some quality product and put it all back together. It _always_ improves my temps on any VRM's, NB or SB. If that doesn't solve what I figure is too high of temps I start looking at aftermarket coolers.


----------



## soma1509

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


You say you have your IMC at 1.35v,what frequency is the IMC running at,and do you really nead that much voltage on the IMC,i run mine at 3.2ghz,with the same voltage.


Well, since I have an X4 965, that might be different. I managed to run as high as 2.8GHz so far on the IMC, though I am still tweaking. My memory is sitting at 1733MHz from 1600MHz. BIOS locks up if I put the CPU-NB voltage any lower than 1.30V. If I set the IMC frequency too high, Prime95 errors out almost immediately.

@Blitz: I just wanted to make sure I wasn't burning the chip out. Thanks for confirming.

Current speed settings:

CPU: 4.160GHz [16*260]
Mem: 1733MHz [6.66*260]
IMC: 2.860GHz [11*260]


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*


no you are reading it right that is why I originally posted because I think its way too hot


then maybe you should take a look at the TIM of the NB, and SB while you're at it...

is your Video card in the first slot?

is it too hot? too close to the NB?


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12928854*
> killeraxemannic: Just so you know, the temperature setting on your Thuban is broken. (They all are.) You have to add 13º C to the temperature displayed on "Core." That is, when it reads 43º C, your core is actually 56º C, which is still fine, regardless.
> 
> Now you said it did not go over 55º when at 3.8 GHz. Have you put it back now just to confirm? Not that something else changed when you changed to 3.8 GHz and we are getting a false read. Just drop your multiplier from 14 to 13 (3718 MHz) and give that a shot.
> 
> Can we get a picture of your case with the door on and off? I am really starting to think you have an air pocket.
> 
> soma1509: 1.300 V is fine for CPU-NB; stock is 1.150 V, and 1.400 V is considered the maximum "safe" voltage. That should not affect the temperature of the NB, but rather, that of the CPU.


I know about the temp sensors....

Here is a pic of my case










There is a 120 mm fan that blows right across the ram and should hit both the mossfet and northbridge heatsincs

Also I would like to see someone else's temps after stress testing as comparison


----------



## Blitz6804

I have an OCCT 3.1.0 Large/High 30min run in progress now. Results will post when done. So far, my NB and Core (adjusted) are within 1º C of each other at all times.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;12935786*
> I have an OCCT 3.1.0 Large/High 30min run in progress now. Results will post when done. So far, my NB and Core (adjusted) are within 1º C of each other at all times.


Large does not get it as hot. Small is where it really burns. Heres a SC of large for me


----------



## Blitz6804

At all times, ambient temperature was 19.9º C. Under idle, the case intake fan reads 19.9º C, the CPU fan reads 20.4º C. Under load, the case intake fan reads 20.5º C, the CPU intake fan reads 21.5º C.

My OCCT/HWMon readout:









OCCT's 890FX (TMPIN2) graph:









OCCT's CPU (TMPIN1) graph:









What the fan situation is; in addition to the 120x38 you see leaning against the GPUs, there is one to the right in front of the HDD bays (all of the 120x38s run at 1600 RPM):


----------



## Blitz6804

Here is some possible good news for us from Softpedia: Bulldozer chips are rumored not to have the troublesome pin that makes it impossible to insert an AM3+ CPU into an AM3 socket. Meaning if the board can supply its power (which it should) and there is a BIOS update (which we are almost certain it will not), you can use Bulldozer.

We will see...


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Good information to know, Blitz. Thank you. I noted that Bulldozer is also specified to use "up to" DDR3 1866 speed memory, which may be problematic for 2.0 boards, hence the hardware redesign. Of course, overclocking will allow that speed. The other issue with using AM3+ chips were some of the power stages the new Bulldozer will have vs. the current Phenom II lineup. A BIOS update would likely solve the latter, but the former is highly suspect to me, and because of that, I feel Gigabyte has indirectly left the enthusiast in the proverbial cold.
I will wait and see what Asus' official stance is once BIOS updates are out. I may be permanently switching back to the 890GX board if it is more apt to support Bulldozer.

Regarding the tmpin2 temperatures: those are higher than I had experienced, even in a worst case scenario. I suspect poor contact with the chipset, or an inaccurate sensor. The thermal solution is not much of one on these boards; water cooling improved things notably for me.


----------



## saint19

Good information Blitz, I hope than that can be true or AMD will lose a great compatibility advantage.


----------



## christoph

oh man, well with the new revision of this motherboard, don't think it'll happen, but, hmmm well I hope so...


----------



## Coldplayer

can someone help me out. Got a UD5 upgraded from a 770T-UD3P and i didnt really want to clock it that high until now. I used to have my 1055 at 4ghz on the 770T now the highest i can get it is 3.6ghz at stock volts.. Ive tried increaesing the volts to 1.4 and 1.425 to try to get to 3.85 (i used to have it at 4ghz on 1.4v)...but no dice. Tried putting CPU-NB voltage up. Tried upping dram voltage and loosening the ram timings. Tried going from f6 to f4 bios. Cooling is fine.

Ideas?


----------



## shajack

what is the best n better than good memory to be use with ud5...in d market for a couple of them.thanks


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shajack;12942833*
> what is the best n better than good memory to be use with ud5...in d market for a couple of them.thanks


I've had excellent times with this, although I have not overclocked it yet. I believe in the beginning of this thread/club that known compatible/good memory is listed.

Newegg is having one of their memory sales around this time, so you should be able to find something you like.


----------



## shajack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12944174*
> I've had excellent times with this, although I have not overclocked it yet. I believe in the beginning of this thread/club that known compatible/good memory is listed.
> 
> Newegg is having one of their memory sales around this time, so you should be able to find something you like.


+1 on d memory list...
does newegg ship to asean countries...may be local distro hv something similar


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer;12942755*
> can someone help me out. Got a UD5 upgraded from a 770T-UD3P and i didnt really want to clock it that high until now. I used to have my 1055 at 4ghz on the 770T now the highest i can get it is 3.6ghz at stock volts.. Ive tried increaesing the volts to 1.4 and 1.425 to try to get to 3.85 (i used to have it at 4ghz on 1.4v)...but no dice. Tried putting CPU-NB voltage up. Tried upping dram voltage and loosening the ram timings. Tried going from f6 to f4 bios. Cooling is fine.
> 
> Ideas?


Did you disable Cool'n'Quite, C1E, PCI-E Spread Spectrum and Turbo Core?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12944174*
> I've had excellent times with this, although I have not overclocked it yet. I believe in the beginning of this thread/club that known compatible/good memory is listed.
> 
> Newegg is having one of their memory sales around this time, so you should be able to find something you like.


AFAIK the AMD's IMC have problems with 4x2GB RAM kits when you overclock


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I would normally agree, Saint, but I've had two processors with this 8GB kit, and both were overclocked just fine, except the thuban is working with a 1T command rate to boot, with 8-8-8-24 timings, 1600 speed, on 1.65 volts for the memory. I can't really complain with that, and would love to see if it can do tighter timings.
I think the IMC is a luck of the draw...


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12944680*
> I would normally agree, Saint, but I've had two processors with this 8GB kit, and both were overclocked just fine, except the thuban is working with a 1T command rate to boot, with 8-8-8-24 timings, 1600 speed, on 1.65 volts for the memory. I can't really complain with that, and would love to see if it can do tighter timings.
> I think the IMC is a luck of the draw...


My Thuban is working too with 1T and 8-8-8-21. Let me know how works your overclock with that RAM kit, I'd like add another 4GB kit to my rig.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Well, I'm currently sitting at 4 Ghz on the CPU with 1.425 volts...I'd say that isn't bad for the amount of memory.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;12944940*
> Well, I'm currently sitting at 4 Ghz on the CPU with 1.425 volts...I'd say that isn't bad for the amount of memory.


What about NB?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

That's at 2500. I didn't get too frisky with it.


----------



## Coldplayer

Did you disable Cool'n'Quite, C1E, PCI-E Spread Spectrum and Turbo Core?

yes ive disabled all of them


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Spread spectrum has been disabled since 2002, when I started building computers









Turbo is also disabled since it really screws with the voltage settings for the board, and won't idle properly (never did).

C1E is disabled.

C&Q is enabled. I like the enhanced power savings, especially from overclocking. I recently checked it with a Kill a Watt, and it's around 200 watts or so at idle from the wall. Hit it with Linpack and furmark, watts jump to around 650. In the past I tried C&Q off with S939 Athlon 64 chips, and they had horrible idle, pulling around 210 watts, and around 330 watts at full burn. My how times have changed.

The turbo voltage bug is something Gigabyte should really adjust. I was able to get to 4.0 on turbo with stock voltage before, but not with all cores at the same time. Of course, turbo voltage is higher than what I'm running now.


----------



## vdzero

Hey so i come home wanted to start my pic the ambiant temp in my room was kinda low 15-16 degrees C and when i started the pc it started beeping but had no video while windows was booting after a reset everything is back to normal.A friend has the same problem with a different pc. What could be the problem?


----------



## Thorn-Blade

4 gig of G.Skill Ecos 2 x 2 @ 1600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231321&Tpk=F3-12800CL7D-4GBECO

7/8/7/24/T1

CPU Clock - x16
CPU NB Freq - x11
CPU Freq - 250

Memory Clock - x6.66

DRAM Voltage - 1.51 V
NB VID - 1.3 V
CPU Voltage - 1.4 V

Turbo and C1E disabled... Cool-n-Quiet enabled...

Idle = 1 GHz @ 1.328 V using 149 W on Kill A Watt Meter
P95 = 4 GHz @ 1.392 V using 307 W on Kill A Watt Meter

I can't go to 7/7/7/24/T1 with the above settings.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Anyone have problems with Memtest 3.5 not working? I havent really tested my ram seeing as how 3.5 fails at 48% of test one, which moves so fast I dont have time to do anything. I loaded up 3.4 and it works perfectly. Any advice?


----------



## vdzero

Can u help me with the coolers placement on a thermaltake v4.
so my psu is bottom with the ventilator pointing up,i have a rear cooler that sucks air out.So i have 2 slots for top of the case and one in front of case.If I buy one cooler how should i set it up to have a good airflow?


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vdzero;12955851*
> Can u help me with the coolers placement on a thermaltake v4.
> so my psu is bottom with the ventilator pointing up,i have a rear cooler that sucks air out.So i have 2 slots for top of the case and one in front of case.If I buy one cooler how should i set it up to have a good airflow?


Fan in the front of the case will pull cool air in. Usually, the fans in the top of a case push hot air out. Depending on if you do not have any fans in the side panel of your case, I would suggest putting a fan in the front to help draw in cool air.


----------



## vdzero

Thank you. I will buy a front vent to cool the air inside.


----------



## complience

My build is still causing me big problems
I have investigated the faults and have noticed the following
The system crashes more when I have two sticks of ram attached
I am now just running one stick for better stability (doesn't matter which stick)
Why can't the system handle two sticks?

But this is the really big alarm signal I'm seeing, the system will crash continually after a bad shutdown
(EG: turning the power off without shutting down)
Does anyone have any ideas why this should be?


----------



## complience

My build is still causing me big problems
I have investigated the faults and have noticed the following
The system crashes more when I have two sticks of ram attached
I am now just running one stick for better stability (doesn't matter which stick)
Why can't the system handle two sticks?

But this is the really big alarm signal I'm seeing, the system will crash continually after a bad shutdown
(EG: turning the power off without shutting down)
Does anyone have any ideas why this should be?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *complience;12993790*
> My build is still causing me big problems
> I have investigated the faults and have noticed the following
> The system crashes more when I have two sticks of ram attached
> I am now just running one stick for better stability (doesn't matter which stick)
> Why can't the system handle two sticks?
> 
> But this is the really big alarm signal I'm seeing, the system will crash continually after a bad shutdown
> (EG: turning the power off without shutting down)
> Does anyone have any ideas why this should be?


ok, you have a few things to follow first

the RAM voltage which I think is the common issue here

so, what specifications you have for those RAM sticks?

are these? 9-9-9-24 2? with 1.5v

I think this MOBO use 1 command rate by default, make sure you set it to 2...

and try adding voltage for the ram, like to 1.54v to begin with

check you have those settings at the bios, and check if you have what was it? CKS test enabled?, and disable it


----------



## complience

sorry about the double post (it happens when your crashing randomly every 5 minutes)

Think you could be right about RAM voltage, your specs are right
CL9-9-9-24 @ 1.5v

I could only seem to increase the voltage to a minimum 1.510 in the bios
(so this is what ive done)

I've no idea what this default command rate is your referring too
And I can't see anything about CKS testing in the bios where do I set these?
I think this MOBO use 1 command rate by default, make sure you set it to 2...


----------



## christoph

in bios in the DRAM timings page

you'll see the option 1T/2T Command timing like in here and set it to 2

http://www.motherboards.org/reviews/motherboards/2070_5.html

there's some options at the bottom, just scroll down and you see

there's an option that says something like RAM training, don't quite recall that option, but set it to bypass it

and the RAM voltage you gonna have to try at least with 1.54v, is not gonna damage nothing it actually is too little

and perhaps you gonna need to add voltage to the CPU-NB VID control but try those settings first and see how it goes...


----------



## complience

ah I see now
will let you know how i go


----------



## Lab Rat

Just purchased a UD5 & have a couple of questions.

1st: my external USB3.0 HD slows down windows start up, ive installed the latest drivers, anyone had similar problems?

2nd: Are there any full waterblocks for NB/SB & chipset I know EK have full blocks for the intel boards. Is anyone here cooling the chipsets?..Pics would be nice









Edit is ok have found: http://www.google.co.uk/#q=ek+chipset+water+blocks+amd&hl=en&sa=X&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&ei=FvmaTaLSJM2z8QPG1aDmBg&oi=product_result_group&ct=image&resnum=4&ved=0CDAQzAMwAw&biw=720&bih=399&fp=bd9f04c155202f36


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lab Rat;13007587*
> Just purchased a UD5 & have a couple of questions.
> 
> 1st: my external USB3.0 HD slows down windows start up, ive installed the latest drivers, anyone had similar problems?
> 
> 2nd: Are there any full waterblocks for NB/SB & chipset I know EK have full blocks for the intel boards. Is anyone here cooling the chipsets?..Pics would be nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit is ok have found: http://www.google.co.uk/#q=ek+chipset+water+blocks+amd&hl=en&sa=X&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&ei=FvmaTaLSJM2z8QPG1aDmBg&oi=product_result_group&ct=image&resnum=4&ved=0CDAQzAMwAw&biw=720&bih=399&fp=bd9f04c155202f36


Search this thread; I posted some links to an EK kit a month ago (at most). Currently I'm using an Enzotech VRM block and DangerDen universal chipset block for my board, and I've not heard of anyone else who's gone liquid on these, although it's been tossed about by some.


----------



## complience

Okay I've turned the DRAM voltage setting to 1.550v
and changed 1T/2T command

I'm still getting random crashes with two sticks of memory onboard.
One stick seems stable enough.

I don't even have them running in ganged mode.

any other ideas?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;12995597*
> in bios in the DRAM timings page
> 
> you'll see the option 1T/2T Command timing like in here and set it to 2
> 
> http://www.motherboards.org/reviews/motherboards/2070_5.html
> 
> there's some options at the bottom, just scroll down and you see
> 
> there's an option that says something like RAM training, don't quite recall that option, but set it to bypass it
> 
> and the RAM voltage you gonna have to try at least with 1.54v, is not gonna damage nothing it actually is too little
> 
> and perhaps you gonna need to add voltage to the CPU-NB VID control but try those settings first and see how it goes...


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *complience;13008255*
> Okay I've turned the DRAM voltage setting to 1.550v
> and changed 1T/2T command
> 
> I'm still getting random crashes with two sticks of memory onboard.
> One stick seems stable enough.
> 
> I don't even have them running in ganged mode.
> 
> any other ideas?


1.65V on RAM?


----------



## Lab Rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13007873*
> Search this thread; I posted some links to an EK kit a month ago (at most). Currently I'm using an Enzotech VRM block and DangerDen universal chipset block for my board, and I've not heard of anyone else who's gone liquid on these, although it's been tossed about by some.


Did it improve performance Unexplode, Ive never used a chipset block, but now seems a good time with an expensive board like this & 1090t OC potential.

May I ask what speed & voltage's you run your system at


----------



## complience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;13008829*
> 1.65V on RAM?


Actually ive found tweeking it down seems to make it more stable
currently running with 1.510 and its more stable.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *complience*


Actually ive found tweeking it down seems to make it more stable
currently running with 1.510 and its more stable.



the CPU NB voltage control is at default right?

try with 1.2v on it

default is 1.17, so you'll be adding like 2 notches

and the recommendation about using 1.65 is not that wrong, but your ram is at 1333 9-9-9 right

or you have them at 1600? or any other speed?

IF with the voltage added to the CPU- NB does not get stable, then it must be your ram

did you test the RAM, one stick at a time?

if you have the ram at 1600, then yeah, you gonna need 1.65v AND like 1.26v at CPU-NB cuz you have a Phenom x4 that is weaker with ram at higher speed other than 1333


----------



## Coldplayer

hmm i got 5870 crossfire and both are running on the top 2 slots but my second card is only running at 8x..ideas?

Cheers


----------



## shajack

hi guys
any ways to test the data transfer rate on the sata port...just reinstalled win7 on the ud5,should change my sig too...one other thing,F5 bios is any good?it came with the mobo...


----------



## complience

My ram is 1333 9-9-9 
Ive tried increasing the voltage to 1.65 
The system is now very unstable, its terrible.
Ive tried multiple different brands of RAM it all has similar problems

The only improvements are found if I decrease the voltage and only use a single stick at one time.

I will try playing with the NB settings next

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


the CPU NB voltage control is at default right?

try with 1.2v on it

default is 1.17, so you'll be adding like 2 notches

and the recommendation about using 1.65 is not that wrong, but your ram is at 1333 9-9-9 right

or you have them at 1600? or any other speed?

IF with the voltage added to the CPU- NB does not get stable, then it must be your ram

did you test the RAM, one stick at a time?

if you have the ram at 1600, then yeah, you gonna need 1.65v AND like 1.26v at CPU-NB cuz you have a Phenom x4 that is weaker with ram at higher speed other than 1333


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lab Rat*


Did it improve performance Unexplode, Ive never used a chipset block, but now seems a good time with an expensive board like this & 1090t OC potential.

May I ask what speed & voltage's you run your system at










Yes, temperatures went down at least 10C for the chipset. The EK kit would likely be easier to work with than the Danger Den block I use, as I had to create a couple mounting tabs to extend beyond the block's ears.

Check here to see my sig rig specs, and check the "other notes" for CPU-Z screenshots showing 3.75 and 4.0 Ghz CPU speeds. CPU voltage is obviously higher; the other voltages are slightly raised (one tick above stock). RAM is stock at 1.65V. CPU his 36C under S&M, and GPU hits 39C in Kombustor, with a +20% power profile in CCC.

My loop:
Tecnofront Axiom reservoir (just redid the loop last night, adding this, and bleeding)->
EK serial dual D5 top (with dual D5B pumps running on 12 volts, nothing fancy) ->
2x XSPC RS240 radiators (push pull fans, Y splitter off pump)->
CPU block (lines brought back together)->
VRM and Chipset blocks (used a splitter)->
Swiftech QP120 radiator (lines brought back together)->
VGA block->
Fillport tube and inline filter->
Reservoir

It's an odd loop, but cools well enough for my needs. I haven't experimented to see about lowering temps, although I was trying to keep flow high and bleed off heat from the big things (CPU and video card).

Does this help a little more?


----------



## Coldplayer

ideas on why my Crossfire is running at 16x/8x instead of 16x/16x?


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


ideas on why my Crossfire is running at 16x/8x instead of 16x/16x?


well

don't know, did you check the bios? maybe is set to run at 8x


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *complience*


My ram is 1333 9-9-9 
Ive tried increasing the voltage to 1.65 
The system is now very unstable, its terrible.
Ive tried multiple different brands of RAM it all has similar problems

The only improvements are found if I decrease the voltage and only use a single stick at one time.

I will try playing with the NB settings next



if you keep the RAM at 1333, try the CPU-NB at 1.24v or some close to that, whatever gets you stability...


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


ideas on why my Crossfire is running at 16x/8x instead of 16x/16x?


What slots are the cards running in? What cards are you crossfiring?


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


hmm i got 5870 crossfire and both are running on the top 2 slots but my second card is only running at 8x..ideas?

Cheers


Do you have a sound card or network card or similar in the bottom-most PCIe slot? When that slot is populated, the top PCIe16x drops to 8x. If so, move the card to the top PCIe1x if at all possible and you will have 16x/16x again. However, for an HD 5870, the 8x should not bother it too much, if at all.


----------



## Lab Rat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Yes, temperatures went down at least 10C for the chipset. The EK kit would likely be easier to work with than the Danger Den block I use, as I had to create a couple mounting tabs to extend beyond the block's ears.

Check here to see my sig rig specs, and check the "other notes" for CPU-Z screenshots showing 3.75 and 4.0 Ghz CPU speeds. CPU voltage is obviously higher; the other voltages are slightly raised (one tick above stock). RAM is stock at 1.65V. CPU his 36C under S&M, and GPU hits 39C in Kombustor, with a +20% power profile in CCC.

My loop:
Tecnofront Axiom reservoir (just redid the loop last night, adding this, and bleeding)->
EK serial dual D5 top (with dual D5B pumps running on 12 volts, nothing fancy) ->
2x XSPC RS240 radiators (push pull fans, Y splitter off pump)->
CPU block (lines brought back together)->
VRM and Chipset blocks (used a splitter)->
Swiftech QP120 radiator (lines brought back together)->
VGA block->
Fillport tube and inline filter->
Reservoir

It's an odd loop, but cools well enough for my needs. I haven't experimented to see about lowering temps, although I was trying to keep flow high and bleed off heat from the big things (CPU and video card).

Does this help a little more?


Yep, very nice rig too..

You never tried going above 4ghz tho right. If I did cool the chipset would want to be pushing it.. @4ghz I dont think I am really stressing the board atall. The temps are always good.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lab Rat;13022685*
> Yep, very nice rig too..
> 
> You never tried going above 4ghz tho right. If I did cool the chipset would want to be pushing it.. @4ghz I dont think I am really stressing the board atall. The temps are always good.


OCing a CPU isn't going to stress a board much beyond the VRM. OCing the bus, Hypertransport, or RAM speeds on the board will test it more. I haven't had time to truly go through and test it. I also wanted a 24/7 stable machine, and the voltage required to make it that way at 4.0 Ghz was toward the top of my comfort zone. I blame the 4 sticks of RAM for that, which was actually switched out last night, too, for some 2x4 Gskill kit, which should makes things a little easier on the memory controller.

I had tried pushing the hypertransport further, but didn't see a huge jump beyond. The bus being higher than normal is to keep C&Q enabled for better idle properties.

I won't have much time to play with it this weekend, since I'm attending a LAN, and using Tricorder (spare system that's lighter).

The primary reason I even put blocks on the board was due to them running too hot (reading over 50C with thermometer). Sure, the chipset might handle higher temps, but I don't trust it, especially where voltage regulation is concerned. The board would have run even hotter if the CPU only had been cooled. The GPU was for noise reduction. Overall I can keep things to a whisper, and be very cool, or I can turn things up full blast, hear the computer clearly through the wall, and enjoy a few degrees cooler.


----------



## Lab Rat

I kept getting BSOD when I had 8gb of ram on last mobo running @1600. Only trouble now is coil whine which is driving me even more nuts than I am already, & thats not good:sozo:


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Somehow mine is handling 8GB (I had 4x2) just fine. I'm waiting to see how the lack of 2 sticks will affect things...should be for the better.

What coil is whining in your system? Normally it isn't a problem, but coil whine is typically present in AC power, and not DC so much. It's especially the case with sealed, or wrapped/insulated inductors. Transistors have been known to squeal, too, when driven hard, which usually means a defect somewhere in the transistor.


----------



## Blitz6804

Mine also had no problems with 4x2 GB. Three GPUs continues to elude 100% stability, however.


----------



## -X3-

I'll soon get my 890FXA-UD5









What is your personal experience with this board?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13023047*
> I'll soon get my 890FXA-UD5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your personal experience with this board?


Mine has been rocky, as my first one was defective, and Gigabyte was slow on the support. The new board has been solid, although the heatsink design on this board is inferior in my opinion. Memory issues tend to be at the top of the list, and upcoming bulldozer support for AM3 versions has been questioned. To be honest, I would say that this board hasn't quite inspired confidence in me, being my first Gigabyte purchase.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13023119*
> Mine has been rocky, as my first one was defective, and Gigabyte was slow on the support. The new board has been solid, although the heatsink design on this board is inferior in my opinion. Memory issues tend to be at the top of the list, and upcoming bulldozer support for AM3 versions has been questioned. To be honest, I would say that this board hasn't quite inspired confidence in me, being my first Gigabyte purchase.


What kind of memory issues? I ordered mine with memories that supported according to GB's list. I believe that I won't have problems w/ them.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I had a couple slightly wonky RAM sticks originally, and the board refused to run with it, while an Asus 890GX board I have in the spare system ran fine, as did two other MSI 790fx boards. I RMA'd the RAM and the motherboard...now it works. The first motherboard also had severe issues with the SATA controller in the southbridge. It would read at 1-2 MB/s, peak around 100 or so, and then back to 1-2. It would also freeze the system at POST, even without having hard drives attached. Gigabyte never tested for that issue, and sent me back the original board I had. I then called them, fought for about 45 minutes, and they finally sent a new one, but I had to wait some time (I posted in this thread about it) since they refused to cross ship, processed my board very slowly, and never contacted me back once it did ship.
Others here seem to have memory issues. Gigabyte often claims bad RAM, which isn't always the case. Yesterday I had to tell a friend their 2nd replacement from Gigabyte (775 DDR3 system) is fubar. The issue - memory problems that are directly due to the motherboard. This reminds me of the pickyness of Abit boards years ago, but much worse since Gigabyte also doesn't like to even rely on their own QVL, stating it's only for reference.

Maybe I'm just a bitter, angry person, and expect technology to work reliably. Not saying this board is bad...my 2nd one has been flawless, but I don't like having to send things back twice just to have that happen.


----------



## -X3-

Thanks for the info, appreciate this

I'll update as soon as my board arrives with pictures


----------



## Blueduck3285

O all of a sudden after months of stable ocing... My system will no boot with manual settings. I even set manual settings to stock config of 2.8Ghz with crappy ram speeds and my system "failed to boot because of overclocking". No matter what I do my system will not boot with manual settings. I have a problem where I couldn't ever boot with manual ram timings. Think this problem spread and its the board or what?


----------



## Blitz6804

Try changing the CMOS battery.


----------



## Blueduck3285

I upgraded to F6 bios, everything fixed.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285*


O all of a sudden after months of stable ocing... My system will no boot with manual settings. I even set manual settings to stock config of 2.8Ghz with crappy ram speeds and my system "failed to boot because of overclocking". No matter what I do my system will not boot with manual settings. I have a problem where I couldn't ever boot with manual ram timings. Think this problem spread and its the board or what?


Try re-flashing the BIOS. If that doesn't clear up the issue, try a different set of RAM. If not that, you may need to scrutinize the CPU memory controller, or the motherboard.


----------



## BeOtCh

add me to the club


----------



## jjceo

AMD's new CPUs are still months away, but Gigabyte has revamped its current AMD lineup to add support for them anyway.
One of the most important things when building a PC with the aim on upgrading down the track is ensuring as little change as possible. One of the most dreaded hurdles on the upgrade path is the CPU socket. If socket design changes then youâ€™ll almost certainly need a new motherboard when you do upgrade.

This is an area where AMD has historically been much better than Intel. Intel tends to change sockets with each generation of CPU - currently there are three types out there, LGA 1155 for Sandy Bridge, LGA 1156 for first generation core and LGA 1366 for the performance Core i7 processors. AMD on the other hand has always tried to keep sockets across generations.

When it releases its new â€˜Bulldozerâ€™ core desktop processors later this year AMD is having to make a socket shift from the current AM3 socket to a new one called AM3+. These newer processors will be compatible with AM3 motherboards but need AM3+ to take full advantage of their features. This has led to the somewhat unusual move of the socket being launched well ahead of the actual processors.

Not only has AMD ensured backwards compatibility with the old sockets, it has ensured that the new socket will happily support existing AM3 processors. That means motherboard manufacturers are able to update the sockets on their existing motherboard lines and ensure they will be ready for Bulldozer.

This also works because AMDâ€™s existing 800 series chipset is pretty advanced, with the SB9850 southbridge supporting native SATA 6Gb/s. It lacks USB 3, which will likely come in the new chipsets, but there are plenty of motherboards with third party USB 3 controllers to make up for the deficiency.

Gigabyte is the first manufacturer out of the gates with AM3+ support in its motherboard lineup. It has announced that it has begun shipping 16 models of â€˜Black Socketâ€™ AM3+ motherboards that also support existing AM3 CPUs. It has deliberately chosen a new socket colour to make distinguishing the boards from each other much easier â€" if it uses the cream coloured socket it is AM3 only, but if the socket is black then it will support AM3+.

It is important to keep in mind that AM3+ is just for the desktop CPUs at the moment. The upcoming line of Llano desktop and performance laptop APUs will use a different socket design entirely. Called FM1 this socket will hook into one of two new chipsets. Codenamed Hudson D1 and Hudson D2, these will have features like SATA 6Gb/s, Gigabit Ethernet and even native USB 3 on the D2.

Both the Llano APUs and Bulldozer CPUs are expected to show themselves at Computex, which kicks off in Taiwan at the end of May.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Yup, the black AM3+ socket UD5 board was stumbled on a little while ago. Good for Gigabyte...sucks to be an AM3 UD5 owner if it won't support Bulldozer, or GB won't update the BIOS to support. From what I read, based on what Asus and AMD were both saying, our boards should support in the hardware sense, but won't have all the power profile options. Otherwise, performance should be about on par with an AM3+.


----------



## saint19

Plus, i read too that some BD features will no be available in AM3 sockets like ours.


----------



## Lab Rat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


What coil is whining in your system? Normally it isn't a problem, but coil whine is typically present in AC power, and not DC so much. It's especially the case with sealed, or wrapped/insulated inductors. Transistors have been known to squeal, too, when driven hard, which usually means a defect somewhere in the transistor.


PSU, although I changed PSU, MOBO & it is still there.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

If the PSU was changed to a known good one, as well as the motherboard, it might be the video card. It could also be a bad motherboard design in general. Sometimes the PWM controller will whine a bit when pushing a strong fan.

What pump(s) are you using for your loop? Sometimes those can whine (the D5Bs in my system have a touch of it, but are like an old hard drive in tone).

Sometimes fans can have a bad piece in them that causes a whine, too. If it's a very high pitched squeal, it's likely a transistor somewhere. If it's a little deeper squeal, almost buzz, it could be inductor. More of a "wall wart" style buzz/hum would be the primary side of the power supply, and what are essentially vibrating filter inductors.


----------



## Lab Rat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13025354*
> If the PSU was changed to a known good one, as well as the motherboard, it might be the video card. It could also be a bad motherboard design in general. Sometimes the PWM controller will whine a bit when pushing a strong fan.
> 
> What pump(s) are you using for your loop? Sometimes those can whine (the D5Bs in my system have a touch of it, but are like an old hard drive in tone).
> 
> Sometimes fans can have a bad piece in them that causes a whine, too. If it's a very high pitched squeal, it's likely a transistor somewhere. If it's a little deeper squeal, almost buzz, it could be inductor. More of a "wall wart" style buzz/hum would be the primary side of the power supply, and what are essentially vibrating filter inductors.


I made a thread this afternoon explains better & what ive done to try & remedy. Definitely the PSU.

http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/983255-coil-whine.html


----------



## Blueduck3285

Flashed to F6. Did the trick.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Ulysses Cazuquel

I would like to know it is possible to remove only the heatsink in part where have written the name Gigabyte?


----------



## shajack

yesterday i installed a fan for my khx rams...after installing it,power on the pc,all setting were thrown back as if i hit clear cmos button,which i didnt...
is this normal???i did however manually set the timing on my ram before that n all that also were set back to auto.


----------



## Blitz6804

I never tried Ulysses Cazuquel. Why would you want to?

shajack: Do you have the cover on the CMOS button? You might have accidentally nudged it. Or, possibly, if you forgot to remove the power mains, one of the fans could have caused a small short doing the same thing.


----------



## Ulysses Cazuquel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I never tried Ulysses Cazuquel. Why would you want to?


Blitz6804
to add a waterblock


----------



## Blitz6804

If I had to guess, I would say the whole thing is part of the heatpipe system... you would either need to replace the whole system or break out a dremel. Personally, I would rather go with the UD7 if you have the appropriate case for it.


----------



## JJHCRazor

Just bought one of these bad boys to upgrade my system.

Going to transfer over my existing gear and hopefully upgrade the CPU to a bulldozer in the future.

New specs will be a Phenom II X2 555BE, corsair XMS3 4GB ram, Gigabyte GTX 460 1GB and a 550w power supply.

Not too sure how the PSU will hold up, and I'm thinking i may need to upgrade it to a 650 or a 750 once i got for the new CPU.

Plans are to attempt to unlocck the extra cores on the 555BE and wind it up a bit


----------



## shajack

no,i dont hv the cover for that.if that the case,what a relief...afraid to find out that the bios might reset everything each time during power on...

for this board,its better to buy a tight timing ram with low freq or high freq ram with loose timing?

currently looking at corsair vengeance 2000mhz cl10 and mushkin redline 1600mhz cl6


----------



## ht_addict

Has anyone tried the BIOS for the rev3.1 boards on the earlier ones?


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Has anyone tried the BIOS for the rev3.1 boards on the earlier ones?


try it and let us know...


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ulysses Cazuquel*


Blitz6804
to add a waterblock


Removing only the CPU heatsink is not possible. The heatpipe is bonded to the heatsink, and would be damaged and/or ruined if removal was attempted. If you want to watercool, it must be with the VRM as well. The SB can have a passive heatsink attached, as it puts out very little heat.


----------



## shajack

my 460 block the sb heatsink...assume you have to put a heatsink with the same height with the original one


----------



## pali

Quick question. Anyone know the max heat temp for the chipset/north/south for this board? Thanks in advance!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shajack*


my 460 block the sb heatsink...assume you have to put a heatsink with the same height with the original one


Yes, a heatsink must be used on the southbridge. .5" (12.7mm) max height to avoid hitting a VGA card.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


hmm i got 5870 crossfire and both are running on the top 2 slots but my second card is only running at 8x..ideas?

Cheers


How do you know it's only running at 8x? This is making me wonder about my set-up


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bajer29*


How do you know it's only running at 8x? This is making me wonder about my set-up











oh it must be the power states, that brings back to 8x to save energy


----------



## bajer29

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


oh it must be the power states, that brings back to 8x to save energy


Hmmm I know the clocks change but I think that's all up to the GPU and ATI's powersave mode. But I would hope both cards are running at 16x while under load.

@Coldplayer let me know when you get a chance how you can tell if it's running at 16x or 8x so I can look into this more.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pali*


Quick question. Anyone know the max heat temp for the chipset/north/south for this board? Thanks in advance!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


NB is 80ÂºC, SB never goes above 40ÂºC-45ÂºC for me. Chipset I'm not sure.

Keep in mind that even if you NB can hit the 80ÂºC as max temp, if you are hitting the 50ÂºC or above, then you are having problems.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

So far, I can confirm that at stock settings, Gskill [ Ripjaws-X ] F3-14900CL9D-8GBXL is not going to be stable at any speeds. I have tried 1066, 1333, 1600, at varying bus speeds. Timings have been following the SPD, although I'm unsure of max voltage to throw on these.

Yes, I realize these are "Intel only" sticks....but I'm hoping to make this gift a useful one. I'll be messing with timings, voltages, and the more advanced settings to see what I can eek out of this, and report back on my findings. I will also be comparing this RAM with an Asus M4A89GTD-Pro board to see if the UD5 is just picky, or that this RAM is just entirely incompatible.

One thing I can confirm; using DIMMs 3 and 4 on a Rev. 2.0 motherboard is the better option, I had a few seconds more of stability, and it seems less finicky.


----------



## Blitz6804

Check GPUz. Under "bus interface" it will say what speed the slot is capable of, and what speed it is running.

Interesting tidbit for you all: With only the first and last slots populated, they run at 16x/8x, even though the manual says they are supposed to run at 8x/8x. If you populate both 16x slots, however, it does drop to 8x/16x/8x as reported. (Only the 16x obviously gives you 16x/16x.)


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Check GPUz. Under "bus interface" it will say what speed the slot is capable of, and what speed it is running.

Interesting tidbit for you all: With only the first and last slots populated, they run at 16x/8x, even though the manual says they are supposed to run at 8x/8x. If you populate both 16x slots, however, it does drop to 8x/16x/8x as reported. (Only the 16x obviously gives you 16x/16x.)


With my 2-6850 in the top 2 slots I'm at 16x/16x. And the top bottom is 16x/8x.


----------



## bajer29

So you are able to run crossfire with the 1st and 3rd slots with the UD5? I thought you could only run cfx in the top two... my cards will only work with slots 1 and 2. I've tried 1 and 3 but only the card in the first slot is recognized :/


----------



## Blitz6804

If we label the slots:

A = 1x
B = 16x_1
C = 1x
D = 16x_2
E = 4x
F = 8x
G = PCI

A card in B/D results in both being 16x. A card in B/F results in B being 16x (even though the manual says it should be 8x) and F being 8x. A card in each of B, D and F results in 8x for B/F, and 16x on D. At least according to GPUz when I was just shuffling my cards around yesterday. If you crossfire two cards, you should be using B/D. If you use three cards, you should be using B/D/F. (In all cases I have a soundcard in A.)


----------



## christoph

yeah

use a test like Furmark test in windowed setting so you can see the GPU-Z reporting the interface of the video cards...


----------



## bajer29

Hmmm I wish I could use slots B and F... my GPUs get too hot while in cfx and the fans get too loud if I use MSI afterburner's user defined fan controller. Oh well... Looks like I'll have to look into water GPU cooling.


----------



## Scotso

I just got mine.


----------



## bajer29

Welcome to dah club!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Update about RAM:

This board will not run it at 1600 speeds, under any circumstances. However, I'm working, and getting 1333 pretty solid, with CAS of 6, on 1.57 volts. I'll have to take some time on this one, and go over every single timing, since going by SPD is worthless at this point. I'm going to check voltage limits, too..don't know how much I can shove into the sticks.

So far it's looking like the UD5 doesn't like 4GB sticks all too well. Maybe it's the CPU. Currently the CPU-NB voltage is 1.25, Hypertransport is @ 2000, and NB is 2500. Bus is 250. NB volts are 1.2. RAM is 1.57. CPU is 1.425 @ 4.0 Ghz. Lots to keep trying.


----------



## shajack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Update about RAM:

This board will not run it at 1600 speeds, under any circumstances. However, I'm working, and getting 1333 pretty solid, with CAS of 6, on 1.57 volts. I'll have to take some time on this one, and go over every single timing, since going by SPD is worthless at this point. I'm going to check voltage limits, too..don't know how much I can shove into the sticks.

So far it's looking like the UD5 doesn't like 4GB sticks all too well. Maybe it's the CPU. Currently the CPU-NB voltage is 1.25, Hypertransport is @ 2000, and NB is 2500. Bus is 250. NB volts are 1.2. RAM is 1.57. CPU is 1.425 @ 4.0 Ghz. Lots to keep trying.


do you mean a stick of 4GB ram?i'm still working on finding a good timing on this board,using KHX rams.Shoving 1.65v with 6-9-8-27-27-1T 1071.6MHz. I let it prime95 for 4-5 hours,no error.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13037132*
> Update about RAM:
> 
> This board will not run it at 1600 speeds, under any circumstances. However, I'm working, and getting 1333 pretty solid, with CAS of 6, on 1.57 volts. I'll have to take some time on this one, and go over every single timing, since going by SPD is worthless at this point. I'm going to check voltage limits, too..don't know how much I can shove into the sticks.
> 
> So far it's looking like the UD5 doesn't like 4GB sticks all too well. Maybe it's the CPU. Currently the CPU-NB voltage is 1.25, Hypertransport is @ 2000, and NB is 2500. Bus is 250. NB volts are 1.2. RAM is 1.57. CPU is 1.425 @ 4.0 Ghz. Lots to keep trying.


well at least you could try something like

RAM at 1333 6-6-6-18-1
NB even higher than 3000 Mhz

hmmm

what voltage for the CPU-NB and what speed you used with RAM at 1600?

at higher RAM speed, needs more voltage for CPU-NB, I know you know this...

I'm using 8 GB of RAM 4 x 2 Gb sticks, even I have different kits (2x2) one is the Mushkin and another kit that is a Patriot 2x2 RAM kit

and they're running at 1600


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;13046865*
> well at least you could try something like
> 
> RAM at 1333 6-6-6-18-1
> NB even higher than 3000 Mhz
> 
> hmmm
> 
> what voltage for the CPU-NB and what speed you used with RAM at 1600?
> 
> at higher RAM speed, needs more voltage for CPU-NB, I know you know this...
> 
> I'm using 8 GB of RAM 4 x 2 Gb sticks, even I have different kits (2x2) one is the Mushkin and another kit that is a Patriot 2x2 RAM kit
> 
> and they're running at 1600


It won't run at those speeds on any voltage. It will do DDR 1333 7-8-7-24 2T. RAM voltage was taken from 1.5 up to 1.65 to see if it would help. No change.

CPU-NB was boosted up to 1.3...made no difference.

The RAM wouldn't run at 1600 9-8-9-28 2T timings...then it did suddenly, and went back to unstable a couple hours later.

NB speed was tried from 2000-2750, and that made no difference. Bus speed seemed to influence things slightly, but not enough.

I tried the RAM in the Asus board I have, just to see if it was flaky. CPU-NB is 1.2V on an unlocked tri-core @ 3.63 Ghz (1.4 volts). NB freq: was 2500 on stock voltage. The RAM was able to run at 8-9-8-24-1T without issue, at 1666 speeds (250 bus with 6.66 multiplier) on 1.50 volts without a problem. No crashes, no issues. The RAM is fine..the UD5 will not play with it, though.

This board just keeps getting better; chalk up another disappointment for me. I have decided to wait and see what AM3+ boards are like, and let someone have this.

As for the "old" RAM (in my sig still) it's running at 1666 with 7-8-7-25-1T timings now, but required a voltage bump to do it (1.69v), which was also unnecessary on the Asus :-/.


----------



## Blitz6804

Anyone else with an x6 suddenly lose stability? I was running at 4.0 GHz without incident for months. All of a sudden, it will not do it anymore! *Frustrated.* If I drop back to 3948 it seems okay, 3990 failed, and I am trying now 3976. I could try raising the voltage, but I am really not interested in doing that. It should be noted that my RAM, NB, and HT are all higher at 3948 than at 4002, even though the former could SMP fold, and the latter would EUE or BSOD.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13047871*
> Anyone else with an x6 suddenly lose stability? I was running at 4.0 GHz without incident for months. All of a sudden, it will not do it anymore! *Frustrated.* If I drop back to 3948 it seems okay, 3990 failed, and I am trying now 3976. I could try raising the voltage, but I am really not interested in doing that. It should be noted that my RAM, NB, and HT are all higher at 3948 than at 4002, even though the former could SMP fold, and the latter would EUE or BSOD.


When I tried the new RAM yesterday I did. Then it worked without a hitch, and then back to nothing...completely random. I put in the old Corsair RAM, and the board will now OC it without issue.

What CPU voltage was the CPU previously using to hit 4.0? Maybe it's like the old sudden northwood dead syndrome when people pushed their old P4s too far. Doubtful, but maybe.


----------



## Blitz6804

1.440 V under load.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

What types of errors and BSOD are you receiving, Blitz? Changed any components within the last week or three?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have not been stable at 4.0 since I swapped the HD 5970 out for the HD 6970s. It has been getting less stable still in the past two weeks. Removing GPUs have not helped, with two, or even one, it still is not stable at 4.0 GHz anymore. Overclocking makes no difference, as the system usually has problems under CPU load, GPU idle, but it does lock up under gaming now too. (Never had a problem with DiRT2, which is Dx11, but it keeps locking up in Battlefield: Bad Company 2; I have not tried that since downclocking, however.) Removing RAM has not helped, 4 GB, 8 GB, size, speed, and timings are irrelevant to stability.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Are you seeing any major CPU voltage fluctuations at load, and what chipset voltage? I'm wondering if the temps may be coming into play as well, either on the VRM or the chipset. On an odd thought, has the system been moved (taken to LAN or other party) recently? I'm wondering if the heavy heatsink may have caused a slight warp in the board.

You mentioned swapping to 6970s. The 11.3 drivers are out, and that might help, although you seem like the type to keep things up to date. Of course, try checking eventvwr for any tell-tale info.


----------



## Blitz6804

All voltages are rock solid under load. As we saw here, +3.3 and +5 have a 3 mV flutter, +12 V has a 13 mV flutter, and the VCore does not move. The -12 V is abysmal, but unless I am mistaken, that does not much matter.

Temperatures are still well within spec, my ambient being only 64º F, and the system being proven stable at 4.0 GHz in an 84º F ambient. I do not think the board is warped, as if the heatsink moves any, it would start pressing against the side fan causing a rattle.

As to drivers, I had 10.12 for a long time, but recently swapped to 11.3. 11.1/.2/.4p all were broken.

As to event viewer, I do not know what I am looking for.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Try using Nirsoft Blue screen view. It's handy for showing what code failed, or what the BSOD message was. Also, if you don't want to clutter this thread, feel free to PM. Anyway, post back some of the BSOD messages, and that should help with figuring out what's going wrong.


----------



## Blitz6804

They are generally IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL, which I know to be CPU speed/Vcore related. Occasionally it is just a hard lock with audio loop, no blue screen. Every once ad a while I get an nVidia-driver-related BSOD code, but an unstable CPU can cause a driver crash.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

That IRQL BSOD is also RAM related; it was one of two errors I kept getting with the old board and flaky RAM. The other error I used to get was PFN_LIST_CORRUPT. That was either hard drive or RAM, and the deciding factor turned out to be the IRQL one. Replacing the board helped, although the RAM did run fine in an MSI board, as well as my Asus. Maybe try the old RAM, or possibly check temps, and slacken some timings on the RAM, then see what happens.


----------



## Blitz6804

But that is the odd thing. I am now running with a slower CPU speed, and a faster RAM, Northbridge, and Hypertransport, and yet have not had a problem. It just hates 4.0 GHz all of a sudden.

Last 24/7 / Current
Core: 4002 MHz / 3976 MHz
NB: 2760 MHz / 2840 MHz
HT: 1932 MHz / 1988 MHz
RAM: DDR3-1472 / DDR3-1514


----------



## shajack

I got the same IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL error too but I was raising NB speed while keeping cpu speed at stock.

Lowering the NB help me post this and a while back pass prime95 blend for an hour before i decided to raise the nb multiplier

6-8-7-20-27-1T 1440MHz 1.65v
NB 2430 1.19v
HT 2160
270 FSB


----------



## Blitz6804

I found that my processor refuses to be stable if the NB is 12x or higher. It will take 11x, but it is not happy about it: I can get higher NB speeds with 10x and a higher HTT than I can with 11x, but unlike 12x, I can usually stabilize it.


----------



## shajack

is the multiplier has anything to do with the current proc coz the max multiplier i see in bios is x10

or u referring to the proc multiplier? 1st overclocker here


----------



## Blitz6804

The NB multiplier. I have a Black Edition CPU, the NB and CPU multipliers are upwardly unlocked, whereas yours are capped at 10x and 15x, respectively.


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

so will UD5 support Bulldozer..? i understand that the connectors are more than the expected pin count


----------



## Blitz6804

At this time civilian_pr0ject, only GA-890FXA-UD5 v3.1 officially supports Bulldozer, since it has an AM3+ (black) socket. The other revisions (2.0, 2.1, and 3.0) are AM3 (cream sockets) and do not officially support, at this time.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Anyone else with an x6 suddenly lose stability? I was running at 4.0 GHz without incident for months. All of a sudden, it will not do it anymore! *Frustrated.* If I drop back to 3948 it seems okay, 3990 failed, and I am trying now 3976. I could try raising the voltage, but I am really not interested in doing that. It should be noted that my RAM, NB, and HT are all higher at 3948 than at 4002, even though the former could SMP fold, and the latter would EUE or BSOD.


Mine did that, and then it started to refuse to OC at all. Reinstall bios and see if that helps. Its what I had to do.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


so will UD5 support Bulldozer..? i understand that the connectors are more than the expected pin count


Blitz is correct; Gigabyte currently only offers Bulldozer support with AM3+ (black) sockets on the 3.1 board. Most of us here seem to have the 2.0 board, with some having 2.1. I have not heard of anyone having 3.0.

In stark contrast, Asus is touting their current lineup of 890FX and GX based motherboards will have (slightly limited) Bulldozer support with a BIOS update. I've heard rumors that MSI is saying the same. Only Gigabyte has avoided this entirely, and went for an entirely new socket, which I suspect was due to design limitations in the motherboard itself (particularly memory subsystem, due to the amount of people with memory issues, or the board being extremely picky).

I have an Asus 890GX board and the Gigabyte UD5, so I will at least be able to confirm about Bulldozer support from the former. The UD5 is a well optioned board, but it has some downfalls; memory issues and heat. Currently it has also not overclocked a processor better than the cheaper GX based Asus board :-/ but the extra sata ports are nice.

Bulldozer is supposedly released June 11. We have time to wait (or waist) wondering about this.


----------



## Velathawen

I actually found that I was losing stability when I swapped over to 4x2GB ECO on my 1055T setup. Every few days it would find itself unhappy with my OC and I would drop the clock speed. I eventually just settled on 3878 @1.4 and haven't had any problems. Since I'm currently running SB, I also found that going back to my 2x2GB of G.Skill Flares could go back to my original 4032 OC @ 1.472 no problems.


----------



## blkdoutgsxr

What set of bios is everyone using? Was thinkin about rolling back to F4 because it supports .5x increases (?) think it was f4... Any reason to get a newer version of bios? thanks


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I've been using F6 without any issues so far...it's been better than F3 and F4 for me.


----------



## shajack

juz got myself a new pair of mushkin radioactive...installed it n straight to memtest...failed test 5,everything was at default setting...

bumping .2v into cpu nb vid didn't help but 1.67v to the memory controller voltage solved this and passed memtest.and no windows explorer crashes either.

is this has anything to do with the mobo?after reading few pages back about UD5 memory issue,i'm suspecting this might caused my predicament.

addendum...updated to F6,still causing memtest to fail...but changing the multiplier to 6.66 with 240 fsb help...

another thing,F6 limit the multiplier to whole number...no xx.5 anymore...if im not mistaken,i'm sure im not


----------



## Blitz6804

You are not, that is a shortfall of F6.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shajack*


juz got myself a new pair of mushkin radioactive...installed it n straight to memtest...failed test 5,everything was at default setting...

bumping .2v into cpu nb vid didn't help but 1.67v to the memory controller voltage solved this and passed memtest.and no windows explorer crashes either.

is this has anything to do with the mobo?after reading few pages back about UD5 memory issue,i'm suspecting this might caused my predicament.

addendum...updated to F6,still causing memtest to fail...but changing the multiplier to 6.66 with 240 fsb help...

another thing,F6 limit the multiplier to whole number...no xx.5 anymore...if im not mistaken,i'm sure im not



you added voltage where?

I got the same RAM kit, I think, mine is suppose to run at 6-8-6 timings with 1.65v which it does without a problem


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Nope, F6 uses whole multipliers...something I've complained about to Gigabyte, but they've never responded. However, F6 has been the most stable for me, so I'm staying with it. Besides, that, my comfortable OC range happens to use a solid multiplier, so everything works out.


----------



## shajack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;13085554*
> you added voltage where?
> 
> I got the same RAM kit, I think, mine is suppose to run at 6-8-6 timings with 1.65v which it does without a problem


mine's at higher timing, 7-9-7...added 1.67v to the vdimm with 8x memory multiplier

i can use stock vdimm,1.65 if only i dropped the memory multiplier to 6.66x and increase the fsb to 240


----------



## jjceo

I am still using F3 as it has been stable and runs well. I was a little nervous seeing all the posts on problems with other versions so I never changed.

I am running 4.202 GHZ on the CPU with 16 gig of memory at 1640 MHz and the NB at 2665 Mhz. I can run for hours with OCCT with no issues.


----------



## weipim

really sexy board , worth what it cost


----------



## shajack

one of the mushkin stick is faulty,yeayyyyyyyyyyy...time for rma,yeayyy...im so bored


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Has anyone tried flashing the bios from rev. 3.1 to older revisions? In theory, I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I am far too noobish to try this myself right now. If it did work though, we would have bulldozer support. Does anyone that knows more than me (most of you) want to try?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damn_Smooth*


Has anyone tried flashing the bios from rev. 3.1 to older revisions? In theory, I can't see why it wouldn't work, but I am far too noobish to try this myself right now. If it did work though, we would have bulldozer support. Does anyone that knows more than me (most of you) want to try?


I would not try doing so without knowing the *very specific* electrical differences between the board, particularly between 2.0 and 3.1, as the memory layout is entirely different prior to 2.1, not to mention the lack of unlocking chip on post 2.0 revisions. No, I think the BIOS revisions and design would be too different, of course, one could try it and hope the backup BIOS was an adequate crutch in case of disaster.


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


I would not try doing so without knowing the *very specific* electrical differences between the board, particularly between 2.0 and 3.1, as the memory layout is entirely different prior to 2.1, not to mention the lack of unlocking chip on post 2.0 revisions. No, I think the BIOS revisions and design would be too different, of course, one could try it and hope the backup BIOS was an adequate crutch in case of disaster.



Thanks man, I wasn't sure. I guess we're pretty much screwed then.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Damn_Smooth*


Thanks man, I wasn't sure. I guess we're pretty much screwed then.










We'll see what happens once bulldozer is actually released. Perhaps Gigabyte will feel in their hearts that we too can have Bulldozer support. If that isn't the case, however, I will be selling this motherboard and moving on to a better brand. Granted, we were unsure about what Bulldozer, if any, would be supported in our boards once released. But I am still bothered by Gigabyte's insistence on releasing newer hardware revisions instead of fixing the issues with the current design. Of course, the possibility remains that Gigabyte had unsolvable hardware issues, in which case they should have developed further before releasing a half-baked product. The worse case would be if this obsolescence had been planned long before the board was released. In any case it does not show Gigabyte in a positive light (unless they are holding back a stupendous BIOS enhancement to surprise the competition).


----------



## killeraxemannic

What do you guys think a 890fxa-ud5 + a 1055t is worth right now?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Depends on how many hours are on it to me....at most I'd give $200, but I'm cheap sometimes. I'm going to guess it's your sig setup, so I know it's been overclocked, which brings cooling (for the board) into question. I'm far more comfortable, and apt to buy a used CPU than buy a used motherboard these days.


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


We'll see what happens once bulldozer is actually released. Perhaps Gigabyte will feel in their hearts that we too can have Bulldozer support. If that isn't the case, however, I will be selling this motherboard and moving on to a better brand. Granted, we were unsure about what Bulldozer, if any, would be supported in our boards once released. But I am still bothered by Gigabyte's insistence on releasing newer hardware revisions instead of fixing the issues with the current design. Of course, the possibility remains that Gigabyte had unsolvable hardware issues, in which case they should have developed further before releasing a half-baked product. The worse case would be if this obsolescence had been planned long before the board was released. In any case it does not show Gigabyte in a positive light (unless they are holding back a stupendous BIOS enhancement to surprise the competition).


I completely agree with everything you said, If the competition can do it, so too should Gigabyte. If it turns out that we don't get support, my next board will be from a different manufacturer. If we do get support though, all will be forgiven.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Depends on how many hours are on it to me....at most I'd give $200, but I'm cheap sometimes. I'm going to guess it's your sig setup, so I know it's been overclocked, which brings cooling (for the board) into question. I'm far more comfortable, and apt to buy a used CPU than buy a used motherboard these days.


I'm thinking at least $300. Both are less than a year old. The board alone new is still almost $200


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Both pieces show as new (with warranty) for $179.99 each, with free shipping, on Newegg. That's $360 total. Despite being less than a year old, they could also have been run 24/7. Keep in mind the prices for the CPU are dropping, no warranty is to be had, and shipping is not free (something I always consider in the final pricing of a product when building for others). If Bulldozer support doesn't surface with the UD5, I'll be selling mine for $110, and it's been kept cooler than any of the others here as far as I know. I'd likely sell my 1090T for about $150. Why? Heavily used...whenever it's been on, it's been encoding videos, running benchmarks, gaming, or a bit of everything, so no light use. This is also with it running under 40C at any given point in the past few months, and prior to water cooling, it wouldn't have broken above 47, so it's been taken care of.

I liken all of this to buying a new car, putting about 50k miles on it in a year or two, driving it hard, and then selling for about half price: because that is what's going to be worth, even if taken care of. This is going to be very true once Bulldozer is actually released if the UD5 does not support it. Dead end motherboard would be its selling point by then.


----------



## Damn_Smooth

Here is their reply to the question of a bios update.:

Dear customer,

We are sorry to let you know that, since AMD changed their AM3+ pin out, old version AM2+/AM3 socket mother board not able to support AM3+ processor. Due to processor pin out physically changed Bios update not able to make board works. User need to have rev 3.1 board to work with AM3+ processor.

Best regards,

Gigabyte technical support team.

I love the broken English, but it looks like we're s.o.l. at this moment. Hopefully something changes but it doesn't look good.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Wow, you actually received a response from them. I sent two..never received anything in return. It's a very generic response, but I'm more inclined to believe it, since their two biggest competitors (Asus and MSI) have boasted of supporting BD via BIOS update.

Here I come, M4A89GTD.


----------



## Damn_Smooth

It surprised me too, and it only took 20 minutes, not the days I was expecting.

I'm not entirely sure if I will be going with first gen Bulldozer yet, but if I do, I'm going to go with a 990fx board. Definitely not a gigabyte one though.


----------



## Blitz6804

You should ask them too if we can trade Rev 2.0 for Rev 3.1 for a slight additional fee. Feel free to link them to this thread, when they see the member base, they might find that upgrades are better for them in the long run rather than the entire group jumping ship. I know my HD 6970s are Gigabyte solely because of how much I had liked this motherboard; if they screw me on this (and Asus, MSI, or others would not) I would be leaving Gigabyte both on motherboard and graphics card upgrades.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

A good idea, Blitz....hopefully an upgrade shouldn't cost much more than shipping, because we're not getting solid upgrade as it's more of a lateral one, especially since the 990 chipsets will be released soon. If they refuse that, however, then I would most definitely write them off entirely, and word-of-mouth can be a powerful tool.

EDIT: One other thought: wouldn't we possibly incriminate ourselves by linking to a thread that may prove overclocking, or other modifications, were performed on these motherboards, violating warranty?


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blitz6804*


you should ask them too if we can trade rev 2.0 for rev 3.1 for a slight additional fee. Feel free to link them to this thread, when they see the member base, they might find that upgrades are better for them in the long run rather than the entire group jumping ship. I know my hd 6970s are gigabyte solely because of how much i had liked this motherboard; if they screw me on this (and asus, msi, or others would not) i would be leaving gigabyte both on motherboard and graphics card upgrades.



+ 20


----------



## Damn_Smooth

I sent the message, let's see if I can get a quick response again this time.


----------



## polynomialc

ud5 installed in my new ft02, board still running strong, f4 bios. 3.874ghz, at 1.4v stable. anyone have experience with vertex3 or intel 510 ssd on this board? wondering about sata3 rates or else just buy a normal intel 320 series sata2 ssd, and go with reliability vs benchmarks


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13082748*
> Blitz is correct; Gigabyte currently only offers Bulldozer support with AM3+ (black) sockets on the 3.1 board. Most of us here seem to have the 2.0 board, with some having 2.1. I have not heard of anyone having 3.0.
> 
> In stark contrast, Asus is touting their current lineup of 890FX and GX based motherboards will have (slightly limited) Bulldozer support with a BIOS update. I've heard rumors that MSI is saying the same. Only Gigabyte has avoided this entirely, and went for an entirely new socket, which I suspect was due to design limitations in the motherboard itself (particularly memory subsystem, due to the amount of people with memory issues, or the board being extremely picky).
> 
> I have an Asus 890GX board and the Gigabyte UD5, so I will at least be able to confirm about Bulldozer support from the former. The UD5 is a well optioned board, but it has some downfalls; memory issues and heat. Currently it has also not overclocked a processor better than the cheaper GX based Asus board :-/ but the extra sata ports are nice.
> 
> Bulldozer is supposedly released June 11. We have time to wait (or waist) wondering about this.


If you look on Gigabytes website, the Rev3.0 has a white socket yet the same BIOS as the Rev 3.1???


----------



## chriss1

hi.i m not speaking very good english.sorry for this
i will try to.
so i have this board with a phenom 965 BE.
i m running at 4Ghz.i m stable.intel burn test say this.
the 965 needs 1.5V to run in this frequency.is it right or i m doing something wrong.
what settings in BIOS i will put for best stability.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chriss1;13158591*
> hi.i m not speaking very good english.sorry for this
> i will try to.
> so i have this board with a phenom 965 BE.
> i m running at 4Ghz.i m stable.intel burn test say this.
> the 965 needs 1.5V to run in this frequency.is it right or i m doing something wrong.
> what settings in BIOS i will put for best stability.


is to much, shoul need way less than that with this board


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


is to much, shoul need way less than that with this board


Its not about the board. Its about the cpu and what its rated for. From what I have been reading from others on the forums is that most do not recommend not using 1.5v for a 24/7 oc.

DX tapa tapa


----------



## chriss1

my vid processor is 1.4v so is to much +1.0v for 4 ghz?
i will post screenshots from my bios settings so you can see.


----------



## shajack

does this motherboard hv any specific ram tht it might not use others?

have installed hyperx,mushkin radiaoactive and latest is corsair vengeance.except for hyperx,the other two always give me bsod even on auto settings and at supposedly rated timing and voltage.

just when i thought that after installing corsair i won't have any trouble...it gave me bsod even without running anything except utorrent and steam


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chriss1*


my vid processor is 1.4v so is to much +1.0v for 4 ghz?
i will post screenshots from my bios settings so you can see.


You mean +.10v for 4ghz. I would suggest jumping to 1.425 and go jump .025v at a time see if that helps. Id just try and stay below 1.5v if possible.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shajack*


does this motherboard hv any specific ram tht it might not use others?

have installed hyperx,mushkin radiaoactive and latest is corsair vengeance.except for hyperx,the other two always give me bsod even on auto settings and at supposedly rated timing and voltage.

just when i thought that after installing corsair i won't have any trouble...it gave me bsod even without running anything except utorrent and steam


Read the first post. There are ram lists of what users have experienced.


----------



## shajack

hyperx isn't listed but its at least stable at default.
vengeance is pretty new...wow,now i need time to find a setting that works

my eco is on the way from taiwan.can't wait for that


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;13163983*
> Its not about the board. Its about the cpu and what its rated for. From what I have been reading from others on the forums is that most do not recommend not using 1.5v for a 24/7 oc.
> 
> DX tapa tapa


the cpu can take 1.55v on air

this motherboard can provide clean power due to 8 phases that has against 4 of the other one, needing less voltage for the same speed....


----------



## christoph

besides that the CPU speed stock is 3.4, so it should not take .15 v to achieve 600 MHz overclock

unless is one of the worst cpu to ...


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shajack;13165776*
> does this motherboard hv any specific ram tht it might not use others?
> 
> have installed hyperx,mushkin radiaoactive and latest is corsair vengeance.except for hyperx,the other two always give me bsod even on auto settings and at supposedly rated timing and voltage.
> 
> just when i thought that after installing corsair i won't have any trouble...it gave me bsod even without running anything except utorrent and steam


the mushkin radioctive gave you BSOD at stock?

I even have the radioctavide kit along with a Patriot kit (4x2) working good


----------



## Blitz6804

Depends on the stepping. Early/poor x4 965s struggled to hit 3.8, so it might need 1.5 to get to 4.0. I would try lowering voltage a bit and seeing if stability remains, however.


----------



## shajack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph;13166384*
> the mushkin radioctive gave you BSOD at stock?
> 
> I even have the radioctavide kit along with a Patriot kit (4x2) working good


yes,it did...rma it twice...the only stable ram i had use was hyperx.


----------



## Lab Rat

Wondering what speeds would get with Sata 3 on this board, if I upgraded to a Vertex 3. Anyone know?


----------



## chriss1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


besides that the CPU speed stock is 3.4, so it should not take .15 v to achieve 600 MHz overclock

unless is one of the worst cpu to ...


i think that this right because now i m running at 3.8 Ghz with stock voltage.
and for 4Ghz needs +1.0V?
very strange!!!
it might be the BIOS.i m using F4.the official site from gigabyte tells me to use F1.is this right?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chriss1;13172063*
> i think that this right because now i m running at 3.8 Ghz with stock voltage.
> and for 4Ghz needs +1.0V?
> very strange!!!
> it might be the BIOS.i m using F4.the official site from gigabyte tells me to use F1.is this right?


actually that is right, you may need +1v for 4 GHz, or at least that is what users been reporting...

and that's why a lot of users prefer 3.8 GHz instead of going for 4 GHz


----------



## Blitz6804

Please watch your decimal points people... +1V = 2.35 V == instant fire.

+0.10 V or +100 mV = 1.45 V = safe.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

+1 volt? I think someone misplaced a decimal point. Yes, I need +.1 volts (notice the period) for a 4Ghz overclock, but it is still below the 1.475 volt turbo core voltage, and is quite normal.


----------



## shajack

the corsair rep juz asked me to set the rams to 1333MHz,1.70vdimm,+0.2 cpu nb vid with timing of 9-9-9-24-2T
really now questioning the point of buying 1600mhz rams


----------



## bajer29

Just because they aren't set to 1600mhz doesn't mean you won't get the same amount of speed and performance of 1600mhz DIMMs. It's all in the voltages and timings.

This is what GSkill sent me when I was having problems with getting my 1066mhz modules to their factory speed when I had a MSI K9A2 Platinum V1 mobo:
Quote:


> Dear Customer
> 
> What CPU are you using? It may be the CPU unable to operate the memory at DDR2-1066. It is understandable that you are missing a whole 266MHz and would like that, but in actuality you did not screw up. The DDR2-800 setting is actually faster than DDR2-1066, reason being that the timings are lower and AMD platforms benefit from that. You could have simply purchased a DDR2-800 memory package for cheaper, but it would actually be slower than this memory package if you purchase a CL5. Any DDR2-800 CL4 memory package is more than this DDR2-1066 CL5 memory package, so you didn't lose money/value.
> 
> Run memory speed tests with a program such as Everest Ultimate. With this memory package and the settings you listed below, you will not find a faster performing memory. It may seem as if this was one huge mistake, but in actuality it is still the best combination.
> 
> Thank you
> GSKILL SUPPORT


----------



## shajack

that being said,the timing is still at stock and haven't tested for stability yet coz have to change the command rate from 1T to 2T while other timings and voltages is as instructed by corsair...
wish me luck







...hope this rams will not be included into the incompatible list on page 1


----------



## bajer29

gudluck


----------



## Blitz6804

Remember too please the limitations of your northbridge. Officially, Thubans support DDR3-1333 with 2 DIMMs, DDR3-1066 with 4 DIMMs. Denebs officially support DDR3-1066 for 2 or 4 DIMMs, or DDR2-1066 with 2, DDR2-800 with 4.

This does not mean you will not be able to get it higher, but instead, that after that divider, you might need to find the rest of your speed via HTT.

For example, with 4 DIMMs in my rig, I am not stable with my memory divider set to DDR3-1333, even when the HTT is 200. However, with the DDR3-1066 divider, I am now running an HTT of 284 (DDR3-1515) without a problem.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13187102*
> Remember too please the limitations of your northbridge. Officially, Thubans support DDR3-1333 with 2 DIMMs, DDR3-1066 with 4 DIMMs. Denebs officially support DDR3-1066 for 2 or 4 DIMMs, or DDR2-1066 with 2, DDR2-800 with 4.
> 
> This does not mean you will not be able to get it higher, but instead, that after that divider, you might need to find the rest of your speed via HTT.
> 
> For example, with 4 DIMMs in my rig, I am not stable with my memory divider set to DDR3-1333, even when the HTT is 200. However, with the DDR3-1066 divider, I am now running an HTT of 284 (DDR3-1515) without a problem.


that's right...


----------



## UnexplodedCow

This is quite true. Some of us have had a good memory controller on Thuban. This also goes along the lines of people expecting a high overclock. 4.0 Ghz is not the norm, but a highly advertised speed, just as running a high and tight DDR3 setup is known, but not in the bell-end of the curve. However, I will say the UD5 can be an utter pain in regards to what RAM it works with, Intel rated or not.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


This is quite true. Some of us have had a good memory controller on Thuban. This also goes along the lines of people expecting a high overclock. 4.0 Ghz is not the norm, but a highly advertised speed, just as running a high and tight DDR3 setup is known, but not in the bell-end of the curve. However, I will say the UD5 can be an utter pain in regards to what RAM it works with, Intel rated or not.


This. My board hates my ram but my ram has been know to pull 1600 at cl7 but I can't even get the board to run my ram at stock setting let alone cl7 with any speed. The board caused me to drop my oc to 3.8 because of its hated for my ram.

DX GB Rooted Tapa Tapa


----------



## shajack

I agree with UnexplodedCow

i've used kingston hyperX and manually set it at default setting, everything was working ok.

the 1st sticks of mushkin radioactive i had need 1.67vdimm to work normally coz one of the stick was/may be bad but with the vdimm bump,pass memtest and running at default setting. tho it did give me error on a test i don't remember

the 2nd sticks was a bad batch and now on its way to USA, simple as that

currently running vengeance. from 1600mhz, 1333mhz to 1066mhz with 9-9-9-24-1T later to 9-9-9-24-2T, 1.71vdimm and +0.2vimc.all that got errors in memtest, either running in dos and windows 7.

the odd thing is,i can play borderlands with vengeance.opinions guys???

@blueduck3285
may i know what was the ram tht u are referring to?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I've had the pleasure of dealing with two AM3 boards at my disposal, so if something doesn't work in the UD5, I toss it in the Asus...and so far I've had no memory issues in the latter, with the former working best with high voltage modules (1.65 and up it seems). Originally it ran with 1.9v Gskill Pi 1600 (CL7), and it was smooth, but I was trying to drop the voltage with the Corsair.


----------



## shajack

1.9vdimm









may be i can try that. whats the default voltage for the dominator? vengeance is at 1.5v.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Dominator is 1.65 at stock, but Corsair doesn't seem to mind if they're bumped a bit with 1.75 volts. Sadly, it makes no difference on my board for stability. I really should try tweaking the timings and speeds beyond stock.

EDIT: Also, those Gskill sticks I mentioned were early DDR3, and were spec'd to run AT that voltage, and up to 2.1v, which was common back then, but now I'm unsure. I know JEDEC was specifying that kind of voltage for DDR3 as a max continuous voltage, unless I'm utterly mistaken.


----------



## shajack

owh,forgot to mention that Gigabyte told me to update to F6 to address the memory instability. I replied and give them what i thought about F6, tho i will give it a try

edit
corsair rep juz told me to rma the sticks.
i think ill update to F6 1st and test it again.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *shajack*


owh,forgot to mention that Gigabyte told me to update to F6 to address the memory instability. I replied and give them what i thought about F6, tho i will give it a try

edit
corsair rep juz told me to rma the sticks.
i think ill update to F6 1st and test it again.


I've been using F6 since its release, and I can say that it's no more stable than any other good version (F3 and F4 specifically).


----------



## shajack

i fiddle with bios whatever time i had before going to work, the result were the same tho not as many error as before in memtest.
lowering the vdimm popped out 1 error in a single pass,the second pass got 3 errors...
im trying to lower the vdimm again and increase the vimc when im off of work...n may be try the sticks on another mobo...

if it works on another mobo with default setting,confirm incompatible memory...IF


----------



## zylonite

Has anyone done crossfire two XFX 6950/6970 2GB on the two top PCI-E x16 slots on this mobo? I wonder how hot the card on the top gets since the two slots are very close to each other and blocks th fan of the card on top.


----------



## zylonite

Going through every page of this post but cannot find any results on the best compatible ram for this MOBO. Planning to overclock to 2000 along phenom X2 1055T. Any suggestions for 8GB or 16GB kit?


----------



## Blitz6804

zylonite: I have 2xHD 6970 in those slots with a GTX 285 in the bottom. With an aggressive fan curve in MSI Afterburner, 50% at 70Âº C, 100% at 100Âº C, the top card hits 80Âº C or so. As to memory, the first page has our recommended memories. gooface has had the best luck getting near DDR3-2000, if I remember right, but even then its DDR3-1920.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *zylonite*


Going through every page of this post but cannot find any results on the best compatible ram for this MOBO. Planning to overclock to 2000 along phenom X2 1055T. Any suggestions for 8GB or 16GB kit?


I'm happy with 1666 myself. 2000 is likely going to require rather slack timings, which won't be very helpful on the AM3 platform. I've had the best of luck out of Corsair Dominator, but imagine XMS3 will do just fine, too.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zylonite;13195907*
> Going through every page of this post but cannot find any results on the best compatible ram for this MOBO. Planning to overclock to 2000 along phenom X2 1055T. Any suggestions for 8GB or 16GB kit?


2 dimms will have better luck


----------



## zylonite

I am not sure if someone would be kind enough to give me the right bios setting to overclock my Phenom II X6 1055T on GA-890FXA-UD5 using bios F6?

I have the Corsair Air Series A70 CPU Cooler and so not sure how much overclocking is recommended with this cooler. Also how can I find out which revision of Phenom II X6 1055T I have?


----------



## shajack

haha, got my mushkin back.. tht was pretty fast.. testing testing

edit; failed blend, 3 cores failed within 3 minutes...upping vimc:devil:


----------



## killeraxemannic

Just put my board up if anyone is interested in it!

http://www.overclock.net/main-components/995272-sale-gigabyte-ga-890fxa-ud5-amd.html#post13197928


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13196085*
> I'm happy with 1666 myself. 2000 is likely going to require rather slack timings, which won't be very helpful on the AM3 platform. I've had the best of luck out of Corsair Dominator, but imagine XMS3 will do just fine, too.


Thuban's like higher ram frequencies,2000mhz is easy with the right IC's,Hypers are not the best for Thuban,you need PSC's,Hypers dont play well with Thuban IMC's,they get too hot.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


Thuban's like higher ram frequencies,2000mhz is easy with the right IC's,Hypers are not the best for Thuban,you need PSC's,Hypers dont play well with Thuban IMC's,they get too hot.



















I would love to see some benchmarks between 1333, 1600, 1866, and 2000, all with as tight of timings as they can get within reasonable voltage, as well as with stock timings. It would make for a good comparison, and possibly shed some light on things a little more. I'd love to believe that, but my experiences tell me quite the opposite. Proof, man...we need proof, especially for naysayers (ignorant or otherwise).


----------



## moorhen2

Proof of what may i ask,


----------



## Blitz6804

He wants you to compare benches of DDR3-1333, DDR3-1600, DDR3-1866, and DDR3-2000 all at their absolute tightest timings and see which has better bandwidth / bench results.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Tightest possible as well as stock timings on those speeds. Benchmarks would be better, I think, as combined theoretical and real-world. It would pretty much put an end to any debates







. If we have a standard test suite for all the UD5 users as well, we can find which RAM modules will work best with the boards.

I'm willing to pitch in some stock timed 1333 (CL9) 1600 (CL8) and 1866 (if it will even run..board hates it). I'll see what the 1600 can do, because nothing else will tighten its timings on my UD5.

Of course, we just need to come up with tests.


----------



## moorhen2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Tightest possible as well as stock timings on those speeds. Benchmarks would be better, I think, as combined theoretical and real-world. It would pretty much put an end to any debates







. If we have a standard test suite for all the UD5 users as well, we can find which RAM modules will work best with the boards.

I'm willing to pitch in some stock timed 1333 (CL9) 1600 (CL8) and 1866 (if it will even run..board hates it). I'll see what the 1600 can do, because nothing else will tighten its timings on my UD5.

Of course, we just need to come up with tests.


People need to understand that 90% of ram is manufactured for the Intel systems,sad but true.So having this in mind,you have to make adjustments accordingly to get it to play nicely on AMD systems,this usualy means more voltage to the ram and IMC/NB,and playing with timings/sub timings,etc.You cant expect to drop your "made for I7 ram"in your board and away you go.

All i said in my OP was Thuban can run 2000mhz without problems,but not very well with Hyper IC's,PSC is the way to go if you want higher ram frequencies,Hypers just run to hot,and Thubans hate heat,wether that be core or IMC.


----------



## klaxian

I have my OCZ Reaper HPC's running at 1535MHz with CL5 (see system specs below). I find that gives me the best combination of throughput and latency. I haven't seen tighter timings than that.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moorhen2*


People need to understand that 90% of ram is manufactured for the Intel systems,sad but true.So having this in mind,you have to make adjustments accordingly to get it to play nicely on AMD systems,this usualy means more voltage to the ram and IMC/NB,and playing with timings/sub timings,etc.You cant expect to drop your "made for I7 ram"in your board and away you go.

All i said in my OP was Thuban can run 2000mhz without problems,but not very well with Hyper IC's,PSC is the way to go if you want higher ram frequencies,Hypers just run to hot,and Thubans hate heat,wether that be core or IMC.


I haven't looked into specific ICs on each DIMM much...at least not since the DDR1 days of Winbond BH5, etc. From what I'm seeing in the past 10 minutes, however, there are more than just Hyper and PSC. Model numbers would be needed. I'd still love to see more proof


----------



## crunchie

I ran Maxxmem with my Flares @ 1600, 1800 and 2000Mhz and the 2000Mhz definitely had the best results.


----------



## shajack

i support this...this memories thingy is giving me a headache

d new rma'd mushkin always failed blend within 5 minutes;failed core something.

resorted to increasing the vcore and vimc to safest maximum while keeping the ram on default settings.6 hours without a single core failing.

lowering the voltage and testing it


----------



## christoph

I got 1600 MHz 7-9-7-27-1

what test do I run?


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


I got 1600 MHz 7-9-7-27-1

what test do I run?


memtest is always good

I cant remember off the top of my head, but does our board (UD5) have a LLC featuer, if so, does anyone use it other than the Crosshair boys? I remember reading to disable C1 CnQ as well as CPU vert but also remember something about disabling LLC. The crosshair board owners use it, but makes me wonder why people would trun it off. I supposed for the PhII's if your running close to the 1.55v you wouldnt want LLC tossing more V at your chip underload but would that really be the only reason to it off?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;13221492*
> memtest is always good
> 
> I cant remember off the top of my head, but does our board (UD5) have a LLC featuer, if so, does anyone use it other than the Crosshair boys? I remember reading to disable C1 CnQ as well as CPU vert but also remember something about disabling LLC. The crosshair board owners use it, but makes me wonder why people would trun it off. I supposed for the PhII's if your running close to the 1.55v you wouldnt want LLC tossing more V at your chip underload but would that really be the only reason to it off?


yeah, but actually hmmmm

is kinda long, but LLC actually keeps the voltage stable IF/WHEN the voltage drops, so you actaully need less voltage to keep it stable as you may always have a clean stable voltage line

and yeah, kinda stress the cpu a little more due the voltage, so IF you turn it off you CAN go higher on the Vcore voltage

perhaps is a decision of the user whether use it or not, depending of the results I guess

oh and yes UD5 boards have the option...


----------



## crunchie

I don't remember seeing LLC in my F3 bios. Is it called something else?


----------



## Scotso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lab Rat;13171501*
> Wondering what speeds would get with Sata 3 on this board, if I upgraded to a Vertex 3. Anyone know?


I also would like to know this, as I've been eyeing the Vertex 3 as my first upgrade.

I know some boards with 6gb/s still can't use the drive to its full potential because of their controller, and I haven't been able to find out whether that's true of the UD5.

Would I be better off just getting another 64GB C300 and putting them in raid 0? I haven't tried that with this board, but I'm pretty sure it's capable.

I was thinking of going with the Vertex 3 and putting my C300 in my ultraportable.


----------



## Scotso

Also, half the stuff said on these boards goes way over my head. I understand the basics, but are there any books or websites out there with a lot of information about overclocking and such that condenses the information better than plowing through a bunch of disjointed threads with differing theories? I'd just like to read something that explains everything on a basic level.

I learned enough trolling these forums to build and overclock my computer, but I still don't really understand anything about memory timings and such.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


I got 1600 MHz 7-9-7-27-1

what test do I run?


I can do 6-8-6-20-24-1T @1600mhz. Run Prime 95, IBT, Memtest.


----------



## ht_addict

whats the max voltage on the NB(not CPU-NB) can take?


----------



## christoph

I think I can do 6-8-6 as well, but haven't test as right now have stablility and no issues at all, but should be able to either go higher in MHz or tighten timings

as for the NB, well don't really but I think 1.3v, but remember that this particular NB runs hot already


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scotso*


Also, half the stuff said on these boards goes way over my head. I understand the basics, but are there any books or websites out there with a lot of information about overclocking and such that condenses the information better than plowing through a bunch of disjointed threads with differing theories? I'd just like to read something that explains everything on a basic level.

I learned enough trolling these forums to build and overclock my computer, but I still don't really understand anything about memory timings and such.



at the beginning of this thread, there's a overclocking guide, and in the forum of CPUs there's a guide for the CPU


----------



## jjceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Scotso*


Also, half the stuff said on these boards goes way over my head. I understand the basics, but are there any books or websites out there with a lot of information about overclocking and such that condenses the information better than plowing through a bunch of disjointed threads with differing theories? I'd just like to read something that explains everything on a basic level.

I learned enough trolling these forums to build and overclock my computer, but I still don't really understand anything about memory timings and such.


Scott, here is a thread from another websight that was helpful to me. It doesn't talk much abount memory timings but was very helpful on the CPU, nb and other issues. I hope it helps you like it did me. Best regards, jjceo

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=645196


----------



## ht_addict

Just curious if anyone with a 1055T @4.2Ghz has it running stable? Need to know:

1. CPU Voltage
2. CPU-NB speed and voltage
3. Memory Speed and voltage
4. Did you play with any other voltage setings?
5. What BIOS do you run? I'm on F4

I can get my CPU to boot to 4.2Ghz, but unstable in Prime and IBT. Checkout my pics. On water cooling


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;13278200*
> Just curious if anyone with a 1055T @4.2Ghz has it running stable? Need to know:
> 
> 1. CPU Voltage
> 2. CPU-NB speed and voltage
> 3. Memory Speed and voltage
> 4. Did you play with any other voltage setings?
> 5. What BIOS do you run? I'm on F4
> 
> I can get my CPU to boot to 4.2Ghz, but unstable in Prime and IBT. Checkout my pics. On water cooling


How long it's stable? What error do you get?

I think that one of your problems is have all RAM slots full, AMD's IMC doesn't work well with full RAM slot and overclocking.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


How long it's stable? What error do you get?

I think that one of your problems is have all RAM slots full, AMD's IMC doesn't work well with full RAM slot and overclocking.


Yes I believe that is true. From what I have gathered. OC's seem most stable and high when you only have 2 sticks of RAM in. But I was wondering if it matters how much memory is in the 2 slots (4GB vs 8GB)?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YangerD*


Yes I believe that is true. From what I have gathered. OC's seem most stable and high when you only have 2 sticks of RAM in. But I was wondering if it matters how much memory is in the 2 slots (4GB vs 8GB)?


AFAIK only affect when you have all slots full and not 2x4GB in only two RAM slots.


----------



## -X3-

Got my 890FXA-UD5 few days ago ^_^

Beautiful mobo

And I have a problem - where can I get the retention bracket & screws for this..?
I can see 4 holes arranged as a rectangle around the processor.


----------



## pavey

Hey guys, bought this mobo last week along with upgrading everything else and am having issues, here's my setup

GA 890FXA UD5
XFX radeon HD 6870 1gb
650w antec PSU
AMD phenom x6 1090t
Ripjaw 8gb 1600
Seagate barracuda 500gb SATA

Ok, now this is where the problem starts!
Have been trying to install windows 7 x64 and have spent at least 10 hours trying different combinations of settings. To begin, stock bios settings, hdd not detected in setup, install drivers, still not detected. Dicked around with that for a few hours, finally burnt a bootable partioning program onto a disc, saw the drive fine, partitioned it and continued into win7 setup. Partition detected without drivers installed, continue to install. It copies files ten when coming to expand files it fails. This happens when drivers are loaded as well. Have tried switching between native IDE and ahci on mobo, neither work. Have tried sata 0, 1, 2, 5 and the white sata points. Hdd isn't detected in bios when in ahci mode, only ide and only if in sata0 but will detect in ahci mode in the white sata points. Have tried partitioning first half and last half of drive, have tried partitioning in the win7 installer after the drive was detected and have tried formatting the partitions I have created. Just installed windows xp x32 with no dramas. So I am completely stuck as to why I cant install win7 on my new computer! Tried a search in this thread and found nothing relevant and have searched google with every combination of keywords I can think of and all solutions have still got me nowhere. Someone out there tell me they can help!


----------



## bajer29

Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but could this be a boot loader problem?

@pavey What BIOS version are you using?


----------



## pavey

F6. Would that be the case though if I've installed winxp successfully?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pavey;13289756*
> F6. Would that be the case though if I've installed winxp successfully?


You should be fine F6 since it's the latest update. I'm going to stop here though and give you a bump because I don't want to steer you in a wrong direction.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13287040*
> Got my 890FXA-UD5 few days ago ^_^
> 
> Beautiful mobo
> 
> And I have a problem - *where can I get the retention bracket & screws for this..?*
> I can see 4 holes arranged as a rectangle around the processor.


What do you mean with that? Do you want install a CPU cooler for your processor? Add a picture if you can.

btw, welcome to the club.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pavey;13288999*
> Hey guys, bought this mobo last week along with upgrading everything else and am having issues, here's my setup
> 
> GA 890FXA UD5
> XFX radeon HD 6870 1gb
> 650w antec PSU
> AMD phenom x6 1090t
> Ripjaw 8gb 1600
> Seagate barracuda 500gb SATA
> 
> Ok, now this is where the problem starts!
> Have been trying to install windows 7 x64 and have spent at least 10 hours trying different combinations of settings. To begin, stock bios settings, hdd not detected in setup, install drivers, still not detected. Dicked around with that for a few hours, finally burnt a bootable partioning program onto a disc, saw the drive fine, partitioned it and continued into win7 setup. Partition detected without drivers installed, continue to install. It copies files ten when coming to expand files it fails. This happens when drivers are loaded as well. Have tried switching between native IDE and ahci on mobo, neither work. Have tried sata 0, 1, 2, 5 and the white sata points. Hdd isn't detected in bios when in ahci mode, only ide and only if in sata0 but will detect in ahci mode in the white sata points. Have tried partitioning first half and last half of drive, have tried partitioning in the win7 installer after the drive was detected and have tried formatting the partitions I have created. Just installed windows xp x32 with no dramas. So I am completely stuck as to why I cant install win7 on my new computer! Tried a search in this thread and found nothing relevant and have searched google with every combination of keywords I can think of and all solutions have still got me nowhere. Someone out there tell me they can help!


Did you tried with another Win 7 DVD? How is your RAM congifiguration? 4x2GB or 2x4GB.


----------



## soma1509

Right, so I hate to be the guy plaguing a thread with an issue question, but I thought it would be more appropriate here.

Has anyone had any problems getting their system to sleep with this motherboard? It's just not working for me. The system goes to sleep and shuts the screen off, but the rest of the machine is still on as I can hear my fans running. Lastly, I can't wake it up no matter what I try. My only option is to do a hard reset.

*This happens whether on stock or overclocked settings.
*I have set S3 option in BIOS already.
*I have enabled wake-up through USB, mouse [Double-Click], and Keyboard [ANY KEY].
*HPET is enabled.
*I have tried the ErP option to no avail.
*I am using BIOS F5 and would like to stick with it since F6 doesn't have half multipliers.
*I have done a quick search and found that there's a hotfix for Win7 SP1. I have installed the hotfix without any good results.
*I installed the latest drivers by downloading the 11.3 drivers from amd. I tried installing the SB and AHCI drivers to see if that would help and it hasn't done anything.

Are there any suggestions anyone can give me to solve this little nag?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soma1509*


Right, so I hate to be the guy plaguing a thread with an issue question, but I thought it would be more appropriate here.

Has anyone had any problems getting their system to sleep with this motherboard? It's just not working for me. The system goes to sleep and shuts the screen off, but the rest of the machine is still on as I can hear my fans running. Lastly, I can't wake it up no matter what I try. My only option is to do a hard reset.

*This happens whether on stock or overclocked settings.
*I have set S3 option in BIOS already.
*I have enabled wake-up through USB, mouse [Double-Click], and Keyboard [ANY KEY].
*HPET is enabled.
*I have tried the ErP option to no avail.
*I am using BIOS F5 and would like to stick with it since F6 doesn't have half multipliers.
*I have done a quick search and found that there's a hotfix for Win7 SP1. I have installed the hotfix without any good results.
*I installed the latest drivers by downloading the 11.3 drivers from amd. I tried installing the SB and AHCI drivers to see if that would help and it hasn't done anything.

Are there any suggestions anyone can give me to solve this little nag?


Disable "turn off hard drive" option in windows power options.


----------



## soma1509

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Disable "turn off hard drive" option in windows power options.


I did that, and it didn't really do much...or so I thought.

But here's the funny part, I found out that the sleep option DOES in fact work. It's just taking over 2 minutes to actually shut off the system. Is that even normal? I can shut down my PC much faster than I can make it sleep. Perhaps it takes a while to allocate all of the data in memory or something. My 6 year old Toshiba Laptop can sleep much faster; granted it's only using 2GB of RAM.

Anyway, at least I'm glad the sleep/hibernate function actually works. But it's just not up to par compared to shutting my system down completely. Although it did start right back up very snappy.

Thanks for the help, BTW.


----------



## christoph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soma1509*


I did that, and it didn't really do much...or so I thought.

But here's the funny part, I found out that the sleep option DOES in fact work. It's just taking over 2 minutes to actually shut off the system. Is that even normal? I can shut down my PC much faster than I can make it sleep. Perhaps it takes a while to allocate all of the data in memory or something. My 6 year old Toshiba Laptop can sleep much faster; granted it's only using 2GB of RAM.

Anyway, at least I'm glad the sleep/hibernate function actually works. But it's just not up to par compared to shutting my system down completely. Although it did start right back up very snappy.

Thanks for the help, BTW.



perhaps your system is not that stable

what CPU-NB voltage you're using?


----------



## soma1509

Quote:



Originally Posted by *christoph*


perhaps your system is not that stable

what CPU-NB voltage you're using?


Current voltage settings:

VCore = 1.450V
CPU-NB = 1.250V
VMem = 1.824V
HT = 1.300V

Frequencies:

CPU = 4.050GHz
Mem= 1.800GHz
CPU-NB = 2.700GHz
HT = 2.700GHz

But again, this happens whether I'm running stock or overclocked. CPU-NB runs at 1.15V when at stock.

I had the CPU-NB voltage way up to 1.35V before, but I am still in the process of finding the lowest stable voltage. I will increase it back again to see if it makes any difference, but considering it's hot in my room and my CPU CORE temps are as of right now in the mid 40's, I don't think it would be good to push it harder.

While were on the subject of voltages, since my memory is heavily overclocked, I am assuming that as long as I don't touch 1.9V, I should be ok with the memory...right? Because the 1.65V restriction doesn't apply to AMD systems. Although I also understand that some memory manufacturers actually build their memory sticks to only tolerate 1.65V. Is that true though? If it was, my Corsair Memory would've been long fried by now XD


----------



## Blitz6804

If nothing else, your hypertransport is too fast. Drop the multiplier to 7x for 2100 MHz.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


If nothing else, your hypertransport is too fast. Drop the multiplier to 7x for 2100 MHz.


This


----------



## soma1509

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


If nothing else, your hypertransport is too fast. Drop the multiplier to 7x for 2100 MHz.


Yeah, I took that into consideration. But this small issue is still happening even if every setting was back at stock speeds. I just tried to make it sleep now with no change of the time it takes to turn off. Does this usually happen with a lot of memory installed? My OS is on a single 7200RPM 160GB Hard drive.


----------



## Blitz6804

It should take longer for your PC to go to sleep than to turn off if I remember right. However, the time to sleep + time to resume will be less than the time to turn off, then back on. Hibernate (the most that I will use) should be between the two.


----------



## soma1509

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


It should take longer for your PC to go to sleep than to turn off if I remember right. However, the time to sleep + time to resume will be less than the time to turn off, then back on. Hibernate (the most that I will use) should be between the two.


That sounds about right. I guess I was simply expecting my system to be just as quick to sleep as it does when it shuts down or restarts. Though I guess my hard drive will always be the limiting factor. Hopefully later on in the summer I might be able to afford a pair of SSD's for RAID0 and see if that makes any drastic difference. Otherwise I'll just live with it.


----------



## pavey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Did you tried with another Win 7 DVD? How is your RAM congifiguration? 4x2GB or 2x4GB.


Hmm, will search for another disc today. Also ram is 2x4GB


----------



## zylonite

Is this normal?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

It looks like you've got some clock playing going on. Maybe the drivers are having your card idle. Are you running any video card overclocking software (Trixx, Afterburner, etc.)? These may be causing that issue. I use Trixx myself, and must manually change the clock settings if I'm going to game or not. I can still game at 400 Mhz core, but it's not quite as potent. Still, I can get a very playable game of L4D2 going on.


----------



## Blitz6804

I would say it is not zylonite. Regardless of what my cards' actual clocks are at the moment (due to driver-based downclocking) my cards always read a solid 920 MHz on the front page. Are you running any of the programs UnexplodedCow mentioned? When you took that screen shot, were you under load? It is possible you were over the PWM envelope, at which point, the cards underclock themselves to stay below 250 W/card.


----------



## shajack

just 100mhz drop?
my 560 Ti drop half from 900MHz to 450MHz

a question tho...what is the safe max vimc and tmpin2 temperature on UD5?
I'm hitting 54'c with 1.5v while trying to oc to 3.9GHz


----------



## Blitz6804

Not talking about 2D/3D here, I am talking about the "Power Control" settings unique to the HD 6xxx series. In order to keep below 250 W (stock; it is 200 W at -20%, and 300 W at +20%, at least for the HD 6970) the card will automatically downclock itself as needed. If you are under somewhat heavy load (Metro 2033) it may only underclock a couple-dozen megahertz. If you are under massive load (Furmark extreme burning mode) it may drop a good two or three hundred.


----------



## -X3-

Hey guys need your help










I installed my 890FXA-UD5, and I have some problems loading the desktop... It recognizes my HDD and the oprating system, and in the Starting animation, it freezes and restarts (monitor shows no signal, and 1 sec after that it restarts)...

There's an option in the Advanced Bios menu that called Init Display... I tried every option, whether is PEG, or PEG1, or PEG2 or PEG3, and the same problem occurs.

Help?









My specs in my sig, but the proc is not unlocked yet, ATM it's 550 only.
Also, I would like to note that I don't think my pus has anything to do with that. On my previous E7200 it worked fine w/ my GTX 460 at full load. Here I believe it's some sort of bios issue.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-X3-*


Hey guys need your help









I installed my 890FXA-UD5, and I have some problems loading the desktop... It recognizes my HDD and the oprating system, and in the Starting animation, it freezes and restarts (monitor shows no signal, and 1 sec after than restarts)...

There's an option in the Advanced Bios menu that called Init Display... I tried every option, whether is PEG, or PEG1, or PEG2 or PEG3, and the same problem occurs.

Help?









My specs in my sig, but the proc is not unlocked yet, ATM it's 550 only.


Remove and install the RAM, reset the BIOS and select "load default settings". Do you get the same problem in safe mode?


----------



## -X3-

I don't get this problem in safe mode (if I choose system repair, it loads the desktop okay). If I continue, it resets in that Windows 7 Starting animation...

Also, it recognizes the RAM, before it loads the bios, it writes that it has 4094MB RAM.
But I did notice that the memory are running at 1333MHz, should I manually change it to 1600MHz, or it is unnecessary at the moment?


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-X3-*


I don't get this problem in safe mode (if I choose system repair, it loads the desktop okay). If I continue, it resets in that Windows 7 Starting animation...

Also, it recognizes the RAM, before it loads the bios, it writes that it has 4094MB RAM.
But I did notice that the memory are running at 1333MHz, should I manually change it to 1600MHz, or it is unnecessary at the moment?


May have to do a system repair. Hopefully most everything you have done is either on a secondary hard drive or in your my doc's folders so that the restore wont do too much. You made sure to install the drivers for the new board before installing it into an already exsisting windows install?

Also, your PSU COULD be the problem here. My system pulls almost 500w at load. This however is not what I think your problem is. It to me sounds like you installed the mobo with an exsisting install of windows without loading the drivers first.

I base this off of what you have said, safe mode works, it should it loads only the bare min of drivers as well as plug and play drivers for most hardware, the same as what a restore or install of windows would do. You can probably go into safe mode and install the drivers and may have a chance of bringing your system back without a repair.


----------



## -X3-

Hmm that's a nice idea, I'll try reformatting the OS, thanks !









By the way, what value is chosen in that Init Display option at your bios?


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13387102*
> Hmm that's a nice idea, I'll try reformatting the OS, thanks !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, what value is chosen in that Init Display option at your bios?


Depends on where your primary card is installed. I use PEG because my primary card is in the first pci slot. For more info go to page 48 in your manual.


----------



## -X3-

My card is installed on the PCIEX16_1, the closest to the CPU socket, so it's probably PEG.

And what about the memory? Should I manualy set the frequency to 1600MHz (BIOS thinks it's 1333MHz).


----------



## Shunrai

i would like to join i have an Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 on my desktop. I will show my cpu-z later if you will want i have 2 but they are under the computer name and not my username


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13387609*
> My card is installed on the PCIEX16_1, the closest to the CPU socket, so it's probably PEG.
> 
> And what about the memory? Should I manualy set the frequency to 1600MHz (BIOS thinks it's 1333MHz).


Once you set your ram to manual, it isnt like some boards where you tell it you want it at 1600 and it does the rest (i know they run of multi's but is a bit simpler). This board you get to chose your multi and go from there. I actually set my FSB to what will make my ram as close to 1600 as I could and then changed my CPU (Northbridge and HT) multi to reflect my changes.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;13387745*
> Once you set your ram to manual, it isnt like some boards where you tell it you want it at 1600 and it does the rest (i know they run of multi's but is a bit simpler). This board you get to chose your multi and go from there. I actually set my FSB to what will make my ram as close to 1600 as I could and then changed my CPU (Northbridge and HT) multi to reflect my changes.


Wow man, thank you !
I installed vista, and everything seems to be working, thanks a lot, I really appreciate your help
I'll rep in a minute

I'll deal with the RAM later, It's not very important at the moment...

Also, I would like to join the club, I took the CPU-Z picture of my 890FX.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13388241*
> Wow man, thank you !
> I installed vista, and everything seems to be working, thanks a lot, I really appreciate your help
> I'll rep in a minute
> 
> I'll deal with the RAM later, It's not very important at the moment...
> 
> Also, I would like to join the club, I took the CPU-Z picture of my 890FX.


Welcome to the club!


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;13388253*
> Welcome to the club!


Thanks

Do I need to take a picture of the CPU window? I have it unlocked to B50, this board unlocks cores so easily ^^


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13388530*
> Thanks
> 
> Do I need to take a picture of the CPU window? I have it unlocked to B50, this board unlocks cores so easily ^^


CPU-Z is fine. Unlock some people, my wiring isnt as clean as Id like it to be so I don't normally take pictures of the inside of my case


----------



## Blitz6804

Wait a minute -X3-... you only have a 400 W PSU? I think that will die under hard load...

-X3- and Shunrai: You must add yourself to the club roster with this GoogleDocs link.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13389874*
> Wait a minute -X3-... you only have a 400 W PSU? I think that will die under hard load...
> 
> -X3- and Shunrai: You must add yourself to the club roster with this GoogleDocs link.


Didn't die in my previous system. I had an overclocked E7200 & GTX 460, and it passed kombustor stable.

One more question, disabling C1E is a must?


----------



## Blitz6804

No. I have C1E and CnQ both enabled in my rig.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13390597*
> No. I have C1E and CnQ both enabled in my rig.


Oh, so it's okay to leave them enabled?

Okay


----------



## Shunrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13389874*
> -X3- and Shunrai: You must add yourself to the club roster with this GoogleDocs link.


Done. Now i need to look in to overclocking my cpu i wonder how fast i can get it to go just for giggles.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shunrai;13398269*
> Done. Now i need to look in to overclocking my cpu i wonder how fast i can get it to go just for giggles.


Slush box + suicide run = win?

Prolly drop 1.65v+ on it and get close to 4.5Ghz, but my guess is it would take more thank 1.65v to get 4.5Ghz, but thats just my guess. The CPU-NB is what will really get hammered and without good cooling on it, and your ram too, it would be a suicide run indeed.


----------



## Shunrai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285*


Slush box + suicide run = win?

Prolly drop 1.65v+ on it and get close to 4.5Ghz, but my guess is it would take more thank 1.65v to get 4.5Ghz, but thats just my guess. The CPU-NB is what will really get hammered and without good cooling on it, and your ram too, it would be a suicide run indeed.


im pretty much new to overclocking. Ive never been a hardware guy more a software kind of guy. i should have fill out more on the member list now that i look at it but i got lazy. i would like to try to get to 4ghz tho not that i every really need any of my cpu lol


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shunrai*


im pretty much new to overclocking. Ive never been a hardware guy more a software kind of guy. i should have fill out more on the member list now that i look at it but i got lazy. i would like to try to get to 4ghz tho not that i every really need any of my cpu lol


1090T's should be easier (though not always are). There are lots of members in this thread with 1090T's that can help ya. Usually from what I see amongst us PhIIx6'ers is that 1.475v on the CPU, 1.425v on CPU-NB (for me atleast, to keep from failing WU's while folding) , keeping your HT around 2000-2100Mhz (its ok if its slightly under or over), and some decent cooling for running Prime95 for stability.

Here is a very good guide that helped me get started.


----------



## Blitz6804

For those club members not already aware, I would like to draw your attention to the 2011 Chimp Challenge. As some may know, we won in 2009, but lost to EVGA in 2010, and are currently losing to Hardware Canucks.

We cannot let this happen!

If you already fold, and you have not yet switched over your clients to "OCNChimpin" of team 37726, please do so now.

If you do not yet fold, and need any help getting set up, please do not hesitate to message me, we will get you rolling.

EDIT: Those of you with hexacores who use SMP folding (after you have entered the passkey on that front page) can really help out the cause, in that each work unit is 0.3% of a chimp point. That is, if we all pool together and get 335 WUs a day, our club can contribute one chimp point a day! (Quads are decent, but not as good as the hexes.) For those of you with nVidia cards, crank those up! They output even more folding power in the same time frame as SMP does. (ATi is sketchy, at best.)

My hope is that we will turn out to be the most productive OCN club this Chimp Challenge!


----------



## saint19

I can hit the 4.6GHz for validation with 1.65V on core.


----------



## fidof650

My apologies for my absence. I was required to attend a training academy for an unexpected job change and subsequently had limited internet access. Some of the procedural changes to P1 are to assure that this club is properly maintained as I will no longer be online 10+ hrs/day but will instead be responding to notifications.

I remain committed to aggregating data about these boards and maintaining an informative Q&A format on P1.

I will no longer be scouring the thread for new members to add to the list but will be happy to add members who make a request via PM and will continue to maintain the spreadsheets.

Inclusion in the CPU-Z Validated member spreadsheet is still autonomous.

P1 updated:
New content added
Content updated
Some membership procedures have been modified
Memory recommendation submission procedure has been modified
Spreadsheets Audited / Corrected 
Thank you, for your continued patronage.
Kind regards, 
~fidof650


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


For those club members not already aware, I would like to draw your attention to the 2011 Chimp Challenge. As some may know, we won in 2009, but lost to EVGA in 2010, and are currently losing to Hardware Canucks.

We cannot let this happen!

If you already fold, and you have not yet switched over your clients to "OCNChimpin" of team 37726, please do so now.

If you do not yet fold, and need any help getting set up, please do not hesitate to message me, we will get you rolling.

EDIT: Those of you with hexacores who use SMP folding (after you have entered the passkey on that front page) can really help out the cause, in that each work unit is 0.3% of a chimp point. That is, if we all pool together and get 335 WUs a day, our club can contribute one chimp point a day! (Quads are decent, but not as good as the hexes.) For those of you with nVidia cards, crank those up! They output even more folding power in the same time frame as SMP does. (ATi is sketchy, at best.)

My hope is that we will turn out to be the most productive OCN club this Chimp Challenge!



If I were still folding (stopped about 3 years ago) I'd be all over this and help out. Sadly, I can't chuck any more income at the power bill for a little while, although it would be fun to be part of the challenge.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is only for a few days. (Granted, yes, I know that is how it starts. "It is only a few days." "Oh, what is a few more days." "Eh, why not a little longer?" "Wait, my power bill is HOW much!?")


----------



## UnexplodedCow

True. I might bring in both machines with me (x4 3.6 Ghz and x6 4.0) in the latter half (after the weekend) of the competition. I imagine that might help the cause more than just one hex would.

Edit: Jumped in, as I'm not going anywhere for the weekend (I build an engine as the compy folds proteins).


----------



## -X3-

So what values exactly should I define in Bios in order to make my memory work at 1600MHz? Changing the multi from 6.66 to 8 isn't enough for that?


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13406014*
> So what values exactly should I define in Bios in order to make my memory work at 1600MHz? Changing the multi from 6.66 to 8 isn't enough for that?


The multi goes off the fab, so what I did was up my fsb to get my ram to 1600, then set my cpu multi

DX GB Rooted Tapa Tapa


----------



## Shunrai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285*


1090T's should be easier (though not always are). There are lots of members in this thread with 1090T's that can help ya. Usually from what I see amongst us PhIIx6'ers is that 1.475v on the CPU, 1.425v on CPU-NB (for me atleast, to keep from failing WU's while folding) , keeping your HT around 2000-2100Mhz (its ok if its slightly under or over), and some decent cooling for running Prime95 for stability.

Here is a very good guide that helped me get started.


ill look in to that but most likely i need some help sadly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


For those club members not already aware, I would like to draw your attention to the 2011 Chimp Challenge. As some may know, we won in 2009, but lost to EVGA in 2010, and are currently losing to Hardware Canucks.

We cannot let this happen!

If you already fold, and you have not yet switched over your clients to "OCNChimpin" of team 37726, please do so now.

If you do not yet fold, and need any help getting set up, please do not hesitate to message me, we will get you rolling.

EDIT: Those of you with hexacores who use SMP folding (after you have entered the passkey on that front page) can really help out the cause, in that each work unit is 0.3% of a chimp point. That is, if we all pool together and get 335 WUs a day, our club can contribute one chimp point a day! (Quads are decent, but not as good as the hexes.) For those of you with nVidia cards, crank those up! They output even more folding power in the same time frame as SMP does. (ATi is sketchy, at best.)

My hope is that we will turn out to be the most productive OCN club this Chimp Challenge!


i love to help out overclocking.net but i have no clue on how to any of that and i think i have a really nice desktop but im not looking to kill it or anything (spent a crapload on it) i am curious as to what folding and ocnchimpin is tho

people can pm or or send me a invite on msn yahoo or skype pm if you want to add me on any of those protocols so i can give the usernames i use for them just tell who you are when adding me. trying to keep the usernames private lately been getting a lot of spim on them so i want to keep them private as i use the messengers on my phone as well and they dont block that kind stuff like well like the desktop versions do i would love to learn tho


----------



## shajack

what's the max safest temp on tmpin2?while folding im hitting 54'c
vimc 1.45v
vcore 1.45v
vdimm 1.51v

oc'd to 3780MHz and my ram can't get any higher than 1440Mhz or stability issue occurs


----------



## Blitz6804

Shunrai: All my IM clients are under my pic, by all means pick one, and I can help you set it up.

shajack: 54º C is fine... I would not worry until you see 60º C.


----------



## Shunrai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Shunrai: All my IM clients are under my pic, by all means pick one, and I can help you set it up.


using my netbook right now but i can add you on msn and yahoo on my phone. ill add you on skype to when i get a chance. I mostly use msn then skype then yahoo. i use trillian on my phone doesnt have skype tho. anyways send you a invite on them mostly likely be able to catch me on one of them. then we can get started


----------



## Randed

Hey guys, I want to join, I love this board!

Here's my Cpu-z s/s:


----------



## -X3-

My NB temp during Black OPS is around 50C, and 39C idle, it's okay?

And also, does the CPU cooler has any influence on the NB temp?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13467444*
> My NB temp during Black OPS is around 50C, and 39C idle, it's okay?
> 
> And also, does the CPU cooler has any influence on the NB temp?


It's supposed to be alright, but my NB was this warm very few times, and I didn't like it. The VRM section was equally hot. As for your second question; yes, the CPU cooler will affect NB temps, simply by how air is flowing. My board ran cooler with a Noctua C12P instead of a CoolerMaster Hyper212+, because of air blowing down, over the board, instead of across.


----------



## Blitz6804

For sake of sharing, I thought I would mention this thread of mine. It looks like these BIOSes might star to "slip" after a while. My PC has been getting more and more unstable and sluggish, regardless of what I did to it. I tried flashing to F4, then back to F3, and now it seems to be back on the ball. It will take a few days to confirm this though.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


For sake of sharing, I thought I would mention this thread of mine. It looks like these BIOSes might star to "slip" after a while. My PC has been getting more and more unstable and sluggish, regardless of what I did to it. I tried flashing to F4, then back to F3, and now it seems to be back on the ball. It will take a few days to confirm this though.


This is an interesting proposition. I've noticed my rig has started acting a little odd at times. Most notably it's given me SMART errors on my boot drive. I mostly ignore them now since the drive has passed every test I've thrown at it. It can also be a little sluggish at odd times. I may try re-flashing the BIOS to see if that resolves the issue. I imagine at stock it would be fine, but I have grown accustomed to the enhanced speed.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13524554*
> For sake of sharing, I thought I would mention this thread of mine. It looks like these BIOSes might star to "slip" after a while. My PC has been getting more and more unstable and sluggish, regardless of what I did to it. I tried flashing to F4, then back to F3, and now it seems to be back on the ball. It will take a few days to confirm this though.


Was going to mention your thread here today. Beat me to it.

DX GB Rooted Tapa Tapa


----------



## Biokinetica

Is three hours with no errors good enough? I want to go on to 4+Ghz, but don't know what to do about the voltage since it's still set to auto.


----------



## Blitz6804

Biokinetica: I would say it is not, but ultimately, that is a decision you must reach on your own. There is no such thing as a "stable" rig, only "stable enough," and if three hours is good enough for you, then it is fine. My rig passed 24 hours, and look at all the problems I am still having with it.


----------



## trevorjames

Just a quick question, if I had the GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 2.1 would it be possible to upgrade the BIOS to support what the 3.1 revision offers, AM3+ CPU's? This was what the retailer told me was true but I just wanted to verify as it doesn't entirely make sense to me.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trevorjames;13538644*
> Just a quick question, if I had the GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 2.1 would it be possible to upgrade the BIOS to support what the 3.1 revision offers, AM3+ CPU's? This was what the retailer told me was true but I just wanted to verify as it doesn't entirely make sense to me.


According to Gigabyte, no. They responded some time ago to another user regarding that question. I also doubt they'll be releasing a new BIOS any time in the future. I don't know if they responded to an upgrade question, where the non 3.1 owners would be able to exchange for a 3.1 board, for free or minimal charge.


----------



## trevorjames

I managed to break the PCI-E slot of my GA-890GPA so I had contacted a retailer about the FXA. They had the last one in stock with the revision of 2.1 so I may as well just order from Newegg for the 3.1.

Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## saifbukhari

Hi Folks, I have the Ga 890FXA UD5, and I just wanted to confirm that will 2x4GB Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz ram sticks will work ? I mean if there are any user's who currently use the same. I am asking this because on Gigabytes website it shows "Support for DDR3 2000(OC)/1333/1066 MHz memory modules" where they dont mention 1600Mhz and also because I recently returned 2 pairs of Gskil Ripjaws 1600 Mhz Ram stick following a series of BSod's, and memtest errors. And got myself a pair of corsair xms3 1600 2x4gb modules, but I am very scared of opening the box as I dont want this to fail coz then again following an RMA would be very very difficult.

ANy help and advise in this direction will be greatly appreciated


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trevorjames;13540175*
> I managed to break the PCI-E slot of my GA-890GPA so I had contacted a retailer about the FXA. They had the last one in stock with the revision of 2.1 so I may as well just order from Newegg for the 3.1.
> 
> Thanks for the clarification.


How in the world did you do that? I've also used the 890-GPA, and found it to be a more cooperative board than the UD5, frankly. On top of that, it's been handling a 140 watt 965 for the better part of a year, with zero issues.


----------



## trevorjames

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


How in the world did you do that? I've also used the 890-GPA, and found it to be a more cooperative board than the UD5, frankly. On top of that, it's been handling a 140 watt 965 for the better part of a year, with zero issues.


Oh I reached the new ultimate ******ed level of _not_ releasing the latches attached to my two GPU's. I pulled and they came off with relative ease so I thought nothing was wrong until I saw that half the PCI E slot came with one, and the latch broke on the other.

Sometimes I wonder.

In comparison to the GPA then, would you say that the two x16 slots of the FXA are more suitable than the x16/x8 combination of the GPA for crossfire? Because besides that, I don't see the value in paying more for the FXA.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

The bandwidth between X8 and X16 is really a non-issue with current cards. If I remember, the GPA (UD3) will be x8/x8 with crossfire. I've seen some reviews between the differences, and I believe the performance gain with x16 is around 2%, which makes it a moot point. If you're really going to replace your board, I'd honestly suggest an Asus 890GX board, as I have one of those, too, and it's been the most solid of any AM3 board I've used, as well as running cold (room temp usually). The UD5 is a great board for more cross-firing, or heavy overclocking, but the Asus board has put up identical numbers.


----------



## trevorjames

I would go with the Asus board, however I do tend to overclock from time to time and I'd like a board that is going to be compatible with the new AMD CPU's coming out, so I'll need something that supports AM3+ Unfortunately the Asus ones that are are also a little out of my price range for a rookie mistake. But if you could recommend me another AM3+ board please do!


----------



## Biokinetica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Biokinetica: I would say it is not, but ultimately, that is a decision you must reach on your own. There is no such thing as a "stable" rig, only "stable enough," and if three hours is good enough for you, then it is fine. My rig passed 24 hours, and look at all the problems I am still having with it.


I ended up letting it go for seven hours before stopping it to do an update.

Would you have any advice on voltage and moving forward? So far, this is 225 Ã- 16 with the ram at 6-8-6-20T-2T.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trevorjames*


I would go with the Asus board, however I do tend to overclock from time to time and I'd like a board that is going to be compatible with the new AMD CPU's coming out, so I'll need something that supports AM3+ Unfortunately the Asus ones that are are also a little out of my price range for a rookie mistake. But if you could recommend me another AM3+ board please do!


The Asus AM3 890GX board is slated (according to Asus) to support AM3+ Bulldozer chips, albeit without some of the power gating features (not a big deal i.m.o.). Also, that board runs $10-$20 USD more than the UD3 you have, and at least $20 less than the UD5. To date the UD5 v3.1 is very tough to find online; one place has it for ~$230 US.

For what it's worth, I've dealt with about 5 different high end AM3 boards (790FX, 890GX/FX chipsets), and the Asus I linked above will stand toe-to-toe with the UD5, as I've had identical overclocks on a a 740BE and 1090T, but the Asus was far less flaky with RAM. I'm building a system for a family member, and am heavily considering letting them have my UD5, as it's been an underwhelming experience, especially for the price.


----------



## Blitz6804

trevorjames: Unless you have a dual-GPU board, 8x is fine for almost any GPU.

Biokinetica: I like to keep my voltage within 100 mV of spec if at all possible. For a Thuban, that would mean 1.425 V or lower, but since Turbo bumps that to 1.475 V, I would say no more than 1.450 V with Turbo disabled.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Hi, I have a question for UnexplodedCow but also anyone elce willing to help.

This may seem noobish but I simply want someone that knows what their talking about to re-enforce, correct and help the research into my next purchase.

I've just bought the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 rev 2.1 board, its installed with 8gb Corsair ram... A mish mash of 3x2gb 1333mhz cas9 Crosair XMS3 sticks and a generic 2gb 1333mhz Cas9 Corsair stick. Long story short, I had a dead stick, instead of RMA'ing the set, I was lazy and just threw in a stick of the same spec. Which is now causing my system to BSOD with a memory error.
I want 8gb of memory and I'd prefer if I could do it with 2 sticks rather than 4.
I simply don't like overclocking but it does interest me and as-long as I knew an over-clock would be 110% stable, I would do it.

So heres my question...
From this list (pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=186_538_913) could you please pick for me- a few sets of 2x4gb kits that would work straight out of the box and into my new system with no hassles, no nothing.
Then could you also pick out the 2x4gb kit that you would recommend, maybe some light over-clocking/tweaking if your willing to help me with it and I would be deeply appreciative if you did.

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Almost forgot the full system spec's...
MB: Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5
CPU: AMD 1090T - Noctua NH-C14
RAM: Corsair XMS3 2GB x 3 - Corsair generic 2GB
GPU1: Gigabyte HD-6970
GPU2: HIS HD-6970
SC: Asus Xonar D2X
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 60GB (OS)
HDD1: WD 1TB
HDD2: WD 600GB
PSU: SilverStone Strider 1000W

Everything at the moment is running at stock speed. But only because I'd prefer to have this system 100% stable.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


trevorjames: Unless you have a dual-GPU board, 8x is fine for almost any GPU.

Biokinetica: I like to keep my voltage within 100 mV of spec if at all possible. For a Thuban, that would mean 1.425 V or lower, but since Turbo bumps that to 1.475 V, I would say no more than 1.450 V with Turbo disabled.


Yup. .1 volts beyond stock is about where I draw the line for 24/7 OCing, even with water. I'm not really worried about the Thuban, since the chip can reliably run at turbo mode voltage for 24/7, but it will put out a considerable amount of heat with all 6 cores in use, and I believe that is why AMD created a limit. Besides, 4.0Ghz seems to be a sweet spot for many Thubans.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*


Hi, I have a question for UnexplodedCow but also anyone elce willing to help.

This may seem noobish but I simply want someone that knows what their talking about to re-enforce, correct and help the research into my next purchase.

I've just bought the Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 rev 2.1 board, its installed with 8gb Corsair ram... A mish mash of 3x2gb 1333mhz cas9 Crosair XMS3 sticks and a generic 2gb 1333mhz Cas9 Corsair stick. Long story short, I had a dead stick, instead of RMA'ing the set, I was lazy and just threw in a stick of the same spec. Which is now causing my system to BSOD with a memory error.
I want 8gb of memory and I'd prefer if I could do it with 2 sticks rather than 4.
I simply don't like overclocking but it does interest me and as-long as I knew an over-clock would be 110% stable, I would do it.

So heres my question...
From this list (pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=186_538_913) could you please pick for me- a few sets of 2x4gb kits that would work straight out of the box and into my new system with no hassles, no nothing.
Then could you also pick out the 2x4gb kit that you would recommend, maybe some light over-clocking/tweaking if your willing to help me with it and I would be deeply appreciative if you did.

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Almost forgot the full system spec's...
MB: Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5
CPU: AMD 1090T - Noctua NH-C14
RAM: Corsair XMS3 2GB x 3 - Corsair generic 2GB
GPU1: Gigabyte HD-6970
GPU2: HIS HD-6970
SC: Asus Xonar D2X
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 60GB (OS)
HDD1: WD 1TB
HDD2: WD 600GB
PSU: SilverStone Strider 1000W

Everything at the moment is running at stock speed. But only because I'd prefer to have this system 100% stable.



I have to admit that your system specs are pretty solid. That heatsink will prove more potent with a stronger fan (120x38mm Panaflo Ultra comes to mind), but the stock one will be plenty good, and very quiet, for decent overclocking (depending on your case airflow) up to about 3.6-3.8 (voltage dependent) while staying under the 62C max temp.

I've run the 1333 version of these Gskill modules amd while they wouldn't run tighter timings, they were quite stable, even though not on the QVL. I would suggest not going with Ripjaws X, particularly the 2x4 14900 model since those sticks refuse to run at all. The Corsair Vengeance C8 sticks might be good, but I have no experience with them (I've had no real issues out of Corsair in my board). The Dominator 2x4 kit is more expensive, but may be fine, too.
I would like to point out that I have noticed zero difference (outside of overclocking) between powering 2x4 or 4x2 setups of RAM on my Thuban. On the UD5 I've had the best luck with the current 4x2 Dominator kit, as I was able to get it to 7-8-7-22 1T timings, and gave the IMC a little more voltage. I was unable to succeed with any 2x4 kit. 4 GB, in any form, seems to be easy on these memory controllers. Adding more just increases the strain, hence some of the issues. V2.1 has the memory slots shifted around, which may mitigate the issues V2.0 has (again, I don't know, but would love to play with the boards). Given that other AM3 makers were already using the memory layout that V2.1 has, I'd say it's probably superior. Anyway, for the money, I'd go with what I linked to, and if in doubt, go with a 4x2 Eco kit. It'll at least be more stable than that mash-up you have.

Also, for what it's worth, I did have a mash-up of RAM (DDR1 266, or PC2100 to you who go by the other rating) years ago, and successfully overclocked them from their stock 133 Mhz, to 200. Both were Kingston Value Ram, Cl of 2.5. One used Samsung chips, and the other had Hynix. I ran that system for about a year with the RAM like that, and had no issues







. It was the best RAM OC I ever had, and I doubt I'll get that far again. Mostly I just try to keep tight timings and reasonable voltages.

I will say that Phenom2 chips will deal with RAM that runs on 1.9V (early DDR3), as I did that for about 6 months straight, and that chip is now powering a 2x4 kit. No issues.

Sorry for the ramblings; I need more coffee.


----------



## Blostorm

After multiple tests, I found out F3 requires less voltage than any of the other bios (I'm on 2.1 rev).

F6: wouldn't boot / would always crash and corrupted alot of my programs.
F5: Same thing, would always boot but crash. Also you have to go to F6 and back down else you will lose your Raids.
F4: Not bad, but would crash (esp memory / northbridge).

TL;DR = F3 > anything.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13551099*
> Yup. .1 volts beyond stock is about where I draw the line for 24/7 OCing, even with water. I'm not really worried about the Thuban, since the chip can reliably run at turbo mode voltage for 24/7, but it will put out a considerable amount of heat with all 6 cores in use, and I believe that is why AMD created a limit. Besides, 4.0Ghz seems to be a sweet spot for many Thubans.
> 
> I have to admit that your system specs are pretty solid. That heatsink will prove more potent with a stronger fan (120x38mm Panaflo Ultra comes to mind), but the stock one will be plenty good, and very quiet, for decent overclocking (depending on your case airflow) up to about 3.6-3.8 (voltage dependent) while staying under the 62C max temp.
> 
> I've run the 1333 version of these Gskill modules amd while they wouldn't run tighter timings, they were quite stable, even though not on the QVL. I would suggest not going with Ripjaws X, particularly the 2x4 14900 model since those sticks refuse to run at all. The Corsair Vengeance C8 sticks might be good, but I have no experience with them (I've had no real issues out of Corsair in my board). The Dominator 2x4 kit is more expensive, but may be fine, too.
> I would like to point out that I have noticed zero difference (outside of overclocking) between powering 2x4 or 4x2 setups of RAM on my Thuban. On the UD5 I've had the best luck with the current 4x2 Dominator kit, as I was able to get it to 7-8-7-22 1T timings, and gave the IMC a little more voltage. I was unable to succeed with any 2x4 kit. 4 GB, in any form, seems to be easy on these memory controllers. Adding more just increases the strain, hence some of the issues. V2.1 has the memory slots shifted around, which may mitigate the issues V2.0 has (again, I don't know, but would love to play with the boards). Given that other AM3 makers were already using the memory layout that V2.1 has, I'd say it's probably superior. Anyway, for the money, I'd go with what I linked to, and if in doubt, go with a 4x2 Eco kit. It'll at least be more stable than that mash-up you have.
> 
> Also, for what it's worth, I did have a mash-up of RAM (DDR1 266, or PC2100 to you who go by the other rating) years ago, and successfully overclocked them from their stock 133 Mhz, to 200. Both were Kingston Value Ram, Cl of 2.5. One used Samsung chips, and the other had Hynix. I ran that system for about a year with the RAM like that, and had no issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It was the best RAM OC I ever had, and I doubt I'll get that far again. Mostly I just try to keep tight timings and reasonable voltages.
> 
> I will say that Phenom2 chips will deal with RAM that runs on 1.9V (early DDR3), as I did that for about 6 months straight, and that chip is now powering a 2x4 kit. No issues.
> 
> Sorry for the ramblings; I need more coffee.


Well have another coffee then! I'd like to hear some more ramblings about this board and all of its ins/outs. Before we continue I'd like to get some of my personal bias's and opinions up in the air and out of the way so we can get on with picking a ram set. I dont like Corsair and I dont like 4 stick configurations.

A list of all of the 2x4gb kits on PCCG

And just to get this straight in my head, I wont be able to throw anything above 1333mhz in without having to tweak the bios?

So assuming that these are the only three on pccasegear that are 1333hmz and in a 2x4gb kit.

G.Skill F3-10600CL9D-8GBNT (2x4GB) DDR3
LISTED ON G.Skill qualified motherboard list

G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-10666CL7D-8GBXH (2x4GB) DDR3
NOT LISTED ON G.Skill qualified motherboard list Designed For 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ Processors

G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL (2x4GB) DDR3
NOT LISTED ON G.Skill qualified motherboard list Designed For 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ Processors

I really like the look of that red G.Skill kit and I like the timings on the blue G.Skill kit, but neither is listed on the qualified motherboard list, their also designed for the 2nd gen Intel core range.

Or I could just do what I did with my old system and buy a 1600mhz kit and downclock to 1333mhz


----------



## saint19

Guys, how can I return to F3 BIOS version? I currently use F4 but I want test the other to see which one is better.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I would suggest loading the firmware on a bootable USB stick, and flashing from there. This is how I've been changing my BIOS for some time (prior this this method it was a floppy).


----------



## Blitz6804

I use @BIOS with Windows 7 x64 SP1, and have used it with Windows 7 x64 Vanilla. No issues to report. Download the BIOS you want from the website and run the extractor. Then run @BIOS, and Make sure you check the boxes saying "Load CMOS default after BIOS update " and "Clear DMI data Pool" prior to clicking "Update BIOS from file." Select the newly-extracted BIOS and after a few minutes it will say that you need to reboot your PC; let it do so.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


I use @BIOS with Windows 7 x64 SP1, and have used it with Windows 7 x64 Vanilla. No issues to report. Download the BIOS you want from the website and run the extractor. Then run @BIOS, and Make sure you check the boxes saying "Load CMOS default after BIOS update " and "Clear DMI data Pool" prior to clicking "Update BIOS from file." Select the newly-extracted BIOS and after a few minutes it will say that you need to reboot your PC; let it do so.


Sounds easy. I want test all BIOS to check what gives me better results, so, lets say that now I'm with the F6 BIOS and the best was F3, Can flash from F6 to F3 as you say without problems?


----------



## Blostorm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Sounds easy. I want test all BIOS to check what gives me better results, so, lets say that now I'm with the F6 BIOS and the best was F3, Can flash from F6 to F3 as you say without problems?


Just use F3. I tested em all and F3 is the best.

Download on gigabyte website, extract to usb key, boot to bios and press f8 and update there.

Takes 1 minute.


----------



## Blitz6804

Unless you have a RAID, you can switch from any BIOS to any other without a problem. If you have a RAID, you may only use F1-F4 or F5/F6. Going from the former group to the latter or vice-versa will destroy the RAID array. Possibly unrecoverably.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blostorm*


Just use F3. I tested em all and F3 is the best.

Download on gigabyte website, extract to usb key, boot to bios and press f8 and update there.

Takes 1 minute.


I'll try it, i'm using F4 in my Rev. 2.0 for a 1090T at 3.8GHz and NB @3000MHz with 1.325V on both.


----------



## HiroPro

Fantastic thread on these motherboards!!! Way to go everyone for all the great contributions.

I'm just about to replace a GA-790XTA-UD4 that's been a royal PITA with the GA-890FXA-UD5 rev 3.1 Looking here I find that the older revs worked best with BIOS F3 and am curious if the rev 3.1 has a better BIOS as well as three releases to date for it.

Also I have Mushkin 996744 PC3-12800 8-8-8-24 1.65V in four modules at 2GB a piece. Can I use these and populate all 4 slots at 1.65v and run stable?

owhh and also the CPU is an X6 1100T

My biggest concern is memory compatibility so if anyone has experience with Mushkin 996744 with X6 1100T on 890FXA-UD5...

I've also heard of a lot of issues with LAN ports dropping... Somewhere I read that if you adjust the PCIE speed from Auto/100 to 100Mhz to 103Mhz that it should fix the issue and also provide faster/better PCIe graphics performance... strange a slight bumb in PCIe clock speed would have such a dramatic affect... anyone here also report changing PCIe from Auto/100 to 101-103 Mhz making a huge difference?


----------



## Blitz6804

I have good news and bad news for you HiroPro. The good news, you will not need to worry about the glitchy BIOSes we have had. The bad news: you are the first person with a Rev 3.1. That has BIOSes of FB, FC, and FD, which are entirely different from the F1-F6 of the Rev 2.0/2.1 boards.


----------



## HiroPro

Well I'm ordering from NCIX and people reported last week of April that they had received rev 3.1 I'm not sure if I'll end up with a rev 3.1 , 3 or 2.1

Regarding the PCIe bus speed from my prior post... I just tried 101 Mhz on my CRAPPY 790XTA-UD4 and to my amazement and SHOCK it's bloody stable now and my HDs on AHCI seem snappier and system is now for the FIRST TIME TOTALLY STABLE... what gives !!!

Owhh and it's running couple degrees cooler under load... and just "feels" snappier or something... really strange changing the PCIe bus to slightly over 100Mhz/auto would have such a profound affect.


----------



## HiroPro

Just look at all the BIOS issues and how it's related to 16bit thunking and the lack of people who know real mode 16bit thunking...

Now imagine EUFI bios with all it's complications... including DRIVERS !!!

It's gunna be a friggin nightmare with EUFI for the next couple years IMHO...

Owhh and have fun trying to run 32bit windows on a board with EUFI as 32bit Win7 doesn't support EUFI.

PS at least they don't need oldschoolers like me to 16bit thunk !!


----------



## saifbukhari

Folks anyone?. . ..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saifbukhari*


Hi Folks, I have the Ga 890FXA UD5, and I just wanted to confirm that will 2x4GB Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz ram sticks will work ? I mean if there are any user's who currently use the same. I am asking this because on Gigabytes website it shows "Support for DDR3 2000(OC)/1333/1066 MHz memory modules" where they dont mention 1600Mhz and also because I recently returned 2 pairs of Gskil Ripjaws 1600 Mhz Ram stick following a series of BSod's, and memtest errors. And got myself a pair of corsair xms3 1600 2x4gb modules, but I am very scared of opening the box as I dont want this to fail coz then again following an RMA would be very very difficult.

ANy help and advise in this direction will be greatly appreciated


----------



## saint19

Guys I need help on this one: http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/1021...tx-560-ti.html

Low performance is killing me


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saifbukhari*


Folks anyone?. . ..


Should work, just set in the BIOS the specs and test.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiroPro;13568421*
> My biggest concern is memory compatibility


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiroPro;13568421*
> concern is memory compatibility


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiroPro;13568421*
> memory compatibility


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiroPro;13568421*
> compatibility


I wish that motherboard manufacturers would support their motherboards better by actually updating QVL's, maybe in a perfect world... we can only dream


----------



## fidof650

Anyone know when Rev. 3.1 will hit NewEgg?

Approximately?

Best Guess?

I'm getting stir crazy because I'm ready to start my next build and want to use this board again but I'll be picking up an octodozer when it arrives so I want a compatible board.

Tap Tap Tap

I hate to wait!

~fidof650


----------



## CesarNYC

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Anyone know when Rev. 3.1 will hit NewEgg?

Approximately?

Best Guess?

I'm getting stir crazy because I'm ready to start my next build and want to use this board again but I'll be picking up an octodozer when it arrives so I want a compatible board.

Tap Tap Tap

I hate to wait!

~fidof650


not sure about new egg but I did read a review on Amazon from a guy that just RMAed the board he got till they send him a 3.1 board. It took him three tries but he finally got one that was 3.1. Amazon cross ships and I have had nothing but great experiences with RMA and Amazon. I am tempted to give it a shot myself.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CesarNYC;13600863*
> I am tempted to give it a shot myself.


That may be worth a shot... of course I may just wait for the 990fxa-UD5/UD7 to come out!!!!!

Check it out!!! Click the Pic for more info










~Fidof650


----------



## thezfunk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


That may be worth a shot... of course I may just wait for the 990fxa-UD5/UD7 to come out!!!!!

Check it out!!! Click the Pic for more info










~Fidof650


Exactly, I don't understand why at this point you would buy a 3.1 board. Just wait for the 900's.


----------



## Blitz6804

You can likely swap a 2.0 to a 3.1 without needing to reinstall Windows. Going from an 890FX to a 990FX MIGHT have problems. (But probably not.)


----------



## Shroomalistic

on the 890fxa-ud5, is it possible to boot from the usb 3.0 slots. Bios doesnt detect the drives for me when i plug them in.


----------



## ht_addict

When I have my 6850's installed in the PCI-E(16x slot 1) and PCI-E(8x Slot 3) GPU-Z reports the boards as running in 16x and 8x mode. I thought the 16x would convert to 8x?


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


When I have my 6850's installed in the PCI-E(16x slot 1) and PCI-E(8x Slot 3) GPU-Z reports the boards as running in 16x and 8x mode. I thought the 16x would convert to 8x?


It does, GPU-Z does that on alot of boards. Its nothing to worry about, saw a few vids a while ago and x4 to x16 really only adds a 2%? overall increase in FPS (dont quote me on that, working from crappy value ram here).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


That may be worth a shot... of course I may just wait for the 990fxa-UD5/UD7 to come out!!!!!

Check it out!!! Click the Pic for more info










~Fidof650


PS... Love the colours. I am glad they went with a black pcb, the blue was getting a little old (even though everything I own has some sort of blue led or finish). The orange adds a nice touch.


----------



## saint19

That Gigabyte 990FX looks pretty similar in NB and SB to the X58A-OC


----------



## nonamelab

MB is already on Gigabyte site : http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...px?pid=3880#ov


----------



## saint19

With CPU support list:

http://www.gigabyte.com/support-down....aspx?pid=3880

But doesn't say anything about SLI support on specs and some other things that aren't the same in the overview.


----------



## fidof650

Hi Guys,
Please feel free to add to the discusion regarding the GA-990FXA-UD7 in its dedicated thread here:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1023100-unofficial-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud5-ud7.html

I wouldn't want people to miss out on your collective insights in the dedicated thread

You're making great observations

~fidof650


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;13625157*
> Hi Guys,
> Please feel free to add to the discusion regarding the GA-990FXA-UD7 in its dedicated thread here:
> http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1023100-unofficial-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud5-ud7.html
> 
> I wouldn't want people to miss out on your collective insights in the dedicated thread
> 
> You're making great observations
> 
> ~fidof650


I did and you ignored my post /stickstongueout

DX tapa tapa


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;13625232*
> I did and you ignored my post /stickstongueout
> 
> DX tapa tapa


Didn't ignore it... just didn't have the answer for you yet









~fidof650


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;13625312*
> Didn't ignore it... just didn't have the answer for you yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~fidof650


Its been driving me nuts, it just looks like a big sata port but even their product info page doesnt really make mention of what it is, atleast nothing poped out at me.


----------



## butterfinger

I'm planning to buy a G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL. Do we have someone with that memory and my mobo ?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *butterfinger;13626965*
> I'm planning to buy a G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL. Do we have someone with that memory and my mobo ?


I have tried RipjawsX 14900 and the board refuses to run reliably with it. One moment it will be fine, and the next it will be BSOD. Turn it back on, it might freeze during POST, and the next time not. Completely random lockups, regardless of what speed I ran it at, or voltage. I even fed the RAM an extra .1 volts (which is safe and not going to void any warranties according to Gskill). I tried the RAM in a different motherboard, and it ran very well, fast, overclocked, and tightened up timings, all without touching the voltage.

Older 1333 Gskill Ripjaws (non X) CL9 in 2x4 form has worked well with the board, although the RAM set I had did not OC or tighten the timings in the least.

I've had the most success from the 4x2GB Corsair kit listed in my signature. This board has been iffy for me with 4GB modules, especially if overclocking. I don't recommend the Ripjaws X on this.


----------



## jjceo

I'm running 16 GIG of G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL and they run fine. I even have them slighly over clocked but I could never under time the latency.

They are the same price on Newegg. I have then running 1620 MHz or 1640 (?) but I had to up the voltage. My windows experience is 7.7, 7.7, 7.8, and 7.8. The computer is stable and fast.


----------



## butterfinger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13633769*
> I'm running 16 GIG of G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL and they run fine. I even have them slighly over clocked but I could never under time the latency.
> 
> They are the same price on Newegg. I have then running 1620 MHz or 1640 (?) but I had to up the voltage. My windows experience is 7.7, 7.7, 7.8, and 7.8. The computer is stable and fast.


Glad to see that you have no issue with it. Thx for the info.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *butterfinger;13634716*
> Glad to see that you have no issue with it. Thx for the info.


Notice a lack of X in the name. It was regular rip jaws, which worked alright for me, just no hot-rodding of any sort. Ripjaws X is a different story.

In other news, my girlfriend, being the ever conscious geek, notified me of a BIOS update for her 890GPA-UD3H (a 890GX board). As it turns out, Gigabyte IS in fact going to support AM3+ on an AM3 board, as that board currently has a beta BIOS to support AM3+, as well as removing network booting and core unlocking.

Frankly, this is B.S. in the purest sense. GB is supporting the lower board, and leaving the high end users to fend for themselves with this new update in my opinion, and given their statement regarding AM3+ to us.

I also finally looked at the differences in BIOS. it seems 2.0 and 2.1 got another raw deal; no 3TB HDD support, unless it's otherwise noted in an earlier update.

To sum this up, I have never seen a motherboard company not support their top tier less than the more mainstream offering. I believe it also shows that Revision 2.x UD5 boards are probably flawed in some manner GB deems not worth fixing, hence the (several) revisions. As it stands, I am very unlikely to keep this board, as it has no future.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Notice a lack of X in the name. It was regular rip jaws, which worked alright for me, just no hot-rodding of any sort. Ripjaws X is a different story.

In other news, my girlfriend, being the ever conscious geek, notified me of a BIOS update for her 890GPA-UD3H (a 890GX board). As it turns out, Gigabyte IS in fact going to support AM3+ on an AM3 board, as that board currently has a beta BIOS to support AM3+, as well as removing network booting and core unlocking.

Frankly, this is B.S. in the purest sense. GB is supporting the lower board, and *leaving the high end users to fend for themselves with this new update in my opinion, and given their statement regarding AM3+ to us.*

I also finally looked at the differences in BIOS. it seems 2.0 and 2.1 got another raw deal; no 3TB HDD support, unless it's otherwise noted in an earlier update.

To sum this up, I have never seen a motherboard company not support their top tier less than the more mainstream offering. I believe it also shows that Revision 2.x UD5 boards are probably flawed in some manner GB deems not worth fixing, hence the (several) revisions. As it stands, I am very unlikely to keep this board, as it has no future.


I think that is because many of the current high end AM3 owners will change that current mobo for a new 9xx chipset when this comes out.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

It could be, and I for one would gladly upgrade to the new chipset. However, I still think it's a very underhanded move for Gigabyte, given their primary competitors are touting AM3+ support on most of their 890 chipset based boards. It's more food for thought, but given my experience with this board, it will be a very long time before I consider Gigabyte again. Granted, my opinion is a drop in the bucket, but I will at least follow my convictions.


----------



## saint19

Agree with you, I'll change too to a new 990FX mobo (UD5 or UD7 depends of price), but I think that Gigabyte should given us the option to support BD in the current high end mobos, we paid a lot of money when this mobos was released


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Exactly. $170 for a single-ended update really isn't a great idea, especially when I bought a $140 motherboard that does support the new CPU.


----------



## hesho

the way i see it.... if every mobo company ends up releasing am3+ bios for the 800 series chipset while gigabyte releases a new revision to support it would imply either 3 things..

a) they are milking us since alot of enthusiasts will upgrade regardless

b) they released mobos that was lacking compared to others by taking shortcuts or something which causes it not to support am3+

c) a mix of both.

personally, i'm never going to buy gigabyte product again if this happens. To me, it seems really strange how other vendors can release a bios update but gigabyte can't...


----------



## saint19

I bought the UD5 for $180







, that's the cost of technology but other thing is that manufacturer doesn't support at least two generations.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;13643165*
> the way i see it.... if every mobo company ends up releasing am3+ bios for the 800 series chipset while gigabyte releases a new revision to support it would imply either 3 things..
> 
> a) they are milking us since alot of enthusiasts will upgrade regardless
> 
> b) they released mobos that was lacking compared to others by taking shortcuts or something which causes it not to support am3+
> 
> c) a mix of both.
> 
> personally, i'm never going to buy gigabyte product again if this happens. To me, it seems really strange how other vendors can release a bios update but gigabyte can't...


I think the board is deficient, GB doesn't want to admit it because of bad PR possibilities, and they would rather get it right. The problem; I know of 5 versions of this board, one of which never even hit the market before it was pulled. Bad designs, and I think they're banking on people upgrading again shortly after. As it stands, this board made me want to upgrade.

I'm going to go out on a limb and saying this: despite the VRM issues I had with my MSI, and their utter lack of caring, as well as being on my hate list, the 790fx-GD70 was a better board, and took whatever I threw at it, other than the Thuban (bad VRM heatsink seating). It did not have odd hard drive detection issues, nor memory overclocking problems. It had better fan control, be profile options, more options for controlling the RAM, more sensitive voltage adjustments, and ran cooler. Had the heatsink made proper contact, I would likely be using it still. It also could OC the RAM much more than the UD5.

I was looking at new 990FX boards today, and the new GB is eh. I much prefer the Asus Sabertooth design, with better heatsinking, and overall better layout (for my uses). The MSI wasn't bad, either, but I refuse to buy anything from them.


----------



## jjceo

I agree with your comment regarding Gigabyte and the AM3+ chips on our motherboards. The UD5 is a good board but not great. It is my understanding that there is a physical difference between an AM3 and an AM3+ chip and socket. The AM3+ socket brings out other control functions and better temperature monitoring. The AM3+ could work with the proper BIOS in the AM3 socket but the enhanced features will not.

I have purchased all the hardware for a new monster computer except for a motherboard and CPU. I am getting frustrated with all the discussions on Bulldozer and the 8 core. Now all the discussions are about coming out in the retail version late in the year. I wish AMD would take the bull by the horns and make some announcements for their loyal users. (Even small press releases would be helpful and grow the Bulldozer story in the right direction. AMD would get tons of free press and spin the story the way they want it done.) I am about to get frustrated and buy an ASUS motherboard and an INTEL chip and be done with it. AMD is letting the rumor mill control its marketing and by doing so making INTEL look stronger. Every delay leads INTEL closer to the release of the IVY Bridge chips and the new 6 and 8 core generation.

I can build a great computer now and in 6 moths buy a new chip and motherboard to upgrade it again. This is the problem with geeks, we are never happy and the technology is improving so fast that our greedy little geek hearts want the best.


----------



## Blitz6804

I agree with hesho. Gigabyte decides to leave me high and dry, I am going to a new company when I upgrade. Which, to be honest, will likely be LGA 2011. The only reason why I got AM3 in the first place (instead of LGA 1366) is because AM3 was supposed to be forward-compatible with the next chip out. LGA 1366 was not.


----------



## hesho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13644262*
> The only reason why I got AM3 in the first place (instead of LGA 1366) is because AM3 was supposed to be forward-compatible with the next chip out. LGA 1366 was not.


THISSSSSSS

this is also y i got am3. I built my current system last year because i was expecting it to be able to upgrade to BD. It was the main reason why i jumped onto amd and it was between a gigabyte mobo or asus mobo. The gigabyte mobo was 60 bucks cheaper at the time i figure the gigabyte would be worth it since their mobos were solid. Kinda funny how i'm regretting it now :/


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13644262*
> I agree with hesho. Gigabyte decides to leave me high and dry, I am going to a new company when I upgrade. Which, to be honest, will likely be LGA 2011. The only reason why I got AM3 in the first place (instead of LGA 1366) is because AM3 was supposed to be forward-compatible with the next chip out. LGA 1366 was not.


High possibility that I do the same.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I bought into the whole forwards compatibility advert as well. Technically it still is, but not with this board. I'd almost bought the competing Asus board. I'm still waiting to see how Bulldozer is, although there is no guarantee I'll even go that route now. I'll see what the future holds, and promptly rid myself of this board.

To quote a very famous line (and pointed directly at Gigabyte): "You have failed me for the last time."

-Sadly it was the first time, too.


----------



## Blostorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13644262*
> I agree with hesho. Gigabyte decides to leave me high and dry, I am going to a new company when I upgrade. Which, to be honest, will likely be LGA 2011. The only reason why I got AM3 in the first place (instead of LGA 1366) is because AM3 was supposed to be forward-compatible with the next chip out. LGA 1366 was not.


I'm in the exact same boat. If BD beats the i7 2600k, I might get BD and switch to LGA 2011. I always used AMD, never tried Intel. Their SB was really really good so I'm expecting the same out of BD..If not, IB will get my money.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *butterfinger;13626965*
> I'm planning to buy a G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL. Do we have someone with that memory and my mobo ?


I'm successfully running the G.Skill RipjawX F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL kit (4x4gb) on the 890FXA-UD5 v2.1 with the F6 bios.

Why does G.Skill say that they are designed specifically for 2nd generation Intel core processors? With no mention of any AMD chipset at all, leading the normal buyer to assume that they only work with Intel.
and why is the 890 chipset (or the 890FXA-UD5) not on the specifications list?

Those are two separate questions





I took these photo's while it was running memtest @ auto settings but their now running recommended settings (9-9-9-24) perfectly and have passed memtest several times.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex;13653139*
> I'm successfully running the G.Skill RipjawX F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL kit (4x4gb) on the 890FXA-UD5 v2.1 with the F6 bios.
> 
> Why does G.Skill say that they are designed specifically for 2nd generation Intel core processors? With no mention of any AMD chipset at all, leading the normal buyer to assume that they only work with Intel.
> and why is the 890 chipset (or the 890FXA-UD5) not on the specifications list?
> 
> Those are two separate questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took these photo's while it was running memtest @ auto settings but their now running recommended settings (9-9-9-24) perfectly and have passed memtest several times.


I tried that with my V2.0, and it was no dice. Might boot once and never again with the RAM.

You might want to ask Gskill why they brand them that way, although they will say it'll run just fine on an AMD system, but would require more voltage. They suggested .1 volts to me.


----------



## hesho

it's all marketing. Intel systems are much more popular then amd systems so it's not that surprising. Ram will generally work with all vendors though they are exceptions.

In this case, i do not blame the mobo makers because i don't expect them to test every single new kit that is released every week.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13653953*
> I tried that with my V2.0, and it was no dice. Might boot once and never again with the RAM.
> 
> You might want to ask Gskill why they brand them that way, although they will say it'll run just fine on an AMD system, but would require more voltage. They suggested .1 volts to me.


Already have but with no reply yet. My pc's been running for the last 18 hours quite well with this ram now and its been reset several times, I've installed software, run games, movies and music. At the moment I've almost finished re-installing Windows7 64bit, I felt like giving the ram a fresh OS just because this should be my last hardware install in this system for a while.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;13654479*
> it's all marketing. Intel systems are much more popular then amd systems so it's not that surprising. Ram will generally work with all vendors though they are exceptions.
> 
> In this case, i do not blame the mobo makers because i don't expect them to test every single new kit that is released every week.


I'm not surprised because this is exactly what I suspected.

Well, I do blame motherboard manufacturers because to be blunt, I've seen allot of piss poor QVL list's around that are never updated after the board is released yet is still on sale for months, sometimes even a year or more after.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Yeah, I noticed a response about the Thuban still having a weak IMC. Bull. I'm smoothly running DDR3 1666 on a 4x2 setup, 7-8-7-22 1T timings, with mild voltage bump that even a 2x4 setup required to run.

I think they're just trying to corner a market that's become more assembly friendly. Does anyone remember having to manually set IRQs to avoid conflicts? Heck, what about when jumperless came out?

RAM will run on whatever. Some boards prefer a specific type of chip. I've had the best times with a 4x2 setup on my specific UD5 boards. The story is entirely different on an MSI 790FX-GD70, GB 890GPA-UD3H, or Asus M4A89GTD Pro. Each of those boards will lean either way on RAM, with the MSI and Asus being more tolerant. Chalk that one up to PCB design, and all the things that it causes (EMI/RFI, heat, resistance, latency issues, etc.).

I had to contact Gskill about the RipjawsX set of RAM I was playing with. It was the first Gskill set I couldn't run (out of 4 sets). Yet it ran flawlessly in another board. Definitely not the IMC at that point. But to get Intel biased (possibly set to Intel-favorable timings) to run on an AMD system may require a few extra tweaks: the first of which is adding voltage. After that you can keep playing with the RAM to see how it runs. Advance timings may need to be adjusted even. One thing I think people don't realize is that each computer is slightly different than the next, just as any car engine is. Nothing is identical, so what may work in one system may not in another, even if the same model parts are used. That's part of the fun of building and overclocking, though. The other side is being frustrated by inferior hardware, or lack of support from a company (I'm pointing the finger straight at Gigabyte on this).

EDIT: I contacted GB a while ago about the RAM issue I had, and mentioned it being on their QVL. They said that does not mean it will work with the board, is no guarantee, but only for reference. Really. They kept blaming my RAM when the southbridge chipset on my board kept freezing it up at any hard drive detection, or heavy use, throwing hard drive based error codes, and corrupting some data. New RAM did not fix the issue, although a new board did. They also don't test for southbridge issues, only CPU/RAM/power stability in their RMA processing (as a tech told me over the phone). I sent the board back, suggesting they try a southbridge test, and they replaced the board (I also complained a LOT).


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13655626*
> I had to contact Gskill about the RipjawsX set of RAM I was playing with...


I cannot comment on your experience because your board is V2.0 and mine is V2.1. You may also be using a different bios version.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13655626*
> I think they're just trying to corner a market that's become more assembly friendly.


I get the distinct feeling that Intel is paying off manufacturers to be less AMD friendly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13655626*
> I think they're just trying to corner a market that's become more assembly friendly. Does anyone remember having to manually set IRQs to avoid conflicts? Heck, what about when jumperless came out?


The past is the past, the present is now, it can be interesting to reflect on but I cant see what it has to do with current hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13655626*
> RAM will run on whatever. Some boards prefer a specific type of chip... Each of those boards will lean either way on RAM, with the MSI and Asus being more tolerant. Chalk that one up to PCB design, and all the things that it causes (EMI/RFI, heat, resistance, latency issues, etc.).


This is the exact reason why I purchase Gigabyte boards, I find Asus to be of noticeably inferior quality and allot of my experiences with Asus have been either hit or miss. But each to their own, read my sig and that will make allot more sense.
As for support, both are questionable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13655626*
> I contacted GB a while ago about the RAM issue I had, and mentioned it being on their QVL. They said that does not mean it will work with the board, is no guarantee, but only for reference. Really. They kept blaming my RAM when the southbridge chipset on my board kept freezing it up at any hard drive detection, or heavy use, throwing hard drive based error codes, and corrupting some data. New RAM did not fix the issue, although a new board did. They also don't test for southbridge issues, only CPU/RAM/power stability in their RMA processing (as a tech told me over the phone). I sent the board back, suggesting they try a southbridge test, and they replaced the board (I also complained a LOT).


When I call for RMA's and returns, I start by sternly asking for that persons name and/or customer support number to enforce a sense of responsibility.
You cannot let a sales representative walk all over you. Which is exactly what they will do (and are sometimes trained to do) if you let them. You also have to keep in mind that they are human and do need to be treated with respect. But you also have to learn to realize when you are wrong, which makes dealing with these people very hard.
I once waited patiently and refused to leave a Umart store in Milton Brisbane for 6 hours to get them to swap a motherboard after taking it home and finding that it had bent pins and fingerprints on it with questionably new packaging. However if I'd have thrown a tantrum, they never would have replaced it. Consumer laws enforced by your government are there for a reason, to help prevent these people from walking allover you after you've made your purchase. Also, have a read of my sig... again.

EDIT: I just noticed that my sig didnt save, well here's a copy of it








Your purchase is the *highest honor* any single product can receive. End-users looking for the ultimate upgrade should consider their own overclocking, latency, value desires and stability before placing that award in the hands of their favorite vendor.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex;13660564*
> I cannot comment on your experience because your board is V2.0 and mine is V2.1. You may also be using a different bios version.
> 
> I get the distinct feeling that Intel is paying off manufacturers to be less AMD friendly.
> 
> The past is the past, the present is now, it can be interesting to reflect on but I cant see what it has to do with current hardware.
> 
> This is the exact reason why I purchase Gigabyte boards, I find Asus to be of noticeably inferior quality and allot of my experiences with Asus have been either hit or miss. But each to their own, read my sig and that will make allot more sense.
> As for support, both are questionable.
> 
> When I call for RMA's and returns, I start by sternly asking for that persons name and/or customer support number to enforce a sense of responsibility.
> You cannot let a sales representative walk all over you. Which is exactly what they will do (and are sometimes trained to do) if you let them. You also have to keep in mind that they are human and do need to be treated with respect. But you also have to learn to realize when you are wrong, which makes dealing with these people very hard.
> I once waited patiently and refused to leave a Umart store in Milton Brisbane for 6 hours to get them to swap a motherboard after taking it home and finding that it had bent pins and fingerprints on it with questionably new packaging. However if I'd have thrown a tantrum, they never would have replaced it. Consumer laws enforced by your government are there for a reason, to help prevent these people from walking allover you after you've made your purchase. Also, have a read of my sig... again.
> 
> EDIT: I just noticed that my sig didnt save, well here's a copy of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your purchase is the *highest honor* any single product can receive. End-users looking for the ultimate upgrade should consider their own overclocking, latency, value desires and stability before placing that award in the hands of their favorite vendor.


Why I mention the past is this: when I began working with computers, it wasn't all spelled out. The user manuals were thicker, and online forums weren't as robust. I had to figure out things on my own. I have noticed that people lean much more heavily on forums these days, which can also have plenty of misinformation. Parts go together more easily now than before, and the "basic" functions of the hardware are automated more. So people may not realize that "Intel" RAM really is just a marketing ploy to sway them, since they can't find any "AMD" RAM, or very little of it. The market is playing on people's ignorance....which people weren't quite so ignorant years ago. The ones who were bought pre-built systems, or had people like myself build a custom rig. I have noticed the same trending in automotives...a whole lot less individual thought and experimentation.

For motherboard brands, I have had the pleasure, and sometimes displeasure of using various brands, most of the brands. I have not used DFI, but have set them up. The two most reliable brands I've noticed were Abit and Asus. Epox was quirky with a few settings, but ran well. ECS...crapshoot. FIC was an OEM nightmare due to inferior build quality (and sharing R&D costs with Epox). However, FIC's RMA policy was superb. MSI was fine. I'd set up several Gigabyte based systems in the past, and they were fine. Almost all of my friends use Gigabyte. My personal experience with them has been less than stellar. This UD5 is supported less than the UD3, much to my chagrin.

I was firm with Gigabyte during the RMA process, specifically detailing the chain of events. They had "updated" my board with the wrong BIOS as well. They claimed I had F1 on it when it was sent in with F3. They sent it back with F2 loaded. Currently I run F6, which has given me the most options and stability I was wanting, short of the half multipliers and better voltage control when turbo mode is enabled. The latter issue is a problem across all BIOS revisions of V2.0. I made headway in my RMA ventures once I finally contacted one of the tech support guys who was part of testing. He specifically told me what tests they performed. The problem was customer service never documented my actual issue properly, which was southbridge related. The tech did not argue with me. He listened, documented, and a new board was sent out, although that one took some time. Gigabyte never communicated once they had received the board. About a month later I called them and asked where it was. They weren't sure.

I have yet to deal with Asus' customer service, as I've never had a board give me a problem.

Also, I like your signature quote; if more people lived by that statement, we would likely have smarter builds, better overclocks (in general), and less questions.

Computers may assemble like a set of legos, but they are far more complicated. Once the general populace realizes this, and rids themselves of whatever ego is involved, we'll have better times methinks.

I'll shut up now ;P


----------



## -X3-

Heys guys, is there a functional connection between NB temp and actual CPU temp? I mean, if the CPU temp increases, so NB temp will also increase?


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13662949*
> Why I mention the past is this: when I began working with computers, it wasn't all spelled out. The user manuals were thicker, and online forums weren't as robust. I had to figure out things on my own. I have noticed that people lean much more heavily on forums these days, which can also have plenty of misinformation. Parts go together more easily now than before, and the "basic" functions of the hardware are automated more. So people may not realize that "Intel" RAM really is just a marketing ploy to sway them, since they can't find any "AMD" RAM, or very little of it. The market is playing on people's ignorance....


I see your point and agree with it now but what you've pointed out just pisses me off. I'm not sure about people being less ignorant years ago, just more money conscience and thus willing to do the proper research first. The GFC has been a big wake up call for allot of people and if it wasn't then the world really is getting more and more ignorant. I no longer make many big purchases at all from Australia unless I'm worried about the warranty or the way that company treats its employees/customers. The pricing impact of the GFC did not hit Australia and thus we are paying inflated and false prices. To me I see purchasing from Australian stores as simply playing into the hands of the greedy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13662949*
> For motherboard brands, I have had the pleasure, and sometimes displeasure of using various brands, most of the brands


There's not enough people out there like you willing to take a risk on un-trusted brands. Which plays into the anti-competitive behavior of their greedy business tactics.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13662949*
> I was firm with Gigabyte during the RMA process


Again, there are not enough people out there like you. If you don't RMA a product, their sales figures look better but under false pretenses. Then the next product either has the same flaws as the previous product, or the next product with the faults fixed is released with an inflated price and marketed as the next step in their technological evolution.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13662949*
> Computers may assemble like a set of legos, but they are far more complicated. Once the general populace realizes this, and rids themselves of whatever ego is involved, we'll have better times methinks.


Of course! I've been saying this to backyard pc builders for years. If you don't do your research, you run the risk of simply burning money by happily handing it to these greedy companies.
The catch is, these companies have the ability to pay off reviewers or they simply outright own them. Which makes researching allot harder than it should be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13662949*
> I'll shut up now ;P


Please don't! I like where this conversation is taking us- to the truth.
I'm sick to my stomach of this computer culture of the greedy leading the blind.

However... Money isn't everything and most of the time I am willing to pay a little (not allot) more for a better product. The Asus ROG boards are the first example of this to come to mind however I am unwilling to pay DOUBLE the amount for a minor difference + gimmick's because doing so just encourages Asus's greedy behavior.


----------



## nonamelab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;13654479*
> it's all marketing. Intel systems are much more popular then amd systems so it's not that surprising. Ram will generally work with all vendors though they are exceptions.
> 
> In this case, i do not blame the mobo makers because i don't expect them to test every single new kit that is released every week.


This is why Intel systems are more popular : they have been offering money to computer makers and retailers to sell its products and not sell amd products.

Intel lost the lawsuit with European Commission and had to pay 1.45 billion $ and they settle with AMD for 1.25 billion $ so they don't lose that lawsuit also.

Those are small money to be paid for Intel since it made tens of billions $ by manipulating the market to make sure the more advanced cpus from amd don't sell.


----------



## gaming96

GA-890FXA-UD7 Motherboard Review I Made:

GA-890FXA-UD7:

  
 



  



 
 Gaming96.


----------



## Lindyrig

Hello, looking for some knowledge. Wondering if anyone has used G-Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL7Q-8GBRM on a 890FX UD5 with stock timings of 7-8-7-24 @ 1.6v. I've tried to do some research but only found guys running 6 Core Phenoms. I am using a 970 BE. Wondering if its in my best interest to set them at 7-7-7-24 in quad channel setup. Any info for the newb would be helpful. Thanks!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

You may want to try contacting Gskill, and going on their forums for help; they were very helpful for me in troubleshooting the Ripjaws-X I was trying out.

UPDATE from me:

I sold off the UD5 and my tri-core, and am currently using the M4A89GTD Pro with the 1090T. I'll be waiting on Bulldozer, and watching for price drops of processors. Looking at SandyBridge benchmarks leads me to believe it is not quite a worthy upgrade over the Thuban, given the price. My final thoughts on the board: I love the solid voltage control it has, and all the SATA ports as well as expansion slots. That's about it. The rest is just average to me: and most of you know of my contempt for Gigabyte's sloughing off of the UD5 in terms of BIOS updates or AM3+ support, which I think makes for a somewhat crippled board. I'll still frequent this page, and if any of you want to chat regarding the board, or pretty much what have you, please feel free.

Thanks for the tips, tricks, and otherwise commiseration about this board. It's been fun, and I hope to see some of you guys in other clubs. I only regret my Dremel breaking, which prevented me from building a proper air-based heatsink for this board...perhaps in the future.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13699276*
> You may want to try contacting Gskill, and going on their forums for help; they were very helpful for me in troubleshooting the Ripjaws-X I was trying out.
> 
> UPDATE from me:
> 
> I sold off the UD5 and my tri-core, and am currently using the M4A89GTD Pro with the 1090T. I'll be waiting on Bulldozer, and watching for price drops of processors. Looking at SandyBridge benchmarks leads me to believe it is not quite a worthy upgrade over the Thuban, given the price. My final thoughts on the board: I love the solid voltage control it has, and all the SATA ports as well as expansion slots. That's about it. The rest is just average to me: and most of you know of my contempt for Gigabyte's sloughing off of the UD5 in terms of BIOS updates or AM3+ support, which I think makes for a somewhat crippled board. I'll still frequent this page, and if any of you want to chat regarding the board, or pretty much what have you, please feel free.
> 
> Thanks for the tips, tricks, and otherwise commiseration about this board. It's been fun, and I hope to see some of you guys in other clubs. I only regret my Dremel breaking, which prevented me from building a proper air-based heatsink for this board...perhaps in the future.


Thinking in do the same, maybe SB rig or ASUS mobos are better now. See you around.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lindyrig*


Hello, looking for some knowledge. Wondering if anyone has used G-Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL7Q-8GBRM on a 890FX UD5 with stock timings of 7-8-7-24 @ 1.6v. I've tried to do some research but only found guys running 6 Core Phenoms. I am using a 970 BE. Wondering if its in my best interest to set them at 7-7-7-24 in quad channel setup. Any info for the newb would be helpful. Thanks!



Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


You may want to try contacting Gskill, and going on their forums for help; they were very helpful for me in troubleshooting the Ripjaws-X I was trying out.


This is a link to the thread I started on the gskill forums last week asking for the perfect 2x4gb or 4x4gb kit to purchase for our boards.

http://www.gskill.us/forum/showthrea...2026#post42026

But so you don't have to trawl through that, here's a simple summary.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GSKILL TECH*

Based on what has been said so far, this is probably the kit you want:

F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL

or F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

Both should work well for your system.

Thank you
GSKILL TECH



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GSKILL TECH*

A four stick kit guarantees that they can work together in the same computer, whereas a two stick kit only guarantees two sticks to work together. If you only need 8GB installed at a time, then two 8GB kits is fine. It is like having a back up set, and you save a couple dollars over the 16GB kit.

The memory is designed for Intel, but it will work just fine for your motherboard.

Actually, I just checked, 8GB and 16GB is same price, so just get the 4 stick kit.









Thank you
GSKILL TECH


Hope it helps to answer your question.


----------



## Lindyrig

Awesome guys thank you.


----------



## jjceo

I got all of my parts for the next build for the FX-8150P 8 core. My Asus Crosshair V Formula 990FX is on the way and I will install an AMD 1100T CPU and remove it when the Bulldozer is available. Even with the 1100T it will be a great build but I can't wait for the new chip so I will put together the system now.


----------



## BentZero

Hey guys. Been lurking awhile and finally starting my first build. I want to get a UD5 mobo, but want to be sure that it can support Bulldozer in the future. Do I have to get a rev 3.1 board or can I get the current board and just update the bios? Look forward to my first build. Thanks for any help in advance.


----------



## Lindyrig

So finally got my rig setup and now it wont boot. It seems there is a common problem with this board in where it wont recognize the optical drive so i cant boot from a disc. Anyone know where I should start?

I started by re-seating RAM. Making sure all devices had power. Did Mem test 100% zero errors. Made sure the disc wasn't bad. It booted fine on my other machine.

EDIT: Did some basic troubleshooting. Got no where.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BentZero;13792834*
> Hey guys. Been lurking awhile and finally starting my first build. I want to get a UD5 mobo, but want to be sure that it can support Bulldozer in the future. Do I have to get a rev 3.1 board or can I get the current board and just update the bios? Look forward to my first build. Thanks for any help in advance.


To my knowledge the older Gigabyte motherboards do not offer a BIOS to use Bulldozer. The 3.1 board has the proper socket (black in color) for the Bulldozer series. Please remember while some brands of boards do have BIOS updates that let you use Bulldozer ( Not Gigabyte yet) the old socket has a couple of missing pins for the new Bulldozer chip. Not having those pins connected means you will lose improved temperature monitoring and accuracy and also the new voltage control features in the Bulldozer socket.

I would go for the new socket and make sure that I was fully campatible. In addition the newer boards offer the 990FX chipset with is much more powerful in the area of graphics and sata port speeds.

Have fun with your new build.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13793201*
> So finally got my rig setup and now it wont boot. It seems there is a common problem with this board in where it wont recognize the optical drive so i cant boot from a disc. Anyone know where I should start?
> 
> I started by re-seating RAM. Making sure all devices had power. Did Mem test 100% zero errors. Made sure the disc wasn't bad. It booted fine on my other machine.
> 
> EDIT: Did some basic troubleshooting. Got no where.


Have you gone into the BIOS and set the optical drive as the primary boot device. The BIOS is set for HDD boot first so make it the secondary boot device and the DVD drive the primary. After you install Windows you can set the HDD back to the primary and get a faster startup if you want.

Good luck.


----------



## jdfreire

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1857910


----------



## Blitz6804

Lindyrig: What version of the BIOS is there? I found with F5, my system would not boot to an optical drive.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13795828*
> Please remember while some brands of boards do have BIOS updates that let you use Bulldozer ( Not Gigabyte yet)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13795828*
> BIOS updates that let you use Bulldozer ( Not Gigabyte yet)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13795828*
> let you use Bulldozer ( Not Gigabyte yet)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13795828*
> Bulldozer ( Not Gigabyte yet)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13795828*
> Not Gigabyte


----------



## Lindyrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13796555*
> Lindyrig: What version of the BIOS is there? I found with F5, my system would not boot to an optical drive.


F5. How did you resolve the problem?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13795846*
> Have you gone into the BIOS and set the optical drive as the primary boot device. The BIOS is set for HDD boot first so make it the secondary boot device and the DVD drive the primary. After you install Windows you can set the HDD back to the primary and get a faster startup if you want.
> 
> Good luck.


Yes I did. I actually went and unplugged all devices and made it force boot from optical. The system said Loading Operating System... hung for a while then said failed to load please insert disc. This entire time the drive doesn't even spin up. It will some times flash LED on first try from initial boot but its not reading a disc its just flashing the LED. I tried setting it to boot as IDE in all ports and configs but nothing has worked yet.


----------



## jjceo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*












Thanks for the wonderful addition to the data. Your input really clarified the answer to the question. If you read the post and his question I was replying to his idea to use and old AM3 socket board for a Bulldozer chip. Gigabyte does not have a BIOS for this. You have to buy a board with an AM3+ socket and you then will get a bios capable of using a Bulldozer Chip.

Taking one sentence that you believe is confusing and reposting it multiple times and deleting words is childish. You are a perfect example of why the internet sometimes sucks to get support from because your post adds no value but to cause controversy and waste space in the server. Grow up!


----------



## decompose

hello fellas..Im new to overclocking.
my pc is freezing everynow and then. its not the temps, im gona set everything to normal 2.8mhz vcore 1.32 and my ram which i think might be the problem. its listed as 9-9-9-27 at 1.7-1.9 volts and i have 8 gigs at 1.71 volts 1066mhz--KHX1600C9D3K2/8G. I have f6 bios. now i had overclocked it at 3.7 mhz 1.4 vcore ,1440mhz ram 1.71volts. since december its has worked well until now it just locks up.any ideas. why does bios show 1.71 volts in red.right now it seems to work well but will lock up soon..forgive my bad writing


----------



## Blitz6804

Lindyrig: I flashed back to F3, but some prefer F4.


----------



## Lindyrig

It may just be toast. It refuses to even boot from a HDD with Windows pre installed. It refuses to boot from a live CD. It just keeps saying...

Loading Operating System ...
DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER.

I'm going crazy. All the "solutions" to this problem I've read did not work. It may be easiest to just go back to ASUS


----------



## BentZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13795828*
> To my knowledge the older Gigabyte motherboards do not offer a BIOS to use Bulldozer. The 3.1 board has the proper socket (black in color) for the Bulldozer series. Please remember while some brands of boards do have BIOS updates that let you use Bulldozer ( Not Gigabyte yet) the old socket has a couple of missing pins for the new Bulldozer chip. Not having those pins connected means you will lose improved temperature monitoring and accuracy and also the new voltage control features in the Bulldozer socket.
> 
> I would go for the new socket and make sure that I was fully campatible. In addition the newer boards offer the 990FX chipset with is much more powerful in the area of graphics and sata port speeds.
> 
> Have fun with your new build.


Thanks for the info man. Now I guess I need to decide if Bulldozer and 990 is important to me. I won't actually be starting my build until mid-July for various reasons. Perphaps they'll be available by then and I can make up my mind at that time.


----------



## Lindyrig

Well I was completely wrong. My bios is FB.. My eyes are terribad. Anyway its a rev3.1 board AM3+. I can flash up to FD. But no mention of fixes on that BIOS version.


----------



## pali

Crap cow! Im gonna miss your expertise with these boards! I always check what you have found with them. Thanks for all your help! We really appreciate it!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## jjceo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BentZero;13804924*
> Thanks for the info man. Now I guess I need to decide if Bulldozer and 990 is important to me. I won't actually be starting my build until mid-July for various reasons. Perphaps they'll be available by then and I can make up my mind at that time.


990 FX boards are out there in various brands. I have a new Crosshair V Formula 990 FX on the way via UPS. It was $231 plus shipping. If you haven't purchased yet wait a week or two. You will get an AM3+ socket and faster chipset. Memory can be driven up to 2.113 GHz and you can get 6 or more SATA 6 ports on them. You can even get 18 USB ports with 6 of them being USB 3. My new board will even do triple Crossfire X or SLI and even do Quad SLI.
The new ASUS board even has 8 embedded temperature sensors you can read out and locations to wire in 3 more of your choice.
Your new board will have a longer technical life to it and overclock easier with a 990 FX chipset. You will also get the new graphical user BIOS systems. Your buying something that will last for years to come so don't compromise when the new solution is weeks away. *Gigabyte has also announced their new boards and they will soon be available.* Go watch this video: Newegg TV: ASUS AMD AM3+ 900-series at 



 and you can see the possibilities of the new boards.

Enjoy your new build.


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13793201*
> So finally got my rig setup and now it wont boot. It seems there is a common problem with this board in where it wont recognize the optical drive so i cant boot from a disc. Anyone know where I should start?
> 
> I started by re-seating RAM. Making sure all devices had power. Did Mem test 100% zero errors. Made sure the disc wasn't bad. It booted fine on my other machine.
> 
> EDIT: Did some basic troubleshooting. Got no where.


Use IDE MODE and switch to SATA mode after installment via registry tweak.
Try other BIOS or switch to ide mode only the optical drive port ,if the board allows SATA ports control split.
Contact Gigabyte support.


----------



## Aussie Alex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjceo;13803214*
> Thanks for the wonderful addition to the data. Your input really clarified the answer to the question. If you read the post and his question I was replying to his idea to use and old AM3 socket board for a Bulldozer chip. Gigabyte does not have a BIOS for this. You have to buy a board with an AM3+ socket and you then will get a bios capable of using a Bulldozer Chip.
> 
> Taking one sentence that you believe is confusing and reposting it multiple times and deleting words is childish. You are a perfect example of why the internet sometimes sucks to get support from because your post adds no value but to cause controversy and waste space in the server. Grow up!


You sir, are an idiot.

I was simply pointing out my frustration in the fact that the pre v3 890FXA-UD5 boards are a mere bios update away and yet they are not being supported. Whereas other boards from MSI and ASUS are able to support the Bulldozer with the updated bios they have released or are releasing.

How uptight do you want to be mate? Do you not know how to take a post that merely points out the obvious that's starring everyone in the face yet noone wants to admit to because apparently, its easier to just unnecessarily burn another $210. I don't know about you but if I buy a product, I expect the best I can get from it and if that means pointing out the obvious by complaining about it to get a result, then so be it.

Get a life mate and learn how to socialise before pointing threatening fingers at people.


----------



## Blitz6804

That is good news Lindyrig (assuming you can get it to work)... that should officially support Bulldozer.


----------



## Lindyrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;13809243*
> That is good news Lindyrig (assuming you can get it to work)... that should officially support Bulldozer.


Yes that was my first thought as well. But it's getting it to work that will be the deciding factor. I've heard nothing but great things about these boards so when I get mine working it will be a great day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes;13808668*
> Use IDE MODE and switch to SATA mode after installment via registry tweak.
> Try other BIOS or switch to ide mode only the optical drive port ,if the board allows SATA ports control split.
> Contact Gigabyte support.


I've already done this. Changed ports. Used Native IDE/IDE on SATA 4/5.

Maybe if I just use an old REAL IDE drive? Think it would boot up that drive?


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aussie Alex*


I was simply pointing out my frustration in the fact that the pre v3 890FXA-UD5 boards are a mere bios update away and yet they are not being supported. Whereas other boards from MSI and ASUS are able to support the Bulldozer with the updated bios they have released or are releasing.

How uptight do you want to be mate? Do you not know how to take a post that merely points out the obvious that's starring everyone in the face yet noone wants to admit to because apparently, its easier to just unnecessarily burn another $210. I don't know about you but if I buy a product, I expect the best I can get from it and if that means pointing out the obvious by complaining about it to get a result, then so be it.


this..

what i think is worse is that the 890G series (890GPA-UD3) DOES support am3+ with rev 2 and below with a bios update that was released a couple of weeks ago....


----------



## Lindyrig

Alright finally getting somewhere... using a reg IDE DVD drive it finally booted the darn disc. Lets hope I can get a clean install and lets hope it will boot from the HDD?!?!


----------



## CesarNYC

Hello all! I did search this thread and noticed the EK water blocks for the mobo has been mentioned more then once, but has anyone actually tried it? The EK website says something like "SB blocked by PCB!" under compatibility remarks, and I wonder exactly what they mean. I want to try WC this board while I wait patiently for the 'Dozer picture to come into focus. I am pretty sure I am going to get it, just wondering what's in store for me.


----------



## Coldplayer

having massive trouble hitting 4ghz on this with my 1090T.

I get 3.8ghz 1.375v 24 hours stable..2600mhz NB clock..1.25v CPU-NB...

I tried 4ghz with 1.45v and i cant pass 1 IBT test...tried downing my NB clock to stock and raising my CPU-NB voltage to 1.3 but no dice..
Ideas?


----------



## Blitz6804

How are you trying to get there? 20x200? Or 16x250? I my experience, the latter required less voltage (1.440 V for months until my CPU started to die).


----------



## Coldplayer

20x200


----------



## Blitz6804

Try decreasing your RAM divider to 1066 (x5.33), decrease your multiplier to 16x, decrease your HT multiplier to 8x, decrease your NB multiplier to 10x, and increase your HTT to 250. That should give you 4000 MHz CPU, 2000 MHz HT, 2500 MHz NB, and DDR3-1333. See if that is stable, and if so, we can tweak from there. If not, your CPU does not want to do 4.0 GHz with only 1.440 V.


----------



## Coldplayer

whats the best bios for my rev 2.1?


----------



## Blitz6804

Depending who you ask, F3 or F4.


----------



## Coldplayer

what are the differences between the two?


----------



## Blitz6804

F4 has more options, but memory seems to be pickier to run. At least on the 2.0 boards, with a 2.1 (and its improved memory path) the F4 might be the better choice.


----------



## ht_addict

Having issue installing Win7 on my OCZ Agility 3 SSD. During the install and after Win7 install the OS runs really slow. Click on an ICON and the circle comes up as its waiting to respond. I changed the BIOS to ACHI mode before install. If I change it to IDE mode after install all is fine. Any ideas? Am I missing something in the BIOS?


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;13837184*
> Having issue installing Win7 on my OCZ Agility 3 SSD. During the install and after Win7 install the OS runs really slow. Click on an ICON and the circle comes up as its waiting to respond. I changed the BIOS to ACHI mode before install. If I change it to IDE mode after install all is fine. Any ideas? Am I missing something in the BIOS?


Some how figured it out. On another another note does this board support Port Multiplier on the eSata Port? I have a Thermaltake BlacX for my 2 HDD but only one is recognized when I hook up via eSata, yet 2 are recognized via USB. Any thoughts?


----------



## Lindyrig

I have the exact same problem on my AM3+ Rev 3.1 Bios FB UD5. The thermaltake eSATA BlackX will not show up when plugged in. However when I plug it in via USB it will.


----------



## siriq

I had similar problem with dvd drive. I bought a new one and everything works fine(motherboard very picky on dvd drive) . 
Different subject: RAM: I got Kingston lovo(low voltage ram) and Corsair XMS 3. Perfectly working together. I got 8+4 Gig ram now @ 1.5v. 1T normal settings. Even if I wanna overclock them, no problem at all(1700 mhz was good for both with the 1.5 voltage)


----------



## blackalphabet

will this board be supporting BullDozer chip set ?

i've skimmed like 2 pages back, so far it doesn't look like it, can i get some clarification ?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


will this board be supporting BullDozer chip set ?

i've skimmed like 2 pages back, so far it doesn't look like it, can i get some clarification ?


The Rev. 3.1 support AM3+ CPUs, the other doesn't.


----------



## Lindyrig

Gigabyte Rev3.1 Bios FB now being sold from Newegg.com. I recieved a black socket AM3+ last week.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lindyrig*


Gigabyte Rev3.1 Bios FB now being sold from Newegg.com. I recieved a black socket AM3+ last week.


Why no RMA it an get a new one with 990FX chipset?


----------



## Lindyrig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Why no RMA it an get a new one with 990FX chipset?


No reason to spend more money for same options.


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


The Rev. 3.1 support AM3+ CPUs, the other doesn't.


well that just blows balls >.>

is there a way Gigabyte will accept a return and send a rev 3.1 board ^^ ?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


well that just blows balls >.>

is there a way Gigabyte will accept a return and send a rev 3.1 board ^^ ?


If I were Gigabyte I'd not do that, just business they need that you buy a new mobo and not give you another one for exchange.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;13871910*
> If I were Gigabyte I'd not do that, just business they need that you buy a new mobo and not give you another one for exchange.


That would be my guess as well. As sucky as it sounds, that's just how business works unfortunately.


----------



## preorded

I have a Gigabyte 890FX ud5 motherboard and a AMD 1090t CPU at 3.7 GHz, a couple of weeks I got a electricity blackout. Yesterday I installed CPUID and it showed that it was clocked at 3.725 GHz while in bios it's 3.7 GHz. I know for sure when I had CPUID installed before it have always said 3.699 GHz or 3.701 GHz. I also used 3DMard11 several times yesterday and the CPU test did show lower numbers than before and it also failed one time. So my question is if you guys think if this blackout have done something to my CPU or even motherboard? My system is stable so far I think.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preorded;13879177*
> I have a Gigabyte 890FX ud5 motherboard and a AMD 1090t CPU at 3.7 GHz, a couple of weeks I got a electricity blackout. Yesterday I installed CPUID and it showed that it was clocked at 3.725 GHz while in bios it's 3.7 GHz. I know for sure when I had CPUID installed before it have always said 3.699 GHz or 3.701 GHz. I also used 3DMard11 several times yesterday and the CPU test did show lower numbers than before and it also failed one time. So my question is if you guys think if this blackout have done something to my CPU or even motherboard? My system is stable so far I think.


That difference that you see is because your "Reference Clock" isn't at 200MHz, that's not a problem unless that you see stability problems or something like that.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pali*


Crap cow! Im gonna miss your expertise with these boards! I always check what you have found with them. Thanks for all your help! We really appreciate it!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I'm still here in a roundabout way. I don't specifically own the board anymore; my girlfriend does. So, it lives on, and if anything breaks, I still get to deal with it. It's not being overclocked anymore, but undervolted for cooling purposes, which can also be similar to overclocking.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


this..

what i think is worse is that the 890G series (890GPA-UD3) DOES support am3+ with rev 2 and below with a bios update that was released a couple of weeks ago....


Yes, I recently built a system for my mom with a 890GPA-UD3H (swapped from the girlfriend's machine since onboard video was required, and she has a GTX260). That was really the tipping point for me with the board, and I shortly after swapped things out, made some money back, and waved goodbye to everyday life with the UD5. But the tale isn't over...

Currently the board is running at stock clocks with a 965 C2 chip, undervolted to 1.3ish volts. I've noticed the board has taken to a *very* long start prior to POST. The CPU fan will cycle on and off several times, as though the system is in a boot loop, and then suddenly hit POST. It does this every time.

I haven't jumped into it very deeply, but will probably re-flash the BIOS to F3 in order to remove any potential issues. So far the girlfriend hasn't noticed a difference from her old board (the GPA) other than the boot bug.

I updated the signature to reflect my changes. I'm just waiting for Bulldozer, as I looked at SandyBridge, and was really turned off by the lack of PCI-E lanes, as I have a lot more hard drives to hook up. AMD boards seem to excel in this, and it's one reason I'm waiting. Hopefully Bulldozer will not disappoint.

Anyway, I'll still be following this club thread until I, or anyone close to me has the board, which should be some years, assuming nothing breaks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


well that just blows balls >.>

is there a way Gigabyte will accept a return and send a rev 3.1 board ^^ ?


This had been asked before by another member, but I never heard anything. At one point I sent a few emails to Gigabyte, but also received no response about any of it. It may be in their best interest to foster customer loyalty and swap out the boards, but they are a business (a huge one at that). I highly doubt they will offer an upgrade program such as EVGA has.


----------



## hesho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;13871910*
> If I were Gigabyte I'd not do that, just business they need that you buy a new mobo and not give you another one for exchange.


while that may be true...

i wonder how many owners of rev 2.x boards is willing to purchase another gigabyte product because they didn't release a bios update when the other vendors have? Heck, a lower end model has a bios update too but not this one.

Personally, i'm looking at asus right now just because it looks like they are at least supporting their older product lines.


----------



## ht_addict

Personally I won't by Gigabyte ever again if no BIOS update comes out. Also if you look at the revisions of the boards on their website. Rev3.0 is a white socket with the same BIOS as the Rev3.1 that has the Black Socket. So they can't say it takes a new socket for compatibility.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;13905759*
> while that may be true...
> 
> i wonder how many owners of rev 2.x boards is willing to purchase another gigabyte product because they didn't release a bios update when the other vendors have? Heck, a lower end model has a bios update too but not this one.
> 
> Personally, i'm looking at asus right now just because it looks like they are at least supporting their older product lines.


A new Crosshair V comes on the way using International Shipping, but I'd keep this Gigabyte mobo for overclocking and fun. This is a very good mobo I don't know why Gigabyte won't gave us the BIOS update


----------



## WiseAss

GA-890FXA-UD7 rev2.1 AM3+ bios update released! (F5E) They haven't forgotten about us!!!!!


----------



## harmor

I own the UD5 board rev. 3.1. I don't have proof it's revision 3.1 but if you do need it I'll take a picture when I get a chance.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1855368


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *harmor*


I own the UD5 board rev. 3.1. I don't have proof it's revision 3.1 but if you do need it I'll take a picture when I get a chance.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1855368


Check one of the corners of your mobo, next to the screw's hole. There you can find the revision of your mobo.


----------



## WiseAss

Hello,

I've flashed my bios to F5E, everything seems fine. But, if I disable "cool n quiet" it seems to stay enabled (in windows - cpuid I can see it down clocks when idling). Anyone else tested it jet?

not a major bug, but still a bug...


----------



## harmor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;13932861*
> Check one of the corners of your mobo, next to the screw's hole. There you can find the revision of your mobo.


I know it's a 3.1 revision. Would you prefer I took a picture for proof?


----------



## pondermotive

Recently upgraded to a UD5 from an intel system (ip35 pro + E8400), revision 2.0. It has bios F6 atm, but it seems most people here are using bios F3 or F5, is there a good reason for this?

Current oc with an unlocked 555:










Core 3 fails prime after 2-4 hours:










I know from other experiments that it's potential is about 100-200MHz lower at the same voltage than the other cores, I was hoping to try using a different value for advanced clock calibration or clock this core lower than the others but neither of these options exist in the bios i'm using. The closest I can do is disable the core, of course I could increase the core voltage but I want heat output as low as possible.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I used F6, and it's still under use in the board since it's switched hands. I didn't have much of an issue with it, and it seemed to work better. I ran the 1090T @ 4Ghz for some time, and it worked out well. F3 seems to work best for overclocking, but I had issues with it being finicky with RAM.

Unlocking is not always going to work for every single chip. You should not expect to even unlock the extra cores...it's extra gravy if you do, and even more so if they overclock well. If that core is failing, try using the Intel Burn Test, too. Chances are your vcore is too low, the CPU core is too low, and should be disabled, or the chip simply won't run it.


----------



## ToxicAdam

*AMD 990FX: The Cold Hard Truth*

Quote:



So here is where it is a bit disappointing; the 990FX shares exactly the same silicon as the 890FX and has seen no major changes. Even the added SB950 is a rebadged SB850. Initially, there were hopes that the chipset and new SB950 had some major additions: adding native USB3 support, using a smaller die size, additional PCI-e lanes - but these were not added. Rather, the major features of the 990FX were key support for the eight-core processors and support for the faster HyperTransport 3.1 with signaling up to 6.4 GT/s (on 890FX you get 3.0 with up to 5.2 GT/s).


http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/artic...lldozer/1315/1

There is no reason for Gigabyte not to release us a Bulldozer bios update.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Don't forget the change in power gating. That's a very significant change. While it might not be major in terms of the chipset, changing the BIOS structure to EFI (a plus in my opinion, and long overdue) will also allow for greater flexibility. Put the two together and a 990FX may not be a huge update (the 890 itself was even less of an update to the 790, except for the SB changes), but it's still significant, and will likely be used for a few years to come. I think the basic design was already good, but needed some tweaks. Remember the VIA chipsets of Socket A days? They went through a ton of revisions, and the final hurrah for single channel memory was not bad; it almost matched a dual channel setup.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


*AMD 990FX: The Cold Hard Truth*

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/artic...lldozer/1315/1

There is no reason for Gigabyte not to release us a Bulldozer bios update.


Well, I sure hope so, Gigabyte told me that a BIOS update may be released if testing another BIOSes would work without problem.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-X3-*


Well, I sure hope so, Gigabyte told me that a BIOS update may be released if testing another BIOSes would work without problem.


Kind of crazy since they'd mentioned earlier that the 890FX board was not getting an update.


----------



## hesho

i think what is rather interesting is that the 890FX-UD7 rev 2.x has a bios update though in beta. I personally always considered both boards to be the same other then the water block.

@ wiseass

not alot of ppl have the UD7 so it may take awhile for someone to answer you.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Kind of crazy since they'd mentioned earlier that the 890FX board was not getting an update.


So you have probably misunderstood it. It's a fact that the UD7 has a BIOS update....

And as I wrote, Gigabyte sent a response letter to my question a couple of days ago, and they said that a BIOS update may be released if testing some other BIOSes is a success.

I can provide a copy of the response I you want.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-X3-*


So you have probably misunderstood it. It's a fact that the UD7 has a BIOS update....

And as I wrote, Gigabyte sent a response letter to my question a couple of days ago, and they said that a BIOS update may be released if testing some other BIOSes is a success.

I can provide a copy of the response I you want.


They'd been asked about the UD5, which is an 890FX board, and had said no. Sadly, the 890GPA-UD3H, an 890GX board, already has an update to support Bulldozer.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


They'd been asked about the UD5, which is an 890FX board, and had said no. Sadly, the 890GPA-UD3H, an 890GX board, already has an update to support Bulldozer.


Again, I'm just telling you what they have told me, that's all.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13972997*
> Again, I'm just telling you what they have told me, that's all.


Even if it is true; too little, too late. I already rid myself of the board because I was unhappy with it, and due to their previous response. The UD5 was my first GB board, and they lost a customer because of it.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13973996*
> Even if it is true; too little, too late. I already rid myself of the board because I was unhappy with it, and due to their previous response. The UD5 was my first GB board, and they lost a customer because of it.


You disliked the board just because you have been told it won't support BD?

If it doesn't support BD, sure, it won't be that great, but from my experience, it seems like a great board for pretty much anything... Unlocked my cores in 1 sec, easy overclocking there, and all of the functions I have no idea what they mean haha


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-X3-;13974369*
> You disliked the board just because you have been told it won't support BD?
> 
> If it doesn't support BD, sure, it won't be that great, but from my experience, it seems like a great board for pretty much anything... Unlocked my cores in 1 sec, easy overclocking there, and all of the functions I have no idea what they mean haha


I disliked the board because I had to send it back twice before I got one that worked. GB wanted to argue with me about it the whole time. Both boards had serious compatibility problems, even with RAM that was on the QVL, which GB said was only a reference, and did not mean the RAM actually would work in the board (coming from customer service's phone support).

Overclocking the CPU was good. Overclocking anything motherboard or RAM related was not. The chip was much more stable in an 890gx Asus board, which I switched to entirely. On top of that, the board runs too hot in my opinion, even when on water cooling (or it's a faulty sensor, but both boards read the same).

GB hasn't given V2.0 a BIOS update since Nov. of last year, and the BIOS still has obvious bugs. Voltage stepping is not right with turbo mode on a Thuban engaged, half multipliers are missing. Those were the two I noticed the most. Combine that with the glaring RAM compatibility issue, and this board was the worst thing I've had to overclock with. Even the legendary Abit boards of yesteryear had less RAM compatibility issues, and I'm not joking. Some here had played around with a BIOS update and lost their RAID arrays, and the date contained within. I'd call that a problem, too.

So now GB is flip-flopping on their Bulldozer support, long after they said they wouldn't. Probably because I've seen unhappy comments from customers who thought the board would have some upward compatibility like the competing brands do.

The board options are great for the UD5. The layout is really nice, too. The heatsinks suck. RAM issues aplenty with it, and poor support from GB.

If you'd read through the whole thread (takes a lot of time, I know, and am not admonishing you over this) then you'd know the soap opera of a time I've had with this board.

What irks me the most is that this is one of their flagship boards (or was, now that the 990fx is out). Granted, the UD7 is better, but it's also bigger. I remember seeing enough complaints about buggy BIOS for those boards as well. Overall, HIGHLY disappointed.


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;13974692*
> I disliked the board because I had to send it back twice before I got one that worked. GB wanted to argue with me about it the whole time. Both boards had serious compatibility problems, even with RAM that was on the QVL, which GB said was only a reference, and did not mean the RAM actually would work in the board (coming from customer service's phone support).
> 
> Overclocking the CPU was good. Overclocking anything motherboard or RAM related was not. The chip was much more stable in an 890gx Asus board, which I switched to entirely. On top of that, the board runs too hot in my opinion, even when on water cooling (or it's a faulty sensor, but both boards read the same).
> 
> GB hasn't given V2.0 a BIOS update since Nov. of last year, and the BIOS still has obvious bugs. Voltage stepping is not right with turbo mode on a Thuban engaged, half multipliers are missing. Those were the two I noticed the most. Combine that with the glaring RAM compatibility issue, and this board was the worst thing I've had to overclock with. Even the legendary Abit boards of yesteryear had less RAM compatibility issues, and I'm not joking. Some here had played around with a BIOS update and lost their RAID arrays, and the date contained within. I'd call that a problem, too.
> 
> So now GB is flip-flopping on their Bulldozer support, long after they said they wouldn't. Probably because I've seen unhappy comments from customers who thought the board would have some upward compatibility like the competing brands do.
> 
> The board options are great for the UD5. The layout is really nice, too. The heatsinks suck. RAM issues aplenty with it, and poor support from GB.
> 
> If you'd read through the whole thread (takes a lot of time, I know, and am not admonishing you over this) then you'd know the soap opera of a time I've had with this board.
> 
> What irks me the most is that this is one of their flagship boards (or was, now that the 990fx is out). Granted, the UD7 is better, but it's also bigger. I remember seeing enough complaints about buggy BIOS for those boards as well. Overall, HIGHLY disappointed.


I do understand you.

Though I haven't encountered ANY of the problems you have mentioned, so you are probably a private case. I don't see any problem with OCing my memory, the heatsking work okay (temps are fine), and my processor is stable as heaven, unlocked on stock V.

I don't have complaints about the board, and even if the board don't support BD, I won't be so dissapointed... In the worst case scenario, I'll trade it for something else.


----------



## Blitz6804

It is possible you had the odd board -X3-... one that worked properly from the first instance!









Personally, I will believe nothing one way or another until I get a new BIOS in my hands given how some companies lie. For example, nVidia press department kept saying that the error with the nForce3, dual core, and ATi graphics card "would be fixed shortly," while the tech support department told you to go buy an nForce4 or 5 board. Even the CEO of the company said it would be fixed, but to this day, it is still broken to my knowledge.

Believe only tangible evidence... not what a company says.









Besides: it is bogus that Gigabyte has released an F5E BIOS for the UD7, but there is no F7E BIOS for the UD5 _at this time._


----------



## Lindyrig

Another question is why release a 890FXA UD5 AM3+ BD ready model and have 2 bios updates ready to go the day they release it. I currently have the Bulldozer ready Bios FB version of this board. What is so hard about updating the old Bios from the previous reversions. Instead of releasing a new board, but not really new.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13980731*
> Another question is why release a 890FXA UD5 AM3+ BD ready model and have 2 bios updates ready to go the day they release it. I currently have the Bulldozer ready Bios FB version of this board. What is so hard about updating the old Bios from the previous reversions. Instead of releasing a new board, but not really new.


990FX chipset is why but it is pretty much the same as 890 chipset with a few added features. Both chipsets overclock the same. If yoy own a 890 AM3+, there is no reason to change. If yoy are looking for a new board, the 6 x 6G SATA is nice to have.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lindyrig*


Another question is why release a 890FXA UD5 AM3+ BD ready model and have 2 bios updates ready to go the day they release it. I currently have the Bulldozer ready Bios FB version of this board. What is so hard about updating the old Bios from the previous reversions. Instead of releasing a new board, but not really new.


The memory layout was changed on the later versions, from 2.1 onward. Only V 1.0 and 2.0 had the original DIMM layout (side by side instead of split). I think that's what caused them to change the board. AM3+ should have better power gating, which was broken with turbo mode: 1.425 volts under 6 core and 3 core load, not 1.325 under 6 core load, and 1.425 under turbo 3 core. Idle was normal.

Blitz: I quite agree. I don't really believe it until I see it, although it still doesn't matter to me. Perhaps I had odd boards, but that still speaks very clearly about GB's quality from the factory as well as from the RMA department. Either way is not exactly positive for GB.


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


I used F6, and it's still under use in the board since it's switched hands. I didn't have much of an issue with it, and it seemed to work better. I ran the 1090T @ 4Ghz for some time, and it worked out well. F3 seems to work best for overclocking, but I had issues with it being finicky with RAM.

Unlocking is not always going to work for every single chip. You should not expect to even unlock the extra cores...it's extra gravy if you do, and even more so if they overclock well. If that core is failing, try using the Intel Burn Test, too. Chances are your vcore is too low, the CPU core is too low, and should be disabled, or the chip simply won't run it.


Core 3 managed 4 hours before failing prime, also done 5 cycles of IBT (not tried more yet). It doesn't crash in games or anything else but I want 10 hours prime stable. Previous owner ran all 4 cores at 4.2GHz with 1.44v 24/7 with water cooling, I'm using a TRUE with quiet noctua fans so want the voltage as low as possible:


























Other boards have an advanced clock calibration (ACC) option that the ud5 seems to be lacking, maybe it is in a different bios? Also in AOD multipliers can be set differently for individual cores, it would be nice to see this option in the bios rather than relying on software.


----------



## PureOC Jim

ACC is no good to overclock. Just use Turbo but disable cool n quiet. I got 4.5GHz under water on a 980.


----------



## clock_work

man i love this board


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim*


ACC is no good to overclock. Just use Turbo but disable cool n quiet. I got 4.5GHz under water on a 980.


I think only X6s support turbo (maybe some 9xxT have it but not seen them in the wild). CnQ is still good to use if your cpu is happy at the lower frequencies and voltages CnQ chooses at low loads, saves leccy and lowers idle heat and noise..

From what I've read each core should have an optimum ACC level, thought it might be interesting to play around with but it just seems to missing all together.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim*


ACC is no good to overclock. Just use Turbo but disable cool n quiet. I got 4.5GHz under water on a 980.


The only quad core with Turbo is the 960T, that's on sale from yesterday.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Check out the review with 890FX and 990FX comparisons.

http://www.pureoverclock.com/article1305.html


----------



## pali

The 990 looks pretty sweet. Thank god gigabyte got their head out of their butt and decided to support nvidia sli. I wont have to use the sli hack anymore! Does anyone know if the 990 will be any more benificial for my x6 1090t bandwidth wise?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## jjceo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;13905759*
> while that may be true...
> 
> i wonder how many owners of rev 2.x boards is willing to purchase another gigabyte product because they didn't release a bios update when the other vendors have? Heck, a lower end model has a bios update too but not this one.
> 
> Personally, i'm looking at asus right now just because it looks like they are at least supporting their older product lines.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I just built a new computer with Crosshair V and a AMD 1100t. I am waiting for bulldozer to upgrade CPU. Gigabyte lost my future business. A simple BIOS that others are doing and Gigabyte believes more in making money than customer service. ASUS is on the ball. This Crosshair V Formula rocks!


----------



## siriq

Gigabyte will lose my future, if They don't release a bios upgrade to my mobo. Well, i am at waiting period to see, whats gonna happen.


----------



## hesho

i'm still wondering if they will have a bios update or not. The ud7 got one, and a bunch of older mobos also got one so who knows...

It's just that they already said they won't so... who knows..


----------



## pali

Here is my UD5 in action:


----------



## fidof650

Nice Rig!

~fidof650


----------



## pali

Does anyone know of a chipset waterblock specifically made for the ud5/ud7? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I posted this info some months ago in the thread.

Currently the only set is a generic EK set for the 790FX chipset that happens to fit the layout of the UD5 board pretty well, although the southbridge block may be in the way of long video cards. I can't confirm it as I only cooled the VRM and northbridge using a Danger Den and Enzotech respectively. The Southbridge was passively cooled with a heatsink held on with thermal tape.

The sets can be found on Performance PCs (cheapest set here)

( from FrozenCPU cheapest here)

As it stands, I don't have the UD5 anymore, I may get rid of those blocks since they may not fit the board I choose for the future. It depends on if I jump back with Bulldozer, and the board I choose can take the blocks.


----------



## pondermotive

Is it worth replacing the push pins with M3 bolts and thermal pads with decent paste on the chipset/pwm cooler?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

The PWM cooler is making very good contact with the VRM section, and the chipsets have plenty of downforce on them, with the NB having the most. It's open core, so I wouldn't be comfortable putting a whole lot of pressure on it, especially the wide bolt pattern and the board being a bit flexible. The problem with the stock solution is that it simply lacks surface area. It looks neat, but isn't as functional. Some time ago I had started a project to cut custom heatsinks for the board, but had the dremel die, and never picked it back up due to switching to liquid.


----------



## pali

Jeez this thread has slowed down a lot since you got a new board cow! Come back to the dark side lol

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Maybe I had the bastard children of UD5 boards. I do know that the girlfriend is enjoying it, although I have not yet looked into the painfully slow POSTing issue it conjured out of thin air. I'll likely do an F3 BIOS rollback and set it up from there.


----------



## pali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;14049469*
> Maybe I had the bastard children of UD5 boards. I do know that the girlfriend is enjoying it, although I have not yet looked into the painfully slow POSTing issue it conjured out of thin air. I'll likely do an F3 BIOS rollback and set it up from there.


Yes I've so far had the most success from F3 myself. Least amount of problems that is, or the tallest "little person", as you might say.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

F6 works well with Thuban for me. However, the board runs a 140 watt Deneb model, so I'm wondering if the BIOS isn't really set up for it somehow. It's also undervolting slightly because the CPU is a heat pump in an almost literal sense. Decent OCer, though, with 3.8 Ghz on the stock 1.425 voltage. Running stock clocks with about 1.30 volts going to it.


----------



## ani4may

hi,

what would be the best memory config for my sig. system . i am currently using 2x4gb 1600mhz corsair xms3 sticks . can i hold onto these by changing timing or something of the kind . please help i've never done anything like this before .

thank you


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Coming from someone who's used Dominator RAM, which is extremely similar to your XMS3, just run it at stock timings and voltage.

Also, in other news, I did rollback to F3, and the system no longer takes ~30 seconds to POST, so obviously F6 was not cutting the mustard. For older, quad core CPUs, I would highly suggest staying away from F6, or possibly anything beyond F3.


----------



## tjwurzburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;14124638*
> Also, in other news, I did rollback to F3, and the system no longer takes ~30 seconds to POST, so obviously F6 was not cutting the mustard. For older, quad core CPUs, I would highly suggest staying away from F6, or possibly anything beyond F3.


Hi gents, I'm new to OCN. Quick newbie question. I have a UD5 rev 3.1. During POST and in CPU-Z my BIOS version is listed as "FB". In this thread you guys refer to the BIOS versions as F1-F6. Am I missing something?










If the "B" is a hex identifier that would equate to "F11", but that's outside the range ya'll are talking about, too.

BTW, one of the reasons I'm asking is because I'd like to join the club, but to fill out the membership form I'd like to get the BIOS version right!

Thanks.








-Joe


----------



## nonamelab

@tjwurzburger:

You have 3.1 revision wich come with AM3+ socket.

The majority of us have revision 2.0, 2.1 wich come with AM3 socket so that's why we have other bioses.

You can see the diferences here :

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3781#bios

Chose other version under mb name to se the avaiable bios for each revision.


----------



## tjwurzburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;14131021*
> @tjwurzburger:
> 
> You have 3.1 revision wich come with AM3+ socket.
> 
> The majority of us have revision 2.0, 2.1 wich come with AM3 socket so that's why we have other bioses.


That clears it up. Thanks for the quick response.

Wow, I'm stoked. This means I'll be able to get the bulldozer CPU without another MOBO swap!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tjwurzburger*


That clears it up. Thanks for the quick response.

Wow, I'm stoked. This means I'll be able to get the bulldozer CPU without another MOBO swap!










Unlike most UD5 owners


----------



## tjwurzburger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Unlike most UD5 owners










@Cow ... Sorry, bro. I should have realized that was indelicate to mention.

In other news, I just arrived at my first 4GHz+ overclock. Frankly this is fairly new to me and I'm still stress-testing. P95 and IBT seem okay, next I want to get some benches. PC Mark, 3D Mark, and OCCT ... should those be enough to assure stability?

Any advice for ideal overclock strategy? I mostly used CPU multiplier with minor frequency tweaks and voltage raising. Something tells me I could do it much better with higher freq/lower multiplier (e.g. which should also increase memory performance). I've read a lot of the pages in this thread, but it'll take me a few more days to get through all of it!

Best wishes,
Joe


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tjwurzburger*


@Cow ... Sorry, bro. I should have realized that was indelicate to mention.

In other news, I just arrived at my first 4GHz+ overclock. Frankly this is fairly new to me and I'm still stress-testing. P95 and IBT seem okay, next I want to get some benches. PC Mark, 3D Mark, and OCCT ... should those be enough to assure stability?

Any advice for ideal overclock strategy? I mostly used CPU multiplier with minor frequency tweaks and voltage raising. Something tells me I could it better with higher freq/lower multiplier (e.g. also increase memory performance). I've read a lot of the pages in this thread, but it'll take me a few more days to get through all of it!

Best wishes,
Joe


No worries about you. It's not your fault Gigabyte won't support their hardware







. This is why I let the girlfriend have it, as she won't be upgrading anytime soon, except for video cards possibly, and the board will hold her over for a while. It was a disappointment for me.

My 4.0 clock came in at 1.425 volts, with the RAM at DDR3 1666, 7-8-7-22 1T timings (1.65v). Base clock was set to 250 Mhz. Hypertransport was kept at 2000. NB frequency was 2500. I ran the NB and CPU-NB voltages around 1.2 without issue. Spread spectrum was turned off, as was Turbo mode (due to voltage swing issues GB never corrected). C1 and C&Q were both enabled, and I had no problems out of it.

Much of the information has been posted, but since the thread is pretty large, a good search will help you find it.

I was testing with P95/Linpack/MSI Kombustor simultaneously, for 24 hours, to determine stability. I also tried S&M and Intel Burn test, also while running Kombustor. My temps were below 40C the entire time, even on hotter days (water cooling). The chips do not cope well with heat, and after 50C seem to destabilize a little. 55C seems to be the absolute limit with stability.


----------



## pondermotive

Do you know if anyone has tried flashing a 2.x revision board with a 3.x bios? Should be fairly risk free as the backup bios can be used to flash back if it doesn't work.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pondermotive;14136939*
> Do you know if anyone has tried flashing a 2.x revision board with a 3.x bios? Should be fairly risk free as the backup bios can be used to flash back if it doesn't work.


I wouldn't try that due to a few differences between the boards. Revision 2.0 has a core unlocking chip, and different memory layout compared to 2.1 and beyond. I doubt the BIOS types are compatible. It might be worth a shot, but that is an experiment I am not willing to try, as I've had problems getting the backup BIOS to boot if the primary has issues (as in it wouldn't boot from the backup).


----------



## pondermotive

You may be correct regarding the 3.x bioses, but f3-f6 bios for the 2.x boards are identical, I think gigabyte discovered a superior method of core unlock without using the unlock chip. I would wager that a 2.0 board using f3-f6 bios does not use the unlock chip to unlock cores.


----------



## hesho

^^

actually, i do believe the 3.x boards do not have the ability to unlock at all. I know that most of the beta bios for am3+ support on the other board also removes the ability for core unlocking as well.


----------



## tjwurzburger

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


^^

actually, i do believe the 3.x boards do not have the ability to unlock at all. I know that most of the beta bios for am3+ support on the other board also removes the ability for core unlocking as well.


Hmm I couldn't say, as I've got a BE in mine. However -- for what it's worth -- the option is still in the BIOS.


----------



## pali

I just installed Win 7 ultimate 64 bit on a spare hd for testing purposes and when I tried to go to f3 bios it said it is not comparable with 64 bit win7. I tried others as well and as soon as i execute it, it states not compatable with 64 bit. On the gigabyte website for the ud5 rev 2.0 it doesnt have an OS selection dropdown menu for the bios page. Anyone know what I should do or what bios version to run? Ahem cow I need your help!!!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## pondermotive

You need to use flashing software, you can't just run the file. I think the driver/utility disk has software to do it, if not there are lots of others available.


----------



## siriq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pali*


I just installed Win 7 ultimate 64 bit on a spare hd for testing purposes and when I tried to go to f3 bios it said it is not comparable with 64 bit win7. I tried others as well and as soon as i execute it, it states not compatable with 64 bit. On the gigabyte website for the ud5 rev 2.0 it doesnt have an OS selection dropdown menu for the bios page. Anyone know what I should do or what bios version to run? Ahem cow I need your help!!!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Hi!

If you want to upgrade your bios, just simply follow the instructions. 
http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/121/tech_a_bios.htm


----------



## Speed_hunter

Thank you very much I've learned alot .......


----------



## Kiken

Hi guys, im nw to this forum and i hope you can help me with a problem i'm having with my mobo. I've been using my Gigabyte GA-890FXA UD5 rev 2.0 without any problems for about 6 months, recently i bought 2 wd 500gb hard drives to do a Raid 0.

Its all good until the moment i have to select my drivers for windows 7 to reconize the array. (I'm installing Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bits)

The driver i'm using is "AMD SATA RAID Driver (Preinstall driver, press F6 during Windows* setup to read from floppy)" Version 3.2.1540.75 from the official webpage but windows show an error that the driver is no signed so it can continue...

Any one knows what's the deal with this error and how to fix it? I really want to install the Raid 0 since i'm a bit of a gamer and i need more performance with my games.

I've also Updated the bios to the latest (F6) with no good results...

I hope you can help me with this guys, thanks in advance!

P.S.: Sorry about my bad English (I'm Chilean).


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Fill out your computer's parts list and specifications for more help, as we don't know what RAM, CPU, video card, or anything else you have in your system other than motherboard. I've installed Win7 Ultimate 64 bit, and don't have a RAID, so I will not likely give good advice. A few of the UD5 owners have tried RAID on this board, however, and will know more of its tricks.


----------



## Kiken

Ok I've updated my system on user CP, i hope that helps.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I would suggest staying away from F6 BIOS if you're using a Deneb core CPU. The girlfriend is using a 965 C2 chip, and F6 was acting very strangely. I rolled back to F3, and it is fine now. F6 went at a random point, taking a solid 30+ seconds to reach the POST beeping stage.


----------



## Blitz6804

Gigabyte's official line is: unless you're using a CPU that requires the F5 BIOS or newer, do not use it. (1075T or 1100T, for example.)

You should be able to install Windows 7 without needing any RAID driver discs, as Windows is supposed to natively support it.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Just the person I was hoping would respond. Also, congrats on your recent move to moderator, Blitz, unless I never noticed it in the past.


----------



## siriq

Well, i got no problem with F6 so far. Even i use unlocked cpu, @ different brand memory (one is low voltage the other one not). Need more tweak with F6, that's all.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *siriq*


Well, i got no problem with F6 so far. Even i use unlocked cpu, @ different brand memory (one is low voltage the other one not). Need more tweak with F6, that's all.


The main problem with the F6 BIOS is when you have a raid array and try to update from an older version to that version, the raid array is dead.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## pondermotive

I'm also using F6 with no problems, only quibbles I can think of is no half multipliers and CnQ only works with stock core multiplier. Finalised my oc now, 555 as an X4 @4GHz 1.375V, passed 16 hours prime blend and 50 linX cycles. My ram can't get stable at 1600MHz even with cl9 but I don't think that is the fault of the ud5.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pondermotive*


I'm also using F6 with no problems, only quibbles I can think of is no half multipliers and CnQ only works with stock core multiplier. Finalised my oc now, 555 as an X4 @4GHz 1.375V, passed 16 hours prime blend and 50 linX cycles. My ram can't get stable at 1600MHz even with cl9 but I don't think that is the fault of the ud5.


That depends on the multiplier. Beyond 17x (I think) C&Q is disabled. I had no problems with a 250x16 setup on my 1090T and C&Q.


----------



## siriq

I very much recommend K10 stat. http://aspiregemstone.blogspot.com/2009/06/k10stat-amd-griffin-processor.html . Personally, I never use C&Q again. 600 [email protected] vcore. My memory's are at 1600 mhz T1 9-9-9-29. No glitches at all. [email protected] So far so good. Just waiting for BD support bios.

Well, from the other hand, i dont use raid, so can't say anything about F6 and raid but i believe you.


----------



## thezfunk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


The main problem with the F6 BIOS is when you have a raid array and try to update from an older version to that version, the raid array is dead.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


Either F3 or F4 got some new firmware for the RAID and that's why upgrading past it screws up the raid. Once you have the firmware update then you can update the bios without screwing your RAID. I have F6 with my hex core and love it. I also run RAID0 with two Raptors and love that as well.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thezfunk*


Either F3 or F4 got some new firmware for the RAID and that's why upgrading past it screws up the raid. Once you have the firmware update then you can update the bios without screwing your RAID. I have F6 with my hex core and love it. I also run RAID0 with two Raptors and love that as well.


I have an ssd and indon't use raid. F4 has been very good for me and my 1090T with NB @ 3000MHz

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## Blitz6804

It is kinda old now (as it was done on an x4 940), but I made a quick "How To" to use K10stat. If you wish to read it, it is available here. If you have an x6, and you want to access cores 4/5 in the P-State tab, you have to click the text where it says "core0 core1 core 2 core 3." That makes it flip to says "core 4 core 5."


----------



## Coldplayer

ive got 2.1 revision and having a hard time getting my memory stable at stock...ive got them in dim 1/2...should i move them to 3/4? i heard it doesnt help with 2.1 but worth a shot?

Cheers


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


ive got 2.1 revision and having a hard time getting my memory stable at stock...ive got them in dim 1/2...should i move them to 3/4? i heard it doesnt help with 2.1 but worth a shot?

Cheers


What memory and what are the specs of it?

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## Blitz6804

If you have a Rev 2.1 (blue/white/blue/white), you should be in 1/3 or 2/4. (Both white, or both blue.)


----------



## Coldplayer

corsair vengeance c9 1600mhz..rated at 9-9-9-24 at 1.5v...im using it at 1.55v atm but still not stable


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Coldplayer*


corsair vengeance c9 1600mhz..rated at 9-9-9-24 at 1.5v...im using it at 1.55v atm but still not stable


Try at 8-8-8-24-1T or 2T with 1.65V

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Is it running at 1600? If so, try lowering to 1333, and keep the 9-9-9-24 timings, with 2T command rate, on 1.65 volts. If it won't run that, then try some other RAM.


----------



## Coldplayer

stock is 1.5v is it safe to use at 1.65?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I believe the Vengeance line is using the same chips as Gskill Ripjaws X, which are safe at that voltage according to Gskill. You could technically ask Corsair what their official stance is, but I very highly doubt 1.65 is going to do any damage. 1.9 volts is a different story...although I had some DDR3 a while ago that ran on such voltage.


----------



## blackalphabet

will this board do SLI , with a driver hack ? or can it only do CrossfireX ?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackalphabet;14258047*
> will this board do SLI , with a driver hack ? or can it only do CrossfireX ?


Support crossfire oficially, but you can use the hack for do SLI without problems.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;14258309*
> Support crossfire oficially, but you can use the hack for do SLI without problems.
> 
> Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


does the hack for SLI on this motherboard work ?

does anyone have any experiences with that?


----------



## max1001

I have already tried rocketraid 2720 and LSI MegaRAID 9240-8i. They both had problem with this card. I contacted support for both company and they just said it is not compatible.
Any there any card confirm to work with this board. I need 8 sas/sata3 6.0gb/s. I have already purchased 6 Hitachi 3 TB 7k3000.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackalphabet;14258986*
> does the hack for SLI on this motherboard work ?
> 
> does anyone have any experiences with that?


Check the thread for the hack SLI, there you can find many info. I saw an user use the hack for run two 460 but i don't remember the user's name.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackalphabet;14258986*
> does the hack for SLI on this motherboard work ?
> 
> does anyone have any experiences with that?


Yes, the patch works. with the newest 275.33 drivers.









http://www.overclock.net/nvidia/670810-howto-sli-non-sli-motherboard-gtx5xx.html


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldplayer;14252314*
> corsair vengeance c9 1600mhz..rated at 9-9-9-24 at 1.5v...im using it at 1.55v atm but still not stable


I recommend to use 1 & 2 dimm. Gigabyte recommends to use 3 & 4 dimm. For me just doesn't work out at all. Pls give a try at 1 and 2 if you haven't done it yet. Should work just fine with 1T and lower volt. leave everything on auto at the beginning, then adjust the voltage and 1T timing.


----------



## consumer

So I've been offered a 890FXA-UD5 ver 2.0, it's used, is there any chance we are going to get a bios update to allow bulldozer am3+ chips to play with?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *consumer;14264604*
> So I've been offered a 890FXA-UD5 ver 2.0, it's used, is there any chance we are going to get a bios update to allow bulldozer am3+ chips to play with?


None, the problems isn't only BIOS the pin out's socket configuration is different.


----------



## consumer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;14264675*
> None, the problems isn't only BIOS the pin out's socket configuration is different.


So whats a fair price knowing it's dead technology and it's used? $50?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackalphabet;14258986*
> does the hack for SLI on this motherboard work ?
> 
> does anyone have any experiences with that?


This info has been covered in this thread. Searching this thread will probably help you find the answers faster than waiting on some of us to regurgitate answers repeatedly for newcomers.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *consumer;14265858*
> So whats a fair price knowing it's dead technology and it's used? $50?


Maybe for us is dead tech, but some people still want AM3 and maybe you can ask for more that $50

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## Blitz6804

Maybe fidof650 can add that to the FAQs?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hypothetical addition*
> *Q:* Can I use Bulldozer with my UD5/UD7?
> *A:* That depends. Gigabyte has released an F5E beta BIOS for the UD7 (Rev 2.x) that purports to "Add AM3+ CPU support." They have stated that UD5 Rev 2.x and 3.0 will never have such a BIOS released. Lastly, UD5 Rev 3.1 has an AM3+ socket, but it currently has the same version of BIOS as the 3.0. Gigabyte informs all users to purchase a 990FX board instead, so we are all left waiting and hoping.
> *Q:* Can I use a 3TB hard drive with my UD5/UD7?
> *A:* Most likely not. Only the UD5 Rev 3.x supports it, and only with BIOS FC or newer. UD5 Rev 2.x and UD7 Rev 2.x lack support.


Know what I wonder? Where are BIOS F7, F8, F9, and FA? Why did Rev 3.0 skip to FB? (Which would be F11 in decimal rather than hexadecimal.) Why are they refusing to release any new BIOSes for the Rev 2.x boards?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14269204*
> Maybe fidof650 can add that to the FAQs?
> 
> Know what I wonder? Where are BIOS F7, F8, F9, and FA? Why did Rev 3.0 skip to FB? (Which would be F11 in decimal rather than hexadecimal.) Why are they refusing to release any new BIOSes for the Rev 2.x boards?


My thoughts are known on this


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;14269277*
> My thoughts are known on this


Asus boards if i remember

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;14269308*
> Asus boards if i remember
> 
> Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


To a point, yes. I went there after having a 2.0 UD5, and GB dumped support of it. That, and the fabled history I've had with the board..no thank you GB...you can go suck on a dead man's pipe.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;14269334*
> To a point, yes. I went there after having a 2.0 UD5, and GB dumped support of it. That, and the fabled history I've had with the board..no thank you GB...you can go suck on a dead man's pipe.


Yeah, i'm keeping my current ud5 revt2.0 for the old times, while a new msi with 990FX chipset give me a lot of options and more voltage adjust that gigabyte does

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;14264675*
> None, the problems isn't only BIOS the pin out's socket configuration is different.


Not so, am3+ has more pin holes but bd doesn't use them all, even current x6s don't use all the pinholes in am3. Look:










Crosshair formula iv on the left, ud5 rev2.0 on the right, am3 socket iv is bd compatible with a bios update:

http://event.asus.com/2011/mb/AM3_PLUS_Ready/

So why can't gigabyte do it?


----------



## Blitz6804

They do not want to. And technically speaking, AM3+ IS more pins. The AM3 socket is 938 pins, the AM3+ socket is 939 pins. That early BD procs will not have the one pin where it would make it incapable of putting it into an AM3 socket is irrelevant, as Gigabyte has stated time and again that our only option is to replace our boards. Believe me, I will... with someone else's.


----------



## pondermotive

Surely they must realise this is a great way to alienate there current user base.

Is there a good contact to bombard with annoyed messages or do you think anyone in the community has the skill/will be bothered to code a bios update?


----------



## consumer

thats the one thing holding me back buying gigabyte, lack of support.


----------



## saint19

AFAIK Asus built the CH IV with all the 940 pins working, even, when AM3 only use 938 of those. AM3+ comes with full 940 pins and can work on CH IV lines (not all CH IV) because all pins works. That's the reason.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


AFAIK Asus built the CH IV with all the 940 pins working, even, when AM3 only use 938 of those. AM3+ comes with full 940 pins and can work on CH IV lines (not all CH IV) because all pins works. That's the reason.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk



Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


AFAIK Asus built the CH IV with all the 940 pins working, even, when AM3 only use 938 of those. AM3+ comes with full 940 pins and can work on CH IV lines (not all CH IV) because all pins works. That's the reason.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


AM3 on the right am3+ on the left, the lower left notch on AM3+ only covers 1 pin:










All the notches on the formula iv cover 2 pinholes.


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


They do not want to. And technically speaking, AM3+ IS more pins. The AM3 socket is 938 pins, the AM3+ socket is 939 pins. That early BD procs will not have the one pin where it would make it incapable of putting it into an AM3 socket is irrelevant, as Gigabyte has stated time and again that our only option is to replace our boards. Believe me, I will... with someone else's.










this is what gets me rather confused though about gigabyte. They first said it's impossible for the am3 boards to get a bios update because of the physical layout. But then, some of the boards DOES get a bios update (890FX-UD7 rev 2.x, 890GPA-UD3H rev 2.x, 880GMA-UD2H rev 2.x, GA-880GA-UD3H rev 2.x) which support am3+.

I figure those are the newest boards they released, but they aren't, they r all released in april 2010. The more i think about this, the more i think that gigabyte either, cheaped out on all the 890fx-ud5 boards, or.. they r purposedly gouging it's user base. It just seems so strange how the lower end models gets an update.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


this is what gets me rather confused though about gigabyte. They first said it's impossible for the am3 boards to get a bios update because of the physical layout. But then, some of the boards DOES get a bios update (890FX-UD7 rev 2.x, 890GPA-UD3H rev 2.x, 880GMA-UD2H rev 2.x, GA-880GA-UD3H rev 2.x) which support am3+.

I figure those are the newest boards they released, but they aren't, they r all released in april 2010. The more i think about this, the more i think that gigabyte either, cheaped out on all the 890fx-ud5 boards, or.. they r purposedly gouging it's user base. It just seems so strange how the lower end models gets an update.


Yeah, pretty much all the other major models are getting the update, but the UD5 required 3 more hardware revisions before they said it would support AM3+. It's signs of a bad design, in my opinion, and this was one of their best selling boards, which makes even less sense. What particularly bothers me is how Gigabyte has not created a "step up" program to replace our single-upgrade boards with something better, especially the 2.0 boards, which I think are the buggiest. What gives? These boards aren't cheap, and they don't want to offer an upgrade path, even with a little cost to us?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Yeah, pretty much all the other major models are getting the update, but the UD5 required 3 more hardware revisions before they said it would support AM3+. It's signs of a bad design, in my opinion, and this was one of their best selling boards, which makes even less sense. What particularly bothers me is how Gigabyte has not created a "step up" program to replace our single-upgrade boards with something better, especially the 2.0 boards, which I think are the buggiest. What gives? These boards aren't cheap, and they don't want to offer an upgrade path, even with a little cost to us?


Business man, just business. I was waiting the same as you with Gigabyte, but looks like the customer care isn't very important for them.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Business man, just business. I was waiting the same as you with Gigabyte, but looks like the customer care isn't very important for them.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


It could also be cultural, or an attempt to avoid admitting fault and save face, but I agree that the customer doesn't seem very important in our cases. Such is life, but Gigabyte went to my list of non-buys because of this type of move. Heck, it makes MSI's customer care look good.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


It could also be cultural, or an attempt to avoid admitting fault and save face, but I agree that the customer doesn't seem very important in our cases. Such is life, but Gigabyte went to my list of non-buys because of this type of move. Heck, it makes MSI's customer care look good.


Agree, my 990FX mobo is MSI and the support is good, even, when the mobo was free.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Agree, my 990FX mobo is MSI and the support is good, even, when the mobo was free.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


Sadly, my last MSI experience left a bad taste. The 790FX-GD70 was a great overclocking board, except it had a stuck BIOS, and I had to send it back, just after 3 months. I waited over a month to receive it. 3 months after that, the VRM blew up, blistering the board, right after I dropped a Thuban in it, despite it drawing less power than the C2 965 the board previously held. I contact MSI about it, and they were slow to respond (took about a week), and offered no help with shipping. With insurance, and before I found the UPS store, it was $30 per RMA, and I'd had to pay it once already. UPS dropped about $6 off the price by contrast.

Gigabyte said my board was fine, when it wasn't, but did pick up the shipping. Their utter lack of updating on this board, or admitting it might have memory problems is why I say MSI is better...if the heatsink on the GD70 had touched the VRM, I would likely be using the board to this day. I never had memory issues with it, or stability problems. The stuck BIOS happened once, and never again.

Overall, I still think the RMA process should be at the maker's cost, because...it's their fault in most cases, and due to defects. That would probably result in better products, too. Even if the cost were higher, I'd rather pay $30 more for a motherboard that I didn't have to send back even once, because it was reliable, instead of the products coming to market now.

I'll stick to Asus..the last brand I've had the least problems with.


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


It could also be cultural, or an attempt to avoid admitting fault and save face, but I agree that the customer doesn't seem very important in our cases. Such is life, but Gigabyte went to my list of non-buys because of this type of move. Heck, it makes MSI's customer care look good.


technically though, there is no reason for it to be in the never buy section yet. I'm giving them until when BD is released (sept 6th now i heard.. geez). But honestly, i really doubt they will even release an update for our mobo.

One thing i don't get is... for the bios' they did release, they always remove the core unlocking feature.. i find that so weird..


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


technically though, there is no reason for it to be in the never buy section yet. I'm giving them until when BD is released (sept 6th now i heard.. geez). But honestly, i really doubt they will even release an update for our mobo.

One thing i don't get is... for the bios' they did release, they always remove the core unlocking feature.. i find that so weird..



I kind of put them in mental purgatory just for arguing with me on the phone about the motherboard issues, not to mention they put the wrong BIOS version on, and refused to admit a mistake. That was customer service. Then I was transferred to the actual tech, who finally admitted they only tested the CPU and memory sub-systems using different memory than I had specified having a problem with. They also didn't test the SATA ports, which were failing. They told me multiple times it was the memory, and not the board, and wanted me to test every stick, individually. When all of them passed, after 4 days of straight testing, they refused to admit the board had a problem.

This was after they sent the same board back to me that I sent them initially, after having performed all the tests previously. On top of that, they said they were sending me a "brand new" motherboard. I quote that, and asked if it was going to be refurb in any way, and they said no. BULL. They sent me an obviously refurb'd board.

The entire time I've fought with this board to get the RAM stable. It was entirely unpredictable, regardless of speed. At the time I had it, and the Asus board in my sig rig...never had a failure on the Asus. The UD5 couldn't run RAM as fast as, or on a lower voltage, that the Asus could. Performance was also sluggish in the memory dept.

All that, combined with a crappy BIOS which only allows enabling spread spectrum for "advanced" settings (which have to be enabled), severe problems with getting the 2nd BIOS chip to boot instead of the primary, and little things like screwed up voltage settings due to turbo mode, no half-multipliers, and no BIOS updates to fix it since November of last year, makes me put Gigabyte on a DNB list. My entire group of local friends consisted of GB fans...they have all looked away from GB as well, due to the sheer amount of BS involved in my situation.

EDIT: I made a nice, long, run-on sentence.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Sadly, my last MSI experience left a bad taste. The 790FX-GD70 was a great overclocking board, except it had a stuck BIOS, and I had to send it back, just after 3 months. I waited over a month to receive it. 3 months after that, the VRM blew up, blistering the board, right after I dropped a Thuban in it, despite it drawing less power than the C2 965 the board previously held. I contact MSI about it, and they were slow to respond (took about a week), and offered no help with shipping. With insurance, and before I found the UPS store, it was $30 per RMA, and I'd had to pay it once already. UPS dropped about $6 off the price by contrast.

Gigabyte said my board was fine, when it wasn't, but did pick up the shipping. Their utter lack of updating on this board, or admitting it might have memory problems is why I say MSI is better...if the heatsink on the GD70 had touched the VRM, I would likely be using the board to this day. I never had memory issues with it, or stability problems. The stuck BIOS happened once, and never again.

Overall, I still think the RMA process should be at the maker's cost, because...it's their fault in most cases, and due to defects. That would probably result in better products, too. Even if the cost were higher, I'd rather pay $30 more for a motherboard that I didn't have to send back even once, because it was reliable, instead of the products coming to market now.

I'll stick to Asus..the last brand I've had the least problems with.


I had not the 1st ASUS mobo, but i'm saving money for the the CH V and test it.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## Blitz6804

The only thing I can think of... all of the mainstream and budget boards were updated, the enthusiast boards were not. Maybe Gigabyte figures that since enthusiasts likely want the latest and greatest board (990FX), most would already dump the board, and few people would be helped by the BIOS update.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


The only thing I can think of... all of the mainstream and budget boards were updated, the enthusiast boards were not. Maybe Gigabyte figures that since enthusiasts likely want the latest and greatest board (990FX), most would already dump the board, and few people would be helped by the BIOS update.


Good point there, all we already have at least one 990FX mobo.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


The only thing I can think of... all of the mainstream and budget boards were updated, the enthusiast boards were not. Maybe Gigabyte figures that since enthusiasts likely want the latest and greatest board (990FX), most would already dump the board, and few people would be helped by the BIOS update.


again.. this is what i think or.. they really can't make a bios update because they cheaped out on the design in the rev 2 boards...


----------



## Blitz6804

Makes you wonder what was so horribly wrong with the Rev 1.x boards that they were never released to the public?









Not to mention that after 6 BIOSes, they STILL do not properly use CnQ. I cannot speak about the Rev 3.x boards, but if I had to guess, they do not work right either.


----------



## incurablegeek

Disclaimers:

1) I have not read through the entire thread
2) I have always purchase AMD but mistakenly bought into the 2 oz. of copper advertising by Gigabyte.
3) This is a last ditch effort before I ditch this UD5

I have been building computers for myself and many others since 1991, so wiring them up, being mindful of static, etc. is nothing new to me. Not trying to be a smart guy here just giving some background.

I have a UD3 which never gave me any problems.

So I purchased a UD5 - which never beeped, posted or made any animal sounds out of the box. So I RMA'd it. I reinstalled the motherboard and the least number of components I needed to get into the BIOS.

Never got into the BIOS. No warning beeps, no post, no nothing. *Open the Optical Drive bay and it closes immediately.*

My conclusions:

1) GB probably designs great boards but, as with other products, they enjoy all the "cheapness" of being made in China (yeh, I can say that. I lived there!)

2) The UD5 board was probably defective from the get-go and when I RMA'd it, all GB did was repackage it and send it back to me with limited testing or no testing at all.

Aside from playing RMA-round-the-Rosy for the rest of my natural life, is there anything I can do to save it? I was kind of hoping that the optical drive bay (sata) opening and closing might tell someone with more knowledge than I at least something.

And for what it's worth, I AM NOT trashing GB. Trust me. I have bought defective crap from just about all respected mfrs.


----------



## pondermotive

If I had read the latest comments in this thread I would have steered clear of the board, but I can honestly say I have had no major problems. No stability issues with my hardware and very overclocking friendly, CnQ works seems to work fine even when ocing with the fsb.Still peeved about bd support but maybe the situation will change when bd is actually released (be it a bios update or cheap upgrade option from gb).


----------



## ht_addict

Has anyone tried altering the UD7(F5E Bios) to work on the UD5? I tried flashing it but it comes up with a checksum error.


----------



## hesho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14284456*
> Makes you wonder what was so horribly wrong with the Rev 1.x boards that they were never released to the public?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to mention that after 6 BIOSes, they STILL do not properly use CnQ. I cannot speak about the Rev 3.x boards, but if I had to guess, they do not work right either.


u know.. i never thought about a rev 1 mobo. Hmmmm... now that u mention it... maybe it really is badly designed then









a bit curious what u mean by CnQ not working. Mine works fine, it's constantly switching around its' speed 1040mhz, 2080mhz and 3510mhz...

@ incurablegeek

it sounds like the board is being shorted somewhere, that would be the first thing i would look at anyway (besides psu).

honestly though, the mobo isn't a bad mobo, but the longevity of it just isn't what most ppl expected it to be. I planned on getting a BD upgrade too with this but, guess not now :/


----------



## incurablegeek

For what it's worth, please find attached my response to Gigabyte upon receiving the board I RMA'd. It will have to suffice as my "pound of flesh".

Please understand that I am bitter at this enormous loss of time and money. In no way do I wish to hurt anybody on this forum. And my experience may be just that: My Experience.

However, Gigabyte had their chance to "do the right thing". Instead, they chose to Bull$hit Me! And for those of you who don't know me: I am a very easy-going guy who is quick to make a joke - especially one about myself.

Just don't f'ing lie to me or try to cheat me. Then I become Mr.









(Thus endeth my vent for the day.







)


----------



## Blitz6804

Check out what voltage it gives your chip on the 4x multi, hesho. My DFI would drop from 1.325 V to 0.950 V, whereas this board only drops to 1.225 V. 1.225 V is insane for 800 MHz.


----------



## Tyreal

The Gigabyte 990fx UD5/7 Looked nice, i was going to get the UD7, but after seeing all "This" i am simply avoiding these revisions/models. Straight up, not buying Gigabyte.


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:



Straight up, not buying Gigabyte.


I sure don't wish to poison the well here, at least any more than I already have. It's just that the first time I stray from ASUS motherboards I get punished.

With that said, and I do try to be honest, I just purchased the next iteration of the ASUS Crosshair IV Formula which is, quite logically, the Crosshair V Formula. The Crosshair IV is nothing short of wonderful; But if the Crosshair V turns out to be a dog (kinda like the Crosshair IV *Extreme* was), I will surely post that info on this forum. Btw, I also have the somewhat older ASUS M4A79-Deluxe. All these ASUS boards overclock nicely - even for the complete noob.

Right now, with so much manufacturing migrating to Mainland China, there are just too many variables, so we all have to stick together and give each other the best advice we can.

Now, if anyone thinks I'm down on Mainland China, I am not. The people there are just fabulous. Business there can only be described, however, as "_interesting_". Examples:

1) It's not uncommon for manufacturers to repackage dead batteries and sell them as new!

2) One day my girl was walking down the street in ShenYang with me and decided to purchase some peanuts from a local vendor. Well, she did BUT there was nothing inside them! That's right. Someone had painstakingly re-assembled the empty shells and sold them as fresh peanuts!

However, empty peanut shells and dead batteries are one thing. Computer boards and components that don't work - out of the box - are quite another. And ultimately it's the manufacturer's fault. Lose your QC and lose your rep!


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *incurablegeek*


2) One day my girl was walking down the street in ShenYang with me and decided to purchase some peanuts from a local vendor. Well, she did BUT there was nothing inside them! That's right. Someone had painstakingly re-assembled the empty shells and sold them as fresh peanuts!


----------



## pali

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


does the hack for SLI on this motherboard work ?

does anyone have any experiences with that?


It works perfectly. Been using it since it came out. Make sure you run version 1.5 of the hack if you are using the newest nvidia drivers for best results. If using older drivers, ie >6 months, use version 1.0 final. Hope this helps!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Check out what voltage it gives your chip on the 4x multi, hesho. My DFI would drop from 1.325 V to 0.950 V, whereas this board only drops to 1.225 V. 1.225 V is insane for 800 MHz.


On my X4 using F6 bios voltage drops by 0.35 when it lowers the multi to 4x, 0.2 when down to 10.5x.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Check out what voltage it gives your chip on the 4x multi, hesho. My DFI would drop from 1.325 V to 0.950 V, whereas this board only drops to 1.225 V. 1.225 V is insane for 800 MHz.


Yes, mine did that, too, along with going to 1.425 volts when at 3.2 Ghz on the 1090T, and staying there. No middle voltage of 1.325 happened. Yeah, one has to wonder how badly the board was designed in order for the 1.0 to not even reach the public, and the 2.0 to be so quickly replaced.

For what it's worth, this board has functioned much better with a Deneb Phenom2 in it for the girlfriend, although C&Q still won't dip the voltage much. I run it under spec by .1 volts anyway (making it 1.325) @ stock 965 speeds.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pondermotive*


On my X4 using F6 bios voltage drops by 0.35 when it lowers the multi to 4x, 0.2 when down to 10.5x.


I had real problems with F6 on the girlfriend's quad core. Reverting to F3 solved it. Mainly it would take a very long time to post (minimum 30 seconds), and run dog slow. Resetting the BIOS didn't change anything, it had to be dropped back to F3. Curiously, it ran fine for a couple days, and then suddenly refused to do it anymore. As Blitz pointed out, F6 is supposed to be a hex core only BIOS, and I have to agree.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *incurablegeek*


For what it's worth, please find attached my response to Gigabyte upon receiving the board I RMA'd. It will have to suffice as my "pound of flesh".

Please understand that I am bitter at this enormous loss of time and money. In no way do I wish to hurt anybody on this forum. And my experience may be just that: My Experience.

However, Gigabyte had their chance to "do the right thing". Instead, they chose to Bull$hit Me! And for those of you who don't know me: I am a very easy-going guy who is quick to make a joke - especially one about myself.

Just don't f'ing lie to me or try to cheat me. Then I become Mr.









(Thus endeth my vent for the day.







)


I'm in the US, and had problems with their US arm not doing proper testing, although my problems were SATA port based. The board would lock up on detecting hard drives. Assuming they were bad, I went through and disconnected everything. The board was still trying to detect drives. I let GB know all of this, and they never tested for it. The day they sent the board back I called them, and let them know they were taking the defective board back. It's all been mentioned in this thread. It took some months to finally get a working board, and it never worked right then, although nothing was inherently wrong compared to others. It's just a faulty design. This was my first GB board, and I also bought the UD3H around the same time; that board has yet to fail in the slightest in a different build for another family member. My Asus board has also been good.

I believe this thread has become a bit damaging for GB's reputation, and especially damning to the board itself. You mention their manufacturing moving from Taiwan to China....I don't think it's the capability so much as the ethics of the different cultures as I understand it, although I'm no expert on it in the least.

And yes, letting people know about these boards, and the complete lack of support is the best thing we can do, and I believe it's our right to do it, to protect others from falling into the same snare we did. Is GB a bad company? Probably not. But the treatment I received from them was aggravating and rude, especially when they argue with me and their facts are outright wrong.

Little fact for you, maybe it's different in the US, but GB's statement for their QVL says that it's just a reference, and does not mean the memory stated will work with the board. This is per a phone conversation I had with GB tech support. I would be surprised if they replace this board in a year and a half when the warranty is close to running out.

Bah, enough of my rants. Resuming my normal work day.


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Check out what voltage it gives your chip on the 4x multi, hesho. My DFI would drop from 1.325 V to 0.950 V, whereas this board only drops to 1.225 V. 1.225 V is insane for 800 MHz.


3.5ghz - 1.472v
2ghz - 1.264v
1ghz - 1.168v

taken from cpuid. I don't think it's that bad.


----------



## incurablegeek

UnexplodedCow,

Thank you so very much for that very detailed post regarding your "exploits" with Gigabyte (Total Lack of) Support, especially your suspicion that they never even tested the board upon return. I don't claim to be the most knowledgeable person when it comes to hardware, but I have custom built, repaired and tested hundreds of computers. So I don't really appreciate being treated like an ignorant [email protected]! And that is exactly how they treated me!

All we can do, as you said, is just speak the truth about this company and, at least in the case of the UD5 board, their shoddy rushed-to-market products.

With regard to my UD5, hell I would have been glad if it gave me some indication of a problem via beeps or something. This sucker right out of the box and right back from RMA just kind of thumbed its nose at me and said, "Now What!"


----------



## hesho

^^

i really wish motherboard makers would include a speaker built onto the mobo. Would help so much... and the fact that i almost always forget to plug the case speaker in too lol.


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


I had real problems with F6 on the girlfriend's quad core. Reverting to F3 solved it. Mainly it would take a very long time to post (minimum 30 seconds), and run dog slow. Resetting the BIOS didn't change anything, it had to be dropped back to F3. Curiously, it ran fine for a couple days, and then suddenly refused to do it anymore. As Blitz pointed out, F6 is supposed to be a hex core only BIOS, and I have to agree.


I haven't had any stability or boot time problems for a month and half now, it came with F6 and I won't flash unless necessary, i'll update the thread if issues arise.

I did recently change the fan setup so that a couple of case fans are hooked up to the sys fan headers, when powered on from sleep mode the emergency speaker comes on for a minute, by checking in hwmon it was reading 0rpm on the sys fan, even though they had actually spun up so i have just disabled the alarm in the bios. When hwmon is left running it does pick up some erratic maximums on the temps and fan rpms.


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:



i really wish motherboard makers would include a speaker built onto the mobo. Would help so much... and the fact that i almost always forget to plug the case speaker in too lol.


At the risk of looking really, really stupid, I found this picture of an item I've been ignoring and thought you might be interested.

The darned thing IS a mini-speaker! If you knew about this, and I'm sure you did, well then - yet again - the only one who learned anything here would be me.

If so, thanks for pointing up the obvious!


----------



## stomped

nice reading on what kind of customer support they have, thats like the main thing for me to choose what kind of store i shop at. That beeing said and after hearing what you guys have said about gb support i probably wont buy another board from them again, BUT i have to say my ud7 have been working flawlessly. im even running the new corsair 3 ssd without any problems since i got it, other then the fact that i had to change the sata cable to a sertified cable when i one day woke up to a black screen saying "no boot disk found". but i havent upgraded my bios or anything, its like it came out of the box so im using F2, but i also have that mentality, "if it aint broke, dont fix it." so many times have i updated some drivers or something, just to have it make my system unstable,crash and give me pain in general.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *incurablegeek*


At the risk of looking really, really stupid, I found this picture of an item I've been ignoring and thought you might be interested.

The darned thing IS a mini-speaker! If you knew about this, and I'm sure you did, well then - yet again - the only one who learned anything here would be me.

If so, thanks for pointing up the obvious!











NZXT Beta cases come with these mini speakers only, which is a good idea, I think. I don't know why more case companies don't adopt this approach.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


3.5ghz - 1.472v
2ghz - 1.264v
1ghz - 1.168v

taken from cpuid. I don't think it's that bad.


Stock 3.2 Ghz should be 1.325v. 1.425 is for turbo mode only. 1.35 Ghz should not require 1.472 volts (which the BIOS is bumping to 1.475, but reading low).

@ 2Ghz, the chip can run on 1.1 volts without issue. I'm able to do 3.75 Ghz on 1.325 volts with my 1090T 24/7. 1Ghz (using a higher base clock..or whatever you want to call it), should be under 1 volt because the chips will do it no problem. These boards are dumping voltage into the chips. Yes, 1.475 is too high for turbo mode according to AMD. However, GB didn't offer a turbo mode voltage setting, which would make more sense. To avoid over-volting that much, just turn off turbo mode, and have the CPU run @ 3.6 Ghz. Chances are you'll do it just fine on 1.325 volts. That was one of the most annoying things on these boards, as the CPU will really start dumping heat after 1.375 volts, and by 1.475, it's emitting many more watts of heat, which is waste. Considering I try to run on the edge of overclocked and efficient, I don't like this. Check out AMD's spec on these chips, though, and you'll see what Blitz and I mean when we've said this board overvolts.


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:



nice reading on what kind of customer support they have, thats like the main thing for me to choose what kind of store i shop at. That beeing said and after hearing what you guys have said about gb support i probably wont buy another board from them again, BUT i have to say my ud7 have been working flawlessly.


Hey Stomped, please understand that I have no axe to grind here and, from what some of my friends on OCN have said via PM, I have been fairly restrained in my comments about Gigabyte boards.

With regard to your UD7 functioning nicely, I must say, as I believe I did, that I had the same experience with my UD3. On that basis I purchased the UD5 - and the rest is history.

However, what is important and you point nicely to the crux of the problem, is Support - or the lack thereof. That's what really matters.

For what it's worth, I have had exceptionally positive experiences with support from the following:

1) Corsair
2) ASUS
3) AMD
4) Amazon.com

True: I have purchased a lot of, a whole obscene lot of, computer equipment over the years. Much of that equipment has been very good and very trouble free. I only list the above mfrs. because I have seen them stand behind their products and services.

Two Trends over the years (22 years):

1) HP no longer manufacturers quality products - with the possible exception of (and who uses them?) its ink-jet printers. I used to _swear by_ HP; Now I swear _at them_. My Xerox MultiFunction Printer, on the other hand, is bulletproof and fail-safe - kinda like HP used to be.

2) You cannot trust the very fine Taiwanese manufacturers blindly any more. For cost of manufacturing savings, they have moved their factories to China.

So all the manufacturers, even the really good ones, are capable of pushing out garbage. It's just how they tech-support/back up their products that counts. Remember, at least in the U.S., only 3 things matter in a purchasing decision: Price, price, price. And the manufacturers, regardless of nationality hear that Battle Cry.

One more factor: No matter how well a manufacturer supports its products and accepts RMA's of defective products, just how much time do you have to waste on RMA'ing?


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


NZXT Beta cases come with these mini speakers only, which is a good idea, I think. I don't know why more case companies don't adopt this approach.


ya, i got one with my haf 932 as well, but i just wish they came with the mobo instead.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Stock 3.2 Ghz should be 1.325v. 1.425 is for turbo mode only. 1.35 Ghz should not require 1.472 volts (which the BIOS is bumping to 1.475, but reading low).

@ 2Ghz, the chip can run on 1.1 volts without issue. I'm able to do 3.75 Ghz on 1.325 volts with my 1090T 24/7. 1Ghz (using a higher base clock..or whatever you want to call it), should be under 1 volt because the chips will do it no problem. These boards are dumping voltage into the chips. Yes, 1.475 is too high for turbo mode according to AMD. However, GB didn't offer a turbo mode voltage setting, which would make more sense. To avoid over-volting that much, just turn off turbo mode, and have the CPU run @ 3.6 Ghz. Chances are you'll do it just fine on 1.325 volts. That was one of the most annoying things on these boards, as the CPU will really start dumping heat after 1.375 volts, and by 1.475, it's emitting many more watts of heat, which is waste. Considering I try to run on the edge of overclocked and efficient, I don't like this. Check out AMD's spec on these chips, though, and you'll see what Blitz and I mean when we've said this board overvolts.


u have to remember that i'm on a c2 deneb chip. I do not have a thuban which is why my voltage is so high. Also remember too is that i have unlocked cpu as well. There's no way in hell my chip will be stable at 1.325v. While i do admit, when it's at 2ghz, the voltage is high, i honestly do not see it very often. Even when i watch movies, it stays at 1ghz oddly.

I'm guessing it's a thuban thing because of the turbo mode which is why you r getting so much volts? Also, the way i see it, it's still less voltage then when CnQ is not on so all the better i think.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


u have to remember that i'm on a c2 deneb chip. I do not have a thuban which is why my voltage is so high. Also remember too is that i have unlocked cpu as well. There's no way in hell my chip will be stable at 1.325v. While i do admit, when it's at 2ghz, the voltage is high, i honestly do not see it very often. Even when i watch movies, it stays at 1ghz oddly.

I'm guessing it's a thuban thing because of the turbo mode which is why you r getting so much volts? Also, the way i see it, it's still less voltage then when CnQ is not on so all the better i think.


Not really, because I currently have the girlfriend using the board with a C2 965. Stock voltage for those is 1.425, and those things are 140 watt models. My old board wanted to feed 1.425, but went higher on F6. Reverted to F3, and then lowered the voltage futher to 1.325, running @ stock clocks, and perfectly stable. Again, those volts are not correct.


----------



## Kiken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14200494*
> Gigabyte's official line is: unless you're using a CPU that requires the F5 BIOS or newer, do not use it. (1075T or 1100T, for example.)
> 
> You should be able to install Windows 7 without needing any RAID driver discs, as Windows is supposed to natively support it.


Well I finally solved the problem changing the version of windows 7 I was using (installed a SP1), although I had to use the drivers on a pendrive.

Sadly yesterday I started having stability problems in the form of BOSDs. During this time (two weeks) I had 2 of them while playing world of warcraft but I didn't worried... last night i had like 5 of them, and two where during windows startup so it got me worried...

I installed OCCT to test the system stability and I got another one so then I decided to test the ram 'cause along with the raid 0 it came 4gb of ram to a total of 8gb (4x2gb). Now I'm at work but the moment I got up (I left the test running all night) the Memtest had done 3 whole test with 0 errors so now I'm worried that the raid 0 could be the issue.

On the other side I updated my bios to F6 before the OS installation... Anyone can give me some heads up on what to do next?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I would jump back to F3 revision personally. My experiences with a Deneb X4 chip on F6 were not good, unstable, and simply put, problematic. Rolling to F3 literally solved all the issues (Windows crashing, slow POSTing, going to Windows incorrect shutdown screen on startup, crashing programs, etc.). Heck, most of the Thuban users seem to run F3 as well. I ran F6 when I had the board with a Thuban as it ran best for me, but was far from the case with the 965 Deneb. Try reverting, and then see how things are.


----------



## Kiken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;14338132*
> I would jump back to F3 revision personally. My experiences with a Deneb X4 chip on F6 were not good, unstable, and simply put, problematic. Rolling to F3 literally solved all the issues (Windows crashing, slow POSTing, going to Windows incorrect shutdown screen on startup, crashing programs, etc.). Heck, most of the Thuban users seem to run F3 as well. I ran F6 when I had the board with a Thuban as it ran best for me, but was far from the case with the 965 Deneb. Try reverting, and then see how things are.


Ok I'm gonna try that then, this means that I'm gonna lose my raid?

Well i'm also managing the posibility to upgrade the CPU to a AMD Phenon II X6 1090T Thuban, so whatever comes first i guess.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Very likely, yes :-/

Back up just in case, and give it a go. It's better to have to rebuild a RAID array than to keep dealing with potential data loss from a wonky BIOS.


----------



## Kiken

Ok, so I have to rebuild the Raid, also a first for me... I'll start reading then.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;14294960*
> 3.5ghz - 1.472v
> 2ghz - 1.264v
> 1ghz - 1.168v
> 
> taken from cpuid. I don't think it's that bad.


Do you have your BIOS set to 1.475 V? If so, at stock, you would be giving the 4x multipler 1.025 V. Better than the 1.225 V I experience, but still wrong. If not, you prove my point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;14324260*
> ya, i got one with my haf 932 as well, but i just wish they came with the mobo instead.


It is always nice when the motherboard has a speaker on the PCB; one less wire to deal with.


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiken;14338337*
> Ok I'm gonna try that then, this means that I'm gonna lose my raid?
> 
> Well i'm also managing the posibility to upgrade the CPU to a AMD Phenon II X6 1090T Thuban, so whatever comes first i guess.


F6 is fine, just need more tweak a bit. i got 12+ days uptime. With F6 needs a bit of extra voltage on cpu and NB.


----------



## Kiken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq;14345479*
> F6 is fine, just need more tweak a bit. i got 12+ days uptime. With F6 needs a bit of extra voltage on cpu and NB.


Well finally I did upgrade the CPU to a 1090T I was just testing (playing wow) and a few minutes ago I got a BSOD.

I'll post my bios settings so u can help me a bit...


----------



## siriq

Looks like AM3+ will die next year(Q1).


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq;14350798*
> Looks like AM3+ will die next year(Q1).


And you say that because?

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;14354140*
> And you say that because?
> 
> Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


Check out the news articles regarding AMD's 2012 roadmap. The bulldozer core itself seems to be what they're going to stick with, but new sockets might be out. I obviously don't know how valid these are, but some clarification would be welcome.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;14354183*
> Check out the news articles regarding AMD's 2012 roadmap. The bulldozer core itself seems to be what they're going to stick with, but new sockets might be out. I obviously don't know how valid these are, but some clarification would be welcome.


Ok, but check this.

http://news.mydrivers.com/1/200/200081_1.htm

AMD still have Bulldozer launch for Q1 2012 and lauch a new socket could be a problem for AMD, justt saying.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Yes, it does seem confusing, but the new socket (or whatever it really is) was supposed to be later in 2012. I wouldn't get my hopes up about anything...at this point I'm just hoping Bulldozer is the proverbial diamond AMD pulled out of its butt (even if that is a proverb). The wait has been fun since my big, water-cooled setup is just sitting, waiting on motherboard and CPU. Sandybridge is not whetting my appetite properly.

We'll see what the future holds. I know we all saw how it turned out for the UD5


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Yes, it does seem confusing, but the new socket (or whatever it really is) was supposed to be later in 2012. I wouldn't get my hopes up about anything...at this point I'm just hoping Bulldozer is the proverbial diamond AMD pulled out of its butt (even if that is a proverb). The wait has been fun since my big, water-cooled setup is just sitting, waiting on motherboard and CPU. Sandybridge is not whetting my appetite properly.

We'll see what the future holds. I know we all saw how it turned out for the UD5










Maybe for compit against IV...lol, the UD5...

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## ig0ru4

Hello. have 1 question. i have gigabyte 890fxa-ud5 rev 2.1.(am3) can i use future buldozzer(am3+) on it? please, help me


----------



## incurablegeek

Those of you who have been following my travails with Gigabyte Tech Support, or should I say the Lack of Tech Support, will be interested in their response to my latest complaint.

GB Tech Support:
Quote:


> Dear Customer,
> 
> The board had passed all test in our lab and there were no issue posting. Do you have an case speaker connected and are there any post beeps?
> Make sure that you have both the 24 pin and 8 pin 12v power connection connected to the board.
> - cpu along with heatsinkfan
> - single stick of memory
> - videocard
> 
> The above components are essential in order for the system to post.


My Response:
Quote:


> Please do me the favor of NOT talking to me like I am a raving idiot. This is nothing but a form letter spit-out response.
> 
> Read my letter and attend to the issue at hand: The UD5 is defective, either in design or in quality of manufacture.
> 
> Not even Dr. Kevorkian, God rest his soul, could fix this UD5.
> 
> And RMA it - AGAIN?
> 
> Why? So you can repackage it without testing and then just send it back to me - AS YOU DID BEFORE!
> 
> Please do contact me when you can do more than vomit out another form letter.


(Please find attached my initial letter outlining my ongoing problem with this UD5 board.)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ig0ru4;14355572*
> Hello. have 1 question. i have gigabyte 890fxa-ud5 rev 2.1.(am3) can i use future buldozzer(am3+) on it? please, help me


Welcome to the thread. Please search it to find your answer...it was, at most, 3 pages ago, and has been mentioned numerous times.

This fan club seems to have turned into more of a bashing club.


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:



This fan club seems to have turned into more of a bashing club.


Not so much bashing, my friend, as a provider of evidence. I, for one, don't _bash_. I provide take-it-or-leave-it empirical evidence in as balanced a fashion as possible.

If Gigabyte actually does something about my defective UD5 *this time* I will be the first to report it. As of now, they have chosen to ignore my appeals or just flat-out deceive me.

If you care to disagree with any of the printed correspondence between myself and Gigabyte, then I can only suggest you back up your accusations of bashing and buy my UD5 board from me. It's Never Been Used!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Bashing in a more indirect way







. Specifically, sharing our poor experiences with these boards. I will say that GB's support probably won't respond in a friendly manner to your responses. I was firm, but not accusing them of condescension, even though they were. My job duties require me to handle a lot of sensitive data, and help people who have no understanding of computers.

Still, from talking to their tech support, I know they run Prime, 3dMark Vantage, and a couple others I can't remember offhand. They loop them for 24 hours. If the board passes, they send it back. If there is anything to do with southbridge functionality, they do not test for it, per the tech at GB I spoke with.

We report to each other our experiences, and the idea spreads that this board is a stillborn, unsupported model...at least that's how I feel....at least I don't have to deal with it anymore.


----------



## ig0ru4

Guys, what do you think, would phenom II X6 1100t be good in the next 2-3 years? or it hasn't enought power.


----------



## Blitz6804

In *my* opinion, a 1090T does not have enough power. (Some of my games now cannot be maxed out, what will happen in a year or two?) Since both a 1090T and an 1100T are black editions, my answer would be "no."


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ig0ru4*


Guys, what do you think, would phenom II X6 1100t be good in the next 2-3 years? or it hasn't enought power.










They're quick for the everyday user for sure, but they are still limited a lot for games, I think. If games used more cores they would be fine, but that isn't how things are. However, I don't even see a Standby Bridge going for 2-3 years the way things are increasing. Wait for the newer chips: Bulldozer or Standby Bridge E.


----------



## ig0ru4

yes, i agree with you, but what games do you have problem with?(and in which resolution?)
p.s sorry for bad English


----------



## Blitz6804

Crysis at 1080p, Dx10, maxed out, 4xMSAA has a minimum FPS of around 50. 2xMSAA around 55.

Metro2033 at 1080p, Dx11, maxed out, 0xMSAA had a minimum FPS of around 30.

Mafia II demo at 1080p, Dx9, maxed out with PhysX on medium had a minimum FPS of around 50.

Whereas Battlefield: Bad Company 2 can run 1080p, Dx11, maxed out, 8xMSAA with a minimum FPS of around 75 FPS (125 FPS avg); DiRT2 under the exact same settings gets around 70 FPS (120 FPS avg).


----------



## Dognose

Good day,

First time poster here. I've been using the ud5 rev2 since last December. Finding this thread has been very helpful. Thanks to all of you posting here.

I don't guess that I will be able to join your club, I'm not overclocking, and as a Linux user I haven't found a version of CPU-Z that I can use. Anyone have any tips for a benchmark program for an openSUSE Linux user? Preferably one that can be installed from a repository?

Thanks


----------



## ig0ru4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14366406*
> Crysis at 1080p, Dx10, maxed out, 4xMSAA has a minimum FPS of around 50. 2xMSAA around 55.
> 
> Metro2033 at 1080p, Dx11, maxed out, 0xMSAA had a minimum FPS of around 30.
> 
> Mafia II demo at 1080p, Dx9, maxed out with PhysX on medium had a minimum FPS of around 50.
> 
> Whereas Battlefield: Bad Company 2 can run 1080p, Dx11, maxed out, 8xMSAA with a minimum FPS of around 75 FPS (125 FPS avg); DiRT2 under the exact same settings gets around 70 FPS (120 FPS avg).


and you want to say that phenom is bad?) you have very nice fps, and resolution is big. I think that on my 1280*1024 this pehenom will be nice


----------



## Dognose

Mnnn,

I don't know if this is usefull for your memory list, since OCZ is no longer in the memory business, but I first used 2 sets of OCZ DDR3 1333 2x2gb PC3 10666 OCZ3P1333LV4GK CL7 (4x2=8gb) on my board. I had bios F1 at the time. They ran at 7-7-7-20 with no problems, with ALL bios settings left at Auto except for memory voltage manually set at 1.65v. NOTE: I didn't run any benchmarks with this, just used my machine every day without problems.


----------



## Blitz6804

ig0ru4: The same GPUs on an Intel system (Skt 1366 i7) will output a good 15-20 FPS higher than my numbers. It is only some troublesome games that really heavily favor Intel though. For comparison, my minimum FPS in CoD4 is something ridiculous like 140 FPS. Average is more like 220.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ig0ru4;14367042*
> and you want to say that phenom is bad?) you have very nice fps, and resolution is big. I think that on my 1280*1024 this pehenom will be nice


That resolution places more strain on the CPU than 1920x1080 will. Increasing resolution in games will place higher strain on the video card, and less on the CPU. To that end, if you're running that resolution (by many standards is lower these days), the 1090T will be working harder, and feel like it is lower performance, particularly in games that are already below the 60 fps threshold, some of which were mentioned by Blitz.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ig0ru4;14365787*
> Guys, what do you think, would phenom II X6 1100t be good in the next 2-3 years? or it hasn't enought power.


Even SB isn't. Maybe we are to aficionated to upgrade our CPU very frequenly but a rig that can run for taht time is a server.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## incurablegeek

Although I never read Reader's Digest, I was sitting in a doctor's office waiting room today, and it was the only reading material available. In it was a very timely article about how unethical manufacturers and car dealers avoid backing up a product that is defective, yet still under warranty.

1) Blame the customer
2) String the customer along with "we can't find the problem, so there must be no problem". Eventually the customer wears out and gives up or the product is no longer in warranty.

The following is my latest correspondence from Gigabyte Tech Support (just received 7/27/11) regarding my UD5 board that via RMA is acquiring quite a lot of frequent flier miles.

You will note that both of the two ploys listed above are being employed here:
Quote:


> Dear Customer,
> 
> all board are tested prior to being shipped back from warranty service. Unfortunately we do not have your hardware available to verify so we are unable to verify the components which you are using. If you feel the board is the issue you can resubmit for another RMA request and have the board replace for you. With an replacement and if you are still encountering the same results you will need to start looking into your hardware.


Please allow me to quote John Keats here (somewhat paraphrased from _Ode on a Graecian Urn_)

Beauty is truth, and Truth is beauty.
And that is all ye need to know of life.


----------



## Blitz6804

If they are going to replace it (instead of trying to repair it), I fail to see the issue? Tell them send you a mailing label, they can have it.


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:


> Guys, what do you think, would phenom II X6 1100t be good in the next 2-3 years? or it hasn't enought power.


Response:
Quote:


> They're quick for the everyday user for sure, but they are still limited a lot for games, I think. If games used more cores they would be fine, but that isn't how things are. ...


I have the 1090T. I read a lot, perhaps too much. There is really no speed difference between the 1090T and the 1100T which would be worth the price difference. Basically, the 1100T was bait for those who wanted, but would not get, more - and for a bunch more money.

I don't play games (not smart enough, I guess







) so I can't comment on the need for more and more cores in that arena.

I use my computers for business and only two things have really, really impressed me in terms of providing increased speed.

1) Multicore Processors
2) SSD for OS and Programs

Best advice:

At this time in CPU history _especially_, wait a few months and see how things shake out. One can always wait for the absolute best, but right now with 3-dimensional cores, tri-gate logic, etc. it is the best advice one can give or receive. Usually the waiting game is for those who are afraid to make a decision.

Now it is just the wise thing to do.
Quote:


> I don't even see a Standby Bridge going for 2-3 years the way things are increasing. Wait for the newer chips: Bulldozer or Standby Bridge E.


Way back in 1982 (when I was but a wee lad







)I predicted that the biggest problem would always, always be Software, _not_ Hardware. I'm gonna stick my neck out and say that's still true (a footnote to Moore's Law







) now even with CPU architecture. We all know about the battles to build the biggest and baddest Supercomputer. The now the fastest one by Toshiba has 68,000 CPU's.

Sounds totally cool, eh? For me the real accomplishment is the *software* required to make all those chips work together harmoniously and efficiently.

Damn, this IS an exciting time to be alive!


----------



## Blitz6804

The only real difference between a 1090T and an 1100T is that the 1100T stocks one half multiplier higher. Oh, and a 1100T requires BIOS F5 or newer, whereas the 1090T can run on BIOS F1 if you wanted. (WHY!?)

Other than that, they are the same TDP, same maximum multiplier (both black editions), and same stock cooler. So why get an 1100T?


----------



## ig0ru4

yes, now i agree that 1090t is similar to 1100t(almost). and think it will be a good choice for work and a little bit gaming


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:



yes, now i agree that 1090t is similar to 1100t(almost). and think it will be a good choice for work and a little bit gaming


Sorry, guys, if I sound a bit acerbic here, but this topic has been done to death way back when these chips were new.

Overclock the 1090T and you can kick the crap out of the 1100T which cannot be overclocked very well. Why? The 1100T is basically the 1090T that has been slightly overclocked at the factory - and hence cannot be overclocked that much more.

If I am not stating this correctly, it's due to my faulty memory about a question/problem that is *no more*. I did sum it up nicely in my less than complimentary statement that the 1100T was a marketing gimmick.

As for attitude now, my apologies if I seem to have any. (Eye surgery, for what it's worth, actually can hurt.) More importantly, I do get a little fatigued in my not being taken seriously -- either because:

1) I don't have a lot of flowers, fireballs, Gold Stars or other Merit Badges after my name. Good Grief, if I needed those to boost my ego, then I would chase after them more.








-or-
2) I have adopted a Daffy Duck avatar.

I am a very (usually) self-depreciating person, a posture that in Western Society leads to considerable misunderstanding.

"My little girl is truly gifted on the piano". Translation: She can already play chopsticks.

Asian Mom: "My little girl is taking piano lessons but she's not very good yet." Translation: The kid is ready to play at Carnegie Hall!

So here's my suggestion: Whenever I post any advice (hardly ever) or a suggestion, kindly do your homework and Google me wrong! Trust me. I just love to be proven wrong!

Conclusions:

1) Wait until Bulldozer not only arrives upon the scene but the iteration of BD that suites your needs also arrives upon the scene (a bit later).

2) Always buy a "mature technology". Translation: Wait and see if the BD does what it's amped up to do or is just another marketing rabbit.

3) Don't try to stack a BD on an _elderly board_. Buy a proper board that has been optimized for the BD. And, yes, I know that you can update the BIOS so it will accommodate newer chips (4-core to 6-core, AMD Crosshair 4 to accommodate BD and so on.

Why do I know that? As with many other things computer related, Been There, Done That.


----------



## Dognose

Hello,

Don't know if this is usefull to any of you, but I haven't seen it discussed so here goes...

Problem 1,
My first GB board was a 790GP-DS4H. It was the first time that I had had a board with more than 2 sata ports. I read and believed that with sata there were no masters or slaves, and that where I plugged my drives in didn't matter, just set the boot priority in the bios. So I just plugged my drives in starting with 2-0 for my Raptor, and following (BOARD numberwise) in order for my other drives (2x WD Blacks). I used the bios "Hard Disk Boot Priority" entry to choose the Raptor OS drive.

I was very dissapointed with drive performance, it took a VERY long time to write, copy, move files from drive to drive, and sometimes it took an extremely long time to boot. This with Linux

Problem 2,
I built a system for my son, with a 790FXTA board, same drives as mine. He installed Win7. At first all was well, but again sometimes boot times were extraordinary long, and some boots resulted in the message "Bootmgr Missing", followed by not booting. Googling this showed that a lot of people were having the same problem, but I found no real answers.

Theory,
I thought that maybe there was a problem with the bios not correctly setting the OS drive (re)mapping. Perhaps the bios was sometimes forgetting which drive was supposed to be the first bootable one. Perhaps there was a need to select channels and master/slave relationships after all.

Solution,
So I started checking which physical socket reported itself as which channel, master, and slave when the system posted. For the 890FXA-UD5 (rev2.0 F6) I got this...

Channel 0 Master = Sata3-0 (using for 150gb boot drive)
Channel 0 Slave = Sata3-2
Channel 1 Master = Sata3-1 (using for 1tb data drive)
Channel 1 Slave = Sata3-3
Channel 2 Master = Sata3-4 (using for 2tb data drive)
Channel 2 Slave = Sata3-5
Channel 3 Master = does not appear in post screen
Channel 3 Slave = does not appear in post screen
Channel 4 Master = not checked
Channel 4 Slave = not checked
Channel 5 Master = Sata2-6 (using for dvd)
Channel 5 Slave = Sata2-7 (using for blu-ray)
Channel 6 Master = not checked
Channel 6 Slave = not checked
Channel 7 Master = not checked
Channel 7 Slave = not checked

So, using only master channels, starting with 0 for the boot drive resulted in dramaticly faster boot times, dramaticly faster file transfers (as in several minutes faster for larger files), and no more boot problems for the machine with windows.
Note: The 790GP, 790XTA, 790FXTA, and 890 FXA sata port mapping were NOT the same.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I wanted to try to contribute and perhaps in a small way pay you back for all of the info that I found here.
I have zero experience with raid, but speculate that perhaps there are performance gains to be found by experimenting with port use? Or perhaps the differences/problems between bios versions can be solved by checking for different port mapping between versions?

'pologies if this is already known.

Best Regards,
James

Edited: correction & addition

----

Hello,

Another small thing...
I found that with my graphics card installed it was so long that I couldn't remove the cover for the CMOS reset button. So I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of it. Large enough to get the tip of a toothpick through, but too small for an accidental reset.

Best Regards,
James

----

Hello,

I noticed that some of you are having cooling problems with multi graphics cards, with lower cards blocking air flow to the upper cards.

I've built 3 systems with the Silverstone Raven so far. By turning the mainboard 90° (external ports are on top) all of the installed cards hang verticaly. The entire base of the case consists of 3x180mm fans. Air flows up through/between the cards, convection works for you and not against you. They are expensive, but overall very good. LOL, I am saving my pennies to buy one for myself.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=669&Itemid=61

Best Regards,
James


----------



## incurablegeek

GeeWhiz Dognose, you *ARE* a welcome addition to this group and to any other you may choose to join. Hoping not to say this too awkwardly, I can only speak what I feel - tossing "politically correct" on the ash heap where it has always belonged.

And that is ... Your posts are not lengthy or longwinded but rather just chock-full of information. Furthermore you post in very clear "outline form", and are therefore exceedingly easy to learn from. Very seldom, actually never since I met *TwoCables*, have I complimented a member so.

And as I have stated before and elsewhere, I think Gold Stars, Merit Badges, Fiery Flowers and the like are for those whose Ego is on Life Support. With that said, I feel I must "play the game" and "Up Your Rep". Thanks for all your detailed info re the UD5 board.

Regarding my own travails with the UD5 and GB support, I must say that I may have "bashed" them a bit unfairly. I'm all for giving someone a 2nd chance should they warrant it.

Gigabyte has offered to accept my board as RMA (the 2nd time). For that, I must give credit where credit is due. They have also offered to replace it, and we shall see how that goes.

All of you folks: please do not think I am in any way becoming "a limp wrist" here. I am still plenty pissed off. Thus far, I am out the cost of the UD5 and thus far I have had no use of it.

However, to paraphrase Forest Gump: "Honest is, honest does, Sir".
*And ... at least Gigabyte Support IS trying!*

Footnote: *TwoCables* is the most knowledgeable, helpful and lucid thinker I have met on OCN. I am also proud to call him a friend.


----------



## Dognose

Well,
Thanks.
My experience with GB has been so far good. The only problems that I have had have been (tell the truth now james) self inflicted. But I haven't yet attempted to overclock. Lack of information has been the largest problem, learning what is possable, what works together and what doesn't.

Best Regards,
James


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:


> My experience with GB has been so far good.


Yeh, I must agree that GB deserves the benefit of the doubt. I really do think/believe that the UD5 is a "Problem-Child", based on my own personal and unfortunate experience as well as entire OCN thread (this one) in which many other members share similar tales of woe.

For what it's worth, I have a UD3 (actually I'm something of a board, cpu, everything electronic junkie) and it has given me no problems. From my reading and it is extensive, Gigabyte and ASUS are two of the finer board designers and manufacturers. That's why I gave GB a chance; but no longer will I stray from ASUS (I have 3 computers here running ASUS boards; they all kick @ss!)

But, as I have said before, the X Factor is the moving of Taiwan manufacturing to China, where quality is not even of secondary importance. That is why I think, and I am in a far better position to know these things than perhaps anyone else you will encounter, the problem is the Location of the Manufacturing and the irregular product quality that results.

Re the "Hows and Whys of Overclocking" OCN is not only the Best Place to learn. OCN is arguably the Only Place to learn. More than 220,000 members - all very knowledgeable and all so willing to assist. Good luck.


----------



## polynomialc

ud5 has always been super stable board for me, using the original rev2 board. overall a great board for the past year but the decision on gigabytes part to move from texas instrument parts to Low-End VIA components on the 990fx has been a deal breaker for me. This is my first gigabyte board, not giving up no them as a company but future board will probably be intel flavor since they keep some of the higher end components.


----------



## Dognose

polynomialc,

I see that you have a Silverstone Fortress. How do you like it? Is it worth the extra money over a Raven?
Thanks,
James


----------



## Dognose

Hello,

For your memory chart... 
I'm currently using 16gb (2 sets of 2x4gb) of G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3-1333 F3-10666CL7D-8GBRH.

I have all cpu and bus settings at stock speeds for my 965, but fixed them in manual mode. C&Q, C1E, Spread Spectrum all disabled, and unganged mode. 
All voltages are Normal EXCEPT Dram Voltage = 1.550v, NB Voltage Control = 1.170v and CPU NB-VID = 1.1250. 
I saved this as a profile and rebooted, then set 7-7-7-21-2T-5T, and saved that as a second profile.

I saw a G.Skill moderator state in their forums to try Trfc at 110ns, but that didn't work for me, wouldn't post, I had to clear cmos, load profile and leave Trfc at 160ns. I haven't tried to change any other memory settings. Any advice will of course be gratefully accepted.

I have just downloaded Memtest86+ 4.20 and will run it this weekend.

This memory clears the Noctua HH-U9B-SE2 cooler, but I had to raise the pusher fan a couple of clips. They clear the NH-U12P-SE2 without needing to do that (just barely), but the one nearest to the cpu must be installed before the cooler.

James

Edit: added more info.


----------



## nonamelab

@Dognose :

The real diference is in the material used :

*Fortress* is made of 4.5mm *aluminum* unibody frame, 0.8mm steel body + noise absorption foam
*Raven* is made of reinforced *plastic* outer shell, 0.8mm steel body.

*Silverstone Fortress FT02*










*Silverstone Raven RV02-E*









*Silverstone Raven RV02*


----------



## polynomialc

fortress is a great case, best ive owned. the fact that the videocards pump out hot air, straight up is nice, keeps temps down. everything was easy to setup and the stock fans included are pretty decent. the air filters are easy to clean, 3 at the bottom and a psu one on the back. no need for me to mod it at all so far. i think its probably one of the best air case you can get, other then some really expensive lian li ones , but its not meant for any water cooling. i paid around 230.00 canadian so not bad at all.


----------



## bobo53

Hi, is the GA-890FXA-UD5 rev.2.0 and 2.1 going to get a a AM3+ bios update? I can see that the UD7 got an update a couple of months ago and many inferior AM3 models got an AM3+ update recently. Is there any reasons why this motherboard has not had an update yet?? Also, for these models that got an update, what are the drawbacks by using an AM3+ cpu on a bios upgraded AM3 motherboard opposed to a proper Am3+ MOTHERBOARD or will be the same??
Thank You, Alex


----------



## Blitz6804

Alex: No, as discussed a few times in the last few pages, the UD5 will not get an AM3+ BIOS unless you have Revision 3.x.


----------



## bobo53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14485618*
> Alex: No, as discussed a few times in the last few pages, the UD5 will not get an AM3+ BIOS unless you have Revision 3.x.


Thank you, i also got another motherboard (890gpa-ud3h rev.2.1) which will. What will be the disavvantages by not having a proper am3+ socket with the same specifications???
Thank You in advance, Alex


----------



## Dognose

polynomialc,

Thanks for the reply. Afaik the interior layouts of the raven and fortress are the same? I've built 3 systems with a raven, simply love them. But the fortress is 50 euros more expensive here (€210 vs €160). I'll rephrase my question. 
Do you feel that the aluminum frame is worth it? I'm leaning strongly towards buying one, but I'll have to sharply reduce my beer ration for a month to afford it. Tough choice.

So far my only beef with the raven is the lack of a supplied speaker, and that the holes in the case rear for the psu intake don't extend down far enough. About 1/4 of the lower psu intake area is covered.

James


----------



## polynomialc

i would go for the fortress, the case is solid does not feel cheap at all, hardly any plastic, will last a few years atleast, worth the money in my opinion. raven looks good also but ive never used one, if its about money im sure its good enough also.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


Alex: No, as discussed a few times in the last few pages, the UD5 will not get an AM3+ BIOS unless you have Revision 3.x.


Rev3.0: white socket
Rev3.1: black socket

So what makes Rev 3.0 different from rev 2/2.1 or the fact that UD7 has the upgrade?


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;14514458*
> Rev3.0: white socket
> Rev3.1: black socket
> 
> So what makes Rev 3.0 different from rev 2/2.1 or the fact that UD7 has the upgrade?


I honestly think Gigabyte is giving us early Rev owners the run around. I sent them a question to why no BIOS upgrade and was told its because of the Size of the BIOS chip on the early revision boards. Unfortunately it makes no sense because the UD7 has the same size BIOS from what I can tell from the specs and the BIOS size on the UD7 that supports the AM3+ is smaller than that on the UD5.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


I honestly think Gigabyte is giving us early Rev owners the run around. I sent them a question to why no BIOS upgrade and was told its because of the Size of the BIOS chip on the early revision boards. Unfortunately it makes no sense because the UD7 has the same size BIOS from what I can tell from the specs and the BIOS size on the UD7 that supports the AM3+ is smaller than that on the UD5.


In easy words, they don't want.

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## bobo53

So, what difference will make beetwen a proper am3+ vs bios update am3+??
obviously apart for any extras that might have been added on the newer versions. Asrock is not giving any updates at all as they feel that voltages etc.. would be the problem. So, does anyone knows what will be the drawbacks on a bios update am3+ or would be exactly the same on a gigabyte or asus etc...??
Thank You,Alex


----------



## saint19

The AM3 mobos than support AM3+ CPUs won't have all the BD features.


----------



## hesho

honestly.. i think they made a business decision. They figure that most ppl that has this mobo would upgrade regardless anyway hence y they released the 9xx series (which i hear r pretty bad). I just don't think they were expecting BD to be delayed.

I figure they weighed the issue of ppl that would blindly upgrade vs pissing off current users and ppl upgrading weighed more. That's my guess anyway.


----------



## Dognose

Hello,
Google "AMD Socket FM2".
You will see that the FM2 is the "real" BD socket. (and possably backwards comp with the FM1). Imho the am3+ is not only a waste of money but also a dead end. The AM(x)+- socket has had a good run. What? 2+ years? Or 3? That's a long time for a PC product. Time to move on. The AM3+ is just a gap filler marketing tool to generate money/sales during the delay to market of the Buldozer and then the FM2 socket.

Buy a first gen cpu? For me the answer is "no way, not a chance". I will wait till the BD hits the market, scoop up a 1090T or 1100T when the price drops, maximize my existing box and plan on late 2012 for a 2nd generation cpu/chipset upgrade.

Cheers,
James


----------



## Dognose

This might be interesting...

http://www.fudzilla.com/home/item/23...liquid-cooling

James


----------



## ig0ru4

i think that the best way is to wait until BD release. And then we will certanly know if the rev 2.1 will support it. Maybe some people will make non-official bios for its support... i hope


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

890FXA-UD5 guru's i have a question for you guys...

after i disable cool n quite in the bios and get into winders and open ET6 if i move the FSB from 200 to 201...... cool n quite kicks in and drops the multiplier from x20 down to x16... if i leave disabled in the bios and get into winders and use AOD.... same effect.
the only option that doesnt change the multi like cool n quite still being enabled is to use K10Stat...

any ideas?


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms*


890FXA-UD5 guru's i have a question for you guys...

after i disable cool n quite in the bios and get into winders and open ET6 if i move the FSB from 200 to 201...... cool n quite kicks in and drops the multiplier from x20 down to x16... if i leave disabled in the bios and get into winders and use AOD.... same effect.
the only option that doesnt change the multi like cool n quite still being enabled is to use K10Stat...

any ideas?


Don't use ET6 or AOD, disable cool'n'quite and C1E support and use k10stat, even, you can use it with cool'n'quite enable

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


Don't use ET6 or AOD, disable cool'n'quite and C1E support and use k10stat, even, you can use it with cool'n'quite enable

Sent from my Android using TapaTalk


Thanks.... just wanted to confirm...
It's all prep'd up and ready for some action...


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


I honestly think Gigabyte is giving us early Rev owners the run around. I sent them a question to why no BIOS upgrade and was told its because of the Size of the BIOS chip on the early revision boards. Unfortunately it makes no sense because the UD7 has the same size BIOS from what I can tell from the specs and the BIOS size on the UD7 that supports the AM3+ is smaller than that on the UD5.


There has to be something physical with the board itself for Gigabyte not to support it while supporting others..

I accepted it and bought a M5A99X motherboard.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


There has to be something physical with the board itself for Gigabyte not to support it while supporting others..

I accepted it and bought a M5A99X motherboard.


Dimm layout is different, I believe, and is likely one of the main issues. GB has made excuses about it. They may think that people will blindly upgrade, and some will (if they haven't already). I'm still unhappy about that, and think that GB is making the wrong choice. I know they lost a lot of business in my circle of friends, as well as being affected by the computers we build for people.


----------



## HankScorpio

Hello all.

I've got this mobo UD5 with my x4 955 C3 and can only get stable 3.8Ghz with 1.5vcore. 3.6Ghz is stable with stock voltage.

I've tried running 4Ghz with 1.55Vcore in prime95 but it's unstable. Would I have better results by overclocking the FSB instead of using the multi ?

Using the khuler 620 so don't really want to go to 1.55. My temps at the mo on 1.5 are 50c cpu+gpu folding 24/7

I really want to get a stable 4Ghz but I'm a bit unsure of how to overclock using the FSB since I'm not sure what voltages I'd need to increase (nb, dram) ?

Thanks

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1955752


----------



## incurablegeek

I am little, actually a lot, behind in my reading on the GB board here, so my thanks is quite belated. Nevertheless, I found this post to be really, really informative and, excuse me here, totally cool as a direction for AMD in the future.
Quote:


> This might be interesting...
> 
> http://www.fudzilla.com/home/item/23...liquid-cooling


Definitely food for thought, James. Thanks so much!









Btw All: my UD5 still has not been returned from its second RMA. Geez, I hope it will work - eventually.


----------



## emip3

hello, my english is very bad, i need help with the voltages values, i have a 1055t with a GA 890 FXA UD5, i want get 4.2 ghz, fsb 300 * multi X14, nb speed? nb voltage? NB/CPU voltage?
What recommend me? THANKS!

PD: my cooling system is the Antec Kuhler H2O 920, 1055t @ 3.92 1.475v = 43º-44º C in full load prime95


----------



## UnexplodedCow

New people...this might be a motherboard club, but new members posting only for overclocking help to get 4+ Ghz is a little absurd. Not all chips will do this, and not all boards (my opinion) will do it. Also, most of your questions will have already been answered long ago. Please, search this massive thread, and I would wager that at least 90% of your questions are already answered. (This is not meant for the people who have come in with experience, data, and are otherwise contributing...yes, this is a touch of ranting).


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:


> On a side note: new people...this might be a motherboard club, but new members posting only for overclocking help to get 4+ Ghz is a little absurd. Not all chips will do this, and not all boards (my opinion) will do it...


Very, very sound advice.

File this in the Laugh Column: There is a new member over on the Crosshair V Club who wanted advice on cooling.

It seems he plans to overclock to 5.0+ GHz.
















Also, my apologies to all regarding my Gigabyte Tech Support post. It's just that I promised long ago when this UD5 problem of mine began that I would report back on whether or not GB would actually replace the board as they had promised.

Not only will they not; but I just looked at some pics of a board that were just emailed to me. Suffice it to say that these folks will do just about anything to avoid keeping a promise.

At any rate, I shall not appear again on this thread.







for the simple reason that I will not be purchasing "2 oz. of copper" anymore.

Good luck to all. For what it's worth my UD3 board works just fine and has never needed to be RMA'd.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

I got a UD5.... and 4GHz is a waste, 5GHz is a waste too... 6.5GHz or higher or its a fail.
720BE and 555BE all ready... 230L of LN2









Here

The total goal on this 890FXA-UD5 is 6.8GHz on a 555BE... results will be posted next week in the above thread... I hope


----------



## emip3

Dear UnexplodedClow, you do not have a plaque Gigabyte, then do not understand why you respond to this thread, my question is about proper voltages, no tips of cpu`s or cooling.
Also, this thread has 378 pages, I look a little but did not find what I wanted.

Thanks for nothing!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *emip3*


Dear UnexplodedClow, you do not have a plaque Gigabyte, then do not understand why you respond to this thread, my question is about proper voltages, no tips of cpu`s or cooling.
Also, this thread has 378 pages, I look a little but did not find what I wanted.

Thanks for nothing!


It's not listed in my signature rig anymore, but I did have one, and have dealt with it since it was released, with the wonderfully awful F1 BIOS. If you had read a few pages into the thread you would have seen me post, as well as posting my woes regarding Gigabyte tech support.

I opted to let the girlfriend have the motherboard due to a build I was doing at the time, as well as getting rid of the instability in my system. I switched to my "spare" system's Asus board, and it became the main rig for a short time.

Because, by proxy, I still own the board (as well as have the warranty in my name and service it as needed) I still am a member. I've also posted advice on cooling and voltages in the past, which is why I think people need to search this thread more; it's at least much easier than trying to search an entire forum, or even a section.

Incurablegeek, thanks for your commiseration regarding Gigabyte. I hope you can find a resolution that's positive. I also had a UD3 sitting around (now in parental computer) that has been 100% flawless.


----------



## ht_addict

I sent of a question to Gigabyte. Turns out they are working on a BIOS fix for Bulldozer support. Here is the response I got.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


I sent of a question to Gigabyte. Turns out they are working on a BIOS fix for Bulldozer support. Here is the response I got.


I don't know, I prefer wait until release and not keep false illusions.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


I don't know, I prefer wait until release and not keep false illusions.


False illusions is better than nothing at all.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I wonder why they would serve up a few stories and suddenly say they are working on something. Oh well. Maybe when it's time for the GF to upgrade, she might have the chance to get a Bulldozer to work with the board.

To wit, I don't think Gigabyte is screwing us over so much as trying to take the easy way out, tossing the board owners under the proverbial bus. But you at least have a documented response (whatever it's worth) proving they have made some incorrect statements.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


False illusions is better than nothing at all.


I can't use or overclock BD with illusions









I think that they only said you what you wanted to listen to


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *saint19*


I can't use or overclock BD with illusions









I think that they only said you what you wanted to listen to


I agree. They'll likely just keep saying it's under development until it's no-longer asked for.


----------



## incurablegeek

Quote:



To wit, I don't think Gigabyte is screwing us over so much as trying to take the easy way out, tossing the board owners under the proverbial bus. But you at least have a documented response (whatever it's worth) proving they have made some incorrect statements.


I didn't want to jump in here for fear of becoming even more _persona non gratis_ on this GB enthusiast board.

I just received from GB my UD5 board which has never worked and which has been RMA'd twice. You would not believe the run-around, oh excuse me for being so polite, the outright lies they told me.

They said my board had been shorted out in two places. Indeed the board they returned to me was. It had several arrows affixed to the back of the board pointing toward some obviously shorted-out places.

Interesting:

1) I always use an elastic grounding strap
2) I always wear vinyl (allergic to latex







) gloves so as not to get body oils and other grunge on my boards when I am working on them.

*The Board Gigabyte returned to me was not even the board I sent them!
*
And how do I know that? Well, boys and girls, Homie Da Clown here has been lied to by GB so much he marked the board in three places with indelible marker.

I don't wish to close down this thread. All I can say to all you GB Enthusiasts is that I have some

*Prime Land in Florida For Sale*


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incurablegeek;14763667*
> I didn't want to jump in here for fear of becoming even more _persona non gratis_ on this GB enthusiast board.
> 
> I just received from GB my UD5 board which has never worked and which has been RMA'd twice. You would not believe the run-around, oh excuse me for being so polite, the outright lies they told me.
> 
> They said my board had been shorted out in two places. Indeed the board they returned to me was. It had several arrows affixed to the back of the board pointing toward some obviously shorted-out places.
> 
> Interesting:
> 
> 1) I always use an elastic grounding strap
> 2) I always wear vinyl (allergic to latex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) gloves so as not to get body oils and other grunge on my boards when I am working on them.
> 
> The Board Gigabyte returned to me was not even the board I sent them!
> 
> And how do I know that? Well, boys and girls, Homie Da Clown here has been lied to by GB so much he marked the board in three places with indelible marker.
> 
> I don't wish to close down this thread. All I can say to all you GB Enthusiasts is that I have some
> 
> Prime Land in Florida For Sale


There is alot of people with *PRIME Land in Florida For Sale.* Not just yours:laugher:


----------



## -X3-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


I sent of a question to Gigabyte. Turns out they are working on a BIOS fix for Bulldozer support. Here is the response I got.


Fingers crossed


----------



## polynomialc

i guess fix for the last revision of the board? i was under the impression that bulldozer uses a different socket.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polynomialc;14855182*
> i guess fix for the last revision of the board? i was under the impression that bulldozer uses a different socket.


Same socket size different pin out configuration, the new revision comes with the socket for support AM3+ (Bulldozer) while the white socket mobos won't support BD.


----------



## shajack

i dont know if its a typo or picture typo if there is such a thing...y ud5 rev 3.0 supports am3+ proc
difference between support n not support is at the bios while it still uses the white socket for am3
or am i just seeing things


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saint19;14855513*
> Same socket size different pin out configuration, the new revision comes with the socket for support AM3+ (Bulldozer) while the white socket mobos won't support BD.


Not true, revision 3.0 of the UD5 has the white socket and support for BD. Other manufacturers also have support for BD with the white socket, eg the asus CH IV.


----------



## Blitz6804

Not fully. In order to get the full features, you need a black socket. (And later chips will need the black socket too.)


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804;14865706*
> Not fully. In order to get the full features, you need a black socket. (And later chips will need the black socket too.)


Agree, the white socket support AM3+ but not full specs of it while the black socket is pure AM3+ socket and comes with all features


----------



## ig0ru4

i dont understand gigabyte's service. its strange for me. i sent them previous screenshoot from this forum, and asked if rev2.1 will really support buldozzer. but i received 2 similar answers on diffrent questions. looks like they even don't read the message in full size.


----------



## HankScorpio

I've got the 2.0 revision UD5. No chance of BD working on this then?


----------



## Blitz6804

Probably not.


----------



## ht_addict

Fired off another inquiry and they said it should be ready by release of the CPU. Lets hope.


----------



## HankScorpio

Oh well. I only bought this system 12 months ago and I only web browse/type/game/fold so not really anywhere near needing BD for another 3+ years I reckon.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;14981851*
> Fired off another inquiry and they said it should be ready by release of the CPU. Lets hope.


They only said you what you was waiting hear


----------



## -X3-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;14981851*
> Fired off another inquiry and they said it should be ready by release of the CPU. Lets hope.


If GIGABYTE are developing false hopes, I'll kill them by myself


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Given their lack of support previously, and the duality of responses now, I'm going to choose the latter. Looks like they're resorting to using predetermined responses now, as well. Sucks to be us.


----------



## Erick Silver

Greetings!

I am a long time Intel user and just switched over to AMD this evenng/morning. I am not real familiar with the AMD side of things so need a bit of help to get this processor clocked up to its potential. What should I be upping in my bios to get it up to 4ghz? Are there things that I should not touch and if so what are they. I have spent the last week reading up a little bit but without the hardware in front of me it was kind of hard to get the full understanding. Can anyone help me out? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Blitz6804

You will want the F3 or F4 BIOS, depending on your fancy. Newer ones are buggy, and should be avoided unless you have a Thuban other than a 1090T or 1055T.

Ideally, what you would want to do is set your RAM to DDR3-1333 or DDR3-1066 (as needed), and start bumping up the HTT. When you are unstable, increase the voltage slightly, and keep right on going. You really should disable the Turbo. CnQ is your discretion. (As you will likely be 24/7 folding on it, might as well take it out.)

Spread spectra also need to be turned off. If I remember right, you can access them from the standard menu, but it wouldn't hut to be sure. When you first enter the BIOS, hit Ctrl+F1. That should completely unlock the BIOS.


----------



## epet7_wp

Hi! For those who are running under Linux, I've found a config file for lm-sensors to show up the correct voltages and temps.
http://www.lm-sensors.org/wiki/Configurations/Gigabyte/GA-790XTA-UD4

Sorry my bad english.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Fired off another inquiry and they said it should be ready by release of the CPU. Lets hope.


http://www.overclock.net/rumors-unco...sb850-amd.html

If Gigabyte don't the same I'm through with them!


----------



## polynomialc

i never knew about that ctrl-f1, couple extra options, what memory Fizzle setting? never heard of it before.


----------



## epet7_wp

Hi guys...
For thoose who where wondering about the missreading core temp (not case), here's what I've found in k10temp linux kernel module doc, a mention to AMD manual:

"Tctl is the processor temperature control value, used by the platform to
control cooling systems. Tctl is a non-physical temperature on an
arbitrary scale measured in degrees. It does _not_ represent an actual
physical temperature like die or case temperature. Instead, it specifies
the processor temperature relative to the point at which the system must
supply the maximum cooling for the processor's specified maximum case
temperature and maximum thermal power dissipation."

And the AMD manual:
http://support.amd.com/us/Processor_TechDocs/31116.pdf

I think this could apply to any Windows temp monitoring tool.


----------



## Erick Silver

Posted in the Form. Prime95 stable.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Any news on bulldozer bios update for 890FXA-UD5 2.0 version?


----------



## saint19

The same than few weeks ago, only the 3.1 support AM3+


----------



## hesho

so.. gigabyte has 5 days b4 they get put on my "do not buy" list.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;15215904*
> so.. gigabyte has 5 days b4 they get put on my "do not buy" list.


Checking their bios update page as I text this.


----------



## G3RG

Seems this board probably won't end up Bulldozer compatible (rev 2.0)...

Unless Bulldozer is a straight up miracle working chip I'll probably jump over to Intel and keep this board for a folding rig...


----------



## saint19

Long time ago and a lot of pages back we said that Rev 2.0 isn't and will not be compatible with AM3+ CPUs.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

They've said multiple times that we are not receiving an update, and suddenly stated they were. Really, they haven't done it by now, and likely aren't going to. The newest BIOS revision is nearly a year old, and they never did fix the issues the board had. 2.X is fail due to lack of support...case closed imo.
I will also likely jump ship on this and pick up an SB-E hexcore. It would be a first in terms of buying an Intel system, but based on preliminary reports, the performance is there. I'll wait to see what the chipsets and boards are like. Gigabyte won't be getting my support, though.

For what it's worth, my old UD5 keeps chugging along with a 965BE in the GF's system. The only annoying thing is starting it in a colder room (65F) will result in the CPU fan rotating so slowly the motherboard won't recognize the RPM signal (~200 rpm). After it boots into Windows, and an application is started, the noise goes away. At least the board works in stock form.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


They've said multiple times that we are not receiving an update, and suddenly stated they were. Really, they haven't done it by now, and likely aren't going to. The newest BIOS revision is nearly a year old, and they never did fix the issues the board had. 2.X is fail due to lack of support...case closed imo.
I will also likely jump ship on this and pick up an SB-E hexcore. It would be a first in terms of buying an Intel system, but based on preliminary reports, the performance is there. I'll wait to see what the chipsets and boards are like. Gigabyte won't be getting my support, though.

For what it's worth, my old UD5 keeps chugging along with a 965BE in the GF's system. The only annoying thing is starting it in a colder room (65F) will result in the CPU fan rotating so slowly the motherboard won't recognize the RPM signal (~200 rpm). After it boots into Windows, and an application is started, the noise goes away. At least the board works in stock form.


You are waiting the same as me, SB-E or BD....or maybe both of them.


----------



## hesho

u know, i kinda feel bad with AMD more then anything. Because of no bios, i can't buy BD yet so no less money for AMD then.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I blame Gigabyte for the BIOS issue. I have an 890gx GB board in a family member's computer, and even that gets a BD bios update. Not so for the 2.x UD5. And GB won't admit fault, or try to replace/upgrade the boards. As for BD being released this late (I've been seriously waiting since April of this year) and with the benchmarks (however accurate they may be) painting a grim picture, I'm not expecting BD to be all that terrific, and it's highly dependent on pricing. Sandy Bridge E, as much as I'm against Intel, looks to have more of what I'm looking for.

And that is how the business world turns. The last I'd heard of it, GlobalFoundries (AMD's spun off chip-making section) is having a problem with yields still. This usually is how things go when AMD shrinks the process size. We'll see..and hopefully the chip will launch tomorrow as the rumors profess, but I am no longer holding my breath; mostly I want to see if all the leaked benchmarks/rumors are true.


----------



## G3RG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow;15263055*
> Sandy Bridge E, as much as I'm against Intel, looks to have more of what I'm looking for.


This is me. Though I may got SB>IB route... due to them using the same socket...but judging by Intels history with sockets that means nothing =/.


----------



## hesho

hmm, so, BD is officially out. No bios. I guess no more gigabyte for me.

On topic though, honestly, BD isn't much faster then a thuban. I really don't want to go to intel in my next system


----------



## G3RG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


hmm, so, BD is officially out. No bios. *I guess no more gigabyte for me.*

On topic though, honestly, BD isn't much faster then a thuban. I really don't want to go to intel in my next system










As happy as I've been with this board.... It was probably my last one from Gigabyte.


----------



## -X3-

Perhaps that's a good thing that GB didn't release a bios update for this board... It looks like the Bulldozer is a bit of a fail... Honestly, I expected much more from it, and since no support available for BD for this board, I won't be tempted to get a BD proc.
Such a disappointment =\\


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G3RG*


As happy as I've been with this board.... It was probably my last one from Gigabyte.


I'm glad you enjoyed your experience. I rid myself of the UD5 months ago because I was furious with Gigabyte's lack of concern regarding their still-buggy BIOS as well as Bulldozer support. It was my first, and probably last Gigabyte board.

I'll check out the Bulldozer reviews/benchmarks (if any out right now) and see what it's about, but I'm not expecting much. I'd rather not go Intel, but if a company, evil as they may be, offers the end user what they are asking, one tends to gravitate toward it. Sadly, that's part of business. Anything beyond that falls into brand loyalty, and believe that I have some for AMD, but not enough to blind me entirely.


----------



## saint19

BD is out and was not what I was waiting for, so, maybe this is not a "not more Gigabyte" maybe is a "not more AMD"

Why AMD make us wait for a long time and at the end give us a Phenom line with a different name and more cores?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Because it's not a Phenom line. The whole architecture of Bulldozer is different, and doesn't really resemble Phenom. Single-core performance goes out the window with BD, and multi-threading improves, but slightly over a Thuban. Overclock the Thuban, and BD becomes less relevant. Overclock BD and performance improves, but not dramatically from the reviews I've read this morning.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UnexplodedCow*


Because it's not a Phenom line. The whole architecture of Bulldozer is different, and doesn't really resemble Phenom. Single-core performance goes out the window with BD, and multi-threading improves, but slightly over a Thuban. Overclock the Thuban, and BD becomes less relevant. Overclock BD and performance improves, but not dramatically from the reviews I've read this morning.


Correct but based on the reviews Intel still performs better and for 3D bench than depends of CPU (Aquamark, 3Dmark 01 for example) isn't a good option. For 2D maybe on wPrime.


----------



## hesho

IMHO, i think amd was better off trying to shrink the thubans. Ah well. Maybe i can find a cheap thuban for sale now *shrugs


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;15277960*
> IMHO, i think amd was better off trying to shrink the thubans. Ah well. Maybe i can find a cheap thuban for sale now *shrugs


But do it know, if I remember fine guys, Thuban cores are planed for retire at the end of this year.


----------



## hesho

its' too bad because my plan was to buy a used one off of someone that upgraded to BD but.. i'm not sure if they would even bother to upgrade now.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho;15279572*
> its' too bad because my plan was to buy a used one off of someone that upgraded to BD but.. i'm not sure if they would even bother to upgrade now.


Keep the current one and wait for the second revision, maybe comes out with better performance.


----------



## Blitz6804

It certainly looks like Bulldozer will be Phenom, v2. Perhaps there will be a Bulldozer II (Phenom II, v2) in the nearish future? I know as it currently stands, I am looking at SB-E. 11 years as an exclusive AMD customer, and I am pretty much done.


----------



## -X3-

Blitz, don't tell me that... You're moving to the dark side?


----------



## ig0ru4

Another reply, which i have recieved from gigabyte's support today. how can you comment it?


----------



## hesho

IMHO

first tech is trying to give hope, 2nd tech is telling the truth. You should ask if why the 890FXA-UD5 rev 2.x doesn't support it when other gigabyte models without the black socket has a bios update.


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


It certainly looks like Bulldozer will be Phenom, v2. Perhaps there will be a Bulldozer II (Phenom II, v2) in the nearish future? I know as it currently stands, I am looking at SB-E. 11 years as an exclusive AMD customer, and I am pretty much done.


Well, I share your opinion in a little part. BD wasn't what we are waiting but even that we should give it credit because overclock much better than any current AMD generation. If I also think in get an Intel rig, I'll keep my current rig and get a BD for extreme overclock, at the end, I try to keep my way away from Intel.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-X3-*


Blitz, don't tell me that... You're moving to the dark side?










I'm thinking the same, but just because can give me a lot of advantage in hwbot. For my daily work at home AMD and Intel gives me the same performance since I'm not a big gamer.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ig0ru4*


Another reply, which i have recieved from gigabyte's support today. how can you comment it?










In the same way than we said few pages ago? They only told you what you want to hear, nothing else.


----------



## Blitz6804

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-X3-*


Blitz, don't tell me that... You're moving to the dark side?










Shocking, isn't it?


----------



## -X3-

Definitely. But I think moving to intel will give them more power to do whatever they want...


----------



## ht_addict

Another update for gigabyte, though I think I will just jump ship to the AsRock Fatality 1.


----------



## hesho

not sure if anyone noticed or not but all the beta bios on gigabyte's website no longer says "added am3+ support". It just says beta bios so not sure what that means..


----------



## ht_addict

Here's another reply. Sounding good, but in the end when I get my Bulldozer it will be going in a ASrock Fatality1.


----------



## pony-tail

I have decided to give Bulldozer a miss ! So I am about to resurrect my old 890FXA - UD5 (rev 2.1 ) over the next couple of pays .
I am going this way because of dissatisfaction with the 990FXA-ud3 that I replaced it with (my signature rig ) . I am pretty much starting with a clean slate as most of my original build has gone into the 990 .
I have the Mobo CPU (965 BE ) and 2 sticks of Kingston 1333 ram (4gig) and an Antec 183 with a CP850 psu and till funds accumulate a 500gig WD hard drive. 
What I am looking at is over the next 6 weeks or so acquiring a video card (or two) and a current model hard drive and upgrading what is there bit by bit until
I have a machine that will last me a couple more years - I am not an overclocker - but will tweak things a bit here and there .
I am looking for some advice on what needs to be replaced and what will stay .
I was thinking an 1100t for a CPU as an upgrade - Video card I am not sure as I do play a few games . Was thinking a used Radeon 5850 I have been offered .


----------



## ht_addict

Looks like I should have it soon.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Interesting, and I hope it works out. As for Blitz jumping ship; I've only bought AMD processors since I started working with computers about 10 years ago, and it's coming down to going SB-E. I'm excited for the change..and planning on a 3930K chip. It will be somewhat new territory; I haven't played with an Intel chip since I was given an old P4B that I overclocked fairly high (2.4Ghz stock to 3.6, air cooling), but it was an impressive chip (still lost to an Athlon XP @ 2.6 Ghz).

We'll see how things pan out. I don't see Bulldozer as a serious upgrade compared to even a 965 PhII chip at this point, let alone solid compared to an OC'd 1090T. Perhaps AMD was thinking a little too far ahead in terms of design..or maybe too far in left field ( I prefer to think the latter).


----------



## ig0ru4

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Looks like I should have it soon.


 please email it to me([email protected]) or upload here, as soon as you get it. thanks


----------



## hesho

kinda curious, anyone know if the bios updates improves compatibility with the ram? I'm currently using F4 bios and i'm having some ram issues with my new ram (its' not letting me change any timings at all!). Would any of the newer bios help?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Hesho,

F4 seemed to give some issues with RAM for me. F6 was what I liked with a 1090T on the board. In your case, with an X4, I found F3 to be the best. F5 should be avoided entirely. F2 is pretty buggy, and F1 (release) was horrid.


----------



## hesho

F3? Hmm. I haven't decided which one to go to but i swear, i remember reading that anyone with an X4 should NOT go to F6.

curious, what was wrong with F5?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

F5 caused RAID arrays to corrupt. F6 definitely should not be used by an X4 chip. It will run...but will be extremely flaky. F3 is the most popular here, and is what my former board is using with a C2 965 chip (the 140 watt model). It runs superbly at stock clocks.


----------



## hesho

what if i don't use raid? should i try f5 or just not bother?


----------



## silbluever

I have been using the F5 bios pretty much since I got the UD5 with my 1075T.
This board has been kickin ass since I got it. i was really hoping Gig would allow us to drop in a BD proc with an update but I guess not









Try the F5 Bios


----------



## hesho

*looks @ silbluever's ram...

what r u running that ram at? That's the ram i have (though 8gb) and my issue is that if i set the timings to manual, the system will not post (even 1333 with 11-11-11 timings). Do you have that problem?


----------



## silbluever

No my ram runs at all speeds and the only prob I ever had is with voltage ATM it is running 9-11-9-27-35tRC supposed to be 50 but the bios only goes to 40 something. at this setting at 1866 280FSB and 4.2Ghz I set the voltage to 1.65 and it barely made it to the desktop. had to push it to 1.69V


----------



## silbluever

Are you using the 1.5v they recommend for that speed


----------



## hesho

i tried up to 1.69v lol.


----------



## silbluever

Attachment 236361


----------



## silbluever

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


i tried up to 1.69v lol.


The IMC on your proc might be having probs cuz it is unlocked but with auto on there should be no issues. BTW what DIMM slots are the memory in.


----------



## hesho

hmm, i noticed that u r using dimm slot 1/2. I'm using dimm 3 and 4. Should i try switching slots?

Also, what makes my issue rather odd.... I'm running the memory at 1572 with auto timings (this passed 24hours of prime95). The second i set the timings to manual, it will fail to post. Even if i changed to the timings to what it would be with auto, it will fail. I also tried changing everything to stock, setting ram to 1333 with timings 11-11-11, it will not post. That's my issue. F5 bios didn't help either :/


----------



## silbluever

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hesho*


hmm, i noticed that u r using dimm slot 1/2. I'm using dimm 3 and 4. Should i try switching slots?

Also, what makes my issue rather odd.... I'm running the memory at 1572 with auto timings (this passed 24hours of prime95). The second i set the timings to manual, it will fail to post. Even if i changed to the timings to what it would be with auto, it will fail. I also tried changing everything to stock, setting ram to 1333 with timings 11-11-11, it will not post. That's my issue. F5 bios didn't help either :/


Change the mem slots to 1 and 2 that should help. Oddly when I set my memory to auto the board runs like crap. I have also change the data strength from 1.00 to 1.25 while running at 1866mhz. It also might just be your IMC is not working right


----------



## pony-tail

I have a rev 2.1 board 
No issues with the shipping bios (F4) so I have not changed it 
Cpu = Phenom II 965
I used to have 8 gig Kingston HyperX KHX1600C9D3 It worked fine with them too ( I nicked them for my new build ) now running value ram .


----------



## pony-tail

I had to upgrade my bios to F6 today to support my new 1100T.
No issues yet but only an hour ago .


----------



## hesho

Quote:



Originally Posted by *silbluever*


I have also change the data strength from 1.00 to 1.25 while running at 1866mhz. It also might just be your IMC is not working right










???????????


----------



## pony-tail

I just ordered ( and have paid a deposit ) 2 x XFX 6870 video cards for my Re-build . First will the top card overheat ( I thought about it after I made the order - The 6870s are dual slot cards and there will be little space between them ) Second - I was informed this morning that 6870 is only about the same as a 5770 - is this true ?
I read a couple of reviews that say that it is about equal to a 5850 !


----------



## Blitz6804

A single 6870 is around the same as a single 5770, but in crossfire, two 6870s are about the same as a pair of 5850s. If I remember right.

Also, I currently have a triple stack of cards and all cards stay within their specs. It could be helpful (if you have a problem) to attach a 120mm fan to blow air into the gap between the cards.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:



Also, I currently have a triple stack of cards and all cards stay within their specs. It could be helpful (if you have a problem) to attach a 120mm fan to blow air into the gap between the cards.


Thanks for that .
Before I did the rebuild I had a pair of single slot HD4850s in there .


----------



## ht_addict

I just got a copy of the Bios for this board to support the Bulldozer. I've installed my new FX6100 and so far all is working well. I will attached the file for all to download. As well as proof that it is legit. Enjoy.


----------



## pony-tail

What revision board do you have ?


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail;15549544*
> What revision board do you have ?


Rev 2.0


----------



## pony-tail

I have a 2.1
I went with an 1100t - How good / bad is the FX ?


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pony-tail*


I have a 2.1
I went with an 1100t - How good / bad is the FX ?


Currently working on OC'ing it. Have it at 4.4G @1.4v @40oC under water cooling. Only got the 6100 because I can't get a 8150 or 8120 anywhere. Maybe get lucky and Gigabyte will come out with a BIOS upgrade to unlock the other 2 cores


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


I just got a copy of the Bios for this board to support the Bulldozer. I've installed my new FX6100 and so far all is working well. I will attached the file for all to download. As well as proof that it is legit. Enjoy.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pony-tail*


What revision board do you have ?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


Rev 2.0


----------



## ToxicAdam

Does not work for my 2.0 board. I get a bad check sum error after restarting.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


Does not work for my 2.0 board. I get a bad check sum error after restarting.


scratch that, ITS WORKING! I did not clear DMI pool data. There's a option to choose this on the @bios screen.

Now all I need is a FX chip to test it lol


----------



## saint19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*


scratch that, ITS WORKING! I did not clear DMI pool data. There's a option to choose this on the @bios screen.

Now all I need is a FX chip to test it lol


That's the important, the BIOS work but does the CPU?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pony-tail*


I just ordered ( and have paid a deposit ) 2 x XFX 6870 video cards for my Re-build . First will the top card overheat ( I thought about it after I made the order - The 6870s are dual slot cards and there will be little space between them ) Second - I was informed this morning that 6870 is only about the same as a 5770 - is this true ?
I read a couple of reviews that say that it is about equal to a 5850 !



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*


A single 6870 is around the same as a single 5770, but in crossfire, two 6870s are about the same as a pair of 5850s. If I remember right.

Also, I currently have a triple stack of cards and all cards stay within their specs. It could be helpful (if you have a problem) to attach a 120mm fan to blow air into the gap between the cards.


Blitz, I believe you might be thinking of the 6850, which slots between the 5770 and 5850. A 6870 routinely is above a 5850 in benchmarks I've seen (games or otherwise).

A link with theoretical comparison: all numbers.
http://www.hwcompare.com/6025/radeon...adeon-hd-6870/

A cross-fire pair of 5770 cards was just a touch above a 5850 for the time, and would mostly tie a stock 5870.

2x6870 cards will be a pretty good combo, and should act more like a 5970 card in terms of raw performance (6 series scales much better with Crossfire than the previous 5 series).

I checked a review here that shows a 6870 vs. 5850. The 6870 wins pretty much every time.
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...=628&Itemid=72

6850 cards, on the other hand:

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/rev...hd_6850_review

Suffice it to say, 2x6870 will provide plenty of performance (I'm happy with 1x6970 myself, and even my old 5850 can still churn out good FPS). If you're having cooling issues (assuming you aren't overclocking) is it possible to put the cards in slots 1 and 3? I know this would make each slot X8, but that is all the cards need for bandwidth. Downside: you'd need to find longer Crossfire straps. If you're really not afraid, you could try liquid cooling the top card at least, or possibly both, but I would try spacing the cards apart more first...cheaper, and will probably be effective enough.

Also, in terms of your case, how many fans do you have in it, and how much do they flow? The model in your signature doesn't have all that many fans (not what I'd consider enough for the amount of airflow those cards need). Maybe try some higher flow fans to improve airflow, and be sure to provide positive airflow pressure (more intake than exhaust). If all else fails, try another case.


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict;15543479*
> I just got a copy of the Bios for this board to support the Bulldozer. I've installed my new FX6100 and so far all is working well. I will attached the file for all to download. As well as proof that it is legit. Enjoy.


So it looks like it works with bulldozer but not properly with thuban. At least it shows the board can run bulldozer, seems like they weren't lying about the size constraint of the bios chip. +rep for the update.

Bit academic for me now as I have an 1100t on the way but still nice to know


----------



## silbluever

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ht_addict*


I just got a copy of the Bios for this board to support the Bulldozer. I've installed my new FX6100 and so far all is working well. I will attached the file for all to download. As well as proof that it is legit. Enjoy.


I am so happy about this cuz my UD5 runs soooo well I didn't want to part with it in order to get an FX chip. Hope this Bios dose OK


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pondermotive*


So it looks like it works with bulldozer but not properly with thuban.


Where you read this? I have the bios and its fine with my CPU


----------



## ht_addict

Got my FX6100 stable at 4.6Ghz







Going to push it further tommorrow


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:



Also, in terms of your case, how many fans do you have in it, and how much do they flow? The model in your signature doesn't have all that many fans (not what I'd consider enough for the amount of airflow those cards need). Maybe try some higher flow fans to improve airflow, and be sure to provide positive airflow pressure (more intake than exhaust). If all else fails, try another case.


Yes I am running a P183 - It has 4 @ 3 speed Antec 120mm fans .

Quote:



I am so happy about this cuz my UD5 runs soooo well I didn't want to part with it in order to get an FX chip. Hope this Bios dose OK


I am happy with my 890FXA-UD5 - I wish I could say the same for my recently purchased 990FXA-UD3 . Which was bought to replace my 890 but is not in any way as good or stable . Thats why I am rebuilding the 890FXA








Between BD's underwhelming performance and the flakeyness of the 990 board , it is not an upgrade or at least not the upgrade I was expecting !


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Suffice it to say, 2x6870 will provide plenty of performance (I'm happy with 1x6970 myself, and even my old 5850 can still churn out good FPS). If you're having cooling issues (assuming you aren't overclocking) is it possible to put the cards in slots 1 and 3? I know this would make each slot X8, but that is all the cards need for bandwidth. Downside: you'd need to find longer Crossfire straps. If you're really not afraid, you could try liquid cooling the top card at least, or possibly both, but I would try spacing the cards apart more first...cheaper, and will probably be effective enough.


I hope they turn out to be that good - they were shipped this morning - apparently being "Drop-shipped " (?????) from the wholesaler.


----------



## draughwurt

Does the f7e bios which supports bulldozer also enable IOMMU?


----------



## ig0ru4

is it possible to see the temperature of BD and does smart fan work?


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *draughwurt*


Does the f7e bios which supports bulldozer also enable IOMMU?


Nope i believe


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ig0ru4*


is it possible to see the temperature of BD and does smart fan work?


Temp is shown in the Bios. Smart Fan NO.


----------



## Klinkey

can anyone else confirm it yet? does it only work with 6 core or also 8 core


----------



## Klinkey

also post a bench compared to an am3+ board, would be interesting to see


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klinkey;15576586*
> can anyone else confirm it yet? does it only work with 6 core or also 8 core


I'd like to know this as well. A lot of us moved on to other boards thinking we would never see a 2.0 bios for bulldozer.


----------



## BackwoodsNC

So i put F7e on my system tonight and i noticed some issues with my ram. Can not set ram timings to correct settings; if i do it just blue screens while booting into windows. Gonna mess around with more tomorrow


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BackwoodsNC;15577286*
> So i put F7e on my system tonight and i noticed some issues with my ram. Can not set ram timings to correct settings; if i do it just blue screens while booting into windows. Gonna mess around with more tomorrow


I have 8GBs of ram too. Timing is set to 1333.. I read overclocking 8GBs to 1600 is not wise on AMD, sure it can be done be just know you are stressing the IMC.


----------



## polynomialc

so your able to get a bulldozer cpu working on a 2.0 rev board??? what about the change in socket? would like to confirm this actually works. i wasnt considering bulldozer before but for a cheap upgrade, if i can use this on my current board.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polynomialc;15593206*
> so your able to get a bulldozer cpu working on a 2.0 rev board??? what about the change in socket? would like to confirm this actually works. i wasnt considering bulldozer before but for a cheap upgrade, if i can use this on my current board.


Everything works just fine. Guess the pin out on the CPU and AM3 is the same for now. I know have a ASrock Fatality 1 and FX8150.


----------



## polynomialc

not sure what chip you were using before, but do you notice a decent boost with the new cpu? right now im using 1090t.


----------



## pondermotive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Where you read this? I have the bios and its fine with my CPU


On ht_addicts message to gigabyte he said that his 1055t was throttling down even under load with the new bios.


----------



## senth

Where do you get the F7e Bios? been checking everywhere. Someone link please?


----------



## ig0ru4

is 8150 works well on f7e bios? plese upload screen shoots


----------



## ig0ru4

89fxau52.zip 644k .zip file


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> NOTE: The F3 BIOS is no longer available from Gigabyte.


The above is quoted in the OP. I found the the above listed bios on the Gigabyte site. May want to look into updating the info there.

Also, I am going to be attempting a overclock on my system tomorrow. Whats the best bios to flash and what settings should I go with? The ones I have listed are not stable. I have not had it overclocked since I found out they were unstable.


----------



## Treize Kordero

I'm glad this working on a rev 2.0 board might be worth getting one for my AMD rig.


----------



## BeOtCh

any f7e bios for rev 2.1 ?


----------



## blackalphabet

coretemp used to be able to read my system temps, now coretemp is unable to read my system temps, it reads it at 0 C .

i've downloaded the latest coretemp, and installed, still reads it at 0 C , would this be a board issue?

just found out, CPU Core temps are at 0 C in HW Monitor .

I'm looking for any reason to warranty this board back =P and maybe get a new one of some sort. ( don't even know if that's possible ) .


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Try using HWmonitor, OCCT, or RealTemp to see if they're able to read anything. Also, I highly doubt GB is going to warranty a board for failing to read temps after a while. If the sensor is bad, why not get a thermistor and display to monitor the CPU temp?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I had a hard enough time getting them to replace a board (about 4 months old at most then) that had a defective SATA controller, as they don't test for that. Their tests, as told to me on the phone, consisted mainly of running 24 hour loops of 3DMark Vantage, Prime95, and Memtest. They never tested for temperature monitoring or SATA functionality, even when that is what I sent it in on. They kept blaming my RAM. After sending the same board in twice, they finally gave me a refurbished one, which has run warm, but relatively well. Overall I spent a few months without an operating machine.


----------



## zylonite

Can this board Rev 2.1 support booting windows from PCE-E x4 SSD?

OCZSSDPX-1RVDX0240


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I don't think so. Gigabyte would be the better source to ask, but I believe very few boards have that capability just yet...give it time, and a generation or two.


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeOtCh*
> 
> any f7e bios for rev 2.1 ?


The F7e BIOS should work on all boards with the WHITE socket.


----------



## BeOtCh

thanks ht


----------



## Redphil

Hello,

I own an 890FXA UD7. I would like to use it combined with a FX-4100 (Bulldozer), but the latest official BIOS does not support this CPU. I tried to convince the Gigabyte-Support to send me a Bulldozer-BIOS (they promoted the Mainboard with AM+-ready...







), but without any success. Is there a way to make the Mainboard ready for Bulldozer?
Does anyone have an Bulldozer-BIOS for the UD7 - or can I even use the Bulldozer-BIOS for the UD5 that was posted here in combination with my Mainboard?


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redphil*
> 
> Hello,
> I own an 890FXA UD7. I would like to use it combined with a FX-4100 (Bulldozer), but the latest official BIOS does not support this CPU. I tried to convince the Gigabyte-Support to send me a Bulldozer-BIOS (they promoted the Mainboard with AM+-ready...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but without any success. Is there a way to make the Mainboard ready for Bulldozer?
> Does anyone have an Bulldozer-BIOS for the UD7 - or can I even use the Bulldozer-BIOS for the UD5 that was posted here in combination with my Mainboard?


You could try to see if the UD5 Bios I posted works. If anything it will come up with a Checksum error which will prevent you from flashing the BIOS.


----------



## Redphil

@ht_addict: Thanks for your encouragement. I tried to flash your UD5-BIOS a moment ago - but the @BIOS-program didn't want to use the file ("BIOS Partnumber is not correct.").








Any other chance to get a Bulldozer-BIOS?


----------



## hesho

umm, the ud7 has a beta bios on the website. Have u not tried that? The beta bios is for 2.0 and 2.1 for the UD7 mobo. All the beta bios used to say added support for AM3+ bios but for some reason, when BD was released, they removed all reference of that.


----------



## sirbaili

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho*
> 
> umm, the ud7 has a beta bios on the website. Have u not tried that? The beta bios is for 2.0 and 2.1 for the UD7 mobo. All the beta bios used to say added support for AM3+ bios but for some reason, when BD was released, they removed all reference of that.


Hi there.

U can download all the removed Bios files form Gigabyte Russian ftp site - any FTP Client with remote site search capabilities will do.


----------



## Redphil

Hello again,

I was able to solve the problem finally. My UD7 ist now working with the FX-4100 (Bulldozer). Had a lucky hit - found a BIOS that's not listed on the Gigabyte-Site - F5G (the newest from Gigabyte ist F5F). This BIOS (available here: http://forum.gigabyte.de/index.php?page=Thread&postID=45628#post45628) contains Bulldozer-Support - so the hint from sirbaili could have worked out, too.
Thanks for all the support in this thread.









Gigabyte wasn't able to tell me about this BIOS... .


----------



## NayusDante

I've got an 890FXA-UD5 Rev 3.1 board, and the latest BIOS Gigabyte seems to have is FEc. I'm trying to fix the Steam games crash issue, but the "fixed" BIOSes for other Gigabyte boards are a month newer than FEc and I have no idea if they're going to fix it or not.

Is there anything I can do right now?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NayusDante*
> 
> I've got an 890FXA-UD5 Rev 3.1 board, and the latest BIOS Gigabyte seems to have is FEc. I'm trying to fix the Steam games crash issue, but the "fixed" BIOSes for other Gigabyte boards are a month newer than FEc and I have no idea if they're going to fix it or not.
> Is there anything I can do right now?


The link on that article is for an AM3+ mobo with chipset 990FX and yours is chipset 890FX.

What exactly problem are your having?


----------



## NayusDante

My problem is that they don't seem to be offering a fixed BIOS for my board. The latest BIOS for the 890FXA-UD5 3.1 is FEc from back in September. The fixed BIOSes are much newer than that, so I'm trying to find out whether there's going to even BE a fixed BIOS for this board.


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NayusDante*
> 
> My problem is that they don't seem to be offering a fixed BIOS for my board. The latest BIOS for the 890FXA-UD5 3.1 is FEc from back in September. The fixed BIOSes are much newer than that, so I'm trying to find out whether there's going to even BE a fixed BIOS for this board.


A fixed BIOS for what? What problem solve the new BIOS?


----------



## NayusDante

The Steam crashes. See my first post, I can't make it any clearer.

Gigabyte support hasn't even read my support ticket, and I haven't gotten any official response on their forum. Not sure where else to ask. I'm about to just buy an Asus and throw the Gigabyte on eBay...


----------



## 633Squadron

Hi,

I've just acquired an (almost) new GA890FXA-UD7 v2.1 and already I am having issues with getting it running. The symptoms I am getting is a power up but no POST, with the LED display reading '00' then flickering '88' and the board constantly trying to restart - it's like it's stuck in a loop. As far as I know the Bios is version F4.

My setup is:-

Athlon II X3 440, Titan Fenrir cooler, Gainward GTX260 graphics, OCZ Stealth Stream II PSU 600W, either 2Gb Mushkin Enhanced Silverline PC3-10666 9-9-9-24 (Part No. 996767) or 4Gb Corsair XMS3 CMX4GX3M2B1600C9 9-9-9-24 (Part No. 11060710), both sets of memory are 1.5v DIMMs, as recommended in Gigabyte's manual.

I have tried both sets of the memory in an Asus M4A77TD Pro motherboard with the same CPU / GPU and the Asus board will only POST and run correctly with the Corsair memory installed - it fails to POST with the Mushkin memory.

I am starting to think that the problem is memory compatibility, as the LED status counter never counts up, it stays at '00' and flickers '88', as if it's rebooting and the memory isn't registering, i.e. the same symptoms that the Asus displays with the Mushkin memory installed. I'm not sure if the speaker is supposed to beep on the Gigabyte board, but I'm getting no beeps.

Am I going down the right route here? Am I right in thinking that the 890FXA-UD7 won't work with 1.65v DIMMS? The board is on the bench at the moment and I would like some recommendations as to the most compatible memory that I can try in this board, to test it and prove it before I go installing it into a case.

Thanks.


----------



## siriq

The Corsair xms just fine. This is what i got in UD 5. Right now i got 12+ uptime and you are right. Its gonna be a memory issue. Either not compatible or memory fault. You can try it with kingston too. I had no problem so far with my kit(low voltage kit 1.35 but it runs on 1.5+ without any problem). Also pls try different dimm-s. Not just 1-2 or 3-4 slot(in manual 0-1 or 2-3).


----------



## 633Squadron

Hi,

I've noticed something else with this board and now I'm worried. When I use a 3-pin, no power management fan on the CPU fan header it spins up OK, but if I use a 4-pin power managed fan it just twitches once and stops - it doesn't even make a full turn.

I dropped back to a Radeon 4250 with passive cooling, to reduce the surge load at power up, but it's still the same. No display, no beeps, no count-up on the LED display, it just hangs at initial power up and cycles endlessly.

I would have thought that a good 600W PSU would have been plenty for this board, but would a lack of sufficient power really make the CPU fan management fail in this way?

I'm beginning to think it's borked.


----------



## luckyfast1

Hello, i just recently got a used board of a 890fxa-ud5, the blue piece of plastic that circles around the processor, does it need to be used? I just started building my computer and my hyper 212+ locks in tight without the blue plastic.


----------



## 633Squadron

The blue plastic clip is for the stock AMD fan or for other fans such as the Cooler Master 64, as this uses the same tabs to fix itself. The Hyper 212 has it's own brackets so you don't need the blue one.


----------



## 633Squadron

Well, I bought another 2Gb stick of Corsair XMS3 1333 1.5v CMX2GX3M1A1333C9 today, just to test a theory. On some forums, it's stated that Intel based boards prefer Corsair 'A' memory, whereas AMD prefer Corsair B memory.I thought that the erverse might be true for the Gigabyte boards...

The Gigabyte board doesn't see either version, (M1A or M2B) but the Asus board sees both flavours.

I'll stick with the Asus board and as far as I am concerned the Gigabyte board is a paperweight. Shame....


----------



## -X3-

Hey guys, what is the difference between TMPIN1 (CPU temp) temperature and the actual core temperature? I need to know my approximate core temperature, and I can't, because I have a B50, and it doesn't show any real values for core temperature in HWMonitor and in AMD OverDrive.


----------



## Blitz6804

Socket temp is 5-8º C cooler than the CPU temp. Thus, you want to keep that number less than 57º C if you feel lucky, and 54º C if you do not.


----------



## -X3-

So I'd want to understand this right. According to:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1128821/amd-temp-information-and-guide

TMPIN1 shows 7-10C higher temp compared to the accurate CPU temp value. So according to the link and you, my core temp is : TMPIN1 - 10 + 8?


----------



## Blitz6804

Never seen that link before. I guess my theory is wrong?


----------



## -X3-

What are your core temps (it shows core temps to you, right?) compared to TMPIN1 according to HWMonitor? That will approximately tell whether you theory is wrong or not


----------



## Blitz6804

TMPIN1 is 8º C warmer than core by default. Applying a 13º C curve to core (since Thubans are off 12-13º C) makes TMPIN1 5º C cooler than core.


----------



## -X3-

Now I'm confused... Curve? What?









I mean, when you look at your HWMonitor window, does it actually show that TMPIN1 is 5C cooler than the core temperature? What are the exact values you get on idle state for instance?


----------



## Blitz6804

When I look HWMonitor, TMPIN1 shows 8º C warmer than core. At idle, core reads 16º C, TMPIN1 reads 24º C. If I adjust the core temp to read 13º C warmer (since it supposedly reads 12-13º C too cool) my core reads 29º C. Ambient in this case is 18º C, so I know a core reading of 16º is absolutely impossible. (Air cooling cannot ever produce a core temp two degrees cooler than ambient.)


----------



## -X3-

Okay, thanks Blitz


----------



## Leew79

Hey folks,

Having a few problems finding a cpu cooler that fits in the space I have right now,so any help would be appreciated.
the case isn't the issue here but rather the mobo and ram,mother board is the GA-890FXA-UD5 and the ram 2 x 4gb corsair vengeance, so as ya can imagine space is a little on the tight side :S starting to think I may have to either go water cooling or replace my current ram

Huge thanks in advance
Lee


----------



## siriq

I would recommend Thermalright archon. I know a bit expensive but does the job well and doesn't block the memory slots( it is very tall so pls check your case before you buy it). I got 4x4 gig memory so this is what i buy(i got ocz vendetta 2 but since i got nv vga, i can overclock my cpu much easier).


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sirbaili*
> 
> Hi there.
> U can download all the removed Bios files form Gigabyte Russian ftp site - any FTP Client with remote site search capabilities will do.


The Rev changes in boards have a small difference in electrical design near one of the edges of the board

it's tiny but it's can make a huge difference


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leew79*
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> Having a few problems finding a cpu cooler that fits in the space I have right now,so any help would be appreciated.
> the case isn't the issue here but rather the mobo and ram,mother board is the GA-890FXA-UD5 and the ram 2 x 4gb corsair vengeance, so as ya can imagine space is a little on the tight side :S starting to think I may have to either go water cooling or replace my current ram
> 
> Huge thanks in advance
> Lee


The Corsair H100 is a rockstar of a cooler.... Keeps my 1100T(@ 4Ghz) in the high 20's most of the time and never out of the 30's even during extended BF3 gameplay. The H80 is also a great solution if space is an issue.

What's even better is installation is a breeze... doesn't even require a new back-plate on AMD boards!!!!

~fidof650


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Having a few problems finding a cpu cooler that fits in the space I have right now,so any help would be appreciated.
> the case isn't the issue here but rather the mobo and ram,mother board is the GA-890FXA-UD5 and the ram 2 x 4gb corsair vengeance, so as ya can imagine space is a little on the tight side :S starting to think I may have to either go water cooling or replace my current ram


I have a Thermalright TRUE 120 rev C and have had neither clearance or overheating issues with it . And I would highly recommend it .
That said there are newer coolers out there . Mine has been on my UD5 (sig rig) since new , removed once to change a PII 965 for an 1100t .


----------



## domt5chord

Good Morning,

This is my set up

UD7
1090 T
5990
8 GB 1333 RAM
1000 PS

Air Cooled in a HAF X

I'd like to find out

1) Would UD7 Handle two 7970's in crossfire?
2) I would like to swtich out to a higher amount of ram that is overclockable - andy suggestions?
3) Would 2 7970's in crossfire be better, performance wise, than my 5990?

Thanks!


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domt5chord*
> 
> Good Morning,
> This is my set up
> UD7
> 1090 T
> 5990
> 8 GB 1333 RAM
> 1000 PS
> Air Cooled in a HAF X
> I'd like to find out
> 
> 1) Would UD7 Handle two 7970's in crossfire?
> 2) I would like to swtich out to a higher amount of ram that is overclockable - andy suggestions?
> 3) Would 2 7970's in crossfire be better, performance wise, than my 5990?
> Thanks!


1) Yeah, can handle that Crossfire without problems.
2) Corsair Dominator or G.Skill Ripjaws. Avoid Crucial or Vengeance kits.
3) Two is always better than one

The problems of that Crossfire would be your CPU.


----------



## domt5chord

Thanks for getting back to me quickly...


----------



## Frogger420

I have seen settings for g-skill ripjaws 1333 cl7 gbrh ram on this forum.. But I can't find ANY settings for it with only 8gb....It's all 16gb. I can't get mine to run at cl7. I only got it running at cl7 at 535.8 Mhz. It's stable at 7-7-7-20 27 2t... I need to figure out If I should keep this 1333 cl7 gbrh ram, and buy 2 more sticks, or if I should swap this out for g-skill 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL and add another 2 sticks in the near future. I need to know soon. I'm building a pc for my mom, and put in the 1600's.. but maybe her dual core system with would like the 1333's better than this motherboard.

My build Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 I'm running f6 bios... rev 2.0 I think...
Processor Phenom II x6 1090T Thuban 130W
1100W. ABS tagan ITZ psu
Graphics card ( IN THE MARKET FOR ONE_ Open to recommendations )

Other pc for my mom: BIOSTAR A880G+ AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX, cpu AMD ATHLON II X2 260 3.2Ghz Regor

Please help ! I'm not a complete Idiot, but I'm fairly new to all of this. Thanks

Frogger420


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frogger420*
> 
> I have seen settings for g-skill ripjaws 1333 cl7 gbrh ram on this forum.. But I can't find ANY settings for it with only 8gb....It's all 16gb. I can't get mine to run at cl7. I only got it running at cl7 at 535.8 Mhz. It's stable at 7-7-7-20 27 2t... I need to figure out If I should keep this 1333 cl7 gbrh ram, and buy 2 more sticks, or if I should swap this out for g-skill 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL and add another 2 sticks in the near future. I need to know soon. I'm building a pc for my mom, and put in the 1600's.. but maybe her dual core system with would like the 1333's better than this motherboard.
> My build Gigabyte 890FXA-UD5 I'm running f6 bios... rev 2.0 I think...
> Processor Phenom II x6 1090T Thuban 130W
> 1100W. ABS tagan ITZ psu
> Graphics card ( IN THE MARKET FOR ONE_ Open to recommendations )
> Other pc for my mom: BIOSTAR A880G+ AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX, cpu AMD ATHLON II X2 260 3.2Ghz Regor
> Please help ! I'm not a complete Idiot, but I'm fairly new to all of this. Thanks
> Frogger420


Try 7-7-7-21-33-1T


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Hi guys I've rev 2.1 (UD5)

I'm using default voltage both cpu and ram. My CPU at 3995Mhz, Ram 1566 no crashes, no problem. But I can't go up, trying increase voltage and prime95 says, core stopped etc. Also trying AMD overdrive stability test. after 1 min. stops. If I use 3995-1566 it's ok.

What must I do - I tried +0,25 / + 0,50 / +0,75.. for CPU

Is that problem with cooler? I check when working, 54-55C


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Ok guys 4200 Mhz stabil.

Cpu Frequency 210

x20 - +0,125V
NB - 2310 (no voltage)
HT Link 2310 - (no voltage)

Ram - 9.9.9.24 - 1680Mhz - x8 - 1.65V


----------



## RUSL

cant change the bus freq at all~ not optimized~ or ram timings to manual, says this-> "may not coincide with current H/W states" the hell is that..


----------



## blackalphabet

if my CPU core temps are showing 0 C , would that be my motherboard temp sensor ? or is something wrong with my cpu ?


----------



## Celeras

Got new ram so I upgraded my BIOS (rev 2.0) from F3 to F6, and I'm noticing some hangs I wasn't getting before. Sometimes I'll never pass the BIOS screen(hang on splash screen, doesnt seem to freeze as numlock still toggles... but just sits there), and other times the monitor stays in power-save. Is this a known issue? Should I go back to F3?

[edit] Ok yeah, night and day difference. Not only did all the problems vanish after going back to F3, but I was able to knock some voltage off my new OC as well. If your specs are similar to mine, avoid F6!


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Guys can you share your NB - HT link voltages for OC ?


----------



## saint19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Guys can you share your NB - HT link voltages for OC ?


My CPU is OC to 3.8GHz with 1.325V.
NB at 3000MHz with 1.325V.
HT at 2000MHz with "Auto" voltage.


----------



## DJ_OXyGeNe_8

Ok thanks, here is my stabil last OC settings (No Voltage)

CPU 3996
NB 2442
HT 2442
Ram 1480

Actually my ram is 1600 and before was using at 1566 and windows 7 point was 7.6. But with new setting it's 7.7 (9.9.9.24 Unganged)

Cpu frequency 222

And any news for 890FXA-UD5 Rev 2.1, for new bulldozer support? No chance for it?


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_OXyGeNe_8*
> 
> Ok thanks, here is my stabil last OC settings (No Voltage)
> CPU 3996
> NB 2442
> HT 2442
> Ram 1480
> Actually my ram is 1600 and before was using at 1566 and windows 7 point was 7.6. But with new setting it's 7.7 (9.9.9.24 Unganged)
> Cpu frequency 222
> And any news for 890FXA-UD5 Rev 2.1, for new bulldozer support? No chance for it?


Why not try bumping up to a CPU frequency of 250? I could do that on my 1090T just fine (F6 bios, 2.0 board)

HT I left alone at 2000, and NB I bumped to 2500 without issue. Both never required extra voltage.

I was able to do 3.75 Ghz on bone stock CPU volts with my chip, and I imagine the 1055s will do pretty similar. Still, I'd be happy with 4.0 Ghz, although I really didn't notice much gain from 3.75 to 4.0. The UD5 left an overall bad taste for me, and I switched to an Asus board...which died about a month ago. So far I've pretty much had a 100% failure rate across the board (no pun), ranging from MSI, Asus, and Gigabyte. Pretty much the big three in AM3 land.

At least I can console myself with the me-too SB build...


----------



## UNTEngineer

Just looking to get added to the club.

Ive got one of these for my rig, but never really bothered with overclocking, etc.


----------



## Dhalgren65

GA-890FXA-UD5,bios FB
I recently had PS issue(loose connections at 8 pin pcie on card 1,XFX 6870 from crossfire setup)
Caused tearing,loss of crossfire.
had to keep jiggling 8 pin connection to PS(UltraX3-750)
Finally I realised PS 8 pin female was loose,almost halfway out of PS-I pushed real hard,it went into place.
I guess heat cycling,vibration,or tension on 8 pin wiring was allowing it to continually come loose.
PITA,I swapped in an Ultra 4X- 1000.
Now here is the fun part.
When I power on,I wait for beep, & attempt to get to BIOS(press/hold DEL key)
Bios does not show.
Black screen,klicks while holding down or repeating DEL Key,but no post/bios.
Eventually,will go to starting windows,then to desktop.
To get to BIOS I have to clear CMOS,reset all BIOS settings & see if it will fire up.
Reset button blacks screen,gets 1 beep,same.
If I try to hold DEL key after reset,no windows ever comes up...
Is my BIOS corrupted?


----------



## Dazwaz

Hi Guys,

New member here and somewhat clueless about hardware but just getting into it.

I am looking to upgrade my RAM on this mobo.

Currently have Kingston 1333 3x2gb - looking to upgrade to something like G.Skill 8GB Kit (2 x 4GB)DDR3-2133 Dual Channel CL9 - what do you guys think?

On the motherboard page in the gigabyte website it states to achieve a higher speed than 18xx you need to install it on dd3 3 + 4 sockets.

So would I just simply be removing the old ram and replacing them with these two sticks in the aforementioned sockets on the mobo?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I think it'd be a bit of a waste. From my experiences with the board and a 1090T, Even 1600 RAM was starting to get on the side of overkill. 2133...the board _might_ do it, but I wouldn't trust it, and the performance benefit will be negligible.


----------



## Dazwaz

Thanks Unexploded,

How about a 4x4 gb 1600?

I have a amd phenom x6 1100T if that helps any...


----------



## Dazwaz

anyonneee?


----------



## truckerguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazwaz*
> 
> anyonneee?


your 1090T has a IMC= internal menory controller set at 1600 Mhz and if you don't over clock using the FBS you dont need ram over 1600 if you over clock just using mutiplyer as far as amount of ram unless your editing video the most you need is 8 gig and you can have a higher over clock with using just 2 slots


----------



## xd_1771

Hey, guys. Is there anything I should know about unlocking on the UD5 rev3.1?

I happen to have run across one on Craigslist for a really good price and I've decided I'll splurge in favour of it over a sitting around ASUS M4A77TD which among other things like older chipset, doesn't have a very well cooled (nor beefy) VRM setup which'll need to power an unlocked x2 555 (intending to OC). I'd like to take my dad's new second office build up a notch with the clock speed as well. AFAIK there is no UCC thus the unlocking process is a bit different. Is there anything I should know i.e. challenges, lower unlock rates?

You guys'd be jealous, and my dad will be happy. The whole thing when completed will be an unlocked/OC'ed 555 + GA-890FXA-UD5 + 8GB DDR3-1600 + Zotac GTX 460 768MB + Antec NEO ECO 450C PSU + Antec One case + Seagate 7200.11 1TB HDD for under $300 CAD. Probably my most impressive cost-cutter powerhouse yet. Don't ask how I got the deals


----------



## UnexplodedCow

AMD rated the IMC to handle 1333 speeds with 4 DIMMs filled, if I remember. Doing 1600 is gravy, but I have not heard of any Thuban-based chip being unable to do so.


----------



## MGF Derp

Any of the regulars in this thread can you tell me if the non Rev 3.1 UD5 aka the white socket one can support bulldozer? I would search but I am pressed for time. Thank you.


----------



## Blitz6804

Yes and no. It can be done with a Beta BIOS, said BIOS isn't on the website... you have to email Gigabyte for it.


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*
> 
> Yes and no. It can be done with a Beta BIOS, said BIOS isn't on the website... you have to email Gigabyte for it.


Thanks for the reply. Is it similar to the Asus beat bios for their 800 series boards? That dont have the crossover black socket.


----------



## Blitz6804

I lack the context and knowledge to comment.


----------



## hesho

kinda curious.. what's a good bios for a 1090T on this mobo?


----------



## schmidtbag

Anyone see if the 8 core Bulldozers work yet in the F7e BIOS for rev 2.0? I would be surprised if it didn't, I'd just like to know for sure - by the time I need to upgrade my Athlon II x3 455 (yes, I actually have something that crappy, but I got it to 3.8 and I have yet to max it out in the tasks I do) I'm sure someone is bound to test it or Piledriver might be released. Speaking of which, does anyone think PD would work on F7e? I'm more inclined to get PD considering the amount of changes and improvements going into it.

BTW, I'm thankful this forum exists. If I didn't find the F7e BIOS I'd pretty much be doomed with this crappy CPU and this nice mobo - pretty much all black edition Phenom II x6s are out of stock or strangely overpriced. I'm not sure why some people think the F6 BIOS has problems - for me it works great.

In case anyone was wondering, I got the Athlon II because I was on a serious budget and wanted to gamble if I could unlock the 4th core safely. I can, but only under 32 bit Windows. Considering I use 64 bit linux 95% of the time, I guess I got what I paid for.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho*
> 
> kinda curious.. what's a good bios for a 1090T on this mobo?


I had the best luck with F6, although most here used F3. I will say F6 with a Deneb based CPU is a no-go, and will not run properly at all. F3 works just fine on it.


----------



## urmelus

Hi guys,

does anybody now, if there is a newer Beta-Bios for 890FXA-UD5 (rev 2.0) than F7e?

I got AMD (Ati) Driver-Error (VGA) during playing Games (World of Tanks & World of Warcraft)
since my BIOS update

going back to F6 seams to solved this problem

thank You


----------



## jayred

Hi,
I have a Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 currently running phenom II 965 black edition (OC to 3.9ghz), I was considering upgrading to an AMD FX 4-Core Black Edition FX-4170. Will the new FX be compatible with my UD7 board???

Cheers,
Justin


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jayred*
> 
> Hi,
> I have a Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 currently running phenom II 965 black edition (OC to 3.9ghz), I was considering upgrading to an AMD FX 4-Core Black Edition FX-4170. Will the new FX be compatible with my UD7 board???
> Cheers,
> Justin


Save your money, that isn't an upgrade.

That said, Piledriver is coming out soon- but that would more than likely require a new board (even if it is socket compatible with 890FX).


----------



## pony-tail

I have a UD5 , my sig rig and the boot hard drive - a Samsung 750 gig , has failed ( no longer spins) .
What is the current hard drive of choice for this mobo ?
Currently I am looking at a Western Digital -
Quote:


> Western Digital 1TB SATA3 64M(WD1002FAEX)
> Internet Price: $115.00
> Retail Price: $125.00
> Stock level: >10 (Plenty of Stock)
> Model #: WD1002FAEX


Does anybody have any better suggestions ?


----------



## hesho

besides a SSD, looks good to me IMHO


----------



## urmelus

If You have an second funktionaly Harddrive with enought space,
by a SSD for the OS

with my 890fxa-ud5
a samsung 830 ssd with 128gb works very fine for me


----------



## Incubi

hello guys,

I have a Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 (rev. 2.1) , i have a question why when i run a bios F5 beta i test my pc and my punctuation was 7.5

now 3 days ago i update to F4 and i run the evaluation of windows and now my punctuation is 7.2 =(

i try to download again the F5F bios but now is no longer available on the website of gigabyte =(

with F5F --->



with F4 --->



Edit: the board is (rev. 2.1)

thanks for any info


----------



## Galas

Searched the thread but could'nt find any information.

Has anyone been able to use 16 or 32 GB using 8GB sticks on the 890FXA UD5?

Currently using 4x4GB Kingston HyperX 1600Mhz (CAS 9 - 1.65v) . I've swapped them for 2x8GB Kingston HyperX 1600Mhz (CAS 10 - 1.5v) but keep booting with default settings. Even after manually setting them on BIOS at 1600 cas 10, 1333 cas 9 or 10, etc.

Any heads up?

Thanks in advance


----------



## splatoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Galas*
> 
> Searched the thread but could'nt find any information.
> Has anyone been able to use 16 or 32 GB using 8GB sticks on the 890FXA UD5?
> Currently using 4x4GB Kingston HyperX 1600Mhz (CAS 9 - 1.65v) . I've swapped them for 2x8GB Kingston HyperX 1600Mhz (CAS 10 - 1.5v) but keep booting with default settings. Even after manually setting them on BIOS at 1600 cas 10, 1333 cas 9 or 10, etc.
> Any heads up?
> Thanks in advance


I'm running 4X8 gig sticks of Ripjaws X series that on my UD7 but I'm not sure of the differences between these boards. The board recognized them with the proper settings right off.


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Incubi*
> 
> hello guys,
> I have a Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 (rev. 2.1) , i have a question why when i run a bios F5 beta i test my pc and my punctuation was 7.5
> now 3 days ago i update to F4 and i run the evaluation of windows and now my punctuation is 7.2 =(
> i try to download again the F5F bios but now is no longer available on the website of gigabyte =(
> with F5F --->
> 
> with F4 --->
> 
> Edit: the board is (rev. 2.1)
> thanks for any info


You are using SSD as bootdrive, right?
connected to the onboard sata3 controller

perhaps there will be a lower AHCI Bios version
or the default bios option has other settings?
(AHCI off) with F4 BIOS


----------



## Incubi

Hello Urmelus,

thanks for reply,

Yes i using SSD as bootdrive connected to sata 3 controller, i just check the bios settings and i see for no reason the bios f4 change the setting HD to "*native setting*"
so i change again to mode: *AHCI* on

i test the evaluation and my score get up again to 7.5

ty


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *splatoid*
> 
> I'm running 4X8 gig sticks of Ripjaws X series that on my UD7 but I'm not sure of the differences between these boards. The board recognized them with the proper settings right off.


I am running 2 x Kingston 8 gig but they are only 1333 mhz (KVR1333D3N9/8G )
If that helps
Edit = Quoted the wrong post -sorry - do not know how to fix it .
Searched the thread but could'nt find any information.
@ Galas
Quote:


> Has anyone been able to use 16 or 32 GB using 8GB sticks on the 890FXA UD5?
> Currently using 4x4GB Kingston HyperX 1600Mhz (CAS 9 - 1.65v) . I've swapped them for 2x8GB Kingston HyperX 1600Mhz (CAS 10 - 1.5v) but keep booting with default settings. Even after manually setting them on BIOS at 1600 cas 10, 1333 cas 9 or 10, etc.


That is the closest I can get to fixing it


----------



## schmidtbag

I have the UD5 rev 2.0 and tried the F7e BIOS and it made my motherboard a vegetable. I THINK the problem was I turned the computer off before the 2ndary BIOS kicked in, because I tried uploading it earlier and it failed but took a few seconds to recover. Thankfully it was still within warranty so I got it fixed, but when I got my board back it was getting increasingly unstable every time I booted up until it became permanently unresponsive to anything. It used to work perfectly fine, so their technicians must've handled it improperly. I noticed the heatsinks were slightly misaligned too so they might've done something to it. Anyways, I had to send it in, again, and they gave me a brand new board that works just fine. Unfortunatley it's still rev 2.0.

I was wondering, does anybody have any idea why this happened? I used @BIOS and the ezflash built into the moob and neither worked. I'm also wondering if anyone knows if the piledriver CPUs work with it, or at least the FX8150.


----------



## pony-tail

Have any UD7 owners on here attempted to fit a UD7 board in a Lian Li PC6B Case ?
I am about to resurrect 2 of my old machines a UD7 and a UD5 . I have long since sold the case I had the UD7 in but found that the Lian Li P6B has 8 PCI slots and is pretty much standard mid tower size - Lian Li does not list them as XL-ATX but the motherboard tray appears to be of suitable size .
I have ordered 2 of these cases , and was wondering if anybody on here has tried to use one with a UD7 .
The motherboards and CPUs are left overs from recent upgrades and are about to be sentenced to seeing their lives out doing office drudgery ( saves me buying new machines to do a job that these will do with CPU cycles to spare ) An ignominious end to what were once quite decent machines .


----------



## pony-tail

Here is a link to the case - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=25_30_394&products_id=17840


----------



## Blitz6804

After having it slowly decaying over the past year and a half, I finally RMAed my UD5. We'll see if Gigabyte is good to me, or if they refuse to repair it. Or worse, they flash a BIOS that destroys my RAID when I reinstall.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*
> 
> After having it slowly decaying over the past year and a half, I finally RMAed my UD5. We'll see if Gigabyte is good to me, or if they refuse to repair it. Or worse, they flash a BIOS that destroys my RAID when I reinstall.


What went wrong with it ?


----------



## Blitz6804

Been getting progressively less stable. (Hard-locks of death with occasional BSODs.) Lately now, its been tossing all sorts of RAID errors and occasionally will lose USB devices.


----------



## pony-tail

Sounds like a failing south bridge .
Luckily I have had no issues with either my UD5 or UD7 - Thats why I am about to put them back into service .
The performance difference between an 890FXA UD5 and a 990FXA UD5 with an 1100t is about 0 .


----------



## Blitz6804

I *hope* we're having a failure to communicate. Their latest email seems to indicate that you cannot use RAID 10 and RAID 1 in the same computer. They claim that is what is causing the problem. (Despite the fact that it was unstable before I added the RAID 1 drives.)


----------



## pony-tail

Unstable as in BSOD , Freezes or random reboots ?
I was getting random reboots , turned out mine (the UD5 and the UD7 ) did not like Geil ram that worked fine on an Asus board .
P.S.







I just got my UD5 back up about an hour ago - in its nice new Lian Li PC-6B case


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> I have the UD5 rev 2.0 and tried the F7e BIOS and it made my motherboard a vegetable. I THINK the problem was I turned the computer off before the 2ndary BIOS kicked in, because I tried uploading it earlier and it failed but took a few seconds to recover. Thankfully it was still within warranty so I got it fixed, but when I got my board back it was getting increasingly unstable every time I booted up until it became permanently unresponsive to anything. It used to work perfectly fine, so their technicians must've handled it improperly. I noticed the heatsinks were slightly misaligned too so they might've done something to it. Anyways, I had to send it in, again, and they gave me a brand new board that works just fine. Unfortunatley it's still rev 2.0.
> I was wondering, does anybody have any idea why this happened? I used @BIOS and the ezflash built into the moob and neither worked. I'm also wondering if anyone knows if the piledriver CPUs work with it, or at least the FX8150.


I don't have the board anymore, moved on the an Alienware M18xR2, but when I did have it, I updated the BIOS to the F7e and had no issues with the running my FX8150. Must have been a bad flash


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> I don't have the board anymore, moved on the an Alienware M18xR2, but when I did have it, I updated the BIOS to the F7e and had no issues with the running my FX8150. Must have been a bad flash


See, I thought it was a bad flash too, but I flashed it like 3 times. Each time the computer would restart about 5 times in a row before POSTing and then it would revert back to the old BIOS. I think, but can't prove, that my board failed because I held down the power button when it was doing that looping reboot thing (it takes a while for it to stop doing that). Now that I have this replacement mobo, I wonder if maybe it'll work properly this time around but I'm not sure if I should take the chance again.

What utility did you flash with? Did you get the F7e BIOS from this forum topic or elsewhere?

Also, thanks for pointing out that the FX8150 works. I hope the FX8350 will work too, but I'm sure it would.


----------



## trog

Hmm have a mate on a UD7 : any updates if Vishera is good to go with these?


----------



## pony-tail

They had a beta bios for Bulldozer but to my knowledge nothing for Vishera


----------



## pali

I loaded BIOS version F3 and for some reason, my PC keeps turning itself on. I shut down the computer the proper way and about 30 seconds later, the PC turns itself on again! I made sure there were no boot on lan options enabled. I am not sure what to do. And I also tried F6. I get a RAM based BSOD with F6. I just installed a fresh copy of Windows 7. I have rev. 2.0. Any suggestions from the experts? Thank you!


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*
> 
> Been getting progressively less stable. (Hard-locks of death with occasional BSODs.) Lately now, its been tossing all sorts of RAID errors and occasionally will lose USB devices.


I let the GF have my old UD5, and it ran a 965 140w Deneb just fine, and about a couple months ago it threw another RAM based BSOD that also involved the video card. Updating drivers helped for about a day, and it came back. Swapped out the RAM (Gskill 2x4 1333 stuff) and put in the Corsair RAM the board worked well enough with, and stability is back. Why the board took well over a year to decide to crap on the RAM is beyond me. I tested the RAM in the now backup Asus with 1090T in it works fine, and perfectly stable.

The GF previously was using a UD3 that went into a family member's build, and that thing has been 100% solid since day one. The UD5 has always been another story, though, and I feel like it's impending doom.

Regarding someone asking about hard drives...never had a problem with any hard drive size up to 2TB with this board. The only real problems I've had across a couple boards has been RAM related, regardless of CPU. Swap to another motherboard (RAM or CPU) and the problem never returns. The process of elimination favors the 2.0 UD5 being unstable. The 2nd board was not overclocked, so I know that's not the cause, either.

Mostly I think this board is super flaky on RAM, even modules specifically listed as compatible on Gigabyte's QVL list. However, I do remember that they wouldn't stand by their list, only citing it as a "reference of what might be more stable," and not what was actually tested, in essence (or at least in my opinion) disavowing any accuracy to their claims.

If the board is working for people, that is a good thing, and I hope they don't have issues.

Also, if people have some issues with the board, they can always PM me. I might not know the answer, but I can at least speculate. God knows I had enough problems out of mine to have some troubleshooting experience.


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urmelus*
> 
> Hi guys,
> does anybody now, if there is a newer Beta-Bios for 890FXA-UD5 (rev 2.0) than F7e?
> I got AMD (Ati) Driver-Error (VGA) during playing Games (World of Tanks & World of Warcraft)
> since my BIOS update
> going back to F6 seams to solved this problem
> thank You


problem found!
disable" AMD C1E Support" in BIOS Advanced options

problem occours if it´s a Phenom2 CPU
and a Radeon 5870

bulldozer not tested
but with radeon 4890 and C1E enabled: no problems

System:
Phenom II 965 (C3)
Sapphire Radeon 5870


----------



## Blitz6804

Final update on the issue... called tech, they said they flashed it to F4, and found nothing wrong. I get the board, it's actually F6. Remember, Gigabyte Tech Support has told me not to put anything newer on it than F3 unless I have Bulldozer. Oh, and it's still broken. Except now I have to wait 20 seconds longer for it to boot because of how long it takes to detect the RAIDs.

I've now gotten a refund processed, so it is going to be replaced with an Intel LGA1155 system. After 14 years of using AMD, I have to call it quits.


----------



## UnexplodedCow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*
> 
> Final update on the issue... called tech, they said they flashed it to F4, and found nothing wrong. I get the board, it's actually F6. Remember, Gigabyte Tech Support has told me not to put anything newer on it than F3 unless I have Bulldozer. Oh, and it's still broken. Except now I have to wait 20 seconds longer for it to boot because of how long it takes to detect the RAIDs.
> I've now gotten a refund processed, so it is going to be replaced with an Intel LGA1155 system. After 14 years of using AMD, I have to call it quits.


This sounds like the same problem I had when shipping to them. I sent them a board loaded with F3, and they claimed F1. Sent back a board loaded with F2, which I was lucky to even get to boot with the 1090T. I find it odd that they suggest above F3 with Bulldozer, as I had the least problems with F6 on Thuban, and F3 on Deneb.

While I like rooting for the underdog (10 years AMD myself) I went with an 1155 system as well, as can be seen in my signature. Honestly, I have had one issue out of it; after relocating I had to reseat the video card. The only other issue was me pushing the overclock a little too hard and corrupting the SSD. Those are the only two issues in about a year. I can't claim such an easy time in AMD territory, ever, sadly enough.

Overall it sounds like Gigabyte treated you very similarly to how it went for me, and that's also a shame. I still won't buy Gigabyte.

I hope your time with an Intel system goes as smoothly as mine has, Blitz.


----------



## SQLServerSteve

I've been using a GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev. 2.0 for roughly a year and a half now. Back when I bought it, the specs said you could put in four sticks of RAM for a total of 16 GB, but at the time 8 gigabyte sticks weren't common, so I'm hoping that limit was arbitrary. I was just wondering if anybody could tell me definitely whether or not I can put 8 gigabyte sticks in each slot or not? I've got 8 gigs in two slots at present and now have a need for more RAM for some memory-intensive programs I'm running (I'm maxing out the 8 gigs and getting a lot of paging), so I'm hoping I can put in an extra 16 gigs in my two empty memory slots instead of just 8. That might help me squeeze more life out of this great motherboard before I need to upgrade to an AM3+ or whatever.

Thanks in advance,

-- Steve

P.S. Also, would be worth the extra $ to invest in faster RAM, such as DDR3 2133 instead of 1333, if I've already got two 1333 sticks installed? I'm not really up to speed on the ins-and-outs of memory hardware, so any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## Blitz6804

I do not know about putting higher capacity sticks in there... but I do know about speed. All your RAM will run at the same speed, so whether you put DDR3-1600 or DDR3-2133 in there, if you leave your DDR3-1333 in there, you will not be able to reach the full potential of the higher-speed stuff.


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitz6804*
> 
> I do not know about putting higher capacity sticks in there... but I do know about speed. All your RAM will run at the same speed, so whether you put DDR3-1600 or DDR3-2133 in there, if you leave your DDR3-1333 in there, you will not be able to reach the full potential of the higher-speed stuff.


right, I had similar expirience
remember, the memeory-controller comes with Your CPU,
so there is Your main ponit, Phenom 2 supports (official) max DDR3-1333
and thats also my stable maximum speed with 2x4GB DDR3-1600 modules

*other Question:*

*Did any body already try Vishera CPU with F7e BIOS?*

edit 3/6/13:
I did some homework with AMD FX 8150
I am not able to run my G.Skill DDR3-1600 like b2082863
but with no problems 1600 with an ASUS M5A78 and my old Phenom2 965!

seams to be the mainboard, or I am tooo noooby
I also tried GeIL EVO Corsa DDR3-2133 with auto settings
(JEDEC/SPD default is 1600) - this works fine with 1600;
1866 (Mainboard maximum) - I did not found any way to get it work


----------



## Dazwaz

Looking to upgrade my cpu from phenom x6 1100T to something much nicer - what would be your suggestions compatible with this mobo?


----------



## b2082863

A picture tells a thousand words!

890FX with 32GB RAM @ 1600

Rev. 1.0 F6

Memtest86+/LinX stable

All BIOS setting set to Auto (Voltages/SPD)


----------



## schmidtbag

@urmelus

I too am interested in this. Considering the changes between Vishera and Zambezi, I have a feeling it won't work, but I'd like to be proven wrong.


----------



## i544cj0n35

Hello everyone! New member here. I have a few questions, and I'll try to be brief.

I've had my 890fxa-ud5 for about a year and a half. Always had an AMD video card in it but have decided to go with NVidia now. I also wanted to SLI it, however I realize that the board doesn't support that.

In the past few days I've read about an "SLI Patch/hack" and something called "HyperSLI". Everything I've read has been pretty old tho, from about the time that I bought my board.

So my questions were these: Are these patches/hacks still valid? If so, where can I get them? (I'm afraid I actually haven't found these patches at all. Its been hard browsing on a phone for them







.

Any help is appreciated, many thanks!


----------



## i544cj0n35

Is this what I'm looking for?


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazwaz*
> 
> Looking to upgrade my cpu from phenom x6 1100T to something much nicer - what would be your suggestions compatible with this mobo?


AMD FX 8150 is known possible and works stable
(I did this change some days ago)
Vishera not tested

Save Your money, Your 1100T seams to be the best for this System


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b2082863*
> 
> A picture tells a thousand words!
> 
> 890FX with 32GB RAM @ 1600
> 
> Rev. 1.0 F6
> 
> Memtest86+/LinX stable
> 
> All BIOS setting set to Auto (Voltages/SPD)


Yes! also 1866 Works well
I recently kicked out my series of G.Skill modules and
bought Patriot Viper3 Black Mamaba 2x 8GB 2133

set manually the Vendor AMD Memory Profile (!) settings from dem modules
at 1866MhZ, and it works very fine


----------



## Dr Nick

So the F6 BIOS adds compatibility for 8GB DIMMS? I was just looking for info on this. Thanks.


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Nick*
> 
> So the F6 BIOS adds compatibility for 8GB DIMMS? I was just looking for info on this. Thanks.


the User "b2082863" uses F6 BIOS, His screenshots shows that it seams to work.

I am using F7e, and I can say, YES it works without problems


----------



## schmidtbag

So I'm thinking of doing everyone with the rev 2.0 board a favor by buying a Vishera CPU and let you all know if it works, but I'm still considering waiting for Steamroller, since the changes to it seem pretty promising and I'd rather not buy a 2nd CPU within the same year (I've been using the one I have now for about 3 years).

Anybody have opinions on whether or not SR will work on the 800 series chipsets? I did some googling and I can't seem to get a definite answer. It appears to be compatible with the 900 series, but no word on 800. Considering the F7e beta BIOS was designed for Bulldozer, there might be too many changes with SR for it to work, then again, I have the same concern about Piledriver. The only difference is PD is really just a bunch of tweaks and improvements, SR seems to be architecturally different.


----------



## schmidtbag

So I'd like everyone to know that I got the FX-6300 today and it does in fact work on the rev 2.0 board with F7e BIOS. I haven't overclocked yet but I'm getting features that I thought the 800 series chipset didn't have, such as turbo mode and wattage sensor. I haven't overclocked yet and I haven't done too many strenuous tests, but I thought I'd just let people know that Piledriver does in fact work just fine.


----------



## gringott

I am interested, please keep us informed. Thank you.


----------



## schmidtbag

I managed to overclock to 4.4GHz, with Cool'n'Quiet enabled and C1E disabled - only used multiplier (seems with these CPUs, messing with the FSB doesn't accomplish much). With C'n'Q on, I can get to 4.5GHz but the 4th core (and only the 4th...) fails at prime95. I personally seemed to get bad luck getting to 4.6 even without C'n'Q, but I might not have pushed the voltage high enough for that. Personally, I'd rather lose the extra 200MHz if it means I get to keep C'n'Q on for better power efficiency. I managed to get as high as 4.86GHz but obviously that was unstable, though not as unstable as you'd think; I didn't attempt to go higher but I'm sure I could.

I can't remember the voltage settings I applied off the top of my head, but you mostly only need to increase the CPU and northbridge voltages a couple notches. I think my CPU voltage is around 1.45v. With my heatsink, I don't get much beyond 50C under 100% load. Hope this helps. Overall, it looks like you can get a pretty typical overclock with the F7e BIOS, but with more tinkering you can probably get a good one (like 4.6). So far the OC capability is nothing amazing but not too shabby either.

If I inspired anyone to get PD for this board, I'd like to know what results you got and what settings you used.


----------



## neroneuk

Hi, are there any bios to allow me to use NVidia SLI for my GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 2.1) ?? Any help would be great and where can I get them if it is the case??
Anyway, what are the latest unofficial bios I can install and what do they do?? And again, where can I get it??
Thank You

edit: just found a program called HYPERSLI 0.96 and works like a treat with my 2xgtx660. the 0.90 was not working with window 8. well, I would still look for a proper bios if anyone can help and obviously I was wondering what are the drawbacks by using this HIPERSLI 0.96. Anyway is there anything later than the 0.96version?? looks like this was made a couple of years ago.

edit: a bit of a time wasting making these 2xgtx660 get the full frame rate but the sli works anyway. My 965 seems to be a bit week for these gpu's in sli even at 4200mhz. Could see that at certain point of the game, Crysis 2 MP in this case, was dropping frames all at once. Done the same tests on my 3770k rig and it seems that in the same situation it needs to be under clocked down to 2200mhz, no HT, to be in the same situation and similar power compared to the amd965 at 4200mhz.


----------



## hesho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> I managed to overclock to 4.4GHz, with Cool'n'Quiet enabled and C1E disabled - only used multiplier (seems with these CPUs, messing with the FSB doesn't accomplish much). With C'n'Q on, I can get to 4.5GHz but the 4th core (and only the 4th...) fails at prime95. I personally seemed to get bad luck getting to 4.6 even without C'n'Q, but I might not have pushed the voltage high enough for that. Personally, I'd rather lose the extra 200MHz if it means I get to keep C'n'Q on for better power efficiency. I managed to get as high as 4.86GHz but obviously that was unstable, though not as unstable as you'd think; I didn't attempt to go higher but I'm sure I could.
> 
> I can't remember the voltage settings I applied off the top of my head, but you mostly only need to increase the CPU and northbridge voltages a couple notches. I think my CPU voltage is around 1.45v. With my heatsink, I don't get much beyond 50C under 100% load. Hope this helps. Overall, it looks like you can get a pretty typical overclock with the F7e BIOS, but with more tinkering you can probably get a good one (like 4.6). So far the OC capability is nothing amazing but not too shabby either.
> 
> If I inspired anyone to get PD for this board, I'd like to know what results you got and what settings you used.


curious, what do did you upgrade from? Also, where the heck did you get the bios from anyway? I emailed gigabyte asking for it and they said they cannot provide it to the end user.


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho*
> 
> curious, what do did you upgrade from? Also, where the heck did you get the bios from anyway? I emailed gigabyte asking for it and they said they cannot provide it to the end user.


I upgraded from a Athlon II x3, F6 BIOS, rev 2.0 board. The F7e BIOS is buried somewhere in this topoc, within the last 20 pages or so but I honestly don't remember where, sorry. Just keep going back each page and search for "F7e" and I'm sure you'll find it. I personally don't have the ROM for it. I too emailed Gigabyte and they never gave it to me either.


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> ... I too emailed Gigabyte and they never gave it to me either.


You emailed them? I think You have to register at Gigabyte website and oben an question
and normaly it´s no porblem to get the beta BIOS file.
Gigabyte answeres within some days

http://ggts.gigabyte.com.tw
different languages are supported

BIOS File direct from Gigabyte
http://ggts.gigabyte.eu/FileList/1304500/89fxau52.f7e


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> So I'd like everyone to know that I got the FX-6300 today and it does in fact work on the rev 2.0 board with F7e BIOS. I haven't overclocked yet but I'm getting features that I thought the 800 series chipset didn't have, such as turbo mode and wattage sensor. I haven't overclocked yet and I haven't done too many strenuous tests, but I thought I'd just let people know that Piledriver does in fact work just fine.


very nice to read this news, thank You for posting


----------



## neroneuk

cancelled


----------



## neroneuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urmelus*
> 
> You emailed them? I think You have to register at Gigabyte website and oben an question
> and normaly it´s no porblem to get the beta BIOS file.
> Gigabyte answeres within some days
> 
> http://ggts.gigabyte.com.tw
> different languages are supported
> 
> BIOS File direct from Gigabyte
> http://ggts.gigabyte.eu/FileList/1304500/89fxau52.f7e


is this ok for rev.2.1 and where suppose to be the TURBO function???


----------



## gringott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neroneuk*
> 
> is this ok for rev.2.1 and where suppose to be the TURBO function???


I have rev 2.1 also, anyone have experience with flashing the 7e bios and board revision 2.1?

Thanks.


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urmelus*
> 
> You emailed them? I think You have to register at Gigabyte website and oben an question
> and normaly it´s no porblem to get the beta BIOS file.
> Gigabyte answeres within some days
> 
> http://ggts.gigabyte.com.tw
> different languages are supported
> 
> BIOS File direct from Gigabyte
> http://ggts.gigabyte.eu/FileList/1304500/89fxau52.f7e


Well no I didn't email them directly, I used their online help service:


Looks like this guy was just being lazy - the CPU slid perfectly into my socket with no resistance haha.


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neroneuk*
> 
> is this ok for rev.2.1 and where suppose to be the TURBO function???


Turbo settings show up in the overclocking section of the BIOS, which IMO is convenient since you'll want to turn it off when OCing. I'm personally not sure if F7e will work on rev 2.1 but someone on this topic said it should work on all white sockets. Personally, I would disagree since that should mean the rev 3.0 BIOS would work on the 2.1 and 2.0, which AFAIK, it doesn't.

Since this board has a dual-BIOS recovery system, you could try upgrading to F7e with your current CPU. If it works, then great, you lucked out. If it doesn't, you'll just end up with your old BIOS. Just as a FYI, if the BIOS update fails, do NOT shut off or press the reset button - let it attempt to recover on its own.


----------



## gringott

I flashed my 2.1 mb bios with 7e and it works without issue.
Thanks for the info guys.


----------



## Black Flag

F7e is better and stable than F6.
Now every time I boot, doesn't says me on post that overclocking failed. (CPU at 3,6 GHz, memory at 1600 MHz with stock voltages, Phenom II 1090T)


----------



## UnexplodedCow

I'm glad someone tried out F7e with a Thuban. As it stands, my old board is coming back to me (much to my chagrin). GF's computer is just acting up, and unreliable. I believe the board is the cause, primarily RAM and USB issues. Go figure...I always had RAM issues out of the thing.

Anyway, regarding Gigabyte's response about AM3+ chips; I am not entirely surprised by this. In 2010 I had issues with the board, and Gigabyte blamed the RAM entirely, ultimately stating the QVL for RAM was just to reference, and did not mean any of the RAM modules on that list actually worked with the board. I may still have the response somewhere.

It'll be fun to get my hands dirty again with an AMD system. It's been too long in the land o' Intel. Maybe I'll get lucky with the new BIOS and have perfect stability.


----------



## Black Flag

Yes I had ram issues in the past, and now seems to be stable. Also I had USB issues with the Nikon software and the control of camera through remote. No it's solved. So it was instability of memory? I'm using 4x4GB modules and 16GB RAM (Kingston Hyper X Beast 4x4GB DDR3 Non ECC CL11 2133MHz).

This Thuban is a beast, in my other setup (Crosshair V Formula and Corsair H100) the Thuban reached easily the 4,2 GHz area with FSB Bus speed at 250 MHz!!! But I bought FX 8350, but we have two systems in the house.


----------



## By-Tor

.


----------



## gringott

I was suprised when I loaded a chart about the 2.1 revision of the UD5 and at the bottom it had this:

Socket AM3+ Motherboard Model GA-890FXA-UD5 PCB 2.1

FX-6350 - FX-4350 - FX-4130

So it officially supports the FX-6350. I think I might pick one up and have some fun.


----------



## Tugz

wrong post thread.


----------



## schmidtbag

hmm that's interesting. The rev 2.0 board says the same. But, it doesn't say which bios revision is supported. You better pull out the F7e BIOS just in case.


----------



## roger3636

Hello All
I just bought a cheap FX4170 for my trusty old 890fxa ud7 only to find out its not supported







what should i do ask gigabyte for support?


----------



## schmidtbag

Honestly, I don't think you'll get much luck from Gigabyte. You could try seeing if the F7e BIOS will work but I wouldn't count on it - might cause you more harm than good, but I'm really not sure.


----------



## sneezzer

Need some help ....

The local PC shop had a special on Seagate 3TB drives, so I thought I would add a raid 5 cluster (4 + spare) on the 6GB sata ports of my GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev. 2.1) ... I have my OS (Server 2008 R2) is on the JMicron configured as raid 0 ... so my question is strickly related to the SB850 6GB sata ports

I plugged the 3TB drives into the SB850 sata ports, no problem, all 5 drives showed up in windows disk manager ... configured them as soft raid 5, checked alignment and benchmarked. Really, really bad performance results. So I reconfigured as Raid 0 & 1, benchmarked each and ran much better at +300MB/s xfer&#8230; but when I when back to raid 5 &#8230;. really slow results ???

So next I tried hardware raid through the SB850, the controller recognized the drives, I created the raid 5 cluster and initialized, checked the status &#8230; 12Tb cluster. But when I boot into the OS, Windows disk manager still sees the 5 drives as individual drives in raw state. I swapped the drives with a bunch of old 320Gb, configured as raid on the SB850, booted into Windows and disk manager shows as one drive ... so why do the 320 GB work, but not the 3TB drives ???? ( I normally run a raid 10 with 4 - 1Tb on the 6GB interfaces with no problem )

Is the lack of EFI support in the ver 2.1 bios (F6) causing this ?

I tried the F7e BIOS, but during boot, the screen for the JMicron raid is accessible, but NOT the SB850 raid, You can just see the first line of text (less than ~300 ms) appear of the raid detection from the SB controller and the it jumps directly to loading OS &#8230; so back to F6 bios

Thoughts ?
Any other solution in these 404 pages that I missed ?

***** UPDATE *****

Issue resolved, after updating the AMD Raid driver (hardware) to current level available, enabled hardware raid controller in Bios (but NOT defining a Raid cluster, not defining the drives as raid), and using AMD's RaidXpert to build the raid cluster, all is working properly 

While the write speed is not as fast as a single drive or Raid 0, it does test at an average of ~100MB across Raid 5 with 5 X 3TB Seagate drives which for me works good enough for media storage. The read speed averages ~350MB. I even added a spare standby spare and tested failure ... works perfectly.

For those of you complaining about the initial Synchronization time ... 15TB took ~40 hours and rebuild time (switch to spare drive) took ~10 hours with very loss in write/read speed.

Thanks for the suggestions to those who replied and yes, a PCI-E controller would be better. But after spending $$$ on 6 x 3TB drives, I was out of cash

cheers
snezz


----------



## gringott

Have you checked to see if there is a size limitation on HDD for creating the RAID? There might be a RAID chip firmware update to accomadate drives >2TB. Just a thought.


----------



## schmidtbag

@snezzer
RAID 5 isn't really geared toward performance, and tends to be pretty crappy on built-in controllers. If I were you, I'd just buy another one of those drives and do RAID 10.

Maybe one way to prove if the RAID controller is working properly is to try using ext4 or btrfs in a linux live CD and configure it using dmraid. There is a possibility Windows has some limitation - Linux is by far the best OS for software RAID, for several reasons, so it'd be a good test.


----------



## gringott

I saw something on Gigabyte's site about a bios adding support for 3tb and greater drives. I still suspect this is the problem. I do agree with schmittbag that you should just get a PCI-E controller.


----------



## aLa.miC

Hi! I'm a new gigabyte 890fxa user not too happy ... 4 days ago i just bought a brand new Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD7 rev.2.1 at an auction ... all well and good until I started to assemble the components in it ... gives me this error in debug led C1 F2 F5





.

PII x4 960T
Team Xtreem Dark 1600Mhz 8-8-8-24
Palit GF 640GT
RealPower Eco Silent 500W 80 +

can someone help me with this error!? happened to someone else? any solution?


----------



## Randomevents

Just thought I'd let everyone know that on my Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 rev 2.1 bios F7e -:

FX-8350 was a successful install, thou I had to move the ratio from Auto to 20, otherwise it defaults to 3.42 GHZ
along with 32GB of ram.

Thanks to everyone in this group that was researching this before me.


----------



## ashyg

Just updated my 890FXA-UD5 (rev 2.1) to bios F7e successfully.

Popped in an FX8320, boots up, runs all good.

Problem.

I go to overclock it to 4ghz, runs there at stock volts (with power saving stuff turned off). Its stable. Yay

Now I go enable the power saving features, so it drops down to say 1.4ghz when low load. Now when I start up prime it caps at 14.5 multi (2.9ghz), rather than going to 20x multi (4ghz), Windows still reports it as a 4ghz processor.

Can anyone help with this? Screenshot below

EDIT: It seems I can just overclock it via FSB rather than Multi, just like the old locked phenom chips. Plausible workaround?


----------



## gringott

I have the 890FXA-UD5 (rev 2.1) and I already have the bios flashed to F7e for a while now, running a Thuban T1090 for a long time [since it came out].

Been dicking around but I finally ordered a 8350 from TigerDirect for $159.99 shipped, couldn't stop myself.

I will post my results here, the chip should be here in the Laboratory Monday. Wish me luck!


----------



## chrisjames61

Anybody have the F7e bios they would be willing to email me? I contacted Gigabyte and this was their response-

Dear customer,

We're sorry , but the motherboard does not have support for the FX processors. We cannot release a BIOS without validation.

Thank you


----------



## gringott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> I have the 890FXA-UD5 (rev 2.1) and I already have the bios flashed to F7e for a while now, running a Thuban T1090 for a long time [since it came out].
> 
> Been dicking around but I finally ordered a 8350 from TigerDirect for $159.99 shipped, couldn't stop myself.
> 
> I will post my results here, the chip should be here in the Laboratory Monday. Wish me luck!


Ok, I have the 2.1 board. The bios sees the CPU. It will boot, but was locking up as soon as I logged into Windows. I started pulling cards, got it to work with only one video card, but guess what? No NICs. Both motherboard NICs could no longer been seen. I also had to do the 20 multiplier to get the correct mhz 4.2 instead of the 3.4 it saw. I suspect if I stripped everything off the board but one stick of ram and a basic video card, I could install a fresh copy of Windows and start adding things until I got it to sort of work. But I been eyeballing the 990 UD7 for a couple of years now, so I pulled the trigger and ordered one up. I put my 1090T back in this workhorse, it will be retired soon as the UD7 shows up. Thanks for all the help guys. Best of luck.


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Anybody have the F7e bios they would be willing to email me? I contacted Gigabyte and this was their response-
> 
> Dear customer,
> 
> We're sorry , but the motherboard does not have support for the FX processors. We cannot release a BIOS without validation.
> 
> Thank you


Please take a look at our whole thread (Page 402 Up or Down)
I think, this can help You:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urmelus*
> 
> You emailed them? I think You have to register at Gigabyte website and oben an question
> and normaly it´s no porblem to get the beta BIOS file.
> Gigabyte answeres within some days
> 
> http://ggts.gigabyte.com.tw
> different languages are supported
> 
> BIOS File direct from Gigabyte
> http://ggts.gigabyte.eu/FileList/1304500/89fxau52.f7e


File-Link works, tested today


----------



## chrisjames61

I installed it and the bios was flaky. Settings didn't take etc..... Planned on putting a 6300 in ur but downgraded the bios and left my 1055T in it.


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> I installed it and the bios was flaky. Settings didn't take etc..... Planned on putting a 6300 in ur but downgraded the bios and left my 1055T in it.


If you're going to do an upgrade, go with an 8 core, otherwise, stick with the 1055T. I personally own the FX-6300 but I upgraded from an Athlon II x3, so that's a pretty big leap in performance.

If you still want to do the upgrade, try the bios update again. It wasn't a success for me the first time around either, and try using a different utility. I don't remember which I used at this point, but I'd recommend you sacrifice your old settings and re-apply them after doing the update.


----------



## ig0ru4

Hello everyone!
i have one problem with oc phenom 1090t
my system is -
1. mb - 890fxa ud 5/rev 2.1 (f6 bios)
2. cpu - 1090t
3. cooler - zalman cnps7x
4. ram - 4gb ddr3 1333mhz (default timings)
5. vga - HD6970
6. power supply - fsp (500w)

i have oc it to 3.7ghz (simply by changing the cpu ratio, other things i didn/t change) and in stress tests the max temperature is 58C. Core voltage is default by motherboard -1.45v.
So, when i am trying to reach more than 3.7 ghz i have BSOD during welcome screen (win8). What is the problem? The temp isn't high at all..
Will appreciate any help!


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ig0ru4*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> i have one problem with oc phenom 1090t
> my system is -
> 1. mb - 890fxa ud 5/rev 2.1 (f6 bios)
> 2. cpu - 1090t
> 3. cooler - zalman cnps7x
> 4. ram - 4gb ddr3 1333mhz (default timings)
> 5. vga - HD6970
> 6. power supply - fsp (500w)
> 
> i have oc it to 3.7ghz (simply by changing the cpu ratio, other things i didn/t change) and in stress tests the max temperature is 58C. Core voltage is default by motherboard -1.45v.
> So, when i am trying to reach more than 3.7 ghz i have BSOD during welcome screen (win8). What is the problem? The temp isn't high at all..
> Will appreciate any help!


I'm not too familiar with overclocking phenom IIs, but you might need to bump up the voltage a little more. You might need to mess with the voltages from other sources too. Also, have you checked the actual voltage rating? Just because you set it to 1.45, it doesn't mean its actually at that value. Another suggestion would be to try messing with the FSB clock.


----------



## ig0ru4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> I'm not too familiar with overclocking phenom IIs, but you might need to bump up the voltage a little more. You might need to mess with the voltages from other sources too. Also, have you checked the actual voltage rating? Just because you set it to 1.45, it doesn't mean its actually at that value. Another suggestion would be to try messing with the FSB clock.


thanks sa lot! will try to do that, and when i receive my results, i will show them here


----------



## chrisjames61

I know this thread is pretty dead but wanted to state that my GA-890FXA-UD5 works flawlessly with the F7e bios and a FX 8320.


----------



## siriq

Good to hear that. I just won an fx8350 cpu. I may sell it or keep it.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> I know this thread is pretty dead but wanted to state that my GA-890FXA-UD5 works flawlessly with the F7e bios and a FX 8320.


what version is that 890FXA-UD5? and where did you get that Bios from?


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> what version is that 890FXA-UD5? and where did you get that Bios from?


Revision 2.1. The bios is in this thread. Check from about 10 pages back. If you can't find it I could email it to you.


----------



## christoph

I found it, thank you, F7e bios

But I have MOBO ver. 2.0, for what I read, is suppose to work for my MOBO UD5 rev 2.0

anyone that can confirm this?


----------



## urmelus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> I found it, thank you, F7e bios
> 
> But I have MOBO ver. 2.0, for what I read, is suppose to work for my MOBO UD5 rev 2.0
> 
> anyone that can confirm this?


That is right, I got that BIOS direct vom Gigabyte exactly for our UD5 rev 2.0

I use a FX 8150
it works fine


----------



## christoph

so it is this one right? I just wanna make sure we're talking about the same file..

http://www.overclock.net/t/730776/official-gigabyte-ga-890fxa-ud5-ud7-owners-thread-club/3890

so any important info you want to share?

or is it a F6 version but just with support for FX cpus?

is it possible you may have any BIOS update log for the F7e version?

does it brake Raid arrays?

sorry to ask this many question, but didn't find any useful info in the thread specifically for MOBO rev 2.0


----------



## schmidtbag

From what I recall, the F7e is specifically designed for the rev 2.0 board. I know it is known to work on the 2.1, and I think it works on 3.0 too but not entirely sure. You have nothing to worry about - keep an AM3 CPU to perform the BIOS update before you put in an AM3+ CPU and you'll be fine.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> From what I recall, the F7e is specifically designed for the rev 2.0 board. I know it is known to work on the 2.1, and I think it works on 3.0 too but not entirely sure. You have nothing to worry about - keep an AM3 CPU to perform the BIOS update before you put in an AM3+ CPU and you'll be fine.


alright, so you have OCed your cpu with CnQ on right, what's the speed on your RAM??

I'm gonna try the BIOS later tonight...


----------



## danny009

Hi everybody !
I have a GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev 2.1) and a Thuban 1100T , 8G (2x4G) G.Skill Ripjaws DDR3 1600 for a period longer than 2 years , and I was quite pleased seeing *gringott* & *Randomevents* have managed to run an FX-8350 on this mobo with F7e BIOS flashed on it .
So , today I can confirm I was able to repeat that experience too and I'm impressed with the difference of performance .
After I successfully flashed the F7e BIOS I did disable C1E and CnQ , raised the CPU voltage to 1.35V and also put the multi on x20 with my old 1100T . The memory speed went back to 1333 but I said it's safer to leave it that way . Then I just put my new FX-8350 into the white socket , put the cooler on top of it , kept only one harddrive and started the PC .
Besides it was faster , it ran 3 degrees Celsius cooler ( 28 instead of 31 ) than the old CPU at the same frequency as seen in PC Health on the BIOS .
Raising the voltage of the RAM memory to 1.61 volts , and changing from 2T to 1T helped keeping memory speed at 1600 .
Thank's to everybody sharing on this forum . I'm using a light Linux ( Fatdog64) and everything it's fine







. Later I'll try to install - for testing - Windows 7 .


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> alright, so you have OCed your cpu with CnQ on right, what's the speed on your RAM??
> 
> I'm gonna try the BIOS later tonight...


Its at it's default speed - 1333MHz at I think 9-8-8-8-24 for timings. I'm not sure if you intend to go higher, but personally there is no reason to. Just as a reminder, sacrificing latency in favor of RAM frequency will get you no results. A higher RAM frequency really only benefits GPUs (and IGPs). CPUs care more about about latency. That being said, try keeping your RAM frequency as close to default and you should be fine.

For me personally, I didn't even bother attempting to increase the FSB. I only meddled with the multiplier.


----------



## christoph

well, I'm testing F6 bios, since I found out that F7e don't have Raid rom...

seems pretty stable


----------



## schmidtbag

Doesn't have RAID? Yes it does, I've got RAID-0 running right now on my F7e system. I'm using the G-RAID for this (the white ports).


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> Doesn't have RAID? Yes it does, I've got RAID-0 running right now on my F7e system. I'm using the G-RAID for this (the white ports).


ok, ok

let me get this straight, and have some questions about it...

since you have raid 0 running;

I have a Intel SSD for the OS, and 2 WD caviar black in raid 0.

would it work, If I flash bios f7e and move the raid to the white ports and set ports 0,1,2,3 as AHCI, so I can leave my SSD and the DVD combo and one hot-swap rack in the blue ports?

would it work? is there any possibility to loose the RAID?


----------



## schmidtbag

I would HIGHLY recommend you backup your RAID any time you do a BIOS update. Not doing so (on any system) would be foolish, even if you had full proof that it _should_ work. AFAIK, you generally can't move a non-software RAID 0 setup between controllers. You have to either use an identical controller or your stuff is gone for good. This, and the fact that most integrated RAID controllers have no hardware acceleration, are common reasons why integrated RAID controllers tend to be frowned upon. I would like to be proven wrong.

But I guess to get more in-depth to your question, here's what I have set up, and what I recommend you to do:
1. Plug both of your HDDs into the white ports and use the G-RAID utility.
2. Plug your SSD into (blue) ports 0-3 and set them to AHCI.
3. If you have any optical drives, set ports 4-5 to IDE and plug them into that. While it is considerably slower, Windows in particular doesn't seem to like optical drives set to ACHI very much. Linux related discs work fine.

Depending on what is on your HDDs, you might want to ditch the onboard RAID utilities entirely. The ONLY purpose of using them is so you can boot Windows from RAID. Since your OS runs from the SSD and since you presumably aren't running linux, you don't need the built-in RAID. Ditch the on-board RAID and you can actually carry your RAID 0 setup between other systems, relatively safely.

For me personally, Windows is brutal with SSDs so I boot Windows off of my RAID 0 setup, which is why I _have_ to use the G-RAID utility.


----------



## christoph

ok, so you don't have a SSD, that's what I understood, anyway, not relevant

your idea of HDDs attachment, is really good, I gotta try this now...

hmm, I have move my raid 0 between ports, even I moved from a Asus board with 790 chipset, that was 750 SB?? or some like that, to this board with 890FX NB, 850 SB, without loosing the raid 0, I have to say that when I did this swap, was 4 WD caviar black in raid 0

but, this doesn't mean that I can move to ports from another controller, that' why I ask..

gonna have to back up my files


----------



## schmidtbag

I do have a SSD, I'm just not booting _Windows_ from it. I run linux from an SSD (linux is far more SSD friendly).

If the actual RAID controller is the same, you should be able to safely switch, even if they're different chipsets. Since these are different controllers, I don't think you can safely switch.


----------



## christoph

yeah, I gonna have to save everything before I do this


----------



## christoph

guys is this ok? or something is wrong with my voltages? I have bump MOBO NB one notch as CPU-NB up to 1.3v, but still I get this...

and another question, MOBO bus or FSB is oscillating a little bit, not much, does it mean I have to bump MOBO NB another notch? how much is it save??


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> guys is this ok? or something is wrong with my voltages? I have bump MOBO NB one notch as CPU-NB up to 1.3v, but still I get this...
> 
> and another question, MOBO bus or FSB is oscillating a little bit, not much, does it mean I have to bump MOBO NB another notch? how much is it save??


I don't remember off the top of my head what the voltages should be and I'm not near my AMD system right now, but there are several NB voltage settings. I believe the FSB oscillating (frequency, to be specific) is normal if you have C1E enabled, and can cleaned up with spread spectrum too. I personally keep C1E disabled, since it hurts overclocking.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> I don't remember off the top of my head what the voltages should be and I'm not near my AMD system right now, but there are several NB voltage settings. I believe the FSB oscillating (frequency, to be specific) is normal if you have C1E enabled, and can cleaned up with spread spectrum too. I personally keep C1E disabled, since it hurts overclocking.


yeah but it is oscillating by one MHz or so...


----------



## schmidtbag

Unless stability tests are proving to fail or if you explicitly remember this didn't happen before the BIOS update, I wouldn't worry about it. I've seen this before on other systems and it was fine. If your NB voltage is too low (not sure which voltage) that could be part of it too - a weak power source is bound to give problems. I didn't get home until past midnight last night so I haven't checked what I've got for my voltage settings. Remember, spread spectrum might help.


----------



## christoph

yeah, but I haven't have a problem with this, no instability related, just notice this, and feel weird

so now, this, I'm wondering If a could get the RAM up to 1800 MHz now, if I bump the RAM and I get instability I gonna know that is the ram



or should I go with this instead?

FSB - 260
CPU - 3640
CPU-NB - 2600
RAM - 1730


----------



## schmidtbag

In my personal opinion, you should keep your RAM right where it is. Your timings are pretty good considering the frequency. You _could_ go higher but you'll have to increase the latency and you won't be gaining much performance at that point, but you will be pushing your stability to its limits. I'd say try getting 7-8-7-25 for your timings, or even 7-7-7-24 if you can. Remember, on a CPU like yours, RAM frequency means very little. In fact frequency on a Phenom II is so unimportant I'd suggest you lower it and see if you can bump your CPU another 100-200MHz or so.


----------



## soma1509

Hey guys, it's been a very long time since I've been here. Glad this thread is still somewhat alive.

My current ASUS 990FX Sabertooth Rev. 1.0 motherboard has officially kicked the bucket a few days ago [24-pin connection burned out], so I decided to use this board and my 965 BE again for the time being until I can manage to replace my dead ASUS board.

Now, I've read the last 10 or so pages, and noticed that a Beta F7E BIOS is available. I currently have Revision 2.0 of the 890FXA-UD5 board and was thinking of flashing it, but I have a few questions.

First, when I downloaded the BIOS from a few posts back, I managed to get a file called "89fxau52.f7e". Is that the correct filename? If not, can someone please send me the correct BIOS file as I don't think I'll have much luck convincing Gigabyte for the F7E BIOS? If that IS the correct filename, what flashing utility did you guys use? And did you use DOS or Windows to flash the BIOS? I still have a healthy FX-8320 that I want to put to use if this is possible.

Are there any features or essential stuff that has been stripped from this BIOS version? I read a post saying that IOMMU and RAID don't work, but I just want to receive 100% confirmation that everything works as it should before doing this.

It's been a while since I've worked with this Gigabyte board, let alone flashing a BIOS, so forgive all of the noobie questions.


----------



## schmidtbag

I don't remember the name of the ROM myself but that looks right to me. The board is dual BIOS anyway, so worst case scenario it'll just reset back to the F3 BIOS (or whatever was the earliest it shipped with).

I personally used the built-in flash utility (I forget the key combination, but it tells you at POST). You could probably use the Windows based utility but I would advise against it. I personally noticed new additional features were unlocked, like a wattage sensor and turbo mode controls (not sure if Phenoms IIs have those but Athlon IIs didn't).

IOMMU also works fine. The only issue I had with IOMMU was enabling it along with Crossfire in Linux. IOMMU+Crossfire+Windows worked fine, and IOMMU+Linux OR Crossfire+Linux worked fine. That problem might not exist anymore but I stopped using the catalyst drivers in linux almost a year ago. I'm also using RAID 0 myself, though I haven't attempted RAID using the SATA 3 ports. As I've suggested in the past, depending on what OS you use and what you use your RAID setup for, just do a 100% software RAID.


----------



## soma1509

Thanks for that. I will give F7E a shot later tonight or tomorrow once I finally managed to setup Windows the way I want to and see if I can still make the SLI Hack work.

The only reason I asked was because most of the BIOS versions from GB's site are .exe files, while this one has a unique file extension [.f7e]. So I thought maybe it was something funky going on in my end.


----------



## schmidtbag

The .exe files are either self-extracting zip files or a DOS or Windows based upload utility that'll automatically download the ROM for you. But, last time I checked, gigabyte isn't fond of giving away this F7e BIOS. I'm not sure why, I guess because it's not getting them any money. The file would be more appropriately named as "F7e.ROM". In fact, the built-in update utility might only look for *.rom files, so I'd suggest you rename it to that anyway.


----------



## soma1509

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashyg*
> 
> Just updated my 890FXA-UD5 (rev 2.1) to bios F7e successfully.
> 
> Popped in an FX8320, boots up, runs all good.
> 
> Problem.
> 
> I go to overclock it to 4ghz, runs there at stock volts (with power saving stuff turned off). Its stable. Yay
> 
> Now I go enable the power saving features, so it drops down to say 1.4ghz when low load. Now when I start up prime it caps at 14.5 multi (2.9ghz), rather than going to 20x multi (4ghz), Windows still reports it as a 4ghz processor.
> 
> Can anyone help with this? Screenshot below
> 
> EDIT: It seems I can just overclock it via FSB rather than Multi, just like the old locked phenom chips. Plausible workaround?


I'm having the same problem with a 2.0 revision board and an FX-8320, with all power-saving features disabled. I'll try and tinker some more and see if enabling the Turbo Boost function does something to get around this issue. -- EDIT: Yyyeah, not happening. Enabling Turbo screws around with the CPU's VID and messes up the voltage offset I setup in the BIOS. It also doesn't solve the problem. So that's a no-go.

For now, I'm working with a mild OC at 4.060GHz [14.5 x 280MHz], with 1.35V on the VCore, and 1.35V on the CPU-NB so all of my RAM can run at 1866MHz.
So far so good.


----------



## siriq

Hi!

Try to use this program: https://sites.google.com/site/k10stat/ and here is the guide : http://aspiregemstone.blogspot.hu/2009/06/k10stat-amd-griffin-processor.html
I also got an 8350 cpu. Maybe sell it maybe keep it. I had it for free. So let me know if u guys manage to use k10 stat.


----------



## soma1509

K10STAT didn't work for me. Couldn't detect my CPU.


----------



## siriq

Thx for info. i have to sell it then.


----------



## Jasoniumh

Hi everyone. I got hold of a GA-890FXA-UD7 (rev. 1.0) So far a nice board. My biggest problem is finding a bios update. Being a Rev 1.0 there is no reference for it on the Gigabyte website. Anyone got one or know where I can go to get an update?

Current bios is D1

Any help would be appreciated.. thanks.


----------



## schmidtbag

Rev 1.0? Is this a UD7 or a UD5? Because if the latter, I think you've been ripped off; I don't know much about the UD7. When I bought my UD5 board (a rev 2.0), that was back in I think 2010 or 2011, and at that time the only boards available were the 2.0 and I think the 2.1.


----------



## Jasoniumh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> Rev 1.0? Is this a UD7 or a UD5? Because if the latter, I think you've been ripped off; I don't know much about the UD7. When I bought my UD5 board (a rev 2.0), that was back in I think 2010 or 2011, and at that time the only boards available were the 2.0 and I think the 2.1.


Definitely UD7.. I acquired this as an ex-demonstration mobo.. No documentation.. no I/0 plate... etc. @BIOS cant find an update on any of the listed servers.. I did get hold a bios from a European website (?) but it failed on reboot with a checksum error. I haven't written to Gigabyte yet but soon will. I don't know much about these things but..... is it possible it was an early board for testing and not necessarily for retail?


----------



## schmidtbag

Looking at the gigabyte's product page for it, there is no rev 1.0. I'm pretty sure you don't have a retail board. If it looks nearly identical to the 2.0 board I wonder if you could just manually download a BIOS update for it.

@BIOS has it's own set of risks, so it might not give you a reliable update. You should check which BIOS version you have now and see if any of the ones on that page match it. If not, you're probably out of luck.

Why exactly do you need an update? If you want to use any of the FX-series processors, I wouldn't even try. I'm not sure how much you paid for the board but considering the fact that it works and isn't a model that was ever sold, I'd say take what you can get.


----------



## Jasoniumh

Your right... it works well, I do have a FX4300 spare but the 965 phenom with its gtx660 run my flight Sim beautifully. Clocked the phenom to 4GHz.. runs seamlessly. So thank you Mr Schmidtbag.. your words are wise... and I paid an embarrassingly low price for the board..


----------



## Black Flag

So with bios f7e I can install to my REV 2.1 GA-890FXA-UD5 the FX 8350?


----------



## schmidtbag

I'm not 100% sure if it works on the 2.1 board (I think it does) but worst case scenario, your board comes with 2 CMOS chips so it'll just revert back to your old one if the flash fails.


----------



## Black Flag

It's already been flashed with f7e bios for about two years. I've just wondering if it's worthing to replace the 1090t.

I already have another build with FX 8350 and Crosshair V Formula.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Flag*
> 
> It's already been flashed with f7e bios for about two years. I've just wondering if it's worthing to replace the 1090t.
> 
> I already have another build with FX 8350 and Crosshair V Formula.


now I did the same thing, havent replace my 1055t, and I think I'll wait til new AMD cpus comes out, so I can do a whole upgrade

this cpus still is good for any task for at least one more year, so I'll just wait


----------



## Black Flag

Some instructions to overclock it (1090t) over 4,0 GHz?

I have Kingston Hyper X beast DDR3 RAM (4x4GB) at 2133 MHz and for cooler the Scythe Mugen Rev. 3.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Flag*
> 
> Some instructions to overclock it (1090t) over 4,0 GHz?
> 
> I have Kingston Hyper X beast DDR3 RAM (4x4GB) at 2133 MHz and for cooler the Scythe Mugen Rev. 3.


4 ram sticks at 2133 MHz??? you may not want to do that, anyway

if you want to OC up to 4.0 GHz, you might need to keep your ram lower, like 1600 MHz, rise the CPU-NB voltage to lets say 1.35 - 1.4v and 1.47v - 1.5v for the CPU


----------



## Black Flag

No at 2133 MHz, with Crosshair V was easy with Phenom II and the rams were clocked at 2000 MHz. FSB was set at 250 MHz, but I had hydro cooling there.


----------



## christoph

4.0 GHz is easy, but if you clock the RAM over 1800 MHz is going to put too much pressure on the CPU-NB, there's some exceptions of course, so I would try put the ram at around 1600 Mhz first and see how high the cpu can go


----------



## OverCVoyager

Hallo Folks here at Overclock.net

I recently updated my computer from a MA770 -UD3 to a MA890FXA - UD7 Rev 2.0
Right now I run the board with A Phenom II X4 965 BE and as I read about CPU upgrades finally decided to get a FX 8320
Unfortunately I didn't check the CPU list with Gigabyte and now I have bought the FX 8320 in the bay but this is a config that offically is not supported.
Has anyone here any experience with this unoffical configuration?
I updated the Bios to F5a.
Any help with the right Bios settings or experiences are welcomed.

Greetings Joe


----------



## schmidtbag

I'm personally not sure if its possible to run any FX series processors on the UD7. If you had a UD5 you'd be in luck. You could always try the F7e BIOS for the UD5 but I'm not sure if that'll work. These boards are dual-BIOS so if anything goes wrong it SHOULD revert back to an older version, though I'd hate to be proven wrong.


----------



## OverCVoyager

Hallo,
thank you for your reply. Well, meanwhile I have been searching a little more and to my great curiosity I found out that the GA890FXA-UD5 board officially supports FX CPUs but the UD7 which is basically the better board with improvments seems not to. The best BIOS version for the UD 7 is the F5a. The best for UD 5 seems to be the F5f.
So I send a support request to Gigabyte why this is so and if there might be a BIOS version for the UD 7 to help me with this problem.
Although I don't think they can or are really willing to help.
The F7e Bios for the UD 5 will defenetly not work with a UD 7 board I suppose.


----------



## kernel G

I'm pretty sure that you need need the black AM3+ socket to support the FX cpu. Gigabyte released a version 3.1 on several 880/890 series boards - just not the UD7. I haven't read through all the posts in this thread yet, so I can't comment if you can use the UD5 BIOS in your board. And there's always the unknown hardware differences of a board that has an AM3+ socket.


----------



## siriq

Hi!

Any of you can try something for me!? Does the AmdMsrTweaker recognize the cpu and able to change P states? It would be grate alternative to K10stat. So i would give a try to install the 8350 on my board. I still have the cpu with so much dust on it.


----------



## christoph

but what exactly you need that soft for?

power states in windows woks fine


----------



## siriq

Yeah but i want to change voltage etc to P-states.


----------



## christoph

oh, well I've never use it so I wouldn't know if it works or not


----------



## mini-pouce

Kind of up of the thread.

I droped some TridentX 2400MHz and of course it doesn't fit right with my 890FXA-UD5.
On it there is a 1100T.
What is strange is not that it doesn't fit naturally but that it dosn't boot.








I have allready do 2100MHz with my old RAM (simple 1600kit).

I was thinking that my board will downgrade the RAM to 1066 RAM like, but that's not the case... Obviously.
Got three bip, not the same as a failed Overclock which is three quick but long bip.
Have you got any Idea ? Explication ?

Thank's a lot !


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mini-pouce*
> 
> Kind of up of the thread.
> 
> I droped some TridentX 2400MHz and of course it doesn't fit right with my 890FXA-UD5.
> On it there is a 1100T.
> What is strange is not that it doesn't fit naturally but that it dosn't boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have allready do 2100MHz with my old RAM (simple 1600kit).
> 
> I was thinking that my board will downgrade the RAM to 1066 RAM like, but that's not the case... Obviously.
> Got three bip, not the same as a failed Overclock which is three quick but long bip.
> Have you got any Idea ? Explication ?
> 
> Thank's a lot !


phenom's officially supports only 1066 MHz ram but most of us can only overclock or use ram up to 1700 or maybe 1800 MHz


----------



## BiscuitGrinder

Hey everyone!

This is my first post here! Looking forward to reading more as I've recently got more free time! Not sure I'll be overclocking much until I can update some hardware. I had this computer in storage for about 3 years as I had to travel for work and couldn't really use it. I have a friend helping me get the RAID array up and running, never finished it







, so computer is at his place but, I made a list of the components as best as I could for now in my profile.

So, after pouring over much of the forums here and "toms-hardware" I came across some discussions about the r.2.1 vs. r.3+ GA-890-fxa-UD5. Its a bummer cause I have a rev 2.1. I contacted Gigabyte about making a special BIOS so that I could run a AMD3+ CPU but they said no.

So my question is, did anyone ever get a "special BIOS" from them or come across one that allows the white socket boards to run AMD3+ CPU's? I know there are 2 extra pins on the new CPU's but was wondering if anyone got them to work? Jumpers or special soldering







?? Below is a link to a controversial thread there...

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/289080-30-gigabyte-revsions-bios-updates

If not, anyone got a Phenom 1090t lying around I could pick up on the cheap??? I've not found any for less than $150

Cheers


----------



## schmidtbag

@BiscuitGrinder
Buried somewhere in these forums is the F7e BIOS, which runs AM3+ CPUs. It is designed for the rev 2.0 board, but you MIGHT be able to get it to work with the 2.1. These boards are dual-BIOS, so if one fails, the other is supposed to take over. You should be able to safely attempt to flash this BIOS, even if it is incompatible, but I'd hate to be wrong. Aside from that, there shouldn't be anything else special you need to do.

Also, I think AM3+ CPUs have 2 fewer pins, not additional.


----------



## Agent Smith1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiscuitGrinder*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> This is my first post here! Looking forward to reading more as I've recently got more free time! Not sure I'll be overclocking much until I can update some hardware. I had this computer in storage for about 3 years as I had to travel for work and couldn't really use it. I have a friend helping me get the RAID array up and running, never finished it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , so computer is at his place but, I made a list of the components as best as I could for now in my profile.
> 
> So, after pouring over much of the forums here and "toms-hardare" I came across some discussions about the r.2.1 vs. r.3+ GA-890-fxa-UD5. Its a bummer cause I have a rev 2.1. I contacted Gigabyte about making a special BIOS so that I could run a AMD3+ CPU but they said no.
> 
> So my question is, did anyone ever get a "special BIOS" from them or come across one that allows the white socket boards to run AMD3+ CPU's? I know there are 2 extra pins on the new CPU's but was wondering if anyone got them to work? Jumpers or special soldering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?? Below is a link to a controversial thread there...
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/289080-30-gigabyte-revsions-bios-updates
> 
> If not, anyone got a Phenom 1090t lying around I could pick up on the cheap??? I've not found any for less than $150
> 
> Cheers


I have a 1090T that does 4+ no problem. I would do $125 for the CPU and board (UD5) + actual shipping cost (shouldn't be too bad if I use my work discount)


----------



## christoph

yeah here in the thread is the bios that allows you to run AM3+ cpus

but, you could just get a 1055t or 1035t cpu and overclock it up to 4.0 GHz, with this board is really easy to achieve this OC, so you could wait til AMD release any new CPUs


----------



## BiscuitGrinder

Sorry for the delayed reply, I had my network hacked couple days ago and had to spend $250+ to hire a "white hat specialist" to clean it up and install security. Took a whole day... so lame!

Excellent feed back guys, thank you. I've obviously got some thinking to do.

@Agent Smith1984 not sure I want an extra board... what rev is it? I really just need a CPU upgrade right now. PM me if you would like to sell just the CPU.
@christoph not sure I can get a 1035t fro much less than a FX 8320e... they are $140 on amazon & 1035t's are $114. *Anyone got one?*

If anyone has the Rev F7e Bios bookmarked, I'd appreciate it... I'll start going backwards through this form but might take me a while.

Cheers!


----------



## Agent Smith1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiscuitGrinder*
> 
> Sorry for the delayed reply but I had my network hacked couple days ago and had to spend $250+ to hire a "white hat specialist" to clean it up and install security. Took a whole day... so lame!
> 
> Excellent feed back guys, thank you. I've obviously got some thinking to do.
> 
> @Agent Smith1984 not sure I want an extra board... what rev is it? I really just need a CPU upgrade right now. PM me if you would like to sell just the CPU.
> @christoph not sure I can get a 1035t fro much less than a FX 8320e... they are $140 on amazon & 1035t's are $114. *Anyone got one?*
> 
> If anyone has the Rev F7e Bios bookmarked, I'd appreciate it... I'll start going backwards through this form but might take me a while.
> 
> Cheers!


Sold the CPU and board together for $100+SH to another member just earlier today...
Good luck though!









FYI, I bought an FX-8300 from tigerdirect for $99
It runs @ 3.3 base, and 4.2 turbo. I will be installing and testing it tonight.
I'm expecting about 4.6GHz out of it, but hoping for more


----------



## christoph

89fxau52.zip 644k .zip file


there you go...


----------



## BiscuitGrinder

Thanks christoph! Still working but will be getting the computer going this weekend.

No worries Agent Smith. I might have to spring for the 8300 too. Keep us posted! Was that price with your work discount? I just checked and my price is $119.21 delivered.


----------



## SummGuy

I've just purchased a GA-890FXA-UD5 board off ebay. It claims to be Rev 3.1. I haven't received it yet.

My questions are:

1) Is there a PDF motherboard manual for Rev 3.1? (I can find 2.0 and 2.1 but nothing higher).
2) Will an FX-6300 cpu be compatible with this board - if the board is Rev 3.1? What if the board is not Rev 3.1?
3) Assuming that the FX-6300 is ok for this board, what is recommended ram if I only want 4 gb max?

Side question: What is difference between UD5 and UD7?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SummGuy*
> 
> I've just purchased a GA-890FXA-UD5 board off ebay. It claims to be Rev 3.1. I haven't received it yet.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 1) Is there a PDF motherboard manual for Rev 3.1? (I can find 2.0 and 2.1 but nothing higher).
> 2) Will an FX-6300 cpu be compatible with this board - if the board is Rev 3.1? What if the board is not Rev 3.1?
> 3) Assuming that the FX-6300 is ok for this board, what is recommended ram if I only want 4 gb max?
> 
> Side question: What is difference between UD5 and UD7?


[[/I]

If the sicket of the MOBO is color black then it is the 3.1 version, so any FX series AMD CPU is compatible with that board


----------



## SummGuy

> If the sicket of the MOBO is color black then it is the 3.1 version,

What is "sicket" ? You mean the silkscreen? What if it says "Ver 3.1" in the corner of the board?

> so any FX series AMD CPU is compatible with that board

This will be the first AMD motherboard I've had in about 10 or 15 years, so I'm not familiar with, say, the difference between an "FX Series" vs Socket AM3 / AM3+. I thought that as long as I get any AM3+ cpu, I'd be fine. No?

What about ram for this board? What speed should I get?


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SummGuy*
> 
> I've just purchased a GA-890FXA-UD5 board off ebay. It claims to be Rev 3.1. I haven't received it yet.
> 
> My questions are:
> 
> 1) Is there a PDF motherboard manual for Rev 3.1? (I can find 2.0 and 2.1 but nothing higher).
> 2) Will an FX-6300 cpu be compatible with this board - if the board is Rev 3.1? What if the board is not Rev 3.1?
> 3) Assuming that the FX-6300 is ok for this board, what is recommended ram if I only want 4 gb max?
> 
> Side question: What is difference between UD5 and UD7?


Have you gone to the Gigabyte page for the motherboard? I linked the page for the version 3.1 board.

Christoph's answer of "Sicket" should be "Socket" which is black.
1) on the Gigabyte site, click on "Support and Downloads" and choose "Manuals". Scroll down past the "Installation Guidebook"s to find the motherboard manual.
2) According to the CPU Support List on the above site, yes- your FX-6300 is compatable. Not supported on 3.0 or below.
3) Either 4-1GB DIMMS, 2-2GB DIMMS, or a single 4GB DIMM. Board supports DDR3 1333/1066. I'd recommend either 2 or 1 in case you decide later to go beyond 4 gig.

The UD7 is a was never upgraded to an AM3+ socket, and is a larger XL-ATX form factor. It has more PCI-e sockets.


----------



## SummGuy

The ram that is available to me locally at the moment are:

Mushkin Silverline 2GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 ($24)
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 Dual Channel Kit ($55)
Corsair Vengeance 4GB (2x2GB) 1600MHz DDR3 CL9 1.5V ($60)
Corsair Vengeance Blue 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 1.5V ($60)

Would there be any performance benefit to using the Gskill or Corsair ram vs Mushkin?

A pair of Mushkin is practically the same price as the gskill, but the gskill is 1600 mhz while the mushkin is 1333. Is there any downside in using 1600 mhz ram at 1333 (or 1066?) speed?

Is there any performance benefit for this motherboard in having 4 ram sticks instead of 2?

I probably will buy 2 gb sticks, maybe to increase the ram to 8 gb in the future - but I was wondering why there does not seem to be any 1 gb DDR3 1333 or higher ram available anywhere. ?


----------



## kernel G

The 1600 speed would be better. As far as overall performance, probably better to ask on a memory forum. All of your quoted kits are rated CL9. The 2x2GB would be running in dual channel mode. I have not yet benchmarked dual channel vs. single channel performance (would like to out of curiosity) but I don't think you'd notice any difference unless you're gaming or overclocking.
2 sticks vs. 4 sticks would both be operating in dual channel mode provided each pair matches.


----------



## SummGuy

It looks like instead of a rev 3.1 board, I'm going to be getting a rev 3.0 board. Which pisses me off, but the board seems somewhat rare (having IDE, floppy, LPT ports). Gigabyte's CPU support list for the 3.0 board shows Vishera core FX-8350 and FX-8370. Now from reading a bunch of posts about this board, there seems to have been a lot of questions about using AM3+ chips on Rev 2.1/2.0 boards, but I haven't found anything about 3.0 boards. As in - what exactly can the 3.0 board run in terms of AM3+ / Vishera CPU's?

Can the 3.0 board be modded to run the FX-6300 that I just bought? Or can it run the 6300 as-is?

My focus on this board is to build the most "advanced" system that has full XP driver support - which the 890 chipset seems to have.

I've recently looked into this board:

ASRock 970 Extreme3 R2.0 Socket AM3+ AMD970FX+SB950 Chipset
- Dual Channel DDR3 2100(O.C.) MHz, 2x PCI-Express x16
- GLAN, 5x SATA 6.0Gb/s, 1x eSATA 6.0Gb/s, 2x USB 3.0, 4x USB 2.0
- ATX

Which I can obtain locally for $70 (after rebate). It appears that this board also has full XP driver support. And it takes the FX-6300 CPU.

I would imagine that this Asrock board has better performance than the GA-890FXA?


----------



## kernel G

Floppy support is why I bought my earlier GA-880GA-UD3H board and upgraded to my current 890FXA-UD5 (rev3.1).
I'm not up on the specific details between the various AM3 sockets, but if your FX-6300 fits- try it! If it does not POST, then only the FX-8350/8370 are supported and should work.
If the processor does not fit, then it's pinned specifically for the AM3+ socket.

32bit XP support- I thought that's why you had 4GB as your limit. I've got 8GB on mine, with 64 bit Win7 dual booting with XP. The challenge for me was installing the AHCI drivers on XP.

I don't see floppy connector on your ASRock board on their website. I think the 890 chipset was the last one to support the 34pin floppy connector (which was very important for me).


----------



## christoph

sorry I'd mistype, I meant "socket"


----------



## SummGuy

So I got my rev 3.0 board, and I picked up a sempron 145 from a local store for about $40. Also picked up a pair of 2-gb ram sticks (gskill 12800 CL9D-4GBXL). Put it all together and the board booted a DOS floppy I had lying around, and then I booted a floppy with memtest 86 5.01. Memory tested fine on default settings (533 mhz / 1066 mhz).

I then unlocked the CPU and activated the second core and ran Memtest again. Memtest identified the CPU as an Athlon II X2 4450e.

I increase the ram speed to what seems to be the max bios setting - 800 mhz / 1600. Memtest said my timing was 9-9-9-28, and the speed was 4835 mb/sec.

One thing I'd like to do is increase the time I have to hit the del key when the board is booting. The time window to get into the bios is way too short, but I can't find any bios setting for that. Even turning on the spash screen doesn't really help - the screen is only there for a fraction of a second.

So - what's the verdict of installing an AM3+ chip in this AM3 socket?


----------



## 2JZ

Is cooling the VRM (left of the CPU) or the Northbridge (under CPU) more important? I have an additional fan I took off of my stock FX-8320 cooler. My system is overclocked and the NB and CPU NB have higher voltages (1.2V & 1.3V).

TMPIN2 hits 56 degrees under stress testing. I am seeing some cores drop multiplier during stress testing and I am trying to figure out why.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2JZ*
> 
> Is cooling the VRM (left of the CPU) or the Northbridge (under CPU) more important? I have an additional fan I took off of my stock FX-8320 cooler. My system is overclocked and the NB and CPU NB have higher voltages (1.2V & 1.3V).
> 
> TMPIN2 hits 56 degrees under stress testing. I am seeing some cores drop multiplier during stress testing and I am trying to figure out why.


The VRM's are more important to cool...

maybe IF you haven't, check the thermal pad of the MOBO heatsinks for the VRM, the NB and the SB, if you have new thermal pads then replace them, is been years now since this MOBO was release so new thermal pads would do real good for the MOBO


----------



## 2JZ

Is 56 degrees high for my NB? Where can I find new pads?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2JZ*
> 
> Is 56 degrees high for my NB? Where can I find new pads?


actually is NOT, but you must make sure that is the right reading, I mean that the 56c reading is the right on the mobo, how and why??? well maybe the VRMs are not making good contact with the heatsinks anymore, or in this case the thermal pads

you can find thermal pads on Newegg or Amazon, or any hardware store, even Frys


----------



## 2JZ

On our boards, is TMPIN2 under HWmonitor NB or VRM temps? What is the max safe temperature of TMPIN2?


----------



## christoph

that is the VRM's reading, but don't know the exact specifications for this MOBO as it should be around 80c the max safe??

but like I told you, as years go by, the thermal pads as thermal paste too, gets old, hard, full of dust so it wont be transferring the heat to the heatsink in the proper manner thus you could get inaccurate temperature reading

that's why I would make sure the thermal pads are in good conditions and make sure all the VRM are making good contact with the heatsink


----------



## 2JZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> that is the VRM's reading, but don't know the exact specifications for this MOBO as it should be around 80c the max safe??
> 
> but like I told you, as years go by, the thermal pads as thermal paste too, gets old, hard, full of dust so it wont be transferring the heat to the heatsink in the proper manner thus you could get inaccurate temperature reading
> 
> that's why I would make sure the thermal pads are in good conditions and make sure all the VRM are making good contact with the heatsink


I already ordered the best fujipoly I could find. I have a new overclock setup that is having fewer issues with vcore&multiplier drops. FSB is at 267, 4.56GHZ at 1.4250V. It survives 20 passes of ITX but gets an error stating its unstable. I might just leave it and game with it anyway


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2JZ*
> 
> I already ordered the best fujipoly I could find. I have a new overclock setup that is having fewer issues with vcore&multiplier drops. FSB is at 267, 4.56GHZ at 1.4250V. It survives 20 passes of ITX but gets an error stating its unstable. I might just leave it and game with it anyway


yeah those "267" MHz clock, shouldn't be a problem for this MOBO, I really think is the heat that keeping you from getting it higher


----------



## Beemelmann

For the UD7 the latest officially listed Bios are:

F4 Works but had a minor bug that annoyed me, forgot what it was.
F5a Not personally tested.

Unlisted ones are:

F5b Not personally tested
F5e Not personally tested
F5f Works Marvelous on my board. Used with AMD Phenom 2, Sapphire HD5870 and GEIL Memory (Also GEIL Evo 2 memory works flawless for years, OP can add it to the list.)

EDIT:
Ok, this thread seems to have even newer versions, just did not find them at first because this thread is huge.

F5c and F5d seem to be removed because they brick the board.

Does anyone have experience with F5(a-e)?

Does anyone of you have a changelog of the bios versions including the beta stages?

Specifically does anyone of you have experience with IOMMU support on this board?

I have Linux 3.18 running with every kind of IOMMU support compiled in.

The logs say some inconsistent things:
AT FIRST
"AMD-Vi: Found IOMMU at %adress%"
"AMD-Vi: Interrupt remapping enabled"

BUT LATER
"AMD IOMMUv2 driver by Joerg Roedel %his mail adress%"
"AMD IOMMUv2 functionality not available on this system"

What exactly is the difference between v1 and v2?

I just want to use reasonably safe VGA Passthrough with KVM or XEN.

Edit, found a way to partially list the available files on Gigabytes downloadserver:

The chinese server has folder listing disabled but if you try a filename not in the folder but similar to one existing, it lists all the similar filenames via 300 Multiple Choice.
(First time ever seeing that http response)
That way you can find all the bioses for your board, even the unlisted ones.

Listing link for UD7:
http://download.gigabyte.cn/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud7_v2.x_fx.exe

Listing link for UD5:
http://download.gigabyte.cn/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v2.x_fx.exe


----------



## SummGuy

That trick for showing the bios files - I only see v2 or 2.1 files. Are there similar files for GA-890FXA-UD5 v3 or 3.1 boards?


----------



## kernel G

After several attempts, I got this result by changing the last part to: mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.exe

*The document name you requested (/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.exe) could not be found on this server. However, we found documents with names similar to the one you requested.
Available documents:

/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.3.x_fd.exe (common basename)
/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.3.x_fed.exe (common basename)
/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.3.x_fc.exe (common basename)
/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.3.0_fb.exe (common basename)
/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.3.x_fef.exe (common basename)
/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v.3.x_fec.exe (common basename)*

Just replacing the 2 with 3 in the previous post's link did not work for me.


----------



## GokAy

Hey all, got a few questions.

I am confused by the amount of max memory UD5 rev 2.0 can support. The users manual that came with the board say 16 GB is max but the gigabyte site say max mem is 32 GB. Which one is correct?

Is there a changelog for the F7e bios?

Also, I am on F3 atm and have no issues. No OC atm tho. Should I upgrade bios to F6 or perhaps to F7e? Depending on OC or not.

Thanks.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GokAy*
> 
> Hey all, got a few questions.
> 
> I am confused by the amount of max memory UD5 rev 2.0 can support. The users manual that came with the board say 16 GB is max but the gigabyte site say max mem is 32 GB. Which one is correct?
> 
> Is there a changelog for the F7e bios?
> 
> Also, I am on F3 atm and have no issues. No OC atm tho. Should I upgrade bios to F6 or perhaps to F7e? Depending on OC or not.
> 
> Thanks.


is suppose to be 32, here are some guys that have 24 gb on this MOBO, I wanna add more ram too, at least up to 16


----------



## firej

I have this :
http://valid.x86.fr/qz5gcq
Could you advice me about the RAM and CPU? are set right?
I have disable C1E , C&Q and Turbo Core not Performance


----------



## GokAy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firej*
> 
> I have this :
> http://valid.x86.fr/qz5gcq
> Could you advice me about the RAM and CPU? are set right?
> I have disable C1E , C&Q and Turbo Core not Performance


We have the same cpu and ram amount (I have OCZ AMD Black 4x2GB rams). Perhaps you can run the mem at 1600Mhz. Though you may need to set them for unganged as I had problems with ganged mode. Would sometimes give a warning at boot that overclock failed and that it reverted to 1066Mhz.


----------



## christoph

I got this right now, and I can easily run them over 1600 MHz, but due to the OC is now set to that speed


----------



## firej

Is this possible and safe? I would like to do it, give me some inscructions








Thanks!

I set in BIOS manual config for RAM wit 7,8,7,20 timings and 1600MHz Clock
In SPD and auto told other timings also at startup it shows now 1600MHZ. I am now running Windows 7 x64 and the CPU-Z tells me at least 800MHz on XMP-1600 with these clocks!
Thanks

I now have these in details:
http://valid.x86.fr/f13wr3


----------



## TitoXx

Got the FX-8370E at Microcenter today. Was on sale for $119.99. Works fine with my UD5 2.0 on F7e bios.


----------



## happyrichie

hi guys, ud5 2.1 ive not done any updates since i got it, its been great, what do i need to do to get a 8320e in here?


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> hi guys, ud5 2.1 ive not done any updates since i got it, its been great, what do i need to do to get a 8320e in here?


Sell it and get a Sabertooth R2! Only kidding. First thing I would do is update to the latest BIOS. That being said that board has support for the 8350 right out of the box.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Sell it and get a Sabertooth R2! Only kidding. First thing I would do is update to the latest BIOS. That being said that board has support for the 8350 right out of the box.


No support for FX processors at all except maybe v3.1 but I doubt, I updated my v2.1 BIOS and there was no mention of support for FX processors.
Anyway, I just installed GA-890fxa-ud5 instead of burnt out (NB croaked) Ga- 870a-UD3 and is much better MB. Cooling is excellent and NB doesn't go over 40c even with Phenom II 965BE @4.2 GHz. I had to go for this board as it's last loaded to gills MB. It has every port I need. Pushed it for 2 days thru all kinds of punishing burn in tests and passed all of them with flying colors. Has very good power regulation and accurate sensors. Managed few things I never did with earlier MBs. Ph II 965 BE now works at up to 4 GHz at 1.47v, NB at full speed with stock voltages and even almost impossible feat with Kingston HyperX 1600 MHz RAM working at 1.5v at that speed. Impressed for now.


----------



## siriq

Can you make a cpu-z screenshot?


----------



## happyrichie

got a 8320e in my ud5 2.1 with f7e bios, initial oc running 4.3ghz and the core is drawing 1.3v in cpuz, max temp at 59c in a hot room (23ish c) with a 120mm fan blowing at 700 rpm silent mode, 10db while running prime for over an hour, pritty sweet, ive not seen a game make the cpu hit over 40c in my silent fan profile, gota say im impressed by the improvment from a 955 oced to 4ghz, loads of head room left, looking forward to maxing out the chip in my rig


----------



## MishelLngelo

Can some of you guys do me a flavor and check SSD speeds on main SATA controller. I have a Kingston V300 120 GB and a Silicon Power Velox 70 of 250GB. On Ga-870 MB I had before it was running full speed (not remarkable but good enough) and now on this MB despite everything set as it should be, SATA = in AHCI mode, tried all kinds of drivers in W 8.1 and W10 (all worked just fine before), it still runs at speeds of SATA 2 (300). Don't care too much about sequential speeds but 4K read and write are 30 and 50% less than before.
Oh yes, my BIOS is F6, didn't dare to go to F7e as my processor is only Phenom II 965 BE but at 4+ GHz. and not planing upgrade soon. This MB has all but kitchen sink so I'm not planing to change it soon either.


----------



## siriq

I will do SSD speed check since i have an new SSD now. I may install it this or next week.


----------



## GokAy

Even though seq read/write is reasonable for my Samsung 512GB 850 Pro, the IOPS are half of what they should be and AS SSD score is also pretty low (680-msahci) with respect to Intel boards (1050-iaStor). This is with Windows 7 Ult SP1.


----------



## siriq

I am gonna test it with win 10 and F4 bios.


----------



## jihe

I've got the UD7, a very nice board indeed. Is there any beta bios which allows me to use am3+ cpus?


----------



## siriq

Not sure, i will take a look.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Some reported that BIOS F7e is compatible with v2.1 and lets them use FX processors. Don't have one of those to try and not sure if Phenom2 would run with that BIOS. My main computer and don't want to risk it now.


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Some reported that BIOS F7e is compatible with v2.1 and lets them use FX processors. Don't have one of those to try and not sure if Phenom2 would run with that BIOS. My main computer and don't want to risk it now.


mine is running sweet, ud5 2.1 to f7e, it took me 2 tries and a glitch till the bios installed properly but has been faultless since, sill running 8320e at 4.3ghz 1.3v, just about to see where i can go with this set up but i have quiet air cooling so should be a laugh, how hot can a 8320e go? i think the northbridge gets real hot


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> mine is running sweet, ud5 2.1 to f7e, it took me 2 tries and a glitch till the bios installed properly but has been faultless since, sill running 8320e at 4.3ghz 1.3v, just about to see where i can go with this set up but i have quiet air cooling so should be a laugh, how hot can a 8320e go? i think the northbridge gets real hot


Good to know, I still will have to be sure it works with my Ph II 965 BE, don't have any FX to use (yet). 8320e (i guess it means economy) uses less power than ordinary one but still has a ceiling of about 62c indicated. Chipset runs hot even with my processor but it's OCed to 4 GHz, not as much as my previous 870 which was pushing 80c before I put a fan on it, nowadays its ~50c during hot weather.


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Good to know, I still will have to be sure it works with my Ph II 965 BE, don't have any FX to use (yet). 8320e (i guess it means economy) uses less power than ordinary one but still has a ceiling of about 62c indicated. Chipset runs hot even with my processor but it's OCed to 4 GHz, not as much as my previous 870 which was pushing 80c before I put a fan on it, nowadays its ~50c during hot weather.


ye the ceiling is the only thing that pushes me back 2 intel.. never bothered trying my 955 on f7e, my 8320e works so why would i try a 955? cant imagine their would be any problems thou, my 955 at 4.2 was rocking about 70c in prime where as my 8320e 4.3 maxes at 60c.

im being stupid, my 955 does work after the 1st try the bios reverted back with my 955 in it, then i updated the bios again and it was my 955 that 1st booted in f7e, as soon as it worked i shut down and reinstalled the 8320e.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> ye the ceiling is the only thing that pushes me back 2 intel.. never bothered trying my 955 on f7e, my 8320e works so why would i try a 955? cant imagine their would be any problems thou, my 955 at 4.2 was rocking about 70c in prime where as my 8320e 4.3 maxes at 60c.
> 
> im being stupid, my 955 does work after the 1st try the bios reverted back with my 955 in it, then i updated the bios again and it was my 955 that 1st booted in f7e, as soon as it worked i shut down and reinstalled the 8320e.


Tnx, so I shall try that bios soon, right now I'm interested in it because of problems with SSD speed which is on the level of SATA2 and no drivers will make it better on W7. 8.1 and 10. Tried a dozen or more and nothing.
Heat can be controlled by better CPU cooler, with my Scythe Mugen 3 never reaches more than 55c at 4GHz, lowered it from 4.2 for summer though.


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Tnx, so I shall try that bios soon, right now I'm interested in it because of problems with SSD speed which is on the level of SATA2 and no drivers will make it better on W7. 8.1 and 10. Tried a dozen or more and nothing.
> Heat can be controlled by better CPU cooler, with my Scythe Mugen 3 never reaches more than 55c at 4GHz, lowered it from 4.2 for summer though.


f7e was glichy when i tried 2 change settings untill i saved my 1st bios setting change, then it stopped gliching. give me another week or 2 as i have 2 ssd's 2 try out as well but i really need 2 do a fresh os install 1st. 500mb read speeds inbound (i hope


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> f7e was glichy when i tried 2 change settings untill i saved my 1st bios setting change, then it stopped gliching. give me another week or 2 as i have 2 ssd's 2 try out as well but i really need 2 do a fresh os install 1st. 500mb read speeds inbound (i hope


Oki, tnx again, I'm still chasing a good deal on a used 6300 -6350, don't need much more for now.


----------



## christoph

does anyone know, whats the biggest FX series cpu that the U5 motherboard will support with the f7 bios?


----------



## MishelLngelo

Supposedly all FX8xxx, 9s use just too much power, like over 200 - 220 W.


----------



## christoph

so all the 8s??? good


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> so all the 8s??? good


only the f7e worked with my 8320e, i wouldnt put a 9xxx in here 2 much power, now days its really got 2 be an e chip unless u get a good deal on 1 of the others and if u expecting BIG overclocks the north bridge needs cooling or better heat sink, i think my north bridge is on its limits with 1.375v on cpu and no oc on the north bridge. i was after a 1055t but they are crazy expensive so i went 4 the 8320e, i dont know if i would bother upgrading from that if its got a good overclock. in games my 955 at 4.2 was better than my 8320e at 4ghz, it was only when i clocked higher that their was a perceptible performance increase other than a slightly cooler cpu and several idle cores lol


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> only the f7e worked with my 8320e, i wouldnt put a 9xxx in here 2 much power, now days its really got 2 be an e chip unless u get a good deal on 1 of the others and if u expecting BIG overclocks the north bridge needs cooling or better heat sink, i think my north bridge is on its limits with 1.375v on cpu and no oc on the north bridge. i was after a 1055t but they are crazy expensive so i went 4 the 8320e, i dont know if i would bother upgrading from that if its got a good overclock. in games my 955 at 4.2 was better than my 8320e at 4ghz, it was only when i clocked higher that their was a perceptible performance increase other than a slightly cooler cpu and several idle cores lol


yeah, I wouldn't upgrade the chip right now, but I will be getting a new video card anytime soon, I will be buying 2 SSDs for a Raid 0 this week, and I'll leave my SSD that I own right now for my VMs


----------



## jihe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> only the f7e worked with my 8320e, i wouldnt put a 9xxx in here 2 much power, now days its really got 2 be an e chip unless u get a good deal on 1 of the others and if u expecting BIG overclocks the north bridge needs cooling or better heat sink, i think my north bridge is on its limits with 1.375v on cpu and no oc on the north bridge. i was after a 1055t but they are crazy expensive so i went 4 the 8320e, i dont know if i would bother upgrading from that if its got a good overclock. in games my 955 at 4.2 was better than my 8320e at 4ghz, it was only when i clocked higher that their was a perceptible performance increase other than a slightly cooler cpu and several idle cores lol


You have the UD5 with the black socket right?


----------



## ochi2006

Hello I have a GA-890FXA-UD5 v2.0 and bios 89fxau52.f7e. I installed a FX 8350 but I only see 6 cores instead of 8 cores. in bios you disappeared cores unlocked you can help me Thanks


----------



## ochi2006

FX8350.jpg 603k .jpg file


----------



## christoph

did you change something in msconfig?


----------



## ochi2006

[no I do not see the two core it in msconfig it in bios. before I was 6-core enabled now are all gone


----------



## christoph

had you tried clearing the bios, with the new bios of course


----------



## ochi2006

rewrote the bios but the latest core 2 does not start


----------



## ochi2006

help me


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ochi2006*
> 
> Hello I have a GA-890FXA-UD5 v2.0 and bios 89fxau52.f7e. I installed a FX 8350 but I only see 6 cores instead of 8 cores. in bios you disappeared cores unlocked you can help me Thanks


The revision 2 or 2.1 with the white socket does not work properly with the F7E bios. The version 3 black socket boards work. Kind of lol! It also does not support FX cpu's The board can't handle the electrical demands of a 6300 or 8350 etc..... It will throttle and the multi will fluctuate like crazy. Get a board that supports the 8350. Or sell the 8350 and get a six core Thuban.


----------



## ochi2006

But after 4041 they say they have succeeded and that worked fine all


----------



## happyrichie

i have the white socket, still at 4.3ghz, tried 2 hit 4.5 but the clocks go a bit crazy jumping all over the place and 4.3 is enough 4 me atm(sticks 2 4.3 no jumping around), with my 960 @1530mhz it throttles like crazy at 30-50c and causes me no end of problems so ive left my 8320e alone 4 a while. didnt have any problems with only a few cores showing, all my cores worked as soon as i started


----------



## happyrichie

the only problem ive had is core temp program goes a bit strange and reports low temps but on restart it corrects its self...


----------



## ochi2006

As the series 2.0 and 3.1 of the motherboard will have the same components but the chip of the bios are 2x8mb in 2.0 and 3.1 in 2x16mb. physically should replace the chip of 2.0 with that of 3.1 say that would work? now with bios F7E the FX 8350 works only 6-core and I think it's the little bios for all instructions


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ochi2006*
> 
> As the series 2.0 and 3.1 of the motherboard will have the same components but the chip of the bios are 2x8mb in 2.0 and 3.1 in 2x16mb. physically should replace the chip of 2.0 with that of 3.1 say that would work? now with bios F7E the FX 8350 works only 6-core and I think it's the little bios for all instructions


My advice is to get a board that works properly with the 8350. Or get a Thuban and sell the 8350.


----------



## hesho

a little bit random. I just reformatted my computer for the first time in like 8 years and now i can't get my audio to work. I get no bass at all. Any suggestion on which driver version i should try using?


----------



## christoph

use the one in the Gigabyte site


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hesho*
> 
> a little bit random. I just reformatted my computer for the first time in like 8 years and now i can't get my audio to work. I get no bass at all. Any suggestion on which driver version i should try using?


http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/downloadsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false


----------



## hesho

i tried both drivers already. Both don't give me any bass. No sound from my sub ever comes out. It does come from my center channel though so i know my speakers works. What is odd is that even in the speaker test, no sound from the sub comes...

well.. i think i figured it out... my center/sub port isn't working as i switched ports and it works fine  rather odd.

on a different note.. i plugged in my other hard drives finally and now i get insane boot up times (around 1-3 minutes).

i checked the event logs and i see a whole bunch of this "The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Ide\IdePort2." anyone know which sata port that is?


----------



## siriq

Just in case, i tried to install F7e bios on my mobo. I figured out, how. Only way to do it in DOS mode with gigabyte flash utility. Tried few times with bios utility(qflash) as well but didn't work.
So once again, try to flash your bios in DOS mode, specially with the F7e. Soon i will install Fx 8350 and water cooling as well, nepton 240m.

I will definitely going to try amdmsrtweaker :


----------



## christoph

nice of you to share that info...


----------



## siriq

I found some "interesting things" as well in the BIOS after upgrade. CnQ option can't be change in the BIOS anymore. Simply freezing. In windows i cannot see the core temp anymore. However runs great as usually. OC potential did not changed. Well if i got time FX comes in next few days into my mobo. I have it , just not sure when i have to to put it in.


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Tnx, so I shall try that bios soon, right now I'm interested in it because of problems with SSD speed which is on the level of SATA2 and no drivers will make it better on W7. 8.1 and 10. Tried a dozen or more and nothing.
> Heat can be controlled by better CPU cooler, with my Scythe Mugen 3 never reaches more than 55c at 4GHz, lowered it from 4.2 for summer though.


finally got my windows 7 reinstalled with my crucial mx100 256gb ssd as c: drive, sata 3, achi


still stuck @4.3 with cpu, this board just cant push anymore volts, with a bit of north bridge cooling and with a few more tests i might be able 2 hit 4.4 but ive tried lots 2 push it higher. had no problems reinstalling windows with this build, bin fun, now just my ram 2 go


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> finally got my windows 7 reinstalled with my crucial mx100 256gb ssd as c: drive, sata 3, achi
> 
> 
> still stuck @4.3 with cpu, this board just cant push anymore volts, with a bit of north bridge cooling and with a few more tests i might be able 2 hit 4.4 but ive tried lots 2 push it higher. had no problems reinstalling windows with this build, bin fun, now just my ram 2 go


Not bad numbers but I never managed to fix SSD performance on this MB so I changed to Ga-990fx-UD3 and FX 6350 which is now running at 4.7 HGz and SSDs are running full speed. I guess I'm out of this club although I'm keeping old MB, Ph2 965Be for a spare computer, still viable platform.


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Not bad numbers but I never managed to fix SSD performance on this MB so I changed to Ga-990fx-UD3 and FX 6350 which is now running at 4.7 HGz and SSDs are running full speed. I guess I'm out of this club although I'm keeping old MB, Ph2 965Be for a spare computer, still viable platform.


4.7, i wish lol, well i got everything working over here except the usb3, im still at usb2 which sucks!! cant have everything though









im gona get a new itx mobo and use my 955 as a server, great little chips


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> 4.7, i wish lol, well i got everything working over here except the usb3, im still at usb2 which sucks!! cant have everything though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im gona get a new itx mobo and use my 955 as a server, great little chips


I guess that FX 8xxx are not really native on those chipsets but just an afterthought. Very solid MB, should be able to OC more.


----------



## siriq

I just installed the FX 8350 . Nicely working. I only had to do a bios reset. Working at 4.00 ghz for now. Maybe tonight i will set it up to 4.4-4.5.


----------



## ochi2006

excuse but have you checked whether all 8 cores


----------



## siriq

Yup. It is all fine. Except my vcore is reported back wrong in windows for some reason. All 8 cores now running at 4.4 Did some testing as well. NB freq is upped to 2400 mhz.

Gonna do some gaming test now. Had enough from benches .


----------



## siriq

So i did some testing with games too. 4.4 is just fine. Also got another questions in my mind. Somehow the vcore and nb core reporting back wrong. Wanna find out how can i measure it and why? Gonna leave it for now. Just too tired.


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> So i did some testing with games too. 4.4 is just fine. Also got another questions in my mind. Somehow the vcore and nb core reporting back wrong. Wanna find out how can i measure it and why? Gonna leave it for now. Just too tired.


how'd u do dat?!? ive not touched the nb feq, but if u don't mind when u finished oc'ing can u tell me your settings please?

still stuck @4.3 but I think the vcore draws up 2 1.375, I think anything over 1.3 on my 8320e stops the cores throttling @4.3 but the second I touch 4.4, or 4.35 the cores go crazy bouncing around throttling, cant do anything with it and ive taken the vcore up 2 1.475, I think that's the most voltage ive tried 2 put through my cpu but I just don't think the mobo can hold that voltage, ive only used cpuz, hardware monitor (I think that's what its called), and cputemp and watched as im prime95ing and gaming. usually what I see is eg. bios set at 1.3 vcore and then in cpuz as im doing tasks like prime or a game the cpuz will report all kinds of vcore like of the top of my head I think its this, 0.95v idle, 1.3v gaming and some times 1.375 like when im in prime. I have a similar issue with the cpu temps being reported wrong much like the cpu vore but as long as the vcore is staying below 1.5 in cpuz ive not really thought much about it cause u know, why worry? I know my cpu maxes @60c in prime so ive not worried about the vcore and temp being reported wrong.

have u tried turning it off and back on? some times that sorts out the temp reporting wrong, it usually reports the wrong temp after my system gets woken up from sleep mode.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> how'd u do dat?!? ive not touched the nb feq, but if u don't mind when u finished oc'ing can u tell me your settings please?
> 
> still stuck @4.3 but I think the vcore draws up 2 1.375, I think anything over 1.3 on my 8320e stops the cores throttling @4.3 but the second I touch 4.4, or 4.35 the cores go crazy bouncing around throttling, cant do anything with it and ive taken the vcore up 2 1.475, I think that's the most voltage ive tried 2 put through my cpu but I just don't think the mobo can hold that voltage, ive only used cpuz, hardware monitor (I think that's what its called), and cputemp and watched as im prime95ing and gaming. usually what I see is eg. bios set at 1.3 vcore and then in cpuz as im doing tasks like prime or a game the cpuz will report all kinds of vcore like of the top of my head I think its this, 0.95v idle, 1.3v gaming and some times 1.375 like when im in prime. I have a similar issue with the cpu temps being reported wrong much like the cpu vore but as long as the vcore is staying below 1.5 in cpuz ive not really thought much about it cause u know, why worry? I know my cpu maxes @60c in prime so ive not worried about the vcore and temp being reported wrong.
> 
> have u tried turning it off and back on? some times that sorts out the temp reporting wrong, it usually reports the wrong temp after my system gets woken up from sleep mode.


Get AMD Overdrive, http://www.amd.com/en-us/innovations/software-technologies/technologies-gaming/over-drive much more detailed and accurate measurements.


----------



## ochi2006

sorry but you have a gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 v.2 'cause my fx8350 only works with 6 cores instead of 8. I installed the bios 89fxau52.f7e


----------



## ochi2006

can you tell me bios you put it?


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> how'd u do dat?!? ive not touched the nb feq, but if u don't mind when u finished oc'ing can u tell me your settings please?
> 
> still stuck @4.3 but I think the vcore draws up 2 1.375, I think anything over 1.3 on my 8320e stops the cores throttling @4.3 but the second I touch 4.4, or 4.35 the cores go crazy bouncing around throttling, cant do anything with it and ive taken the vcore up 2 1.475, I think that's the most voltage ive tried 2 put through my cpu but I just don't think the mobo can hold that voltage, ive only used cpuz, hardware monitor (I think that's what its called), and cputemp and watched as im prime95ing and gaming. usually what I see is eg. bios set at 1.3 vcore and then in cpuz as im doing tasks like prime or a game the cpuz will report all kinds of vcore like of the top of my head I think its this, 0.95v idle, 1.3v gaming and some times 1.375 like when im in prime. I have a similar issue with the cpu temps being reported wrong much like the cpu vore but as long as the vcore is staying below 1.5 in cpuz ive not really thought much about it cause u know, why worry? I know my cpu maxes @60c in prime so ive not worried about the vcore and temp being reported wrong.
> 
> have u tried turning it off and back on? some times that sorts out the temp reporting wrong, it usually reports the wrong temp after my system gets woken up from sleep mode.


I only changed the cpu multi to 22 and added some extra volt in bios too to vcore. Right now i am at 4.5 . I had to lower nb from 2400 to 2200 because somehow the extra voltage doesn't apply to it. I will figour it out later. Ohh, turno is disabled also in bios. CnQ is on.


Ignore the vcore what is reported by programs. Temp is reporting fine with FX but with my 1090T was false.


----------



## siriq

3Dmark API overhead test with old and new cpu:
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/9211957

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/9678575

DX12 with GTX 570.


----------



## ochi2006

sorry SIRIQ can you tell me that you put bios for the motherboard?


----------



## siriq

I sent you a pm but here as well i share it. So i downloaded the latest bios with the utility from gigabyte site(F6) to make a bootable usb drive. http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-890fxa-ud5_v2.x_f6.exe Then a replaced F6 with F7e.(if you don't have F7e bios i can upload it) Also changed the name in the autoexec.bat on the usb drive. Now only have to do is, boot and let it run the auto bios update from usb drive.


----------



## ochi2006

excuse you can send the file via e-mail F7E [email protected]


----------



## siriq

Done!


----------



## ochi2006

thanks but I can not get it going 8-core, 6-core continues to operate


----------



## ochi2006

ok now work all 8 cores. msconfig had been set at 6 cores old phenom ii 1090T


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ochi2006*
> 
> ok now work all 8 cores. msconfig had been set at 6 cores old phenom ii 1090T


ok, all 8 cores running??

what MOBO and revision, Bios and what CPU????


----------



## ochi2006

Motherboard

GA-890FXA-UD5 vers 2.0

CPU

FX8350 oc 4.7 Ghz

Bios

F7e


----------



## siriq

Nice!

I haven't tested my max OC yet. Maybe i never will. 4.5 is fine for me, don't wanna push it too much.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ochi2006*
> 
> Motherboard
> 
> GA-890FXA-UD5 vers 2.0
> 
> CPU
> 
> FX8350 oc 4.7 Ghz
> 
> Bios
> 
> F7e


nice, and don't want to push it, but is that the highest OC you could get??


----------



## siriq

Hmm, kinda don't know ...
I got water cooling. Also a very cold room. I never seen more than 28 c on my cpu under load(temp reported back right). Should i go for 5 Ghz test and risk my board or not? Cooling is just more than enough to do it.

Seems to me, this chip can do golden ghz








According to CPU-Z , the CPU @ 4.5 only with 1.328 Vcore.

Ohh, i know why this bios is buged. Because the P-States. I try to find a solution for that.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> Hmm, kinda don't know ...
> I got water cooling. Also a very cold room. I never seen more than 28 c on my cpu under load(temp reported back right). Should i go for 5 Ghz test and risk my board or not? Cooling is just more than enough to do it.
> 
> Seems to me, this chip can do golden ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to CPU-Z , the CPU @ 4.5 only with 1.328 Vcore.
> 
> Ohh, i know why this bios is buged. Because the P-States. I try to find a solution for that.


oh then don't risk it


----------



## siriq

Means a yes for me








Will do it tomorrow


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> Means a yes for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will do it tomorrow












don't forget to post results


----------



## siriq

Will not forget








I am watching a movie, otherwise i would do it now.Just lazy and it is late now to finish it later.


----------



## siriq

I did a quick run @4.8 . Maybe tomorrow i will do one more again if i got time for it. [email protected]


----------



## christoph

4.8 Ghz with only 1.4v ??????????????????


----------



## siriq

Yeah, i mention before this chip is "golden series" .







I got it for free. However this isn't the max OC, I had no time for it today. I will make a better screenshot about the Vcore next time.


----------



## siriq

Almost forgot! You can turn off APM as well! Tested it last week. As i mention before, i had no time yet to full test P-states bug solution and sort of things yet. I may need to install the SSD , not just keep it in the original box







( i have almost 3 months now, lack of quality time) Restart in windows takes time and to do times 20 a day just to do this bench and solution is request extra time .


----------



## christoph

is alright take your time, you've already provided enough info


----------



## siriq

So, if you wish to turn off APM , then use amd msr tweaker 1.1 ( http://extreme.pcgameshardware.de/attachments/672949d1376157633-amdmsrtweaker-1-1-anleitung-amdmsrtweaker_1.1.zip ) . http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285742-AmdMsrTweaker-New-Versions
If you like GUI then use PShceck ( http://www.overclockers.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/PST_3_4_1.zip ) . There are many tutorials how to use them. Need help? Let me know!

P.S. : Looks like my rest of the 8 gigs of Corsair ram died. I have to stick to 12 gigs for now.








it has nothing to do with the CPU change. I had problem already with the old Phenom too. I had hope it maybe the CPU but it is not.


----------



## christoph

corsair RAM died, really???


----------



## siriq

Yup, well still got 12 gigs of ram. Not as good as 16 but still ok. I use my "spare" Kingston for now with the rest of the Corsair.


----------



## siriq

One more thing, make sure you guys try ganged mode for ram. I got lot better results everywhere compare to unganged mode.

Before (unganged) : http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/9820499
After (ganged) : http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/9820424


----------



## christoph

so ganged with FX series???


----------



## siriq

Yeah. Ganged with FX. Unganged was better with X6.


----------



## MishelLngelo

But no Dual Channel in ganged mode !


----------



## siriq

Ganged mode is dual channel so as unganged. I think you just mixing up things.
Clear it up: http://ixbtlabs.com/articles3/cpu/amd-phenom-x4-9850-ganged-unganged-p1.html
"_Ganged and unganged have nothing to do with dual and single channel modes. Both ganged and unganged can work in dual channel mode.

Ganged mode operates the 2 internal memory controllers as one unit, 1x 128bit, slightly greater preformance for single threaded software.

Unganged utilizes the two controllers independently, 2x 64bit, slightly better for multithreaded software.

Generally, unganged is becoming more favoured as many programs move towards multithreading._"
To be honest ganged mode works better for my FX in most case.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Right, this is what is in the manual:
DCTs Mode
Allows you to set memory control mode.
Ganged Sets memory control mode to single dual-channel.
Unganged Sets memory control mode to two single-channel. (Default)


----------



## siriq

Please read the comment again or search for ganged vs unganged mode. This is an old story.
Anyway , you wrote the same thing, just have a feeling you don't understand the meaning of it.


----------



## siriq

This mobo more than capable to do 5 GHz. I don't really understand why Giga has not payed more attention to release more update bios?!


----------



## christoph

who knows, but the support ended early for this MOBO


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> Please read the comment again or search for ganged vs unganged mode. This is an old story.
> Anyway , you wrote the same thing, just have a feeling you don't understand the meaning of it.


I just quoted from the manual, I got it now !!!


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> who knows, but the support ended early for this MOBO


Yeah, way to early. Those "new" 990 chipset not even way better.

Happy New Year To Everyone and Merry Xmas!


----------



## christoph

merry Xmas to you too, take it easy on the dinner....


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> merry Xmas to you too, take it easy on the dinner....


How do you know i do cook?


----------



## christoph

you do? nice, other thing I like than be playing games is to eat


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> How do you know i do cook?


cook your 8350 no doubt


----------



## SummGuy

I'm trying to install XP-pro 32-bit on a system with Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 (rev 3.0) motherboard and all attempts have result in the system continuously rebooting after the "DOS" portion of the installation process is done.

The hard drive is a 320 gb WD sata drive, formatted with a 30 gb FAT32 partition with 4kb cluster size and win98 DOS. The rest of the drive is unformatted / unpartitioned. XP-sp3 CD copied to its own directory on the drive. The drive is connected to either SATA-0 or SATA-1 port (can't tell which one) on the board (one of the "blue" connectors). In the BIOS I have 3 choices: "NATIVE IDE" or "AHCI" or "RAID". There is 4gb of ram on the board.

I've done this before on different systems - I prefer to run XP from a FAT32 volume as it allows me to dual-boot into DOS if I need to have full/complete access to the file system under a non-NT-based OS. I still have some volumes formatted as NTFS as a place to store large files (over 4gb).

If I set the BIOS for "NATIVE IDE", then I can boot DOS with himem.sys (with the numhandles setting) and smartdrv is happy. But I want to install XP with the SATA interface already set to "SATA" (which I guess is AHCI), but with that setting DOS craps out when himem.sys is loaded:

Loading Operating System

==================
The following file is missing or corrupted: c:\dos\emm386.exe
there is an error in your config.sys file on line 4

The following file is missing or corrupted: Command.com
Type the name of the Command Interpreter (e.g. C:\windows\command.com)

C>
=================

Ok, so instead of trying to install XP from CD-copy on the drive after booting DOS, I boot from actual CD instead. BIOS is set to AHCI. Destination for install is the FAT32 partition.

I get the "press f6" thing to supply SATA drive on floppy, and I give it the floppy, select the x86 driver and continue, get the EULA and press f8, I think there is 1 reboot, it continues, then there is one more reboot which ends the "DOS" portion of the install. It's at this point that it just simply keeps rebooting.

Ok, fine. Go back to bios, set the drive for NATIVE IDE. Boot the drive into DOS with himem and smartdrv, delete all the garbage that the XP install left behind, perform a "sys c:" command from the floppy just to be sure, restart XP install from hard drive image, do all this twice (once where I press F6 and give XP the SATA drive, another time where I bypass this step), and I do this a third time (install from CD).

And still I get same result - system gets into reboot cycle upon transition out of DOS portion of installation.

This is my first ever experience with AMD based motherboard. Motherboard was bought on ebay about 6 months ago and at the time I got it all I did to test it was throw a CPU and RAM into it and test it with memtest86 booted/loaded from floppy (it passed).

What is going on here?

Should XP install be able to work with ANY sata controller if set to IDE mode without needing F6 driver on floppy? Or is this only true with older hardware (or intel-based chipsets)?

Why can't I get past the DOS-based portion of XP install on this motherboard?


----------



## christoph

have you install windows xp with that same exact cd on another computer, just to make sure it is good???

have you formatted the hard drive using the windows xp cd, in "slow format"????


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> cook your 8350 no doubt


Well, it was free from AMD. So i don't mind to push it








I was thinking to go straight to Intel but always wanted to try FX CPU. Only worth it , if you have for free or very little money.

Ohh btw. , make sure you got enough cooling on mobo VRM. It can go high!


----------



## SummGuy

> have you install windows xp with that same exact cd on another computer, just to make sure it is good???

The CD was copied to the hard drive before starting the installation process. The hard drive was slaved to a working computer, a directory called "c:\XP-cd" was created and the CD was copied into that directory. There were no read errors during the copy. The CD is an actual Microsoft cd, with hologram. It is a Windows XP pro, SP3 cd, System Builder edition. The cd has been out of it's paper folder only a handful of times. It has no scratches.

> have you formatted the hard drive using the windows xp cd, in "slow format"????

A 30 gb FAT32 partion was created and formatted while the drive was connected as a slave to a second computer. The remaining 300 gb of drive space was (at first) unformatted.

When the drive was connected to the 890FXA motherboard as the primary (only) drive and I was trying to perform the XP installation on it, I was telling it to install XP to the pre-formatted FAT32 partition. I've done this many times in the past on other machines with different motherboards, so I know it can be done. And as I wrote in the previous post, the installation process goes smoothly until the "DOS" or "TEXT" phase of the install is finished, and it tries to reboot into the protected phase and continue the install. Instead of correctly entering the protected phase, the computer simply reboots.


----------



## SummGuy

For the GA-890FXA, if I have a SATA drive connected to one of the 6 Blue sata connectors (either sata-0 or sata-1), and if I have the bios set for "NATIVE IDE" mode, do I have to supply a sata driver on floppy (F6) during XP install?

Side note: During a cold boot I'm not able to see the POST information at all on this board, probably because my monitor is not responding quickly enough to mode changes while various bios / post information is being displayed.


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SummGuy*
> 
> For the GA-890FXA, if I have a SATA drive connected to one of the 6 Blue sata connectors (either sata-0 or sata-1), and if I have the bios set for "NATIVE IDE" mode, do I have to supply a sata driver on floppy (F6) during XP install?
> 
> Side note: During a cold boot I'm not able to see the POST information at all on this board, probably because my monitor is not responding quickly enough to mode changes while various bios / post information is being displayed.


Just do a quick soft reset after boot(cntrl alt del) and you could see the post or even pause it with pause button on keyboard.


----------



## christoph

and no, you would not need enter the F6 key to upload the drivers...


----------



## siriq

One more thing, i did few tweaks and i got very same result with the 990FX in Cinebench r15. I could do more score if i go for 1866 ram speed but i am lazy to take out the spare rams YET!








Basically, if you wounder about the performance hit compare to "new" 9xx series , you got zero. Only few features are cut down in bios.


----------



## christoph

now that is something real good to know; but can you make a list about what features are not presented?


----------



## SummGuy

I have successfully installed XP on the system in question (GA-890FXA).

The problem of constant re-booting when the system transitions from the "Text" phase into the VGA-GUI phase was solved by turning off the second CPU core in the bios. The CPU is a retail-box Sempron 145. Some motherboards have a "feature" to activate second cores on some AMD cpu's sold as single-core. This appeared to work fine on this board, but I guess this is one of those cases where one of the cores on this die was flawed, and hence what could have been an Athlon was turned into a Sempron.

Funny thing though, Windows system information identifies the CPU as an Athlon 4450e, but task manager shows only 1 core.

And despite my best efforts to ride the pause/break and space-bar keys during boot, I'm not able to freeze the boot-up at any point that shows a screen-full of post information.


----------



## Black Flag

Has anyone used the new 990fx motherboard?

The GA-990FX-Gaming?

I want to know how's the overclocking ability and if is better than the UD7.


----------



## siriq

990FX UD 3 , pretty much good OC.


----------



## siriq

Also i am thinking to swap my GTX 570 to 580 with 3 GB vram. Almost no extra cost, just to keep my bench habit to do on Fermi


----------



## christoph

ohhh right


----------



## monikersupreme

Having a problem with this motherboad (BIOS revision F6) and was wondering if anyone here could help out.

I recently replaced the GPU (Sapphire 5870) with a Radeon R9 Fury/Nano and seem to have hosed my machine - namely the welcome screen to the BIOS shows up scrambled (but I can still reach the BIOS) and the primary drive (Crucial SSD) suddenly will not boot. I've replaced the CMOS battery (and reset the CMOS as well) and have tried different BIOS settings (including fail-safe settings) with no luck.

The drives were partitioned into a primary boot drive (the SSD) and a secondary RAID5 array (chipset) with a secondary drive for storing backups of the OS (Win7 Ultimate).

Tldr; has anyone here had problems with the new Radeon R9 series - specifically the Fury Nano and X?

Thanks in advance!!


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monikersupreme*
> 
> Having a problem with this motherboad (BIOS revision F6) and was wondering if anyone here could help out.
> 
> I recently replaced the GPU (Sapphire 5870) with a Radeon R9 Fury/Nano and seem to have hosed my machine - namely the welcome screen to the BIOS shows up scrambled (but I can still reach the BIOS) and the primary drive (Crucial SSD) suddenly will not boot. I've replaced the CMOS battery (and reset the CMOS as well) and have tried different BIOS settings (including fail-safe settings) with no luck.
> 
> The drives were partitioned into a primary boot drive (the SSD) and a secondary RAID5 array (chipset) with a secondary drive for storing backups of the OS (Win7 Ultimate).
> 
> Tldr; has anyone here had problems with the new Radeon R9 series - specifically the Fury Nano and X?
> 
> Thanks in advance!!


what do you mean "scrambled"???

did you plug the monitor into the HDMI videocard output?

try using the dvi output with a DVI to HDMI adapter


----------



## monikersupreme

I wasn't sure how else to describe it - basically I see a bunch of pixelated garbage where the initial "welcome to Gigabyte" screen should be but I can still reach the BIOS. The main problem I'm having is the inability to boot my Win7 partition or get into startup repair.

The whole thing began once I'd installed the new card and was attempting to install the latest Radeon "Crimson" hot-fix.

Not sure where to go from here... if I know that the BIOS isn't the problem (already replaced the CMOS battery just in case) then I can start looking at the drivers or possibly the SSD or DDR (although it seems odd that the problems would only manifest when the GPU was replaced).

How can I determine if the BIOS is sound?


----------



## christoph

Like I ask

Do you have your monitor plug through the HDMI cable to the HDMI port in the video card??

try with the DVI or the DP


----------



## monikersupreme

Sorry - I have four monitors, 3 x DP and 1 x HDMI (converted to DVI) - 2 x of the the DP monitors are what show the pixelated garbage of what should have been the BIOS welcome screen.


----------



## christoph

what if you try only 3 monitors plug to the DP only??


----------



## siriq

Also try to upgrade to F7e bios. Gonna be pain in the ass if you got raid but still able to work it out.

I will do first 1 monitor different plugs(dvi dp hdmi), let's see what happens.


----------



## siriq

So i just installed the SSD with Win 10 OS today. Seems to be the speed of the SSD is operating at normal level. No lower performance detected. Will make screen later.


----------



## christoph

Oh yeah, I forgot

I was having trouble with my Raid 0 made out of 2 SSD's, so I've just re-arrange my setup, I installed one RAID 0 usin my 2 mechanical HHD in the SATA II ports, and then installed my raid 0 for my system using my 2 SSD's plug in my Sata III ports, and now everithing is working as it should, the Raid 0 out of the SSD's is working at full speed, or at least at it should


----------



## siriq

So i did some benches. Different bench , different result of course


----------



## christoph

well, we have way different results, must be the SSD's


----------



## siriq

I have crucial BX100 . It is a budget SSD


----------



## siriq

Finally my time what i have invested into tweaking and fine tuning, pays out.
Had to do some "fsb" OC to achive nb 2500 mhz(2600mhz is too much for this CPU). Memory also runs higher than 1600(1672). I could reach 4.7 ghz with the CPU and better score than i had at 4.8 in cinebench and pretty much everywhere else. CPU Vcore is only at 1.392 .


Btw. , this an 24/7 settings. No BSOD nothing so far.


----------



## monikersupreme

I have a GA-890FXA-UD5 rev 3.1 - I am attempting to flash the 89FFXAU52.F6 BIOS using the Q-Flash utility but am running into a "File size incorrect." error...

Has anyone else run into this problem?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## siriq

I don't see the bios file what you have been mentioned. http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3781#bios These are the offical rev 3.1 bios files.

I have found your file at rev 2.1 mobo. Better to check what is your motherboard revision! If it is 3.1 than you wanted to upgrade with the wrong file!


----------



## kaesar

So... Trying to OC my X4 945, but I can't manage to go past 3.5 GHz. I've disabled all those c'n'q states and other stuff like that, played with NB, HT and memory multipliers but nothing seems to be working. My last FSB was 240 and I was using 15x cpu mult, 8x NB and HT 1.45V for CPU. Tried at first with no other voltage changes, failed. Raised all of them just a bit, failed again, a little more failed again. Nothing works guys, my last mobo was DDR2 MSI 790XT-G45 and I could go 3.8 GHz very easily. My CPU now have almost six years old, maybe it's because of that but it just doesn't make sense that last mobo had fewer phases, a crappy VRM and could manage better clocks, if anybody can help me, thanks!


----------



## siriq

Hi!

You have to add some extra volt on few things. I will check in my bios. I was OC and x2 [email protected] @3.95. My multi was unlocked, so it was a bit easy job for.


----------



## siriq

I am sorry , i have completely forgot this. So very quick. Make sure your dram divider is on lowest . You can increase NB to 1.9 , NB-CPU also but cannot be higher than the CPU voltage. Exp: CPU volt: 1.36 , max nb cpu vcore 1.325-1.30 . I would say 1.3 is more than enough for nb cpu voltage(i prefer 1.275 or close to it). I couldn't go higher than 2800 mhz nb , even with higher voltage. Also give same extra volt to dram. Since you have to test this , give a small amount and test it.
Main thing is, always test one by one. Don't change many settings at the same time, unless you are sure it is stable. I just installed FX 8350 over 2 months or something like it and i had hard time at the beginning to achieve the same OC with this cpu. Now, it is flying .
Oh , since you have not unlocked cpu, you can increase HT volt a bit too. And make sure HT is lower at the beginning.


----------



## siriq

I am going for 5 Ghz soon as i have time to test the new settings. This Mobo is BEAST!


----------



## happyrichie

ok think im done with this now, thanks siriq for the help ive ended up with



pretty happy I hit my target of 4.5 but took a lot longer than I had hoped, could hit 4.7 but I believe the mobo cant keep up with the volts.
cnq on turbo off, random cores throttle all over the place but seems to have better performance than say 4.3 with no other P states which surprises me. volts max at 1.36 with 4.5.
system runs @ 12db silent profile at all times, loudest thing is the hard drives, cpu max temp around 70c in prime95, 21c ambient, not 2 shabby I'd say.

now best get back to undervoltin my 955 for this passively cooled server im building









ow yeah the temps still report wrong but on start up correct its self and cpu z gets the voltage right where as amd overdrive did not, trippy


----------



## siriq

You have to have a decent water cooling to achive high OC. I am getting close to 4.9 . Only my ram is a limit factor here. So i have to find a solition for that. Don't give up yet.


----------



## siriq

Also if you tell me where you experiencing any issues, i would help you more. Don't just give up right away!
Right now i am 4.9. Still lot of test waiting but so far so good.


----------



## blutrache

Another one bites de_dust, today I received the rev2.1 ud5 and quite happy so far, looks sturdy.
What temperature you guys get on the northbridge? (Idle and load if possible). Right now running this

Cpu-nb [email protected]
NB 1.05V
SB 1.2V
PLL 2.5V
nb/pcie/pll 1.8V
I'm gonna try to reach 4ghz, locked multiplier so bumping fsb to 297 is the only way. Any suggestions? I've done some fast tries and it seems to requiere so much more voltage despiting being "only" 200mhz more.


----------



## christoph

add some more voltage to CPU-NB

a little more to the NB, and some more to the nb/pci/pll

I have my cpu running at 4.04 GHz with 290 MHz in the FSB, and naver had any problem


----------



## blutrache

What voltage you need to reach 4ghz?
Edit: I'm trying different voltages and prob the ram is holding me back. Even at 1.45V doesn't seem to be fully stable. I had read several times that with high fsb overclocks 2T ram rate is a must. I don't know why but If I select 2T system won't even post. I miss one parameter from my old mobo, Dram refresh rate


This motherboard have lots of ram multiplier options but not that one.


----------



## siriq

I have reached 5 ghz in this mobo. Now only focus to have the highest clock speed with the lowest voltage and best nb freq. Looks like, it will be around 4.8 and 1.4 vcore.


----------



## christoph

but whats the speed of the RAM cuz those timings are a little too tight

and I'm using 1.475 for 4.04 ghz, and with the CPU-LL or whats the name?? that it gives me 1.5v when the cpu is fully strest


----------



## blutrache

I managed to solve the 2T timing, but still have the vcore problem. I'm gonna keep trying different settings, but most likely I will end up staying at 3.8. The amount of extra voltage needed is insane.
Edit: ganged or ungaged? I have 2 identical sticks and Idk wich one provides more stability.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blutrache*
> 
> I managed to solve the 2T timing, but still have the vcore problem. I'm gonna keep trying different settings, but most likely I will end up staying at 3.8. The amount of extra voltage needed is insane.
> Edit: ganged or ungaged? I have 2 identical sticks and Idk wich one provides more stability.


unganged


----------



## blutrache

I'm gonna test this for about 8h with prime95 small FFT.
0.1V for only 200mhz, hope I'm missing sth.
Edit:

Now I'm gonna try to reach 4.1ghz w/o increasing the voltage.


----------



## christoph

but you added voltage to the NB right? cuz you're running the MOBO at 297 MHz...


----------



## blutrache

I found that running HT link at 2.4ghz rather than 2.1 (closest I could get to the 2ghz mark) gives more stability and performance. Currently trying 300fsb with 1.376V, anything beyond that 300mhz crash no matter the voltage.


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blutrache*
> 
> 
> I'm gonna test this for about 8h with prime95 small FFT.
> 0.1V for only 200mhz, hope I'm missing sth.
> Edit:
> 
> Now I'm gonna try to reach 4.1ghz w/o increasing the voltage.


You can give 1.9 to NB , which gives extra stability to OC. Cpu-nb you can go high as 1.35 . Normally 1.3 is more than enough and also gives you extra stability. Losen you drams timing also to be considered(ns timing can be set to higher to achive more oc in bios), after you found the best oc just test what is the best for it. I did this on amd mobile barton [email protected] mhz, 939 x2 @ 3950 , PII [email protected] @3.950 mhz , PII X6 @3.9 and now with FX [email protected] ghz.. I only didn't oc my 386 dx because i had no idea that time how to do it









NB freq is also very important. Mine stopped at 2800 mhz. Yours may vary. Some PII users reported max nb clock 2400-2500. I have the same issue with FX . Cannot past 2600, no matter what i do.


----------



## blutrache

Ty both for the tips. Increasing NB voltage didn't help, atm running it at 1.05V with no issues, later on I might try it at 0.95V


Rather than voltages what I think is really holding back my cpu is the locked multiplier, the motherboard seems to struggle a lot with more than 300mhz. What are your Northbridge temps? Any direct ventilation in front of the heatsink?


----------



## siriq

I have water cooling but with good ventilation. Temp is not a problem. I can get 5 ghz but with less nb freq, which leads me to less overall performance. So i am i 4.770 , nb @ 2544. i maybe able to get it to 2570 but considering the time investment, not worth it.


----------



## Flagada

GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 2.0 compatible with FX-9550 if I upgrade the bios to F7e?


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flagada*
> 
> GA-890FXA-UD5 Rev 2.0 compatible with FX-9550 if I upgrade the bios to F7e?


no I don't think so, if u got an 9550 get a better board, I mean it could work in theory but u gona struggle to push that chip, i had 2 invest a lot of time 2 get my 8320e up 2 4.7 on air, this board struggles with the hi voltage and north bridge cooing


----------



## siriq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> no I don't think so, if u got an 9550 get a better board, I mean it could work in theory but u gona struggle to push that chip, i had 2 invest a lot of time 2 get my 8320e up 2 4.7 on air, this board struggles with the hi voltage and north bridge cooing


I have [email protected] with 1.44 vcore. I could push it over 5 ghz but my memory and NB freq won't be optimal. All of them overclocked.

I am quiet happy with all of the settings but if i have more time, i may try 5.2 ghz and play with NB and memory freq.


----------



## siriq

So i just bumped up the vcore to 1.504 and 4876 mhz on cpu just to see the high voltage thing. This is not optimized at all, just wanted to see how it works. At 4990 cine scores around 787.


So this mobo is very capable to handle high cpu vcore with the right PSU and cooling solutions.

Even my 750w Seasonic PSU , which is capable to provide around 850w without any problem struggles to give the right balance to CPU and GPU at the same time. These overclocked CPU's are monster at energy eating. Not to mention the GTX [email protected] mhz or sometimes i push it over







. This GTX 580 provide pretty much the same score as the GTX 950 at overclocked.


----------



## happyrichie

I don't really know how my seasonic psu reacts 2 what I am doing but ive just been running at 4.3 cause that's all I need mostly, its pretty flawless though, and then again ive just bought a new 120mm fan for the side panel of my case, so im gona kick out the 960 and drop in a fury or a polaris soon and see if I can finally hit 4.5 stable in quiet fan mode, fun times ahead.

ive also built a server and taken 4 hd's out of this rig, should help


----------



## siriq

You should be fine, if you like to have my settings, let me know! I will make some screens about my bios settings. I hope it will help a bit. Oh, i just tested 4.85 ghz accidentally







It is completely stable.


----------



## siriq

Gonna do a lowest voltage to 4.0 and 4.3 GHz soon. I leave NB on default so as the memory to test it.


----------



## siriq

So 4300 mhz with 1.264 vcore is just fine. I haven't had time for 4000 mhz to test it but i would say around 1.1 vcore.


----------



## Mr Torture

Hi , I am now teetering on weather to upgrade to 16GB RAM as DOOM is begging for it and it is relatively cheap but aren't sure if 2 8GB sticks will work in this board so thought I would ask . It does say it will do a max of 16GB .

Will these http://www.corsair.com/en/vengeance-lp-memory-16gb-1600mhz-cl9-ddr3-cml16gx3m2a1600c9 run OK if set to 1333MHz in my Rev 2.0 GA-890FXA-UD5 with my 1090T @ 4GHz ?

Thanks .


----------



## Mr Torture

double post delete please


----------



## christoph

noo, is not 16 max is 32 where did you get that from?


----------



## Mr Torture

Here mate , it clearly says 16GB max . http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3417#sp

Or do you think that information is incorrect ? I can see it will run 4 X 4 GB sticks but I'm not sure if it will run 16GB if it is 2 X 8 GB sticks . Hmm .


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urmelus*
> 
> the User "b2082863" uses F6 BIOS, His screenshots shows that it seams to work.
> 
> I am using F7e, and I can say, YES it works without problems


Aha ! So My F4 Bios wont allow 8GB Sticks ? Not sure why b2082863 on page 401 says " 890FX with 32GB RAM @ 1600 Rev. 1.0 F6 " . Firstly that is not 32GB it is 16GB ! And there is no rev 1 as the first board is rev 2.0 that I have , no ?

So if I don't wont to mess with the bios again looks like these are the only option http://www.corsair.com/en-au/xms3-16gb-dual-channel-ddr3-memory-kit-cmx16gx3m4a1600c9 That's an extra $40 Australian compared to the 2 X 8GB sticks but I REALLY don't want to take chances with the rig messing with bios again at this point in it's life span and being it is still my main PC and will be for at least another year .

Well , I have some thinking to do I guess . At least I found some helpful information here


----------



## Mr Torture

*WOW !

I asked Gigabyte and got this lame answer from someone who clearly has no skills or knowledge . They just tell me what I OBVIOUSLY already know ! What a joke , won't bother asking them again .*

As follows :

Question: Hi , I need to know if I can run 2X 8GB Sticks in my Mother Board being CML16GX3M2A1600C9 to upgrade to 16GB from the current 8GB installed . Or would I need to use 4 X 4GB sticks being CMX16GX3M4A1600C9 . Is there a bios update needed to run the 8GB sticks or is the F4 going to allow me to use 8GB sticks . Thank you . 7/7/2016 4:54 AM
Answer:

Dear .....,

Thank you for your kindly mail and inquiry.

About the issue you mentioned, because there are too many kinds of memory modules available in the retail market, it is very difficult to test all of the modules with our motherboard products. Thus, we are sorry that we can not guarantee the memory module you mentioned can work properly on this motherboard.

According to our memory support list, sorry, we did not test 8GB memory modules on this model before, due to 8GB modules had not launched at that time.

Here is our memory support list for you to reference.

http://download.gigabyte.asia/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_ga-890fxa-ud5.pdf

And if the memory you want is not included in the memory support list, if possible, we will suggest you to test before purchasing. If that is not possible, please then find a local store you can trust where can provide good after sale service to make sure you can get full support in the future.

F6 bios is latest version for this model. You can try updating to F6 bios if you need.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3417#bios

Thanks for supporting our GIGABYTE products.

Regards,

GIGABYTE

*What a Joke ROFPMSL ! Oh well ....*


----------



## siriq

Some here managed to run the system with 32gb of ram. I won't search it for you this time. I just had a hand surgery.


----------



## Mr Torture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> Some here managed to run the system with 32gb of ram. I won't search it for you this time. I just had a hand surgery.


*Hmm , interesting and a neat trick as it says only 16GB max but you are not suppose to be able to run the CPU's people are too so there ya go I guess . I will have to read some ancient posts I think to catch up properly and see what I come across . Hopefully some evidence unlike the guy who said 32GB but it clearly is only running 16 from what I see .

Hope ya hand heals up nicely*


----------



## siriq

Still running solid with OC on CPU with this mobo. Anyone else?


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> Still running solid with OC on CPU with this mobo. Anyone else?


yeah, OC since 2009


----------



## MishelLngelo

Phenom II X4 965BE at 4.2 GHz still running strong but it's a spare machine not run every day.


----------



## schmidtbag

Yes and no. I'm still running my 6300 at 4.5GHz but there seems to be internal voltage issues, which can cause some instabilities. For example, the USB ports operate at 4.4v. Swapping out the PSU hasn't helped either.

The OC itself is not the cause of this - resetting to defaults doesn't fix this. So, in terms of an OC, it's fully stable.


----------



## siriq

Nice to see still some rigs running with this mobo. One thing i like here, no throttling at all







APM is off of course.

In Battlefield 1 with OCed GTX [email protected] MHz doing excellent fps in 1080p or even in 2K.

It was a good call to only use FX CPU back of last year and not earlier .


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siriq*
> 
> Nice to see still some rigs running with this mobo. One thing i like here, no throttling at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> APM is off of course.
> 
> In Battlefield 1 with OCed GTX [email protected] MHz doing excellent fps in 1080p or even in 2K.
> 
> It was a good call to only use FX CPU back of last year and not earlier .


yeah, but as soon as posible and when new revisions comes out of AM4 mobos and the new AMD cpu, I will upgrade, been waiting long time, and to tell you the truth I didn't "need" to upgrade...


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *christoph*
> 
> yeah, but as soon as posible and when new revisions comes out of AM4 mobos and the new AMD cpu, I will upgrade, been waiting long time, and to tell you the truth I didn't "need" to upgrade...


Likewise. Aside from my voltage issues, my rig is holding up fine performance wise. The primary reasons I want AM4 are because of better latencies (particularly referring to VR stuff) and energy efficiency.


----------



## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> Likewise. Aside from my voltage issues, my rig is holding up fine performance wise. The primary reasons I want AM4 are because of better latencies (particularly referring to VR stuff) and energy efficiency.


yeah, latencies is really important here, I don't care about energy efficiency that much, but I will be looking in a better Hard drives handling hopefully...


----------



## mohiuddin

guys, 890FXA-UD5 rev 2.1 with f7e bios with FX8120 here . it gets throttled down if i overclock beyond 3.4ghz . i heard some power limiting issue causing this. temp is ok all-along. i have to now use AMD overdrive everytime after starting up the OS to get rid of that issue. please help.


----------



## schmidtbag

Haha well, my PC can heat up a roughly 15x15ft room enough that during the dead of winter, my radiator doesn't need to be turned on. Obviously, this is undesirable during the summer, especially when it comes to fan noise. So really, I'm hoping my next rig will offer equal or better performance with a significant drop in wattage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohiuddin*
> 
> guys, 890FXA-UD5 rev 2.1 with f7e bios with FX8120 here . it gets throttled down if i overclock beyond 3.4ghz . i heard some power limiting issue causing this. temp is ok all-along. i have to now use AMD overdrive everytime after starting up the OS to get rid of that issue. please help.


Do you have the C1 (maybe C1E, I forget) enabled in BIOS? That's known to cause OC issues.


----------



## mohiuddin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> Haha well, my PC can heat up a roughly 15x15ft room enough that during the dead of winter, my radiator doesn't need to be turned on. Obviously, this is undesirable during the summer, especially when it comes to fan noise. So really, I'm hoping my next rig will offer equal or better performance with a significant drop in wattage.
> Do you have the C1 (maybe C1E, I forget) enabled in BIOS? That's known to cause OC issues.


nope. disabled.


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohiuddin*
> 
> nope. disabled.


There are a few other possibilities:
1. Do you have the 4+4 CPU power connector?
2. Are you manually setting your multiplier, or are you overclocking via FSB? If the multiplier is set to automatic, the BIOS might intentionally underclock your CPU to compensate for the higher FSB. Generally, you should be able to get a decent OC without touching the FSB.
3. Maybe cool'n'quiet is the issue, but that hasn't posed a problem for me.
4. There's a good chance the Overdrive software in Windows is overriding your overclock. You could try proving this by using a Linux live CD/USB. Go to the terminal and enter "lsusb | grep max". That will tell you if your overclock goes as high as you told it to (in MHz).


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mohiuddin*
> 
> guys, 890FXA-UD5 rev 2.1 with f7e bios with FX8120 here . it gets throttled down if i overclock beyond 3.4ghz . i heard some power limiting issue causing this. temp is ok all-along. i have to now use AMD overdrive everytime after starting up the OS to get rid of that issue. please help.


parked cores?

i never had this problem, try more voltage?

anyway, has anybody used 32gb ram with this board and what is the fastest ram this can use?


----------



## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyrichie*
> 
> anyway, has anybody used 32gb ram with this board and what is the fastest ram this can use?


For the vast majority of the time, motherboards do not limit how much RAM you use. Sometimes the chipset might limit you but that's usually for low-end parts; the 890FX is not a low-end chipset.

I feel pretty confident without having to look up anything that this board will support 32GB and I would be surprised if it couldn't support 64GB. It is your OS that you need to worry about - certain versions of Windows limit how much RAM you have, and in my experience, Windows 7 and newer can act weird about adding RAM after you already installed it. If you're running Linux, you don't have anything to worry about.

As for frequency, I _think_ 1600MHz is the fastest stock speed but can overclock to 2133MHz. Generally speaking you should be prioritizing latency here, not frequency. There is no IGP so RAM frequency isn't all that important. Also don't forget, this is a dual channel board. In case you're not aware, there is such thing as too much RAM. If you push each channel to it's limits, you could actually see worse performance by adding too much. I figure for these boards, the sweet spot is probably around 12 to 16GB. I haven't proved this myself, but in the event you exceed the channel's bandwidth, a lower latency will probably have a greater performance improvement over frequency. It doesn't matter how quickly you can read and write the data if it takes too long to locate it.


----------



## happyrichie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmidtbag*
> 
> For the vast majority of the time, motherboards do not limit how much RAM you use. Sometimes the chipset might limit you but that's usually for low-end parts; the 890FX is not a low-end chipset.
> 
> I feel pretty confident without having to look up anything that this board will support 32GB and I would be surprised if it couldn't support 64GB. It is your OS that you need to worry about - certain versions of Windows limit how much RAM you have, and in my experience, Windows 7 and newer can act weird about adding RAM after you already installed it. If you're running Linux, you don't have anything to worry about.
> 
> As for frequency, I _think_ 1600MHz is the fastest stock speed but can overclock to 2133MHz. Generally speaking you should be prioritizing latency here, not frequency. There is no IGP so RAM frequency isn't all that important. Also don't forget, this is a dual channel board. In case you're not aware, there is such thing as too much RAM. If you push each channel to it's limits, you could actually see worse performance by adding too much. I figure for these boards, the sweet spot is probably around 12 to 16GB. I haven't proved this myself, but in the event you exceed the channel's bandwidth, a lower latency will probably have a greater performance improvement over frequency. It doesn't matter how quickly you can read and write the data if it takes too long to locate it.


yeah, ive spent a while looking up new ddr4 ram and specs but looking at how this cpu performs at 4k gaming i dont think its worth a platform upgrade yet. i can only find ddr4 ram @ 64gb 3200mhz cl15 which is only about a 30% performance increase over mine (1600mhz cl9) and im sure ive seen people on here running 18xxmhz and until ive got like 1080 sli i dont think id need a new cpu at 4k


----------



## schmidtbag

Yeah, if 4k is where you draw the line to make an upgrade then there really is no point in upgrading now, unless you're willing to spend $2000 in GPUs alone, not to mention your electric bill. 2k gaming, however, is definitely achievable on modern hardware, but these outdated AMD platforms might struggle to keep up.

I don't get it though, you seem to be focused primarily on gaming, so why do you want so much RAM? 16GB is more than enough for just about any well-made game out there (except maybe Minecraft). I only have 8GB and it has been holding me over just fine, however, I use my system for strictly gaming and nothing else. I disable a lot of background services, I don't have any antivirus, I don't multitask, etc.


----------



## happyrichie

ive got the upgrade itch, i must scratch









i run lots of background junk and some times 2 games at once while i wait 4 players, i sometimes tap on my ram limit. im thinking

480-8gb + https://www.amazon.co.uk/G-SKILL-F3-2400C11Q-32GXM32-DDR3-RAM-Memory-Module/dp/B00DH9HYF0?SubscriptionId=AKIAI3INFIGIMW2PG6XA&tag=shoprev-uk-21&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00DH9HYF0?ascsubtag=[site|thauk[cat|[art|[pid|B00DH9HYF0[tid|14785454218945128[bbc|LESPRIX

now, then its gpu upgrade and 4k screen later, i think as the graphics fidelity increases, the drain on cpu reduces and with 32gb ram and a oc'ed fx 8core should be a pretty future proof system or at least a good 4k entry machine.

im really happy i waited 2 get fx over my phenom, this "e" chip was well worth the wait and if i get the ram now should stop me buying 1 of the 1st zen chips and im not that impresses with ddr4 ram, still early days


----------



## schmidtbag

If you intend on upgrading things one at a time, I'd suggest getting the 4K display first. Sure, prices could drop, but depending how often your shopping intervals are, waiting could get you a better GPU. We have a long way to go until 4k gaming is reasonably affordable. Besides, you can still play 1k or 2k games on a 4k monitor and upscale them. There are games you can play in 4k on modern hardware, though, maybe not any AAA titles with your particular GPU.

Another thing to consider - you have a 27" monitor. Though that isn't small, it isn't big either. If you intend to replace your display with one of a similar size, you might not notice the PPI difference between 2k and 4k in most cases. Unless you actually saw a 4k display for yourself in person, you could just be buying into a hype.


----------



## happyrichie

i can confirm 8gb ram sticks do not work









i got a hi end 42" 1080p tv like 9 months ago, its great, out of the shop it looked better than most 4k tvs other than the nanos and oled, i want oled but they havent released a tv i like yet, slowish response times, dont think they do a 4k hdr 3d tv yet so im waiting on that, i start 2 scratch now so im ready when i see 1









idk, not long now then untill i drop this thread, 16gb ram is gona be a killer 4 me soon, has been a good ride, got this board 5 1/2 years ago, any board that takes this much abuse and survives is a good board


----------



## siriq

I will give a tour with this board and CPU to XFX AMD RX 480 8 gb Triple X . Let's see how it will generally doing together


----------



## siriq

So what can do an FX [email protected] in blender now days with this motherboard?
There you go:


----------



## 1milekyle

Created a account to say thanks to everyone who shared information and figured out the F7e BIOS firmware. Was able to keep this old system alive by doing a decent update on it and spent under $200 doing so.

My 890FXA-UD5 Revision 2.1 successfully updated to F7e BIOS.

Stable 4.3ghz overclock of a FX-8350. All eight cores working.

Running 2x8gb ram in DDR3_1 and DDR3_3 slots @ 1866 mhz.

I've noticed a decent improvement in all tasks and happy with performance vs. money spent. I don't do much gaming, mainly photo/video editing and the 8 cores, newer processor and additional ram is a welcomed update.


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## MishelLngelo

I know it's somewhat a "necro" thread but does anybody know if eSATA ports are powered (eSATAp) or not ?


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## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> I know it's somewhat a "necro" thread but does anybody know if eSATA ports are powered (eSATAp) or not ?


I'm pretty confident they're not. Also in case you're not aware, the eSATA ports are based on Gigabyte's own SATAII (known as "gSATA") controller. If you want SATA III speeds, you might want to consider getting a eSATAp bracket that connects to one of the SATA III ports instead.


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## christoph

no, I don't think so, but check it out and let us know


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## MishelLngelo

That's what I thought. too bad. going to improvise something for power or get a bracket for eSATAp. 1 plug, 1 cable, 1 power is much handier.
.


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## christoph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> That's what I thought. too bad. going to improvise something for power or get a bracket for eSATAp. 1 plug, 1 cable, 1 power is much handier.
> .


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## kernel G

The two eSata ports on the I/O panel are combo USB/eSata. It has a USB 2.0 port above the eSata port, and they are both colored yellow and sit under the Firewire ports. I'm not familiar with the eSatap, but I think there are adapters to break out eSatap to the separate connectors. I see one at the egg for $2.99.


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## Black Flag

Any beta or unofficial bios for UD5 Ver 2.1? Except F7e.


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## schmidtbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Flag*
> 
> Any beta or unofficial bios for UD5 Ver 2.1? Except F7e.


This board is almost 7 years old. We're lucky _anybody_ was given the F7e BIOS. There is 0 chance there will ever be another update, but, why would you want another? The current F7e is perfectly stable and to my knowledge supports all FX series CPUs.


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## happyrichie

f7e made my bios flicker but it worked nice, i sold it now







some guy using the f7e with my old 955 on windows 10 overclocked 2 4ghz, should hold for a good few years 4 him


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## Smail_k

*Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 rev 2.0*

Подскажите пожалуйста где найти bios F7e на материнку Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 rev 2.0 для поддержки FX процессоров???


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## tesla77

Hello folks..

Does anyone have the *BIOS 89fxau52.f7e* to send me please?

I tried to download from here: http://ggts.gigabyte.eu/FileList/1304500/89fxau52.f7e

but the site is down


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## UnexplodedCow

That's a good question. I *might* have the file sitting around, somewhere. Amazingly, I still have this board, and it still produces random problems. Moral of the story, even with the F7e BIOS is this:

1. DO NOT overclock this motherboard (Rev. 2.0). It just won't hold it. Ever.
2. DO NOT use with a 1090T chip. It is unstable even at stock speeds/voltages, with QVL RAM.
3. The F7e BIOS swap didn't do anything for functionality or stability, though I never rolled it back.
4. Don't bother with the onboard USB3. It always was garbage. Just disable it and get an add-in card.

5. My best opinion: don't use this board. It might work for a week, a month, or a year, but there *will* be a soiled bed, a corrupt BIOS, and just instability the entire time. Oh, it keeps running, and always has, but it's the worst board I've had (and I've used FIC boards). The UD3H was the better, more stable board, that could overclock, and take whatever was thrown at it (I still have one of those running just fine). Never a corrupt BIOS issue, RAM problem, nothing. My previous issues were mentioned in this thread. If you're looking for the F7e BIOS to solve a problem; it won't. The board is flawed, and ultimately the reason why I have not, and will not, buy a Gigabyte product since.

If I can find the BIOS file, I'll upload it here for you, assuming it's possible, and there isn't some rule prohibiting such, as I've not been on these forums in nearly as long.


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## tesla77

UnexplodedCow said:


> That's a good question. I *might* have the file sitting around, somewhere. Amazingly, I still have this board, and it still produces random problems. Moral of the story, even with the F7e BIOS is this:
> 
> 1. DO NOT overclock this motherboard (Rev. 2.0). It just won't hold it. Ever.
> 2. DO NOT use with a 1090T chip. It is unstable even at stock speeds/voltages, with QVL RAM.
> 3. The F7e BIOS swap didn't do anything for functionality or stability, though I never rolled it back.
> 4. Don't bother with the onboard USB3. It always was garbage. Just disable it and get an add-in card.
> 
> 5. My best opinion: don't use this board. It might work for a week, a month, or a year, but there *will* be a soiled bed, a corrupt BIOS, and just instability the entire time. Oh, it keeps running, and always has, but it's the worst board I've had (and I've used FIC boards). The UD3H was the better, more stable board, that could overclock, and take whatever was thrown at it (I still have one of those running just fine). Never a corrupt BIOS issue, RAM problem, nothing. My previous issues were mentioned in this thread. If you're looking for the F7e BIOS to solve a problem; it won't. The board is flawed, and ultimately the reason why I have not, and will not, buy a Gigabyte product since.
> 
> If I can find the BIOS file, I'll upload it here for you, assuming it's possible, and there isn't some rule prohibiting such, as I've not been on these forums in nearly as long.


Thanks man.. I'll waiting for.. I hope you find the miraculous file.


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## tesla77

tesla77 said:


> Hello folks..
> 
> Does anyone have the *BIOS 89fxau52.f7e* to send me please?
> 
> I tried to download from here: http://ggts.gigabyte.eu/FileList/1304500/89fxau52.f7e
> 
> but the site is down



anybody? any news?

:worriedsm


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## podcats

tesla77 said:


> anybody? any news?
> 
> :worriedsm


I scoured this thread today (because I have an old 890FXA-UD5 lying around that I figured I could get more life out of with an upgrade), and managed to find this post from ig0ru4 way back from 2011: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-amd-motherboards/730776-official-gigabyte-ga-890fxa-ud5-ud7-owners-thread-club-390.html#post15711750

For the sake of posterity, I've uploaded the file (89fxau52.f7e) to MEGA, which you can find here (hopefully it won't expire for some time): https://mega.nz/#!3CIUnKiT!VMavHYIh1CM1U80HFrSU92GpkcgETFI6F4N3RuvQZBc

I haven't tried the BIOS yet, since the board isn't with me right now, but I plan on trying it out in a few days. If it fries the board, then oh well; if not, yay for avoiding obsolescence! 

Thanks to ig0ru4 for the original upload, and full credits go to Gigabyte obviously.

Hopefully this saves time for anyone else looking for this in the future! Cheers!


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## tesla77

BACKUP copy:


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## tesla77

podcats said:


> I scoured this thread today (because I have an old 890FXA-UD5 lying around that I figured I could get more life out of with an upgrade), and managed to find this post from ig0ru4 way back from 2011: https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-amd-motherboards/730776-official-gigabyte-ga-890fxa-ud5-ud7-owners-thread-club-390.html#post15711750
> 
> For the sake of posterity, I've uploaded the file (89fxau52.f7e) to MEGA, which you can find here (hopefully it won't expire for some time): https://mega.nz/#!3CIUnKiT!VMavHYIh1CM1U80HFrSU92GpkcgETFI6F4N3RuvQZBc
> 
> I haven't tried the BIOS yet, since the board isn't with me right now, but I plan on trying it out in a few days. If it fries the board, then oh well; if not, yay for avoiding obsolescence!
> 
> Thanks to ig0ru4 for the original upload, and full credits go to Gigabyte obviously.
> 
> Hopefully this saves time for anyone else looking for this in the future! Cheers!


Appreciate your help! :thumb:

Thanks a lot!


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## devilmaycry2020

Hi everyone

Can i use 2 sticks 8G DDR3 1600mhz to run dual channel in Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5 rev3.1 and upgrade CPU to FX-63xx or FX-83xx ? 
And what is the maximum memory and highest frequency i can install on this mobo ?
thank you very much


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## Antikapitalista

*GA-890FXA-UD5 v3.1*

Yes, you can. They should work at 1600 MHz.
You can install as much as 32 GiB of memory and it will work at 1333 MHz:
https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/cpu-ddr3
Do not blindly trust rumours which claim that you should be able to overclock the memory, always test your setup using the Stressful Application Test:
https://github.com/stressapptest/stressapptest
You can download it and build it on probably any recent Linux distribution, many binary ones offer pre-built packages of the Stressful Application Test and there are even some live distributions that feature it.

I use 32 GiB of some low-profile Netlist-branded PC3-12800E memory with Hynix chips (I think that it is this one: NVD1G7235107H-D12THM), 4 sticks of 8 GiB each, with a fairly recent AMD FX-8370. Even though the BIOS automatically set the frequency to 1600 MHz, I found it necessary to lower it to 1333 MHz manually (by setting the multiplier to 6.66x, down from 8x), otherwise the Stressful Application Test would lock up my computer after a few minutes, at the power surge test, if I remember it correctly.
Thus, although it is a fairly recent CPU—one that was bundled with a Wraith cooler—it still does not support memory speeds beyond the original specification.

Besides, this motherboard tends to overvolt the CPU, or at least mine does (using BIOS version FEf). Try lowering the CPU core voltage to the base frequency VID, 1.325 V, while you are at it, and test it. The motherboard board sets it needlessly high.


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## devilmaycry2020

Antikapitalista said:


> Yes, you can. They should work at 1600 MHz.
> You can install as much as 32 GiB of memory and it will work at 1333 MHz:
> https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/cpu-ddr3
> Do not blindly trust rumours which claim that you should be able to overclock the memory, always test your setup using the Stressful Application Test:
> https://github.com/stressapptest/stressapptest
> You can download it and build it on probably any recent Linux distribution, many binary ones offer pre-built packages of the Stressful Application Test and there are even some live distributions that feature it.
> 
> I use 32 GiB of some low-profile Netlist-branded PC3-12800E memory with Hynix chips (I think that it is this one: NVD1G7235107H-D12THM), 4 sticks of 8 GiB each, with a fairly recent AMD FX-8370. Event though the BIOS automatically set the frequency to 1600 MHz, I found it necessary to lower it to 1333 MHz manually (by setting the multiplier to 6.66x, down from 8x), otherwise the Stressful Application Test would lock up my computer after a few minutes.
> Thus, although it is a fairly recent CPUâ€”one that was bundled with a Wraith coolerâ€”it still does not support memory speeds beyond the original specification.
> 
> Besides, this motherboard tends to overvolt the CPU, or at least mine does (using BIOS version FEf). Try lowering the CPU core voltage to the base frequency VID, 1.325 V, while you are at it, and test it. The motherboard board sets it needlessly high.


I've found this https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-...-thread-club-401.html#/topics/730776?page=401


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## devilmaycry2020

Hi everyone

Here is my pc specification i want to overlock it a bit but dont know how to adjust it correctly. someone can help. Thanks a lot


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## Antikapitalista

*AMD FX Processors Unleashed | a Guide to Performance Tuning with AMD OverDrive and the new AMD FX Processors*

Since you already have Windows installed, I suggest that you start with reading the official guide to performance tuning from AMD:
https://web.archive.org/web/2018012...Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf
Then you could search the Internet for other guides.


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