# CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED Monitor Club



## SimpleTech

==========================
Submit Form
==========================

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AuRw7EmnGpxJdG1zeXozZG5tYm96ZUZjVW1xa05kcHc&output=html&widget=true


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## SimpleTech

.


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## Rizyn

Thanks for starting it up guys. a poll like the one mentioned from the other thread would be great.


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## Geglamash

If you have any questions about the CrossOver, or know which questions are likely to come up often, PM them to me so I can get them answered for the FAQ.

I plan on answering concerns about overclocking, the power brick, and build quality.
Anything else, please PM me!


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## araman

Getting the folks who are working on the Catleap overclocking and PCB comparisons in here to see what we have from the other thread and how it compares to what they've found so far might be good for discussion to get this thread moving.

Also, wow... dcsamsumgmall's prices on CrossOvers just shot WAY up, $479.50 for the LED-P and $461.40 for the fixed stand.


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## L D4WG

Keen to see the updated ebay seller listings here, has anyone seen the Crossover model with multiple inputs?


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## Rizyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> Keen to see the updated ebay seller listings here, has anyone seen the Crossover model with multiple inputs?


Dream-seller has the multiple inputs up, but the price is $659. he also has a 30" model now as well.


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## EvilGnomes

I think you missed a word. Its $415 on ebay right now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-/320865620246?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab514d116

What seller, dcsamsung or dream-seller?


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## jagz

Kinda a tough poll, I voted perfect. I do have 1 white pixel, you have to really really look hard to find it. It won't bother me at all, and im OCD about that type of stuff.

Let's get a link for our sigs for this club! Also, look fowards to the info and pictures on the OP.


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## MrSpoon

Feel free to add any of the pictures I've taken - internal and external - to the original posts, if it will help with getting more information.


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## BBGunWB

Don't own, but thinking about getting one to supplement my Catleap. Maybe link the pics/post of the broken/then not broken "not quite vertical" pivot fix.

BB


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## jagz

Some things you might want to consider adding to the OP:

adeptus's informatoin on the power brick from the seller

akg102's info on the power brick aswell

MrSpoon's pictures of the internals

Your pictures!

Geglamash's setup

Geglamash's pictures

& let me reiterate what I said about the poll.. It's too tough, I think people are putting monitors they absolutely love in the "bad pixels" category because they have 1 stuck or dead pixel that they have to strain to even find and it doesn't bother them at all. Like me.


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## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> & let me reiterate what I said about the poll.. It's too tough, I think people are putting monitors they absolutely love in the "bad pixels" category because they have 1 stuck or dead pixel that they have to strain to even find and it doesn't bother them at all. Like me.


But they should still be put in the bad pixel category, even if it's just one. Or make another choice for "1 bad pixel". They still aren't "perfect" monitors.


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## richierich1212

Just ordered a crossover LED-P from dream seller. Can't wait to get it.


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## Piezo

I'm thinking about purchasing one of these monitors but I have a few questions, maybe some of you can help me out









1. The 27Q model here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320865513557 is the stand just like in Jagz's picture (black with white trim) or is it completely white?

2. Can these ones still overclock the refresh rate?

I thought about getting the one with pivot but the fixed stand version looks nicer to me and I never really use tilt/pivot on my current monitor anyway.

Thanks.


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## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piezo*
> 
> I'm thinking about purchasing one of these monitors but I have a few questions, maybe some of you can help me out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. The 27Q model here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320865513557 is the stand just like in Jagz's picture (black with white trim) or is it completely white?
> 2. Can these ones still overclock the refresh rate?
> I thought about getting the one with pivot but the fixed stand version looks nicer to me and I never really use tilt/pivot on my current monitor anyway.
> Thanks.


1. That stand is black with a white trim.
2. I don't think we have enough people with CrossOvers to have a definitive answer, however it's highly unlikely these can go above 60-65Hz.

The LED-P stand is very sturdy, most similar to a dell. I needed height adjustment, but if you know you don't, say a couple bucks and get the more basic stand.


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## Piezo

These monitors are great value nonetheless even if I can't overclock them but I thought I'd ask the question anyway. That's good to hear about the stand, I actually have a Dell monitor myself (U2311H) so I definitely know what you mean in terms of the quality level. I'm just finding that I never use it... so yea like you say, might as well save a few bucks in my case.

Thanks for the quick reply and answers.


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## Horo

So about the power brick, did anyone buy a replacement brick for USA standards? If so which one link please. Mines seems to be running fine using the 230v brick that came with it but i would rather be safe.


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## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horo*
> 
> So about the power brick, did anyone buy a replacement brick for USA standards? If so which one link please. Mines seems to be running fine using the 230v brick that came with it but i would rather be safe.


Yep, I bought a replacement brick.
This is the one I bought, as its been verified to work by other members with similar monitors.


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## giecsar

Ordered my Crossover LED-P from dream-seller, but he forced me to pay a 35$ shipping fee because EMS won't ship to Italy... still a damn good deal though, cheapest 27" 2560x1440 monitor starts at 600€ here.. hopefully it will arrive soon and unscathed


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## jrcbandit

I would love this monitor and not be upset about a single stuck pixel.... However, the stuck pixel is bright green near the center of the damn monitor. I hope it gets unstuck so I can enjoy the monitor. Love the resolution and the IPS clarity. Any recommendations for color calibration?


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## Piezo

If it's in the center that's deemed as faulty by dream_seller so you do have the option to return it, provided you want to take the risk again.

Oh I see you said stuck, my mistake. I thought I saw dead pixel.


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## crowat

If you have a stuck pixel try to gently massage the screen. I had a similar issue with my Ben Q (stuck red pixel) and it was fixed by massaging the area about an inch and a half around the stuck pixel. Just a thought.

From my experience there is no help for dead pixels. Hope this helps.


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## Horo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Yep, I bought a replacement brick.
> This is the one I bought, as its been verified to work by other members with similar monitors.


Thanks I'll give it a try


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## kazenagi

My monitors were shipped from Korea on the 21st over there, they arrived in Canada on March 22nd at 10:22.. that is ridiculously fast, redcap was way faster than dream-seller. Now my monitors are only a couple hours away from me. Should be delivered tomorrow


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## Piezo

Wow that's quick! Post back once you get it


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## araman

I don't think dcsamsungmall is providing appropriate adapters for free anymore, just FYI. Here's a response I got from him when I asked (politely).

_HI,

Please buy adaptor from your side. You can buy on eBay about with $24 something.

This is product for Korean domestic. And We are selling this to worldwide.

We are selling the monitor as manufacture provide.

If you have any question feel free contact me

Thank you._


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## Audio33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> I don't think dcsamsungmall is providing appropriate adapters for free anymore, just FYI. Here's a response I got from him when I asked (politely).
> _HI,
> 
> Please buy adaptor from your side. You can buy on eBay about with $24 something.
> 
> This is product for Korean domestic. And We are selling this to worldwide.
> 
> We are selling the monitor as manufacture provide.
> 
> If you have any question feel free contact me
> 
> Thank you._


I got a similar response from dcsamsungmall.


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## ablearcher77

I know it is probably anathema to ask this here, but I was wondring what happens if you try to hook up a ps3 to the crossover? Or try to display 1080p content from a ps3? Possible?


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## araman

Apparently there's a tempered glass version of the non-P version out there now...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-2560X1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/150784028067?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231b6dada3#ht_14636wt_1163


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## jetpak12

I've been following this "Korean monitor craze" for almost three weeks now, and I've got to say I like the look and capabilities of the Catleap CrossOver LED-P the best out of all the ones described here on OCN.

I've pretty much convinced myself that I want to "trade-in" my 3x 1080p Eyefinity setup for one of these 27" monitors; however, I'm concerned about the glossy screen. Initially I thought I would like it, considering all the praise I hear about it, but I realized that the only light in the room my computer is in is a lamp that is right behind the monitor. Do you guys think this would drive me crazy from reflections on the screen? Could someone who has one of these already take a picture of one with the screen on and a lamp directly in the background so I could get an idea?

As strange as it sounds, I'm contemplating this, or the HP ZR2740w, as it has an anti-gloss coating. Thanks.









EDIT: I meant CrossOver, not Catleap.


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## drka0tic

dcsamsungmall's price is approx. $60-70 higher than the other sellers. His auction listing still states that he is proving a 220V adapter








Anyone know the reason for the price hike?


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## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> dcsamsungmall's price is approx. $60-70 higher than the other sellers. His auction listing still states that he is proving a 220V adapter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know the reason for the price hike?


The only thing I can think of is that he got such high praise lately that he took that to mean that he could charge more and people would pay it for superior service. That, or his supply of Crossovers ran out and they are more expensive there now. The other sellers might still have backstock at an older price point.

I did also hear something recently about new versions too.... the 2701 and 2701-P I believe. Maybe his new stock are those versions and they are more expensive in Korea?


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## Taget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horo*
> 
> Thanks I'll give it a try


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> My monitors were shipped from Korea on the 21st over there, they arrived in Canada on March 22nd at 10:22.. that is ridiculously fast, redcap was way faster than dream-seller. Now my monitors are only a couple hours away from me. Should be delivered tomorrow


Once it gets going it gets going.

Some information on my experience with the tracking if it helps. For me the pop up link on ebay gave me nothing. But obviously was able to get the information elsewhere.

Before the monitor arrived in the United States I used this site.

http://www.track-trace.com/post

Once it arrived in the United States (at JFK airport) there were no more updates and I used the US postal service website which accepted the tracking number.

https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction!input.action

So far my package went from Yeouido South Korea on the 21st (ordered on the 16th) arrving in Incheon South Korea at 7:49am on the 22nd. It left Incheon on a flight to JFK (flight KE081 which I was able to track separately) at 10:28 am which arrived in the United States roughly half an hour later just before 11am. Of course only technically half an hour. Gotta love that international dateline.









I assume it went through customs last night and entered the USPS sort facility at the airport and was processed at the Staten Island sort facilty at 3:45am this morning. And is listed now as "Depart USPS Sort Facility."


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## jrcbandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crowat*
> 
> If you have a stuck pixel try to gently massage the screen. I had a similar issue with my Ben Q (stuck red pixel) and it was fixed by massaging the area about an inch and a half around the stuck pixel. Just a thought.
> From my experience there is no help for dead pixels. Hope this helps.


Good advice. My stuck pixel isn't gone yet, but it seems noticeably dimmer, which I don't quite understand. I thought it would be an all or nothing type of situation.

I did the massage, plus ran a program that is supposed to fix stuck pixels (JscreenFix). I hope to make it entirely disappear today so I can enjoy playing some games. I tried playing Mass Effect 3 and the stuck pixel was right over Shepard ;p.


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## Jarobata

I'm really interested in the Crossover 27Q LED-P but I'm scared about the eBay/Korea thing and whether or not my setup could even handle the resolution. i wish someone could just make the decision for me....


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## Djankie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I'm really interested in the Crossover 27Q LED-P but I'm scared about the eBay/Korea thing and whether or not my setup could even handle the resolution. i wish someone could just make the decision for me....


 I once had "1" gtx 570 running for 2x 1440P monitor, so your setup won't be a problem.


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## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> I once had "1" gtx 570 running for 2x 1440P monitor, so your setup won't be a problem.


Even for BF3 on Ultra? I kinda assumed I'd have to drop to high.

EDIT: On that note, can anyone confirm this works well with FPS? I've heard various remarks regarding IPS panels and FPS


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## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I'm really interested in the Crossover 27Q LED-P but I'm scared about the eBay/Korea thing and whether or not my setup could even handle the resolution. i wish someone could just make the decision for me....


Why don't you just send me the money you want to spend on it, and I'll... take care of it... for you


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## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Why don't you just send me the money you want to spend on it, and I'll... take care of it... for you


Lol. I'm currently trying to convince my buddy to take the plunge too so I feel better about it, I want it so bad.....


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## Jarobata

Does the LED-P just have a nicer stand? If I'm going to mount this thing should I just get the standard LED? Then I could get tempered glass for example?


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## J Macker

yes, just order the cheaper shimian or catleap if you don't need the stand.

I'm still waiting for my Crossover from dream-seller.
It's been so painful waiting, and waiting.. and hopefully I can get it tomorrow.

Please, please, order your LCDs from one of the other sellers who actually ships on time with fast shipping.

Dream-seller marked my order as shipped 2 days after ordering, but didn't give a tracking number. I sent an ebay message requesting a tracking number. No reply for 2 days. I sent another message asking for tracking number or cancel the order.
Dream-seller responds the next day. It's 6 days from order date (including weekend). Says the order was transmitted to manufacturer, but got lost.

I do not think sellers should mark an item as "shipped" unless they give a tracking number. If they don't have a tracking number, it didn't ship!

So, 9 days after placing order, and hopefully USPS will deliver tomorrow. Lame EMS/USPS. They taking 4 days to ship it. I should have ordered from dcsamsungmall for the Fedex express 2-day. I would have had the LCD 5 days ago.

/end ***** & moan


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## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J Macker*
> 
> yes, just order the cheaper shimian or catleap if you don't need the stand.
> I'm still waiting for my Crossover from dream-seller.
> It's been so painful waiting, and waiting.. and hopefully I can get it tomorrow.
> Please, please, order your LCDs from one of the other sellers who actually ships on time with fast shipping.
> Dream-seller marked my order as shipped 2 days after ordering, but didn't give a tracking number. I sent an ebay message requesting a tracking number. No reply for 2 days. I sent another message asking for tracking number or cancel the order.
> Dream-seller responds the next day. It's 6 days from order date (including weekend). Says the order was transmitted to manufacturer, but got lost.
> I do not think sellers should mark an item as "shipped" unless they give a tracking number. If they don't have a tracking number, it didn't ship!
> So, 9 days after placing order, and hopefully USPS will deliver tomorrow. Lame EMS/USPS. They taking 4 days to ship it. I should have ordered from dcsamsungmall for the Fedex express 2-day. I would have had the LCD 5 days ago.
> /end ***** & moan


Wait seriously? People are spending 50-100 more just for a better stand? I'm lost now.

Can someone explain why I would go for a Crossover LED or LED-P over the cheaper Catleap? Also, why I would or wouldn't want glass?

Really appreciate it.


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## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Wait seriously? People are spending 50-100 more just for a better stand? I'm lost now.


If one wants a stand that has height adjustments and can pivot, then aftermarket stands cost around $45+, at the same time there arent many to choose from.


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## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Wait seriously? People are spending 50-100 more just for a better stand? I'm lost now.


Better stand, different aesthetics mostly. Stand is much more adjustable, buttons are hidden on the back. There's not as much writing on the bezel as there is on the Catleap. Casing is mostly aluminum instead of all plastic like on the Shimian and Catleap.

I paid more because I just liked the overall look and build of the Crossover better, and the stand for portrait was appealing to me. I don't have a wall backing up against my desk, so a wall mounted arm didn't make much sense for me and this way I don't have to play around with changing out the stand because the one on the LED-P is pretty well made and sturdy.


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## J Macker

Not sure where you get the $100 price, but the standard Crossover (non-pivot) supposedly has a much better stand than the Catleap stand that "leans".
The prices for a standard Crossover were about $400-$410 for the first two weeks (including last). I'm at work right now so I'm not sure what the going rate is now.

Also, when I checked the Achieva & Shimean models were about $380. So, that's a $20 difference, not $50-$100. That's the same price as if just ordering a stand from monoprice, so I'm not sure why you're shocked that people are buying Crossovers for the better stand.


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## drka0tic

No. The Crossover's enclosure has better build quality. It's made of metal.
There are two main models, the 27Q LED & 27Q LED-P. The -P means it includes an height-adjustable & pivoting stand. The sellers charge about $20 for the -P model.


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## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Even for BF3 on Ultra? I kinda assumed I'd have to drop to high.
> EDIT: On that note, can anyone confirm this works well with FPS? I've heard various remarks regarding IPS panels and FPS


I jumped in BF3, and it was choppy. I bought a 2nd Lightning Extreme, but then OCN iCrap tells me to turn of AA (you don't need it at this res) and... low and behold, it's perfect. Just as it was on my 1080p TN panel. Turns out I didn't need the 2nd 580 afterall.

My vram usage is around 2GB on some maps though, but thats not much higher than it was previously.


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## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I jumped in BF3, and it was choppy. I bought a 2nd Lightning Extreme, but then OCN iCrap tells me to turn of AA (you don't need it at this res) and... low and behold, it's perfect. Just as it was on my 1080p TN panel. Turns out I didn't need the 2nd 580 afterall.
> My vram usage is around 2GB on some maps though, but thats not much higher than it was previously.


No issues with response time?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J Macker*
> 
> Not sure where you get the $100 price, but the standard Crossover (non-pivot) supposedly has a much better stand than the Catleap stand that "leans".
> The prices for a standard Crossover were about $400-$410 for the first two weeks (including last). I'm at work right now so I'm not sure what the going rate is now.
> Also, when I checked the Achieva & Shimean models were about $380. So, that's a $20 difference, not $50-$100. That's the same price as if just ordering a stand from monoprice, so I'm not sure why you're shocked that people are buying Crossovers for the better stand.


It was low to high, some crossover led-p's are going for 470ish

What are people's thoughts on tempered glass vs non-tempered? Or is it all tempered and one guy decided to focus on it in his listing?


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## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> No issues with response time?


I haven't noticed any delay, and I'm a good player. I'd notice if it was effecting my killing!

Alright guys, This 220v-110v power brick is proven to work, but couldn't I spend less and buy this step up/step down converter and have the same effect?


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## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I haven't noticed any delay, and I'm a good player. I'd notice if it was effecting my killing!
> Alright guys, This 220v-110v power brick is proven to work, but couldn't I spend less and buy this step up/step down converter and have the same effect?


You just bought a beautiful, expensive monitor and now you're attaching it to something heinous to save a few dollars?


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## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> You just bought a beautiful, expensive monitor and now you're attaching it to something heinous to save a few dollars?


What do you mean? I'd rather be safe than sorry and have the proper power brick or conversion. Read the OP about power brick inconsistancy.


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## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> What do you mean? I'd rather be safe than sorry and have the proper power brick or conversion. Read the OP about power brick inconsistancy.


I'm definitely getting a new brick, I was saying I rather have a new brick than use the supplied brick with that converter from Amazon.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> What do you mean? I'd rather be safe than sorry and have the proper power brick or conversion. Read the OP about power brick inconsistancy.


He means why bother saving a few bucks on a step-down converter when you know the adjusted power brick meets the proper needs?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> He means why bother saving a few bucks on a step-down converter when you know the adjusted power brick meets the proper needs?


Yeah I see now, I figured it would do the same thing.. but it's true, the proper power brick.. is the proper power brick.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Yeah I see now, I figured it would do the same thing.. but it's true, the proper power brick.. is the proper power brick.


I was just teasing, specifically because the prices are so close. Might be easier to resell with the right brick later on?


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## Spongeworthy

Taking from what Scribby said in the Catleap club thread, it's not possible to do a PCB swap for the crossover?


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## Geglamash

Alright guys, got my new power brick, less than 24 hours after I ordered.








It's this brick. It came with 3 prongs, and works perfectly. I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the bring the first time I powered it on. That went away after a few minutes.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Taking from what Scribby said in the Catleap club thread, it's not possible to do a PCB swap for the crossover?


Anything is possible. What I said is the Crossover uses the same PANEL and therefore might be able to swap the PCBs I am sourcing for the Catleap. Someone would have to take the plunge to make it work, but it appears it could work, you would just need to swap it ALL out to the parts we will be getting and give it a shot (heck non-OC Catleaps will be swapping all the guts as well, we just have 2 PCBs and 2 cables to drop in).

As far as a direct drop in replacement to what is currently there - no that is not possible as the DVI PCB uses what appears to be a different controller altogether (not to mention the Panel PCB is a completely different as well.) There are design differences like what I think is the front panel power, brightness running on a separate board - but that is hard to tell from the pics I have seen. However, THAT cable looks like it is the same connector for the PCBs in the Catleap.

I don't know! Again, once we start getting some PCBs if there is an adventurous soul that wants to mod his Crossover to try and run 120hz let me know.


----------



## dante020

I received all 3 of my Crossover 27Q monitors, here's my setup:




I ordered one from Dream-Seller and two from Red-Cap. The one from Dream-Seller came with this PSU:



The ones from Red-Cap came with this one:



They both seem to work fine but the first one seems to run a little hot. I'll probably replace them anyways just to be safe.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante020*
> 
> I received all 3 of my Crossover 27Q monitors, here's my setup:
> 
> 
> I ordered one from Dream-Seller and two from Red-Cap. The one from Dream-Seller came with this PSU:
> 
> The ones from Red-Cap came with this one:
> 
> They both seem to work fine but the first one seems to run a little hot. I'll probably replace them anyways just to be safe.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Alright guys, got my new power brick, less than 24 hours after I ordered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's this brick. It came with 3 prongs, and works perfectly. I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the bring the first time I powered it on. That went away after a few minutes.


Can you take pics of the 2 bricks side by side (the one that came with the monitor, and the one you just got in) just for record keeping purposes?


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## Geglamash

That's a whole lot of pixels!


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## my94r/t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*


^^^This


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## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Can you take pics of the 2 bricks side by side (the one that came with the monitor, and the one you just got in) just for record keeping purposes?


Original (Ran a bit toasty) :


New brick:


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## kazenagi

Crossovers came in today, it was mailed in Korea at 10:37pm 21-Mar-2012 korean time and it arrived in Ontario at 2012/03/22 10:19 Eastern standard.. that is hella fast, not even two days







. It took a while for redcap to actually drop my order off, he said there were issues with his shipping company so that probably explains it. Also you can see in the shipping label that it cost 122,500 wons which is $108 usd to ship from Korea to Canada.

Packaging was phenomenal much better than how dreamseller packed my shimian. There was a good 2-3 inches of bubble wrap and you couldn't even see the brown box underneath. Each monitor was marked as a $70 gift so no worries on any border charges. Simpletech already took a lot of detailed pics with a high quality dslr so I won't try with my mere camera phone







My shimians in a box packed safetly away till the gtx 680s with 4gb come out. Until then I'm stuck with only 2 monitors with little to no gaming at all.

The 220v power bricks still work for me as well, no issue with the monitors but the most important thing is after staring at every inch of my screens while cycling through blue, red, white and black full screened backgrounds I found *NO dead pixels, no stuck pixels, no bright pixels absolutely flawless.*. for now. I'm so happy.

tl;dr got a perfect monitor, took less than 2 days to get to me, enough packaging for this to be air dropped.














*The left monitor doesn't rotate to a full 90*, the pivot point seems to be off to the left since my right monitor is at 180* and locked that way when you try to rotate it counter clockwise but my left monitor can slightly rotate to the left before it locks. A small adjustment should fix everything.*





Pretty neat..


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## djriful

Beautiful monitors but I'm stuck with my 27" Apple Cinema Display.


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## drka0tic

Dude. Youre gonna get an LED tan









Amazing setup!


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## coldkick

Hopefully this is the official specs. I already posted this in another thread but it seems fitting to post it here also.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27M-LED-27MLED-Full-HD-2560X1440-All-in-one-Speaker-Backlight-Monitor-/160767539660?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item256e7df9cc

The Crossover 27M LED on sale, looks like it was just added earlier today. Only seller so far. Live up to expectations spec wise? Also look at the price, quite a premium.


----------



## dante020

I haven't looked closely but there are no obvious dead/stuck pixels. I'll do more testing when I can.


----------



## coldkick

Expect input lag from the 27M LED.
Inputs: SVC,, SPDIF, PC Audio IN/OUT, component, HDMI, VGAx2 DL-DVI


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Original (Ran a bit toasty) :
> 
> New brick:


Thanks!


----------



## araman

I noticed after upgrading to this monitor (and also running my old Dell TN panel next to it), that my 6870 is running a little hotter when idling. It was idling at about 36C before, now it idles at 51C. Is this normal?


----------



## MrSpoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I don't know! Again, once we start getting some PCBs if there is an adventurous soul that wants to mod his Crossover to try and run 120hz let me know.


Count me in, I'll take one for the team.


----------



## jetpak12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> I noticed after upgrading to this monitor (and also running my old Dell TN panel next to it), that my 6870 is running a little hotter when idling. It was idling at about 36C before, now it idles at 51C. Is this normal?


Its because your card isn't downclocking as much as it did before with a smaller resolution. I noticed the same thing with my 6970 after attaching two additional monitors for Eyefinity.

EDIT: I should add that you can use MSI Afterburner to override your 2D clocks and lower them to more reasonable levels, which should also decrease the temperatures when you're just on the desktop.


----------



## computerdeth

I think green-sum may be selling the Crossover 27Q LED P.
The picture he provides is a different monitor though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-HD-2560X1440-S-IPS-DVI-QHD-Pivot-Computer-Monitor-/140729321245?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41f071d


----------



## chukdotcom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante020*
> 
> I received all 3 of my Crossover 27Q monitors, here's my setup:
> 
> 
> I ordered one from Dream-Seller and two from Red-Cap. The one from Dream-Seller came with this PSU:
> 
> The ones from Red-Cap came with this one:
> 
> They both seem to work fine but the first one seems to run a little hot. I'll probably replace them anyways just to be safe.


What video card setup are you using to power the 3 crossovers?


----------



## sn0man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *computerdeth*
> 
> I think green-sum may be selling the Crossover 27Q LED P.
> The picture he provides is a different monitor though.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-HD-2560X1440-S-IPS-DVI-QHD-Pivot-Computer-Monitor-/140729321245?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41f071d


It also says 1920x1080 in a few of the pictures, despite having the 2560x1440 specs in another image.

I wish these listings weren't so hastily slapped together, and it wasn't all the same crappy brochure-looking photos in every one.


----------



## otaku30

My crossover Led-P came in today. Purchased from dcsamsungmall shipped out on the 21st - can't complain about the speed of shipment.

I got one of the 110/220 power supplies shipped in the box. I will post a label pic when I get a chance tomorrow.

After I read the warning email he sent I ended up ordering one of the 25 dollars power supplies on eBay - won't hurt to have a spare I suppose.

Even after seeing the monitor pics I am pleasantly surprised at how thin it is.


----------



## araman

Well that f'ing sucks - the powerbrick AC adaptor that's been linked here a few times now and said to work with this monitor just shot up $100 before I had a chance to order one. What fusking racket.

Can anyone find a proper equivalent? I found another one that looked to be identical, but they wanted $124 as well. This has gotta be a joke.


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Well that f'ing sucks - the powerbrick AC adaptor that's been linked here a few times now and said to work with this monitor just shot up $100 before I had a chance to order one. What fusking racket.


LOL, that is a lame move.
We all pointed towards that brick since it worked; it only helped the seller's business.
Greed will cause him to sell none now.


----------



## richierich1212

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Well that f'ing sucks - the powerbrick AC adaptor that's been linked here a few times now and said to work with this monitor just shot up $100 before I had a chance to order one. What fusking racket.


Seller probably sold out but doesnt want to pay reinsertion fee for new listing later.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richierich1212*
> 
> Seller probably sold out but doesnt want to pay reinsertion fee for new listing later.


I thought that too, but this one is also the same price:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/300555688796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fa83db5c#ht_1519wt_905

Collusion


----------



## kazenagi

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-AC-power-adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-NEW-/350277873647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518e302fef

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/350369931415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193ace097

Those are the exact same ones as the ones listed for over $100 right? They're all 24v 5A 120W and the details say it is 4pin as well as the pics but if something does ship that's different from the listing you could always just file a SNAD with ebay.


----------



## Geglamash

I'm not sure if those would work; the polarity of the pins is different.


----------



## kazenagi

Someone could be a guinea pig and try and return it if it doesn't work







ebay can't be the only place to find these powerbricks..


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Someone could be a guinea pig and try and return it if it doesn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ebay can't be the only place to find these powerbricks..


They're all over Amazon as well.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> I thought that too, but this one is also the same price:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/300555688796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fa83db5c#ht_1519wt_905
> Collusion


Wow earlier today it was $26 or whatever... Seller greed indeed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> They're all over Amazon as well.


Link please, I browsed but they seem to be different.


----------



## dante020

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chukdotcom*
> 
> What video card setup are you using to power the 3 crossovers?


Currently I have a HD 6970 powering one and an 8800GT powering the other two. I'm getting another HD 6970 and 2 DP adapters so I can do crossfire.


----------



## bobn4burton

I got my Crossover 27Q LED this week! I couldn't be happier!!! This thing is absolutely AMAZING. I've been waiting three years to upgrade to a monitor of this caliber (could bring myself to pay 1000+). I went with the crossover because I really liked the look of the white metal back.

Let me tell you...this thing hasn't disappointed me at all. I think the aesthetics are TOP notch. I think the white back gives the monitor a kind of edgy/industrial/retro look. I just wish I wasn't wall mounting so that I could see the back more often.

Seriously temped to order another...even though I don't have a place for 2 monitors yet.

Mine came with a single stuck red pixel. It was actually quite prominent at first and I saw it right away. It was so big...it might have even been a couple stuck pixels side by side. Since then I have been trying a few of the massage tricks and I've been running PixelRepairer over it for about two days now and I'm quite pleased that the stuck pixel has almost disappeared! Now...its very hard to see. I'm hopeful that will a little more massage and another day or two of pixelrepairer, it will be 100% gone.

No dead pixels. Backlight bleed is pretty good.

So yes...a VERY happy customer here!


----------



## bobn4burton

Oh...forgot one other thing. I had requested a no dead/stuck pixel check from dream-seller. This was about 12 hours before he started charging for this service.

Needless to say...I still got a stuck pixel. So I really don't think the extra check is worth anything. I definitely wouldn't pay a premium for the service.


----------



## chukdotcom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante020*
> 
> Currently I have a HD 6970 powering one and an 8800GT powering the other two. I'm getting another HD 6970 and 2 DP adapters so I can do crossfire.


Why would you need 2 DP adapters? Couldn't you use 1 DVI on each 6970, and then only have to buy 1 DP adapter so it's cheaper?


----------



## araman

Yeah, a link to any of the ones on amazon would be great. I have Prime, so this could be a better option than the ebay deals.

I'm a complete newb when it comes to anything electrical, so any help any of you can offer would be great.
Thanks!


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Wow earlier today it was $26 or whatever... Seller greed indeed.
> Link please, I browsed but they seem to be different.


Here, although I'm not sure if the polarity of the pins is correct. Heck, I don''t know if the pin polarity matters at all.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Here, although I'm not sure if the polarity of the pins is correct. Heck, I don''t know if the pin polarity matters at all.


I don't think it will work. The DC output is 20v / 4.5A. The specs on all of our foreign bricks are 24v / 5A.


----------



## teesee150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Here, although I'm not sure if the polarity of the pins is correct. Heck, I don''t know if the pin polarity matters at all.


That's only 20v output, not 24v


----------



## Geglamash

Whoops, didn't look closely enough.


----------



## chukdotcom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chukdotcom*
> 
> Why would you need 2 DP adapters? Couldn't you use 1 DVI on each 6970, and then only have to buy 1 DP adapter so it's cheaper?


Sorry, didn't realize that you had to have one card drive all 3 monitors in Crossfire.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Here, although I'm not sure if the polarity of the pins is correct. Heck, I don''t know if the pin polarity matters at all.


I think since the plug is circular shaped, it should be able to go in any direction and stay put. Can anyone confirm?
If it does, then the polarity shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## akg102

UPDATE: The power brick dcSamsungMall sent me worked perfectly.

One thing of note. If any of you are trying to power up without the monitor connected to your GPU, there is a chance that you'll get the red light, regardless of the power adapter.


----------



## EvilGnomes

cool.

would this power brick work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350

the one listed jumped from an affordable $23.99 to an outrageous $123.99..I think somebody fat fingered it.


----------



## akg102

I wouldn't be the one to ask, but pin polarity might be off on that adapter.


----------



## EvilGnomes

alright. no way im going to pay $123.99 for a adapter. I will just get the transformer then lol.


----------



## araman

I would suggest contacting the seller and let them know you want to buy one but that no one, not a single person, will buy an AC adapter at that price.


----------



## akg102

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> I would suggest contacting the seller and let them know you want to buy one but that no one, not a single person, will buy an AC adapter at that price.


I'm guessing it's a typo......it was going for 23.99


----------



## EvilGnomes

already contacted them about the ridiculousness of the price. If i had the extra cash i'd just bulk order 50 of them from alibaba and sell em for 15 bucks, but at $9/unit cant really do that, they want 50 units per order too..so that rounds out to be about 475 with shipping.

yeah, i bet the guy fat fingered a 1...


----------



## Taget

Got the monitor from Red Cap. Ordered at 11pm on Thursday the 15th (around noon on the 16th Korean time). He didn't ship it till around Wednesday his time. And then the thing just zoomed around the globe and arrived today on Friday on the 23rd. The monitor was literally buried in bubble wrap. Reading this thread and having a little extra time I bought a cable from monoprice and this infamous power brick ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/280673899776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 ) which I bought back when it was affordable.

Besides the colors being a little off tint (going to have to calibrate it) this thing looks perfect. Until I put on an absolutely black screen I didn't see the two stuck green pixels in the center of the monitor. I actually thought it was one but when I looked at the monitor with my nose practically up against the monitor I saw it was actually two itsy bitsty pixels that were in the same neighborhood. Any advice on how to get rid of them would be appreciated. Actually what scared me the most was the reports some people had (albeit with catleaps who were being overclocked) was that there might be a buzzing sound. But this monitor is dead silent.

This is also my first lcd monitor since I was a crt snob. Had the same 19 inch trinitron crt for ten years. Gotta give Mitsubishi credit for making something that rock solid. Every time I did research there was always something wrong that made it prudent to wait. And this is what I waited for.

Physically this monitor seems light but well made. None of the flimsiness reported in it's rivals.

Need to find out how to do the little things. IE getting old full screen games I like to play at their proper aspect ratio.


----------



## EvilGnomes

glad you like it, i personally cant wait to order mine friday

edit: im pretty po'ed that the guy either fat fingered the price or intentionally did it. my guess is he fat fingered it on accident but he isnt getting any more sales till he corrects the mistake.


----------



## Druidje

So.. has anyone succeeded OCing a crossover (any)?

I can't be bothered reading through another 100 pages of the now 300+ page long thread, since I stopped at 200..


----------



## haccess

I got my refund from the one ebay seller who sent me the wrong brick so I could place an order from the "other" seller but *wham*, price hike.

He might be running low on stock having just sold like 30+ over the past 3 days, or just trying to figure out why they're selling like hotcakes. Whatever the case, if the price doesn't go back to $24 the stock brick isn't causing problems for most and those that have issues can just spend $20 on a step-up transformer. There's no reason to spend more than $30 on a power adapter and certainly no reason to spend $123


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haccess*
> 
> I got my refund from the one ebay seller who sent me the wrong brick so I could place an order from the "other" seller but *wham*, price hike.
> He might be running low on stock having just sold like 30+ over the past 3 days, or just trying to figure out why they're selling like hotcakes. Whatever the case, if the price doesn't go back to $24 the stock brick isn't causing problems for most and those that have issues can just spend $20 on a step-up transformer. There's no reason to spend more than $30 on a power adapter and certainly no reason to spend $123


Yeah I'm in no rush. Some reported their brick that came with the monitor running hot, not mine, cool to the touch so I'm pretty certain I'll be fine if I stick with this. I would like to order the replacement if only just for a backup if I need one.

FYI, my replacement DVI DL cable came from Monoprice the other day and hooked it up last night. It's quite a bit more substantial than the stock one and I could *swear* my picture quality is slightly better. Also, I know this sounds silly and is probably a coincidence, but after changing cables, a dead pixel I discovered a bit later is now working









This is the cable I got, btw:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2

This monitor has been a joy to work and play with for the 3 days I've had it now. The only complaint is that I wish I had a way to color calibrate it well enough. There's gotta be profiles out there people have done to get it look a bit better.


----------



## EvilGnomes

yeah, I agree ill just stick with the stock brick when i get it. thanks for the link to the dual dvi cable, ill grab that and a regular 3 prong cable.

edit:

this would be the correct power cable right?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5285&seq=1&format=1#largeimage


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilGnomes*
> 
> yeah, I agree ill just stick with the stock brick when i get it. thanks for the link to the dual dvi cable, ill grab that and a regular 3 prong cable.
> edit:
> this would be the correct power cable right?
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5285&seq=1&format=1#largeimage


Yeah that should work. Though I doubt you'll need 16AWG for such a low powered device. Amazon has a 6-ft (18AWG I presume) for $3.12. If you have an electronics store near by you might be able to pick one up for a similar price.


----------



## Tabrin

Figured I'd register and post a response, since I bought one of these puppies because of this thread.

Ordered from dcsamsungmall, despite FedEX tracking indicating 8 day shipping it went from Korea to Hawaii in 2 which is insane.

Exterior bubblewrap was two-ply of the thin stuff, but the monitor came well packaged so it didn't really matter. Absolutely no stuck or dead pixels, no cosmetic damage. Rotates fully to vertical Power brick is a Fuyuan Electronics 100-240V 60Hz input adapater, works fine after I switched the input cable to 3 prong.

Included dual-link DVI cable.

Monitor doesn't support 60Hz at any resolution but that's a non-issue for me.

Somebody asked earlier (or maybe it was a different thread, iunno) if you could hook up a PS3 to it. I have a DVI-HDMI adapter and I can verify that BF3 will run fine (note that's at 720.) For whatever reason my PS3 lately refuses to let me use 1080p/i on any of my displays so I can't vouch for 1080 content. Will try using different cables later and edit the post, maybe I grabbed one of my old crappy HDMI cables.


----------



## crowat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taget*
> 
> Besides the colors being a little off tint (going to have to calibrate it) this thing looks perfect. Until I put on an absolutely black screen I didn't see the two stuck green pixels in the center of the monitor. I actually thought it was one but when I looked at the monitor with my nose practically up against the monitor I saw it was actually two itsy bitsty pixels that were in the same neighborhood. Any advice on how to get rid of them would be appreciated. Actually what scared me the most was the reports some people had (albeit with catleaps who were being overclocked) was that there might be a buzzing sound. But this monitor is dead silent.
> .


This is what worked in the past for me on a couple of different monitors with stuck pixels (one was a red pixel on a BenQ and another was a Green stuck pixel on a 23inch Acer).

Note do this on your own risk. I am not an expert regarding LCDs. You can always cause more dead pixels by trying this. (although it never happened to me)

Take a piece of cloth (I used a eye class cleaning cloth) and gently start massaging the screen. I would start by gently doing circles around the stuck pixels with a single finger and gradually move further out form the dead pixel. In each case for me pressure on a random screen area away from the stuck pixel caused the issue to correct itself. (one case was about 1.5 inches NW from the stuck pixel and in the other was about an inch away below).

From my experience the flashing screen programs didn't work (but it never hurts to try). Also, this doesn't work with dead (black pixels).

Good Luck!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haccess*
> 
> I got my refund from the one ebay seller who sent me the wrong brick so I could place an order from the "other" seller but *wham*, price hike.
> He might be running low on stock having just sold like 30+ over the past 3 days, or just trying to figure out why they're selling like hotcakes. Whatever the case, if the price doesn't go back to $24 the stock brick isn't causing problems for most and those that have issues can just spend $20 on a step-up transformer. There's no reason to spend more than $30 on a power adapter and certainly no reason to spend $123


So should I go fourth with a step up/step down transformer? Since the known working power brick is $123 now? Or should I wait out a brick, seeing the brick is _still_ 220v regardless?

Note, my supplied brick and DVI cable are working admirably. but like all of you, I'd feel better with the proper power brick or conversion.


----------



## Mike43110

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabrin*
> 
> Figured I'd register and post a response, since I bought one of these puppies because of this thread.
> Ordered from dcsamsungmall, despite FedEX tracking indicating 8 day shipping it went from Korea to Hawaii in 2 which is insane.
> Exterior bubblewrap was two-ply of the thin stuff, but the monitor came well packaged so it didn't really matter. Absolutely no stuck or dead pixels, no cosmetic damage. Rotates fully to vertical Power brick is a Fuyuan Electronics 100-240V 60Hz input adapater, works fine after I switched the input cable to 3 prong.
> Included dual-link DVI cable.
> Monitor doesn't support 60Hz at any resolution but that's a non-issue for me.
> Somebody asked earlier (or maybe it was a different thread, iunno) if you could hook up a PS3 to it. I have a DVI-HDMI adapter and I can verify that BF3 will run fine (note that's at 720.) For whatever reason my PS3 lately refuses to let me use 1080p/i on any of my displays so I can't vouch for 1080 content. Will try using different cables later and edit the post, maybe I grabbed one of my old crappy HDMI cables.


Is this the DVI only model?

I want to run my games at 720p on a PC, use the GPU scaler of the HD4870 to handle this. Would this be possible on this monitor?
BIOS and everything does work correctly? I am not sure always whether it is the multi-input model shown.

This monitor will be used more for work than gaming, but would still like to be able to play lag free and halving the resolution + scaling seems like a good way to go.

Thanks!

EDIT: Also, hello to everyone and hope I am not such a n00b that I am chased out of here


----------



## Modz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> So should I go fourth with a step up/step down transformer? Since the known working power brick is $123 now? Or should I wait out a brick, seeing the brick is _still_ 220v regardless?
> Note, my supplied brick and DVI cable are working admirably. but like all of you, I'd feel better with the proper power brick or conversion.


The Brick is back at 25bucks, go ahead and buy it now haha!


----------



## EvilGnomes

no its not...still at 123.99..


----------



## MrSpoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilGnomes*
> 
> cool.
> would this power brick work?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350
> the one listed jumped from an affordable $23.99 to an outrageous $123.99..I think somebody fat fingered it.


Just felt like chiming in and saying I bought this, the polarity on the image matches the polarity shown on my power brick.


----------



## EvilGnomes

i take it, it works for the monitor then?


----------



## MrSpoon

Sure looks like it. It has the necessary voltage/amperage and the plug's the same as ours. Worst case scenario, I'll have to shave part of the side off and rotate it. It's not a problem for me to do that, but if anyone is leery of it, I'd wait for confirmation on this or another brick as working, or wait for the $123.99 on to drop in price.


----------



## Modz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilGnomes*
> 
> no its not...still at 123.99..


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370289111888

DEFINITELY SAYS 25.69!


----------



## MrSpoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modz*
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370289111888
> DEFINITELY SAYS 25.69!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300555688796 is the one they're quoting at $123.


----------



## Rizyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crowat*
> 
> This is what worked in the past for me on a couple of different monitors with stuck pixels (one was a red pixel on a BenQ and another was a Green stuck pixel on a 23inch Acer).
> Note do this on your own risk. I am not an expert regarding LCDs. You can always cause more dead pixels by trying this. (although it never happened to me)
> Take a piece of cloth (I used a eye class cleaning cloth) and gently start massaging the screen. I would start by gently doing circles around the stuck pixels with a single finger and gradually move further out form the dead pixel. In each case for me pressure on a random screen area away from the stuck pixel caused the issue to correct itself. (one case was about 1.5 inches NW from the stuck pixel and in the other was about an inch away below).
> From my experience the flashing screen programs didn't work (but it never hurts to try). Also, this doesn't work with dead (black pixels).
> Good Luck!


did you do this while the monitor was on or off? TIA


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> I got my Crossover 27Q LED this week! I couldn't be happier!!! This thing is absolutely AMAZING. I've been waiting three years to upgrade to a monitor of this caliber (could bring myself to pay 1000+). I went with the crossover because I really liked the look of the white metal back.
> 
> Let me tell you...this thing hasn't disappointed me at all. I think the aesthetics are TOP notch. I think the white back gives the monitor a kind of edgy/industrial/retro look. I just wish I wasn't wall mounting so that I could see the back more often.
> 
> Seriously temped to order another...even though I don't have a place for 2 monitors yet.
> 
> Mine came with a single stuck red pixel. It was actually quite prominent at first and I saw it right away. It was so big...it might have even been a couple stuck pixels side by side. Since then I have been trying a few of the massage tricks and I've been running PixelRepairer over it for about two days now and I'm quite pleased that the stuck pixel has almost disappeared! Now...its very hard to see. I'm hopeful that will a little more massage and another day or two of pixelrepairer, it will be 100% gone.
> 
> No dead pixels. Backlight bleed is pretty good.
> 
> So yes...a VERY happy customer here!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Oh...forgot one other thing. I had requested a no dead/stuck pixel check from dream-seller. This was about 12 hours before he started charging for this service.
> 
> Needless to say...I still got a stuck pixel. So I really don't think the extra check is worth anything. I definitely wouldn't pay a premium for the service.


Same here man, always wanted a monitor of this size and resolution, I just couldn't bring myself to spend a truckload of cash for it... not worth it. Can't wait for my Crossover!
And yeah, I knew the pixel check wasn't worth it..


----------



## KaRLiToS

I prefer the Crossover over the Catleap.

But the thing that is stopping me from buying it is the 220v power brick.

I don't know what to get despite what I read in the thread. Some people need a power brick, but sometime I see some step down transformer.

I live in Canada and plan of buying 3 of these soon.


----------



## crowat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rizyn*
> 
> did you do this while the monitor was on or off? TIA


Do it while the monitor is on. You should be able to see the pixel unstuck once you hit the sweet spot.


----------



## KaRLiToS

What power Brick do I need to buy with the Crossover? Or do I need a step down transformer? Or Which converter ?


----------



## Druidje

I've just ordered a crossover 27q.. hopefully, there won't be any dead pixels.

I'll take lots of high quality pictures, by the way. Can't wait!


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Yeah I'm in no rush. Some reported their brick that came with the monitor running hot, not mine, cool to the touch so I'm pretty certain I'll be fine if I stick with this. I would like to order the replacement if only just for a backup if I need one.
> FYI, my replacement DVI DL cable came from Monoprice the other day and hooked it up last night. It's quite a bit more substantial than the stock one and I could *swear* my picture quality is slightly better. Also, I know this sounds silly and is probably a coincidence, but after changing cables, a dead pixel I discovered a bit later is now working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the cable I got, btw:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2
> This monitor has been a joy to work and play with for the 3 days I've had it now. The only complaint is that I wish I had a way to color calibrate it well enough. There's gotta be profiles out there people have done to get it look a bit better.


Why did you need a new DVI cable?


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike43110*
> 
> Is this the DVI only model?
> I want to run my games at 720p on a PC, use the GPU scaler of the HD4870 to handle this. Would this be possible on this monitor?
> BIOS and everything does work correctly? I am not sure always whether it is the multi-input model shown.
> This monitor will be used more for work than gaming, but would still like to be able to play lag free and halving the resolution + scaling seems like a good way to go.
> Thanks!
> EDIT: Also, hello to everyone and hope I am not such a n00b that I am chased out of here


Welcome from another n0oB.

Yes, the GPU scaler will work for that. When I had my 5770 I was playing my games at 1600x900 and it worked fine. 1280x720 will work, but it will look like crap because of the 4x scaling. 1600x900 actually didn't look bad at all, for me. With the new 7870, playing at full 1440p









BB


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Why did you need a new DVI cable?


Didn't _need_ one, just didn't trust the quality of the one that came with it, that's all.


----------



## Dougiet

Got a crossover 27q from dreamseller after placing an order for a pcbank2700. Zero dead pixels but there is an uneveness to the diffusers or something because on light backgrounds I can see several darker areas including a faint line running across the bottom (much like zr2740w's have).Gonna have to tear it apart and try to even them out. Also the blacks on this monitor arent as "black" as my shimians but still all n all a good screen for the money. Out of the 3 CO27Q'S my brothers got and mine there isnt a dead pixel between them just some funky diffuser issues.


----------



## Wage

No idea if it was the OP or someone else who created the poll, but "perfect picture" to me suggests zero dead/stuck pixels, and no backlight bleed, not "up to 5" dead pixels. What the heck?


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> No idea if it was the OP or someone else who created the poll, but "perfect picture" to me suggests zero dead/stuck pixels, and no backlight bleed, not "up to 5" dead pixels. What the heck?


Lol, no.
If you want an absolute perfect monitor, you'll need to pony up and buy a Dell.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I think you mean buy a Dell/NEC/HP then exchange it a few times









Mine should arrive tomorrow.


----------



## Piezo

Has anyone here ordered from red-cap? What was the turnaround time on your order? I like that he gives you the ability to make an offer... now whether he accepts it or not is a different story ofc.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I ordered mine from RED-CAP on Friday and he shipped it first thing Tuesday morning (Korean Time). I live in BC, Canada and it was cleared for customs yesterday, should receive it tomorrow. I offered 415$ when it was 433$, now they are 410$


----------



## Piezo

Ah cool, I live in BC as well! So you didn't have to pay any brokerage fees or whatnot for it coming over the border? I'm looking at getting the fixed stand version, so I was thinking of offering $370 or $375 for it. Btw, did you order a separate power brick with yours?


----------



## MenacingTuba

I'll know if I get charged duty fees tomorrow, assuming it actually arrives. I didn't order a power brick yet because I am still unsure if I need to or not

Also Fact #2 is wrong
2. Is this similar to the Yamasaki Catleap, Achieva Shimian, and PCBank 3View I keep hear about?
Yes, they all use the same LG S-IPS 8-bit LED panel. The difference is the circuity that drives the monitor. However, a review for PCBank 3View showed it have a *slightly lower input lag* than the rest.

The PCB has slightly lower pixel response times, presuming it is properly over-driven it should handle motion better. Whether it is actually faster is something only some one with both can tell us, assuming they are experienced in judging motion.


----------



## Piezo

Yea I'm not sure if I'll need the power brick either so I will probably hold off too. It sucks that the other one that was confirmed to work with this monitor has gone way up in price otherwise I would have just bought that anyway.


----------



## kazenagi

Ordered two crossovers from redcap they took a total of 2 days to get to me, came marked as a $70 gift each so no customs, no fees or anything. On top of that both of them came flawless with no dead pixels but the backlight bleed on one of them was pretty noticeable, it's been getting better though.


----------



## Jarobata

Purchased from DreamSeller, will update with condition upon arrival. Power brick still showing wrong price.


----------



## Dioptase

Received my Crossover LED-P from redcap today. Unfortunately it has one pixel stuck in green near the middle which I'm going to try fix by massaging.

Other than that it is a great screen, everything has much greater clarity compared to my 2407WFP.


----------



## Piezo

So I sent in a message to red-cap, and they say that the included power brick is for 220v. So I guess I will be the guinea pig and order this adapter http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350.

Oh and my offer at $375 to buy the monitor from red-cap went through, he even replied to my message today which is the same day I sent it. So far I'm quite impressed with this level of service. I just finished checking out now, will update once I receive the monitor.


----------



## Rizyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dioptase*
> 
> Received my Crossover LED-P from redcap today. Unfortunately it has one pixel stuck in green near the middle which I'm going to try fix by massaging.
> Other than that it is a great screen, everything has much greater clarity compared to my 2407WFP.


i pretty much gave up trying to unstuck my green pixel. i massaged and applied so much pressure to the point where i started to see random white pixels flashing around and got shook so decided i will cut my lost with just this one pixel rather than create more. kinda annoying as i'm always looking at it being so close to the center and all, but it only shows in dark background. hopefully you get better luck with yours. Crossovers seems to be the only monitors out of the 3 (catleaps/shimian), that more often than not, comes with at least a stuck pixel.


----------



## smackmybishop

I have a couple of questions:

Whats the difference between gloss and matte screen?

Is there any benefit in getting a monitor with tempered glass?

Whats the difference between LED and LED-P

What does overclocking the monitor do for you?

Is see a bunch of talk about the correct powerbrick to get but couldn't you just use a transformer instead? Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Power-Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1332751017&sr=8-2 ?


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Lol, no.
> If you want an absolute perfect monitor, you'll need to pony up and buy a Dell.


Actually, that's precisely why I'm looking at these Korean panels: because they're half the price of a ZR30w or U3011. Still, if what you guys mean is that I should always expect something wrong with them, then I guess that answers that









I guess one compromise would be to go with an equally expensive 27" Apple LED Cinema Display. I for one hate glare, but I'm beginning to hate AG even more, especially when this is for home use and not a work environment...


----------



## Modz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smackmybishop*
> 
> I have a couple of questions:
> Whats the difference between gloss and matte screen?
> Is there any benefit in getting a monitor with tempered glass?
> Whats the difference between LED and LED-P
> What does overclocking the monitor do for you?
> Is see a bunch of talk about the correct powerbrick to get but couldn't you just use a transformer instead? Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Power-Bright-VC500W-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B000MX1QXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1332751017&sr=8-2 ?


Glossy screens produce a richer quality image but is affected more by glare. On the other hand, matte screen is the exact opposite, it handles glare better but has reduced contrast/blurring/distorted viewing angles.

The different between LED and LED-P is that the "-P" stand for pivot, allowing the screen to go vertical 90 degrees. portrait/landscape essentially

Overclocking a screen does a couple of things, mostly here at OCN is is looking to smooth out the image quality. Although some people don't recognize the image quality between 60-120hz, others will argue the opposite. All in all it is personal preference and whether or not you can actually see a visual difference.

Yes you can use a transformer, but it is ugly and bulky and disturbs the fung shway of my room.


----------



## KaRLiToS

What the main difference in the screen between the Crossover 27Q Lep-P and the Yamakasi Catleap. I want to have a Monitor without Glass for Gaming Which one do I take?

Thanks


----------



## kazenagi

Same screen, the catleaps don't come with the pcb that allows higher refresh rates so you're better they're the same in terms of gaming. If you don't want glass then just order versions without the glass, some half of the catleaps have tempered glass versions while only one or two have glass versions for the crossover but that's only for 27Q LED I think.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Actually, that's precisely why I'm looking at these Korean panels: because they're half the price of a ZR30w or U3011. Still, if what you guys mean is that I should always expect something wrong with them, then I guess that answers that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess one compromise would be to go with an equally expensive 27" Apple LED Cinema Display. I for one hate glare, but I'm beginning to hate AG even more, especially when this is for home use and not a work environment...


I think his point is if you want guaranteed perfection go with a Dell, specifically because you can get it replaced if it has any flaws. I don't think everyone here is expecting a flawed monitor, they are just accepting the possibility.


----------



## otaku30

After having time yesterday I was able to check for screen defects on my monitor - I have one stuck red pixel in the lower right corner of the monitor - which I can hardly see even if I am looking for it.

The monitor seems to run fairly cool temp wise - esp compared to my old dell 24".

This is my first glossy screen and I honestly can't say that glare/reflections have been an issue for me so far.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I'm sure they did a mistake on the Crossover power brick and its the same brick as the other Monitors (110/220v).


----------



## araman

Got a very reasonable explanation from the seller of the power brick just now:

Dear customer,

I am sorry for the inconvenience. We have received a bad batch of these adapters so at this time, we have raised the pricing. Once we receive a new batch, the price will go back down.

In other words, patience


----------



## evilrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Got a very reasonable explanation from the seller of the power brick just now:
> Dear customer,
> 
> I am sorry for the inconvenience. We have received a bad batch of these adapters so at this time, we have raised the pricing. Once we receive a new batch, the price will go back down.
> 
> In other words, patience


Ummm.... I hope the brick I received was not part of the bad batch. The brick does run a little hot. Guess I need to ask the seller what the problem was with this so called "bad batch."


----------



## Druidje

Guys.. both the crossover led and led-p are glossy, right?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Yes

Simpletech needs to update the FAQ's still


----------



## KaRLiToS

What is Glossy? Like the Catleap, is Glossy good for gaming?


----------



## Druidje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> What is Glossy? Like the Catleap, is Glossy good for gaming?


Glossy produces a more accurate, vivid and colorful picture, however it can be really annoying since it's well... glossy. think of it like a mirror - if there's a light behind you, you'll see it in your screen.
With a matte panel, you won't see reflections, but the color and other things are less accurate.

It's a matter of preference.


----------



## Jarobata

Anyone find an Amazon equivalent for the replacement power brick? The established one continues to be "out of stock" (i.e. 123.99).


----------



## Piezo

I ordered this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350.and I'll try it out once my monitor gets here. I had a brief look on amazon but I wasn't able to find anything... maybe I wasn't putting the right key words though. I couldn't find any power bricks with that 4-pin connector for a monitor.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I think we might not need any new bricks for the Crossover monitors. i'll check it this week at my job to be sure that the power brick from the manufacturer is also a 110v-230v brick.

I'll receive 3 x Crossover 27Q Led-P, I hope the stand is good because I'm buying it over the Catleap because of the stand. I'm buying from Red-Cap


----------



## araman

Anyone here know where I can get a quick rundown of the ICM files in the Catleap thread and how to use them properly on the Windows 7 color management applet? I'm loading the files given in that thread to try them out, but nothing seems to be changing and I don't know what I'm doing wrong even after reading the MS supplied documentation on how to use color management profiles.

Help!


----------



## kazenagi

Crossover bricks and Shimian bricks are the same. 230v 50/60hz 1.2A. I can't say for where you live but here in Markham, Canada they work perfectly fine with the wall here, no overly hot brick or any other negatives.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Maybe, but I'll use multimeter to see if there is really 24v DC coming out of the outlet.

Thanks kazenagi, you helped me a lot .


----------



## EvilGnomes

just got a reply from silicon electronics that sells the power brick
Quote:


> Dear customer,
> 
> I am very sorry for the inconvenience. We have received a bad batch of these adapters. Once we receive new, working ones, we will lower the price.
> 
> Thank you very much for your business.


at least they are honest about it. makes some sense with the price.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fail*
> What is Glossy?


Seriously?








Ever heard of Google or thought of looking at some of the pictures+reviews posted in the facts section on the first page of this thread.


















I received mine, no back-light bleeding at maximum brightness and no dead pixels or dust under the glossy screen.

Colour temperature was 8300k out of the box,(super blue dominance) max brightness was 277cdm/2 and the black level was 0.33cdm/2 for a contrast ratio of 834:1. This type of variance (Playerwares measured 1100=1200:1) is typical for LG panels because LG sucks.










Calibrated










I am pretty disappointed, but being an LG panel I should have expected this. I will try and calibrate it by adjusting the blue in the Nvidia Control panel and see if that prevents such a large contrast reduction.


----------



## wheelsx45

Here is the good power brick for the normal price, I think this company is somehow related to the ebay seller. My crossover is coming with the new US powr brick from dcsamsungmall so not sure if that company is good or not.

http://www.bestcompu.com/Products/5942.html


----------



## drka0tic

This place has it in stock for $27:

http://laptopbattery-hp.com/ac-adapter-24v-5a-for-efl2202w-effinet-lcd-monitor-fy2405000-p-9178.html


----------



## donnydorko

just got my crossover Led-P from DCSamsung , arrived in 3 days from korea to louisiana. Works like a charm , i bought the adapter off ebay a few days ago and that works perfectly with the monitor. I have some minor backlight bleed in the bottom right, and found 2 dead pixels, very hard to notice them but its not zero :'d .

Just out of curiosity how do you adjust the height of the monitor , and anyone have suggestions on how to fix the dead pixels?


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donnydorko*
> 
> just got my crossover Led-P from DCSamsung , arrived in 3 days from korea to louisiana. Works like a charm , i bought the adapter off ebay a few days ago and that works perfectly with the monitor. I have some minor backlight bleed in the bottom right, and found 2 dead pixels, very hard to notice them but its not zero :'d .
> Just out of curiosity how do you adjust the height of the monitor , and anyone have suggestions on how to fix the dead pixels?


There's a pin/screw on the back of the monitor. Take it out to change the height.


----------



## akatosh32

Hi there,

I received my CrossOver today, and unfortunately I'm having the same problem akg102 had:
Quote:


> I just got mine today. When trying to use the shipped power block, the power light turns blue and the screen flashes for a second and then shuts down. The light then turns red. What do you guys think?


My roommate has a Shimian which came with the same adapter I received (the Nanjing Frontek 230V one), and I have tried using his adapter. My girlfriend also bought a CrossOver and I tried her adapter as well, no luck either.









I have tried switching to his DVI cord and changed ports on the graphics card. I used his graphics card which he knows works with his Shimian.

Is there any chance that if I ordered a replacement adapter it would work? Or do you think that since I have tried three different adapters (albeit, all 230V ones), that my monitor might just be DoA. Would it make sense for the monitor to power up and then flash if it was DoA?

I do know that in the main thread, someone said they had a somewhat similar problem with a Shimian or Catleap and after opening up their monitor and they saw that one of their connectors had become loose and secured it and then the monitor worked. I'm kind of a newbie though and I don't know exactly what that would involve. Where would I look and how would I secure the connector?

Any advice is much appreciated.


----------



## haccess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akatosh32*
> 
> Hi there,
> I received my CrossOver today, and unfortunately I'm having the same problem akg102 had:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I just got mine today. When trying to use the shipped power block, the power light turns blue and the screen flashes for a second and then shuts down. The light then turns red. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> My roommate has a Shimian which came with the same adapter I received (the Nanjing Frontek 230V one), and I have tried using his adapter. My girlfriend also bought a CrossOver and I tried her adapter as well, no luck either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried switching to his DVI cord and changed ports on the graphics card. I used his graphics card which he knows works with his Shimian.
> Is there any chance that if I ordered a replacement adapter it would work? Or do you think that since I have tried three different adapters (albeit, all 230V ones), that my monitor might just be DoA. Would it make sense for the monitor to power up and then flash if it was DoA?
> I do know that in the main thread, someone said they had a somewhat similar problem with a Shimian or Catleap and after opening up their monitor and they saw that one of their connectors had become loose and secured it and then the monitor worked. I'm kind of a newbie though and I don't know exactly what that would involve. Where would I look and how would I secure the connector?
> Any advice is much appreciated.
Click to expand...

If you have a multimeter you can check to see if your bricks are actually outputting 24v. If they aren't, it's just possible your roommate's Shimian deals with the lower output voltage better than your Crossover. To fix it, I'd get a step-up transformer or alternative power brick if you can find one available. If it is in fact outputting 24v it could be a problem with the connectors inside but I don't know that anyone's actually taken the Crossover's screen apart yet, so if you do decide to check the internal connections be sure and take pictures.


----------



## Modz

Order from DC now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-/320866235396?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51e3404
Quote:


> Notice: We provide free 24v 5A adaptor (110v~240v) for US and Canada customer.


----------



## donnydorko

last question , sorry its hard finding some posts when the threads are so big ;D, I have a nvidia card, how do i attempt to overclock the refresh rate. I am not familar with overclocking monitors. ( i know i probably wont be able to go past 60 but i wanted to try )

Currently at 60


----------



## EvilGnomes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modz*
> 
> Order from DC now:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-/320866235396?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51e3404


yeah, saw that today. Ill order from him friday when i get my discover card and activate it...HURRY UP!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donnydorko*
> 
> last question , sorry its hard finding some posts when the threads are so big ;D, I have a nvidia card, how do i attempt to overclock the refresh rate. I am not familar with overclocking monitors. ( i know i probably wont be able to go past 60 but i wanted to try )
> Currently at 60


basically all the monitor's that you can order on ebay, crossover and those will not overclock


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modz*
> 
> Order from DC now:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-/320866235396?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51e3404


Ugh so depressed I already ordered from dream-seller. FYI when he marks it as shipped, he's lying. Marked it as shipped yesterday but turns out he won't actually be shipping until tomorrow or the next day. Still need to order an ac adapter (which will make it overall more expensive than DC







)


----------



## the_real_7

ordered from DCsamsungmall. , he verified that screen will come with new American adapter , so lets see what happens ill post back some results soon as i get


----------



## Rayyeter

I've been wondering what kind of graphics card I really need. I know I should just be patient and wait for my full bore ivy bridge update, but goddamnit, I can't stop looking. I play games like skyrim/SWTOR, so they're not as graphically intense as say BF3 or some other dx11 title. I've been pondering a 7950 or even 7870 instead of a gtx 680, mainly because the lower reference design for cooling sucks and is loud as hell, but I wonder how much I'd regret it. I wish benchmarks put in 1440p (driving ~500k less pixels does make a difference)


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayyeter*
> 
> I've been wondering what kind of graphics card I really need. I know I should just be patient and wait for my full bore ivy bridge update, but goddamnit, I can't stop looking. I play games like skyrim/SWTOR, so they're not as graphically intense as say BF3 or some other dx11 title. I've been pondering a 7950 or even 7870 instead of a gtx 680, mainly because the lower reference design for cooling sucks and is loud as hell, but I wonder how much I'd regret it. I wish benchmarks put in 1440p (driving ~500k less pixels does make a difference)


I can tell you with AA disabled (who needs it at this res?) my fps were great with a single 580 (in BF3). I assumed I was taking atleast a 50% fps hit when I ordered the monitor so I also went ahead and bought a 2nd LE, but really didn't need to.

With AAx4 it was 30fps to 40fps and kind of choppy. With none, 45-75fps just like it was before on 1080p w/ AAx4

Looking for a single card solution? Accelero's out for the 680 yet? buy a reference and put one of those bad boys on it?


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayyeter*
> 
> I've been wondering what kind of graphics card I really need. I know I should just be patient and wait for my full bore ivy bridge update, but goddamnit, I can't stop looking. I play games like skyrim/SWTOR, so they're not as graphically intense as say BF3 or some other dx11 title. I've been pondering a 7950 or even 7870 instead of a gtx 680, mainly because the lower reference design for cooling sucks and is loud as hell, but I wonder how much I'd regret it. I wish benchmarks put in 1440p (driving ~500k less pixels does make a difference)


I've very curious to see how my setup will handle the resolution. I may be in the market for a 680 soon.


----------



## Rayyeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> With AAx4 it was 30fps to 40fps and kind of choppy. With none, 45-75fps just like it was before on 1080p w/ AAx4
> Looking for a single card solution? Accelero's out for the 680 yet? buy a reference and put one of those bad boys on it?


I currently run at 1920x1200, and don't typically use AA anyway, so that's good to hear. By the time I upgrade, I'm hoping non-reference boards are out in general, but if I do decide to go ATI, that option is already there. Last time I mucked around with a video card I ended up breaking capacitors on it (hand slipped and hit a cap), So I'd almost rather not put stuff on myself.

The only thing stopping me from getting this now is that I want to upgrade all at once. I'll def. be getting the Crossover, since it's the only one that'll fit my current desk/hutch, but I fear my gtx285 would quite literally crap its pants. It's having a hard enough time at 19x12.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I can tell you with AA disabled (who needs it at this res?) my fps were great with a single 580 (in BF3). I assumed I was taking atleast a 50% fps hit when I ordered the monitor so I also went ahead and bought a 2nd LE, but really didn't need to.
> With AAx4 it was 30fps to 40fps and kind of choppy. With none, 45-75fps just like it was before on 1080p w/ AAx4
> Looking for a single card solution? Accelero's out for the 680 yet? buy a reference and put one of those bad boys on it?


You're telling me you're getting 45-75 FPS with 580 Extreme SLI on Ultra with no AA?


----------



## jrcbandit

Anyone with a stuck bright green pixel manage to make it go away? I might end up selling my monitor if I can't get it to disappear as that is all I can focus on when viewing the screen... It pretty much shows up on anything I do except when it is a white or yellow background. I'd much rather it just be a single dead pixel that at least would only be black.

I should have just gone with a Catleap (although I dont really like the bezel) and gotten an aftermarket stand ;p. Various friends of mine have ordered Catleaps (5+) with 0 dead/stuck pixels, sigh.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> You're telling me you're getting 45-75 FPS with 580 Extreme SLI on Ultra with no AA?


I'm telling you I got those fps with a SINGLE 580 LE with no AA w/ the Crossover.

Now, my fps are just silly-too-high. I could totally vsync it, I don't dip below 60.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I'm telling you I got those fps with a SINGLE 580 LE with no AA w/ the Crossover.
> Now, my fps are just silly-too-high. I could totally vsync it, I don't dip below 60.


Oh thank god.


----------



## tianh

Ordering my Crossover very soon. The monitor looks absolutely gorgeous from the photos









Now, should I order from red_cap or dreamseller?


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrcbandit*
> 
> Anyone with a stuck bright green pixel manage to make it go away? I might end up selling my monitor if I can't get it to disappear as that is all I can focus on when viewing the screen... It pretty much shows up on anything I do except when it is a white or yellow background. I'd much rather it just be a single dead pixel that at least would only be black.
> I should have just gone with a Catleap (although I dont really like the bezel) and gotten an aftermarket stand ;p. Various friends of mine have ordered Catleaps (5+) with 0 dead/stuck pixels, sigh.


That sucks, now you're making me want a catleap.


----------



## crowat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrcbandit*
> 
> Anyone with a stuck bright green pixel manage to make it go away? I might end up selling my monitor if I can't get it to disappear as that is all I can focus on when viewing the screen... It pretty much shows up on anything I do except when it is a white or yellow background. I'd much rather it just be a single dead pixel that at least would only be black.
> I should have just gone with a Catleap (although I dont really like the bezel) and gotten an aftermarket stand ;p. Various friends of mine have ordered Catleaps (5+) with 0 dead/stuck pixels, sigh.


Did you try massaging the screen? I posted a couple of pages back how to do it.


----------



## sbuck333

I contacted the seller of the formerly $23.99 power brick that shot up to 123.99. They said it was on back order and the price will go down when they get more.


----------



## jrcbandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crowat*
> 
> Did you try massaging the screen? I posted a couple of pages back how to do it.


Yep, I dunno if I am doing it correctly but I tried a variety of techniques. Wrapped the eraser end of a pencil in lint-free cloth and pressed on it, wrapped finger in slightly wet cloth and massaged area in a circle and nearby area, wrapped 3DS stylus in cloth and applied pressure/tapped screen. I also ran Jscreen fix for a few hours without any effect. The only benefit is I think I originally had 2 stuck pixels, as it isn't quite as bright as when i first started using my monitor.

How long should I be trying these techniques? I don't do them very long because I don't want to mess up the other pixels. Maybe that is where I am going wrong.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> That sucks, now you're making me want a catleap.


Not sure why he thinks a Catleap can't have the same defects... the jist here is that Crossovers have about the same rate of success on perfect panel as the Catleaps do. There's just a larger sample size on the Catleap, so it only looks like *everyone* is getting perfect panels. Proud member of the perfect panel club myself. Couldn't be happier with the purchase.


----------



## akatosh32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akatosh32*
> 
> Hi there,
> I received my CrossOver today, and unfortunately I'm having the same problem akg102 had:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I just got mine today. When trying to use the shipped power block, the power light turns blue and the screen flashes for a second and then shuts down. The light then turns red. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> My roommate has a Shimian which came with the same adapter I received (the Nanjing Frontek 230V one), and I have tried using his adapter. My girlfriend also bought a CrossOver and I tried her adapter as well, no luck either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried switching to his DVI cord and changed ports on the graphics card. I used his graphics card which he knows works with his Shimian.
> Is there any chance that if I ordered a replacement adapter it would work? Or do you think that since I have tried three different adapters (albeit, all 230V ones), that my monitor might just be DoA. Would it make sense for the monitor to power up and then flash if it was DoA?
> I do know that in the main thread, someone said they had a somewhat similar problem with a Shimian or Catleap and after opening up their monitor and they saw that one of their connectors had become loose and secured it and then the monitor worked. I'm kind of a newbie though and I don't know exactly what that would involve. Where would I look and how would I secure the connector?
> Any advice is much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hi guys, I got two monitors working (me and my girlfriend both got CrossOvers). It's very strange, I used another of my friends' Catleap 110-240v power adapter and connected to his tower and it worked. So I figured it was in fact just the power adapter being 110-240v that did the trick, but I tried bringing his power adapter upstairs and using it on my other friend's tower and it wouldn't work. So it worked with my buddy's 4870, but not my other friend's 5850s in crossfire. Doesn't make much sense right? I'm building a PC this fall, so I wasn't planning on using the monitor much until then unless I get a new MackBook Pro and an active DP to DVI converter, but it bothers me that I can't be 100% confident that the monitor will work with whatever card I end up getting. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, I think there are enough people now who've had success with changing to a 110-240V adapter that it's worth updating the OP. Especially with information about the "power light turns blue and the screen flashes for a second and then shuts down" thing and how it seems to be caused by a problem with the adapter.

Edit: Doesn't make much sense that you can't vote for both "Perfect Picture" and "Problem with adapter" in the Poll.


----------



## tianh

Crossover ordered from dream seller. I can't wait to join this club soon and see what this IPS higher resolution craze is about! Better be worth it ;P


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akatosh32*
> 
> Edit: Doesn't make much sense that you can't vote for both "Perfect Picture" and "Problem with adapter" in the Poll.


You should be able to. It's multiple choice.









I'll see about updating the OP later tonight.


----------



## jta98z

I can't seem to tell from the auctions which models are tempered and which are not?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> I can't seem to tell from the auctions which models are tempered and which are not?


You won't be able to tell the difference since all the sellers are using the stock reference photos. Just look at the eBay title and description.


----------



## Druidje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> I can't seem to tell from the auctions which models are tempered and which are not?


It's clearly specified if it's tempered in the title/description.


----------



## Animanganime

Hello everyone
Let's say that I buy this transformer over here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160733087308?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_2927wt_1396
When I get it I assume that I would have to plug the monitor in where it says Output 220V right ?
But since my computer and gpu and everything is 110v, will it be ok or will the monitor Shock my gpu to death ?
Thanks guy


----------



## tianh

So when I bought my Crossover from Dreamseller, will it come with the right adapter to plug into a US outlet? I live in California, if not can someone link me to one that I can buy asap? I know theres a ton of links in previous pages but the seem plagued with the price spike.

Thanks!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animanganime*
> 
> Hello everyone
> Let's say that I buy this transformer over here
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/160733087308?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_2927wt_1396
> When I get it I assume that I would have to plug the monitor in where it says Output 220V right ?
> But since my computer and gpu and everything is 110v, will it be ok or will the monitor Shock my gpu to death ?
> Thanks guy


I've been poking around the same bush, Yeah.. That's what I think, I don't see why it wouldn't do the job. Also, I've been looking at this step up/step down tranformer . It's 100w and less expensive, should be perfect for a single IPS.


----------



## Animanganime

Thanks, do you think 100w is way too close to the edge though ? since the maximum power consumption is 95W


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animanganime*
> 
> Thanks, do you think 100w is way too close to the edge though ? since the maximum power consumption is 95W


Perhaps. I'll Kill-A-Watt mine sometime soon. I thought the max was 65w but I think I do remember reading 95w somewhere now that I think about it.


----------



## jta98z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Druidje*
> 
> It's clearly specified if it's tempered in the title/description.


Apparently its not so clear from dcsamsungmall. Either that or its in Korean. I just looked at the whole auction.

I really want to purchase from dcsamsungmall, so can anyone who has purchased from him verify if their monitor is tempered or not?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> Apparently its not so clear from dcsamsungmall. Either that or its in Korean. I just looked at the whole auction.
> I really want to purchase from dcsamsungmall, so can anyone who has purchased from him verify if their monitor is tempered or not?


dcsamsungmall does not have a tempered glass Crossover for sale from what I can tell.

cool-guys does for $430


----------



## inferno222

Hi guys,

I ordered two crossover LED-P monitors from red-cap and received them today. One monitor works fine (no dead pixels as far as I can tell) however when trying to pivot into portrait mode, it won't reach a full 90 degrees, only about 85. I'm afraid to force it any more, as I had to use a good amount to get it there to begin with.

Now my second monitor is a quite a bit more problematic. I have the same issue that a couple of other users here have had. Plug monitor in, turn on, screen flashes for a second with a blue LED, then screen turns off and the LED turns red. I swapped the power cable, adapter, and DVI cable with the working one and still no go. I did see one user post that they were able to get the monitor working with a 110v adapter, so I went ahead and ordered this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/350369931415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193ace097#ht_1481wt_1139) adapter in hopes that it will work. Unfortunately, that isn't the only problem. This monitor won't pivot at all. I applied the same force that worked with the first monitor and it won't budge.

I really do like the display quality, so I hope I can get it working. For anyone else interested in ordering, I e-mailed red-cap and he said he could include a USA adapter for an additional $20 before he ships the monitors. Too late for me, but hopefully someone can take advantage of that. He accepted my offer of $800 for two monitors.

Thanks for everyones input in this thread.


----------



## jta98z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inferno222*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I ordered two crossover LED-P monitors from red-cap and received them today. One monitor works fine (no dead pixels as far as I can tell) however when trying to pivot into portrait mode, it won't reach a full 90 degrees, only about 85. I'm afraid to force it any more, as I had to use a good amount to get it there to begin with.
> Now my second monitor is a quite a bit more problematic. I have the same issue that a couple of other users here have had. Plug monitor in, turn on, screen flashes for a second with a blue LED, then screen turns off and the LED turns red. I swapped the power cable, adapter, and DVI cable with the working one and still no go. I did see one user post that they were able to get the monitor working with a 110v adapter, so I went ahead and ordered this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/350369931415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193ace097#ht_1481wt_1139) adapter in hopes that it will work. Unfortunately, that isn't the only problem. This monitor won't pivot at all. I applied the same force that worked with the first monitor and it won't budge.
> I really do like the display quality, so I hope I can get it working. For anyone else interested in ordering, I e-mailed red-cap and he said he could include a USA adapter for an additional $20 before he ships the monitors. Too late for me, but hopefully someone can take advantage of that. He accepted my offer of $800 for two monitors.
> Thanks for everyones input in this thread.


Jeez...I'm starting to question even purchasing a Crossover, Shimian, or Catleap now. I'm reallly not tryin to pay $400 for a monitor that potentially wont work and then pay another ~$80 to ship the damn thing back.

I really wanted a Shimian because I liked the styling and tempered glass. Now I find out that the power adapters could potentially fry them and Crossovers are the only ones that come included with US adapters but none of those are tempered. And the ones that are tempered don't have the damn US adapters!









This is starting to sound a little too risky for me. I can't really afford to waste money in indirect costs like returns and power bricks etc.


----------



## inferno222

It is unfortunate, but at these prices it's a risk you have to be willing to take. Even if I am out $80 to ship it back and $30 for the adapter, at $510, it's still a pretty good deal since the lowest comparable monitor I can find is about $700. A $190 savings isn't too shabby. The hardest part for me was having to wait for the monitors, now I have to wait for another power adapter before I find out what to do next. Also, keep in mind the US adapter isn't guaranteed if you buy a crossover - both of mine came with 230v adapters.


----------



## jta98z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> Jeez...I'm starting to question even purchasing a Crossover, Shimian, or Catleap now. I'm reallly not tryin to pay $400 for a monitor that potentially wont work and then pay another ~$80 to ship the damn thing back.
> I really wanted a Shimian because I liked the styling and tempered glass. Now I find out that the power adapters could potentially fry them and Crossovers are the only ones that come included with US adapters but none of those are tempered. And the ones that are tempered don't have the damn US adapters!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is starting to sound a little too risky for me. I can't really afford to waste money in indirect costs like returns and power bricks etc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inferno222*
> 
> It is unfortunate, but at these prices it's a risk you have to be willing to take. Even if I am out $80 to ship it back and $30 for the adapter, at $510, it's still a pretty good deal since the lowest comparable monitor I can find is about $700. A $190 savings isn't too shabby. The hardest part for me was having to wait for the monitors, now I have to wait for another power adapter before I find out what to do next. Also, keep in mind the US adapter isn't guaranteed if you buy a crossover - both of mine came with 230v adapters.


Oh yeah I realize that. It was just stated in dcsamsungmall's auction that is is included. Speaking of a $30 adapter, where and what have you found for $30? I thought they were like $120?


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> Jeez...I'm starting to question even purchasing a Crossover, Shimian, or Catleap now. I'm reallly not tryin to pay $400 for a monitor that potentially wont work and then pay another ~$80 to ship the damn thing back.
> I really wanted a Shimian because I liked the styling and tempered glass. Now I find out that the power adapters could potentially fry them and Crossovers are the only ones that come included with US adapters but none of those are tempered. And the ones that are tempered don't have the damn US adapters!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is starting to sound a little too risky for me. I can't really afford to waste money in indirect costs like returns and power bricks etc.


Obviously it's risky, you're buying an expensive piece of electronics on eBay from South Korea. What did you expect?


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> Oh yeah I realize that. It was just stated in dcsamsungmall's auction that is is included. Speaking of a $30 adapter, where and what have you found for $30? I thought they were like $120?


They should be in the 20's, the adapter that's 100+ had it's priced raised by the seller because they ran out of stock and he didn't want to recreate the listing so he just increased the price to something ridiculous.


----------



## Decipher

Just thought I would sign up and chime in with my experience thus far.

*Monitor*

3/26 - I ordered one of these Crossover monitors from dream-seller. I picked it because I like the looks much better than the other alternatives and the price was good.

3/27 - My order was marked as shipped, but I wasn't provided any tracking number. I read somewhere in the last 20 pages that some people were saying they weren't getting shipping numbers from DS or it was taking a long time to receive their monitors from him compared to others. Since I wasn't given a tracking number, I sent him a message asking where it was.

My message
Quote:


> Dear dream-seller,
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I see that you marked my item as shipped, but I can't seem to find a tracking number anywhere. Would you be able to provide me a tracking number for this item?
> 
> Thank you.


His response
Quote:


> Hi!
> Thanks for your message and for purchasing our product.
> We checked your transaction record and could see that your order was made on March 26th. When your transaction record was handed over to manufacturers, a shipment mark turned on. So your product will be shipped out by March 28th, and a tracking number and information will be updated by March 29th at the least. Would you wait and check it again by then, please?
> If you have any other question, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Thanks again. Have a great day!
> 
> - dream-seller


So for those ordering from dream-seller, it seems that the it shows shipping a day or two before it actually ships. Just wanted to post this for anyone who wants to buy from dream-seller in the future.

*Power*

This particular monitor doesn't come with an American plug, so I pick up this one here for $26. Hopefully it's the right one for these monitors (someone please let me know if it's incorrect).

After I receive the monitor I'll come back to let everyone know how it is


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Just thought I would sign up and chime in with my experience thus far.
> *Monitor*
> 3/26 - I ordered one of these Crossover monitors from dream-seller. I picked it because I like the looks much better than the other alternatives and the price was good.
> 3/27 - My order was marked as shipped, but I wasn't provided any tracking number. I read somewhere in the last 20 pages that some people were saying they weren't getting shipping numbers from DS or it was taking a long time to receive their monitors from him compared to others. Since I wasn't given a tracking number, I sent him a message asking where it was.
> My message
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Dear dream-seller,
> Hello,
> I see that you marked my item as shipped, but I can't seem to find a tracking number anywhere. Would you be able to provide me a tracking number for this item?
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> His response
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi!
> Thanks for your message and for purchasing our product.
> We checked your transaction record and could see that your order was made on March 26th. When your transaction record was handed over to manufacturers, a shipment mark turned on. So your product will be shipped out by March 28th, and a tracking number and information will be updated by March 29th at the least. Would you wait and check it again by then, please?
> If you have any other question, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Thanks again. Have a great day!
> - dream-seller
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So for those ordering from dream-seller, it seems that the it shows shipping a day or two before it actually ships. Just wanted to post this for anyone who wants to buy from dream-seller in the future.
> *Power*
> This particular monitor doesn't come with an American plug, so I pick up this one here for $26. Hopefully it's the right one for these monitors (someone please let me know if it's incorrect).
> After I receive the monitor I'll come back to let everyone know how it is
Click to expand...

I have had an identical experience (his message was even the same as we ordered on the same day, literally copied and pasted). No idea why he is marking as shipped when it's not shipped, seems kinda shady to me. I understand getting it packaged and labeled and marking it as shipped with the tracking but not dropping off the package right away, just marking it for the sake of marking it doesn't make sense to me.

EDIT:

Looks to me like the polarity is reversed on that? The original listing was positive on the left and negative on the right, the link you posted is positive on the right and negative on the left.


----------



## the_real_7

ordered mine from dcsamsung on Monday , just received this morning will open up soon as i get home and see if this monitor is better than my 2412 for gaming and such . . .


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I have had an identical experience (his message was even the same as we ordered on the same day, literally copied and pasted). No idea why he is marking as shipped when it's not shipped, seems kinda shady to me. I understand getting it packaged and labeled and marking it as shipped with the tracking but not dropping off the package right away, just marking it for the sake of marking it doesn't make sense to me.
> EDIT:
> Looks to me like the polarity is reversed on that? The original listing was positive on the left and negative on the right, the link you posted is positive on the right and negative on the left.


Oh, drats. I should have paid better attention. Welp, off to find the right one!


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Oh, drats. I should have paid better attention. Welp, off to find the right one!


Maybe wait for confirmation from another member? I'm not 100% positive, just basing it off the listings.


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Maybe wait for confirmation from another member? I'm not 100% positive, just basing it off the listings.


Sounds good. After going back to the OP and looking, it seems that I did indeed buy the incorrect one, so I'll hunt around for a non-$125 adapter while I wait for some others to respond. Thanks for the help


----------



## Stab

Since I live in the Netherlands (west Europe) I do not need to worry about the power right? It will just work here on the electricity network and not fry itself... Right?


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Sounds good. After going back to the OP and looking, it seems that I did indeed buy the incorrect one, so I'll hunt around for a non-$125 adapter while I wait for some others to respond. Thanks for the help


I really need to order this myself so I hope we find a confirmed working adapter sooner than later. I'll be very upset if I have a monitor I can't plug in.


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Sounds good. After going back to the OP and looking, it seems that I did indeed buy the incorrect one, so I'll hunt around for a non-$125 adapter while I wait for some others to respond. Thanks for the help


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Maybe wait for confirmation from another member? I'm not 100% positive, just basing it off the listings.


Hey I ordered from dream seller on the 27th, so we are very close together! I hope we get good monitors.

*edit* speaking of which. Since i too ordered from dream seller, I will have to buy the power plug. Hope someone posts it up soon. Although I did PM a member who said the power plug that came with his is working fine.


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I really need to order this myself so I hope we find a confirmed working adapter sooner than later. I'll be very upset if I have a monitor I can't plug in.


Same here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Hey I ordered from dream seller on the 27th, so we are very close together! I hope we get good monitors.
> *edit* speaking of which. Since i too ordered from dream seller, I will have to buy the power plug. Hope someone posts it up soon. Although I did PM a member who said the power plug that came with his is working fine.


I'm really hoping for prefect monitors too. I'm okay with using the in box power adapter until the others drop in price, I just don't want to be left with an awesome monitor sitting in it's box until who knows when.


----------



## jta98z

So what exactly is the concern with using the supplied adapter?


----------



## Piezo

Well I finally got a tracking number for my order from the 25th, if it got here by friday that would be really cool!


----------



## ChaosDimension85

I too ordered a Crossover LED-P model from red-cap and hoping for the best. I'm still a little confused on the adapter situation. I keep hearing that it should work fine with the supplied one but others say to get a different one with lower volts. So whats the verdict. BTW i ordered mine on the 23rd and got a tracking number about two days ago but nothing is being tracked lol.


----------



## Piezo

I ordered another adapter just in case, it's this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350. Once I get both the monitor and the adapter, I will try it out and let everyone know if it works. I don't have any kind of tool to read the power coming from it though... but I'll just try to see if it works and if it doesn't get hot.

$15 shipping charge on this adapter kinda hurt, but I was unable to find anything on canadian sites. Maybe I didn't look hard enough... idk.


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piezo*
> 
> I ordered another adapter just in case, it's this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350. Once I get both the monitor and the adapter, I will try it out and let everyone know if it works. I don't have any kind of tool to read the power coming from it though... but I'll just try to see if it works and if it doesn't get hot.
> $15 shipping charge on this adapter kinda hurt, but I was unable to find anything on canadian sites. Maybe I didn't look hard enough... idk.


That's the one I ordered and Jarobata pointed out that the polarity was reversed, so it may not work.
Quote:


> EDIT:
> 
> Looks to me like the polarity is reversed on that? The original listing was positive on the left and negative on the right, the link you posted is positive on the right and negative on the left.


----------



## Stab

Is it true that all of these monitors have at least 1 dead pixel? Cause the best panels are going to Apple and Dell right?
Do they select individual panels or do they test one of a batch and grade the whole batch?


----------



## crowat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stab*
> 
> Is it true that all of these monitors have at least 1 dead pixel? Cause the best panels are going to Apple and Dell right?
> Do they select individual panels or do they test one of a batch and grade the whole batch?


From what I could gather reading this thread, Yes. A significant portion of the Crossovers have some kind of pixel issues. Also, the manufacturers do not consider a dead pixel as something that makes the panel bad. Stuck pixels is what they are focusing on (red/green/blue).

The LG panels used in these monitors are A- quality. Not A+ . You do kinda get what you pay for.


----------



## EvilGnomes

yeah. from reading other topics. crossover also seems to have the best quality concerning pictures. but hey, a few pixels wont really bother me considering the size of the screen and the res..not like your going to notice them that much,


----------



## Piezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> That's the one I ordered and Jarobata pointed out that the polarity was reversed, so it may not work.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Looks to me like the polarity is reversed on that? The original listing was positive on the left and negative on the right, the link you posted is positive on the right and negative on the left.
Click to expand...

Hmm, well that's disappointing. I don't think there is really much I can do now since its already been shipped. If the standard brick that comes with it works fine, I may just use that... or purchase the other one that got jacked up to $123 once the price comes back down.


----------



## Strategist86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stab*
> 
> Is it true that all of these monitors have at least 1 dead pixel? Cause the best panels are going to Apple and Dell right?
> Do they select individual panels or do they test one of a batch and grade the whole batch?


That seems to be a common misunderstanding. The difference between an A+ and an A- quality panel is not the amount of stuck/dead pixels, but the color accuracy of the panel (when calibrated). A+ quality screens seem to calibrate to an average delta E of 0.2% to 0.4% dependent on the monitor... A- quality panels are unlikely to be calibrated that accurate, although the only calibration report I saw here of one of these Korean monitors was down to an average delta E of 0.55% I believe, which isn't all that bad at all either... I do not know if that is typical for these A- screens though or not...







Anyway, the A+ or A- screen quality has nothing to do with dead or stuck pixels.


----------



## RJ_985

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Looks to me like the polarity is reversed on that? The original listing was positive on the left and negative on the right, the link you posted is positive on the right and negative on the left.


On the $123.99 ebay Adapter ("For EFL-2202W") i do not see the key for a positional reference. I just see it as a circle?The other ebay listings give the flat side or the key notch. A confirmed pin out would be ideal for search of another adapter.

Here is the same model for $27.06 + shipping
http://laptopbattery-hp.com/ac-adapter-24v-5a-for-efl2202w-effinet-lcd-monitor-fy2405000-p-9178.html


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJ_985*
> 
> On the $123.99 ebay Adapter ("For EFL-2202W") i do not see the key for a positional reference. I just see it as a circle?The other ebay listings give the flat side or the key notch. A confirmed pin out would be ideal for search of another adapter.
> Here is the same model for $27.06 + shipping
> http://laptopbattery-hp.com/ac-adapter-24v-5a-for-efl2202w-effinet-lcd-monitor-fy2405000-p-9178.html


Ah, fantastic! Thank you for finding and sharing!


----------



## richierich1212

I keep refreshing the USPS tracking page. Damn I wish dcsamsungmall didn't raise the price of his crossover when I was ready to buy (bought from dream seller instead). Now my monitor is in customs or something.


----------



## Animanganime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJ_985*
> 
> On the $123.99 ebay Adapter ("For EFL-2202W") i do not see the key for a positional reference. I just see it as a circle?The other ebay listings give the flat side or the key notch. A confirmed pin out would be ideal for search of another adapter.
> Here is the same model for $27.06 + shipping
> http://laptopbattery-hp.com/ac-adapter-24v-5a-for-efl2202w-effinet-lcd-monitor-fy2405000-p-9178.html


Thanks for sharing, I went ahead and ordered one before I realized that this seller is probably somewhere in Asia, which means the package will probably
gets here 2 weeks later the earliest. Man I should have just gotten myself a transformer from Amazon or Ebay







, lesson learned.


----------



## RJ_985

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Animanganime*
> 
> Thanks for sharing, I went ahead and ordered one before I realized that this seller is probably somewhere in Asia, which means the package will probably
> gets here 2 weeks later the earliest. Man I should have just gotten myself a transformer from Amazon or Ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , lesson learned.


I agree but at least there is an option to a 130$ eBay purchase for those who want a proven adapter.


----------



## drka0tic

Looks like dcsamsung has dropped his price to $418 for the LED-P model. Very tempting.
Has anyone recently received one of his monitors with the now included 110V adapter?


----------



## the_real_7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Looks like dcsamsung has dropped his price to $418 for the LED-P model. Very tempting.
> Has anyone recently received one of his monitors with the now included 110V adapter?


I have received one yesterday , 1 dead pixel in middle and alil glow at bottom but in way better shape then my 360 dollar dell 2412 , , yes brick for 110 is included works well and cool


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_real_7*
> 
> I have received one yesterday , 1 dead pixel in middle and alil glow at bottom but in way better shape then my 360 dollar dell 2412 , , yes brick for 110 is included works well and cool


Too bad about the pixel in the center but at least it's all working.
Congrats!


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_real_7*
> 
> I have received one yesterday , 1 dead pixel in middle and alil glow at bottom but in way better shape then my 360 dollar dell 2412 , , yes brick for 110 is included works well and cool


Thanks for the info. That's great to hear.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richierich1212*
> 
> I keep refreshing the USPS tracking page. Damn I wish dcsamsungmall didn't raise the price of his crossover when I was ready to buy (bought from dream seller instead). Now my monitor is in customs or something.


Use This

Much better.


----------



## ChaosDimension85

So I got my Crossover today, monitor looks Solid build wise. Problem is I can't power up because I don't have the U.S. plug adapter. My question is would a samsonite travel converter/adapter plug kit work with the supplied adapter?


----------



## wheelsx45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosDimension85*
> 
> So I got my Crossover today, monitor looks Solid build wise. Problem is I can't power up because I don't have the U.S. plug adapter. My question is would a samsonite travel converter/adapter plug kit work with the supplied adapter?


You can just use a 3prong power cable, but im sure an adaptwr plug would fine. Which seller did you use?


----------



## Modz

Just got my Crossover in today, I ordered from DC, it shipped form Korea to Las Vegas in 2 days. The monitor is amazing, no stuck pixels or any deformities, also the ac adapter that he included for the US is working perfectly. Only thing I had to do is go to radio shack and get a new power cable since I didn't want to use a Korea to US adapter that isn't grounded.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modz*
> 
> Just got my Crossover in today, I ordered from DC, it shipped form Korea to Las Vegas in 2 days. The monitor is amazing, no stuck pixels or any deformities, also the ac adapter that he included for the US is working perfectly. Only thing I had to do is go to radio shack and get a new power cable since I didn't want to use a Korea to US adapter that isn't grounded.


I'm shocked how dependent I am on the one seller getting adapters back in stock.


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I'm shocked how dependent I am on the one seller getting adapters back in stock.


Did you see the link RJ posted? You can always snag one from there as it's the same as the $125 ones
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJ_985*
> 
> On the $123.99 ebay Adapter ("For EFL-2202W") i do not see the key for a positional reference. I just see it as a circle?The other ebay listings give the flat side or the key notch. A confirmed pin out would be ideal for search of another adapter.
> Here is the same model for $27.06 + shipping
> http://laptopbattery-hp.com/ac-adapter-24v-5a-for-efl2202w-effinet-lcd-monitor-fy2405000-p-9178.html


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Did you see the link RJ posted? You can always snag one from there as it's the same as the $125 ones


Ya, I just wasn't thrilled about buying from a place called laptopbattery-hp.com

EDIT: No reseller rating i can find, seems risky.

Has anyone mentioned why these brands use this ghetto 4 pin connector?


----------



## Modz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I'm shocked how dependent I am on the one seller getting adapters back in stock.


When i went to radio shack, they tried to sell me the Ac adapter also. If you have one locally, call them and see if they have it in stock.


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Ya, I just wasn't thrilled about buying from a place called laptopbattery-hp.com
> EDIT: No reseller rating i can find, seems risky.
> Has anyone mentioned why these brands use this ghetto 4 pin connector?


Fair enough. Just wanted to make sure you didn't pass it over


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Fair enough. Just wanted to make sure you didn't pass it over


Appreciate it, at this point I'm going to end up getting the transformer I was just making fun of


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modz*
> 
> When i went to radio shack, they tried to sell me the Ac adapter also. If you have one locally, call them and see if they have it in stock.


How do I explain "I need an AC adapter for my ghetto South Korean display" to a radio shack employee


----------



## wheelsx45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Modz*
> 
> Just got my Crossover in today, I ordered from DC, it shipped form Korea to Las Vegas in 2 days. The monitor is amazing, no stuck pixels or any deformities, also the ac adapter that he included for the US is working perfectly. Only thing I had to do is go to radio shack and get a new power cable since I didn't want to use a Korea to US adapter that isn't grounded.


Our pkg must have been on the same aircraft, 2 days Korea to Phoenix


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> *2.* Is this similar to the Yamasaki Catleap, Achieva Shimian, and PCBank 3View I keep hear about?
> Yes, they all use the same LG S-IPS 8-bit LED panel. The difference is the circuity that drives the monitor. However, a review for PCBank 3View showed it have a *slightly lower input lag* than the rest.


This is still wrong, the PCBank has slightly faster pixel response times than the other units.

I made an unboxing video.


----------



## J Macker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/370289111888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636f37350
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-AC-power-adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-NEW-/350277873647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518e302fef
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/350369931415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193ace097
> Those are the exact same ones as the ones listed for over $100 right? They're all 24v 5A 120W and the details say it is 4pin as well as the pics but if something does ship that's different from the listing you could always just file a SNAD with ebay.


I bought one of the power adapters for the JVC LT-23X576 as listed.

It does NOT work with the Crossover LCD. When the brick is plugged into power and no LCD, the green light on the brick comes on.
When the brick is plugged into both power & LCD, there is no green light and the LCD will NOT turn on.

Now I have to return it.


----------



## J Macker

*double post*

Please delete


----------



## EvilGnomes

Ordered my crossover 27" Pivot model from dcsamsung. Should be here By april 5th. but by the looks of it, it may be here by Monday but i doubt it,.


----------



## Caustin

I recently received my Crossover LED-P and I love it. It came in perfect working condition and the AC adapter that mine came with says 110-240 and has worked fine so far.

There is one downfall: I have a small cluster of 4 stuck green pixels, has anyone had any luck getting rid of their stuck pixels? I tried all the tricks I could find online and so far, none have worked. If anyone has any advice, it would be nice to hear it.

Also, I bought the monitor for around $420 from dcsamsungmall and the shipping was extremely fast just as everyone has reported.

I was wondering if anyone wanted to buy one for a cheaper price than from ebay, I would be willing to sell mine for a decent price because of the stuck pixels. Would anyone be interested?


----------



## Jarobata

Caved and bought the transformer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caustin*
> 
> I recently received my Crossover LED-P and I love it. It came in perfect working condition and the AC adapter that mine came with says 110-240 and has worked fine so far.
> There is one downfall: I have a small cluster of 4 stuck green pixels, has anyone had any luck getting rid of their stuck pixels? I tried all the tricks I could find online and so far, none have worked. If anyone has any advice, it would be nice to hear it.
> Also, I bought the monitor for around $420 from dcsamsungmall and the shipping was extremely fast just as everyone has reported.
> I was wondering if anyone wanted to buy one for a cheaper price than from ebay, I would be willing to sell mine for a decent price because of the stuck pixels. Would anyone be interested?


At that start of your post I was all excited for you and by the end I felt bad for you. Sorry man, 4 in a cluster is rough.


----------



## ChaosDimension85

_Ok so now that I've gotten my monitor to work let me elaborate on my previous post about my experience with the Crossover LED-P.

So I ordered from red-cap on March 23rd, got tracking info from EMS but never displayed anything. I thought I wouldn't receive my monitor til next week but to my surprise got it this morning via USPS, btw I'm in Cali.

I got the 230V power brick adapter and was worried at first but just went ahead and bought a grounded power cable from RadioShack and hooked up my monitor, crossed my fingers and witnessed my monitor turn on with a gorgeous screen. Truly have to see to believe. Colors and quality are on par with the Mac displays if not better. Absolutely no stuck pixels. I was very lucky to receive a flawless monitor. Did some quick web browsing and quick Diablo 3 beta run for early testing. I just can't believe I got this monitor for the price I paid, considered a steal in my books.

I was starting to worry at first after hearing about so many stuck pixels but I guess it truly is a hit or miss. Good luck to whoever keeps purchasing these monitors, they truly rock!_


----------



## Caustin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Caved and bought the transformer
> At that start of your post I was all excited for you and by the end I felt bad for you. Sorry man, 4 in a cluster is rough.


Yea, it sucks but I knew the risk I was taking and maybe someone will buy it off of me for cheap. Some people don't really mind a few stuck pixels, I do a little bit but if I don't sell it i'm sure it will be like all other things I get that aren't perfect; I'll learn how to ignore it.


----------



## akg102

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caustin*
> 
> I recently received my Crossover LED-P and I love it. It came in perfect working condition and the AC adapter that mine came with says 110-240 and has worked fine so far.
> There is one downfall: I have a small cluster of 4 stuck green pixels, has anyone had any luck getting rid of their stuck pixels? I tried all the tricks I could find online and so far, none have worked. If anyone has any advice, it would be nice to hear it.
> Also, I bought the monitor for around $420 from dcsamsungmall and the shipping was extremely fast just as everyone has reported.
> I was wondering if anyone wanted to buy one for a cheaper price than from ebay, I would be willing to sell mine for a decent price because of the stuck pixels. Would anyone be interested?


I have 1 stuck green pixel in the 1st quadrant of the monitor. Tried software solutions and physical solutions....nothing so far.


----------



## ChaosDimension85

So has anyone messed with the brightness settings? I feel like its too bright on first power up. Can you also play with the color settings on these monitors? I scared of messing up my current set up, which is factory of course.


----------



## Piezo

For the colours you should be able to change them in nvidia control panel or amd catalyst control center.

I'm also having a weird problem with the tracking info on my order... it says Final Delivery in red letters but I never received anything yet. The post office it went to is "대전유성 " which seems to be a place called Daejeon in Korea but it shows a recipient name in korean and the final delivery is in red so that has me worried. I'm hoping it's nothing to be worried about but I've never tracked any packages through EMS before. It could be that by final delivery, they mean it will come directly to me from this location but the recipient name part has me worried.

I tracked it through service.epost.go.kr, ebay tracking isn't showing anything... oh and I ordered from red-cap.


----------



## EvilGnomes

that was pretty quick. he shipped it within an hour. should be here by Wednesday according to fedex. I live in wa, so i may expect it as soon as monday..hopefully!

ordered from DCSamsung


----------



## MenacingTuba




----------



## rkl1985

Hey guys, finally thinking about jumping on one of these Korean IPS monitors and so far I think the Crossover is the nicest looking and it seems to have a better stand than the Catleaps, my question is should I get the portrait version or not? I do not plan to use it in portrait..... is the non portrait stand more stable since it does not have height adjustment?

I am thinking I would be happy with the non P model but don't want the monitor to be too low to the desktop... the panel in my current monitor is about 4 inches (to the actual panel, not the bezel) off the desk surface which is perfect for me, how does this compare to these 2 stands? If it's lower I could get the P model and raise it to a correct height.

Thinking I am gonna order from DCSamsungmall since they advertise the correct US power supply setup, costs more though.. lol


----------



## ChaosDimension85

@ Piezo

Trust me the EMS shipping tracking info will never show up. I for instance was expecting the monitor some time next week and BAM! right at my doorstep. You'll get it sooner rather than later.


----------



## Piezo

Thanks ChaosDimension85, I'll take your word for it then on the shipping. I'm just getting impatient waiting for it to get here haha so I'm freakin out. If it got delivered tomorrow that would be freakin awesome!

@rkl1985

I was in the exact same situation as you before I ordered mine. I had a look at the other ones and since none of them right now can overclock, I chose to go with the Crossover because it looked the best to me. I figured I wouldn't use the stand so I chose to go with the fixed stand version and from what I can tell, either model are better built than the catleap's.

Once I get mine (fixed stand version) I'll make sure to measure the height from my desk to the bezel and from my desk to the the actual panel.

I've heard great things about DCSamsungmall, they are supposed to have very good customer service. They also seem to shipping a us adapter with them too. I myself ordered from red-cap because he was the next best rated seller that offered the ability to offer your own price. I snagged mine for $375 and I ordered on the 25th. My order was shipped as of yesterday so I'm hoping that it gets here tomorrow, but worst case scenario I get it next week. With red-cap he doesn't give you a us adapter but it seems that just by replacing the including power cable, the monitor works fine from the included adapter. I was worried so I ordered myself an adapter off ebay but I didn't make sure the pin polarity would work with this monitor... I found out yesterday from users on here that the one I got does not work. So I wasted about $40 on that... but it was a lesson learned I guess.


----------



## rkl1985

Well I will hold off on ordering one tonight, hopefully you get yours in the morn! I have a TN Samsung monitor, 25" and 1080p, its a great newer model monitor but i've wanted in on this IPS goodness for a while now, and a 27" is the sweetspot after seeing my brothers 27" version of my Samsung, but deff want the higher res, too big for 1080p.

I also agree the Crossovers look and seem to be the best quality stand and build-wise, the Catleaps may be more popular but that's because they are all hoping to score an overclocker which is not gonna happen currently. My reason for not "Catleaping" is just by looking at the pics that stand holds the monitor wayyyyyyy higher than the Crossover, not to mention my current panel, which would prolly be too high, if anything mine could be a bit higher but as long as it's close to 4-5" to the actual panel that seems to be about right.

Best case the fixed height Crossover is the right height and i can save a few bucks and maybe even have a more sturdy stand, worst case I get the P and have a still good stand that I can raise up to whatever I need. Please take some measurements for me and if possible some pics! I would be greatful! Hoepfully I don't give in and order before you get yours! lol


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caustin*
> 
> Yea, it sucks but I knew the risk I was taking and maybe someone will buy it off of me for cheap. Some people don't really mind a few stuck pixels, I do a little bit but if I don't sell it i'm sure it will be like all other things I get that aren't perfect; I'll learn how to ignore it.


I'd like to see some pics and a price.


----------



## DragonCypher

*double post 'cause internet is stupid*


----------



## DragonCypher

Just accepted a counter offer of $385/Panel from red-cap for 3 of these..

So there goes my birthday money.
Hopefully doesn't take too long to arrive.


----------



## fullhd99

I plan to buy one unit of this monitor
I want to ask how do I set up color temperature 6500K,9300K or sRGB because this monitor does not have OSD
while Brightness can adjust by monitor button,Contrast via Nvidia/AMD control panel


----------



## Odilepont

Some info copied from TA PLANET's http://www.ebay.com/itm/320878429739
Quote:


> Only for PC monitor (one DVI-D port)
> By-Pass model (No Ad board in monitor - Monitor use graphic card resource)
> Up 5 dead pixels are normal. These are not the reason of return or compensate. (LG A- Level Pannel)
> PC graphic board should surport DVI-D(Dual link DVI)
> On-board graphic card can not support QHD.
> PC graphic card should surport QHD(2560x1440)
> Default AC adapter is for 220V


It says 220V even though I've seen pictures & videos say 230V on here, the Netherlands uses 230V so I'm hoping this is a typo from the seller.
I tried sending him a message asking but I wasn't able to:
Quote:


> Unfortunately, due to the high volume of messages this seller receives, they are unable to respond to your specific question right now.


So if someone could reassure me on here that would be nice.


----------



## radium69

Long time watcher here, I jumped the gun and ordered TWO of these babies!
Current monitor = NONE

The reason for me to buy one is the glossy panel. I can't stand the AG coatings anymore...
I've used a Dell 2412m IPS , iiyama x2472HD, Acer H242bmid and an Acer Ferrari 21" Glossy. (Also P series from acer.)
Heres hoping on a non dead pixel or stuck pixel monitor!
It's really hard to find a descent IPS panel with glossy. And most prices are outrageous anyhow. (22" IPS 250 euro, 24" IPS 400+)
I really like the attitude of the company, no bull****, just a screen with a DVI output. Perfect. Also hoping on good power adapters.

Will report back!


----------



## Caustin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theonedub*
> 
> I'd like to see some pics and a price.


I've been meaning to get some up here but I can't find my camera and my Evo is having a hard time getting a good shot of the stuck pixels. I will continue the search for my camera today.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piezo*
> 
> Once I get mine (fixed stand version) I'll make sure to measure the height from my desk to the bezel and from my desk to the the actual panel.


17 & 1/4th Inch high from desk to top of bezel
Just over 16 & 1/2th Inch from desk to top of screen itself
3 & 1/2th Inch from desk to bottom of screen itself
2 & 1/4th Inch from desk to bottom of bezel


----------



## KaRLiToS

What does it means if my packages are stuck in customs with this message : Customs retention reason : Awaiting presentation to customs commissioner
I live in Canada and Red-Cap sent the crossovers??


----------



## kazenagi

Enter your tracking number into the Canada Post site and tell us what it says, strange cause my Crossovers breezed through customs..


----------



## Piezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> 17 & 1/4th Inch high from desk to top of bezel
> Just over 16 & 1/2th Inch from desk to top of screen itself
> 3 & 1/2th Inch from desk to bottom of screen itself
> 2 & 1/4th Inch from desk to bottom of bezel


You're a great man, thanks for that!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odilepont*
> 
> Some info copied from TA PLANET's http://www.ebay.com/itm/320878429739
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Only for PC monitor (one DVI-D port)
> By-Pass model (No Ad board in monitor - Monitor use graphic card resource)
> Up 5 dead pixels are normal. These are not the reason of return or compensate. (LG A- Level Pannel)
> PC graphic board should surport DVI-D(Dual link DVI)
> On-board graphic card can not support QHD.
> PC graphic card should surport QHD(2560x1440)
> Default AC adapter is for 220V
> 
> 
> 
> It says 220V even though I've seen pictures & videos say 230V on here, the Netherlands uses 230V so I'm hoping this is a typo from the seller.
> I tried sending him a message asking but I wasn't able to:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, due to the high volume of messages this seller receives, they are unable to respond to your specific question right now.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So if someone could reassure me on here that would be nice.
Click to expand...

While I can't say for sure about what adapter it comes with (haven't received mine yet and ordered from different seller), I think you should try ordering from a different seller. None of the popular sellers I've messaged have ever sent me something saying they couldn't reply because of high volume. That doesn't sound like a seller you want to deal with anyway. I think that you should try contacting all the other sellers that you wouldn't mind buying from, that way you can know for sure. Doesn't take too long to send out a few messages anyway, plus it gives you some feedback to how their customer service is, in regards to how quick they can answer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullhd99*
> 
> I plan to buy one unit of this monitor
> I want to ask how do I set up color temperature 6500K,9300K or sRGB because this monitor does not have OSD
> while Brightness can adjust by monitor button,Contrast via Nvidia/AMD control panel


I'd like to know this too. As of right now, I think the only way to do it with an actual colorimeter but I hope I'm wrong on that. I don't need to have the most accurate colours but I'd like to be able to change colour temperature without having to spend extra money.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Canada Post Web site

2012/03/30 09:09 MISSISSAUGA International item arrived in Canada and will be reviewed by Customs

2012/03/28 22:46 International item has left the origin country and is en route to Canada

2012/03/28 18:36 International item mailed in origin country


----------



## kazenagi

2012/03/22 23:52 MISSISSAUGA Item processed at postal facility
22:19 MISSISSAUGA Item was released by Customs and is now with Canada Post for processing
22:19 MISSISSAUGA International item arrived in Canada and will be reviewed by Customs

Mine didn't even need to get reviewed by customs but they're pretty much random sometimes, I wouldn't worry about it too much since these monitors have no problem getting across border, a few days ago I had a package from the US stuck in customs for a week though. Usually takes a day or two for stuff to get past customs normally so don't sweat.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Thanks bud


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> 2012/03/22 23:52 MISSISSAUGA Item processed at postal facility
> 22:19 MISSISSAUGA Item was released by Customs and is now with Canada Post for processing
> 22:19 MISSISSAUGA International item arrived in Canada and will be reviewed by Customs
> Mine didn't even need to get reviewed by customs but they're pretty much random sometimes, I wouldn't worry about it too much since these monitors have no problem getting across border, a few days ago I had a package from the US stuck in customs for a week though. Usually takes a day or two for stuff to get past customs normally so don't sweat.


I got my Catleap customs free in Ottawa.


----------



## eneerge

Ordered and paid on March 15. Shipped on the 21st. Has been stuck in customs since Friday March 23. Has not moved an inch. Not sure why it's taking so long. It's probably going to arrive in pieces...


----------



## fullhd99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piezo*
> 
> I'd like to know this too. As of right now, I think the only way to do it with an actual colorimeter but I hope I'm wrong on that. I don't need to have the most accurate colours but I'd like to be able to change colour temperature without having to spend extra money.


I think the color is also very important because each color temperature,have different characters such as 9300K, 6500K, sRGB or Custom
I also do not want to waste money to buy color calibration tool,I hope this forum can anybody explain how to change the color temperature
monitor brands such as 27" HP or Apple cinema displays do not have OSD features


----------



## richierich1212

I just unpacked my crossover and set it up on my desk. Holy [email protected]#[email protected]#% the screen is amazing! I also have an HP ZR24W and this one is as good or better. Now to test the pixels....

So I ordered my crossover LED-P from dreamseller last friday 3/23. He didn't ship out until Monday 3/26. It finally arrived today 3/30. All that waiting was tough but well worth it. Because it looks like I have a flawless monitor. YEAHHHHHHHHHH BOYYYYYYYYYYY.

If you're debating between the Catleap and a crossover, I would recommend the Crossover because of the bezel/design and stand. Well worth the extra cost.


----------



## Nano5656

Okay, I want one of these to wall mount (so not p version) so badd. But it's so iffttttfffy!


----------



## Wubble

So is this the best place to buy one of these CrossOver's right now? Or is there a better place.


----------



## wsoul1

$385.90

$385.80

Price Wars!


----------



## Piezo

Yea price seems to be coming down. With red-cap though, you can make him an offer so you can actually get it for even cheaper! I got mine for $375 from him, just waiting for it to ship to me. Should be here next week... he said to me that he'll look into it for me.


----------



## hv43082

Got my 2nd and 3rd Crossover LED-P yesterday from Samsung_Korea seller. I paid for it Tuesday morning and delivered to Southern CA Thursday afternoon. Amazing. He shipped in plain box with less packing than DCSamsungMall but both monitors are working just fine. All 3 of my power bricks are 230V rated but worked fine with regular power cable. My new battle station is here.


----------



## Taget

Looks like tempered glass versions are out now. Non-pivot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-Tempered-Glass-27-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-PC-Monitor-/220987729722?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3373e5273a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-2560X1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-Tempered-Glass-/150784028067?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231b6dada3


----------



## Nano5656

What does tempered glass do again? Just when it breaks it doesn't shatter right? That doesnt sound worth 40$ to me :\


----------



## illli

tempered glass is just for aesthetic quality. thats basically it


----------



## Nano5656

It does look better? Where can I see the difference at?


----------



## illli

i'm sure you'd notice a difference but not sure $40 is worth it. going by the other brands/discussions, people say it looks like a tablet. one big, flat, glossy surface. but since this is a new model, not sure how they implemented it. need a guinea pig to test one out








also, most people reported problems with their tempered glass models. mainly dust underneath the glass. this was with the other brands, but who knows, maybe the quality control is better with these.
i'd personally not get one b/c it just adds another level of defect risk.


----------



## BanDeodorant

Anyone have the link to Red-Cap's Crossover LED-P listing? Just the normal one without any glass or what have you.

Thanks!


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BanDeodorant*
> 
> Anyone have the link to Red-Cap's Crossover LED-P listing? Just the normal one without any glass or what have you.
> Thanks!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/220976981479?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I bought 3 from him, suppose to receive them next monday.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BanDeodorant*
> 
> Anyone have the link to Red-Cap's Crossover LED-P listing? Just the normal one without any glass or what have you.
> Thanks!


FYI, I have all of the listings in the second post.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-monitor-club#post_16775722


----------



## jta98z

Quick questions. If you search eBay for a 220v to 110v adapter, it has all these little travel adapter plugs for like $3 that say they convert 220v down to 110v. Would these not work?


----------



## MenacingTuba

I can confirm the Crossover works @720p with both the PS3 and 360. Not sure about which Reference Level to use yet on the xbox 360 but I will figure it out.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> Quick questions. If you search eBay for a 220v to 110v adapter, it has all these little travel adapter plugs for like $3 that say they convert 220v down to 110v. Would these not work?


It's not the same thing sadly. Those are merely adapters. Also they state in the listing that they're not transformers (converting from 220v to 110v).


----------



## Druidje

Guys.. my Crossover has been on 'Airrival at Destination Airport' (Amsterdam) for 3 days already.

What's going on? ;_;


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I can confirm the Crossover works @720p with both the PS3 and 360. Not sure about which Reference Level to use yet on the xbox 360 but I will figure it out.


How would you get it to work at 1080p?


----------



## MenacingTuba

You would buy a different monitor.


----------



## xedni

Bit the bullet and bought a LED-P.

Cant wait!

Also, some of us may have been lucky and got an ebay coupon, but I had a coupon for 10% off an electronics item. Used it on the led-p to knock the price down to the 360s range.


----------



## Stab

Customs maybe? Sounds like it.

Please update what happens because I am from the Netherlands myself and considering ordering a monitor









Thanks.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Ok so I tried to "fix," the colours via the Nvidia Control Panel and it totally screws with the grey scale so I don't really recommend using it. I couldn't achieve 6500k without ending up with a massive green dominance and messing up the greys.

The grey scale deviation average exceeded 21 when using the Nvidia Control Panel adjustments and verifying them with basICColour 5. The maximum deviation is supposed to be <1.5.

I took some pictures of the Immortals blu-ray on my PS3 @720p with the same camera settings

Asus Lights Off








Crossover Lights Off








Samsung S27A850d Lights Off









Since the Samsung has a higher default gamma it exhibits minor black crush. The Asus VG236H is the most accurate, despite being a TN.

I also tried calibrating my Crossover with i1 Match which comes with the i1 display pro and it could not correct the colour temperature to 6500k from 8600k. I always ended up with 5900k=to warm and red/orangish.

The main problem is the blue deviation. Green is perfect according to i1 Match and red is close









basICColor 5 pics up slightly higher deviations.









basICColor 5 costs 100 euros and was needed to properly profile the Crossover.









From Left to Right: Crossover 27Q LED-P, Asus VG236H, Samsung S27A850D









Over-Exposed to highlight issues









Crossover









Asus









Samsung. The bit on the right is PLS glow, not light bleeding.









Here is a Video showing the Crossover with before/after calibration.


----------



## Druidje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Ok so I tried to "fix," the colours via the Nvidia Control Panel and it totally screws with the grey scale so I don't really recommend using it. I couldn't achieve 6500k without ending up with a massive green dominance and messing up the greys.
> The grey scale deviation average exceeded 21 when using the Nvidia Control Panel adjustments and verifying them with basICColour 5. The maximum deviation is supposed to be <1.5.


Hey, could you tell me how you calibrated it? I definitely want to do this when I receive mine.


----------



## braveblade

Wow, Asus VG236H beats Crossover! Is Asus VG236H that good? If I always look at the center of the screen, will TN and IPS still make a difference?


----------



## Druidje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stab*
> 
> Customs maybe? Sounds like it.
> Please update what happens because I am from the Netherlands myself and considering ordering a monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Don't worry, I will









I'll post any updates. It's still in customs right now.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Druidje*
> 
> Hey, could you tell me how you calibrated it? I definitely want to do this when I receive mine.


I used this:

http://www.xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?region=98&lang=en&id=1454&catid=109&action=overview

You can also buy the cheaper version, the colurmunkie

I use basiCColour 5 which is the profiling software: http://www.basiccolor.de/basiccolor-display-5-en/

The software that comes with the colorimeter (i1 Match) is not that great, and like mentioned above it could not properly calibrate the display.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Wow, Asus VG236H beats Crossover! Is Asus VG236H that good? If I always look at the center of the screen, will TN and IPS still make a difference?


The Asus is really good for a TN. The main difference comes from the lack of gamma shift and wide viewing angles IPS panels have but they also glow. For straight up gaming a 120hz TN is the way to go. Also the Asus is the most widely reviewed 120hz display and it always comes with accurate colours out of the box. You can read my review here:

http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/gadgetry-electronics-discussion/9014-asus-vg236h-120hz-3d-monitor-review.html


----------



## fullhd99

what is already there ever try this software http://www.entechtaiwan.com/lib/softmccs.shtm
This software can change setting color/color temperature








I do not know whether this compatible for crossover LCD
i try for HP 24" its working


----------



## dante020

I'm looking into getting a monitor calibration tool but I have no idea where to start. Any suggestions for a decently priced unit that will work well?


----------



## Sammael7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I used this:
> http://www.xritephoto.com/ph_product_overview.aspx?region=98&lang=en&id=1454&catid=109&action=overview
> You can also buy the cheaper version, the colurmunkie
> I use basiCColour 5 which is the profiling software: http://www.basiccolor.de/basiccolor-display-5-en/
> The software that comes with the colorimeter (i1 Match) is not that great, and like mentioned above it could not properly calibrate the display.
> The Asus is really good for a TN. The main difference comes from the lack of gamma shift and wide viewing angles IPS panels have but they also glow. For straight up gaming a 120hz TN is the way to go. Also the Asus is the most widely reviewed 120hz display and it always comes with accurate colours out of the box. You can read my review here:
> http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/gadgetry-electronics-discussion/9014-asus-vg236h-120hz-3d-monitor-review.html


There are plenty of good quality TN panels like the Asus might be, but it's 1080p. One of the PRIMARY reasons for the the excitement over these monitors is 2560x1440p resolutions. And there, the TN's inferior vertical viewing angles become a problem.

If all people were worried about was having the best possible color fidelity, then a less expensive tn could do, but if you want higher res, you kind of NEED the ips panels now unless they started making TN's that don't exhibit the color/brightness shifts with vertical viewing angles.

Given that focus, what do you think people would prefer?

A. 2560x1440p ips panel with near perfect color for 800 dollars plus?
B. 1080p TN panel with near perfect color for sub 300?
C. 2560x1440p ips panel with _slightly_ shifted color for less than 400 dollars?

for many people, the answer is C C C C C C C C C C CC CC CC CC CC CCC CC C C C

Why? why would anyone suffer the lack of perfection? They don't care, as long as it's not crazy off and looks clear and crisp and stunning (which it does, your video, flaws and all show the monitor to look amazing to the eye) people will like it.

C is the better option unless you don't mind dropping near 1k for a screen, and if you don't mind that, then have it all.


----------



## Odilepont

I'll put it next to some of my other monitors & televisions and calibrate it as good as my eyes and the catalyst control center will let me.
I'm not paying another hundred+ euros for a colorimeter, if I would do that I might as well wait a while longer and get the u2711 for 550 euros.


----------



## giecsar

Help! My crossover just arrived but it doesn't work! When I turn it on the front led turns blue for a moment, then the screens flashes white for a microsecond and then the led turns red!









What to do??!?!

EDIT: Yes, I am using the included cables. No, I do not need another brick or step down transformer cause I live in Europe.


----------



## ACallander

I'm debating on ordering a crossover but I've had my eye on the Samsung SA27850D monitor. You think this one out performs the Samsung for half the price?


----------



## Jarobata

Mine has been sitting in customs since Saturday morning. I was hoping I would get it today but I lose confidence with every hour the status remains unchanged.


----------



## drka0tic

It would be great to have some basic troubleshooting steps included in the OP. I've ordered three LED-Ps from dcsamsungmall and am hoping for the best. They're supposed to come with the 120V adapter so I don't expect to have power issues, but I'm not sure if there are any other minor issues I may come across.


----------



## Stab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Help! My crossover just arrived but it doesn't work! When I turn it on the front led turns blue for a moment, then the screens flashes white for a microsecond and then the led turns red!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do??!?!
> EDIT: Yes, I am using the included cables. No, I do not need another brick or step down transformer cause I live in Europe.


I dont know man... Sure sounds like a power problem, but maybe something is not right within the monitor itself.
Who was your seller? I would contact him about it!


----------



## fullhd99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Help! My crossover just arrived but it doesn't work! When I turn it on the front led turns blue for a moment, then the screens flashes white for a microsecond and then the led turns red!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do??!?!
> EDIT: Yes, I am using the included cables. No, I do not need another brick or step down transformer cause I live in Europe.


problem when the light from blue to red "NO SIGNAL"
maybe problem in your video card or try another computer/laptop


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Help! My crossover just arrived but it doesn't work! When I turn it on the front led turns blue for a moment, then the screens flashes white for a microsecond and then the led turns red!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do??!?!
> EDIT: Yes, I am using the included cables. No, I do not need another brick or step down transformer cause I live in Europe.


Make sure your computer is turned off and then turn on the monitor followed by turning on your computer.


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stab*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Help! My crossover just arrived but it doesn't work! When I turn it on the front led turns blue for a moment, then the screens flashes white for a microsecond and then the led turns red!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do??!?!
> EDIT: Yes, I am using the included cables. No, I do not need another brick or step down transformer cause I live in Europe.
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know man... Sure sounds like a power problem, but maybe something is not right within the monitor itself.
> Who was your seller? I would contact him about it!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullhd99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Help! My crossover just arrived but it doesn't work! When I turn it on the front led turns blue for a moment, then the screens flashes white for a microsecond and then the led turns red!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do??!?!
> EDIT: Yes, I am using the included cables. No, I do not need another brick or step down transformer cause I live in Europe.
> 
> 
> 
> problem when the light from blue to red "NO SIGNAL"
> maybe problem in your video card or try another computer/laptop
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Help! My crossover just arrived but it doesn't work! When I turn it on the front led turns blue for a moment, then the screens flashes white for a microsecond and then the led turns red!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to do??!?!
> EDIT: Yes, I am using the included cables. No, I do not need another brick or step down transformer cause I live in Europe.
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure your computer is turned off and then turn on the monitor followed by turning on your computer.
Click to expand...

Thanks everyone! I've hooked it up to my brother's PC and it works perfectly! Moreover it's flawless!!! Very pleased








It seems I cannot for some reason configure my GPU properly. I have the card in my sig, and it has 4 DP ports + 2 DVI ports, one of which is dual link. Then there is a litttle switch than switches between single link and dual link. I flipped it (and rebooted too) but it doesn't work!


----------



## ACallander

So which would you choose? The Samsung or the Crossover?

I've had my eye set on the samsung but now that the crossover is bad ass and half the price.. which would you recommend?


----------



## giecsar

UPDATE: rebooted my PC a few times more, then disconnected and reconnected the cable a few times more and now it works!

Wow, such an incredible monitor! Colors are amazing, great viewing angles and everything... well worth the price!! Very, very pleased.









Now if you'll excuse while I go play a few sick games


----------



## Druidje

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Thanks everyone! I've hooked it up to my brother's PC and it works perfectly! Moreover it's flawless!!! Very pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems I cannot for some reason configure my GPU properly. I have the card in my sig, and it has 4 DP ports + 2 DVI ports, one of which is dual link. Then there is a litttle switch than switches between single link and dual link. I flipped it (and rebooted too) but it doesn't work!


Yeah, there seem to be lots and lots of problem with these monitors and the 6950 for some reason.

Does anyone know if there problems occur with a 6970 too?


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> So which would you choose? The Samsung or the Crossover?
> 
> I've had my eye set on the samsung but now that the crossover is bad ass and half the price.. which would you recommend?


Get the crossover man, you will NOT regret it!


----------



## Stab

Anyone using this with a HD 6870 and can confirm its all working properly?
And I couldnt find anything about the input lag... Is there any?


----------



## EvilGnomes

well the monitor got in right now. as far as i can tell No dead/stuck pixels! amazing quality!


----------



## locc

Hey, I'm trying to join the Crossover owners club as well and will post my exp when it arrives. Ordered mine 29th march from red-cap but still no info about shipping.. unusual? Hope he finds some time to ship it soon as it has long way to Finland


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> So which would you choose? The Samsung or the Crossover?
> I've had my eye set on the samsung but now that the crossover is bad ass and half the price.. which would you recommend?


I assume your questions is directed at me. If you plan to hook up consoles and want to be able to adjust the colours get the Samsung, as long as it is from a place with a hassle free return/exchange policy. The 850D has a little over 1 frame of input lag like the IPS panels with extra inputs. If your primary concern is gaming, get the Crossover. If you are coming from a display with known input lag (google it) and want the extra features and to game, get the Samsung.

I made another video




I used the SMTTool 2.0 and got 0-8ms difference in a bunch of pictures compared with my Asus which has 2-3ms vs a CRT. The most common value was between 1-5ms. I assume the input lag is around 5-8ms like the HP ZR2740W (5ms) which was tested by PRAD.de. I feel 0 difference between the Asus and Crossover.


----------



## Jarobata

Anyone have their package go through Chicago customs? If so, how long did it take?


----------



## ShinyFalcon

Just received my Crossover LED with pivot. One green pixel about 5.5" down and 4" from the left, but it doesn't bother me. It's funny how all stuck pixels I get with LCDs are green... Gamma is around 2.3 uncalibrated, and has a slight red tint to it. Slightly better out of the box than my uncalibrated EA231WMi, which I had to lower down red down to 50s to get rid of the red tint. Some backlight bleed at the bottom right corner Coming from an 1080p screen, everything is slightly tinier, which might not be a good thing for me without glasses, because I don't like wearing glasses with headphones. Overall I'm happy and satisfied, but we'll see if that changes later on (eyestrain, etc).

There's a thumbscrew at the back of the base, and I'm not sure what it does, but I'm assuming it's for height adjustment?

Stab, I am using an XFX HD 6870 and I can confirm that it's working. I have not restarted to check if I can see BIOS, though.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShinyFalcon*
> 
> Just received my Crossover LED with pivot. One green pixel about 5.5" down and 4" from the left, but it doesn't bother me. It's funny how all stuck pixels I get with LCDs are green... Gamma is around 2.3 uncalibrated, and has a slight red tint to it. Slightly better out of the box than my uncalibrated EA231WMi, which I had to lower down red down to 50s to get rid of the red tint. Some backlight bleed at the bottom right corner Coming from an 1080p screen, everything is slightly tinier, which might not be a good thing for me without glasses, because I don't like wearing glasses with headphones. Overall I'm happy and satisfied, but we'll see if that changes later on (eyestrain, etc).
> There's a thumbscrew at the back of the base, and I'm not sure what it does, but I'm assuming it's for height adjustment?
> Stab, I am using an XFX HD 6870 and I can confirm that it's working. I have not restarted to check if I can see BIOS, though.


I believe it's for changing to portrait position (which this monitor doesn't do properly). Check the unboxing video a few pages back.


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilGnomes*
> 
> well the monitor got in right now. as far as i can tell No dead/stuck pixels! amazing quality!


who did you order from?


----------



## DragonCypher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locc*
> 
> Hey, I'm trying to join the Crossover owners club as well and will post my exp when it arrives. Ordered mine 29th march from red-cap but still no info about shipping.. unusual? Hope he finds some time to ship it soon as it has long way to Finland


Same here, it might have something to do with the weekend but hopefully wont take much longer.

Considering the main picture for his listing says 3-5day shipping worldwide and it's almost taking that long to mark as posted..


----------



## jincuteguy

Hi guys, Im new here and I've been reading these threads and wanting to buy one of these 27". However, I want the one with the tempered glass one but without speakers cause i dont need the speakers. So for Crossover ones, which one has the tempered glass? Do you have the link? Cause all I see are CrossOver 27Q LED-P, but then how do you know if it has tempered glass or not?


----------



## Strategist86

Check the title/description...


★New CROSSOVER 27Q LED 2560X1440 QHD DVI-D Dual S-IPS 27" Monitor+Tempered Glass

New CROSSOVER 27Q LED + Tempered Glass 27" DVI-D Dual Computer PC Monitor

Both are the non-pivot model... I do not see the pivot model with tempered glass.


----------



## akg102

My monitor goes to portrait beautifully.....luck of the draw I guess. I'm thankful too, because that was the primary function I was looking for.


----------



## wsoul1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Hi guys, Im new here and I've been reading these threads and wanting to buy one of these 27". However, I want the one with the tempered glass one but without speakers cause i dont need the speakers. So for Crossover ones, which one has the tempered glass? Do you have the link? Cause all I see are CrossOver 27Q LED-P, but then how do you know if it has tempered glass or not?


cool-guys

red-cap


----------



## jincuteguy

Thanks guys. Do you know anyone that has a tempered glass version and has a video on youtube? Cause all of the videos i checked are non-glass version. I wonder why ppl went with the non-glass. I know they're cheaper but still.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Thanks guys. Do you know anyone that has a tempered glass version and has a video on youtube? Cause all of the videos i checked are non-glass version. I wonder why ppl went with the non-glass. I know they're cheaper but still.


I know one reason was that many of the Korean monitors (Shimian in particular) were arriving with dust particles and/or hair stuck between the glass and the screen.


----------



## sbuck333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Anyone have their package go through Chicago customs? If so, how long did it take?


mine has been stuck there since March 23, I'm starting to get really pissed tbh. Maybe they are overloaded or had some security threats or something. Either way its not legit......


----------



## cspaintball

hello, i am new here.

i have two questions.

1. does this monitor works with macbook pro? video card is NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M 256 MB.

2. does this monitor can work with TV. like time warner?

help will be appreciate.

thx


----------



## ACallander

Any chance someone could post a video of the crossfire playing bf3 and/or minecraft?


----------



## inferno222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> UPDATE: rebooted my PC a few times more, then disconnected and reconnected the cable a few times more and now it works!
> Wow, such an incredible monitor! Colors are amazing, great viewing angles and everything... well worth the price!! Very, very pleased.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if you'll excuse while I go play a few sick games


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar*
> 
> Thanks everyone! I've hooked it up to my brother's PC and it works perfectly! Moreover it's flawless!!! Very pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems I cannot for some reason configure my GPU properly. I have the card in my sig, and it has 4 DP ports + 2 DVI ports, one of which is dual link. Then there is a litttle switch than switches between single link and dual link. I flipped it (and rebooted too) but it doesn't work!


Thanks to you guys as well, this was the solution to my problem as well with the red led. It seems like the monitor retains some kind of memory and both have to be powered off and powered back on to work.

Just wanted to provide an update on my original post..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inferno222*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I ordered two crossover LED-P monitors from red-cap and received them today. One monitor works fine (no dead pixels as far as I can tell) however when trying to pivot into portrait mode, it won't reach a full 90 degrees, only about 85. I'm afraid to force it any more, as I had to use a good amount to get it there to begin with.
> Now my second monitor is a quite a bit more problematic. I have the same issue that a couple of other users here have had. Plug monitor in, turn on, screen flashes for a second with a blue LED, then screen turns off and the LED turns red. I swapped the power cable, adapter, and DVI cable with the working one and still no go. I did see one user post that they were able to get the monitor working with a 110v adapter, so I went ahead and ordered this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-New-AC-Adapter-for-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-120W-/350369931415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193ace097#ht_1481wt_1139) adapter in hopes that it will work. Unfortunately, that isn't the only problem. This monitor won't pivot at all. I applied the same force that worked with the first monitor and it won't budge.
> I really do like the display quality, so I hope I can get it working. For anyone else interested in ordering, I e-mailed red-cap and he said he could include a USA adapter for an additional $20 before he ships the monitors. Too late for me, but hopefully someone can take advantage of that. He accepted my offer of $800 for two monitors.
> Thanks for everyones input in this thread.


*Do not order this adapter!* This adapter does not work with the monitor, as was stated above in the thread - the polarity does not match. If you have an issue with the monitor flashing, and then going blank with a red LED, read my comments above.

Now I have two working monitors, the first monitor ended up with 1 stuck green pixel, and the 2nd monitor appears to be perfect, although it does not pivot.


----------



## jta98z

So what are all you guys receiving your monitors doing about the power adapter? Are you using the one that comes with it or are you all purchasing new ones?

I'm kinda confused...is the standard power adapter just flat out unusable? Because all the auctions keep saying you will *need* a 110v adapter.


----------



## adeptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jta98z*
> 
> So what are all you guys receiving your monitors doing about the power adapter? Are you using the one that comes with it or are you all purchasing new ones?
> I'm kinda confused...is the standard power adapter just flat out unusable? Because all the auctions keep saying you will *need* a 110v adapter.


I've had my Crossover for about 11 days using the origina 220V adapter here in Canada where the voltage is 120V. On the first day I noticed the adapter and the back of the monitor got kind of a little too warm for my liking, so I turned it off for a couple of hours and opened my window. Since then I have made sure the room is relatively cool (but not cold) and I have ordered this 120V adapter , but it still hasn't arrived. I've been using the 220V adapter each day for maybe 1-4 hours at a time, then turning the monitor off manually anytime I am not using it. The 120V adapter has taken now 10 days from the USA and still not yet arrived.

On a slight tangent I still have 1 stuck red pixel only visible on dark backgrounds (works fine otherwise). I've tried to "massage" the screen, done some light tapping and tried software to fix it for several hours at a time, no go.

Overall though, am very pleased with this monitor. I'd order 2 more, except the wife would disaprove (of the $$) hehe.








Good luck!


----------



## lukaav

Just registered, hello OC community.

Got my Crossover 27Q LED-P from dcsamsung yesterday. It took four days to reach Poland from Korea then another week at customs.
Customs+tax fee was around 90 euros.

It came packed only in its own box wrapped tightly in bubble wrap.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4819/dscf1950a.jpg

The panel is perfect, no stuck/dead pixels, uniformity is ok with slight bleed from the power led.
Uncalibrated it was way too cold/blue out of the box, calibration fixed that.

Here it is next to my old Eizo:
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/3097/dscf1952a.jpg

I am more than happy and highly recommend dcsamsungmall.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I can confirm the Crossover works @720p with both the PS3 and 360. Not sure about which Reference Level to use yet on the xbox 360 but I will figure it out.


Mine works with PS3 at 720p but the display randomly blacks out then reappears, maybe it's the crappy DVI<>HDMI.


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> So which would you choose? The Samsung or the Crossover?
> I've had my eye set on the samsung but now that the crossover is bad ass and half the price.. which would you recommend?


I own the achieva shimian (same panel as the crossover) and I have tested the samsung.

Pros for the samsung vs the shimian
- good non-agressive anti-glare
- stand, which is not very good, but better than the shimian=crap ( but I believe the crossover has a good stand ?)
- my shimian was buzzing (fixed it) I don't know if the crossover use the sames pcbs or not.

cons :
- contrast
- black
- weird colors out of the box (I don't have a colorimeter for comparing the 2 monitors calibrated)
- imput lag, unplayable, I could even feel latency in normal use (desktop, browsing ...), very uncomfortable.

It's simple, I tested the samsung arround 2 hours, and then put it back in the packaging, ready to send it back to the seller for a refund









Hope that help you to choose


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlesK*
> 
> - stand, which is not very good, but better than the shimian=crap ( but I believe the crossover have a good stand ?)


It is not up to DELL standards but it doesn't wobble and does its job.


----------



## MenacingTuba

IMO the stand on my Crossover>Samsung but the Crossover can't fully rotate 90 degrees.

@lukaav

I used my Crossover with both my 360/PS3 for a few hours w/o issue.


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> @lukaav
> I used my Crossover with both my 360/PS3 for a few hours w/o issue.


It looks like a common HDCP handshaking problem to me.
Most likely cabling/adapter. Nothing to worry about as I didn't buy it for PS3 though.


----------



## Stab

This monitor runs at 60hz at the 2560x1440 resolution, right? Just to make sure...


----------



## MenacingTuba

Yes. These don't support higher custom refresh rates at all.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> mine has been stuck there since March 23, I'm starting to get really pissed tbh. Maybe they are overloaded or had some security threats or something. Either way its not legit......


That's horrific. I'm so upset.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlesK*
> 
> I own the achieva shimian (same panel as the crossover) and I have tested the samsung.
> Pros for the samsung vs the shimian
> - good non-agressive anti-glare
> - stand, which is not very good, but better than the shimian=crap ( but I believe the crossover has a good stand ?)
> - my shimian was buzzing (fixed it) I don't know if the crossover use the sames pcbs or not.
> cons :
> - contrast
> - black
> - weird colors out of the box (I don't have a colorimeter for comparing the 2 monitors calibrated)
> - imput lag, unplayable, I could even feel latency in normal use (desktop, browsing ...), very uncomfortable.
> It's simple, I tested the samsung arround 2 hours, and then put it back in the packaging, ready to send it back to the seller for a refund
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that help you to choose


What Samsung monitor are you talking about? the S27A850 27" PLS?


----------



## drka0tic

Can anyone with the monitor please provide the actual weight of it? without the stand.
I'm looking for a aftermarket stand and have noticed that many nice ones cap out at 24lbs.

tia


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Can anyone with the monitor please provide the actual weight of it? without the stand.
> I'm looking for a aftermarket stand and have noticed that many nice ones cap out at 24lbs.
> tia


I would look for a stand that clears it by a wide margin. I have a 20ish lb monitor and a highly reviewed 30+lb rated stand still sags.

If you assume the lower weight here is the non-stand weight:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-27QLED-High-Resolution-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/160767488957?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item256e7d33bd

then it's just over 14 lbs.


----------



## eneerge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Anyone have their package go through Chicago customs? If so, how long did it take?


YES. Mine are stuck in Chicago right now, since March 23 (Week and 2 days). I am still waiting... I contacted USPS and asked if they could initiate a trace, but they said they cannot do that until it has passed customs. I am trying to see if I can get in touch with some customs people to see what the hold up is.

EDIT: Now customs are saying they have not received the package yet and it's still in a sorting facility. USPS says I have to contact seller to initiate a trace of where my package is. This is not looking good...


----------



## virtualmadden

I'm surprised mine went through so quickly. Purchased on March 31st and it's out for delivery today. According to Fedex it only took 71min from arrival in Alaska to get released by customs. I ordered from dcsamsungmall.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eneerge*
> 
> YES. Mine are stuck in Chicago right now, since March 23 (Week and 2 days). I am still waiting... I contacted USPS and asked if they could initiate a trace, but they said they cannot do that until it has passed customs. I am trying to see if I can get in touch with some customs people to see what the hold up is.
> EDIT: Now customs are saying they have not received the package yet and it's still in a sorting facility. USPS says I have to contact seller to initiate a trace of where my package is. This is not looking good...


Ugh this is incredibly upsetting. Who did you order from? Maybe it has something to do with the documentation being sent by the seller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualmadden*
> 
> I'm surprised mine went through so quickly. Purchased on March 31st and it's out for delivery today. According to Fedex it only took 71min from arrival in Alaska to get released by customs. I ordered from dcsamsungmall.


Everyone seemed to be experiencing this type of speed, part of the reason I went ahead and ordered. It's looking like a Chicago only issue. Mine also went through Alaska but no customs processing indicated in the tracking.


----------



## Decipher

I picked up my Crossover from USPS today, YAY!

BUT!

I'm having an issue. I can't get the monitor to display anything. Blue light comes on, my graphics card recognizes it as another display, but it just sits at a dark screen. The only thing I can think of is that I'm using the included power brick, but would that cause it to not display anything and still register as working everywhere else? Currently using an nVidia 470 which has two Dual-Link ports.

Troubleshooting I've done is:

Used a couple different outlets
Restarted computer
Switched between both ports on video card





On the plus side, doesn't appear to have any dead or stuck pixels from what I can tell on the dark screen.


----------



## eneerge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Ugh this is incredibly upsetting. Who did you order from? Maybe it has something to do with the documentation being sent by the seller.
> Everyone seemed to be experiencing this type of speed, part of the reason I went ahead and ordered. It's looking like a Chicago only issue. Mine also went through Alaska but no customs processing indicated in the tracking.


I ordered through dream-seller. It is shipping to Texas.

I just sent dream-seller an email asking if he could initiate a trace. Apparently the recipient can't do it.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eneerge*
> 
> I ordered through dream-seller. It is shipping to Texas.
> I just sent dream-seller an email asking if he could initiate a trace. Apparently the recipient can't do it.


I also ordered from dream-seller, as did my friend who is also stuck in customs. Not sure if it's directly related but definitely could be.


----------



## Taxidermy

Just got my Crossover from dcsamsungmall, was shipped about 1:00 am on Monday, arrived about 1:00 PM Tuesday in Ontario Canada.

Monitor is absolutely flawless, no stuck pixels or any damage. I didn't get the "free adapter" that was advertised, luckily I had an old PC cable and its working fine for now.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> I picked up my Crossover from USPS today, YAY!
> BUT!
> I'm having an issue. I can't get the monitor to display anything. Blue light comes on, my graphics card recognizes it as another display, but it just sits at a dark screen. The only thing I can think of is that I'm using the included power brick, but would that cause it to not display anything and still register as working everywhere else? Currently using an nVidia 470 which has two Dual-Link ports.
> Troubleshooting I've done is:
> 
> Used a couple different outlets
> Restarted computer
> Switched between both ports on video card
> 
> 
> On the plus side, doesn't appear to have any dead or stuck pixels from what I can tell on the dark screen.


If you can't get the monitor to display anything, then where did you get that 2nd picture from?


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> If you can't get the monitor to display anything, then where did you get that 2nd picture from?


The monitor I was/am using before the Crossover came in


----------



## lukaav

Try to gently reseat the cabling inside the monitor and/or a different DVI-DL cable (I cannot stress it enough that it has to be a DVI-DL cable).
Someone had similiar problem already here but can't find it at this moment.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> The monitor I was/am using before the Crossover came in


Have you always had both monitors connected? Perhaps try booting up with only the crossover connected.


----------



## ChaosDimension85

I too was having the same problem and began to panic at first. I believe when you first power it up you can't have any other display hooked up as I believe that you do. Simply unplug your other monitor and only have the Crossover plugged in. Then you can plug second monitor no problem. That should fix it.


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosDimension85*
> 
> I believe when you first power it up you can't have any other display hooked up.


That wasn't my case, easily plugged in as a second display.


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What Samsung monitor are you talking about? the S27A850 27" PLS?


He asked about this one, so ... yes


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I would look for a stand that clears it by a wide margin. I have a 20ish lb monitor and a highly reviewed 30+lb rated stand still sags.
> If you assume the lower weight here is the non-stand weight:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-27QLED-High-Resolution-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/160767488957?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item256e7d33bd
> then it's just over 14 lbs.


Thanks


----------



## sbuck333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I also ordered from dream-seller, as did my friend who is also stuck in customs. Not sure if it's directly related but definitely could be.


the supervisor at my local usps branch told me they are stuck in customs, they probably got pulled for inspection. Basically it means we are screwed for now. The lady told me that they can't even get customs to explain the situation. Even dream-seller might not be able to do much, but its worth a shot.

******* customs, man. I think they can hold it for something like 30 days without even explaining themselves. After that we should get a physical letter telling us *** is going on. I knew ordering this thing was a terrible idea but I didn't know it would bite me this hard.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> the supervisor at my local usps branch told me they are stuck in customs, they probably got pulled for inspection. Basically it means we are screwed for now. The lady told me that they can't even get customs to explain the situation. Even dream-seller might not be able to do much, but its worth a shot.
> ******* customs, man. I think they can hold it for something like 30 days without even explaining themselves. After that we should get a physical letter telling us *** is going on. I knew ordering this thing was a terrible idea but I didn't know it would bite me this hard.


Ya, I'm pretty upset. Never saw this coming when everyone was posting how the shipping was exceptionally fast.

EDIT: I bet if we could cancel the order and re-order from Red-Cap we'd get it faster....I feel like Dream-Seller didn't fill in the documentation properly.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Mine shipped to Canada, BC in 2 days and sat in customs for 3. When I ordered my Denon D2000 headphones from the Amazon US Marketplace they sat in customs for 3 weeks.


----------



## J Macker

Just a heads up, I hope everybody's Crossover is fine.
I'm a longtime member over at [H] and one of the members there had an email exchange with one of the ebay sellers "ta_planet".
It's reported that some of the Crossovers are defective. Quoted from hardforum:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NickJames*
> According to the conversation we had.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> This is Kinam in Korea.
> I just called to you.
> but I think my voice did not reach to you.
> 
> I have important information about your purchased item.
> Crossover 27Q model has dead pixel and white line problem at now.
> so crossover company informed me to stop shipping items temporarily until solve this problem.
> 
> so we have to cancel transaction at this time.
> 
> Or, I suggest another brand model, QH270-lite,
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_8229wt_1164
> That is good reputation too.
> 
> - ta_planet
> 
> 
> 
> I asked him when he would get new one in stock. His response was..
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, crossover company now trying to find the white line problem.
> This may be from the pannel problem.
> A minus degree IPS pannel has up to 5 dead pixels,
> sometimes these dead pixels change to vertical lines.
> That is problem.
> 
> So I suggest you Shimian QH270-lite model.
> Pannel quality is better than crossover.
> 
> What should we do?
> 
> 1. full refund
> 2. full refund and buy QH270-lite monitor again.
> 
> Sorry for frequent calling.
> This problem is emergency.
> so now I'm talking with another buyers now.
> 
> - ta_planet
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I asked him if he would lower the price back to $365 since it's currently over $400.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I raised the price to avoid selling items.
> 
> I will do full refund at now.
> 
> Maybe another ebay seller get good condition crossover monitor first.
> My supplier is 2nd wholesaler, so 2~3 days late to get message.
> 
> Thanks for your understanding.
> I will refund and send the cancel transaction request to you.
> 
> Best Regard from Korea
> Kinam
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## drka0tic

Who's reporting this "white line" issue? From what I've seen no one at OCN has been affected. This sounds very suspicious.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Who's reporting this "white line" issue? From what I've seen no one at OCN has been affected. This sounds very suspicious.


I hadn't even seen ta_planet in the listings until very recently.


----------



## J Macker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Who's reporting this "white line" issue? From what I've seen no one at OCN has been affected. This sounds very suspicious.


I don't know. I hadn't heard of it until now either. Even though I didn't get my Crossover from ta_planet, I'm still concerned.

If I were purchasing again, I'd get a Shimian and replace the stand.


----------



## drka0tic

I wouldn't worry until the users start reporting this problem. I just received three Crossovers today from dcsamsung but unfortunately wont be able to test them until the weekend.


----------



## Nickjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I hadn't even seen ta_planet in the listings until very recently.


He had the lowest price on Crossover's and Shimians, beating most people by $10-$15, almost 2 hours after my purchase I got a call from him saying that he is unable to fulfill my order since the Crossovers were defective. Maybe it was just a shipment he received, I ordered one from dcsamsungmall so will see if it's just an isolated issue.


----------



## Stab

**** I was just about to pull the trigger on the Crossover tomorrow, but now I read that update from ta_planet...

Order anyway from another seller? Or go with the Shimian in stead... Hard decissions


----------



## Animanganime

Got my monitor today, it is surprisingly smaller than my 30" HP LP3065 2560 monitor, it almost looks cute
It will take me a while to get used to the smaller space, but the clarity is amazing, everything is crystal clear
I do have one stuck pixel near the bottom left of the screen, very small since the pixel density of this monitor is pretty insane
Calibrated with my Eye1 calibrator, the power brick is the 240v one but it works right out of the box, I can't wait for the proper power brick
to get here so I plugged it in anyway and it's working just fine.
I am using the stance from the Dell WFP2008 since the original stance is quite short.
I will get some picture uploaded soon, I can't be more happy with this, wish they made a 30" version (for cheap)


----------



## xedni

Arg, my u2410 looks so much better colour wise. So hard to calibrate this as I lack knowledge of how to calibrate monitors and my u2410 has presets which I utilize ><.


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukaav*
> 
> Try to gently reseat the cabling inside the monitor and/or a different DVI-DL cable (I cannot stress it enough that it has to be a DVI-DL cable).
> Someone had similiar problem already here but can't find it at this moment.


I'll pick up another DVI-DL cable this evening and give it a try, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Have you always had both monitors connected? Perhaps try booting up with only the crossover connected.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosDimension85*
> 
> I too was having the same problem and began to panic at first. I believe when you first power it up you can't have any other display hooked up as I believe that you do. Simply unplug your other monitor and only have the Crossover plugged in. Then you can plug second monitor no problem. That should fix it.


I did that first actually. The only reason I hooked up my other one is because I couldn't get the Crossover to work properly. I'll keep fiddling with different combinations though. I appreciate the help!


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> I'll pick up another DVI-DL cable this evening and give it a try, thanks.
> I did that first actually. The only reason I hooked up my other one is because I couldn't get the Crossover to work properly. I'll keep fiddling with different combinations though. I appreciate the help!


Update:

Dropped by BestBuy and picked up another cable and still no dice. The included cable works fine on my old monitor, so I know it's not a defective cable. The only thing I can think of at this point is either bad monitor or incorrect power supply.


----------



## ACallander

Has anyone ordered from this guy?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-27Q-LED-P-27-Widescreen-LED-Monitor-/110848739011?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19cf1986c3#ht_500wt_1413

US $399.00 w/ Free Shipping and located in: Monterey Park, CA, United States


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from this guy?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-27Q-LED-P-27-Widescreen-LED-Monitor-/110848739011?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19cf1986c3#ht_500wt_1413
> US $399.00 w/ Free Shipping and located in: Monterey Park, CA, United States


He doesn't actually have any in-stock.

It's a pre-order.


----------



## sbuck333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Ya, I'm pretty upset. Never saw this coming when everyone was posting how the shipping was exceptionally fast.
> EDIT: I bet if we could cancel the order and re-order from Red-Cap we'd get it faster....I feel like Dream-Seller didn't fill in the documentation properly.


dreamseller suspects we may need to send customs an invoice but I haven't got in touch with customs directly yet


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Update:
> Dropped by BestBuy and picked up another cable and still no dice. The included cable works fine on my old monitor, so I know it's not a defective cable. The only thing I can think of at this point is either bad monitor or incorrect power supply.


Try to gently reseat/correct the cabling inside the monitor. It probably got loose in transport.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Just finished gaming, my colour profile worked for L4D2, Bad Company 2 and Homefront. The input lag is low enough that I can comfortably game with Vsync @60hz after coming from a 120hz TN, except with Homefront and the triple buffering in L4D2. I can barely play on my 850D with Vsync off due to the input lag, so I pretty much never do. I'd say the Crossover is faster than the 850D. There is very minor streaking/smearing and overshoot/corona effect (shield/tail forming around moving objects) but it is minimal compared to the 850D which shows large overshoots depending on the colours when using the "Faster," overdrive setting. Using the lower "Normal," setting eliminates overshoot but there is streaking/smearing and 18ms of input lag. The Crossover shows less ghosting than a few TN panels I have used like the Samsung S27a550h and HP 2509B.

I sent my profile to TFT Central, it should be up in the next few days. I will provide a link when it is uploaded.


----------



## Modz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> the supervisor at my local usps branch told me they are stuck in customs, they probably got pulled for inspection. Basically it means we are screwed for now. The lady told me that they can't even get customs to explain the situation. Even dream-seller might not be able to do much, but its worth a shot.
> ******* customs, man. I think they can hold it for something like 30 days without even explaining themselves. After that we should get a physical letter telling us *** is going on. I knew ordering this thing was a terrible idea but I didn't know it would bite me this hard.


I bet customs watches these forums and wanted to use these bad boys for a month.

If you are going to order a Crossover, order from DC he includes the right ac adapter for US. It will save you headaches and the monitors I had ordered from him are flawless.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I just received my three Crossover 27Q LED-P and the customs oppenned two of my packages and charged me 79$ of custom fees.

One of my Crossover is a little crush on the portrait pivot. I will take pictures later tonight, only had time to test one monitor, best monitor of my life yetC can wait to test my other monitors. I am waiting for two active dongles (mini-port) and a longer DVI Dual Link cable for my third monitor.

So far , I am very happy. I will also check for the Output Voltage. I live in Canada and voltage is 120/240v so I will check that out. I think the power brick is actually a 110-230v. Will post my experience tonight.


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukaav*
> 
> Try to gently reseat/correct the cabling inside the monitor. It probably got loose in transport.


How would I go about doing that?

EDIT: I took a peek under the hook and made sure all the cables and wires were tight and secured. Put everything back together and still no dice. I've contacted dream-seller on seeing about a return/exchange


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> dreamseller suspects we may need to send customs an invoice but I haven't got in touch with customs directly yet


Thanks, please let us know if you find anything else out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I just received my three Crossover 27Q LED-P and the customs oppenned two of my packages and charged me 79$ of custom fees.
> One of my Crossover is a little crush on the portrait pivot. I will take pictures later tonight, only had time to test one monitor, best monitor of my life yetC can wait to test my other monitors. I am waiting for two active dongles (mini-port) and a longer DVI Dual Link cable for my third monitor.
> So far , I am very happy. I will also check for the Output Voltage. I live in Canada and voltage is 120/240v so I will check that out. I think the power brick is actually a 110-230v. Will post my experience tonight.


Seriously?! When I ordered everything was peachy for everyone, fast shipping, no customs fees. If I have to wait for weeks and then pay them for it, I'll really regret this purchase. God help me if I end up with a defective monitor on top of it all.


----------



## sbuck333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Thanks, please let us know if you find anything else out.
> Seriously?! When I ordered everything was peachy for everyone, fast shipping, no customs fees. If I have to wait for weeks and then pay them for it, I'll really regret this purchase. God help me if I end up with a defective monitor on top of it all.


good lord. USPS says customs have it for inspection, its their fault. Customs says USPS has it because the tracking number is stuck at the "sorting facility". I'm a political science major so I should have expected this crap from the bureaucracy but I guess I was being optimistic. All we can do now is hope for the best. We should get a letter by April 23rd if something is wrong. The customs lady I spoke to said it wasn't that unusual to have to wait a few weeks for this kind of thing, even though I explained to her that similar shipments are clearing in a matter of hours. I'm gonna hit dreamseller back up and see what we can do. He/She was very apologetic in his mail but at this point I just kind of want my money back so that I can buy from DC or someone who can actually get the damn thing into the country without giving me a heart attack level of stress and anxiety about where my hundreds of dollars are tied up.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> good lord. USPS says customs have it for inspection, its their fault. Customs says USPS has it because the tracking number is stuck at the "sorting facility". I'm a political science major so I should have expected this crap from the bureaucracy but I guess I was being optimistic. All we can do now is hope for the best. We should get a letter by April 23rd if something is wrong. The customs lady I spoke to said it wasn't that unusual to have to wait a few weeks for this kind of thing, even though I explained to her that similar shipments are clearing in a matter of hours. I'm gonna hit dreamseller back up and see what we can do. He/She was very apologetic in his mail but at this point I just kind of want my money back so that I can buy from DC or someone who can actually get the damn thing into the country without giving me a heart attack level of stress and anxiety about where my hundreds of dollars are tied up.


I 100% agree, I feel pretty confident I could order from DC now and get it faster.


----------



## PubFiction

Has anyone figured out what causes so much back light bleed in the bottom right hand corner? Is it possible the panels is getting some light from the power LED?


----------



## Prothean

Hi guys. After following this thread and countless others in other forums, I decided to purchase a CrossOver LED-P (pivot version). I'd like to share my purchasing experience to help you guys be more informed.

I ordered from Rep-Cap and offered $400, which he accepted. It took about 6 business days (not including the weekend) to ship the monitor to Alberta, Canada. The monitor was wrapped in a couple inches of bubble wrap and was marked as a gift worth $50. No duties or taxes on delivery.

I received the LOADUS power brick which has an input of 190-240V (AC) and an output of 24V (DC). I measured the output voltage with a multimeter and it is outputting 24V (DC) when supplying only 120V (AC). So the power brick seems fine, you just need an old power cable.

Unfortunately, I didn't get a pixel perfect panel. I have 1 green stuck pixel located a few inches left of center. It is only visible on black backgrounds. I tried massaging it out, but didn't have any success. I'm currently running UDPixel on it all day to see if it fixes it.

My monitor pivots a full 90 degrees.

Overall, I'm satisfied with the purchase. The extra resolution is a pleasure to work with.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PubFiction*
> 
> Has anyone figured out what causes so much back light bleed in the bottom right hand corner? Is it possible the panels is getting some light from the power LED?


If it is I bet we can fix it.


----------



## Strategist86

I put in a bid for a Crossover LED (non-pivot) at red-cap this past sunday... $375... within a few hours he accepted it, I confirmed the payment monday morning. Ever since I have been waiting to see anything happen, doesn't seem to have been shipped yet. Think I should mail him?


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> I picked up my Crossover from USPS today, YAY!
> BUT!
> I'm having an issue. I can't get the monitor to display anything. Blue light comes on, my graphics card recognizes it as another display, but it just sits at a dark screen. The only thing I can think of is that I'm using the included power brick, but would that cause it to not display anything and still register as working everywhere else? Currently using an nVidia 470 which has two Dual-Link ports.
> Troubleshooting I've done is:
> 
> Used a couple different outlets
> Restarted computer
> Switched between both ports on video card
> 
> On the plus side, doesn't appear to have any dead or stuck pixels from what I can tell on the dark screen.


Hey your CrossOver logo is different. It says Cross8ver and the font is different.










Who did you buy from?


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strategist86*
> 
> I put in a bid for a Crossover LED (non-pivot) at red-cap this past sunday... $375... within a few hours he accepted it, I confirmed the payment monday morning. Ever since I have been waiting to see anything happen, doesn't seem to have been shipped yet. Think I should mail him?


You'll get emailed a tracking number when it ships. Rep-Cap takes a few business days to ship. For mine it took him 3 business days before shipping.


----------



## adeptus

Quote:


> So far , I am very happy. I will also check for the Output Voltage. I live in Canada and voltage is 120/240v so I will check that out. I think the power brick is actually a 110-230v. Will post my experience tonight.


Canada is not 240V, in fact no country is 120/240. It's an EITHER / OR situation. See map here:

Source:http://users.telenet.be/worldstandards/electricity.htm


----------



## wheelsx45

Set my monitor up 4 days ago, now today I restarted my computer and monitor turned off. I reset the power and dvi, no power. Perhaps my the power adapter died? It is the 100v-240 type as well


----------



## Lost4468

Can this overclock at all?


----------



## teraflame

No.


----------



## PubFiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prothean*
> 
> Hey your CrossOver logo is different. It says Cross8ver and the font is different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who did you buy from?


My crossover looks like this too, recieved from dcsamsungmall yesterday. I wondered about it because this logo sucks. Almost wonder if the factory is making a ripoff to sell more around the OEM, or if it had something to do with dcsamsungmall offering a PSU that would work here.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PubFiction*
> 
> My crossover looks like this too, recieved from dcsamsungmall yesterday. I wondered about it because this logo sucks. Almost wonder if the factory is making a ripoff to sell more around the OEM, or if it had something to do with dcsamsungmall offering a PSU that would work here.


The logo seems legit:

http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27HTLED

Maybe they're using this "new" logo going forward.


----------



## ChrisZXZ

hey all
i've been watching this thread and i just joined the forum since as of today i'm another happy 27Q owner. first off id like to thank everyone for their input and feedback on the monitors. It was really helpful as well as motivating.
So after reading so many good impressions its now my turn to say how awesome this monitor looks and so far, is. Even though im nothing sort of an expert and dont do any graphic work on the computer i can appreciate a good display when i see one. I haven't noticed any bad pixels so far but i do experience backlight bleed on the upper left and right side of the monitor. This is only noticeable in a dark room however. IPS glow is there too, and blacks are not compared to plasma panels -no surprise- but that's about it. Colors look great (even without calibration) and the resolution.. well, i really need to find some way to fill all this area.

This thing really is a steal. A Cinema Display is about 1000 euros while the Crossover goes for 290. Even if i had a couple bad pixels -which i don't, it would still be a good deal. To people that have ordered one and are still waiting on it hang in there, its worth the wait.


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prothean*
> 
> I received the LOADUS power brick which has an input of 190-240V (AC) and an output of 24V (DC). I measured the output voltage with a multimeter and it is outputting 24V (DC) when supplying only 120V (AC). So the power brick seems fine, you just need an old power.


Just an FYI for anyone measuring the DC output of the brick...it's a fairly useless measurement without a load on the output. You'd have to take the measurement while the brick is hooked to the monitor for any kind of useful measurement. And even if you still got 24 volt reading, it still doesn't mean everything is good. By running at half the input voltage you are running twice the current through the front end of the power supply and so if the parts are not rated for that...you could still get early failures.

Most of these supplies are pretty generic and so the parts could easily be rated for 120v and the label just didn't reflect that. Or the parts really could only be rated for 240v operation. No way of knowing without opening up the psu and inspecting...


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prothean*
> 
> Hey your CrossOver logo is different. It says Cross8ver and the font is different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who did you buy from?


Purchased from dream-seller. I thought it was messed up when I first looked at it since the C looks like it has been scraped off and everything. Same logo as what's on the back too, so it must be legit.


----------



## ACallander

so there is a glass and non-glass version of this display?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> so there is a glass and non-glass version of this display?


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Crossover+27Q+LED+tempered+glass&_sacat=0&_odkw=Crossover+27Q+LED-P&_osacat=0&_from=R40

Yes but it has the non-adjustable stand.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Just an FYI for anyone measuring the DC output of the brick...it's a fairly useless measurement without a load on the output. You'd have to take the measurement while the brick is hooked to the monitor for any kind of useful measurement. And even if you still got 24 volt reading, it still doesn't mean everything is good. By running at half the input voltage you are running twice the current through the front end of the power supply and so if the parts are not rated for that...you could still get early failures.
> Most of these supplies are pretty generic and so the parts could easily be rated for 120v and the label just didn't reflect that. Or the parts really could only be rated for 240v operation. No way of knowing without opening up the psu and inspecting...


Thanks for the info.

So in the worst case the power brick could fail and we'd need to replace it?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> good lord. USPS says customs have it for inspection, its their fault. Customs says USPS has it because the tracking number is stuck at the "sorting facility". I'm a political science major so I should have expected this crap from the bureaucracy but I guess I was being optimistic. All we can do now is hope for the best. We should get a letter by April 23rd if something is wrong. The customs lady I spoke to said it wasn't that unusual to have to wait a few weeks for this kind of thing, even though I explained to her that similar shipments are clearing in a matter of hours. I'm gonna hit dreamseller back up and see what we can do. He/She was very apologetic in his mail but at this point I just kind of want my money back so that I can buy from DC or someone who can actually get the damn thing into the country without giving me a heart attack level of stress and anxiety about where my hundreds of dollars are tied up.


What seller did you buy yours from? Is it Dream-seller? or ?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hi, here are the pictures, need to buy a longer DVI-D cable tomorrow at best buy. I'll receive the dongles tomorrow for extreme 7680x1440 resolution









I also checked the power brick and the output voltage is 23,86v. I think it will work fine like this. I guess these power bricks are rated 100v /230v. Anyway, check my setup, can't wait to test the third one tomorrow. No dead pixel so far. Little backlight bleeding in the lower right corner like other mentionned.


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prothean*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> So in the worst case the power brick could fail and we'd need to replace it?


Can't say for sure. If we could measure the 24v output while connected to the monitor at max load (full brightness) and make sure there is a solid 24Vdc then most likely it should be pretty safe to use the power brick. Most power bricks are pretty well isolated between AC and DC sides and so if something failed on the AC side...it shouldn't cause much of a problem on the DC side.

However...it could cause stress/fatigue on parts inside the monitor if the output of the brick isn't a solid DC voltage. If there are small spikes on the DC line then it could cause stress on the parts inside monitor. The only way to really know would be to put an o-cope on the 24V line while under load. Probably could do this by removing the back panel and powering up the monitor. I haven't taken my rear panel off, but I'm assuming there would be fairly easy access to the 24Vdc coming into the monitor.

If I had to guess...I think it is likely just fine to use the power brick on 110V. The brick will likely get a little warmer...but most likely it will be fine. I would be interested in measuring the 24Vdc line though...


----------



## Sfuor

Some catleap owners says they have a problem with backlight with minimal brightness. Half screen more dark than another with brightness nearly 0. Has anyone seen this problem with crossover? Could you check crossover's backlight with minimal brightness please.


----------



## ChrisZXZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfuor*
> 
> Some catleap owners says they have a problem with backlight with minimal brightness. Half screen more dark than another with brightness nearly 0. Has anyone seen this problem with crossover? Could you check crossover's backlight with minimal brightness please.


negative


----------



## tianh

Plugged in my crossover, except everything is super blurry (text etc). Am I supposed to reinstall graphics drivers? help!


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Plugged in my crossover, except everything is super blurry (text etc). Am I supposed to reinstall graphics drivers? help!


What resolution is it set at?


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> What resolution is it set at?


Highest resolution 2560 by 1440 or whatever the monitor is supposed to run at. I did use the DVI cable from my other monitor though, should I use the one they supplied me?


----------



## tianh

Here take a look.

Other than this issue, monitor works and one stuck green pixel on the top right of monitor. ANy ideas how to fix?


----------



## sinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Here take a look.
> Other than this issue, monitor works and one stuck green pixel on the top right of monitor. ANy ideas how to fix?


I don't see anything wrong with that screenshot. The blur around the text is caused by windows' ClearType. You can run a wizard from control panel to tune it.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Here take a look.
> 
> Other than this issue, monitor works and one stuck green pixel on the top right of monitor. ANy ideas how to fix?


which issue?


----------



## tianh

Yeah the image doesn't show it well, but trust me everything is extremely blurry.. Should I try using the DVI cable that came with the monitor?


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> which issue?
> your monitor looks GREAT!


lol maybe ill try taking a pic with my camera or something, but its definitely super fuzzy and blurry. What gives..


----------



## Hydros

Make sure the resolution is set to 2560x1440.


----------



## tianh

Plugged in the supplied DVI cable instead of the one from my old monitor and now it works. This monitor is AMAZING! Now to get rid of the stuck pixels.. I remember some member showing how he did it? Any clarifications on removing stuck pixels?


----------



## tianh

just felt like I had to post another post. This monitor is absolutely AMAZING. Its like going to HD mode. wow, never going back to 1080, or TN panels anymore.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Yeah the image doesn't show it well, but trust me everything is extremely blurry.. Should I try using the DVI cable that came with the monitor?


The DVI cable that u were using that gave the blurriness is because your DVI cable is single link. You need to use a dual link DVI for 2560-1400 resolution, hence using the DVI that came with the monitor works because the one came with the monitor is Dual Link DVI


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> The DVI cable that u were using that gave the blurriness is because your DVI cable is single link. You need to use a dual link DVI for 2560-1400 resolution, hence using the DVI that came with the monitor works because the one came with the monitor is Dual Link DVI


Ahh gotcha, I was under the impression that since it was even able to display 2560 by 1440 at all then it mustve been a dual link cable. Guess I was wrong!


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Ahh gotcha, I was under the impression that since it was even able to display 2560 by 1440 at all then it mustve been a dual link cable. Guess I was wrong!


It wouldn't have been able to display 2560x1440. You may have THOUGHT it was...but it wasn't. Its not possible...you don't have the physical wires/lines in a non dual-link dvi cable in order to display the higher resolution.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Is anyone getting faint scanlines?


----------



## KaRLiToS

I just tried Modern Warfare 3 at 7680x1440p with triple CrossOver.

My Experience: Insane


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I just tried Modern Warfare 3 at 7680x1440p with triple CrossOver.
> My Experience: Insane


Sounds amazing! What FPS range you getting?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Sounds amazing! What FPS range you getting?


I'm getting around 40 fps with max settings, same thing with Mass Effect 3, but soon, real soon, less than a year, i'll upgrade for 2 x 7990 to leave low fps behind.

My Triple 6970 are struggling right now.









I bought 3 CrossOver from Red-Cap, 0 dead pixel in all 3 monitors, I'm very happy. So happy I'm having a semi









I just had my new prescription and new glasses, it's like the best resolution I've seen in my life, looks like 2160p

I need to find a program to calibrate my color on all 3 monitors, any suggestions?


----------



## Tejh

I'm curious. Does this monitor have glass on it or not? In my head, this thing looks more like the imac displays where it's covered with one sheet of glass. Is that the case? If not, is it made of that matte material that most LCD's are?


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I'm getting around 40 fps with max settings, same thing with Mass Effect 3, but soon, real soon, less than a year, i'll upgrade for 2 x 7990 to leave low fps behind.
> My Triple 6970 are struggling right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought 3 CrossOver from Red-Cap, 0 dead pixel in all 3 monitors, I'm very happy. So happy I'm having a semi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had my new prescription and new glasses, it's like the best resolution I've seen in my life, looks like 2160p
> I need to find a program to calibrate my color on all 3 monitors, any suggestions?


Wow! Three perfect screens. Congrats!

I actually ordered 3 from dcsamsung, but unfortunately only one will be for me








I won't be able to test them 'til this weekend. Hoping for the best.

For software calibration, I came across the following site a while back; but I haven't used it myself yet.

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Wow! Three perfect screens. Congrats!
> I actually ordered 3 from dcsamsung, but unfortunately only one will be for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won't be able to test them 'til this weekend. Hoping for the best.
> For software calibration, I came across the following site a while back; but I haven't used it myself yet.
> http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/


Easily the best non-hardware calibration out there!

If you don't have a colorimeter, lagom.nl will at least get your displays within each other much better than anything else I've tried.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I'll try this,

But I have a little backlight bleeding, I only notice when screen goes black, but I don't really care. The only thing that pisses me off is the stupid 100$ dongles







. Needed to buy 2.

CrossOver 27Q Led-P : 395$ * 3 = 1 185$
Customs on 2 x screens : 79$
Active DVI-D to Mini Display port: 200$

ToTal: 1 464$

If I would have decided to buy 3 x Dell u2711 instead, the total price would have been around 3 400$ for same quality. I'm really happy, the Stand is so steady on the crossover

Again for the eyeCandy


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> The only thing that pisses me off is the stupid 100$ dongles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Needed to buy 2.


What $100 dollar dongles did you need?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Its written in the same post , read









Active DVI-D to Mini Display port (USB powered)


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I'll try this,
> But I have a little backlight bleeding, I only notice when screen goes black, but I don't really care. The only thing that pisses me off is the stupid 100$ dongles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Needed to buy 2.
> CrossOver 27Q Led-P : 395$ * 3 = 1 185$
> Customs on 2 x screens : 79$
> Active DVI-D to Mini Display port: 200$
> ToTal: 1 464$
> If I would have decided to buy 3 x Dell u2711 instead, the total price would have been around 3 400$ for same quality. I'm really happy, the Stand is so steady on the crossover
> Again for the eyeCandy










OMG! Beautiful setup. I love the wall-washing light. Do you have that on the desk behind the monitor?


----------



## KaRLiToS

I have two Led bars behind my center monitor to reflect on the white wall, and I have two led bars under the desk

My best is green, and also the pink and purple are great


----------



## drka0tic

It looks great. I've wanted to create the same effect and was thinking about getting the Philips LivingColors light:
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-69143-60-LivingColors-Translucent/dp/B003TFEQQC


----------



## Wage

I'm wanting to get an LED bar or similar lighting solution for my girlfriend, whose desk lamp is a cheesy $20 deal from Walmart. Which models do you use, Karlitos?

My girlfriend's current clip-on desk lamp never gives off enough light, but she hates using her ceiling light because it's far too bright. I think this might be the perfect in-between...


----------



## Futzy

So I've heard the Crossover has the best build quality out of all the models, and it certainly looks like it does. Would the display be better for professional color work than the Shimian though?


----------



## hv43082

All theses lcds use the same lg panel so there is no difference in quality.


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hv43082*
> 
> All theses lcds use the same lg panel so there is no difference in quality.


Can you not read, hv4? It's been explained time and again that the same panel =/= same quality. FFS, I'm not even going to waste more hand strength; use the search function.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> I'm wanting to get an LED bar or similar lighting solution for my girlfriend, whose desk lamp is a cheesy $20 deal from Walmart. Which models do you use, Karlitos?
> My girlfriend's current clip-on desk lamp never gives off enough light, but she hates using her ceiling light because it's far too bright. I think this might be the perfect in-between...


Its Led Strip Bars from Ikea,

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50192365/

A lot of wires but I manage to hide them all.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> If I would have decided to buy 3 x Dell u2711 instead, the total price would have been around 3 400$ for same quality. I'm really happy, the Stand is so steady on the crossover
> Again for the eyeCandy


Congrats man. Looks great!

Can you turn on and off the blue powerlight?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Its a Led Strip Bar, I can choose all colors I want. My favorite is green and purple, and Dark Red


----------



## sinnerg

Just found this thread. These monitors look sweet for the money. I would love to have the polarizer off one of these to swap into my U2711. They're the same panel.


----------



## Decipher

Update:

I've been in contact with DS the past couple days about my monitor. His first response was to simply try plugging it in as the only monitor and make sure it was in the first slot of my graphics card. Pretty much what people suggested here.

Replied back that that didn't work. Waited for another response.

Got a reply back this morning
Quote:


> Here is other solution. Can you upgrade the graphic card, and try to connect it again, please? We have had quite many buyers who complained with similar problem with yours. They upgraded the graphic card of their computer, and now they are using their monitors without any problem.


Well, I don't exactly have a spare $200 to buy a similar powered card to test and see if this works, so does anyone use an nVidia 470 with their Crossover? It's looking like I'm just going to have to send this beautiful monitor back


----------



## Jarobata

Still stuck in customs after a week. My buddy has called a couple times but they seem to be just jerking him around. At this point I don't expect to see it for a month. I'm considering ordering from another seller and then selling this one when it arrives but I'm not confident the problem isn't Chicago.


----------



## ACallander

Can someone post detailed pictures of the matte and glossy versions in a real world environment to get the idea of which looks better?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Can someone post detailed pictures of the matte and glossy versions in a real world environment to get the idea of which looks better?


http://www.strongmocha.com/2009/07/07/apple-macbook-pro-glare-glossy-vs-non-glare-matte/


----------



## Jarobata

Update for all those stuck in customs, apparently if something gets flagged for duty processing there is only one part time employee who handles it. Monitors should not be in duty processing, it's a mistake.


----------



## tianh

Does anyone know how long I am supposed to massage the stuck pixel for? Been running pixelrepairer, jscreen and massassing it. Still there


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Its written in the same post , read
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Active DVI-D to Mini Display port (USB powered)


Sorry...didn't word very well. I was wondering which dongles you bought... Did you see the monoprice ones for 69?


----------



## sbuck333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Update for all those stuck in customs, apparently if something gets flagged for duty processing there is only one part time employee who handles it. Monitors should not be in duty processing, it's a mistake.


so as soon as Part-Time Warrior gets around to it, our monitors should get kicked back into the system and mailed to us without being charged duty? That would be great despite the wait.


----------



## Territoria

Hi there,
greetings from Belgium.
1) MY SELLER: I bought my Crossover 27MLED last monday and am, until now, pretty happy with the communication I had with my seller. I bought it from Greensum and het was the only one, replying almost immediatly to my questions. After buying, he was also always at disposition when I was concerned about this White line situation, telling that Crossover was supposed to be calling back their monitors because of a general failure. Het answered me that he called Crossover and some other distributors and that none of them was aware of this fact. He would keep his attention on it however and tell me if there would be a problem. I told him I was pretty anxious for this pixelproblems in general and he replied that he would do his best and help me if there would be a problem. I thought I would share this with you. Waiting for it to arrive now. Got my trackingnumber two days ago and it's still at the airport.

2) MLED: I also see that there are very few or no comments on the 27MLED-version with HDMI, SCALER , 10bits, and all the other connections. Do people have good experience with them? They are the most expensive of all. Did some connect it to their PS3 yet? They also have a slightly different look.

3) ICC-PROFILES: I read on page 40 that someone posted his ICC=profile on TFT-central . It's not there yet. .... Are there other people who did a real callibration on these monitors? That would help a lot of people, I think. In the Yamakshi/Catleap -clup on this forum , they have a very well developped section on calibration. It's a shame we don't have something like this here for this monitors. So, please , I need some calibrationprofiles


----------



## drka0tic

Finally set mines up







I ordered three of them from dcsamsungmall last Friday afternoon, and they were delivered the following Tuesday to NYC. Still don't understand how he can ship so fast









He included the 110V adapter which works perfectly. I quickly checked for dead pixels and only found a single one on the right edge of the screen. Not even noticeable. The image quality is amazing. The colors are a little too cool out the box so I will be calibrating soon.

I bought the 680 just to be able to play the games on this monitor. I played a few minutes of Skyrim at max settings and it looks absolutely beautiful.

The build quality is also great. The adjustable stand is very sturdy. I was planning on getting a different stand, but this one is surprisingly compact and aesthetically pleasing.

Definitely one of my best purchases ever and highly recommend it to whoever is still debating.


----------



## SimpleTech

For anyone having display issues (LED going on then off), I would highly recommend trying another DVI-D cable. I was borrowing the cable that came with my Crossover and using it with my ViewSonic monitor and it would not show anything on the screen. I eventually found another DVI cable of which worked fine.


----------



## PubFiction

Can someone please edit the pole so that there is a perfect picture 0 dead pixels option. I know that less than 5 is considered good enough but it sure is not perfect. And I think that is a statistic more people are interested. Also I think a pixel cluster should push you into imperfect 6+


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PubFiction*
> 
> Can someone please edit the pole so that there is a perfect picture 0 dead pixels option. I know that less than 5 is considered good enough but it sure is not perfect. And I think that is a statistic more people are interested. Also I think a pixel cluster should push you into imperfect 6+


Problem is that "Perfect Picture" displays aren't actually guaranteed 0 dead pixels. All they do is glance over it and if they spot a few, they swap it for another one. And that doesn't count that some may form during transit.


----------



## edo101

So how do all three stack up against each other? CATLEAP vs. Crossover Vs Shim?

I want to buy one of these around summer time


----------



## fck3nfas7

Works great as an external display for my MBP (mid 2010)!


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> Problem is that "Perfect Picture" displays aren't actually guaranteed 0 dead pixels. All they do is glance over it and if they spot a few, they swap it for another one. And that doesn't count that some may form during transit.


Dead pixels form during transit? Is this from physical damage?

Anyways, it seems like you have a better chance of getting a pixel perfect display if you go with the Catleap. I'm basing this on the number of reviews I've seen. Also you don't see any eBay sellers offering pixel perfect 27" CrossOvers.


----------



## nefx

Hi guys! Anybody bought crossover with tempered glass? I want order one, but haven't any fotos and reviews. Which matrix is in tempered glass versions? B1\B2 or CA?


----------



## sbuck333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Update for all those stuck in customs, apparently if something gets flagged for duty processing there is only one part time employee who handles it. Monitors should not be in duty processing, it's a mistake.


I think they finally made it out of customs on Friday, mine finally departed the dreaded Chicago customs (no offense to Chicago)


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edo101*
> 
> So how do all three stack up against each other? CATLEAP vs. Crossover Vs Shim?
> I want to buy one of these around summer time


Crossover has a metal back/much better stand (LED-P) but it is pricier.


----------



## tarek2012

hi guys, i just receive my crossover 27q from Korea today this screen is awesome thank you for the advice, but i have a stuck green pixel in the middle of the screen witch is annoying as my wallpaper is black (i can see it only on black background) i run http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html for like 2 hours but with no suces i try to message it a little bit , but this green pixel is always here, please advice if it can be fix and how i can fix it, thx in advance.
I should mention that for 408$ shipped to Dubai with Fedex i dont ming the stuck pixel


----------



## ACallander

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=How%20to%20fix%20a%20stuck%20pixel


----------



## derfer

My friend just got one of these. Is all that's required a power supply cable?


----------



## Jarobata

Crossover arrived. Excellent condition, one dead pixel in the upper left right, logo came off a little bit, and a small nick in the bottom of the sill. Overall I'm thrilled. I'm using a transformer and its working great. Worth every penny.

As far as graphics go, I turned all AA off and put arthroscopic filtering down to 1x and I'm still getting over 60 FPS on ultra playing BF3 so don't be afraid of this monitor if you have ~1.3GB of video memory like I do

EDIT: Nvm, Apparently the new logo just looks like that.

EDIT 2: I do get dips below 60 from time to time but it's not much of a bother


----------



## tarek2012

i try software for 2 hours and i try the message (for 5 minutes) but this stuck pixel dont want to go away loool


----------



## Wage

Tarek, do you not realize that some stuck/dead pixels cannot be fixed? Whoever convinced you of anything else was lying or just happened to get lucky with their panel.


----------



## bobn4burton

Just from reading this thread and from user reports i've seen...it seems like its more common to get stuck/dead pixels with the crossovers than catleaps. Its unfortunate because the crossover's look better aesthetically and have better stands.

I wonder why the crossovers have had such a price premium over the catleaps/achieva's? Are you just paying for better case? You definitely aren't paying for better chance at getting a pixel perfect monitor.

No data to back it up...but if almost seems that 50-60 percent of people of some sort of stuck/dead pixel on their monitor and 40-50 percent get a pixel perfect one. The catleaps seem to be getting about 70-80 percent pixel perfect...


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Just from reading this thread and from user reports i've seen...it seems like its more common to get stuck/dead pixels with the crossovers than catleaps. Its unfortunate because the crossover's look better aesthetically and have better stands.
> I wonder why the crossovers have had such a price premium over the catleaps/achieva's? Are you just paying for better case? You definitely aren't paying for better chance at getting a pixel perfect monitor.
> No data to back it up...but if almost seems that 50-60 percent of people of some sort of stuck/dead pixel on their monitor and 40-50 percent get a pixel perfect one. The catleaps seem to be getting about 70-80 percent pixel perfect...


bob,

Please keep in mind that not everyone who purchases either model has bothered to make comments about it in the forum. It could just be that the Crossover customers are more vocal about their complaints than the CatLeap ones. What's more, at least on OCN there have been many more Catleap purchases than there have been Crossover, so while the same number of people may have gotten bad panels, more may have gotten good panels (eventually) from Catleaps. Just some things to think about.


----------



## tarek2012

Ya i know not all stuck pixel can be removed, maybe 10 to 20% of stuck pixels can be remove, i will not send it back because the stuck pixel is only visible on dark background and to pay 400$ for a monitor that coast 1000$ it is sure that it have some kind of problem. Thank you Wage for saying that not all stuck pixel can be removed because people should know before buying what the risks are, for now i have to live with stuck green pixel in the middle of my display


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Just from reading this thread and from user reports i've seen...it seems like its more common to get stuck/dead pixels with the crossovers than catleaps. Its unfortunate because the crossover's look better aesthetically and have better stands.
> 
> I wonder why the crossovers have had such a price premium over the catleaps/achieva's? Are you just paying for better case? You definitely aren't paying for better chance at getting a pixel perfect monitor.
> 
> No data to back it up...but if almost seems that 50-60 percent of people of some sort of stuck/dead pixel on their monitor and 40-50 percent get a pixel perfect one. The catleaps seem to be getting about 70-80 percent pixel perfect...


You are paying for a much better quality enclosure and adjustable stand. Well worth it IMO.


----------



## nefx

Guys. Anybody received tempered glass monitor? I want buy one, but need more photos. Pls help.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Just from reading this thread and from user reports i've seen...it seems like its more common to get stuck/dead pixels with the crossovers than catleaps. Its unfortunate because the crossover's look better aesthetically and have better stands.
> I wonder why the crossovers have had such a price premium over the catleaps/achieva's? Are you just paying for better case? You definitely aren't paying for better chance at getting a pixel perfect monitor.
> No data to back it up...but if almost seems that 50-60 percent of people of some sort of stuck/dead pixel on their monitor and 40-50 percent get a pixel perfect one. The catleaps seem to be getting about 70-80 percent pixel perfect...


I've been reading these threads for a month now and from what I saw up to now, the Catleaps seem to have a higher percentage of screens with dead pixel. And their stands are so unstable.

Thats why I pulled the trigger on three CrossOver 27Q Led-P and I have no dead or stuckk pixel in the screens I have, The stand is very stable and the look of the casing is awsome.

I know I did a good choice for 30$ more


----------



## Loyrl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Its Led Strip Bars from Ikea,
> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50192365/
> A lot of wires but I manage to hide them all.


Nice, I didn't see those when I got mine. Mine are small circular discs, it looks like yours are brighter than mine =(


----------



## Sazexa

I've been lurking this thread for a while, and decided to join this site because of it.

I've got to say, the CrossOver is by far the most attractive and, seemingly, the best of all three in my opinion.

I'm considering buying one soon, and forgive me for being picky, but does anyone know if there is any way I can contact sellers and try to get one with the older logo, where the C reaches to the O?


----------



## MaxGlobin

There are currently 7 auctions selling the crossover; can anyone recommend the specific seller to purchase from? Also why does the brightness vary?

DC Samsung Mall (includes free usa power adapter / brightness: 350)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-/320866235396?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51e3404#ht_14072wt_952

Green-Sum (brightness: 380)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-HD-2560X1440-S-IPS-DVI-QHD-Pivot-Computer-Monitor-/140729321245?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41f071d#ht_13630wt_1102

TA-Planet (brightness: 380)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-PC-MONITOR-DVI-D-DUAL-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-PIVOT-TILT-/320878438026?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab5d8668a#ht_7242wt_952

Red-Cap (brightness: 420)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27-27Q-LED-P-PIVOT-DVI-D-S-IPS-2560-x-1440-Computer-PC-Monitor-/220976981479?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item33734125e7#ht_10675wt_1185

Dream-Seller (brightness: 380)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-/320865620246?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab514d116#ht_8025wt_952

Samsun-Korea (brightness: 350)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Wide-Monitor-/120880807417?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c250ebdf9#ht_5994wt_1185

Cool-Guys (brightness: 380)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27QLED-P-IVOT-DVI-D-S-IPS-2560x1440-27-LED-Monitor-/160767497572?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item256e7d5564#ht_12913wt_952


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've been lurking this thread for a while, and decided to join this site because of it.
> I've got to say, the CrossOver is by far the most attractive and, seemingly, the best of all three in my opinion.
> I'm considering buying one soon, and forgive me for being picky, but does anyone know if there is any way I can contact sellers and try to get one with the older logo, where the C reaches to the O?


Contact them through eBay. You can send them a message there.


----------



## tianh

been massaging my screen and running pixel repairer for two days, nothing


----------



## tarek2012

tianh, my crossover have a stuck pixel in the middle of the screen very anoying when watching video or on dark background, i try to fix it but no luck
I think if all stuck pixel can be fixed the price of the crossover will be different, i think those panel are defective from factory and unrepairble, for some people they receive a perfect display with no dead or stuck pixel in this case the display have another Problem that we dont know.
What i want to say is that all those panel are defective, thats why its half price.


----------



## Wage

This is correct, tarek, which is why all of these Korean panels are A- and not A+ like domestic equivalents. You can expect something wrong with all of them, even if that flaw isn't something you can see with your eyes. Basically, the panels that didn't pass inspection for regular sales is now being resold to us. One man's trash is another man's treasure, but I definitely wouldn't be purchasing one of these for any color-sensitive business work.


----------



## Stab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> This is correct, tarek, which is why all of these Korean panels are A- and not A+ like domestic equivalents. You can expect something wrong with all of them, even if that flaw isn't something you can see with your eyes. Basically, the panels that didn't pass inspection for regular sales is now being resold to us. One man's trash is another man's treasure, but I definitely wouldn't be purchasing one of these for any color-sensitive business work.


You're probably right, but it then it is amazing that so many people post here about their 'flawless' monitor...
So what exactly are the demands for a panel to be classified as A+ or A- ?

And are there also B and C panels??


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stab*
> 
> You're probably right, but it then it is amazing that so many people post here about their 'flawless' monitor...
> So what exactly are the demands for a panel to be classified as A+ or A- ?
> And are there also B and C panels??


If we knew that, we probably wouldn't be so excited about these. Kinda like when you know exactly what's in the fast food you're putting into your mouth, how the animal was (mis)treated and how it was prepared...


----------



## Stab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> If we knew that, we probably wouldn't be so excited about these. Kinda like when you know exactly what's in the fast food you're putting into your mouth, how the animal was (mis)treated and how it was prepared...


Haha.

That's a rather negative assumption. Maybe it is the opposite and are the demands for an A+ panel so high, that even a A- is of very good quality...

Well, we probably won't know. But due to the high number of people with a spotless panel, I dare to be a bit more optimistic until proven otherwise


----------



## Cukies

I can't wait till I buy this monitor!!

I just have to wait 2 more weeks till my next paycheck comes along


----------



## Sazexa

Waiting 'til Monday to hear from Dream-Seller. I'll ask others, too.

I'd have probably ordered it sooner, but I'm going on vacation in a couple of days and don't need to have that package sit on my front door for a 10 days.


----------



## MaxGlobin

Is anyone selling tested monitors with 0 dead pixels for an extra ~$60? I think there were a few auctions with that option a week or two ago....


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaxGlobin*
> 
> Is anyone selling tested monitors with 0 dead pixels for an extra ~$60? I think there were a few auctions with that option a week or two ago....


Are you not referring to the "Pixel Perfect" option almost every seller has now? It's no longer a full $60 premium over non-Pixel Perfect versions, but it's still there if you want. Keep in mind, though, that many people purchasing these factory-tested units have still received units with dead or stuck pixels in them.


----------



## Rizyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaxGlobin*
> 
> Is anyone selling tested monitors with 0 dead pixels for an extra ~$60? I think there were a few auctions with that option a week or two ago....


The $60 you pay is for them to check for dead pixel, and if it falls within the acceptable guidelines on their listing, they will still send it to you. There are no 0 dead pixel guarantee that you can purchase.


----------



## jakemfbacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> Crossover arrived. Excellent condition, one dead pixel in the upper left right, logo came off a little bit, and a small nick in the bottom of the sill. Overall I'm thrilled. I'm using a transformer and its working great. Worth every penny.
> As far as graphics go, I turned all AA off and put arthroscopic filtering down to 1x and I'm still getting over 60 FPS on ultra playing BF3 so don't be afraid of this monitor if you have ~1.3GB of video memory like I do
> EDIT: Nvm, Apparently the new logo just looks like that.
> EDIT 2: I do get dips below 60 from time to time but it's not much of a bother


does it still look good without the AA? Why do these resolutions not need much AA?


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> bob,
> Please keep in mind that not everyone who purchases either model has bothered to make comments about it in the forum. It could just be that the Crossover customers are more vocal about their complaints than the CatLeap ones. What's more, at least on OCN there have been many more Catleap purchases than there have been Crossover, so while the same number of people may have gotten bad panels, more may have gotten good panels (eventually) from Catleaps. Just some things to think about.


Agreed...

And for what its worth...I just ordered four more (already received my first). One one of the additional four will be for me and three more for my buddy. Even with a stuck pixel, I couldn't be happier with my purchase.


----------



## bobn4burton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarek2012*
> 
> Ya i know not all stuck pixel can be removed, maybe 10 to 20% of stuck pixels can be remove, i will not send it back because the stuck pixel is only visible on dark background and to pay 400$ for a monitor that coast 1000$ it is sure that it have some kind of problem. Thank you Wage for saying that not all stuck pixel can be removed because people should know before buying what the risks are, for now i have to live with stuck green pixel in the middle of my display


When I got my monitor, I had a stuck red pixel. It was actually quite noticeable...I picked it out even on a high color picture background (wallpaper of saltwater fish with corals in the background). In fact, it was so big and prominent I am thinking it must have been 4 pixels all right next to each other that were stuck red. I massaged mine for 1-2 minutes every day and ran a pixel repair tool on it for about a week (not 100% on time cuz my monitor would go to sleep after 30 min of activity). After a week of doing that, my stuck pixel had shrunk a TON. Now...it is still there but I can't hardly see it. With an all black background I can barely see it from about 12 inches away.

So mine didn't go away completely (some of the pixels in cluster did), but it did get much less to the point that it doesn't bother me in the slightest.


----------



## tarek2012

Wage, i work in webdesign not printing or photo work but i agree with you that this monitor is not for color demanding work like video editing or photography, but for my need i think i can calibrated with nvidia panel (make it more warm).
But the main thing is that everyone should think before purchasing this display about the risk, i think this display is very nice for the price but you should expect that its not a perfect monitor.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> When I got my monitor, I had a stuck red pixel. It was actually quite noticeable...I picked it out even on a high color picture background (wallpaper of saltwater fish with corals in the background). In fact, it was so big and prominent I am thinking it must have been 4 pixels all right next to each other that were stuck red. I massaged mine for 1-2 minutes every day and ran a pixel repair tool on it for about a week (not 100% on time cuz my monitor would go to sleep after 30 min of activity). After a week of doing that, my stuck pixel had shrunk a TON. Now...it is still there but I can't hardly see it. With an all black background I can barely see it from about 12 inches away.
> So mine didn't go away completely (some of the pixels in cluster did), but it did get much less to the point that it doesn't bother me in the slightest.


Massage method worked for releasing stuck pixels.

Another good reason not to get the Glass option.. unless you have no problem with taking it off to massage the screen.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarek2012*
> 
> Wage, i work in webdesign not printing or photo work but i agree with you that this monitor is not for color demanding work like video editing or photography, but for my need i think i can calibrated with nvidia panel (make it more warm).
> But the main thing is that everyone should think before purchasing this display about the risk, i think this display is very nice for the price but you should expect that its not a perfect monitor.


If I got one of these it would be for painting, photography, and gaming. Is there anything besides a dead pixel or two (my current monitor has 4, with approximately the same pixel density, and I can deal with it) that can't be fixed with a color calibrator?


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> If I got one of these it would be for painting, photography, and gaming. Is there anything besides a dead pixel or two (my current monitor has 4, with approximately the same pixel density, and I can deal with it) that can't be fixed with a color calibrator?


Backlight bleed? Uniformity? Customer service in case your panel goes dead or screws up and you need a replacement immediately?

I'm not even a graphics professional yet know the small amount that's needed in order to point those few things out. There's a big difference between buying these A- panels for personal use (which you most obviously would be using it for) and professional use.

It's as simple as the difference between buying that bargain scanner and another which costs 10x as much as scans 20x as fast. One is overkill for home use, the other you could possibly get away with in a professional environment if you ignore things like productivity worsening, the slower productivity costing you money, and that time lost costing you more than what you initially saved. No one was claiming these aren't great panels for personal painting, or personal photography, but if you have money for a good colorimeter ($300+) and actually do professional graphics/design work on a monitor all day long then you can likely afford a domestic A+ panel and the warranty and support that comes with it.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Backlight bleed? Uniformity? Customer service in case your panel goes dead or screws up and you need a replacement immediately?
> I'm not even a graphics professional yet know the small amount that's needed in order to point those few things out. There's a big difference between buying these A- panels for personal use (which you most obviously would be using it for) and professional use.
> It's as simple as the difference between buying that bargain scanner and another which costs 10x as much as scans 20x as fast. One is overkill for home use, the other you could possibly get away with in a professional environment if you ignore things like productivity worsening, the slower productivity costing you money, and that time lost costing you more than what you initially saved. No one was claiming these aren't great panels for personal painting, or personal photography, but if you have money for a good colorimeter ($300+) and actually do professional graphics/design work on a monitor all day long then you can likely afford a domestic A+ panel and the warranty and support that comes with it.


I'm just a student and am looking at these because I can't afford an A+ panel, and have access to a colorimeter. The warranties seem good enough; if you get a DOA panel you can send it back, if you get an abundance of dead pixels you can send it back. I haven't seen anyone post about significant backlight bleed.
Not saying I have to have one of these, just want other opinions.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jakemfbacon*
> 
> does it still look good without the AA? Why do these resolutions not need much AA?


Because you don't notice a difference.

On my current 27", by Samsung that displays 1920 x 1080, I literally CAN NOT tell the difference between 0x, 2x, and 4x AA.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Because you don't notice a difference.
> On my current 27", by Samsung that displays 1920 x 1080, I literally CAN NOT tell the difference between 0x, 2x, and 4x AA.


That sounds like a game that doesn't support AA. At 27" on a mere 1080p 2/4/8x should make a very visible difference. 16 can be hard to spot, but aside from just amount there's the type, and FXAA/MLAA, which all make a considerable IQ difference.


----------



## KaRLiToS

@ derfer

I tested a lot of games on my 1440p panels and you don't see any difference between any type of AA or AA Off. The only differences you see is the number of frame per second you get after turning it off.


----------



## Wage

What is "a lot of games"? Please list specific titles, otherwise I call BS, user error, partial blindness or all of the above









I cannot tell the difference between high levels of AA, but there's always a difference between 0xAA and 2xAA. Always.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> That sounds like a game that doesn't support AA. At 27" on a mere 1080p 2/4/8x should make a very visible difference. 16 can be hard to spot, but aside from just amount there's the type, and FXAA/MLAA, which all make a considerable IQ difference.


The game was Battlefield 3.

And with the filter set to x16, MSAA at x0, x2, and x4 all looks completely the same.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Update on my triple crossover setup



Added some speaker stands that I built my self, because I needed custom height stands


----------



## Wage

Assuming the other guy was also testing under BF3, you guys do realize what the AA Post and AA Deferred settings mean, right?

Visual example: http://www.overclock.net/t/1189461/bf3-deferred-anti-aliasing-vs-anti-aliasing-post-comparison-or-why-you-should-stop-using-msaa/0_100

By tweaking one or the other only, you may have had Post on High constantly and only been tweaking Deferred, for example. Just double checkin here...

Post is much more dramatic than Deferred, and what I'd consider reminiscent of typical "AA" settings in most games. If you cannot see the difference between Post off and Post Low at 1440p, please get some glasses. Deferred is much more tricky, and I don't play BF3 enough to know exactly what it does, but in loading a test campaign right now the difference between Post settings is obvious to these eyes, at least between Off and On.


----------



## Sazexa

KaRLiToS, all three of your CrossOver's are perfect picture, right?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Yes they are, but I see a couple of difference in the color, I'll have to adjust that, I just need to find out how and with which programs or tools.


----------



## Wage

And a much better explanation, should you guys both be testing AA on BF3:

http://www.geforce.com/Optimize/Guides/battlefield-3-tweak-guide/#9

But seriously, in other games I find it much more obvious (TF2 for example) when going from straight 0xAA to 2xAA


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Assuming the other guy was also testing under BF3, you guys do realize what the AA Post and AA Deferred settings mean, right?
> Visual example: http://www.overclock.net/t/1189461/bf3-deferred-anti-aliasing-vs-anti-aliasing-post-comparison-or-why-you-should-stop-using-msaa/0_100
> By tweaking one or the other only, you may have had Post on High constantly and only been tweaking Deferred, for example. Just double checkin here...
> Post is much more dramatic than Deferred, and what I'd consider reminiscent of typical "AA" settings in most games. If you cannot see the difference between Post off and Post Low at 1440p, please get some glasses. Deferred is much more tricky, and I don't play BF3 enough to know exactly what it does, but in loading a test campaign right now the difference between Post settings is obvious to these eyes, at least between Off and On.


My vision is 20/20, and I sit right in front on the monitor. ~~ 1 to 2.5 feet.
I don't remember which setting, but it only has options available on my computer for 0x MSAA, 2x MSAA, and 4x MSAA. The only noticable difference I see between these is that objects in the very, very far off background get a bit more of a definite outline. Most games AA seems to make a large impact on, but for this game at higher resolutions I feel it doesn't. I can see the difference on my laptop pretty well (When playing in 1366 x 768). I haven't tried to see in 1600 x 900 on my laptop. But, as I said, I've only noticed a real applicable difference while in 1366 x 768.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Yes they are, but I see a couple of difference in the color, I'll have to adjust that, I just need to find out how and with which programs or tools.


That's fine with me. I'm look for the space on the screen. I'd love to have that. Plus, I like having resolutions matching their screen. IE; 21.5" @ 1920 x 1080, 20" @ 1600 x 900. Or, having the pixels sort of packed in more dense than their native size, such as my laptops 13.3" that displays 1600 x 900.

I guess I just don't like stretching the pixels haha.

I will more thank likely attempt to calibrate the color myself, as photography is a hobby of mine. But it's not a business/income source, so if the colors are off a bit I won't really care.


----------



## Decipher

Super jealous seeing all the working setups!

Here's another update on my deal. Dream-Seller suggested I pick up another card, so I found a cheap 6450 and gave that a shot. No dice. It's apparent that this monitor is defective, so I emailed DS again. Received this in response.
Quote:


> ...We have sent an email to manufacturers about the monitor problem that you have now. We assume that we will receive a reply from them tomorrow. So once we receive a reply, we are going to send you a message with their reply. Would that be okay with you?
> If you have any other question or ideas, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to minimize your loss as far as we can...


I'm not sure what he meant by minimizing my losses since I won't be paying $100 to ship this DOA back to Korea. At this point, I just want to return it and get my money back.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Super jealous seeing all the working setups!
> Here's another update on my deal. Dream-Seller suggested I pick up another card, so I found a cheap 6450 and gave that a shot. No dice. It's apparent that this monitor is defective, so I emailed DS again. Received this in response.
> I'm not sure what he meant by minimizing my losses since I won't be paying $100 to ship this DOA back to Korea. At this point, I just want to return it and get my money back.


If they tell you that you need to pay them for shipping, either tell them it's completely unacceptable (it is a South Korean company, you may have to 'take what you get') or try to make a deal where you pay for shipping back, and they pay for the shipping on the new one they send you.


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Super jealous seeing all the working setups!
> Here's another update on my deal. Dream-Seller suggested I pick up another card, so I found a cheap 6450 and gave that a shot. No dice. It's apparent that this monitor is defective, so I emailed DS again. Received this in response.
> I'm not sure what he meant by minimizing my losses since I won't be paying $100 to ship this DOA back to Korea. At this point, I just want to return it and get my money back.


What the heck?! I'm definitely never buying from dream seller if he's going to act like return shipping on a DOA is the buyer's responsibility. I seriously hope you don't let this guy jerk you around, because Paypal and eBay have your back on this. You didn't get what you paid for, so he needs to either fix that or give you your money back in full.

Also, keep in mind that they pay for much less shipping costs than you do. Don't pay a cent on shipping either way. If they want the panel back, they can pay to ship it. Is the guy above me serious or is he saying he'd pay $100 more for a monitor he should've gotten the first time? >_> seriously, just ***


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> What the heck?! I'm definitely never buying from dream seller if he's going to act like return shipping on a DOA is the buyer's responsibility. I seriously hope you don't let this guy jerk you around, because Paypal and eBay have your back on this. You didn't get what you paid for, so he needs to either fix that or give you your money back in full.
> Also, keep in mind that they pay for much less shipping costs than you do. Don't pay a cent on shipping either way. If they want the panel back, they can pay to ship it. Is the guy above me serious or is he saying he'd pay $100 more for a monitor he should've gotten the first time? >_> seriously, just ***


I completely disagree, buyer is pretty much always responsible for return shipping. He's not inspecting these monitors, they are brand new in box when we get them. Even big name retailers in the US make you responsible for return shipping, they pay to ship the replacement to you but you have to pay to ship the defective part to them. I would pay the money to ship it to him and he'll ship you a new one. You're either paying 500 for a monitor or losing 100 and getting nothing. 500 for this thing is still a good deal IMO.


----------



## Wage

Excuse me? No, that's not how it works, especially not on eBay. If I get a DOA part that was bought as brand new, then no, the seller is paying for shipping. This isn't some used videocard we're talking about here, and it wasn't damaged in shipping either. No idea which rock you crawled out from under, but that's not even how it works when you buy something at a store. But hey, if you want to give $100 to this guy out of the kindness of your heart, go right ahead. According to Paypal and eBay, the buyer doesn't owe a single cent and will be refunded their money unless the issue is resolved happily.

I'm all for sellers making their money, as I in fact am an eBay seller, but the way some of you guys just let people walk all over you makes me sick.


----------



## Decipher

I wouldn't have a problem paying shipping if I was returning it due to dead pixels, the calibration wasn't to my liking, or if it was just too big. If the panel works but not to my personal preference, I will more than happily pay for return shipping to return/exchange the panel.

BUT, this is an outright DOA. I tried everything that was suggested by the seller. I plugged it in as the only monitor, I switched which DVI ports were used, I switch DVI cables, I purchased a new video card, and purchased a transformer to support the US. I would say that I've done my part in trying to get this monitor to work and I REALLY want this to work haha. The last thing I want to do is return this beauty, but it's obvious that there aren't any other options.

I just feel that the seller is, unfortunately, going to have to eat the cost for this particular sale.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> I wouldn't have a problem paying shipping if I was returning it due to dead pixels, the calibration wasn't to my liking, or if it was just too big. If the panel works but not to my personal preference, I will more than happily pay for return shipping to return/exchange the panel.
> BUT, this is an outright DOA. I tried everything that was suggested by the seller. I plugged it in as the only monitor, I switched which DVI ports were used, I switch DVI cables, I purchased a new video card, and purchased a transformer to support the US. I would say that I've done my part in trying to get this monitor to work and I REALLY want this to work haha. The last thing I want to do is return this beauty, but it's obvious that there aren't any other options.
> I just feel that the seller is, unfortunately, going to have to eat the cost for this particular sale.


What did the seller do wrong to warrant eating the cost? He sent you a brand new part as you ordered. Technically I think you should be taking this up with the manufacturer, not with the seller. I'd be very upset if I were you but unfortunately it's the risk you take ordering from overseas. I don't think you have any recourse. He could choose to try and please you for good feedback but I think eBay will tell you to ship it back if you want a refund or a replacement, they won't return the full amount.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Excuse me? No, that's not how it works, especially not on eBay. If I get a DOA part that was bought as brand new, then no, the seller is paying for shipping. This isn't some used videocard we're talking about here, and it wasn't damaged in shipping either. No idea which rock you crawled out from under, but that's not even how it works when you buy something at a store. But hey, if you want to give $100 to this guy out of the kindness of your heart, go right ahead. According to Paypal and eBay, the buyer doesn't owe a single cent and will be refunded their money unless the issue is resolved happily.
> I'm all for sellers making their money, as I in fact am an eBay seller, but the way some of you guys just let people walk all over you makes me sick.


I'll take a look at the eBay policy when I get a chance, if you can find evidence to support your stance I welcome it.


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> I wouldn't have a problem paying shipping if I was returning it due to dead pixels, the calibration wasn't to my liking, or if it was just too big. If the panel works but not to my personal preference, I will more than happily pay for return shipping to return/exchange the panel.
> BUT, this is an outright DOA. I tried everything that was suggested by the seller. I plugged it in as the only monitor, I switched which DVI ports were used, I switch DVI cables, I purchased a new video card, and purchased a transformer to support the US. I would say that I've done my part in trying to get this monitor to work and I REALLY want this to work haha. The last thing I want to do is return this beauty, but it's obvious that there aren't any other options.
> *I just feel that the seller is, unfortunately, going to have to eat the cost for this particular sale.*


As would any domestic seller in this situation. It's a fact of life for sellers, and one which he'll take out on his supplier, not the customer. Or at least I would hope so, otherwise word will spread quickly.

I just don't understand the logic in reasoning that it's okay for a buyer to pay return shipping on a DOA. Do you pay Zappos return shipping if they ship you the wrong pair of shoes? Do you give a restaurant twice as much money if they mess up your food and have to cook another meal? Do you pay for administrative fees when you get overcharged on a plane ticket? If the answer to any of these is "yes", then congratulations for going through life as a doormat.

And Jarobata, don't hold your breath on whatever it is you think I need to prove to you. It's called common sense. Look it up.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> What the heck?! I'm definitely never buying from dream seller if he's going to act like return shipping on a DOA is the buyer's responsibility. I seriously hope you don't let this guy jerk you around, because Paypal and eBay have your back on this. You didn't get what you paid for, so he needs to either fix that or give you your money back in full.
> Also, keep in mind that they pay for much less shipping costs than you do. Don't pay a cent on shipping either way. If they want the panel back, they can pay to ship it. Is the guy above me serious or is he saying he'd pay $100 more for a monitor he should've gotten the first time? >_> seriously, just ***


And what if they DON'T support him?

He can either pay ~~$75 to ship it back and get a new one, keep a useless $390 defective item, or return it and only receive 85% of his original cash. (Would be losing about $50)

I'd rather pay an extra $25, if need be, to get a working one.

But, hopefully either Dream-Seller will work with you, or the e-bay/paypal team will support you and compensate you accordingly.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> As would any domestic seller in this situation. It's a fact of life for sellers, and one which he'll take out on his supplier, not the customer. Or at least I would hope so, otherwise word will spread quickly.
> I just don't understand the logic in reasoning that it's okay for a buyer to pay return shipping on a DOA. Do you pay Zappos return shipping if they ship you the wrong pair of shoes? Do you give a restaurant twice as much money if they mess up your food and have to cook another meal? Do you pay for administrative fees when you get overcharged on a plane ticket? If the answer to any of these is "yes", then congratulations for going through life as a doormat.
> And Jarobata, don't hold your breath on whatever it is you think I need to prove to you. It's called common sense. Look it up.


http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/item-not-received.html

Please see lower on the page:

"A full refund is one that covers the cost of the item and original shipping. If you've received an item and want a full refund, you'll usually need to send the item back to the seller."

Please do your research before being rude.


----------



## craptastic7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Update on my triple crossover setup
> 
> Added some speaker stands that I built my self, because I needed custom height stands


Which displayport to dl-dvi adapters did you use to get these going at 7680 x 1440? Did you use th Accel ones that AMD recommends?


----------



## Wage

Yes, if he wants a refund instead of a replacement, not if he simply wants what he paid for.

Try reading what I wrote before putting words in my mouth.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Yes, if he wants a refund instead of a replacement, not if he simply wants what he paid for.
> Try reading what I wrote before putting words in my mouth.


When did I put words in your mouth and why do you think replacement is different? If you want to have a dialog I'm open to it but all you are doing is talking trash and not supporting what you're saying with facts. I'm not guaranteeing I'm right but I'm the only one bringing facts to the table.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Yes, if he wants a refund instead of a replacement, not if he simply wants what he paid for.
> Try reading what I wrote before putting words in my mouth.


As further evidence, assuming he purchased from this listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Computer-Monitor-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot?item=320865620246&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7600237096291704230#rpdId

He specifies specifically that the buyer pays return shipping.

His other Crossover listing also specifies this.


----------



## Wage

Yes, an irrelevant fact that does not apply to this situation and taken out of context of a longer list of rules.

Look, I really don't have time to flip the switch that's most obviously off right now, and unlike some people, I actually have a life and things to do today which don't involve proving points which need not be proven. If you really do not or cannot see what I'm talking about, then do us both a favor: Google it. In fact, google everything I've said. Or better yet, call up eBay and ask THEM who would be responsible, given the "facts" that apply to this situation. But you've done nothing here but waste my time by picking a single statement from eBay's long list of rules and applied it here as if to debunk anything I've said (when it fact it helps it, should you bother to read the rest of their policies).

Fact: buyer is not liable if the item is received broken
Fact: Buyer in this case received item which was not intact/DOA/broken
Fact: Regardless of whether or not insurance was paid on the item, that is there to cover the seller's ass, not the buyer's
Fact: Paypal is notorious for taking the buyer's side in almost every case, whether the customer is right or not.
Fact: The only thing Decipher has to worry about is getting someone as informed as you on the phone when he calls eBay up to complain.
Fact: eBay and Paypal policies override anything written in an auction, whether it's explicitly stated that "no returns are accepted" or not. That's about the easiest Google search one can make, if you don't believe me (which I'm sure you don't, but at this point that's beyond help).

Fact: There are just some things you cannot fix.


----------



## SmaShTr

Wage, you need to calm down, buddy. You are absolutely wrong on this one. Ebay rules are clear in the sense that the buyer must return the items in order to get a full refund, at HIS EXPENSE. Then the seller MUST refund the item + shipping cost (which in this case it doesn't matter since it's already included in the price). Obviously most sellers will try to keep the customer happy and eat the $10 shipping cost when they realize it was a defective item, but in this case, it would cost the seller $100+ to do this.

The best thing to do in this case is to try to work out a deal where he partially refunds you (maybe $20-$30) and gives you in exchange a "Pixel Perfect" equivalent of what you purchased. Since those are factory checked, you have a really small chance of getting another DOA.


----------



## Wage

Are you blind, Smash, or do you just not have any experience with commercial shipping whatsoever? I've already stated that these sellers do not pay the same shipping rates as a consumer would, and if you actually believe it costs them $100 to ship a monitor then you probably also believe that all of our tax dollars go to just causes. Who am I talking to, college students? These are basic things which apply to any small business, regardless of country, and which are essential in order for sellers of vast quantities on eBay to survive.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Yes, an irrelevant fact that does not apply to this situation and taken out of context of a longer list of rules.
> Look, I really don't have time to flip the switch that's most obviously off right now, and unlike some people, I actually have a life and things to do today which don't involve proving points which need not be proven. If you really do not or cannot see what I'm talking about, then do us both a favor: Google it. In fact, google everything I've said. Or better yet, call up eBay and ask THEM who would be responsible, given the "facts" that apply to this situation. But you've done nothing here but waste my time by picking a single statement from eBay's long list of rules and applied it here as if to debunk anything I've said (when it fact it helps it, should you bother to read the rest of their policies).
> Fact: buyer is not liable if the item is received broken
> Fact: Buyer in this case received item which was not intact/DOA/broken
> Fact: Regardless of whether or not insurance was paid on the item, that is there to cover the seller's ass, not the buyer's
> Fact: Paypal is notorious for taking the buyer's side in almost every case, whether the customer is right or not.
> Fact: The only thing Decipher has to worry about is getting someone as informed as you on the phone when he calls eBay up to complain.
> Fact: eBay and Paypal policies override anything written in an auction, whether it's explicitly stated that "no returns are accepted" or not. That's about the easiest Google search one can make, if you don't believe me (which I'm sure you don't, but at this point that's beyond help).
> Fact: There are just some things you cannot fix.


I would get on eBay chat but I'm guessing even if the eBay support person agreed with me, you would just say they are wrong as well. When I asked for facts I didn't mean I wanted you to put Fact: in front of everything you're saying, I wanted you to point to an eBay policy supporting your argument. I may not be the best Googler but I have yet to find a single piece of hard evidence supporting your case.


----------



## SmaShTr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Are you blind, Smash, or do you just not have any experience with commercial shipping whatsoever? I've already stated that these sellers do not pay the same shipping rates as a consumer would, and if you actually believe it costs them $100 to ship a monitor then you probably also believe that all of our tax dollars go to just causes. Who am I talking to, college students? These are basic things which apply to any small business, regardless of country, and which are essential in order for sellers of vast quantities on eBay to survive.


It doesn't matter if they pay $100 or not. That's besides the point. The rule is quite simple, buyer pays to ship the item back, even in the case of a DOA.

A simple Google check will lead you to the right direction:
http://answercenter.ebay.com/question/Packaging-Shipping/Doa-Item/1000304937

If you open up a dispute, the first thing they will ask is that you send the item back. Then they'll take your side and make sure you get what you paid for back, NOT INCLUDING THE SHIPPING YOU PAID TO GET IT BACK TO THE SELLER.

That's the huge risk of purchasing items from overseas. Why is this so hard for you to comprehend? Not exactly rocket science, buddy.


----------



## Decipher

I didn't mean to start anything between anyone and definitely didn't mean to incite arguments among the community. My views align with those that Wage has, but I can see where everyone else is coming from.

Like I said, if it was anything but an out of box DOA, I would be more than happy to pay for shipping. In this case though, not only did I get sent a DOA, I was also told to purchase a new video card to get this monitor to work. I shouldn't have to spend an additional $150 - $200 just to get a monitor working when the page didn't say anything about incompatible video cards in the first place. Sure, I can spend $60 and pick up a 6450, but then I just spent $60 for something that's not even close to as powerful as my 470. Really? That's fair?

When it comes to selling stuff, it's best to just eat the cost sometimes. I'm not trying to exploit a hole in the system or anything close to that. The thing is, if I have to pay for shipping, I won't be purchasing another item from DS. If anyone is looking for one of these monitors, for example, I won't be recommending DS. He'll lose more than "$100" of future business since I'm a firm believer of voting with your wallet. If he pays for the return shipping, I'll remember that and tell people what a great experience it was working with him. I would even go back to purchase from him if I needed something in the future because I know that he's one of the good guys.

I'm not saying anyone's opinion is wrong; it just doesn't align with mine.


----------



## Sazexa

So, aside from the massive ****-storming...

Anyone have any ides what FPS I can expect to get?

I've got an i5 2500k and CrossFireX 6950 2GB's.

I get over and about 60 FPS on full ultra now, 1920 x 1080 and 60Hz.


----------



## Dubcraftee

Just ordered mine. I'm living in Baltimore, so we'll see how long for shipping. I'm excited!


----------



## ACallander

Just shot the gun on an order from red-cap. Hopefully it will be all good and get here in quick time!


----------



## TheMadMan697

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> I didn't mean to start anything between anyone and definitely didn't mean to incite arguments among the community. My views align with those that Wage has, but I can see where everyone else is coming from.
> Like I said, if it was anything but an out of box DOA, I would be more than happy to pay for shipping. In this case though, not only did I get sent a DOA, I was also told to purchase a new video card to get this monitor to work. I shouldn't have to spend an additional $150 - $200 just to get a monitor working when the page didn't say anything about incompatible video cards in the first place. Sure, I can spend $60 and pick up a 6450, but then I just spent $60 for something that's not even close to as powerful as my 470. Really? That's fair?
> When it comes to selling stuff, it's best to just eat the cost sometimes. I'm not trying to exploit a hole in the system or anything close to that. The thing is, if I have to pay for shipping, I won't be purchasing another item from DS. If anyone is looking for one of these monitors, for example, I won't be recommending DS. He'll lose more than "$100" of future business since I'm a firm believer of voting with your wallet. If he pays for the return shipping, I'll remember that and tell people what a great experience it was working with him. I would even go back to purchase from him if I needed something in the future because I know that he's one of the good guys.
> I'm not saying anyone's opinion is wrong; it just doesn't align with mine.


*facepalm* I bought one from dream-seller on saturday 7th April and It was marked as dispatched today Monday 9th April (It may not actually be dispatched yet, going by what other people said). Either way I have messaged him requesting a tracking number and I am waiting for a response. I'm sorry to hear that you are having so much trouble. I sure hope this doesn't happen to me. Either way I will be posting back here on my experience with the seller and what I think of the monitor when I get it.


----------



## TheSaints

Ordered from Dcsamsungr Saturday morning. Fed Ex tried to deliver it today but I was not in to sign for it.







Another attempt will be made tomorrow. Now that is fast shipping. It took only two days to make it to Texas.


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSaints*
> 
> Ordered from Dcsamsungr Saturday morning. Fed Ex tried to deliver it today but I was not in to sign for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another attempt will be made tomorrow. Now that is fast shipping. It took only two days to make it to Texas.


Good to hear.. i'm in garland, texas.


----------



## nefx

Guys. Please get me a link for a statistic by crossover tempered glass versions. In Russia nobody bought this. In this theme i don't see glass versions owners. I want glass because it looks like Apple and reflective plastic is looks very cheap.


----------



## ACallander

Get it yourself.. sometimes you need to do the leg work others wont if you want your results you want.


----------



## eneerge

I finally received my Crossover today after a very long delay with shipping (thanks to Chicago facility/customs). Honestly, I was wondering if I would ever receive it or not, and with it taking so long to get here, I wasn't very optimistic about the condition it would be in when it arrived. However, after opening up the box and setting everything up, I am very pleased with what I have received.

First off, I run Linux Mint 12 Lisa. In my mind, I was thinking that if this monitor just worked in Linux, it would be a good buy, because sometimes buying things like this doesn't work well on every platform. I am happy to say that it works at 60hz and the full resolution on Linux Mint Lisa with the AMD Proprietary driver. The AMD driver is a bit horrible, but at least it does pick this monitor up and function properly. I have not noticed any differences in stability between now and when I hooked this monitor up. I hope AMD fixes their drivers soon. I went ahead and added the "export VBLANK CLUTTER_VBLANK=none" to the file /etc/environment. That helped quite a bit with choppyness... That's not exactly crossover related, but could help others who run Linux on AMD.

My current hardware is Intel Sandybridge 2600K/16gb DDR3/AMD Radeon HD6970/Asrock Z68 Pro3-Fatal1ty motherboard. I am running dual monitors, a Dell 24" 2407WFP-HC, and this 27" Crossover.

Dual monitors seem to work fine on Linux. I can move between each screen just like normal. However, I did have to reboot a couple times to get this set up properly, but I didn't have to do any manual file editing, or configuration changes to the driver after hooking up the Crossover.

I did some minor eye calibration to the Dell screen a while back, but the Crossover looks on par or better than the 24" Ultrasharp. After adjusting some of the contrast and brightness settings, I can see even more detail. It's hard to say which one looks better as far as looking at pictures goes. The Crossover definitely has a sharper look to it since it does not have the AG coating like on the Dell. Fonts/Text seems very pristine and clear.

I am using the provided 240V ac-adapter. It's not terribly hot to the touch, however, I may go ahead and buy another one just to be safe. It is warm. It's also extremely bulky.

*Fixes*
While I was writing all of this, I noticed that my Crossover actually was not set to the correct resolution. This resulted in a small band in the bottom left corner of the screen and a disappearing pixel. Text fonts were also a bit jagged and blurry. Now that I went back and made sure the resolution was correct, the banding has went away and fonts are now sharp and crisp. That one little issue fixed all of the annoyances I had with the monitor. No dead pixels. It's flawless!

*Criticisms*

I am not sure why the box says HDMI on it, because it only has DVI. <-- I considered getting a refund because of this. << /sarcasm >>.

Hinge was warped during shipment.

*Summary*
Overall, I'm VERY satisfied that this monitor runs on Linux and after all the hassle with shipping it arrived basically unharmed. I can not orient it vertically, because the hinge is warped and hits the base when I attempt to adjust it. Perhaps thats something to fix if I ever need it, but I don't have any need for bothering with it right now. There is no other monitor available right now, in my opinion, that will give you a better display. After changing the resolution to the native, I had to go back and remove every single criticism I had about this monitor in this post, except for the hinge. I am extremely impressed with the quality of this product. Thank you Dream-seller.

*Pictures from a DroidX* - these were before I adjusted the resolution to max. Still decent pics.


*More pictures can be seen here*


http://imgur.com/1euey




http://imgur.com/yqgx7


----------



## tarek2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSaints*
> 
> Ordered from Dcsamsungr Saturday morning. Fed Ex tried to deliver it today but I was not in to sign for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another attempt will be made tomorrow. Now that is fast shipping. It took only two days to make it to Texas.


I got my display from this seller and came with stuck green pixels in the middle of the screen .... check your display on black background and on white background to see if there is a problem, i hope yours is perfect


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eneerge*
> 
> *Pictures from a DroidX* - these were before I adjusted the resolution to max. Still decent pics.
> 
> 
> *More pictures can be seen here*
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/1euey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/yqgx7


great pics, thanks!


----------



## 161029

This caught my eye. It looks much better than the Achieva Shimian and Yamasaki Catleap monitors. Wonder if anybody has tried to make a custom enclosure for this...


----------



## braveblade

Could you check the backlight bleeding if possible?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Could you check the backlight bleeding if possible?


Judging from pictures I've seen, it seems to me the only real backlight bleed is near the power button. (Perhaps it's not isolated well enough from the screen.)

If that's the case, I'd just take the power button LED's out.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone tell me why when I'm running eyefinity 7680x1440 and I restart my PC or I get out of a game, one of the screen goes black and start flickering, i've been looking the thread for it and I can't find anything. The screen keep on flashing until I unplug them. Sometimes I had two Crossover doing it.


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone tell me why when I'm running eyefinity 7680x1440 and I restart my PC or I get out of a game, one of the screen goes black and start flickering, i've been looking the thread for it and I can't find anything. The screen keep on flashing until I unplug them. Sometimes I had two Crossover doing it.


Karlitos, I don't have a moment to look it up this second, but someone else just posted about a similar issue regarding their second Korean panel (in a dual panel setup) messing up sometimes and requiring the owner to turn it off and back on to get it to work. It was posted yesterday or the day before, so it shouldn't be too hard to find, and another owner chimed in to say that one of his panels was having the same problem.

Oh, I think it was the Shimians, because I remember thinking to myself "so it starts" and noticing that it was the cheapest panel out of the available ones. Hopefully more people don't start having problems and we don't all get screwed with monitors that don't last long without severe problems.


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> @ derfer
> I tested a lot of games on my 1440p panels and you don't see any difference between any type of AA or AA Off. The only differences you see is the number of frame per second you get after turning it off.


Well no duh. It's 1440p. He was talking about a 27" *1080p* monitor.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decipher*
> 
> Sure, I can spend $60 and pick up a 6450, but then I just spent $60 for something that's not even close to as powerful as my 470.


Go to X (Wal-Mart, Best Buy?) store with a hassle free return policy, buy a video card, test out your display and make use of the return policy. There is no need to blow 60$ on a budget card or ship the monitor back until you figure out what is wrong. It is time for a new video card anyway







, a 470 won't cut it unless you only play old games or play everything with medium/low settings.


----------



## Fuzzmeister

Anyone got any advice for a guy looking to buy one of these three korean monitors?

The Crossover looks FAR much better than both the Yamakasi Catleap and the Shimian, but i can't really decide if its the right way to go.

Also, which ebay seller has the best packaging and bang for the buck etc...? it would be really nice if the seller declared it as a gift so it would make my odds better to make it through customs!
















Did i forget something?

/fuzz

(sorry about my english, not my native language)


----------



## jchan

This is my first post, but I've been avidly reading most of this thread so thanks for all the contributions.

I recently received the the Crossover monitor I purchased from seller red-cap on eBay, specifically the "New CROSSOVER 27Q LED + Tempered Glass 27" DVI-D Dual Computer PC Monitor" (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220987729722?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#rpdId). I paid extra in order to get the tempered glass model (~$425 vs $379), yet upon opening it I think I received a non-tempered glass model.

There is not a single sheet of glass covering the front of the monitor (a la Apple's iMac), but rather a black bezel with a recessed screen (photo of bottom right corner attached). I haven't actually seen how the tempered glass model should look in person, but I was hoping someone in this thread who has might be able to chime in.

I just wanted to confer with the experts here before contacting red-cap directly. Thanks for your help.


----------



## nefx

*Fuzzmeister* I want place order on red-cap, but i think he sells too much monitors and now have more defective panels as others.
Moderator of this topic can get a new vote with sellers? I think red-cap make mistake with glass version. But with metal frame on crossover he can't sell glass on metal. May be frame will be plastic as Yamacasi?

*jchan* I asked red-cap and other sellers make me foto of glass version, but they didn't answer me. Write him, may be he haven'r glass versions.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Just finished gaming, my colour profile worked for L4D2, Bad Company 2 and Homefront. The input lag is low enough that I can comfortably game with Vsync @60hz after coming from a 120hz TN, except with Homefront and the triple buffering in L4D2. I can barely play on my 850D with Vsync off due to the input lag, so I pretty much never do. I'd say the Crossover is faster than the 850D. There is very minor streaking/smearing and overshoot/corona effect (shield/tail forming around moving objects) but it is minimal compared to the 850D which shows large overshoots depending on the colours when using the "Faster," overdrive setting. Using the lower "Normal," setting eliminates overshoot but there is streaking/smearing and 18ms of input lag. The Crossover shows less ghosting than a few TN panels I have used like the Samsung S27a550h and HP 2509B.
> I sent my profile to TFT Central, it should be up in the next few days. I will provide a link when it is uploaded.


The color profile is up on TFT Central, here's a direct link:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm

Thanks for submitting it. I think this should be added to the first post.

Also, any ideas on how much brightness you used?


----------



## donnydorko

prothean i load that profile and get a huge red tint everywhere, did anyone else run it to see if it looked ok


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prothean*
> 
> The color profile is up on TFT Central, here's a direct link:
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm
> Thanks for submitting it. I think this should be added to the first post.
> Also, any ideas on how much brightness you used?


The target was 120cdm/2.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donnydorko*
> 
> prothean i load that profile and get a huge red tint everywhere, did anyone else run it to see if it looked ok


Every one's display+gpu is different so my profile might not work for you. I wouldn't mind seeing some before/after pics with the profile though, yours might have been like mine and suffered from a massive blue tint, seeing it change may look off when in reality it isn't, but who knows.


----------



## nefx

I just ordered Q270P from dream-seller. Waiting track number and shipment by courier.


----------



## Piezo

Just received mine today, arrived from red-cap.

*Shipping:* I bought it on the March. 25 for $375 but there was some trouble with my order. I knew that when I searched up the tracking info something wasn't right because on ems tracking it said my order had arrived to it's final destination in Korea. So I contacted red-cap on the March. 30 and he told me there was trouble with my order and since it was a late friday night he said he would fix it up for me next week asap because the delivery companies would be off. So on Monday April 2, he contacted me again and said there was a mistake by the delivery company and I got the wrong tracking number (which I had thought initially) so he then gave me the correct tracking number. It was all processed by April 6 and would have been at my house the next day (only took one hour in customs!) but it was Good Friday sadly. Also since Canada Post was off on Easter Monday (Damn government employees!), it ended up coming today. So in total it took 16 days to get to me, which was a lot considering it was supposed to be express shipping, but I can understand when mistakes happen. Even though it took so long, I still think that red-cap was a good choice, as he replied back to my questions on the same day I asked them and followed up in regards to the wrong tracking number on the Monday without me having to remind him.

*Packaging/Contents:* Overall it was packed extremely well on the outside of the box, I was very glad to see that. I think there was about 4-5 layers of bubble wrap over box! It came with the power adapter , korean power cord (couldn't use it ofc) and a black dvi cable.

  

*Appearance* It was a bit of a pain to plug the dvi cable and power adapter into the monitor because of the fixed stand, but I was able to get it eventually though. I really love the look of this monitor, especially the way they did the white portions on the monitor. The back is all white except for the part that holds the monitor to the stand, and I really like the way they did the power led on this one, it's fitted around the bottom right edge and I think it looks pretty cool... it's also not blindingly bright either which is great to see. The only thing I don't like is their logo... which at first I thought the C portion was smudged out a little bit but that's actually by design! Other than that, it looks great.

    

*Initial Impressions:* Coming from a Dell U2311H, this monitor still feels gigantic! Colours actually seem pretty good to me out of the box. I'm not sure if I will try calibrating this through nvidia control panel or just leave it be for now... as I don't want to mess with it and not be able to get it back to the default. The glare on the glossy screen is not so bad to me... I'm already pretty used to this on my Samsung plasma anyways.

Unfortunately, I do have a stuck green pixel on mine... just one though from what I can tell. It's in the lower right portion of the screen so it's not directly in my view all the time but you know, it's one of those things where once you see it, your eyes just continue to try and focus on it. I have tried all the ways I know of to fix it but to no avail (massaging the pixel, applying pressure while the monitor is off then turning it on, running those colour flash programs over the spot for 20mins). I'll probably get used to it though... and maybe with a bit of luck, it will fix itself.


----------



## TheSaints

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tarek2012*
> 
> I got my display from this seller and came with stuck green pixels in the middle of the screen .... check your display on black background and on white background to see if there is a problem, i hope yours is perfect


Well I received my crossover today and set it up. Sorry to say I do have what looks like one stuck green pixel in the middle of the screen. I only noticed when the computer was booting up. Once a webpage is loaded or the desktop is loaded I do not even notice it. I can live with that for what I paid for it. Wish it would have been perfect but it's OK.


----------



## TheSaints

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> Good to hear.. i'm in garland, texas.


I am in Houston. Well I received mine today and it's up and running. I do have what looks like one stuck green pixel in the middle the screen. I only notice it when the computer was booting up. Once the desktop loaded I did not notice it anymore. Wish it would have been perfect but I can live with one stuck pixel that I do not see once a webpage is loaded. Good luck with yours!


----------



## ACallander

How long does it take to get a reply back from red-cap?


----------



## hjohanh

Hello All,

I'm from Belgium(gmt+1) and I was looking for a 27 inches with same resolution as the Imac27 and I think that I found one by reading you !(thanks !)
Here in belgium, it's really impossible to find a 27 inches(currently HP) cheaper than 650€ ($850USD), it's also possible to find Dell or Apple 27 but it's quite more expensive.

Then, I just ordered my Crossover yesterday (9 april around 01:00pm +/-) and now i'm really impatient.
I currently have a SLI of GTX580 with a 3x 1920x1080 LCD config but i'm not satisfied by the Surround Gaming solution of nvidia, there are currently no easy solution to quickly switch between surround gaming resolution (5760x1080) and 3 separate screens of 1920x1080, this is really annoying because using surround/eyefinity solution for day to day business is really unconfortable.

I will come back to you when I would have received my new screen...


----------



## schreck51

Got mine today. One stuck green pixel middle bottom of screen, I'm happy with just one. I'll try undead pixel some see if i can get it unstuck either way Overall im happy. got mine from dcsamsungmall ordered sunday night at 10:30 pm recieved it today, thats amazing to me.


----------



## Piezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> How long does it take to get a reply back from red-cap?


I sent him 3 messages total and every time he replied back on the same day for me, within about a 5-6 hour time frame.


----------



## crazyea

Whats the backlight, glow and black levels like piezo?


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The target was 120cdm/2.
> Every one's display+gpu is different so my profile might not work for you. I wouldn't mind seeing some before/after pics with the profile though, yours might have been like mine and suffered from a massive blue tint, seeing it change may look off when in reality it isn't, but who knows.


Did you measure the maximum brightness of the CrossOver? I'm trying to figure out how long to hold the brightness button to get 120cmd/2.

Also I didn't notice any red tint after loading your profile, but I'll try before and after pictures if you want. Got any pictures you want me to try out?

Also seems like green stuck pixels are a common defect with these CrossOvers. I have one green stuck pixel on mine too.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The maximum luminance on mine was 280cdm/2, a far cry from the claimed 380-420cdm/2. I don't remember how many times I decreased the brightness to get near 120cdm/2.

Wall base has some awesome 1440p pictures, pic one you like...
http://wallpaperswide.com/2560x1440-wallpapers-r.html

If every one with a camera and some photo-skills could take a picture of something they like and provide a link for the actual image I think that would help.....well help me get a vague idea on the kind of colour accuracy variations out there


----------



## Prothean

I took a picture of this Norway wallpaper:

http://wallpaperswide.com/norway_2-wallpapers.html

Here's the uncalibrated image:










Here's the calibrated image using MenacingTuba's color profile:










An easier way to see the difference is to click between "First Image" and "Second Image" links on this page:

http://imgur.com/sSALC,hxWOm


----------



## Piezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyea*
> 
> Whats the backlight, glow and black levels like piezo?


So as far as backlight bleeding, I'm not seeing any. It looks extremely uniform when I display full coloured backgrounds. Blacks look decent to me... I just tried skipping through an episode of Game of Thrones to check, and it looked good. With a black background it's a little lighter than if the monitor is off. If I could do some kind of test to see the exact black level, I would be willing to do that. As for ips glow, when I look at it from extreme viewing angles it glows white. Comparing to my dell monitor, which would go reddish or purple at extreme angles, I would say this isn't really a problem with the panel itself but more of a general ips problem. Also because of the glossy panel, viewing angles are quite obscured anyway.

In regards to the colour profile, is there a way to save whatever the default one is at? Just incase this other one doesn't turn out right for me.


----------



## ACallander

Anyone need some awesome wallpapers:

http://interfacelift.com/wallpaper/downloads/date/widescreen/2560x1440/

and

http://www.iconpaper.org/category/mac/wallpapers/


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piezo*
> 
> In regards to the colour profile, is there a way to save whatever the default one is at? Just incase this other one doesn't turn out right for me.


You can click the Profile button in the Color Management screen and select "reset my settings to system defaults" if you don't like it. You can also make your own profile with default settings.


----------



## knoxy_14

probly been asked before hows gaming on these lag noticeable?


----------



## Decipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Go to X (Wal-Mart, Best Buy?) store with a hassle free return policy, buy a video card, test out your display and make use of the return policy. There is no need to blow 60$ on a budget card or ship the monitor back until you figure out what is wrong. It is time for a new video card anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , a 470 won't cut it unless you only play old games or play everything with medium/low settings.


That's what I did with the 6450. Picked it up, tried it out, didn't work, and then returned it haha.

Yea, yea, I know I need a new card. The 470 has been going a bit haywire as of late, but it still works. I can either pursue this monitor or return the monitor and pick up a new video card. Unfortunately, I can't afford both =(. No matter what I like to tell myself I don't game much at all beyond the occasional TF2 match, so it's not a huge priority for me =)


----------



## DragonCypher

Just sent a request to Red-cap for my tracking numbers as I never recieved them originally.
I received the response in about half an hour with an apology, 3 tracking numbers and a link to the track-trace website which was rather nice.
Entered the numbers in to find they were indeed held by customs but only for ~24 hours and have been signed for by my housemate as of yesterday morning. 10 Days from purchase to arrival in Australia, including several public holidays from Easter and a customs hold.. not bad

Will be heading home in a couple of hours to check em out









Then I'll be spending about 4 weeks straight fighting with AMD drivers and third party software to make a Portrait-Landscape-Portrait setup


----------



## Piezo

10 days is fast! Mine took 16 haha. Have fun with your new triple monitor setup. Post pics too, might as well


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prothean*
> 
> I took a picture of this Norway wallpaper:
> http://wallpaperswide.com/norway_2-wallpapers.html


It definitely looks like yours also suffers from a a strong blue dominance out-of the box. I'm looking at the Norway image on my calibrated 850D and your Crossover looks much better with the ICC profile.

@ Every one else, if you know how to use a camera I recommend trying the ICC profile and taking a before/after image of the Norway wallpaper.

http://wallpaperswide.com/norway_2-wallpapers.html

Here is the profile
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm

No harm in trying it, especially if you end up with better picture quality.


----------



## Jinny1

Which Ebay seller do you guy recommend for buying the 27Q??


----------



## Piezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It definitely looks like yours also suffers from a a strong blue dominance out-of the box. I'm looking at the Norway image on my calibrated 850D and your Crossover looks much better with the ICC profile.
> @ Every one else, if you know how to use a camera I recommend trying the ICC profile and taking a before/after image of the Norway wallpaper.
> http://wallpaperswide.com/norway_2-wallpapers.html
> Here is the profile
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm
> No harm in trying it, especially if you end up with better picture quality.


Before:









After:









Album:
http://imgur.com/ZocIk,mNQS6

Seems mine also suffered from blue dominance. Originally I had thought it was fine, but never tested like this. Seems like it is much more accurate now...thank you very much for the profile


----------



## donnydorko

loaded the profile again , with the wallpaper shown and i believe i also had the blue dominance, does look better but the whites seem to have a slight redish color to it , or maybe i got use to the blue dominance


----------



## Piezo

Yea I think that's what it is, I got use to the blue too.. when you first make the change you right away think everything is too red but your eyes adjust after a bit









Jinny1: I personally only dealt with red-cap, but from own experience he was quick to answer and resolve issues. There was a hiccup with tracking info that delayed my order but the communication was there throughout and ofc the monitor arrived, with great packaging and in working condition. I have heard good things about dcsamsungmall and that they actually can ship a north american power brick to you, but they are the most expensive seller last time I checked. The nice thing about red-cap was that I was able to offer my own price instead of just getting it at the "buy now" price. dreamseller is another one that many seemed to have dealt with so maybe more people can post their experiences. I haven't heard of many ordering from coolguys, green-sum or ta_planet yet though.


----------



## radium69

Still waiting for my Monitor to arrive at customs in Amsterdam.
Tracking on ebay does not show anything. When using the post tracking from RedCap it shows they are all shipped and well but they have not arrived in Amsterdam yet? (Did the plane crash?)
Normally if it was stuck at the customs it would still update the status.


----------



## DragonCypher

Got the monitors opened, set up and plugged in. 1 is pixel perfect, the other 2 have a single green stuck pixel which is only noticeable against black. I have confirmed that each one individually works perfectly

The problem:

I can't get all 3 to display at once.

Previously I had 3 x 1920x1080 monitors in eyefinity, 2 through DVI, one through an active display port adapter.
Currently have 2 x HD6950's installed.

Now that I have larger resolutions, I can't use the single link DVI slot.. so I have 1 running through DualDVI on GPU1 and one through DualDVI on GPU2
The third will not turn on at all. Nothing through the active minidisplayport adapter, and nothing through the single link DVI slots.
Swapping the plugs around I only get output through dual link DVI slots. Even removing everything except 1 monitor through the active adapter and it refuses to show anything but the red 'no signal' light.

Now, with it all plugged in and 2 displays on if I go into resolution settings (windows default or CCC doesn't seem to matter) it will detect the third monitor as there, but also states that it is through a VGA connection (CCC identifies it as display port). Whenever trying to force enable it I get an error of 'unable to apply settings'
I was under the impression that with nothing else plugged in, even a passive minidisplayport adapter should work fine. Also when going through single link DVI it should display at 1920x1080 but I can't get anything out of it at all


----------



## Fuzzmeister

I'm having a hard time deciding whether i should buy the Crossover monitor or not. according to bQvle the 100hz version of the Catleap is being manufactured in one month, and that is kinda tempting to be honest. However i dont know if i really need 100hz, since i've been gaming for 60hz monitors for a couple of years..

What do you guys think i should do?









bQvle's post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good for you, this is not an April fool!
> Well, Thursdays meeting, they agreed that they would make these! What Im waiting for is, final Specs + price + Link where you can buy!
> It will take about 1 month to manufacture!
> the guy called "somethng" who is also posting, is my contact. So he is reading everything you suggest aswell!


----------



## Rayyeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzmeister*
> 
> I'm having a hard time deciding whether i should buy the Crossover monitor or not. according to bQvle the 100hz version of the Catleap is being manufactured in one month, and that is kinda tempting to be honest. However i dont know if i really need 100hz, since i've been gaming for 60hz monitors for a couple of years..
> What do you guys think i should do?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bQvle's post:


I've never had anything other than a 59/60 hz monitor, since my first LCD 10 years ago. Even with that, any noticeable ghosting wasn't a bother at all for me (this was 17", 1280x1024, ~20 ms response or more, gtg). I'm not a hardcore gamer by any means, but I like eye candy in games. Having a 100hz monitor will definitely require a 680/7970 to get the full refresh rate in games with eye candy cranked up.


----------



## Fuzzmeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayyeter*
> 
> I've never had anything other than a 59/60 hz monitor, since my first LCD 10 years ago. Even with that, any noticeable ghosting wasn't a bother at all for me (this was 17", 1280x1024, ~20 ms response or more, gtg). I'm not a hardcore gamer by any means, but I like eye candy in games. Having a 100hz monitor will definitely require a 680/7970 to get the full refresh rate in games with eye candy cranked up.


Thanks for the quick answer...

Ghosting has never really been a problem for me either, but the flow you get with 75++hz is just an awesome feeling. And you definitely don't need a 7970 to feel that


----------



## Rayyeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzmeister*
> 
> Thanks for the quick answer...
> Ghosting has never really been a problem for me either, but the flow you get with 75++hz is just an awesome feeling. And you definitely don't need a 7970 to feel that


Yeah, I definitely wouldn't know. But I don't really care either. Ignorance is bliss (and cheaper).

I'm hoping the 670 comes out later this month, since from the rumors it looks like it'll have all the power I need, for ~150 less than the 680. Plus it'll make the extra space in my budget for one of these crossovers..


----------



## jbuschdev

Made an offer for 3 at redcap. had a $25 eBay gift-card too so I ended up at ~$350 ea for 3 x 27Q's (Not LED-P's, I'm desk-mounting them and didn't want to deal with selling the stands). I didn't expect to win it at that price, I would have offered less









I was going to go through dcsamsungmall to get the US Power bricks and Fedex shipping but I guess I saved enough to justify going with redcap.

Just ordered 3 HP Desk-mounts (ergotron rebrands... ) too, and a DP to Dual-DVI adapter. This got expensive quick.


----------



## Dubcraftee

Just got my crossover. Unbelievable shipping. I ordered it Monday afternoon. Just about 48 hours later, i'm using it. It is of great construction. Good weight and feel. Dont like the buttons though. One stuck green pixel center of screen, low.

Highly recommend so far.

Marshall


----------



## Nano5656

Which sellers are selling the panels with the old logo? I really prefer the old logo, and the new one with the 8 is unnacceptable to me.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> Which sellers are selling the panels with the old logo? I really prefer the old logo, and the new one with the 8 is unnacceptable to me.


I noticed that, looks like they have a new model or something.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> Which sellers are selling the panels with the old logo? I really prefer the old logo, and the new one with the 8 is unnacceptable to me.


From the pictures I've seen, the non-pivot model has the new "8" logo, and the pivot version (LED-P) has the old logo.

I found pictures of both versions with the new logo. Looks like they're phasing out the old logo on both models. Anyways, I ordered my pivot version from red-cap and got the old logo.


----------



## Bors Mistral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nano5656*
> 
> Which sellers are selling the panels with the old logo? I really prefer the old logo, and the new one with the 8 is unnacceptable to me.


Sunblock cream.

Plenty of other stuff you can use to remove a logo that's printed on plastic too. Just pick one and try it gently. If I have the time this weekend, my PCBANK will be getting the treatment.


----------



## illli

sunblock cream? interesting. i've never heard of that before. hm. maybe you could take some before and after pictures?


----------



## rashbeep

wish i didn't click any of those korean monitor threads. am now seriously considering buying one of these because a glossy ips display which doesn't break the bank is something i've wanted for a long time. would a powerblock like http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/280673899776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415977d500#ht_1505wt_1141 be all i need to run one of these?


----------



## bobn4burton

Sure seems like a lot of people are getting stuck green pixels lately...

Really wish the Poll had another option for no dead/stuck pixels.

I've already received 1 Crossover and it had a stuck red pixel. I have four more coming from Red-Cap that should arrive this week. I will report back dead/stuck pixel status on those four. A sample set of 5 should be interesting...


----------



## jbuschdev

Yea I'm getting 3, I've yet to buy an LCD with a stuck or dead pixel, so lets see if my luck holds out.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rashbeep*
> 
> wish i didn't click any of those korean monitor threads. am now seriously considering buying one of these because a glossy ips display which doesn't break the bank is something i've wanted for a long time. would a powerblock like http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/280673899776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415977d500#ht_1505wt_1141 be all i need to run one of these?


Yeah, that will work. The price use to be $23.99 (USD).

I'm using the stock brick on 120V AC, works fine so far.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Sure seems like a lot of people are getting stuck green pixels lately...
> Really wish the Poll had another option for no dead/stuck pixels.
> I've already received 1 Crossover and it had a stuck red pixel. I have four more coming from Red-Cap that should arrive this week. I will report back dead/stuck pixel status on those four. A sample set of 5 should be interesting...


I'm guessing 50-50. Half will be pixel perfect and the other half will have a stuck pixel.

But maybe you'll get lucky and they'll all be perfect.
I hate playing the LCD lottery.


----------



## Dubcraftee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rashbeep*
> 
> wish i didn't click any of those korean monitor threads. am now seriously considering buying one of these because a glossy ips display which doesn't break the bank is something i've wanted for a long time. would a powerblock like http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/280673899776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415977d500#ht_1505wt_1141 be all i need to run one of these?


Mine came with a 120-240V adapter, i just had to add a three prong monitor cable. Works like a champ.

Purchased from DCSAMSUNGMALL For 407.40 total


----------



## rashbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> Sure seems like a lot of people are getting stuck green pixels lately...
> Really wish the Poll had another option for no dead/stuck pixels.
> I've already received 1 Crossover and it had a stuck red pixel. I have four more coming from Red-Cap that should arrive this week. I will report back dead/stuck pixel status on those four. A sample set of 5 should be interesting...


i guess it's the price you pay for getting a monitor of this calibre for so cheap. my current monitor has a dead pixel in the lower right corner and honestly it hasn't bothered me one bit. for some people it's a dealbreaker unfortunately.


----------



## rashbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rashbeep*
> 
> i guess it's the price you pay for getting a monitor of this calibre for so cheap. my current monitor has a dead pixel in the lower right corner and honestly it hasn't bothered me one bit. for some people it's a dealbreaker unfortunately.


and thanks to those above. i might get the powerbrick anyways "just to be safe"


----------



## wheelsx45

DCSAMSUNGMALL is the best. Got my monitor and the Ac adapter died after 2 days so he refunded me $25


----------



## sbuck333

got my crossover led-p in today. it is so beautiful. my friend played dota 2 right away and went 16/2/xx with Pudge. I have one stuck(green) pixel in the top left that only really shows only black backgrounds. I hope to massage it physically or with a program, but it is very unnoticeable either way. I am somewhat disappointed due to the one pixel but overall it is so amazing.


----------



## wheelsx45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It definitely looks like yours also suffers from a a strong blue dominance out-of the box. I'm looking at the Norway image on my calibrated 850D and your Crossover looks much better with the ICC profile.
> @ Every one else, if you know how to use a camera I recommend trying the ICC profile and taking a before/after image of the Norway wallpaper.
> http://wallpaperswide.com/norway_2-wallpapers.html
> Here is the profile
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm
> No harm in trying it, especially if you end up with better picture quality.


I am using your profile. Better than all the other ones I tried so far. Is there a certain amount of brightness clicks I need for best quality or does that matter? I'd take a photo but no decent camera at the moment


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheelsx45*
> 
> I am using your profile. Better than all the other ones I tried so far. Is there a certain amount of brightness clicks I need for best quality or does that matter? I'd take a photo but no decent camera at the moment


how do I load this color profile?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> how do I load this color profile?


Right-click desktop → Screen resolution → Advanced settings → Color Management tab → Color Management → All Profiles tab → Add...


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheelsx45*
> 
> I am using your profile. Better than all the other ones I tried so far. Is there a certain amount of brightness clicks I need for best quality or does that matter? I'd take a photo but no decent camera at the moment


I recommend clicking the brightness down 4-6 times if you want decent black levels


----------



## jetpak12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> Got the monitors opened, set up and plugged in. 1 is pixel perfect, the other 2 have a single green stuck pixel which is only noticeable against black. I have confirmed that each one individually works perfectly
> 
> The problem:
> 
> I can't get all 3 to display at once.
> 
> Previously I had 3 x 1920x1080 monitors in eyefinity, 2 through DVI, one through an active display port adapter.
> Currently have 2 x HD6950's installed.
> 
> Now that I have larger resolutions, I can't use the single link DVI slot.. so I have 1 running through DualDVI on GPU1 and one through DualDVI on GPU2
> The third will not turn on at all. Nothing through the active minidisplayport adapter, and nothing through the single link DVI slots.
> Swapping the plugs around I only get output through dual link DVI slots. Even removing everything except 1 monitor through the active adapter and it refuses to show anything but the red 'no signal' light.
> 
> Now, with it all plugged in and 2 displays on if I go into resolution settings (windows default or CCC doesn't seem to matter) it will detect the third monitor as there, but also states that it is through a VGA connection (CCC identifies it as display port). Whenever trying to force enable it I get an error of 'unable to apply settings'
> I was under the impression that with nothing else plugged in, even a passive minidisplayport adapter should work fine. Also when going through single link DVI it should display at 1920x1080 but I can't get anything out of it at all


Is your adapter a Dual-Link one? You need one like this that has an separate USB plug for power.


----------



## DragonCypher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jetpak12*
> 
> Is your adapter a Dual-Link one? You need one like this that has an separate USB plug for power.


I had a feeling this would be the cause..

Mine does not have the usb plug, just says Active on the side of it. The thing that annoys me is there are a lot _without_ the usb being advertised as dual link.. much like the one I have when they clearly can't support higher than single link resolutions.

Doesn't really explain why I can't run it at 1920x1080 on a single link adapter though..

Another thing, I was planning to have the centre screen in landscape with the 2 either side in portrait so that the bottom of all 3 were level.. It seems however the portrait mode is just over 1" lower than the lowest setting in landscape.
I may have to resort to shoving a book under each one like I've seen someone else on here do.


----------



## efuse

Is anyone selling these on eBay with a Perfect Pixel thing? I don't want a dead pixel one, plan on buying two of them.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *efuse*
> 
> Is anyone selling these on eBay with a Perfect Pixel thing? I don't want a dead pixel one, plan on buying two of them.


I imagine the only way they could guarantee "Perfect Pixel" is by opening up monitors and testing them until they find one with no dead/stuck pixels. Now they're stuck with a bunch of opened monitors they have to sell. These monitors are cheap for a couple of reasons, one of them is the screens are A- quality. You just have to accept the risk and hope for the best.


----------



## efuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I imagine the only way they could guarantee "Perfect Pixel" is by opening up monitors and testing them until they find one with no dead/stuck pixels. Now they're stuck with a bunch of opened monitors they have to sell. These monitors are cheap for a couple of reasons, one of them is the screens are A- quality. You just have to accept the risk and hope for the best.


I'd rather buy one of the other Korean monitors that have a perfect pixel thing. I would just prefer this one because, in my opinion, the design is the best and the build quality looks solid.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *efuse*
> 
> I'd rather buy one of the other Korean monitors that have a perfect pixel thing. I would just prefer this one because, in my opinion, the design is the best and the build quality looks solid.


I'm very curious how they're managing to guarantee perfect pixel. Honestly, I'd personally take a PCBank with Perfect Pixel if I was going to do it again, fast response time and perfect pixel makes up for the appearance IMO.

EDIT: NVM, further investigation indicates they are indeed opening the boxes and testing the monitors. Warning to others, if you're going to buy from the sellers offering perfect pixel I would highly recommend against getting a non perfect pixel version from them. If they're opening and testing monitors, that makes me think the non perfect pixel versions are pretty much guaranteed to have been opened previously and have dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## efuse

edit: removed.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I'm very curious how they're managing to guarantee perfect pixel. Honestly, I'd personally take a PCBank with Perfect Pixel if I was going to do it again, fast response time and perfect pixel makes up for the appearance IMO.
> EDIT: NVM, further investigation indicates they are indeed opening the boxes and testing the monitors. Warning to others, if you're going to buy from the sellers offering perfect pixel I would highly recommend against getting a non perfect pixel version from them. If they're opening and testing monitors, that makes me think the non perfect pixel versions are pretty much guaranteed to have been opened previously and have dead/stuck pixels.


Where did you read this? I'd like to see that for myself.


----------



## Jarobata

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Where did you read this? I'd like to see that for myself.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-QH270-Lite-ShiMian-27-QHD-16-9-DVI-D-Wide-2560x1440-Monitor-/230774446127?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item35bb3a982f#ht_8580wt_1167

"Perfect Pixel Monitor. Box is opened. Investigated by program."

Makes sense, unless they were somehow able to buy these from the manufacturer with the guarantee, how else could they do it?


----------



## DragonCypher

If it makes you guys feel any better, I did not go for pixel perfect and out of the 11 million pixels in these 3 screens, 2 of them are green which is only noticeable on completely black backgrounds.

Pixel perfect guarantee would allow for up to 18 of them. No more than 1 in the centre and 5 near the edges...


----------



## efuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> If it makes you guys feel any better, I did not go for pixel perfect and out of the 11 million pixels in these 3 screens, 2 of them are green which is only noticeable on completely black backgrounds.
> Pixel perfect guarantee would allow for up to 18 of them. No more than 1 in the centre and 5 near the edges...


Quoting from an eBay seller:

"Monitor is investigated LCD pixel program, No dead pixels at all."


----------



## sausage boy

Hi all , thank's to this forum i have now just ordered the 27q led.I nearly went with a asus for the same money and glad i didn't! i have ordered it from red-cap so hopefully will be all good, will post pictures as soon as she arrives!! thx again..btw will i need any adapters for a uk power supply?


----------



## TheSaints

Well my one stuck green pixel is no more. It went away the first day. Really enjoying this monitor!


----------



## Piezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sausage boy*
> 
> Hi all , thank's to this forum i have now just ordered the 27q led.I nearly went with a asus for the same money and glad i didn't! i have ordered it from red-cap so hopefully will be all good, will post pictures as soon as she arrives!! thx again..btw will i need any adapters for a uk power supply?


This is the power brick that came with mine. It still worked for me here in Canada.


The power plug that came with it looks like this, so for me I had to use a spare power plug from an old power supply.
http://web.tradekorea.com/upload_file2/product/425/P00226425/cbe9caa5_8458d937_8ff7_4ba6_a1d3_55b603ba6267.jpg


----------



## KaRLiToS

I tested the output voltage last week, and it also gives 24v DC .

This power Brick is a 110-230v 50-60 hz brick.


----------



## wheelsx45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSaints*
> 
> Well my one stuck green pixel is no more. It went away the first day. Really enjoying this monitor!


Did you do anything or did it go away with general use?


----------



## Syrk

Looks like I'm joining the CrossOver club as well. I ordered one from red-cap earlier today at 10pm pst for $375 and I'll be posting my hopefully good results once I get it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hi guys, I've tried everything but is there a way to calibrate my 3 screens. I have no dead pixel, the colors are almost the same, but the whites are different, the right one is more yellow, center is neutral, and the left one is really white blue, like if the white is colder.

Is there a way to adjust that, I've tried with the CCC but no success, if I try to match the whites, I'm messing the other colors.


----------



## nefx

dreamseller upset me. He can't ships my lcd within 7 days after get payment. Be attentions, you may waiting shipment or make refund after 10-15 days suspense.


----------



## bobn4burton

OK...I got my 4 additional screens from red-cap. I have some mixed feelings about them.

1. They are all the new logo style which I don't like nearly as well as the original.
2. None of them have dead pixels...so that's nice.
3. They all have a weird stuck pixel issue. I'm not sure what the best way to describe this is. I'd almost like to call it a 'dusting' of stuck pixel's. Most of them are along the very right edge of the screens. 3 of the monitors have a ton of these stuck pixels (20-40 of them each along the right side). However, these stuck pixels are very very small...smaller than a 'normal' stuck pixel. Its like they are partially stuck pixels. For instance, on an all black screen, you literally can't see them at all from a normal viewing distance (18 inches +). If I get 6-12 inches away from the screen then I can see them if I look closely.

My original screen didn't have any of this 'stuck pixel dusting'. It did have a single stuck red pixel that was VERY prominent (might have been several right next to each other). I've massaged it and used a pixel repair tool for over a week on it and it has nearly disappeared. However...its still larger than these partial stuck pixels on the new screens. I can still see my red pixel from 18 inches away on an all black screen if I look for it.

Anyways...not sure what to make of this issue. Guess its just part of the grade A- panels we are getting. I was surprised to see all 4 have this issue (although one of them wasn't nearly as bad...only had 5-8 or so). They are small enough you'd never see them during any kind of normal use...even with a very dark background. So its not worth shipping them back...plus three of them are for a neighbor and he's not picky at all. So he'll never even know the screens have this imperfection.

Has anyone else seen this 'stuck pixel dusting' problem?


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> OK...I got my 4 additional screens from red-cap. I have some mixed feelings about them.
> 1. They are all the new logo style which I don't like nearly as well as the original.
> Has anyone else seen this 'stuck pixel dusting' problem?


Sorry to hear about the pixel dusting problem. I don't have that pixel dusting problem with my CrossOver, just 1 stuck pixel. My CrossOver has the old logo. Seems like the CrossOver folks are using more defective panels than the other manufacturers.

On the positive side, it's a good thing you can't see them during normal use.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hi guys, I've tried everything but is there a way to calibrate my 3 screens. I have no dead pixel, the colors are almost the same, but the whites are different, the right one is more yellow, center is neutral, and the left one is really white blue, like if the white is colder.
> Is there a way to adjust that, I've tried with the CCC but no success, if I try to match the whites, I'm messing the other colors.


I'm no calibration expert, but I heard that the white point of each screen can vary from monitor to monitor.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prothean*
> 
> I'm no calibration expert, but I heard that the white point of each screen can vary from monitor to monitor.


This could explain everything, because I tried for hours to match each monitors colors and I couldn't do anything. Its my first experience with Multi monitors.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Sorry for double post.

Anyone notice the CrossOver top back panel gets really hot?


----------



## Geglamash

The back of the panel does get warm.
But why did they change the logo?
Looks _weird_.


----------



## TheSaints

Well I rubbed it for a little while but that did not seem to do anything to it. The next time I turned it on it was gone. So far it has not come back.


----------



## TheSaints

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheelsx45*
> 
> Did you do anything or did it go away with general use?


Well I rubbed it for a little while but that did not seem to do anything to it. The next time I turned it on it was gone. So far it has not come back.


----------



## Fuzzmeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> The back of the panel does get warm.
> But why did they change the logo?
> Looks _weird_.


Could you show pics of the new and old logo, please?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuzzmeister*
> 
> Could you show pics of the new and old logo, please?


It looks like this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piezo*


Vs.


----------



## Fuzzmeister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech*
> 
> It looks like this:
> Vs.


Wow. Now i know what people are complaining about. The new logo just looks plain stupid...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Which one is the new and which one is the old one. I have 3 of these


----------



## SimpleTech

The old one is the one you linked (mine) and the new is Piezo's photo.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Which one is better? I prefer the new one pivot, but the Logo is lame


----------



## illli

you can remove the logo, I think....


----------



## Sazexa

On the base of the white-trimmed stands, is the weird squiggly-looking pattern from a plastic film or does it actually come with a random plastic design in it like that?


----------



## jincuteguy

So did anyone have any issue with these monitors yet? besides the dead pixels. Like did the power brick work 100%?


----------



## ChrisZXZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> On the base of the white-trimmed stands, is the weird squiggly-looking pattern from a plastic film or does it actually come with a random plastic design in it like that?


yes that's the plastic film, the stand has the usual piano black coating


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> got my crossover led-p in today. it is so beautiful. my friend played dota 2 right away and went 16/2/xx with Pudge. I have one stuck(green) pixel in the top left that only really shows only black backgrounds. I hope to massage it physically or with a program, but it is very unnoticeable either way. I am somewhat disappointed due to the one pixel but overall it is so amazing.


Are these Crossover monitors really that amazing? Like i know a lot of ppl bought these but do you know if it's the same panel they used for the Apple Cinema Display or the Dell U2711? It might have the IPS characteristics, but it could be a different panel. Did you guys actually compare the image quality to either the Dell U2711 or Cinema Display? Would be nice to have someone who has both monitors to compare.


----------



## Strategist86

I got my crossover LED (non pivot) today, and I am absolutely stunned. The build quality is great, far better than I anticipated, and I haven't been able to found a single dead/bright pixel thus far... And those colors! Amazing!

I had to pay € 39.80 in import fees, which was a bit more than I had calculated.... but only by a couple euros so no big deal whatsoever.

But this is what I found on the customs form:

Description of goods: *LED lights*
Value: *EUR 38*

Alright, the low value (38 euros is about 50 dollars) I was expecting, but seriously, described as 'LED lights'? Brilliant!


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Like i know a lot of ppl bought these but do you know if it's the same panel they used for the Apple Cinema Display or the Dell U2711?


U2711 has a different panel (LM270WQ2) with different backlighting (W-CCFL resulting in ARGB color space) and a very grainy/hard anti-glare 3H coating.

Cinema Display uses the same panel (one of the LM270WQ1 panel types, there were some different revisions already with some minor changes).
Supposedly Apple gets the A+ tested panels and these Korean manufacturers A- but there's nothing definitive on that matter.


----------



## DrSmoke

Is the Crossover just as good as the Catleap? Can it take the 2B PCBs people are trying to swap into the Catleaps? I'm wanting one with no glass and no matte coating, do the Crossovers fit that description?

I'm planning on ordering one of these today, just working out details.


----------



## hv43082

Triple LCD's. 3 Crossover LED-P in landscape mode 7680x1440


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hv43082*
> 
> Triple LCD's. 3 Crossover LED-P in landscape mode 7680x1440












so.much.screen.


----------



## nefx

Guys! I have notebook lenovo x220t with DisplayPort and ordered Crossover with dual dvi and passive cable dvi\dp. But Google says that passive cable can't use more than 1080p( Anybody use this monitor with laptops? Any body try to solder dp connector to crossover board? It has such points to solder; http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Ft%2F1232496%2Fcrossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-monitor-club%23&v=1&libid=1334446471016&out=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.overclock.net%2Fd%2Fd8%2Fd898655c_NbO43.jpeg&title=CrossOver%2027Q%20LED%2FLED-P%20%26%2027M%20LED%20Monitor%20Club&txt=&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13344465816061


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hv43082*
> 
> Triple LCD's. 3 Crossover LED-P in landscape mode 7680x1440


I'm jealous.









Oh wait, I have 3 x CrossOver too FTW.


----------



## Nickjames

Got mine a couple of weeks ago but spent time cleaning up my room a bit. Got a flawless panel, no defects except for a small nick in the bezel at the top which isn't visible when the screen is on.


----------



## DrRetina

Very nice NickJames, Love the black look.


----------



## nocutius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strategist86*
> 
> I had to pay € 39.80 in import fees, which was a bit more than I had calculated.... but only by a couple euros so no big deal whatsoever.
> But this is what I found on the customs form:
> Description of goods: *LED lights*
> Value: *EUR 38*
> Alright, the low value (38 euros is about 50 dollars) I was expecting, but seriously, described as 'LED lights'? Brilliant!


What was the declared value of the monitor? The full price?
As far as i've been able to find the customs in EU are 14% on these monitors and then there's the tax on top of that.


----------



## oaschbagasch

Does anybody have the version with tempered glass?

I'm looking for some pictures of it but couldn't find some yet.


----------



## Cassull

Just got my Crossover yesterday from dcsamsung and it's absolutely gorgeous. Got a perfect model, no dead/stuck pixels whatsoever and don't see any backlight bleeding. At higher brightness levels,though, there is a little bit of a blue tint, but it's rather difficult for me to see. Hopefully, software corrections will also let me match the color settings up a bit closer to my Dell U2412m, but all in all, I'm very satisfied









Forgot to mention, but I hadn't realized what the resolution was going to do to text. Everything is a bit smaller, but I can definitely cram in more stuff on my screen.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cassull*
> 
> Just got my Crossover yesterday from dcsamsung and it's absolutely gorgeous. Got a perfect model, no dead/stuck pixels whatsoever and don't see any backlight bleeding. At higher brightness levels,though, there is a little bit of a blue tint, but it's rather difficult for me to see. Hopefully, software corrections will also let me match the color settings up a bit closer to my Dell U2412m, but all in all, I'm very satisfied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to mention, but I hadn't realized what the resolution was going to do to text. Everything is a bit smaller, but I can definitely cram in more stuff on my screen.


If you're having trouble reading text you can have windows scale it a bit. Open the start menu, type text, and press enter. Choose a value that looks good to you.


----------



## ACallander

Yay, It's almost here!

Ordered April 12th

Clearance processing complete - April 15th @ 1:11 PM


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cassull*
> 
> Just got my Crossover yesterday from dcsamsung and it's absolutely gorgeous. Got a perfect model, no dead/stuck pixels whatsoever and don't see any backlight bleeding. At higher brightness levels,though, there is a little bit of a blue tint, but it's rather difficult for me to see. Hopefully, software corrections will also let me match the color settings up a bit closer to my Dell U2412m, but all in all, I'm very satisfied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to mention, but I hadn't realized what the resolution was going to do to text. Everything is a bit smaller, but I can definitely cram in more stuff on my screen.


Try out this colour profile to get rid of the blue tint:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-monitor-club/560#post_16939669

Here are some before and after pictures:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-monitor-club/580#post_16944709


----------



## Devil_82

just join in purchase for 27Q....hope i love it


----------



## tukibird

Ordered it this morning from red-cap








Now the waiting game starts


----------



## Devil_82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tukibird*
> 
> Ordered it this morning from red-cap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the waiting game starts


nice! same here too...do share when your item start to ship


----------



## Syrk

Got a tracking number at 5am pst saturday. It's only been picked up just now though.







Going through dhl's time quote it should be here on Tuesday. I hope I don't get an obvious dead pixel or a stuck pixel that won't go away.


----------



## rwf1

Hey,

So how do you request one that doesn't have any dead pixels? and how much more do you have to pay?

Best,


----------



## sausage boy

I have a tracking number but it's still not showing anything :/


----------



## jbuschdev

Got 3 today, left Korea Saturday morning got to Ohio yesterday and Seattle this morning and delivered a few hours later. I have no idea why it went to Ohio though. Ordered from Red-cap, paid on Wednesday night I think, so a couple days to get it shipped and then basically DHL overnight from there.

Too busy to set them up today, got 3 desk mounts to put in too.


----------



## Devil_82

nice....going to upload nice pic?









still no tracking number for me. but i guess he have a deadline to release a tracking number within 3 business day.


----------



## jbuschdev

I had time to pull out one, no BIOS with my 5870 (Catleap had the same issue) but windows picked it up and it seems perfect. Little backlight bleed but no dead/stuck pixels although I didn't look too hard.

I'll be taking one of these apart along with getting 3 of them setup in the next few days. Really busy today/tomorrow though.


----------



## Cukies

I just order my monitor!!! So EXCITED TO GET IT!!!


----------



## derfer

My friend just got his. No dead or stuck pixels, just a slight unevenness. He came down 8 notches from max brightness and applied the profile for blue tinting, though it was nearly perfect already. Interestingly the difference between 2xMSAA and 8x was very visible on a fence in Dirt 3. Wasn't expecting that.


----------



## Devil_82

i got my shipping number yeah...

hopefully my accell can come in time also haha
Guaranteed Delivery Date : 2012.04.20


----------



## KaRLiToS

Where can I find the display profile everyone is talking about, can't seem to find it.


----------



## jacquesstrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Where can I find the display profile everyone is talking about, can't seem to find it.


Believe it is on this page:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-monitor-club/590


----------



## jincuteguy

A lot of people buying these monitors now







Im still not sure if I should get one, not sure if it will worth my $400


----------



## Devil_82

you might go wrong if you are in a baby forum...but in a tech forum here...you never go wrong









i post my pics when i receive it....you can consider again


----------



## radium69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radium69*
> 
> Long time watcher here, I jumped the gun and ordered TWO of these babies!
> Current monitor = NONE
> The reason for me to buy one is the glossy panel. I can't stand the AG coatings anymore...
> I've used a Dell 2412m IPS , iiyama x2472HD, Acer H242bmid and an Acer Ferrari 21" Glossy. (Also P series from acer.)
> Heres hoping on a non dead pixel or stuck pixel monitor!
> It's really hard to find a descent IPS panel with glossy. And most prices are outrageous anyhow. (22" IPS 250 euro, 24" IPS 400+)
> I really like the attitude of the company, no bull****, just a screen with a DVI output. Perfect. Also hoping on good power adapters.
> Will report back!


Took two weeks to arrive INCL customs! Not bad at all, seller shipped the item to Amsterdam within 3 days (+ arrived) The ebay tracking did not work, so I tried the track and trace website and that worked. Only it would only show that it was in transit on an airplane (time and date given). So I suspected that they were in customs (which is normal)

All the people whining about import Tax need to stop whining SERIOUSLY! It has always been this way, and they random pick packages to check. Payed 80 euro's for two screens. Even then the total price is still 700 Euro, which is cheap compared to HP/DELL etc.

These things are HUGE! I recieved two PERFECT panels. No stuck pixels, no dead pixels whatsover.
And the glossy is very good on your eyes, absolutely fantastic! Minor issue is that it gives a high pitched noise, but it's almost inaudible.
I wil post pics tonight.

Very satisfied, see how long these will last. I ordered them because I want a glossy screen. Colours are very good actually, better than I thought.
Power adapters seem to get warm but they don't seem unsafe.
Overall very happy!

Next upgrade: Nvidia GTX680 or better.


----------



## sausage boy

Mine's in the uk, hopefully 2morrow i'll get it cant wait!!


----------



## Syrk

I have almost 50 stuck pixels along the right side of my monitor. NOT HAPPY to say the least. I contacted red-cap and we'll see how he responds.


----------



## radium69

AS promised! The pictures!
They say a picture is more than thousand words so here it goes!










The packaging is HUGE!


















This is the leftover of unpacking

















And now for the real treat!:

































Did you change your underpants yet??????

































Picture with flash:








Without flash:
Looks like the other monitor has more colour but thats just the picture


























Absolutely fantastic. Very happy









Also I had this fella approving the screens:









Cheers,
Kevin


----------



## Syrk

Makes me jealous of those that have ordered multiple monitors with all of them being perfect pixel.


----------



## sausage boy

very nice!


----------



## TheMadMan697

Got my CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P yesterday (17/04/2012). It took 5 days to get from South Korea to the south of Ireland. I ordered it from dream-seller on 07/04/2012. It was dispatched on 12/04/2012. He did mark it dispatched 09/04/2012 but after I messaged him for the tracking number I discovered it was not posted yet. dream-seller was very good and responded to my messages quickly. The monitor was posted with a value of $150, postage cost marked on the box was around $100 (cant remember exactly what it was) and there was no insurance on it.

The monitor itself is fantastic. There is no noticeable input lag, my previous 24" IPS (HP LP2475w) had a noticeable input lag but this one is fantastic and I think it is one of the best IPS screens you can get for gaming. The colours the monitor produces are brilliant and It has great build quality. Unfortunally my screen has one stuck green pixel that is fairly close to the center of the screen. Its such a shame, the bright green really bugs me on dark backgrounds but i guess that's the price you pay for getting a sceen at such a low price. Overall I am happy with my purchase but of course i envy the people who got flawless panel









I had no problems with dream-seller and I would recommend him to anyone buying. I don't like how he tends to mark things dispatched when they are not but apart form that I have no complaints about him.

EDIT: One thing about the screen is it doesn't seem to come on until windows has booted almost completely, at least with my set-up (AMD 5970). It will not turn on before the computer gets into the OS so I can not edit the BIOS or select an operating system to boot. I am guessing this is because the screen doesn't have a built in scalier. Anyone else having the same problem?


----------



## sausage boy

Hmm that's worrying news if i cant use my bios..how am i going to do any oc'ing....


----------



## radium69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadMan697*
> 
> EDIT: One thing about the screen is it doesn't seem to come on until windows has booted almost completely, at least with my set-up (AMD 5970). It will not turn on before the computer gets into the OS so I can not edit the BIOS or select an operating system to boot. I am guessing this is because the screen doesn't have a built in scalier. Anyone else having the same problem?


No problem here, it boots up straight away, I can even see my BIOS splash screen. Running an 8800GT here.


----------



## ShinyFalcon

I can see the BIOS screens (UEFI) and the Windows loading screen with my XFX HD 6870.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radium69*
> 
> AS promised! The pictures!
> They say a picture is more than thousand words so here it goes!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The packaging is HUGE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the leftover of unpacking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now for the real treat!:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you change your underpants yet??????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture with flash:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without flash:
> Looks like the other monitor has more colour but thats just the picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely fantastic. Very happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I had this fella approving the screens:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Kevin


Looks frickin' Awesome!

Congratulations man!


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radium69*
> 
> No problem here, it boots up straight away, I can even see my BIOS splash screen. Running an 8800GT here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShinyFalcon*
> 
> I can see the BIOS screens (UEFI) and the Windows loading screen with my XFX HD 6870.


Yea, my 5870 series does not show the BIOS on my old Catleap or this new Crossover (I haven't opened the other 2 yet, but I assume it's the same story).

I'll be upgradin to a couple Kepler cards once they release the mid-range, so hopefully that issue will be gone.


----------



## Syrk

If I manage to get a refund and return shipping paid for, looks like I'll be saying goodbye to the crossover club and hopping on the pcbank(known to be pixel perfect) group. It's unfortunate because the crossover looks and feels awesome.


----------



## Devil_82

radium69 congrats


----------



## Hydros

I think it is worth $50 over the Yamakasi to get the higher quality of the crossover.


----------



## fullhd99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadMan697*
> 
> Got my CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P yesterday (17/04/2012). It took 5 days to get from South Korea to the south of Ireland. I ordered it from dream-seller on 07/04/2012. It was dispatched on 12/04/2012. He did mark it dispatched 09/04/2012 but after I messaged him for the tracking number I discovered it was not posted yet. dream-seller was very good and responded to my messages quickly. The monitor was posted with a value of $150, postage cost marked on the box was around $100 (cant remember exactly what it was) and there was no insurance on it.
> The monitor itself is fantastic. There is no noticeable input lag, my previous 24" IPS (HP LP2475w) had a noticeable input lag but this one is fantastic and I think it is one of the best IPS screens you can get for gaming. The colours the monitor produces are brilliant and It has great build quality. Unfortunally my screen has one stuck green pixel that is fairly close to the center of the screen. Its such a shame, the bright green really bugs me on dark backgrounds but i guess that's the price you pay for getting a sceen at such a low price. Overall I am happy with my purchase but of course i envy the people who got flawless panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had no problems with dream-seller and I would recommend him to anyone buying. I don't like how he tends to mark things dispatched when they are not but apart form that I have no complaints about him.
> EDIT: One thing about the screen is it doesn't seem to come on until windows has booted almost completely, at least with my set-up (AMD 5970). It will not turn on before the computer gets into the OS so I can not edit the BIOS or select an operating system to boot. I am guessing this is because the screen doesn't have a built in scalier. Anyone else having the same problem?


maybe this can help you
Can not output=Bios,but windows no problem
Can be output=Bios&Windows no problem
Information From Catleap Yamakasi product but applies also to Crossover


----------



## jbuschdev

I under estimated just how much space 3 of these would take up. One is overhanging my desk by quite a bit in landscape. In portrait it's only a bit. It'll work but it's a little strange.

Got 2 of them desk mounted and also disassembled one of them. The disassembly is really easy, 14 screws, no tabs or anything. Couple of cables to unplug because the LCD controller is mounted to the backplate. 230v Adapters also seem to be working fine, they don't get warm. I'm about the desk mount the 3rd one but I haven't received my mini-DP to DP adapter for Eyefinity yet, so it won't have anything displayed on it. The first two appear to have no dead or stuck pixels and no excessive backlight issues. At least none that would irritate me enough.

You can go bezel-less on the Crossover with a tiny bit of modding to the back bezel. Basically the panel itself has two metal bars that go the height of the panel on the left and right edges which provide the mounting for the white metal back-plate. They added a bit of extra metal around the entire thing. You can remove the black piece, trim the extra metal around all of the edges, and then mount it just like before. I don't plan on doing it any time soon but that is a nice advantage of the Crossover, And because the buttons are mounted on the back panel you still get those in the correct place. This wouldn't have been possible on the Catleaps unless you fabricated your own metal brackets on each side and you still lose the button mounting.

The other disappointing thing is yet again (I complained about this with the Catleaps) they mounted the LCD controller directly behind where the VESA mounting is with nothing stopping your screws from touching the pcb. And even though I used the screws that came with the stock stand I still managed to short it out. It worked fine after I added some plastic washers to add a tiny gap but still. This could really be avoided with a better design.


----------



## Sazexa

So has anyone discovered if there is a way to safely remove the logo on the monitor yet?

Also, has anyone tried changing the power button LED/removing it/dimming it?(heard some believe it causes minor backlight bleed)


----------



## jbuschdev

The logo looks painted on, but you can remove the entire front bezel if you want. the LCD panel underneath is a grey metal though. Add some black tape and it would help a bit.

I really doubt the LED is causing backlight bleed, it's hiding behind the panel itself. But it wouldn't be too hard to remove, it's attached at a strange angle.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> The logo looks painted on, but you can remove the entire front bezel if you want. the LCD panel underneath is a grey metal though. Add some black tape and it would help a bit.
> I really doubt the LED is causing backlight bleed, it's hiding behind the panel itself. But it wouldn't be too hard to remove, it's attached at a strange angle.


Well, just judging from some pictutes I've seen, and some past reports, there is a bit more backlit bleed near the button.

I like the bezel itseks, just don't care for their logo. I'd like to make the bezel logo free and plain if possible. Is the bezel metal or plastic? Maybe some careful nail-polish remove application and paint (if you can find a matching paint) to touch up could do the trick.


----------



## Nickjames

Plastic bezel, the logo is either spray painted on or laser etched. I think you can scratch it off with nails or plastic.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickjames*
> 
> Plastic bezel, the logo is either spray painted on or laser etched. I think you can scratch it off with nails or plastic.


Well. I want to order one but I think I'll hold off. Intel is trying to demand extreme high density PPI screens incase no one has seen.

But if no companies folloe through with it, I'll definitely order a Crossover if not.


----------



## sausage boy

Finally got here!!! in perfect shape no dead pixals at all







looks great compared to my samsung.





Good job red-cap.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickjames*
> 
> Plastic bezel, the logo is either spray painted on or laser etched. I think you can scratch it off with nails or plastic.


Both halves of my bezel were definitely metal. I had to pry that front panel off on one edge and the weight/sound it made was definitely metal. A close look at the logo looks etched, but it could be sprayed.

The backlight bleed always seemed to be in the lower right regardless of the panel. But yes it's possible to mod it if you're that worried, it's pretty much non-issue in my opinion once you're displaying anything that's not a blank black screen.


----------



## Tran

Hello overclock.net

I was looking to purchase this monitor, i currently have a V243H monitor which is a 24 inch 1920x1080p monitor, and would like to get the Crossover 27Q to use as my main monitor and use the V243H monitor as a 2nd monitor. I currently get around 300 fps SSFIV benchmark and a consistent 60 fps in Diablo 3 both at max res and settings. How much of a decrease in FPS would you guys think i would get with the Crossover 27Q when playing games at 2560 x 1440 ?

Also would i be able to use the HD 3000 thats on the cpu for the 2nd monitor? and the Crossover 27Q with the gtx "470"?
Here are the specs of my main components :
-Intel Core i7 2600K LGA 1155 Boxed Processor
- GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard
-Vengeance Series 8GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800)
-OCZ GameXStream Power Supply 1010W
-PNY XLR8 GeForce GTX 465 Graphics card - 1 GB - GDDR5 SDRAM unlocked to a GTX 470.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sausage boy*
> 
> Finally got here!!! in perfect shape no dead pixals at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great compared to my samsung.
> Good job red-cap.


What buyer did you get this from? Could i get a link please =)


----------



## ACallander

I've received mine and its great.. bummed about one green pixel on the center of the display.


----------



## qrsy2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sausage boy*
> 
> Finally got here!!! in perfect shape no dead pixals at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great compared to my samsung.
> 
> 
> Good job red-cap.


Is yours the tempered glass model or the normal? Could not find the picture of the tempered glass


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sausage boy*
> 
> Finally got here!!! in perfect shape no dead pixals at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looks great compared to my samsung.
> 
> 
> 
> Good job red-cap.


Congrats man! Looks great!

LED or LED-P

Which one looks best?

I cant decide but for a white desk like yours the LED surely look great.


----------



## Quindor

Well guys, yesterday I joined the club and recieved my Crossover from cool-guys. They shipped fast, but then dutch customs took from the 02th till the 19th to get the package to me.

All in all it was around 300 euro for the monitor and then customs asked met 31 euro' s.

It arrived well packaged and without damage. I made a lot of photo's, so I'll post an album tonight.

Monitor looks good, no defect pixels from what I could tell in 30 minuten yesterday evening. It had the blueish tint over it so I quickly applied the color profile that has been circulating and that seems to make a huge difference! I'll experiment more with that later on.

On a side note, I'm using a GTX680. Saw bios POST and everything else.

First thing I did was test the monitor on the supplied stand. I found it to be just fine for a normal stand. It is the non-pivot version because I will be using my own monitor arm. After trying to plug in the power plug backwards a few times and it buzzing and the power supply shutting down, I found out that you actually need to insert the power plug in a way that was not logical to me. The part on which your thumb rests needs to be facing the monitor instead of outward. Amazingly enough, it goes in the wrong way far enough for it to brown the pins and make it buzz a bit.... :S Luckily it fired right up when inserted correctly. A warning:

The flat surface of the power connector should face the monitor, NOT outward as you would expect.

Did some checks, all ok and turned it off to remove the stand and attach my monitor arm. That all went fine.... until..... it wouldn't turn on anymore. :S The powersupply would very softly blink it's green light and make a strange buzzing/beeping sound very softly. No life from the monitor whatsoever.

After thinking what it could be, I remembered somewhere I believe in the catleap threads someone mentioned that the VESA mounting holes are very shallow and to watch out with it. I decided to try and see and removed the lower 2 mounting screws and reconnected the power. Light comes on, all is well! After checking, I can actually see blue PCB in the lower mounting holes where I could see marks of my screws digging in. Not cool..... So a warning for everyone:

Watch out using the VESA mounts and check screw depth on lower holes!

There, hopefully others won't make the same mistakes.

Anyway, only had about half an hour left to tinker with it but from I saw it looked great. Photo' s and more tonight!







And for now, everyone a big thank you in this forum for sharing your experiences!

p.s. I have the normal 'non-tempered glass version'


----------



## jbuschdev

Haha, that was me warning about the Catleaps and I repeated the same thing ( a page or two back ) with my Crossovers. Luckily no permanent harm was done in all 3 cases for us







The Catleap did actually have a thin piece of metal between the controller and the VESA mounting holes. In this case with the Crossover there is NOTHING stopping your screws from going through the controller. Really stupid design.

The VESA mounting is actually not the same depth for the top and bottom sets of screws. I think the top has more room like you described. I noticed this when I disassembled it, but I figure the included screws were short enough in both cases, but I guess the Ergotron plate was a bit thinner than the stock stand's mounting.

And the power plug thing was the same as my Catleap ( flat part facing the monitor ). So I didn't have that problem, I'm surprised it went in the other way. It is staggered to prevent that but I guess the pins could bend if you forced them.

Once I get my DP to DVI adapter setup (should be tomorrow) I'll take some shots of my triple crossover setup on HP Desk Mounts (Ergotron LX rebrands for $75 ea) . I was even able to fit my speakers between the three mounts. In portrait there isn't enough height to clear my speakers, so they're sitting behind the monitors a bit obscured. I was just going to get rid of them and go headphones only for a while. I can rotate to portrait or landscape for all three and have freedom in depth/height everything. I gaffer taped the power adapters to the back side of my desk (just enough cord length to reach the bottom of the mount by a few inches). We'll see if that holds, I'm cheap and lazy though and this is only a setup for the next 12 months.

I'm happy for how much it cost, just gotta find a buyer for my Dell 3007 now. I should be able to get more than half of what I paid for 3 of these Crossovers.


----------



## Syrk

After finding about all the stuck pixels on my monitor and being disappointed as hell, I contacted red-cap. They were helpful and resolved the problem to the point where I was satisfied. After what happened with my monitor though, they wanted me to share with everyone that from now on they will be checking the monitors before shipping them out. Sounds like good news to the rest of you that plan on buying one and were worried about getting one that was bad.


----------



## nocutius

For Crossover only or other models as well?


----------



## Quindor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Haha, that was me warning about the Catleaps and I repeated the same thing ( a page or two back ) with my Crossovers. Luckily no permanent harm was done in all 3 cases for us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Catleap did actually have a thin piece of metal between the controller and the VESA mounting holes. In this case with the Crossover there is NOTHING stopping your screws from going through the controller. Really stupid design.


Couldn't agree more! I used screws that either came with the Ergotron LX or my Dell u2410, not sure where I got them. But they are thumbscrews and quite long.







They did actually leave marks on the PCB from what I could see through the hole. I'll try and take some macro pictures of that and my thumbscrews tonight. I did get a bit scared when it wouldn't turn on anymore and would not have thought that it could be the screws if you hadn't written about it first, so good call in posting that!
Quote:


> The VESA mounting is actually not the same depth for the top and bottom sets of screws. I think the top has more room like you described. I noticed this when I disassembled it, but I figure the included screws were short enough in both cases, but I guess the Ergotron plate was a bit thinner than the stock stand's mounting.


Ah, not using the included screws myself as mentioned above. I'll take a picture tonight and compare them.
Quote:


> And the power plug thing was the same as my Catleap ( flat part facing the monitor ). So I didn't have that problem, I'm surprised it went in the other way. It is staggered to prevent that but I guess the pins could bend if you forced them.


It didn't go in completely, but it did go in far enough to see some blue sparks inside the monitor and burn 2 of the 4 pins in the lug. Actually amazed it's still working, better design then I had expected to be honest.








Quote:


> Once I get my DP to DVI adapter setup (should be tomorrow) I'll take some shots of my triple crossover........


Cool, always nice to see! Did you have to tension the Ergotron LX much before it would hold your screen? I'm a bit afraid of overtensioning it.


----------



## Syrk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nocutius*
> 
> For Crossover only or other models as well?


They didn't specify, but I'm sure it's for all their monitors. I think after they realized how expensive return shipping is; they now want to make sure all the monitors they send out are up to standards.


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syrk*
> 
> After finding about all the stuck pixels on my monitor and being disappointed as hell, I contacted red-cap. They were helpful and resolved the problem to the point where I was satisfied. After what happened with my monitor though, they wanted me to share with everyone that from now on they will be checking the monitors before shipping them out. Sounds like good news to the rest of you that plan on buying one and were worried about getting one that was bad.


So he is shipping you a new one without stuck pixels?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Syrk, are you Red-Cap?









Anyhow, I bought 3 from Red-Cap, no Dead Pixel, I just need the blue tint remover profile.


----------



## holyherbiness

Hey guys,

I am super tempted to buy one of these (the LED-P version because I need height adjustment), and I understand all the risks involved (expensive warranty process as you would need to ship back to korea, A- panel grade, etc.)

I just have a question that's keeping me on the fence:

I run only a EVGA GTX 470 video card. Now I don't plan on playing BF3 at ultra at these kind of resolutions. Hell, I can't even play that on ultra right now.
Thankfully, that game is boring the crap out of me so I've quit it and gone back to SC2.

My question is: Can I play games at a lower than native resolution, or will the monitor not support it? Like I'm mainly talking about SC2 which I play very frequently (master's) and upcoming Diablo 3, another not too graphically intensive game. I don't care if the pixels are stretched or whatever - but I really don't feel like blowing a lot of money for another video card just yet.

Thanks.

Also, on all those compatibility charts I see on the item descriptions, the GTX 470 is oddly not included. I figure it's still compatible, but is there something else here?

And lastly, I can run this alongside another monitor for a 2 monitor set up right? I have an ultrasharp U2311h or something.


----------



## CommanderKeen

Pretty sure it's better to run at native resolution and lower settings with LCD.
Wouldn't matter with CRT,tho.
And yes,you can run a 2nd monitor as well.


----------



## KaRLiToS

You can run lower resolution too, but it looks better in 1440p


----------



## lavis

I'm buying one of these right now. I cannot wait for the Catleap OC if it ever happens I might still get one. I noticed red-cap put a, "shipped after testing" under his Crossover postings. I paid some extra for the Crossover due to it's stands design. I don't have much space on my desk to push the monitor back and the stands on PCBank, Catleap and Achieva were bulky. The Crossover gives me a extra 2 inches of breathing room









I'll post pictures when I get it!


----------



## Taget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Haha, that was me warning about the Catleaps and I repeated the same thing ( a page or two back ) with my Crossovers. Luckily no permanent harm was done in all 3 cases for us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Catleap did actually have a thin piece of metal between the controller and the VESA mounting holes. In this case with the Crossover there is NOTHING stopping your screws from going through the controller. Really stupid design.
> The VESA mounting is actually not the same depth for the top and bottom sets of screws. I think the top has more room like you described. I noticed this when I disassembled it, but I figure the included screws were short enough in both cases, but I guess the Ergotron plate was a bit thinner than the stock stand's mounting.
> And the power plug thing was the same as my Catleap ( flat part facing the monitor ). So I didn't have that problem, I'm surprised it went in the other way. It is staggered to prevent that but I guess the pins could bend if you forced them.
> Once I get my DP to DVI adapter setup (should be tomorrow) I'll take some shots of my triple crossover setup on HP Desk Mounts (Ergotron LX rebrands for $75 ea) . I was even able to fit my speakers between the three mounts. In portrait there isn't enough height to clear my speakers, so they're sitting behind the monitors a bit obscured. I was just going to get rid of them and go headphones only for a while. I can rotate to portrait or landscape for all three and have freedom in depth/height everything. I gaffer taped the power adapters to the back side of my desk (just enough cord length to reach the bottom of the mount by a few inches). We'll see if that holds, I'm cheap and lazy though and this is only a setup for the next 12 months.
> I'm happy for how much it cost, just gotta find a buyer for my Dell 3007 now. I should be able to get more than half of what I paid for 3 of these Crossovers.


Out of curiousity since most of us paid extra to get the Crossover for it's nice stands what drew you to them rather than to their slightly cheaper cousins? Since admittedly without the stand I probably would've gone with the PCBANKS or even played the Catleap panel lottery.

I assume it was the general sense of a better build quality with it's metal (rather than plastic) backs?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taget*
> 
> Out of curiousity since most of us paid extra to get the Crossover for it's nice stands what drew you to them rather than to their slightly cheaper cousins? Since admittedly without the stand I probably would've gone with the PCBANKS or even played the Catleap panel lottery.
> I assume it was the general sense of a better build quality with it's metal (rather than plastic) backs?


I choose the Crossover because of their nice Pivot Stand, their great look and the quality of it. Also because people tends to get less bad pixel with the crossover. The Bezel is also pretty small.


----------



## Quindor

Okay, finally got my photo's ready. Turns out when switching from a Dell u2410 you are going to miss the card reader to read your camera's SD card.









Anyway, full album is over here : https://picasaweb.google.com/quindor/Crossover27QSIPSMonitor?authuser=0&feat=directlink That link should work for everyone.

Photo I wanted to detail are the following :

and


You can clearly see where my thumbscrews digged into the PCB.... Currently the monitor is hanging only by the upper two thumbscrews which do seem to hold it snugly so I do not believe there will be a big problem.

Here is a comparison of the scews I used, not that much different but the mounting plate on the stand probably makes all the difference :


Further then that. I am quite satisfied with the monitor. The anti-blue color profile really does a good job! Without the picture is too blue for sure. Sadly it doesn't work in games and there doesn't seem to be a good solution to fix it either. Maybe sometime in the future? Or just adjust using only the nvidia controls, which is hard because I don't know what they changed in the profile.....

Anyway, if anyone wants to know anything or wants a photo of something, let me know!


----------



## Syrk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Syrk, are you Red-Cap?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow, I bought 3 from Red-Cap, no Dead Pixel, I just need the blue tint remover profile.


No, I'm not red-cap. He just asked me to pass on a little information. I did so because I thought it would be good to know for people that were worried about the possibility of getting a bad one.


----------



## locc

Got my 'lottery ticket' Crossover 27Q LED-P a bit over a week ago. Wanted to properly use and test this before posting here as usually the 1st impressions are flawed or at least slightly 'tinted' by the 'new and shiny' factor. Ordered from Red-Cap and delivery took approximately 2 weeks to Finland. Took 6 days from order to get tracking code after which delivery went fast including tax payment which increased the total cost to ~390e. For some reference point I've HP ZR24w as my 2nd screen and 21" BenQ TN panel as 3rd. (Obviously the TN panel is really bad compared to these IPS panels)

*Picture*
- Yellow tint starts from ½ the screen and gets steadily more intense on the way down. Really intense on bottom right corder. Clearly visible and most annoying on white backgrounds but slightly affects all but most darkest shades. (This is Worst thing about the screen and annoying on desktop use)
- Darker 4cm wide stripe/area 3cm from the bottom which runs the whole width of the screen. Visible on all but darker shades. (not a deal breaker)
- Slight IPS 'glow' on bottom right corder. Good overall.
- On some color shades with high contrast areas you can see ghost lines/trails. (hard to notice/explain. Non issue in normal use) *1

+ 0 dead or stuck pixels.
+ Monitor nor power brick doesnt 'buzz' at any screen colors/intensity. Both also operating on normal temperatures. *2
+ Close to non backlight bleeding. Just slightly at bottom right corner.
+ Overall black level is good. *2
+ Colors out of the box are really good. Gamma @2.2 and doesn't crush blacks or over saturate whites/colors.
+ Good white balance. (slightly on blue side)
+ Great response time and ghosting characteristics.
+ While gaming or watching video you cant notice the flaws of the screen which I previously listed and in those uses picture is amazing really.
+ Glass screen looks great compared to AG coated HP ZR24w and I am getting less reflection issues than I expected.

*Other*
- Came with one side of the box torn/crushed open. Bubble wrap was still ok (something really heave must have been on top of the box).
- Power brick didn't have any proper place in the shipment box so it had been freely bouncing against back of the monitor.
- Cord from monitor to power brick is so short that if monitor is not on right on the edge of the table the brick will hang ½ on the air. I have to run power cord ~10cm on the table so I had to tape the power brick to the side of the table leg.
- My ASUS 5850 do not show bios/boot picture but works in widows normally.
- Tried to OC but even 65Hz was too much and resulted black screen.
+ Stand is more then decent and height adjustment works great. Not tried pivot.

*Bottom line*
- If I'd seen this actual screen before buying it would have been a tough call. This is mostly because of the yellow tint from ½ the screen down. When I say this take in account that I'm picky about things like these and the slight yellow tint might even go unnoticed if looked over quickly. Its also one of those things which you notice easily after you know its there. As these are A- grade panels mine was clearly not passing as A+ because if the tinting. Combining mine and others experiences (I've red all posts in this thread and majority of other 27" threads) about these panels I'd still recommend buying the 'lottery ticket' and hoping for the best.

*1 Example: flat dark shaded background and white window on top of it fillin ½ the screen leaves white'ish tial next to the windows right side. This thin trail goes all the way to the edge of the screen. When you move the white window the trail moves with it obviously. (I dont know how to explain this properly but I've not seen anything like this on LCD screens and thought these issues were in the past when CRT monitors were phased out. I suspect poor quality controller board as cause).

*2 Backlight @ 2 steps up from lowest.


----------



## Tran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tran*
> 
> Hello overclock.net
> I was looking to purchase this monitor, i currently have a V243H monitor which is a 24 inch 1920x1080p monitor, and would like to get the Crossover 27Q to use as my main monitor and use the V243H monitor as a 2nd monitor. I currently get around 300 fps SSFIV benchmark and a consistent 60 fps in Diablo 3 both at max res and settings. How much of a decrease in FPS would you guys think i would get with the Crossover 27Q when playing games at 2560 x 1440 ?
> Also would i be able to use the HD 3000 thats on the cpu for the 2nd monitor? and the Crossover 27Q with the gtx "470"?
> Here are the specs of my main components :
> -Intel Core i7 2600K LGA 1155 Boxed Processor
> - GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard
> -Vengeance Series 8GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800)
> -OCZ GameXStream Power Supply 1010W
> -PNY XLR8 GeForce GTX 465 Graphics card - 1 GB - GDDR5 SDRAM unlocked to a GTX 470.
> What buyer did you get this from? Could i get a link please =)


Anyone? ^


----------



## KaRLiToS

@ locc

I bought 3 and I also notice the yellow tint you are talking about.


----------



## Syrk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I choose the Crossover because of their nice Pivot Stand, their great look and the quality of it. Also because people tends to get less bad pixel with the crossover. The Bezel is also pretty small.


I highly doubt that Crossovers get more or less bad panels than the other brands. It's really a lottery. I'll admit I did go after the crossover because I thought it had a less chance of getting a bad panel considering the overall build quality is just so much better than the others.


----------



## sausage boy

I think the p would be better as it tilt's real nice! just wish they did it with a white base.And it's the normal model i have not the glass, and here is the link to red-cap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330702377080.


----------



## ACallander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syrk*
> 
> After finding about all the stuck pixels on my monitor and being disappointed as hell, I contacted red-cap. They were helpful and resolved the problem to the point where I was satisfied. After what happened with my monitor though, they wanted me to share with everyone that from now on they will be checking the monitors before shipping them out. Sounds like good news to the rest of you that plan on buying one and were worried about getting one that was bad.


You didn't really give info on what red-cap did for you? Did he ship you a new monitor and you send the old one back?

How did he resolve you issue?


----------



## Syrk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACallander*
> 
> You didn't really give info on what red-cap did for you? Did he ship you a new monitor and you send the old one back?
> How did he resolve you issue?


I got a partial refund.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taget*
> 
> Out of curiousity since most of us paid extra to get the Crossover for it's nice stands what drew you to them rather than to their slightly cheaper cousins? Since admittedly without the stand I probably would've gone with the PCBANKS or even played the Catleap panel lottery.
> I assume it was the general sense of a better build quality with it's metal (rather than plastic) backs?


Well I wasn't going to use the stands anyways, I desk-mounted all of mine. I was going to buy the LED-P and sell off the stands then figured it wasn't worth the hassle in the end. I got mine for $350ea which is less than I paid for my first Catleap ($375). Still waiting for my stupid DP adapter before I can have all 3 running though.

The build quality is definitely superior to the other models (At least the Catleap). The only design flaw I've seen was the VESA mounting right behind the LCD Controller. As shown by some other pictures here. Besides that you can go bezel-less pretty effortlessly (And keep the buttons) if you have the tools to cut the metal back plate which wasn't possible on the Catleap. And I preferred the simple square look to it.

I believe they're all equal in terms of panel lottery, I wouldn't listen to the one review site that ranked the PCBANKS higher, I think it was just a lucky panel in the sample. LG makes panels, bins them, sells them. It's the luck of the draw with any of these manufacturers. I believe there was a fuss about Apple Cinema Display 27" that also had the yellow tint. I didn't notice it until I dropped my brightness down a bit. If I run at max brightness (not too bad in my opinion) then it's less noticeable.


----------



## zankart

I just got 1 Crossover 27QLED and connectec to my computer but the screen never on no matter how I tried. Tried to connect thro DVI-D to HDMI cable or DIV-D to DVI-D, still the same. Hope some1 here can post me a solution for this....Cable and power adapter are working fine...

Furthermore when I tried to connect Crossover to the PS3 by the DVI-D to HDMI cable. The monitor only turn on when I open a game... and it auto off when I quit the game... tried it with my other monitor Alienware everything fine... So is this hardware fault or?

My spec:
Asrock Extreme 4 X79
Asus HD6970 Cuii
Asus HDAV 1.3 Deluxe

Thx a lot.

Edit: After hours of research... I think I find out that every1 must use a DisplayPort to DVI-D adapter for this monitor? Not sure if Im right on this or not... but if Im right then which cable should I buy?


----------



## jbuschdev

So you get an image when you plug it into your PS3?

I'm a bit confused. You don't need DP to Dual-link DVI unless you're running 3 monitors or don't have any Dual-link DVI ports on your computer.

Try a different Dual-link DVI cable if you can.


----------



## zankart

ye I was surprised myself... but yes when in-game of the ps3 I got image for crossover 27q led-p. It meant I have to use another monitor to start the game cuz it all black for the 27Q Led-P. Both cables (DVI-D to DVI-D, DVI-D to HDIM) are working fine as I tried them with my other monitor... anyway that is the only DVI-D to DVI-D cable I have cuz it comes along with the 27Q Led-p monitor...

Im thinking about DP to Dual-link DVI because... I tried google, search for driver, fix etc.... but nothing I found solve the problem....(or maybe I found at wrong place?) so DP to Dual-link DVI is the only solution I still haven't tried yet....
PLus does any1 here have English Manual for this monitor? I received full korean manual...


----------



## virtualmadden

Can anybody recommend a slim mount for this monitor that would work on a lathe and plaster wall? I live in a pre-WWI house and this thing overpowers my current desk. Would look great mounted flat against the back wall.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zankart*
> 
> ye I was surprised myself... but yes when in-game of the ps3 I got image for crossover 27q led-p. It meant I have to use another monitor to start the game cuz it all black for the 27Q Led-P. Both cables (DVI-D to DVI-D, DVI-D to HDIM) are working fine as I tried them with my other monitor... anyway that is the only DVI-D to DVI-D cable I have cuz it comes along with the 27Q Led-p monitor...
> Im thinking about DP to Dual-link DVI because... I tried google, search for driver, fix etc.... but nothing I found solve the problem....(or maybe I found at wrong place?) so DP to Dual-link DVI is the only solution I still haven't tried yet....
> PLus does any1 here have English Manual for this monitor? I received full korean manual...


Well it seems some of these monitors were finicky with the DVI cable, so I'd suggest trying a new one before going the DP to DVI route (expensive as you need an Active Dual-link adapter, minimum $60-70 for new).


----------



## qrsy2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syrk*
> 
> After finding about all the stuck pixels on my monitor and being disappointed as hell, I contacted red-cap. They were helpful and resolved the problem to the point where I was satisfied. After what happened with my monitor though, they wanted me to share with everyone that from now on they will be checking the monitors before shipping them out. Sounds like good news to the rest of you that plan on buying one and were worried about getting one that was bad.


Correct me if i'm wrong, on their website they only indicate that they will be doing the check for faulty monitor that is faulty and don't think they are helping us check for the dead/bright/stuck pixel right? I also ordered from them and hope they will inspect my monitor before sending.


----------



## Syrk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qrsy2k*
> 
> Correct me if i'm wrong, on their website they only indicate that they will be doing the check for faulty monitor that is faulty and don't think they are helping us check for the dead/bright/stuck pixel right? I also ordered from them and hope they will inspect my monitor before sending.


You're correct and they consider up to 5 bad pixels on the sides and 1 in the middle as normal since these are A- panels.


----------



## zankart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Well it seems some of these monitors were finicky with the DVI cable, so I'd suggest trying a new one before going the DP to DVI route (expensive as you need an Active Dual-link adapter, minimum $60-70 for new).


The cable here is ridiculous expensive. I spent like 20 usd just for the dvi-d to hdmi converter so 60 usd displayport to dual dvi-d doesn't seem a bad choice for me. But can you recommend me any displayport to dual dvi-d adapter that can support 2560x1440. Thx.


----------



## zankart

I lucky found out that there is a "very small switch" on the Asus HD6970 Cuii which will enable Dual Link DVI (DL DVI). After turned the switch the monitor finally turned on... Just wanted to share with others in case you need it.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zankart*
> 
> I lucky found out that there is a "very small switch" on the Asus HD6970 Cuii which will enable Dual Link DVI (DL DVI). After turned the switch the monitor finally turned on... Just wanted to share with others in case you need it.


Are you sure its not the BIOS switch?


----------



## imsiin

Hey all quick question. I am going to order a crossover from redcap and his current listing for a non pivet is 395 whats the best offer you guys have made for the monitor? thanks


----------



## hv43082

I made an offer of $780 for 2 Crossover LED-P (pivot stand) and samsungkorea accepted. I was also able to use a 10% off coupon from ebay to lower the price some more.


----------



## Tran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hv43082*
> 
> I made an offer of $780 for 2 Crossover LED-P (pivot stand) and samsungkorea accepted. I was also able to use a 10% off coupon from ebay to lower the price some more.


What coupon on eBay are you talking about? The one from March isn't that expired?


----------



## C70T5

I've just ordered a 27M model from 'jumiss' because am I right in thinking that the 27Q model will not accept a 1080p signal? If I feel the 2560x1440 resolution is too high for me, I want to change my resolution in Windows to 1920x1080. I understand that because the 27Q has no scaler it will not accept this as input?

So hopefully the 27M should be the ticket for me. It was much more expensive which is causing me a bit of worry!


----------



## CommanderKeen

Why are you ordering it if you don't want to use the native resolution...?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone tell me where I can get the Correct color profile and how to apply it. I really need that help, I'm about to destroy my right monitor because of the annoying blue tint.


----------



## Prothean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone tell me where I can get the Correct color profile and how to apply it. I really need that help, I'm about to destroy my right monitor because of the annoying blue tint.


It's up on TFT Central, gets rid of the blue tint:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm

Instructions on how to apply it are in the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club thread, first post.


----------



## C70T5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CommanderKeen*
> 
> Why are you ordering it if you don't want to use the native resolution...?


Because the resolution may be too high for some things that I want to do. For the price, its a no-brainer to buy this monitor even if I don't use the native resolution. That was my thinking.


----------



## C70T5

How low will the stand on the 27Q go? Can it go right down the bottom so that the bottom bezel of the monitor is almost the touching the base of the stand?

On the fixed stand versions by other manufacturers I think the monitor will be too high for me. There seems to be a good few inches of height underneat the monitor which may hurt my neck.

Can anyone please let me know?


----------



## Quindor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Because the resolution may be too high for some things that I want to do. For the price, its a no-brainer to buy this monitor even if I don't use the native resolution. That was my thinking.


I understand what you're saying, but running anything less then native on any monitor is a bad choice in general I believe. If you wish to run 1080p or even lower on a 27", buy one with that pixel density. That it's S-IPS and other stuff will never make up in image quality for not running native resolution.

That said, it will all depend on your videocard. As stated before the monitor has no scaler, and thus anything that happens in that regard will come down to your videocard and the GPU that's on there. Most modern versions should have no problems with it. Mine even shows my BIOS any everything (GTX 680).

Another choice would be to not scale the pixels but to map 1:1 and have black borders for all the pixels you are not sending to the monitor. Again, depends on what your videocard can do.

Maybe tell us your intended usage scenario and we'll be able to tell you if it's a good match or not.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Because the resolution may be too high for some things that I want to do. For the price, its a no-brainer to buy this monitor even if I don't use the native resolution. That was my thinking.


If you're not going to use the 2560 x 1440 monitors, you're better off buying a monitor in country for the same price at 27" and 1920 x 1080.

It'd cost about the same, but will ensure absolutely no dead/stuck pixeks (or return if so) and no coloring issues.


----------



## Quindor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> How low will the stand on the 27Q go? On the fixed stand versions by other manufacturers I think the monitor will be too high for me. There seems to be a good few inches of height underneat the monitor which may hurt my neck.
> Can anyone please let me know?


I bought the non-pivot version. Please see the picture here, I actually find it to be quite low. I don't use it on a stand however, I used the VESA mounts to wallmount it.


----------



## C70T5

thanks for the pic quindor. is that the monitor at its lowest height?

my usage is going to be web development mainly, so lots of text editing and graphics editing. i once tried a Samsung S27A850 at 2560x1440 for music production and I felt the resolution was a bit too small to be able to see small text clearly. but it was also on a different desk and it was much too high for me.

my office/development desk is lower and my Dell 24" 16:10 monitor is just perfect. however the cost of these monitors is so good that I would like to again try 2560x1440 to see if it works well for me. if it doesn't then i would still like to keep the monitor but change my resolution to 1920x1080 in Windows display settings. I believe the 27M and 2720MDP accept different inputs e.g. HDMI so I am assuming they will accept a 1080p signal from source? therefore connecting a PS3 to it should be ok as well. i hope i am right or else i have wasted a lot of money. i ordered the 27M which cost me £400 (over $650) but the seller said he will check for zero dead pixels before sending to me.

will the 27Q accept a 1080p signal?


----------



## PCModderMike

I wanna go home!! I'm at work and my Crossover is waiting for me, I want to tear into it and check it out!! Haha










EDIT: From Korea to my doorstep in less than a week, that's awesome!


----------



## C70T5

I got a email from seller 'limsunjung' saying the 2720MDP Gold does not have any dead pixels on any unit. So he is basically guaranteeing no dead pixels on that model. How is this possibe? Is it made from A Class panel rather than A- panel?


----------



## holyherbiness

He could be opening it and testing. Highly unlikely that it would be a A+ or A panel


----------



## xonium

I received my crossover today. But I can't get it to display anything! The DVI cable that came with works with my other monitor with 1080p so I think that it's not faulty, but it could be?

Windows detects the montitor as "QHD270QHD270QHD270", is this correct?

When I try to display anything on the monitor in windows screen resolution settings by extending or cloning display, or by selecting it as to be the only active display I get this error:
"The display settings could not be saved. Please try a different combination of display settings" <- Search this and you get only 2 results on google!?

If I boot my computer with only the crossover, it won't display anything at all.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xonium*
> 
> I received my crossover today. But I can't get it to display anything! The DVI cable that came with works with my other monitor with 1080p so I think that it's not faulty, but it could be?
> Windows detects the montitor as "QHD270QHD270QHD270", is this correct?
> When I try to display anything on the monitor in windows screen resolution settings by extending or cloning display, or by selecting it as to be the only active display I get this error:
> "The display settings could not be saved. Please try a different combination of display settings" <- Search this and you get only 2 results on google!?
> If I boot my computer with only the crossover, it won't display anything at all.


Which video card do you have?


----------



## C70T5

i dont have mine yet but are you using a DVI-D cable? a normal DVI cable is unsuitable. you could search windows update for any new drivers. it might not be a monitor problem but a graphics card problem.... are you sure your gfx card can output 2560x1440 resolution?


----------



## xonium

I have an Asus 6950 1GB. I'm pretty sure it can output 2560x1440. I'm using it's dual link DVI output, and the dual link DVI cable that came with the monitor.

Is the monitor correctly identified as "QHD270QHD270QHD270", anyone who has the crossover who can check?

Maybe it could be that I use windows 8 consumer preview? I will try another PC and also installing windows 7 or XP on my current PC.

Also my mainboard only has PCI-E. Not PCI-E 2 or 3, could that be it?

*EDIT*: Alright, tried with another PC. Displays 2560x1440 without any problem on my crossover! So, something about my PC then.
The display got picture from the other PC all the way trough BIOS so I would guess it's not a software problem but just a hardware problem.
I got a bad Asus 6950 1GB or does it really not support this display? The display works with lower resolution than 2560x1440 too, I thought that it wouldn't, maybe that was just shimian or catleap...?


----------



## drka0tic

Apparently some other users with 6950s have also experienced issues. Here is one person who just got it to work by rebooting several times and disconnecting and reconnecting the dvi cable.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/300_50#post_16872466

Also, not sure if your card is the DCII cause I believe it has a switch to change from single-link mode to dual-link mode.


----------



## xonium

drka0tic, it is a DCII indeed. Seems like giecsar had the exact same problem as I do. I will look for that switch (I had no idea about it) and maybe do some more rebooting and see if it helps. Thanks!

EDIT: Now it's working, after using the switch! Thank you drka0tic!

I'm using it with 2 other monitors and it was a little problematic to get them all to work. Apparently one displayport is disabled when running dual link dvi on asus 6950 dcii (Damn I wanted 4x 1080p monitors and 2x 1440p! not possible now it seems).

My crossover is running at the dual link dvi port.
A 1080p monitor at the other dvi
And another 1080p monitor at one of the displayports (the only one it worked with, 1 was disabled as I said, the 2 others didn't identify the monitor correctly, strange).


----------



## Territoria

Hi there, greetings from Belgium again.
I got my Crossover today. Mine is a Mled model; de one with all the extra ports. Well let's just say it is an amazing monitor. Ok, I payed more for it than the standard LEDP model, but really: not only don't I have one single death pixel, no stuck pixels; I do'nt see any bleeding , no scratches, and to my big surprise: I've got a DP-port! I wanted it but accepted the fact I would had to buy an active DVI to DVD-cable. They are very expensive , but I saw it as the only flaw. Luckily, I waited untill I got the monitor. Well it's there and in the little booklet , there is a little extra sheet with DP-information. It must have been added recently. It is also the model with the nicer Crossover-logo; not the one with the bended 8.
And I only had to pay about 26 euro (30 $) on customsrights. I bought it at greensums and they send it as a present of 54$. All well-packed and all. The communication was perfect. They allways reacted within a few hours.
So, what can I say? If you are looking for a monitor without an agressiv matt AG, Highres , all the connections needed (HDMIx2, DP,VGA,BPB, and with loudspeakers and full alu= The Crossover MLED is your man.


----------



## PCModderMike

Just got mine setup and running, and I am very pleased so far







Damn near perfect monitor, does have a slight blue tint to it, I'm going to try to apply the TFT Central color profile later when I have time. But even as is, it's great.







Better pics to follow later once I have more time with it.


----------



## efuse

Does the regular, low-end Crossover have VGA? The pictures on eBay show a VGA port.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *efuse*
> 
> Does the regular, low-end Crossover have VGA? The pictures on eBay show a VGA port.


I don't think VGA will allow you to display up to 2560 x 1440.

I know it's possible without a problem to display 1920 x 1080 using VGA, technically "WUXGA" I believe. But if you're doing 2560 x 1440, go with DVI-D, or DisplayPort.

Maybe the smaller Crossover's (24" or less) have standard D-Sub connectors.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Hey guys. Are there any options to get a pixel perfect model from ebay? I really really want a crossover but i'm nervous about some of the unlucky experiences some people had already. I want to do my best to ensure I get one with no dead pixels and minimum backlight bleed and such.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Hey guys. Are there any options to get a pixel perfect model from ebay? I really really want a crossover but i'm nervous about some of the unlucky experiences some people had already. I want to do my best to ensure I get one with no dead pixels and minimum backlight bleed and such.


Even people that paid for "perfect pixel" still get imperfect monitors.

Why? Because these panels are A-.

If you want a perfect panel, dish out the cash for a more expensive one from a company that will take it back if it is imperfect. (27" 2560 x 1440 from Samsung. Fairly cheap, I believe $800. HP has one also, but it's got some high input lag and is around $700)

Most people get monitors that have no stuck pixels and no dead pixels.

Even if you do have a dead pixel, you'll only notice it on white backgrounds and searching hard for it at this resolution.

I'm not entirely sure if I want to buy one yet. I'm waiting to see if companies are going to follow through with Intel's push for very high-density PPI monitors. (Intel is trying to make 2560 x 1440 the standard for 13" screens)

That seems a little crazy, as the text on my 13.3 is small as it is, which displays 1600 x 900. And if they do that, VGA card makers are going to have to really push their cards and make them cheaper or they'll lose profits.

But we'll see what the release of Ivy brings, and whether I buy one or not.

I'm ready to push that buy button. The only thing, other than previously mentioned, that is stopping me is that I have a 6950 and they seem to have some trouble with the monitor.


----------



## C70T5

just got email from the seller jumiss. he ran an LCD test and showed me photos. zero dead pixels! i cant wait!


----------



## efuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I don't think VGA will allow you to display up to 2560 x 1440.
> I know it's possible without a problem to display 1920 x 1080 using VGA, technically "WUXGA" I believe. But if you're doing 2560 x 1440, go with DVI-D, or DisplayPort.
> Maybe the smaller Crossover's (24" or less) have standard D-Sub connectors.


I'm not going to be driving the monitor over VGA (primarily anyway), it is just so I can hook up an Xbox 360 without having to pay out the ass for the HDMI model.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The low end models only have dual-link DVI.

You can use an hdmi-dvi adapter with consoles but first you have to set the consoles to 720p other wise it will not display an image.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *efuse*
> 
> I'm not going to be driving the monitor over VGA (primarily anyway), it is just so I can hook up an Xbox 360 without having to pay out the ass for the HDMI model.


I don't think you'll find any good gender changers for DVI to HDMI.

Why don't you just find a 1920 x 1080p monitor that takes HDMI?

Also:
1.) Monitor has no speakers.
2.) 360 through HDMI has no audio separation.
3.) Meaning you'd lose sound.

That's why I use the 360 VGA cables. It has RCA analog on the cable with the VGA connector.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> just got email from the seller jumiss. he ran an LCD test and showed me photos. zero dead pixels! i cant wait!


Is this an ebay seller? Did you ask him for pics of it before you bought it or what?


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> just got email from the seller jumiss. he ran an LCD test and showed me photos. zero dead pixels! i cant wait!
> 
> 
> 
> Is this an ebay seller?
Click to expand...

Seller's full eBay name is *to.jumiss*. Has a 27Q LED, 27Q LED-P, and 27M LED for sale.


----------



## PCModderMike

I'll admit, I'm an amateur for sure...but I thought I would just share this for anyone wanting a good look at the 27Q


----------



## Syrk

Nice unboxing for those that want to get a better idea of how awesome it looks.


----------



## derfer

My friend just noticed 7 black dead or stuck pixels on a black screen. He massaged out all but 3. Has anyone else had pixels go bad on them over time?


----------



## Tran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> I'll admit, I'm an amateur for sure...but I thought I would just share this for anyone wanting a good look at the 27Q


Great video! +REP
When is the overview video coming, i'd love to see the pivots and picture quality of the monitors.
Also what seller did you get it from


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tran*
> 
> Great video! +REP
> When is the overview video coming, i'd love to see the pivots and picture quality of the monitors.
> Also what seller did you get it from


Hey thanks







Trying to get the follow up out this weekend maybe. I bought mine from dcsamsungmall.


----------



## Cukies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> My friend just noticed 7 black dead or stuck pixels on a black screen. He massaged out all but 3. Has anyone else had pixels go bad on them over time?


That just happen to me today. My screen was perfect till a dead pixel pop up in the center of my screen. I can only see the dead pixel in white, red, green, blue not black.


----------



## evilbone

jumiss and at least one other seller have a listing for a new 2012 Crossover with 420 cd/m^2 brightness (though the specs listed later in the ads still have 380 cd/m^2). Does anyone have details on a new 2012 panel? Are there improvements to backlight consistency or refresh rate? Does anyone have their hands on one if they exist?


----------



## fullhd99

I just want to share information about Spec,Variant LG IPS PANEL 27" 2560x1440








This panel use by korean monitor brands CROSSOVER
To find out which panel Variant are using you must disassemble the monitor








Hope placed on the first page








For LM270WQ2=CCFL I think CROSSOVER not use this variant

*
LM270WQ1=LED
*

*Specs1*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*Specs 2*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*Specs 3*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*Specs 4*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*Specs 5*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*Specs 6*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*Specs 7*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*
LM270WQ2=CCFL
*
*Specs 1*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*Specs 2*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## qrsy2k

Hi guys just gotten my Crossover 27Q + tempered glass last night and is very happy with it. Got it from red cap and would highly recommend him .

On a side note, im using a HD6950 2gb and is intending to upgrade my card to a 7950. Is this card compatible? Read that some people are having problem not showing bios or something? Anyone using this card can advise? Thanks in advance


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qrsy2k*
> 
> Hi guys just gotten my Crossover 27Q + tempered glass last night and is very happy with it. Got it from red cap and would highly recommend him .
> On a side note, im using a HD6950 2gb and is intending to upgrade my card to a 7950. Is this card compatible? Read that some people are having problem not showing bios or something? Anyone using this card can advise? Thanks in advance


can you post pics? thx


----------



## qrsy2k

To be honest I couldn't tell the different between the tempered and non tempered. The one I received is almost exactly the same as what other has posted here. The screen isn't flash with the monitor frame (nothing like the imac feel).


----------



## Tran

Just bought a Crossover 27Q, seller promises good things







Will try to get picture of when i get it.


----------



## lavis

I purchased my Crossover from redcap a week ago. It should be here any day, but the track code that was provided does not work







Redcap told me they take about a week to get to USA so he estimated 4/27-5/1 and the track code doesn't work for him either! Maybe a EMS screw up...

He shipped out the day after I purchased. I'm hyped for this thing. Ready to give it a good 'ol massage if their are any stuck pixels (don't tell the gf). Hope it's low\non-existent on dead pixels. Now if I could ever find a non-reference 680 in stock


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tran*
> 
> Just bought a Crossover 27Q, seller promises good things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will try to get picture of when i get it.


who you order from? and what he promise?


----------



## PeteJM

Has anyone here ever taken apart a Crossover branded monitor? And/Or anyone have pictures of the dissasembly of them showing the PCB/LCD Panel Mounting to Plastic Housing/Bezel?

Reason I am asking is because I want to do a custom 3 panel display but I want to see if these have the same mounting areas as other panels or are bezel mounted.

Total resolution will be 4320x2560 *3 wide in portrait (short side up)


----------



## EvgeniX

good news:
Quote:


> LG's IPS monitors head downmarket with 2D-only IPS4 series launching soon
> 
> While LCD monitors with in-plane switching technology were once decidedly settled at the high end, LG apparently thinks its time for everyone to have one and is launching its mainstream IPS4 line. Executive VP JJ Lee says the aim is for IPS monitors to become "ubiquitous in every room", bringing better color reproduction, picture quality and wide viewing angles with them. So far we know they're slotting in just below the 3D-capable models shown off at CES, but there's nothing mentioned in the press release (included after the break along with another pic) about prices, sizes, specs or model numbers. If you're in the market however, expect to find out more soon since they will roll out to Asia first in May, followed by Europe and North America in "the coming weeks".


----------



## PeteJM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> good news:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> LG's IPS monitors head downmarket with 2D-only IPS4 series launching soon
> While LCD monitors with in-plane switching technology were once decidedly settled at the high end, LG apparently thinks its time for everyone to have one and is launching its mainstream IPS4 line. Executive VP JJ Lee says the aim is for IPS monitors to become "ubiquitous in every room", bringing better color reproduction, picture quality and wide viewing angles with them. So far we know they're slotting in just below the 3D-capable models shown off at CES, but there's nothing mentioned in the press release (included after the break along with another pic) about prices, sizes, specs or model numbers. If you're in the market however, expect to find out more soon since they will roll out to Asia first in May, followed by Europe and North America in "the coming weeks".
Click to expand...

Thats horrid news! It means I have to wait to do my tri-panel display! (Lies, I wont wait







)


----------



## Tran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> who you order from? and what he promise?


I will tell who the seller is after i get my monitor! I don't want everyone to get swarm him in false hope. He promised zero dead pixels as he will be double checking it before shipping it to me








Great price as well


----------



## holyherbiness

Just received mine from BigClothCraft; paid 390 for one LED-P
Two day Shipping to New York and packed really really well. Came with a free plug for U.S., but I'll likely buy the correct transformer just in case.
Absolutely no defects I can see. Packaged so well that there were no scratches on the display or housing.
0 dead pixels, no color shift, no backlight bleed that's out of the ordinary..
Love the tilt/quality of stand. Not quite as fluid as my ultrasharp, but it's nice nevertheless.

Here's to hoping that this monitor lasts a few years and doesn't suddenly die.
Time to hunt for a new video card. My GTX 470 probably won't cut it anymore.


----------



## Kuad

Just got my first Crossover 27Q, wanted to check the quality myself before dropping the other $700 for another pair







Just hooked it up, has 1 stuck pixel(green on) in the upper left, barely noticeable, and some uneven-ness to the lighting - bottom right is a little brighter than the rest of the screen.

I got mine from Accessorieswhole, ordered on the 23rd, picked it up from the FedEx office today(27th) for $377. Came with a 110-240 welltronics brick, that takes a standard computer power cord so just used the one from my old monitor.

Tried it out on a couple games so far, it looks spectacular, now I just have to load up BF3 and see how my vid card takes the punishment lol.


----------



## Taget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lavis*
> 
> I purchased my Crossover from redcap a week ago. It should be here any day, but the track code that was provided does not work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Redcap told me they take about a week to get to USA so he estimated 4/27-5/1 and the track code doesn't work for him either! Maybe a EMS screw up...


You probably know this. But just in case. While in Asia track it here. http://www.track-trace.com/post

After it crosses the Pacific just use the USPS.


----------



## lavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taget*
> 
> You probably know this. But just in case. While in Asia track it here. http://www.track-trace.com/post
> After it crosses the Pacific just use the USPS.


Ya I frequently buy from taobao.com using EMS or DHL. This time someone goofed up the tracking. It's not the first time I've purchased from asia and gotten a EMS tracking number that just doesn't work. Good tip for others though









Edit: Few hours after posting this my roommate texted me and said my asian HDMI monitor showed up. That box is trolling people. Of course I'm stuck at work till 9


----------



## tianh

Can someone link me to the right power plug for this? I live in California


----------



## jbuschdev

I'm using the stock "230v" brick on all 3 of mine without issue, the bricks are warm but not bad at all.

Unless you're talking about the cable from the brick to the wall, that's just a standard PC Power plug.


----------



## tianh

I'm talking about a complete replacement. But the stock bricks should be fine for long term use? Won't blow up my monitor or anything I hope haha


----------



## dieselstation

Will this stand work on the Crossover?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/V7-DS1S/17179805


----------



## jbuschdev

I don't think any damage could come from it. Although I don't know much about electronics. If it expects 230v and you give it 115v, I would figure it would just not work if it was incompatible. But don't quote me on that. I actually have a Kill-A-Watt, I could see what the bricks are using. According to the Kill-a-Watt, the crossover brick is pulling 53w @ 116.9v and 0.73 amps on a mostly white screen (notepad++ and Chrome with this page open). And I know other people tested the output and got 24v (what the Monitor expects) from the bricks. So I trust the actual results read by these devices than I do the label itself. I also just tried my crappy multimeter, getting 24v from mine too.

Hell I've shorted out my Catleap / Crossovers because the VESA mounting screws went too deep and touched the LCD controller. I heard an audible pop and the power cut off. Backed out the VESA screws and tried again and they all worked fine. All 4 of my Korean monitors are still running 100%. The Catleap's brick was advertised at 115-230 though.

I'm guessin instead of building 3 different types of bricks (115, 230, and 115-230) they just stuck with a 115-230 for all of them. Now they only need 1 process to build "3" different types of bricks. It works on all configurations so customers are happy, and the manufacturer only needs to source parts for one type of brick. Just my theory...


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyherbiness*
> 
> Just received mine from BigClothCraft; paid 390 for one LED-P
> Two day Shipping to New York and packed really really well. Came with a free plug for U.S., but I'll likely buy the correct transformer just in case.
> Absolutely no defects I can see. Packaged so well that there were no scratches on the display or housing.
> 0 dead pixels, no color shift, no backlight bleed that's out of the ordinary..
> Love the tilt/quality of stand. Not quite as fluid as my ultrasharp, but it's nice nevertheless.
> Here's to hoping that this monitor lasts a few years and doesn't suddenly die.
> Time to hunt for a new video card. My GTX 470 probably won't cut it anymore.


I just bought a 27Q-P off BigClothCraft. How quick was he with tracking info?


----------



## Maximumoverload

I´m going to bay one Crossover tomorrow.. I was thinking 100Hz+ Catleap but i dont have money to bay that good GPU that can handle 100fps or more on this resolution. And my Gpu is only 5month old so i will be fine with Crossover 60Hz..







I can post pictures of monitor when it arrives if you want..


----------



## holyherbiness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*
> 
> I just bought a 27Q-P off BigClothCraft. How quick was he with tracking info?


He never provided me with tracking info.

Somebody emailed me asking me a couple of questions regarding c ustoms, address confirmation, etc.

Then a day later I got a generic "your item has been shipped" with an arbitrary 8-11 business day to U.S. estimate.

Two days after that, it showed up at my door.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holyherbiness*
> 
> He never provided me with tracking info.
> Somebody emailed me asking me a couple of questions regarding c ustoms, address confirmation, etc.
> Then a day later I got a generic "your item has been shipped" with an arbitrary 8-11 business day to U.S. estimate.
> Two days after that, it showed up at my door.


Balls..that's bad. Did you ever email him asking for a tracking number?


----------



## jigm

Just ordered a Crossover led-p from bigclothcraft. Hopefully everything goes smoothly and I get a decent display.


----------



## Jarobata

I still get excited every time I sit down in front of this beauty. Worth every penny.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarobata*
> 
> I still get excited every time I sit down in front of this beauty. Worth every penny.


Yep, I went with 3 and don't regret it. I don't really game on all 3 w/ Eyefinity, but having 3 is useful for productivity. Not having to minimize or compromise on space is nice. Turning your head to look at the side screens can get annoying, if they're in portrait I actually have a height issue (it's like sitting in the front row at a movie theater, gotta lean back a bit to see everything). But the main stuff is on the center screen, side monitors are secondary stuff so it's not that bad.

I sold my 3007WFP-HC on craigslist for nearly the cost of 2 x 27Q's ...


----------



## C70T5

Apparently my monitor has arrived today and is waiting at home. but I've been told it had no extra packaging over the standard cardboard box! i sure hope its ok because i bet its been thrown around on the plane and between various courier vans plenty. the seller didn't even put a single layer of bubblewrap around it. i'm pretty pissed off about that now.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Apparently my monitor has arrived today and is waiting at home. but I've been told it had no extra packaging over the standard cardboard box! i sure hope its ok because i bet its been thrown around on the plane and between various courier vans plenty. the seller didn't even put a single layer of bubblewrap around it. i'm pretty pissed off about that now.


UH oh, I would be pissed off myself, hope it's OK for ya.


----------



## C70T5

OK just got home. The box seems to have held up well. It looked a bit damp but I opened the box and the polystyrene stuff has protected the screen.

Unboxed the monitor and everything looked fine until I looked round the back where the connectors are. Its no biggie, but one of the screws from the back panel is missing and the metal is actually bent out of shape. Now this metal is pretty tough stuff so for it to bend out of shape as much as it has is a bit worrying.

Plugged the included DVI-D cable into my 4 year old PC, used my old monitor's kettle power lead into the ac adapter, turned it all on. Hmm, no light coming on the AC adapter. Then suddenely.... the bios screen flashed up, Windows 7 loaded in fine, and the screen is so deliciously immensely gorgeous and so large that I'm still trying to take it in.

The text is so crisp and sharp I feel like there is nothing between myself and actual page I am looking at. Its like looking through a window, rather than a screen. I am so pleased with it I would happily recommend anyone to put their money into one.


----------



## lavis

Alright got to unbox my monitor today from red-cap. I have good and bad news. So for the bad news first. The monitors stand came shipped broken. It's basically bent so bad it is unusable and the screen falls face forward. The only thing that protected the screen was the foam in the box as the majority of the weight was not being held up by the monitors stand. This made me pretty angry as i was going to use the provided stand. Anyone have any suggested stands for me?










Now for the good news. I removed the stand and set the monitor down on my floor praying the thing would even fire up. I didn't have much hope since the stand showed up like that! Plugged it in and it fired right up with my PC. I ran the normal calibrations looking for dead or stuck pixels and the results came back that I have about as close to a perfect monitor as you can get. I have one stuck blue pixel on black only. The pixel is high at the top center of the monitor not in the middle of the screen. Zero dead pixels. Backlight bleed was at a all time low. I have some at the bottom, but it is so minimal it almost isn't worth mentioning. My monitor also does not display the blue hue some people were getting.

(This pic severely over emphasis's the stuck pixel I couldn't get a more clear picture as it is so small.)









The pixel under normal use is impossible to see and even if I set the screen to all black I'd have to be no more then a foot from the screen before it's noticeable. I have not attempted to massage the pixel but I did run a pixel repair that didn't phase it at all.

All in all a great looking screen I was blown away. As another person has said it's like looking out a window. I launched Trine 2, RAGE, Batman: AC, Diablo 3 and CS:GO all at 2560x1440 on my GTX 580 which ran at least 4xAA without issue or frame hiccups. On a side note it's hard as hell to play counter strike at this resolution









Pics:


----------



## jbuschdev

Those are some nice backgrounds... got links?

Also with regards to the stand. You might be able to buy one off someone who doesn't want theirs (I unfortunately like to keep all the accessories with stuff I buy). But I bought this stand for my Catleap before I sold it to a buddy who wall-mounted it. I might sell my Ergotron Neo-flex stand as I don't have much use for it right now.

http://www.buy.com/prod/202785777.html

It supported the Catleap in Portrait just barely (Side of the screen touched the base). But it would work with the Crossover I think. Check the specs for weight (ignore the screen dimensions, it's fine in landscape), Crossover might be heavier but the stand was pretty beefy. This would be like upgrading to the LED-P model. Maybe ask red-cap for a bit of a refund to cover the cost of a new stand? $20-30 is reasonable I think.


----------



## theonedub

Landscapes, skylines, and nature wallpapers: http://interfacelift.com/wallpaper/downloads/date/any/


----------



## DragonCypher

I've received my adapter to plug in the third monitor. When I turn the computer on with all 3 plugged in and turned on it works perfectly with no hassles at all.

However when the monitors sleep, or if I turn them off manually, or run a full screen game.. basically anything that drops the connection temporarily the monitor connected via the mini displayport adapter stops receiving a signal.
The light stays red mostly, every few seconds flashes blue, the computer makes a "found new hardware" noise with both other monitors turning off and on as if I'd changed display settings. This repeats until I turn off the 3rd monitor.
So far the only way to get it to receive a signal is to restart with all of them plugged in, turned on and ready.

Has anybody found a solution to this without constant reboots? I also use my desktop for bitcoin mining and would prefer not to turn it off or leave the screens on 24/7 (disabling monitor sleep)


----------



## C70T5

Could someone help me out with getting the settings on my laptop correct? Basically I have an Asus laptop which has an nVidia GT550m 2GB card built in. However most of the time it wants to use the integrated intel chip which is fair enough.

I connected my laptop to the Crossover 27M using the HDMI port on both devices. The picture displays on the screen but it is only at 1920x1080 so looks fuzzy. I tried to up the resolution in Windows 7 but the maximum it will go to is 1920x1080. I tried clicking Advanced Settings and the Intel Integrated Graphics menu is made available where you can create custom resolutions so I tried to create 2560x1440 but I get a warning saying something like "that resolution is beyond the bandwidth of this device".

The thing I don't understand is why doesn't the nVidia control panel come up, even when I ask the computer to use the nVidia chip instead of the Intel one? Any idea how to make this work?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Could someone help me out with getting the settings on my laptop correct? Basically I have an Asus laptop which has an nVidia GT550m 2GB card built in. However most of the time it wants to use the integrated intel chip which is fair enough.
> I connected my laptop to the Crossover 27M using the HDMI port on both devices. The picture displays on the screen but it is only at 1920x1080 so looks fuzzy. I tried to up the resolution in Windows 7 but the maximum it will go to is 1920x1080. I tried clicking Advanced Settings and the Intel Integrated Graphics menu is made available where you can create custom resolutions so I tried to create 2560x1440 but I get a warning saying something like "that resolution is beyond the bandwidth of this device".
> The thing I don't understand is why doesn't the nVidia control panel come up, even when I ask the computer to use the nVidia chip instead of the Intel one? Any idea how to make this work?


From what I've seen, HDMI caps out (on most cables) at 1920 x 1200.
I don't think your HDMI cable is capable of displaying 2560 x 1440, and good luck finding one.

I've looked for one before, couldn't find one. And I have yet to see a gender changer of HDMI to DVI that allows for higher than 1920 x 1200, also.

"Theoretically", HDMI can provide 1440p. But you might have to dig deep...

And actually, looking back on "that resolution is beyond the bandwidth of this device", it might mean that your card just can't even display up to that resolution.


----------



## nefx

It's gorgeous LCD. I reciverd Q270P from dream seller. No dead pixels no scratchs, no problems) But now i thinkig how use this LCD in games at my noteboock X220t with external GTX560) It's powerful configuration, but not for 2560*14400 DX11 games( Anyway it's awesome.


----------



## nefx

p.s i have only 64ghz matrix(


----------



## ewitte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nefx*
> 
> It's gorgeous LCD. I reciverd Q270P from dream seller. No dead pixels no scratchs, no problems) But now i thinkig how use this LCD in games at my noteboock X220t with external GTX560) It's powerful configuration, but not for 2560*14400 DX11 games( Anyway it's awesome.


Testing games this morning I was getting like 20-30fps in Alice and I have a GTX680!


----------



## Tran

Did i win the award for the fastest international delivery? South Korea -> New York in one day








It came wrapped in bubble poppers though most of the bubbles were popped by the time i got to my house, maybe the drivers were popping them!







Anyways, i won't announce which seller i got it from until after i get something resolved between me and him. Although enjoy the iphone 4 pictures!

27in --> 24 in

















Better performance than i expected, for a GTX 465 unlocked into a 470. HIGH SETTINGS IN MAX RES!







I also benchmark in SSFIV AE max settings which got 255 FPS!


----------



## Hydros

Looks frickin' awesome!

24" inch is for wimps!


----------



## lavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Those are some nice backgrounds... got links?
> Also with regards to the stand. You might be able to buy one off someone who doesn't want theirs (I unfortunately like to keep all the accessories with stuff I buy). But I bought this stand for my Catleap before I sold it to a buddy who wall-mounted it. I might sell my Ergotron Neo-flex stand as I don't have much use for it right now.
> http://www.buy.com/prod/202785777.html


Would a neoflex handle this monitors weight and size without issue? That was the original stand I looked at last night.

2560x1440 Wallpapers (Can be NSFW)
http://wallbase.cc/search

Edit: Weight of my screen is about 16.5lbs so I guess a neoflex would handle it well enough?


----------



## Rushnerd

88C? Yeesh, you might want to turn your fan on higher than 68%....


----------



## Tran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rushnerd*
> 
> 88C? Yeesh, you might want to turn your fan on higher than 68%....


Someone had never had a Fermi card


----------



## Rushnerd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tran*
> 
> Someone had never had a Fermi card


GTX 280 from BFG week one. I doubt they will make a card that hot again.


----------



## Sazexa

88C?

Holy lord.

My Crossfire 6950's don't get near that hot. The hotter card runs at around 65C, the colder runs around 55C on load.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> 88C?
> Holy lord.
> My Crossfire 6950's don't get near that hot. The hotter card runs at around 65C, the colder runs around 55C on load.


Completely normal for that generation of cards, unfortunately. The GTX 470 actually has a maximum operating temp of 105 Celsius...now would I wanna ever get close to that?? Hell no LOL, but 88 Celsius is expected.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lavis*
> 
> Would a neoflex handle this monitors weight and size without issue? That was the original stand I looked at last night.
> 2560x1440 Wallpapers (Can be NSFW)
> http://wallbase.cc/search
> Edit: Weight of my screen is about 16.5lbs so I guess a neoflex would handle it well enough?


Yea it's definitely on the upper limits but it should work, I think the Catleap was 15.6lbs or something, I forget if I actually weighed it.

There are cheap options at Monoprice.com

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970

I measured the Crossover at 15" height, so 7.5" for half height, this stand should cover it fine with 17" of height, and supports 33lbs. The only thing is it doesn't do rotation, which I kind of like which is why I bought the Ergotron. If you were never going to rotate it, then this stand looks like a good option.


----------



## lavis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Yea it's definitely on the upper limits but it should work, I think the Catleap was 15.6lbs or something, I forget if I actually weighed it.
> There are cheap options at Monoprice.com
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970
> I measured the Crossover at 15" height, so 7.5" for half height, this stand should cover it fine with 17" of height, and supports 33lbs. The only thing is it doesn't do rotation, which I kind of like which is why I bought the Ergotron. If you were never going to rotate it, then this stand looks like a good option.


I ended up getting the Neoflex. That quoted stand has spotty reviews from people with monitors ~20lbs while the Neoflex people have been quoted to be using other 27 inch IPS's without issue. It really seems like these are the only two affordable bases (There are others for $100+) out there unless you are purchasing a wall mount or arm..

Thanks for the help!

That aside I decided to also purchase a 120v \ 60hz adapter for this monitor. The supplied adapter scares me. It gets way too hot and after I unplugged my monitor to set it aside until my base comes the adapter smelt of burnt plastic... I don't need my house burning down!


----------



## virtualmadden

Went back to my cheap 24in Acer for a week while I got the wall mount kit. The Acer which has performed well just can't compete as the two monitors exist in different tech brackets. The Crossover is so much better visually and a side by side just is depressing. I'd like to echo the concern on mounting, be careful with the screws. Only the bottom right screw caused a spark, but didn't kill the monitor. I added an extra washer between the plate and screw for some margin of error. Otherwise looks great.


----------



## deusofhearts

Can anyone who owns the 2720MDP GOLD LED share input lag and gaming experience?


----------



## ewitte

Sorry cancelled the 2720mdp was scared of getting the original ad board which was faulty and is being recalled. Reviews for the newer version were much better.


----------



## Limniscate

I just received 2 of these in Korea. Both have a stuck pixel; one is green and near the center and the other is red and near the corner. Luckily, I only paid $250 for each.


----------



## Cyberblade

Just received my 27q last night. Thanks to all the reviews and commentary here I went ahead and ordered one last Friday, I was pleasantly surprised by how fast the shipping was, though I was more concerned about it arriving in one piece rather than quickly.

Replaced a 1920x1200 26" KDS monitor and a 19" 1440x900 Hanns-G monitor with just this one monitor, and I'm surprised at how well it's working. I thought it'd be a bit harder to adjust to the loss of the second monitor, but it's doing the jobs all rather well due to the high resolution. The picture is just incredibly sharp, I'm quite pleased with the high jump in quality. Haven't seen even one dead pixel so far, but I just got it so I'll just have to see what happens. A slight bluish hue, but it's so slight it's barely noticeable.

I'd remembered reading at one point that the stands were often wobbly, weak, or off level (That might've been on one of the other Korean monitors I'm not sure anymore), but I would totally disagree from what I've got. The rubber grip on the base keeps it firmly planted on my desk, and even with my wobbly desk it barely moves at all. The buttons for brightness/on off being on the back is sort of annoying, but sort of nice in a way that it keeps the front so smooth. I'm already quite quite happy with my purchase.

On a word of note for Linux users, at least from my experience last night setting it up. Nvidia's proprietary drivers did not detect the monitors resolution at all. I was stuck at 640x480 at max on the proprietary drivers, but the open source Noveau driver picked it up just fine. On my GTS 450 I see a performance increase in Linux, but Windows saw a slight performance hit. I don't use Windows for too much, and the few games I do play didn't take a big enough hit to really worry too much about it. I intend on replacing most of my rig as the year goes on, so that shouldn't be too worrying. All in all I'm very pleased with this monitor, and I'm really tempted to pick up a second, but money isn't quite there, and neither is the power of my rig.


----------



## semajha

So since all these Korean monitors use the same led panel. What difference would it make going with the catleap over these crossover monitors?


----------



## Tran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> So since all these Korean monitors use the same led panel. What difference would it make going with the catleap over these crossover monitors?


Crossfire 27Q has a better stand and more premium bezel and metal backplate which i prefer









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyberblade*
> 
> Just received my 27q last night. Thanks to all the reviews and commentary here I went ahead and ordered one last Friday, I was pleasantly surprised by how fast the shipping was, though I was more concerned about it arriving in one piece rather than quickly.
> Replaced a 1920x1200 26" KDS monitor and a 19" 1440x900 Hanns-G monitor with just this one monitor, and I'm surprised at how well it's working. I thought it'd be a bit harder to adjust to the loss of the second monitor, but it's doing the jobs all rather well due to the high resolution. The picture is just incredibly sharp, I'm quite pleased with the high jump in quality. Haven't seen even one dead pixel so far, but I just got it so I'll just have to see what happens. A slight bluish hue, but it's so slight it's barely noticeable.


I hook my 24" 1080p monitor along with my 27" and it works great together, why not just hook your KDS along with the 27" instead of buying another one lols.
Also you could correct the blue hue with some clother profiles that you easily find in this thread just by searching for it.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewitte*
> 
> Sorry cancelled the 2720mdp was scared of getting the original ad board which was faulty and is being recalled. Reviews for the newer version were much better.


Where are the reviews for the newer version? I only read one review where it was worse than all the other Korean monitors.


----------



## semajha

Thanks, Tran. I just compared the other monitors and crossover does look the best.

So there are newer versions of this monitor? How would I be able to identify which version it is? And is there anything else important that I need to look for when purchasing these displays? So many different sellers...


----------



## ewitte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Where are the reviews for the newer version? I only read one review where it was worse than all the other Korean monitors.


Same place they did another review with the new revision

http://www.playwares.com/xe/22912327

Pretty much everything was fixed.


----------



## ewitte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Thanks, Tran. I just compared the other monitors and crossover does look the best.
> So there are newer versions of this monitor? How would I be able to identify which version it is? And is there anything else important that I need to look for when purchasing these displays? So many different sellers...


The old one was like 485CR vs 1100 on the new. It was also off by like 4000 Kelvin and had horrible response times. Fortunately the new revision fixed it. I did not want to take a chance just got an Achieva Shimian instead.


----------



## Limniscate

I bought my monitor while on vacation in Korea. The power brick that came with it says "Nanjing Frontek 230v input 50/60Hz 1.2A, DC 24.0 V 5.0A output. Will this work in the U.S.?


----------



## waylo88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Limniscate*
> 
> I bought my monitor while on vacation in Korea. The power brick that came with it says "Nanjing Frontek 230v input 50/60Hz 1.2A, DC 24.0 V 5.0A output. Will this work in the U.S.?


This is the one that came with my Shimian.










I'm using it right now just fine.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewitte*
> 
> The old one was like 485CR vs 1100 on the new. It was also off by like 4000 Kelvin and had horrible response times. Fortunately the new revision fixed it. I did not want to take a chance just got an Achieva Shimian instead.


I'm guessing the only way to find out which version it is, is to buy it? I checked different ebay listings and there's no mention of what version the display is anywhere.

Also, I know the difference between the 27Q and 27P but what about the 27M? Are speakers the only thing differentiating this model from the other two?


----------



## Arksz

Well I just ordered a crossover 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole. His dead pixel policy seems to be better than most, he says he takes them out of the box to check and guarantees two or less stuck pixels. Well see how it goes, I'm super excited. Can't wait to play some diablo 3 on this thing!


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewitte*
> 
> Same place they did another review with the new revision
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/22912327
> Pretty much everything was fixed.


Wow, the updated 2720MDP is much much better and on par with the other monitors now. If it wasn't for the ugly design I would have jumped on it... Hmm really tempted with its updated/calibrated performance though. Thanks for the link!


----------



## semajha

I think I'll take my chances with accessorieswhole too. They do seem to have the best policy. Keep us updated and let us know when you receive your display.


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Wow, the updated 2720MDP is much much better and on par with the other monitors now. If it wasn't for the ugly design I would have jumped on it... Hmm really tempted with its updated/calibrated performance though. Thanks for the link!


The revision is pretty ugly :/ and about $100 more than the original. Do not want.


----------



## Dabb

Well you get much much more inputs. The Achieva + HDMI input goes for the same price as this with the Catleap + Multi only a tad cheaper. The Achieva + HDMI + DP is around $700 or something. Wish there was an Achieva monitor with the same amount of inputs as this one for $500 or less.


----------



## Fatt

I just got my 27Q LED from bigclothcraft. Couldn't find any dead or stuck pixels until I used test images, and then I still only found one dead pixel at the top center of the screen. Doesn't really bother me, not sure I'd have noticed it without the test images







. My monitor actually came from bigclothcraft with a welltronics 110v power adapter, which was a very nice touch! The crossover definitely gives the appearance of being the best built and most polished of the korean monitors. Overall the monitor has exceeded my expectations!


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fatt*
> 
> I just got my 27Q LED from bigclothcraft. Couldn't find any dead or stuck pixels until I used test images, and then I still only found one dead pixel at the top center of the screen. Doesn't really bother me, not sure I'd have noticed it without the test images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My monitor actually came from bigclothcraft with a welltronics 110v power adapter, which was a very nice touch! The crossover definitely gives the appearance of being the best built and most polished of the korean monitors. Overall the monitor has exceeded my expectations!


I just recieved my 27Q-P from Bigclothcraft too. No dead pixels, but I do have 1 stuck red pixel at center-left screen. It isn't bad at all. Only noticeable on black backgrounds. Other than that, the monitor is amazing.


----------



## lavis

Just posting back for people needing a stand as I did. The neoflex holds this monitor without an issue.









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994001


----------



## fullhd99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lavis*
> 
> Just posting back for people needing a stand as I did. The neoflex holds this monitor without an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994001


What you can charge compensation of damage to the monitor stand from the seller
I think packing crossover monitor the most good with a fairly thick cardboard
unlike catleap,achieva,pcbank with a thin cardboard...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





































________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


----------



## Maximumoverload

My Crossover monitor text looks funny..







But its real Crossover and no dead pixels..


----------



## tzyn

What do you mean with funny?

It was already mentioned before in this thread. There are two logos. The old one (first post) and the new one (your picture).

See this post


----------



## Maximumoverload

Ok thank for info.


----------



## holyherbiness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*
> 
> I just recieved my 27Q-P from Bigclothcraft too. No dead pixels, but I do have 1 stuck red pixel at center-left screen. It isn't bad at all. Only noticeable on black backgrounds. Other than that, the monitor is amazing.


Yeah, when you have a gazillion pixels, one or two won't make much of a difference!
glad u got it in one piece!


----------



## holyherbiness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximumoverload*
> 
> My Crossover monitor text looks funny..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But its real Crossover and no dead pixels..


My crossover logo looks exactly like that too! Barf*


----------



## skylarr

Hello, i'm thinking of buying 27LED (or is it safe to buy the mdp one yet)?

Anyway i've read on hardforum someone say that the picture quality on the crossovers was the worst compared to all of the other korean monitors, didn't make much sense to me but rather ask, is it true or?

Also where can i find pictures of the tempered glass version ? on the shimians i can easily tell which is the tempered glass version or not but on the crossovers even if i search tempered glas on ebay the pictures seem the same as the non tempered glas ones.

Thanks


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skylarr*
> 
> Hello, i'm thinking of buying 27LED (or is it safe to buy the mdp one yet)?
> Anyway i've read on hardforum someone say that the picture quality on the crossovers was the worst compared to all of the other korean monitors, didn't make much sense to me but rather ask, is it true or?
> Also where can i find pictures of the tempered glass version ? on the shimians i can easily tell which is the tempered glass version or not but on the crossovers even if i search tempered glas on ebay the pictures seem the same as the non tempered glas ones.
> Thanks


Picture quality worse? I thought the Crossover used the same panel as the Catleap.


----------



## Dabb

They're all meant to have the same panel, but apparently the Crossovers have a bit more variations. Perhaps QC is a bit worse with Crossover? The Crossover does have a better stand though (in terms of sturdiness) so I guess you win some and you lose some.


----------



## skylarr

But if we take a good crossover the picture should match a shimian for example, correct ?

I mean i love the look of the crossover along with the shimian , the crossover stand is better but at least i can always get a vesa adapter for the shimian, not much i can do about picture quality hehe.

Cheers


----------



## Dabb

Yup, they should both be equally good I imagine. Personally I'd go for the Shimian as it's cheaper, but if you won't change the stand then the Crossover is good.


----------



## geoxile

Do any of these monitors have AG coating? I'd prefer it since the light in my room is basically antagonistic to my monitor position


----------



## EvgeniX

does any one have photos of inside? how it looks without bezel? thx


----------



## MrSvahn

Hi!

I'm thinking about purchasing a Crossover 27q but i dont know from who? *Which is the best seller?* Who has the best Pixelpolicy / D.O.A policy?

Accesorieswhole writes: *Understanding our pixel warranty policy
Dead Pixel : 0 allowed / Stuck Pixel : 2 maximum*

dcsamsungmall writes: *If it is D.O.A. You can return and get refund or re-send within 14 days with our cost.* Does this mean that if the monitor is DOA, he will pay the shipping back?


----------



## qrsy2k

I ordered from Redcap and they check the monitors before sending out.


----------



## Maximumoverload

I get my Crossover perfect pixel from Redcap on friday.. No dead pixel or stuck pixels and perfect picture.


----------



## Arksz

Monitor should be arriving today! Very excited will post some feedback once I get it all setup.


----------



## Limniscate

Argh, my stand wobbles! It's so annoying.


----------



## Limniscate

I just put this next to my Viewsonic 2365wb and had to change my Viewsonic's color temperature to 9500k to get it close to my Crossover. Any tips on calibrating two monitors?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Limniscate*
> 
> I just put this next to my Viewsonic 2365wb and had to change my Viewsonic's color temperature to 9500k to get it close to my Crossover. Any tips on calibrating two monitors?


Sounds like yours suffers from the blue dominance.

You can DL my Crossover 27Q LED-P profile from here which should bring the colour temperature closer to 6500k.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm

You can google how to use an ICC profile.


----------



## braveblade

Things are getting interesting! One of the 2720mdp ebay seller claims his/her 2720mdp uses A+ panel. I think it's a lie and a bad business practice. Can anyone confirm that?


----------



## ftwo

I purchased from AccessoriesWhole for $520.98 on Saturday May 5, and the item shipped on Monday May 7, arrived the next day!! The item shipped via FedEx Intl Economy. I am in San Diego. Funny thing is that I am still waiting for a cable to arrive from Amazon that came with Amazon Prime FedEx 2Day shipping.









No bad or stuck pixels, however I was concerned the firmware was not the latest. So I wrote to the owner/manager who kindly left his direct contact info on the confirmation email. He responded within a couple hours and said they are an authorized dealer and their products are fresh stock and have the latest firmware.

This is the official post related to the firmware update that solves DP & other issues (use google translate) -
http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/board.html?table=notice&mode=read&idx=222

The item box was shipped within another box that just fit it, and this seemed to be OK because FedEx treated it well.

So, I'm happy for now - I kept factory hardware settings and ran the 2720MDP through calibration (Eye-One Display 2) and it looks great .

I'll connect to DisplayPort today and we'll see... I am driving the monitor from a Thinkpad W520 through a Minidock 3 plus. VGA does full resolution (but I have ghosting cause of a cheap cable - HDMI & DVI look perfect).

Due to a limitation of my hardware (the docking station), HDMI just does HD (1080), DP to HDMI and DVI also do HD, and DP should do full 2560x1440 resolution. This is why I purchased this monitor, because I require a DisplayPort.

Hope the info helps... I know there's not much info out about the 2720MDP yet.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ftwo*
> 
> I purchased from AccessoriesWhole for $520.98 on Saturday May 5, and the item shipped on Monday May 7, arrived the next day!! The item shipped via FedEx Intl Economy. I am in San Diego. Funny thing is that I am still waiting for a cable to arrive from Amazon that came with Amazon Prime FedEx 2Day shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No bad or stuck pixels, however I was concerned the firmware was not the latest. So I wrote to the owner/manager who kindly left his direct contact info on the confirmation email. He responded within a couple hours and said they are an authorized dealer and their products are fresh stock and have the latest firmware.
> This is the official post related to the firmware update that solves DP & other issues (use google translate) -
> http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/board.html?table=notice&mode=read&idx=222
> The item box was shipped within another box that just fit it, and this seemed to be OK because FedEx treated it well.
> So, I'm happy for now - I kept factory hardware settings and ran the 2720MDP through calibration (Eye-One Display 2) and it looks great .
> I'll connect to DisplayPort today and we'll see... I am driving the monitor from a Thinkpad W520 through a Minidock 3 plus. VGA does full resolution (but I have ghosting cause of a cheap cable - HDMI & DVI look perfect).
> Due to a limitation of my hardware (the docking station), HDMI just does HD (1080), DP to HDMI and DVI also do HD, and DP should do full 2560x1440 resolution. This is why I purchased this monitor, because I require a DisplayPort.
> Hope the info helps... I know there's not much info out about the 2720MDP yet.


I'm about to pull the trigger on 2720mdp. Could you test it on 360 or ps3 if possible? And could you upload your color profile if you have time? Thanks!


----------



## ftwo

I'm not able to test a game console or component input, but I did test HDMI from the PC - no issues. Also, I just connected the DisplayPort and am running full resolution now.

The color profile is attached.

CrossOver-2720mdp_05-08-2012.zip 4k .zip file


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ftwo*
> 
> I'm not able to test a game console or component input, but I did test HDMI from the PC - no issues. Also, I just connected the DisplayPort and am running full resolution now.
> The color profile is attached.
> 
> CrossOver-2720mdp_05-08-2012.zip 4k .zip file


Thank you! Do you mind to check for the backlight bleeding and uneven backlight as well?


----------



## ftwo

There is slight and uneven backlight bleeding visible on a black screen - some quality is to be desired here.


----------



## viox

Took the bite and got a crossover 27q, the non pivoting version. Came in approximately 5 days total from the moment i hit the checkout on Ebay. Actually 4 and a half.

Impressions:

-damn! this thing is huge. My puny desk didn't event know what hit it
- vibrant colors. A bit towards cold on the Kelvin spectrum
- very solid construction from what i can tell
-glossy but not quite. I'm coming from a HP ZR22W ( ultra mate) but had a shiny one beforehand. This seems to get it right.
-checked for hot/dead pixels and i can't see any right now. I Will check in a complete dark room later tonight.

Will post pictures in a gallery format in the following hours. We'll see how that goes.

Until now it looks to be money well spent


----------



## expy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viox*
> 
> Took the bite and got a crossover 27q, the non pivoting version. Came in approximately 5 days total from the moment i hit the checkout on Ebay. Actually 4 and a half.
> Impressions:
> -damn! this thing is huge. My puny desk didn't event know what hit it
> - vibrant colors. A bit towards cold on the Kelvin spectrum
> - very solid construction from what i can tell
> -glossy but not quite. I'm coming from a HP ZR22W ( ultra mate) but had a shiny one beforehand. This seems to get it right.
> -checked for hot/dead pixels and i can't see any right now. I Will check in a complete dark room later tonight.
> Will post pictures in a gallery format in the following hours. We'll see how that goes.
> Until now it looks to be money well spent


Who did you buy from? And is it perfect pixel?


----------



## Valkryie

Purchased my Crossover on May 4th (late); shipped on the 7th; received it yesterday early afternoon the 8th on the East coast. Purchased from AccessoriesWhole- who claims he is an authorized seller for Crossover, thus having better panels. I concur:

- Perfect condition; not a single physical defect of the housing or panel;
- Tested for stuck/dead pixels: passed with flying colors;
- Shipped with a 100-240 1.8a 50/60hz 24v 5a A/C adapter, that runs ultra cool (which is a wonderful aspect of this purchase... one less headache);
- Shipped with a universal to USA plug adapter which I didn't need... just used one of my higher rated PSU cables;
- Beautiful glossy screen;
- Very minor bleed in the bottom right corner near the LED power light; only visible when on a black screen at boot up; frankly this no different than the Anti-Glare glow that I had on my DoubleSight DS-263 which just failed on me after 4.5 years of wonderful service (gonna do a cap replacement job on that unit);
- Some banding at first power up on a white screen that has promptly disappeared;
- Definitely check how you insert the power plug- flat side TOWARDS the unit;
- Recommend that you insert your DVI and power cords before you place your unit on your desk; very hard to see what you are doing; mine almost fell off the desk pedestal, just caught it in time;
- Suggest that you run your two cables through the hole in the back mounting pedestal;
- AccessoriesWhole really did not wrap this comparable to how other sellers have done; literally one layer of thin grade bubble wrap; fortunately Fedex DID NOT maul this package (this time!); and this is an exceptional high grade cardboard package, probably better than anything I've ever seen... thus much more resistant to puncture, holing, or crushing. Definitely was concerned when I first saw the bubble wrap. But the unit was firmly centered in its foam protective housing; all accessories, cables, etc. well bubble wrapped and placed at the back of the unit;
- Unit was double covered in wrap and foam paper; pedestal covered in adhesive film (the iphone like base is covered as well);
- New style logo; kinda sorta odd, but the quality of the display far outways the odd logo; and you don't even notice it;
- Running this on a Asus DCII 6970 without a hitch- DX 11 Shogun 2 at highest setting... very nice; have not tried it yet on Skyrim;
- Using GPU scaling... essentially seamless compatibility with any programs that are not quite up to snuff for 2560x1440;
- Unit ultra cool; night and day difference from the DoubleSight and my BenQ;
- Windows 7 recognizes the monitor right away;
- Currently using the ICM profile posted back on page 60 or so; a little too toned down on the white levels for me, though the ICM I created upon calibrating is too vibrant; so I'll continue to use the one posted here on OC for the time being (thank you for posting that);

At $377.00 this unit was a lot cheaper than my DS-263 and my BenQ v2400w; and I couldn't be more pleased. It's so good and at such a positive price point, I feel like I got a steal.

Highly recommend AccessoriesWhole; though I would suggest you ask him to wrap it better; I will mention that to him separately before I leave my positive feedback.

From my perspective this is a no-brainer deal; and you will not be disappointed.

P.S. Includes power cable; DVI-D DL cable (seems okay.... no issues, though I ordered some additional ones from NewEgg just to be safe. And a small 4 page manual in Korean.


----------



## expy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valkryie*
> 
> Purchased my Crossover on May 4th (late); shipped on the 7th; received it yesterday early afternoon the 8th on the East coast. Purchased from AccessoriesWhole- who claims he is an authorized seller for Crossover, thus having better panels. I concur:


Did they mark your package as a gift?


----------



## Kuad

I have actually contacted Accessorieswhole about getting a certificate of origination for future purchases of this monitor - if/when they get that sorted out, you don't have to worry about them posting it as a gift, as it will be covered under the US/Korea FTA, with 0% import duties. I got hit with 5% ad valorem on the one unit I have gotten so far, waiting on them getting the certificate of origination before I bite the bullet on the other 2 . (12.50 duty, and like 6 bucks for fedex prepaying for me, so 20$ additional on the one I got)
Consider contacting vendors and seeing if they have/can get one of these if you are importing one of these to the US, it will save you a few bucks


----------



## expy

I'm not in the U.S. lol


----------



## ftwo

That's interesting about the ad valorem tax you got hit with. Somehow I didn't get that (shipped to California from AccessoriesWhole). The documentation in my shipment had an invoice price with an amount the seller was considerate to generally inform me about beforehand in the auction. Even with a tax I think these monitors are a no-brainer based on the price/performance. Though I have to admit, I was a wee bit concerned about it shipping halfway around the world. Amazingly, via FedEx Intl Express it arrived in a ONE DAY from S. Korea to CA!


----------



## viox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expy*
> 
> Who did you buy from? And is it perfect pixel?


DCsamsungmall. The one that sold the most out of what i know. 370 with the regular pixel policy

Here are some pics


----------



## Atenacius

I'm not sure if these monitors are right for me. I originally intended to get the u2410 but then I saw this and thought, "Wow, a 27" IPS with no AG coating for less money!". But then I noticed that the colors are only 16.7 million and the gamut is only 70 some odd percent.

The selling point of the u2410 for me was the color accuracy (1 billion and 110% gamut). Is there something I'm missing?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atenacius*
> 
> I'm not sure if these monitors are right for me. I originally intended to get the u2410 but then I saw this and thought, "Wow, a 27" IPS with no AG coating for less money!". But then I noticed that the colors are only 16.7 million and the gamut is only 70 some odd percent.
> The selling point of the u2410 for me was the color accuracy (1 billion and 110% gamut). Is there something I'm missing?


"Trusted", perfectly working/tested companies for 27" @ 2560 x 1440p = $700+

"Non-trusted", foreign companies with slight defects @ 2560 x 1440p = $400-

And so what if it if only has 16 million colors? Do you really think the human eye can truly perceive the difference of all of those anyways?

These monitors are great, for gaming, but if you want to use them for business/enterprise such as graphic design and photograph/videography, you're MUCH better off buying something like NEC.


----------



## Atenacius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> "Trusted", perfectly working/tested companies for 27" @ 2560 x 1440p = $700+
> "Non-trusted", foreign companies with slight defects @ 2560 x 1440p = $400-
> And so what if it if only has 16 million colors? Do you really think the human eye can truly perceive the difference of all of those anyways?
> These monitors are great, for gaming, but if you want to use them for business/enterprise such as graphic design and photograph/videography, you're MUCH better off buying something like NEC.


I'd love to own a NEC but it's just too far out of my price range. If it really were just for gaming, I would get the CrossOver in a heartbeat. That resolution is too good to pass up. I do work on a lot of design and photography so I'm more inclined to go with the Dell now. It should be good enough since it's not 'professional' graphic use and main source of income.

Thanks for the input!


----------



## EvgeniX

has any one found good Nvidia settings? brightness/contrast/gamm???


----------



## ewitte

Sorry mine was not done manually but with a spyder. Anyway I believe the dell is 8bit with FEC. Not a true 10bit panel. Also the gamut is about 100% sRGB, 73% NTSC, 78% adobe.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atenacius*
> 
> I originally intended to get the u2410 but then I saw this and thought, "Wow, a 27" IPS with no AG coating for less money!". But then I noticed that the colors are only 16.7 million and the gamut is only 70 some odd percent.
> The selling point of the u2410 for me was the color accuracy (1 billion and 110% gamut). Is there something I'm missing?


You are missing the fact that the U2410 is one of the worst IPS panels money can buy now. It is also very hard to calibrate and you need a decent colorimeter to make use the display. Just because a display is wide gamut does not mean it comes with good colour presets.

1 billion colours=wide gamut= inaccurate and over saturated colours which are wrong for media since pretty much everything is sRGB like these Korean displays. The U2410 also has horrible contrast (600:1) and still commonly comes with each side of the screen tinted different colours. The low contrast renders colours lifeless and dull in dark scenes where blacks will be greyish. Combine this with the excessively grainy anti-glare coating and you have a real winner of a display...not.

The U2412 or HPZR2440w would be much better for your uses. I doubt you need a wide gamut display, but if you really want one the Asus PA246Q is basically a slightly improved version of the U2410.


----------



## Strategist86

I got a 27Q LED a month ago or so and it is great... however, I am now sitting with a dilemma:

I generally have the TV on whenever I am using my computer. I am however going to move my computer to a different room in the house this summer. The TV will not move along. I am planning on adding a TV card and the other necessities to my computer so it can replace the cablebox function. With all that set I should be able to watch TV on my computer... all great, but I want to watch TV *while* I can still use my computer for everything else. So, I am going to need a 2nd screen... and I am undecided on what way I will do it... the options I see right now are the following:

-Buy a used 32" LG TV (cheapest option) and attach that to my computer.
-Buy a second 27Q LED
-Buy a 27M LED (cool-guys seem to be selling them real cheap these days! otherwise this one wouldn't have been among my considerations)

The first option is cheapest. The 2nd and 3rd option offer far more flexibility however, seeing that I could also use those as regular monitors whenever I am not interested in what is on TV. The 27M LED also has HDMI and picture-in-picture, both of which might be useful in this set-up. Are there any catches to using a monitor like this as a television (at HD1080 of course)? I would like to hear your thoughts, because I haven't tried any of it before. I imagine that if I went with the 32" TV option, I wouldn't really ever want to use it as a 2nd monitor because the picture would be horrible, especially when compared to these screens...


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strategist86*
> 
> I got a 27Q LED a month ago or so and it is great... however, I am now sitting with a dilemma:
> I generally have the TV on whenever I am using my computer. I am however going to move my computer to a different room in the house this summer. The TV will not move along. I am planning on adding a TV card and the other necessities to my computer so it can replace the cablebox function. With all that set I should be able to watch TV on my computer... all great, but I want to watch TV *while* I can still use my computer for everything else. So, I am going to need a 2nd screen... and I am undecided on what way I will do it... the options I see right now are the following:
> -Buy a used 32" LG TV (cheapest option) and attach that to my computer.
> -Buy a second 27Q LED
> -Buy a 27M LED (cool-guys seem to be selling them real cheap these days! otherwise this one wouldn't have been among my considerations)
> The first option is cheapest. The 2nd and 3rd option offer far more flexibility however, seeing that I could also use those as regular monitors whenever I am not interested in what is on TV. The 27M LED also has HDMI and picture-in-picture, both of which might be useful in this set-up. Are there any catches to using a monitor like this as a television (at HD1080 of course)? I would like to hear your thoughts, because I haven't tried any of it before. I imagine that if I went with the 32" TV option, I wouldn't really ever want to use it as a 2nd monitor because the picture would be horrible, especially when compared to these screens...


Look up the Samsung MONITORS on Newegg with built in TV Tuners. Cheap, will display high def TV with a PLETHORA of inputs. I bought one and use it next to my computer with my monitor, looks great.


----------



## cky2k6

I would be awful paranoid of those 27m cool-guys sale, because I'm quite sure that it costs the same if not more to buy it new in Korea... They might be mislabeled, or the 27m suffered from the same defect the 2720mdp did.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cky2k6*
> 
> I would be awful paranoid of those 27m cool-guys sale, because I'm quite sure that it costs the same if not more to buy it new in Korea... They might be mislabeled, or the 27m suffered from the same defect the 2720mdp did.


Uh-oh, I was just getting interested in this particular listing... What could be wrong with it? I actually e-mailed the seller asking their opinion on this monitor vs. some others they are selling.


----------



## cky2k6

The 2720mdp had a faulty ad board, which caused contrast and color accuracy to be god awful. I just don't see how they can magically sell a monitor for $300 cheaper than the other guys, especially since its likely to be using similar parts to the 2720mdp which was discovered to be faulty.


----------



## Machiyariko

Does anyone with a 2720MDP GOLD LED know if it the HDMI works with a PS3? I'm thinking about replacing my 3 monitors with one of these but I want to be sure it works with the down-scaling and all.
If anyone has any other recommendations I am all ears.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thank you... the price did look off, as Q versions were in that range (and more expensive even). Back to my two top choices of PCBank and Achieva ShiMian with tempered glass then.


----------



## Dabb

I'm very interested in the 27M LED at $364! I've just messaged the seller to double check the listing as I'll be willing to buy one if it's the real deal. Unfortunately I'm not image/graphics editor though and as such I don't have any calibrators etc, but I'm sure I'll be able to tell if things are off.

Well let's see what the seller says. I've got no graphics card though.. only use APU and my board only has single link DVI, DP and HDMI







DP to dual link DVI adapters aren't cheap either though.. Sigh.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> I'm very interested in the 27M LED at $364! I've just messaged the seller to double check the listing as I'll be willing to buy one if it's the real deal. Unfortunately I'm not image/graphics editor though and as such I don't have any calibrators etc, but I'm sure I'll be able to tell if things are off.
> Well let's see what the seller says. I've got no graphics card though.. only use APU and my board only has single link DVI, DP and HDMI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DP to dual link DVI adapters aren't cheap either though.. Sigh.


Probably a price error. But yeah, keep us updated!


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Machiyariko*
> 
> Does anyone with a 2720MDP GOLD LED know if it the HDMI works with a PS3? I'm thinking about replacing my 3 monitors with one of these but I want to be sure it works with the down-scaling and all.
> If anyone has any other recommendations I am all ears.


It does. But you may not be able to change the backlight just like the shimian multi inputs one. Need confirmation.


----------



## vagrant7

Hey guys I just received my CrossOver today which I ordered it from green-sum last saturday. Amazing picture quality!! beside the 1 dead pixel (but i dont mind it)

But.. my CrossOver display fades to black after 3 minutes of use (blue led light still on). I thought it was the dvi cable, so I went out to our local electronic store and bought a brand new DVI-D dual link cable.
I plugged it in and it worked for only an hour and a half! Now its back to fading to black every 3 minutes. The only way to recover the display is to unplug and plug the dvi cable back in or turn off the monitor for 30 second and turning it back on.

Any help would be appreciated D:

I have radeon hd 6990..
already updated all drivers


----------



## ElevenEleven

Looks like that CrossOver M version listing has been fixed... The price is up to $634.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Looks like that CrossOver M version listing has been fixed... The price is up to $634.


Yeah unfortunately he had the 3 and 6 the wrong way round. I should have just tried to buy it and see if he would honour it lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cool-guys*
> Hello
> Thanks for your interest and letting us know.
> It was mistypo. we just fixed the price.(sitll our price is lowest.)
> Sorry for the confusion.
> There is HDMI terminal with this monitor.
> Best regards.^^


----------



## Territoria

I have the 27 MLED and it works perfectly with my PS3! ALso backlightadjustments through the games (Killzone 3).
I'm more than satisfied!
Even more because it was sendtome without any pixelorbacklightproblem and apparently it even had a DP-port (with is not standard on these models).


----------



## donnydorko

when it says perfect pixel and says no dead pixels tested and gauranteed, does that mean it could have a stuck pixel?


----------



## Cyclonicks

Got mine yesterday! As my first "real" pc monitor I'm extremely happy! there's a bit of backlight bleeding in the lower right part, but that's it.. no dead, stuck or whatever pixels afaik









the only "issue" I had is after a couple of minutes I heard a big POOOF and the screen went black.. then got back on again.. the power brick did that lol so for now I'm unplugging it every time I turn the pc off lol.

I wonder if there's a somewhat "better" power bricks out there for those screens...

edit: actually the powerbrick went POOF again and did not light back up this time (the small green light) So I'll need to look for a new power brick lol


----------



## Rabbs

How good is the rate of no dead or stuck pixels? Cause i want 3 of these.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I just bought a Crossover 2720MDP. The seller assured me it was the revised version. I can actually verify this since I have a colorimeter so it will be fun to see how this turns out and to deal with the potential hassle.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I just bought a Crossover 2720MDP. The seller assured me it was the revised version. I can actually verify this since I have a colorimeter so it will be fun to see how this turns out and to deal with the potential hassle.


Please do a review when you receive it! Also, I'm still waiting for your detailed review of crossover NCX! :


----------



## Cyclonicks

okay for those interested I bought my 27q from bigclothcraft and if I understood his email correctly he's willing to ship me another power brick. We'll see how it goes, hopefully this one will not explode haha


----------



## donnydorko

anyone recommendations on which seller to use?


----------



## MontyAC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donnydorko*
> 
> anyone recommendations on which seller to use?


They are all excellent, alot use Green-sum.


----------



## _AKIMbO_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donnydorko*
> 
> anyone recommendations on which seller to use?


I had a very positive experience with bigclothcraft.


----------



## den2178

So I wanted to take the time and share a brief write up on the Crossover 27q I just purchased. I bought it from Accessories Whole on Ebay....paid $377 including shipping. Despite the stupid weekend interfering (haha) it was technically here within 3 days. Korea to Chicago!!! Needless to say I'm impressed on that front and even more so on the monitor. He claims on the website that every monitor shipped is checked for pixel issues (to a varying degree) but the one I received doesn't appear to have any pixel issues. I will note that the monitor was shipped with a think layer of tiny bubble wrap so thats kinda crappy. But no damage to the monitor that I can see so......it also came with the power adapter for US plugs. Overall, pictures don't really do this monitor justice as it looks much better in person. If you're looking for a monitor that is nice and stable I would recommend the Crossover series. The Catleap and Shimian models look nice but this Crossover is very solid. The entire housing is metal and the stand is very stable. Plugging in the power and dvi cable are a pain but I managed. Picture quality is excellent and I'm very happy. I was coming from a 20" Dell Ultrasharp (from like 2006) and I loved the quality on it. Gonna keep it around maybe for sentimental reasons







All in all, if you are in the market for a 27" monitor with a bit more of a classy look, go with a Crossover. Its worth the extra $$.


----------



## pabloedvardo

Can someone with a 2720MDP test the component input to make sure it works at 480p (or at least at any progressive mode) without any display issues?

I had a pre-firmware-fix MDP but it had issues with the component (flickering at the top of the screen).

It's not a terrible monitor for the price, so I might try to get my hands on a revised edition, but I'd really like to know that component works correctly.

Thanks!


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Can someone with a 2720MDP test the component input to make sure it works at 480p (or at least at any progressive mode) without any display issues?
> I had a pre-firmware-fix MDP but it had issues with the component (flickering at the top of the screen).
> It's not a terrible monitor for the price, so I might try to get my hands on a revised edition, but I'd really like to know that component works correctly.
> Thanks!


According to the Korean review, rev has the same problem on the componet input.


----------



## pabloedvardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> According to the Korean review, rev has the same problem on the componet input.


Can you point out the page that says this? I've viewed the translated review but didn't recall anything regarding component (could be a translation problem of course).


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Can you point out the page that says this? I've viewed the translated review but didn't recall anything regarding component (could be a translation problem of course).


It's actually in the comments. Using google translate:

Today, I arrived late in the product and raise test.

Make eye drops the folly by sending a great product scored it. Accept AS saw many, many more than the existing product for the first time to view the AS that sent the defective product.

A. Stand giulyeojim

(Old => AFTER gradually tilted at an angle while covering the matchumyeon.)
(Current => just blindly will tilt forward, even in the back, leaving aside once the OSD button is pressed forward from under (?) Is poured)

Two. Multi-input defects
Component failure
(Old => full-screen at the top spot noise and noise)
(Current => same).

Display Port bad
(Old => maekbukeeoeseo only output is 1280 * 720 resolution, GTX680 not recognized in the monitor).
(Current => 2560 * 1440 output Not until the recognition, but also, GTX680 not recognized in the monitor).

Three. OSD or poor (symptoms caused from this monitor)

Sometimes OSD screen pops. (? Why, why, why?)
OSD button sometimes unresponsive
Sometimes the OSD button changes the role of the (ex) menu by pressing the power off
Sometimes the monitor OSD menu is on the ground bent (? You and why?)
Sometimes the normal

Four. AD board release?

Adhesive to bond away that you must not fixed that. Cracking of the plastic panels at the bottom right of the screen

Jeophayeo saw many, many monitors, but the OSD does anything thing that cycled on and off and never seen as jimam's.
(Wear to the recording played to the camera).

Three weeks because of a stress properly monitor an emailed hear.

Small businesses still want a multi-input capabilities is unreasonable?
Now relax gwansimbak sends keuroseuohbeoran name. bye bye ~


----------



## DaSaint79

What's up w/ the price variations of CrossOver 27Q LED-P? I see them @ ta_planet for sub 300 but at green-sum and dream-seller, they're over 350.

I'm gonna pull the trigger today if I can understand the prices.


----------



## Dabb

I'm guessing you missed out the P&P as I don't see it for under $300 from ta_planet.


----------



## pabloedvardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> It's actually in the comments. Using google translate:
> Today, I arrived late in the product and raise test.
> Make eye drops the folly by sending a great product scored it. Accept AS saw many, many more than the existing product for the first time to view the AS that sent the defective product.
> A. Stand giulyeojim
> (Old => AFTER gradually tilted at an angle while covering the matchumyeon.)
> (Current => just blindly will tilt forward, even in the back, leaving aside once the OSD button is pressed forward from under (?) Is poured)
> Two. Multi-input defects
> Component failure
> (Old => full-screen at the top spot noise and noise)
> (Current => same).
> Display Port bad
> (Old => maekbukeeoeseo only output is 1280 * 720 resolution, GTX680 not recognized in the monitor).
> (Current => 2560 * 1440 output Not until the recognition, but also, GTX680 not recognized in the monitor).
> Three. OSD or poor (symptoms caused from this monitor)
> Sometimes OSD screen pops. (? Why, why, why?)
> OSD button sometimes unresponsive
> Sometimes the OSD button changes the role of the (ex) menu by pressing the power off
> Sometimes the monitor OSD menu is on the ground bent (? You and why?)
> Sometimes the normal
> Four. AD board release?
> Adhesive to bond away that you must not fixed that. Cracking of the plastic panels at the bottom right of the screen
> Jeophayeo saw many, many monitors, but the OSD does anything thing that cycled on and off and never seen as jimam's.
> (Wear to the recording played to the camera).
> Three weeks because of a stress properly monitor an emailed hear.
> Small businesses still want a multi-input capabilities is unreasonable?
> Now relax gwansimbak sends keuroseuohbeoran name. bye bye ~


Wow thanks so much!

This seals the deal, as nice as this monitor looked, I absolutely can't trust it for the Component input.

Now the real test, do I try a $650 MLED and hope it works, or buy 2 27Q's for the same price, and buy a Wii2HDMI adapter? Hmm...


----------



## crashnburn_in

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pabloedvardo*
> 
> Can someone with a 2720MDP test the component input to make sure it works at 480p (or at least at any progressive mode) without any display issues?
> I had a pre-firmware-fix MDP but it had issues with the component (flickering at the top of the screen).
> It's not a terrible monitor for the price, so I might try to get my hands on a revised edition, but I'd really like to know that component works correctly.
> Thanks!


Is there/ was there actually a firmware fix? What does the Fix do.. i.e. What issues does it fix?

Does your Display Port / DP input work at Full Res - 2560 x 1440
Does your HDMI input work at 1920x1080

Anyone?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaSaint79*
> 
> What's up w/ the price variations of CrossOver 27Q LED-P? I see them @ ta_planet for sub 300 but at green-sum and dream-seller, they're over 350.
> I'm gonna pull the trigger today if I can understand the prices.


Interesting. Do share what you figure out once you have resolution on this..


----------



## crashnburn_in

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> It's actually in the comments. Using google translate:
> 
> Today, I arrived late in the product and raise test.
> 
> Make eye drops the folly by sending a great product scored it. Accept AS saw many, many more than the existing product for the first time to view the AS that sent the defective product.
> 
> A. Stand giulyeojim
> 
> (Old => AFTER gradually tilted at an angle while covering the matchumyeon.)
> (Current => just blindly will tilt forward, even in the back, leaving aside once the OSD button is pressed forward from under (?) Is poured)
> 
> Two. Multi-input defects
> Component failure
> (Old => full-screen at the top spot noise and noise)
> (Current => same).
> 
> Display Port bad
> (Old => maekbukeeoeseo only output is 1280 * 720 resolution, GTX680 not recognized in the monitor).
> (Current => 2560 * 1440 output Not until the recognition, but also, GTX680 not recognized in the monitor).
> 
> Three. OSD or poor (symptoms caused from this monitor)
> 
> Sometimes OSD screen pops. (? Why, why, why?)
> OSD button sometimes unresponsive
> Sometimes the OSD button changes the role of the (ex) menu by pressing the power off
> Sometimes the monitor OSD menu is on the ground bent (? You and why?)
> Sometimes the normal
> 
> Four. AD board release?
> 
> Adhesive to bond away that you must not fixed that. Cracking of the plastic panels at the bottom right of the screen
> 
> Jeophayeo saw many, many monitors, but the OSD does anything thing that cycled on and off and never seen as jimam's.
> (Wear to the recording played to the camera).
> 
> Three weeks because of a stress properly monitor an emailed hear.
> 
> Small businesses still want a multi-input capabilities is unreasonable?
> Now relax gwansimbak sends keuroseuohbeoran name. bye bye ~


----------



## Omegawd

Ta_planet has a 27Q LED-P listed for $460, with a "perfect pixel" guarantee. Has anyone ordered one yet? I'm not sure by reading if the guarantee only covers dead pixels, or if stuck pixels are included. For me, the $60 extra would be worth it to guarantee the monitors shows up the way I want it to. The fact that I might end up with up to 5 dead pixels is the only thing that's stopped me from buying one of these monitors. It would drive me nuts, even though it might hardly be noticeable. Any feedback from anyone who's purchased a "perfect pixel" monitor, or just a regular monitor from this seller, would be appreciated.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ta_planet*
> Perfect Pixel Monitor!
> Monitor is investigated LCD pixel program, No dead pixels at all.
> 
> [CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P] 27" COMPUTER Monitor S-IPS DVI-D DUAL QHD 2560X1440 16:9 WIDE
> 
> Please check out before buying.
> 
> Only for PC monitor (one DVI-D port)
> By-Pass model (No Ad board in monitor - Monitor use graphic card resource)
> Perfect Pixel Monitor. Box is opened. Investigated by program.
> PC graphic board should surport DVI-D(Dual link DVI)
> On-board graphic card can not support QHD.
> PC graphic card should surport QHD(2560x1440)
> Updated from 4. May
> Default DC Adapter is FREE Volt (110~240V 50/60Hz)


----------



## DaSaint79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashnburn_in*
> 
> Interesting. Do share what you figure out once you have resolution on this..


I ended up buying the one from Microcenter. Check that thread for ensuing carnage...


----------



## 08silverado

I just got this monitor today, and I am very happy with it so far. I bought it from accessorieswhole on Saturday, he shipped it Monday, and I received it Tuesday (in the US)! 0_o I don't even... pretty amazing. Anyways, I am proud to say that the monitor is dam near close to perfect. There is one very very very tiny stuck/dead pixel at the very top of the screen that can't be seen in the slightest during normal use. I had to search for it with a black background to even find; it's not even worth trying to get rid of. I would give this a pixel perfect, imo, because this pixel could just as easily be a spec of dust than a pixel (I think it's hard to see, because it seems to be a blue/purple color. Thankfully, not green or red!). The colors seem pretty good, however, it is a little blue out of box. I also have a little bit of yellow shading at the bottom and around the edges of the screen (back light bleed?), but it is only noticeable at completely white screens, and I am confident I won't notice it anymore in a weeks time. The display is so clear and games look amazing! I just played a few games and they all looked pristine! It even made games with sub-par graphics look great. I played the original Torchlight and APB: Reloaded, and it made them both look flawless and next-gen! The portrait mode is also pretty cool, and mine does go the full 90 degrees. I'm not sure what else there is to say about it, but this monitor is really great. I recommend it to anyone looking for a cheap solution for a 2560x1440 monitor! I have one question though. When I downloaded and installed the color profile that has been floating around here, I didn't see a difference in color at all. At least none that I could see. Maybe I am uploading it wrong? I looked at how to do it in three different places, followed all the steps and still nothing looks changed. Is it required to restart the computer, before it makes any difference? BTW, I bought the pivot Crossover with no glass; it's the new one with the funky "8" as the "o" (not sure what that crap is about lol). Thanks, and good luck to anyone looking to purchase one of these bad boys!!


----------



## FireBean

I'm going to be joining the Crossover Club pretty soon myself. I just ordered one from Dream-Seller. I'm hoping that it will be here by this Friday or Saturday. Oh my poor poor GTX460 is going to have to put up with 1.2v and 1 Ghz overclock so that I make this playable with my games. Perfect timing to since Diablo 3 is out.. Being impatient is a *****...


----------



## Quindor

I can tell you.... Diablo III looks awesome with this monitor! The fast pixel response helps a lot with keeping the 60FPS scrolling very fluid. Did some BF3 on my old Dell 2005 monitor this weekend (lanparty monitor). Got home, and fell in love with the crossover all over again.







As you can read I'm still enjoying my Crossover very much! Great buy.

I do have a GTX 680 to drive it, so can't say how well your GTX460 will perform.


----------



## Kitarist

Post some pics of it in action


----------



## DaGr8Gatzby

Does anyone know if the 2720MDP looks glossy like the picture on page 1 of this thread?


----------



## pabloedvardo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGr8Gatzby*
> 
> Does anyone know if the 2720MDP looks glossy like the picture on page 1 of this thread?


I can verify that the 2720MDP is glossy.


----------



## DaGr8Gatzby

Decided to take a risk and ordered the 2720MDP. I have two consoles, so if it does not work with both, I will be sending these back. I'll field any questions once I get the monitor.


----------



## bigmike7

Yo-

My CrossOver 27Q from accessorieswhole will be here today according to FedEx tracking - will comment after I set it up and give it a ride-eh!


----------



## FireBean

It does not even look like Dream-Seller shipped my Crossover yet.... Does he give you tracking info? I CANNOT WAIT!


----------



## lavis

Here are a few pics I took with steam in D3. This is on a gtx580. I havn't uploaded other pics yet.

http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/578956129145365580/5DC46C99C63F5DFDD1A8308573BF5A5424D62CDF/
http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/578956129121185132/BA86D16914231102D2165A0A4ED28EB585441195/

Alice Madness Returns:
http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/576703458564796371/E51B0CD244ED26EAFF1D3FA544B2B32325E70FAD/
http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/576703458564836071/15C8ACB912F0880F778C8B5EAE5617025512D68B/
http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/576703458561342772/D686F78FB285BD3EFB94879063AFFBB0C992D5C3/

CS:GO
http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/576703042500807453/BA4D1B92BE1C5767491B2C418DBC1FF090C5A3C7/

Trine 2:
http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/576703042500587825/548A77C5EA693F37752E2A15D7A39CE7FA4A2ECE/

Rage:
http://cloud.steampowered.com/ugc/576703042500176028/AE9CC50C1BA532038DCCF09D0F96242C7C5A32F6/


----------



## FireBean

I'm starting to get a little worried. It seems everyone else got theirs from someone other than Dream-Seller and for about $100 more than mine. I was able to grab a CROSSOVER 27Q LED for $349...

I hope it's not in really bad shape....


----------



## radium69

Soo.... A little update on my Crossovers... I thought I didn't have any dead pixels until I got a nice black background and checked thoroughly and very close...
I could not believe what I saw, and I almost cried when I saw this:


































Extra contrast:









Also it seems the right bottom is not an even surface (the border)









I have not noticed this on the other screen. (seems to be perfect) But this doesn't make sense to me...


----------



## radium69

double post...


----------



## TarballX

I saw a few people with the 2b Catleaps that had the same issue.. Could be isolated, but it's starting to scare me off now that it's appearing on other brands as well..


----------



## radium69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> I saw a few people with the 2b Catleaps that had the same issue.. Could be isolated, but it's starting to scare me off now that it's appearing on other brands as well..


Care to link me to those problems?


----------



## radium69

No worries, seem to be because of the cheap-o engineering and dust coming between the layers AG and glossy and the glass.
Only visible on black background but you need to look very close with your nose against the monitor to be precise.
Tested with different colours, and only on a black or near black background they are visisble.
THEY ARE NOT NOTICABLE WHEN VIEWING FROM A NORMAL OR REASONABLE CLOSE DISTANCE!

So no stuck or dead pixels. Just dust between the layers.
It's quite a shame but iam still very happy with the screens!


----------



## samisnake

Hi Crossover dons,

Im looking at ordering one of the Crossover models.
However, I keep seeing some of the sellers mention DVI-D, but also dual link.

My graphics card (XFX 5770 Single Slot) has two dual link DVI ports, but these are only DVI-I, not DVI-D.

Does anyone know whether I can still use the monitor with a Dual link DVI-I port?


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samisnake*
> 
> Hi Crossover dons,
> Im looking at ordering one of the Crossover models.
> However, I keep seeing some of the sellers mention DVI-D, but also dual link.
> My graphics card (XFX 5770 Single Slot) has two dual link DVI ports, but these are only DVI-I, not DVI-D.
> Does anyone know whether I can still use the monitor with a Dual link DVI-I port?


DVI-I means it supports analog and digital. So yes, it should work fine as long as it's dual-link.


----------



## samisnake

hey,
Yeah I was thinking that, but on some sellers listings, they have a picture showing some cards, which work and which do not, and the 5770 was crossed out, so I thought maybe they knew something different.
Maybe they were just looking at DVI-D info, rather than dual link?


----------



## bigmike7

Yo-

Well - *not* good news - seems that my CrossOver 27Q monitor somehow got stuck in FedEx Anchorage, AK - and the delivery projection is now missing on the FedEx tracking site - sorta reminds me of my high school love life - anyways - I emailed FedEx this afternoon and walla - 58 minutes later it was on its way to Memphis TN - but still no estimated delivery time/date as of this evening - makes one wonder about FedEx-eh!

Edit: OK - FedEx called - said that there were 'mechanical problems' in Anchorage and that the shipment is now heading for Memphis (confirmed) Tracking site now shows it received in Memphis and sent on to Oakland, CA and arrived this morming at 5:08am - so I should have it today (5-18-2012). I'm all excited again-eh!


----------



## MenacingTuba

Got my CrossOver 2720MDP today, no backlight bleeding and only 1 dead pixel. I measured 950:1 contrast out of the box (the non-revised versions were measured to have a contrast of 500:1 by playerwares).

The gamma averaged around 1.8-1.9 out of the box, colour temperature is 6000k and the maximum birghtness was 344cdm/2. There are multiple presets which I need to measure, I hope I can change the OSD language to English.

I made a video, but it is still currently processing:


----------



## bigmike7

Yo-

FedEx delivered my Cross8ver 27Q at 10:28am (she said it would be here before 10:30am - and she was right).

Unit made it thru the FedEx gorillas in great shape.

Picture is outstanding - no dead or stuck pixels!!

I am more than happy with my new monitor-eh!

(btw - absolutely nothing wrong with accessorieswhole packaging - it more than did its job)


----------



## Wiz33

I'm using a ATI HD5770 at the office, When my Catleap Q270 came in. I just want to try it out right away, Even though the 5770 is listed as not compatible on the ebay info. I have no problem getting it to work. I did first set it up as an extended display and once it was detected and set to the correct res, I change it to be primary and unplugged the Dell 2407.


----------



## mpgriffin

My understanding and experience is the diagram some of the sellers show for the supported cards is just that the bios info may not show up for some cards during bootup, but once you get past that initial boot stage any dual link DVI port should output to the display. I have that with my 5770. The two smaller monitors show the bios/bootup info, but once I get to chameleon the Crossover comes to life. There isn't any problem with the monitors once you are actually inside the OS if that's what you're worried about.


----------



## Fallendreams

Ebay warranty worth buying with the monitor ? Anyone buy it ? For 53 more i don't see why not.


----------



## dieselstation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dieselstation*
> 
> Will this stand work on the Crossover?
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/V7-DS1S/17179805


well.. i went ahead and bought it.. and it's pretty awesome. only $40.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Great looking stand! Could you post photos of the front of the monitor with the stand visible? It looked very large, so I thought it'd be too big for this monitor, but it looks fine.


----------



## thesmoth

I have a 2009 macbook pro (13") with integrated nvidia GPU. If I buy this minidisplayport to DVI cable from monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024604&p_id=6000&seq=1&format=2) will this work for the full and proper resolution of this screen?

Thanks for your help, great thread!


----------



## dieselstation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Great looking stand! Could you post photos of the front of the monitor with the stand visible? It looked very large, so I thought it'd be too big for this monitor, but it looks fine.


no problem. here you go. it tilts, rotates, height adjustable, and looks very well built.


----------



## FireBean

Wow.. that looks VERY good. The biggest reason why I choose the Crossover from the others is because of the stand and the attractive bezel. USPS current has mine. Says that it's current being packaged for the flight over here and that was 2 days ago. Knowing the USPS, they'll update the tracking a day or two after it hits my door step.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesmoth*
> 
> I have a 2009 macbook pro (13") with integrated nvidia GPU. If I buy this minidisplayport to DVI cable from monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024604&p_id=6000&seq=1&format=2) will this work for the full and proper resolution of this screen?
> Thanks for your help, great thread!


From the knowledge base:
Quote:


> *Question:* Does this cable support dual-link DVI resolutions?
> *Answer:* No. This cable only provide single-link resolutions (1920x1200 maximum). If dual-link DVI resolutions are necessary, please use product ID 6904.


----------



## thesmoth

Thank you for your help!

Holy christ, $70 for that cable!!!! I guess it also has a thunderbolt cable as well to make it compatible when I upgrade my laptop, but still...


----------



## ElevenEleven

You can plug your own power cable into the power brick that comes with the monitor. I have a display from Red-cap, and I used one of my own power cables (that I have in abundance) with the cord and power brick that came with the display. Works just fine, as per all reports here.


----------



## mpgriffin

Just clarifying what I had said about the 5770 and the Crossover...

The Crossover will display the bios boot sequence for a 5770 in case anyone was wondering. I did an unintentional experiment tonight when I was moving my office around and unplugged the other 2 displays and the Crossover showed the whole thing. It seems it only stays dark during the boot sequence if you have other monitors attached, I'm not sure if that's one or two, but I had all 3 connected and it always stayed dark until I got to the OS loading.

Anyway hope that helps someone.


----------



## cyprusx

Okay so i was about to buy the catleap when i found the crossover which looks alot better, but apparently they all have at least 1 dead pixel, Cant i buy a pixel perfect one like the catleap?


----------



## MrSvahn

I've heard that because this monitor does not have OSD you will get wrong/faulty colors in some programs. That the ICC-profile is not active in them.

How does it work in games such as Diablo 3, BF3, MW3 or VLC-mediaplayer?









Edit: Does a ICC-profile for the crossover work on a Achieva Shimian?


----------



## Davik

So I'm on the verge of buying one of these but I was hoping you guys could clear up a few things that I haven't seen answers for elsewhere. If I've missed them, then feel free to tell me to get lost and go look for them.

I understand that these have no inbuilt scaling or anything, so what happens if you hook it up with a lower resolution? Does it not display, or is it simply bordered by black space?

Is there any way to run games, for example, at a lower resolution than native? Is it possible for a graphics card to render at a lower resolution but scale it up to 2560 x 1440?

I have a reasonable system but I don't think it would handle 2560 x 1440 at decent settings. My previous monitor handled fairly nicely when scaling up when I had an older graphics card, and I was wondering if there was any way to achieve something similar on this.

Cheers guys


----------



## dieselstation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSvahn*
> 
> I've heard that because this monitor does not have OSD you will get wrong/faulty colors in some programs. That the ICC-profile is not active in them.
> How does it work in games such as Diablo 3, BF3, MW3 or VLC-mediaplayer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Does a ICC-profile for the crossover work on a Achieva Shimian?


you could just use PowerStrip to adjust your colors.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSvahn*
> 
> I've heard that because this monitor does not have OSD you will get wrong/faulty colors in some programs. That the ICC-profile is not active in them.
> How does it work in games such as Diablo 3, BF3, MW3 or VLC-mediaplayer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Does a ICC-profile for the crossover work on a Achieva Shimian?


As I replied to your copied post in another thread, I have not encountered this issue yet (with my Achieva ShiMian)


----------



## FireBean

The Crossover monitors apparently have too high of a color temp that needs to be adjusted. There are ppl on here that have uploaded color profiles. Just search around a little... it's only about 1000 posts


----------



## cyprusx

So guys can you buy Pixel perfect ones like the catleap???


----------



## FireBean

I think so, but it's still not suggested. There are alot of people reporting in the other threads that they are still getting some with a dead pixel. IMO, save the $60-100.


----------



## cyprusx

so basically i can spend $400 for a pixel perfect catleap or $400 for a crosover with at-least 1 dead/stuck pixel even if i spend the extra $25 for a pixel check ?


----------



## ElevenEleven

I would not 100% trust Perfect Pixel descriptions. As far as I understand, they mean no bright stuck pixels and are often designated by a manufacturer (for example, PCBank monitors can come with a "Zero Dot" sticker from the factory and are then sold as "perfect pixel", but they can still have dead pixels upon arrival inspection). Some sellers I've contacted said also that when they check for "perfect pixels", they are checking that the monitors are within allowed number of dead pixels (under 5) and don't have a dead pixel in the central area. So take it for what it's worth and make a decision based on a seller you like and product you like. I'd worry about stuck pixels more, as many cannot be fixed and will be more noticeable than tiny black dots.


----------



## SW Simplicity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyprusx*
> 
> so basically i can spend $400 for a pixel perfect catleap or $400 for a crosover with at-least 1 dead/stuck pixel even if i spend the extra $25 for a pixel check ?


I got my Crossover 27Q LED-P last week, bought it with no "Pixel Perfect" nonsense and I don't see what's wrong with it imo. No backlight bleeding, no dead/stuck/bright pixels, nothing. Just proves that you don't HAVE to get a panel that has any (visible) problems. The only issue I have with mine is that the spring in the stand is too strong, it has to be raised up at least 1/3 otherwise it'll just push itself up.

(I have to admit that I didn't do a extremely thorough check for pixels, just went over it quickly and didn't spot anything. I do however display a lot of white/black on the monitor on a daily basis and haven't noticed anything.)


----------



## hungryhippo

Just to add my own experience, after alot of research I got a LED-P for a portrait monitor.

I choose accessorieswhole like alot of other people.

I am very satisfied. I got extremely fast shipping, got the monitor in 2 business days. Also seller sent messages immediately and responded to my questions/concerns.

The monitor seems pretty much ideal without any stuck pixels. Some bleed in the bottom right corner, which in portrait mode is basically unnoticable.

Everything seems perfect so far.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Time to contact the seller


----------



## Davik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Time to contact the seller


Can you keep us updated with which seller and how they respond?


----------



## cyprusx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hungryhippo*
> 
> Just to add my own experience, after alot of research I got a LED-P for a portrait monitor.
> I choose accessorieswhole like alot of other people.
> I am very satisfied. I got extremely fast shipping, got the monitor in 2 business days. Also seller sent messages immediately and responded to my questions/concerns.
> The monitor seems pretty much ideal without any stuck pixels. Some bleed in the bottom right corner, which in portrait mode is basically unnoticable.
> Everything seems perfect so far.


So you have no stuck dead pixels did u buy it over deam seller?


----------



## cyprusx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SW Simplicity*
> 
> I got my Crossover 27Q LED-P last week, bought it with no "Pixel Perfect" nonsense and I don't see what's wrong with it imo. No backlight bleeding, no dead/stuck/bright pixels, nothing. Just proves that you don't HAVE to get a panel that has any (visible) problems. The only issue I have with mine is that the spring in the stand is too strong, it has to be raised up at least 1/3 otherwise it'll just push itself up.
> (I have to admit that I didn't do a extremely thorough check for pixels, just went over it quickly and didn't spot anything. I do however display a lot of white/black on the monitor on a daily basis and haven't noticed anything.)


who did you buy urs off? and should i pay the extra 25 for the pixel check


----------



## FireBean

I got mine from Dream Seller and I do NOT suggest them. Payment was the 15th, did not ship till the 19th and is currently stuck at customs. Go with someone else...


----------



## SW Simplicity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyprusx*
> 
> who did you buy urs off? and should i pay the extra 25 for the pixel check


bought it from Red-Cap. He checks for DOA before shipping. I wouldn't buy the extra pixel guarantee, because like other people stated, it doesn't really affect your chances of getting a monitor without dead/stuck pixels.

FYI, Red-Cap sends the monitor as a gift with a $100 value to minimize customs fee, unfortunately I stil had to pay €47 because of stupid import laws in my country (Netherlands/Holland)


----------



## Spectrum

So should i get one of these from red-cap or bigclothcraft since they include a power adapter? Or is that not an issue? I live in the US btw. Also, if we have to return it won't it cost upwards of $100 for shipping or is that covered by some sellers?


----------



## cyprusx

Okay so should i got with red cap then? his monitors dont have any dead/stuck pixels? and postage is fast


----------



## FireBean

come on people, READ. Red Cap does not check for dead/stuck pixel. He checks to makes sure it turns on and WORKS.


----------



## DaGr8Gatzby

Received my Crossover 2720mdp from accessorieswhole. FAST shipping. Wow I am amazed. I ordered this monitor on Thursday night and it was here by Monday. I have zero dead and stuck pixels. I do not have any flickering issues and the included power brick works just fine (although I do have to use a US adapter).

I haven't calibrated for color temp yet.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davik*
> 
> Can you keep us updated with which seller and how they respond?


I will. I purchased mine from limsunjung.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGr8Gatzby*
> 
> I do not have any flickering issues and the included power brick works just fine (although I do have to use a US adapter).
> I haven't calibrated for color temp yet.


Mine worked properly for a day.....cross your fingers


----------



## cyprusx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGr8Gatzby*
> 
> Received my Crossover 2720mdp from accessorieswhole. FAST shipping. Wow I am amazed. I ordered this monitor on Thursday night and it was here by Monday. I have zero dead and stuck pixels. I do not have any flickering issues and the included power brick works just fine (although I do have to use a US adapter).
> I haven't calibrated for color temp yet.


hey I just messaged your seller who says he guarantee 0 dead pixels but you will get 1-2 stuck pixels, but your saying you didn't get any so I'm confused now








Are stuck pixels permanent


----------



## FireBean

Congrats and getting the 1000th post Cyprusx!


----------



## Kuad

I have now gotten 3 27Q's from AccessorieWhole, they come with a welltronics 110-240v power brick that you just need to get a US plug cord(same as any psu/monitor uses) to go to the brick. Between all 3 monitors there is a total of 1 stuck pixel, 0 dead pixels, very minor bleed on the bottom right of 1 monitor that I don't notice at all while actually using the monitor. They were quick to respond to all my queries, shipping was fast, very satisfied with them as a vendor.


----------



## FueledByPho

I can't decide between two vendors: DcSamsung or Red-cap? Oh gawd so hard to decide


----------



## 1rkrage

I tried offering BCC 340 but it got automatically declined.







is 360 a good value for the monitor?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> I tried offering BCC 340 but it got automatically declined.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is 360 a good value for the monitor?


Payed $409 for mine, no regrets.


----------



## FireBean

I just got mine today from Dream-Seller. I still do not suggest him if you want your monitor quickly. Took over a week to get here. Anyways, I paid $349 and it has no dead or stuck pixels. There is some back-light bleed on the lower left hand side of the screen, but I only notice it in almost all black scenes. I'm very happy with the screen and I'm already starting to hate my GTX460!


----------



## MacGyver1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_AKIMbO_*
> 
> That's AU not USD.


I converted that using URL=http://www.xe.com/ucc/convert/?Amount=300&From=AUD&To=USD comes out to $292.604. Could that still be right? If I am in USA will it let me buy from there?

Edit: I see in the description that it says "Posts to Australia", meaning it will only ship to Australia I guess.


----------



## Sazexa

I'm still waiting a bit to see if companies are following through with Intel's push for high-PPI screens.

Allegedly, Apple is going to keep the MacBook Pros around their price now, but with a 2560 x 1600 screen on the 13.3".

We'll see if that's true, if it is, I'm sure others will catch on and join the movement sooner or later.


----------



## MenacingTuba

My CrossOver 2720MDP is working fine now, I made sure the dual link DVI cord was really firmly fastened in and the flickering went away. It has been working flicker free for a day. This still doesn't explain why it flickered when only my 360 was connected via HDMI.

The seller offered to give me 50$ for my trouble or to take it back, not sure what to do.


----------



## Wiz33

I'm looking at a 2720MDP and although Red-Cap have the lowest price. You cannot get ebay square trade extended warranty with him but you can with dream-seller. Anyone know why that's the case?


----------



## rj2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> I'm looking at a 2720MDP and although Red-Cap have the lowest price. You cannot get ebay square trade extended warranty with him but you can with dream-seller. Anyone know why that's the case?


the square trade waranty can be purchased during checkout on ebay however,

it is my understanding that square trade warranty does not work with items from korea


----------



## grizz288

Buy from bigclothcraft.

I got my crossover a couple week ago with one stuck pixel that has since become unstuck.

Bigclothcraft checks the monitors and other things when you ask him to when he e-mails you to verify your shipping. Its standard policy for him. He was helpful and put a lot of my worries at ease.

My friend bought one from him as well and had the same positive experience. I think he found 2 dead pixels a week into using it.

Hope this helped


----------



## Spectrum

Is there anyway to make an offer but include free shipping in it? I read on another thread for Catleaps that a certain seller will pay for return shipping if a problem arises but he prices things a little to high to begin with so i wanted to make an offer but 'make an offer' oesn't include free shipping and the shipping calculator doesn't work so i can't just add it in...


----------



## VerilyMyNmisNub

I just bought a Crossover 27Q from Dreamseller off of Ebay. (Very pleased with shipping, btw. Free, and got it in four business days.) However, I was not sure at the time whether I would need to do any power adapting. Well, when I plug the monitor in, with the power brick that it came with plugged in to a standard 115V socket, the status light on the monitor turns blue for a few seconds, then the screen flashes once, and the light turns red. I assume this means I need a different power brick? If so, where would you guys recommend I get one from? (Preferably with a rush shipping option... I wanna use my brand new computer!)

Thanks for any suggestions...


----------



## MarkJG

I've got a similar problem with mine. The LED is red if the PC if off, turn the PC on and the LED goes blue, the screen then flashes (you can see the Windows Desktop if you're quick), LED goes purple, then off. It then goes blue again, screen flash, LED off... and so on in a continuous loop.


----------



## DMCrimson

Has anyone encountered delivery problems with Korea Post? They've given me an "insufficient address" issue for a legitimate mailing address and I can't find a contact number for international orders. I've already contacted the vendor (dream seller) about the problem but I'd like to solve this as fast as possible.

My Crossover is in the same city as me, it's so close...

EDIT: Called USPS who were supposed to deliver the package's last leg. They won't change their mistake no matter what and will send back to sender


----------



## Wiz33

Square trade is available on quite a few seller on the varies 27" monitor from Korea. A few people have actually check with ebay and they will honor it starting 45 day after purchase. The only different I see is that it seems to only shows up for Top Rated sellers. I already got a Catleap from Greensum with square trade but I also want one with HDMI and DP. I'm torn between the Crossover (which looks a lot better) and the Auria at Micrometer ( they don't have it in stock local so I have to pay $38 shipping plus tax which makes it about the same as Crossover).


----------



## treefiddy

Received my 27Q LED-P from bigclothcraft earlier in the week (7 calendar days to UK).
Does anyone know if this is HDCP compliant? I'm having a problem with BBC iPlayer. Any ideas?


----------



## Maximumoverload

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> Received my 27Q LED-P from bigclothcraft earlier in the week (7 calendar days to UK).
> Does anyone know if this is HDCP compliant? I'm having a problem with BBC iPlayer. Any ideas?


My Nvidia control panel says that my gpu and display(Crossover 27Q) are HDCP-capable.. So i say YES


----------



## odessa4me

Received my Crossover 2720MDP from accessorieswhole-no dead or stuck pixels,very fast shipping-very happy with it


----------



## Davik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> Does anyone know if this is HDCP compliant? I'm having a problem with BBC iPlayer. Any ideas?


I'm fairly sure iPlayer doesn't use HDCP. I've been using it (in HD when available) for a long time with a 4 and a half year old DGM monitor that doesn't have HDCP.


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximumoverload*
> 
> My Nvidia control panel says that my gpu and display(Crossover 27Q) are HDCP-capable.. So i say YES


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davik*
> 
> I'm fairly sure iPlayer doesn't use HDCP. I've been using it (in HD when available) for a long time with a 4 and a half year old DGM monitor that doesn't have HDCP.


Thanks! Fiddled about with Adobe AIR 3.2, Adobe global storage settings and rebooted a few times. Only after launching iPlayer HD in fullscreen mode would it work. Strange, but true. Working in both HD and standard definition now. iPlayer HD in fullscreen is AWESOME.


----------



## cyprusx

Hey guys just got my crossover very impressed, i was wondering if there's something i need to do to it, like install drivers, adjust colours ect?
Also on a side note the crossover label on the front has changed it doesn't look like the one in all the pics


----------



## C70T5

I have now got a Crossover 27M and a 2720MDP Gold, both with pivot stands.

The 27M is far better. It has a much nicer design and bezel, and the stand is better. The lowest height setting on the 2720MDP Gold is way too high and the bezel cheap. The screen also doesn't appear to as glossy like on the 27M - probably because the bezel is so thick and deep.

I bought the 27M from to.jumiss and the 2720MDP Gold from accessorieswhole. Both have zero dead pixels thank god, but the packaging was much better from accessorieswhole. Really good service.


----------



## hhjj134

what is the difference between 27M and 27Q? i dont see the difference from the spec. what do i miss? 27M is double the price of 27Q.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hhjj134*
> 
> what is the difference between 27M and 27Q? i dont see the difference from the spec. what do i miss? 27M is double the price of 27Q.


Model descriptions are in the first post of this thread, with all the differences and similarities.


----------



## sickntired

Ok,sorry if this has been asked and or answered already, but I am gonna order a 27"Qled-p and i am wondering if any seller includes the correct DVI Dual link cable in the packaging? if not, soemone link a good site to buy it from please, thank you !


----------



## MenacingTuba

They all come with a dual-link dvi cord


----------



## rj2

tuba you posted previously of an issue with your crossover screen flickering-any resolution to that?


----------



## hhjj134

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Model descriptions are in the first post of this thread, with all the differences and similarities.


yea, i saw it, but i just cant find any major differences will make the 27M cost 300 bucks more.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rj2*
> 
> tuba you posted previously of an issue with your crossover screen flickering-any resolution to that?


It works properly now, I had to make sure the dual-link dvi cord was being firmly pressed in and kept level when screwing the L/R pins in. I just made a video today which shows it working properly and, as requested, I tried out the component input.

It flickers @720x480p @ the very top of the screen when using component and when I tried a 1080i HD-DVD @1080p there were very faint parallel lines due to improper scaling, but when set to 1080i the 1080i HD-DVD worked perfectly.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> It works properly now, I had to make sure the dual-link dvi cord was being firmly pressed in and kept level when screwing the L/R pins in. I just made a video today which shows it working properly and, as requested, I tried out the component input.
> It flickers @720x480p @ the very top of the screen when using component and when I tried a 1080i HD-DVD @1080p there were very faint parallel lines due to improper scaling, but when set to 1080i the 1080i HD-DVD worked perfectly.


do u recommnd it? q270 multi perfect pixel can be bought almost $100 less. debate between these two.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> do u recommnd it? q270 multi perfect pixel can be bought almost $100 less. debate between these two.


No since there are likely non-revised CrossOver 2720's being sold by sellers which have horrible performance. The sellers may claim to be selling the revised versions knowing that the average joe won't notice, so I wouldn't take the risk. Go for the Yamakasi Multi or Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSMS if they are less.


----------



## swtech

Ordered the 27Q from bigclothcraft on Sunday night. Shipped via DHL yesterday but not showing up on the DHL site yet. Hoping I get a good one.









Thanks for all the information posted here. Helped me decide to place the order. Looking forward to receiving it.


----------



## ilocos boy

Just recieved my CrossOver 27Q LED-P From bigclothcraft Today But i have issue a big line in the middle of the screen anybody thesame issue


----------



## swtech

Figures, right after I posted about buying from the same seller. Hope your problem gets resolved ilocos boy. I read somewhere that bad pixels can turn into lines like the one you are describing, not sure how valid it is though.


----------



## ilocos boy

Well just E-MAIL hin sent picture and I'm waiting for his reply....


----------



## sickntired

I am gonna order a Crossover 27QLED-P from acessorieswhole, they look to be the best seller on eBay for that model, if anyone has any advice otherwise or agreeing it would be appreciated! I am still a little worried about this whole thing,but the wanting of the 2560x1440p at $399 dollars shipped with 240v adapter as well as guarantee of no stuck pixels/ no more then 2 dead pixels. Also 30 day money back they offer, just have to pay for shipping.This has me leaning towards grabbing one!


----------



## evilbone

Just received a Crossover 27Q LED-P from bigclothcraft. Screen is beautiful as described here and construction is solid. It looks like I have a stuck blue pixel but I could not pick it out until I did some generic screen tests.

Shipping was fairly quick as I ordered 5/23 and it arrived 3 business days later with bigclothcraft shipping it the same day I ordered (next day for them). Peanuts in ziplock bags were packed inside the monitor box around the stand with some extra foam wrap filling voids as well. Inside was a 100-240V power brick, DVI cable, and US plug adapter. DHL got the box to me without punching any holes in it so I am happy with shipping.

Overall, for $380 with shipping to Seattle, this is a smoking deal and a beautiful screen. bigclothcraft has great communication and was quick to respond to emails.


----------



## sickntired

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilbone*
> 
> Just received a Crossover 27Q LED-P from bigclothcraft. Screen is beautiful as described here and construction is solid. It looks like I have a stuck blue pixel but I could not pick it out until I did some generic screen tests.
> Shipping was fairly quick as I ordered 5/23 and it arrived 3 business days later with bigclothcraft shipping it the same day I ordered (next day for them). Peanuts in ziplock bags were packed inside the monitor box around the stand with some extra foam wrap filling voids as well. Inside was a 100-240V power brick, DVI cable, and US plug adapter. DHL got the box to me without punching any holes in it so I am happy with shipping.
> Overall, for $380 with shipping to Seattle, this is a smoking deal and a beautiful screen. bigclothcraft has great communication and was quick to respond to emails.


Funny thing is between bigclothcraft and accessories whole they are both selling they exact same monitor but, accessorieswhole claims theirs is 420 cd/m² and bigclothcraft claims theirs is 380 cd/m² . What is the deal with that?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sickntired*
> 
> Funny thing is between bigclothcraft and accessories whole they are both selling they exact same monitor but, accessorieswhole claims theirs is 420 cd/m² and bigclothcraft claims theirs is 380 cd/m² . What is the deal with that?


Maybe using different control boards? Or someone is not listing it correctly...


----------



## sickntired

This makes me wonder who i should buy from between the two,they both seem neck and neck as the top two on eBay?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Any one vesa mount their CrossOver 2720MDP yet?


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sickntired*
> 
> I am gonna order a Crossover 27QLED-P from acessorieswhole, they look to be the best seller on eBay for that model, if anyone has any advice otherwise or agreeing it would be appreciated! I am still a little worried about this whole thing,but the wanting of the 2560x1440p at $399 dollars shipped with 240v adapter as well as guarantee of no stuck pixels/ no more then 2 dead pixels. Also 30 day money back they offer, just have to pay for shipping.This has me leaning towards grabbing one!


Accessorieswhole is great. The shipping is ridiculously fast, and the guy gives a great service. I will be ordering a second one from him sometime in the future (although it will probable be awhile). I highly recommend the seller.


----------



## sickntired

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *08silverado*
> 
> Accessorieswhole is great. The shipping is ridiculously fast, and the guy gives a great service. I will be ordering a second one from him sometime in the future (although it will probable be awhile). I highly recommend the seller.


I went ahead a just ordered from Accessorieswhole , I have my fingers crossed!


----------



## braveblade

just noticed that is a 2720mdp with pivot stand available...


----------



## C70T5

I have a 27M, and the difference between that and a normal 27Q is the OSD options to adjust the colours, it also has HDMI input and a scaler. Hence it costs more.

The weird thing is that the 2720MDP also does all these extra things, and even has an additional HDMI port and a Displayport but costs less. I only ascertain this to be due to the design..... the 2720MDP has a cheap design with deep bezel whereas the 27M and 27Q are much sleeker.

I have the 2720MDP with the pivot stand and it sits much higher at the lowest setting than the 27Q/27M at its lowest setting. I don't get it because it looks like they're both using the same stand.


----------



## treefiddy

I notice that the 27M is not listed on the manufacturer's website - is this because it is discontinued?
I was interested in this model, but despite the brochure pics showing picture-in-picture function and a remote control, I was not convinced that the price premium was justified. How different are the 27Q LED-P and the 2720MDP-P in appearance?

http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=3020MDP


----------



## Crash55

Ordered from accessorieswhole on Mon and arrived in upstate NY today. Packaging was simply bubblewrap over the monitor box but came through fine.

110V-240V power brick was included as well as a Korean to US plug adapter. You can simply replace the lead with a standard PC power cord and avoid needing the plug adapter. There was a note about putting the flat side towards the unit but this adapter didn't have a flat side, instead it had a detent so there was only one way to insert it.

As far as I can tell there are no dead or stuck pixels. The logo has the weird C but also a double circle between the o and v.


----------



## starforge911

Hello everyone, I have bought CROSSOVER 2720MDP GOLD LED 27" from dreamseller. Has anyone bought this series from this seller. Questions is how can I know my monitor is old version or not? I heard that this monitor has terrible review.


----------



## tael

Are any sellers still opening them up and checking them before they send? I remember reading about 1 or 2 sellers doing this a while ago, but not sure who or if it was even for Crossovers for sure.
I'm in Hawaii and if I get a bad one... The shipping is almost certainly going to kill me.


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tael*
> 
> Are any sellers still opening them up and checking them before they send? I remember reading about 1 or 2 sellers doing this a while ago, but not sure who or if it was even for Crossovers for sure.
> I'm in Hawaii and if I get a bad one... The shipping is almost certainly going to kill me.


Accessorieswhole checks that there is no more than 2 dead/stuck pixels before shipping.


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *08silverado*
> 
> Accessorieswhole checks that there is no more than 2 dead/stuck pixels before shipping.


Sounds like exactly what I am looking for!
I'll check them out when I get off work. (Ebay blocked...)
I just want to have the smallest possible chance of just getting DOA or a screen of dead pixels.
I'm pretty ok with just a couple I think. I still have to gamble with the damn handling here though. I've gotten amazon boxes with the entire bottom ripped off. (Stuff inside made it somehow though)


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tael*
> 
> Are any sellers still opening them up and checking them before they send? I remember reading about 1 or 2 sellers doing this a while ago, but not sure who or if it was even for Crossovers for sure.
> I'm in Hawaii and if I get a bad one... The shipping is almost certainly going to kill me.


Yo-

If you go with 'accessorieswhole' (like I did) - not only do they inspect the unit - but you also get an "A1' panel rather than a "A1-" panel that others are selling.

For an additional $54 - you can get a really good Square Trade 3 year warranty.

Accessorieswhole uses FedEx exclusively and they are pretty gentle with shipments (as opposed to DHL and USPS)

All these factors should put your fears at rest.

(btw - I really love my CrossOver 27Q monitor!!)


----------



## Neo Mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> If you go with 'accessorieswhole' (like I did) - not only do they inspect the unit - but you also get an "A1' panel rather than a "A1-" panel that others are selling.
> For an additional $54 - you can get a really good Square Trade 3 year warranty.
> All these factors should put your fears at rest.
> (btw - I really love my CrossOver 27Q monitor!!)


There checking the monitor before it leaves only shows it wasnt DOA when they shipped it, i ordered from him and baddddd baddd light bleed on mine.


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> There checking the monitor before it leaves only shows it wasnt DOA when they shipped it, i ordered from him and baddddd baddd light bleed on mine.


Yo Neo Mike-

I wasn't there when they checked mine - but mine has zero dead and zero stuck pixels - the faint light bleed that I have apparently comes from the on/off switch light in the bottom right hand corner-eh.


----------



## tael

Thanks for the reply.
Sounds like accessorieswhole is a good choice then.

I think I have it narrowed to him or possibly bigclothcraft for a yamakasi.

I was originally waiting for one of the special order 2B yamakasi's, but the price is a bit steeper than I like and the guarantees for issues seems a little harder to deal with.
Plus I can switch to my 120hz monitor for FPS if the delay/smoothness is bothering me.

Will do a little more research when I'm off and probably pull the trigger in the next couple days.


----------



## olivierhacking

How will the GTX 260 Core 216 do with this resolution for normal desktop use? (Does have Dual Link DVI)
And for gaming? Will BF3 run at 30-40 fps with low settings, no AA, no AF?
All on the full resolution of course.


----------



## ctbear

I am looking to purchase a CrossOver pretty soon from Accessorieswhole on Ebay (They seem to be the most reliable seller after doing some research). Some questions:

1) Is there a 100% working pixel guarantee?
2) Did you ask for the American adapter or was it provided automatically? (some people are saying that Accessorieswhole is providing the correct adapter, which runs much cooler, which is another reason for me to pick this seller on Ebay)
3) Is it only dual link DVI port? Can I use just one HDMI cable or just one Displayport cable to run this monitor? (Is there a version that has these inputs)?
4) How are people adjusting the monitor for color correction without spending another $200 on those colorimeters?
5) How much was the import tax, fees? How much did you pay in total?

Thank you!


----------



## mendo

I just registered to be able to vote on the poll above. Also to tell you all how awesome this monitor is!

Bought the monitor from dcsamsungmall. A lot of users have positive experience and fast shipping time through this seller, so I bought from him instead of the others. I live in Phoenix, AZ, but it was at my front door 2 business days after I ordered it. Pretty amazing considering the last item I bought from the east nearly took 2 weeks.

I checked out the monitor right away and my gosh, this thing is awesome (by comparison, I have an older 19" VA1912wb Viewsonic monitor). The colors are rich & bright and the texts are so sharp compared to my old dinosaur. Also because of the 2560x1440 resolution, I am able to have 2 web browsers next to each other at full view. I no longer have to scroll left & right like I did with my old monitor.

That's my experience so far. Awesome monitor for a great price. I may have to buy another.


----------



## 08silverado

1) Is there a 100% working pixel guarantee?
Not from AccessoriesWhole. They guarantee no more than 2 dead/stuck pixels. Someone else may off pixel perfect, but I am not sure.
2) Did you ask for the American adapter or was it provided automatically? (some people are saying that Accessorieswhole is providing the correct adapter, which runs much cooler, which is another reason for me to pick this seller on Ebay)
I asked for it, but the listing says you can either request one, or he will choose the correct one depending on the shipping location.
3) Is it only dual link DVI port? Can I use just one HDMI cable or just one Displayport cable to run this monitor? (Is there a version that has these inputs)?
Only Dual link DVI on the 27Q. The other models (27M and 2720MDP I think) have other input types.
4) How are people adjusting the monitor for color correction without spending another $200 on those colorimeters?
This can be done just using your eyes, but it would be hard. You can obtains a Spyder 4 colorimeter for fairly cheap. Be sure to get a pro or elite version if you need advanced options or multiple monitor calibration.
5) How much was the import tax, fees? How much did you pay in total?
No import fees for me to California. Item came from AccessoriesWhole in one day; it was amazing.

I highly recommend AccessoriesWhole, as they offer a great service: prompt response, great shipping, checking monitor for DOA (and over 2 dead pixels), and a decent price.


----------



## braveblade

I think I'm going to pull the trigger for 2720mdp pivot. It's a new model so updated version guaranteed?


----------



## swtech

Ordered 27Q on Sunday 27th, DHL attempted delivery today. Ordered from bigclothcraft, should have ordered from accessorieswhole. Hopefully the monitor will be a good one.


----------



## watsaname

Hello fellow members! I have been going back and forth about whether to buy one of these amazing yet cheap monitors. If I do decide to buy one, my thought are will it work out of the box? I live in Southern California, so Korea and the U.S. don't exactly have the same outlets or power coming out of the outlets for that matter. I just don't want to plug it in to the wall and something starts blowing up because of differences in the power coming from the wall is not enough or is too much. Thanks for any feedback!


----------



## Neo Mike

I live in southern CA to, most of the sellers, not all will include plug that will work in the USA. Make sure before you order it comes with USA plug.


----------



## watsaname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> I live in southern CA to, most of the sellers, not all will include plug that will work in the USA. Make sure before you order it comes with USA plug.


I was thinking about going through Accessorieswhole as they seem to have one of the better track records. They also have there 2stuck/dead pixel policy, which I think can alleviate some of the stress that comes from buying a monitor from across the sea with no warranty.


----------



## freenor

Hello all,

I'm new on this forum and happy to see this thread on this monitor
I'm french, so sorry for my english,

I buy this monitor CrossOver 27Q LED-P and received it yesterday, so much happy, the delivery takes 3 days !

my graphic card is an Asus EAH6970 DCII

I plug the power supplie, the DVI Dual, and switch on my computer
but no signal video, the crossover still in RED led for the power

I test the DVI dual cable on my other monitor, and it's seems ok

I will test this week end with another graphic card, but, did someone have this problem ?

thanks a lot


----------



## sbuck333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freenor*
> 
> Hello all,
> I'm new on this forum and happy to see this thread on this monitor
> I'm french, so sorry for my english,
> I buy this monitor CrossOver 27Q LED-P and received it yesterday, so much happy, the delivery takes 3 days !
> my graphic card is an Asus EAH6970 DCII
> I plug the power supplie, the DVI Dual, and switch on my computer
> but no signal video, the crossover still in RED led for the power
> I test the DVI dual cable on my other monitor, and it's seems ok
> I will test this week end with another graphic card, but, did someone have this problem ?
> thanks a lot


there may be a physical switch on your 6970 that changes the card from single-link to dual-link on the connectors, some 6970 have the DVI switch instead of the dual-bios switch
it will be on the top left area of the card near the PCI bracket if I am not mistaken

edit: yes, this is the case. source: http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-radeon-6970-directcu-ii-review/21


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> there may be a physical switch on your 6970 that changes the card from single-link to dual-link on the connectors, some 6970 have the DVI switch instead of the dual-bios switch
> it will be on the top left area of the card near the PCI bracket if I am not mistaken
> edit: yes, this is the case. source: http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-radeon-6970-directcu-ii-review/21


It has nothing to do with the BIOS switch.

The 6970 has 1x Dual Link DVI port and 1x Single Link DVI port. Try the cable in the other port.


----------



## freenor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> there may be a physical switch on your 6970 that changes the card from single-link to dual-link on the connectors, some 6970 have the DVI switch instead of the dual-bios switch
> it will be on the top left area of the card near the PCI bracket if I am not mistaken
> edit: yes, this is the case. source: http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-radeon-6970-directcu-ii-review/21


Thanks a lot, it's seem to be that, I test tonight

treefiddy : http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-radeon-6970-directcu-ii-review/21

"update - there is a switch on the card that can select single link & dual link. All due to there is only 6 deck slots in the AMD GPU , ASUS needs to do this to make sure people able to use dual link after the switch, so:

Factory switch : single link x2 + 4 DP
After switch : 3DP + single link + dual link"


----------



## treefiddy

Ah, it's unique to the Asus 6970.


----------



## slice259

Well after reading nearly the entire thread, I have come to some conclusion's. Accessories-Whole appears to be one of the better seller's for Crossovers, but after further reading it appears almost every buyer has had perfect monitors with Red-Cap. Returning and such may not be as good but no dead pixels seems to be worth it. What are your thoughts on this idea ? Thanks


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> Well after reading nearly the entire thread, I have come to some conclusion's. Accessories-Whole appears to be one of the better seller's for Crossovers, but after further reading it appears almost every buyer has had perfect monitors with Red-Cap. Returning and such may not be as good but no dead pixels seems to be worth it. What are your thoughts on this idea ? Thanks


I bought 3 from Red-Cap. No defective panel in the lot. I bought the ones with the pivot and one of the pivot was a little bit smashed but I was able to force it back to place. The Box was not damage, it was a factory defect.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slice259*
> 
> Well after reading nearly the entire thread, I have come to some conclusion's. Accessories-Whole appears to be one of the better seller's for Crossovers, but after further reading it appears almost every buyer has had perfect monitors with Red-Cap. Returning and such may not be as good but no dead pixels seems to be worth it. What are your thoughts on this idea ? Thanks


Getting a perfect monitor is random luck. I have an Achieva ShiMian from Red-Cap, and it is not pixel-perfect (though I am unable to see it unless I stick my nose to the screen and look at certain color backgrounds).


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I bought 3 from Red-Cap. No defective panel in the lot. I bought the ones with the pivot and one of the pivot was a little bit smashed but I was able to force it back to place. The Box was not damage, it was a factory defect.


Thanks for the response KaRLiToS, I was mainly referring to your luck with Red-Cap. Like I said Accessories-Wholes looks nice but it seems every single person is getting at lest 1 stuck green pixel ect. Where as you and others have gotten near perfect monitors through Red-Cap. How was red-cap to deal with ? The 14 return (Red-Cap ) vs the 30 (accessories-whole) has me a bit un-easy. Overall how has your experience been with your set of crossovers KaRLiToS? I have a 40" Samsung 1080P currently, and I am in love with going from 1080P to 2560x1440 but 40" to 27" has me a little worried as I love having a large monitor. Thanks again


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Getting a perfect monitor is random luck. I have an Achieva ShiMian from Red-Cap, and it is not pixel-perfect (though I am unable to see it unless I stick my nose to the screen and look at certain color backgrounds).


If luck is the prevailing median then Accessories-Whole appears to be a overall better Seller in terms of 400 Dollars of my money heading to South Korea.


----------



## apav

How frequent do these monitors come with a blue tint? I've been doing my research and I hear this tint plagues a lot of CrossOvers. I'm considering this, the Catleap and the PC Bank 3 View. I heard that the PC Bank _may_ be better than the rest with a higher contrast ratio and less input lag. But the stand looks flimsier on the PC Bank and I'm not sure if the performance will make a difference. What do you guys think?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> How frequent do these monitors come with a blue tint? I've been doing my research and I hear this tint plagues a lot of CrossOvers. I'm considering this, the Catleap and the PC Bank 3 View. I heard that the PC Bank _may_ be better than the rest with a higher contrast ratio and less input lag. But the stand looks flimsier on the PC Bank and I'm not sure if the performance will make a difference. What do you guys think?


Mine did have a slight blue tint to it, it wasn't very noticeable. But it was be resolved with this http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm


----------



## swtech

My 27q arrived today. Looks perfect however the box was ripped open on the screen side







. I could reach in and touch the screen, thought there must be some damage. Fortunately it is ok. There was no bubble wrap, just the box with an sheet of brown shipping paper taped over it.

I've only had it on for about an hour though, so time will tell.

Beautiful monitor though.


----------



## slice259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swtech*
> 
> My 27q arrived today. Looks perfect however the box was ripped open on the screen side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I could reach in and touch the screen, thought there must be some damage. Fortunately it is ok. There was no bubble wrap, just the box with an sheet of brown shipping paper taped over it.
> I've only had it on for about an hour though, so time will tell.
> Beautiful monitor though.


Which seller on Ebay did you go through if you don't mind me asking ?


----------



## Polarity

just go for accessorieswhole...thats who im going for when i get 150$ more they have 0 dead pixel policy and only 2 stuck pixel

or u can go for bigclothcraft or something like that he checks the monitor for 1-2 days before shipping


----------



## swtech

I bought through bigclothcraft. Would go through accessorieswhole if I buy another.


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> How frequent do these monitors come with a blue tint? I've been doing my research and I hear this tint plagues a lot of CrossOvers. I'm considering this, the Catleap and the PC Bank 3 View. I heard that the PC Bank _may_ be better than the rest with a higher contrast ratio and less input lag. But the stand looks flimsier on the PC Bank and I'm not sure if the performance will make a difference. What do you guys think?


My coworker has the PC Bank, I have the Catleap. I have had no issues with mine, he has had some minor issues with his, including dust in the screen.

I would go with the Catleap.


----------



## Polarity

ima just go with the crossover Q-LED-P because the stand looks amazing to me xD i hope the power brick that
accessorieswhole is really durable







i dont want to sepnd 100+ for another one X_X


----------



## thesmoth

I just got my crossover 27Q IPS LED monitor, installed the calibration profile available online, and have it plugged into my 2009 13" macbook pro through a minidisplayport + USB to duallink DVI adapter (full 2400 x 1400 res) and it looks terrible. The quality of my laptop screen is much better, the colours are blocky and washed out, etc... everything looks dull and dim. What is this?

Why does this monitor have such good rviews, it looks terrible compared to the 27" imacs and 27" cinema display. What could possibly be wrong with my setup? Right now I have it as a second display, so i'm using my macbook pro display at the same time, is this the problem?


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesmoth*
> 
> I just got my crossover 27Q IPS LED monitor, installed the calibration profile available online, and have it plugged into my 2009 13" macbook pro through a minidisplayport + USB to duallink DVI adapter (full 2400 x 1400 res) and it looks terrible. The quality of my laptop screen is much better, the colours are blocky and washed out, etc... everything looks dull and dim. What is this?
> Why does this monitor have such good rviews, it looks terrible compared to the 27" imacs and 27" cinema display. What could possibly be wrong with my setup? Right now I have it as a second display, so i'm using my macbook pro display at the same time, is this the problem?


Wrong resolution. Needs to be 2560 x 1440, not 2400 x 1400.


----------



## thesmoth

Yes sorry, I typed it incorrectly. It is indeed correct. I cannot change the contrast on the screen, which also makes it tough (only brightness setting available).

What calibration profile is best? The one I downloaded (and any other presets) make it looks terrible in comparision to an imac or cinema display.

VERY disapointed.


----------



## ElevenEleven

All the screens have minor differences, so a calibration that works for one person may not work for another. You should look around this thread and other Korean monitor threads on OC.N, and you'll find quite a few calibration profiles, some of which might look good to you. I downloaded something like 9, out of which 3 look great and the rest look way off (for my Achieva ShiMian).

I live near a Microcenter, and I've had many looks at the 27" Apple displays, and mine is identical in terms of color quality, sharpness, etc. I actually like the look of my tempered glass Achieva monitor bezel more


----------



## treefiddy

I've now downloaded the 27Q colour profile in 10.7.4 Lion to the Colorsync utility, then selected this profile in Display preferences and ran the Calibration assistant.

The uncalibrated downloaded profile looks less blue, is darker and has a slight sepia-pink hue compared to the factory settings. After calibration the result is midway between the 2 profiles in brightness and hue. I'll go with this.


----------



## olivierhacking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olivierhacking*
> 
> How will the GTX 260 Core 216 do with this resolution for normal desktop use? (Does have Dual Link DVI)
> And for gaming? Will BF3 run at 30-40 fps with low settings, no AA, no AF?
> All on the full resolution of course.


No one??? :/


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> I heard that Accessorieswhole is about to listing perfect pixel monitors soon.
> Though, only 60 monitors will be available and of course it will be extra bucks than purchasing existing what..1-2 stuck pixel monitor.
> So, I'm thinking to wait till next week and see price and policy.
> If otherthan that, definitely purchase one from Accessorieswhole.
> I don't want to lose this chance of getting perfect pixel monitor.


Advertisement post?


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> I heard that Accessorieswhole is about to listing perfect pixel monitors soon.
> Though, only 60 monitors will be available and of course it will be extra bucks than purchasing existing what..1-2 stuck pixel monitor.
> So, I'm thinking to wait till next week and see price and policy.
> If otherthan that, definitely purchase one from Accessorieswhole.
> I don't want to lose this chance of getting perfect pixel monitor.


Yo-

My *CrossOver 27Q* from accessorieswhole came with *zero* dead and *zero* stuck pixels and many others say the same thing about their monitors from accessorieswhole - I personally would *not* pay extra for a so called 'perfect pixel'-eh.

Accessorieswhole does *not* say that they are going to send you a monitor with 2 stuck pixels - it states that they will only send you a panel with 2 *maximum* stuck pixels.

Remember - accessorieswhole is selling "A1" panel monitors and the others are selling "A1*-*" panel monitors. (the minus sign meaning a lesser quality panel)


----------



## freenor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> there may be a physical switch on your 6970 that changes the card from single-link to dual-link on the connectors, some 6970 have the DVI switch instead of the dual-bios switch
> it will be on the top left area of the card near the PCI bracket if I am not mistaken
> edit: yes, this is the case. source: http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-radeon-6970-directcu-ii-review/21


I changes the connector on my Asus 6970 DCII and my monitor works great !!
thanks for you help


----------



## Koehler

What's the difference between the CrossOver and the Yamakasi monitors?


----------



## eduarcor

Hello guys,

This is my first post. Hello everybody!
Just one stupid question, why the monitor 27M LED is more expensive than 2720MDP GOLD LED, if supposedly is better...
Same panel, both with multiconnections and the second one hast the 10 bit dithering. For that reason I don't understand why is like that.

Thanks.

E.


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduarcor*
> 
> Hello guys,
> This is my first post. Hello everybody!
> Just one stupid question, why the monitor 27M LED is more expensive than 2720MDP GOLD LED, if supposedly is better...
> Same panel, both with multiconnections and the second one hast the 10 bit dithering. For that reason I don't understand why is like that.
> Thanks.
> E.


I don't think the 27M LED is a current model - it's not listed on the manufacturer's website.
The 27M LED had picture-in-picture and had the same styling as the 27Q LED-P, with a white metal back and pivot stand.
The new 2720MDP doesn't have picture-in-picture, is offered in pivot and non-pivot versions and has a leather-look plastic back instead of white metal.


----------



## semajha

So other than the new MDP having more inputs and a different enclosure is there anything else that it has over the standard 27Q? I don't care for pivoting, tempered glass, built in speakers or any of that jazz but if the newer mdp model has much better picture quality than I might consider going for that.


----------



## Futzy

I should be ordering a 27Q tonight, is accessorieswhole still the best seller to go with?


----------



## Koehler

Would CrossOver be better for photo editing? Help... my friend wants to buy one.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Would CrossOver be better for photo editing? Help... my friend wants to buy one.


Better than what?

Yamakasi Catleap, Achievea Shimian, PC BANK and Crossover will all suffice for most photo editors. Tell your friend to pick which one he likes the look of the most since they all use the same panel and have similar performance. Be warned about the CrossOver 27Q LED-P model though since many have come with a strong blue tint.


----------



## semajha

^ isn't the blue tint fixable with a color calibration though?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Better than what?
> Yamakasi Catleap, Achievea Shimian, PC BANK and Crossover will all suffice for most photo editors. Tell your friend to pick which one he likes the look of the most since they all use the same panel and have similar performance. Be warned about the CrossOver 27Q LED-P model though since many have come with a strong blue tint.


I'm really confused with Yamakasi, Achieva, PC BANK, CrossOver, etc. Aren't these made by the same company?

Yes my friend has just bought a Yamakasi Perfect Pixel version.

My other friend has a Yamakasi and he said that its really excellent image quality. I had a look and the resolution was amazing with very high color quality. My only concern is if it is suitable for professional photo editors, but my friend just bought it so I guess he'll find out.


----------



## Kitarist

So which of these monitors is the best to go with if you only need DVi with no other features and just want something realible and something that looks and works great


----------



## sickntired

I finally got my 27Q led-p crossover that I ordered from Accessorieswhole on 5-31-12 and recieved it yesterday on 6-04-12. Let me tell you how amazingly surprised I was to find out when I plugged it in and turned it on that there are NO stuck/dead pixels as well as No bluetint or backlight bleed or NO PROBLEMS ALL with this monitor. A+ picture,included powerbrick and dual link dvi. So, who ever is on fence about purchasing this and from what seller, definately go with Accessorieswhole!


----------



## WhompDbomp

I would also recommend Accessorieswhole and the Crossover. Not really worried about the 100hz+, just because the only game I play is D3. Delivery is really fast and to my eyes, my monitor is perfect. Like a lot of people, I was a bit hesitant about buying a monitor from Korea that had not really been tested here, but the picture is absolutely stunning and worth every penny paid and supplemented with the square trade 3 yr warranty (~$53)


----------



## Polarity

looks like they changed the policy on the crossover for accessorieswhole its now 1 dead pixel and maximum of 3 stuck pixel....

man i wish i had order when it was 0/2 X_X instead of 1/3

do u guys still think its worth the risk or should i wait :O?

i have a feelign since their selling perfect monitors now that their going to ship whoever didnt get the perfect 1 dead pixel...X_X


----------



## WhompDbomp

Ya, looks like they bumped pixel perfect to $477 on his store...but still, thats a possibility of 4 bad pixels..for the non-perfect model.($400)..as long as they're not together, or mid screen, probably be pretty hard to notice.


----------



## Futzy

I just ordered a 27Q from him today, hope mine isn't gimped :/


----------



## 08silverado

I ended up having money to buy another CrossOver much sooner than I thought. I emailed AccessoriesWhole to see if they would do me an added service, because I was a returning customer. The first monitor had back light bleed and a stuck pixel, so I requested that they check it for bleeding. They instantly replied and said they would check it for me for free, because I was a returning customer. They sent it out the next day, and it was here in 1 day. Perfect panel... for free. No bleed, no dead/stuck pixels, color looks spot on. I am very happy with their service and loyalty to their customers. The only downside to the new monitor is that it shows just how blue the other one is. The difference is night and day, but this will all be fixed soon, when I buy a colorimeter. Again, I highly recommend them; their service is amazing, and they are extremely friendly. You won't regret purchasing from them.

P.S. Please don't expect AccessoriesWhole to extend the same services to you that they did for me for free, as I was a returning customer and an exception to their normal policy. Please remember that they are in the business of making money, and that courtesies such as these may not always be an option. If you need pixel perfect, then I would suggest paying the extra for it. I wrote this simply to show how user friendly and polite they are. Again, I highly suggest them.


----------



## vltor

would anyone recommend i get a new monitor with my computer specs?


----------



## braveblade

perfect pixel is nice, but $499 what a rip off!!!


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vltor*
> 
> would anyone recommend i get a new monitor with my computer specs?


Do you plan on playing video games with it?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vltor*
> 
> would anyone recommend i get a new monitor with my computer specs?


Not if you plan on gaming.


----------



## vltor

no i dont plan to play game with it


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vltor*
> 
> no i dont plan to play game with it


Should be fine then.


----------



## vltor

can you tell me the perks of getting this monitor if you dont game.


----------



## Fatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vltor*
> 
> can you tell me the perks of getting this monitor if you dont game.


The crossover seems to be the better built monitor, and has the best stand out of the box. Visually there is no difference in the displays, just depends on what you want in regard to form and function. The Crossover LED-P has a height adjustable stand, which actually works decently well. I feel my crossover is well built, and was very well packed and protected in the packaging. For me this is the main differentiating factor between he crossovers, and the others.

Besides that the perks of a 27" IPS display are more obvious, higher pixel density, and remarkable image quality. You will also have more work space than with a 1080p display, even if your not gaming one of these displays are well worth it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Does the 27Q version come with a plastic front bezel or is it all aluminum? How flush with the screen is the bezel? Also, the white bottom stand is plastic? And finally, this model has a fully white stand, right? Some photos of it show a black stand with white trim, which is slightly confusing, but I think they imply a different model. Thanks!


----------



## Polarity

so should i go with BCC or should i still go with accessorieswhole on making purchase? 

their both the same to me but BCC is 20$ cheaper.... and they dont offer perfect pixel so i have a chance still ending up with a nice monitor


----------



## MontyAC

I went with BCC when I bought my PCBANK cause his price was the lowest. Just go with the seller with the lowest price.


----------



## swtech

I ordered from bcc, I did get a good monitor, one stuck pixel. Shipping was slower and there was no additional packing/protection on the box.


----------



## Fatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Does the 27Q version come with a plastic front bezel or is it all aluminum? How flush with the screen is the bezel? Also, the white bottom stand is plastic? And finally, this model has a fully white stand, right? Some photos of it show a black stand with white trim, which is slightly confusing, but I think they imply a different model. Thanks!


The front bezel is plastic, while the white rear trim is steel. The bezel is about 2mm or 3mm thick, as in the screen is 2mm recessed into the bezel. It is more flush then my old ASUS 24" TN monitor. The stand is a mix of black and white, the base is black with a white trim. The rear of the monitor and the rear of the stand is all white. The actual stand is black metal, with a white plastic covering on the back.

I got mine from bigclothcraft, he checked it for excessive dead pixels and back light bleeding for shipping, and my crossover all came with a welltronics 110v power supply.

EDIT:







just remembered the LED, and the LED-P have different stands and they look different. The LED is the normal stand and only has tilt adjustments, and is the one I described above. The LED-P model is the height adjustable stand, and I believe that stand is indeed all black.


----------



## Polarity

what does green-sum means when he/she says "As p67 chipset mainboard may show booting skipping error and also the screen may not work out properly"


----------



## Citra

This has probably been asked before, but what is the difference between the gold and the standard version.


----------



## NiklasA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *08silverado*
> 
> I ended up having money to buy another CrossOver much sooner than I thought. I emailed AccessoriesWhole to see if they would do me an added service, because I was a returning customer. The first monitor had back light bleed and a stuck pixel, so I requested that they check it for bleeding. They instantly replied and said they would check it for me for free, because I was a returning customer. They sent it out the next day, and it was here in 1 day. Perfect panel... for free. No bleed, no dead/stuck pixels, color looks spot on. I am very happy with their service and loyalty to their customers. The only downside to the new monitor is that it shows just how blue the other one is. The difference is night and day, but this will all be fixed soon, when I buy a colorimeter. Again, I highly recommend them; their service is amazing, and they are extremely friendly. You won't regret purchasing from them.
> P.S. Please don't expect AccessoriesWhole to extend the same services to you that they did for me for free, as I was a returning customer and an exception to their normal policy. Please remember that they are in the business of making money, and that courtesies such as these may not always be an option. If you need pixel perfect, then I would suggest paying the extra for it. I wrote this simply to show how user friendly and polite they are. Again, I highly suggest them.


Been looking at this monitor for a while now, but $500 + the possibility of having to pay maybe 25% in customs/VAT makes it less interesting even if you get a prefect pixel AND he checks for BLB since the step up to a HP ZR2740w that comes with a kick ass warranty and service from the seller is way too small. So for that price checking for BLB would be more of a demand even I'm not a returning customer. Since you basically have zero warranty it's not too much to ask I think.

Would you be willing to pay the same for your blueish monitor that you did for the new one, I don't think so?


----------



## overrobin

I've purchased my new monitor from Accessorieswhole.
Immediately when the Accessorieswhole listed perfect pixel monitor, but I had communication beforehand,
I've got discounted price; direct payment.

I purchased 2720mdp perfect pixel monitor on June 4th and guess what? 1 day delivery~
What a freaking service they do! I bet it was the fastest delivery ever.

Right now, I'm with ma perfectly BEAUTIFUL monitor and as Accessorieswhole mentioned,
it was quite nice to see "Perfect pixel monitor" label on the box, even it was written in Korean,
because of this label, I feel more satisfied.









Even more, I have to say, their CS service is fantastic.
I had no hassle to ask any questions and reply. Compare to others, it's just AWESOME!!!!

Don't they warranty return and replacement for free?
What do you expect more?
Comparing with HP ZR2740w, which the lowest price is for what. $950?
I don't know.. it seems like David and Goliath? lol

Kind enoughly, Accessorieswhole downsized its product value as $200 and declared it as "sample".
personally, I think they deserve more than what they provide.


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiklasA*
> 
> Would you be willing to pay the same for your blueish monitor that you did for the new one, I don't think so?


Yes, I actually would. It's just the luck of the draw. Sure, you may wish for a perfect monitor, but it's just luck if you get one. If luck isn't enough for you then that's why they charge a premium for "pixel perfect". As far as asking them to check for back light bleed, I don't think that would be a huge problem if you asked. Also, I don't think they ever check the colors on the monitor, so that is purely all luck.


----------



## sausage boy

Do we have any sig's yet for this club?


----------



## NiklasA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overrobin*
> 
> I've purchased my new monitor from Accessorieswhole.
> Immediately when the Accessorieswhole listed perfect pixel monitor, but I had communication beforehand,
> I've got discounted price; direct payment.
> I purchased 2720mdp perfect pixel monitor on June 4th and guess what? 1 day delivery~
> What a freaking service they do! I bet it was the fastest delivery ever.
> Right now, I'm with ma perfectly BEAUTIFUL monitor and as Accessorieswhole mentioned,
> it was quite nice to see "Perfect pixel monitor" label on the box, even it was written in Korean,
> because of this label, I feel more satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even more, I have to say, their CS service is fantastic.
> I had no hassle to ask any questions and reply. Compare to others, it's just AWESOME!!!!
> Don't they warranty return and replacement for free?
> What do you expect more?
> Comparing with HP ZR2740w, which the lowest price is for what. $950?
> I don't know.. it seems like David and Goliath? lol
> Kind enoughly, Accessorieswhole downsized its product value as $200 and declared it as "sample".
> personally, I think they deserve more than what they provide.


The HP ZR2740w cost $700 here in Sweden.


----------



## RyanBrantley

Just received my LED-P from green-sum. Perfect monitor, no dead pixels. I am absolutely blown away by the quality and color of this monitor and regret not buying a second! I will never be able to go back to 1080p after using this! Pics coming soon as my HTC One X doesn't capture it good enough.


----------



## braveblade

2720mdp pivot non-perfect pixel from BCC - $499.99 plus taking offers.
2720mdp pivot perfect pixel from accessorieswhole - $699.99
Good job accessorieswhole. way to be an ass...


----------



## Althulas

I paid through offer $486 plus $20 shipping (£339.53) for 2720MDP Gold LED from bigclothcraft last Sunday, item marked as shipped but DHL tracking number not recognised. Price is bumped up according to country but will be worth it if comes without any faults.


----------



## 1-anh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> what does green-sum means when he/she says "As p67 chipset mainboard may show booting skipping error and also the screen may not work out properly"


+1 I am curious about this as well, anybody with a p67 chipset and this monitor can comment on this


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> 2720mdp pivot non-perfect pixel from BCC - $499.99 plus taking offers.
> 2720mdp pivot perfect pixel from accessorieswhole - $699.99
> Good job accessorieswhole. way to be an ass...


I think the difference is that AccessoriesWhole claims to be an official distributor of CrossOvers and offers A+ panels in that listing (A for regular listings and A+ for perfect pixel), whereas BigClothCraft does not claim to sell only A and higher models (i.e. you could get an A-). Thus AW can charge higher for people to feel more secure about their purchase.


----------



## Wiz33

At $699 I would just get a HP which is guarantee A+ with 3 years of U.S. warranty.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quick question: what does "A1" grade correspond to? Is that A+ or A or what?..
---
It seems that some people report panels stamped with "A+" that have no pixel imperfections and no backlight bleed problems, so I don't see why A+ or very close aren't possible, unless you have a verified source for that information.


----------



## illli

ugh. If the perfectpixel one could o/c I'd get one in a heartbeat. I like the styling of the crossover compared to all the rest, but also want the overclocking too


----------



## Futzy

Mine got shipped out today- expected delivery 6/12 according to FedEx tracking. I'm fine with that, but I thought Accessorieswhole did 2-3 day shipping?


----------



## Polarity

when did u order it Futzy?


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> when did u order it Futzy?


Tuesday.


----------



## Polarity

did u get the perfect pixel? Futzy


----------



## Futzy

I didn't see it as worth the money consider the pixel density and AW's track record. I got the 27Q for $377.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> I didn't see it as worth the money consider the pixel density and AW's track record. I got the 27Q for $377.


Please let us know how your monitor turns out! I'm interested in going exactly the same route, so feedback on that listing is appreciated.


----------



## Kitarist

Really like all the reviews about these korean monitors but i kinda dont like the 1440p thing not sure if i would be able to get used to. Also i would then need a really powerful card to run new games smoothly.


----------



## Fatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Really like all the reviews about these korean monitors but i kinda dont like the 1440p thing not sure if i would be able to get used to. Also i would then need a really powerful card to run new games smoothly.


Well depending on the games you plan to run, you may not need to upgrade. My backup rig with a HD5770 runs CS:GO great at 1440p, so if you play source games your likely fine on your current GPU. If your playing games like BF3, my single 580 ran it swimmingly with the AA turned down. So if you were to grab a 660ti or a HD7870 in the future you should be plenty covered. However if your a graphics whore like me, be prepared for SLI 670/680s!


----------



## overrobin

Hey Futzy,

what do you mean " I didn't see it as worth the money consider the pixel density and AW's track record. I got the 27Q for $377?"
You haven't got the monitor yet.
Isn't it too early to say its worthy?
Fedex estimated delivery isn't that accurate. they estimated mine will arrive on June 6th, but I received it on June 5th.
And it really depends on where you leave.
If you live like whereas I live, CA, then you may get in a day.
But, if you live like somewhere else in countryside, you better expect more days.
Where do you live? Live in USA?


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overrobin*
> 
> Hey Futzy,
> what do you mean " I didn't see it as worth the money consider the pixel density and AW's track record. I got the 27Q for $377?"
> You haven't got the monitor yet.
> Isn't it too early to say its worthy?
> Fedex estimated delivery isn't that accurate. they estimated mine will arrive on June 6th, but I received it on June 5th.
> And it really depends on where you leave.
> If you live like whereas I live, CA, then you may get in a day.
> But, if you live like somewhere else in countryside, you better expect more days.
> Where do you live? Live in USA?


All you have to do is look through this thread and the others and you'd see why I say that. I've followed this since the first thread was posted here about them. AW ships them out himself so he checks them, he doesn't ship through the manufacturer. I'm fine with 1-2 dead pixels and a stuck pixel can be fixed, as can yellow banding to some degree. For the price of a perfect pixel I would just by a domestic brand- its not worth it.

I'll review it as I can, I don't have access to a colorimeter.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> All you have to do is look through this thread and the others and you'd see why I say that. I've followed this since the first thread was posted here about them. AW ships them out himself so he checks them, he doesn't ship through the manufacturer. I'm fine with 1-2 dead pixels and a stuck pixel can be fixed, as can yellow banding to some degree. For the price of a perfect pixel I would just by a domestic brand- its not worth it.
> I'll review it as I can, I don't have access to a colorimeter.


I've compiled a list of calibration profiles for these Korean monitors from various threads (like Catleaps, etc.) Have a look here if you want to play with some color profiles - that's what I've done to find one that looks good:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/3850#post_17335744
There are probably more calibration profiles linked that I've missed, so if anyone has another profile bookmarked, let me know, and I'll add it to the list.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Don't use 996gt2's profile, the eye display 2 is not meant to be used with LED backlit displays and it's always out by 500k vs an accurate meter. Also, if the i1d2 is old it will be even more inaccurate.


----------



## Polarity

ughhhhhhhhhh the same price for a crossover 27Q LED-P 380 from BCC is the same amount for a normal 27Q LED crossover from AW X_X ....

their both probably have the same risk of pixel too...X_X


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> ughhhhhhhhhh the same price for a crossover 27Q LED-P 380 from BCC is the same amount for a normal 27Q LED crossover from AW X_X ....
> their both probably have the same risk of pixel too...X_X


AW is way more smarter than bcc in terms of doing business. He/she knows how to trick people to spend more money on the same stuff. Good job!


----------



## -modulus-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> AW is way more smarter than bcc in terms of doing business. He/she knows how to trick people to spend more money on the same stuff. Good job!


meh . . . everyone who's purchased from AW seems to have good things to say about them. not sure what your continued beef is.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-modulus-*
> 
> meh . . . everyone who's purchased from AW seems to have good things to say about them. not sure what your continued beef is.


I'm commenting on the price only. and I don't like the way he/she tricked the others to believe his/her monitors use A+ panel hence better than other sellers. Lies.


----------



## 08silverado

Although I am not sure about the A1 A+ panel thing that AW says, I can say that the premium they charge is well worth it. Their customer service is just awesome. They will do what it takes to make the situation right. I am not sure about others, but you also get the included adapter with AW. Trust me, you won't regret paying the small premium. Don't forget that their pixel policy is better than all of the other sellers.


----------



## kwando

I've recently received my crossover from bigcloth and as far as I can tell it is pixel perfect.

Very happy with the monitor. Worked right out of the box and the picture quality is breathtaking.

My question is, if it looks good to me, and I can see no visible blue hue for instance, should I still download a colour profile? Are colour profiles just based on individual tastes or do they actually optimize the monitors in any way?

I guess I got lucky with my monitor, but I'd recommend it to anyone wanting to upgrade. The picture quality looks exactly the same as my friend's $1000 27" imac screen.


----------



## GK-PePe

hi guys. which monitor (27Q LED, 27M LED or 2720MDP GOLD LED) is now really the best? if i have understood correctly, the first two models on the back completely out of metal, the gold version or the majority of plastic? and their respective models would you buy with or without glass front? thx a lot


----------



## Althulas

Which model did you order Kwando? Mines still enroute from BC, there was a national holiday on the 6th adding to delay of order process.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quick question, does the LED 27Q version come with the new updated logo ("8ver" - like appearance) or the old? Or it matters which batch I get?


----------



## 161029

I'm tempted to get one of these, but then I'm also tempted to wait for 4K...with that perfect pixel deal, it's very tempting.


----------



## thesmoth

How come no one is using red-cap anymore?

I got one from him for $360 including shipping, and it seems to have no dead pixels (although it does always seem to look blueish).

Overall i'm not really impressed with the quality of the screen, and it seems like the apple cinema displays i've used have been way better.

I'm going to try a new calibration file when I get home and see if that helps. I have no calibrator myself.


----------



## Polarity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwando*
> 
> I've recently received my crossover from bigcloth and as far as I can tell it is pixel perfect.
> Very happy with the monitor. Worked right out of the box and the picture quality is breathtaking.
> My question is, if it looks good to me, and I can see no visible blue hue for instance, should I still download a colour profile? Are colour profiles just based on individual tastes or do they actually optimize the monitors in any way?
> I guess I got lucky with my monitor, but I'd recommend it to anyone wanting to upgrade. The picture quality looks exactly the same as my friend's $1000 27" imac screen.


if its not broken why fix it....


----------



## trulsrohk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesmoth*
> 
> How come no one is using red-cap anymore?
> I got one from him for $360 including shipping, and it seems to have no dead pixels (although it does always seem to look blueish).
> Overall i'm not really impressed with the quality of the screen, and it seems like the apple cinema displays i've used have been way better.
> I'm going to try a new calibration file when I get home and see if that helps. I have no calibrator myself.


They are better, only thing remarkable about theses monitors is the pixel to price ratio

Cinema displays or ultra sharp monitors etc that are made for design work will have much better colors as they are all likely over 90% color gamut whereas these are only like 70


----------



## -modulus-

Ya, i think sometimes people get carried away and expect an ACD coming in the mail for $350. Not that I don't think the panels are good, but something's obviously got to give to come down to that price.


----------



## Dettie

trulsrohk is very much incorrect. -- The Crossover 27Q Led-P has the IDENTICAL panel as the Apple 27" Cinema & Thunderbolt display, and I mean IDENTICAL.

Apple 27" Cinema & Thunderbolt display:
** S-IPS panel manufactured by LG*
* Glossy finish
* 2560 x 1440 resolution
* 375cd/m2
* 1000:1 contrast
* 12 ms response time
* 16.7 million colors
* 178˚/178˚ viewing angle

Crossover 27Q Led-P:
** S-IPS panel manufactured by LG*
* Glossy finish
* 2560 x 1440 resolution
* 380cd/m2
* 1000:1 contrast
* 6 ms response time
* 16.7 million colors
* 178˚/178˚ viewing angle

The only thing they don't have in common is the external finish / housing and Apple displays come with integrated USB, Thunderbolt, Mag-safe connection, and display-port connection.The actual screen is identical.

Furthermore, I'm a big Apple fanatic and I own a Macbook Pro and just sold my Cinema display -- and I can tell you the Crossover 27Q Led-P is awesome! However some buyers may receive one with some imperfections, so you always run a slight risk. Luckily the ones I received have perfect pixels and no imperfections. #winning


----------



## ElevenEleven

Calibration is something that can fix colors that look off out of the box. Apple displays use the same LG panels. Moreover, some of these Korean monitors are using panels good enough to be rated A and A+, so they would be the same as what Apple uses. I do not understand people commenting about these panels being inferior for their price and quality - they are a huge step up from regular TN panels, and their high resolution makes their price point even more incredible. I would imagine those so-called professional graphic design users would need to calibrate their displays to perfection and use calorimeters for any monitor, if color accuracy is so important. So far, I'm continuously awed by the beauty of my Achieva display, it's color depth, and contrast.

Another thing is, most of those using computer monitors don't care how high color gamut they have for gaming and Internet browsing, but most will admit just how much of an improvement these 1440p IPS panels are over other available monitors at that price point. And if multiple raving reviews from those who already own apple screens is not a good indication that these monitors are just fine, then perhaps there's no point arguing the merits or shortcomings of these monitors without any personal experience. Who wants to pay extra $500 for slightly better color accuracy that most won't notice? I would argue almost no one.


----------



## thesmoth

Does anyone have a calibration profile from a crossover 27Q that has a bad blue-tint problem? No matter what profile I load, it always look bad and too blue.

Maybe my macbook pro just has a bad calibration that is too yellow/orange and i've gotten used to that?


----------



## thesmoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesmoth*
> 
> Does anyone have a calibration profile from a crossover 27Q that has a bad blue-tint problem? No matter what profile I load, it always look bad and too blue.
> Maybe my macbook pro just has a bad calibration that is too yellow/orange and i've gotten used to that?


Nope, I was just paying a video split between my macbook pro and the crossover 27Q and on the macbook pro a black background looks black, on the crossover 27Q is is dark blue.

***, does everyone else have this terrible blue problem?


----------



## LC155

Hi,

After reading through the majority of this thread, and especially with recently developments, it seems like AW is the best seller to pick from. Indeed, for the small price premium (I'm in the UK, so not that much more considering currency conversion) you'll get a guarantee of 0 stuck/dead pixels, and if you so happen to have them, they will apparently pay for return shipping. What's not to love? Perfect monitor first time around, or run the risk of having to ship one back and lose out in the end? Granted, I am very OCD about defective pixels, so paying a bit extra for peace of mind sounds worth it to me. I did ask her if she checks for tinting and backlight bleed, and she confirmed this. I did notice she was claiming to sell A+ panels, but with only one person buying them thus far, how does the guy who had a problem with this know she's lying? AW claims to be an official dealer of the brand, so they could have got A+ stock from crossover directly (which would justify the price hike). Seeing as A+ panels calibrate closer to 6500k than A- panels (the only benefit of them IMO. Too many big name brands have problems too with their supposedly perfect panels) it looks a good deal for those who are into their colour.

Also, read about some people preferring the picture of the ACD? Sure that isn't a placebo effect because of the brand or price? They're the exact same panel, and as far as I'm aware, the ACD doesn't have an increased gamut over the 27Q? Perhaps they couldn't calibrate it, and prefer the default calibration on the ACD?

I was reading about an updated version of the crossover earlier, can someone clarify that for me? Is it only the version with the extra inputs that needed updating? Is the contrast on the 27Q fine? (Planning on getting the 27Q). I heard there were some blue tint problems on the Q too, and I presume they've not been fixed? I know you can fix that with a colorimeter, but I read about some users having issues with some programs not using the colour profile that windows uses. Are those isolated incidents? I did read something about Steam not using them, but you can force it to use the colour profile.

Seems the only other issue I read about was the VESA mounting screws hitting the board - does that still happen if you use the screws that come with it? (For example, I buy an MX and use the screws that came with the crossover. No problem then?)

Finally, I read about LG releasing upgraded revision 4 panels this year. Any real benefit to them? I doubt the Korean manufacturers are using them yet, though.

I think that's everything, apologies for such a long post. I plan to order a 27Q this week. (I grabbed a Hazro months ago when they first jumped on the ship for these types of panels. Using the same enclosure as the Shimian - I was extremely disappointed with the quality and sent it back. That's why I'm going for CrossOver this time)


----------



## ElevenEleven

I'd just like to comment on the panel grading - it is indeed confusing. Some say all of these monitors use A- panels, although I'd like to see where they get this information to state it so surely. Some sellers actually put it in their listings that their panels are A-. It could be that they are the only honest ones or that they in particular have such panels.

Some, like ta_planet, check their monitors before sending, and people have gotten A and A+ stamps on their panels. Is it placed there by the seller or manufacturer?

Finally, BCC said all the Crossover panels are "the same" from the factory, so he just checks them for defects before shipping and sends back those that are not up to par. From that and people's reports of defective monitors, I conclude that quality control is a hit or miss on these panels, and it's better to go with a seller who does the most thorough testing and has a good return policy and reputation. AW only offers perfect A+ Crossovers for $500, so it's definitely not a small premium. Their regular 27q listing does not specify panel grade. It's likely that they just pull their best monitor into a separate batch and sell them for more.


----------



## trulsrohk

Well I retract part of my statement, didn't realize was same panel as acd. Ultra sharps will definitely have better color though since those are 99% adobe color gamut

If they rly are the same as acd then, I will have to get one then, cuz that's plenty good enough for me.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trulsrohk*
> 
> Well I retract part of my statement, didn't realize was same panel as acd. Ultra sharps will definitely have better color though since those are 99% adobe color gamut
> If they rly are the same as acd then, I will have to get one then, cuz that's plenty good enough for me.


All of these displays (besides the Davi) are Q1 8bit sRGB panels. 10bit panels (adobeRGB) like the Q2 in the u2711 really only serve a practical purpose in print design work- if you use a 10bit panel in adobeRGB mode you will be seeing incorrectly translated colors from the sRGB color gamut, so pretty much everything from browsers to games will look supersaturated and incorrect without being managed. The u2711 and the like can switch between sRGB and adobeRGB via their OSD, which is not an option on these monitors.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I'd just like to comment on the panel grading - it is indeed confusing. Some say all of these monitors use A- panels, although I'd like to see where they get this information to state it so surely. Some sellers actually put it in their listings that their panels are A-. It could be that they are the only honest ones or that they in particular have such panels.
> Some, like ta_planet, check their monitors before sending, and people have gotten A and A+ stamps on their panels. Is it placed there by the seller or manufacturer?
> Finally, BCC said all the Crossover panels are "the same" from the factory, so he just checks them for defects before shipping and sends back those that are not up to par. From that and people's reports of defective monitors, I conclude that quality control is a hit or miss on these panels, and it's better to go with a seller who does the most thorough testing and has a good return policy and reputation. AW only offers perfect A+ Crossovers for $500, so it's definitely not a small premium. Their regular 27q listing does not specify panel grade. It's likely that they just pull their best monitor into a separate batch and sell them for more.


You have a point there, but I believe AW is the only seller who guarantees absolutely no defects of any kind - and will pay shipping back if any are found (which is the important part). That probably explains the price hike, and to me, justifies it. I'm not much of a gambler, and the currency conversion from $ to £ is spoiling me.


----------



## kwando

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Which model did you order Kwando? Mines still enroute from BC, there was a national holiday on the 6th adding to delay of order process.


I got the 27Q standard model. Didn't need the extra stand movement.

Love this screen more and more every time I look at it.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trulsrohk*
> 
> Well I retract part of my statement, didn't realize was same panel as acd. Ultra sharps will definitely have better color though since those are 99% adobe color gamut
> If they rly are the same as acd then, I will have to get one then, cuz that's plenty good enough for me.


It may be the same LG Display Panel, but they all have different "Grade Panels", their own different control boards, different firmware, different OSD (if any) and different bios.


----------



## Kuad

re:
what does green-sum means when he/she says "As p67 chipset mainboard may show booting skipping error and also the screen may not work out properly" 

I was using 3 of these monitors using a p67 mobo with no problems(just got my z77







), - I think he means that if you use the igpu and the onboard dvi out, it may not immediately turn on( while bios screen is showing), and may not work properly at all.
As long as you are using a discrete gpu with dual link dvi ports you should be fine.


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwando*
> 
> I got the 27Q standard model. Didn't need the extra stand movement.
> Love this screen more and more every time I look at it.


Yo kwando-

I concur - I've had my 27Q for almost a month - and it seems to get better every day I use it. I got mine from Accessorieswhole and it is perfect in all respects-eh.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Just broke down and got a Perfect Pixel 27Q from AccessoriesWhole... Expensive, but it's a gift to my boyfriend, and I wanted it to be perfect (as my cheap Achieva ShiMian with tempered glass does have faults, such as dust specs behind the glass and recently discovered stuck pixels, though they really are hard to find).


----------



## LC155

In response to the whole A+ panel thing with AW, I asked them for confirmation:
Quote:


> Thank you for your interest.
> though, we clearly mentioned and differenciated from A- panel and A+ panel on description.
> 
> So, please read product description carefully.
> For your reference:
> Perfect pixel Monitor Panel specification::
> Sole 100% perfect pixel panel achieved and produced from 50 out of 1500 (about 3% of its production) panels.
> These sole 100% perfect pixel monitors are ONLY available on AccessoriesWhole; CrossOver exclusive authorized dealer.
> Not even the smallest single defective pixel is allowed on AccessoriesWhole.


Make of it what you will.

I ordered one today, we'll see how this goes.


----------



## chon

I was able to read this whole thread yesterday. Def alot of great help/info! I was stuck deciding between this monitor or the 120hz Catleap. Being that I do not play any FPS games (mainly Diablo 3, Max Payne, Skyrim), I do not think I would see any benefit. Plus the Crossover build quality is alot better, and there is no option for a perfect pixel model in the 120hz Catleap. I am a perfectionist unfortunately, and any kind of flaw in the screen would upset me









I also purchased one of the perfect pixel non pivot models from AW. I hope to see 2-3 day shipping to Texas as most others have


----------



## thesmoth

Just a warning guys, the blue tint issue is a huge problem. My monitor has it, and it looks quite bad.

I would avoid these crossovers and get another brand that is not known for blue tint. Keep in mind this sucker is huge and so shipping it back to Korea is not an option.


----------



## chon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesmoth*
> 
> Just a warning guys, the blue tint issue is a huge problem. My monitor has it, and it looks quite bad.
> I would avoid these crossovers and get another brand that is not known for blue tint. Keep in mind this sucker is huge and so shipping it back to Korea is not an option.


I believe the monitors are running at 6500k out of the box. There is a calibration profile floating around this thread that fixes it


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesmoth*
> 
> Just a warning guys, the blue tint issue is a huge problem. My monitor has it, and it looks quite bad.
> I would avoid these crossovers and get another brand that is not known for blue tint. Keep in mind this sucker is huge and so shipping it back to Korea is not an option.


As the person above me said, do try pre-calibrated profiles that people posted here for others to use!

Here are a few I've compiled from various posts:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/3850#post_17335744

And these might be helpful as well:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm


----------



## Wiz33

I got a Catleap Q270 single DVI a few weeks back and like it so much that I want one for home but I want DP and HDMI so I settled on the 2720MDP. I got the pivot more for the height adjustable stand so I made BCC an offer on Sat figuring that I probably won't hear back till sometime Sun (Mon in Korea) but I head back in a few hours. Then yesterday I got an email wanting to confirm my address and a phone number for the freight carrier (DHL) and this morning I got a shipped status from eBay. DHL don't show the tracking number yet but hopefully will soon. All in all, a good experience so far (keeping fingers crossed).


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thesmoth*
> 
> Just a warning guys, the blue tint issue is a huge problem. My monitor has it, and it looks quite bad.
> I would avoid these crossovers and get another brand that is not known for blue tint. Keep in mind this sucker is huge and so shipping it back to Korea is not an option.


If you care so much about the colour accuracy, you should be investing in a colorimeter anyway, rendering the issue null. A little issue like that is worth it when you consider the build quality compared to the others. I expect my crossover to last a fair bit longer.


----------



## Futzy

This thing is beautiful. No defects. No dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleed, and no color tint.





I used a standard power cord, and the DVI cable that came with it. He also packed in two microfiber cloths (the red/green packets on my desk), which is great.


----------



## LC155

Looking good!

When did you order, and I'm curious as to what the note says? Just the standard checked for faults thing?


----------



## Futzy

I ordered ordered Tuesday but the holiday meant it got shipped Wednesday, it arrived here Friday and got held in my local fedex facility over the weekend. So 3 day shipping, not counting Fedex not delivering on weekends.

It's just the normal customer service note.


----------



## thesmoth

I loaded the calibration profile, doesn't fix it at all, still super blue, just slightly improved.


----------



## thesmoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> If you care so much about the colour accuracy, you should be investing in a colorimeter anyway, rendering the issue null. A little issue like that is worth it when you consider the build quality compared to the others. I expect my crossover to last a fair bit longer.


It's not not that I care about colour accuracy, it's that with a blank screen, it looks dark navy blue and not black. It is a severe blue-tint problem that is NOT fixed by any of the profiles provided.


----------



## LC155

Now that does sound a little worse, since you make it like the actual screen is blue, and is something I'd escalate with AW if it happens on mine. Time will tell.


----------



## Futzy

I was frustrated with not being able to find any exact measurements before I bought this, so here's some now (cm). Body is 3cm thick, with a protrusion at the center 100m vesa mount making it 5.5cm.


----------



## Polarity

what are u frustrated about omfggggggg that monitor looks so sexy thats the non-pivot verison?

and where is ur start sign O_O or logo or whatever the windows logo bottom left its gone?


----------



## MenacingTuba

For CrossOver 2720MDP owners, here are my calibrated settings:

Brightness: 30
Contrast: 75
Red: 98
Green: 90
Blue: 95

I will send my ICC profile to TFT Central so it should be up in a few days. I also have 3 new videos of the 2720MDP next to the Samsung S27A850D on my channel. Here is one:




Xbox 360 Settings:

System>Console Settings>Display>

HDTV Settings: 1080p
Reference Levels: Expanded
HDMI Colour Space: RGB


----------



## chon

AW called me as a courtesy to let me know the technicians were about to test my monitor for perfect pixels. I requested that they also check for backlight bleed and she said she would let them know and update me before it ships.


----------



## LC155

You went with the more expensive one for the perfect pixels? I think my one must have already been pre-tested or something, as I ordered it yesterday and it got shipped today. I did leave an ebay message when buying though to check for backlight bleed and tinting, so maybe that's why I didn't get a notification like that.


----------



## WhompDbomp

Looks like the pivot stand.


----------



## Polarity

nah its the regular stand i asked him a while back rofl


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> what are u frustrated about omfggggggg that monitor looks so sexy thats the non-pivot verison?
> and where is ur start sign O_O or logo or whatever the windows logo bottom left its gone?


Standard version as I have no need for pivot. Windows 8.


----------



## WhompDbomp

Pivot and regular stand look pretty similar..after reading about tilting and other things about stands on other models, these seem pretty stout. .I think I paid like $12 more for the pivot....which I don't need...just rushed to hit the "buy" button. By the way, I got a pair of scarves as my "gift".


----------



## 1rkrage

to sell my samsung 27 inch crap TN or not to sell. that is the question.

I think I can still get 180+ on this thing. Is the extra 200 worth an IPS?


----------



## ElevenEleven

A fair edit on my initial "rough around the edges" impression, now that I've had more time to evaluate the monitor:

My perfect pixel CrossOver 27Q is here. Colors seem good right out of the box - no need for calibrating. Can't see any dead or stuck pixels - tested. The power brick I got is rated for 190V+, but has a sticker on it that says "AC 110V is acceptable." The brick runs a tad warmer than the Frontek one that came with my Achieva ShiMian. Also a very high pitched sound coming from the area where the power button is located (my Achieva has it too, though a tiny bit quieter). Bottom of the screen has prominent yellow tinting, compared to my Achieva that barely has it, so I'm a little doubtful that my new CrossOver is indeed A + rat ( _that was an unfair statement, as faults can happen and this is not necessarily anything to do with panel grade_).

Overall, I have to say I prefer the look of my Achieva ShiMian with tempered glass over the CrossOver, but it's for my boyfriend, and he seems happy enough. Unsure if I should bring up my concerns about the tinting, questions about the power brick, and the sound to the seller, as it might sound like nitpicking, but I'd call them issues, as I did pay $470 for it vs. sub $400 that most Crossovers are going for. Even though the monitor is indeed perfect pixel and I just got unlucky with other uncommon problems.


----------



## 1rkrage

... lol i'm an idiot and posted on the wrong thread


----------



## Polarity

umm wrong thread dude


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> My perfect pixel CrossOver 27Q is here. Colors seem good right out of the box - no need for calibrating. Can't see any dead or stuck pixels, but will do a thorough search when I'm less tired. The power brick I got is rated for 190V+, but has a sticker on it that says "AC 110V is acceptable." The brick does get much warmer than the Frontek one that came with my Achieva ShiMian, so not too happy about that. Also a very high pitched sound coming from the area where the power button is located (my Achieva has it too, though a tiny bit quieter). Bottom of the screen seems to have _very_ light yellow tinting, just as my Achieva does, so I'm a little doubtful that my new CrossOver is indeed A+ rated, but maybe it's just due to LED backlight distribution.
> Overall, I have to say I prefer the look of my Achieva ShiMian with tempered glass over the CrossOver, but it's for my boyfriend, and he seems happy enough. Unsure if I should bring up my concerns about the tinting, the hot power brick, and the sound to the seller, as it might sound like nitpicking, but I'd call them issues, as I did pay $470 for it vs. sub $400 that most Crossovers are going for.


I'd say do it. The power brick is a minor issue imo to me, but the tinting, when the claim of an A+ panel (although tons of Dells and others with A+ panels have those problems too). Additionally, for me, I have very sensitive hearing to high pitched sounds (I hate CRTs for this reason) so that'd be a major issue to me.

We'll see when mine gets here.


----------



## chon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I'd say do it. The power brick is a minor issue imo to me, but the tinting, when the claim of an A+ panel (although tons of Dells and others with A+ panels have those problems too). Additionally, for me, I have very sensitive hearing to high pitched sounds (I hate CRTs for this reason) so that'd be a major issue to me.
> We'll see when mine gets here.


+2 - I would def report it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thanks, I have sent an e-mail. I'm just afraid it'll sound whiny, but I did spend a lot of money on it and now wonder if it was worth the premium to get something I'd expect from a monitor that costs $100 less. The yellow tint is definitely noticeable. In comparison, my Achieva ShiMian did not have any pixel or grade guarantees and has significantly less yellow - not that noticeable - same with the sound.


----------



## LC155

Yep. With shipping back paid for by them, you've got nothing to lose.

Interestingly, for the UKers, Digimate have begun selling rebranded Crossovers (the one with the leather back) on ebay for about £320.


----------



## ElevenEleven

_Update_: here's that excellent customer service everyone's been talking about! I actually got a real phone call from AW concerning my issues and we had a nice talk - took me by surprise. I was asked to make photos or a video of my issues, and I'll try my best, as that yellow tint's going to be hard to photograph, I imagine (same for the capacitor (?) high pitched sound by the power button). Apparently the power brick that comes with their CrossOvers is a better kind than stock. Their communication has been A+









Edited to clarify : power brick is just fine.


----------



## LC155

Very nice! How easy were they to understand?

I hate talking on phones!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Very easy actually - good English







I'm very impressed with their concern, at least - they do take their business seriously.


----------



## 1rkrage

how much do you guys pay in customs fees?


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> how much do you guys pay in customs fees?


US has none, people in the UK were having to pay around 30 iirc


----------



## chon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Very easy actually - good English
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very impressed with their concern, at least - they do take their business seriously.


If it was a female, then yes AW speaks very good english. What sucks is that you got yours fast!! I am still waiting on mine







I ordered Sunday and it just hit Anchorage today.


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> _Update_: here's that excellent customer service everyone's been talking about! I actually got a real phone call from AW concerning my issues and we had a nice talk - took me by surprise. I was asked to make photos or a video of my issues, and I'll try my best, as that yellow tint's going to be hard to photograph, I imagine (same for the capacitor (?) high pitched sound by the power button). Apparently the power brick that comes with their CrossOvers is a better kind than stock. Still runs much hotter than my Nanjing Frontek, which is barely warm. Their communication has been A+


This is exactly why AW is worth the extra money. Customer service like that is unheard of nowadays. I mean to actually get a call from someone regarding the issue... that's really caring about your customers. Sorry about the problems you have. My first monitor had a bit of yellow tinting at the bottom too (stopped noticing it completely a week in). So does my friend's $1000 mac screen. haha I'm pretty sure it has to do with the edge-lit back lighting. Pretty lucky boyfriend for you to go to such extents to get it perfect. : ) Good luck!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thanks







I just feel responsible for things I get for others, so I went for an expensive version to be safe, although didn't win the RNG lottery after all.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Another question for current CrossOver owners. Not sure if I should change something or try a calibration, but it seems like there's flicker on my new CrossOver screen, like rapid brightness fluctuation when looking at plain white background. I don't see it on my Achieva ShiMian, which looks smooth and has no detectable flicker. Both the CrossOver and the Achieva operate at 59Hz native frequency, which I cannot change to 60 (Windows agrees to change it, but then it just resets back to 59 right away). Could it be the DVI cable that came with the CrossOver? I'll look for another cable to test.

Edit: GAH, just tested with another DVI cable, that worked fine with my Achieva, and no, it's not the cable's fault... there's rapid backlight fluctuation, brighter and darker, pretty random and quick. Very irritating and noticeable on light and dark backgrounds. I think maybe I'll just have to ask for a replacement after all =/


----------



## LC155

Don't bother using the DVI cables that come with the things, make sure to grab another.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I've tried it with another - one that came with my ShiMian and worked perfectly with it. I actually ordered a replacement cable from Monoprice for the ShiMian to be on the safe side, and it did not improve anything when it arrived, so I know the original cable is good. I tried it with the CrossOver, and the flickering did not diminish at all. My only other option is the power supply brick, but I don't know if it would cause such fluctuation.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I've tried it with another - one that came with my ShiMian and worked perfectly with it. I actually ordered a replacement cable from Monoprice for the ShiMian to be on the safe side, and it did not improve anything when it arrived, so I know the original cable is good. I tried it with the CrossOver, and the flickering did not diminish at all. My only other option is the power supply brick, but I don't know if it would cause such fluctuation.


Can you open up the monitor? Might be a loose cable internally. Heard it can happen with all the jostling around the box gets in transit.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I'm not going to mess with it while it's still freshly received and void any warranty. It's a nearly $500 monitor after all.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I'm not going to mess with it while it's still freshly received and void any warranty. It's a nearly $500 monitor after all.


Well, I haven't heard of anything put in there for them to check if you've opened it or not. If you made a clean job of it, you could get away with it. I can see your concern, though.


----------



## AMD SLI guru

just got my Crossover 27q today after ordering it on Saturday. Kinda crazy how fast it got here.

Anyways, No dead pixels and looks awesome!


----------



## stellar

Just wanted to chime in and say mines been going strong since March (came with 1 dead pixel).
This is probably the best purchase I have ever made (paid $270 in Korea for a LED-P)


----------



## AMD SLI guru

i guess the question i have is: how the heck do you turn down the brightness? It is crazy bright and i figure i have to use software to turn it down.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Don't bother using the DVI cables that come with the things, make sure to grab another.


I'm using both of the included dual link dvi cables with mine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD SLI guru*
> 
> i guess the question i have is: how the heck do you turn down the brightness? It is crazy bright and i figure i have to use software to turn it down.


There are 3 buttons of the back, 2 change the brightness up/down and the other is the power button


----------



## AMD SLI guru

Thank you very much! I was sitting there going "How the heck do I do this!?"


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I'm using both of the included dual link dvi cables with mine.
> There are 3 buttons of the back, 2 change the brightness up/down and the other is the power button


You can, but more often than not, when people complain of problems it's the included cable that's the culprit.


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Don't bother using the DVI cables that come with the things, make sure to grab another.


Why would you say that? All that BS about "high quality" cables is usually untrue. I don't see any reason why the included cables wouldn't suffice...


----------



## AMD SLI guru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *08silverado*
> 
> Why would you say that? All that BS about "high quality" cables is usually untrue. I don't see any reason why the included cables wouldn't suffice...


completely agree.


----------



## LC155

I'm not advocating other 'high quality' cables guys. Digital is digital. It's just for some reason the included cables generally have a kink or something about them (whether it be a damaged wire or pin or whatever) that can cause these issues.

It's just what I've seen based on empirical evidence.


----------



## AMD SLI guru

oh well in that case, yes. If the cables are known to have a "kink" in them that can cause the monitor to flicker or not respond correct, then by all means, get new cables. :-D

I was just speaking on the whole HDMI style argument that higher quality DVI cables produce a greater picture quality.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Backlight bleed photo for reference Apparently incorrectly taken - should have been from a greater distance, as described below... so ignore it


----------



## MenacingTuba

That's not back-light bleeding, it is IPS glow. You have to take the photo from afar and zoom in



The monitor on the right is a PLS panel (same as IPS) with some bleeding in the center. If I take the picture from too close with cranked exposure the PLS glow will look like the Elevens.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> That's not back-light bleeding, it is IPS glow. You have to take the photo from afar and zoom in
> The monitor on the right is a PLS panel (same as IPS) with some bleeding in the center. If I take the picture from too close with cranked exposure the PLS glow will look like the Elevens.


Got it - thanks! I'll take another photo in the manner you've described.

Edit: I must add, AccessoriesWhole has absolutely stellar customer service, and I highly recommend them. So far they've been most helpful and have great communication policies, so they have my vote of confidence. Very glad I chose them.


----------



## AMD SLI guru

I was wondering if there is a guide to overclocking the monitor? I've seen them for other screens but none for this one. Is it still possible?

I'm a noob when it comes to overclocking monitors.... heck, i didn't even know it was possible.


----------



## Broo0d

Thinking of getting CrossOver 27Q LED-P
And putting it next to my DELL 3007

Did all of you have this problem








Does the other brands have this problem

I admit my dell has something like that but not that much (maybe because black level is already not that great)


----------



## ElevenEleven

Apparently this is normal for LED lit panels. The actual bleed would be something you'd look for not at close angles like that but sitting farther away and looking at the monitor directly ahead of you.


----------



## LC155

SLI: Only the 2B boards could overclock. These cannot.

Broo0d: That's just IPS glow. Every monitor without an AT-W polariser (basically every IPS) will have that.


----------



## Broo0d

Thank you for your help

Any advice before buying it will be appreciated
Any reason i should buy a monitor from another brand other than this


----------



## lightslash555

Got my Crossover from AW today. Ordered Tuesday came today(thursday) insane turnaround time... went from korea->alaska->kentucky->texas

ordered from accessorieswhole. I asked to him to check for dead pixels at http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php and to also check for backlight bleeding, and the "blue tint" some were complaining about, and he said he did and it was perfect. Came with zero dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleeding, no blue tint. Good customer service, although i didn't receive a phone call like others did. paid $399 for the pivot version, even though you can get it for less from other sellers i paid a premium since AW has gotten good reviews. Although since a lot of others have gotten the monitor from other sellers with zero dead pixels I can't say if its worth it or not. Either way, extremely happy with the purchase. I scanned this topic for three days straight before pulling the trigger, lots of helpful info.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightslash555*
> 
> Got my Crossover from AW today. Ordered Tuesday came today(thursday) insane turnaround time... went from korea->alaska->kentucky->texas
> ordered from accessorieswhole. I asked to him to check for dead pixels at http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php and to also check for backlight bleeding, and the "blue tint" some were complaining about, and he said he did and it was perfect. Came with zero dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleeding, no blue tint. Good customer service, although i didn't receive a phone call like others did. paid $399 for the pivot version, even though you can get it for less from other sellers i paid a premium since AW has gotten good reviews. Although since a lot of others have gotten the monitor from other sellers with zero dead pixels I can't say if its worth it or not. Either way, extremely happy with the purchase. I scanned this topic for three days straight before pulling the trigger, lots of helpful info.


I'm hoping he does that as standard, even though you asked, since I forgot to mention the blue tint.


----------



## Wiz33

Just got my 2720MDP Pivot from BCC today (calif). Hooked it up and looks great. Have not check for dead pixel yet but no stuck pixel. Order last Sat got Tracking number by Monday and arrived on Thursday. Not bad at all. The Stand on the unit is great, metal base plate and every stable. It's on par with the stand on the U2709 that it replaced.

The default brightness is blindingly bright. Drop to 50 and may drop it a bit more but will wait for daylight. Took a bit of hit and miss to change the OSD to English. Did not notice the greenish tint that was mentioned in some other review but will pay more attention tonight (only got about 2 hours on the PC last night). Played a bunch of video ranging from 1080p Youtube, 13GB 720p MKV, 1080p mts from my camera and blu-ray movies and everything looks good for now. Played about an hour of D3 and am glad that my HD7850 seems to be able to handle it at full res.


----------



## Polarity

yup by 20$ rofl...


----------



## ElevenEleven

They were on sale for a while when I snatched one! For the customer service they've shown me so far though, they are well worth the premium!


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> They were on sale for a while when I snatched one! For the customer service they've shown me so far though, they are well worth the premium!


I agree; I think it's still worth it. If I were going buy a third (which I am considering; I really shouldn't), I would fork out the extra for AW again.


----------



## azza21

Anyone bought with dream-seller? Just wondering what he's like.


----------



## capitalj

Ugh didn't realize there was a club thread, I ended up posting in the previous LED-P one instead.

For those that don't have the Crossover pivot a full 90 degrees, have any of you fixed it? If so, how?

And looking at the prices between AW and Green-sum, it's a $50 difference. I'd have gone for Green-sum as he has the Squaretrade warranty option but I've read that they're not honoring the warranty outside of SK. Having said that, any good/bad experiences with Green-sum?


----------



## KickIt

Well, I read every thread in this forum before taking the plunge and ordering, so I thought I'd post a report.

I ordered the 27Q LED-P from Accessorieswhole ($399.98) on Monday evening (UK time) and it arrived Friday morning, 9am - pretty amazing really.
I mailed AW with a question on the Tuesday and had an instant and helpful reply.

The monitor arrived well packed and contained the usual DL-DVI cable, power brick and a UK adaptor, as requested. And of course the free head scarves - handy.
I used the brick with the power cable from my old monitor, and it's not running hot - probably as UK voltages are similar to Korean ones.

It's definitely worth attaching the power and DVI cables before putting the monitor in place, as the sockets are slightly awkwardly placed, but nothing too tricky. AW include a note reminding users to put the power cord in the right way round (flat part to the monitor), which was helpful.

Everything powered on first time with my XFX Radeon HD6870 GPU - BIOS screen and then straight into Windows. I have a dual-boot Windows 7 / Hackintosh, and both booted straight into full resolution.

The display seems to have one dead pixel - a small blurry grey blob right in the top left corner. This is only visible on a completely white background, so it won't bother me. Here's a photo:



Other than, that, everything is perfect, so I'd definitely recommend AW and this monitor for the price.

Here's a pic of the monitor in action:


----------



## overrobin

they are on sale again. check it again.


----------



## ElevenEleven

This Monoprice stand should fit CrossOver monitors, right? I don't have mine at the moment to check the distance between screw holes.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2#description

Thanks.


----------



## trulsrohk

Says it is only form10 - 23 inch displays

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5401&seq=1&format=2

Should work though


----------



## ElevenEleven

It works for the Korean monitors - just wanted to make sure the VESA connection part would be proper size.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> It works for the Korean monitors - just wanted to make sure the VESA connection part would be proper size.


Yes, the Crossover uses 100mm vesa mounts. Why are you replacing the stand btw? The crossover (non pivot) has the sturdiest stand of any monitor I've ever used, actually.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Not because of the sturdiness - for twisting left and right and for appearance (dislike the cheap looking glossy black/white stand in person). Basically for the LED-P functionality.


----------



## trulsrohk

If you want a really nice one the apple cinema display on they have there on mono price will work as well and will allow you to flip it to portrait etc


----------



## LC155

Personally I'd just grab a couple of ergotron MX's. Expensive, but the ability to fly the monitors around wherever you want above your desk is perfect.


----------



## Althulas

A few poor quality pics (sorry chaps) of the Crossover 2720MDP GOLD LED with pivot stand



















OSD present on this model, fortunatley supports english language once I figured out how to change it










HDMI connected to Xbox 360










Rear view of multi connectors




























The screen has some ips glow at the bottom corners on pure black screen which you can not see if you cast a shadow over that area and is not notable at all at desktop and after one week I've noticed one tiny dead pixel 4/5ths down just off centre and I have been unable to desern any notable input lag while gaming on Diablo 3 and BF3 on PC or during Dead Island on my Xbox. So far I am really pleased with my purchase


----------



## kmetek

althulas: where you bought it?


----------



## kmetek

AW and Green-sum

links please


----------



## chon

My perfect pixel came in and it looks great!!

However I can't even turn it on because I am waiting on an RMA'd motherboard to get replaced







All I can do it look at it, and how well it matches my Corsair 600T Case







I chose the non pivot because I have no reason for it. And glad I did because the white accents compliment my case nicely.


----------



## vyan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trulsrohk*
> 
> If you want a really nice one the apple cinema display on they have there on mono price will work as well and will allow you to flip it to portrait etc


where can i buy "apple cinema" stands on that site? or does anyone know where i can purchase a stand that is similar to apple monitor stands?

would love to replace the stand (for aesthetic reasons) when i purchase my crossover.

and btw, why did you guys choose the crossover and not the achieva simian?


----------



## kazzjohnson

Chon, that looks extremely sexy, plain and simple. I hope it's a good one.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vyan*
> 
> where can i buy "apple cinema" stands on that site? or does anyone know where i can purchase a stand that is similar to apple monitor stands?
> would love to replace the stand (for aesthetic reasons) when i purchase my crossover.
> and btw, why did you guys choose the crossover and not the achieva simian?


The stand he meant is a desk mount, not a stand on a desk surface

My personal monitor is Achieva ShiMian with tempered glass, which is just beautiful. I went for a CrossOver for a present for my boyfriend because of my seller's perfect pixel policy and promise of an A+ panel, as I wanted it to have no problems. Otherwise I would have gone for another Achieva IPSB, but afraid of more noticeable dust under glass. It's all mostly aesthetic - to each their own.


----------



## vyan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> The stand he meant is a desk mount, not a stand on a desk surface
> My personal monitor is Achieva ShiMian with tempered glass, which is just beautiful. I went for a CrossOver for a present for my boyfriend because of my seller's perfect pixel policy and promise of an A+ panel, as I wanted it to have no problems. Otherwise I would have gone for another Achieva IPSB, but afraid of more noticeable dust under glass. It's all mostly aesthetic - to each their own.


which seller is this?

also does the holes in the back help dissipate the heat?


----------



## LC155

I got mine in today, and so far, everything looks perfect! ...except one thing.

I'm getting those faint 'interference' lines running up and down the screen. Didn't notice it as first because it's very faint, but now that I see it, it's over the entire screen and I have no idea what's causing it.

Tried another DVI-D cable but for some reason doesn't want to display with the other one I have.


----------



## ElevenEleven

AccessoriesWhole / I would assume so.

Re: "interference" lines - Hm, could be your other dual link DVI cable is faulty?

Are you running other monitors on the same graphics card? Are you overclocking your graphics card?


----------



## LC155

Yeah, I'm running other monitors on it, but disabled them just to test. It's a 6950, and isn't overclocked. I'm guessing the DVI cable, since I haven't heard of this being an internal monitor problem.

Bah, now to get hunting for a spare cable. (And THIS is why I said cable that came with the monitor = bad)


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmetek*
> 
> althulas: where you bought it?


I bought it from the seller bigclothcraft. The sturdy box it was packed in was just wrapped in brown parcel paper but was delivered unmolested. I did drop a note to bigclothcraft stating how pleased I was with my purchase but advised that he should look at his packaging as some members on various forums have received there monitor boxes damaged due to courier incompetence and that a few layers of bubble wrap would instill buyer confidence on receiving a well protected item from the seller. He replied that they will take the advise and implement new packaging standards.

I have to say that bigclothcraft replied to all my enquiries promptly and has done his best from his end to make me a happy customer.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Yeah, I'm running other monitors on it, but disabled them just to test. It's a 6950, and isn't overclocked. I'm guessing the DVI cable, since I haven't heard of this being an internal monitor problem.
> Bah, now to get hunting for a spare cable. (And THIS is why I said cable that came with the monitor = bad)


So you're plugging in just the new monitor and nothing else? It's not in "extended display" mode by chance? Make sure it's set as "show only on this display" and is the only monitor plugged in to troubleshoot. Also, did you have any custom monitor settings in your catalyst control center perhaps? Like a different refresh rate setting somewhere. Just trying to think of anything software-related before blaming the cable or the monitor. Make sure the DVI cable are securely plugged into the monitor and your computer.

This monoprice cable is good, I got it and using it now, although there really was no need because both of my Korean ones worked just fine (one came with my Achieva and another with a Crossover):
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2685&seq=1&format=2
(there are longer versions, if needed). The cable is very very thick and inflexible, but not a big problem, as you'd just let it run between the stand and the back of the monitor.

Your cable could be fine too for that matter. I think the cases of them being bad are quite rare.


----------



## LC155

Yeah, I made sure I checked all of that too - so it's weird.

It's just a PITA that it 'see's but won't display with the other DVI cable I had (even though it's a DVI-D) so I'll have to speed order another and hope it's not the monitor.

Edit: Just noticed I have periodic flickering on a white screen as well. Hmm...


----------



## lazyMaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> A few poor quality pics (sorry chaps) of the Crossover 2720MDP GOLD LED with pivot stand
> 
> OSD present on this model, fortunatley supports english language once I figured out how to change it
> 
> Rear view of multi connectors


Can you make pics of OSD menu with all sub-items? Is there a separate adjustment of backlight in OSD (not only Brightness in Picture sub-item)? Thanks.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Yeah, I made sure I checked all of that too - so it's weird.
> It's just a PITA that it 'see's but won't display with the other DVI cable I had (even though it's a DVI-D) so I'll have to speed order another and hope it's not the monitor.
> Edit: Just noticed I have periodic flickering on a white screen as well. Hmm...


Flickering may be due to a loose cable inside the monitor.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Flickering may be due to a loose cable inside the monitor.


Ahh, crap. Just remembered that.

Although, it's not really flickering. It's like the brightness is lowering and rising again in the centre of the monitor... I've never seen anything like that. Either way, it's actually stopped now. I have no idea why.

The moving 'noise' is still there, but I'll have to wait until I can test with a new DVI cable.


----------



## LC155

Update

Noticed the flickering again.

Haha.


----------



## ElevenEleven

!!!! I had the very same issue with my CrossOver! It would start randomly fluctuating in brightness, looking like pale strobe light flicker. I actually sent mine back for an exchange, and it had some yellow tinting. The brightness flickering started about 20-30 minutes after turning on the monitor and got gradually more prominent,with time. On a cold boot, it would not appear for some time.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyMaks*
> 
> Can you make pics of OSD menu with all sub-items? Is there a separate adjustment of backlight in OSD (not only Brightness in Picture sub-item)? Thanks.


Just for you LazyMaks, just adjustment for DCR on/off, Brightness and contrast, Colour management settings, OSD position, time and duration, The blanked out one I guess is for picture positioning and the last menu for language, default input, overscan, 16:9, 4:3 and Auto and factory reset.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> !!!! I had the very same issue with my CrossOver! It would start randomly fluctuating in brightness, looking like pale strobe light flicker. I actually sent mine back for an exchange, and it had some yellow tinting. The brightness flickering started about 20-30 minutes after turning on the monitor and got gradually more prominent,with time. On a cold boot, it would not appear for some time.


Exactly the same issue as mine, and we appear to have the same version.


----------



## psyick

So my 27Q arrived today & first impressions were great, the build quality being a lot better than I had anticipated.

I plugged it in & all was OK... for about 20 seconds, then the screen went black (but still backlit, power is on etc). If I turn it on/off it works for a little while (5 - 30 seconds) then goes black. Likewise if I pull the DVI cable out & replug it works for a bit.

I knew if anyone got a duff one it would be me! Has anyone else had this problem, I skimmed through this thread but didn't see any?

I am erring towards a faulty DVI cable & am tempted to go buy one for £20 tonight to see if it resolves it. Alternatively I wondered if it was the graphics card seeing as I bought a new one to get the resolution I needed for this screen, but unfortunately I have no way of testing the DVI out as my old monitor just has a VGA in (which does work OK with the new card).


----------



## lazyMaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> For CrossOver 2720MDP owners, here are my calibrated settings:
> Brightness: 30
> Contrast: 75
> Red: 98
> Green: 90
> Blue: 95
> I will send my ICC profile to TFT Central so it should be up in a few days.


Changing the Brightness setting adjusts the backlight level? Or just change the panel's brightness level? Hazro HZ27WD (similar to Shimian QH270-IPSMD) manual says that the Brightness setting "Adjusts brightness digitally using 'panel blocking'. A backlight adjust feature exists which limits voltage to the panel and therefore dims the backlight. This is called 'ECO-MODE' in a different menu". How it works in Crossover 2720MDP?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Just for you LazyMaks...


Thanks


----------



## computerdeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Although, it's not really flickering. It's like the brightness is lowering and rising again in the centre of the monitor...


I just got my Crossover 27Q LED P Perfect Pixel today. Mine does this too. Goes bright then dim repeatedly. Also mine has the dark strip on the bottom of the monitor. Bought it from Accessories Whole.


----------



## Dabb

This isn't looking good for me.. I recently bought a Crossover 27Q too and it seems there's been a bad batch or something lately with a lot of people with this flickering problem :S


----------



## computerdeth

I've contacted Accessories Whole and they have been great in customer service.

I give them props for that.


----------



## Coopa

Most rage inducing thing just happened to me yesterday....
I waited and waited for my monitor for like 4 hours for it to come in and decided to go out and get something to eat.
While I went to get something to eat the delivery people came and left me a paper that they are coming back again tomorrow............................................ GAHHHH!!!


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> This isn't looking good for me.. I recently bought a Crossover 27Q too and it seems there's been a bad batch or something lately with a lot of people with this flickering problem :S


wondering if same thing happened to 2720mdp?


----------



## xtrad3r

Greetings. Purchased the Crossover 27Q LED-P version yesterday from accessorieswhole, they shipped it within hours. A little concerned about the issues that some folks are having here lately, I realy hope its a good one!

Was going to buy the Dell U2711 originaly, before I came across these Korean models. Chose the Crossover for its superior build, esthetics, and the very nice pivot stand.


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Does anyone know if this will work with the new Macbook Pro w/ retina display? AW's ebay listing says that it is not compatible with Mac.

Thanks!


----------



## psyick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyick*
> 
> So my 27Q arrived today & first impressions were great, the build quality being a lot better than I had anticipated.
> I plugged it in & all was OK... for about 20 seconds, then the screen went black (but still backlit, power is on etc). If I turn it on/off it works for a little while (5 - 30 seconds) then goes black. Likewise if I pull the DVI cable out & replug it works for a bit.
> I knew if anyone got a duff one it would be me! Has anyone else had this problem, I skimmed through this thread but didn't see any?
> I am erring towards a faulty DVI cable & am tempted to go buy one for £20 tonight to see if it resolves it. Alternatively I wondered if it was the graphics card seeing as I bought a new one to get the resolution I needed for this screen, but unfortunately I have no way of testing the DVI out as my old monitor just has a VGA in (which does work OK with the new card).


For those of you desperately waiting to see if I got this fixed







I am pleased to announce this issue is power related. Better yet, fixable by plugging directly into the socket rather than an extension cable.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> wondering if same thing happened to 2720mdp?


I got in a 2720MDP pivot from BCC last week. Did not pay for any extra like pixel perfect and such and it's pretty great. No stuck pixel and no brightness or flickering problem at all. This thing is extremely bright I initially turned brightness down to 35 but I just dropped it to 30. I went with the pivot for the height adjustable stand and it's real stable and I would say it's on par with my Dell 2709 in quality,


----------



## braveblade

Decided to go with 2720mdp pivot.
$499 + take offer - BCC
$569 - AW
Which one should I choose? I know AW is the best in terms of customer service, but is it worth the extra money? Suggestion please!!!


----------



## Dabb

Received an email from BCC when I asked why the tracking wasn't working, he told me that the 27Q weren't passing QC lately so he's waiting for new batches and checking them. Although I don't want to wait longer, it's really reassuring that he checks them well!


----------



## overrobin

What about QC??


----------



## overrobin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Decided to go with 2720mdp pivot.
> $499 + take offer - BCC
> $569 - AW
> Which one should I choose? I know AW is the best in terms of customer service, but is it worth the extra money? Suggestion please!!!


Oh, you forgot to add extra shipping fee of $40 on BCC.
and I believe they ship it via EMS.

Not like AW ship their's via Fedex.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyMaks*
> 
> Changing the Brightness setting adjusts the backlight level. How dies it work for the Crossover 2720MDP?


Most monitors only have a brightness setting which I'm pretty sure changes the brightness, black level and back-light all at the same time. Lowering the brightness can also effect the gamma and colour temperature as well.

Lowering the brightness on the 2720MDP affected the brightness, black level and slightly affected the gamma when lowering it.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overrobin*
> 
> What about QC??


Recent problems. I'm guessing he got wind of the 'brightness flickering' issue that a few of us reported.


----------



## Maelstrom3

Hi guys,

I've been looking at this thread, and other like it for the past 4 days straight and I think I'm going to take the plunge on dual Crossover 27q LED-Ps.

I think I'll go with Accessorieswhole, since the peace of mind of paying the premium price of a "flawless" monitor with return shipping covered is worth it to me. When I sent him a message to confirm this guarantee this is what he said:

"Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
FOr our perfect Pixel monitor,

Our guarantee covers as you mentioned as below:
This guarantee covers:
- receiving an A+ panel
- zero dead pixels
- zero bright/stuck pixels
- other faults covered by manufacturer warranty

And if there's monitor default/defect, return shipping fee is on us.

Sincerely

- accessorieswhole"

I have a single GTX 580 (the Gigabyte 1.5gb that is OC'd to 795mhz, but I had to downclock it to stock to run BF3 - I've learnt my lesson to avoid Gigabyte cards) - Will I be able to run two of these monitors off this card?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overrobin*
> 
> Oh, you forgot to add extra shipping fee of $40 on BCC.
> and I believe they ship it via EMS.
> Not like AW ship their's via Fedex.


Not sure where you are but BCC offers free shipping to Canada via DHL.


----------



## Coopa

I got my 27Q LED-P And NO FLAWS WHAT SOOOO EVER!

Extremely excited but I'm noticing some stuttering in games .... my good ol 6950 can't keep up with it!
But overall I'm Happy as the coyote that finally caught the roadrunner.


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coopa*
> 
> I got my 27Q LED-P And NO FLAWS WHAT SOOOO EVER!
> Extremely excited but I'm noticing some stuttering in games .... my good ol 6950 can't keep up with it!
> But overall I'm Happy as the coyote that finally caught the roadrunner.


Did you pay for the pixel perfect? Who did you buy from?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coopa*
> 
> I got my 27Q LED-P And NO FLAWS WHAT SOOOO EVER!
> Extremely excited but I'm noticing some stuttering in games .... my good ol 6950 can't keep up with it!
> But overall I'm Happy as the coyote that finally caught the roadrunner.


Who did you buy it from? Have you noticed any brightness flickering on white pages?

(Asking this question as so far three recent buyers have confirmed the issue)


----------



## Ftruck

Has anyone bought one of these pixel perfect monitors, or any pixel perfect monitor for that matter from accessorieswhole. The wording is pretty explicit that there should be no dead or stuck pixels and goes as far as to say they are A+ panels (I call shenanigans on the A+ claim). Just wondering on what people's thoughts/experience was on the matter. It seems as though you'd be able to to raise an eBay dispute if you did get stuck or dead pixels due to the listing expressly guaranteeing that you shouldn't.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120926762189&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Edit: have now read over the last 30 or so pages and see people have ordered the PP from AW. Were they pixel perfect as promised?


----------



## LC155

Yes. Mine has absolutely 0 pixel faults. I have a different issue, which I am in contact with them over, and so far they've been great.

If you absolute despise the defective pixels, it's worth the extra.


----------



## xtrad3r

I ordered my LED-P 27Q on tuesday 19jun by 630pm from AW, and its already arrived! Incredible shipping speed all the way from Korea! I'll provide feedback once I get it up and running.


----------



## ElevenEleven

My perfect pixel 27Q LED had no dead or stuck pixels


----------



## LC155

Nevermind - going to confirm it for myself more before I post about it.


----------



## De-Zant

My 27Q LED-P from green-sum arrived a few days ago (took 6 business days to ship to finland) and I just got done setting it up. One stuck (green) pixel and a slight bit of BLB on the left side near the top (just below the corner). Otherwise fine.


----------



## xtrad3r

Well, I hooked my LED-P 27Q up and its beautiful. Very vibrant colors and no banding issues. However, I got 3 dead pixels. One bottom left, and one upper center and one bottom right. The upper one really sticks out... In the listing AW says: "Dead Pixel : 1 maximum" does this mean they would replace the monitor and send me a new one free? Ergh, kind of disappointed now, because I really love it otherwise.

BTW, I didn't buy the "perfect pixel" model, but a regular 27Q LED-P one.


----------



## TarballX

I just pulled the trigger and bought one of these from AccessoriesWhole. I gave up waiting for the 120hz Catleaps after they kept getting delayed. I probably won't bother to post pictures since enough people have already, but I'll definitely give an update on dead pixels/blue tint/flickering when I get it.


----------



## Maelstrom3

I consulted with a mate and he said I'll be able to run two of these off my single GTX580.

I'll game off a single monitor and the other will be used for browsing and remote desktop etc. So my gaming FPS shouldn't take too much of a hit either. And if it does, I'll be glad to be rid of this Gigabyte card and upgrade to an ASUS or EVGA one. Down the track I might get a third of these monitors, then I'll be set (once I get a larger desk).

As TarballX said, I might not post pics but I will give updates on the quality of the screens.

I'll be going with the Perfect Pixel LED-P from accessorieswhole.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c#ht_14290wt_1163


----------



## kazzjohnson

Why are people paying $500 for Crossover when you can get Shimian or Catleap for $300?


----------



## Wiz33

I have no idea why. I bought 2 Catleap Q270 and 1 2720MDP pivot from 2 different seller (non AW). Did not get any option like perfect pixel and I have no stuck pixel on any of them and no noticeable dead pixel (like a cluster or something). I would rather spend the extra money on getting Square Trade 3 years warranty (total would still be much less than what AW wants).


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Why are people paying $500 for Crossover when you can get Shimian or Catleap for $300?


I paid $476 for a pixel perfect Crossover. You can't get pixel perfect Shimian or Catleap for $300.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cup0Noodles*
> 
> I paid $476 for a pixel perfect Crossover. You can't get pixel perfect Shimian or Catleap for $300.


But you can for $350 or so, which is still more than $100 cheaper.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> I have no idea why. I bought 2 Catleap Q270 and 1 2720MDP pivot from 2 different seller (non AW). Did not get any option like perfect pixel and I have no stuck pixel on any of them and no noticeable dead pixel (like a cluster or something). I would rather spend the extra money on getting Square Trade 3 years warranty (total would still be much less than what AW wants).


It's the insurance. If you're OCD about those stuck pixels I'd rather NOT play the lottery.

Edit: Some people prefer the look of the crossover and the superior build quality.


----------



## Maelstrom3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> I have no idea why. I bought 2 Catleap Q270 and 1 2720MDP pivot from 2 different seller (non AW). Did not get any option like perfect pixel and I have no stuck pixel on any of them and no noticeable dead pixel (like a cluster or something). I would rather spend the extra money on getting Square Trade 3 years warranty (total would still be much less than what AW wants).


Square Trade is not available outside of the US and Canada.

People live outside of these countries (shocking, I know) - the peace of mind and paid return shipping is worth it to me.


----------



## xtrad3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Why are people paying $500 for Crossover when you can get Shimian or Catleap for $300?


To me it was the superior look, build and stand of the Crossover. I have to say, in that department, I'm not dissapointed, shes a beauty.


----------



## 08silverado

For the quality and looks. It's just SO much better on the CrossOvers. I would pay the premium all day. I absolutely love that it's mainly metal too; I have a thing for metal electronics... just scream quality to me.


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> But you can for $350 or so, which is still more than $100 cheaper.


$100 is well worth the extra build quality & sleek looks of the Crossover IMO. Also, since monitor's tend to have a longer life-span than most PC components, another $100 over the 3-4 years is nothing.


----------



## danyyyel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Why are people paying $500 for Crossover when you can get Shimian or Catleap for $300?


I would like to ask the same question. I see the crossover at $ 359/369 from bigclothcraft and from Red-cap. More so that they are tested, that is they test the monitor before shipping. Is there any feedback good or bad on these seller for everyone to use only one seller for a good $ 100/150 more.

For me I would like some feedback on Red-cap because he seems to be the only one to ship to my country.


----------



## kaze892

anyone got pics of when it is dismantled to just the panel?
was wondering if the vesa mount will be at the back of the panel


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danyyyel*
> 
> For me I would like some feedback on Red-cap because he seems to be the only one to ship to my country.


Yo danyyyel-

Why don't you email or pm the folks like Accessorieswhole to see if they ship to your country. I paid the difference between $360 and $378 to go with Accessorieswhole - and I am glad that I did. I personally wouldn't fork out over $100+ for one of Accessorieswhole's so called Pixel Perfect monitors-eh!!


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Why are people paying $500 for Crossover when you can get Shimian or Catleap for $300?


I'll be getting one because I prefer the looks and I'm a stickler for stuck or dead pixels (they'd drive me insane) so AW's pixel perfect and return shipping policy is great for me. I'm not so much buying the Korean monitors because they are cheap but because they have minimal input lag due to their lack of a scaler. If Dell or HP decided to bail their scaler and stupid amount of inputs and make a model without obscene input lag I'd pay their prices for it but they don't so the $490 Crossover LED-P it is.


----------



## De-Zant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> If Dell or HP decided to *bail their scaler and stupid amount of inputs and make a model without obscene input lag* I'd pay their prices for it but they don't


The HP ZR2740W has no proper scaler, as low as input lag as any of these korean models and doesn't have too many inputs. Not all western models suffer from these, although many do. (not to say that the multitude of inputs would be an issue on its own). The ZR2740W happens to be one model that does not suffer from these issues. Thus what you just said does not make sense.


----------



## LC155

If they bailed out on the crappy LG AG coating I'd happily buy the Dell U27...


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *De-Zant*
> 
> The HP ZR2740W has no proper scaler, as low as input lag as any of these korean models and doesn't have too many inputs. Not all western models suffer from these, although many do. (not to say that the multitude of inputs would be an issue on its own). The ZR2740W happens to be one model that does not suffer from these issues. Thus what you just said does not make sense.


Yup I certainly look foolish now haha. Thanks for pointing that out, will have to give it a look in. I'm guessing that input lag + pixel response time is going to be heaps more due to the 12ms GTG on the HP. I'm assuming the HP doesn't use RTC or all manufacturer listed response times could just be BS I guess. It also makes a half truth out of my "not as a cheaper option" comment. I'd be glad to pay the sub $700 it is the in the US or even if it was the same around $700 the Dell U2711 is here but at $900 - $1000 from a trustworthy reseller and $1050 from HP themselves in Australia that's a little steep, really getting over being mercilously fisted by distributors price gouging here. I'm also having a look at the Hazros, anyone know what panel grade they use?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> Yup I certainly look foolish now haha. Thanks for pointing that out, will have to give it a look in. I'm guessing that input lag + pixel response time is going to be heaps more due to the 12ms GTG on the HP. I'm assuming the HP doesn't use RTC or all manufacturer listed response times could just be BS I guess. It also makes a half truth out of my "not as a cheaper option" comment. I'd be glad to pay the sub $700 it is the in the US or even if it was the same around $700 the Dell U2711 is here but at $900 - $1000 from a trustworthy reseller and $1050 from HP themselves in Australia that's a little steep, really getting over being mercilously fisted by distributors price gouging here. I'm also having a look at the Hazros, anyone know what panel grade they use?


27" Hazro?

Don't bother. CS and QC is nonexistent with them. Just check the huge thread on the moniter at overclockers uk forums.


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> 27" Hazro?
> Don't bother. CS and QC is nonexistent with them. Just check the huge thread on the moniter at overclockers uk forums.


Cheers for the super speedy reply. Looks like it's still LED-Ps for me then. It'd be sweet if they put a height adjustable stand but no pivot on the LED or put that black/white base on the LED-P because I think it looks dope. Adjustable height is a must though because It'll be next to an as of yet undecided 120hz monitor and I'd like to keep the heights as close as possible or It'll eat away at me.


----------



## Polarity

^^^^
can just use books to adjust ur height xD


----------



## lazyMaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Most monitors only have a brightness setting which I'm pretty sure changes the brightness, black level and back-light all at the same time. Lowering the brightness can also effect the gamma and colour temperature as well.
> Lowering the brightness on the 2720MDP affected the brightness, black level and slightly affected the gamma when lowering it.


Yes, in most of the monitors Brightness in OSD adjusts the black level (by changing levels of backlight). The contrast level remains at a constant level with decreasing brightness. But in some monitors Brightness in OSD change not the backlight level, but only brightness of white point (backlight continues to work at maximum level). In this case, the contrast level will be greatly reduced with reducing the brightness. Sometimes the monitor has two separate settings - Brightness and Backlight (for example, Hazro and earlier samples of Crossover 2720MDP). But the last 2720MDP buyers say they have no option in the OSD to adjust the backlight. Only Brightness setting. What is it - Crossover's engineers mistakenly forgotten about adjusting the backlight in the new firmware? Or Brightness setting is now responsible for adjusting backlight?
Maybe someone from the owners of the new 2720MDP (without Backlight setting in OSD) has a calibration equipment and can measure the change of contrast level with a decrease in brightness?


----------



## Bigm

Thinking about ordering 4 of Led-Ps for when I do my total system overhaul. Anyone know where I can find a good stand that has 3 monitors on the bottom and 1 on the top?


----------



## sparklewolf

Hi all, been reading through the thread slowly and kinda jumping in and out of random pages.. 134 is a bit much to do in one go so apologies if some of my questions have already been covered

I've settled on the crossover 27Q or the one with the multiple display connections (27M or 2720MDP.. im not entirely sure of the differences between these two)

i read a few pages back that some people were having problems with flickering whiteness on their 27Q's.. is this something I should be mindful of when I'm ordering? was it a bad batch that might have been sold/recalled by now or should I maybe think about getting a different brand or waiting a couple of weeks

I don't play many fast paced fps so i'm not terribly worried about input lag, I do play a fair bit of starcraft 2 though and I'm wondering how this will work on a 27 inch screen. On another site I saw someone with a Dell u2711 was able to drop down to a 1920x1080 res scaled 1:1 in the middle of their screen and it left black bars along the sides. Not exactly pretty but it would do the job nicely for a few hours scII. I've asked on that website but no one knows so I'll ask here, does the crossover 27M/DP have this feature as well? I don't think it does from what I've seen googling but really so much of this stuff is greek to me I might have seen someone mention it and not realised what they were talking about.

and last question.. not technical at all. I've seen a few different shops on ebay selling the two of the same monitor but often with 30-40$ difference in price. Each time I've seen it i've read the product page, tried to find differences that would explain the price difference but every time the specifications and offers/whatever are the same. Any idea what this is about? I know it could be any number of a hundred reasons related to the shop itself but I thought maybe there's some general reason for it that I just haven't discovered.

thanks all, gona go back to reading the rest of the thread now


----------



## LC155

I can't answer that for you, about the flickering. I am sending mine back, and AW are definitely aware of the issue now. I've asked them if they've found out any more information about it, and we'll see on Monday. They're a good company though, so rest assured I'm not worried.

For the shops question, it's just sellers trying to out-do each other. Generally, the more expensive vendors will have better return policies should anything go wrong (AW, for example)


----------



## sparklewolf

cool, it'll be a few weeks before I'm able to afford to order anyway so I'll keep an eye here and see what people are saying

I've seen a lot of people mention AW as being the best alright, the paid return is a great option when you're dealing with shipping to korea.. puts the mind at ease a bit


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lazyMaks*
> 
> Maybe someone from the owners of the new 2720MDP (without Backlight setting in OSD) has a calibration equipment and can measure the change of contrast level with a decrease in brightness?


I have a colorimeter (i1 display pro) and a revised 2720MDP. Decreasing the brightness affected the brightness, black level and slightly affected the gamma when lowering it. Contrast remained stable, around 850-950:1 across all ranges of brightness. I used HCFR to play around with the settings to try and achieve the best results with the OSD before profiling.

Increasing the contrast in the OSD raised the contrast to around 1050:1 but caused bleaching and greatly reduced the gamma. Decreasing the contrast raised the gamma to around 2.22 with a contrast setting of 40, but reduced the contrast to around 500:1, which looks horrible. After calibration the contrast was 850:1 @120cdm/2 (Gamma 2.22, colour temperature 6500k).


----------



## lazyMaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> I have a colorimeter (i1 display pro) and a revised 2720MDP.
> ...


You have 2720MDP with pivot or non-pivot version?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Non-pivot. I have some youtube videos with the 2720MDP and the Samsung S27A850D if you are interested.

http://www.youtube.com/user/240hzTeIaStorm/videos

This one has the best info


----------



## LC155

I just noticed in the comments of that video: "I didn't send it﻿ back, it just stopped flickering once I screwed the DVI pins in very tightly"

Can you elaborate more on the flickering? Want to see if it's similar to mine.


----------



## rigrom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I just noticed in the comments of that video: "I didn't send it﻿ back, it just stopped flickering once I screwed the DVI pins in very tightly"
> Can you elaborate more on the flickering? Want to see if it's similar to mine.


I'm just about to order one, and was looking into the same issue. He has a youtube video of the flickering at 




It's clearly caused by a bad signal (imo), and not the backlight. Interestingly enough, there are a few videos on youtube about 27" iMacs that have the same issue. Considering they use the same panels, the root cause is probably the same. Almost all of them were uploaded two years ago.

From what I gather, yours has an actual backlight problem?


----------



## ElevenEleven

For my flickering issue, I tried two different dvi cables, well inserted, with no improvement. Also tried a different power brick. I saw it at all brightness levels when it happened.

I don't think it's a common defect, however, as there would be more posts about it. Very occasional, looks like.


----------



## rigrom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> For my flickering issue, I tried two different dvi cables, well inserted, with no improvement. Also tried a different power brick. I saw it at all brightness levels when it happened.
> I don't think it's a common defect, however, as there would be more posts about it. Very occasional, looks like.


Very interesting. When this happened to you, did the luminosity just jump around (no noise/artifacts on the screen, like the ones on MenacingTuba's video)?

Sometimes increasing the brightness gets rid of backlight flickering (when it's PWM related), but like you said, it didn't help in this case.


----------



## ElevenEleven

It was pure brightness / luminosity fluctuation - no artifacts, no color shifts. It was like backlight jittering. Increasing or decreasing brightness did not trigger it, and it was apparent at all brightness levels. The flickering began gradually and increased in intensity to become visible after maybe 15-30 minutes (I only tested for a day and a half, so didn't establish the period too accurately). Basically it wasn't there when cold-booting and then began after some time on. The full effect wasn't extremely prominent, but if you were reading a web page, it was definitely there, causing slight lines and swirls of brightness/darkness in your line of sight.


----------



## Broo0d

my 27Q led-p arrived today, everything is ok
no stuck or dead pixels
but i have brightness flickering issue


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broo0d*
> 
> my 27Q led-p arrived today, everything is ok
> no stuck or dead pixels
> but i have brightness flickering issue


Damn that's unlucky with the flickering issue. Which buyer did you buy it from?


----------



## LC155

My issue wasn't quite the same. I could trigger the issue with lowering the brightness, and at the higher levels it disappeared entirely. It was as described above, just the backlight looking like it decreased/increased rapidly over and over again in a noticeable fashion.


----------



## AMD SLI guru

I love my Crossover 27q :-D It's amazing!


----------



## TarballX

Just turned on my 27Q for the first time. Initial impressions:


No dead pixels that I've found yet, but I haven't run an extensive check. There was some dust on the screen at first, but a microfiber cloth easily brushed it off.
Haven't noticed any flickering. Not sure how to test for this exactly, I just sat on Google and looked at the screen, brightness didn't seem to shift.
Whites may be slightly uneven across the monitor. Could just be my eyes but there seem to be a *slightly* yellower vertical band near the center of the monitor, but it really isn't very noticeable.
1920x1080 works fine using GPU scaling.
Nvidia control panel says it supports HDCP.
Back light bleed is most noticeable in the bottom right, where the power light is. Might be able to eliminate that by disconnecting the power LED, but it's really not a deal breaker by any means.
This thing is pretty beautiful overall. Time to test some games on it..


----------



## LC155

To test for the flickering, just go on a bright white webpage (google works well, yes) and play with the brightness. Observe if the backlight seems to 'shimmer' at the lower settings or not.

Finally, was it a PP model or not?

And yeah, with these monitors, getting a perfectly uniform panel is probably going to be a hard bet. It won't be one of the things they check for.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> To test for the flickering, just go on a bright white webpage (google works well, yes) and play with the brightness. Observe if the backlight seems to 'shimmer' at the lower settings or not.
> Finally, was it a PP model or not?
> And yeah, with these monitors, getting a perfectly uniform panel is probably going to be a hard bet. It won't be one of the things they check for.


I really don't see any shimmering or anything, but I'll post if I do start seeing it.
No, it wasn't a perfect pixel model.


----------



## L D4WG

Ive been considering this for a while, is anyone thinking new LCD panels will be out soon that make these obsolete?



With new HP, Dell and Apple screens, there are sure to be new Korean ones too..

3840 x 2160 in 2013
4096 x 2304 in 2014
4800 x 2700 in 2015


----------



## Dabb

Not sure how fast the "Korean" ones would be out though. If you think about it, the ACD and Dell U2711H was released last year AFAIK, this means even if they release 4k resolutions in mainstream monitors (Dell, HP, Apple etc) it would be at least another year I reckon for there to be "Korean monitors".


----------



## L D4WG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Not sure how fast the "Korean" ones would be out though. If you think about it, the ACD and Dell U2711H was released last year AFAIK, this means even if they release 4k resolutions in mainstream monitors (Dell, HP, Apple etc) it would be at least another year I reckon for there to be "Korean monitors".


You could be right, but they could also release really quickly if they are on top of their game...

Man a nice 30 Inch 4800 x 2700 would be sweet...


----------



## LC155

And it'll also cost a bomb for a few years.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> I really don't see any shimmering or anything, but I'll post if I do start seeing it.
> No, it wasn't a perfect pixel model.


Who'd you buy it from? Very interesting...


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Who'd you buy it from? Very interesting...


AccessoriesWhole. I did tell them I had read about some monitors having the flickering issue and they claimed they'd check and make sure it didn't. I guess they either did that or I got lucky.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> AccessoriesWhole. I did tell them I had read about some monitors having the flickering issue and they claimed they'd check and make sure it didn't. I guess they either did that or I got lucky.


Thanks for that.


----------



## Broo0d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Damn that's unlucky with the flickering issue. Which buyer did you buy it from?


ta_planet

it is not a pixel perfect

also when viewing from angels , colors seems to shift to gray or white

direct look to monitor
i didnt do anything to colors, so dont compare the colors
crossover 27q led-p on the left, dell 3007hc on the right


----------



## MenacingTuba

The 3007 is wide gamut so it is showing it's inaccurate "wrong," colours. I'd like to see a picture of some people so every one can see how sun burned skin tones look on a wide gamut display.


----------



## 08silverado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> Ive been considering this for a while, is anyone thinking new LCD panels will be out soon that make these obsolete?
> 
> With new HP, Dell and Apple screens, there are sure to be new Korean ones too..
> 3840 x 2160 in 2013
> 4096 x 2304 in 2014
> 4800 x 2700 in 2015


I wouldn't get your hopes up for these to release soon.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Apple will at minimum have a 1 year exclusive on any IPS panel with a >1600p resolution.

Samsung may release a >2000p PLS panel earlier, but these companies are all in league (a few years go they got in trouble for price fixing) so I seriously doubt it.


----------



## fullhd99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> Ive been considering this for a while, is anyone thinking new LCD panels will be out soon that make these obsolete?
> 
> With new HP, Dell and Apple screens, there are sure to be new Korean ones too..
> 3840 x 2160 in 2013
> 4096 x 2304 in 2014
> 4800 x 2700 in 2015


HP,DELL,APPLE use korean display panel for premium product esspecialy LG
i think korean monitor brand will also produce high resolution monitor with low price of the quality panel just below the
24-30" 4800x2700 fantastic resolution need more powerfull GPU for playing 3D
previously 2001 IBM has produce monitor T220/T221 with fantastic resolution 3840x2400 for 20"


----------



## kazzjohnson

I'm not worried about upcoming resolutions higher than 1440p or 1600p because 4k resolution requires far more horsepower to push on highest details than I can afford.


----------



## amnali

I ordered a pixel perfect 27Q from Accessories Whole and am overall very pleased with it. 3-day shipping to the southwest US!


*Power:* I only tried the included 2-pin power cable + 2-pin adapter once, and the screen had a lot of noise. I have the LOADUS power brick that lists input voltage of 190-240V. It also has an extra sticker on it that says "AC 110V IS ACCEPTABLE". It works fine with a regular 3-pin grounded computer power cable.
*OSD:* There is no OSD, only up/down buttons for the backlighting intensity.
ScreenBright DDC/CI does not work with the monitor.
*AMD APU:* The monitor *does not* work with my Llano CPU (A8-3850) - only runs at 640x480. (Disappointing, since my motherboard claims support for up to 2560x1600 with a Llano APU.)
*AMD 5750:* The monitor *does* work with my HIS IceQ+ 1GB AMD 5750 (which is commonly listed as not supporting these 2560x1440 Korean monitors). My 5750 is happily powering both the 27Q (DL DVI) and a 1920x1200 24" display (HDMI).
I think I have a single dead pixel (it's just grey, not black - maybe because of the backlighting?). It's in the corner and not even noticeable unless the screen is white and I look for it. Display quality is important to me (previous monitor was an $800 24" BenQ); I paid a premium for this 27Q ($475 for pixel perfect from Accessories Whole). I am not disappointed. A single dead(ish) pixel far off-center on a very high DPI display is no bother.
The pixels on this display are *tiny*! It's hard to use in conjunction with my lower DPI BenQ, since fonts that are a nice size on the BenQ are tiny on this display.
*Color Question:* How do I calibrate the color? The color is rather bad - too much blue and/or green. I actually wouldn't notice it much if not for the 24" BenQ sitting right next to it - the contrast between the 2 is siginificant, and I prefer the colors on the BenQ. The AMD Vision Engine Control Center does not even have RGB sliders - just a hue slider. Moving the hue slider might fix some hues, but always leaves others messed up. I downloaded and activated TFT Central's Crossover 27Q color profile, but it didn't seem to do much.


----------



## Pouleterie

Dang. My old 24'' Samsung Syncmaster gave out on me, came back to overclock.net to see what you guys were drooling at lately, and much to my surprise, I stumbled upon this thread. I actually read the entire thing out of sheer curiosity. I'm really, REALLY interested in purchasing one(okay I lied, 3 of them) of the Crossover 27Qs.

My problem then? I requested a quote from Squaretrade, and here was the answer:

"We are pleased to offer coverage to residents of the these provinces: Alberta, British Columbia, Manitoba, New Brunswick, Newfoundland and Labrador, Nova Scotia, Ontario, Prince Edward Island for purchases at eBay US, TigerDirect and CompUSA stores and websites."

aka every province or almost, minus Quebec, yet again. My question is, how comfortable would you be ordering more than one of these with a one-year warranty nobody can actually say they've used? I know AccessoriesWhole offers a 1-year warranty, but how viable would you say this model is after warranty?

I know this is a dumb question, only time will tell, but I'd like some inputs.


----------



## rigrom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pouleterie*
> 
> My question is, how comfortable would you be ordering more than one of these with a one-year warranty nobody can actually say they've used? I know AccessoriesWhole offers a 1-year warranty, but how viable would you say this model is after warranty?
> I know this is a dumb question, only time will tell, but I'd like some inputs.


I just ordered one from AW on Amazon, mainly because I wanted a nice amazon.com receipt for the taxman. They seem to think that ebay is only for buying/selling used stuff.

I don't think you'll have any issues within the one year warranty period. If the unit is DOA or develops a serious problem within 30 days, AW pays for direct shipping back to SK. After that, you'll send it to their warehouse (I think there's one in Canada as well - at least they said this applies to US, Canadian and UK customers), and they then ship it back to SK - so you'll only pay for local shipping.

One (free) way to get an extra warranty that actually works, is to check if one of your credit cards offers one. Mine does (for all purchases in excess of $150), and I'm happy to report that they seem to pay out without much arm-twisting. Your mileage may vary, of course, and it'd be nice if you could ask someone who has first hand experience with that particular card.

@ElevenEleven @LC155

No wonder you decided to return them, I know I couldn't live with that kind of flickering either. I hope AW can pluck out the troubled units at their end, now that the issue is known.


----------



## lazyMaks

*MenacingTuba*
One more question about 2720MDP - this monitor supports DDC/CI protocol?


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigrom*
> 
> I just ordered one from AW on Amazon, mainly because I wanted a nice amazon.com receipt for the taxman. They seem to think that ebay is only for buying/selling used stuff.


Wow, they're even on Amazon now!


----------



## Pouleterie

Good idea for the credit card insurance, but that won't do for me either; it would need to be on amazon.ca for it to work, I believe. My credit card mentions it adds extended warranty to a valid canadian warranty. I don't suppose this counts as one, correct? That and I highly doubt they'll consider ebay a seller. I guess I'll call Visa and find out.


----------



## Polarity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigrom*
> 
> I just ordered one from AW on Amazon, mainly because I wanted a nice amazon.com receipt for the taxman. They seem to think that ebay is only for buying/selling used stuff.
> I don't think you'll have any issues within the one year warranty period. If the unit is DOA or develops a serious problem within 30 days, AW pays for direct shipping back to SK. After that, you'll send it to their warehouse (I think there's one in Canada as well - at least they said this applies to US, Canadian and UK customers), and they then ship it back to SK - so you'll only pay for local shipping.
> One (free) way to get an extra warranty that actually works, is to check if one of your credit cards offers one. Mine does (for all purchases in excess of $150), and I'm happy to report that they seem to pay out without much arm-twisting. Your mileage may vary, of course, and it'd be nice if you could ask someone who has first hand experience with that particular card.
> @ElevenEleven @LC155
> No wonder you decided to return them, I know I couldn't live with that kind of flickering either. I hope AW can pluck out the troubled units at their end, now that the issue is known.


wow post ur results with ur monitor xDD thats so good that they have it on amazon now +rep for giving that info out to me







i was going to go out and get like a pre-paid card for
paypal because i dont have a bank account for paypal now i can just ask my friend to order one for me with his CC







 thanks dude i'll order mines this friday and post results later next week~


----------



## Pouleterie

According to my CC company: "Doubles written Canadian manufacturer's warranty of five years or less for up to one year on nearly all goods purchased."

Is there a written warranty that comes with the 27Q that mentions it being valid in Canada?


----------



## LC155

Link to AW's amazon page? Can't seem to find it.


----------



## TheLaggingMan

AccessoriesWhole's page: http://www.amazon.com/gp/browse.html?ie=UTF8&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=A25ZZK6MBWKPB1


----------



## ElevenEleven

Just search Amazon for "Achieva monitor" and you'll find it.


----------



## Nearsite00

Hello there,

Short time lurker, first time poster. Been following this thread very closely for the last few weeks and was going to mention that AW is also on Amazon as well. I plan to order the Crossover P thru the Amazon site. Will keep you posted as well.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Just search Amazon for "Achieva monitor" and you'll find it.


Wonder if they'll appear on amazon UK


----------



## Dabb

Just received mine from BCC. I'm using the DP to dual DVI active adapter on my Llano system (A6-3500 + Asus F1A75-I deluxe with integrated HD6530D graphics).

Here's what I posted on another forum:

As promised, pictures:

A sheet of postage paper over the parcel:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Inside the parcel; plenty of foam padding:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















White background check for stuck/dead pixels:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Black background check for stuck/dead pixels:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IMG]http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5011/p1020508medium.jpg[/IMG]



Setup and running:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















The back:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Stand taken off:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















VESA desk mount arm on:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















On my desk now:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















League of Legends on 1440p:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Notes:
- Packaging: If you order the Crossover, you definitely won't be needing any bubble wrap over the package as BCC has added a lot of foam inside, so you don't have to worry even if the box is punctured.
- Power adapter runs warm but not hot, similar to my power adapter for my PicoPSU. Haven't measured power consumption but I can if someone is really interested but these aren't the most efficient monitors, I think it was something between 50-100W.
- Build quality: No defects on mine, the whole thing seems to be made from metal, even the bezel! I thought the bezel would be plastic but I was proven wrong. The white paint on the back scratches off really easily though as when I was taking out the VESA stand screws it scratched the paint a little.
- Stand: It's better than the Achieva Shimian, but not by much. It does seem to weight a little more and it's even mounted in the VESA mounting holes so the monitor shakes less than the Achieva Shimian, but it does still shake.
- Image/defects: There are no major defects with the image, but it does seem more a bit more yellow than it is white. No dead/stuck pixels or flickering issues at all but there is what seems to be a mark in the lower bottom right hand corner if I look at the screen from the top. It's like there's a pressure mark on the screen but I'm not sure how to take a picture of it, I've tried all that I thought of. It's not really noticeable at all unless I put a whole white screen on and look at it roughly perpendicular from the top; quite weird but I'll accept that as the only defect and leave it there. I think a stuck/dead pixel would bother me more than that.
- Gaming: I don't play any FPS games so I can't comment on lag. I can tell you that I used to play LoL with the lowest shadow settings with about 50-60fps on 1080p but on 1440p, even with shadows off, the game runs on about 40fps.
- Setup: I didn't have to play around with anything, it was literally plug and play for me this time. I simply plugged in the dual link DVI cable into my DP to dual link DVI adapter and turned on my PC and it loaded up at 1440p (Windows 8).

If there are any other questions feel free to ask.

And once again mods, if you feel this belongs in "Monitor" or "Hardware", feel free to move it. Or I could repost this post there?

EDIT: Forgot to add the price; It's listed on eBay for $359.99 but I made an offer of $349.99 and it was accepted. I had to pay a total of £10.79 to DHL but they didn't send an invoice or anything so I can't actually see what I paid for VAT and what I paid for admin/handling charges. It seems the price has now gone up to $389.99.

EDIT2: To reduce the yellow levels, I reduced red and green as that forms yellow AFAIK (in RGB colours), seems to have done the trick but I think there's a bit of a yellow tint near the bottom of my screen, it's a bit hard to tell though because if I sit up a bit then the top looks the same as the bottom in terms of whiteness/yellowness. I think the way I've set the monitor up should be optimal though.

If you do order just remember that these aren't the top quality A+ or whatever panels, there's going to be some form of defect or another I guess. I'll take it that the defect with mine is the slight pressure mark and yellow tinting near the bottom.


----------



## Vowels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> VESA desk mount arm on:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ohhh a matching white VESA mount. Could you link me to where you bought that?


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vowels*
> 
> Ohhh a matching white VESA mount. Could you link me to where you bought that?


Unfortunately I'm from the UK but it's called "CMD WHITE Vision Flat Screen LCD Monitor Arm Desk Clamp". I bought it from an eBay seller and he was the only one who sold it.


----------



## Pouleterie

Ugh. So an update for people that might want to know, from Quebec, we're pretty much screwed out of every extra warranty option I could think of. Credit card warranty needs a written Canadian warranty(there's none included according to AW himself), SquareTrade doesn't work in Quebec, and pretty much every other warranty companies require the same as my CC. So if I do take the plunge, it's only warrantied for one year... Not so sure I want to buy three anymore. I think I'll just get one. If it breaks within a year so be it, but if any or all three of them were to pop in a year I'm not sure I'd be too pleased.

Not too sure about what I want to do.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pouleterie*
> 
> Ugh. So an update for people that might want to know, from Quebec, we're pretty much screwed out of every extra warranty option I could think of. Credit card warranty needs a written Canadian warranty(there's none included according to AW himself), SquareTrade doesn't work in Quebec, and pretty much every other warranty companies require the same as my CC. So if I do take the plunge, it's only warrantied for one year... Not so sure I want to buy three anymore. I think I'll just get one. If it breaks within a year so be it, but if any or all three of them were to pop in a year I'm not sure I'd be too pleased.
> Not too sure about what I want to do.


Russian roulette anyone?

IMO it's too much money to gamble w/. But I'm a college student, so...


----------



## Cup0Noodles

I received my "pixel perfect" CrossOver from AccessoriesWhole and I am blown away by the quality of the monitor! No dead pixels, backlight bleed, perfect color!. It feel that it was worth the extra hundred to go with the higher quality version.

I definitely recommend AW as a seller. The monitor arrived VERY quickly, was packed well and AW provided excellent customer service and was very quick replies to all of my messages.

After using my monitor for a few days, I went down to the AppleStore to compare against the 27" Apple Cinema Display. As far as I can tell...identical in picture quality. That said, I am now confused as to how these "pixel perfect" monitors are still considered to be "reject" LG panels that Apple did not want...isn't that the whole premise of why these Korean monitors exist in the 1st place? From AW's ebay listing "Sole 100% perfect pixel panel achieved and produced from 50 out of 1500 (about 3% of its production) panels." If there's no issues with dead/stuck pixels, does that mean that there is still something wrong with the "pixel perfect" monitors...something maybe that I can't identify without the proper tools?

Anyways, very happy with my monitor, but was just curious if anyone had any insight on what could still be potentially wrong with my monitor.


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Forgot to ask....does anyone know the sugar cube trick will work to remove the Crossover logo?

http://lifehacker.com/244294/macgyver-tip--de+logo-your-cell-phone-with-a-sugar-cube


----------



## LC155

Ahhhhhh

Nobody knows what the panel grading system means. The best guess is how close the calibrate to 6500k which is why the big players would want them. Based on empirical evidence, there is nothing to suggest they have no faults... because they DO.

Now, do you notice the flickering issue that was discussed a while ago?


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cup0Noodles*
> 
> I received my "pixel perfect" CrossOver from AccessoriesWhole and I am blown away by the quality of the monitor! No dead pixels, backlight bleed, perfect color!. It feel that it was worth the extra hundred to go with the higher quality version.
> I definitely recommend AW as a seller. The monitor arrived VERY quickly, was packed well and AW provided excellent customer service and was very quick replies to all of my messages.
> After using my monitor for a few days, I went down to the AppleStore to compare against the 27" Apple Cinema Display. *As far as I can tell...identical in picture quality. That said, I am now confused as to how these "pixel perfect" monitors are still considered to be "reject" LG panels that Apple did not want*...isn't that the whole premise of why these Korean monitors exist in the 1st place? From AW's ebay listing "Sole 100% perfect pixel panel achieved and produced from 50 out of 1500 (about 3% of its production) panels." If there's no issues with dead/stuck pixels, does that mean that there is still something wrong with the "pixel perfect" monitors...something maybe that I can't identify without the proper tools?
> Anyways, very happy with my monitor, but was just curious if anyone had any insight on what could still be potentially wrong with my monitor.


My thoughts also. What probably happens is that there is a statistical analyses by batch and when a batch is rejected, not all of the panels are substandard for the A+ rating. Also explains the odd bad Apple, HP, etc monitor. I purchased a pixel Perfect ShiMian Lite and it appears superb.


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Ahhhhhh
> Nobody knows what the panel grading system means. The best guess is how close the calibrate to 6500k which is why the big players would want them. Based on empirical evidence, there is nothing to suggest they have no faults... because they DO.
> Now, do you notice the flickering issue that was discussed a while ago?


No, no flickering issue. As far as my naked eye can see, this is a perfect monitor identical to the display model Apple Cinema display 27".


----------



## De-Zant

I also happen to have no visible flickering issues at any brightness level on my LED-P.


----------



## xtrad3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cup0Noodles*
> 
> I received my "pixel perfect" CrossOver from AccessoriesWhole and I am blown away by the quality of the monitor! No dead pixels, backlight bleed, perfect color!. It feel that it was worth the extra hundred to go with the higher quality version.


Man, I wish I did this from the get go...

Anyways, here is a update from my situation: the 27Q with 3 dead pixels is on the way back to Korea for a replacement... I will shell out another $100 for a perefect pixel one. AW is covering the shipping charges.

I would have saved my self a lot of hassle and nerves by ordering a perfect pixel 27Q from the get go. Thats my humble recommendation to all perspective Crossover buyers.


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> My thoughts also. What probably happens is that there is a statistical analyses by batch and when a batch is rejected, not all of the panels are substandard for the A+ rating. Also explains the odd bad Apple, HP, etc monitor. I purchased a pixel Perfect ShiMian Lite and it appears superb.


I think this makes the most sense...basically a spot check on a run of screens. If enough screens are identified as flawed, the entire run is rejected.


----------



## Polarity

is everyone using the stock power adapter or u guys went out and got ur own?


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> is everyone using the stock power adapter or u guys went out and got ur own?


Idk what I'm going to do yet either... I've got a Shimian-lite on it's way.. The stock power adapter for it is rated like this:

Input: AC 230V ~50/*60Hz* 1.2A
Output: DC 24.0V - 5.0A

So I'm thinking it can run at 60hz too (which is the US standard..), but a normal adapter would say this:

Input: *100*-240v ~1.5A 50-60Hz

I'm gonna have to find a friend with a meter and measure it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

You can run the higher-voltage-rated stock Nanjing Frontek adapter for a while without issues, but it's been reported to die after a few months of use on 110V, all of a sudden with no prior symptoms.


----------



## LC155

Well, based on how the flickering issues seem to be done now, I think I'm gonna order my second PP Crossover whilst returning my first.

Shipping that thing back was such a hassle. Made sure to grab some extra Air Waybill's from the courier just in case.


----------



## elite2048

Been lurking here for awhile so I finally decided to join this site.

Can someone confirm whether or not the 2720MDP outputs audio passed through the displayport connector? Much appreciated!


----------



## TarballX

So I've been using my Crossover for about 5 days now. Still haven't found any dead pixels, though there are one are two spots of what look like small specks of dust. Whether you see them or not depends on what angle you look at the screen from.
The biggest issue I've found is that there is a band of about 1/4th of the monitor that's yellower than the rest. It's slightly to the right of the center of the screen. Not noticeable in games, but it is noticeable on white screens. Still haven't noticed any flickering though.

Edit: Turning down red and green in the Nvidia control panel like someone suggested earlier in the thread does help. Doesn't eliminate it, but makes it much less noticeable.


----------



## Fatt

My crossover from bigclothcraft came with a welltronics 110v-240v adapter, but man it runs really hot. So hot I'm actually started to get worried about it failing, my buddy with the same monitor and adapter runs just as hot. It's only rated for 5amps, and I think this monitor is just really inefficient and is pushing the adapter past it's rated limit. But all the other adapters I've seen for sale are also rated at 5a. I just hope it has a fuse or some protection circuitry, so when it fails it doesn't take my monitor with it.


----------



## Wiz33

I have the same PSU for my Catleap Q270 at the office and while it's warm to the touch, it certainly is not hot ( i actually have it on the desk and not sitting on carpet). I also have the Crossover 2720MDP at home, I'll check that when I get back.

Edit: Got home and the PSU on the crossover is actually cool to the touch as the PC is in sleep mode and the Mon is off. Now it's 30 mins later and the PSU is just warm like the one at the office ( I also have this on the desk rather than floor).


----------



## elite2048

Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the 2720MDP from red-cap. Can't wait for it to arrive!


----------



## Polarity

does anyone know if dream-seller has the adapter included? if so ima just go with him.....


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fatt*
> 
> My crossover from bigclothcraft came with a welltronics 110v-240v adapter, but man it runs really hot. So hot I'm actually started to get worried about it failing, my buddy with the same monitor and adapter runs just as hot. It's only rated for 5amps, and I think this monitor is just really inefficient and is pushing the adapter past it's rated limit. But all the other adapters I've seen for sale are also rated at 5a. I just hope it has a fuse or some protection circuitry, so when it fails it doesn't take my monitor with it.


How fast and what is the custom fee from this seller "bigclothcraft"?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> does anyone know if dream-seller has the adapter included? if so ima just go with him.....


I'm looking into this as well. I assume 110v-240v is fine to use in US/Canada? I'm not that expert at electrical specifications. I'm just an artist...









"green-sum" seller is also selling the Crossover 27Q privot. So... who is the recommended seller so far?


----------



## Fatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> How fast and what is the custom fee from this seller "bigclothcraft"?


Well I got unlucky when I ordered, and there were two korean holidays that delayed BCC from shipping, then the other delayed the actual shipment. Still was less than a week though. I never paid any customs fees either, and being that the monitor is coming from south korean you technically don't have to pay any customs fees.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> I have the same PSU for my Catleap Q270 at the office and while it's warm to the touch, it certainly is not hot ( i actually have it on the desk and not sitting on carpet). I also have the Crossover 2720MDP at home, I'll check that when I get back.
> Edit: Got home and the PSU on the crossover is actually cool to the touch as the PC is in sleep mode and the Mon is off. Now it's 30 mins later and the PSU is just warm like the one at the office ( I also have this on the desk rather than floor).


I think what your calling warm, is what I'm calling hot. It takes several hours of constant operation for it fully heat up. While no it's not "hot" to the touch, it's a bit warmer than it should be at normal operation. Also my ambient temps are fairly low, around 21c. Obviously when the monitor has been off, the PSU is not going to be warm. And the PSU cools relatively quickly after the monitor goes to sleep. It hard to be accurate when using subjective terms such as hot or warm, but I definitely feel both my friend's PSU and mine are running a bit warmer than they should be, and I wouldn't be surprised if these monitors were drawing 5amps or more. These are cheap PSUs, I'm scared to even open it only to find your average Chinese dangerously minimalistic design. Would be surprised to even find it uses a fiberglass PCB and has remotely safe clearances incorporated into the PCB.


----------



## LC155

When I had my crossover, the PSU just felt cosy to the touch, not uncomfortably warm at all.

As for recommended sellers, BCC and AW. The latter is expanding their business outside of ebay, onto places like Amazon.


----------



## Gav47

Hi guys, I've lurked this thread pretty extensively but I haven't seen anyone with the same problem as me and I was wondering if anyone had any insight.

I got my Crossover 27Q the other day and I'm having a weird problem with it. When I start up a game the screen will turn on and off rapidly for about 30 secs to 1 min before completely turning itself off and the LED on the side will flash red. This will also happen sporadically when watching videos.
This will persist even if I exit the game or close the video and the only way I've found to stop it is to lower the resolution to 1080p and then set it back to 1440 using the Nvidia control panel.
It always happens when the game uses 3d graphics, for example if I start PixelJunk Eden, a 2d game, it will take a couple of minutes for it to happen but when I start Max Payne 3 it happens right as I reach the menu screen which has a rendering of Max on right hand side. I've made sure the DVI cable is properly seated in both monitor and gfx card.
The screen itself is fine, no dead or stuck pixels.

Anyone ever have these problems with another monitor? Could it be a power problem, DVI-D cable problem or is my monitor just boned?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Don't forget that current is voltage divided by resistance (I=V/R, Ohm's law), which means that to have the same current draw at a lower 110V is going to increase resistance and therefore temperature. These bricks will run cooler in Europe and warmer in the US. If you don't run your monitor at max brightness, it's going to help the brick temperature. I'm not saying these bricks are great, just that there's going to be a difference in experiences between 240V users and 120V users and similar.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gav47*
> 
> Hi guys, I've lurked this thread pretty extensively but I haven't seen anyone with the same problem as me and I was wondering if anyone had any insight.
> I got my Crossover 27Q the other day and I'm having a weird problem with it. When I start up a game the screen will turn on and off rapidly for about 30 secs to 1 min before completely turning itself off and the LED on the side will flash red. This will also happen sporadically when watching videos.
> This will persist even if I exit the game or close the video and the only way I've found to stop it is to lower the resolution to 1080p and then set it back to 1440 using the Nvidia control panel.
> It always happens when the game uses 3d graphics, for example if I start PixelJunk Eden, a 2d game, it will take a couple of minutes for it to happen but when I start Max Payne 3 it happens right as I reach the menu screen which has a rendering of Max on right hand side. I've made sure the DVI cable is properly seated in both monitor and gfx card.
> The screen itself is fine, no dead or stuck pixels.
> Anyone ever have these problems with another monitor? Could it be a power problem, DVI-D cable problem or is my monitor just boned?


If it only happens when gaming and watching movies, the only thing I could think of is a HDCP handshake issue, which would be weird for these monitors.


----------



## Polarity

jesus christ every time i log into OCN and come here there is always a problem with the crossover monitors ... X_X this makes me wanna go to shimian...


----------



## LC155

Same internals, same panel, same PCB.

You're probably focusing on the faults of the crossover too much since you seem to really want one.


----------



## Gav47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> jesus christ every time i log into OCN and come here there is always a problem with the crossover monitors ... X_X this makes me wanna go to shimian...


Thats funny, I was actually warned off buying a Shmian because some users were experiencing light bleed from the LED indicator, that and poor build quality.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> If it only happens when gaming and watching movies, the only thing I could think of is a HDCP handshake issue, which would be weird for these monitors.


The videos I was talking about were actually just youtube videos, I'm not sure if they use HDCP.

Just got an email by from my seller, he thinks its a problem with the power supply and is sending me another unit.

Do displays use more power when displaying 3d graphics? Or perhaps when they're displaying more frames?


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gav47*
> 
> Thats funny, I was actually warned off buying a Shmian because some users were experiencing light bleed from the LED indicator, that and poor build quality.
> The videos I was talking about were actually just youtube videos, I'm not sure if they use HDCP.
> Just got an email by from my seller, he thinks its a problem with the power supply and is sending me another unit.
> Do displays use more power when displaying 3d graphics? Or perhaps when they're displaying more frames?


Poor build quality? That IMO is the catleaps. (they lean right)

And all of these A/A- Korean monitors can come with light bleed. (That's why they're not A+ displays)


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gav47*
> 
> Thats funny, I was actually warned off buying a Shmian because some users were experiencing light bleed from the LED indicator, that and poor build quality.
> The videos I was talking about were actually just youtube videos, I'm not sure if they use HDCP.
> Just got an email by from my seller, he thinks its a problem with the power supply and is sending me another unit.
> Do displays use more power when displaying 3d graphics? Or perhaps when they're displaying more frames?


Neither of my 2 ShiMians have any discernable light bleed, but my CrossOver did, including the power button area. I don't know about lower build quality, it's been good so far, but maybe I just got lucky. I actually see fewer fault reports in the ShiMian thread lately than CrossOver, PCBank, and Catleap threads.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Neither of my 2 ShiMians have any discernable light bleed, but my CrossOver did, including the power button area. I don't know about lower build quality, it's been good so far, but maybe I just got lucky. I actually see fewer fault reports in the ShiMian thread lately than CrossOver, PCBank, and Catleap threads.


^ this

It's the reason I bought a shimian. (and because it was so cheap..)


----------



## jsmoother2012

I too purchased a ShiMian Lite, admittedly a 'pixel perfect one' and see NO problems. Just tried it out with this http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php and everything looked great. With regards to build quality, what exactly is the problem?


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> I too purchased a ShiMian Lite, admittedly a 'pixel perfect one' and see NO problems. Just tried it out with this http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php and everything looked great. With regards to build quality, what exactly is the problem?


Some ppl think the stand isn't super sturdy..


----------



## Cup0Noodles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CpHaAiOnS*
> 
> Poor build quality? That IMO is the catleaps. (they lean right)
> And all of these A/A- Korean monitors can come with light bleed. (That's why they're not A+ displays)


Neither of the pixel perfect Crossover monitors I purchased from AW had any lightbleed, dead/stuck pixels or flickering issues. Color is also spot on.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cup0Noodles*
> 
> Neither of the pixel perfect Crossover monitors I purchased from AW had any lightbleed, dead/stuck pixels or flickering issues. Color is also spot on.


Good for you!


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cup0Noodles*
> 
> Neither of the pixel perfect Crossover monitors I purchased from AW had any lightbleed, dead/stuck pixels or flickering issues. Color is also spot on.


Nice. I wasn't as lucky, but the CS from AW is absolutely brilliant.

By the way, light bleed comes from the backlight seeping around the panel. Pretty sure bleed has nothing to do with the panel quality, just how 'snug' it is in letting light past it. (You can usually reduce backlight bleed by massaging the panel for example, or covering the outer edges of it with black electrical tape). For this reason bleed can still be a serious issue with the 'big name' brands.

All in all, imo, panel quality is a myth. (At least with the A quality ones)


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

^ I agree. All the A's should be solid


----------



## Polarity

okay i just made an offer to BCC for 350 for the crossover 27Q LED :/ he price it at 390 anyone think he will do it? if not ima just try to get 27$ mroe and go with AW -,-


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> okay i just made an offer to BCC for 350 for the crossover 27Q LED :/ he price it at 390 anyone think he will do it? if not ima just try to get 27$ mroe and go with AW -,-


I mean... gaming 6850 on 1440p is gonna be kinda rough anyways... (and I doubt he'd drop that low)


----------



## elite2048

From personal experience (as well as from other posters who shared), I think the lowest price sellers will accept is around $14-$15 below listing, though you can definitely go lower if purchasing 2 or more monitors.


----------



## Polarity

X_X than ima just try to get 27 more for Aw does anyone know why he raised it 30$ more O_O it was like 360 for the longest then he just like 390* :/ but i should have begged/borrow money when AW didnt had perfect pixel i would be so happy atm


----------



## LC155

Did this thread have pictures of the 2720MDP gold posted somewhere? Thinking about getting that DGM 27" which is a rebrand of the 2720MDP and wanted to see how it looked in pictures.


----------



## Qu1ckset

i was looking at the crossover, red-cap has the pivot one for $389USD , i like the stand on the crossover better, but red-cap also has the shimian "PERFECT PIXEL" for $359USD cant decide...

also is red-cap still a good seller?


----------



## MontyAC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i was looking at the crossover, red-cap has the pivot one for $389USD , i like the stand on the crossover better, but red-cap also has the shimian "PERFECT PIXEL" for $359USD cant decide...
> also is red-cap still a good seller?


Red-cap is an excellent seller. All the Korean eBayer's have outstanding ratings.


----------



## Qu1ckset

After watching youtubes videos on the crossover, i decided i don't care for the pivot feature, how good is the non pivot stand on the crossover, and how many dead pixels has people been getting lately??
i dont know why the crossover perfect pixels cost so much more then shimian perfect pixels..


----------



## danyyyel

I have seen Red-cap who advertise (Tested) monitor for $ 369. I don't know why people prefer the costlier by nearly $ 100 from AW. Is it not better to have the seller open the box and check the monitor before sending it, than waiting for it to be shipped to see if it has any problem. Is it not a much bigger hassle, more so that it is as if you are already paying for the shipping in the AW price.

I am not in any way dishing AW, because they seem to be very good aftersale services. But if the other seller are also good, I would like to know why you nearly don't hear about them here. I saw that BCC also offer the tested service.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danyyyel*
> 
> I have seen Red-cap who advertise (Tested) monitor for $ 369. I don't know why people prefer the costlier by nearly $ 100 from AW. Is it not better to have the seller open the box and check the monitor before sending it, than waiting for it to be shipped to see if it has any problem. Is it not a much bigger hassle, more so that it is as if you are already paying for the shipping in the AW price.
> I am not in any way dishing AW, because they seem to be very good aftersale services. But if the other seller are also good, I would like to know why you nearly don't hear about them here. I saw that BCC also offer the tested service.


What does red-cap do if you order a perfect pixel monitor and you end up with defective pixels anyway? The great part about AW is they'll let you ship the monitor back, and the cost is billed to their Fedex account, paying that extra for peace of mind is worth it, imo.

Also, AW opens the boxes and tests the monitors too with their PPs.

Finally, the crossover is more expensive than the Shimian because the entire outer casing is completely metal.


----------



## LC155

Did a quick search of the thread, but couldn't find much - has anyone got pictures of their 2720MDP? I want to see how it looks in person as I'm ready to pull the trigger on the UK DGM version sold through OCUK (A+ panel as part of the negotiation plus 3 year warranty). It lacks the scalar of the gold and some of the inputs, but has the same chassis. Only got a few hours left to pre order it at £320 so I'm desperate.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Did this thread have pictures of the 2720MDP gold posted somewhere? Thinking about getting that DGM 27" which is a rebrand of the 2720MDP and wanted to see how it looked in pictures.


I posted some see post #1262

I'm happy with my purchase but OCUK have these on pre order as mentioned a few post back and I would have Proberly held out knowing they will be in the UK with a three year warranty.


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overrobin*
> 
> I've purchased my new monitor from Accessorieswhole.
> Immediately when the Accessorieswhole listed perfect pixel monitor, but I had communication beforehand,
> I've got discounted price; direct payment.
> I purchased 2720mdp perfect pixel monitor on June 4th and guess what? 1 day delivery~
> What a freaking service they do! I bet it was the fastest delivery ever.
> Right now, I'm with ma perfectly BEAUTIFUL monitor and as Accessorieswhole mentioned,
> it was quite nice to see "Perfect pixel monitor" label on the box, even it was written in Korean,
> because of this label, I feel more satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even more, I have to say, their CS service is fantastic.
> I had no hassle to ask any questions and reply. Compare to others, it's just AWESOME!!!!
> Don't they warranty return and replacement for free?
> What do you expect more?
> Comparing with HP ZR2740w, which the lowest price is for what. $950?
> I don't know.. it seems like David and Goliath? lol
> Kind enoughly, Accessorieswhole downsized its product value as $200 and declared it as "sample".
> personally, I think they deserve more than what they provide.


I really think there are a few accounts here created by people from AccessoriesHole to pimp their products. $950? Are you kidding me?
http://www.amazon.com/HP-ZR2740w-27-inch-Backlit-Monitor/dp/B005MR4P0W
Try $684

Anyway, I bought the Catleap for $350, it came with no tint, no dead pixels, no stuck pixels, and I checked very thoroughly. Why are people paying over $100 more for a metal casing? Also, you can get great stands for less money than you are paying for these monitors. I just don't see the value.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> I posted some see post #1262
> I'm happy with my purchase but OCUK have these on pre order as mentioned a few post back and I would have Proberly held out knowing they will be in the UK with a three year warranty.


Hmm, the back looks nice, although it's hard to tell the front from those pics. What do you think of it?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer*
> 
> I really think there are a few accounts here created by people from AccessoriesHole to pimp their products. $950? Are you kidding me?
> http://www.amazon.com/HP-ZR2740w-27-inch-Backlit-Monitor/dp/B005MR4P0W
> Try $684
> Anyway, I bought the Catleap for $350, it came with no tint, no dead pixels, no stuck pixels, and I checked very thoroughly. Why are people paying over $100 more for a metal casing? Also, you can get great stands for less money than you are paying for these monitors. I just don't see the value.


Because metal and the stand. I love a good construction, myself.


----------



## Maelstrom3

Received my dual Crossover LED-Ps on Friday. I bought the pixel perfect from AccessoriesWhole. Had a LAN over the weekend so I put them through their paces.

Flawless screens. No blue tint. No flicker. No dead or bright pixels.

These screens are far more heavy than my previous ASUS VE246H and the stands are extremely sturdy. Great quality stands - worth the premium IMO.

I live in Australia and I'm using the power bricks and all cables that came with the monitors.

Once I get a bigger desk I'll definitely pick up a third of these from AW.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maelstrom3*
> 
> Received my dual Crossover LED-Ps on Friday. I bought the pixel perfect from AccessoriesWhole. Had a LAN over the weekend so I put them through their paces.
> 
> Flawless screens. No blue tint. No flicker. No dead or bright pixels.
> 
> These screens are far more heavy than my previous ASUS VE246H and the stands are extremely sturdy. Great quality stands - worth the premium IMO.
> 
> I live in Australia and I'm using the power bricks and all cables that came with the monitors.
> 
> Once I get a bigger desk I'll definitely pick up a third of these from AW.


Not heavier than mine for sure.


----------



## deftonesmw

I asked AW about the flicker issue and their return policy, here's the reply:

Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.

Yes, we fully acknowledged on the flickering issues and we take special attention on it.
We will make it sure to not send monitors with defect/default/DOA/ flickering.

We are a responsible seller and there should be no worries to trust us.

we provide 1 year warranty,
it covers, within 30 days from your purchase, if monitor has defect/default, it may refund/replaced be on us.
After the 30 days from your purchase, since you live in USA, you may pay shipping charge to our warehouse in LA.
From the warehouse in LA to Korea, Korea to your house will be charged on us.

Sincerely

- accessorieswhole


----------



## danyyyel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> What does red-cap do if you order a perfect pixel monitor and you end up with defective pixels anyway? The great part about AW is they'll let you ship the monitor back, and the cost is billed to their Fedex account, paying that extra for peace of mind is worth it, imo.
> Also, AW opens the boxes and tests the monitors too with their PPs.
> Finally, the crossover is more expensive than the Shimian because the entire outer casing is completely metal.


Where is it stated, I see a lot of problem here lately and most if not all are buying from AW. All the sellers accept return for the shipping cost about $ 100 and it is about the same that AW ask more for its monitor. It is good to have very good after-sale services, but I would prefer to have a good monitor in the first place. I am not saying that BCC or Red-cap are better, but the price is much lower for a crossover monitor and they (at lest BCC) have very good feedback on ebay or even here in other monitor thread. This seems to be a new service to have tested unit before shipping and I think it is a good.

I prefer to make competition work between vendors, than just blindly encourage only one seller where price go up and service can go down. On the other monitor thread you see much more vendors like BCC and green sum etc that have very good feedback. So why not here, I am not interested to pay more if competition can make pay less.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danyyyel*
> 
> Where is it stated, I see a lot of problem here lately and most if not all are buying from AW. All the sellers accept return for the shipping cost about $ 100 and it is about the same that AW ask more for its monitor. It is good to have very good after-sale services, but I would prefer to have a good monitor in the first place. I am not saying that BCC or Red-cap are better, but the price is much lower for a crossover monitor and they (at lest BCC) have very good feedback on ebay or even here in other monitor thread. This seems to be a new service to have tested unit before shipping and I think it is a good.
> I prefer to make competition work between vendors, than just blindly encourage only one seller where price go up and service can go down. On the other monitor thread you see much more vendors like BCC and green sum etc that have very good feedback. So why not here, I am not interested to pay more if competition can make pay less.


im going with redcap next weekend, he is the cheapest at the moment


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danyyyel*
> 
> Where is it stated, I see a lot of problem here lately and most if not all are buying from AW. All the sellers accept return for the shipping cost about $ 100 and it is about the same that AW ask more for its monitor. It is good to have very good after-sale services, but I would prefer to have a good monitor in the first place. I am not saying that BCC or Red-cap are better, but the price is much lower for a crossover monitor and they (at lest BCC) have very good feedback on ebay or even here in other monitor thread. This seems to be a new service to have tested unit before shipping and I think it is a good.
> I prefer to make competition work between vendors, than just blindly encourage only one seller where price go up and service can go down. On the other monitor thread you see much more vendors like BCC and green sum etc that have very good feedback. So why not here, I am not interested to pay more if competition can make pay less.


I live in the UK. Shipping to Korea is HIDEOUSLY expensive, and I save a lot of money by going with AW if I need to return it, so that's my reasoning.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Some sellers make you pay return shipping and then reimburse (hopefully) and others actually cover return shipping. Because I've personally had a faulty monitor that needed to be returned to Korea, I certainly appreciated not having to pay a lot of money to send it from the U.S. You can go by the statistics and expect the most likely case of not having significant problems, but if you really don't want to spend money on shipping if something does go wrong, then your choices of sellers quickly narrow down.


----------



## chon

Loving my Crossover







finally had the chance to use it today on my new rig, and it has no light bleed or dead pixals.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chon*
> 
> Loving my Crossover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally had the chance to use it today on my new rig, and it has no light bleed or dead pixals.


Which seller did you bought it from?


----------



## doco

so i am currently looking at the CrossOver 2720MDP from red-cap (since he provides a free 110v power brick) but this topic made about the 2720MDP has bad impressions due to prad.de

http://www.overclock.net/t/1243709/crossover-2720mdp-gold-led-first-korean-model-with-displayport-available/50

did prad.de really get a bad batch for this review? and does BCC or red-cap carry the latest revisions?


----------



## Gav47

Got my new power brick and thankfully everything works fine now. Calibrated the display the best I could, it had a little bit of green dominance out of the box.

Oh and if anyone wants to see some 1440p video I found this little trailer


----------



## Nearsite00

Hello everyone I got my Crossover monitor yesterday. Here's my review on HardOCP. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1675393&page=151


----------



## Elsinore

I received my Crossover 27q from BCC three weeks ago. I thought it had one dead pixel, but I tapped on it with a sharpie cap and it went away, so it seems that it was only stuck. Overall, I'm happy enough with the purchase that I'd like to buy a 2nd Crossover to mount on:

http://www.amazon.com/Mount-It-Articulating-Computer-Monitor-monitors/dp/B0052AWGLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341336071&sr=8-1&keywords=27%22+mount+monitor

I'm thinking of the 2720mdp so I can plug my Macbook Pro in without an expensive minidisplayport -> DVI-D adapter. Has anyone taken the stand off the 2720mdp and mounted it? This thread has me nervous about it:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1266468/removing-the-base-of-2720mdp

Thanks for all the help, its much appreciated!


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cup0Noodles*
> 
> Forgot to ask....does anyone know the sugar cube trick will work to remove the Crossover logo?
> http://lifehacker.com/244294/macgyver-tip--de+logo-your-cell-phone-with-a-sugar-cube


The logo comes off the metal bezel on the 27Q LED and 27Q LED-P quite easily.

I was in too much of a rush, used a metal PCI slot cover that was handy and took the logo off in about 10 seconds. This left light scratches, which have polished out, but which have left a thumbprint sized area where the paint has worn thin and looks slightly purple (white undercoat showing through).

I would suggest the edge of a credit card might work better than a sugar cube. Hold the card at 30 to 45 degrees from the edge of the logo and make repeated, short, sharp jabs. The paint will come off like a scratchcard!


----------



## mrrame

Just use your sunscreen or sunblock cream.

no more scratches

http://mrrame.blogspot.com/2012/07/how-to-remove-company-logo.html


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> so i am currently looking at the CrossOver 2720MDP from red-cap (since he provides a free 110v power brick) but this topic made about the 2720MDP has bad impressions due to prad.de
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1243709/crossover-2720mdp-gold-led-first-korean-model-with-displayport-available/50
> did prad.de really get a bad batch for this review? and does BCC or red-cap carry the latest revisions?


I got a 2720MDP Pivot from BCC a few weeks ago and it's working great. Drop the green by about 10pt and it's fine.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Posted this on the ShiMian page, but might be of interest here.

I have a strange effect on my ShiMian Lite model (pixel perfect).

Got it last week and was praising the quality, but noticed a stuck green dot yesterday. The very odd part is that it's less than a pixel. I found it on a black screen. It was *extremely* faint, barely noticeable. Putting up an all red screen and using a magnifier, I noticed the green dot as being about 30% the area of the lit adjacent red sub-pixel. It also had an irregular shape unlike the lit red which has a vertical, sharply defined, rectangular shape.
Anyone has a clue as to what is happening?

All other aspects of the monitor are excellent.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> Posted this on the ShiMian page, but might be of interest here.
> I have a strange effect on my ShiMian Lite model (pixel perfect).
> Got it last week and was praising the quality, but noticed a stuck green dot yesterday. The very odd part is that it's less than a pixel. I found it on a black screen. It was *extremely* faint, barely noticeable. Putting up an all red screen and using a magnifier, I noticed the green dot as being about 30% the area of the lit adjacent red sub-pixel. It also had an irregular shape unlike the lit red which has a vertical, sharply defined, rectangular shape.
> Anyone has a clue as to what is happening?
> All other aspects of the monitor are excellent.


That's some extreme nitpicking!


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> That's some extreme nitpicking!


I am being misunderstood. Just trying to understand the possible cause. Technically curious.


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> I am being misunderstood. Just trying to understand the possible cause. Technically curious.


It's a stuck green sub-pixel. I have 1 too.


----------



## CrispyBread

Man, I really love the housing for the panels of this monitor. And from what I understand the VESA mounts are exposed so you don't have to disassemble like the Yamakasi's.
Maybe once I convince myself, I can sell my Catleap's and get these







.


----------



## Stoof

I got the 27Q LED-P today and when I plug it in and turn it on the power light in the bottom right corner turns blue then immediately switches to red. I don't have a computer to test with it yet because I'm building one and won't have everything till Thursday, so I can't confirm if it's just because I don't have a computer connected or because something is wrong. I may be worrying for nothing and just asking a stupid question, but I've never invested this much money into something like this before so I just wanted to be sure.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoof*
> 
> I got the 27Q LED-P today and when I plug it in and turn it on the power light in the bottom right corner turns blue then immediately switches to red. I don't have a computer to test with it yet because I'm building one and won't have everything till Thursday, so I can't confirm if it's just because I don't have a computer connected or because something is wrong. I may be worrying for nothing and just asking a stupid question, but I've never invested this much money into something like this before so I just wanted to be sure.


That's normal - it needs an input. It will stay blue with a signal from a GPU and red at all other times (plugged in).


----------



## Stoof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> That's normal - it needs an input. It will stay blue with a signal from a GPU and red at all other times (plugged in).


I figured, but just wanted to double check. Thanks!


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> It's a stuck green sub-pixel. I have 1 too.


A sub pixel means either the red, green or blue part of a pixel. What is part of a sub pixel called?

Only part of my green sub pixel (30%) is stuck. Is that the same in your case?

How can only a piece be stuck?


----------



## djriful

I've just ordered mine from green-sum.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> so i am currently looking at the CrossOver 2720MDP from red-cap (since he provides a free 110v power brick) but this topic made about the 2720MDP has bad impressions due to prad.de
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1243709/crossover-2720mdp-gold-led-first-korean-model-with-displayport-available/50
> did prad.de really get a bad batch for this review? and does BCC or red-cap carry the latest revisions?


I contacted BCC and red-cap before buying and they both claim that it is the revised version. I haven't received my monitor yet though...


----------



## gumbie

Just ordered my Crossover 27Q LED-P from bigclothcraft

Fingers crossed it's a decent one!


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> A sub pixel means either the red, green or blue part of a pixel. What is part of a sub pixel called?
> Only part of my green sub pixel (30%) is stuck. Is that the same in your case?
> How can only a piece be stuck?


Google "Partial sub pixel failure".

I haven't looked closely, but it's the size of a speck of dust and only noticeable on a black background if looking for it.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> Google "Partial sub pixel failure".
> I haven't looked closely, but it's the size of a speck of dust and only noticeable on a black background if looking for it.


I guess we have the same issue. Google helped and this apparently cannot be fixed. Not a problem for me really, as it's so faint.


----------



## TarballX

Question for those with the non-pivot model.. Does the vertical part of the stand on your monitor go perfectly vertical, like shown in this picture? Mine leans forward.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Question for those with the non-pivot model.. Does the vertical part of the stand on your monitor go perfectly vertical, like shown in this picture? Mine leans forward.


i would love to know this answer as well because im about to order one tomorrow, can you please post a pic of how bad it leans, and is there nothing to tighten to make it stay lever?

and i seen a link posted in this thread or the thread for the shimian or catleaps to test for dead or stuck pixels but cant seem to find it now, can someone post it please?


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> i would love to know this answer as well because im about to order one tomorrow, can you please post a pic of how bad it leans, and is there nothing to tighten to make it stay lever?
> and i seen a link posted in this thread or the thread for the shimian or catleaps to test for dead or stuck pixels but cant seem to find it now, can someone post it please?


This? http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> This? http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


yup exactly what i was looking for!







+1 Rep


----------



## Qu1ckset

Just ordered my non-pivit crossover for $350USD from red-cap hope to see her early next week!


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Question for those with the non-pivot model.. Does the vertical part of the stand on your monitor go perfectly vertical, like shown in this picture? Mine leans forward.


Yo TarbellX-

Mine goes even a bit more towards the rear at the bottom of the screen = \ (exaggerated)

It's tight and takes two people (one holding - one pushing)

Mike


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> yup exactly what i was looking for!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 Rep


You might like using this page also. http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/contrast.php


----------



## TarballX

Here's a picture of the "stand lean", which, now that I look at it again, really just seems to be the design of the stand, and not an actual flaw. The white part is hard plastic so I don't see how it could have bent in transit or anything. It's just not quite what's pictured in the seller's description.


----------



## djriful

Have you try to bend it back? It might have been leaning or bending over time. The monitor is indeed heavy.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Have you try to bend it back? It might have been leaning or bending over time. The monitor is indeed heavy.


I've tried pulling it back a little, but as I said, it seems to be pretty solid plastic. I don't see how it would move that much without cracking. That's why I was hoping someone else with this monitor could take a picture of theirs.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Have you try to bend it back? It might have been leaning or bending over time. The monitor is indeed heavy.
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried pulling it back a little, but as I said, it seems to be pretty solid plastic. I don't see how it would move that much without cracking. That's why I was hoping someone else with this monitor could take a picture of theirs.
Click to expand...

Mine is coming in soon next week I think. But I got the Pivot model and I'll check if there are anything.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Mine is coming in soon next week I think. But I got the Pivot model and I'll check if there are anything.


From what I've seen and read, the Pivot model stand is very nice and looks pretty sturdy and straight. I just tried to be cheap and save $20, and now I'm regretting it.


----------



## djriful

Were there any damage on the packaging, TarballX? And those styrofoam?

It is indeed doesn't look right. The pic below looks straight.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Were there any damage on the packaging, TarballX? And those styrofoam?


Nope, box was in excellent condition.



Edit: Well, after seeing that picture I went ahead and contacted the seller. Maybe I can convince them to send me a pivot stand.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Here's a picture of the "stand lean", which, now that I look at it again, really just seems to be the design of the stand, and not an actual flaw. The white part is hard plastic so I don't see how it could have bent in transit or anything. It's just not quite what's pictured in the seller's description.


im getting my non pivot crossover next week, il let you know!, any dead pixels?


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> im getting my non pivot crossover next week, il let you know!, any dead pixels?


I've found 2 "dark pixels" so far (meaning I don't know if they're actually dead). One at the bottom left and one center-top. I'm not sure the center-top one is a dead/stuck pixel, since it can disappear if you look at the monitor from a different angle. Might just be dust or something stuck in the glossy coating or whatever. But they're definitely not noticeable when I'm sitting at my normal distance from the screen. I had a 27" 1080p TN monitor before with a pixel that was stuck red, and THAT was noticeable, since it was red and much larger than the pixels on this monitor.


----------



## treefiddy

It may just be a new design? There's a white version of the 27Q now and it looks like that has an angled stand as well:


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> I've found 2 "dark pixels" so far (meaning I don't know if they're actually dead). One at the bottom left and one center-top. I'm not sure the center-top one is a dead/stuck pixel, since it can disappear if you look at the monitor from a different angle. Might just be dust or something stuck in the glossy coating or whatever. But they're definitely not noticeable when I'm sitting at my normal distance from the screen. I had a 27" 1080p TN monitor before with a pixel that was stuck red, and THAT was noticeable, since it was red and much larger than the pixels on this monitor.


i hope if i get dead pixels its to the outside of the screen, but id rather have a perfect screen!
my 690 is waiting to be used and abused, 1680x1050 is a cake walk for my card lol


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> It may just be a new design? There's a white version of the 27Q now and it looks like that has an angled stand as well:


Well that would make sense, I guess. That picture posted earlier of the Crossover with the perfectly vertical stand may have been an older model..
I still wouldn't mind getting a height adjustable stand.. might have to look into that...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Well that would make sense, I guess. That picture posted earlier of the Crossover with the perfectly vertical stand may have been an older model..
> I still wouldn't mind getting a height adjustable stand.. might have to look into that...


vesa mount bro!


----------



## fullhd99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Here's a picture of the "stand lean", which, now that I look at it again, really just seems to be the design of the stand, and not an actual flaw. The white part is hard plastic so I don't see how it could have bent in transit or anything. It's just not quite what's pictured in the seller's description.


or like this








i plan to buy this model non pivot because Achieva Shimian IPSB has discontinue
but if this stand bad like this so i think twice to buy this model
i hope you get replacement stand from seller


----------



## djriful

wow that's a design flaw. Glad I went with Pivot version.


----------



## dessoir

Hey guys,

I'm contemplating buying this display for photo editing. One thing I've read and am curious about is, does the BIOS display upon booting up?

If I bought this monitor, I'd dump my old one but if with only a crossover to work with and no access to BIOS...

Thanks for the input in advance!


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dessoir*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm contemplating buying this display for photo editing. One thing I've read and am curious about is, does the BIOS display upon booting up?
> 
> If I bought this monitor, I'd dump my old one but if with only a crossover to work with and no access to BIOS...
> 
> Thanks for the input in advance!


Yes it should.


----------



## Humafold

I got this response from Dream-Seller when I asked about my Crossover
Quote:


> Hi!Thanks for your response.We checked your transaction record and could see that your order was done on July 1st which was July 2nd in Korea time. So your product was ready to be shipped out on July 4th. Starting from this month, we do check all the monitors before shipment. Your monitor was also tested and checked before shipment. During checking, lots of dead pixels were found on your monitors. So we couldn't ship it out, and we sent it back to manufacturers. On July 6th, we received a new replacement, and tested it. But there were also dead pixels more than 5, and we couldn't ship it out. A second new replacement will arrive next monday, July 9th, and it'll be checked and shipped out on that day. We are so sorry for not informing you promptly. We beg your deep understanding.We'll wait for your reply. If you have any other question, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Thanks again for your understanding and cooperation in advance. Have a great day!Best Regards,P.S.- As it starts a weekend tomorrow in Korea time, we won't be able to respond promptly. We'll be able to respond on July 9th. We beg your deep understanding. Have a wonderful weekend!


About 5 minutes before I received this message, I received a Shipping Confirmation email. Should I be worried? Now I think I'm getting a reject, haha.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> I got this response from Dream-Seller when I asked about my Crossover
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi!Thanks for your response.We checked your transaction record and could see that your order was done on July 1st which was July 2nd in Korea time. So your product was ready to be shipped out on July 4th. Starting from this month, we do check all the monitors before shipment. Your monitor was also tested and checked before shipment. During checking, lots of dead pixels were found on your monitors. So we couldn't ship it out, and we sent it back to manufacturers. On July 6th, we received a new replacement, and tested it. But there were also dead pixels more than 5, and we couldn't ship it out. A second new replacement will arrive next monday, July 9th, and it'll be checked and shipped out on that day. We are so sorry for not informing you promptly. We beg your deep understanding.We'll wait for your reply. If you have any other question, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Thanks again for your understanding and cooperation in advance. Have a great day!Best Regards,P.S.- As it starts a weekend tomorrow in Korea time, we won't be able to respond promptly. We'll be able to respond on July 9th. We beg your deep understanding. Have a wonderful weekend!
> 
> 
> 
> About 5 minutes before I received this message, I received a Shipping Confirmation email. Should I be worried? Now I think I'm getting a reject, haha.
Click to expand...

i just ordered my crossover from redcap, hope he didnt get the same batch dream-seller got lol, i ordered wednesday night and got my tracking number today


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> i just ordered my crossover from redcap, hope he didnt get the same batch dream-seller got lol, i ordered wednesday night and got my tracking number today


Yeah it seems redcap is much faster then dream-seller. I had to message him 4-5 days after I ordered because it hadn't shipped and that is the response I got. Yikes. This doesn't look good.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> i just ordered my crossover from redcap, hope he didnt get the same batch dream-seller got lol, i ordered wednesday night and got my tracking number today
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it seems redcap is much faster then dream-seller. I had to message him 4-5 days after I ordered because it hadn't shipped and that is the response I got. Yikes. This doesn't look good.
Click to expand...

Actually red-cap hasn't been very quick for me. I ordered last Friday and didn't receive my shipping confirmation till Tuesday. He also gave the reason that all the monitors had bad pixels so he had to get new ones. They do say they check the monitors before shipping them out, so I wouldn't worry too much...


----------



## sulo251

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> I got this response from Dream-Seller when I asked about my Crossover
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi!Thanks for your response.We checked your transaction record and could see that your order was done on July 1st which was July 2nd in Korea time. So your product was ready to be shipped out on July 4th. Starting from this month, we do check all the monitors before shipment. Your monitor was also tested and checked before shipment. During checking, lots of dead pixels were found on your monitors. So we couldn't ship it out, and we sent it back to manufacturers. On July 6th, we received a new replacement, and tested it. But there were also dead pixels more than 5, and we couldn't ship it out. A second new replacement will arrive next monday, July 9th, and it'll be checked and shipped out on that day. We are so sorry for not informing you promptly. We beg your deep understanding.We'll wait for your reply. If you have any other question, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Thanks again for your understanding and cooperation in advance. Have a great day!Best Regards,P.S.- As it starts a weekend tomorrow in Korea time, we won't be able to respond promptly. We'll be able to respond on July 9th. We beg your deep understanding. Have a wonderful weekend!
> 
> 
> 
> About 5 minutes before I received this message, I received a Shipping Confirmation email. Should I be worried? Now I think I'm getting a reject, haha.
Click to expand...

Just to share my experience, I also ordered from dream-seller on 6/29 and received my monitor on July 5. The monitor is FLAWLESS!. I ran the pixel test to find dead/hot pixels and there were none. Waited til it was night to run a thorough test for backlight bleeding, no such thing on this puppy. When I opened the package, I received the same notice about the latest batch having lots of bad pixels and had to be sent back to the manufacturer. The seller also said that my monitor was opened to check for quality before shipping.

I got the plain 27Q LED version and it is so much better than my old and dead Soyo Topaz 24'' MVA panel. Wish you guys the same luck!


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> Just to share my experience, I also ordered from dream-seller on 6/29 and received my monitor on July 5. The monitor is FLAWLESS!. I ran the pixel test to find dead/hot pixels and there were none. Waited til it was night to run a thorough test for backlight bleeding, no such thing on this puppy. When I opened the package, I received the same notice about the latest batch having lots of bad pixels and had to be sent back to the manufacturer. The seller also said that my monitor was opened to check for quality before shipping.
> 
> I got the plain 27Q LED version and it is so much better than my old and dead Soyo Topaz 24'' MVA panel. Wish you guys the same luck!


You just made me feel a whole lot better!









EDIT: Ohhhh let me be the person to give you ... +REP Number 1!


----------



## djriful

I wish the carrier works on weekend in Americas.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 
> I wish the carrier works on weekend in Americas.


fed-ex, and ups do, but not usps and canada post


----------



## Humafold

Saturday, July 07, 2012 Location Time
6 Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 10:04

I guess mine was on the earlier plane.


----------



## disownedpear

hello, ive had my crossover for 2 months now and i really love it, but this morning i turned on my computer and it wont display anything, but the blue light is on. i already tried replacing the cable, anyone know whats wrong?


----------



## jonesmann

hello everyone!

i have my crossover 27q led-p for 2 days. On the first day the crossver just worked for 30 minutes. After that the power light just flashes 3 times blue then 3 times red and i think the display flashes for one second, like it try to start up but couldn finish.

I try different computers (MacBookPro and PC with Gigabyte Geforce GTX 560TI) and hooked up to different DVI-Ports. My result are:

DVI-Port #1: the power light flashes 3 time blue and 3 times red. I dont know what this mean.
DVI-Port #2: the power light flashes blue and red almost at the same time. I think this means no signal at all.

But here comes the tricky part. When i leave the crossover without power (all cabels pulled out) over night it just starts perfectly at the first start of the day. But if i power off the display while i am in windows, the display doesnt start up again.









Does anyone have the same issue with the crossover? or any hint what that could mean?

thank you for your answer!


----------



## gumbie

My LED-P Should be here on Monday


----------



## Elsinore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *disownedpear*
> 
> hello, ive had my crossover for 2 months now and i really love it, but this morning i turned on my computer and it wont display anything, but the blue light is on. i already tried replacing the cable, anyone know whats wrong?


Which cable did you replace? My Crossover 27q worked the first day but not the second. I resolved it by really forcing the power cable into the power brick, it wasn't a tight connection the first time.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My LED-P Should be here on Monday


Monday or Tuesday for me. It has just arrived:

Code:



Code:


Arrived at Sort Facility CINCINNATI HUB - USA        CINCINNATI HUB, OH - USA        14:19

DHL Express is so efficient than any other carrier I've used. Purolator is second on my list. Third is Canada Post and the worse is UPS.
UPS charges stupid custom fee. I've bought an item for $40 and got charged for $40 custom + $15 shipping. I was so upset and I yelled at UPS over the phone.


----------



## Elsinore

I'm feeling that many of the issues are with the power brick. Mine says 190v to 220v input in the specs and has an added sticker at the bottom that says "110v is acceptable". It may be acceptable for a few weeks or months, but I no longer trust it and will be replacing it with a 120v adapter that is specialized for the US.


----------



## Qu1ckset

May i ask where everyone is getting there us 110v power bricks from?? because if my crossover arrives with the 190-220v power brick with a sticker placed on it saying good for 110v i want to replace it.

are you guys just using ebay or something??


----------



## Elsinore

For the replacement power brick, I used Ebay for "AC Adapter 24V 5A For EFL-2202W LCD Monitor(4 pin Tip)".

Would have preferred Amazon but couldn't find the right one.


----------



## djriful

Green-sum told me those adapter supports 110v. As long if you have the adapter for it or change the cable plug. Can someone let us know if this is valid?


----------



## Wiz33

I'm using a Catleap from Green-sum and a Crossover from BCC and the Catleap from Green-sum came with a 100-240V PSU while the Grossover from BBC came with a 190-240V PSU. However both are working fine and is just warm to the touch.


----------



## gumbie

Mine just came, Perfect condition and not a single dead/stuck pixel on it.. I got the pivot model and the stand is badass aswell, My desk wobbles more then the monitor, Could not be happier! got mine through bigclothcraft.

My power brick also says 190 - 220v But it doesn't have any little sticker, I will be replacing it regardless, along with the dvi cable just for peace of mind


----------



## JayXMonsta

Anybody have the Crossover gold? I just found out that those have a optical out and display port which will save me 200 bucks







and I was just wondering if the speaker sounded good and if it works well and how does 1080p look on it?


----------



## Sazexa

So, I'm interested in buying one. Two concerns:

I've noticed that people with Radeon 6950's have some minor issue in which a switch sometimes must be enabled?

I've also noticed some manufacturers say it is not compatible with P67 chipsets.

I have two 6950's, and a P67 "revised" chipset.
Think I should give these monitors a shot?


----------



## mahdi

what? how can p67 affect the display? i have ordered one and i'm using a p67 revised mobo, too. rolling with an hd 6850. i'll let you know soon


----------



## Ftruck

Bought My Led-P pixel perfect from accesorieswhole's eBay store last night. Really wish I'd bought it from Amazon because I ended up being fisted by PayPal's ridiculous currency conversion. Should have been $488 Australian at market rates and I don't have to pay currency conversion fees with my bank but PayPal won't let you just buy things in USD and let your bank handle the conversion. So it ended up being $508


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> Bought My Led-P pixel perfect from accesorieswhole's eBay store last night. Really wish I'd bought it from Amazon because I ended up being fisted by PayPal's ridiculous currency conversion. Should have been $488 Australian at market rates and I don't have to pay currency conversion fees with my bank but PayPal won't let you just buy things in USD and let your bank handle the conversion. So it ended up being $508


I think the ebay seller only accept credit or paypal.


----------



## champers

Does anyone know what happened to AccessoryWhole's Amazon storefront? They had at least a dozen models for sale there a day or two ago, and now they aren't selling anything. I was looking at grabbing one from Amazon because I have good chunk of Amazon credit I could use.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> Bought My Led-P pixel perfect from accesorieswhole's eBay store last night. Really wish I'd bought it from Amazon because I ended up being fisted by PayPal's ridiculous currency conversion. Should have been $488 Australian at market rates and I don't have to pay currency conversion fees with my bank but PayPal won't let you just buy things in USD and let your bank handle the conversion. So it ended up being $508


The seller has to pay fees to I used to sell on eBay and it was so annyoing there where a lot of annyoing fees and stuff eBay and PayPal do. Hell some times I would sell items and I would only make 60% of the profit







evil company.


----------



## Gualichu04

Going to snag one of these at a later date. Is the 3 year ebay warranty worth it as i can only get it via dreamseller for the best price. I would have to buy a adapter to but I get a 3 year warranty if ebay covers this item. One more thing will my gtx 480 run this resolution just fine? I overclock it to 850/1700/2050mhz while gaming. Just wanting some thoughts on this future decision.


----------



## Ftruck

Ahh snap just got my shipping confirmation from eBay. Estimated delivery time is 15-30 days because it's shipping through EMS. Australia is definitely a FedEX serviced country so not sure why they didn't use them.


----------



## LoveMav

Hi- Everyone.

I've just joined on Overclock.net today.
Though, I've been thoroughly went all over the threads.
Sure it is very helpful to me to make a decision.
Thank you guys-









I was not decide which seller to go with.
From this thread, I could narrow the sellers down for two; BCC and AW on Ebay.

My friend recently got his monitor from AW and recommended AW to go with,
but the price is much higher.

I could not afford the big pocket money.
Since BCC have great comments from all, I decided to go with BCC, instead of AW.

Hoping to receive my new monitor soon!!!

Any advise, I will appreciate


----------



## Elecgeek

Recently I purchased the 27Q LED-P from BCC.

It's been about a week or so.
I used monitor for playing Diablo with loud sound most of time.
And didn't realized it till now there was a some kinda wired noise coming out from the monitor.

You know, 27Q LED-P does not have a built in speaker.
so, why the strange sound coming out?

After I noticed the wiredo sound, I could not get rid of it and it really bugs me off.
and now some sort of screen moving too.

So, I contacted BCC for it.
and they said they never had a claim or issue of this noise and moving screen.

They think I am a jerk who complains for refund.
But, I do like my monitor.
I wasn't just nit picking for nothing.

Maybe their English is too poor to understand. Because they are Koreans.
Or, maybe they are just too rude.

After the first message I sent to them,
They have not replied me for 3 days.

What is this?

I am very disappointed about their service and communication.

Should I go ahead and leave a negative feedback or wait to receive their response?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Is your annoying sound coming from the power button area? If so, it's not uncommon for these monitors. My CrossOver had it more noticeably than my ShiMians do (it was audible at normal sitting distance, and I can't really hear the ShiMians until I move my head in much closer).


----------



## djriful

I've just received mine like 1 hour ago. I compared it to Apple side by side... looks identical. But the ACD one is guarrantee no dead pixel. On the crossover there is 1 dead and 2-3 stuck, however, they are not visible on normal use and view distance.

Note: crossover is a bit more yellow tint over ACD one. It is probably due to the LED temperature.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I've just received mine like 1 hour ago. I compared it to Apple side by side... looks identical. But the ACD one is guarrantee no dead pixel. On the crossover there is 1 dead and 2-3 stuck, however, they are not visible on normal use and view distance.
> Note: crossover is a bit more yellow tint over ACD one. It is probably due to the LED temperature.


Calibrated or out of the box?


----------



## Humafold

Yeah, mine was delivered to my wife's work about 2 hours ago. I will set it up tonight. Hopefully, not too many dead/stuck pixels. On a side note, I downloaded the profile that was in this thread for calibration and will probably use that unless it's perfectly calibrated out of the box.


----------



## elite2048

Just received my 2720MDP Pivot this morning. Time to run some tests!


----------



## mahdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So, I'm interested in buying one. Two concerns:
> I've noticed that people with Radeon 6950's have some minor issue in which a switch sometimes must be enabled?
> I've also noticed some manufacturers say it is not compatible with P67 chipsets.
> I have two 6950's, and a P67 "revised" chipset.
> Think I should give these monitors a shot?


works just fine on my p67 + 6850. but box got damaged in transit, vertical cut on the side facing the monitor. something must have punctured the screen, so there is a vertical dark spot on the monitor. does green-sum handle returns fine?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Calibrated or out of the box?


My ACD is calibrated. The Crossover, not yet but looks close to ACD by default which I am amazed. The yellow tint is really light, and it is the LED. I've test it by running black and white mode aka no color.

It's not an issue, due it is extremely light tint.

I'll be posting a review soon. Moderate - Extensive reviews.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> My ACD is calibrated. The Crossover, not yet but looks close to ACD by default which I am amazed. The yellow tint is really light, and it is the LED. I've test it by running black and white mode aka no color.
> It's not an issue, due it is extremely light tint.
> I'll be posting a review soon. Moderate - Extensive reviews.


Would you get it exact if you calibrated it though? Or does the LED issue mean that won't be possible? Is it a consistent tint, or does it appear near the bottom? Would you notice it if you didn't have the apple next to it?


----------



## Humafold

My box is pretty bashed up. Hope monitor is ok. Damn


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Would you get it exact if you calibrated it though? Or does the LED issue mean that won't be possible? Is it a consistent tint, or does it appear near the bottom? Would you notice it if you didn't have the apple next to it?


I've just re-calibrated both monitor now. They are both look 1:1 same.









There are no inconsistent like bleed, or ting or gradient. This monitor looks exactly like my ACD and apparently my ACD is having some gradient contrast problem (I will explain it in the review soon). So Crossover looks much better than ACD as it for now.

Aside from 1 deadpixel or 2-3 stuck one. It is not noticeable at all.

Now I feel ripped off for buying ACD.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> My box is pretty bashed up. Hope monitor is ok. Damn


same here. I checked the monitor. It seems fine. But I haven't powered it up yet.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> My box is pretty bashed up. Hope monitor is ok. Damn


Mine is a perfect box. =/

Maybe my box was sitting on yours. Sorry!


----------



## champers

Anybody heard why AW stopped selling on Amazon?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I've just re-calibrated both monitor now. They are both look 1:1 same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are no inconsistent like bleed, or ting or gradient. This monitor looks exactly like my ACD and apparently my ACD is having some gradient contrast problem (I will explain it in the review soon). So Crossover looks much better than ACD as it for now.
> Aside from 1 deadpixel or 2-3 stuck one. It is not noticeable at all.
> Now I feel ripped off for buying ACD.


I want yours since my first crossover had issues. Bah!









PP from AW, right?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I've just re-calibrated both monitor now


What colorimeter+software are you using?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> What colorimeter+software are you using?


Borrowed a Spyder4 from office.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I hope it was a Spyder 4 Elite. Can you post the default colour presets (gamma/brightness/contrast/colour temperature) and calibrated results?


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> Mine is a perfect box. =/
> 
> Maybe my box was sitting on yours. Sorry!


I got a perfect pixel!!!

Not a single dead or stuck pixel. I have checked it like 4 times now. Dream-Seller - you da man.


----------



## mahdi

i should've went with another seller then. i got back-light bleed like crazy, "mura effect", and contrast seems noticeably less than 1000:1. it's definitely going back! has anyone here returned anything to green-sum?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I've just re-calibrated both monitor now. They are both look 1:1 same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are no inconsistent like bleed, or ting or gradient. This monitor looks exactly like my ACD and apparently my ACD is having some gradient contrast problem (I will explain it in the review soon). So Crossover looks much better than ACD as it for now.
> Aside from 1 deadpixel or 2-3 stuck one. It is not noticeable at all.
> Now I feel ripped off for buying ACD.


you ordered from green-sum also, right? man how did i get a totally different monitor from yours. it doesn't even seem to be fully glossy compared to another one of my monitors. hey, can you verify that in a dark image from both monitors you can see your reflection as clear on the crossover as on the ACD?


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> Ahh snap just got my shipping confirmation from eBay. Estimated delivery time is 15-30 days because it's shipping through EMS. Australia is definitely a FedEX serviced country so not sure why they didn't use them.


Wow dude, Mine got shipped on Friday 6th and it arrived on Monday the 9th, I'm also in australia..


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mahdi*
> 
> i should've went with another seller then. i got back-light bleed like crazy, "mura effect", and contrast seems noticeably less than 1000:1. it's definitely going back! has anyone here returned anything to green-sum?
> you ordered from green-sum also, right? man how did i get a totally different monitor from yours. it doesn't even seem to be fully glossy compared to another one of my monitors. hey, can you verify that in a dark image from both monitors you can see your reflection as clear on the crossover as on the ACD?


Yes I can see my reflection. I have the LED-P (Pivot) edition.


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie*
> 
> Wow dude, Mine got shipped on Friday 6th and it arrived on Monday the 9th, I'm also in australia..


Do you know if yours said it had shipped through EMS or FedEX? Hopefully the estimate is just way wrong so you're impressed when it arrives quickly.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Yes I can see my reflection. I have the LED-P (Pivot) edition.


Did you mention which seller you went with? I suck at finding it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

My second monitor arrived in exactly 1.5 days from placing my order... to eastern U.S.! I was incredibly impressed, to say the least. Delivery was by FedEx.


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> Do you know if yours said it had shipped through EMS or FedEX? Hopefully the estimate is just way wrong so you're impressed when it arrives quickly.


It was handled by EMS, Then once it arrived in Australia it was handled by Australia Post.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Mine should arrive tomorrow, i cant wait to get rid of this crappy gateway monitor i was using as temp... 1680x1050 is not challenging my gtx690


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> 1680x1050 is not challenging my gtx690


Not much will challenge that 690 right now... even at 2560x1440


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 1680x1050 is not challenging my gtx690
> 
> 
> 
> Not much will challenge that 690 right now... even at 2560x1440
Click to expand...

thats why i bought her lol, she should easily last me till the dual maxwell card comes out along with intels haswell cpu's


----------



## braveblade

For 2720mdp owners, I have a problem with the sound. I use my speaker to output sound, but once connected everything to 2720mdp, the sound is very dull. I used the same speaker for my previously monitor and the sound is very good. It looks like 2720mdp is still using its own speaker to output the sound even I connected to my outer speaker. Any help?


----------



## gumbie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> Talking about luck. Here is my 2720mdp pivot. I want to cry


Wow.. that is epic backlight bleeding...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> Talking about luck. Here is my 2720mdp pivot. I want to cry


omg thats brutal! i really hope mine looks nothing like that!


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> Talking about luck. Here is my 2720mdp pivot. I want to cry


Good lord. Nothing like this over here... poor you.


----------



## derickwm

Couldn't resist anymore... bought one. If all goes smoothly may order 2 more


----------



## champers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> Talking about luck. Here is my 2720mdp pivot. I want to cry


What vendor is that from?


----------



## Humafold

I can't believe it was sent like that to you. I bet the FedEx or UPS guy dropped it. No way would anyone send something looking like it does in your photo.


----------



## farbien

I've received perfect perfect monitor from AW.
the 2720 MDP-Pivot.
I was very horrified to see your photo on this thread.
I received monitor within a day and their communication is excellent!!
I've bugging them for the numerous questions but AW replied them back with instance.
Fortunately, and as they promised to me, it has very little back light bleed, which is unnoticeable.

Just out of curiosity, I took a photo too.
and it appears like yours!!!

backlight bleed is not captured in close distance but the far distance when you take a photo.
As far as I know the camera, it captures and drags all the light it could get.
and it just seems like have a contrast of camera, not the backlight bleed.

hard and difficult to explain.

I bet no sellers could sell excessive backlight bleed and receive horrible feedback toward them.


----------



## LC155

Woah, even with my monitor in my face I wouldn't see IPS glow like that.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Do try to take a photo from ~10 feet away, in a dark room with the camera zoomed in. That will give you a better idea of the actual backlight bleed vs. IPS glow (which is what you're seeing in part). Also use a full black screen, such as testing a blank screensaver.


----------



## xtrad3r

So I received a "perfect pixel" replacement 27Q from AW and it has 1 dead pixel... Very disappointed, especially since went through the hassle of shipping the old monitor with 3 dead pixels back and shelling out an additional $100 for this "perfect pixel" monitor...

I will keep it now, I don't want to start arguing with them again, making a million pictures etc etc and then shipping it back... I can live with this one pixel, since its barely visible on the bottom. Overall I'm not that impressed with AW, though. It has been a fairly unpleasant experience, I've been even accused of being selfish by them for asking for a small discount on the replacement.

Otherwise this Crossover is amazing! Love everything about it, no flickering or banding issues, just beautiful!


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mahdi*
> 
> what? how can p67 affect the display? i have ordered one and i'm using a p67 revised mobo, too. rolling with an hd 6850. i'll let you know soon


One of the sellers said that on-boot a P67 chipset may not display to the monitors right away. This could be if you're using video out directly from the board and not your card though.

I really would like to order one myself, but there are few things on my wishlist that are a bit more important to me in the mean time. Let me know how it fairs with your revised P67 and 6850.


----------



## djriful

Yeah, don't mix up with the IPS glow. the glow is an effect from the monitor film polarize from what I believe and it will shows more if you look from an angle. This is normal, it appear the exact same on my Apple Cinema Display.


----------



## Humafold

I feel like people may be going in with some insanely high expectations. It's a sub $400 27-inch IPS (2560x1440). If you want a perfect monitor then you should shell out the $800 for one. I would agree with sellers in cases where people are complaining about slight problems.

Remember to read the listing in it's entirety before you buy.


----------



## trulsrohk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> One of the sellers said that on-boot a P67 chipset may not display to the monitors right away. This could be if you're using video out directly from the board and not your card though.
> I really would like to order one myself, but there are few things on my wishlist that are a bit more important to me in the mean time. Let me know how it fairs with your revised P67 and 6850.


P67 boards don't have on board video chipsets


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> I understand the difference between uneven backlight and IPS grow. In my case it's definitely uneven backlight and bleeding. AW is excellent as she agreed to take it back. So I will stop at this point. I wish everyone good luck and receive the prefect monitor.


How did you know AW = a she?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> How did you know AW = a she?


AW is a company, but their customer rep who we all speak to is Nancy.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> AW is a company, but their customer rep who we all speak to is Nancy.


Oh nevermind, I've just saw her store. Bunch of woman makeups.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> I feel like people may be going in with some insanely high expectations. It's a sub $400 27-inch IPS (2560x1440). If you want a perfect monitor then you should shell out the $800 for one. I would agree with sellers in cases where people are complaining about slight problems.
> Remember to read the listing in it's entirety before you buy.


That's not true - we know what we're buying. We're agreeing to some dead/stuck pixels (if the listing doesn't say it's "perfect pixel"), some backlight bleed, some discoloration, but overall normal operation. People don't complain about minor issues for the most part, they complain about noticeable problems. A $300-400 monitor is still a big chunk of money, so it's fair to say that we want something that actually works and doesn't have bothersome flicker or very bad backlight bleed, or what have you. Moreover, if someone shells out an extra $100+ for a "perfect" monitor over average, and it's not "perfect" in the ways it is described, it's fair to claim that those extra $100+ were a waste and return/exchange.

I agree that certain sellers use intimidation tactics and treat people like they are being too picky and unreasonable and not admitting real issues with returned monitors. It's very frustrating, and I recommend everyone read these monitor threads carefully to pick fair sellers who don't cause premature gray hair.


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> That's not true - we know what we're buying. We're agreeing to some dead/stuck pixels (if the listing doesn't say it's "perfect pixel"), some backlight bleed, some discoloration, but overall normal operation. People don't complain about minor issues for the most part, they complain about noticeable problems. A $300-400 monitor is still a big chunk of money, so it's fair to say that we want something that actually works and doesn't have bothersome flicker or very bad backlight bleed, or what have you. Moreover, if someone shells out an extra $100+ for a "perfect" monitor over average, and it's not "perfect" in the ways it is described, it's fair to claim that those extra $100+ were a waste and return/exchange.
> 
> I agree that certain sellers use intimidation tactics and treat people like they are being too picky and unreasonable and not admitting real issues with returned monitors. It's very frustrating, and I recommend everyone read these monitor threads carefully to pick fair sellers who don't cause premature gray hair.


I agree with you for the most part. If you spend the extra money for a "perfect pixel" then that is exactly what you should get. My reply is more in reponse to those who had complained about a little backlight bleed and some dead pixels. It's clear that you have a chance this will happen. I agree that $300-$400 is a good chunk of money, but it is NOT a good chunk of money for what you are paying for in this case.

I think $5,000 is a good chunk of money, but if someone gave me a trip for 10 days to Fiji for $5,000 I'd think it was insanely cheap. The price is relative to the product you are receiving.


----------



## mahdi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> One of the sellers said that on-boot a P67 chipset may not display to the monitors right away. This could be if you're using video out directly from the board and not your card though.
> I really would like to order one myself, but there are few things on my wishlist that are a bit more important to me in the mean time. Let me know how it fairs with your revised P67 and 6850.


works fine, however i have other issues. hey does the non pivot version use a different panel from the LED-P?


----------



## ElevenEleven

You're right, if someone's complaining about 5 dead/stuck pixels on a monitor listed with "5 stuck/dead pixels are okay" policy, I'd say it's unnecessary. Bringing up backlight bleed here is fair because it gives an idea of what one should expect as a possibility. My CrossOver did have more backlight bleed than my ShiMians (which have about none), and it was somewhat noticeable in normal use, but people definitely do mix up IPS glow and backlight bleed a lot. In any case, most of the complaints I see are about *noticeable* issues, such as significant yellow tint, or flickering, or a lot of faulty pixels, or their monitor's not turning on, versus like "I got 2 stuck pixels and I'm asking for a refund".


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> In any case, most of the complaints I see are about *noticeable* issues, such as significant yellow tint, or flickering, or a lot of faulty pixels, or their monitor's not turning on, verslike "I got 2 stuck pixels and I'm asking for a refund".


Okay. I may have exaggerated the number.









I love the Crossover monitor as a whole. If I had to find one negative it's the single input for D-DVI. Did your Crossover come with the Korean power brick or the updated one? I got the Korean one and changed it to the US one that was $23 on E-Bay.

I am also using my D-DVI cable from my Planar, but I assume the one that came with the monitor is good.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> For 2720mdp owners, I have a problem with the sound. I use my speaker to output sound, but once connected everything to 2720mdp, the sound is very dull. I used the same speaker for my previously monitor and the sound is very good. It looks like 2720mdp is still using its own speaker to output the sound even I connected to my outer speaker. Any help?


Braveblade, I agree the speakers are a bit naff but I did not expect much to be honest, you could salvage your old ones and solder those ones in it if the supplied ones bother you too much. As for turning off the monitor volume just turn down the volume on the monitor using the + and - buttons threw me at first

Djriful can you post your settings after your callibration or are you posting your profile in your review?

Sherpli I hope you get your Monitor sorted without to much hazzle.

A question for HDMI users, my GPU has a Mini HDMI port 1.4a will this support a resolution greater than 1920 x 1200? Just a query before I order a cable to replace the basic quality supplied Dual DVI one.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> In any case, most of the complaints I see are about *noticeable* issues, such as significant yellow tint, or flickering, or a lot of faulty pixels, or their monitor's not turning on, verslike "I got 2 stuck pixels and I'm asking for a refund".
> 
> 
> 
> Okay. I may have exaggerated the number.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the Crossover monitor as a whole. If I had to find one negative it's the single input for D-DVI. Did your Crossover come with the Korean power brick or the updated one? I got the Korean one and changed it to the US one that was $23 on E-Bay.
> I am also using my D-DVI cable from my Planar, but I assume the one that came with the monitor is good.
Click to expand...

It was Korean Loadus 190V+ with the "110V Okay" sticker, which I wasn't too sure about. Currently I'm using "upgraded" 110V Welltronics bricks from ta_planet for my ShiMians. Those were made in Korea too. Don't forget that the eBay power brick is not made in the U.S. either... barely anything is made outside of Asia nowadays.


----------



## djriful

I'm sure this is safe. This came in with my Crossover.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Yeah I went ahead and bought this one. I'm not really sure where it was made, but it's rated for US use. (I think it's made in China)
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/280673899776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


I believe that's the recommended replacement. It's probably going to be fine, and on the plus side, you can always buy more in the future if needed!


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I agree that certain sellers use intimidation tactics and treat people like they are being too picky and unreasonable and not admitting real issues with returned monitors. It's very frustrating, and I recommend everyone read these monitor threads carefully to pick fair sellers who don't cause premature gray hair.


Got to agree with this, watch out for this kind of stuff.


----------



## ElevenEleven

This is the "upgraded" Welltronics adapter from ta_planet - note the larger choke size



Interestingly, the same model number as the regular one above... supposedly better "insides" though, and the bigger choke.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> I just want to let everyone know that I am not joking around or picky about the backlight bleeding problem on my monitor. I noticed it at the very first moment i turned on the monitor. I was like "omg!!!".
> I trust aw tested all monitors before shipping. I'm thinking about they maybe test their monitors in a very bright room, so they will never notice the backlight problem. My room, on the other hand, is kind of dark, that's why I noticed it so easily. The photo I took, was definitely not IPS glow, but backlight bleeding. I even provided AW (Nancy) a short video showing the problem on my monitor. AW (Nancy) is being excellent so far, as she agreed to take it back to test. I was not blame AW, just the whole excitement suddenly became disappointment, which makes me sad.
> ps, this monitor is not $400, plus import duty it is close to $600 CAD...


Well, we are not going to tell you want to do with your money. I mean if you feel unfair, contact the seller. No one is blaming you about giving it up.


----------



## mahdi

backlight bleeding/uniformity problems are way more noticeable than a few dead pixels anyway. that destroys contrast and image quality. so these shimians appear to be better in that regard from reviews. it's a shame these crossovers have the best looking housing yet it's more hit or miss on the panel quality.

what i've got on mine is hardcore backlight bleed from the right side, general washed out image, and a dark blotch and line. could be from damage, or could be how it left korea. the overall low contrast doesn't give me much confidence, though. i think i'll give the shimians a go, or just forgot about these monitors altogether.


----------



## LC155

Mine was completely fine except for the flickering I had.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> It would be best if sellers can agree to take a photo for the backlight in dark room and send it to the buyer first. But by asking this I'm pretty sure the seller will think i'm an ass...
> Aside from the backlight bleeding problem, i really like the crossover monitor. Refund or replacement, decisions, decisions, decisions...


Try it on a seller you're not going to go for first.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharpli*
> 
> I just want to let everyone know that I am not joking around or picky about the backlight bleeding problem on my monitor. I noticed it at the very first moment i turned on the monitor. I was like "omg!!!".
> I trust aw tested all monitors before shipping. I'm thinking about they maybe test their monitors in a very bright room, so they will never notice the backlight problem. My room, on the other hand, is kind of dark, that's why I noticed it so easily. The photo I took, was definitely not IPS glow, but backlight bleeding. I even provided AW (Nancy) a short video showing the problem on my monitor. AW (Nancy) is being excellent so far, as she agreed to take it back to test. I was not blame AW, just the whole excitement suddenly became disappointment, which makes me sad.
> ps, this monitor is not $400, plus import duty it is close to $600 CAD...


wow are you serious, you paid $200 in duty?!?!?!? thats nuts, mine was supposed to arrive today it was even out for delivery but for some reason it said returned to depot and on hold, they better not of damaged it!

i told red-cap to mark the value at $100 so i wouldnt get raped in duty, hopefully theres non at all!


----------



## gumbie

I didn't pay any extra for my monitor ;o

Cost me $350 AUD


----------



## djriful

I only paid $40 taxes. No other fees.


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gumbie*
> 
> I didn't pay any extra for my monitor ;o
> Cost me $350 AUD


Yeah we don't have any import duties or taxes on items under $1000 that aren't tobacco or alcohol in Australia. They make up for it with ridiculous alcohol taxes.


----------



## Elsinore

Here's my current setup. A 27q is on the left and a 2720mdp is on the right. The 2720mdp is upside-down because it is 3" lower than if it was right-side-up and neither monitor could rotate into portrait easily if the support arms were any lower. The support is the Mount It! from Amazon for $54. I have my PC hooked into both monitors with dual DVI's.

My Macbook Pro is currently hooked into the 2720mdp through HDMI (only 1080p). I did not go with active dual DVI because I read it can be glitchy and may require reconnects. So I figured a 2720mdp would be the same cost as a 2nd 27q and active DVI-D adapter combined.

A cheap minidisplayport->displayport cable did not work, it causes a kernel panic on the Macbook Pro. I've read that it is a software issue that is going to be resolved with the release of 10.8 Mountain Lion in a few weeks. I guess a MDP->DP cable works on monitors such as U2711 and ACD, but not this one yet...I hope it is resolved because that was the whole point of buying the 2720mdp instead of another 27q.

The 2720mdp stand would not come off without unscrewing the panel housing. You can see the stand sticking up from the top of the monitor and it looks pretty ******ed. Hopefully someone braver than I will eventually post a video of how to open the panel housing and remove the stand. It may look a little better after removing the Crossover logo and I may also remove the OSD labels (will probably regret it later when I need to change settings).


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elsinore*
> 
> 
> Here's my current setup. A 27q is on the left and a 2720mdp is on the right. The 2720mdp is upside-down because it is 3" lower than if it was right-side-up and neither monitor could rotate into portrait easily if the support arms were any lower. The support is the Mount It! from Amazon for $54. I have my PC hooked into both monitors with dual DVI's.
> My Macbook Pro is currently hooked into the 2720mdp through HDMI (only 1080p). I did not go with active dual DVI because I read it can be glitchy and may require reconnects. So I figured a 2720mdp would be the same cost as a 2nd 27q and active DVI-D adapter combined.
> A cheap minidisplayport->displayport cable did not work, it causes a kernel panic on the Macbook Pro. I've read that it is a software issue that is going to be resolved with the release of 10.8 Mountain Lion in a few weeks. I guess a MDP->DP cable works on monitors such as U2711 and ACD, but not this one yet...I hope it is resolved because that was the whole point of buying the 2720mdp instead of another 27q.
> The 2720mdp stand would not come off without unscrewing the panel housing. You can see the stand sticking up from the top of the monitor and it looks pretty ******ed. Hopefully someone braver than I will eventually post a video of how to open the panel housing and remove the stand. It may look a little better after removing the Crossover logo and I may also remove the OSD labels (will probably regret it later when I need to change settings).


Have you considered using a mini-displayport to displayport adapter along with a displayport cable? I've been using the Accell B112B-001B adapter and it works just fine with my MBP 10.6.8.


----------



## Elsinore

What size is your MBP? Maybe its because I have a 13" with onboard graphics?


----------



## braveblade

I cannot use external speaker while playing ps3/360 on 2720mdp. It uses its own bad build in speaker even i connect the external speaker to audio out. Any fix?


----------



## DrLeoMarvin

Trying to decide for sure between this and the Catleap. Does this one have more input lag?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrLeoMarvin*
> 
> Trying to decide for sure between this and the Catleap. Does this one have more input lag?


I don't think it's going to be noticeable.

In terms of build quality, I feel that this is probably better because last time I remember the back of the monitor uses...powdercoated aluminum? Well, it isn't plastic so that's a plus. Newer Catleaps can't be overclocked either (well, the ones with the 2C PCB. I don't know about 2A).


----------



## champers

For anyone curious about buying these outside ebay:
Quote:


> Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> 
> We are a new seller on Amazon.com and currently Amazon.com is reviewing our sales history.
> For that reason, approximately 5 business days, we cannot sell any products on Amazon.com
> As soon as the seller centre has fully review on our sales history, sales will be appear it again.
> 
> Meanwhile, we do have another account on Amazon.uk as well.
> You can also check our products on Amazon.uk.
> 
> Sincerely
> 
> - accessorieswhole


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrLeoMarvin*
> 
> Trying to decide for sure between this and the Catleap. Does this one have more input lag?


The input lag would be very similar if not identical between the Catleap Q270 series and the Crossover LED and LED-P as neither have a scaler. I think the multi-input models have about three times as much input lag.


----------



## hotdavidjr

Hey guys,

I've just got my 2720mdp monitor from AW.
No dead, stuck pixels on sight and THANK GODDDDD- No backlight Bleed!!!








I have to thank you for all of your threads and comments to made me decided to go with AW.
As everyone recommended, their communication and product is AWESOME!!
I was bit worried to see one of the person was complaining about excessive backlight and it sure made me so frustrated.
So, I had to ask AW over and over again to make it sure NO backlight bleed.
Though, they replied me back as because of the S-IPS panel, it may have little, tiny light bleed on the panel.
and promised me for no excessive backlight and they sure did!!
I've noticed that on this forum, people are just making all complains about their dead/stuck/backlight issue and even import tax.
and I think it will be nice to leave a good comment for others who are looking this thread to decide which sellers they should go with.
Otherwise, no one could go with any sellers of CrossOver, just looking at whole thread. Don't you think so?
Obviously, people make buzzes when they have issues and when they receive the good quality one, most of time, forget to mention how thankful to receive decent one.
Now, I'm going to send a message to AW about how much I appreciate their good quality service and customer communication.
I think whoever responsed for the all inquiries I've sent, (I've sent about 15 messages to AW before I made my final decision and I know it must be bugged them so much), should have a prize for it.
I do not recommend you to send thousands messages to sellers and bug them to receive decent monitor.
I just think AW deserves the credit for what they do and serve.
Hope you have a good luck, too!


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> The input lag would be very similar if not identical between the Catleap Q270 series and the Crossover LED and LED-P as neither have a scaler. I think the multi-input models have about three times as much input lag.


I've not noticed any notable input lag on my multi input monitor in BF3 or Diablo III so the lag can't be that bad.


----------



## DrLeoMarvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I don't think it's going to be noticeable.
> In terms of build quality, I feel that this is probably better because last time I remember the back of the monitor uses...powdercoated aluminum? Well, it isn't plastic so that's a plus. Newer Catleaps can't be overclocked either (well, the ones with the 2C PCB. I don't know about 2A).


So who's the recommended seller for these? When comparing shipping time and least number of problems alongside price.


----------



## LC155

Depends on what you want...

pixel perfect? Only AW does those. Otherwise, BCC seems to be the best bet.

Others have had good experiences with green-sum as well.


----------



## Cherimoya

Finally received my 2720mdp gold yesterday from AW after Fedex had sent it on a World tour (Incheon- Guanzghou-Koln-Frankfurt-Paris-Stansted-Tun Wells).

No customs or VAT to pay though so that was good.

Initial impressions are very favourable - no dead or stuck pixels and the build quality (eg the stand) is better than I was expecting. There is some blacklight bleed but it's not too bad. The settings were pretty good out of the box with the exception of brightness which was set on maximum 100 - I've turned it way down to about 20.

I've got it attached to a Dell Inspiron with ATI 2600 HD XT via DVI and a Mac Mini with GeForce 320 M via Displayport. Both computers detected the display straight away and set the graphics properties accordingly. As you can tell from this kit, I am not a gamer so I can't comment on input lag or stuff like that.

The only real negative is that logo - it's going to have to go at some point.

A couple of pics from each machine:





Anyway, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this Forum - without you guys I wouldn't have known these things even existed


----------



## DrLeoMarvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Depends on what you want...
> pixel perfect? Only AW does those. Otherwise, BCC seems to be the best bet.
> Others have had good experiences with green-sum as well.


Looks like BBC is the way to go then. Thanks for the help.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrLeoMarvin*
> 
> So who's the recommended seller for these? When comparing shipping time and least number of problems alongside price.


Not sure. Somebody else will have to answer that, but I would go with any "top rated" seller on eBay.


----------



## LC155

Yeah, that logo is bad but come on, it's not all THAT bad in person.


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> Depends on what you want...
> 
> pixel perfect? Only AW does those. Otherwise, BCC seems to be the best bet.
> 
> Others have had good experiences with green-sum as well.


dream-seller has great prices and excellent product.


----------



## Cherimoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Yeah, that logo is bad but come on, it's not all THAT bad in person.


No I am being picky but it is in your line of sight.


----------



## mullum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cherimoya*
> 
> Finally received my 2720mdp gold ....
> No customs or VAT to pay though so that was good.


oooh you lucky bugger - and with FEDEX ! mate, no customs delay or charges is an absolute miracle in the UK ! Mine's been stuck at Gatwick customs for a week, its now in the grubby little hands of pathetic-parcelforce and I'll be lucky if the charges are LESS than the cost of the monitor itself and that it doesn't arrive in a soggy heap after being left in the rain (probably) ! Mine was sent by (EDIT) red-cap btw - oh how I wish I'd gone AW like you !

(EDIT - UPDATE) customs charges came to £39 - in total it took 2 weeks to get to my door.
So customs charges weren't that bad after all - total price then for a 27Q with tempered glass - £295.
There IS 1 dead pixel - as its stuck behind glass I can't try massaging it, pity but that was always the risk. Cant say I notice any heavy back light bleed. As I tried to tilt it down a little it fell forward and I had to catch it . Not the most stable of stands, quite stiff. Crossover label is a bit scratched/peeled off. Which is a good sign really as I reckon it would look better without it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I ordered mine from red-cap should be waiting for me at home, can't wait to get there and check her out!


----------



## supxm

hi,

people who own the crossover 2720mdp, can he checks if all input connectors (especially the component input) works please.

And tell which seller he purchased, and also does the monitor accepts multi input source AT THE SAME TIME,

for example : pc1+ps3 , pc1+pc2 , pc1+ps3+component source ...(mean no need to unplug the old source for the new one everytime).thx


----------



## braveblade

Anyone?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I cannot use external speaker while playing ps3/360 on 2720mdp. It uses its own build in speaker even i connect the external speaker to audio out. Any fix?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Anyone?


Not sure about that... but with the 360 you can just buy the extra audio AV cable and use the outs directly from that into your speakers.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Anyone?


Hi Braveblade can you explain what connectors you are using for your Xbox or even better post some pics so we can help you out.

I use a HDMI cable, I have the sound turned off on my monitor. I connect my turtle beach headset to this item http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005EDAFFS/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003UOSMEE&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=04VSATP699419NT2H7M3 or I could connect it to my amplifier. I hope that helps.

I found I had a mini HDMI adapter so I tried that on my PC GPU to monitor connection. Max resolution was 1920x1200 but I thought 1.4a could display higer resolutions than that. Looks like I will be sticking with Dual DVI for my PC connection but I'll be purchasing a superior cable than the one supplied.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Hi Braveblade can you explain what connectors you are using for your Xbox or even better post some pics so we can help you out.
> I use a HDMI cable, I have the sound turned off on my monitor. I connect my turtle beach headset to this item http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005EDAFFS/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003UOSMEE&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=04VSATP699419NT2H7M3 or I could connect it to my amplifier. I hope that helps.
> I found I had a mini HDMI adapter so I tried that on my PC GPU to monitor connection. Max resolution was 1920x1200 but I thought 1.4a could display higer resolutions than that. Looks like I will be sticking with Dual DVI for my PC connection but I'll be purchasing a superior cable than the one supplied.


Thank Althulas. I plugged my external speaker to the "audio out" hole on the monitor. While playing XBOX 360, the external speaker has sound, but very dull. It's just like the build in speaker uses external speaker to make sound. Also mute the build in speaker will mute the external speaker as well. For some reason, they are connected. Maybe I do need a audio cable to make external speaker work. I use to use the same setting on my old benq monitor, and the external speak can produce nice sound without the mix from the build in speaker. I must doing something wrong with the crossover one.


----------



## djriful

I've finished my OCN Review for now on the Pivot model. Feel free to add to the OP.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1280755/review-crossover-27q-led-p-pivot-edition-gallery-with-apple-cinema-display


----------



## champers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I've finished my OCN Review for now on the Pivot model. Feel free to add to the OP.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1280755/review-crossover-27q-led-p-pivot-edition-gallery-with-apple-cinema-display


Argh, this makes me want one even more. Still waiting on AccessoriesWhole to get their Amazon storefront back up.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I'm honestly so pissed right now with Canada post and there bull, they have had my package since Monday, and they keep putting it on hold, I call and know one knows what's going on like what is the point of a calling centre if you can't tell my why its on hold, you can't tell me where it is, and I have to wait 1-5days before you call me back!?!? I will never use there service ever again!

Sorry for the rant, I want my crossover!


----------



## djriful

Which seller you bought it from? Mine was shipped by DHL and it was amazing fast. Clearance took 2min.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Which seller you bought it from? Mine was shipped by DHL and it was amazing fast. Clearance took 2min.


Red-cap, he/she used ems which turns to Canada post when it gets into canada. From the looks of the tracking it ahud of been at my door Monday, it keeps going out for delivery and then going back to postal facility and then repeat, and today was the second repeat, and when I call no one can tell me what is going on!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Ok, I seriously want that model! I've been having an obsession with white electronics. Now to sell one of my glass ShiMians and wait for more sellers to offer the white 27Q...


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Ok, I seriously want that model! I've been having an obsession with white electronics. Now to sell one of my glass ShiMians and wait for more sellers to offer the white 27Q...


You don't know how much I'm laughing.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> You don't know how much I'm laughing.


Well, at least someone is getting some entertainment out of it! I'm mostly sighing at myself.


----------



## TheLaggingMan

I finally got a beautiful Crossover from AW and it's perfect. No dead pixels, bright pixels or backlight bleed. the only problem I have is that with the new monitor, my boot up times have increased from about 25 seconds to 70 seconds, and I can't figure out why. Does anybody have a fix?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Man i am so done with Canada post, worst service, my monitor has been in country and in my city since monday(already cleared customs) and I don't have my package because they lost the papers, I'm still waiting and now they are telling me I might have to wait till next week!


----------



## champers

(•_•) "Looks like you might have to..."
( •_•)>⌐■-■
(⌐■_■) "Go postal on them"


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I've finished my OCN Review for now on the Pivot model. Feel free to add to the OP.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1280755/review-crossover-27q-led-p-pivot-edition-gallery-with-apple-cinema-display


Great write thanks for taking the time and effort.


----------



## tridium

I received my Crossover 27Q from Greensum 2 days ago, and already it is not working. The screen turns on, but no picture. The backlight is working. Anyone else had this problem?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tridium*
> 
> I received my Crossover 27Q from Greensum 2 days ago, and already it is not working. The screen turns on, but no picture. The backlight is working. Anyone else had this problem?


Did you check your cable if it is connected properly?


----------



## tridium

Yes, checked all conditions, stopped displaying picture. I hooked up my old monitor, works fine.

The power brick would get super hot, might be the problem?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tridium*
> 
> Yes, checked all conditions, stopped displaying picture. I hooked up my old monitor, works fine.
> The power brick would get super hot, might be the problem?


I heard people have the same issue. Can you take a pic of your power brick description or label? Did you let it cool and try again?

Mine has been running for 4 days straight.


----------



## tridium

The power brick is a welltronics brand. Input 110-240V. 1.5A, output 24V DC , 5A


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tridium*
> 
> The power brick is a welltronics brand. Input 110-240V. 1.5A, output 24V DC , 5A


Mine is hot but I can leave my hand there which is bearable. Do you have an another computer to test it on?


----------



## FaStVtEc

After about two weeks my Crossover 27Q LED-P monitor from accesorieswhole has started flickering at random moments. Really bummed considering I purchased the perfect pixel version with A+ panel. Contacted them today and waiting for a reply.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FaStVtEc*
> 
> After about two weeks my Crossover 27Q LED-P monitor from accesorieswhole has started flickering at random moments. Really bummed considering I purchased the perfect pixel version with A+ panel. Contacted them today and waiting for a reply.


You're such sure is not your GPU?

edited... holy crap I must have been sleepy.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FaStVtEc*
> 
> After about two weeks my Crossover 27Q LED-P monitor from accesorieswhole has started flickering at random moments. Really bummed considering I purchased the perfect pixel version with A+ panel. Contacted them today and waiting for a reply.


Try and video it if you can. Trust me.

Also, play around with the brightness and see what happens. Could be a PWM issue.


----------



## amazing235

Hey,
just out of curiosity.
Didn't someone mentioned about AW on Amazon.com?
I could search their monitors on amazon.com
Was there any issue?


----------



## Ftruck

My pixel perfect LED-P from AW arrived today. No stuck or dead pixels but some definite backlight bleed in the bottom right hand corner. Pretty sure this is caused by the power indicator LED. Anyone try disconnecting the LED?

Edit: Bleed only noticeable in photos when expanded, not in preview size.


----------



## Althulas

My monitor has developed a half stuck/dead pixel in the center of the screen. I'm very dissapointed that this has developed but is only noticable if you look for it on a white screen. I hope no other faults develope though. I've treid using http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html and gently massaging the screen with a micro fibre cloth with no success.


----------



## Sazexa

So.

Has anyone reached a general consensus on who sells "the best" monitors?

(This not only includes least screen defects, but least likely to have to pay tax/customs to.)


----------



## djriful

Both Catleap and Crossover are at 85% rate of getting a near perfect monitor. This is like a lottery and I cannot assure of this. By chance, it could might have been damaged by the shock impact during the shipping. The largest the display is, the more fragile.


----------



## Sazexa

And what about input lag; is there any noticeable input lag?


----------



## Gallien

Well, just bought mine from BCC. $378 for a Crossover 27Q LED-P pivot/elevation model. SO EXCITED FOR IT


----------



## FaStVtEc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> You're such sure is not your GPU?
> edited... holy crap I must have been sleepy.


You might have a point. Not sure if it was my SLI evga gtx 680's or not. I just installed a gtx 680 lightning and I haven't noticed anymore flickering. Could have been a loose DVI cable, so upon installing the lightning the DVI cable was installed correctly.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> My pixel perfect LED-P from AW arrived today. No stuck or dead pixels but some definite backlight bleed in the bottom right hand corner. Pretty sure this is caused by the power indicator LED. Anyone try disconnecting the LED?
> Edit: Bleed only noticeable in photos when expanded, not in preview size.


----------



## Allintha

I just recieved my Crossover 27Q led-P today in the mail. One dead pixel with 1 green stuck pixel. Im having some problems though... the monitor will flicker off randomly and will give me a black screen, restarting my computer helps sometimes. Also, when trying to use it as a 2nd monitor it gets detected but stays black and the light is red. Any ideas on how to fix these problems?


----------



## Dabb

Just to let you guys know, you can run PS3 on this on 720p using a cheap HDMI to dual link DVI cable. I then bought a AV out to composite (I think? It's RCA + Yellow) and then plugged the RCA into my speaker for sound. I also tried other resolutions but they don't seem to have any outputs so 720p is the only one that works with a regular Crossover 27Q. 720p looks fine to me though as I sit a bit further away when playing on the PS3.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Just to let you guys know, you can run PS3 on this on 720p using a cheap HDMI to dual link DVI cable. I then bought a AV out to composite (I think? It's RCA + Yellow) and then plugged the RCA into my speaker for sound. I also tried other resolutions but they don't seem to have any outputs so 720p is the only one that works with a regular Crossover 27Q. 720p looks fine to me though as I sit a bit further away when playing on the PS3.


This is good to know - thank you!


----------



## ajl19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allintha*
> 
> I just recieved my Crossover 27Q led-P today in the mail. One dead pixel with 1 green stuck pixel. Im having some problems though... the monitor will flicker off randomly and will give me a black screen, restarting my computer helps sometimes. Also, when trying to use it as a 2nd monitor it gets detected but stays black and the light is red. Any ideas on how to fix these problems?


Who did you purchase from? I received my 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole on Tues. and am experiencing a similar issue where the screen will randomly black out. The backlight remains on and the led light stays blue, there is just no picture on the screen. Turning the monitor off and then on again fixes the issue, until it happens again randomly a few hours later.

In addition to that, the monitor has a very noticeable yellow tint on the right side of the screen. I think I would prefer one or two dead/stuck pixels, since at least those would be somewhat difficult to see during normal usage. The yellow tint is very obvious every time there are light colors on the screen.

I've contacted accessorieswhole regarding getting a refund, hopefully they won't give me any hassle given the good feedback they've gotten from others.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajl19*
> 
> Who did you purchase from? I received my 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole on Tues. and am experiencing a similar issue where the screen will randomly black out. The backlight remains on and the led light stays blue, there is just no picture on the screen. Turning the monitor off and then on again fixes the issue, until it happens again randomly a few hours later.
> In addition to that, the monitor has a very noticeable yellow tint on the right side of the screen. I think I would prefer one or two dead/stuck pixels, since at least those would be somewhat difficult to see during normal usage. The yellow tint is very obvious every time there are light colors on the screen.
> I've contacted accessorieswhole regarding getting a refund, hopefully they won't give me any hassle given the good feedback they've gotten from others.


What graphics card do the two of you have?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajl19*
> 
> Who did you purchase from? I received my 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole on Tues. and am experiencing a similar issue where the screen will randomly black out. The backlight remains on and the led light stays blue, there is just no picture on the screen. Turning the monitor off and then on again fixes the issue, until it happens again randomly a few hours later.
> In addition to that, the monitor has a very noticeable yellow tint on the right side of the screen. I think I would prefer one or two dead/stuck pixels, since at least those would be somewhat difficult to see during normal usage. The yellow tint is very obvious every time there are light colors on the screen.
> I've contacted accessorieswhole regarding getting a refund, hopefully they won't give me any hassle given the good feedback they've gotten from others.


This is precisely why I'm advocating paying less attention to Perfect Pixel models and more to general quality and inspection. I've experienced this as well, and out of 3 Korean monitors, the ones with stuck pixels and even some dust look flawless at normal sitting distance vs. one Pefect Pixel I had with various issues but no pixel faults.


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> Who did you purchase from? I received my 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole on Tues. and am experiencing a similar issue where the screen will randomly black out. The backlight remains on and the led light stays blue, there is just no picture on the screen. Turning the monitor off and then on again fixes the issue, until it happens again randomly a few hours later.
> 
> In addition to that, the monitor has a very noticeable yellow tint on the right side of the screen. I think I would prefer one or two dead/stuck pixels, since at least those would be somewhat difficult to see during normal usage. The yellow tint is very obvious every time there are light colors on the screen.
> 
> I've contacted accessorieswhole regarding getting a refund, hopefully they won't give me any hassle given the good feedback they've gotten from others.


I would just make sure you are using a power brick that is NOT the one that is from Korea. Try the $23.00 one and see if it helps before you go through the trouble of sending it back. I doubt that will be a quick experience.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Who did you purchase from? I received my 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole on Tues. and am experiencing a similar issue where the screen will randomly black out. The backlight remains on and the led light stays blue, there is just no picture on the screen. Turning the monitor off and then on again fixes the issue, until it happens again randomly a few hours later.
> In addition to that, the monitor has a very noticeable yellow tint on the right side of the screen. I think I would prefer one or two dead/stuck pixels, since at least those would be somewhat difficult to see during normal usage. The yellow tint is very obvious every time there are light colors on the screen.
> I've contacted accessorieswhole regarding getting a refund, hopefully they won't give me any hassle given the good feedback they've gotten from others.
> 
> 
> 
> I would just make sure you are using a power brick that is NOT the one that is from Korea. Try the $23.00 one and see if it helps before you go through the trouble of sending it back. I doubt that will be a quick experience.
Click to expand...

That replacement power brick is probably made in China. Moreover, a power brick will not cause screen discoloration like that.


----------



## ajl19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> What graphics card do the two of you have?


I have a gtx 670.


----------



## ajl19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> This is precisely why I'm advocating paying less attention to Perfect Pixel models and more to general quality and inspection. I've experienced this as well, and out of 3 Korean monitors, the ones with stuck pixels and even some dust look flawless at normal sitting distance vs. one Pefect Pixel I had with various issues but no pixel faults.


I agree, I did not purchase a perfect pixel model, but I definitely would have been even more upset if I shelled out an extra $100 and got this type of color uniformity issue. My monitor does not appear to have any dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## ajl19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Who did you purchase from? I received my 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole on Tues. and am experiencing a similar issue where the screen will randomly black out. The backlight remains on and the led light stays blue, there is just no picture on the screen. Turning the monitor off and then on again fixes the issue, until it happens again randomly a few hours later.
> In addition to that, the monitor has a very noticeable yellow tint on the right side of the screen. I think I would prefer one or two dead/stuck pixels, since at least those would be somewhat difficult to see during normal usage. The yellow tint is very obvious every time there are light colors on the screen.
> I've contacted accessorieswhole regarding getting a refund, hopefully they won't give me any hassle given the good feedback they've gotten from others.
> 
> 
> 
> I would just make sure you are using a power brick that is NOT the one that is from Korea. Try the $23.00 one and see if it helps before you go through the trouble of sending it back. I doubt that will be a quick experience.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion. For me, even it I was not having the random blackout issue, the uneven yellow tint is distracting enough for me to want to return the monitor.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajl19*
> 
> Who did you purchase from? I received my 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole on Tues. and am experiencing a similar issue where the screen will randomly black out. The backlight remains on and the led light stays blue, there is just no picture on the screen. Turning the monitor off and then on again fixes the issue, until it happens again randomly a few hours later.
> In addition to that, the monitor has a very noticeable yellow tint on the right side of the screen. I think I would prefer one or two dead/stuck pixels, since at least those would be somewhat difficult to see during normal usage. The yellow tint is very obvious every time there are light colors on the screen.
> I've contacted accessorieswhole regarding getting a refund, hopefully they won't give me any hassle given the good feedback they've gotten from others.


Regarding the yellow tint.. the panels in these monitors are A- for a reason - if not for dead pixels, then most likely for inconsistent colors across the screen. You'd have to go up to the $550 version that AW claims has an A+ panel, or an American monitor with an A+ panel to get a "perfect" one.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Yellow tint is just bad luck. Usually it's very light-to-nonexistent, but some individual units end up with a lot of noticeable tint. It's something I'd definitely put in as a request for testing prior to sending as one of my main pre-requisites.


----------



## Cup0Noodles

What do you folk recommend I use to clean my screen? Currently I just use water w/ a lint free cloth.


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> What do you folk recommend I use to clean my screen? Currently I just use water w/ a lint free cloth.


I was using the Endust LCD screen wipes and then going over it with a Micro-FIber cloth, but even that leaves residue/streaks. I'm wondering the same thing.


----------



## michabsolute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> That replacement power brick is probably made in China. Moreover, a power brick will not cause screen discoloration like that.


Oh, that's not true.
My brother bought a monitor about a month ago from AW and the power brick was written as "made in Korea".
What brought you an idea about made in china?

I also bought 2 monitors from AW and received it today.
and, it is also written as "made in Korea."

anyway, I don't care where it is made from.
It just work fine.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michabsolute*
> 
> Oh, that's not true.
> My brother bought a monitor about a month ago from AW and the power brick was written as "made in Korea".
> What brought you an idea about made in china?
> I also bought 2 monitors from AW and received it today.
> and, it is also written as "made in Korea."
> anyway, I don't care where it is made from.
> It just work fine.


I'm replying to the guy who says to buy a replacement brick from eBay. I'm not talking about the bricks that come with the monitors from Korea.


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> I'm replying to the guy who says to buy a replacement brick from eBay. I'm not talking about the bricks that come with the monitors from Korea.


Yeah, we were talking about Power Bricks and not the actual monitors. The replacement Power Brick is indeed, Made in China. However, the connecter is for US outlets and I believe the one that comes with the original monitors is for European/Asian markets.

This may not be the cause of the above problem, but I'm just clarifying.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I think the best bet is to buy monitors listed with 110-120V+ adapters in the first place. I know there are some 190V+ Loadus adapters that come with a "110V Is Acceptable" (in truth, we use 120V) sticker, but I'm not sure if I can personally trust it. Sure it will work at 120V, but for how long? If an adapter ends up dying, the eBay replacement is certainly useful (or if you already own a monitor that came with a 190V+ adapter because you didn't check). Listings with 110V+ adapters tend to be a bit more expensive, so some U.S. people end up with 190V+ adapters unwittingly, trying to save money.

My comment was more in parallel with another comment I'd read about a guy who substituted his original Korean *working* adapter another he found on-line, saying it was better quality, and someone replied "So you've substituted a Korean adapter with a Chinese one."







The truth is, we don't know which of these adapters are better quality, and I wish some kind soul would do a comparative analysis of all these adapter internals for science! (Loadus, Welltronics, Nanjing Frontek - not suitable for long use for the U.S. customers, the eBay one, etc.)


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> I wish some kind soul would do a comparative analysis of all these adapter internals for science! (Loadus, Welltronics, Nanjing Frontek - not suitable for long use for the U.S. customers, the eBay one, etc.)


Ha. That would be awesome.


----------



## anticommon

I second this. Hopefully my adapter comes in saying that 110v is fine... I ordered mine from lightspace and they didn't offer 'pixel perfect' versions of this monitor so I'm thinking that I could *knock on wood* get a really great monitor.

As a side note, does anyone here know how tall the 27Q LED monitor is? I have a maximum height of just shy of 18"/45cm to work with. Hopefully it fits.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So i got my CrossOver 27Q (non pivet model) today, after all the screw ups canada post had, but she arrived perfect, i plugged her in and turned her on and tested for dead/stuck pixels, and there is ZERO DEAD/STUCK PIXELS!!!!!








Im so happy i ordered my non-pixel perfect from red-cap, i will post pics abit later


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So i got my CrossOver 27Q (non pivet model) today, after all the screw ups canada post had, but she arrived perfect, i plugged her in and turned her on and tested for dead/stuck pixels, and there is ZERO DEAD/STUCK PIXELS!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im so happy i ordered my non-pixel perfect from red-cap, i will post pics abit later


Could you please measure the height of the monitor? I would greatly appreciate it


----------



## Qu1ckset

So im very impressed with this monitor after gaming and testing her out, the colors seem perfect i dont see any blue dominance like others complained about, the brick is running at a normal temp, and im so happy i have no dead pixels, not bad for $390CAD @ my door































































i don't know why the screen has an awkward shape in the pics lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Could you please measure the height of the monitor? I would greatly appreciate it


and sorry man i dont have a tape measure at the moment


----------



## Kuad

27Q is 44 cm tall, and like 64 cm wide


----------



## Lholozon86

Wicked, well, I hope to god I get the same condition with my monitor, spend $363 CAD, seller Green-sum.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> 27Q is 44 cm tall, and like 64 cm wide


Wowee... I've got 45.25cm of clearance. Thanks for the info!


----------



## OPENbracket

I'm starting to get alot of flickering, and its bumming me out tbh. The first week of owning this Crossover, I did not flicker at all. Then it started flickering occasionally, like once a day. Now I notice it several times an hour, especially on google or when my monitor is lit up (white background). Any suggestions?

May sound odd, but can any of you owners, after around 5 hours+ of having the monitor on, smell the top at the ventilation holes. For me it smells similar to electronics frying.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> I'm starting to get alot of flickering, and its bumming me out tbh. The first week of owning this Crossover, I did not flicker at all. Then it started flickering occasionally, like once a day. Now I notice it several times an hour, especially on google or when my monitor is lit up (white background). Any suggestions?
> May sound odd, but can any of you owners, after around 5 hours+ of having the monitor on, smell the top at the ventilation holes. For me it smells similar to electronics frying.


I find that the 'electronics frying' smell is pretty normal even when my electronics aren't frying. However, your issue may be related to your power brick. If, however, you already have a 120v compatible (if you're in the US) power brick, then you should contact the seller and tell them what's up. They might be willing to do an exchange on the monitor for you. If not, then perhaps squaretrade?


----------



## OPENbracket

I bought the monitor from accessorieswhole, and contacted him about the flickering about an hour ago, I'm not sure what sort of response ill get.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So im very impressed with this monitor after gaming and testing her out, the colors seem perfect i dont see any blue dominance like others complained about, the brick is running at a normal temp, and im so happy i have no dead pixels, not bad for $390CAD @ my door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know why the screen has an awkward shape in the pics lol
> and sorry man i dont have a tape measure at the moment


Why does it say Full HD 1080p on the box?


----------



## anticommon

It also says HDMI. Something tells me these are... LIES.


----------



## Sazexa

I still wish they kept the older logo. xD


----------



## Lholozon86

Well, my item JUST arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.), 14 hours after it being departed from some facility in Seoul. I thought DHL was efficient with their shipping? What gives? Testing the monitors? I hope they were lol.


----------



## Gallien

Mine went from South Korea to the sorting facility 20min away from me in a total 16 hours. It has sat there ever since even after clearing customs







. Scheduled delivery is Thursday. Someone explain how it makes it thousands of miles in hours but takes two days to go 15miles lol


----------



## champers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I still wish they kept the older logo. xD


The fact that the design has changed should really be reflected in the thread's initial post.


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> It also says HDMI. Something tells me these are... LIES.


haha it also talks up analog HDTV and S/PDIF. I had a good chuckle when I read all the random not present features they put on the box.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Mine went from South Korea to the sorting facility 20min away from me in a total 16 hours. It has sat there ever since even after clearing customs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Scheduled delivery is Thursday. Someone explain how it makes it thousands of miles in hours but takes two days to go 15miles lol


That's ironic eh? Well again maybe they were re-testing these monitors before being shipped. Well customs might get ugly, but anyways yeah I am excited for my monitor man, can't wait to place it on my narrow desk in my small confined room lol.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Mine went from South Korea to the sorting facility 20min away from me in a total 16 hours. It has sat there ever since even after clearing customs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Scheduled delivery is Thursday. Someone explain how it makes it thousands of miles in hours but takes two days to go 15miles lol


Sorry, I didn't read your quote properly, let me explain from my understanding. I believe it's all the doings from customs checking through foreign items to see if it is accessible in the country, or they could be holding it for whatever reason, customs can get ugly sometimes. My item hasn't been processed in Incheon yet, and it has been 5 hours lol, but maybe it's during departure time.


----------



## Gallien

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

11 With delivery courier KENNER, LA - USA 10:22

Out of Customs!








Hoping it's here today. Tomorrow by the latest


----------



## OPENbracket

Well as I posted yesterday about the backlight flickering issues, today they continued until around after an hour of use my monitor just completely went black. A few moments before that it flickered between the lowest brightness and black then poof. The power indicater on the bottom right is still blue, however no pictures. Today is the 31st day after I bought the monitor. I contacted accessorieswhole, asking describing the situation and asking if possible that I buy another 27q, but them provide a return label with it so I can swap the old with the new, which I think is more then reasonable.


----------



## Humafold

So, what do you guys use to clean your screen? I tried using the Endust LCD wipes, but they leave a streak. Then, I go over it with a microfiber cloth, but I don't think the streaks are coming off. Should I just be using the cloth?

I like it to be nice and shiny


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So im very impressed with this monitor after gaming and testing her out, the colors seem perfect i dont see any blue dominance like others complained about, the brick is running at a normal temp, and im so happy i have no dead pixels, not bad for $390CAD @ my door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *i don't know why the screen has an awkward shape in the pics lol*
> and sorry man i dont have a tape measure at the moment


It's your camera lens, mine are all corrected in the software and you can only do that if you shot in RAW format. If you have a digital camera. Too bad.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> It's your camera lens, mine are all corrected in the software and you can only do that if you shot in RAW format. If you have a digital camera. Too bad.


im just using the 8mp camera on my galaxy note lol


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Mine went from South Korea to the sorting facility 20min away from me in a total 16 hours. It has sat there ever since even after clearing customs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Scheduled delivery is Thursday. Someone explain how it makes it thousands of miles in hours but takes two days to go 15miles lol


Well, lucky you for getting a tracking number that at least lets you know where its at. I ordered sunday, confirmed paypal payment monday morning, and was REALLY hoping for it to be here today (since I got the shipping confirmation like 30 mins after I confirmed payment).

Alas, I don't even know where my monitor is. I have a clickable tracking number, but no other details on the shipping carrier or anything other than 'Korea Post'. Supposedly this is express 2 day shipping...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Well, lucky you for getting a tracking number that at least lets you know where its at. I ordered sunday, confirmed paypal payment monday morning, and was REALLY hoping for it to be here today (since I got the shipping confirmation like 30 mins after I confirmed payment).
> Alas, I don't even know where my monitor is. I have a clickable tracking number, but no other details on the shipping carrier or anything other than 'Korea Post'. Supposedly this is express 2 day shipping...


take that tracking number and put it in your local mailing service ex. usps or canada post and it will tell you where it is


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> take that tracking number and put it in your local mailing service ex. usps or canada post and it will tell you where it is


Tried USPS, UPS, DHL, FedEX, and nada.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Tried USPS, UPS, DHL, FedEX, and nada.


who is it being shipped with?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Ok so after gaming a abit on my crossover a found on dark levels in bf3 (the night missions) the backlight in the bottom left and bottom right make it kind of hard to see in the very left and right bottom corners, dont get me wrong its not bad or anything but was just curious if there is anything to bring up the colors so the dark colors dont get drowned out down there?
i turned the brightness down on my screen (which was way to high anyways) didnt do much, and turning up the brightness in the in-game settings didnt do much, anything else i can do?


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> who is it being shipped with?


Korea Post.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ok so after gaming a abit on my crossover a found on dark levels in bf3 (the night missions) the backlight in the bottom left and bottom right make it kind of hard to see in the very left and right bottom corners, dont get me wrong its not bad or anything but was just curious if there is anything to bring up the colors so the dark colors dont get drowned out down there?
> i turned the brightness down on my screen (which was way to high anyways) didnt do much, and turning up the brightness in the in-game settings didnt do much, anything else i can do?


Contrast ratio? I'm not 100% sure if this can be adjusted via CCC/nvidia control panel/etc. but I'd think so.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Korea Post.
> Contrast ratio? I'm not 100% sure if this can be adjusted via CCC/nvidia control panel/etc. but I'd think so.


What country are you in?


----------



## champers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Ok so after gaming a abit on my crossover a found on dark levels in bf3 (the night missions) the backlight in the bottom left and bottom right make it kind of hard to see in the very left and right bottom corners, dont get me wrong its not bad or anything but was just curious if there is anything to bring up the colors so the dark colors dont get drowned out down there?
> i turned the brightness down on my screen (which was way to high anyways) didnt do much, and turning up the brightness in the in-game settings didnt do much, anything else i can do?


Raise gamma in game maybe.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> What country are you in?


The US.


----------



## champers

After a month of research, I just pulled the trigger on a Crossover 27q led-p from accessorieswhole's Amazon store front (having $250 in gift cards was nice). I'm very excited now and hoping for a great monitor


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> The US.


So.you should be able to go on the united states postal services website and use the tracking number and it should give you an update


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So.you should be able to go on the united states postal services website and use the tracking number and it should give you an update


This website may also be of help: www.track-trace.com/post You can use it to track directly from Korea; clicking on the options allows you to track through USPS as well. Hope this helps.


----------



## derickwm

Got mine in a couple days ago.

Absolutely perfect. No dead pixels or any light bleeding.


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> Got mine in a couple days ago.
> 
> Absolutely perfect. No dead pixels or any light bleeding.


I think your logo is different then mine. The "O" in your's is an "8" and I think mine is just the "O".

My box didn't come wrapped like yours and there was no fragile sticker. The box itself looked like someone beat the hell out of it. I was worried. However, I got a pefect pixel with no light bleeding as well. Do you know how to tilt it back/up? I'm trying to get it on a slight angle because it's straight up now. Do I have to remove a screw or something?

Last, anyone have a recommendation for cleaning the screen? I posted above that I tried using Endust LCD wipes but it leaves streaks.









EDIT: Just a note: the inside of my box was the same, but actually had extra padding. Those plastic baggies filled with air were surrounding the monitor. I know dream-seller opened it to check it for me.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I'm very impressed with all the crossovers with zero dead pixels and no backlight bleed, seems a good batch is going threw, like I understand they prolly check for bad backlight bleed but I haven't anyone say they have two or more dead pixels..
If your one of those people thinking about buying a crossover Id buy one now while this batch is still available


----------



## champers

Woke up this morning to see that my monitor was shipped Intl Economy instead of Intl Priority, what the hell AW!


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> I'm very impressed with all the crossovers with zero dead pixels and no backlight bleed, seems a good batch is going threw, like I understand they prolly check for bad backlight bleed but I haven't anyone say they have two or more dead pixels..
> If your one of those people thinking about buying a crossover Id buy one now while this batch is still available


Mine took some extra time to ship and to be delivered. I think 8/9 days in total including the holiday. Apparently, there were a lot of bad monitors being sent from the factory to the sellers and they were sending them back and waiting for new ones. Sometimes waiting the extra time is worth it.

When they say 2-day shipping I think they mean once the item is shipped it should be at your home in two days. It's two days travel time from the ship date. It doesn't mean that if you order Tuesday the monitor will be at your home Thursday.


----------



## OPENbracket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Got mine in a couple days ago.
> Absolutely perfect. No dead pixels or any light bleeding.


Same thing happened to me, perfect monitor with no flaws. Then you have to ask yourself, why is this panel not considered an A+ panel, and only an A or A-? After 3 weeks of having mine, the panel started flickering. Keep an eye out and hope nothing is wrong with it. To be honest, I would rather have a few dead pixles for some peace of mind, but call me crazy.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> Same thing happened to me, perfect monitor with no flaws. Then you have to ask yourself, why is this panel not considered an A+ panel, and only an A or A-? After 3 weeks of having mine, the panel started flickering. Keep an eye out and hope nothing is wrong with it. To be honest, I would rather have a few dead pixles for some peace of mind, but call me crazy.


Ya but not alot of people are having the same issue, so its just bad luck, as long as she lasts me two years I'm good, I eventually I wanna grab a U3011 or a the newer model if they ever release one, unless the 4k screens hit the market by then


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *champers*
> 
> Woke up this morning to see that my monitor was shipped Intl Economy instead of Intl Priority, what the hell AW!


Don't freak out - Intl. Economy is very quick too.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Got mine in a couple days ago.
> Absolutely perfect. No dead pixels or any light bleeding.


Who'd you go for?

Just bear in mind guys, AW doesn't have any pixel perfect monitors in stock at the moment - check their listing page. They kept the listing up, but have mentioned they don't have any more stock for a while.


----------



## Lholozon86

Surprisingly my monitor will arrive at my doorstep tonight or tomorrow the latest. I'll take pics when I get it. By the way has anyone ever had any issues or is happy with their monitors from green-sum?


----------



## Humafold

Can someone please tell me how to do this with my monitor? Do I just push it or do I need to remove a screw? It seems pretty tough to tilt it without a lot of pressure.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Can someone please tell me how to do this with my monitor? Do I just push it or do I need to remove a screw? It seems pretty tough to tilt it without a lot of pressure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mine comes in today so I'll investigate, but from reviews I have seen there is a silver pin on the rear bottom of the stand?


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> Mine comes in today so I'll investigate, but from reviews I have seen there is a silver pin on the rear bottom of the stand?


Hmm. That sounds like it would be for the Pivot. I wonder if that's for Tilt too.


----------



## anticommon

I'm still bumming out that I have no way to track my package and it's been three days since it shipped... I would feel so much better if I just knew when it was going to be here. I've had packages come from china and they said it would be 8-10 days shipping and it literally arrived in the morning early the second day after I hard placed my order late at night. They even gave me a working tracking number too! But now? I'm in the dark.


----------



## Lholozon86

Lol mine came early today, but I missed it kuz I was at work, gotta have it by tomorrow or I will have to wait till Monday.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> Lol mine came early today, but I missed it kuz I was at work, gotta have it by tomorrow or I will have to wait till Monday.


Which carrier is delivering yours? Did they leave you a note or did the tracking tell you that it was missed?


----------



## Gallien

Mine came in today from BCC. Flawless. Panel is defect free, structure is well made, the monitor adjustments move with ease and are very sturdy. Packaging was excellent as well. The only gripe I have is the glow from IPS when you have a monitor close to you, but that's the nature of all IPS panels, I'll get use to it







TIME TO START GAMING!! If you guys want any pics or have any questions I will be happy to answer.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Can someone please tell me how to do this with my monitor? Do I just push it or do I need to remove a screw? It seems pretty tough to tilt it without a lot of pressure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I completely removed the screw from the rear bottom area of the stand and it moves effortlessly now, but still remains sturdy enough for me


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humafold*
> 
> Can someone please tell me how to do this with my monitor? Do I just push it or do I need to remove a screw? It seems pretty tough to tilt it without a lot of pressure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Silver screw is there for transportation or moving to another desk. You have to remove it. There is a label tag you can read..... read reaaaddddd reeaaaddd


----------



## Althulas

An review of the DGM badged version of the crossover is up on TFT Central worth a read http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dgm_ips-2701wph.htm.


----------



## Humafold

Quote:


> Silver screw is there for transportation or moving to another desk. You have to remove it. There is a label tag you can read..... read reaaaddddd reeaaaddd


Yeah, I read it. I removed the screw like Gallien said and it seems to work fine now with pivot and raise/lower, but I thought it would tilt more. I think I have max tilt. it's good now, but I was hoping to tilt just a little more. Overall, this is one of the best purchases I ever made for my computer.

Now I need to figure out how to clean it!


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> An review of the DGM badged version of the crossover is up on TFT Central worth a read http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dgm_ips-2701wph.htm.


This seems like a completely different monitor. (might share the same panel, but other than that...)


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Which carrier is delivering yours? Did they leave you a note or did the tracking tell you that it was missed?


DHL, yeah they knew that it was a miss, they left a yellow dhl tag on the front door. Wasn't happy. I called telling them that the only way for me to retrieve my item is if I pick it up myself, because of my work schedule I won't be able to get it from delivery.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> DHL, yeah they knew that it was a miss, they left a yellow dhl tag on the front door. Wasn't happy. I called telling them that the only way for me to retrieve my item is if I pick it up myself, because of my work schedule I won't be able to get it from delivery.


DHL usually re-delivers next day. You could leave the slip they left signed, and they'll drop off the monitor without your presence. Alternatively, you could ask a friend or neighbor to pick it up and hold it for you, once it's dropped off (or make a note to DHL to deliver to a friend or neighbor).


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> DHL usually re-delivers next day. You could leave the slip they left signed, and they'll drop off the monitor without your presence. Alternatively, you could ask a friend or neighbor to pick it up and hold it for you, once it's dropped off (or make a note to DHL to deliver to a friend or neighbor).


I could try that.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> I could try that.


It depends on what they've doing though, if they are stepping out the that could be a problem, but whatever.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Detailed photos of the white CrossOver please!!


----------



## Snupple

Hi,

Quick question..

The AC adaptor on the 2720, is the AC cable changeable? and if so, which of the below plugs does it use ?

Tx - Rick


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snupple*
> 
> Hi,
> Quick question..
> The AC adaptor on the 2720, is the AC cable changeable? and if so, which of the below plugs does it use ?
> Tx - Rick


Check the Power Brick section: All the info are there and it should be the same for all Crossover unless there is real technical differences. http://www.overclock.net/t/1280755/review-tests-crossover-27q-led-p-pivot-edition-gallery-with-apple-cinema-display

I circle it in yellow.


----------



## Cherimoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snupple*
> 
> Hi,
> Quick question..
> The AC adaptor on the 2720, is the AC cable changeable? and if so, which of the below plugs does it use ?
> Tx - Rick


Yes it is changeable and it's the three pinned one ( actually mine doesn't look exactly like your photo but I assume it is the same)


----------



## anticommon

So I figured out why there was no tracking information. The seller just shipped the item out TODAY. After I ordered it on Sunday.


----------



## bestbright

Cannot believe how fast mine got here. Ordered about 2pm on Wednesday, delivered 9:49am today (Friday). All the way from Korea to Virginia and it was faster than Amazon Prime shipping.


----------



## whitek

Does anyone have the dimensions of the box the Crossover is shipped in?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bestbright*
> 
> Cannot believe how fast mine got here. Ordered about 2pm on Wednesday, delivered 9:49am today (Friday). All the way from Korea to Virginia and it was faster than Amazon Prime shipping.


In the East, shipping services works on weekend and overnight. They manage to cut down all the delay except here in Americas... people don't work on weekend unless you pay them more. The cut off time is 5-6pm... and they are dam expensive here as well.

Shipping back the same box costs $50-70 USD.

/facepalm

This is why many things are being outsourced for lower cost products. Yep... like we are buying from Korea instead of local produced.


----------



## champers

The FedEx tracker for my monitor put delivery at next Wednesday. Imagine my face seeing that it's out for delivery at 8 AM today!


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *champers*
> 
> The FedEx tracker for my monitor put delivery at next Wednesday. Imagine my face seeing that it's out for delivery at 8 AM today!


Everyone but me is getting great shipping speeds. Day 4 and my monitor is still in Seoul, not to mention nobody is going to deliver/be working in the states over the weekend.


----------



## KickingArs

I feel ppl are posting too much on shipping/tracking here as if it's the first time they purchase something online, from oversea.

I think shipping is rarely an issue here.

The biggest issue is the quality of these monitors.

So instead of posting that you just placed a order, or you are waiting for shipping, or you are actively tracking it, would you please post your test on things like dead/stuck pixel, color tint, blackllight bleeding after you receive it?


----------



## Sazexa

I've been debating between this monitor and a sound card for so long now. I still can't decide.


----------



## Vimm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I've been debating between this monitor and a sound card for so long now. I still can't decide.


Well I'd say you take the opportunity to buy the monitor now while the price is cheaper than usual. 30$ cheaper from the seller "red-cap" as an example.


----------



## bestbright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickingArs*
> 
> instead of posting that you just placed a order, or you are waiting for shipping, or you are actively tracking it, would you please post your test on things like dead/stuck pixel, color tint, blackllight bleeding after you receive it?


Alright mate, you win.

I got the 27q. Mine seems to have some minor backlight bleed. In some places around the edge a couple pixels are a bit brighter than they should be. It's barely noticeable, although there is also a 1-by-1/2 inch spot at the top that's more pronounced.

Doesn't seem to be any dead or stuck pixels. None. Neato.

I removed the stand and screwed it into my ergotron vesa arm. I almost s**t myself because afterwards it would not power on. I guess a screw shorted something out, because luckily backing off the screws a bit fixed the problem.

So, be careful with those screws! I'm going to look for some washers that fit and redo them.

I also had a hell of a time getting linux to use the panel's native resolution instead of 640x480, but I think that might be nvidia's fault. The nvidia driver claims the EDID data is bogus but it's obviously working fine for everyone in Windows.

I found a fix over in the catleap thread. This modeline works:

Code:



Code:


Modeline "2560x1440_60.00" 241.50 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 +HSync -VSync

Overall I am impressed and thinking about buying another.


----------



## KickingArs

I think "perfect pixel" is just a trick from these Korean seller to sell more. Many seller claim that they will open the box to run some test, but this test is mostly used to detect obvious issues such as not working or too many dead pixels, but I don't think this kind of test can guarantee perfect pixel.

Those who received a monitor of perfect pixel is not because the monitor has been really tested for "perfect pixel", but because the majority of these monitors are perfect pixel (some said over 85%). While if you received a monitor with dead pixel, what's the option you have? Most likely the seller will compensate you something like $10 per dead pixel. I doubt they will offer you free shipping for return.

Therefore, I would not buy monitor listed as"Perfect Pixel". Moreover, I will not buy from a seller who is listing non-"Perfect Pixel" and "Perfect Pixel" at the same time, because after the open box test, the chance for those monitor listed as "perfect pixel" being DOA, or having many dead pixels is decreased, but those monitors which are found dead pixels (less than 5, if over 5 the monitor will be sent back to factory) will be put in their normal stock (non-perfect pixel listing) , so the chance of getting a monitor with more dead pixel for normal stock from the same seller is also increased.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickingArs*
> 
> I think "perfect pixel" is just a trick from these Korean seller to sell more. Many seller claim that they will open the box to run some test, but this test is mostly used to detect obvious issues such as not working or too many dead pixels, but I don't think this kind of test can guarantee perfect pixel.
> Those who received a monitor of perfect pixel is not because the monitor has been really tested for "perfect pixel", but because the majority of these monitors are perfect pixel (some said over 85%). While if you received a monitor with dead pixel, what's the option you have? Most likely the seller will compensate you something like $10 per dead pixel. I doubt they will offer you free shipping for return.
> Therefore, I would not buy monitor listed as"Perfect Pixel". Moreover, I will not buy from a seller who is listing non-"Perfect Pixel" and "Perfect Pixel" at the same time, because after the open box test, the chance for those monitor listed as "perfect pixel" being DOA, or having many dead pixels is decreased, but those monitors which are found dead pixels (less than 5, if over 5 the monitor will be sent back to factory) will be put in their normal stock (non-perfect pixel listing) , so the chance of getting a monitor with more dead pixel for normal stock from the same seller is also increased.


My thoughts exactly. This is also why I sought out a seller who did not feature 'pixel perfect' versions of this monitor. However they did have one that you could BIN for $344.80 and one where you could send an offer. I ended up paying #341.00 from lightn.space, and they have been pretty good so far... except for the fact that 5 days later it's still in korea.


----------



## champers

Initial opinions of the monitor are highly positive. I haven't had the opportunity to play around with it much, but it looks fantastic. Backlight bleed is present, but minor and mostly above the backlight control buttons on the bottom right of the screen. There is one dead pixel immediately above the clock in windows 7, so it's not a problem for me at all and is hardly noticable. Haven't had a chance to calibrate yet. Box arrived with a single layer of bubble wrap around it (significantly less than what I've seen others post pictures of) and one small hole in it, but it wasn't near the screen.

The best thing is that I don't see any yellowing, which was my main concern. I can ignore a dead pixel or two, but yellowing on the screen would have driven me up a wall.


----------



## TarballX

Unfortunately this yellow tinting keeps bugging me.. apparently it's not as easy to ignore as I thought it would be.
Guess it's time to contact AW again and see if I can get them to take it back.. It's kind of a shame considering the monitor only has 1 dead pixel otherwise.


----------



## Ftruck

Champers mine has that same bleed in the bottom right corner. I don't think it is backlight bleed per se but rather bleed from that crazy bright blue power LED. If it really starts to bother me I'll try disconnecting that LED to see if it solves the problem.


----------



## LC155

Thing is, the pixel perfect versions are listed as pixel pefect. If they're not, paypal/ebay has your back, and you can claim.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Unfortunately this yellow tinting keeps bugging me.. apparently it's not as easy to ignore as I thought it would be.
> Guess it's time to contact AW again and see if I can get them to take it back.. It's kind of a shame considering the monitor only has 1 dead pixel otherwise.


Have you considered tuning the colors so that yellow is less prominent?


----------



## Lholozon86

Just got mine today, I am so happy with mine, tested it as well, looks like the monitor is perfect, aside from the small backlight on the bottom right, but overall I think it's a nice monitor. The back is metal, to me it's cheap lol, obviously but still it's a nice monitor.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Have you considered tuning the colors so that yellow is less prominent?


The yellow that people talk about is a non-uniform splotchy tint. Sure, you can "tune" the colors with various calibration profiles, but you will still have a non-uniform screen. In some cases, it's very obvious. And when the rest of your screen looks great, but you have a visible yellow band at the bottom or some such (I had that), I don't think it can be fixed with calibration.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> The yellow that people talk about is a non-uniform splotchy tint. Sure, you can "tune" the colors with various calibration profiles, but you will still have a non-uniform screen. In some cases, it's very obvious. And when the rest of your screen looks great, but you have a visible yellow band at the bottom or some such (I had that), I don't think it can be fixed with calibration.


Unless there was an app where you could calibrate a specific 'section' of your screen, but alas that seems like a more complicated solution than people would want as opposed to getting a panel that is uniform in color. Sure hope mine doesn't have that.


----------



## champers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *champers*
> 
> Initial opinions of the monitor are highly positive. I haven't had the opportunity to play around with it much, but it looks fantastic. Backlight bleed is present, but minor and mostly above the backlight control buttons on the bottom right of the screen. There is one dead pixel immediately above the clock in windows 7, so it's not a problem for me at all and is hardly noticable. Haven't had a chance to calibrate yet. Box arrived with a single layer of bubble wrap around it (significantly less than what I've seen others post pictures of) and one small hole in it, but it wasn't near the screen.
> The best thing is that I don't see any yellowing, which was my main concern. I can ignore a dead pixel or two, but yellowing on the screen would have driven me up a wall.


I forgot to mention that I bought the monitor NON-pixel perfect from Accessorieswhole on Amazon. They gave me 2 microfiber cloths in the box as well, which I haven't seen anyone mention receiving before.

Also, The monitor is within millimeters of being the same height as my current Gateway FHD2400 (24" 1200p) and the pixels on that monitor look as big as bricks to me already!


----------



## Lholozon86

IMG_0353[1].JPG 1982k .JPG file


IMG_0355[1].JPG 1766k .JPG file

Here's my monitor, good seller and efficient shipping, thanks Green-Sum, or shall I say 감사합니다
I do got a bit of back light bleeding from the bottom right, but I think it is in most crossover monitors.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> IMG_0353[1].JPG 1982k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_0355[1].JPG 1766k .JPG file
> 
> Here's my monitor, good seller and efficient shipping, thanks Green-Sum, or shall I say 감사합니다
> I do got a bit of back light bleeding from the bottom right, but I think it is in most crossover monitors.


Sorry I don't know how to insert pictures on Overclock.net


----------



## Sazexa

In the chat form, there is a little button to the right of the paper clip. It looks like a little picture. Use that next time. ;]

But the monitor looks nice, as they all do.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Have you considered tuning the colors so that yellow is less prominent?


Like ElevenEleven said, those settings effect the whole screen, which doesn't really help when it's only a specific part of the monitor doing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> Unless there was an app where you could calibrate a specific 'section' of your screen, but alas that seems like a more complicated solution than people would want as opposed to getting a panel that is uniform in color. Sure hope mine doesn't have that.


Honestly, if there was such an app, I'd be all for using that.


----------



## Mkilbride

So is this yellow light bleed on all Crossovers?


----------



## Jarrod Au

I received my two monitors today and the packaging was absolutely thrashed ,one of the cardboard boxes had a big hole in it, they are both all mangled and have footprints all over them.
I have opened one box and the monitor frame has damage to the bottom left corner that looks like it has been occurred from a fall. The damage was serious enough to rip two screws out of the stand and leave the metal housing frame lodged in to the screens bezel.

I'm guessing this happened because they were combined shipped, and because the boxes don't have any handles this was quite a difficult to lift package. So guys if you order more than one I recommend you choose they be sent separately ( he did ask me how I wanted it sent, I wasn't bothered and just said what ever was easier for him)

Seller: dream-seller


----------



## Mkilbride

Dream seller? Ahh, good to know, I plan to get mine from Accessoriesguy.

Are these 27'' Viewable inches or 27'' including bezel?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> So is this yellow light bleed on all Crossovers?


I ordered a non perfect pixel for redcap who was the cheapest at the time and got no backlight bleed, and have zero dead pixels, and the box was mint.


----------



## Diggz

Just ordered the Crossover 2720MDP from bigclothcraft. Hopefully it gets here ok and is in good condition!

Question though...is the 2720MDP 8 or 10bit? And is it 16.7mil or 1.07bil color support? This spec seems to fluctuate in different places I look.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarrod Au*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received my two monitors today and the packaging was absolutely thrashed ,one of the cardboard boxes had a big hole in it, they are both all mangled and have footprints all over them.
> I have opened one box and the monitor frame has damage to the bottom left corner that looks like it has been occurred from a fall. The damage was serious enough to rip two screws out of the stand and leave the metal housing frame lodged in to the screens bezel.
> I'm guessing this happened because they were combined shipped, and because the boxes don't have any handles this was quite a difficult to lift package. So guys if you order more than one I recommend you choose they be sent separately ( he did ask me how I wanted it sent, I wasn't bothered and just said what ever was easier for him)
> Seller: dream-seller


Ouch, well I use to work at the airport and dealt with cargo as well, and from my experiences, baggage/cargo handlers don't treat your items well, all because they are rushing to get longer breaks hahahahaha, at least from where I worked. They must have shoved your Crossover box in the corner of the bellyside along with the other boxes, or kicked it, or thrown it. My box had a little bend on it, but my monitor is crispy clean and brand new. But it sucks that your metal housing frame was bend. What carrier shipped your monitor?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> So is this yellow light bleed on all Crossovers?


27" viewable.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jarrod Au*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received my two monitors today and the packaging was absolutely thrashed ,one of the cardboard boxes had a big hole in it, they are both all mangled and have footprints all over them.
> I have opened one box and the monitor frame has damage to the bottom left corner that looks like it has been occurred from a fall. The damage was serious enough to rip two screws out of the stand and leave the metal housing frame lodged in to the screens bezel.
> I'm guessing this happened because they were combined shipped, and because the boxes don't have any handles this was quite a difficult to lift package. So guys if you order more than one I recommend you choose they be sent separately ( he did ask me how I wanted it sent, I wasn't bothered and just said what ever was easier for him)
> Seller: dream-seller


Holy jesus!


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> So is this yellow light bleed on all Crossovers?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I ordered a non perfect pixel for redcap who was the cheapest at the time and got no backlight bleed, and have zero dead pixels, and the box was mint.


It's not yellow light bleed, it's just a yellowish tint over certain parts of the screen. And no, I doubt it's on all of them. Probably just bad luck.


----------



## Humafold

My box looked similar to that as well. It wasn't as bad, but it was very close. Luckily though, my monitor was in perfect condition, but I was worried. I also ordered from dream-seller. My monitor has no back light bleed and 0 dead pixels though. He also put extra padding inside my box around the monitor. Those little air baggies.


----------



## Jarrod Au

Lholozon86: They were sent via DHL to Australia. Yes thats what i expect has happend.

I just unboxed the other monitor and the stand is bent out of place -_-. Im going to contact dream-seller and see if he can do anything about these.


----------



## Mkilbride

Ek, alot of Dream Seller issues here.

I got mine from the Accessories people. Official dealers and whatnot, 3 dead pixels maximum and it's the LED-P version. Should ship Monday and be here before Tuesday.


----------



## Snupple

Trying to decide 27Q or 2720mdp, but still not sure what the difference are?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snupple*
> 
> Trying to decide 27Q or 2720mdp, but still not sure what the difference are?


2720MDP GOLD LED (product page)
LCD type: LG S-IPS 10-bit LED
Viewable image size: 27.0"
Pixel area: 0.2331mm²
Max brightness: 420 cd/m²
Contrast ratio: 1000:1
Color support: 1 billion
Color gamut: 72%
Resolution: 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz
Horizontal frequency: 30 ~ 81kHz
Vertical frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
Response time: 6ms (GTG)
Viewing angle: 178°/178°
Video ports: (1) DVI (dual-link), (1) Display Port, (2) HDMI, (1) D-sub, Component
Additional ports: SPDIF, PC audio
Speaker: 14W (7W+7W, stereo)
Power source: DC 24V 5A
Power consumption: 95W (max), 65W (nominal), 3W (standby)
VESA support: Yes (100 x 100 mm)
Display measurements: 650 (W) X 405 (H) X 490 (T) mm

Main differences I see...10-bit panel. DP, HDMI, DSUB, and Component. All adds to input lag. speakers as well. But really, really bad ones from all reviews. Supposedly more color support due to being 10bit.

http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-27/dp/B008B6JM3G

It's also a decent bit more expensive, as far as I can see.

Still, I didn't know about that 10bit...

Kinda wishing I had ordered it almost.

But all those extra inputs...damn.

Just 1 HDMI alone more than doubles the input lag.

But 2 HDMI, Display Port, DVI-D, D-Sub, and Component? That thing must have like 100ms input lag!

Great for oh, picture editors, design artists ,but I guess it would be crap for gaming.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> 2720MDP GOLD LED (product page)
> LCD type: LG S-IPS 10-bit LED
> Viewable image size: 27.0"
> Pixel area: 0.2331mm²
> Max brightness: 420 cd/m²
> Contrast ratio: 1000:1
> Color support: 1 billion
> Color gamut: 72%
> Resolution: 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz
> Horizontal frequency: 30 ~ 81kHz
> Vertical frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
> Response time: 6ms (GTG)
> Viewing angle: 178°/178°
> Video ports: (1) DVI (dual-link), (1) Display Port, (2) HDMI, (1) D-sub, Component
> Additional ports: SPDIF, PC audio
> Speaker: 14W (7W+7W, stereo)
> Power source: DC 24V 5A
> Power consumption: 95W (max), 65W (nominal), 3W (standby)
> VESA support: Yes (100 x 100 mm)
> Display measurements: 650 (W) X 405 (H) X 490 (T) mm
> Main differences I see...10-bit panel. DP, HDMI, DSUB, and Component. All adds to input lag. speakers as well. But really, really bad ones from all reviews. Supposedly more color support due to being 10bit.
> http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-27/dp/B008B6JM3G
> It's also a decent bit more expensive, as far as I can see.
> Still, I didn't know about that 10bit...
> Kinda wishing I had ordered it almost.
> But all those extra inputs...damn.
> Just 1 HDMI alone more than doubles the input lag.
> But 2 HDMI, Display Port, DVI-D, D-Sub, and Component? That thing must have like 100ms input lag!
> Great for oh, picture editors, design artists ,but I guess it would be crap for gaming.


I have no problems with input lag with FPS or Flight Sims on mine. If you look a few pages back I posted a link from TFT Central on the DGM monitor review which has multi inputs. In the review examples are given of what you can expect with any 'ghosting'


----------



## Pengasus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snupple*
> 
> Trying to decide 27Q or 2720mdp, but still not sure what the difference are?


I bought the very basic model of crossover about 2 months ago and have no issues whatsoever.
Seller was very friendly and helped me with my change of order and the request of 0 dead pixels (AT NO EXTRA CHARGE!)
I really do need to get a monitor stand though as it is a hassle lifting the monitor up and changing the way it faces when i want to watch a movie on the bed. It is HEAVY! due to metal frame.
Mind you, the picture quality is mind blowing. I pretty much stopped watching blue-rays on my 40" sony bravia led tv.

I would save the extra few bucks and spend it on a good monitor stand if i were you

Seller was : ta_planet


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> 2720MDP GOLD LED (product page)
> LCD type: LG S-IPS 10-bit LED
> Viewable image size: 27.0"
> Pixel area: 0.2331mm²
> Max brightness: 420 cd/m²
> Contrast ratio: 1000:1
> Color support: 1 billion
> Color gamut: 72%
> Resolution: 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz
> Horizontal frequency: 30 ~ 81kHz
> Vertical frequency: 56 ~ 75Hz
> Response time: 6ms (GTG)
> Viewing angle: 178°/178°
> Video ports: (1) DVI (dual-link), (1) Display Port, (2) HDMI, (1) D-sub, Component
> Additional ports: SPDIF, PC audio
> Speaker: 14W (7W+7W, stereo)
> Power source: DC 24V 5A
> Power consumption: 95W (max), 65W (nominal), 3W (standby)
> VESA support: Yes (100 x 100 mm)
> Display measurements: 650 (W) X 405 (H) X 490 (T) mm
> Main differences I see...10-bit panel. DP, HDMI, DSUB, and Component. All adds to input lag. speakers as well. But really, really bad ones from all reviews. Supposedly more color support due to being 10bit.
> http://www.amazon.com/CROSSOVER-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-27/dp/B008B6JM3G
> It's also a decent bit more expensive, as far as I can see.
> Still, I didn't know about that 10bit...
> Kinda wishing I had ordered it almost.
> But all those extra inputs...damn.
> Just 1 HDMI alone more than doubles the input lag.
> But 2 HDMI, Display Port, DVI-D, D-Sub, and Component? That thing must have like 100ms input lag!
> Great for oh, picture editors, design artists ,but I guess it would be crap for gaming.


Actually the 2720MDP I got has none of these issues. No noticeable input lag when I game. The bad reviews concerned an older batch; the sellers have been selling the new revision for awhile now.

In case you're curious,

review for the old firmware:

http://www.playwares.com/xe/22822289

new firmware:

http://www.playwares.com/xe/22912327

Haven't tested the component input, but I can confirm that DVI, HDMI and DP work. The speakers are subpar though, but you're going to find that on all the current Korean monitors. Just my two cents...


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diggz*
> 
> Just ordered the Crossover 2720MDP from bigclothcraft. Hopefully it gets here ok and is in good condition!
> Question though...is the 2720MDP 8 or 10bit? And is it 16.7mil or 1.07bil color support? This spec seems to fluctuate in different places I look.


True 8-bit means 16.7 millions colors; true 10-bit means 1.07 billion. I'll calibrate my monitor sometime next week, so I'll let you know then whether the specs are accurate.


----------



## Sazexa

I highly doubt the human eye can perceive 16.7 million different colors. Let alone 1.07 billion. So, it more than likely won't matter much. Always seemed like more of a marketing tactic.


----------



## Humafold

I think my eye can tell about 25-35 colors tops. You know... Red, Dark Red, Light Red, Purple, Green, etc.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I highly doubt the human eye can perceive 16.7 million different colors. Let alone 1.07 billion. So, it more than likely won't matter much. Always seemed like more of a marketing tactic.


It helps with banding.

You ever see gradient banding? You probably have...

For me, I started noticing it 4-5 years ago and can't stop noticing it ever since.

10-bit helps / removes that issue almost entirely.

Alas, it's already on it's way and I don't don't feel the 70$ return fee, the extra 60$ or so dollars the MDP seems to have, along with input lag and all that...

End up costing me 110$ + a lot of extra work. Can't see it being worth it.

It's how well colors blend together:



If I had known before hand, I may have gotten the 10bit, as I watch alot of movies on my computer.

But, I also play a lot of games on my computer...and extra input lag, even 1-2 frames more...would be annoying. My current monitor is a TN and I am annoyed by the input lag still, and the Yamasaki only has a little less. I can't imagine doubling it with the extra inputs.

This is banding, and alot of TV's, and most monitors, which are 6-bit, have this in spades unless you use the highest quality source possibly. Very noticable to me, to others, they never see it.


----------



## Lholozon86

I was gaming all weekend with my new monitor till I got so sleepy at nights lol, this monitor is amazing. The frame rate in Battlefield 3 doesn't look......how can I put this? Smooth. All my other games are fantastic running at 2560x1440, what's up with that?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> I was gaming all weekend with my new monitor till I got so sleepy at nights lol, this monitor is amazing. The frame rate in Battlefield 3 doesn't look......how can I put this? Smooth. All my other games are fantastic running at 2560x1440, what's up with that?


What cards do you have?

Cause honestly...

@ 1920 x 1200p,. my 2GB GTX670 was maxed out. I'm going to have to get another GTX670 just to break 60FPS in most games at that resolution now...

I worry about my VRAM.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> I was gaming all weekend with my new monitor till I got so sleepy at nights lol, this monitor is amazing. The frame rate in Battlefield 3 doesn't look......how can I put this? Smooth. All my other games are fantastic running at 2560x1440, what's up with that?


bf3 settings editor

fxaa

Using the above combined. My OC'd setup sees 60+fps on ultra/custom type configuration @1440p


----------



## anticommon

I just got my monitor and it wont turn on... red light only. The stand is twisted so the monitor faces a few degrees off from the stand straight on, and it was packed really well, but apart from that the thing just wonr turn on. Can anyone help? Should I get a power transformer? Where could I get one of those...


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> I just got my monitor and it wont turn on... red light only. The stand is twisted so the monitor faces a few degrees off from the stand straight on, and it was packed really well, but apart from that the thing just wonr turn on. Can anyone help? Should I get a power transformer? Where could I get one of those...


Are you sending a signal to the monitor from your graphics card? I.e. is the monitor plugged in to a Dual-link DVI port on your video card with a proper cable, and the computer is turned on, and you're still getting no signal? It will not turn on without a signal.


----------



## VoidXC

Hey guys. I just got my 27Q LED-P today (from BCC). What was initially an extremely exciting time has turned into frustration. It turns on, my computer detects it, the blue light comes on, the screen brightens a bit, and that's it - no display







. I've fiddled with tons of different settings with the resolution and turning on/off scaling. Have plugged/unplugged it, have tried a different power plug, have tried using only it connected to the computer and doing a fresh start, having a second monitor connected at the same time, and restarting.

I've tried a Windows 7 machine with an Nvidia GTX 260.
I've tried a Mac OS Lion with an 8800GT.
I've tried a Max OS Lion machine with ATI Radeon HD3870.
I've tried an XP machine with an Nvidia Quadro FX 4600.

None have worked. All have exhibited the same blue light, no-display problem.
One thing I have not tried is using a different dual-link DVI cable because I don't have a spare, but it seems to work fine with my other monitors.
Anyone have any suggestions? This really sucks, and BCC even said he would make sure it wasn't DOA before he shipped...


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Are you sending a signal to the monitor from your graphics card? I.e. is the monitor plugged in to a Dual-link DVI port on your video card with a proper cable, and the computer is turned on, and you're still getting no signal? It will not turn on without a signal.


I tried the second DVI port and it worked, the one I first tried must have been single link DVI.

Overall my monitor only has 2 or so dead pixels that are semi-noticeable, but almost look like just a spec of dust... (although it's not, I tried to wipe it/rub it off). To be entirely honest, my last monitor had more smudges that did a lot more in terms of killing the image quality than these two pixels so I'm not worried at all. My stand does however seem to be kinda crooked, I might try to fix it. Then again I can just turn the base a little to the left and it cancels out. No biggie.

One issue that I have noticed though, is that sometimes the image will completely scramble. I think this has only happened right after turning the monitor on, and so far turning it off and then back on fixes the problem.


----------



## VoidXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VoidXC*
> 
> Hey guys. I just got my 27Q LED-P today (from BCC). What was initially an extremely exciting time has turned into frustration. It turns on, my computer detects it, the blue light comes on, the screen brightens a bit, and that's it - no display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've fiddled with tons of different settings with the resolution and turning on/off scaling. Have plugged/unplugged it, have tried a different power plug, have tried using only it connected to the computer and doing a fresh start, having a second monitor connected at the same time, and restarting.
> I've tried a Windows 7 machine with an Nvidia GTX 260.
> I've tried a Mac OS Lion with an 8800GT.
> I've tried a Max OS Lion machine with ATI Radeon HD3870.
> I've tried an XP machine with an Nvidia Quadro FX 4600.
> None have worked. All have exhibited the same blue light, no-display problem.
> One thing I have not tried is using a different dual-link DVI cable because I don't have a spare, but it seems to work fine with my other monitors.
> Anyone have any suggestions? This really sucks, and BCC even said he would make sure it wasn't DOA before he shipped...


Update: I just went out and bought a new DVI-D cable, still doesn't work


----------



## LC155

For the whole 10-bit thing... pretty sure it is mostly useless currently. Hardly anything actually utilises 10 bit, although the banding argument seems very subjective, reminds me of audiophiles.









Compared a 10 bit and an 8 bit side to side?


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> What cards do you have?
> Cause honestly...
> @ 1920 x 1200p,. my 2GB GTX670 was maxed out. I'm going to have to get another GTX670 just to break 60FPS in most games at that resolution now...
> I worry about my VRAM.


I have a 7970, I plan to crossfire it soon.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> I was gaming all weekend with my new monitor till I got so sleepy at nights lol, this monitor is amazing. The frame rate in Battlefield 3 doesn't look......how can I put this? Smooth. All my other games are fantastic running at 2560x1440, what's up with that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> What cards do you have?
> Cause honestly...
> @ 1920 x 1200p,. my 2GB GTX670 was maxed out. I'm going to have to get another GTX670 just to break 60FPS in most games at that resolution now...
> I worry about my VRAM.


Im getting 100fps+ with my gtx690 and im sure turbo boost isnt kicking in

On a serious note, over clock you cpu to at least 4.0Ghz and overclock you 7970 and you will see your frame rate increase


----------



## Sazexa

I myself am wondering what my frames would be. I have an i5 2500k and two 6950's 2GB. On ultra at 1080p I normally get 50 absolute lowest, to 70ish normal, and sometimes upward of 110. But I also leave V-sync enabled. Microstuttering is SOOO noticeable.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I myself am wondering what my frames would be. I have an i5 2500k and two 6950's 2GB. On ultra at 1080p I normally get 50 absolute lowest, to 70ish normal, and sometimes upward of 110. But I also leave V-sync enabled. Microstuttering is SOOO noticeable.


Depends what games you're talking about.

Used to have HD 6970 in Crossfire, I was able to run BF3 near 60 FPS (peak 70). The average is 50FPS at 2560x1440 Ultra setting without AA.

Now single GTX 680 is 60FPS on average and peak is like 90 FPS.

SLI GTX 680... waiting for my next card to come in 1 day or 2. We'll see.

fyi. GTX 680 is twice the performance of HD6970 in Crossfire. SLI GTX680 is like 3 times from what I've seen.

So your HD6950 CFX might be low 40-45FPS average, you need to tone down the setting a bit.


----------



## anticommon

I've currently got an HD6950 2GB that's unlocked and running at 975/1325. I get average frames of around 50 with BF3 at Ultra + 16xAF/4xFSAA.

I just bought a GTX670 on the market place and hope to get at least 60 average with that thing, since it's around 30% more powerful than the 6950.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Im getting 100fps+ with my gtx690 and im sure turbo boost isnt kicking in
> On a serious note, over clock you cpu to at least 4.0Ghz and overclock you 7970 and you will see your frame rate increase


Yes, a 690 is 2x 680's underclocked, so you have double my performance.

With my next check I will order another one + another custom cooler and bam.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Depends what games you're talking about.
> 
> Used to have HD 6970 in Crossfire, I was able to run BF3 near 60 FPS (peak 70). The average is 50FPS at 2560x1440 Ultra setting without AA.
> 
> Now single GTX 680 is 60FPS on average and peak is like 90 FPS.
> 
> SLI GTX 680... waiting for my next card to come in 1 day or 2. We'll see.
> 
> fyi. GTX 680 is twice the performance of HD6970 in Crossfire. SLI GTX680 is like 3 times from what I've seen.
> 
> So your HD6950 CFX might be low 40-45FPS average, you need to tone down the setting a bit.


Well, I suppose they are TECHNICALLY clocked up to 6970's. I think I'd probably get around 55-60 at 2560 x 1440.
If I had my way, I'd have a nice new 680 myself. ;] But I don't have that kind of money. </3


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Im getting 100fps+ with my gtx690 and im sure turbo boost isnt kicking in
> On a serious note, over clock you cpu to at least 4.0Ghz and overclock you 7970 and you will see your frame rate increase
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, a 690 is 2x 680's underclocked, so you have double my performance.
> 
> With my next check I will order another one + another custom cooler and bam.
Click to expand...

GTX 690 is technically GTX 670 SLI. Not 680.


----------



## mistax

recommended seller for 27Q LED-P? also along with that. What would be an good-excellent monitor quality once it arrives? 1-3 dead pixels?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> recommended seller for 27Q LED-P? also along with that. What would be an good-excellent monitor quality once it arrives? 1-3 dead pixels?


A lot of people get zero dead pixels. I'd say you can get real lucky, and get no stuck/dead pixels, with no back-light bleed. Chance around maybe 35%.
1-3 dead/stuck pixels, with no back-light bleed (or vice-versa) chance at around 45%.


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> A lot of people get zero dead pixels. I'd say you can get real lucky, and get no stuck/dead pixels, with no back-light bleed. Chance around maybe 35%.
> 1-3 dead/stuck pixels, with no back-light bleed (or vice-versa) chance at around 45%.


ah i see so it's actually quite common to get an almost perfect screen than. What about seller i've seen assceories, green sum, dcmall. Which seller are people having the best process with.


----------



## Mkilbride

I did Accesories, because they got listed on Amazon as the Official Dealer of these monitors. IT wasn't Amazon Marketplace, either, so Amazon totally has my back, and I trust Amazon so much more than Paypal. Currently, my monitor is in Alaska. Weird place to be, but hey, that's life.

Also, the 2B PCB boards have been sourced - By the end of the year, we can upgrade these and all the 27'' Koreans to 120hz.


----------



## mistax

green sum says aug 9 - aug 22 delivery time what =(


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> green sum says aug 9 - aug 22 delivery time what =(


Yeah, I looked at him. Nuh uh, no way lol.

That's so long!

My Monitor is 30 minutes away from my house now. What a trip it has had, almost overnight!

Quote:


> Jul 23, 2012 3:05 PM
> Picked up
> BUCHEON-SI KR
> 
> Jul 24, 2012 7:05 AM
> At destination sort facility
> LONDONDERRY, NH


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> GTX 690 is technically GTX 670 SLI. Not 680.


Actually the GTX690 is GTX680 SLI with 95% of the performance, GTX 670 SLI is less performance then the 690


----------



## mistax

oh what AW has an option for Grade A+ panels but its 650 @@


----------



## VoidXC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VoidXC*
> 
> Hey guys. I just got my 27Q LED-P today (from BCC). What was initially an extremely exciting time has turned into frustration. It turns on, my computer detects it, the blue light comes on, the screen brightens a bit, and that's it - no display
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've fiddled with tons of different settings with the resolution and turning on/off scaling. Have plugged/unplugged it, have tried a different power plug, have tried using only it connected to the computer and doing a fresh start, having a second monitor connected at the same time, and restarting.
> I've tried a Windows 7 machine with an Nvidia GTX 260.
> I've tried a Mac OS Lion with an 8800GT.
> I've tried a Max OS Lion machine with ATI Radeon HD3870.
> I've tried an XP machine with an Nvidia Quadro FX 4600.
> None have worked. All have exhibited the same blue light, no-display problem.
> One thing I have not tried is using a different dual-link DVI cable because I don't have a spare, but it seems to work fine with my other monitors.
> Anyone have any suggestions? This really sucks, and BCC even said he would make sure it wasn't DOA before he shipped...


Has anyone experienced this problem or is my monitor one of the 7% that was DOA?

Edit: It looks like someone with the username "Decipher" had the same problem and sent it back I think


----------



## Jethric

Ordered the Crossover 27Q Perfect Pixel LED-P from AccessoriesWhole last night (yes I am a sucker for no dead pixels). Either way I look at it it's still half price compared to the u2711







. Anyway, I got a message shortly after payment saying that they are still currently out of stock (that was my fault, I did not read the description on ebay). They said that they should be getting some more next week, so I'll make sure to take pictures and post them here.


----------



## mistax

jethric is that the one with the gaurenteed a+ panel?


----------



## Jethric

Yes, that is the one that AW has claimed uses an A+ panel. We'll just have to wait and see if that is true.


----------



## cee loe

Hello, I was just wondering what one of the 3 major brands would be best for gaming? Crossover ,Achieva ShiMian , or cat? It hard to find any reviews, there all on overclock threads


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cee loe*
> 
> Hello, I was just wondering what one of the 3 major brands would be best for gaming? Crossover ,Achieva ShiMian , or cat? It hard to find any reviews, there all on overclock threads


There all the same, just pick which casing you like better


----------



## Jethric

If you're going to be gaming, any of those should be fine. The only thing you might want to worry about is scaler vs no scaler. Not having a scaler will greatly reduce input lag.


----------



## cee loe

Ok thanks for the quick reply guys, so certain ones will have a scaler? And ill mainly be playing MMO's, GW2 and such. I know my GPU can support the resolution but with what cost you think? GTX 560 ti


----------



## Jethric

Any monitor that has more than that single DVI port will normally have an OSD, scaler, etc.


----------



## cee loe

Ohh ok so just make sure im not buying one with more then just the dvi. Gotcha, thanks again


----------



## djriful

Green-Sum takes 3 weeks?

It took less than 2 days to arrive here.


----------



## felton1592

I'm ready to instantly buy one.

However, one thing holding me back after reading the early pages of this thread are *dead pixels*.

I just can't bare them on something of this price. Does this pixel perfect guarantee a better/perfect panel?

Also, it says postage free. I'm from the UK, so would I have to pay extra costs?

Finally, Why are some going for £240 and others £322, for example?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> I'm ready to instantly buy one.
> 
> However, one thing holding me back after reading the early pages of this thread are *dead pixels*.
> 
> I just can't bare them on something of this price. Does this pixel perfect guarantee a better/perfect panel?
> 
> Also, it says postage free. I'm from the UK, so would I have to pay extra costs?
> 
> Finally, Why are some going for £240 and others £322, for example?


Dead pixel is barely visible on 110 PPI monitor. I have 1 dead on a non-perfect pixel purchase. Pixel Perfect to me is not worth the extra.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> I'm ready to instantly buy one.
> However, one thing holding me back after reading the early pages of this thread are *dead pixels*.
> I just can't bare them on something of this price. Does this pixel perfect guarantee a better/perfect panel?
> Also, it says postage free. I'm from the UK, so would I have to pay extra costs?
> Finally, Why are some going for £240 and others £322, for example?


My Friend and I ordered from red-cap two weeks ago and are non-perfect pixels arrived with zero dead pixels and no backlight bleed and my other friend who ordered from green-sum last week again a non-perfect pixel arrived with zero dead pixels so the batch of crossovers forsale are really good because even other members have been saying the same thing about theres..

Me personally I'm happy I didn't jump the gun on these 3 months ago because the quality is getting better and better, but I can almost promise you if they keep shipping perfect the prices are going to be going up a fairbit because more and more people are buying them. Hell I was so close to buying a cat leap when they were getting 3-4 dead pixels, back light bleed or the odd time weird colors, so I decided meh il save for a U3011 but as I been checking back on the threads for the crossover,shimians, and catleaps I noticed more and more people getting perfect screens, so I I finally bought on and couldn't be happier, just in time for guild wars 2


----------



## VoidXC

Does anyone have any suggestions for troubleshooting methods that I haven't tried yet for this monitor? Or should I just send it back as DOA?


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I did Accesories, because they got listed on Amazon as the Official Dealer of these monitors. IT wasn't Amazon Marketplace, either, so Amazon totally has my back, and I trust Amazon so much more than Paypal. Currently, my monitor is in Alaska. Weird place to be, but hey, that's life.
> Also, the 2B PCB boards have been sourced - By the end of the year, we can upgrade these and all the 27'' Koreans to 120hz.


Where can I find out more about these PCB boards? I wouldn't mind tinkering around a bit with my monitor to get it to go 120hz. Do these sort of things require and soldering? Or is it just removing the old one and plugging the new one in?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I did Accesories, because they got listed on Amazon as the Official Dealer of these monitors. IT wasn't Amazon Marketplace, either, so Amazon totally has my back, and I trust Amazon so much more than Paypal. Currently, my monitor is in Alaska. Weird place to be, but hey, that's life.
> Also, the 2B PCB boards have been sourced - By the end of the year, we can upgrade these and all the 27'' Koreans to 120hz.


Can you share where you got this information from?


----------



## Rayyeter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Can you share where you got this information from?


I'd be interested as well. His storefront on amazon has nothing in it right now.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Also, the 2B PCB boards have been sourced - By the end of the year, we can upgrade these and all the 27'' Koreans to 120hz.


Woah.. woah ..woah... backup... Elaborate?


----------



## felton1592

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> My Friend and I ordered from red-cap two weeks ago and are non-perfect pixels arrived with zero dead pixels and no backlight bleed and my other friend who ordered from green-sum last week again a non-perfect pixel arrived with zero dead pixels so the batch of crossovers forsale are really good because even other members have been saying the same thing about theres..
> Me personally I'm happy I didn't jump the gun on these 3 months ago because the quality is getting better and better, but I can almost promise you if they keep shipping perfect the prices are going to be going up a fairbit because more and more people are buying them. Hell I was so close to buying a cat leap when they were getting 3-4 dead pixels, back light bleed or the odd time weird colors, so I decided meh il save for a U3011 but as I been checking back on the threads for the crossover,shimians, and catleaps I noticed more and more people getting perfect screens, so I I finally bought on and couldn't be happier, just in time for guild wars 2


What if I have a dead pixel or more, when going for pixel perfect? Would they pay for postage back?

Also, i'm still confused why some are going for £80 more than others









EDIT: Nevermind, it's the pixel perfect thing boosting price.

*So really, not worth the pixel perfect? What If I have even one dead pixel, could I send back?*


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> What if I have a dead pixel or more, when going for pixel perfect? Would they pay for postage back?
> Also, i'm still confused why some are going for £80 more than others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, it's the pixel perfect thing boosting price.
> *So really, not worth the pixel perfect? What If I have even one dead pixel, could I send back?*


It depends on the seller. AW used to have a zero dead pixel policy and two suck pixels. That has now been bumped to one dead pixel and three stuck pixels I think. It varies by seller.


----------



## mahdi

Well, I had a really good experience with Green-Sum. Monitor was defective, however, return shipping was handled by the seller at no cost to me at all. I decided against a replacement, because I realized I don't really need another monitor.

But yeah, Green-Sum is a good seller and will handle returns just fine if the monitor is defective.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> What if I have a dead pixel or more, when going for pixel perfect? Would they pay for postage back?
> Also, i'm still confused why some are going for £80 more than others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, it's the pixel perfect thing boosting price.
> *So really, not worth the pixel perfect? What If I have even one dead pixel, could I send back?*


Your beat bet is to pm each seller and see what they say, but most people who have been ordering "Non Perfect Pixel" have been getting perfect displays for much cheaper then the perfect pixels


----------



## KickingArs

http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/1720#post_17752910
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> What if I have a dead pixel or more, when going for pixel perfect? Would they pay for postage back?
> Also, i'm still confused why some are going for £80 more than others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Nevermind, it's the pixel perfect thing boosting price.
> *So really, not worth the pixel perfect? What If I have even one dead pixel, could I send back?*


----------



## felton1592

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickingArs*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/1720#post_17752910


I'd understand this, however, if the person a page back has said that AW's policy is "one dead pixel and 3 stuck pixels", wouldn't this policy only apply for the "Pixel Perfect" buyers? Or could I do this with the standard one from AW's site?

I don't want to ask them because they'll know they can get an extra £50 out of me and say the "policy only applies with pixel perfect".


----------



## mistax

i want to press the order button so bad. but i can't tell if i want to order from greensum or aw.


----------



## felton1592

Same. AW looks like they really dislike dead pixels and even off returns on one, whereas green-sum offers much cheaper.

I'm starting to think "you get what you pay for" but not sure if people have got great monitors from this green-sum guy. This would help me SO much to save £90.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> Same. AW looks like they really dislike dead pixels and even off returns on one, whereas green-sum offers much cheaper.
> I'm starting to think "you get what you pay for" but not sure if people have got great monitors from this green-sum guy. This would help me SO much to save £90.


I just ordered from Accesoriesswhole.

They tried to deliver - today! I had no idea...

Overnight Shipping? So fast...

BUT BE CAREFUL!

*Accesorieswhole was just removed from Amazon for some reason - AND THEN my Visa card was locked for supposed theft - I am deeply worried*

Going to talk to my Bank about this now. For some reason they won't tell me how much was stolen and it has me worried.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Oh dear... Hope your finances have not suffered.

I received my second ShiMian in 1.5 days since placing my order (to the East Coast), so it's quite possible with some luck.


----------



## mistax

okay these seem like the most popular seller right now and i was wondering what your guys experiences have been with them.

dream-seller - 352.90
red-cap - 355.90
green-sum - 374.90
bigclothcraft - 378.98
accessorieswhole - 399.98


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> okay these seem like the most popular seller right now and i was wondering what your guys experiences have been with them.
> dream-seller - 352.90
> red-cap - 355.90
> green-sum - 374.90
> bigclothcraft - 378.98
> accessorieswhole - 399.98


Well, the 399$ one you listed is what I got - Pivot and all that, nice base.

As said above, they were removed from Amazon and then my card was locked, has me deeply worried. THe bank won't tell me anything! They say they can send me a letter, but can't tell me what transaction caused them to lock it.

Was probably this, they saw someone from Korea charge my card - and alarm bells went off. Damn racism.

Still, they tried to deliver it today and I got a FedEx door tag - I can't believe it.

5:30PM my time, it leaves South Korea.

1 : 30 PM my time the next day, it's at my door...

I hope the FedEx guy doesn't treat it to poorly considering he had to probably heave it up to my door and back or something....

Still, their own fault, I thought I was OK to sleep as it wasn't due til Thursday.

Overall, Accessorieswhole, despite this fiasco with the card, seems to have insanely fast shipping, overnight from Korea, if you would. I just hope that doesn't mean it was treated poorly during shipping to get here so fast...


----------



## felton1592

I feel bad for you, hope it's in great condition. I'll be using PayPal, however.

Also, i'm from the UK, so what fee am I looking to be charged for import?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> I feel bad for you, hope it's in great condition. I'll be using PayPal, however.
> Also, i'm from the UK, so what fee am I looking to be charged for import?


I'm pretty sure most sellers have free shipping. If you mean customs duty's, it will most likely be free, but mught he up to $200 USD, so maybe like 125 pounds? I think that about right conversion. Maybe 150.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> Same. AW looks like they really dislike dead pixels and even off returns on one, whereas green-sum offers much cheaper.
> I'm starting to think "you get what you pay for" but not sure if people have got great monitors from this green-sum guy. This would help me SO much to save £90.


My friend just ordered his non pivet , non perfect perfect pixel from green-sum last week and it came perfect with no dead pixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> okay these seem like the most popular seller right now and i was wondering what your guys experiences have been with them.
> dream-seller - 352.90
> red-cap - 355.90
> green-sum - 374.90
> bigclothcraft - 378.98
> accessorieswhole - 399.98


Me and my friend bought non perfect pixel crossovers from red-cap because he was the cheapest and it payed off because both are monitors were flawless, and as stated above, my other friend bought off green-sum and had a perfect panel


----------



## mistax

oooh hrmm i guess i'll go with green sum? since it in the middle


----------



## LC155

Nice that the crossovers seem to be getting better lately, although now I don't really think it's worth the premium over the Shimian... who actually cares about the bezel looks? (Unless it's really bad, which the Shimian is not)


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> I feel bad for you, hope it's in great condition. I'll be using PayPal, however.
> Also, i'm from the UK, so what fee am I looking to be charged for import?


I asked BCC to put a value of 80USD and after a few weeks I got a duty for 17GBP so not too bad a hit.


----------



## mistax

sitting here twiddling my thumbs deciding which deazler to buy from.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Nice that the crossovers seem to be getting better lately, although now I don't really think it's worth the premium over the Shimian... who actually cares about the bezel looks? (Unless it's really bad, which the Shimian is not)


Looks are a big thing to some people. For example, why Crossover replaced their neat old logo with that weird Cross8ver thing I will never understand. Has anyone successfully removed that by the way?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> Looks are a big thing to some people. For example, why Crossover replaced their neat old logo with that weird Cross8ver thing I will never understand. Has anyone successfully removed that by the way?


Well, the Shimian also looks very good, I've seen them in person. If anything, it looks nicer than the crossover. (If you don't look closely and compared plastic vs metal)

The biggest point I can see here is the illusion of quality (internals are same regardless) and the slightly thinner bezel. Dunno if it's worth $50+ extra.


----------



## mistax

done! ordered from green-sum for 370. based on alot of forum replies alot of people had great experience with them.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Well, the Shimian also looks very good, I've seen them in person. If anything, it looks nicer than the crossover. (If you don't look closely and compared plastic vs metal)
> The biggest point I can see here is the illusion of quality (internals are same regardless) and the slightly thinner bezel. Dunno if it's worth $50+ extra.


I think the shimains look ugly and cheap, but that's why everyone is entitled to there opinion, I hate how there is like 5 buttons on the back of the shimian but only three work, I hate the circular cheap black stand, and all the plastic.

I love the crossovers white scheme, I love the non pivet stand and how its white and matches the monitor, I like the blue power indicator on the front.

Enjoy you shimian, because I love my crossover and would recommend it to anyone, and I've seen the shimian and person and didn't like it better then the crossover.


----------



## LC155

The main reason I'd still recommend shimian is because I'm hardly seeing any problems or complaints about it versus the crossover and catleap. Crossover seems to be getting better, but I had one and my experience wasn't as good.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> I think the shimains look ugly and cheap, but that's why everyone is entitled to there opinion, I hate how there is like 5 buttons on the back of the shimian but only three work, I hate the circular cheap black stand, and all the plastic.
> I love the crossovers white scheme, I love the non pivet stand and how its white and matches the monitor, I like the blue power indicator on the front.
> Enjoy you shimian, because I love my crossover and would recommend it to anyone, and I've seen the shimian and person and didn't like it better then the crossover.


People go on about how white metal back of the Crossover looks so much better, but I've looked at the back of my Crossover once since the day I got it. It really doesn't matter what the back looks like, and it's not worth the extra $100 or so over the Shimian in my opinion. The blue power indicator might look nice, but it seems to produce more backlight bleed than the smaller, dimmer power lights of the Catleap and Shimian. The stand on the non-pivot is mediocre, and not worth the extra money.
It doesn't help that my Crossover has a nice yellow tint right down the middle of it, and that's another reason I'd suggest the cheapest Shimian: If you have an issue, you didn't spend as much money on it!


----------



## Diggz

Got my 2720MDP from BCC today. Plugged it in and no dead pixels. It seems to have a slight amount of light bleed on the bottom right of screen but not enough to bother me one bit. I asked them to ship it with some extra padding and they put more foam inside the box(in front and back of screen) after they checked for QC. Picture is beautiful, but my big fear is the monitor having issues a few weeks in like some other users have, i.e. power issues, flickering, etc...

But again, extremely happy for now!!!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> People go on about how white metal back of the Crossover looks so much better, but I've looked at the back of my Crossover once since the day I got it. It really doesn't matter what the back looks like, and it's not worth the extra $100 or so over the Shimian in my opinion. The blue power indicator might look nice, but it seems to produce more backlight bleed than the smaller, dimmer power lights of the Catleap and Shimian. The stand on the non-pivot is mediocre, and not worth the extra money.
> It doesn't help that my Crossover has a nice yellow tint right down the middle of it, and that's another reason I'd suggest the cheapest Shimian: If you have an issue, you didn't spend as much money on it!


Lol you keep talking about how the crossover is an extra $100 or cost extra??, it really isn't, I paid $350 for mine and the shimians go for as low as $320? , not a big difference at all, I didn't say the non pivet stand is better then the shimian I said I like the looks of it better to match my white framed monitor. I don't have any of this yellow tight down the middle of the screen that you speak of, maybe you should return it, and the backlight bleed from the led light is very small and I don't even notice unless I look for it.. so was it worth it to me to spend $30 more yes it was, is it worth it to buy a crossover for $380-$400 over a shimian, me personally I'd say no even with the pevit model, but that's because I would never use the monitor on portrait mode.


----------



## rkl1985

Well guys, after much anticipation i recieved my Crossover 27Q LED-P today at around 5pm, went and picked it up at the DHL hub because I missed the van this morning at 8am when he showed up.... The shipping speed is ridiculous, it was in South Korea at 5pm the previous day! Purchased from Bigclothcraft,

Monitor was packed extremely well with lots of extra foam sheeting rolled up and stuffed inside the box on both sides of the monitor and then the box wrapped in more foam. I am surprised with the weight of it, all this metal its made from is cool, really tough and decent build quality. No damage at all and so far I have found 0 bad pixels and no obvious or excessive backlight bleed. Recieved a Welltronics 110-240v power supply and a small adapter dongle to use with the Korean power cord, although I subbed a correct power cord for simplicity and reliability. Also interestingly enough my Bios screen posts!

I have been trying to figure out how to calibrate it now, blues are not out of control but compared to my TN Samsung there is more, so far I am using the profile off TFT Central and it makes the image way more almost brownish, maybe its the red appearing stronger without all the blue, looks good either way, prolly more correct with this profile though.


----------



## amazing235

Hey,
I noticed that BCC, Green-sum, red-cap and dream-seller are not a top rated seller on ebay anymore.
They all have very bad reputation on their feedback.
I bought mine from AW about a month ago and I still communicating with them.
Not because my monitor has defect, but I just keep asking questions to them and small chitchat. lol
As they provide great customer services.
What I see on the overclock.net is
" I received my monitor. flawless. great condition. no dead pixels. and blah blah blah- "
But, what about after your usage and service?

All of the seller promised to provide 1 year warranty.
So far, no one maintained their monitor till 1 year and no feedback of what so ever.
Perhaps, it is time to be aware of their service provided?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Hey,
> I noticed that BCC, Green-sum, red-cap and dream-seller are not a top rated seller on ebay anymore.
> They all have very bad reputation on their feedback.
> I bought mine from AW about a month ago and I still communicating with them.
> Not because my monitor has defect, but I just keep asking questions to them and small chitchat. lol
> As they provide great customer services.
> What I see on the overclock.net is
> " I received my monitor. flawless. great condition. no dead pixels. and blah blah blah- "
> But, what about after your usage and service?
> All of the seller promised to provide 1 year warranty.
> So far, no one maintained their monitor till 1 year and no feedback of what so ever.
> Perhaps, it is time to be aware of their service provided?


This makes me happy - I ordered from AW and it was over-night, but because I THOUGHT it wouldn't get here that quickly, I didn't wait for the guy and went to sleep.

I check the tracking when I wake up @ 6 PM(I work night shifts) and it says a delivery was attempted. I find a door tag lol.

They will try again today and I will be ready, did the door tag anyways, just in case. Will sleep downstairs, near the door. IT worries me though, such fast shipping as well...I mean they must have thrown it around alot.

Also, AW was removed from Amazon as a trusted dealer / Authorized dealer. Which worries the heck out of me on top of that! Then my card was suspended and they now want to ship me a new one, because they suspect fraud. THey won't budge on this. They say someone has my card and is using it for purchases, but won't tell me what!

I somewhat believe it is because I ordered an item from Korea. So the card was charged by someone in Korea...I bet they saw this as a red flag, because it's Korea. I think my Bank is racist. I ordered from PlayAsia before and nothing, but Korea? Suddenly, bam, red flag! Someone stole yer credit card and they won't even tell me what the charges were.

I just can't get over that.

Monday, 5:30 PM item leaves sellers facility
Tuesday: 1:15 delivery attempt was made.

That is crazy!

But hey, I guess 200$ shipping, you should expect it! (He dropped off a label which said "Consumer item: 200 USD, Import / Shipping: 200USD

So that is where my 400$ went to.









But wow, if yer in Korea, you can get these same monitors for only 199$...nuts.


----------



## mistax

hmm =( maybe i should tell my friend in korea to pick 2 up and put it in luggage xD


----------



## mistax

hrmm wonder now if i sold of paid the extra 30 dollars LOL.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> hmm =( maybe i should tell my friend in korea to pick 2 up and put it in luggage xD


Lol.

Well, I think he'd still have to pay customs or so.

But even if he did, a plane ticket is surely more expensive for a person.







More than 200$, that is.

Unless he was coming to your town already. Then by all means, tell him to GET IT DONE, infact, buy 100 of them, and then sell them for 300$ here and he'd make a good profit.


----------



## felton1592

Still in-decisive of whether to go "perfect pixel" or not, especially with customs costs added on.

Who was the guy who bought through a seller and told them to price it at 80 USD so they only had to pay £17?


----------



## Mkilbride

Wow!

This thing arrived and is perfect!

Not a dead pixel! very minor backlight bleeding! Hard to see unless I look for it!

Whites are white and blacks are black! I had almost forgotten what proper gamma looks like.

I turned up the size of the Desktop, but test still appears VERY small, which worries me. So far things appear sharp. This thing IS BRIGHT AS ALL HECK though, I find my eyes nearly blinded and my entire room can be seen, just wow.

I am super surprised about the size. I know it's 27'', but I have a 24'', and I feel like I've moved to 30''. It would have been to much, for sure.

Also, one issue is the input is in a VERY ANNOYING LOCATION, for the DVI-D? It's right at the monitors arch on the base, so you have to turn it around, tilt it, and then tilt yourself to put it in..frustrating design.

My eyes hurt. Alot. I'm kinda worried about that now. I hope this goes away with a little time.

My old monitor was never this dark! It always seemed super bright, no matter what Calibration I did - AND THIS MONITOR IS PRE-CALIBRATION! Yah-whoo ~

Also, the DVI-D Cable I got from Monoprice was HUGE!

I'm talking bout the Cable! The Cable was 4x the thickness of ANY DVI-D Cable I've seen. It is literally bending off my GPU, it worries me slightly.

Strangely enough there seems to be some sort of jutter; I'm not sure, but my old monitor was never smooth scrolling webpages, got blurry, but this one is a little blurrier even. My eyes are kind of burning now.

I just can't believe how this looks - The colors that is, it's like I'm back on a CRT, color wise. I can't imagine 10-bit.

LCD lagnom calibration sight shows my levels on EVERYTHING TO BE PERFECT! And that is out of the box! And more can be done...hehe. Gamma is a perfect 2.2, my old monitor, no matter what I did, could never reach that.

30'' really would be to much. I topld myself, I wanted 30'' after 24'', but...

27'' almoist seems to much right now .Overhwleming. Still, this is amazing.

But damn all mighty, it is bright, my old monitor never put off any light near this level...

So many things to test...baha.

Holy crap. I just booted CS:S. It was smoother than on my 2ms TN panel.

I can't believe that, my TN panel was supposed to be 2ms, but this seems more smooth, like my Plasma or CRT.Not at that level, but at least somewhat close to it.

I can't get my audio to work with this though. I have HDMI audio output via my NVIDIA card to a receiver and whatnot, if I turn it on I just get a blank desktop.

If I can ust figure out this Receiver mess.


----------



## 161029

Pictures or it didn't happen.


----------



## LC155

Someone's excited.

Funny you mention the jitter or something though. When I got my Crossover from AW, it was pretty much perfect, except I had 'running lines' going down the screen when observed closely on certain colours, plus I have some PWM flicker.

Really wish it didn't do that, but I had to send it back. Was going for a replacement, but then the PP was out of stock so I gave up.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Lol you keep talking about how the crossover is an extra $100 or cost extra??, it really isn't, I paid $350 for mine and the shimians go for as low as $320? , not a big difference at all, I didn't say the non pivet stand is better then the shimian I said I like the looks of it better to match my white framed monitor. I don't have any of this yellow tight down the middle of the screen that you speak of, maybe you should return it, and the backlight bleed from the led light is very small and I don't even notice unless I look for it.. so was it worth it to me to spend $30 more yes it was, is it worth it to buy a crossover for $380-$400 over a shimian, me personally I'd say no even with the pevit model, but that's because I would never use the monitor on portrait mode.


Shimians are going for $280 right now, they were $290. I paid $378 for my Crossover from AW, I guess that wasn't worth the extra money either, since people have been getting great monitors from other sellers for cheaper. Also I can't return it unless I want to waste money shipping it back..


----------



## champers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Well, the 399$ one you listed is what I got - Pivot and all that, nice base.
> As said above, they were removed from Amazon and then my card was locked, has me deeply worried. THe bank won't tell me anything! They say they can send me a letter, but can't tell me what transaction caused them to lock it.
> Was probably this, they saw someone from Korea charge my card - and alarm bells went off. Damn racism.
> Still, they tried to deliver it today and I got a FedEx door tag - I can't believe it.
> 5:30PM my time, it leaves South Korea.
> 1 : 30 PM my time the next day, it's at my door...
> I hope the FedEx guy doesn't treat it to poorly considering he had to probably heave it up to my door and back or something....
> Still, their own fault, I thought I was OK to sleep as it wasn't due til Thursday.
> Overall, Accessorieswhole, despite this fiasco with the card, seems to have insanely fast shipping, overnight from Korea, if you would. I just hope that doesn't mean it was treated poorly during shipping to get here so fast...


Your card wasn't locked because you purchased something on Amazon. Doesn't matter who ships the item, Amazon handles the payment and they didn't steal your information. Stop badmouthing AW for no reason. Their Amazon storefront has gone down before, it's nothing new/not a conspiracy.


----------



## Skoobs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> This thing IS BRIGHT AS ALL HECK though, I find my eyes nearly blinded and my entire room can be seen, just wow.


you can adjust the brightness in the nvidia control panel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> 30'' really would be to much. I topld myself, I wanted 30'' after 24'', but...
> 27'' almoist seems to much right now .Overhwleming. Still, this is amazing.


honestly, i have a 30in IPS screen from HP and when i game i have to lean back and sit as far from it as possible or i cant see the whole screen. and when i read text i sometimes find myself leaning in and getting close to the monitor because im too lazy to ctrl+ it... i think 30 inch screens are indeed a little too much. i would love to find a buyer for this screen and get a crossover.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skoobs*
> 
> you can adjust the brightness in the nvidia control panel
> honestly, i have a 30in IPS screen from HP and when i game i have to lean back and sit as far from it as possible or i cant see the whole screen. and when i read text i sometimes find myself leaning in and getting close to the monitor because im too lazy to ctrl+ it... i think 30 inch screens are indeed a little too much. i would love to find a buyer for this screen and get a crossover.


to bad it wasnt the u3011 or i would buy it lol


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *felton1592*
> 
> Still in-decisive of whether to go "perfect pixel" or not, especially with customs costs added on.
> Who was the guy who bought through a seller and told them to price it at 80 USD so they only had to pay £17?


That was me through BCC.


----------



## OPENbracket

I am getting very paranoid about this LOADUS power brick that came with my monitor, a little 110V acceptable sticker isnt giving me any piece of mind for futureproofing this monitor. Can anyone recommend a brick that accepts 120v that can power this lovely monitor?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> I am getting very paranoid about this LOADUS power brick that came with my monitor, a little 110V acceptable sticker isnt giving me any piece of mind for futureproofing this monitor. Can anyone recommend a brick that accepts 120v that can power this lovely monitor?


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300555688796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## OPENbracket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300555688796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


What a bargain!
I know its stated in the front page, but has anyone been using a transformer (200w for the safeside) with no problems for 24/7 use?


----------



## mistax

for those that ordered from green sum. How long was the process from payment to shipped to arriving


----------



## Mkilbride

Hmm ,using the color profile in the Catleap thread and all looks well.

Still, I guess the Backlight bleed is there. I am noticing it more now. It kinda looks like it is reflecting the lights from the LCD. In pure dark scenes, it appears worse than my monitor, massively disappointing there. It seems to be focused on the upper left where a good deal of the screen is lighter than the rest, other than that it;s fine and hard to notice...

And this jutter that can't be fixed - movies I am playing seem kinda jerky.

Ok, no.

Just played a few more games and it is more than noticable. 1/4th of the screen is lighter than the rest, and in general, it seems ligher than my old monitor. Just like...yeah.

It's very pronounced...I just now can't stop staring at it...

God damned.

I'd have to pay damned shipping back to Korea and that's not cheap, customs and all that, we're talking half the price of the damn monitor. At this rate it would have been cheaper to get a Dell U2711 almost.


----------



## mikelanding

Just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P. Ordered on last Friday (20th July). Got it on today (26 July). Requested to use EMS try to avoid some import tax. But end up got tax of around USD46. Not bad
Seller is red-cap. The monitor is great. Only 1 small suck pixel at the very top right corner. Only visible in Black screen. The Pivot stand is a bit bend but it does not affect the pivot function. I can still get perfect horizontal.

Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27-27Q-LED-P-PIVOT-DVI-D-S-IPS-2560-x-1440-Computer-PC-Monitor-/220976981479?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item33734125e7#ht_13891wt_1376

Below are some of the picture I took. Enjoy!


























































































Very happy with this purchase. No regret I opt for this instead of Dell U2711.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Hmm ,using the color profile in the Catleap thread and all looks well.
> Still, I guess the Backlight bleed is there. I am noticing it more now. It kinda looks like it is reflecting the lights from the LCD. In pure dark scenes, it appears worse than my monitor, massively disappointing there. It seems to be focused on the upper left where a good deal of the screen is lighter than the rest, other than that it;s fine and hard to notice...
> And this jutter that can't be fixed - movies I am playing seem kinda jerky.
> Ok, no.
> Just played a few more games and it is more than noticable. 1/4th of the screen is lighter than the rest, and in general, it seems ligher than my old monitor. Just like...yeah.
> It's very pronounced...I just now can't stop staring at it...
> God damned.
> I'd have to pay damned shipping back to Korea and that's not cheap, customs and all that, we're talking half the price of the damn monitor. At this rate it would have been cheaper to get a Dell U2711 almost.


Not sure if you have already, but try a different dl-DVI cable (a good quality one).


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Hmm ,using the color profile in the Catleap thread and all looks well.
> Still, I guess the Backlight bleed is there. I am noticing it more now. It kinda looks like it is reflecting the lights from the LCD. In pure dark scenes, it appears worse than my monitor, massively disappointing there. It seems to be focused on the upper left where a good deal of the screen is lighter than the rest, other than that it;s fine and hard to notice...
> And this jutter that can't be fixed - movies I am playing seem kinda jerky.
> Ok, no.
> Just played a few more games and it is more than noticable. 1/4th of the screen is lighter than the rest, and in general, it seems ligher than my old monitor. Just like...yeah.
> It's very pronounced...I just now can't stop staring at it...
> God damned.
> I'd have to pay damned shipping back to Korea and that's not cheap, customs and all that, we're talking half the price of the damn monitor. At this rate it would have been cheaper to get a Dell U2711 almost.


This is kind of why, despite absolutely loving the look of the Crossover, I recommend the Shimian over it now. For the amount sold, the amount of issues I've heard about them has been startlingly low.

I got burned with a crossover too, despite how nice it looks, it isn't worth the risk, imo.

(Although the shipping was paid for me)


----------



## Jethric

For those who saw what I posted about AW's pixel warranty earlier in the thread, (s)he has updated it again recently.
"Defective Pixel (Include Dead/Stuck/Sub Pixel ) : 3 maximum"
That means you can get up to three dead pixels if you don't go for the pixel perfect.


----------



## Sazexa

AccessorieWholesale seems, to me, to be the best person to buy from.

Considering her policies, customer support, and the amount of literal "perfect" monitors she sends out, it'd be worth going to her for $75 over the others if you ask me.


----------



## mistax

=( nooooooooo.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> AccessorieWholesale seems, to me, to be the best person to buy from.
> Considering her policies, customer support, and the amount of literal "perfect" monitors she sends out, it'd be worth going to her for $75 over the others if you ask me.


It's not all about pixel count. There have been other issues with some of their batches, like backlight flicker. But yes, if you want guaranteed paid shipping back to sellers in case something is wrong, BigClothCraft and AW are good to buy from. Look at the sellers you're interested in and check out their feedback history. Most people have gotten all that positive feedback NOT through selling monitors but other completely unrelated stuff. Just looking at the volume of monitors sold + feedback, ta_planet is near the top.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> AccessorieWholesale seems, to me, to be the best person to buy from.
> Considering her policies, customer support, and the amount of literal "perfect" monitors she sends out, it'd be worth going to her for $75 over the others if you ask me.


Paid return shipping? I am happy to hear that. I ordered from AW.

And yes, I have a DVI-D cable from Monoprice I bought. IT is 3x as thick as the one that came with the monitor.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=3#specification

Thing is massive.

The back of my monitor says -201108 on the manufacture thing. I assume this means it was made almost a damn year ago? That's disappointing, somewhat, as other uses have ones that were made in the month they got them. Makes mine seem like it's been sitting in a dank, dark room for a year.


----------



## mistax

well green sum =( looks to be a cruddy choice now.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Paid return shipping? I am happy to hear that. I ordered from AW.
> And yes, I have a DVI-D cable from Monoprice I bought. IT is 3x as thick as the one that came with the monitor.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=3#specification
> Thing is massive.
> The back of my monitor says -201108 on the manufacture thing. I assume this means it was made almost a damn year ago? That's disappointing, somewhat, as other uses have ones that were made in the month they got them. Makes mine seem like it's been sitting in a dank, dark room for a year.


If they ask you to mail it to a warehouse, you should probably do that. Using their fedex account gives them a huge charge, and they won't like that at all.


----------



## mistax

So ordered Tuesday Night. He shipped out wed. I hope i get it on the weekend. And secondly =( im kinda regretting i didn't order from greensum.


----------



## djriful

Does anyone know if DHL continues the shipping on Sat?


----------



## ImToeKnee

Hiya! Planning on getting a Crossover LED-P here also









Which seller should i buy from on eBay?

Also, what are you guys' thoughts about gaming on the Crossover's? Lag, Blur, etc. I'm quite curious.

- _T_ony


----------



## Mkilbride

As for lag blur, well, in BF3 and CS:S and a few other games; I'd say it's smoother than my 2MS TN panel, which shocks me, it reminded me of gaming on my Plasma somewhat,

Besides the odd bit of judder that kinda irks me and I can't figure out what is causing it...

The Backlight bleed is my only issue


----------



## mistax

poeey i got tracking number from green-sum. But it doesn't say it's been accepted or in tranist or anything. when i put it into dhl it says doesnt exist.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Honestly this thread is getting so off topic with all the talk of members tracking info


----------



## LC155

Yeah, it'll take a day or two to show up in the system.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> As for lag blur, well, in BF3 and CS:S and a few other games; I'd say it's smoother than my 2MS TN panel, which shocks me, it reminded me of gaming on my Plasma somewhat,
> Besides the odd bit of judder that kinda irks me and I can't figure out what is causing it...
> The Backlight bleed is my only issue


This is the main thing I'm afraid of. Even though I bought the pixel perfect version, I don't think AW would take it back if it _only_ had backlight bleed.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> As for lag blur, well, in BF3 and CS:S and a few other games; I'd say it's smoother than my 2MS TN panel, which shocks me, it reminded me of gaming on my Plasma somewhat,
> Besides the odd bit of judder that kinda irks me and I can't figure out what is causing it...
> The Backlight bleed is my only issue


How far from the screen are you taking your photo? To get true backlight bleed, you have to stand some 10 feet apart and zoom in on your monitor to take your photo. Use a full black background too.

If you're just taking a picture sitting at your desk, you may well be seeing IPS glow, which is completely normal. It looks like IPS glow from the light distribution on your photo.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> How far from the screen are you taking your photo? To get true backlight bleed, you have to stand some 10 feet apart and zoom in on your monitor to take your photo. Use a full black background too.
> If you're just taking a picture sitting at your desk, you may well be seeing IPS glow, which is completely normal. It looks like IPS glow from the light distribution on your photo.


I'm sorry, but if all IPS monitors have that, I cannot use them and despite the awesome IPS color accuracy...this completely kills.

I just loaded up Amnesia: The Dark Descent. Ruined, 4 tan colored edges around the screen and can hardly see.

Loaded up heck, Counter-Strike Source, and many other Source games. Fine for anywhere except dark areas, if I enter a building, suddenly the 4 corners become unviewable. Hard to see, hard to make out any detail.

I took my initial shot from 4 feet. I will take my next one from 10 feet, as you say.

Still, if this is normal, I don't get how any IPS user uses it.

I thought my TN panel was to bright and at times I couldn't make out detail. I moved onto IPS because it was told, on several websites, including this, that it has better color accuracy and such, as it does, and eliminates this issue I have had with all LCD's.

Bah, they need Plasma monitors. I used my Plasma TV once and it was almost like a CRT, but in 1080p. Twas beautiful, but they don't make any 27'', 1440p Plasma's, or any Plasma's under 32'' for that matter. And most of those are 720p, plus input lag and response time, ect.









Farther away, about as far back as I can go, zoomed in abit, measured at roughly 8 feet.



Here is another one from 10 feet back and zoomed in - as another user alerted to me is the proper method to identify true backlight bleeding.

Some other shots:

Hello me









Shot at 2012-07-27

Gaming:









Shot at 2012-07-27









Shot at 2012-07-27









Shot at 2012-07-27
Really blurry and I'm sorry for that, but while the image itself is fine, as you can see on all the pictures, that is how it actually looks in the 4 corners. =If this is IPS glow, I am done with IPS.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I'm sorry, but if all IPS monitors have that, I cannot use them and despite the awesome IPS color accuracy...this completely kills.
> I just loaded up Amnesia: The Dark Descent. Ruined, 4 tan colored edges around the screen and can hardly see.
> Loaded up heck, Counter-Strike Source, and many other Source games. Fine for anywhere except dark areas, if I enter a building, suddenly the 4 corners become unviewable. Hard to see, hard to make out any detail.
> I took my initial shot from 4 feet. I will take my next one from 10 feet, as you say.
> Still, if this is normal, I don't get how any IPS user uses it.
> I thought my TN panel was to bright and at times I couldn't make out detail. I moved onto IPS because it was told, on several websites, including this, that it has better color accuracy and such, as it does, and eliminates this issue I have had with all LCD's.
> Bah, they need Plasma monitors. I used my Plasma TV once and it was almost like a CRT, but in 1080p. Twas beautiful, but they don't make any 27'', 1440p Plasma's, or any Plasma's under 32'' for that matter. And most of those are 720p, plus input lag and response time, ect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Farther away, about as far back as I can go, zoomed in abit, measured at roughly 8 feet.
> 
> Here is another one from 10 feet back and zoomed in - as another user alerted to me is the proper method to identify true backlight bleeding.
> Some other shots:
> Hello me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> Gaming:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> Really blurry and I'm sorry for that, but while the image itself is fine, as you can see on all the pictures, that is how it actually looks in the 4 corners. =If this is IPS glow, I am done with IPS.


Is that a Crossover?


----------



## Mkilbride

Yes, it is.

I posted it a few posts back.

I got it from Accesorieswhole. I'm waiting to hear back from her. She warned me that bleeding is normal..

But if this is how they all are, well, I am hoping I can get a refund.


----------



## Sazexa

You do realize they are A-, right. You're getting 2560 x 1440 for less than half of the usual price.
It's okay if you have one small problem.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> You do realize they are A-, right. You're getting 2560 x 1440 for less than half of the usual price.
> It's okay if you have one small problem.


One small problem?

This renders it completely unusable except for browsing the web.

Gaming, and movies, it's terrible, worse than my TN due to the backlight bleed.

If they are all like this, then I can only pray I get a full refund.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> One small problem?
> This renders it completely unusable except for browsing the web.
> Gaming, and movies, it's terrible, worse than my TN due to the backlight bleed.
> If they are all like this, then I can only pray I get a full refund.


Maybe the pictures do it no justice, but it doesn't look nearly as awful as you're making it out to be.

Perhaps try to get a replacement unit first?
Or look up ways to correct back-light bleeding. It's difficult, but can be done to an extent.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Farther away, about as far back as I can go, zoomed in abit, measured at roughly 8 feet.


The far-away photo that you took definitely does show light bleed, and as you can see, the pattern is different from the IPS glow one, which has "glow" from all 4 corners. My two ShiMians have a fairly uniform black screen at that distance, so yours is definitely more significant. My temporary CrossOver had some noticeable light bleed, although not as bad as yours.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> As for lag blur, well, in BF3 and CS:S and a few other games; I'd say it's smoother than my 2MS TN panel, which shocks me, it reminded me of gaming on my Plasma somewhat,
> 
> Besides the odd bit of judder that kinda irks me and I can't figure out what is causing it...
> 
> The Backlight bleed is my only issue


There is a different between Bleed and normal Glow.

You need to stare it at 90' degree angle at each corner of the screen... not the middle to tell if it is bleed or just the polarized film glow.


----------



## LC155

Before you send it back, get a cloth and gently massage the screen around where the bleed is.

It's very easy for bleed to show through. Hell, the bumps in shipping can cause some. Giving the screen a prod or two might lessen it or remove it completely.


----------



## ghabhaducha

Hi Everyone, I received my Crossover 27q LED-P from red-cap yesterday. He had mentioned on the ebay item page that the power adapter would be 110V-240V. I received a Loadus transformer, and on the bottom with a sticker that says "AC 110V is acceptable." I decided to measure the outputs using a multimeter, and I observed a DC output of 24V 60hz. I was wondering if people received a power adapter similar to this one and later had complications with using their monitor. TIA.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I'm sorry, but if all IPS monitors have that, I cannot use them and despite the awesome IPS color accuracy...this completely kills.
> I just loaded up Amnesia: The Dark Descent. Ruined, 4 tan colored edges around the screen and can hardly see.
> Loaded up heck, Counter-Strike Source, and many other Source games. Fine for anywhere except dark areas, if I enter a building, suddenly the 4 corners become unviewable. Hard to see, hard to make out any detail.
> I took my initial shot from 4 feet. I will take my next one from 10 feet, as you say.
> Still, if this is normal, I don't get how any IPS user uses it.
> I thought my TN panel was to bright and at times I couldn't make out detail. I moved onto IPS because it was told, on several websites, including this, that it has better color accuracy and such, as it does, and eliminates this issue I have had with all LCD's.
> Bah, they need Plasma monitors. I used my Plasma TV once and it was almost like a CRT, but in 1080p. Twas beautiful, but they don't make any 27'', 1440p Plasma's, or any Plasma's under 32'' for that matter. And most of those are 720p, plus input lag and response time, ect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Farther away, about as far back as I can go, zoomed in abit, measured at roughly 8 feet.
> Here is another one from 10 feet back and zoomed in - as another user alerted to me is the proper method to identify true backlight bleeding.
> Some other shots:
> Hello me
> 
> Really blurry and I'm sorry for that, but while the image itself is fine, as you can see on all the pictures, that is how it actually looks in the 4 corners. =If this is IPS glow, I am done with IPS.


Can't believe people are telling you that's "normal" or to just deal with it. That is severe backlight bleed. Even in the bottom right corner of my Crossover, where bleed is the worst because of the power light, I can still make out details in dark scenes. Yours looks like the bottom right corner is just entirely gray/white.
Hopefully we can both get RMAs..


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Can't believe people are telling you that's "normal" or to just deal with it. That is severe backlight bleed. Even in the bottom right corner of my Crossover, where bleed is the worst because of the power light, I can still make out details in dark scenes. Yours looks like the bottom right corner is just entirely gray/white.
> Hopefully we can both get RMAs..


No, we're telling him to make an accurate evaluation of what he has, differentiating between light bleed and IPS glow. Upon further review of additional photos, yes, he has actual light bleed issues. Before, it was not necessarily the case, as his first photo was up-close.

It's important to evaluate "issues" properly. Too many people post here with things they think are issues, stating their monitors are dead/not working correctly, etc., and it then turns out something was not done correctly, or it was a matter of a wrong adapter, or wrong video card port, or some computer setting, or any number of reasons. IPS glow / light bleed is a very common area of confusion as well. The lack of understanding/knowledge is pretty deep in some cases (which I try not to point out, so people don't feel bad, but at the same time I wish everyone would just use these threads as a guide to do a lot more reading and use the "search" function more).


----------



## Mkilbride

Well Accessorieswhole has not contacted me again, it seems it takes them some time, which is kind of annoying. I want to get this out ASAP. As many good games are coming out.

And yes, I've said I know the pictures make it worse.

And if you're just browsing the web, it can be hard to see, but you still can, even on OCN, on this webpage, I can make it just a little. Does that help you better understand?

If on OCN, which is blu-ish grey and white, I can make it out even the tiniest bit, doesn't that seem excessive?

But if say, I play Amnesia: The Dark Descent, the top left and bottom left and right corners, cannot be made out in any detail.


----------



## LC155

AW usually replies early in the morning for me (UK - about 2-4amish).

She was always prompt in her replies to me.

Which one did you go for again? The perfect pixel? (Although I doubt it since they're out of stock)


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Well Accessorieswhole has not contacted me again, it seems it takes them some time, which is kind of annoying. I want to get this out ASAP. As many good games are coming out.
> And yes, I've said I know the pictures make it worse.
> And if you're just browsing the web, it can be hard to see, but you still can, even on OCN, on this webpage, I can make it just a little. Does that help you better understand?
> If on OCN, which is blu-ish grey and white, I can make it out even the tiniest bit, doesn't that seem excessive?
> But if say, I play Amnesia: The Dark Descent, the top left and bottom left and right corners, cannot be made out in any detail.


It's weekend already so aw will probably not contact you until next week.
Also, just a piece of advice, delete your pictures and comments. It may piss AW off and not accept your return. Sure you can open paypal dispute, but you need to pay shipping back. Always maintain a good relationship withe the seller even you are not satisfied with the product. You are doing yourself a favor as well.


----------



## LC155

Yeah, that's another thing to watch out for as well.

AW does check these threads to see how customers are finding their items. Do NOT say anything to piss off a seller, especially one that likes to keep a good reputation - keep it private and stuff.


----------



## Taget

Reading through this thread brings back my own memories of my craziness. I ordered from red-cap on a Thursday night and he took the evening off and didn't ship it until Monday. I had to wait nearly 6 days to get my monitor from Korea. And I was all jealous of everyone who bought from Dreamseller who were getting theirs in 2 or 3. But once I got it everything was good and I realized the anticipation was driving me batty and the wait was well worth it. Relax and be patient.









My experience with my monitor which I bought in March has been exeedingly positive (minus the really annoying 2 or 3 itty bitty green pixels that combine into what look slike one big green pixel. But for what I paid (even at the $415 which was considered a good price back in the distant past (aka four and a half months ago) I got a really awsome monitor. Back light bleeding is well under control and no problems until..... two weeks ago. Hence my post.

About two weeks ago I started getting this annoying heavy flicker. Lke what you see of a video of a crt tv set. A rolling pulsating flash that travels down the monitor. I'm still not sure what triggers it. Once it starts if I turn the monitor on and off it stops for a second or two and then resumes. It remains even when I reboot into the bios. So it's OS independent. Though it does seem to go away if i say l leave it alone for the whole night while it goes off in sleep mode. I think it's onset is accelerated if I play games. Since that is about when it appears.

It seems almost like the monitor gets "tired" from "overuse" and acts out.

Right now I'm wondering what to do. I'll probably order a new dvi channel to see if that is it. I've been using the power brick I got off ebay. Buy maybe I can try the one that came with the monitor to see if that is the issue.

I do have a square deal warranty on this.

If I open up the back and see if any cables are loose do I risk voiding either the manufacturer or square deal warranty? Anything else I should be trying?

Does anyone have any experience with trying to do a warranty claim? Does square deal even want tyou contacting them before your manufacturers warranty is over? Do I contact red-cap or is there some way to contact Crossover directly for non-English speakers such as myself? And will shipping be so expensive that I might as well just get another Korean monitor for $300 instead?


----------



## ElevenEleven

I could be wrong, but this doesn't seem related to your dvi cable. More like something in the monitor circuitry or perhaps the power adapter... Since it happens over time, it's probably related to increasing temperature.


----------



## ArtemS

Hi all,

I was thinking of buying 27Q for my MacBook Pro, but then realised I'd have to get Mini DisplayPort to Dual DVI adapter, which is another ~$100.

So possibly getting 2720mdp is a better choice since there's a wider range of connectivity options and no need for external, arguably fiddly, adapter.

Please feel free to correct me on this one if I've missed anything.

My question is - did anybody try 2720mdp with a macbook? Did it work fine?

Thanks heaps!


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taget*
> 
> Reading through this thread brings back my own memories of my craziness. I ordered from red-cap on a Thursday night and he took the evening off and didn't ship it until Monday. I had to wait nearly 6 days to get my monitor from Korea. And I was all jealous of everyone who bought from Dreamseller who were getting theirs in 2 or 3. But once I got it everything was good and I realized the anticipation was driving me batty and the wait was well worth it. Relax and be patient.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My experience with my monitor which I bought in March has been exeedingly positive (minus the really annoying 2 or 3 itty bitty green pixels that combine into what look slike one big green pixel. But for what I paid (even at the $415 which was considered a good price back in the distant past (aka four and a half months ago) I got a really awsome monitor. Back light bleeding is well under control and no problems until..... two weeks ago. Hence my post.
> About two weeks ago I started getting this annoying heavy flicker. Lke what you see of a video of a crt tv set. A rolling pulsating flash that travels down the monitor. I'm still not sure what triggers it. Once it starts if I turn the monitor on and off it stops for a second or two and then resumes. It remains even when I reboot into the bios. So it's OS independent. Though it does seem to go away if i say l leave it alone for the whole night while it goes off in sleep mode. I think it's onset is accelerated if I play games. Since that is about when it appears.
> It seems almost like the monitor gets "tired" from "overuse" and acts out.
> Right now I'm wondering what to do. I'll probably order a new dvi channel to see if that is it. I've been using the power brick I got off ebay. Buy maybe I can try the one that came with the monitor to see if that is the issue.
> I do have a square deal warranty on this.
> If I open up the back and see if any cables are loose do I risk voiding either the manufacturer or square deal warranty? Anything else I should be trying?
> Does anyone have any experience with trying to do a warranty claim? Does square deal even want tyou contacting them before your manufacturers warranty is over? Do I contact red-cap or is there some way to contact Crossover directly for non-English speakers such as myself? And will shipping be so expensive that I might as well just get another Korean monitor for $300 instead?


I would definitely try the other power brick. May as well try the cheap and easy solutions first.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> It's weekend already so aw will probably not contact you until next week.
> Also, just a piece of advice, delete your pictures and comments. It may piss AW off and not accept your return. Sure you can open paypal dispute, but you need to pay shipping back. Always maintain a good relationship withe the seller even you are not satisfied with the product. You are doing yourself a favor as well.


Not deleting my pictures.

It's wrong if she refused my return. Illegal, infact, I ordered through Amazon, and Amazon has my back. I will not pay return shipping, as it claims on her page that she will pay it.

And I messaged her not on the weekend; maybe it is in Korea, I don't know, perhaps they are a day ahead.

I have not said anything negative against AW. I infact, praised her good shipping several times, overnight it was. The only issues I have is the backlight bleed. I did not pay for perfect pixel, but there are no dead ones anyways. Wasn't worth the extra 70$. I bet the next one I get, if I do indeed get one, will have no backlight bleed, but 140 dead pixels as some users have gotten lately.

The one other concern issue I had was packaging, the product wasn't damaged, and the box not torn to pieces, so it was all well in the end, but there was no bubble wrap, and no protective film over the screen, Everything was completely exposed inside the box, say to speak.

It did come with two microfiber cleaning clothes though, which I thought was a nice touch.

Also, the box labels 'HDMi, SPDIF, HDTV, TV Tuner" all on the box, so there are many ways to approach this situation.









I doubt anything bad will happen, I'm sure we can get this mess sorted out. I'll have to ask her to check for backlight bleeding with my next one.


----------



## LC155

Korea is +8 or +9 I think.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Hi all,
> I was thinking of buying 27Q for my MacBook Pro, but then realised I'd have to get Mini DisplayPort to Dual DVI adapter, which is another ~$100.
> So possibly getting 2720mdp is a better choice since there's a wider range of connectivity options and no need for external, arguably fiddly, adapter.
> Please feel free to correct me on this one if I've missed anything.
> My question is - did anybody try 2720mdp with a macbook? Did it work fine?
> Thanks heaps!


Currently no one has gotten one of these monitors to work with any Laptop, no matter the connector.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Hi all,
> I was thinking of buying 27Q for my MacBook Pro, but then realised I'd have to get Mini DisplayPort to Dual DVI adapter, which is another ~$100.
> So possibly getting 2720mdp is a better choice since there's a wider range of connectivity options and no need for external, arguably fiddly, adapter.
> Please feel free to correct me on this one if I've missed anything.
> My question is - did anybody try 2720mdp with a macbook? Did it work fine?
> Thanks heaps!
> 
> 
> 
> Currently no one has gotten one of these monitors to work with any Laptop, no matter the connector.
Click to expand...

MacBook Pro can.


----------



## Taget

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> I would definitely try the other power brick. May as well try the cheap and easy solutions first.


The ebay brick was actually rather hot meaning that someting might actually be wrong with it. Unfortunately the power brick that came with the monitor did nothing to help the situation whatsoever. Though that might be because that was bad to begin with (hence why I bought one on ebay and never tried it before). I'll let the other one cool down and try swapping it back and see if that makes a difference.

Try to pick up a new DVI wire tomorrow and see if that helps. If not I'm not quite sure what to do except maybe check the inside wiring.

I'm scared to see exactly what my warranty will give me cuz chances are I am not going to like it. But this flickering between light and dark makes the monitor barely usable.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Currently no one has gotten one of these monitors to work with any Laptop, no matter the connector.


I am not too sure this is correct - there are some people reporting success with Yamakasi:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2630#post_16960664
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3850#post_17237354

They are using adapters though - hence the question - will it work with built-in DisplayPort adapter.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> MacBook Pro can.


Thanks for that! Did you try that yourself or maybe could point to a particular post/user on the forum?

Thanks again!


----------



## ImToeKnee

I am so stuck between the Crossover and Catleap!









For the people who have the Crossover, are there any problems with your monitors?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> I am so stuck between the Crossover and Catleap!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the people who have the Crossover, are there any problems with your monitors?


They are all the same internals - just choose which exterior you like the most. If you're stingy about the smallest bezels possible, crossover is a must.

The only thing that seperates them is batches. Crossover had a bad batch not long ago, with flickering problems (both me, 11-11 and a few others got that) however, the latest batch seems to be fine.


----------



## tridium

I returned my broken crossover 27q to Greensum, and then reordered the same monitor with dream-seller. He sent me two! Anyone else get two when only ordering one? I have both of these babies side by side.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tridium*
> 
> I returned my broken crossover 27q to Greensum, and then reordered the same monitor with dream-seller. He sent me two! Anyone else get two when only ordering one? I have both of these babies side by side.


Check your bank balance. Maybe you accidentally were charged, or ordered, two. That seems a little odd to me.


----------



## tridium

i did not use a bank account/credit card, just left over ebay bucks i had from my company buying things on ebay.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tridium*
> 
> i did not use a bank account/credit card, just left over ebay bucks i had from my company buying things on ebay.


You got really lucky. Quickly, delete this post before he notices and charges!


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Yes, it is.
> I posted it a few posts back.
> I got it from Accesorieswhole. I'm waiting to hear back from her. She warned me that bleeding is normal..
> But if this is how they all are, well, I am hoping I can get a refund.


Interesting. How did you disable the blue LED?


----------



## Mkilbride

I took a piece of black tape. Bam. I did the same with the logo.

I hear about people using nail polish remover or scraping the logo off and some removing the LED; but my solution is easy and not perm, has no negative side effects, and looks nicer.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I took a piece of black tape. Bam. I did the same with the logo.
> I hear about people using nail polish remover or scraping the logo off and some removing the LED; but my solution is easy and not perm, has no negative side effects, and looks nicer.


Lol ok. Simple yet elegant.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> MacBook Pro can.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that! Did you try that yourself or maybe could point to a particular post/user on the forum?
> 
> Thanks again!
Click to expand...

My point is that MacBook Pro can output 2560 x 1600. I have a MacBook Pro 2010 here connected to my Apple Cinema 1440p with DP. For other monitors you need an adapters. Nothing is impossible.


----------



## BoredErica

Do Crossovers all have tempered glass? I see only 2 for sale stating the glass, for $400...


----------



## Taget

Changing the dvi cable didn't work. And neither did changing the power supply. Any other ideas before I start trying to beg and plead to square trade and/or RedCap? Only other symptom I can think is the vents by the top of the monitor get quite warm but that doesn't seem terribly unusual for a monitor.

Here is a video I made. Two notes. First from looking closely at the monitor I see a flickering almost like a crt with a low refresh rate. That doesnt show in this. Also I have no clue how to safely clean the screen so I've been neglecting that. So there are a few splotches that is just dirt i need to get off. Just so far been afraid I might do more harm than good removing them.


----------



## LC155

I did notice the crossover gets really warm at the top vent compared to a shimian - but I presume this is because of the metal enclosure which is more heat conductive... which should be better, since it's taking the heat away from the actual panel faster than the plastic based ones can.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Yes, I noticed that as well - my CrossOver casing was much warmer. It's possibly because it is metal, but it's also narrower, so possibly not as much "breathing" room.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> Lol ok. Simple yet elegant.


Well I think it's a damn better idea than scraping it off or using nail polish remover or whatever else people are talking about.

Looks cleaner this way, can't even see the tape unless I go within 2-3 inches of the monitor, blends in perfectly with the bezel.

Probably also be easier, you know, the whole Warranty bit, if you didn't physically remove the logo. Might piss em off or make em question it.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Yes, I noticed that as well - my CrossOver casing was much warmer. It's possibly because it is metal, but it's also narrower, so possibly not as much "breathing" room.


Well, metal is a better heat conductor than air, so if anything it's a good sign! Keeping that heat away from the panel and all.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Thanks for that! Did you try that yourself or maybe could point to a particular post/user on the forum?
> Thanks again!


Yes, it can. I have a 2720MDP and it connects just fine through my thunderbolt port. I heard some people experienced problems whenever the computer went into or came out of sleep while using a straight mini displayport to displayport, so I'm using an Eyefinity validated mini displayport to displayport adater along with a good displayport cable. This gives you the option to pass audio as well (though the monitor's speakers are pretty absymal). I got both the adapter and cable from Amazon, though Monoprice is a good source for cables too.


----------



## LC155

Hrm... just a random fleeting thought I had.

The panels are all the same, but how similar are the PCBs on these monitors? Would one have much of a quality difference over the other? (disregarding the 120hz one)


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> Lol ok. Simple yet elegant.


Yeah this method may make the exterior of the monitor look cleaner I guess but it's not going to help with any of the bleed in the bottom right corner caused by the LED because that is coming up inside the chassis. Unless he opened it and put the tape around LED itself as opposed to just over exterior. Hmm wrapping the LED in tape probably isn't a bad idea, less permanent than removing it. Will have to give it a dig when I get my Crossover out again.


----------



## LC155

Honestly, I didn't have any bleed in the bottom right with my crossover due to the led...


----------



## ImToeKnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tridium*
> 
> I returned my broken crossover 27q to Greensum, and then reordered the same monitor with dream-seller. He sent me two! Anyone else get two when only ordering one? I have both of these babies side by side.


You got 2? Im jelly.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elite2048*
> 
> so I'm using an Eyefinity validated mini displayport to displayport adater along with a good displayport cable.


Didn't realise I'd need an adapter to connect mini-displayport to displayport - wouldn't a cable like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-8M-6-Feet-Displayport-DP-Mini-Displayport-DP-Cable-Macbook-Air-/330762412083?pt=AU_CablesConnectors&hash=item4d02f9e033#ht_1488wt_1156 do the trick?

Could you post a link to your adapter as well? Thanks!


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I did notice the crossover gets really warm at the top vent compared to a shimian - but I presume this is because of the metal enclosure which is more heat conductive... which should be better, since it's taking the heat away from the actual panel faster than the plastic based ones can.


This is normal, you would not imagine my ACD at max brightness, it is hot like you're touching the GPU surface.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> This is normal, you would not imagine my ACD at max brightness, it is hot like you're touching the GPU surface.


Hah, I'd heard one of the reasons the panels may be A- is because they run at hotter temperatures.









But yeah, makes sense, with the ACD being a metal enclosure too (and less venting!)


----------



## Gallien

Mine has started to flicker ever so slightly for about 30 seconds within the first 5 minutes of being on.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Didn't realise I'd need an adapter to connect mini-displayport to displayport - wouldn't a cable like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-8M-6-Feet-Displayport-DP-Mini-Displayport-DP-Cable-Macbook-Air-/330762412083?pt=AU_CablesConnectors&hash=item4d02f9e033#ht_1488wt_1156 do the trick?
> Could you post a link to your adapter as well? Thanks!


The cable you posted seems good, so it may be worth a shot. I bought the adapter and a regular displayport cable because I didn't want to risk having the computer sleep/wake problem. The adapter I'm using is the Accell B112B-001B UltraAV. Amazon should be the first result on Google.

Hope this helps


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Currently no one has gotten one of these monitors to work with any Laptop, no matter the connector.


I got this working with an old Acer Aspire laptop with Nvidia Go 7600 graphics and dual link DVI.
The Nvidia control panel correctly identifies the monitor and resolution, but Windows XP display preferences is set to 1920x1080


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Mine has started to flicker ever so slightly for about 30 seconds within the first 5 minutes of being on.


How long have you had it for?


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> How long have you had it for?


~2 weeks


----------



## gtorz1136

Does anyone here have or has had both this monitor and a Dell U2312HM? If so, what are your thoughts of the two in comparison? I'm still undecided which monitor is a better value/more useful in a college dorm for gaming/movies/internet browsing, and the only thing really stopping me from leaping on the Korean IPS is the size (27" seems huge in comparison to my Laptop's 15" screen) and the build quality I've seen people talk about. Any perspective would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtorz1136*
> 
> Does anyone here have or has had both this monitor and a Dell U2312HM? If so, what are your thoughts of the two in comparison? I'm still undecided which monitor is a better value/more useful in a college dorm for gaming/movies/internet browsing, and the only thing really stopping me from leaping on the Korean IPS is the size (27" seems huge in comparison to my Laptop's 15" screen) and the build quality I've seen people talk about. Any perspective would be greatly appreciated!


I have a U2311H next to me right now. Not the same thing, but close enough.

Honestly? Colours aren't that much different when calibrated. My shimian is slightly more vibrant, and the lack of sparkle makes whites awesome. Size increase is a definite benefit, and it looks huge to me going up from the Dell, so it will be a bigger shock to you.

The build quality is fine. I wouldn't go with the catleap because of having to open it up to VESA mount it, but the shimian and crossover (especially the latter) have excellent build quality. Once you have the perfect panel, if the PCB somehow burns out I'm sure you could get a replacement one for cheap (I've heard red cap can get a hold of them)

The Dell is a good choice, but you wouldn't make any mistakes going for one of these at the prices offered.


----------



## mistax

yaaah it coming tomororow along with my 2150. a little longer than i liked.


----------



## ArtemS

If anybody interested, there seems to be a new model - *3020MDP* - which is *30"* and sells for around $988.


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> If anybody interested, there seems to be a new model - *3020MDP* - which is *30"* and sells for around $988.


wouldn't you just buy a dell at that price.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> wouldn't you just buy a dell at that price.


Currently - yes, but I bet they'll go down in price, as well as the 27"s

Btw - which dell are we talking about?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Forget the 23" Dell, or any other matte 23" IPS panel if you care about the quality of text, whites & light colours.

The Asus VG23AH (280$) uses semi-glossy coating which is much lighter than the grainy garbage the Dell all other matte IPS panels use, it supports 72hz with custom timings and it's 3D (Passive 1920x540p 3D).

Check out my thread here.

I had a CrossOver 27Q LED-P with the dreaded blue tint and I currently have a CrossOver 2720MDP. The only real advtange of the dual-link dvi only Korean models is the size and real-estate which is fantastic for school work. Coming from a 15" laptop though, a 23" will still be a big improvement for school work productivity.


----------



## Mkilbride

Ugh. So now I'm in the process of haggling with Accessorieswhole.

Seems since my GTX670 isn't listed as compatible on the Ebay page, they may claim it's my fault.

Err.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Ugh. So now I'm in the process of haggling with Accessorieswhole.
> Seems since my GTX670 isn't listed as compatible on the Ebay page, they may claim it's my fault.
> Err.


Orly? Alot of people are using GTX 670s or planning to purchase GTX 670s to run these monitors... I have a GTX 670 running my 2560x1440 monitor right now via Dual Link DVI-D...


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Ugh. So now I'm in the process of haggling with Accessorieswhole.
> Seems since my GTX670 isn't listed as compatible on the Ebay page, they may claim it's my fault.
> Err.


I thought your drama was epic back light bleed. How can they possibly try and blame that on any kind of graphics card incompatibility?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> I thought your drama was epic back light bleed. How can they possibly try and blame that on any kind of graphics card incompatibility?


Well they are. I'm obviously fighting them on this matter.

I've got the whole day with nothing to do, hopefully this can be sorted before the end of the week.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I've got the whole day with nothing to do, hopefully this can be sorted before the end of the week.


That's just stupid - blaming the bleed on the card.

Would be easy to disprove that though by just trying it with any other source of video - i.e. other PC or DVD player (provided monitor has got HDMI)?


----------



## Mkilbride

No HDMI ,but I could use a connector.

Besides, anyone with any inkling of knowledge about this kind of thing would know Backlight bleed is a problem with the monitor.

ANyways, they've said they'll take it as a return if "I really want to", kind of weird way to put it...I mean why would I be here in the first place...? Oh well.

No details about that. Two hours ago I sent that email and I'm hoping they'll send another one back with a mailing label or instructions...and I hope I do not have to pay shipping, other users have been divided in this thread, some say they did, some say they don't.

I also asked if they could please check for serious backlight bleeding this time around, or else next time I would be looking for a refund, and no one wants that, just more money on their part, so I think if they could take 10-15, maybe 30 minutes tops to just check for Backlight bleed...I'd be willing to pay an extra 25$ for that.

Seeing how many users here received the same monitor with little(you can't see it at all, unless you plug your face to the monitor and look at it at angles and whatnot) or even the rare none.

That's all I ask. The amount it has now just...well, it looks kinda like if you have a glass TV and and a light is shined on it? And you can't really see any of the detail?

I have that on my bottom right and upper left corners, with a tiny bit on my upper right and almost none on my lower left.

It frustrates me beyond all hell.


----------



## LC155

You'll be looking to pay shipping to a warehouse, but since it's in the same country it shouldn't be too expensive, then they'll refund however much you were charged. It works out better for them this way as having it shipped from the warehouse direct to them is cheaper than you shipping it direct to Korea on their fedex account (it's over 100 bucks that way, so they'll end up losing money over you).

It also gives me a bit of confidence in that they'll be more likely to honour warranty this way, too.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> No HDMI ,but I could use a connector.
> Besides, anyone with any inkling of knowledge about this kind of thing would know Backlight bleed is a problem with the monitor.
> ANyways, they've said they'll take it as a return if "I really want to", kind of weird way to put it...I mean why would I be here in the first place...? Oh well.
> No details about that. Two hours ago I sent that email and I'm hoping they'll send another one back with a mailing label or instructions...and I hope I do not have to pay shipping, other users have been divided in this thread, some say they did, some say they don't.
> I also asked if they could please check for serious backlight bleeding this time around, or else next time I would be looking for a refund, and no one wants that, just more money on their part, so I think if they could take 10-15, maybe 30 minutes tops to just check for Backlight bleed...I'd be willing to pay an extra 25$ for that.
> Seeing how many users here received the same monitor with little(you can't see it at all, unless you plug your face to the monitor and look at it at angles and whatnot) or even the rare none.
> That's all I ask. The amount it has now just...well, it looks kinda like if you have a glass TV and and a light is shined on it? And you can't really see any of the detail?
> I have that on my bottom right and upper left corners, with a tiny bit on my upper right and almost none on my lower left.
> It frustrates me beyond all hell.


I believe 99% of these monitors have some backlight bleeding. Some people claimed their monitors have no bleeding is because they are not sensitive to the bleeding (which is a good thing!). Even if you get a replacement, i will say 99% your replacement unit will have bleeding again.


----------



## Mkilbride

Not as bad bleeding as this, I hope.

And if I does, I return it for good.

Just not worth it.

I guess I'm super sensitive and it renders the monitor unusable to me...so these might just not be for me.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I believe 99% of these monitors have some backlight bleeding. Some people claimed their monitors have no bleeding is because they are not sensitive to the bleeding (which is a good thing!). Even if you get a replacement, i will say 99% your replacement unit will have bleeding again.


This is not true - some are worse than others. I have experienced 3 27" Korean IPS monitors, and they all varied in different ways, including backlight bleed. If you want to be objective, taking a photo from the same distance under the same conditions of each monitor will certainly give you a way to compare. Two of my ShiMians have very very little bleed, and that's an objective comparison vs. a CrossOver I had and some of the photos I see here.


----------



## Mkilbride

Yes, I've seen ones with bare minimal, lines along the edge.

Mine, as you can see in screenshots, scoops down into the picture.

Say I play a movie and it's a nightime seen.

The upper left corner is daytime, basically.


----------



## mistax

okay so it just came so far it looks great. the box didnt come with anything else but the inside protection though. What are the color i should use to check dead pixel. and black light bleeding


----------



## mistax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> okay so it just came so far it looks great. the box didnt come with anything else but the inside protection though. What are the color i should use to check dead pixel. and black light bleeding


quick glance over black/white/red/green/blue backgrounjd looks to be good.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> This is not true - some are worse than others. I have experienced 3 27" Korean IPS monitors, and they all varied in different ways, including backlight bleed. If you want to be objective, taking a photo from the same distance under the same conditions of each monitor will certainly give you a way to compare. Two of my ShiMians have very very little bleed, and that's an objective comparison vs. a CrossOver I had and some of the photos I see here.


Yeah you are right. i guess we all need some luck to get a perfect monitor.


----------



## mistax

okay i think pixel wise it has 0 dead. Now light bleed is there i dont think its the normal amount


----------



## OPENbracket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taget*
> 
> Changing the dvi cable didn't work. And neither did changing the power supply. Any other ideas before I start trying to beg and plead to square trade and/or RedCap? Only other symptom I can think is the vents by the top of the monitor get quite warm but that doesn't seem terribly unusual for a monitor.
> Here is a video I made. Two notes. First from looking closely at the monitor I see a flickering almost like a crt with a low refresh rate. That doesnt show in this. Also I have no clue how to safely clean the screen so I've been neglecting that. So there are a few splotches that is just dirt i need to get off. Just so far been afraid I might do more harm than good removing them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Mine has started to flicker ever so slightly for about 30 seconds within the first 5 minutes of being on.


I had my first monitor start flickering on me after 3 weeks of use. I am currently returning it with AW (they are reimbursing me 100% including shipping, which is awesome). It will get worse and ultimately you wont be able to turn on the monitor. I and 90% sure the culprit is the power supply provided with the monitor. Although my brick says 110v acceptable, I think it ill have some effects on the monitor with prolonged use.
I am currently on my second Crossover monitor, I used the LOADUS brick it came with for the first 5 days and today my 200W transformer came in the mail. It is all hooked up and hopefully I will never see this monitor flicker at me, fingers crossed.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> I had my first monitor start flickering on me after 3 weeks of use. I am currently returning it with AW (they are reimbursing me 100% including shipping, which is awesome). It will get worse and ultimately you wont be able to turn on the monitor. I and 90% sure the culprit is the power supply provided with the monitor. Although my brick says 110v acceptable, I think it ill have some effects on the monitor with prolonged use.
> I am currently on my second Crossover monitor, I used the LOADUS brick it came with for the first 5 days and today my 200W transformer came in the mail. It is all hooked up and hopefully I will never see this monitor flicker at me, fingers crossed.


I hope not, I noticed it happens when the brick gets warmer than usual. I lowered brightness and changed my background to be predominantly black and that seems to make the issue disappear


----------



## mistax

okay so far so good. I'm going to give it 2-3 weeks before i give my feedback on ebay. due to if a malfunction happens i can do a full feedback based on seller helping me get through it. But i just hope it stays all good =).


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> I had my first monitor start flickering on me after 3 weeks of use. I am currently returning it with AW (they are reimbursing me 100% including shipping, which is awesome). It will get worse and ultimately you wont be able to turn on the monitor. I and 90% sure the culprit is the power supply provided with the monitor. Although my brick says 110v acceptable, I think it ill have some effects on the monitor with prolonged use.
> I am currently on my second Crossover monitor, I used the LOADUS brick it came with for the first 5 days and today my 200W transformer came in the mail. It is all hooked up and hopefully I will never see this monitor flicker at me, fingers crossed.


Did you get videos of the flickering? Make sure you do - really.

I had that problem, but AW wasn't able to replicate it apparently. They still refunded it, so it's all good, but still.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I tried 2 different power bricks with my flickering CrossOver, and the flickering did not go away. In my case, it was not related to either the DVI cable or the power adapter that came with my monitor.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Yeah you are right. i guess we all need some luck to get a perfect monitor.


Did anybody get their 'Pixel Perfect' version of monitor? (which is apparently covered by quite comprehensive warranty, judging by AW's ebay listings)

Just wondering how did it go for you, whether you're happy with it?

Thanks!


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Did anybody get their 'Pixel Perfect' version of monitor? (which is apparently covered by quite comprehensive warranty, judging by AW's ebay listings)
> Just wondering how did it go for you, whether you're happy with it?
> Thanks!


I got one a while back. Screen was perfect - no dead pixels, basically zero backlight bleed, good colours etc etc

However, the screen had flickering, so I returned it. Was going to get a replacement, but they ran out of stock. Took a refund instead.

Would I still recommend it? After everything... yeah, I guess so. It was a really good panel, just the flickering. Probably a batch issue so it should be gone now.


----------



## farntheplaya

Just got mine today from DreamSeller. packed perfectly and no issues. Plugged it in 0 dead pixels. No noticeable bleed.

Im using it flawlessly on a computer that run OS X 10.7











Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great feedback. Lots of good detail and thoughtful comments. really helped me make a good buy


----------



## OPENbracket

Thought I should state this... There already is a noticeable difference of using a 200w transformer with my LOADUS brick . Before after a few hours the top of my monitor (especially top left) would be very warm, almost even hot. I've been browsing reddit and playing some games for about 4 hours now and there is no hot spot on my monitor, everything is cool to the touch.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> Thought I should state this... There already is a noticeable difference of using a 200w transformer with my LOADUS brick . Before after a few hours the top of my monitor (especially top left) would be very warm, almost even hot. I've been browsing reddit and playing some games for about 4 hours now and there is no hot spot on my monitor, everything is cool to the touch.


Can you link the brick you're talking about? My crossover got warm too, so I'm interested in this.


----------



## prodatype

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farntheplaya*
> 
> Just got mine today from DreamSeller. packed perfectly and no issues. Plugged it in 0 dead pixels. No noticeable bleed.
> Im using it flawlessly on a computer that run OS X 10.7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great feedback. Lots of good detail and thoughtful comments. really helped me make a good buy


When did you order yours from dreamseller? I ordered mine from him on July 27th and I have yet to receive any updates from ebay.


----------



## Mkilbride

Mmkay.

Got a return going, whew, 70$ shipping to their warehouse, expensive, but they shall re-inburse me, supposedly.

Still, got to wait for it to get there, then they'll do like a 30 day shipping back to Korea...

So all and all, it's like 5 weeks before I'll get a new monitor or my money back.

Kinda annoying. But that's dealing internationally for you.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Kinda annoying. But that's dealing internationally for you.


Please keep us posted and we shall learn how good your seller is.


----------



## mistax

is that okay for backliught bleeding.


----------



## ArtemS

Hi guys,

I've been wondering what the price fluctuations are like for those monitors, so I built this little tool to track the prices on the ebay.

http://23.21.239.35:8000/

Currently it just shows the hourly snapshots for search query "ips 27" in monitors. It's barely in alpha state, some things may not work yet.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> is that okay for backliught bleeding.


Is that low backlight?

Can't really tell. Jack it up to max brightness and stand further back to emphasise it.


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> Thought I should state this... There already is a noticeable difference of using a 200w transformer with my LOADUS brick . Before after a few hours the top of my monitor (especially top left) would be very warm, almost even hot. I've been browsing reddit and playing some games for about 4 hours now and there is no hot spot on my monitor, everything is cool to the touch.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Can you link the brick you're talking about? My crossover got warm too, so I'm interested in this.


I am also very interested. I received the same Loadus brick, and the one thing I have been concerned about this entire time is the power delivery.


----------



## ACallander

What is the difference between the Crossover GOLD LED and Crossover LED-P?

I guess, what does the GOLD mean? A different stand?


----------



## Asmodean

Dunno if you're interested, or know already, but this is an english translation of the review (Original Korean review links) conclusion scores of the Crossover 27Q

*Display*

*Panel*: LG 27-inch LED-backlit panel and light S-IPS Panel viewing angle.
*Resolution*: 2560 x 1440 (QHD) high resolution
*response time*: 6ms/m²
*brightness*: 370cd ordnance
*contrast ratio*: 1100-1200: 1
*color gamut*: NTSC-79% sRGB: 113% gamma: 1.9 (standard 2.2) *
***Specifications in good results: the General environment from room-side-but exaggerated saturation, not a bunch of ... If you prefer a colour scheme is rather weird coming is a good choice might be. -Professional experience: somewhat exaggerated saturation due to the need of calibration.

*Display Score: 8.5*

*Ease-of-use*

-Bypass the OSD, tilt functionality in a way that coarse.
*Ease-of-use Score: 6*

*Dimensions*

Black and white that Rossi's stand and clean design of the steel body. 3cm of thin thickness-the elegant CrossOver. Features, but at the end of the 2% is low, luxury ...
*Dimensions Score: 8*

*Price-to-performance ratio*

The cheapest, but the contrast the same panel products, affordable prices.
*Price-to-performance Score: 8*

*Other*

-LED backlighting, a relatively high power consumption. See A/S-one Board is just such a level ...
*Other Score: 7.5*

*The total points: 7.9/10*


----------



## OPENbracket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghabhaducha*
> 
> I am also very interested. I received the same Loadus brick, and the one thing I have been concerned about this entire time is the power delivery.


LOADUS brick


----------



## mistax

aaaaah. Alright i didnt have brightness all the way up. Just sitting @ 50% lol. my bad


----------



## mistax

i just took this about 10 feet away with max brightness, but since it day timme might be hard to see.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Is that low backlight?
> Can't really tell. Jack it up to max brightness and stand further back to emphasise it.


Yes.

That is great, I wish I had backlight bleeding along those levels.

Mine is much worse


----------



## ElevenEleven

For reference, here's "bleed" on one of my ShiMians:



(higher ISO


-- not much of anything there! (this is at max brightness with a blank black screen.

And here is what IPS polarization glow means (taking a photo up close) - *this is not backlight bleed:*



So yes, close to no bleed is very possible with Korean monitors.


----------



## Mkilbride

Yes, I know what IPS glow is, but that monitor below it has bleed as well. Just minimal. Taking a picture with a camera highlights it easier, but the further you are away, the harder it is to see.

My picture is 10 feet away, when you're supposed to be unable to see IPS glow any more.

And you can quite clearly see the bleed, still.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Not arguing with you, just posting a general example for people who confuse IPS glow with backlight bleed, which happens frequently.


----------



## TarballX

So from googling "Apple cinema display yellow" I discovered that a ton of people have gotten ACDs and iMacs with yellow tinge as bad as or worse than what I have on my Crossover.. and they paid 3x the price..
I think I'll be keeping this since it has no other issues..


----------



## djriful

My friend received his today and I drove over to his place to test and check for him. Apparently from RED-CAP seller, they ship LOADUS brick... which runs very very hot. The one I bought from GREENSUM was Welltronic brand, the brick is warm and it is written 110v+ but this LOADUS is 190v+. I'm not sure would this last.


----------



## mistax

my greensum came with a loadus


----------



## SpeedTheory

Finally decide to purchase from dream-seller, and now this holiday break thing. Ugh.

Any other great experiences with the basic 27q? IE, typically good seller delivering good quality pieces?


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpeedTheory*
> 
> Finally decide to purchase from dream-seller, and now this holiday break thing. Ugh.
> Any other great experiences with the basic 27q? IE, typically good seller delivering good quality pieces?


This is highly tangental, but sorry I just cannot help it. From the little analysis and data collection (just last few days) there seem to be an interesting pattern emerging in pricing.

For instance, this seller - ta_planet - has been marking down his 27Q monitors (apparently I cannot post links to ebay listings here, so help yourself with 23.21.239.35:8000).

On one instance, he posted listing for Perfect Pixel version of 27Q PIVOT starting at $500, which he marked down to $465 after a day (approx.)
On another instance, he posted 27Q PIVOT (non pixel-perfect) for $299 only to mark it down to $265.
Another one, 27Q with tempered glass, posted for $399 and marked down to $389.

While this is not a huge deal or revelation of any kind, it is interesting to watch these trends. There's a whole lot of more interesting patterns out there which I can't explain - like price constantly jumping up and down every hour.

Again, sorry for not answering your question


----------



## Jethric

For anyone who is still interested, AW finally got another shipment of the 27q LED-P Pixel Perfect monitors. My order was shipped this morning and I will make sure to post pictures and examine for any backlight bleed/dead pixels when it arrives (which is most likely going to be sometime this week).


----------



## Asmodean

Does anyone have a GTX 680 with these monitors?

I'm about to buy CROSSOVER 2720MDP GOLD LED PIVOT Perfect Pixel but I'm worried that it won't work with the 680 as it's not on the "compatibility" list, it only goes up to the GTX 580..

*Edit:* I forgot to mention, I'll be buying a seperate PSU for it, as I hear the power brick you get with these monitors is pretty low quality. Does anyone know if this one will work: Genuine Channel Well Technology (CWT) CAD060121, it's supposed to be good high quality.

[Copy/paste from my own thread]

The new version apprently uses the new E3 2012 LG panel, and firmware. Reviews of the old version, and new version below.

Still worried about the lifespan of these things though, It may be cheaper than the big brand names but it's still 500+ euro. I'd pay the extra no problem for the dell U2711, if it didn't have that crappy anti glare coating on it, which i hate.

Reviews Note: Use Google Translate for it in english.

OLD VERSION REVIEW

NEW VERSION REVIEW


----------



## Qu1ckset

Am i the only one who thinks the redesign looks ugly?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> Does anyone have a GTX 680 with these monitors?
> I'm about to buy CROSSOVER 2720MDP GOLD LED PIVOT Perfect Pixel but I'm worried that it won't work with the 680 as it's not "compatibility" list, it only goes up to the GTX 580..
> *Edit:* I forgot to mention, I'll be buying a seperate PSU for it, as I hear the power brick you get with these monitors is pretty low quality. Does anyone know if this one will work: Genuine Channel Well Technology (CWT) CAD060121, it's supposed to be good high quality.


yes the 680 works with this monitor , im using the gtx 690, if your crossover comes with the welltronics brick your fine, the brick you listed in the link will not work, its the wrong connect to the monitor but this will work:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300555688796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Am i the only one who thinks the redesign looks ugly?


No, I agree - it's very cheap looking, especially when compared to the current black/white metal cases 27Q LEDs have.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> No, I agree - it's very cheap looking, especially when compared to the current black/white metal cases 27Q LEDs have.


just looked at red-caps ad on ebay to see more pics of it and everything about looks crappier
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MATTE-non-glare-PERFECT-PIXELS-CROSSOVER-27-27HLED-1920x1080-LED-HDMI-Monitor-/221010969543?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337547c3c7


----------



## SpeedTheory

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-27-LED-MONITOR-QHD-2560X1440-HIGH-RESOLUTION-DVI-D-DUAL-PC-/320878429739?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab5d8462b#ht_7870wt_1165

Picked that up from ta_planet this morning.

Anything else I'll need to get?


----------



## Asmodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> yes the 680 works with this monitor , im using the gtx 690, if your crossover comes with the welltronics brick your fine, the brick you listed in the link will not work, its the wrong connect to the monitor but this will work:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/300555688796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Thanks very much for the info +1, much appreciated. Just wondering, if either of these two is the correct model, as id prefere to buy from amazon, if not I'll get the ebay one.

DmTech TV AC Adapter, 24V 5A 120W

4 Pin type 12V 7A AC adapter for TVs

Thanks again









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpeedTheory*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-27-LED-MONITOR-QHD-2560X1440-HIGH-RESOLUTION-DVI-D-DUAL-PC-/320878429739?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab5d8462b#ht_7870wt_1165
> Picked that up from ta_planet this morning.
> Anything else I'll need to get?


I would (personally) go about getting your own power supply, I've been doing a lot of research before commiting to buying these Korean monitors, as I'm on the last of my budget after buying my rebuilt parts, and numerious issues with the PSU that comes with the monitors, EG: not compatible with USA/EU 100%, can cause monitor flickering after a while, and shutting off after long use etc.

Better to be safe imo, already taking enough risk buying these.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> Thanks very much for the info +1, much appreciated. Just wondering, if either of these two is the correct model, as id prefere to buy from amazon, if not I'll get the ebay one.
> DmTech TV AC Adapter, 24V 5A 120W
> 4 Pin type 12V 7A AC adapter for TVs
> Thanks again


Do you need a 120V adapter? I thought Ireland is at 230-240V. People who get replacement adapters are mostly from countries that use lower voltages, such as the U.S., because some of those 190V+ adapters seem to break after some period of use here. I would assume you should be okay with most adapters that come as stock with these monitors, such as Welltronics. Lower voltage conditions mean higher resistance and therefore heat, so replacement adapters are relevant for those of us on 120V.


----------



## Asmodean

It's more to get a higher quality power supply, rather then compatibility to be honest. If i'm going to spend 500+ euro on a display, another 20 isn't going to make much different for more reliability tbh.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> Thanks very much for the info +1, much appreciated. Just wondering, if either of these two is the correct model, as id prefere to buy from amazon, if not I'll get the ebay one.
> DmTech TV AC Adapter, 24V 5A 120W
> 4 Pin type 12V 7A AC adapter for TVs
> Thanks again


those should both be fine, whats your voltage in your country 110v?


----------



## Asmodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> those should both be fine, whats your voltage in your country 110v?


Irelands voltage is 220v, although I've no real knowledge on voltage standards myself though.

http://homepages.iol.ie/~discover/elect.htm

Just bought, and payed for the Monitor there, seriously hope to get a high quality one, considering it was the most expensive (being perfect pixel, new version, and better stand) at 550 euro ~660 USD

The one I bought

Fingers crossed lol


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> It's more to get a higher quality power supply, rather then compatibility to be honest. If i'm going to spend 500+ euro on a display, another 20 isn't going to make much different for more reliability tbh.


I'm not certain those replacement power supplies are necessarily higher quality. They could be the same or even worse than those supplied with your monitor, depending on what replacement you get and what is supplied with your monitor. I have not seen any direct comparisons. The bricks that come with the monitors are made in Korea. Replacement bricks are usually made in China and not by some well-known companies, so make your own conclusion.

Sellers themselves at least claim that Loadus is better as well as "upgraded" Welltronics from ta_planet with a larger choke. I'm using 2 of the latter at the moment on 120V (they are rated 110+, which is why I wanted them to begin with), but I also had no issues with my stock Nanjing Frontek brick that came with my ShiMian - I just knew there was a good chance it would eventually fail after running at 120V. Have noticed zero performance impact swapping between 190V+ Loadus, 190V+ Nanjing Frontek, and 2 of the "upgraded" Welltronics bricks. The Nanjing Frontek one ran the coolest of the 4.


----------



## mistax

phew thank god i got mine early =). i'm loving it so far. Everything just looks better with a gloss screen =P. Color look different from my 2407 though.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> Irelands voltage is 220v, although I've no real knowledge on voltage standards myself though.
> http://homepages.iol.ie/~discover/elect.htm
> Just bought, and payed for the Monitor there, seriously hope to get a high quality one, considering it was the most expensive (being perfect pixel, new version, and better stand) at 550 euro ~660 USD
> The one I bought
> Fingers crossed lol


Your prolly going to be the first member in this thread to buy the new style crossover, can you please take alot of pics of it when you get it, I'm really curious to how it looks with normal pics unlike those crappy pics on eBay


----------



## SpeedTheory

ta_planet indicated that he'd be including a Welltronics brick with mine, I assume that'll be fine.


----------



## Qu1ckset

So these new model crossovers with new screens, there only the 2720MDP??
I haven't seen any of the new style bezels without the multi inputs.. so your just going to be stuck with input lag?


----------



## Asmodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So these new model crossovers with new screens, there only the 2720MDP??
> I haven't seen any of the new style bezels without the multi inputs.. so your just going to be stuck with input lag?


I dunno about actual input lag, but according to This Original Review, of the old and new models, it has very good Response for an IPS (new model) better than all the other korean ones.

I hopefully would'nt even notice it anyway, because my current monitor is also a multi display, it has like 15 different inputs xD http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/10/lg1.png/#

Edit: I'll be sure to take loads of pictures, ..provided i can find my dig camera


----------



## Dabb

The monitor that people have been linking in the last few posts is of the 2720MDP; this does have an inferior design IMO but it's in no way meant to be the new replacement. It's simply a monitor with different inputs that's also manufactured by Crossover.


----------



## Althulas

I was getting a bit confused with all these PSU replacement but does this producthttp://shop.hunterfield.co.uk/epages/es136853.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es136853/Products/ST24V5A4P12 have the correct 4 pin output?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> I was getting a bit confused with all these PSU replacement but does this producthttp://shop.hunterfield.co.uk/epages/es136853.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es136853/Products/ST24V5A4P12 have the correct 4 pin output?


Hard to tell. Looks like it. But I'd suggest just using one of the power bricks mentioned previously in the thread that have already been guaranteed to work.


----------



## capitalj

Not a fan of how the new design looks.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capitalj*
> 
> Not a fan of how the new design looks.


Which design are you talking about specifically? There has not been a redesign of the 27q and the 2720MDP has always looked a bit tacky.


----------



## Asmodean

Is it weird that I'm more excited about my monitor than I am about the new 3770k, Asus maximus V, gtx 680 sc sig 2, 2133 ram, and nzxt phantom tower case behind me waiting to be built?

Monitor's in Germany at the moment apprently.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> Is it weird that I'm more excited about my monitor than I am about the new 3770k, Asus maximus V, gtx 680 sc sig 2, 2133 ram, and nzxt phantom tower case behind me waiting to be built?
> Monitor's in Germany at the moment apprently.


Not at all.

This monitor is what all that stuff will show up on. It's kinda the most important part, in a way.


----------



## SupZe

Just got my monitor (27q LED-P) yesterday and it's perfect, ordered it Sunday afternoon.
No dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleed. Shipping was fast. No problems so far.

The only downside is that even on the lowest brightness it's still pretty bright, at least in my eyes.

Is the LED driver on a separate PCB or is there a clear seperation on the existing PCB? Might try to replace it with a modified circuit with a wider brightness range.


----------



## Gallien

The flashing on mine is getting annoying. I asked for a replacement. BCC said EMI from my pc being ~6 inches away could cause it. I am skeptical about it, but willing to test anything.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> The flashing on mine is getting annoying. I asked for a replacement. BCC said EMI from my pc being ~6 inches away could cause it. I am skeptical about it, but willing to test anything.


Sounds like a load of BS to me I've never suffered that problem from having my rig in close proximity to my monitor.

Mines started the flickering and screen going blank for a second or so I'm convinced it's the PSU at fault. I'll be trying a replacement if the one listed in the thread http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300555688796?redirect=mobile cures the problem for other people, but I've seen a 200w rated one on eBay but asking about £80 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERPAX-PTD-24083-ADAPTOR-24V-8-3A-C14-4PIN-DIN-200W-/130697697587?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item1e6e309933


----------



## Descadent

I made redcap an offer for 3, we'll see if they ever accept


----------



## VoidXC

So I returned my broken monitor to BCC. Luckily he paid for return shipping and said he would keep the payment on him if he tested it and found that it was broken. He got it, tested and did indeed agree that it was broken, so he paid the return cost in full and shipped me a new one. I just got it today and it's working really well. 1 stuck pixel that I don't notice during normal operation, only on a fully black screen, and no noticeable back light bleed. This monitor is really amazing and I hope it continues to work!

And for anyone curious, I guess BCC is a good one to buy from since he will pay for return costs if it is broken.


----------



## Jethric

Pixel perfect monitor arrived, but seeing as my graphics card has not arrived yet, I don't have any way of testing it at the moment. Quick question: I got the Welltronics power supply hooked up to the monitor (with the green light on the power supply), but I still cannot turn on the monitor with the power button on the back. Is this normal? Do you need to plug it in to a PC through the DL-DVI port to get any picture at all (I just wanted to turn the backlight on to check for bleed).


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> Pixel perfect monitor arrived, but seeing as my graphics card has not arrived yet, I don't have any way of testing it at the moment. Quick question: I got the Welltronics power supply hooked up to the monitor (with the green light on the power supply), but I still cannot turn on the monitor with the power button on the back. Is this normal? Do you need to plug it in to a PC through the DL-DVI port to get any picture at all (I just wanted to turn the backlight on to check for bleed).


I believe so. It won't do anything without a signal.


----------



## Mkilbride

Well, they got my monitor today, and they don't do weekends, so hopefully Monday or Tuesday they'll attempt to deliver the replacement...

Getting my second 670 today - will be a massive help @ 1440p, where my FPS was cut in half, due to pushing twice the pixels.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Well, they got my monitor today, and they don't do weekends, so hopefully Monday or Tuesday they'll attempt to deliver the replacement...
> 
> Getting my second 670 today - will be a massive help @ 1440p, where my FPS was cut in half, due to pushing twice the pixels.


It only cuts 15-20% of the performance... not 50%....


----------



## SpeedTheory

Got my monitor from TA Planet today (missed delivery yesterday so went to FedEX to pick up). Took three days to get here (!).

No dead pixels, no noticeable backlight bleed. I couldn't be happier!


----------



## jpdaballa

hey guys im planning on buying the Crossover tomorrow. could you guys provide me with some info before i do?

Who is the best seller on ebay? (example- has the best response rate to questions and refund policy)

I know their are 3 versions of the crossover (LED LEDP and gold)- but what are the differences between them?

Which would be the best for me to purchase if i want one that has a movable stand (i can move it up and down or tilt and such..)

it seems like perfect pixel doesn't really matter does it?

I would really appreciate it if you guys could link me the ebay URL for the crossover that sounds best for me and the best seller. I really appreciate any help since im still a newbie with these Korean monitors, Thanks!!


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> hey guys im planning on buying the Crossover tomorrow. could you guys provide me with some info before i do?
> Who is the best seller on ebay? (example- has the best response rate to questions and refund policy)
> I know their are 3 versions of the crossover (LED LEDP and gold)- but what are the differences between them?
> Which would be the best for me to purchase if i want one that has a movable stand (i can move it up and down or tilt and such..)
> it seems like perfect pixel doesn't really matter does it?
> I would really appreciate it if you guys could link me the ebay URL for the crossover that sounds best for me and the best seller. I really appreciate any help since im still a newbie with these Korean monitors, Thanks!!


read the thread, every single question has been answered multiple times in detail.


----------



## prodatype

I just got my Crossovers yesterday. Finally set up everything today. I bought one from dreamseller and one from accessorieswhole. I ordered from dreamseller on July 27th and it came in on August 3rd. I ordered from accessorieswhole on August 1st and got on August 3rd. The one from dreamseller was a pixel perfect and the one from accessorieswhole was a regular sale.


the box on the left is from dreamseller and the right is from accessorieswhole


A personalized note from dreamseller. I emailed him on july 30th to see if he was mailing it before his vacation.


testing the monitors to check for any dead/stuck pixels or bad bleeding. White version is from accessorieswhole.


final set up with a dual monitor stand. The red pixel is not a stuck pixel on the monitor but a stuck pixel on my dslr which i just found about with this picture









overall I am very happy with both monitors!


----------



## LC155

That's quite a mismatch you've got there!

Interesting that dream-seller does PP Crossovers now, and cheaper than AW to boot.


----------



## SpeedTheory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> hey guys im planning on buying the Crossover tomorrow. could you guys provide me with some info before i do?
> Who is the best seller on ebay? (example- has the best response rate to questions and refund policy)
> I know their are 3 versions of the crossover (LED LEDP and gold)- but what are the differences between them?
> Which would be the best for me to purchase if i want one that has a movable stand (i can move it up and down or tilt and such..)
> it seems like perfect pixel doesn't really matter does it?
> I would really appreciate it if you guys could link me the ebay URL for the crossover that sounds best for me and the best seller. I really appreciate any help since im still a newbie with these Korean monitors, Thanks!!


I was happy with TA Planet. DCSamsungMall and Dream Seller are also reputable on here.

You want the LED-P as it pivots and raises up and down as you describe.

I did not purchase a perfect pixel display, but TA Planet sent me one without any dead pixels / backlight bleed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-PC-MONITOR-DVI-D-DUAL-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-PIVOT-TILT-/320878438026?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab5d8668a#ht_8798wt_1163

Is what I'd recommend.


----------



## Asmodean

Just checked my package tracking there again today for the CrossOver 2720mdp and it has arrived in Dublin, tracker says:

Aug 5, 2012 1:59 PM || In transit || DUBLIN IE || Package available for clearance

I'm assuming this means it's in customs, and I'm about to be hit with a big fat custom duty


----------



## LC155

It'll be about £40 for customs on average.


----------



## Mkilbride

Well my new one should either be shipping Tuesday or arriving Tuesday. I'm not sure, the broken English they used in the email is not entirely clear:

Quote:


> Well received your message.
> 
> Hope I could arrange replacement on Tuesday.
> 
> Let you know any changes happen.


Guess I'll know Tuesday.


----------



## LC155

It'll be shipping tuesday.


----------



## newchemicals

Mkilbride: I can't wait to hear how this all turns out. Hope the new unit has no issues.


----------



## Mkilbride

Hard to say.

Last time I ordered on Monday, it arrived Tuesday. They over nighted it.

Either way, it'll arrive before the end of the week and I am fine with that.

Just got my second GTX670 and now need a very long and fexliable SLI cable, which I bought on Amazon, due to arrived Wednesday, so I'm fine. Thermal tape didn't stick well and some of the heatsinks are kinda hanging off, but to late now.


----------



## Sebold

I'm planning to buy the CrossOver 27 LED-P from "green-sum", any experiences about this shop?


----------



## djriful

You know you guys can ask/request to lower the value marked on the box to be charged less in custom and taxes? My friend got his for $20 fee.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebold*
> 
> I'm planning to buy the CrossOver 27 LED-P from "green-sum", any experiences about this shop?
> 
> I got mine from him, review is in my sig.


----------



## frostythefox

After a long time of thinking hard, I believe I'm going to purchase 3x Crossover 27q Perfect Pixel.

Unfortunately, this means I need to get 2x mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI. Which, is kinda disappointing to have to spend ~$200 extra for those + cables... (Since I'm going to be buying an XFX 7970).

Either way, I think I'm doing everything right. I'm choosing AccessoriesWhole and I'm going to use my Credit Card to pay, since they'll automagically extend the warranty by 12 months. Giving me a 2 year warranty on each monitor.

If I'm doing this wrong, tell me now! haha.. >.<;


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostythefox*
> 
> After a long time of thinking hard, I believe I'm going to purchase 3x Crossover 27q Perfect Pixel.
> 
> Unfortunately, this means I need to get 2x mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI. Which, is kinda disappointing to have to spend ~$200 extra for those + cables... (Since I'm going to be buying an XFX 7970).
> 
> Either way, I think I'm doing everything right. I'm choosing AccessoriesWhole and I'm going to use my Credit Card to pay, since they'll automagically extend the warranty by 12 months. Giving me a 2 year warranty on each monitor.
> 
> If I'm doing this wrong, tell me now! haha.. >.<;


You only need one... Those 2 DVI are DVI-I and DVI-D Dual Link supported. Both can run those monitors without problems.

Nvm, that pic is wrong... sucks that 7970 only have 1 DVI. GTX 680 has 2.

Someone need to correct me, HD 6970 has 2x DVI Dual Link... why 7970 is lacking in that?


----------



## frostythefox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> You only need one... Those 2 DVI are DVI-I and DVI-D Dual Link supported. Both can run those monitors without problems.
> 
> Nvm, that pic is wrong... sucks that 7970 only have 1 DVI. GTX 680 has 2.
> 
> Someone need to correct me, HD 6970 has 2x DVI Dual Link... why 7970 is lacking in that?


I don't know... but it's really stupid... >.<;;
I mean, I guess they're assuming most higher-resolution monitors will be using displayport rather than Dual-Link DVI... It's really annoying that I have to pay the $200 premium for a conversion. :/ It /almost/ makes it worth getting the gold version.. that is.. if it didn't look so ugly.. >.<;


----------



## Descadent

is anyone running 7600x1440 with just 1 graphics card successfully? I have a chance to accept offer of 345 each from red cap on 3 crossovers, but I really don't want to spend money to buy two graphics card to power it....(well wife won't let me) or should I just get 3 1080p monitors for 5760x1080?


----------



## LC155

I'd say still get the 1440p's. You might not get THAT great performance, but the monitor is the most important step in getting quality. You won't regret it.

If you really want it, just sneak a second graphics card in sometime.


----------



## Descadent

I am meaning 1 card for gaming at 7680x1440.


----------



## djriful

I don't have a wife but why would a wife not letting you to use your money? (unless its her?)


----------



## jpdaballa

"At our store, our goal is to ensure Full satisfaction with your purchase.
We offer Exchange or Repair when there is the defects of the item or misrepresentation on listings.
All return items for a refund must be unopened and new condition, in their original box
including all packing material. Shipping and Handling are not refundable."

above is the return policy. So is basically says that if we open the box and plug in the monitor to see if it is defective then we cant return it??? "All return items for a refund must be unopened"

Can anyone give me an estimate as to how much the customs tax will be if i live in California?

"the whole shipping cost to send it back to Korea and send it to your country will be charged on buyer's side."
it seems risky because if you dont like the product you basically have to pay over 200 dollars to ship it back to them?? This is starting to get sketchy real fast...


----------



## mistax

*** it's 25 dollar cheaper now QQ.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I don't have a wife but why would a wife not letting you to use your money? (unless its her?)


it's both our money and it's called being married you have to give a little.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I don't have a wife but why would a wife not letting you to use your money? (unless its her?)
> 
> 
> 
> it's both our money and it's called being married you have to give a little.
Click to expand...

Maybe someday I'll understand over here. Silly me.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prodatype*
> 
> I just got my Crossovers yesterday.


Sad, the white version comes with that tacky black/white rim base... Not like the solid white base shown on the advertisement photos. Looks like ta_planet finally carries one as well.

Could you take more photos of it from various angles, please?


----------



## prodatype

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Sad, the white version comes with that tacky black/white rim base... Not like the solid white base shown on the advertisement photos. Looks like ta_planet finally carries one as well.
> Could you take more photos of it from various angles, please?


Yeah sucks about the base stand but I didn't really care since I was getting a dual monitor stand anyways. Here are some more angles of the white version


----------



## jpdaballa

Instead of paying 100+ dollars for the gold version would this adapter cable be a better option so i can hook my computer to my plasma to watch movies? (basically will this transmit the signal audio+picture to my plasma?)

http://www.amazon.com/Link-Depot-Plated-DVI-D-DVI-5-HDMI/dp/B00180F420/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344239723&sr=1-4&keywords=dual+dvi+to+hdmi

or anyone know a better one?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> Instead of paying 100+ dollars for the gold version would this adapter cable be a better option so i can hook my computer to my plasma to watch movies? (basically will this transmit the signal audio+picture to my plasma?)
> http://www.amazon.com/Link-Depot-Plated-DVI-D-DVI-5-HDMI/dp/B00180F420/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344239723&sr=1-4&keywords=dual+dvi+to+hdmi
> or anyone know a better one?


Why do you need Dual Link?

ANyways, you just need a basic HDMI cable to hook up your Graphics card to your TV, unless you don't have HDMI on your card, then any DVI to HDMI cable will work.

I recommend monoprice, much cheaper, though shipping can change that:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231

Also, there is no true HDMI to DVI-D Dual Link cable. They don't transmit double signals, only one, so it's the same as a single link DVI-D cable.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> You only need one... Those 2 DVI are DVI-I and DVI-D Dual Link supported. Both can run those monitors without problems.
> 
> Nvm, that pic is wrong... sucks that 7970 only have 1 DVI. GTX 680 has 2.
> 
> Someone need to correct me, HD 6970 has 2x DVI Dual Link... why 7970 is lacking in that?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostythefox*
> 
> I don't know... but it's really stupid... >.<;;
> I mean, I guess they're assuming most higher-resolution monitors will be using displayport rather than Dual-Link DVI... It's really annoying that I have to pay the $200 premium for a conversion. :/ It /almost/ makes it worth getting the gold version.. that is.. if it didn't look so ugly.. >.<;


The much better designed 7970 Vapor-X 6GB has 2x Dual link DVI, 2x mini displayport and hdmi.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> The much better designed 7970 Vapor-X 6GB has 2x Dual link DVI, 2x mini displayport and hdmi.


I highly doubt that the 2x DVI and HDMI will be capable of working at the same time as the GPU has only 2 clock gens (unless there is added third party one like with Sapphire fleX cards) and all legacy connectors need reference clock signal. You are probably confined to max 4 screens with that card anyway as the GPU can put only out 6 streams (that's why eyefinity is limited to 6 screens) and both dual link DVI's consume 2 streams.


----------



## amazing235

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VoidXC*
> 
> So I returned my broken monitor to BCC. Luckily he paid for return shipping and said he would keep the payment on him if he tested it and found that it was broken. He got it, tested and did indeed agree that it was broken, so he paid the return cost in full and shipped me a new one. I just got it today and it's working really well. 1 stuck pixel that I don't notice during normal operation, only on a fully black screen, and no noticeable back light bleed. This monitor is really amazing and I hope it continues to work!
> And for anyone curious, I guess BCC is a good one to buy from since he will pay for return costs if it is broken.


Good for you.
I guess now many Korean seller provides return shipping for free, including BCC.
I only knew that AW provides for it since they started their selling for monitor.

But it is strange that they said "if monitor has defect, take full responsibility for return shipping".

Aren't BCC provide 1 year warranty for it?
Were you suppose to pay for return shipping for replacement?

That sounds quite obnoxious to me.


----------



## Asmodean

Yesterday on my fedex tracking it said:

Aug 6, 2012 9:16 AM || Clearance delay - Import || DUBLIN IE || In clearance process.

Now it says:

Aug 7, 2012 11:26 AM || International shipment release - Import || DUBLIN IE

Ummm...does this mean it has gotten passed customs? lol


----------



## JayCop

Got me CrossOver 27Q LED-P and had 1 dead pixel which I can not find unless I use the dead pixel white only image. Very happy with the quality. I just hope this doesn't make me order more


----------



## MechaCthulhu

Hello, first post here.

So I took the gamble and ordered a 27q-p from red-cap. I emailed beforehand that I was concerned about getting one with a yellow tint, they replied that they "test" them before shipping. Unfortunately mine has a number of issues:

1. The power light was dented in and broken, but the white edge bellow it was not. This looks like it happened BEFORE shipping.
2. The bottom third has a yellowish/warm cast. Will try calibrating tonight and see if that helps.
There is a slight dent on the bezel on the left side. Does not look like it could have happened beforehand.
3. The box was punctured and looked liked it was dropped on one corner.
4. One dead pixel upper left third.
5. There is random flashing bright pixels, looks almost like interference. I tried another cable. Seems to go away after awhile.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e5s6h01gzo28vwc/2012-08-06%2016.37.06.jpg

Having trouble with drop box links will fix when I get home.

Jason


----------



## Omegawd

I just got my monitor today. It looks amazing, now that I've got it working. It's going to take a while for me to adjust to this resolution, everything looks so tiny and sharp.


----------



## SupZe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Omegawd*
> 
> I just got my monitor today. It looks amazing, now that I've got it working. It's going to take a while for me to adjust to this resolution, everything looks so tiny and sharp.


So what was the issue? I wanted to reply before but got distracted


----------



## Gdiguy

My 27Q from ta_planet arrived yesterday after ordering last thursday night; 1 green stuck pixel in the center (like 3/4 of the way down the screen) and 3 or 4 black stuck pixels on the right side, but otherwise it looks very good (I don't notice any bad lighting issues). Build quality is definitely pretty good - I think it's sturdier than my old Viewsonic is.

I am however definitely seeing the loadus '110v is acceptable' brick gets pretty hot pretty fast, so I have a transformer ordered from amazon.. hopefully that should fix that for good.

It's not showing the bios screens, which is probably because I have a 5770, but luckily I have a 2nd monitor that can view them fine


----------



## Omegawd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SupZe*
> 
> So what was the issue? I wanted to reply before but got distracted


Blah, I'm caught. The issue was the buttons on the front aren't touch based like I had thought($500~). I was trying to power the monitor on by touching the power indicator on the front. I had already assumed this was the case though, so in my defense I felt all around the bottom, and sides of the monitor, and I couldn't find any physical buttons. After physically turning the monitor around, I found the buttons. The power button is located about 1.5 inches up on the back of the monitor. Basically, to find it once it's facing the right way, I have to stick half of my hand behind the screen in order to reach it. I guess this is so there's absolutely no possible way you can accidentally turn it off. Anyway... once I found the power button, I just turned the monitor on. LOL.


----------



## TSXmike

ordered my crossover on monday... i cant contain myself.


----------



## MechaCthulhu

Can anyone tell me if this yellowing is normal for IPS?



Here is the damaged light:


----------



## ElevenEleven

Yes, it's normal for these monitors and even the Apple monitors. Some panels have it a lot more noticeable than others - pretty random.


----------



## MechaCthulhu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Yes, it's normal for these monitors and even the Apple monitors. Some panels have it a lot more noticeable than others - pretty random.


Bummer. Would you consider mine as average or excessive? I am trying to decide if it is worth the hassle of returning, or taking it apart to fix the power light since there is only one dead pixel.

Is this because it's LED instead of whatever Dell uses?

Thanks. I am still sifting through all the threads.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Earlier I had stated that the CrossOver 2720MDP's input lag was tied with my Samsung S27A850D for around 18-20ms of input lag. I went back and checked and I had previously only done the input lag testing on my Samsung vs CRT with the SMT Tool 1.0 which gives values that are 6ms higher than what they should be.

Refer to this article for more information. The SMT Tool 2.0 is almost as accurate as an oscilloscope.

I did the input lag test again and they did indeed tie, however the actual input lag on the Samsung S27A850D is only 13.6ms when measured with an oscilloscope by PRAD.de which means that the CrossOver 2720MDP, which was was occasionally 1-2ms faster in my tests, has around 11-13.6ms of input lag which puts it ahead of the Achievea Shimian Multi PRAD.de tested (19ms), as well as most other high resolution IPS panels with scalers which typically have around 17-20 ms of input lag.


----------



## amazing235

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechaCthulhu*
> 
> Bummer. Would you consider mine as average or excessive? I am trying to decide if it is worth the hassle of returning, or taking it apart to fix the power light since there is only one dead pixel.
> Is this because it's LED instead of whatever Dell uses?
> Thanks. I am still sifting through all the threads.


I could definitely see yellowy on the bottom of the panel.
and Besides of the yellowness, You have an absolute right to return the monitor by power on light damage.
You are not paid for damaged monitor.
You paid for brand new monitor.

So, why are you hesitating to make a claim?


----------



## Hates

Received my CrossOver 27Q yesterday but it's semi-DOA. From cold it works fine for 2-3 minutes, then slowly the screen starts showing artifacts and going crazy







Eventually most of the screen is green and full of lines. I've tried it on two different computers. My main one running a GTX 570 and OCZ 750w PSU. Turning it off and on doesn't help. I need to let it sit, unplugged from the power for a couple of hours to get any clear picture from it for a minute or two.

I've attached some videos that show what happens:

You can see how it's fine then slowly starts to have problems.









Has anyone seen this problem before? I've gone through most of the pages but haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.

I'm going to try a different dual link DVI lead in case that fixes it but I'm not holding my breath.

*EDIT:* I've tried a new dual link DVI lead and it's the same problem


----------



## ElevenEleven

Probably depends on how much it bothers you. Some sellers won't accept it for return based on just the yellow tint, I would guess. I'd contact yours and ask if you find it excessively noticeable and irritating.


----------



## MechaCthulhu

I am going to be using it for CG so I will be staring at a white screen a lot. I just don't want to return it for something worse if this is normal.

I have been having a lot of trouble with getting it to play nice with my gts 250 in linux. I have my TV connected by HDMI on a separate x screen which a lot of DM seem to have trouble with now, using xfce. I have been using tips about editing the xorg.conf, the problem is now the TV is coming up as 640x480. I found this post about using a custom edid http://learnitwithme.com/?p=342

I contacted red-cap about returning, they seem to be taking their time responding. I had to send them more pictures since they could not access the dropbox link I sent them.


----------



## Asmodean

For anyone interested:

Going from 1920x1080 ->2560x1440

In Heaven, (no AA) for consistency I went from 109 -> 72fps

That's roughly around a 34% drop of fps from the GPU alone (Heaven being a GPU bench and all)


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> ordered my crossover on monday... i cant contain myself.


monitor came today. no dead or stuck pixels.

i am completely awe struck by this thing!


----------



## Asmodean

Btw: Did anyone else get a version with DCR(Dynamic Contrast Ratio) in the OSD? It's bloody useless, I mean I knew it wasn't supposed to be anything special, but all it does is dim the whole screen's backlight when you put something black in the center of the screen, and then turn the backlight up to 100% when you put something white in the center...far from dynamic, if you ask me.

If you kept this on 24/7 you'd have fits lol.

Don't get me wrong though, loving the new display. The quality is like going from dvd to blu-ray.


----------



## Descadent

is acessorieswhole worth the additional price? They are like 50 bucks higher but comes with their "warranty" ...whatever their warranty would do in korea for my monitor in the U.S. is unknown


----------



## Infinite-Dev

Hey, for anyone with the backlight/flicker issue, there may be a fix. I just picked up one of these monitors for super cheap, because the screen stays black. The power led changes from red to blue when connected to a video source, and the brightness buttons cause the led to flicker for a couple seconds before stopping.

I pulled the back side off, and found an issue on the LED Driver board. A mosfet on the board that was burned and some of the insulation on the board is curled back. I believe I found a replacement, and once it gets here, I will replace the mosfet.

This issue is most likely caused by the cheap/faulty power adapter, and could be the source of the yellowing forming on some screens after being on for a long time.

I have pictures of the board and issue, but they are on my phone and I'll have to upload them later.

Also, for the guy with the green screen issue, that sounds like the video processor has overheated, and separated from the motherboard. If there is someone in your area that does laptop video chip reflows, they should be able to repair the board, but it will most likely cost several hours labor.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> For anyone interested:
> Going from 1920x1080 ->2560x1440
> In Heaven, (no AA) for consistency I went from 109 -> 72fps
> That's roughly around a 34% drop of fps from the GPU alone (Heaven being a GPU bench and all)


Still very decent frame-rate and perfectly playable. Good to know a 680 can do it. I'm actually quite interested how would 680 handle surround with 3x 2560x1440 I would guess that still above 30 fps but its just pure speculation.

Unfortunately nVidia dont support 5 screens so I'm atm walled into AMD garden for now. Got my screens before these awesome value Koreans came around so still at 1920x1080 per screen but hey I'm saving up and when funds allow then I would like to get couple of these 27'' as well. Lets say three .. just for the sake of comparison







Would have to get separate card for these three tho. And as 680 is pretty good .. well see well see .. I'll need the displays first.


----------



## MechaCthulhu

Warning: I would recommend not buying from red-cap. Their listings state they test their monitors and have a warranty, but they sent me a display that was damaged before shipment. This is their response:

"1. about the bezel, sorry for that , the manufacturer , Crossover, is a Small and medium enterprise , so the exterior condition of some monitors might be not good comparing to Big company (apple , samsung ) we'd like to apologize for that behalf of the manuafacturer. but it is slight problem and we hope you understand for that."


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechaCthulhu*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this yellowing is normal for IPS?
> 
> Here is the damaged light:


It seems way too excessive. This is mine, not a crossover but it's the same panel really.


Return it imo.


----------



## bittauren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> It seems way too excessive. This is mine, not a crossover but it's the same panel really.
> 
> Return it imo.


You can try to return it. I don't think any sellers specify the amount of yellowing that constitutes a replacement.

I had that problem and I Bigclothcraft was excellent and rectified the issue. Mine was a bit worse than yours and BCC offered a replacement (he pays for return) or a $100USD refund. As if wasn't a big problem unless it's on an almost white page I just sold it to my friend and BCC offered me $110USD off a new one. This time he said he will check for any imperfections at all. Took him about a week longer to check and was sent out last night. Should arrive tomorrow.

See if you can get it replaced, most sellers are nice.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite-Dev*
> 
> Hey, for anyone with the backlight/flicker issue, there may be a fix. I just picked up one of these monitors for super cheap, because the screen stays black. The power led changes from red to blue when connected to a video source, and the brightness buttons cause the led to flicker for a couple seconds before stopping.
> I pulled the back side off, and found an issue on the LED Driver board. A mosfet on the board that was burned and some of the insulation on the board is curled back. I believe I found a replacement, and once it gets here, I will replace the mosfet.
> *This issue is most likely caused by the cheap/faulty power adapter, and could be the source of the yellowing forming on some screens after being on for a long time.*
> I have pictures of the board and issue, but they are on my phone and I'll have to upload them later.
> Also, for the guy with the green screen issue, that sounds like the video processor has overheated, and separated from the motherboard. If there is someone in your area that does laptop video chip reflows, they should be able to repair the board, but it will most likely cost several hours labor.


If this were true, brand new panels wouldn't be coming with a fair amount of yellow tint right out of the box. It would imply that they have been in use for a while before getting packaged and shipped, but many are sent straight from factory warehouses or only opened to test proper operation / number of bad pixels. Perhaps it can contribute to the _worsening_ of the tint over time, but something else contributes to the initial amount of tint.


----------



## Infinite-Dev

I was reading through the thread, and someone had said they smelled it, and there was a yellow spot forming in one side of the screen. This is the yellowing I was referring to, not the overall yellow tint out of the box.


----------



## MenacingTuba

My Video Review is Up


----------



## MechaCthulhu

Thanks for the input. It has been several days of emailing back and forth with red-cap but it sounds like they are going to let me return it, still waiting for them to send me details on how, I keep asking.


----------



## asdfasdf1234

After reading several weeks (for sure more than a month), I've ordered the Crossover 27Q LED-P from Accessorieswhole (ebay).
Luckily I've got only one pixel defect. Its defect is weird. Usually, it's a dead pixel. But it's a bright red stuck pixel if the background is white. It is in the mid, but on the top of the screen. So it's still acceptable.

I've ordered from Accessorieswhole because he guarants that there are only 3 defective pixels. No matter which type of defective pixel. He's also the only one who's selling A+ Crossover monitors. Have a look at his auctions with pixel perfect options. He have photos from A+ labeled parcels of ALL Crossover models.

Most of all other sellers just refund you 10$ per pixel defect. But probably you would get a full refund if you tell them claim via PayPal. With Accessorieswhole you surely would get a 100% Pixel Perfect monitor. Otherwise he would refund you it immediately.

I DIDN'T ordered my Crossover with Pixel Perfect due the fact that the chance of a flawless monitor is still high and because 3 defective pixels should be still acceptable. And 100$ more for Pixel Perfect was just a little bit too much for me. 50$, okay. But no 100$.

I hope this helps some people here









by the way: These lazy fed-ex couriers are lazy. If you google it, you'll notice that it's known that they just throw the memo in your mailbox to inform you that they "unfortunately" missed you. In my case, it was just lazyness by the courier. I was not at home, but two other family members were at home for sure. So, if you're planning to order (with urgency) from oversea and if it's possible, you may better choose any other courier instead of Fed-Ex.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechaCthulhu*
> 
> Warning: I would recommend not buying from red-cap. Their listings state they test their monitors and have a warranty, but they sent me a display that was damaged before shipment. This is their response:
> "1. about the bezel, sorry for that , the manufacturer , Crossover, is a Small and medium enterprise , so the exterior condition of some monitors might be not good comparing to Big company (apple , samsung ) we'd like to apologize for that behalf of the manuafacturer. but it is slight problem and we hope you understand for that."


wow that really sucks, id return it asap, and thats weird me and three other people i know ordered from red-cap with perfect panels arriving in mint condition, we all ordered in the same month.. hope all goes well for you!


----------



## asdfasdf1234

:-/ i've notice some strong backlight bleeding now. Left side. Both corners...
Is the warranty still legit if I loose the screws a little bit? I've read some posts here where they've stated that it can fix the backlight bleeding.


----------



## amazing235

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechaCthulhu*
> 
> Warning: I would recommend not buying from red-cap. Their listings state they test their monitors and have a warranty, but they sent me a display that was damaged before shipment. This is their response:
> "1. about the bezel, sorry for that , the manufacturer , Crossover, is a Small and medium enterprise , so the exterior condition of some monitors might be not good comparing to Big company (apple , samsung ) we'd like to apologize for that behalf of the manuafacturer. but it is slight problem and we hope you understand for that."


I can't believe that red-cap is tossing their issue on the manufactuerer.
Shame on them!

CrossOver monitor frame is metal material and other monitors mostly take their frame as plastic or some similar sort of it.
Before red-cap make their excuses for CrossOver manufactuerer, they should apologize for what they've shipped to you.
How dare it to say "SLIGHT PROBLEM" on this?
and what? "hope you UNDERSTAND for that" ?

How could you just understand to receive crooked frame monitor?

If they really think the monitor does not have good frame, they should've pack it undestroyable.

What is 1 year warranty stand for?
That's another question across on my mind.

Very irresponsible seller. not good.


----------



## superduperandy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> I can't believe that red-cap is tossing their issue on the manufactuerer.
> Shame on them!
> CrossOver monitor frame is metal material and other monitors mostly take their frame as plastic or some similar sort of it.
> Before red-cap make their excuses for CrossOver manufactuerer, they should apologize for what they've shipped to you.
> How dare it to say "SLIGHT PROBLEM" on this?
> and what? "hope you UNDERSTAND for that" ?
> How could you just understand to receive crooked frame monitor?
> If they really think the monitor does not have good frame, they should've pack it undestroyable.
> What is 1 year warranty stand for?
> That's another question across on my mind.
> Very irresponsible seller. not good.


I'm just too glad that I did not purchase my monitor from red-cap.

Thank you for sharing information on the forum.
I was luckly purchase my monitor from AW about 2 weeks ago.

Mine wasn't in a mint condition.
There's a dent on the corner of the monitor and it wasn't worse as yours.

I immediately took a photo and sent it to nancy, AW CS manager.
Monitor includes some decent scarfs and kind thank you note stick on the monitor screen. lol
So, I contacted on her email and received friendly response within not even an hour.

She, AW, apologized for its horrible (It's her word) delievery and dent on the monitor that cause so much upsetness.
Yeap. Sure. I was upset to receive brand new monitor with dent.
She exactly knew how I felt.
She offered three options for me since I purchased pixel perfect monitor, which are
1. return for replacement.
2. return for full refund.
3. partial compensation for its inconvenience.

I'm the person who gets easily annoyed by small issues, that reason I purchased pixel perfect monitor from AW and sure it didn't have any single dottish on it.
Slight of backlight bleed which I could not notice so much, evenly distributed coloration and no yellowness except the DENT!!

I did not want her to refund for it nor compensate for it.
So, I choose option 1.
Since I live in USA, I had to send it to their warehouse in LA on my charge,
But, after I sent her the return shipping bill and tracking number for it,
she instantly made refund on my Paypal account.
Basically, I did not spent single penny for returning it.
I was and I am so impressed by their fast and kind customer service.

Though, the process to get back my replacement took a while.
I am not so patient person who can wait for long, I contacted her many times and she never get tired of me to reply back.

Yesterday, I received the replacement and YES, this is what I ordered and exactly what I expected to receive.

Sorry to hear that you have a problem with the seller and I hope my experience with AW may help you out.
Because of what AW have done for me sincerely, I became a huge supporter for them by myself.
I already recommended my relatives, collegues and friends for AW.
They deserve to get some good credit for what they've doing and hopefully they will continuously do.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superduperandy*
> 
> They deserve to get some good credit for what they've doing and hopefully they will continuously do.


Don't get me wrong, but this is your first post here, and you praising AW. Quite possibly it's all legit but somehow I am sceptical.

This is not to say that AW is bad or anything, just the circumstances surrounding this make it look like a PR attempt.

Also, amazing235 user seems to be a bit suspicious to me - there's been a couple of posts which you could classify as "thrashing" for other sellers and praise for AW. He is also seems to be quite new to the forums.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> Hey,
> I noticed that BCC, Green-sum, red-cap and dream-seller are not a top rated seller on ebay anymore.
> They all have very bad reputation on their feedback.
> I bought mine from AW about a month ago and I still communicating with them.
> Not because my monitor has defect, but I just keep asking questions to them and small chitchat. lol
> As they provide great customer services.
> What I see on the overclock.net is
> " I received my monitor. flawless. great condition. no dead pixels. and blah blah blah- "
> But, what about after your usage and service?
> 
> All of the seller promised to provide 1 year warranty.
> So far, no one maintained their monitor till 1 year and no feedback of what so ever.
> Perhaps, it is time to be aware of their service provided?


from here

as well as post on this page:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> I can't believe that red-cap is tossing their issue on the manufactuerer.
> Shame on them!
> 
> CrossOver monitor frame is metal material and other monitors mostly take their frame as plastic or some similar sort of it.
> Before red-cap make their excuses for CrossOver manufactuerer, they should apologize for what they've shipped to you.
> How dare it to say "SLIGHT PROBLEM" on this?
> and what? "hope you UNDERSTAND for that" ?
> 
> How could you just understand to receive crooked frame monitor?
> 
> If they really think the monitor does not have good frame, they should've pack it undestroyable.
> 
> What is 1 year warranty stand for?
> That's another question across on my mind.
> 
> Very irresponsible seller. not good.


Sorry for excessive quotation, this is purely to preserve the original text shall it get edited by posters.


----------



## Descadent

pr attempt or not. they have less negative feedback about monitors than all other sellers.


----------



## amazing235

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, but this is your first post here, and you praising AW. Quite possibly it's all legit but somehow I am sceptical.
> This is not to say that AW is bad or anything, just the circumstances surrounding this make it look like a PR attempt.
> Also, amazing235 user seems to be a bit suspicious to me - there's been a couple of posts which you could classify as "thrashing" for other sellers and praise for AW. He is also seems to be quite new to the forums.
> from here
> as well as post on this page:
> Sorry for excessive quotation, this is purely to preserve the original text shall it get edited by posters.


You definitely got me wrong.
I am just saying the fact that I know of.
I only could tell things based on what I experienced.
That's what we all do in here. Don't we?
Unless, you purchase moitors from every sellers for it.

I think you are also suspicious to me as well to poke me specifically and nailing me as some kina PR writer.lol
If I were, I would be more professional to make critics and sarcastic post on regular basis.
I wasn't "Praising" in anyway.
I shared what I expereienced and no one replied/shared back for their experiences with other sellers.

And Duh....
If Myself and the person who posted me later on, superduperandy, If we were both working for AW, why would we post it at same time in a row?


----------



## Asmodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Don't get me wrong, but this is your first post here, and you praising AW. Quite possibly it's all legit but somehow I am sceptical.
> This is not to say that AW is bad or anything, just the circumstances surrounding this make it look like a PR attempt.
> Also, amazing235 user seems to be a bit suspicious to me - there's been a couple of posts which you could classify as "thrashing" for other sellers and praise for AW. He is also seems to be quite new to the forums.
> from here
> as well as post on this page:
> Sorry for excessive quotation, this is purely to preserve the original text shall it get edited by posters.


I can confirm what he/she's saying. AW is a pleasure to deal with. Got mine from Korea->Ireland in like 4 days. Ordered a Perfect Pixel version, and that's what I received. Not a defective pixel to be found, and not much backlight bleed either. Very polite communication aswell.

This is only 3 days after I've received it, so hopefully, i'm not speaking too soon, but so far the display is 100% as described.

PS. Their Perfect Pixel versions of the 2720MDP's seem to be correctly calibrated out of the box, which is also nice, for those who don't own a colorimeter


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> If Myself and the person who posted me later on, superduperandy, If we were both working for AW, why would we post it at same time in a row?


Good question


----------



## jpdaballa

I purchased a Crossover LED-P from AW. it was a perfect pixel monitor. Now i dont know how to say this, but HOLY $#IT!!!!. This is the most amazing monitor I have ever seen! Only complaint is that it is very bright out of the box and needs some adjustment. For anyone who is iffy about the swap- let me tell you! This was by far the best upgrade i have made in the last 3-4 years. I do recommend buying from AW because of their customer service and warranty that they pay for shipping back in case there are any problems.

Ill upload my pictures soon, but just to be fair the pictures do not do it justice.


----------



## jpdaballa

IMG_7207.JPG 3446k .JPG file


IMG_7209.JPG 3272k .JPG file


IMG_7210.JPG 2908k .JPG file


IMG_7211.JPG 2639k .JPG file


IMG_7212.JPG 3003k .JPG file


IMG_7213.JPG 2485k .JPG file


IMG_7214.JPG 2566k .JPG file


IMG_7215.JPG 3216k .JPG file


IMG_7216.JPG 2822k .JPG file


IMG_7217.JPG 2377k .JPG file


IMG_7218.JPG 2326k .JPG file


Pictures are above, but they do not do the monitor justice. I bought the monitor less than 3 days ago and I already received it! Major props to Accessories Whole.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_7207.JPG 3446k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7209.JPG 3272k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7210.JPG 2908k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7211.JPG 2639k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7212.JPG 3003k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7213.JPG 2485k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7214.JPG 2566k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7215.JPG 3216k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7216.JPG 2822k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7217.JPG 2377k .JPG file
> 
> 
> IMG_7218.JPG 2326k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures are above, but they do not do the monitor justice. I bought the monitor less than 3 days ago and I already received it! Major props to Accessories Whole.


embed the pics so we dont have to save the file to view


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> and warranty that they pay for shipping back in case there are any problems.


That's not what their listings say - for instance this one and this one both say "30 days money back, buyer pays return shipping"


----------



## jpdaballa

When i messaged AW this is what he/she said.

"we provide 1 year warranty,
it covers, within 30 days from your purchase, if monitor has defect/default, it may refund/replaced be on us.
After the 30 days from your purchase, since you live in USA, you may pay shipping charge to our warehouse in LA.
From the warehouse in LA to Korea, Korea to your house will be charged on us."

You still technically pay shipping, but much less compared to other competitiors. Also their customer service and satisfaction is much better than others ive spoken too.


----------



## Sazexa

I'm still in the debate for myself on getting one of these... With the new Nixeus Vue (a US based company) making monitors using the same panel, with more inputs and an "ad board"/working OSD, for just $430, I may have to take that deal. Then again, the new Dell U27 models are supposedly only marked at $640. I might consider that, too, if they fix the AG coating.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> embed the pics so we dont have to save the file to view


for love of this monitor yes embed


----------



## hiddenname1101

I just got my monitor from red-cap. 1 dead pixel in the upper right hand corner, but it is barely noticeable. This monitor is heavy and feels like quality, although I did not have a bad experience with red-cap based on previous comments I would not buy from him again.


----------



## Benzman

i just got y crossover yesteerdy and it came with correct brick and perfect pixel monitors yoohoo,its a welltronics, from welltro.com brick that is 110-240v which is what you guys should be using,i use alot of stuff from europe and these are the correct bricks to be used to power up these imported devices as i belive china and europ power electronics are the same, judging by the prungs and volts used good luck


----------



## Asmodean

I'm considering replacing the Welltronics AC adapter (power brick) that came with mine, because it gets super bloody hot and makes me feel like it's going to kill my display lol.

If anyone could recommend a good quality one, and maybe a nice vesa stand with height, and swivel adjustment also?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> I'm considering replacing the Welltronics AC adapter (power brick) that came with mine, because it gets super bloody hot and makes me feel like it's going to kill my display lol.
> If anyone could recommend a good quality one, and maybe a nice vesa stand with height, and swivel adjustment also?


turn your brightness down abit and it wont get so hot, i turned mine down abit and now it runs perfect!


----------



## Asmodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> turn your brightness down abit and it wont get so hot, i turned mine down abit and now it runs perfect!


I've the Brightness @ 50 mate. Not prepared to go any lower than that tbh, screen gets too dull. Like it nice a clear for gaming. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## jpdaballa

Pictures are above, and this time they are embedded.
Again: pictures do not do it justice, especially seeing how some of my wallpaper was 1920x1080 or 1600's x1050's

After 24 hours of usage, no problems at all. AW is a fine retailer i recommend buying from them if you can spend the cash. No back light bleeding dead/stuck pixels etc.

Only thing is if you let the monitor go into idle and wake it up it will sometimes glitch out but can be fixed by turning it off and on again so no biggy.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures are above, and this time they are embedded.
> Again: pictures do not do it justice, especially seeing how some of my wallpaper was 1920x1080 or 1600's x1050's
> After 24 hours of usage, no problems at all. AW is a fine retailer i recommend buying from them if you can spend the cash. No back light bleeding dead/stuck pixels etc.
> Only thing is if you let the monitor go into idle and wake it up it will sometimes glitch out but can be fixed by turning it off and on again so no biggy.


sold. lol


----------



## TheExile

I'm looking at buying a Crossover 27Q or Crossover 27Q LED-P. I've seen AW mentioned many times in this thread is he the most reliable seller? Also has anyone had one of these for more than a few months without any issues? Thanks

Edit: Is green-sum just as good?


----------



## wkstar

BCC sent both to me in TWO days


----------



## AMC

I am looking getting the multi input version of this monitor with display port and the better stand. Any recommended sellers with this monitor?


----------



## TSXmike

bought mine through bigclothcraft.

they treated me well and were incredibly prompt.


----------



## jpdaballa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> I am looking getting the multi input version of this monitor with display port and the better stand. Any recommended sellers with this monitor?


Accessories Whole.


----------



## prodatype

just an update after having my 2 crossovers for a couple of days. I just noticed from playing with the "BL" buttons (back light?) on both that one of my screens has a wider range of brightness than the other. One of my crossovers can get about 10~20% darker and 5% brighter than the other one. I'm not too torn up about it though. Still great monitors so far.


----------



## Sazexa

Can someone link me to Accessory Wholesale's page? I can't seem to find the seller.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Can someone link me to Accessory Wholesale's page? I can't seem to find the seller.


Dude, seriously??? This is the first link google returns: http://myworld.ebay.com.au/accessorieswhole/


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Dude, seriously??? This is the first link google returns: http://myworld.ebay.com.au/accessorieswhole/


Google results are location sensitive. He might be located somewhere where its not the first result that turns up. For example, there my results for googling it:


Edit: To clarify - this is google.com I'm using, not the national site but it still filters the results based on my location. And I do actually search for "Acessories Whole" not for wholesale.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> Edit: To clarify - this is google.com I'm using, not the national site but it still filters the results based on my location. And I do actually search for "Acessories Whole" not for wholesale.


Sure. To clarify - I was searching for *accessorieswhole* as a whole word.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Dude, seriously??? This is the first link google returns: http://myworld.ebay.com.au/accessorieswhole/


I was searching on E-Bay, looking through the listed monitors. Chill out.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> Google results are location sensitive. He might be located somewhere where its not the first result that turns up. For example, there my results for googling it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: To clarify - this is google.com I'm using, not the national site but it still filters the results based on my location. And I do actually search for "Acessories Whole" not for wholesale.


I don't know what's up, but google gives me WAY difference search results than most people. It's really odd.

EDIT: Even after doing a google search of "E-bay accessories wholesale" I don't get the page. The one you linked is for Australia, ArtemS. Is AW only selling to Aus.?


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Sure. To clarify - I was searching for *accessorieswhole* as a whole word.


Hehe. Well that offers a lot better results at my location as well. The ebay page is a second link for me.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> Hehe. Well that offers a lot better results at my location as well. The ebay page is a second link for me.


Now this brought me results. I did not know it was one word.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Now this brought me results. I did not know it was one word.


I apologise for assuming you did







Srsly.


----------



## Sazexa

Does anyone know of people who have had to pay import duties for AW's monitors in the US?

I'm on quite a limited budget, and wouldn't really be able to afford the importation fees if there were any.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Does anyone know of people who have had to pay import duties for AW's monitors in the US?
> I'm on quite a limited budget, and wouldn't really be able to afford the importation fees if there were any.


If they list it as gift = No... plus S. Korea has free trade with USA = no import duties


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> If they list it as gift = No... plus S. Korea has free trade with USA = no import duties


Well, hopefully. Buy this monitor is like right at the edge of my spending limit. So, it would REALLY suck if I had to wait longer to get it.

Anyone have any say on the monitors they received from her? I'd rather have a monitor with just one or two stuck/dead pixels than horrendous tint or backlight bleed.f


----------



## jpdaballa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, hopefully. Buy this monitor is like right at the edge of my spending limit. So, it would REALLY suck if I had to wait longer to get it.
> Anyone have any say on the monitors they received from her? I'd rather have a monitor with just one or two stuck/dead pixels than horrendous tint or backlight bleed.f


i purchased a perfect pixel led p from her on wensday night and received it friday morning the same week. look at my previous post a few pages back for pictures, but so some it up no back-light bleed perfect in almost every way. Amazing customer service. I recommend her over others like dream and green etc.. but thats my take. GL with whatever you choose.


----------



## jpdaballa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> If they list it as gift = No... plus S. Korea has free trade with USA = no import duties


Also i forgot to mention i payed no fees besides what AW charged me


----------



## virtualmadden

Bought mine at the end of March from DCSamsungMall and it's still going strong. No dead/stuck pixels and the only issue has been occasionally it doesn't go to sleep. The screen goes black, but the back light stays on. Always solved by either turning it on/off or waking it up and letting sleep again. Mounted it to the wall as I have a small desk. If it ever dies, I refuse to go back to just 1080P.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> Also i forgot to mention i payed no fees besides what AW charged me


From amazon, eh? Maybe I'll buy from there if it's cheaper/same price instead. I feel like it would be easier to sort any issues out over Amazon, if any were to be present.


----------



## elmarsvolta

I signed up right now to say that I have been watching this thread for a while now, and thank you all for helping me make up my mind and order one of these gorgeous monitors. I am using it right now and it came flawless. I ordered from red cap, last Wednesday and it arrived today, Monday. I have not been able to find a single dead pixel and it has virtually no light bleeding. It came with a welltronics power adapter that is staying cool to the touch. I know red cap has taken a hit here lately, and there is that one guy all over AWs balls, but I hope people take things more on a case by case basis. Just because someone got a great product or a bad one doesn't mean you will also. It seems to be all about luck, if i order two more though, I will probably go with green sum, just to spread the love.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elmarsvolta*
> 
> I signed up right now to say that I have been watching this thread for a while now, and thank you all for helping me make up my mind and order one of these gorgeous monitors. I am using it right now and it came flawless. I ordered from red cap, last Wednesday and it arrived today, Monday. I have not been able to find a single dead pixel and it has virtually no light bleeding. It came with a welltronics power adapter that is staying cool to the touch. I know red cap has taken a hit here lately, and there is that one guy all over AWs balls, but I hope people take things more on a case by case basis. Just because someone got a great product or a bad one doesn't mean you will also. It seems to be all about luck, if i order two more though, I will probably go with green sum, just to spread the love.


Welcome to the OCN. Nice monitor you have there







Dont forget to put your hardware into the sig as sooner or later when you ask something about stuff someone will ask for it.


----------



## Hydros

Welcome to OCN, elmarsvolta!

I am sure you will enjoy it here. This place is absolutely great!


----------



## ezraevo

Greeting Folks...

I would like to find out from you there using the CrossOver 27Q whether you are hearing some sort of high pitch sound or noise (from the back of the display unit, close to the center) when viewing a screen which has pure white color and black wordings as majority ex. Wikipedia

Or if you do not mind, please see this link (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspirin), and scroll down the screen. My 27Q makes these irritating 'whines' at different tones from top to bottom of the page.


----------



## Descadent

Well after debating for months about surround/eyefinity setups using 1080p or 1200p monitors or 1440p monitors, I decided to go ahead and just buy one 1440p monitor. I just purchased the Led-P.

Just stupid to pass up on a 1440p monitor. We'll see how this one arrives. I would love to do 3 crossovers but damn the horsepower needed to run it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezraevo*
> 
> Greeting Folks...
> I would like to find out from you there using the CrossOver 27Q whether you are hearing some sort of high pitch sound or noise (from the back of the display unit, close to the center) when viewing a screen which has pure white color and black wordings as majority ex. Wikipedia
> Or if you do not mind, please see this link (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspirin), and scroll down the screen. My 27Q makes these irritating 'whines' at different tones from top to bottom of the page.


Both, the two ShiMians I have and a 27Q I briefly owned have a faint high-pitched sound coming from around the power button location, but the 27Q had it much more noticeable. Yours sounds like it's coming from a capacitor elsewhere, toward the middle of the panel and might be a different issue entirely. I remember reading about a capacitor that was buzzy, or something like that, and it was remedied by coating it in epoxy - not sure if this is related to your issue, but I'd search the original Korean monitor thread for "epoxy".

P.S.: look here.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> I am looking getting the multi input version of this monitor with display port and the better stand. Any recommended sellers with this monitor?


I got mine from red-cap and it arrived in perfect condition, with no stuck pixels. His shipping took longer than 2 days though because (he claimed) that the original batch they had were bad. IMO you can't go wrong with him, bigcloth, or accessorieswhole. They all have the revised firmware (I know because I contacted them individually), so quality shouldn't be an issue. Hope this helps.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elite2048*
> 
> They all have the revised firmware (I know because I contacted them individually), so quality shouldn't be an issue.


Huh? What does quality have to do with firmware... Stuck pixels, light bleed, and some other issues are due to firmware now?


----------



## Asmodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Huh? What does quality have to do with firmware... Stuck pixels, light bleed, and some other issues are due to firmware now?


You speak of hardware issues. Firmware is for software issues obv. Such as horrible Contrast ratio, colour correction etc. My monitor went from having the worst IQ, to having the best IQ (according to reviews) out of all the K-IPS after a firmware revision.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Huh? What does quality have to do with firmware... Stuck pixels, light bleed, and some other issues are due to firmware now?


Sorry if I mislead you. Buying these monitors from Korea is undoubtedly a gamble. Some people have reported hardware glitches, and damage from shipping has occurred in a few cases as well. I was trying to address the firmware issue that plagued the multi-input version when it first came out.

Here are links to reviews if you don't know what I'm talking about. It's in Korean so I recommend using Google Translate.

http://www.playwares.com/xe/22822289 (old version)
http://www.playwares.com/xe/22912327 (new version)


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elite2048*
> 
> Sorry if I mislead you. Buying these monitors from Korea is undoubtedly a gamble. Some people have reported hardware glitches, and damage from shipping has occurred in a few cases as well. I was trying to address the firmware issue that plagued the multi-input version when it first came out.
> Here are links to reviews if you don't know what I'm talking about. It's in Korean so I recommend using Google Translate.
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/22822289 (old version)
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/22912327 (new version)


Are the Crossovers they are selling now with that bezel and stand, or are they selling the more traditional look?

I'll ask AW before buying from her.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Are the Crossovers they are selling now with that bezel and stand, or are they selling the more traditional look?
> I'll ask AW before buying from her.


27q is that stand, 27q led-p is the other


----------



## ElevenEleven

I see now - you were talking about the versions with the OSD - my bad.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> 27q is that stand, 27q led-p is the other


So the 27Q is the "regular" look, and LED-P's are the new ones? Or the other way around?

I'm still not entirely sure if I want to get this monitor or another.


----------



## Queesy

Both monitors are the same except in terms of "newer".

The only difference is the one with the P can be turned into portrait via the stand and adjustable height feature. In terms of the screen they are the same.

if youre talking about different models then I dont know. But usually a P among the same model stands for portrait.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> So the 27Q is the "regular" look, and LED-P's are the new ones? Or the other way around?
> I'm still not entirely sure if I want to get this monitor or another.


only difference is the stand, just look at the listing on ebay. led-p clearly has tilt, pivot, swivel stand, qhile just regulard 27q has just normal base stand. That is the only difference


----------



## asdfasdf1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezraevo*
> 
> Greeting Folks...
> I would like to find out from you there using the CrossOver 27Q whether you are hearing some sort of high pitch sound or noise (from the back of the display unit, close to the center) when viewing a screen which has pure white color and black wordings as majority ex. Wikipedia
> Or if you do not mind, please see this link (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspirin), and scroll down the screen. My 27Q makes these irritating 'whines' at different tones from top to bottom of the page.


I've also noticed this high pitch sound. Well, it's not really high pitch, but it is definitively noticable. In some cases as you have described it.
From which seller did you order? I probably will complain about this defect too.

I also have some minor backlight bleeding in the upper left corner... :-/

btw: mine is a 27Q LED-P


----------



## protzman

Correct me if im wrong, but seems kinda dumb that this monitor is so much and doesn't have an HDMI cable!
Wouldn't an VGA to hdmi look better than a vga to dvi?


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Correct me if im wrong, but seems kinda dumb that this monitor is so much and doesn't have an HDMI cable!
> Wouldn't an VGA to hdmi look better than a vga to dvi?


The gold model has an HDMI but some say that it interferes with the quality. I know hdmi is easier to use, but dvi is essentially the same. There is is no picture crisp or gain in between hdmi and dvi. The only difference is that hdmi carries sound.

They both are capable of outputting a very high res as long as you have drivers supporting it.

Also, the plus with the non-hdmi version is that it weighs considerably less. I think 8 pounds or so. Thats cool for me since I like light stuff.

These korean panels are known to be bare-bone monitors, meaning they are just the screen and that's all you'll pretty much get with it. ie: no calibration.


----------



## protzman

Thats right, thanks for jogging my memory bud, knew there was something about hdmi (the sound).
I Am deff looking into these monitors, all people that buy from ebay its 100% legit right?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Thats right, thanks for jogging my memory bud, knew there was something about hdmi (the sound).
> I Am deff looking into these monitors, all people that buy from ebay its 100% legit right?


the only ebay seller considered ebay top seller is accessorieswhole, who are more expensive than everyone but provide 1 year warranty and everyone has had great success with them. There are others that people have used that work out just fine if you read through thread but their feedback varies on ebay with individual experiences


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Thats right, thanks for jogging my memory bud, knew there was something about hdmi (the sound).
> I Am deff looking into these monitors, all people that buy from ebay its 100% legit right?


Well not 100% but there are a few good ones. I have not bought one yet but from users people have recommend green-sum and dream-seller. They both have models at $350 (led-P) with 1 dollar in price variance. Both are rated very high.

The other person I can recommend is AccessoriesWhole who sells it for 399.99 + adapter, but guarantees 2 stuck pixel or less. He is also the highest reviewed ebayer with close to 10,000 ratings.

I'd personally go with dream-seller since he is the cheapest (by 1 dollar compared to green-sum) but he also includes a free 110v~220v adapter. Good if you live in the USA. I do not think green-sum includes the adapter.

Also, in dream-seller's info he says he checks all the panels he sells before he ships them which gives a little piece of mind I guess.


----------



## protzman

"Guarantees 2 or less stuck pixels" What the heck i wouldn't want any stuck pixels if im paying 400 for a monitor!
I was just looking at the crossover website and they have White ones omg those things are so dang sexy!


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> "Guarantees 2 or less stuck pixels" What the heck i wouldn't want any stuck pixels if im paying 400 for a monitor!
> I was just looking at the crossover website and they have White ones omg those things are so dang sexy!


The only way to get a 0 stuck pixel is go with dell or apple or samsung. But those cost 900+ dollars. There is a reason these monitors are 300-400 range.

Furthermore, 2 stuck pixel is very hard to see considering how many pixels are already on this panel. There are software out there that tries to fix stuck pixel and what not but its not for certain.


----------



## protzman

elaborate on stuck pixel then maybe? because i have a 23 inch LED monitor from asus and its flawless?
Why would it be hard for them to make it too? (sorry just trying to understand)


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> elaborate on stuck pixel then maybe? because i have a 23 inch LED monitor from asus and its flawless?
> Why would it be hard for them to make it too? (sorry just trying to understand)


please research on the korean monitors. often front page of every club explains this... these are panels that apple and dell use. they are all LG panels, but are considering A- panels and are the rejects from apple and dell. This is reason why they are so cheap, but it may or MAY NOT have dead pixels and at this resolution seeing a dead pixel is crazy. Often they can be rubbed out as well. If you want a perfect monitor go with apple or dell, but you still don't have 100% chance of perfect. They have issues too.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> elaborate on stuck pixel then maybe? because i have a 23 inch LED monitor from asus and its flawless?
> Why would it be hard for them to make it too? (sorry just trying to understand)


Well first lets "elaborate on a stuck pixel".

A stuck pixel is a pixel or pixels on a liquid crystal display (LCD) that are not performing as expected. Of those, a dead pixel never shows light, and a stuck pixel always shows light (typically red, blue or green), when the device is active.

Your asus monitor is probably 1920×1080 pixels so *2,073,600* pixels in total.

With these panels the resolution is much higher at 2560×1440 so *3,686,400* pixels in total.

So say you buy an Overcross 270Q LED-P panel, you have a chance of getting a panel that has 1-5 stuck pixel out of 3,686,400 pixels. You think you'd notice that easily? Its hard but if you stare at your monitor and blind yourself you could probably find your stuck pixels, however from regular viewing distance its almost indistinguishable.

Now, lets say your a perfectionist and want a perfect zero stuck pixel panel. Go with a dell or apple or samsung for 900+ dollars. They use the top of the line panel which isnt that far from what are in these korean models. And on the off chance you get a stuck pixel with a dell, apple, or samsung you are under a very solid warranty.

These korean models do offer some sort of warranty, but shipping it back to Korea or the sorts is generally not worth it as shipping is expensive.

Some users in this thread say it is kind of like a lottery with these panels. There is a chance you could get a Crossover with zero stuck pixels. A lot of people say they actually have. (But I doubt it since if that was true then it probably would be in some dell and not a crossover, 1 pixel out of a sea of 3 million is like a needle in a hay stack).


----------



## protzman

Cool man







your the people we need on this forum + rep.
now if i can bother you one more time: Backlight bleeding? (is it often in these panels?)


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Cool man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> your the people we need on this forum + rep.
> now if i can bother you one more time: Backlight bleeding? (is it often in these panels?)


I think its just hit or miss on that (depending on if it's a good batch or not). I think some of the top ebay sellers will exchange it if the back light bleeding is very excessive. But to answer your question, I don't think its something to be worried about when buying these panels.

Thanks for the rep.


----------



## Sazexa

Would like to point out:

AW sells "A", not "A-" panels. She allows no more than 3 dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## Kuad

Fedex almost got me for something like $20 on import for my first monitor - but when I called up, mentioned the KFTA, 0 import duties on this item blah blah, they offered to take it right off. The 2nd and 3rd monitors arrived without even that hiccup.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> Fedex almost got me for something like $20 on import for my first monitor - but when I called up, mentioned the KFTA, 0 import duties on this item blah blah, they offered to take it right off. The 2nd and 3rd monitors arrived without even that hiccup.


how good are your sli 670s running 7680x1440? and you can't just come in here without pics


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> Fedex almost got me for something like $20 on import for my first monitor - but when I called up, mentioned the KFTA, 0 import duties on this item blah blah, they offered to take it right off. The 2nd and 3rd monitors arrived without even that hiccup.


Which country or state do you live in? I live in CA and plan on purchasing in the coming months. Any idea if CA gets taxed? Just want to make sure.


----------



## protzman

same here i live in VA and i think i might pick up a couple of these over the next few months!
I dont wanna have to pay any customs fees or mumbo jumbo like that!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> same here i live in VA and i think i might pick up a couple of these over the next few months!
> I dont wanna have to pay any customs fees or mumbo jumbo like that!


you won't and shouldn't, we have a free trade agreement with korea


----------



## abibx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hates*
> 
> Posted this in the Crossover 27Q thread but it got sort of buried. Hoped maybe someone else might have some input.
> Received my CrossOver 27Q yesterday but it's semi-DOA. From cold it works fine for 2-3 minutes, then slowly the screen starts showing artifacts and going crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually most of the screen is green and full of lines. I've tried it on two different computers. My main one running a GTX 570 and OCZ 750w PSU. Turning it off and on doesn't help. I need to let it sit, unplugged from the power for a couple of hours to get any clear picture from it for a minute or two.
> I've attached some videos that show what happens:
> You can see how it's fine then slowly starts to have problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen this problem before? I've gone through most of the pages but haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.
> I've tried a new dual link DVI lead and it's the same problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A new PSU is being shipped over but thought maybe there's something else I could try/do.


^^
same with me I just received CROSSOVER 27" 27Q LED-P PIVOT DVI-D S-IP it today ..
everything is checked except for the adapter








I bought from the red cap

if anyone can help us ..???


----------



## protzman

can anyone confirm if this, the white one has like edge to edge glass, because it looks to me that some are that way but some are not. obviously i see the bezel but to me some look like the glass face even continues to ontop of the bezel. I could be completely wrong on all of this but im really interested in the white one, and just these in general. Im just really sketched out by this whole some pixels are probably dead or stuck thing







because for me a college student this is alot of money for a freakin monitor!


----------



## mickmania

Just got this message back from green-sum

"Thank you for your order. recently we test the monitor for series back light bleeding, it may take 1~2 days.
And it is holiday here, if you could wait a bit more, we will update the information. Thank You "


----------



## protzman

thats pretty sweet that they test it







im reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally leaning towards the white one it would look dope with my upcoming build!


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Well first lets "elaborate on a stuck pixel".
> A stuck pixel is a pixel or pixels on a liquid crystal display (LCD) that are not performing as expected. Of those, a dead pixel never shows light, and a stuck pixel always shows light (typically red, blue or green), when the device is active.
> Your asus monitor is probably 1920×1080 pixels so *2,073,600* pixels in total.
> With these panels the resolution is much higher at 2560×1440 so *3,686,400* pixels in total.
> So say you buy an Overcross 270Q LED-P panel, you have a chance of getting a panel that has 1-5 stuck pixel out of 3,686,400 pixels. You think you'd notice that easily? Its hard but if you stare at your monitor and blind yourself you could probably find your stuck pixels, however from regular viewing distance its almost indistinguishable.
> Now, lets say your a perfectionist and want a perfect zero stuck pixel panel. Go with a dell or apple or samsung for 900+ dollars. They use the top of the line panel which isnt that far from what are in these korean models. And on the off chance you get a stuck pixel with a dell, apple, or samsung you are under a very solid warranty.
> These korean models do offer some sort of warranty, but shipping it back to Korea or the sorts is generally not worth it as shipping is expensive.
> Some users in this thread say it is kind of like a lottery with these panels. There is a chance you could get a Crossover with zero stuck pixels. A lot of people say they actually have. (But I doubt it since if that was true then it probably would be in some dell and not a crossover, 1 pixel out of a sea of 3 million is like a needle in a hay stack).


It's perfectly possible, because of the way the system works. A lot of these panels are actually A+. What happens is in the factory line they test a small percentage of the panels. If that test fails, they bin the entire batch - hence why a number of us have been getting perfect panels.


----------



## protzman

has anyone recently gotten a white one? i hate how all the pics on the crossover website are like animated








I wanna see one in person!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> has anyone recently gotten a white one? i hate how all the pics on the crossover website are like animated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna see one in person!


there's some pics of white ones in the thread somewhere


----------



## CaptainChaos

I have quick question, and one that's probably been answered, but I see everyone loves the stand on the pivot version. I was wondering how the stand on the non Pivot compares to the Shimian and Catleap?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainChaos*
> 
> I have quick question, and one that's probably been answered, but I see everyone loves the stand on the pivot version. I was wondering how the stand on the non Pivot compares to the Shimian and Catleap?


The Crossover stand is still better. More stable, more attractive. Less likely to cause tilt


----------



## CaptainChaos

Thanks! Now I have decision to make...


----------



## protzman

* Crossover Crossover Crossover Crossover Crossover *


----------



## Queesy

You guys know how people in tech always say "Mind as well wait a couple months for the next GPU or CPU to come out."

Does that apply to Crossovers? lol

I ask because I really don't mind waiting for the "next vers." per se.

I read on a forum that LG is coming out with a better IPS screen so Crossover might pick it up? I hope they do. Also, if that happens we might see price cuts across the board on these current models. I'm not sure though because this is a Korean/ E-bay market (very different market compared to GPU).

Anyways, I plan to buy my screen in late Sept. or in October so that gives me some time to research on that. Its fun to think about too. The possibilities...


----------



## Descadent

GOT my Crossover! It's the LED-P version. ZERO dead pixels and I ran the dead pixel color screen tests from google! I did *NOT* buy the pixel perfect monitor. Some minor light bleed but I mean MINOR. I purchased mine from accessorieswhole.

Get this crazyness about shipping: I bought it Monday Night and it shipped about 6am est Tuesday 8/15 and it arrived here in Charlotte NC this morning at 4am and was delievered at 3 p.m. That is some CRAZY speed shipping for international shipping!

So far cross my fingers. No damage to monitor. Stand is excellent, and the ALL metal design just blows monitors and tvs away. This is the Korean panel to GET simply for the metal design and stand. This is worth it over the catleap for sure.

Of course, I came with pictures









How I received it.





Without the bubble wrap



UHHH it came with bandannas?



Box Open



A personalized letter from accessorieswhole saying thank you and telling me the bandannas were a gift for choosing them. Nice gesture.







Everything in the box including the adapter



Now on to some shots of the screen actually on.



Side by side compared to my 2008 LG W2600h-p 1200p Tn monitor







Let me know what yall think and so far Crossover definitely recommended and accessorieswhole blew me away with emails and getting it shipped out. I mean from fricking Korea to NC in day and half our time?! Insane!


----------



## CaptainChaos

You just made me regret my decision and reassured me all at the same time









I ended up going with a Shimian because I really wanted to order from Accessorieswhole. Sadly I didn't have the funds to step up to a Crossover from them so I went with the Shimian.


----------



## Queesy

@Descadent

Wow nice pixs. The boxing looks like a new design too. I dont recall them having blue text. Anyways, how much did you purchase this model from accesorieswhole?

I was thinking of going with dream-seller for 350 but dam accesorieswhole seems like they give legit panels.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> GOT my Crossover! It's the LED-P version. ZERO dead pixels and I ran the dead pixel color screen tests from google! I did *NOT* buy the pixel perfect monitor. Some minor light bleed but I mean MINOR. I purchased mine from accessorieswhole.
> Get this crazyness about shipping: I bought it Monday Night and it shipped about 6am est Tuesday 8/15 and it arrived here in Charlotte NC this morning at 4am and was delievered at 3 p.m. That is some CRAZY speed shipping for international shipping!
> So far cross my fingers. No damage to monitor. Stand is excellent, and the ALL metal design just blows monitors and tvs away. This is the Korean panel to GET simply for the metal design and stand. This is worth it over the catleap for sure.
> Of course, I came with pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How I received it.
> 
> 
> Without the bubble wrap
> 
> UHHH it came with bandannas?
> 
> Box Open
> 
> A personalized letter from accessorieswhole saying thank you and telling me the bandannas were a gift for choosing them. Nice gesture.
> 
> 
> 
> Everything in the box including the adapter
> 
> Now on to some shots of the screen actually on.
> 
> Side by side compared to my 2008 LG W2600h-p 1200p Tn monitor
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what yall think and so far Crossover definitely recommended and accessorieswhole blew me away with emails and getting it shipped out. I mean from fricking Korea to NC in day and half our time?! Insane!


Excellent! Made my mind. Crossover is a go


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> @Descadent
> Wow nice pixs. The boxing looks like a new design too. I dont recall them having blue text. Anyways, how much did you purchase this model from accesorieswhole?
> I was thinking of going with dream-seller for 350 but dam accesorieswhole seems like they give legit panels.


399.99, decided on her because of the excellent communication before buying through emailing, feedback, and ebay top seller.


----------



## vloeibaarglas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> GOT my Crossover! It's the LED-P version. ZERO dead pixels and I ran the dead pixel color screen tests from google! I did *NOT* buy the pixel perfect monitor. Some minor light bleed but I mean MINOR. I purchased mine from accessorieswhole.
> Get this crazyness about shipping: I bought it Monday Night and it shipped about 6am est Tuesday 8/15 and it arrived here in Charlotte NC this morning at 4am and was delievered at 3 p.m. That is some CRAZY speed shipping for international shipping!
> So far cross my fingers. No damage to monitor. Stand is excellent, and the ALL metal design just blows monitors and tvs away. This is the Korean panel to GET simply for the metal design and stand. This is worth it over the catleap for sure.
> Of course, I came with pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How I received it.
> 
> 
> snip...


I got a LED non-P version in today from the same seller for 377 (instead of 399. This seller's price was $50 higher for both models compared other sellers). Very professional throughout the buying process. Sends you CEO's stock email after it ships, gets here in 2 days international shipping, letter in box thanking you. AC adapter (110-230V labeled) is made in Korea, instead of China. One of my best eBay experiences ever.

I also got 3x gangwear/bandana/scarf/monitor wipe. However, I wasn't able to get the leopard print pattern.

I agree, the metal stand/backing just exudes quality.

Great seller; if I buy another one (highly likely since it is making my Viewsonic 24" TN look like UTTER SHIAT), I will buy from this seller. I think I got 3-5 dead/stuck pixels, but I'm not really bothered that much. I see some light bleed also. I'm gonna run a pixel unstucker on tonight and email them tomorrow if I still have 3+ dead pixels.

For those who still haven't gotten one and is super fearful of dead pixels like me, a few dead pixels doesn't matter. I can't even see them unless I specifically change my screen to a pure color and stare at it. 3 dead pixels would amount to 3 in 3.6 million or 0.0000813802% dead pixel.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> GOT my Crossover! It's the LED-P version. ZERO dead pixels and I ran the dead pixel color screen tests from google! I did *NOT* buy the pixel perfect monitor. Some minor light bleed but I mean MINOR. I purchased mine from accessorieswhole.
> Get this crazyness about shipping: I bought it Monday Night and it shipped about 6am est Tuesday 8/15 and it arrived here in Charlotte NC this morning at 4am and was delievered at 3 p.m. That is some CRAZY speed shipping for international shipping!
> So far cross my fingers. No damage to monitor. Stand is excellent, and the ALL metal design just blows monitors and tvs away. This is the Korean panel to GET simply for the metal design and stand. This is worth it over the catleap for sure.
> Of course, I came with pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How I received it.
> 
> 
> Without the bubble wrap
> 
> UHHH it came with bandannas?
> 
> Box Open
> 
> A personalized letter from accessorieswhole saying thank you and telling me the bandannas were a gift for choosing them. Nice gesture.
> 
> 
> 
> Everything in the box including the adapter
> 
> Now on to some shots of the screen actually on.
> 
> Side by side compared to my 2008 LG W2600h-p 1200p Tn monitor
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what yall think and so far Crossover definitely recommended and accessorieswhole blew me away with emails and getting it shipped out. I mean from fricking Korea to NC in day and half our time?! Insane!


Congrats man! Looks frickin' awesome!


----------



## Descadent

What did you do to get it for $377? She said she would take 5% off if i didn't go through ebay, but I needed the feedback because I don't buy much on ebay.

But interested to know how you got it for $377 because I want two more!


----------



## CaptainChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainChaos*
> 
> You just made me regret my decision and reassured me all at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up going with a Shimian because I really wanted to order from Accessorieswhole. Sadly I didn't have the funds to step up to a Crossover from them so I went with the Shimian.


A little update. I ended up getting a call from the Accessorieswhole lady, turns out that they didn't have any more Shimians available so I paid the difference and went with a Crossover non pivot for 377. Overall, I'm pretty happy, she forced me into getting a Crossover









Impressed that she took the time to call and didn't just send a message.


----------



## Althulas

Nice result there CC.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> What did you do to get it for $377? She said she would take 5% off if i didn't go through ebay, but I needed the feedback because I don't buy much on ebay.
> But interested to know how you got it for $377 because I want two more!


How do you get 5% off ? Btw, the non-P models are $377 for wholeaccessories. She lowered it.


----------



## Skoobs

just found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-30-Inch-Crossover-3020MDP-Pivot-DP-HDMI-2560x1600-S-IPS-Monitor-/130741074860?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e70c67bac#ht_16519wt_1163

didnt even know there was a 30 inch crossover.

not really a bargain though, like the 27 inchers are.


----------



## AP514

I was real close to buy'n from Accessorieswhole but went with Green-sum..also a great rated seller. the main reason i was going to go w/ Accessorieswhole was the fact they check out the panel before shipping. In the end I figured the diff from 3 to 5 dead pixels was small. I would save the $50 buck diff.by going w/ GREEN-SUM and buy the Squaretrade warranty(3yr) with the money saved.I will post in a few days when panel arrives.

**On a side Note** what Video cards are you guys use'n to run a single panel ??im leaning toward a GXT680 but which one ?? Im looking to play MECHWARRIOR ONLINE with this badboy....

AP514


----------



## Hates

Sadly my new PSU arrived today and it didn't solve the problem


----------



## protzman

wow..... who did u buy from?


----------



## Queesy

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hates*
> 
> Sadly my new PSU arrived today and it didn't solve the problem






Yeah tell us who you bought from so I can avoid that seller. thanks.


----------



## Hates

[REDACTED]


----------



## protzman

prob fedex that did it then.
though the top pic does look kinda cool


----------



## Hates

It works for about 5 minutes perfectly though, then the image gets worse and worse. So I doubt it broke in transit. Not something loose inside either as wiggling and moving the monitor makes no difference to how it looks.


----------



## Queesy

PSHHH

Accesorrieswhole says she checks all her panels before shipping too.


----------



## tridium

Hey guys, purchased this 120v to 220v converter from eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150847781331?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_4621wt_1163

Works Great with 2 crossover 27q. Power adapters run super cool compared to 120v.


----------



## abibx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hates*
> 
> It works for about 5 minutes perfectly though, then the image gets worse and worse. So I doubt it broke in transit. Not something loose inside either as wiggling and moving the monitor makes no difference to how it looks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hates*
> 
> Hate to say it, but it came from AccessoriesWhole


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hates*
> 
> Sadly my new PSU arrived today and it didn't solve the problem


hmm...
The best and the only way we have contact each seller to refund or exchange ..
is like a gamble to get a good monitor .. lol

i hope you see this case red cap


----------



## protzman

Yeah if they take care of this for you, will have made up my mind and buy it. if not, it turns me back into sketchy mode.


----------



## Hates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Accesorrieswhole says she checks all her panels before shipping too.


It is possible that the problem I have would have been missed. It only happens once the monitor is fully warmed up (~5 mins). If it was just plugged into a running computer and inspected for dead pixels then it would probably pass fine


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> Yeah if they take care of this for you, will have made up my mind and buy it. if not, it turns me back into sketchy mode.


LOL your comment made me laugh xD.

Anyways, guess what?! I just purchased an ASUS GTX 660 TI DCU II









I hope it destroys this panel.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> LOL your comment made me laugh xD.
> Anyways, guess what?! I just purchased an ASUS GTX 660 TI DCU II
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it destroys this panel.


Hahahdon't laugh







if they fix his problem then that's whats up, otherwise this whole Korean scheme is more and more sketchy to me









But yeah im in the same boat i bought a 680 for my build im building and i cannot wait to push it to the limit on a beautiful screen like this!


----------



## abibx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hates*
> 
> Even if she checks them, it is possible that the problem I have would have been missed. It only happens once the monitor is fully warmed up (~5 mins). If it was just plugged into a running computer and inspected for dead pixels then it would probably pass fine


different from my problem .. received from the first (2 days ago) either monitor conditions in a state of cold or warm, even hot ..
screen displayed is always green, like shrek was in the shower


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> LOL your comment made me laugh xD.
> Anyways, guess what?! I just purchased an ASUS GTX 660 TI DCU II
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it destroys this panel.


not with the 192 bit memory interface, it will be fine but about 10-20 fps difference from 670 according to benchmarks released today

also i have no doubt accessorieswhole will refund and ship you another. mine was definitely checked I could tell the by how foam was rewrappped up around the monitor.


----------



## Humafold

Mine does the sketchy screen flickering now when I turn it on for the first time after computer was off. Once I turn it off and turn it back on it seems to diappear. It looks like this:






I'll just wait for it to die and buy a Dell.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> not with the 192 bit memory interface, it will be fine but about 10-20 fps difference from 670 according to benchmarks released today
> also i have no doubt accessorieswhole will refund and ship you another. mine was definitely checked I could tell the by how foam was rewrappped up around the monitor.


But it's a hundred dollars cheaper. What do you think? Should I get the 670 instead for this panel? I really want to do it justice.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> But it's a hundred dollars cheaper. What do you think? Should I get the 670 instead for this panel? I really want to do it justice.


when evga 670 ftw is 399.99 and at our resolution I think I would. however i'm not saying 660ti is bad, but you can't crank it fully open ultra max bf3 and not dip into 20s and low 30s at 1440p(i can't even do it on my 570 classified, in which 660ti is more of a replacement for than the 560ti). If you can live without max sure, but 670 ftw is just to good, or the new gigabyte 4gb 670 or similar.

not sure tbh maybe someone else can chime in.


----------



## wakame

i couldn't decide between green-sum or ta-planet. Both of them include the adapter around the same price. Do they check before sending them out? I've seen a post about square trade. How can I buy the warranty?


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wakame*
> 
> i couldn't decide between green-sum or ta-planet. Both of them include the adapter around the same price. Do they before sending them out?


They all include adapters and check before sending out the monitors. The deciding factors are usually price and user feedback.


----------



## wakame

How do u get square trade warranty?

Thinking about getting a good dvi-d cable from mono price. Would 24gauge work?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> when evga 670 ftw is 399.99 and at our resolution I think I would. however i'm not saying 660ti is bad, but you can't crank it fully open ultra max bf3 and not dip into 20s and low 30s at 1440p(i can't even do it on my 570 classified, in which 660ti is more of a replacement for than the 560ti). If you can live without max sure, but 670 ftw is just to good, or the new gigabyte 4gb 670 or similar.
> not sure tbh maybe someone else can chime in.


He Descadent.
I know you posted in my other thread about monitors. I've got a quick question for you.

I've currently got two 6950's. If I get a screen that is 2560 x 1440 (or maybe even x 1600[and whether I choose the Crossover or the Dell]), do you think it would be worth selling my 6950's and getting two 660's? Or do you think two 6950's will be fine?


----------



## wakame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> He Descadent.
> I know you posted in my other thread about monitors. I've got a quick question for you.
> I've currently got two 6950's. If I get a screen that is 2560 x 1440 (or maybe even x 1600[and whether I choose the Crossover or the Dell]), do you think it would be worth selling my 6950's and getting two 660's? Or do you think two 6950's will be fine?


7970 is on sale for 368 at TD with 4 games.


----------



## derfer

Anyone get the white 27q? I want it but it's a huge price premium.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wakame*
> 
> 7970 is on sale for 368 at TD with 4 games.


tempting to buy two and two more crossovers............. but must wait........ till...... next gen............ bah!


----------



## jdmax

Hello guys, I just received my crossover 27q led-p from csamsungmallm , I used for 25 minutes then the screen turned off,the power light is blinking and has like a purple color but the screen has no signal...







,I dont know if the problem is the power brick or the monitor . any ideas?


----------



## Broo0d

yay! backlit flickering issue is gone. (27Q led-p)

i didn't do anything.

just used the monitor and it stops flickering after a while

not sure how long it is, maybe a month or so


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Broo0d*
> 
> yay! backlit flickering issue is gone. (27Q led-p)
> i didn't do anything.
> just used the monitor and it stops flickering after a while
> not sure how long it is, maybe a month or so


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdmax*
> 
> Hello guys, I just received my crossover 27q led-p from csamsungmallm , I used for 25 minutes then the screen turned off,the power light is blinking and has like a purple color but the screen has no signal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,I dont know if the problem is the power brick or the monitor . any ideas?


Oh God. I was considering these monitors over a catleap because of the stand and overall quality is much better, but this scares the hell out of me.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General123*
> 
> Oh God. I was considering these monitors over a catleap because of the stand and overall quality is much better, but this scares the hell out of me.


theres more than plenty of us that don't have issues. catleap has just as much reported issues too if not more.


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> theres more than plenty of us that don't have issues. catleap has just as much reported issues too if not more.


Yeah the poll is overwhelming great







. I am 99% certain I am getting one of these, but is tempered glass worth the premium or just get a regular one for $327? I am planning on buying it from dream-seller because of his dead pixel policy.


----------



## Jethric

Hey guys, I am still waiting to purchase my new graphics card so I have not yet had a chance to try and connect my monitor to a working desktop computer.

Upon arrival, I plugged the power cable into the monitor and got neither a red or blue light from the LED in the bottom right corner of my "pixel perfect" 27q LED-P when I pressed the power button.

When I was rearranging my desk earlier today, I tried plugging in the monitor again just for kicks thinking that it must only turn on when it has received some sort of DVI signal, but to my surprise (and with only the power cable connected), the blue light came on and then went to the red LED (meaning it did not have a DVI signal I'm guessing). Thinking that all of my worries were over, I plugged in the DVI cable and set it up through the back of my desk in anticipation for my new desktop computer. When I went to test it again a few hours ago, after only plugging in the DVI cable into the DVI port on the monitor, the LED once again did not come on. I have tried troubleshooting all possible configurations (dvi cable unplugged, power brick cable, checking to make sure the green LED was on on the Welltronics brick). I'm really stumped as to why this happened and now seriously considering contacting accessorieswhole about the issue.


----------



## protzman

yeah 'F' this... im out.

DIP!


----------



## Descadent

yesterday you were all like. HELL yea crossover and today your out? lol

*sits back and stares at his crossover*


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> yesterday you were all like. HELL yea crossover and today your out? lol
> *sits back and stares at his crossover*


Dont worry I am still down, buying it on the 25th.


----------



## protzman

Hey, thats because yesterday i hadn;t hear these three horror stories about f'd up monitors. I bet it costs 100 bucks to ship back to korea.

though "Sits back and stares at monitor" had me rolling.
what i was thinking about hahahaha


----------



## Descadent

accessorieswhole covers shipping with reimbursing you if you have issues. relax bud you won't find any better in any other korean panel lol


----------



## CaptainChaos

Most of the top sellers cover return shipping for such errors. Which is one reason they test them before hand. They don't want to send duds and have to cover return shipping. They would rather try and send a good monitor as best as they can. Some issues just don't show until later.


----------



## Gallien

Go with BCC, they are about as good as you can ask for in my book, They do 1 year warranty and pays for return shipping etc etc... Glad I bought from him.


----------



## bytesmith

Just wanted to add one more data point to this ridiculously long thread because it wasn't 100% clear to me whether the Crossover would work with my Macbook Pro 13" 2009 with its wimpy 9400m integrated graphics card until I received the monitor and plugged it in. Moral of the story is it works perfectly using the Apple Mini-Display Port -> Dual Link DVI cable with the USB port plugged directly into the MacBook so I'm thrilled despite having to purchase a $100 cable. All in all, the bill came to $522 CAD, with $351 going to green-sum, $48 going to the Canadian customs and $122 going to Apple's bottom line (!!!).

I have no dead pixels and couldn't be happier with how it looks and performs on my somewhat antiquated system. Well worth the upgrade from my 22" Samsung TFT. The only things I would do differently if I could do it again would be to possible skip the pivot option, as it's not very easy to flip to it so I doubt I'll ever use it, and to request that the eBay seller marks the package as a gift or a low value item to avoid excessive duty levies.

I also want to plug my Hengedocks dock for any Macbook owners out there. It has worked perfectly since I bought it two years ago, completely bypassing all the cable hell associated with plugging in my laptop to my keyboard/mouse/(awesome new) monititor/midi controllers/audio interfaces/receiver etc.

Hope this helps someone.


----------



## asdfasdf1234

Hey guys

It's me again. The *high pitch sound* is still there and still noticable.
It really depends on the image what the monitor displays. Most noticable cases:
- reading a wikipedia article (white background, (almost) text only)
- reading / writing on a document while displaying two pages (the more text displaying the loud the high pitch sound)

Sometimes it was also noticable when there were darker backgrounds.

It would be interesting who also have noticed this problem.
It's known that older people can't hear some high pitch sounds anymore. That (maybe) means the reason why there are not that many people complaining about high pitch sound is that the most members are all over 30


----------



## C70T5

I bought a new 2720MDP Crossover in May. it has failed on me. Basically a few days ago the monitor started flickering a bit here and there and then finally it switched off. I think the backlight has broken but when I turn the monitor on the blue LED power light has gone purple instead.

Also if I press any of the menu buttons nothing appears on the screen. I think for the money its better to stick with a proper brand that has a proper warranty. Having said that my other Crossover 27QLED is perfect.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Hey guys
> 
> It's me again. The high pitch sound is still there and still noticable.
> It really depends on the image what the monitor displays. Most noticable cases:
> - reading a wikipedia article (white background, (almost) text only)
> - reading / writing on a document while displaying two pages (the more text displaying the loud the high pitch sound)
> 
> Sometimes it was also noticable when there were darker backgrounds.
> 
> It would be interesting who also have noticed this problem.
> It's known that older people can't hear some high pitch sounds anymore. That (maybe) means the reason why there are not that many people complaining about high pitch sound is that the most members are all over 30


Sure it's not the power brick? I've had power bricks scream before. Take a video so we all know what to look for with ours please if you can.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I bought a new 2720MDP Crossover in May. it has failed on me. Basically a few days ago the monitor started flickering a bit here and there and then finally it switched off. I think the backlight has broken but when I turn the monitor on the blue LED power light has gone purple instead.
> Also if I press any of the menu buttons nothing appears on the screen. I think for the money its better to stick with a proper brand that has a proper warranty. Having said that my other Crossover 27QLED is perfect.


if you bought it from seller that has warranty hit them up! Thats why I choose a seller that did just incase. Was worth more to me than a seller who was 50-75 cheaper and didn't.


----------



## AP514

Who is BCC ??? never could find him on EBAY................

As far as the warranty most all of the sellers list a 1 yr warranty..and if you pay the $40-$50 bucks more for the Squaretrade Warranty (ebay) you get 3yrs.

I hear Accessorieswhole is one of the best sellers along w/ Green-sum (whom I went with) Redcap..and a few more listed here...

And to the guy that is OUT ! ! ! Well, All I can say is you want your cake and want to eat it too ???
1) you want a half price panel ( half of what you would pay for it here in the states anyway )
2) you want it 100% perfect..

So if your that worried about the investment pay $50 more for Accessorieswhole( she opens every panel and checks them before shipping them out ) and another $50 more for the Squaretrade warranty ( 3yr )

You will be covered....

some times you got to take a leap of faith....
I just did

AP514


----------



## ElevenEleven

BCC = BigClothCraft.


----------



## C70T5

I bought mine from AccessoriesWhole. So far they seem to be willing to repair the monitor and pay towards the shipping cost. I'm just waiting on instructions on what to do. I would actually prefer a 27Q rather than a repair because I prefer the design of them but I don't think they'll agree to that.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> That's normal - it needs an input. It will stay blue with a signal from a GPU and red at all other times (plugged in).


My LED is not even red when I plug it in, just nothing


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> My LED is not even red when I plug it in, just nothing


Oh... In that case either the power brick or something in the panel is dead. Since there's a green light on your brick, it's likely okay... I'd discuss options with your seller (sending your monitor for an exchange or troubleshooting to their content and then exchanging). You could make a video plugging the brick into the monitor, showing the green light, and then powering on your monitor and the LED on it not turning on + monitor not turning on.


----------



## punceh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> My LED is not even red when I plug it in, just nothing


i got something similar about 2 weeks ago when i got mine(led-p). i connected the power cable before putting the monitor in its place because its quite a hard to reach spot, when moving the monitor the power connector moved a little bit so it wasnt making contact properly. maybe its that?


----------



## Ftruck

So after using the machine that my LED-P is on more often lately I have noticed that the bottom half of the screen has some pretty obvious yellow patches through it. Pretty disappointing, was a great monitor besides the yellowing. The yellow will eat at me though so I'm contemplating replacing it with a ZR30W instead of just taking a gamble on another Korean monitor.

Edit: now noticing green specks flickering on black backgrounds. Definitely scrapping. On the plus side I've found a store here with the LG W3000H for $1100 AUD. That's a pretty good deal considering the price of comparable 30" IPS monitors.


----------



## Descadent

that sucks, hit up your seller if it hasn't been long.

anyone bought from accessorieswhole and still bought the square trade warranty?

I've still been considering purchasing the square trade warranty, but have we come to a decision that they do cover koreans? My research on these forums some people say yes and some say no.

It's worth 50 now for them to reimburse me $400 two years from now if it dies.(especially if i buy two more for surround/eyefinity)

thanks


----------



## Queesy

Is Radeon or Nvidia the way to go with these panels?

I've been researching on graphics card these past few days and many benchmarks out there show Radeon beating out Nvidia cards at 2560x1600 resolution.

Primarily, I'm talking about the 7970 vs. the GTX 670. The 680 is out of my budget.

If I go with the 7970 I'm probably going to go with visontek's reference design. If I go with GTX I am probably going with either the EVGA FTW model or the ASUS DCU2 TOP model.

Using this monitor. Btw, the 7970 goes on sale for $370 quite often while the FTW and ASUS DCU2 TOP models are usually at $400 (I've never seen a sale for these).

What does more justice at 2560x1440p?


----------



## Scannall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Is Radeon or Nvidia the way to go with these panels?
> I've been researching on graphics card these past few days and many benchmarks out there show Radeon beating out Nvidia cards at 2560x1600 resolution.
> Primarily, I'm talking about the 7970 vs. the GTX 670. The 680 is out of my budget.
> If I go with the 7970 I'm probably going to go with visontek's reference design. If I go with GTX I am probably going with either the EVGA FTW model or the ASUS DCU2 TOP model.
> Using this monitor. Btw, the 7970 goes on sale for $370 quite often while the FTW and ASUS DCU2 TOP models are usually at $400 (I've never seen a sale for these).
> What does more justice at 2560x1440p?


Either one is a great choice. Pick the one you can get the best deal on, best warranty etc.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scannall*
> 
> Either one is a great choice. Pick the one you can get the best deal on, best warranty etc.


Haha alright.

I'll probably go with the Asus GTX 670 DCU2 TOP model whenever I can.

I've been fancying that card for a while now.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Someone tried to run three of those monitors is Eyefinity 7680x1440 ???

I have 7970s and I experience problems.


----------



## Polarity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Haha alright.
> I'll probably go with the Asus GTX 670 DCU2 TOP model whenever I can.
> I've been fancying that card for a while now.


7970 is probably better becuz u have more VRAM and the bus is larger why not just get a 7950 and overclock it ? save a lot of money

sapphire 950Mhz edition card looks really nice


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Which version of this monitor has the edge to edge glass like the Achieva Shimian IPSB? Or do any of them have that?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Someone tried to run three of those monitors is Eyefinity 7680x1440 ???
> I have 7970s and I experience problems.


nope, but sure as hell want to do 7680x1440

what problems are you having?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> nope, but sure as hell want to do 7680x1440
> what problems are you having?


I am having Hard Lock and freeze with only hard reset to solve this. Eyefinity+ Quadfire does it.

But all cards individually running the 3 x CrossOvers is fine, it is very strange


----------



## Descadent

Wierd!

I wanna be like you lol. Just thought of dropping 1600 for 2 more monitors and two new videos cards is killing me. but i wanna do it so bad.


----------



## C70T5

AccessoriesWhole are being utterly useless with a warranty repair. They claimed they would help out but have since dissapeared. What are my options if they decide not to respond anymore?


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> 7970 is probably better becuz u have more VRAM and the bus is larger why not just get a 7950 and overclock it ? save a lot of money
> sapphire 950Mhz edition card looks really nice


No a 670 or 680 does just fine even at 1600p.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> AccessoriesWhole are being utterly useless with a warranty repair. They claimed they would help out but have since dissapeared. What are my options if they decide not to respond anymore?


for anyone that goes omg not getting crossover, accessorieswhole has been great and this guy sounds like this guy. http://120hz.net/showthread.php?531-Ick-AccessoriesWhole-is-handling-my-return-very-badly./page3 who made this thread.

but apologies if your not. just fyi to others.

more than enough have had success with accessorieswhole


----------



## Queesy

Do you whether a 7970 vs a 670 does better at 2560x1440p?

A lot of benchmarks I'm looking at point at Radeon being superior but I compared the Asus 670 DCU2 TOP with a reference design 7970 and both scored a 45 fps in Heaven at 2560x1600.

In that sense, I would rather go with the Asus since I do like that card overall better. However, I'm open to amd if they will fetch me more graphics performance. Also, the 7970 is cheaper than the 670. I can get the 7970 for $370. (Slickdeals.net, they have 7970 deals every 2-3 weeks for $370 w/ a few games)


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> for anyone that goes omg not getting crossover, accessorieswhole has been great and this guy sounds like this guy. http://120hz.net/showthread.php?531-Ick-AccessoriesWhole-is-handling-my-return-very-badly./page3 who made this thread.
> but apologies if your not. just fyi to others.
> more than enough have had success with accessorieswhole


I'd rather go with Green-Sum or Dream-seller since they sell it for 50 dollars less.


----------



## Scannall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Do you whether a 7970 vs a 670 does better at 2560x1440p?
> A lot of benchmarks I'm looking at point at Radeon being superior but I compared the Asus 670 DCU2 TOP with a reference design 7970 and both scored a 45 fps in Heaven at 2560x1600.
> In that sense, I would rather go with the Asus since I do like that card overall better. However, I'm open to amd if they will fetch me more graphics performance. Also, the 7970 is cheaper than the 670. I can get the 7970 for $370. (Slickdeals.net, they have 7970 deals every 2-3 weeks for $370 w/ a few games)


Either of them are excellent cards. Just buy whichever is the best deal when you are ready to buy.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> I'd rather go with Green-Sum or Dream-seller since they sell it for 50 dollars less.


it was worth $50 more to me to go with ebay top seller who has warranty and only sells A panels with less than 3 dead pixel policy, but to each his own.


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> it was worth $50 more to me to go with ebay top seller who has warranty and only sells A panels with less than 3 dead pixel policy, but to each his own.


Is BBC one of them? Still dont know who to buy from


----------



## Ftruck

Has anyone actually contacted accessorieswhole before about warranty outside of the first week or so? I knew what I was getting in to when I got one of these monitors, I figured if it works sweet I save $500 if It doesn't I'm out $500. Fair gamble. I got my monitor about a month a go and did a quick pixel test but didn't start really using it until about 2 weeks ago due to waiting for the rest of my build. Once I'd started using It I noticed some uniformity issues. If my panel was completely yellow tinted It'd be sweet I'd just calibrate the white temperature but the patches of yellow it has aren't really manageable. Since It's been a month I'm under the impression that I would have to cover shipping if I wanted to do anything about it. From Australia that's just not really worth it especially with the potential risks of damage in transport, getting another lame panel etc.

I'm not having a whinge, as I said I knew what I was getting into and I'm fine with buying a locally sourced HP or LG IPS monitor and just binning or keeping the crossover as a spare monitor as the time and money spent gambling on a replacement seems ill placed. I was just curious about whether anyone had run a warranty claim after the first month or so and how it went for them.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> From Australia that's just not really worth it especially with the potential risks of damage in transport, getting another lame panel etc.


Nice to see a fellow Aussie in the forums! I'm just wondering what was the quote you got to ship it back to Korea?

Also planning on buying from them, want to consider all the risks.

Thanks!


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Nice to see a fellow Aussie in the forums! I'm just wondering what was the quote you got to ship it back to Korea?
> Also planning on buying from them, want to consider all the risks.
> Thanks!


Just did a quick postal quote with auspost, Fedex and DHL.

Auspost - Cheapest was $178
Fedex - Cheapest was $353
DHL - Cheapest was $504.63

As I said, not worth returning. These are strictly disposable monitors. It was worth the gamble for me because It had the potential to tick all the boxes, they're IPS panels with good response time, little to no input lag and no AG coatings but I'm not sure if I'm willing to roll the dice on another one. The HP and LG 30" monitors are almost perfect -16:10, little to no input lag, good response times, It's just that god damn AG coating that ruins it since it will be in a dark room. I think I'd rather deal with AG coating than yellow splotches though.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> As I said, not worth returning. These are strictly disposable monitors.


Thanks for that. Now I'm not even sure I want to get one... Provided that pixel-perfect version of 2720MDP is ~$550, and by adding $150-$200 I could get myself either Dell U2711 (I know, anti-glare...) or Samsung S27A850 (or maybe something else - didn't really look into that market yet.)

Not too sure it's worth the gamble, plus all the time and hassle to spend chasing the seller/carries/whoever up...


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtemS*
> 
> Thanks for that. Now I'm not even sure I want to get one... Provided that pixel-perfect version of 2720MDP is ~$550, and by adding $150-$200 I could get myself either Dell U2711 (I know, anti-glare...) or Samsung S27A850 (or maybe something else - didn't really look into that market yet.)
> Not too sure it's worth the gamble, plus all the time and hassle to spend chasing the seller/carries/whoever up...


No worries buddy. I personally wouldn't go down the Dell or Samsung route. The scaler in them jacks the input lag way up. That's just me though, I have no need for the extra inputs on the Dells and Sammies, you might have a use for them though and the input lag vs extra inputs trade off might be worth it for you.

I'm looking at the HP ZR2740W for around $750 which at this point is looking like a better deal than another Crossover at $500, The LG W3000H for around $1100 and if I was just to say ahh F*%K it the HP ZR30W for around $1400. If you get a good Crossover they're great and you're laughing but if you don't you've got a crappy panel and only saved a few hundred bucks. I guess it comes down to how much of a gambler you are.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> The scaler in them jacks the input lag way up. That's just me though, I have no need for the extra inputs on the Dells and Sammies


It's kind of the only option for me (MBP with DisplayPort), so it's either an external DVI->DP converter or built-in ports, and to be honest I'd prefer the built-in one over the external converter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> I'm looking at the HP ZR2740W for around $750 which at this point is looking like a better deal than another Crossover at $500, The LG W3000H for around $1100 and if I was just to say ahh F*%K it the HP ZR30W for around $1400. If you get a good Crossover they're great and you're laughing but if you don't you've got a crappy panel and only saved a few hundred bucks. I guess it comes down to how much of a gambler you are.


Wow thanks for these references, will definitely check them out!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Personally, if I could get any monitor at this point it'd be the Samsung S27B970D. That thing is absolutely gorgeous but the price ($1k) is, alas, ridiculous...


----------



## MenacingTuba

The Samsung S27A850D has 14ms of input lag while the HP ZR27440w has 5ms since it lacks a scaler. This difference is minimal, only the most sensitive users will notice.

http://www.prad.de/new/monitore/test/2012/test-samsung-s27a850d-led-teil7.html#Bildaufbauzeit

http://www.prad.de/new/monitore/test/2012/test-hp-zr2740w-teil6.html#Reaktionsverhalten

The Samsung does not use an excessively grainy matte coating unlike the HP.


The Samsung series 8 PLS use the lightest matte coating (semi-glossy) while all matte 24-30" IPS use the graniest matte coating.

The 970D is not overpriced compared to the Dell and HP models since it has perfect out of the box colour accuracy (see TFT Centrals Review), something you can only achieve by spending 250$ on an i1 display pro or spyder 4 elite colorimeter. So add 250$+tax to any domestic display while also keeping in mind that you won't get as good results unless you buy a pricier NEC or Eizo model which use the same grainy matte coatings as the U2711 & ZR27440w.

Add 250$+tax to a CrossOver 2720MDP Pixel Perfect with the Pivot stand (650$) for a 900$-ish total. The 970D has gone on sale recently for 1000$ and it comes with a 90% screen uniformity guarantee. The Samsung 970D is a better deal since it's risk free & will have better out of the box colours than a calibrated CrossOver.

The Samsung PLS displays also have lower input lag than most of the mutli-input IPS panels. Prad measured 19ms of input lag on the Achieva multi and most other high res IPS panels with extra inputs+scalers.

Some one on [H]ard forum used the SMT Tool 2.0 (2nd most accurate tool next to using an oscilloscope which currently only PRAD.de does) to measure around 18ms on the Yamakasi Multi, and PRAD.de got a similar value with an oscilloscope on the 30" Yamakasi which has a scaler.

I have the CrossOver 2720MDP and it has the same input lag (measured with the SMT Tool 2.0) as my S27A850D, occasionally it was 1-2ms faster.





I bought my 2720MDP when they were first released on ebay and the Samsung 970D still isn't available in Canada, which is why I don't have one.


----------



## ronald

Hey Guys,

I am considering buying the 27Q pivot and I've been researching for a few weeks now on which seller / brand is the best. I came to the conclusion that the catleap will never come close to the stand that crossover provides for only an extra $50.

I have just read all the pages of this thread among a few others, and I had one question I didn't seem to have the answer for. Will the crossover 27Q LED-P be able to run smoothly on my nividia GTX260 ?
On ebay it lists that the recommended GPU memory be 1gb but the 260 only has about 890mb. The card does come loaded with dual link ports so i'm going to say it is compatible and it will work.

On a side note I love what you guys are doing here and I also have an account on the Australian overclock


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Doubt a GTX 260 will really be able to push 2560 x 1440 honestly....


----------



## ronald

Guess I'll have to upgrade my gfx card then. It does say it supports the res on the Nividia website.


----------



## Plex

Hey guys,

I bought a CrossOver 27Q LED-P from accessorieswholesale on Ebay. It was shipped a day or so ago but I got a strange tracking number, it's a few digits short for a FedEx tracking number, even though it says it's FedEx. Anyone have experience with this?

EDIT: Turns out that FedEx Express is a bit different than FedEx and only has 12 digits in tracking. Still hasn't shown up yet though, but I'll just assume it's still moving through the system.

Thanks!


----------



## eltocliousus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought a CrossOver 27Q LED-P from accessorieswholesale on Ebay. It was shipped a day or so ago but I got a strange tracking number, it's a few digits short for a FedEx tracking number, even though it says it's FedEx. Anyone have experience with this?
> EDIT: Turns out that FedEx Express is a bit different than FedEx and only has 12 digits in tracking. Still hasn't shown up yet though, but I'll just assume it's still moving through the system.
> Thanks!


Plex, let me know how it goes, I'm considering the same seller and monitor (Crossover over the catleap as it has 100x100 VESA), cheers!


----------



## MechaCthulhu

Just a quick update with my return experience with red-cap.

After a week emailing back a forth, last Tuesday they sent return instructions. I mailed it right away to someplace in California should have arrived Thursday, have not checked tracking yet.

I emailed that it was sent along with my choice for a refund, which was one of the options they gave. Now it is Monday have not heard a peep. It has been 13 days of trying to get this resolved.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought a CrossOver 27Q LED-P from accessorieswholesale on Ebay. It was shipped a day or so ago but I got a strange tracking number, it's a few digits short for a FedEx tracking number, even though it says it's FedEx. Anyone have experience with this?
> EDIT: Turns out that FedEx Express is a bit different than FedEx and only has 12 digits in tracking. Still hasn't shown up yet though, but I'll just assume it's still moving through the system.
> Thanks!


Try this link:

http://www.track-trace.com/


----------



## Royraiden

Has anyone done a comparison between a 1080P monitor using AA vs one of these monitors at full resolution without AA?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Royraiden*
> 
> Has anyone done a comparison between a 1080P monitor using AA vs one of this monitors at full resolution without AA?


\

I don't even run aa on 1440p. theres no need. unless you look hardcore for jaggies


----------



## eltocliousus

I'm so worried about getting a dud or one with dead/stuck pixels that bother me, realistically, what are the chances of me getting a DOA? And are stuck pixels genuinely not noticeable?


----------



## Royraiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> \
> I don't even run aa on 1440p. theres no need. unless you look hardcore for jaggies


I honestly hate the jaggies but if it looks pretty good at that resolution I wouldnt mind not using AA.Im considering buying one of these monitors if my GPU actually supports the resolution which Ithinkit does.Anyways if I actually get one I will get a GTX 680 pretty soon.I guess that would be enough to run most games at that resolution without the need of reducing some eye candy.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eltocliousus*
> 
> I'm so worried about getting a dud or one with dead/stuck pixels that bother me, realistically, what are the chances of me getting a DOA? And are stuck pixels genuinely not noticeable?


look at the poll above lol

but 1-3 pixels dead out of how many pixels are in 1440p resolution is soooooo tiny


----------



## CaptainChaos

Just got my 27q non pivot in a few hours ago. I'm in love, no dead or stuck pixels from what I can tell and my back lighting seems to be quite uniform.


----------



## eltocliousus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> look at the poll above lol
> but 1-3 pixels dead out of how many pixels are in 1440p resolution is soooooo tiny


I suppose, how does this monitor stack up against say, the dell 27" or the HP ones? They have matte coatings which I honestly prefer, but in terms of overall quality, I'm worried the colours will be off/tinted and I don't have OCD, but as with most people, little issues can really eat at my brain.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eltocliousus*
> 
> I suppose, how does this monitor stack up against say, the dell 27" or the HP ones? They have matte coatings which I honestly prefer, but in terms of overall quality, I'm worried the colours will be off/tinted and I don't have OCD, but as with most people, little issues can really eat at my brain.


best advice i can give is that there are 100+ comparisons in all the korean monitor club threads. I'll give you my two cents. $400 shipped for crossover led-p with zero dead pixels and no ridiculous light bleed, compared to hella expensive hp or dell, of course you assume risk but if buying hp or dell for 400-600$ more gives you comfort...go for it.

korean all the way for the price.


----------



## b0z0

I'm debating selling my BenQ XL2420T and picking up a Crossover. Would it be worth it? For FPS?







Anyone have pictures of the quality during gaming.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I'm debating selling my BenQ XL2420T and picking up a Crossover. Would it be worth it? For FPS?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have pictures of the quality during gaming.


click link in my sig you'll see wow and bf3 shots on it.

if you need any specifics let me know.


----------



## protzman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I'm debating selling my BenQ XL2420T and picking up a Crossover. Would it be worth it? For FPS?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have pictures of the quality during gaming.


now that is what i would be interested. Had my eyes on these bad boys for quite some time but then saw these crossovers and was like "oooooooohhhh ahhhhhhhh" now i have gone back to my obsession with these benq monitors. Where are u located and how old is it. that is if u were/are interested in selling it?


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eltocliousus*
> 
> Plex, let me know how it goes, I'm considering the same seller and monitor (Crossover over the catleap as it has 100x100 VESA), cheers!


Will do. Nothing on the tracking yet.


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *protzman*
> 
> now that is what i would be interested. Had my eyes on these bad boys for quite some time but then saw these crossovers and was like "oooooooohhhh ahhhhhhhh" now i have gone back to my obsession with these benq monitors. Where are u located and how old is it. that is if u were/are interested in selling it?


Roughly 4 months old. I'm still debating lol. Here's a link to my current setup


----------



## protzman

feel free to give me a holler if u want to!


----------



## C70T5

I got a response from AccessoriesWhole who have told me to send it back to them and they'll sort it out. Whoever quoted me earlier stating I created a different thread you are way off the mark. I didn't follow the link but I have only posted in this thread, nowhere else.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I got a response from AccessoriesWhole who have told me to send it back to them and they'll sort it out. Whoever quoted me earlier stating I created a different thread you are way off the mark. I didn't follow the link but I have only posted in this thread, nowhere else.


That's great to hear. I've heard nothing but good things about AW.

Just keep in mind that in South Korea, it's likely in the middle of the night when you're expecting them to respond in the middle of the day. I saw your post from a couple of days ago, so there was also the weekend. Looks like they responded to you as soon as business was open again on their Monday.


----------



## AP514

to C70T5- not a slam or anything

I also was wondering if you were the poster from 120hz.....the guy there realy blew things big time.......Before he even got a replyback from AW he wrote a really nasty Review......(what a Smart thing to do )

To everyone else

A note to ALL.....These sellers are all about *FACE* (the culture ) Most will bend over backwards to help you out ( fix the problem ) Why because it is all about save'n Face / Reviews. You got troubles ok it happens. Work with them. If you send them hostile emails ect.... they are going to put you on the back burner..........It is all about the Culture and Manners for them.

On a side Note
I just got my Crossover from GREEN-sum..DHL just dropped it off (4-days the weekend messed up faster ship'n)...

.................The box looks as if it has gone thru a WAR-zone..
It has a 1x1 puncher hole in the corner and the back of the box looks as if 10 bags/boxes sat on it on the Flight over. It is sunk'n in a bit in the middle.
I just opened it up and all looks good. The *Heavy Foam* on the ends keep (the sunk'n middle in the box) anything from hitting the back side of the screen...and protected it from the puncher in the corner.....will post pic's tomorrow...as it is time for work..No time to even plug it in.

Here is to a good pane...Cheers ! !

AP514


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AP514*
> 
> to C70T5- not a slam or anything
> 
> I just got my Crossover from GREEN-sum..DHL just dropped it off (4-days the weekend messed up faster ship'n)...
> .................The box looks as if it has gone thru a WAR-zone..
> It has a 1x1 puncher hole in the corner and the back of the box looks as if 10 bags/boxes sat on it on the Flight over. It is sunk'n in a bit in the middle.
> I just opened it up and all looks good. The *Heavy Foam* on the ends keep (the sunk'n middle in the box) anything from hitting the back side of the screen...and protected it from the puncher in the corner.....will post pic's tomorrow...as it is time for work..No time to even plug it in.
> Here is to a good pane...Cheers ! !
> AP514


did he bubble wrap the box? Accessorieswhole bubble wrapped my box and Fedex was nice to it, box was completely unscathed.


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I got a response from AccessoriesWhole who have told me to send it back to them and they'll sort it out. Whoever quoted me earlier stating I created a different thread you are way off the mark. I didn't follow the link but I have only posted in this thread, nowhere else.


C70T5 how did you go with return shipping and such? Are AW covering it or do you have to pay it?


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I bought a CrossOver 27Q LED-P from accessorieswholesale on Ebay. It was shipped a day or so ago but I got a strange tracking number, it's a few digits short for a FedEx tracking number, even though it says it's FedEx. Anyone have experience with this?
> EDIT: Turns out that FedEx Express is a bit different than FedEx and only has 12 digits in tracking. Still hasn't shown up yet though, but I'll just assume it's still moving through the system.
> Thanks!


Update on this ^

AW accidentally typed the tracking number into Ebay wrong. It was one digit off. I actually called FedEx Int'l and they gave me the right one, right as AW also caught the mistake and sent me a message apologizing. Haha.

Will be here Thursday.


----------



## Descadent

good to hear.


----------



## amazing235

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> C70T5 how did you go with return shipping and such? Are AW covering it or do you have to pay it?


I think AW covers the whole return shipping charge on them if the monitor REALLY has serious defects that considered to be useless.
I once asked them to take my monitor back then, they kindly assist me to fix problem occured on monitor.
Problem was only caused by the not working power brick.
They sent me a new one immediately via Fedex and no need for me to send my monitor back. lol

Which country do you live in?
I think, they provide return shipping arrangement via Fedex in some regions.
Which means, you do not have to wait for 2-3 weeks to get your replacement.

The best thing would be asking AW directly?
They/she will assist you promptly.


----------



## Ftruck

I've been in touch with AW they were great and got back to me quickly. They asked for pictures or videos of how the monitor is connected to the video card which was expected. It's definitely not a card or connection problem but they are just covering all bases. Obviously they asked for photos of the colour uniformity issues. This is where I'm stuck. None of the cameras I own will show up the difference especially with the back light. The only option I can really think of is getting a colorimeter or a spectrophotometer to show that there are large changes in colour temperature.


----------



## kwando

Hey guys,

I've had my Crossover for some months now. Absolutely ADORE the monitor. I got lucky and it's a pixel perfect from BCC.

Recently however, I've started noticing the brightness fluctuations. Do we have a general consensus on what causes this yet? It may just be my eyes but I notice it happens more when I have large white backgrounds up such as from websites etc.

Apart from that though, this has definitely one of the most satisfying tech purchases I've made my entire life, and I owe all the great advice to the members of this forum.

Cheers!


----------



## Plex

Shipped from AW: http://i48.tinypic.com/3476wjn.png

Talk about insanely FAST and FREE shipping.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex*
> 
> Shipped from AW: http://i48.tinypic.com/3476wjn.png
> Talk about insanely FAST and FREE shipping.


exactly how mine looked last week. took day and half to get to nc. you'll get it today. remember post pics


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> exactly how mine looked last week. took day and half to get to nc. you'll get it today. remember post pics


Nice! Thanks for the heads up!

Did yours still say there were two days remaining even though it was at a local facility? lol

Still says it's scheduled for Thursday but it's like 10 miles from my home town.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex*
> 
> Nice! Thanks for the heads up!
> Did yours still say there were two days remaining even though it was at a local facility? lol
> Still says it's scheduled for Thursday but it's like 10 miles from my home town.


it did until about hr later, then said out on truck. my estimated delivery date was off like yours too. just keep checking it most likely will update.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> it did until about hr later, then said out on truck. my estimated delivery date was off like yours too. just keep checking it most likely will update.


You gave me hope, sir. +1


----------



## Descadent

haha thanks


----------



## CaptainChaos

Mine came a day earlier than the estimate said, and if it wasn't for the weekend it probably would have come 2 days earlier.


----------



## C70T5

AW's response to my faulty monitor is that I have to pay the shipping to send the monitor to them. They will then repair it and send it back to me at their cost.

However they also offered me a replacement monitor if I pay the shipping charge both ways. I am just waiting for them to tell me how much the shipping will cost from their end and will make a decision. I would really prefer to not only replace the monitor but have a different model because I simply don't like the 2720MDP's design. The metal 27Q and 27M models feel much more premium and seem to last longer (at least my 27M is running perfectly and is older than the faulty 2720MDP).


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> AW's response to my faulty monitor is that I have to pay the shipping to send the monitor to them. They will then repair it and send it back to me at their cost.
> However they also offered me a replacement monitor if I pay the shipping charge both ways. I am just waiting for them to tell me how much the shipping will cost from their end and will make a decision. I would really prefer to not only replace the monitor but have a different model because I simply don't like the 2720MDP's design. The metal 27Q and 27M models feel much more premium and seem to last longer (at least my 27M is running perfectly and is older than the faulty 2720MDP).


Sorry for your luck mate. Hope it works out in the end.


----------



## derfer

Looking to get a white version. Both ta and AW have it but AW seems to have a better pixel policy, only 3 stuck/dead max. Worth the extra money to go with AW?


----------



## Descadent

yes imo, go back through last 10 or so pages. mostly all about aw


----------



## Plex

Monitor from AW arrived today.

Absolutely beautiful. Not a single dead or stuck pixel, and I looked REALLY hard with tests and everything. I got the 27Q LED-P, not Pixel Perfect.


----------



## WiKKeDWuN

@Plex

Are you getting any yellow tint when viewing white webpages starting from the half way point of the screen down? I have this on my 27q LED-P and its starting to annoy me. I only see it when looking at a white background. I got my from Green-SUM.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex*
> 
> Monitor from AW arrived today.
> Absolutely beautiful. Not a single dead or stuck pixel, and I looked REALLY hard with tests and everything. I got the 27Q LED-P, not Pixel Perfect.


aye told you, you would get it today!


----------



## Kuad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Someone tried to run three of those monitors is Eyefinity 7680x1440 ???
> I have 7970s and I experience problems.


I have 3 of em and use SLI (2 way 670 4GB's), beautiful and no issues at all


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> I have 3 of em and use SLI (2 way 670 4GB's), beautiful and no issues at all


your experience is exactly what I'm looking for.

what kind of fps are you getting in games? I'm bout to go nuts and order two more but I can decide if I should wait for next gen or not since 7680x1440 is so demanding


----------



## CaptainChaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiKKeDWuN*
> 
> @Plex
> Are you getting any yellow tint when viewing white webpages starting from the half way point of the screen down? I have this on my 27q LED-P and its starting to annoy me. I only see it when looking at a white background. I got my from Green-SUM.


Cant speak for Plex but I have the same monitor (from AW) and I don't have that issue.


----------



## edgexyan

Hi guys, I've read every of your posts for the last few weeks and I'm hoping on board today.

Is it me or AW just got a price drop?


----------



## CaptainChaos

Yeah it looks that way. I paid more for my non pivot last week then I would for a pivot now...









Eh still happy lol


----------



## bittauren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiKKeDWuN*
> 
> @Plex
> Are you getting any yellow tint when viewing white webpages starting from the half way point of the screen down? I have this on my 27q LED-P and its starting to annoy me. I only see it when looking at a white background. I got my from Green-SUM.


I've had 3 crossovers and they've all had this problem. It's normal. On both I also get yellowing right down the middle. I've learned to deal with it. I wonder if this is a panel issue or manufacturing (Yamakasi/Achieva have similar issues?)

The last two hasn't been soo much uneven horizontally, both do have shadowy grey bars at the bottom. It's the vertical unevenness that annoyed me at first.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edgexyan*
> 
> Is it me or AW just got a price drop?


Hello dear sir with 1 post!

They have indeed! (judging by my sampler which runs every hour)

AW dropped $30 off price for Pivot Tilt one, $28 off regular one and $28 off white version.


----------



## derfer

Well now dream-seller has the white for $337.90. Still worth getting from AW at $359.98?

Edit* nvm price shot up for dm


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiKKeDWuN*
> 
> @Plex
> Are you getting any yellow tint when viewing white webpages starting from the half way point of the screen down? I have this on my 27q LED-P and its starting to annoy me. I only see it when looking at a white background. I got my from Green-SUM.


Yup I got the same thing. Color uniformity issues are probably one of the main reasons these panels are A-. Not so much of a problem accept with the AW pixel perfects which make that "A+ panel guaranteed" claim. I'm talking to AW now to see if anything can be done about it.


----------



## ArtemS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> I'm talking to AW now to see if anything can be done about it.


Would be interested to know how you go, please consider posting the updates here.


----------



## Descadent

holy crap they did price drop! damnit owell monitor still worth it. and now I want two more even worse. come on!!!!!!!!


----------



## worde

Received my entry ticket to the glorious 27" IPS master race today and it is glorious indeed. Had some problems getting it to work though, the same issue with power on-panel flashes-no image-red light, that others here have had. I wanted to share the fix that got mine working.

While fiddling with the cables I noticed that if I push the DVI cable into the monitor's connector with a lot of force, it would work. As soon as I released my grip the screen went black again. I tried to tighten the connector as much as possible but I couldn't get the screws tight enough.

I removed the DVI cable to examine it for damage and afterwards happened to connect it back the other way around (monitor end was now on the gpu) and it started working! No idea why but I'm not complaining, will need to keep an eye on it though. Hope this helps someone.


----------



## Descadent

just fyi seems there is a Crossover LED Blade now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d#ht_20040wt_1163


----------



## Plex

Ouch, price drop three days after I bought it with a new model being released as well. Haha. Oh well







.

I also don't have the yellow tint issue, I tried to look for it, for whoever asked.


----------



## Descadent

well crap, I just bought two more. I couldn't resist. I just sold my iphone 4 on ebay for $300 so that helped!

time to suck up to the pregnant wife, cause I still gotta buy graphics cards too, and it's her birthday tomorrow.... what the hell to get her now after spending all this money......shes gonna expect something good.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

^^^ Don't get your priorities screwed up. My wife just recently separated from me because of crap like that.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> ^^^ Don't get your priorities screwed up. My wife just recently separated from me because of crap like that.


WOW that sucks!!!! So sorry for you bro.

Anyways, thanks descadent for giving us the heads up on the Crossover Blade.

I'm looking over the description right now and it cant figure out any noticeable differences despite it has a nicer and newer looking shell compared to the 27Q.


----------



## LC155

The blade uses the gold plastic bezel. It's not nicer at all. It's the same specs, but a new shell and some internal speakers.

The point of the crossover over the others (imo) is for dat metal bezel. Always go for that one, imo.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> WOW that sucks!!!! So sorry for you bro.
> Anyways, thanks descadent for giving us the heads up on the Crossover Blade.
> I'm looking over the description right now and it cant figure out any noticeable differences despite it has a nicer and newer looking shell compared to the 27Q.


it has speakers... whoopty doo...and stand is different.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> The blade uses the gold plastic bezel. It's not nicer at all. It's the same specs, but a new shell and some internal speakers.
> The point of the crossover over the others (imo) is for dat metal bezel. Always go for that one, imo.


yes. it's not just metal bezel, it's the whole damn monitor that is metal. just so sexy


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> yes. it's not just metal bezel, it's the whole damn monitor that is metal. just so sexy


That same chasis the blade uses is used in the UK DGM rebrand. I tried it out for a bit.

That stand is woefully pathetic at keeping the monitor upright.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> The point of the crossover over the others (imo) is for dat metal bezel. Always go for that one, imo.


I *just* got the Led-P because of the ability to do Portrait and the bezel - the p version has thinner bezels compared to the other korean ips monitors right?

I cant verify yet cuz i'm at work and my bro just signed for it







dammit 4 more hours! I'm really really hoping i get lucky and get a 0 dead pixel and 0 back light bleeding.

The whole thing was wrapped in bubble wrap so thats kinda cool


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I *just* got the Led-P because of the ability to do Portrait and the bezel - the p version has thinner bezels compared to the other korean ips monitors right?
> I cant verify yet cuz i'm at work and my bro just signed for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dammit 4 more hours! I'm really really hoping i get lucky and get a 0 dead pixel and 0 back light bleeding.
> The whole thing was wrapped in bubble wrap so thats kinda cool


P or not, the 27Q LED has the thinnest bezels. It was practically as thin as my Dell bezels, so that's very good for multi monitor setups!


----------



## edgexyan

I just ordered my 27Q LED. wooot, I'm in the club!


----------



## CptHirni

After following this thread for some weeks I ordered a -P last tuesday from red-cap. Got the shipping notice 7h later and on thursday it arrvied in Germany..where it got stuck in customs until yesterday -.-

The picture is perfect, no dead or stuck pixels, no noticable backlight bleeding. I'm totally blown away








The only fault is a slightly bend stand:

so the plastic cover doesn't really fit on it. I don't really care as I can't see the backside anyways.
I believe the monitor left the factory this way...the package and the double bubble-wrap around it were completly unharmed so it doenst seem to be some transportation damage.

I want to thank MenacingTuba for his color profile, it's perfect. ( http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/590#post_16946503 )

Does anyone have a 2560*1440 and a 1920*1020 (or smaller) monitor running with a GTX660ti or 670?
With the newest drivers the 6x0 cards should be able to switch into 2D power mode even if two displays with different resolutions are attached. Can anyone confirm that this will work, even if one display is running dual-link 2560*1440?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm curious about this too. What happens when you run different resolution monitors next to each other? I will have my Catleap/Shimian/Crossover sitting next to my S27A950D Samsung...


----------



## Descadent

I have my crossover and a 1920x1200p monitor running off my 570 and the 570 downclocks itself to save power....

got two 670 sc 4gbs and two more crossovers on the way now.


----------



## MrChie14

Have had my Crossover 27Q for a few days now - pixel perfect, and no noticeable back-light bleeding. Just upgraded from a woefully old 1600x1200 monitor. Nigiht/Day


----------



## jerrolds

Ok finally got my Crossover LED-P today! I took the time to create an album with pics of

Shipping info
Packaging
Contents
Backlight bleed
Bleed vs 6mo 2ms TN display
Side by side comparisons
Extreme angles
Pics of game
Bezel measurements

All in all it took 2.5 days, and i have 0 dead pixels with very minimal backlight bleed - it is comparable to my 6 month old 24" ASUS VS248H 2ms led backlit monitor (which is also VERY good for a TN display)

Ordered from Green-sum (non-perfect pixel), going to be giving him a positive review - unfortunately he did not read my message to mark it as a gift







Had to pay $50 extra in taxes or whatever

Check em out here if you like


http://imgur.com/p7pc2


----------



## shremi

Ok so after reading a lot i decided to go with the crossover









From which seller do you recommend buying ????? I

I know its a gamble with everyone but i want to know who will step up if the product is defective ????


----------



## kwando

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwando*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've had my Crossover for some months now. Absolutely ADORE the monitor. I got lucky and it's a pixel perfect from BCC.
> Recently however, I've started noticing the brightness fluctuations. Do we have a general consensus on what causes this yet? It may just be my eyes but I notice it happens more when I have large white backgrounds up such as from websites etc.
> Apart from that though, this has definitely one of the most satisfying tech purchases I've made my entire life, and I owe all the great advice to the members of this forum.
> Cheers!


Well ...now it just got interesting.

Since my initial post about the brightness fluctuations things have become progressively worse, and today, the screen won't even display an image anymore!

The blue led indicating power is still on, but the screen remains black. It all degenerated so quickly!

Does anyone have any recommendations? I haven't had one single issue with the monitor till the fluctuations started a few days ago.


----------



## CaptainChaos

have you tried multiple dvi cables?


----------



## kwando

Not yet, that's the next thing I'll do.

How likely do you think it's a cable related issue?

I've just ordered another power supply from ebay for troubleshooting too.


----------



## scorcho

Kwando, refer to this - http://www.overclock.net/t/1076808/fir3chi3fs-new-indepth-capacitor-replacement-monitor-repair-tutorial

You may need to go through this route if the new power supply doesn't work. Good luck!


----------



## kwando

Cheers mate that's a very helpful thread you've directed me to.

I'll leave this as a last resort, if BCC won't send me a replacement.

I've done some basic soldering in the past but nothing like this haha.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Ok so after reading a lot i decided to go with the crossover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From which seller do you recommend buying ????? I
> I know its a gamble with everyone but i want to know who will step up if the product is defective ????


i recommend Accesorieswhole. I've bought 3 from them already and should get the other 2 tomorrow so we will see how those arrive. I've had nothing but great communication with emailing back and forth. They are more expensive but they sell A panels and have less than 3 pixel policy and give you 1 year warranty. That's worth the extra over other sellers to me.

Others will say other sellers that are good too but either way monitor is great.


----------



## Infinite-Dev

Kwando, you have a pm.

So my repair was (mostly) a success. The only issue now is that the backlight never turns off (I'd rather have that issue than never turning on!). Even after consulting with some of my Computer Engineering buddies, we can't figure out why this is happening. I plan to wire a switch inline with the power to the led driver board, and will simply have to turn the monitor on with two the original power button and the backlight switch.

I plan on adding a heat sink to the mosfet, and a small fan in the monitor housing to prevent this from happening in the future.

I do not recommend this repair to anyone with little soldering experience or with a cheap soldering iron. Better yet, I do not recommend anyone attempt this repair- you can very easily damage your monitor!

Here are some pictures of the repair:



Spoiler: Warning: Large Images!



This picture shows the mosfet that was replaced. When it overheated, it damaged the PCB around it, and took one of the small traces with it. Also, all copper under the mosfet was stuck to the mosfet upon removal, hence the ulgy soldering job on the top. Because the trace was no longer there, I had to run a wire from the foot of the mosfet to a resistor where the trace connected. (Dime included for scale)









This shows how hot the mosfet got! (Back side of the board!)


































This is the video cable. Be very VERY careful with this when disassembling the monitor. It is very cheap, and very fragile, but essential to the operation! Use the wings on the connector for removal. (2nd pic)

















My soldering iron. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A CHEAP IRON! You WILL damage the board!


----------



## Tephnos

It's strange that it seems to be happening to crossovers and not the rest, isn't it?

I mean, it's not like they're outputting much more heat. If anything, the metal chasis will be better at getting rid of it!

And to the guy above: You've bought 5? Dude... Wife is going to kill you.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> It's strange that
> And to the guy above: You've bought 5? Dude... Wife is going to kill you.


not 5 lol. 3 but 2 of the 3 are on the way. Just left alaska tonight, got shipped from korea this morning, should hopefully be here tomorrow!


----------



## Infinite-Dev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> It's strange that it seems to be happening to crossovers and not the rest, isn't it?
> I mean, it's not like they're outputting much more heat. If anything, the metal chasis will be better at getting rid of it!


I think it was due to a combination of poor board design and cheap power supply. Even though I have one of the power supplies rated at 110 volts, (not that there's anything different between the two models - I bet they just slap a different sticker on there and sell you a second identical p/s), I bet the power coming through is not clean, and making the mosfet work way harder than it should.


----------



## swingbabe

Hi,
I decided to go with AW since most of people here recommended for.
I purchased Crossover 27Q LED-P. not pixel perfect monitor.
Sure the shipping only took 2 days from my payment completion.
The monitor was well packed with bubble wrap outside and nice touch of thank you letter and scarf included.
But I'm afraid that I'm gonna ask them to take it back.
I specifically requested for no backlight bleed on it and guess what I received.
Whoever was had conversation with me and promised for doing extra inspection before shipping it, very irresponsible on their word.
Maybe because I purchased the standard monitor, not pixel perfect monitor.
I'm very disappointed to receive this and I just cannot understand why people are praising about AW so much.

I thought AW sell the best monitor on ebay but you people are just over blowing about them.


----------



## POB UK

Removed


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swingbabe*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> I decided to go with AW since most of people here recommended for.
> I purchased Crossover 27Q LED-P. not pixel perfect monitor.
> Sure the shipping only took 2 days from my payment completion.
> The monitor was well packed with bubble wrap outside and nice touch of thank you letter and scarf included.
> But I'm afraid that I'm gonna ask them to take it back.
> I specifically requested for no backlight bleed on it and guess what I received.
> Whoever was had conversation with me and promised for doing extra inspection before shipping it, very irresponsible on their word.
> Maybe because I purchased the standard monitor, not pixel perfect monitor.
> I'm very disappointed to receive this and I just cannot understand why people are praising about AW so much.
> I thought AW sell the best monitor on ebay but you people are just over blowing about them.


Really?

If you ask any of the sellers to check something extra, most will probably ask for a little more money because they will have to waste their own time to check a lot of them to keep you happy. If you paid for the PP option, they probably would have done so, but the standard?

You weren't going to get absolutely perfect like that, just minimal (your definition of that and theirs is clearly different).


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swingbabe*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> I decided to go with AW since most of people here recommended for.
> I purchased Crossover 27Q LED-P. not pixel perfect monitor.
> Sure the shipping only took 2 days from my payment completion.
> The monitor was well packed with bubble wrap outside and nice touch of thank you letter and scarf included.
> But I'm afraid that I'm gonna ask them to take it back.
> I specifically requested for no backlight bleed on it and guess what I received.
> Whoever was had conversation with me and promised for doing extra inspection before shipping it, very irresponsible on their word.
> Maybe because I purchased the standard monitor, not pixel perfect monitor.
> I'm very disappointed to receive this and I just cannot understand why people are praising about AW so much.
> I thought AW sell the best monitor on ebay but you people are just over blowing about them.


Get lost, buddy.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plex*
> 
> Get lost, buddy.


+1 ! HE expects no backlight bleed on an led backlit monitor...









You can't even get that from dell or apple lol


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Wow, that's actually pretty good for a black screen in the dark. Not sure what you're on about?


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> +1 ! HE expects no backlight bleed on an led backlit monitor...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't even get that from dell or apple lol


Yep. Just another first post troll, nothing to see here.


----------



## POB UK

Earlier I wrote about my DOA 27Q LED. (But removed the message)

However I found a loose connection inside, which I could see from the outside through the holes on the back.

Opened the back, pushed the connector in place.

Now I have a perfect monitor, no dead pixels and the backlight is very good.








for AW


----------



## Descadent

could you be so kinda to post a picture so the club knows what connector your talking about?

thanks!


----------



## POB UK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> could you be so kinda to post a picture so the club knows what connector your talking about?
> thanks!




This was taken with the left hand side (when viewing from behind) section of the cover taken off.

When the display arrived the display was detected by windows and the PSU light was green, so I think this connector links the board to switch and LED indicator.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> +1 ! HE expects no backlight bleed on an led backlit monitor...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can't even get that from dell or apple lol


LOL that backlit bleed is almost non-existant. He has an A++ monitor from what i can see.


----------



## Descadent

thank you, +rep


----------



## Descadent

Got my other 2 crossovers from AW. They shipped yesterday morning from Korea and got here this afternoon in Charlotte NC. Insane speed.

Fedex had a field day with 1 of them, box corner was crushed, but the monitor was perfectly fine.

Both are just like my first one, ZERO dead pixels. Very little light bleed and I mean little!

Pics to come once I get it setup.


----------



## 161029

Pixel perfect or standard? I'm wondering if it's worth it to shell out a little more money for pixel perfect monitors. I know dead pixels aren't that noticeable at a distance, but it's nice to have all of them working.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Got my other 2 crossovers from AW. They shipped yesterday morning from Korea and got here this afternoon in Charlotte NC. Insane speed.
> Fedex had a field day with 1 of them, box corner was crushed, but the monitor was perfectly fine.
> Both are just like my first one, ZERO dead pixels. Very little light bleed and I mean little!
> Pics to come once I get it setup.


God dam you Fed Ex!!!!!!


----------



## b0z0

Do want now!!!


----------



## Queesy

I want a the Crossover Blade









I just bought my graphics card so I need to wait a couple of months before I can buy my korean panel.


----------



## ajflick42

Hey all, been reading and researching this monitor Crossover 27Q LED-P. Wow, getting excited. Ordering mine end of next week. Thanks for all of your post and pictures, it really helps. Now I am just trying to decide between AW or Red Cap. (any final thoughts on that for me to consider?)

thanks again for the great forum.


----------



## Pandasaurus

I'm deciding between AW or BCC (BigClothCraft). AW has the best ratings 99.9% on eBay and BCC has 99.5%. BCC let's you make an offer. AW has 3 pixel defect while BCC has 5 pixel defect. Hope this helps.


----------



## CaptainChaos

I was making the same decision just last week. I went with AW because of the dead pixel policy,and the fact that BBC wont really accept any offers that are a significant discount. Unless you're within a few dollars of the total they'll usually get automatically rejected. Overall though you probably wont go wrong with either. They're basically the top two sellers.


----------



## derfer

Just got my white from AW. The display is nearly perfect, no dead/stuck pixels, and only very subtle color unevenness.

My real problem is with the housing. The paint is bubbled in spots and there's this high pitched buzzing. At first I didn't notice. Now it's getting pretty annoying.


----------



## Descadent

Yes they are not pixel perfect, but they have no dead pixels from AW.









pics soon when i get this mess cleaned up. I gotta set it up so I can flip from portrait to landscape easily.


----------



## Descadent

bad news. one of the power supply's went out after about hr of being on. Not sure it there is a way to reset it or what went on internally.

:-(

my weekend dreams crushed.


----------



## derfer

Buzzing went away, I think. Screen doesn't seem to need any calibration. So I guess my only complaint now is the paint bubbles. The backlight bleed is no worse than any A+ IPS I've had. Wish the power plug to the monitor was more sensical. It has a notch and the input has 3 orientations with notches cutout. I just winged it and went with the notch facing the panel. It didn't look like it went in all the way (could still see metal on the connector) but it powered on and seems snug so I guess that's right.


----------



## elite2048

Got my crossover (2720mdp) from red-cap and was very satisfied. I went with him because his counter-offer was slightly lower than everyone else's. AW is more expensive, but it has a generous return policy which is one reason why it has a 99.9% positive feedback rating. For many people, it comes down to how much money you are willing to pay for that extra security.


----------



## Descadent

Well email sent to AW about power supply. Hopefully they can send another. Super bummed I cant use my surround setup now. SUPER bummed.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Sucks dude, I know the feeling. Just run two and enjoy the 1440p goodness!


----------



## ACIDpwns

My baby i cant find any dead pixels.......

Whats a program to help you see if you have any?

Got mine today and ordering another Crossover tomorrow!

By far the best chance you have of not getting bad pixels is Crossover by far! In all the Korean monitor clubs all have not such an emasculate perfect pixel percent.


----------



## Kuad

Lol I suspect you mean immaculate, not emasculate. Pristine, not removing masculine properties. But yes, of my 3 crossovers I had a grand total of 1 stuck subpixel - which in fact has disappeared over the past month or so, it's been 3 months and I am still super stoked on my purchase - 3 crossovers for the price of 1 apple cinema display FTW!


----------



## Damien Stenson

Hi all,
New to this forum but have spent the last while reading pages on this monitor. Hoping to purchase a crossover due to the better stand.
I have two questions that I'm hoping you may be able to answer for me.
1) I'm using getting a new 2012 macbook pro(Non retina) and I understand I'll need display port to dual link avi. Have any of you here used a Macbook pro with this screen? Any comments or reservations?
2) Why do some 27Q be advertised as 380cd/m² brightness and other 27Q models be listed as 420cd/m² brightness?
Thanks in advance 
Damien


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> Lol I suspect you mean immaculate, not emasculate. Pristine, not removing masculine properties. But yes, of my 3 crossovers I had a grand total of 1 stuck subpixel - which in fact has disappeared over the past month or so, it's been 3 months and I am still super stoked on my purchase - 3 crossovers for the price of 1 apple cinema display FTW!


haha yup either it's a typo or he thinks the monitors are so awesome that they are making him feel like less of a man by comparison.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Damien Stenson*
> 
> Hi all,
> New to this forum but have spent the last while reading pages on this monitor. Hoping to purchase a crossover due to the better stand.
> I have two questions that I'm hoping you may be able to answer for me.
> 1) I'm using getting a new 2012 macbook pro(Non retina) and I understand I'll need display port to dual link avi. Have any of you here used a Macbook pro with this screen? Any comments or reservations?
> 2) Why do some 27Q be advertised as 380cd/m² brightness and other 27Q models be listed as 420cd/m² brightness?
> Thanks in advance
> Damien


For the 27q and 27m, you will need an *active* mini-displayport to DVI adapter if you want the monitor to display 2560x1440 (using HDMI or a passive adapter results in a max resolution of 1920x1080 because only active adapters can take advantage of the DVI's dual-link). This also means that you will need a dual-link DVI cable (these have approx. twice the pins of a single-link). If you decide to go with a 2720mdp, then you will need a mini-displayport to displayport adapter. The 2720mdp and 27m cost extra over the 27q (even more if you get the pivot versions), but an active displayport to DVI adapter costs $60 by itself. While the 2720mdp and 27m have a plethora of other ports such as HDMI, their built-in scalers cause a slight input lag (I don't mind, but some gamers do). I'm using a 2720mdp with my 2011 macbook pro, so a 2012 model will definitely be compatible with any of the three, as long as you use the proper adapter and cable.

To answer your second question, the specs for the 2720mdp on the thread's first page are out-of-date. Its brightness is the same as that of the 27q and 27m: 380cd/m^2, not 420 (makes sense since they use the same panel). There was a faulty, earlier version of this model, so that may be why the specs are incorrect.

Hope this helps









Edit: added that the 27m has a built-in scaler too


----------



## Damien Stenson

Thanks very much elite2048.
Going to order one of the crossovers today. I was going to with the basic 27Q version as all I'll be doing is photoshop but the 2720 may be handy for my xbox also.
Is the lag you mentioned only in reference to gameplay with the 2720 or does it also show lag in normal use with normal computing browsing/itunes etc? If the lag is only in gaming I'd tolerate that and enjoy the extra functionality of the 2720.
Sorry for all the noob questions
Damien


----------



## Ftruck

The lag is not only in gaming it is present in anything however whether you would notice the lag depends on how sensitive you are. It is input lag so basically the time it takes from your graphics card sending the information to the monitor and the monitor then displaying it. eg. you move the mouse and graphics card sends information to monitor XXms later you see the cursor move on screen.


----------



## derfer

Is it worth mentioning the paint bubbles to AW? I wouldn't want to send it back since the panel itself is practically flawless and I don't want to risk getting a worse one.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Is it worth mentioning the paint bubbles to AW? I wouldn't want to send it back since the panel itself is practically flawless and I don't want to risk getting a worse one.


paint bubbles? interesting.


----------



## Tephnos

Take pictures of the paint bubbles so we can see?

Although If you're hoping for them to send over a new bezel and nothing else that you can put on, I really doubt they'd do that. Red cap has been known to supply PCBs without the monitors, maybe he could give you a bezel for a fee? Doubtful, though.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I'd be interested in seeing more photos of the white model in good light (and while you're at it, those paint bubbles sound interesting as well).


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> The lag is not only in gaming it is present in anything however whether you would notice the lag depends on how sensitive you are. It is input lag so basically the time it takes from your graphics card sending the information to the monitor and the monitor then displaying it. eg. you move the mouse and graphics card sends information to monitor XXms later you see the cursor move on screen.


My thoughts exactly.

Also, the input lag for a 2720mdp is about 11-14 ms (credit goes to menacingtuba for measuring it).


----------



## ED-E

I Just recieved my CrossOver LED-P from green-sum.

Great customer service and I had it 3 days after ordering. It has no dead or stuck pixels and minimum background bleed. Beautiful monitor - Gaming in 1440p really is gorgeous.


----------



## derfer

Seems to only be on the part that's normally black. Very annoying since looks is the whole point but I'm not understating it when I say this panel is nearly perfect. Never seen one this good. Not sure what could be done.


----------



## Sazexa

I personally would just keep the panel. Especially if the screen is flawless. The front ones are barely noticeable. And the others are out of sight, from your view.


----------



## Descadent

ouch, none of my 3 look like that, can you notice it big time?

On another note. Received email back from AW tonight about my power supply. It's monday there now so figured it wouldn't be until after weekend till I heard back. They are shipping me a new one immediately.


----------



## derfer

I see the one on the left all the time. Think I should mention it so they make sure it doesn't happen anymore.


----------



## shremi

Well i just ordered the crossover







from AH .

Cant wait to get it. Hopefully i wont get a defective unit.

BTW what do you recommend for finding dead pixels ????

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Xyphyr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-WHITE-27-Monitor-2560X1440-High-resolution-Monitor-QHD-DVI-/221112333966?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337b52768e

Want to get this once my MacBook Pro sells.


----------



## Ftruck

@ Derfer - I definitely wouldn't be sending it back if the panel is mint. Maybe like a partial refund or something but if the two options are send it back and risk getting an inferior panel or just dealing with it. I'd just deal with it. I'd take some bubbling paint over my yellow bottom half any day.

On another note I ordered an X-rite i1display pro on the 23rd from Amazon and accidentally selected regular shipping. Estimated delivery date in Australia is the 12th of September. 20days, That's like $2.50 iPhone case with free shipping from HK on eBay sort of shipping speed. That has to be on a boat. Won't be selecting regular shipping ever again, god damn i-parcel.


----------



## Descadent

Deffer I wouldn't send it back either, but I would definitely mention it. Grab a sticker and cover it up or something.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACIDpwns*
> 
> My baby i cant find any dead pixels.......
> Whats a program to help you see if you have any?
> Got mine today and ordering another Crossover tomorrow!
> By far the best chance you have of not getting bad pixels is Crossover by far! In all the Korean monitor clubs all have not such an emasculate perfect pixel percent.


Google LCD Repair Tool v2 - actually screw it http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html

Should help you find dead/stuck/backlight bleed - itll help unstuck pixels too


----------



## ajflick42

Has anyone seen this yet? I assume this is the same panel, of course that stand and plastic do not look that great compared to the crossover. thoughts? http://www.compuplus.com/insidepage.php3?id=1218348

I see that there is already a forum on this, please disregard. I still think I like the look of the crossover better, but seems a safer order?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Yes, there is even a dedicated thread for the Nixeus here.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Yes, there is even a dedicated thread for the Nixeus here.


+1


----------



## edgexyan

I just received mine, I'll hook it up in a few to check dead pixels and bleed.

The only thing that bugs me is that I had to pay an extra 41.24$ to fedex when I specified AW to mark down the price of the monitor when I bought it so I wouldn't have to pay duty fees. They marked it down to 200$ but that clearly wasn't enough to wave the fees... anyone else ended up paying fees to a Canadian address?

The monitor took 5 days to arrive in Quebec City, Canada.


----------



## Descadent

I think all canadians have had to do that, I could be wrong. Us Americans haven't because of the free trade agreement. I'm also guessing it was 5 days because of the weekend. My 3 monitors from AW were 1 and half days shipping from Korea to Charlotte, NC U.S.


----------



## MenacingTuba

I've ordered 2 and didn't have to pay duty on either, I live in B.C.


----------



## Descadent

AW is awesome. I got a new power supply next day air from Korea. Insane

Here it is!

First off. Bad Fedex BAD!





Both monitors, unscathed, no dead pixels minor backlight bleed. 1st monitor was same way.

What's powering the 7680x1440 - 2 EVGA GTX 670 SC 4GB



All setup Running Guild Wars 2 all max settings @ 7680x1440, in Rata Sum getting 50-60fps.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> All setup Running Guild Wars 2 all max settings @ 7680x1440, in Rata Sum getting 50-60fps.


Very nice, I just put 2 24" DELL TN panels on the side of my Crossover. I would feel overpowered by 2 more Crossovers









IPS glow doesn't bother you at your angle/viewing distance?


----------



## 161029

I'm afraid to use Fedex now.


----------



## Descadent

I play with lights behind me at night. I just have curtains closed and lights off in that pic, but I really haven't had chance to play yet on this other than the hr I did on friday before the left monitor's power supply went out.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> I play with lights behind me at night. I just have curtains closed and lights off in that pic, but I really haven't had chance to play yet on this other than the hr I did on friday before the left monitor's power supply went out.


Awesome set-up mate. What you need to do now is change your sig monitors to say 7680x1440.

Then make a new club called the "7680x1440 club" while you laugh at us peons.

(edited for stupid math)


----------



## Pandasaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> All setup Running Guild Wars 2 all max settings @ 7680x1440, in Rata Sum getting 50-60fps.


Nice setup! Liking the triple Crossovers!!


----------



## derfer

AW offered compensation for the paint bubbling, not sure how much yet. Also said he/she/they reads this thread. Definitely would order from them again, and probably will at some point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I'm afraid to use Fedex now.


Seen far worse with other sellers. Fedex is still the best for speed.


----------



## zephyrprime

This poll needs an option for 0 dead pixels.


----------



## ronald

Yew !! after consulting AW a few times I've finally decided to jump onto the bandwagon and purchase the crossover 27Q LED-P. Wish me luck !!
on a side note for some reason greensum sells there for 450 now instead of 330 which i found was strange.


----------



## ajflick42

Yeah so I am going with AW this weekend. I am going with the crossover 27Q LED-P, my only final questions for all, go for the standard version or do the pixel perfect? it is like an extra $100 for the PP. I know that others have posted that just bc you go PP that it still might not be as good than the regular. Just depends on luck of the draw?

Anyone who has ordered through AW have any advice for me? If this turns out to be a great monitor I will def order 2 more. Also any advice or questions that I should ask them?

Thanks again for everyone's help, I will post pictures and stuff to add to the forum once I get it in house.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> Yeah so I am going with AW this weekend. I am going with the crossover 27Q LED-P, my only final questions for all, go for the standard version or do the pixel perfect? it is like an extra $100 for the PP. I know that others have posted that just bc you go PP that it still might not be as good than the regular. Just depends on luck of the draw?
> Anyone who has ordered through AW have any advice for me? If this turns out to be a great monitor I will def order 2 more. Also any advice or questions that I should ask them?
> Thanks again for everyone's help, I will post pictures and stuff to add to the forum once I get it in house.


all 3 of mine non-pixel perfect from AW with zero dead pixels...plenty others as well. They usually do a little better because they sell A panels not A-. IMO pixel perfect isn't worth it when they have a 3 or less policy out of couple million pixels.


----------



## ajflick42

Perfect, thank you for the response. Going for the regular version. I can not wait to get my hands on this next week!


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> all 3 of mine non-pixel perfect from AW with zero dead pixels...plenty others as well. They usually do a little better because they sell A panels not A-. IMO pixel perfect isn't worth it when they have a 3 or less policy out of couple million pixels.


I still refuse to believe they actually sell any A panels. If anything, they just check A- panels, find them to have no dead pixels and then declare them A (which is wrong). That's only for the PP models of course.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> I still refuse to believe they actually sell any A panels. If anything, they just check A- panels, find them to have no dead pixels and then declare them A (which is wrong). That's only for the PP models of course.


hey whatever works! 3 out 3 being perfect and non perfect pixel versions

I ain't complaining considering my 3 is cost of 1 apple thunderbolt


----------



## Hohum

EDIT: Scratch my entire post...

Pulled the trigger on a 2720MDP GOLD LED from AW. Figured out that CrossOver updated the firmware for this screen soon after the original review and it improved things dramatically. $450 - a steal for what it is (fingers crossed that it's a good one!)


----------



## Grogan5000

I agree on extra poll option for zero bad pixels, 5 pixels aint "perfect" by most people's count

By the way my Greensum Crossover has no live tracking number yet 3.5 days after he said it shipped. Should only take a day or two for trace to show.
Will give it until Monday before I fuss lol

I got a Catleap from him a couple months ago that took about 3 days to New Zealand so pretty good.

Also he has just raised the price of Catleaps by $200 and Crossovers by $100.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grogan5000*
> 
> I agree on extra poll option for zero bad pixels, 5 pixels aint "perfect" by most people's count
> By the way my Greensum Crossover has no live tracking number yet 3.5 days after he said it shipped. Should only take a day or two for trace to show.
> Will give it until Monday before I fuss lol
> I got a Catleap from him a couple months ago that took about 3 days to New Zealand so pretty good.
> Also he has just raised the price of Catleaps by $200 and Crossovers by $100.


Have you tried this link yet? http://www.track-trace.com/

If it's not showing up after 3 days, then check with greensum to see if you have the right tracking number.


----------



## Grogan5000

Hi thanks, he sent the correct DHL link via Ebay but he has just replied to say there was a supplier delay and it has only just been picked up, so no problem.


----------



## wiseman92

hi guys! i just got my crossover 27Q. very happy with the product, however the brightness, even at lowest setting is killing my eyes! is there any hack/workaround that i can use to dim the backlight even further?









also i heard from the guys here there's new firmware for this model? how do we even update monitor firmware???


----------



## Hohum

Could you dim the brightness via your graphics card settings? Worth a shot...


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wiseman92*
> 
> hi guys! i just got my crossover 27Q. very happy with the product, however the brightness, even at lowest setting is killing my eyes! is there any hack/workaround that i can use to dim the backlight even further?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also i heard from the guys here there's new firmware for this model? how do we even update monitor firmware???


Go into either your ATI/AMD or NVidia graphic control panel, and lower the gamma. That could help.


----------



## firefox2501

Just ordered mine from AW. According to the item description it seems they have a 3 pixels or less policy. Is this right?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> Just ordered mine from AW. According to the item description it seems they have a 3 pixels or less policy. Is this right?


yes


----------



## Xinil

Just got my 27Q from AW today. HUGE amount of dead (stuck?) pixels in the top left. Very sad/unhappy about it, definitely not something i can ignore.

Pictures for proof:


http://imgur.com/edXvb


I've contacted AccessoriesWholesale. Hoping they give me some good news.


----------



## chinesefood

Just ordered a Crossover LED-P from dream-seller for $343.90. Excited for my first ever IPS.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xinil*
> 
> 
> Just got my 27Q from AW today. HUGE amount of dead (stuck?) pixels in the top left. Very sad/unhappy about it, definitely not something i can ignore.
> Pictures for proof:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/edXvb
> 
> I've contacted AccessoriesWholesale. Hoping they give me some good news.


that looks like something hit the screen and the liquid is bleeding.


----------



## Plex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> that looks like something hit the screen and the liquid is bleeding.


Yep, that's not a dead pixel, lol. That's physical damage.

Hope it all works out!


----------



## Xinil

Well, this is curious. I had the monitor off for a few hours...turned it back on, and there's noticeably less 'dead' spots. You can actually see a silhouette of whatever is behind it now. Here's the newest image.

What gives? Is there hope?


----------



## firefox2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xinil*
> 
> Well, this is curious. I had the monitor off for a few hours...turned it back on, and there's noticeably less 'dead' spots. You can actually see a silhouette of whatever is behind it now. Here's the newest image.
> What gives? Is there hope?


I actually fixed my 52" tv that had this issue by litterally massaging the pixels physically. Although I wouldn't reccomend it, I only did so with the knowledge that I could do more damage then good. I would look into getting it replaced as it came damaged.


----------



## firefox2501

Also just noticed his prices went up again.


----------



## Descadent

wow they did go up. glad I bought all 3 of mine in last two weeks then!


----------



## Hohum

Seems fair to assume that all of the Korean exporters will continue to up the prices until their sales start to take a hit. Despite the risks, it's still a very good buy on the whole for most people (except the unlucky ones who get damaged/faulty units).

Ordered mine from AW on Wed PM and it's already at my local depot, customs clearance done and all. Hopefully it comes today or I might be driving the 5 minutes down the road to collect it


----------



## ajflick42

Just ordered my 27Q LED-P from AW, boy his prices went up, but they just seem to have the best policy's and reviews. wish me luck on getting a good one. should be here Wed.


----------



## Irishtrekkie

hmm the 2720MDP GOLD LED is kinda expenisve , i guess thats cause its a 10bit screen ?(or is it something else).
plus i was looking at the pivot stand model , which is even more. Anybody have this ? and is it worth the extra or what ?.


----------



## the quiet earth

I bought the Crossover 27Q-P model from AW after doing some extensive research on all the different monitors available from Korea. Thanks to the people who've contributed to this thread for all their insights and shared knowledge. Without it I don't think I would have had the confidence to purchase an imported monitor to the UK.

I placed my order on Sunday night and received it yesterday without any additional costs being presented to me during delivery. I'm trying to get used to the reduced size of the screen as I've been using 40" LCD televisions as monitors for the past five years, with my last one being the Sony KDL 40EX723 which I have to say has been the best monitor/LED TV I've used for gaming and general PC usage.

The monitor I received from AW was not the pixel perfect type yet I've been fortunate enough to have got one that has no dead or stuck pixels at all









However, the only issue I had with the monitor out of the box is that it had a slightly yellowish tint overall. I'd read about that issue on here about 100 pages or so ago and a user offered a solution that seems to have worked quite well. Using nvidia's control panel to change the gamma values on the red and green channels has lessened the yellow tint that the factory default screen had when I first turned it on.

I don't want to jump the gun and blame the monitor for this but since installing it yesterday I've noticed an odour that wasn't in the room before. Has anybody else noticed anything unusual regarding smells after installing an imported Korean monitor?

All in all I'm very happy with my purchase. Games are pin sharp and I'm sure the refresh rate is higher than 60Hz as, at times, games are smoother than I've ever seen them before. Is that possible?

Again, thanks for all sharing all of your experiences with the monitor as it helped me purchase one. I'd definitely recommend them and AW have been excellent to deal with.


----------



## Hohum

My 2720MDP GOLD just arrived from AW - $460 all in. Ordered it around 3pm on Wed and it arrived at 12pm on Friday (to Canada) - under 48hr shipping time from South Korea!! It takes me longer to get stuff from neighbouring provinces...

Minor damage to the box from the shipping process, but the package had bubble-wrap all over the inside and on the outside, to prevent any damage to the unit in transit. Overall, very pleased with the ordering, shipping and handling process.

I got the tilt-only 2720MDP model, and the stand is very solid. It's not the flimsy, clear-plastic stand shown in their advertising promo, it's a more substantial base. The rest of the housing, of course, feels cheap'n'cheerful. It's functional though, and there are no gaps or obvious manufacturing flaws in the casing, so I can't complain. I have a DELL U2412M both at work and at home, so the glossy screen is something...new









Now on to the panel quality! Try as I might, I cannot find anything wrong with the panel itself bar a tiny bit of backlight bleeding. I hunted for a good 5 minutes for dead pixels, but none could be seen (note I did not order Pixel Perfect from AW). Performed a backlight bleed test with all other light sources off and screen on max brightness...tiny bit of bleed from the top-right edge but nothing that you would notice in regular use I feel. I recently purchased an ASUS PA238Q which had horrible backlight bleed - so bad, that I returned it and took the restocking fee hit. My DELL U2412M at home also has worse bleed in the top-right corner. Very, very surprised at how good the image and panel quality is ... guess my expectations were low going in to this to avoid disappointment









It's sitting in my car ready for the drive home now, so I'll run a fair few games through it tonight and see how it looks. Might even do a side-by-side with my U2412M in case anyone is interested in seeing the differences!


----------



## b0z0

Just reading this thread keeps giving me the Urge to sale my BenQ XL2420T and purchase the Crossover from AW.


----------



## ajflick42

Hohum, would love to see a comparison and video of games being played.


----------



## firefox2501

ordered mine wednesday morning, fedex said it would be delivered on the 5th and I just found out that it was delivered earlier this morning at my house.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> ordered mine wednesday morning, fedex said it would be delivered on the 5th and I just found out that it was delivered earlier this morning at my house.


sounds about right. the delivery date on my 3 were always wrong on fedex's site, but each 3 took day and half to get here from korea.


----------



## elite2048

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irishtrekkie*
> 
> hmm the 2720MDP GOLD LED is kinda expenisve , i guess thats cause its a 10bit screen ?(or is it something else).
> plus i was looking at the pivot stand model , which is even more. Anybody have this ? and is it worth the extra or what ?.


I have the pivot version of the 2720mdp. It is identical to the non-pivot in all respects other than the stand and its ability to go into portrait mode. Even though they claim it is a 10-bit screen, the color gamut is is able to display is the same as that of the 8-bit monitors (72% of NTSC). Having said that, the colors are very vibrant, and once calibrated, can be very accurate. After all, Apple uses a similar panel in their cinema display.


----------



## TK219

I just wanted to share my experiences ordering my Crossover 27p. I got it from Dream_Seller off ebay, shipping was fast and there was no issues going through customs. The monitor was packaged well, with lots of protective padding, it got here with no apparent damage. I hooked up my power supply and plugged in my monitor. It looked amazing - for all of a minute, then it went black. The back light was still operational. I tried swapping out the power supply (with my friends shimian one), I tried a different DVI cable, I tried using my buddies computer which runs the 27" shimian fine. Nothing fixed the issue, the monitor works (and looks great) but for only 1 to 2 minutes.

Here is a video if you are interested: 




I just hope that Dream_Seller replaces this monitor without me having to pay for return shipping. Any thoughts?


----------



## Hohum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> Hohum, would love to see a comparison and video of games being played.


I will certainly try to get on that over the long weekend







I did manage to do a bit of side-by-side with the two tonight, but no chance to take pics or make a video yet.

That said, here are my impressions so far...

On closer inspection when I got everything set up at home, I can spot two issues with the panel I didn't see at first glance.

Firstly there is a definite back-light bleed in the top right corner which looks pretty bad when any dark image is on the screen in a low-light room. It's not terrible by any means (I have bought supposed A/A+ panels locally with worse ... *cough*ASUS*cough*) but it is there and noticeable on a dark screen. I can't see it at all in normal use without really trying hard to look.

Secondly, on a pure white screen the bottom 3rd of the panel has a slight yellow tint to it. Again, this is not something you would readily notice unless you were in the right conditions and specifically looking for it. Really though, I don't care about either of these issues. Sure I paid over $400 for the screen which might seem like a premium, but considering the screen size, resolution, panel tech and connection options, it's a steal. Realistic expectations are very important with these screens I feel, and I'm very happy with my purchase despite its unwanted extra "features"









Side-by-side with the U2412 there was a big difference. I calibrated both simply using the Windows 7 colour calibration tool and eyeballing it (no technical wizardry here! /spits into fire) The Dell seems to have nicer uniformity on whites and less back-light bleeding, but that was the only two things I could say were better vs the CrossOver. Using 1920 x 1200 feels TINY after even an hour at 2560 x 1440! I really get what people mean when they say that 16:9 vs. 16:10 means a whole helluva lot less at this screen size and resolution.

The CrossOver is bright and very crisp with great colours. I'm not sure how accurate they are even after my colour lolibration attempts, but I knows what I likes and I likes this. The Dell, by comparison, looks perhaps more accurate in terms of the colour, but it looked a bit flat and lacked the "pop" of the CrossOver.

Rather than Wall-o-Text everyone to death I will simply say that, despite the defects, I'm super pleased with the screen. The image quality is absolutely fantastic and precisely what I was looking for in a new monitor!


----------



## TimothyJB

Hi everyone,

I'll start by saying that no, I haven't read the whole thread sorry, but was wondering if someone could help me.
I'm considering buying one of these (Crossover 27Q LED-P) however before I do I want a little reassurance it will work with my system (which I actually don't have yet, it's coming soon). I'm ordering a Lenovo Thinkpad X230T and I know that it can take this resolution as I've seen a video of this laptop supporting a 2560x1600. Based on this I'd be fairly same to assume this will work, right?
I was just a little worried because of the whole "supported graphics card" thing I've been seeing but was given the impression that things like looking at the BIOS with this display won't work, but if it can support the resolution (which I know it can support higher) it should generally work.
Anyone think I'll have problems?

Thanks.


----------



## Dehatitated

Hi, I have not posted on this thread yet, but I got my Crossover 27q LED-P on Thursday and I ordered it on the Sunday, I am in Queensland, Australia so I am very pleased. The black parts around the screen (I think they are called the bezel) has two painting imperfections that are not very noticeable. I really like the size but I have to get used to all the new screen area as it is such a high resolution and I am coming from a 23 inch monitor. The stand seems nice and sturdy. I will have to test it for dead pixels and light bleed. But as far as I am aware there is not any dead pixels that I can spot. It feels like I am a winner so far, I was like a kid at Christmas when it arrived. The brown box was slightly pushed in but the monitor was wrapped in a lot of bubble wrap. The seller also gave me a conversion to Australian plug and three different coloured bandana/scarf things. I bought mine from "accessorieswhole".


----------



## derfer

Slightly concerned, getting flickering. Changing brightness up or down seems to fix it for awhile for some reason. Anyone ever find a solution to this?

Also is it possible for backlight bleed to get worse? I swear when I got this thing it had zero perceivable bleed, but now I'm seeing it on the bottom corners like my old viewsonic IPS. I tilted it up more to try and manage it.


----------



## vsshokeen

Hi guys

From what review i saw on

http://www.playwares.com/xe/22822289

2720MDP is poor in comparison to 27Q especially the color temp, tone and accuracy of colors blacks etc

So does it mean that 27Q is better than 2720MDP

You have to translate the above mentioned webpage using google chrome

please go through it and let me know if all that is written is true.

please hurry and let me know especially those who have 2720 model

i have a gtx 460 ZOTAC OC version of graphics card. I hope it is adequate

regards


----------



## Hohum

As per my PM but I will also put it here - the first post in this thread is out of date.

Playwares did a new review of the updated 2720MDP GOLD LED: http://www.playwares.com/xe/22912327

As you can see, CrossOver upgraded the firmware and it made a huge difference to the quality of the panel. I asked AW before shipping about this and they confirmed that all their screens are using the new firmware.


----------



## Hohum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TimothyJB*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> I'll start by saying that no, I haven't read the whole thread sorry, but was wondering if someone could help me.
> I'm considering buying one of these (Crossover 27Q LED-P) however before I do I want a little reassurance it will work with my system (which I actually don't have yet, it's coming soon). I'm ordering a Lenovo Thinkpad X230T and I know that it can take this resolution as I've seen a video of this laptop supporting a 2560x1600. Based on this I'd be fairly same to assume this will work, right?
> I was just a little worried because of the whole "supported graphics card" thing I've been seeing but was given the impression that things like looking at the BIOS with this display won't work, but if it can support the resolution (which I know it can support higher) it should generally work.
> Anyone think I'll have problems?
> Thanks.


Hi there. The 27Q LED-P only has one input port - a DVI Dual Link input. To work at all, this requires a graphics card with DVI Dual Link output...looking at the specs of your laptop I don't see that it has one.

I would contact Lenovo and ask them if the laptop will run on DVI-DL l(using their DisplayPort-to-DVI adaptor) . Definitely proceed with caution though as there's a good chance the 27Q won't work for you, sorry to say. Best to make sure before taking the plunge.


----------



## Xinil

I'm so confused with my 27Q's dead pixels. Check out the progression of the defect since I've received it:

Note: I've probably only used the monitor a total of maybe 6 hours between turning it on/off.

Day 1 opening:


Day 1 end of day:


Day 2 end of day:


Day 3 morning (today):


As you can see, HUGE difference. I'm contemplating if it'll be 'gone' in a few days. What do you guys think? AW has not yet responded to my support request.


----------



## 161029

Lol! Magic dead pixel revival?


----------



## vsshokeen

hi again

how is your 2720MDP?

does it have issues with grey levels, tone or colors?

is there a calibration profile for 2720MDP like it is for 27Q?

Did you calibrate it?

Did you adjust it gamma value as well?

If cost connectivity are not the issue and instead

time lag,
picture quality and
color accuracy

is the ONLY concern

then which is better 27Q or 2720MDP or Blade or 27M/H?

I am scared of green tint and washed out images and i need as accurate colors and qick response maybe higher refresh rate as well

Which is best Korean monitor based on my above mentioned requrement?


----------



## vsshokeen

did you get ur answer?

i to have same delima

27q

or

27m

or

2720MDP

please help

Cost is not the factor, i want the best monitor in color, tone, calibration, gtg time etc. I mean best performance is what i am looking for


----------



## Hohum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsshokeen*
> 
> 27q
> or
> 27m
> or
> 2720MDP


Unless you need more than a DVI input, then I would go with the 27Q.

Also try to keep realistic expectations. The panels in these monitors were rejected at the LG factory, meaning there will be minor defects. This could be a few dead pixels, some backlight bleeding, bad uniformity, hardware issues ... it's a complete lottery. I would not base my decision on which model might have the better quality, pick the one that you like most in terms of inputs/case/stand and get that.


----------



## vsshokeen

so, do u mean if connectivity is not an issue 27Q has the best tuning and performance among all others ?

can u please elaborate why 27Q?

i mean which aspect of 27Q is better in performance than 2720?

thanx a lot for eveything


----------



## Pandasaurus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsshokeen*
> 
> so, do u mean if connectivity is not an issue 27Q has the best tuning and performance among all others ?
> can u please elaborate why 27Q?
> i mean which aspect of 27Q is better in performance than 2720?
> thanx a lot for eveything


From what I read on this thread, the 2720 has a higher input lag compared to the 27Q, making the 27Q better, unless of course you need more inputs like HDMI, etc., then you get the 2720 and deal with the little issues. Correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## C70T5

27M is discontinued.

I have a 27M and would like another but AW don't sell them. In which case I would take a 27Q normally but my faulty monitor is the 2720DMP Gold so they will only send me the same model back.


----------



## General123

Out of curiosity are these overclockable at all? Like 75-80hz? or just no?


----------



## mpreal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General123*
> 
> Out of curiosity are these overclockable at all? Like 75-80hz? or just no?


Not overclockable, the PCB is locked at 60hz


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mpreal*
> 
> Not overclockable, the PCB is locked at 60hz


Thank you, hope it does not hurt to much going to it from my 120hz.


----------



## ronald

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to update my sit ... I just recieved my crossover 27Q LED-P non pixel perfect version today. It is amazing, the amount of screen space you can get with this thing is insane, not to mention the panel quality is top notch. I was fortunate enough to only get 1 stuck pixels, however would require me to strain my eyes with my nose against the monitor to notice the feint stuck pixel. Also the colors on this thing came perfectly calibrated, there are no yellow tints or flickering issues. Also ordered this from AW when it was still $369, will upload some pics in future.

Glad to join the club guys >


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Happy to say I decided on getting a Crossover over a Yamakasi/Shimian/etc. and it just shipped out today!







Will submit photos once I have it up and running and add to the poll, which really helped me make my decision on going with the Crossover.


----------



## Grogan5000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grogan5000*
> 
> I agree on extra poll option for zero bad pixels, 5 pixels aint "perfect" by most people's count
> By the way my Greensum Crossover has no live tracking number yet 3.5 days after he said it shipped. Should only take a day or two for trace to show.
> Will give it until Monday before I fuss lol
> I got a Catleap from him a couple months ago that took about 3 days to New Zealand so pretty good.
> Also he has just raised the price of Catleaps by $200 and Crossovers by $100.


Still no live tracking number from Green-sum, bought on 26th a day or two before the price went way up.

He said this on the 30th:

"Hi, thank you for your order.We are sorry for the late updating for a while, There was supply delay by manufacturer.Now everything is ok, DHL picked it up and need to register for export clearance.You can see the status, we will contact DHL about this. Thank you."

Messaged him again, looking kinda fishy now as the track number still doesnt show. I wonder if the more expensive screens are any different?


----------



## Grogan5000

Ok so it was defective and hes waiting for good stock, fine I suppose


----------



## Descadent

i've seen couple of users report the same thing about green sum in this thread and the other koreans monitors clubs. If you can't cancel it all together, hope you get it soon.


----------



## ieya

Just registered to add in my experience, ordered a Crossover 27Q from accessorieswhole on ebay, it departed Bucheon-si on the 30th of August and then travelled through Incheon, Guangzhou, Koeln, Paris, Stanstead, and finally Edinburgh before being delivered to me yesterday. Haven't managed to spot a dead or stuck pixel yet - count me as very happy indeed!

Compared to my previous Dell 2005FPW it's quite a size increase...


----------



## vsshokeen

Hi

I pulled the trigger on 27Q-P as 2720 MDP has a lot of input lag and such issues

I got it from BCC as reputation of AW and Dream-seller is questionable

Keeping my fingers crossed


----------



## ajflick42

Well my monitor just got to my city this morning via fedex, how long do they hold it? they say it should be delivered by thursday?

Anyone else have to sit and know their monitor was 15 minutes down the road and can not go get it?


----------



## Rayyeter

Try calling with your tracking number to arrange pickup?


----------



## ieya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> Well my monitor just got to my city this morning via fedex, how long do they hold it? they say it should be delivered by thursday?


In my case, it got to my city around 6am, the projected delivery date was the following day, but it got delivered around lunchtime the day it got to my city.

Would imagine as long as it gets to your city early, it'll be on the delivery van - rather pot luck as to where on their route you are time wise though!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsshokeen*
> 
> Hi
> I pulled the trigger on 27Q-P as 2720 MDP has a lot of input lag and such issues
> I got it from BCC as reputation of AW and Dream-seller is questionable
> Keeping my fingers crossed


aw questionable? lol they are the #1 seller of korean monitors. according to their feedback as they are the only top seller and our experiences(3 for me from aw, day and half delivery to the U.S. and zero dead pixels even overnighted me a power supply from korea that died as a free replacement!)


----------



## firefox2501

Been using mine for a few hours and am very impressed. I have far less black light bleed then my U2412m and have not found any dead or stuck pixels.


----------



## tK FuRY

Just got mine in today along with a note from dream-seller; he stated "There have been more issues with this brand, the reason for your late shipment is the first monitor was full of dead pixels. We sent it back and they sent us another one, we tested the monitor for you and its to satisfaction." So far no dead pixels that I can see, no stuck ones either. Backlight bleed is very minimal even on a 100% black image.


----------



## AP514

Got a fast question for you guys.....I have a Crossover.. and a few days ago the afterburner chart and other text on my Computer went really Small.(was readable before) also when I open my AV program now the text has Shrunk to a very small size...was not like this before on my monitor....i mean so small I can not read it. I tried to see if the DPI in windows had changed or something....now If i change the DPI my Icons on my Desktop are really big(the Icon size never changed in this problem just the Text size) im at the end of my rope try'n to figure this out...I need some help...any Ideas ??

Thanks in advance

AP514


----------



## Mandroid

I felt I needed to share my experience and ask for some assistance. I bought the plain Crossover 27Q LED back on June 15, 2012. I chose it because I liked the housing and stand better than the other Korean options. It was working fine last night when I shut down, but when I got up this morning all I got was a black screen. The power light was blue indicating signal, but no picture. Disassembled and this is what I found.


I don't know if my power brick was the cause or just a faulty component. I hope replacing the smoked component and getting a better replacement power brick will save it. I'm pretty sure the dark spots around the resistors in the center are just flux residue. I don't see any indication of damage to the other boards. If anyone can direct me towards somewhere I can find what I need, I would appreciate it.


----------



## Descadent

oh wow. would have no idea on what to tell you to do about that.

that square trade warranty is sounding more tempting just to be safe on my 3.


----------



## jmzhwng

Which power brick did they give you? Loadus? Welltronics?


----------



## spo0linup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandroid*
> 
> I don't know if my power brick was the cause or just a faulty component. I hope replacing the smoked component and getting a better replacement power brick will save it. I'm pretty sure the dark spots around the resistors in the center are just flux residue. I don't see any indication of damage to the other boards. If anyone can direct me towards somewhere I can find what I need, I would appreciate it.


I believe I've seen that happen to someone else either on overclock.net, or another website. He ended up soldering a new mosfet onto the board (albeit externally wired) along with a cooling fan to keep it cool. i'll try to find it, but his board looked exactly like yours did

edit: http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/2330#post_18004234

there ya go


----------



## Mandroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmzhwng*
> 
> Which power brick did they give you? Loadus? Welltronics?


I have a loadus, but I don't know if it had anything to do with the failure. I don't really have any good way to test it under load either.

As for replacing the mosfet, I found the specs for the original, but I'm not an electronics expert...I don't know which of those specs are important to function and which ones can be altered. I've been trying to find one on Digi-Key's website, but the ones closest matching in specs have zener diodes instead of standard diodes between drain and source.


----------



## swish919

Just got mine today... OMG, where has this been all my life... makes my dell u2410 pale in comparison and i love my dell too!

was considering getting a 2nd u2410 but started reading about these panels... decided to take the plunge and that was a great decision too... so far zero dead/ or stuck pixels and it may or may not have any bleed, i really couldn't tell. with the lights dimmed, i could easily tell slight bleed from my u2410. now this is tempting me to try and sell my dell and get a 2nd unit... I really love this 27Q-P! ... knock on wood it stays working well for a very long time. thanks for everyone on this thread who convinced me to take the plunge.























shout out to descadent, your setup was what pushed me over the edge


----------



## MisterA

Does anyone know if you can buy a replacement controller board for these type of monitors? I contacted 'dream-seller' on ebay, but they told me they couldn't sell any separate parts.

I have a 'black out' problem on my monitor:






Best regards,
Jan


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swish919*
> 
> Just got mine today... OMG, where has this been all my life... makes my dell u2410 pale in comparison and i love my dell too!
> 
> was considering getting a 2nd u2410 but started reading about these panels... decided to take the plunge and that was a great decision too... so far zero dead/ or stuck pixels and it may or may not have any bleed, i really couldn't tell. with the lights dimmed, i could easily tell slight bleed from my u2410. now this is tempting me to try and sell my dell and get a 2nd unit... I really love this 27Q-P! ... knock on wood it stays working well for a very long time. thanks for everyone on this thread who convinced me to take the plunge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shout out to descadent, your setup was what pushed me over the edge


Wow, thanks for chiming in with your opinion that it "tops" your Dell. That is definitely an opinion many should read if they've been hesitant on buying a Crossover.

Very great first post, it earned you your first rep! You now have 1 rep for every post you've made! Lol


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swish919*
> 
> Just got mine today... OMG, where has this been all my life... makes my dell u2410 pale in comparison and i love my dell too!
> was considering getting a 2nd u2410 but started reading about these panels... decided to take the plunge and that was a great decision too... so far zero dead/ or stuck pixels and it may or may not have any bleed, i really couldn't tell. with the lights dimmed, i could easily tell slight bleed from my u2410. now this is tempting me to try and sell my dell and get a 2nd unit... I really love this 27Q-P! ... knock on wood it stays working well for a very long time. thanks for everyone on this thread who convinced me to take the plunge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shout out to descadent, your setup was what pushed me over the edge


glad I could help you spend money!


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *swish919*
> 
> Just got mine today... OMG, where has this been all my life... makes my dell u2410 pale in comparison and i love my dell too!
> was considering getting a 2nd u2410 but started reading about these panels... decided to take the plunge and that was a great decision too... so far zero dead/ or stuck pixels and it may or may not have any bleed, i really couldn't tell. with the lights dimmed, i could easily tell slight bleed from my u2410. now this is tempting me to try and sell my dell and get a 2nd unit... I really love this 27Q-P! ... knock on wood it stays working well for a very long time. thanks for everyone on this thread who convinced me to take the plunge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shout out to descadent, your setup was what pushed me over the edge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glad I could help you spend money!
Click to expand...

Could you link me to your post that he was referring to? Edit: Nevermind, I see it's in your album.


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swish919*
> 
> Just got mine today... OMG, where has this been all my life... makes my dell u2410 pale in comparison and i love my dell too!
> was considering getting a 2nd u2410 but started reading about these panels... decided to take the plunge and that was a great decision too... so far zero dead/ or stuck pixels and it may or may not have any bleed, i really couldn't tell. with the lights dimmed, i could easily tell slight bleed from my u2410. now this is tempting me to try and sell my dell and get a 2nd unit... I really love this 27Q-P! ... knock on wood it stays working well for a very long time. thanks for everyone on this thread who convinced me to take the plunge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shout out to descadent, your setup was what pushed me over the edge


Yo swish919-

I got my 27Q in May 2012 - and my experience was/is EXACTLY like yours (Dell U2410 and all)-eh!!

Mike


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Tracking number on my eBay got changed from a DHL to a Fedex, package isn't shipping until just now... -____-







So it won't get here tomorrow like was estimated, but should still get here just in time for Armored Kill.


----------



## ampsonic

Just received my 2720MDP. Screen looks great, but man, the stand is horrible. Mine leans a bit.

Biggest problem is that the AC Adapter (which was listed and is rated at 110-220v) hums REALLY loudly when the monitor is on. The pitch of the hum changes with the brightness of the screen. Is this indicative of a bad AC adatpter?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampsonic*
> 
> Just received my 2720MDP. Screen looks great, but man, the stand is horrible. Mine leans a bit.
> Biggest problem is that the AC Adapter (which was listed and is rated at 110-220v) hums REALLY loudly when the monitor is on. The pitch of the hum changes with the brightness of the screen. Is this indicative of a bad AC adatpter?


I would say so. Hit up your seller for a replacement or buy a replacement off ebay. Search on ebay EFL-2202W. I bought a backup from cbk_electronics_usa


----------



## ajflick42

Just got my crossover 27Q led-p. no dead pixels, less backlight bleed than my $2500 samsung tv, the picture is amazing. I got it from AW, Fantastic. (for now at least) only problem i had was the power adapter, the part that goes into the screen was not quite round, but a quick soft ease with some pliers fixed it and it went into the hole. but holy cow. I came from a 26 inch samsung lcd 1200p. Going to game now. Wow! as long as it stays just like this, i feel like I got over on someone.


----------



## computerdeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> Just got my crossover 27Q led-p. no dead pixels, less backlight bleed than my $2500 samsung tv, the picture is amazing. I got it from AW, Fantastic. (for now at least) only problem i had was the power adapter, the part that goes into the screen was not quite round, but a quick soft ease with some pliers fixed it and it went into the hole. but holy cow. I came from a 26 inch samsung lcd 1200p. Going to game now. Wow! as long as it stays just like this, i feel like I got over on someone.


Did you get the Perfect Pixel?


----------



## ajflick42

no i did not. just the regular, but aw is charging 414 for it. completely worth it. I will use them again if i need anything. it is unbelievable that someone would have 3 of these, thing is huge. btw been gaming, D3 looks great, skyrim looks incredible. just downloaded the patch for bf3 will let ya know. no ghosting, is way smoother than my samsung was... got to get back to gaming..


----------



## ajflick42

So I fired up b3, again it looks and feels smoother than my Samsung 1200p toc also a $400 monitor a year back. The color is great, I don't think it will need any adjustment, but might mess with it this weekend. On the stand, I like, it's not the best in the world, but very very happy I went with the adjustable one. Pulled it up and center speaker sits right underneath. Pictures this weekend! If you want pictures I will sent them from my phone to your email if you would like. Pm me. Thanks.


----------



## Divineshadowx

Hey guys. Which one should I buy? The difference is 100 bucks but the gold has 10bit color, prob wont make a difference, might even look worse, but has a perfect pixel version for only 430, seems inviting. My 690's are on my noob 1080p. I'll buy two more later if I like it.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Go for it! That's a great price for the Gold AFAIK...


----------



## Sweet

Hi guys,

sorry my english so poor









I brought another monitor (right in the picture)
Was not lucky, they have different logos. But it is not as critical as the next:

He has a different color, with a yellow tinge.
one display cold, and another monitor with a warm color? how can I fix it?


----------



## derfer

Anyone ever figure out what the flickering is from? ****ty psu? Bad caps?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweet*
> 
> Hi guys,
> sorry my english so poor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I brought another monitor (right in the picture)
> Was not lucky, they have different logos. But it is not as critical as the next:
> He has a different color, with a yellow tinge.
> one display cold, and another monitor with a warm color? how can I fix it?


Try adjusting with the color with software.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Anyone ever figure out what the flickering is from? ****ty psu? Bad caps?


I thought my intermittant flickering was from my power supply so I contacted my seller which he asked me to check with a volt meter, I got 23.4 volts on pins 1&2 and 23.6 volts on pins 3&4 and a green light on the power brick. So I've just got to send a vid of the fault but the it's not doing it today









I would shoot your seller an email with a YouTube video of it though, mine is listening and willing to help.


----------



## ykalarva

Hi!

I got my monitor last week from green-sum. Anyone else has the same problem?


----------



## C70T5

Are you using the DVI-D cable? Make sure it is in correctly.

Try switching the cable around and see if it makes a difference.


----------



## C70T5

I have removed this comment as AW resolved my return in the end and in such a way that I will buy from them again.


----------



## vsshokeen

refer to post No 2499 and other such posts.

AW is picking up bad reputation

that is why i went with BCC

Trust me i did my homework

BCC is better than AW


----------



## vsshokeen

ReplyQuote MultiREP+


----------



## vsshokeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> aw questionable? lol they are the #1 seller of korean monitors. according to their feedback as they are the only top seller and our experiences(3 for me from aw, day and half delivery to the U.S. and zero dead pixels even overnighted me a power supply from korea that died as a free replacement!)


AW is picking up bad reputaion

BCC is better. I feel so and i am waiting with my fingers crossed

I hope i dont have to eat my words


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsshokeen*
> 
> refer to post No 2499 and other such posts.
> AW is picking up bad reputation
> that is why i went with BCC
> Trust me i did my homework
> BCC is better than AW


yeah ok. thats why AW is still #1 and the only top seller on ebay of korean monitors


----------



## matisto27

Hey i'm wondering if i have my 27Q LED-P screen i see there is a 110-220 volt adapter included is this alright for europe ?
So i can just insert this in my electricity here ? you don't need to change anything ?

Also can someone tell me if there is always a DVI-D dual link included with the screen?
greets
Matis


----------



## C70T5

Please enter something before you submit your post.


----------



## Descadent

that doesn't sound accurate at all and that is not their warranty replacement policy. like I said i had 3 delivered in a day and half from them and they overnighted me a powersupply from korea. Not sure how much better it gets

Just look at the feedback on ebay, but to each their own.


----------



## ajflick42

I feel like i should bring up what others have brought up in the past here for new potential buyers: We know that these monitors are the rejects from the LG factory which is fact. There is risk in ordering one of these monitors. I love mine, no dead pixels and slight blacklight bleed top left. That being said, I ordered from AW, non pixel perfect, and so far so good. So again we can all agree the risk involved but the reward is 1440p led panel that cost around $400 or less. I was going to order a dell 27 inch at $800+, but I cut my cost in half and took the risk. knowing that if something went bad I might have to pay more to get it resolved. I am a sucker for a deal.

Furthermore most of the sellers say right on their website exactly what it is you are ordering. it is expensive to ship something from korea, thus they cover the cost in the price of the monitor and what is left is their profit. (Mr. Obvious I know) I think i have read on other forums that if you were in korea you can buy one for $250 on the street, you order 1000 of them it is like $100 a piece. So we can all agree, no one is really getting rich fast by selling these monitors. some profit yes, but not like apple profit at $1000+ per monitor or dell at $800 per monitor, but with that said, when you pay $1000 you get a warranty from apple/dell and they honor it and they can because they have built up the resources, supply chain and profit to do so. Also note even with Dell if you order from newegg or a reseller their warranty or response to issues is much more complicated/not as good. So it clearly is not right that they don't pay for shipping both ways and send another monitor, they might just not have the resources to pay for it and stay in business or they charge $800 for the monitor and we are all back at square one. No savings A- panel, i'll take the dell please.

I hate hearing of those that had bad experiences with one of these monitors and I hope it gets resolved. It can not be said enough = we are dealing with a re-seller that sells rejected LG panels in Korea off of Ebay. I am shocked it goes as well as it does to be honest.

Hopefully this helps people who are thinking about ordering this product. it's risky.

good luck out there and you stay classy San Diego.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> I feel like i should bring up what others have brought up in the past here for new potential buyers: We know that these monitors are the rejects from the LG factory which is fact. There is risk in ordering one of these monitors. I love mine, no dead pixels and slight blacklight bleed top left. That being said, I ordered from AW, non pixel perfect, and so far so good. So again we can all agree the risk involved but the reward is 1440p led panel that cost around $400 or less. I was going to order a dell 27 inch at $800+, but I cut my cost in half and took the risk. knowing that if something went bad I might have to pay more to get it resolved. I am a sucker for a deal.
> Furthermore most of the sellers say right on their website exactly what it is you are ordering. it is expensive to ship something from korea, thus they cover the cost in the price of the monitor and what is left is their profit. (Mr. Obvious I know) I think i have read on other forums that if you were in korea you can buy one for $250 on the street, you order 1000 of them it is like $100 a piece. So we can all agree, no one is really getting rich fast by selling these monitors. some profit yes, but not like apple profit at $1000+ per monitor or dell at $800 per monitor, but with that said, when you pay $1000 you get a warranty from apple/dell and they honor it and they can because they have built up the resources, supply chain and profit to do so. Also note even with Dell if you order from newegg or a reseller their warranty or response to issues is much more complicated/not as good. So it clearly is not right that they don't pay for shipping both ways and send another monitor, they might just not have the resources to pay for it and stay in business or they charge $800 for the monitor and we are all back at square one. No savings A- panel, i'll take the dell please.
> I hate hearing of those that had bad experiences with one of these monitors and I hope it gets resolved. It can not be said enough = we are dealing with a re-seller that sells rejected LG panels in Korea off of Ebay. I am shocked it goes as well as it does to be honest.
> Hopefully this helps people who are thinking about ordering this product. it's risky.
> good luck out there and you stay classy San Diego.


Saying the panels are rejected by the LG factory is equivalent to saying that the Nvidia GTX 660Ti is a rejected product by the company after they have selected the GTX 680 die.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> I feel like i should bring up what others have brought up in the past here for new potential buyers: We know that these monitors are the rejects from the LG factory which is fact. There is risk in ordering one of these monitors. I love mine, no dead pixels and slight blacklight bleed top left. That being said, I ordered from AW, non pixel perfect, and so far so good. So again we can all agree the risk involved but the reward is 1440p led panel that cost around $400 or less. I was going to order a dell 27 inch at $800+, but I cut my cost in half and took the risk. knowing that if something went bad I might have to pay more to get it resolved. I am a sucker for a deal.
> Furthermore most of the sellers say right on their website exactly what it is you are ordering. it is expensive to ship something from korea, thus they cover the cost in the price of the monitor and what is left is their profit. (Mr. Obvious I know) I think i have read on other forums that if you were in korea you can buy one for $250 on the street, you order 1000 of them it is like $100 a piece. So we can all agree, no one is really getting rich fast by selling these monitors. some profit yes, but not like apple profit at $1000+ per monitor or dell at $800 per monitor, but with that said, when you pay $1000 you get a warranty from apple/dell and they honor it and they can because they have built up the resources, supply chain and profit to do so. Also note even with Dell if you order from newegg or a reseller their warranty or response to issues is much more complicated/not as good. So it clearly is not right that they don't pay for shipping both ways and send another monitor, they might just not have the resources to pay for it and stay in business or they charge $800 for the monitor and we are all back at square one. No savings A- panel, i'll take the dell please.
> I hate hearing of those that had bad experiences with one of these monitors and I hope it gets resolved. It can not be said enough = we are dealing with a re-seller that sells rejected LG panels in Korea off of Ebay. I am shocked it goes as well as it does to be honest.
> Hopefully this helps people who are thinking about ordering this product. it's risky.
> good luck out there and you stay classy San Diego.


Based on polls of buyers, I'd have to say the rate of malfunction is the same as any other monitors.


----------



## Pandasaurus

Just ordered a Crossover 27Q LED-P from ta_planet! So excited! Will be here between Sept. 10-13. Will post videos and pics of it when it arrives.


----------



## matisto27

hey sorry to double post his but could someone pls answer my 2 questions i have about this screen thanks

Hey i'm wondering if i have my 27Q LED-P screen i see there is a 110-220 volt adapter included is this alright for europe ?
So i can just insert this in my electricity here ? you don't need to change anything ?

Also can someone tell me if there is always a DVI-D dual link included with the screen?
greets
Matis


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> hey sorry to double post his but could someone pls answer my 2 questions i have about this screen thanks
> Hey i'm wondering if i have my 27Q LED-P screen i see there is a 110-220 volt adapter included is this alright for europe ?
> So i can just insert this in my electricity here ? you don't need to change anything ?
> Also can someone tell me if there is always a DVI-D dual link included with the screen?
> greets
> Matis


Yes to the DVI-D. For the power question, I don't live there so I don't know. I believe BCC has a 'universal power adapter' for free with purchase.

Cheers.


----------



## Divineshadowx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> I feel like i should bring up what others have brought up in the past here for new potential buyers: We know that these monitors are the rejects from the LG factory which is fact. There is risk in ordering one of these monitors. I love mine, no dead pixels and slight blacklight bleed top left. That being said, I ordered from AW, non pixel perfect, and so far so good. So again we can all agree the risk involved but the reward is 1440p led panel that cost around $400 or less. I was going to order a dell 27 inch at $800+, but I cut my cost in half and took the risk. knowing that if something went bad I might have to pay more to get it resolved. I am a sucker for a deal.
> Furthermore most of the sellers say right on their website exactly what it is you are ordering. it is expensive to ship something from korea, thus they cover the cost in the price of the monitor and what is left is their profit. (Mr. Obvious I know) I think i have read on other forums that if you were in korea you can buy one for $250 on the street, you order 1000 of them it is like $100 a piece. So we can all agree, no one is really getting rich fast by selling these monitors. some profit yes, but not like apple profit at $1000+ per monitor or dell at $800 per monitor, but with that said, when you pay $1000 you get a warranty from apple/dell and they honor it and they can because they have built up the resources, supply chain and profit to do so. Also note even with Dell if you order from newegg or a reseller their warranty or response to issues is much more complicated/not as good. So it clearly is not right that they don't pay for shipping both ways and send another monitor, they might just not have the resources to pay for it and stay in business or they charge $800 for the monitor and we are all back at square one. No savings A- panel, i'll take the dell please.
> I hate hearing of those that had bad experiences with one of these monitors and I hope it gets resolved. It can not be said enough = we are dealing with a re-seller that sells rejected LG panels in Korea off of Ebay. I am shocked it goes as well as it does to be honest.
> Hopefully this helps people who are thinking about ordering this product. it's risky.
> good luck out there and you stay classy San Diego.


What exactly does apple make that is good quality for the money you get? Oh ya, absolutely nothing. And the dell is for professionals, mainstream content is 72-73% color gamut, the over 100% on the dell will make it look inaccurate.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divineshadowx*
> 
> What exactly does apple make that is good quality for the money you get? Oh ya, absolutely nothing. And the dell is for professionals, mainstream content is 72-73% color gamut, the over 100% on the dell will make it look inaccurate.


I agree except for the Apple part. I don't think their MP3 players and phones are THAT bad. But computer-wise, totally.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajflick42*
> 
> I feel like i should bring up what others have brought up in the past here for new potential buyers: We know that these monitors are the rejects from the LG factory which is fact. There is risk in ordering one of these monitors. I love mine, no dead pixels and slight blacklight bleed top left. That being said, I ordered from AW, non pixel perfect, and so far so good. So again we can all agree the risk involved but the reward is 1440p led panel that cost around $400 or less. I was going to order a dell 27 inch at $800+, but I cut my cost in half and took the risk. knowing that if something went bad I might have to pay more to get it resolved. I am a sucker for a deal.
> Furthermore most of the sellers say right on their website exactly what it is you are ordering. it is expensive to ship something from korea, thus they cover the cost in the price of the monitor and what is left is their profit. (Mr. Obvious I know) I think i have read on other forums that if you were in korea you can buy one for $250 on the street, you order 1000 of them it is like $100 a piece. So we can all agree, no one is really getting rich fast by selling these monitors. some profit yes, but not like apple profit at $1000+ per monitor or dell at $800 per monitor, but with that said, when you pay $1000 you get a warranty from apple/dell and they honor it and they can because they have built up the resources, supply chain and profit to do so. Also note even with Dell if you order from newegg or a reseller their warranty or response to issues is much more complicated/not as good. So it clearly is not right that they don't pay for shipping both ways and send another monitor, they might just not have the resources to pay for it and stay in business or they charge $800 for the monitor and we are all back at square one. No savings A- panel, i'll take the dell please.
> I hate hearing of those that had bad experiences with one of these monitors and I hope it gets resolved. It can not be said enough = we are dealing with a re-seller that sells rejected LG panels in Korea off of Ebay. I am shocked it goes as well as it does to be honest.
> Hopefully this helps people who are thinking about ordering this product. it's risky.
> good luck out there and you stay classy San Diego.


Not all sellers sell A-, some sell A. I got 3 as proof.


----------



## BoredErica

People are acting like these are unstable crap monitors being shipped from Siberia. It's not that bad. Check the polls for the malfunction rate, then compare to ratings on Newegg. I find myself unable to justify extra $400+ for any other type of monitor. What's wrong from monitors from Korea? Samsung is from Korea.

There's a reason why this forum totals over 10,000 posts for these types of monitors. They are *awesome*.


----------



## Divineshadowx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I agree except for the Apple part. I don't think their MP3 players and phones are THAT bad. But computer-wise, totally.


They are not bad but they also are not the best, there has always been a better phone. Galaxy s3 for example right now. IOs is buggy, restrictive, itunes doesnt even let you keep your music, 256kbps garbage. And besides all that, a company that sues others for copying them and slows down the advancement of technology seems unattractive to me. Apple imo is for those who care about looks rather than performance, like beats and bose, which apple advertises, and I doubt they do it for money. The korean monitors are not the best, but they are for the value per dollar. There isn't much of a market for 1440/1600p displays, so those who want to buy 1k samsung and other brand monitors are welcome to. The dell as i stated is for pro's, not the average gamer/media person. And for those who bought apple cinema displays, well hope you like it because you payed $600 extra for less colors, and 6ms more response time. And I bought the pixel perfect edition so that is out of the question.


----------



## Dehatitated

This is not about the monitor, sorry if it is in the thread somewhere but I can't read the whole thing, near the start of the thread you should tell people how to make the club signature. I figured it out because I know how to make a link because of the gtx 670 club. You put this in your signature.

Code:



Code:


:clock: [B][URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496]CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P & 27M LED Monitor Club[/URL][/B] :clock:


----------



## ieya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> Hey i'm wondering if i have my 27Q LED-P screen i see there is a 110-220 volt adapter included is this alright for europe ?
> So i can just insert this in my electricity here ? you don't need to change anything ?


I'm in the UK, which runs with the same sort of voltage (but different plugs) as mainland Europe - all I did was substitute an ordinary "kettle flex" (mains plug at one end, standard power connector at the other, looks something like this). They did supply an adapter to convert from the Korean power plug to a UK one, I just felt it was neater to use a plain cable as I had a spare anyway. PSU works fine on our European volts, anyway.


----------



## derfer

What's a quality psu to buy for these monitors? Something obviously better than stock.


----------



## jmzhwng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> What's a quality psu to buy for these monitors? Something obviously better than stock.


So far, it seems that replacement bricks are made in China.
Not sure if they are any better. I guess it's a preference of Made in Korea or Made in China.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> What's a quality psu to buy for these monitors? Something obviously better than stock.


I said this couple of pages back
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> I would say so. Hit up your seller for a replacement or buy a replacement off ebay. Search on ebay EFL-2202W. I bought a backup from cbk_electronics_usa


----------



## matisto27

Hey with that power adapter if i do maybe something wrong with it and i stick it in here in my electricity it's not that i will damage my screen with it ?
I don't know if i must replace something cable or something don't understand
it's this link http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320878438026&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
if someone can tell me i need to replace something and tell me what with what and maybe picture of it also


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> Hey with that power adapter if i do maybe something wrong with it and i stick it in here in my electricity it's not that i will damage my screen with it ?
> I don't know if i must replace something cable or something don't understand
> it's this link http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320878438026&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
> if someone can tell me i need to replace something and tell me what with what and maybe picture of it also


I read this twice and I still don't know what you are talking about. Also, we're not supposed to list Ebay links here.


----------



## Art Vanelay

I just ordered myself one of the standard models for $340 off of Ebay. I'll get some pictures when it arrives.

Anyone know what the rate of dead pixels or backlight issues is on theses? Are dead pixels actually noticeable on these?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> I just ordered myself one of the standard models for $340 off of Ebay. I'll get some pictures when it arrives.
> Anyone know what the rate of dead pixels or backlight issues is on theses? Are dead pixels actually noticeable on these?


If there are 2560 x 1440 pixels on a monitor, how noticeable would a dead pixel be? Not very.


----------



## Ftruck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> If there are 2560 x 1440 pixels on a monitor, how noticeable would a dead pixel be? Not very.


Until you see it for the first time. Then after that it's going to be noticeable as hell.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ftruck*
> 
> Until you see it for the first time. Then after that it's going to be noticeable as hell.


Even still. When I had a 27" 1920 x 1080, that had one dead pixel, it was only noticeably on light gray or white backgrounds. If I was watching a movie, or playng a game, it would be almost impossible to see, even though I knew where it was. It's almost as if the pixels around it were able to fill in the gap a bit with the light they emitted. I can't think of a single pixel out of 3.7 million being noticeable often. ;]


----------



## Art Vanelay

Does the manufacturer of these actually cover products sold on ebay under their warranty?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Does the manufacturer of these actually cover products sold on ebay under their warranty?


No, the individual seller does. If your panel is defective, or has some other issue that requires warranty replacement/service, you work it out with the seller.
After they get your defective panel back, they themselves have to work it out with the manufacturer.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> No, the individual seller does. If your panel is defective, or has some other issue that requires warranty replacement/service, you work it out with the seller.
> After they get your defective panel back, they themselves have to work it out with the manufacturer.


What would Squaretrade do in that situation? Shipping to Korea is expensive; having to RMA one to Korea would suck.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> What would Squaretrade do in that situation? Shipping to Korea is expensive; having to RMA one to Korea would suck.


You'd have to rumage through the terms and conditions for that.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> No, the individual seller does. If your panel is defective, or has some other issue that requires warranty replacement/service, you work it out with the seller.
> After they get your defective panel back, they themselves have to work it out with the manufacturer.
> 
> 
> 
> What would Squaretrade do in that situation? Shipping to Korea is expensive; having to RMA one to Korea would suck.
Click to expand...

From what I have heard, SquareTrade would simply reimburse you for the full purchase price. You would ship the monitor to SquareTrade, and when they realize that there's no way they're going to fix it themselves, they have no choice but to refund you. I asked SquareTrade if they specifically cover these monitors from eBay and they said yes. I kept their response e-mail saved in case they ever try to pull something off if my Crossover breaks.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> From what I have heard, SquareTrade would simply reimburse you for the full purchase price. You would ship the monitor to SquareTrade, and when they realize that there's no way they're going to fix it themselves, they have no choice but to refund you. I asked SquareTrade if they specifically cover these monitors from eBay and they said yes. I kept their response e-mail saved in case they ever try to pull something off if my Crossover breaks.


correct


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> From what I have heard, SquareTrade would simply reimburse you for the full purchase price. You would ship the monitor to SquareTrade, and when they realize that there's no way they're going to fix it themselves, they have no choice but to refund you. I asked SquareTrade if they specifically cover these monitors from eBay and they said yes. I kept their response e-mail saved in case they ever try to pull something off if my Crossover breaks.


On Squaretrade's website it says this:
Quote:


> First, we'll locate the manufacturer's contact information to help you file a claim.
> If the manufacturer replaces or repairs your item, we'll cover the repaired or replaced item.
> If the manufacturer refuses to honor their warranty because they consider your item purchased from an unauthorized retailer, we'll still cover you.


Since the manufacturer won't honor warranties for items purchased on Ebay, do you think Squaretrade would tell me to ship to the seller or just give me money?


----------



## brununbutu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechaCthulhu*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this yellowing is normal for IPS?
> 
> 
> I have the same problem on mine. I purchased my monitor from BCC. I have only one stuck green pixel which does not bother me. The yellowing is certainly more visible than one or two pixel failures. I checked an iMac 27 in a local store : there wasn't any yellowing. On the other hand, I had the impression the Mac screen was not as smooth: I could see more of the pixel structure. The mac monitor has more reflections because of the front glass.
> 
> BCC is supposed to check the monitor, but the box had apparently no signs that it was opened before.
> 
> I tried two video cards: Nvidia 8600GT (my PC could not boot) and Radeon 7750 (I can see the BIOS screen).
> 
> This monitor is gorgeous. The text is very crisp (I am using Kubuntu and turned off all this font antialias crap). Colors are very vivid. The white is not agressive. I don't need an OSD. I am using it mainly for programming. The monitor is a pleasure to work with. Unfortunately the black level is not low. IMO, this is not a good monitor for watching movies with dark scenes.
> 
> Bruno


----------



## brununbutu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechaCthulhu*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this yellowing is normal for IPS?


I have the same problem on mine. I purchased my monitor from BCC. I have only one stuck green pixel which does not bother me. The yellowing is certainly more visible than one or two pixel failures. I checked an iMac 27 in a local store : there wasn't any yellowing. On the other hand, I had the impression the Mac screen was not as smooth: I could see more of the pixel structure.

BCC is supposed to check the monitor, but the box had apparently no signs that it was opened before.

I tried two video cards: Nvidia 8600GT (my PC could not boot) and Radeon 7750 (I can see the BIOS screen).

This monitor is gorgeous. The text is very crisp (I am using Kubuntu and turned off all this font antialias crap). Colors are very vivid. The white is not agressive. I don't need an OSD. I am using it mainly for programming. The monitor is a pleasure to work with. Unfortunately the black level is not low. This is not a good monitor for watching movies with dark scenes.

Bruno


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Since the manufacturer won't honor warranties for items purchased on Ebay, do you think Squaretrade would tell me to ship to the seller or just give me money?


They could do one of three things:

1. Tell you to ship it to the seller.

2. Tell you to ship it to one of their approved diagnostics workshops.

3. Refund you the money (this could result in your sending the item to one of their workshops to verify it is not economical to fix it)

In any of the three instances Square Trade send you a prepaid box to ship the item in.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> They could do one of three things:
> 1. Tell you to ship it to the seller.
> 2. Tell you to ship it to one of their approved diagnostics workshops.
> 3. Refund you the money (this could result in your sending the item to one of their workshops to verify it is not economical to fix it)
> In any of the three instances Square Trade send you a prepaid box to ship the item in.


Well, that's good; the warranty is actually a third the cost of shipping to Korea.


----------



## IcedEarth

Just read it, they don't provide the box they just provide the shipping label. However since you already have the monitor box (in my most cases, some people have documented receiving a Catleap without the box) then that shouldn't be a problem.

In my country, the Crossover (£250) plus the Squaretraede 3 year warranty with accidental damage cover (£50) is still cheaper than its next competitor, which is the Dell U2711 (£530). Nearly half the price in fact, there really is no risk in buying these monitors and even with the warranty it is such a good deal.


----------



## Grogan5000

My Crossover LED-P from Green-Sum arrived after 15 days due to his supplier having a bad run of defective screens.

Good service from Green-Sum and the screen is superb, better than the Catleap I bought from him a few months before as it has no real bottom-third yellowy tint, although the Catleap wasnt noticeable to me outside a solid background.
It has a Welltronics power adapter if thats a good thing or not. DL-DVI cable is very thick.

White is white and the Catleap D6500K ICC profile in Catleap Club thread is almost perfect to my eye. Better than it was for my Catleap.
The only Crossover profile I found was terrible, I think this may be one of the new Crossovers and a different colour setup to old.

I have no calibration hardware myself.

Stand is good and chassis seems well built, quite heavy being metal. The logo and base are cheap looking but otherwise its great value.
Poor old Dell U2412 and U2311 are a bit average looking after this!

No bad pixels, uniformity is good and no real backlight leakage (best Ive seen) . Very pleased, cant see how this screen could look better.

*Edit:*
Just checked again in dark and yes still slight yellow tinge in bottom third but hard to see, less than for my Catleap. Not noticeable otherwise IMO.
Also is something stuck behind screen near middle, but I couldnt even see it first time on a pure background using pixel tester program.

So if this is all they are "failing" these LG panels on then buy em up!


----------



## newchemicals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grogan5000*
> 
> My Crossover LED-P from Green-Sum arrived after 15 days due to his supplier having a bad run of defective screens.
> 
> Good service from Green-Sum and the screen is superb, better than the Catleap I bought from him a few months before as it has no real bottom-third yellowy tint, although the Catleap wasnt noticeable to me outside a solid background.
> It has a Welltronics power adapter if thats a good thing or not. DL-DVI cable is very thick.
> 
> White is white and the Catleap D6500K ICC profile in Catleap Club thread is almost perfect to my eye. Better than it was for my Catleap.
> The only Crossover profile I found was terrible, I think this may be one of the new Crossovers and a different colour setup to old.
> 
> I have no calibration hardware myself.
> 
> Stand is good and chassis seems well built, quite heavy being metal. The logo and base are cheap looking but otherwise its great value.
> Poor old Dell U2412 and U2311 are a bit average looking after this!
> 
> No bad pixels, uniformity is good and no real backlight leakage (best Ive seen) . Very pleased, cant see how this screen could look better.
> 
> *Edit:*
> Just checked again in dark and yes still slight yellow tinge in bottom third but hard to see, less than for my Catleap. Not noticeable otherwise IMO.
> Also is something stuck behind screen near middle, but I couldnt even see it first time on a pure background using pixel tester program.
> 
> So if this is all they are "failing" these LG panels on then buy em up!


Its better it takes a little longer than having to hassle with a return.


----------



## C70T5

I want to buy a new monitor but not from the infamous AccessoriesWhole anymore after their debacle of a returns service. Is ta_planet any good?


----------



## Tephnos

ta_planet, BCC, green_sum and redcap are good.

Personally, I may be going with redcap, just currently working out something with him ( I appreciate how he will go the extra mile and even supplied someone a new PCB when theirs had blown instead of having to ship the monitor back)


----------



## tehpsyc

I purchased the 27Q about a month ago and it was perfect for a while. Yesterday I started noticing some mild flickering of the screen, very faint but noticeable if you paid close attention. Today, the flickering is near constant and glaringly obvious and the monitor goes completely black quite frequently (at least once every 15 minutes) requiring several power cycles to restore the picture. I contacted red-cap yesterday when it was doing the minor flickering and he seemed hesitant to start the return process, but now that it has progressed I'm hoping he'll take it back. I'll let you all know how it turns out, but just something to be aware of considering this monitor was perfectly fine for almost a month. I'm very disappointed. Hoping to do an exchange.


----------



## MisterA

I bought my Crossover from dream-seller and I have issues with the PCB.
I contacted DS but they were not able to help me and send a replacement PCB.

Damn, I should have bought my monitor from another reseller it seems.

I don't think redcap will be willing to sell me a separate PCB...?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I want to buy a new monitor but not from the infamous AccessoriesWhole anymore after their debacle of a returns service. Is ta_planet any good?


pssh whatever.


----------



## spo0linup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> ta_planet, BCC, green_sum and redcap are good.
> Personally, I may be going with redcap, just currently working out something with him ( I appreciate how he will go the extra mile and even supplied someone a new PCB when theirs had blown instead of having to ship the monitor back)


As far as I've gathered, there have been some serious issues regarding supply as of the beginning of September. Every seller claims to be seeing a large amount of "defective panels" resulting in shipping delays. Personally, I would forget everything you've learned about each seller since March, and start paying attention to what people are reporting since the price increase.

As someone who has received a DOA panel and had to deal with the pain of.the return process, I'm extremely hesitant to purchase another one at these inflated prices. And the more stories I read about monitors giving out over time, the more inclined I become to follow my better judgment.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Got my Crossover from dream-seller this morning. Bought the normal non-perfect listing and it is flawless. Not a single dead pixel after a VERY close look over all solid color backgrounds. I can't bring myself to taking out my T2i for photos right now, I'll take care of that later. Dude is definitely a reliable seller. Every seller will have a few customers that had a bad experience. I was worried about the couple of negative remarks on his feedback, but figured they were simply bad eggs out of the batch.


----------



## barvybe

Hi - first post here. Been following and reading for a bit - especially about the Korean IPS monitors.
Was about to pull the trigger on a purchase from accessorieswhole (slightly less $'s right now than bigclothcraft) but had a question for the forum.

Seems the monitor ships with Type F plug. He includes a Type A adaptor for here in the USA. Wondering if anyone else is running this way and whether its good / bad / indifferent to the electronics?

Thanks!
Pete


----------



## IcedEarth

Just replace it with a standard USA kettle lead and it will work absolutely fine.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Hi - first post here. Been following and reading for a bit - especially about the Korean IPS monitors.
> Was about to pull the trigger on a purchase from accessorieswhole (slightly less $'s right now than bigclothcraft) but had a question for the forum.
> 
> Seems the monitor ships with Type F plug. He includes a Type A adaptor for here in the USA. Wondering if anyone else is running this way and whether its good / bad / indifferent to the electronics?
> 
> Thanks!
> Pete


It is totally fine. I was worried because he did include the Korean type plug, but the adapter lets you plug in the typical normal monitor power cable (just like your computer's PSU power cable). Note that he doesn't include the power cable, just the adapter.


----------



## vsshokeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I want to buy a new monitor but not from the infamous AccessoriesWhole anymore after their debacle of a returns service. Is ta_planet any good?


I bought from BCC
Nice monitor
Just that the frame of the monitor was damaged due to rough handling
Packing from BCC could be better as some people live in remote places and DHL people dont care much
so far no dead pixels noticed


----------



## vsshokeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> It is totally fine. I was worried because he did include the Korean type plug, but the adapter lets you plug in the typical normal monitor power cable (just like your computer's PSU power cable). Note that he doesn't include the power cable, just the adapter.


AW is not so good try BCC
I got mine from him today
Prompt delivery

Packing could be better, but lots of people have this complaint from all over the places

Ask him to pack well

By the way think twice before buying korean monitor

It is ok for monitor and destop work but bad for watching movies

Ok for gomes, not so good

If u can afford buy Apple or HP


----------



## IcedEarth

I've watched movies and played games. It's absolutely awesome on my Crossover...


----------



## vsshokeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> I've watched movies and played games. It's absolutely awesome on my Crossover...


In my crossover, when playing movies, the moving subjects leave a trail behind and this increases with increase in resolution of the monitor that i set

Also when the monitor is set at native or highest resolution, the movie gets highly pixelated and has lots of traces when something in the movie

I dont know why but it looks bad at high resolution

Desktop is amazingly sharp bright and crisp with amazing colors but movies i wud say is really bad

I have seen this in all korean TV as well as monitors

I am sure of this drawback in korean TV and monitors this is where hardware / technology of TN panel beats the IPS or maybe it is just a drawback of korean monitors


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsshokeen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> It is totally fine. I was worried because he did include the Korean type plug, but the adapter lets you plug in the typical normal monitor power cable (just like your computer's PSU power cable). Note that he doesn't include the power cable, just the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> AW is not so good try BCC
> I got mine from him today
> Prompt delivery
> 
> Packing could be better, but lots of people have this complaint from all over the places
> 
> Ask him to pack well
> 
> By the way think twice before buying korean monitor
> 
> It is ok for monitor and destop work but bad for watching movies
> 
> Ok for gomes, not so good
> 
> If u can afford buy Apple or HP
Click to expand...

You may have misquoted the wrong person, but: I already got my Crossover, arrived just this morning from dream-seller


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsshokeen*
> 
> In my crossover, when playing movies, the moving subjects leave a trail behind and this increases with increase in resolution of the monitor that i set
> Also when the monitor is set at native or highest resolution, the movie gets highly pixelated and has lots of traces when something in the movie
> I dont know why but it looks bad at high resolution
> Desktop is amazingly sharp bright and crisp with amazing colors but movies i wud say is really bad
> I have seen this in all korean TV as well as monitors
> I am sure of this drawback in korean TV and monitors this is where hardware / technology of TN panel beats the IPS or maybe it is just a drawback of korean monitors


What video card are you running it on? Some of the symptoms you've described seem more relevant to the codec decompression or video card output if you ask me.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Hey all,

Been following this thread for the past 10 pages or so. Ordered a crossover from BCC about 2 weeks ago, it shipped promptly but got snatched up by customs in Canada (Hamilton port of entry) requesting proper value, which DHL contacted me about and needed me to sign some forms, etc.

After some research I wanted to self-clear it, and I read that you could go to Pearson (much closer to me) which has a CBSA office. I called them before I went and they said no, you have to go to the port of entry, which is Hamilton (about a 2h drive for me), so I e-mailed the forms back to DHL who I will pay the extra $10 or so to act as my broker. I did that Sunday night. So far, nothing yet. I'm actually waiting on a new computer I bought parts for from ncix, so I'm not too in a rush of getting the monitor, need the computer to power it first.

BCC was helpful throughout, but it's been slow. He basically sends back 1 reply a night, then I read it during day (time difference), and it continues.

I'll keep you posted to what happens and take some pics/run some tests when the monitor comes.


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> It is totally fine. I was worried because he did include the Korean type plug, but the adapter lets you plug in the typical normal monitor power cable (just like your computer's PSU power cable). Note that he doesn't include the power cable, just the adapter.


Thanks for the quick response!
To be sure I understand, are you just saying that I could get something like (eBay search for "EFL-2202W")?
Or that you just use the type A adaptor right to the wall and plug the monitor into it?

- P


----------



## barvybe

Yes i think he meant to quote me.

Why the comment that AW is not so good?
And I guess Stealth just used Dream Seller.

How much does it really matter?
AW has the best eBay rating overall - is something recent going on that has people spooked away from him?

- P


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> It is totally fine. I was worried because he did include the Korean type plug, but the adapter lets you plug in the typical normal monitor power cable (just like your computer's PSU power cable). Note that he doesn't include the power cable, just the adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the quick response!
> To be sure I understand, are you just saying that I could get something like (eBay search for "EFL-2202W")?
> Or that you just use the type A adaptor right to the wall and plug the monitor into it?
> 
> - P
Click to expand...

No problem.

You don't need to buy that, at least not with dream-seller. He included the adapter needed for US power sockets, and that one seems to have a different plug, so I wouldn't get it. You want one that has a kettle plug like this. What you do need of your own is the power cable that connects between THAT adapter and your US power socket. The only reason a few people here suggested buying that is if you wanted a backup in case the one provided with your monitor dies on you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Been following this thread for the past 10 pages or so. Ordered a crossover from BCC about 2 weeks ago, it shipped promptly but got snatched up by customs in Canada (Hamilton port of entry) requesting proper value, which DHL contacted me about and needed me to sign some forms, etc.
> 
> After some research I wanted to self-clear it, and I read that you could go to Pearson (much closer to me) which has a CBSA office. I called them before I went and they said no, you have to go to the port of entry, which is Hamilton (about a 2h drive for me), so I e-mailed the forms back to DHL who I will pay the extra $10 or so to act as my broker. I did that Sunday night. So far, nothing yet. I'm actually waiting on a new computer I bought parts for from ncix, so I'm not too in a rush of getting the monitor, need the computer to power it first.
> 
> BCC was helpful throughout, but it's been slow. He basically sends back 1 reply a night, then I read it during day (time difference), and it continues.
> 
> I'll keep you posted to what happens and take some pics/run some tests when the monitor comes.


Dream-seller almost shipped my monitor out with DHL and even gave me a tracking number, but he instead ended up shipping with Fedex. Maybe DHL is having issues like those, but it didn't happen to me. My package landed in Alaska and I did see Fedex tracking saying it was passing customs.


----------



## kuyamark

I just ordered my Q27 led-p from dhsummer anyone eve deal with him? I got the monitor for $330 shipped and I am looking forward to getting this up and running!


----------



## Takao

Ok guys. I just setup my [Pixel Perfect] CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 27" purchased from dreamseller on ebay and I found this gem below



It only shows up when the screen is dark and is not noticeable with lighter colors. Is this something that would go away with time or should I return this ASAP?

Thanks for any assistance


----------



## Descadent

PEOPLE there is NOTHING wrong with Acessoriesswhole. I have 3 from them and they are flawless and they even overnighted a powersupply that died from Korea to the U.S.

quit saying they are bad. They have the best feedback and are the only Ebay Top Sellers of the Korean monitors

stop spreading misinformation and buy from who ever you feel comfortable with, but if top seller status and the best feedback makes you think they are bad... i don't know what to think of you.


----------



## swish919

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> PEOPLE there is NOTHING wrong with Acessoriesswhole. I have 3 from them and they are flawless and they even overnighted a powersupply that died from Korea to the U.S.
> quit saying they are bad. They have the best feedback and are the only Ebay Top Sellers of the Korean monitors
> stop spreading misinformation and buy from who ever you feel comfortable with, but if top seller status and the best feedback makes you think they are bad... i don't know what to think of you.


I got mine from AW and am very happy... contemplating on getting another after I sold off my U2410.


----------



## Divineshadowx

I got my Crossover27q led-p yesterday from dream-seller. I payed a 100 bucks more for the pixel perfect, and I seem to have got it. The metal on the bottom left is bent a little though, I think i can fix it with a hammer, prob fed ex's fault though, as the box was also somewhat damaged. Other than that, color is a little bland, anyone know the best profile?


----------



## Pandasaurus

Just received my Crossover 27Q LED-P from ta_planet, and I have to say, IT'S PERFECT!!! I ordered the non-pixel perfect one, but got a perfect one! Little back-light bleed on bottom right, but I don't care. Will post pics and an unboxing video in a few minutes. Really happy with my purchase. By the way, I ordered it last Thurday (9/6/12) and it was in the US by Friday afternoon (9/7/12) and received it today (9/11/12) from Fedex.


----------



## Descadent

BF3 Armored Kill released today @7680x1440 w/ 3 crossovers


----------



## ieya

Yep, just to chuck in some more reassurance, I got mine from Accessorieswhole - FedEx tracking number was sent quickly, it arrived within a few days, no hassle, no problems, just an amazing monitor at a great price.

As has been noted, their feedback on ebay is excellent, you don't get that by being completely pants... and I can't imagine returns would be fun with _any_ seller given the distance Korea is from us.


----------



## kevosuki

I just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P from BCC. I have a question for you Crossover owners. If you had the yellow tint on your screen, does it eventually go away after usage?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

I was finally able to check for backlight bleed now that it is dark. I have none! I can't even see any infamous IPS glow.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> No problem.
> You don't need to buy that, at least not with dream-seller. He included the adapter needed for US power sockets,
> Dream-seller almost shipped my monitor out with DHL and even gave me a tracking number, but he instead ended up shipping with Fedex. Maybe DHL is having issues like those, but it didn't happen to me. My package landed in Alaska and I did see Fedex tracking saying it was passing customs.


I ordered mine from Dream-seller and my Crossover just arrive in Alaska he used Fedex instead of DHL. Thank God. it may arrive here between 13 or 17 of this month.







hope to have no dead pixel or a gem in my panel.


----------



## amazing235

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I want to buy a new monitor but not from the infamous AccessoriesWhole anymore after their debacle of a returns service. Is ta_planet any good?


Speaking of the warranty policy on AW,
The full responsibility from seller warranty within 30 days from buyer's purchased date.
After the 30 days, AW provides repair service and I believe they support partial shipping charge for buyer or new monitor as a replacement instead of getting repaired.

C70T5 purchased 27Q LED-P standard monitor when AW guaranteed for up to 5 dead/stuck/sub pixels.
you were lucky to receive the pixel perfect monitor among standard monitors that AW sell. (Which happens very frequently and now they revised their guarantee up to 3 defective pixels).

I believe AW offered C70T5 for a new monitor as replacement instead of just getting repaired from manufactuerer for reduce buyer's unhappiness.
You've requested for AW to send pixel perfect monitor as replacement and it was rejected
due to their policy of replacement shall be done as the original purchased.

Seller cannot accept/agree on all terms/demands that buyer requests,
such as offering replacement at lower than half a price from its original price.
It seems like buyer assuming that seller gets lots of profit out from selling monitors/ other goods, But it really doesn't if you consider about its international expedited shipping service provided for free.
and sellers take full responsibility of taking it back and forth at their charge, deduct the shipping charge from sales price, than you will be easily figure it out that sellers do not get any profits from it.
I do not mean that buyers/potential buyers should be thoughtful or be gracious about it but requesting lower than half of the price for replacement seems too much to take. (If you used your monitor over 3 months).

It is very pity to read all threads and sorry if you are very unhappy with AW's customer service.
But, the policy is the policy that has to be followed.

If you would like to speak and let others to know AW is providing unfair service,
then, you should've speak of whole truth.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Speaking of the warranty policy on AW,
> The full responsibility from seller warranty within 30 days from buyer's purchased date.
> After the 30 days, AW provides repair service and I believe they support partial shipping charge for buyer or new monitor as a replacement instead of getting repaired.
> C70T5 purchased 27Q LED-P standard monitor when AW guaranteed for up to 5 dead/stuck/sub pixels.
> you were lucky to receive the pixel perfect monitor among standard monitors that AW sell. (Which happens very frequently and now they revised their guarantee up to 3 defective pixels).
> I believe AW offered C70T5 for a new monitor as replacement instead of just getting repaired from manufactuerer for reduce buyer's unhappiness.
> You've requested for AW to send pixel perfect monitor as replacement and it was rejected
> due to their policy of replacement shall be done as the original purchased.
> Seller cannot accept/agree on all terms/demands that buyer requests,
> such as offering replacement at lower than half a price from its original price.
> It seems like buyer assuming that seller gets lots of profit out from selling monitors/ other goods, But it really doesn't if you consider about its international expedited shipping service provided for free.
> and sellers take full responsibility of taking it back and forth at their charge, deduct the shipping charge from sales price, than you will be easily figure it out that sellers do not get any profits from it.
> I do not mean that buyers/potential buyers should be thoughtful or be gracious about it but requesting lower than half of the price for replacement seems too much to take. (If you used your monitor over 3 months).
> It is very pity to read all threads and sorry if you are very unhappy with AW's customer service.
> But, the policy is the policy that has to be followed.
> If you would like to speak and let others to know AW is providing unfair service,
> then, you should've speak of whole truth.


We appear to have some of the Ebay sellers doing stealth marketing here. I have often wondered about this possibility.

Anyone else notice a pattern?


----------



## amazing235

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> We appear to have some of the Ebay sellers doing stealth marketing here. I have often wondered about this possibility.
> Anyone else notice a pattern?


I sincerely apologize if it may upset you in anyways.
I blew myself up and stood up in public because it is getting so ridiculous to just read through and monitor complains/rumors.
I made a huge decision to step out and speak up to defense, otherwise, as a customer service director of AW, unbearably hurt to just sit and watch.
at first, yes, I created the ID to do some promotions and marketing usage and then, I noticed that it was not necessary to do it anymore since AW has great buyers who support and believe our service provided.

It will be my last reply on the overclock.net and I figured that people on overclock.net will recognise me in sec.
And which was, as I assumed.

Here's the one thing I could add for the choosing which sellers buy from :

If you are a person who are very sensitive about lower price and willing to get a challenge your luck,
recommended sellers would be BCC, Dream-seller and Green-sum.

As most of you would've noticed, AW does not sell monitors at lower value due to what is provided for customer service and product quality.
Yes, the price may seem $100 higher than compare to those above sellers who sell their monitors at cheap price,
but we are still maintain our selling rate as a No.1, Top rated, platinum seller and we managed to enter Amazon.com/ Amazon.UK and Amazon.DE.
We've differenciated our sales marketing compare to other sellers providing ONLY lower price; we provide free return/refund within 30 days from purchased date when monitor has defects, we have 1 year warranty for monitor defect repair service,guarantee up to 3 defective pixels return/refund and provide any power adapter via Fedex when it is dead on usage and so on.

What about other sellers?
Time to time, I receive messages from buyers who purchsed their monitor from others, requesting for help/assistance to get their monitor fixed to me.
Because their original sellers do not respond/ignore them once they sold out the monitors to buyers.
I am not here to criticize other sellers, but I feel very sorry for those buyers in trouble and such an inconvenience.
Because, those buyers are purchased the CorssOver, Achieva and/or Yamakasi that are manufactuered in Korea and will have bad impression and doubt about Korea manufactuered products.
That is what we consider as an issue.
Not all sellers are irresponsible for their sales and all products produced in Korea is considered as Bad, but those unhappy buyers led potential buyers to hesitate and get bad impression of it.

If I were a buyer, I will thinkg wisely and compare all warranty policy before I choose any seller from Ebay.
Because, all sellers are dealers who get monitors from same manufactuerers(Of course the quality of monitor may varies) and shipping service provided from sellers are about same.
What you should've consider most will be the seller will be responsible and kind after 6 or 7 months later as when they sell their monitor to you in first place.
Bevause, monitor is not an item that you will use for short time but over 1 years.

We believe we are in the place where we are because we had /have greatest support from buyers; therefore, we do our utmost to serve what is right for our customers.
I would call it as "Trust" built between AW and customers. I do not have any doubt on that.

I believe our customers are not stupid to pay additional charge of $100 more compared to other sellers if our customers didn't get what is worth it.
So, we could be so proudly say we are doing our best to serve customer's needs and wants.

Oh, one more thing I should add will be that monitor price has gone up due to the shortage of LG -IPS panel supply to manufactuerer; due to the shortage of LG-IPS panel, the price went up since sept. 1st. (quote the balance of demand and supply, I guess).
Sincere apologies for the buyers who wanted to have monitors at lower price. But the price won't go any lower due to its circumstances for awhile. (Hoply)

I once tried to do accelerate our sales of monitors at the beginning but then, I tried to get information about what buyers want from sellers and implied imformation to provide better customer service.
Hope I did not spoiled any purpose of this thread and if you have any questions or assistance, feel free to contact me on Ebay or company email for customer service.
I will be opened for anyone with warm regards.


----------



## spo0linup

I think it's great that we finally have an eBay seller present on the forums. This way we'll be able to dispel certain claims that buyers make, and possibly have the seller be accountable for such claims.

On the other hand, a lot of people have been happy with AW, and some have not. I take their eBay feedback with a grain of salt, because most of it seems to be from cosmetic sales... especially moreso compared to sellers like green-sum

I am getting ready to make another purchase, and I'm thinking very carefully about whether AW's "policies" are worth the heavily inflated prices of nearly $40-$60 on each item


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spo0linup*
> 
> I think it's great that we finally have an eBay seller present on the forums. This way we'll be able to dispel certain claims that buyers make, and possibly have the seller be accountable for such claims.
> On the other hand, a lot of people have been happy with AW, and some have not. I take their eBay feedback with a grain of salt, because *most of it seems to be from cosmetic sales*... especially moreso compared to sellers like green-sum
> I am getting ready to make another purchase, and I'm thinking very carefully about whether AW's "policies" are worth the heavily inflated prices of nearly $40-$60 on each item


I noticed that dream-seller has a significant portion of his from people buying a large number of $0.2 cosmetic products and leaving feedback for each of the products. Seems suspicious.


----------



## Descadent

I for one knew that AW lurked these forums, if you don't think other sellers are doing it too, and creating accounts to come in here and bash other sellers... then well...you don't get internet anonymity, but at least AW had balls to admit they existed in this thread. Plenty of us have had great monitors from them and other sellers. Like I said pick which one you want, but let the top seller status, A panels(not A-), the least amount of dead pixel policy being 3 or less, and the feedback and yes just go read their feedback... there is feedback from someone about a korean monitor everyday if not multiple per day. Just go through the last 5-10 pages of most recent feedback as an example.

Either way you CANNOT go wrong with these Korean monitors from anyone in the long run, just some sellers give you better policies and your gonna pay for that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spo0linup*
> 
> I am getting ready to make another purchase, and I'm thinking very carefully about whether AW's "policies" are worth the heavily inflated prices of nearly $40-$60 on each item


I found it to be. 3 non pixel perfects that are flawless. Like AW said your paying for a better pixel policy and faster shipping/warranty/support


----------



## Azefore

Just ordered a crossover 27q without pivot stand from Dream-seller on the 10th, shipped this morning on the 12th. I'm hoping everything goes ok but if not AW seems like the only seller I'd choose afterwards seeing as I need to buy another crossover within 2 weeks for my setup. I don't mind the 5 pixel or less policy as they'll be in my peripheral fov most of the time but just interested if the powerbrick will be correct to US voltages, I've seen some who got ones that work and others that don't. Meh, wait and see I guess


----------



## ronald

Well i bought one from AW before the price raise and I am so far having a great experience with my cross over - no defects what so ever.


----------



## Tephnos

I got a customs letter in today from Fedex

Apparently I have a crossover coming that I didn't order

Lolwut.


----------



## ajflick42

I had a great experience with AW. My monitor has been one of the best upgrades for my system. I love playing games on it. I would love to have 2 more, might need to get another 680 to sli before, but I will order from AW again, no question. I also appreciate the fact they they actually follow these forums. That shows clear intent that they care about their rep and making sure people are happy with their experience with them.

I am very happy that I had this forum to check out before I purchased. I went with AW because if you add everything up, the ebay ratings and the other users that have almost always been taken care of by AW, seems that they do the best they can.

also, the 3 crossovers for gaming drool...it must be done!


----------



## Stealth Pyros

I am incredibly happy with my "perfect" Crossover. I think my one complaint is that the blacks are way too dark. I was playing BF3 last night and on Armored Shield, there are a few corridors that are pitch black to the point where I can't possibly see an enemy in the room. I asked my friend on Mumble and he said it was dark but that he could make out the wall textures and my player model. I turned up my gamma in the NVIDIA control panel last night a little (noticed my wallpaper became a little more distinguished in the dark blacks) so hopefully that helps in-game as well.

Also, for whoever it was that somewhat doubted my performance on 2 570s, BF3 runs flawlessly. 2560x1400, everything on ultra, 16x AF, HBAO, FXAA injector mod (though I disable it on the new night map because it looks horrible with the injector on), no in-game AA. Alborz Mountain definitely strains my cards, but there is no perceived slowdown. Of course I'd still love myself a pair of 680s, though.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Only issue I have with my Shimians is a fairly light black level but I've noticed that on most IPS panels I've seen. Otherwise they are perfect; well 120Hz would sure be nice but what can you do...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Just a few Galaxy Nexus shots for now. Will post more soon showing backlight in the dark. Note that there _are_ some slight reflections caught in these. It was daytime and I couldn't do anything to make it darker. I will post some dark shots soon.

RGB in order


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> I purchased the 27Q about a month ago and it was perfect for a while. Yesterday I started noticing some mild flickering of the screen, very faint but noticeable if you paid close attention. Today, the flickering is near constant and glaringly obvious and the monitor goes completely black quite frequently (at least once every 15 minutes) requiring several power cycles to restore the picture. I contacted red-cap yesterday when it was doing the minor flickering and he seemed hesitant to start the return process, but now that it has progressed I'm hoping he'll take it back. I'll let you all know how it turns out, but just something to be aware of considering this monitor was perfectly fine for almost a month. I'm very disappointed. Hoping to do an exchange.


Well the monitor seems to have spontaneously resolved itself, its been flicker free for about an hour now I'm actually quite concerned cause according to red-cap if I attempt to exchange it and they don't see the problem when they receive it I'll be responsible for shipping. But I don't want to be stuck with a monitor that could spontaneously start failing again. Not sure what to do.


----------



## 3py0n

nice one Stealth! Would have replied to PM but I reached my limit of..2 lol wth?

Anyway good to know that he takes care of customs and what not! That makes it much sweeter...I dont like hidden fees like $70 at the door, etc.

Definitely making me wanna bite the bullet and pick one up!!


----------



## swish919

Hey Guys,

Anyone notice a buzzing noise with their monitors?
It actually changes with what's displayed, meaning on some screens it's louder / more noticeable than others.

My monitor is only less than a couple of weeks old and I'm not sure if it's always had this since day one or if it's just ambient enough for me to hear it now. It's fairly noticeable. If you use DPT.exe (dead pixel tester), the highest noise comes on a completely white screen. OR you can go to any page which is mainly white e.g. go to a wiki page and you can hear that noise; scroll up and down and noise changes as well.

Could it be a bad power supply?

For those that have had it, did you do anything to resolve it/ exchange or return it/ or other? Did it go away? did it grow louder over time? I was wondering if this was normal or if it's something to be concerned over... Thoughts?

TIA


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swish919*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Anyone notice a buzzing noise with their monitors?
> It actually changes with what's displayed, meaning on some screens it's louder / more noticeable than others.
> 
> My monitor is only less than a couple of weeks old and I'm not sure if it's always had this since day one or if it's just ambient enough for me to hear it now. It's fairly noticeable. If you use DPT.exe (dead pixel tester), the highest noise comes on a completely white screen. OR you can go to any page which is mainly white e.g. go to a wiki page and you can hear that noise; scroll up and down and noise changes as well.
> 
> Could it be a bad power supply?
> 
> For those that have had it, did you do anything to resolve it/ exchange or return it/ or other? Did it go away? did it grow louder over time? I was wondering if this was normal or if it's something to be concerned over... Thoughts?
> 
> TIA


I did not hear that at all but I will test for that tonight and post back.


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well the monitor seems to have spontaneously resolved itself, its been flicker free for about an hour now I'm actually quite concerned cause according to red-cap if I attempt to exchange it and they don't see the problem when they receive it I'll be responsible for shipping. But I don't want to be stuck with a monitor that could spontaneously start failing again. Not sure what to do.


If it's redcap, ask to see if he'll give you a PCB instead. I heard he can usually get just the parts to people.

Also, yeah, I have noticed glossy IPS monitors for some reason have extremely dark black crush. I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the way our eyes handle the light reflections or something. All matte coating monitors I've had didn't have this problem. So I guess it's a tradeoff you'll have to deal with. Punchier colours or more black detail?


----------



## ajflick42

just a few pictures from my phone, not real good. with the earth photo i am hoping you can see just how crisp and clear these are. The tree photo has some fade out in the picture to make it look artsy, but the tree which is in focus should look really sharp, great colors.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> If it's redcap, ask to see if he'll give you a PCB instead. I heard he can usually get just the parts to people.
> Also, yeah, I have noticed glossy IPS monitors for some reason have extremely dark black crush. I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the way our eyes handle the light reflections or something. All matte coating monitors I've had didn't have this problem. So I guess it's a tradeoff you'll have to deal with. Punchier colours or more black detail?


How hard is replacing the PCB on this monitor? Never done it and haven't seen any guides or info about that


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swish919*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> Anyone notice a buzzing noise with their monitors?
> It actually changes with what's displayed, meaning on some screens it's louder / more noticeable than others.
> My monitor is only less than a couple of weeks old and I'm not sure if it's always had this since day one or if it's just ambient enough for me to hear it now. It's fairly noticeable. If you use DPT.exe (dead pixel tester), the highest noise comes on a completely white screen. OR you can go to any page which is mainly white e.g. go to a wiki page and you can hear that noise; scroll up and down and noise changes as well.
> Could it be a bad power supply?
> For those that have had it, did you do anything to resolve it/ exchange or return it/ or other? Did it go away? did it grow louder over time? I was wondering if this was normal or if it's something to be concerned over... Thoughts?
> TIA


My monitor buzzed like no tomorrow when i got it. This helped to resolve my issue. Crossover essentially has the same panel as the shimian. The monitor was pretty simple to take apart, aside from few pretty short cables that we're somewhat of a pain when i assembled the monitor. Actually, when i opened the monitor i noticed that those chokes we're already covered by hot glue/whatever. What i did was i put some thermal pads on them and some tape to keep the thermal pads from falling off. My monitor doesn't buzz anymore. Before i could hear the pitch of the noise change when i changed a browser tab in firefox. It was really annoying.

It's pretty simple process i would say. Though i wasn't very happy at first because i had to crack open my brand new monitor open right away to shut it up.


----------



## rationalthinking

Anyone have experience with the seller dhsummer from eBay?

dhsummer

I plan on buying 2 Crossovers from him Friday morning.


----------



## kevosuki

I just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P from BCC. I have a question for you Crossover owners. If you had the yellow tint on your screen, does it eventually go away after usage?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevosuki*
> 
> I just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P from BCC. I have a question for you Crossover owners. If you had the yellow tint on your screen, does it eventually go away after usage?


I honestly held a white paper to my screen and noticed no yellow tinting, but again most of my "tests" were done in daylight. I'll be testing for the few things that some of you guys have mentioned tonight and post back. So far:

-Any backlight bleed/glow in the dark?
-Buzzing noise with white screen or with TPT.exe pixel test?
-Yellow tint present?

I'm using a 



. He has a (hardware) monitor calibrator tool which are pretty expensive and accurate.


----------



## kevosuki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I honestly held a white paper to my screen and noticed no yellow tinting, but again most of my "tests" were done in daylight. I'll be testing for the few things that some of you guys have mentioned tonight and post back. So far:
> -Any backlight bleed/glow in the dark?
> -Buzzing noise with white screen or with TPT.exe pixel test?
> -Yellow tint present?
> I'm using a
> 
> 
> 
> . He has a (hardware) monitor calibrator tool which are pretty expensive and accurate.


Thanks for your response. The yellow tint starts around 1/3th of the way to the bottom of the screen and worsens as it reaches the bottom. The screen looks beautiful until 2/3ths on the way down, where it whites start to look yellow.


----------



## Grogan5000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevosuki*
> 
> Thanks for your response. The yellow tint starts around 1/3th of the way to the bottom of the screen and worsens as it reaches the bottom. The screen looks beautiful until 2/3ths on the way down, where it whites start to look yellow.


I think all these leftover LG panels in these cheap screens do that , my new Crossover has it very slightly but its a bit better than the Catleap I had.


----------



## salvanos

crossover with pivot still expensive...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevosuki*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I honestly held a white paper to my screen and noticed no yellow tinting, but again most of my "tests" were done in daylight. I'll be testing for the few things that some of you guys have mentioned tonight and post back. So far:
> -Any backlight bleed/glow in the dark?
> -Buzzing noise with white screen or with TPT.exe pixel test?
> -Yellow tint present?
> I'm using a
> 
> 
> 
> . He has a (hardware) monitor calibrator tool which are pretty expensive and accurate.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response. The yellow tint starts around 1/3th of the way to the bottom of the screen and worsens as it reaches the bottom. The screen looks beautiful until 2/3ths on the way down, where it whites start to look yellow.
Click to expand...

Ok. I do see a VERY slight yellow tint near the bottom edge now. It's not enough to bother me, I can only see it if I look from an upwards angle sort of, and I have good vision and color perception AND I'm picky about things like this. I'll take photos of all of this when it hits dark.

Isn't this "normal" or common on IPS monitors though? I've heard of plenty of Dell and Apple IPS displays with either a yellow or blue tint to them. Totally unnoticeable on anything other than a full white background.

Another thing I just thought of: make sure to secure your DVI cable snugly on both ends. At work the other day my monitor was randomly showing a horrible green and yellow OVERLAY and it was a loose monitor cable. Perhaps you can even clean the pins with alcohol and q-tip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swish919*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Anyone notice a buzzing noise with their monitors?
> It actually changes with what's displayed, meaning on some screens it's louder / more noticeable than others.
> 
> My monitor is only less than a couple of weeks old and I'm not sure if it's always had this since day one or if it's just ambient enough for me to hear it now. It's fairly noticeable. If you use DPT.exe (dead pixel tester), the highest noise comes on a completely white screen. OR you can go to any page which is mainly white e.g. go to a wiki page and you can hear that noise; scroll up and down and noise changes as well.
> 
> Could it be a bad power supply?
> 
> For those that have had it, did you do anything to resolve it/ exchange or return it/ or other? Did it go away? did it grow louder over time? I was wondering if this was normal or if it's something to be concerned over... Thoughts?
> 
> TIA


Update on this:
No buzzing on any pages/solid colors for me. I also have good hearing









Darn, I found a dead pixel







Though it is laughably small. Edit: OMG It's blue! Doesn't that mean it is just stuck and might be fixable? Time to run some flashing colors behind it. FYI this is a shot with my T2i.


Aaaaand a handy tool for anyone that wants to try to fix pixels: http://blog.gwax.com/2009/12/08/unsticking-stuck-lcd-pixels-a-script/


----------



## farstar

Beware of Dream Seller right now. I ordered a Pixel Perfect 2720MDP from them (Accesorieswhole is out of them). When I inquired about a tracking number I got this automated response.

Hi ********,

dream-seller is out of the office until 09/30/2012 and may not be able to respond to your message.

Message from dream-seller:
HI!
Thanks for your message.

We are truly sorry,but it is not possible to quick reply to your question or asking.
One of our staff entered a hospital.
Only one staff who is not good at CS work replying all of message.
Because of this reason the answer could be delayed.
We beg your deep understanding with your generous mind.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farstar*
> 
> Beware of Dream Seller right now. I ordered a Pixel Perfect 2720MDP from them (Accesorieswhole is out of them). When I inquired about a tracking number I got this automated response.
> 
> Hi ********,
> 
> dream-seller is out of the office until 09/30/2012 and may not be able to respond to your message.
> 
> Message from dream-seller:
> HI!
> Thanks for your message.
> 
> We are truly sorry,but it is not possible to quick reply to your question or asking.
> One of our staff entered a hospital.
> Only one staff who is not good at CS work replying all of message.
> Because of this reason the answer could be delayed.
> We beg your deep understanding with your generous mind.


I wouldn't worry about the validity of that. I had messaged him/them a few times when I ordered my monitor and they responded very quickly the next day. The day before my monitor arrived, I messaged them because Paypal billed me twice (not his error) and I got that message too. They will likely get your monitor shipped out quickly, they just won't update eBay very quickly with tracking/etc.


----------



## firefox2501

My monitor I got a few weeks back has started displaying red artifacts or losing what seems to be one of the three colors across the whole screen. Has anyone encountered these issues?

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firefox2501*
> 
> My monitor I got a few weeks back has started displaying red artifacts or losing what seems to be one of the three colors across the whole screen. Has anyone encountered these issues?
> Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2


Try a different DVI cable.


----------



## kuyamark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Anyone have experience with the seller dhsummer from eBay?
> dhsummer
> I plan on buying 2 Crossovers from him Friday morning.


I ordered from him 2 days ago and we exchanged a couple of messages but I haven't heared from him today about the question aI asked him about warranty and if my monitor shipped already. I'll keep u posted when he responds back!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Ok. I do see a VERY slight yellow tint near the bottom edge now. It's not enough to bother me, I can only see it if I look from an upwards angle sort of, and I have good vision and color perception AND I'm picky about things like this. I'll take photos of all of this when it hits dark.
> Isn't this "normal" or common on IPS monitors though? I've heard of plenty of Dell and Apple IPS displays with either a yellow or blue tint to them. Totally unnoticeable on anything other than a full white background.
> Another thing I just thought of: make sure to secure your DVI cable snugly on both ends. At work the other day my monitor was randomly showing a horrible green and yellow OVERLAY and it was a loose monitor cable. Perhaps you can even clean the pins with alcohol and q-tip.
> Update on this:
> No buzzing on any pages/solid colors for me. I also have good hearing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darn, I found a dead pixel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though it is laughably small. Edit: OMG It's blue! Doesn't that mean it is just stuck and might be fixable? Time to run some flashing colors behind it. FYI this is a shot with my T2i.
> 
> Aaaaand a handy tool for anyone that wants to try to fix pixels: http://blog.gwax.com/2009/12/08/unsticking-stuck-lcd-pixels-a-script/


Why are you trying so hard to find dead pixels??? I personally have no wish to search for them on my monitors. If I don't notice them then they don't exist as far as I'm concerned...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Ok. I do see a VERY slight yellow tint near the bottom edge now. It's not enough to bother me, I can only see it if I look from an upwards angle sort of, and I have good vision and color perception AND I'm picky about things like this. I'll take photos of all of this when it hits dark.
> Isn't this "normal" or common on IPS monitors though? I've heard of plenty of Dell and Apple IPS displays with either a yellow or blue tint to them. Totally unnoticeable on anything other than a full white background.
> Another thing I just thought of: make sure to secure your DVI cable snugly on both ends. At work the other day my monitor was randomly showing a horrible green and yellow OVERLAY and it was a loose monitor cable. Perhaps you can even clean the pins with alcohol and q-tip.
> Update on this:
> No buzzing on any pages/solid colors for me. I also have good hearing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darn, I found a dead pixel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though it is laughably small. Edit: OMG It's blue! Doesn't that mean it is just stuck and might be fixable? Time to run some flashing colors behind it. FYI this is a shot with my T2i.
> 
> Aaaaand a handy tool for anyone that wants to try to fix pixels: http://blog.gwax.com/2009/12/08/unsticking-stuck-lcd-pixels-a-script/
> 
> 
> 
> Why are you trying so hard to find dead pixels??? I personally have no wish to search for them on my monitors. If I don't notice them then they don't exist as far as I'm concerned...
Click to expand...

Lol I was mostly being comical in that post... I randomly noticed it when I was zooming in on a photo. Didn't manage to fix it with that tool but it's not bothering me


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Why are you trying so hard to find dead pixels??? I personally have no wish to search for them on my monitors. If I don't notice them then they don't exist as far as I'm concerned...


Resale value, and you can fix them if you are lucky.


----------



## Loomer

Hi there,

I have this monitor, and it's absolutely wonderful with my PC. However, when I plug my Macbook Pro in (2011 model), it presents a perfect picture for about five seconds, then shuts off, then turns back off, then shuts off, etc. This happens when the Macbook lid is closed, and it doesn't seem to matter if I change the resolution. Has anyone else had this issue, or figured out how to fix it?

I'm using the Apple mini display port to dual-link DVI adaptor, purchased directly from the Apple store.


----------



## C70T5

I don't have any problem with AW, it is just the returns process has been confusing. I sent back a faulty monitor which had zero dead pixels and they said if I paid the shipping both ways they would send me a new monitor which I agreed to. I asked for a new monitor also with zero dead/stuck pixels. They said because the one I purchased was not a 'perfect pixel' model they can't send me a new one with zero dead pixels. So the situation would be that I have paid full price for the faulty monitor, and shipping both ways, but end up with a monitor in return that could have dead/stuck pixels. That didn't sound right to me.

Anyway its sorted now I think and I'm just going to buy something else. Luckily my other Crossover 27M bought from jumiss is working perfectly.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> If it's redcap, ask to see if he'll give you a PCB instead. I heard he can usually get just the parts to people.
> Also, yeah, I have noticed glossy IPS monitors for some reason have extremely dark black crush. I'm guessing it's probably something to do with the way our eyes handle the light reflections or something. All matte coating monitors I've had didn't have this problem. So I guess it's a tradeoff you'll have to deal with. Punchier colours or more black detail?


Well I'm posting this from my phone now cause the backlight has completely died. If I take a flashlight close to the monitor I can see that the panel itself is still functioning but no light and a dark display. I contacted red cap about this an informed him of the progression and he seemed to not understand and asked me to send a video of the flickering (which I had recorded and attached a YouTube link for the first time I contacted him). It seems communication or language might be an issue here or possible he just didn't see my latest update. I sent the video and tried to explain that the flickering is no longer the issue and that the backlight is completely dead. I also sent a new video with the monitor completely black and a barely visible picture in a smal region where a flashlight is shown. I'm worried that communication is going to be a problem and make this transaction difficult. Has anyone dealt with red cap before? How's his English? Should he be accommodating to this issue?


----------



## matisto27

Hey i don't understand i bought a screen from ebay from one of those popular guys from south korea
But can someone tell me if they include invoice in the package ? :s
I have now problems with my customs here in belgium. On the tracking it says customs retention : missing invoice
And that guy is on holiday and will respond but in delay








Can somebody tell me why they don't include invoice i mean it would seem normal to do so if you already have sended 1000+ screens to people
greets
Matis


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Lol I was mostly being comical in that post... I randomly noticed it when I was zooming in on a photo. Didn't manage to fix it with that tool but it's not bothering me


Damn, lucky with that backlight.


----------



## rationalthinking

Just ordered 2 of these today.

Are these things 60Hz?

EDT:

Also, do I need to buy a North American adapter for this thing?


----------



## MisterA

I had the same thing happening to me. I live in Belgium as well and ordered a screen. After a few weeks the screen had not arrived, after calling customs I found out it was stuck there due to a missing invoice.

I then contacted the supplier and they sent me some excel file, I printed that excel file to a PDF and sent it to customs in an email. A week later I had my screen.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Just ordered 2 of these today.
> Are these things 60Hz?
> EDT:
> Also, do I need to buy a North American adapter for this thing?


do your own research before you buy and become an informed consumer please.









yes they are 60hz as stated everywhere

and depending on the seller you bought it from THEY would have stated in THEIR AUCTION if there is an adapter or not. So all depends on seller, some don't but most do.


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Just ordered 2 of these today.
> Are these things 60Hz?
> EDT:
> Also, do I need to buy a North American adapter for this thing?
> 
> 
> 
> do your own research before you buy and become an informed consumer please.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yes they are 60hz as stated everywhere
> 
> and depending on the seller you bought it from THEY would have stated in THEIR AUCTION if there is an adapter or not. So all depends on seller, some don't but most do.
Click to expand...

You're right, I'm purely impulse.


----------



## vsshokeen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farstar*
> 
> Beware of Dream Seller right now. I ordered a Pixel Perfect 2720MDP from them (Accesorieswhole is out of them). When I inquired about a tracking number I got this automated response.
> Hi ********,
> dream-seller is out of the office until 09/30/2012 and may not be able to respond to your message.
> Message from dream-seller:
> HI!
> Thanks for your message.
> We are truly sorry,but it is not possible to quick reply to your question or asking.
> One of our staff entered a hospital.
> Only one staff who is not good at CS work replying all of message.
> Because of this reason the answer could be delayed.
> We beg your deep understanding with your generous mind.


I told you guys that at present BCC gives the best monitors and service
I am happy with his monitor though the DHL guys have dented the frame of my monitor and i am getting a good response from DHL as well as BCC.
Hope they settle this soon


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vsshokeen*
> 
> I told you guys that at present BCC gives the best monitors and service
> I am happy with his monitor though the DHL guys have dented the frame of my monitor and i am getting a good response from DHL as well as BCC.
> Hope they settle this soon


Can you post pictures of the damage please?

I bought two Crossover's from BCC and one came with a slight miss-alignment in the bottom left too. I don't think it's a handling error, I think it's just a flaw from production. Mine wasn't very obvious though, so it's hard to tell whether we're talking about the same thing.


----------



## DarK_MischieF

Just purchased a *Crossover 27Q LED-P* from _goodforum_.

A relatively new seller with only 305 feedback (99.3% positive), but has made it into the Top-Rated Seller category. It comes with a "Travel Multi-Adapter" (hopefully it will be enough for my US plugs), no mention of a dual-link DVI cable but from my general browsing of the various sellers the cable is usually included in the monitor box (as opposed to the power adapter being a gift).

14 Day return policy (free return shipping) and a 1 year seller warranty- hopefully it won't come to that.

Really going with eBay's Top-Rated Seller moniker here- although my experience with such sellers have been phenomenal (mind-blowing quick international shipping, good return policies and customer service) so I'm not too worried- just don't enjoy the idea of sending it back to Korea.

For what its worth, I'll keep updates coming- I enjoyed reading the numerous stories in this thread and perhaps someone could benefit from mine.


----------



## Art Vanelay

I'm having some weird problems with my 27q that just arrived. It worked properly for about 5 minutes then suddenly all of the colours broke, and it does things like shut off the screen when I go to certain places and the desktop starts moving in a loop to the left when I click the start menu.Any idea what this is?

I'll try to take a picture later.


----------



## Loomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loomer*
> 
> Hi there,
> I have this monitor, and it's absolutely wonderful with my PC. However, when I plug my Macbook Pro in (2011 model), it presents a perfect picture for about five seconds, then shuts off, then turns back off, then shuts off, etc. This happens when the Macbook lid is closed, and it doesn't seem to matter if I change the resolution. Has anyone else had this issue, or figured out how to fix it?
> I'm using the Apple mini display port to dual-link DVI adaptor, purchased directly from the Apple store.


This got buried at the end of a page a while back-- anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions for workarounds, or should I just get a new one?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> I'm having some weird problems with my 27q that just arrived. It worked properly for about 5 minutes then suddenly all of the colours broke, and it does things like shut off the screen when I go to certain places and the desktop starts moving in a loop to the left when I click the start menu.Any idea what this is?
> 
> I'll try to take a picture later.


It sounds like you might have to open it up and reconnect some cables







Shouldn't be that bad, I know it's intimidating. Search in this thread and I'm sure someone has shared about it. See the quote below:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *POB UK*
> 
> Earlier I wrote about my DOA 27Q LED. (But removed the message)
> 
> However I found a loose connection inside, which I could see from the outside through the holes on the back.
> 
> Opened the back, pushed the connector in place.
> 
> Now I have a perfect monitor, no dead pixels and the backlight is very good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for AW


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loomer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Loomer*
> 
> Hi there,
> I have this monitor, and it's absolutely wonderful with my PC. However, when I plug my Macbook Pro in (2011 model), it presents a perfect picture for about five seconds, then shuts off, then turns back off, then shuts off, etc. This happens when the Macbook lid is closed, and it doesn't seem to matter if I change the resolution. Has anyone else had this issue, or figured out how to fix it?
> I'm using the Apple mini display port to dual-link DVI adaptor, purchased directly from the Apple store.
> 
> 
> 
> This got buried at the end of a page a while back-- anyone else have this issue? Any suggestions for workarounds, or should I just get a new one?
Click to expand...

I think you need an active adapter (rather than passive) for display port to DVI, I'm not sure though. (You may even already be using one) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814999030

An active adapter converts a displayport signal into DVI/HDMI/VGA/etc. It could have a converter or a DAC inside. A passive adapter only changes your plug type, without converting the actual signal


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> It sounds like you might have to open it up and reconnect some cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be that bad, I know it's intimidating. Search in this thread and I'm sure someone has shared about it. See the quote below:


For some reason it works for a minute after I plug in the DVI cable, but then it goes back the the broken colour state


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> It sounds like you might have to open it up and reconnect some cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shouldn't be that bad, I know it's intimidating. Search in this thread and I'm sure someone has shared about it. See the quote below:
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason it works for a minute after I plug in the DVI cable, but then it goes back the the broken colour state
Click to expand...

I say crack it open. You should only have to remove the back cover itself; no need to dig into it taking a lot of stuff out or anything. Just enough to look at all the connections and replug them.


----------



## Pandasaurus

Just letting you guys know, a few of the sellers are having difficulty because every monitor they receive have many dead pixels. My friend purchased one from a seller (who shall not be named cause I don't want to hurt anyone's business), and the seller said that all the batches are defective and can't ship them out. He offered my friend the LED Blade for no extra charge, but I don't think that monitor is better as no one has it.


----------



## Art Vanelay

I got a hold of my camera finally.



help

Would disassembling the monitor void my warranty? Also, should I be worried about being electrocuted if I decide to open it up?


----------



## Pandasaurus

Here are a few pictures of my new Crossover 27Q LED-P and my setup. Currently running 2x GTX 460 SLI. Only spotted 1 dead pixel, but I don't even notice it. Backlight bleed is fine, in the bottom right corner the most and a little in each of the other corners. Will post additional pictures of the rotated view later. Also, I noticed the the power button when turning the monitor off is a tad-bit unresponsive; I have to click in 2-3 times when turning off, but turning on works perfectly.


----------



## tehpsyc

So red-cap is really giving me the run around with this monitor. He responds with short messages barely addressing the problem, asking questions I've already answered. I had originally told him the monitor was flickering and that the backlight then died and he asked for a video of the flickering. I explained the flickering happened first then the light completely died. He then asked for a video of that, which I had already sent to him 2 days ago. I sent it again but it's not very compelling, it's just a black screen. I tried to get the flash really close so you can see the panel still displaying some text with the backlight completely off but it's hard to capture. His responses are pretty slow too, despite me answering him within a minute or two he never gets back to me same day making these little nit pick questions take forever. It's very frustrating has anyone else dealt with him for a return successfully?


----------



## C70T5

You can order from AccessoriesWhole instead..... I had a return with them and they have come through for me very well in the end after some disagreements. I think business should be about good communication and having a good reputation, so because AW have come through for me in the end I have decided to buy another new monitor from them. Hopefully this time they will send it as a $70 gift so it doesn't get stuck in customs again!


----------



## Descadent

There's no lieing that these power supplies for these korean monitors get REAL hot( i have a backup I bought on ebay just in case 1 out of my 3 blow) but does anyone have any advice or technique to help cool the power supplies?

Thanks


----------



## KaRLiToS

I have been using the CrossOver for 4-5 months and bought them from Red-Cap, I never had any problem with the power supplies, at the begginning they were getting hot, but now they get as hot as a normal powersupply. And that is on 3 x CrossOvers without issue.


----------



## IcedEarth

Mine doesn't get hot either. It gets 'cool' at the very most.

I have the Welltronics power supply.


----------



## Descadent

I mean my 3 aren't scalding hot by any means, but they are about equally as hot as my Asus G74sx Laptop power supply gets. But considering I have a tall desk The bricks are actually on desk behind my 3 monitors because they won't reach the floor because of the plug from monitor to power supply isn't very long.

They are just a lot hotter than the 27" acer 3d monitor I used to have, but yet the power supply for that was much smaller too

Mine are the welltronic power supplies as well.


----------



## IcedEarth

Yeah I have mine on the desk too. It's nowhere near as hot as a laptop though (after being on for the past three hours), it's hardly even warm to the touch. Maybe it will progressively get hotter with age.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

My power brick is a little bit warm, but not my Crossover. I touch my feet to the power brick every now and then when I get cold lol.


----------



## ajflick42

my power brick does not really get hot. I have welltronics. my hp laptop brick, now that gets hot. I would say warm to the touch.


----------



## KaRLiToS

My powerbrick are Nanjing Frontek

Are they good?


----------



## Azefore

Well status update as of 12:12am today "Held, cleared regulatory agency(s) after aircraft/truck departed", wonderful, my first international purchase (and I buy a lot) and gets hung up in customs, now it's sitting and chilling in Anchorage >.> Good shipping speed from Dream-Seller though, looking to buy the second one soon now to get 3 in total


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> So red-cap is really giving me the run around with this monitor. He responds with short messages barely addressing the problem, asking questions I've already answered. I had originally told him the monitor was flickering and that the backlight then died and he asked for a video of the flickering. I explained the flickering happened first then the light completely died. He then asked for a video of that, which I had already sent to him 2 days ago. I sent it again but it's not very compelling, it's just a black screen. I tried to get the flash really close so you can see the panel still displaying some text with the backlight completely off but it's hard to capture. His responses are pretty slow too, despite me answering him within a minute or two he never gets back to me same day making these little nit pick questions take forever. It's very frustrating has anyone else dealt with him for a return successfully?


Well this is the latest video I've sent to red-cap trying to "prove" that I have a defective monitor. This is 1 of 3 (the second showing the dead backlight).






Just shows the black dead monitor, then I take the camera flash and get very close and press the start button on the computer so you can see the start menu open/close.

He still continues to drag his feet I don't know what else I can do just have to hope he comes around. Very frustrating that I might be out $350 after 45 days of owning this.


----------



## 3py0n

argh...was gonna buy from dream-seller but messaged to ask about a few things and they messaged back saying he was in the hospital until end of September...

Did anyone buy from them and receive a monitor yet? I don't want to have to wait until end of September to get mine...if that's the case Ima get it from BCC. . .


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well this is the latest video I've sent to red-cap trying to "prove" that I have a defective monitor. This is 1 of 3 (the second showing the dead backlight).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just shows the black dead monitor, then I take the camera flash and get very close and press the start button on the computer so you can see the start menu open/close.
> He still continues to drag his feet I don't know what else I can do just have to hope he comes around. Very frustrating that I might be out $350 after 45 days of owning this.


Why don't you start a PayPal dispute ???

Or at least give him a deadline and tell him if he does not pay attention you will start a dispute with PayPal ... That should help IMO


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3py0n*
> 
> argh...was gonna buy from dream-seller but messaged to ask about a few things and they messaged back saying he was in the hospital until end of September...
> Did anyone buy from them and receive a monitor yet? I don't want to have to wait until end of September to get mine...if that's the case Ima get it from BCC. . .


Lol this is quite funny since I just bought one of two crossovers from Dream-seller on the 10th of this month. It shipped out on the 12th but I had no clue he was out of commission. Did he say when he was admitted into the hospital? Mine's currently in Alaska since it missed depart time due to customs but it'll be here.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Why don't you start a PayPal dispute ???
> Or at least give him a deadline and tell him if he does not pay attention you will start a dispute with PayPal ... That should help IMO


Yeah if after that last video (still waiting for a reply he usually sends one at 4am EST) doesn't prompt him to send me the return instructions I'm gonna do that.

EDIT: I kinda looked in to that and it doesn't appear that I have any options through eBay or paypal now that the initial 45 days have passed since the auction ended (as of 9/8). Any suggestions? Its really a shame cause it seems like other people have had a pretty good interaction with red-cap.


----------



## farstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3py0n*
> 
> argh...was gonna buy from dream-seller but messaged to ask about a few things and they messaged back saying he was in the hospital until end of September...
> Did anyone buy from them and receive a monitor yet? I don't want to have to wait until end of September to get mine...if that's the case Ima get it from BCC. . .


I wouldn't worry too much. I bought from him earlier this week and got the same message. It took him a day and a half to ship but mine is on its way.

Let's just hope he makes it through okay. After all we may need warranty support


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Yeah if after that last video (still waiting for a reply he usually sends one at 4am EST) doesn't prompt him to send me the return instructions I'm gonna do that.
> EDIT: I kinda looked in to that and it doesn't appear that I have any options through eBay or paypal now that the initial 45 days have passed since the auction ended (as of 9/8). Any suggestions? Its really a shame cause it seems like other people have had a pretty good interaction with red-cap.


I feel bad for you but the time you bought the korean monitor you already committed yourself into a gambling game...


----------



## tehpsyc

Yeah I know... but I'm not gonna just give them the money without trying to get an exchange

And in hindsight, I don't regret the purchase at all. I was potentially unfortunate with my seller, and even that is premature to say, but if all this works out poorly and I get stuck with a dead monitor, I'll probably just save up and get another. It was by far the best display I've ever used and I wouldn't want to go back


----------



## gchou

Hey guys,

This is my first time buying a korean monitor so hopefully I can get some expert help from you guys. I just received my crossover 27q led-p from dream-seller, but it has two stuck pixel lines. One is a bright blue vertical line right in the center of the monitor. And a white line that goes across the monitor. The pictures are attached below.



http://imgur.com/LWL0w





What should I do at this point?
Is this monitor a faulty unit? If so, can I request an exchange from dream-seller?

Thanks,
George


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gchou*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> This is my first time buying a korean monitor so hopefully I can get some expert help from you guys. I just received my crossover 27q led-p from dream-seller, but it has two stuck pixel lines. One is a bright blue vertical line right in the center of the monitor. And a white line that goes across the monitor. The pictures are attached below.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/LWL0w
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What should I do at this point?
> Is this monitor a faulty unit? If so, can I request an exchange from dream-seller?
> 
> Thanks,
> George


Whoa! I've never seen anything like that on any monitor. I'm pretty sure that you are definitely eligible for a replacement, but maybe someone else can recommend that it is just an internal issue that you can reconnect yourself.


----------



## mistax

woah did the price increase? i got mine a month or so back for 374 than saw it drop to 348 now its 470?!?!


----------



## C70T5

Dell's new U2713HM monitor is simply amazing and I have gone for one of those. The price difference between the new Dell monitor which comes with 3 years warranty, and a perfect pixel Crossover 2720MDP Pivot is negligible. And any saving that you make by ordering the Korean one will be lost as soon as you have to ship it back for repair.

Can't wait for my Dell beauty now!


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Dell's new U2713HM monitor is simply amazing and I have gone for one of those. The price difference between the new Dell monitor which comes with 3 years warranty, and a perfect pixel Crossover 2720MDP Pivot is negligible. And any saving that you make by ordering the Korean one will be lost as soon as you have to ship it back for repair.
> Can't wait for my Dell beauty now!


It won't necessarily be lost during shipping. Fed Ex decided to play basketball with mine, as far as I can tell from the packaging. You don't even need to lose the monitor to break it.


----------



## C70T5

LOL @ Art Vanelay

What I meant was that any savings made by buying a Korean model will be lost (i.e. the savings become void) as soon as you have to send it back for repair because the shipping costs are so exuberant


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> LOL @ Art Vanelay
> What I meant was that any savings made by buying a Korean model will be lost (i.e. the savings become void) as soon as you have to send it back for repair because the shipping costs are so exuberant


That's definitely true. Even the postal service charges half the price of your monitor to ship it.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> LOL @ Art Vanelay
> What I meant was that any savings made by buying a Korean model will be lost (i.e. the savings become void) as soon as you have to send it back for repair because the shipping costs are so exuberant


Why do you assume somebody is going to have to send it back? Plenty of people on here that have had absolutely no issues whatsoever. Your new Dell is nice but so are these Korean monitors...


----------



## gchou

Does anyone have experience working with dream-seller regarding a malfunctioning unit for an exchange, etc?

I have a faulty unit with two stuck pixel lines (>5 pixels). If I request an exchange from dream-seller, will he pay for the shipping?

Thanks


----------



## C70T5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Why do you assume somebody is going to have to send it back? Plenty of people on here that have had absolutely no issues whatsoever. Your new Dell is nice but so are these Korean monitors...


I'm saying IF you have to send it back and I'm only talking about the 2720MDP Gold Pivot, not the cheaper 27Q models which are real bargain. If you were buying the top of the range 2720DMP Gold Pivot as a Pixel Perfect model then there is hardly any saving to be made over Dell's new baby.

Anyway its just another option as Dell have made a seriously good monitor with the new advanced IPS technology and dropped the price as well!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> woah did the price increase? i got mine a month or so back for 374 than saw it drop to 348 now its 470?!?!


yes they did simple supply and demand


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I'm saying IF you have to send it back and I'm only talking about the 2720MDP Gold Pivot, not the cheaper 27Q models which are real bargain. If you were buying the top of the range 2720DMP Gold Pivot as a Pixel Perfect model then there is hardly any saving to be made over Dell's new baby.
> Anyway its just another option as Dell have made a seriously good monitor with the new advanced IPS technology and dropped the price as well!


Do you have a link to the Dell?
I'm seeing $899 and $999 before tax. That's $300+ more than Gold isn't it? I've seen the non-Pivot version in < $450 with Pixel Perfect $100 more....


----------



## treefiddy

The new Dell U2713HM is still a fair bit more expensive than the Crossover, but the U2711 has come down in price and it's now possible to find used U2711s with the remainder of a 3 year warranty for less than the price of the equivalent Perfect Pixel Crossover. I prefer 'new' though and prefer LED and the gloss screen of the Crossover over Dell's antiglare, so have pulled the trigger on a Crossover 2720MDP through Amazon. Hope it goes ok.


----------



## Azefore

Another leading advantage for the crossover 2720mdp gold pivot is that it has a few more connections that the Dell lacks: component, a second HDMI input, and input for sound for the use of it's onboard speakers (which do matter in some cases). Depends on what you want more, also its new panel in the Dell doesn't show any overglaring advantages over the tried LG panel

On another note my crossover 27q made it to my state, it'll be delivered tomorrow and pics will follow. Ordered from Dream-seller on the 10th and shipped out the 12th, not a bad transit time at all.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Using the 1080P monitor on my backup rig feels weird now...


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Do you have a link to the Dell?
> I'm seeing $899 and $999 before tax. That's $300+ more than Gold isn't it? I've seen the non-Pivot version in < $450 with Pixel Perfect $100 more....


I saw a UD2711 on newegg for $700 and a samsung s27 for $750.


----------



## C70T5

I paid about £550 ($899 ish) for my Dell U2713HM which comes with 3 year warranty.

The Crossover 2720MDP Gold Pivot with Perfect Pixel costs about £450 after paypal conversion and customs. So its only a £100 saving for me, but I don't get 3 year warranty and if I do have a problem then it costs me £135 to send to Korea anyway (which I had to do recently as my monitor broke in less than three months!). Not worth it for me especially as the quality of the bezel is nowhere near as nice as the 27Q/27M models.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Well, I just learned that dream-seller does not put any insurance on his packages. I've now lost about $300 because of him. Do not buy from dream-seller.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Well, I just learned that dream-seller does not put any insurance on his packages. I've now lost about $300 because of him. Do not buy from dream-seller.


So you just have a broken monitor at your house now?


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> So you just have a broken monitor at your house now?


Yeah. I found out eBay buyer protection covers something damaged during shipping, though, so I can probably get my money back. This was still a total disaster; if I get my money back, I'm going to get a Samsung PLS monitor instead.


----------



## go4life

Just got my Crossover 27Q LEP-P Pixel Perfect from Accessorieswhole. Good seller and fast shipping (Only official seller of Crossover).
Monitor is great! Image quality is fantastic, I actually prefer the look on this compared to my old 30" Dell 3008WFP.

It is WAY faster than the old Dell, this feels almost like a TN panel monitor when it comes to speed.

*Also I managed to overclock mine to 65hz, more than that and screen is just black.
What have you guys managed on yours?*


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Yeah. I found out eBay buyer protection covers something damaged during shipping, though, so I can probably get my money back. This was still a total disaster; if I get my money back, I'm going to get a Samsung PLS monitor instead.


Yah I'd say so, are you disputing it with him atm? Also I think Accessorieswhole will be the source of my next crossover, just seems quicker but we'll see tomorrow...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Well, I just learned that dream-seller does not put any insurance on his packages. I've now lost about $300 because of him. Do not buy from dream-seller.


I doubt any of the sellers do, though. The shipping is already quite expensive and cuts their profit really low. It's good that eBay might cover it though. What's broken with your monitor?


----------



## skyn3t

just for update. I received my CrossOver 27Q LED-P 27". My monitor box was a bit. Fedex messed up when they shipped is from Alaska. but thank God y have a perfect pixel no dead pixel or germ at all so I'm very lucky and happy with my CrossOver.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

^ My box looked the same and I wasn't even worried when I saw it, because I know how they're packed inside


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yah I'd say so, are you disputing it with him atm? Also I think Accessorieswhole will be the source of my next crossover, just seems quicker but we'll see tomorrow...


I contacted him and requested that this be resolved; he doesn't work on weekends, I think, so I haven't gotten any responses yet. If he tells me that he won't do anything, then I'll go to eBay and have them deal with it.
Quote:


> I doubt any of the sellers do, though. The shipping is already quite expensive and cuts their profit really low. It's good that eBay might cover it though. What's broken with your monitor?


It does this when it gets warm.

Quote:


>


I got the exact same message. That's really suspicious.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> 
> I got the exact same message. That's really suspicious.


? i don't get you? why suspicious? sometimes shipping delay a lot. He just included this message for precaution if the package delay's.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Still nothing more than a single dead pixel over here. I also like how quickly this monitor turns on from sleep mode. My T240HD used to be really annoying with that. I used to have to madly tap keys and violently shake my mouse for several _minutes_ sometimes.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> ? i don't get you? why suspicious? sometimes shipping delay a lot. He just included this message for precaution if the package delay's.


I find it suspicious how he tells everyone that their first monitor was defective and had to be sent back to the factory.


----------



## Descadent

and thats why sellers who bubble wrap the boxes before shipping out usually have a lesser beat to hell and non wet or damp box.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> and thats why sellers who bubble wrap the boxes before shipping out usually have a lesser beat to hell and non wet or damp box.


Is this kind of damage normal? The guy at Canada Computers said that this was the worst case he had ever seen.


----------



## go4life

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Is this kind of damage normal? The guy at Canada Computers said that this was the worst case he had ever seen.


As long as the monitor is ok, its nothing to worry about.
And in all my years as a computer worker, that is far from the worst I have seen (Once saw one with half the package ripped open on the side and scratched monitor on panel)









*On another topic: Has anyone else overclocked their 27Q LED/LED-P? I got 65hz out of mine!*


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Is this kind of damage normal? The guy at Canada Computers said that this was the worst case he had ever seen.


What damage?

People get all huffy if the box isn't in pristine condition but the whole purpose of a box is to *protect* the contents.

His monitor works perfectly and is pixel perfect. The box did its job. There is nothing to complain about.


----------



## barvybe

Hey -
About to order a Crossover from AW. Anything you think I should ask him from your experience? I don't really have any questions about the monitor itself and I'm shipping to the US.

Thx!
P


----------



## 3py0n

WOW anyone see that spike? lol $999 from AW now...looks like that is no longer an option...prob. gon get from BCC or dream-seller.

ta-planet also increased their prices to $500.


----------



## Descadent

because supply is DOWN

also if you click on AW's auction it says in bright red. OUT OF STOCK


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Hey -
> About to order a Crossover from AW. Anything you think I should ask him from your experience? I don't really have any questions about the monitor itself and I'm shipping to the US.
> Thx!
> P


just search this thread please. million and half posts about aw.


----------



## 3py0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> because supply is DOWN
> also if you click on AW's auction it says in bright red. OUT OF STOCK


Yea







And just when I wanted to make the jump this week too!!

Well gotta setup my room first so not in a huge huge rush.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> What damage?
> People get all huffy if the box isn't in pristine condition but the whole purpose of a box is to *protect* the contents.
> His monitor works perfectly and is pixel perfect. The box did its job. There is nothing to complain about.


My box had similar damage and the monitor has a dent in the bezel and doesn't work properly any more


----------



## treefiddy

It looks like the metal backed 27Q is being phased out and being replaced by the Blade model, and possibly the pivot version has already sold out at AW







A shame, as it's the best model if you don't need multi-inputs.

There's not been much mention of the pivot stand, but it is rather nice. BCC is now selling the stand on its own for US$89.99:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-Inch-2560x1440-Monitor-Pivot-Stand-Yamakasi-Achieva-Potalion-/140795611232
It has an easily adjustable spring mechanism like the Ergotron NeoFlex and doesn't require adjusting of levers or screws - the screw that you see in some pictures is misleading; it's just a retaining screw for transit and is meant to be removed before use. Lift, lower, tilt and rotate all require just gentle pressure and it's very hard to find a reasonably priced alternative adjustable stand.


----------



## Azefore

Well just got mine in half an hour ago and posting pics like I said. *Note: Terrible iPhone low light handling photos, didn't take out DSLR*

Packaging was pretty solid on outside, no rough housing, was as mint as a big package could be traveling international, same as my Cosmos II box


Inside was great, soft core thick foam, and an inch of bubble wrap between box wall and panel


Same letter others have gotten from Dream-seller


Sitting on my office couch while I inspect it, nothing major just upper left white metal bezel had small nick on it not even noticeable when in use


Powered on temporarily, checking for stuck/dead pixels and calibration (not pictured)


Stand is the cheapest darn thing I ever done see, it's warped making both the lcd panel twist back to the right and slump downward to the left. I plan on using MX wallmounts for this one and a second one I'm ordering today so it was my intention not to get the pivot version if it cost substantially more

Got it calibrated to match my Apple Cinema Display and happy to report no stuck or dead pixels anywhere, turned out to be a good purchase. The power brick is also remaining quite cool for an hour straight almost now.


----------



## barvybe

Thanks very helpful.
I have read the whole thread.

I'm asking a very specific question to people who purchased from him whether I should ask him anything specific at purchase time.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> It looks like the metal backed 27Q is being phased out and being replaced by the Blade model, and possibly the pivot version has already sold out at AW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A shame, as it's the best model if you don't need multi-inputs.
> There's not been much mention of the pivot stand, but it is rather nice. BCC is now selling the stand on its own for US$89.99:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-Inch-2560x1440-Monitor-Pivot-Stand-Yamakasi-Achieva-Potalion-/140795611232
> It has an easily adjustable spring mechanism like the Ergotron NeoFlex and doesn't require adjusting of levers or screws - the screw that you see in some pictures is misleading; it's just a retaining screw for transit and is meant to be removed before use. Lift, lower, tilt and otate all require just gentle pressure and it's very hard to find a reasonably priced alternative adjustable stand.


Dang theyre stilling the CrossOver LED-P stand? Awesome - kind of pricey though









I own the LED-P and i love the stand, very easy to adjust and still feels solid. I was going to order http://www.amazon.com/3M-Easy-Adjust-Monitor-Stand-MS110MB/dp/B0013CD0DI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1347903309&sr=8-10&keywords=monitor+stand with my 2B monitor, its about $30 and i *think* it doesnt require any adjustments to screws/levers


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Stand is the cheapest darn thing I ever done see, it's warped making both the lcd panel twist back to the right and slump downward to the left. I plan on using MX wallmounts for this one and a second one I'm ordering today so it was my intention not to get the pivot version if it cost substantially more
> Got it calibrated to match my Apple Cinema Display and happy to report no stuck or dead pixels anywhere, turned out to be a good purchase. The power brick is also remaining quite cool for an hour straight almost now.


thats a shame because LED-P's stand is sturdy as all get out.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> thats a shame because LED-P's stand is sturdy as all get out.


Not sure I understand the last part but like I said I don't have the pivot version lol and just put in my order for another non pivot from accessorieswhole


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Yeah. I found out eBay buyer protection covers something damaged during shipping, though, so I can probably get my money back. This was still a total disaster; if I get my money back, I'm going to get a Samsung PLS monitor instead.


Better bring your money! I'd kill for that S27B970D but its $1200!!!


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Better bring your money! I'd kill for that S27B970D but its $1200!!!


What? A Samsung PLS is $750 at Canada Computers.
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_700_1104&item_id=042094


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> What? A Samsung PLS is $750 at Canada Computers.
> http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_700_1104&item_id=042094


Wrong model that's the 850D, they're talking about the 970D
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824001565


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, the 850D is not nearly as nice looking as the 970D and $750 is still more than twice what a Crossover will run you...


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Yeah. I found out eBay buyer protection covers something damaged during shipping, though, so I can probably get my money back. This was still a total disaster; if I get my money back, I'm going to get a Samsung PLS monitor instead.
> 
> 
> 
> Better bring your money! I'd kill for that S27B970D but its $1200!!!
Click to expand...

IDK, I really think that monitor's bezel and stand is hideous.


----------



## Northstar

hmm should I be afraid in ordering from Dream Seller from the latest post I have seen here? Dream Seller is still selling for $362 and has them in stock... Acessorieswhole is out of stock or wants $999.00 LOL.. Any other good sellers out there? Red Cap or bigcloth maybe >?

Thanks !


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Northstar*
> 
> hmm should I be afraid in ordering from Dream Seller from the latest post I have seen here? Dream Seller is still selling for $362 and has them in stock... Acessorieswhole is out of stock or wants $999.00 LOL.. Any other good sellers out there? Red Cap or bigcloth maybe >?
> Thanks !


Latest post of getting a monitor from Dream-seller would be me lol, turned out great but I just ordered my second from AW just incase. I've heard people on this thread not have the greatest experience with red cap, also which model were you specifically looking to get?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> IDK, I really think that monitor's bezel and stand is hideous.


Bezel is alright but I'm with you on the stand, saw Linustechtips video on it and it wobbles with a slight breeze it seems like. Also you can't do vesa since everything is in the base of stand.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Yeah, the 850D is not nearly as nice looking as the 970D and $750 is still more than twice what a Crossover will run you...


I paid $350 for the monitor and $50 for the warranty, so it's a bit less than twice the price.

I would love to have that $1200 monitor, but $750 one still looks good. I don't want to go through anything like this again, so I will probably just settle on the 850D.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The 970D doesn't have a bezel. It's edge-to-edge tempered glass...


----------



## Northstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Latest post of getting a monitor from Dream-seller would be me lol, turned out great but I just ordered my second from AW just incase. I've heard people on this thread not have the greatest experience with red cap, also which model were you specifically looking to get?


Yeah I saw your post and you had good success with Dreamseller, but I was reading the ones before your post were Dreamseller was in the hospital (supposedly) and Dreamseller does not ship with insurance. I plan on getting the CrossOver 27Q LED-P version just in case I have to adjust it. I know you just got the basic stand and plan on doing the Vesa mount correct? I may do the same but If i get two LED-P I won't need that mount stand.. hehe


----------



## 3py0n

So looks like after studying through this entire thread, I'm going with AW









That is unless they are out of stock for a long time then I'll switch to either dream-seller or BCC...though I think it's shottier...

I just hope when AW gets stock again the price would be more than what they were selling for before









Or else due to my own indecisiveness/need to weigh everything out, I would've lost out on a good deal.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Not sure I understand the last part but like I said I don't have the pivot version lol and just put in my order for another non pivot from accessorieswhole


the led-p's stand is just sturdy as can be. no wobbles and holds and supports monitor great.


----------



## IcedEarth

I love the stand on my LED-P...I'm not sure if I would pay $90 for one though. I could have two awesome night outs for that much. Beer > monitor stand.


----------



## nisc24

Not sure if anyone else has had this issue, tried searching but didn't come up with much

I woke up yesterday morning, turned on my pc, and the screen on my crossover was black. The led was still blue, however, meaning it was recognized by the pc and had power.

I noticed an EXTREMELY faint picture on the monitor whenever it was a black screen (ie @ startup) but i could not get a picture.

I've had this for roughly 3 months or so now... I highly doubt shipping it back to korea is a possibility.

Anyone else had this problem and come up with a DIY solution? I'm guessing something inside the monitor is the culprit.


----------



## gchou

Art,

have you gotten a message back from Dream-seller yet?
I haven't gotten anything back from him, and it is making me a little worried.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gchou*
> 
> Art,
> have you gotten a message back from Dream-seller yet?
> I haven't gotten anything back from him, and it is making me a little worried.


He always responds to me by the next day, unless it is a weekend.

He sent me this:
Quote:


> Sorry for your all inconvenience.
> We will try our best to resolve this issue for you.


This doesn't fill me with confidence. I'd hoped that he would actually say what he is willing to do to remedy this. eBay buyer protection covers this, if he refuses me a refund, thankfully.


----------



## Garvani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nisc24*
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has had this issue, tried searching but didn't come up with much
> I woke up yesterday morning, turned on my pc, and the screen on my crossover was black. The led was still blue, however, meaning it was recognized by the pc and had power.
> I noticed an EXTREMELY faint picture on the monitor whenever it was a black screen (ie @ startup) but i could not get a picture.
> I've had this for roughly 3 months or so now... I highly doubt shipping it back to korea is a possibility.
> Anyone else had this problem and come up with a DIY solution? I'm guessing something inside the monitor is the culprit.


That sounds odd, it almost sounds like the backlight has gone, this used to happen with the old CCFL type lcd screens but led screens shouldn't have this problem. Hopefully its just an inverter (not even sure if these have them) has gone pop which shouldn't be a major.. Hopefully someone with actual experience with these screens can shed some light (no pun intended) on the situation..


----------



## NYdude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anticommon*
> 
> My thoughts exactly. This is also why I sought out a seller who did not feature 'pixel perfect' versions of this monitor. However they did have one that you could BIN for $344.80 and one where you could send an offer. I ended up paying #341.00 from lightn.space, and they have been pretty good so far... except for the fact that 5 days later it's still in korea.


Just joining this thread cause I finally got my crossover today. I bought it from lightnspace.. and had a similar experience, it sat in Korea for 7 days, but then was shipped by EMS, which was delivered via USPS express within 2 days. I bought the 27Q, but somehow I got the 27QD blade. Still trying to decide if I like this better or not (I know its listed for more on ebay). The speakers are crappy. But it is pixel perfect, and no noticeable light bleed and looks awesome till now. The base attachment is a bit wobbly. I bought it from this seller because s/he did not list any pixel perfect listing.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nisc24*
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has had this issue, tried searching but didn't come up with much
> I woke up yesterday morning, turned on my pc, and the screen on my crossover was black. The led was still blue, however, meaning it was recognized by the pc and had power.
> I noticed an EXTREMELY faint picture on the monitor whenever it was a black screen (ie @ startup) but i could not get a picture.
> I've had this for roughly 3 months or so now... I highly doubt shipping it back to korea is a possibility.
> Anyone else had this problem and come up with a DIY solution? I'm guessing something inside the monitor is the culprit.


Another member has suffered this problem as well.

Unfortunately your LED backlight has packed in.









It will unfortunately need returning.


----------



## ahhui90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nisc24*
> 
> Not sure if anyone else has had this issue, tried searching but didn't come up with much
> I woke up yesterday morning, turned on my pc, and the screen on my crossover was black. The led was still blue, however, meaning it was recognized by the pc and had power.
> I noticed an EXTREMELY faint picture on the monitor whenever it was a black screen (ie @ startup) but i could not get a picture.
> I've had this for roughly 3 months or so now... I highly doubt shipping it back to korea is a possibility.
> Anyone else had this problem and come up with a DIY solution? I'm guessing something inside the monitor is the culprit.


oh no.. last night my 27Q LED screen flickered for a bit.. when i power on today the screen is black. it recognises the signal from my graphic card since it changed to blue colour. I tested it with another monitor on the same port, it works fine but not the Crossover. I bought it from AW. What should i do now?


----------



## sebban

Got my Crossover yesterday. Works fine for about an hour or so, but then it just shuts down. Led blinking blue then red like there's no signal. Then the led is all blue like there's a signal but the screen just shows a black background. If i turn it off for a while and then start it up again it's working fine. Tested to different DVI cables and different DVI ports. Unscrew the back to look for loose cables but couldnt find any.
Any suggestion on what might be wrong? Overheating issue? Running Windows 7 with GTX 670.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well this is the latest video I've sent to red-cap trying to "prove" that I have a defective monitor. This is 1 of 3 (the second showing the dead backlight).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just shows the black dead monitor, then I take the camera flash and get very close and press the start button on the computer so you can see the start menu open/close.
> He still continues to drag his feet I don't know what else I can do just have to hope he comes around. Very frustrating that I might be out $350 after 45 days of owning this.


So redcap is now trying to get a replacement PCB for me. I feel as though he hasn't understood my messages and doesn't know that the backlight is dead but the panel still displays a barely visibly image. Perhaps my understanding is wrong but a new PCB isn't gonna do anything for a backlight. Should I try and explain this or might a new PCB help?


----------



## Karail

Could the backlight issue have something to do with the power brick? Does anyone of you who reported a problem have a multimeter (or a replacement brick) to test the pins of the brick. There is 2 sets of pins (4 pins in total). They should output 24 volts each.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> So redcap is now trying to get a replacement PCB for me. I feel as though he hasn't understood my messages and doesn't know that the backlight is dead but the panel still displays a barely visibly image. Perhaps my understanding is wrong but a new PCB isn't gonna do anything for a backlight. Should I try and explain this or might a new PCB help?


I don't know much about how these monitors work but i would expect the seller to tell me what is wrong with the monitor ( he has contacted the manufacturer who has pinpointed the possible cause of the problem). If red cap is just saying that hes going to send a pcb for you that seems a bit random to me.It is like he doesn't have a clue what is wrong with the monitor and sends you a pcb and hope it fixes the problem. I myself would require some more assurance that it is going to solve the problem.


----------



## tehpsyc

He said he's going to contact the manufacturer and try to get a PCB. I'm hoping the manufacturer will set him straight and tell him a PCB is not the issue here. I replied back to his latest message indicating that I don't think the PCB will solve anything, and tried to reiterate that in the last video I sent him you can see the panel is still working and displaying an image, buts only visible with a direct source of light applied (and just barely visible then) which means its a backlight issue. Unfortunately I think the language barrier is preventing better communication but I really don't want him to waste time and shipping money sending a PCB if its not going to solve anything. I think he's hoping that will fix it because then he won't have to replace the monitor or pay for return shipping etc, but ultimately its just gonna cost him additional money.

Unless I'm wrong and a dead PCB can cause backlight failure, but that seems unlikely to me.


----------



## stevewm

Its highly likely a component in the LED driver circuit died, replacing the PCB would fix this if that was the case. I just cannot see all the backlight LEDs dying simultaneously..


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevewm*
> 
> Its highly likely a component in the LED driver circuit died, replacing the PCB would fix this if that was the case. I just cannot see all the backlight LEDs dying simultaneously..


Ah I guess my understanding was incorrect then that makes a lot of sense thanks for setting me straight.


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> The 970D doesn't have a bezel. It's edge-to-edge tempered glass...


But isn't vesa mount compatible.

Even the ACD has a vesa mount for crying out loud...


----------



## C70T5

Got my Dell U2713HM today. Going to try it out tonight. After reading the problems on here its just made me feel even better to spend a bit extra on a premium model with a proper 3 year warranty. If any pixel was to ever become stuck/dead/bright then I get a new panel for free - that is an awesome warranty in my opinion.


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Got my Dell U2713HM today. Going to try it out tonight. After reading the problems on here its just made me feel even better to spend a bit extra on a premium model with a proper 3 year warranty. If any pixel was to ever become stuck/dead/bright then I get a new panel for free - that is an awesome warranty in my opinion.


Sounds like a great panel, especially with a semi gloss coating.

Problem is that I've heard of weird criss cross hatching on the panel itself, plus image retention.

You really can't win with 27" 1440p monitors.


----------



## treefiddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Got my Dell U2713HM today. Going to try it out tonight. After reading the problems on here its just made me feel even better to spend a bit extra on a premium model with a proper 3 year warranty. If any pixel was to ever become stuck/dead/bright then I get a new panel for free - that is an awesome warranty in my opinion.


Hi, That isn't quite true about Dell's pixel policy. There are still tolerances within which pixel faults are still considered acceptable.
Have a read of this:
http://support.dell.com/support/topics/global.aspx/support/kcs/document?docid=414288


----------



## doe3879

I just got my 27" led-p today. Haven't notice any dead pixel at the time. But there is one major problem with it.
There a piece of dust stuck inside the screen? Anyone know how can I at least move it to a less noticeable place?


----------



## Descadent

gently tap it and maybe it might fall.


----------



## gchou

I have a major issue. My screen contains two lines and now it's completely red. Please look at the screenshot below. I only have this monitor for 2 days. I tried to send messages to dream-seller, but all I get is his automatic message saying his staff member being in hospital.

What should I do?



http://imgur.com/ArSln




http://imgur.com/33Bq2


----------



## doe3879

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> gently tap it and maybe it might fall.


just tried it
: ( didn't work.

I heard suction might be able to move it, but have no info on it.


----------



## Garvani

I have yet to receive my monitor, from all the horror storys of the last couple of pages im wondering if it was such a good idea ordering one now! Hopefully i get a good one that lasts longer than 2 months


----------



## IcedEarth

It seems that with the increased demand, the quality of the product has tanked.

The manufacturers are probably cutting corners in order to meet demand. Fingers crossed my 27Q stays strong!


----------



## punceh

it looks like a lightning bug to me, i had a couple in my old 19". i dont think there really is a way to get rid of em once their dead other than opening your screen and physically remove it (im guessing yours is dead?) if it aint dead yet put a bright lamp next to your screen and turn the screen off for a good 2-3 hours. thats how i got rid of a couple at least


----------



## C70T5

Used my new Dell 2713HM monitor today - its factory calibrated right out of the box with an amazing stand and build quality.

The bad part is that the matte screen is nowhere near as beautiful as glossy screen on the crossovers. I suppose for office type work the matte screen is less tiring on the eyes, but if you want an Apple cinema display clone then the crossover is still the closest I think.

I will keep the Dell just because I need Displayport to connect to a laptop and the warranty. I'd seriously recommend it and prefer it to the Samsung 850D PLS monitor, but I still have a soft spot for these Crossovers.


----------



## treefiddy

^^The build and stand of the Dell does look good. Review with pics please!


----------



## Azefore

Second crossover made it to Anchorage AK in 24 hours after order, didn't get first shipped out for 48 hours, guess the $50 extra with AW makes a large difference


----------



## nisc24

it seems like you have the same problem i and that other poster have...

sucks that you aren't having any success getting a replacement. we might have to turn to a DIY fix


----------



## trippinonprozac

Hey guys,

Just received my perfect pixel Crossover and I am blown away by the image sharpness and colours. I am coming from a Samsung S27A750D so dropping from 120hz is taking a lot of getting used to.

I play a lot of BF3 and although it looks amazing at 1440p and the FPS are mostly well over 60fps I find that it feels laggy and choppy.

I have played around a bit with vsync and also Nvidias pre-rendered frames and found that setting the NVIDIA control panel to a single pre-rendered frame along with no vsync gave me a more responsive game.

Does anyone have tips on how to get the best out of this panel when it comes to gaming?

For the record, I only find the lag noticable in a game like BF3. Guild Wars 2 feels fine.


----------



## DarK_MischieF

Got my *Crossover 27Q LED-P* from seller _goodforum_! Price was $324 + $50 shipping.

I purchased it on Thursday (9/13), it was shipped on Friday (9/14) and arrived on Monday (9/17). There seemed to be no problems at customs (Alaska?) and it made its voyage swiftly. I wasn't home for the pickup and FedEx left a note since a signature was required. I requested online that the package be held at the local FedEx and was able to get it the same day. Here's what my tracking info looked like:

Very pleased with shipping speed and time.









Now onto the monitor- they say pictures are worth 1000 words, so here we go:

I had already ripped open the heavy-duty gray plastic wrapping, but I put it back on for the picture

















Box was a little beat up, but in pretty good shape- its whats inside that counts, eh?









Monitor was very snug inside the packaging- there was a cardboard sheet with alot of bubble wrap on the screen side.









The included accessories- I stuck the gift universal travel adapter in there too for good measure.









The power brick- looks to be the same one the Catleap owner gets- 110-240V Welltronics WTS-2405W









The power cable- definitely not a US plug!









The travel adapter has an assortment of plugs. Was given as a gift by the seller. Comes with a travel pouch (similar to PSU bags).

















The question to which I could not find an answer to- yes it came with a Dual-Link DVI cable (male to male)!









The manual- goes over the included accessories and where the buttons are.









The monitor out of the box









Most of the packaging gone









It really is metal- quite heavy and cool to the touch. No dings or scrapes!









Shot of the monitor label









Backlight + | Backlight - | Power | LED









The buttons- far left is Power, the two closer together are for the brightness.









The stand- does pivot, tilt, swivel. Height adjustment appears to be locked by default, might need to loosen the screw.









Yay it works!









Didn't get that much time with it but I can say that it is *gorgeous*. It _dwarfs_ my Dell U2311H (23'', e-IPS, 1080P) in both physical size and resolution- 1440P is no joke (78% more pixels than 1080P!). Was never a big fan of glossy displays (Macbook Pros.. eeeuk), but with the Crossover things look *extremely vibrant and detailed*- definitely prefer it over the anti-glare coating on the Dell. The room is pretty dim, however, maybe glare could be a bigger problem with overhead fluorescents.

The monitor is in great shape- no shipping damage (other than a little bit of dust on the surface) and from what I can tell there are *zero dead / stuck pixels*. I will run tests though to confirm officially. Calibration is a little off- a little *yellow*, but I only noticed it when compared to my calibrated Dell. I put the brightness all the way down- still pretty bright. You can tell because the LED blinks purple when you change the brightness, I just held the BL - button until the LED stopped blinking.

Power brick seems fine- a little green LED turns on when it receives power. With my brightness at the lowest, the brick stayed *cool to the touch* and didn't make any noises after a few hours of use.

Was disappointed to find that my 460 SLI *could not run 3 displays while keeping SLI*. To activate all monitorrs, SLI gets disabled. To do Surround (SLI remains enabled), all monitors have to be the same resolution. I have 1x 1440p and 2x 1080p monitors so that didn't work, but to my understanding 7680x1440 (3x 2650x1440) or 5670x1080 (3x 1920x1080) should work. If I'm not mistaken the GTX 6xxs and Radeon 79xxs can have their outputs active with displays without a need for an Active Displayport adapter like the Radeon 5xxxs- guess its nearly time to upgrade

Need to do more testing, but 1GB 460 SLI (820/1850) could handle 1440p maxed out Dota 2 no problem.

I will definitely get more pictures of the monitor in action when I can- just wanted to get the shipping and preliminary stuff up and some as soon as I could. Input lag, calibration, backlight bleed all coming soon!

Overall, a *very strong first impression*- beautiful color, solid build quality, and a very reasonable price point. Just gotta hope it'll stay this way for a few years!


----------



## Gloomfrost

To the guys with issues: At least you have your monitors!











Long story short: (not that short, but trust me, it's actually 3 weeks worth of hassle!)
The customs officer originally rejected the stated value and it being a gift. (Btw, the 'gift' thing doesn't apply for this type of import in Canada, next time, you don't NEED to request it being a gift as customs doesn't treat it as such anyway).
DHL contacted me requesting some forms filled out stating 'proper value'. Contacted BCC, after 2 days + a weekend in between, he finally sent me his seller's invoice which of course did NOT go over well with DHL, they wanted my bank statement as proof.
I wanted to self-clear it originally btw, so I requested the commercial invoice as well as accompanying docs from DHL. Ended up calling some CBSA (customs) offices and apparently (contrary to my research), you NEED to go to in person to the port of entry (Hamilton in this case) if you want to self-clear it. Because of the small value (and relatively low brokerage prices DHL charges (vs. UPS for example (2.5% of customs fees/minimum of $10)), I finally gave up trying to self-clear it and let DHL do it.
That's not so easy though, as they were supposed to send forms in last week, and said they did, but then after 4 days I contacted them again and they said 'they'll send them again', which I found suspicious so later that day I contacted Hamilton customs who said they JUST received them for the first time, and already cleared them (that was impressive, as DHL said 24-72 hours). I'm thinking DHL is the culprit here, as customs can obviously clear it within a day no problem. Finally confirmed with DHL that they received the clearance forms, the package should finally be shipping out tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed for a) a good monitor, and b) no more delays!!

Pro-tips (probably only relevant to Canadian readers):
1) If you don't live near the port of entry (where the package is received to be processed by customs), don't bother trying to self-clear unless you want to drive out there.
2) Keep in touch with your shipping company (DHL, in my case), they didn't call me back 3 out of the 4 times when they NEEDED to call me for further action/progress! I had to keep calling them almost daily to make sure they were progressing accordingly. I became pretty close buddies (sarcasm) with their 5 (or so) brokerage staff working out of Hamilton. Thank god for toll-free!
3) Customs in Hamilton (I live in Toronto), isn't toll-free, only call them when you absolutely have to! Also, their number is hard to find because they don't like being called, but they're pretty nice, just be courteous and respectful as you should always be.

Will post pics of the actual monitor tomorrow hopefully when I finally get it!!


----------



## doe3879

Never mind, there was the FULL Screen , or No scaling option in my video card driver.
I never touch those, don't know how it got changed

_I need help, the monitor suddenly stop scaling. It black border the screen instead of stretching it. It also happens within games (which is a big problem) when I lower the resolution.
I just got the monitor today, It was fine when I was 1st testing out the solution settings. I remember it changing from stretched to black border when I change between 59hz and 60z..
But right now I'm trying all the settings and I can't get it to stretch when lowering solution._


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Used my new Dell 2713HM monitor today - its factory calibrated right out of the box with an amazing stand and build quality.
> The bad part is that the matte screen is nowhere near as beautiful as glossy screen on the crossovers. I suppose for office type work the matte screen is less tiring on the eyes, but if you want an Apple cinema display clone then the crossover is still the closest I think.
> I will keep the Dell just because I need Displayport to connect to a laptop and the warranty. I'd seriously recommend it and prefer it to the Samsung 850D PLS monitor, but I still have a soft spot for these Crossovers.


You should see Samsung's 970D PLS. It's glossy and has about the best picture I've ever seen. Too bad it's north of $1k...


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> You should see Samsung's 970D PLS. It's glossy and has about the best picture I've ever seen. Too bad it's north of $1k...


Too bad it has no bloody god damn VESA mount aiuhasdiuasddasugdydfg

I want one, but that's a dealbreaker. >(


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

True, but the guts in the base allow the panel itself to be ultra thin. I mean, it's as thin as an iPhone...


----------



## ahhui90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> oh no.. last night my 27Q LED screen flickered for a bit.. when i power on today the screen is black. it recognises the signal from my graphic card since it changed to blue colour. I tested it with another monitor on the same port, it works fine but not the Crossover. I bought it from AW. What should i do now?


what should i try to do? i have a little knowledge in electronics but not sure if i should open it up. ive contacted AW already..


----------



## nisc24

im holding off on doing anything for now

going to contact the seller tomorrow


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> what should i try to do? i have a little knowledge in electronics but not sure if i should open it up. ive contacted AW already..


I'd wait until AW answers. Not much you can do till you know what's wrong with the monitor. I bought my monitor from AW too so i'm eager to know how they respond.


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> True, but the guts in the base allow the panel itself to be ultra thin. I mean, it's as thin as an iPhone...


Not worth the flimsy stand and the fact you can't get the monitor off the desk, especially at this price range.

You'd be better off just getting a NEC or something.


----------



## MisterA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> what should i try to do? i have a little knowledge in electronics but not sure if i should open it up. ive contacted AW already..


Be sure to get a good DVI-D dual link cable. My screen went black once every minute for a few seconds while using the original cable that came with it. I thought the screen was defective, but luckily I bought a high quality DVI-D cable (about 35€ for a gold plated one). With the new cable, my screen now works perfectly!

I actually bought two extra cables: one from Ebay that cost about 7$, and then the one mentioned above. The one from Ebay didn't work either although it was listed as 'high quality' and goldplated. I suggest you go in a shop and look around for a decent cable.


----------



## Northstar

Thanks DarK_MischieF for your review.. I think I will go ahead and try your seller..


----------



## C70T5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> Sounds like a great panel, especially with a semi gloss coating.
> Problem is that I've heard of weird criss cross hatching on the panel itself, plus image retention.
> You really can't win with 27" 1440p monitors.


You are correct, I do have the very VERY subtle criss-cross hatch on some light backgrounds. Don't have image retention yet because I haven't left an image to burn in yet. I do have the same backlight bleed as others on the left of the monitor.

Frankly given the lack of choice for decent 27 inch monitors that are somewhat affordable, I'll just stick with this. I've had enough of trying to get a decent one.


----------



## farstar

Received my "Pixel Perfect" 2720MDP yesterday from Dream Seller. He doesn't bubble-wrap his boxes like the other sellers (AW BCC). Fortunately the box showed no damage. Unfortunately the monitor flickers a lot when connected to my Windows 7 machine with a GT670 and only slightly less when connected to my Ubuntu machine running a GT520. I too a video and sent a link to Dream Seller only to receive the canned response about his being in the hospital. I tried multiple DVI cables and power supplies from my other working monitors. The problem stayed with this new monitor

Funny that they had enough staff on hand to take my purchase and ship it. If I do not hear back from him in another day I think I will begin an official dispute with Ebay.


----------



## barvybe

Well I have just purchased from AcessoriesWhole.
Will post info as I receive it.

QUESTION: has anyone ever considered adding a Square Trade warranty? Offered through eBay at checkout for 3 years. 30 days to add warranty from purchase data.

- P


----------



## jrf1004

I recently purchased a Vapor-X HD 7970 from Newegg and I am having trouble getting the card to display on my Crossover 27Q. After setting up my new PC using a VGA connection to my TV, I downloaded and Installed all four driver packages that were listed under the download section for this card on the Sapphire website. I then was able to plug my HDMI cable to the video card and it recognized it correctly as a 1080p display. My problem is that I want to use a single 2560x1440 Crossover 27Q monitor but when I plug in the dual link DVI-D cable from the monitor to the video card it will not display.

In the catalyst control center, I go to "desktop management" then "creating and arranging desktops" and it recognizes both displays however only the TV is enabled and when I hold my mouse over the second display it says "QHD27Q, DFP, DVI disabled". I click the small black arrow in the top right corner and my options are "Extend" or "Replace". When I click extend it says the following: "This operation is not supported based on current display configuration". Clicking on Replace makes the Apply button flash green and then return to normal.

Two other things to note are that the monitor light is an amber color which indicates that the monitor is on but not receiving a signal. Also, if I unplug the DVI-D connection, I hear the familiar device disconnected noise through my TV speakers since the HDMI cable is carrying the audio.

I would appreciate any help resolving this issue. Thanks.


----------



## Azefore

Not sure if this is news to anyone but I'm seeing 3020mdp models now at 2560x1600 on eBay, did a search of model on overclock here and nothing showed up that's relevant

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CROSSOVER-3020MDP-30-SPEAKER-MONITOR-WQHD-2560x1600-16-10-HIGH-RESOLUTION-/320878448917?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab5d89115


----------



## Northstar

I just purchased one from goodforum.... I'm a little nervous now! haha!!


----------



## DarK_MischieF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Northstar*
> 
> I just purchased one from goodforum.... I'm a little nervous now! haha!!


Before you came along it seems that I was the first and only person to purchase from him. I had a great experience- the monitor is simply fantastic, shipping was quick, and I believe his listing was the cheapest in the Top-Rated Seller category.

Let me know how it goes and best of luck!


----------



## Azefore

K just got two boxes of goodies from FedEx, same quality pics entail as last update

Bubble wrapped box as I seen to become expected of AW


Box underneath is more mint than the unbubblewrapped one I got earlier


The bandanas...


Letter of quality and such, nice to see


Sitting and inspecting


Accessories and the free plug adapter as described if you don't have spare US cord


Dogs aren't showing the same enthusiasm as me lol


Second crossover sitting next to ACD for pixel testing and calibration


Second package contained these guys, so I'm off to installing after I post this


Happy to report my second purchase has no dead or stuck pixels again and the stand is in better shape than the first
Bought on the 17th and delivered in CT on the 19th, great shipping from AW indeed


----------



## b0z0

As soon as I get my BenQ sold. I'll be purchasing one of these monitors. What's the best model so far? Just the single Dual link dvi with adjustable stand?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jrf1004*
> 
> I recently purchased a Vapor-X HD 7970 from Newegg and I am having trouble getting the card to display on my Crossover 27Q. After setting up my new PC using a VGA connection to my TV, I downloaded and Installed all four driver packages that were listed under the download section for this card on the Sapphire website. I then was able to plug my HDMI cable to the video card and it recognized it correctly as a 1080p display. My problem is that I want to use a single 2560x1440 Crossover 27Q monitor but when I plug in the dual link DVI-D cable from the monitor to the video card it will not display.
> In the catalyst control center, I go to "desktop management" then "creating and arranging desktops" and it recognizes both displays however only the TV is enabled and when I hold my mouse over the second display it says "QHD27Q, DFP, DVI disabled". I click the small black arrow in the top right corner and my options are "Extend" or "Replace". When I click extend it says the following: "This operation is not supported based on current display configuration". Clicking on Replace makes the Apply button flash green and then return to normal.
> Two other things to note are that the monitor light is an amber color which indicates that the monitor is on but not receiving a signal. Also, if I unplug the DVI-D connection, I hear the familiar device disconnected noise through my TV speakers since the HDMI cable is carrying the audio.
> I would appreciate any help resolving this issue. Thanks.


Have you had display working correctly on the CrossOver with another video card? If not - might be the cable. I am running the CrossOver LED-P with my XFX Core 7970 w/ supplied dual link dvi cable from Greensum.


----------



## bestbright

Has anyone tried hooking two of these panels up to one pc on the cheap? You would think something like this card would be sufficient but I've read that a lot of these cards with two dual-link dvi ports cannot, in fact, drive two dual-link displays simultaneously.

I guess you could get two cheap cards, but it seems like a waste...


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bestbright*
> 
> Has anyone tried hooking two of these panels up to one pc on the cheap? You would think something like this card would be sufficient but I've read that a lot of these cards with two dual-link dvi ports cannot, in fact, drive two dual-link displays simultaneously.
> I guess you could get two cheap cards, but it seems like a waste...


I think it would be pushing itself pretty far to drive just one when under a bit of load. 2 would be pushing it. I don't even think it's supported by these monitors. You need certain levels of power just to have these displays give you a picture IIRC.


----------



## Azefore

Currently in between classes ATM but figure Id post this, always check screw length when VESA mounting the 27q, I used the four screws provided with the ergotron mx and they went in without extra force required but when I went to plug in the power bricks for both the monitors the green light died and faint crackling insued.

Turns out the screws went and made contact with the blue PCB and shorted out the connections. Double checked the monitors after I took them off the wallmounts and they were aye ok. My fault and stupidness for that since I didn't refer to the manual but just thought I'd pass on the warning. Got 8 new screws before I went to class so I should be set, looks awesome when it was setup though lol.


----------



## bestbright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> always check screw length when VESA mounting the 27q, I used the four screws provided with the ergotron mx and they went in without extra force required but when I went to plug in the power bricks for both the monitors the green light died and faint crackling insued.


Same thing happened to me. This should be mentioned in the first post.


----------



## matisto27

Hey can someone tell me the best settings to set with nvidia card for this crossover screen
brightness contrast gamma digital vibrance tint and such
thanks
ps: i ask this because i have a slight yellowness tint at the bottom of my screen :/
could i do a calibrate ?


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bestbright*
> 
> Has anyone tried hooking two of these panels up to one pc on the cheap? You would think something like this card would be sufficient but *I've read that a lot of these cards with two dual-link dvi ports cannot, in fact, drive two dual-link displays simultaneously.*
> I guess you could get two cheap cards, but it seems like a waste...


Why would it not work? The specs show max digital res of 2560x1600. This is adequate for 2 of these monitors.

Where did you read this?

I suppose some here assume that all video cards are only used for gaming.


----------



## bestbright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> Why would it not work? The specs show max digital res of 2560x1600. This is adequate for 2 of these monitors.


Yeah, I would think so too, although one of the reviews on that card said it didn't actually support two dual-link monitors at the same time.

I have one of these which has a DVI port and an HDMI port. I guess it might work with HDMI->DVI adapter, but I wouldn't bet on it.


----------



## Azefore

Got the two crossovers setup, not sure if I like portrait with the limitations of Nvidia surround since they all have to be physically orientated the same way and not alternates like I was thinking with the crossovers and their thinner top bezel. In any case I'll post more tomorrow after I get out of work but here's the first screenie (haven't played a lot if your looking at level lol)


----------



## Tephnos

Sounds good man, will be eagerly awaiting the response PM.


----------



## nisc24

i actually had not considered this... perhaps the problem isn't with the backlight but with the cable?

either way it'd be a much cheaper fix than shipping it back to the seller... anyone who was having the problem with a blacked out screen have an extra dual link dvi cable they can try?

i don't have any laying around to test it


----------



## Methoxetamine

Did accessorieswhole just raise the price of the 27Q LED-P to $999?










http://www.ebay.com/itm/110869169169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

What the ****.

Ironically, they haven't sold any yet at that price.


----------



## computerdeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methoxetamine*
> 
> Did accessorieswhole just raise the price of the 27Q LED-P to $999?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/110869169169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> What the ****.
> Ironically, they haven't sold any yet at that price.


Yes because they are out of stock.


----------



## computerdeth

double post


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Well I have just purchased from AcessoriesWhole.
> Will post info as I receive it.
> QUESTION: has anyone ever considered adding a Square Trade warranty? Offered through eBay at checkout for 3 years. 30 days to add warranty from purchase data.
> - P


Already shipped via Fed Ex.
Received very professional message from AW - one through eBay and the other in response to the message sent with the order.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methoxetamine*
> 
> Did accessorieswhole just raise the price of the 27Q LED-P to $999?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/110869169169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> What the ****.
> Ironically, they haven't sold any yet at that price.


Guess you didn't see the *BIG RED OUT OF STOCK*


----------



## matisto27

can someone give me some good color profiles for this screen crossover 27Q LED-P


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> can someone give me some good color profiles for this screen crossover 27Q LED-P


http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm


----------



## DarK_MischieF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/icc_profiles/crossover_27q_led-p.icm


This profile seems to do well for the blue-heavy Crossovers as mentioned by earlier adopters. Unfortunately, mine (and other more recent samples) seems to be more yellow and because of that this profile doesn't help







.

I have been using the Windows calibrator to some effect and on a related note F.lux really behaves strangely with the Crossover.


----------



## tehpsyc

Red-cap is gonna be sending me a replacement PCB for my crossover, and I'm just wondering if there' any guides out there on replacing one of these things for any of the Korean IPS displays? I searched around but haven't turned up anything. Am I gonna need to do some soldering or anything along those lines? I've seen PCB swaps mentioned quite a bit but no one seems to have any instructions or guides.


----------



## gumby510

Looking to pick one of these up here soon, was looking at the 2720mp. Is it worth the money to spend an extra 180$ to buy one from dream-seller that says its pixel perfect? Or just go with one for 400-450 and try my luck?

thx


----------



## ahhui90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Red-cap is gonna be sending me a replacement PCB for my crossover, and I'm just wondering if there' any guides out there on replacing one of these things for any of the Korean IPS displays? I searched around but haven't turned up anything. Am I gonna need to do some soldering or anything along those lines? I've seen PCB swaps mentioned quite a bit but no one seems to have any instructions or guides.


u mean red-cap is very sure that the pcb is the cause of dead backlight problem? i guess you could take a picture of it and post here. I'll try to help


----------



## b0z0

Has anyone ordered from ta_planet. If so, how was your experience.


----------



## gumby510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from ta_planet. If so, how was your experience.


This seller is my first choice and dream is my second.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Voltage-Pixel-Perfect-CROSSOVER-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-27-Speaker-DVI-HDMI-/330766755896?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d033c2838


----------



## ahhui90

hey guys, here is what AW told me, what do you guys think?
Quote:


> Sorry for the late response.
> 
> However, you've been using monitor over 2 months, we could only provide repair service up to 1 year as on the product description.
> For the full refund/exchange can be only done within 30 days from purchased date.
> 
> What we could do will be, if you are willing to pay round way shipping charge, we can send new replacement to you.
> or, if you make one way shipping charge, and ship your monitor back to us, we could provide repair service.
> 
> Sorry to make you upset and to be in such an inconveneience, but that will be the best way we could do.


----------



## C70T5

Sadly my fellow pixel lovers, the Dell U2713HM has to be sent back due to the criss-cross hatchet issue on the screen. Its really very subtle but its there and if you do notice it then it never goes away! Also if you do graphic design work then it will make it appear as if you've applied it as a background effect when really theres nothing there. This is especially difficult to work with when you're doing concepts which use just blocks of pastel colors to make up a webpage.

Stick to the Crossovers, they're pretty damn good for what they are.


----------



## matisto27

Hey DarK_MischieF my crossover has also a yellowish tint in it
Wich color profile should i use to make it less yellowness ?


----------



## treefiddy

Just received my Crossover 2720MDP from AW and it seems I've struck gold! Only 5 working days from S Korea to UK and it's perfect.









To the person who has a black screen, have you tried another cable and checked the settings on your pc? I have one cheap "Dual link" DVI cable that actually has "HDMI" marked on its length and I don't think all the pins are actually wired up.







On another monitor with a DVI to HDMI adapter, the screen would black out as the graphics card would switch modes and the signal would not be recognised. Do you have a computer shop near you that might be able to help diagnose the fault and offer a repair? - it might be cheaper than sending to S Korea. It's unfortunate that you have to pay return carriage, but it's not an uncommon practice. Hope you get it sorted.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> hey guys, here is what AW told me, what do you guys think?


that's exactly their policy.


----------



## DarK_MischieF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> Hey DarK_MischieF my crossover has also a yellowish tint in it
> Wich color profile should i use to make it less yellowness ?


The Crossover profile available on TFT makes my panel white balance extremely warm (looks like 2700-3000K), so I assume the earlier variants had a tendency to be too blue.
Unfortunately I do not have a hardware calibrator (unlike the one made on TFTCentral) so I had to use Window's built-in color calibrator to fix it up as best I could. It does look better in my opinion.

*Here* it is-

- Red / Green levels down, Blue down a little- result is more accurate color.
- Lower brightness for monitor (hold BL - until LED does not flash magenta). Going a little bit above minimum increases contrast noticeably without adding too much eye strain.

To install (Windows 7)
- Download file
- Start Menu
- Search "color"
- Open "Color Management"
- Click "All Profiles" tab
- Click Add
- Browse to directory and double click profile
- Click "Devices"
- Tick "Use my settings for this device"
- Add profile (check under "File name" if its hard).

You can see the before/after changes by ticking "Use my Settings" on and off.


----------



## Gloomfrost

So, update. Good and bad news.

Good news, got the monitor finally after 3 weeks (2 of which it was lost by DHL and customs). Also good news, it arrived in good condition and i did quite a few lookovers, didn't notice any stuck or dead pixels. Backlight bleed is minimal as well. Just a little from the bottom right near the LED power light as others have noted.

BAD news. Found this gem. I know someone found something like this earlier, did you manage to fix it!?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

^ The close-up of that actually looks kind of provocative, lmao


----------



## CaptainChaos

We've heard of Burn-in, this is Porn-in.


----------



## matisto27

hey DarK_MischieF is it less yellowness now with your profile ? can only test it later
Or otherwise someone can give me good profile wich does best for the least yellowness thanks


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> So, update. Good and bad news.
> Good news, got the monitor finally after 3 weeks (2 of which it was lost by DHL and customs). Also good news, it arrived in good condition and i did quite a few lookovers, didn't notice any stuck or dead pixels. Backlight bleed is minimal as well. Just a little from the bottom right near the LED power light as others have noted.
> BAD news. Found this gem. I know someone found something like this earlier, did you manage to fix it!?


I see bleed from all 4 corners. Definitely not "minimal" in my prospective. Bet it will be much worse in a dark room.


----------



## braveblade

I see bleed from all 4 corners, especially up left and bottom right . Definitely not "minimal" in my prospective. Bet it will be much worse in a dark room.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I see bleed from all 4 corners, especially up left and bottom right . Definitely not "minimal" in my prospective. Bet it will be much worse in a dark room.


I know it looks like that, but it's just the way my phone camera auto-balanced it, because of that artifact, without it, it would've been much more neutral. Perceptually, I can barely tell.

Anyway, what is this even called? Should I try a different DVI cable or it is unrelated?


----------



## strap624

I just ordered one from TA_planet. Can't wait.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> I know it looks like that, but it's just the way my phone camera auto-balanced it, because of that artifact, without it, it would've been much more neutral. Perceptually, I can barely tell.
> Anyway, what is this even called? Should I try a different DVI cable or it is unrelated?


pressure mark? or something like that?
Most of the korean sellers promise to check the screen before ship. If it's true, how come they shipped you a monitor with such obvious defeat? Do they actually check the screen, or they just have bad eyesight?


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> pressure mark? or something like that?
> Most of the korean sellers promise to check the screen before ship. If it's true, how come they shipped you a monitor with such obvious defeat? Do they actually check the screen, or they just have bad eyesight?


I'm wondering the same thing, I ordered from BCC. He's the one that capitalizes the most on the 'checks'. I e-mailed him this afternoon when I got this, hopefully he replies.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> I know it looks like that, but it's just the way my phone camera auto-balanced it, because of that artifact, without it, it would've been much more neutral. Perceptually, I can barely tell.
> Anyway, what is this even called? Should I try a different DVI cable or it is unrelated?


I remember there was another person who had something like that and over time that started to disappear. He had a large circle of dead pixels that revived themselves somehow and he was left with none.

See if massaging the pixels does anything.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> u mean red-cap is very sure that the pcb is the cause of dead backlight problem? i guess you could take a picture of it and post here. I'll try to help


I don't think he's absolutely sure its the PCB, and neither am I, I just think he wants to avoid having to pay to ship the monitor back and sending a new one. However, it was pointed out by someone on thiis thread that the dead backlight is unlikely the result of the bulb dying because there are several of them and they wouldn't all die at once, and its most likely the LED controller on the PCB that failed, not the backlight itself. So, I'm trying to be hopeful. I will try and take pictures and put together a guide as I do the replacement since there isn't one currently. Still waiting for red-cap to get the replacement PCB, then ship it over here though so its gonna be a little before I get to try.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I remember there was another person who had something like that and over time that started to disappear. He had a large circle of dead pixels that revived themselves somehow and he was left with none.
> See if massaging the pixels does anything.


Are you talking about Takao? He only made that one post. I messaged him, haven't gotten a reply yet.
Also, they're not 'dead' because the pixels themselves show everything but black.
Tried massaging for like 2 minutes, no change.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> Are you talking about Takao? He only made that one post. I messaged him, haven't gotten a reply yet.
> Also, they're not 'dead' because the pixels themselves show everything but black.
> Tried massaging for like 2 minutes, no change.


Hm...I thought they were dead.

I would probably try to get a replacement.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Hm...I thought they were dead.
> I would probably try to get a replacement.


Think BCC will send me a new one free of charge? It might be cheaper for him than to pay for my return shipping (according to his ebay returns policy)...
These monitors can be picked up for like $150 in SK.

Has anyone shipped their monitor back successfully? How much was it?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> Think BCC will send me a new one free of charge? It might be cheaper for him than to pay for my return shipping (according to his ebay returns policy)...
> These monitors can be picked up for like $150 in SK.
> Has anyone shipped their monitor back successfully? How much was it?


Possibly. You'll have to ask.


----------



## 7RED7

I think I'm going with Crossover instead of Catleap or Shimian (unless there's a very good reason to go with one of the others right now) because it sounds like I won't have to replace the base, the white trim will match my corsair 600t white case, and I I like the led-p version's ability to rotate.

There seem to be a ton of these on ebay.

Are there some specific sellers who are very reliable that I should be looking at? Also, I thought I saw a mention on reddit of overclock.net selling the monitors. That sounded odd to me as I thought Overclock.net was mostly about discussion and articles, but is it true?


----------



## nisc24

thanks,

he emailed me back as well asking for a video of the problem

so i'm assuming i'll get a similar response to yours


----------



## ahhui90

AW was telling me to either ship it back for repair or pay 2 ways shipping for a new set. I'm trying to ask for the replacement pcb, gotta wait till Monday for them to reply :/


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7RED7*
> 
> I think I'm going with Crossover instead of Catleap or Shimian (unless there's a very good reason to go with one of the others right now) because it sounds like I won't have to replace the base, the white trim will match my corsair 600t white case, and I I like the led-p version's ability to rotate.
> There seem to be a ton of these on ebay.
> Are there some specific sellers who are very reliable that I should be looking at? Also, I thought I saw a mention on reddit of overclock.net selling the monitors. That sounded odd to me as I thought Overclock.net was mostly about discussion and articles, but is it true?


There was someone who was looking into a 'group buy' for these monitors on OCN but it never came to fruition.

Recommended sellers:

AccessoriesWhole
BigClothCraft (I bought two from this seller)
Redcap
Green_sum

There are a few more too but these are all I can remember off the top of my head.


----------



## 7RED7

Thank you Iced Earth. Someone else recommended AccessoriesWhole as well so that's probably what I'll be going with. Wish me luck









This is the one I'm thinking of going with: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-P-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972654818?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a8838e2

It mentioned something about being a by-pass and not having an AD board. Is that a problem?

Also, the seller offers a small adapter for US plugs. Would I still need to buy an actual power supply in case there frequency/volt/amp differences?


----------



## IcedEarth

That's the price I paid for my two LED-P's a month ago. The Blade has built in speakers which mine doesn't have.









I would definitely recommend one!

I'm not sure what this AD board is referring to. I never had to research such a thing.

The PSU (Welltronics) is pretty good, mine doesn't get too hot and it hasn't failed once. It works at both 230V (UK) and 110V (US) so you don't need to do anything.

The adapter plug is very cheap and my monitor would keep turning on and off when I knocked it, most probably a dodgy termination inside the adapter.

I simply used a UK kettle lead instead. You will be able to simply swap the EU lead and adapter for a standard US kettle lead that plugs directly into the Welltronics power brick. I recommend doing this rather than using the low quality adapter.









So no you don't need to buy another power brick, but I do recommend replacing the supplied lead for a US kettle lead so that you don't need to use the adapter.

I hope this helps.

EDIT:

It's worth noting that most documented Crossover purchases came with a Dual Link DVI cable, so there's no need to purchase one of those either.









Some people have had issues with the supplied cable but mine work perfectly.


----------



## 7RED7

Thanks. I will take note of the kettle lead if I have any issues.


----------



## TechnoChocolate

I ordered a CrossOver 27Q LED-P from *dream-seller* for $447 on September 13th. It arrived on September 18th. (The price has since gone up to $457.)

When it arrived, it was *missing the power adapter*, so I haven't been able to test the monitor yet. I sent a message to dream-seller asking them to ship me one, and got an automatic reply about their customer service person being in the hospital until the 30th. Correspondingly, I *haven't gotten a reply yet*.

The *box was torn* at the top left when it arrived:



It *doesn't tilt the full 90°* in portrait mode; it only goes to maybe 85°.

The monitor arrived with this message:



So, a few questions:

Has anyone else not received a power adapter from dream-seller? Is it likely that they forgot to include it, or that it slid out (or was taken out) of the tear-hole?
Why would the box be torn like that? Customs? Is it something to worry about?
Dream-seller's return policy is 14 days after receipt of the item, so it'll only last 2 days after the 30th, when their customer service person is supposed to get out of the hospital. Is it likely that they'll honor it for 14 days after the 30th, considering that I can't even test the monitor yet?
Should I file a Buyer Protection claim with eBay now, just in case, or wait until the 30th (+2 days)?
Is the tilt of the monitor (85° instead of 90°) something I can complain to dream-seller about, or is that standard with CrossOver's LED-P monitors?
If I _can_ complain about the tilt, will I have to pay shipping both ways to trade monitors? How much would that cost? Does anyone have experience with that?
If I can't get an adapter from dream-seller, where can I get one?
I got this thing almost a week ago, so it's annoying to be in the dark about so many issues.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> I ordered a CrossOver 27Q LED-P from *dream-seller* for $447 on September 13th. It arrived on September 18th. (The price has since gone up to $457.)
> When it arrived, it was *missing the power adapter*, so I haven't been able to test the monitor yet. I sent a message to dream-seller asking them to ship me one, and got an automatic reply about their customer service person being in the hospital until the 30th. Correspondingly, I *haven't gotten a reply yet*.
> The *box was torn* at the top left when it arrived:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It *doesn't tilt the full 90°* in portrait mode; it only goes to maybe 85°.
> The monitor arrived with this message:
> 
> 
> 
> So, a few questions:
> 
> Has anyone else not received a power adapter from dream-seller? Is it likely that they forgot to include it, or that it slid out (or was taken out) of the tear-hole?
> Why would the box be torn like that? Customs? Is it something to worry about?
> Dream-seller's return policy is 14 days after receipt of the item, so it'll only last 2 days after the 30th, when their customer service person is supposed to get out of the hospital. Is it likely that they'll honor it for 14 days after the 30th, considering that I can't even test the monitor yet?
> Should I file a Buyer Protection claim with eBay now, just in case, or wait until the 30th (+2 days)?
> Is the tilt of the monitor (85° instead of 90°) something I can complain to dream-seller about, or is that standard with CrossOver's LED-P monitors?
> If I _can_ complain about the tilt, will I have to pay shipping both ways to trade monitors? How much would that cost? Does anyone have experience with that?
> If I can't get an adapter from dream-seller, where can I get one?
> I got this thing almost a week ago, so it's annoying to be in the dark about so many issues.


Wow your box is in such good shape compared to mine.
Dream seller should be responding to messages, he has been responding to me for the last week; I recommend just sending an email a day if he won't respond, that usually gets the attention of customer service.
The improper tilt is not a defect, it is a known problem with the design, AFAIK.


----------



## strap624

Maybe they are having problems with the monitors, I got this message from TA_planet this morning:

Dear desert366,

This is Kinam again.
Well received your message.

I will check it out on Monday.

However, in worst case, we may have to cancel the order.
crossover panel quality is also now the problem in Korea too.

I will update again.

Have a nice weekend.
Best Regard from Korea
Kinam

- ta_planet

At least he is being honest, and willing to cancel the order entirely if he can't find a good one.


----------



## Avetisov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strap624*
> 
> Maybe they are having problems with the monitors, I got this message from TA_planet this morning:
> Dear desert366,
> This is Kinam again.
> Well received your message.
> I will check it out on Monday.
> However, in worst case, we may have to cancel the order.
> crossover panel quality is also now the problem in Korea too.
> I will update again.
> Have a nice weekend.
> Best Regard from Korea
> Kinam
> - ta_planet
> At least he is being honest, and willing to cancel the order entirely if he can't find a good one.


I'm in the Shimian, but same boat. Ta_planet refuses to return or exchange, and has told me that the panels are low quality now. =/


----------



## farstar

It's a shame to hear this. I want to buy another Pixel Perfect 2720MDP from Accesorieswhole as they seem to be the most selective about what they will ship compared to other sellers I've purchased from (yeah dream-seller, I'm giving you the stink-eye from across the Pacific as I write this).

Hopefully this situation will improve soon.


----------



## bestbright

Got my second 27Q from AccessoriesWhole (a white one this time).

No obvious defects. Included DVI cable did not appear to work properly, although I might have plugged it in wrong. I tried another cable and it worked.

Did a check with white and black; couldn't find any stuck or hot pixels. Neato.






The box had two layers of bubble wrap on it this time instead of just one. Box arrived in excellent condition.

Ordered at 1pm on wednesday, got here at 11am monday.

Now, to find out if I can drive this thing from an HDMI port...

EDIT: I think the cable was probably okay, I just had the same problem with the other cable. Not plugged in tightly enough.


----------



## Descadent

all 3 of mine tilt perfect

how you forget a power supply though.... lol. and dream seller has been saying that same email message to people for last two weeks with long shipping times, dead pixel sent back to manufacturer, and now forgetting power supplies.

I hope you all are getting convinced now that accessorieswhole is simply the best option by now, but hope these prices come back down for everyone.


----------



## rationalthinking

Has anyone ordered from bigclothcraft?

I purchased 2 last week with a DHL tracking number that hasn't been updated since time of purchase.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rationalthinking*
> 
> Has anyone ordered from bigclothcraft?
> I purchased 2 last week with a DHL tracking number that hasn't been updated since time of purchase.


My tracking numbers didn't work for a while.

It's because (I assume) that he allocates you a tracking number before he ships them. Don't forget that he takes 3 working days to check your monitor.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> So, a few questions:
> 
> Has anyone else not received a power adapter from dream-seller? Is it likely that they forgot to include it, or that it slid out (or was taken out) of the tear-hole?
> Why would the box be torn like that? Customs? Is it something to worry about?
> Dream-seller's return policy is 14 days after receipt of the item, so it'll only last 2 days after the 30th, when their customer service person is supposed to get out of the hospital. Is it likely that they'll honor it for 14 days after the 30th, considering that I can't even test the monitor yet?
> Should I file a Buyer Protection claim with eBay now, just in case, or wait until the 30th (+2 days)?
> Is the tilt of the monitor (85° instead of 90°) something I can complain to dream-seller about, or is that standard with CrossOver's LED-P monitors?
> If I _can_ complain about the tilt, will I have to pay shipping both ways to trade monitors? How much would that cost? Does anyone have experience with that?
> If I can't get an adapter from dream-seller, where can I get one?
> I got this thing almost a week ago, so it's annoying to be in the dark about so many issues.


You get what you pay for lol, anyway I can try and help answer a few questions.

#2. Where are you located (just out of curiosity). My box was in good shape INSIDE, but the outside and near bottom is was very damp (like, wet and soggy, almost as if someone dropped it in foot-high water, then took it back out to try lol, and I think this has something to do with the yellowish tinge btw!). I think it could be something to do with the plane and altitude, making the boxes very soggy/soft, then it sits in DHL's warehouse which COULD also be humid inside, who knows. Someone should really inform them that our boxes are coming back wet though, and I think the monitors inside are being affected as well. The paint on the metal on top, specifically (peeling away).

#4. Buyer Protection is 45 days since purchase, keep that in mind. As far as ebay return policies, those are seller-dependent.

#5. Tilt in which direction? To face up? If you mean rotate, make sure you tilt to face up before spinning it into portrait mode.

#6. I would also like to know the shipping charges back to SK, but anyway, I doubt they will take your return, they might just send you a new stand.


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farstar*
> 
> It's a shame to hear this. I want to buy another Pixel Perfect 2720MDP from Accesorieswhole as they seem to be the most selective about what they will ship compared to other sellers I've purchased from (yeah dream-seller, I'm giving you the stink-eye from across the Pacific as I write this).
> Hopefully this situation will improve soon.


My MDP from AW arrived today...according to Fedex. Can't wait to get home and check it out!


----------



## matisto27

wow that's nice i ordered mine not too long ago 2 weeks or so from kinam tha_planet
have some problems with it
now i understand why but he doesn't want to give another in replacement :s


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

i just order my crossover 27q now from dream-seller, is he good







. i heard a lot of complaints on here for this seller.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> i just order my crossover 27q now from dream-seller, is he good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i heard a lot of complaints on here for this seller.


Chance seems to be the name of the game in recent weeks, I had one come from him with no dead/stuck pixels, decent shipping time compared to AW, and good condition of box. The panel quality seems to have tanked in the past week with seller/buyer confirmations so we'll see, hope it turns out well for you.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Chance seems to be the name of the game in recent weeks, I had one come from him with no dead/stuck pixels, decent shipping time compared to AW, and good condition of box. The panel quality seems to have tanked in the past week with seller/buyer confirmations so we'll see, hope it turns out well for you.


thanks, i hope so to i don't want to go through any problems. i heard is a lot of pain shipping it back to korea for a replacement.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> i just order my crossover 27q now from dream-seller, is he good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . i heard a lot of complaints on here for this seller.


lol you see all the complaints and do it anyways then ask?


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> lol you see all the complaints and do it anyways then ask?


lol







, i saw the complaints right after i bought it.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

oh i forgot to ask, can i use a regular single-link DVI cable on the Crossover. or it has to be a dual-link DVI cable.


----------



## dude120

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> oh i forgot to ask, can i use a regular single-link DVI cable on the Crossover. or it has to be a dual-link DVI cable.


Dual link, as far as I can tell. You either won't get the full resolution of 2560x1440, or you won't get any picture at all.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude120*
> 
> Dual link, as far as I can tell. You either won't get the full resolution of 2560x1440, or you won't get any picture at all.


I decided to try it out of curiosity. I just got the back light when I turned my monitor on.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude120*
> 
> Dual link, as far as I can tell. You either won't get the full resolution of 2560x1440, or you won't get any picture at all.


alright thanks, now i got to buy one off ebay for cheap







.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> alright thanks, now i got to buy one off ebay for cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Why exactly are you buying a DVI cable?


----------



## LTC

Received my Crossover 27Q yesterday, I bought it Pixel Perfect from red-cap, however it has some massive lightbleed in the lower bottom, as many others also has been experiencing. How are you guys tackling the lightbleed? I probably won't send back the monitor, as it would be too much of a hassle, and it is impossible to see when the screen isn't entirely black... And to come with some positive critique, I must say that everything looks AWESOME, had a play with BF3 with the FXAA color mod, and it looked absolutely amazing with that 1440p res! Also watched Spirited Away with some friends in the evening, and the colors just popped, just AWESOME!


----------



## snafflehog

I bought two of the 27q's from lightnspace yesterday so I'm holding out hope for a pair of good ones. All this talk of diminishing panel quality is a bit scary but I'm hoping it's all hot air (or lightnspace has had his panels for a while







)!

I have a tracking number apparently with EMS but it starts with rrXXXXXX and when I enter it, it says not recognized, does anyone know where this tracking number will be for?


----------



## rationalthinking

Just got my Crossover in yesterday from bigclothcraft. I purchased Thursday afternoon and it was here by Monday at 3. Fast shipping!

I will be opening it up tonight and posting results of its condition. Wish me luck!


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bestbright*
> 
> Got my second 27Q from AccessoriesWhole (a white one this time).
> No obvious defects. Included DVI cable did not appear to work properly, although I might have plugged it in wrong. I tried another cable and it worked.
> Did a check with white and black; couldn't find any stuck or hot pixels. Neato.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The box had two layers of bubble wrap on it this time instead of just one. Box arrived in excellent condition.
> Ordered at 1pm on wednesday, got here at 11am monday.
> Now, to find out if I can drive this thing from an HDMI port...
> EDIT: I think the cable was probably okay, I just had the same problem with the other cable. Not plugged in tightly enough.


Looks absolutely great! Congrats man!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> alright thanks, now i got to buy one off ebay for cheap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


why

it comes with a cable, you really haven't done your research before purchasing.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> why
> it comes with a cable, you really haven't done your research before purchasing.


Not all of them come with a cable. A few people have even reported the stock cable being faulty.


----------



## strap624

I hope I actually get a monitor from Ta_planet, otherwise I'm going to order the auria 27" from microcenter


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Not all of them come with a cable. A few people have even reported the stock cable being faulty.


Which ones do not include the cable? None, AFAIK.

There are a few cases where the cable was reported as being defective. Notice my words, "reported as". From what I read here, a lot are having simple problems due to not educating themselves adequately on the tech for these monitors. Some don't even know what is DL-DVI.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> Which ones do not include the cable? None, AFAIK.
> There are a few cases where the cable was reported as being defective. Notice my words, "reported as". From what I read here, a lot are having simple problems due to not educating themselves adequately on the tech for these monitors. Some don't even know what is DL-DVI.


More reason to help them instead of being rude, in my opinion.

Not everyone has the self confidence to make these decisions alone nor are they savvy enough to research on their own. This entire community is thriving purely because people need tech help.

Being rude about it just means you're in the wrong place.


----------



## bruflot

After seeing one irl; do not want. Too big for my liking.


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> After seeing one irl; do not want. Too big for my liking.


Bigger = better







I'm trying to sale my BenQ XL2420T and pick up a crossover 27Q


----------



## Northstar

Hey Everyone !

I just received my monitor on Monday. I ordered mine on ebay from the seller "goodforum" I bought it late afternoon on a Thursday and it was here first thing Monday morning! Wow that is some fast shipping especially over the weekend.

I have NO dead or stuck pixel that I can see (or my eye is untrained to spot them). I do have a little backlight bleed though but nothing major, you can hardly tell, but then again I am not OCD about it.

I will post some pictures when I get a chance, but I am VERY VERY Happy with my monitor. I hope it last a long time! I am thinking about getting another one.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> More reason to help them instead of being rude, in my opinion.
> Not everyone has the self confidence to make these decisions alone nor are they savvy enough to research on their own. This entire community is thriving purely because people need tech help.
> Being rude about it just means you're in the wrong place.


I have answered questions if I can, but the problem is that some are making completely false statements and giving wrong advice. We are all born ignorant, but hopefully we can improve that situation.

if someone asks a question, no matter how basic, they should get an answer, just don't mislead others.


----------



## Durvann

Just received my 27Q LED-P from "goodforum", took 6 days from Korea to Canada (Ottawa).

Backlight bleeds doesn't seem too bad, couldn't find any dead pixels.

BUT there seems to be some dust in stuck behind the screen. Almost 100% sure its dust or something and not a pixel as when you look at it sideways you see can see 2 small black marks which aren't perfectly aligned. Anyone ever got the same problem? Tried tapping and cleaning but not success.

Also this is not a tempered glass model or anything.

Some pictures, quality is bad but its still easy to spot when you open them.

Top left of the middle of the flash on this picture.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> After seeing one irl; do not want. Too big for my liking.


lol no way.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bruflot*
> 
> After seeing one irl; do not want. Too big for my liking.


Must resist obvious joke...

back on topic: The pixel density is pretty good, and 27-30 inches seems to be the ideal size, if you are about two feet from your monitor; it allows you to see more with your peripherals.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> Why exactly are you buying a DVI cable?


cause the ones that comes with the crossover are faulty sometimes, so i bought one just in cause it happens.


----------



## TechnoChocolate

Thank you all for your help and datapoints!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Dream seller should be responding to messages, he has been responding to me for the last week; I recommend just sending an email a day if he won't respond, that usually gets the attention of customer service.


Thanks, I started doing that yesterday based on your recommendation. Any idea why he would reply to your messages but not mine? I basically said "you didn't send me an adapter; please send me an adapter".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> I hope you all are getting convinced now that accessorieswhole is simply the best option by now, but hope these prices come back down for everyone.


I don't doubt it, but considering that I'm going with a CrossOver instead of a Dell for cost reasons, it doesn't make much sense to pay $200 extra to get the same monitor from AW! (That's the cheapest they sell pixel-perfect-pivot.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> You get what you pay for lol, anyway I can try and help answer a few questions.
> #2. Where are you located (just out of curiosity). My box was in good shape INSIDE, but the outside and near bottom is was very damp (like, wet and soggy, almost as if someone dropped it in foot-high water, then took it back out to try lol, and I think this has something to do with the yellowish tinge btw!). I think it could be something to do with the plane and altitude, making the boxes very soggy/soft, then it sits in DHL's warehouse which COULD also be humid inside, who knows. Someone should really inform them that our boxes are coming back wet though, and I think the monitors inside are being affected as well. The paint on the metal on top, specifically (peeling away).
> #4. Buyer Protection is 45 days since purchase, keep that in mind. As far as ebay return policies, those are seller-dependent.
> #5. Tilt in which direction? To face up? If you mean rotate, make sure you tilt to face up before spinning it into portrait mode.
> #6. I would also like to know the shipping charges back to SK, but anyway, I doubt they will take your return, they might just send you a new stand.


#2. Cupertino, CA, United States. My box arrived dry inside and out, no trace of water that I noticed.
#5. When I rotate it into portrait orientation (after tilting it to face up, like you said), it doesn't fully reach portrait. Whereas it's flat and level in landscape, it stops rotating just before reaching 90° when I rotate it into portrait; and it rotates a little bit _past_ the end of landscape. Apparently a bit inside is bent or something.
#6. Has anyone had a stand shipped to them separately? Is that likely? I would love that.


----------



## TechnoChocolate

I just got a letter from FedEx. It's full of words and numbers, but the keywords are "DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY: U.S. Customs and Border Protection". So the package definitely went through customs, and it's maybe where the tearing came from.

Actually, the tearing is on the handle, so maybe the cardboard didn't hold up when someone tried to pick up the box by the handles? If the corner of the box hit the ground when that happened, that might have bend the stand, resulting in the rotation problem (where it doesn't fully rotate into portrait)?

Has anyone had rotation problems _despite_ tons of bubble wrap?


----------



## mikelanding

Some update on my Crossover 27Q LED-P.
After just 2 months + usage, the Backlid LED module had problem. Whole screen was black out. I contact the seller about this matter. He replied within few hours and ask me to took a video to show the problem. I did and he suggested send me the part for me to replace. The part is on the way now via Fedex Int Economy. Should arrive around 31st Sept.
Today I took the monitor apart and found out the 1 of the chip indeed was burned. Look at below pictures. Once the part arrive and install. I will update again.

So far, it is a pleasant to dealing with the seller even this unfortunately happened.


----------



## matisto27

Can someone tell me if i ask here in belgium for a dvi-d dual link cable that it always have max supported resolution of 2048 ? :|
That won't work right ? I don't understand why aren't there dvi-d dual of 2560 resolution ?
Also i'm having this problem with both crossover as the 2B extreme edition

Hey i had this problem before with my crossover screen
Upper part of the screen has clear white colour but down part has washed out yellowish colour
see pictures : http://users.telenet.be/prostyle/IMG_0217.JPG and http://users.telenet.be/prostyle/IMG_0218.JPG

have the same problem now also with this 2B edition
With both screens i use the standard cable that comes with it . Could it maybe be because of this and if i try a high quality cable that it would go away ?


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> Thank you all for your help and datapoints!
> Thanks, I started doing that yesterday based on your recommendation. Any idea why he would reply to your messages but not mine? I basically said "you didn't send me an adapter; please send me an adapter".


He stopped replying to my messages recently. I'm going to contact eBay buyer protection of he doesn't respond to any more of my messages.


----------



## strap624

Well Ta_planet says he has been unable to find a good crossover monitor for me, he says he's getting in another shipment today. I told him if he was unable to find a good crossover he could send me a good Shimian and refund the difference, and he agreed to do so if it comes down to that.


----------



## barvybe

OK - so monitor arrived and set up. Crossover MDP.

*Purchase and Delivery*
Ordered late 9/19 (Wednesday)
Shiped 9/20 (Thursday)
Arrived in NY on 9/24 (Monday) by noon.

Very fast from AccessoriesWhole.
Service was courteous and professional

*Packing / Condition*
Packing was very good (see pics)...really no box damage at all plus extra bubble wrap inside the box as well.
No dents, dings, etc. visible on the monitor frame, stand, etc.

Fully bubble wrapped




*Content*
Came with the cables and adapter as promised as well as some bandannas











*Screen / Connections*
Any weird visual artifacts are my phone camera and its flash...








*Setup*
Plugged it in, attached HDMI cable to MacBook and that's it. Worked right away.
Screen was very bright, but I found a different Mac profile that looks good for me. Will eventually get around the calibrating it for photos, etc. but didn't notice any odd tints. No dead pixels! (at least that I've found).

*Issues*
Only a few minor ones -

1. the up / down swivel on the stand seems stuck - just need to play with it I think but given that the stand isn't the best was afraid to break something. Its tilted down about 5degrees.
2. there is a second HDMI input. IN one of the closeups you can see that there is actually no "plug" - just a hole and you can see through to the inside of monitor.
3. need to brush up on my Korean for the on screen controls!
4. buzz for a second on startup...probably not a problem but going to keep an ear on it

Neither are major - I wasn't expecting a 2nd HDMI, but will ask AW about it. Probably will just close it over.

VERY HAPPY SO FAR.
Just want to let it burn in for a few days.

The monitor does buzz for a second when I turn it on.


----------



## Althulas

Barvebe, funny the missing HDMI port, the second one is present on mine. Regarding the stand for the up and down movement did you unscrew the scre at the base of the stem? The tilt function on mines a bit stiff but rather that then it being too loose


----------



## C70T5

Which of these Crossovers currently being made have OSD menus?

I know the normal 27Q models don't have it, but they used to do a 27M which did have it. Are the only ones with OSD menu now the 2720MDP Golds?


----------



## Art Vanelay

Hey, I finally got a message back from Dream-seller saying that he would have the monitor shipped back free, or at least I think that's what he said; he doesn't speak English well. That only took three weeks, I think.


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Hey, I finally got a message back from Dream-seller saying that he would have the monitor shipped back free, or at least I think that's what he said; he doesn't speak English well. That only took three weeks, I think.


Whats wrong with your Crossover?


----------



## dude120

Forgive me if it's a stupid question, but what is the part which keep specifically failing in these crossovers after roughly 2-3 months?
I've seen multiple people with, what looks like scorched VRM's on a daughter-board inside of these monitors. I just ordered one of these from lightn.space a week ago, so I should hopefully be seeing it here anywhere from Friday to early next Monday. If I were to open up the monitor and put a small VRM heatsink for a GPU or a motherboard would this make me less likely to have the same problem?
Thanks for any replies.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikelanding*


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> Whats wrong with your Crossover?


Fed Ex broke it.
there's a dent in the corner, deep enough to expose the bare metal, and it does this:


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude120*
> 
> Forgive me if it's a stupid question, but what is the part which keep specifically failing in these crossovers after roughly 2-3 months?
> I've seen multiple people with, what looks like scorched VRM's on a daughter-board inside of these monitors. I just ordered one of these from lightn.space a week ago, so I should hopefully be seeing it here anywhere from Friday to early next Monday. If I were to open up the monitor and put a small VRM heatsink for a GPU or a motherboard would this make me less likely to have the same problem?
> Thanks for any replies.


I had the same idea and i think im going to open up the monitor tomorrow and see if it looks already burnt or anything. In any case im going to try to mod a somekind of heatsink for the component. Can't recall which thread it was, but i saw photos of a same issue from other users so i try to play safe and prolong my monitors life as much as possible









EDIT: I opened up my monitor and i found the board. It is not the same board that Mikelanding has. It is green and has different components. Nothing looked burnt and nor felt hot to touch. I guess this is a new revision or something? It has a date 2012.05.12. I guess they have adressed the problem on newer crossovers. I've had mine less than a month.


----------



## bestbright

In case anyone's curious, I gave up trying to find a cheap video card that could run two of these at the same time after I had to return two of them. EVGA support is clueless about which of their cards have two dual link ports and it's never listed in the specs. Other vendors might have better support.

Oh well. My old 8800GTS works, but it gets hotter than the sun


----------



## bestbright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Fed Ex broke it.
> there's a dent in the corner, deep enough to expose the bare metal, and it does this:


Sorry man, that suxx


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bestbright*
> 
> Sorry man, that suxx


Well, at least I am probably not out $400. I am not sure what will happen with the amount I paid in duty and taxes, though. Can you be reimbursed for that if the item is returned?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> I don't doubt it, but considering that I'm going with a CrossOver instead of a Dell for cost reasons, it doesn't make much sense to pay $200 extra to get the same monitor from AW! (That's the cheapest they sell pixel-perfect-pivot.)


There is no reason to buy a pixel perfect with their policies. I got each of my led-p for $360 each. That's why I said I hope the crossovers comeback down in price for everyone.


----------



## tehpsyc

So red-cap has shipped my replacement PCB, and in anticipation of its arrival (still not for a few days) I decided to crack open the monitor and see what I could find.

Taking off the back metal case was easy, it separated into 3 parts. The largest part had the primary PCB attached to it, which was connected to the LCD panel itself. There was a smaller PCB on the right, which I presumed to be the LED controller (same wiring that went to the LED adjustment buttons and two black outgoing cables to either side of the panel). It was readily apparent what the result of my problem was when looking at the LED controller, and I've attached some pictures so that anyone in my situation in the future can potentially chase down the cause too. Here is the LED PCB, and the discoloration and burned up area should be a good indicator as to what went wrong:



http://imgur.com/1gjI6


----------



## marselsha

Its a MOSFET on the LED Driver board. Mine failed too. Just emailed AccessoriesWhole to see if he has any replacement boards.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marselsha*
> 
> Its a MOSFET on the LED Driver board. Mine failed too. Just emailed AccessoriesWhole to see if he has any replacement boards.


I bought from red-cap and he's already shipped my replacement board (though he never specified which board he sent so now I'm paranoid he sent the wrong one) but hopefully its all good.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

alright guys what's the best seller period on Ebay, that i could buy my crossover 27q from. that include's fast shipping, and the product arrive problems free







. shoot


----------



## bestbright

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marselsha*
> 
> Its a MOSFET on the LED Driver board. Mine failed too. Just emailed AccessoriesWhole to see if he has any replacement boards.


Hope you let us know if you hear back, would be good to know if we can get them if something goes wrong.


----------



## Gloomfrost

So an update on my purple blob,

BCC sent a funny e-mail with these 2 lines:
"Oh my God!
Some unexpected damage must have impressed on the monitor"

Which I thought was hilarious. Anyway, he wants me to return it for exchange. He's paying for shipping, but I'm trying to convince him to just send a new one my way instead of him having to pay for expensive shipping from Canada to SK... It'll also keep me happy with a monitor on my desk (albeit with a massive issue), and not having to find a box cause the one it came packaged in disintegrated.


----------



## mikelanding

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> I bought from red-cap and he's already shipped my replacement board (though he never specified which board he sent so now I'm paranoid he sent the wrong one) but hopefully its all good.


Me too in same situation as you. He did put "27Q PCB" In the Fedex reference. Hope he send the correct part.
So far red-cap seem to be a responsible seller that answer my msg and act fairly quick to send replacement part.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikelanding*
> 
> Me too in same situation as you. He did put "27Q PCB" In the Fedex reference. Hope he send the correct part.
> So far red-cap seem to be a responsible seller that answer my msg and act fairly quick to send replacement part.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011

I ordered a set of these (only needed one but couldn't find them individually) but I'm gonna be installing one on the MOSFET as a precautionary measure on the new PCB. Might wanna consider doing the same, I wish you luck!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> alright guys what's the best seller period on Ebay, that i could buy my crossover 27q from. that include's fast shipping, and the product arrive problems free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . shoot


accessorieswhole. barely any backlight bleed, no dead pixels on all 3 of mine, and took 1 and half days from korea to delivery in NC usa from time of order.


----------



## ahhui90

Still waiting for AccessoriesWhole for the reply on the faulty backlight.. it's taking so long


----------



## strap624

Ta_planet says he has found me a good monitor and that he will be shipping tomorrow! very excited to see it.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> accessorieswhole. barely any backlight bleed, no dead pixels on all 3 of mine, and took 1 and half days from korea to delivery in NC usa from time of order.


thank you.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> Still waiting for AccessoriesWhole for the reply on the faulty backlight.. it's taking so long


well it is 2:40 am over there at the time of writing this.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> accessorieswhole. barely any backlight bleed, no dead pixels on all 3 of mine, and took 1 and half days from korea to delivery in NC usa from time of order.


After seeing your comments numerous times on OCN, I'd like to give some advice to new comers:
The chance of getting a good monitor is depending on your luck, not depending on sellers. Because all korean sellers' QA teams are crap! Look how many people had problems after receiving the monitors even the sellers claimed they checked the monitor before shipment. Don't get me wrong, I believe they indeed check the monitor, but they are not doing the job that you think they should be doing. I believe in their standard, good monitor = can be powered on OR no dead pixel (if you pay extra for PP). They don't give **** about backlight bleeding, pressure marks on screen, dusts under the screen, missing hdmi port, etc. But, you do need a good seller to perform a return or an exchange, that's where AW shines.

All in all, the choice of sellers will not increase your chance of getting a good monitor, but can increase the probability of taking care of monitor's problem if the one you receive have any. Korean sellers if you are reading this, please, have a meeting with your QA team, ask them to do a better job. It helps save money or your end as well.


----------



## matisto27

Hey i'm wondering if your seller (tha_planet) doesn't take your screen back to rma it . Could you ask with another seller if they may rma the screen?
Or do you need to ask only the person who sells you the screen to rma it ?


----------



## Teo14

I am another member of team Crossover that got hit with a hot MOSFET. I just registered to share my input.

Purchased in June from Bigclothcraft, fast shipping and good communication.

Fast-forward to the end of August, started having some intermittent flickering issues that would happen for a second or two at a time then go away. I sent a message to BCC and he responded very quickly and offered to send a replacement power brick. I accepted his offer and the power supply arrived 2 days later.

I used the new power brick and everything seemed fine for a couple of days until my monitor's screen would go dark (backlight would go out but power light would still be blue). I could tell this was linked to the backlight brightness as it would only happen when the backlight was anything above the minimum setting. Video here: 




I explained the issue to BCC and he authorized sending the monitor back via his account with DHL.

Seeing how many others had this issue with the mosfet on the LED power board I decided to crack my panel open and have a look:





Toasty.

So I dug up an old mosfet heatsink from a graphics card, cleaned the heatsink and mosfet with some rubbing alcohol, applied a tiny dot of Arctic Silver to the mosfet and temporarily secured it to the board with some double sided foam tape.



I hooked everything up and at first it seemed it didn't work (monitor would die if brightness was turned up). I tried power cycling the monitor a few more times and then it just worked, the monitor would stay on on the highest brightness. The heatsink did get hot to the touch so there is some definite need for some cooling.

I am going to attach the heatsink more permanently, I'm thinking a couple dots of epoxy on the corners and some Arctic silver in the middle of the mosfet, however I am open to suggestions 









I am going to let BCC know about the issue and maybe we can both save some time and money by just getting a new LED driver board shipped out. Has anyone received a replacement board from any seller yet?

I heard a member say they didn't have a blue PCB for the LED driver board and instead a green one so I assume Crossover is aware of the issue and are using a different board on the newer panels they are shipping out.

edit: found a datasheet for the 18T10GH MOSFET used on this board, has a maximum operating temperature of 150 degrees Celsius and judging by the charring on most people's boards its hitting that upper limit.


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teo14*
> 
> I heard a member say they didn't have a blue PCB for the LED driver board and instead a green one so I assume Crossover is aware of the issue and are using a different board on the newer panels they are shipping out..


I cracked open my monitor to mod a heat sink for the board as a precaution to prevent it from failing. However the pcb is green and has different component layout compare to the pcb's that have a blown mosfet.



I have had the monitor for almost a month now. The pcb is not burnt nor anything is implying damage caused by excessive heat. Couple of "weird" things here though. Capacitors are not "solid" opposed to those blue pcb and they are made by Sam Young which is south korean corporation i believe. They are rated at 85 degrees celcius. I thought that in this kind of electronics they would always be rated at 105 degrees celcius? Anyway, i hope this pcb is of better quality so i don't have to ask the seller for a new one.


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teo14*
> 
> I am another member of team Crossover that got hit with a hot MOSFET. I just registered to share my input...


Teo14! Thank you so much for this post! I bought my Crossover 27Q LED-P from red-cap on July 23 (so its been about 2 months now). Could you please mention what power brick you were using? I received a Loadus power brick (190V-220V), and decided to purchase a step up transformer from Amazon for about $20 after about 5 days of usage. The monitor ran cooler, and I have not had any issues so far (knock on wood). I wish to take a nab at opening this monitor and applying a heatsink to the MOSFET, so are there any other chips that need to be cooled also in your opinion?

Thanks in advance buddy!


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghabhaducha*
> 
> Teo14! Thank you so much for this post! I bought my Crossover 27Q LED-P from red-cap on July 23 (so its been about 2 months now). Could you please mention what power brick you were using? I received a Loadus power brick (190V-220V), and decided to purchase a step up transformer from Amazon for about $20 after about 5 days of usage. The monitor ran cooler, and I have not had any issues so far (knock on wood). I wish to take a nab at opening this monitor and applying a heatsink to the MOSFET, so are there any other chips that need to be cooled also in your opinion?
> Thanks in advance buddy!


Could you link the power supply you purchased?


----------



## ahhui90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> well it is 2:40 am over there at the time of writing this.


i meant 2 days. and they usually reply in the evenings (KST)


----------



## Teo14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> I cracked open my monitor to mod a heat sink for the board as a precaution to prevent it from failing. However the pcb is green and has different component layout compare to the pcb's that have a blown mosfet.
> 
> 
> I have had the monitor for almost a month now. The pcb is not burnt nor anything is implying damage caused by excessive heat. Couple of "weird" things here though. Capacitors are not "solid" opposed to those blue pcb and they are made by Sam Young which is south korean corporation i believe. They are rated at 85 degrees celcius. I thought that in this kind of electronics they would always be rated at 105 degrees celcius? Anyway, i hope this pcb is of better quality so i don't have to ask the seller for a new one.


Thanks for the info and the pictures Karail. It is quite odd not to see solid capacitors. Maybe thats what we get with these displays, expensive A- panels and cheap components that drive them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghabhaducha*
> 
> Teo14! Thank you so much for this post! I bought my Crossover 27Q LED-P from red-cap on July 23 (so its been about 2 months now). Could you please mention what power brick you were using? I received a Loadus power brick (190V-220V), and decided to purchase a step up transformer from Amazon for about $20 after about 5 days of usage. The monitor ran cooler, and I have not had any issues so far (knock on wood). I wish to take a nab at opening this monitor and applying a heatsink to the MOSFET, so are there any other chips that need to be cooled also in your opinion?
> Thanks in advance buddy!


You're welcome!

My monitor originally shipped with a LODUS power brick which ran quite warm. When I started having troubles with the monitor BCC sent me a Weltronics brick as a replacement I'm not sure whether this one ran cooler or not as I wasn't able to turn up the backlight on the monitor without it turning off.

Other than the one mosfet that seems to be failing on everyone I'm not sure if anything else requires cooling. I'm not even convinced now that it is a lack of cooling that is causing it to fail...

Maybe one of the ebay sellers can give us some insight as to how Crossover is dealing with the issue. Is there a recall? Are they shipping out replacement boards for those monitors that have the fault? Maybe they are doing nothing at all and the ebay sellers are having to source replacement PCBs themselves?


----------



## TechnoChocolate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> There is no reason to buy a pixel perfect with their policies.


What do you mean by that? That dead pixels aren't a big deal, or that every monitor they sell is pixel perfect?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> What do you mean by that? That dead pixels aren't a big deal, or that every monitor they sell is pixel perfect?


all 3 of mine none pixel perfect and no dead pixels. Plenty of others reported like that as well from AW as they sell A panels not A- and have less than 3 dead pixel policy vs other sellers are A- and 5-12 dead pixels depending on seller


----------



## TechnoChocolate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> all 3 of mine none pixel perfect and no dead pixels. Plenty of others reported like that as well from AW as they sell A panels not A- and have less than 3 dead pixel policy vs other sellers are A- and 5-12 dead pixels depending on seller


That's encouraging, but I want guaranteed zero, not just probably zero.

That said, AW's selling cheaper pixel-perfect monitors all of a sudden, so maybe I'll go with that, if this dream-seller situation doesn't work out.


----------



## TechnoChocolate

Speaking of dream-seller: I left negative feedback and opened a Buyer Protection thing, and all of a sudden they're in contact after a week of silence.

And they say they'll send me the power adapter I paid for as soon as I reverse the negative feedback.

And they haven't responded to the monitor pivot issue.

Maybe dream-seller will become super great once their person gets out of the hospital, but in the meantime they're amazingly ****ty.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> Speaking of dream-seller: I left negative feedback and opened a Buyer Protection thing, and all of a sudden they're in contact after a week of silence.
> And they say they'll send me the power adapter I paid for as soon as I reverse the negative feedback.
> And they haven't responded to the monitor pivot issue.
> Maybe dream-seller will become super great once their person gets out of the hospital, but in the meantime they're amazingly ****ty.


They don't understand how the feedback system works, though, I told them that I would remove my negative feedback as soon as they give me a refund, and they seem pretty eager to help now. They still haven't figured out the revise feedback option, though.

I'm pretty sure the monitor pivot issue is an issue with the stand itself, someone earlier said that you just have to loosen it a bit and it will turn more.


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Could you link the power supply you purchased?


Hi tehpsyc,

I followed the suggestion in this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1275958/important-korean-monitor-power-announcement/0_50

I hope that helps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teo14*
> 
> You're welcome!..


Teo14,

After cracking open the Crossover 27Q, I found out that I also have a green PCB. I'm thinking though, since there is sooo much space inside, if we couldn't solder some silent fans inside? After all, there is a 24V output at several locations. I may have to consult my EE friend about this.


----------



## LTC

I've been following this MOSFET issue, and I'm quite concerned myself, as I just bought my Crossover a week ago... However is the MOSFET issue only related to the US users, using the included PSU? Or should I as a 220V EU user fear this issue as well?


----------



## mikelanding

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LTC*
> 
> I've been following this MOSFET issue, and I'm quite concerned myself, as I just bought my Crossover a week ago... However is the MOSFET issue only related to the US users, using the included PSU? Or should I as a 220V EU user fear this issue as well?


I had the MOSFET problem too. My country is same 220V as EU


----------



## matisto27

if you want to rma your screen can you go to another seller also (not the one who sold it to you) ?

Is it also 100 % true that AW sells A panels and not A- ? if so are all panels without problems then ?


----------



## TechnoChocolate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> They don't understand how the feedback system works, though, I told them that I would remove my negative feedback as soon as they give me a refund, and they seem pretty eager to help now.


Haha, I did the same thing. My power adapter is on its way, negative review still in place.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the monitor pivot issue is an issue with the stand itself, someone earlier said that you just have to loosen it a bit and it will turn more.


It's a problem with the stand, yeah. That poster was referring to the locking screw, which prevents the monitor from moving up and down (for height adjustment) during shipping. It doesn't control rotation.

I had my hardware-fluent brother look inside the stand. Something is bent out of place, and it should be possible to bend it back, but the fact that it bent in the first place is worrying, and bending it back will cause further strain.

Dream-seller wants me to send a video, so I'll do that later today.


----------



## vali

Hi all, did a thread and somebody pointed me here.
I bought a CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 2 months ago or so from Dreamseller.
Yesterday after I restarted my PC, when it cuts the power, I noticed for a second or two, some vertical lines repeating like a pattern. A similar thing happened after the PC rebooted, for 2 seconds a different pattern of lines appeared and after disappeared. I noticed this also a week or so ago for a few times, but it was so brief that I though that I am seeing things. Same thing happens after I resume from standby.
Beside that there are no other problems, the monitor performs good.
Could it be the power adapter? I received Welltronics AC/DC adapter 110 - 240V, 1.5A, Output 24V 5A.
Also the monitor runs on amd 6870 videocard.
I am worried that this problem may get worse and damage the monitor.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
All the best!


----------



## strap624

You should be able to find a power brick with the correct power output specifications with a US plug. Also that MOSFET should have a heatsink on it IMO. If you were electrically savvy and have no other options you may be able to buy the component and solder it onto the board yourself. Although I don't know how MOSFETs are rated power wise. This makes me nervous I should be getting my monitor in the mail on tuesday. I will be opening it up and looking at it before I power it up. also they do make adhesive TIM for securing heatsinks:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100005&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA


----------



## vali

I am from Romania, Europe, the power specs are ok. Will buy another power brick but not sure if that is the problem.


----------



## Elsinore

You probably already know this, but just to be sure: On the 4th of 5 menu tabs, the top choice is Language to switch from Korean to English. Make sure you get a MiniDisplayPort to DisplayPort to do 2560x1440 as HDMI caps out at 1920x1200.

*Screen / Connections*
Any weird visual artifacts are my phone camera and its flash...







*Setup*
Plugged it in, attached HDMI cable to MacBook and that's it. Worked right away.
Screen was very bright, but I found a different Mac profile that looks good for me. Will eventually get around the calibrating it for photos, etc. but didn't notice any odd tints. No dead pixels! (at least that I've found).
*Issues*
Only a few minor ones -
1. the up / down swivel on the stand seems stuck - just need to play with it I think but given that the stand isn't the best was afraid to break something. Its tilted down about 5degrees.
2. there is a second HDMI input. IN one of the closeups you can see that there is actually no "plug" - just a hole and you can see through to the inside of monitor.
3. need to brush up on my Korean for the on screen controls!
4. buzz for a second on startup...probably not a problem but going to keep an ear on it
Neither are major - I wasn't expecting a 2nd HDMI, but will ask AW about it. Probably will just close it over.
VERY HAPPY SO FAR.
Just want to let it burn in for a few days.
The monitor does buzz for a second when I turn it on.[/quote]


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elsinore*
> 
> You probably already know this, but just to be sure: On the 4th of 5 menu tabs, the top choice is Language to switch from Korean to English. Make sure you get a MiniDisplayPort to DisplayPort to do 2560x1440 as HDMI caps out at 1920x1200.


Thanks Elsinore!
I didn't now that about the menu language selection! Also been away and unable to play with it since I put those pictures up. Being able to read the menu will be good









Yes, on the HDMI - need to get the DP cable still is all.

- P


----------



## ahhui90

Since its Chuseok now in South Korea, i'll just wait patiently for AW's reply








Before my MOSFET was toasted there's some weird patch of artefacts on the top left of the screen, not sure if its caused by the faulty board or my graphic card. But using my old monitor i don't have any issues.

And also, I'm on 230V supply here, it still gets toasted. I'm gonna install a fan behind the monitor when its RMAed.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> That's encouraging, but I want guaranteed zero, not just probably zero.
> That said, AW's selling cheaper pixel-perfect monitors all of a sudden, so maybe I'll go with that, if this dream-seller situation doesn't work out.


then you shouldn't be looking at Korean monitors then as the panels aren't up to spec of LG's standards that's why they are so cheap. If you want perfect then you need to go look at hp apple and dell, BUT they aren't even perfect!

take the dead pixel thing with grain of salt hardly any of us have dead pixels. Especially from AW. Seeing 1-3 dead pixels out of 4 million...psshh. Like I said I got 3 non perfect pixels that have no dead pixels.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> then you shouldn't be looking at Korean monitors then as the panels aren't up to spec of LG's standards that's why they are so cheap. If you want perfect then you need to go look at hp apple and dell, BUT they aren't even perfect!
> take the dead pixel thing with grain of salt hardly any of us have dead pixels. Especially from AW. Seeing 1-3 dead pixels out of 4 million...psshh. Like I said I got 3 non perfect pixels that have no dead pixels.


I second this, got two 27Qs from AW and Dream-seller, both zero dead/stuck pixels


----------



## anmolkapoor

2720MDP GOLD vs Catleap Q271....which is the better option for console gaming?


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> 2720MDP GOLD vs Catleap Q271....which is the better option for console gaming?


Modern consoles can only output a maximum resolution of 720p, AFAIK, so just get a good 720p monitor if you want it for a console.


----------



## farstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Modern consoles can only output a maximum resolution of 720p, AFAIK, so just get a good 720p monitor if you want it for a console.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> 2720MDP GOLD vs Catleap Q271....which is the better option for console gaming?


The 2720MDP has optical out. If you use HDMI for the console then the audio will be sent out over the optical interface to your receiver or digital capable speakers. If you don't need the optical out then they're both fine.

I would not recommend the 3.5mm headphone jack that these monitors provide to send your audio. These screens have poor audio components and tend to buzz. If you're not going digital all the way then drive your speakers directly from the console in whatever way you can.

You can feed these monitors 1080p or 720p over HDMI. Most games on Xbox360 or PS3 aren't rendered above 720p because of a lack of graphics horsepower regardless of how you configure your console. I would still go 1080p for everything else the console displays when it can manage 1080p.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> 2720MDP GOLD vs Catleap Q271....which is the better option for console gaming?


doesn't really matter they are same panel.


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farstar*
> 
> The 2720MDP has optical out. If you use HDMI for the console then the audio will be sent out over the optical interface to your receiver or digital capable speakers. If you don't need the optical out then they're both fine.
> I would not recommend the 3.5mm headphone jack that these monitors provide to send your audio. These screens have poor audio components and tend to buzz. If you're not going digital all the way then drive your speakers directly from the console in whatever way you can.
> You can feed these monitors 1080p or 720p over HDMI. Most games on Xbox360 or PS3 aren't rendered above 720p because of a lack of graphics horsepower regardless of how you configure your console. I would still go 1080p for everything else the console displays when it can manage 1080p.


^This. The optical will make a world of difference.

After reviewing a thunderbolt display teardown, and comparing the PCB's found in there vs. the crossover, I realized that is where these Korean IPS monitors show limitations (again my opinion). After opening my Crossover, I realized I actually have 3x mosfets unlike the internals posted in post #1 which has 2x mosfets, and some of the other users only have 1x mosfet (but the only one with solid state capacitors)...unbelievable discrepancy.

At this point, I do not entirely trust the electronic components on the PCB inside these displays for power, and definitely not for Audio digital-to-analog conversion. Get the one with the optical out as you will be able to use the DAC inside a receiver of your choice. I hope that helps.


----------



## anmolkapoor

2720MDP GOLD it is then. Also, this seller is asking $569 for the pixel perfect version. Do you think that I should wait for a price drop or maybe the release of a new revision/model....or should I just purchase it right away? Thanks for the help. Really appreciate it guys.


----------



## farstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> 2720MDP GOLD it is then. Also, this seller is asking $569 for the pixel perfect version. Do you think that I should wait for a price drop or maybe the release of a new revision/model....or should I just purchase it right away? Thanks for the help. Really appreciate it guys.


They're recognized by many here as one of the better sellers. You won't get a dud from them, but you won't get it soon either. It shows that they are out of stock and I have contacted them for the pivot version. They told me it could be a while as there is a shortage of panels available to Crossover.

I tried another seller because I got tired of waiting (dream-seller). It was a big mistake. My defective one from them is stuck in customs on its way back.


----------



## strap624

Yes it seems there is a shortage of good panels. Ta planet took a week to ship one to me becase he claimed good ones were rare right now. Needless to say im nervous.


----------



## farstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strap624*
> 
> Yes it seems there is a shortage of good panels. Ta planet took a week to ship one to me becase he claimed good ones were rare right now. Needless to say im nervous.


Given the current climate I'd be nervous if he shipped out right away. Sounds like he's doing his job and only shipping a well tested panel. Regardless, good luck.

Dan


----------



## jerrolds

Not sure if this has been confirmed or not - but I *believe* CrossOvers do not use Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to handle brightness - which is awesome (LEDs do not flicker to produce desired brightness)

I have the CrossOver LED-P and an Asus VS248H-p 2ms (TN) display

Theres another ghetto test where if you set the set the brightness to 0, set the background to white, and wave a pencil (or your hand) really fast side to side - you will get a strobe light effect if it uses PWM.

Here is a pic of my CrossOver on the left, Asus on the right (brightness at 90%)



This is definitely happening on the ASUS, luckily if i set its brightness to 100% the effect pretty much vanishes - just need to lower the brightness via the control panel. On the CrossOver - there is no strobe light effect even on the lowest brightness setting. If it uses PWM im guessing its decently on the high side.

Here is a video i quickly made - its tough to see but i do set the CrossOver to lowest and highest brightness...in any case there does not seem to be any Flicker.




It looks like the CrossOver is similiar to the Shimian in that it does NOT use PWM and should not cause any strain on the eyes







Or at least cause less strain. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## 161029

Actually, you can see the flicker in the video already on the Asus when it's below 100.


----------



## matisto27

Can it be that AW still doesn't answer my mail i have sended her since friday ?


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> Can it be that AW still doesn't answer my mail i have sended her since friday ?


It was a Korean holiday I think.


----------



## Karail

There is a thanksgiving holiday in Korea. People are back in office october 4th so you will have to wait few days.


----------



## PubFiction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> I still refuse to believe they actually sell any A panels. If anything, they just check A- panels, find them to have no dead pixels and then declare them A (which is wrong). That's only for the PP models of course.


The tech indusrty has and will work like this for decades. They make more of a product than they can sell in high end sectors so they take the same exact product sometimes and sell it as a lower cost item. Look honestly how many people can afford a $1000 monitor? Not even most apple customers can, the vast majority of apple customers do not own ACD 27 inch or even MBPR, same with dell, HP and others so the question is what do you do? Turn the factory off? No the answer is just like so many other products you just sell them into alternate channels. That is what is going on, I just got a brand new auria 27 inch, I cannot find a single bad pixel. I know one person who has a ACD 27 I cannot tell the difference. Sure Auria skimped on the stand and bezel as compared to dell and apple, but the crossovers are argueably just as good.

Here is another thing you might have to think about, LG proabably takes A+ panels and sells them to dell / Hp etc... Then whatever is left even though its still an A+ panel they sell it as and A or A-. Finally who cares if it is even worse, I cant tell the difference and lots of people in these price ranges are taking much worse TN panels at 1080p.


----------



## calatrava

Hello I want to buy this model http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320890001835 a CROSSOVER 2720MDP GOLD LED , no there tempered glossy in Crossover? thanks..


----------



## farstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calatrava*
> 
> Hello I want to buy this model http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320890001835 a CROSSOVER 2720MDP GOLD LED , no there tempered glossy in Crossover? thanks..


You will not find a tempered glass version of the 2720MDP. Sorry.


----------



## jerrolds

Just wanted to make sure i have the newer CrossOvers with the fixed PCB (MOSFET wont melt) - i took a pic of the back right of the panel through the ventilation.

Looks green to me, so i should be safe right?


----------



## strap624

^ I'm interested in this as well. Do we know which board has the MOSFET problem exactly?


----------



## tehpsyc

Well I received and installed my replacement PCB today, and about 2 hours afterward I started to get very subtle flickering. (I also installed a heatsink on the MOSFET). I quickly removed the LED board when I noticed the flickering and the heatsink was very hot to the touch. The replacement board was one of the teal ones as well, so not the problem-free green board I was hoping for.

What do I do now? I have the welltronics power supply, should I replace that?


----------



## LTC

Got the green PCB as well, don't know whether this is good, or bad?


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LTC*
> 
> Got the green PCB as well, don't know whether this is good, or bad?


Seems to be a good thing, the teal one seems to be the one with the failing mosfet


----------



## mullum

since updating to OSX 10.7.5 (at least I think the problem is since the update) Ive been getting somewhat garbled text on the Crossover as a secondary display to my iMac.
OSX says the display is running at 2560x1440 and photos seem fine - but text (or text/menus etc in applications) are no longer clear. Reboot doesnt help. Probably the best way to describe the problem is with the images below :

text on my imac screen :










text on the crossover :



















Is anyone else experiencing this - know of a fix ?


----------



## rationalthinking

I know I read somewhere in this thread about how to load a color correction profile.

Downloaded a color correction profile and loaded it up. How do I set that profile?

My Crossovers are pixel perfect, but.. they are on the warmer side. I say they are around 2500-3000K and want it around 3500-4000K


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LTC*
> 
> Got the green PCB as well, don't know whether this is good, or bad?


The blue PCB is the one with the problems, so you are probably good with that.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mullum*
> 
> since updating to OSX 10.7.5 (at least I think the problem is since the update) Ive been getting somewhat garbled text on the Crossover as a secondary display to my iMac.
> OSX says the display is running at 2560x1440 and photos seem fine - but text (or text/menus etc in applications) are no longer clear. Reboot doesnt help. Probably the best way to describe the problem is with the images below :
> text on my imac screen :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> text on the crossover :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone else experiencing this - know of a fix ?


That looks like more of an OS issue than a problem with the monitor. Has you tried holding down the Option key (Alt) and the Command key at the same time, then pressing the minus key?


----------



## mullum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> That looks like more of an OS issue than a problem with the monitor. Has you tried holding down the Option key (Alt) and the Command key at the same time, then pressing the minus key?


Yes I have - its not related to zooming, but yes I'm pretty sure its OSX related - Ive also tried connecting the monitor to a 2012 Macbook Air running mountain lion (10.8.1) and have exactly the same issue.

As its is - it makes the second monitor (in this case my Crossover) unusable. I've tried searching to see if others are having the issue but despite trying several search terms Im not finding anything .. you'd think if Im having this then thousands of others would be too.

It may be related to using the mini displayport to dual link dvi-d adapter - a piece of hardware from apple which has had some notoriety in the past ...


----------



## tehpsyc

So I purchased one of these power adapters:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/235153/45W_Step-Up_Voltage_Converter

and used the korean plug the monitor came with in an attempt to not destroy another MOSFET. After about 10 minutes of use it got really hot and died (the converter). The power rating seemed to be appropriate for what the monitor uses so I have no idea why it died. I had purchased an open box model. Thinking I got a bad converter, I exchanged it and paid the difference for a new one only to have that one die in the same time frame. Is this adapter not compatible with the monitor and I'm killing them, or did I get two different adapters that were bad?


----------



## strap624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> So I purchased one of these power adapters:
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/235153/45W_Step-Up_Voltage_Converter
> and used the korean plug the monitor came with in an attempt to not destroy another MOSFET. After about 10 minutes of use it got really hot and died (the converter). The power rating seemed to be appropriate for what the monitor uses so I have no idea why it died. I had purchased an open box model. Thinking I got a bad converter, I exchanged it and paid the difference for a new one only to have that one die in the same time frame. Is this adapter not compatible with the monitor and I'm killing them, or did I get two different adapters that were bad?


That converter is rated at 45W, is that sufficient for the monitor?


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strap624*
> 
> That converter is rated at 45W, is that sufficient for the monitor?


The monitor is 65W AFAIK.


----------



## strap624

That's why it's burning up then. I figured it would be over 45w.


----------



## Karail

I checked the power consumption with my energy meter. 87-90 watts at full brightness with white background. With the brightness settings i use (which is pretty low) it consumes 45-65 watts depending on what is being displayed.

I have the welltronics power brick and i live in EU (230v)


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> I checked the power consumption with my energy meter. 87-90 watts at full brightness with white background. With the brightness settings i use (which is pretty low) it consumes 45-65 watts depending on what is being displayed.
> I have the welltronics power brick and i live in EU (230v)


Thanks, I also have that brick, and was getting the flickering issues. I picked up that korean adapter to see if it would resolve my mosfet overheating, but i also picked up a quality UPS and I've been running at max brightness using the new UPS and the old american plug for about an hour now with no flickering. My apartment is old and the electrical wiring is probably pretty bad, so maybe my dead mosfet was the result of ****ty wiring? I've had some other electrical issues in the past.

And I'm showing 99 watts of usage at max brightness. Do you think there is any benefit to getting a stronger korean converted to output the native voltage/hz to the monitor with this power brick? I don't want to destroy another pcb

EDIT: also, the welltronics brick gets pretty hot for me, not like so hot that I can't touch it, but beyond what I'd describe as warm. Does yours feel that way as well?


----------



## strap624

This monitor runs on 24v DC right? What is the AMP output rating on the power bricks?


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> And I'm showing 99 watts of usage at max brightness. Do you think there is any benefit to getting a stronger korean converted to output the native voltage/hz to the monitor with this power brick? I don't want to destroy another pcb


Yeah i think that might be the solution. Can't say for sure though cause i'm not an expert. I would propably buy this and hope it solves the problem.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Bright-VC200W-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B000MW83OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1340984136&sr=8-2&keywords=200w+converter


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strap624*
> 
> This monitor runs on 24v DC right?


That's what my power brick says. I checked the pins on the brick and they did output 24v dc.

110-240v 1.5 amps
24v 5 amps


----------



## strap624

And the monitor itself, does it have a label that states it's power input parameters? it should have an AMP input rating


----------



## Karail

There is a label but its all in korean. Can't make anything out of it expect "27" and "LCD".


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> It was a Korean holiday I think.


AW responded yesterday to an email I sent him on Sunday regarding a missing HDMI port on the monitor. Very straight forward - they are going to suggest an alternative to shipping it back for something so minor (its the 2nd HDMI port on the monitor).


----------



## strap624

AH! Mine just got delivered! Box had a tear in it but monitor looks good. Will set up tonight once I get home.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> Yeah i think that might be the solution. Can't say for sure though cause i'm not an expert. I would propably buy this and hope it solves the problem.
> http://www.amazon.com/Power-Bright-VC200W-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B000MW83OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1340984136&sr=8-2&keywords=200w+converter


I've been running the monitor pretty much constantly at max brightness for the last 4 hours and the new surge/UPS device seems to have, at least for the moment, halted the flickering issue. I'm still gonna go ahead and purchase this power converted with the hopes of reducing the temps of the power brick and further minimizing mosfet overheating, but I'm feeling better about all this.


----------



## WiKKeDWuN

Sorry if this has been answered already. But has someone successfully been able to convert DVI to HDMI on the Crossover 27q. So what I'm trying to do is run my xbox 360 on the Crossover that only has DVI. Is there a converter I need or just a DVI to HDMI cable? And then I would like to know if there is a way to split HDMI's audio and video so I can listen to the sound on external speakers or headphones. I think I saw this answered before but I've searched and can't find the answer. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiKKeDWuN*
> 
> Sorry if this has been answered already. But has someone successfully been able to convert DVI to HDMI on the Crossover 27q. So what I'm trying to do is run my xbox 360 on the Crossover that only has DVI. Is there a converter I need or just a DVI to HDMI cable? And then I would like to know if there is a way to split HDMI's audio and video so I can listen to the sound on external speakers or headphones. I think I saw this answered before but I've searched and can't find the answer. Thanks in advance.


Nope, non multi input korean monitors do not have a scaler and only accept a dual link dvi signal, which the xbox can't do as there is the hdmi bandwidth limitation and no 1440p support on old hardware such as 360. Next Gen 720 and ps4, possibly if they support display port then you can use a active dp to dl-dvi adapter... but now. no


----------



## MaximusDecimus

I just bought two Crossover 27p monitors from a eBay seller named dshammer, and I am having a problem getting both of them to work at the same time. I have a EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Ti video card which has a DVI-I output (which is working) and a DVI-D output (which isnt sending signal). I can only get one monitor to work at a time. I have tested both monitors on the DVI-I output on the video card and they work when plugged in there, but when I plug into the DVI-D port then the monitors do not show anything, just a red light. I have tested both cables and they both work on the top port, so I am assuming its something with the video card not outputting probably on the DVI-D output port.

I talked to EVGA Support and they said to buy a GTX 570 instead that has dual DVI-I ports and that should work. Does this seem right?


----------



## strap624

Found this transformer:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Voltage-Converter-18C918?Pid=search


----------



## strap624

GOT IT! 1 bad pixel. otherwise perfect!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaximusDecimus*
> 
> I just bought two Crossover 27p monitors from a eBay seller named dshammer, and I am having a problem getting both of them to work at the same time. I have a EVGA GeForce GTX 660 Ti video card which has a DVI-I output (which is working) and a DVI-D output (which isnt sending signal). I can only get one monitor to work at a time. I have tested both monitors on the DVI-I output on the video card and they work when plugged in there, but when I plug into the DVI-D port then the monitors do not show anything, just a red light. I have tested both cables and they both work on the top port, so I am assuming its something with the video card not outputting probably on the DVI-D output port.
> I talked to EVGA Support and they said to buy a GTX 570 instead that has dual DVI-I ports and that should work. Does this seem right?


evga is incorrect. Does the monitors work with just 1 plugged into dvi-d? I have mine running on -i and -d on my 670s


----------



## WRXed

I've been following this thread and just received my Crossover today. I purchased the 2720MDP GOLD on Sep 27 from accessorieswhole. The monitor arrived well packed and wrapped in bubble wrap like others have experienced. Mine also has the single HDMI port, and an open hole in place of a second. I don't think it's a huge deal, since I don't need both.

When powering on the monitor makes a humm then a little pop. Hopefully that's nothing to worry about. The pop sounds like it may be the speakers, though I'm not using them, and have nothing plugged into the audio input. I checked the panel close and couldn't find a single dead or stuck pixel. I got the MDP so I could use it on PC as well as a secondary display for my 27" iMac. Today I discovered my monoprice mini display port > hdmi adpator only supports up to 1080p, so I plan to grab a mini display port > regular display port cable and use the DP input for the iMac. My PC is using DVI. The screen looks great, and is definitely comparable to the iMac. For the price it's an awesome deal.

The stock stand wasn't bad at all. It was fairly sturdy. I had ordered a new stand that supported height adjustment and rotating the screen so I swapped that stand on after my initial test.(link)




I used another PC power cable, instead of the included power cable with the adapter.


My ports, with the missing HDMI.


First power on.


First comparison with the iMac.


No dead pixels.


Stand comparison, on the left is the 3M , and right is stock (non-pivot).


The 3M's mounting panel is slimmer than the stock one, so I used the stock back plate and the stock screws. The stand works well, now I can adjust height, tilt, and orientation (landscape/portrait).



3M stand Rotated.


3M stand height aligned to iMac.


----------



## nisc24

I took off the back case and sure enough, the mofset looks to be burned up

I emailed accessorieswhole.. in the meantime have we figured out the cause yet?

Even if she sends me a new board, if I just burn that one up too i'll be very sad =/


----------



## strap624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nisc24*
> 
> I took off the back case and sure enough, the mofset looks to be burned up
> I emailed accessorieswhole.. in the meantime have we figured out the cause yet?
> Even if she sends me a new board, if I just burn that one up too i'll be very sad =/


what color PCB do you have?


----------



## BiggaWhat

Yo, I'm considering buying one of these but had a few questions first. First, I have a HD 7950, which isn't technically on the compatibility list, but will it still work? I remember reading somewhere that if its not compatible it might turn on, but you probably won't be able to access the BIOS, which would be a deal breaker for me.

Also, is BigClothCraft generally considered to be one of the better sellers on ebay? If not who is.

Lastly, for people who game at 1440p, what has your experience been like? I'm worried about 1. ghosting/input latency and 2. the higher resolution destroying my framerate. Thanks!

Edit: On second thought, from reading through the past few pages I'm seeing a lot of horror stories lol. Is quality decreasing or are the monitors just proving to not be reliable?


----------



## eris19xx

I am considering to buy this CROSSOVER 3020MDP can some one give me some feedbacks about this monitor? I did not found any review

Only this video... http://27.1.16.135/video/100423635


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nisc24*
> 
> I took off the back case and sure enough, the mofset looks to be burned up
> I emailed accessorieswhole.. in the meantime have we figured out the cause yet?
> Even if she sends me a new board, if I just burn that one up too i'll be very sad =/


Once the MOSFET has burned up your options are pretty limited. You'll have to either replace the whole board, which is the easier of the two, or replace just the mosfet, which requires some tricky soldering.

From my experience so far, it looks like this is just an issue of the American voltage putting additional stress on the MOSFET. After trying a bunch of stuff and doing some reading, you have a couple options for protecting your new MOSFET that seem to have been effective for me. Quick background, my MOSFET also burned up and the backlight failed completely, my eBay seller (Red-cap) sent me a replacement PCB (unfortunately another teal one), which I installed. After about 2 hours of use I started getting flickering again with the new MOSFET so I decided to change stuff around since it was clearly overheating again. Your options are:

1. Install a heatsink on the offending MOSFET. This will help mitigate some of the heat, but usually isn't enough on its own. Newegg has a 10 pack of MOSFET heatsinks that fit nicely and do a decent job.

2. Run the monitor on American voltage through a really good surge protector and UPS that is going to clean/regulate the voltage coming in. (This actually was the first thing that gave me positive results and stopped the flickering even at maximum brightness, though it was with a heatsink installed as well)

3. Obtain and use a voltage converter to run the monitor at its native/intended voltage.

Currently I'm using method 1 and 2 and it seems to have been enough to mitigate the problem (just the heatsink by itself was still giving me flickering). I have ordered a voltage converter and will be adding that to the mix, as people have reported overall lower temperatures in both the monitor and the brick using the native voltage. When choosing a voltage converter make sure you get something that can handle the monitor. At max brightness the monitor uses ~100W, so a 200W one gives you lots of room. The final option of course is to contact your seller on eBay and request the green-colored PCB that doesn't have these issues. Maybe you'll get lucky and get one of those. I think either way though, its probably a good idea to regulate the voltage going in to these monitors since the components seem to be pretty picky.

UPDATE: 200W voltage converter has not yet arrived, but flickering has resumed on the monitor despite the heatsink and surge/UPS. It's gonna remain disconnected until the converter gets here


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Once the MOSFET has burned up your options are pretty limited....


Tehpsyc, sound analysis. I have a green PCB with 3 mosfets (does that mean 3 phases of power? I think so...not an expert though). Still, I have been running it off of that 200W voltage transformer that I mentioned earlier. Corresponding to what you said, I have seen a noticeable drop in temperature on the mosfet surface and the included power brick surface.

Question though, what exactly did you have to tell red-cap for him to send you a replacement PCB?


----------



## strap624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiggaWhat*
> 
> Yo, I'm considering buying one of these but had a few questions first. First, I have a HD 7950, which isn't technically on the compatibility list, but will it still work? I remember reading somewhere that if its not compatible it might turn on, but you probably won't be able to access the BIOS, which would be a deal breaker for me.
> Also, is BigClothCraft generally considered to be one of the better sellers on ebay? If not who is.
> Lastly, for people who game at 1440p, what has your experience been like? I'm worried about 1. ghosting/input latency and 2. the higher resolution destroying my framerate. Thanks!
> Edit: On second thought, from reading through the past few pages I'm seeing a lot of horror stories lol. Is quality decreasing or are the monitors just proving to not be reliable?


my 5870 works fine, I assume the newer cards should work too.


----------



## barvybe

Hey WRXed

- i have the same buzz and pop - so FWIW that seems standard to the Gold.
BTW - I wrote AW about the empty HDMI port. He responded that the manufacturer is switching from HDMI 1 to 1.6 (might have the versions wrong). Doesn't really explain why its empty though. He said he would "compensate" for it...but haven't gotten any detail on that yet. Will let you know.

I'm currently using HDMI cable which doesn't allow the max resolution of the monitor. Mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable arrives today. Purchased on Amazon. If it comes through flicker free, etc. I'll post the brand and link. I have a MBP Retina on the other end.

Interesting that at the apple store they don't have that type of cable and you have to go buy them 3rd party....


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghabhaducha*
> 
> Tehpsyc, sound analysis. I have a green PCB with 3 mosfets (does that mean 3 phases of power? I think so...not an expert though). Still, I have been running it off of that 200W voltage transformer that I mentioned earlier. Corresponding to what you said, I have seen a noticeable drop in temperature on the mosfet surface and the included power brick surface.
> Question though, what exactly did you have to tell red-cap for him to send you a replacement PCB?


I had originally had a really bad flicker on my back light which I did not attribute to the overheating MOSFET (didn't know it was an issue). I had sent red-cap a video of the flickering, and then explained that the monitor's back light had completely died a day later. He was the one who decided it was my PCB that was having an issue and mailed the replacement. After he indicated he thought that the PCB was the issue I popped open the monitor and sure enough the MOSFET was burned up and discolored. So, I sent red-cap a confirmation picture of this and he agreed the PCB was the issue. I then did some reading through this thread knowing what to look for and found all the old information of others with this issue.

As far as the 3 mosfets, not sure honestly. I'm no expert in this area either, but from what I've read there haven't been any reports of the green board failing, so whatever is different about it appears to be protective of this issue. My 200W power converter should be arriving today, so I will report whether I notice temperature improvements and will probably do a full backlight burn-in test and see if I get any flickering.


----------



## Karail

I'm pretty sure there is a design flaw with the blue pcb. Here is a picture to compare the mosfets used in the blue and green pcb:



The mosfets used on the green pcb have double the ratings compared to the ones used on the blue pcb. The green pcb's seem to have 2-3 mosfets on them compared to the blue pcb which has only one mosfet on it. I'm only guessing here, but i think the mosfet is operating out of its specifications thus producing excessive heat which kills the mosfet. By fixing a heat sink on the mosfet you can prolong the life of the mosfet (less heat, less degradation) but i think it will die eventually anyway. But then, i'm only guessing..


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> I'm pretty sure there is a design flaw with the blue pcb. Here is a picture to compare the mosfets used in the blue and green pcb:
> 
> The mosfets used on the green pcb have double the ratings compared to the ones used on the blue pcb. The green pcb's seem to have 2-3 mosfets on them compared to the blue pcb which has only one mosfet on it. I'm only guessing here, but i think the mosfet is operating out of its specifications thus producing excessive heat which kills the mosfet. By fixing a heat sink on the mosfet you can prolong the life of the mosfet (less heat, less degradation) but i think it will die eventually anyway. But then, i'm only guessing..


Well as I was reading through your post my monitor started flickering again despite being on the surge/UPS that seemed to sustain it for the last day. My power converter gets here today, do you think the MOSFET issue is because of the different voltages or is just a design flaw? I've already sent a message to red-cap requesting a green PCB. Does anyone know if there's a seller/source who would sell the green PCB? Red-cap's english isn't great so trying to specifically request a different PCB might be challenging.


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well as I was reading through your post my monitor started flickering again despite being on the surge/UPS that seemed to sustain it for the last day. My power converter gets here today, do you think the MOSFET issue is because of the different voltages or is just a design flaw?


I think it could be both, a design flaw and different voltages. I can't tell for sure, but most likely its a prolem with the blue/teal pcb. We have not seen a person with a green pcb to encounter this problem. Not that i know of.


----------



## tehpsyc

I sent a message to red-cap asking for a green replacement PCB. For those looking to request it as well, the model is apparently FIF22LD-04A. I also sent a message to AW to see if he'd be willing to sell me one, or perhaps list is as an item on eBay so many of us could purchase it. I'll report back with his response, but all the sellers are still on holiday I think. I'll also let you know if my 200W converter remedies the situation when it arrives.

EDIT: Messaged green-sum as well


----------



## strap624

I have not yet taken apart my monitor, but from what I can see I have the GREEN PCB, upon further inspection I see another smaller TEAL PCB which the DVI and power plug into. This TEAL one is not the board in question right?


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strap624*
> 
> I have not yet taken apart my monitor, but from what I can see I have the GREEN PCB, upon further inspection I see another smaller TEAL PCB which the DVI and power plug into. This TEAL one is not the board in question right?


Correct, the teal PCB in the center of the monitor is the main board, and not the cause of the backlight issues. Its the smaller daughterboard to the right (facing the back of the monitor) that you want to be green.


----------



## Azefore

Just checked myself, I have teal PCBs where the vesa mounting is and then another green PCB on the right hand side of that, is that what I'm looking for? Haven't been using the 27Qs since I started reading about the mosfets burning out.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Just checked myself, I have teal PCBs where the vesa mounting is and then another green PCB on the right hand side of that, is that what I'm looking for? Haven't been using the 27Qs since I started reading about the mosfets burning out.


Sounds like you're in the clear. As far as I know, only the LED controller board comes in two variants. So if you see a green board, you're probably ok since the only green board seems to be the good LED controller. The main board is teal, and if the LED controller matches in color you may have a MOSFET issue. I'll trade you my teal one


----------



## strap624

Good, love this monitor. ONE white dead pixel in lower left corner about 1/2" from the bezel barely noticeable unless its on a completely black screen. Slight light bleed from lower right corner but very very minimal. Color seemed to be a bit warm though. I toned it down with CCC. Power brick does not seem to get very hot and neither does the monitor. I used a standard power cord to the brick, the adapter provided does not have a ground which I feel is important.


----------



## WRXed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Hey WRXed
> - i have the same buzz and pop - so FWIW that seems standard to the Gold.
> BTW - I wrote AW about the empty HDMI port. He responded that the manufacturer is switching from HDMI 1 to 1.6 (might have the versions wrong). Doesn't really explain why its empty though. He said he would "compensate" for it...but haven't gotten any detail on that yet. Will let you know.
> I'm currently using HDMI cable which doesn't allow the max resolution of the monitor. Mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable arrives today. Purchased on Amazon. If it comes through flicker free, etc. I'll post the brand and link. I have a MBP Retina on the other end.
> Interesting that at the apple store they don't have that type of cable and you have to go buy them 3rd party....


That's good to know the power on noise appears to be standard with the gold. Regarding the empty HDMI, definitely report back with what AW offers. Maybe I will try the same. The HDMI technically should support the native resolution if its version 1.4. I think OSX isn't showing all available resolutions, according to this thread on macrumors. When looking up my Mini DP > HDMI monoprice adapter it only said up to 1920x1080, so that could be it as well. Regardless, I'm also going the DisplayPort route. I just ordered this cable last night which should allow the full 2560 resolution from the iMac.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WRXed*
> 
> That's good to know the power on noise appears to be standard with the gold. Regarding the empty HDMI, definitely report back with what AW offers. Maybe I will try the same. The HDMI technically should support the native resolution if its version 1.4. I think OSX isn't showing all available resolutions, according to this thread on macrumors. When looking up my Mini DP > HDMI monoprice adapter it only said up to 1920x1080, so that could be it as well. Regardless, I'm also going the DisplayPort route. I just ordered this cable last night which should allow the full 2560 resolution from the iMac.


As far as I have been able to tell, there is no X to HDMI adapter that will do above 1920x1200.


----------



## WRXed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> As far as I have been able to tell, there is no X to HDMI adapter that will do above 1920x1200.


I see. Good thing I'll be ditching the adaptor.


----------



## HPE1000

Some questions for you guys, how much better will 2560x1440 be on a 27" screen when compared to 1920x1080 on a 24" screen? And what will games running at 1080p look like on a 2560x1440 screen? Because some games do not go above 1080p.

Also, is there any way to get an xbox to run on it even if it has a hdmi connection? I know it will not run the xbox at 2560x1440, but I just dont know much about these quadhd screens much.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Sounds like you're in the clear. As far as I know, only the LED controller board comes in two variants. So if you see a green board, you're probably ok since the only green board seems to be the good LED controller. The main board is teal, and if the LED controller matches in color you may have a MOSFET issue. I'll trade you my teal one


Sounds good to me lol, was going to be depressed if they turned out to be duds or a hassle. Could've bought a mid tier zoom telephoto for my camera and was kicking myself in the pants about it. And ok lol, just $100 for each of them


----------



## donnydorko

i plan on buying a 2nd crossover but its been a few months, which sellers are the most reputable as of now , and good at not sending doa monitors?


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WRXed*
> 
> I see. Good thing I'll be ditching the adaptor.


Ditto - couldn't find anything at higher resolution than that with HDMI.

I ordered this cable: Accell B119B-007J UltraAV Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable

Had read a few comments on the one you purchased that there was flicker, etc. and that this was resolved with a different cable. So I spent $8 more for one that seemed to have universally good results. Will be curious if the one you got works out or not - certainly hope so. I wanted to just be done and over with no returns, etc.

Will keep you posted on what if anything AW offers to compensate....

- P


----------



## strap624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donnydorko*
> 
> i plan on buying a 2nd crossover but its been a few months, which sellers are the most reputable as of now , and good at not sending doa monitors?


Accessories Whole, BCC, seem to be the top. I bought mine from TA_planet, no issues.


----------



## mullum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WRXed*
> 
> I got the MDP so I could use it on PC as well as a secondary display for my 27" iMac. Today I discovered my monoprice mini display port > hdmi adpator only supports up to 1080p, so I plan to grab a mini display port > regular display port cable and use the DP input for the iMac. My PC is using DVI.


I see you intend to use your crossover with your iMac and you will be using a mini-display port (MDP) to display port (DP) cable.
Once you have this setup - could you let me know your results please ?
It would be essential for me to know what version of OSX you are using.
I have a 2011 27" iMac and I'm using the crossover (the 27Q LED-P) with an Apple MDP to dual link DVI-D adapter. Previously everything worked flawlessly - but recently (I believe since the OSX 10.7.5 update) Ive been getting garbled text on the crossover. You can see pictures in my post about it on this thread - page 293, post 2928.


----------



## WRXed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Ditto - couldn't find anything at higher resolution than that with HDMI.
> I ordered this cable: Accell B119B-007J UltraAV Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable
> Had read a few comments on the one you purchased that there was flicker, etc. and that this was resolved with a different cable. So I spent $8 more for one that seemed to have universally good results. Will be curious if the one you got works out or not - certainly hope so. I wanted to just be done and over with no returns, etc.
> Will keep you posted on what if anything AW offers to compensate....
> - P


There are a bunch of positives as well. Oh well, I'll take my chance with the cable I got. Yours looks a bit better though. I will give an update when I get it.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donnydorko*
> 
> i plan on buying a 2nd crossover but its been a few months, which sellers are the most reputable as of now , and good at not sending doa monitors?


please search through the thread. it's like we talk about this everyday lol


----------



## Azefore

For those getting a DP-MDP display adapter I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N3DTKY/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00 works perfectly with my ACD on my 670, no abnormalities, etc, cheap too.


----------



## tehpsyc

Well I got my 200W converter and have been running at max brightness for about 2 hours now, so far no flickering. The power brick however is very hot, almost burns to touch for too long (hotter than its ever been without the converter). Not sure exactly what to make of that, but I guess if it prevents the flickering then I can live with it, assuming the brick doesn't die.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well I got my 200W converter and have been running at max brightness for about 2 hours now, so far no flickering. The power brick however is very hot, almost burns to touch for too long (hotter than its ever been without the converter). Not sure exactly what to make of that, but I guess if it prevents the flickering then I can live with it, assuming the brick doesn't die.


Would you mind taking a pic of your power brick and the PCB thru the ventilation (back, right side)? just wanna see if its blue/teal - the pcb that seems to be the problem.

Thanks


----------



## tehpsyc

I have the weltronics brick and the blue/teal PCB, this my second PCB. I've had it die once, removed it and replaced it with another PCB, both teal, and have since started to run into issues again (although not so far with the 200W voltage converter).

I posted pictures a few pages back of my original PCB that I had removed and replaced if you wanna see it.


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WRXed*
> 
> There are a bunch of positives as well. Oh well, I'll take my chance with the cable I got. Yours looks a bit better though. I will give an update when I get it.


Yes, precisely. I think someone with my precise setup indicated he had some flicker problems, etc. so I just went with something else. Really they should all be the same!


----------



## tehpsyc

Well after using the 200W converter on my Crossover for the last 3 hours, the flickering has started up again. So it would appear that an additional heatsink on the MOSFET, Voltage converter, and UPS/surge protector isn't enough to cure this thing. I'm really hoping one of the guys comes through with a green PCB for me. In the meantime, I think I should maybe replace my power brick. Does anyone have a recommendation?

EDIT: Disregard this, I hadn't noticed the voltage converter had a jumper in the back that was incorrectly set, very good chance it was just passing through the US voltage and not stepping it up to 220, more testing is required.


----------



## dude120

My crossover just arrived and I'm thoroughly impressed. I've had zero issues with it thus far, and the picture looks phenomenal. However, I received what looks to be the blade after ordering the regular model. The box was a little damaged but the monitor seems fine. I see 0 stuck pixels and the quality of the image completely blows that of my TN panel out of the water. Are there any issues with the mosFETs on the blades? It doesn't seem to be getting warm at all.
Although the power brick is a little toasty.


----------



## strap624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude120*
> 
> My crossover just arrived and I'm thoroughly impressed. I've had zero issues with it thus far, and the picture looks phenomenal. However, I received what looks to be the blade after ordering the regular model. The box was a little damaged but the monitor seems fine. I see 0 stuck pixels and the quality of the image completely blows that of my TN panel out of the water. Are there any issues with the mosFETs on the blades? It doesn't seem to be getting warm at all.
> Although the power brick is a little toasty.


Pics? The teal colored PCB seems to be the culprit. However I don't know if the blade uses the same components.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude120*
> 
> My crossover just arrived and I'm thoroughly impressed. I've had zero issues with it thus far, and the picture looks phenomenal. However, I received what looks to be the blade after ordering the regular model. The box was a little damaged but the monitor seems fine. I see 0 stuck pixels and the quality of the image completely blows that of my TN panel out of the water. Are there any issues with the mosFETs on the blades? It doesn't seem to be getting warm at all.
> Although the power brick is a little toasty.


How does the quality look compared to something like a 24" 1080p monitor? And can you hook an xbox up to it? Because if I buy a 2560x1440 I would sell my 1080p monitor. I dont expect the xbox to play full res, I am not a noob. Just a noob on quadhd panels.


----------



## dude120

I'll post pics in a bit.
It's under the hutch on my desk, which was very difficult to fit the monitor into.
For now this is all I've got, but the blade model doesn't seem to be bad like people were complaining about. It's still a heck of a lot nicer than my I-Inc/hanns-g monitor.









Sorry about the bad quality image, it's rather difficult to take good quality pics with poor lighting with my phone.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> How does the quality look compared to something like a 24" 1080p monitor? And can you hook an xbox up to it? Because if I buy a 2560x1440 I would sell my 1080p monitor. I dont expect the xbox to play full res, I am not a noob. Just a noob on quadhd panels.


I've never seen image quality this good on a monitor. It's absolutely blowing me away how much of a step up this was from 1920x1200, which was the res of the monitor I've had for about 4 years.
No problems about the noob thing,you've just gotta do a bit of research.







The seller I bought from was Lightn.space, who I'd definitely buy from again. It did take them about a week to ship it, but the monitor has no problems and it really wasn't that bad of a wait, for the ~340 bucks I payed.
Hooking it up to an xbox...will probably not work. I can try hooking mine up this weekend and telling you if I'm successful, but from what I've heard, unless the monitor has an hdmi input, which would mean it also had a scaler, it would be unable to interface with a xbox. I'll update you though, if I get it to work. From what I've heard other posters say, it would work with next gen consoles. However, if you bought one of the more expensive crossovers you should be able to hook an xbox up no problem.


----------



## HPE1000

Okay then, I have no intention of buying the next gen consoles and dont feel like paying what is probably 100-200 more to get one with hdmi on it. I plan on getting one of these monitors for/around christmas.


----------



## dude120

Just watch fleabay, you might be able to pick up one of these or a shimian "on the cheap." There was a period of time where the catleaps were ~280 bucks for the base models, so best of luck.


----------



## Blindrage606

Just picked mine up in Sig for $280 shipped.


----------



## nisc24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strap624*
> 
> what color PCB do you have?


blue pcb, i'd take a picture but my camera isn't working on the phone

small black area about the size of a quarter on the back of the pcb, and the chip looks fried


----------



## nisc24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Once the MOSFET has burned up your options are pretty limited. You'll have to either replace the whole board, which is the easier of the two, or replace just the mosfet, which requires some tricky soldering.
> From my experience so far, it looks like this is just an issue of the American voltage putting additional stress on the MOSFET. After trying a bunch of stuff and doing some reading, you have a couple options for protecting your new MOSFET that seem to have been effective for me. Quick background, my MOSFET also burned up and the backlight failed completely, my eBay seller (Red-cap) sent me a replacement PCB (unfortunately another teal one), which I installed. After about 2 hours of use I started getting flickering again with the new MOSFET so I decided to change stuff around since it was clearly overheating again. Your options are:
> 1. Install a heatsink on the offending MOSFET. This will help mitigate some of the heat, but usually isn't enough on its own. Newegg has a 10 pack of MOSFET heatsinks that fit nicely and do a decent job.
> 2. Run the monitor on American voltage through a really good surge protector and UPS that is going to clean/regulate the voltage coming in. (This actually was the first thing that gave me positive results and stopped the flickering even at maximum brightness, though it was with a heatsink installed as well)
> 3. Obtain and use a voltage converter to run the monitor at its native/intended voltage.
> Currently I'm using method 1 and 2 and it seems to have been enough to mitigate the problem (just the heatsink by itself was still giving me flickering). I have ordered a voltage converter and will be adding that to the mix, as people have reported overall lower temperatures in both the monitor and the brick using the native voltage. When choosing a voltage converter make sure you get something that can handle the monitor. At max brightness the monitor uses ~100W, so a 200W one gives you lots of room. The final option of course is to contact your seller on eBay and request the green-colored PCB that doesn't have these issues. Maybe you'll get lucky and get one of those. I think either way though, its probably a good idea to regulate the voltage going in to these monitors since the components seem to be pretty picky.
> UPDATE: 200W voltage converter has not yet arrived, but flickering has resumed on the monitor despite the heatsink and surge/UPS. It's gonna remain disconnected until the converter gets here


Please update as soon as you get the converter and let me know what kind of results you get. I have no problem installing a heatsink, but my soldering skills are pretty subpar, so the converter + heatsink looks like the most realistic option at this point for me.

I contacted accessorieswhole (who i purchased from) and am waiting to hear back. Any chance of being able to find a replacement (green?) pcb online somehow?


----------



## lavis

Just posting back. I've had my monitor for 5 months and it's still working great. I'm still really pleased with my purchase. I'd buy another if I had enough room on my desk. Taken it to quite a few LAN parties. Lots stop and stare at it.


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well after using the 200W converter on my Crossover for the last 3 hours, the flickering has started up again. So it would appear that an additional heatsink on the MOSFET, Voltage converter, and UPS/surge protector isn't enough to cure this thing. I'm really hoping one of the guys comes through with a green PCB for me. In the meantime, I think I should maybe replace my power brick. Does anyone have a recommendation?
> EDIT: Disregard this, I hadn't noticed the voltage converter had a jumper in the back that was incorrectly set, very good chance it was just passing through the US voltage and not stepping it up to 220, more testing is required.


Definitely keep us posted with your results. BTW, the green PCB that I have is the one pictured (sorry for the crappy cellphone camera):


I did not get a chance to take pictures from the backside, but I'm pretty sure none of the mosfets are burned up. I wonder if they sell 3rd party LED driver boards? I was looking into Input boards, and I think I found the same board found in the 2720MDP Gold: http://www.innodisplay.co.kr/sub.html?s=2&tb=Controller&code=0 It is the the MStar VCB1500. Perhaps they have something similar to the LED driver boards.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> How does the quality look compared to something like a 24" 1080p monitor? And can you hook an xbox up to it? Because if I buy a 2560x1440 I would sell my 1080p monitor. I dont expect the xbox to play full res, I am not a noob. Just a noob on quadhd panels.


You need a MDP2720 with the HDMI inputs that will scale the res, the Xbox has no problem running on this monitor at 1920x1080 max HDMI output. Pics in post 1256 http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/1250#post_17508778

The Crossover is such good value for money. However I have developed a flickering problem with mine which is being investigated with my seller which I'll give the full story at its conclusion.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nisc24*
> 
> Please update as soon as you get the converter and let me know what kind of results you get. I have no problem installing a heatsink, but my soldering skills are pretty subpar, so the converter + heatsink looks like the most realistic option at this point for me.
> I contacted accessorieswhole (who i purchased from) and am waiting to hear back. Any chance of being able to find a replacement (green?) pcb online somehow?


Ok to update on my status, I had about 2-3 hours of time to use the monitor connected to the power converter last night. So far I cannot report any flickering, so it appears the converter may be working. However, this amount of testing time isn't significant to draw any real conclusions. I also want to comment and say the power brick still gets very hot, probably only a few degrees away from being too hot to hold. This occurs with or without the power converter.

I heard back from AW today indicating he does not sell replacement parts for these monitors (I purchased from red-cap). Here is his reply:
Quote:


> Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> 
> We are sorry to announce that we do not provide any spare parts for monitors for sales purpose.
> 
> Sincerely
> 
> - accessorieswhole


I have also contacted green-sum and redcap but they appear to still be on holiday.

Finally, if anyone has any other sellers they know of that might want to help us, here is the message I've sent out for you to steal. Hopefully we can get a cooperative seller. Feel free to use this:
Quote:


> I am wondering if you would be willing to sell me a replacement LED controller PCB for a crossover 27Q. I am interested in PCB model number FIF22LD-04A.
> 
> Of the two PCBs for the Crossover27Q, it is the one that is green in color, NOT teal.
> 
> This is the one I am interested in:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CPMaB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/ly4p7
> 
> 
> NOT this one:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/3VotI
> 
> 
> There are many other people interested in this part, as many are having their monitors fail after a few months with no way to repair them effectively.
> 
> Thank you for your time.


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Ok to update on my status, I had about 2-3 hours of time to use the monitor connected to the power converter last night. So far I cannot report any flickering, so it appears the converter may be working. However, this amount of testing time isn't significant to draw any real conclusions. I also want to comment and say the power brick still gets very hot, probably only a few degrees away from being too hot to hold. This occurs with or without the power converter.


Are you blasting the monitor at full brightness all the time? I know that it may seem like a good idea to max the brightness so that you know it works in extreme conditions. However i fear that the teal pcb just is so crappy that it will burn itself anyway and nullify the precautions you've taken (heatsink and voltage converter) to prolong its life. I remember you told that the flickering started again few hours after you had installed the new pcb. This leads me to believe the culprit might me the power brick too, or something else. This case sure has to be a major headache for you.
Quote:


> I heard back from AW today indicating he does not sell replacement parts for these monitors (I purchased from red-cap).


This sure is a let down. I bought my monitor from AW. Hopefully these green boards are of better quality. As a side note i have now seen 3 different designs of the green pcb. I assume they're all good since we haven't heard them burning up.

I checked the brick temperature with my IR digital thermometer and it was 43C (110F) with almost minimum brightness and maxing out the brightness didn't seem to do a big difference. The brick is on the warm side but i wouldn't describe it as being hot.


----------



## logic28

Does anybody know if Crossover (or any other make) produces a model with HDMI, Display Port and Digital TV ? (other than the Achieva QH270-IPS-TDP that seems to have being discontinued)


----------



## rationalthinking

Quote:


> where can i buy "apple cinema" stands on that site? or does anyone know where i can purchase a stand that is similar to apple monitor stands?


I would also like to know this.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> You need a MDP2720 with the HDMI inputs that will scale the res, the Xbox has no problem running on this monitor at 1920x1080 max HDMI output. Pics in post 1256 http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/1250#post_17508778
> The Crossover is such good value for money. However I have developed a flickering problem with mine which is being investigated with my seller which I'll give the full story at its conclusion.


Thanks a lot! I could sell my current monitor if I bought that one then.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> Are you blasting the monitor at full brightness all the time? I know that it may seem like a good idea to max the brightness so that you know it works in extreme conditions. However i fear that the teal pcb just is so crappy that it will burn itself anyway and nullify the precautions you've taken (heatsink and voltage converter) to prolong its life. I remember you told that the flickering started again few hours after you had installed the new pcb. This leads me to believe the culprit might me the power brick too, or something else. This case sure has to be a major headache for you.
> This sure is a let down. I bought my monitor from AW. Hopefully these green boards are of better quality. As a side note i have now seen 3 different designs of the green pcb. I assume they're all good since we haven't heard them burning up.
> I checked the brick temperature with my IR digital thermometer and it was 43C (110F) with almost minimum brightness and maxing out the brightness didn't seem to do a big difference. The brick is on the warm side but i wouldn't describe it as being hot.


Unfortunately I don't have a infrared thermometer but I'd bet my brick is getting past 43C. I suspect as well that the power brick is probably the variable that determines whether people with the blue pcb will ultimately experience failure, and how long it'll take. The weltronics brick, and others, act as the buffer between the different voltages and have to be able to accept a wide range since they are compatible with both countries. My suspicion was that they work better at the native Korean voltage, and that the monitor tolerates these better as well. These adapters probably aren't of the greatest quality, so some people I'm sure get better ones than others. So far burning away at max brightness my monitor has been ok using the 220V converter.

And yeah this has been a major headache, I'm hoping the 220V option proves to be effective, but ultimately I don't think I'm gonna be satisfied until I can get a green PCB. Also as far as AW is concerned, I didn't buy from him so he may be less willing to help me than he would you. I would understand if he wants to save his supply of replacement parts to better service his customers. But maybe green-sum or red-cap will come through.


----------



## tehpsyc

Well I tried lowering the brightness a little so it wouldn't be stressing the PCB too much and within 5 minutes the monitor started flickering. Damn it. Anyone have any recommendations where I can get a reliable power brick?


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Some questions for you guys, how much better will 2560x1440 be on a 27" screen when compared to 1920x1080 on a 24" screen? And what will games running at 1080p look like on a 2560x1440 screen? Because some games do not go above 1080p.
> Also, is there any way to get an xbox to run on it even if it has a hdmi connection? I know it will not run the xbox at 2560x1440, but I just dont know much about these quadhd screens much.


Please don't double post. People didn't reply to it originally because the exact same question was asked and answered just a few pages back.

2560x1440 is absolutely better on a 27" screen than 1920x1080 on a 24. It's not so much about the size, but the pixel density. This panel I believe is 0.2331mm, which is very low, and very good compared to a lot of stuff out there.

Not sure what you mean by 'games running at 1080p', what games can you name that are LIMITED to 1080P? Any game in the last 5 years scales up the resolution right up to what your monitor can do, so you shouldn't have any problems there. I will assume you're talking about PC games.

This monitor is NOT for the Xbox. I would highly advise against buying it if you want to plug in an Xbox. Multiple reasons as you are probably aware, the biggest of which is that Xbox only outputs 720p, so you're just blurring a tiny image in the first place.


----------



## anticommon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Ok to update on my status, I had about 2-3 hours of time to use the monitor connected to the power converter last night. So far I cannot report any flickering, so it appears the converter may be working. However, this amount of testing time isn't significant to draw any real conclusions. I also want to comment and say the power brick still gets very hot, probably only a few degrees away from being too hot to hold. This occurs with or without the power converter.
> I heard back from AW today indicating he does not sell replacement parts for these monitors (I purchased from red-cap). Here is his reply:
> I have also contacted green-sum and redcap but they appear to still be on holiday.
> Finally, if anyone has any other sellers they know of that might want to help us, here is the message I've sent out for you to steal. Hopefully we can get a cooperative seller. Feel free to use this:


Thought I'd check out this thread after owning my crossover for almost 3 months. What is all this business about failing?


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well I tried lowering the brightness a little so it wouldn't be stressing the PCB too much and within 5 minutes the monitor started flickering. Damn it. Anyone have any recommendations where I can get a reliable power brick?


Here is a power brick that was also posted on that thread I linked to several pages ago:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300555688796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#rpdId

I am sorry to hear that the converter didn't work. Definitely try messaging red-cap after he/she/they get back. Hang in there, buddy!


----------



## nisc24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Unfortunately I don't have a infrared thermometer but I'd bet my brick is getting past 43C. I suspect as well that the power brick is probably the variable that determines whether people with the blue pcb will ultimately experience failure, and how long it'll take. The weltronics brick, and others, act as the buffer between the different voltages and have to be able to accept a wide range since they are compatible with both countries. My suspicion was that they work better at the native Korean voltage, and that the monitor tolerates these better as well. These adapters probably aren't of the greatest quality, so some people I'm sure get better ones than others. So far burning away at max brightness my monitor has been ok using the 220V converter.
> And yeah this has been a major headache, I'm hoping the 220V option proves to be effective, but ultimately I don't think I'm gonna be satisfied until I can get a green PCB. Also as far as AW is concerned, I didn't buy from him so he may be less willing to help me than he would you. I would understand if he wants to save his supply of replacement parts to better service his customers. But maybe green-sum or red-cap will come through.


I think I'm going to at minimum try a new power brick, probably the one in the post above^

I'm sorry that you didn't receive very good news, I had some positive feedback from AW

"We've made request to Manufactuerer and we may have it early next week.
As soon as we have Green PCB, we will send it via Fedex. "

so hopefully with the green pcb and a new brick i'll get my amazing monitor back, and I'll probably buy another one


----------



## anmolkapoor

$550 for a Pixel Perfect 2720MDP GOLD. Price seems reasonable or should I renegotiate?.


----------



## tehpsyc

Red-cap is back from vacation and I finally got his reply to my PCB issue and request for a green PCB:
Quote:


> the information for green PCB is correct?
> crossover told us that the green one and blue one are same ( the blue one is better , they told )
> you tried overclock ?
> 
> thank you
> Sincerely yours
> Red-Cap


So it appears the crossover company is telling the sellers the blue one is better? Maybe its just cheaper for them to manufacture lol or the problems only crop up with the blue one in the US.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nisc24*
> 
> I think I'm going to at minimum try a new power brick, probably the one in the post above^
> I'm sorry that you didn't receive very good news, I had some positive feedback from AW
> "We've made request to Manufactuerer and we may have it early next week.
> As soon as we have Green PCB, we will send it via Fedex. "
> so hopefully with the green pcb and a new brick i'll get my amazing monitor back, and I'll probably buy another one


I'm quite jealous of you right now.


----------



## nisc24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> I'm quite jealous of you right now.


I received word from AW again (1 day turnaround???) and he/she said that the green pcb is on the way, fed ex has it arriving on Monday.

If this truly works out then AW is on point. But I still will probably order that new power brick just to be on the safe side. If I notice any flickering i'm going to have to install a heatsink as well.

I will update again whenever I receive the PCB, it's still in KR right now so I'm sure it might get pushed back with customs/etc.


----------



## tehpsyc

Keep us posted, I'm trying to get red-cap to send me a green one but he certainly doesn't ever do anything without making me jump through some hoops


----------



## SedoSan

Is there a crossover 30" club thread or is it also included in this one? I didn't check all 300 pages...
Anyways, I ordered 3 of those for eyefinity and received them yesterday, very nice and sturdy build however I got a small problem on 2 of them. One monitor has the power push button broken so now I can't turn it off/on. The other monitor doesn't have a power led (which is an aesthetic problem only...).

So, anyone knows how I can fix the push button problem?


----------



## WRXed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barvybe*
> 
> Ditto - couldn't find anything at higher resolution than that with HDMI.
> I ordered this cable: Accell B119B-007J UltraAV Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable
> Had read a few comments on the one you purchased that there was flicker, etc. and that this was resolved with a different cable. So I spent $8 more for one that seemed to have universally good results. Will be curious if the one you got works out or not - certainly hope so. I wanted to just be done and over with no returns, etc.
> Will keep you posted on what if anything AW offers to compensate....
> - P


Just an update that the mini DisplayPort > DisplayPort cable worked perfectly on my iMac. I plugged it in and switched the Gold over to DP, OSX instantly recognized it and used 2560x1440.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Hi all,

Myself i have a yamakasi 27" but my friend bought the crossover 27Q LED/LED-P.
He says he has red striped on his picture, from the boot on; it worked fine for like 5 minutes but now he has lines like this


(Not my or his picture, he found it online to show me the problem)

He's using the supplied dvi-d cable.

Anyone seen this before?


----------



## Crazy9000

I've seen that on video cards overclocked too high


----------



## TechnoChocolate

For the curious, this is what it's like to talk to dream-seller customer service. Weeks are marked in _blue_.

_Sept 13_ _[ I ordered a monitor from dream-seller.]_
_Sept 14
Sept 15
Sept 16
Sept 17
Sept 18_ _[ I received the monitor. It didn't come with a power adapter.]_
* TechnoChocolate* I didn't get an adapter. Send me one!
_Sept 19
Sept 20
Sept 21
Sept 22
Sept 23
Sept 24_ _[ I noticed that the monitor doesn't pivot all the way to 90°.]_
* TechnoChocolate* Send me an adapter already! Also, the monitor doesn't pivot all the way.
_Sept 25_ _[ Because I hadn't gotten a response in a week, I left negative feedback and opened a Buyer Protection thing.]_
_Sept 26_ *dream-seller* The adapter should be there? If not, we'll send you one.
* TechnoChocolate* It isn't. Please do. Also, the monitor doesn't pivot all the way.
* dream-seller* Sorry. Have you tried rotating it? Try again. Do you have an adapter? If not, we'll send you one.
* TechnoChocolate* The monitor only rotates to 85°. I don't have an adapter.
_Sept 27_ *dream-seller* I'm not sending you the adapter until you reverse your negative feedback.
* TechnoChocolate* You're not sending me the item I paid for until I leave positive feedback?
_Sept 28_ *dream-seller* I just sent it. Can you send me a video of the pivot problem?
* TechnoChocolate* Here's a video. _[ I sent them a video]_
_Sept 29
Sept 30
Oct 1 _* TechnoChocolate* When will the adapter arrive?
* dream-seller* You're not pushing the monitor hard enough. Try pushing harder. Here's the tracking number: _[they gave me a tracking number that apparently doesn't work]_
_Oct 2 _* TechnoChocolate* If I push any harder, it'll bend. What's the deal with the tracking number? When will my adapter arrive?
_Oct 3
Oct 4 _*dream-seller* We sent your adapter with Korea Office. It'll arrive within 14 days.
_Oct 5
Oct 6
Oct 7
Oct 8
Oct 9
Oct 10
Oct 11
Oct 12_ _[the adapter should arrive by this date]_

The product page advertises 3-5 day shipping. It'll take a month before I can even test the thing to see if it works. Don't buy from dream-seller.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Hi all,
> Myself i have a yamakasi 27" but my friend bought the crossover 27Q LED/LED-P.
> He says he has red striped on his picture, from the boot on; it worked fine for like 5 minutes but now he has lines like this
> 
> (Not my or his picture, he found it online to show me the problem)
> He's using the supplied dvi-d cable.
> Anyone seen this before?


I have that too.

I think something is getting hot which is causing it to have errors.


----------



## strap624

^^That sucks

I found TA_planet very easy to work with. It took a week for him to ship the monitor because he said there were "quality problems", but he found and sent me a great monitor, no light bleed and only 1 dead pixel in the corner.

Communication was very fast. 30 Mins in most cases, his slowest was a one day response.


----------



## tehpsyc

Don't close the buyer protection claim until you are completely satisfied and are provided with everything you paid for, otherwise you'll be at the seller's mercy


----------



## barvybe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WRXed*
> 
> Just an update that the mini DisplayPort > DisplayPort cable worked perfectly on my iMac. I plugged it in and switched the Gold over to DP, OSX instantly recognized it and used 2560x1440.


Nice!
Ditto for me. Everything looks good so far. I feel I need to run it for a few hours continuous though.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Red-cap is back from vacation and I finally got his reply to my PCB issue and request for a green PCB:
> So it appears the crossover company is telling the sellers the blue one is better? Maybe its just cheaper for them to manufacture lol or the problems only crop up with the blue one in the US.


Blue ones giving problems in the UK too but my seller is trying to obtain another pcb for me instead of me sending my monitor back.

Shame about other buyers here being given the run around by some sellers. I would demand a refund instead of being dicked about unless you have a perfect panel thats worth keeping, otherwise get a refund and go with one the reputable sellers mentioned instead.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> I have that too.
> I think something is getting hot which is causing it to have errors.


Just recieved pics of the actual problem, i hope anyone can tell whats wrong with the monitor.


It works ok for about a minute


Red artifacts


Even from the efi bios screen


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Just recieved pics of the actual problem, i hope anyone can tell whats wrong with the monitor.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works ok for about a minute
> 
> Red artifacts
> 
> 
> 
> Even from the efi bios screen


Same issue as with mine. dream-seller think's it's dead, so I'm going to get a refund when I can find a box to put the crossover box in, as the original box is too damaged. Anyone know where to buy a box that the crossover box would fit in? Fed Ex told me it would cost $60 to package it.


----------



## SedoSan

Since no one replied I guess i'll show the pictures of what I was talking about... I got 3 Crossover 30Q monitors and 2 of them have slight problems,

Monitor #1:


There is no power button switch, or more like (broken), any idea how to fix it or get the monitor to switch off by another method?

Monitor #2:


The power lid has came off (probably from shipping?)... not a big deal really.

Monitor #3:


No problems with this one really, just showing that this one is fine







...
From all 3 screens I didn't see any pixel problems and backlight bleeding is very minimum almost unnoticeable

The 3 happy screens together:

*The last screen is not on because I don't have an active mini-dp to dvi-dl converter... ordered it yesterday and waiting for it to arrive*


----------



## karn

G'day everyone.
I just ordered a white Crossover 27Q on Thursday and because this forum has been so helpful and informative, i want to give a little back by sharing my experiences thus far. The contributions mainly on this forum really helped me make an informed decision about upgrading the only original component of the first PC i ever built in 2004, still in use today... my 21" Samsung Syncmaster CRT. I've held off moving to LCD for as long as i could (despite ridicule from family and friends) but with intermittent green tinting across the whole screen, it's time to retire her.

I didn't want to go backwards in resolution from 2048x1536 to 1080p just for 120hz, and i don't know if i'd like AG coating, so i decided on a Korean 1440p 27"
Peoples experiences, good and bad helped me narrow down some of the more trustworthy sellers.

On Wednesday i messaged ta_planet, accesorieswhole and bigclothcraft on ebay at the same time, asking if their Crossovers have the troubled blue pcb, or the seemingly updated green pcb, and how long after payment could they despatch.
When i woke up i had a message from bcc saying they would have to check with the manufacturer and get back to me, and 1- 3 days to despatch after testing.

A couple hours later i recieved a message from accessorieswhole saying they have the green pcb, can ship on Friday but they don't have many white left.

I also got an automated message from ta_planet saying the were out of the office (due to the holiday)

Thursday i decided to order from AW. At $395 delivered they're a lil more expensive than some other sellers but after seeing the terrible feedback some of them have been receiving and the horror stories on here, i think paying a lil extra now is better for a reputable seller.
I have had prompt back and forth communication with AW since, confirming i wanted white and Friday despatch was still a go.

So far i am very happy with AW's communication. His English is great and is very polite. It gives me confidence that his after sale support will also be satisfactory should something go wrong *touch wood*
The monitor was despatched on Friday as promised and i'm looking forward to seeing it for myself after the glowing reviews i've read.

For the record i haven't heard back from ta_planet or bcc.

Will keep you posted.


----------



## tehpsyc

Congratulations on your purchase, I'm glad all this posting, complaining, and research about the blue PCB myself and others have been doing has helped you avoid the headache so many of us are experiencing. Aside from that issue, its a beautiful monitor and the metal casing makes it feel like a solid piece of hardware. I wish you luck, let us all know how the green PCB works for you and hope you enjoy your new monitor.


----------



## karn

Thank you very much








There is a wealth of knowledge on these forums, with 300+ pages on this one product alone, any questions i had had already been answered several times. I just had to go back a few pages.
It's also great to see people coming back many months later to give updates and share their success stories or problems.

I agree, i think the Crossover looks the best out of the 3 Korean monitors, and i'll finally have something white to match my white Switch 810


----------



## ahhui90

HI guys, I'm back here to update on my situation.

AW has sent me the replacement green PCB board for free (by fedex, mind you). And it has indeed solved the back light problem. It seems that the new board cannot be adjusted to the lowest brightness as compared to the old blue PCB board. I'd strongly recommend AW if you are going to get this monitor. Even though they don't reply to emails often but at least there's a response







.

I've fixed a 12cm fan behind to cool it


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> HI guys, I'm back here to update on my situation.
> AW has sent me the replacement green PCB board for free (by fedex, mind you). And it has indeed solved the back light problem. It seems that the new board cannot be adjusted to the lowest brightness as compared to the old blue PCB board. I'd strongly recommend AW if you are going to get this monitor. Even though they don't reply to emails often but at least there's a response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I've fixed a 12cm fan behind to cool it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's awesome







Now i can have peace of mind if my PCB ever fails. I had a proplem with my monitor when it arrived but AW was eager to sort it out. I have a green pcb (working good so far though) but it looks more simplified than the one you got. Just by comparing the components on those 2 pcbs in the upper picture you can tell the green one looks more solid (even though solid caps are not used) and there is a fuse on the pcb (mine doesn't have one).

One more reason to go with AW









BTW where do you get the power for that fan?


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*


This green pcb looks better built than the one with two caps. What's the part number?

I have one from AW and it's HQ-LED28-1A (from what I can tell through the vent). Green PCB. I Don't feel any heat during usage.

It's from a 27Q LED-P, but currently having issues with LED blanking out (backlight still working). AW is sending me a new power brick first.


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> HI guys, I'm back here to update on my situation.
> AW has sent me the replacement green PCB board for free (by fedex, mind you). And it has indeed solved the back light problem. It seems that the new board cannot be adjusted to the lowest brightness as compared to the old blue PCB board. I'd strongly recommend AW if you are going to get this monitor. Even though they don't reply to emails often but at least there's a response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I've fixed a 12cm fan behind to cool it


I read somewhere that you can reduce the brightness with some soldering on the newer boards, though I haven't been able to find a link to a solution. Does anyone have any information on that?


----------



## SedoSan

So anyways, these monitors are huuuuuuuuuuge and I love them... Why isn't the 30Q monitor included in this thread? coz i can't seem to find it included anywhere...


----------



## Delphiwizard

How difficult is it to swap the pcb's in the monitor?

And would a new pcb possibly solve the problem i mentioned in post 18306146 ?


----------



## tehpsyc

Swapping PCBs in this monitor is pretty trivial. The back panel is just held on but about a dozen screws and can be easily removed to access the PCBs. There are 3 total, one which has the power buttons and brightness control inputs, one that controls the LED brightness and is connected to the LCD LEDs, and the primary PCB which is connected to everything and has the DVI and power inputs on it.

Reading over your post, I would guess its an issue with the main PCB, not the LED PCB that everyone here is replacing and dealing with. While I haven't personally replaced mine, I don't think it'd be any more difficult. Just know though that all the people doing PCB replacements are doing it on the daughterboard PCB that controls the LED, not the motherboard PCB which I'd suspect is the source of your problems.


----------



## nisc24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahhui90*
> 
> HI guys, I'm back here to update on my situation.
> AW has sent me the replacement green PCB board for free (by fedex, mind you). And it has indeed solved the back light problem. It seems that the new board cannot be adjusted to the lowest brightness as compared to the old blue PCB board. I'd strongly recommend AW if you are going to get this monitor. Even though they don't reply to emails often but at least there's a response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I've fixed a 12cm fan behind to cool it


mine is scheduled for delivery tomorrow







great to hear that it is working out for you


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Swapping PCBs in this monitor is pretty trivial. The back panel is just held on but about a dozen screws and can be easily removed to access the PCBs. There are 3 total, one which has the power buttons and brightness control inputs, one that controls the LED brightness and is connected to the LCD LEDs, and the primary PCB which is connected to everything and has the DVI and power inputs on it.
> Reading over your post, I would guess its an issue with the main PCB, not the LED PCB that everyone here is replacing and dealing with. While I haven't personally replaced mine, I don't think it'd be any more difficult. Just know though that all the people doing PCB replacements are doing it on the daughterboard PCB that controls the LED, not the motherboard PCB which I'd suspect is the source of your problems.


Thanks for the info.

My friend contacted the seller and we'll see what he wants to do.
The big problem is that according to fedex shipping the monitor back to Seoul actually costs more then the monitor costs.
So shipping it back is a bit of a nono.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Thanks for the info.
> My friend contacted the seller and we'll see what he wants to do.
> The big problem is that according to fedex shipping the monitor back to Seoul actually costs more then the monitor costs.
> So shipping it back is a bit of a nono.


Really? dream-seller told me that it costs about $65.


----------



## SedoSan

It's as if my posts are invisible... Guys any thoughts of the 30Q5 Pro? Its a 30" crossover monitor with a pivot stand. And why can't I find it anywhere in any forum? its weird =\ maybe its a new monitor?


----------



## ahhui90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> That's awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i can have peace of mind if my PCB ever fails. I had a proplem with my monitor when it arrived but AW was eager to sort it out. I have a green pcb (working good so far though) but it looks more simplified than the one you got. Just by comparing the components on those 2 pcbs in the upper picture you can tell the green one looks more solid (even though solid caps are not used) and there is a fuse on the pcb (mine doesn't have one).
> One more reason to go with AW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW where do you get the power for that fan?


Hi, my power supply is modular, so I had a molex cable extended out from the back of my desktop casing to the monitor's fan








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> This green pcb looks better built than the one with two caps. What's the part number?
> I have one from AW and it's HQ-LED28-1A (from what I can tell through the vent). Green PCB. I Don't feel any heat during usage.
> It's from a 27Q LED-P, but currently having issues with LED blanking out (backlight still working). AW is sending me a new power brick first.


I didn't take a photo of the part number but iirc it is the same as what you mentioned. I'll still leave the fan there since it is unused. Can't risk any breakdowns on this monitor as I don't have a spare one








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghabhaducha*
> 
> I read somewhere that you can reduce the brightness with some soldering on the newer boards, though I haven't been able to find a link to a solution. Does anyone have any information on that?


The lowest brightness is fine for me


----------



## TechnoChocolate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Really? dream-seller told me that it costs about $65.


From what country?


----------



## tehpsyc

Well I heard back from dream-seller and it appears he also won't sell a green PCB to someone who didn't buy from him.
Quote:


> Thank you for your email.
> Unfortunately, we do not sell any parts of monitors.
> I'm sorry about couldn't help you out.
> 
> Warm Regards.
> 
> - dream-seller


That eliminates dream seller and AW as resources for getting a green PCB.

I'm still waiting to hear back from red-cap (my seller) about getting a green PCB. I made the mistake of linking to a picture or a post (the one about the MOSFET specs) from these forums to red-cap to support my claim that the green PCB is better; now I think he thinks I'm trying to over clock the monitor and that's why it's breaking haha. But hopefully he'll come through. If he can't get one I think I'm just gonna ask him to return it for a refund cause this has become such a headache, I'd rather just pick up a Shimian or something that's not experiencing all these issues


----------



## tehpsyc

I did some random digging and found the order phone number for replacement parts on the crossover Korean website using some google translate action. I speak no Korean which will obviously be a problem but if anyone has that skill and could give them a call and see if they'll ship parts to the US or if they have an English speaking person we could email you'd be doing us all a huge favor. Here is the line from their website that is of interest.
Quote:


> Purchase inquiries please contact us at 02-2120-3127.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SedoSan*
> 
> It's as if my posts are invisible... Guys any thoughts of the 30Q5 Pro? Its a 30" crossover monitor with a pivot stand. And why can't I find it anywhere in any forum? its weird =\ maybe its a new monitor?


More than most likely no one else has one of these 30" versions due to the price difference. It also pisses posters off with repeats of the same post within a page of each other try being a bit more patient not everyone has the leisure time to read forums everyday.

It might be worth starting a new thread entirely called the Korean 30" monitors owners club or something maybe it would attract a more wider audience.

I know thats not the answer your looking for though









Interesting input you could make to this thread though. If you do take your monitor apart at some point it would be worth you posting pics of the pcbs for comparison to see if the 27" and 30" versions share some parts.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SedoSan*
> 
> It's as if my posts are invisible... Guys any thoughts of the 30Q5 Pro? Its a 30" crossover monitor with a pivot stand. And why can't I find it anywhere in any forum? its weird =\ maybe its a new monitor?


this isn't the thread for that monitor


----------



## strap624

^well it is a good place to ask, specifically since its a crossover.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoChocolate*
> 
> From what country?


Korea to Canada.


----------



## Descadent

apparently noone has thoughts on the 30" then lol thats what there is no answer.

I can tell you the price diff for 3" bigger x 3 monitors isn't worth it to me.


----------



## KickingArs

My 27Q LED-P wont remember brightness. Once it's powered off then on, the brightness will be back at 100%. Is it normal of defective?


----------



## Gloomfrost

For the record, the quotes YOU get from shipping companies are NOT what the Korean shippers pay on return.

I have shipped my monitor back to BCC for exchange, confirming multiple times with him if he really wants it back because of the high shipping costs, he said that they have a good contract with DHL and shipping is less than $100.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> For the record, the quotes YOU get from shipping companies are NOT what the Korean shippers pay on return.
> I have shipped my monitor back to BCC for exchange, confirming multiple times with him if he really wants it back because of the high shipping costs, he said that they have a good contract with DHL and shipping is less than $100.


So, they aren't paying $600 to ship it back?








Seriously, that's the quote I got.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickingArs*
> 
> My 27Q LED-P wont remember brightness. Once it's powered off then on, the brightness will be back at 100%. Is it normal of defective?


Sounds like a defect to me, both my 27Q non-Ps stay at minimum brightness when I turn em on and off, sure someone else will have input tho


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickingArs*
> 
> My 27Q LED-P wont remember brightness. Once it's powered off then on, the brightness will be back at 100%. Is it normal of defective?


Mine remembers brightness, just tested it to be sure - lowered brightness to 0 turned it off via the power button (not unplugging it) and then back on - brightness still at 0. I guess if youre gonna have a defect that one isnt that bad


----------



## KickingArs

I see. I always turned it off by unplug the power plug. Guess that's the reason. It requires power to remember the brightness. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosDimension85*
> 
> @ Piezo
> Trust me the EMS shipping tracking info will never show up. I for instance was expecting the monitor some time next week and BAM! right at my doorstep. You'll get it sooner rather than later.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickingArs*
> 
> I see. I always turned it off by unplug the power plug. Guess that's the reason. It requires power to remember the brightness. Thanks!


Is there any particular reason why you're turning it off in the first place? I don't think it makes much power difference, I haven't turned a monitor off in years.


----------



## nisc24

UPDATE: Received my green pcb from AW (shipped oct 5, received oct 8, amazingly fast)

Installed and monitor looks as good as ever, 100% functional

Truly amazing deal as long as you have the green pcb and no other issues arise.

Still might go for a new power brick if I start noticing any flickering, and going to be more careful about shutting off the monitor and keeping the brightness low


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KickingArs*
> 
> My 27Q LED-P wont remember brightness. Once it's powered off then on, the brightness will be back at 100%. Is it normal of defective?


I tried with my 27Q-P and it keeps setting from both button-off and unplug-off. Left off for a few minutes. Tried for lowest, highest and somewhere in the middle setting.


----------



## mikelanding

Some good news regarding the supply of Green PCB from 1 korean supplier!
Since last week until now, I had been in contact with a Korean supplier (www.flatgate.co.kr). They have stock for this Green PCB LED Driver (Model: FIF22LD-04A)

Anyone who would like to purchase can Mr. HT Yang. Email is at this link: http://www.flatgate.co.kr/15.htm


----------



## tehpsyc

Wow excellent job, if I don't hear from my seller in the next day or 2 I'm gonna go that route, thanks!


----------



## tehpsyc

Also not to post twice in a row, but I obtained a new power brick and have been running at max brightness for about 5 hours with no flickering. So far a good sign, although if my history of posts is to be believed, about 5 minutes after I submit this it'll start


----------



## mikelanding

Ok. Price had sorted out. It is USD50 X 2 pcs = USD100 for the Green PCB.
He only able to accept Bank TT. Anyone need the green can contact him


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> So, they aren't paying $600 to ship it back?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, that's the quote I got.


No, I was the same way as you. DHL quoted me $1562.76 online once LOL. I think it might be cheaper to fly the monitor to Korea in business class as a child passenger. In retrospect, I should have taken a screenshot. But yeah, less than 100USD is what BCC e-mailed me.
I'm also in Toronto btw.
Also, I shipped it out with DHL last week, but when I called to book the pickup, the woman was super new on the phone and didn't give me an airway bill number, so now my shipment is AGAIN stuck somewhere without any tracking number (there technically is one, but it's an old duplicate), waiting for a trace and a call tomorrow to resolve (hopefully). I think this monitor has spent most of its life in a box so far... and will probably continue to.


----------



## FloJoe6669

Just wanted add that i pulled the trigger on a Crossover 27Q LED-P the other day, cost $380 USD ($375 AUD at the time).
Got it from BCC and it took 3 business days via DHL express to get here in Adelaide Australia.
First time my desktop came up on it... WOW... the clarity and colour and constrast and pixel density is incredible (formally using an Asus 1080p TN panel btw). i did however calibrate it as it had a green/blue tinge, but now its perfect (at least to my eye).
I DID NOT get the pixel perfect version, but my monitor has no dead and no stuck pixels!!








and since i got it from BCC they have included 1 year warranty, and they'll pay to ship it back to Korea. what lovely service!!







they also checked the monitor before they shipped it.
BCC included a Welltronics 110V-240V power brick, and a travel conversion adapter (dont know why since the brick is 110-240v), and a korean power cable (i just used a standard Aus one ( both 240V 5A capacity)).
overall im extremely happy with it and i highly recommend BigClothCraft to everybody considering buying this monitor.


----------



## FloJoe6669

sorry forgot to add that the power brick runs warm but definitely not hot, so all good!

And it appears i have a green PCB on the LEFT (everyone said theirs was on the right... oh well) hand side (facing the back) and a blue one in the middle. so it appears i have the green PCB version.


----------



## tehpsyc

I have heard back from someone at the Crossover manufacturers office who was very pleasant and eager to help, and his English seemed quite good. Hopefully this will be another valuable channel to get a source for replacement parts.

On a related note, red-cap finally responded back to me complaining that I'm having flickering issues again. This time he's demanding another video as well as me panning to the back of the monitor to display my serial number after the flickering has occurred, all must be in the same video file. I understand he needs to make sure there's a problem but after the 4 videos and repeated dealing with me (including me sending pictures of the fried PCB the first time around) I would think he wouldn't make me jump through hoops, as theres obviously a problem. It's frustrating cause in this stage with the replacement PCB the flickering is short in duration and infrequent, at least compared to before, so it's gonna take a while to get a clear video. Maybe Ill take my heatsink off that i installed and let it get hot







Hopefully the manufacturer will ultimately save me from this mess.


----------



## Cryingvoid

These monitors are all with scalers, I presume? Is there any input lag measurement for them?


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryingvoid*
> 
> These monitors are all with scalers, I presume? Is there any input lag measurement for them?


I'm pretty sure that these monitors do not have any scalers


----------



## farstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> I'm pretty sure that these monitors do not have any scalers


The 2720MDP certainly has a scaler. the easiest way to check is the number of inputs. If it's DVI-D only then don't count on a scaler (or on screen controlls). If it has inputs a-plenty then you have a scaler.

Personally, I prefer the 2720MDP which has multiple inputs (XBOX360 looks great on these) and has lag that this non-professional gamer does not notice and happily games with.


----------



## araman

So, purchased a led-P back in April and just now started getting the flickering Backlight issue. Sounds like I need to replace my pcb however I bought from dcsamsungmall, anyone have any dealings with that seller providing a green pcb? The direct order route for $100 to buy 2 seems awfully steep.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryingvoid*
> 
> These monitors are all with scalers, I presume? Is there any input lag measurement for them?


The 27Q (dvi only version) doesn't have a scaler. I don't know if there are any lag measurements but when I get my 27Q to work again, I'm going to try to see if there's a difference between it and my samsung T27A750.

Out of curiosity, I just did a test with my wireless mouse vs samsung T27A750 (60hz) using my camera at 1000fps.






It took around 5 seconds in the 30fps video... so around 150ms. Not very conclusive if it's the lag from mouse or screen.









probably have to pull out an old computer and find a ps2 mouse to compare.


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> So, purchased a led-P back in April and just now started getting the flickering Backlight issue. Sounds like I need to replace my pcb however I bought from dcsamsungmall, anyone have any dealings with that seller providing a green pcb? The direct order route for $100 to buy 2 seems awfully steep.


I assume that you have a blue pcb?


----------



## MagnaOverclock

Hi guys I plan to buy a new monitor and my budget is 450 €.
I The video card is an MSI GTX 680 Lighting
What monitor do you recommend?


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> I assume that you have a blue pcb?


I'm a little wet behind the ears when it comes to the interior on this hardware, but I cracked open the 2 small access panels on the back (didn't remove the entire back) and found the 3 pcbs referenced in this thread. The one in the middle of the monitor just behind where it mounts to the stand is most definitely blue but I can't get to the model# at this moment as that would require me taking off the entire back and I don't have time to do that before work here.

The one on the right (when looking at the back head on) is green with P22LDE04 Rev4 on the board.

If anyone can help me get started in the right direction for getting this resolved, that would be wonderful.
Thanks

Edit: Here's the board on the right, that I'm not certain is the one I should be paying attention to:
http://www.imgur.com/gm6lP.jpg
http://www.imgur.com/hHuSI.jpg


----------



## tehpsyc

Well after offering to pay the shipping ($30) red-cap has shipped me a new green PCB and its on its way. Looks like I finally rest easy with this monitor. Also I heard back from the crossover manufacturer, and while he was willing to help he pretty much said that they actively are supplying many eBay sellers, red-cap included, with replacement PCBs and that I should deal with him to get it replaced. That being said, for people who's sellers aren't available this could be a good channel to explore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> I'm a little wet behind the ears when it comes to the interior on this hardware, but I cracked open the 2 small access panels on the back (didn't remove the entire back) and found the 3 pcbs referenced in this thread. The one in the middle of the monitor just behind where it mounts to the stand is most definitely blue but I can't get to the model# at this moment as that would require me taking off the entire back and I don't have time to do that before work here.
> The one on the right (when looking at the back head on) is green with P22LDE04 Rev4 on the board.
> If anyone can help me get started in the right direction for getting this resolved, that would be wonderful.
> Thanks


Well that's not good, if you do in fact have a green PCB, then this is the first reported case of the green one also causing flickering. Could you take some pictures and upload them? The main board in the center behind where the stand connects to the monitor isn't of interest as far as the flickering issue is concerned, so don't worry about that.

EDIT:

That's definitely the green PCB that's supposed to be problem free. Figures the day I finally get mine shipped we learn that its not full proof









Look on the board for any signs of overheating/discoloration. Also what power brick were you provided with? If you could take a picture of the specs sticker on that I can maybe help rule in/out any problems with that.


----------



## araman

I edited my previous post with a few quick and dirty shots. Sorry I couldn't get better ones before heading out to work. Looks like I may have a different board altogether??


----------



## FloJoe6669

nice card Magna. anyone of the CrossOver 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED, & 2720MDP GOLD LED models will do. my personal preference is the LED-P version, buts thats just what i like.
2560x1440 with that card will run absolutely dandy







.


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> I'm a little wet behind the ears when it comes to the interior on this hardware, but I cracked open the 2 small access panels on the back (didn't remove the entire back) and found the 3 pcbs referenced in this thread. The one in the middle of the monitor just behind where it mounts to the stand is most definitely blue but I can't get to the model# at this moment as that would require me taking off the entire back and I don't have time to do that before work here.
> The one on the right (when looking at the back head on) is green with P22LDE04 Rev4 on the board.
> If anyone can help me get started in the right direction for getting this resolved, that would be wonderful.
> Thanks


That pcb looks pretty much the same as the one in the original post. Nothing looks burnt or charred though. Are any of the capacitors (those 5 round objects, 4 black and 1 yellow) bulging or leaking? It seems that that there are many different versions of the green pcb (i think i've seen 4 different designs so far). In this case i am not sure if it is the pcb at fault or the power adaptor. Or both.

tehpsyc: Have you had any flickering after you got the new power adaptor?


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> That pcb looks pretty much the same as the one in the original post. Nothing looks burnt or charred though. Are any of the capacitors (those 5 round objects, 4 black and 1 yellow) bulging or leaking? It seems that that there are many different versions of the green pcb (i think i've seen 4 different designs so far). In this case i am not sure if it is the pcb at fault or the power adaptor. Or both.
> tehpsyc: Have you had any flickering after you got the new power adaptor?


No leaking/bulging that I can see. I did, by the way, after having this issue start, replace the power adapter from the one I got with the monitor that I had been using. Am now using this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/300555688796?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

All seemed good for a few days, then it started up again.


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> No leaking/bulging that I can see. I did, by the way, after having this issue start, replace the power adapter from the one I got with the monitor that I had been using. Am now using this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/300555688796?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
> All seemed good for a few days, then it started up again.


Ok, that rules out the power brick as the cause of the problem. If there isn't any physical damage to be seen on the pcb there is no really telling if it's broken until you replace it. Your best bet is to ask the seller for a new pcb.


----------



## tehpsyc

So real quick lemme explain the circumstances of how I got a new power brick. I actually ended up ordering a Shimian monitor as well







I was tired of all the issues with the crossover and wanted to run dual 27"s anyway, so I went for it. I had been trying to use the Shimian's power brick on the monitor, which never had any flickering issues. However, when red-cap asked for a video of the flickering I switched back to the original. Oddly enough I haven't had any flickering since switching back either (only been using it for about a day though).

TLDR I haven't had any flickering issues using the new brick, but at the same time I only used it briefly and switched back to the original, and still haven't had any flickering issues.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> No leaking/bulging that I can see. I did, by the way, after having this issue start, replace the power adapter from the one I got with the monitor that I had been using. Am now using this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/300555688796?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160
> All seemed good for a few days, then it started up again.


Not to question you know what you're doing, but are you certain its a backlight flicker and not something else? also is it the whole monitor or just part, could actually be a bulb or something going bad. Most likely though its the green PCB which must not be perfect either


----------



## araman

Most definitely the whole monitor. I had similar thoughts you're having there and just to make sure did a full white screen and spot checked things with my eye. It's just as described from some other people in the thread. Starts out slowly and infrequently, but gradually gets worse - playing with the brightness levels on the monitor itself exacerbates the problem and accelerates the flickering. I can take a video when I get home from work as I don't have the unit accessible to me now.

Remember, my green PCB is different than the green PCB that's being described as the fixer so far - it's possible that getting the MStar one will solve my issue. I was an early adopter and got my monitor back in late March/early April so that would explain why I have the PCB given in the OP here. That also makes me think since it's been 6+ months that I'm going to be SOL when it comes to contacting my seller (dcsamsungmall) for a replacement board :\ Anyone want to go in on an order for the board x2 (since it looks like you can only order in pairs) from that channel someone posted earlier? I don't need two, but would be willing to split the cost with another person who needs one.

If anyone has any more thoughts, I'm open to any ideas that don't involve soldering, I'm determined to lick this thing!


----------



## binarysmacker

Hi everyone.

A few weeks ago I took the plunge and ordered a crossover 27Q from eBay from "lightnspace". For £212.

After being delayed due to "tythoons" in SK and also their thanksgiving.....and also UK customs I reieved the monitor today.

First really annoying thing. I ordered the 27Q but they sent me the 27QD. the one with the built in speakers. Its doesnt look as good as the 27Q. (anyone had this happen to them?)

Also not really a big issue but I was expecting it to be one flat piece of glass like the apple screens. Not a plastic frame around it. But oh well. (does any of these Korean scressn existed as one flat piece like the apple displays?)

Anyway.

So today I plugged it in but it seems dead.

The red light comes on but thats it.

The PC does detect it though and sets the right res for it and thinks its there. But just no image.

Ive tried 2 different DVI-D cables. Tried both ports on my card (ATI 6850), tried using an active DP to DVI adapter. Tried booting with just the crossover screen plugged in, using both cables and both ports.

The green light on the power brick is solid.

The red power light on the screen never changes. So maybe the screen is stuck in standby or something as I thought that if it was a backlight issue the light would be a green or blue as if the screen was fully on? (unless the red light means its properly on?)

Im not to sure what to do now.

Any one else had this issue?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binarysmacker*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone.
> A few weeks ago I took the plunge and ordered a crossover 27Q from eBay from "lightnspace". For £212.
> After being delayed due to "tythoons" in SK and also their thanksgiving.....and also UK customs I reieved the monitor today.
> First really annoying thing. I ordered the 27Q but they sent me the 27QD. the one with the built in speakers. Its doesnt look as good as the 27Q. (anyone had this happen to them?)
> Also not really a big issue but I was expecting it to be one flat piece of glass like the apple screens. Not a plastic frame around it. But oh well. (does any of these Korean scressn existed as one flat piece like the apple displays?)
> Anyway.
> So today I plugged it in but it seems dead.
> The red light comes on but thats it.
> The PC does detect it though and sets the right res for it and thinks its there. But just no image.
> Ive tried 2 different DVI-D cables. Tried both ports on my card (ATI 6850), tried using an active DP to DVI adapter. Tried booting with just the crossover screen plugged in, using both cables and both ports.
> The green light on the power brick is solid.
> The red power light on the screen never changes. So maybe the screen is stuck in standby or something as I thought that if it was a backlight issue the light would be a green or blue as if the screen was fully on? (unless the red light means its properly on?)
> Im not to sure what to do now.
> Any one else had this issue?


I've read sometime in the past month on here of someone getting the wrong model as well. The one flat piece of tempered glass isn't available on the korean models, that I know of, you can get the tempered glass versions but they will still have a bezel lip around the screen itself, it'll give feeling of the ACD (Someone correct me on that if I'm wrong). Blue means properly on when getting a signal also. Sounds like either software issue on CCC or something wrong with the main PCB in the monitor. Others here will elaborate more than I can with the issue as I've seen a post like this somewhere in the past, try 20+ pages back and you can read up on what others have done.


----------



## snafflehog

binarysmacker,

I also ordered a pair of 27q's from "lightnspace", I had read that he had a habbit of sending out the wrong monitors so I made sure I emailed him before hand letting him know that I expected the 27q and made sure that he promised they would be the correct model.

I am also in the UK but mine are still stuck in customs. I am awaiting a letter to tell me how much they're charging me, what did you pay on yours?

As soon as I have them I will let you know what I have received and if they're in good nick!

Cheers,


----------



## binarysmacker

Hey,

It was £34 I had to pay. It was stuck in customs just over a week. EMS changed from "invalid invoice" to "missing invoice" but apparently just ignore the EMS side of things once its in the UK. It updated twice while it was in the UK but when I called customs they told me my parcel hadn't even been looked at yet!

Anyway, the second it moved out of custom to parcel force I just rang them up to pay the charge. I didnt bother waiting for the letter.

The screen came today, along with the charges letter! ha.

Its just so weird how windows detects the monitor, detects its res but the screen says black with the red light as if its not plugged in.

I know this as im running a second screen at the same time. Incase that was the issue I tried booting several times just with the crossover. No dice!

I found a thread a few pages back, someone having the same issue but it was because they had it in the wrong DVI port. Ive tried both :/


----------



## anmolkapoor

Guys, any reason to look forward to the upcoming 2730MDP?

The only upgrade seems to be the 125hz refresh rate. That's all that I could make out anyway.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> Guys, any reason to look forward to the upcoming 2730MDP?
> The only upgrade seems to be the 125hz refresh rate. That's all that I could make out anyway.


The max res on that page is still listed as 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz; are you sure it'll be able to do 125?


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binarysmacker*
> 
> Hey,
> It was £34 I had to pay. It was stuck in customs just over a week. EMS changed from "invalid invoice" to "missing invoice" but apparently just ignore the EMS side of things once its in the UK. It updated twice while it was in the UK but when I called customs they told me my parcel hadn't even been looked at yet!
> Anyway, the second it moved out of custom to parcel force I just rang them up to pay the charge. I didnt bother waiting for the letter.
> The screen came today, along with the charges letter! ha.
> Its just so weird how windows detects the monitor, detects its res but the screen says black with the red light as if its not plugged in.
> I know this as im running a second screen at the same time. Incase that was the issue I tried booting several times just with the crossover. No dice!
> I found a thread a few pages back, someone having the same issue but it was because they had it in the wrong DVI port. Ive tried both :/


I remember reading that a user on a another forum had the same symptoms with his yamakasi catleap. All he got was a red light when he put it on. Turns out it was a loose cable inside the monitor. He had taken apart the monitor to change the wobbly stand (you have to take apart the whole monitor to change the stand to a yamakasi catleap. This is not the case with crossover 27Q. I have no idea about the blade model though) and during the process one of the cables came loose.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> The max res on that page is still listed as 2560 × 1440 @ 60Hz; are you sure it'll be able to do 125?


In one of the graphic slides on the same page, it reads 125 Hz.. I don't know what they are trying to tell us with that though.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> In one of the graphic slides on the same page, it reads 125 Hz.. I don't know what they are trying to tell us with that though.


If you're referring to the specs, where it says max vertical frequency... back in the CRT days that would typically only apply to a really low resolution. Not sure with LCD though... it does seem too high for a screen that can only do 60hz.


----------



## binarysmacker

Hmmm

Lets hope its that simple.

So im trying to take apart the screen, found all the screws on the back. For some reason theres no screws at the top, just the bottom.

It almost comes off but at the corners, even though the screws are out its still holding together. If I try any harder im scared I might snap the bezel.

Are there any teardown videos or images?


----------



## Karail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binarysmacker*
> 
> Hmmm
> Lets hope its that simple.
> So im trying to take apart the screen, found all the screws on the back. For some reason theres no screws at the top, just the bottom.
> It almost comes off but at the corners, even though the screws are out its still holding together. If I try any harder im scared I might snap the bezel.
> Are there any teardown videos or images?


Take your time and be careful. I'm afraid not many if anyone at all in here has taken apart the blade model. I found the post i was referring to (its not english speaking forum) and there was another user who had the same problem. At first it seemed all the cables were seated properly but he took them off and reseated them. The monitor worked fine after that. If you're comfortable with taking apart the monitor i guess it's worth a shot.


----------



## binarysmacker

RIGHT EVERYONE.

ITS WORKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I took Karails advice and decided to go for it, I slide my thumb along the bezel until it was painfull and then it just popped off (the bezel that is







).

I just took everything apart and then put it all back together again.

As its the 27QD model. I took photos for everyone. Sorry for the quality, its pretty dark in here and im using my phone. Also its not the most techically and some people might not like some methods im using haha.

Heres the teardown photos.

https://plus.google.com/photos/100436332559084708570/albums/5797837097129401857

So after all that I plugged in in andd.......IT DIDNT WORK. I tried my other cable, the one that came with the screen. AND BINGO IT TURNED ON!!!!

So it looks like the "premium" cable I purchased (which I needed because this cable that came with it is a very tight fit, needs to be a bit longer) doesnt work!!

Anyway

ITS ALL UP AND RUNNING. So far from what I can see no stuck or dead pixels!







Back light bleed etc I havn't tested but it looks very uniform to me

I have yet to calibrate it. Thats next.

The only problem is......my desk and room feels really bare now. Ive got from 3 screens to 1. Hmmmmmm Does any 15 - 17" ips screens exist? For a small side monitor?


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binarysmacker*
> 
> RIGHT EVERYONE.
> ITS WORKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> I took Karails advice and decided to go for it, I slide my thumb along the bezel until it was painfull and then it just popped off (the bezel that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I just took everything apart and then put it all back together again.
> As its the 27QD model. I took photos for everyone. Sorry for the quality, its pretty dark in here and im using my phone. Also its not the most techically and some people might not like some methods im using haha.
> Heres the teardown photos.
> https://plus.google.com/photos/100436332559084708570/albums/5797837097129401857
> So after all that I plugged in in andd.......IT DIDNT WORK. I tried my other cable, the one that came with the screen. AND BINGO IT TURNED ON!!!!
> So it looks like the "premium" cable I purchased (which I needed because this cable that came with it is a very tight fit, needs to be a bit longer) doesnt work!!
> Anyway
> ITS ALL UP AND RUNNING. So far from what I can see no stuck or dead pixels!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back light bleed etc I havn't tested but it looks very uniform to me
> I have yet to calibrate it. Thats next.
> The only problem is......my desk and room feels really bare now. Ive got from 3 screens to 1. Hmmmmmm Does any 15 - 17" ips screens exist? For a small side monitor?


You could get a 21" monitor and put it in portrait; it would take up much less room.


----------



## binarysmacker

Hmmm no thats going to be too big. I might get a 10" android chinese ips tablet. Its just to go on my wall next to it for PDFs and notifications and stuff.

Right one slight problem now.

Depending on whats on the screen, it seems like its the bright images that do this but it causes the screen to hum. If its all white it hums "loudly" but if its black its less.

If that anything that can be solved?


----------



## araman

Welp, I'm starting to think my flickering problem isn't PCB related, but backlight related as I did a looked a little closer and it looks like the flickering is occurring on the left side of the monitor more than the right - could that still be a PCB thing? I'm thinking not, which really worries me.

I tried to take a video but it just doesn't capture things as well as I would like it to. You can kinda see the flickering in the video, so if this helps anyone think about what my problem might be here, I would appreciate any insight you can offer....


----------



## tehpsyc

It was hard to see in that video but it definitely did look isolated to the left side. While its possible the PCB could be at fault I think a backlight bulb going bad is more likely to blame. I would contact your seller and get the ball rolling cause if they do try to help you it's gonna be a long process. I imagine they'll try to send you a new PCB to try before they take it back, if they do at all. However if your seller wont help I can give you the contact info of the person from Crossover I spoke to. He was very helpful and might be able to take care of you if your seller won't.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> It was hard to see in that video but it definitely did look isolated to the left side. While its possible the PCB could be at fault I think a backlight bulb going bad is more likely to blame. I would contact your seller and get the ball rolling cause if they do try to help you it's gonna be a long process. I imagine they'll try to send you a new PCB to try before they take it back, if they do at all. However if your seller wont help I can give you the contact info of the person from Crossover I spoke to. He was very helpful and might be able to take care of you if your seller won't.


That's what I feared as well









I sent a message to my seller. Really hoping he can take care of me, but I have big doubts because the guy no longer sells the item and might not have my interests in mind here anymore, especially since it's been over 6 months since I made the purchase.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binarysmacker*
> 
> I took Karails advice and decided to go for it, I slide my thumb along the bezel until it was painfull and then it just popped off (the bezel that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> I just took everything apart and then put it all back together again.
> As its the 27QD model.
> Heres the teardown photos.
> https://plus.google.com/photos/100436332559084708570/albums/5797837097129401857


How was it? I have a LED-P that i want to debezel - do you think itll look ok without the cover? Does the QD model have the white metal backing? I went from 3x24" in Eyefinity to the 1 27" - and honestly i like it a lot better...3 TN monitors is just too much and they look ugly unless you curve them towards you - which makes fish eye effect worse

I have a 2nd 120hz 27" coming in and i want to debezel them both, kinda worried about the CrossOver though

Also - what is that padding you have underneath your kb and mouse? That looks awesome







looks like a mech kb too


----------



## Remix65

my message to greensum:
_i'm interested in getting 4 of these monitors. but i have a special request. i don't want the stands on them i already have aftermarket stands. and also would like them shipped in 2 boxes. i also would like the monitors to be checked so that they don't ship with flaws.I dont want to deal with dead pixels or any color issues because i don't want to send them back. is that possible and since i won't be getting the stands how much would they cost me total to Michigan, USA?_

reply from greensum
_Hello, thank you for your interest. We are selling products as they are sealed in a box. We cannot put them together in one box because of the increased risk of damaging the products. Sorry for the inconvenience.Thank you_


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> my message to greensum:
> _i'm interested in getting 4 of these monitors. but i have a special request. i don't want the stands on them i already have aftermarket stands. and also would like them shipped in 2 boxes. i also would like the monitors to be checked so that they don't ship with flaws.I dont want to deal with dead pixels or any color issues because i don't want to send them back. is that possible and since i won't be getting the stands how much would they cost me total to Michigan, USA?_
> reply from greensum
> _Hello, thank you for your interest. We are selling products as they are sealed in a box. We cannot put them together in one box because of the increased risk of damaging the products. Sorry for the inconvenience.Thank you_


Sounds relatively fair in my opinion, doesn't mention if he'll check em though >.>


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Sounds relatively fair in my opinion, doesn't mention if he'll check em though >.>


if he agreed to that my next email was gonna tell him to write me a paypal invoice instead of going through ebay for a further discount. i'm poor.









i've sold brand new monitors on ebay. and it cost $20 to ship them. that's $40 for 2 monitors. if the guy asked me to ship them in one box to save him money i would have. and i sold them to him via paypal invoice.

they were zr24w's. i got them cheap but they weren't LED so i sold them. 4+ regular monitors use unnecessary power.


----------



## b0gus85

I doubt he will check them , otherwise he wouldn't be selling perfect pixel model.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> if he agreed to that my next email was gonna tell him to write me a paypal invoice instead of going through ebay for a further discount. i'm poor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i've sold brand new monitors on ebay. and it cost $20 to ship them. that's $40 for 2 monitors. if the guy asked me to ship them in one box to save him money i would have. and i sold them to him via paypal invoice.
> they were zr24w's. i got them cheap but they weren't LED so i sold them. 4+ regular monitors use unnecessary power.


Don't you buy them through paypal on ebay anyways though? Or do they add in the difference for what ebay charges them? Also yah I can see the consumption being relatively high, I was surprised when I saw the crossovers hit 45w-65w on minimum brightness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0gus85*
> 
> I doubt he will check them , otherwise he wouldn't be selling perfect pixel model.


True enough but Accessorieswhole supposedly does even on non pixel perfect, they just look for 3(?) or less dead pixels


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Don't you buy them through paypal on ebay anyways though? Or do they add in the difference for what ebay charges them? Also yah I can see the consumption being relatively high, I was surprised when I saw the crossovers hit 45w-65w on minimum brightness.


ebay takes a final value fee of 9%. ($320) if just sold through paypal that's an extra $28 x4 that's $115.2 add paypal fee on top of that. and shipping 4 boxes is expensive... shipping monitors is bulky and expensive.

if a buyer with great feedback wants to do paypal invoice i jump on it. it saves us both money. and headache of dealing with ebay feedback. i made a profit of $120 total on the monitors i bought. and i bought them from ebay.

and if he was to cut me a deal and keep the stands that'd have been even better. he could just sell the stands on ebay. someone would want them. i use ergotrons on all my monitors...


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> ebay takes a final value fee of 9%. ($320) if just sold through paypal that's an extra $28 x4 that's $115.2 add paypal fee on top of that. and shipping 4 boxes is expensive... shipping monitors is bulky and expensive.
> if a buyer with great feedback wants to do paypal invoice i jump on it. it saves us both money. and headache of dealing with ebay feedback. i made a profit of $120 total on the monitors i bought. and i bought them from ebay.
> and if he was to cut me a deal and keep the stands that'd have been even better. he could just sell the stands on ebay. someone would want them. i use ergotrons on all my monitors...


Good man for using ergotron lol and I see your point, perhaps try messaging another seller and see if they'd do it, I'm sure one of them would be up to the task.


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Good man for using ergotron lol and I see your point, perhaps try messaging another seller and see if they'd do it, I'm sure one of them would be up to the task.


4 monitors could save me at least $160 total and he'd still make more than what he's selling through ebay... and make even more by selling the stands, accessories and boxes...


----------



## snafflehog

So, I'm happy to say that I picked up my 2 27Q's yesterday from ParcelForce and paid ~£56 customs charges which I thought was reasonable. They were from the seller lightnspace who has been known for sending out CrossOver 27QD's (CrossOver Blade) but I received my ordered 27Q's. I emailed him beforehand specifically stating that I required the 27Q's and not the Blades so it may be down to this, or as with most things in the Korean saga, fluke









I have tested 1 monitor so far with no ill effects - I can't see any stuck pixels but their may be a bit of the yellow tint towards the bottom of the panel. It's not bothering me yet, and it is so faint I still can't tell if I'm imagining it or not! Will hopefully get some time tonight to try the other monitor and I'll let you know how it goes!

PCB wise, I have yet to check, will have a look when I pop them on monitor arms.


----------



## binarysmacker

Hey,

Nice one for getting the proper monitors.

One thing which mine is it hums and depending whats on the screen makes it hum more loudly or quiety. Also seems like the pitch goes up.

If I put a full white screen on its the loudest. Its quote annoying actually, changing to black the buzz goes off its very noticeable.

Can you see if you get the same with your monitors? And is there any fix?


----------



## Methos07

Has anyone tested these monitors with Dell laptops? I have my work laptop in a docking station, but the dock has two dvi ports shown here:



I'm pretty sure they're dual link capable. Would these displays with no scalers work?


----------



## tehpsyc

So my green PCB finally arrived from red-cap, about a month after my initial failure of the first PCB. The second blue PCB still seems to be ok, though I was getting rare flickering, I think the heatsink helped mitigate a lot of the potential issues. Here are some side-by-side comparisons of the green and blue PCB, as well as the blue PCB with the heatsink installed. So far the monitor appears to be running great, but until I can get an adapter is gonna be unused while my perfect pixel shimian stays the main.

Here are some pictures:



http://imgur.com/REuDu


Unrelated note, if anyone has any insight, do you think it would be difficult to swap panels between the Shimian and the Crossover? The Shimian has no dead pixels while my crossover has one, but I like the housing/case/stand of the crossover much better. Now that the internals of the crossover appear to be repaired I have the option of doing that, but I dunno if it would be worth it. I'd rather have the crossover be the main monitor and maybe use the Shimian as a vertical 2nd monitor, but I'd want my main monitor to be the perfect pixel one. I've had the crossover open so many times I don't think would be much of an issue, but the Shimian I haven't cracked open and I understand its a little more difficult (held together by adhesive)


----------



## snafflehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *binarysmacker*
> 
> One thing which mine is it hums and depending whats on the screen makes it hum more loudly or quiety. Also seems like the pitch goes up.
> If I put a full white screen on its the loudest. Its quote annoying actually, changing to black the buzz goes off its very noticeable.
> Can you see if you get the same with your monitors? And is there any fix?


I can't say I have that issue, or not yet anyway! I have heard reports of multiple monitors doing this though - not just the Korean IPS's.


----------



## jorojr

Nearly five months of flawless usage with my 27Q. Then bam, no picture. Opened up the unit and yep. You guessed it. Mosfet issue. I send an email to AccessoriesWhole, hope to hear back from them soon.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jorojr*
> 
> Nearly five months of flawless usage with my 27Q. Then bam, no picture. Opened up the unit and yep. You guessed it. Mosfet issue. I send an email to AccessoriesWhole, hope to hear back from them soon.


Blue or Green?


----------



## bsg75

Here's my sob story and why I'd steer people away from the Crossover 27Q and toward a Shimian or Catleap.

I ordered an LED-P recently from ta_planet (Kinam). It arrived super fast and I could see no particular flaws with the screen. No I did not order pixel perfect. No I did not notice any pixel defects. My only gripe with the picture was that you couldn't turn the brightness down far enough. The overall build, on the other hand, I did not care for in real life. The metal cage with overly bright blue LED jammed in did not appeal to me. It's unusual and solid-feeling, but metal construction makes the monitor unnecessarily heavy and unwieldy vs. plastic.

Then I did a bad thing. I decided to use the Crossover on a monitor arm. The design of the monitor arm has you screw a plate into the monitor VESA holes. Then you slide that plate onto the mount. So to traverse the plate, I used the longer (actually normal-length) screws that came with the monitor arm. Bad move. Before I realized it, one of the screws had impacted the back-most PCB (with the power and DVI) and broken one or two of the densely-packed traces. To save space, they made the PCB multi-layer: the corresponding part on the Catleap is twice as long. I am absolutely lost about trying to repair the trace. I emailed ta_planet a couple times to try and purchase a replacement circuit board. At first the seller said they'd try and get one from the manufacturer, but then stopped responding. I don't blame him; it's neither his fault nor the manufacturer's. But I'm left with a $350 brick for want of that DigitalWave PCB. And I do fault the design somewhat for sticking a circuit board right in the path of their smaller-than-standard mounting screws. I don't think you would have that catastrophic result with many other brands.

So if you really want the Crossover despite the caveats, the lesson is to only use the extra-short mounting screws that come with it!


----------



## Remix65

yikes...

i could see myself doing this that to all 4 monitors


----------



## snafflehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bsg75*
> 
> So if you really want the Crossover despite the caveats, the lesson is to only use the extra-short mounting screws that come with it!


This has happened to quite a few people on here, however I don't think anyone has been unlucky enough to knacker the circuit board. They just got it making a bit of a 'crackling' noise.

I hope you can get it sorted, try emailing crossover directly.


----------



## Azefore

^ I'm one of them, it fizzled out the power using Ergotron's supplied screws for the MX wall mounts. Luckily I rushed to get them off and yank the power, went to local hardware store and bought the shortest metric screws I could find, work fine now thankfully, still worried in the back of my mind though.


----------



## doe3879

My CrossOver 27Q LED-P not straight when using Portrait mode.
it needs a bit more rotation to the left, wonder if adjust the screws in the back of the stand to give it a little more swivel.

anyone else have this problem?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doe3879*
> 
> My CrossOver 27Q LED-P not straight when using Portrait mode.
> it needs a bit more rotation to the left, wonder if adjust the screws in the back of the stand to give it a little more swivel.
> anyone else have this problem?


nope all 3 of mine go horizontal just fine.


----------



## KaRLiToS

One of my Crossover didnt go completely horizontal. I had to force it to place it back because the stand was a little smashed (barely noticeable but I see everything) but after forcing it back into place, its fine now. I can't even tell which one of the three had the smashed stand now. It's not the best method but it was the only way. Sending it back to Korea was not an option.


----------



## Clovertail100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methos07*
> 
> Has anyone tested these monitors with Dell laptops? I have my work laptop in a docking station, but the dock has two dvi ports shown here:
> 
> I'm pretty sure they're dual link capable. Would these displays with no scalers work?


I highly doubt it, but you never know.


----------



## doe3879

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiKKeDWuN*
> 
> Sorry if this has been answered already. But has someone successfully been able to convert DVI to HDMI on the Crossover 27q. So what I'm trying to do is run my xbox 360 on the Crossover that only has DVI. Is there a converter I need or just a DVI to HDMI cable? And then I would like to know if there is a way to split HDMI's audio and video so I can listen to the sound on external speakers or headphones. I think I saw this answered before but I've searched and can't find the answer. Thanks in advance.


I got the CrossOver 27Q LED-P with single DVI port as well, due to price and input lag concern.
I just tested it with my PS3 today with regular DVI to HDMI cable and it works just fine. It can only output 720p tho, black screen on 1080p. The monitor itself can only output 1440 or 720.
For audio I use the composite (white/yellow/red), convert it to 3.5mm audio jack and plug into my PC speaker and it works.

Right now I'm trying to figure out what the cheapest and easiest way to switch between PS3 and PC monitor.
Option might be - 1 - get a DVI split. Not sure if it'll work tho

2- Get a few more extension cable for the PS3 and PC so that I don't have to fuss with unplugging from the back of monitor and PC


----------



## skyn3t

my Crossover still stunning since day one no sign on any defect. I'm luck still with my 27Q LED


----------



## coolxal

Is it my understanding that the Crossover in general has a better construction/quality on the bezel/housing compared to the Yamakasi Catleaps and Achieva Shimeans? I've read that many people had difficulties using VESA mounts on the Catleaps because of the difficult to remove stand and the easily cracked plastic.

I think I may get a Crossover instead if it indeed does have better quality plastic for the bezel/housing.


----------



## spacemexican

Hello all, I am about to buy one of these . 27q led-p . I asked red cap if these had green or blue PCB
He said the green PCB is no longer available.
Is red cap a good seller to deal with or dream seller . Or should I pay more to stick with bcc ? Thanks


----------



## donnydorko

so according to redcap spacemexican they only have the faulty pcb's? ( not sure what the difference is could you explain ).

Thanks,


----------



## spacemexican

not sure i asked a question last night when i got my reply but ill have to wait a few more hours before i get a reply.

here is his reply from ebay

FYI, Green PCB is not provided anymore,sorrythank youSincerely yours
Red-Cap

also what else i find kinda weird is i sent a message to BCC Dream seller and Red Cap

they were all answerd within about 1min of eachother's..standard 10hr delay.. . Do these guys all work out of the same place?
and just sell stock and have them drop shipped?


----------



## Kuad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Is it my understanding that the Crossover in general has a better construction/quality on the bezel/housing compared to the Yamakasi Catleaps and Achieva Shimeans? I've read that many people had difficulties using VESA mounts on the Catleaps because of the difficult to remove stand and the easily cracked plastic.
> I think I may get a Crossover instead if it indeed does have better quality plastic for the bezel/housing.


It does indeed have better quality construction - however it is not plastic, but metal. If you plan on using VESA mounts, make sure it can take the load(they are more than 9 kilos per panel), and also make sure you use screws that are as short as possible, as the pcb's are uncomfortably close and directly under the mounting holes on the Crossover.


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> It does indeed have better quality construction - however it is not plastic, but metal. If you plan on using VESA mounts, make sure it can take the load(they are more than 9 kilos per panel), and also make sure you use screws that are as short as possible, as the pcb's are uncomfortably close and directly under the mounting holes on the Crossover.


Oh so it's metal. Can you describe the type of metal used? Is it worth the $60 - $90 premium for a Crossover compared to a Catleap or Shimian, just for the enclosure?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Oh so it's metal. Can you describe the type of metal used? Is it worth the $60 - $90 premium for a Crossover compared to a Catleap or Shimian, just for the enclosure?


Its a thin aluminum(?) and depends on whether you can live without an OSD menu on the display itself. Both the Catleap and Shimian have OSDs, and some other features depending on the model, like speakers and a few extra connection types. However I'd still go with the Crossover @ 60-90$, it's got the feeling of a solid product, I personally wouldn't want any plastic enclosure for my displays after owning both the 27Q and Apple Cinema display


----------



## Remix65

these korean monitors weigh at most 24lbs....
i have a zr30w which weighs 28.6 lb (13 kg) and the ergotrons lx series (desk and wall mounts) holds it up fine. the ergotrons are only designed for 24" monitors but they handles at the 28lbs fine when tightened.

the screws looks like this. not sharp nor long..


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> these korean monitors weigh at most 24lbs....
> i have a zr30w which weighs 28.6 lb (13 kg) and the ergotrons lx series (desk and wall mounts) holds it up fine. the ergotrons are only designed for 24" monitors but they handles at the 28lbs fine when tightened.
> the screws looks like this. not sharp nor long..


Crossover 27q with standard non-pivot plastic stand weigh 6.5kg ~ 14.3lbs. Your pretty safe with a lot of stands and the other screws that come with ergotrons that have philipshead pattern are too long, thought the plastic thumbs were just as long?


----------



## jerrolds

Someone debezel the CrossOver LED-P i wanna see how hard/easy it would be and how nice it would look


----------



## Gallien

What (if any) difference is there between the 27Q and the 27QD (pivot models)

27Q

27QD


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> What (if any) difference is there between the 27Q and the 27QD (pivot models)
> 27Q
> 27QD


The QD has a different casing.


----------



## Koehler

I'm actually interested. What is the difference between CrossOver and the corresponding Yamakasi monitors?

They're a different company but use the same LG A- panels.

Has anyone got both and is there a disparity between their quality?


----------



## Foresight

Just received my 27Q from BBC
no dead pixels, minimal bleed but there it does make a high pitched noise O.O
is that normal?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foresight*
> 
> Just received my 27Q from BBC
> no dead pixels, minimal bleed but there it does make a high pitched noise O.O
> is that normal?


Didn't have one myself out of my two but others said the longer you let it stay on initially it'll go away with time. Can't confirm though


----------



## Foresight

Its gone








perfect pixel
no flickering
no tinting
etc..


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I'm actually interested. What is the difference between CrossOver and the corresponding Yamakasi monitors?
> They're a different company but use the same LG A- panels.
> Has anyone got both and is there a disparity between their quality?


As far as I know, it's just the housing that's different. The Yamakasi use really cheap plastic that cracks easily but the Crossover uses some sort of metal (aluminum probably).

Does anyone know how long the screws should be for mounting without damaging the PCB?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Does anyone know how long the screws should be for mounting without damaging the PCB?


Depends on what your using to mount with


----------



## Azefore

K question, has anyone posted the debzelment of one of these guys? I was going to wait a while but the bezels are killing desktop/background a bit for me, on games it's fine but if I can help it I will


----------



## eskamobob1

Hey guys,

What would be some reliable people to buy a crossover from? I would prefer if they had a "perfect pixel" option as well (I'm not sure if this is common amung good retailers, but I have seen it a couple times)... Thanks in advance


----------



## coolxal

I bought one from BCC for 380 to be shipped to Canada. He's asking how much to put on the invoice.


----------



## Azefore

K guys did the debezeling before class here's what it is:



Not going to work unless I have three which would still look ugly as sin. The bottom of the panel when looked at horizontally has a thicker edge with a different material type taped on top. Sides and top are fine but unless the thicker bottom won't bother you I would NOT recommend debezeling them. Had to bend a bit of the metal with my hands (black front bezel) to actually get the panel out too.


----------



## skyn3t

its better if you put the right price just in case of any issue.


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> K guys did the debezeling before class here's what it is:
> 
> Not going to work unless I have three which would still look ugly as sin. The bottom of the panel when looked at horizontally has a thicker edge with a different material type taped on top. Sides and top are fine but unless the thicker bottom won't bother you I would NOT recommend debezeling them. Had to bend a bit of the metal with my hands (black front bezel) to actually get the panel out too.


Did you take any more pics by any chance? How hard was it to debezel - i think it looks nice from the pic...might need to get some glossy duct tape or something to clean it up a bit - where you able to get it to work without the casing?

Thanks for this


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> I bought one from BCC for 380 to be shipped to Canada. He's asking how much to put on the invoice.


Shrug id say $150-$200


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Did you take any more pics by any chance? How hard was it to debezel - i think it looks nice from the pic...might need to get some glossy duct tape or something to clean it up a bit - where you able to get it to work without the casing?
> Thanks for this


Nah no more pics, just since it wouldn't work for me. However debezeling was rather easy, take out every screw on back and 2 screws on bottom vents. The take out one side traingular vent, unscrew secondary PCB on the other vent piece, unlatch all cables (2 connections total) and then unscrew and remove the button daughterboard. Then your left with panel and stubborn metal black bezel front. Shove 8 of your fingers and work one side of the bezel and bend ever so slightly and just work it out.

However no I didn't fire it up without it's bezel. I can't see it not working though, I just didn't want to risk any static discharge or shorting out. May do another disaseembly tomorrow so people have a guide on the front page to look at if needed.

That being said 3 in landscape would work rather well but since I do portrait it's a moot point


----------



## jerrolds

Good stuff - im looking to add a 2nd 27" monitor and probably debezel both if its not to hard/risky.

What would you do with the extra 2 boards - screw those 2 white panel things back? It looks like you have both a blue and green board in that pic


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Good stuff - im looking to add a 2nd 27" monitor and probably debezel both if its not to hard/risky.
> What would you do with the extra 2 boards - screw those 2 white panel things back? It looks like you have both a blue and green board in that pic


There's 3 boards if you count the button PCB, and I'd (if I knew I'd never put the bezel back on) cut the top and bottom white venting on the back enclosure and size it down but still allow it to screw into the back of the panel so I could mount it with vesa 100 or stock stand in addition to still having the spaces for PCBs to go in. I'm sure you could get a custom back panel laser cut in a shop but would cost money (not too much I assume)

That's my initial thoughts on it but will get back here tomorrow.


----------



## necto

Hello, everyone!
reposting here, because, it seems to be more alive.

I recently purchased the monitor, and it worked great. Just great.
But today, it seems, that i didn't do anything weird, but the monitor turned off, and begin blinking by it's led indicator with blue and red colors. Approximatly one time in three seconds. And it's power brick blinking by it's green led synchronously.

Unfortunately, i don't remember, was that green light blinking, or just lighthing when everything worked.

Could you say, is it blinking in normal state?

And what could it be the problem, with power brick, with backlight, with cables?

I live in Europe, so I have 220V power. Also, earlier, when I had problems with resolution during adjusting my video card, it's backlight lighted up. Now it's backlight is always off.

I investigated the following behaviour: when computer is off ( no signal), the led is flashing purple. When the computer is on, the indicator flashing alternatevly red, blue (rarely).

Also, I pressed the button (on/off), and it doesn't change anything. Doesn't matter how long i hold it, it continue flashing.


----------



## treefiddy

Fedex woes...

A word of warning to anyone sending back a monitor via Fedex...

In the UK, Fedex bill for customs charges retrospectively - this means that you get the monitor and a week later an invoice appears for 20% VAT + £10.50 clearance. The fee is already high compared to DHL (£1.25), but add to this the incompetence of the service and this thing really grates.

Fedex's fee is non-refundable and must be paid for even in the event of a return. Fedex do have a "temporary stay" service, but this needs to be booked in advance and costs £50 + VAT or whatever big number the girl at the end of the telephone could think of. The VAT is reclaimable, however, by applying direct to HMRC with the original customs clearance document and a proof of sending certificate for the return carriage. As Fedex staff apparently have no means of communicating with each other, it is a painstaking task to ring up at each stage of the return process to request documentation.

If it can go wrong, it will go wrong.

I booked the return collection giving the original sender's account reference number and thought all well and good.

On the day of the collection, the driver refused to accept the package, asked for payment for the delivery and wanted more paperwork!
I called their office and was e-mailed a "Commercial Invoice" to be printed out 3 times and handed to the driver.
Turns out they needed 6 copies.

On the day of the 2nd collection attempt, I phoned again and was told Fedex needed an "Airway Bill" too.
Grrr! No matter, the driver would just have to bring the additional form with him.

Finally the package was on its way, BUT the service had been changed from "International Economy" to the more expensive "International Priority"! More commission for someone, I suspect.

The monitor is in South Korea. I've wasted hours on the phone to Fedex on their premium rate call line and I'm waiting to see if the seller will refund me despite having the monitor sent back on a premium rate service they hadn't agreed to. The e-mail address given to me over the phone to get a proof of posting certificate from Fedex has bounced and I'm left trying to get in contact via their Webmail form.

About £350 down at the moment and no monitor.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> Fedex woes...
> A word of warning to anyone sending back a monitor via Fedex...


Wow dude, I'm actually in the same situation as you, but yours sounds just a tad worse.

For starters, I secretly did some illegal things and avoided paying customs in Canada originally, DHL still charged me their $20 in paperwork fees though =\

Secondly, I also had to ship back to SK, my biggest issue was actually finding a box, but I also did NOT get an AWB # when I called DHL to book the collection attempt. The driver picked it up anyway saying 'sometimes they take care of it', but they didn't, so I had to call multiple times to get a new AWB#. Took about a week. Then they finally sent it off express (my seller wanted express though). I fortunately didn't have any issue with payment/collections.

Then it was fairly slow with communication by my seller, but he finally sent out my new monitor today, he gave me the new AWB# but DHL didn't pick it up yet cause it's not in their tracking system yet. Unlike you, I actually want a new monitor, not a refund.

Anyway the only other obstacle I think I will need to conquer will be trying to avoid double-customs on the way back, since it already cleared the first time around.

I will update once it gets here HOPEFULLY mid-next week.

But yeah, I loved the monitor while I had it, I just want a properly working one! Being $360 short and no monitor that I know I want and love, that's the hardest part.


----------



## necto

Does anybody have a datasheet for the LCD panel, used in CrossOver 27Q monitors, LM270WQ1-SDE3?


----------



## anmolkapoor

A question : when I try to power the 2720MDP on, the green LED on the brick starts blinking. Any reason why? Could it be a DOA?


----------



## necto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> A question : when I try to power the 2720MDP on, the green LED on the brick starts blinking. Any reason why? Could it be a DOA?


Could you tell the friquency of the blinking?


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necto*
> 
> Could you tell the friquency of the blinking?


A blink in every 2 seconds.


----------



## necto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> A blink in every 2 seconds.


If monitor led indicator blinks also, it very likely to my problem.

I've investigated, and found, that the problem not with power brick, but with the backlight curcuit. Probably the power transistor me15n10-G. I'll try to replace it next week, and will see what happens.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necto*
> 
> If monitor led indicator blinks also, it very likely to my problem.
> I've investigated, and found, that the problem not with power brick, but with the backlight curcuit. Probably the power transistor me15n10-G. I'll try to replace it next week, and will see what happens.


The monitor LED does not blink at all. The first time I powered it on, the blue LED on the monitor did blink for a second but that's about it. I believe that I might have plugged the cord in the wrong way/side. I should have read the instructions where it is clearly mentioned that you have to plug the cord with the flat side facing the monitor but I had never encountered such plugs before. Got the monitor only a few hours ago and now I have no idea as to what might be wrong with it.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Nevermind. I managed to get it to work. No dead pixels. No bleed. It's a beauty!


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> Nevermind. I managed to get it to work. No dead pixels. No bleed. It's a beauty!


So what was your fix? Solution might help others


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> So what was your fix? Solution might help others


Yes it is good netiquette to post your solution to a problem you were asking about - if you found one yourself. Please tell us what you were missing.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> Yes it is good netiquette to post your solution to a problem you were asking about - if you found one yourself. Please tell us what you were missing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> So what was your fix? Solution might help others


I was actually trying to recollect the exact thing that I did to make it work as I did not want to post a half assed solution to the problem that I had or others might be having. It turns out that the cable that connects the actual display with the rest of the circuitry wasn't connected properly. I'm talking about the main ribbon cable right in the center. So I just reconnected it and taped it back on properly and it worked.

Mine is the 2720MDP with a missing HDMI port. Bought it from AW for $550. I don't really care about the missing HDMI all that much as everything else is pretty much perfect. Also, after having used an iMac Thunderbolt for about a year, I can say that the Crossover is very much comparable, if not better.

Let us hope it lasts.


----------



## dimwit13

well guys, looky what i bought-

27" New Crossover 27Q LED-P Pivot 2560x1440 WQHD Quad HD Monitor




i have been researching 2560 x 1440 monitors and went with the Crossover.
i picked the crossover due to the build quality, since i read this is the best one built-the stand matters most.
i have 2 cats that chase each other all over the house and i dont want dead cats-due to me killing them for knocking over my new monitor-lol
i cant wait to compair it to my 1920 x 1200 Hanns-g.
i will join the club once it arrives.
thanks for all the help/info on this thread.

-dimwit-


----------



## Descadent

welcome. you'll love it


----------



## Cloudz00x

AccessoriesWhole seems to not answer msgs. Anyone else having that problem. Was contacting him to see whats so special about his "A+" panels even though there probably 'A". Also to check if his batch has the Green PCB instead of blue, so it would be less of a headache.
Here is the listing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

Is it still wise to get this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300555688796


----------



## dimwit13

quick question.
i received an email from the seller-

Hello
Thanks for your order.
I am James in Computer department in our company.

For smoothing pass against custom,

1) May I mark item as gift?
2) How much price I put on invoice?

what should i tell him?
i live in the US.

thanks

-dimwit-


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> quick question.
> i received an email from the seller-
> 
> Hello
> Thanks for your order.
> I am James in Computer department in our company.
> For smoothing pass against custom,
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> what should i tell him?
> i live in the US.
> thanks
> -dimwit-


Who did you order from and what did you order?
Usually they do this to lower price and lower fee's so they make as much as possible while costing you less.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> quick question.
> i received an email from the seller-
> 
> Hello
> Thanks for your order.
> I am James in Computer department in our company.
> For smoothing pass against custom,
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> what should i tell him?
> i live in the US.
> thanks
> -dimwit-


He ordered from BCC.
He's asking you this to help you avoid paying customs duties/fees.
It really depends what your sales tax is. Whatever the %, that's how much customs will ask you to pay at the door (DHL will technically ask you though).
If you have no idea what customs is, or what an invoice is, or how much/how little trouble you can get by giving false government info, then put the price you paid.
Else, put anything less than $100, and yes, it's a gift.

Realistically, putting $125 - $150 is a safe bet no matter what. Putting less than $100 is also safe, but you might get a few delays/asks for invoices (which the seller can also "provide").

P.S: His name's not really James


----------



## kenshinjeff

Has anyone tried to use a displayport or hdmi cable with the 2720MDP?

What's the max resolution for that?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinjeff*
> 
> Has anyone tried to use a displayport or hdmi cable with the 2720MDP?
> What's the max resolution for that?


Displayport is the same as dvi so max is 2560x1440
HDMI is limited to 1080p.


----------



## kenshinjeff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Displayport is the same as dvi so max is 2560x1440
> HDMI is limited to 1080p.


Hi, thanks for the quick reply.

Why do people say hdmi is limited to 1080p? (1920×1080) Is this a monitor hardware limitation, a cable limitation, a vga card limitation or? The wiki says that hdmi 1.3 can hit 2560×1600p75 at 24 bits, or am I understanding something wrongly?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenshinjeff*
> 
> Hi, thanks for the quick reply.
> Why do people say hdmi is limited to 1080p? (1920×1080) Is this a monitor hardware limitation, a cable limitation, a vga card limitation or? The wiki says that hdmi 1.3 can hit 2560×1600p75 at 24 bits, or am I understanding something wrongly?


The new ports are considered 1.3a
If your buying a moitor that says it has 1.3a, then yea I "assume" it goes up to 2560x1440. Never tried it myself but that was specs says.
As for the limitation yea, its just how it is. the 1080p market is saturated and all other hdmi connections are just at 1080.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Hey guys, just bit the bullet and bought from AccessoriesWhole.
3x ★CROSSOVER★27Q LED-P Perfect Pixel 27" DVI LG S-IPS QHD 2560X1440 16:9 Monitor
Was good enough to lower the price after speaking to him.

I still need to know is it necessary to buy this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300555688796

Or are the power bricks that come with them good enough.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> He ordered from BCC.
> He's asking you this to help you avoid paying customs duties/fees.
> It really depends what your sales tax is. Whatever the %, that's how much customs will ask you to pay at the door (DHL will technically ask you though).
> If you have no idea what customs is, or what an invoice is, or how much/how little trouble you can get by giving false government info, then put the price you paid.
> Else, put anything less than $100, and yes, it's a gift.
> Realistically, putting $125 - $150 is a safe bet no matter what. Putting less than $100 is also safe, but you might get a few delays/asks for invoices (which the seller can also "provide").
> P.S: His name's not really James


thanks for the info.

i told him it was a gift and it was worth $125.

so i assume that i will have to pay some customs fees?
do i pay this when it is delivered?
or will i be billed?

thanks.

-dimwit-


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Hey guys, just bit the bullet and bought from AccessoriesWhole.
> 3x ★CROSSOVER★27Q LED-P Perfect Pixel 27" DVI LG S-IPS QHD 2560X1440 16:9 Monitor
> Was good enough to lower the price after speaking to him.
> I still need to know is it necessary to buy this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300555688796
> Or are the power bricks that come with them good enough.


bricks that come with it are fine.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Hey guys, just bit the bullet and bought from AccessoriesWhole.
> 3x ★CROSSOVER★27Q LED-P Perfect Pixel 27" DVI LG S-IPS QHD 2560X1440 16:9 Monitor
> Was good enough to lower the price after speaking to him.
> I still need to know is it necessary to buy this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300555688796
> Or are the power bricks that come with them good enough.


Yeah my friends confirmed that the stock bricks are 100% compatible.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Yay, my DOA monitor was finally shipped back to korea, and dream seller is going to refund my money plus the shipping cost.


----------



## BimWim

Anyone have bigclothcraft provide support with back light failures?
Bought mine in June and it failed during the first week in October.
We exchanged a few emails but its been a week with no response.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Anyone have bigclothcraft provide support with back light failures?
> Bought mine in June and it failed during the first week in October.
> We exchanged a few emails but its been a week with no response.


I don't know if he is on holiday or something as I've had no reply to my emails either.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Anyone have bigclothcraft provide support with back light failures?
> Bought mine in June and it failed during the first week in October.
> We exchanged a few emails but its been a week with no response.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> I don't know if he is on holiday or something as I've had no reply to my emails either.


well i just ordered one from them/him/her/it, so i have been in contact with someone there.
anything i can do to help?

-dimwit-


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guys i'll be buying one next week. And was wandering whats with the green pcb and blue pcb which color pcb is better


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guys i'll be buying one next week. And was wandering whats with the green pcb and blue pcb which color pcb is better


Green,smaller PCB in the back is double rated for operation levels (chart somewhere in the past pages, less than 20) than the teal (blue) PCB that was initially used. People have reported flickering and nonoperaiton of the display due to this fact and one of the MOSFETs burning out on the teal PCB. Thus when you get yours you'll be in good shape if your PCB is green rather than teal.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Green,smaller PCB in the back is double rated for operation levels (chart somewhere in the past pages, less than 20) than the teal (blue) PCB that was initially used. People have reported flickering and nonoperaiton of the display due to this fact and one of the MOSFETs burning out on the teal PCB. Thus when you get yours you'll be in good shape if your PCB is green rather than teal.


Thank you very much +rep


----------



## amazing235

Good morning to you from South Korea!

It's been a while for me to come back and catch up all threads/replies on Forum.
Good to see that Accessorieswhole still has good reputation from our buyers. Thank you !!









As some of you may recognise me as a CS team manager of Accessorieswhole,
I have a good news to share with you all.

We have been sucessfully launched our Seller ID on Amazon.co.uk, Amazon.co.de and also even opened webstore on amazon Europe.

At first, we launched our items on Amazon.com and within few days, we lost our seller's previllege due to lack of knowledge.
We waited 90 days of suspension from Amazon.com and within few hours, you may search and find us on Amazon.com as well.

But please notice,
The same policies applied for both Ebay and Amazon marketplace.
Which means, Tax/import duty/VAT is not included on product price.

As you know, we do our best to solve if there's any problem with your monitor.
So, before you leave any negative feedback or A to Z claim, contact ME please!!!!

As always, we will do our best to serve our customers need and satisfaction,
We will be more than happy to have your kind and generous cooperation with us.

For another good news will be, it is the coming up issue,
We may open a business based in U.S.A to expand our business and provide better service to our dear customers.









That reason, I've been busy looking for a professional CPA and legal firm who/which could be in a business with us.
If you know any, or if you are the person, we will be gladly have your opinions/suggestions.
I apologize for our dear customers who have been waiting for my response over a day.
I had to adjust and spare my time to get much information about amazon marketplace and contacting CPA, legal firm etc...

I may have another good news for you pretty soon regards on CrossOver.
But, I will announce it later when we have a concrete, firm information.
( We shall have a good news regards on recent issue about PCB board, flickering, power adapter issue and more).

Wish us a good luck and hope to serve you the best, ALWAYS!









P.S -> please contact me on Ebay message or those of dearest customers, you know where you could contact me.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's need some advice on this. I have contacted BCC about the Crossover 27Q LED-P about the green and blue PCB and he told me that the main PCB is blue and rest of 3 PCB are green. I thought there where only one PCB and if it has a green PCB then am all good. But if it has a blue PCB then am not good so what does this mean anyone know


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's need some advice on this. I have contacted BCC about the Crossover 27Q LED-P about the green and blue PCB and he told me that the main PCB is blue and rest of 3 PCB are green. I thought there where only one PCB and if it has a green PCB then am all good. But if it has a blue PCB then am not good so what does this mean anyone know


Theres 4 in total from my breakdown of the monitor a few days ago:

1 Green: Small button daughter board for power and backlight control (irrelevant)
1 Green: Long upper PCB under metal housing in top of panel when back is taken off (irrelevant)
1 Green: Smaller one not in the center which is the problematic one (relevant)
1 Teal: Main center in back of monitor behind vesa holes, controls DVI/Power (irrelevant)

From what he says you're all set. The main PCB is always going to be teal, the smaller one behind the back right vent panel, next to main PCB needs to be green but can end up teal as well but not in your case.

Enjoy the monitor when it arrives


----------



## FelonyInc

Hello All,

I got my CROSSOVER 27QD LED BLADE from AW about two weeks ago. Everything was working great, I loved the monitor. There was no back light bleeding or dead pixels. However the other day my monitor has stopped working. I went to turn it on and the status light just blinked red and blue. The screen would flash as well. Also a noise is coming from the back of the monitor when the screen flashes. I have made a video to help you understand my problem - 



.

I contacted AW and he said the problem is the monitor is turning on and off. I checked all the cables and made sure everything is tight. The green light on the power brick is solid as well. I did push in and hold the power connector into the side of the monitor. The screen worked for about 15 seconds then it did the same thing again. I tried to hold the power connector again to the monitor but could not get the monitor to work again. Sometimes the light on the monitor stays red as well.

I couldn't really find an answer in any previous posts so far. Anyone have any ideas what it could be? Do you think the power connector on the monitor could be bad? Any help would be greatly appreciated - Thanks


----------



## jerrolds

i wonder if the blade also uses the faulty MOSFET PCB? I know on the LED/LED-P you can look thru the ventilation on the right side backpane and if you see a teal pcb, thats bad - greeen pcb thats good.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Alright AW has been awesome. I just purchase the 3x crossovers on Oct 21, 2012.
Received verification from AW right away.
Next email was from AW stating they are gonna personally examine and test each monitor before shipment.
I received information from Aw that it was shipped during the afternoon of OCT 23, 2012.......
I just received them Oct 24, 2012!!!!

I don't know how he does it... but 1 day shipping from China to NY? How!!!!!!
Well I'm gonna be taking pictures and reviewing these bad boys. The Review will be up on the Evga forums since this coincides with my latest Custom RIG. Link will be provided.

I asked him if my 3 monitors do come with the GREEN PCB and he stated yes. Will open up to double check.

Kudos to AW, he is awesome.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Alright AW has been awesome. I just purchase the 3x crossovers on Oct 21, 2012.
> Received verification from AW right away.
> Next email was from AW stating they are gonna personally examine and test each monitor before shipment.
> I received information from Aw that it was shipped during the afternoon of OCT 23, 2012.......
> I just received them Oct 24, 2012!!!!
> I don't know how he does it... but 1 day shipping from China to NY? How!!!!!!
> Well I'm gonna be taking pictures and reviewing these bad boys. The Review will be up on the Evga forums since this coincides with my latest Custom RIG. Link will be provided.
> I asked him if my 3 monitors do come with the GREEN PCB and he stated yes. Will open up to double check.
> Kudos to AW, he is awesome.


Sounds like a win to me, no need to open them up to check you can see through the vent grating on the back right, enjoy em, I'll be waiting for that link


----------



## Descadent

I really need to take more shots of my surround setup and make a youtube vid so I can continue to convince more people to spend money with AW lol.


----------



## Teo14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> well i just ordered one from them/him/her/it, so i have been in contact with someone there.
> anything i can do to help?
> -dimwit-


I'm not sure if there is anything you can do. Looks like they are still talking to current customers but past customers with problems are getting the silent treatment.

This is the last message I received:

Code:



Code:


11-Oct-12 21:46:46 EDT

Hello
I am sorry for dealyed schedule.
I will receive New PCB Board on Next monday.
And I will send it by express shipping service.
After shipment, I will update tracking number in ebay.
Thanks

- bigclothcraft

I have since sent two more messages a couple of days apart and haven't received any reply. I hope that this all gets resolved soon.

Post here if anyone receives a reply from BigClothCraft.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> thanks for the info.
> i told him it was a gift and it was worth $125.
> so i assume that i will have to pay some customs fees?
> do i pay this when it is delivered?
> or will i be billed?
> thanks.
> -dimwit-


You will pay it at the door when DHL delivers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Yay, my DOA monitor was finally shipped back to korea, and dream seller is going to refund my money plus the shipping cost.


"Will refund your money + shipping cost?" That's weird, he should have asked you to ship it collect (they pay for all the shipping at the door this way.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Anyone have bigclothcraft provide support with back light failures?
> Bought mine in June and it failed during the first week in October.
> We exchanged a few emails but its been a week with no response.


You might want to open your monitor and check if it's the burned out blue mosfet. It might be easier for both of you if he just sends you a new pcb instead of a full monitor. Sucks to hear though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teo14*
> 
> I'm not sure if there is anything you can do. Looks like they are still talking to current customers but past customers with problems are getting the silent treatment.
> This is the last message I received:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 11-Oct-12 21:46:46 EDT
> Hello
> I am sorry for dealyed schedule.
> I will receive New PCB Board on Next monday.
> And I will send it by express shipping service.
> After shipment, I will update tracking number in ebay.
> Thanks
> - bigclothcraft
> 
> I have since sent two more messages a couple of days apart and haven't received any reply. I hope that this all gets resolved soon.
> Post here if anyone receives a reply from BigClothCraft.


He was out on business that week. Last I heard from him was Oct 18th (last I needed to hear from him anyway, I haven't sent any new messages since then).
Update: Heard from him tonight (~9pm EST Oct 24) after I sent him a thank you.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Also an update. Just received my replacement monitor from BCC.

I believe it's a 'new' model because a few things are different since the one I originally received in September.

The bright blue LED in the bottom right is no longer bright blue. It's like a darker blue, almost an indigo colour, a LOT better than the original annoying blue light, and it doesn't cause as much bleed out of that corner either.

Green PCB obviously.









No more yellow tinge! Clean, crisp colours.

The input ports have been spread out a little, so the DVI cable can be plugged in easier, and it looks like there's room to plug in something in the middle (it's like 2 brass holes, not sure if it's for their testing or something else, I haven't seen this on my last one).

The backlight no longer does that 'smooth' fading, it's more obvious steps when you push the buttons - probably saves CrossOver on costs, maybe something to do with Apple not ordering the panels anymore? Or maybe it's something to do with the green PCB which is more likely.
This one also didn't get flagged by customs, even with a 47.99 price. However, they did charge me the $6 tax on it. I COULD fill out a few forms to get a refund (since I originally paid that for the original), but meh, not worth the time.

It also didn't come in a soggy (wet) box.
Also, it does have 2 dead pixels, but it's quite literally impossible to notice them unless you specifically look for them, and only if you know where they are. I actually didn't notice the 2nd one until a 3rd look-over!


----------



## Althulas

That is good to read about a seller who has taken an interest and left some feedback about problems, maybe the other sellers have been busy with Amazon too?


----------



## Teo14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> He was out on business that week. Last I heard from him was Oct 18th (last I needed to hear from him anyway, I haven't sent any new messages since then).
> Update: Heard from him tonight (~9pm EST Oct 24) after I sent him a thank you.


I sent a follow up to his reply on the 16th, the 22nd and again today (the 25th) and still no reply yet. Originally he agreed to take the entire monitor back and sent me all of his info to do so. It was not until after I learned of the MOSFET issue that I suggested he just send a replacement PCB to save both time and money, but that was on Oct 2nd, getting quite impatient now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> Also an update. Just received my replacement monitor from BCC.


Glad to hear everything was resolved and your replacement has the green PCB instead of the problematic teal PCB.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teo14*
> 
> I sent a follow up to his reply on the 16th, the 22nd and again today (the 25th) and still no reply yet. Originally he agreed to take the entire monitor back and sent me all of his info to do so. It was not until after I learned of the MOSFET issue that I suggested he just send a replacement PCB to save both time and money, but that was on Oct 2nd, getting quite impatient now.
> Glad to hear everything was resolved and your replacement has the green PCB instead of the problematic teal PCB.


Can you confirm that you had the teal pcb? The main one that you see at the back on the older models IS supposed to be teal. You need to take off the back and confirm that it's burnt out, otherwise there's no point asking for a green one.

Are you communicating to him via ebay?

Yes the process is pretty frustrating I'll admit, I got pretty impatient at times too. But hey, at least you're with BCC and not another seller who won't pay for your return shipping at all.


----------



## Teo14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> Can you confirm that you had the teal pcb? The main one that you see at the back on the older models IS supposed to be teal. You need to take off the back and confirm that it's burnt out, otherwise there's no point asking for a green one.
> Are you communicating to him via ebay?
> Yes the process is pretty frustrating I'll admit, I got pretty impatient at times too. But hey, at least you're with BCC and not another seller who won't pay for your return shipping at all.


Yea its the teal PCB and its defiantly the mosfet that is burnt out I have taken it apart and made a post earlier with some pictures.

Good news though, just got a reply from BCC, apparently there was a delay in the shipment of PCBs from the manufacturer. He said he will ship it out today and I should recieve a tracking number a few hours after it ships out







.


----------



## coolxal

I ordered from BCC on Oct 17, 2012 and this "James" person messaged me asking the standard questions on what to put on invoice and marking it as gift. After I told him, he replied the next day and said checking the monitor takes 1-3 business days. It's been a while with no update to tracking number so I messaged BCC and they replied on Oct 23, 2012 saying they're still checking the monitor?

From what I've read here (with the fast shipping), it should've shipped already and arrived already... anyone else having long delays?


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> I ordered from BCC on Oct 17, 2012 and this "James" person messaged me asking the standard questions on what to put on invoice and marking it as gift. After I told him, he replied the next day and said checking the monitor takes 1-3 business days. It's been a while with no update to tracking number so I messaged BCC and they replied on Oct 23, 2012 saying they're still checking the monitor?
> From what I've read here (with the fast shipping), it should've shipped already and arrived already... anyone else having long delays?


sorry to hear that.
i ordered mine from BCC on Oct 20th and tracking said it should be here by the end of the day today.

i received the same email as you.

-dimwit-


----------



## Gloomfrost

Honestly I wouldn't be worried anything until at least a week has passed or something. That's a cause for concern, otherwise, just chill out and wait for an extra day. Don't forget they don't work on weeknights, and it's probably some guy at home who goes out to get monitors, then brings them back, puts them in boxes and ships them to us. If he's sick, or the weather is bad that he can't go to the CrossOver factory, he won't.

Don't worry and if nothing happens by week's end, then you can e-mail him saying it's been over a week and see what he says.


----------



## hackworth248

Hello!

I have a Crossover 27Q with green LED driver which is too bright on minimal brightness. So I've modded it to lower the minimal brightness. Major drawback of this mod is that brightness control gets too coarse and pretty inconvenient. Moreover, I'd like to have control via PC, not just via monitor buttons, so I've re-implemented brightness control part and added DDC/CI on an external ATmega48.

I just registered to let you know. If anybody's interested the code is available on Sourceforge:
project summary: https://sourceforge.net/projects/ddcciavr/
wiki: https://sourceforge.net/p/ddcciavr/wiki/Home/


----------



## dimwit13

dude Dude DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i got my monitor and...............DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!
puts my 1920 x 1200 monitor to shame....it went crying to MAMA-lol
so it came today, via UPS and no custom charge-yea for me.
they did send me a white one, but you cant see it from the front-lol

-dimwit-


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> dude Dude DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> i got my monitor and...............DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!
> puts my 1920 x 1200 monitor to shame....it went crying to MAMA-lol
> so it came today, via UPS and no custom charge-yea for me.
> they did send me a white one, but you cant see it from the front-lol
> -dimwit-


The white ones are still nice; mine went perfectly with my NZXT phantom. It's a shame that it didn't work.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> The white ones are still nice; mine went perfectly with my NZXT phantom. It's a shame that it didn't work.


.
well it gives me a reason to paint/mod it.
i have orange fans and tubing in my system-i might paint it orange.
more than likely, the wife will like it, over the 1200 one, and want me to get her one, then i will make sure i get a black one and she will get the white one.

-dimwit-

also, no dead pixals and no light bleed..........But, it is only 45 minutes old-lol


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> .
> well it gives me a reason to paint/mod it.
> i have orange fans and tubing in my system-i might paint it orange.
> more than likely, the wife will like it, over the 1200 one, and want me to get her one, then i will make sure i get a black one and she will get the white one.
> -dimwit-
> also, no dead pixals and no light bleed..........But, it is only 45 minutes old-lol


What color PCB did you get? I think you can see it through the vents in the back.

If you plan on buying a second one; I would suggest that you go for an Overlord model; trying to deal with an RMA in Korea is awful.


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> What color PCB did you get? I think you can see it through the vents in the back.
> If you plan on buying a second one; I would suggest that you go for an Overlord model; trying to deal with an RMA in Korea is awful.


sorry, cant see through the vents and dont need to take it apart....yet.
Overlord was out of stock when i ordered mine, i will get a 120hz for me, if he has any, when i need one.
sorry to hear about your RMA problems, are you getting a replacement? or money back?

-dimwit-


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> The white ones are still nice; mine went perfectly with my NZXT phantom. It's a shame that it didn't work.


Lol I got a NZXT Phantom 410 as well! Not sure if yours is the 410, and also mine is Gunmetal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> If you plan on buying a second one; I would suggest that you go for an Overlord model; trying to deal with an RMA in Korea is awful.


What is the Overlord model?!


----------



## dimwit13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> What is the Overlord model?!


Overlord computer

it is a us based company that sells 1440 monitors.

-dimwit-


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dimwit13*
> 
> sorry, cant see through the vents and dont need to take it apart....yet.
> Overlord was out of stock when i ordered mine, i will get a 120hz for me, if he has any, when i need one.
> sorry to hear about your RMA problems, are you getting a replacement? or money back?
> -dimwit-


These can refresh at 120Hz, but with the pixel response time, it won't look like 120Hz.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> These can refresh at 120Hz, but with the pixel response time, it won't look like 120Hz.


I second this, the panel needs to be ready for it, and they aren't yet. Give it a year or so, we'll start seeing 24-32 inch LCD's with 120hz refresh.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> I second this, the panel needs to be ready for it, and they aren't yet. Give it a year or so, we'll start seeing 24-32 inch LCD's with 120hz refresh.


We are already seeing 24" monitors with 120Hz. I am planning on buying one. We don't currently have a 1440p monitor that has a panel capable of 120Hz; they only make IPS 1440p monitors currently.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Have a question. I ordered 3x CrossOver LEd-p from AW.
The first one I saw right away I looked at the back and it had the GREEN PCB, which I even opened up the monitor to make sure.
Picture below:


I got to the second monitor I did not see a PCB, I figured it was just moved.
I opened up the monitor and I don't see any PCB with mosfets on it. Is this normal?
Picture below:


The third monitor also has the green pcb. So whats up with this second one?
Just confused about this or is this considered the new models? or is it missing a piece? I have yet to try any of these out, First looking through to make sure there everything I was promised.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Have a question. I ordered 3x CrossOver LEd-p from AW.
> The first one I saw right away I looked at the back and it had the GREEN PCB, which I even opened up the monitor to make sure.
> Picture below:
> 
> I got to the second monitor I did not see a PCB, I figured it was just moved.
> I opened up the monitor and I don't see any PCB with mosfets on it. Is this normal?
> Picture below:
> 
> The third monitor also has the green pcb. So whats up with this second one?
> Just confused about this or is this considered the new models? or is it missing a piece? I have yet to try any of these out, First looking through to make sure there everything I was promised.


The second one is missing the backlight green pcb like pictured in the first, I don't assume it'll work without it


----------



## dafoomie

For those who ordered from lightnspace, which PCB did they send you?


----------



## jerrolds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> These can refresh at 120Hz, but with the pixel response time, it won't look like 120Hz.


What do you mean? these are 6ms grey to grey - thats 166fps max, if you slow it down to even 10ms on the low end - thats 100fps ...even at 8ms response, thats 125

unless im completely misunerstanding you 6ms is fine for 120hz most of the time


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> What do you mean? these are 6ms grey to grey - thats 166fps max, if you slow it down to even 10ms on the low end - thats 100fps ...even at 8ms response, thats 125
> unless im completely misunerstanding you 6ms is fine for 120hz most of the time


6ms probably doesn't actually mean that the pixels will change every 6ms, or else companies would be making 120Hz IPS panels. IPS panels just aren't fast enough to refresh at 120Hz; I've talked to someone running a catleap at 120Hz, and he said that it doesn't feel like a TN 120Hz.


----------



## tyler24

Hi all.
I ve received my 27Q LED-P a couple of days ago.I ve noticed an extended 10cm X10cm approx area of light bleeding
down the right corner of the panel along with a smaller one on the right up corner,I have tested in dark black solid background
in a blackout room.
I have sent some pictures to the seller who replied that i have to repeat the test using a BLUE SCREEN instead of Black
*as the manufacturer recommends*, and post back the photos again.
AFAIK all light bleed tests performed under dark black screen, am i miss something ?
Ps'' In blue screen there is no bleeding at all''
Thanks for help.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Got these monitors from AW. Im trying to not go into the hassle of sending these monitors back but If I have to I hope AW doesnt give me any problems. AW has been awesome but has not responded back yet so I pose this question to the community. This also relates to to my question few posts above.

Does anyone have this main green pcb connected to the green mosfet pcb?
On my other monitors its has the blue pcb thats connected to the green pcb.
I want to make sure there isnt any compatibility issues
Here are pics.

Here is the monitor that is missing the green pcb with mosfets.


Can this one be connected to the the green pcb with mosfets?
Pic below
.

I'm used to seeing the blue one and not the green one.
Pic below


The green one seems to have the connections spaced out a bit which means this might be a newer revised board since someone else stated the same thing in a prior posts.

Also when checking the 3rd monitor internal connections are fine it has the blue to Green mosfet pcb but just my luck the power button is broken. It's easily replaced if Aw can send me a new unit that controls power/birghtness. Hope he does that.

I do have doubts on these monitors quality. It's to my understanding that AW also checks these monitors himself and honestly if that was done these problems would have been noticed. Once I can get the required pieces in my hands I can check the actual panel quality for back light bleed and dead pixels, since this is a PERFECT PIXEL guarantee and the panel is supposed to be considered A+ in accordance to AW. Ofcourse I figure the panel is probably A though. Need some insight guys. Let me know whats inside your monitor so I know I have the go ahead.


----------



## FlyingSolo

PERFECT PIXEL is a scam. If you get one bad pixel they might give you say $20 back or something and if it has more bad pixel then they will give you a little bit more money back. I have read this some where forgot where but i think its some where on ocn. Have you tested your display yet and these display are not A+ even if they say this


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> PERFECT PIXEL is a scam. If you get one bad pixel they might give you say $20 back or something and if it has more bad pixel then they will give you a little bit more money back. I have read this some where forgot where but i think its some where on ocn. Have you tested your display yet and these display are not A+ even if they say this


Can't test them yet until everything is fixed. So can you answer any of the questions I asked in my post?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Can't test them yet until everything is fixed. So can you answer any of the questions I asked in my post?


I have not bought one yet so i cant answer any of the questions. At the moment but probably in a weeks time i can


----------



## Cloudz00x

can anyone answer my post?


----------



## FelonyInc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> i wonder if the blade also uses the faulty MOSFET PCB? I know on the LED/LED-P you can look thru the ventilation on the right side backpane and if you see a teal pcb, thats bad - greeen pcb thats good.


Well as mentioned in my previous post I was having issues with my blade but all is good now. I just replaced the cable from the power brick to the wall and it worked after that. I was originally using the cable & prong adapter that came with the monitor.

I couldn't tell what the color of the PCB was without taking the case apart. After taking the case apart I did in fact have the green pcb. Here are some pics:

  

I really love the picture quality and resolution. Plus support from AW was great as he answered all my questions immediately. I must say the case and stand on the other hand are not that great for the blade version. When I first received mine the bottom stand had multiple holes in it. Seems the original hole in the stand was way off and they had to make another one. I would def recommend this monitor though.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FelonyInc*
> 
> Well as mentioned in my previous post I was having issues with my blade but all is good now. I just replaced the cable from the power brick to the wall and it worked after that. I was originally using the cable & prong adapter that came with the monitor.
> I couldn't tell what the color of the PCB was without taking the case apart. After taking the case apart I did in fact have the green pcb. Here are some pics:
> 
> I really love the picture quality and resolution. Plus support from AW was great as he answered all my questions immediately. I must say the case and stand on the other hand are not that great for the blade version. When I first received mine the bottom stand had multiple holes in it. Seems the original hole in the stand was way off and they had to make another one. I would def recommend this monitor though.


Thats not the green pcb people talk about. Look at my post above and you see what the back light green pcb looks like.
Question though is that the only board in your monitor besides the board that has the powe/birghtness buttons?
I wanna confirm if these new revision monitors use the Green PCB with the 3 mosfets or not. Cause I have that same board in my monitor yet no Green PCB with 3 mosfets across. Look at my posts above and you'll see what I'm talking about.


----------



## FelonyInc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Thats not the green pcb people talk about. Look at my post above and you see what the back light green pcb looks like.
> Question though is that the only board in your monitor besides the board that has the powe/birghtness buttons?
> I wanna confirm if these new revision monitors use the Green PCB with the 3 mosfets or not. Cause I have that same board in my monitor yet no Green PCB with 3 mosfets across. Look at my posts above and you'll see what I'm talking about.


My post wasn't directed at you. However this is the only board in my monitor beside the one for the power/brightness buttons as you mention. I have a different model crossover than you. I have the 27QD LED BLADE .


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FelonyInc*
> 
> My post wasn't directed at you. However this is the only board in my monitor beside the one for the power/brightness buttons as you mention. I have a different model crossover than you. I have the 27QD LED BLADE .


Um everything inside the monitors are the same. Hence why I asked. Thanks for answering. Regardless if the post was directed towards me, its not nice to be rude. Again thanks.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> The second one is missing the backlight green pcb like pictured in the first, I don't assume it'll work without it


Alright seems like it's the new revision of the monitors. Everything tested out fine. No Dead pixels and near perfect back lighting. Installed the icc profile just to make sure the colors are calibrated. So I guess you and me were both wrong, I assumed all monitors needed the Green PCB with 3 mosfets. Seem this one doesn't. Hopefully this is an improvement.
Was able to test 2 out oft he 3 monitors. The 2 monitors are identical. No Dead Pixels and near perfect back lighting. No problem between these two. AW came through on the promise. Only issue is I cant test 1 of them due to it coming in with a broken power button. Can't turn it on. Contacted AW about this, hopefully he can send me a new power/brightness piece and I can have this monitor up and running and test it. If I get a 3 for 3, Ima kiss AW lol


----------



## FelonyInc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Um everything inside the monitors are the same. Hence why I asked. Thanks for answering. Regardless if the post was directed towards me, its not nice to be rude. Again thanks.


Wasn't trying to be rude, you just read it that way.







No, problem good luck with the monitors.


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Um everything inside the monitors are the same. Hence why I asked. Thanks for answering. Regardless if the post was directed towards me, its not nice to be rude. Again thanks.


In what way was he rude?

If what he said has offended you due to personal beliefs or religion, you should report him to a mod.

But frankly, I think you're making a big deal over nothing.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Sounds like a win to me, no need to open them up to check you can see through the vent grating on the back right, enjoy em, I'll be waiting for that link


Alright,. I didn't forget about you bro!
Here's the link to my Build Log - http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?&m=1748657&mpage=1
Here's the link to my CrossOver LED-P Review - http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1778855


----------



## Koehler

Does the Yamakasi and CrossOver monitors use the same LG panels? Can someone please confirm this before I decide to buy one of these monitors?


----------



## L D4WG

Why are the 2730's not in here?

There are lots of models missing from the main page...


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Does the Yamakasi and CrossOver monitors use the same LG panels? Can someone please confirm this before I decide to buy one of these monitors?


they use A- grade LG panels, AFAIK. They are the same kind used in the Apple cinema display.


----------



## jerrolds

I just took the plunge and "upgraded" to Windows 8 - so far not so bad - but i notice when i apply a Color profile nothing happens with my CrossOver LED-P.

Grabbed the profile from http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#c

Anyone have this problem in Win 8?


----------



## Hallengreen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I just took the plunge and "upgraded" to Windows 8 - so far not so bad - but i notice when i apply a Color profile nothing happens with my CrossOver LED-P.
> Grabbed the profile from http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#c
> Anyone have this problem in Win 8?


Tried with my old monitor in win 8 too, can't see a diff.. Maybe it's an epic fail.


----------



## DarK_MischieF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hallengreen*
> 
> Tried with my old monitor in win 8 too, can't see a diff.. Maybe it's an epic fail.


This happens in Windows 7 as well, sometimes removing the profile and readding it helps. Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked as well as "Set as default profile".


----------



## jerrolds

I found this http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-desktop/cant-apply-an-icc-profile-to-display-cant/71b8d8e8-afa3-435a-aae4-6a8a184b6439

The interesting part is this
_
Click the Advanced tab in the Color Management - System Defaults dialog box, and do one of the following:
To enable Windows to load display calibrations, select the *Use Windows display calibration check box.*[_


----------



## FlyingSolo

This is a question for all the users who have the 1440p Korean display. How does a 720p video and 1080p video look like. Is it good or is it not that good then say a normal 720p,1080p display would look like while playing videos in 720p,1080p


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> This is a question for all the users who have the 1440p Korean display. How does a 720p video and 1080p video look like. Is it good or is it not that good then say a normal 720p,1080p display would look like while playing videos in 720p,1080p


Depends on your distance from the display, used both on a 27Q and Apple Cinema, using 6-16mbps 720p and 1080p H264 in MKV

720p: Acceptable to above average at 3-4 feet away, obviously it's going to stretch but holds it own

1080p: Very slight changes, nothing you wont expect, looks great either way imho for the resolution it's adapting to


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Depends on your distance from the display, used both on a 27Q and Apple Cinema, using 6-16mbps 720p and 1080p H264 in MKV
> 720p: Acceptable to above average at 3-4 feet away, obviously it's going to stretch but holds it own
> 1080p: Very slight changes, nothing you wont expect, looks great either way imho for the resolution it's adapting to


Thanks +rep. Hopefully should be buying one this week


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> they use A- grade LG panels, AFAIK. They are the same kind used in the Apple cinema display.


Some of the listings for Crossovers claim grade A panels but I don't know how true that is. That might just be a reference to their 3 dead pixel or less policy vs others who are at 5. As far as I know, the most meaningful difference is the bezel.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> This is a question for all the users who have the 1440p Korean display. How does a 720p video and 1080p video look like. Is it good or is it not that good then say a normal 720p,1080p display would look like while playing videos in 720p,1080p


I own this monitor and my movies look better than in my main TV LOL


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> Some of the listings for Crossovers claim grade A panels but I don't know how true that is. That might just be a reference to their 3 dead pixel or less policy vs others who are at 5. As far as I know, the most meaningful difference is the bezel.


I find it hard to believe a lot of the things they say. They are probably just A grade because of their testing policies.


----------



## tyler24

Anyone noticed any yellowish areas in a white background?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I own this monitor and my movies look better than in my main TV LOL


Lol. Thanks for letting me know +rep


----------



## salvanos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treefiddy*
> 
> Fedex woes...
> A word of warning to anyone sending back a monitor via Fedex...
> In the UK, Fedex bill for customs charges retrospectively - this means that you get the monitor and a week later an invoice appears for 20% VAT + £10.50 clearance. The fee is already high compared to DHL (£1.25), but add to this the incompetence of the service and this thing really grates.
> Fedex's fee is non-refundable and must be paid for even in the event of a return. Fedex do have a "temporary stay" service, but this needs to be booked in advance and costs £50 + VAT or whatever big number the girl at the end of the telephone could think of. The VAT is reclaimable, however, by applying direct to HMRC with the original customs clearance document and a proof of sending certificate for the return carriage. As Fedex staff apparently have no means of communicating with each other, it is a painstaking task to ring up at each stage of the return process to request documentation.
> If it can go wrong, it will go wrong.
> I booked the return collection giving the original sender's account reference number and thought all well and good.
> On the day of the collection, the driver refused to accept the package, asked for payment for the delivery and wanted more paperwork!
> I called their office and was e-mailed a "Commercial Invoice" to be printed out 3 times and handed to the driver.
> Turns out they needed 6 copies.
> On the day of the 2nd collection attempt, I phoned again and was told Fedex needed an "Airway Bill" too.
> Grrr! No matter, the driver would just have to bring the additional form with him.
> Finally the package was on its way, BUT the service had been changed from "International Economy" to the more expensive "International Priority"! More commission for someone, I suspect.
> The monitor is in South Korea. I've wasted hours on the phone to Fedex on their premium rate call line and I'm waiting to see if the seller will refund me despite having the monitor sent back on a premium rate service they hadn't agreed to. The e-mail address given to me over the phone to get a proof of posting certificate from Fedex has bounced and I'm left trying to get in contact via their Webmail form.
> About £350 down at the moment and no monitor.


sigh...
same like mine
fedex + commercial invoice problem + higher fee...

gonna wait until the price lower like achieva shimian
gonna take one

any difference between crossover product exclude the stand?
does cheapest type, blade still better than other brand?


----------



## salvanos

double post


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's what CrossOver model will you say is the best one to get. CrossOver 27Q LED-P, CrossOver 2720MDP GOLD LED Pivot,CrossOver 2730MD LED Pivot,CrossOver 27Q LED-P BLADE Pivot. I just don't know which one to go for. Also later on i might buy another one or two more display. Will also be hooking it up to my home theater receiver with the digital cable from the motherboard to the home theater receiver and for picture use the dvi-d from card to monitor at the moment am thinking of going for the CrossOver 27Q LED-P and is it true that the ones that has speakers built in are crap in sound or is it the same as tv built in speakers


----------



## tyler24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Does the Yamakasi and CrossOver monitors use the same LG panels? Can someone please confirm this before I decide to buy one of these monitors?


They use the same panels as apple's and some Dells models.the only diff is that they are rejected means may be some flaws ,such as light bleed(clouding is the most common)but is very rear to find dead pixels.


----------



## tyler24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tyler24*
> 
> Anyone noticed any yellowish areas in a white background?


Anyone guys?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salvanos*
> 
> sigh...
> same like mine
> fedex + commercial invoice problem + higher fee...
> gonna wait until the price lower like achieva shimian
> gonna take one
> any difference between crossover product exclude the stand?
> does cheapest type, blade still better than other brand?


Damn after reading this am a bit scared since am in the uk. Now if i buy the SquareTrade 3-Year Warranty Plus Accident Protection. Say if something happens will they pay for shipping and stuff for my replacement or do i have to pay from my own pocket to ship it. If they pay for all that stuff and i don't have to pay a penny then i might as well get the SquareTrade rather then fedex + commercial invoice problem + higher fee etc if something should go wrong


----------



## Remix65

i just wonder about how many of these monitors have sold since they debuted and who found them out. how many have been bought in ocn and other forums.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Does these monitors allow a gtx 670 ftw to go into the bios?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Does these monitors allow a gtx 670 ftw to go into the bios?


Mine did, shouldn't have a reason not to even while I have my 2 27qs and Apple Cinema it defaults to the top most dvi on my first GTX 670 and gives the booting screens to my left 27q


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> I found this http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-desktop/cant-apply-an-icc-profile-to-display-cant/71b8d8e8-afa3-435a-aae4-6a8a184b6439
> The interesting part is this
> _
> Click the Advanced tab in the Color Management - System Defaults dialog box, and do one of the following:
> To enable Windows to load display calibrations, select the *Use Windows display calibration check box.*[_


I does work well this guide but if you don't follow the guide correctly it won't work because the Hidden option.

*ENABLE CALIBRATION LOADING BY WINDOWS*

Here's the hidden bit of help file...
To enable or disable calibration loading by Windows , you must be logged on with a user account that has administrative privileges.
*1* - Click to open Color Management.
*2* - Click the Advanced tab, and click Change system defaults .
*3* - Click the Advanced tab in the Color Management - System Defaults dialog box, and do one of the following:
*** - To enable Windows to load display calibrations, select the Use Windows display calibration check box.
*** - To prevent Windows from loading display calibrations, clear the Use Windows display calibration check box.
*4* - Click Close in the Color Management - System Defaults dialog box.
*5*- Click Close in the Color Management dialog box.

Not only is it obscure, it is confused further by the fact that you are back in the same dialog box twice, but the second time it is labelled Color Management - System Defaults instead of Color Management as it was the first two times. But only on the second time is the required box enabled to allow you to tick i.e. it's a system wide setting. Easy to miss.

Either MS's experts don't know about this, and can't find it in the help files either, or they couldn't be bothered answering my question. In any case a) I hope this helps someone else, and b) I hope MS lift their support game and actually respond in future to people as frustrated and helpless as I was. Thanks Microsoft for wasting a day of my life.










thanks for point this out. after I installed windows 8 pro I did forgot the ICC profile.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's what CrossOver model will you say is the best one to get. CrossOver 27Q LED-P, CrossOver 2720MDP GOLD LED Pivot,CrossOver 2730MD LED Pivot,CrossOver 27Q LED-P BLADE Pivot. I just don't know which one to go for. Also later on i might buy another one or two more display. Will also be hooking it up to my home theater receiver with the digital cable from the motherboard to the home theater receiver and for picture use the dvi-d from card to monitor at the moment am thinking of going for the CrossOver 27Q LED-P and is it true that the ones that has speakers built in are crap in sound or is it the same as tv built in speakers


If you need the extra inputs and the OSD the 2720MDP the one to go for. I have my PC connected via the DVI and Xbox via the HDMI, if you search my name you can find some pics. If not go for the cheapest or case design you like panels are the same I believe. The inbuilt speakers on my MDP are mediocre at best but ok at low volume but not worth paying any premium for.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Mine did, shouldn't have a reason not to even while I have my 2 27qs and Apple Cinema it defaults to the top most dvi on my first GTX 670 and gives the booting screens to my left 27q


Thanks for letting me know +rep


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> If you need the extra inputs and the OSD the 2720MDP the one to go for. I have my PC connected via the DVI and Xbox via the HDMI, if you search my name you can find some pics. If not go for the cheapest or case design you like panels are the same I believe. The inbuilt speakers on my MDP are mediocre at best but ok at low volume but not worth paying any premium for.


Thanks for letting me know +rep. Will i know any difference with the multi inputs with lag while playing games. Since i just became a pc gamer just recently will i be able to tell. Also when you hook up your xbox 360 how does it compare to an normal hdtv on 720p1080p is there any big diffidence or does it look normal


----------



## BimWim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Anyone have bigclothcraft provide support with back light failures?
> Bought mine in June and it failed during the first week in October.
> We exchanged a few emails but its been a week with no response.


Still no response from bigclothcraft.
My monitor has been sitting in the corner collecting dust for weeks now.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Still no response from bigclothcraft.
> My monitor has been sitting in the corner collecting dust for weeks now.


well he did reply to me just few days ago when i asked him about the green pcb thing. I still have not bought one yet tho. Which model did you buy


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know +rep. Will i know any difference with the multi inputs with lag while playing games. Since i just became a pc gamer just recently will i be able to tell. Also when you hook up your xbox 360 how does it compare to an normal hdtv on 720p1080p is there any big diffidence or does it look normal


I have not noticed any input lag in any of my PC or Xbox games, only ever used my Xbox on a monitor so can't help there but looks fine to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Still no response from bigclothcraft.
> My monitor has been sitting in the corner collecting dust for weeks now.


I've had no replies to my recent enquiries about a replacement pcb which he said he would get back to me after a few days and that was in the first week of this month Proberly got fed up of my emails


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> I have not noticed any input lag in any of my PC or Xbox games, only ever used my Xbox on a monitor so can't help there but looks fine to me.
> I've had no replies to my recent enquiries about a replacement pcb which he said he would get back to me after a few days and that was in the first week of this month Proberly got fed up of my emails


Thanks for your reply. Now am a bit worried about this seller cause his the cheapest i found for the Crossover 27Q LED-P Pivot and heard he was reliable to until now that is. What model did you get and did you have one blue pcb and 3 green pcb. Also how long after did you have problems with the display


----------



## BimWim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> well he did reply to me just few days ago when i asked him about the green pcb thing. I still have not bought one yet tho. Which model did you buy


It is a "Crossover 27Q LED-P Pivot"


----------



## Althulas

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. Now am a bit worried about this seller cause his the cheapest i found for the Crossover 27Q LED-P Pivot and heard he was reliable to until now that is. What model did you get and did you have one blue pcb and 3 green pcb. Also how long after did you have problems with the display


I have the 2720MDP led gold, it has the blue pcb in it which stated giving a intermittant flickering fault upto now my seller was working with me to solve it with good comms. Instead of returning my panel I asked for a replacement green pcb about the second or fourth of this month which he said he would get back to me in a few days so I don't know what's going on now. I last emailed him two days ago, just seems funny to be replying to other people.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> I have the 2720MDP led gold, it has the blue pcb in it which stated giving a intermittant flickering fault upto now my seller was working with me to solve it with good comms. Instead of returning my panel I asked for a replacement green pcb about the second or fourth of this month which he said he would get back to me in a few days so I don't know what's going on now. I last emailed him two days ago, just seems funny to be replying to other people.


I guess they reply only to new people wanting to buy then once you done buying. Then if any problems does happen they listen for a few emails then just don't care any more by the looks of it. Since he replied to me a few days ago. Am just thinking now if i should just buy a dell now since the crossover in uk cost £257.88 and if i add another £257.88 i can probably buy one for that price but i really wannted a glossy display tho and apple cost double that price


----------



## ronald

My crossover recently died because of the burnt mosfet as i was using the blue pcb
4 days later after emailing AW about it they kindly sent me a new green pcb and it's worked thus far.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Does these monitors allow a gtx 670 ftw to go into the bios?


I'm using both the crossover 27q led and the 670 FTW and works flawlessly.

If you want the least lag in your games go with the 27q led or the led p .. As I heard that multi inputs creates more lag or ghosting in games

Don't save a few bucks and get yours from AW ... In the long run its going to pay off I ordered 2 of them one for me and one for my brother and they both had green pcbs so AW FTW


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I'm using both the crossover 27q led and the 670 FTW and works flawlessly.
> If you want the least lag in your games go with the 27q led or the led p .. As I heard that multi inputs creates more lag or ghosting in games
> Don't save a few bucks and get yours from AW ... In the long run its going to pay off I ordered 2 of them one for me and one for my brother and they both had green pcbs so AW FTW


I just like to assure people who are thinking about buying a multi input model from a fact point of experience. Although physically you should have some input lag with the extra ports it is no where near as exaggerated stories that are floating about we'll not with the crossover anyway. I play a wide range of games mostly 1st person shooters, flight sims and RPGs. I use a GTX 580 to push the graphics about on my pc and have yet to notice any ghosting or lag that has stood out while gaming even with my Xbox or watching a Blu ray movie there is no Lag of note!


----------



## jerrolds

Bright movies look GREAT on my Crossover - Avengers @ 1080p looks detailed and crisp - the only problem is the blacks - not as good as my plasma, but still not bad


----------



## Hallengreen

Just recived mine, WHAT A PICTURE!!!

I have been using it for around 3-4 hours now, played Medal Of Honor & Need For Speed, can't say anything else that i'm really happy with this monitor!
Haven't seen any movies or anything yet on it, but can't imagine I would be dissapointed!


----------



## marcusfrenkel

I'm about to buy "CrossOver 27Q LED White". Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-White-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-LG-S-IPS-Monitor-/110914577586?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d30624b2

It has 380cd/m2 instead of 450cd/m2 as in "CrossOver 27Q LED". Is this a huge difference? I also wonder whether the "CrossOver 27Q LED White" has no PWM like "CrossOver 27Q LED"?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I'm using both the crossover 27q led and the 670 FTW and works flawlessly.
> If you want the least lag in your games go with the 27q led or the led p .. As I heard that multi inputs creates more lag or ghosting in games
> Don't save a few bucks and get yours from AW ... In the long run its going to pay off I ordered 2 of them one for me and one for my brother and they both had green pcbs so AW FTW


The only problem with AW is that he/she now sells the CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P for £267 to £300 + customs not added now that's close to an Asus PB278Q ,Dell U2713HM, Dell UltraSharp U2711 that's if you add say another £200 to £270 you can pick one of the three i just mentioned. And you will get a full uk,eu,usa guarantee with no problem for shipping or any customs charge for receiving it and sending it back as well. If you have any problems but if you do with the Korean display then you will be paying around the same or more then the three display i just mentioned. That's why am looking for a little bit less or else i just might get one of those display just to be on the safe side


----------



## Cloudz00x

Hey read my review on the CrossOver LED-P purchased from AW.
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1778855

I discuss the monitor in detail, also give different profiles that are used and show how to install and enable the profiles.
Also discuss OverClocking of the Korean monitors and whether or not it is worth it.

Should help anyone who are New to the monitors or the old school ones can also get a new calibrated profile that is near perfect color.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Hey read my review on the CrossOver LED-P purchased from AW.
> http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1778855
> I discuss the monitor in detail, also give different profiles that are used and show how to install and enable the profiles.
> Also discuss OverClocking of the Korean monitors and whether or not it is worth it.
> Should help anyone who are New to the monitors or the old school ones can also get a new calibrated profile that is near perfect color.


Thanks. I have all ready read your review on evga forums i think that was two days ago lol. Plus you have one awesome gaming rig that i have seen on evga forums as well


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks. I have all ready read your review on evga forums i think that was two days ago lol. Plus you have one awesome gaming rig that i have seen on evga forums as well


Thanks bro, I did updated my ICC profile section. I'm using a different profile and its a world of difference compared to what the ThunderBolt profile and the CrossOver profile that is mainly being used. I do recommend trying it so you can see what I'm talking about.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Thanks bro, I did updated my ICC profile section. I'm using a different profile and its a world of difference compared to what the ThunderBolt profile and the CrossOver profile that is mainly being used. I do recommend trying it so you can see what I'm talking about.


Thanks for letting me know about the new ICC profile that you have updated. Do i need the same graphics card as you to have the same picture color or is it that i don't need to have the same graphics card as you and it will work. At the moment am just waiting for my evga gtx 670 4gb +back plate replacement from evga so am without a card now. Just using the h4000 for the time being. Hopefully will be buying one of the CrossOver 27 LED-P by end of this week. As long as it last me at least 6 months or more then am all happy


----------



## shortyg83

Ok so I am looking to buy a 27Q from lightnspace .
But reading about these blue PCB problems I am getting worried.
Anyone have that PCB and not have issues?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> Ok so I am looking to buy a 27Q from lightnspace .
> But reading about these blue PCB problems I am getting worried.
> Anyone have that PCB and not have issues?


There should be 1 blue pcb main and other 3 pcb in green then your all good as far as i know


----------



## shortyg83

I see a couple other people have gotten them with only 2 green pcb anymore as they combined two of them


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> Ok so I am looking to buy a 27Q from lightnspace .
> But reading about these blue PCB problems I am getting worried.
> Anyone have that PCB and not have issues?


I just ordered a Crossover from lightnspace, I emailed them beforehand and they told me they only have the newer models with the new pcb, though I'd expect them to say that either way. I'll report back on what shows up.


----------



## shortyg83

Ok I just ordered to from him 1 for me and 1 for friend. We will see how they turn out.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know about the new ICC profile that you have updated. Do i need the same graphics card as you to have the same picture color or is it that i don't need to have the same graphics card as you and it will work. At the moment am just waiting for my evga gtx 670 4gb +back plate replacement from evga so am without a card now. Just using the h4000 for the time being. Hopefully will be buying one of the CrossOver 27 LED-P by end of this week. As long as it last me at least 6 months or more then am all happy


Yea the monitors will last, just take care of it and make sure you either get the GREEN PCB version or the New Revision. Also as a precaution have your PC and monitors plugged into a UPS System so you can have the benefit of protection from random power outages. As for the profile's you dont need the same graphic cards. All profiles work regardless. If it means anything I actually tested these monitors on a HD6950. My rig I'm working on is almost done then I can transfer.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Also as a precaution have your PC and monitors plugged into a UPS System so you can have the benefit of protection from random power outages.


You don't really need one of those. You just need a good surge protector or line conditioner, then you are safe.


----------



## shortyg83

I do have one more question. I am in the United States. I was curious if anyone who lives here got charged by customs?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's just called SquareTrade uk. And gave them the item number for not a pixel perfect CrossOver 27Q LED-P and they have told me that they will cover the item. So this will cost me all together £300 guess i will be getting one then or do you guys think i should just spend another £179.12 and get the Asus PB278Q


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Yea the monitors will last, just take care of it and make sure you either get the GREEN PCB version or the New Revision. Also as a precaution have your PC and monitors plugged into a UPS System so you can have the benefit of protection from random power outages. As for the profile's you dont need the same graphic cards. All profiles work regardless. If it means anything I actually tested these monitors on a HD6950. My rig I'm working on is almost done then I can transfer.


Thanks for letting me know. Also about the ICC profile you have uploaded on evga forums. I have downloaded it and was wandering what is your brightness setup to. So once i get mine hopefully can get the picture setup like how you have now


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> You don't really need one of those. You just need a good surge protector or line conditioner, then you are safe.


Thanks for letting me know. If i get two surge protector and i plug one in the main socket and the other one on the surge protector will this work. Or do i need to hook both of them up to the main socket


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know. If i get two surge protector and i plug one in the main socket and the other one on the surge protector will this work. Or do i need to hook both of them up to the main socket


Why would you plug two surge protectors into eachother? That seems like it would defeat the purpose of a surge protector.

The only thing I know about surge protectors is that they should have a high surge suppression energy rating.


----------



## Crazy9000

You should never daisy chain surge protectors. The fire marshal will give you a warning if he sees it


----------



## RazerX

What would you suggest for gaming purposes this or the Asus PB278Q?


----------



## b0z0

I really want to buy the Crossover Q27, but I'm iffy about the bad PCB mosfet issue. Do the Crossover blades have the PCB issue?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Why would you plug two surge protectors into eachother? That seems like it would defeat the purpose of a surge protector.
> The only thing I know about surge protectors is that they should have a high surge suppression energy rating.


I guess your right i just need to buy a longer length one and that should do the job thanks


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> You should never daisy chain surge protectors. The fire marshal will give you a warning if he sees it


Lol


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> I really want to buy the Crossover Q27, but I'm iffy about the bad PCB mosfet issue. Do the Crossover blades have the PCB issue?


I think they all have the same pcb inside them


----------



## b0z0

Thanks. I'm gonna keep an eye out and see if lightnspace's monitor's have the new PCB like stated.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Looks like am stuck since other sellers wont mark it down like BCC so i guess if i get one it will have to be from BCC


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Looks like am stuck since other sellers wont mark it down like BCC so i guess if i get one it will have to be from BCC


Would kill if you lived in New England, US so I can sell you one of mine







BCC should pan out alright tho, more good than mixed/negative feedback on the forums from what I gather


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know. Also about the ICC profile you have uploaded on evga forums. I have downloaded it and was wandering what is your brightness setup to. So once i get mine hopefully can get the picture setup like how you have now


Set all monitors to max brightness then click it down 6 times. That's how I have it.
How do you like the profile, major difference right?


----------



## b0z0

Yeah, I'm trying to sale a few items I have to pick one or two up. BenQ XL2420T and a Asus Matrix GTX580 plat.


----------



## C70T5

I want to buy a Monitor Arm stand to attach to my Crossover 27Q so I can move the screen about back and forth. Can anyone please tell me what VESA mount I need to buy? Would something like this be ok:



http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/4-/30302066/Ergotron-45-241-026-Mounting-Arm-for-Flat-Panel-Display-61-cm-Screen-Support-9-07-kg-Load-Capacity/Product.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518|cat:30302066|prd:30302066


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Set all monitors to max brightness then click it down 6 times. That's how I have it.
> How do you like the profile, major difference right?


I have not bought one yet. Just downloading them IIC profile and wallpapers now lol. But gonna buy one soon tho


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Would kill if you lived in New England, US so I can sell you one of mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BCC should pan out alright tho, more good than mixed/negative feedback on the forums from what I gather


I would have bought one from you if you lived in UK


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I want to buy a Monitor Arm stand to attach to my Crossover 27Q so I can move the screen about back and forth. Can anyone please tell me what VESA mount I need to buy? Would something like this be ok:
> 
> http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/4-/30302066/Ergotron-45-241-026-Mounting-Arm-for-Flat-Panel-Display-61-cm-Screen-Support-9-07-kg-Load-Capacity/Product.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518|cat:30302066|prd:30302066


The weight to ship my monitor was over 15 Kg, so that 9Kg max VESA mount won't work; I'd assume that the monitor is at least 13 Kg.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's one thing i wanted to know since am new to this pc gaming stuff. Do you need 3 monitors for gaming or is one monitor enough. At the moment i have a projector. That's the Optoma HD65 with 3D-XL i use that for my console gaming and movies in 3d and 2d


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I want to buy a Monitor Arm stand to attach to my Crossover 27Q so I can move the screen about back and forth. Can anyone please tell me what VESA mount I need to buy? Would something like this be ok:
> 
> http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/4-/30302066/Ergotron-45-241-026-Mounting-Arm-for-Flat-Panel-Display-61-cm-Screen-Support-9-07-kg-Load-Capacity/Product.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518|cat:30302066|prd:30302066


Ergotrons will work just fine, the monitor is lighter than you'd expect, I use the ergotron MX wall mount on two of them and it's overkill (only bought to match my third)
To answer your actual question it's 100x100 VESA mounting needed to use 3rd party stands/arms


----------



## dafoomie

Can you tell if it's the new revision without taking the back cover off? Can you just look through the vents?

Monitor arrived today but I don't have time to do much testing until later.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> Can you tell if it's the new revision without taking the back cover off? Can you just look through the vents?
> Monitor arrived today but I don't have time to do much testing until later.


Yeah you can look through the vents and see if its a green pcb. Let us know and damn that was a fast shipping to you


----------



## C70T5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Ergotrons will work just fine, the monitor is lighter than you'd expect, I use the ergotron MX wall mount on two of them and it's overkill (only bought to match my third)
> To answer your actual question it's 100x100 VESA mounting needed to use 3rd party stands/arms


It says it can support upto 9kg. Is that enough or can you please recommend me a good monitor arm that will work?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> It says it can support upto 9kg. Is that enough or can you please recommend me a good monitor arm that will work?


Yup that'll be more than enough, the 27Q with standard white stand weighs exactly 6.5kg (a good amount less without the stand) so use that as your basis and I'll suggest one depending on your budget, however can't go wrong with ergotron if you like the looks of their models be it the wall or desk mounted versions


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yup that'll be more than enough, the 27Q with standard white stand weighs exactly 6.5kg


Mine was weighed at 15Kg at the post office, so I really doubt it's that light.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Mine was weighed at 15Kg at the post office, so I really doubt it's that light.


What the hell 15kg. If something goes wrong it will cost you a arm and a leg to ship it back lol


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> Mine was weighed at 15Kg at the post office, so I really doubt it's that light.


Apple website says both LED Cinema 27 and Thunderbolt displays are 10.8kg each, that's 23.5lbs, I own one and it's much, much, much heavier than these crossovers, 6.5kg and I'm sticking to it as per experience and spec sheet (packaged might have a different weight so that's something I can't say on)


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> What the hell 15kg. If something goes wrong it will cost you a arm and a leg to ship it back lol


It's gonna cost a lot. This is why you should get a squaretrade warranty.
Quote:


> Apple website says both LED Cinema 27 and Thunderbolt displays are 10.8kg each, that's 23.5lbs, I own one and it's much, much, much heavier than these crossovers, 6.5kg and I'm sticking to it as per experience and spec sheet (packaged might have a different weight so that's something I can't say on)


The only other thing in the box was a power brick, which weighs less than a kilogram, so It probably weighs somewhere around 14 kg.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> It's gonna cost a lot. This is why you should get a squaretrade warranty.
> The only other thing in the box was a power brick, which weighs less than a kilogram, so It probably weighs somewhere around 14 kg.


Yeah if i get one i will for sure get a squaretrade warranty. But with the squaretrade warranty the price goes up to £300 that's $483 and something. That's why am not sure if i should just add another £179.12 and get the Asus PB278Q that comes with three year grantee


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> The only other thing in the box was a power brick, which weighs less than a kilogram, so It probably weighs somewhere around 14 kg.


I will grab scale in a day and check for myself lol, don't have one in the house after my move


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Yeah you can look through the vents and see if its a green pcb. Let us know and damn that was a fast shipping to you


At my door 60 hours from the time I hit buy. FedEx is awesome.

Haven't had time to look too closely but there's a green PCB at the center back. Some dead pixels, more than was stated but they're so small I can't notice them during normal operation. No backlight issues. 110v power brick. Overall I'm very happy for $339.

Maybe we could figure out what date the blue PCB stops and the new configuration starts? Mine was made in 09/12.


----------



## C70T5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yup that'll be more than enough, the 27Q with standard white stand weighs exactly 6.5kg (a good amount less without the stand) so use that as your basis and I'll suggest one depending on your budget, however can't go wrong with ergotron if you like the looks of their models be it the wall or desk mounted versions


I need the monitor to come forward and above a music synthesizer which is about 5" high.

Looking at the Ergotron LX it seems to offer a height of 13".... but is that 13" measured from the middle of the VESA mount? In which case the bottom edge of my Crossover will be a few inches lower than that. I want to make sure it clears the height of my synthesizer.

The Ergotron MX supports more weight but it only offers a height of 5" which is not going to be enough by the looks of it.

Budget is not a problem and I will hardly ever move the monitor around once I have it in position - could you possibly recommend me anything other than the Ergotron LX or do you think thats the best bet?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> At my door 60 hours from the time I hit buy. FedEx is awesome.
> Haven't had time to look too closely but there's a green PCB at the center back. Some dead pixels, more than was stated but they're so small I can't notice them during normal operation. No backlight issues. 110v power brick. Overall I'm very happy for $339.
> Maybe we could figure out what date the blue PCB stops and the new configuration starts? Mine was made in 09/12.


That means you have the good pcb since you can see in the middle that has a green pcb


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I need the monitor to come forward and above a music synthesizer which is about 5" high.
> Looking at the Ergotron LX it seems to offer a height of 13".... but is that 13" measured from the middle of the VESA mount? In which case the bottom edge of my Crossover will be a few inches lower than that. I want to make sure it clears the height of my synthesizer.
> The Ergotron MX supports more weight but it only offers a height of 5" which is not going to be enough by the looks of it.
> Budget is not a problem and I will hardly ever move the monitor around once I have it in position - could you possibly recommend me anything other than the Ergotron LX or do you think thats the best bet?


Depends on the desk and/or the wall, below are examples of my ACD with the MX Wall mount full extended up and down:

With the MX wall mount's first pivot point on the wall mounting portion set at 3" above my desk I can get a max height of 8.5" off the desk


With it at its lowest point it'll give just a smidge under 2.5"


So I'd assume with the LX it means from desk to middle of actual mounting plate for the maximum height of 13" so it would be able to clear the synth

The LX desk or wall will give you the most coverage imo, the MX has the looks and seems more solid. Both are the same price about so I'd go with which looks best to you but are you definitely desk mounting or wall mounting? For desk I'd go LX, wall I'd go MX.

Going to gym for an hour or so, leave me a PM if you need to or just reply here, I'll check once I get back


----------



## RazerX

What would you suggest for gaming purposes this or the Asus PB278Q?


----------



## shortyg83

Well the asus has a little better response time. And you may get less ghosting. It also costs twice as much as this.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RazerX*
> 
> What would you suggest for gaming purposes this or the Asus PB278Q?


The Asus PB278Q has surprisingly good response time. it averaged 16.6 ms, and has AMA, so it will probably be better than the Crossover if you are sensitive to display response.
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/asus_pb278q.htm

I have no idea what the response time on the Crossover is like, though.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's one thing i wanted to know since am new to this pc gaming stuff. Do you need 3 monitors for gaming or is one monitor enough. At the moment i have a projector. That's the Optoma HD65 with 3D-XL i use that for my console gaming and movies in 3d and 2d


Why don't try 1 out first and see ??

I upgraded to this using a 1920x1080 23 inch and everything is so much better..... Games are amazing on this display you'll love it.

One thing tho if you are going surround you might need another 670 to sli .... I really don't know if a single card can handle 3 of these bad boys maybe someone else can help you there..


----------



## C70T5

I will desk mount so i understand you recommend the LX in this case?


----------



## shortyg83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> At my door 60 hours from the time I hit buy. FedEx is awesome.
> Haven't had time to look too closely but there's a green PCB at the center back. Some dead pixels, more than was stated but they're so small I can't notice them during normal operation. No backlight issues. 110v power brick. Overall I'm very happy for $339.
> Maybe we could figure out what date the blue PCB stops and the new configuration starts? Mine was made in 09/12.


Did you ever get a tracking number from that seller? I ordered one last night I am not in a rush but he hasn't responded to my mail either.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I will desk mount so i understand you recommend the LX in this case?


Yah the MX seems like a design optimized for wall mounting, it would work on the desk but the LX will best it, the LX is probably easier to position and change should the need arise, that and it isn't as big. The LX gets the vote from me


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> Did you ever get a tracking number from that seller? I ordered one last night I am not in a rush but he hasn't responded to my mail either.


He didn't ship until the following day in my case. Keep in mind the time difference, he has about 6 hours left in his business day.

And to correct what I said earlier, I have some stuck pixels that are not bothersome at all. Only one actual dead pixel that I've seen so far.


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> He didn't ship until the following day in my case. Keep in mind the time difference, he has about 6 hours left in his business day.
> And to correct what I said earlier, I have some stuck pixels that are not bothersome at all. Only one actual dead pixel that I've seen so far.


What PCB did you have?


----------



## amazing235

Hi,

Still working on good news on CrossOver.

Recently I caught some sellers who copied my Korean to English translation of product description and made report to Ebay.
Beside of providing good to best services for customers, I've been busy setting up the remote office in USA (located in California Hoah~)
handling the VERO programme on Ebay and also trying to get more information about Brand registry on Amazon as well.
CS has been more than ever since I've been receiving messages from buyers who purchased their monitors from other sellers who do not provide proper service they ought to do.
I feel very unfortunate and unhappy for those buyers that I could not offer any other services for them in current situation.
But, when AW and CrossOver could get another contract about its customer services for international online market place sales, I may able to provide customer service for buyers who purchase theirs from other sellers. But, Please notice, AW is working very hard to deal with what is best for customers.
Hope we could shake our hands with CrossOver on many things..

The other issue is that,
AW do not provide much discounted price even we sell monitors at higher price compare to other sellers.
I think now people understand and acknowledge about WHY AW has higher price and still receives good recommendations and commentaries from buyers after all.
The price is higher than others because we provide services up to 1 year as we promised.
We've been providing return/refund / replacement services for free of charge within 30days from purchased date.
After the 30 days, we provide the repair services that is guaranteed from Manufacturer and/or we provide components that buyer needs to fix the monitor like power adapter, PCB board and other devices for free.

So, please encourage us for what we do and support us for ever. lol

Recently I received a meesage on Ebay as below:



and here's my reply for that :


Very upset and unpleasant to receive thretening message from potential buyer(s) and I meant that I could stop selling monitors to EU if that matters.
Recently, I am struggling so much on Amaon Europe because of buyers leave negative feedbacks and/or A to Z claims so easily without giving me a time to make explanations and make sure that monitor has to ve returned. It seems like Amazon customers are very rude and not so cooperative to solve problems but requesting money back/replacement.

Please notice that we do not sell monitors that is already broken, damaged or not working.
Why would AW send DOA/ defective monitors to buyers and expect to get complains for return/refund from buyers?
I fully understand that you get upset to receive monitor that is not working properly.
Notice that I am also upset and unhappy as much as you do to receive message about monitor is not working properly.

Most of the time when I get monitors back for its defective, I am really dissapointed to see that monitor functions so well that I cannot understand the claim originally reported to me.
All I ask to you is that,
please read thoroughly on the product descriptions first, if you have questions about product, please contact me, check your PC and graphic card specification and make it sure it is compatible with.
If you unfortuately received your monitor in damaged and not working properly,
1. Try to connect all cables tight and correct
2. Try to connect monitor with different PC to check its condition.
3. Do not treat me as a thief who is holding you money.
4. Contact me at my email or on ebay message, if possilbe in details,
- Purchased date, product name, your ID/name
- PC specification/ Graphic card name - > to check compatibilities
- Include photo/video clip showing monitor malfunctions

That will make return/replacement process faster and shall not wait days after days.

About Green PCB vs Blue PCB,
I recently received a lot of this message,
Blue PCB was placed for May, June and maybe some of the July shipped monitors.
Recent monitors have Green PCB and shall not be worried for its burn out.
So, Please do not disassemble your decent monitors at your door to check for Green PCB.
We do not ask and recommend to open monitor backside to check its color of board unless monitor needs to checked up.
Any damage occured by buyers shall not be considered as a return/refund.

Unfortunate news to share,

Due to the shortage of IPS panel, Yamakasi and Acheiva temporarily stopped its supply to dealers.
and CrossOver is hacing difficulties to producing monitors.
We expected to have lower price offered from Manufacturer for its holiday season, but Manufacturer is considering rasing its price up instead of down.

Let's see what AW could make things changed..

Chao.


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> What PCB did you have?


New revision, green pcb.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's i just bought one. Can some one let me know if this is possible. Am waiting for my replacement from evga. My card is still in germany now and they still have not received it. So am without a graphics card and was wandering if i can hook up the dvi socket from my motherboard back panel to the crossover 27q led-p. Will this work at all for normal use until i get my replacement back


----------



## shortyg83

Yes it will work but you will not get full resolution.
Onboard video cards do not support dual link dvi.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> Yes it will work but you will not get full resolution.
> Onboard video cards do not support dual link dvi.


You will get no signal, you need to have a dual link DVI to get one. I did try it with an intel motherboard graphics.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's i just bought one. Can some one let me know if this is possible. Am waiting for my replacement from evga. My card is still in germany now and they still have not received it. So am without a graphics card and was wandering if i can hook up the dvi socket from my motherboard back panel to the crossover 27q led-p. Will this work at all for normal use until i get my replacement back


Honestly don't think it wont work. You can still try doesn't hurt to do so. You would prob need a dedicated GPU that comes from AMD or NVIDIA and the series specified from the sellers.


----------



## BimWim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Anyone have bigclothcraft provide support with back light failures?
> Bought mine in June and it failed during the first week in October.
> We exchanged a few emails but its been a week with no response.


Seller is now promising to send me a board next week. We shall see.


----------



## Koehler

Can someone confirm if all CrossOver models are glossy panels? How about the Yamakasi, Overlord Tempest and Shimian variants?

Also not sure if this has been answered, but does Overlord Tempest use LG panels?


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's i just bought one. Can some one let me know if this is possible. Am waiting for my replacement from evga. My card is still in germany now and they still have not received it. So am without a graphics card and was wandering if i can hook up the dvi socket from my motherboard back panel to the crossover 27q led-p. Will this work at all for normal use until i get my replacement back


You could see if you can find the cheapest dedicated card available that supports DL DVI. The Geforce 210 does, AFAIK.
Quote:


> Can someone confirm if all CrossOver models are glossy panels? How about the Yamakasi, Overlord Tempest and Shimian variants?
> 
> Also not sure if this has been answered, but does Overlord Tempest use LG panels?


Some of them have a tempered glass panel, all others are glossy, as far as I know.


----------



## RazerX

EDIT


----------



## C70T5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yah the MX seems like a design optimized for wall mounting, it would work on the desk but the LX will best it, the LX is probably easier to position and change should the need arise, that and it isn't as big. The LX gets the vote from me


Brilliant I'll order it today. Thanks for your help Azefore.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Brilliant I'll order it today. Thanks for your help Azefore.


Np, hope all turns out well


----------



## FlyingSolo

Thanks guy's for letting me know. Looks like evga received my card. But on my tracking it says it has reached the destination country. But on my evga account it says they have received it. So it looks like i might get the card on time or a day or two later


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Can someone confirm if all CrossOver models are glossy panels? How about the Yamakasi, Overlord Tempest and Shimian variants?
> Also not i if this has been answered, but does Overlord Tempest use LG panels?


1. If you want a matte screen, ask the sellers directly if they can get you one, I've seen a few for sale 1 or 2 at a time. I think someone in this thread did contact a seller and got one that way, I'd start with AW.
2. Yes, same as the others but grade A instead of A-.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> 1. Ask the sellers directly if they can get you one, I've seen a few for sale 1 or 2 at a time. I think someone in this thread did contact a seller and got one that way, I'd start with AW.
> *2. Yes, same as the others but grade A instead of A-*.


Proof? What is the difference between grade A and A-? Does Overlord Tempest directly order commercial-grade LG panels?


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Proof? What is the difference between grade A and A-? Does Overlord Tempest directly order commercial-grade LG panels?


Their claim, not mine, though the buyers I've heard from seem satisfied. They have more info on their forum.


----------



## FlyingSolo

I for one think all these displays apart from apple,dell.hp are all A- most likely some sellers say they are just A but i don't think so. If it was A then these displays are the ones apple,dell,hp took. But since we now have the same korean display which apple,dell,hp didn't take they are now called A- hence why we call the apple,dell,hp displays A+ but if there where no korean display we would have just called the apple,dell,hp displays only A display rather then A+ well that's what i think anyway


----------



## shortyg83

Well actually from my understanding the rating A+ A A- are the way LG rates the batch that the monitors came from.
They would test a batch of monitors and depending how they faired they would get one of the ratings. A+ is what the other companies are mainly buying and maybe some A. Then to be able to reap some benefit from the other batches LG sold them to other companies. It doesn't tech mean your monitor isn't A+ it would mean the batch it came from was rated lower.

Also I can't verify this is true. But for the past month I have read about these monitors on tons of different websites. And most of them had something along the lines of what is above.


----------



## marcusfrenkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> 1. If you want a matte screen, ask the sellers directly if they can get you one, I've seen a few for sale 1 or 2 at a time. I think someone in this thread did contact a seller and got one that way, I'd start with AW...


If someone has CrossOver with matte screen please share something about it's quality. Is it aggressive as on Dell U2711 or is it semi glossy like on Dell U2713HM or Samsung S27A850D?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcusfrenkel*
> 
> If someone has CrossOver with matte screen please share something about it's quality. Is it aggressive as on Dell U2711 or is it semi glossy like on Dell U2713HM or Samsung S27A850D?


I don't think any of the korean display has a matte screen. Well i can be wrong tho but i have not seen any


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> I don't think any of the korean display has a matte screen. Well i can be wrong tho but i have not seen any


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-Non-Glossy-FIRST-FSM-270YG-S-IPS-27-Computer-Monitor-2560-x-1440-/221147064025?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337d6466d9

From what I understand, every once in a while there will be a few matte screens mixed in with an order of panels. Overlord had one, they said it was just a light AG coating, not like the Dells.

If you want a specific brand in matte, just ask around, maybe somebody has one.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-Non-Glossy-FIRST-FSM-270YG-S-IPS-27-Computer-Monitor-2560-x-1440-/221147064025?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337d6466d9
> From what I understand, every once in a while there will be a few matte screens mixed in with an order of panels. Overlord had one, they said it was just a light AG coating, not like the Dells.
> If you want a specific brand in matte, just ask around, maybe somebody has one.


Thanks for giving me the link. How are you liking your new monitor


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for giving me the link. How are you liking your new monitor


Can't imagine how I ever lived without it, coming from a 22 inch 1080p. The Crossover is easily worth the extra cash.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> Can't imagine how I ever lived without it, coming from a 22 inch 1080p. The Crossover is easily worth the extra cash.


Thanks for letting me know. I have been gaming on a old 23inch 720p hdtv. And a 720p 3d projector that i will be upgrading next year to a 1080p or if i can find a cheap 4k projector by then lol. And in my living room it has a 1080p hdtv. Looks like i will be blown away once i get it. Still no reply from my seller bcc tho who i bought it from and sent two messages. Just waiting for his reply. If his checking them or when he will send it


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's need some advice hear. For one 1440p display for gaming is one evga gtx 670 ftw 4gb enough or do i need to buy another one


----------



## Gloomfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's need some advice hear. For one 1440p display for gaming is one evga gtx 670 ftw 4gb enough or do i need to buy another one


One is enough. I have a 670 is my setup, everything runs smooth. BF3 runs around 45-65fps on the Conquest Large levels (matching the 680 benchmarks), that's if it's fully maxed. You can probably turn down some AA (as you have 1440p to your advantage) to increase rates without any visual quality drop.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> One is enough. I have a 670 is my setup, everything runs smooth. BF3 runs around 45-65fps on the Conquest Large levels (matching the 680 benchmarks), that's if it's fully maxed. You can probably turn down some AA (as you have 1440p to your advantage) to increase rates without any visual quality drop.


This, the FPS will vary from map to map, on 2gb ftw model I used to use I would dip to 48 without AA. For everything else (save Metro 2033) out atm you'll have no problem running.


----------



## Layo

How long would this monitor last?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> How long would this monitor last?


Layo, I see your posts all around OCN!









Still undecided









Nobody can't tell how long they will last since they are less than a year old. But I am almost 100% sure it will last as long as any other panels since they have LG panels just like any other brands (and popular brands).

I bought 3 x CrossOver for around *1200*$ . Its almst the same price as a single Dell U2711.


----------



## Layo

Because I'm deciding between Crossover/Shimain or Dell U2713HM but I don't know... with the dumb taxes and other crap I get on the crossover in this pathetic country It will get over $600 and the Dell dropped to $720 2 days ago...


----------



## Hallengreen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Set all monitors to max brightness then click it down 6 times. That's how I have it.
> How do you like the profile, major difference right?


Hey Cloud!
After I got it working with your profile. Wow! Added some more red to my screen (don't know if it was missing or not) but what a difference!
I don't know if it should look like it does now, but seems perfect!
But i'm gonna check some other profiles, once I get home again. (monday)


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I bought 3 x CrossOver for around *1200*$ . Its almst the same price as a single Dell U2711.


I remember finding a U2711 for $800 on Newegg a couple months ago. They're not that expensive.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Art Vanelay*
> 
> I remember finding a U2711 for $800 on Newegg a couple months ago. They're not that expensive.


Ok then

Triple CrossOver = *1200$*

Triple U2711 = *2400$*

I hope you get my point?

And at 800$ it was a great discount. And its probably 800$ before taxe, shpping and etc

.


----------



## marcusfrenkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Hi,
> Still working on good news on CrossOver.
> Recently I caught some sellers who copied my Korean to English translation of product description and made report to Ebay...


Can you please confirm that the Brightness of 420 cd2/m for CrossOver 27Q given in the specs on your ebay store is a mistake. Links:
1) CrossOver 27Q LED
2) CrossOver 27Q-P LED

Both models on http://crosslcd.co.kr are listed with 380 cd2/m.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Ok then
> Triple CrossOver = *1200$*
> Triple U2711 = *2400$*
> I hope you get my point?
> And at 800$ it was a great discount. And its probably 800$ before taxe, shpping and etc
> .


I get your point, but it's not like that was an amazing deal (this one went down to $700, if you clicked this after the sale ended).
You also have customs fees and the squaretrade warranty or possible cost of shipping back to korea in case of a failure with the Crossovers. It's still a good deal, but monitors made by Dell and Asus are still pretty good considering their benefits.


----------



## KaRLiToS

No custom Fees. He marked the package as a gift.

1200$ shipped straight to my doors (but the mail woman was too lazy to bring it to my door so I had to get them at the post office)









And, if the Dell u2711 were 600$ or so, I would have probably got them instead, but its not the case. i'm pretty happy with the CrossOvers. No negative comment after 8 months.


----------



## Azefore

Not sure why there's a debate between these. Just buy what you want lol


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> One is enough. I have a 670 is my setup, everything runs smooth. BF3 runs around 45-65fps on the Conquest Large levels (matching the 680 benchmarks), that's if it's fully maxed. You can probably turn down some AA (as you have 1440p to your advantage) to increase rates without any visual quality drop.


Thanks for letting me know


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hallengreen*
> 
> Hey Cloud!
> After I got it working with your profile. Wow! Added some more red to my screen (don't know if it was missing or not) but what a difference!
> I don't know if it should look like it does now, but seems perfect!
> But i'm gonna check some other profiles, once I get home again. (monday)


I'm glad you like it. It's more natural colors while still being bright and near perfect on colors. If you looked I had the Thunderbolt Profile calibrated. If you compare the difference its worlds apart. The thing is the Thunderbolt profile is as close as you'll get to what they use as the default profile. So seeing the vibrant color's from the 6500k 2.2 gamma calibrated profile is how it's suppose to look. I also tested Samsung S27B970D calibrated profile and it's very similar to thunderbolts. Just slightly brighter. So thunderbolts and Series 9 S27B970D are brighter in all aspects but don't have any depth or natural hue that your supposed to get. Again I urge anyone to do a nice comparison. Find my posts a few pages back on the review and go to the ICC profile section. You'll be glad you did.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> I'm glad you like it. It's more natural colors while still being bright and near perfect on colors. If you looked I had the Thunderbolt Profile calibrated. If you compare the difference its worlds apart. The thing is the Thunderbolt profile is as close as you'll get to what they use as the default profile. So seeing the vibrant color's from the 6500k 2.2 gamma calibrated profile is how it's suppose to look. I also tested Samsung S27B970D calibrated profile and it's very similar to thunderbolts. Just slightly brighter. So thunderbolts and Series 9 S27B970D are brighter in all aspects but don't have any depth or natural hue that your supposed to get. Again I urge anyone to do a nice comparison. Find my posts a few pages back on the review and go to the ICC profile section. You'll be glad you did.


Would the profile work for the 2720? Any one tried it?


----------



## Layo

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Just wondering, why does it say 1080p on the box?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Would the profile work for the 2720? Any one tried it?


It's an ICC profile. It works for any of the models whether it's crossver, shimian, catleap.
Gotta remember there all using the same panel so nothing is different. The profile works across the board.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering, why does it say 1080p on the box?


Just letting you know its 1080p capable that's all. Just hope your using it for 1440p though.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Just letting you know its 1080p capable that's all. Just hope your using it for 1440p though.


Well, that's missleading. Why wouldn't 1440p monitor be capable of 1080p?


----------



## trada101

I just bought this monitor and I just want to say AssessoriesWhole is top notch. They are definitely one of the best sellers on the inter webs. I hope they are around for a long time.

Before I start I just want to say that I bought a Crossover 27Q model with the fixed stand. It is in almost perfect condition.

*Now for the feedback:*
I hope this feedback can be sent back to the manufacturer because it will make the monitor absolutely perfect.

The one flaw this monitor has is the brightness control.

It has about 17 levels or steps of brightness ranging from _Blinding Bright_ to _Bright_.

I understand that most people that are buying this monitor will be using it for games and movies so they will want it bright.

However, I am using it for productivity and financial applications and frequently the windows contain white background with tiny black/grey text.

Even at the lowest brightness setting it is too bright to look at for lengthy periods of time unless you are in a bright room with sunlight. *That is a serious flaw in a monitor.*

My suggestion is to redo the 17 level/steps to be meaningful. The lowest brightness setting should be very dim. For example, the lowest brightness setting is equivalent to my Samsung F2380 at 88% brightness. You read that right, EIGHTY-EIGHT! That is just too bright to look at in a dim room for lengthy periods of time.

I would suggestion resetting the brightness so the monitor can become very dim like all other normal monitors.

It would also be great if a fix could be developed for current monitors. I don't mind opening up mine to replace some parts, I'd be happy to pay a little to fix this problem. And I would buy more monitors









I hope my feedback gets back to the factory so they can fix this problem with this otherwise great monitor.


----------



## marcusfrenkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Hi,
> Still working on good news on CrossOver.
> Recently I caught some sellers who copied my Korean to English translation of product description and made report to Ebay...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *marcusfrenkel*
> 
> Can you please confirm that the Brightness of 420 cd/m2 for CrossOver 27Q given in the specs on your ebay store is a mistake. Links:
> 1) CrossOver 27Q LED
> 2) CrossOver 27Q-P LED
> Both models on http://crosslcd.co.kr are listed with 380 cd/m2.
Click to expand...

To explain my point better, the image below contains the original page for CrossOver 27Q LED taken from http://crosslcd.co.kr and it's translation on the AW store on ebay. The value of 420 cd/m2 is repeated in many places on the ad.


----------



## Hallengreen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> I'm glad you like it. It's more natural colors while still being bright and near perfect on colors. If you looked I had the Thunderbolt Profile calibrated. If you compare the difference its worlds apart. The thing is the Thunderbolt profile is as close as you'll get to what they use as the default profile. So seeing the vibrant color's from the 6500k 2.2 gamma calibrated profile is how it's suppose to look. I also tested Samsung S27B970D calibrated profile and it's very similar to thunderbolts. Just slightly brighter. So thunderbolts and Series 9 S27B970D are brighter in all aspects but don't have any depth or natural hue that your supposed to get. Again I urge anyone to do a nice comparison. Find my posts a few pages back on the review and go to the ICC profile section. You'll be glad you did.


I got to try the Apple profile, others icc profiles in this thread & some from the profile site (can't remember the name lol.







)
Must say, there was a huge diffrence, between yours and others, what came near it was the apple and one there was calibrated in the Yamasaki screen thread, only those was a little brighter and had more a yellow tint, than yours.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Well, that's missleading. Why wouldn't 1440p monitor be capable of 1080p?


Well only reason they market it is because 1080p is mainstream. You tell someone 1440p outside of the PC community there gonna be like ***. Remember these monitors cater to everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trada101*
> 
> I just bought this monitor and I just want to say AssessoriesWhole is top notch. They are definitely one of the best sellers on the inter webs. I hope they are around for a long time.
> Before I start I just want to say that I bought a Crossover 27Q model with the fixed stand. It is in almost perfect condition.
> *Now for the feedback:*
> I hope this feedback can be sent back to the manufacturer because it will make the monitor absolutely perfect.
> The one flaw this monitor has is the brightness control.
> It has about 17 levels or steps of brightness ranging from _Blinding Bright_ to _Bright_.
> I understand that most people that are buying this monitor will be using it for games and movies so they will want it bright.
> However, I am using it for productivity and financial applications and frequently the windows contain white background with tiny black/grey text.
> Even at the lowest brightness setting it is too bright to look at for lengthy periods of time unless you are in a bright room with sunlight. *That is a serious flaw in a monitor.*
> My suggestion is to redo the 17 level/steps to be meaningful. The lowest brightness setting should be very dim. For example, the lowest brightness setting is equivalent to my Samsung F2380 at 88% brightness. You read that right, EIGHTY-EIGHT! That is just too bright to look at in a dim room for lengthy periods of time.
> I would suggestion resetting the brightness so the monitor can become very dim like all other normal monitors.
> It would also be great if a fix could be developed for current monitors. I don't mind opening up mine to replace some parts, I'd be happy to pay a little to fix this problem. And I would buy more monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope my feedback gets back to the factory so they can fix this problem with this otherwise great monitor.


For your brightness issue it really has to also do the the Color Profile associated with your monitors. I recommend trying out my profile and you'll probably see a decrease in brightness and a more perfect color tone. Alot of people hacve alrdy been using the profile. Please scroll back and find my posts and check out my review of the CrossOver and head towards the ICC Profile Section. Hope it helps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hallengreen*
> 
> I got to try the Apple profile, others icc profiles in this thread & some from the profile site (can't remember the name lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Must say, there was a huge diffrence, between yours and others, what came near it was the apple and one there was calibrated in the Yamasaki screen thread, only those was a little brighter and had more a yellow tint, than yours.


Glad you enjoyed it. Try to get the word out and send people to my review. So they can see how the CrossOver's look and use the extras that I added.


----------



## Layo

Ok, right. The 1080p could also be usefull when some employee opens the box to count the tax, with 1440p and basic knowledge they would probably value it at $800+ right away.


----------



## doe3879

1080p with PS3?
is it possible?

I can only get 720p displaying, and only show black screen on 1080p


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doe3879*
> 
> 1080p with PS3?
> is it possible?
> I can only get 720p displaying, and only show black screen on 1080p


Depends on which game you are playing, Usually, its written on the back cover of the PS3 games.

My Blu-Ray Movies play at 1080p with the Ps3.


Spoiler: Other Example!


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> For your brightness issue it really has to also do the the Color Profile associated with your monitors. I recommend trying out my profile and you'll probably see a decrease in brightness and a more perfect color tone. Alot of people hacve alrdy been using the profile. Please scroll back and find my posts and check out my review of the CrossOver and head towards the ICC Profile Section. Hope it helps.
> Glad you enjoyed it. Try to get the word out and send people to my review. So they can see how the CrossOver's look and use the extras that I added.


It's a lot different than the profile in the 1st post of this thread.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Swapping PCBs in this monitor is pretty trivial. The back panel is just held on but about a dozen screws and can be easily removed to access the PCBs. There are 3 total, one which has the power buttons and brightness control inputs, one that controls the LED brightness and is connected to the LCD LEDs, and the primary PCB which is connected to everything and has the DVI and power inputs on it.
> Reading over your post, I would guess its an issue with the main PCB, not the LED PCB that everyone here is replacing and dealing with. While I haven't personally replaced mine, I don't think it'd be any more difficult. Just know though that all the people doing PCB replacements are doing it on the daughterboard PCB that controls the LED, not the motherboard PCB which I'd suspect is the source of your problems.


Sorry to reply on a 4 weeks old post.

In the meantime i picked up the crossover from post 18306146 from my friend.
I tried it with several pc's, several videocards, with the power supply of my yamakasi, with my dvi-d cable that i use on my yamakasi...none of it makes much difference yet, screen is just all red lines, from the moment the pc boots(bios) until it shuts down.

Who is the best to contact to buy seperate pcb boards from?


----------



## Kuad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> I want to buy a Monitor Arm stand to attach to my Crossover 27Q so I can move the screen about back and forth. Can anyone please tell me what VESA mount I need to buy? Would something like this be ok:
> 
> http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/4-/30302066/Ergotron-45-241-026-Mounting-Arm-for-Flat-Panel-Display-61-cm-Screen-Support-9-07-kg-Load-Capacity/Product.html?_%24ja=tsid:11518|cat:30302066|prd:30302066


I tried a triple monitor mount with a listed 9kg/panel capacity, and it left my monitors pointing at the floor, as the spring to hold them vertical was not strong enough to keep my crossovers pointing forward. I haven't disassembled one again to get a weight measurement on them, but I would not be confident about a 9kg max capacity arm being able to handle a crossover well.


----------



## Art Vanelay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> I tried a triple monitor mount with a listed 9kg/panel capacity, and it left my monitors pointing at the floor, as the spring to hold them vertical was not strong enough to keep my crossovers pointing forward. I haven't disassembled one again to get a weight measurement on them, but I would not be confident about a 9kg max capacity arm being able to handle a crossover well.


I got a >15kg measurement when trying to ship the monitor and power brick, so I think it's safe to say that the monitor is at least 12 Kg.


----------



## Azefore

Face palm, and face palm again, no one wants to believe me

http://www.amazon.com/MX-Wall-Mount-LCD-Arm/dp/B0028407WW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1352073331&sr=8-2&keywords=mx+arm
"The sleek MX LCD Arm accommodates mid-sized displays and all-in-one computers weighing up to 30 lbs. (13.6 kgs)"

I use this on my apple cinema display, the torque adjustment isn't even maxed (around 80%) out and you can darn well bet that the Apple's heavier @ 23.5lbs or *10.8KG*
The torque adjustments on my other two MX wall mounts used with my two crossovers on this are just about half maxed.








http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC007LL/A/apple-led-cinema-display-(27%22-flat-panel)?fnode=53


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> For your brightness issue it really has to also do the the Color Profile associated with your monitors. I recommend trying out my profile and you'll probably see a decrease in brightness and a more perfect color tone. Alot of people hacve alrdy been using the profile. Please scroll back and find my posts and check out my review of the CrossOver and head towards the ICC Profile Section. Hope it helps.


I have tried calibrating the color profile, it helps at the margins but doesn't really address the main issue, which is that the settings don't go low enough.

I've read your review, must be nice with 3 giant monitors









The other thing is, even if calibrating the color profile worked 100% in replacing the brightness setting it still doesn't affect the power draw. No matter what the color setting, it stays around 44w/hr (39w/hr dark screen) at the lowest setting and a whopping 77w/hr at max brightness. I feel this monitor could easily go down to the low 30w/hr range if they fixed this issue, which would be a nice little bonus in terms of less heat output.

I'm a programmer so I use a lot of black text on white backgrounds so I'm especially sensitive to this issue. And I know it's probably a real easy fix for them to reprogram their monitors ( at least the months not made yet). They just need to do it.

Here's a picture showing my CrossOver at the lowest brightness setting next to my other monitor at 90% brightness (I also have 2 other monitors that I've compared with). Actual light output is similar with slight differences in color :


----------



## JustinZ

I just received my 2730MD (Ordered from BCC)

no Dead Pixels, but it does have some bad backlight leakage:

take a look:









Has anybody tried to fix the backlight uniformity and bleeding?
Is it worth cracking the enclosure open to try and fix?


----------



## Remix65

i have plenty of desk and wall mounts. i wouldnt recommend wall mounts. my walls at one time looked like i went tony montana on them.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> i have plenty of desk and wall mounts. i wouldnt recommend wall mounts. my walls at one time looked like i went tony montana on them.


Its a commitment I'll admit lol with 3 myself


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Its a commitment I'll admit lol with 3 myself


with me i just cant seem to make up my mind. i change my setup every month.


----------



## doe3879

I mean using Crossover 27Q with PS3 1080p in general.
When I select display output with the PS3. Only 720p works.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doe3879*
> 
> I mean using Crossover 27Q with PS3 1080p in general.
> When I select display output with the PS3. Only 720p works.


I believe it's because these guys don't have built in scalers, not sure if that's the culprit but it's what comes to mind.


----------



## Layo

Still can't decide if I should order Crossover for $500+ or just buy Dell U2713HM for $720 with 3 year warranty and the "perfect panel and everything" or the HP something for $780
Wanting to use it for longest time possible, i think 5 years+, 8-10 hours a day


----------



## marcusfrenkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Still can't decide if I should order Crossover for $500+ or just buy Dell U2713HM for $720 with 3 year warranty and the "perfect panel and everything" or the HP something for $780
> Wanting to use it for longest time possible, i think 5 years+, 8-10 hours a day


Well that also comes done to the decision whether to go with glossy or matte screen. Dell U2713HM is matte (anti-glare). Image is clearer on glossy but then the reflections may bother you.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcusfrenkel*
> 
> Well that also comes done to the decision whether to go with glossy or matte screen. Dell U2713HM is matte (anti-glare). Image is clearer on glossy but then the reflections may bother you.


How bad is 8ms (dell) or 12ms (hp)? What about 25ms input lag? Can you somehow compare it with my 21,5' TN LG Flatron e2240s with 15+ dead pixels and big scratch in the middle?


----------



## marcusfrenkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> How bad is 8ms (dell) or 12ms (hp)? What about 25ms input lag? Can you somehow compare it with my 21,5' TN LG Flatron e2240s with 15+ dead pixels and big scratch in the middle?


Can't really tell. For me the input lag is not important since my main focus is coding and other text based work. Gamers can debate more on that.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Still can't decide if I should order Crossover for $500+ or just buy Dell U2713HM for $720 with 3 year warranty and the "perfect panel and everything" or the HP something for $780
> Wanting to use it for longest time possible, i think 5 years+, 8-10 hours a day


Someone on the 1440p and above gaming club had purchased the U2713HM and returned it do the visible cross-hatching visible on the screen. I'm unsure if they've fixed it or changed since but just a factor to consider possibly


----------



## marcusfrenkel

Does CrossOver work on Linux, say on Kubuntu? Any driver issues?


----------



## marcusfrenkel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcusfrenkel*
> 
> Does CrossOver work on Linux, say on Kubuntu? Any driver issues?


OK I found this thread which answers my question:
http://www.overclock.net/a/sound-quieter-in-linux-than-windows-2560x1440-27-korean-display-not-working-the-problems-i-encountered-and-their-solution


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Still can't decide if I should order Crossover for $500+ or just buy Dell U2713HM for $720 with 3 year warranty and the "perfect panel and everything" or the HP something for $780
> Wanting to use it for longest time possible, i think 5 years+, 8-10 hours a day


Get the Dell. The difference isn't too much for peace of mind and A+ grade quality.

Now if you were getting the really cheap panels (27q, p ) like I did and will do mostly gaming or watching videos then get the CrossOver.

Also note:
The Dell is much lighter (less than 15lbs) while the CrossOver will be almost twice that.
The Dell consumes power in the mid 20whr range while the CrossOver (due to it's lack of brightness) goobles up in the mid 40whr range.
And finally my biggest gripe, you can completely control the brightness of the Dell.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trada101*
> 
> Get the Dell. The difference isn't too much for peace of mind and A+ grade quality.
> Now if you were getting the really cheap panels (27q, p ) like I did and will do mostly gaming or watching videos then get the CrossOver.
> Also note:
> The Dell is much lighter (less than 15lbs) while the CrossOver will be almost twice that.
> The Dell consumes power in the mid 20whr range while the CrossOver (due to it's lack of brightness) goobles up in the mid 40whr range.
> And finally my biggest gripe, you can completely control the brightness of the Dell.


How big is the difference in input lag and latency between Dell and CrossOver? Saw that dell has 8ms and around 25ms input latency. I'm 30% gaming, 30% internet, 30% movies/serials
I don't mind A or maybe A- panel (using TN panel with over 20 dead pixels and very long scratch for around 6 months), I mostly care about the delay and how long does the monitor last.


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcusfrenkel*
> 
> Can't really tell. For me the input lag is not important since my main focus is coding and other text based work. Gamers can debate more on that.


I would highly recommend you set your current monitor to 90% brightness and see if that's acceptable for you to work with over long periods because that's the lowest you're going to be able to get the CrossOver.


----------



## Elsinore

I still love my Crossover 27q, but my Crossover 2720mdp finally flickered out and went dark. It only briefly flashes the input screen now when the input is selected. Here's the video of its final seconds:






Seems the MOSFET on the blue PCB is burnt out. I'm hoping Red-Cap can send me a green one.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Has anyone got there display shipped with UPS if so do they collect custom charge at the door or do you need to rig them up to pay am in the uk


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Has anyone got there display shipped with UPS if so do they collect custom charge at the door or do you need to rig them up to pay am in the uk


They collect at the door and they accept credit card, money order, or certified cheques only. No cash.

Seems like the delivery man will just write down your credit card details and charge you when he gets back to base. If you don't want to give out your CC details to the delivery man, you should probably just call UPS and ask how much they're charging you.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> They collect at the door and they accept credit card, money order, or certified cheques only. No cash.
> Seems like the delivery man will just write down your credit card details and charge you when he gets back to base. If you don't want to give out your CC details to the delivery man, you should probably just call UPS and ask how much they're charging you.


Thanks. It just been shipped today. So i wanted to be sure how UPS works


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trada101*
> 
> Get the Dell. The difference isn't too much for peace of mind and A+ grade quality.
> Now if you were getting the really cheap panels (27q, p ) like I did and will do mostly gaming or watching videos then get the CrossOver.
> Also note:
> The Dell is much lighter (less than 15lbs) while the CrossOver will be almost twice that.
> The Dell consumes power in the mid 20whr range while the CrossOver (due to it's lack of brightness) goobles up in the mid 40whr range.
> And finally my biggest gripe, you can completely control the brightness of the Dell.


Lol.

The Dell has a terrible AG coating which will ruin the image quality.

Better stick with Yamakasi.


----------



## kn0x-

Hi.

Can anyone give an answer to if the Crossover 2720MDP will work with the new Mac Mini, that only has the option of Intel HD4000 and no discrete graphics?
I was thinking of connecting it via Mini DisplayPort => DisplayPort.

Could the 27Q run on this setup aswell ? Connected via Mini DisplayPort => Dual Link DVI ?

Hope someone can give an answer to this, thank you


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kn0x-*
> 
> Hi.
> Can anyone give an answer to if the Crossover 2720MDP will work with the new Mac Mini, that only has the option of Intel HD4000 and no discrete graphics?
> I was thinking of connecting it via Mini DisplayPort => DisplayPort.
> Could the 27Q run on this setup aswell ? Connected via Mini DisplayPort => Dual Link DVI ?
> Hope someone can give an answer to this, thank you


Yup once you get the right adapter for the mini display port anything up to 2560x1600 will be able to be ran off the HD4000.

Keep in mind both cable adapters will run you about the same sub ~$10 range, don't need any active DVI converters

For MDP->DP: Cable 1

For MDP->DVI-D: Adapter 1


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Lol.
> The Dell has a terrible AG coating which will ruin the image quality.
> Better stick with Yamakasi.


He did say productivity... so Dell. The U2711 is still around and better imho even with the dated technology like the usb 2.0 ports.

I also like the Samsung S27A850D but it's usually a bit more expensive.


----------



## kn0x-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yup once you get the right adapter for the mini display port anything up to 2560x1600 will be able to be ran off the HD4000.
> Keep in mind both cable adapters will run you about the same sub ~$10 range, don't need any active DVI converters
> For MDP->DP: Cable 1
> For MDP->DVI-D: Adapter 1


Are you sure that MDP => DVI-D will be able to transmit a 2560x1600 resolution ?

Thanks for your reply


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kn0x-*
> 
> Are you sure that MDP => DVI-D will be able to transmit a 2560x1600 resolution ?
> Thanks for your reply


It might not actually, would be my mistake, in that case one of those overly priced active mdp to DVI-D adapters is in place for that second link $65 and up


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's a few pages back someone was talking about how UPS charge more for customs charge etc is this true. At the moment i put $120 value and worked out that i will be charged from custom hear in UK £15 that's $24 dollar in USA now will UPS add more charge or is it that i only give this fee


----------



## FlyingSolo

Mine has been shipped and on UPS tracking it says

A UPS shipping label has been created. Once the shipment arrives at our facility, the tracking status--including the scheduled delivery date--will be updated.

it's already been 1 day and few hours and still no update info. Where as evga post my replacement card from germany with UPS and it said the same thing but after 1 hour the info was updated and i can track where it was etc

Update: Looks like now i can see the info


----------



## FlyingSolo

Looks like UPS tracking was updated and its all ready in uk. What the hell plus it also says Released by clearing agency Now in-transit for delivery


----------



## FlyingSolo

This is strange as hell what is going on hear

ive been tracking the UPS tracker page and it returns this:

Incheon, Korea, Republic of 07/11/2012 19:25 Export Scan

Seoul, Korea, Republic of 07/11/2012 18:50 Departure Scan

Stansted, United Kingdom 07/11/2012 9:25 Released by clearing agency Now in-transit for delivery

Seoul, Korea, Republic of 07/11/2012 16:45 Origin Scan

07/11/2012 10:40 Collection Scan

Korea, Republic of 06/11/2012 4:24 Order Processed: Ready for UPS


----------



## dafoomie

All times are local time, it doesn't adjust for the time difference, the international date line, etc.


----------



## nekonet

I'm Thinking on buying one right now, should I go with perfect pixel? or is it not worth it?


----------



## anmolkapoor

I bought a pixel perfect 2720MDP from Accessories Whole and mine had zero dead pixels and no bleed whatsoever. Having used an iMac for about a year, I can vouch for the fact that the screen is very much comparable, if not better. I personally think it is well worth it.


----------



## nekonet

can the 2720MDP GOLD DisplayPort input do 1440p on a GTX 680?


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekonet*
> 
> can the 2720MDP GOLD DisplayPort input do 1440p on a GTX 680?


yes it can. the 680 should be able to handle 2 of these monitors. one on the dual dvi link and the other on the display port. the 7970 can handle 3 of these because it has 2 mini dp ports and one dual link dvi.


----------



## nekonet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> yes it can. the 680 should be able to handle 2 of these monitors. one on the dual dvi link and the other on the display port. the 7970 can handle 3 of these because it has 2 mini dp ports and one dual link dvi.


Well the 680 has 2 DVI-D, I plan on getting three 1440p monitors and run them off a single card, Instead of buying the active DisplayPort to DVI-D which is expensive.


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekonet*
> 
> Well the 680 has 2 DVI-D, I plan on getting three 1440p monitors and run them off a single card, Instead of buying the active DisplayPort to DVI-D which is expensive.


_Standard Display Connectors: One Dual Link DVI-I, One Dual Link DVI-D, One HDMI, One DisplayPort_


----------



## Azefore

Yup you'll need sli for three 1440p/1600p.


----------



## Elsinore

Red-cap wants $20 to ship a replacement green pcb. Is that standard?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> This is strange as hell what is going on hear
> ive been tracking the UPS tracker page and it returns this:
> Incheon, Korea, Republic of 07/11/2012 19:25 Export Scan
> Seoul, Korea, Republic of 07/11/2012 18:50 Departure Scan
> Stansted, United Kingdom 07/11/2012 9:25 Released by clearing agency Now in-transit for delivery
> Seoul, Korea, Republic of 07/11/2012 16:45 Origin Scan
> 07/11/2012 10:40 Collection Scan
> Korea, Republic of 06/11/2012 4:24 Order Processed: Ready for UPS


It's fine all times are for designated areas and the UK is just paper work being cleared. I had the same thing when ordering my monitors.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elsinore*
> 
> Red-cap wants $20 to ship a replacement green pcb. Is that standard?


No its no acceptable. There is a warranty between these sellers up to 1 year at most depending. If you are passed your 1 year then he has the right to charge you. If not he is responsible for helping you especially if his ad/service dictates the 1 year warranty. If it doesn't say a warranty on his ad then your out of luck. So if your in the 1 year warranty, he has no right to charge you. He needs to fix the problem or replace it. If he doesn't, submit ebay/paypal complaint for a refund and also let the other members here know how he operates his business so he doesn't get more buyers.

-edit-
Just looked over at Red-Caps ebay ads. He does offer 1 year warranty. So to be honest he either replaces the board, entire unit or ask for a refund and file the complaints via ebay/paypal if he doesn't comply. But I do suggest giving Red-Cap a chance to explain if it still goes against then just refund and get a monitor from a more reputable seller. I do recommend AccessoriesWhole.


----------



## johnwillyums

Hi all,
I've been following this thread for a while now and finally pushed the button on a 2720MDP GOLD LED on the 31st of October and AccessoriesWhole delivered to my work place on Monday 5th November. Pretty good considering there was a weekend in between
I wasn't at work on Monday, so it was last night before I could set it up. Everything seemed fine last night. I ran some stuck pixel software and I don't seem to have any!
This morning I logged on before going to work, and was distressed to see that I had a repeating flicker every few seconds. Tonight I have replaced the power lead plus UK plug adapter with a regular pc power lead I had lying around. This seems to have sorted the problem, hopefully for good.
I'm struggling with the controls. I've got a reasonably good colour. Initially it was rather cold and blue, but there was a reduced blue setting in the OSD. I've managed to select this and I'm pretty happy with the colour now. However, I don't seem to be able to alter these settings at all. Do I have to hold "menu" and "select" at the same time, or something like that, to move the sliders?
Anyone who can point me at some instructions on how to use the controls would be appreciated.

I had several queries with AW before my purchase and they were answered swiftly. They seem like a good company to do business with, and so far I am as pleased as punch with my purchase. Now the flicker is sorted I seem to have a perfect example, so kudos to AW.

Cheers all, John Williams


----------



## Kuad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> _Standard Display Connectors: One Dual Link DVI-I, One Dual Link DVI-D, One HDMI, One DisplayPort_
> only one of the dvi's will be able to run 1440p-1600p.


DVI-I works fine for 1440p. I have 2 way SLI using 670 4GB cards, using DVI-I and DVI-D connections to drive my 3x Crossovers. But yes, unless you want to use an active DP to DL-DVI adapter, you need SLI to drive 3 x 1440p.


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuad*
> 
> DVI-I works fine for 1440p. I have 2 way SLI using 670 4GB cards, using DVI-I and DVI-D connections to drive my 3x Crossovers. But yes, unless you want to use an active DP to DL-DVI adapter, you need SLI to drive 3 x 1440p.


i stand corrected. looks like the 680 can handle 4 monitors. i thought one of the DVI's shares with HDMI like my 6970 but the 680 HDMI is 1.4a which can support 3840x2160 @60hz. which theoretically speaking means the 680 run 4 of these monitors.

i'll edit my previous post.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Cloudz00x thanks for letting me know. What color tint did your monitors have yellow or blue. Cause Once i get my monitor i will be trying out your profile that you have uploaded. I hope i get the same color tint so i can use your profile


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> I just received my crossover 27Q LED. I hooked it up to my brand new mac mini that was just released and the monitors stalls on the apple initial screen. I'm connected via the DVI cable that came with the monitor and hooked that into the DVI to HDMI adapter that came with the mac mini. The mini works fine when I connect it to my tv so I know it's working. Any ideas why the crossover monitor would stall on the initial screen?
> Sorry if this is the wrong forum for this. Feel free to direct me to the right place.


Which model of the crossover did you get. Is it the crossover 27q led-p and does it only have the dvi-d socket only. If it has only the dvi-d socket and no other socket like hdmi, mini display port etc. I don't think it will work. Since hdmi 1.3 could only do 1080p max and if its hdmi 1.4a it can do 3840x2160 and 4096x2160 but your mac mini will have to have a hdmi 1.4a socket and not a 1.3 socket. What other socket do you have on the mac mini. Plus i don't think it works with built in gpu. Unless someone hear has got it working with a built in gpu like hd4000 etc. I think you should have gone for a multi socket crossover like crossover 2720MDP that has other socket like hdmi etc. That would have worked fine


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> It's just a Crossover 27Q LED and it only has one DVI socket. It doesn't have any hdmi or mini display port on the monitor. My mac mini also has a thunderbolt port along with the hdmi port.


Damn am sorry to say this but i don't think it will work. You can try this but am not sure if it will work get a Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter and that might work but i cant grantee you it will work tho. And the last thing you can do is replace it and get one of the multi socket korean display and that will work fine. Also try another hdmi cable if you have one


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## bobn4burton

So I know there has been a whole huge discussion on backlight flickering and it tends to be a faulty board with burned up mosfet (blue pcb). And supposedly if you have the green pcb, you are good to go.

Well, I've been using my 27q very happily since last April. I love the thing...but just in the last couple of days I've noticed a little bit of backlight "flicker" every once in a while. It doesn't do it continually and the flicker is more of a brightness level shift back and forth. I just notice the backlight will all of a sudden get a little less bright and then get bright again (repeats a couple times). And then its solid for a while...and maybe 30 minutes later I'll see it again.

So at first I thought for sure I had the blue pcb. But looking at the back of my monitor I see a green pcb board for the LED driver board.

So is my issue something different? Has anyone seen a bad green board with backlight "flickering" symptoms before it died?

I have been using the 200-220V ac adapter (mine didn't come with a 100-220V adapter). Could this be the problem? I've just ordered a 100-220 version on ebay...just in case.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> Wow, bummer. I clearly didn't pay attention. I'll try the mini display port adapter. If that doesn't work sounds like you're saying I should get something like a Crossover 2730MD LED 27" S-IPS Monitor 2560x1440 WQHD HDMI 1.4a DVI-D VGA D-SUB


Yeah if that does not work. Get a korean display that has other socket like hdmi 1.4a,mini display port etc. But am not sure if you will be able to get 2560x1440p res tho. But then again with mac mini you can get the apple cinema display to work in 2560x1440p so it should work. Also try a different dvi-d cable. Cause the one came might be faulty. Since you can see on start up apple logo


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> I found the following description so I'll probably try the mini display port to dvi adapter otherwise I might be out of luck.
> **This model simultaneously supports 1920x1200 on an HDMI or a DVI display (using the included HDMI-to-DVI adapter) and 2560x1600 on a Thunderbolt or Mini DisplayPort display or even a VGA display (with an optional Mini DisplayPort-to-VGA adapter, which is compatible with the Thunderbolt port).**


Damn i guess the only thing left is to try the Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter. If that does not work tell the seller if you can swap it with one of the multi socket ones


----------



## C70T5

Ergotron LX monitor arm works perfect with the Crossovers. I'm so happy with it!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C70T5*
> 
> Ergotron LX monitor arm works perfect with the Crossovers. I'm so happy with it!


----------



## Descadent

some new pics to entice buyers.


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> I just received my crossover 27Q LED. I hooked it up to my brand new mac mini that was just released and the monitors stalls on the apple initial screen. I'm connected via the DVI cable that came with the monitor and hooked that into the DVI to HDMI adapter that came with the mac mini. The mini works fine when I connect it to my tv so I know it's working. Any ideas why the crossover monitor would stall on the initial screen?
> Sorry if this is the wrong forum for this. Feel free to direct me to the right place.


I too bought a white 27q for my mac mini. Yes, you need to buy the displayport to dual link dvi.

Works great, besides the one main issue that i complained about.

I'm actually running it in a 3 monitor config ( other 2 are 1080p) w/ the 3rd monitor via Displaylink usb video adapter.


----------



## nekonet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> some new pics to entice buyers.


Love your setup, are all three none perfect pixel? if yes did you get any dead pixels? How much did you paid for each one of them?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Cloudz00x thanks for letting me know. What color tint did your monitors have yellow or blue. Cause Once i get my monitor i will be trying out your profile that you have uploaded. I hope i get the same color tint so i can use your profile


Seems all the monitors I have received are either bright or more towards a slight yellow tint. Regardless I think even if you get a slight blue ting you'll enjoy the profile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobn4burton*
> 
> So I know there has been a whole huge discussion on backlight flickering and it tends to be a faulty board with burned up mosfet (blue pcb). And supposedly if you have the green pcb, you are good to go.
> Well, I've been using my 27q very happily since last April. I love the thing...but just in the last couple of days I've noticed a little bit of backlight "flicker" every once in a while. It doesn't do it continually and the flicker is more of a brightness level shift back and forth. I just notice the backlight will all of a sudden get a little less bright and then get bright again (repeats a couple times). And then its solid for a while...and maybe 30 minutes later I'll see it again.
> So at first I thought for sure I had the blue pcb. But looking at the back of my monitor I see a green pcb board for the LED driver board.
> So is my issue something different? Has anyone seen a bad green board with backlight "flickering" symptoms before it died?
> I have been using the 200-220V ac adapter (mine didn't come with a 100-220V adapter). Could this be the problem? I've just ordered a 100-220 version on ebay...just in case.
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.


It might be a older revision of the green pcb. When you look at it make sure it has 3 mosfets going across. Thats the good one. Also regardless having the green one is trying to future proof yourself doesn't mean it doesn't have the ability to burn out like the others. Just a lesser chance. Check your power brick, adapter and everything else to trouble shoot. Also contact your seller so they can help as well.


----------



## BimWim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BimWim*
> 
> Seller is now promising to send me a board next week. We shall see.


Fedex man delivered the green pcb board, which I installed.
The monitor is back in operation.


----------



## gezer

I'm thinking of buying a Crossover. Is the 2720MDP model with the 10bit color good? Since its multi input, it has input lag, but is it bad? I'm thinking between the standard model with 8bit color and this one, but I'm not sure wich one to choose. Having no input lag or 10bit color.


----------



## shortyg83

I am very curious about it saying 10bit. As the box says 16.7 million colors like normal. Which is not a 10bit display.


----------



## MatterChannel

Yeah i am wondering the same thing! is there any real difference between the 2720MDP or the other 8 bit models! anyone want to give us some input?







!


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> I am very curious about it saying 10bit. As the box says 16.7 million colors like normal. Which is not a 10bit display.


Box also says 1080p







Not sure if it's on crossovers too.


----------



## gezer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatterChannel*
> 
> Yeah i am wondering the same thing! is there any real difference between the 2720MDP or the other 8 bit models! anyone want to give us some input?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Need to know this, as I'm basing my purchase solely on this thing. If its just 8bit, then every other model would suffice.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Need to know this, as I'm basing my purchase solely on this thing. If its just 8bit, then every other model would suffice.


Have you looked at the first page? Alot of information especially since it answers your question..


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekonet*
> 
> Love your setup, are all three none perfect pixel? if yes did you get any dead pixels? How much did you paid for each one of them?


they are not non pixel perfect versions. No dead pixels no terrible back light bleed etc... 1st one was $400 and other 2 were $350 from Accessorieswhole... of course I bought them when they were cheaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Have you looked at the first page? Alot of information especially since it answers your question..


Nope. nor have they looked at the auctions either that say the difference plain as day


----------



## jacquesstrap

Been following this thread for many months. I will likely be pulling the trigger soon on a CrossOver 27Q LED-P, and will probably be going with AccessoriesWhole.

My only concern is my video card, which is a MSI GTX 460 Hawk 1GB. Is anyone else running a Crossover or comparable 1440P monitor with this card, or a comparable GTX 460? If so, how are you finding the performance? Can't find anything in the entire thread.


----------



## nekonet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> they are not non pixel perfect versions. No dead pixels no terrible back light bleed etc... 1st one was $400 and other 2 were $350 from Accessorieswhole... of course I bought them when they were cheaper
> Nope. nor have they looked at the auctions either that say the difference plain as day


I mean, perfect pixel as in did you get the pixel perfect versions or not, I'm also looking to get 3 CrossOver but the perfect pixel one is $500


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> I'm thinking of buying a Crossover. Is the 2720MDP model with the 10bit color good? Since its multi input, it has input lag, but is it bad? I'm thinking between the standard model with 8bit color and this one, but I'm not sure wich one to choose. Having no input lag or 10bit color.


Input lag does not seem to be an issue at all with the 2720MDP. I haven't noticed any kinda lag after having played games such as MW3, Gears of War 3, or even Halo 4. If anything, my stats have only gone up!


----------



## shortyg83

Now I could be mistaken but you guys keep saying look at the first page and look at the ebay listing.
And unless I am missing something you would both be wrong as our answer whether these monitors are truly 10 bit is never addressed.
considering all the first page is list the specs from the ebay page.
Everything else says 16.7 million colors. And I haven' seen anyone report otherwise.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> Now I could be mistaken but you guys keep saying look at the first page and look at the ebay listing.
> And unless I am missing something you would both be wrong as our answer whether these monitors are truly 10 bit is never addressed.
> considering all the first page is list the specs from the ebay page.
> Everything else says 16.7 million colors. And I haven' seen anyone report otherwise.


The LG panel used in the Dell U2711, Apple Cinema Display, and presumably all these Korean models (since they use the same panel) are indeed 8 bit displays.








Link to panel specs

Hope this helps who had questions about the bit number for the displays


----------



## FlyingSolo

Damn i didn't get lucky i have four stuck pixels and not dead pixels i think cause i can see them in white,red,green,blue background. Plus the stand does not tilt on the left side and don't have a clue how to get the height adjustment working. Plus the back light does not go all the way down it goes only a bit and not all the way to a black screen


----------



## johnwillyums

As I reported the other day, my 2720MDP, which I've used for just four evenings now, seems a good one. It does not have any dead or stuck pixels and the initial worrying flicker has been cured by using a regular UK power lead into the brick, rather than the one provided with a UK plug adapter.
Also it scales everything very well. All my movies, whether hi def or not, scale up to fill the screen. Similarly, it plays ordinary, low definition TV, as well as HD TV perfectly. The presence of a scaler was the deciding factor in choosing this model over the other, cheaper, versions, which I believe don't have a scaler. That and the adjustable stand.
However I have to say I'm slightly disappointed over all.
I have been using a Dell 2408WFP for the last few years. It still works perfectly, and I've got them both up on my desk. I'm not running them as a dual display, partly because it taxes my Nvidia GTX 260, but mainly because I don't know a way to have 16x10 on one panel and 16x9 on the other. I tried it' but if I have the Crossover as my main monitor, my Dell becomes 16x9 and looks crap. Any input on that issue would be welcome
I'm not sure what kind of panel the Dell is, it's not TN or IPS, however I think it's better than the Crossover. The viewing angles are much better on the Dell, as are the blacks.
I'm not completely sure, but I don't believe I have a light bleed problem on the Crossover, but there is a glare from the screen. This seems to mean that there are lots of good shades of grey, but no true blacks. Having the monitor on with no input gives a fairly good even colouration , but it is a dull black/grey. The black screen on the Dell is totally black.
I being a bit picky here I know, I'm still very pleased with my purchase and intend to keep it as my main monitor (I think). Movies and TV look great. The extra screen space is wonderful, especially now that most movies are 16x9. The Dell displays 16x9 movies with a black band at the top and bottom, and this reduces the picture even more. So the Crossover looks huge in comparison.

I suppose I expected to be "wowed" more than I am, but I would still recommend this model to anyone. It is amazing for the money, even the build quality is a lot better than I had expected.

Cheers, John Williams


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnwillyums*
> 
> I have been using a Dell 2408WFP for the last few years. It still works perfectly, and I've got them both up on my desk. I'm not running them as a dual display, partly because it taxes my Nvidia GTX 260, but mainly because I don't know a way to have 16x10 on one panel and 16x9 on the other. I tried it' but if I have the Crossover as my main monitor, my Dell becomes 16x9 and looks crap. Any input on that issue would be welcome
> I'm not sure what kind of panel the Dell is, it's not TN or IPS, however I think it's better than the Crossover. The viewing angles are much better on the Dell, as are the blacks.


For dual displays on Windows do you have under 'Screen Resolution' for the dell to be an extension of the desktop and not a clone of the 16:9 image given on Crossover as it's the main display?

As for the viewing angles and blacks it's because the Dell is a PVA based display. My Samsung F2380 is C-PVA based as well and has continued to trounce my Apple and well more apparently my Crossovers, even my new 55" Panasonic GT50 plasma in the blacks category. This is in part due to all PVA variations being just a great display in general over backlit LED for computer use imo.


----------



## gezer

http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/130785741361?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

This one states overclcokable 125hz monitor. Weren't only a select few of Yamakasis overclockable?


----------



## MatterChannel

Interesting....it would be awesome if crossover can overclock! i would get that!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/130785741361?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> This one states overclcokable 125hz monitor. Weren't only a select few of Yamakasis overclockable?


Aye, the overclock depended heavily on chance of panel and willingness to push the monitor. I read up on when the people did it and the Hz were all across the board if I remember correctly.


----------



## xSociety

I'm so tempted to buy one of those for my non-fps games. What are my chances of an overclock of say 90Hz?


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/130785741361?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> This one states overclcokable 125hz monitor. Weren't only a select few of Yamakasis overclockable?


This model you have gave the link for does not overclock at all. Someone hear bought it and it didn't work. so if anyone else thinking of buying this to overclock don't buy this


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> trada101, how'd you get your crossover 27q to work with your mac mini? I have a late 2012 mac mini and I can't get it to display on the monitor. I have the apple mini displayport to dual link dvi cable and I bought a new dual link dvi cable just in case the one that came with the monitor was faulty. The 27Q works when I use my several year old macbook pro but I can't get anything to display with my mac mini or macbook air.


the official apple mini displayport to dual link dvi is crap and has a lot of bad reviews on apple store. Check the reviews out and you will know what i mean. But if its not the official one not sure then


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## JustinZ

Has anybody with a 2720 / 2730 tried to use 1920 x 1080 over DL-DVI?

When I try that res (seem like ONLY that res) the text becomes blocky -- not smooth anybody else try it?


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnwillyums*
> 
> As I reported the other day, my 2720MDP, which I've used for just four evenings now, seems a good one. It does not have any dead or stuck pixels and the initial worrying flicker has been cured by using a regular UK power lead into the brick, rather than the one provided with a UK plug adapter.
> Also it scales everything very well. All my movies, whether hi def or not, scale up to fill the screen. Similarly, it plays ordinary, low definition TV, as well as HD TV perfectly. The presence of a scaler was the deciding factor in choosing this model over the other, cheaper, versions, which I believe don't have a scaler. That and the adjustable stand.
> However I have to say I'm slightly disappointed over all.
> I have been using a Dell 2408WFP for the last few years. It still works perfectly, and I've got them both up on my desk. I'm not running them as a dual display, partly because it taxes my Nvidia GTX 260, but mainly because I don't know a way to have 16x10 on one panel and 16x9 on the other. I tried it' but if I have the Crossover as my main monitor, my Dell becomes 16x9 and looks crap. Any input on that issue would be welcome
> I'm not sure what kind of panel the Dell is, it's not TN or IPS, however I think it's better than the Crossover. The viewing angles are much better on the Dell, as are the blacks.
> I'm not completely sure, but I don't believe I have a light bleed problem on the Crossover, but there is a glare from the screen. This seems to mean that there are lots of good shades of grey, but no true blacks. Having the monitor on with no input gives a fairly good even colouration , but it is a dull black/grey. The black screen on the Dell is totally black.
> I being a bit picky here I know, I'm still very pleased with my purchase and intend to keep it as my main monitor (I think). Movies and TV look great. The extra screen space is wonderful, especially now that most movies are 16x9. The Dell displays 16x9 movies with a black band at the top and bottom, and this reduces the picture even more. So the Crossover looks huge in comparison.
> I suppose I expected to be "wowed" more than I am, but I would still recommend this model to anyone. It is amazing for the money, even the build quality is a lot better than I had expected.
> Cheers, John Williams


See if you can adjust the brightness level. I have mine set on 7. The default brightness was way too much for me. Having used a few IPS displays before, the blacks seem just about fine according to the standard of the IPS panels. Also, the Dell 2408 uses a SPVA/MVA panel(i think) so the blacks would slightly be better, no doubt.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> I do have the official one from apple, just grabbed an extra one from work so it could be older. Should I try a different model?


Try a different cable and not the one apple sells and see if that works


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's now am seeing 6 stuck or dead pixel first it was 2 then it went to 4 now its 6 do you guys think its the dvi-d cable that came with it is the problem


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> Got it working but now the monitor is flashing consistently (every few seconds) but I can see the desktop on the monitor. Any ideas on how to stop the flashing?


Sorry am not sure of that it can be a faulty pcb


----------



## FlyingSolo

Damn just notice it now on black background on the left side of the screen there are about 7 to 9 stuck pixel and there very small dots. You have to put your face close to the monitor to see it. Plus i have four dead pixel. Three of them very small dots and one like a little line and you can see them on a white,blue,red,green background. Do you guys think its the cable that came with it. That is causing this. Plus when gaming or watching movies cant tell at all. What do you guys think i should do. return it for a replacement


----------



## F0zzie

I don't think dead/stuck pixels got something to do with the dvi cable. AFAIK dead pixels come form factory and stuck pixels can occur while using it... try to use this link to fix it -

www.makeuseof.com/tag/best-software-solutions-to-fix-a-stuck-pixel-on-your-lcd-monitor/


----------



## johnwillyums

Thanks for your replies Azefore and Anmolkapoor

After extensive comparisons tests last night, I have to agree with both of you are right, the SPVA panel on my old Dell is far superior to this IPS panel in every way. That's rather disappointing.
Thinking about it I bought the Dell just as this model was being superseded by the U series. As a result the 2408WFP had fallen in price , but was still over £450.
Just in case I had a bad panel, I went in to PC World and took a good look at an Apple 27" panel. The colour calibration was better than mine but generally the issues are the same,: glow giving a somewhat washed out effect, and inferior blacks.
Damn, I was torn about whether to use that money to upgrade my chip, mobo and RAM, or get this monitor. Think I made the wrong choice
To make the best of it I can use the Crossover for watching movies and TV. They look ok, and benefit from the extra screen space. Also hi def stuff is better due to the resolution.
But for my photographic work I shall have to continue with the Dell. It gives much more accurate colours and, apart from a small amount of black crush, far better blacks.
Oh well. I'd still say moving from a TN panel to this is a major step up, and well worth doing

Does anybody still make SPVA panels?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's need some advice hear. I have done this to add the profile but still no luck. Right-click desktop → Screen resolution → Advanced settings → Color Management tab → Color Management → All Profiles tab → Add... do i need to do anything after this. Cause the color does not change. Also when i go to Screen resolution →Advanced → Monitor the screen refresh rate is 59 hertz now when i change this to 60 hertz and apply then go back in again it goes back to 59 hertz again does anyone else have this problem am using a gtx 670 card or is this normal


----------



## joshfrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> Got it working but now the monitor is flashing consistently (every few seconds) but I can see the desktop on the monitor. Any ideas on how to stop the flashing?


Same issue here. Just got a 27Q for my son, and have been checking it out with my computer - Macbook Air 13" (mid 2012). Started with the Monoprice mini-DisplayPort to Dual DVI cable; all that got me was a second or two of connection and then the screen went black. Switched out that cable for the Official(ly Expensive) Apple version, and that got me to the same screen-cycling issue you described. (Also switched out the DVI cable itself, which didn't have any effect.) Did not have any problems getting a consistent screen image on the Crossover when I tried an older Macbook Pro (mid 2009). Is there something about the Air and Mini that requires a different configuration?

(By the way: I've been lurking here for I while as I tried to figure out which monitor to buy; appreciate all the information and advice that everyone has supplied. Thanks to all.)


----------



## Descadent

You need an active dp to dl-dvi adapter to make display port work with these monitors if you want to use dp. Check amazon


----------



## joshfrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> You need an active dp to dl-dvi adapter to make display port work with these monitors if you want to use dp. Check amazon


Thanks. I thought the Monoprice and Apple adapters *were* active. Is that not the case? (Sorry for my ignorance.)


----------



## Descadent

Yup and that's why they aren't working


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Yup and that's why they aren't working


You sure about that? Looks active to me.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> You sure about that? Looks active to me.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2


i do not think that is the one he bought on monoprice... he just bought a dp to dvi cable or adapter

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshfrai*
> 
> Started with the Monoprice mini-DisplayPort to Dual DVI cable; all that got me was a second or two of connection and then the screen went black. Switched out that cable for the Official(ly Expensive) Apple version, and that got me to the same screen-cycling issue you described. (Also switched out the DVI cable itself, which didn't have any effect.)


yes he never bought an active dp to dl-dvi adapter according to what he said


----------



## Crazy9000

If that's the case he should get that one







. I assume he got the proper one at monoprice, and this apple one: http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter

Either of which *should* work.


----------



## Descadent

this is one that most everyone uses with these koreans...you will also see on the page one for mini dp too.

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1352574133&sr=8-4&keywords=accell+dp+to+dvi


----------



## joshfrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> this is one that most everyone uses with these koreans...you will also see on the page one for mini dp too.
> http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1352574133&sr=8-4&keywords=accell+dp+to+dvi


I'll give that one a try. (For the record, the Monoprice and Apple adapters linked to above are the ones I used.)

thanks


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's need some advice hear. I have done this to add the profile but still no luck. Right-click desktop → Screen resolution → Advanced settings → Color Management tab → Color Management → All Profiles tab → Add... do i need to do anything after this. Cause the color does not change. Also when i go to Screen resolution →Advanced → Monitor the screen refresh rate is 59 hertz now when i change this to 60 hertz and apply then go back in again it goes back to 59 hertz again does anyone else have this problem am using a gtx 670 card or is this normal


Follow this to keep your colo0r profile from changing:
http://www.laszlopusztai.net/2009/08/23/stop-losing-display-calibration-with-windows-7/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/130785741361?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> This one states overclcokable 125hz monitor. Weren't only a select few of Yamakasis overclockable?


All monitors are overclock able since it all of the Korean monitors use the same tech. Only difference is the brand and the housing. Without the correctly piece do not assume your gonna be able to overclock any of the korean monitors. You need a "2B PCB" to make anything overclock able. Currently these are not sold separately.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's now am seeing 6 stuck or dead pixel first it was 2 then it went to 4 now its 6 do you guys think its the dvi-d cable that came with it is the problem


It can be any sorts of things. You can start troubleshooting right now before you contact ther seller. Also please remember if you bought the Non-pixel perfect version you shoudl expect some pixels. Yes majority are lucky and claim pixel perfect but regardless you are susceptible to getting it. Stucvk pixels are what they are... Stuck pixels. You can opnly do so much to try and fix them.

You can apply pressure via the screen for 1 second each where the stuck/dead pixels are located for a span of 1 min.
Use this link and run it overnight 10+ Hours - http://www.yourepeat.com/watch/?v=F23aHQ2oYQs
( Already have it looped, just full screen and leave it)

Open up the monitor and locate the actual panel. Gently message the areas where the stuck/dead pixels are located. Sometimes Dead pixels come alive.

All else fails, complain back to the seller and see if the dead/stuck pixels are within limit of his policy. Usually no more that 1 Dead/Stuck Pixel in the center of the screen and 5-8 on the other sub sections.

Sad to say Stuck/dead pixels have nothing to do with your power brick/cable. Usually screen tearing and blinking can have some association with them.


----------



## MenacingTuba

My profile and settings for both the 2720Mdp gold and 27Q are available in TFT centrals ICC database now

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> this is one that most everyone uses with these koreans...you will also see on the page one for mini dp too.
> http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1352574133&sr=8-4&keywords=accell+dp+to+dvi


Yep I can confirm my friend bought the same ones.


----------



## FlyingSolo

@Cloudz00x thanks for letting me know but the problem was i couldn't use any profile at all. Now i can use them. For anyone who wants to use profile this is what you will have to do. First go to color management then go to advanced and then calibrate display and use the windows software to calibrate after that's done. Go back to color management again now add the profile and hit set as default and it will now work. That's how i got the profiles to work for me


----------



## FlyingSolo

@Cloudz00x your profile works the best for me. Thanks+rep


----------



## shortyg83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> @Cloudz00x thanks for letting me know but the problem was i couldn't use any profile at all. Now i can use them. For anyone who wants to use profile this is what you will have to do. First go to color management then go to advanced and then calibrate display and use the windows software to calibrate after that's done. Go back to color management again now add the profile and hit set as default and it will now work. That's how i got the profiles to work for me


I was under the impression this was the only way to do it? how else were you even trying?


----------



## dafoomie

Anyone else have a problem with the screen occasionally going black briefly and turning back on? It's not the backlight, and the power LED stays on. Doesn't happen all that often.

Now that I mentioned it, it did it a few times consecutively and the LED went red, had to turn it off and on to get it back.


----------



## taker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> My profile and settings for both the 2720Mdp gold and 27Q are available in TFT centrals ICC database now
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm


Hello. I tested your file 2720mdp model and noticed a pink tinge in some light gray. I had to lower the red color of the OSD to 96 and already looks perfect. Is this normal in your icc file? I have bad or the lcd?


----------



## moh182

Hello, I work with video edition and I am in doubt about to buy two Crossover2720MDP monitors 27 " to use on my Macbook Pro 15 (Early 2011) but I have some doubts.
I saw that Crossover 2720MDP has MiniDisplay port, I can connect a monitor to another like i connect the Apple Cinema Display Thunderbolt? What kind of accessory that I would have to do both monitors work in full resolution on Macbook Pro?
And I would also indications of ebay users who send monitors without dead pixel

Thanks for everything


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moh182*
> 
> Hello, I work with video edition and I am in doubt about to buy two Crossover2720MDP monitors 27 " to use on my Macbook Pro 15 (Early 2011) but I have some doubts.
> I saw that Crossover 2720MDP has MiniDisplay port, I can connect a monitor to another like i connect the Apple Cinema Display Thunderbolt? What kind of accessory that I would have to do both monitors work in full resolution on Macbook Pro?
> And I would also indications of ebay users who send monitors without dead pixel
> Thanks for everything


everything is within this thread or the last two pages.


----------



## shortyg83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> Anyone else have a problem with the screen occasionally going black briefly and turning back on? It's not the backlight, and the power LED stays on. Doesn't happen all that often.
> Now that I mentioned it, it did it a few times consecutively and the LED went red, had to turn it off and on to get it back.


Did you check if the power brick is getting hot when this happens?


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> Did you check if the power brick is getting hot when this happens?


If it happens again I will check, but right now it's not even warm. I'm hoping it's the video card since I'm replacing that anyway.


----------



## snafflehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> this is one that most everyone uses with these koreans...you will also see on the page one for mini dp too.
> http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1352574133&sr=8-4&keywords=accell+dp+to+dvi


I use a Dell Bizlink adapter, which I believe is the same as this one just in different packaging. They can usually be picked up very cheap, for instance I paid ~£30 for mine (~$50).

Dell Bizlink, Model: XT625


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> trada101, how'd you get your crossover 27q to work with your mac mini? I have a late 2012 mac mini and I can't get it to display on the monitor. I have the apple mini displayport to dual link dvi cable and I bought a new dual link dvi cable just in case the one that came with the monitor was faulty. The 27Q works when I use my several year old macbook pro but I can't get anything to display with my mac mini or macbook air.


Yes I'm using the Apple DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI : http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter

I just hooked it up to my monitor and it showed up, I didn't do anything special besides rebooting.

You have to make sure you also plug in the USB plug, it provides more power as well as acting as the USB by pass port.

The only thing is when my mini comes out of sleep sometimes the monitor will get a strange "old analog tv type interference snow" overlay. So I just turn the monitor off and turn it back on again and it goes away. I hope this isn't something that will become worse.

Here's a picture of my setup, you'll see the adapter in the lower left corner.


Also, I don't know what people say the Apple adapter is bad, I haven't had any problems with it and it's constructed well enough. It is pricey but still cheaper than all the other brands that are available.


----------



## Kluvwen

I wanted to thank the people in this thread. I had the flickering problem on my 27q and then it died. From the information in this thread I was able to talk to the seller I purchased my monitor from (dream-seller) and he shipped a new pcb. Works fine now..

Thanks!


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> Ok, thanks. It looks like the monitor is actually turning off and then back on again. The red monitor light in the bottom right corner of the display flashes briefly when the display goes black before the display turns on again. I'm at a loss on how to fix it.
> Edit: looks like maybe the screen isn't totally turning off since I can sort of see some of the windows on the desktop if I look really closely while the screen is black.


Oh that doesn't sound good. I think the only thing left to do is hook the Crossover up to another computer to confirm that it is the monitor that's having the problem.

So I take it that the mini has no problems when hooked up to a lower res monitor?


----------



## KCKC

i just used Cloudz00x profile but my screen has gone pink on white background?

I just seen his thread after i got my monitor and i never asked for a green pcb is that the issue, sorry bit clueless with this kind of thing until i can learn how to do it all.

Thanks


----------



## dafoomie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> Did you check if the power brick is getting hot when this happens?


Didn't happen for a while, but happened twice within 5 to 10 minutes and the brick was pretty warm, shut the monitor off until the brick cooled down and it was fine.


----------



## johnwillyums

Oh dear. I've got a constant flicker along the very top of the screen. It's been doing this for days now.
I only got the monitor 9 days ago and I had a flicker problem quite badly. This was semi-cured by changing the power lead. A Korean one is supplied, plus a plug adapter for UK sockets.
I changed that for a regular UK power lead, and that removed the majority of the problem.
However, what looks like a single line of pixels at the top of the screen, are still flickering. So, as I'm typing this, I am constantly distracted by the top of the browser "wobbling".
Does anyone know a cure for this? The monitor is perfect in every other way.
I've contacted AW about it, two days ago in fact. No reply yet.
It doesn't sound like much, compared to some people's problems, but I don't think I can live with it. Also, I'm worried it will get worse.
If I don't get a response from AW, or I get a fob off, I may need to escalate and make a claim with Amazon.

Anyone got a view on this? John Williams


----------



## taker

Anyone know enter the service menu 2720mdp ?


----------



## KCKC

Had simliar problem and stressed me out at first, although still using the lead provided with monitor.

Mine has some how gone back to normal after a day , but worried incase it comes back but so far so good.

I updated my AMD centre restarted pc etc and it seems to have done trick for me.

mine was in middle of screen, at first thought i had to send it back and go through all the hassle but just hoping it want happen to me again.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guys need some advice from you all. This is my first time owning a monitor and wanted to know if this is normal

This is from top view


This is from right side view


left side view


this view is not a close view. Short from quite a few foot away


Close up view


is this normal with ips display ?


----------



## Descadent

you need to take a pic at night so we can tell what is glare and what isn't


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you need to take a pic at night so we can tell what is glare and what isn't


Ok thanks will do. The picture quality does not look the same when i view it form the top or from right or from left when standing up or sitting down. I thought the picture quality should look the same where ever you view it from


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## johnwillyums

MrKay. Mine looks the same as yours given the lighting conditions. It is not black when the screen is on with no input.
I imagine this is the IPS "glare" people have mentioned.
When I first turn my monitor on I get this effect. At first I thought it was a problem in the lower left corner, but then I noticed that the glare changed position as I moved around.
If I stand about 10 feet away and look straight at the screen, the glare looks fairly even.
I think this is normal for an IPS display. As I mentioned a couple of posts ago, I went and had a close look at an Apple IPS panel and it looked much the same when I turned off the input.
Similarly, the viewing angles are not what I had hoped. They are much better than a TN panel, but the colour changes quite drastically with sideways viewpoints, as does the brightness.

I am coming from a 24" Dell S/PVA panel, and I expected this to be as good, if not better, in terms of viewing angles and deep blacks, but this is not the case.
Nonetheless, I'm pleased with it for the price, and very glad I didn't shell out three times as much for a similar, slightly disappointing experience, with an Apple or a Dell 27"

What is concerning me is what appears to be a row of LEDs or Pixels (?) along the top of the display, which are flickering constantly.
If I look at this line closely I can see a white pinprick every 30mm or so. These are flickering in a ripple effect and cause the very top of the display to appear to wobble slightly.
I need advice about this, before I make a claim. Does it go away? is there any way to fix it? does it get any worse?
It was a lot worse initially, until I changed power leads into the brick. Is that the issue does anyone know?

Bu the way, my power brick gets quite hot, rapidly, after I power up. It is not too hot to touch, but not far off. I have used the monitor for several hours and it remains at the same temperature, so I'm assuming this is normal

hey ho, John Williams


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guys need some advice from you all. This is my first time owning a monitor and wanted to know if this is normal
> This is from top view
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is from right side view
> 
> left side view
> 
> this view is not a close view. Short from quite a few foot away
> 
> Close up view
> 
> 
> 
> is this normal with ips display ?


Aye this is normal behavior, I found it marginally more apparent on the Crossovers than my Apple when I tested them probably has to do with the tempered glass . You won't get drastic changes when you take pics in a darker setting by much.

@John Williams, I haven't heard of the flickering pixels before someone else may have experience on here with it but as for the power brick I'd probably change the lead if possible and see if it makes a change. Mine stay pretty cool after 3-4 hours of use, are you at higher brightness settings?


----------



## johnwillyums

Thanks for your reply Azefore, I've tried three different power leads. The one supplied, plus UK plug adapter, was terrible in respect of the flickering problem. It gave me about a 4mm band of flickering along the top of the panel.
This was much improved by a normal UK power lead. I have tried two of those, and this very thin line of flickering remains with both.
As for the power brick, that heats up to the hot side of warm within a few minutes. It would make a great hand warmer

Seems likely that the answer to my flickering problem lies either with the lead or the brick.
I've got brightness set at 80% by the way. I can't seem to enter the menu apart from choosing two settings. I haven't worked out how to move the sliders. Is there a trick to the way you use the buttons to make changes? On the whole though I'm finding the brightness ok, and I've adjusted the colour using Nvidia's tool, so that's acceptable, although still cooler than the Dell 2408WFP.
As I have said, I've contacted AW two days ago but no reply as yet. Not sure whether to ask for a refund before my 30 days is up. that seems drastic over such a minor issue.
I don't really notice it when I'm sat back watching a video or TV, but when browsing it is very irritating and draws the eye. Also, it may get worse.

So a bit of a dilemma. Maybe, as you say, someone else has had a similar issue. Thanks for your input Azefore


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> The Crossover works fine if I connect it to my 2009 macbook pro. Connecting my 2011 macbook air to the Crossover has the same problems as the 2012 mac mini with the screen going black every few seconds. The mac mini and macbook air work fine if I connect them to my tv (don't have a second monitor to test with).


Man, that is strange.

Is your dvi adapter new? I've read the older ones had some problems.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Thanks for letting me know guys


----------



## drtepper

Hey everybody, I'm making my internet rounds trying to find an answer before my monitor explodes on me.

Anyway, my Crossover 27Q is starting to have flickering issues after 3-4 months, most likely tied to the crappy blue LED driver board. Now, I'm trying to line up a replacement board with my seller - greensum. He sent me photos of a possible replacement board, *VLD0100*, I hadn't seen anything on this model anywhere except for some Russian / Korean sites on Google and it isn't exactly the zyglobal-brand green board that AW seems to be sending nor the fif22ld-04a that is some other replacement used. Anybody have any experience with this board? Or know if a swap like this won't cause a catastrophe? I suppose the most basic question would then be: does anyone have any method of getting a compatible replacement board?

Here's what the seller sent me pics of:

















And.. I think this the sameish board (taken from a google search)

















Sorry for all of the image spam.

Thanks.


----------



## Remix65

how about take the board to a local electrician and have him test it out for you. you've pretty much done most of the work right there parting it out. he can check what capacitors/parts need replacing and you can buy them for $1 on ebay and replace them yourself.

i'm amidst repairing a high end $1000 power amplifier and they have the semantics available on pdf, ordered parts off ebay for $10. only problem is it takes 3 weeks for parts to get here from china..


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guys need some advice from you all. This is my first time owning a monitor and wanted to know if this is normal
> This is from top view
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is from right side view
> 
> left side view
> 
> this view is not a close view. Short from quite a few foot away
> 
> Close up view
> 
> 
> 
> is this normal with ips display ?


Yes it's normal. it shows up on my Apple Cinema as well even worst than my Crossover. Link in my sig.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guy's need some advice form you all. Say if your monitor had 12 stuck pixel on the left side of the screen and there very small colored dots and you can see only see them if your face is near the monitor and on black screen only. Or else you cant see it. Plus if you also had 4 dead pixel. Will you get a replacement or take a partial refund?


----------



## Xibal

Hi guys, I just need to double check that the 27Q does indeed work with 5870 when windows boots and during BIOS posting, there will be a black screen.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's need some advice form you all. Say if your monitor had 12 stuck pixel on the left side of the screen and there very small colored dots and you can see only see them if your face is near the monitor and on black screen only. Or else you cant see it. Plus if you also had 4 dead pixel. Will you get a replacement or take a partial refund?


Depends who you bought it from. Go on the ebay page and there is statement about the dead pixel policy, I think it was around 1 pixel in center and 5 on other parts? Really depends on the seller, but most have this, try to contact them.
You can also give a try to the "Unstuck pixels" programs, the ones that flash all the colours on your screen and leave it overnight or whatever the program says.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Depends who you bought it from. Go on the ebay page and there is statement about the dead pixel policy, I think it was around 1 pixel in center and 5 on other parts? Really depends on the seller, but most have this, try to contact them.
> You can also give a try to the "Unstuck pixels" programs, the ones that flash all the colours on your screen and leave it overnight or whatever the program says.


Thanks already used some software which didn't help. Well i asked for a replacement. Lets see what happens now. The thing is you can only see it in black screen. I used this software

http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php

normally you wont be able to see it at all. Unless your looking for it and your face is close to the monitor which you will never be that close at all. I will ask everyone hear to check this out since you will not know just by looking from a distance


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Depends who you bought it from. Go on the ebay page and there is statement about the dead pixel policy, I think it was around 1 pixel in center and 5 on other parts? Really depends on the seller, but most have this, try to contact them.
> You can also give a try to the "Unstuck pixels" programs, the ones that flash all the colours on your screen and leave it overnight or whatever the program says.


Agree with what he said. The seller is what makes the policy for dead/stuck pixels which usually correlates with the manufacturers pixel policy. Honestly if the amount you stated are correct regardless of viewing distance, I would take the replacement. You seem to have gotten a bad one and the nxt one sent would be in your odds to recieve a better or no dead pixel. As he also stated try some various stuck pixel stricks. I know I posted some a few posts/pages ago with links. Try that if not contact the seller. Make sure to take pictures of the dead/stuck pixels and show them to the seller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drtepper*
> 
> Hey everybody, I'm making my internet rounds trying to find an answer before my monitor explodes on me.
> Anyway, my Crossover 27Q is starting to have flickering issues after 3-4 months, most likely tied to the crappy blue LED driver board. Now, I'm trying to line up a replacement board with my seller - greensum. He sent me photos of a possible replacement board, *VLD0100*, I hadn't seen anything on this model anywhere except for some Russian / Korean sites on Google and it isn't exactly the zyglobal-brand green board that AW seems to be sending nor the fif22ld-04a that is some other replacement used. Anybody have any experience with this board? Or know if a swap like this won't cause a catastrophe? I suppose the most basic question would then be: does anyone have any method of getting a compatible replacement board?
> Here's what the seller sent me pics of:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And.. I think this the sameish board (taken from a google search)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for all of the image spam.
> Thanks.


The first green PCB boared with only 1 mosfet is problematic just like the blue and teals. Since all 3 have the issue with heat dissipation and then eventually burn out. Now saying anything new won'thave the ability to burn out to. All hardware eventually just goes one 1 or the other. But..... That has 2 mosfets. You want that or the 3rd revision which is what your talking about. The one that Aw also replaces. You can request from greensum to have that revision "if" he can get it, if not just take that.


----------



## Crazy9000

My GF's laptop had some stuck pixels and I was able to get about half of them off by flicking them or rubbing them. Can't remember which one worked.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks already used some software which didn't help. Well i asked for a replacement. Lets see what happens now. The thing is you can only see it in black screen. I used this software
> http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php
> normally you wont be able to see it at all. Unless your looking for it and your face is close to the monitor which you will never be that close at all. I will ask everyone hear to check this out since you will not know just by looking from a distance


Dead pixel is dead pixel.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Thanks guy's i asked for a replacement. The thing is with a camera photo you wont be able to see it that's how small the stuck pixels are


----------



## drtepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> The first green PCB boared with only 1 mosfet is problematic just like the blue and teals. Since all 3 have the issue with heat dissipation and then eventually burn out. Now saying anything new won'thave the ability to burn out to. All hardware eventually just goes one 1 or the other. But..... That has 2 mosfets. You want that or the 3rd revision which is what your talking about. The one that Aw also replaces. You can request from greensum to have that revision "if" he can get it, if not just take that.


Thanks for the info. Yeah, I'll see if I can get the 2 or 3-mosfet version either directly from the manuf. or through the seller. I don't think AW would sell me anything off-hand since I didn't order from them, originally. If not, I guess I'll have to settle for the VLD0100.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks guy's i asked for a replacement. The thing is with a camera photo you wont be able to see it that's how small the stuck pixels are


That's with any 2560x1440p monitor. You can still get them with a camera pic. Just gotta get the right angle and take it. Gotta get up close.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drtepper*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Yeah, I'll see if I can get the 2 or 3-mosfet version either directly from the manuf. or through the seller. I don't think AW would sell me anything off-hand since I didn't order from them, originally. If not, I guess I'll have to settle for the VLD0100.


Just FYI the one greensum wants to give you is the 2 mosfet version.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> That's with any 2560x1440p monitor. You can still get them with a camera pic. Just gotta get the right angle and take it. Gotta get up close.


Thanks for letting me know


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> Not sure how new the minidisplay port to dvi cable is as I got it second hand from my it dept at work. I grabbed the other cables I have at work that I know work with my macbook air and a 30" dell monitor at work. I'll give those cables a shot and see if it works. The ebay seller has responded to me and said that the intel 3000 and 4000 graphics cards in my macbook air and mac mini aren't supported and it states that on their product page but obviously other people on this board have gotten this setup to work fine.


Yeah it most definitely works with the Intel 4000 chip. I also have it running a 2nd 1080p monitor and everything works fine. On top of that I connected a Displaylink adapter to run a 3rd display but that doesn't use the Intel 4000 to drive it.

Maybe you could drop by the Apple store to pick up new cables to try out and confirm, then return them.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> The first green PCB boared with only 1 mosfet is problematic just like the blue and teals. Since all 3 have the issue with heat dissipation and then eventually burn out. Now saying anything new won'thave the ability to burn out to. All hardware eventually just goes one 1 or the other. But..... That has 2 mosfets. You want that or the 3rd revision which is what your talking about. The one that Aw also replaces. You can request from greensum to have that revision "if" he can get it, if not just take that.


I'm also in contact with Greensum for a PCB replacemente. Which version do you suggest? Many thanks for your help!


----------



## Remix65

you guys would be better off hunting down what part is causing the problem and replacing the part. the part would cost $1 or less. and probably replacing the part with a better part instead of replacing the board which would cause the same problem down the road.
these monitors are fairly new so looks like the board cause just use a better part than what was used.

take the board to an electrician...


----------



## bern43

I'm thinking about picking one of these up, but all this talk about burnt out PCBs has me a little worried. Anything I can do to ensure I get a monitor that has the PCB that doesn't die? Also, seems like AW has the LED-P version for $999???? I'd pay a tiny bit more to get their supposedly A+ panel, but that's just crazy.


----------



## drtepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> you guys would be better off hunting down what part is causing the problem and replacing the part. the part would cost $1 or less. and probably replacing the part with a better part instead of replacing the board which would cause the same problem down the road.
> these monitors are fairly new so looks like the board cause just use a better part than what was used.
> take the board to an electrician...


Well the problem is, the boards we have, have one MOSFET that seems to be consistantly overheating or overloading. I'm not sure if it's just really bad quality or if the monitor just straight up needs more than one MOSFET to be reliable in the long run. I'm no electric / comp engineering pro or anything, so I wouldn't really know where to begin.


----------



## Althulas

I have just been sent that 2 MOSFET green pcb as a replacement from BCC but not had the opportunity to install it yet. I feed back once I get the chance.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karail*
> 
> I cracked open my monitor to mod a heat sink for the board as a precaution to prevent it from failing. However the pcb is green and has different component layout compare to the pcb's that have a blown mosfet.
> 
> 
> I have had the monitor for almost a month now. The pcb is not burnt nor anything is implying damage caused by excessive heat. Couple of "weird" things here though. Capacitors are not "solid" opposed to those blue pcb and they are made by Sam Young which is south korean corporation i believe. They are rated at 85 degrees celcius. I thought that in this kind of electronics they would always be rated at 105 degrees celcius? Anyway, i hope this pcb is of better quality so i don't have to ask the seller for a new one.


Karail can you chime in here and let us know how your monitor has been with this pcb.


----------



## Hallengreen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> I'm thinking about picking one of these up, but all this talk about burnt out PCBs has me a little worried. Anything I can do to ensure I get a monitor that has the PCB that doesn't die? Also, seems like AW has the LED-P version for $999???? I'd pay a tiny bit more to get their supposedly A+ panel, but that's just crazy.


When AW sets the price for 999, it because he's out of stock atm. Not because he wants to take inzane overprices lol.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> I'm thinking about picking one of these up, but all this talk about burnt out PCBs has me a little worried. Anything I can do to ensure I get a monitor that has the PCB that doesn't die? Also, seems like AW has the LED-P version for $999???? I'd pay a tiny bit more to get their supposedly A+ panel, but that's just crazy.


Get the normal model. The risk of getting burnt out PCBs is very low.


----------



## F0zzie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hallengreen*
> 
> When AW sets the price for 999, it because he's out of stock atm. Not because he wants to take inzane overprices lol.


Yes he doesn't want to lose the 'Sold' count.

Just received the CrossOver Q27 Led-P from [email protected] So far the screen is amazing and flawless, I have one dead pixel and not worth mentioning light bleeding (My bad, doesn't have any light bleeding, I thought so because of the angle I was looking at it) on the bottom right corner it can't be seen without focusing 10cm from the screen. I got the green PCB.

My only complain is that he promised me express shipping and I got economy shipping (but the package did get to me less than ten days. If I exclude the five days it was stuck in customs I can say it took just four days) and the packaging was only the original screen box...


----------



## Karail

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Originally Posted by Karail View Post

I cracked open my monitor to mod a heat sink for the board as a precaution to prevent it from failing. However the pcb is green and has different component layout compare to the pcb's that have a blown mosfet.

I have had the monitor for almost a month now. The pcb is not burnt nor anything is implying damage caused by excessive heat. Couple of "weird" things here though. Capacitors are not "solid" opposed to those blue pcb and they are made by Sam Young which is south korean corporation i believe. They are rated at 85 degrees celcius. I thought that in this kind of electronics they would always be rated at 105 degrees celcius? Anyway, i hope this pcb is of better quality so i don't have to ask the seller for a new one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Karail can you chime in here and let us know how your monitor has been with this pcb.


I've had the monitor about 3 months now and everything seems fine so far. The pcb doesn't show any signs of damage due to excessive heat. I made a chart many pages back comparing the mosfets on this and the teal board and this (VLD0100) green board i have seems far superior. My mind is at ease for now


----------



## Remix65

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Get the normal model. The risk of getting burnt out PCBs is very low.


that depends on the user.
for example for me since i have plenty of non-led monitors, i set monitors to go to sleep after 5 minutes of inactivity. my concern is power consumption. if i had one of these monitors, since they are led, i'd have it set the same but for the sake of prolonging their life.


----------



## mnd99

I'm looking at getting Crossover 27Q-LED.

so this monitor has no OSD?!!!! and I heard that default color temperature is not 6500K? So without osd, how do you change it to 6500K? How would we calibrate the monitor without using some kind of external calibrator?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnd99*
> 
> I'm looking at getting Crossover 27Q-LED.
> so this monitor has no OSD?!!!! and I heard that default color temperature is not 6500K? So without osd, how do you change it to 6500K? How would we calibrate the monitor without using some kind of external calibrator?


use nvidia control panel or amd's


----------



## shortyg83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> use nvidia control panel or amd's


.
You can use the color profiles that have been listed in this thread a bunch of times.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> .
> You can use the color profiles that have been listed in this thread a bunch of times.


that too


----------



## bern43

What sellers are people still using for these, in particular for pixel perfect versions? I'm almost sold on getting one of these, just have this lurking feeling that I should wait for a 120hz model.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> What sellers are people still using for these, in particular for pixel perfect versions? I'm almost sold on getting one of these, just have this lurking feeling that I should wait for a 120hz model.


accessorieswhole and don't buy pixel perfect. it's a waste. and you'll wait forever on 120hz


----------



## nekonet

Could you guys link us a couple of color profiles for the CrossOver 27Q? too many pages to browse


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekonet*
> 
> Could you guys link us a couple of color profiles for the CrossOver 27Q? too many pages to browse


that would mean we would have to go through pages to get it for you then lol

also is a search feature for this thread specifically above...says "search this thread"


----------



## Goatcrapp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> Hi guys, I just need to double check that the 27Q does indeed work with 5870 when windows boots and during BIOS posting, there will be a black screen.


I have the 27q and a 5870... POST and windows boot are all as expected. I can get into BIOS, see the startup splash screen, and etc.


----------



## gezer

I ordered mine tuesday and itarrives this monday!


----------



## Xibal

thanks Goatcrapp, I'll be taking a plunge with BCC as the seller.

EDIT: been digging deeper into this forum, seems some work (see BIOS posting) and some don't.


----------



## nekonet

I know the monitors are korean, but do you guys think they could be on sale this black friday?


----------



## Xibal

Could I please get some feedback on the stands of these monitors, is the pivot stand more sturdy since it has a metal plate as its base or is the non-pivot stand more sturdy since its larger and covers more area?


----------



## F0zzie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekonet*
> 
> I know the monitors are korean, but do you guys think they could be on sale this black friday?


According to their description on ebay they're always on sale









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> Could I please get some feedback on the stands of these monitors, is the pivot stand more sturdy since it has a metal plate as its base or is the non-pivot stand more sturdy since its larger and covers more area?


I have the pivot stand and it's pretty sturdy, my only worry would be if I had to extract the arm all the way open (for vertical use). I don't know how is it compares to the non-pivot one.


----------



## TSXmike

i have the pivot also.

IMO, its pretty sturdy... was totally worth it.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Originally Posted by Cloudz00x*
> 
> The first green PCB boared with only 1 mosfet is problematic just like the blue and teals. Since all 3 have the issue with heat dissipation and then eventually burn out. Now saying anything new won'thave the ability to burn out to. All hardware eventually just goes one 1 or the other. But..... That has 2 mosfets. You want that or the 3rd revision which is what your talking about. The one that Aw also replaces. You can request from greensum to have that revision "if" he can get it, if not just take that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> I'm also in contact with Greensum for a PCB replacement. Which version do you suggest? Many thanks for your help!


Any update on which PCB is the best to have right now?


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> Could I please get some feedback on the stands of these monitors, is the pivot stand more sturdy since it has a metal plate as its base or is the non-pivot stand more sturdy since its larger and covers more area?


I have the non-pivot version and is perfect! Great design of the stand and it's immobile! Perfect in every detail and has a better stand than the pivot version in matter of design.


----------



## Xibal

cheers, guys, i'm still waiting on a reply from BCC, hopefully he gets me back to soon so I can pay for the monitor.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> I have the non-pivot version and is perfect! Great design of the stand and it's immobile! Perfect in every detail and has a better stand than the pivot version in matter of design.


Have to slightly disagree on the standard white base, I never used mine for more than a day but they're relatively flimsy towards the neck, but have a larger base. Both of mine made my monitors slightly unleveled and they look almost warped. May just be my 2 crossovers though.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Have to slightly disagree on the standard white base, I never used mine for more than a day but they're relatively flimsy towards the neck, but have a larger base. Both of mine made my monitors slightly unleveled and they look almost warped. May just be my 2 crossovers though.


Or maybe the exception is my monitor, but believe me that the stand I have is really impressing. Maybe I have received a newer version of the Crosserver? (New logo ecc.) Or also you've got this version?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Or maybe the exception is my monitor, but believe me that the stand I have is really impressing. Maybe I have received a newer version of the Crosserver? (New logo ecc.) Or also you've got this version?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/121010134957?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2cc41fad

I got two of those, one from AW and one from Dream-Seller. Seems to be the current Crossover 27q but can't keep up with the models anymore lol


----------



## D2234

Are any of these monitors below 16ms input lag (Crossover, Yamasaki Catleap, Achieva Shimian, PCBank 3View)?


----------



## Xibal

They all use the same LG panels and are "rated" at 6ms,


----------



## D2234

6 ms input lag? Or response?


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D2234*
> 
> 6 ms input lag? Or response?


I've been using the 2720MDP for about 2 months now. After having played games such as Halo 4, Gears of War 3, Gears of War 1, Modern Warfare 2 & 3, and now Black Ops 2, on the Xbox 360, I can tell you that the input lag has not been a problem for me whatsoever. In fact, my scores have only gone better.


----------



## Xibal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D2234*
> 
> 6 ms input lag? Or response?


it's the response time


----------



## shortyg83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Have to slightly disagree on the standard white base, I never used mine for more than a day but they're relatively flimsy towards the neck, but have a larger base. Both of mine made my monitors slightly unleveled and they look almost warped. May just be my 2 crossovers though.


I have the standard one with white trim. The base is super sturdy. No flimsyness and has a metal plate through it. I can't see how there would ever be an issue with it.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shortyg83*
> 
> I have the standard one with white trim. The base is super sturdy. No flimsyness and has a metal plate through it. I can't see how there would ever be an issue with it.


I'll have to make a video, I can flex mine by just applying force to the monitor itself


----------



## Althulas

Eventually got round to swapping my pcb over









As you can see on the blue pcb some burn marks present but funny thing is the flickering issue settled down while waiting for the replacement green pcb to arrive. I have had no flickering issues for two weeks maybe the cooler ambient temperature for this time of year had some effect.



















A shot of the ad boards with the multi inputs, note the factory installed heat sink.










Serial number for that board if of interest










Replacement PCB two mosfet version in situ










I'll have to see how it goes for the next few weeks and report back if there are any issues.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/121010134957?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2cc41fad
> I got two of those, one from AW and one from Dream-Seller. Seems to be the current Crossover 27q but can't keep up with the models anymore lol


Yeah, I've got the same model, but mine has a new Crossover logo.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Yeah, I've got the same model, but mine has a new Crossover logo.


Yup same logo here on mine, hmmm....


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yup same logo here on mine, hmmm....


Hmm.. that's funny! My stand is so sturdy at first sight you can think it's made with glass! Can you please post some photos about the problem of yours?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Hmm.. that's funny! My stand is so sturdy at first sight you can think it's made with glass! Can you please post some photos about the problem of yours?


Yah I'll post a few pics and quick vid of it tomorrow as I got HW due in a few hours for class AND both are mounted on ergotron wall mounts. We are talking about the white non pivot stand correct?


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yah I'll post a few pics and quick vid of it tomorrow as I got HW due in a few hours for class AND both are mounted on ergotron wall mounts. We are talking about the white non pivot stand correct?


Correct!


----------



## joshfrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshfrai*
> 
> Same issue here. Just got a 27Q for my son, and have been checking it out with my computer - Macbook Air 13" (mid 2012). Started with the Monoprice mini-DisplayPort to Dual DVI cable; all that got me was a second or two of connection and then the screen went black. Switched out that cable for the Official(ly Expensive) Apple version, and that got me to the same screen-cycling issue you described. (Also switched out the DVI cable itself, which didn't have any effect.) Did not have any problems getting a consistent screen image on the Crossover when I tried an older Macbook Pro (mid 2009). Is there something about the Air and Mini that requires a different configuration?
> (By the way: I've been lurking here for I while as I tried to figure out which monitor to buy; appreciate all the information and advice that everyone has supplied. Thanks to all.)


Just thought I'd give an update: based on recommendations here, I went ahead and tried the Accell DisplayPort-DVI adaptor. No luck: that cable produced the same result as the Monoprice cable mentioned above. Of the 3 (!) I've tried, the Apple cable got me closest to an actual usable monitor - but there's still a long way to go. Pardon my continued ignorance, but is it possible the screen-cycling issue could be related to the power brick or adaptor?

thanks


----------



## KCKC

Very helpful advice on here thanks for people posting it all, as i wouldnt of known about blue board issues, just put a bright light close to monitor and can see i have a green and blue board.

Also noticed a bit of raise bubbles on the white paint work, never noticed before until i put light agasint it.

I had some flickering issues when io first got monitor although i dont see it now , this is obviously a concern now that the monitor may go faulty in a few months time.

So do i just ask the seller for a green replacement driver board?

Is it easy to fit?

Worried incase the blue board could end up starting a fire in my home, is that possible?

Not sure if my seller will send it as its not the one people have listed here, if he dont can i buy one on its own from some place?


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshfrai*
> 
> Just thought I'd give an update: based on recommendations here, I went ahead and tried the Accell DisplayPort-DVI adaptor. No luck: that cable produced the same result as the Monoprice cable mentioned above. Of the 3 (!) I've tried, the Apple cable got me closest to an actual usable monitor - but there's still a long way to go. Pardon my continued ignorance, but is it possible the screen-cycling issue could be related to the power brick or adaptor?
> thanks


Are you using a new Apple dual link cable, did you buy it recently? The older ones may have some problems. Something about firmware.


----------



## joshfrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trada101*
> 
> Are you using a new Apple dual link cable, did you buy it recently? The older ones may have some problems. Something about firmware.


Yep, brand new right from the Apple Store last week.


----------



## gezer

YES my Crossover Q27 arrived today, a day late though but it arrived! Will post a review tomorrow. My monitor was freaking out, it was stuttering and flickering pixels but it somehow got resolved by restarting my pc.


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joshfrai*
> 
> Yep, brand new right from the Apple Store last week.


I'm sure you did but just making sure. Did you also plug in the usb (used for power).

You may need to plug it into a desktop with a dual link dvi port to see if it's the monitor.


----------



## xombi

So i'm thinking about ordering a 27Q right away:
How well will my system run Skyrim on Ultra?
i7 920 0c to 3.2
6gb 1333 ram
sapphire 7970 oc 1175/1800
sabertooth x58

Also when contacting the seller, what should i ask for? I've read on this forum to ask for the 2 or 3 MOSFET board, is there anything else?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xombi*
> 
> So i'm thinking about ordering a 27Q right away:
> How well will my system run Skyrim on Ultra?
> i7 920 0c to 3.2
> 6gb 1333 ram
> sapphire 7970 oc 1175/1800
> sabertooth x58


Should run ultra just fine, high def texture pack addons and other enb stuff, and whatnot may drag down the fps a tad so watch out for that.


----------



## joshfrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trada101*
> 
> I'm sure you did but just making sure. Did you also plug in the usb (used for power).
> You may need to plug it into a desktop with a dual link dvi port to see if it's the monitor.


Thanks.

Desktop? What's that...? I did try it with a mid2009 MacBook Pro and it worked, so I can't blame this one on the monitor.


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## joshfrai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ngianos*
> 
> I'm having the same issues and have tried different dual link dvi cables and different minidisplay port to dual link dvi adapters with no luck for my mac mini 2012 or macbook air 2011. The monitor works with my 2009 macbook pro also. The seller (dream-seller) said that the 27Q shouldn't work with the intel 3000 or 4000 but others on here seem to have it work with no issues.


Have you tried switching out the 27Q's power cable, brick or plug adaptor yet? I'm debating whether I'm going to go down that road or just start looking for another monitor.

thanks


----------



## Layo

1000 monitors sold, 400 pages of problems. Well worth it i guess


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## rck1984

About to order a Crossover 27Q LED, later tonight.
Upgrading from 24" 1080p to a 27" 1440p, dunno what exactly to expect but excited about it


----------



## mahiv87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> About to order a Crossover 27Q LED, later tonight.
> Upgrading from 24" 1080p to a 27" 1440p, dunno what exactly to expect but excited about it


you can expect more pixels


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mahiv87*
> 
> you can expect more pixels


Heh, smart


----------



## Spartan F8

I have read this entire thread and decided to go with a crossover blade from AW. I just got my new crossover blade version today. Got it in less than 2 days. AW was very quick to answer all my questions but there was a noticeable lag due to time zones which should be expected.

The stand is a lot like the stand for catleaps where it has the transparent piece that kinda just curves up. The monitor is solid as a rock, it just feels quality made. I do have the newer PCB (green with lots of little things all over it LOL).

When i connected it up to my 570GTX's in SLI and powered on my PC it did show the bios. Once past the bios it automatically loaded to the native 2560x1440 resolution. My colors were a bit yellow on whites (not bad but annoying sitting next to my old monitor) but i fixed this with the 6500k profile and i got say say it was a night and day difference as now the colors are just perfect. I have not been able to test for stuck pixels yet (work stole me away) but i did notice a slight amount of light coming from bottom center. I found that it was being caused by a bit of pressure from the bezel. I kinda pulled on it a bit with pliers covered with a few layers of micro fiber cloth and the light is all but gone (you can very slightly see it if you go all black and look for it). And at any rate the back-light bleed is less than my asus monitor.

My power adapter came with the US plug piece and so far doesn't even hardly get warm. I ran a couple of videos and games on it and did notice something strange for those who are getting this to game. When loading up a game for the first time it may just show up in a little box even if it started in full screen. Switching this to windowed mode and then simply changing it back to full screen fixed it. Movies that were not HD looked like crap (to be expected) movies that were high def looked awesome.

Overall color was just simply amazing and was even throughout the monitor. There was a slight bit of dust in the screen. I fixed this by taking my electric hand sander (this may sound weird) and putting the up to the screen lightly on low settings. This kinda shakes the dust down. Now there is practically none visible.

I have quite a bit more testing to do but so far i would say it is the best monitor by far that i have owned and i have used quite a few monitors while building custom computers for people and my day job. Tonight i am going to run a lot of benchmarks and tests on it and see what i can find out. I will also post up some pics when i get a sec and can pry myself away from it.

So i think i ran into a lot of different issues that others have seen but unless i find a bunch of dead pixels i would say it is all workable and fixeable. Super worth the 800 dollar discount compared to other comparable monitors.

The 1 thing that bothers me for this model is i would very much like to triple monitor these in the future and the bezel on the blade model is not uniform. the bottom is wider that the top. Debezeling may help this but i am not going to try this until i have played with it a while.

This is my first post and i hope i didn't step on anyone's toes. I also hope this was some good info for people thinking about this buy and are wondering about potential issues.


----------



## Spartan F8

BTW when i use the hand sanded i pressed it lightly on the back of the screen. I would think everyone would kinda guess that but i wanted to make sure lol.


----------



## amazing235

Hi-

This is Nancy From AW; Accessorieswhole.

It's been a long time since I brought the issue up on the CrossOver.
Unfortunately, I do not have a good news to share with you.....









We were unable to get more 27inch IPS panel installed monitors in stock and we expect to have last batch of it.
So, Manucaturer and AW is about to going for 30 inch monitors instead of 27 inch monitors.

Currently, we've listed 30Q5 PRO and 30Q5 PRO Black monitors on promotion.

30Q5 PRO BLACK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-30Q5-PRO-BLACK-30-LG-IPS-Q5-2560-1600-WQXGA-16-10-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/110979398983

30Q5 PRO
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-30Q5-PRO-30-LG-IPS-Q5-2560-1600-WQXGA-16-10-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/130806017774

As most of the buyers know about AW's promotion, AW hold on the sales until we out of the stock.
Expected promotion end date will be end of Dec.

I'm also unhappy to introduce this giant 30 inch Q5 panel installed by-pass monitor.
It isn't LED monitor but LCD monitor.

Very sorry for those of you who were waiting for 27Q LED, 27Q LED-P, 27Q LED PP, 27Q LED-P PP and other 27 inch monitors including Yamakasi and Achieva brands too.

If we get more of the 27 inch monitor series, I will announce it on overclock.net at the very first.

Happy Thanks giving days-
I'm going to the Itaewon to have a bite of turkey and cranberry sauce.
(Quite difficult to have traditional Thanks giving day food in Korea. )
Me mssing so much of living in USA. Longing and missing my family back in USA.


----------



## nekonet

quick question guys, whats the difference between 27QD LED BLADE and the 27Q LED, is it only the speakers?


----------



## Mackem

Is there a Catleap that has HDMI, VGA and DVI but doesn't have speakers?


----------



## rck1984

Ordered a pixel perfect Crossover 27Q LED screen today, excited about it. Never owned a IPS screen myself, neither 1440p.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Ordered a pixel perfect Crossover 27Q LED screen today, excited about it. Never owned a IPS screen myself, neither 1440p.


How much did it cost you?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> How much did it cost you?


430 dollar for a pixel perfect one.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yah I'll post a few pics and quick vid of it tomorrow as I got HW due in a few hours for class AND both are mounted on ergotron wall mounts. We are talking about the white non pivot stand correct?


Any update? I'm just curious


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> 430 dollar for a pixel perfect one.


Form which seller? Great choice BTW


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Any update? I'm just curious


Aye it'll be RIGHT after work tomorrow at 3:30pm EST. My long time friends have been in town starting just this past Tuesday and been trying to hang with them as much as possible before they leave Sunday morning.


----------



## Koehler

Here's a teaser for you


















The CrossOver 27Q LED has the most impressive image quality, with the deepest black levels and clear, sharp image. Other panels like the Dell or HP have blurriness and graininess.

One thing's for sure, you'll be very impressed by the image quality that the CrossOver 27Q LED offers.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Form which seller? Great choice BTW


Red-cap. Others known sellers weren't shipping to Netherlands at the time i ordered for some reason.
So far so good, its been picked up by Fedex yesterday. Hopefully it arrives rather sooner than later









I wish i lived in US (sometimes), Free trading agreement with Korea, damn! I still have to pay customs fee as far as i know.


----------



## gezer

Hey guys, I recently received my Crossover 27Q but immediatly stumbled upon problems. I have a pc with a HD6870 Sapphire graphics card, this card has both a single and dual link DVI ports. I connected it to the dual link DVI port with the provided DVI-D cable. *I received no display.* The single link port worked, however the monitor was stuttering. I set it to different resolutions, updated the Catalyst drivers, nothing.

I thought I received a bad cable so I bought a new DVI-D dual link m/m cable but neither did that work.

Just to be sure, I took a picture of the ports:

http://i.imgur.com/dMFRF.jpg

The right one is the dual link dvi-d port right? This is the port that does not work. The left port works.









On this comparison pic it tells me I'm connected to the DVI-I port.

I also took a video, showing the stuttering it gives, took it with my crappy phonecam but what you don't see are flickering white pixels:






Now, is there something I didn't do? Am I supposed to enable the dual link DVI-D somewhere?


----------



## telmedragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently received my Crossover 27Q but immediatly stumbled upon problems. I have a pc with a HD6870 Sapphire graphics card, this card has both a single and dual link DVI ports. I connected it to the dual link DVI port with the provided DVI-D cable. *I received no display.* The single link port worked, however the monitor was stuttering. I set it to different resolutions, updated the Catalyst drivers, nothing.
> I thought I received a bad cable so I bought a new DVI-D dual link m/m cable but neither did that work.
> Just to be sure, I took a picture of the ports:
> http://i.imgur.com/dMFRF.jpg
> The right one is the dual link dvi-d port right? This is the port that does not work. The left port works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On this comparison pic it tells me I'm connected to the DVI-I port.
> I also took a video, showing the stuttering it gives, took it with my crappy phonecam but what you don't see are flickering white pixels:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, is there something I didn't do? Am I supposed to enable the dual link DVI-D somewhere?


According to your picture, both of those ports are Dual-Link DVI's. It seems like the right one is a DVI-D, and your left one is DVI-I. Are you absolutely sure you have a DUAL-LINK DVI cord? Dual-Links have all the pins filled in whereas Single-Links have the gap in between like your picture illustrates.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telmedragon*
> 
> According to your picture, both of those ports are Dual-Link DVI's. It seems like the right one is a DVI-D, and your left one is DVI-I. Are you absolutely sure you have a DUAL-LINK DVI cord? Dual-Links have all the pins filled in whereas Single-Links have the gap in between like your picture illustrates.


Unfortunately, having full pins on the card does not mean it is a dual link port. Most (all?) video cards have all the pin holes regardless of wither the port can really support dual link DVI or not... this is so you can still use a dual link cable.

If you are in a single link port, you should not be able to get a picture even with stuttering. I'm guessing he's in the correct port and the stuttering is some other issue.


----------



## Azefore

Stressed for time atm so here's what I meant when I said the stand is lacking to say the least. Keep in mind this is my better one of two.

I didn't take out the second stand as the only difference is that it's levelness is even more to the left (bobble is in the left third of the level) and it's warped to where the front left bottom corner comes out towards the user.



Here's a video of my just lightly pushing it, I'm a big guy (6'1" @ 235lbs) but I put almost next to no force into the movements of making the monitor wobble, shake, tilt. There's some momentum in some of the seconds but aside from that this is why I wasn't a fan of the stand. It's worse on a desk than on my floor here.


----------



## gezer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telmedragon*
> 
> According to your picture, both of those ports are Dual-Link DVI's. It seems like the right one is a DVI-D, and your left one is DVI-I. Are you absolutely sure you have a DUAL-LINK DVI cord? Dual-Links have all the pins filled in whereas Single-Links have the gap in between like your picture illustrates.


Yes I have tried 2 cables. But I came to the conclusion that my Crossover is faulty, I tried it on another pc and the display was still stuttering. I will send it back. Who pays the shipping fee? Me or the seller?


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Stressed for time atm so here's what I meant when I said the stand is lacking to say the least. Keep in mind this is my better one of two.
> I didn't take out the second stand as the only difference is that it's levelness is even more to the left (bobble is in the left third of the level) and it's warped to where the front left bottom corner comes out towards the user.
> 
> Here's a video of my just lightly pushing it, I'm a big guy (6'1" @ 235lbs) but I put almost next to no force into the movements of making the monitor wobble, shake, tilt. There's some momentum in some of the seconds but aside from that this is why I wasn't a fan of the stand. It's worse on a desk than on my floor here.


Thank you very much for your video! Actually I don't remember all this wobbling, but I have to check tomorrow. BTW if you see on YouTube the wobble of Achieva or Catleap Yamakasi is so much worse.
At the moment what stand are you using? I'd appreciate a suggestion


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Red-cap. Others known sellers weren't shipping to Netherlands at the time i ordered for some reason.
> So far so good, its been picked up by Fedex yesterday. Hopefully it arrives rather sooner than later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish i lived in US (sometimes), Free trading agreement with Korea, damn! I still have to pay customs fee as far as i know.


I've received my Crossover 27Q from DHL last Monday, it's just gorgeous! It has no defective pixels, just a very little issue, but noticeable only with diagnostic system.

I'm sure you'll enjoy your display!!

By the way, I understand your situation about fees and custom taxes... Here in Italy I had to pay 28€! Good news is that in 2010 EU (from an Italian law) have signed and agreement for free trade with South Korea. This might be useful if we need to by a monitor in the next years! Ahah


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> I've received my Crossover 27Q from DHL last Monday, it's just gorgeous! It has no defective pixels, just a very little issue, but noticeable only with diagnostic system.
> I'm sure you'll enjoy your display!!
> By the way, I understand your situation about fees and custom taxes... Here in Italy I had to pay 28€! Good news is that in 2010 EU (from an Italian law) have signed and agreement for free trade with South Korea. This might be useful if we need to by a monitor in the next years! Ahah


Hah









Can't wait for it to arrive and try it out. I just hope I am not getting into all this PCB/MOSFET issue crap... Been reading trough this thread and seen quite some people with defective screens. I haven't noticed this before buying the screen, therefore couldn't ask for a specific PCB.

Though, since this is a known major problem. Aren't the newer revision Crossover 27Q's getting the newer boards with 2 or 3 MOSFETS now, instead of the old blue one that fails for a lot of people? Also, I think to see a pattern that almost everybody that had trouble with the fried MOSFET are from the US. Can't it be related to the electricity from the wall in some way? In combination of poor design on the blue PCB?


----------



## bern43

Ok, lots of questions still.

Does that post a few pages back from AW mean that it's getting really hard to get these panels now? Seemed like they were saying that AW is not going to be carrying the 27inchers any more??

On a somewhat related note, AW has some non pixel-perfect's in-stock but no pixel-perfects. Would it be safe to assume that means that none of the non-pixel perfect models will end up having zero dead pixels? Wouldn't they just sell them for more money as pixel-perfects otherwise?


----------



## Koehler

The wobbling doesn't seem too bad. I've seen Asus monitors that are much worse.


----------



## vietiscool

Just bought a 27QD from Astrobile on Monday night with free shipping for $340. Arrived today, Friday. Amazing shipping speed.

I found out afterwards that I wanted the 27Q because of the white/aluminum back. The 27QD has the more typical hard plastic back. It also has built in speakers that I'm not going to use.

Perfect. No dead pixels or stuck pixels. The top of the bezel had a little metal tab sticking out that covered like one pixel line of the very top of the monitor. I pushed these metal tab back into the bezel and now everything's hunky dory.

Astrobile's shipping is crazy fast and from his listing he has the most stringent dead pixel policy. 1 dead pixel in the center area = faulty, 3 total dead pixels anywhere else = faulty.

One problem is I'm running my old LCD monitor next to my new panel and now I notice a huge brightness difference. Makes it kinda hard to watch movies now on the monitor that I have been using for the past 8 years since I have a better monitor right next to it to compare brightness and color.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Thank you very much for your video! Actually I don't remember all this wobbling, but I have to check tomorrow. BTW if you see on YouTube the wobble of Achieva or Catleap Yamakasi is so much worse.
> At the moment what stand are you using? I'd appreciate a suggestion


Np lol and I wouldn't imagine a more wobbly stand on a bigger monitor like this. I'm currently using an Ergotron MX wall mount but ergotrons are the only stands I have experience with so other than their stuff is an unknown for me


----------



## gezer

How do I send back a monitor? I bought it from AccessoriesWhole but the monitor was faulty.


----------



## Layo

How does the wobbling even matter...? I touch my monitor tops few times a year...


----------



## avatar0

Good day all.

I just got a 27q from Accessoriewhole, and so far it's running perfect.
I do have a question, though.
Does anyone know the setting of the default brightness? Like how many presses it was from the brightest or the darkest?
I was trying to run some tests when I lost the default brightness, and I'd really appreciate a point of reference.

Thanks


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> How does the wobbling even matter...? I touch my monitor tops few times a year...


Never said it does, just said my monitors did on the stock stand and I prefer a quality stand is all.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Never said it does, just said my monitors did on the stock stand and I prefer a quality stand is all.


Most of my monitors wobble when touched.

I don't think this is limited to the Korean monitors lol.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Most of my monitors wobble when touched.
> I don't think this is limited to the Korean monitors lol.


True, not all do though, standard basic apple cinema display was pretty sturdy, as was my 2007wfp when it was still in commission (moment of silence). But yah, the stand's actual rigidity is what irked me, not the actual wobbling itself


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avatar0*
> 
> Good day all.
> I just got a 27q from Accessoriewhole, and so far it's running perfect.
> I do have a question, though.
> Does anyone know the setting of the default brightness? Like how many presses it was from the brightest or the darkest?
> I was trying to run some tests when I lost the default brightness, and I'd really appreciate a point of reference.
> Thanks


Its probably right in the middle, around 8 presses from either the lowest or highest brightness.

I just keep mine on the lowest since that's already too bright for me.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> True, not all do though, standard basic apple cinema display was pretty sturdy, as was my 2007wfp when it was still in commission (moment of silence). But yah, the stand's actual rigidity is what irked me, not the actual wobbling itself


It really depends on the material quality. If it's made purely of aluminum then it will be sturdier than plastic.

I have yet to see a monitor that's made purely of metal. It would be a pretty bad idea.

However there's many disadvantages of aluminum. They are more prone to grease marks from your hand and it's a pain to clean them.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> It really depends on the material quality. If it's made purely of aluminum then it will be sturdier than plastic.
> I have yet to see a monitor that's made purely of metal. It would be a pretty bad idea.
> However there's many disadvantages of aluminum. They are more prone to grease marks from your hand and it's a pain to clean them.


True and true I agree, however all metal monitors have been done such as the Apple 30" Cinema, I have two in the office and they're great, my 27" ACD is almost all metal as is the Crossovers aside from their stands. Cleaning them is easy as well for me thus far, I've only cleaned the aluminum stand on my 27" once since I got it early last October and that was a few mins ago. The 30"s are the same story.


----------



## ngianos

[]


----------



## telmedragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Unfortunately, having full pins on the card does not mean it is a dual link port. Most (all?) video cards have all the pin holes regardless of wither the port can really support dual link DVI or not... this is so you can still use a dual link cable.
> If you are in a single link port, you should not be able to get a picture even with stuttering. I'm guessing he's in the correct port and the stuttering is some other issue.


Thanks for pointing that out. I never really knew that.


----------



## RazielZ

So I wanna get one of these, but I'm not sure if I should go for the 27Q or 2720MDP.
Does the 27Q work with a HDMI <>DVI-DualLink passive adapter, or will I need an active adapter?
The 2720MDP has hdmi and displayport and apparently better brightness, but the pixel perfect versions are much more expensive, so I could only get a non-pixel perfect one.
Is the 2720MDP worth it over the 27Q without the pixel perfect guarantee? And is the build quality better/worse than the 27Q?


----------



## evilferret

Hey all, sorry for the bother.

Hoping to order one of these for myself.

Looking at the new 27Q in white (or the black one, but assuming the white will be newer).

Which vendors are recommended and I'm guessing not all vendors provide the right, brick.

Worth paying the premium for prefect pixel?

Also do all vendors now have the current PCB?

Thanks and sorry for all the questions. Barely through this huge thread.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Hey all, sorry for the bother.
> Hoping to order one of these for myself.
> Looking at the new 27Q in white (or the black one, but assuming the white will be newer).
> Which vendors are recommended and I'm guessing not all vendors provide the right, brick.
> Worth paying the premium for prefect pixel?
> Also do all vendors now have the current PCB?
> Thanks and sorry for all the questions. Barely through this huge thread.


Vendors I have seen mentioned a lot are: Accessorieswhole, bigclothcraft, green-sum and Red-cap. It depends on the rules of the seller if it's worth it to go for a pixel perfect or not. AW for example, guarantees a maximum of one dead/stuck pixel as far as I understood, no big deal paying premium in that case I guess. Though, I ordered a pixel perfect myself.

My screen is still on the way, arriving one of these days. I asked my seller, Red-cap if these newer revisions have the green PCB by now, instead of the faulty blue ones. He answered me that he doesn't know for sure if they contain the green ones now or not. However, if the overheating problem occurs, he will send a green PCB over. (little suspicious though, sounds like Crossovers are still being sold with the blue PCB as well.)

Good luck


----------



## evilferret

Do the other korean monitors have this issue with overheating?

I was going for the crossover for looks but I rather have reliability.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Do the other korean monitors have this issue with overheating?
> I was going for the crossover for looks but I rather have reliability.


Not sure, try asking in the other clubs on OCN. I am sure they can give you a straight answer.

Also, i am wondering..
People who recently bought there Crossover screens. When did you ordered and recieved it and what PCB did you get? Blue or green? I actually want to know if these still ship with blue PCB's.


----------



## bern43

Still going back and forth on one of these and asked bigclothcraft about the PCB issue and he said that the main one is blue and the other three are green. That sounds like the wrong one to me. YMMV.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bern43*
> 
> Still going back and forth on one of these and asked bigclothcraft about the PCB issue and he said that the main one is blue and the other three are green. That sounds like the wrong one to me. YMMV.


As far as i know, the mainboard is always blue. Before on the older and faulty monitors, the LED PCB (on the right side, facing the backside of the screen as far as i understood) is the one that has a potential of overheating. People who reported their screens to be overheating, had in fact the blue PCB. Replacing this one by a green PCB with more than one mosfet seemed to solve the problem.

So... again, as far as i know. Your good when you have one with a blue PCB mainboard and the other PCB's in green.

What i want to know is, of the people that recently bought and received their monitors. When did you order/recieved it and what color LED PCB do you have? Crossover should be aware of this issue by now, since so many people got into overheating mosfet trouble. Hopefully they're shipping their screen with just the green PCB now, and not the faulty blue one. The answer Red-cap gave me, wasn't really promising, he told me he didn't knew if all the newer Crossovers have the new green PCB or still the blue one.


----------



## johnwillyums

Hi folks.

I've had my 2720MDP for about 3 weeks now and I'm loving it. However, I now have one, possibly two, issues. Last week I noticed I had a slight flicker at the very top of the screen. It seems to be a whole top line flickering, but it is only really noticeable at the top left corner. There seems to be a slight "wobble" at this top left corner, causing the top tabs on my browser to flicker slightly.
I replaced the power lead, changing the Korean plug+UK adapter for a regular UK power lead. This has made an improvement, but the problem remains.
Also, I note people talking about their power bricks getting warm. Mine gets hot quite quickly. It is not too hot to touch but not far off. I have used the monitor for several hours at a time, and it doesn't get any hotter, but it is hotter than most other people seem to be talking about.

So, do people think I have a problem with this flicker? Is there a cure?, and should I be worried about my hot power brick?

Thanks folks, john Williams


----------



## twerk

Hey guys, I was looking at buying a Crossover 27Q but then I saw that there are other models. Can someone give me a quick rundown on the difference between the 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED and the 2720MDP GOLD LED and which is best? Thank you in advance


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndyM95*
> 
> Hey guys, I was looking at buying a Crossover 27Q but then I saw that there are other models. Can someone give me a quick rundown on the difference between the 27Q LED/LED-P, 27M LED and the 2720MDP GOLD LED and which is best? Thank you in advance


First page of this thread, gives you an overview of all possible models with their spec's.
In short: 27Q LED is the regular one, 27Q LED-P is the pivot one where the screen can be put in portrait mode, 27M LED is the multi input one that has HDMI and such.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> First page of this thread, gives you an overview of all possible models with their spec's.
> In short: 27Q LED is the regular one, 27Q LED-P is the pivot one where the screen can be put in portrait mode, 27M LED is the multi input one that has HDMI and such.


Exactly, and the 2720MDP GOLD LED is a total different model, made in plastic (not metal) and with different stand, firmware ecc. I suggest you to go with the Crossover 27Q, but hurry up since this business is at the end.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Exactly, and the 2720MDP GOLD LED is a total different model, made in plastic (not metal) and with different stand, firmware ecc. I suggest you to go with the Crossover 27Q, but hurry up since this business is at the end.


You received your monitor last week right? What color LED PCB do you have? The blue or the newer green one?


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Hah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait for it to arrive and try it out. I just hope I am not getting into all this PCB/MOSFET issue crap... Been reading trough this thread and seen quite some people with defective screens. I haven't noticed this before buying the screen, therefore couldn't ask for a specific PCB.
> Though, since this is a known major problem. Aren't the newer revision Crossover 27Q's getting the newer boards with 2 or 3 MOSFETS now, instead of the old blue one that fails for a lot of people? Also, I think to see a pattern that almost everybody that had trouble with the fried MOSFET are from the US. Can't it be related to the electricity from the wall in some way? In combination of poor design on the blue PCB?


Dear european friend, is your "present" arrived?








BTW yes, new models have new (green) PCB without the overheating problem. About the connection between this kind of trouble and the US voltage, I don't have many evidences to tell you it's right. However if you're tell me that most of the users who complaint about this problem are from US, well, good work Sherlock!








But in this case I guess you prefer to pay Euro custom fees, than have this US voltage issue!


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> You received your monitor last week right? What color LED PCB do you have? The blue or the newer green one?


Green one


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Dear european friend, is your "present" arrived?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW yes, new models have new (green) PCB without the overheating problem. About the connection between this kind of trouble and the US voltage, I don't have many evidences to tell you it's right. However if you're tell me that most of the users who complaint about this problem are from US, well, good work Sherlock!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But in this case I guess you prefer to pay Euro custom fees, than have this US voltage issue!


Hah









No haven't received my "present" yet, i'm like spamming F5 on Fedex tracking to see where it is







It's on its way from GUANGZHOU CHINA to Europe now as far as i understand, shouldn't take too long anymore before it arrives in Holland.

I just really hope all the new models have the green PCB, don't want to end up with hassle of replacing the blue with a green. I asked my seller if he knew if my screen had a blue or green PCB and he could not tell me, (was shipped already) but something tells me from his answer that not all models are being shipped with a green one nowadays... Ill see i guess, i just really hope i am getting a proper working screen with a green PCB









And oh yes! Custom fee it is


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Exactly, and the 2720MDP GOLD LED is a total different model, made in plastic (not metal) and with different stand, firmware ecc. I suggest you to go with the Crossover 27Q, but hurry up since this business is at the end.


The LED-P is the one that can be overclocked. What does the GOLD mean?


----------



## telmedragon

Still waiting on my CrossOver to come, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me the best screw length to use for the VESA mount?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telmedragon*
> 
> Still waiting on my CrossOver to come, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me the best screw length to use for the VESA mount?


Couldn't quite tell you the length but it needs to be short if the mounting plate is thin, the ones that came with my ergotron arms made contact with the main PCBs. Went to my local hardware store and bought the smallest metric screws I could find. I'll lurk around for the size and post tomorrow when I get up.


----------



## telmedragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Couldn't quite tell you the length but it needs to be short if the mounting plate is thin, the ones that came with my ergotron arms made contact with the main PCBs. Went to my local hardware store and bought the smallest metric screws I could find. I'll lurk around for the size and post tomorrow when I get up.


Oh ok I get it. I've never used a mount before so I didn't know. So you're saying that it would just depend on my monitor arm whether I needed really short screws or not right?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telmedragon*
> 
> Oh ok I get it. I've never used a mount before so I didn't know. So you're saying that it would just depend on my monitor arm whether I needed really short screws or not right?


That's correct, the mounting plates on my ergotrons is like 1mm of steel so the screws it came with were unaffected by its thickness and resulted in hitting the PCB.


----------



## rck1984

My screen is going all across the globe, but does not getting any closer to Holland.

From BUSAN Korea to GUANGZHOU China to NARITA-SHI in Japan.
Estimated delivery date is tomorrow 28th November, they have to hurry if they want to make that happen...


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> My screen is going all across the globe, but does not getting any closer to Holland.
> From BUSAN Korea to GUANGZHOU China to NARITA-SHI in Japan.
> Estimated delivery date is tomorrow 28th November, they have to hurry if they want to make that happen...


What is the shipping company? DHL or FedEx?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> What is the shipping company? DHL or FedEx?


Fedex


----------



## telemach

got my LED-P and there is a problem, please check following pictures





































it's not dead pixel, looks like a punch

most annoying on white


----------



## Crazy9000

I remember the guy doing the overlord displays got a few RMA's for that, but when he plugged them into his test setup the issue didn't appear. Not sure what it is.


----------



## Jabra

Im interested to buy one Crossover 27" 2560X1440 16:9 LED Monitor, but is there good changes to get 80-100Hz, if I don't buy monitor from 120hz.net, with big boost on price.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabra*
> 
> Im interested to buy one Crossover 27" 2560X1440 16:9 LED Monitor, but is there good changes to get 80-100Hz, if I don't buy monitor from 120hz.net, with big boost on price.


As far as i know, all Crossover monitors are locked at 60Hz. Yamakasi Catleaps (revision 2B) were the only screens capable of overclocking. However, its very difficult getting your hands on 2B's as of today.


----------



## Jabra

If somebody here have Yamakasi Catleaps (revision 2B) available, Im interested to buy one!
Please email me,
[email protected]
I live in Finland.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Do the other korean monitors have this issue with overheating?
> I was going for the crossover for looks but I rather have reliability.


No overheating issues reported so far.


----------



## telemach

got problem, turned off and on the panel and signal is gone only backlight


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> No overheating issues reported so far.


Eh I'm getting more confused.

Was about to order from green-sum but he has a warning about certain models and all the ones I was looking at are on it.

Kinda making me want to just order the cheapest IPS w/ pixel prefect.

Question for people, do you guys think the sellers bin the monitors (those who "test" them)? Especially those who offer pixel prefect.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Eh I'm getting more confused.
> Was about to order from green-sum but he has a warning about certain models and all the ones I was looking at are on it.
> Kinda making me want to just order the cheapest IPS w/ pixel prefect.
> Question for people, do you guys think the sellers bin the monitors (those who "test" them)? Especially those who offer pixel prefect.


What do you mean? Pixel perfect guarantee basically selects a monitor with no dead pixels. If they find one with dead pixels, they will most likely dispose of them.


----------



## Talyen42

New CrossOver 27Q owner here. (non-PP version, 1 dead pixel in the bottom right, not even visible from my chair! very happy!)

I currently use a 144hz Asus 27" 1080p for gaming and my CrossOver 27Q for everything else. The CrossOver feels perfect, crisp and responsive on the desktop, browsing the web, and in other non-gaming activities.

I was curious what gaming would be like on the CrossOver, so I tried it out. Running BLOPS2 at 150+ FPS felt reaaaaally sluggish. I figured it was just the shock of returning to 60hz from 144, so I switched the Asus to 60hz mode for comparison. 1440p was still extremely sluggish, but my frame rate never dipped below 100. I switched the CrossOver to 1080p to compare the same resolution, refresh rate, and fps to narrow down the issue. It still felt very sluggish, but I have no quantificable way (hz/ms/fps) to describe what's happening.

Is this input lag? I can't detect any input lag when moving the mouse around between the two monitors at 60hz. I don't have the multi-input model, so I wouldn't expect input lag to be an issue given the benchmarks i've seen in this thread.

Is this "ghosting"? I've never experienced ghosting before, so i'm not sure what to look for. I've seen pictures depict ghosting, but while the game is in motion it's tough to tell.

Any ideas?


----------



## Z1Gm0ND

Good day!
I bought the monitor Crossover 27Q LED-P. In Windows 8 works fine.
But the other operating system is OSX 10.8.2. When the OSX kernel panic occurs. Has anyone faced a similar problem?

Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-M PRO
Video: AMD Sapphire HD6850

P.S. With monitor acer v243hq works fine.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Hey guys, brought my personal review on the CrossOver to OCN forums instead of it being exclusively on Evga.
Here it is: http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors

It should be able to answer any questions you may have when buying or preparing to buy these Korean Monitors. I will also be answering anything on that thread as well as here. Enjoy!


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talyen42*
> 
> New CrossOver 27Q owner here. (non-PP version, 1 dead pixel in the bottom right, not even visible from my chair! very happy!)
> I currently use a 144hz Asus 27" 1080p for gaming and my CrossOver 27Q for everything else. The CrossOver feels perfect, crisp and responsive on the desktop, browsing the web, and in other non-gaming activities.
> I was curious what gaming would be like on the CrossOver, so I tried it out. Running BLOPS2 at 150+ FPS felt reaaaaally sluggish. I figured it was just the shock of returning to 60hz from 144, so I switched the Asus to 60hz mode for comparison. 1440p was still extremely sluggish, but my frame rate never dipped below 100. I switched the CrossOver to 1080p to compare the same resolution, refresh rate, and fps to narrow down the issue. It still felt very sluggish, but I have no quantificable way (hz/ms/fps) to describe what's happening.
> Is this input lag? I can't detect any input lag when moving the mouse around between the two monitors at 60hz. I don't have the multi-input model, so I wouldn't expect input lag to be an issue given the benchmarks i've seen in this thread.
> Is this "ghosting"? I've never experienced ghosting before, so i'm not sure what to look for. I've seen pictures depict ghosting, but while the game is in motion it's tough to tell.
> Any ideas?


I'd probably recommend posting your own topic for this, but I'll give it a shot... So you've tested both the Asus and the Crossover at 1080p and 60hz, and the Crossover still feels "sluggish" compared?

Some things to narrow down what "sluggish" means: Try capping FPS at 30. Does it feel more "sluggish", or just laggy due to the low framerate? I'd also recommend running the Crossover at its native 2560x1440 in all tests possible; since these screens don't have scalers, your video card will have to scale the 1080p image up to 2560x1440 in order for the crossover to display it. This inserts a third factor that's probably worse then a resolution difference.

I don't specifically know any tests for input lag... If I was trying myself I'd probably drag the view quickly and stop the mouse, then see if I could notice a lag behind either starting or stopping... this type of test would be subject to accidental bias though... if you think the crossover is lagging, you might be able to start seeing lag that isn't really there.


----------



## telmedragon

Alright I can officially join the club! My CrossOver arrived today but I didn't get a chance to mess with it until after class.

I purchased it from dream-seller on Nov. 23rd, and it got to me on Nov. 28th. Not the fastest but not so slow either =).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Box handles were a bit ripped, but that's reasonable. Overall the box was in good condition.


Good amount of padding and foam




I believe this is the Green PCB, correct me if I'm wrong.




Power supply that came with it.


Can anyone tell me what this is? It only appears when it's all black, but it's like a blue glow. Like something is leaking?


I think it's a bit of backlight bleed, or just some moderate glow. It doesn't bother me much so I'm good.




These two pictures are of a spec of dust I think. or maybe a cluster of bad pixels. I can't tell because it's a bit fuzzy. The other dead pixel I had was too hard to get a picture of. Honestly these don't bother me too much to send it back to Korea at this point.



Some MilkDrops action. The monitor next to is is a Samsung SyncMaster P2770, I'm enjoying the CrossOver more though due to the sheer amount of real-estate. The Samsung is also very warm in it's colors and it's been bothering me for some time now.



All in all I'm pretty happy with my purchase. I'm a little bummed out that I had a few defects, but I can't complain much for what I bought it for. I'm probably going to buy from a different seller next time though and see how that goes.


----------



## amazing235

Hi,
This is Nancy from Accessorieswhole.

About 27 inch monitors from CrossOver,
We expect to have last batch of 27 inch monitors soon due to shortage of IPS panel increased its panel price insanely.
CrossOver managed to procure over 1,000 panels and it is on process to produce more 27 inch monitors.
Both manufacturer and sellers are ready to sell 30 inch monitors which has Q5 panels; not IPS panel with LED.

I'm not so sure that I should be so honest to announce all matters with buyers/potential buyers but i'm trying to be frank with you.

As some of OCN members noticed about our seasons sale of newly launched 30Q5 PRO and 30Q5 PRO Black monitors,
These monitors will be the best alternative models for 27Q LED, 27Q LED-P monitors.
Because, 30Q5 models also do not have AD board, which you know, it can be only connected with compatible graphic card (Not motherboard) support DVI-D Dual link, since 30Q5 models only have one display port; DVI-D.

Most of Korea manufactured monitors without AD boards shall not be so compatible with laptop and any of Mac series.
So, it is very crucial to check your graphic card before purchase.

For now, it will be the first and may be the last chance to get 30Q5 models at discounted price due to that we only offer this promotion for only last for limited quantity.
Once we get last batch of 27 inch monitors and sold out, I expect that 30Q5 model price will increased by its supply and demand.

Yamakasi has changed their return policy, so Yamakasi monitors does not include pixel perfect versions, and will not cover the defective pixel for return/refund.
Yamakasi has been announced that only over 5 bright pixels (Not including dead,sub or stuck pixels) can be considered for defective pixels.

Acheiva has suffered from shortage of IPS panel to continue their production for 27 inch monitors.
Acheiva is considering to continue Achieva LITE monitor production only, but it is not confirmed and announced publicly.

Still, I receive many questions and enquiries about backlight bleed, due to IPS panel characteristics, IPS panel has backlight bleed.
So, please mind this before you proceed your purchase.

Hopefully, by next week, more of 27 inch monitors will be on sales but not in discounted price, maintain its price near $400.

I recently received request of selling green PCB boards, but Accessorieswhole only provide Green PCB, power adapter and necessary supplies to buyers who purchased their monitors from Accessorieswhole.
Because buyers from AW deserve better services for what they paid for. ( you know, AW sales price is higher than other sellers to make service and product quality differences).
I'm sorry to get enquiries from, but it will be unfair to provide same services to others.
Please contact the seller who you've purchased your monitor from. I shall keep PCB, power adapter and cables for my clients.

Sincerely appreciate all concerns, great patience and kind cooperation with AW.


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> What do you mean? Pixel perfect guarantee basically selects a monitor with no dead pixels. If they find one with dead pixels, they will most likely dispose of them.


So no binning while testing the monitors?

While testing a non PP monitor, if they ran into one that is will they send it out or save it for somebody who'll pay PP prices?

Been looking for truth worthy sellers who don't sell PP versions since I'm assuming they just pick it up from the warehouse and ship it out to you.

Thanks, guess I needed to revise my question.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> What do you mean? Pixel perfect guarantee basically selects a monitor with no dead pixels. If they find one with dead pixels, they will most likely dispose of them.


I guarantee that they don't do this. If they find one that isn't perfect pixel, they sell it. As a monitor without prefect pixel.


----------



## Descadent

edit: No longer going to sell atm due to fees and shipping costs...maybe a little down the road. thanks for inquries


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> If anyone is interested in purchasing gently used crossovers and one evga 670 4gb please pm me. Looking to sell two of Crossovers. I don't have the rep to actually post a sale on ocn and I can do the sale through ebay/paypal or amazon and I will only sell/ship to the U.S.
> Nothing wrong with them, no dead pixels(and they were not pixel perfect models)...minimal light bleed and I still have original boxes. Originally bought from Accessorieswhole I have some other things I would like to buy and I could use the money from the monitors, plus I have a baby on the way.
> So pm please, price will depend on your location with shipping. I can provide pictures and I have posted a bunch in this forum and in this thread.


Just a heads up Descadent, mod will take the post or edit the selling bits out, happened to me when I was going to sell mine as well, tried my hardest to keep pumping out posts for rep


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Just a heads up Descadent, mod will take the post or edit the selling bits out, happened to me when I was going to sell mine as well, tried my hardest to keep pumping out posts for rep


yeah figured that might happen lol.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Hi,
> This is Nancy from Accessorieswhole.
> About 27 inch monitors from CrossOver,
> We expect to have last batch of 27 inch monitors soon due to shortage of IPS panel increased its panel price insanely.
> CrossOver managed to procure over 1,000 panels and it is on process to produce more 27 inch monitors.
> Both manufacturer and sellers are ready to sell 30 inch monitors which has Q5 panels; not IPS panel with LED.
> I'm not so sure that I should be so honest to announce all matters with buyers/potential buyers but i'm trying to be frank with you.
> As some of OCN members noticed about our seasons sale of newly launched 30Q5 PRO and 30Q5 PRO Black monitors,
> These monitors will be the best alternative models for 27Q LED, 27Q LED-P monitors.
> Because, 30Q5 models also do not have AD board, which you know, it can be only connected with compatible graphic card (Not motherboard) support DVI-D Dual link, since 30Q5 models only have one display port; DVI-D.
> Most of Korea manufactured monitors without AD boards shall not be so compatible with laptop and any of Mac series.
> So, it is very crucial to check your graphic card before purchase.
> For now, it will be the first and may be the last chance to get 30Q5 models at discounted price due to that we only offer this promotion for only last for limited quantity.
> Once we get last batch of 27 inch monitors and sold out, I expect that 30Q5 model price will increased by its supply and demand.
> Yamakasi has changed their return policy, so Yamakasi monitors does not include pixel perfect versions, and will not cover the defective pixel for return/refund.
> Yamakasi has been announced that only over 5 bright pixels (Not including dead,sub or stuck pixels) can be considered for defective pixels.
> Acheiva has suffered from shortage of IPS panel to continue their production for 27 inch monitors.
> Acheiva is considering to continue Achieva LITE monitor production only, but it is not confirmed and announced publicly.
> Still, I receive many questions and enquiries about backlight bleed, due to IPS panel characteristics, IPS panel has backlight bleed.
> So, please mind this before you proceed your purchase.
> Hopefully, by next week, more of 27 inch monitors will be on sales but not in discounted price, maintain its price near $400.
> I recently received request of selling green PCB boards, but Accessorieswhole only provide Green PCB, power adapter and necessary supplies to buyers who purchased their monitors from Accessorieswhole.
> Because buyers from AW deserve better services for what they paid for. ( you know, AW sales price is higher than other sellers to make service and product quality differences).
> I'm sorry to get enquiries from, but it will be unfair to provide same services to others.
> Please contact the seller who you've purchased your monitor from. I shall keep PCB, power adapter and cables for my clients.
> Sincerely appreciate all concerns, great patience and kind cooperation with AW.


Glad to hear your getting another shipment of 27Q LEd and P versions. The 30Q5 monitors look nice but losing the LED ability just doesn't seem like a good trade off. An over all good monitor especially since I've seen some individuals already with these in eyeinfinty. Damn.


----------



## user33

I had just ordered 2 CrossOver 27Q LED-P from eBay, and I am joining the club today!

I had skimmed through many pages of this thread, but to be honest, it would would take anyone a very long time to read all 369 pages of posts to find the answers one needs, so I hope some of you seasoned club members can answer my noob question:

I have Intel i5 3750k Ivy Bridge CPU (which has Intel HD Graphics 4000 GPU), with ASRock Z77 Extreme4 MB that has DVI, DP, and HDMI ports for the GPU, is it possible to buy a converter for either DP-to-DVI or HDMI-to-DVI, so that I can drive 2 27Q monitors, one with native DVI, the other with a DVI converter, using just the Ivy Bridge GPU, without buying an additional graphics card?

I am not using the monitor for gaming, nor for playing movies/videos, nor for photoshop/graphics-design-work, just for web browsing and excel spreadsheets, hence I have no need to buy a high-end graphics card, and if I can run 2 monitors off Ivy Bridge GPU, I would not even need to buy a graphics card.

Thanks!


----------



## rck1984

Received my Crossover 27Q LED today from Red-cap.
What can i say?! The picture is truly amazing, real stunning! Zero dead or stuck pixels and minimum back-light bleeding.

My girlfriend is getting her 27 inch iMac as soon as it releases. Looking forward to see the two next to each other, i doubt the A+ screens from Apple have even better picture then these.
One small con though.. The metal of the upper right corner is a little bend, probably happened while shipping. But if i dont tell, people wont even notice.

Oh, and i don't know yet if i have the green or the blue PCB. I tried looking trough the backside, but i cant see anything. There is some kind off foam in the way.
Ill see if i can disassemble it later on, to check what colour PCB i have.

Very happy with my purchase, worth every penny!


----------



## Arbsy

It states that these monitors will not work with a radeon HD 5870 which I find hard to believe. Is anyone running one of these monitors with a 5870? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arbsy*
> 
> It states that these monitors will not work with a radeon HD 5870 which I find hard to believe. Is anyone running one of these monitors with a 5870? Any help would be appreciated.


I would look up your specific model and see if it has dual link ports. I swear I ran my zr30w over DVI on my 5870's, so I don't see why it wouldn't work.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I had just ordered 2 CrossOver 27Q LED-P from eBay, and I am joining the club today!
> I had skimmed through many pages of this thread, but to be honest, it would would take anyone a very long time to read all 369 pages of posts to find the answers one needs, so I hope some of you seasoned club members can answer my noob question:
> I have Intel i5 3750k Ivy Bridge CPU (which has Intel HD Graphics 4000 GPU), with ASRock Z77 Extreme4 MB that has DVI, DP, and HDMI ports for the GPU, is it possible to buy a converter for either DP-to-DVI or HDMI-to-DVI, so that I can drive 2 27Q monitors, one with native DVI, the other with a DVI converter, using just the Ivy Bridge GPU, without buying an additional graphics card?
> I am not using the monitor for gaming, nor for playing movies/videos, nor for photoshop/graphics-design-work, just for web browsing and excel spreadsheets, hence I have no need to buy a high-end graphics card, and if I can run 2 monitors off Ivy Bridge GPU, I would not even need to buy a graphics card.
> Thanks!


I did a little research online and found some helpful information, that I thought might also be helpful to the members:

from http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3255753 :
Quote:


> It supports up to three, 2560 x 1600 monitors. The output format is DisplayPort, the successor to DVI (who wants those thick DVI cables anyway?).
> 
> Here's a page that describes it:
> http://www.techspot.com/review/523-ivy-bridge-intel-core-i7-3770k/page2.html


From http://www.techspot.com/review/523-ivy-bridge-intel-core-i7-3770k/page2.html :
Quote:


> Besides the increased resolution support (up to 2560x1600 from 1920x1200 previously), the new Intel HD graphics now support triple monitors. The Sandy Bridge processors were limited to dual displays much like Nvidia graphics cards. However the new Ivy Bridge graphics can simultaneously support three displays which is a nice upgrade.


I will test the DVI connection on HD 4000 first once I received the monitors, some posters on dpreview said that the DVI port of HD 4000 does not support Dual-Link DVI, others said it does, so I just had to test it myself, I guess.

At least one good news from the above quotes is that the DP of HD 4000 will support the full 2560x1440, but I still hope that the DVI port of HD 4000 would also support Dual-Link DVI.

I would appreciate if anyone with Ivy Bridge CPU setup would comment on the above speculations.


----------



## Arbsy

It does have dual link dvi inputs...2 of them i believe. It says the 5850 will work but not the 5870 which is a superior GPU.


----------



## Crazy9000

Sounds like you can't get into the BIOS on some 5870 cards:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/680#post_16998259


----------



## Arbsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Sounds like you can't get into the BIOS on some 5870 cards:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/680#post_16998259


hmmm, I suppose if I ever really needed to get into the BIOS I could plug in another monitor


----------



## telmedragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arbsy*
> 
> hmmm, I suppose if I ever really needed to get into the BIOS I could plug in another monitor


I think you'll be fine. I'm using an NVidia GTX 88000 and that's nowhere on the list either =).


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I did a little research online and found some helpful information, that I thought might also be helpful to the members:
> from http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3255753 :
> From http://www.techspot.com/review/523-ivy-bridge-intel-core-i7-3770k/page2.html :
> I will test the DVI connection on HD 4000 first once I received the monitors, some posters on dpreview said that the DVI port of HD 4000 does not support Dual-Link DVI, others said it does, so I just had to test it myself, I guess.
> At least one good news from the above quotes is that the DP of HD 4000 will support the full 2560x1440, but I still hope that the DVI port of HD 4000 would also support Dual-Link DVI.
> I would appreciate if anyone with Ivy Bridge CPU setup would comment on the above speculations.


UPDATE:

My further research indicates that the HD4000 is a no go.

I ordered this card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130788 to drive the 2 27q-led-p monitors, problem solved.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Received my Crossover 27Q LED today from Red-cap.
> What can i say?! The picture is truly amazing, real stunning! Zero dead or stuck pixels and minimum back-light bleeding.
> My girlfriend is getting her 27 inch iMac as soon as it releases. Looking forward to see the two next to each other, i doubt the A+ screens from Apple have even better picture then these.
> One small con though.. The metal of the upper right corner is a little bend, probably happened while shipping. But if i dont tell, people wont even notice.
> Oh, and i don't know yet if i have the green or the blue PCB. I tried looking trough the backside, but i cant see anything. There is some kind off foam in the way.
> Ill see if i can disassemble it later on, to check what colour PCB i have.
> Very happy with my purchase, worth every penny!


They look the same as the apple screen. The only problem with these screens are you might get a few stuck pixel after a while or its there but you cant tell. I had mine and after an hour i had 12 stuck pixel and 4 dead pixel which was there from the beginning after testing that is. Or you can be one of the lucky ones. They are very good screens but in the long run you might get a few problems with the pcb dies after few months or backlight and when the 1 year is up they wont send you one for free you will have to buy one off them that's if they sell it or have stock left for that model. But if you don't care about the long run then its fine getting these screens. I will be getting the new dell 27 model since there not that much if you compare the perfect pixel ones sell for £280 to £320 and you can get the dell for around £450 to £500 now that's like adding another £170 or something like that but you will get a peace of mind in the long run if something was to go wrong. Try this link to see if you have any stuck pixel or dead pixel you will have to be very close to see if you have any stuck or dead pixel

http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> They look the same as the apple screen. The only problem with these screens are you might get a few stuck pixel after a while or its there but you cant tell. I had mine and after an hour i had 12 stuck pixel and 4 dead pixel which was there from the beginning after testing that is. Or you can be one of the lucky ones. They are very good screens but in the long run you might get a few problems with the pcb dies after few months or backlight and when the 1 year is up they wont send you one for free you will have to buy one off them that's if they sell it or have stock left for that model. But if you don't care about the long run then its fine getting these screens. I will be getting the new dell 27 model since there not that much if you compare the perfect pixel ones sell for £280 to £320 and you can get the dell for around £450 to £500 now that's like adding another £170 or something like that but you will get a peace of mind in the long run if something was to go wrong. Try this link to see if you have any stuck pixel or dead pixel you will have to be very close to see if you have any stuck or dead pixel
> http://jasonfarrell.com/misc/deadpixeltest.php


I did run that "test" before, not a single stuck/dead pixel i can find.
I have to say i ordered a pixel perfect one though.

I do, however have some back-light bleeding but its minimal, only in the upper left corner there is some bleeding visible, but not much at all.
I have heard of Apple and Dell screens that had bleeding issues. Bleeding is part of these screens, not much you can do about it. Every screen will eventually have some, but some more then other.
It doesn't bother me, i mean... What can you complain about, paying 400$ for a screen usually worth 3 times as much.

I have read about the PCB/MOSFET overheating on blue PCB's. I already contacted Red-cap about it and he will provide me a new PCB if needed.
Heck, I haven't had the time to check if i even have the new green PCB, or still the blue "faulty" one. I will take a look at it tomorrow.

I am very satisfied until now, zero dead/stuck pixels, minimal back-light bleeding and my adapter isn't getting crazy warm at all unlike others.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I did run that "test" before, not a single stuck/dead pixel i can find.
> I have to say i ordered a pixel perfect one though.
> I do, however have some back-light bleeding but its minimal, only in the upper left corner there is some bleeding visible, but not much at all.
> I have heard of Apple and Dell screens that had bleeding issues. Bleeding is part of these screens, not much you can do about it. Every screen will eventually have some, but some more then other.
> It doesn't bother me, i mean... What can you complain about, paying 400$ for a screen usually worth 3 times as much.
> I have read about the PCB/MOSFET overheating on blue PCB's. I already contacted Red-cap about it and he will provide me a new PCB if needed.
> Heck, I haven't had the time to check if i even have the new green PCB, or still the blue "faulty" one. I will take a look at it tomorrow.
> I am very satisfied until now, zero dead/stuck pixels, minimal back-light bleeding and my adapter isn't getting crazy warm at all unlike others.


Yeah all of these ips display like apple,dell,hp has back-light bleeding so that's just normal and some has more then others. Apart from that they are very good display and i loved mine when i had it. It's a shame i had to send my one back and they gave me a refund and not a replacement. I love a glossy display then a matte screen etc. Your right about $400 you really can't complain about that. Hope your one last long and never has any problems. Also download the ICC profile of Cloudz00x His profile is the best check it out its a few page back


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Yeah all of these ips display like apple,dell,hp has back-light bleeding so that's just normal and some has more then others. Apart from that they are very good display and i loved mine when i had it. It's a shame i had to send my one back and they gave me a refund and not a replacement. I love a glossy display then a matte screen etc. Your right about $400 you really can't complain about that. Hope your one last long and never has any problems. Also download the ICC profile of Cloudz00x His profile is the best check it out its a few page back


Had that profile running already







Thanks for the heads up!


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Had that profile running already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up!


No problem. Check out skyrim with mods it looks amazing. I have to wait till next month before i can buy the dell u2713hm hope its not that bad with the ag coating and it looks good like the glossy screen crossover


----------



## telmedragon

Do any of you guys know what this is or how to fix it?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telmedragon*
> 
> 
> Do any of you guys know what this is or how to fix it?


I think i seen something like this in the forums but not sure where tho. By the looks of it it does not look like dead or stuck pixel. Best thing you can do is send the pics to your seller and ask for a replacement and make sure they pay for the shipping. There is no fix for this as far as i can tell. Even if there is a fix for it. It might come back again so send it back for a replacement


----------



## gezer

My Crossover with the stuttering screen has a blue pcb board. I wanted to send it back, but I heard you can replace it with the green one. How easy is it? Where do I get the green pcb board?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> My Crossover with the stuttering screen has a blue pcb board. I wanted to send it back, but I heard you can replace it with the green one. How easy is it? Where do I get the green pcb board?


Read few pages back to find out about the pcb stuff. And you need to tell your seller to send you a green pcb if that's what you need


----------



## gezer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Read few pages back to find out about the pcb stuff. And you need to tell your seller to send you a green pcb if that's what you need


Yeah Ive been reading through this whole thread about the pcb stuff, seems like there are different models out there and I have no idea how to replace it. I also have no idea which PCB I would need to replace since I haven't seen anyone with the problems I have, this is my screen:











Does the Yamakasi have similar problems?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Yeah Ive been reading through this whole thread about the pcb stuff, seems like there are different models out there and I have no idea how to replace it. I also have no idea which PCB I would need to replace since I haven't seen anyone with the problems I have, this is my screen:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the Yamakasi have similar problems?


have you used a different dvi-d cable not the one that came with it. If you have used it but still the same problem then best thing to do will be to ask for a replacement


----------



## gezer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> have you used a different dvi-d cable not the one that came with it. If you have used it but still the same problem then best thing to do will be to ask for a replacement


Yes I tried it with a different cable and pc, same problem. I'm sending it back. AW said they have low/no stock of Crossover 27Q anymore and they will get new shipment of them. Hope they're all with the green pcb boards or else I'll switch to Yamakasi.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Yes I tried it with a different cable and pc, same problem. I'm sending it back. AW said they have low/no stock of Crossover 27Q anymore and they will get new shipment of them. Hope they're all with the green pcb boards or else I'll switch to Yamakasi.


That's the only problem with these display is that its all to do with luck. Even if you do get a green pcb it might die after say 6 months to a year or it can even last few years but no one hear has had these display for over a year running so its quite hard to tell how long these display would last. But hope you get a good one that does not die


----------



## gezer

Thanks MrKay, I hope I get a better monitor this time round!

Btw, what is the phone number of accessorieswhole? FedEx needs their number for when there is a problem with delivery.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Thanks MrKay, I hope I get a better monitor this time round!
> Btw, what is the phone number of accessorieswhole? FedEx needs their number for when there is a problem with delivery.


All info should be on that postage label or customs paper work that came with your first monitors. I kept mine just incase. Also guys gotta remember, even though there's alot of info here on the forums, Contacting your seller should be the 1st step. They have all the info and the customer service needed to get you squared away.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Thanks MrKay, I hope I get a better monitor this time round!
> Btw, what is the phone number of accessorieswhole? FedEx needs their number for when there is a problem with delivery.


fedex has their number you can believe that. They have an actual fedex account with them.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Thanks MrKay, I hope I get a better monitor this time round!
> Btw, what is the phone number of accessorieswhole? FedEx needs their number for when there is a problem with delivery.


fedex has their number you can believe that. They have an actual fedex account with them.


----------



## telemach

any ideas how to check if monitor is broken or not ?
as previously stated it looks it's missing signal from graphic card,
black screen only backlight is on


----------



## user33

The FEDEX tracking shows my two 27Q LED-P monitors are on FEDEX vehicle for delivery today! It was picked up by FEDEX from Korea on 11/29/2012 at 5:05PM, and arrived in ANCHORAGE, AK 11/29/2012 at 11:59 AM, and out on the FEDEX truck for delivery on Nov 30, 2012 8:28 AM, this is insanely fast!

Can't wait to get my hands on them. I ordered them from ASTROBILE, I told him if he sendt me the high quality monitors (no dead pixel, minimum backlight leak) I may buy two more monitors from them. I plan to have 4 monitors in the portrait mode, should make a good setup for my home office. I am not a gamer, and I watch videos on my 60-IN plasma, these monitors are for day-to-day work at home, which I believe is a good investment in my health, because better quality monitors should be good for my eyes that are required to stair at the screens perhaps 4-6 hours a day on a regular basis.

With post more info after I received these two monitors. Thank you OP for this very helpful and informational thread.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> The FEDEX tracking shows my two 27Q LED-P monitors are on FEDEX vehicle for delivery today! It was picked up by FEDEX from Korea on 11/29/2012 at 5:05PM, and arrived in ANCHORAGE, AK 11/29/2012 at 11:59 AM, and out on the FEDEX truck for delivery on Nov 30, 2012 8:28 AM, this is insanely fast!
> Can't wait to get my hands on them. I ordered them from ASTROBILE, I told him if he sendt me the high quality monitors (no dead pixel, minimum backlight leak) I may buy two more monitors from them. I plan to have 4 monitors in the portrait mode, should make a good setup for my home office. I am not a gamer, and I watch videos on my 60-IN plasma, these monitors are for day-to-day work at home, which I believe is a good investment in my health, because better quality monitors should be good for my eyes that are required to stair at the screens perhaps 4-6 hours a day on a regular basis.
> With post more info after I received these two monitors. Thank you OP for this very helpful and informational thread.


don't forget everything is smaller with these resolutions, so think twice about your eyes lol


----------



## oomer0739

Hi, i just joined overclock.net today although i have been researching these threads for info on crossover monitors for a while now.
My monitor (crossover 27q led) is en route from korea at the moment, i hope to take delivery on tuesday at the latest, i live in the uk and have been tracking the route with fedex for a couple of days now, strange route to uk, it went from seoul to china then on to germany where it is right now waiting to make the last stage to the uk (i hope).
For your info i purchased the monitor on ebay from ASTROBILE, and i must say that so far he has been great, good communication and has responded quickly to any questions that i have considering the 9 hour time difference between uk and korea.
Cant wait to get it up and running.
will update you on progress when i can.
oomer0739


----------



## gezer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> fedex has their number you can believe that. They have an actual fedex account with them.


Ah damn, I didnot think about this when I had a chat with FedEx customer service today.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telemach*
> 
> any ideas how to check if monitor is broken or not ?
> as previously stated it looks it's missing signal from graphic card,
> black screen only backlight is on


The ribbon from the main PCB to the monitor is loose. Open the back, check all connections make sure there in. Remove ribbon connector then place it back in or just make sure it's sitting in there nice and tight.

Turn the monitor back on, connect all cables and report back.
Just to make sure what GPU are you using?

Also head down to my review of the CrossOvers,, information on everything and anything all on the first page. Everything you need to know and do to make sure these monitors are running at the best possible condition, just be sure to read lol.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> don't forget everything is smaller with these resolutions, so think twice about your eyes lol


Understood! One can always change the display fonts, I certainly will use much larger fonts for the Windows settings. The high resolution display makes the edges of text sharper and clearer, makes edges of graphics objects crisp and sharp, and those are the good reasons to believe that hi-def /hi-res monitors are good for the eyes. I could be wrong, but I go with my belief.


----------



## user33

Received my monitors this afternoon, unpacked them and did a rough inspection and checking.

Both boxes were punctured with big holes that exposed padding bubble wraps, one monitor punctured from the front (screen side), the other from the back. The prior has no dead/stuck pixels, the latter has more than 20 small bright green stuck pixels along the right edge, they are small but visible to the naked eyes, not very annoying, but quite noticeable.

I took pictures and emailed them to ASTROBILE, asked them to file a shipping damage claim with FEDEX and send me a replacement monitor. I like the display of the monitors so I also ordered one more monitor, was planning to order two more, but when I placed two monitors on my computer desk and actually see the physical relationships of monitors with my desk/work-environment, I decided that 3 will be optimal for my setup, will post pics once have them setup.

I will post the outcome of my communications with ASTROBILE. I believe they are decent and would do the right thing for their clients, especially since I am posting the whole purchasing story and outcome in this forum, by doing the right thing they will certainly gain trust from many potential buyers who use this forum as an important reference to guide their purchasing decisions.


----------



## user33

I forgot to said that both monitors appeared to have quite severe backlight leaks, I am not sure if that is the normal behavior of the LED monitors, since I have not have a LED monitor to compare them with, all my LCD monitors don't have backlight leaks.

Can anyone comment of the backlight leak issue? How do I know if mine are normal or not?

Thanks a lot!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I forgot to said that both monitors appeared to have quite severe backlight leaks, I am not sure if that is the normal behavior of the LED monitors, since I have not have a LED monitor to compare them with, all my LCD monitors don't have backlight leaks.
> Can anyone comment of the backlight leak issue? How do I know if mine are normal or not?
> Thanks a lot!


It's a gamble for back light bleed, it is common for all of us and some have no problems. Take some picture's and let the community be the judge.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I forgot to said that both monitors appeared to have quite severe backlight leaks, I am not sure if that is the normal behavior of the LED monitors, since I have not have a LED monitor to compare them with, all my LCD monitors don't have backlight leaks.
> Can anyone comment of the backlight leak issue? How do I know if mine are normal or not?
> Thanks a lot!


When i got my one it had very light backlight leaks. And also had over 12 stuck pixel on the left side of the screen. If you don't get a pixel perfect one then some of these sellers say it might have stuck pixel on the left or right side of the screen that's what red-cap says for these monitors. Am really happy my seller gave me a refund and not a replacement now cause even after i seen them 12 stuck pixel all of a sudden i started to see backlight leak on the top of the monitor. Plus the price of these monitors have gone up now and you can get a new dell one for about another £150 or so if you added that to a pixel perfect one. Plus i have done some reading about these monitors and they are not the same screen as the dell as far as i know. Not sure if apple even uses these display on there 27 apple cinema display and the dell u2711,dell u2713 models as well uses different panels and not the same panel as these korean display. Just wanted to let everyone know that because so many people say they are the same panel when they are not. But i don't think a normal person will know a difference tho


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> It's a gamble for back light bleed, it is common for all of us and some have no problems. Take some picture's and let the community be the judge.


How should take pictures for assessing backlight leaks? with totally black background for the monitors I assume, but should I take the picture in complete darkness? at night with room lights? or in living daylight?

Thanks for the suggestions.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> When i got my one it had very light backlight leaks. And also had over 12 stuck pixel on the left side of the screen. If you don't get a pixel perfect one then some of these sellers say it might have stuck pixel on the left or right side of the screen that's what red-cap says for these monitors. Am really happy my seller gave me a refund and not a replacement now cause even after i seen them 12 stuck pixel all of a sudden i started to see backlight leak on the top of the monitor. Plus the price of these monitors have gone up now and you can get a new dell one for about another £150 or so if you added that to a pixel perfect one. Plus i have done some reading about these monitors and they are not the same screen as the dell as far as i know. Not sure if apple even uses these display on there 27 apple cinema display and the dell u2711,dell u2713 models as well uses different panels and not the same panel as these korean display. Just wanted to let everyone know that because so many people say they are the same panel when they are not. But i don't think a normal person will know a difference tho


These monitors are one half of the price of HP/DELL's, if there is no dead/stuck pixels, I think I can live with the backlight leaks, they are only very noticeable when in dark background, which I try not to use because of the glossy screen reflects badly with dark backgrounds.

For the same price, would happily get 2 of these monitors (without dead pixels and with acceptable backlight leaks) than to get just one HP/DELL. That said, 3 monitors with two graphics cards for my setup is by no means "cheap", it still costs me about $1150, just for the better display than what I already have, which are not too shabby anyway, but I decided to go for it, life is too short, enjoy when we can, money will be spent anyway, O would rather spent them on something that would make work easier and kinder for my eyes.


----------



## user33

deleted


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> These monitors are one half of the price of HP/DELL's, if there is no dead/stuck pixels, I think I can live with the backlight leaks, they are only very noticeable when in dark background, which I try not to use because of the glossy screen reflects badly with dark backgrounds.
> For the same price, would happily get 2 of these monitors (without dead pixels and with acceptable backlight leaks) than to get just one HP/DELL. That said, 3 monitors with two graphics cards for my setup is by no means "cheap", it still costs me about $1150, just for the better display than what I already have, which are not too shabby anyway, but I decided to go for it, life is too short, enjoy when we can, money will be spent anyway, O would rather spent them on something that would make work easier and kinder for my eyes.


I was just saying since you spent a lot of $$$ for these monitors a little bit more would save you a lot in the long run. If you have not bought a pixel perfect one then they wont replace it for you since they state that in there info that back-light leaks are normal and 1 to 3 dead stuck pixel are normal with these displays. Every seller is different tho some sellers state that up to 5 to 20 dead pixel are normal with back-light leaks. Plus if some thing where to happen after say 1 or 2 months later then you will have to send it back your self which would cost you more then a dell,hp monitor or same price since shipping to korea is not cheap. Anyway all the best to you


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> If you have not bought a pixel perfect one then they wont replace it for you since they state that in there info that back-light leaks are normal and 1 to 3 dead stuck pixel are normal with these displays. Every seller is different tho some sellers state that up to 5 to 20 dead pixel are normal with back-light leaks.


ASROBILE's policy for defect is 1+4 dead pixels, I have over 20 pixels, I trust that ASTROBILE will honor their policy.
Quote:


> Plus if some thing where to happen after say 1 or 2 months later then you will have to send it back your self which would cost you more then a dell,hp monitor or same price since shipping to korea is not cheap. Anyway all the best to you


That's very true! I gamble on that if I don't get the problems when I received the monitors, the odds of them going dead in 1-2 months are quite low; for a 50% discount in price, I think the risk-reward is not that bad for my taste (I could be wrong in the math because I am not using real statistical calculations for risk-reward). If I buy DELL/HP, the same setup would cost me more than $2000.

Again, you are correct, I am taking a sizable risk for counting on that the monitors would not need to be sent to Korea for warranty repair. For those who are well off, they really should go with DELL/HP, or even Apple, and not to bother with this bargain hunting game we are playing here.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> ASROBILE's policy for defect is 1+4 dead pixels, I have over 20 pixels, I trust that ASTROBILE will honor their policy.


20 pixels? You mean 20 dead pixels? I doubt you have that many. Some of them are probably defective pixels.

Never heard of 20 dead pixels on the Korean monitors.

Maybe you were really unlucky.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Plus i have done some reading about these monitors and *they are not the same screen as the dell* as far as i know. *Not sure if apple even uses these display* on there 27 apple cinema display and the dell u2711,dell u2713 models as well uses different panels and not the same panel as these korean display. Just wanted to let everyone know that because so many people say they are the same panel when they are not. But i don't think a normal person will know a difference tho


This is wrong. If you check the first post of this topic you'll find a picture of the internal and you can read that the panel in the Crossover monitor is a *LG Display LM270WQ1*



This is the exactly same panel in the iMac 27" and Apple Display, and also is the same panel that some Dell (like the U2711 and U2713) use.

Now, the recent model of U2711 have an updated version of the *same* display, the LM270WQ*2* .

The U2711′s LM270WQ2 panel sports an 8-bit + A-FRC while the Thunderbolt Display's LM270WQ1 is an 8-bit LED.

That's all.

So this Korean monitor have an appeal expecially because of this reason!









(PS the only reason that this monitor have such a good price is that they have at 100% some defects, and they fail in some of these specifications. Of course the great thing is that in the 80% of the time these problems are almost unnoticeable! Mine has absolute NO backlight bleeding and NO dead pixels, but I found the little defect and is unnoticeable in every day use!







)


----------



## oomer0739

hi, that will be interesting to me to see how you get on with your claim as i too have purchased my monitor from astrobile.
I am awaiting delivery, hopefully on tuesday this week.
good luck
oomer0739


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oomer0739*
> 
> hi, that will be interesting to me to see how you get on with your claim as i too have purchased my monitor from astrobile.
> I am awaiting delivery, hopefully on tuesday this week.
> good luck
> oomer0739


ASTROBILE still had not responded to my email, this gets me worried. Has anyone dealt with this seller before? I searched this thread and can only find one reference.


----------



## telemach

I checked panel and nothing suspicious inside



panel detects when the signal is on/off because it switches itself off however nothing is displayed, black screen only backlight
no BIOS no nothing, I don't have second GPU around and mine Powercolor hd 7750 was running fine but when I switched off panel
and tried to switch on blue light came and backlight however no image

BTW - *** ???


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> This is wrong. If you check the first post of this topic you'll find a picture of the internal and you can read that the panel in the Crossover monitor is a *LG Display LM270WQ1*
> 
> This is the exactly same panel in the iMac 27" and Apple Display, and also is the same panel that some Dell (like the U2711 and U2713) use.
> Now, the recent model of U2711 have an updated version of the *same* display, the LM270WQ*2* .
> The U2711′s LM270WQ2 panel sports an 8-bit + A-FRC while the Thunderbolt Display's LM270WQ1 is an 8-bit LED.
> That's all.
> So this Korean monitor have an appeal expecially because of this reason!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (PS the only reason that this monitor have such a good price is that they have at 100% some defects, and they fail in some of these specifications. Of course the great thing is that in the 80% of the time these problems are almost unnoticeable! Mine has absolute NO backlight bleeding and NO dead pixels, but I found the little defect and is unnoticeable in every day use!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The dell U2713 uses a AH-IPS display that is the same as the retina display found on the new macbook pro's so it's a totally new panel nothing like the korean display at all.

The bottom bit was by kevinsbane

'I'm sorry, but you are mistaken on this point.
The Catleap Q270, and most of the currently widely available Korean IPS monitors, do not, I repeat, do not use the same panel as Dell's U2711 monitor.

The U2711 is a completely different panel than this current crop.
The U2711 uses a CCFL backlit, wide-gamut, 10bit (8-bit+FRC) panel. This means that it can show more different colours, it can show deeper blues, brighter greens and more radiant reds and is more uniform than any of the current ~$300-400 27" IPS.
Current Korean monitors, for the vast majority, (we're talking 99%+) are edgelit LEDs, standard sRGB gamut, 8 bit (8bit without FRC) panels.

They are not the same. It is not just a grading difference.

If you're thinking about the U2713hm, then you're closer; they use similar panels, but again, they aren't the same panels. The U2713hm also uses an edgelit, LED backlight, standard sRGB gamut and 8 bit panel, but it's a different model panel - "rejected" U2713hm panels do not go into a pool where these Korean monitors draw their panels.'

Check out these links

http://www.overclock.net/t/1330383/korean-ips-with-same-panel-as-the-dell-ultrasharp-u2711/10

http://www.overclock.net/t/1291718/new-dell-u2713-27-2560x1440-ah-ips

people should not keep on saying these are the same panel cause they are not and a lot of folks are buying these display's thinking they are the same panel when they are totally not . But they are great cheap panels tho


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> The dell U2713 uses a AH-IPS display that is the same as the retina display found on the new macbook pro's so it's a totally new panel nothing like the korean display at all.
> The bottom bit was by kevinsbane
> 'I'm sorry, but you are mistaken on this point.
> The Catleap Q270, and most of the currently widely available Korean IPS monitors, do not, I repeat, do not use the same panel as Dell's U2711 monitor.
> The U2711 is a completely different panel than this current crop.
> The U2711 uses a CCFL backlit, wide-gamut, 10bit (8-bit+FRC) panel. This means that it can show more different colours, it can show deeper blues, brighter greens and more radiant reds and is more uniform than any of the current ~$300-400 27" IPS.
> Current Korean monitors, for the vast majority, (we're talking 99%+) are edgelit LEDs, standard sRGB gamut, 8 bit (8bit without FRC) panels.
> They are not the same. It is not just a grading difference.
> If you're thinking about the U2713hm, then you're closer; they use similar panels, but again, they aren't the same panels. The U2713hm also uses an edgelit, LED backlight, standard sRGB gamut and 8 bit panel, but it's a different model panel - "rejected" U2713hm panels do not go into a pool where these Korean monitors draw their panels.'
> Check out these links
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1330383/korean-ips-with-same-panel-as-the-dell-ultrasharp-u2711/10
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1291718/new-dell-u2713-27-2560x1440-ah-ips
> people should not keep on saying these are the same panel cause they are not and a lot of folks are buying these display's thinking they are the same panel when they are totally not . But they are great cheap panels tho


You're right about U2713, my bad.

These Korean monitors use the same exact panel as Apple Displays. About the Dell U2711 I've already told that it has a different model, but of the same panel. You can check that U2711 has a LM270WQ2, while Apple and Korean's have LM270WQ1.

The difference are quite small, the LM270WQ2 is better by just a little.

As soon as I can, I'll check the 2 links you've provided me.


----------



## FlyingSolo

For anyone that think am saying these korean display are bad. That's not true they are very good display to be honest. If you get a perfect working one. Plus i don't think a normal person would be able to tell the difference tho but i can be wrong tho


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> ASTROBILE still had not responded to my email, this gets me worried. Has anyone dealt with this seller before? I searched this thread and can only find one reference.


These sellers from what i know is that they do not work on saturday or sunday. So am sure they will contact you on monday. Hopefully


----------



## Descadent

hearing all this makes me proud of buying from Accessorieswhole lol...to bad they are out of stock for yall


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> hearing all this makes me proud of buying from Accessorieswhole lol...to bad they are out of stock for yall


Your right the best is Accessorieswhole and bigclothcraft they have the best customer service for sure then anyone else that is selling it


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

How is dream seller in terms of customer service? That's who I plan on buying from, his prices seem the best.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> How is dream seller in terms of customer service? That's who I plan on buying from, his prices seem the best.


If you can spend a little bit more and get it from Accessorieswhole or bigclothcraft. Cause they have the best customer service which at the end if anything was to go wrong you know that they will try there best to sort it out for you. Plus you can make a offer on bigclothcraft monitors worth a try tho


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> If you can spend a little bit more and get it from Accessorieswhole or bigclothcraft. Cause they have the best customer service which at the end if anything was to go wrong you know that they will try there best to sort it out for you. Plus you can make a offer on bigclothcraft monitors worth a try tho


The thing about those sellers is that there pixel perfect monitors are something like $999, which is preposterous.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> The thing about those sellers is that there pixel perfect monitors are something like $999, which is preposterous.


That's because they don't have stock at the moment and they put the price up. Once they get the stock the price will go back to normal again. Just ask them when they will get the next stock in


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> The thing about those sellers is that there pixel perfect monitors are something like $999, which is preposterous.


If you looked at the ad below it states, in bold letters. 'Out of Stock", also a couple pages back AccesorriesWhole made a post stating that there out of stock but are getting a new shipment in.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> ASTROBILE still had not responded to my email, this gets me worried. Has anyone dealt with this seller before? I searched this thread and can only find one reference.


Holidays and all sellers do not work during the weekend. Expect your response on Monday or Tuesday.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telemach*
> 
> I checked panel and nothing suspicious inside
> 
> panel detects when the signal is on/off because it switches itself off however nothing is displayed, black screen only backlight
> no BIOS no nothing, I don't have second GPU around and mine Powercolor hd 7750 was running fine but when I switched off panel
> and tried to switch on blue light came and backlight however no image
> BTW - *** ???


That last picture in my book is a no go. Email your seller tell them this was found inside the monitor and request a replacement. That's just either negligence on the manufacturer or the seller. Regardless request for a replacement due to a non-working monitor and suspicious materials in the vents of the monitor that may have caused damage to the panel itself.


----------



## Touche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Please notice that we do not sell monitors that is already broken, damaged or not working.
> Why would AW send DOA/ defective monitors to buyers and expect to get complains for return/refund from buyers?
> I fully understand that you get upset to receive monitor that is not working properly.
> Notice that I am also upset and unhappy as much as you do to receive message about monitor is not working properly.
> Most of the time when I get monitors back for its defective, I am really dissapointed to see that monitor functions so well that I cannot understand the claim originally reported to me.
> All I ask to you is that,
> please read thoroughly on the product descriptions first, if you have questions about product, please contact me, check your PC and graphic card specification and make it sure it is compatible with.
> If you unfortuately received your monitor in damaged and not working properly,
> 1. Try to connect all cables tight and correct
> 2. Try to connect monitor with different PC to check its condition.
> 3. Do not treat me as a thief who is holding you money.
> 4. Contact me at my email or on ebay message, if possilbe in details,
> - Purchased date, product name, your ID/name
> - PC specification/ Graphic card name - > to check compatibilities
> - Include photo/video clip showing monitor malfunctions
> That will make return/replacement process faster and shall not wait days after days.
> About Green PCB vs Blue PCB,
> I recently received a lot of this message,
> Blue PCB was placed for May, June and maybe some of the July shipped monitors.
> Recent monitors have Green PCB and shall not be worried for its burn out.
> So, Please do not disassemble your decent monitors at your door to check for Green PCB.
> We do not ask and recommend to open monitor backside to check its color of board unless monitor needs to checked up.
> Any damage occured by buyers shall not be considered as a return/refund.


This is not true. I have received a damaged Crossover (the casing) from you and it wasn't damaged during shipping, which tells me you don't really check the monitors yourself.

Secondly, I've also received the one with the blue PCB even though you specifically assured me that you would be shipping the green one, and this was in 11/2012.

You seem to be resolving these problems for me so that will be a plus if it goes well, but it really shouldn't have happened in the first place.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> The thing about those sellers is that there pixel perfect monitors are something like $999, which is preposterous.


High demand allows sellers to increase the price.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> High demand allows sellers to increase the price.


The $999 monitors are just out of stock, they want to keep the listing open instead of making a new one.


----------



## nahpungnome

Sorry if this isn't the right thread, since my monitor is a QNIX QX2700, but I'm having colored snow issues upon boot, bios, and windows and I can't seem to figure out the issue. I read through this thread and saw issues with people that have the blue led pcb so I figured i'd look to see what's in my QNIX.

I have a blue main board and green led pcb. After inspecting each, I didn't see any physical issues. I also unhooked the speakers since I was in there because they make an annoying pop sound when the monitor turns on and off.

I've tried new cables, different computers, and different video cards, hell I even bought a different power adapter since mine only had a sticker saying 110V was acceptable. Still, I get colored static.

It goes away if I turn the monitor on/off a bunch of times, but that's annoying as hell. If anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it. I've contacted BCC about the issue so I'm just waiting on this reply. I really don't want to ship the monitor back because aside from this snow issue, the display is pretty awesome.

I'm wondering if a mainboard swap would correct the issue, but I'm not sure where the problem lies exactly....


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> For anyone that think am saying these korean display are bad. That's not true they are very good display to be honest. If you get a perfect working one. Plus i don't think a normal person would be able to tell the difference tho but i can be wrong tho


These panels look exactly like the iMac I used to have. The best panels I've seen on a consumer grade monitor.


----------



## gezer

How do you replace the blue pcb board with the green one? Are there any instructions or tutorials out there?

Btw, is this flickering and stuttering of my screen caused by the blue pcb board?


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> How do you replace the blue pcb board with the green one? Are there any instructions or tutorials out there?
> Btw, is this flickering and stuttering of my screen caused by the blue pcb board?


Yep, sure looks like it. I would try replacing the DVI cable first though. I have heard of flickering due to a bad cable.


----------



## rck1984

edit: double post...


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Hi,
> This is Nancy from Accessorieswhole.
> (clip)
> I recently received request of selling green PCB boards, but Accessorieswhole only provide Green PCB, power adapter and necessary supplies to buyers who purchased their monitors from Accessorieswhole.
> (clip)
> .


When I asked about the PCB's this is the response I got, (12/3/2012)

"Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.

Most of monitors have Green PCB installed.

Sincerely

- accessorieswhole"

Most... I understand there may be a small language barrier here, but most does not mean all.

It's hard for me to make this purchase when I can pick up the Auria from Microcenter for just $20 more than the Crossover 27Q that AW sells.

The Auria has more features, it's sold from a well known company here in the states, and when you account for customs tax it's probably less money. The only reason I havnt pulled the trigger on the Auria is, I guess, I'm just confused why so many other people have chosen the Korean E-bay option over the Microcenter option.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> When I asked about the PCB's this is the response I got, (12/3/2012)
> "Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> Most of monitors have Green PCB installed.
> Sincerely
> - accessorieswhole"
> Most... I understand there may be a small language barrier here, but most does not mean all.
> It's hard for me to make this purchase when I can pick up the Auria from Microcenter for just $20 more than the Crossover 27Q that AW sells.
> The Auria has more features, it's sold from a well known company here in the states, and when you account for customs tax it's probably less money. The only reason I havnt pulled the trigger on the Auria is, I guess, I'm just confused why so many other people have chosen the Korean E-bay option over the Microcenter option.


Most of us who bought ebay monitors either bought it before the Auria came out, or do not live near a Microcenter. That is to say, we don't have or didn't have the chance to get an Auria. If you live near one, it is a better idea to buy the Auria.


----------



## Touche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> When I asked about the PCB's this is the response I got, (12/3/2012)
> "Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> Most of monitors have Green PCB installed.
> Sincerely
> - accessorieswhole"
> Most... I understand there may be a small language barrier here, but most does not mean all.


I bought mine last month and got the blue one.


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Most of us who bought ebay monitors either bought it before the Auria came out, or do not live near a Microcenter. That is to say, we don't have or didn't have the chance to get an Auria. If you live near one, it is a better idea to buy the Auria.


Yea that's what I was thinking. It's available for shipping so I will more than likely just have one shipped to me because there isn't a MC around here either.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> When I asked about the PCB's this is the response I got, (12/3/2012)
> "Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> Most of monitors have Green PCB installed.
> Sincerely
> - accessorieswhole"
> Most... I understand there may be a small language barrier here, but most does not mean all.
> It's hard for me to make this purchase when I can pick up the Auria from Microcenter for just $20 more than the Crossover 27Q that AW sells.
> The Auria has more features, it's sold from a well known company here in the states, and when you account for customs tax it's probably less money. The only reason I havnt pulled the trigger on the Auria is, I guess, I'm just confused why so many other people have chosen the Korean E-bay option over the Microcenter option.


If you asked do the monitors have thegreen pcb installed.. then yes that general answer nancy gave is understandable.
If you asked, hey i want to purchase 1,2,3 monitors from you and please make sure it has the green pcb, then thats a different story.

Even if you get the monitor and it has a blue pcb, just send them an email stating if they can send you the green pcb due to overheating issues with the blue.

Honestly I bought mine even after micro center had Auria and there's a micro center near me. I prefer these monitor's because of price, and lower customs fees or no customs fee's if you work well with the seller.

Plus AW constantly looks at this forum so they kinda expects us to know everything about whats going on. Just request what you want and they will execute. So far no complaints here from AW.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Holidays and all sellers do not work during the weekend. Expect your response on Monday or Tuesday.


It is Monday afternoon here, early morning Tuesday in Korea. Looks like they have chosen to ignore my emails.

What should I do from here? file a paypal dispute? I didn't buy it on eBay, never would had thought the seller would just refuse communication.

I had sent all my messages both with regular email and with paypal resolution center messages, should I wait for another day or should I escalate to paypal claims of "defected and damaged products and seller ignored all my communications"?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## rck1984

I am trying to figure out what color PCB my Crossover 27Q has. I tried looking into the back, trough the backside but except for the green main PCB, i don't see anything else.
Where exactly is this LED PCB located, when facing at the backside of the screen?


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> If you asked do the monitors have thegreen pcb installed.. then yes that general answer nancy gave is understandable.
> If you asked, hey i want to purchase 1,2,3 monitors from you and please make sure it has the green pcb, then thats a different story.
> Even if you get the monitor and it has a blue pcb, just send them an email stating if they can send you the green pcb due to overheating issues with the blue.
> Honestly I bought mine even after micro center had Auria and there's a micro center near me. I prefer these monitor's because of price, and lower customs fees or no customs fee's if you work well with the seller.
> Plus AW constantly looks at this forum so they kinda expects us to know everything about whats going on. Just request what you want and they will execute. So far no complaints here from AW.


If I was to purchase a screen on E-bay, it would be from AW. I am not hitting her with a negative comment. She seems to have the best CS reports combined with one of, if not the best pixel warranty.

I am just not willing to send $400 of my money out without being absolutely sure of what I am receiving. I simply noticed she had stated in a post that all of the new monitors being sold had the green PCB, when that response I got implies that is not the case.

I wanted information on why people are not more seriously considering an Auria with how the prices on the Crossovers not being very competitive. MC ships these screens so it's not a location thing. It basically comes down to a Crossover from AW for $380 + customs, or an Auria $400 + shipping.

It comes down to roughly $20. Is the Crossover a better product for $20 less? Is it worth the hassle or risk to deal with a merchant in Korea as opposed to one here in the states? I am not implying that one is better than the other. I am merely suggesting that it's worth opening up the discussion.

A lot of people here view this thread and are looking for information. I wanted to make sure that the members of our community had all the information possible to make this purchase.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> I am trying to figure out what color PCB my Crossover 27Q has. I tried looking into the back, trough the backside but except for the green main PCB, i don't see anything else.
> Where exactly is this LED PCB located, when facing at the backside of the screen?


If you don't see any other pcb, noticeably the led pcb. You have the newer versions of the monitor where it only has the Main pcb and the power/brightness button pcb on the bottom right. If you look in the back where your display connectors are there should be like 2 small pipes sticking out in the middle. Thats the pretense in letting you know it is also the newer revisions.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> It is Monday afternoon here, early morning Tuesday in Korea. Looks like they have chosen to ignore my emails.
> What should I do from here? file a paypal dispute? I didn't buy it on eBay, never would had thought the seller would just refuse communication.
> I had sent all my messages both with regular email and with paypal resolution center messages, should I wait for another day or should I escalate to paypal claims of "defected and damaged products and seller ignored all my communications"?
> Thanks in advance for any advice.


To give you an idea. Im in NY, EST time. I usually get all my responses from emails I sent around 11pm-3am at night. You have to give it time. Also send 1 more email, guarantee you will get a response but it's gonna be most likely when your sleeping unless you have insomnia.
I'm also waiting on a response from AW, but they get back to you. Just wait.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> If you don't see any other pcb, noticeably the led pcb. You have the newer versions of the monitor where it only has the Main pcb and the power/brightness button pcb on the bottom right. If you look in the back where your display connectors are there should be like 2 small pipes sticking out in the middle. Thats the pretense in letting you know it is also the newer revisions.


Thanks!

Pipes, like two 3.5mm microphone jack holes? in between the DVI and power connector? I see two small pipes/holes there.
I assume, these newer versions do not have the overheating issue anymore?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Thanks!
> Pipes, like two 3.5mm microphone jack holes? in between the DVI and power connector? I see two small pipes/holes there.
> I assume, these newer versions do not have the overheating issue anymore?


Yep, exactly. Those are the newer revisions that do not need the led pcb, since the mainboard is a all-in-one. These do not have burning issues.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Yep, exactly. Those are the newer revisions that do not need the led pcb, since the mainboard is a all-in-one. These do not have burning issues.


Great, thank you very much for the info. One less thing to worry about now


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> When I asked about the PCB's this is the response I got, (12/3/2012)
> "Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> Most of monitors have Green PCB installed.
> Sincerely
> - accessorieswhole"
> Most... I understand there may be a small language barrier here, but most does not mean all.
> It's hard for me to make this purchase when I can pick up the Auria from Microcenter for just $20 more than the Crossover 27Q that AW sells.
> The Auria has more features, it's sold from a well known company here in the states, and when you account for customs tax it's probably less money. The only reason I havnt pulled the trigger on the Auria is, I guess, I'm just confused why so many other people have chosen the Korean E-bay option over the Microcenter option.


I would say go with the Auria and if something does go wrong at least you have no worries about getting a replacement at all. The only thing i like about the crossover is the frame looks amazing compared to other world known brands apart from apple cinema display which i think is the best looking display out there


----------



## FlyingSolo

For anyone else there looking to buy these display make sure you use your own country's kettle plug and not the one that comes with the display and hopefully you should not have any problems


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> I would say go with the Auria and if something does go wrong at least you have no worries about getting a replacement at all. The only thing i like about the crossover is the frame looks amazing compared to other world known brands apart from apple cinema display which i think is the best looking display out there


Should paypal's buyer protection feature act as some sort of "guaranty" against defective, damage, or non-shipment purchase? or it is just total BS (i.e., paypal would not intervene, or made it so that is is near impossible to actually get the refund even if items are indeed defective/damaged)?


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Should paypal's buyer protection feature act as some sort of "guaranty" against defective, damage, or non-shipment purchase? or it is just total BS (i.e., paypal would not intervene, or made it so that is is near impossible to actually get the refund even if items are indeed defective/damaged)?


If the item is not as described and the seller tells you to screw off, you're within your rights to open a payment dispute with paypal. They tend to side with the buyer if it has to go that far... but I would bet the seller isn't going to take the ratings hit AND cash hit after you open the dispute.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Should paypal's buyer protection feature act as some sort of "guaranty" against defective, damage, or non-shipment purchase? or it is just total BS (i.e., paypal would not intervene, or made it so that is is near impossible to actually get the refund even if items are indeed defective/damaged)?


I think paypal only covers you for 45 days after that they wont do anything for you. I would say give them a message and tell them that you will contact paypal if they don't let you know what's happening and that will make sure they reply back to you. Who did you buy it from


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> To give you an idea. Im in NY, EST time. I usually get all my responses from emails I sent around 11pm-3am at night. You have to give it time. Also send 1 more email, guarantee you will get a response but it's gonna be most likely when your sleeping unless you have insomnia.
> I'm also waiting on a response from AW, but they get back to you. Just wait.


I emailed them since last Friday! It is now 10:20 PM NY time Monday night and they still not responding to my email, let's what kind of game are they paying. Refuse to communicate with customers regarding quality/shipping issues would not help them if it finally had to resort to use paypal payment dispute process, correct?


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> I think paypal only covers you for 45 days after that they wont do anything for you. I would say give them a message and tell them that you will contact paypal if they don't let you know what's happening and that will make sure they reply back to you. Who did you buy it from


I had both emailed and opened paypal case and sent messages through paypal resolution process (paypal's web-based messaging system that keeps track of communications between buyer and seller), but it is a one way communication, they stopped communication since last Wednesday.

Can't understand why would any seller refuse to communicate to resolve issues, unless they know that payapl won't force them to refund customer's purchase, no matter how wrong sellers are. Could that be a possibility (that paypal is protecting sellers and screwing buyers)?


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I had both emailed and opened paypal case and sent messages through paypal resolution process (paypal's web-based messaging system that keeps track of communications between buyer and seller), but it is a one way communication, they stopped communication since last Wednesday.
> Can't understand why would any seller refuse to communicate to resolve issues, unless they know that payapl won't force them to refund customer's purchase, no matter how wrong sellers are. Could that be a possibility (that paypal is protecting sellers and screwing buyers)?


Paypal usually puts a hold on the funds and only releases it a few weeks after the transaction. So they do protect the user. Plus, if the seller doesn't respond to the dispute, you'll automatically win by default.

Don't worry, you're covered. A bit of a hassle though.


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> If I was to purchase a screen on E-bay, it would be from AW. I am not hitting her with a negative comment. She seems to have the best CS reports combined with one of, if not the best pixel warranty.
> I am just not willing to send $400 of my money out without being absolutely sure of what I am receiving. I simply noticed she had stated in a post that all of the new monitors being sold had the green PCB, when that response I got implies that is not the case.
> I wanted information on why people are not more seriously considering an Auria with how the prices on the Crossovers not being very competitive. MC ships these screens so it's not a location thing. It basically comes down to a Crossover from AW for $380 + customs, or an Auria $400 + shipping.
> It comes down to roughly $20. Is the Crossover a better product for $20 less? Is it worth the hassle or risk to deal with a merchant in Korea as opposed to one here in the states? I am not implying that one is better than the other. I am merely suggesting that it's worth opening up the discussion.
> A lot of people here view this thread and are looking for information. I wanted to make sure that the members of our community had all the information possible to make this purchase.


Go for the local one, the $20 is for peace of mind. For a $50 difference I'd go for the Crossover since I think they look great with the all metal housing. Pretty unique looking


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I had both emailed and opened paypal case and sent messages through paypal resolution process (paypal's web-based messaging system that keeps track of communications between buyer and seller), but it is a one way communication, they stopped communication since last Wednesday.
> Can't understand why would any seller refuse to communicate to resolve issues, unless they know that payapl won't force them to refund customer's purchase, no matter how wrong sellers are. Could that be a possibility (that paypal is protecting sellers and screwing buyers)?


Since you didn't buy from ebay and you just paid with paypal it's hard to say what paypal will do for you. But am sure they will get your money back but like i said if it takes more then 45 days paypal wont help you at all. And the other thing is paypal gives the sellers 20 days or more to reply back if i remember correctly and if that goes over 45 days then as i said before they wont help you at all. Also didn't you say you bought another one as well from them after you bought the two. Have you already received that one. The only thing you can do now is wait for them to reply back or wait for paypal to sort the problem out for you. Another thing is you should have read the forum hear before buying from an unknown seller which most of the people hear bought it from accessorieswhole, bigclothcraft, red-cap, dream-seller, green-sum just to name a few. But the two i listed first are best for customer service. But i guess it's not your fault. That's why i say add a little bit more money and get a Nixeus WQHD 27 or an Auria EQ276W 27 and that way if something does ever happen in the long run you know that your safe.


----------



## gezer

Is there any tutorial on how to open up a Crossover? I'll look into the PCB board. AW told me if there is a burn on my blue pcb board they'll send me a green one. Also, returning this monitor would be a shame, because return shipping costs on AW will be €350! Thats more than the monitor itself.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Since you didn't buy from ebay and you just paid with paypal it's hard to say what paypal will do for you. But am sure they will get your money back but like i said if it takes more then 45 days paypal wont help you at all. And the other thing is paypal gives the sellers 20 days or more to reply back if i remember correctly and if that goes over 45 days then as i said before they wont help you at all. Also didn't you say you bought another one as well from them after you bought the two. Have you already received that one. The only thing you can do now is wait for them to reply back or wait for paypal to sort the problem out for you. Another thing is you should have read the forum hear before buying from an unknown seller which most of the people hear bought it from accessorieswhole, bigclothcraft, red-cap, dream-seller, green-sum just to name a few. But the two i listed first are best for customer service. But i guess it's not your fault. That's why i say add a little bit more money and get a Nixeus WQHD 27 or an Auria EQ276W 27 and that way if something does ever happen in the long run you know that your safe.


Yes I also emailed them that I want to buy a 3rd monitor, and asked them to invoice me. They had not responded to any of my emails.

I was going to give them more business, never would had thought any seller would refuse communication, I was too naive, or there is something very wrong with this seller, still can't figure it out.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Yes I also emailed them that I want to buy a 3rd monitor, and asked them to invoice me. They had not responded to any of my emails.
> I was going to give them more business, never would had thought any seller would refuse communication, I was too naive, or there is something very wrong with this seller, still can't figure it out.


The other thing you can do is call paypal and tell them what's happening and tell them you want a full refund. Do this as soon as possible. While you still under that 45 days


----------



## Xibal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Yep, exactly. Those are the newer revisions that do not need the led pcb, since the mainboard is a all-in-one. These do not have burning issues.


My crossover doesn't have any pipes in between the DVI and power connector and I can't see a separate PCB board just for the LED, although the power and brightness buttons are on the back of the monitor located at the bottom right. I checked with my seller, BCC that it has the new green PCB and they assured me that there won't be any overheating issues (also serial number at the back states 2012090000004 - I assume it was manufactured in September 2012). Are you sure you're not confusing the pipes with the crossovers that have inbuilt speakers?


----------



## Logi7

Does the apple 27 thunderbolt display use the same panel?

Could somebody hypothetically swap the panels from a crossover and a thunderbolt display?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> My crossover doesn't have any pipes in between the DVI and power connector and I can't see a separate PCB board just for the LED, although the power and brightness buttons are on the back of the monitor located at the bottom right. I checked with my seller, BCC that it has the new green PCB and they assured me that there won't be any overheating issues (also serial number at the back states 2012090000004 - I assume it was manufactured in September 2012). Are you sure you're not confusing the pipes with the crossovers that have inbuilt speakers?


Well I was trying to give you ways to identify. and the two are if you don't see the LED pcb just by looking through the grills and the double micro jacks on the back. Just open it uo and look. Sometimes the manufacturer doesn't screw in the led pcb so it's not in the right spot where it's clearly,y visible when looking through the grill. One of my monitors is the new revision and I couldn't see a led pcb, so I opened oit up to double check and I was right, no led pcb and there were 2 small looking pipes in between the dvi and power connector. The other two didn't; have that.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logi7*
> 
> Does the apple 27 thunderbolt display use the same panel?
> Could somebody hypothetically swap the panels from a crossover and a thunderbolt display?


Yes and no. The panels are the same, The PCB's connecting to the main board are not. So if your gonna do a complete swap. You need to swap the entire thing to make it work. Since apple uses a different boards from our korean counter-parts.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Is there any tutorial on how to open up a Crossover? I'll look into the PCB board. AW told me if there is a burn on my blue pcb board they'll send me a green one. Also, returning this monitor would be a shame, because return shipping costs on AW will be €350! Thats more than the monitor itself.


No tutorial, it's pretty straight forward.
-Unscrew the black screws that are holding the stand
-Unscrew all silver screws on the backside of the crossover.
- Unscrew the 2 silver screws that are on the side of the panel.

Just careful when opening it up, since all the wires are connected. Have to open it slightly then stick your hand in and start disconnecting the wires so you can fully open it.
Then just reverse the order when closing it back up.


----------



## Logi7

So theyre the same panel without the AG coating and all?

I was thinking about swapping everything including the lower board (that connects to the logic board) under the metal cover on the back of the panel


----------



## Xibal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Well I was trying to give you ways to identify. and the two are if you don't see the LED pcb just by looking through the grills and the double micro jacks on the back. Just open it uo and look. Sometimes the manufacturer doesn't screw in the led pcb so it's not in the right spot where it's clearly,y visible when looking through the grill. One of my monitors is the new revision and I couldn't see a led pcb, so I opened oit up to double check and I was right, no led pcb and there were 2 small looking pipes in between the dvi and power connector. The other two didn't; have that.


Out of curiosity, what serial number did they stamp on the monitor that has the 2 small looking pipes.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> The other thing you can do is call paypal and tell them what's happening and tell them you want a full refund. Do this as soon as possible. While you still under that 45 days


Thank you! That's a very good advice. I had escalated the dispute to claim last night, but the seller still is not responding to the claim, it just sits there, and paypal's website states the claim would take up to 30 days to resolve, so I think I should call paypal tomorrow to speak to a live person and ask for assistance in getting my refund in a more timely manner, because the seller is playing some kind of game now that doesn't make any sense to me, but they may actually know what they are doing while I don't.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> It is Monday afternoon here, early morning Tuesday in Korea. Looks like they have chosen to ignore my emails.
> What should I do from here? file a paypal dispute? I didn't buy it on eBay, never would had thought the seller would just refuse communication.
> I had sent all my messages both with regular email and with paypal resolution center messages, should I wait for another day or should I escalate to paypal claims of "defected and damaged products and seller ignored all my communications"?
> Thanks in advance for any advice.


I would file a PayPal dispute. How long ago did you first order it? If it's been more than 2 weeks something's clearly wrong because delivery of Korean monitors usually take a week max.


----------



## oomer0739

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oomer0739*
> 
> Hi, i just joined overclock.net today although i have been researching these threads for info on crossover monitors for a while now.
> My monitor (crossover 27q led) is en route from korea at the moment, i hope to take delivery on tuesday at the latest, i live in the uk and have been tracking the route with fedex for a couple of days now, strange route to uk, it went from seoul to china then on to germany where it is right now waiting to make the last stage to the uk (i hope).
> For your info i purchased the monitor on ebay from ASTROBILE, and i must say that so far he has been great, good communication and has responded quickly to any questions that i have considering the 9 hour time difference between uk and korea.
> Cant wait to get it up and running.
> will update you on progress when i can.
> oomer0739


Monitor arrived today, took 6 days from korea to uk, minimal damage to box but well packaged inside with plenty of bubble wrap.
Very pleased with it, setup was fairly straightforward and when it kicked into life i was stunned at the clarity and eye popping colours.
I have had a quick check for dead/stuck pixels and so far have found none but on a white background there is some yellowing at the bottom of the screen but i can live with that, minimal backlight bleed in a dark room, looking through the back panel it seems i have a green pcb.
I was a bit worried about whether my humble graphics card (GTX260) would handle the resolution but so far seems to be coping well although a new gpu will probably be my next purchase.





images are from my phone so not very good!....
all in all it cost me £232 from ASTROBILE on EBAY.

oomer0739 is a happy bunny.......


----------



## borgqueenx

Oomer thanks for saying it, although why did younlook at the color of the pcb? Why does that matter?^^


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Oomer thanks for saying it, although why did younlook at the color of the pcb? Why does that matter?^^


Older revisions of this type of monitors had a blue LED PCB board, this board had potential of a overheating/burning mosfet.
Newer types are shipped with a green PCB that has more mosfets, these do not have overheating issues anymore.

Mine actually has no separate LED PCB at all, i only have a main PCB (green).


----------



## oomer0739

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Oomer thanks for saying it, although why did younlook at the color of the pcb? Why does that matter?^^


I think some of the early ones had a troublesome blue board......


----------



## borgqueenx

ah thanks. so i need to hope for a green board in the back and not a blue one.

Im wondering, the pixel perfect versions of these displays are about 70usd more expensive so not sure if i want a perfect pixel version.

Who bought a non pixel perfect version and got 1 stuck or dead pixel or less?

thanks!


----------



## telemach

guys if you want to see PCB with microjacks just check my images, I got this version from BCC last week;
today I sent back monitor on BCC cost and we will see what will happen next because they will complain to Crossover


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telemach*
> 
> guys if you want to see PCB with microjacks just check my images, I got this version from BCC last week;
> today I sent back monitor on BCC cost and we will see what will happen next because they will complain to Crossover


Youre also talking about a blue board?
link the pictures please. This topic is too big.
Il just ask seller to aend version with green board in back.


----------



## stn0092

Can anyone link me to a set of good pictures of the Crossover with tempered glass? I want to compare it to the Shimian, but I can't find any pictures of a Crossover with tempered glass.


----------



## WHYUMAD

I just received my Crossover 2720 monitors from Dream-Seller, but the power brick has a Type E outlet plug, I need type A (USA). Where can I get an AC Adapter brick from that will be compatible with the 2720? Will this work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-AC-Adapter-Charger-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/230838320475?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D13773%26meid%3D3951275761977174736%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1080%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D280673899776%26

Let me know ASAP!!! Thanks alot.


----------



## user33

I have a major issue with the 27Q LED-P screen: it is impossible to wipe off any finger marks, and when I use micro-fiber lint-free screen wipes with a drop of bottle water to try to clean up the finger marks, the water marks are impossible wipe off, my brand new monitor now looks absolutely horrible.

I am not sure if it was due to the screen coating material that dissolves when in contact with water (pure bottled water, not even tap water which could have impurities), which doesn't sound like very likely (who would make such screen with coating that dissolves in water?), but the fact is, I am unable to wipe off the finger marks and water marks. I didn't use any cleaner, just pure water, and lint-free screen-wipes.

I would like to know if this is a known issue, or it is just another defect of the monitor that I have, and I would appreciate any tips/instructions of how to clean the Crossover screens.

Thanks so much!


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oomer0739*
> 
> Monitor arrived today, took 6 days from korea to uk, minimal damage to box but well packaged inside with plenty of bubble wrap.
> Very pleased with it, setup was fairly straightforward and when it kicked into life i was stunned at the clarity and eye popping colours.
> I have had a quick check for dead/stuck pixels and so far have found none but on a white background there is some yellowing at the bottom of the screen but i can live with that, minimal backlight bleed in a dark room, looking through the back panel it seems i have a green pcb.
> I was a bit worried about whether my humble graphics card (GTX260) would handle the resolution but so far seems to be coping well although a new gpu will probably be my next purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> images are from my phone so not very good!....
> all in all it cost me £232 from ASTROBILE on EBAY.
> oomer0739 is a happy bunny.......


Only gaming at 1440p will be potentially laggy depending on which games you play. If you play games like BF3 and other recently released games then you should upgrade.

However if you're just doing officework or browsing the Internet then there's no reason to upgrade.


----------



## MoMann

How big is the top and bottom bezel. I want to get some for eyefinity portrait mode.

EDIT: Ok just found that the top bezel is 1.5 and the bottom is 3cm.

EDIT 2: Ok so if everything goes well with my client tomorrow then I will be buying three of these now and two more later for eyefinity in portrait mode. Which seller has the best return policy?


----------



## Erdrick

Hey guys, new here. After days and days of reading about this monitor i pulled the trigger and got one. Got basic one from lightnspace...communication was very prompted. Only thing is i did not get it packaged like most of you guys have, just the box that monitor came in. Ordered it on 11/29 and got it today! 12/6.

No, dead pixels.. however when i set screen full black you can see a blueish spot on top right of monitor.. here are pics of monitor.

Here is the power brick i got with it. So far is working great.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/811/monitor1s.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/824/monitor2q.jpg/
Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/515/monitor3.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/photo3unr.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/newmonitorpic7.jpg/

As you can see, the last pic show the blue spot i was talking about...(My apologies for bad pics) Really doesn't bother me cause i only see it when screen is fully black, but knowing is there sucks lol. You think its a cluster of dead pixels? or something else?.

I tried massaging it and tapping on it. nothing.


----------



## Koehler

They're not dead pixels. Dead pixels don't receive any power. Dead pixels would be completely black on a white background.

What you have are stuck pixels. Stuck pixels receive power and may repair themselves over time. Your case doesn't look bad.

Here's an explanation differentiating dead pixels from stuck pixels and hot pixels:

http://photographylife.com/dead-vs-stuck-vs-hot-pixels

If it bothers you, you can always return it.


----------



## Crazy9000

Try massaging/tapping fairly hard. My GF had a laptop with two stuck pixels, and I had to flick them fairly hard to get them to work proper.


----------



## MoMann

Which seller has the best return policy?


----------



## telemach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoMann*
> 
> Which seller has the best return policy?


AW probably but BCC is very good also; he gave me his DHL code and I send back on his cost


----------



## MoMann

Ok yeah I will probably get mine from bcc


----------



## twerk

If I was to go with the Crossover 27Q, what is the best variant because I see many different ones.
27QD LED blade
27QD-P LED blade
27QLED
27QLED-P
They all seem similar, what are the differences? Thanks.


----------



## borgqueenx

Difference is the looks. Is this monitor overclockable to 65 or 70hz by the way?


----------



## kn0x-

Just received my "Pixel Perfect" Crossover 27Q from Lightnspace yesterday.

Hooked it up to my late 2012 Mac Mini, via an Apple Mini Display Port -> Dual Link DVI

At first I had a snowy display, but that went away after turning the monitor on and off, and haven't seen it since.
Overall picture is really good, no dead or stuck pixels - but the monitor I have received is far from perfect, it has a major flaw that I would trade for a stuck pixel any day.

It produces burn-ins very easily; the pictures I have posted below is taken after leaving a browser window open for ~ 2 minutes, and shortly after I opened a text editor with a dark background where the browser window was located.

Anyone else had/seen this ?


----------



## Erdrick

*@ AndyM95* Well... to give you an idea about one of them. Look at my post #3801. the one i got is: Crossover 27QD LED BLADE 27" Inch 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor DVI-D New from lightnspace, he is very responsive to questions. At least to me he was.

Anyways.. I had to mount mine on the wall, the stand does not move at all!!!! and when you lay it on the desk it sits on an obtuse position, like leaning backwards it SUCKS!

By the way, Koehler thank you for the heads up bud. Still no go on fading away or antything.. Hopefully it will fade away with time, if not.. doesn't matter to me since i have to look for it.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kn0x-*
> 
> Just received my "Pixel Perfect" Crossover 27Q from Lightnspace yesterday.
> Hooked it up to my late 2012 Mac Mini, via an Apple Mini Display Port -> Dual Link DVI
> At first I had a snowy display, but that went away after turning the monitor on and off, and haven't seen it since.
> Overall picture is really good, no dead or stuck pixels - but the monitor I have received is far from perfect, it has a major flaw that I would trade for a stuck pixel any day.
> It produces burn-ins very easily; the pictures I have posted below is taken after leaving a browser window open for ~ 2 minutes, and shortly after I opened a text editor with a dark background where the browser window was located.
> Anyone else had/seen this ?


**** that looks bad
Tell us how seller responded to this issue. I'd send a message right away!


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndyM95*
> 
> If I was to go with the Crossover 27Q, what is the best variant because I see many different ones.
> 
> 27QD-P LED blade
> 27QLED
> 27QLED-P
> They all seem similar, what are the differences? Thanks.


Check the first page in this thread, OP made a list of all (if not, most) the models and their specifications.

In short:

The 27QD LED blade is build of plastic instead of aluminum, it has build-in speakers and volume/brightness control by OSD.
The 27QLED is made of aluminum and only has a power on/off button and 2 brightness buttons.
The 27QLED-P is exacly the same monitor as the 27QLED but it has a pivot stand instead. So you can turn your screen into portrait mode.


----------



## JJ1217

First time poster, just bought one of these bad boys from BCC for $390. What is this power brick issue? I live in Australia, so we have 240V connections. The one that comes with the monitor is supported in my country, but I don't trust it, so what is a good one to buy from eBay or something?

Appreciate the help.

Hopefully I get this soon, I have a friend with a Catleap and it looked stunning when I first saw it.

I am also upgrading from a very old 1080p monitor (Was bought in late 2008), so hopefully itll look alot better.

WOOP WOOP.


----------



## vuman619

No issues with my brand new Crossover 27Q LED-P,

I ordered mine on Friday afternoon and it arrived on Monday morning, 3 days from Korea to Australia! that's pretty good.

Box was a bit damaged, hole in the bottom and broken handles, but the monitor was well padded and not a single defect or mark was found.

I have tested and there are no Dead or stuck pixels and zero backlight bleed as well, coming from an old 17 inch LCD to this is mind blowing to say the least, I didn't know so many colours existed haha.

Seller - Dream-Seller


----------



## vuman619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> First time poster, just bought one of these bad boys from BCC for $390. What is this power brick issue? I live in Australia, so we have 240V connections. The one that comes with the monitor is supported in my country, but I don't trust it, so what is a good one to buy from eBay or something?
> Appreciate the help.
> Hopefully I get this soon, I have a friend with a Catleap and it looked stunning when I first saw it.
> I am also upgrading from a very old 1080p monitor (Was bought in late 2008), so hopefully itll look alot better.
> WOOP WOOP.


The power brick works fine, just get the regular IEC plug to 3 prong that you get with any old monitor/printers/PSU's/etc.

I''m from AUS as well.


----------



## borgqueenx

No not buy the crossover from ifgmarket!!

http://d.pr/i/xOqz

I asked if he would pay shipping back at more then 3 dead or stuck pixels and this is how he replied.


----------



## Xibal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vuman619*
> 
> The power brick works fine, just get the regular IEC plug to 3 prong that you get with any old monitor/printers/PSU's/etc.
> I''m from AUS as well.


Same here, the power brick works fine here in Australia, mine is branded weltronics with that green QA sticker.


----------



## Moos

I recently purchased a 27QLED-P from lightnspace. Took 3 days to get to the US and communication was very promt. I am very impressed with this monitor. Total cost was $370.


----------



## JJ1217

I think he means there is like a 100% chance of getting at least one dead pixel, he probably misunderstood your question.


----------



## twerk

What experiences have you guys had with the seller *lightnspace* on eBay? I'm looking to buy a Crossover 27Q LED-P from them.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndyM95*
> 
> What experiences have you guys had with the seller lighnspace on eBay? I'm looking to buy a Crossover 27Q LED-P from them.


Seller bigclothcraft is about 50usd more esxensive, but she had not had a negative feedback from forums before.(at least couldnt find it) she pays your shipping costs if you need to send it back.
You have a good chance lightnspace will not honour the 1 year warrenty, and you pay the shipping costs back to him if doa.

That said, lightnspace has a policy for max 3 stuck or dead pixels, versus the 5 max at bigclothcraft.

And, i also need to say i didnt hear bad things from seller lightnspace as well...

I also doubt what seller of these i will purchase at. Lightnspace or bigclothcraft ...some feedback from other buyers would be great.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndyM95*
> 
> What experiences have you guys had with the seller *lightnspace* on eBay? I'm looking to buy a Crossover 27Q LED-P from them.


Lightnspace and ASTTROBILE is the same seller, I purchased 2 27Q LED-P from ASTROBLIE two weeks ago, one of the monitor has over 20 stuck green pixels along the right edge of the screen, I contacted the seller ASTROBILE aka Lightnspace) asked for a replacement, the seller had refused communication: not a single reply since last Friday. Even after I opened Paypal dispute case, and later escalated to Paypal claim, the seller still did not respond to my request.

I would advise not to deal with this seller, because if you received defective monitor(s), you will be out of luck, the seller won't even respond to you. My case is being investigated and is to be decided by Paypal in 30 days. Not worth the risk buying from this seller. Yes his price is the lowest on eBay, but there are reasons why his price is lower than other sellers, and I found that out the hard way, and I hope no one else had to go through what I am going through with this seller.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> .....
> And, i also need to say i didnt hear bad things from seller lightnspace as well...


Well, now you do, please read my post before this one.


----------



## rck1984

I have been hearing good things of Accesorieswhole, Green-sum, Bigclothcraft, dream-seller and Red-cap.

A lot of people are still confused about the different Pixel policies from seller to seller, therefore:

On *NON*-pixel perfect screens (taken from their Ebay pages):

*Accesorieswhole*: A maximum of 3 defective Pixel (Including Dead/Stuck/Sub Pixel)
*Euroinside*: A maximum of 5 defective pixels.
*Lightnspace*: A maximum of 1 defective pixel in the centre, and/or 3 defective pixels on the rest of the screen.
*Bigclothcraft*: A maximum of 5 defective pixels.
*Allkillsale*: A maximum of 10 defective pixels.
*Dream-seller*: No clear description on their Ebay page.
*Red-cap*: More then 20 defective pixels from a 50cm view distance.
*ta_planet:* A Maximum of 5 defective pixels.
*Green-sum:* A maximum of 1 defective pixel in the center, and/or 3 defective pixels on the rest of the screen.

Return policies are a little tricky and not always explained well, i would contact a seller on forehand before ordering your monitors to be sure.

I ordered my pixel perfect Crossover 27Q LED from Red-cap, received it in perfect shape, zero dead/stuck pixels and minimum backlight bleeding. Red-cap takes care of the return shipping fee themselves: "We accept returning a defective monitor and will pay the return shipping fee"

Good luck!


----------



## borgqueenx

A other person said red cap didnt honour the 1 year warrenty.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> A other person said red cap didnt honour the 1 year warrenty.


If they advertise with it, they have to as far as i know. Else you can contact eBay and possibly claim eBay Buyers Protection.


----------



## MenacingTuba

PM me if interest in buying my calibrated, back-light bleed and dead pixel free CrossOver 2720MDP Gold, it is the one featured in my last two reviews as the "reference display," and in my review here:





It works perfectly, except it flickers a bit when turned on around two minutes and when I Vesa mounted it one of the screws could not be screwed all the way in so I had to cut it off. There is a scuff mark on the back since I used a hacksaw. Also I removed the terrible stand and I'm not going to re-open it to reattach the stand.

I need $ to pay for school textbooks next semester. It is not going to be super cheap (I live in Canada, it costs 75$ to ship a monitor to the states, think of it as buying a risk free, flawless display.


----------



## borgqueenx

Thanks user33, i wont purchase from those guys then.
That leaves accesoireswhole or bigclothcraft.


----------



## importflip

Got mine from dream-seller yesterday. No dead pixels.


----------



## borgqueenx

Ah yes dream seller....anyone have bad experiences with him?


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

If I bought a non-perfect pixel monitor from accessorieswhole, what are the chances that I would get a dead/stuck pixel(s)?

edit: would I be better off buying a pixel perfect monitor from dream seller or accessorieswhole ?


----------



## PvtHudson

Got my 2720MDP from dream-seller just recently. There was a 2 day delay in the shipping. When I got my monitor he included a note saying he opened up the monitor and tested it before shipping it to me. When he tested it, he found a lot of dead pixels so he returned it to the manufacturer and got a new one for me which he tested as well. Why he didn't just send me another unit I have no idea. Either way, the unit I got has no dead pixels and very little backlight bleed in the lower right hand corner. A near perfect unit. This was not a "perfect pixel" BS version.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PvtHudson*
> 
> Got my 2720MDP from dream-seller just recently. There was a 2 day delay in the shipping. When I got my monitor he included a note saying he opened up the monitor and tested it before shipping it to me. When he tested it, he found a lot of dead pixels so he returned it to the manufacturer and got a new one for me which he tested as well. Why he didn't just send me another unit I have no idea. Either way, the unit I got has no dead pixels and very little backlight bleed in the lower right hand corner. A near perfect unit. This was not a "perfect pixel" BS version.


Its the same note we all get from Dream-Seller, I got the same one for my 27Q non-pixel perfect and ended up being pixel perfect


----------



## borgqueenx

Lol now we all think good of dream seller because that note all his customers get xd

If someone got his crossover from dream seller already for more then 45 days could you send a message stating the monitor broke and you want to send it back to him? Tell youve tried everything to get it working- make it sad and believable.
I want to see if he honours warranty or just doesnt care.


----------



## nekonet

which ebay seller would you guys recommend who is selling the crossover for under 350? also anyone using the active displayport to dvi-d dual link adapter on a triple screen setup? how's the performance?


----------



## dafoomie

Had a little problem a few pages back with the screen flickering, going black, etc, it turned out to be the cable. New cable from Monoprice fixed it immediately.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dafoomie*
> 
> Had a little problem a few pages back with the screen flickering, going black, etc, it turned out to be the cable. New cable from Monoprice fixed it immediately.


Great


----------



## user33

The DELL 27U13MH was selling in DELL's Australia web store for one week till yesterday, for $559, with DELL's buy $400 gift card get $75 GC free, the deal was $484! Many people had gotten that deal, I found that out too late (today).

Todday Amazon had the same $559 deal with free shipping, it sold out quickly.

The hell with the "pixel perfect" crossover monitors that cost more than $500, I just got 2 27Q LED-P two weeks ago, one totally defective, both with servere backlight bleed, and the "workmanship" for these monitors are really sub-class, like they were made by some home-grown run-by-mill third world sweat-shops. Many people had reported premature death of these Korean monitors (not specific to Corssover, but generally to these Korean 27" IPS LG monitors), and judging from the "built" of the monitors (one of the monitor's power switch became defective after only one week of extremely light use, mainly for testing and color calibration process), I have serious doubt that many of these monitors would "live" after few month to couple of years of light use.

Buying from the Korean seller also has a huge risk! The seller had not responded to my communication for almost 10 days now, and Paypal is not helping either, they just hold the money letting the seller and buyer to sort things out on their own....this entire experience has been extremely negative, yet in these nearly 400 pages about the Crossover monitors, no one seemed to care to express their negative views, I am not convinced that I am the only one who had the bad experience with these Korean monitors, I want to warn the potential buyers to think critically and independently before drawing any conclusions, and be careful not to be swayed by the "enthusiasm" they see in this forum, because the reality is VERY DIFFERENT than what they read in this forum.

I apologize if this offends any enthusiastic club members, this is my personal view, an honest one, which I believe should be allowed to be expressed, let the buyer be aware!


----------



## user33

OK, I want to be fair: there are a lot of complaints about the PCB boards, and flickering, color stripes, and other problems from "unlucky" members, but I somehow I failed to register them as warning signs, I regarded them as exceptions to the norm, due to the fact that I was "blinded" by the overwhelmingly positive posts from the majority of the posts here, that was entirely my own fault, I can't blame anyone for that but myself.

My experience with these monitors physically has let me to believe that these monitor are not worth any enthusiasm at the current price, if they were $200 I would say it's worth to take the gamble. At $400 to $500, it's way too expensive, with practically no warranty (after 14-30 days we had to pay the shipping back and forth between Korea and USA/EUROPE/AUSSY..), and absolutely zero workmanship (I had read some monitors have "missed" to include the HDML ports for the models that supposed to have HDML ports, now that's hell of some "workmanship" and "quality assurance (QA)" isn't it?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PvtHudson*
> 
> Got my 2720MDP from dream-seller just recently. There was a 2 day delay in the shipping. When I got my monitor he included a note saying he opened up the monitor and tested it before shipping it to me. When he tested it, he found a lot of dead pixels so he returned it to the manufacturer and got a new one for me which he tested as well. Why he didn't just send me another unit I have no idea. Either way, the unit I got has no dead pixels and very little backlight bleed in the lower right hand corner. A near perfect unit. This was not a "perfect pixel" BS version.


Great to see that they're checking the monitors before sending.

So they do this extra manufacturing checkup even if you don't purchase the perfect pixel guarantee?

Awesome.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> OK, I want to be fair: there are a lot of complaints about the PCB boards, and flickering, color stripes, and other problems from "unlucky" members, but I somehow I failed to register them as warning signs, I regarded them as exceptions to the norm, due to the fact that I was "blinded" by the overwhelmingly positive posts from the majority of the posts here, that was entirely my own fault, I can't blame anyone for that but myself.
> My experience with these monitors physically has let me to believe that these monitor are not worth any enthusiasm at the current price, if they were $200 I would say it's worth to take the gamble. At $400 to $500, it's way too expensive, with practically no warranty (after 14-30 days we had to pay the shipping back and forth between Korea and USA/EUROPE/AUSSY..), and absolutely zero workmanship (I had read some monitors have "missed" to include the HDML ports for the models that supposed to have HDML ports, now that's hell of some "workmanship" and "quality assurance (QA)" isn't it?


Buy from the right seller and you do have warrenty.
This crossover is made of aluminium, has a sturdy stand and indeed far less reported problems.
There are alot different people buying these lg panels...you get different craftmanship at each other seller. This one has the best chance of success so far.


----------



## Xibal

Aluminum, feels more like steel to me, and powder coated too.


----------



## stn0092

What's different about the Crossover 2720 and the 2730? I'm seeing both in my searches on eBay, but can't tell if it's just a typo or not.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stn0092*
> 
> What's different about the Crossover 2720 and the 2730? I'm seeing both in my searches on eBay, but can't tell if it's just a typo or not.


Looks like the only difference is 2730 has no display port while 2720 has the display port. It's counter intuitive to name the higher model number that is a step down from the lower number model, but that appears to be the game they are playing.

On eBay 2720 has a higher price tag than 2730, that should be an indication that the 2730 is indeed a step down from 2720.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Buy from the right seller and you do have warrenty.
> This crossover is made of aluminium, has a sturdy stand and indeed far less reported problems.
> There are alot different people buying these lg panels...you get different craftmanship at each other seller. This one has the best chance of success so far.


They are not made of aluminium, but the cheap steal, like those used in the appliances in 1950s! get one of the monitor for yourself and you will see what kind of "craftsmanship" they have: NONE! these rejected LG panels slapped together in mom and pop garage shops in Korea, the far east, not the same consumer grade monitors we are used to in the west.
Quote:


> This one has the best chance of success so far.


Well, I feel very sorry for those who spent $300 to $500 Plus for the cheap Korean monitors that has no success, myself included, unfortunately. At least I have the honesty to come out to admit that it was a big failure, but how many of those who are disappointed with what they have gotten actually admit that they made a bad decision and got screwed by the Koreans? The human "pride" had prevented them to mentally accept and admit that they had been screwed, so instead they were more likely to post the exact opposite of how they feel in this forum, by praising these Korean monitors, isn't that the truth?


----------



## Xibal

don't know about that, but you get what you paid for. I've seen worst craftsmanship from products made locally so the crossover sheet metal folds aren't that half bad.


----------



## borgqueenx

Well ive heard good enough stuff about this monitor. Combined with a good seller and thus warrenty we get a good choice i think.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> They are not made of aluminium, but the cheap steal, like those used in the appliances in 1950s! get one of the monitor for yourself and you will see what kind of "craftsmanship" they have: NONE! these rejected LG panels slapped together in mom and pop garage shops in Korea, the far east, not the same consumer grade monitors we are used to in the west.
> Well, I feel very sorry for those who spent $300 to $500 Plus for the cheap Korean monitors that has no success, myself included, unfortunately. At least I have the honesty to come out to admit that it was a big failure, but how many of those who are disappointed with what they have gotten actually admit that they made a bad decision and got screwed by the Koreans? The human "pride" had prevented them to mentally accept and admit that they had been screwed, so instead they were more likely to post the exact opposite of how they feel in this forum, by praising these Korean monitors, isn't that the truth?


There is really nothing wrong with the "craftmanship" of the Crossover monitors, its not aluminum but some kind of steel, yes.
I have seen worse quality screens from famous manufacturers such as Asus and Samsung. Like someone already said before me, you get what you pay for.

If you want "top-notch" build quality/design, go for Apple/Dell or so and pay a premium price-tag.
I rather have the exact same panel quality for half the price.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> They are not made of aluminium, but the cheap steal, like those used in the appliances in 1950s! get one of the monitor for yourself and you will see what kind of "craftsmanship" they have: NONE! these rejected LG panels slapped together in mom and pop garage shops in Korea, the far east, not the same consumer grade monitors we are used to in the west.
> Well, I feel very sorry for those who spent $300 to $500 Plus for the cheap Korean monitors that has no success, myself included, unfortunately. At least I have the honesty to come out to admit that it was a big failure, but how many of those who are disappointed with what they have gotten actually admit that they made a bad decision and got screwed by the Koreans? The human "pride" had prevented them to mentally accept and admit that they had been screwed, so instead they were more likely to post the exact opposite of how they feel in this forum, by praising these Korean monitors, isn't that the truth?


We aren't buying them for the quality craftmanship... people buy them because in the end, the screens look exactly the same for a few hundred cheaper.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> ....
> I rather have the exact same panel quality for half the price.


You are not getting the "exact same panel quality" in these Crossover monitors, these are rejected panels, panels that are not good enough for DELL/HP/APPLE and other legit manufacturers. and you are also not getting the same quality for all other parts of these Korean monitors like you would with DELL/HP/APPLE. Get yourself a DELL or APPLE, next to one of these Korean monitors, and see it yourself!

My point is: the price difference between a DELL and a Crossover 27" monitor has narrowed to the point now that it no longer makes any logical sense to save few dollars for these cheap, poorly built, unreliable, questionable-warranty, high-cost-for-return-shipping-for-repairs, Korean monitors. A supremely built DELL U2713HM monitor with multiple video input ports, USB-3 hubs, sturdy stand, no dead pixels, no backlight bleed, 3 year warranty, using only the highest grade LG panels, for $484 to $559 from DELL or Amazon, beats any Korean Korean monitors sold on eBay from even the best sellers like AW.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> We aren't buying them for the quality craftmanship... people buy them because in the end, the screens look exactly the same for a few hundred cheaper.


You are absolutely correct for that point, but the poor quality/workmanship could mean that your "look exactly the same" monitor is also much, much likely to go wrong within a much shorter period of time than the DELL/HP/APPLE monitors, and DELL is about the same price to slightly more than a pixel perfect Crossover now. Time has changed, so shall we.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> You are not getting the "exact same panel quality" in these Crossover monitors, these are rejected panels, panels that are not good enough for DELL/HP/APPLE and other legit manufacturers. and you are also not getting the same quality for all other parts of these Korean monitors like you would with DELL/HP/APPLE. Get yourself a DELL or APPLE, next to one of these Korean monitors, and see it yourself!


My girlfriend and my best friend both own a iMac 27". I see no difference between their screens and mine, neither do they.
I have seen several Dell and Apple monitors that had worst backlight bleeding for example, than my Crossover 27Q LED...

If they put one of these so called "rejected" panels into a Apple/Dell housing, i can tell you, you won't be able to see the difference and you would think your looking at your premium price-tag A+ screen.

I don't know what experience you had with one of these Korean monitors, and i would understand your frustration if you were unlucky to get a faulty one, but half of what your saying is not true and/or totally exaggerated. If you want a "perfect" build and designed monitor with an A+ panel, go ahead and get yourself a Dell/HP/Apple for around $1000. I rather pay $300-350 for something similar without the mighty apple logo or Dell symbols.

These monitors are perfect bang for the buck and i can recommend them to anyone.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> You are not getting the "exact same panel quality" in these Crossover monitors, these are rejected panels, panels that are not good enough for DELL/HP/APPLE and other legit manufacturers. and you are also not getting the same quality for all other parts of these Korean monitors like you would with DELL/HP/APPLE. Get yourself a DELL or APPLE, next to one of these Korean monitors, and see it yourself!
> *My point is: the price difference between a DELL and a Crossover 27" monitor has narrowed to the point now that it no longer makes any logical sense to save few dollars for these cheap, poorly built, unreliable, questionable-warranty, high-cost-for-return-shipping-for-repairs, Korean monitors. A supremely built DELL U2713HM monitor with multiple video input ports, USB-3 hubs, sturdy stand, no dead pixels, no backlight bleed, 3 year warranty, using only the highest grade LG panels, for $484 to $559 from DELL or Amazon, beats any Korean Korean monitors sold on eBay from even the best sellers like AW*.


Not everybody lives in the US.

The cheapest Dell 27" monitors in my country go for $1035 us dollar. I bought my Crossover for about $350 us dollar. That's three times less...
Poorly build is your opinion, i have seen worst build monitors from known manufacturers such as Asus/HP/Samsung. High-cost-for-return-shipping-for-repairs is nonsense also, i pay zero for returning my screen if its defect. (advertised by seller and i contacted the seller with this specific question).

To pick one more comment out: "No backlight bleeding" - You are joking right?? I have seen so many DELL screens with awful backlight bleeding, even on OCN.

Again, i can highly recommend these monitors to anyone. They are truly amazing for their price-tag. Image quality is totally on par with my girlfriends iMac.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> half of what your saying is not true and/or totally exaggerated.


Please help me by point out the half that was not true. I am not being sarcastic, I honestly post what I believe to be true based on my actual experience with 2 Crossover 27Q LED-P monitors that I now own.
Quote:


> If you want a "perfect" build and designed monitor with an A+ panel, go ahead and get yourself a Dell/HP/Apple for around $1000. I rather pay $300-350 for something similar without the mighty apple logo or Dell symbols.
> These monitors are perfect bang for the buck and i can recommend them to anyone.


That would had been true few months ago, but a DELL U2713HM could be bought for as little as $484 from DELL last week, or $559 yesterday from Amazon, and I am sure these price will soon become the norm, there simply is no reason to buy a A- panel Crossover with all these inherited troubles or potential troubles discussed in these 386 pages here.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> *Please help me by point out the half that was not true*. I am not being sarcastic, I honestly post what I believe to be true based on my actual experience with 2 Crossover 27Q LED-P monitors that I now own.
> That would had been true few months ago, but a DELL U2713HM could be bought for as little as $484 from DELL last week, or $559 yesterday from Amazon, and I am sure these price will soon become the norm, there simply is no reason to buy a A- panel Crossover with all these inherited troubles or potential troubles discussed in these 386 pages here.


To pick just one out:
Quote:


> Get yourself a DELL or APPLE, next to one of these Korean monitors, and see it yourself!


I own a Crossover 27Q LED myself, my girlfriend has a 27" iMac. I am telling you, there is NO difference in screen quality at all. Also both screen have zero stuck/dead pixels and minimum backlight bleeding.

You are pointing at the troubles and/or potential troubles discussed in the past 400 pages, but far most of the people owning these Crossover screens are happy and totally satisfied and do not regret their purchase at all. And again, I am not living in the US. DELL monitors cost about 800 euro here, that's $1000 US dollars! that's THREE TIMES as much as my Crossover for the exact same picture quality.

I understand you are frustrated if you received a faulty monitor or one that didn't match your expectations, but in my opinion you are exaggerating and spreading biased information.


----------



## borgqueenx

Like someone else said we dont all live in the us.
In europe cheapest s-ips screen is 460 euro vs a crossover from BCC for 325 euro. And that s-ips screen of 460 euro has full hd, not more as resolution.
Bcc pays the return costs herself when DOA, and honours 1 year warrenty from what i have seen so far.

Still, i am very nervous about ordering one thanks to smaller issueses...i can live with 5 dead pixels or stuck pixels. But not more, and not alot of dust or snow or other issueses...there can go alot wrong here.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Like someone else said we dont all live in the us.
> In europe cheapest s-ips screen is 460 euro vs a crossover from BCC for 325 euro. And that s-ips screen of 460 euro has full hd, not more as resolution.
> Bcc pays the return costs herself when DOA, and honours 1 year warrenty from what i have seen so far.
> Still, i am very nervous about ordering one thanks to smaller issueses...i can live with 5 dead pixels or stuck pixels. But not more, and not alot of dust or snow or other issueses...there can go alot wrong here.


I understand your afraid of pulling the trigger on one of these.
If you want a "perfect" monitor, why don't you order a pixel perfect one from one of the known reliable sellers?
I ordered a pixel perfect one from Red-cap, received it in perfect shape, zero dead/stuck pixels and minimum backlight bleeding.
Red-cap also pays the return shipping cost on defects.

As said twice before, i can totally recommend these monitors. I'd say, pull the trigger and get yourself one. You wont regret it.
There is far more people that are satisfied and happy of their purchase, than people that are not.


----------



## borgqueenx

Pixel perfect versions are pixel perfect...like i said i can live with that. But not a monitor that flickers fails snows bleeds light -alot- and other ****.
A pixel perfect can have those problems too.


----------



## F0zzie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Lightnspace and ASTTROBILE is the same seller, I purchased 2 27Q LED-P from ASTROBLIE two weeks ago, one of the monitor has over 20 stuck green pixels along the right edge of the screen, I contacted the seller ASTROBILE aka Lightnspace) asked for a replacement, the seller had refused communication: not a single reply since last Friday. Even after I opened Paypal dispute case, and later escalated to Paypal claim, the seller still did not respond to my request.
> I would advise not to deal with this seller, because if you received defective monitor(s), you will be out of luck, the seller won't even respond to you. My case is being investigated and is to be decided by Paypal in 30 days. Not worth the risk buying from this seller. Yes his price is the lowest on eBay, but there are reasons why his price is lower than other sellers, and I found that out the hard way, and I hope no one else had to go through what I am going through with this seller.


I bought from Lightnspace the same screen a month ago, I discussed the term of buying and the screen condition through ebay massages in case there's a problem, he did answer all of my questions promptly. I got a perfect screen and planning to go for another one, but after reading your post I'm not sure I'm going to buy for him again. The screen came to me in perfect condition by luck, most of the package (just the screen original box) was turn that you could see the screen itself, that was scary.

Considering that Paypal doesn't protect you completely (they want you to pay the shipping back fee), it's a $100< gamble.

The only sellers that have consist good reviews is AccessoriesWhole and Bigclothcraft but they sell this screen about $50-100 more than others.

It's a hard decision...


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Pixel perfect versions are pixel perfect...like i said i can live with that. But not a monitor that flickers fails snows bleeds light -alot- and other ****.
> A pixel perfect can have those problems too.


That's a risk you have to take.
No one can tell you on forehand if you get one without a single issue at all. That does not only count for these Korean monitors, that can also happen with a Dell/Apple.
Just make sure you purchase of a seller that pays the possible return shipping cost. In the worst case, you end up with sending it back and getting a replacement or a refund.

On forums, people often highlight the negative stuff. That's the general thing with forums in my opinion.

But there is always a chance of getting one with a defect, that counts for every purchase from anywhere. Not only for these Korean monitors.


----------



## MoMann

How is BCC's one year return policy? Like if mine breaks in 8 months will he pay return shipping?


----------



## JJ1217

Yeah I think so, I haven't gotten mine yet, should get it this week. Even then, if it breaks after one year, half the issues are related to the PCB, which you can buy off him for like $20.


----------



## Xibal

The world doesn't revolve around US user33, even though most Americans like to think so.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> High-cost-for-return-shipping-for-repairs is nonsense also, i pay zero for returning my screen if its defect. (advertised by seller and i contacted the seller with this specific question).


I suggest that you should re-read what you had read: the best seller, AW, covers the return shipping for the first 30 Days, the 2nd best seller BCC covers the return shipping for the first 14 days. If your monitor needs warranty repair after 30 dyas, you will had to pay out of your own pocket! DELL/Samsung/HP/ASUS has 3 years warranty! and with them you don't need to send the monitor to Korea for repair!

This will be my last respond to you, since you are not being rational, you are either too "proud" for your decisions to maintain rationality, or you are an employee of Crossover, either way, I have no interest to argue with you, I just to express my own opinions about these Korean monitors and to let the potential buyers be aware of the pitfalls and the hypes of these Korean monitors.


----------



## AMC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Please help me by point out the half that was not true. I am not being sarcastic, I honestly post what I believe to be true based on my actual experience with 2 Crossover 27Q LED-P monitors that I now own.
> That would had been true few months ago, but a *DELL U2713HM could be bought for as little as $484 from DELL last week, or $559 yesterday from Amazon,* and I am sure these price will soon become the norm, there simply is no reason to buy a A- panel Crossover with all these inherited troubles or potential troubles discussed in these 386 pages here.


HOW???


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMC*
> 
> HOW???


http://slickdeals.net/newsearch.php?forumchoice%5B%5D=4&forumchoice%5B%5D=9&forumchoice%5B%5D=10&forumchoice%5B%5D=13&forumchoice%5B%5D=25&forumchoice%5B%5D=30&forumchoice%5B%5D=38&forumchoice%5B%5D=39&forumchoice%5B%5D=41&forumchoice%5B%5D=44&forumchoice%5B%5D=53&forumchoice%5B%5D=54&q=u2713hm&showposts=0&archive=0&firstonly=1

read through the threads from the above link to find out how.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I suggest that you should re-read what you had read: the best seller, AW, covers the return shipping for the first 30 Days, the 2nd best seller BCC covers the return shipping for the first 14 days. If your monitor needs warranty repair after 30 dyas, you will had to pay out of your own pocket! DELL/Samsung/HP/ASUS has 3 years warranty! and with them you don't need to send the monitor to Korea for repair!
> This will be my last respond to you, since you are not being rational, you are either too "proud" for your decisions to maintain rationality, or you are an employee of Crossover, either way, I have no interest to argue with you, I just to express my own opinions about these Korean monitors and to let the potential buyers be aware of the pitfalls and the hypes of these Korean monitors.


I have read it once again, even twice again. I did send the seller an email about this earlier and as far as i know, the payment of return shipping cost is covered by the sellers as long as its within the 1 year warranty period. You keep mentioning Dell/Samsung/HP and Asus, what keeps you from ordering a monitor from one of these manufacturers? By your means, their screens are far superior, then go ahead and order from them but stop spreading completely biased information based on your own bad-luck, or whatever it has been, experience.
Quote:


> This will be my last respond to you, since you are not being rational, you are either too "proud" for your decisions to maintain rationality, or you are an employee of Crossover, either way, I have no interest to argue with you, I just to express my own opinions about these Korean monitors and to let the potential buyers be aware of the pitfalls and the hypes of these Korean monitors


You are starting to make a complete joke of yourself. I am not "proud" neither an employee of Crossover, (since when is The Netherlands part of the middle-east?) i am just arguing with you because i don't agree with what your saying. Boiling out like this, in the middle of this conversation because of the reasons you mentioned above is little lame and immature.

You make it sound like these monitors are crap, bad made out of "cheap metal" with panels that don't get even close to the quality of known manufacturers.
This scares potential buyers and might push them into much higher priced monitors such as Dell/Apple/HP/Asus while these Korean monitors are perfectly fine for the price you pay.

And again, not everybody here on OCN lives in the US, in Europe we don't pay the same price for Dell/Apple as you (*assuming*) American people do. Apple's Thunderbold 27" display has a price-tag of $1300 US dollar, Dell's cheapest 27" UltraSharp U2713HM costs $1034 US dollar here. So please, think twice before saying such things.


----------



## Layo

Speaking for my own country, which is completely terrible and everything here is 50% more than in US I could've purchased cheapest crossover for $450 with all costs and taxes (assuming i cheated and valued the package as $150) I decided to screw that and picked up pretty cheap U2713HM for $615. From what I saw on videos, the korean monitors' stands are beyond pathetic while the Dell has completely awesome and solid as rock stand. Not even talking about the customer service Dell provides and 3 year warranty. While having korean monitor you have to pray for it to even turn on and it's probably going to die within week after warranty expires. Also while RMAing korean monitor those people are making you feel like you are pain in the ass and how dare you to even bother them. Crossover looks very nice but I would rather have known Dell with easy and elegant look which is also awesome. Yes, I've never owned a korean monitor but I've seen tons of videos. If around 3000 sold monitors (all 3 brands) are able to generate around 1500 pages of problems, something must be wrong.
Think about it if the extra $150 is worth it.

Tl;dr, koreans are crap, dell or any other brand (even Acer or ASUS) dominates them. If you want a good screen, save money.


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Speaking for my own country, which is completely terrible and everything here is 50% more than in US I could've purchased cheapest crossover for $450 with all costs and taxes (assuming i cheated and valued the package as $150) I decided to screw that and picked up pretty cheap U2713HM for $615. From what I saw on videos, the korean monitors' stands are beyond pathetic while the Dell has completely awesome and solid as rock stand. Not even talking about the customer service Dell provides and 3 year warranty. While having korean monitor you have to pray for it to even turn on and it's probably going to die within week after warranty expires. Also while RMAing korean monitor those people are making you feel like you are pain in the ass and how dare you to even bother them. Crossover looks very nice but I would rather have known Dell with easy and elegant look which is also awesome. *Yes, I've never owned a korean monitor but I've seen tons of videos. If around 3000 sold monitors (all 3 brands) are able to generate around 1500 pages of problems, something must be wrong.*
> Think about it if the extra $150 is worth it.
> Tl;dr, koreans are crap, dell or any other brand (even Acer or ASUS) dominates them. If you want a good screen, save money.


Stopped reading there, not even going to bother anymore.
Enjoy your awesome Dell monitor, totally free of flaws and superb quality. I am glad many people know better.


----------



## .:hybrid:.

I really want one of these, but the rest of my PC won't be able to game on it anyway :/

How do I check if my GPU support DVI Dual Link?


----------



## borgqueenx

What about experiences with bigclothcraft shipping speed?
She says she needs 1-3 days to check the monitor. Is this 3 days or is it usally paud today shipped tommorow?
Thanks!


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.:hybrid:.*
> 
> I really want one of these, but the rest of my PC won't be able to game on it anyway :/
> How do I check if my GPU support DVI Dual Link?


Pretty sure your 5770 should support it, have a look at this picture and compare it to the inputs on the back of your graphics card


----------



## Xibal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> What about experiences with bigclothcraft shipping speed?
> She says she needs 1-3 days to check the monitor. Is this 3 days or is it usally paud today shipped tommorow?
> Thanks!


usually 1 day, depends on how many orders they have to fill in the week. They use DHL which is one of the best international couriers around (I know cause my company uses them as well)


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> Stopped reading there, not even going to bother anymore.
> Enjoy your awesome Dell monitor, totally free of flaws and superb quality. I am glad many people know better.


I can't see logic in your post. You either spend $450 for korean low quality crap made out of broken chinese toys or get a real monitor for $600 which will last way longer and in terms of quality it's super superior to koreans.
But oh well, you have same panel as Apple Cinema display or whatever, what a steal h3h3


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> I can't see logic in your post. You either spend $450 for korean low quality crap made out of broken chinese toys or get a real monitor for $600 which will last way longer and in terms of quality it's super superior to koreans.
> But oh well, you have same panel as Apple Cinema display or whatever, what a steal h3h3


You should start by reading a whole post(s), instead of just a selection. I DO NOT pay $600 for a Dell/Apple, i pay about $1000 to $1300 US dollar for those. Keep on bragging about your e-peen Dell "real" monitor. I am very satisfied with my "crap made, broken Chinese toy and with me many others.

I own a Crossover myself, my girlfriend owns a Apple iMac, there is zero difference between the two when looking at picture quality.
All these bad accusations on these Korean monitors are based on nothing but speculations, especially if you don't even own one yourself.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rck1984*
> 
> You should start by reading a whole post(s), instead of just a selection. I DO NOT pay $600 for a Dell/Apple, i pay about $1000 to $1300 US dollar for those. Keep on bragging about your e-peen Dell "real" monitor. I am very satisfied with my "crap made, broken Chinese toy and with me many others.
> I own a Crossover myself, my girlfriend owns a Apple iMac, there is zero difference between the two when looking at picture quality.
> All these bad accusations on these Korean monitors are based on nothing but speculations, especially if you don't even own one yourself.


That's why I said "in my country" smartass.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

There are sellers on eBay that sell the Crossover monitors for $349 + a THREE-YEAR SquareTrade Warranty (in US & Canada) for an additional $49.00. So for $398.99 (over $250 less than a Dell with one-year warranty) you can get the Crossover with a three-year guarantee. If it fails within three years, SquareTrade will repair or replace within five days.

Frankly, while I'm sure the Dell is a better build quality, I'd rather have the 3-year warranty of the Crossover (plus an extra $250).

So, I think I am going with a Crossover and Squaretrade warranty. Anyone seen any better deals?


----------



## Azefore

*Raises hand* My Apple has no yellow fringing that both my Crossovers do and has less IPS glare, by a significant amount. Usability wise, no difference. In the end you get what you pay for.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> There are sellers on eBay that sell the Crossover monitors for $349 + a THREE-YEAR SQUARETRADE WARRANTY (in US & Canada) for an additional $49.00. So for $398.99 (over $250 less than a Dell with one-year warranty) you can get the Crossover with a three-year guarantee. If it fails within three years, SquareTrade will repair or replace within five days.
> So, I think I am going with a Crossover and Squaretrade warranty. Anyone seen any better?


Make sure you go for a perfect pixel one for the SquareTrade cause once they told me. If i go for the normal one the SquareTrade warranty will not work and the next time i called they said it will work. So am not sure how SquareTrade works fully yet. Make sure you call up first and let them know which one your getting and if they say its ok. Make sure you get it in writing from them also


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> *Raises hand* My Apple has no yellow fringing that both my Crossovers do and has less IPS glare, by a significant amount. Usability wise, no difference. In the end you get what you pay for.


Damn even with my dell u2713hm i have the back-light leaks that look yellow same as the one i had for my crossover. Guess i have to wait until the next new revision to come out before i ask for a replacement. But i must say the apple display looks so sexy tho better then any monitor i have seen so far but it cost double the price i paid for my dell u2713hm or else i would have got that lol


----------



## borgqueenx

So much hate lol. Why care so much about quality if it gets tested, works, and when it doesnt you can ship it back on seller's responsibility and cost?(BCC AND AW) within a year?(after some days on your own cost)

Works for me, most people here are satisfied with their monitor. And a forum is a place where you go for problems so thats also a reason its a bit crowded here.

Plus like someone else said, for 20usd you get a new board. Replace it and most likely your issueses are gone.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Speaking for my own country, which is completely terrible and everything here is 50% more than in US I could've purchased cheapest crossover for $450 with all costs and taxes (assuming i cheated and valued the package as $150) I decided to screw that and picked up pretty cheap U2713HM for $615. From what I saw on videos, the korean monitors' stands are beyond pathetic while the Dell has completely awesome and solid as rock stand. Not even talking about the customer service Dell provides and 3 year warranty. While having korean monitor you have to pray for it to even turn on and it's probably going to die within week after warranty expires. Also while RMAing korean monitor those people are making you feel like you are pain in the ass and how dare you to even bother them. Crossover looks very nice but I would rather have known Dell with easy and elegant look which is also awesome. Yes, I've never owned a korean monitor but I've seen tons of videos. If around 3000 sold monitors (all 3 brands) are able to generate around 1500 pages of problems, something must be wrong.
> Think about it if the extra $150 is worth it.
> Tl;dr, koreans are crap, dell or any other brand (even Acer or ASUS) dominates them. If you want a good screen, save money.


You couldn't had said it better brother! This is exactly the points I want to come across to the readers of this forum. DELL monitor is A WORLD different than these pathetic Korean knock-offs, in every way: the panel, the built material, design, construction, warranty, customer service,...and the price difference between a DELL and a Korean knock-off is really not that big even outside the USA.

I am waiting for paypal to rule on my favor to just to have the privileged to return the defective Korean monitors, a process Paypal said would take up to 30 days, I can't order DELL monitors until I get the decision from paypal, otherwise I might end up with 4 monitors instead of 2 that I wanted.

If I had purchased DELL/APPLE/HP/ASUS/Samsung monitors instead, the return would not be a problem at all, they will take the monitor back within 30 days and promptly refund my money. I made the big mistake by purchased these Korean monitors based on the information I read in this thread, and I hope to help those who are unaware of the pitfalls and the hypes of these Korean monitors by sharing my experience with the purchase experience, the problems with the monitors, and the difficulties I have in order to get these problems resolved, so far the seller has not returned my email (almost 2 weeks by now), and the paypal simply hold my money and wait for 30 days deadline to respond (this is paypal's tactic).


----------



## WalkaboutSam

I just spoke with SquareTrade.

For $49.99 I will get a 3-year SquareTrade warranty on the Crossover.

The warranty period begins 46 days after the eBay purchase. (The first 45 days are covered by eBay.)

The SquareTrade warranty covers all mechanical and electrical failures (but no accident damage, negligence, or lost/stolen). No accessories are covered, just the monitor itself. 100% parts and labor coverage - with no deductibles. Item repairs, or the full item price paid back if SquareTrade can't fix it. 5-day turnaround time from the day SquareTrade receives the unit.

I am sure the Dell is a higher quality unit (in terms of overall build quality, connection ports, etc.).

However, I can get the Crossover with a 3-year warranty for $250 less than the Amazon price for the Dell (which is the lowest price I have found).

Overall I think the Crossover probably wins for me, thanks to the 3-year SquareTrade warranty. If there was no warranty available, I'd opt for the Dell.


----------



## borgqueenx

Cheapest dell monitor i could find with 1440p resolution and s-ips panel is 540 euro here incl shipping in the netherlands. The crossover costs 325 euro shipped not including about 20 euro tax wich is to pay when it arrives. 345 euro vs 530 euro. 185 euro difference. Thats quite alot. At dell you dont get perfect warrenty either. You lose your monitor for about 3 weeks. Probaly about same time of the ebay seller throwing away the crossover you shipped back and replacing with a new one.

And what is squaretrade? A us service or something?
I also want more warrenty years:3


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dkb0682*
> 
> The Bookie is the only One who profits from Disagreement and without Disagreement, He will not exist. The basic LG display panel is the foundation for all these 27" IPS monitors and they are all therefore quite similar. Airy toothfairy tales about A+ and A- panels is what The Bookie loves to hear, bookies like "Apple", "Dell", etc and their Amerikana Dream opportunatos.
> These sold in Korea-only monitors do have a laxed build integrity when compared to the bookies' offerings but in the overall scheme of things, you pays your moneys and you get your nett worth. It therefore means that the lower the price you'd paid, the more gambling you'll lapse into. What is the biggest difference is when you take the gamble into another "territory" - or muscling into the territory as the mafia type would say. Here, one should be aware and be alerted to Korean traders and Korean trading methodologies being different to Korean Electronics R&D, the former being [very] 3rd world [due to the lack of brain development/intellect when compared] with the latter being 1st world.
> All this AW worship not only says much about what the kiddie worshippers will grow into [witness Amerikana politics and you'll be staring into these worshipful kiddies' future], but it also allows for another level of fuzzing of The Wider Picture. I have, once upon the early days, comms-ed with AW, then a "Ted Park", and he is as 3rd world as you can get [and he knows who I am from reading this post should "Zer Mods" allow for this posting und not use Zer Exkuse off Zer Reich to gassed it into virtuality]. Introducing his "daughter" who had a stint in The Land of The Free to build AW's online empire is a good move, especially when one knows how to feed worshipful starry-eyed juveniles, be they 9 or 90. This is because when there is the lack of conscience, the over-compensation by the overly-conscienced is a foregone conclusion.
> All humans are dual natured. This means that those who'd Barked in Company will have to pay back with their moment of Howling in Solitude. It also means that after the Spitting of Venom, Blood Coughing will follow and there is no exception to this rule, including those who believed that they are "Chosen". And neither will silencing loud mouths change the reality, Truth being what It is. This also means that the Korean online 27" IPS resellers will "Act Accordingly", case-by-case, to any redress, warranty or otherwise. Witness the final days of "Vietnam" and you'll get a good picture. When "Being Nice" depends on how long, "Being Not So Nice" was on the stage, nothing should be taken for granted other than being easily mesmerised. Afterall, when you had paid for an Apple Pie, say, why would you be grovelling at the chef's honesty? Because he could have given you a Dell Tacos with free ink? There, awake now? Good, time to retrieve one's balanced brain from The Freezer then.
> The relationship between humans should be one of fairness and not of trust. This is because trust within the Dual Natured Universe of The Human is about relinquishing consequences which is the same as the lack of duty to self. To preserving and then elevating self from selfisness onto selflessness. Name one Korean LG 27" IPS monitor reseller who could comment in this vein let alone an Amerikana worshipper of the Wowee and Zowee. Afterall, when you act like a sheep in front of a wolf, that is the AOK sign for the wolf to go wowee and zowee. Especially when the wolf is in sheep's clothing. For Fred's Sake, this is merely buying an LG based 27" IPS monitor and not the chance to vote for your favourite nice guy. And the further away you are from the reach of the seller, the more Fun & Games you'll experience when it comes to getting your just redress. For those brainards who would like to challenge anything that moves because of they are the supermen rooted to Fame, Fortune & Immortality, I have a very bad experience from Red-Cap who acted like he was on top of the 4th world trading methodology and deserved to be recognised as such. There, this should set the cat amongst the pigeons - should The Mods allow, of course.
> Trust is forever, regardless of the merit, whereas fairness is based entirely on merit, which is case-by-case, just like The Judiciary, should the latter ever get to grip with their immorality. As such, those who use trust willy-nilly, especially within the universe governed by misbehaviours, are worthy of being mistrusted, willy-nilly. Afterall, Reality is from moment-to-moment and not every 4/5 years of misrule.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> I just spoke with SquareTrade.
> For $49.99 I will get a 3-year SquareTrade warranty on the Crossover.
> The warranty period begins 46 days after the eBay purchase. (The first 45 days are covered by eBay.)
> The SquareTrade warranty covers all mechanical and electrical failures (but no accident damage, negligence, or lost/stolen). No accessories are covered, just the monitor itself. 100% parts and labor coverage - with no deductibles. Item repairs, or the full item price paid back if SquareTrade can't fix it. 5-day turnaround time from the day SquareTrade receives the unit.
> I am sure the Dell is a higher quality unit (in terms of overall build quality, connection ports, etc.).
> However, I can get the Crossover with a 3-year warranty for $250 less than the Amazon price for the Dell (which is the lowest price I have found).
> Overall I think the Crossover probably wins for me, thanks to the 3-year SquareTrade warranty. If there was no warranty available, I'd opt for the Dell.


Can I buy that coverage if purchased the Crossover outside eBay, from a Korean (Non-US) seller?


----------



## WalkaboutSam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Can I buy that coverage if purchased the Crossover outside eBay, from a Korean (Non-US) seller?


I'm not sure about purchases outside eBay. I would call SquareTrade to find out.

I gave SquareTrade the eBay item number of the specific monitor, and they confirmed that the monitor is covered.

I've looked at far too many of these Korean monitor eBay listings. MOST do not include the SquareTrade warranty option, but some do.

I don't usually buy extra warranty coverage, but in this case it's a no brainer. SquareTrade has a good reputation.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Damn even with my dell u2713hm i have the back-light leaks that look yellow same as the one i had for my crossover. Guess i have to wait until the next new revision to come out before i ask for a replacement. But i must say the apple display looks so sexy tho better then any monitor i have seen so far but it cost double the price i paid for my dell u2713hm or else i would have got that lol


Well all three of mine (Apple and both 27Qs) have light leak, can't deny that HOWEVER, some of the people who advocate the Korean market too much use the one review a user did on here between the Apple and Crossover and stated that the Crossover won because it had less light leakage, fact is it's a specific monitor based issue, you can't expect the Apple to perform as bad as the reviewers did nor have a Crossover perform as well as it did in the review. I'm sure if you got 3 u2713hm and tested them in a pitch black room you'd find a top performer between them. In my case my Apple munches through the Crossovers for light leakage/glare and pales in comparison to my 2007WFP and F2380, had one TN panel ASUS, don't want to revisit those days.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

I bought my monitor from eBay seller *lightnspace*. Almost 8000 transactions with 99.3% positive.

Upon further investigation, it looks like the SquareTrade warranty only applies to products purchased on eBay. Here are more details: http://pages.ebay.com/warranty/squaretrade.html

I don't doubt that the Dell is the better overall product. But I guess for me it's not $250 better, especially when I'll have the 3-year warranty coverage with SquareTrade.


----------



## MoMann

Has anyone tried the squaretrade warranty?


----------



## Vexashon

I emailed BCC to ask for a monitor with a green PCB when I order, and received the following:

"- The main PCB is Blue and rest 3 PCBs are green"

What does that mean? How many PCBs do these monitors have? Is this a new or old version?

Thanks!


----------



## JJ1217

Alriight my monitor is shipped! So excited, hopefully not a massive fail of a monitor. I'm not the richest person in the world.

Kinda confused, seller marked as shipped and gave me tracking number, from DHL. However the website says the number isn't for anything. Should I query him?


----------



## borgqueenx

According to bigclothcraft the 2730MD version of the crossover can be overclocked. But they did not test it, they give that info from manufactor.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The 2720MDP can be overclocked too (mine supports up to 100hz) but it skips frames, just like the Yamakasi multi so I suspect the 2730MDP would be the same.


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> Alriight my monitor is shipped! So excited, hopefully not a massive fail of a monitor. I'm not the richest person in the world.
> Kinda confused, seller marked as shipped and gave me tracking number, from DHL. However the website says the number isn't for anything. Should I query him?


typically takes some time from the point they get the number till the package registers in the system. Happens all the time when ordering items online.


----------



## borgqueenx

Well then i dont want that overclockable version. Skipping frames LOL...rather not have overclocked version then. 60hz is enough anyway. Im used to playing games on a average of 25fps.

Bought the led-p version from BCC.
Said i would get a staff message soon....2 hours ago. I hope i get the questions soon i want to have this monitor shipped tommorow if possible

Im coming from a dell 2408wfp monitor am i in for a treat if its not DOA?


----------



## Xibal

yes you will be.


----------



## borgqueenx

Can someone be kind and tell me the dimensions of the stand bottom for the crossover led-p?


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Can someone be kind and tell me the dimensions of the stand bottom for the crossover led-p?


10.5 IN x 9 IN


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> 10.5 IN x 9 IN


Thanks! I extend my desk at the edge because else it doesnt fit^^ now i know the size to extend


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> You couldn't had said it better brother! This is exactly the points I want to come across to the readers of this forum. DELL monitor is A WORLD different than these pathetic Korean knock-offs, in every way: the panel, the built material, design, construction, warranty, customer service,...and the price difference between a DELL and a Korean knock-off is really not that big even outside the USA.
> I am waiting for paypal to rule on my favor to just to have the privileged to return the defective Korean monitors, a process Paypal said would take up to 30 days, I can't order DELL monitors until I get the decision from paypal, otherwise I might end up with 4 monitors instead of 2 that I wanted.
> If I had purchased DELL/APPLE/HP/ASUS/Samsung monitors instead, the return would not be a problem at all, they will take the monitor back within 30 days and promptly refund my money. I made the big mistake by purchased these Korean monitors based on the information I read in this thread, and I hope to help those who are unaware of the pitfalls and the hypes of these Korean monitors by sharing my experience with the purchase experience, the problems with the monitors, and the difficulties I have in order to get these problems resolved, so far the seller has not returned my email (almost 2 weeks by now), and the paypal simply hold my money and wait for 30 days deadline to respond (this is paypal's tactic).


This is your experience and not the majority.

What I tend to see is someone is interested in the korean monitors yet lack the ability to read and view 300+ pages of thread info. Hence why new comers such as yourself and others are clueless on what may and may not occur and how to avoid it.
Thats why we have set preferred sellers that have reputable and great customer service.
What to ask and what to request for your monitor.
What to buy to enhance and protect your monitor for the long run.

If all is done as your suppose to, the monitors will last a long time just as any monitor.

You tend to forget regardless if it's A+, A, A-, all panels will have there defects. Doesn't matter if your buy from the major leading companies or the korean alternatives. Each one offers a warranty and each one has to agree to the terms of the warranty.
Also you have SquareTrade to extend that warranty and cover cost's for 2+ years in case something does happen.

You my friend are blabbing on about something you did not care to research nor prepare for.
I myself did read through 300+ pages on this thread and even created a review for these monitors. And enabled a discount for EVGA members who buy from accessories whole. I also recommend BCC, but my personally interaction with AW has been entirely pleasant. Replaced non pixel perfect monitor with PP monitors. Even rectified an issue when i said to make sure all monitors had the green pcb, I checked one and it had the blue. Mailed me a new Green pcb right away.

This is why we purchase said Korean monitors for the specific purpose of a cheaper price and having a gorgeous display that is exactly the same in the Apple Thunderbolt. Instead of choosing a 500+ or 900+ monitor that would hinder anyone's pockets.
Again if you failed to research and prepare having this kind of set back is entirely your fault.
Not being harsh, but telling it as it is.
The times of guessing who is a better seller and who would help the most has been solved already.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vexashon*
> 
> I emailed BCC to ask for a monitor with a green PCB when I order, and received the following:
> "- The main PCB is Blue and rest 3 PCBs are green"
> What does that mean? How many PCBs do these monitors have? Is this a new or old version?
> Thanks!


New Revision - 2 PCB (Main and Power/brightness)
2nd Revision - 3 PCBs (Main, Green Led PCB, Power/brightness)
1st Revision - 3 PCB's (Main, Blue Led PCB, Power/brightness)

You want either the New revision which lacks the LED PCB, its an all in one on the Main PCB or the 2nd revision which has the Green LED PCB hence.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Can I buy that coverage if purchased the Crossover outside eBay, from a Korean (Non-US) seller?


Yea you can still get a SquareTrade Warranty, even if the item was purchased outside of ebay. I already confirmed this with squaretrade since I went through paypal and avoided ebay when buying mine.


----------



## Vexashon

Thanks, so what do you make of BCC's response? Seems like they are selling the oldest revision? They said the main is blue and the other "three" are green... That implies four. Really confusing.. I had thought it was more black and white... Just green vs blue, but seems to be more complicated than that. Maybe I should find a different seller. Has anyone confirmed a seller offering the latest revision?

I did ask BCC if this version would have power issues .. He said no but I don't feel confident.

Thanks!!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vexashon*
> 
> Thanks, so what do you make of BCC's response? Seems like they are selling the oldest revision? They said the main is blue and the other "three" are green... That implies four. Really confusing.. I had thought it was more black and white... Just green vs blue, but seems to be more complicated than that. Maybe I should find a different seller. Has anyone confirmed a seller offering the latest revision?
> I did ask BCC if this version would have power issues .. He said no but I don't feel confident.
> Thanks!!


Hes miscounting, so it's just 3 pcb boards. goes like this.
Monitor -> Main PCB -> LED PCB -> Power/brightness PCB
If he counts the monitor pPCB that goes into the main pcb, then yes it's 4 =p

You can't request what monitor you get but you can request to having the Green LED PCB so you don't have any problems down the road.
Main PCB can be any color
LED PCB - request the green pcb with 2+ mosfets

I ordered 3 myself from AW and just so happened 1 was the new revision and the other 2 had the gren pcb as I requested.

As for response time, its gonna take awhile. Were coming into the holiday season, so I dont know what holidays are being celebrated in the home towns. Also gotta remember They respond late at night. I usually get my responses from 10pm-3am. I recently just got my response from AW and that was waiting about a week but I was explained why it took so long to respond so it was cool. Wait it out a bit more. If you honestly don't get as response by the end of the week. Do what you gotta do.


----------



## borgqueenx

Well i also asked bigclothcraft for a newer revision and not the oldest. Hopefully i get a positive reply. Ive set my alarm for 3am to answer their questions form or something so they can maybe ship it desame night, while i can sleep after filling in that form.


----------



## JJ1217

Wow, the postage on these monitors are amazing, in four hours it went from South Korea to Hong Kong, and was already processed in Hong Kong to leave again. DHL must be amazing.


----------



## JJ1217

Also I have a question, if I get a blue LED PCB, how do I check inside the monitor that I got it. Can you see it through the holes in the back of the monitor, or do I have to open it up etc.. Also do I have to do any soldering to replace the pcb if it is blue, because If I get a blue one I'll request a green one immediately.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> Wow, the postage on these monitors are amazing, in four hours it went from South Korea to Hong Kong, and was already processed in Hong Kong to leave again. DHL must be amazing.


Dhl is the best shipping company in the world imo...hong kong to netherlands at my doorstep in 3 days.


----------



## vuman619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> Also I have a question, if I get a blue LED PCB, how do I check inside the monitor that I got it. Can you see it through the holes in the back of the monitor, or do I have to open it up etc.. Also do I have to do any soldering to replace the pcb if it is blue, because If I get a blue one I'll request a green one immediately.


You can see it through the back of the monitor holes, use a flashlight if it's hard to see, the newest version will only have 2 PCB's or 1 in the middle, and also an easier way to check if you have the latest revision, is to look where the DVI and power ports are, there should be what looks like 2 ports for audio, this will indicate that you have the latest PCB.

Also in the case you receive an older revision PCB you can just unplug the ribbon cables and unmount the old PCB and remount the new one and replug in the ribbon cables. No soldering required.


----------



## borgqueenx

Yay bcc just said they will send the newest revision wich only has green pcb's.
Takes another 1-3 days to test though...thought that 1-3 days was started yesterday
Oh well with some luck they ship tommorow^^


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Yay bcc just said they will send the newest revision wich only has green pcb's.
> Takes another 1-3 days to test though...thought that 1-3 days was started yesterday
> Oh well with some luck they ship tommorow^^


What's the advantage of having a green PCB?


----------



## borgqueenx

Green pvb means its a newer revision. Newer revision means no overheating issueses reported.


----------



## Xibal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> New Revision - 2 PCB (Main and Power/brightness)
> 2nd Revision - 3 PCBs (Main, Green Led PCB, Power/brightness)
> 1st Revision - 3 PCB's (Main, Blue Led PCB, Power/brightness)
> You want either the New revision which lacks the LED PCB, its an all in one on the Main PCB or the 2nd revision which has the Green LED PCB hence.


Just to get a rough idea, can you share the serial number of your monitors?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Green pvb means its a newer revision. Newer revision means no overheating issueses reported.


I see... I thought there were new blue PCB's as well.


----------



## JJ1217

Haven't gotten any update for over 12 hours on my tracking, it left Hong Kong 13 hours ago. I think this is a good sign, because I think it means its heading to Australia, which is like 3000 kilometres away. Might get it much sooner than I anticipated









10 Departed Facility in HONG KONG - HONG KONG HONG KONG - HONG KONG 07:07


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> Haven't gotten any update for over 12 hours on my tracking, it left Hong Kong 13 hours ago. I think this is a good sign, because I think it means its heading to Australia, which is like 3000 kilometres away. Might get it much sooner than I anticipated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10 Departed Facility in HONG KONG - HONG KONG HONG KONG - HONG KONG 07:07


Thats dhl. You will get it soon now. Weird why it is coming from hong kong though? I thought these only come from korea.


----------



## Fateye

Bought a Crossover 27Q LED-P from Lightnspace, it does have blue tint, and it seems there's yellow tint on the top and bottom of the monitor (Not too noticeable however.). I have 2 dead pixels on this one as far as I can see, one on the top left and one in the middle right. At least 20 stuck pixels throughout the right side of the panel. I will contact Lightnspace and see how he responds. At this resolution it doesn't bother me too much but it's still quite a lot.

The packaging seemed intact for the most part except that it had been slightly ripped at one of the holes you hold the package with. The problem is that it seems the seller doesn't ship it with any protection, it had some padding on the inside and on the outside it was just the box itself.

EDIT: I also didn't get a voltage converter (It says you would though..) even though I don't need it. The power cable itself was also missing. I only got the adapter and the DVI cable.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateye*
> 
> Bought a Crossover 27Q LED-P from Lightnspace, it does have blue tint, and it seems there's yellow tint on the top and bottom of the monitor (Not too noticeable however.). I have 2 dead pixels on this one as far as I can see, one on the top left and one in the middle right. At least 20 stuck pixels throughout the right side of the panel. I will contact Lightnspace and see how he responds. At this resolution it doesn't bother me too much but it's still quite a lot.
> The packaging seemed intact for the most part except that it had been slightly ripped at one of the holes you hold the package with. The problem is that it seems the seller doesn't ship it with any protection, it had some padding on the inside and on the outside it was just the box itself.
> EDIT: I also didn't get a voltage converter (It says you would though..) even though I don't need it. The power cable itself was also missing. I only got the adapter and the DVI cable.


I would ask for a replacement. My Benq monitor had 3 dead pixels and severe backlight bleeding and I replaced it with a Samsung S23A950D and it's been perfect with no dead pixels.

Stuck pixels aren't a huge deal though. They usually become normal pixels after a few weeks of usage.

However I would still contact the seller and ask him for a replacement.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateye*
> 
> Bought a Crossover 27Q LED-P from Lightnspace, it does have blue tint, and it seems there's yellow tint on the top and bottom of the monitor (Not too noticeable however.). I have 2 dead pixels on this one as far as I can see, one on the top left and one in the middle right. At least 20 stuck pixels throughout the right side of the panel. I will contact Lightnspace and see how he responds. At this resolution it doesn't bother me too much but it's still quite a lot.
> The packaging seemed intact for the most part except that it had been slightly ripped at one of the holes you hold the package with. The problem is that it seems the seller doesn't ship it with any protection, it had some padding on the inside and on the outside it was just the box itself.
> EDIT: I also didn't get a voltage converter (It says you would though..) even though I don't need it. The power cable itself was also missing. I only got the adapter and the DVI cable.


Return because the pixels...the blue tint is normal you can edit it using a color profile.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateye*
> 
> Bought a Crossover 27Q LED-P from Lightnspace, it does have blue tint, and it seems there's yellow tint on the top and bottom of the monitor (Not too noticeable however.). I have 2 dead pixels on this one as far as I can see, one on the top left and one in the middle right. At least 20 stuck pixels throughout the right side of the panel. I will contact Lightnspace and see how he responds. At this resolution it doesn't bother me too much but it's still quite a lot.
> The packaging seemed intact for the most part except that it had been slightly ripped at one of the holes you hold the package with. The problem is that it seems the seller doesn't ship it with any protection, it had some padding on the inside and on the outside it was just the box itself.
> EDIT: I also didn't get a voltage converter (It says you would though..) even though I don't need it. The power cable itself was also missing. I only got the adapter and the DVI cable.


Try touching the stuck pixels with finger, it's unexplainable magic but sometimes it works.


----------



## Fateye

I tried using the fingers and it didn't really help. Running a pixel repair program now.

It looks like this on the bottom right:


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateye*
> 
> I tried using the fingers and it didn't really help. Running a pixel repair program now.
> It looks like this on the bottom right:


I bought two 27Q LED-P from this same seller, and one monitor has the same problem like yours: stuck green pixels along the right edge (and more concentrated at lower right corner like yours, but also concertraded around right upper corner), and backlight bleeding on all 4 edges and all 4 corners. The seller (LIGHTSPACE/ASTROBILE) simply ignored me emails and did not respond to paypal claim, so paypal now wants me to pay the shipping for returning the monitor to Korea, it would cost me $125 to ship one monitor using USPS, and $400 to $700 if using UPS/FEDEX/DHL.

Never, never, buy from this seller: LIGHTnSPACE who also uses another name ASTROBILE


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I would ask for a replacement. My Benq monitor had 3 dead pixels and severe backlight bleeding and I replaced it with a Samsung S23A950D and it's been perfect with no dead pixels.
> Stuck pixels aren't a huge deal though. They usually become normal pixels after a few weeks of usage.
> However I would still contact the seller and ask him for a replacement.


I have almost the identical problem (more than 20 stuck green pixels on the right edge, see my posts from 11/30/2012 and forward) from this seller. He may had just selling the defected monitors as normal monitors on eBay.

When I emailed him the pictures of the defective pixels and asked for a replacement, the seller simply ignored my emails and all my paypal complaints. The seller knows it costs a lot to send the monitor back to him, he is betting on that we might just keep the monitor, but I won't, I am putting more pressure with paypal now to ask paypal to require the seller to absorb the shipping cost since the seller never complied with paypal rules that require him to communicate with buyers to resolve the problems.

I urge the buyer to do the same: ask eBay/paypal to require this seller to pay the return shipping cost, this will be two complaints in a roll for the same seller with the same product that has the exact same defects, the seller is dishonest and arrogant, unbelievable!


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> I have almost the identical problem (more than 20 stuck green pixels on the right edge, see my posts from 11/30/2012 and forward) from this seller. He may had just selling the defected monitors as normal monitors on eBay.
> When I emailed him the pictures of the defective pixels and asked for a replacement, the seller simply ignored my emails and all my paypal complaints. The seller knows it costs a lot to send the monitor back to him, he is betting on that we might just keep the monitor, but I won't, I am putting more pressure with paypal now to ask paypal to require the seller to absorb the shipping cost since the seller never complied with paypal rules that require him to communicate with buyers to resolve the problems.
> I urge the buyer to do the same: ask eBay/paypal to require this seller to pay the return shipping cost, this will be two complaints in a roll for the same seller with the same product that has the exact same defects, the seller is dishonest and arrogant, unbelievable!


i like how you act. those stopid sellers who leave their customers to rot after they got their product should get a huge bootkick.
let us know how your story develops








dont bet on it that the seller can pay returning shipping costs though.

But buy this product again but then from BCC or AW. everyone's happy with those guys.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> i like how you act. those stopid sellers who leave their customers to rot after they got their product should get a huge bootkick.
> let us know how your story develops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dont bet on it that the seller can pay returning shipping costs though.
> But buy this product again but then from BCC or AW. everyone's happy with those guys.


The seller, lightnspace / astrobile, is really not smart in this business: by cheating 2 buyers in a roll, and got exposed in a forum where many potential buyer consult before making buying decisions, he has lost a lot of potential business!

I had reasoned with him, letting him know that I will post my buying experience here, he can either use that as an opportunity to show the potential buyers that he is trustworthy and he treats care of his customers right, or he can screw his customers and I will post what he did to us here, and he would surely be hurting his business with his own actions, but he chooses to screw his customers. I hope from now on he won't be able to screw anyone who reads this forum.

This seller thinks as long as I can't leave negative feedback on eBay, his scam won't be exposed, but he is wrong, and he must now deal with the consequences.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> The seller, lightnspace / astrobile, is really not smart in this business: by cheating 2 buyers in a roll, and got exposed in a forum where many potential buyer consult before making buying decisions, he has lost a lot of potential business!
> I had reasoned with him, letting him know that I will post my buying experience here, he can either use that as an opportunity to show the potential buyers that he is trustworthy and he treats care of his customers right, or he can screw his customers and I will post what he did to us here, and he would surely be hurting his business with his own actions, but he chooses to screw his customers. I hope from now on he won't be able to screw anyone who reads this forum.
> This seller thinks as long as I can't leave negative feedback on eBay, his scam won't be exposed, but he is wrong, and he must now deal with the consequences.


/care for the guy.
1. This topic is long, very long.
2. There are alot internet sites, alot.

This means only a very small portion of his future buyers wont do business with him. Probaly less then 1/100.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> /care for the guy.
> 1. This topic is long, very long.
> 2. There are alot internet sites, alot.
> This means only a very small portion of his future buyers wont do business with him. Probaly less then 1/100.


Best case I would say 2 buyers get turned away lol.


----------



## trada101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Speaking for my own country, which is completely terrible and everything here is 50% more than in US I could've purchased cheapest crossover for $450 with all costs and taxes (assuming i cheated and valued the package as $150) I decided to screw that and picked up pretty cheap U2713HM for $615. From what I saw on videos, the korean monitors' stands are beyond pathetic while the Dell has completely awesome and solid as rock stand. Not even talking about the customer service Dell provides and 3 year warranty. While having korean monitor you have to pray for it to even turn on and it's probably going to die within week after warranty expires. Also while RMAing korean monitor those people are making you feel like you are pain in the ass and how dare you to even bother them. Crossover looks very nice but I would rather have known Dell with easy and elegant look which is also awesome. Yes, I've never owned a korean monitor but I've seen tons of videos. If around 3000 sold monitors (all 3 brands) are able to generate around 1500 pages of problems, something must be wrong.
> Think about it if the extra $150 is worth it.
> Tl;dr, koreans are crap, dell or any other brand (even Acer or ASUS) dominates them. If you want a good screen, save money.


Uh, how is $615, 50% more than in the US???

In Singapore, I bought my Crossover for $350sgd vs the Dell u2713hm at $800. If the dell was $600 then I would have gone for that but I personally think it is one of the ugliest boring cheap plastic monitors out there, but it is cheap.

I personally love the steel frame of the Crossover, looks like it belongs in a tank and goes well with the aluminum casing of the Mac products.

Yeah, theres more risk buying these Korean monitors but more reward too. After reading these threads I don't know why people buy from anyone but AW, they're the only one that seems to engage the community.


----------



## Azefore

Common logic dictates that those with problems post here as it's the biggest forum (I've seen anyways) on these monitors (Crossover club, shimian, catleap, etc) Thus if any buyers do have problems they'll be shown here if they bother to ask and not just keep it between themselves and the seller. You can't use any amount of thread pages as a track record of product reliability and performance. The poll was a pretty good indicator, some had problems with their monitor, not a super majority as your implying.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Best case I would say 2 buyers get turned away lol.


Respectfully disagree! Potential buyers who read these posts would be fools if they buy from spacenlight / astrobile after knowing what the sellers had done to at least two members of this forum.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Respectfully disagree! Potential buyers who read these posts would be fools if they buy from spacenlight / astrobile after knowing what the sellers had done to at least two members of this forum.


Sure, but if you take the number of members who even end up seeing your posts... then the number of those that end up actually buying a korean monitor... and then the number of those that would have bought from the specific seller you had issues with... it gets pretty small.


----------



## telmedragon

So unfortunately I already bought my monitor after all this lightnspace talk. I was fortunate enough to not have dead/stuck pixels anywhere. I do have yellowing though, but it's only in the very corners so it does not bother me much.





Box was in pretty good condition, it had a fragile sticker on it if it makes a difference. Didn't look like it had taken a beating.


So I'm not sure how to explain this but, it looks like one monitor is very warm and the other is very cool. How do I fix this? I bought these monitors at a separate time and from different sellers. I applied the Apple Cinema Thunderbolt ICC profile to both of them but it doesn't look like it changed much.





Yellowing on the two corners


----------



## borgqueenx

Try the other profile and see if that fixes it-or make your own.


----------



## kimba934

Count me in as 3rd buyer turned away from astrobile. I almost decided to buy from astrobile since he has the lowest prices. But after reading posts from user33, I bought a monitor from another seller. Hopefully, mine will not arrive DOA.

User33, I hope you will resolve the issue soon. Thank you for your feedback.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

My Crossover 27Q just arrived! I will now give you my opinions of the experience so far.

I placed my order on the afternoon of Sunday Dec 09.

I live in the US state of Alabama.

I bought the monitor from lightnspace / astrobile on eBay. (At the time, I had no idea that this seller was disliked by some posters here. The seller has around 8000 tranactions, 99.3% positive).

Sunday evening I received confirmation of the order - and SHIPPING! My package was shipped by Fed Ex with tracking number.

On Monday my package made it to Anchorage, Alaska.

On Tuesday afternoon (Dec 11) I RECEIVED MY MONITOR! It only took 48 hours to get the package from Seoul, Korea to Alabama! I am stunned by the speed of shipping. Incredible.

Unfortunately my monitor's cardboard box had a couple of puncture tears in it - one along the edge where the built-in 'handles' are found. Another puncture was squarely in the side of the box. It was a little worrisome.

The monitor was pretty well packaged, though. The interior was surrounded by bubble wrap and the entire assembly was encased in foam. Upon examination, all seems okay.

The monitor included a DVD-D cord and a Korean/US adapter plug (which I do not need).

I am impressed with the build of the Crossover - it's mostly made of solid metal! Much nicer than the usual plastic.

I plugged in the monitor to my PC running Windows 7 with GTX560 card. Windows immediately recognized the monitor and displayed the image in full 2560x1440 resolution.

Wow! The image is FANTASTIC. I will edit video on this monitor, and the extra resolution real estate is most welcome. Colors are bright and vibrant.

At first I didn't notice any dead /stuck pixels. Then I switched Windows into high contrast mode. With the desktop set to a solid black screen, I did find some dead pixels. There are probably a dozen scattered along the right border of the screen.

Am I bothered by the dead pixels? Not really. First of all, the pixel density of the screen is so great that you really have to make an effort to see them. I suspect the average user would never even notice. I only really found them in high contrast mode.

Second of all, I got this monitor for $300 less than the closest comparable Dell. (I've added a $50 SquareTrade warranty that covers mechanical failure for 3 years.) Frankly, I expected a few dead pixels. So long as they represent the worst problem, it's really not a problem. It's kind of like buying a new Porsche for half price and then complaining about a little scratch on the wheels.

Overall I am VERY pleased with what I've seen so far. If the monitor continues to function properly, I'm thrilled with the transaction. (If it fails...there's always SquareTrade.)


----------



## telmedragon

I have, but it just seems like one is a lot warmer regardless of me switching the profile. I should probably say I'm running GTX 670 FTW+ in SLI if that changes anything.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Sure, but if you take the number of members who even end up seeing your posts... then the number of those that end up actually buying a korean monitor... and then the number of those that would have bought from the specific seller you had issues with... it gets pretty small.


Well, that might actually be the case, but if my posts would prevent one potential buyers from being victimized by lightnspace and astrobile, it would be one innocent person I helped. If I had read anything about lightnspace and astrobile that is so profoundly negative, I would had been spared from this ordeal, hence I want to continue do my share to help.

I will pop back here from time to time to post reminders about lightnspace and astrobile, so as to increase the odds that my messages would be come across to potential buyers, to help preventing them from being victimized by lightnspace and astrobile.

It's like what we say in our country: it doesn't pay to commit the crime! What lightnspace and astrobile had done to me and other member recently is, in my book, an act of crime! I will do my part to make it harder for these criminals to prey on their next victims. I am not concerned about how effective my actions would be, but I will not stop taking actions, that is my promise.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telmedragon*
> 
> I was fortunate enough to not have dead/stuck pixels anywhere. I do have yellowing though, but it's only in the very corners so it does not bother me much.
> 
> 
> Yellowing on the two corners


Clearly these are DEFECTS! whether or not they bother you, these are indeed DEFECTS! Why would/should you accept anything less than what you are entitled to, which is DEFECT-FREE monitor according to the conditions specified on the seller's sales page?


----------



## borgqueenx

All the monitors from lightnspace are crappier it seems. Dead pixels or other problems. From bcc and AW people have reported getting no issueses at all.
As the manufactor checks these monitors for defects, i think we miss something why lighnspace delivers products with more defects.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> With the desktop set to a solid black screen, I did find some dead pixels. There are probably a dozen scattered along the right border of the screen.


You are the 3rd person in past three weeks that received the monitors from astrobile that has from one dosen to more than three dozens of stuck pixels along the right edge of the screen! This confirms my suspection that astroblie is selling defected monitors to overseas buyers and taking advantage the fact that because of the high cost of return shipping, and that these stuck pixels are not very noticeable in normal screen setting, most people would likely not bother to return these defected monitors.
Quote:


> Am I bothered by the dead pixels? Not really. First of all, the pixel density of the screen is so great that you really have to make an effort to see them. I suspect the average user would never even notice. I only really found them in high contrast mode.
> Second of all, I got this monitor for $300 less than the closest comparable Dell. (I've added a $50 SquareTrade warranty that covers mechanical failure for 3 years.) Frankly, I expected a few dead pixels. So long as they represent the worst problem, it's really not a problem. It's kind of like buying a new Porsche for half price and then complaining about a little scratch on the wheels.


This is exactly what I was afraid to see happening with the average buyers. This kind of behavior is what these crooks are expecting, they had just sold you a defected product and you had just talk yourself out of feeling being taken advantage of, due to the reasons I stated above, plus the "false pride" of human beings: no one likes to admit making a bad decision, or likes to feel being cheated. It's very understandable and expected, and the crooks know that very well! they had won again.

As long as people are allowing these crooks to victimize them, the crooks will continue their criminal act.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> All the monitors from lightnspace are crappier it seems. Dead pixels or other problems. From bcc and AW people have reported getting no issueses at all.
> As the manufactor checks these monitors for defects, i think we miss something why lighnspace delivers products with more defects.


lightnspace may be buying the monitors that didn't pass the inspection from AW







then sell them on ebay at a much cheaper price, just look at lightnspace and astrobile's price compares to all other sellers.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> You are the 3rd person in past three weeks that received the monitors from astrobile that has from one dosen to more than three dozens of stuck pixels along the right edge of the screen! This confirms my suspection that astroblie is selling defected monitors to overseas buyers and taking advantage the fact that because of the high cost of return shipping, and that these stuck pixels are not very noticeable in normal screen setting, most people would likely not bother to return these defected monitors.
> This is exactly what I was afraid to see happening with the average buyers. This kind of behavior is what these crooks are expecting, they had just sold you a defected product and you had just talk yourself out of feeling being taken advantage of, due to the reasons I stated above, plus the "false pride" of human beings: no one likes to admit making a bad decision, or likes to feel being cheated. It's very understandable and expected, and the crooks know that very well! they had won again.
> As long as people are allowing these crooks to victimize them, the crooks will continue their criminal act.


youre right its too suspicious now. Mail paypal or ebay and send them a message to take a look to the newest pages in this topic.
Their policy is 3 pixels dead or stuck max. They indeed sell monitors of the ****tiest batch.

This is qualified under scam. Im glad i ordered from one of the two reputable sellers.
I would be mad in your position and im glad youre making their life hard.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> youre right its too suspicious now. Mail paypal or ebay and send them a message to take a look to the newest pages in this topic.
> Their policy is 3 pixels dead or stuck max. They indeed sell monitors of the ****tiest batch.
> This is qualified under scam. Im glad i ordered from one of the two reputable sellers.
> I would be mad in your position and im glad youre making their life hard.


I did call paypal to report what I have discovered here, but paypal told me they would not do anything, unless there are unusually large number of compliant filed against a particular seller, payapl would not investigate.

I asked didn't paypal ask users to report suspicious activities, scams, etc., but she simply repeated what she had told me, that paypal would only investigate if there are unusually large number of compliant filed against a particular seller.

The seller appears to know what he is doing, but I will not stop taking action until he is stopped or he stops his criminal act.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

With all due respect, it's not a question of 'pride' - if I had wanted a "perfect pixel" Crossover monitor I could've paid an extra $50 or so for that guarantee. Or if I had wanted a perfect pixel monitor with a 3-year manufacturer's warranty and multiple connection ports, I would've bought the Dell. Instead, I chose to purchase the least expensive Crossover on eBay. The display is working fine and it's beautiful. I am getting 99% of the Dell experience at only 50% of the cost. This works for me.

Yes, if I switch my screen to high contrast black, move my face to within 12 inches of the screen, and stare at it for a while, I can find a few dead pixels. This is simply not a problem to me. I have enough real problems in my life; I'm not going to lose sleep over a few dead pixels on a monitor with 3,686,400 pixels - lol I have more than 3.68 million pixels that are working just fine.

Now, if I had paid for a perfect pixel monitor and did not receive it, or if heaven forbid the monitor had arrived DOA, I would be very upset. Thankfully, neither happened. Maybe I got lucky.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> I'm not going to lose sleep over a few dead pixels on a monitor with 3,686,400 pixels - lol I have more than 3.68 million pixels that are working just fine.
> Now, if I had paid for a perfect pixel monitor and did not receive it, or if heaven forbid the monitor had arrived DOA, I would be very upset. Thankfully, neither happened. Maybe I got lucky.


You had paid for a monitor that is to have not more than 4 defect pixels according to the ebay "contract", and you have gotten a dozen of so of defect pixels, even though they don't bother you, you are in fact getting a lemon, why not just admit it? A defected monitor is a defected monitor, whether or not it bothers you.

Selling a monitor with more than a dozen defective pixels when advertised to have not more than 4 defective pixels, is a scam, and a scam is a criminal act.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> You had paid for a monitor that is to have not more than 4 defect pixels according to the ebay "contract", and you have gotten a dozen of so of defect pixels, even though they don't bother you, you are in fact getting a lemon, why not just admit it? A defected monitor is a defected monitor, whether or not it bothers you.
> Selling a monitor with more than a dozen defective pixels when advertised to have not more than 4 defective pixels, is a scam, and a scam is a criminal act.


While this is true you dont need to push your human pride story.
I have lived 3 years with a laptop screen that has the worst colors ever. Then i temporary had a 2408wfp wich is fair but going to this will be a huge leap. The pixel density is so big that i also probaly wont care for a >few< more dead or stuck pixels. But i have my limits. Its a good upgrade and we all know we get what we pay for- thats why i paid at bcc.
If he likes a monitor that has a >for him< tiny flaw, then its okay.

Just....dont excaggerate.


----------



## vuman619

Buy AccessoriesWhole and BigClothCraft or like me and buy from Dream-Seller and avoid all this crap and get good customer service, I avoided LightnSpace and Astrobile before I even looked at this forum. The choice is yours, don't expect to pay the least amount of money to get the top quality, we're talking about the best of the cheapest here. I took a gamble and every fortunate and happy that I received a perfect monitor, if I had received a defected one, I could only gamble the fact that I would receive good customer service and get my issue resolved, which is why I did my research for months before I ended buying one. I was reading about the overheating PCB's and other defects such as performance issues, once I knew these issues were resolved, I bought one and now I have a nice new Green PCB with no defects.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

I just went back and looked at the eBay listing. user33 is correct - the listing claims that more than 4 dead pixels is "faulty." However, lightnspace never claims they don't sell 'faulty' monitors.









Honestly, I am not upset about my monitor, even though I can find a few dead pixels in high contrast mode. I'm quite pleased with it! It's a stunning improvement over my previous 1920x1080 display. Considering the alternatives from Dell & Apple, it's a fantastic bargain. (If you look around, you'll find owners of $1000 Apple monitors also complaining about dead pixels.) I wouldn't mind getting a second one of these monitors.

I just showed the display to my wife; of course she could not see any dead pixels. My guess is that 99% of the people who would view the monitor would never see the dead pixels. Heck, I can barely find them under normal circumstances, and I know they are there.

I feel that when you order one of these Korean monitors, you are taking a bit of a calculated gamble. We all know they are made from LG panels that don't make the Dell/Apple grade. My main worry has been that one day the monitor will decide not to power on at all. I am more worried about a dead screen than a dead pixel. That's why I bought the $50 SquareTrade warranty. I'll have 3 years peace of mind.

Note that I have no loyalty to lightnspace. I am just a satisfied customer (who never had reason to deal with the seller beyond the initial purchase). If there are better sellers on eBay, with better reputations, then I recommend buying from those sellers.


----------



## JayBirdz

Got my 27Q LED-P delivered at the weekend. Ordered from ta_planet on eBay.

Connected it to my 17" MacBook Pro no problem.

Got 1 stuck green pixel that I can only notice when the screen is black, which, when im coding is pretty much never.

Easily just as good as my 27" iMac screen.

Just wish I could connect 2 of these bad boys to my MacBook, because I would order another in a heart beat.

(The £70 mini display port to dual dvi adapter was the only kick in the teeth!)


----------



## JJ1217

Just got my Crossover! Shipped from Korea Monday night, and arrived Wednesday morning! Not even two days! Amazing postage.

And to top it off, flawless panel, no dead pixels or stuck pixels of what I can see, and no backlight bleed either. Came calibrated out of the box too.

BCC is amazing. Hopefully my monitor doesn't break in a week.

Edit: Also got the version with green PCB's from what I can see through the back.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> Just got my Crossover! Shipped from Korea Monday night, and arrived Wednesday morning! Not even two days! Amazing postage.
> And to top it off, flawless panel, no dead pixels or stuck pixels of what I can see, and no backlight bleed either. Came calibrated out of the box too.
> BCC is amazing. Hopefully my monitor doesn't break in a week.
> Edit: Also got the version with green PCB's from what I can see through the back.


Thats good i hope i get desame


----------



## borgqueenx

Im still not sure and answered what happens when you use another resolution on this display. Can it be set to another resolution like 1080p in windows or in a game? I heard the gpu scales the screen without problem but can someone confirm this both works in windows and games?
Is there a downside to gpu scaling?

Thanks.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Im still not sure and answered what happens when you use another resolution on this display. Can it be set to another resolution like 1080p in windows or in a game? I heard the gpu scales the screen without problem but can someone confirm this both works in windows and games?
> Is there a downside to gpu scaling?
> Thanks.


Piggy backing on this guy's question: Does the picture quality suffer when you scale the screen down to say 1080p?


----------



## Dariu5

How is red-cap? has anyone ordered a pixel perfect monitor from him? he has a good price and he also states that he checks for serious BLB, which is nice.


----------



## Erdrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> With all due respect, it's not a question of 'pride' - if I had wanted a "perfect pixel" Crossover monitor I could've paid an extra $50 or so for that guarantee. Or if I had wanted a perfect pixel monitor with a 3-year manufacturer's warranty and multiple connection ports, I would've bought the Dell. Instead, I chose to purchase the least expensive Crossover on eBay. The display is working fine and it's beautiful. I am getting 99% of the Dell experience at only 50% of the cost. This works for me.
> Yes, if I switch my screen to high contrast black, move my face to within 12 inches of the screen, and stare at it for a while, I can find a few dead pixels. This is simply not a problem to me. I have enough real problems in my life; I'm not going to lose sleep over a few dead pixels on a monitor with 3,686,400 pixels - lol I have more than 3.68 million pixels that are working just fine.
> Now, if I had paid for a perfect pixel monitor and did not receive it, or if heaven forbid the monitor had arrived DOA, I would be very upset. Thankfully, neither happened. Maybe I got lucky.


Same with me man, I bought from him to. And like I posted here before, I got stock pixels at top right corner. Honestly it doesn't bother me at all considering I know where it is. In the end you get what you pay for. And I am in love with this monitor regardless.


----------



## coolxal

Someone needs to tell the OP or a mod to edit the first post and advise all potential buyers to steer clear from lightnspace.

It needs to be in big red font too.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Someone needs to tell the OP or a mod to edit the first post and advise all potential buyers to steer clear from lightnspace.
> It needs to be in big red font too.


Agreed, i dont know the mods but please do. Its important since there are only problems with this seller.


----------



## F0zzie

To all of you guys that ordered from lightnspace or astrobile on eBay. Why don't you give him negative feedback and in the comment write the reason (don't forget to add the product name in case its a private listing), to warn other potential buyers ?

AFAIK if paypal won't refund you, you can always do a chargeback through your credit card company. according to paypal support it will not effect your paypal account.


----------



## Descadent

with all the recommendations of who to buy from I can't believe people would buy from anyone other than Accessorieswhole, BCC, and maybe greensum.

These new guys like lightnspace and astrobile pop up and look what you got.... :-/


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> with all the recommendations of who to buy from I can't believe people would buy from anyone other than Accessorieswhole, BCC, and maybe greensum.
> These new guys like lightnspace and astrobile pop up and look what you got.... :-/


lightnspace and astrobile is the same seller, the paypal invoice I received from astrobile has the name lightnspace as the company, and if you look at their ebay auction pages for monitors, there are identical, except for the name of the seller which is either lightnspace or astrobile.

Stay away from this seller, he only sells Crossover with massive stuck pixels on the right edge of the screen, while advertise these monitors to have only maximum of 4 defective pixels., He will not pay the return shipping for the defective monitors, he will take your money, send out the defective monitor, and will not respond to you email if you buy from him outside the ebay (since you can't leave negative feedback).

In the last 3 weeks, 3 members had reported to had received defective crossover 27Q from this seller that have from one-dozen to more than three-dozens of defective pixels on the right edge of the screen, and at least two members reported heavy backlight bleeds, one member also reported yellow horizontal stripes patterns on top and bottom of the screen. please read the posts with photos of these defectives posted by the members in the previous pages.

This seller is selling only the defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members.


----------



## user33

Here is another report of getting a defective monitor from lightnspace:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kn0x-*
> 
> Just received my "Pixel Perfect" Crossover 27Q from Lightnspace yesterday.
> Hooked it up to my late 2012 Mac Mini, via an Apple Mini Display Port -> Dual Link DVI
> At first I had a snowy display, but that went away after turning the monitor on and off, and haven't seen it since.
> Overall picture is really good, no dead or stuck pixels - but the monitor I have received is far from perfect, it has a major flaw that I would trade for a stuck pixel any day.
> It produces burn-ins very easily; the pictures I have posted below is taken after leaving a browser window open for ~ 2 minutes, and shortly after I opened a text editor with a dark background where the browser window was located.
> Anyone else had/seen this ?


----------



## Johnny Utah

Ordered a 2720MDP from green-sum on Sunday night. Had a message waiting for me this morning that he doesn't have any 2720MDP's to ship out due to "supply issues from the manufacturer".

He offered me some other monitor versions or a refund. I need the 2720MDP so I'll be looking to another seller. What a hassle. I should be getting a monitor today or tomorrow but no it looks like next week at the earliest if I order somewhere else.

The weird thing is ebay shows the monitor has shipped and shows a DHL tracking number (but no info with the number). Part of me hopes green-sum just sent me the wrong canned email.


----------



## Cloudz00x

For all the new guys purchasing and complaining about blue/yellow tint. Apply my profile.
Located at the bottom of my CrossOver review. The 1st page is the review and contains 'EVERYTHING" you need to know. From OC'ing, PCBS, Reivisions, profiles, premium cables to buy and more.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors

I've posted it a couple pages back, but it seems it got dog-piled lol.
Read, read... for the love of god.. just read and perhaps you guys wouldn't have all these issues or questions =p


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> For all the new guys purchasing and complaining about blue/yellow tint. Apply my profile.
> Located at the bottom of my CrossOver review. The 1st page is the review and contains 'EVERYTHING" you need to know. From OC'ing, PCBS, Reivisions, profiles, premium cables to buy and more.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors
> I've posted it a couple pages back, but it seems it got dog-piled lol.
> Read, read... for the love of god.. just read and perhaps you guys wouldn't have all these issues or questions =p


i've been running that profile for about week or 2 now and I have to set it every time I reboot. windows won't keep it applied.


----------



## borgqueenx

By the way all crossover owners, will everyone like the colors of these screens or can it also be a personal opinion what display he likes more?
(Coming from dell 2408wfp)


----------



## snafflehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> This seller is selling only the defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members.


I received two Crossover 27q from lightnspace a couple of months ago which arrived with no pixel faults. Both have a light yellow hue towards the bottom (one is barely noticeable the other is a bit worse) but I am hoping to negate that by trying out clouds colour profiles.

While it may be true that his current batch of monitors are pants, it may be due to the fact that these panels are becoming rare, as has been stated by multiple sellers. Buying now is more of a risk that it was a few months ago. To state that "This seller is selling only the defective monitors" says to me that you are a trolling moron who needs to zip up and stop whinging about buying a monitor outside of eBay, from a non-recommended seller and being one of the unlucky few who have received a duff. I feel for you that you are having issues getting it replaced, I really do - that could have easily been me as I bought form the same seller. We both took the risk, we both understood beforehand it was a risk - but you still chose to trade outside of the protection of eBay, you got burned and now you won't shut up about it like a spoiled brat.

Wait for your PayPal dispute to go through, let us know what happens when it does, and until then if anyone posts asking if they should buy from lightnspace, politely suggest that he is not a recommended seller and you should user AW or BCC.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snafflehog*
> 
> I received two pixel perfect Crossover 27q from lightnspace a couple of months ago. Both have a light yellow hue towards the bottom (one is barely noticeable the other is a bit worse) but I am hoping to negate that by trying out clouds colour profiles.
> While it may be true that his current batch of monitors are pants, it may be due to the fact that these panels are becoming rare, as has been stated by multiple sellers. Buying now is more of a risk that it was a few months ago. To state that "This seller is selling only the defective monitors" says to me that you are a trolling moron who needs to zip up and stop whinging about buying a monitor outside of eBay, from a non-recommended seller and being one of the unlucky few who have received a duff. I feel for you that you are having issues getting it replaced, I really do - that could have easily been me as I bought form the same seller. We both took the risk, we both understood beforehand it was a risk - but you still chose to trade outside of the protection of eBay, you got burned and now you won't shut up about it like a spoiled brat.
> Wait for your PayPal dispute to go through, let us know what happens when it does, and until then if anyone posts asking if they should buy from lightnspace, politely suggest that he is not a recommended seller and you should user AW or BCC.


Whoa.. What user33 is telling is right "This seller is selling only the defective monitors, as it appears *according to the recent posts* from from our members."
We was all interested in buying one of this monitor because they are almost near the perfection, and the problem of 1-to-5 stuck pixels was not an issue.
This seller is shipping out a really high number of defective monitors, violating the description in the auction. Also your monitor has some really serious problems, that should not have according to the eBay item description. That, of course, is not correct, and I appreciate the effort of trying to let everybody know that Astrobile-Lighnspace is NOT a good seller.

Personally, I've bought a 27Q a few weeks ago from GreenSum (outside eBay), and like the 90% of the buyers, I haven't had any big issue. Infact the monitor is near perfect.

If these monitor are having such success is because they are quite better than those that Astrobile is selling


----------



## snafflehog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> Whoa.. What user33 is telling is right "This seller is selling only the defective monitors, as it appears *according to the recent posts* from from our members."


"This seller is selling *only* the defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members."

"This seller *seems to be now selling a high proportion of* defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members."

I have only taken issue with what is being said due to the incessant and arrogant nature of the previous posts.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snafflehog*
> 
> "This seller is selling *only* the defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members."
> "This seller *seems to be now selling a high proportion of* defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members."
> I have only taken issue with what is being said due to the incessant and arrogant nature of the previous posts.


I get your point, but I disagree.
Every witness in this topic, about Astrobile's monitors, is concerning serious issues. So actually, always _according to the recent posts from from our members_, "*only*" is appropriate.

Hope the ones are having trouble, could find a solution, and (as was preaviously said) I suggest to put a disclaimer in the OP about this business.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snafflehog*
> 
> To state that "This seller is selling only the defective monitors" says to me that you are a trolling moron who needs to zip up and stop whinging about buying a monitor outside of eBay


name calling is one one typical behavior of a "trolling moron" like you have just demonstrated, get a life!


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snafflehog*
> 
> "This seller is selling *only* the defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members."
> "This seller *seems to be now selling a high proportion of* defective monitors, as it appears according to the recent posts from from our members."
> I have only taken issue with what is being said due to the incessant and arrogant nature of the previous posts.


FYI:

*Member snafflehog has been added to your Block list. You may need to refresh the page to hide their posts.*


----------



## WalkaboutSam

I bought my Crossover 27Q from lightnspace/astrobile.

Shipping speed was the most impressive I've ever experienced. I bought the monitor on Sunday - it arrived at my home less than 48 hours later!

My monitor is not "defective" by my understanding of that term. It's a beautiful display! No yellow tint or light leakage. Colors and of course resolution are fantastic.

My monitor does have more than 5 stuck/dead pixels. I have probably about 20 scattered around the right border of the screen. They are _impossible_ to see in normal use. I can only find them when I switch to an all-black screen in 'high contrast' mode, and make a special effort. Presumably some of the the stuck pixels may correct themselves over time. It's simply not a problem.

Overall I am a satisfied customer. I got a Crossover 27 for the lowest price on Ebay. My display looks fantastic.

Where I fault lightnspace/astrobile is in its eBay listings.The listings state that, by their policy, more than 5 dead/stuck pixels makes a monitor "faulty." Of course, they never claim that they don't sell 'faulty' monitors, but this is implied. The listings create an expectation in some buyers of receiving nearly 'perfect pixel' panels. I never had this expectation, since these were the least expensive Crossover monitors on eBay. I expected that the lower price would bring a few extra stuck pixels.

With regard to these these eBay listings, it's obvious that English is not the native language of their authors. While I do believe the listings should be edited for clarity, I don't think there's some master plan by lightnspace/astrobile to sneak a few extra stuck pixels onto our screens.


----------



## Descadent

cmon guys take your flaming out of here, get back on topic.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> i've been running that profile for about week or 2 now and I have to set it every time I reboot. windows won't keep it applied.


http://www.laszlopusztai.net/2009/08/23/stop-losing-display-calibration-with-windows-7/[/quote]

Follow the steps. It's not enough to just set as default.
You have to go through options to enable the grayed out box then check it.
See below:


----------



## Cloudz00x

-deleted-


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> I bought my Crossover 27Q from lightnspace/astrobile.
> Shipping speed was the most impressive I've ever experienced. I bought the monitor on Sunday - it arrived at my home less than 48 hours later!
> My monitor is not "defective" by my understanding of that term. It's a beautiful display! No yellow tint or light leakage. Colors and of course resolution are fantastic.
> My monitor does have more than 5 stuck/dead pixels. I have probably about 20 scattered around the right border of the screen. They are _impossible_ to see in normal use. I can only find them when I switch to an all-black screen in 'high contrast' mode, and make a special effort. Presumably some of the the stuck pixels may correct themselves over time. It's simply not a problem.
> Overall I am a satisfied customer. I got a Crossover 27 for the lowest price on Ebay. My display looks fantastic.
> Where I fault lightnspace/astrobile is in its eBay listings.The listings state that, by their policy, more than 5 dead/stuck pixels makes a monitor "faulty." Of course, they never claim that they don't sell 'faulty' monitors, but this is implied. The listings create an expectation in some buyers of receiving nearly 'perfect pixel' panels. I never had this expectation, since these were the least expensive Crossover monitors on eBay. I expected that the lower price would bring a few extra stuck pixels.
> With regard to these these eBay listings, it's obvious that English is not the native language of their authors. While I do believe the listings should be edited for clarity, I don't think there's some master plan by lightnspace/astrobile to sneak a few extra stuck pixels onto our screens.


You got ripped off. He is supposed to cover the return shipping for any monitor with an obscene amount of dead pixels like yours.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> You got ripped off. He is supposed to cover the return shipping for any monitor with an obscene amount of dead pixels like yours.


He won't! I got mine from this seller, I have over 30 stuck pixels on the right edge of the screen, I emailed him, opened a dispute case, escalated to claim, and he never even responded to my emails or the claim, none! Paypal ruled that I am responsible for the return shipping cost, even though the seller lost in the claim in default for failing to respond to the claim (he obviously knows that I won't be able to ship back the monitors, reasons are stated below). Further more, paypal requires signature confirmation, paypal told me that if I ship using USPS, paypal would not be able to verify the signature online, and if seller claims he never signed for it (which if using USPS, seller would claim he never signed for the shipment, and USPS won't be able to produce the online signature), then paypal won't give me my refund.

The cheapest shipping rate for returning one monitor (USPS is not allowed) is with FEDEX whose online rate quote is $378 (for one monitor), paypal requires me to send both monitors back since the seller didn't respond to my claim, I am not allowed to return only the defected monitor (the other monitor doesn't have massive defective pixels but has severe backlight bleed), but must return both monitors to get the full refund. I am essentially screwed again by paypal this time: I am forced to keep the defected monitors, because the return shipping costs more then the purchase price.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> He won't! I got mine from this seller, I have over 30 stuck pixels on the right edge of the screen, I emailed him, opened a dispute case, escalated to claim, and he never even responded to my emails or the claim, none! Paypal ruled that I am responsible for the return shipping cost, even though the seller lost in the claim in default for failing to respond to the claim (he obviously knows that I won't be able to ship back the monitors, reasons are stated below). Further more, paypal requires signature confirmation, paypal told me that if I ship using USPS, paypal would not be able to verify the signature online, and if seller claims he never signed for it (which if using USPS, seller would claim he never signed for the shipment, and USPS won't be able to produce the online signature), then paypal won't give me my refund.
> The cheapest shipping rate for returning one monitor (USPS is not allowed) is with FEDEX whose online rate quote is $378 (for one monitor), paypal requires me to send both monitors back since the seller didn't respond to my claim, I am not allowed to return only the defected monitor (the other monitor doesn't have massive defective pixels but has severe backlight bleed), but must return both monitors to get the full refund. I am essentially screwed again by paypal this time: I am forced to keep the defected monitors, because the return shipping costs more then the purchase price.


There goes the $700. Sucks to know you got faulty monitors and you can't do anything about it and you got scammed for $700 by korean douche.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> He won't! I got mine from this seller, I have over 30 stuck pixels on the right edge of the screen, I emailed him, opened a dispute case, escalated to claim, and he never even responded to my emails or the claim, none! Paypal ruled that I am responsible for the return shipping cost, even though the seller lost in the claim in default for failing to respond to the claim (he obviously knows that I won't be able to ship back the monitors, reasons are stated below). Further more, paypal requires signature confirmation, paypal told me that if I ship using USPS, paypal would not be able to verify the signature online, and if seller claims he never signed for it (which if using USPS, seller would claim he never signed for the shipment, and USPS won't be able to produce the online signature), then paypal won't give me my refund.
> The cheapest shipping rate for returning one monitor (USPS is not allowed) is with FEDEX whose online rate quote is $378 (for one monitor), paypal requires me to send both monitors back since the seller didn't respond to my claim, I am not allowed to return only the defected monitor (the other monitor doesn't have massive defective pixels but has severe backlight bleed), but must return both monitors to get the full refund. I am essentially screwed again by paypal this time: I am forced to keep the defected monitors, because the return shipping costs more then the purchase price.


Well this is why there are recommended sellers to go through.
Now to solve your issue. Your return shipping cost seem to be way high. Do you know that the sellers don';t pay as high as your selling when shipping to and from. Reason being they label the product as being less then or equal to 100$, 90$. I did an estimate of return shipping for the fun of it awhile ago and it was way cheaper then what your saying. So don't screw yourself over and do it the right way unless you just want the monitor.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> He won't! I got mine from this seller, I have over 30 stuck pixels on the right edge of the screen, I emailed him, opened a dispute case, escalated to claim, and he never even responded to my emails or the claim, none! Paypal ruled that I am responsible for the return shipping cost, even though the seller lost in the claim in default for failing to respond to the claim (he obviously knows that I won't be able to ship back the monitors, reasons are stated below). Further more, paypal requires signature confirmation, paypal told me that if I ship using USPS, paypal would not be able to verify the signature online, and if seller claims he never signed for it (which if using USPS, seller would claim he never signed for the shipment, and USPS won't be able to produce the online signature), then paypal won't give me my refund.
> The cheapest shipping rate for returning one monitor (USPS is not allowed) is with FEDEX whose online rate quote is $378 (for one monitor), paypal requires me to send both monitors back since the seller didn't respond to my claim, I am not allowed to return only the defected monitor (the other monitor doesn't have massive defective pixels but has severe backlight bleed), but must return both monitors to get the full refund. I am essentially screwed again by paypal this time: I am forced to keep the defected monitors, because the return shipping costs more then the purchase price.


I think I understand that you bought two monitors, one of which is defective.
Now you have the obligation to return both monitors to get the money back, which is not feasible due to high shipping costs. I have a possible solution for you, please contact me via PM.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

Maybe I am missing something. Why do a few stuck pixels matter, if you can't even see them? Is it a problem that grows worse over time?

Perhaps I am misidentifying the condition of my monitor. On my monitor it's almost impossible to even see the questionable pixels. They are scattered (not clustered) and only can be discovered at significant effort.

Last year I bought a 1080P Samsung that had a dead pixel near the center of the screen. On that particular monitor, the dead pixel was noticeable and annoying. But on this Crossover, I (literally) can't even see the issue unless I try.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> Maybe I am missing something. Why do a few stuck pixels matter


It mattered because I had paid for monitors that advertised as to have no more than 4 defective pixels, 10 to 30+ defective pixels are way over the threshold, and this happened to 3 members here in little over two weeks period, this in my book constitutes FRAUD! Just because you are happy to be screwed doesn't mean others are unreasonable when they refuse to be f**ked! some people live their lives without any principle, which is not my business, but I am not one of them, when I pay for a monitor that specifies to have no more than 4 defective pixels, I demand a monitor that has no more than 4 defective pixels, this is called Principle! also called Discipline in this case.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> It mattered because I had paid for monitors that advertised as to have no more than 4 defective pixels, 10 to 30+ defective pixels are way over the threshold, and this happened to 3 members here in little over two weeks period, this in my book constitutes FRAUD! Just because you are happy to be screwed doesn't mean others are unreasonable when they refuse to be f**ked! some people live their lives without any principle, which is not my business, but I am not one of them, when I pay for a monitor that specifies to have no more than 4 defective pixels, I demand a monitor that has no more than 4 defective pixels, this is called Principle! also called Discipline in this case.


Oh, okay. Good luck with that.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> http://www.laszlopusztai.net/2009/08/23/stop-losing-display-calibration-with-windows-7/


your link 404s


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> your link 404s


Just clicked it right now, its working.
Maybe your anti-virus/malware is blocking it.

If still an issue just Google
"Stop Losing Display Calibration with Windows 7"


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Just clicked it right now, its working.
> Maybe your anti-virus/malware is blocking it.


NOT FOUND, ERROR 404

but it shows authors, recent posts etc throughout the page but says 404 at top for that specific article

edit: I found it on that site, we will see if it is the same for windows 8


----------



## borgqueenx

So far not a good experience with BCC:
Anwered all my questions but also lies...
Ordered monday...still no tracking code.
At tuesday i heard:
Quote:


> Beste borgqueenx,
> 
> Hello~
> 
> Tracking number will be updated after tomorrow.
> 
> Best Regards
> Hayley
> 
> - bigclothcraft


Thursday i heard:
Quote:


> Beste borgqueenx,
> 
> Hello~
> 
> It will be shipped today.
> Thanks for your waiting for us.
> Tracking number will be updated aftershipment.
> 
> Best Regards
> Hayley
> 
> - bigclothcraft


Now the friday is also almost over in korea and no message or tracking code.
They dont need to think to get 5 stars on shipping speed- i want this before christmas.

EDIT: oh and it gets better because i called DHL(they said to use dhl for me) and DHL said there is no package heading for my post code or name.
Or they forgot and used another ship company instead.
Anyway, they are lies. And if i dont get to see a tracking number on monday i will demand a refund and else open a paypal dispute the next day.
i hoped out of other people experiences that this was a good seller.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> So far not a good experience with BCC:
> Anwered all my questions but also lies...
> Ordered monday...still no tracking code.
> At tuesday i heard:
> Thursday i heard:
> Now the friday is also almost over in korea and no message or tracking code.
> They dont need to think to get 5 stars on shipping speed- i want this before christmas.
> EDIT: oh and it gets better because i called DHL(they said to use dhl for me) and DHL said there is no package heading for my post code or name.
> Or they forgot and used another ship company instead.
> Anyway, they are lies. And if i dont get to see a tracking number on monday i will demand a refund and else open a paypal dispute the next day.
> i hoped out of other people experiences that this was a good seller.


This problem happened a number of times. The monitor usually gets delivered the next week.


----------



## tomcanbefound

Hey sorry im sure this has been asked before but the thread is rather deep now.

i want to run 2 of these monitors preferably of an HD7950...

Questions are:

I cannot find a 7950 with 2x DVI-D outputs... Can i use a converter from a display port / HDMI? All the z series motherboards im looking at for the new rig say max 1920x1200 resolution, any workaround or MB that supports higher res?
Would a 7950 even be powerfull enough to run 2 of these gaming?
How does anyone here running a dual setup go about it?
Thanks in advance!

T


----------



## TheZoltan

I am waiting on a monitor ordered last week from astrobile (aka lightnspace) before I saw user33s experience! Feeling somewhat more nervous about my purchase now lol!

So far my experience with astrobile has been getting worse. I bought the monitor last Friday and paid immediately plus a few extra dollars for expedited 3-5 day shipping. As you would expect I didn't hear anything over the weekend (which is fine). On Monday I got an email saying my monitor had been dispatched which was good to hear! First problem was it was shipped with Pantos (www.epantos.com) who I have never heard of. I wasn't massively concerned but it seemed odd as his eBay listings are covered in FedEx logos! I was given a tracking number which is recognised by their site (site seems kinda buggy). The site lists my name a carrier number and then there is an empty tracking table and the word "null" in a few places (which as a web developer doesn't fill me with confidence!) and that is about it. I have contacted both astrobile and the courier directly and have received no response from either of them yet. I would be happy with just a quick "Don't worry the tracking is broken but its coming" but no response at all is kinda annoying.

I will post again once (IF?) it turns up on the condition of the monitor.


----------



## borgqueenx

At least he said its shipped and you got tracking. I heard its shipped twice now without any tracking code.


----------



## Fateye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheZoltan*
> 
> I am waiting on a monitor ordered last week from astrobile (aka lightnspace) before I saw user33s experience! Feeling somewhat more nervous about my purchase now lol!
> So far my experience with astrobile has been getting worse. I bought the monitor last Friday and paid immediately plus a few extra dollars for expedited 3-5 day shipping. As you would expect I didn't hear anything over the weekend (which is fine). On Monday I got an email saying my monitor had been dispatched which was good to hear! First problem was it was shipped with Pantos (www.epantos.com) who I have never heard of. I wasn't massively concerned but it seemed odd as his eBay listings are covered in FedEx logos! I was given a tracking number which is recognised by their site (site seems kinda buggy). The site lists my name a carrier number and then there is an empty tracking table and the word "null" in a few places (which as a web developer doesn't fill me with confidence!) and that is about it. I have contacted both astrobile and the courier directly and have received no response from either of them yet. I would be happy with just a quick "Don't worry the tracking is broken but its coming" but no response at all is kinda annoying.
> I will post again once (IF?) it turns up on the condition of the monitor.


This happened to me, shortly after that it got changed to Fedex.
I've sent pictures of the pixel problem to Lightnspace and he told me that they've forwarded them to Crossover. Waiting for a reply.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateye*
> 
> This happened to me, shortly after that it got changed to Fedex.
> I've sent pictures of the pixel problem to Lightnspace and he told me that they've forwarded them to Crossover. Waiting for a reply.


i would try to contact those guys myself. maybe they can speak english who knows.


----------



## kimba934

I ordered from IFGmarket on Dec11 evening. FexEx tried to deliver the package on Dec13 afternoon but missed me. Very fast shipping from Korea to the US and I did not even receive the tracking information. So, be patient, the monitor will arrive even the sellers do not send tracking information.


----------



## borgqueenx

I hope so...


----------



## TheZoltan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimba934*
> 
> I ordered from IFGmarket on Dec11 evening. FexEx tried to deliver the package on Dec13 afternoon but missed me. Very fast shipping from Korea to the US and I did not even receive the tracking information. So, be patient, the monitor will arrive even the sellers do not send tracking information.


That is impressively quick! I ordered on the 7th to the UK and still don't have it so I have been a lot longer with out tracking information. I am sure (well pretty sure) its going to turn up but this is definitely a mark against astrobile seeing as he claims you will get tracking information and has failed to provide it or even respond to messages!


----------



## borgqueenx

glad im not the only one without trracking info.

what about your ebay status of the purchase. is it marked as send or still as paid, not shipped yet.
I heard it was shipped thursday but no tracking info and ebay status of item still doesnt say its shipped either.

the US lives in -hours right? well korea lives in +8GMT or so, so thats why people in the us get it faster. the plane travels per hour a hour less if you know what i mean.
we in europe need wait a day longer. with DHL i usally get packages in 3 days sometimes 4. never in 5 or more.


----------



## TheZoltan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomcanbefound*
> 
> Hey sorry im sure this has been asked before but the thread is rather deep now.
> i want to run 2 of these monitors preferably of an HD7950...
> Questions are:
> 
> I cannot find a 7950 with 2x DVI-D outputs... Can i use a converter from a display port / HDMI? All the z series motherboards im looking at for the new rig say max 1920x1200 resolution, any workaround or MB that supports higher res?
> Would a 7950 even be powerfull enough to run 2 of these gaming?
> How does anyone here running a dual setup go about it?
> Thanks in advance!
> T


I THINK display port/HDMI to DVI-D on that card should work fine. Though if I understand correctly only the newest version of HDMI can handle the full resolution so might want to get further confirmation on that.

I don't think many people game on dual screen. Its normally single or triple to avoid the join being in the centre







The 7950 will run any game you like at this resolution but for some of the most demanding games you wont quite be able to max out the graphics setting (assuming you want 60fps).


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheZoltan*
> 
> I THINK display port/HDMI to DVI-D on that card should work fine. Though if I understand correctly only the newest version of HDMI can handle the full resolution so might want to get further confirmation on that.
> I don't think many people game on dual screen. Its normally single or triple to avoid the join being in the centre
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 7950 will run any game you like at this resolution but for some of the most demanding games you wont quite be able to max out the graphics setting (assuming you want 60fps).


I don't believe there is a HDMI adapter made that will do anything higher then 1920x1200, so that point is moot. There are some from Display port, but it's super picky.

For the record, on one 2560x1600 screen I have to turn settings down in all new games with my 670. When people say GPU's are way more powerful then current games, they are only referring to 1080p resolution.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomcanbefound*
> 
> Hey sorry im sure this has been asked before but the thread is rather deep now.
> i want to run 2 of these monitors preferably of an HD7950...
> Questions are:
> 
> I cannot find a 7950 with 2x DVI-D outputs... Can i use a converter from a display port / HDMI? All the z series motherboards im looking at for the new rig say max 1920x1200 resolution, any workaround or MB that supports higher res?
> Would a 7950 even be powerfull enough to run 2 of these gaming?
> How does anyone here running a dual setup go about it?
> Thanks in advance!
> T


HD 7950 does not exist in 2x DL-DVI flavours.
You can use a DP to DL-DVI adapter, but they cost ~60-70 dollars each. Cheaper ones need not apply (they do not work).
You cannot convert from HDMI -> DL-DVI. Well, technically running single input monitors from HDMI via passive adapter has been done, but it was running the monitor WAY out of spec and stability was questionable. Highly, _highly_ not recommended. A standard HDMI 1440p is not the same signal as a standard DVI 1440p.
HD 7950 is likely not powerful enough to run 2x of these monitors for gaming.


----------



## bigmike7

Yo-

*My Crossover 27Q SUDDENLY DIED!!!*

On December 5th - I turned on my system - the monitor came on showing boot screen, Win 7 start up and the desktop for about one minute - *then SUDDENLY DIED!!!* No display - NO power light in lower right hand corner - green light on power brick on.

Immediately sent *Accessorieswhole* an email - detailing the problem - got reply several days later after sending second email - they wanted *me* to disassemble the monitor and test the pc board - what a crock-eh!!

Today they finally answered and said essentially that they couldn't find my sale back in May and said that I had to make sure to make sure the monitor was in fact not working - what another crock!!

Bottom line - *BEWARE OF BUYING A KOREAN MONITOR - ESPECIALLY FROM ACCESSORIESWHOLE!!*


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> *My Crossover 27Q SUDDENLY DIED!!!*
> On December 5th - I turned on my system - the monitor came on showing boot screen, Win 7 start up and the desktop for about one minute - *then SUDDENLY DIED!!!* No display - NO power light in lower right hand corner - green light on power brick on.
> Immediately sent *Accessorieswhole* an email - detailing the problem - got reply several days later after sending second email - they wanted *me* to disassemble the monitor and test the pc board - what a crock-eh!!
> Today they finally answered and said essentially that they couldn't find my sale back in May and said that I had to make sure to make sure the monitor was in fact not working - what another crock!!
> Bottom line - *BEWARE OF BUYING A KOREAN MONITOR - ESPECIALLY FROM ACCESSORIESWHOLE!!*


Who would expect that...

Anyway, maybe it's brick issue?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> *My Crossover 27Q SUDDENLY DIED!!!*
> On December 5th - I turned on my system - the monitor came on showing boot screen, Win 7 start up and the desktop for about one minute - *then SUDDENLY DIED!!!* No display - NO power light in lower right hand corner - green light on power brick on.
> Immediately sent *Accessorieswhole* an email - detailing the problem - got reply several days later after sending second email - they wanted *me* to disassemble the monitor and test the pc board - what a crock-eh!!
> Today they finally answered and said essentially that they couldn't find my sale back in May and said that I had to make sure to make sure the monitor was in fact not working - what another crock!!
> Bottom line - *BEWARE OF BUYING A KOREAN MONITOR - ESPECIALLY FROM ACCESSORIESWHOLE!!*


Hows it a load of crock. Ok the monitor suddenly died on you, just as any pc hardware that fails. You have to trouble shoot it before deciding what to do. That's exactly what he's asking you. I understand you are still under warranty, but to make it an easier transition... He wants to make sure if it's a piece he can replace., to get it back up and running instead of replacing the entire unit.
So I'll list it for you.
1. Check cables, Try different cables.
2. If you bought more then 1 monitor try the other power brick.
3. Open up the housing and recheck the cables and check the pcb to see if anything is burnt.
4. Print screen of your purchase whether it was from ebay or paypal and send him the invoice.

Once you do all that guarantee there shouldn't be any problems.

Guys need to look at things calmly and rational. Not just explode like you did.

Just to add, other individuals have had monitors die or pcbs burnt and did the same thing I listed above and got there replacement. It's not being asked to jerk you around, there's a method to the madness.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> *My Crossover 27Q SUDDENLY DIED!!!*
> On December 5th - I turned on my system - the monitor came on showing boot screen, Win 7 start up and the desktop for about one minute - *then SUDDENLY DIED!!!* No display - NO power light in lower right hand corner - green light on power brick on.
> Immediately sent *Accessorieswhole* an email - detailing the problem - got reply several days later after sending second email - they wanted *me* to disassemble the monitor and test the pc board - what a crock-eh!!
> Today they finally answered and said essentially that they couldn't find my sale back in May and said that I had to make sure to make sure the monitor was in fact not working - what another crock!!
> Bottom line - *BEWARE OF BUYING A KOREAN MONITOR - ESPECIALLY FROM ACCESSORIESWHOLE!!*


Accessorieswhole is the best seller on ebay for korean monitors hands down. He's asking you to troubleshoot as the guy above me said, so he can figure out where to go from there. If it is completely dead, I'm sure he will not only pay for return shipping, but also send you a replacement. Slow your role, son.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> *My Crossover 27Q SUDDENLY DIED!!!*
> On December 5th - I turned on my system - the monitor came on showing boot screen, Win 7 start up and the desktop for about one minute - *then SUDDENLY DIED!!!* No display - NO power light in lower right hand corner - green light on power brick on.
> Immediately sent *Accessorieswhole* an email - detailing the problem - got reply several days later after sending second email - they wanted *me* to disassemble the monitor and test the pc board - what a crock-eh!!
> Today they finally answered and said essentially that they couldn't find my sale back in May and said that I had to make sure to make sure the monitor was in fact not working - what another crock!!
> Bottom line - *BEWARE OF BUYING A KOREAN MONITOR - ESPECIALLY FROM ACCESSORIESWHOLE!!*


You sound like a little kid.

Anyway, all monitors have a risk of DOA whether they are Korean, Dell, HP, etc. It's basically luck of the draw.

Do what the seller told you to do. Follow their steps and stop acting like a 6 year old.


----------



## borgqueenx

paste the whole mail. how does he want you to test a board? i would have no idea how to do that.
although opening up is simple, then check for burns ect. if there is a spot burned its easy to get a new board for free
relax and dont freak out immediatly.


----------



## warmchords

After reading through pages and pages of this thread I pulled the trigger on a 27Q from BCC, thought I'd report with first impressions:

I've been using it for about an hour. Can't find any dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleeding, no discoloration from what I can see, *however... I'm experiencing significant image retention problems.*

Light images in browser windows, left open and static on the screen for as little as two minutes, persist when I open up Photoshop CS6 and view the dark gray background color. I will say that these "burn-ins" also only persist for about 1-2 minutes before fading. If I felt confident that the duration of the burn-in retention would stay at the 1-2 minute mark forever I might not even mind that much, but I'm concerned that it will only get worse.

Has anyone else received a 27Q with light to moderate image retention / burn in issues? Has it gotten worse for you? Were you able to return your display based on that issue?


----------



## froleo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> *My Crossover 27Q SUDDENLY DIED!!!*
> On December 5th - I turned on my system - the monitor came on showing boot screen, Win 7 start up and the desktop for about one minute - *then SUDDENLY DIED!!!* No display - NO power light in lower right hand corner - green light on power brick on.
> Immediately sent *Accessorieswhole* an email - detailing the problem - got reply several days later after sending second email - they wanted *me* to disassemble the monitor and test the pc board - what a crock-eh!!
> Today they finally answered and said essentially that they couldn't find my sale back in May and said that I had to make sure to make sure the monitor was in fact not working - what another crock!!
> Bottom line - *BEWARE OF BUYING A KOREAN MONITOR - ESPECIALLY FROM ACCESSORIESWHOLE!!*


I'm having exactly the same problem. The monitor died after just a couple weeks. I have contacted my seller Astrobile today, but I am yet to receive an answer.
I'm really crossing my fingers that this is just a bad power adapter. I have tried two different cables in to the adapter, with no luck. I randomly managed to get the monitor light to glow red, but it just blinked to blue for a sec when I pressed the on button, before going back to red again.

Since this monitor has an external adapter, does this mean that it doesn't have a regular power supply inside? I bought the Crossover because the power supply died on my old 2494HM, it really sucks to have this happen again. Well, I just hope everything ends up well.

If you manage to locate the source of the issue, please let me know!


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *froleo*
> 
> I'm having exactly the same problem. The monitor died after just a couple weeks. I have contacted my seller Astrobile today, but I am yet to receive an answer.
> I'm really crossing my fingers that this is just a bad power adapter. I have tried two different cables in to the adapter, with no luck. I randomly managed to get the monitor light to glow red, but it just blinked to blue for a sec when I pressed the on button, before going back to red again.
> Since this monitor has an external adapter, does this mean that it doesn't have a regular power supply inside? I bought the Crossover because the power supply died on my old 2494HM, it really sucks to have this happen again. Well, I just hope everything ends up well.
> If you manage to locate the source of the issue, please let me know!


It must be the faulty power switch like what I have with one monitor from astrobile, I emailed him three weeks ago, he never responded, paypal want s me to pay the shipping cost to return the monitor to Korea.

Check your power switch, in my case it either not turning on when I pressed the switch when the monitor is off, and that could went on for 10, 20 press before it would turn on, and same when I am want to turn it off, it would stay on, and I had to press 10, 20 times to turn it off. This is what I had been saying about how poor the "workmanship" these monitors have: none! these are are like stone age gadgets made by mom and pap shops in far east.


----------



## WalkaboutSam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *froleo*
> 
> I'm having exactly the same problem. The monitor died after just a couple weeks.


This is what I've been concerned about. A few stuck pixels? No problem. A dead monitor? PROBLEM.

The SquareTrade warranty is looking better every day. You can get 3 years of coverage for $49. The coverage starts on your 46th day of ownership. I think you have within 30 days of your original product purchase to buy the warranty (not sure about those details).

Given the questionable level of 'craftsmanship' on these Korean monitors, having some sort of long term coverage makes a lot of sense.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalkaboutSam*
> 
> This is what I've been concerned about. A few stuck pixels? No problem. A dead monitor? PROBLEM.
> The SquareTrade warranty is looking better every day. You can get 3 years of coverage for $49. The coverage starts on your 46th day of ownership. I think you have within 30 days of your original product purchase to buy the warranty (not sure about those details).
> Given the questionable level of 'craftsmanship' on these Korean monitors, having some sort of long term coverage makes a lot of sense.


DOA is very rare though.


----------



## borgqueenx

Bcc marked my package as send today.(so i guess they do work today but dont answer messages)
However, it says it might take 48hours for the tracking code to work wich is nonsense. I shipped more packages with dhl and as soon as its shipped the tracking works within the hour.
Its weird that i have a tracking code at dhl wich doesnt work because if its a code really received by dhl then well...it should be trackable.
Received this code 7 hours ago.

@warmchords: yes more people had this issue and you are scaring the crap out of me since i bought from desame seller ^^


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Bcc marked my package as send today.(so i guess they do work today but dont answer messages)
> However, it says it might take 48hours for the tracking code to work wich is nonsense. I shipped more packages with dhl and as soon as its shipped the tracking works within the hour.
> Its weird that i have a tracking code at dhl wich doesnt work because if its a code really received by dhl then well...it should be trackable.
> Received this code 7 hours ago.
> @warmchords: yes more people had this issue and you are scaring the crap out of me since i bought from desame seller ^^


Did you ever think about the time it takes from the date the company sends your monitor to a local shipping route to an shipping company?

Perhaps your location is closer to DHL than these Korean companies are.


----------



## F0zzie

If I'm not mistaken, people here have these screens for more than 8 months, and we didn't heard much complains on dead screens etc... But it truly scary to think about situation that the screen can die after a few months and there is no one to turn to (let's be real, after a few month the Korean sellers can ignore you completely and you can't do a thing about it).
At least US/UK buyers have the TradeSquare insurance. All other buyer have nothing (like me)...


----------



## kimba934

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimba934*
> 
> I ordered from IFGmarket on Dec11 evening. FexEx tried to deliver the package on Dec13 afternoon but missed me. Very fast shipping from Korea to the US and I did not even receive the tracking information. So, be patient, the monitor will arrive even the sellers do not send tracking information.


I took delivery of my monitor yesterday. The box appears to be in good shape considering it has traveled a long way. The monitor is in good shape as I did not find any defects nor damages from shipping. I set up and powered on the monitor today. The picture quality looks good in Mac OS X. I did a quick scan of the screen and did not find any stuck or dead pixels. The screen appears to be uniform in a blank white screen. Although I find it a little bit in the yellowish tint as compared to my beloved HP 2511X. I guess this is the characteristic of the IPS panel. I will check out the Apple monitor to compare later. Overall, I am quite satisfied with my purchase. The text is so clear and sharp as I am typing this feedback.


----------



## champers

Just thought I'd mention that I'm still using my Crossover Portrait monitor and haven't had a single issue in the last 6 months. Bought from AW and have been using the originally supplied power brick w/ their free Korean power adapter.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Did you ever think about the time it takes from the date the company sends your monitor to a local shipping route to an shipping company?
> Perhaps your location is closer to DHL than these Korean companies are.


When a dhl code is given out, the first scan is made(electronicly prealerted).
Maybe its different in korea but this has always been the case from china sellers.

Code is still not working and its 2am in korea now.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Hi everyone,

I apologise in advance because this will be a long post...but some might find it interesting.

Several weeks ago i posted about a crossover a friend bought with strange red artifacts on the screen.
You can read the original post here

In the meantime i have travelled to my friend with a bunch of spare pc's and videocards and my yamakasi to try the monitor/pc out with a variation of hardware to make sure the monitor was failing.
Turns out the problem is in the monitor and since sending it back costs more then the monitor costed my friend told me to get rid of the monitor, i suggested to take it home with me.

I of course did a variation of tests at home but i couldn't really do much to 'fix' the monitor, until i got the crazy idea of explaining the situation to the seller i got my yamakasi from (green-sum) and ordering another same model crossover from my seller (the malfunctioning one comes from another seller).
The reason why i ordered another one is to be able to swap the pcb's from the good new one to the bad one and see if it fixes the problem by replacing the pcb.

Now, it turns out that my new crossover has a rev.02 version of the pcb and the malfunctioning one has a rev.03 pcb; and the wiring is different.

The led pcb is identical and i tried to swap those but that doesn't fix the problem.
See included pics, i have other pics with the wiring visible if anyone wants to see that.
Also the led pcb is on the other side inside the monitor.

What i really need to know is the details of these different pcb versions, and specifically about the 'all in one' pcb i read about here.
I think it would be good for this thread if users that feel up to opening their monitors took pics of their pcb's, it might be valuable information for others users with troubles.

For now, since the pcb's are different i can't swap them to try so the only thing i can do is order a new rev.03 from my seller but i could use a picture or serial number/type of the 'all in one' pcb, if anyone has one.
And of course if anyone has ideas or opinions what i can try your comments are very welcome.

Rev.02 pcb


Rev.03 pcb


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> I apologise in advance because this will be a long post...but some might find it interesting.
> Several weeks ago i posted about a crossover a friend bought with strange red artifacts on the screen.
> You can read the original post here
> In the meantime i have travelled to my friend with a bunch of spare pc's and videocards and my yamakasi to try the monitor/pc out with a variation of hardware to make sure the monitor was failing.
> Turns out the problem is in the monitor and since sending it back costs more then the monitor costed my friend told me to get rid of the monitor, i suggested to take it home with me.
> I of course did a variation of tests at home but i couldn't really do much to 'fix' the monitor, until i got the crazy idea of explaining the situation to the seller i got my yamakasi from (green-sum) and ordering another same model crossover from my seller (the malfunctioning one comes from another seller).
> The reason why i ordered another one is to be able to swap the pcb's from the good new one to the bad one and see if it fixes the problem by replacing the pcb.
> Now, it turns out that my new crossover has a rev.02 version of the pcb and the malfunctioning one has a rev.03 pcb; and the wiring is different.
> The led pcb is identical and i tried to swap those but that doesn't fix the problem.
> See included pics, i have other pics with the wiring visible if anyone wants to see that.
> Also the led pcb is on the other side inside the monitor.
> What i really need to know is the details of these different pcb versions, and specifically about the 'all in one' pcb i read about here.
> I think it would be good for this thread if users that feel up to opening their monitors took pics of their pcb's, it might be valuable information for others users with troubles.
> For now, since the pcb's are different i can't swap them to try so the only thing i can do is order a new rev.03 from my seller but i could use a picture or serial number/type of the 'all in one' pcb, if anyone has one.
> And of course if anyone has ideas or opinions what i can try your comments are very welcome.
> Rev.02 pcb
> 
> Rev.03 pcb


Very interesting analysis. You should contact the other seller and question why the PCB on that one was different and why he used the rev.03 PCB.


----------



## Xibal

that's not a good sign, mine is rev.03 pcb, exact same orientation.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Notice the different cable on the main pcb on DP out, in rev.03 its in the white connector, in rev.02 there is a smaller cable attached before the white connector.
The smaller white connector on the right of DP out is used in rev.02 and not in rev.03 and those cables go to a full width pcb on top of the monitor which also has different connections.

So, what should i do with the faulty monitor?
Ask my seller for a rev.03 pcb?
Has anyone seen a picture of the 'all in one' pcb?


----------



## borgqueenx

My guess is that rev3 is the best to have. They wouldnt bother for a new revision if it was working perfect. And well...anything in the world can be defected.

Im getting rev3 end this week hopefully...if the seller didnt lie.
Then i can report if its good.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Yeah the rev.03 should be ok, Xibal has one and it seems to be working for him so it should be like a improved version.
So my best bet might be to replace the rev.03 in the faulty monitor.
I would kinda like to ask my seller to send me a rev.03 AND a 'all in one' pcb, (which doesn't need the led pcb anymore) but i have no idea what revision or type i have to ask him for


----------



## Xibal

Working so far, but i'll be testing this with the hot summer down in Australia so it'll be kinda of like a stress test to see how well it holds in 35-40deg C.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Yeah the rev.03 should be ok, Xibal has one and it seems to be working for him so it should be like a improved version.
> So my best bet might be to replace the rev.03 in the faulty monitor.
> I would kinda like to ask my seller to send me a rev.03 AND a 'all in one' pcb, (which doesn't need the led pcb anymore) but i have no idea what revision or type i have to ask him for


just ask for the revision number. they usally know what revisions they have.


----------



## Mackem

OK, so in January I am going to order a pixel perfect 2720MDP GOLD LED PIVOT from Accessorieswhole. Can anyone tell me what the input lag/response time is like on this? I'm not like a ridiculously hardcore gamer but it would be nice to know. Also, I'm not really clued up on whether or not I'll be charged import VAT/Tax to the UK; Is there anywhere I can find this information and how much I would most likely pay?

Thank you.


----------



## tr1xst3r

Can anyone please help me decide which seller I should go with?

dream-seller:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Pixe-l-Perfect-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-27-Monitor-Monitor-QHD-100-Test-shipping-/330766722822?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d033ba706&_uhb=1#ht_7830wt_1163

accessorieswhole:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d#ht_19442wt_1163

red-cap:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixles-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-27-PC-Monitor-/321039607575?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abf73a717&_uhb=1#ht_18965wt_1397

red-cap and DS are offering "Perfect Pixel" checks, while AW has an amazing return policy but without "Perfect Pixel" check. I am getting it shipped to Ontario, Canada.

Thanks!


----------



## Delphiwizard

Mackem, quote from the dhl site:

What goods are subject to Duty and VAT?
All goods imported into the UK from outside the EU must be declared to HM Revenue & Customs and in most cases, are subject to Customs Duty and VAT. This includes goods bought over the Internet.

So yes there will be customs and vat fee, how much is hard to tell.
I hope you are more lucky then i was, dhl charged me for a whopping 152.22 euro fee, which is like 44% of the monitor value; ridiculously high, i made a complaint but they are playing deaf and mute about it now.


----------



## oomer0739

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> OK, so in January I am going to order a pixel perfect 2720MDP GOLD LED PIVOT from Accessorieswhole. Can anyone tell me what the input lag/response time is like on this? I'm not like a ridiculously hardcore gamer but it would be nice to know. Also, I'm not really clued up on whether or not I'll be charged import VAT/Tax to the UK; Is there anywhere I can find this information and how much I would most likely pay?
> Thank you.


worse case scenario is that you would pay import duty at 14% and also VAT at 20% of the price you actually paid for the monitor, what usually happens is that the seller will value the item for customs at a really low rate i.e. $100 so in fact you would pay something like £20-£30.
Obviously this depends on a number of factors, the seller, the courier, the customs and excise guy on duty at the time, but i look at it like this, even if you pay the full duty you still have a great piece of kit for your money.
oomer0739


----------



## F0zzie

Anyone got the new Crossover 27QD-P Blade ? What is its bezel width ? Is there a difference from the 27Q-P except from the black plastic back ?


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks

A friend wants to purchase a Crossover 1440p screen.

Can someone guide me to the correct seller? Correct link?

PM is also appreciated.


----------



## tr1xst3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> A friend wants to purchase a Crossover 1440p screen.
> 
> Can someone guide me to the correct seller? Correct link?
> 
> PM is also appreciated.


I personally went with:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d#ht_19442wt_1163

accessorieswhole has amazing rep, has a return / exchange policy in place in case the monitor comes defective (more than xx amount of dead pixels, really bad tint, backlight bleeding, etc). Numerous people have also said red-cap, dream-seller, TA_Planet and green-sum are great as well but I really wanted peace of mind by getting a reputable return / exchange in case something happens.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr1xst3r*
> 
> I personally went with:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d#ht_19442wt_1163
> accessorieswhole has amazing rep, has a return / exchange policy in place in case the monitor comes defective (more than xx amount of dead pixels, really bad tint, backlight bleeding, etc). Numerous people have also said red-cap, dream-seller, TA_Planet and green-sum are great as well but I really wanted peace of mind by getting a reputable return / exchange in case something happens.


Perfect. It also comes tested I believe.

thanks +rep


----------



## TheZoltan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheZoltan*
> 
> I am waiting on a monitor ordered last week from astrobile (aka lightnspace) before I saw user33s experience! Feeling somewhat more nervous about my purchase now lol!
> So far my experience with astrobile has been getting worse. I bought the monitor last Friday and paid immediately plus a few extra dollars for expedited 3-5 day shipping. As you would expect I didn't hear anything over the weekend (which is fine). On Monday I got an email saying my monitor had been dispatched which was good to hear! First problem was it was shipped with Pantos (www.epantos.com) who I have never heard of. I wasn't massively concerned but it seemed odd as his eBay listings are covered in FedEx logos! I was given a tracking number which is recognised by their site (site seems kinda buggy). The site lists my name a carrier number and then there is an empty tracking table and the word "null" in a few places (which as a web developer doesn't fill me with confidence!) and that is about it. I have contacted both astrobile and the courier directly and have received no response from either of them yet. I would be happy with just a quick "Don't worry the tracking is broken but its coming" but no response at all is kinda annoying.
> I will post again once (IF?) it turns up on the condition of the monitor.


Update on my orginal post (above). Got an email back from astrobile today (3 days after messaging him. Still no reply from Pantos). Saying sorry and to try the number on the "UK posts" website. A bit of clicking around (and installing some weird software) on Pantoses site took me to parcel force UK. Entered the carrier number that is displayed on Pantos when I enter the tracking number and BOOM parcel force knows about my monitor. It says it was picked up from the customer yesterday. So 5 days after astrobile said it was dispatched. So thats 8 days (5 working days) to dispatch it! Which is a bit of a joke seeing as he claims to dispatch 1 day after cleared payment and I paid extra for the 3-5 day shipping. Still at least it exists!

Now I just need to cross my fingers and hope reports of him sending out crappy monitors are just isolated bits of bad luck lol


----------



## TheZoltan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> A friend wants to purchase a Crossover 1440p screen.
> 
> Can someone guide me to the correct seller? Correct link?
> 
> PM is also appreciated.


I can't say who to go with but can say I am not impressed with astrobile (also known as lightnspace I think) so far. Slow dispatch and slow communication and if you haven't noticed in the last few pages of this thread there are a couple of people reporting lots of dead pixels and refusing returns! Mine has yet to arrive so I can't comment on the monitor yet!


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> A friend wants to purchase a Crossover 1440p screen.
> 
> Can someone guide me to the correct seller? Correct link?
> 
> PM is also appreciated.


Acessorieswhore, bigclothcraft, green-sum and maybe ta_planet.

Avoid astrobile and lightnspace.


----------



## borgqueenx

Alarm set for 3am because at 2am bigclothcraft usally answers my questions. Curious what they have to say to my dhl tracking code not working for a long time already.
And if it will really work or get shipped tommorow.


----------



## kimba934

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> A friend wants to purchase a Crossover 1440p screen.
> 
> Can someone guide me to the correct seller? Correct link?
> 
> PM is also appreciated.


I purchased a Crossover 27Q from IFGmarket last Monday and received the monitor on Friday. If the monitor to be shipped to the US, I think you can get it very quickly from IFGmarket. My monitor arrived in good shape and it appears to work great so far. I have good experience with IFGmarket.


----------



## borgqueenx

This is bull****...
This was answered on my question why the dhl code was not working yet.
Why mark as send if you did not ship it out yet...i do not recommend doing business with bigclothcraft anymore.
I replied i want a refund if not shipped before wednesday.
Quote:


> Beste borgqueenx,
> 
> Hello~
> 
> Im sorry for the trouble.
> We were doing inspection for the monitors.
> We couldn't find the monitor to ship.
> I hope you will get the best monitor before christmas.
> I won't make you feel uncomfortable when christmas day.
> 
> Best Regards
> Hayley
> 
> - bigclothcraft


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> OK, so in January I am going to order a pixel perfect 2720MDP GOLD LED PIVOT from Accessorieswhole. Can anyone tell me what the input lag/response time is like on this? I'm not like a ridiculously hardcore gamer but it would be nice to know. Also, I'm not really clued up on whether or not I'll be charged import VAT/Tax to the UK; Is there anywhere I can find this information and how much I would most likely pay?
> Thank you.


I've been using the 2720MDP for about 3 months now. After having played games such as Halo 4, Gears of War 3, Gears of War 1, Modern Warfare 2 & 3, and now Black Ops 2, on the Xbox 360, I can tell you that the input lag has not been a problem for me whatsoever. In fact, my scores have only gone better. If it helps, I used to play on a 21 inch Samsung TN based monitor before making the switch to the 2720MDP and I haven't found any reason to complain about lag or responsiveness thus far.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> I've been using the 2720MDP for about 3 months now. After having played games such as Halo 4, Gears of War 3, Gears of War 1, Modern Warfare 2 & 3, and now Black Ops 2, on the Xbox 360, I can tell you that the input lag has not been a problem for me whatsoever. In fact, my scores have only gone better. If it helps, I used to play on a 21 inch Samsung TN based monitor before making the switch to the 2720MDP and I haven't found any reason to complain about lag or responsiveness thus far.


Bought 1440p for 720p xbox duhhhh


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Bought 1440p for 720p xbox duhhhh


chill out man. we all have our uses or multiple uses.


----------



## skyn3t

just give some update of my CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 27" DVI Computer Monitor (QHD) I got it from dream-seller | 5233 | 98.4%
Sale date: 09/09/12 , still rock solid no bleeding, no dead pixel or stuck pixel found on. I'm so happy with the monitor quality and how beaty is the IPS screen games and photos turn out way way beyond than beautiful, also i recommended a friend of mine( importflip ) and he got the CROSSOVER 27Q LED 27" Monitor 2560X1440 High-resolution Monitor(QHD) DVI hes panel are 100% perfect .


----------



## vlenbo

I bought a crossover and have a yamakasi with the crossover as a dual monitor setup, but it is not the pivot version. Is there a way where i can level the crossover with the yamakasi monitor? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013CD0DI/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000IZJVDO&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=16QPH9GT0X3XYQYRGD00 I thought of getting this, but I do not know if it is compatible with the monitor.


----------



## gonX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Bought 1440p for 720p xbox duhhhh


Better than 1080p for displaying 720p content. Less blocky scaling


----------



## borgqueenx

I cant understand people have been talking nice about bigclothcraft thus far...they are plainly lieing to me all the time.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Bought 1440p for 720p xbox duhhhh


I also use it as a display for my Mac mini, if you must know.


----------



## Vexashon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> I cant understand people have been talking nice about bigclothcraft thus far...they are plainly lieing to me all the time.


I would be frustrated too, but based on what I've read so far, this isn't typical. I think you should pursuit your refund as you stated. It sounds like they checked monitors and did not find one suitable to be PP... while they should have done that before selling it on eBay, the good news is that they didn't just go ahead and send you one that had issues.... that would have been worse.

I ordered my PP Crossover Q27 on 12/11 from BCC (based on what I've read on this thread, right before you?) and mine shipped out late last week. It is "out for delivery" on the UPS truck right now. Communication was great. I'm hoping for no issues with the monitor itself... we'll see...


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Just to counter act all the bad monitors people have been getting thusfar, my CrossOver 27Q LED-P came today. Worked right out of the box no problems, checked for dead pixels and found none so far. Backlight bleed is minimal. I ordered a non perfect pixel monitor from AcessoriesWhole. Overall very happy with my monitor right now.


----------



## borgqueenx

Yeah if those poopers at bigclothcraft dont ship before wednesday i demand my refund and order from accesoireswhole.


----------



## warmchords

Another quick update on my non-PP 27Q from BCC for those who have been ordering from them:

Finally found one dead pixel. I can live with that. Backlight bleed on mine is still minimal-to-nonexistent. It took me a couple of days to see it, but I can now identify a very slight yellow tinge that affects pretty much the entire lower half of the monitor. I know some others have this much worse so I think I can live with it.

Lastly, in regards to the image retention problem I initially reported, I think I can live with it. It hasn't gotten worse by any means and I really can only detect it when I examine it against dark gray -- it's very mild and disappears quickly. I wish I could find more 27Q owners reporting an image-retention problem (or lackthereof) because I have a suspicion that many folks who don't spend a lot of time in Photoshop/Illustrator may have the same problem but will never actually notice it.

Overall I think i got what I paid for -- an A- display at a discounted rate.


----------



## borgqueenx

Bcc got 0,1% less positive feedback. Wich will keep falling if they keep this up.


----------



## kaukau

i ordered a crossover 2720mdp-p from this ****er lightnspace solely because i wanted a model that had multiple inputs including displayport. needless to say i get my monitor and its defective. first thing the hdmi port doesnt exist. on HDMI 2 and HDMI 1 i cant even use (cable doesnt even plug in, broken) it basically doesnt even turn on........it will turn on and then off and wont actually display anything besides a black screen. not only that, there are numerous dead pixels i can see and some kind of blue smudge/mark on the monitor.

never again. i have an apple 27" and next time i will just pay the price for an apple monitor. not worth it to get a broken monitor.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaukau*
> 
> i ordered a crossover 2720mdp-p from this ****er lightnspace solely because i wanted a model that had multiple inputs including displayport. needless to say i get my monitor and its defective. first thing the hdmi port doesnt exist. on HDMI 2 and HDMI 1 i cant even use (cable doesnt even plug in, broken) it basically doesnt even turn on........it will turn on and then off and wont actually display anything besides a black screen. not only that, there are numerous dead pixels i can see and some kind of blue smudge/mark on the monitor.
> never again. i have an apple 27" and next time i will just pay the price for an apple monitor. not worth it to get a broken monitor.


Good luck trying to get a refund from this seller. I have two defective 27Q LED-P from this seller, and can't afford to ship them back for refund, because paypal requires buyers to ship using FEDEX/UPS/DHL or other major shipper that has online signature confirmation, the shipping costs almost as much as the purchase price itself!


----------



## kaukau

i've filed cases on ebay and paypal, did you do that? im really pissed off right now.........how the hell does this dude have a 99.2% feedback score yet everyone is getting broken monitors?im fighting this and will get my bank involved if i have to. theres no way im paying the cost to ship it back when its a defective product.


----------



## Felfe

I just received my CrossOver 27Q LED-P from Red-Cap but I cant get it to display anything but a black screen. It shows up in my windows resolution manager as well as my nVidia control panel and shows the correct resolution. The light on the power brick is a solid green and it appears to be one of the new ones that supports 110-~220V so i just used a regular power cable to plug it in. Has anyone else encountered this before or did I just receive a DOA?


----------



## tr1xst3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Felfe*
> 
> I just received my CrossOver 27Q LED-P from Red-Cap but I cant get it to display anything but a black screen. It shows up in my windows resolution manager as well as my nVidia control panel and shows the correct resolution. The light on the power brick is a solid green and it appears to be one of the new ones that supports 110-~220V so i just used a regular power cable to plug it in. Has anyone else encountered this before or did I just receive a DOA?


Did you properly connect the monitor to a "compatable" dual link DVI video card? Also, are you using the cable provided to you by red-cap?


----------



## Felfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr1xst3r*
> 
> Did you properly connect the monitor to a "compatable" dual link DVI video card? Also, are you using the cable provided to you by red-cap?


Its a 660TI video card so it should be good on that front and I am using the red-cap supplied cable.


----------



## borgqueenx

Hah. Guess what. Bcc send a message saying sorry for trouble and that they will ship today. Well guess who lied again. Seriously bcc lies to their customers, gives false tracking codes, and marks items as shipped while they are not. And it also sucks that upon every reply you send them, they take 24hours to answer.
If i do not get a working tracking code withing 12 hours im demanding a refund and if i need to wait on that i will open a paypal dispute.
This seller needs a miracle if im to leave neutral feedback.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Hah. Guess what. Bcc send a message saying sorry for trouble and that they will ship today. Well guess who lied again. Seriously bcc lies to their customers, gives false tracking codes, and marks items as shipped while they are not. And it also sucks that upon every reply you send them, they take 24hours to answer.
> If i do not get a working tracking code withing 12 hours im demanding a refund and if i need to wait on that i will open a paypal dispute.
> This seller needs a miracle if im to leave neutral feedback.


It's not BCC's fault for the shipping issue. It's FedEx.


----------



## theonedub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> It's not BCC's fault for the shipping issue. It's FedEx.


The seller admits not having a monitor to ship, uses DHL as the carrier, but the fault is on FedEx? LOL.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> It's not BCC's fault for the shipping issue. It's FedEx.


Now youre just being a troll or idiot , sorry.

Anyways some better news: seems ebay marked my package as send as soon as the invoice is printed so this is the fault of ebay and not bcc, that doesnt take away the 3-time promises that my monitor would be shipped.

In other better news: the dhl shipment has been picked up and the code is now activated.
Seems korea shipments do not get initial scans when its electronicly notified for shipment.

I will get it in 3 days probaly, i trust dhl completly they are the best.

Then i hope they didnt select a crap monitor to ship to me in the (maybe) hurry they might have had because my last email was pretty errrm...direct.(do not read offensive) just pointed out that he was dishonest to me.
Il see when it arrives.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Does anyone know how I adjust the height of my 27q led-p? It seems to be stuck... Do I need to untighten the screw on the stand or is that for taking it apart?


----------



## borgqueenx

Yes unscrew that screw a little or completly. The screw on the back of the stand, not on the downside or front if there are screws there.
Then you can adjust height.


----------



## JJ1217

An interesting issue has formed, although it doesn't really impact me.

My panel was flawless with no stuck/dead pixels upon receiving it, and remained that way for a weekish. Yesterday, I noticed while watching a video, that there were numerous stuck pixels on the right side that had come several days after I got the monitor. There are at least 50 stuck pixels. They are not really clustered but they are closeish, and are only like on a certain border of area. Its like this on the top and bottom, but not on the other side.

In total there are maybe around 150 stuck pixels on the top, bottom and side. None are in centre, so it barely affects me. You can only see it on black screens anyways, and even then you would have to be like 10 cm from the screen.

The only thing worrying me is since this issues came up like a week after the monitor came, I am worried about the monitor failing and getting more stuck pixels. I haven't really tried any method to get rid of the stuck pixels. Does anyone have a program to make the screen flash different colours quickly?

Thanks. Again I don't really care but I have time to burn and might as well dull the pixels (Most are bright green)


----------



## borgqueenx

Omg i would return a monitor with over 100 stuck pixels immediatly. A pixel fix app wont work, so many stuck pixels highly likely mean a flawed panel.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> It's not BCC's fault for the shipping issue. It's FedEx.
> 
> 
> 
> Now youre just being a troll or idiot , sorry.
Click to expand...

could be both, lol


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> An interesting issue has formed, although it doesn't really impact me.
> My panel was flawless with no stuck/dead pixels upon receiving it, and remained that way for a weekish. Yesterday, I noticed while watching a video, that there were numerous stuck pixels on the right side that had come several days after I got the monitor. There are at least 50 stuck pixels. They are not really clustered but they are closeish, and are only like on a certain border of area. Its like this on the top and bottom, but not on the other side.
> In total there are maybe around 150 stuck pixels on the top, bottom and side. None are in centre, so it barely affects me. You can only see it on black screens anyways, and even then you would have to be like 10 cm from the screen.
> The only thing worrying me is since this issues came up like a week after the monitor came, I am worried about the monitor failing and getting more stuck pixels. I haven't really tried any method to get rid of the stuck pixels. Does anyone have a program to make the screen flash different colours quickly?
> Thanks. Again I don't really care but I have time to burn and might as well dull the pixels (Most are bright green)


Whom did you buy it from? astroblie/lighnspace had been sending out monitors with high number of stuck green pixels (defective pixels) along the screen edges in recent weeks, mine has over 30 stuck pixels on the right edge. Two 27Q LED-P monitors I got from this seller all have severe backlight bleeds, and these monitors CANNOT PRODUCE BLACK COLOR, ONLY THE DARK GREY! test them yourself, for those who owns these Crossover 27Q monitors, don't take my word for it.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Whom did you buy it from? astroblie/lighnspace had been sending out monitors with high number of stuck green pixels (defective pixels) along the screen edges in recent weeks, mine has over 30 stuck pixels on the right edge. Two 27Q LED-P monitors I got from this seller all have severe backlight bleeds, and these monitors CANNOT PRODUCE BLACK COLOR, ONLY THE DARK GREY! test them yourself, for those who owns these Crossover 27Q monitors, don't take my word for it.


Hmm thats no good for gaming. Anyone confirm or talk about it?


----------



## Legnar

daymn!! i ordered one from astrobile the gangsta niga before i found this thread. Goddam the screen will probably arrive in a plastic shopping bag with no protection all broken and **** with ink coming out of it, when i finally try to plug in my new cracked screen with ink leaks the screen will explode and a ball of fire will hit my hair and im a gonna be a bald for christmas.







but who knows maybe i get a perfect sample D


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legnar*
> 
> daymn!! i ordered one from astrobile the gangsta niga before i found this thread. Goddam the screen will probably arrive in a plastic shopping bag with no protection all broken and **** with ink coming out of it, when i finally try to plug in my new cracked screen with ink leaks the screen will explode and a ball of fire will hit my hair and im a gonna be a bald for christmas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but who knows *maybe i get a perfect sample* D


Nope


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> An interesting issue has formed, although it doesn't really impact me.
> My panel was flawless with no stuck/dead pixels upon receiving it, and remained that way for a weekish. Yesterday, I noticed while watching a video, that there were numerous stuck pixels on the right side that had come several days after I got the monitor. There are at least 50 stuck pixels. They are not really clustered but they are closeish, and are only like on a certain border of area. Its like this on the top and bottom, but not on the other side.
> In total there are maybe around 150 stuck pixels on the top, bottom and side. None are in centre, so it barely affects me. You can only see it on black screens anyways, and even then you would have to be like 10 cm from the screen.
> The only thing worrying me is since this issues came up like a week after the monitor came, I am worried about the monitor failing and getting more stuck pixels. I haven't really tried any method to get rid of the stuck pixels. Does anyone have a program to make the screen flash different colours quickly?
> Thanks. Again I don't really care but I have time to burn and might as well dull the pixels (Most are bright green)


Try touching the pixels with finger, sometimes it fixes them.


----------



## drserk

hi i want to buy 1440p crossover monitor and which monitor will you advice? i dont want any option like sound, hdmi on monitor..only i want high brightnes like 420 cd/m2, led and low response rate.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> hi i want to buy 1440p crossover monitor and which monitor will you advice? i dont want any option like sound, hdmi on monitor..only i want high brightnes like 420 cd/m2, led and low response rate.


Why would you want 420, did you ever see it? My Dell has max 350 and at 90 brightness it's like sun and my eyes hurt.


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Why would you want 420, did you ever see it? My Dell has max 350 and at 90 brightness it's like sun and my eyes hurt.


i know that higher value is better for games, films. am i wrong?


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> i know that higher value is better for games, films. am i wrong?


Higher value is just how bright it can get, it doesn't make it any better or worse for games/films. Unless you are viewing the screen in the middle of the desert outside, I wouldn't worry about it much.


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Higher value is just how bright it can get, it doesn't make it any better or worse for games/films. Unless you are viewing the screen in the middle of the desert outside, I wouldn't worry about it much.


thnx and so what is your suggestion about which crossover? 27q led or 2730 or 2720 models? and i dont want to spend more than 450 usd in ebay


----------



## nau310d

I ordered and paid on the 11th from BCC. He said he would ship after 1-3 days. So far he hasn't shipped anything.

I will wait for a couple more days then ask for a refund and buy from accessorieswhole.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nau310d*
> 
> I ordered and paid on the 11th from BCC. He said he would ship after 1-3 days. So far he hasn't shipped anything.
> I will wait for a couple more days then ask for a refund and buy from accessorieswhole.


I ordered 1 day before you and it got shipped today.
So maybe your turn is tommorow. Giving them a reminder with a message helps.
Just state the hard facts that you already wait long.
I probaly receive my crossover led-p thursday.


----------



## borgqueenx

Now playing far cry 3 on highest on 1080x1200 @30fps. How much would that drop on 2560x1440?^^


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Now playing far cry 3 on highest on 1080x1200 @30fps. How much would that drop on 2560x1440?^^


i think it wil be about %30-40


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> i know that higher value is better for games, films. am i wrong?


Yes, the higher the brightness, the higher the black level. Most non VA panels (IPS/PLS and TN) will display blacks as dark greys when set above 200 nits, the higher the brightness gets, the greyer the blacks get and the more washed out dark details will become.

This is why most reviewers use 120-140 nits for brightness to ensure deep blacks....and you will probably strain your eyes if you keep the brightness cranked.


----------



## drserk

Tnx a lot.. now it seems i will buy 27QD LED..But perfect pixel one is too expensive..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120972653693?redirect=mobile and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-Blade-2560x1440-DVI-D-LG-S-IPS-27-Perfect-Pixel-Monitor-/120984272351?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2b397ddf


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> i think it wil be about %30-40


You will get like 5-10 fps in there...


----------



## Multivac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nau310d*
> 
> I ordered and paid on the 11th from BCC. He said he would ship after 1-3 days. So far he hasn't shipped anything.
> I will wait for a couple more days then ask for a refund and buy from accessorieswhole.


I'm in the same boat as you. I ordered on the 12th, and nothing so far. I sent an email yesterday, early on in the day (South Korean time), and am hoping for a response soon. I went with BCC because of all the good word of mouth


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Playing 1080p on these monitors is basically the same quality as playing 1440p in game, for anyone who was wondering. i was quite concerned about this before I got my my monitor, but I honestly cant even tell that much of a difference between quality.


----------



## tr1xst3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> Tnx a lot.. now it seems i will buy 27QD LED..But perfect pixel one is too expensive..
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/120972653693?redirect=mobile and
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-Blade-2560x1440-DVI-D-LG-S-IPS-27-Perfect-Pixel-Monitor-/120984272351?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2b397ddf


I ordered:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120972653693?redirect=mobile

Ordered it Sunday and it came today (tuesday) via FedEx express. Friggin quick as I am in Ontario, Canada.


----------



## Legnar

ok so this astrobil dude only sells broken monitors, are you guys sure about this. Cause that seems very unlikely. Maybe he just doesnt check the monitor before he ships it?


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legnar*
> 
> Maybe he just doesnt check the monitor before he ships it?


Wake up my friend! When in this age of time a factory sealed monitor needs to be "checked" by a retailer before shipping it out? All of this crap is a scam! These Korean sellers simply bought factory rejected junks and sell them to people who are happy to accept monitors with 10s to 100s to stuck pixels, severe backlight bleeds, severe tint/coloration, poor uniformity, missing input ports, flickers, burnt-out pcb boards, severe ghosting, missing cables, etc. etc. etc., just go back and read all these defects reported by members in last 30 days, and even a ****** will be able to see what really is going on!

But, you will also see how many people here willingly accept the defects and praising the sellers who sold them the defected monitors, this is the most bizarre consumer behavior I had ever witnessed, completely irrational and mind-boggling.


----------



## Legnar

50 dead pixels on a 1440p screen doesnt seem like a big deal to me, i currently own a benq ****ty ass monitor with colors so washed out its not even fun to game on.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Wake up my friend! When in this age of time a factory sealed monitor needs to be "checked" by a retailer before shipping it out? All of this crap is a scam! These Korean sellers simply bought factory rejected junks and sell them to people who are happy to accept monitors with 10s to 100s to stuck pixels, severe backlight bleeds, severe tint/coloration, poor uniformity, missing input ports, flickers, burnt-out pcb boards, severe ghosting, missing cables, etc. etc. etc., just go back and read all these defects reported by members in last 30 days, and even a ****** will be able to see what really is going on!
> But, you will also see how many people here willingly accept the defects and praising the sellers who sold them the defected monitors, this is the most bizarre consumer behavior I had ever witnessed, completely irrational and mind-boggling.


Stop generalizing. I bought my monitor from a korean seller, as a non- pixel perfect, and got a pixel perfect monitor.

edit: have you even purchased one of these monitors? Or are you just mindlessly ranting on about second hand information?


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> Stop generalizing. I bought my monitor from a korean seller, as a non- pixel perfect, and got a pixel perfect monitor.
> edit: have you even purchased one of these monitors? Or are you just mindlessly ranting on about second hand information?


I purchased 2 just little over two weeks ago.

"mindlessly ranting on about second hand information" sounds like something you would do very well, and that is "specific", not generalization, that would fit you like a pair of tailor-fit gloves


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legnar*
> 
> 50 dead pixels on a 1440p screen doesnt seem like a big deal to me, i currently own a benq ****ty ass monitor with colors so washed out its not even fun to game on.


Benq monitors are known for poor image quality and color accuracy.

Happened to me when I bought a crappy Benq XL2410T. It came with dead pixels, ridiculous backlight bleeding and poor color accuracy. Eventually exchanged it for the Samsung S23A950D which I still use for gaming and is tons better than the Benq.

Never buying a Benq monitor again.


----------



## kimba934

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> monitors with 10s to 100s to stuck pixels, severe backlight bleeds, severe tint/coloration, poor uniformity, missing input ports, flickers, burnt-out pcb boards, severe ghosting, missing cables, etc. etc. etc., j


My monitor has none of the above issues, except the screen is a little bit yellow tint, but it may be my room ambient light. May be you are unlucky that you received a bad batch of monitors. As others have said, you get what you paid for, A- panel for a discounted price. I just hope my monitor last a few years.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Wake up my friend! When in this age of time a factory sealed monitor needs to be "checked" by a retailer before shipping it out? All of this crap is a scam! These Korean sellers simply bought factory rejected junks and sell them to people who are happy to accept monitors with 10s to 100s to stuck pixels, severe backlight bleeds, severe tint/coloration, poor uniformity, missing input ports, flickers, burnt-out pcb boards, severe ghosting, missing cables, etc. etc. etc., just go back and read all these defects reported by members in last 30 days, and even a ****** will be able to see what really is going on!
> But, you will also see how many people here willingly accept the defects and praising the sellers who sold them the defected monitors, this is the most bizarre consumer behavior I had ever witnessed, completely irrational and mind-boggling.


I do believe the manufactor tests them... And maybe on different levels. For example astromobile probalt tells them to skip testing because they need to pay more. Bcc and accessorieswhole tell crossover to only send quality monitors.
Im not willingly to accept those issueses you described. Thats the reason i purchased at BCC. You didnt.


----------



## nau310d

BCC finally shipped it after 8 days now. He apologized and shipped it. Let's see what state the monitor is in when arriving.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nau310d*
> 
> BCC finally shipped it after 8 days now. He apologized and shipped it. Let's see what state the monitor is in when arriving.


Let us know!







i will probaly get it tommorow, my monitor is currently on the plane.
You could get it faster it you asked to skip testings. So do think someone tests these monitors.


----------



## nau310d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Let us know!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will probaly get it tommorow, my monitor is currently on the plane.
> You could get it faster it you asked to skip testings. So do think someone tests these monitors.


Well thats what he told me, so I hope he tested them. I did ask him, so lets see what he replies.


----------



## Midnight77

Just recieved a 27Q-LED P from redhat. Didn't go perfect pixel, and I'm glad I didn't Took 10 minutes to find the only dead pixel on the screen, roughly 1 mm from the bezel on the left side, about 1/5 of the way up the monitor. Zero backlight bleed as well. The screen tilt is perfect, completely level in both landscape and portrait mode. Also, the back of the display was black rather than the glossy white.

Overall, I'm very satisfied. The display actually looks considerably better than my father's Cinema Display mac after messing around with the color settings. Shipping was surprisingly fast as well. Arrived two days after it was marked as being shipped from Korea according to the tracking number.


----------



## borgqueenx

Thats good to hear because it seems more bad products are given out lately.
I still think mine arrives tommorow.


----------



## drserk

today i order one of 27QD Crossover from seller ''accessorieswhole''... so i am waiting monitor. ithink it will come Turkey in 5 days..

link is; http://www.ebay.com/itm/120972653693?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Thats the reason i purchased at BCC. You didnt.


Alright, you won the medal! Why people here like to put others down, blame them, when they should be critically think about the facts and not the stupid "you did this and that wrong, you are just unlucky, we told you so, blah, blah, blah", you are sick!

and then again, you could be just a 17 years old kid, so I forgive you.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> Alright, you won the medal! Why people here like to put others down, blame them, when they should be critically think about the facts and not the stupid "you did this and that wrong, you are just unlucky, we told you so, blah, blah, blah", you are sick!


Sure people receive good ones from other sellers too.
But if you readed this topic before you bought you would know where to buy and then you were kinda stopid to buy at sellers with no good forum talk.
If you didnt read before you buy then im not saying you did anything wrong.


----------



## Descadent

this thread is becoming pollutant


----------



## tr1xst3r

So i received my 27q from Accessorieswhole and it came in a brown box instead of the 27q box. Anyone else have theirs come in a brown box instead of the crossover box?


----------



## tr1xst3r

Nevermind it was a box in a box.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr1xst3r*
> 
> So i received my 27q from Accessorieswhole and it came in a brown box instead of the 27q box. Anyone else have theirs come in a brown box instead of the crossover box?


well, tell us your impressions


----------



## borgqueenx

also, has some people been managed to overclock this monitor a bit? 70hz or 75hz for example? every bit is nice!

and if yes how? nvidia custom resolution or something?


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> also, has some people been managed to overclock this monitor a bit? 70hz or 75hz for example? every bit is nice!
> and if yes how? nvidia custom resolution or something?


66hz seems to be what people are able to get usually.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> 66hz seems to be what people are able to get usually.


hmm not really noticable i guess.
and how did they get it?


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> hmm not really noticable i guess.
> and how did they get it?


Same way with the ones you could overclock to 120hz. I don't remember the exact process but it's pretty simple. I think you just install something and then change the Hz in nvidia control panel or whatever.


----------



## importflip

You can try setting a custom resolution with custom refresh rate in Nvidia Control Panel. I don't know how AMD users would have to go about it.


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> also, has some people been managed to overclock this monitor a bit? 70hz or 75hz for example? every bit is nice!
> and if yes how? nvidia custom resolution or something?


None of this monitors can be "really" overclocked. As stated before, even when overclocked, the real frequency is still of 60Hz. The logic board in overclocked monitors can accept, for exaple, 90Hz, but when the signal arrives to the panel, the panel ranmit "only" 60Hz.

This was just a summary, you can read a more detailed explanation in previous comments


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zonzo3*
> 
> None of this monitors can be "really" overclocked. As stated before, even when overclocked, the real frequency is still of 60Hz. The logic board in overclocked monitors can accept, for exaple, 90Hz, but when the signal arrives to the panel, the panel ranmit "only" 60Hz.
> This was just a summary, you can read a more detailed explanation in previous comments


there is no work-around for this problem by using a soldering iron or something?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> there is no work-around for this problem by using a soldering iron or something?


There is a physical cable difference between the overclockable versions and the non-overclockable versions. Think of it this way as a metaphor; the non-overclockable versions use "single link DVI" to drive the panel, whereas the overclockable ones use "dual link DVI". The 66 hz limit is the limit of single link DVI - to go higher, you need to go dual link DVI.

In reality, the overclockable monitors use 2 LVDS links to drive the monitor from the control panel - this gives the monitor enough bandwidth to drive [email protected] The newer ones use a single eDP connection - hence the cap of 66hz. That is the limit of the eDP connection within the monitor itself.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> There is a physical cable difference between the overclockable versions and the non-overclockable versions. Think of it this way as a metaphor; the non-overclockable versions use "single link DVI" to drive the panel, whereas the overclockable ones use "dual link DVI". The 66 hz limit is the limit of single link DVI - to go higher, you need to go dual link DVI.
> In reality, the overclockable monitors use 2 LVDS links to drive the monitor from the control panel - this gives the monitor enough bandwidth to drive [email protected] The newer ones use a single eDP connection - hence the cap of 66hz. That is the limit of the eDP connection within the monitor itself.


whats LVDS? the one i bought has a dual link dvi. is it possible to scale down resolution then and get more hz?


----------



## zonzo3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> There is a physical cable difference between the overclockable versions and the non-overclockable versions. Think of it this way as a metaphor; the non-overclockable versions use "single link DVI" to drive the panel, whereas the overclockable ones use "dual link DVI". The 66 hz limit is the limit of single link DVI - to go higher, you need to go dual link DVI.
> In reality, the overclockable monitors use 2 LVDS links to drive the monitor from the control panel - this gives the monitor enough bandwidth to drive [email protected] The newer ones use a single eDP connection - hence the cap of 66hz. That is the limit of the eDP connection within the monitor itself.


Quoting:
Quote:


> This monitor uses the same multi-input board as the Witech Multi Limited Edition, and a monitor pulled before release from Achieva Shimian, and one released by First Semiconductor (I have a prototype of it). The reason for that is the 125hz operation is bogus. The dvi controller board allows an input of up to 125hz. So your computer will say "Heya. I'm sending 125hz (or 130hz, in my case) to your monitor! All is well!". The monitor is saying "Oh sweet! A 125hz input! I can totally take that! Thank you!." Then it tries to pass it to the Timing controller attached to the LCD panel and the monitor is like "Hey...TCON...buddy, I got 125 of these frames for you. What??? What do you mean you can only accept 60 from me? Fine...I'll send you frame 1, 3, 5, 8, 10, 12, 15, etc...."
> 
> Basically...it frame skips. If it will accept an input higher than 60hz. The OSD will tell you that it's outputting 125hz. But it only ever sends a 60hz signal to the LCD panel itself. Sorry to burst your bubble.


----------



## borgqueenx

so the limit is 66hz or 66hz before it starts frame skipping?
im kinda confused now.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> so the limit is 66hz or 66hz before it starts frame skipping?
> im kinda confused now.


It does one OR the other. Either it frame skips and is locked to 60hz by the controller board, or it doesn't frame skip, and is limited to 66hz by the eDP connection.

Typically what we've seen is ones with scalars and add-in boards and multiple inputs frame skip, whereas single input ones do not, but are limited to 66hz.

LVDS stands for low-voltage differential signalling. It's not something you can see in practise. It's used primarily inside the monitor itself to connect the input electronics to the LCD itself.


----------



## borgqueenx

ok well 66hz is better then 60hz lol!
although the difference wont be much i guess.

Plus to make that amount of hz usable, the graphics card would need 66fps right?
and vsync needs to be enabled to see the 6hz difference?


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> ok well 66hz is better then 60hz lol!
> although the difference wont be much i guess.
> Plus to make that amount of hz usable, the graphics card would need 66fps right?
> and vsync needs to be enabled to see the 6hz difference?


Graphics card needs to be putting out 66fps (or more), but you do not need vsync.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> ok well 66hz is better then 60hz lol!
> although the difference wont be much i guess.
> Plus to make that amount of hz usable, the graphics card would need 66fps right?
> and vsync needs to be enabled to see the 6hz difference?


You should be able to make use of it without any special methods other than just setting it up.

Mind you, 66hz will introduce much more judder into videos and movies, so use it at your own risk. 60hz is nice since it fits 30 fps and 60fps video sources well, and can make use of 3:2 pulldown for 24fps video (movies). In this case, more is not better. In games, you'll get a little bit better fps at least.


----------



## nova88

Received a q27-led today. It worked for an hour then went blank. Opened it up and tested cable connections 3 times but still no picture. Windows recognizes it still and the backlight is on with the blue button showing it has a signal but all I get is a backlit blank screen. PCB is revision 02. Unless someone can help me magically fix this i'm going to try for a refund. These just aren't worth the risk.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nova88*
> 
> Received a q27-led today. It worked for an hour then went blank. Opened it up and tested cable connections 3 times but still no picture. Windows recognizes it still and the backlight is on with the blue button showing it has a signal but all I get is a backlit blank screen. PCB is revision 02. Unless someone can help me magically fix this i'm going to try for a refund. These just aren't worth the risk.


they are if you order from best sellers..like accessorieswhole who pays for all the shipping and sells the best panels.


----------



## Legnar

to the folks who ordered from astrobile and got a "broken" monitor, did you get the 27q pivot model, cause thats the one i ordered....


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legnar*
> 
> to the folks who ordered from astrobile and got a "broken" monitor, did you get the 27q pivot model, cause thats the one i ordered....


Best of luck to ya...


----------



## tr1xst3r

Just wanted to post, I ordered from "Accessorieswhole" and got my monitor today.

A+ to him, and I will post a video with me opening the box.

I have literally 2 dead pixels, one in the very right corner and one in the very left corner (both are extremely small and cannot be seen unless my face is literally right up on the monitor).

Amazing...


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nova88*
> 
> Received a q27-led today. It worked for an hour then went blank. Opened it up and tested cable connections 3 times but still no picture. Windows recognizes it still and the backlight is on with the blue button showing it has a signal but all I get is a backlit blank screen. PCB is revision 02. Unless someone can help me magically fix this i'm going to try for a refund. These just aren't worth the risk.


Hmm from what seller did your monitor come from?
I would try a other cable though...ask someone for it to borrow.

My monitor from bcc is just to late for delivery this morning. It will be delivered in 4-9 hours.


----------



## borgqueenx

Received my crossover. before i want to say anything, i would like to know how to use a different resolution. In far cry 3 i cant set a different resolution. In Crysis Warhead i can, but then i see a part full screen crysis warhead and a part windows.
how can i get 1080p full screen on this monitor?
someone said its possible but i have no idea how. 2560x1440 gets me a FPS that isnt really playable








i have a GTX660.

edit: i have seen its possible to do in windows display settings now. but how to do it in a game? is there software that can make me chance resolutions in game?


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Received my crossover. before i want to say anything, i would like to know how to use a different resolution. In far cry 3 i cant set a different resolution. In Crysis Warhead i can, but then i see a part full screen crysis warhead and a part windows.
> how can i get 1080p full screen on this monitor?
> someone said its possible but i have no idea how. 2560x1440 gets me a FPS that isnt really playable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have a GTX660.
> edit: i have seen its possible to do in windows display settings now. but how to do it in a game? is there software that can make me chance resolutions in game?


You can try SoftTH.

I would like to play some games with 1080p full screen too. Is it possible?


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> You can try SoftTH.
> I would like to play some games with 1080p full screen too. Is it possible?


yep its possible. i will post first impressions in about 30minutes.


----------



## borgqueenx

ok so i got my crossover led-p from bigclothcraft today.

i have no idea why this monitor has a screw on the back.... i removed the screw and dont intent to put it back in again. i can adjust height, tilt and angle perfectly without any problem.
The weight of this monitor is quite alot. it looks sturdy, good build and solid. (but the weight is a problem if i need to send this monitor back)

Here is a picture of the box after i removed the bubble foil around the box. (those purple things are damage to my iphone's camera.
http://d.pr/i/A4BJ
See that sticker on the side of the box....."zero dead pixel". i ordered a normal version, not a perfect pixel version.
So i thought hmmm i had trouble with communication with this seller maybe they shipped a pixel perfect version instead.

And yeah after plugging in the monitor i checked about 5 minutes for dead pixels on a full green blue and red screen, and i could not find dead or stuck pixels. But i had done my research and know that these A- panels must have a other problem then. so i tested them on backlight bleed by making the screen black and brightness all up. Unfortunatly there is indeed some light bleed. its quite bad when viewed at a black background, but i really tried to search for it while normal windows use and couldnt see it at all.
http://d.pr/i/PmAB
(again, the purple stuff is damage of my iphone camera and that white dot is my mouse pointer)
So yeah, light bleeding, but i dont give a poop since its only noticable for me at a black screen.

first games i had problems using the resolution for some reason when i restarted some games i could select resolutions again. Works fine now to select 1080p................but you will not do that. you will put other graphics down but keep the resolution. for example in far cry 3 with 2x AA and this resolution i do not see aliasing anymore. everything is 100% smooth edged and it looks awesome.

a minor thing i do not like is the screen is a dust magnet. there is no dust behind the screen, but there is on the screen. while checking dead pixels i keep seeing small dots where i thought it maybe was a pixel, but its all dust gathering on the screen. i hope this ends soon....its probaly because its new tech....new tech usally collects dust.

The colors on this display are not really better then the dell 2408WFP i had before borrowed from my brother. maybe by a small amount but definatly not much. The brightness of this display goes good enough. but well the 2408wfp was also praised for its colors for a 800 euro monitor that day so this is pretty good news that colors are comparable.
i also have the feeling blacks are on desame level as the wfp....wich means i cant tell anything about how deep the black goes. its desame as im used to.

All in all im very happy with this purchase. it works (right now) and hope it stays working. the last 2 days i got in contact with a leo from BCC. i recommend to ask in your ebay message for leo. the guy is much more helpful then other people at that company.
It began with a bad story, people lieing to me about shipping.
But this turned out to be a good purchase(so far, i have no idea how long it will last, but the outside quality doesnt say it falls apart quickly!)

If you ask for a leo at BCC, i also recommend you to purchase this monitor.

And about customs tax, be careful in the netherlands with values. they quickly think 27inch must be at least worth 400usd here. i purchased it and it was valued at 116dollar not including shipping and dhl told me i had to pay 74,13 euro. thats not 21% of what i had to pay!!! so they wanted more then 21% tax!
But.....someone at DHL(gotta love them) screwed up....at the door i had to sign that i received it and then the driver quickly stepped back into his car and drove away.....Nothing about paying something! So i keep that 74 euro while 2 people at dhl confirmed i had to pay it today! dont expect yourself to be so lucky though!

Im very pleased today with this beauty of a monitor. go get one!(read: to get one at BCC or AW)


----------



## tr1xst3r

Unboxing


----------



## pgriffith

Hi All

Calling out to the 2720MD owners out there.

I need to connect this to my 6990 via Display Port as I plan to get a 2nd one at some point and the 6990 comes with 1 x DL-DVI and 4 x Mini Display Ports. The DP-DVI Adapters are only SL-DVI so DP is the logical way to go.

Question is, any issues with DP at all. I understand the 2720's have a bit more input lag the 27Q's. Has anyone noticed it ?

Cheers


----------



## borgqueenx

also i'd like to add that i didnt feel the need to chance color profiles. alot of persons said it was needed because a yellow or blue tint....well i do not see those tints.
colors are even everywhere and nice balanced.


----------



## bigmike7

Yo-

My continuing saga with *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* regarding my *DEAD Crossover 27Q Monitor*.

It has been two weeks since my monitor suddenly died after having it for almost seven months.
Communication with *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* is now me sending five emails through eBay and him sending two and still nothing resolved.
The last communication from *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* wanted me to open up the monitor and test the pcboards. I have assured them that this monitor is DEAD.
*ACCESSORIESWHOLE* very obviously wants to sell you a monitor and ignore you when something happens.

For those of you that think that Square Trade warranty protects you while the monitor is in the first warranty year - based on my experience of trying to file a claim with them - they have said that I have to get the monitor repaired by *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* and that their warranty doesn't start until the second year.

@Koehler - *DOA* means *D*ead *O*n *A*rrival - meaning when you first take a product out of the box and it doesn't work. So before you go around flipping out your misguided views - get your terminology correct before being critical.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> My continuing saga with *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* regarding my *DEAD Crossover 27Q Monitor*.
> It has been two weeks since my monitor suddenly died after having it for almost seven months.
> Communication with *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* is now me sending five emails through eBay and him sending two and still nothing resolved.
> The last communication from *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* wanted me to open up the monitor and test the pcboards. I have assured them that this monitor is DEAD.
> *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* very obviously wants to sell you a monitor and ignore you when something happens.
> For those of you that think that Square Trade warranty protects you while the monitor is in the first warranty year - based on my experience of trying to file a claim with them - they have said that I have to get the monitor repaired by *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* and that their warranty doesn't start until the second year.
> @Koehler - *DOA* means *D*ead *O*n *A*rrival - meaning when you first take a product out of the box and it doesn't work. So before you go around flipping out your misguided views - get your terminology correct before being critical.


Like we've told you before, AW made a perfectly reasonable request and you need to follow it if you want to RMA.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Yo-
> My continuing saga with *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* regarding my *DEAD Crossover 27Q Monitor*.
> It has been two weeks since my monitor suddenly died after having it for almost seven months.
> Communication with *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* is now me sending five emails through eBay and him sending two and still nothing resolved.
> The last communication from *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* wanted me to open up the monitor and test the pcboards. I have assured them that this monitor is DEAD.
> *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* very obviously wants to sell you a monitor and ignore you when something happens.
> For those of you that think that Square Trade warranty protects you while the monitor is in the first warranty year - based on my experience of trying to file a claim with them - they have said that I have to get the monitor repaired by *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* and that their warranty doesn't start until the second year.
> @Koehler - *DOA* means *D*ead *O*n *A*rrival - meaning when you first take a product out of the box and it doesn't work. So before you go around flipping out your misguided views - get your terminology correct before being critical.


check revisions of your boards and ask for replacement boards. not expensive, easily replaced...
Every ebay seller doesnt like warrenty.
i also think BCC wont give me warrenty if it comes to that time.

and i agree with the person above me.
just do as he asks and be done with it. this way he can be sure of his own things he wants to check.


----------



## m625

Hey guys, just got mine, can't seem to get any image to show on mine. Tried both dvi ports on my 670 using the included cable, backlight tuns on, windows recognizes it but no picture. Going to go grab another dvi cable later today and see if it's just a bad cable hopefully.


----------



## Jedi21

Hi everyone!

Since price difference between 27 and 30 is getting very low, can anyone tell me if qualitywise they are pretty similar?

By the little I know, 30 come in TFT and CCFL version, what would you suggest?

Also, is any glossy version available?

Thanks


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi21*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> Since price difference between 27 and 30 is getting very low, can anyone tell me if qualitywise they are pretty similar?
> By the little I know, 30 come in TFT and CCFL version, what would you suggest?
> Also, is any glossy version available?
> Thanks


they are almost all glossy.


----------



## Jedi21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> they are almost all glossy.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1316035/crossover-30q5-pro-thread

Crossover 30Q5 Pro is matte.. The search continues









Also, any feedback on the AG coating? Hope isn't U2711-like lol


----------



## Cloudz00x

I answered your PM Jedi.

On other news:
I miss AW, PP 27Q LED-P monitors. They need to restock them asap.!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> also i'd like to add that i didnt feel the need to chance color profiles. alot of persons said it was needed because a yellow or blue tint....well i do not see those tints.
> colors are even everywhere and nice balanced.


The color profile used on the 27q is exactly the same as the Samsung and thunderbolts. I've already checked. You can DL the thunderbolt profile from my review so you can have a backup. Also try the 6500k 2.2 gamma profile. I've lost count on how many people have thanked me for that profile. I did have a few who just didn't like it but there used to the High Bright calibrated colors. These are more warm calibrated colors to match real color precision.

Finally caught up with this thread.
*User33 - still ranting on as usual. ( All New comers just ignore him he bought from a unknown seller when we clearly stated who to buy from and now is putting his disbelief's into others. I personally bought from AW 3x 27Q LED-P PP Monitors and they all came out as promised and his service is outstanding)

*BigMike7 - His issues stems from him not listening to AW. Was requested to test everything on the monitor so AW can hopefully replace the part that's causing the problem instead of doing a complete replacement. Saves time and money for both parties. He obviously doesn't know how to follow instructions

That's all I can see. Glad that everyone is enjoying there CrossOver's!


----------



## m625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m625*
> 
> Hey guys, just got mine, can't seem to get any image to show on mine. Tried both dvi ports on my 670 using the included cable, backlight tuns on, windows recognizes it but no picture. Going to go grab another dvi cable later today and see if it's just a bad cable hopefully.


Anyone had this issue and it be fixed? Would really suck if this thing is DOA, especially since it would mean my "pixel perfect" monitor was never tested or even looked at before they sent it to me.


----------



## borgqueenx

a update on the light bleeding. the light bleeding is actually everywhere. When i move my head thus the viewing angle i can see light bleeding from every corner.
but it IS stronger and worser on the corner right.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi21*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1316035/crossover-30q5-pro-thread
> Crossover 30Q5 Pro is matte.. The search continues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, any feedback on the AG coating? Hope isn't U2711-like lol


All 30" and 24" 16:10 IPS use the same coating as the U2711, as do almost all 21.5-24" 16:9 IPS. If you want a non-grainy matte high res display you have to get a PLS panel (Asus PB278Q, Samsung S27A850D, ViewSonic VP2770). The Dell U2713 uses the same coating as the PLS displays but tons of people have reported weird cross-hatching issues.


----------



## borgqueenx

thanks i successfully applied your profile.
i have no idea if my eyes get used to it or not but sometimes i like your profile and if i have the other one applied for a while again then and i try the other one it feels wrong again

what did you chance in the color profile? added more red removed a bit of green?
EDIT: i think you did, messed more with it applying the color profile and disabling it alot of times with different photos.
Your profile is indeed better! thanks! The normal profile is a bit greenie it seems.


----------



## m625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m625*
> 
> Anyone had this issue and it be fixed? Would really suck if this thing is DOA, especially since it would mean my "pixel perfect" monitor was never tested or even looked at before they sent it to me.


New Dual Link DVI cable no change. Sucks. And it's not the issue people were having where the led turns blue then goes back to red, mine stays blue and just doesn't display anything.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m625*
> 
> New Dual Link DVI cable no change. Sucks. And it's not the issue people were having where the led turns blue then goes back to red, mine stays blue and just doesn't display anything.


Return it i'd say. When it doesnt get a signal it indeed turns blue when put on but immediatly turns red. So if it says blue it does know its getting a signal,
You can also try to get a free board replacement- high chance this will fix your issueses.


----------



## m625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> Return it i'd say. When it doesnt get a signal it indeed turns blue when put on but immediatly turns red. So if it says blue it does know its getting a signal,
> You can also try to get a free board replacement- high chance this will fix your issueses.


Ya that's what I was worried about. Just sucks because I ordered a pixel perfect version and this basically is proof that they obviously aren't really checking these monitors for pixel issues at all.


----------



## borgqueenx

Maybe the panels get inspected not the boards put into them.
I would ask for replacement boards. Fixed people's problems before.
Its not much dollars but not sure exact amount. Ask your seller.


----------



## nova88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m625*
> 
> Hey guys, just got mine, can't seem to get any image to show on mine. Tried both dvi ports on my 670 using the included cable, backlight tuns on, windows recognizes it but no picture. Going to go grab another dvi cable later today and see if it's just a bad cable hopefully.


I got one this week and had the same thing happen. Tried a new cable, updated drivers, and took the thing apart 3 separate times to check wiring to no avail. Not only did mine go out after an hour but on closer examination I had dozens and dozens of dead/stuck pixels (tons of stuck green pixels along the right edge) along with rather distracting backlight bleed in the lower right corner.

Edit: For people wondering, I got mine from big cloth craft. Although the monitor did not turn out well, so far his response/customer service has been very good and he pays return shipping for DOA.


----------



## m625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nova88*
> 
> I got one this week and had the same thing happen. Tried a new cable, updated drivers, and took the thing apart 3 separate times to check wiring to no avail. Not only did mine go out after an hour but on closer examination I had dozens and dozens of dead/stuck pixels (tons of stuck green pixels along the right edge) along with rather distracting backlight bleed in the lower right corner.
> Edit: For people wondering, I got mine from big cloth craft. Although the monitor did not turn out well, so far his response/customer service has been very good and he pays return shipping for DOA.


I'm waiting on the seller to respond to me. I'm going to be pissed about shipping if they don't cover it, and from what I understand it's pretty common that they don't. :|


----------



## Descadent

Here is something I made quickly just as sort of an overview and just 7680x1440 on bf3. I was getting between 52-57 fps during this short demo.

enjoy and remember to play it in 1080p!


----------



## tr1xst3r

^ looks good dude.


----------



## tr1xst3r

How exactly do I use the colour calibration profile that was listed earlier?

I really also think that my greens are also a bit too bright.

Thanks!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> thanks i successfully applied your profile.
> i have no idea if my eyes get used to it or not but sometimes i like your profile and if i have the other one applied for a while again then and i try the other one it feels wrong again
> what did you chance in the color profile? added more red removed a bit of green?
> EDIT: i think you did, messed more with it applying the color profile and disabling it alot of times with different photos.
> Your profile is indeed better! thanks! The normal profile is a bit greenie it seems.


No prob glad you liked it


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr1xst3r*
> 
> How exactly do I use the colour calibration profile that was listed earlier?
> I really also think that my greens are also a bit too bright.
> Thanks!


Google " How to apply Color profile to windows 7"
Also click the link in my color profile section of the review to show you how to not lose the profile when rebooting.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Here is something I made quickly just as sort of an overview and just 7680x1440 on bf3. I was getting between 52-57 fps during this short demo.
> enjoy and remember to play it in 1080p!


Ah beat me to it bro. Im still waiting on my rig to be finished. Can''t wait to try 4x gtx classifieds and 3930k OC'd on my tri crossover setup.


----------



## bigmike7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Like we've told you before, AW made a perfectly reasonable request and you need to follow it if you want to RMA.


Sir-

I'm sorry - but I don't see _ANYTHING_ "perfectly reasonable" about tearing the monitor apart and making the repairs myself. If I had known that _PRIOR_ to purchasing the 27Q - I would have _NEVER_ bought it. If I had known that *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* was going to not communicate with me after the sale - I would have _NEVER_ bought from them.

Since this is a forum - its intent is for the members to share experiences - get help from others and help others with their purchasing decisions. All I'm attempting to do is expose the potential pitfalls of buying a monitor from a vendor in Korea. I am out $425 at the moment and many people may not be able to afford this large an expense for something that is notoriously _FAILING_ in actual use.

My personal solution to the problem was to purchase a *Dell S2740L* from Costco for $300 with a three year Advance Shipment warranty. And even though the Dell is a 27 inch monitor with 1920 x 1080 resolution - it actually has a *superior* looking display than the *Crossover 27Q*.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Sir-
> I'm sorry - but I don't see _ANYTHING_ "perfectly reasonable" about tearing the monitor apart and making the repairs myself. If I had known that _PRIOR_ to purchasing the 27Q - I would have _NEVER_ bought it. If I had known that *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* was going to not communicate with me after the sale - I would have _NEVER_ bought from them.
> Since this is a forum - its intent is for the members to share experiences - get help from others and help others with their purchasing decisions. All I'm attempting to do is expose the potential pitfalls of buying a monitor from a vendor in Korea. I am out $425 at the moment and many people may not be able to afford this large an expense for something that is notoriously _FAILING_ in actual use.
> My personal solution to the problem was to purchase a *Dell S2740L* from Costco for $300 with a three year Advance Shipment warranty. And even though the Dell is a 27 inch monitor with 1980 x 1040 resolution - it actually has a *superior* looking display than the *Crossover 27Q*.


Useless to discuss with you.
Go try to return it for a refund.
And its bull**** that the cheap dell looks better. Ive seen numerous displays now and my crossover is the best.
Skip the troll people.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Sir-
> I'm sorry - but I don't see _ANYTHING_ "perfectly reasonable" about tearing the monitor apart and making the repairs myself. If I had known that _PRIOR_ to purchasing the 27Q - I would have _NEVER_ bought it. If I had known that *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* was going to not communicate with me after the sale - I would have _NEVER_ bought from them.
> Since this is a forum - its intent is for the members to share experiences - get help from others and help others with their purchasing decisions. All I'm attempting to do is expose the potential pitfalls of buying a monitor from a vendor in Korea. I am out $425 at the moment and many people may not be able to afford this large an expense for something that is notoriously _FAILING_ in actual use.
> My personal solution to the problem was to purchase a *Dell S2740L* from Costco for $300 with a three year Advance Shipment warranty. And even though the Dell is a 27 inch monitor with 1980 x 1040 resolution - it actually has a *superior* looking display than the *Crossover 27Q*.


sounds like you are the only one ever with an issue with AW. and dell with a 1980x1040 res? what is that? and looks better...









plus AW is in this thread. they see what you are saying, take a chill and get the problem solved with them in an adult manner. You have to do your part too when we are talking about a transaction that's so far away. Our experiences and their ebay feedback with AW have been flawless.


----------



## darkblak

I would just like to say thank you very much to everyone for all of the comments and advice in this thread. I decided to take the plunge and ordered one. It arrived yesterday 
The display is just awesome it's just so crisp and clean.

Thank you and a very Merry Christmas to you all.

Darren


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmike7*
> 
> Sir-
> I'm sorry - but I don't see _ANYTHING_ "perfectly reasonable" about tearing the monitor apart and making the repairs myself. If I had known that _PRIOR_ to purchasing the 27Q - I would have _NEVER_ bought it. If I had known that *ACCESSORIESWHOLE* was going to not communicate with me after the sale - I would have _NEVER_ bought from them.
> Since this is a forum - its intent is for the members to share experiences - get help from others and help others with their purchasing decisions. All I'm attempting to do is expose the potential pitfalls of buying a monitor from a vendor in Korea. I am out $425 at the moment and many people may not be able to afford this large an expense for something that is notoriously _FAILING_ in actual use.
> My personal solution to the problem was to purchase a *Dell S2740L* from Costco for $300 with a three year Advance Shipment warranty. And even though the Dell is a 27 inch monitor with 1980 x 1040 resolution - it actually has a *superior* looking display than the *Crossover 27Q*.


"IF" you read the thread like you claim you did. Then you would know that the request to open up your Monitor and troubleshoot has been asked a lot of times before. So again, this is on you. You don't wish to follow instructions and your researching skills is in need of fine tuning. I will say sorry for the issues your arriving at but this is only due to your reckless way of thinking and not preparing. These monitor's are great if you know whats in-store and how to fix it. If you jump the gun and expect the whole nine yards then go buy a Apple Thunderbolt, sinceit will be covered in your 999$ charge.

Also your not out of luck if your really going to not going to do whats told of you. So how about this, maybe your listening skills can comprehend these steps.
1. Purchase Square Trade Warranty
2. File claim with Square Trade.
3. Get compensated for full payment of monitor.

Easy?

Again for all newcomers, read read read. This thread and my review. It covers everything and anything you need. Don't skim, or skip. If your really interested as I was before I bought mine you will take the time and learn everything that is or ever was the case on this monitor.


----------



## Descadent

+1 indeed, it's called due diligence.


----------



## TheZoltan

GOOD NEWS EVERYONE! Long story short, my monitor has arrived and is awesome!

Long story:
I ordered a 27Q LED (white back, all aluminum model, not pixel perfect) from Astrobile (Lightnspace) before the recent wave of bad reviews! I ordered on the 7th, and he marked it as dispatched on the 10th and issued me a tracking number that didnt really do anything. I messaged him a couple of times over the coming week asking about it. He responded on the 16th saying sorry for the delay (in terrible English of course) and then the tracking number started working (he directed me to epantos.com which then directed me to Parcel Force). According to Parcel Force's tracking, he actually shipped on the 15th. The package made it to the UK on the 17th and took its sweet time getting through customs and to my local Parcel Force depot. I went and collected it myself today as they weren't going to send it to me until the 24th! All in all I paid £210 for the monitor + £42 after customs (of which £13 was some Parcel Force "handling fee"). Note to anyone using Parcel Force - phone them up as soon as it gets to your depot, otherwise you will have to wait until they send you a letter telling you to pay your custom fees and then pay them before they ship.

It arrived inside a CrossOver box with no extra external protection. Inside the box the monitor was well packaged (just like pictures posted by people earlier) and physically intact! It came with the appropriate Korean to English adaptor which I haven't used as I was able to just plug an existing kettle cable into the power pack. I have the monitor plugged into one of the dual link DVI ports on one of my 6950 (running XFire and have a second 24" panel plugged in and working fine). The PC boots up fine and the monitor displays the bios no problem. I have it booted into windows and have applied the ICC profile from TFT central in windows 8 and it looks awesome. The cheap 24" Benq G2420HDBL sitting next to it looks shabby









I haven't spotted any dead/stuck pixels so far which is pretty great. On a black screen with the brightness down low I can notice some back light bleed from the bottom corners but its barely noticeable normally.

So in summary, aside from the dodgy communication and dispatch, the panel Astrobile sent to me is sweet!


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheZoltan*
> 
> GOOD NEWS EVERYONE! Long story short, my monitor has arrived and is awesome!
> Long story:
> I ordered a 27Q LED (white back, all aluminum model, not pixel perfect) from Astrobile (Lightnspace) before the recent wave of bad reviews! I ordered on the 7th, and he marked it as dispatched on the 10th and issued me a tracking number that didnt really do anything. I messaged him a couple of times over the coming week asking about it. He responded on the 16th saying sorry for the delay (in terrible English of course) and then the tracking number started working (he directed me to epantos.com which then directed me to Parcel Force). According to Parcel Force's tracking, he actually shipped on the 15th. The package made it to the UK on the 17th and took its sweet time getting through customs and to my local Parcel Force depot. I went and collected it myself today as they weren't going to send it to me until the 24th! All in all I paid £210 for the monitor + £42 after customs (of which £13 was some Parcel Force "handling fee"). Note to anyone using Parcel Force - phone them up as soon as it gets to your depot, otherwise you will have to wait until they send you a letter telling you to pay your custom fees and then pay them before they ship.
> It arrived inside a CrossOver box with no extra external protection. Inside the box the monitor was well packaged (just like pictures posted by people earlier) and physically intact! It came with the appropriate Korean to English adaptor which I haven't used as I was able to just plug an existing kettle cable into the power pack. I have the monitor plugged into one of the dual link DVI ports on one of my 6950 (running XFire and have a second 24" panel plugged in and working fine). The PC boots up fine and the monitor displays the bios no problem. I have it booted into windows and have applied the ICC profile from TFT central in windows 8 and it looks awesome. The cheap 24" Benq G2420HDBL sitting next to it looks shabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't spotted any dead/stuck pixels so far which is pretty great. On a black screen with the brightness down low I can notice some back light bleed from the bottom corners but its barely noticeable normally.
> So in summary, aside from the dodgy communication and dispatch, the panel Astrobile sent to me is sweet!


you better hope it stays working^^
If it dies dont panic. Ask the seller for revision number he send you...AFTER he replied to that ask if he got replacement parts...but for now be happy with it.


----------



## csjanne

I have a similar experience. I just got my 27Q LED-P from Astrobile yesterday. I read all the complaints about him after I placed my order. Besides that it took a fortnight to arrive I have no complaints about him. Maybe I was lucky.

Monitor costed 300€. Customs added Finnish VAT 23% 69€. So total cost was 369€.

Monitor is absolutely great. I haven't found any defect pixels. Maybe I just didn't find them  I ran tests from http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html

My main reason for writing is my problems with display shutting down refusing to wake up. It wakes up by itself after a while and after another while shuts down again. Checked with 2 dual-DVI cables. Checked power brick issues: 24,5V OK. I reinstalled graphics drivers clean install. Played with refresh rates 57Hz...64Hz.

All the time thinking monitor is probably faulty, finally narrowed it down to my graphics card Nvidia GTX 260.

To get monitor working with GTX260:
- from 2 DVIs only 1 is actually dual-DVI
- leave the other DVI empty. If anything is connected to other port (HDMI-TV, other monitor even when they are off) crossover keeps shutting down randomly.

Now everything is working smoothly!

I want to be able to use HDMI-TV at the same time. Thinking of buying ASUS HD7850-DC2-2GD5-V2 next. Any comments?

Lousy picture but I was trying to demonstrate that there is plenty of room for several browser windows.


Happy Holidays Everyone!

UPDATE:
It seems the failure was due to DVI-cable. I changed it back to the one that came with package. It is working wonderfully now even with HDMI-TV at the same time.


----------



## Jedi21

Hi everyone!

Ordered my 27Q this morning (21st) from AW, waiting for their reply









Do you know if they work on saturdays as well?

Cheers!


----------



## Legnar




----------



## Legnar

yea okay makes sense...????????????????? *** how am i supposed to understand this !


----------



## lionelhuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legnar*
> 
> 
> yea okay makes sense...????????????????? *** how am i supposed to understand this !


Use Google Chrome and then Google Translate?


----------



## Jedi21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legnar*
> 
> 
> yea okay makes sense...????????????????? *** how am i supposed to understand this !


Don't worry Legnar, I can read Korean.

It says you'll have to pay 558 $ for customs fees, but don't worry you have until 2014 as that's when they plan to deliver it to you.

In the meantime, your monitor is being used in a low-reputation lan party internet point in Seoul, where angry gamers throw their controllers (and beers at times too) at the screens


----------



## Descadent

some dishonored screenshots at 7680x1440.


----------



## lionelhuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> some dishonored screenshots at 7680x1440.


In the words of Apu Nahasapeemapetilon, "You magnificent bastard! I salute you."


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> some dishonored screenshots at 7680x1440.


*Drools*


----------



## TheZoltan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Legnar*


Had a similar *** moment as my parcel was shipped with them initially. What I needed to do was enter the tracking number I was issued by the seller into www.epantos.com then that page shows basically nothing other than a "carrier no" (I think thats what it was called). Take note of that number and then click it which takes you to that weird EMS site. Somewhere on there you should find a list of countries (google translate might come in handy). Find your country and click it and it should take you to your local couriers website. Then enter your carrier number into there site. Thats what worked for me any way. I clicked through the EMS site and that took me to Parcel Force (UK mail service) and the carrier number worked on there site. It took several days before the number started working for me as I think the seller marked as dispatched straight away and got me a tracking number but the parcel didn't actually get shipped for days so Parcel Forces system just kept claiming it didn't exist!

Got here in the end


----------



## nau310d

Just received my 27 Q from BCC. Seems in good shape. Haven't noticed any dead pixel.

Had a stuck pixel in the middle though, but after massaging gently for a while it seems to be fine.

I'm happy with the buy, especially since it was 3 times cheaper. Let's just see how long it lasts.


----------



## csjanne

To Legnar

'Translate This! 2.0' is a nice add on for Firefox for quick translations.

You can use your EG****KR code with your local post office. In this case http://sporing.posten.no/sporing.html?q=EG620043165KR&lang=en


----------



## Legnar

thanks man, but why has it been sent 2 times XD


----------



## lionelhuts

I bought a second CrossOver today from AW. Luckily, lightnspace let my offer expire (I submitted that before I read all the stories here). My current one (from old dcsamsungmall) is running strong since last March.

I'll post my experiences when it arrives.


----------



## Mackem

Does AW sell a CrossOver than can be height-adjusted and has more than just a DVI input?


----------



## Descadent

nope, you would have to buy the mdp version and get a new stand for it.


----------



## m625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> nope, you would have to buy the mdp version and get a new stand for it.


ahem...









http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/130785741361

And for some reason aw has the wrong pics in that but the model number is this :

http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2730MD-P


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> Does AW sell a CrossOver than can be height-adjusted and has more than just a DVI input?


Why would you want a multi input monitor?

Multi input = more input lag.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Why would you want a multi input monitor?
> Multi input = more input lag.


In theory that statment is true but in this instance there is nothing to worry about.

There several post by us MDP2720 owners stating that there is no input lag of note during games or action scenes during a film.

I would have posted to stay clear of this model and returned it if there was any notable input lag to ruin my gaming.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> In theory that statment is true but in this instance there is nothing to worry about.
> There several post by us MDP2720 owners stating that there is no input lag of note during games or action scenes during a film.
> I would have posted to stay clear of this model and returned it if there was any notable input lag to ruin my gaming.


there has been several posts on each korean monitor thread about the extra lag from multi input version actually, especially when compared directly to non multi input. That is why the main advice is not to get one if you can manage it, unless you don't play games or must have your console on it. But if you have nothing to compare it too then no worries lol


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> In theory that statment is true but in this instance there is nothing to worry about.
> There several post by us MDP2720 owners stating that there is no input lag of note during games or action scenes during a film.
> I would have posted to stay clear of this model and returned it if there was any notable input lag to ruin my gaming.


You won't notice input lag on movies - the only place where it matters is in fast-paced, twitch shooters. It tends to make your controls feel a bit mushy - but that's the extent of how it affects you.
Quote:


> Why would you want a multi input monitor?


I would think it obvious. So you could have multiple inputs to your monitor. Like if I wanted to hook my laptop up to my monitor (CAD on 1440p? Yes please.)


----------



## Althulas

Ok point made but to be honest there is no difference of not to be made from my own eyes between this and my old 22" TFT on BF3. If I didn't need the multi input sure I would have gone for the single input monitor I was just reassuring the needs from the original posters question.


----------



## Descadent

no big deal, any crossover is badass anyways.


----------



## PvtHudson

I have the 2720MDP and I'm a gamer. I've noticed no noticeable input lag and I mostly play FPS games.


----------



## hoth17

I see BCC has accepted offers for their monitors. What price have you been able to get?

Also, AW has the 2720MDP I want for $350ish + $100 for shipping. Anyone know if he will combine shipping if you buy multiple? I figure with enough tape, he can safely ship both as one package.


----------



## kattzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoth17*
> 
> I see BCC has accepted offers for their monitors. What price have you been able to get?
> Also, AW has the 2720MDP I want for $350ish + $100 for shipping. Anyone know if he will combine shipping if you buy multiple? I figure with enough tape, he can safely ship both as one package.


Was thinking about the same thing regarding the bids that have been accepted. I highly doubt that you're able to save anything more than maybe 10 usd, but I'll give it a shot when I order my new screen.


----------



## hoth17

Quote:


> Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> 
> We do not provide discount for multi purchase since monitor is packed and shipped seperately for its safety reason.
> 
> In matter of Duty/tax, I believe you will not be responsible for it since USA and Korea have FTA.
> However, you may have to pay state tax.
> 
> We mostly declare monitor value $200 and declare it as sample product.
> 
> Sincerely


Fair, and not unexpected.

After finding out I may have to pay tax (essentially 9% in CA), a crossover monitor would be more than a Auria monitor (as I need the DP). Looks like I'll just pick up a pair of Aurias then.


----------



## pgriffith

Just ordered a 2720 from BCC. They accepted $420 from an initial $450.

Sweeet


----------



## coolxal

So how is dream-seller? Is he still good?

His rating is only 98.5% but I do recall a lot of buyers recommending him.


----------



## PvtHudson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> So how is dream-seller? Is he still good?
> His rating is only 98.5% but I do recall a lot of buyers recommending him.


I got my 2720mdp from him recently. Pretty much a perfect unit. He inspects the monitors before sending them out. My only complaint was there was a 2 day delay in the shipping.


----------



## nau310d

I got two screens for $800. So $400 each







(from BCC)

They were in perfect condition. No stuck or dead pixels that I can notice. Can't notice any back-light bleeding either.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nau310d*
> 
> I got two screens for $800. So $400 each
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (from BCC)
> They were in perfect condition. No stuck or dead pixels that I can notice. Can't notice any back-light bleeding either.


There seems to be a good trend with BCC.

I think BCC sells monitors with the least amount of monitor problems.

I'll probably buy the Korean monitors from BCC.


----------



## barkinos98

is there any difference between 2730MD-P and 2720MDP Gold other than the DP and 2nd HDMI inputs? i want one of these with HDMI for my consoles and with a pivot since only their height can be adjusted.


----------



## tr1xst3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> There seems to be a good trend with BCC.
> I think BCC sells monitors with the least amount of monitor problems.
> I'll probably buy the Korean monitors from BCC.


AW has also been extremely good with his monitors as of late.

Bcc and AW seem like the two guys to go to atm


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> is there any difference between 2730MD-P and 2720MDP Gold other than the DP and 2nd HDMI inputs? i want one of these with HDMI for my consoles and with a pivot since only their height can be adjusted.


I think the -P means that it can be overclocked.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I think the -P means that it can be overclocked.


i believe it is for pivot tho, the 2730MD cant be used in portrait mode, if ebay is correct.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Yeah, its for pivot. None of the CrossOver's can be overclocked.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> Yeah, its for pivot. None of the CrossOver's can be overclocked.


but that is the only difference right? amount of connectors?


----------



## m625

So has anyone of the recent people who got their 27q that seem to not have any picture when connected either get theirs replaced or find what the issue/fix is?


----------



## Xibal

firstly, does your graphics card support dual dvi link.


----------



## m625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> firstly, does your graphics card support dual dvi link.


Yes I've commented on this a few pages back, gtx 670 > dual link dvi cable ( I've tested with 2 different dual link dvi cables ) > Monitor backlight turns on > monitor is recognized by windows > display stays black > LED stays blue.


----------



## Xibal

have you also tried on a different computer?

LED stays blue should indicate that monitor is working, (red is when no picture is displayed i.e. turn on monitor without turning on the tower).

If that fails, then u might have a DOA.


----------



## m625

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> have you also tried on a different computer?
> LED stays blue should indicate that monitor is working, (red is when no picture is displayed i.e. turn on monitor without turning on the tower).
> If that fails, then u might have a DOA.


Thanks for trying to help

But yes, I already know all of that. Some others had the same issue with theirs I was just seeing if anyone had any updates or fixes to the issue. I have exhausted all of the obvious fixes.


----------



## HotFieryTech

What's up guys. I just received my 2720MDP from AccessoriesWhole and everything is great, but........... it's missing an HDMI port. I talked to AW and they said that the manufacturer updated the model and it is supposed to have one HDMI 1.4a and one HDMI. I am pretty disappointed because I bought it so that I could plug my MacBook, XBOX, and PS3 into it. Should I demand a refund? Is there some way that I could like order the port that goes there because there is a port on the motherboard that I see (although I don't know if this would work since the OSD only recognizes one HDMI input).

Thanks.


----------



## Althulas

If it was advertised of having x2 HDMI 1.4a ports send it back as it sold as not described or ask for the boards to retro fit it. There has been positive feedback on here from your seller so I'm sure he 'll accommodate you one way or the other.


----------



## borgqueenx

my monitor is still going strong after a week. no problems have arrised whatsoever and i enjoy it like the day it arrived.


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HotFieryTech*
> 
> What's up guys. I just received my 2720MDP from AccessoriesWhole and everything is great, but........... it's missing an HDMI port. I talked to AW and they said that the manufacturer updated the model and it is supposed to have one HDMI 1.4a and one HDMI. I am pretty disappointed because I bought it so that I could plug my MacBook, XBOX, and PS3 into it. Should I demand a refund? Is there some way that I could like order the port that goes there


this is why im buying the 2720MDP, to have the PS3 computer and Xbox plugged so i dont have to bend over. anyway, thanks for the seller name man! he ships the cheapest, and told me he would do stuff to prevent it getting stuck in customs. +rep, for saving me a few bucks


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> firstly, does your graphics card support dual dvi link.


All graphics cards these days support dual-link DVI.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> All graphics cards these days support dual-link DVI.


Not true. Even some high end gaming ones don't... one of the Radeon MSI lightning cards doesn't.

[edit] http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/HD_7970_Lightning/33.html


----------



## strap624

After 2+ months my crossover is still going strong, no issues.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Not true. Even some high end gaming ones don't... one of the Radeon MSI lightning cards doesn't.
> [edit] http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/HD_7970_Lightning/33.html


Maybe I should have said "the vast majority. My bad.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Not true. Even some high end gaming ones don't... one of the Radeon MSI lightning cards doesn't.
> [edit] http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/HD_7970_Lightning/33.html


Double post.


----------



## drserk

My 27qd led came today. But there is a problem. when i worked it at first i saw the windows start screen. after that the screen got black and monitor looks like continuesly restarting and led is turning blue to red and red to blue.. and it stil turning with black and grey screen...

it happens like that: led is blue but for a second it turns to red... Monitor is some working and after stops while there is a sound like '' tik'' from power adaptor and back of the monitor.







and it looks like in sleeping mode...maybe problem is about panel









is there anything wrong i did?


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks. Let's help drserk out. I just talked to him over in a Turkish forum.

I believe the problem is power adapter related but I would like to see if you guys experienced similar issues. I believe the power is not really going through the monitor to fire it up.

I don't think the problem is with the monitor itself but one can not be sure.

I was also thinking of a possible loose cable inside the monitor, but yet again his monitor did function properly in the beginning and the problem only occured later. So this should pretty much eliminate the loose cable theory.


----------



## ryant704

Hello,

For Christmas I was kindly given a Crossover 27QLED-P monitor, I've unpacked everything and plugged it in but I'm not sure what's wrong.

The problem is that the monitor doesn't seem to receive any power? The adapter shows power, the power brick also shows power but the actual monitor shows no power at all. I currently don't have the DVI cable in, but I would assume this has nothing to do with power but I'm pretty sure this didn't work earlier either when I had power and the DVI cable in. Am I missing something or do I need anything else?

My graphics card is a HD6850 1GB

Thanks


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryant704*
> 
> Hello,
> For Christmas I was kindly given a Crossover 27QLED-P monitor, I've unpacked everything and plugged it in but I'm not sure what's wrong.
> The problem is that the monitor doesn't seem to receive any power? The adapter shows power, the power brick also shows power but the actual monitor shows no power at all. I currently don't have the DVI cable in, but I would assume this has nothing to do with power but I'm pretty sure this didn't work earlier either when I had power and the DVI cable in. Am I missing something or do I need anything else?
> My graphics card is a HD6850 1GB
> Thanks


are you sure if your 6850 has dual link DVI?


----------



## ryant704

Hello,

Yes, I'm certain.

Link to the exact model I bought, http://www.ebuyer.com/product/248370

Sorry If I'm not meant to link to external websites. It clearly states Dual DVI and HDMI.


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> My 27qd led came today. But there is a problem. when i worked it at first i saw the windows start screen. after that the screen got black and monitor looks like continuesly restarting and led is turning blue to red and red to blue.. and it stil turning with black and grey screen...
> it happens like that: led is blue but for a second it turns to red... Monitor is some working and after stops while there is a sound like '' tik'' from power adaptor and back of the monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it looks like in sleeping mode...maybe problem is about panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there anything wrong i did?


can anybody help me about this problem?


----------



## Jedi21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryant704*
> 
> Hello,
> For Christmas I was kindly given a Crossover 27QLED-P monitor, I've unpacked everything and plugged it in but I'm not sure what's wrong.
> The problem is that the monitor doesn't seem to receive any power? The adapter shows power, the power brick also shows power but the actual monitor shows no power at all.
> Thanks


My 27Q arrived today, same problem!!

Try inserting the power cable plug in the monitor with flat side facing +backwards+, it should slide and gently lock easily.

That has almost driven me stupid, as instructions clearly stated to rotate it towards, and the seemingly dead monitor that resulted worried me quite a bit









Anyway, hope this helps


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> My 27qd led came today. But there is a problem. when i worked it at first i saw the windows start screen. after that the screen got black and monitor looks like continuesly restarting and led is turning blue to red and red to blue.. and it stil turning with black and grey screen...
> it happens like that: led is blue but for a second it turns to red... Monitor is some working and after stops while there is a sound like '' tik'' from power adaptor and back of the monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it looks like in sleeping mode...maybe problem is about panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there anything wrong i did?


you are using the cable that came with the monitor right? and have it hooked up to right input on the card?


----------



## ryant704

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi21*
> 
> My 27Q arrived today, same problem!!
> Try inserting the power cable plug in the monitor with flat side facing +backwards+, it should slide and gently lock easily.
> That has almost driven me stupid, as instructions clearly stated to rotate it towards, and the seemingly dead monitor that resulted worried me quite a bit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, hope this helps


So, the power cable. The flat piece should be facing away from the screen against the wall? Then I should twist it gently to lock it?


----------



## Delphiwizard

The flat side should be facing the screen if i recall correctly


----------



## telemach

BCC replaced my broken unit with new one for free and this one is pure awesome. PCB is same but wiring looks better.
I recommend you guys this application :

http://www.dataproductservices.com/dpt

it can display different patterns

one question : I experience some artifacts; block of grey or black pixels; sometimes it blinks when mouse is moved over (I replaced wireless with wired but same problem) and sometime is on it's own even on video layer; Do you think a better shielded cable would help or it's just driver issue ?


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> The flat side should be facing the screen if i recall correctly


i tried it but led-light isnot working. when i did and also there is no change on monitor


----------



## barkinos98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> can anybody help me about this problem?


to be honest, i cant lol, but welcome in ocn! another turkish person! #masterrace


----------



## Jedi21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryant704*
> 
> 1. The flat piece should be facing away from the screen against the wall? 2. Then I should twist it gently to lock it?


1. Yes, at least in mine that's how it's working









2. Nope, no twist.. Just insert it straight with the flat side facing away from the screen.

@Delphiwizard You recall instructions correctly, so I guess there may be units assembled differently.

I'd suggest checking all 4 insertion possibilities +without forcing the plug+.

Ryant let us know how it goes!


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> to be honest, i cant lol, but welcome in ocn! another turkish person! #masterrace


hoşbulduk keşke bu monitör de tadımı kaçırmasaydı.. this situation make me annoyed much







i paid %20 tax for customs and now it seems i have to return it to the seller..


----------



## lionelhuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> My 27qd led came today. But there is a problem. when i worked it at first i saw the windows start screen. after that the screen got black and monitor looks like continuesly restarting and led is turning blue to red and red to blue.. and it stil turning with black and grey screen...
> it happens like that: led is blue but for a second it turns to red... Monitor is some working and after stops while there is a sound like '' tik'' from power adaptor and back of the monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it looks like in sleeping mode...maybe problem is about panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there anything wrong i did?


I've seen this exact problem on computers that cannot output 2560x1440 resolution. Can you see the BIOS screen when you boot-up? What is your GPU?

Also, I got my second CrossOver from AW today. I bought it on the 22nd, and it arrived at my door in NY on the 26th. It arrived with decent bubble wrap packing on the outside. The inside was well protected.

I bought the non-pivot non-perfect pixel version. No stuck or dead pixels and it's working perfectly with my GTX 550 Ti. (Yeah it's old, but I don't play games.)

In terms of exterior, it appears almost identical to the pivot version I got from dcsamsungmall in March (aside from the stand of course). The only interesting difference is that the DVI and power input ports are on located on opposite sides. By this I mean the DVI is to the left of the power input on the pivot. It is to the right of the power input on my AccessoriesWhole one. Perhaps that indicates a difference board revision?

The AW version was noticeably yellow when initially plugged in. (Not the yellow corner issues people have been reporting. The whole monitor itself had a nasty yellow tint.) My older CrossOver was calibrated with nVidia's control panel. I tried getting my new CrossOver to match the cool-blue calibration colors I had on the other one without success. Instead I ended up using Windows 8 built in display color settings calibration option and now both appear virtually identical to my eyes.

Some of my coworkers bought the pivot version but ended up using their own mount. They are giving me one of the pivot ones they took off, and I'll post pictures of the dual setup as soon as I replace the non-pivot stand.


----------



## ryant704

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi21*
> 
> 1. Yes, at least in mine that's how it's working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Nope, no twist.. Just insert it straight with the flat side facing away from the screen.
> @Delphiwizard You recall instructions correctly, so I guess there may be units assembled differently.
> I'd suggest checking all 4 insertion possibilities +without forcing the plug+.
> Ryant let us know how it goes!


Nevermind, I feel like a complete idiot now. Thought the power button was touch-screen, turns out they're not, haha the buttons are on the back. I would of found that out long ago if the the instructions wasn't in korean.

Thank you all for your help anyway!


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lionelhuts*
> 
> I've seen this exact problem on computers that cannot output 2560x1440 resolution. Can you see the BIOS screen when you boot-up?
> What is your GPU?


i could see bios and windows screen when it is started at first. but since problem was occured, i cant see anything..sometimes there are some colourful lines for a second and again nothing.
my gpu is gtx670 (SLI). when i activated or deactivated SLI, still there is no change


----------



## zxrax1

Before I read this thread and saw the awful things people had to say about lightnspace / astrobile, I'd ordered a 2720MDP from him on ebay. Though the tracking information given on ebay was all sorts of bull**** (which scared me initially), the monitor finally arrived today. I can't find a single dead pixel - it appears I got a good one. We'll have to see how things play out, but I'm pretty damn excited though.

Does anyone have a link or something that translates all the OSD menus? I'd like to be able to play around with monitor settings but it's not exactly non-korean friendly.

EDIT: I found the "Change it to english" button, by some miracle.


----------



## drserk

It is my fault to buy a monitor from korea which cannot have any guarantee.i have been known as one of bad unlucky...me and my bad luck...this photo was taken by me. this is happening sometimes for a second as you see. after a second, it will be black again.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> It is my fault to buy a monitor from korea which cannot have any guarantee.i have been known as one of bad unlucky...me and my bad luck...


Hmmm

That doesn't look good.

Send this picture to the seller and let's see what he will say about it.

Sux bro.

around 85% of the monitors don't have a problem. And 10% have minor issues that can be fixed.

You are in the unlucky 5%. Sorry about that.

But again no hope is lost. Maybe it is something that can be fixed.

Just don't forget to send the picture to the seller. Normally Crossover monitors have the best build quality and etc...

Edit : Dual DVI cable might be having issues too.


----------



## m.oreilly

it sounds like the power connector on the monitor and from the brick to monitor have a different type fitting than most? my doublesight has the four prong that goes to the monitor, but it has a 'guide' that can only allow one way to connect. is there a pic somewhere of the fitting at the end of the monitor side of the brick?


----------



## m.oreilly

oh, i ordered the non pivot yesterday. this should be interesting...


----------



## Arm3nian

Hey guys, any recommendations for a calibrator? I have the 27q led-p perfect pixel. Trying to decide between colormunki display and spyder 4 pro. The munki I can get at $142 with the student discount and the spyder is $139 at amazon, so basically the same price. Any suggestions? Thanks. Kind of leaning towards the spyder.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Hey guys, any recommendations for a calibrator? I have the 27q led-p perfect pixel. Trying to decide between colormunki display and spyder 4 pro. The munki I can get at $142 with the student discount and the spyder is $139 at amazon, so basically the same price. Any suggestions? Thanks. Kind of leaning towards the spyder.


I've done a bit of reading on this and the colormunki seems to be favored over the spyder 4 express.


----------



## drserk

this morning i have tried the D-DVI cable which is came with crossover monitor to connect my old LG d2342p. i think that the problem might be dvi-d cable. but it is working without problem when i used with LG d2342p. so i have to return this monitor to seller ''accessorieswhole''. i have sent message but he does not yet respond


----------



## xmax126

After a lot of reading about the Korean monitors I think im going to go with a Crossover from AW or BCC. Just a couple of questions for the experts.

1. The only difference between the 27q p and 27q p blade, is the outside panel frame? Just ascetics correct?

2. Might be using these in portrait a bit so I was wondering, can you guys let me know which of the 2 has the smallest bottom bezel?

3. I can use an old power cable (from the brick to the wall) instead of the supplied power cable and adapter? No reason to buy a new power brick unless mine gets very hot or is labeled 230v or something?

4. I have an overhead light (8 feet high) about 5 feet directly behind me, am I only going to see the lights reflection in the glossy screen?

5. Any of you guys in the states have to pay any extra fees to the shipping company? If so how much and for what?

6. I know this isnt the video card section but I need help with that as well. Will probably end up buying 3 monitors. 1 at first and if all is good ill get the next 2. These will be for work so not much gaming. I would like to buy just one video card if I could or at least the cheapest way to get the 3 dvi ports that i need. Let me know what options I have.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> this morning i have tried the D-DVI cable which is came with crossover monitor to connect my old LG d2342p. i think that the problem might be dvi-d cable. but it is working without problem when i used with LG d2342p. so i have to return this monitor to seller ''accessorieswhole''. i have sent message but he does not yet respond


I can't really understand what you are saying, but you have to use the cable that came with the crossover as it is a dl-dvi cable, not a regular dvi cable that is most likely being used with your lg.. your lg isn't even a dl-dvi monitor so it's irrelevant to what is going on


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xmax126*
> 
> After a lot of reading about the Korean monitors I think im going to go with a Crossover from AW or BCC. Just a couple of questions for the experts.
> 1. The only difference between the 27q p and 27q p blade, is the outside panel frame? Just ascetics correct?
> 2. Might be using these in portrait a bit so I was wondering, can you guys let me know which of the 2 has the smallest bottom bezel?
> 3. I can use an old power cable (from the brick to the wall) instead of the supplied power cable and adapter? No reason to buy a new power brick unless mine gets very hot or is labeled 230v or something?
> 4. I have an overhead light (8 feet high) about 5 feet directly behind me, am I only going to see the lights reflection in the glossy screen?
> 5. Any of you guys in the states have to pay any extra fees to the shipping company? If so how much and for what?
> 6. I know this isnt the video card section but I need help with that as well. Will probably end up buying 3 monitors. 1 at first and if all is good ill get the next 2. These will be for work so not much gaming. I would like to buy just one video card if I could or at least the cheapest way to get the 3 dvi ports that i need. Let me know what options I have.
> Thanks in advance.


1. yeap i'd get the led-p though because its frame and outside is just 100% solid and quality.
2. no idea i only have the led-p.
3. sure you can use your own brick or cables, just make sure you get the right voltage and enough amps to power it and that it fits.
4. yes you will these screens are high glossy and you do not want any light to have a direct line of sight with the screen.
5. declare lower value and you might be fine. custom fees are always different. your customs can easily say no to the declared value and put their own value on it. then to fight that back it will take some time. i live in europe, but ive seen it everywhere.
6. 1 video card for 3 monitors? get the best of the best. GTX680 or better.


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> I can't really understand what you are saying, but you have to use the cable that came with the crossover as it is a dl-dvi cable, not a regular dvi cable that is most likely being used with your lg.. your lg isn't even a dl-dvi monitor so it's irrelevant to what is going on


i saw that dvi-d connection can be used to on lg monitor. i only tried it on lg monitor..tomorrow i will go to a technical service for this problem. the shipping from turkey to korea costs 500 $


----------



## m.oreilly

it's here!!! ordered wednesday night, and arrives friday morning! at work atm, so it will be a bit before i can set it up...


----------



## m.oreilly

JUST WOW!!! beautiful image. no stuck/dead i can see. one thing, you really need to shove the three prong cable into the brick: mine powered up, but had no picture until i forced the wall side cable into the brick. there is only one way to insert the monitor side power plug into the monitor, with the 'flat' side (black plastic plug casing) facing *away* from monitor, at least here, even though the instructions taped to the monitor face say _towards_ the monitor...
oh, and from brick to wall outlet, i used a psu power cable instead of the supplied korean plug/adapter


----------



## vuman619

I have 2 x crossover 27q led-p and the power cables face different directions, lol. 1 is flat end towards screen other is away, different board revisions as well, have had since november and they are still going strong.


----------



## HotFieryTech

Just to follow up on my last post, AW says that Crossover no longer makes the 2720MDP with 2 HDMI ports. I'm not sure if this is bogus, but ask your seller before you order to make sure.


----------



## alig23

Pretty disappointed with my experience with bigclothcraft.

So I bought the monitor the 17th. I wait three days without any update, so I sent a message. Someone responds back asking what card I had, etc. I respond back, and a few more days pass. I email again, they finally respond back with a tracking number, and state it had been shipped out the 26th. As of today, when I check the tracking number, I still continue to see "A UPS shipping label has been created."

Its been 12 days as of today since my payment cleared. He shipped it via ups, which means the soonest I can get it is Monday; 14 days since payment cleared.

If I don't receive some sort of update, I'm calling my credit card company for a charge back. This is bull****.


----------



## nau310d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alig23*
> 
> Pretty disappointed with my experience with bigclothcraft.
> So I bought the monitor the 17th. I wait three days without any update, so I sent a message. Someone responds back asking what card I had, etc. I respond back, and a few more days pass. I email again, they finally respond back with a tracking number, and state it had been shipped out the 26th. As of today, when I check the tracking number, I still continue to see "A UPS shipping label has been created."
> Its been 12 days as of today since my payment cleared. He shipped it via ups, which means the soonest I can get it is Monday; 14 days since payment cleared.
> If I don't receive some sort of update, I'm calling my credit card company for a charge back. This is bull****.


yeah that's the problem with BCC. He states the monitors are available when they aren't, so he has to order them or something. It took him 14 days just to ship my monitors, but they arrived finally. The good thing is that he inspects them before shipping them, so you are sure you are getting a good screen.

I would say wait a few more days before calling our credit card company. Also don't forget that it was holidays and stuff so things are always slower.


----------



## gezer

So guys, if you remember me, I sent my Crossover back to AW nearly a month ago, I received it a week ago and it arrived without problems, the monitor has no stutter or flickering. It has a green pcb board unlike my previous one with the flickering issues that had the blue pcb board.

I discovered 1 or 2 red pixels on it, but its not noticable. Are these dead pixels?

I'm very happy with my monitor, I'll probably purchase another one next year.


----------



## drserk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> My 27qd led came today. But there is a problem. when i worked it at first i saw the windows start screen. after that the screen got black and monitor looks like continuesly restarting and led is turning blue to red and red to blue.. and it stil turning with black and grey screen...
> it happens like that: led is blue but for a second it turns to red... Monitor is some working and after stops while there is a sound like '' tik'' from power adaptor and back of the monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it looks like in sleeping mode...maybe problem is about panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is there anything wrong i did?


today i went to a technical service to analyze and solve this problem. so the problem is about the power adaptor and cable and it's results..they have changed the cable and some protecting compenents on panel pcb. now it is working without a problem







3 dead pixel, one is at the border of panel so not important







but seller called accessorieswhole doesnt respond my questions. at first i wanted to send it back. but the cargo had to be paid by me and it costs 600usd from Turkey to S. Korea. and the seller called ''accessorieswhole'' onyl give one answer and it is '' what is your graphic card''. after that he didnt respond any messages that i wrote.
anyway i am happy it is wonderful!


----------



## F0zzie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> So guys, if you remember me, I sent my Crossover back to AW nearly a month ago, I received it a week ago and it arrived without problems, the monitor has no stutter or flickering. It has a green pcb board unlike my previous one with the flickering issues that had the blue pcb board.
> I discovered 1 or 2 red pixels on it, but its not noticable. Are these dead pixels?
> I'm very happy with my monitor, I'll probably purchase another one next year.


No, they aren't dead pixels, they are stuck pixels and you can try to massage them gently to fix it or leave it and maybe they will go away by themselves.


----------



## Swiftes

UK Based people where do you recommend purchasing one of these from?


----------



## freitz

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c

Why are the Perfect pixel ones 1000$?


----------



## tr1xst3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c
> Why are the Perfect pixel ones 1000$?


Because AW actually makes sure that there are 0 dead pixels as well as no backlight bleeding.

The monitor basically has an A+ panel instead of an A/A- panel like most of us have.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr1xst3r*
> 
> Because AW actually makes sure that there are 0 dead pixels as well as no backlight bleeding.
> The monitor basically has an A+ panel instead of an A/A- panel like most of us have.


So he actually wants 1000$ for it?


----------



## tr1xst3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> So he actually wants 1000$ for it?


Yes, it is then the same price range as buying a 1440p panel from US / Canada.

He's actually sold 103 of them as well it says on ebay.


----------



## freitz

Damn,

I should have bought one when the perfect pixels where 400$. Which ones are the A panels that he sells? or does he not check for those anymore?


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> today i went to a technical service to analyze and solve this problem. so the problem is about the power adaptor and cable and it's results..they have changed the cable and some protecting compenents on panel pcb. now it is working without a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


this is good news!


----------



## rick19011

2720MDP GOLD seems to have a scaler built in, would it be worth paying the extra $ and getting it over the 27q LED model? Will I notice much difference with 10bit color than 8bit?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drserk*
> 
> today i went to a technical service to analyze and solve this problem. so the problem is about the power adaptor and cable and it's results..they have changed the cable and some protecting compenents on panel pcb. now it is working without a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 dead pixel, one is at the border of panel so not important
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but seller called accessorieswhole doesnt respond my questions. at first i wanted to send it back. but the cargo had to be paid by me and it costs 600usd from Turkey to S. Korea. and the seller called ''accessorieswhole'' onyl give one answer and it is '' what is your graphic card''. after that he didnt respond any messages that i wrote.
> anyway i am happy it is wonderful!


glad it's working, but it's the weekend now and AW prob won't answer till monday morning their time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c
> Why are the Perfect pixel ones 1000$?


read the description! says out of stock! AW bumps the up to 1k when he is out of stock so he doesn't lose the listing and presence.


----------



## Jethric

Ok guys, I think I need some help right now. I purchased my pixel perfect monitor from AW back in August, thinking I would then purchase the components for my new computer. I had sold all of my old components, so I did not have anything I could plug the monitor into when it finally arrived. Due to a shortage of funds, I was not able to fully purchase and build my new computer until a few days ago. This is what I posted back in august:
Quote:


> Upon arrival, I plugged the power cable into the monitor and got neither a red or blue light from the LED in the bottom right corner of my "pixel perfect" 27q LED-P when I pressed the power button.
> 
> When I was rearranging my desk earlier today, I tried plugging in the monitor again just for kicks thinking that it must only turn on when it has received some sort of DVI signal, but to my surprise (and with only the power cable connected), the blue light came on and then went to the red LED (meaning it did not have a DVI signal I'm guessing). Thinking that all of my worries were over, I plugged in the DVI cable and set it up through the back of my desk in anticipation for my new desktop computer. When I went to test it again a few hours ago, after only plugging in the DVI cable into the DVI port on the monitor, the LED once again did not come on. I have tried troubleshooting all possible configurations (dvi cable unplugged, power brick cable, checking to make sure the green LED was on on the Welltronics brick). I'm really stumped as to why this happened and now seriously considering contacting accessorieswhole about the issue.


Now I finally got my new system built, and I plugged the DVI cable from the monitor into my new graphics card, and then plugged the AC adapter into the monitor (flat side facing the unit, since I have the old blue PCB). I then encountered the same problem from when I first plugged it in. Although the light in the AC adapter was a steady green, there seemed to be no power running to the monitor, because the LED in the bottom right would not power on, and the back light would not come on either. I had contacted AccessoriesWhole about the problem before, and I have just sent them another email explaining the problem again. I know it is well past the 30-day replacement period, and I also realize that AW is completely out of stock on the pixel perfect units, but I can't tell if the problem is with the PCB, Power Supply, or something else related to the monitor.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Descadent

sounds like something is loose somewhere and you get a 1 yr warranty with AW so if you can't get it fixed they will figure it out with you one way or another I'd imagine.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> sounds like something is loose somewhere and you get a 1 yr warranty with AW so if you can't get it fixed they will figure it out with you one way or another I'd imagine.


Yeah, I'm hoping that it's just a PCB problem which I could get the replacement part for. I sent AW that email two days ago, maybe they're still on their Christmas break but I'm hoping to hear back soon.


----------



## Descadent

well they def don't answer on weekends and not sure how korea celebrates with new years eve/day being off or what.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> well they def don't answer on weekends and not sure how korea celebrates with new years eve/day being off or what.


I'm pretty sure New Years holiday will delay shipping.


----------



## m.oreilly

make sure you have the wall socket cable pushed into the brick as much as it can go (what are you using to go from brick to wall socket?), and what gpu are you using?


----------



## alig23

Well I called BCC bigclothcraft and spoke to a lady who spoke broken English. She apologized that the monitors were still sitting in the warehouse waiting to be shipped out, and she promised me they would be shipped out before 5 (Korea time).

Its 5:30 KST, and my shipment is still saying "A UPS shipping label has been created. Once the shipment arrives at our facility, the tracking status will be updated."

My banks claims department is closed now, but I think when I wake up tomorrow, the first thing I will do is file for a charge back

15 days. It has been 15 days since I paid bcc ( bigclothcraft ) and still no monitor, or a sign of a monitor. My advice to anyone here, is if your wanting your monitor delivered in a timely manner, avoid bcc ( bigclothcraft ) like the plague.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> glad it's working, but it's the weekend now and AW prob won't answer till monday morning their time.
> read the description! says out of stock! AW bumps the up to 1k when he is out of stock so he doesn't lose the listing and presence.


----------



## DaGoat

Okay, so I'm still very hesitant to pull the trigger on these Korean ones because it's a hit-or-miss - I've read so many issues on this thread either with the monitor itself or with the delivery....
But let's say I give it a chance.

Now I'm hesitating between a non-pixel perfect from AW or a Pixel Perfect from BCC.
AW don't have Pixel Perfect ones at the moment, I emailed them to know if there will be any soon, here's the response:
Quote:


> Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> We are also trying our best to get pixel perfect monitors but have not have it in stock.
> 
> Sincerely,


So I must confess I'm rather scared... If they do not have any pixel perfect in stock, does it mean that they know that the ones they have in stock have dead pixels?









I contacted BigClothCraft To know about the rev., as I've been advised to demand a rev.3 so I asked for a rev.3. Here's their response:
Quote:


> Im sorry for the late reply.
> What do you mean by 'Rev.1, 2, or 3'?
> I will hear from you.
> 
> Best Regards


Okay so they don't know







... What am I supposd to respond?

I also contacted BigClothCraft again to know about their Pixel Perfect policy, as they claim to have Pixel Perfect units at the moment, and I've been told that only AccessoriesWhole REALLY check their Pixel Perfect units before shipping.. Here's the response:
Quote:


> Perfect pixel version allows 1 black dot dead pixel.
> Manufacturer also verify dead but
> we also do our personal inspection for the monitor.
> 
> We have 1 year of seller warranty for faulty monitor.
> Dead pixel matter also can be the reason of returning.
> 
> Best Regards


OK so what should I do with each seller and would you guys advice me to purchase a Pixel Perfect unit from BCC or a simple unit from AW? They're roughly the same price...
I often read that BCC is not very responsive once the monitor is ordered, they take a week or two to send it, give fake tracking numbers, send several e-mails always saying that the monitor will be shipped "tomorrow", etc. but they're still the second recommended seller with AW.


----------



## Descadent

people, as we have said 100x buying pixel perfects aren't worth it. especially if you buy from AW. they have less than 3 pixel policy and sell only A panels. other sellers sell A- for exception of maybe 1 other. AW also gives you a yr warranty and a day and half shipping from korea to the U.S... not all countries have free trade agreement with Korea like the U.S. does so it may take longer to get through your customs.

I got 3 from aw. not one issue, all non pixel perfects. honestly if 1 -3 pixels bothers you out of 3,686,400 pixels then I don't know what to tell you. Every monitor including ones from big manufactures can have dead pixels/light bleed. It isn't guaranteed. Even by U.S. law, it isn't guaranteed you don't have dead pixels.

just buy the koreans, you won't be disappointed, but choose the best sellers even if they cost more. It's worth it.

Just remember I got 3 crossovers for price of 1 dell or apple thunderbolt and it's same identical monitor as the apple just with metal casing and a good stand. If these koreans were as much as a dell, apple, hp, asus. I wouldn't have ever bought into 1440p.


----------



## DaGoat

Yeah, thanks for the input. The only thing bothering me is the custom fees, I live in France and they tax like hell here. So depnding on how I might be taxed at the custom, (again, another hit or miss) I may end up with a not-so-cheap product and I could just buy a good 1440p in my country for not that much more.

Are the Crossover 27Q LED superior to the SAMSUNG SyncMaster S27A850D?

Also, what makes me hesitate to pull the triggger on a 1440p is obviously the response time of these monitors. I'm not an extreme-hardcore gamer but I'm an enthusiast gamer and I play FPS among other games... I don't want my controls to be mushy, evn slightly... I don't want ghosting or things like that... I hear conflicting info on the 1440p monitors, with some saying that the latency is not noticeable at all and gaming experience is top-notch, others saying the opposite...

Can you guys confirm that a Crossover 27Q-LED (I choose only that one so I avoid input lag) is really A-OK for gaming? Have you compared with a TN low-response monitor? (I play with one for now).


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> make sure you have the wall socket cable pushed into the brick as much as it can go (what are you using to go from brick to wall socket?), and what gpu are you using?


From the power brick to the wall socket I have tried both the korean plug with the international adapter, and a spare US power cable that I had laying around. I have made sure that both ends are firmly and securely plugged in.
I am using a 7970 Vapor-X 6GB edition AMD card.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Yeah, thanks for the input. The only thing bothering me is the custom fees, I live in France and they tax like hell here. So depnding on how I might be taxed at the custom, (again, another hit or miss) I may end up with a not-so-cheap product and I could just buy a good 1440p in my country for not that much more.
> Are the Crossover 27Q LED superior to the SAMSUNG SyncMaster S27A850D?
> Also, what makes me hesitate to pull the triggger on a 1440p is obviously the response time of these monitors. I'm not an extreme-hardcore gamer but I'm an enthusiast gamer and I play FPS among other games... I don't want my controls to be mushy, evn slightly... I don't want ghosting or things like that... I hear conflicting info on the 1440p monitors, with some saying that the latency is not noticeable at all and gaming experience is top-notch, others saying the opposite...
> Can you guys confirm that a Crossover 27Q-LED (I choose only that one so I avoid input lag) is really A-OK for gaming? Have you compared with a TN low-response monitor? (I play with one for now).


input lag is less than the 1440p competition because the non multi input monitors don't have a scaler. Input lag is about the best it's going to get on an ips 1440p monitor with any korean. No one here really recognizes significant input lag on any model really. There has been input lag test done on these forums either in this thread or the catleap against the 1440p competition.

also the samsung isn't an ips panel. it's their own tech.


----------



## DaGoat

Ah, thanks for the info on the scaler, very useful indeed. But.. If they don't have a scaler, how do they behave at other resolutions? Blu-Ray or DVDs display?

Also, Tthe Samsung's input lag is equal to zero according to this review of the Asus PB278Q that uses the same panel.

The Samsung SyncMaster S27A850D is a good 1440p and it's the less expensive in my country; indeed it uses a Samsung PLS panel while the Crossover and the Koreans use an IPS LG panel.

I've done research on monitors lately, and I had many surprises. Here's a review of the Samsung. The guy really seems to know what he's talking about (I think he contributes here at OCN). I've read several reviews and apparently the site Prad.de is a reference in monitor testing, as they test the latency / response time with an oscilloscope instead of SMTP so they have the best results... and the results are surprising... They say the Samsung S27A850D is "very good" (the best note, after "good", "satisfactory", and "sufficient").

As for the Korean monitors, unfortunately they only tested the Shimian QH270, which they noted as "satisfactory" (a not-so-good review) , the latency time was longer (very long, almost 24ms total) and the overall performance a little disappointing... Now the latency time on the Shimian may be due to the fact that it's a multi-input model, I know I'll only buy a single-input model. Though I think input lag and response time are different things?

Using other measurements, the Crossover 2720MDP (Multi-input) showed inferior response times, slightly better than the Samsung in these reviews: Samsung and Crossover

Still, I would think that a good Crossover unit is better in terms of overall display quality than the Samsung.

Have you compared the Crossover with other monitors, such as TN panels? Are you an enthusiast gamer? You don't notice any latency, the controls are not mushy, no ghosting, no blurring, nothing? At all? Sory for all these questions, I want to be sure before pulling the trigger on such a thing.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The Samsung has 13.6ms of input lag (see prad.de's review). Almost all of Hardware Info UK's input lag measurements are wrong, but close. Prad.de uses an oscilloscope and provides the most accurate results, followed by overclock.ru (smt tool 2.5) and myself (smt tool 2.5, I am the author of the wecravegamestoo reviews).

Pixel response times (ghosting) and input lag are separate (delay we feel). The CrossOver 2720MDP has low pixel response times, but a properly over driven TN panel will always win. It has 13.6ms of input lag over dual-link dvi like the Samsung.

The ViewSonic VP2770 (see prad.de's review) has faster pixel response times than the Samsung and only 7ms of input lag (which is negligible) making it the best for gaming as well as factory calibrated colors. The 2720MDP's are big dice roll in terms of image quality since IPS colour preset quality is basically random on some models (including the Koreans).


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Ah, thanks for the info on the scaler, very useful indeed. But.. If they don't have a scaler, how do they behave at other resolutions? Blu-Ray or DVDs display?
> 
> Have you compared the Crossover with other monitors, such as TN panels? Are you an enthusiast gamer? You don't notice any latency, the controls are not mushy, no ghosting, no blurring, nothing? At all? Sory for all these questions, I want to be sure before pulling the trigger on such a thing.


It is just played back at 1080 at on 1440p not really going to change anything, but I don't watch movies on my setup.

and I have compared them to my 26" lg tn panel and my 120hz acer 3d tn panel. my crossovers smoke them so bad it's not even funny. The difference is like going from a tube tv to a lcd back in early 2000s. Maybe not that drastic but 1440p ips > tn.

these are advertised at 6-8ms response time. but i think it's more around 12. not like that's going to stop you. if 12ms effects you than you need to stick with 1080 tn panel. you aren't going to notice it. Even the 2ms advertised tn panels are NOT 2ms.

I guess I am an enthusiast, but at same time I'm stupid for spending as much money as I on it all for 7680x1440 surround.


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The Samsung has 13.6ms of input lag (see prad.de's review). Almost all of Hardware Info UK's input lag measurements are wrong, but close. Prad.de uses an oscilloscope and provides the most accurate results, followed by overclock.ru (smt tool 2.5) and myself (smt tool 2.5, I am the author of the wecravegamestoo reviews).
> Pixel response times (ghosting) and input lag are separate (delay we feel). The CrossOver 2720MDP has low pixel response times, but a properly over driven TN panel will always win. It has 13.6ms of input lag over dual-link dvi like the Samsung.
> The ViewSonic VP2770 (see prad.de's review) has faster pixel response times than the Samsung and only 7ms of input lag (which is negligible) making it the best for gaming as well as factory calibrated colors. The 2720MDP's are big dice roll in terms of image quality since IPS colour preset quality is basically random on some models (including the Koreans).


Hey, very glad to see you there, I know it was you who wrote the reviews, as I said in my posts - I couldn't find your original posts on OCN.

As I said, I already knew that prad.de uses an oscilloscope for more accurate results thanks to your reviews (great work BTW







). I also knew that pixel response time and input lag were separate, as I also said in my post, but now I have a very important question: I wonder, do we have to add up both to have the total latency then? If the Samsung has say 13,6ms of input lag and up to 19,3ms of pixel response time, does it mean it has 32,6ms of total latency? So should we add input lag and pixel response time for each tested monitor to know the true latency?

Uugh The Viewsonic seems really perfect but it's way over my budget, unfortunately. You say the 2720MDP is a "dice roll" but what about the 27Q-LED then? I guess it would be the best of all Crossover monitors in terms of latency right?

+ Repped for your great contribution.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> It is just played back at 1080 at on 1440p not really going to change anything, but I don't watch movies on my setup.
> and I have compared them to my 26" lg tn panel and my 120hz acer 3d tn panel. my crossovers smoke them so bad it's not even funny. The difference is like going from a tube tv to a lcd back in early 2000s. Maybe not that drastic but 1440p ips > tn.
> these are advertised at 6-8ms response time. but i think it's more around 12. not like that's going to stop you. if 12ms effects you than you need to stick with 1080 tn panel. you aren't going to notice it. Even the 2ms advertised tn panels are NOT 2ms.
> I guess I am an enthusiast, but at same time I'm stupid for spending as much money as I on it all for 7680x1440 surround.


Oh yeah I know full well the advertised latencies are not the good ones. Even the hyper-hardcore gamer monitor Iiyama that everybody praises for being hyper fast is announced at 1 ms and is measured as a total of 7,6 to 10,2 ms in prad.de
.Well you certainly manage to convince me for these Crossovers lol. You sure seem so satisfied, I would jump on these things with eyes closed. Have you been lucky to get three without any problem? Because in this thread I've read several people receving faulty or poor-performing units.... That being said I highly value your testimony. If there was a trick to be certain to have a good one.... Well, when I look objectively, the amount of dissatisfied people is close to the amount of dissatisfied people in any review for any other monitor. The only thing is, if it is defective, shipping a huge screen to Korea is an adventure. Plus the customs, etc...I won't repeat myself again and again. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions, I've also repped you, you've been very helpful.


----------



## m.oreilly

monitor failed this evening. black lines appeared, desktop then began to fade, until nothing was visible but the backlight. tried several power bricks (from doublesight monitors, which have much more rugged transformers), different gpu, cables, tried the monitor on two other dual dvi capable systems. as soon as the monitor 'warms' up, the screen fades, does it in bios too...sucks. it looks like a perfect panel too...


----------



## Xibal

that's not good, how long have you had the monitor.


----------



## Descadent

most of the people who have had problems, didn't buy them from the best seller and if they did. they were promptly taken care of with receiving new monitors or pcbs. Only issue I had was one of the power supplies died and AW shipped me a new one in a day and half just like them monitors for free.


----------



## kevinsbane

You shouldn't have to replace PCBs in your monitor D:


----------



## NotReadyYet

What sort of input do I need to run this monitor on my video card?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You shouldn't have to replace PCBs in your monitor D:


100% agree, but when it's easier to ship a new pcb than to ship a monitor back to korea, then wait on a new one. it's to simple to do that. alot of people have simply just wanted a new pcb, but you don't have to replace your pcb's

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NotReadyYet*
> 
> What sort of input do I need to run this monitor on my video card?


as stated everywhere, even the very first post and all throughout every korean thread, listed on every ebay listing.

dl-dvi with a card that can do 2560x1440


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> monitor failed this evening. black lines appeared, desktop then began to fade, until nothing was visible but the backlight. tried several power bricks (from doublesight monitors, which have much more rugged transformers), different gpu, cables, tried the monitor on two other dual dvi capable systems. as soon as the monitor 'warms' up, the screen fades, does it in bios too...sucks. it looks like a perfect panel too...


Ouch. Where did you buy it and how old is the monitor?


----------



## NotReadyYet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> 100% agree, but when it's easier to ship a new pcb than to ship a monitor back to korea, then wait on a new one. it's to simple to do that. alot of people have simply just wanted a new pcb, but you don't have to replace your pcb's
> as stated everywhere, even the very first post and all throughout every korean thread, listed on every ebay listing.
> dl-dvi with a card that can do 2560x1440


It's weird though because I see some video cards accept these inputs:

Dvi-I (single link)
Dvi-I (dual link)
Dvi-d(single link)
Dvi-d(dual link)

Still confused about which specific dvi-d I need

Fwiw, I was look at this card...

Sapphire Radeon Vapor-X HD 7970 GHZ OC 6GB DDR5 DL-DVI-I / SL-DVI-D / HDMI / Dual Mini DP PCI-Express Graphics 11197-05-40G


----------



## Descadent

dl-dvi-i or dl dvi-d

that card will of course work. every current gen card will unless it's extremely weak and entry, maybe not


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> most of the people who have had problems, didn't buy them from the best seller and if they did. they were promptly taken care of with receiving new monitors or pcbs. Only issue I had was one of the power supplies died and AW shipped me a new one in a day and half just like them monitors for free.


guess who i bought mine from...








i don't hold out for a speedy resolve, if any. they got $420 from me, i'm on the other side of the world, can't afford to ship it back...not a very good situation, at least for me. i would never do this again, and i warn any who read these korean monitor threads to avoid falling for them. period. save up and get a real monitor like the apple glossy, or any of the new asus/sammy/dell offerings. this is not worth the hassle and your money.


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Ouch. Where did you buy it and how old is the monitor?


from AW, had it since this last friday morning, so a few days of flawless performance followed by total failure. not worth it. buy a real monitor. don't waste your time on these. any of them. the electronics are awful, and they don't care, as if they did, you would not see the massive failure rate of not just this model, but all the cheap korean monitors. i drank the coolaid. not happy with the outcome. feel like i was ripped off. my fault.


----------



## Descadent

They pay for the shipping back to them you know that right? and it's the same monitor as the "apple glossy" except for the casing, so good logic there. sound like you need to work it out with AW because there are more than enough people to prove these monitors are badass and worth it. it is still the holiday too.


----------



## m.oreilly

all i hear from forums is that they (the user/purchaser) get stuck with the shipping. haven't read a success story anywhere re seller honoring return shipping. i'm out money i could have spent at least on the microcenter 27" ips. still kicking myself for not going with that model. $30 more because of tax, but having their warranty and rep for making things good, i would have paid $150 more for peace of mind, after this epic failure...


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> from AW, had it since this last friday morning, so a few days of flawless performance followed by total failure. not worth it. buy a real monitor. don't waste your time on these. any of them. the electronics are awful, and they don't care, as if they did, you would not see the massive failure rate of not just this model, but all the cheap korean monitors. i drank the coolaid. not happy with the outcome. feel like i was ripped off. my fault.


Ouch. It sure sucks. I wouldn't like this to happen to me, even if they pay for the shipping and all, I'd still have to ship it to Korea, wait for it to ship, wait for them to ship it back... Sucks. Still, this happens. AW specifically says they pay for the shipping back and there's a warranty, you took a contract with them when you bought it, so I trust it will be sorted out. Don't just stay here and throw your monitor away when they will clearly replace it. Ship it back, I mean, what do you have to lose? I've read people who did it. Now keep us informed. Your feedback on how they treat your case will be very worth noting for all of us. AW follows this thread, they posted here several times, I don't think they want any negative feedback.

OK On another note, did anyone try the 30Q5 pro? These ones are pleasing to my eyes... they are doing sweet prices on those now. For the moment I've read nothing but people saying they're not interested in these because they're not LED








Unless I missed something it's not that big of a deal. Or is it? What's the problem? it's still an IPS panel, if they're good I'd rather take one of those, 30" 2560x1600... and 16/10 (THAT'S great).... Frankly, on the paper I prefer these models, I just don't see any feedback... Anyone?


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> most of the people who have had problems, didn't buy them from the best seller and if they did. they were promptly taken care of with receiving new monitors or pcbs. Only issue I had was one of the power supplies died and AW shipped me a new one in a day and half just like them monitors for free.


That's strange. I sent AW an email five days ago and I have yet to hear back. Maybe they're still on vacation?


----------



## Jedi21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> OK On another note, did anyone try the 30Q5 pro? These ones are pleasing to my eyes... they are doing sweet prices on those now. For the moment I've read nothing but people saying they're not interested in these because they're not LED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless I missed something it's not that big of a deal. Or is it? What's the problem? it's still an IPS panel, if they're good I'd rather take one of those, 30" 2560x1600... and 16/10 (THAT'S great).... Frankly, on the paper I prefer these models, I just don't see any feedback... Anyone?


Afaik the 30s are all matte, and after enjoying glossy I wouldn't ever go matte again..

(Also, my overclocked 6950 Toxic would be too taxed going 4K.. already having her hands full with 1440







)


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> .


I don't thing pixel response times+input lag should be added since it just causes confusion, people end up thinking the combined value=total input lag. A display can have 1ms of input lag and 44ms pixel response times for a total of 45ms which may lead people to think it is super laggy when in reality it would feel super responsive but have horrible ghosting.

All of the Korean displays are a dice roll. The CrossOver 27Q LED-P's where the first to show large variances (extreme blue tint and very low contrast), can't say if there are such extreme variances among the other brands but it is still common for low-mid range IPS to vary largely. The single input models have negligible input lag while the others have around 1 frame which is fine for all but enthusiast gamers.

Avoid the 30" models, they are wide gamut, which you don't need and all 30" displays use a very grainy matte coating and have poor black levels too. If you want a 30" save up another 3-400$ for the Dell U3014 which should come out next spring and will blow ALL of the current 30" displays out of the water.

700$ would be better spent on a display with a warranty like the Dell U2713HM, Asus PB278Q or Samsung S27A850D, all of which are not grainy, have better black levels, better colors for your uses and less ghosting too.


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi21*
> 
> Afaik the 30s are all matte, and after enjoying glossy I wouldn't ever go matte again..
> (Also, my overclocked 6950 Toxic would be too taxed going 4K.. already having her hands full with 1440
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I prefer matte to glossy in fact








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> ... .


Thanks for the info on the input lag / repsonse time etc. Useful indeed.
Why avoid the 30" models?
> I "don't need wide gamut", okay maybe I don't _need_ it, but it shouldn't hurt?
> I actually prefer matte coating over glossy displays.
> As for saving for another 30", I can forget about it, I live in France, prices here are crazy, a Dell one is 250 / 300% more expensive.
Between the Asus PB278Q or Samsung S27A850D I'd choose the Samsung as it had a very good review on prad.de that I know thanks to you, and it's by far the cheapest 1440p available here in France.
But people have told me the Samsung would be inferior to the Crossover because of the PLS technology? I don't know it, I heard it's inferior to IPS, but how? If it's still better than TN it's all good, I'm already very satified with my LG TN monitor so anything better will be noticeable.

On the subject of 30" Korean monitors, I responded to you in another thread dedicated to these 30", when you have the time to check it out... Thanks again.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> .


PLS>IPS, easily. While some IPS do offer better contrast (1200:1 IPS vs 1000:1 PLS) PLS panels are far more consistent in terms of out-of-the box colors while the same IPS monitors will be all over the place and PLS don't have burn-in or strong tinting issues unlike IPS. Other wise IPS & PLS are pretty much the same.

Wide Gamut displays are bad for non-work related uses

Wide Gamut Left vs. sRGB


















now image what it does to some ones face...sun burns for everyone! If you want a matte display get a 27." This [H] user figured us grainy AG haters were exaggerating and decided it would be best to see a 30" for himself.

sRGB vs Wide gamut


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> That's strange. I sent AW an email five days ago and I have yet to hear back. Maybe they're still on vacation?


it's about time for an ebay dispute. i also doubt i'll hear anything back but a request to ship the monitor at my own expense. mr tuba is right, unfortunately.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> That's strange. I sent AW an email five days ago and I have yet to hear back. Maybe they're still on vacation?


it is still new years day in most of the world...


----------



## m.oreilly

rather than wide gamut, which you wouldn't notice in any but certain workloads, it's the florescent backlight that may be a bit 'dull' compared to the led, at least in your shots, though i hear you re AG coating.for me, after experiencing just a glimpse of glossy, i too can't go back to matte. filing a dispute with AW by friday if i don't get a response before then. must be nice to be able to afford a vacation. oh, wait, i just paid for it...lol


----------



## m.oreilly

it's tomorrow and another work day in korea, i believe...


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> all i hear from forums is that they (the user/purchaser) get stuck with the shipping. haven't read a success story anywhere re seller honoring return shipping. i'm out money i could have spent at least on the microcenter 27" ips. still kicking myself for not going with that model. $30 more because of tax, but having their warranty and rep for making things good, i would have paid $150 more for peace of mind, after this epic failure...


checked my emails with AW since sounds like you haven't attempted a solution... this is what they told me before I bought mine

"Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.

we provide 1 year warranty,
it covers, within 30 days from your purchase, if monitor has defect/default, it may refund/replaced be on us.
After the 30 days from your purchase, since you live in USA, you may pay shipping charge to our warehouse in LA.
From the warehouse in LA to Korea, Korea to your house will be charged on us."

only thing I would have to pay would be shipping to Cali...and from nc thats $25 ups ground -_- big whoop. They pay for it to get to Korea, and ALL the way back to you. so put effort in and contact them and please don't mislead others. In most cases others have found fixes without need to ship the original back.

and anyone buying anything out of country especially electronics there is a risk involved but some sellers really make it easy on you, but it is an inherent risk. by all means if you want to spend hundreds of dollars more on the same monitor in your country go for it. More than enough that have had great success.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> it's tomorrow and another work day in korea, i believe...


it's also 6:47am there -_-


----------



## m.oreilly

they sent me no such notice, and i have sent several emails to them, detailing the issue. very dry, detached details. i love the monitor, but it doesn't work. i want a working monitor, unless they don't have any, in which case i want my money back.
my country? lol, live in california. where is this warehouse?


----------



## Descadent

In LA like I copied and pasted above.


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The ViewSonic VP2770 (see prad.de's review) has faster pixel response times than the Samsung and only 7ms of input lag (which is negligible) making it the best for gaming as well as factory calibrated colors..


How do you know that? I've checked prad.de, the viewsonic VP2770 only has a preview, not a full review, I haven't seen any info on input lag / response time.


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> In LA like I copied and pasted above.


um lol. an address/phone number? i dislike emails, as they get ignored. i like direct contact much more, that's why i asked, and yes, it's early there, but that's not what i was referring to, i was referring to it being another work day, unless they take a week off to celebrate new years...
and it is you who seem to be misleading others.


----------



## m.oreilly

if AW is all that and a side of fries, i guess we'll see how he handles it. peace


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> ///


Excellent, thanks for the info on the PLS stuff. + rep. Now your pictures are great but what models do they compare? In particular the last one, the one on the right is bigger, what is it?

OK so knowing that I hesitate to pull the trigger on a Korean monitor because of fear of dice roll, and that, if I'm out of luck on the customs, the amount is close to what i'd pay for a Samsung S27A850D in my country or even maybe a Dell U2713HM if I can manage a deal in one reseller, what would be the wisest decision for me? The Samsung? And between the Samsung and the Dell?
The main use is for gaming.


----------



## DaGoat

m.oreilly, have you ordered the rev.3? Do you have the green PCB?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> um lol. an address/phone number? i dislike emails, as they get ignored. i like direct contact much more, that's why i asked, and yes, it's early there, but that's not what i was referring to, i was referring to it being another work day, unless they take a week off to celebrate new years...
> and it is you who seem to be misleading others.


i'm misleading others? I have the experience with 3 monitors and a backup powersupply. with them. I think and claims of myself misleading anyone is false.

deal with your own issues and find out the address and number yourself, here's a hint. the address is in korea and it's a Korean phone number. instead of whining about it here why don't you go do something. I am not your liaison for AW. and it's 7:22am the first work day after new years. Give them the opportunity to help you. They are 13 hrs ahead of me, 16hrs ahead of you. good grief. That goes for any company in the world after holidays.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Excellent, thanks for the info on the PLS stuff. + rep. Now your pictures are great but what models do they compare? In particular the last one, the one on the right is bigger, what is it?
> OK so knowing that I hesitate to pull the trigger on a Korean monitor because of fear of dice roll, and that, if I'm out of luck on the customs, the amount is close to what i'd pay for a Samsung S27A850D in my country or even maybe a Dell U2713HM if I can manage a deal in one reseller, what would be the wisest decision for me? The Samsung? And between the Samsung and the Dell?
> The main use is for gaming.


My advice would be to go their respective threads if that is the route you want to take, but don't let others who don't take opportunity to get things corrected in this thread mislead you about the korean monitors. They-are-badass. That's why they are the MOST popular monitors on OCN. Great monitors, great price, and most of all IPS and 1440p


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> .


Can't go wrong with either the Samsung or Dell. Not much difference between the two, the Dell has a few more quality control issues, but if you order one from Dell they offer a hassle free return+exchange service while Samsung does not. If you can get the Samsung from a place with a hassle free return+exchange policy go for it.

The Wide gamut pictures represents all wide gamut models since they all over-saturate colors in the same way. The Dell U2711 is used in those pics.


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> My advice would be to go their respective threads if that is the route you want to take, but don't let others who don't take opportunity to get things corrected in this thread mislead you about the korean monitors. They-are-badass. That's why they are the MOST popular monitors on OCN. Great monitors, great price, and most of all IPS and 1440p


Dude, I trust you, it's just that, you know, not everyone has had the same experience as you. You were "lucky" to buy three in perfect condition, others have received faulty ones. I understand you completely, I can relate t o my experience with motherboards. I had one bad experience with MSI, one very bad experience with Gigabyte- FRIED at first boot, I raged at these brands, never bought again, since then I only buy Asus and all my boards are perfect. I've told everyone to stay the hell awya form BG and MSI for months lol. People said I was unfair with Gigabyte because many have very good experience with their boards without any problem.

I'm very tempted to try these Korean monitors, as I say, the main thing bothering me is... customs. If they stop my package, here in France I will have to pay insane fees if I'm unlucky - and they will keep it for days, paperwork to do etc.... Uuughh... While I can buy a Samsung one in my country in my reseller so I can pay in several months (can't do that on ebay), etc..

So I'll check each thread indeed for these other models indeed. Nothing is decided yet, I find the Crossovers really beautiful,

If I was certain that I wouldn't pay anything on the customs... Then this would be a steal, I'd already bought a unit one week ago


----------



## Descadent

the original response poll is gone from the OP it seems. it was like 98% of people got great working monitors most were flawless. I was definitely glad to have free trade agreement with korea on mine that's for sure. All depends on country but there hasn't been many insane custom fees I don't think throughout this thread. at least for the UK. I don't recall seeing any in France about it though, but these sellers should have some sort of an idea.


----------



## DaGoat

In the OP of a thread there was one french user, he paid 133€ ($177) of additional custom fees... An italian paid 130€... So... Yeah. You understand. This, plus the customs calling you, paperwork, waiting, hassle, sending papers, waiting, calling seller, sending invoice, waiting, re-sending, package getting inspected, re-shipped...

Imagine if I'm unlucky and I have a faulty one that I have to ship back... Then they ship me a new one, same thing, new custom fees again and new hassle again....







Get it?

European socialist countries have many advantages... And many inconveniences.


----------



## Descadent

Yeh I couldn't put up with that. So glad we got that free trade agreement.


----------



## m.oreilly

no response from AW.


----------



## DaGoat

Did you pay with Paypal m.oreilly?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> no response from AW...


that feedback....sooo many satisfied crossover buyers!
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=accessorieswhole&ftab=AllFeedback&rt=nc&myworld=true


----------



## HowHardCanItBe

Guys, could we please not start dramas? Keep it clean in here.

Thanks.


----------



## m.oreilly

yes, paid with paypal. got a message form AW, sent a video and again an explanation of issue, as whomever sent the message asked if i was trying to connect to a macbook...i hope they will read my latest message, as it is pretty much the same one i have sent several times...

AW:
Quote:


> Dear Michael,
> 
> Have you connected the monitor with Mac series? laptops?
> 
> This monitor only can be connected with PC that has compatible graphic card support DVI-D Dual link.
> If you could kindly try it again with suitable PC and it still does not work properly, will you kindly provide us video clip/photo showing its defect?
> 
> Sincerely
> 
> - accessorieswhole


my response:
Quote:


> Dear accessorieswhole,
> 
> monitor was originally connected to an x79 series asus rampage board with an ati 7970, connected via dual dvi cable provided with monitor. tried several cables, and power bricks. the monitor was then connected to three different pc with dual dvi gpu ( an nvidia gtx 680 and an nvidia gtx 570, and an nvidia 560 ti)) to again test, as i stated in my message to you, and it still failed. the monitor lasted all of 3 days. monitor will fail as soon as it has 'warmed' up (5 to 10 minutes at most),then the horizontal lines appear, at which time it will no longer show an image, unless it has been unplugged/turned off for a period of time. can the monitor be repaired or replaced with the same model? it had a perfect image, panel seemed to be A+...
> video is 51mb, how shall i upload it?
> here is a link to my file host. if you cannot download it from mediafire, pleas respond with a suitable host.
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/?wuslk3rx6fkzwdu
> 
> thank you,
> michael


i must admit i love the monitor. seeing it again to take the vid...must have a working version...


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> that feedback....sooo many satisfied crossover buyers!
> http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=accessorieswhole&ftab=AllFeedback&rt=nc&myworld=true


are you receiving a kickback of some sort? yes, if you continue to check AW feedback, you will see my very positive feedback entry. i hope AW will be able to remedy my issue in a timely manner


----------



## gezer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> In the OP of a thread there was one french user, he paid 133€ ($177) of additional custom fees... An italian paid 130€... So... Yeah. You understand. This, plus the customs calling you, paperwork, waiting, hassle, sending papers, waiting, calling seller, sending invoice, waiting, re-sending, package getting inspected, re-shipped...
> Imagine if I'm unlucky and I have a faulty one that I have to ship back... Then they ship me a new one, same thing, new custom fees again and new hassle again....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get it?
> European socialist countries have many advantages... And many inconveniences.


That is very inconvenient indeed. I live in Belgium, bought Crossover 27Q in november, had flickering issues, sent it back, got it back again last month. Both time no problem with customs. AccessoriesWhole declares the value under $100/200


----------



## m.oreilly

how is it performing now? is it the same panel, do you know?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> are you receiving a kickback of some sort? yes, if you continue to check AW feedback, you will see my very positive feedback entry. i hope AW will be able to remedy my issue in a timely manner


I wished, as many people as I have sent to them who have gotten good service and good monitors, but nope. I do the same in real life, refer everyone to amazon over just about every other brick and mortar store but that is simply due to price differences.


----------



## m.oreilly

i do that too. well, i can't wait. after seeing the crossover again this morning, it's really hard going back to the u2410...


----------



## Koehler

Yeah most Korean monitors dont come with dead pixels any more than monitors from large commercial companies.

A lot of monitors come with dead pixels these days. I've had the most problems with Benq.


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> That is very inconvenient indeed. I live in Belgium, bought Crossover 27Q in november, had flickering issues, sent it back, got it back again last month. Both time no problem with customs. AccessoriesWhole declares the value under $100/200


My scenario was if I'm unlucky and the customs intercept my package. I've already been shipped many items from the US and Japan, I never paid any custom fees, they were declared as gift and a $1 value. But it never was a 27" monitor. One time of bad luck is enough. So it's a double dice roll for me...


----------



## crzycuyler

Hello,

I know these questions are asked here all the time, but this thread is huge. I don't have the time to read through it all. I am looking to get a 27 inch monitor 2560 x 1440 for gaming. I only need the bare minimum in features. I want a dvi input and solid build quality (possibly perfect pixel option). Should I be looking for a CrossOver? If so which one?

The only feature I would even slightly be interested in are mountability and glass display

EDIT: Is this legit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-CROSSOVER-27QD-P-Pivot-2560-x-1440-27-Computer-PC-Monitor-/321041777058?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abf94c1a2

EDIT 2: I've been researching more and more today. It appears that the CrossOver 27Q is the 2560x1440 monitor to get. I am going to wait out my eager readiness to buy to see if anything comes up, but I am getting pretty excited about letting my 4GB Galaxy GTX 670 get ahold of this monitor.


----------



## borgqueenx

have my crossover for 2 weeks now and im still loving it. nothing's wrong with it.


----------



## Erdrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> have my crossover for 2 weeks now and im still loving it. nothing's wrong with it.


3 weeks for me. Only thing is the blue stuck pixels at right top and the flickering when windows loads at beginning.. Other then that I'm happy with it.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> Hello,
> I know these questions are asked here all the time, but this thread is huge. I don't have the time to read through it all. I am looking to get a 27 inch monitor 2560 x 1440 for gaming. I only need the bare minimum in features. I want a dvi input and solid build quality (possibly perfect pixel option). Should I be looking for a CrossOver? If so which one?
> The only feature I would even slightly be interested in are mountability and glass display
> EDIT: Is this legit? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-CROSSOVER-27QD-P-Pivot-2560-x-1440-27-Computer-PC-Monitor-/321041777058?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abf94c1a2
> EDIT 2: I've been researching more and more today. It appears that the CrossOver 27Q is the 2560x1440 monitor to get. I am going to wait out my eager readiness to buy to see if anything comes up, but I am getting pretty excited about letting my 4GB Galaxy GTX 670 get ahold of this monitor.


crossover 27q and pixel perfects are worth it unless you like giving money away, sellers like accessorieswhole have less than 3 dead pixels policy and only sell a panels. there might be one other seller as well.

but with any purchase you as a consumer must be informed, I suggest you definitely read the op and scan through this thread, every answer has been answered 100x


----------



## crzycuyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> crossover 27q and pixel perfects are worth it unless you like giving money away, sellers like accessorieswhole have less than 3 dead pixels policy and only sell a panels. there might be one other seller as well.
> but with any purchase you as a consumer must be informed, I suggest you definitely read the op and scan through this thread, every answer has been answered 100x


Cool, thanks. I've decided I want the CrossOver 27Q. I just have to decide who I want it from and what deal is best. I'll look in the seller you've mentioned.

EDIT: This seller has the less than 3 dead pixels policy? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033

Where can I find that information?


----------



## tr1xst3r

It says under the info:

"Understanding our pixel warranty policy
Defective Pixel (Include Dead/Stuck/Sub Pixel ) : 3 maximum"

that is AW's policy.


----------



## Jethric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> it is still new years day in most of the world...


Yes I got a response. Hopefully I'll get this resolved soon. I saw your post about the shipping to the LA warehouse. I may just end up having to do that.


----------



## m.oreilly

well, now they want me to open up the monitor and tug at stuff...after talking to an electrical engineer, it looks like a pcb component issue, so i'm not going to bother with possibly damaging the monitor further by disassembling it...i hope they get the gist here...


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> well, now they want me to open up the monitor and tug at stuff...after talking to an electrical engineer, it looks like a pcb component issue, so i'm not going to bother with possibly damaging the monitor further by disassembling it...i hope they get the gist here...


I don't get what your problem is. You paid a cheaper price to get this monitor from Korea, so you need to do some of the most basic troublshooting steps yourself... this would include checking to see if any cables came loose during shipping. It doesn't make any sense for them to let you ship the monitor back until they can be sure it's not just a loose cable that takes two seconds to plug back in.

If you are being told the steps you need to do, just follow them.


----------



## m.oreilly

hey, it works...i'll wait for a day or three before i say it is 'fixed', but the thing is so dang pretty, i had to go against my better judgment and tear it down...a caveat, a possible one, with these. future buyers, take note: you may have to take it apart to see if it works...


----------



## Kent3888

Anybody kind enough to clarify this for me?

Can I connect the Crossover 2720MDP LED Gold to my laptop with Display Port output directly and able to display full resolution 2560X1440P. I'm using a HP Envy 15 with build in ATI 7690M. Please enlighten me. Appreciate your feedback.

below link is my laptop model if u need to know.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=sg&lc=en&dlc=en&docname=c03202976

I'm dying to find out as I got email reply from Accessories Whole that these monitor does not support laptop display AT ALL?


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kent3888*
> 
> Anybody kind enough to clarify this for me?
> Can I connect the Crossover 2720MDP LED Gold to my laptop with Display Port output directly and able to display full resolution 2560X1440P. I'm using a HP Envy 15 with build in ATI 7690M. Please enlighten me. Appreciate your feedback.
> below link is my laptop model if u need to know.
> http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=sg&lc=en&dlc=en&docname=c03202976
> I'm dying to find out as I got email reply from Accessories Whole that these monitor does not support laptop display AT ALL?


There shouldn't be any problem as far as I can see. I have the 2720MDP myself and I have been using a 6 year old MBP connected via DVI at 2560x1440. I think a couple of other users here have been using their laptops at 2560x1440 via Display Port too.


----------



## Burenkoigor

Hello to all. Sorry my English is not perfect.
I Have Crossover 2720 MDP Gold - and it have that problem.
The problem is that the display is twofold. After 20 minutes of work The image appears on the original copy of the displaced for a couple of pixels up.
Lights working properly. Please look the video.







I am unplug monitor from computer and turn on OSD MENU. The problem the problem persists continuously
Thanks to all who can help me in my problem


----------



## Kent3888

U have Dual Link DVI on your MBP? or u using mini DP on ur MBP then use active adapter to Dual Link DVI?


----------



## Burenkoigor

del


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> well, now they want me to open up the monitor and tug at stuff...after talking to an electrical engineer, it looks like a pcb component issue, so i'm not going to bother with possibly damaging the monitor further by disassembling it...i hope they get the gist here...


just be a man and open it up, you realize if it's a pcb issue it's plug and play and you won't even have to spend the money to send it to their warehouse and they can overnight you a pcb. it's literally plug and play and maybe a few screws!

and calm down. no need to flip the hell out and attack other members. AW is trying to work with you here and they are trying to narrow down the problem before you spend the money and they spend the money if it is as simple as something like the pcb. even your "electrical engineer" should know that.

It is a cheaper option for all parties to just check if it's the pcb. several members have already done this and turnover time is alot faster and cheaper for everyone instead of shipping old monitor back. them replacing it pcb for you or sending you a new one from korea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> hey, it works...i'll wait for a day or three before i say it is 'fixed', but the thing is so dang pretty, i had to go against my better judgment and tear it down...a caveat, a possible one, with these. future buyers, take note: you may have to take it apart to see if it works...


so after all that rage, it's fixed? "contents may have shifted during flight"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kent3888*
> 
> Anybody kind enough to clarify this for me?
> Can I connect the Crossover 2720MDP LED Gold to my laptop with Display Port output directly and able to display full resolution 2560X1440P. I'm using a HP Envy 15 with build in ATI 7690M. Please enlighten me. Appreciate your feedback.
> below link is my laptop model if u need to know.
> http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=sg&lc=en&dlc=en&docname=c03202976
> I'm dying to find out as I got email reply from Accessories Whole that these monitor does not support laptop display AT ALL?


The monitor has a dp port, your laptop has a display port. As long as the 7690 supports 2560x1440 then yes.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kent3888*
> 
> U have Dual Link DVI on your MBP? or u using mini DP on ur MBP then use active adapter to Dual Link DVI?


Dual Link DVI.


----------



## Kent3888

Thanks for clarifying and boost my confidence, I have proceed to order a 2720MDP LED Gold from AW, yohoo shud reach me by Next Wednesday if everything goes right


----------



## Burenkoigor

So will anybody can help me????


----------



## brettjv

This thread has been cleaned and the profanity removed ... that includes quotes of profanity, in case you're wondering where your post went


----------



## kattzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burenkoigor*
> 
> So will anybody can help me????


I'm no expert when it comes to things like this, but problems occurring after a certain amount of time is usually caused by components overheating. If you can recreate the problem by just having the screen on for 20-ish minutes then I'd say there isn't sufficient cooling on either one of the the circut boards.


----------



## dma-k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> The new ports are considered 1.3a
> If your buying a moitor that says it has 1.3a, then yea I "assume" it goes up to 2560x1440. Never tried it myself but that was specs says.
> As for the limitation yea, its just how it is. the 1080p market is saturated and all other hdmi connections are just at 1080.


Has anyone tried 2560x1440 resolution on latest Crossover 2720MDP LED GOLD? eBay description says it supports this resolution via HDMI.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dma-k*
> 
> Has anyone tried 2560x1440 resolution on latest Crossover 2720MDP LED GOLD? eBay description says it supports this resolution via HDMI.


I personally don't think that you can do 2560x1440 via HDMI on the 2720MDP. In all likelihood, it would max out at 1920x1200. Here's a user post to clarify your doubts - http://goo.gl/ikpb7
Not too sure about the 2730MDP though.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> I personally don't think that you can do 2560x1440 via HDMI on the 2720MDP. In all likelihood, it would max out at 1920x1080. Here's a user post to clarify your doubts - http://goo.gl/ikpb7
> Not too sure about the 2730MDP though.


The graphics card would have to support it too, I don't think the macbook he used does.


----------



## Descadent

hdmi doesn't have bandwidth to do it. but there is some amd tech that will do something with hdmi and higher resolution, but I can't remember what that was.

but as of right now 1080p is max for hdmi and on the multi input monitors that hdmi is mostly likely there for alternate connections like consoles and what not, but still 1080p


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> hdmi doesn't have bandwidth to do it. but there is some amd tech that will do something with hdmi and higher resolution, but I can't remember what that was.
> but as of right now 1080p is max for hdmi and on the multi input monitors that hdmi is mostly likely there for alternate connections like consoles and what not, but still 1080p


HDMI 1.4 has the bandwidth and supports the resolution. You need a GPU and monitor that support it as well... some of these monitors claim to support HDMI 1.4 and 2560x1440 over it.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> HDMI 1.4 has the bandwidth and supports the resolution. You need a GPU and monitor that support it as well... some of these monitors claim to support HDMI 1.4 and 2560x1440 over it.


I think the Crossover 2730MDP does come with a HDMI1.4 port. Is that correct?


----------



## Descadent

there is no such thing as hdmi 1.4 anymore as they changed the name of it. Simply just hdmi or high speed hdmi. while yes hdmi can support up to 1440p, the card may not push it and only certain cards can do that over hdmi. I want to say you can over hdmi with the crossover because they do advertise that it can, but you would need the correct gpu. If I recall correctly.


----------



## Crazy9000

The ad I'm thinking of says 2560x1440 over HDMI, so it should work. You may want to ask the seller specifically just in case. You would want to double check about your GPU first as well... if you're trying to do it from a laptop, chances are it won't support it. I know my Lenovo laptop only supports 1920x1200 over HDMI.

I read awhile back the macbooks can do 2560x1440 over HDMI, but OS X can't (or won't)...


----------



## Timed

Hello I ordered my crossover 27q from

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170875589678&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160

I was wondering if I need the power adapter from ebay suggested on the first page or am I okay?


----------



## domino66

Apologies if this has been addressed in the previous 437 pages

My laptop has a NVidia GT540M card with DisplayPort and HDMI ports. The DisplayPort is *supposed* to be able to drive 2560x1440 (right?)

*But all of the Korean manufacturer listings on eBay say things like *THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH LAPTOPS*. Even in listings for the the Crossover 2720MDP model I'm looking at, WHICH HAS A DISPLAYPORT PORT.*

So are they just being cautious, or what? Why would this monitor magically work with a desktop and not a laptop?

And another question: will DisplayPort alone be able to get the max 2560x1440 from this monitor? The 2720MDP monitor has a DP input...but again, the seller's info says "recommended with dual-link DVI"...it doesn't say explicitly whether, even though it has a DP port, DP will achieve the max 2560x1440 resolution.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domino66*
> 
> Apologies if this has been addressed in the previous 437 pages
> My laptop has a NVidia GT540M card with DisplayPort and HDMI ports. The DisplayPort is *supposed* to be able to drive 2560x1440 (right?)
> *But all of the Korean manufacturer listings on eBay say things like *THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH LAPTOPS*. Even in listings for the the Crossover 2720MDP model I'm looking at, WHICH HAS A DISPLAYPORT PORT.*
> So are they just being cautious, or what? Why would this monitor magically work with a desktop and not a laptop?
> And another question: will DisplayPort alone be able to get the max 2560x1440 from this monitor? The 2720MDP monitor has a DP input...but again, the seller's info says "recommended with dual-link DVI"...it doesn't say explicitly whether, even though it has a DP port, DP will achieve the max 2560x1440 resolution.


Display port should be safe, it's just fairly rare on laptops. The laptop warning is because people will buy HDMI to XYZ adapters and expect them to work, then try to RMA the monitor.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domino66*
> 
> Apologies if this has been addressed in the previous 437 pages
> My laptop has a NVidia GT540M card with DisplayPort and HDMI ports. The DisplayPort is *supposed* to be able to drive 2560x1440 (right?)
> *But all of the Korean manufacturer listings on eBay say things like *THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH LAPTOPS*. Even in listings for the the Crossover 2720MDP model I'm looking at, WHICH HAS A DISPLAYPORT PORT.*
> So are they just being cautious, or what? Why would this monitor magically work with a desktop and not a laptop?
> And another question: will DisplayPort alone be able to get the max 2560x1440 from this monitor? The 2720MDP monitor has a DP input...but again, the seller's info says "recommended with dual-link DVI"...it doesn't say explicitly whether, even though it has a DP port, DP will achieve the max 2560x1440 resolution.


There's shouldn't be any issue, I think. This guy here - http://goo.gl/ikpb7 had a Macbook(Pro I think) and he was able to get 2560x1440 over Display Port on the 2720MDP by using a simple Mini Display Port(MBP) to Display Port(2720MDP) adapter. Also, another user had an iMac and he was able to get 2560x1440 on the 2720MDP over Display Port by using the same http://goo.gl/jvjzv adapter. Hope that helps.


----------



## Kent3888

Thanks bro..... this really helps! I've placed my order! Cant wait to get my hands on it....


----------



## TarballX

Well, after 6 months, it seems like I'm starting to have issues with my 27Q. The screen flickers for a while when it's first turned on, then the picture just goes black. The blue light stays on, which seems to indicate that it's receiving a signal, but the backlight is off and it doesn't display anything.
Also, disconnecting and reconnecting the DVI cable brings the picture back for a little while (less than 30 seconds usually), but it still flickers, and then goes out. Turining the monitor on and off does the same.
Has anyone else had an issue like this? Could it be the power supply (which would be easy to replace)?

Edit: Turned off the monitor for about 10 minutes, then turned it back on. Seems to be alright now, though I'm still a little worried about what caused it in the first place.


----------



## Descadent

sounds like loose connection somewhere, but keep an eye on it if it does it again


----------



## Drakan290

I BELIEVE (don't quote me on this though) that the 1600p HDMI standard is 1.4a , which also has the bandwidth for 3d applications too. I think.

I do believe it's a different cable layout though, so a regular "HDMI" cable isn't going to work, it'd require a 1.4a cable.


----------



## chill1217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Well, after 6 months, it seems like I'm starting to have issues with my 27Q. The screen flickers for a while when it's first turned on, then the picture just goes black. The blue light stays on, which seems to indicate that it's receiving a signal, but the backlight is off and it doesn't display anything.
> Also, disconnecting and reconnecting the DVI cable brings the picture back for a little while (less than 30 seconds usually), but it still flickers, and then goes out. Turining the monitor on and off does the same.
> Has anyone else had an issue like this? Could it be the power supply (which would be easy to replace)?
> Edit: Turned off the monitor for about 10 minutes, then turned it back on. Seems to be alright now, though I'm still a little worried about what caused it in the first place.


which revision/PC board do you have?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drakan290*
> 
> I BELIEVE (don't quote me on this though) that the 1600p HDMI standard is 1.4a , which also has the bandwidth for 3d applications too. I think.
> I do believe it's a different cable layout though, so a regular "HDMI" cable isn't going to work, it'd require a 1.4a cable.


correct except there is no such thing as 1.4 anymore. it's just hdmi or high speed hdmi. any current hdmi cable you buy is "1.4" just not called that anymore because it was confusing hell out of people


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kent3888*
> 
> Thanks bro..... this really helps! I've placed my order! Cant wait to get my hands on it....


if you have never used an ips monitor, especially at 2560 without AG, it will blow your socks off. i actually went through some sort of withdrawal until i found my specific issue with mine.i love my crossover, it is totally awesome. enjoy!


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chill1217*
> 
> which revision/PC board do you have?


I don't know, how would I tell? The serial number on the back starts with 201206, so I assume that means it was produced in June 2012.


----------



## Xibal

i'm pretty sure it's that, if it was produced in june, you might have the blue pcb for the led lights that causes the backlight to be off due to burnt out mosfets.


----------



## crzycuyler

I'm nearly ready to pull the trigger. Can I get a little encouragement? Or can someone tell me I am looking at the best option out there if I need no features? I have OCD in many areas. Making the best decision out of the given alternatives is one of them. Then I just hope the panel has no defects, dead pixels, or abnormal backlight bleed.

Edit: Am I going crazy, or are these selling cheaper than the catleaps right now?

Also, what is this Crossover 27QD?


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> i'm pretty sure it's that, if it was produced in june, you might have the blue pcb for the led lights that causes the backlight to be off due to burnt out mosfets.


Great...
That doesn't really explain why it would flicker and then start working again, though, would it? It seems like it'd just up and die once the mosfets die. Is there any way to purchase a new PCB?


----------



## Xibal

If it's flickering, something could be loose as well (maybe a connection wire), in anycase I would contact your seller, explain the problem and see what they can do. You should be able to get the new pcb for free since you're still under warranty. Pretty much do whatever it takes to avoid shipping the entire monitor back.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Great...
> That doesn't really explain why it would flicker and then start working again, though, would it? It seems like it'd just up and die once the mosfets die. Is there any way to purchase a new PCB?


Yes.

Contact your seller


----------



## crzycuyler

I just ordered the 27Q LED-P from AW. It was fairly pricey, but I want to do this right.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> I'm nearly ready to pull the trigger. Can I get a little encouragement? Or can someone tell me I am looking at the best option out there if I need no features? I have OCD in many areas. Making the best decision out of the given alternatives is one of them. Then I just hope the panel has no defects, dead pixels, or abnormal backlight bleed.
> Edit: Am I going crazy, or are these selling cheaper than the catleaps right now?
> Also, what is this Crossover 27QD?


Yes that's the best choice. I've seen the Crossover 27Q LED in person and it's got the most classy design out of all the Korean monitors and the image quality is excellent. The back of the monitor looks very premium and well designed.


----------



## JoCaCe

Hi, I just bought a Crossover 2730MD monitor. Been playing around with it a couple days and so far so good on the display itself, but I'm having a bit of a brainteaser with regard to hooking up 2 PCs to it. I got one of the PCs on the DVI-D input, and now I'm trying to connect the desktop#2 at 2560x1440 as well. Since the 2730MD has a HDMI 1.4a input so I'm thinking maybe I'll use displayport to HDMI adapter and a high speed HDMI cable then voila I have 2 2560x1440 inputs to the monitor. Well, it didn't work out the way I had hoped. I'm not even getting a video signal out from the desktop#2. This DP->HDMI patchwork worked fine without any hassle from my laptop with NVIDIA Quadro 1000M . But no joy from the desktop#2.

Here are the specs for desktop#2:
i2500K
Gigabyte Z68X-UD3H-B3
Radeon 5570 with latest Catalyst driver (not being used)
32G RAM, SSD

I'm using the displayport out of the motherboard which I assume is fed from the IGP HD3000.

Any thoughts as to why there is no video from the display port? Thanks.


----------



## Descadent

doesn't the 2730md monitor have display port? and that's your problem, you can't go dp to hdmi adapter., unless there is one out there that does and is an active adapter. Those adapters only go up to 1080 usually


----------



## JoCaCe

I believe the 2720 model has a DP input but the 2730 I have does not unfortunately. I knew this when I purchased it. Anyway I was able to hook up my laptop's DP out to the 2730's HDMI input with such adapter and got a 2560x1440 signal at 54Hz. Whether I have the same success from my desktop remains to be seen since right now the 2730 is not even detecting any signal.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoCaCe*
> 
> I believe the 2720 model has a DP input but the 2730 I have does not unfortunately. I knew this when I purchased it. Anyway I was able to hook up my laptop's DP out to the 2730's HDMI input with such adapter and got a 2560x1440 signal at 54Hz. Whether I have the same success from my desktop remains to be seen since right now the 2730 is not even detecting any signal.


You need DP to make the 1440p compatible with the laptop.


----------



## Arctic Storm

I'm thinking of getting a Crossover 27 non-pivot. Would it be worth it to get the Pixel perfect version from AW over the non-Pixel perfect? The difference is 100 dollars! If the first one it something I like I plan on purchasing a second! AW has a guarantee of less than 3 dead/stuck/sub pixels anyways, would you even be able to see a dead or stuck pixel at 1440 from say 60cm away?


----------



## vuman619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arctic Storm*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a Crossover 27 non-pivot. Would it be worth it to get the Pixel perfect version from AW over the non-Pixel perfect? The difference is 100 dollars! If the first one it something I like I plan on purchasing a second! AW has a guarantee of less than 3 dead/stuck/sub pixels anyways, would you even be able to see a dead or stuck pixel at 1440 from say 60cm away?


in regards to seeing a dead pixel on a 1440p monitor at 60cm or even 40cm away, imagine a speck of dust and quarter that, you will not be able to see a couple unless you use the specialised programs and stare closely at the screen


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arctic Storm*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting a Crossover 27 non-pivot. Would it be worth it to get the Pixel perfect version from AW over the non-Pixel perfect? The difference is 100 dollars! If the first one it something I like I plan on purchasing a second! AW has a guarantee of less than 3 dead/stuck/sub pixels anyways, would you even be able to see a dead or stuck pixel at 1440 from say 60cm away?


pixel perfects aren't worth it especially with AW only selling A panels and less than 3 pixel policy. I feel like we say this on every page lol

you aren't even guaranteed pixel perfect from dell,hp,apple,etc.


----------



## kevinsbane

Pixel Perfect is marketing at its best. People asked for it, so manufacturers are "giving" it. In a way that lets them charge more for _absolutely no net benefit to the consumer_. Please do not fall for this marketing gimmick. It's way worse than retina branded displays. Don't buy into the scam! It is already having an insidious effect on the ebay market for these monitors by reducing the apparent quality of non-"PP" monitors. Not to mention that PP doesn't mean every pixel is perfect anyways. All it means is that someone checked the panel - and if it had a hot pixel, then it was discarded from the batch. A batch of inherently flawed panels; they are graded A- panels _for a reason_. So you are getting a panel without a bright pixel defect - with a much higher chance of a different defect being present. And you still paid more for it. And people have _still_ gotten bright pixel defects with PP. And it still doesn't cover dead pixels.


----------



## m.oreilly

mine is a an A panel (no dead/stuck pixels, 'normal' ips bleed, no weird hues, etc.), and i believe it was the cheapest crossover AW had at the time. you have just as good of a chance getting a perfect panel without the "perfect pixel" option


----------



## 1337smiley

Warning

Do not buy from Red-Cap if you are going for a pixel perfect.

This is what i got, and i'm contacting the seller now to try to resolve it.


----------



## Arctic Storm

Just the answers i was looking for! Im going to grab one, and if that goes well ill get a second to replace both my samsung 24" monitors ive been using for a while! Thanks for the good responses, i figured it was mostly a marketing ploy.


----------



## crzycuyler

I just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P! I purchased it two days ago, and it arrived today. That's ridiculous shipping!

Backlight bleed is meh... A little more than I wanted. But my concern is with stuck pixels. I having several glowing pixels. Can I get rid of these?


----------



## kprime

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-CROSSOVER-27QD-P-Pivot-2560-x-1440-27-QHD-S-IPS-Computer-PC-Monitor-/221118538794?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337bb1242a

Good value? Anyone else purchased from this seller?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> I just got my Crossover 27Q LED-P! I purchased it two days ago, and it arrived today. That's ridiculous shipping!
> Backlight bleed is meh... A little more than I wanted. But my concern is with stuck pixels. I having several glowing pixels. Can I get rid of these?


you can try and massage them out


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kprime*
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-CROSSOVER-27QD-P-Pivot-2560-x-1440-27-QHD-S-IPS-Computer-PC-Monitor-/221118538794?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337bb1242a
> Good value? Anyone else purchased from this seller?


PLEASE read the thread, if you even read two posts up from yours you would see an example of redcap


----------



## Xaxos

Received my Crossover 27Q from Dream-Seller yesterday and couldn't be happier. I purchased the regular version and got it 5 days after placing my order. No deal pixels, and no noticeable backlight bleed at all. Good stuff.


----------



## amazing235

Good day Everyone.

This is Nancy Kim from Accessorieswhole.

I missed Merry christmas and Happy new year greetings to all, forgive me for the late wishes and I have to tell you, I missed OCN members so much









So far, I have read up to page 420.

I've seen some frustration upon Korean monitor vs Dell/HP/Apple so on.
Return/repair policy about Korean sellers on Ebay-
and some complaints about me being absence on responde and not made proper action on defective monitors but Thank you for those great buyers who purchased monitor from AW and being representative for me. I had several moment that I wanted to jump in and make full explanations but at the end, it was worth to provide utmost customer service to buyers which it came back to AW as great favor. Sincerely appreciate your kindness to be stand on AW's side and assist others in proper ways. Thank you.

(Personal Note to:
Descadent : Cograts for having a baby. Is it a boy or a girl? Hope to hear a world best news from you soon-.
Cloudz00x : If I'm correct, I'm holding a pixel perfect monitor for you to make a replacement as I promised. So, now you can have a beautiful triple pixel perfect CrossOver monitors as you wanted. So, please contact me at my email as you know.







)

It's been a long time for me to write a post on OCN.
The Last thing I remember was that AW was trying to get more pixel perfect and standard monitors from CrossOver.

Surely we have stocks of CrossOver now.
Finally have managed to hold on few of pixel perfect monitors. (You have to check our listings carefully because as soon as we do not have stock of PP, we will increase the price up to $999).

For the potential buyers,
please understand that AW provide 1 year warranty as it is on the product description but it does not mean we take your monitor back at our charge in whole year.
The return can be done within 30 days from monitor purchased date and we provide any necessary services to repair monitors after 30 days.
We've been providing power adapter and PCB board at our cost for those who needs and requests but we need to know exact monitor condition to provide supplies.
I kept and keep customer sales history to provide proper services because ebay only show history up to 90 days.
Some of buyers who purchased early to mid in 2012 may have sudden death of monitor which caused from faulty PCB board.
But, we do not want to assume or estimate problem and arrange PCB board because we also get limited quantities of PCB from CrossOver and wanted to provide correct service at once than try this and that.

If you think you received faulty unit, please don't hesitate to contact me.
But, please prepare its diagnosis for us to provide prompt and easy process.
Honestly, I'm dying with loaded messages just telling me " Monitor defective. I need my money back. "
Please understand that I will do my best at my position. Please do your best at your position too.

All I need is that provide me few information when you contact me as below:
1. Graphic card specification (If it is compatible, please try to connect monitor with different monitor to check graphic card functionality)
2. Power adapter status/condition
3. Disconnect all cables and connect cables tightly again. (If you have spare part, please try it)
4. If monitor still shows flickering, DOA, then, provide me picture/video clip.

IF you purchased during May - Sept and monitor suddenly died,
1. Please open up the housing and check PCB board condition for us.
Mostly it has blue PCB and has burned mark. Which we can provide new PCB for replacement.

Please understand that,
We have 2 kinds of monitors
1. Standard monitor
- unboxing, inspected from AW's warehouse before arrange its shipment. It MAY have up to 3 dead/stuck/sub pixels.

2. Pixel Perfect monitor
- unboxing, inspected from AW's warehouse before arrange its shipment.
But, It does not mean we guarantee Perfect monitor without any backlight bleed or bit of yellow tint on bottom of monitor screen.
Beside of perfect pixel quality, other conditions are exactly same as standard monitors.

If you could kindly follow this process, (and help me to get fewer messages to assist) then, I may suggest new year's promotion to my Boss.

Alrighty,
I have 20+ pages to go.

Hope I could read good reviews and happy news from OCN to comfort me.

P.S -> we managed to set our office at LA but failed to launch our online business on Amazon.com.
Currently we only maintained few sales on accessorieswhole-uk.hostedbyamazon.co.uk
It was my fault to lose our sales previliege on Amazon.com by lack of my knowledge on Amazon policy. which is very different compare to Ebay... Oh well.... haha..

Once again, Happy new year and wish you all best!!!


----------



## DaGoat

Hello al,

There is still one thing that is left unclear to me.

The DVI-D port thing.
As I understand, the video card must have a DVI-D dual link and not a DVI-D Single link. Does this mean that the card must have TWO DVI-D ports?

So far I'm only aware of a difference between DVI-I (analog) and DVI-D (digital).
My 580 cards have two DVI-D and two HDMI, I want to upgrade to GTX 680, I saw that many cards nowadays have one DVI-D, one DVI-I, HDMI and display port.

Is the DVI-D on the 670 / 680 the good one? DVI-D "dual link"? What does "dual link" mean anyway? And for the people running three monitors with one or two 680's, how do you do?

Descadent, I see you have 3 monitors with two 670's. So you only have two DVI-D ports. How do you do to plug the 3 monitors?

PLEASE someone clear that up for me, I need to know before upgrading my GPU and / or buying this monitor.

Thanks.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Hello al,
> There is still one thing that is left unclear to me.
> The DVI-D port thing.
> As I understand, the video card must have a DVI-D dual link and not a DVI-D Single link. Does this mean that the card must have TWO DVI-D ports?
> So far I'm only aware of a difference between DVI-I (analog) and DVI-D (digital).
> My 580 cards have two DVI-D and two HDMI, I want to upgrade to GTX 680, I saw that many cards nowadays have one DVI-D, one DVI-I, HDMI and display port.
> Is the DVI-D on the 670 / 680 the good one? DVI-D "dual link"? What does "dual link" mean anyway? And for the people running three monitors with one or two 680's, how do you do?
> Descadent, I see you have 3 monitors with two 670's. So you only have two DVI-D ports. How do you do to plug the 3 monitors?
> PLEASE someone clear that up for me, I need to know before upgrading my GPU and / or buying this monitor.
> Thanks.


DVI comes in two flavours of links - single link and dual link.
DVI also comes in 3 flavours of connectors - DVI-D (digital), DVI-A (analogue) and DVI-I (integrated).

DVI-I is the same thing as DVI-D + DVI-A.
Dual link versus single link affects the bandwidth and the physical number of "lanes" available for transmission. Both dual link and single link DVI is a single DVI port, just with a different number of pins. See below:


YOu have a 580 - thus you have 2x dual link DVI ports - and both of which are either DVI-I or DVI-D connections (what you need). The GTX 680 is also a 2x dual link DVI part - one of which is a DVI-I and one of which is DVI-D port. Neither of which will cause you any problems. Ignore DVI-I/DVI-D - there is no functional difference _unless you plan on running VGA/d-sub_. All you need to know is that you have 2 dual link DVI ports (DL-DVI) on your NVidia cards.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Descadent, I see you have 3 monitors with two 670's. So you only have two DVI-D ports. How do you do to plug the 3 monitors?
> PLEASE someone clear that up for me, I need to know before upgrading my GPU and / or buying this monitor.
> Thanks.


I have 4 dvi ports, two dl-dvi-d and two dl-dvi-i. two monitors in 1 card, 1 monitor in 2nd card, and when I feel like it the 4th accessory monitor in hdmi.


----------



## DaGoat

Thanks to both of you for your explanations.

+ Rep for you two.

So.... Technically, if one wants to run 3 monitors on a single card, that means he would have to use 2 DVI and 1 HDMI - So to have at least one monitor with an HDMI port?

@ DescadentI find it surprising that you use both DVI-I and DVI-D in your case,. I always heard that DVI-I is not "real" DVI as it's analog. Is it the same quality of display?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Thanks to both of you for your explanations.
> + Rep for you two.
> So.... Technically, if one wants to run 3 monitors on a single card, that means he would have to use 2 DVI and 1 HDMI - So to have at least one monitor with an HDMI port?
> @ DescadentI find it surprising that you use both DVI-I and DVI-D in your case,. I always heard that DVI-I is not "real" DVI as it's analog. Is it the same quality of display?


for 3 korean monitors and 1 card with nvidia 670 as example. Both dvi to two monitors then you would need a display port to dl-dvi active adapter coming from card to monitor, but don't expect to game at 1440p surround with only 1 card.

dl-dvi-i and dl-dvi-d do the SAME thing. for exception that dvi-i allows you to use single link dvi or dual link dvi. There is no difference between dl-dvi-i and dl-dvi-d when you have a dl-dvi monitor plugged into either port. Exactly as the picture posted above. dl-dvi-i works like regular ole dvi when you have a single link dvi monitor plugged into it too.

all dvi's are digital whether they are dl or sl. the only dvi that is analog is dvi-a


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Thanks to both of you for your explanations.
> + Rep for you two.
> So.... Technically, if one wants to run 3 monitors on a single card, that means he would have to use 2 DVI and 1 HDMI - So to have at least one monitor with an HDMI port?
> @ DescadentI find it surprising that you use both DVI-I and DVI-D in your case,. I always heard that DVI-I is not "real" DVI as it's analog. Is it the same quality of display?


If you find one monitor that has HDMI 1.4, you can run it that way. I have my doubts as to whether these monitors use HDMI 1.4 though. I know Dell's U2711/U2713hm do not use HDMI 1.4. If I were you, I'd stick to running 1440p displays off of DL-DVI or DisplayPort.


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Good day Everyone.
> This is Nancy Kim from Accessorieswhole.
> I missed Merry christmas and Happy new year greetings to all, forgive me for the late wishes and I have to tell you, I missed OCN members so much


hi nancy, thanks for checking in








thank you so much for your support efforts. my crossover monitor is running beautifully!!!


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> DVI comes in two flavours of links - single link and dual link.
> DVI also comes in 3 flavours of connectors - DVI-D (digital), DVI-A (analogue) and DVI-I (integrated).
> DVI-I is the same thing as DVI-D + DVI-A.
> Dual link versus single link affects the bandwidth and the physical number of "lanes" available for transmission. Both dual link and single link DVI is a single DVI port, just with a different number of pins. See below:.


Careful using those images to determine if a port is dual link or not. The video card will always have the full number if pins regardless of the port being single or dual link.


----------



## chill1217

in cloudz00x's review here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors

he recommends using premium cables
Quote:


> The DVI-D cable and Power cable that are provided are great but we can drastically improve performance and longevity with a higher copper wire thickness and quality.
> I personally chose to increased the AWG count, more copper is better.
> All cables were bought from Monoprice.com
> 
> 6ft 14AWG Power Cord Cable w/ 3 Conductor PC Power Connector Socket (C13/5-15P) - Black
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5292&seq=1&format=2
> 
> 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


does anybody else have experience changing the cables, and do you see any performance difference?

i'm wondering if these cables are worth ordering


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chill1217*
> 
> in cloudz00x's review here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors
> he recommends using premium cables
> does anybody else have experience changing the cables, and do you see any performance difference?
> i'm wondering if these cables are worth ordering


Not unless you run an overclockable monitor - of which this is not. So no, the difference in cables is nil (unless you're running a 30 metre cable that is).


----------



## Descadent

I'm using the dvi cables that came with my 3 and the adapter for the korean power plug. I need to buy a new power cord cable I guess for all 3 so I can cut out the adapter. Wouldn't hurt and they are butt cheap


----------



## sinsang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaxos*
> 
> Received my Crossover 27Q from Dream-Seller yesterday and couldn't be happier. I purchased the regular version and got it 5 days after placing my order. No deal pixels, and no noticeable backlight bleed at all. Good stuff.


Congrats on your monitor.

I also ordered from dream-seller. Just waiting for it to arrive! Pretty excited! I was wondering if you had to buy a new power brick for 120v? or was the one that shipped 120v compatible?


----------



## Arctic Storm

Just ordered a Crossover 27Q (non pivot) from AW, ordered yesterday, shipped today! FEDEX expected delivery is Jan 14th to Alberta, Canada.
Pretty pumped to compare it to my two 24" samsung (1080). If this monitor turns out well i replace my second monitor with one as well!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arctic Storm*
> 
> Just ordered a Crossover 27Q (non pivot) from AW, ordered yesterday, shipped today! FEDEX expected delivery is Jan 14th to Alberta, Canada.
> Pretty pumped to compare it to my two 24" samsung (1080). If this monitor turns out well i replace my second monitor with one as well!


be on the lookout fedex just shows that but You might have it before the weekend.

all 3 of mine had estimated dates of 5 days after they actually got here. took day and half from korea to u.s. Not sure about canadian customs handles it though if that would slow you down.


----------



## amazing235

Hey,
This is Nancy kim from AW.

We just began our promotion for CrossOver monitors and now we are able to provide PP (Pixel perfect) monitors.

Please visit our store to check and we are welcome to receive any questions and requests.

Please do not compare with any of those sellers who provided monitor at lowest price and never came back to solve problems/issue caused on monitors.

As I finally finish monitoring OCN, I've reported Lightnspace to CrossOver for not qualified seller for dealing CrossOver products.
It is very cruel for me to make a report but it is necessary to keep CrossOver product reputation and quality.

I also fully acknolwedge on that I should be more quick and prompt to make response to buyers before become so frustrated.
I will do my best to assist you better.

And please, compare CrossOver monitor to Dell/HP/Apple is comparing like David and Goliath or maybe Samsung vs Apple? . (At my own perception.)
However, considering its price and quality, CrossOver monitors worth the value.

I know that the return, replacement process sucks.
That part, we are working on to solve but as you know, small company , perhaps small seller on ebay like AW, There's some sort of things that we could not make complete satisfaction to our customers including issues such as customs duty/tax, using various carriers for various countries, return process and so on.

For me, it's been about 8 months that I joined in AW and made whole lot of sales of CrossOver monitors, received thousands messages came from 40+ countries.
I was mad, sad, upset and some days and night, I cried because of the cruel messages that I received from buyers,stressed, surprised, happy, glad, proud and now I want to share all experiences with buyers; to be on buyer's side to solve issues. AW became well- known monitor seller from various Forums and I sincerely appreciate to all buyers who were willing to share their wonderful experiences and recommended us to close friends and families.

I become so talkative.. Haven't I?

All I wanted to say is that, Thank you it has been a great honor to have you and made us to be known for good seller.

Ciao-


----------



## Xibal

HAHAHA, reporting lightspace, don't forget to report astromobile as well then since they are one in the same.


----------



## Wrath42

I am thinking about buying one of these Korean IPS displays but have a few questions if you guys don't mind? I plan on using this display for consoles aswell, I have a surround sound system and my own Digital to Analog Converter I use for audio.

If I bought one with a scaler and hdmi ports it would play my Ps3 and Xbox 360 games at their correct resolutions with no gimmicks correct?

I have an Xbox that does not have an optical out, is there a simple way to run the HDMI cable through something that can properly split it without any issues? For example a small box that had HDMI IN on one side and an HDMI OUT (carrying only the video) aswell as a Toslink/SDIF OUT on the other side for the digital audio to then go into my DAC? would this cause any issues in performance?

Most of the cheaper priced displays overclock to 75/80 HZ correct?

I really do appreciate any help on this matter, I have been looking to burn my cash on a new display for about a month now but I am doing my best to make an informed decision to avoid any issues in the future I may have.


----------



## Descadent

yes xbox is fine and you can run hdmi and the old xbox cables side by side so you can still get optical with hdmi on old xbox. You would have to break off the plastic on the part of the cable that plugs into the xbox. simple takes 2 secs with screwdriver. 




or use this dongle


none of the crossovers or any korean overclock anymore.


----------



## Wrath42

So only the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 2B is overclockable huh?


----------



## Descadent

yeah and they don't exist. there are overlords that can be 120, but imo they ugly.


----------



## Wrath42

One last question before I start looking to purchase this bad boy, more reading has informed me that a scaler and additional inputs add more input latency, but I was doing some reading at another site that mentioned the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE (single input model no scaler) "can also use with a PS3 / Xbox 360 console at 720p and still have no lag"

Of course I prefer the crossover so, using the dongle previously mentioned to grab digital audio and then running a HDMI->DVI from the xbox to a crossover 27Q LED single input should not result in any issues? Besides of course the forced 720p which is okay because ill only be playing my xbox from 6+ feet away.

Probably the last time ill pester you before I make my purchase, looking for a list of reputable sellers right now.


----------



## Descadent

you cannot do hdmi to dvi with xbox with these monitors. just straight hdmi. scaler adds latency but it's not an issue and it's not a big deal. Still less than some tvs. Even the catleap with no multi input or scaler cannot do xbox because it requires dl-dvi which xbox cannot do.

accessorieswhole is the only one I would buy from.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you cannot do hdmi to dvi with xbox with these monitors. just straight hdmi. scaler adds latency but it's not an issue and it's not a big deal. Still less than some tvs. Even the catleap with no multi input or scaler cannot do xbox because it requires dl-dvi which xbox cannot do.
> 
> accessorieswhole is the only one I would buy from.


Any monitor with no scaler would require native res input.

Basically don't count on the xbox working unless the monitor has HDMI in.


----------



## vuman619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you cannot do hdmi to dvi with xbox with these monitors. just straight hdmi. scaler adds latency but it's not an issue and it's not a big deal. Still less than some tvs. Even the catleap with no multi input or scaler cannot do xbox because it requires dl-dvi which xbox cannot do.
> 
> accessorieswhole is the only one I would buy from.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Any monitor with no scaler would require native res input.
> 
> Basically don't count on the xbox working unless the monitor has HDMI in.


I would like to just chime in here in regards to the whole Xbox 360/PS3 console issue.

I own a Crossover 27Q Led-P Monitor with no scaler and only a DVI input; I can confirm that in fact the Xbox 360 AND PS3 work with both a DL-DVI Male->HDMI Female adapter with a HDMI cable and also a HDMI->DL-DVI cable.

Both play fine at 720p, no issues at all; remember that 720p is exactly half of 1440p, to get sound I just use the analogue cable from the Xbox and an optical cable from the PS3 attached to my amplifier.


----------



## ehpexs

Ordered a 27Q-P from dreamseller. If it's as good as I think it will be when it arrives, I'll get two more.


----------



## b0z0

Has anyone ordered the Crossover 2730MD-P Overclockable monitor? If so How easy is it to OC using AMD cards?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> Has anyone ordered the Crossover 2730MD-P Overclockable monitor? If so How easy is it to OC using AMD cards?


It can't overclock. The seller is advertising something that the monitor does not (indeed, _cannot_) do.


----------



## domino66

Received my 2720MD-P yesterday, bought from bigclothcraft on ebay for $490 USD -- got hit with $52 in Canadian import taxes, but whatever I knew that was coming.

Now comes the task of figuring out whether it can do 2560x1440, which is the whole reason I bought i. Have an Alienware M11X with NVIDIA® GeForce® GT540M graphics with 2.0GB Video Memory and Optimus, and DisplayPort and HDMI ports. I'm told that this _should_ be more than enough to drive 2560x1440.

Unfort, I don't have a DP (male to male) cable. I've tried every other manner of cable, none of which have been able to get higher than 1920x1200:

I *thought* that a high-speed HDMI (what used to be called 1.4, right?) would do it, but it won't.
I also have a DP to dual-link DVI cable...which I *thought* would work, but doesn't (DP plugged into laptop, DVI end plugged into monitor.)
I also have a little DP > DVI adapter thingy, which I plugged into my laptop to give it a DVI port, then used the dual-link DVI cable that came with the monitor to connect the two...no dice.
So now I'm waiting on the male-to-male DP cable I just ordered...hopefully it works. I connected the monitor to my friend's computer which has a dual-link DVI port, and it DID achieve 2560x1440, so I know the monitor's capable of it...I just hope that I get the same result using a DP cable, but the entire reason I purchased it was for that resolution.


----------



## domino66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domino66*
> 
> Received my 2720MD-P yesterday, bought from bigclothcraft on ebay for $490 USD -- got hit with $52 in Canadian import taxes, but whatever I knew that was coming.
> 
> Now comes the task of figuring out whether it can do 2560x1440, which is the whole reason I bought i. Have an Alienware M11X with NVIDIA® GeForce® GT540M graphics with 2.0GB Video Memory and Optimus, and DisplayPort and HDMI ports. I'm told that this _should_ be more than enough to drive 2560x1440.
> 
> Unfort, I don't have a DP (male to male) cable. I've tried every other manner of cable, none of which have been able to get higher than 1920x1200:
> 
> I *thought* that a high-speed HDMI (what used to be called 1.4, right?) would do it, but it won't.
> I also have a DP to dual-link DVI cable...which I *thought* would work, but doesn't (DP plugged into laptop, DVI end plugged into monitor.)
> I also have a little DP > DVI adapter thingy, which I plugged into my laptop to give it a DVI port, then used the dual-link DVI cable that came with the monitor to connect the two...no dice.
> So now I'm waiting on the male-to-male DP cable I just ordered...hopefully it works. I connected the monitor to my friend's computer which has a dual-link DVI port, and it DID achieve 2560x1440, so I know the monitor's capable of it...I just hope that I get the same result using a DP cable, but the entire reason I purchased it was for that resolution.


I just had a troubling thought...which ofc is silly before I even get the DP cable I ordered, but still crossed my mind. Is it possible that this monitor can ONLY do 2560x1440 via its dual-link DVI port? I purchased this model specifically because it advertised a DP port (whereas other models don't have one). And my graphics card's specs can definitely push 2560x1440 via its DP port...but is it possible that the DP port on the monitor won't be able to handle...like, an _incoming_ 2560x1440 signal via DP?
(will report back either way)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domino66*
> 
> I just had a troubling thought...which ofc is silly before I even get the DP cable I ordered, but still crossed my mind. Is it possible that this monitor can ONLY do 2560x1440 via its dual-link DVI port? I purchased this model specifically because it advertised a DP port (whereas other models don't have one). And my graphics card's specs can definitely push 2560x1440 via its DP port...but is it possible that the DP port on the monitor won't be able to handle...like, an _incoming_ 2560x1440 signal via DP?
> (will report back either way)


Highly unlikely. If it's got DisplayPort, I don't see why it wouldn't run 1440p; all revisions of DisplayPort including the first 1.0 revision have support 1440p resolutions.

Your DP -> DVI adapter wasn't up to pushing 1440p because it's a passive adapter; the same is true of your displayport -> DVI cable. Both are actually single link DVI connections, not dual link DVI. You need an active adapter to run it that way ($50+ adapter). Your HDMI port on your monitor may not support 1.4a, or it may be the HDMI port on your laptop that does not support HDMI 1.4a.


----------



## domino66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Highly unlikely. If it's got DisplayPort, I don't see why it wouldn't run 1440p; all revisions of DisplayPort including the first 1.0 revision have support 1440p resolutions.
> 
> Your DP -> DVI adapter wasn't up to pushing 1440p because it's a passive adapter; the same is true of your displayport -> DVI cable. Both are actually single link DVI connections, not dual link DVI. You need an active adapter to run it that way ($50+ adapter). *Your HDMI port on your monitor may not support 1.4a, or it may be the HDMI port on your laptop that does not support HDMI 1.4a.*


Thank you. Is there a way to test the above bolded part? This thread is 400 pages long and all discussing the same monitor (right?) so I've got to think that we know by now whether the monitor's capable of HDMI 1.4a...?

As for my graphics card, is there a diagnostic I can run that will tell me that? (it's a _NVIDIA® GeForce® GT540M graphics with 2.0GB Video Memory and Optimus_, and DisplayPort and HDMI ports)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *domino66*
> 
> Thank you. Is there a way to test the above bolded part? This thread is 400 pages long and all discussing the same monitor (right?) so I've got to think that we know by now whether the monitor's capable of HDMI 1.4a...?
> 
> As for my graphics card, is there a diagnostic I can run that will tell me that? (it's a _NVIDIA® GeForce® GT540M graphics with 2.0GB Video Memory and Optimus_, and DisplayPort and HDMI ports)


It's not a property of your graphics card incidentally; I need to know the exact model of your laptop to confirm.

From what I can tell, your HDMI _should_ be an HDMI 1.4a port. Should be. Everything I've _read_ says (when it bothers to) that the HDMI port is a 1.4 port - but I haven't seen anyone actually do it with a HDMI 1.4 monitor and HDMI 1.4 cable.


----------



## Arctic Storm

wooo just received my 27inch non pivot monitor a day early, it only took 2-3 days from Korea to Canada. It looks amazing, ill be purchasing another. No issues and no dead pixels that ive noticed, some backlight bleed but nothing crazy/


----------



## Descadent

as it's been stated. either use a dp cable. or you have to use a dp to dl-dvi *ACTIVE* adapter, but you have multi input crossover so just stick with the single dp cable and call it a day cause obviously cheaper than a dp to dl-dvi active adapter. Hdmi can work, but it might be the hdmi out on that card not letting you get that res. Display port is the best option and best choice regardless and the cables are as cheap as $6 on amazon depending on length.


----------



## DaGoat

Hi folks,,

As i'm thinking about upgrading my GPU, I'm considering for the first time an AMD card, namely a 7970. Haven't decided yet, but I thought I could give AMD a chance.
So far the only card interesting me is the MSI 7970 Lightning, but it doesn't have dual-link DVI, only single-link DVI.

It has a display port though, so, would it work (at 1440p of course







) on a crossover 27Q using an adapter display-port > DVI dual link?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Hi folks,,
> 
> As i'm thinking about upgrading my GPU, I'm considering for the first time an AMD card, namely a 7970. Haven't decided yet, but I thought I could give AMD a chance.
> So far the only card interesting me is the MSI 7970 Lightning, but it doesn't have dual-link DVI, only single-link DVI.
> 
> It has a display port though, so, would it work (at 1440p of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) on a crossover 27Q using an adapter display-port > DVI dual link?


That's insane that, that card does not. You are already looking at more money having to buy an dp to active dl-dvi adapter.

buy a card with dl-dvi! it's 2013! all nvidia cards have dl-dvi-d and almost all have dl-dvi-i, for some reason amd or specific amd card manufacturers likes to play weird and out dated on some cards. That or amd tries to force you to use dp, but as you can see you are already over the cost of another amd card with dl-dvi or nvidia card because of additional adapter. which imo makes no sense


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Hi folks,,
> 
> As i'm thinking about upgrading my GPU, I'm considering for the first time an AMD card, namely a 7970. Haven't decided yet, but I thought I could give AMD a chance.
> So far the only card interesting me is the MSI 7970 Lightning, but it doesn't have dual-link DVI, only single-link DVI.
> 
> It has a display port though, so, would it work (at 1440p of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) on a crossover 27Q using an adapter display-port > DVI dual link?


Just don't get the MSI lighning. There is plenty of 7970s with DVI-DL.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> That's insane that, that card does not. You are already looking at more money having to buy an dp to active dl-dvi adapter.
> 
> buy a card with dl-dvi! it's 2013! all nvidia cards have dl-dvi-d and almost all have dl-dvi-i, for some reason amd or specific amd card manufacturers likes to play weird and *out dated on some cards*. That or amd tries to force you to use dp, but as you can see you are already over the cost of another amd card with dl-dvi or nvidia card because of additional adapter. which imo makes no sense


Thats why Nvidia uses Memory Interface of 256-bit and Memory Bandwidth of 192.2 GB/sec. In my opinion, this is much more *OUTDATED.*

AMD = 264GB/s memory bandwidth

If I were you, I would get the SAPPHIRE 100351SR Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card OC with Boost

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202008


----------



## KaRLiToS

Double Post sorry


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Just don't get the MSI lighning. There is plenty of 7970s with DVI-DL.
> Thats why Nvidia uses Memory Interface of 256-bit and Memory Bandwidth of 192.2 GB/sec. In my opinion, this is much more *OUTDATED.*
> 
> AMD = 264GB/s memory bandwidth
> 
> If I were you, I would get the SAPPHIRE 100351SR Radeon HD 7970 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card OC with Boost
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202008


True really doesn't matter if you don't have the horsepower on the card to begin with.. but not having dl-dvi ports. say whatttt!


----------



## b0z0

Im thinking about ordering the Crossover 27Q from kwave on amazon. I messaged them and they stated they cover shipping under the year warranty if somethings wrong with the monitor. Anyone order from amazon from kwave?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> True really doesn't matter if you don't have the horsepower on the card to begin with.. but not having dl-dvi ports. say whatttt!


One card out of the 7970 lot without DVI-DL. Just pick another 7970. Anyway, the R7970 Lightning is one of the most expensive 7970 (not worth it especially if you are looking for DVI-DL), cheaper than average GTX 680 though


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Hi folks,,
> 
> As i'm thinking about upgrading my GPU, I'm considering for the first time an AMD card, namely a 7970. Haven't decided yet, but I thought I could give AMD a chance.
> So far the only card interesting me is the MSI 7970 Lightning, but it doesn't have dual-link DVI, only single-link DVI.
> 
> It has a display port though, so, would it work (at 1440p of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) on a crossover 27Q using an adapter display-port > DVI dual link?


Don't go with the dual link adapter route. Those adapters don't work altogether that great. There are a lot of other HD 7970 with one dual link dvi port though.


----------



## sinsang

Just received my 27Q from dream-seller. Things seem okay so far, one stuck green pixel that I can't seem to massage away. I tried the pixel flicker utility as well to no success. I am, however, experiencing a very quick and faint clicking noise from the power brick at times. Does anybody know what is the cause? and is it cause for worry?

Thanks


----------



## Descadent

I've never heard my 3 power bricks make noise. Far as I know they shouldn't be making noise.


----------



## jcamp6336

any difference between the 27Q and the 27QD besides the stand? Is it just a newer model?


----------



## sinsang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> I've never heard my 3 power bricks make noise. Far as I know they shouldn't be making noise.


Alright, I'll keep a lookout on the power brick. It seems to only make the noise once in a while. Still not sure what's going on. I contacted the seller to see what he says about it.

Thanks


----------



## Kyyul

Long time lurker here, I'm going to pull the trigger this afternoon on this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-27-Monitor-2560X1440-High-resolution-Monitor-QHD-DVI-/321031610138?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abef99f1a I'm excited and as soon as it gets here i'll post some pictures, maybe do a video. I'll answer any questions i can about it and my experience ordering one. Awesome thread by the way. Anyway... until then. Bye Internet.


----------



## smedia

.


----------



## smedia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs*
> 
> Ordered a 27Q-P from dreamseller. If it's as good as I think it will be when it arrives, I'll get two more.


ordered same day as you from dream-seller also. hoping and praying everything is in working order when it gets here, good luck!


----------



## F0zzie

In case you missed it, up to 9% off for Crossover displays from AW.

http://stores.ebay.com/AccessoriesWhole/CROSSOVER-/_i.html?rt=nc&_fcid=100&_fsub=5015903015&_localstpos=&_sid=1033343855&_sticky=1&_stpos=&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&gbr=1&_sop=1&_sc=1


----------



## Descadent

AW got the better deal as the better seller!







as cheap as $319 for led-p. That's $11 cheaper than when I got mine at 330 for 2, 350 for my 1st.


----------



## chill1217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F0zzie*
> 
> In case you missed it, up to 9% off for Crossover displays from AW.
> 
> http://stores.ebay.com/AccessoriesWhole/CROSSOVER-/_i.html?rt=nc&_fcid=100&_fsub=5015903015&_localstpos=&_sid=1033343855&_sticky=1&_stpos=&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&gbr=1&_sop=1&_sc=1


aren't these the same prices as before? looks like AW raised prices then dropped them with a sale for the same price without the sale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> AW got the better deal as the better seller!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as cheap as $319 for led-p. That's $11 cheaper than when I got mine at 330 for 2, 350 for my 1st.


did you pay +$100 shipping as well?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chill1217*
> 
> aren't these the same prices as before? looks like AW raised prices then dropped them with a sale for the same price without the sale
> did you pay +$100 shipping as well?


no. shipping was included. when I bought mine. so guess mine was cheaper still. Guess they aren't including the shipping now but either way, were paying for shipping regardless when it was "free".

i still stand by regardless AW over them all. it's worth it for the warranty and their policy alone and amazing getting out of the door and getting them shipped. Can't beat a day and half shipping/processing from korea to u.s.


----------



## amazing235

Testing.. never mind.


----------



## Born For TDM

Just got a nice one from BCC, flawless pixels, a little light bleed. Not to worried about that though.


----------



## MorroWest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Born For TDM*
> 
> Just got a nice one from *BCC*, flawless pixels, a little light bleed. Not to worried about that though.


What's BCC?








Just started looking into 27" market, so have not managed to read all posts.

Edit: Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chill1217*
> 
> BCC is short for bigclothcraft, one of the more reputable sellers on ebay


----------



## chill1217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Born For TDM*
> 
> Just got a nice one from BCC, flawless pixels, a little light bleed. Not to worried about that though.


i ordered an LED-P from BCC that just came in today. i ordered an LED BLADE on Jan. 1 first, then changed my mind to an LED-P. took a week and a half to ship. BCC was very responsive to my many messages.

monitor is working great so far. haven't noticed any dead pixels yet, but i just did a quick scan on a white background. picture looks great, but i think the monitor might be hurting my eyes. they feel a little strained looking at it. i'm experimenting with different color profiles and brightness right now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorroWest*
> 
> What's BCC?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just started looking into 27" market, so have not managed to read all posts.


BCC is short for bigclothcraft, one of the more reputable sellers on ebay


----------



## Agoriaz

I'm in the same boat as you, MorroWest. Recently got my hands on some extra money and this seems like the right thing to spend it on. Found a few on ebay - AccessoriesWhole and Dreamseller. I read somewhere that you should avoid AstroBile and LightnSpace due to an increase in dead / defective pixels. I was wondering whether this is the usual price or if the price has recently gone up.


----------



## Descadent

dropping teasers!

Bf3 Aftermath: 7680x1440


----------



## cocksebastian

I just ordered mine from AW on Friday and received it.
Rocket fast shipping, I would say









I ordered 27Q LED monitor and so far not found any dead pixels.
No backlight bleed.

I like the way they communicate and it was very worthy to read 30+ pages here to decided which seller to choose.
Hope their price could go down or at least get similar to other seller's price but I trust their service and product quality.


----------



## tr1xst3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> dropping teasers!
> 
> Bf3 Aftermath: 7680x1440


Jesus...

what kind of frames are you getting?


----------



## amazing235

Price was raised last 4/4 in 2012 due to shortage of LG IPS panels in Korea.
Most of 27inch monitors which was manufactured in Korea had price gone up according to demands & supplys.
Because of the shortage of IPS panel, Yamakasi and Achieva had discontinued/ decreased most of their productions.

As on the earlier post, I've done some research about sellers on Ebay since we are an official,authorized CrossOver dealer to maximize CrossOver product reputation.
It was hard decision for us to put promotion on Ebay since the Korea(KRW)-USA(USD) currency had dropped sharply.
But, it was also inevitable for us to do promotion at this time to minimize CrossOver product claims and poor quality services provided from unkown, unauthorized sellers.

Please select/choose right seller before you make final decision to purchase monitor.
It is not a cheap product that you purchase and say "Oh, well, I was unlucky to buy this product.".
It is expensive electronic goods that you will use over 3 years and I completely understand buyer's concerns about product warranty rather than product price.

Since I joined AW, I frequently receive messages from buyers' who purchased their monitors from other sellers requesting help/assistance for replacement.
I've been kindly correspond with those buyers but it was also heart broken to refuse their request.

Please check Seller's performance, feedback received thoroughly.
Do not get confused on their performance rate because the rate is not made 100% up by selling monitors only.
So, check the feedback accordingly, contact seller and request much informations as possible, compare their product quality, service, policy, guarantee and so on.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cocksebastian*
> 
> I just ordered mine from AW on Friday and received it.
> Rocket fast shipping, I would say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered 27Q LED monitor and so far not found any dead pixels.
> No backlight bleed.
> 
> I like the way they communicate and it was very worthy to read 30+ pages here to decided which seller to choose.
> Hope their price could go down or at least get similar to other seller's price but I trust their service and product quality.


AW has always been more in general, mostly because of their less than 3 dead pixel policy, sell A panels not A-, and 1 year warranty.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr1xst3r*
> 
> Jesus...
> 
> what kind of frames are you getting?


That map anywhere from 47-63 depending on what was going on.


----------



## b0z0

Has anyone noticed any screen tear while gaming? I'm stuck between the Crossover 27Q and the Asus VG278HE 144hz.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> Has anyone noticed any screen tear while gaming? I'm stuck between the Crossover 27Q and the Asus VG278HE 144hz.


nope. 1440p > that 1080p 27 incher that you would need to run at 144fps in games to get the use out of it.

my opinion of course on the asus unless you really really want 3d ( i came from 120hz 3d monitor to 1440p don't miss it), but ANY game can get screen tear on 60hz monitor without vsync on. I refuse to ever have it on though.


----------



## Jointe1992

Hello,

I bought a Crossover 27Q LED from BCC on a friday late november 2012 (actually I bought a Yamakasi Catleap but it was out of stock so I could choose any 27" monitor in their store, so i went with the Crossover 27Q LED instead. It didn't have free shipping like the Yamakasi one, but they would send it anyway).

It took 2 days for the monitor to get from their warehouse to the Korean airport, i guess they did some testing on it so I wasn't going to get it until the next week.

On monday the 10th of December I got a call from Mr. UPS-man and they said that my package had arrived in Sweden and that they wanted ~650 (about 100$) SEK before they could deliver the monitor. Before BCC asked me what i would like to value the invoice at so i told them to put it at 200$, guess I could have gotten away with less. But I ended up with a nice monitor for about 2900 SEK which is a catch.

The monitor came in a thick box with some foam around it, once opened the monitor was there well packed. I was worried that this monitor wouldn't fit in my desk but it did, it is a very low monitor for it's size. I also bought a separate DVI-D cable because I didn't want to get any issues with the one included.

The only annoying thing about this monitor is that the ouput for DVI and power is between the monitor and the stand, a very awkward position and I had some trouble getting the cables in. The powercable was tricky because one side is flat and you get no feedback to which way the flat side goes, turns out it's flat side against monitor.

Once everything was set up and I was ready to start my PC, something happened...
It was the brightest light i've ever seen and the monitor went on just fine displaying the bios screen and everything. Colours are great out of box so no need to adjust. No dead pixels, atleast I haven't noticed any ,I haven't been looking very much for them anyway. There is also zero backlight bleed. And the adapter does not get that warm, in sweden we are using 220-230V power outlets

Now I have had my Crossover little over a month and it's still working great. Can't say I'm dissapointed. This is a huge step up from 1680x1050 TN, i've had to lower graphics in some games running a 560 ti with 1GB of VRAM.

There is one thing that i've noticed, in Arma 2. When I now zoom in, objects such as buildings and trees is flickering. This got better when nvidia released new drivers so now it is very little flickering, maybe a window in a building. I don't think this is a issue with the monitor.

I've heard people mention that there is a ticking noise from the power adapter. I've started to hear a very low ticking noise after I've turned everything off. I haven't located the sound yet but if it is the adapter my guess is that it's the sound of cheap plastic expanding because of the heat. I'm not sure about this but I would like to know what it could be.

And for my question: How do you know if your panel is A- or A?


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> nope. 1440p > that 1080p 27 incher that you would need to run at 144fps in games to get the use out of it.
> 
> my opinion of course on the asus unless you really really want 3d ( i came from 120hz 3d monitor to 1440p don't miss it), but ANY game can get screen tear on 60hz monitor without vsync on. I refuse to ever have it on though.


Only reason I was asking. I went from a BenQ XL2420T(Colors were washed out) to triple 27" ASUS VE278Q's and it had horrible screen tear. So I sold them all, now I'm trying to figure out what I want. I'm curious how CS Go will look at 1440 playing competitive.


----------



## alabrand

Which seller is it recommended to buy from?


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alabrand*
> 
> Which seller is it recommended to buy from?


The 2 sellers that stand out the most is Accessories whole, and BCC.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> Only reason I was asking. I went from a BenQ XL2420T(Colors were washed out) to triple 27" ASUS VE278Q's and it had horrible screen tear. So I sold them all, now I'm trying to figure out what I want. I'm curious how CS Go will look at 1440 playing competitive.


I took some screenshots for you although it's surround.


----------



## DaGoat

Another question about this dual-link connector thing.

Most of the card manufacturers propose one DVI-I and one DVI-D, one single link and one dual link. Very often, for nvidia and for Radeon, the Dual-Link port is the DVI-I port. That is to say, the analog port.
But manufacturer specifications give a max. resoluton of 2048x1536 for analog. So how is it possible?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Another question about this dual-link connector thing.
> 
> Most of the card manufacturers propose one DVI-I and one DVI-D, one single link and one dual link. Very often, for nvidia and for Radeon, the Dual-Link port is the DVI-I port. That is to say, the analog port.
> But manufacturer specifications give a max. resoluton of 2048x1536 for analog. So how is it possible?


because analog can do that res. old crts can.

mostly all over nvidia's current cards have dl-dvi-d and dl-dvi-i on the same card. we talked about this 1-3 pages back.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> Another question about this dual-link connector thing.
> 
> Most of the card manufacturers propose one DVI-I and one DVI-D, one single link and one dual link. Very often, for nvidia and for Radeon, the Dual-Link port is the DVI-I port. That is to say, the analog port.
> But manufacturer specifications give a max. resoluton of 2048x1536 for analog. So how is it possible?


The analogue portion of DVI-I is actually independent of the number of DVI links. The single versus dual link nature of DVI is in the digital side of things. Analogue video signals, whether in a dual link or single link DVI situation, still use the same number of pins in either case.


----------



## DaGoat

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> because analog can do that res. old crts can.
> 
> mostly all over nvidia's current cards have dl-dvi-d and dl-dvi-i on the same card. we talked about this 1-3 pages back.






Yeah hopefully I still remember what I talked about 2-3 days ago, I'd be worried otherwise, this is not the same point.

Just checked for nvidia, this is true,but almost all 7970 cards have Single-link on DVI-D and Dual-link on DVI-I.
This gets even more confusing when you consder that it is said that Radeon cards perfrorm better at higher resolutions (it's all over the thread).

So I wonder how is it for Radeon cards owners ?


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The analogue portion of DVI-I is actually independent of the number of DVI links. The single versus dual link nature of DVI is in the digital side of things. Analogue video signals, whether in a dual link or single link DVI situation, still use the same number of pins in either case.


That still doesn't explain how come one can display 1440p with an analogue DVI-I port, as analogue is limited to 2048x1536.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> That still doesn't explain how come one can display 1440p with an analogue DVI-I port, as analogue is limited to 2048x1536.


what don't you get? dl-dvi-i accepts dual/single link dvi-d for digital with maximum res of 2560x1600 or -a (analog) for 2048x1536. dvi-a is the analog ONLY port. dvi-i or dl-dvi-i accepts both if necessary. it's just legacy support in a sense.
Quote:


> DVI-I (integrated, combines digital and analog in the same connector; digital may be single- or dual-link)


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface

why are we even talking about analog anyways? These monitors are dl-dvi digitally connected monitors. They can be plugged into dedicated dl-dvi-d ports or dl-dvi-i ports. end of story









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> 
> Yeah hopefully I still remember what I talked about 2-3 days ago, I'd be worried otherwise, this is not the same point.
> 
> Just checked for nvidia, this is true,but almost all 7970 cards have Single-link on DVI-D and Dual-link on DVI-I.
> This gets even more confusing when you consder that it is said that Radeon cards perfrorm better at higher resolutions (it's all over the thread).
> 
> So I wonder how is it for Radeon cards owners ?


not necessary true that radeon out performs in all cases every time(with radeon drivers no thanks plus it costs more to go radeon with these monitors because you must have a dp to dl-dvi adapter for eyefinity in my case, plus the struggle of finding a card that has enough of the correct dvi connections on it), but that is just how amd does their cards or their suppliers choose to do their cards. almost ALL nvidia 6 series cards have dl-dvi-d .. dl-dvi-i, dp, hdmi all on one card. why doesn't amd do it? who knows....makes no sense, but 1440p or 3d monitors are not mainstream enough for gaming (especially for 1440p eyefinity, most people use single link 1080p monitors or dp monitors) to put dl-dvi ports all over their cards I guess. vs. nvidia pushes 3d big time which requires dl-dvi.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat*
> 
> That still doesn't explain how come one can display 1440p with an analogue DVI-I port, as analogue is limited to 2048x1536.


The same way that dual link DVI can transfer [email protected]

There's no reason why it can't go higher. 2048x1536 may be all that Nvidia guarantees, but that doesn't mean it's all it can do.

Edit: Max VGA resolution is 2048×1536px (QXGA) @85 Hz - which is less bandwidth needed than [email protected] I presume it's a legacy connection documentation issue.

Double edit: Reading more carefully, I think Descendant's right - you have the wrong idea. DVI-I isn't an "analogue" port. It's a digital AND analogue port combined.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Double edit: Reading more carefully, I think Descendant's right - you have the wrong idea. DVI-I isn't an "analogue" port. It's a digital AND analogue port combined.


That's correct- the DVI-I port can transmit a digital DVI signal, or transmit an analog VGA signal. The adapter is just to put the VGA pins into the right spots, it doesn't change the signal in any way. Essentially it's a "combo" port- the card could have a DVI and a VGA port, but to save space they have the VGA signal able to go out of that DVI port. When you are using a DVI display, it acts just like a normal DVI port.


----------



## cookyjarbear

I just got my 27QD monitor from AW.
I ordered mine just after AW on promotion so I thought it was good chance for me to purchase.
Surely fast shipping, only took a day to receive monitor









astonishing screen!!!!
Perfect Perfect Perfect pixel-

I was jumping around and screaming and then checked on Ebay for contact AW about sending praise.
Found out that AW lowered 27QD monitor price even more.
in a day!

Holly molly-


----------



## ehpexs

I got my LED-P in today and I have to say I've honestly never put a part on my computer that was wowed me as much as this. You can take going from a core 2 @ 2 Ghz to a 5Ghz 2500k or the change from a laptop to a desktop. But this is by far the nicest thing I've ever gotten for my computer. In a recent Anandtech podcast they called this the product of the year for 2012, yet no one recognized it. They are right. The crossover is an amazing display, apple cinema display quality.

Now I need 2 more


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs*
> 
> Now I need 2 more


exactly what happened with me, bought 1. and week later bought 2 more and two graphics cards. it hurt blowing it, but sometimes I wonder why I did and then sometimes I am like this is really badass.


----------



## sintinian

Ordered a 27Q from AW last night as their feedback was far better than any others I researched, I'm impressed with the amount of negative feedback over the last 6 months compared to all the other sellers (in relation to their sales figures).
This morning I received my tracking number and have been informed that the cost has been marked down on the box for customs tax purposes and the screen has been tested (well they would say that) so I'm feeling good about this, hope I receive a good screen


----------



## Manticorps

I ordered a Crossover 27Q from AW on Monday and it should arrive here later today. I chose AW because of the feedback and positive experiences recounted here as well. I am impressed with the fast delivery and the prompt communication from AW so far.

Looking forward to getting the monitor and putting it through it's paces.


----------



## Manticorps

Monitor Arrived and am currently using it. AW packed it well, it arrived quickly and worked on the first try. I haven't done any adjustments other than turning down the brightness. Monitor is as described and I'm quite pleased with it so far. MSI 7950, 10 foot Monoprice DVI-D cable and Crossover 27Q monitor all working together nicely. BIOS displayed with no issues.


----------



## purecussion

I'm thinking of ordering from AW soon. The price has gone down to nice $360 on ebay.

What did you guys pay for customs fee for California? Is there one?


----------



## Manticorps

I'm in Texas, but there was no customs. Your experience should be similar in California I think. Ordered the monitor Monday night and it arrived here via Fed Ex on Wednesday a little after noon. So far so good.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Here's there a difference between the Crossover 27Q-Blade, and the Regular Crossover 27Q. I know the 27Q-Blade have built-in speakers, but is the picture quality is the same. and which one is the newer version cause i'm buying one right now.


----------



## sintinian

The screens should be identical. They label the box as a sample which negates the customs tax I believe. I'm beginning to wish I'd ordered the 30inch


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

I see that AW is selling the Crossover 27Q-Blade for $360, is on sale wonder should I get it. or get the regular Crossover 27Q


----------



## PatrickCrowely

What's the best 27" Pivot Model these days?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> What's the best 27" Pivot Model these days?


crossover 27 led-p. it's the only pivot model


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> crossover 27 led-p. it's the only pivot model


I thought they had gold & blade Pivot models also....


----------



## ModularGT

I'm thinking about purchasing one of the 27Q units. Just wondering how my system will hold up during gaming

2500K
GTX 460 1gb SLI
8GB ram
Z68-UD3

Right now at I can play any game on very high to max at 1600 x 1050 ~60fps on my LG 22". If I will not get great performance, what is the minimum graphics card I should be looking at?


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModularGT*
> 
> I'm thinking about purchasing one of the 27Q units. Just wondering how my system will hold up during gaming
> 
> 2500K
> GTX 460 1gb SLI
> 8GB ram
> Z68-UD3
> 
> Right now at I can play any game on very high to max at 1600 x 1050 ~60fps on my LG 22". If I will not get great performance, what is the minimum graphics card I should be looking at?


for Nvidia cards a 3G GTX 580 to a 4G GTX 670 would be the minimum
for ATi cards a 7950 to a 7970


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> for Nvidia cards a 3G GTX 580 to a 4G GTX 670 would be the minimum
> for ATi cards a 7950 to a 7970


Recent tests have proven the 4gb 670 makes no difference over 2gb. It might be worth it for future proofing, but from the recent reviews I've seen by the time you hit over 2gb you'd have to turn down settings and not use more anyways.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Recent tests have proven the 4gb 670 makes no difference over 2gb. It might be worth it for future proofing, but from the recent reviews I've seen by the time you hit over 2gb you'd have to turn down settings and not use more anyways.


That's not true..... Not when it comes to maxing out a game

A test I did before I sold my 2GB 670's after seeing TTL max out a 7950 with 3GB (PLS excuse quality)


----------



## Kent3888

Guys, to contribute I wanna share my experience where I just received my 2720MDP from AW within 3 days after ordering! Superb customer service, though they sent me the wrong stand =.= I ordered the Pivot 1, but got the normal stand.

Anyway my unit I test briefly seems like 0 dead pixel and backlight bleed was minimal, not sure my testing n eyes is correct or not.

However 1 surprise finding is that my very old Dell notebook r able to display full 2560X1440p thru VGA!! This was a big surpise to me, running just on some old 256mb ATI X1400. (not for gaming)

I also connect to my other HP laptop with ATI 7690M, display port, no doubt it display full 1440p gracefully, with audio transmital also.
I did try using HDMI connection with a high speed monster cable, but it only go up to 1080p.

Connected to PS3, Display 1080p at Home Page menu, but it only runs at 720p in games ( Assassin Creed Revolution - suppose to support 1080p). Am still verifying the capability of 1080p on PS3.

Hope my sharing helps those who is in doubt like me previously









1 thing I was a bit disappointed on the 2720MDP is the casing of it. Whole thing is made out of plastic(Non I can see is in metal, except scres) and not aluminium or metal casing on 27Q as users are promoting on the built quality.


----------



## ModularGT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> for Nvidia cards a 3G GTX 580 to a 4G GTX 670 would be the minimum
> for ATi cards a 7950 to a 7970


If I did buy one of these displays to use with my 2 GTX 460's, would the games at least be playable until I can upgrade to a 7970? I'd be hoping for at least 30fps on med settings with no aa turned on.


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModularGT*
> 
> If I did buy one of these displays to use with my 2 GTX 460's, would the games at least be playable until I can upgrade to a 7970? I'd be hoping for at least 30fps on med settings with no aa turned on.


yes games will be playable, you might even get 60fps on some games though. but not all







. so you good to go


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> That's not true..... Not when it comes to maxing out a game
> 
> A test I did before I sold my 2GB 670's after seeing TTL max out a 7950 with 3GB (PLS excuse quality)
> ]


it is true, very true. every benchmark site has proved it. just go look at the nvidia graphics card section in this forum. All you need is 2gb on current gen cards, unless you are running 1440p surround then you need 4. You don't even need 4 for 1080p surround unless you are using some insane texture mods in games. IN fact we have talked about this in this thread and every other korean thread. 2gb is ENOUGH, more than enough on current gen cards with a single 1440p monitor. The current gen cards DO NOT have enough raw horsepower to take advantage of bigger ram for a single monitor. At the end of the day more card power > ram.

also to set the record straight. you can play games at 1440p with less than a 7 series amd or 6 series nvidia. please don't tell people they can't. You just have to sacrifice on graphics for some games but YOU can use any card in last 2-3 generations, you're just going to have a bad time.


----------



## wp730

I can tell you modded Skyrim takes nearly 3Gb vRAM (~2.4 with ENB and no AA, ~2.8 with ENB and 4x AMSAA, ugrids @ 7) on my 7970 at 1680 x 1050. I personally purchase my video card for worse-case scenarios, and in my worst case more than 2Gb is required.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> it is true, very true. every benchmark site has proved it. just go look at the nvidia graphics card section in this forum. All you need is 2gb on current gen cards, unless you are running 1440p surround then you need 4. You don't even need 4 for 1080p surround unless you are using some insane texture mods in games. IN fact we have talked about this in this thread and every other korean thread. 2gb is ENOUGH, more than enough on current gen cards with a single 1440p monitor. The current gen cards DO NOT have enough raw horsepower to take advantage of bigger ram for a single monitor. At the end of the day more card power > ram.
> 
> also to set the record straight. you can play games at 1440p with less than a 7 series amd or 6 series nvidia. please don't tell people they can't. You just have to sacrifice on graphics for some games but YOU can use any card in last 2-3 generations, you're just going to have a bad time.


Hey bud, wanna do a 7680x1440 Heaven Bench.

I'll do the same with two 7970s.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey bud, wanna do a 7680x1440 Heaven Bench.
> 
> I'll do the same with two 7970s.


you tried to get me to do that before







. Heaven crashes while running benchmarks in win 8, runs fine as long as I don't hit benchmark button.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you tried to get me to do that before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Heaven crashes while running benchmarks in win 8, runs fine as long as I don't hit benchmark button.


Oh yeah I remember







my mistake bud.

We can run any benchmarks, pick one if you want to test this up.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> it is true, very true. every benchmark site has proved it. just go look at the nvidia graphics card section in this forum. All you need is 2gb on current gen cards, unless you are running 1440p surround then you need 4. You don't even need 4 for 1080p surround unless you are using some insane texture mods in games. IN fact we have talked about this in this thread and every other korean thread. 2gb is ENOUGH, more than enough on current gen cards with a single 1440p monitor. The current gen cards DO NOT have enough raw horsepower to take advantage of bigger ram for a single monitor. At the end of the day more card power > ram.
> 
> also to set the record straight. you can play games at 1440p with less than a 7 series amd or 6 series nvidia. please don't tell people they can't. You just have to sacrifice on graphics for some games but YOU can use any card in last 2-3 generations, you're just going to have a bad time.


Really don't care what site proved what. My 2GB cards tanked @1440P playing sleeping dogs just about every time if everything was turned up. I'm going on my own exp. Not what some reviewer says....


----------



## Descadent

i don't have anything else, other than batman and sleeping dogs in game bench.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Really don't care what site proved what. My 2GB cards tanked @1440P playing sleeping dogs just about every time if everything was turned up. I'm going on my own exp. Not what some reviewer says....


it's not "some reviewer" it's members of this forum, professional benchmarkers etc . You tanked because you need more horsepower on the actual card. This has been proven over and over and over. Bigger vram does nothing if you don't have the actual horsepower on the card through a bigger memory interface to even take advantage of more vram. It's how video cards work. You could have all the vram in the world, but if you don't have the raw power then, you're going to hit that performance limit regardless.

I run 4gb because I am running 1440p surround, that's a different story, but trust me I still more power. I have never seen a game take up more than 3gb on my setup anyways, even bf3 and bf3 eats vram because you have it for no reason. ALOT of games eat vram for no reason just because it's there. Textures mods and such ie: skyrim, yeah you need more vram for sure, but your performance will only be as good as the card can do still.


----------



## arknox

First post on overclock.net. Just here to say I've purchased 3 of the Crossover LED-P.

Have to say these monitors are unbelievable, so well worth taking the risk (so far no trouble). I was sweating a bit with fingers crossed when setting them up to check the pixels. However, there are no dead or stuck pixels, none at all. Checked them thoroughly and used a 50% grey background. Lots of things that looked like dodgy pixels were actually dust, most blew off but some needed a little screen wipe. Dust settles very quickly on these things.

I'm running these on 2x ATI 4770s just now, which I know to you guys is disgraceful, so no crossfire possible, but that's not an issue to me as these are for workflow in 3D MAX / Photoshop / After Effects / Davinci Resolve, rather than gaming. Next upgrade will be to an Nvidia but waiting on the Nvidia 700 series coming in March/April hopefully. Maybe one day I'll have this running in Nvidia Surround and then I can join the club 

The seller I bought from was AccessoriesWhole on ebay. He has the best rep as far as I can see. I did not pay the premium for "pixel perfect" monitors as it doesn't seem to make much difference, so could have easily had dead/stuck pixels (up to 3). Great service as well. They checked that the PCB was the latest green one and also got the monitor to me in 4 days (to the UK).

The panel is not super reflective as I was expecting. It does have a reflection but nowhere near as bad as a mirror like reflection.

As a side note I went round and saw a Dell 2412 a few days ago and it had awful backlight bleed, plus a ****ty anti glare coating that I really could never stand, unless you like looking at everything with a film grain effect. So if you are worrying about the QC on these, then take a look at the QC on Apple and Dell, it aint much better

If you are on the fence about these monitors definitely consider picking one or two or three up. This is near enough an Apple (no anti glare) 27inch H-IPS for £260. They are so good I almost cried. I was watching the 2560x1440 Timescapes film: http://timescapes.org/ and was just amazed.


----------



## smamo

I also wanted to contribute to this thread, as I recently made the purchase and was helped by other contributors to this thread. I purchased one Crossover 27Q-LED from BigClothCraft for $370 including shipping. Experience with them was painless - they communicated well and responded fairly quickly. I ordered it on Sunday and would have got it Friday if not for weather delay (let's not get into that...)

Monitor arrived packaged very well, no damage to the box whatsoever. It came with a dual-link DVI cable, power brick with Korean cord, and a power adapter. I ended up not using the adapter and chose to use an extra power cord I had instead.

The monitor itself is awesome! I did not purchase a perfect pixel model, but I believe I got one. I spent about 30 seconds looking for dead pixels on a solid red/green/blue/black screen. I couldn't find any, and figured there was no sense in spending more time finding one if I happened to miss it. There IS very minimal backlight bleed in the bottom right corner. By minimal I mean it is definitely noticeable, but ONLY when the screen is completely black. The only time I ever actually see this is while a program is loading, for example in a video game when it is loading the next level or something. Whenever anything is actually displayed on the screen I don't notice a thing. Do not read too much into this - I was more worried about backlight bleed than anything else, ended up receiving one that had it, and I can honestly say that I never notice it and am completely fine with it being there. I understand that this is on most monitors anyway, including those from Dell and Apple.

Overall I am very pleased with my purchase. I am glad I went with the Crossover because it has a thin, sturdy, and attractive bezel compared to the others. I originally was planning on getting a second one immediately, if the first one worked out well. However, I don't think I am going to do that now because I really don't need it. I mounted this on the wall and am now using one of my old 22" monitors this replaced in vertical orientation to the right of the Crossover. This is working surprisingly well and gives me all the screen real estate I need/want for the time being. Also, it seems like prices on these things will continue to come down over the next couple of years. We are already seeing new units hit the market in the US, putting price pressure on the likes of Dell and Apple. I have wanted a 1440p monitor for over 5 years, but could never justify the expense. For $370, it was an easy decision.

And for those wondering about whether or not their computer will be able to handle games played at 1440p, let me share my experience. Like many others, I was worried my system would not be able to handle 1440p and I would have to lower detail settings or worse, use a non-native resolution. My system is powerful by most people's standards but somewhat lame by enthusiast standards - a 768mb GTX 460 paired with an Athlon II X4 3.5GHz. The only games I play are Starcraft II and Diablo III, but I am able to play both fluidly at 1440p on the highest detail settings WITH AA and anisotropic filtering enabled. I will say that in Diablo I turned off the "smooth shadows" option. The monitor really makes them look amazing! I know this information is rather limited because I don't really game all that much, but I hope it helps someone.


----------



## ModularGT

Thanks for your help awesome_3_some. I have purchased the crossover 27q. I'll see how my 2 gtx 460's perform, then in a few months I'll either get a gtx 670 or radeon 7950. Hopefully my monitor comes in perfect condition from accessories whole!


----------



## m.oreilly

i am now getting some sort of 'flicker'...what was the initial issue with these and 'flickering'? just noticed it last night,though i'm on a new win8 install, ati card using the 12.11 beta. it is very intermittent, like a crt turning off but so fast it is like a flicker...


----------



## m.oreilly

just happened again...


----------



## wp730

Got mine today, and VERY satisfied. Colors were green-ish out-of-the box, but a little tweaking did the trick. I cannot over-emphasize how nice the stand is; it's exceptionally sturdy. Minimal backlight bleed is noticeable in the lower left and right corners, but only on a very dark background (dark charcoal- black). Color consistency is good across the panel- one thing that had me worried after Tech Report's review. No dead pixels (ordered standard from AW).

Now for what I don't like...

I'd like to be able to reduce the screen brightness a click or three lower. Don't get me wrong, it's acceptable, but lowering the intensity of the backlight just that little bit more would make this thing perfect. The backlight is uniform, but there is a little bleed in the lower left and right edges. Right now I'm at the lowest brightness and it's still pretty bright.


----------



## ToX1cSh0ck

I recently just purchased the crossover 27q led-p from accessories whole. All i have to say is, "amazing service!" Bought it Monday of the 14th, it shipped out on the 15th and received it on the 17th. No dead or stuck pixels from what i can see.

Coming from x2 LG 22 inch screens @ 1680 x 1050. The difference is night and day.

Currently running the crossover and 1 of the 22 inchers.

Perfect Monitor!
Highly Recommend this Seller!


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModularGT*
> 
> Thanks for your help awesome_3_some. I have purchased the crossover 27q. I'll see how my 2 gtx 460's perform, then in a few months I'll either get a gtx 670 or radeon 7950. Hopefully my monitor comes in perfect condition from accessories whole!


no problem







, I just ordered a second one from Accessories Whole. I hope we both get a pixel perfect working monitor







.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I just ordered a second one from Accessories Whole. I hope we both get a pixel perfect working monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


go for the 3rd while you're at it!


----------



## theqie

I just bought this monitor and it seems to be broken. It worked fine out of the box for a couple of hours, and then it started to go into a black screen. Now every time I turn it on it's working a couple of seconds, then it turns black. Please see this youtube video I uploaded: 




I've tried to google and search here in the forum, but I'm unable to find any other with this problems. Some had some problem with the monitor going into sleep mode, but then the lamp should be red and my stays blue.

I'm using the included DVI-D cable and running on a gfx460.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

best regards,
Emil


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AWESOME_3_SOME*
> 
> no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I just ordered a second one from Accessories Whole. I hope we both get a pixel perfect working monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If you don't get a 3rd, 'm coming over there and taking your 2 due to negligence!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theqie*
> 
> I just bought this monitor and it seems to be broken. It worked fine out of the box for a couple of hours, and then it started to go into a black screen. Now every time I turn it on it's working a couple of seconds, then it turns black. Please see this youtube video I uploaded:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried to google and search here in the forum, but I'm unable to find any other with this problems. Some had some problem with the monitor going into sleep mode, but then the lamp should be red and my stays blue.
> 
> I'm using the included DVI-D cable and running on a gfx460.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
> 
> best regards,
> Emil


Hmm that can either be Power brick, GPU, or panel issues.

Check all connections. If you have any Overclocks on the gpu, set everything to default.

Check the inside of the monitor and confirm you have a green led pcb. Take another DVI-D cable and plug it in to check.

Always run down this list when running into issues:

1.Check all connections

2. Replace all cables to see if it is cable oriented

3. Check Power brick, if possible replace powerbrick with another one and see.

4. Open up Monitor, check cables. Something may have gotten loose during shipment.

5. After all that, contact the seller and let him help you further. Just gave you the above cause he/she will tell you the same.


----------



## theqie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Hmm that can either be Power brick, GPU, or panel issues.
> 
> Check all connections. If you have any Overclocks on the gpu, set everything to default.
> Check the inside of the monitor and confirm you have a green led pcb. Take another DVI-D cable and plug it in to check.
> 
> Always run down this list when running into issues:
> 1.Check all connections
> 2. Replace all cables to see if it is cable oriented
> 3. Check Power brick, if possible replace powerbrick with another one and see.
> 4. Open up Monitor, check cables. Something may have gotten loose during shipment.
> 5. After all that, contact the seller and let him help you further. Just gave you the above cause he/she will tell you the same.


Hi, and thanks for the help!
I'll buy a new DVI-D today, and check all the internal cables. But where can I buy a new power brick?
I've already contacted the seller to see if they knew anything about this problem. Unfortunately, the seller is lightnspace (read some comments here that they might not respond to customers with problems) so we'll see what happends.

Thanks!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theqie*
> 
> Hi, and thanks for the help!
> I'll buy a new DVI-D today, and check all the internal cables. But where can I buy a new power brick?
> I've already contacted the seller to see if they knew anything about this problem. Unfortunately, the seller is lightnspace (read some comments here that they might not respond to customers with problems) so we'll see what happends.
> 
> Thanks!


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=EFL-2202W&_sacat=0&_from=R40

that's the backup I bought, works fine.


----------



## theqie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=EFL-2202W&_sacat=0&_from=R40
> 
> that's the backup I bought, works fine.


Thanks! Although, that's the US socket and I will have to find a similar adapter with EU socket (http://www.gadspot.com.tw/templates/Original/images/SocketPlug_EU.gif). But now I know what to search for.

But before I order this part and spend another $50 on this problem, how likely is the powerbrick to cause this kind of trouble? I know that's a difficult question to answer, but I would bet my money om some kind if internal hardware error inside the display.


----------



## Descadent

wait till you get that new dvi cable first imo.


----------



## smedia

Just got ahold of my 27Q led-p from dream-seller, not a bad pixel on in sight, no light bleed, no adapter hum, happy, really really happy! Beautiful picture quality at 1/3 the price. I can't say I wasn't worried until I plugged it in and it worked, but... it was a risk, and so far so good. I am using an apple dvi dual link to mini displayport adapter with firmware version 1.02 with no problems to be seen.


----------



## wp730

Figured out my backlight bleed. I noticed it was uniform and only in the lower corners, so I tried loosening the casing screws 1/8 turn. Bang. Perfect monitor, no backlight bleed. This is one killer monitor.


----------



## douglatins

Which one is the best cross as of now?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *douglatins*
> 
> Which one is the best cross as of now?


All depends on what you want and what your gonna use the monitor for.
The most popular and recommend is the CrossOver 27Q LED- P/Non P versions


----------



## davidh304

Had a few questions about the CrossOver 27Q for the people that already own one.

1) I tend to play Massive Multiplayer Online Games and sometimes shooters. Is a 6ms response time slow enough to be noticable?

2) Does the glossy feature on the Korean Monitors make the CrossOver look more like an Iphone 5 display? As a gamer do you like or dislike the glossy screen? The pictures in the first post in this thread seemed pretty reflective and I'd like to know how much that effects viewing.

3) Can I use an after market stand without extensive modification?

4) I was considering using SquareTrade for their extra warranty feauture, is this a good or a bad idea?

5) Is a dead/stuck pixel noticable on this monitor since there are SO MANY PIXELS?

I'm going to be using a Gigabyte GTX 670 (2GB), a Bloomfield Core [email protected], and a 16GB of Gskill 1600mhz RAM.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## wp730

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> Had a few questions about the CrossOver 27Q for the people that already own one.
> 
> 1) I tend to play Massive Multiplayer Online Games and sometimes shooters. Is a 6ms response time slow enough to be noticable?
> 
> 2) Does the glossy feature on the Korean Monitors make the CrossOver look more like an Iphone 5 display? As a gamer do you like or dislike the glossy screen? The pictures in the first post in this thread seemed pretty reflective and I'd like to know how much that effects viewing.
> 
> 3) Can I use an after market stand without extensive modification?
> 
> 4) I was considering using SquareTrade for their extra warranty feauture, is this a good or a bad idea?
> 
> 5) Is a dead/stuck pixel noticable on this monitor since there are SO MANY PIXELS?
> 
> I'm going to be using a Gigabyte GTX 670 (2GB), a Bloomfield Core [email protected], and a 16GB of Gskill 1600mhz RAM.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


1. Not in my case. It actually seems to give me less trouble than the "2ms" TN it replaced.
2. Much less of an issue than I anticipated. Once an image is on it, the image is predominant, and I do NOT have a controlled-light room.
3. Absolutely.
4. Up to you. For me, AccessoriesWhole's policy is good enough for me.
5. I have no idea; there are none on my non-Perfect Pixel monitor. I will say the pixels are super-super tiny, though. I'd be more concerned about getting a cluster of dead/ stuck pixels than a single pixel. A 3 dead pixel policy reduces the risk of that to near-nil.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> Had a few questions about the CrossOver 27Q for the people that already own one.
> 
> 1) I tend to play Massive Multiplayer Online Games and sometimes shooters. Is a 6ms response time slow enough to be noticable?
> 
> 2) Does the glossy feature on the Korean Monitors make the CrossOver look more like an Iphone 5 display? As a gamer do you like or dislike the glossy screen? The pictures in the first post in this thread seemed pretty reflective and I'd like to know how much that effects viewing.
> 
> 3) Can I use an after market stand without extensive modification?
> 
> 4) I was considering using SquareTrade for their extra warranty feauture, is this a good or a bad idea?
> 
> 5) Is a dead/stuck pixel noticable on this monitor since there are SO MANY PIXELS?
> 
> I'm going to be using a Gigabyte GTX 670 (2GB), a Bloomfield Core [email protected], and a 16GB of Gskill 1600mhz RAM.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


most of these answers are in the thread, you can search within the thread.

1. 6ms is one of the best if not the best in ips panels, even 2ms tn panels are not 2ms. There is no blurring. very responsive. This is the last of your worries.

2. It's just a plastic cover over the screen, some reflections yes but when it's on it's negated.

3. Yes it's vesa supported

4. It's a good idea, and it's only $50 I believe. If anything happens past 1yr given by the top sellers, you are still covered.

5. Not really you have to stare hard, most can be massaged out. Most of us don't get any dead pixels even with non pixel perfect monitors.


----------



## Manticorps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> Had a few questions about the CrossOver 27Q for the people that already own one.
> 
> 1) I tend to play Massive Multiplayer Online Games and sometimes shooters. Is a 6ms response time slow enough to be noticable?
> 
> 2) Does the glossy feature on the Korean Monitors make the CrossOver look more like an Iphone 5 display? As a gamer do you like or dislike the glossy screen? The pictures in the first post in this thread seemed pretty reflective and I'd like to know how much that effects viewing.
> 
> 3) Can I use an after market stand without extensive modification?
> 
> 4) I was considering using SquareTrade for their extra warranty feauture, is this a good or a bad idea?
> 
> 5) Is a dead/stuck pixel noticable on this monitor since there are SO MANY PIXELS?
> 
> I'm going to be using a Gigabyte GTX 670 (2GB), a Bloomfield Core [email protected], and a 16GB of Gskill 1600mhz RAM.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


1. I don't notice it at all. I doubt that I'm very sensitive to response times, so keep that in mind. I seldom play first person shooters anymore, so I'm not really qualified to comment on sensitivity to response time. I didn't notice any issues with response time in EQ2 or Vanguard. Of course this monitor is new so I'm still focused on trying to redo the UI to fit the screen a little better.

2. I like the glossy screen. I can control my light sources pretty well if need be, but I don't need to. Once there is something displayed on the monitor, I don't notice the reflections at all.

3. Aftermarket stand should be no problem at all. Mounting screws are easily accessible.

4. I have thought about it, and am still thinking about it. It does offset the "bang for the buck" somewhat, but there would be added peace of mind I may be totally wrong, but I figure that if something should happen to the monitor, I would chance being able to resurrect it cheaper than the Square Trade Warranty. Warranty is a choice you are going to have to make on based on your own priorities and risk tolerance.

5. I can't really say. The pixels are tiny, I'm not sure "I" would see one, as my eyes aren't what they used to be and I sit usually 30+ inches away from the monitor. I have not gone on a defective pixel hunt, the theory being, if I don't notice it in normal usage, it's not a problem. If I go on a dedicated pixel hunt and find a dead pixel or two, I'd know they were there and likely obsess over them. I do have a little bleed/glow from the lower left and right corners, but it is mild and only noticeable on black screens. Not an issue for me.

Admittedly, I was a bit apprehensive with the purchase at first, but I'm glad I did. I read nearly all the posts on the different variants of the "Korean 27" monitors, the good and the bad, before I jumped in with my purchase. I settled on the Crossover 27Q and Accessorieswhole. Accessorieswhole was great, and I felt confident they would take care of me should any problems arise. The Crossover 27Q has been great, no problems.

Good Luck


----------



## AWESOME_3_SOME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> If you don't get a 3rd, 'm coming over there and taking your 2 due to negligence!


lol nah, the first one I had got mess up. I bought it from dream-seller and he doesn't have a warranty on it, so I just bought another from AW cause of is 1-year warranty.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Just wanted to update you guys. I've already purchased 3 monitors from Aw prior for a PC RIG.
I was in talks with him again for another set of 3 for another PC rig being done. Just received 2 today due to shipment being made separately.
After checking the 2, I have to say the monitors are in excellent form.
No Dead Pixels what so ever and trust me I tried to find it! The back light bleed is minimal to non-existent.
The color tint between both monitors are not present so when applying color profiles it looks the same across the monitors.
Green PCB was present in each 1.

A couple things I noticed which are good.
The way the monitor is packed is different. There is more bubble wrap and cushion on the inside to protect the monitor.
The Buttons in the back for Power/Brightness are less stiff. It seems they changed it and it flows better when pressing it.

Overall, this set of restock that AW has is top notch and I urge anyone who is still up against the wall on purchasing these to bite the bullet and execute. You will not regret it.

Here is the link to what I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Just wanted to update you guys. I've already purchased 3 monitors from Aw prior for a PC RIG.
> I was in talks with him again for another set of 3 for another PC rig being done. Just received 2 today due to shipment being made separately.
> After checking the 2, I have to say the monitors are in excellent form.
> No Dead Pixels what so ever and trust me I tried to find it! The back light bleed is minimal to non-existent.
> The color tint between both monitors are not present so when applying color profiles it looks the same across the monitors.
> Green PCB was present in each 1.
> 
> A couple things I noticed which are good.
> The way the monitor is packed is different. There is more bubble wrap and cushion on the inside to protect the monitor.
> The Buttons in the back for Power/Brightness are less stiff. It seems they changed it and it flows better when pressing it.
> 
> Overall, this set of restock that AW has is top notch and I urge anyone who is still up against the wall on purchasing these to bite the bullet and execute. You will not regret it.
> 
> Here is the link to what I bought:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c


You went with the PP models? Or is that the wrong link?


----------



## wp730

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> You went with the PP models? Or is that the wrong link?


I'm not sure what Cloud went with, but I went without the PP charge because of AW's reputation, and mine is FLAWLESS. He's right about the packaging. AW obviously packs with extra care. The included adapter is nice, too.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wp730*
> 
> I'm not sure what Cloud went with, but I went without the PP charge because of AW's reputation, and mine is FLAWLESS. He's right about the packaging. AW obviously packs with extra care. The included adapter is nice, too.


pretty much all the non pixel perfect from AW are. That's what you get with an A panel only policy and less than 3 dead pixel policy! AW might cost more, but that is exactly why.


----------



## davidh304

Pulled the trigger on this:

★CROSSOVER★NEW 27QD LED BLADE 2560x1440 DVI-D Dual LG S-IPS 27" Speaker Monitor

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120972653693

I asked AccessoriesWhole for the latest green PCB and extra bubble wrapping. I paid the extra $50 for the SquareTrade 3 year warranty which was offered by ebay. Any accessories I should buy (replacement power brick, or DVI-Dual cable)?

Thanks to everyone for all the help, this thread has been awesome!


----------



## Manticorps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> Pulled the trigger on this:
> 
> ★CROSSOVER★NEW 27QD LED BLADE 2560x1440 DVI-D Dual LG S-IPS 27" Speaker Monitor
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120972653693
> 
> I asked AccessoriesWhole for the latest green PCB and extra bubble wrapping. I paid the extra $50 for the SquareTrade 3 year warranty which was offered by ebay. Any accessories I should buy (replacement power brick, or DVI-Dual cable)?
> 
> Thanks to everyone for all the help, this thread has been awesome!


My monitor sits roughly ~9 feet away from my tower, so I purchased an appropriate DVI-D cable from Monoprice. The included cable would have been too short, and I liked the idea of having a second dual link DVI cable for troubleshooting purposes, just in case.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> You went with the PP models? Or is that the wrong link?


Yea I went with PP models. I know you have a really good chance of getting a flawless monitor if you buy the non pp version. I do pay the premium just to make sure I do. Plus paying the premium does help incase of a DOA or actual dead pixels to aid back in shipping.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manticorps*
> 
> My monitor sits roughly ~9 feet away from my tower, so I purchased an appropriate DVI-D cable from Monoprice. The included cable would have been too short, and I liked the idea of having a second dual link DVI cable for troubleshooting purposes, just in case.


Yea I did the same. My middle and right monitor use a 24AWG 6ft DVi_D cable the 1 on the left I have to use a 10ft 24AWg cable to reach the Rig.


----------



## Kuad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> Had a few questions about the CrossOver 27Q for the people that already own one.
> 
> 3) Can I use an after market stand without extensive modification?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


As mentioned above:

3) Totally possible - the only concern is you want to either use the original screws from the monitor, or find short screws - normal VESA mounting screws will hit a PCB inside the monitor, possibly damaging it.


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Just wanted to update you guys. I've already purchased 3 monitors from Aw prior for a PC RIG.
> I was in talks with him again for another set of 3 for another PC rig being done. Just received 2 today due to shipment being made separately.
> After checking the 2, I have to say the monitors are in excellent form.
> No Dead Pixels what so ever and trust me I tried to find it! The back light bleed is minimal to non-existent.
> The color tint between both monitors are not present so when applying color profiles it looks the same across the monitors.
> Green PCB was present in each 1.
> 
> A couple things I noticed which are good.
> The way the monitor is packed is different. There is more bubble wrap and cushion on the inside to protect the monitor.
> The Buttons in the back for Power/Brightness are less stiff. It seems they changed it and it flows better when pressing it.
> 
> Overall, this set of restock that AW has is top notch and I urge anyone who is still up against the wall on purchasing these to bite the bullet and execute. You will not regret it.
> 
> Here is the link to what I bought:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c


They have a new batch out (new revision)? I thought they were out of panels.

I wanted to get a white one but it seems they have no more panels to make more.


----------



## Descadent

not really a revision just got stock


----------



## Cloudz00x

Yea just new stock. Just stating how the quality is on this new stock. So grab them if your interested before stock runs low again.


----------



## Jordyi

So a question that I can't see answered for the past 100 posts or so..

What's the difference between 27Q and the 27QD? Is it just the added speakers on the 27QD? If so, why is the QD model cheaper by $30?


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jordyi*
> 
> So a question that I can't see answered for the past 100 posts or so..
> 
> What's the difference between 27Q and the 27QD? Is it just the added speakers on the 27QD? If so, why is the QD model cheaper by $30?


Because the speakers are of subpar quality so no one bought them. Now they have too much stock of this model with no one buying them so they're trying to offload the excess stock.


----------



## Jordyi

So I'm guessing there's no real difference in the quality of the screens? It seems it can't pivot though.. but I don't know if that's worth an extra $60 dollars from the QD model to the Q-P model to have that function. ._.


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jordyi*
> 
> So a question that I can't see answered for the past 100 posts or so..
> 
> What's the difference between 27Q and the 27QD? Is it just the added speakers on the 27QD? If so, why is the QD model cheaper by $30?


Here is a general guide to the Korean monitors:
http://www.swiftworld.net/2012/04/14/budget-korean-27-ips-monitor-information-and-comparison-of-the-different-brands-and-models/

All the 27Q models use the same screen, each adding extra features so if the 27QD is cheaper go for that one, you don't have to us the speakers. I would have bought this model if I'd realised the cost difference, I went straight for the basic assuming it would naturally be the cheapest model, too hasty I guess.

Some models add a glass cover over the screen for extra gloss. Some people have reported extra glare and dust being trapped behind the glass so I'd avoid these personally


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jordyi*
> 
> So I'm guessing there's no real difference in the quality of the screens? It seems it can't pivot though.. but I don't know if that's worth an extra $60 dollars from the QD model to the Q-P model to have that function. ._.


The design of the enclosure seems to be different as well. The OSD buttons look easier to operate since they're on the bottom of the monitor instead of the back of the monitor like the 27Q.

Also, it appears to be made of plastic instead of metal like the speakerless version.


----------



## Jordyi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> The design of the enclosure seems to be different as well. The OSD buttons look easier to operate since they're on the bottom of the monitor instead of the back of the monitor like the 27Q.
> 
> Also, it appears to be made of plastic instead of metal like the speakerless version.


Thanks for the reply. The buttons on the front seem nicer I admit, not sure how good the plastic will be instead of the metal though..

Also, do you or does anybody else know how long these take to ship? I've read people getting them in 5 days in the US but I don't know about the UK. Also, how much do people have to pay for tax when they receive the item? Everybody's mentioned receiving them but not how much they had to pay, seems a bit odd.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jordyi*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. The buttons on the front seem nicer I admit, not sure how good the plastic will be instead of the metal though..
> 
> Also, do you or does anybody else know how long these take to ship? I've read people getting them in 5 days in the US but I don't know about the UK. Also, how much do people have to pay for tax when they receive the item? Everybody's mentioned receiving them but not how much they had to pay, seems a bit odd.


you can get them as quick as day and half after order in the U.S. as we have said multiple times. For other countries if you don't have a free trade agreement you can get caught up in customs, it has also been said in thread how much other's have been paying in tax to import. please search within the thread. Button is at the top.


----------



## Narnith

For those who asked for the green PCB, how did you ask the seller? Did you just send a message or leave a comment in the paypal box?


----------



## freitz

Should you ask for green pcb?

Another question right now the 27Q LED-P is 318 plus 100$ in shipping to ship to US I thought shipping was free?


----------



## Manticorps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Should you ask for green pcb?
> 
> Another question right now the 27Q LED-P is 318 plus 100$ in shipping to ship to US I thought shipping was free?


I didn't ask for a green pcb, but I have one.

Not sure which seller you are looking at, but some will have both a shipping for $100 and a "free" shipping version that is $100 more.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110971449659?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d669f13b

vs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Should you ask for green pcb?
> 
> Another question right now the 27Q LED-P is 318 plus 100$ in shipping to ship to US I thought shipping was free?


Shipping is never free.

If an eBay listing (of anything) lists shipping as free, that's because they included the price into the item.

Difference here as far as I know is this: With free shipping, the shipping cost is included into the price of the item so when you get a refund, you are refunded the full amount. On the other hand the value of the item has gone up so if your country requires import/customs fees then you have to pay more because it's usually a percentage of the value of the item (i.e. 10% of $400 instead of 10% of $300).

Luckily most of the eBay sellers will mark down the value of the item on paper for you so you can tell them to mark the value of the item to say $150 (now it's 10% of $150). But if they find out you're lying, you'll have to pay the full price of fees.


----------



## crzycuyler

I'm fairly certain my panel is defective. I've had the panel for just under two weeks and just last night experienced something odd that won't seem to go away. From the top down horizontally, there are parallel rows of pixels all the way across the display that show up dim. These lines are equidistant from each other. Simply put, I have dim horizontal stripes across my screen. The rows are about 5 pixels away from one another. I have not yet tested other cables/monitors, but my GPU has two DVI outs and both give the same result. From what I know about digital cables, this is likely my monitor. Any knowledge as to what is going on?


----------



## nova88

Edit


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> I'm fairly certain my panel is defective. I've had the panel for just under two weeks and just last night experienced something odd that won't seem to go away. From the top down horizontally, there are parallel rows of pixels all the way across the display that show up dim. These lines are equidistant from each other. Simply put, I have dim horizontal stripes across my screen. The rows are about 5 pixels away from one another. I have not yet tested other cables/monitors, but my GPU has two DVI outs and both give the same result. From what I know about digital cables, this is likely my monitor. Any knowledge as to what is going on?


99% of the time that someone sees strange lines on their Korean monitor, it is either the power brick (they're really cheap) or you got one of the old circuit boards. Just ask for a replacement from your seller.


----------



## Heidi

So, are their power bricks of any good or not, and how many of them actually blow up...and then, what is the remedy then of that situation?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> So, are their power bricks of any good or not, and how many of them actually blow up...and then, what is the remedy then of that situation?


they aren't bad. and if it goes out replace it. they are $20 on ebay. any monitors power supply can die. just like any electrical device with a power supply can die.


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> just happened again...


just needed to tighten dvi cable...


----------



## Lucidity

I purchased a Crossover 2730MD-P last week from Deam-seller. After turning on the monitor and testing it for about 20 minuets it faded to black as if it were going to sleep. To get the picture back I turned off the power, unplugged the the DVI (I'm using DL-DVI), replugged DVI. It'll work for another 30 seconds tops and goes out again.

I tested it on my personal computer with a GTX 660 Ti. I also tried it on an Xbox and PS3 with the same results. I read on this forum and others that it could be a bad power brick or an outdated PCB.

I contacted the seller and this is the response that i got:

Hello.
Thank you for your message.

First of all, we are very sorry for your inconvenience.

To isolate the problem, Could you take a video that can show us the faulty display, cable,
graphics card name (start-control panel), desktop tower body, resolution setting, power brick (220V or 110-240V)
and try a single monitor (instead of dual monitor).

You can upload the video on youtube and give me the link.

Once you send us a video or photo, I'll have our technician check it to find out what's wrong.
This video is to check all the product usage environment and find out the cause of the malfunction correctly.

If we agree that your monitor is faulty, you can send it to us. Then we check again if it is faulty.
If it is you give you exchange or full refund. Otherwise, we give you refund or send it back to you but round-trip postage is your responsibilities.
If you just want to buy PCB Board, we can't check ourselves if it is faulty or not, so we need to charge you the price for PCB board.

Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.

I am sorry again for your inconvenience and for your patient.
Thank you.

Best regards,

- dream-seller

Has anyone else run into this problem? Any advise or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## sintinian

My 27q arrived today just before setting off for work, only took 4 days to UK. So I excitedly opened it and checked the back and through the white grill I can see a large green PCB with a smaller blue PCB in the middle of the monitor rear... so guess I have the bad PCB? When turned on I noticed quite heavy light bleed at both bottom corners. Then I tried baldurs gate enhanced and the image flickered badly until exited the game. At least there aren't any dead pixels (I think). I really don't wanna send this beauty back. I've connected my own power lead to the supplied charger and I've ordered a new dvi-d to see if that helps. I'd be grateful for any advice on these issues. Can I tighten/ loosen the back screws to reduce the light bleed? Is the bleed a good enough reason to ask for a replacement. Thanks for any help folks!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> My 27q arrived today just before setting off for work, only took 4 days to UK. So I excitedly opened it and checked the back and through the white grill I can see a large green PCB with a smaller blue PCB in the middle of the monitor rear... so guess I have the bad PCB? When turned on I noticed quite heavy light bleed at both bottom corners. Then I tried baldurs gate enhanced and the image flickered badly until exited the game. At least there aren't any dead pixels (I think). I really don't wanna send this beauty back. I've connected my own power lead to the supplied charger and I've ordered a new dvi-d to see if that helps. I'd be grateful for any advice on these issues. Can I tighten/ loosen the back screws to reduce the light bleed? Is the bleed a good enough reason to ask for a replacement. Thanks for any help folks!


Who did you buy from?


----------



## sintinian

AW


----------



## Futzy

I moved from Florida to California and shipped my Crossover, which I bough from AW back in June, via UPS. When it arrived here the package was dented and when I hooked the monitor up the image faded away immediately, with the backlight remaining on.




I've tried to keep testing it and the length that the image stays is random, ranging anywhere from a couple seconds to several hours before fading away again. I'm assuming that the PCB was damaged somehow in shipping, as the monitor was working absolutely perfectly for 6 months, until I gave it to UPS and the got it back from them. I've reported it to UPS as I had insurance and declared a value of $500, asking a replacement cost of $400 (originally purchased for $390). If they fail to pay for breaking it, does anyone think I would be able to get a new PCB from AW or another supplier to fix the issue?


----------



## myrtleee34

is anyone running the 2730 or 2770 OC edition of the crossover monitor? what are your opinions on it?


----------



## myrtleee34

is it worth it to get a IC version with more colors and higher refresh rate, or just stik to the other models?


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> I moved from Florida to California and shipped my Crossover, which I bough from AW back in June, via UPS. When it arrived here the package was dented and when I hooked the monitor up the image faded away immediately, with the backlight remaining on.
> 
> I've tried to keep testing it and the length that the image stays is random, ranging anywhere from a couple seconds to several hours before fading away again. I'm assuming that the PCB was damaged somehow in shipping, as the monitor was working absolutely perfectly for 6 months, until I gave it to UPS and the got it back from them. I've reported it to UPS as I had insurance and declared a value of $500, asking a replacement cost of $400 (originally purchased for $390). If they fail to pay for breaking it, does anyone think I would be able to get a new PCB from AW or another supplier to fix the issue?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucidity*
> 
> ...Has anyone else run into this problem? Any advise or suggestions would be much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks


that's what mine did. the fix was to open it up, and press on all the connectors inside the monitor, including the one under the shield near the top. no issue since.


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> My 27q arrived today just before setting off for work, only took 4 days to UK. So I excitedly opened it and checked the back and through the white grill I can see a large green PCB with a smaller blue PCB in the middle of the monitor rear... so guess I have the bad PCB? When turned on I noticed quite heavy light bleed at both bottom corners. Then I tried baldurs gate enhanced and the image flickered badly until exited the game. At least there aren't any dead pixels (I think). I really don't wanna send this beauty back. I've connected my own power lead to the supplied charger and I've ordered a new dvi-d to see if that helps. I'd be grateful for any advice on these issues. Can I tighten/ loosen the back screws to reduce the light bleed? Is the bleed a good enough reason to ask for a replacement. Thanks for any help folks!


i've asked around, and from what i gather the blue behind the vesa area is ok, it's the (green) one that you can see to the right that is important. is your bleed evident with an image, or just with no signal/black screen? you could try loosening screws, but most ips have some bleed, and this is mentioned by the sellers. i assume you are dvi to dvi, no adapter?


----------



## sintinian

Yeah dvi to dvi. There's also a green/yellow tint to the screen which I ignored as I can always make a new colour profile, but it occurred to me this is a bad idea as all the images I make will look wrong on a different screen! Not good. guess its the luck of the draw and I got unlucky. I still need to do some testing when I'm home but AW seems reasonable


----------



## sintinian

I need to check the bleed again, it was more evident the darker the image, but I'd much rather have a bunch of dead pixels than light bleed as it ruins the atmosphere of games and films


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> My 27q arrived today just before setting off for work, only took 4 days to UK. So I excitedly opened it and checked the back and through the white grill I can see a large green PCB with a smaller blue PCB in the middle of the monitor rear... so guess I have the bad PCB? When turned on I noticed quite heavy light bleed at both bottom corners. Then I tried baldurs gate enhanced and the image flickered badly until exited the game. At least there aren't any dead pixels (I think). I really don't wanna send this beauty back. I've connected my own power lead to the supplied charger and I've ordered a new dvi-d to see if that helps. I'd be grateful for any advice on these issues. Can I tighten/ loosen the back screws to reduce the light bleed? Is the bleed a good enough reason to ask for a replacement. Thanks for any help folks!


Are you sure it's light bleed and not IPS glow? Does it fade away if you look at the monitor from a lower angle?


----------



## crzycuyler

I have sent a message to AW regarding my defect through eBay's messaging system. Does anyone know how quickly I will get a response? If they take my unit back, do you think they will price match the current price of the monitor which is $30 cheaper than I originally paid? Also, would they consider letting me go from the LED-P to the LED? I realize I may only get answers to these questions from AW directly, but I am in some way just spilling what's on my mind.


----------



## freitz

AW has a employee in these forums you could always send them a message back about 20-30 pages though to figure out their user name.


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=EFL-2202W&_sacat=0&_from=R40
> 
> that's the backup I bought, works fine.


daughters doublesight 27 took a dive, tried my crossover supply, worked a charm. ordering a few of these backup bricks. thanks for the link


----------



## ToX1cSh0ck

Hey guys, I recently got a crossover 27q led-p and an asus gtx 680 direct-cu ii 2gb.

.... I'm thinking of getting a second crossover.

Would the second screen run fine using the display-port -> dvi adapter?

Also, would you recommend returning my card and getting a 4gb 680 if i'm running 2 of these screens?

Any help would be appreciated. thx


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> there's also a green/yellow tint to the screen which I ignored as I can always make a new colour profile, but it occurred to me this is a bad idea as all the images I make will look wrong on a different screen! Not good


Actually I may be talking wet here, changing the colour profile should be fine, I just hope I can get it uniform


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Are you sure it's light bleed and not IPS glow? Does it fade away if you look at the monitor from a lower angle?


I'm still at work so will check when home, I'll make a video


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToX1cSh0ck*
> 
> Hey guys, I recently got a crossover 27q led-p and an asus gtx 680 direct-cu ii 2gb.
> 
> .... I'm thinking of getting a second crossover.
> 
> Would the second screen run fine using the display-port -> dvi adapter?
> 
> Also, would you recommend returning my card and getting a 4gb 680 if i'm running 2 of these screens?
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. thx


just use the other dvi port. 2gb is fine unless you do tons of texture mods in games.


----------



## ToX1cSh0ck

oh ok, alright cool.

...but...

i thought only one of the dvi ports on a gtx 680 is actually dual link, which is needed for the crossover and any resolution over 1080p...?


----------



## Agoriaz

What brand is your 680?


----------



## ToX1cSh0ck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoriaz*
> 
> What brand is your 680?


ASUS GTX 680 DirectCU II OC 2GB

http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/GTX680DC2O2GD5/


----------



## CaptainChaos

have you tried plugging your current monitor into the second port to see if it works?


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> I have sent a message to AW regarding my defect through eBay's messaging system. Does anyone know how quickly I will get a response? If they take my unit back, do you think they will price match the current price of the monitor which is $30 cheaper than I originally paid? Also, would they consider letting me go from the LED-P to the LED? I realize I may only get answers to these questions from AW directly, but I am in some way just spilling what's on my mind.


Usually they'll advise you on what to do to isolate the problem and/or ask you to make a vid then upload to YouTube. Then they'll get you to return it and test themselves, if they agree it is faulty they'll reimburse the return delivery costs then either send u a replacement or give you a refund. They have no obligation to price match current cost but they certainly might do if asked as compensation for the inconvenience, also I see no reason why they wouldn't let you go from led-p to led


----------



## Agoriaz

They're both Dual Link, however the top DVI-D slot is Digital only (hence the D) and the bottom is DVI-I which is both analog and digital.


----------



## ToX1cSh0ck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaptainChaos*
> 
> have you tried plugging your current monitor into the second port to see if it works?


Damn! I tried plugging the monitor into both ports when i first got it and only would be detected.

Now that i just did it again, it seems to work.









Well, i feel foolish.









Maybe it was because i didn't have a fresh install of drivers when i first tried it.


----------



## Tibag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> Actually I may be talking wet here, changing the colour profile should be fine, I just hope I can get it uniform


Hi,

I am actually about to get a Crossover from AW, as they look very serious with those great screens. I am also living in the UK.

Which one did you get from them? Do you have the link of the product you bought?

Any news from your product by the way?

Thanks


----------



## sintinian

I'm still at work so no updates. I went with AW as they have the best feedback for the amount of business they've done by far. It took just less than 4 working days to get to me, they marked the price down on the box and labelled it as a sample so if I received a customs fee it should be negligible, they did this without being asked to but I'd certainly mention it just to make sure. My monitor has the blue PCB but I didn't knw about this at time of ordering so didn't know to ask for the green. I think mine just needs some calibration, I'd definitely recommend AW, but wouldn't bother with perfect pixel version, of all the potential issues, a few dead pixels are the least of your risks. Even the standard are guaranteed to have no more than 5 dead pixels I believe but usually have none.
Here's the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033


----------



## ModularGT

I purchased my 27Q Led non pivot on Thursday night. I chose to deal with AW. I asked to ensure I had a green pcb, and hopefully no stuck or dead pixels. He emailed back saying that they were checking the monitor over now to meet my requests. I followed the tracking, S. Korea to Anchorage, to Memphis all within 24 hours. Then 12 hours later, into Mississauga Ontario. Fed ex delivered Monday afternoon. I've been buying things through ebay for many years, some retailers take 3 days just to ship. I had originally asked for the package to be marked at $100. Ted from AW emailed back to say that it may look a little suspicious to Customs, and that I may end up paying more due to false info. The package came marked at $200 and as a sample product. I only had to pay ~$36 in fees, no biggie.

So I unpacked the monitor, no damage, or scratches. Green pcb seen through the back casing. Fire it up, run colour slides of all different colours. Spent 20 minutes trying to find a dead pixel, thought I found one, but it was just a small speck of dust. I feel like I've got a perfect display! Played some Far Cry 3 on it. Looks amazing, had to lower my video quality to medium as very high was too much for my 1gb gtx 460's sli. Now onto finding a better graphics card.

I couldn't be happier with my monitor. I recommend dealing with Accessories Whole, fast shipping, excellent communication and seems like an honest seller.


----------



## Tibag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> ...
> Here's the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033


Yeh the Pixel Perfect looks a bit overpriced indeed. Why not the LED-P by the way? I found this one, a "P" one for £20 more.
Let us know how it goes for you (as for the custom aspect).









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModularGT*
> 
> ...
> I couldn't be happier with my monitor. I recommend dealing with Accessories Whole, fast shipping, excellent communication and seems like an honest seller.


Thanks for you feedback. Looks really good with AW, as everybody here. I am now just afraid of my GPU (GTX 580) if I do that screen upgrade.


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModularGT*
> 
> I couldn't be happier with my monitor. I recommend dealing with Accessories Whole, fast shipping, excellent communication and seems like an honest seller.


Looks like you got lucky with that monitor! What about back light bleed? I think pre-purchase communication goes a long way with AW, just wish I'd know what to ask for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tibag*
> 
> Why not the LED-P by the way? I found this one, a "P" one for £20 more.
> Let us know how it goes for you (as for the custom aspect).


I wanted the cheapest I could find while sticking with AW. I was originally looking for a replacement for my 22 inch budget monitor I was given a year ago, I only wanted to spend about £150 then stumbled on an article from another site about these monitors and I couldn't resist, so yeah, I was already spending £100 over my budget so couldn't justify spending an extra £20! If the monitor fails my tests tonight I might swap it for a -p model...


----------



## smedia

i have two blue boards, on the right when looking at the back, the LED DRIVER (the one that apparently seems to be overheating/burning) and the one that the power/dvi cables plug into..i contacted dream-seller about the boards and this is what he sent me..

Hello.
Thank you for your message.

If you want other PCB board, we can ship to you. But we need to charge for it.

Could you confirm that which PCB board do you want?
Is it LCD Digitalizer or LED Driver?

LCD Digitalizer is $45, LED Driver is $30 including shipping cost.

Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.

Thank you.
Best regards,

- dream-seller

do i need both of these? does this seem fair? should he have to send me the correct boards cost-free (through paypal dispute) if these are known defective?
i should note that as of right now the only issues i have are the screen fuzz that is corrected by powering off/on, and a couple screen flickers that were fixed by retightening the dvi cable


----------



## iBerggman

I finally pulled the trigger and bought a Perfect Pixel Crossover 27Q from AW after having lurked this thread for quite some time. I had originally planned to buy a normal version but I decided to go for a Perfect Pixel version because i only had to pay about a third of the price (kind of a gift).

AW handled my order very quickly, I ordered and payed for the monitor on Monday night and on Tuesday morning i received an email saying my order had been processed and is now waiting to be picked up by fedex. Then a couple hours later it was picked up by fedex and now the package is on it's way to Finland.
Now I'm just hoping that the monitor survives the shipping and gets here intact and fully working.


----------



## mullum

I bought my 27Q (with tempered glass) last July - since then I have not been able to use it. The problem seems to stem from OSX - specifically "Lion 10.7.x" and "Mountain Lion 10.8.x".
When I bought it I had an iMac running "Snow Leopard 10.6.x" - connected the Crossover using a mini displayport to dual link dvi adaptor (Apple) cable and all was good. I then sold the iMac and bought a Macbook Air which was running Lion - the image now showed garbled text (as seen in images I posted to this thread several months ago - posts #2928 and #2932). Before I sold the iMac I updated it to Lion - the image on the Crossover now showed garbled text. I hoped an update from Apple would fix it (on my Macbook Air). Several months later came Mountain Lion - same problem. Several more months later and a few more updates from Apple - the problem persists. I have two mini displayport to dual link dvi adaptors so I know its not a broken cable.

I tried to keep in touch with this thread up to about post 3000, but resigned myself to being at the mercy of Apple. Am I the only Mac user suffering here ? It's such a shame to have this monitor sitting gathering dust - unable to use it ! Worse still Im having to use an 11" Macbook Air screen 24/7 !

Should I sell it and wait for the (rumoured) imminent update to the Apple Thunderbolt Displays (£$£$£$£$) ?


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> My 27q arrived today just before setting off for work, only took 4 days to UK. So I excitedly opened it and checked the back and through the white grill I can see a large green PCB with a smaller blue PCB in the middle of the monitor rear... so guess I have the bad PCB? When turned on I noticed quite heavy light bleed at both bottom corners. Then I tried baldurs gate enhanced and the image flickered badly until exited the game. At least there aren't any dead pixels (I think). I really don't wanna send this beauty back. I've connected my own power lead to the supplied charger and I've ordered a new dvi-d to see if that helps. I'd be grateful for any advice on these issues. Can I tighten/ loosen the back screws to reduce the light bleed? Is the bleed a good enough reason to ask for a replacement. Thanks for any help folks!


Ok, update:, the bleeding doesn't seem as bad as I thought, I think some of it was the glare that comes with this type of screen and I've been using monitors with anti-glare for so long. Here are some images:

low brightness (my preferred under dim lighting):

mid brightness:

highest brightness:


Note: the bleeding looked far worse when close up with the camera, but I imagine even A+ monitors would show a similar effect, am I right about this?

the in-game flickering has gone, it was an issue with the game, not the monitor.

I have noticed a mild yellow tint along the bottom of the screen, this may be due to the back-light bleeding at the bottom corners

I won't start calibrating the colours until the new DVI cable comes.

also, I came across this trick for reducing back-light bleeding: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=d39bb728fa29664704ac0710022d4ed3&t=1032268
Anyone tried this?


----------



## araman

Going to preface this by saying that I did in fact search the thread but can't find the information I am looking for, that said:

*Can anyone recommend a proper voltage converter for LED-P?* Bought mine mid last year and the flickering problems I described a few months ago have mostly went away but I notice they return when I have certain appliances on my main setup at home, so want to try this.

Thanks!


----------



## Ataraxy

Putting together my new set up and I really want to get 2 of these korean 27" ips panels for it.

The thing is I've only got 1 7970 to drive both of them. Only one of them would be used for actual gaming, whereas the other would be used for web surfing, streaming video, coding etc.

I've been doing a lot of reading but I'm having a hard time figuring out what my best options are with the one card since there are so many variations and models. Anything to point me in the right direction would be helpful!


----------



## myrtleee34

what are the PCB you are talking about? i see the mention of blue and green PCB.


----------



## mitchww

I have an early 2011 15" Macbook Pro. It has the AMD Radeon HD 6490M 256 MB graphics card.

I want to connect two CrossOver monitors. I'm not into gaming. Just need two good large monitors. My work isnt video of photo related. And I'm confused!

I'm trying to figure out the following:

Is my graphics card up to the job? It's not one of the cards listed on the sellers websites but I've read forum posts of people who have connected early 2011 macbooks to Crossovers.

If I buy one of the models with a display port input, can I connect this directly to the Thunderbolt port on the laptop or do I still need some kind of adaptor? It seems like that should work but I feel I'm missing something because the seller's websites for the display port models still say they're not compatible with macbooks.

I read on many posts that users have been able to use a Thunderbolt to Dual LInk DVI adaptor to connect a macbook pro to a Crossover, if so, why do all the sellers say the monitors dont work with Macbooks?

Your help is appreciated.


----------



## Tibag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> Note: the bleeding looked far worse when close up with the camera, but I imagine even A+ monitors would show a similar effect, am I right about this?


Thanks for your feedback! It looks to be a high bleeding to me, as I am used to TN panel. What about you all? Do you think it's a "reasonable" bleeding?


----------



## ModularGT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> Looks like you got lucky with that monitor! What about back light bleed? I think pre-purchase communication goes a long way with AW, just wish I'd know what to ask for.
> I wanted the cheapest I could find while sticking with AW. I was originally looking for a replacement for my 22 inch budget monitor I was given a year ago, I only wanted to spend about £150 then stumbled on an article from another site about these monitors and I couldn't resist, so yeah, I was already spending £100 over my budget so couldn't justify spending an extra £20! If the monitor fails my tests tonight I might swap it for a -p model...


I thought I noticed a little backlight bleeding in the lower right had corner. It was actually just glare, that is normal with these screens. I just had to rotate my monitor 2.5 degrees to the right. Problem solved. Picture perfect while gaming.


----------



## telmedragon

I finally bought my third and final Crossover and this time I went with AW. Gotta admit it has been my best experience so far. No deads/tinting/etc and very fast delivery. The other 2 crossover's I've bought were from LightnSpace (had minimal yellow tinting in the corner) and Dream-seller (3 deads and blue blotchy spot visible when picture displayed is dark).






From L to R, LnS, AW, D-S.

Btw, does anyone know if there's a way to recalibrate the colors? The one from Dream-Seller is intensely blue as you can see in the third picture and it kinda sucks when using NVidia Surround.


----------



## smedia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smedia*
> 
> i have two blue boards, on the right when looking at the back, the LED DRIVER (the one that apparently seems to be overheating/burning) and the one that the power/dvi cables plug into..i contacted dream-seller about the boards and this is what he sent me..
> 
> Hello.
> Thank you for your message.
> 
> If you want other PCB board, we can ship to you. But we need to charge for it.
> 
> Could you confirm that which PCB board do you want?
> Is it LCD Digitalizer or LED Driver?
> 
> LCD Digitalizer is $45, LED Driver is $30 including shipping cost.
> 
> Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.
> 
> Thank you.
> Best regards,
> 
> - dream-seller
> 
> do i need both of these? does this seem fair? should he have to send me the correct boards cost-free (through paypal dispute) if these are known defective?
> i should note that as of right now the only issues i have are the screen fuzz that is corrected by powering off/on, and a couple screen flickers that were fixed by retightening the dvi cable


HELP ANYONE?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telmedragon*
> 
> Btw, does anyone know if there's a way to re-calibrate the colors? The one from Dream-Seller is intensely blue as you can see in the third picture and it kinda sucks when using NVidia Surround.


Try the 27Q LED-P profile from here: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm

Scroll down to see the profile installation instructions


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tibag*
> 
> Thanks for your feedback! It looks to be a high bleeding to me, as I am used to TN panel. What about you all? Do you think it's a "reasonable" bleeding?


I'd love to hear other peoples opinion too. I'm going to contact AW to see what can be done. I know people have received far better monitors, but then again far worse and I really don't want to send this back; £100 is the cheapest I can find and I may end up having to pay 2 ways if AW isn't satisfied with the defects,

My main concern is the back-light bleeding and the yellowing that is mainly along the bottom and the entire bottom right corner. Has any one found a way to correct this? I have the blue pcb if that helps.

I'll contact AW tonight after work, their ebay page states 100% guarantee, but I'm not sure what they are guaranteeing, they might be unconcerned with my complaints as I have no dead pixels...


----------



## myrtleee34

what are the PCB you are talking about? i see the mention of blue and green PCB.


----------



## mullum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchww*
> 
> I read on many posts that users have been able to use a Thunderbolt to Dual LInk DVI adaptor to connect a macbook pro to a Crossover, if so, why do all the sellers say the monitors dont work with Macbooks?


What posts ? please post links where they specifically mention using the Thunderbolt (mini displayport, there isnt an actual thunderbolt version yet) to Dual Link DVI adaptor.
I have posted about this set up NOT working with recent versions of osx - but my posts get buried beneath all the non mac user posts (relatively few mac users on this thread).
Since snow leopard I have *not been able to use my Crossover with any Mac with a thunderbolt/mini display port. I think the problem lies with that adapter and *lion/mountain lion*.

*the text is garbled - see my posts with images #2928 and #2932

Ive been considering selling my 27Q and getting the other crossover which has the display port input, as this is known to be without issues.


----------



## rjames1295

So, where do I start...

I ordered my monitor on Jan 14th, but due to paypal/ebay problems the payment reached the seller (AW) on the 17th. Monitor was shipped on the next day. Received the monitor on mid-day of Jan 23rd. The shipping took a while because I live in the Middle East.









After an hour of using the monitor and checking for dead/stuck/whatever pixels (for about 5 mins on white and black backgrounds) I found out there where none!















I am EXTREMELY happy with this purchase. I'm glad I went with AW. They responded to my messages and helped my clear the paypal/ebay problem I had! Person also said he would be sure to give me a good monitor









I really am grateful I found this thread. Found lots of useful info.









I'm sorry I don't have a nice camera. So you'll have to deal with the iPhone 4 pics.


----------



## mitchww

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mullum*
> 
> What posts ? please post links where they specifically mention using the Thunderbolt (mini displayport, there isnt an actual thunderbolt version yet) to Dual Link DVI adaptor.
> *the text is garbled - see my posts with images #2928 and #2932
> 
> Ive been considering selling my 27Q and getting the other crossover which has the display port input, as this is known to be without issues.


Thanks for responding. It's difficult to get Mac related info on these monitors. I checked out so many resources and forums that I've lost track of where I've learned stuff. Here's a couple of the posts I I've found:

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3972729?start=0&tstart=0
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4418154?start=0&tstart=0

There were a couple more posts on various sites that I havent relocated yet.

As I understand things, to connect one of these Korean monitors to a Macbook, you need an MiniDisplay port to DUAL LINK DVI adaptor like this one: http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter?fnode=53 . In addition, "Automatic Graphics Switching" must be turned off (System Preferences -> Energy Saver).

Are you using the that type of adaptor with the Auto Graphics Switched off?

SO Mullum, you've read that the Crossover Monitors with the display port input DO work with Macbooks? The seller websites for the display port versions state they dont work with Macbooks (or apple products) which strikes me as weird. IS that just boilerplate language left over from their non-DP models that they havent changed for the display port model ebay pages?

Why would a Crossover monitor with displayport input NOT work with a MacBook Pro minidisplay port?

So confused...


----------



## tlbig10

I messaged AW and they confirmed both the 27Q and 27QD's use the new updated green PCB, so I placed my order for a 27QD since it was $30 cheaper than the 27Q. The Q and QD are the same panels but the QD has a set of speakers in it (which I won't use).


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjames1295*
> 
> So, where do I start...
> 
> I ordered my monitor on Jan 14th, but due to paypal/ebay problems the payment reached the seller (AW) on the 17th. Monitor was shipped on the next day. Received the monitor on mid-day of Jan 23rd. The shipping took a while because I live in the Middle East.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After an hour of using the monitor and checking for dead/stuck/whatever pixels (for about 5 mins on white and black backgrounds) I found out there where none!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am EXTREMELY happy with this purchase. I'm glade I went with AW. They responded to my messages and helped my clear the paypal/ebay problem I had! Person also said he would be sure to give me a good monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really am grateful I found this thread. Found lots of useful info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry I don't have a nice camera. So you'll have to deal with the iPhone 4 pics.


Horrible black light bleeding. I cannot stand that...


----------



## PR-Imagery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlbig10*
> 
> I messaged AW and they confirmed both the 27Q and 27QD's use the new updated green PCB


What's the difference btween pcbs?


----------



## rjames1295

That's actually not backlight bleed. Just a really ****ty cam and/or something called "ips glow".

EDIT: i'm not actually sure about what I said. Please don't quote me on it.

But I think it might be back light bleed, but not as bad as the camera makes it out to be.


----------



## telmedragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Try the 27Q LED-P profile from here: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm
> 
> Scroll down to see the profile installation instructions


Thanks for the link. I am using a color profile that was uploaded by another member, however the problem it seems is that when I use Nvidia surround it overrides the color profiles since it "sees" all three monitors as one and unfortunately that particular one is a lot bluer than the rest. Is it a hardware default that I an unfortunately stuck with?


----------



## mitchww

regarding using these monitors with Macbook Pros I found this recently created page:

http://wesbos.com/korean-27-monitor-macbook-pro/#comment-1269


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> What's the difference btween pcbs?


plenty of posts regarding this in the thread. the blue pcb has one mosfet while the green has 3. the single mosfet has been known to burn out.

mine came with a blue pcb, but I didn't ask for a green one as I didn't know about the difference at the time. pre-purchase communication goes a long way. ask some questions first and let them know you want something decent and they'll usual sort you out.

incidentally, does anyone know if the blue PCB contributes to the yellow tinting on parts of the screen?


----------



## mullum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchww*
> 
> Thanks for responding. It's difficult to get Mac related info on these monitors. I checked out so many resources and forums that I've lost track of where I've learned stuff. Here's a couple of the posts I I've found:
> 
> https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3972729?start=0&tstart=0
> https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4418154?start=0&tstart=0
> 
> There were a couple more posts on various sites that I havent relocated yet.


thanks for those links - unfortunately none of them mention which version of OSX they are running. I doubt they are all on snow leopard, however, so I suppose there is either hope - or that my monitor must have developed a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchww*
> 
> As I understand things, to connect one of these Korean monitors to a Macbook, you need an MiniDisplay port to DUAL LINK DVI adaptor like this one: http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter?fnode=53 . In addition, "Automatic Graphics Switching" must be turned off (System Preferences -> Energy Saver).
> Are you using the that type of adaptor with the Auto Graphics Switched off?


Indeed, I have two of those adaptors - both exhibit the garbled text. My Macbook Air does not have "Automatic Graphics Switching" - neither did my iMac.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchww*
> 
> SO Mullum, you've read that the Crossover Monitors with the display port input DO work with Macbooks? The seller websites for the display port versions state they dont work with Macbooks (or apple products) which strikes me as weird. IS that just boilerplate language left over from their non-DP models that they havent changed for the display port model ebay pages?
> 
> Why would a Crossover monitor with displayport input NOT work with a MacBook Pro minidisplay port?
> 
> So confused...


The mini displayport to displayport method is the best way to connect - theres no conversion and no need for a £70 adaptor/cable. A mini displayport to displayport cable is cheap as chips on ebay (or wherever). There is, however, the extra cost of that model of Crossover (which doesnt have a tempered glass version). I wish I had gone this route.

As for the ebay sellers stating that the monitors arent compatible with Macs - I think that is just easier for them to say that than it is to try to explain what will be required.
I havent found anyone else that has reported online the same problem I have - Im beginning to wonder if the problem could be from a broken pin on the dvi cable itself (rather than the adapter). The cable HAD worked fine in the past (it was a brand new cable) - but those pins are prone to damage.


----------



## myrtleee34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjames1295*
> 
> So, where do I start...
> 
> I ordered my monitor on Jan 14th, but due to paypal/ebay problems the payment reached the seller (AW) on the 17th. Monitor was shipped on the next day. Received the monitor on mid-day of Jan 23rd. The shipping took a while because I live in the Middle East.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After an hour of using the monitor and checking for dead/stuck/whatever pixels (for about 5 mins on white and black backgrounds) I found out there where none!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am EXTREMELY happy with this purchase. I'm glade I went with AW. They responded to my messages and helped my clear the paypal/ebay problem I had! Person also said he would be sure to give me a good monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really am grateful I found this thread. Found lots of useful info.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry I don't have a nice camera. So you'll have to deal with the iPhone 4 pics.


Which version did you order up?


----------



## vuman619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrtleee34*
> 
> Which version did you order up?


looks like the 27-Q


----------



## m.oreilly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> ...mine came with a blue pcb...


are you referring to the pcb behind the rear center stand/vesa area, or the one to the right of center


----------



## rjames1295

Yeah. Like vuman619 said, I ordered the 27Q. This one specifically.


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> are you referring to the pcb behind the rear center stand/vesa area, or the one to the right of center


I'm referring to the one at the centre, its quite small and very blue :-/ Also there is a large green one to the left of it, not to the right

I checked the yellow tint on a completely white background and it is worse than I thought, it starts about half way down the screen and is very noticeable at the sides, top and bottom of the display. I'm so disappointed in AW as I asked if they check the screens first. Has anyone received a refund for this particular problem?


----------



## m.oreilly

in the descriptions i see, sellers state that the yellow is 'acceptable'. wouldn't hurt to inquire...
this is why i asked, re position of the blue pcb:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/3640#post_18685021


----------



## PR-Imagery

If its not a perfect pixel model or stated heavy "tinting" deems the panel defective, you get what you paid for. "Yellowing" is rather common in panels.

Wouldn't hurt to try tho.


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> in the descriptions i see, sellers state that the yellow is 'acceptable'. wouldn't hurt to inquire...
> this is why i asked, re position of the blue pcb:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/3640#post_18685021


There's no mention of yellow on the monitor I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110867210291?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I checked the back of the monitor with a torch and I now see the blue PCB in the dead centre is the largest of the 2 and the green PCB to the left of this is smaller, but I thought it was the centre board that overheats. Anyway as far as I know the overheating only affects the general brightness which I'm not really worried about right now, i'm not even that bothered about the back-light bleed; it's the yellowing that seems to be getting worse, maybe it's just in my head as I'm more away of it now, it really does ruin the whole image... I message AW yesterday and today, I'll wait to see what they say


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sintinian*
> 
> I'm referring to the one at the centre, its quite small and very blue :-/ Also there is a large green one to the left of it, not to the right
> 
> I checked the yellow tint on a completely white background and it is worse than I thought, it starts about half way down the screen and is very noticeable at the sides, top and bottom of the display. I'm so disappointed in AW as I asked if they check the screens first. Has anyone received a refund for this particular problem?


Nothing to be disappointed about. Regardless if you bought Korean monitors or monitors from sasmung,dell or others. Your going to run into either back-light bleed, minimal bleed or tinting. Not all panels are made equal. This can be be fought by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.
Nothing is wrong with the monitor that would need a seller to interact unless the pixels meet or exceed the count allowed by the seller dependning if it is a PP model or NON-pp model.
Since I'm assuming this isn't a PP model, your monitor has a higher chance for defects which is acceptable to the manufacturer under a certain extent. If you bought a PP model the tint is still acceptable just dead/stuck pixels aren't.

Not to worry though, individuals either have a Blue/Yellow or no tint. Again as I said this is fixed by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.

Other options are checking the cables inside the monitor to make sure nothing is loose.
Use another DVI-D cable.
In a few instances it can be the Graphics card. I've had a monitor plugged into a ATI 6950 and then a GTX680. No tint on the 6950 then I got slight tint on the 680.

Enjoy the monitor as it seems you have no other issues with it.


----------



## Spartan F8

I don't know how much people here like monoprice (i am sure it is discussed somewhere else) but i did see this up

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=9579&seq=1&format=1#largeimage

It is exactly the same as the Crossover Blade model i bought from AW just re-branded to "Monoprice".

To give an update on my monitor: The only issue i had left was minor light bleed and come to find out i was running at full brightness. I turned it down to 70 percent which helped my eyes a bit and more importantly the light bleed is virtually gone even on a black screen.

Other than than that it has been a few months now and i have had no problems.


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Nothing to be disappointed about. Regardless if you bought Korean monitors or monitors from sasmung,dell or others. Your going to run into either back-light bleed, minimal bleed or tinting. Not all panels are made equal. This can be be fought by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.
> Nothing is wrong with the monitor that would need a seller to interact unless the pixels meet or exceed the count allowed by the seller dependning if it is a PP model or NON-pp model.
> Since I'm assuming this isn't a PP model, your monitor has a higher chance for defects which is acceptable to the manufacturer under a certain extent. If you bought a PP model the tint is still acceptable just dead/stuck pixels aren't.
> 
> Not to worry though, individuals either have a Blue/Yellow or no tint. Again as I said this is fixed by using color profiles or calibrating the monitor yourself.
> 
> Other options are checking the cables inside the monitor to make sure nothing is loose.
> Use another DVI-D cable.
> In a few instances it can be the Graphics card. I've had a monitor plugged into a ATI 6950 and then a GTX680. No tint on the 6950 then I got slight tint on the 680.
> 
> Enjoy the monitor as it seems you have no other issues with it.


Ironically, there isn't a single dead/stuck pixel pixel on my screen, but having used it I now realise that non-uniform colour is far more distracting. I knew the risk I was taking, but it is always frustrating to fall into the minority. The monitor is, for the most part, great.

Colour calibration solves a generally tinted screen, but my issue is only half the screen is tinted yellow and is worse in some parts than others, that's what's annoying me the most.

What do you think of this method for reducing back-light bleed? http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=d39bb728fa29664704ac0710022d4ed3&t=1032268


----------



## chill1217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I don't know how much people here like monoprice (i am sure it is discussed somewhere else) but i did see this up
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130703&p_id=9579&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
> 
> It is exactly the same as the Crossover Blade model i bought from AW just re-branded to "Monoprice".
> 
> To give an update on my monitor: The only issue i had left was minor light bleed and come to find out i was running at full brightness. I turned it down to 70 percent which helped my eyes a bit and more importantly the light bleed is virtually gone even on a black screen.
> 
> Other than than that it has been a few months now and i have had no problems.


those are not crossovers, those are FSM-270YG. the stand is different

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=FSM-270YG&_sacat=0&_from=R40


----------



## Spartan F8

That is good to know. I can tell you that they are virtually identical except for now that you mention it i do have a mouse pad under the stand of the Monoprice one to make it exactly level with the other. Man who would have thought.


----------



## chill1217

well if you get the pivot version of the crossover, you can adjust height/swivel/tilt and also pivot. the casing is also steel instead of plastic on the back (depends on the version). that is why most people decide to pay a bit more for crossovers versus the other monitors. it doesn't seem like you can adjust the height of the monoprice monitor. the monoprice warranty is great though


----------



## firtermish

Hi! A little disclaimer before I tell you of my grievances, I've read several posts and threads related to Achieva/Catleap/Crossover before posting this so while I'm new to the forums I've done my small share of research before reaching out to you.

Having that said, I bought my Crossover a little over 4 months ago. I got around early October and initially couldn't get it to show image, so instantly I got extremely worried. I'm from Argentina so sending it back was pretty much out of the question (customs is a pain in the back). So I tried reinstalling my OS, hoping that the monitor didn't quite like my setup and VOILA! magically somehow it started running nice with a fresh install of Windows 8. But then one day around 1 month and a half ago, all of a sudden the image went out and the power led started switching constantly from blue to red. I had gotten no image from the monitor ever since but yesterday I played again with it and it worked for like 5 minutes and started doing the same over again. I pressed a button labeled "M" to get it working for a little while (no idea what M stands for and my instructions manual is in Korean).

Here's the Crossover model I have:



Is there hope for my monitor? Ideas?

Here's my setup:

Windows 8 64 bit
Corei5 2500k
MSI P67A
8 Gig DDR3 Corsair Vengeance
AMD Radeon 5870

BTW I have a 110-240 v adapter and tried using it with both 110 and 220 v with no different results. Also tried using a different DVI to DVI connector than the one provided with the monitor but that didn't help either.

Thanks!


----------



## Concept_357

My monitor has really warm (temperature) tint to it. Can someone help me apply an ICC profile using Vista since I have no idea what to do


----------



## CaptainChaos

Download the profile and then click start and type "Color Management", select it.

Choose your monitor from the drop down menu and check the box that says "Use my settings for this device"

Now you want to click add and browse to your profiles location and select it. You should now see it in ICC profiles box. Select it and click "Set as default profile"

That should do it.


----------



## crzycuyler

Here is the link that I sent to AW regarding my panel's new defect (after two weeks of usage). 



Has anyone seen anything like this?


----------



## boroda10

Sorry if this is offtopic here. I have some video driver board to repair backlight these monitors.
Model HQ-LED28-1A. It is compatible with Digital Wave CL270_MP LED DRIVER REV. 00,
Zyglobal HQ-LED28-1A1, VLD0100-B6A SE.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111004092960?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649


----------



## tlbig10

I ordered my 27QD from AW on Wednesday at 8:30am and it arrived at my office on Friday at 11am, two day shipping! Will take it home tonight and run some tests.


----------



## sintinian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlbig10*
> 
> I ordered my 27QD from AW on Wednesday at 8:30am and it arrived at my office on Friday at 11am, two day shipping! Will take it home tonight and run some tests.


That's so fast, let us know how it is


----------



## davidh304

Deleted double post


----------



## davidh304

Got my monitor from AW (AccessoriesWhole) and have been using it for a few days.

I didn't see any dead dead pixels and the quality is great. I asked for a Green PCB, even though I have no idea what that is.

The stand is a little wobbly, I think I have the non-pivot version.

Can anyone recommend a desktop stand that doesn't wobble at all, or at least very little? Can't wall mount it at the moment.

Also is there a certain color profile people are using with this monitor? Should I be looking for a color profile for just this monitor or is one for any monitor good?

Thanks.


----------



## iBerggman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by tlbig10
> 
> I ordered my 27QD from AW on Wednesday at 8:30am and it arrived at my office on Friday at 11am, two day shipping! Will take it home tonight and run some tests.


Wow that's fast! I'm still waiting on my 27Q that i ordered on Monday but i guess the shipping to smaller countries like Finland takes a bit longer.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

If you use a dvi-d to hdmi cable could it viably work for setting up a console or some other form of entertainment on this? I have the monitor already, i'm just curios as i dont have one of those cables


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boroda10*
> 
> Sorry if this is offtopic here. I have some video driver board to repair backlight these monitors.
> Model HQ-LED28-1A. It is compatible with Digital Wave CL270_MP LED DRIVER REV. 00,
> Zyglobal HQ-LED28-1A1, VLD0100-B6A SE.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111004092960?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649


No need to buy this. Your seller sends you it for free if your still under warranty and will sell it cheaper when out of warranty.


----------



## Kiracubed

Anyone have this monitor for feedback? Crossover 2730MD-P

Says it can be overclocked to 125Hz from 60Hz. Is it very simple to overclock it, and is it stable? How thick is the bezel?


----------



## sylar666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiracubed*
> 
> Anyone have this monitor for feedback? Crossover 2730MD-P
> 
> Says it can be overclocked to 125Hz from 60Hz. Is it very simple to overclock it, and is it stable? How thick is the bezel?


Noooooooooo. http://nooooooooooooooo.com/

After research and research I had my monitor chosen, and now everything is gone....

Anyone can confirm this??? I was going to buy my crossover right now







.

First Post after lurking BTW, hello all¡¡¡


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Anyone have this monitor for feedback? Crossover 2730MD-P
> 
> Says it can be overclocked to 125Hz from 60Hz. Is it very simple to overclock it, and is it stable? How thick is the bezel?


Not true overclocking unfortunately, it will skip frames if it can overclock. It has a little bit of input lag, but overall a good monitor.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

i think my account is broken


----------



## GODMODE09

Hi ,
Which is better the Crossover 27Q LED stand with the flat stand and white back panel (Does this have speakers?? )
Or the older model Crossover 27QD LED BLADE with all black panel with inbuilt speakers ?
Both costs 360$ on ebay from red cap.
I'm about to order one from India.

And is there any other difference apart from the stand ? and exclusion of speaker in the new model?

Thanks


----------



## boroda10

2: Cloudz00x
Good to be optimistic.
But I had to buy the card for the monitor under warranty.
The seller was greensum.
Six months later, the cards can not be done. This Lego.
No one knows, the Korean vendor monitors boards " Digital Wave".
And no one knows his e-mail or web-site.


----------



## Kiracubed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> Not true overclocking unfortunately, it will skip frames if it can overclock. It has a little bit of input lag, but overall a good monitor.


Thanks for the info! I own the Auria EQ276W from MicroCenter (USA), and love it. The advertising of it being overclocked to 125 was very tempting, but if it has issues and not a true overclock, if I give into the idea of doing a surround setup, I'll look for a similar but cheaper alternative, or just 2 more of this Auria. I know the feedback is great for these monitors, but I like knowing I have a 1 year warranty within US grounds.


----------



## tcool93

Why do they only give one year warranties? It makes me wonder about how long they will last. Shipping it back to them to get fixed would cost a lot. Although I've never had any problems with any monitor I have owned that I bought in the USA. But we did recently have our 60" Sharp TV become defective a year later.

As for that 27Q model, I saw another forum where they posted pictures of the blue and green PCB.

http://120hz.net/showthread.php?756-Crossover-27Q-LED-P-Backlight-problems/page2


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcool93*
> 
> Why do they only give one year warranties? It makes me wonder about how long they will last. Shipping it back to them to get fixed would cost a lot. Although I've never had any problems with any monitor I have owned that I bought in the USA. But we did recently have our 60" Sharp TV become defective a year later.
> 
> As for that 27Q model, I saw another forum where they posted pictures of the blue and green PCB.
> 
> http://120hz.net/showthread.php?756-Crossover-27Q-LED-P-Backlight-problems/page2


Multiple people from OCN have had these monitors for over a year without having a problem.


----------



## iPodge

I have just purchased a Crossover 27Q from lightnspace which I may live to regret at this rate. I've already attempted to contact the seller a day or 2 ago regarding shipping and got zero response, so it looks like that's the last I will here of them. I pray that the screen arrives at least and just maybe it will be a good unit! People don't seem to have had the best experience with them. Incidentey who is AW seller? As they seem to get excellent reviews! Anyone had/still having an ongoing nightmare with lightnspace/astrobile?

Anyway I will keep people updated on what happens! I sincerely hope I have not lost 240GBP.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> I have just purchased a Crossover 27Q from lightnspace which I may live to regret at this rate. I've already attempted to contact the seller a day or 2 ago regarding shipping and got zero response, so it looks like that's the last I will here of them. I pray that the screen arrives at least and just maybe it will be a good unit! People don't seem to have had the best experience with them. Incidentey who is AW seller? As they seem to get excellent reviews! Anyone had/still having an ongoing nightmare with lightnspace/astrobile?
> 
> Anyway I will keep people updated on what happens! I sincerely hope I have not lost 240GBP.


Shoulda read this thread before buying, and bought from accessorieswhole. lightnspace has a reputation for screwing over customers.


----------



## firtermish

Still waiting for an answer on my blinking light problem. Anyone had any similar problem? Thanks!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firtermish*
> 
> Still waiting for an answer on my blinking light problem. Anyone had any similar problem? Thanks!


check the dl-dvi connection and maybe try new cable. You should contact your seller and should have when you originally got it. They can help you (especially if it's AW) or even send you replacement parts without needing monitor shipped back.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> that's what mine did. the fix was to open it up, and press on all the connectors inside the monitor, including the one under the shield near the top. no issue since.


I've done this with no change in results

There doesn't appear to be any physical problems with the boards http://www.abload.de/img/img_3208cdswl.jpg http://www.abload.de/img/img_3204mosmz.jpg

I've contact AW and they said they'll send me a replacement. Which of the 3 boards is it that could be the culprit?


----------



## boroda10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> Multiple people from OCN have had these monitors for over a year without having a problem.


No one can have more than a year - they have started to sell in the spring. And 100% of those with video driver board BLUE color got problems.


----------



## boroda10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firtermish*
> 
> Still waiting for an answer on my blinking light problem. Anyone had any similar problem? Thanks!


What model of the video driver board? If CL270_MP you are welcome to our club, requiring replacement by the seller.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boroda10*
> 
> No one can have more than a year - they have started to sell in the spring. And 100% of those with video driver board BLUE color got problems.


They've been out for over a year, sorry. And yeah the blue pcb was an issue, but they've fixed that issue now.


----------



## boroda10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> They've been out for over a year, sorry. And yeah the blue pcb was an issue, but they've fixed that issue now.


I will not argue, but will stay in my opinion. Fixed a problem? How? Board HQ-LED28-1A1? Or HQ-LED28-1A?
You know what they are doing now with the board VLD0100-B6A SE? And it costs three times the price on FOB.
The concept of fixed a problem for these monitors is unacceptable. They are gathered from the fact that came to hand.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boroda10*
> 
> I will not argue, but will stay in my opinion. Fixed a problem? How? Board HQ-LED28-1A1? Or HQ-LED28-1A?
> You know what they are doing now with the board VLD0100-B6A SE? And it costs three times the price on FOB.
> The concept of fixed a problem for these monitors is unacceptable. They are gathered from the fact that came to hand.


There is a new revision of the crossover monitors, which is a 3 pcb setup, instead of the old one. The revision before that was the green pcb which did not have the overheating issue. The blue pcb problem was only a problem for the first batches of crossovers.


----------



## boroda10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> There is a new revision of the crossover monitors, which is a 3 pcb setup, instead of the old one. The revision before that was the green pcb which did not have the overheating issue. The blue pcb problem was only a problem for the first batches of crossovers.


Do you have a link to a photo 3 pcb crossover? I say again, green video driver board have at least 3 different. The reason for their choice of vendor - the weather in Antarctica. Their reliability, nobody knows - not even half a year has passed.

FYI: 30Qpro have the same mainboard like 27Q - DW270QDP MP. Unknown vendor DIGITAL Wave. What's in stock, the fact they do.
It is clear that they have different firmware.

P.S.The fact, that I order for the third time, video board driver as spare parts, and they have successfully sold, is quite revealing.
On the issue of reliability and warranty.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> Here is the link that I sent to AW regarding my panel's new defect (after two weeks of usage).
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone seen anything like this?


Looks like a faulty controller board or bad connection somewhere.


----------



## iPodge

Don't I know it now. I mean I messaged a few people on his feedback and they seemed ok, other replied saying he was a bit dodgy but ultimately they got a monitor which was fortunately fine other than a dead pixel or 2. Still no reply from him after 3 messages plus it isnt marked as shipped! I've tried to trick him and get a refund to buy the more expensive version and if a miracle occurred and he went for it i'll be straight to AW.


----------



## oomer0739

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> I have just purchased a Crossover 27Q from lightnspace which I may live to regret at this rate. I've already attempted to contact the seller a day or 2 ago regarding shipping and got zero response, so it looks like that's the last I will here of them. I pray that the screen arrives at least and just maybe it will be a good unit! People don't seem to have had the best experience with them. Incidentey who is AW seller? As they seem to get excellent reviews! Anyone had/still having an ongoing nightmare with lightnspace/astrobile?
> 
> Anyway I will keep people updated on what happens! I sincerely hope I have not lost 240GBP or ***** will go down.


I bought my 27QLED from ASTROBILE before i knew about the problems with them but am happy to say i recieved a good unit, i am in the uk and it was shipped with fedex, got held up in customs a bit
but i was invoiced by fedex a a few days after delivery and was surprised to end up only paying 22GBP in duty/fees.
heres hoping you get a good one too, really we are all taking a bit of a gamble, just some more than others.
switchblade


----------



## oobble

I have a question. On ebay, there are three 27Qs for the same price ($360) from 3 different sellers. Who is more reputable: red-cap, dream-seller, or bigclothcraft? Thanks.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> I have a question. On ebay, there are three 27Qs for the same price ($360) from 2 different sellers. Who is more reputable: red-cap, dream-seller, or bigclothcraft? Thanks.


Big Cloth Craft would be the best out of the three, and accessorieswhole would be the best out of all the sellers.


----------



## firtermish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> check the dl-dvi connection and maybe try new cable. You should contact your seller and should have when you originally got it. They can help you (especially if it's AW) or even send you replacement parts without needing monitor shipped back.


Thanks for the reply! I didn't contact the seller because a friend of mine bought it for me on ebay (from red cap). Also was extremely busy and only now started doing some research to see if I could solve the problem. I'll try to contact the seller through my friend's account ASAP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boroda10*
> 
> What model of the video driver board? If CL270_MP you are welcome to our club, requiring replacement by the seller.


That sucks but I'll contact the seller to see what he has to say. Is redcap usually reliable on refunds/replacements? Thanks for the input guys!


----------



## oobble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> Big Cloth Craft would be the best out of the three, and accessorieswhole would be the best out of all the sellers.


Thanks for the quick reply.

I have 1 more question for you guys. Accessorieswhole has a Crossover 27QD Blade that is cheaper than his normal 27Q. Is there any disadvantage to getting the 27QD over the 27Q? I don't care about the speakers.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> I have 1 more question for you guys. Accessorieswhole has a Crossover 27QD Blade that is cheaper than his normal 27Q. Is there any disadvantage to getting the 27QD over the 27Q? I don't care about the speakers.


I believe that the blade has a different stand and monitor bezel. The 27Q being the higher quality one.


----------



## davidh304

My CrossOver just died. I smelled it and I'm not sure if I smelled anything burning or if it was my imagination.

The screen goes black and then has a little light to the black. The two YouTube videos show the problem. The red power button flash blue and then back to red. There's an audible clicking for the monitor.

The screen did this for about 20 or 30 seconds then it worked fine for about 10-20 seconds then repeated. After about 5 cycles of this, it is now permanently clicking / flicking on the black screen.

I have an Asus as the second monitor. It works and I can move the mouse on to this screen and off it but nothing on the main screen. Windows is still working, I rebooted and go to the BIOS start in safe mode screen but the monitor did this again. The monitor worked for about a week and In using a Gigabyte GTX 670.

I bought from AccessoriesWhole (AW) on eBay.

Any ideas on what this might be?

Edit: I tested the DVI cable on another monitor and it worked fine, I'm thinking power brick or internal hardware.


----------



## oobble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*
> 
> I believe that the blade has a different stand and monitor bezel. The 27Q being the higher quality one.


'

Thanks a lot, you are very helpful FattyMcFatFatMcdonaldsfatassmcfatfatter


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> '
> 
> Thanks a lot, you are very helpful FattyMcFatFatMcdonaldsfatassmcfatfatter


hahahaha no problem good sir


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My CrossOver just died. I smelled it and I'm not sure if I smelled anything burning or if it was my imagination.
> 
> The screen goes black and then has a little light to the black. The two YouTube videos show the problem. The red power button flash blue and then back to red. There's an audible clicking for the monitor.
> 
> The screen did this for about 20 or 30 seconds then it worked fine for about 10-20 seconds then repeated. After about 5 cycles of this, it is now permanently clicking / flicking on the black screen.
> 
> I have an Asus as the second monitor. It works and I can move the mouse on to this screen and off it but nothing on the main screen. Windows is still working, I rebooted and go to the BIOS start in safe mode screen but the monitor did this again. The monitor worked for about a week and In using a Gigabyte GTX 670.
> 
> I bought from AccessoriesWhole (AW) on eBay.
> 
> Any ideas on what this might be?
> 
> Edit: I tested the DVI cable on another monitor and it worked fine, I'm thinking power brick or internal hardware.


is that another dl-dvi monitor you tested the cable on that can do 2560x1440?

it seems like the monitor is having issues getting signal.


----------



## iPodge

Thanks a lot for this info! However it appears he fell for my trick or got sick of the messages, I got refunded earlier this morning and have since confirmed the cancellation.

I will now head over to AW for it! Also I really fancy pivot version but think I would rather spend the extra towards a squaretrade! What do you guys reckon?

Cheers


----------



## firtermish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My CrossOver just died. I smelled it and I'm not sure if I smelled anything burning or if it was my imagination.
> 
> The screen goes black and then has a little light to the black. The two YouTube videos show the problem. The red power button flash blue and then back to red. There's an audible clicking for the monitor.
> 
> The screen did this for about 20 or 30 seconds then it worked fine for about 10-20 seconds then repeated. After about 5 cycles of this, it is now permanently clicking / flicking on the black screen.
> 
> I have an Asus as the second monitor. It works and I can move the mouse on to this screen and off it but nothing on the main screen. Windows is still working, I rebooted and go to the BIOS start in safe mode screen but the monitor did this again. The monitor worked for about a week and In using a Gigabyte GTX 670.
> 
> I bought from AccessoriesWhole (AW) on eBay.
> 
> Any ideas on what this might be?
> 
> Edit: I tested the DVI cable on another monitor and it worked fine, I'm thinking power brick or internal hardware.


I have the exact same problem : ( . Would love to know if you find any solution to this.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> Thanks a lot for this info! However it appears he fell for my trick or got sick of the messages, I got refunded earlier this morning and have since confirmed the cancellation.
> 
> I will now head over to AW for it! Also I really fancy pivot version but think I would rather spend the extra towards a squaretrade! What do you guys reckon?
> 
> Cheers


if you are buying from AW... get the pivot version. Their policy plus support and 1 yr warranty is good imo. I passed on square trade for my 3. knock on wood...


----------



## davidh304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> is that another dl-dvi monitor you tested the cable on that can do 2560x1440?
> 
> it seems like the monitor is having issues getting signal.


No, the only other monitor I have is a 1920x1080 ASUS. I don't beleive it's dual link.

Still waiting for a response from Accessories Whole. I contacted Square Trade and they said since it was within 60 days and still covered by the manufacturer that I was out of luck with them.

We will see what happens.

Thanks for the help guys. Thanks.


----------



## oobble

Sorry to bother you guys, just 1 more quick question. Dream-seller is selling a 27Q for $362.37, and accessorieswhole is selling it for $390.55. Is it worth paying $28.18 extra to buy it from accessorieswhole?


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> Sorry to bother you guys, just 1 more quick question. Dream-seller is selling a 27Q for $362.37, and accessorieswhole is selling it for $390.55. Is it worth paying $28.18 extra to buy it from accessorieswhole?


Depends on if 29 dollars is worth peace of mind for you. It was for me


----------



## tlbig10

The 27QD from accessorieswhole came in two days and from a quick check, I found zero dead pixels. This monitor is for the wife's PC, so I haven't messed with calibration or profiles, but out of the box the hardware is working great.

Her old monitor was calibrated so she notices a difference in color (definitely a little strong with the blue hues) but it's purely an email/media machine for her (no gaming, photo editing) so no big deal. I was a little worried by going with the non-pivoting stand, but as long as you don't knock it around, it should be perfectly fine. Very glad everyone pushed for the seller AW as they made the process as nearly worry-free as can be for buying a monitor from overseas. I've had many run-in's with bad monitors from online purchases and dealing with returns. I would definitely buy from AW again if I decide to make the plunge.

Crappy cell phone pic:

http://i812.photobucket.com/albums/zz44/tlbig10/jpgs/IMG_20130125_180225_zpsa7a7d0db.jpg


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> No, the only other monitor I have is a 1920x1080 ASUS. I don't beleive it's dual link.
> 
> Still waiting for a response from Accessories Whole. I contacted Square Trade and they said since it was within 60 days and still covered by the manufacturer that I was out of luck with them.
> 
> We will see what happens.
> 
> Thanks for the help guys. Thanks.


then it could still be the cable as 1080p pushes no where near the bandwidth that 1440p does. Not only that but your 1080p monitor doesn't even use all the pins in the dl-dvi plug. buy a new dl-dvi cable and try it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> Sorry to bother you guys, just 1 more quick question. Dream-seller is selling a 27Q for $362.37, and accessorieswhole is selling it for $390.55. Is it worth paying $28.18 extra to buy it from accessorieswhole?


beyond worth it.


----------



## oobble

Thanks a lot guys I will be buying from accessorieswhole. You guys should get a commission.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> Thanks a lot guys I will be buying from accessorieswhole. You guys should get a commission.


no $h!&... for as many referrals as I've sent, but it's ok. I'd rather see people take the chance and save A LOT of money by buying these koreans than blowing your cash on a dell or apple which is same thing. Yes there are inherent risks but AW has been incredibly solid for everyone.

Beware once you buy 1, you'll want more.


----------



## m.oreilly

i want two more...oh god


----------



## manishie

For all the Macbook (maybe mac mini as well?) users on this thread who haven't had great luck, I've gotten my Crossover working on my Macbook Pro and it looks great! Here's my config:


Crossover 27Q LED-P (pixel perfect from dream-seller on ebay - and it really is pixel perfect!)
Macbook Pro 17" (Late 2011)
Onboard Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 6770M 1024 MB
OS X Mountain Lion 10.8.2
And the secret sauce to make it all work: Kanex C30 Mini Displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter (currently $73.50 at adorama). I tried one of the cheapo ebay adapters and that just made my computer reboot immediately after plugging in (as many of the mac posters on this thread have experienced). Also, it definitely only works when you also plug in the USB cable off the Kanex adapter. There's no USB pass through, so make sure you have an extra port.
And I've also connected another 27" DVI Single Link monitor using the Kensington Multi Display USB Adapter (there's a slight delay because of the USB, so it wouldn't be great as a gaming monitor) for a great 3 monitor setup (including the now-puny looking built in 17" monitor).


----------



## iBerggman

I'm so excited right now! I just payed the customs for my monitor (35€/50$) and now it's on it's way here from the airport.


----------



## KingG14

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-27-2560x1440-HDMI-1-4-LG-S-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/310499389754?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item484b34b13a

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121010147777?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2cc451c1

Are these crossover panels really overclockable as the seller claims? has anyone manged to buy one of those and manged to get 120hertz?


----------



## vuman619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingG14*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-27-2560x1440-HDMI-1-4-LG-S-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/310499389754?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item484b34b13a
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121010147777?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2cc451c1
> 
> Are these crossover panels really overclockable as the seller claims? has anyone manged to buy one of those and manged to get 120hertz?


Short answer is no, reason being: you will be able to get to 120/135hz but because of bandwidth limitations it will be skipping frames rather than displaying at the stated refresh rate.


----------



## KingG14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vuman619*
> 
> Short answer is no, reason being: you will be able to get to 120/135hz but because of bandwidth limitations it will be skipping frames rather than displaying at the stated refresh rate.


thanks for the replay, that's what i thought in the first place, but can you please explain what the fuzz is all about at http://120hz.net/ , a lot of people seem to buy from them.


----------



## Manticorps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingG14*
> 
> thanks for the replay, that's what i thought in the first place, but can you please explain what the fuzz is all about at http://120hz.net/ , a lot of people seem to buy from them.


That Monitor is the 2B version of the Yamasaki Catleap. It uses different hardware to drive the Monitor, as far as I know, the only variants of these monitors potentially capable of reaching 120Hz are the 2B variant of the Yamakasi Catleap and the Overlord.


----------



## davidh304

My monitor just spontaneously started to work again. So we will see what happens.

AccessoriesWhore got back to me with helpful info to self diagnose the problem. Hopefully it will hold up.


----------



## firtermish

Can you please give details on what he told you about self diagnosing your monitor? Thanks!


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

My monitor wouldn't turn on when I woke up today, just had a red power signal. So I unhooked everything, switched dvi-d ends, and then plugged everything back in... and it didn't wokr, till i realized i was an idiot and plugged it into my motherboard instead of my graphics card. Plugged it into my graphics card again, and now everything is peachy.


----------



## myrtleee34

★CROSSOVER★NEW 27QD LED BLADE 2560x1440
who all are running this monitor? I just got one this week, but I can not get CRISP WHITE color from this monitor. I am looking for some tuning help. I have nvidia 680 sli for video cards.


----------



## Voyager7

Does anyone have experience with VESA mounting Crossovers? I was wondering whether the black back version or the white backed version would be better.

I noticed that someone posted a problem with mounting the white version earlier on in this thread, but I'm not sure whether this has been resolved or not: http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c9/c9b0ed4e_DSC04199.jpeg


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

as far as I know the'yre exactly the same... just a different color. And yeah, it seems they have some trouble with vesa mounts. If you're going to mount this monitor, it'd be smart to buy a less expensive korean monitor, as the reason the crossovers are more expensive is because of their stands.

Edit: I believe it's the shimian that is easier to mount, but it could be the catleap


----------



## iMica

I got gift credit for amazon for 400 dollars and was looking at 2560 x 1440 p monitors (since I don't need anything else atm)

Saw someone selling crossover 27Q and 27QD for like 355-390 dollars. Worth it? No idea what else to buy on amazon lmao.....


----------



## rattlerskin

I just ordered one on Monday night (two days ago) and it already arrived! AccesoryWhole definitely met my initial expectations and I will update as soon as I open it and check it out. On a side note, I bought the power cable and DVI cable referenced in the original post and I have go say, that DVI cable is going to be the most heavy-duty cable I have plugged into my computer.


----------



## crzycuyler

I am not happy with AW. I have a defective panel and they seem to be dodging any responsibility. I pretty disappointed in the communication. I have sent videos of the defect and first reached out to them regarding the issue January 21. I check daily and respond promptly to anything they send me, but the last thing they sent me asked me if I would accept a partial refund. I replied saying I want a new monitor. I am eagerly awaiting their response. I purchased this monitor January 6.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> I am not happy with AW. I have a defective panel and they seem to be dodging any responsibility. I pretty disappointed in the communication. I have sent videos of the defect and first reached out to them regarding the issue January 21. I check daily and respond promptly to anything they send me, but the last thing they sent me asked me if I would accept a partial refund. I replied saying I want a new monitor. I am eagerly awaiting their response. I purchased this monitor January 6.


What is the defect?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> I am not happy with AW. I have a defective panel and they seem to be dodging any responsibility. I pretty disappointed in the communication. I have sent videos of the defect and first reached out to them regarding the issue January 21. I check daily and respond promptly to anything they send me, but the last thing they sent me asked me if I would accept a partial refund. I replied saying I want a new monitor. I am eagerly awaiting their response. I purchased this monitor January 6.


that's a first and doesn't sound like AW at all... what is the "defect"?


----------



## crzycuyler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> What is the defect?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> that's a first and doesn't sound like AW at all... what is the "defect"?







It's not a great video. My friend made it with his iPhone 4 pretty late one night. There are horizontal lines most noticeable along the taskbar. Those same lines continue all the way up the screen, but the camera didn't capture it well when displaying white.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a great video. My friend made it with his iPhone 4 pretty late one night. There are horizontal lines most noticeable along the taskbar. Those same lines continue all the way up the screen, but the camera didn't capture it well when displaying white.


Have you tried new dl-dvi cable?


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crzycuyler*
> 
> I am not happy with AW. I have a defective panel and they seem to be dodging any responsibility.


I just ordered one from him on Sunday for $397, got it on Tuesday in GA. It has 0 dead pixels and the backlight bleed is non-existent, better than any picture I've seen posted by any forum user. Probably has better backlight uniformity/lack of bleed than any monitor I've ever owned and I've had 10-15 LCDs. The picture looks like using a 27 inch version of an NEC 20wmgx2, which is one of the top image quality monitors ever released. I paid $700 for one of those NECs right when they came out, and it was a 20 inch IPS.

Mine didn't have any of the issues I've seen reported with these panels such as a buzzing noise from the monitor (which my NEC IPS did have), or minimum brightness being too high. I think mine goes to around 80cdm2 at minimum brightness.

Having said that, I might sell my 27Q anyway. I don't have 20/20 vision and was using a 27" 1080p before this. For my viewing distance and eyesight, I prefer the larger pixels/text personally. Now I'm trying to figure out what I can sell a perfect 27Q for without taking too much of a loss. I'll post pictures of everything if anyone is interested.

The smallest pixel pitch I can handle is 1920x1200 on a 24" which is .27, this one is .23 Some people like smaller pixel density, but it's just not for me.


----------



## iPodge

Ordered my 27Q LED-P from AW a day or 2 ago just seen that it was marked as dispatched yesterday. I'm excited to see it and get going, though I know im gonna have a nightmare with HM customs in the UK! although the price doesn't bother me its more the delay! Is there a way I can avoid waiting the 5 days or whatever for the letter to arrive informing me it is waiting for me at customs until I pay for its release!?

will keep you updated on my screen!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I just ordered one from him on Sunday for $397, got it on Tuesday in GA. It has 0 dead pixels and the backlight bleed is non-existent, better than any picture I've seen posted by any forum user. Probably has better backlight uniformity/lack of bleed than any monitor I've ever owned and I've had 10-15 LCDs. The picture looks like using a 27 inch version of an NEC 20wmgx2, which is one of the top image quality monitors ever released. I paid $700 for one of those NECs right when they came out, and it was a 20 inch IPS.
> 
> Mine didn't have any of the issues I've seen reported with these panels such as a buzzing noise from the monitor (which my NEC IPS did have), or minimum brightness being too high. I think mine goes to around 80cdm2 at minimum brightness.
> 
> Having said that, I might sell my 27Q anyway. I don't have 20/20 vision and was using a 27" 1080p before this. For my viewing distance and eyesight, I prefer the larger pixels/text personally. Now I'm trying to figure out what I can sell a perfect 27Q for without taking too much of a loss. I'll post pictures of everything if anyone is interested.
> 
> The smallest pixel pitch I can handle is 1920x1200 on a 24" which is .27, this one is .23 Some people like smaller pixel density, but it's just not for me.


just increase size in windows and don't go back to 1080p.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> just increase size in windows and don't go back to 1080p.


I set windows DPI to 108% up from 100%, but it doesn't really fix the everything is tiny issue for people that don't have 20/20 vision or that don't sit close to the screen. I sit far back enough from my monitor that I didn't get the screen door effect with 1080p on a 27inch, so sitting the same distance with this monitor is just too small for me.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I set windows DPI to 108% up from 100%, but it doesn't really fix the everything is tiny issue for people that don't have 20/20 vision or that don't sit close to the screen. I sit far back enough from my monitor that I didn't get the screen door effect with 1080p on a 27inch, so sitting the same distance with this monitor is just too small for me.


unfortunate. sounds like you need a tv instead.


----------



## Descadent

post error please delete


----------



## Descadent

ignore


----------



## Descadent

wow... forum just went crazy with triple posting.


----------



## monistor

hey

i want to buy a new Korean monitor 27 inch but i don't what the best monitor in that size and i want it 10 bit color i heard its better than 10 bit color do you think that

and what the deference between

this monitor
http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP
and that
http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2730MD

and in this question

What's the difference between the 27Q LED and LED-P?
LED-P can pivot (-P "Pivot") or rotate vertically as shown here. Other than that, they are essentially the same display.

but i see the place in speaker changed
in that
http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP

its under the monitor but
in that
http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDPP
its in the middle of monitor and its 6w

please i need your help

thanks


----------



## mattiamez

Hi all!!

I have a big issue wih my crossover q27 linked in dvi-d dual link with a nvidia gtx660.

sometimes, when i turn on pc/return from standby or hybernate status o when i turn on with the botton, my crossover shows a lot of small flashing dots in different positions.
i have to turn off manually and then turn on again (for many times if it's necessary) to return in a normal status.
it remains in good conditions till next monitor turn off.

It seems like, sometimes, my monitor could not connect with my vga and i have to turn off and then on to reconnect.

here there's a video:





PLEASE HELP ME BOYS,

here in italy this monitors aren't diffused so i cant ask help in our forums,
i know that u are more experts and for my problem, that i think it is not so common, your knowledge will help!
thanks mattia


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> hey
> 
> i want to buy a new Korean monitor 27 inch but i don't what the best monitor in that size and i want it 10 bit color i heard its better than 10 bit color do you think that
> 
> and what the deference between
> 
> this monitor
> http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP
> and that
> http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2730MD
> 
> and in this question
> 
> What's the difference between the 27Q LED and LED-P?
> LED-P can pivot (-P "Pivot") or rotate vertically as shown here. Other than that, they are essentially the same display.
> 
> but i see the place in speaker changed
> in that
> http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP
> 
> its under the monitor but
> in that
> http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDPP
> its in the middle of monitor and its 6w
> 
> please i need your help
> 
> thanks


read the OP and search this thread. every question has been answered


----------



## Zorbak

I'm new to this forum, and i just wanted to put in my 2 cents on my new Crossover monitor. I ordered the 27qd non-pivot version from lightnspace on monday the 28th of January. If i had seen this forum before I made the purchase, I might not have gone with lightnspace because of some complaints on this forum. The monitor arrived today (thursday the 31st)...a crazy fast 4 days later considering it came all the way from South Korea. It was packaged tightly in it's original box, and upon opening it up, it appeared pristine.

I plugged everything in tightly, and chose to use a generic power cord i already had than using the south koean version with adapter that came with it. I hooked it up to my gtx260, and nervously held my breath while i booted up my machine. Windows recognized it immediately, and it booted into windows with no problem at all. The screen is absolutely perfect. There might be one dead pixel, but it could also be a very, very small speck of dirt, I can't tell. No one in a million years would ever see it. Windows booted directly into 2560x1440, and the image on this screen can only be described as immaculate. At this point I've had it running for a few hours..fired up Portal at 2560x1440 and I know that i'm in for some fun when it comes to gaming. I just ordered 2 evga gtx670 FTW 4gb cards yesterday, and they will arrive in a day or two. This is gonna be great!

I'm very happy with lightnspace so far, but of course I've had no problems. The monitor arrived here in Montana 2 days after I got my notice that it had shipped. I payed 5 bucks extra for FedEx shipping. They didn't provide me with a tracking number, which made me nervous, but it showed up with lightning speed.

I'll update here if i have any issues of any kind, but at this point i'm happy as a clam that i got this great monitor for only 340 bucks!


----------



## Descadent

Ok. so figured out how to get two videos in 1 today. Here is crysis 3 7680x1440 dual view.







with my crossovers

and yes I had to use a controller







so I wasn't in the video like the one I did before with camera. Hope doesn't make anyone dizzy







don't forget 1080p


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Ok. so figured out how to get two videos in 1 today. Here is crysis 3 7680x1440 dual view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with my crossovers
> 
> and yes I had to use a controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I wasn't in the video like the one I did before with camera. Hope doesn't make anyone dizzy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't forget 1080p


Ha we are reading the same threads consistantly. I just saw this post in the crysis thread.


----------



## r0ach

Pictures of my 27Q I got 2 days ago for $397 from AW on ebay. Probably going to sell it if I can get $300 shipped. I can't get used to the tiny dot pitch when I've been using a 1080p 27" for something like 2 years now. Makes my eyes hurt trying to squint to read text on this monitor. The picture with firefox is where I have text enlarged already in the main window, and the address bar up top is unscaled and is the size text usually is. It has perfect backlight uniformity with 0 bleed and 0 dead pixels. The 2nd picture where the wallpaper doesn't go all the way to the edge and all you see is the black border is exactly how dark it looks in real life.


----------



## Zorbak

to be honest, i don't understand why you'd give up this killer monitor, when you can increase the size of text to just as large as it was at 1920x1080. if you have windows 7, just right click on your desktop and select "screen resolution", then click on "make text and other items larger or smaller". this should fix your problem. the only difference will be that everything should be even clearer than before.


----------



## MGX1016

I was looking to finally jump ship with these things but noticed red-cap had a FH320 for sale

http://stores.ebay.com/Red-Cap-Worldwide/_i.html?_nkw=achieva+32&submit=Search&_sid=1024689994

Now 32" just sounds better than 27................ Any ideas on the deal with the tempered glass?

And looking through red-caps there are so many versions of this thing! I'm about to go back a couple pages on this thread and see which ones you guys recommend buying


----------



## Mazino

hello

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033

i were looking at this really thinking to get one, how is it for gaming " wanna use for mmo especially lol" and how is colors and such and whats the height of the monitor?

reading about those korean monitors really make me want to get one for my MMo playing T_T


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> read the OP and search this thread. every question has been answered


i am sorry but English language isn't my main language so what do you mean read op and you want me to read 473 page???????????

iwant one answer what the best 27 inch screen can buy now

thanks man


----------



## Agoriaz

OP = Original Post
Use the Search This Thread function, located at the top of the page, and do a quick search to see if your question hasn't already been answered.
Besides, I can't point out which one type of these Koreans is _the_ best panel, simply because there are so many different ones. Achieva, Overlord, Crossover, Catleap, Auria and a few other new re-brands. Read up on the stock available and make your decision,.


----------



## iPodge

My 27Q-P is currently in Germany! Its a shame this insanely fast shipping will go to waste when it takes 5 days to get my letter from customs! Anyone know if i can get in touch with Parcel force or Royal mail as soon as I see its at uk customs? Instead of waiting for what will be ages probably!


----------



## TreeFrogX

Hi folks,
My 27Q order arrived this week, and I have a couple of questions I hope you guys can help with.

I'm setting up a triple-monitor rig with a GTX670, which has 2 DVI, 1 HDMI and 1 DP output. I thought I could use the HDMI out for the third monitor. Has anyone got their monitor working via HDMI cable > DVI adapter? Supposedly the cable and adapter I have are HDMI1.4 compliant, and the adapter puts out a dual link DVI signal. I've tested it successfully with my old 1920*1200 Benq, so I know it's putting out *some* kind of signal, but the 27Q doesn't seem to like it - black screen is all I get.

Also, does anyone else have a monitor with a broken brightness-down button? If so, did you manage to fix it? I need to make a video of the problem for AccessoriesWhole so they can diagnose, just wondering if it was a common thing. Two of the monitors are fine, it's just one of them that has a dodgy button.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazino*
> 
> hello
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033
> 
> i were looking at this really thinking to get one, how is it for gaming " wanna use for mmo especially lol" and how is colors and such and whats the height of the monitor?
> 
> reading about those korean monitors really make me want to get one for my MMo playing T_T


this ENTIRE thread is dedicated to the crossover. I suggest you read it and you will find your answers.

New comers we could really cut down on asking the same question every page if people would just read the op, read the thread, and use the search feature for the thread. We sound like broken records.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TreeFrogX*
> 
> Hi folks,
> My 27Q order arrived this week, and I have a couple of questions I hope you guys can help with.
> 
> I'm setting up a triple-monitor rig with a GTX670, which has 2 DVI, 1 HDMI and 1 DP output. I thought I could use the HDMI out for the third monitor. Has anyone got their monitor working via HDMI cable > DVI adapter? Supposedly the cable and adapter I have are HDMI1.4 compliant, and the adapter puts out a dual link DVI signal. I've tested it successfully with my old 1920*1200 Benq, so I know it's putting out *some* kind of signal, but the 27Q doesn't seem to like it - black screen is all I get.
> 
> Also, does anyone else have a monitor with a broken brightness-down button? If so, did you manage to fix it? I need to make a video of the problem for AccessoriesWhole so they can diagnose, just wondering if it was a common thing. Two of the monitors are fine, it's just one of them that has a dodgy button.


you need two cards if you plan on gaming for one thing. 1 670 would get murdered.

and if you want to hook all 3 up to that 1 670. you use both dvi's and you have to buy a dp to dl-dvi ACTIVE adapter for the 3rd monitor.


----------



## Tibag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> My 27Q-P is currently in Germany! Its a shame this insanely fast shipping will go to waste when it takes 5 days to get my letter from customs! Anyone know if i can get in touch with Parcel force or Royal mail as soon as I see its at uk customs? Instead of waiting for what will be ages probably!


I can't really help you, but let us know how is it going with your order (I am also living in the UK). Which seller did you go for by the way?


----------



## iPodge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tibag*
> 
> I can't really help you, but let us know how is it going with your order (I am also living in the UK). Which seller did you go for by the way?


I will do, you probably haven't read a few pages back but I originally bought from 'lightnspace' and then came here and managed to get a refund before it was sent (somehow - I can expand if you want!). I then went to AW (AccessoriesWhole) who if you read this thread is hands down the best seller, in 2 days it's now in Paris so the main problem with UK will be the customs! Insane shipping, I will let you know how the panel is though!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Alright! All 6 monitors are setup but I ran inot an issue with 2 of them lol. The tinting is so extreme that I think there is actual damage to the panel or pcb's. The 6 monitor array on 2 PC's and on 1 PC setup is awesome with these monitors.
Already troubleshooted for the 2 monitors and Can't get it to match the rest of the monitors. The color's are to extreme that profiles don't work lol.
Contacting AW to get this rectified.
Oh and BTW it seems Nancy who is usually the one we all speak or email has removed her self from the team and no longer works there. Good luck to her in what ever else she decides to do.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Alright! All 6 monitors are setup but I ran inot an issue with 2 of them lol. The tinting is so extreme that I think there is actual damage to the panel or pcb's. The 6 monitor array on 2 PC's and on 1 PC setup is awesome with these monitors.
> Already troubleshooted for the 2 monitors and Can't get it to match the rest of the monitors. The color's are to extreme that profiles don't work lol.
> Contacting AW to get this rectified.
> Oh and BTW it seems Nancy who is usually the one we all speak or email has removed her self from the team and no longer works there. Good luck to her in what ever else she decides to do.


Lets see some pictures of your array?


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agoriaz*
> 
> OP = Original Post
> Use the Search This Thread function, located at the top of the page, and do a quick search to see if your question hasn't already been answered.
> Besides, I can't point out which one type of these Koreans is _the_ best panel, simply because there are so many different ones. Achieva, Overlord, Crossover, Catleap, Auria and a few other new re-brands. Read up on the stock available and make your decision,.


i want to know the difference between
this
Crossover 2720MDP GOLD LED
http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP
and this
Crossover 2730MD LED Return of the King
http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2730MD

and what is the best crossover panel in 27 inch screen

thanks guys


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Alright! All 6 monitors are setup but I ran inot an issue with 2 of them lol. The tinting is so extreme that I think there is actual damage to the panel or pcb's. The 6 monitor array on 2 PC's and on 1 PC setup is awesome with these monitors.
> Already troubleshooted for the 2 monitors and Can't get it to match the rest of the monitors. The color's are to extreme that profiles don't work lol.
> Contacting AW to get this rectified.
> Oh and BTW it seems Nancy who is usually the one we all speak or email has removed her self from the team and no longer works there. Good luck to her in what ever else she decides to do.


yeah pics!

and interesting. she was good. really what made AW, AW from what we know AW as... hope their reputation continues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> i want to know the difference between
> this
> Crossover 2720MDP GOLD LED
> http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP
> and this
> Crossover 2730MD LED Return of the King
> http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2730MD
> 
> and what is the best crossover panel in 27 inch screen
> 
> thanks guys


you link links that the images are in all korean







... but the op breaks down every crossover monitor

and best is led-p but depends if you need multi input or not. you are looking at multi input crossovers in those links.


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> yeah pics!
> 
> and interesting. she was good. really what made AW, AW from what we know AW as... hope their reputation continues.
> you link links that the images are in all korean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... but the op breaks down every crossover monitor
> 
> and best is led-p but depends if you need multi input or not. you are looking at multi input crossovers in those links.


you can use google chrome to translate and that my card http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?cid=1&gid=3&sgid=643&pid=305&psn=&lid=1&leg=0#


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> you can use google chrome to translate and that my card http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?cid=1&gid=3&sgid=643&pid=305&psn=&lid=1&leg=0#


you can't translate images. like I said... and with that card all you need is 27q led-p. your card has dl dvi but don't expect any good gaming performance at 1440p with that card.


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you can't translate images. like I said... and with that card all you need is 27q led-p. your card has dl dvi but don't expect any good gaming performance at 1440p with that card.


these monitors are 10 bit coulur

and that images
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-2560x1440-27-QHD-S-IPS-HDMI-Speaker-Monitor-/120901146842?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c264518da

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-27-2560x1440-HDMI-1-4-LG-S-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121051875167?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c2f41075f


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> these monitors are 10 bit coulur
> 
> and that images
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-2560x1440-27-QHD-S-IPS-HDMI-Speaker-Monitor-/120901146842?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c264518da
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-LED-27-2560x1440-HDMI-1-4-LG-S-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/121051875167?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c2f41075f


so you answered your own question then. I'm sorry language barrier between us is not helping. Go with whatever you want. but every difference is described in this thread and on the ebay listings. You'll have to compare and contrast what you want.


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> so you answered your own question then. I'm sorry language barrier between us is not helping. Go with whatever you want. but every difference is described in this thread and on the eBay listings. You'll have to compare and contrast what you want.


i don't know you are angry but i am asking question to learn more about these monitor because idont know what the best for me and ahat the best company out there and a read the 10 bit color is better than 8 bit color so don't be angry

i am sorry


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> i don't know you are angry but i am asking question to learn more about these monitor because idont know what the best for me and ahat the best company out there and a read the 10 bit color is better than 8 bit color so don't be angry
> 
> i am sorry


i am not angry, but everything you need to know that you can research on your own is 100% in this thread and in the respective ebay listings.


----------



## monistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> i am not angry, but everything you need to know that you can research on your own is 100% in this thread and in the respective ebay listings.


i want to know some thing is will be different between 8 bit and 10 bit color or 10 bit color is lie

and what is that mean

10-bit 250 10 eok Color


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monistor*
> 
> i want to know some thing is will be different between 8 bit and 10 bit color or 10 bit color is lie
> 
> and what is that mean
> 
> 10-bit 250 10 eok Color


search...

http://www.overclock.net/newsearch/?search=10+bit&resultSortingPreference=recency&output=posts&type=all&containingthread%5B0%5D=1232496&advanced=1


----------



## oomer0739

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> Ordered my 27Q LED-P from AW a day or 2 ago just seen that it was marked as dispatched yesterday. I'm excited to see it and get going, though I know im gonna have a nightmare with HM customs in the UK! although the price doesn't bother me its more the delay! Is there a way I can avoid waiting the 5 days or whatever for the letter to arrive informing me it is waiting for me at customs until I pay for its release!?
> 
> will keep you updated on my screen!


Hi, i am in uk and mine was delivered first and an invoice from fedex arrived later.


----------



## iPodge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oomer0739*
> 
> Hi, i am in uk and mine was delivered first and an invoice from fedex arrived later.


uh! Surely that is not a smart move by FedEx haha


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> uh! Surely that is not a smart move by FedEx haha


Considering this is how they deliver monitors, not surprising.


----------



## mattiamez

hi all!!

i have got a problem on my crossover q27. may anyone has a problem like mine! please take a look:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1355706/crossover-q27-flashing-dots-issue-please-help-me

when i turn on the monitor sometimes flashing dots appears and i have to turn off and turn on again to use it normally.
link utube: 




when "it's normal" i can use it forever without problem till next till next turn off/stanby etc.

have u got an email for CROSSOVER Official assistance or any advice for me?

i think it's a monitor problem: sometimes it dosen't communicate well with my VGA (nvidia gtx660)

PLEASE HELP ME GUYS!


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*


offtopic, Great to see that other people liked DNF like i did, the reviews most sites gave were really wrong and probably written without even playing it.


----------



## iPodge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Considering this is how they deliver monitors, not


That is absolutely appalling! What a disgrace


----------



## firtermish

Hi all! I'm reading this thread daily waiting for someone to give me a hint on how to diagnose my problem. I'll rewrite about it so you don't have to go back a few pages and look it up. My monitor's on/off led flickers constantly and the screen tries to turn on but fails to do so over and over again, giving no image whatsoever. Suggestions? I heard other people had the same problem.

Thanks!


----------



## boroda10

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111004092960?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Video driver board Zyglobal HQ-LED28-1A for repairing a backlight of Crossover 27Q monitor
and other Korean monitors based on 27" panel s-ips LG LM270WQ1


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *firtermish*
> 
> My monitor's on/off led flickers constantly and the screen tries to turn on but fails to do so over and over again, giving no image whatsoever.


Might be the power brick supplying insufficient current, or unstable voltage. Check the power brick using a multimeter. If you have another power brick with matching specifications, try it. Might also be an ailing PCB. Multiple people have seen the blue PCB fail in the 27Q. The blue PCB has only one MOSFET. The green PCB, its successor, has three and appears to work fine. Search this thread for comments on the blue and green PCB. There's also pictures, making it easier for you to compare your problem to others that have been reported.


----------



## firtermish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> Might be the power brick supplying insufficient current, or unstable voltage. Check the power brick using a multimeter. If you have another power brick with matching specifications, try it. Might also be an ailing PCB. Multiple people have seen the blue PCB fail in the 27Q. The blue PCB has only one MOSFET. The green PCB, its successor, has three and appears to work fine. Search this thread for comments on the blue and green PCB. There's also pictures, making it easier for you to compare your problem to others that have been reported.


Thanks a bunch! I'll prowl the entire thread and look for that!


----------



## blairellis642

Just bought a Perfect Pixel Pivot version from Red-Cap on eBay. We'll see how it turns out!


----------



## firtermish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> Might be the power brick supplying insufficient current, or unstable voltage. Check the power brick using a multimeter. If you have another power brick with matching specifications, try it. Might also be an ailing PCB. Multiple people have seen the blue PCB fail in the 27Q. The blue PCB has only one MOSFET. The green PCB, its successor, has three and appears to work fine. Search this thread for comments on the blue and green PCB. There's also pictures, making it easier for you to compare your problem to others that have been reported.


Thank you so much! (you and everyone else giving their input). In the end I "solved" it myself! (so proud : P ). It was (apparently) a problem with the connection between the panel and the main board. I unplugged and replugged the cable and VOILA.I have a green PCB. For those having the same problem with their Crossovers, I'm not saying doing what I just did will solve your problem if you had the same issue I did (flashing LED and no image) but it's certainly worth a shot!

BTW: opening this up is reaaaaaaally easy if you are careful going at it. If you have any questions about I'll be more than glad to give ye a hand! : )

P.S: I hope this monitor lasts me quite a while, I really love the image quality : )


----------



## gandhi1

Does anyone know the cheapest way to do return shipping to Korea for one of these? The 27Q LED-P I bought from dreamseller has 12 dead pixels, a yellow tint on the bottom half of the screen, a buzzing sound from the monitor, and a clicking sound from the power brick.

UPS and DHL want like $500 to ship to Korea, which makes no sense to me. USPS is $130, but I have seen people saying they were able to do their returns for $90-100.


----------



## bleepjay

I just received a Crossover 27QD from AW and hooked it up to my Mac Mini via a Monoprice mini display port to active dual link dvi.\

The monitor LED turns blue, the screen comes up, but after a few seconds, the display turns off and the LED turns back red. I've swapped out the DVI cables, changed USB ports, but nothing will hold this monitor on. Do I have a bad monitor or do I have another issue. Is it possible the power supply is bad? Should I open this thing up to verify the connections are hooked up solid?

TIA, I don't really want to send this thing back to Korea


----------



## Agoriaz

Since I didn't win the first round of the ultimate rig contest, and I've grown impatient, I jumped the gun on the 27Q LED-P as of writing. I am excited and anxious of what I'll recieve in terms of panel and quality, wish me luck!


----------



## Tibag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> I will do, you probably haven't read a few pages back but I originally bought from 'lightnspace' and then came here and managed to get a refund before it was sent (somehow - I can expand if you want!). I then went to AW (AccessoriesWhole) who if you read this thread is hands down the best seller, in 2 days it's now in Paris so the main problem with UK will be the customs! Insane shipping, I will let you know how the panel is though!


Thanks for your answer. I know AW seems to be the best way to order those, I'm used to lurk that topic.









Look forward to your feedback.


----------



## DrunkPoseidon

So I recently got a crossover 27q from AW and its beautiful and I have found no flaws or dead/stuck pixels. I am quite pleased with the whole process. I am a bit worried about the power brick though. I replaced the cord to one for a US plug but the power brick makes a clicking noise all the time non stop. It doesn't seem to get hot at all so I am curious as to why its making this noise. Should I replace it? or am I being paranoid? if I should replace it where can I get a replacement?
Thanks in advance!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrunkPoseidon*
> 
> So I recently got a crossover 27q from AW and its beautiful and I have found no flaws or dead/stuck pixels. I am quite pleased with the whole process. I am a bit worried about the power brick though. I replaced the cord to one for a US plug but the power brick makes a clicking noise all the time non stop. It doesn't seem to get hot at all so I am curious as to why its making this noise. Should I replace it? or am I being paranoid? if I should replace it where can I get a replacement?
> Thanks in advance!


wouldn't hurt to ask AW about it. I had one fail on me the day I got one of my 3 and they sent a replace out next day air.


----------



## iiDeadSeriousii

I think I've finally decided on a 27" Korean monitor and everything points to the Crossover brand being the best for what I want. I have my desk with a slightly elevated monitor stand and tilting down is a must for me on the included stand which this Crossover apparently has. The success rate on these Crossovers also bolstered some confidence in me. My only big issue now is actually buying the thing lol. I went through ebay and couldn't really discern who are the best sellers for this monitor.

I found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixles-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-27-PC-Monitor-Worldwide-/321039608066?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abf73a902

And everything looked pretty good until about halfway down I saw the picture for built in stereo speakers. I do not need this and would rather save a few bucks. I tried looking through several other listings from this seller and I can't find which one I need since they all advertise very similar things.

I need the base Crossover 27Q model, I don't need the P pivot model, nor do I need built in stereo speakers or any extra video connections. The only thing I would like is the Pixel Perfect guarantee and free shipping. Can somebody please point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance guys.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iiDeadSeriousii*
> 
> I think I've finally decided on a 27" Korean monitor and everything points to the Crossover brand being the best for what I want. I have my desk with a slightly elevated monitor stand and tilting down is a must for me on the included stand which this Crossover apparently has. The success rate on these Crossovers also bolstered some confidence in me. My only big issue now is actually buying the thing lol. I went through ebay and couldn't really discern who are the best sellers for this monitor.
> 
> I found this:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixles-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-27-PC-Monitor-Worldwide-/321039608066?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abf73a902
> 
> And everything looked pretty good until about halfway down I saw the picture for built in stereo speakers. I do not need this and would rather save a few bucks. I tried looking through several other listings from this seller and I can't find which one I need since they all advertise very similar things.
> 
> I need the base Crossover 27Q model, I don't need the P pivot model, nor do I need built in stereo speakers or any extra video connections. The only thing I would like is the Pixel Perfect guarantee and free shipping. Can somebody please point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance guys.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033

no if ands or buts. if you want barebones crossover it's just 27q as the OP states. and accessorieswhole is #1

pixel perfect isn't worth it with AW's policy. less than 3 dead pixels (95% I guarantee it won't have any) and they only sell A panels vs. other sellers sell A-


----------



## Lholozon86

My Crossover screen isn't functioning while the blue light is still on, could it be the DVI cable or something else?


----------



## alig23

I get occasional flicker once and a while. For perhaps a split second whatever is on screen does a quick I don't know what, because its there and gone that fast. I have NEVER noticed it in any games, which leads me to believe it might be a driver issue. Its pretty similar to this, expect for a shorter duration, and maybe only 2-3 times in a 12 hour day. 




Anyone else get this?


----------



## chill1217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alig23*
> 
> I get occasional flicker once and a while. For perhaps a split second whatever is on screen does a quick I don't know what, because its there and gone that fast. I have NEVER noticed it in any games, which leads me to believe it might be a driver issue. Its pretty similar to this, expect for a shorter duration, and maybe only 2-3 times in a 12 hour day.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else get this?


the latest amd beta drivers fix some flickering issues


----------



## Agoriaz

I'm impressed with AW. Less than 24 hours after making my purchase I've already received my tracking, confirmed with FedEx and ETA is this Friday. I'm stoked.


----------



## Kiracubed

I see Accessories Whole accepts returns with buyer paying shipping, but under which terms? Do they have a satisfaction guarantee? Like, if I don't like it, I can return it, no questions asked for a full refund, but shipping at my expense?

My main concern is Nvidia Surround. I already own an Auria EQ276W, and want to try Nvidia surround. Normally, I'd go through Micro Center again, but AW on eBay has this Crossover 27Q LED for $30 off for $289.98!!!!!!
















I have 2 monitors, all 27", but different resolutions and similar sized bezels (my main issue). How is everyone's feedback with returns with AW on eBay, or surround gaming and how the bezels looks or distract from gaming?


----------



## Mazino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiracubed*
> 
> I see Accessories Whole accepts returns with buyer paying shipping, but under which terms? Do they have a satisfaction guarantee? Like, if I don't like it, I can return it, no questions asked for a full refund, but shipping at my expense?
> 
> My main concern is Nvidia Surround. I already own an Auria EQ276W, and want to try Nvidia surround. Normally, I'd go through Micro Center again, but AW on eBay has this Crossover 27Q LED for $30 off for $289.98!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 monitors, all 27", but different resolutions and similar sized bezels (my main issue). How is everyone's feedback with returns with AW on eBay, or surround gaming and how the bezels looks or distract from gaming?


think this one without shipment included , with shipping will be just like other ones with free ship


----------



## Kiracubed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazino*
> 
> think this one without shipment included , with shipping will be just like other ones with free ship


Just saw that! Swindled! Gah! Lol

Found an answer to my own question about surround gaming, thanks to the user a few pages back who posted Crysis 3 in surround. Thanks for that! The bezels actually look like they won't distract much.

I guess I'll look through AW's supply and see which is cheapest, as I think the 27Q LED is a safe bet, from what I read here.


----------



## Mazino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiracubed*
> 
> Just saw that! Swindled! Gah! Lol
> 
> Found an answer to my own question about surround gaming, thanks to the user a few pages back who posted Crysis 3 in surround. Thanks for that! The bezels actually look like they won't distract much.
> 
> I guess I'll look through AW's supply and see which is cheapest, as I think the 27Q LED is a safe bet, from what I read here.


yea im probably gona end up with one from AW, MMOing on big screen will make it sureeeeeeeee good


----------



## Kiracubed

Not to come off as a broken record, but what's the difference between the 27Q LED and the 27QD LED Blade Crossover? Is it just the speakers and the Blade having an all black design, rather than a white back? The Blade seems to be cheapest price w/ free shipping.


----------



## Mazino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiracubed*
> 
> Not to come off as a broken record, but what's the difference between the 27Q LED and the 27QD LED Blade Crossover? Is it just the speakers and the Blade having an all black design, rather than a white back? The Blade seems to be cheapest price w/ free shipping.


yea think so, and probably its new ver of the monitor?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiracubed*
> 
> Not to come off as a broken record, but what's the difference between the 27Q LED and the 27QD LED Blade Crossover? Is it just the speakers and the Blade having an all black design, rather than a white back? The Blade seems to be cheapest price w/ free shipping.


speakers and different outer casing is difference. regular crossover or led-p is just sexier


----------



## Rayhan2k

Hi folks

i got my crossover 27q led-p from Accessories Whole about a month ago and it arrived sharpish well packaged and so far im very happy with it. im from the Uk and so far no fedex charge either, happy days

my quesiton is that ive been reading up this thread about the mosfet burning on the blue pcb's issue, and from what i can tell i may have a blue pcb

Can someone please help me verify this as when i look directly at the back of my crossover, in the middle i can see a blue pcb, direct to the left of this i can see a green pcb (whereabouts is the led pcb located which is the supposed troublesome pcb)

from what i can gather, AW claim that they only sell green pcb crossover monitors based on there post in this thread. Before i email them to ask them to send me a zyglobal replacement pcb to help future proof my monitor, i just need a little pointer in the right direction, so i know which one i currently have.

thanks in advance


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayhan2k*
> 
> Hi folks
> 
> i got my crossover 27q led-p from Accessories Whole about a month ago and it arrived sharpish well packaged and so far im very happy with it. im from the Uk and so far no fedex charge either, happy days
> 
> my quesiton is that ive been reading up this thread about the mosfet burning on the blue pcb's issue, and from what i can tell i may have a blue pcb
> 
> Can someone please help me verify this as when i look directly at the back of my crossover, in the middle i can see a blue pcb, direct to the left of this i can see a green pcb (whereabouts is the led pcb located which is the supposed troublesome pcb)
> 
> from what i can gather, AW claim that they only sell green pcb crossover monitors based on there post in this thread. Before i email them to ask them to send me a zyglobal replacement pcb to help future proof my monitor, i just need a little pointer in the right direction, so i know which one i currently have.
> 
> thanks in advance


open it up and look, and use search function for this thread. it is all covered. it should be green one giving your time of purchase


----------



## Radmanhs

hey guys, i want to do triple monitor gaming and i hear these are good and i hope you can point me in the right direction. I want to do 3 x 1 monitor gaming with 1440 27" - 30" ips monitors with and auxiliary monitor on the side on an independently movable stand. what would you guys recommend that wont 'break the bank' too bad?

Thanks


----------



## davidh304

I was looking at getting a spare power brick. I searched the thread and the OP shows a transformer and a replacement brick. The replacement power brick is no longer being sold.

Am I better off with which one of the following:

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=230838320475&index=0&nav=WATCHING&nid=94358765932

Or

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=251218550071&index=2&nav=SEARCH&nid=47563625442

Thanks!

edit: Has anyone used an aftermarket stand to prevent the monitor from wobbling?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> hey guys, i want to do triple monitor gaming and i hear these are good and i hope you can point me in the right direction. I want to do 3 x 1 monitor gaming with 1440 27" - 30" ips monitors with and auxiliary monitor on the side on an independently movable stand. what would you guys recommend that wont 'break the bank' too bad?
> 
> Thanks


Yopur best bet is my personal recommendation as is everyone elses. Grab them from AccessoriesWhoel(AW).
You have 2 options to be honest get a PP model of the 27Q LED or non PP. You also have the choice of LED-P or Non -P. The P stands for pivot so you get the option to rotate the monitor in Portrait or Landscape.

I recommend these 2 ebay links. One is PP and other is Non PP
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c

Everyone has has a high success rate in just purchasing the NON PP version and it haveing absoluty no faults what so ever. So it is your choice if you want ease of mind or take a chance.
Both are cheap considering the panel and quality you get if you were going to get an actual applae cinema display which retails at 1k.

Also tell them Cloudz00x sent ya and they will help you out even more, well they help you out regardless but I have a good relationship with them.

Enjoy the new monitors when they do arrive, i'm more then certain your be happy with them.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> I was looking at getting a spare power brick. I searched the thread and the OP shows a transformer and a replacement brick. The replacement power brick is no longer being sold.
> 
> Am I better off with which one of the following:
> 
> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=230838320475&index=0&nav=WATCHING&nid=94358765932
> 
> Or
> 
> http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=251218550071&index=2&nav=SEARCH&nid=47563625442
> 
> Thanks!


Your first link is the correct one. The 2nd one is an actual converter not a power brick.
---> http://www.ebay.com/itm/230838320475


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> open it up and look, and use search function for this thread. it is all covered. it should be green one giving your time of purchase


Seems like me and Descadent are consultants over here , that or we just want more posts lol =p
Yea open it up and check if it's green. Necessarily you shouldn't hjave to open it up. You can see through the grills in the back and check the pcb color, unless your color blind lol j/k =p
With the new restock of crossover's I would assume most of them are green pcb's unless they had a few old stock then you may have gotten the blue one. Regardless check it and email Aw to help you out with the replacement of the blue.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> hey guys, i want to do triple monitor gaming and i hear these are good and i hope you can point me in the right direction. I want to do 3 x 1 monitor gaming with 1440 27" - 30" ips monitors with and auxiliary monitor on the side on an independently movable stand. what would you guys recommend that wont 'break the bank' too bad?
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Yopur best bet is my personal recommendation as is everyone elses. Grab them from AccessoriesWhoel(AW).
> You have 2 options to be honest get a PP model of the 27Q LED or non PP. You also have the choice of LED-P or Non -P. The P stands for pivot so you get the option to rotate the monitor in Portrait or Landscape.
> 
> I recommend these 2 ebay links. One is PP and other is Non PP
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c
> 
> Everyone has has a high success rate in just purchasing the NON PP version and it haveing absoluty no faults what so ever. So it is your choice if you want ease of mind or take a chance.
> Both are cheap considering the panel and quality you get if you were going to get an actual applae cinema display which retails at 1k.
> 
> Also tell them Cloudz00x sent ya and they will help you out even more, well they help you out regardless but I have a good relationship with them.
> 
> Enjoy the new monitors when they do arrive, i'm more then certain your be happy with them.


what cloud said.


----------



## iPodge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tibag*
> 
> Thanks for your answer. I know AW seems to be the best way to order those, I'm used to lurk that topic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look forward to your feedback.


So I have just gotten hold of the panel and set it all up. Not a single dead pixel! Display looks incredible, so crisp! It took 5 days all in from order to it being on my desk which is great. Once again I used AW who is clearly the best seller for you guys to go for! Another happy customer here. Can run further tests if you have any thoughts but i'm happy for my use right now!


----------



## Radmanhs

ok, so they are the same thing, just with different moving stands, becaus one of them says perfect pixel, and not on the other? also for triple screen gaming dont you need a display ort? because all these say is that they have dual link dvi. can you also recommend a triple mount that s adjustable? what is the one descadent has in his pic? also a single fully adjustable one for an auxiliary on the side. and im not sure what the 680 titan will have as display options but hdmi only runs 1080p, right?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, so they are the same thing, just with different moving stands, becaus one of them says perfect pixel, and not on the other? also for triple screen gaming dont you need a display ort? because all these say is that they have dual link dvi. can you also recommend a triple mount that s adjustable? what is the one descadent has in his pic? also a single fully adjustable one for an auxiliary on the side. and im not sure what the 680 titan will have as display options but hdmi only runs 1080p, right?


what is an display ort? triple mounts and these monitors being 27" are out there, but they don't really pull side monitors in enough. I have led-p's. rest of your questions run together and kinda confusing

but just use all the dvi ports on both cards for nvidia 6 series, and it isn't a 680 titan... we don't really know what it is officially but it isn't a 6 series card.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> what is an display ort? triple mounts and these monitors being 27" are out there, but they don't really pull side monitors in enough. I have led-p's. rest of your questions run together and kinda confusing
> 
> but just use all the dvi ports on both cards for nvidia 6 series, and it isn't a 680 titan... we don't really know what it is officially but it isn't a 6 series card.


display port, and i just hear titan... whatever its going to be called... that card

ill make them easier to understand in a later post, at school hand have to go hahaha, end of lunch


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> what is an display ort? triple mounts and these monitors being 27" are out there, but they don't really pull side monitors in enough. I have led-p's. rest of your questions run together and kinda confusing
> 
> but just use all the dvi ports on both cards for nvidia 6 series, and it isn't a 680 titan... we don't really know what it is officially but it isn't a 6 series card.


ok...so what is the difference between the 2 monitors you showed me? the only difference i can find is that one of them says 'perfect pixel' in it.

i meant by display ort 'display port', dont you have to use the display port for a triple monitor setup? and if i wanted a separate auxiliary monitor on the side for things like temp readers i would have to use hdmi, which only goes to to 1-80p, not 1440p, right?

from what you said about the triple mounts major flaw, can you suggest a single desk clamp monitor stand, so i could put all of them next to eachother and then i can put them where i want


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok...so what is the difference between the 2 monitors you showed me? the only difference i can find is that one of them says 'perfect pixel' in it.
> 
> i meant by display ort 'display port', dont you have to use the display port for a triple monitor setup? and if i wanted a separate auxiliary monitor on the side for things like temp readers i would have to use hdmi, which only goes to to 1-80p, not 1440p, right?
> 
> from what you said about the triple mounts major flaw, can you suggest a single desk clamp monitor stand, so i could put all of them next to eachother and then i can put them where i want


not with nvidia. you use both dvi ports on 1 card and dvi port on 2nd card. the 4th monitor can run hdmi from 1st card as aux. with amd you have to use display port.

you can't game on 1 card anyways at 7680x1440. you have to have 2 cards to power it. so just all dl-dvi to both cards. unless you don't want to game then yes you need a dp to dl-dvi ACTIVE adapter for 3rd monitor. far as mounts and clamps, no clue never looked into them because the pivot stands on led-p is good enough for me.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok...so what is the difference between the 2 monitors you showed me? the only difference i can find is that one of them says 'perfect pixel' in it.
> 
> i meant by display ort 'display port', dont you have to use the display port for a triple monitor setup? and if i wanted a separate auxiliary monitor on the side for things like temp readers i would have to use hdmi, which only goes to to 1-80p, not 1440p, right?
> 
> from what you said about the triple mounts major flaw, can you suggest a single desk clamp monitor stand, so i could put all of them next to eachother and then i can put them where i want


Pixel perfect is a guarantee that whe you get the monitor there are no Dead/Stuck pixels.
The other does not come with this guarantee hence why there may be a chance you get a monitor that has some dead/stuck pixels in accordance to the policy of AW. Read the ebay listing for the policy.

For ATI users you need to plug in all 3 monitors to 1 card even if your running crossfire.
Nvidia users need to plug in all monitors if your using 1 or 2 cards.
For 3 cards each gpu gets 1 monitor plugged into each.
4 way SLI you plug 1 monitor into the 1st and second cards then the last card gets the 3rd monitor.

As for the triple monitor mount, they have some out there that say they can handle 27inch but the thing is that's monitors with very thin bezels. The CrossOver's do not have thin bezels so they don't fit.

These might be what your looking for:
http://www.siig.com/av-products/wall-mounts/desk-mounts/articulating-monitor-desk-mount-13-to-27.html
http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/K1D100
http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/K2C100


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Pixel perfect is a guarantee that whe you get the monitor there are no Dead/Stuck pixels.
> The other does not come with this guarantee hence why there may be a chance you get a monitor that has some dead/stuck pixels in accordance to the policy of AW. Read the ebay listing for the policy.
> 
> For ATI users you need to plug in all 3 monitors to 1 card even if your running crossfire.
> Nvidia users need to plug in all monitors if your using 1 or 2 cards.
> For 3 cards each gpu gets 1 monitor plugged into each.
> 4 way SLI you plug 1 monitor into the 1st and second cards then the last card gets the 3rd monitor.
> 
> As for the triple monitor mount, they have some out there that say they can handle 27inch but the thing is that's monitors with very thin bezels. The CrossOver's do not have thin bezels so they don't fit.
> 
> These might be what your looking for:
> http://www.siig.com/av-products/wall-mounts/desk-mounts/articulating-monitor-desk-mount-13-to-27.html
> http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/K1D100
> http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/K2C100


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> not with nvidia. you use both dvi ports on 1 card and dvi port on 2nd card. the 4th monitor can run hdmi from 1st card as aux. with amd you have to use display port.
> 
> you can't game on 1 card anyways at 7680x1440. you have to have 2 cards to power it. so just all dl-dvi to both cards. unless you don't want to game then yes you need a dp to dl-dvi ACTIVE adapter for 3rd monitor. far as mounts and clamps, no clue never looked into them because the pivot stands on led-p is good enough for me.


ok, now its all starting to make sense now. i thought before for nvidia you had to use 1 card for all connections, then another 1 - 3 for power, now i realize you set it up depending on number of gpu's and monitors

http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/K1D100

this one seems to be the most like what i want, so then i can position each monitor how i want it

also what do you thing about this one?
http://www.chiefmfg.com/Series/KCB

for the monitors you are paying an extra $100 for perfect pixel?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> for the monitors you are paying an extra $100 for perfect pixel?


no as the last 478 pages will tell you, some still opt to do it. but AW's policy and fact they only sell A panels unlike other sellers is good enough for me not to waste money on pixel perfect. but thats me


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> no as the last 478 pages will tell you, some still opt to do it. but AW's policy and fact they only sell A panels unlike other sellers is good enough for me not to waste money on pixel perfect. but thats me


alright, sounds good to me


----------



## Rayhan2k

thanks for your reply mate

ill open it up but my question wasnt that i couldnt see the colour of the pcb board, my question is that there are 2 pcb boards from what i can see through the grill, the one in the middle which is blue and the one to the left of it which is green, im sure if i open up the monitor there may or will be more.

My question was whereabouts in the back of the monitor is this troublesome green or blue pcb located, top, middle bottom left right?

So that i know its the right one im looking at

Cheers


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayhan2k*
> 
> thanks for your reply mate
> 
> ill open it up but my question wasnt that i couldnt see the colour of the pcb board, my question is that there are 2 pcb boards from what i can see through the grill, the one in the middle which is blue and the one to the left of it which is green, im sure if i open up the monitor there may or will be more.
> 
> My question was whereabouts in the back of the monitor is this troublesome green or blue pcb located, top, middle bottom left right?
> 
> So that i know its the right one im looking at
> 
> Cheers


the teardown pics are in this thread, just search pcb using the search this thread button at the top and you will see all you need to know.


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleepjay*
> 
> I just received a Crossover 27QD from AW and hooked it up to my Mac Mini via a Monoprice mini display port to active dual link dvi.\
> 
> The monitor LED turns blue, the screen comes up, but after a few seconds, the display turns off and the LED turns back red. I've swapped out the DVI cables, changed USB ports, but nothing will hold this monitor on. Do I have a bad monitor or do I have another issue. Is it possible the power supply is bad? Should I open this thing up to verify the connections are hooked up solid?
> 
> TIA, I don't really want to send this thing back to Korea


Ok, Update.... I swapped the DVI cable around and the monitor started to work, but with a high pitch whine. It worked for a little while and I had no issues, but I left it alone and came back to it, and now it is no longer working.

Is this a defective monitor or is there any kind of troubleshooting I can do.


----------



## cooler2442

Anyone have a white crossover they wanna post more pics of?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleepjay*
> 
> Ok, Update.... I swapped the DVI cable around and the monitor started to work, but with a high pitch whine. It worked for a little while and I had no issues, but I left it alone and came back to it, and now it is no longer working.
> 
> Is this a defective monitor or is there any kind of troubleshooting I can do.


Hmm, the other thing you need to troubleshoot is the actual mini dp to DVi D.

After doing a quick search, which you should have done the same. Old or incompatible adapters do not work with mac mini or mac books when connecting to this monitor monitor or other monitors.
I'd recommend you buying either these two and getting your money back from the monoprice purchase. I recommend Monoprice for buying new Cables and other wiring but don't skimp on peripherals lol.
Accell is a good company to buy the adapters from which has been linked many times throughout this thread and are known to work.

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-003J-UltraAV-miniDisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B0030XMREG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1360063285&sr=1-2&keywords=accell+dvi-d
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter

Other suggestions:
Check your connections inside the monitor. If you got a blue pcb make sure it didn;t burn out but I;d hope you have the green one.
Final Note is some just have had no luck getting the crossover to work on Mini, mac books and what not. You should have bought the multi input that you can do a direct dp to dp or hdmi connection tro make life simple.


----------



## HotFieryTech

OK, So my 2720MDP has been running strong for the past month and a half, but I just noticed that every so often it will flicker and once the screen went dead for two seconds and came back. I'm worried that it might die. Do you think I should disassemble it and see if there is a loose cable?


----------



## minchu0647

HI EVERYONE IM NEW HERE!
I ordered one Crossover 27QD Blade on Sunday and it just arrived!! only took 1.5 days to deliver from Korea and 4 hours to pass the custom! Havent opened the box but I AM EXCITING! OH YAAAAAAAAA 2 DAYS INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING ***OMGBBQ!!!


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minchu0647*
> 
> HI EVERYONE IM NEW HERE!
> I ordered one Crossover 27QD Blade on Sunday and it just arrived!! only took 2 days to ship from Korea and 4 hours to pass the custom! Havent opened the box but I AM EXCITING! OH YAAAAAAAAA


----------



## hrogar

Hello everyone. Just got my Crossover 27q, monitor is working, but there is a blue dot in the middle(4mm wide) looks like. Very noticable and anoying on black background

are they stuck pixels ? is that fault subject for RMA ?
got it of BCC
thanks


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrogar*
> 
> Hello everyone. Just got my Crossover 27q, monitor is working, but there is a blue dot in the middle(4mm wide) looks like
> 
> are they stuck pixels ? is that fault subject for RMA ?
> thanks






I remember reading a post a little while ago where that went away over the course of a couple of days. Im not 100% on that but I would inform the seller then wait a couple of days to see if it gets smaller.


----------



## minchu0647

hmm whys people getting 27Q not 27QD? 27Q actually costs more and the stand doesn't seem to come off easily, or does it? the VESA mount holes are located on the stand am I right?
By looking at the pictures, 27QD has VESA holes on the back of case. Plus it has speakers.... (but this is not the reason I got 27QD)
27Q's $389.99 vs 27QD's $359.99 from AW.
Can someone enlighten me?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minchu0647*
> 
> hmm whys people getting 27Q not 27QD? 27Q actually costs more and the stand doesn't seem to come off easily, or does it? the VESA mount holes are located on the stand am I right?
> By looking at the pictures, 27QD has VESA holes on the back of case. Plus it has speakers.... (but this is not the reason I got 27QD)
> 27Q's $389.99 vs 27QD's $359.99 from AW.
> Can someone enlighten me?


27QD uses the exact same stand as the 27Q so don't let the pictures fool you. The VESA Holes are located on the housing for all crossover models.
The 27Q is bought more due to not having speakers thats really the difference between the 2 models. Buy the 27QD then change out connectors and gut out the speakers then your left with the 27Q with a extra buttons that control volume on the bottom.
So if your looking for an audio solution with the monitor then get the 27QD if not and you have your own home theater system or speakers, the 27Q should be be fine.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrogar*
> 
> Hello everyone. Just got my Crossover 27q, monitor is working, but there is a blue dot in the middle(4mm wide) looks like. Very noticable and anoying on black background
> 
> are they stuck pixels ? is that fault subject for RMA ?
> got it of BCC
> thanks


I remember reading a post a little while ago where that went away over the course of a couple of days. Im not 100% on that but I would inform the seller then wait a couple of days to see if it gets smaller.[/quote]

Some other users have had the same problem go away over time so leave the monitor on for 48hrs+ and see if it does go away itself. If not double check connectors on the inside and send a email to your seller so they can initiate a replacement.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Some other users have had the same problem go away over time so leave the monitor on for 48hrs+ and see if it does go away itself. If not double check connectors on the inside and send a email to your seller so they can initiate a replacement.


You should probably quote the new user who asked the question I was just trying to provide him with some help.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> You should probably quote the new user who asked the question I was just trying to provide him with some help.


Ah crap thought I did, been a long day o.o


----------



## hrogar

Thx very much for replying. Hope it ll go one day


----------



## minchu0647

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> 27QD uses the exact same stand as the 27Q so don't let the pictures fool you. The VESA Holes are located on the housing for all crossover models.
> The 27Q is bought more due to not having speakers thats really the difference between the 2 models. Buy the 27QD then change out connectors and gut out the speakers then your left with the 27Q with a extra buttons that control volume on the bottom.
> So if your looking for an audio solution with the monitor then get the 27QD if not and you have your own home theater system or speakers, the 27Q should be be fine.


WOAH what connector are you talking about? is it the green/blue PCB board that the first page talks aobut?!

I just dont want to buy something that I have to open up the case and modify. I want something I can use immediately!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minchu0647*
> 
> WOAH what connector are you talking about? is it the green/blue PCB board that the first page talks aobut?!


The speakers need to get power from somewhere so there is a connection for them which has to be removed, then you remove the speakers them self. To tedious in my opinion.
Again just a choice have speakers or don't


----------



## x3Infamous

Alright guys. Im planning on getting a multi input crossover since I want to connect my xbox to it also. Would you guys suggest getting the 2720 or the 2730. There about the same other then a display port I believe?


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> 27QD uses the exact same stand as the 27Q so don't let the pictures fool you. The VESA Holes are located on the housing for all crossover models.
> The 27Q is bought more due to not having speakers thats really the difference between the 2 models. Buy the 27QD then change out connectors and gut out the speakers then your left with the 27Q with a extra buttons that control volume on the bottom.


So you're saying that (a) the ad pictures for the 27QD are wrong, (b) the 27QD in reality does not differ from the 27Q but for the speakers and the volume buttons, (c) notably it does not have the wobbly lean stand you can see on the pictures but the stable wide stand the 27Q is known to have, and (d) the housing on the back is not black and plastic but grey and metal. (»Not having speakers thats really the difference.«) Do you actually own a 27QD or have you seen one in the wild? And could you confirm these four points?







Because your statement contradicts a couple others I've read over the past two weeks regarding the 27QD, which were all based on what you see in the pictures.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> So you're saying that (a) the ad pictures for the 27QD are wrong, (b) the 27QD in reality does not differ from the 27Q but for the speakers and the volume buttons, (c) notably it does not have the wobbly lean stand you can see on the pictures but the stable wide stand the 27Q is known to have, and (d) the housing on the back is not black and plastic but grey and metal. (»Not having speakers thats really the difference.«) Do you actually own a 27QD or have you seen one in the wild? And could you confirm these four points?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because your statement contradicts a couple others I've read over the past two weeks regarding the 27QD, which were all based on what you see in the pictures.


The version I speak of is the 27QD-P which then would be true to my statement. The 27QD uses a different stand. Sorry for the misunderstanding


----------



## Mazino

just orderd Crossover 27q LED-P hope its as you guys said :O

can't wait to get the monitor and test it on mmo :O


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Hmm, the other thing you need to troubleshoot is the actual mini dp to DVi D.
> 
> After doing a quick search, which you should have done the same. Old or incompatible adapters do not work with mac mini or mac books when connecting to this monitor monitor or other monitors.
> I'd recommend you buying either these two and getting your money back from the monoprice purchase. I recommend Monoprice for buying new Cables and other wiring but don't skimp on peripherals lol.
> Accell is a good company to buy the adapters from which has been linked many times throughout this thread and are known to work.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-003J-UltraAV-miniDisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B0030XMREG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1360063285&sr=1-2&keywords=accell+dvi-d
> http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter
> 
> Other suggestions:
> Check your connections inside the monitor. If you got a blue pcb make sure it didn;t burn out but I;d hope you have the green one.
> Final Note is some just have had no luck getting the crossover to work on Mini, mac books and what not. You should have bought the multi input that you can do a direct dp to dp or hdmi connection tro make life simple.


Not sure if you saw in my post where I mentioned that I did have it working, and it was good to go, until I pulled out the cable and plugged it back in. It's like it's real finicky, but I'm not sure what is causing it. Could it be something like loose connections or do you think I have an issue with the actual signal. Do you really think that the monoprice active adapter would be the issue?


----------



## minchu0647

Woot just set up my new crossover 27QD. IPS color does look lots better than my 19 viewsonic TN and 24 LG TN!
but.... one tiny dead pixel on bottom right







very hard to notice though.... sigh...
Notice that some image blurring when objects are moving too fast (ie name on top of character get blurry when charactor moving around).Now I understand why people are so found of 120Hz.


----------



## Tibag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iPodge*
> 
> So I have just gotten hold of the panel and set it all up. Not a single dead pixel! Display looks incredible, so crisp! It took 5 days all in from order to it being on my desk which is great. Once again I used AW who is clearly the best seller for you guys to go for! Another happy customer here. Can run further tests if you have any thoughts but i'm happy for my use right now!


That's great, I am happy for you!









What about the custom and taxes? Did you ask AW any trick about the price by the way?

Thanks


----------



## iPodge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tibag*
> 
> That's great, I am happy for you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about the custom and taxes? Did you ask AW any trick about the price by the way?
> 
> Thanks


Yep cheers all good

I did ask him but don't think he even replied (this was prior to purchase). There was an invoice with the screen for 200USD and no tax what so ever. It got to Stansted spent a day clearing customs and was delivered to me the day after.


----------



## oobble

Guys I got the montior and I love it. The only problem is it is too bright on minimum brightness setting. Does anyone know of a way to decrease the brightness, without decreasing the quality?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> Guys I got the monitor and I love it. The only problem is it is too bright on minimum brightness setting. Does anyone know of a way to decrease the brightness, without decreasing the quality?


Apply color profiles to aid with the brightness yet keeping calibrated colors.
Head over to my review. The color profiles and how to apply them are in it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors
Use the recommended one and let me know if it helps.


----------



## ehpexs

I bought two more crossovers today to complete my eyefinity set-up, as well as two active monoprice displayport adaptors.


----------



## Coreda

Hi everyone, I was considering purchasing one of these Crossover monitors and from reading up on the threads it seems the over-bright minimum brightness setting is the only real con/complaint.

I found a guy who posted a solution to the brightness issue on this very thread, but it appears to have gone unnoticed (see video below for demo). His original post was only about some hardware controls he made, but upon viewing his wiki page he links to an app that appears to do this also just via software.

Can anyone who has one of these monitors check to see if the app he used, softMCCS, worked for you? I believe it's the luminance slider that controls the brightness (it adjusts the actual hardware brightness).


----------



## cooler2442

I want to get a white CrossOver, do you guys recommend this one from Dream Seller?

Accessories doesn't seem to have any in stock. Is he the only one that has A panels while Dream Seller has A-?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-WHITE-27-Monitor-2560X1440-High-resolution-Monitor-QHD-DVI-/221112333966?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337b52768e


----------



## Kentaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coreda*
> 
> Hi everyone, I was considering purchasing one of these Crossover monitors and from reading up on the threads it seems the over-bright minimum brightness setting is the only real con/complaint.
> 
> I found a guy who posted a solution to the brightness issue on this very thread, but it appears to have gone unnoticed (see video below for demo). His original post was only about some hardware controls he made, but upon viewing his wiki page he links to an app that appears to do this also just via software.
> 
> Can anyone who has one of these monitors check to see if the app he used, softMCCS, worked for you? I believe it's the luminance slider that controls the brightness (it adjusts the actual hardware brightness).


I'm interested in this too, I want to grab a CrossOver to use for colour critical work so a luminance of around 120 cd/m2 is what I would want. Monitor looks way too bright on the lowest setting it seems.

Hmm on further reading it seems to me that it's software that controls his hardware mod. Do other Korean monitors have overly bright 'low' settings?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> I want to get a white CrossOver, do you guys recommend this one from Dream Seller?
> 
> Accessories doesn't seem to have any in stock. Is he the only one that has A panels while Dream Seller has A-?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-WHITE-27-Monitor-2560X1440-High-resolution-Monitor-QHD-DVI-/221112333966?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337b52768e


AW is the only one that honors "A" panels. What you can do and what I recommend is to contact AW and ask them if they can pre-order 1 for you. Almost certain they can get a special order going on for you. If not then yea go with DreamSeller.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs*
> 
> I bought two more crossovers today to complete my eyefinity set-up, as well as two active monoprice displayport adaptors.


Very nice welcome to the 3x CrossOVer club. I think im the only one in my club with 6x lol. Send us pictures of the setup when its done!


----------



## cooler2442

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> AW is the only one that honors "A" panels. What you can do and what I recommend is to contact AW and ask them if they can pre-order 1 for you. Almost certain they can get a special order going on for you. If not then yea go with DreamSeller.


This is what AW just told me

"
Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.

27Q LED white monitor is discontinued model due to shortage of IPS panel.
We are afraid that we may not have 27Q LED white monitor in stock any soon."

"I'm not sure if the other seller have it or not.
If they have it, it would be very old stock.
"

I just want a white one cause my case is white lol.


----------



## Descadent

if it means anything. the back of the crossover is white.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> This is what AW just told me
> 
> "
> Thank you for your interest on Accessorieswhole.
> 
> 27Q LED white monitor is discontinued model due to shortage of IPS panel.
> We are afraid that we may not have 27Q LED white monitor in stock any soon."
> 
> "I'm not sure if the other seller have it or not.
> If they have it, it would be very old stock.
> "
> 
> I just want a white one cause my case is white lol.


Ah damn too bad. AW is right though. There have been many revisions to this monitor. The latest monitors AW is selling are really top of the line. The All White versions came out when this monitor first came out to us. So you will be dealing with a legacy version. If you want to get it you can still buy it from Dream Seller and then just upgrade cables and make sure you get the green pcb so your safe in the future.
But like I said most internals including the middle pcb, the monitor pcb, led pcb and the power/brightness button pcb have all gone through revisions in accordance to the users complaints and faulty products.
My personal recommendation, grab the 27Q LED from AW and if it's really important to match the PC, remove the casing and give front shell a good paint job. This will also void any warranty or replacement capability with AW though.


----------



## cooler2442

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Ah damn too bad. AW is right though. There have been many revisions to this monitor. The latest monitors AW is selling are really top of the line. The All White versions came out when this monitor first came out to us. So you will be dealing with a legacy version. If you want to get it you can still buy it from Dream Seller and then just upgrade cables and make sure you get the green pcb so your safe in the future.
> But like I said most internals including the middle pcb, the monitor pcb, led pcb and the power/brightness button pcb have all gone through revisions in accordance to the users complaints and faulty products.
> My personal recommendation, grab the 27Q LED from AW and if it's really important to match the PC, remove the casing and give front shell a good paint job. This will also void any warranty or replacement capability with AW though.


Yeah I wouldn't want an old model. Seems like all the 27Q LED's from AW are $400 now. At that price point and not really getting anything special such as a white color, wouldn't it be better to just get the Monoprice monitor for $380? I know the Crossover seems to have a better stand / look better but then Monoprice would provide an actual 1 year warranty correct?


----------



## Descadent

crossover from AW over anything imo. Also remember crossover is the only one with metal casing. all others aren't


----------



## Descadent

Decided to put my monitors in portrait today. Will make video soon as I figure out dxtory for this res to record with out chugging at such high res.

Crysis 3 @ 4230x2560


----------



## Agoriaz

Definitely droolworthy screens, Desc! I can't wait for mine to actually show up. It's been "Underways" from GUANGZHOU, China for 72 hours according to the Track and Trace provided.


----------



## oobble

I downloaded the software and slid the luminance slider up and down. It did nothing. I believe it's because I don't have DDC/CI support, and the guy in the video does.


----------



## freitz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Decided to put my monitors in portrait today. Will make video soon as I figure out dxtory for this res to record with out chugging at such high res.
> 
> Crysis 3 @ 4230x2560






Looks great. I like them better in port. to be honest. Whats your fps with your 670's?

On a single 1440p with a 680 only OC to 1300 i was only getting ~30.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Decided to put my monitors in portrait today. Will make video soon as I figure out dxtory for this res to record with out chugging at such high res.


Had to remove the images off the quote or it would've been stretched ridiculously.
Awesome look. When I think of portrait I usually think of 5 screens. The 3 mid as the main and then the outside monitors for the peripheral view. Personally I like landscape, but portrait was a consideration on my end as well. I checked out your screenshot's over at steam, very nice as well.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> 
> Looks great. I like them better in port. to be honest. Whats your fps with your 670's?
> 
> On a single 1440p with a 680 only OC to 1300 i was only getting ~30.


38-48

make sure you are on 313.96. your fps is way to low for that card


----------



## Radmanhs

Descadent, do you like it more in portrat or landscape? i think its kinda cool having it like, go around you, but some people like it like that


----------



## Descadent

well if nvidia could do 5 in portrait would be better. but I like how it looks but it's really no different because it's still 16x9 aspect ratio in portrait with only 3 monitors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> When I think of portrait I usually think of 5 screens. The 3 mid as the main and then the outside monitors for the peripheral view. Personally I like landscape, but portrait was a consideration on my end as well.


yeah. I feel like I could get the same satisfaction if I set 2 ft away from my 55" tv or just played on my 100" screen since you don't really see anymore like in landscape. but such high pixel pitch in portrait sure makes it pretty, but without 5 monitors no real benefit I guess.


----------



## Descadent

Crysis 3 @ 4320x2560 Portrait with crossovers.

don't forget 1080p!


----------



## Coreda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobble*
> 
> I downloaded the software and slid the luminance slider up and down. It did nothing. I believe it's because I don't have DDC/CI support, and the guy in the video does.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kentaro*
> 
> Hmm on further reading it seems to me that it's software that controls his hardware mod. Do other Korean monitors have overly bright 'low' settings?


I think you may be right about these monitors lacking DDC/CI support natively, actually







.

From some Googling it seems like it may be possible to adjust the brightness by editing the monitor's .INF driver configuration file - but I'm not sure, it could be monitor/driver specific.

If anyone else knows of a way to adjust the minimum brightness of these monitors manually please post your solution!







Thanks!


----------



## Silent8Strike

I've been following these Korean monitors for a while and finally decided to stop waiting and buy one. I liked what I heard about the build quality of the Crossover, so I ordered a 27Q from AccessoriesWhole. I ordered my monitor late Monday night, and it arrived at my door by 12:00 Thursday!

I'm extremely happy with the monitor, especially replacing my old LG 24" TN panel. Colors are top notch, everything looks sharper,and blacks are much deeper. I tried hard to find any dead pixels, and I am 99% sure that I have none at all. In fact the only issue I can find is minor backlight bleed in the bottom corners, only visible on black screens. Considering this monitor is $500 less than comparable monitors from Dell and other brands, this is more than acceptable. If I wasn't on a college budget I would order another two before the prices rise again!


----------



## Kentaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coreda*
> 
> I think you may be right about these monitors lacking DDC/CI support natively, actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> From some Googling it seems like it may be possible to adjust the brightness by editing the monitor's .INF driver configuration file - but I'm not sure, it could be monitor/driver specific.
> 
> If anyone else knows of a way to adjust the minimum brightness of these monitors manually please post your solution!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Would be nice if you could simply edit an INF file! Maybe we can purchase a DDC from that guy









Default luminance is 349cd/m2! http://www.playwares.com/xe/19660714


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Hmm, the other thing you need to troubleshoot is the actual mini dp to DVi D.
> 
> After doing a quick search, which you should have done the same. Old or incompatible adapters do not work with mac mini or mac books when connecting to this monitor monitor or other monitors.
> I'd recommend you buying either these two and getting your money back from the monoprice purchase. I recommend Monoprice for buying new Cables and other wiring but don't skimp on peripherals lol.
> Accell is a good company to buy the adapters from which has been linked many times throughout this thread and are known to work.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-003J-UltraAV-miniDisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B0030XMREG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1360063285&sr=1-2&keywords=accell+dvi-d
> http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter
> 
> Other suggestions:
> Check your connections inside the monitor. If you got a blue pcb make sure it didn;t burn out but I;d hope you have the green one.
> Final Note is some just have had no luck getting the crossover to work on Mini, mac books and what not. You should have bought the multi input that you can do a direct dp to dp or hdmi connection tro make life simple.


Ok, I bought the Accell, and it seems like it works a little better. It tries to turn on more often, but it only lasts a second or so and then turns off. Then it shuts off for about 10 seconds, and then tries again. It is obviously better than the monoprice, but is it not good enough, or is it possible that I should try a new DVI cable (monoprice dual link).

Is this (Kanex iAdapt C30) a better brand? http://www.amazon.com/Kanex-MDPC30-DisplayPort-Adapter-Display/dp/B0045I85GY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1360376377&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+displayport+to+dual+link+dvi

I've taken apart the monitor and made sure that the connections are snug (green pcb). Also, when it is 'on', there is a small high pitch whine coming from the monitor. Is this a dud or do I need to try something else?


----------



## rattlerskin

Just hooked up and tested my 27Q that I bought from AccessoriesWhole. I'm very pleased as I have zero dead/stuck/bright pixels and the only apparent backlight bleed is in the lower left corner and its not apparent unless on a completely black screen and the room lighting is almost zero. Glad I made the purchase, it looks a lot better than my Acer hn274bmiid 120hz 1080p monitor it replaced.


----------



## silvinho21

Hi guys, new to the forum here, I'm looking to get a crossover and have a couple of questions for those who already own one.

1) Who should I buy it from?
2) Is the multiport version have slower ms than the single dvi versions?
3) Is it worth to spend the extra cash to get the perfect pixel version?
4) Instead of getting perfect pixel should I get a 3 year warranty with squaretrade?

here is the list of the ones I'm considering getting
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d
WITH SQUARETRADE

OR

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/130785741361?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e73700a31


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Picked up a CrossOver 27Q LED a few days ago, waiting for it to get delivered....


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Hi guys, new to the forum here, I'm looking to get a crossover and have a couple of questions for those who already own one.
> 
> 1) Who should I buy it from?
> 2) Is the multiport version have slower ms than the single dvi versions?
> 3) Is it worth to spend the extra cash to get the perfect pixel version?
> 4) Instead of getting perfect pixel should I get a 3 year warranty with squaretrade?
> 
> here is the list of the ones I'm considering getting
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d
> WITH SQUARETRADE
> 
> OR
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/130785741361?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e73700a31


All these have been answered multiple times in the main post and throughout the forum. Searching and doing research doesnt hurt lol
Read the main OP and/or read my review http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors
Really answers everything in regards to 'ALL" the monitors via CrossOVer


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Hi guys, new to the forum here, I'm looking to get a crossover and have a couple of questions for those who already own one.
> 
> 1) Who should I buy it from?
> 2) Is the multiport version have slower ms than the single dvi versions?
> 3) Is it worth to spend the extra cash to get the perfect pixel version?
> 4) Instead of getting perfect pixel should I get a 3 year warranty with squaretrade?
> 
> here is the list of the ones I'm considering getting
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d
> WITH SQUARETRADE
> 
> OR
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2730MD-P-LED-Pivot-27-2560x1440-HDMI1-4-IPS-Overclockable-Monitor-/130785741361?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e73700a31


as cloud said yes. please us the search this thread button please.

EVERYTHING you need to know newcomers is already in this thread, and yes I mean EVERYTHING.


----------



## silvinho21

Thanks for the links, I'm greatfull!!!
I just can't make a decision whether I should do perfect pixel from AW since they are the only ones who truly guarantee it will have zero dead or stuck pixels or should I just get a non perfect pixel one and add squaretrade warranty, what is the life expectancy of these monitors?


----------



## silvinho21

oh and hey guys if I get a multiple input monitor is it gonna have more ghosting and lag and a single dvi monitor


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Thanks for the links, I'm greatfull!!!
> I just can't make a decision whether I should do perfect pixel from AW since they are the only ones who truly guarantee it will have zero dead or stuck pixels or should I just get a non perfect pixel one and add squaretrade warranty, what is the life expectancy of these monitors?


We have all heard different responses from Square trade. They say they would cover it, then they change it and say they don't I personally don;t have Square Trade. The monitor last's like any other monitor as long as it's properly taken care of. PP just gives you ease of mind, the other has a very high chance of it being perfect right out of the box. I like to gamble when it comes to casino's but for tech I usually pay the extra for the ease of mind. Others would disagree but it just comes down to personal preference.


----------



## silvinho21

Cloud does the 2730md model have more lag input then a regular 27q with only a dvi input, I would just like the multiple inputs to connect other devices like labtops and gaming consoles


----------



## ehpexs

Still waiting on my other two to be shipped, should be here on Wednesday, and then the monoprice cables are going to hopefully be here next week.

That aside just wondering, does anyone here run three of these on iRacing? If so how do they do with one 7950?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Cloud does the 2730md model have more lag input then a regular 27q with only a dvi input, I would just like the multiple inputs to connect other devices like labtops and gaming consoles


yes as we have said in this thread 140,000 times lol. but it's NOT a big deal


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Cloud does the 2730md model have more lag input then a regular 27q with only a dvi input, I would just like the multiple inputs to connect other devices like labtops and gaming consoles


Yea with anything it's gonna have a higher (MS). For those who purchased the 27Q, we are going to use it only on one device. With it being one input there's no other processing going on since there's no other inputs, DP, HDMI etc. Now if your gonna use it for laptops, PC, consoles and more then of course get the multi input versions. The lag is barely noticeable but we as a gaming community always strive for perfection


----------



## Cloudz00x

For all my CrossOver owners. I have some very good news for you. If you ever wanted to have your CrossOVer hit over 60hz and reach 90+ and have the benefits of a High HZ and 2560x1440p like the catleaps were able to. You are in luck.
Scribby over at Overlord Computers has been working diligently and has finally been able to get the Kit's. Thats right the OC PCB is now available. The Price is high which may scare most people, shoot it even scares me. I may or may not "try it" but I wanted to let everyone know and see if anyone else
takes the plunge and can elaborate more on the process/efficiency/and effectiveness to the board. It seems it may require a little modding for the CrossOVers in comparison to the Catleaps/Shimians but it may be worth it. Time will tell.

Links:
http://overlordforum.com/forum/61-the-oc-pcbs/
http://overlordforum.com/forum/73-overlord-pcbs/
http://www.overlordcomputer.com/Overlord_Computer_Overclock_PCB_Set_p/ovrld_pcb.htm


----------



## Descadent

yeah it's to high for me. especially when I need 3 and have perfectly good working monitors although would try it if it was cheaper most likely. Considering I only got about 350 in each monitor itself. that pcb way to high for just a pcb.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> yeah it's to high for me. especially when I need 3 and have perfectly good working monitors although would try it if it was cheaper most likely. Considering I only got about 350 in each monitor itself. that pcb way to high for just a pcb.


Yea I was completely thrown back by the price but you know just as I do, someone here is gonna get it and do the modding to the CrosOver and get it working. I already though of how to get it in there, it's just the fact of executing it. I never start anything though I wait to see how others do it first lol.
Can also look at the bright side! "IF" our pcbs ever went bad, we can pay to get replacements aslong as the panel still functions.

Just to add -
Lets be frank about the price set for this. It's really set due to demand. This has been wanted ever since 120hz.net and the start of these Korean Monitor alternatives.
Now if we break down price.
These monitors originally valued around 300-350 when it first hit the market.
Apple Sold there version with the exact same panel at 1k.
That's about 3x inflation.
Actual cost to produce this is prob 100-150.
Do the math regardless if it's Apple or Our sellers they still see a good revenue in comparison to actual production.
What we as the consumers are left with are only two options pay out to Apple and other companies at 1k+ or go with our Korean alternatives for half the price.

Now with that being said Scribby is literally trying to sell this PCB kit without the panel/housing/Stand at the same price when the monitor first came out.
That PCB Kit if manufactured would cost no less then 50-100 if anything and I'm trying to be generous.

Just astounds me the price set but eh it's his show.


----------



## chill1217

wow that price is absurd, but i still think they will sell out. so smart business decision on their end i guess. 27" ips + 120hz is just the holy grail


----------



## cooler2442

Is there any difference between the new "27Q Blade" and say the next cheapest one which is labeled as "27Q LED'?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> Is there any difference between the new "27Q Blade" and say the next cheapest one which is labeled as "27Q LED'?


Read the main OP.....
One has speakers the other one doesn't.


----------



## kamran224

I'm planning on getting two 27q mointors. I am very confused about this whole dual link single link dvi-d thing.

If i buy this 7870: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150606

Will I be able to run two 27q simultaneously?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamran224*
> 
> I'm planning on getting two 27q mointors. I am very confused about this whole dual link single link dvi-d thing.
> 
> If i buy this 7870: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150606
> 
> Will I be able to run two 27q simultaneously?


no from description...
Quote:


> 2 x DVI (1 Single Link, 1 Dual Link)


monitors are dual link only...

you need dl-dvi-d or dl-dvi-i. everything you need to know about dl-dvi is in this thread


----------



## KaRLiToS

It will work if he buys a miniDP to DVI adapter (USB Powered)

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8


Spoiler: Picture of Adapter!







the XFX 7870 DD has *two* mini Display ports duh. (On the bottom left of the picture below)

*XFX Double D FX-787A-CDBC*


----------



## kamran224

Thanks. Is there any graphics card on the market that can handle two 27q without the need of a pricey adapter?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamran224*
> 
> Thanks. Is there any graphics card on the market that can handle two 27q without the need of a pricey adapter?


I would get

-PNY VCGGTX660TXPB GeForce *GTX 660 Ti 2GB* 279$



*OR* even cheaper

-*Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2 Go* 249$



*OR*

*-Asus HD7870-DC2-2GD5-V2* 259 $


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> It will work if he buys a miniDP to DVI adapter (USB Powered)
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture of Adapter!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the XFX 7870 DD has *two* mini Display ports duh. (On the bottom left of the picture below)
> 
> *XFX Double D FX-787A-CDBC*


he was asking specifically about dvi. but yes dp would work but why spend money on adapter when you can get a card that has two dl-dvis


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> he was asking specifically about dvi. but yes dp would work but why spend money on adapter when you can get a card that has two dl-dvis


You are here to help, why not provide more info instead of keeping people in ignorance.

*@kamran224*: Just look for a card with 2 x DVI Dual Link ports / Refer to my post above for some card suggestion.

(Could be *DVI-I Dual Link* or *DVI-D Dual Link*, as long as it's *Dual Link* and not Single Link)


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamran224*
> 
> Thanks. Is there any graphics card on the market that can handle two 27q without the need of a pricey adapter?


If your buying the 7870, you can plug both 27Q monitors in both DL DVI ports. So you don't need the adapter. Only time you'd need the adapter is if your plugging 3 27Q monitors into 1 7870. Then you'd plg 2 monitors via DVI ports and 1 via DP port with the use of the adapter.
The 7870 your pointing to only has 1 DL DVI port. So you need to find one that has 2 DL DVI ports whether it's D or I.
If you really want that card then you need the adapters or get a 27Q multi port and go via DVI-D and HDMI.
Don't cut corners and get a compatible GPU.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> You are here to help, why not provide more info instead of keeping people in ignorance.
> 
> *@kamran224*: Just look for a card with 2 x DVI Dual Link ports
> 
> (Could be *DVI-I Dual Link* or *DVI-D Dual Link*, as long as it's *Dual Link* and not Single Link)


I provided enough information relative to the card he link and you followed it up...plus if anyone ever hit the search button for this thread like Cloud and I keep saying. We wouldn't have to repeat same information over and over every 5 pages. That goes for saying in general not to that particular person's question.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamran224*
> 
> Thanks. Is there any graphics card on the market that can handle two 27q without the need of a pricey adapter?


any nvidia 6 series cards have dl-dvi-d and dl-dvi-i that will let you connect 2. There are a couple 7870s but alot do have the single link dvi and not two dl dvi... why amd doesn't provide both dl-dvi-d and dl-dvi-i(so you can still use single link monitors since dl-dvi-i supports single link and dual link monitors) on all cards like nvidia. who knows?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamran224*
> 
> Thanks. Is there any graphics card on the market that can handle two 27q without the need of a pricey adapter?


Your AMD choices were shown prior but just in case you might want to try nvidia.
I prefer evga and this seems around your price range in comparison:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130809


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> any nvidia 6 series cards have dl-dvi-d and dl-dvi-i that will let you connect 2. There are a couple 7870s but alot do have the single link dvi and not two dl dvi... *why amd* doesn't provide both dl-dvi-d and dl-dvi-i(so you can still use single link monitors since dl-dvi-i supports single link and dual link monitors) on all cards like nvidia. who knows?


Thats why I hate how you respond to people, you always keep them in ignorance to point them toward Nvidia..... *ALWAYS*. Don't make me quote all your posts from CrossOvers Thread or 1440p Monitors club, you always biasly point people toward Nvidia.

Can you tell me why AMD always has 2 x Display ports while Nvidia mostly has one?

There are a lot of monitors with Display Ports these days.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Thats why I hate how you respond to people, you always keep them in ignorance to point them toward Nvidia..... *ALWAYS*. Don't make me quote all your posts from CrossOvers Thread or 1440p Monitors club, you always biasly point people toward Nvidia.
> 
> Can you tell me why AMD always has 2 x Display ports while Nvidia mostly has one?
> 
> There are a lot of monitors with Display Ports these days.


EXACTLY. and what is up with you tonight? I will always point people towards nvidia because you don't have to waste money on adapters -_- all their cards have the necessary connections for these monitors without needing adapters!

it's not ignorance it's called doing your own research and being a knowledgeable informed consumer

buy all means QUOTE it so they know!

and no there really isn't alot of dp monitors compared to dvi because dp still isn't mainstream in the pc world compared to dvi YET


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> EXACTLY. *and what is up with you tonight?*


Sorry.

I won't quote them because its off topic though, but I will PM you each time from now on when I see it. I notice and yes you always do that because you have Nvidia in your system. And you know just like me that you purposely jump over some informations in order to ...you know what.


----------



## Descadent

get ready to pm alot







then because I am going to recommend it 100% of the time when it comes to multi monitor connections and gaming with crossovers.

you need two cards at least anyways for surround/eyefinity. if someone just wants it for actual computing/work then nvidia is way to go without needing adapter for two monitors unless you find that amd card that has both dl-dvi connections. if they somehow want to game on just 1 card at 7680x1440 then either amd or nvidia (since both would need the adapter regardless with just one card) yes even knowing 1 card would get crushed, but let's say if they just were waiting for 2nd card at that point it wouldn't matter but still would make zero sense to spend money on an adapter in nvidia situation when you would just plug 3rd monitor into 2nd card anyways. amd requires all monitors into card 1....sad panda wasting away connections on 2nd card.

none of us are professional gpu makers anyways. all we can provide are opinions and my opinion is team green. Why? connections, drivers, innovation(project shield). Would I go amd if i didn't need adapters? Probably but I like gimmicks like physx without needing to driver hack to get it to work on amd etc. Life is easier for my setup and nvidia. plug and play with no additional money spent on adapters and still have excellent gaming experience? yes please.

but it's an opinion speaking from experience and that's what we are all here for opinions and experiences.

at the end of the day. I could really care less if you go red or green, but you wouldn't catch me spending extra up to $200 on top of graphics cards for adapters.

all in what you like.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> get ready to pm alot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then because I am going to recommend it 100% of the time when it comes to multi monitor connections and gaming with crossovers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> you need two cards at least anyways for surround/eyefinity. if someone just wants it for actual computing/work then nvidia is way to go without needing adapter for two monitors unless you find that amd card that has both dl-dvi connections. if they somehow want to game on just 1 card at 7680x1440 then either amd or nvidia (since both would need the adapter regardless with just one card) yes even knowing 1 card would get crushed, but let's say if they just were waiting for 2nd card at that point it wouldn't matter but still would make zero sense to spend money on an adapter in nvidia situation when you would just plug 3rd monitor into 2nd card anyways. amd requires all monitors into card 1....sad panda wasting away connections on 2nd card.
> 
> none of us are professional gpu makers anyways. all we can provide are opinions and my opinion is team green. Why? connections, drivers, innovation(project shield). Would I go amd if i didn't need adapters? Probably but I like gimmicks like physx without needing to driver hack to get it to work on amd etc. Life is easier for my setup and nvidia. plug and play with no additional money spent on adapters and still have excellent gaming experience? yes please












I may criticize you a lot over OCN but I like you very much







.


----------



## Descadent




----------



## silvinho21

Has anyone order from Krusdeal on ebay, I want to know if he is reliable , hes got good prices loo

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-PIVOT-27-inch-S-IPS-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-DVI-D-/150990906232?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2327c26378


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Has anyone order from Krusdeal on ebay, I want to know if he is reliable , hes got good prices loo
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-PIVOT-27-inch-S-IPS-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor-DVI-D-/150990906232?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2327c26378


never heard of them


----------



## blairellis

What does the S button and the M button do?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blairellis*
> 
> What does the S button and the M button do?


What S/M button. Have to specify and give us details as to what your talking about.


----------



## blairellis

The two buttons here to the right of the volume buttons. They don't seem to do anything when I press them.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blairellis*
> 
> The two buttons here to the right of the volume buttons. They don't seem to do anything when I press them.


Assuming thats the 2720md or one of the monitor versions that used to have OSD. Now if you purchase that monitor version those were just buttons and housing from design. No actual use for them, just lazy production from manufacturer to not remove it.


----------



## Spartan F8

Just an update. Had the monitor for a few months now and have had no real issues. I did have a few issues getting DOS games to run on it LOL but new games have no problem. and the last post definitely looks like the crossover blade model i have. Got the same buttons for S and M and they do nothing. Man i am tempted to go 3x with these but i am thinking i will need to upgrade GPUs to get good performance. 4320x2560 res just seems like it would be pretty bottlenecked on 1GB of VRAM. I saw a previous post regarding the 1600p 30" monitors not being very good, anyone know why?


----------



## Descadent

Yeah 1gb ram you're gonna have a bad time


----------



## Xibal

Hey does anyone experience a temporary blue streak of pixels when their 27Q screen fades to black? I've had my 27Q for about about 3 months now and every time I start up Dota 2, there is a blue streak of pixels in the start up black screen (screen before the valve on a guy's head appear). It appears for a brief second before disappearing, not sure if it's cause of concern since I do have the green pcb led board.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xibal*
> 
> Hey does anyone experience a temporary blue streak of pixels when their 27Q screen fades to black? I've had my 27Q for about about 3 months now and every time I start up Dota 2, there is a blue streak of pixels in the start up black screen (screen before the valve on a guy's head appear). It appears for a brief second before disappearing, not sure if it's cause of concern since I do have the green pcb led board.


Haven't heard of that but if it loads the game and reverts back to windows when your done and all colors look appropriate, you should be ok


----------



## Xibal

Yeah could be bad code or ati graphics driver, its a random event, I don't always get it. Well at least I can say the crossover has survived the Australian summer.


----------



## Mazino

i got my display today so far its great but i need to install icc profile and i followed the steps but still somehow can't get it work T_T


----------



## Mazino

i try to install but i see no change on it but on my second monitor lol


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mazino*
> 
> i got my display today so far its great but i need to install icc profile and i followed the steps but still somehow can't get it work T_T


Follow the directions and links in my review
http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors


----------



## Mazino

thanks alot, atm i calibrated manually and it looks good, but i'll try to use the icc in ur review


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Can I join? ..... CrossOver 27Q LED-P


----------



## PatrickCrowely

New Monitor won't stay on. Once it says "Starting Windows" Red light comes on & shuts off. I installed drivers for G210 video card, restarted & now it won't get past starting windows


----------



## Spartan F8

There could be a number of reasons for this to happen but if you are able to get the windows boot screen the monitor is working and if it is turning off after the fact it may be a resolution being out of range. These not having internal scalers can be tricky. something you may try is hooking up another monitor as a primary and after you get into windows set it up as the primary at the proper resolution (happens to me when i try and use it on my laptop)

Hope this helps.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> There could be a number of reasons for this to happen but if you are able to get the windows boot screen the monitor is working and if it is turning off after the fact it may be a resolution being out of range. These not having internal scalers can be tricky. something you may try is hooking up another monitor as a primary and after you get into windows set it up as the primary at the proper resolution (happens to me when i try and use it on my laptop)
> 
> Hope this helps.


Okay Thanks, I think I have it figured out. Going to restart & see. If not, will try this method....


----------



## Spartan F8

I would also invite any other crossover owners to try running a blueray movie on this monitor in MPC-HC with Madvr + LAV. Blue-ray looks beautiful as is but if you have the horsepower and setup your player to upconvert 1080p to monitor resolution it is quite spectacular. I have Avatar with frame duplexing, Bi-cubic filtering, a small shader set, and all the post processing i could manage. It looks almost 3D (not using the 3D version) like the screen is five feet deep and the mini actors are performing the movie right there.









It does ramp up my GTX570s in SLI just watching it though.


----------



## rogersjd14

I've had my crossover 27q monitor about 3 months now. It has been awesome! Today I turned it on, and the screen is blank! That is, the blue light is on, and the backlight is on, but no picture! Windows recognizes the monitor when I plug it in as my default desktop, but I can't see anything









Please, any help would be appreciated. It isn't the DVI cable, as I have tested multiple. Could it be the brick? Or the connection between the brick and the monitor? I didn't think this was the issue because the monitor is turning on...


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogersjd14*
> 
> I've had my crossover 27q monitor about 3 months now. It has been awesome! Today I turned it on, and the screen is blank! That is, the blue light is on, and the backlight is on, but no picture! Windows recognizes the monitor when I plug it in as my default desktop, but I can't see anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please, any help would be appreciated. It isn't the DVI cable, as I have tested multiple. Could it be the brick? Or the connection between the brick and the monitor? I didn't think this was the issue because the monitor is turning on...


tried with actual different dl-dvi cables right?

doesn't sound like power issue. who is your seller? Hopefully a good one. Best to contact them.


----------



## rogersjd14

Yes I've tested multiple DVI cables.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogersjd14*
> 
> Yes I've tested multiple DVI cables.


right but DL-DVI right? you aren't clarifying


----------



## virtualmadden

Just for clarification, are the 27Q LED-P still available? I was waiting to grab a second and haven't been keeping up on how the hardware has evolved.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualmadden*
> 
> Just for clarification, are the 27Q LED-P still available? I was waiting to grab a second and haven't been keeping up on how the hardware has evolved.


all over ebay... lol


----------



## rogersjd14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> right but DL-DVI right? you aren't clarifying


Yes. Plus, I tested the cable on another monitor, and it works fine.


----------



## sinisster

okay so just double checking everything before I pull the trigger on a new Crossover 27Q-P..I've read a lot of reviews and it seems the AW is the best place to get it at. Any other recommendations before I purchase this? Did they fix the issue with the faulty PCB? Thanks guys all your posts have convinced me that this monitor is the way to go.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinisster*
> 
> okay so just double checking everything before I pull the trigger on a new Crossover 27Q-P..I've read a lot of reviews and it seems the AW is the best place to get it at. Any other recommendations before I purchase this? Did they fix the issue with the faulty PCB? Thanks guys all your posts have convinced me that this monitor is the way to go.


yes, go buy now!


----------



## yarrh

So I ordered a an LED-P from accessorieswhole yesterday. I am also putting together my first PC within the next week. My question is will I be able to use the monitor to install windows, before I have any graphics drivers installed? Or would I have to set up my system before it can communicate with it?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> So I ordered a an LED-P from accessorieswhole yesterday. I am also putting together my first PC within the next week. My question is will I be able to use the monitor to install windows, before I have any graphics drivers installed? Or would I have to set up my system before it can communicate with it?


drivers are for inside windows.

with that said. it's plug and play.


----------



## yarrh

thanks


----------



## sinisster

I just pulled the trigger on 3 Crossover 27Q LED-P's...Lets hope everything turns out good, I'll post pics once I get everything set up.


----------



## x3Infamous

Just ordered from accessorieswhole and was wondering if you get a tracking number or anything like that?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinisster*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on 3 Crossover 27Q LED-P's...Lets hope everything turns out good, I'll post pics once I get everything set up.


If you got it from the recommended sellers hopefully Aw your in good shape. Post up some pics when you have them all setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3Infamous*
> 
> Just ordered from accessorieswhole and was wondering if you get a tracking number or anything like that?


Yea they give you the tracking number. Usually right after they confirm it's been shipped. So just wait. If it takes longer then that email them for the info.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogersjd14*
> 
> I've had my crossover 27q monitor about 3 months now. It has been awesome! Today I turned it on, and the screen is blank! That is, the blue light is on, and the backlight is on, but no picture! Windows recognizes the monitor when I plug it in as my default desktop, but I can't see anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please, any help would be appreciated. It isn't the DVI cable, as I have tested multiple. Could it be the brick? Or the connection between the brick and the monitor? I didn't think this was the issue because the monitor is turning on...


Troubleshooting tips:
1. Change DVI-D cables
2. Test different DVI-D/I ports on card
3. Replace with aniother Power brick
4. Check internals of monitor to make sure nothing got loose or was lose prior and just finally came out.
5. Check LED PCB and other PCBs to make sure nothing was damage or burned out
6. Contact seller with pictures/video of the situation.

There gonna tell you to do ther above so why not do it now and if the problem persist after you can save the hassle and hopefully start a replacement order.
GoodLuck!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatrickCrowely*
> 
> Can I join? ..... CrossOver 27Q LED-P


HAha Nice job bro! Get that monitor up and running. Enjoy!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualmadden*
> 
> Just for clarification, are the 27Q LED-P still available? I was waiting to grab a second and haven't been keeping up on how the hardware has evolved.


The old stock is all gone but the new stock is just the newest revisions of the 27Q's. So all problems have been address and honestly the stock from AW with the replacements I received these things look as if there A+ panels not just A.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Anyone using a DVI-D to HDMI cable or adapter with the Q270 LED-P? I'm trying to use the HDMI from my graphics card to get higher resolutions for downsampling, the included adapter that came with my 7970 doesn't work.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Anyone using a DVI-D to HDMI cable or adapter with the Q270 LED-P? I'm trying to use the HDMI from my graphics card to get higher resolutions for downsampling, the included adapter that came with my 7970 doesn't work.


You're going from HDMI -> DL-DVI?

If so... this won't work.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Why not?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Anyone using a DVI-D to HDMI cable or adapter with the Q270 LED-P? I'm trying to use the HDMI from my graphics card to get higher resolutions for downsampling, the included adapter that came with my 7970 doesn't work.


either dl-dvi or dp to dl-dvi active adapter is your only choice. hdmi to dvi adapters don't work. this is a 2560x1440 monitor with high bandwidth requirements. That's why it's dl-dvi on 27q which has no scaler like multi input version.

more indepth conversation about hdmi and this monitor already in the thread. just search the thread using button above/below


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Why not?


What kind of video card?

Anyway, HDMI to DVI max resolution is 1200p


----------



## Spongeworthy

I guess that answers it, I'm using a 7970, HDMI 1.4A supports up to 4k, is it just a limitation of the cables/adapter?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> I guess that answers it, *I'm using a 7970*, HDMI 1.4A supports up to 4k, is it just a limitation of the cables*/adapter*?


Just use DVI to DVI ???









Quote:


> DVI and HDMI compatibility
> 
> HDMI is a newer digital audio/video interface developed and promoted by the consumer electronics industry. DVI and HDMI have the same electrical specifications for their TMDS and VESA/DDC links. However, HDMI and DVI differ in several key ways.
> HDMI lacks VGA compatibility. The necessary analog signals are absent from the HDMI connector.
> DVI is limited to the RGB color space. HDMI supports RGB, but also supports YCbCr 4:4:4 and YCbCr 4:2:2. These spaces are widely used outside of computer graphics.
> HDMI supports the transport of packets, needed for digital audio, in addition to digital video. An HDMI source differentiates between a legacy DVI display and an HDMI-capable display by reading the display's EDID block.
> 
> *To promote interoperability between DVI and HDMI devices, HDMI source components and displays support DVI signalling. An HDMI display can be driven by a single-link DVI-D source, since HDMI and DVI-D define an overlapping minimum set of supported resolutions and frame buffer formats. In the reverse scenario, a DVI monitor that lacks optional support for HDCP might be unable to display protected content, even though it is otherwise compatible with the HDMI source.
> *
> Features specific to HDMI, such as remote-control, audio transport, xvYCC, and deep-color, are not usable in devices that only support DVI signalling. However, many devices can output HDMI over a DVI output (examples: ATI 3000-series and NVIDIA GTX 200-series video cards),[7] and some multimedia displays accept HDMI (including audio) over a DVI input. Exact capabilities vary from product to product.


----------



## Spongeworthy

The whole point of this is to use HDMI so I can set custom resolutions of up to 4K for downsampling which I can't do through DVI since the max resolution is 1600p.


----------



## Descadent

the point is monitor requires dl-dvi.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> HAha Nice job bro! Get that monitor up and running. Enjoy!


Thanks, I got it running...... I have a Samsung also, & this has deeper colors than it. Crossover I would recommend to anyone.... Loving it a lot...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> I guess that answers it, I'm using a 7970, HDMI 1.4A supports up to 4k, is it just a limitation of the cables/adapter?


It's a limitation of the DVI spec - a dual link DVI signal is electrically different from an HDMI signal of the same bandwidth. This is a hard limit. HDMI 1.4 cannot be converted into DL-DVI without some fancy converters, which may or may not even exist.

And I doubt your monitor can handle HDMI 1.4A. But that's just my thoughts.
Quote:


> The whole point of this is to use HDMI so I can set custom resolutions of up to 4K for downsampling which I can't do through DVI since the max resolution is 1600p.


Errr... Get your video card to do it. It does downsampling better than the monitor ever could anyways. I don't know if drivers nowadays support it, but you're essentially talking about a super-sampling anti-aliasing mode. And it doesn't involve any fancy requirements on your cables.


----------



## yarrh

I'm thinking about buying a Samsung or Dell emblem on eBay and putting it over the crossover logo. It's hideous. Thoughts?


----------



## Ueberglock

»I'm thinking about buying a Samsung or Dell emblem on eBay and putting it over the crossover logo. It's hideous. Thoughts?«

I think this is a properly stupid idea. It's a Crossover, not a Samsung or Dell. Why make a fake of it? Are you a fashion victim or a brand name junkie? Why are you even asking other people's opinion about it? If you want to make that fake, just go ahead without bothering what others think &#8230; like men do.


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> I would also invite any other crossover owners to try running a blueray movie on this monitor in MPC-HC with Madvr + LAV. Blue-ray looks beautiful as is but if you have the horsepower and setup your player to upconvert 1080p to monitor resolution it is quite spectacular.


This is interesting. So you're talking about a plain Crossover 27Q without HDMI inputs, right? So does the 27Q do HDCP? Or are you circumventing that restriction by some other means? I'm assuming your talking about proper Blu-ray playback, not just a movie rip and copyright strip? I know you can get VLC to play BDs by adding the appropriate library and some keys. Haven't used MPC-HC so far.


----------



## yarrh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> »I'm thinking about buying a Samsung or Dell emblem on eBay and putting it over the crossover logo. It's hideous. Thoughts?«
> 
> I think this is a properly stupid idea. It's a Crossover, not a Samsung or Dell. Why make a fake of it? Are you a fashion victim or a brand name junkie? Why are you even asking other people's opinion about it? If you want to make that fake, just go ahead without bothering what others think &#8230; like men do.


I'm not exactly brand conscious. It's the aesthetic design of the logo that bothers me. I thought it would be better to cover it up than to sand it off for warranty purposes


----------



## Agoriaz

My monitor arrived today. Pristine condition, I'm amazed at the image quality. I can't even compare this against my old 2232BW


----------



## irpejoo

I am thinking about buying CROSSOVER 27Q LED 27" monitor. I have GTX560 direct cu videocard which supports this monitor. Now I have BenQ FP241W monitor and I am plannig to have dual monitors as crossover my main display. However I saw an info that said that you should have atleast GTX580 for dual monitor system. Does this mean that I cannot use these monitors simultaneously if I connect crossover to dual-link dvi and Benq to the other slot. I also have projector which is connected via hdmi so will all these be compatible with each other???

thanks


----------



## MunneY

I'm gonna be grabbing a 7990 in the next few weeks and am currently running 3 24" Asus VS248h-p monitors in 5760x1080. I don't game at that resolution, but I think I want to step it up. What would you guys recommend?

MunneY


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a Samsung or Dell emblem on eBay and putting it over the crossover logo. It's hideous. Thoughts?


considering it's an LG monitor -_-


----------



## KaRLiToS

I'm pretty happy to have CrossOvers and not Dell. I am a proud CrossOver owner.

Just buy a Dell if you want a Dell.


----------



## rogersjd14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Troubleshooting tips:
> 1. Change DVI-D cables
> 2. Test different DVI-D/I ports on card
> 3. Replace with aniother Power brick
> 4. Check internals of monitor to make sure nothing got loose or was lose prior and just finally came out.
> 5. Check LED PCB and other PCBs to make sure nothing was damage or burned out
> 6. Contact seller with pictures/video of the situation.
> 
> There gonna tell you to do ther above so why not do it now and if the problem persist after you can save the hassle and hopefully start a replacement order.
> GoodLuck!


Perfect. Exact response I was looking for.

Do you have any recommendations for 3, 4, and 5? Before I take the plunge on buying a new power brick and cracking open my monitor, I want to cover my bases. Suggestions on power brick? Suggestions on what to look for inside monitor?

Thanks again.


----------



## MunneY

Hey guys, I've been looking into these quite a bit since my last post and I was wondering if it makes a difference to purchase a Pixel Perfect vs regular. I see over huge price swings in them.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been looking into these quite a bit since my last post and I was wondering if it makes a difference to purchase a Pixel Perfect vs regular. I see over huge price swings in them.


NO, but completely subjective to your wants and desires.....this has been mentioned in this thread like every 2-3 pages almost.


----------



## MunneY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> NO, but completely subjective to your wants and desires.....this has been mentioned in this thread like every 2-3 pages almost.


Yeah I realize that and I hate when people do that... But this thread is over 5000 post long and some from over a year ago. I wish I would have gotten in on this when they were 300 bucks and not 4-500


----------



## Descadent

search this thread button!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogersjd14*
> 
> Perfect. Exact response I was looking for.
> 
> Do you have any recommendations for 3, 4, and 5? Before I take the plunge on buying a new power brick and cracking open my monitor, I want to cover my bases. Suggestions on power brick? Suggestions on what to look for inside monitor?
> 
> Thanks again.


Power Brick:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-AC-Adapter-Charger-For-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/230838320475?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item35bf093d5b

Checking inside is easy. Remove screws and just unplug/replug connectors or just double check everything is connected.

Look at the PCB's, Disconnect everything and just visually inspect the pcbs. IF anything looks damaged or perhaps burned ask for a replacement pcb or entire replacement of the monitor. Easier to ask for a pcb replacement. If it has a burned mosfet you'll see an actual black circle on the pcb. If a capacitor is blowned , the capacitor will look larger almost as if it's swelling.

IF everything checks out contact the seller.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> Hey guys, I've been looking into these quite a bit since my last post and I was wondering if it makes a difference to purchase a Pixel Perfect vs regular. I see over huge price swings in them.


Relatively a PP model is aprox 50-60 bucks more from a regular model. Like descadent and I have said several pages, feels like every page. It's preference. You got a high chance of getting a perfect monitor buying a regular one. PP is just to give you the ease of mind knowing your gonna get what you pay for. I've purchased PP models, descadent purchased regular models if I'm correct. We both are happy and have no issues with our monitors.


----------



## bleepjay

Hopefully I can get some help here from you guys.

I've got a Crossover 27QD Blade trying to hook it up to a Mac Mini 2012 i7 with Intel HD 4000

I have tried a Monoprice adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2

and Accell Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&camp=1789&tag=macrumors-20&creative=9325&path=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FAccell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link%2Fdp%2FB002ISVI3U

and now are going to try a http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&camp=1789&tag=macrumors-20&creative=9325&path=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FKanex-MDPC30-DisplayPort-Adapter-Display%2Fdp%2FB0045I85GY

The issue is that it never really powers on the monitor. It tries, and the monitor turns on for a split second and then shuts off. It then waits about 20 seconds and tries again.

THIS IS THE KICKER:
I installed Windows 8 in a bootcamp partition, and the monitor works fine. There is something in OS X (Mountain Lion) that is not making this work. Does anybody have any ideas? The adapter hooks up into the Thunderbolt/Mini Displayport and a USB port.

Why would this work in Bootcamp with the same hardware, but not in OS X?


----------



## Descadent

well accell adapter is one everyone uses. I can only think maybe something to do with that intel card and mac. no idea to tell you where to begin with a mac. I don't know if mac's need a driver for the monitor itself but you would think it would pick it up as plug and play general monitor like windows does, but no clue.

being that this is a pc enthusiast forum, you might be waiting on that answer


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleepjay*
> 
> Hopefully I can get some help here from you guys.
> 
> I've got a Crossover 27QD Blade trying to hook it up to a Mac Mini 2012 i7 with Intel HD 4000
> 
> I have tried a Monoprice adapter: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2
> 
> and Accell Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&camp=1789&tag=macrumors-20&creative=9325&path=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FAccell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link%2Fdp%2FB002ISVI3U
> 
> and now are going to try a http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&camp=1789&tag=macrumors-20&creative=9325&path=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FKanex-MDPC30-DisplayPort-Adapter-Display%2Fdp%2FB0045I85GY
> 
> The issue is that it never really powers on the monitor. It tries, and the monitor turns on for a split second and then shuts off. It then waits about 20 seconds and tries again.
> 
> THIS IS THE KICKER:
> I installed Windows 8 in a bootcamp partition, and the monitor works fine. There is something in OS X (Mountain Lion) that is not making this work. Does anybody have any ideas? The adapter hooks up into the Thunderbolt/Mini Displayport and a USB port.
> 
> Why would this work in Bootcamp with the same hardware, but not in OS X?


Mac's on this forum has been a hit or miss. Some get it right up and running just as it's intended. Others can;t get it running if there life depended on it. Honestly there is not clear cut answer for this. We have gone over Cables, Adapters, power bricks and monitors for troubleshooting. When tested on other computers it works then retrying on mac minis/books etc it just don't work. Can't really help on this one. Only thing I can think of is If your going to be using this on mac minis and laptops etc why did you go with the 27Q, get the multi input with hdmi and make this less of a hassle?

As for the power on then it turns right back off. There is a process to fix this if this was an actual computer I don't know about mac mini's For Desktops/Custom rigs and such it requires you do to discharge power off the pc. Holding the power button while turning off the actual PSU switch for 20-30 seconds to discharge everything. Then turn everything back on and the monitor goes. I actually had that issue with my current rig but again I don't know crap about mac mini or if the same process can be duplicated.


----------



## kabes

Can anyone tell me if the Crossover 27QD is HDCP capable? I've heard some people say it is, and some say it is not. If you have an nVidia card you can go into the nVidia control panel and under "Display" there is "View HDCP status" - not sure where it shows you with AMD cards.

Can anyone confirm?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the Crossover 27QD is HDCP capable? I've heard some people say it is, and some say it is not. If you have an nVidia card you can go into the nVidia control panel and under "Display" there is "View HDCP status" - not sure where it shows you with AMD cards.
> 
> Can anyone confirm?


Just checked and yes it's capable.


----------



## Agoriaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the Crossover 27QD is HDCP capable? I've heard some people say it is, and some say it is not. If you have an nVidia card you can go into the nVidia control panel and under "Display" there is "View HDCP status" - not sure where it shows you with AMD cards.
> 
> Can anyone confirm?


It's in Danish, but the green text and the checkmark should be proof enough


----------



## kabes

Thanks guys. Pulling the trigger in a few days.


----------



## Descadent

hdcp doesn't mean you can hook a ps3 to it though as 27q can't do hdmi and has no scaler. if that's why you were curious about hdcp that is.


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> hdcp doesn't mean you can hook a ps3 to it though as 27q can't do hdmi and has no scaler. if that's why you were curious about hdcp that is.


Nah was more curious for playing the occasional blu-ray on it on my PC. Thanks for mentioning it though.


----------



## sinisster

I just got my three Crossovers in, holy cow you guys aren't kidding....big props to AW, at my doorstep in 2 days and the picture is just astonishing...I got two that were black and one white...I read somewhere that the white were the older ones...Is this true?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinisster*
> 
> I just got my three Crossovers in, holy cow you guys aren't kidding....big props to AW, at my doorstep in 2 days and the picture is just astonishing...I got two that were black and one white...I read somewhere that the white were the older ones...Is this true?


Black and white as in the housing? No all crossover's are black in the front and white in the back. If you got an all white one dunno how that happened. IF I remember correctly all White has been out of stock for awhile now.


----------



## iMica

Just got my monitor a few minutes ago. took 3 days to get here









All I know is....I have to much screen space now ;-; no dead pixels (that i can see) or back light bleed : D

Its a heavy mother though lol


----------



## irpejoo

My graphic card have 2 x (DVI-I) connections (asus gtx560 cu). Am I able to use this crossover and my old 24"(fullhd) at the same time?? I also have projector trough hdmi in my graphic card.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *irpejoo*
> 
> My graphic card have 2 x (DVI-I) connections (asus gtx560 cu). Am I able to use this crossover and my old 24"(fullhd) at the same time?? I also have projector trough hdmi in my graphic card.


As long as it is *DVI-I Dual Link* and not DVI-I Single Link.


----------



## rogersjd14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Power Brick:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-5A-AC-Adapter-Charger-For-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/230838320475?pt=US_Monitor_Power_Supplies&hash=item35bf093d5b
> 
> Checking inside is easy. Remove screws and just unplug/replug connectors or just double check everything is connected.
> 
> Look at the PCB's, Disconnect everything and just visually inspect the pcbs. IF anything looks damaged or perhaps burned ask for a replacement pcb or entire replacement of the monitor. Easier to ask for a pcb replacement. If it has a burned mosfet you'll see an actual black circle on the pcb. If a capacitor is blowned , the capacitor will look larger almost as if it's swelling.
> 
> IF everything checks out contact the seller.


So I reseated all cables, said a prayer, and the thing started working. Didn't do anything different than before. Don't know what happened, but I'm happy!


----------



## vuman619

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> hdcp doesn't mean you can hook a ps3 to it though as 27q can't do hdmi and has no scaler. if that's why you were curious about hdcp that is.


You can hook a ps3 and Xbox 360 to the crossover, you just have to manually set the resolution to 720p first.


----------



## RyanBrantley

I've had my LED-P for 8 months now and today the (Blue) Backlight PCB died. I contacted Greensum who sold me the monitor and he offered to sell m a replacement for $44. I contacted accessorieswhole who offered to sell me one for $35 overnighted via FedEx. Just a heads up for anyone looking to purchase one, I wish I had purchased it from accessorieswhole who informed me that he would have shipped me one free of charge.


----------



## kabes

Pulled the trigger just now on a 27QD from accessorieswhole. I hope it comes on Friday but I'll probably have to wait until Monday. Replacing an Asus VG278H 3d TN monitor. I never used 3D vision though, it was a gimmick. The funny thing is I will be able to sell this one used for the price I paid for the Crossover.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> Pulled the trigger just now on a 27QD from accessorieswhole. I hope it comes on Friday but I'll probably have to wait until Monday. Replacing an Asus VG278H 3d TN monitor. I never used 3D vision though, it was a gimmick. The funny thing is I will be able to sell this one used for the price I paid for the Crossover.


sounds about exactly what I did. I like 3d but only in movies. I never really used it for games. I have a 55" 3dtv that I can still get my 3d fix from if I need it.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogersjd14*
> 
> So I reseated all cables, said a prayer, and the thing started working. Didn't do anything different than before. Don't know what happened, but I'm happy!


Glad it worked and I'm glad it helped.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanBrantley*
> 
> I've had my LED-P for 8 months now and today the (Blue) Backlight PCB died. I contacted Greensum who sold me the monitor and he offered to sell m a replacement for $44. I contacted accessorieswhole who offered to sell me one for $35 overnighted via FedEx. Just a heads up for anyone looking to purchase one, I wish I had purchased it from accessorieswhole who informed me that he would have shipped me one free of charge.


Yep, that seems about right. You lucky AW actually choose to help out. They are particular about only serving the individuals who bought from them. Better grab 2 from AW just in case.


----------



## RyanBrantley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Yep, that seems about right. You lucky AW actually choose to help out. They are particular about only serving the individuals who bought from them. Better grab 2 from AW just in case.


I am thankful. I will be purchasing a second monitor from them as well.


----------



## ehpexs

Thought it post a picture of my three crossovers, still waiting on monoprice cables for the two new ones. Before you ask, yes I'm buying a bigger desk tomorrow!


----------



## silvinho21

Does anyone know where I can get the pivot stand for these monitors, can't seem to find them on ebay.


----------



## hcm228

I just ordered a 27QD LED BLADE​ from AW. I mentioned the green pcb's before ordering from him and he said they are now also using blue pcbs again, but they are updated and not the same faulty ones as before. Just thought I would mention it. I look forward to getting this thing and putting it thru its paces.


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Mac's on this forum has been a hit or miss. Some get it right up and running just as it's intended. Others can;t get it running if there life depended on it. Honestly there is not clear cut answer for this. We have gone over Cables, Adapters, power bricks and monitors for troubleshooting. When tested on other computers it works then retrying on mac minis/books etc it just don't work. Can't really help on this one. Only thing I can think of is If your going to be using this on mac minis and laptops etc why did you go with the 27Q, get the multi input with hdmi and make this less of a hassle?


Again, I appreciate the help. I just got the Kanex adapter, and same issue. LED turns blue, screen comes up, and then just shuts off. It sometimes tries again, but never stays up. Booting into Windows 8 via Bootcamp works fine.

I think I may try the official Apple Adapter, but one thing that I have noticed about when it does come on. There are faint black vertical lines throughout the screen. I'm not sure if anybody else has seen this before and have tried a solution related to this. I ordered another cable, but they sent a single link, so I have to wait on a replacement (much cheaper than running to the store to try it out).

Anyways, thanks again, but if anybody has any insight on the vertical lines that may help me along, thanks.


----------



## Descadent

apple adapter won't do anything. the accel active adapter one was the only one you really needed to begin with. I think your issue more or less is... apple









far as lines go. yeah recheck connections/new cable etc


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> apple adapter won't do anything. the accel active adapter one was the only one you really needed to begin with. I think your issue more or less is... apple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> far as lines go. yeah recheck connections/new cable etc


The official apple adapter has worked just as good as anything for everyone I've seen use it. Typically people with it get recommended to buy yet another adapter, only to have that one run the same or worse. Only downside is it's like $30 more then it should be.

That being said, some people seem to have problems no matter what adapter they use.


----------



## alig23

Does the crossover 27q have a exact American counter part? I mean what displays uses the exact display in the monitor?
I am asking because a friend has access to a huge selection of broken monitors. If I was to get my hands on a monitor that uses the LG S-IPS 8-bit, would I be able to switch pcb's?


----------



## yarrh

Insane shipping as anticipated. Also here's how the backlight bleeding looks on my LED-P. All black screen in absolute darkness taken with an iphone 4s. I couldn't find any bad pixels after a quick inspection but it's really not a concern.

AW sent me an extra crossover by accident, and I'm waiting for their response on what to do about that. Anyone not get theirs?





*edit* actually that first shot was at min brightness. Wow it looks pretty bad now at max


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get the pivot stand for these monitors, can't seem to find them on ebay.


^^
Stable pivot stand please?


----------



## MunneY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> Insane shipping as anticipated. Also here's how the backlight bleeding looks on my LED-P. All black screen in absolute darkness taken with an iphone 4s. I couldn't find any bad pixels after a quick inspection but it's really not a concern.
> 
> AW sent me an extra crossover by accident, and I'm waiting for their response on what to do about that. Anyone not get theirs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* actually that first shot was at min brightness. Wow it looks pretty bad now at max


If they tell you to keep it let me know and I'll pay you face value for it. :-D


----------



## kabes

I can't believe how fast the shipping from AW is.

I pressed the Buy it Now button 39 hours ago and it's now "on vehicle for delivery"


----------



## Esotericrj

Well after 6 months of browsing endless forums and watching prices, I took the plunge.Grabbed one from AW 27Q-P , can't wait to give it a spin. Could of grabbed a 27QD-P at $360 last night and held out and it was gone this morning. Settled for $419 Q27-P which has a nicer case anyway .







fingers crossed all goes well!


----------



## x3Infamous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> I can't believe how fast the shipping from AW is.
> 
> I pressed the Buy it Now button 39 hours ago and it's now "on vehicle for delivery"


Hell yeah! Mines shipped out Thursday and I received it Friday morning. I wasn't expecting it to come until Monday. It was a pleasant surprise with knocks at my door this morning. I was shocked I received mines so quick!

I ordered the 2720MDP Pivot since I needed an HDMI port but OMG. Works flawlessly and I think I have one dead pixel at the bottom left corner. Not even noticeable unless you are seriously looking


----------



## yarrh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MunneY*
> 
> If they tell you to keep it let me know and I'll pay you face value for it. :-D


If that happens I'll consider it. Where do you live?

Just did a backlight bleeding test.

It is a 27Q LED-P w/ the green PCB. The only ambient light was the blue LED on the bottom corner of the panel. (dark basement/night-time/no window)

I set up the tripod precisely 10 feet away and zoomed into the screen set on max brightness while full-screened on a 2560 X 1440 black PNG file made with MSpaint.

*focal length*
55mm X 1.6(Canon APS-C) = 88mm
*aperture*
f/2.8
*metering mode*
evaluative
*wb*
auto
*iso*
400

While on manual mode, I varied the shutter speed while keeping the above settings constant.

1/10 sec

1/8 sec

1/6 sec

1/4 sec

3/10 sec

1/2 sec

8/10 sec

1.0 sec

2.5 sec

5.0 sec

10.0 sec (remember that this is a completely black screen taken with a long shutter)


As you can see in my case, the bleeding is most clearly defined from 1/2s to 2.5s. It has only been apparent while playing videos with dark scenes but 95% of the time it goes completely unnoticed. Also, I want to mention that the distance between your camera and the panel doesn't matter if you have no manual control over the rest of your camera's functions i.e, with phone cameras. If there were to be a "standard" for testing backlight bleeding, it should comprise of a full set of fixed camera settings and ambient conditions.

A panel displaying black that appears uniformly faded-and-washed *in a photo* does not necessarily mean that its black levels are not deep or that the backlight pouring out. Again, this depends on the camera settings at which the photo was taken. The photos above with varying shutter speeds is a case in point.

What's key is the variation of light levels over various regions of the screen in a single photo. _However_ most consumer-grade cameras have contrast-enhancing processors that automatically make colors "pop," thereby greatly exaggerating the intensity of any light bleed. Just compare the last pic of my previous post to the worst ones in this post.

The point is, if the bleeding isn't bothersome to your naked eye under normal use then it doesn't warrant a defect. It's impossible to properly evaluate the severity of backlight bleeding via photos without a standardized test and a benchmark. Thus, every backlight bleeding photo in this thread is meaningless, including mine.


----------



## MunneY

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="yarrh" url="/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/4900_100#post_19298906"]
If that happens I'll consider it. Where do you live?

Just did a backlight bleeding test.

It is a 27Q LED-P w/ the green PCB. The only ambient light was the blue LED on the bottom corner of the panel. (dark basement/night-time/no window)

I set up the tripod precisely 10 feet away and zoomed into the screen set on max brightness while full-screened on a 2560 X 1440 black PNG file made with MSpaint.

*focal length*
55mm X 1.6(Canon APS-C) = 88mm
*aperture*
f/2.8
*metering mode*
evaluative
*wb*
auto
*iso*
400

While on manual mode, I varied the shutter speed while keeping the above settings constant.

1/10 sec

1/8 sec

1/6 sec

1/4 sec

3/10 sec

1/2 sec

8/10 sec

1.0 sec

2.5 sec

5.0 sec

10.0 sec (remember that this is a completely black screen taken with a long shutter)


As you can see in my case, the bleeding is most clearly defined from 1/2s to 2.5s. It has only been apparent while playing videos with dark scenes but 95% of the time it goes completely unnoticed. Also, I want to mention that the distance between your camera and the panel doesn't matter if you have no manual control over the rest of your camera's functions i.e, with phone cameras. If there were to be a "standard" for testing backlight bleeding, it should comprise of a full set of fixed camera settings and ambient conditions.

A panel displaying black that appears uniformly faded-and-washed *in a photo* does not necessarily mean that its black levels are not deep or that the backlight pouring out. Again, this depends on the camera settings at which the photo was taken. The photos above with varying shutter speeds is a case in point.

What's key is the variation of light levels over various regions of the screen in a single photo. _However_ most consumer-grade cameras have contrast-enhancing processors that automatically make colors "pop," thereby greatly exaggerating the intensity of any light bleed. Just compare the last pic of my previous post to the worst ones in this post.

The point is, if the bleeding isn't bothersome to your naked eye under normal use then it doesn't warrant a defect. It's impossible to properly evaluate the severity of backlight bleeding via photos without a standardized test and a benchmark. Thus, every backlight bleeding photo in this thread is meaningless, including mine.


[/quote]

TN.


----------



## blackhand

Hello! I am really interested in buying one of these, it seems out of the 3 options of korean monitors, the crossovers seems like the cheapest, and with the least amount of problems. i was looking at the other threads (Catleap, and Shimian) and their threads are practically dead and the last few comments were of people saying how their monitor is broken and the sellers dont want to help them. from my understand for what little i skimmed through here, accessories whole is a good seller and very fast? and to buy from him. what are the most common problems and what accessories will i have to buy to be able to power one of these things. I currently own a 5870 will that be fine? i dont really play many games just sc2 and LoL and i wouldnt mind changing my resolution to 1080 if i had lag or something. i believe my card has DVI-D, is there a way to tell on my ports the difference between DVI-D and DVI - I Ports in my GPU?

well thank you guys in advance for responses.


----------



## kabes

I got my 27QD LED BLADE today from AW. It arrived less than 48 hours after ordering from Korea to Canada!

First things first: Not one single dead or stuck pixel (I ordered the NON pixel perfect). I am pretty happy about that because I went back and forth on whether to spend the extra $80 on pixel perfect but I'm glad I didn't.

The picture had a greenish tint out of the box but I fixed that with my Spyder4 colorimeter. I calibrated to 180 cd/m2 and 6500k. I may bump it down to 150 cd/m2 as its pretty bright. Overall the picture is leagues beyond my old TN 1080p panel. Better colors, better contrast, no gamma or brightness shifts (I like to sit pretty close to the monitor, so this was a big problem for TN). A bit of glow on a black screen in two of the corners but nothing substantial or noticeable in normal use.

The only thing that sucks is the stand. It's extremely cheap. It does tilt but it's VERY stiff. You have to grab the part of the stand that sticks up (not the base) and then push the back of the monitor from near the stand. If you were to just grab the top of the monitor to tilt it, it feels like the plastic stand would snap under the pressure. But once I got it set, it was OK.

Oh and if there's any Canadians interested, FedEx dinged me for $37 in duties/taxes (most of that taxes)

Below are some pics:


No major damage to box


The box is generic. Notice how it says HDMI and display port when there isn't any.


Welltronics power supply, DVI-D cable, power cable (used my own, the white adapter felt cheap plus didn't have a ground)


Cardboard over screen



Inputs


Calibrating with Spyder






2.2 gamma after calibration


Over 100% SRGB


81% AdobeRGB


----------



## Descadent

Cloud and I keep telling yall AW is no joke now!









glad everyone got good monitors. now see how long you can hold off from getting 2nd and 3rd.


----------



## coolxal

Anyone know where to get a white one?

They seem to have been OOS since mid December with no sign of restocking.

I already got a white one and want another one to make it match but I guess I'll settle for a black one if nothing else.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Cloud and I keep telling yall AW is no joke now!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> glad everyone got good monitors. now see how long you can hold off from getting 2nd and 3rd.


It's impossible! You all will convert to 2-3 monitors eventually. It's a curse and a gift at the same time. Hope your all enjoying the monitors for everyone who just recieved it.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> I got my 27QD LED BLADE today from AW. It arrived less than 48 hours after ordering from Korea to Canada!
> 
> First things first: Not one single dead or stuck pixel (I ordered the NON pixel perfect). I am pretty happy about that because I went back and forth on whether to spend the extra $80 on pixel perfect but I'm glad I didn't.
> 
> The picture had a greenish tint out of the box but I fixed that with my Spyder4 colorimeter. I calibrated to 180 cd/m2 and 6500k. I may bump it down to 150 cd/m2 as its pretty bright. Overall the picture is leagues beyond my old TN 1080p panel. Better colors, better contrast, no gamma or brightness shifts (I like to sit pretty close to the monitor, so this was a big problem for TN). A bit of glow on a black screen in two of the corners but nothing substantial or noticeable in normal use.
> 
> The only thing that sucks is the stand. It's extremely cheap. It does tilt but it's VERY stiff. You have to grab the part of the stand that sticks up (not the base) and then push the back of the monitor from near the stand. If you were to just grab the top of the monitor to tilt it, it feels like the plastic stand would snap under the pressure. But once I got it set, it was OK.
> 
> Oh and if there's any Canadians interested, FedEx dinged me for $37 in duties/taxes (most of that taxes)
> 
> Below are some pics:
> 
> 
> No major damage to box
> 
> 
> The box is generic. Notice how it says HDMI and display port when there isn't any.
> 
> 
> Welltronics power supply, DVI-D cable, power cable (used my own, the white adapter felt cheap plus didn't have a ground)
> 
> 
> Cardboard over screen
> 
> 
> 
> Inputs
> 
> 
> Calibrating with Spyder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.2 gamma after calibration
> 
> 
> Over 100% SRGB
> 
> 
> 81% AdobeRGB


Mind sharing the profile you created using spyder so I can do a quick contrast vs my X-Rite Eye-One Display 2 set to 6500K, Gamma 2.2
Much appreciated if you do.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhand*
> 
> Hello! I am really interested in buying one of these, it seems out of the 3 options of korean monitors, the crossovers seems like the cheapest, and with the least amount of problems. i was looking at the other threads (Catleap, and Shimian) and their threads are practically dead and the last few comments were of people saying how their monitor is broken and the sellers dont want to help them. from my understand for what little i skimmed through here, accessories whole is a good seller and very fast? and to buy from him. what are the most common problems and what accessories will i have to buy to be able to power one of these things. I currently own a 5870 will that be fine? i dont really play many games just sc2 and LoL and i wouldnt mind changing my resolution to 1080 if i had lag or something. i believe my card has DVI-D, is there a way to tell on my ports the difference between DVI-D and DVI - I Ports in my GPU?
> 
> well thank you guys in advance for responses.


Literally check the last 10-20 pages and you'll get all the answers you need.
or
Check my review: http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors

Either way you gotta do some searching and reading


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Mind sharing the profile you created using spyder so I can do a quick contrast vs my X-Rite Eye-One Display 2 set to 6500K, Gamma 2.2
> Much appreciated if you do.


here you go:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/Crossover27qd_ICC.zip

The one profile is 6500k and works for a brighter backlight setting, the "DarkRoom" one is 5800k and good for a dimmer setting like 120 cd/m2


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> here you go:
> 
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/Crossover27qd_ICC.zip
> 
> The one profile is 6500k and works for a brighter backlight setting, the "DarkRoom" one is 5800k and good for a dimmer setting like 120 cd/m2


Yep was able to test it. Your dark room profile, seems more closer to the Apple/Samsung display profiles.
The 6500k variant is very similar to mine just yours has a darker hue to it. Almost spot on if it wasn't that,
Very nice, I'm going to switch between mine and yours to test.

--update--
Oddly enough colors seem exact just yours apparently are darker. Have a look and hopefully I'm not going blind.

Here DL my profile and lemme know what you think.
http://uploading.com/c1333151/PB2700Super_6500K_2_2Gamma-rar


----------



## rho86

I got my Crossover 27q LED-P yesterday from BCC and set it up. There a very high pitch noise from the monitor itself (not the power adapter). It's very loud especially when the monitor is showing a white screen. I believe the problem is coming from the inductor coils/chokes on the mainboard. I've sent a msg to BCC about the issue.

Does anybody know if easy to access to PCB on this model? Anyone think I should put some epoxy / hot glue on the chokes to shut them up?


----------



## Kentaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> here you go:
> 
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/Crossover27qd_ICC.zip
> 
> The one profile is 6500k and works for a brighter backlight setting, the "DarkRoom" one is 5800k and good for a dimmer setting like 120 cd/m2


Wait, you're achieving 120cd/m2 on these monitors? I thought the lowest brightness level you could achieve with these monitor was something a lot brighter.


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kentaro*
> 
> Wait, you're achieving 120cd/m2 on these monitors? I thought the lowest brightness level you could achieve with these monitor was something a lot brighter.


No, my backlight will go even lower than 120. I haven't tested how low though. When my spyder was helping me find the right brightness I went down to 110 at one point.

Cloudz00x, discrepancies in our colors may be because we calibrated at different brightness levels plus minor differences from panel to panel maybe.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rho86*
> 
> I got my Crossover 27q LED-P yesterday from BCC and set it up. There a very high pitch noise from the monitor itself (not the power adapter). It's very loud especially when the monitor is showing a white screen. I believe the problem is coming from the inductor coils/chokes on the mainboard. I've sent a msg to BCC about the issue.
> 
> Does anybody know if easy to access to PCB on this model? Anyone think I should put some epoxy / hot glue on the chokes to shut them up?


Very easy to remove. Just unscrew all the screws in the back and lift that half of the housing. Open slowly while disconnect the PCB's connectors.


----------



## Kentaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> No, my backlight will go even lower than 120. I haven't tested how low though. When my spyder was helping me find the right brightness I went down to 110 at one point.
> 
> Cloudz00x, discrepancies in our colors may be because we calibrated at different brightness levels plus minor differences from panel to panel maybe.


Hmm I wonder if the blade has better back light control then the vanilla 27q?


----------



## yarrh

It took me a couple of days to notice this but my monitor has a slightly uneven coloration.

I had two Word documents up like so



and immediately noticed that the right window has a reddish tinge while the left side is more yellow.

Also there's a yellow band across the very top of the screen that covers about 90% of the width.

All of this is only noticeable when the screen is white. Does anyone care to check theirs?


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kentaro*
> 
> Hmm I wonder if the blade has better back light control then the vanilla 27q?


It's possible I guess. Each click of the backlight button changes the brightness by 10-15 cd/m2. On the lower brightness settings its 10 per click, but above 200 cd/m2 it's more like 15 per click. When I get the chance I will test the full range and see what the min and max is.
Quote:


> All of this is only noticeable when the screen is white. Does anyone care to check theirs?


On an all-white screen I wouldn't say mine is perfectly uniform but I have no color bands or anything. It's almost pure white. Perhaps the bottom is slightly warmer than the top but I sort of have to unfocus my eyes to see it.

This will be easier to use than MS Word I think: http://www.doihaveadeadpixel.com/


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> It took me a couple of days to notice this but my monitor has a slightly uneven coloration.
> 
> I had two Word documents up like so
> 
> 
> 
> and immediately noticed that the right window has a reddish tinge while the left side is more yellow.
> 
> Also there's a yellow band across the very top of the screen that covers about 90% of the width.
> 
> All of this is only noticeable when the screen is white. Does anyone care to check theirs?


I have a somewhat yellowish tinge down the middle and along the bottom. Bothered me at first, but then I saw this.
Considering people paying 3x as much for the same panel are having the same issue, I can't complain too much..


----------



## Kentaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> It's possible I guess. Each click of the backlight button changes the brightness by 10-15 cd/m2. On the lower brightness settings its 10 per click, but above 200 cd/m2 it's more like 15 per click. When I get the chance I will test the full range and see what the min and max is.
> On an all-white screen I wouldn't say mine is perfectly uniform but I have no color bands or anything. It's almost pure white. Perhaps the bottom is slightly warmer than the top but I sort of have to unfocus my eyes to see it.
> 
> This will be easier to use than MS Word I think: http://www.doihaveadeadpixel.com/


That would be awesome, kabes! I was close to pulling the trigger on a vanilla 27q (love the white metal back) but then found reviews saying how bright it is on it's lowest setting and somebody even going to the length of modding the monitor to reduce the backlight. Hitting 2.2 gamma, 6500k and 120cd/m2 is something I'm after in a monitor and if the Blade version can do that then I'll be getting one of those.


----------



## kornedbeefy

I ordered the 27Q from Accesorieswhole on Saturday. So while I wait for it to be delivered I have a comment and a question.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors

I hope Fedex tracking is wrong. Cloudz00x recieved his in one day. Mine says Thursday. I also live on east coast so don't understand why it would take 2 to 3 additional days.

From what I read in the review the power brick should be fine but whats the opinion on the included DVI-D cable? Are most of you buying a replacement?

edit.... I thinking I might want a longer DVI-D cable anyway. Is this the right one and Is there any degradation or issue with a longer cable?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2687&seq=1&format=2


----------



## kabes

I got my monitor on Friday but Fedex estimated it wouldn't be delivered until the following wednesday. Their estimation is very conservative.


----------



## kornedbeefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> I got my monitor on Friday but Fedex estimated it wouldn't be delivered until the following wednesday. Their estimation is very conservative.


Very nice, glad to hear. I know UPS, for me anyway is usually right on the day it says it will be delivered.

OMG, when did Monoprice get crazy on shipping. They want $12.97 (cheapest) to ship a $12.92 cable???


----------



## timcee

Hi, My monitor arrives Wednesday (according to FedEx). There's so many posts in this thread I'm sure this has been covered. My girlfriend will be using this monitor and she is a photographer so colour has become important. I've decided to get calibration hardware but I just wanted to know what people are using on these monitors? I don't have a big experience with colour calibration so any advice would be very helpful. Thanks in advance


----------



## hcm228

I ordered my monitor Thurs. afternoon and its on the truck for delivery today to MS. Good luck.


----------



## kornedbeefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kornedbeefy*
> 
> Very nice, glad to hear. I know UPS, for me anyway is usually right on the day it says it will be delivered.
> 
> OMG, when did Monoprice get crazy on shipping. They want $12.97 (cheapest) to ship a $12.92 cable???


So I've decided to skip on buying a new dvi-d cable for now unless replacing the one that comes with it is highly recommended. I search of this thread and couldn't find any overwhelming reasons why I should.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timcee*
> 
> Hi, My monitor arrives Wednesday (according to FedEx). There's so many posts in this thread I'm sure this has been covered. My girlfriend will be using this monitor and she is a photographer so colour has become important. I've decided to get calibration hardware but I just wanted to know what people are using on these monitors? I don't have a big experience with colour calibration so any advice would be very helpful. Thanks in advance


Me and Kabes have already calibrated this monitor using our hardware. Applying the color profile is easy. Just do so and ask the gf if these colors are up to her standards. If not let her do it herself

My profiles are located in my review at the bottom:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors

Kabes profiles are in this link:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/Crossover27qd_ICC.zip

We both use different hardware, me using X-Rite and him using Spyder. Enjoy the profiles regardless of which one you use, it will definitely make the current monitor better.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kornedbeefy*
> 
> So I've decided to skip on buying a new dvi-d cable for now unless replacing the one that comes with it is highly recommended. I search of this thread and couldn't find any overwhelming reasons why I should.


The only purpose to getting the other cables is for the AWG. The more copper the better the signal. It's not needed since the distance is short but I like the feel and the quality produced from the cables I bought.
The purpose of buying from mono price is not for a single item. It's more stock then single. So when you buy one cable and then get hit with shipping yea I'd be like *** too. IF you buy 3+ cables compared to actual retail price then with shipping, you'll understand why your saving lol.


----------



## Descadent

my shipping estimation on all 3 was wayyyyyy out from when I actually got them. only took 1 and half days to get korea to NC


----------



## hcm228

I have older color spyder software installed, it seems to me that instead of using the profile I put in, its only changing when I reboot and the colorspyder software sees the ICC. Im waiting on a new one to come so I can update stuff for the newer screen. Should I just uninstall the old colorspyder software? Should my ICC's be changing then I click on them or do I have to restart to notice the differences? Monitor looks great...Thanks in advance.


----------



## hcm228

I seem to have figured it out. Im stupid.


----------



## RyanBrantley

Installed my new PCB from AccessoriesWhole today and the monitor is as good as new! You'll never want to go back to a standard monitor again, the 2 day wait was torture for me!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hcm228*
> 
> I have older color spyder software installed, it seems to me that instead of using the profile I put in, its only changing when I reboot and the colorspyder software sees the ICC. Im waiting on a new one to come so I can update stuff for the newer screen. Should I just uninstall the old colorspyder software? Should my ICC's be changing then I click on them or do I have to restart to notice the differences? Monitor looks great...Thanks in advance.


Reads the directions on my review for the crossover and head to the bottom for directions. Your pc reboots and reverts back, you have to set it so it doesn't revert. This is a simple problem with a simple solution.


----------



## kornedbeefy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> The only purpose to getting the other cables is for the AWG. The more copper the better the signal. It's not needed since the distance is short but I like the feel and the quality produced from the cables I bought.
> The purpose of buying from mono price is not for a single item. It's more stock then single. So when you buy one cable and then get hit with shipping yea I'd be like *** too. IF you buy 3+ cables compared to actual retail price then with shipping, you'll understand why your saving lol.


I love Monoprice. I've been buying cables (singles/multiples) from them for a number of years. However, today was the first time I got shipping sticker shock.

You know whats weird. I went to make a comment to Monoprice customer service and I noticed I had both a 28awg and a 24awg in my cart. The cost of shipping was $8+. I remove the 28awg and it jumps to $12+. With just the 28awg its $7+. Something about that 24 awg cable is causing the excessive shipping cost. I sent my comment of what I experienced. shrug

Its just a matter of waiting now. Newegg NJ is shipping out my new HD 7950. Its activity on UPS is still showing origin scan as of yesterday. FEDEX shows my Crossover arriving in Anchorage AK. I have a feeling the monitor will get here first.


----------



## Descadent

i don't use monoprice because of the shipping prices...when i have amazon prime especially.


----------



## timcee

sorry posted twice somehow!!


----------



## timcee

Thanks Cloudz00x I will use those profiles when my screen arrives.

Another rookie colour question. Would i not make a more accurate colour profile if i got hardware and calibrated my own new screen? Wouldn't that be unique to my monitor and more accurate than your profile? Also I've heard that people tend to run calibration regularly to keep colour true, so i would need to buy hardware anyway eventually. Obviously I'd rather not spend on calibration hardware and would love to just use your profile lol!! I'm very out of my depth with this stuff but i'm getting there!!


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timcee*
> 
> Thanks Cloudz00x I will use those profiles when my screen arrives.
> 
> Another rookie colour question. Would i not make a more accurate colour profile if i got hardware and calibrated my own new screen? Wouldn't that be unique to my monitor and more accurate than your profile? Also I've heard that people tend to run calibration regularly to keep colour true, so i would need to buy hardware anyway eventually. Obviously I'd rather not spend on calibration hardware and would love to just use your profile lol!! I'm very out of my depth with this stuff but i'm getting there!!


The new stock on CrossOver 27Q's from AW are in perfect shape including panel and color tint. I noticed this in comparison to the older ones where you'd get a severe blue/yellow tint. Regardless of where you buy your monitor from even from apple/samsung/dell it can be good or have some sort of tint. Whatever AW is doing is good and is keeping it up.
So using a profile will be good but again it depends now on your gf. Are the colors acceptable for what she needs to do. Regardless the monitor is calibrated but is it too her liking?
Once a monitor is calibrated that's necessarily it, now if your doing something that you want a different perspective on or diff color spectrum or light/darker then use Adobe to suit your needs or re-calibrate. In essence once it's calibrated you don't necessarily need to do it again.


----------



## retro12345

Thanks for your help everyone. I ordered a 27QD Blade last Thurs and received it yesterday (extremely fast shipping like everyone mentioned). Your profiles made the monitor colors look great, but I have several issues with the screen. 2 dead pixels in the lower left hand corner (annoyingly right near the start menu button), but the bigger issue is what looks like 4 dead spots right in the center of the screen. Not sure how describe it since it is not dead pixels, but 4 small dark areas that extend to the screen. I have contacted AccessoriesWhole to see how they want to handle the situation (already tried different cables, cleaning the area with damp microfiber, and tried on different computers that have different video cards).






Any other suggestions? I posted a video about it on youtube, but wanted to give everyone a heads up since wee have others ordering this same monitor.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro12345*
> 
> Thanks for your help everyone. I ordered a 27QD Blade last Thurs and received it yesterday (extremely fast shipping like everyone mentioned). Your profiles made the monitor colors look great, but I have several issues with the screen. 2 dead pixels in the lower left hand corner (annoyingly right near the start menu button), but the bigger issue is what looks like 4 dead spots right in the center of the screen. Not sure how describe it since it is not dead pixels, but 4 small dark areas that extend to the screen. I have contacted AccessoriesWhole to see how they want to handle the situation (already tried different cables, cleaning the area with damp microfiber, and tried on different computers that have different video cards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions? I posted a video about it on youtube, but wanted to give everyone a heads up since wee have others ordering this same monitor.


It seems you didn't buy the PP model seems to be luck of the draw for what happened. Read the description on the eBay listing per the pixel policy since this isn't PP. If you have more then what is specified then it should be replaced if that's what you wish for.


----------



## timcee

Thanks again for your reply. That makes sense i will use your profile. It also means I don't have to fork out for calibrating hardware/software for now







thanks


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro12345*
> 
> Thanks for your help everyone. I ordered a 27QD Blade last Thurs and received it yesterday (extremely fast shipping like everyone mentioned). Your profiles made the monitor colors look great, but I have several issues with the screen. 2 dead pixels in the lower left hand corner (annoyingly right near the start menu button), but the bigger issue is what looks like 4 dead spots right in the center of the screen. Not sure how describe it since it is not dead pixels, but 4 small dark areas that extend to the screen. I have contacted AccessoriesWhole to see how they want to handle the situation (already tried different cables, cleaning the area with damp microfiber, and tried on different computers that have different video cards).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any other suggestions? I posted a video about it on youtube, but wanted to give everyone a heads up since wee have others ordering this same monitor.


If you don't think the center ones are dead pixels perhaps its dust trapped between the layers? Their policy is 3 dead pixel maximum but im not sure if these center spots count or not. You should take closeup pictures and email them to AW.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> If you don't think the center ones are dead pixels perhaps its dust trapped between the layers? Their policy is 3 dead pixel maximum but im not sure if these center spots count or not. You should take closeup pictures and email them to AW.


Oh yea I forgot about dust. If it';s dust under the monitor you can't do anything about it. It's more you have to play surgeon if you care to do so and get the dust out.


----------



## retro12345

Thanks for the feedback. I'll more likely put additional dust in there if I try to play surgeon, so I'll update with what options AccessoriesWhole provides.


----------



## hcm228

I hate to see that for ya Retro. I ordered mine on Thurs and got it yesterday as well. It has one dead pixel on the lower right side. Unless I look for it I will never notice it. The backlight bleed is very minimal. Absolutely no way Im complaining about that as Ive seen much worse from other more expensive displays. Its about as low as you can expect from a ips screen. Overall, Im blown away by what I got for the price. 360 bucks to my door for this goodness. AWESOME!!


----------



## kabes

Crysis 3 is bringing my system to its knees, but its playable on highest settings for single player. Here's some 1440p shots. Looks amazing.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/crysis3%202013-02-19%2012-50-26-63.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/crysis3%202013-02-19%2012-53-02-05.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/crysis3%202013-02-19%2013-04-47-20.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/crysis3%202013-02-19%2012-17-21-07.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/crysis3%202013-02-19%2013-13-23-69.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/crysis3%202013-02-19%2012-49-02-26.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25316727/crysis3%202013-02-19%2012-52-21-45.jpg


----------



## Descadent

embed your shots. you are requiring me to click!


----------



## timcee

Woop my screen is in transit on English soil







just another quick question to Cloudz00x You talk about going for a green pcb? Does it still matter as I've also just read that they've started using blue coloured again but they are different to the old faulty ones. I didn't ask 'AW' when i got my monitor for a specific colour. Thanks


----------



## rho86

I finally got around to making a video of the high pitch noise my monitor is giving off as per the sellers request.





Do you guys think this makes the monitor defective? I'm going to wait to see the sellers reply before attempting a fix on my own.


----------



## JJ1217

Hey guys, I got a 27Q, but I'm sending back my 7950 V1 back to Asus for the V2 (I asked them about this, and they said they would do it for me), so I'll be out of a card for a couple of days (Less than 3 days according to Asus, they are cross shipping)

Can I run the monitor at least (like 1440p isn't necessary), so I can use it? Or will I have to plug in my old 1920x1080 for a couple days?

I have an

i5 3550 and a ASrock z77 extreme 4... any tips?


----------



## rock2702

I have also made up mind to get the crossover 27q led-p monitor from Accessorieswhole.Tried contacting the seller regarding the price but got no response







Any way out?


----------



## CrossoverMan

I have similar question to JJ1217.

I just got my Crossover 27QD through the post, and don't have discrete GPU yet (getting 7950 over the weekend). I tried putting my dual-link dvi cable into my motherboard and tried using both onboard and iGPU graphics. Neither work. Monitor just sits there in standby. I was hoping to be able to use at least 1080p until the weekend. I even tried using my old vanilla dvi cable but to no effect.

Is there any way to get this monitor up and running in some form or do i NEED to use discrete GPU, even to turn it on?

I am using 3570K (INTEL HD Graphics 4000) and P8Z77-M Pro motherboard.

My first post on the forum btw, any help would be appreciated if anyone knows anything.

Thanks.


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrossoverMan*
> 
> I have similar question to JJ1217.
> 
> I just got my Crossover 27QD through the post, and don't have discrete GPU yet (getting 7950 over the weekend). I tried putting my dual-link dvi cable into my motherboard and tried using both onboard and iGPU graphics. Neither work. Monitor just sits there in standby. I was hoping to be able to use at least 1080p until the weekend. I even tried using my old vanilla dvi cable but to no effect.
> 
> Is there any way to get this monitor up and running in some form or do i NEED to use discrete GPU, even to turn it on?
> 
> I am using 3570K (INTEL HD Graphics 4000) and P8Z77-M Pro motherboard.
> 
> My first post on the forum btw, any help would be appreciated if anyone knows anything.
> 
> Thanks.


The DVI output on that board doesn't support 2560x1440, only a maximum of 1920x1200. If it doesn't work with the 1080p monitor then you probably don't have the right Intel Graphics drivers installed or you have the iGPU disabled int he BIOS.


----------



## CrossoverMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndyM95*
> 
> The DVI output on that board doesn't support 2560x1440, only a maximum of 1920x1200. If it doesn't work with the 1080p monitor then you probably don't have the right Intel Graphics drivers installed or you have the iGPU disabled int he BIOS.


Thanks for the reply. I actually hadn't uninstalled my old GPU drivers yet so i will give that a go. Will also try different settings in BIOS to make sure iGPU is functioning!


----------



## CrossoverMan

Still not working, just sits there with the red light on. Uninstalled my AMD GPU drivers and installed latest Intel HD drivers. Confirmed that my iGPU is functioning also.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> I have also made up mind to get the crossover 27q led-p monitor from Accessorieswhole.Tried contacting the seller regarding the price but got no response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way out?


the price is what you see


----------



## retro12345

Quick update...received a reply from AccessoriesWhole that I should bang the dust out from the monitor...tried giving it several whacks but no luck. Anyone have experience with this?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timcee*
> 
> Woop my screen is in transit on English soil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just another quick question to Cloudz00x You talk about going for a green pcb? Does it still matter as I've also just read that they've started using blue coloured again but they are different to the old faulty ones. I didn't ask 'AW' when i got my monitor for a specific colour. Thanks


As we haven't had anyone report back with the new blue PCB and how it looks then I still recommend getting the Green PCB. Not doubting AW but when someone receives a blue one and it's a different revision with 3 mosfets on it instead of 1 then it's good to go.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> I have also made up mind to get the crossover 27q led-p monitor from Accessorieswhole.Tried contacting the seller regarding the price but got no response
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way out?


Why would you buy it then contact him about price. That's kinda backwards lol.
Just give it time, they don't work on weekends if that's when you tried to contact and the time zones are way different. They will respond to you.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *retro12345*
> 
> Quick update...received a reply from AccessoriesWhole that I should bang the dust out from the monitor...tried giving it several whacks but no luck. Anyone have experience with this?


Honestly no, like I said open her up and play surgeon but be careful as to not make anything worse or damage anything. You will be liable. It sucks there dust in the monitor but this is something common that happens to all monitors.


----------



## rock2702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Why would you buy it then contact him about price. That's kinda backwards lol.
> Just give it time, they don't work on weekends if that's when you tried to contact and the time zones are way different. They will respond to you.


You didn't get me there mate







I m thinking of buying the crossover 27q led-p monitor from accessorieswhole,your awesome review has sort of convinced
me to go with this monitor with accessorieswhole as the seller.I mailed him asking about the green pcb(which you recommended in your review) and the
right adapter for my country.Did not get a response for about 24hrs.Just wanna ask you again whether green pcb monitor is the one to get and should i go
with the pixel perfect version,its around $100 price premium over the non pixel perfect one.


----------



## Huff

I got my monitor from AccessoriesWhole yesterday. Ordered it Friday morning and it arrived at my door in New York on Tuesday! You guys were right, very fast shipping. I have one dead pixel in the lower left side of the screen, but it's not a problem and takes a lot of work for me to notice it. I'm very impressed with the quality of the monitor for the price I paid.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> You didn't get me there mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I m thinking of buying the crossover 27q led-p monitor from accessorieswhole,your awesome review has sort of convinced
> me to go with this monitor with accessorieswhole as the seller.I mailed him asking about the green pcb(which you recommended in your review) and the
> right adapter for my country.Did not get a response for about 24hrs.Just wanna ask you again whether green pcb monitor is the one to get and should i go
> with the pixel perfect version,its around $100 price premium over the non pixel perfect one.


We have covered the pcb and pixel perfect debate in this thread a hundred times and just about every page someone asks it. Please use search this thread function everyone!


----------



## kabes

I picked up one of these at a local liquidation store for $25! http://www.ergotron.com/tabid/65/PRDID/126/Default.aspx I hit the jackpot.

Now the horrible flimsy stand from my 27qd is gone. It says it only supports 24" but it handles the 27" just fine. The range of movement is fantastic. Very smooth movement too. It's metal construction with plastic casing over top. The only thing is I had to put a spacer in between the mounting plate and the monitor because the provided screws were too long.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> You didn't get me there mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I m thinking of buying the crossover 27q led-p monitor from accessorieswhole,your awesome review has sort of convinced
> me to go with this monitor with accessorieswhole as the seller.I mailed him asking about the green pcb(which you recommended in your review) and the
> right adapter for my country.Did not get a response for about 24hrs.Just wanna ask you again whether green pcb monitor is the one to get and should i go
> with the pixel perfect version,its around $100 price premium over the non pixel perfect one.


Ah gotcha. Yea still ask for the Green PCB and just state what Country your in for the appropriate adapter.
As for the emails try there ebay email once more. Sometimes a email can get lost in the masses.
If you want it asap contact them here: [email protected]
Link the ebay listing you want and everything else including questions and stuff. They will be able to take care of you.
Hope that helps


----------



## silvinho21

Hi I got my monitor from AW like two days ago, its got 2 dead pixels, very hard to notice but i know they are there, I'm satisfied but I want to know if there is anything i can do to try to fix the dead pixels? Also I heard overlord computer is selling a 90hz+ pcb that works with all 1440p monitors, would getting one of these fix the dead pixels in my monitor?


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Hi I got my monitor from AW like two days ago, its got 2 dead pixels, very hard to notice but i know they are there, I'm satisfied but I want to know if there is anything i can do to try to fix the dead pixels? Also I heard overlord computer is selling a 90hz+ pcb that works with all 1440p monitors, would getting one of these fix the dead pixels in my monitor?


The overlord PCB doesn't fit inside the 27q chassis without modification apparently. I'm not sure about the 27qd/2720mdp (which share the same chassis).

If your pixels are stuck you may be able to fix them, but if they're dead then they're just dead. Stuck ones are typically red green or blue, dead ones are just black if you view them on a white screen .


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> Hi I got my monitor from AW like two days ago, its got 2 dead pixels, very hard to notice but i know they are there, I'm satisfied but I want to know if there is anything i can do to try to fix the dead pixels? Also I heard overlord computer is selling a 90hz+ pcb that works with all 1440p monitors, would getting one of these fix the dead pixels in my monitor?


Pixels are within the panel. The PCB's will do nothing on fixing your dead/stuck pixels. You can run some programs that basically run a pattern of different colors on your screen very fast. This usually helps to remove stuck pixels. Dead pixels are just dead, you can;t do much about it. Sometimes Dead/Stuck pixels suddenly work after a month or a year of use. It's just how the games played.


----------



## VanillaCena

Hey guys, I'm in the market for one of these and was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of a black/white version with multiple inputs. The amount of options on Ebay is a bit confusing.
Will having multiple inputs cause lag at native resolution?
Also, disregarding price, how would this compare to a Dell U2713HM?


----------



## Zaxis01

Just pulled the trigger on a CO 27Q LED PP Monitor on ebay from ta_planet.

Can anyone confirm the rep of this seller?

I ordered it around 12:00am.

When do you think i should expect it by?

Can't Wait !


----------



## timcee

So My Screen has arrived and so far I'm very happy! Resolution is amazing! It's 100% pixel perfect (from what i can tell so far).









I just tried downloading Cloudz00x's custom ICC and it wont download has anybody else had problems? I've tried chrome and explorer


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timcee*
> 
> So My Screen has arrived and so far I'm very happy! Resolution is amazing! It's 100% pixel perfect (from what i can tell so far).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just tried downloading Cloudz00x's custom ICC and it wont download has anybody else had problems? I've tried chrome and explorer


When you open the link, look below the "Download For Free" Button and uncheck "Use Download Accelerator".
Now you can click Download for free.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zaxis01*
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on a CO 27Q LED PP Monitor on ebay from ta_planet.
> 
> Can anyone confirm the rep of this seller?
> 
> I ordered it around 12:00am.
> 
> When do you think i should expect it by?
> 
> Can't Wait !


TaPlanet is ok. He is 4th on my recommendation list. Of course AW being first. You should be ok, just remember your not getting "A+" panel from TAPlanet as you would from AW. Less back light bleed and less defects. If you get the PP model then you just get a guarantee. Enjoy the new monitor either way! You should be getting it soon hopefully 2-3 business days from shipment if there's no custom issues.


----------



## Zaxis01

Thanks for the feedback Cloudz!

Anyone here strip the bezel on one of these bad boys yet?

If so can you post pics?

Would be interested in seeing how thin the display actually is for a surround setup.


----------



## timcee

Thanks Cloudz00x Sorry I must be being really dumb! I'm still trying to download color profile. For a start it says I've reached download limit. Does that mean anything? you never know with these things! The only file that I seem to be able to download is iLivid.exe and I'm guessing that isn't the color profile!?!? I can't seem to see what you describe I'm sure this is me being very thick! Thanks for any help


----------



## edpiv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> If you want it asap contact them here: [email protected]


This e-mail address of the accessorieswhole?
What you can say about lightnspace? He good seller?


----------



## Kentaro

Try refreshing the page, timcee, if that doesn't work try this [link]


----------



## timcee

Thanks Kentaro







That link worked. Just what i needed. Had my Monitor 24 hours now and still loving it







It's a seriously great purchase. Use AccessoriesWhole they are the best! I know from what I've read and now from my own personal experience! Quick delivery(UK) perfect pixel they do exactly as they say. I highly recommend going with them if you're going for a Korean screen.

Also thanks Cloudz00x ignore my earlier post I've got profile


----------



## Kentaro

No problem, kudos to Cloudz00x for the great review and profiles.

Ordered my 27QD from AW, looking forward to having all that real estate for photoshop work!


----------



## jerry1234

RE: Monitor Whine video....

Ouch! That noise would definitely be a deal killer for me! It sounds like whine out of a ferrite transformer in a DC-DC converter. If I had this unit, and there was no hope of getting
a fix from the seller/company/whatever, I would try some activated fiberglass resin, applied to the offending coil or transformer with an eyedropper. I would open up the monitor and run it
without the case - and look for the source of the whine with a hose in my ear. Also, I would try pressing on likely parts until I found one that made the sound go away.

Fiberglass resin is more liquid than epoxies, and should soak into the windings, and then set as hard as a rock. Before doing it, I'd warm the offending part with a hair dryer to help the
capillary action.

Hardworking semiconductors can also give off a whine, in which case you're pretty much screwed. But this is less common.

- Jerry1234


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edpiv*
> 
> This e-mail address of the accessorieswhole?
> What you can say about lightnspace? He good seller?


search lightnspace in this thread, some positive reviews but lots of negative.


----------



## jerry1234

Re: Amazon Vendors for 27Q

Hello,

I have $400 in credit at Amazon that's burning a hole in my pocket. I would really like one of those Crossfire 27Q monitors. There are multiple offers - they all charge a bit more than the cheapest Ebay vendors. Has anybody bought one of these through Amazon Marketplace? Any vendors there to avoid?

I'm thinking of paying the premium for a "pixel-perfect" one.... Just to lower the probability
of winding up with something that I have to box up and reship.

Also, I'm not sure if my video card will work. It's an ATI Radeon 5850. In the compatibility list
that many of these vendors quote, it's listed as NO. I'm not sure I understand why - it does have a pair of dual-link DVI connectors, and is supposed to support the required resolution.

If I have to buy a video card, that blows the value proposition. BTW, I'm not a gamer. I am a
part-time computer programmer, also do a teensy bit of graphics design in support of my business, and would LOVE more screen real estate. But could care less about refresh rate or lag.

I found at least one post somewhere, where somebody said that he uses an HD5850 with one of these Korean monitors, and it even displays the BIOS stuff.

- jerry1234


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerry1234*
> 
> Re: Amazon Vendors for 27Q
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have $400 in credit at Amazon that's burning a hole in my pocket. I would really like one of those Crossfire 27Q monitors. There
> are multiple offers - they all charge a bit more than the cheapest Ebay vendors. Has anybody bought one of these through Amazon
> Marketplace? Any vendors there to avoid?
> 
> - jerry1234


Click on my review on my sig and read it. Yes you can request the seller to sell through amazon marketplace. Some do it, most don't. Have to inquire to know.


----------



## Cloudz00x

Now for those who quite doubt the one day shipping that I had when I first ordered these monitors and was "New" to the community.
AccessoriesWhole (AW) pulled it off again. Had to send back 2 monitors and they triple, quadrupole checked and even sent pictures to make sure it was to my liking.
Well.. here it is again, proof of 1 day shipping.



Now if the Customer service, warranty, guarantees, "A+" panels and all the other crap doesn't entice you to get these monitors.
Maybe the tracking info will.
Estimation Delivery Feb 25th...
It's on the truck already for delivery the next day, Feb 21st. GG!

Now stop asking me who should you buy from people!'
AW all the way, and mention Cloudz00x sent ya for a lil extra discount. Not much but every penny counts right? I get nothing from this btw. Me and several other members just bought a good amount of monitors from him and are extremely pleased. So we try to spread the info as much as we can to aid you guys from not doing stupid mistakes and regretting a purchase. Descadent, myself, kaliptos and others are like volunteers for this crap. So with us spreading out the news and bringing more business, they decided to aid with a lil discount if mentioned. Plus my posts go up =p


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerry1234*
> 
> Re: Amazon Vendors for 27Q
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have $400 in credit at Amazon that's burning a hole in my pocket. I would really like one of those Crossfire 27Q monitors. There are multiple offers - they all charge a bit more than the cheapest Ebay vendors. Has anybody bought one of these through Amazon Marketplace? Any vendors there to avoid?
> 
> I'm thinking of paying the premium for a "pixel-perfect" one.... Just to lower the probability
> of winding up with something that I have to box up and reship.
> 
> Also, I'm not sure if my video card will work. It's an ATI Radeon 5850. In the compatibility list
> that many of these vendors quote, it's listed as NO. I'm not sure I understand why - it does have a pair of dual-link DVI connectors, and is supposed to support the required resolution.
> 
> If I have to buy a video card, that blows the value proposition. BTW, I'm not a gamer. I am a
> part-time computer programmer, also do a teensy bit of graphics design in support of my business, and would LOVE more screen real estate. But could care less about refresh rate or lag.
> 
> I found at least one post somewhere, where somebody said that he uses an HD5850 with one of these Korean monitors, and it even displays the BIOS stuff.
> 
> - jerry1234


Your 5850 will be just fine. I don't know where the post started about Bios not showing up. Everyone I've talked to and for myself, as long as the Monitor is plugged into the first gpu you get a post info, bios etc;
You'll be fine. Pull the trigger and enjoy.
P.S It's CrossOver not CrossFire. How dare you!


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Now for those who quite doubt the one day shipping that I had when I first ordered these monitors and was "New" to the community.
> AccessoriesWhole (AW) pulled it off again. Had to send back 2 monitors and they triple, quadrupole checked and even sent pictures to make sure it was to my liking.
> Well.. here it is again, proof of 1 day shipping.


Looks like my tracking, and this is to Canada.



It's basically like using Amazon 1-day shipping except its from Korea and included in the price


----------



## jerry1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> P.S It's CrossOver not CrossFire. How dare you!


*** OOPS. Little rummy this morning







.

- jerry1234


----------



## jerry1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Click on my review on my sig and read it. Yes you can request the seller to sell through amazon marketplace.


*** Do you have a direct email for accessorieswhole?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cloudz00x*
> 
> Some do it, most don't.


*** Reading about how Amazon treats their marketplace vendors, I'm not surprised.

- jerry1234


----------



## bleepjay

ok, I'm trying something new. Mac Mini 2012 with the Apple Mini Displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter. I've got it coming up, but it's shutting off every 5 seconds or so. This works in Windows 8 via bootcamp, so there is something with OS X that is causing this. I know that most people are from PC background, but I'm not sure if anybody has seen something like this before and could offer any suggestions.

There is also a small whine (which is a bit hard to hear in this video), and a shutoff noise whenever this shuts off and tries to turn back on.

I've swapped out adapters, DVI Cables, etc, but nothing seems to be keeping this thing on. I know it should be working although OSX does not like it for some reason. It could be due to display drivers but I'm thinking it may be something to do with invalid EDID data coming back from the monitor.

Can somebody with a 27Q (preferably a blade) run this program: http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm and send me back the output. I'm trying to see if my EDID has been flashed wrong or if this is a common case with these monitors. It seems like Windows isn't as picky with the EDID data, but OSX is.


----------



## rho86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerry1234*
> 
> RE: Monitor Whine video....
> 
> Ouch! That noise would definitely be a deal killer for me! It sounds like whine out of a ferrite transformer in a DC-DC converter. If I had this unit, and there was no hope of getting
> a fix from the seller/company/whatever, I would try some activated fiberglass resin, applied to the offending coil or transformer with an eyedropper. I would open up the monitor and run it
> without the case - and look for the source of the whine with a hose in my ear. Also, I would try pressing on likely parts until I found one that made the sound go away.
> 
> Fiberglass resin is more liquid than epoxies, and should soak into the windings, and then set as hard as a rock. Before doing it, I'd warm the offending part with a hair dryer to help the
> capillary action.
> 
> Hardworking semiconductors can also give off a whine, in which case you're pretty much screwed. But this is less common.
> 
> - Jerry1234


Thanks for the advice! I'm working with the seller first before attempting anything.


----------



## rho86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleepjay*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ok, I'm trying something new. Mac Mini 2012 with the Apple Mini Displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter. I've got it coming up, but it's shutting off every 5 seconds or so. This works in Windows 8 via bootcamp, so there is something with OS X that is causing this. I know that most people are from PC background, but I'm not sure if anybody has seen something like this before and could offer any suggestions.
> 
> There is also a small whine (which is a bit hard to hear in this video), and a shutoff noise whenever this shuts off and tries to turn back on.
> 
> I've swapped out adapters, DVI Cables, etc, but nothing seems to be keeping this thing on. I know it should be working although OSX does not like it for some reason. It could be due to display drivers but I'm thinking it may be something to do with invalid EDID data coming back from the monitor.
> 
> Can somebody with a 27Q (preferably a blade) run this program: http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm and send me back the output. I'm trying to see if my EDID has been flashed wrong or if this is a common case with these monitors. It seems like Windows isn't as picky with the EDID data, but OSX is.


I've had problems with OSX incorrectly reading EDID data from another monitor, as well as my TV. It seems OS X is far more finicky than Windows.

Mabye you can try forcing a custom screen resolution using various guides on YouTube. Here is one:


----------



## jerry1234

Replacement boards?
Hello,

One of the things that worries me about buying one of these is : what happens 2 or 3 years down the road if it dies? I'm sure I'm not the only one who worries about such things. Most people seem to have good luck with them, but I see the following
occasional issues:

* Monitor died completely
* Big band of flashing green pixels
* Monitor whines
* Power brick whines
* Power brick makes a clicking sound
* Monitor won't stay on.
.....etc.....

Now, I used to be a bench tech. That is, I fixed electronics for a living. I am reasonably confident that I can take care of
most things if I have the following 2 things:
1. Info ( schematics, parts lists, etc )
2. Access to spare parts

For grey market Korean stuff, I don't expect to ever have access to #1. What about #2?

Here's an ebay listing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Video-driver-board-repairing-backlight-Crossover-27Q-monitor-and-etc-/111016273461?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14294%26meid%3D5772922325718900974%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1095%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D111004092960%26

Now THAT's interesting. The LED driver board is probably the hardest working board in the monitor - that is, it handles
real power. Experience shows me that the higher the power, the more failures.

It's interesting also that the listing is in Russia. I've been there. I've been to the Moscow radio flea market. In Russia, they
fix things. Things that we would throw away. It's a tradition from communist times, when "things" were more valuable than "money".

A few years ago, I had a (IIRC) Viewsonic monitor that would turn itself off. I traced it to a transformer with an arcing coil in the backlight driver. "Traced" is actually an exaggeration - I just looked at the board and saw the burned spot. This monitor was
quite fixable with a new coil. I read the part number off the coil, and searched high and low. Found it on a Russian website
that unfortunately only dealt locally. I sent them an email in Russian - no answer. Then I found another Russian website
with instructions on how to rewind that exact coil. Wire size, how many turns etc. So I still could have fixed it.

Unfortunately, in the meantime we had to move, and there was just no time to deal with it, and it went to the recycler.

Maybe I should buy two of these things, enjoy dual-giant-monitor bliss, and know that if one dies, I have the other one
as a spare parts source and example ( of one that works ). With an example like that, one can often fix things without having
schematics. Been there, done that...

- jerry1234


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerry1234*
> 
> worries about monitor


Then it's dead. Alas. That is the risk you take in buying these monitors.

If you want support and worry-free operation, buy a Dell U2713hm. Sure, it costs more, but peace of mind (and 3 year premium advanced replacement warranties with guaranteed phone support) is like that.


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rho86*
> 
> I've had problems with OSX incorrectly reading EDID data from another monitor, as well as my TV. It seems OS X is far more finicky than Windows.
> 
> Mabye you can try forcing a custom screen resolution using various guides on YouTube. Here is one:


I've got switchresx installed and tried some custom resolutions to work, but it still produces this outcome. Does anybody have any ideas on some resolutions/timings to try. I tried 2560x1440 at 40Hz and that didn't work either.

I'm about to give up on this monitor, so if there is anybody out there looking for one, let me know. I don't think I'll be able to return this to AccessoriesWhole without losing shipping $


----------



## Descadent

solution: pc










in all fairness it's the same indentical monitor apple uses, you shouldn't be having issues. feel like it's something wrong within your installation of osx. especially if it works in windows, but yet again when it comes to anything mac...i have no clue as most people on this forum wouldn't.


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bleepjay*
> 
> Can somebody with a 27Q (preferably a blade) run this program: http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm and send me back the output. I'm trying to see if my EDID has been flashed wrong or if this is a common case with these monitors. It seems like Windows isn't as picky with the EDID data, but OSX is.


Code:



Code:


Monitor
  Model name............... LCD QHD 1
  Manufacturer............. VMO
  Plug and Play ID......... VMO1091
  Serial number............ 110503_3
  Manufacture date......... 2011, ISO week 18
  Filter driver............ None
  -------------------------
  EDID revision............ 1.3
  Input signal type........ Digital
  Color bit depth.......... Undefined
  Display type............. RGB color
  Screen size.............. 600 x 340 mm (27.2 in)
  Power management......... Active off/sleep
  Extension blocs.......... None
  -------------------------
  DDC/CI................... Not supported

Color characteristics
  Default color space...... Non-sRGB
  Display gamma............ 2.20
  Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.653 - Ry 0.334
  Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.300 - Gy 0.620
  Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.146 - By 0.050
  White point (default).... Wx 0.313 - Wy 0.329
  Additional descriptors... None

Timing characteristics
  Range limits............. Not available
  GTF standard............. Not supported
  Additional descriptors... None
  Preferred timing......... Yes
  Native/preferred timing.. 2560x1440p at 60Hz (16:9)
    Modeline............... "2560x1440" 241.500 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 +hsync -vsync

Standard timings supported

Report information
  Date generated........... 2/22/2013
  Software revision........ 2.60.0.972
  Data source.............. Real-time 0x0100
  Operating system......... 6.1.7601.2.Service Pack 1

That's my 27qd.

This little app also had info from previous monitors I had hooked up. I noticed they have a lot more data than the 27qd. i.e. the supported refresh rates.

I'm pretty sure it's generally known these displays don't play well with macs. The ones with displayport (2720md) might?

Also, the monitor whining....are you sure its the monitor and not the power brick? Worth checking.
Quote:


> in all fairness it's the same indentical monitor apple uses, you shouldn't be having issues. feel like it's something wrong within your installation of osx. especially if it works in windows, but yet again when it comes to anything mac...i have no clue as most people on this forum wouldn't.


Same panel as Apple Display but that's where the similarities end. The EDID is incredibly bare compared to other monitors I've used. Windows doesn't give a ****







but OSX seems to care.


----------



## bleepjay

@Kabes - thanks for running that for me. Everything seems to match up except for 'Input Signal Type', although that may be due to the fact that I'm using a mini displayport to dual link dvi adapter. My 'Input Signal Type' is 'Not Defined'

Another difference that I noticed between this and my Apple Thunderbolt display is the 'Color Bit Depth'. the 27qd comes back as 'undefined' and the thunderbolt display shows '10 bits per primary color'

I'm not sure if this may be the trigger, but like the video shows, it comes on for few seconds and then turns off. It's like it's losing the signal or something. I wasn't sure if somebody else has seen the same thing on a PC and has figured out a solution. My gut is that it is a Mac Driver issue for the graphics card. I called them yesterday and after a lot of troubleshooting, they basically went on to tell me it is an issue with the display (which I figured they would say).

@Descendant - I actually have to use PC most of the time, but my job forces me to use Mac as well (software/web developer) so that's why I need a Mac, so I can use both. As for the installation of osx, it's a fresh install, I just got the Mini. I'm using another Thunderbolt display, which I love, but after seeing these monitors, I didn't want to fork out the extra $500 for another one (although all the time I spent on this I probably should have just bought another)

Again, if anybody has any ideas, they are greatly appreciated, and if not, this monitor is probably going on ebay unless anybody can find a use for it (checked out pixels in bootcamp, and it looked perfect)


----------



## Descadent

tell your job you can software develop and do web base development on a pc just as good









thankfully I work for a software company that sells to U.S. manufacturing industry were macs are hated and also useless! for people who are in design and stuff though, works great I guess.

don't get me wrong, people LOVE their macs, but you are gonna pay since they have 600% markup on everything. I'm just happy I use the same panels they use cause crossovers are awesome.


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> tell your job you can software develop and do web base development on a pc just as good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thankfully I work for a software company that sells to U.S. manufacturing industry were macs are hated and also useless! for people who are in design and stuff though, works great I guess.
> 
> don't get me wrong, people LOVE their macs, but you are gonna pay since they have 600% markup on everything. I'm just happy I use the same panels they use cause crossovers are awesome.


Well, I work for myself so it would be easy to, but the problem is that I do get work that forces me to work on a Mac (iPhone development). That's why, instead of having two computers, I can do both with one.

It just bugs me that it's not working.


----------



## bleepjay

Another thing to throw out there:

This Mac Mini (Intel HD 4000) shows 768MB of VRAM, but under Bootcamp, it shows 2025MB (shared memory). Would the 'lack' of memory cause the shutting off and on symptoms?


----------



## Harry604

just ordered one of these

I got a samsung 950d 120hz i like the glossy screen so im hoping this looks just as good

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033


----------



## Zaxis01

Just received mine today and have am looking at it as i type, I am so relieved to say... this monitor is flawless. No dead or stuck pixels... No backlight bleeding... And setting it up was effortless. Well.... not all of it was. I had to squeeze my hand between the monitor and the base to connect the adapter and dvi.

But I digress...


----------



## Harry604

did u have to get green pcb and tell him which power adapter u needed


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerry1234*
> 
> Replacement boards?
> Hello,
> 
> One of the things that worries me about buying one of these is : what happens 2 or 3 years down the road if it dies? I'm sure I'm not the only one who worries about such things. Most people seem to have good luck with them, but I see the following
> occasional issues:
> 
> * Monitor died completely
> * Big band of flashing green pixels
> * Monitor whines
> * Power brick whines
> * Power brick makes a clicking sound
> * Monitor won't stay on.
> .....etc.....
> 
> Now, I used to be a bench tech. That is, I fixed electronics for a living. I am reasonably confident that I can take care of
> most things if I have the following 2 things:
> 1. Info ( schematics, parts lists, etc )
> 2. Access to spare parts
> 
> For grey market Korean stuff, I don't expect to ever have access to #1. What about #2?
> 
> Here's an ebay listing:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Video-driver-board-repairing-backlight-Crossover-27Q-monitor-and-etc-/111016273461?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14294%26meid%3D5772922325718900974%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1095%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D111004092960%26
> 
> Now THAT's interesting. The LED driver board is probably the hardest working board in the monitor - that is, it handles
> real power. Experience shows me that the higher the power, the more failures.
> 
> It's interesting also that the listing is in Russia. I've been there. I've been to the Moscow radio flea market. In Russia, they
> fix things. Things that we would throw away. It's a tradition from communist times, when "things" were more valuable than "money".
> 
> A few years ago, I had a (IIRC) Viewsonic monitor that would turn itself off. I traced it to a transformer with an arcing coil in the backlight driver. "Traced" is actually an exaggeration - I just looked at the board and saw the burned spot. This monitor was
> quite fixable with a new coil. I read the part number off the coil, and searched high and low. Found it on a Russian website
> that unfortunately only dealt locally. I sent them an email in Russian - no answer. Then I found another Russian website
> with instructions on how to rewind that exact coil. Wire size, how many turns etc. So I still could have fixed it.
> 
> Unfortunately, in the meantime we had to move, and there was just no time to deal with it, and it went to the recycler.
> 
> Maybe I should buy two of these things, enjoy dual-giant-monitor bliss, and know that if one dies, I have the other one
> as a spare parts source and example ( of one that works ). With an example like that, one can often fix things without having
> schematics. Been there, done that...
> 
> - jerry1234


Its like anything you buy. IF you bought a regular monitor from Sasmung you get a 2 year warranty. IF it breaks down after the 2 years its over with and your done. You don't get to buy seperate parts nor do you get to fix it unless your capable of doing so.
There's really no difference from them and these monitors. Your given the 1 year warranty via seller in case something does happen. Quite honestly if something happens within the first year something was wrong. IF it passes the 1 year mark your basically good to go.
All things are replaceable if given the research.

Example:
The PCB on eBay that's being sold in Russia. If I remember correctly the guy bought the monitors and extra PCB's. Sent the monitor back and had just kept PCB's. He's now trying to sell them. He posted on this thread awhile back so you gotta go back a good amount of pages.
Could be wrong but that's what I remember cause he posted the exact link and I complained saying why pay that when you can get it free from your seller.
You also now have the complete PCB set from Overlord Computer's.

So there's plenty of options to do some internal fixing. Which isn't really applicable for other monitors unless you know exactly what part it is and where to get it.


----------



## jerry1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Then it's dead. Alas. That is the risk you take in buying these monitors.


*** My point is that it ain't necessarily so. Especially if you plan ahead.
Still, that Dell monitor is not a bad deal. I was looking for a welder a few years ago. I considered a Chinese machine. Kind of like these monitors - very cheap, a lot of capability for the price. But no support, no schematics, no parts. If it dies out of warranty, you are SOL. I wound up buying Miller TIG and MIG machines for that exact reason.
For a monitor that has support for multiple inputs, the Dell is almost competitive in price. Thanks for pointing it out.

- Jerry


----------



## PR-Imagery

I wouldn't say that. A quick google search for a part number or the monitor will probably bring up parts or somebody selling dead monitors for parts.

When my 30" Samsung 305t+ started going, simple search for the cause of the problem and quick tear down showwed it just needed a new lcd controller board. 5min ebay search and $300 later monitor is like new again.

Most things you are bound to find parts for unless its some really obscure item.


----------



## tcool93

Sorry but the Korean monitors are NOT the same as the name brand monitors. There is more to a monitor than the panel. Most of the name brands come with good 3 year warranties for a reason, they use better parts. Actually you get an extra 4th year warranty with most credit cards. Plus they have buttons and onscreen menus that actually work, along with better stands.


----------



## Spartan F8

I do see a lot of comments stating these monitors are different from brand monitors in terms of quality. I can really say the warranty is truly a bit short but even some name brand monitor do only have a 1 year warranty unless a longer one is purchased (which in some cases can be done here too). I would point out that from the last comment that "better parts" is very subjective. I have owned quite a few name brand monitors in my line of work and can really say that all brands have there equal set of downfalls (with varied degrees). For example i have always had a bit of problem with light bleed on asus monitors and stand issues with LG. It is really a toss up from monitor to monitor and brand to brand. To isolate these Korean monitors out from that overall truth is a bit folly. To further this, at my house and at my office including my agents monitors i have first hand experience of 14 dell monitors, 5 asus monitors, 11 hanns, and 3 LGs. Just about all the dell monitors have and developed a dead pixel over time or at purchase (i just tested them all yesterday for this sort of review). The Asus monitors ALL have backlight bleed. The LGs have less to be desired stands and really the Hanns have various issues with colors. This is a bit subjective as they are in an office environment and a lot of them have had quite a bit of movement/abuse.

The point is that there are a few tradeoffs to getting these monitors but they are not be any "default" a lower quality or class and remain the best monitor i have seen next to the thunderbolt display (which i have a friend convinced to side by side compare in a couple days








can't wait)

I am hoping this doesn't rough anyones feathers but at 1/3 the price of the thunderbolt it is still the best deal out there by far if you do your research and buy from a reputable seller.

On a side note for anyone that gets the blade edition crossover debezeling was not quite a success due to the size of the bottom of the panel being wider than the rest. It may still be beneficial for those in landscape but i am a bit of a portrait guy.


----------



## LHGhost

I've been reading through this thread, and I've decided to pick one of these up. There is just one thing that needs to be decided... the seller.

acessorieswhole or dream-seller? I'm going for the 27Q LED-P


----------



## Descadent

AW for the 100millionth time


----------



## LHGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> AW for the 100millionth time


Haha, I was leaning towards this after reading so many good things about them.

I did it! I'll post how it goes when it arrives


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LHGhost*
> 
> Haha, I was leaning towards this after reading so many good things about them.
> 
> I did it! I'll post how it goes when it arrives


be prepared for


----------



## Vitoriung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Pictures of my 27Q I got 2 days ago for $397 from AW on ebay. Probably going to sell it if I can get $300 shipped. I can't get used to the tiny dot pitch when I've been using a 1080p 27" for something like 2 years now. Makes my eyes hurt trying to squint to read text on this monitor. The picture with firefox is where I have text enlarged already in the main window, and the address bar up top is unscaled and is the size text usually is. It has perfect backlight uniformity with 0 bleed and 0 dead pixels. The 2nd picture where the wallpaper doesn't go all the way to the edge and all you see is the black border is exactly how dark it looks in real life.


You have deleted your post from my thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1354888/crossover-2730-light-leak-would-you-complain where you offered your monitor for mine faulty. Sorry I did not get back to you, but I was waiting until my case is resolved and I guess you have got rid off your monitor already.

I must say I was lucky in the end, because my massive light leak issue allowed me to return my monitor and get a full refund. I did not like the monitor from the same reason as you. Everything is just too tiny on this screen for me. I think resolution such as 2560x1440 is high enough only for screens from sizes from 30" if not 32", talking for myself, because I had to really increase all DPI and font sizes so I can read without my eyes hurting.
The screen quality is stunning, however weirdly enough I get more service from my older dual monitors 19" (1440x900) + 17" (1280x1024) because they provide me actually more desktop size while they occupy almost the same space on my desk as huge 27", not mentioning the comfort having applications in fullscreen while having more stuff displayed on another monitor, but I compare that just because I was naive to think that one big monitor will fully replace 2 smaller. I will be still looking to replace my 17" with some new monitor, but I think I overshooted it with size 27", now will go for max 24" and still will check whether 1080p provides me big enough fonts so I can work with the monitor without further system adjustments.


----------



## Pandasaurus

Hi, I've had my Crossover 27Q LED-P for over 5 months and had no issues until now, the screen dies completely after 2 minutes of on time. Does anyone know a fix or can direct me to a post on how to fix this?


----------



## Descadent

you need to explain more than just dieing before we can give tips, but as always....check connections first. check power supply. try other cables. etc.


----------



## a1qwyx20

Hey guys,

I need some serious help. My crossover started having diming on the left side, took it apart and the bottom left connector like here is broken....

http://s251.beta.photobucket.com/user/Kaos2K/media/Tutoriales/iMac%2027%20Late%202009%20dark%20screen%20dimming%20fix/IMG_3933.jpg.html

My friend tried to fix it and raped the part with soldering iron. I need a new part and a new connector that goes in that place. And a new black cable like here

http://s251.beta.photobucket.com/user/Kaos2K/media/Tutoriales/iMac%2027%20Late%202009%20dark%20screen%20dimming%20fix/IMG_3943.jpg.html

Where can I get a new LED lighting strip to go on the bottom of the monitor and also a new black clip cable that connects the PCB to the LED lights?

heres the part http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/halfsize.jpg/

Thanks guys!!!


----------



## Descadent

what a mess. contact your seller. you may have finished ruining it but worth a shot so contact seller.


----------



## yarrh

For those of you who returned a monitor to AW, what method of shipment did you use?

I'm trying to send back the extra LED-P that I received under AW's FedEx account by following his instructions (filling out a single sheet of International Air Waybill), but it appears that FedEx is sending it back to me.

My local FedEx shipment center is telling me that AW needs to email me a multi-page PDF commercial shipping label to use, but AW is insisting that it is unnecessary.

*EDIT*

nevermind. I will try to ship it back again. Thanks Cloudz00x


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> For those of you who returned a monitor to AW, what method of shipment did you use?
> 
> I'm trying to send back the extra LED-P that I received under AW's FedEx account by following his instructions (filling out a single sheet of International Air Waybill), but it appears that FedEx is sending it back to me.
> 
> My local FedEx shipment center is telling me that AW needs to email me a multi-page PDF commercial shipping label to use, but AW is insisting that it is unnecessary.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> I have a brand new 27Q LED-P from AW for sale for $300. I never opened the packaging so everything is how it was when it arrived at my doorsteps a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> It is an extra that AW sent me by accident but he said that I can keep it for $300. I am not profiting from this.
> 
> One caveat though--If you buy it, I will not be liable for any dead pixel/quality issues and you would have to take it up with AW (up to him if he chooses to give support)
> 
> You can also check out my LED-P, if you want to see one in person first. I am in Brooklyn, NY


Sent PM with info and pictures on how to send it back to AW. Just copy what I sent you.


----------



## cooler2442

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> For those of you who returned a monitor to AW, what method of shipment did you use?
> 
> I'm trying to send back the extra LED-P that I received under AW's FedEx account by following his instructions (filling out a single sheet of International Air Waybill), but it appears that FedEx is sending it back to me.
> 
> My local FedEx shipment center is telling me that AW needs to email me a multi-page PDF commercial shipping label to use, but AW is insisting that it is unnecessary.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> I have a brand new 27Q LED-P from AW for sale for $300. I never opened the packaging so everything is how it was when it arrived at my doorsteps a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> It is an extra that AW sent me by accident but he said that I can keep it for $300. I am not profiting from this.
> 
> One caveat though--If you buy it, I will not be liable for any dead pixel/quality issues and you would have to take it up with AW (up to him if he chooses to give support)
> 
> You can also check out my LED-P, if you want to see one in person first. I am in Brooklyn, NY


To bad you're not in SoCal I'd probably take you up on the offer.


----------



## mullum

Oh dear, here we go ...

Bought a 27Q LED+ Tempered Glass from redcap (red-cap - ebay). It developed a fault (mangled/garbled text on screen).

Tested on various graphics cards/cables/windows/osx - same result. Its faulty.

They'll have it back, if I pay to ship it to Korea. They'll fix it, not replace it.

This fault may be rare, but it has meant that I've been without a usable monitor for a long time.


----------



## Descadent

that sucks, the negative things about red-cap just keep adding up though throughout the thread.

goodluck with them.


----------



## zorkmon

Looking to get two crossover monitors, want the ones that have stands that allow vertical height adjustment - 27Q-LED or 27Q LED-P, or 27M LED or 2720MDP GOLD LED ? not sure which one has that feature exactly ?

Also can anybody recommend a good ebay seller who tests, for quality before shipping, and has good ratings on experience ?
Also what is a good price to pay for x 2 of them including shipping ?
Looking at ebay there is so many of them and alot to filter etc..

I have a gtx 670 4g sc looking to to run both of them..at ultra res for video editing..using camstasia.recorder/studio .etc..

Also I live in BC, Canada will I have to pay custom/import fees and if so how much does anybody know from experience ?

THanks.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorkmon*
> 
> Looking to get two crossover monitors, want the ones that have stands that allow vertical height adjustment - 27Q-LED or 27Q LED-P, or 27M LED or 2720MDP GOLD LED ? not sure which one has that feature exactly ?
> 
> Also can anybody recommend a good ebay seller who tests, for quality before shipping, and has good ratings on experience ?
> Also what is a good price to pay for x 2 of them including shipping ?
> Looking at ebay there is so many of them and alot to filter etc..
> 
> I have a gtx 670 4g sc looking to to run both of them..at ultra res for video editing..using camstasia.recorder/studio .etc..
> 
> THanks.


This guy seems to have one thats OCable so he says. I don't really understand all this 27Q-LED or 27Q LED-P, or 27M LED or 2720MDP BS, I just want a monitor that overclocks and with no pixel issues.

Can someone let me know what they think about this monitor, I'm about to pull the trigger.....I just want someone's thoughts on this particular panel

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111016198626


----------



## zorkmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorkmon*
> 
> Looking to get two crossover monitors, want the ones that have stands that allow vertical height adjustment - 27Q-LED or 27Q LED-P, or 27M LED or 2720MDP GOLD LED ? not sure which one has that feature exactly ?
> 
> Also can anybody recommend a good ebay seller who tests, for quality before shipping, and has good ratings on experience ?
> Also what is a good price to pay for x 2 of them including shipping ?
> Looking at ebay there is so many of them and alot to filter etc..
> 
> I have a gtx 670 4g sc looking to to run both of them..at ultra res for video editing..using camstasia.recorder/studio .etc..
> 
> Also I live in BC, Canada will I have to pay custom/import fees and if so how much does anybody know from experience ?
> 
> THanks.


I think this is the model[has vertical height adjustment] I want and sellers terms and conditions looks ok - I messaged him for bst price says he can only go 3% under this price listed.
still $900 for two monitors.. that may have 3 or less dead or stuck pixels..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130785741361&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

still seems alot and high risk when I can get two asus high res in canada from $599 each with asus warranty...


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorkmon*
> 
> Looking to get two crossover monitors, want the ones that have stands that allow vertical height adjustment - 27Q-LED or 27Q LED-P, or 27M LED or 2720MDP GOLD LED ? not sure which one has that feature exactly ?
> 
> Also can anybody recommend a good ebay seller who tests, for quality before shipping, and has good ratings on experience ?
> Also what is a good price to pay for x 2 of them including shipping ?
> Looking at ebay there is so many of them and alot to filter etc..
> 
> I have a gtx 670 4g sc looking to to run both of them..at ultra res for video editing..using camstasia.recorder/studio .etc..
> 
> Also I live in BC, Canada will I have to pay custom/import fees and if so how much does anybody know from experience ?
> 
> THanks.


did you not read the OP. or even last couple of pages? please. everything you need to know about the models is in the first post. and every single page we have to tell people to use the search feature. in regards to sellers. if you have read/searched the thread you would know it comes down to about 2 sellers that are the best, Accessorieswhole and dreamseller. AW just about wiping the floor with the other sellers.

please help us out so we don't sound like a broken record. we have to say this over and over every page just about.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorkmon*
> 
> I think this is the model[has vertical height adjustment] I want and sellers terms and conditions looks ok - I messaged him for bst price says he can only go 3% under this price listed.
> still $900 for two monitors.. that may have 3 or less dead or stuck pixels..
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130785741361&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
> 
> still seems alot and high risk when I can get two asus high res in canada from $599 each with asus warranty...


again please search the thread. we have talked about overclockable monitors. it isn't a true overclock it uses frame skipping. if you feel like a warranty or asus' warranty is worth a flip go for it. you can always buy square trade with crossovers. I got all 3 of my crossovers for $950....well below price of two asus.

as we have said in thread 100x. you can get dead pixels regardless if it is asus,hp, dell, apple etc. it is no guarantee and manufacturers are protected by law that the panels don't have to flawless. that being said your chances of getting ZERO dead pixels from AW is extremely, extremely high because they only sell A quality panels and have a good policy in regards to dead pixels

everything you need to know about crossovers has already been said. please search and read thanks.


----------



## Harry604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorkmon*
> 
> Looking to get two crossover monitors, want the ones that have stands that allow vertical height adjustment - 27Q-LED or 27Q LED-P, or 27M LED or 2720MDP GOLD LED ? not sure which one has that feature exactly ?
> 
> Also can anybody recommend a good ebay seller who tests, for quality before shipping, and has good ratings on experience ?
> Also what is a good price to pay for x 2 of them including shipping ?
> Looking at ebay there is so many of them and alot to filter etc..
> 
> I have a gtx 670 4g sc looking to to run both of them..at ultra res for video editing..using camstasia.recorder/studio .etc..
> 
> Also I live in BC, Canada will I have to pay custom/import fees and if so how much does anybody know from experience ?
> 
> THanks.


hey im from vancouver bc

i just ordered mine should be here tomorrow

u want the 27q led-p for adjustment


----------



## shunfu

I just ordered a 27Q from red-cap. I have a question about the power brick. I got this response from the seller.

"We serve the free-volt adapter. You need to get a plug converter though. because of the plug is for 2 round pin from Korea. It is easy to get."

I assume this means the power brick is ok for USA use? Can I just use a spare 3 prong power cord from a PSU?

Thanks.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shunfu*
> 
> I just ordered a 27Q from red-cap. I have a question about the power brick. I got this response from the seller.
> 
> "We serve the free-volt adapter. You need to get a plug converter though. because of the plug is for 2 round pin from Korea. It is easy to get."
> 
> I assume this means the power brick is ok for USA use? Can I just use a spare 3 prong power cord from a PSU?
> 
> Thanks.


oh red cap... and yes you can.


----------



## Zaxis01

Here is my Crossover 27q.

So far it looks and functions flawlessly.

I calibrated the colors and dropped the brightness and now it looks amazing!


----------



## ducktape

Just recieved my 27q today and compared it to my asus 

Also did a quick backlight bleed test and have some lights bleeding near the bottom and outside the bezel...





Also experiencing some yellowish tint at the bottom


----------



## ne999

I purchased a Crossover 27QD Blade from AccessoriesWhole. It arrived in Richmond, BC, Canada 41 hours after purchasing it. When I plugged it in it was working great for about 30 minutes and then blanked out. When I try turning it on The screen flashes on and off. The monitor LED switches from blue to red as well. I can hear a slight clicking sound from the screen when it cycles but that's probably the speakers or something.

The power brick's LED stays at a constant green.

I've sent a message to AW via eBay. Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be?


----------



## Zaxis01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ne999*
> 
> I purchased a Crossover 27QD Blade from AccessoriesWhole. It arrived in Richmond, BC, Canada 41 hours after purchasing it. When I plugged it in it was working great for about 30 minutes and then blanked out. When I try turning it on The screen flashes on and off. The monitor LED switches from blue to red as well. I can hear a slight clicking sound from the screen when it cycles but that's probably the speakers or something.
> 
> The power brick's LED stays at a constant green.
> 
> I've sent a message to AW via eBay. Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be?


Try checking the adapter to see if it's warm for power consistency.

Is your dvi cable plugged in properly?

What video card are you using?

The clicking sound might be a short in the main board.

Have you removed the paneling to see if there's something blown?


----------



## jgozalo

Hello,
I just bought this monitor.

Sorry if this has been posted before but I was wondering if it can connect this monitor to the Play3 or the Xbox 360.
My old monitor is an Sansung 2233rz that only has dual dvi conector, but I bought an adaptor from HDMI to dual dvi and I connect the play3 and Xbox360 using their HDMI cable to the adapter and then to my old monitor.
Can I do the same thing with this monitor?
Also, what is the best color profile for this monitor?
IT will arrive tomorrow, Im so anxious....I should notice quite a lot of difference from my old Sansung right??


----------



## zorkmon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harry604*
> 
> hey im from vancouver bc
> 
> i just ordered mine should be here tomorrow
> 
> u want the 27q led-p for adjustment


cheers - let me know if all is good with the quality etc..and if any customs/duties additional fees are required..

if you dont mind how much did you pay and which ebay seller did you get it form accessorieswhole or deramseller or other ?


----------



## Harry604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorkmon*
> 
> cheers - let me know if all is good with the quality etc..and if any customs/duties additional fees are required..
> 
> if you dont mind how much did you pay and which ebay seller did you get it form accessorieswhole or deramseller or other ?


ya ill let u know says its on truck for delivery only took 2 days to get here

i bought from accessories whole for 389


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jgozalo*
> 
> Hello,
> I just bought this monitor.
> 
> Sorry if this has been posted before but I was wondering if it can connect this monitor to the Play3 or the Xbox 360.
> My old monitor is an Sansung 2233rz that only has dual dvi conector, but I bought an adaptor from HDMI to dual dvi and I connect the play3 and Xbox360 using their HDMI cable to the adapter and then to my old monitor.
> Can I do the same thing with this monitor?
> Also, what is the best color profile for this monitor?
> IT will arrive tomorrow, Im so anxious....I should notice quite a lot of difference from my old Sansung right??


please search the thread! it is all in here!









but no. monitor requires dl-dvi which ps3 and 360 cannot do. and no hdmi to dvi adapter works. although some say it might if you set the xbox/ps3 to 720p before hooking up the monitor. but it will only play in 720p on a 1440p monitor...eww.

cloud has linked the color profile numerous times. even within last 5 pages.


----------



## cooler2442

Wish AW would put his prices more in line with the other sellers like Red Cap. There's a $30+ difference atm between them.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> Wish AW would put his prices more in line with the other sellers like Red Cap. There's a $30+ difference atm between them.


because aw has a better policy only sells A panels and less than 3 dead pixels where as redcap sells A- and has a worse pixel policy

not to mention how AW destroys redcap in customer service, troubleshooting, and returns. Plus provides 1 year warranty.

aw is a ebay rated top seller, redcap isn't


----------



## a1qwyx20

Ok guys another question...

Does anyone know the pin layout for this pic : http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/myboardproblemleft.jpg/

On my moniter, on the right side that works, its plugged into the pin from the left side of the above. So its white, black x5, then the other 6 pins coming from the LED strip I dont know what order they go in...does anyone have a PDF or a pic of their monitor open for a crossover 27q (this thread) for the Hq-led28-1a1 driver board?

I saw this PDF online but I cant see which pins are which on the PCB. I just know there are 12 pins in some order, and that a white one is on the left side, which drives the right side of the screen LEDs....

http://wenku.baidu.com/view/e49d3c2baaea998fcc220e4f.html

Thanks and appreciated,


----------



## Harry604

got my monitor all setup

going from sa950d to this i like it

no dead pixels no problems whatsoever

crysis 3 maxed out with 2 gtx 580 lightning extreme i hit 2.8gb vram good thing i have 3gb models

had to pay 35$ when fed ex came hst bs


----------



## LHGhost

Just got my monitor in the mail today... but I can't get it to connect. Not sure if I'm doing anything wrong.
The monitor just blinks on for a second and then goes to what seems to be sleep mode (orange LED). Running it with a 6870


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ne999*
> 
> I purchased a Crossover 27QD Blade from AccessoriesWhole. It arrived in Richmond, BC, Canada 41 hours after purchasing it. When I plugged it in it was working great for about 30 minutes and then blanked out. When I try turning it on The screen flashes on and off. The monitor LED switches from blue to red as well. I can hear a slight clicking sound from the screen when it cycles but that's probably the speakers or something.
> 
> The power brick's LED stays at a constant green.
> 
> I've sent a message to AW via eBay. Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be?


Does it look something like this?




I'm having the same issue, but on a Mac Mini. What graphics card are you using?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LHGhost*
> 
> Just got my monitor in the mail today... but I can't get it to connect. Not sure if I'm doing anything wrong.
> The monitor just blinks on for a second and then goes to what seems to be sleep mode (orange LED). Running it with a 6870


make sure you got the cable in a dl-dvi slot. on the card. never seen orange led before. only blue (on) red (standby)


----------



## LHGhost

Nevermind, fixed the problem. I just switched the power cable and reset my computer and voila, perfect









The monitor is awesome! Only one dead pixel, and I really can't even notice it unless I look for it. Looks like AW was the correct choice


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LHGhost*
> 
> Nevermind, fixed the problem. I just switched the power cable and reset my computer and voila, perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The monitor is awesome! Only one dead pixel, and I really can't even notice it unless I look for it. Looks like AW was the correct choice


try gently massaging that pixel. may go away


----------



## Harry604

Im very happy with mine.... not one dead pixel, I been trying to find one.

took a few days to get use to 60hz again....


----------



## messyp

Hi guys really want to pull the trigger on a Crossover Gold but need some help from anyone who has tried one with a macbook Pro

I have trawled through the forum but can't seem to find a definitive answer to my query...

Will a macbook pro 15inch (NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M with 512MB of GDDR5 memory) connect to the Gold version of the CrossOver Montitor (2720MDP) via displayport (not dual link DVI) at full resolution?

This monitor has a displayport input so in theory all i would need is a mini display port to display port cable (cheap) not the expensive ($99) dual link to DVI cable.

And if i can indeed get a signal, will it be full resultion of 2560x1440 (or else this is pointless and i might as well get a regular crossover with the expensive mac cable)

Anyone got the Gold working full res with a MBP? Any help please!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *messyp*
> 
> Hi guys really want to pull the trigger on a Crossover Gold but need some help from anyone who has tried one with a macbook Pro
> 
> I have trawled through the forum but can't seem to find a definitive answer to my query...
> 
> Will a macbook pro 15inch (NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M with 512MB of GDDR5 memory) connect to the Gold version of the CrossOver Montitor (2720MDP) via displayport (not dual link DVI) at full resolution?
> 
> This monitor has a displayport input so in theory all i would need is a mini display port to display port cable (cheap) not the expensive ($99) dual link to DVI cable.
> 
> And if i can indeed get a signal, will it be full resultion of 2560x1440 (or else this is pointless and i might as well get a regular crossover with the expensive mac cable)
> 
> Anyone got the Gold working full res with a MBP? Any help please!


this isn't a mac forum but it should work. and dl-dvi cables are like $5 not $99. dvi to dl dvi cable would not work anyways as monitor needs dl-dvi from dl-dvi port, but dp will for multi input crossover will work. just seach this thread with word mac and you will see all discussion you need to know.


----------



## mullum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mullum*
> 
> Oh dear, here we go ...
> 
> Bought a 27Q LED+ Tempered Glass from redcap (red-cap - ebay). It developed a fault (mangled/garbled text on screen).
> 
> Tested on various graphics cards/cables/windows/osx - same result. Its faulty.
> 
> They'll have it back, if I pay to ship it to Korea. They'll fix it, not replace it.
> 
> This fault may be rare, but it has meant that I've been without a usable monitor for a long time.


Use caution if you intend to buy from redcap - if things go wrong they dont seem have much time for you !
Its been a week since I requested a return and Ive not hear a peep from them, despite several emails.


----------



## dutchm

Just got my 27Q LED from dream-seller. SUPER fast shipping, kind of couldn't believe it as I was looking at the tracking info. I downloaded the color-profile from this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1280755/review-tests-crossover-27q-led-p-pivot-edition-gallery-with-apple-cinema-display but I didn't notice any changes.. I'm completely new to calibrating things should I just stick with that profile and call it good? Colors look good to me


----------



## Descadent

use cloudz. its in this thread. just search. he also has he own thread.


----------



## naididae

Can anyone with a CrossOver 27Q LED-P tell me the exact lowest heigh (monitor + stand) it has? Pretty please.


----------



## dude4

I've heard a few people mention that SquaretradeWarranties warranties can be used with these monitor from most EBay sellers,
Does anyone know if this would cover backlight bleeding or dead pixels, stuff that people pay extra anyways for the perfect pixel versions?
Also I was told a while back that if when I pay with my AMEX (and some other credit cards )for eBay items as long as I pay the full amount via the extended warranty coverage on the card
Anyone think that would work?


----------



## Descadent

no it won't. only if the monitor actually breaks. once again doesn't matter if you buy these korean monitors or apple/dell. they can still have dead pixels/backlight bleed.


----------



## messyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> this isn't a mac forum but it should work. and dl-dvi cables are like $5 not $99. dvi to dl dvi cable would not work anyways as monitor needs dl-dvi from dl-dvi port, but dp will for multi input crossover will work. just seach this thread with word mac and you will see all discussion you need to know.


Thanks! I realise that this is not a mac forum but seems to be a few people posting about getting a CrossOver working with one. As mentioned i have searched the forum and nobody has answered my query about it working at full resolution.

The dp to dual link dvi cable's are $99 not $5 as they need to be 'active'. For this reason i want to save money by getting the Gold version but only if I am sure it works at full resolution!

It makes more sense for mac owners to get the 2720MDP Gold over the regular version because of displayport but only if it works!

http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter


----------



## mullum

Has anyone else sent back their Crossover to Korea from the UK ?
I'm getting quotes at over £100, wondered if anyone has found the best way.
Of course thats just getting it TO Korea, I'll also have to pay for its return (another £60 !) and then HOPE that its fixed and hasnt developed another problem in transit around the world. Of course it could always develop a different problem at a later date, or break after the end of the warranty. I do hope people consider these issues before they buy from Redcap !


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *messyp*
> 
> Thanks! I realise that this is not a mac forum but seems to be a few people posting about getting a CrossOver working with one. As mentioned i have searched the forum and nobody has answered my query about it working at full resolution.
> 
> The dp to dual link dvi cable's are $99 not $5 as they need to be 'active'. For this reason i want to save money by getting the Gold version but only if I am sure it works at full resolution!
> 
> It makes more sense for mac owners to get the 2720MDP Gold over the regular version because of displayport but only if it works!
> 
> http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter


no. there is a difference between a cable (there is no dp to DL-dvi active cable) and an adatper. you never said adapter originally. You said cable. that's why I was like what? $99 cable?!

for mac you should get one of the multis


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *messyp*
> 
> Thanks! I realise that this is not a mac forum but seems to be a few people posting about getting a CrossOver working with one. As mentioned i have searched the forum and nobody has answered my query about it working at full resolution.
> 
> The dp to dual link dvi cable's are $99 not $5 as they need to be 'active'. For this reason i want to save money by getting the Gold version but only if I am sure it works at full resolution!
> 
> It makes more sense for mac owners to get the 2720MDP Gold over the regular version because of displayport but only if it works!
> 
> http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter


@messyp - I wish I would have gotten the 2720MDP Gold over the 27QD. I've been struggling to get this to work, and still haven't. I've been through 4 different mini displayport to dual link DVI adapters, but none seem to work. The apple one works best, but still not completely. The monitor powers on for a few seconds, then shuts off, then tries again, continuously, but just never stays on. I'm pulling my hair out trying to get this to work. It DOES work via bootcamp, which is really weird, so there is something going on with Mac OS X (drivers?) that isn't allowing me to get this to work.

Anyways, I think you should be fine with the MDP edition. You're going to have to shell out $100 anyway for the adapter, so it's a wash, but you'll probably have better results. I wish I would have done that, or possibly the Auria from MC, or waited for Monoprice to get theirs in stock.


----------



## messyp

@bleepjay - Thanks for the advice, and sorry to hear about your problems. As you say if you are having issues with the 27QD it makes even more sense for others to go with the 2720MDP. Just hope i don't end up with 1080p or something when i connect it.

Think I will pul the trigger, fingers crossed. Pixel perfect version from AW for UK £370 which seems expensive for these korean monitors, but in comparison Apple Cinema Displays are £900...


----------



## Descadent

don't buy pixel perfect, save money, get same monitor you would probably get if you bought pixel perfect anyways haha


----------



## bleepjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> don't buy pixel perfect, save money, get same monitor you would probably get if you bought pixel perfect anyways haha


Descadent is right. I didn't buy a pixel perfect, but I got one. I'm sure they pull from same stack, just check before hand if you order pixel perfect. It is up to you though.


----------



## TarballX

Just wanted to leave another good comment for AccessoriesWhole. After owning the monitor for 6 months, the backlight started to flicker at times. It went away for a while, and then came back the next month. Opened up the monitor and saw the blue backlight PCB with burn marks on it, like many other people had with the older monitors. Messaged AW about it, sent them pictures of it, and they sent out a new green PCB. They sent it FedEx Intl Priority and it got here overnight.
So they definitely honor their 1 year warranty, and it's definitely worth buying from AW for their support..


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

Absolutely DYING to get one of these monitors, I've been using 8 year old 1280x1024 monitors since I built my rig. However, I just can't afford one of these yet, so I'm asking when do you think prices are going to go back down? Didn't they used to be a lot cheaper before everyone figured out they existed? Also, if I'm looking for a matte monitor, does Crossover have one? I don't think I want a monitor with a glass panel over the screen, there's a lot of glare in my room. Any recommendations?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf6768*
> 
> Absolutely DYING to get one of these monitors, I've been using 8 year old 1280x1024 monitors since I built my rig. However, I just can't afford one of these yet, so I'm asking when do you think prices are going to go back down? Didn't they used to be a lot cheaper before everyone figured out they existed? Also, if I'm looking for a matte monitor, does Crossover have one? I don't think I want a monitor with a glass panel over the screen, there's a lot of glare in my room. Any recommendations?


they are more expensive because there are less available and it's not glass it's plastic essentially but the glare isn't bad and I have 4 windows behind me. but yes there is glare. but it's sooooo pretty


----------



## Dustin1

Just purchased my Crossover 27Q


----------



## CodeHPro

I also just purchased my CrossOver 27Q! And will post pictures and a review compared to my other screens once I get it


----------



## yarrh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naididae*
> 
> Can anyone with a CrossOver 27Q LED-P tell me the exact lowest heigh (monitor + stand) it has? Pretty please.


bottom row of pixels 3-3/8in or 8.6cm above desk surface


----------



## bleepjay

After all of my attempts at trying to get the 27QD working on my Mac Mini, I have given up. I'm selling it on ebay, so if anybody is interested, you can PM me and I can send you the link. As stated before, I have gotten a perfect pixel (as far as my eyes can tell), but cannot get it to work with my Mac due to the displayport->dual link dvi in OS X.

This monitor works perfectly on my PC, but because I need it for my Mac, I've got to let it go. After it's sold, I'll probably go for one of the Mini Displayport versions. Y'all have been a great help trying to debug the issue, but I don't see a way of getting this to work.


----------



## naididae

ty very much yarrh.


----------



## kouki monster

I purchased a 27Q from Accessorieswhole expecting it to arrive in a few days, its been 4 days and its still in Singapore









I cant wait to get it, hopefully it wont be too much longer


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kouki monster*
> 
> I purchased a 27Q from Accessorieswhole expecting it to arrive in a few days, its been 4 days and its still in Singapore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant wait to get it, hopefully it wont be too much longer


odd. definitely contact them, but it's weekend so you may not gear back from them till monday


----------



## kouki monster

It gone from Korea to China and now its in Singapore so im sure it will get to me eventually. Im in New Zealand btw which is probably why its taking so long. Not nearly as many flights into NZ compared to US


----------



## effeX

I'm very interested in buying one of these monitors from AW but was wondering if anyone was charged customs fees for having it shipped to the US? I live in Illinois so i was wondering if anyone was charged customs fees, if so how much?


----------



## Zaxis01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kouki monster*
> 
> I purchased a 27Q from Accessorieswhole expecting it to arrive in a few days, its been 4 days and its still in Singapore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cant wait to get it, hopefully it wont be too much longer


Sucks to hear.

Hopefully it wont be much longer.

I purchased mine from TAPlanet on Wednesday night and arrived 10:00am on Friday

And the screen is absolutely flawless.

Highly recommended seller.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *effeX*
> 
> I'm very interested in buying one of these monitors from AW but was wondering if anyone was charged customs fees for having it shipped to the US? I live in Illinois so i was wondering if anyone was charged customs fees, if so how much?


zero

we have a free trade agreement with korea.


----------



## 2bravot

Also had a good experience with AW. Had a Crossover 2720MDP with the faulty Blue PCB which went after 6 months (These Blue PCBs seemed to be expiring after this period. Shame on you Crossover). Tried getting replacement from original seller with no luck. Saw a post here about AW selling the replacement Green PCB which they kindly agreed to with Fed-Ex plus tracking number thrown-in too without prompting which was delivered within 2 days to the UK. That is speed and the Green PCB turned out to be the 3 x MOSFET version as well. Those who are having difficulty getting a replacement Green PCB should give AW a try. Glad I did.


----------



## dude4

can someone give me the shipping dimensions and approximate weight for one of these?


----------



## Cloudz00x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude4*
> 
> can someone give me the shipping dimensions and approximate weight for one of these?


When they ship or your returning products it's through FedEx. Fedex has a drop down box where it says custom box. You do not need to put the dimensions of the box. Done it multiple times now. The weight is about 25 lbs each box with contents in it.


----------



## philharmonik

Came real close to purchasing an ASUS 24" LCD, then at the last minute changed my mind. Now I'm looking at getting this Crossover.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5985576943118373961%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D330766364137%26

Do these come with a default one year warranty?? I see it has that option for the 3 year square trade warranty. Do I really need that 3 year warranty or could I get it later on down the road. $386 is already pushing my budget. Has anyone had to deal with an RMA with these Crossover monitors?

I'm also looking at the Overlord Tempest X270SE since its in USA and the RMA process seems like it would be easier instead of having to ship to Korea. It's also a bit cheaper. I do prefer the look of the Crossovers compared to the Overlords.

I'm mainly going to be playing games like Crysis 3, and BF3. Both campaign and MP.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Came real close to purchasing an ASUS 24" LCD, then at the last minute changed my mind. Now I'm looking at getting this Crossover.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D5985576943118373961%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D3%26sd%3D330766364137%26
> 
> Do these come with a default one year warranty?? I see it has that option for the 3 year square trade warranty. Do I really need that 3 year warranty or could I get it later on down the road. $386 is already pushing my budget. Has anyone had to deal with an RMA with these Crossover monitors?
> 
> I'm also looking at the Overlord Tempest X270SE since its in USA and the RMA process seems like it would be easier instead of having to ship to Korea. It's also a bit cheaper. I do prefer the look of the Crossovers compared to the Overlords.
> 
> I'm mainly going to be playing games like Crysis 3, and BF3. Both campaign and MP.


DO IT DANGIT.

yes it's default 1 year warranty. cloud can tell you all about that. he had to send 3 back to them, not to mention they will overnight parts if something goes bad so you don't have to send monitors all way back.

square trade is still an option, however, I choose not to get it personally. If these monitors cost what the apple equivalent costs, yes I would have been all over square trade because same monitor with apple sticker on it is ridiculously priced!

Overlord is great too don't get me wrong, but the crossover is the sexiest monitor case ever. IMO.
just my thoughts.


----------



## Spartan F8

I just wish overlord had better bezels. It looks like a small TV rather than a monitor.


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> DO IT DANGIT.
> 
> yes it's default 1 year warranty. cloud can tell you all about that. he had to send 3 back to them, not to mention they will overnight parts if something goes bad so you don't have to send monitors all way back.
> 
> square trade is still an option, however, I choose not to get it personally. If these monitors cost what the apple equivalent costs, yes I would have been all over square trade because same monitor with apple sticker on it is ridiculously priced!
> 
> Overlord is great too don't get me wrong, but the crossover is the sexiest monitor case ever. IMO.
> just my thoughts.


I came to the realization that my system will be able to handle a 1440p resolution better than a 144/120Hz refresh rate. There's no way I could run Crysis 3 at 120 fps to even see the effect of the high refresh rate. From what you and all the other Crossover owners have been saying, the picture is just outstanding. Plus, I'd rather have 27" screen than a 24.


----------



## kouki monster

I got my Crossover!!

It took 4 working days (Wed --> Tue) to arrive in NZ from Accessorieswhole.

Monitor looks great! Haven't found any dead or stuck pixels and i probably wont look to hard for any either









Accessorieswhole did forget to send a power adapter for my region though but i have contacted him about it.

Once I have some free time from university i will calibrate the monitor with the profiles on here.

Overall im quite happy although i am wondering if i really needed a monitor this size....haha


----------



## alexslx

Hello,

I'm new into this world of buying a expensive monitor, but i have build a great machine for work and gaming, and I *think* we need a great monitor to follow my build and doesn't have a suck into it. First, my computer configuration is the following:


Intel Core i7 3770K 3.5Ghz - 3rd Generation (Ivy Bridge)
Zalman CNPS11X
GIGABYTE Z77 GA-Z77X-UD5H
32GB DDR3 (4x8GB) 1.6Ghz Corsair Vengeance
1.0TB Western Digital Black Caviar (64MB Buffer @ 7200RPM)
ZOTAC GEFORCE GTX 580 AMP! Edition (Overclocked)
Cooler Master HAF X (942) Full Tower Case
And so, my questions:


I've read about eBay sellers and I think the best trusted seller is *accessorieswhole*. How is the relation with this seller? If you ask anything, they make if possible? I want to ask him to declare the value to FedEX below the buying price, because my country put 100% of taxes into product value.
Can someone explain me the difference of 27Q, 27QP and others options? This seller have a lot of options, and I sincerely doesn't know what will be the best for me. I'm thinking into buy from this link.
My computer will support this monitor resolution? I play most FPS games like Battlefield 3, Call Of Duty and some racing games. I use Visual Studio and Photoshop sometimes. I dont have money to buy another VGA card.
There is any list of know issues and how to correct if possible?

Thanks for the help and sorry if I'm disturbing anyone with dumb questions.


----------



## Descadent

Please use search thread button. All answers already here and yes your 580 will work.

For Tax reasons where are you located? Many countries have free trade agreement


----------



## alexslx

Hello friend,

I have used the search and have read about some questions, but I didn't come with a conclusion, but i still digging the whole internet, I'll not buy this without have a deep search. I'm kind of doubtful because it is my first purchase from a brand not known, but I have read that if you have lucky, they come close to perfect comparing with know brands like Apple and Dell for monitors.

My GTX580 is the version with 1,5Gb, because this I asked about running games with their native resolution.

My country is Brazil, and everyone in whole world knows about our taxes (and our 'noobs' into MMORPGS, but i'm out of this







).


----------



## Descadent

you might have to lower some settings so you don't max out that 1.5 on the 580 that's about it

and these are name brand monitors. It's an LG monitor, just says crossover on it. It's also an apple because it's same panel apple uses from LG.

far as taxes in brazil goes. can't answer that. I know AW marks it as a gift for countries who get taxed so it minimalises tax charged on an import. Your best bet is to ask AW about shipping to brazil

don't be scared, do it. there are 517 pages just in this thread, and there is also catleap, auria, overlord, etc korean monitor threads to back up that these monitors are awesome.


----------



## nboldt

Got my Crossover on Friday!

I was pretty nervous about it, hoping to get a good panel. And it is! No dead/stuck pixels - minor lightbleed on full black/dark room.

Really impressed by build quality as well. Couldn't be happier with the purchase - bought from GreenSum on EBay.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexslx*
> 
> Hello friend,
> 
> I have used the search and have read about some questions, but I didn't come with a conclusion, but i still digging the whole internet, I'll not buy this without have a deep search. I'm kind of doubtful because it is my first purchase from a brand not known, but I have read that if you have lucky, they come close to perfect comparing with know brands like Apple and Dell for monitors.
> 
> My GTX580 is the version with 1,5Gb, because this I asked about running games with their native resolution.
> 
> My country is Brazil, and everyone in whole world knows about our taxes (and our 'noobs' into MMORPGS, but i'm out of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


I got 3 and I'm still deeply amazed when looking at them. Many people have bought them and I don't even remember hearing negative thing about it. The only thing I could think of is the light bleeding in the bottom right corner but even 1 000$ branded panel as way more bleeding than the CrossOvers.



Spoiler: CrossOver 27Q LED-P (Eyefinity)!


----------



## alexslx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you might have to lower some settings so you don't max out that 1.5 on the 580 that's about it
> 
> and these are name brand monitors. It's an LG monitor, just says crossover on it. It's also an apple because it's same panel apple uses from LG.
> 
> far as taxes in brazil goes. can't answer that. I know AW marks it as a gift for countries who get taxed so it minimalises tax charged on an import. Your best bet is to ask AW about shipping to brazil
> 
> don't be scared, do it. there are 517 pages just in this thread, and there is also catleap, auria, overlord, etc korean monitor threads to back up that these monitors are awesome.


Thanks for your information. But the CrossOver is the best one, at least what i have read, their chance of ship a monitor with issues is lower and have a better finish into their design.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexslx*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm new into this world of buying a expensive monitor, but i have build a great machine for work and gaming, and I *think* we need a great monitor to follow my build and doesn't have a suck into it. First, my computer configuration is the following:
> 
> 
> Intel Core i7 3770K 3.5Ghz - 3rd Generation (Ivy Bridge)
> Zalman CNPS11X
> GIGABYTE Z77 GA-Z77X-UD5H
> 32GB DDR3 (4x8GB) 1.6Ghz Corsair Vengeance
> 1.0TB Western Digital Black Caviar (64MB Buffer @ 7200RPM)
> ZOTAC GEFORCE GTX 580 AMP! Edition (Overclocked)
> Cooler Master HAF X (942) Full Tower Case
> And so, my questions:
> 
> 
> I've read about eBay sellers and I think the best trusted seller is *accessorieswhole*. How is the relation with this seller? If you ask anything, they make if possible? I want to ask him to declare the value to FedEX below the buying price, because my country put 100% of taxes into product value.
> Can someone explain me the difference of 27Q, 27QP and others options? This seller have a lot of options, and I sincerely doesn't know what will be the best for me. I'm thinking into buy from this link.
> My computer will support this monitor resolution? I play most FPS games like Battlefield 3, Call Of Duty and some racing games. I use Visual Studio and Photoshop sometimes. I dont have money to buy another VGA card.
> There is any list of know issues and how to correct if possible?
> 
> Thanks for the help and sorry if I'm disturbing anyone with dumb questions.


I hope someone here can reply about the relation with the seller, someone maybe live into any country that have heavy duties and taxes.


----------



## Zaxis01

Here are a few shots of my 27q.

No lightbleed or dead pixels at all!


----------



## Dustin1

Green Sum shipped my CrossOver out today so hopefully I'll have it by this weekend... Got my fingers crossed for no issues or dead pixels!


----------



## rock2702

Got my crossover 27q led-p today from accessories whole.The display looks awesome,checked for dead/stuck pixels,couldn't find any.Did not check for light bleed.The thing is a finger print magnet.One thing which concerns me is the glass on the top right and left corners is not firm,when I pressed on screen with my thumbs,it presses a bit as if the glass is not properly glued to the display.Pressing at other places on the display I did not find this to happen.It seems like on the top corners something is loose.I was dissapointed to find this.Should I mail aw regarding this issue?Shipping the display back is very difficult for me though.


----------



## philharmonik

Finally!!! I did it!! Just placed my order with Accessorieswhole for the Crossover 27Q LED (non P). I don't really need pivot. My current monitor doesnt even have that and I've never had a need for it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110867210291?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I'm sooooo excited to go 1440p!























Estimated delivery for the 7th or the 12th!


----------



## jgozalo

Hi got mine yesterday. It looks great and works great. I have a couple of questions:

1.- I bought the perfect pixel one, so no dead pixel, but i think i have some lighbleed...how can i check' the lightbleed? Actually, if I change the viewing angle a bit, the lightbleed disapears so a friend told me that is just IPS glow...I am also using the max brigthness...how do u guys know if there is light bleed or just IPS glow?

2.- how do u guys know what level of brightness you are using? the monitor dosent how any bar. I ue windows 7

3.- do you guys think that anti aliasing is necesary if I play Crysis 3 or The Witcher at 2540x1440?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jgozalo*
> 
> Hi got mine yesterday. It looks great and works great. I have a couple of questions:
> 
> 1.- I bought the perfect pixel one, so no dead pixel, but i think i have some lighbleed...how can i check' the lightbleed? Actually, if I change the viewing angle a bit, the lightbleed disapears so a friend told me that is just IPS glow...I am also using the max brigthness...how do u guys know if there is light bleed or just IPS glow?
> 
> 2.- how do u guys know what level of brightness you are using? the monitor dosent how any bar. I ue windows 7
> 
> 3.- do you guys think that anti aliasing is necesary if I play Crysis 3 or The Witcher at 2540x1440?


1. it's an ips thing yes. turn down brightness helps, but some people have opened and re-closed the case to alleviate pressure on the screen to help with bleeding.

2. We don't just whatever looks good and doesn't blind me.

3. at 1440p you can use lesser modes of aa. I only use fxaa personally.


----------



## rock2702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> Got my crossover 27q led-p today from accessories whole.The display looks awesome,checked for dead/stuck pixels,couldn't find any.Did not check for light bleed.The thing is a finger print magnet.One thing which concerns me is the glass on the top right and left corners is not firm,when I pressed on screen with my thumbs,it presses a bit as if the glass is not properly glued to the display.Pressing at other places on the display I did not find this to happen.It seems like on the top corners something is loose.I was dissapointed to find this.Should I mail aw regarding this issue?Shipping the display back is very difficult for me though.


Any help here?


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> Got my crossover 27q led-p today from accessories whole. &#8230; The thing is a finger print magnet.One thing which concerns me is the glass on the top right and left corners is not firm,when I pressed on screen with my thumbs,it presses a bit as if the glass is not properly glued to the display.


Neither my Crossover nor any of my previous monitors has ever exhibited a magnetism for fingerprints. Rather than with the monitor, the issue might be with the fingers.









I'd say if the screen is uneven or loose on the edges then it's a problem. Else it probably isn't. Screens do give in when you apply pressure to them, which is another reason for me to avoid touching the screen. Or have you ever seen it marketed as a touch screen?


----------



## philharmonik

I just received a reply back from Accessorieswhole about my order. I had a few questions and this is what they said. I'm impressed!

*Hi

Thank you for your purchase.
We never sell the monitor with blue tint.
But I'm sorry we cannot guarantee for no backlight bleed.
As you might know, Even Apple Cinema Display do not guarantee and responsible for backlight bleed and they also do not take return for that reason.
For same reasons, we also do not guarantee its backlight bleed as return matter.
However, we do inspect each monitors for its condition and do not sell any monitors with excessive backlight bleed.
If it will be alright, we could try to seek for monitor with less backlight bleed.

Actually there were some faulty on blue PCB so Crossover replaced it to green PCB.
But now a days Crossover put new blue PCB with green pcb.
New Blue PCB is updated for last faulty and there is no problem anymore.
And don't worry about PCB or monitor.
If you have any problem with your monitor, our support team will solve it.
You can check our feedback.

Sincerely

- accessorieswhole*

Feeling the great customer service already!


----------



## Descadent

yeah they are really good.


----------



## tianh

Hey guys, so which model Crossover is everyone buying? The 27Q or the 27QD? The QD looks really good.. any advice?

Also the 2730MD LED from crossover is also looking real good with hdmi support too.. Which one should I get?


----------



## Descadent

27q led-p


----------



## philharmonik

Wow! Accessorieswhole is FAST! They shipped it yesterday and its already at my local FedEx station about to go out for delivery!
















Do you have to sign for these when they are delivered? I'm at work and my wife might be out when they deliver it.


----------



## Descadent

I can't remember but I want to say yes you have to sign. You could always leave a note on the door for them to leave it. might work. At least it's worked here before.


----------



## philharmonik

Its all good, I just called my wife and she's going to Bootcamp tonight instead of this morning. So she will be there to receive it! I haven't even started Tomb Raider yet, because I want to see it in 1440p first.


----------



## Althulas

Hi Damesqlo I hope these screen shots help make up your mind to buying a great monitor.

2560x1440



1920x1080



2560x1440



1920x1080



2560x1440



1920x1080



Not the best pics from my iphone but at least I'm sure I've posted them in the correct order







Mark.


----------



## Sannakji

This is a really great thread/resource.

I've decided on going accesorieswhole if I can help it; trying to get the most flawless panel possible.

There are SO many models though! Really hard to choose, even with this thread. Can anyone recommend one for my needs?

I'd like it to be reasonably priced of course. I don't need the screen to pivot. If the screen could be sturdy and not rock when I type that would be great but not a dealbreaker. I would however, like a HDMI port. Might be nice to check out some console games on an IPS screen.







And finally, I have an nVidia 660ti if that matters, for compatibility. Can anybody recommend which panel would be best? I live in S.K. so will probably be able to pick it up myself.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> This is a really great thread/resource.
> 
> I've decided on going accesorieswhole if I can help it; trying to get the most flawless panel possible.
> 
> There are SO many models though! Really hard to choose, even with this thread. Can anyone recommend one for my needs?
> 
> I'd like it to be reasonably priced of course. I don't need the screen to pivot. If the screen could be sturdy and not rock when I type that would be great but not a dealbreaker. I would however, like a HDMI port. Might be nice to check out some console games on an IPS screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, I have an nVidia 660ti if that matters, for compatibility. Can anybody recommend which panel would be best? I live in S.K. so will probably be able to pick it up myself.


you can see a console on a tv which is ips mostly...

but 2730mdp will be for what you want, but console on it won't be anything spectacular as it can't run in 1440p

660 is beyond fine. any card with dl-dvi that can do 2560x1440 will work


----------



## philharmonik

BOOM! Delivered!!


----------



## MrBox

Just ordered the Crossover 27Q LED Pivot model. Will post pics and performance summary when it arrives next week. Will probably get 2 more if it is as good as I've been hearing









**Oh I bought mine from "GREEN-SUM" as he had the best price and shipping time when I ordered on ebay today.**


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> BOOM! Delivered!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


prepared to be mind=blown.

your wall color looks like ours


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> prepared to be mind=blown.
> 
> your wall color looks like ours


Lara Croft in 1440p!


----------



## damesqlo

Hello guys, im new in this forum, i been looking for info about this monitors, so i know a few guys were looking for info about scaling resolutions, some people like me doesnt have a high end graphic card, so we cant play some games at high resolutions because the fps drops, so i asked to a forum member (Althulas) about this, i asked in private beacuse i though that my question gona get lost in sooooo many pages in this thread.

Well... my question was if is possible to to play at 1920x1080 in full screen (whitout black bands) so the answer is YES!

His answer is in this page...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/5180

Once again.. thank you Althulas









Sorry for my english.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Lara Croft in 1440p!


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*


Niiiiiiiice!! Are you playing with TressFX enabled or disabled?


----------



## jerry1234

Hello all,

Still got that big credit at Amazon burning a hole in my pocket. I stopped by the local Amazon showroom ( AKA Best Buy ) today. They didn't have much. They did, however have an Apple Thunderbolt hooked up to some kind of Mac. I understand that's the same LCD as the Crossover. Nice monitor. I'm not a graphics guy, I just like lots ( and lots and lots ) of text. Multiple windows of text. Say, three or four editor windows with a program I'm working on, plus a maybe a Firefox with 13 tabs of results and web research. Right now, I'm using a machine with three monitors - a 25-incher in the middle flanked by a little one on each side. Anyway, I gotta say that the Thunderbolt shows mighty crisp text.

There are just a few vendors who sell these things on Amazon. Does anybody have experience (good or bad) with these people?

"K-Wave"
"Ecomade Arena"
"Nemo Commerce"

- jerry1234


----------



## jerry1234

I'm thinking of buying one the monitors that have multiple inputs - just for versatility. I understand that those have a delay. Does the delay apply even when you're using the DVI-D input?

- jerry1234


----------



## tehpsyc

Well I'm back after a few months of no issues because I decided to buy another Crossover. I was originally very active on this thread when we were all trying to figure out what was going on with the backlight dying and the PCB variations that were responsible. I thought it would be great to do dual Crossovers, so I went for it. Within an hour of using my new monitor, the screen went black and rendered no display. My computer still thinks its working (the monitor is detected) and the back light is still on (so not the famous back light PCB burnout issue that I had with my first Crossover) but a whole new problem. I've contacted my seller and I must say I am extremely devastated to have this happen again. I have tried the following options:

3 DVI cables
3 different power supplies (the one it came with, the one my other crossover came with, and one from a Shimian that was exactly the same)
Both DVI ports on my computer (Radeon 7970, one DVI port and one mini-displayport with the expensive adapter)
My roommates computer (GTX 560 Ti)

I had been running dual 27" IPS's for a while now, just one was a Shimian and one was a Crossover, and I really wanted to get a matching pair. So i had found someone to buy the Shimian and was going to do that swap. I only mention this because I want to verify that my setup is able to handle two of these panels without a problem. I suspect something is wrong with the primary PCB, the one where the connections are made, and will need to be replaced; but if anyone has any suggestions I can try while I wait at my seller's mercy yet again it would be greatly appreciated.

Also, to make the situation more confusing, I randomly tried firing it up again, power cycling it several times rapidly and it actually came on and was working after having been dead for a few hours, not to mention the first dozen or so attempts immediately preceding. So naturally I decided to cycle it one more time (it was living on borrowed time anyway) to see how it would behave, to which it returned to the blank screen with the back light on.


----------



## philharmonik

Sooooo....just unpacked my Crossover and I'm devastated. Has anyone else received their monitor like this? I have already contacted the seller, so I'm waiting on their response, but I figured I would show you guys and see if you had any suggestions.


----------



## rho86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Sooooo....just unpacked my Crossover and I'm devastated. Has anyone else received their monitor like this? I have already contacted the seller, so I'm waiting on their response, but I figured I would show you guys and see if you had any suggestions.


Have you tried another dual link DVI cable, another video output, or another video card altogether?


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rho86*
> 
> Have you tried another dual link DVI cable, another video output, or another video card altogether?


Yes, I had a spare dual link dvi cable. Tried all the inputs on my gpu except for the second gpu. I also tried it on another system as well. No luck. I hope I don't have to send this thing back.


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Within an hour of using my new monitor, the screen went black and rendered no display. My computer still thinks its working (the monitor is detected) and the back light is still on (so not the famous back light PCB burnout issue that I had with my first Crossover) but a whole new problem. &#8230; I have tried the following options:
> 
> 3 DVI cables
> 3 different power supplies (the one it came with, the one my other crossover came with, and one from a Shimian that was exactly the same)
> Both DVI ports on my computer (Radeon 7970, one DVI port and one mini-displayport with the expensive adapter)
> My roommates computer (GTX 560 Ti)
> 
> &#8230; I suspect something is wrong with the primary PCB, the one where the connections are made, and will need to be replaced; &#8230;
> 
> Also, to make the situation more confusing, I randomly tried firing it up again, power cycling it several times rapidly and it actually came on and was working after having been dead for a few hours, not to mention the first dozen or so attempts immediately preceding. So naturally I decided to cycle it one more time (it was living on borrowed time anyway) to see how it would behave, to which it returned to the blank screen with the back light on.


My Crossover 27Q has developed the same blackout problem after two weeks of usage. At my seller's request, I opened it to examine the innards. The LED driver board (small one mounted on the side) and the connector board (square one mounted in the center) both looked okay. I noticed a screw was missing on the lid at the top edge of the monitor. (See red circle on first photo.) I took off that lid. It covers three more boards. Two of them are long and slim. The larger one sitting below them had two splotches of what looked like white molten wax to me, which seems to come from cylindrical parts mounted onto the board. (See second photo.) Are there capacitors filled with such white stuff? Keep in mind that while it doesn't look right to me, I do not know whether this is actually a defect, and whether it is the cause of the blackouts.




Anyone who knows about electronics, your insights concerning the white splotches are welcome.

You can see a (low quality) video of the blackout here:

http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=30a973n&s=6

The characteristic thing is that the blackout onset is not instantaneous. It takes about half a second to a full second for the blackout to engulf the entire screen. It is like power fading from the monitor, like an LED on some stereo equipment that consumes what's left in a capacitor before dieing off, just quicker.

This effect is a bit disconcerting. I've never seen such a blackout on any monitor at all. Neither on television sets. It certainly doesn't rhyme with quality. Might be bad luck, but a missing screw and squashed whatnot on a PCB, hmm &#8230;

I trust the cause of the blackout will be found and the fault repaired. I bought from the seller enjoying the best reputation on this forum.

I do not yet regret purchasing the monitor as the image is truly beautiful. Only one dead pixel on the side (hardly noticeable), and a slight yellow tint, none of which bothers me. But occasional blackouts do, as they are foreboding of an eventual final blackout.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> My Crossover 27Q has developed the same blackout problem after two weeks of usage. At my seller's request, I opened it to examine the innards. The LED driver board (small one mounted on the side) and the connector board (square one mounted in the center) both looked okay. I noticed a screw was missing on the lid at the top edge of the monitor. (See red circle on first photo.) I took off that lid. It covers three more boards. Two of them are long and slim. The larger one sitting below them had two splotches of what looked like white molten wax to me, which seems to come from cylindrical parts mounted onto the board. (See second photo.) Are there capacitors filled with such white stuff? Keep in mind that while it doesn't look right to me, I do not know whether this is actually a defect, and whether it is the cause of the blackouts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone who knows about electronics, your insights concerning the white splotches are welcome.
> 
> You can see a (low quality) video of the blackout here:
> 
> http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=30a973n&s=6
> 
> The characteristic thing is that the blackout onset is not instantaneous. It takes about half a second to a full second for the blackout to engulf the entire screen. It is like power fading from the monitor, like an LED on some stereo equipment that consumes what's left in a capacitor before dieing off, just quicker.
> 
> This effect is a bit disconcerting. I've never seen such a blackout on any monitor at all. Neither on television sets. It certainly doesn't rhyme with quality. Might be bad luck, but a missing screw and squashed whatnot on a PCB, hmm &#8230;
> 
> I trust the cause of the blackout will be found and the fault repaired. I bought from the seller enjoying the best reputation on this forum.
> 
> I do not yet regret purchasing the monitor as the image is truly beautiful. Only one dead pixel on the side (hardly noticeable), and a slight yellow tint, none of which bothers me. But occasional blackouts do, as they are foreboding of an eventual final blackout.


The internals of my monitor appear exactly the same as yours (the white adhesive and the missing screw) but I don't think that is abnormal. My other crossover, which after getting the LED PCB exchanged, has been working fine for about 6 months, and it too is missing that screw. I never lifted up the plate on that one t o check the LG boards however, but I suspect they all have that adhesive that can be a normal finding in electronics.

The symptoms of my screen don't quite sound the same as yours. Mine seems to be an issue with the monitor sending the actual display data to the panel. So far I've been able to get the monitor start in about 1/50 power cycles (3 successful starts so far) and once its started its fine and has no issues. But if let the computer sleep or power cycle the monitor the problem returns. The display is blanked out immediately upon restarting, with no picture ever displaying. The backlight and brightness adjustments work normally.

I inspected all my PCBs and see no evidence of overheating or damage. I'm wondering now if I its the main crossover PCB or some of the LG circuitry tucked under that metal panel.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Niiiiiiiice!! Are you playing with TressFX enabled or disabled?


disabled. tressfx is a mess and destroys your pc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Sooooo....just unpacked my Crossover and I'm devastated. Has anyone else received their monitor like this? I have already contacted the seller, so I'm waiting on their response, but I figured I would show you guys and see if you had any suggestions.


woah........

aw is probably going to tell you to open the back up and check make sure connections are fully seated first and check for any bad looking spots. or it just got damaged in shipping. your box looked ok though.


----------



## Hicks81

Just finished unpacking my new Crossover 2720MDP. Take look at this - is it OK, that it has so much backlight bleeding?
Also found 1" scratch at the right bottom corner (
Seller - accessorieswhole
Thinking on returning item


----------



## Descadent

is that on a black background or white?

looks terrible hit them up immediately they will take care of you.


----------



## Hicks81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> is that on a black background or white?
> looks terrible hit them up immediately they will take care of you.


It's on a black (( Hope I won't have to pay for returning shipping..


----------



## Sannakji

Jesus that could act as a lamp! Definitely return that, what a mess. Was that from accesorieswhole? Maybe I should consider greensum too... thanks for the recommendations on the panel guys. Close to making a purchase I think!


----------



## Descadent

Aw still best but things happen with international shipping


----------



## effeX

Received my 27Q yesterday hooked it up and it was perfect no backlight bleeding/dead pixels however today after playing simcity for a couple hours i alt+tabbed and noticed a red pixel on my bottom left screen, any advice to fix this?


----------



## jerry1234

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> Are there capacitors filled with such white stuff?


*** Not sure. But back in day, it was common for electrolytic capacitors to give up after a while WHEN THEY WERE INSTALLED BACKWARDS. Electrolytics are polarity sensitive. They have
a plus end and a minus end. If somebody installs them backwards ( a common mistake ) they might work fine for a while, and suddenly give up. Violently. I've seen the little ones go *pop*, and the
innards spit out, just like confetti. The big ones... Let's just say you don't want to be near a big one when it pops.

Maybe you can get your vendor to email you a photo of that board from a good monitor?

- jerry1234


----------



## philharmonik

Got a response back from AW.

Hi

Sorry for the inconvenience.
Have you removed the paneling to see if there's something blown?
Will you check if the board is defective?
If you take off the back panel of the monitor to see that a MOSFET on the LED Driver board had burned out like these photos?
http://i46.tinypic.com/23kvoz.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/34z0cp1.png
http://www.abload.de/img/photov5uz5.jpg
http://www.abload.de/img/photo2sru9a.jpg

If there is no burned mark, I think connector board is defective when it's deliverd.

Sincerely

- accessorieswhole

I am work right now, so I was only able to click on the first 2 links. The last 2 are blocked by our proxy.

Took apart the monitor last night and after looking at only the first 2 pics, everything seems fine. If anyone could please go to the last 2 links and post the pics they want me to see, I would really appreciate it! Thanks!


----------



## Descadent

it's just showing burn marks on back of the board behind the mofset


----------



## Dustin1

Well I got my Crossover today. Only 1 stuck/dead pixel, which is perfectly acceptable for me. However, when I went to turn my PC on a second time and loaded into Windows my monitor went all ASDFGERGHFGHDRTJGHNCVNSETYHRGHDFGH and had a bunch of vertical discoloration across the entire display... Restarted, seems fine. Any ideas, or should I not worry about it?


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> Well I got my Crossover today. Only 1 stuck/dead pixel, which is perfectly acceptable for me. However, when I went to turn my PC on a second time and loaded into Windows my monitor went all ASDFGERGHFGHDRTJGHNCVNSETYHRGHDFGH and had a bunch of vertical discoloration across the entire display... Restarted, seems fine. Any ideas, or should I not worry about it?


Mine did the same thing. I would contact AW! I'm still waiting to hear from them on my monitor. It could happen again. I tried restarting like you did and that did nothing. You can see the picture I posted back a few posts. It sounds just like what you are describing. Did you order yours from AW???


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Mine did the same thing. I would contact AW! I'm still waiting to hear from them on my monitor. It could happen again. I tried restarting like you did and that did nothing. You can see the picture I posted back a few posts. It sounds just like what you are describing. Did you order yours from AW???


If I can reproduce the problem I'll gladly post pictures. I'll look back and see if it's the same. But no, I ordered mine from Green-Sum.

Edit : No mine didn't that. It was MUCH worse than that, and I mean a LOT worse. But it still works.


----------



## timcee

Loving my Crossover so far! I'm just calibrating it with spyderpro and it has asked me what backlight the monitor is - Fluorescent CCFL, White LED or RGB LED. Can anyone tell me which one it is for these screens?

Thanks


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timcee*
> 
> Loving my Crossover so far! I'm just calibrating it with spyderpro and it has asked me what backlight the monitor is - Fluorescent CCFL, White LED or RGB LED. Can anyone tell me which one it is for these screens?
> 
> Thanks


White LED


----------



## a1qwyx20

Anyone know where I can get some white LEDs for this moniter?


----------



## rho86

I just wanted to update my experiences with the seller "bigclothcraft". They provided excellent customer service for the monitor whine issue I was experiencing. They shipped out another monitor PCB upon request, which solved the issue.

Just wanted to throw it out there, bigclothcraft is a great seller, and I may purchase with them again if I get another Crossover. Also my monitor was advertised as "perfect pixel" and that description was accurate. Other than the monitor whine, my unit arrived with zero dead pixels, zero bright pixels, and no obvious or glaring tint/color/uniformity issues.


----------



## rho86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a1qwyx20*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get some white LEDs for this moniter?


For what purpose? To replace the LED back light? To provide ambient lighting for the display?


----------



## RGiskard

I'm having trouble with a 27Q which I received last week for a new system build.

Whatever I do, it looks like a monitor does when it has bad gamma settings. Here's an example, from the `download Origin`page.



I've tuned the gamma settings using this chart, to no avail. http://www.phototopics.net/use_quickgamma.html

Since this is a new build, and I don`t have another display that can connect to my new graphics card, it is difficult for me to tell where the problem may lie. Maybe it`s the graphics card, or the display, or even the cable. I have no idea.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: Forgot to mention, I already tried the profile from cloudz00x as well. No dice








Edit 2: Damn, forgot to include my system build. Here it is. http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/GsRu


----------



## Dustin1

So this is what my monitor is doing... Takes a few restarts to fix but it eventually works just fine. I haven't tried using my other GPU yet but it didn't start doing this until I got my Crossover. I've already tried 2 different DVI-D cables, etc.. Only thing I haven't tried is my 2nd GPU. Which I'm wanting second opinions because I think my monitor may be defective.


Spoiler: CROSSOVER ISSUES **PICTURE HEAVY**















Anyone got an opinion they wanna share? I'm totally lost...


----------



## Lholozon86

I am having problems with my Crossover monitor. Nothing is showing on the screen, it's just black, but the blue light is still showing. I don't know if it is the GPU issue or something else, it could be. I have been using my 22" 720p TV and it sucks lol. I miss my monitor.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well I'm back after a few months of no issues because I decided to buy another Crossover. I was originally very active on this thread when we were all trying to figure out what was going on with the backlight dying and the PCB variations that were responsible. I thought it would be great to do dual Crossovers, so I went for it. Within an hour of using my new monitor, the screen went black and rendered no display. My computer still thinks its working (the monitor is detected) and the back light is still on (so not the famous back light PCB burnout issue that I had with my first Crossover) but a whole new problem. I've contacted my seller and I must say I am extremely devastated to have this happen again. I have tried the following options:
> 
> 3 DVI cables
> 3 different power supplies (the one it came with, the one my other crossover came with, and one from a Shimian that was exactly the same)
> Both DVI ports on my computer (Radeon 7970, one DVI port and one mini-displayport with the expensive adapter)
> My roommates computer (GTX 560 Ti)
> 
> I had been running dual 27" IPS's for a while now, just one was a Shimian and one was a Crossover, and I really wanted to get a matching pair. So i had found someone to buy the Shimian and was going to do that swap. I only mention this because I want to verify that my setup is able to handle two of these panels without a problem. I suspect something is wrong with the primary PCB, the one where the connections are made, and will need to be replaced; but if anyone has any suggestions I can try while I wait at my seller's mercy yet again it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Also, to make the situation more confusing, I randomly tried firing it up again, power cycling it several times rapidly and it actually came on and was working after having been dead for a few hours, not to mention the first dozen or so attempts immediately preceding. So naturally I decided to cycle it one more time (it was living on borrowed time anyway) to see how it would behave, to which it returned to the blank screen with the back light on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> My Crossover 27Q has developed the same blackout problem after two weeks of usage. At my seller's request, I opened it to examine the innards. The LED driver board (small one mounted on the side) and the connector board (square one mounted in the center) both looked okay. I noticed a screw was missing on the lid at the top edge of the monitor. (See red circle on first photo.) I took off that lid. It covers three more boards. Two of them are long and slim. The larger one sitting below them had two splotches of what looked like white molten wax to me, which seems to come from cylindrical parts mounted onto the board. (See second photo.) Are there capacitors filled with such white stuff? Keep in mind that while it doesn't look right to me, I do not know whether this is actually a defect, and whether it is the cause of the blackouts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone who knows about electronics, your insights concerning the white splotches are welcome.
> 
> You can see a (low quality) video of the blackout here:
> 
> http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=30a973n&s=6
> 
> The characteristic thing is that the blackout onset is not instantaneous. It takes about half a second to a full second for the blackout to engulf the entire screen. It is like power fading from the monitor, like an LED on some stereo equipment that consumes what's left in a capacitor before dieing off, just quicker.
> 
> This effect is a bit disconcerting. I've never seen such a blackout on any monitor at all. Neither on television sets. It certainly doesn't rhyme with quality. Might be bad luck, but a missing screw and squashed whatnot on a PCB, hmm &#8230;
> 
> I trust the cause of the blackout will be found and the fault repaired. I bought from the seller enjoying the best reputation on this forum.
> 
> I do not yet regret purchasing the monitor as the image is truly beautiful. Only one dead pixel on the side (hardly noticeable), and a slight yellow tint, none of which bothers me. But occasional blackouts do, as they are foreboding of an eventual final blackout.


I apologize for writing this again, I to am experiencing blackouts on my monitor, well a bit differently though, because this time my monitor isn't showing a thing, it would like flicker to the screen and then off, if that's what you call a blackout. I would restart the computer with the monitor showing the windows logo loading screen and then black again. Right now it's just not showing anything. I attempted the same thing about 2 hours ago, disconnected things, fiddle around, and did see that I was also missing a screw. UGH, don't know what to do, I miss my monitor!!


----------



## timcee

Thanks for that TarballX much appreciated


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> So this is what my monitor is doing... Takes a few restarts to fix but it eventually works just fine. I haven't tried using my other GPU yet but it didn't start doing this until I got my Crossover. I've already tried 2 different DVI-D cables, etc.. Only thing I haven't tried is my 2nd GPU. Which I'm wanting second opinions because I think my monitor may be defective.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: CROSSOVER ISSUES **PICTURE HEAVY**
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone got an opinion they wanna share? I'm totally lost...


I've contacted my seller with no response yet. I see others having issues similar to mine but I haven't found anyone with the issues I've been having, so I'm even more lost lol.


----------



## a1qwyx20

To replace the LED lights in the moniter because i broke some of them


----------



## philharmonik

I finally heard back from AW. They apologized for the late reply due to being closed on the weekend. They are sending me a new PCB board to swap out with my current one.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> I finally heard back from AW. They apologized for the late reply due to being closed on the weekend. They are sending me a new PCB board to swap out with my current one.


hope that's it! you'll have the new pcb prob by tuesday our time. if they get it shipped out right now since it's monday a.m there.

that's how it was for me when I got a power supply on one of my 3 that died after 20mins. next day air from korea... insane


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> The internals of my monitor appear exactly the same as yours (the white adhesive and the missing screw) but I don't think that is abnormal. My other crossover, which after getting the LED PCB exchanged, has been working fine for about 6 months, and it too is missing that screw. I never lifted up the plate on that one t o check the LG boards however, but I suspect they all have that adhesive that can be a normal finding in electronics.
> 
> The symptoms of my screen don't quite sound the same as yours. Mine seems to be an issue with the monitor sending the actual display data to the panel. So far I've been able to get the monitor start in about 1/50 power cycles (3 successful starts so far) and once its started its fine and has no issues. But if let the computer sleep or power cycle the monitor the problem returns. The display is blanked out immediately upon restarting, with no picture ever displaying. The backlight and brightness adjustments work normally.


Thanks for your precise feedback.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> I inspected all my PCBs and see no evidence of overheating or damage. I'm wondering now if I its the main crossover PCB or some of the LG circuitry tucked under that metal panel.


Here's two more videos of my monitor fading out. The second one is a bit longish, but it features a Star Trek video to compensate for that.







Unfortunately, most of the time it is blacked out









http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2z3s5eh&s=6
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=pujv9&s=6

Does anyone of you blackout guys also have this quick fade out effect?


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> Thanks for your precise feedback.
> Here's two more videos of my monitor fading out. The second one is a bit longish, but it features a Star Trek video to compensate for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, most of the time it is blacked out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2z3s5eh&s=6
> http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=pujv9&s=6
> 
> Does anyone of you blackout guys also have this quick fade out effect?


See the pictures in my posts. Mine fades out slowly instead of quickly though.


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> hope that's it! you'll have the new pcb prob by tuesday our time. if they get it shipped out right now since it's monday a.m there.
> 
> that's how it was for me when I got a power supply on one of my 3 that died after 20mins. next day air from korea... insane


Yeah, their shipping is unreal!


----------



## philharmonik

AW sent me the tracking number this morning. The PCB will be here tomorrow!


----------



## Descadent

Told you


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Told you


I didn't realize they don't work weekends, and I was starting to go into panic mode.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Well I'm back after a few months of no issues because I decided to buy another Crossover. I was originally very active on this thread when we were all trying to figure out what was going on with the backlight dying and the PCB variations that were responsible. I thought it would be great to do dual Crossovers, so I went for it. Within an hour of using my new monitor, the screen went black and rendered no display. My computer still thinks its working (the monitor is detected) and the back light is still on (so not the famous back light PCB burnout issue that I had with my first Crossover) but a whole new problem. I've contacted my seller and I must say I am extremely devastated to have this happen again. I have tried the following options:
> 
> 3 DVI cables
> 3 different power supplies (the one it came with, the one my other crossover came with, and one from a Shimian that was exactly the same)
> Both DVI ports on my computer (Radeon 7970, one DVI port and one mini-displayport with the expensive adapter)
> My roommates computer (GTX 560 Ti)
> 
> I had been running dual 27" IPS's for a while now, just one was a Shimian and one was a Crossover, and I really wanted to get a matching pair. So i had found someone to buy the Shimian and was going to do that swap. I only mention this because I want to verify that my setup is able to handle two of these panels without a problem. I suspect something is wrong with the primary PCB, the one where the connections are made, and will need to be replaced; but if anyone has any suggestions I can try while I wait at my seller's mercy yet again it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Also, to make the situation more confusing, I randomly tried firing it up again, power cycling it several times rapidly and it actually came on and was working after having been dead for a few hours, not to mention the first dozen or so attempts immediately preceding. So naturally I decided to cycle it one more time (it was living on borrowed time anyway) to see how it would behave, to which it returned to the blank screen with the back light on.


Well red-cap apparently will be sending me a new PCB. I've been trying to get them to clarify which PCB they are sending (since I'm afraid they might just send me the LED PCB again) but I suppose I should give them some more credit. However since the initial problem developed I have learned some more information.

It appears that the monitor struggles only after its been powered on for a period of time, requiring many (50+) power cycles before I can get a picture. This is why it seems to only happens after say, my computer has fallen asleep after an hour of use and I try to wake it up a few minutes later. However, if the monitor has been off for an hour or so, resulting in the monitor being off, and has had some time to cool down, (or at least that's what I suspect is wrong), it works first try. It always starts first thing in the morning, and if I turn everything off before I leave the house it seems to start right up when I return. I suspect its a heat related issue but was not able to identify any areas of heat damage on the PCB itself.


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> See the pictures in my posts. Mine fades out slowly instead of quickly though.


So the pictures would be here, just 1 day, 17 hours ago:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/5220#post_19480148
From what's discernible in the picture, this doesn't look like what's in my videos.
As for a description, you wrote:
»&#8230; my monitor went all ASDFGERGHFGHDRTJGHNCVNSETYHRGHDFGH and had a bunch of vertical discoloration across the entire display... Restarted, seems fine.«
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/5210#post_19473028
So this left me rather clueless as to what bedevils your monitor, but I guess it's just difficult to convey without also showing a video for illustration.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> So the pictures would be here, just 1 day, 17 hours ago:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/5220#post_19480148
> From what's discernible in the picture, this doesn't look like what's in my videos.
> As for a description, you wrote:
> »&#8230; my monitor went all ASDFGERGHFGHDRTJGHNCVNSETYHRGHDFGH and had a bunch of vertical discoloration across the entire display... Restarted, seems fine.«
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/5210#post_19473028
> So this left me rather clueless as to what bedevils your monitor, but I guess it's just difficult to convey without also showing a video for illustration.


I'm uploading a video right now as we type.

Edit : http://tinypic.com/r/2yyy3ph/6

Roughly a minute and thirty seconds long. I was trying to record and hold my daughter at the same time which she didn't like sitting still at the time, haha.


----------



## MrBox

Just an update on my order of the 27Q LED-P

was packaged well, but has a big deep gouge on the screen itself!

I ordered mine from green-sum. I messaged him on eBay today to see how he will exchange this. No reply back yet.

Any tips on how I should handle this if I don't hear back within the next day?

The monitor looks amazing minus the dang gouge. It's deep and no way to fix it.


----------



## Descadent

ouch. send it back for sure. get a replacement.


----------



## yarrh

Seems like there's been a surge of problems lately.

I think it would help us all if those experiencing new problems would say how long they've had their crossovers.

Perhaps these monitors have a short lifespan and the oldest ones are going?

Just a thought


----------



## cybermantas

Hi, I am a new member at OCN and I joined just to post my problem about the Crossover. I ordered mine on 22 Feb from AccessoriesWhole (the best in the business) and installed it on 3rd Feb. It worked fine for about 5 odd days and then started to blackout. By that I mean, it would be showing display normally, and then randomly dim out and disappear. The blue light would be on, and you can see the panel is also on (some whitish glow from the screen showing that its on, its not perfectly black as it is when the monitor is actually switched off).

For the first few times, a single restart of the monitor solved the problem. Its been 2 days now though, and now it's completely unusable. Blackouts within 15 seconds of switching on, and once the problem appears, no amount of on/off on the monitor help (tried about 10-15 times).

Any ideas if this is the PCB issue ? I have written to AW twice in last 2 days, yet to hear from him. Planning to put in a negative feedback if I dont hear from him by tomorrow (mentioned this in my last communication to him... he had earlier responded to me 2-3 times during my purchase).

Any help guys ? Thanks in advance


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> Seems like there's been a surge of problems lately.
> 
> I think it would help us all if those experiencing new problems would say how long they've had their crossovers.
> 
> Perhaps these monitors have a short lifespan and the oldest ones are going?
> 
> Just a thought


anything can happen when fedex throws it around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybermantas*
> 
> Hi, I am a new member at OCN and I joined just to post my problem about the Crossover. I ordered mine on 22 Feb from AccessoriesWhole (the best in the business) and installed it on 3rd Feb. It worked fine for about 5 odd days and then started to blackout. By that I mean, it would be showing display normally, and then randomly dim out and disappear. The blue light would be on, and you can see the panel is also on (some whitish glow from the screen showing that its on, its not perfectly black as it is when the monitor is actually switched off).
> 
> For the first few times, a single restart of the monitor solved the problem. Its been 2 days now though, and now it's completely unusable. Blackouts within 15 seconds of switching on, and once the problem appears, no amount of on/off on the monitor help (tried about 10-15 times).
> 
> Any ideas if this is the PCB issue ? I have written to AW twice in last 2 days, yet to hear from him. Planning to put in a negative feedback if I dont hear from him by tomorrow (mentioned this in my last communication to him... he had earlier responded to me 2-3 times during my purchase).
> 
> Any help guys ? Thanks in advance


well they don't work on weekends so that's why you didn't hear from them.have you opened it up to look at the pcb to see if it has burn spots?

no sense in putting negative feedback, that's not how the system works. Leaving them negative feedback out the gate won't help you get a solution. Gotta give them the opportunity, try messaging them again. There are other people who posted before you who have contacted them after the weekend. Try again and give them the chance. They are best seller on ebay and only top seller for a reason, but they are human so write them again.

but they will still want you to open it up and look at the pcb first. couple of screws, takes a few mins. simple


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybermantas*
> 
> Hi, I am a new member at OCN and I joined just to post my problem about the Crossover. I ordered mine on 22 Feb from AccessoriesWhole (the best in the business) and installed it on 3rd Feb. It worked fine for about 5 odd days and then started to blackout. By that I mean, it would be showing display normally, and then randomly dim out and disappear. The blue light would be on, and you can see the panel is also on (some whitish glow from the screen showing that its on, its not perfectly black as it is when the monitor is actually switched off).
> 
> For the first few times, a single restart of the monitor solved the problem. Its been 2 days now though, and now it's completely unusable. Blackouts within 15 seconds of switching on, and once the problem appears, no amount of on/off on the monitor help (tried about 10-15 times).
> 
> Any ideas if this is the PCB issue ? I have written to AW twice in last 2 days, yet to hear from him. Planning to put in a negative feedback if I dont hear from him by tomorrow (mentioned this in my last communication to him... he had earlier responded to me 2-3 times during my purchase).
> 
> Any help guys ? Thanks in advance


You seem to be having the same problem I am, I ordered my crossover in the beginning of March. It seems the recent batch is having a problem with the main PCB causing blackouts where the panel turns on (backlight visible) and the power indicator works normally, but the screen remains blank. It seems to be variable, as I can get mine to start in about 1/50 power cycles.

My seller has just shipped me a replacement mainboard PCB (not the LED controller like the batch of crossover's had from months ago). I will report back here and let you guys know what my findings are, it should arrive by the end of the week. My seller has indicated that this is a "green" pcb. The one currently in my monitor is teal (this sounds just like the LED controller issue I know but I have been assured they are referring to the main PCB as am I) so maybe there is another bad PCB variant that has been circulated around recently that's responsible for the influx of issues we are seeing.


----------



## Dustin1

Green-Sum finally got back with me and said that we needed to exchange my monitor. So far so good. As per above, give them time because Monday morning is when I received my first message and I've gotten messages back very promptly after that.


----------



## MrBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBox*
> 
> Just an update on my order of the 27Q LED-P
> 
> was packaged well, but has a big deep gouge on the screen itself!
> 
> I ordered mine from green-sum. I messaged him on eBay today to see how he will exchange this. No reply back yet.
> 
> Any tips on how I should handle this if I don't hear back within the next day?
> 
> The monitor looks amazing minus the dang gouge. It's deep and no way to fix it.


Okay so green-sum got back to me overnight. They are going to exchange it for a new one. They just had me send them pics of the scratch, serial number, and the packaging materials that DHL used. It was DHL's fault after looking at everything closely.

So green-sum is going to claim it on DHL, and they are covering my return shipping costs (which they didn't have to do per the ebay agreement). I'm very pleased with the fast customer service. I just hope the next one comes unharmed









I can recommend green-sum if you are ordering one, as it was 100% DHL's fault on this. The monitor was packaged wonderfully, but obviously handled VERY roughly.


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> You seem to be having the same problem I am, I ordered my crossover in the beginning of March. It seems the recent batch is having a problem with the main PCB causing blackouts where the panel turns on (backlight visible) and the power indicator works normally, but the screen remains blank. It seems to be variable, as I can get mine to start in about 1/50 power cycles.


Mine does much better, it starts fine mostly, but it's entirely random for how long it will last, one hour, six hours, fifteen minutes, five minutes, ten seconds, you name it, the monitor does it.

A bad batch, just what I thought. There's now at least four of us with this issue on this forum: you, me, cybermantas, and another user who contacted me privately.

Let's refer to this as the *dim out / fade out / black out issue*.

Dustin1's issue (thanks for the video) looks rather like a *stripe issue*, so dissimilar in appearance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> My seller has just shipped me a replacement mainboard PCB (not the LED controller like the batch of crossover's had from months ago). I will report back here &#8230;


Thanks. Guess they'll have to send out lots of new PCBs &#8230;


----------



## cybermantas

#Uberglock , thanks for your PMs. I have reached my daily limit, hence cant reply through PM.

#Descadent , thanks for your response. My both messages were sent on weekdays. I am happy to update though that AW did contact me and as you implied, they asked me to look at the PCBs. I unscrewed and took pictures, which I am also attaching below. There were 2 green PCBs and 1 blue PCB. In my case, I think its one of the green ones that is at fault. Kindly help me confirm if thats the case.

I have already sent the pictures to AW. The video of the malfunction is slightly big in size (~40 Mb, taken using Samsung Galaxy S), so I am still figuring out how to post it...

Pictures


----------



## Descadent

everything looks fine to the eye. upload video to youtube to send it to them.


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybermantas*
> 
> The video of the malfunction is slightly big in size (~40 Mb, taken using Samsung Galaxy S), so I am still figuring out how to post it...


You could download FFmpeg and then convert your video as follows:

ffmpeg -i your.vid -vf scale=iw/2:-1 -an out.mp4

This will reduce your input video (-i) in resolution to one quarter of the input resolution (-vf &#8230, get rid of the audio (-an), transcode your video using the default encoder (probably libx264), and put the result in an MP4 container. If you want to keep the audio, just leave out the -an switch.


----------



## philharmonik

Yeah buddy!!
































Swapped out the PCB and all is good! Wow! The picture quality on this baby is AMAZING! I've only played like 30 minutes of Tomb Raider, and already, mind=blown!!


----------



## Qu1ckset

So today, when i turned on my computer to do some Web browsing, I noticed backlight flickering, which was annoying but whatever, I shut my computer down to make dinner, and when I turn it back on to play some games the actual panel will not turn on, the power indicator turned solid blue which means it should be on and has signal but the panel is dead.

I even turn the brightness up and down the led indicator shows that feature is working. When I turn the monitor on and off I see the panel slightly try and turn on but doesn't.

I purchased my panel on July 5th 2012, so it's still under the one year warranty, I contacted red-cap just waiting on my reply.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So today, when i turned on my computer to do some Web browsing, I noticed backlight flickering, which was annoying but whatever, I shut my computer down to make dinner, and when I turn it back on to play some games the actual panel will not turn on, the power indicator turned solid blue which means it should be on and has signal but the panel is dead.
> 
> I even turn the brightness up and down the led indicator shows that feature is working. When I turn the monitor on and off I see the panel slightly try and turn on but doesn't.
> 
> I purchased my panel on July 5th 2012, so it's still under the one year warranty, I contacted red-cap just waiting on my reply.


sounds like you got the old pcb. hopefully he'll replace it. goodluck


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Yeah buddy!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swapped out the PCB and all is good! Wow! The picture quality on this baby is AMAZING! I've only played like 30 minutes of Tomb Raider, and already, mind=blown!!


Find cloud's color profile and it makes it even better imo. It's in this thread and he has a review thread for the crossover with it in it.


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So today, when i turned on my computer to do some Web browsing, I noticed backlight flickering, which was annoying but whatever, I shut my computer down to make dinner, and when I turn it back on to play some games the actual panel will not turn on, the power indicator turned solid blue which means it should be on and has signal but the panel is dead.
> 
> I even turn the brightness up and down the led indicator shows that feature is working. When I turn the monitor on and off I see the panel slightly try and turn on but doesn't.
> 
> I purchased my panel on July 5th 2012, so it's still under the one year warranty, I contacted red-cap just waiting on my reply.


Same with me bro lol, I contacted green-sum, said I should post pictures of video of the problem and send him.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> Same with me bro lol, I contacted green-sum, said I should post pictures of video of the problem and send him.


Is he going to send you a replacement??


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is he going to send you a replacement??


I believe so. He said something regarding a replacement and he's also replacing my Crossover as well. Free of charge!


----------



## cybermantas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Yeah buddy!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Swapped out the PCB and all is good! Wow! The picture quality on this baby is AMAZING! I've only played like 30 minutes of Tomb Raider, and already, mind=blown!!


#philharmonik, Which color PCB was a problem for you ? Which of 3 was at fault ? AW sent you to replace only the one at fault ? Have you made a video of the replacement process ? Thanks


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybermantas*
> 
> #philharmonik, Which color PCB was a problem for you ? Which of 3 was at fault ? AW sent you to replace only the one at fault ? Have you made a video of the replacement process ? Thanks


This is the one that they replaced. They sent the same exact model to change it out with.



I did not make a video of the process, but its very easy. Just take out all screws around the edges on the back, and carefully pull it open. Someone else may have easier instructions, but I had no problems at all. Just mind the wires that are connected when you open the back.


----------



## alexslx

Do you guys think that theses monitors from crossover will be updated to new revisions? I'm asking that because I have a lot of fear about buying a monitor with issues...

Anyone here know about their timeline to release new models? When these monitors started being sold?


----------



## cybermantas

#philharmonik, I dont see any problem with the blue PCB. Can you tell me if there was anything wrong with the blue PCB that was replaced ? I have posted pictures of my PCBs on the previous page... the top Green PCB in my monitor has some white solid formed around 2 capacitors. I believe that to be the issue in my case, can anyone confirm ?


----------



## coolxal

Hmm, seems like we should wait a few weeks before buying so the sellers can sort out this bad batch.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexslx*
> 
> Do you guys think that theses monitors from crossover will be updated to new revisions? I'm asking that because I have a lot of fear about buying a monitor with issues...
> 
> Anyone here know about their timeline to release new models? When these monitors started being sold?


no but anything happens during shipping all way from korea.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybermantas*
> 
> #philharmonik, I dont see any problem with the blue PCB. Can you tell me if there was anything wrong with the blue PCB that was replaced ? I have posted pictures of my PCBs on the previous page... the top Green PCB in my monitor has some white solid formed around 2 capacitors. I believe that to be the issue in my case, can anyone confirm ?


that is not the same board as he posted.


----------



## cybermantas

#Descadent, no, its not. The photo is actually the pic of my PCB, on which I wanted some feedback. Anyway, Accessorieswhole saw the pic and replied that this is just some glue and not at fault. AW has suggested that the blue PCB is at fault, and will probably send a replacement. Will update as required..


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alexslx*
> 
> Do you guys think that theses monitors from crossover will be updated to new revisions? I'm asking that because I have a lot of fear about buying a monitor with issues...
> 
> Anyone here know about their timeline to release new models? When these monitors started being sold?


You're always gonna run the risk of something like this happening. A few months ago it was the same issue except with the LED controller. The important thing is that you be patient and purchase from a good seller who is willing to help you and replace your monitor or send you replacement parts.

That being said, the serial number on my monitor indicates it was a January 2013 model (201301...). It would be interesting to have the others with the problem report when theirs were manufactured.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybermantas*
> 
> #Descadent, no, its not. The photo is actually the pic of my PCB, on which I wanted some feedback. Anyway, Accessorieswhole saw the pic and replied that this is just some glue and not at fault. AW has suggested that the blue PCB is at fault, and will probably send a replacement. Will update as required..


Why are you hashtagging? And from looks of your pic vs his it is different. Don't worry AW will get you fixed up.


----------



## MrBox

Another update to my exchange with green-sum.

They have been excellent in responding quickly and handling everything for me. I sent them pics of the damaged screen, box, etc, and they are handling the DHL claim and shipping for me. I am upset that I don't have a working monitor yet, but at least I won't be out $390. Once DHL picks up the busted panel, GS will send out a new one to me directly and pay the shipping.


----------



## Dustin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBox*
> 
> Another update to my exchange with green-sum.
> 
> They have been excellent in responding quickly and handling everything for me. I sent them pics of the damaged screen, box, etc, and they are handling the DHL claim and shipping for me. I am upset that I don't have a working monitor yet, but at least I won't be out $390. Once DHL picks up the busted panel, GS will send out a new one to me directly and pay the shipping.


He's doing the same thing for me. He's definitely an awesome seller so far, very, very awesome!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Dear.qu1ckset
> 
> Sorry if you feel uncomfortable with using the monitor.
> 
> You have two options now. please select one.
> 
> 1. We can send PCB if you pay for it as $30.
> you can change PCB, we can send the direction how to open the panel etc.)
> We let you know PCB may not be the reason for the problem.
> 
> 2. We can send your monitor to Crossover and let them fix.
> It is for free.
> 
> but you need to pay round shipping fee for it. ($150)
> We use Fedex for shipping.
> If you can find another shipping company, you can use it also.
> 
> We will wait for your decision,
> Thank you!
> Alice
> 
> Sincerely yours
> Red-Cap


That's the reply I got from red-cap, so I need your guys feedback on what I should do? Take the PCB or shop it for repairs, if I can get away with the $30 fix I'm happy..
So my monitor powers on according to the led indicators, but the actual screen doesn't come on...

So what should I do?


----------



## Descadent

ladies and gentlemen that's your difference with redcap and AW... aw the pcb is free and overnighted from korea....and redcap wants to charge you for it...























Get the pcb. sorry you have to spend $30. but it's better than the $150 and worth the shot before having to ship it out.


----------



## Heidi

Hi guys...just quick question if anyone knows what is like starlinkstore...if they are reliable and any experience dealing with them...


----------



## Descadent

never heard of them


----------



## galaxie83

Really excited. Just ordered me the 27q today from AW! Coming from a 27" Asus. Hope my new evga gtx 670 2gb runs this thing smooth. I know I will eventually have to sli to Max all my games out. But for now I'm content with 30-40fps in most games.


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> ladies and gentlemen that's your difference with redcap and AW... aw the pcb is free and overnighted from korea....and redcap wants to charge you for it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get the pcb. sorry you have to spend $30. but it's better than the $150 and worth the shot before having to ship it out.


I agree! Just pay for the PCB and be done with it. I can attest for AW's support/customer service. The only negative is that they are closed on the weekends. Other than that, I'm so glad I went with AW. As soon as they got back with me they sent the new PCB out for FREE, and it was here the next day!


----------



## philharmonik

I ran the benchmark in Tomb Raider with everything maxed out except AA. I left that disabled. Didn't even need it at this resolution!


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> That's the reply I got from red-cap, so I need your guys feedback on what I should do? Take the PCB or shop it for repairs, if I can get away with the $30 fix I'm happy..
> So my monitor powers on according to the led indicators, but the actual screen doesn't come on...
> 
> So what should I do?


Changing out the LED controller is really easy and definitely the option you should choose. However, I had the exact some problem and also had red-cap as my seller, and I think if you complain and maybe threaten to bring it up with eBay (cause the sale claims a 1 year warranty) he may just send it. You don't actually have a case as after this much time eBay won't do anything, but if you try they might cave. I got my replacement PCB for free (though they sent me the same teal one which died shortly after again). I ended up paying for the second one simply to speed up the process cause I didn't want to jump through all the hoops.

This time I opened up a paypal dispute the second my other Crossover started mainboard failing and they were quick to respond and shipped my replacement PCB the next day for no charge.


----------



## vaned

I just received my 27Q from green-sum. Ordered Friday morning, received Wednesday afternoon. Had to pay DHL $50-some in tax and handling (in Canada).

I noticed that green-sum's one-page troubleshooting guide defines a "dead pixel" as: "We test in Black background... We define Dead pixel as bright dot ... Dark dot and stuck pixel is not handled as a dead pixel. Bright dot only." Very strange definition indeed.

But luckily I have no dead or stuck pixels. There's some minor backlight bleed and the adjustment range on the intensity seems a bit limited. But overall I'm very happy with the monitor..

It took a bit of fiddling to get it running under the Linux Nvidia driver. Apparently the EDID supplied by the monitor (listing resolutions, clock rates &c) has a checksum error. I guess this isn't surprising given the limited design effort that seems to have gone into this thing. I'm guessing the manufacturer changed the make and model strings but neglected to recompute the checksum. I had to add the following line to the Device section of /etc/X11/xorg.conf:

Option "IgnoreEDIDChecksum" "DFP-0"

This made the driver ignore the checksum error and everything worked fine after that.


----------



## tehpsyc

Incredible, my new board arrived today. After insisting and trying to be very clear, they still sent me the LED board, not the main PCB. I installed it anyway just to see, and of course it didn't fix my problem.

This was their last message:
Quote:


> We just sent PCB for you.
> It is green PCB ( not LED one)
> and please confirm the the tracking no. below.
> XXXXXXXXXXX
> 
> Thank you!
> Alice


But it was the green LED PCB. I really don't know how I could have made it more clear to them. I sent a picture, I specified its the largest board with the DVI and power connectors attached to it. This is really frustrating.


----------



## Descadent

potty mouth, but that sucks hope they send you the correct one.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> potty mouth, but that sucks hope they send you the correct one.


Apologies, was frustrated. Edited.


----------



## xV1ral

I've been thinking about purchasing one of these, but reading through the last ten or so pages, they seem to be littered with posts about issues with the monitor. Is this the norm with CrossOvers, or is it just a case of satisfied customers not being as likely to post as dissatisfied ones? Also, how big of a difference can there be between the "pixel perfect" models and the regular ones?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xV1ral*
> 
> I've been thinking about purchasing one of these, but reading through the last ten or so pages, they seem to be littered with posts about issues with the monitor. Is this the norm with CrossOvers, or is it just a case of satisfied customers not being as likely to post as dissatisfied ones? Also, how big of a difference can there be between the "pixel perfect" models and the regular ones?


it's just a couple of mishaps that's all

in regards to pixel perfect vs. regular. please search the thread. we talk about this allllll time and people still ask it. everything you need to know is already in here


----------



## Zaxis01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xV1ral*
> 
> I've been thinking about purchasing one of these, but reading through the last ten or so pages, they seem to be littered with posts about issues with the monitor. Is this the norm with CrossOvers, or is it just a case of satisfied customers not being as likely to post as dissatisfied ones? Also, how big of a difference can there be between the "pixel perfect" models and the regular ones?


Don't let the unfortunate circumstances of a few discourage you from purchasing a nice monitor.

I picked up a perfect pixel q27 from Ta_Planet and the monitor was on my doorstep in 3 days.

And the screen is amazing. No dead pixels and no backlight bleed.


----------



## smellyfungus

been lurking this thread since sunday, wanted to chime in on my experience. ordered a regular 27q led-p monday morning from green-sum.
after reading more i was not sure if i would regret not buying from aw, didn't read til after the fact about their A panels.
either way i received the crossover today via dhl. it looked well packaged and it looked like they handled it well.
pulling the panel out i was very impressed by the quality, it was better than expected.

used my previous dvi cable and power cord. the power brick had a slight hum but not anything too crazy. runs warm but not hot.

booted up with no issues. very little bleeding, only some in the bottom right corner like others have mentioned.
from what i could tell no stuck pixels. colors seemed fairly good out of the box so i decided not to use any color profiles. my whites were already warm and though inexperienced i checked thru a few calibration test and things looked solid. there is some slight color unevenness that is only noticeable when the screen's entirely white (where some of it is slightly more yellowish the other parts), not a big deal though.

setting brightness is a little wonky since theres no indicator, i just turned down the brightness to where it was comfy for my environment.

overall im happy that i've had a smooth experience so far and am quite enjoying the big space upgrade from my dell 2209wa (1680x1050).

so for those who have been nervous about the latest panel issues or anything else, i want to let you know that there are still good panels out there.

green-sum is highly recommended based on shipping speed and package quality.
ill post again if i have any issues, otherwise im gonna go back to lurking.


----------



## rho86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xV1ral*
> 
> I've been thinking about purchasing one of these, but reading through the last ten or so pages, they seem to be littered with posts about issues with the monitor. Is this the norm with CrossOvers, or is it just a case of satisfied customers not being as likely to post as dissatisfied ones? Also, how big of a difference can there be between the "pixel perfect" models and the regular ones?


Also if there is a problem, most good sellers will work with you to resolve the problem. I think you can buy with confidence, but choose one of the top recommended sellers.


----------



## Lholozon86

I got a reply from Green-Sum regarding my monitor issues.

Dear lholozon_86,

Hello,
If you would like us to check your monitor to diagnose the problem, you need to send it to us.
If you can fix it by your self, if you are technical enough, you can order the part from us.
Let us know serial number of your monitor and send us the picture you need to replace.
We are not sure which part is having the issue through your explanation.
In terms of international transaction, shipping back and forth may take time, let us know if you would like to send it back.
I will inform you shipping address where you need to ship to.

Regarding the part, there is only one type of board which is green color.
Refer the attached photo.
Thank you.

- green-sum

I assume it's the green PCB, I don't know what to do, I don't want to ship it back, it might take too much time. What should I do? Should I get that green board? Or explain to the seller in broader detail? Or send it back?


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> I got a reply from Green-Sum regarding my monitor issues.
> 
> Dear lholozon_86,
> 
> Hello,
> If you would like us to check your monitor to diagnose the problem, you need to send it to us.
> If you can fix it by your self, if you are technical enough, you can order the part from us.
> Let us know serial number of your monitor and send us the picture you need to replace.
> We are not sure which part is having the issue through your explanation.
> In terms of international transaction, shipping back and forth may take time, let us know if you would like to send it back.
> I will inform you shipping address where you need to ship to.
> 
> Regarding the part, there is only one type of board which is green color.
> Refer the attached photo.
> Thank you.
> 
> - green-sum
> 
> I assume it's the green PCB, I don't know what to do, I don't want to ship it back, it might take too much time. What should I do? Should I get that green board? Or explain to the seller in broader detail? Or send it back?


Just get the board!


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> I got a reply from Green-Sum regarding my monitor issues.
> 
> Dear lholozon_86,
> 
> Hello,
> If you would like us to check your monitor to diagnose the problem, you need to send it to us.
> If you can fix it by your self, if you are technical enough, you can order the part from us.
> Let us know serial number of your monitor and send us the picture you need to replace.
> We are not sure which part is having the issue through your explanation.
> In terms of international transaction, shipping back and forth may take time, let us know if you would like to send it back.
> I will inform you shipping address where you need to ship to.
> 
> Regarding the part, there is only one type of board which is green color.
> Refer the attached photo.
> Thank you.
> 
> - green-sum
> 
> I assume it's the green PCB, I don't know what to do, I don't want to ship it back, it might take too much time. What should I do? Should I get that green board? Or explain to the seller in broader detail? Or send it back?


easier to do it yourself. do exactly what they say send picture etc. get the new board


----------



## Lholozon86

Thank you, I think I will get it
Merci, je pense que je vais la trouver
Gracias, creo que voy a consiguirlo


----------



## Irythros

Ordered from AW on monday at around 11pm my time. It shipped out soon after and got here yesterday (was at the end distributor wednesday) so South Korea to NC in 2 days is quite awesome. It took Newegg the same time to go from Tennessee to NC.

When I was able to use it (had rest of the computer to setup) holy crap my eyes burned out. This thing is stupidly bright at stock levels. BUT ITS SO BEAUTIFUL!








AW even included a US plug adapter even though I forgot to mention it. I was afraid I'd have to overnight one. Dead pixels? None. I cant find any. Not one. Didn't order a pixel guarantee either.

Overall very happy.


----------



## rubin110

Hi all.

So I just bought and received a 2720MDP from Astrobile and totally didn't bother searching the net for feedback on this seller. Go me!

The display mostly works over just Displayport, about 4 or 5 dead pixels. Unfortunately if I do anything that involves fast motion (like playing a video), the display will blank out with the power LED still on after a few seconds to a minute or two. Even a video off of YouTube can get it to crap out eventually.

I'm wondering what to do next. I have a feeling whatever they're doing to run Displayport is garbage, and I might possibly have better luck using a Displayport to DVI dual link adapter. Any other suggestions?

Has anyone been able to get Astrobile to do anything when you've reported a problem with your display?

Thanks!


----------



## Lholozon86

Well it looks as if Green-Sum doesn't give away PCBs for free, and I have to wait till Monday, ugh. Do you know any seller that gives away PCBs for free? If not I guess I just have to bare with it.


----------



## rubin110

So I have an inkling of a feeling whatever board is driving the display is over heating, as it takes a little bit of time for the thing to "warm up" before shutting off. Here's a video of the issue...


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lholozon86*
> 
> Well it looks as if Green-Sum doesn't give away PCBs for free, and I have to wait till Monday, ugh. Do you know any seller that gives away PCBs for free? If not I guess I just have to bare with it.


We were juat talking about this within last two pagea.

AW gives pcb's for free if you buy the monitor through them of course. Its part of the warranty and small reason why they will stay number 1


----------



## Lholozon86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> We were juat talking about this within last two pagea.
> 
> AW gives pcb's for free if you buy the monitor through them of course. Its part of the warranty and small reason why they will stay number 1


I know you were talking about AW being number 1 and all, but I thought green-sum would include that within the warranty. I don't think all sellers charge for PCB, maybe some do. Whatever I'm going to take the chance and pay for it, it would hurt. But yeah it sucks having to wait till Monday. Was playing Tomb Raider last night, maxed it out and everything, hoping to see it on my crossover. Ugh.


----------



## Descadent

I've read green sum has replaced it for free sometimes, but AW always does.


----------



## kalmychkov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubin110*
> 
> Hi all.
> 
> So I just bought and received a 2720MDP from Astrobile and totally didn't bother searching the net for feedback on this seller. Go me!
> 
> The display mostly works over just Displayport, about 4 or 5 dead pixels. Unfortunately if I do anything that involves fast motion (like playing a video), the display will blank out with the power LED still on after a few seconds to a minute or two. Even a video off of YouTube can get it to crap out eventually.
> 
> I'm wondering what to do next. I have a feeling whatever they're doing to run Displayport is garbage, and I might possibly have better luck using a Displayport to DVI dual link adapter. Any other suggestions?
> 
> Has anyone been able to get Astrobile to do anything when you've reported a problem with your display?
> 
> Thanks!


Looks like you got burned for being lazy and not doing the homework, that's why there are 530 pages in this thread explaining what and from whom to buy. Hopefully your seller is legit and willing to help you. Good luck. Do your home work next time or buy Auria EQ276W from Microcenter if you need a DP, hdmi and dvi all-in-one


----------



## galaxie83

Recieved my crossover from AW. Shipped last Wednesday and received it that Friday. just 3 days! No dead pixels and its not even the perfect pixel version. Only very very minor backlight bleed on the top but barely noticeable. Worked right out of the box with the supplied D-DVI cable.


----------



## Futzy

My crossover developed the fade out issue after shipping it through UPS. I posted about this a while ago here with a video, tried to get UPS to pay for a replacement with no luck, so now I've gotten a replacement LED PCB from AW after inspecting it and finding the burn marks on the front and back as seen in the pictures that AW sends around. That PCB arrived the next day, I installed it and everything seemed to be working fine for the rest of the day, then the next morning, the fade outs returned and now it's doing it intermittently. I've contacted AW about this again, but will this be resolved by replacing the main connection PCB, the big blue one in the center? It seems odd that they would both break. Perhaps the main board was damage during the UPS shipment and then the LED board component burned up as a result?

I see some discussion about this in the last couple pages but no real resolution


----------



## kalmychkov

I went through every single page of this thread. I noticed how many faulty Crossovers people get. I went through only AW's ebay listing and did some simple math; he sold about 1023 27q Crossover monitors (including led-p and regular stand ones, regular and perfect pixel ones). Based on my calculations, the fault rate is anywhere from 5% to 10+%. Seems pretty high

I'm going to hold off and buy an open box Auria from Microcenter with one year warranty for $360 and sleep without nightmares


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalmychkov*
> 
> I went through every single page of this thread. I noticed how many faulty Crossovers people get. I went through only AW's ebay listing and did some simple math; he sold about 1023 27q Crossover monitors (including led-p and regular stand ones, regular and perfect pixel ones). Based on my calculations, the fault rate is anywhere from 5% to 10+%. Seems pretty high
> 
> I'm going to hold off and buy an open box Auria from Microcenter with one year warranty for $360 and sleep without nightmares


suit yourself but not everyone gives feedback on ebay...

and this thread has more than enough positive responses and most of the bad monitors people get don't come from AW, or aren't easily fixed. It's the crappy, noname, not top seller ebay rated sellers who are cheaper that are giving out the worse monitors with worse pixel and panel policies.

there used to be a poll in this thread that had TONS of votes in it that was like 90% people getting zero dead pixels perfect monitors, the rest 2-5 dead pixels, and only 2-3% being completely faulty, but since it has disappeared.


----------



## Wiz33

It's been a while since I was here on this thread. I got a 2720MDP last June and it's been working fine until this weekend. I first notice the brightness flickering a couple days ago and then I lost the picture all of a sudden yesterday. Checking all the cable connection and unplugging and re-attaching the DP cable brought the picture back but then it would randomly lose it again. Powering off and back on works for a while to bring the picture for a bit and it eventually would lose it again. Then this afternoon, I lost the picture completely and can't even get the on-screen menu to come up. I read back quite a few pages but all I saw was the recent post about the fade out problem. Mine just do it instantly, no fading. Luckily this unit is less then a year old so I contacted the seller (BCC) but have not heard back yet. Have anyone experience something like this?

P.S. I have another unit at the office so I'm going to take the PSU home tomorrow to see if it's a PSU problem.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> It's been a while since I was here on this thread. I got a 2720MDP last June and it's been working fine until this weekend. I first notice the brightness flickering a couple days ago and then I lost the picture all of a sudden yesterday. Checking all the cable connection and unplugging and re-attaching the DP cable brought the picture back but then it would randomly lose it again. Powering off and back on works for a while to bring the picture for a bit and it eventually would lose it again. Then this afternoon, I lost the picture completely and can't even get the on-screen menu to come up. I read back quite a few pages but all I saw was the recent post about the fade out problem. Mine just do it instantly, no fading. Luckily this unit is less then a year old so I contacted the seller (BCC) but have not heard back yet. Have anyone experience something like this?
> 
> P.S. I have another unit at the office so I'm going to take the PSU home tomorrow to see if it's a PSU problem.


Backlight flickering is probably the LED PCB dying.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Backlight flickering is probably the LED PCB dying.


I think that might be it as I can still use the select button to get it to change input as it will turn blue at 2 place and red at others (I have both DVI and DP connected). Is there anyway to see if there is still an image on the screen without the backlight? Like in a dark room or if you shine a light on the screen?


----------



## rubin110

Anyone know of a seller that'll sell me a replacement board for the 2720MDP? Sadly Green-Sum will not help me as I didn't by my bunk display from them. :-/


----------



## Descadent

Try AW but again these sellers might not since you didn't buy from them


----------



## Radmanhs

Hey i got a quick question, what is the 1600p equivilant to this monitor? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411 Thanks


----------



## exot

*A note on debezelling the Crossover 2720MDP.*

I recently purchased three of 2720MDP with the intentions of a triple monitor setup in portrait mode. As you can imagine, this was quite an investment and my much of my satisfaction is hinging on how close the monitors can be mounted. After scouring the internet literally for weeks, I found no prior account of anyone removing the bezel from the 2720MDP, but based information on all the other models of the Korean IPS (Catleap, other Crossovers, etc) I was confident that I would have no issue. I was entirely wrong. Soon as I verified the functionality of all three monitors, I went about removing the bezel from the first one.

Debezelling was an easy process, only 4 screws on the outside, then just pop it open at the seam. I was devastated when I opened it up and discovered that the VESA mount is not actually attached directly to the back of the LCD panel.







The VESA mount along with the stand and the input ports and speakers are all embedded into the rear plastic of the bezel. There is no way to remove the plastic bezel and leave these components attached to the LCD panel. I suppose it would only be possible with some extensive and risky modification involving drilling holes into the back metal of the panel
Unless I missed a really important step, this is really a disappointment with the crossover MDP.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> Hey i got a quick question, what is the 1600p equivilant to this monitor? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411 Thanks


Don't think you will find a 27" 2560x1600. You'll have to move up to the 30" one to get that.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exot*
> 
> *A note on debezelling the Crossover 2720MDP.*
> 
> I recently purchased three of 2720MDP with the intentions of a triple monitor setup in portrait mode. As you can imagine, this was quite an investment and my much of my satisfaction is hinging on how close the monitors can be mounted. After scouring the internet literally for weeks, I found no prior account of anyone removing the bezel from the 2720MDP, but based information on all the other models of the Korean IPS (Catleap, other Crossovers, etc) I was confident that I would have no issue. I was entirely wrong. Soon as I verified the functionality of all three monitors, I went about removing the bezel from the first one.
> 
> Debezelling was an easy process, only 4 screws on the outside, then just pop it open at the seam. I was devastated when I opened it up and discovered that the VESA mount is not actually attached directly to the back of the LCD panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The VESA mount along with the stand and the input ports and speakers are all embedded into the rear plastic of the bezel. There is no way to remove the plastic bezel and leave these components attached to the LCD panel. I suppose it would only be possible with some extensive and risky modification involving drilling holes into the back metal of the panel
> Unless I missed a really important step, this is really a disappointment with the crossover MDP.


The is not a crossover problem. Should have came here and asked as I'm sure someone have taken apart a 2720MDP before.


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Don't think you will find a 27" 2560x1600. You'll have to move up to the 30" one to get that.


obviously, I mean the 30' 1600p equivalent


----------



## rubin110

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exot*
> 
> Debezelling was an easy process, only 4 screws on the outside, then just pop it open at the seam. I was devastated when I opened it up and discovered that the VESA mount is not actually attached directly to the back of the LCD panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The VESA mount along with the stand and the input ports and speakers are all embedded into the rear plastic of the bezel. There is no way to remove the plastic bezel and leave these components attached to the LCD panel. I suppose it would only be possible with some extensive and risky modification involving drilling holes into the back metal of the panel.


Did you get yours with the "Pivot" stand? I don't think mine has that problem. Could you by chance take some photos if you decide to take the thing apart again and post it here?


----------



## cybermantas

Update on my Crossover Q27 "blackout" problem from about 5 pages back. Had contacted AW and they said they would supply the replacement PCB (it was the central main PCB, blue originally). Replacement arrived within 3 days, (unfortunately, due to local customs and charges, I had to pay some money for it), replaced it yesterday night, and so far, it has been working fine. Lesse how long it works...

My only concern now seems to be the life of these monitors / parts. When someone buys a Dell / Asus or anything else, u know ur monitor is gonna last really long. My last viewsonic worked for 5.5 yrs ... in this case we dont have a decent history (most products have been sold within the last 1 yr), and sooner or later, the support / warranty is gonna go away.

While one can argue the same works for a Dell / Asus etc., the reliability of those things is higher than Korean monitors, rite ?


----------



## exot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubin110*
> 
> Did you get yours with the "Pivot" stand? I don't think mine has that problem. Could you by chance take some photos if you decide to take the thing apart again and post it here?


The stand I have only tilts forward and back along one axis. I think the 2720MDP only has this stand.

Also, the only mounting option I now can think of would be something like this:
http://www.esiergo.com/products/monitorsolutions/ENCLOZE.asp
Expensive.
Plus, the ports, which are only attached to the monitor via the tiny cable connections, would have to be secured somehow.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> obviously, I mean the 30' 1600p equivalent


like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-30Q5-PRO-30-LG-IPS-Q5-2560-1600-WQXGA-16-10-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/130806017774?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e74a56eee


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exot*
> 
> *A note on debezelling the Crossover 2720MDP.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I recently purchased three of 2720MDP with the intentions of a triple monitor setup in portrait mode. As you can imagine, this was quite an investment and my much of my satisfaction is hinging on how close the monitors can be mounted. After scouring the internet literally for weeks, I found no prior account of anyone removing the bezel from the 2720MDP, but based information on all the other models of the Korean IPS (Catleap, other Crossovers, etc) I was confident that I would have no issue. I was entirely wrong. Soon as I verified the functionality of all three monitors, I went about removing the bezel from the first one.
> 
> Debezelling was an easy process, only 4 screws on the outside, then just pop it open at the seam. I was devastated when I opened it up and discovered that the VESA mount is not actually attached directly to the back of the LCD panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The VESA mount along with the stand and the input ports and speakers are all embedded into the rear plastic of the bezel. There is no way to remove the plastic bezel and leave these components attached to the LCD panel. I suppose it would only be possible with some extensive and risky modification involving drilling holes into the back metal of the panel
> Unless I missed a really important step,
> 
> 
> *this is really a disappointment with the crossover MDP*.


I can understand disappointment, but how at same time when the monitor wasn't meant to be taken apart normally


----------



## Lholozon86

I can assume that these monitors are not 70% considering that they are cheap, not to say they are bad. My seller won't help me with warranty but to either send back my monitor but it will cost $$$$$$ and wait or charge me $50 USD for a PCB. It's not that I am out of options. I know I should do my "homework" but it doesn't hurt trying your own selle first.


----------



## eeeaddict

does anyone think the white crossover monitors are going to be a sane price soon? the prices are between $500 and $1500 thats over a THOUSAND more than the black one and the ONLY difference being the bezel


----------



## Descadent

they are that high because they mostly likely say out of stock on the auctions...

they don't make them in white anymore from what we understand


----------



## Irythros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eeeaddict*
> 
> does anyone think the white crossover monitors are going to be a sane price soon? the prices are between $500 and $1500 thats over a THOUSAND more than the black one and the ONLY difference being the bezel


What would be the difference between the white and black ones?

I ordered from AW last week and the monitor I got has a black bezel but a white backing. Am I missing out on something?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irythros*
> 
> What would be the difference between the white and black ones?
> 
> I ordered from AW last week and the monitor I got has a black bezel but a white backing. Am I missing out on something?


Nothing just color. and yes they all have white backing. As every picture shows.

no you aren't missing out on something


----------



## Kuad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubin110*
> 
> So I have an inkling of a feeling whatever board is driving the display is over heating, as it takes a little bit of time for the thing to "warm up" before shutting off. Here's a video of the issue...


I had a friend that recently ordered a Crossover, and used the included plug adapter and power cord instead of simply replacing with a standard power cord from an old printer/monitor/whatever. He started experiencing that same issue within 12 hours of getting the monitor. I suggested he replace the power cord, and it went away immediately and has not returned. I would suggest the same to you, the prong adapter may be the source of your issue. Try the simple fixes first!


----------



## eeeaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> they are that high because they mostly likely say out of stock on the auctions...
> 
> they don't make them in white anymore from what we understand


AW told me they don't make them anymore which is weird seeing as it says "new product" on the crossover website. Decideing weather to wait or just buy a black one even though it will be only non white thing on my desk


----------



## MrBox

So DHL finally contacted me and will be picking up my damaged monitor from Green-Sum shortly. GS handled all of the logistics with the DHL claim.

I am still quite upset about all of this, but green-sum has kept their promises, and I will EVENTUALLY have a new monitor once DHL manages to get the damaged one back to Korea...


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So today, when i turned on my computer to do some Web browsing, I noticed backlight flickering, which was annoying but whatever, I shut my computer down to make dinner, and when I turn it back on to play some games the actual panel will not turn on, the power indicator turned solid blue which means it should be on and has signal but the panel is dead.
> 
> I even turn the brightness up and down the led indicator shows that feature is working. When I turn the monitor on and off I see the panel slightly try and turn on but doesn't.
> 
> I purchased my panel on July 5th 2012, so it's still under the one year warranty, I contacted red-cap just waiting on my reply.


So changed out my old Blue PCB for the Green one red-cap shipped for $15 USD and now my monitor works perfect again!









going from 22" 1600x900 to 27" 2560x1440 is so orgazmic!!!


----------



## Futzy

I got a new primary/connector PCB from AW today, after the replacement LED PCB not solving the fade out problem, and it seems to be working, ~8 hours of being on without anything happening. I notice this new board has a heatsink on one of the components, perhaps it really was an overheating problem.

The issue I had does not seem to be the same one rubin110 is having, my panel would gradually fade out from a random central location over the course of a couple seconds, not an instant shut off, and it only had to be turned off and on again, not to be disconnect and reconnected


----------



## signex

Hi, i want to get the CrossOver 2720 MDP GOLD LED.

But if money is not a issue, should i rather get a Dell monitor??

I just don't want it to get here damaged or having issues, cause i won't have a back up monitor.

And wich one is better, the CrossOver 2720 MDP GOLD LED or Dell 2713MH / ASUS PB278Q?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> Hi, i want to get the CrossOver 2720 MDP GOLD LED.
> 
> But if money is not a issue, should i rather get a Dell monitor??
> 
> I just don't want it to get here damaged or having issues, cause i won't have a back up monitor.
> 
> And wich one is better, the CrossOver 2720 MDP GOLD LED or Dell 2713MH / ASUS PB278Q?


crossover. and use the saved money towards 2nd one, or something else


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> Hi, i want to get the CrossOver 2720 MDP GOLD LED.
> 
> But if money is not a issue, should i rather get a Dell monitor??
> 
> I just don't want it to get here damaged or having issues, cause i won't have a back up monitor.
> 
> And wich one is better, the CrossOver 2720 MDP GOLD LED or Dell 2713MH / ASUS PB278Q?


If money's not an object, then get the Dell. Your concerns are better taken care of with the Dell.


----------



## unkuser

Just received mine. 2 days shipping from Korea to NYC. That's fast!!. I got a perfect pixel white monitor. Here are some of my observations:


The monitor is huge! I thought it would be smaller.
Love the white bezel color.
Very bright. Maybe too bright. What settings do you guys use?
I can't enter the BIOS when using DVI-D connected. HDMI is fine as well as VGA. This is weird. Anybody having this issue? I am using the built-in HD4000.
FYI: I posted this on the wrong forum. I bought a Yamakasi didn't realize I was in the Crossover forums.

Thanks,


----------



## kalmychkov

You should be lucky it even works with your HD-4000 GPU. Your GPU is not powerful enough for this monitor do your homework and read through this thread like the others do and you will find all you need


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unkuser*
> 
> Just received mine. 2 days shipping from Korea to NYC. That's fast!!. I got a perfect pixel white monitor. Here are some of my observations:
> 
> 
> The monitor is huge! I thought it would be smaller.
> Love the white bezel color.
> Very bright. Maybe too bright. What settings do you guys use?
> I can't enter the BIOS when using DVI-D connected. HDMI is fine as well as VGA. This is weird. Anybody having this issue? I am using the built-in HD4000.


Turn the brightness down with the button on the monitor?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalmychkov*
> 
> You should be lucky it even works with your HD-4000 GPU. Your GPU is not powerful enough for this monitor do your homework and read through this thread like the others do and you will find all you need


what he said.


----------



## xV1ral

After reading through this thread, I went ahead and ordered a non-perfect pixel 27Q LED-P from accessorieswhole. It shipped on Monday, got to my UPS box by Tuesday night, and I just now set it up. I'm pretty happy with how huge it is, and how clear everything looks! Also, I couldn't find any dead pixels, so yay! c:


----------



## jagz

Wanted to say over 1 year, still running strong. Oh, and I still use the 240v brick


----------



## signex

Wich model is their absolute best one?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> Wich model is their absolute best one?


read the thread, but there isn't a "BEST" one. just get the one that suits your needs and wants


----------



## kalmychkov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> Wich model is their absolute best one?


At least open a first page of this thread where they explain the difference between all the Catleap models how hard it is to read a few pages???


----------



## signex

jesus chill out... im not going to read 500+ pages.

Whats wrong with asking a question, that's what forums are for.


----------



## lusal

No flame or vitriol intended here...

He's asking you to read the first _post_. Not the first page and not the entire thread. The different models are listed there. It will answer your question in a very succinct manner.

There's nothing wrong with asking questions. Prevailing trends show that the first post of larger threads is generally amended as time goes on as information is aggregated and discovered. It's the best place to check for answers.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> jesus chill out... im not going to read 500+ pages.
> 
> Whats wrong with asking a question, that's what forums are for.


what wrong with hitting the search this thread button?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> what wrong with hitting the search this thread button?


Search is a pretty poor way about parsing these kinds of threads. Especially with what he wants to know.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Search is a pretty poor way about parsing these kinds of threads. Especially with what he wants to know.


not at all. that's why we HAVE the search feature....simply type what you want to know... use keywords...just like google









especially in this thread, everything gets answered over and over every other page. and people don't read or search and we have to repeat the same things over and over.

at least someone asks every page about models, pixel perfection, pcbs, how to take it apart, color profiles, comparison to dell/apple/etc, backlight bleed, issues, etc etc... everything has been said over and over. only thing that needs to be done is read the thread, search the thread, buy your monitor, and live happily ever after as an INFORMED consumer.

if all else fails with reading and searching, at least read the very FIRST post or better yet! READ the auctions on ebay completely! all the differences are on the auctions themselves with links to other models

with that said, simply lessen the repeatedness in this thread and read and seach please.


----------



## cooler2442

The first page doesn't talk about the new "LED Blade" which is the cheapest Crossover that AW has up for sale. The 27Q is 30$ more. Is it because the stand is better?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> not at all. that's why we HAVE the search feature....simply type what you want to know... use keywords...just like google
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> especially in this thread, everything gets answered over and over every other page. and people don't read or search and we have to repeat the same things over and over.
> 
> at least someone asks every page about models, pixel perfection, pcbs, how to take it apart, color profiles, comparison to dell/apple/etc, backlight bleed, issues, etc etc... everything has been said over and over. only thing that needs to be done is read the thread, search the thread, buy your monitor, and live happily ever after as an INFORMED consumer.
> 
> if all else fails with reading and searching, at least read the very FIRST post or better yet! READ the auctions on ebay completely! all the differences are on the auctions themselves with links to other models
> 
> with that said, simply lessen the repeatedness in this thread and read and seach please.


I used to think the search button was the answer. Then I had to use it. I have been disabused of that notion. There have been times where I tried to find a specific post with information I knew about, read, and even the general time period where the post was made - nope. Couldn't find it. Search isn't the panacea that I had once hoped it was.

People ought to read the first post. But expecting people to find information on anything but the first page and last page is, frankly, expecting too much both on the part of the questioner (really, it is), and also underestimating the amount of work to parse through 5000 posts' worth of data. Repetition is simply an unavoidable by-product of having such a massive thread. The Catleap thread is even worse, and that one has an even more informative and better set up opening post.

I would either resign yourself to either:
1. Repeatedly answer the same questions again and again
2. Repeatedly plea for people to search the thread and find the answers themselves, again and again.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> The first page doesn't talk about the new "LED Blade" which is the cheapest Crossover that AW has up for sale. The 27Q is 30$ more. Is it because the stand is better?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033


The outside case is different as well as the stand.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I would either resign yourself to either:
> 1. Repeatedly answer the same questions again and again
> 2. Repeatedly plea for people to search the thread and find the answers themselves, again and again.










you know I searched and read this whole thread before I bought my 3 and I found every answer I needed to know. and yes that was through 300 and something pages back in august, and the search function also worked. Please just search pcb, debezel, etc and you will find EVERY SINGLE post in this thread with those keywords...simple things that people can search and it what?! WORKS?!


----------



## signex

I understand that it may be annoying reading the same question.

But it doesn't hurt asking it for the 430593485 time.

I'm sorry if i was being annoying...

I did read alot of the last hundred pages, and i decided to just purchase a Asus 1440p monitor.
Heard a heck lot of good things about it, and i don't really want to get the issues adressed at the last pages.

I know that alot of people have only good experience with it don't get me wrong.

But there is always a chance that i will get one with lots of problems.

Again i apologize for asking questions that are already answered in the thread.

But people don't have to be a dick about it...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you know I searched and read this whole thread before I bought my 3 and I found every answer I needed to know. and yes that was through 300 and something pages back in august, and the search function also worked. Please just search pcb, debezel, etc and you will find EVERY SINGLE post in this thread with those keywords...simple things that people can search and it what?! WORKS?!


That's the problem. You find EVERY SINGLE post. Thus, even though it "works", it fails as a method to answer questions effectively.

It's up to you whether or not you want to answer the questions that come or not. Just realise you'll either have to repeatedly rant about people not searching/reading the thread (and not helping), or you're going to give information that's helpful, even though repetitive.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> I understand that it may be annoying reading the same question.
> 
> But it doesn't hurt asking it for the 430593485 time.


while it doesn't "hurt" it proves point of how lazy people are and how they can help themselves first, that's really all I'm saying. This thread has more than ran off enough people who use to help alot due to people who couldn't help themselves first.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That's the problem. You find EVERY SINGLE post. Thus, even though it "works", it fails as a method to answer questions effectively.
> 
> It's up to you whether or not you want to answer the questions that come or not. Just realise you'll either have to repeatedly rant about people not searching/reading the thread (and not helping), or you're going to give information that's helpful, even though repetitive.


use better search terms? better yet read through those posts it does give you in search! it's not rocket science. It's called doing your own due diligence and being an informed consumer before you make a purchase decision, especially from over seas.

Again this is only related to the same questions that are asked EVERY single page. not all questions.


----------



## signex

I might just get the pixel perfect 2720MDP GOLD, cause it has a glossy screen wich should have better colors and sharper.

I heard it uses same panel as the apple thunderbolt monitor wich costs 1k.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> I might just get the pixel perfect 2720MDP GOLD, cause it has a glossy screen wich should have better colors and sharper.
> 
> I heard it uses same panel as the apple thunderbolt monitor wich costs 1k.


all of the korean monitors and apple's monitors use the same LG panel.

some people don't like the 10bit however and stick with normal 8bit ips


----------



## signex

^ For how long do you have your 3 crossover monitors atm?


----------



## Descadent

since august


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> The first page doesn't talk about the new "LED Blade" which is the cheapest Crossover that AW has up for sale. The 27Q is 30$ more. Is it because the stand is better?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033


I've had the Blade for about 5 weeks and in terms of picture quality it's been awesome. The stand is utter trash though. Flimsy and barely any adjustment. I'm using a third party stand on the VESA mounts. However, if you don't anticipate adjusting it once you have it set, and you're OK with stacking it on a book or box if you need it higher, then it's no big deal.

I posted some pics here when I got it:


http://imgur.com/0ZtVc


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> ^ For how long do you have your 3 crossover monitors atm?


I have been using my CrossOvers 27Q Led-P for _almost a year now._

*NEVER* had any issues with them, pixel perfect, almost no light bleeding (only in bottom right corner like any other CrossOvers. They are all almost the same Tint, need to modify couple of things in catalyst but the difference is so minimal that I havent done it since my last Windows Format. This is probably the best investment I have done in my whole PC enthousiast life.

By the way, I'm still running the 240v bricks (Those bricks are probably 110v-240v but since its Korean and its 220v over there, they didnt bother writting 110-240v) They don't even get warm.

*Proof:*


----------



## signex

That looks really epic, 2x potrait and one horizontal.

But i'm still very skeptical about these monitors.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> That looks really epic, 2x potrait and one horizontal.
> 
> But i'm still very skeptical about these monitors.


No, I don't use them that way, that was the day I installed them and was testing.



Spoiler: This is how I have them set!







I was skeptical too at first, especially in April last year with few feedbacks at this time. But now its one year later and I haven't heard more horror stories about them


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> That looks really epic, 2x potrait and one horizontal.
> 
> But i'm still very skeptical about these monitors.


no reason to be skeptic... the success rate is too high. and a BUTTLOAD of people on these forums own the korean monitors.


----------



## gorman70

Hi everyone! Thanks for all the info that helped me in choosing my monitor.

I received this product: 27" Crossover 2730MD and the resolution is awesome, as well as the picture quality.

Unfortunately, it "glitches". It's like there's an intermittent and random glitch that goes across the whole screen in "bands" that either flash, or show "random colors", or a black horizontal line surrounded by "random colored noise". Stuff like that, it lasts a fraction of a second, but it's rather frequent. Several times a minute.

I'm sorry if I can't explain it properly. Here's some pictures of the kind of glitches I see. These are video frames stills from a video done with an iPhone. It would be impossible to catch these on a photograph, as they really last an istant.







I bought it from bigclothcraft, one of the suggested retailers in the thread.

Now, since it's doing this both on a DVI connection and on a RGB (PC) one, I think the problem does not lie with the cable used. My hope is that it might be the power brick. Otherwise... what are my options? Is this a known problem?

Thanks in advance to anyone kind enough to help.

Additional info:
I've been using it with two different PCs, one connected through VGA, the other one through DVI-D. I've tried with both connections attached (the monitor offers the choice to select the input to use) or just one. I've tried even low resolutions (720p for instance)... to no avail. One PC has a 512MB Nvidia 8800 GT videocard, the other an onboard ATI HD 4200. Both machines are for work use, so the low video RAM is something I'm aware of. But it definitely shouldn't be a problem for 2D regular desktop use.


----------



## Descadent

i'd contact your seller. you might want to open it up and make sure nothing is loose as well


----------



## gorman70

Yup, I did contact him as soon as I verified what was happening. Here I am trying to understand if this is unheard of or if it's something that's occured to somebody else.

It's pretty frustrating, because for all practical aspects the monitor is downright gorgeous.

What I discovered is that these glitches happen even when no signal is fed to the monitor. I found out by accident, when I turned off the computer and the "No DVI signal" on a black screen was accompanied by the same kind of glitches. I later verified it happens all the time, even if I turn it off and then back on, with computers switched off.


----------



## Descadent

something could be loose inside. open her up and see!


----------



## cooler2442

Anyone order from this seller yet?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190701182588&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123

Seems to be offering a better dead pixel guarantee and cheaper than AW. Has 99% so pretty high up there.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> Anyone order from this seller yet?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190701182588&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
> 
> Seems to be offering a better dead pixel guarantee and cheaper than AW. Has 99% so pretty high up there.


there has been some negative things about them in this thread. but not many people have bought from them

they are also same as astromobile and definitely has been some bitterness with them and some members.

i'd still pick AW for the communication, customer service, and day and half shipping from korea to u.s.


----------



## gorman70

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> something could be loose inside. open her up and see!


Anything specific I should be looking for? Has it ever happened to anybody else in the community?


----------



## Descadent

Yes with stuff being loose from shipping but far as your problem specially I don't recall. Worth a shot


----------



## tehpsyc

I need some advice on what people think might be wrong with my Crossover. I made some posts a few pages back but I'll summarize everything up to this point:

I bought a new Crossover and from day 1 its been having this strange issue where the monitor will turn on, with a functioning backlight, but the display will stay blank. It doesn't do this all the time, if the monitor has been off for a few hours and is turned on in works immediately as it should (most of the time anyway). Once its working, it has no problems (doesn't ever turn off or go blank). If the monitor goes to sleep, the problem returns. This originally led me to believe it was some sort of weird temperature issue. However, I've found that when the monitor is not working ,if I leave it on sitting at the blank screen (backlight on) for about 10-15 minutes, it will spontaneously start working, after which point its fine until power cycled. If I power cycle the monitor it returns to the blank state for another 10-15 minutes.

I had contacted my seller who initially misunderstood my problem for the backlight issue and sent me a new LCD controller. I installed this anyway just cause I had it, to see if maybe it would fix it, which it did not. I was then sent a replacement main PCB (the largest PCB located in the center) which I was hopeful would resolve the issue. Unfortunately however, this did not fix my problem. So now I'm essentially out of easily replaceable parts (at least that I can think of) and I'm wondering if anyone with more technical knowledge could suggest what's going on or why it takes 10 minutes for my monitor to become active, yet works immediately on a cold start.

Just to confirm things I've tried:
I've tried 3 different power supplies, and 3 different DVI cables (I own another Crossover that works fine)
I've swapped ports
I've tried the monitor on my roommates computer (same issue)
My other Crossover works fine, so I don't think its my computer. I'm running a 7970. My roommate is running a GTX 560, so its not an issue of a specific videocard either.

I'm at a complete loss, and I suspect I'll have to do an exchange. However, if I can avoid an exchange it would be much preferred.

Thanks in advance for your input.


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> I need some advice on what people think might be wrong with my Crossover. I made some posts a few pages back but I'll summarize everything up to this point:
> 
> I bought a new Crossover and from day 1 its been having this strange issue where the monitor will turn on, with a functioning backlight, but the display will stay blank. It doesn't do this all the time, if the monitor has been off for a few hours and is turned on in works immediately as it should (most of the time anyway). Once its working, it has no problems (doesn't ever turn off or go blank). If the monitor goes to sleep, the problem returns. This originally led me to believe it was some sort of weird temperature issue. However, I've found that when the monitor is not working ,if I leave it on sitting at the blank screen (backlight on) for about 10-15 minutes, it will spontaneously start working, after which point its fine until power cycled. If I power cycle the monitor it returns to the blank state for another 10-15 minutes.
> 
> I had contacted my seller who initially misunderstood my problem for the backlight issue and sent me a new LCD controller. I installed this anyway just cause I had it, to see if maybe it would fix it, which it did not. I was then sent a replacement main PCB (the largest PCB located in the center) which I was hopeful would resolve the issue. Unfortunately however, this did not fix my problem. So now I'm essentially out of easily replaceable parts (at least that I can think of) and I'm wondering if anyone with more technical knowledge could suggest what's going on or why it takes 10 minutes for my monitor to become active, yet works immediately on a cold start.
> 
> Just to confirm things I've tried:
> I've tried 3 different power supplies, and 3 different DVI cables (I own another Crossover that works fine)
> I've swapped ports
> I've tried the monitor on my roommates computer (same issue)
> My other Crossover works fine, so I don't think its my computer. I'm running a 7970. My roommate is running a GTX 560, so its not an issue of a specific videocard either.
> 
> I'm at a complete loss, and I suspect I'll have to do an exchange. However, if I can avoid an exchange it would be much preferred.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your input.


If I were in your shoes, and I swapped two PCBs already, I would be asking for a replacement. You have made a very reasonable effort in fixing the problem without them having to replace your monitor. How long ago did you buy it? If your seller is uncooperative hopefully you're still in the paypal dispute window. Shipping both ways costs them a lot, so I can understand why they prefer getting the user to swap parts...but you've swapped two of them and still no fix. You deserve a fully working monitor.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> If I were in your shoes, and I swapped two PCBs already, I would be asking for a replacement. You have made a very reasonable effort in fixing the problem without them having to replace your monitor. How long ago did you buy it? If your seller is uncooperative hopefully you're still in the paypal dispute window. Shipping both ways costs them a lot, so I can understand why they prefer getting the user to swap parts...but you've swapped two of them and still no fix. You deserve a fully working monitor.


I actually opened up a paypal dispute when the initial problem happened just as a way to protect myself, that dispute is still open and will close on its own in 4 days. I should hear back from them on Monday regarding the exchange, they haven't refused to do an exchange or anything, as the latest part (the main PCB) arrived on Friday so no problems there, but I'm definitely gonna see if I can do something with paypal to keep the case open just to further protect myself.


----------



## Descadent

opening a dispute should be last thing you do if the seller is reasonable with wanting to give you a replacement. If they are unreasonable then you dispute it.

Since you have gone through everything you can do, best thing to do is to get the seller to exchange first. no reason to put a dispute with them on paypal on the weekend when most sellers are off and don't respond. Give them the chance. Disputing it won't help your situation. It should be last thing you do.


----------



## Vinnces

Hi, just wanted to know if this seller has a decent rep on ebay?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-BLADE-27-S-IPS-MONITOR-2560-X-1440-QHD-Built-in-Speaker-/330894800897?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0addf801

And I'm guessing from googling that I should get the 27Q over the 27QD due to the fact that the non speaker model uses a metal stand?

Thanks for the help!

Vinn


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vinnces*
> 
> Hi, just wanted to know if this seller has a decent rep on ebay?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-BLADE-27-S-IPS-MONITOR-2560-X-1440-QHD-Built-in-Speaker-/330894800897?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0addf801
> 
> And I'm guessing from googling that I should get the 27Q over the 27QD due to the fact that the non speaker model uses a metal stand?
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> Vinn


you can view their feeback on ebay lol

but here some people buy from them. some don't. I personally wouldn't choose anyone except AW and I'll say that every page if I have too.


----------



## Vinnces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you can view their feeback on ebay lol
> 
> but here some people buy from them. some don't. I personally wouldn't choose anyone except AW and I'll say that every page if I have too.


Well, I should've said if anybody bought one from that seller before instead. Really on the fence atm. Originally wanted to drive down to a Microcenter and check out the Auria but the report of the heavy AG coating made that a no go. I'm guessing you have good experience with AW? Only $30 difference hmm....


----------



## Descadent

Just search accessorieswhole in this thread or aw and be prepared to be overwhelmed. They are the only eBay top seller of Korean monitors, only sell A panels and not A- like other sellers, best customer service and returns with free overnighted parts if needed, and best pixel policy.


----------



## kalmychkov

I have a matte auria and it doesn't have heavy AG! I love my auria and the matte one is better and I like it much more than a glossy Auria I had to return. This one has no backlight bleeding and no dead pixels. I got it for $300 so that will beat crossover any day of the week


----------



## Descadent

It's same monitor with plastic case. Crossover is metal.


----------



## Vinnces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> It's same monitor with plastic case. Crossover is metal.


You mean the Auria and the Crossover?

Well $300 is probably open box and the Microcenter near me barely has any new instock let's not talk about open box lol.


----------



## Skrumzy

So I'm just going to get a Crossover. I was trying to get something retail here from Newegg and have looked at many options, but keep wanting to get all the glory of 2560x1440 so I'm just going to do it. Will eventually get two more for surround, but I had a quick question for the thread. I guess the 2730MD is a newer crossover monitor and on accessorieswhole description of it they say it will go up to 125Hz. Anyone have solid information on this? I DID use the search function and found a few tags of 2730MD but none that mentioned anything about this option. It will be either this or the 27Q LED-P. Thanks =)


----------



## kalmychkov

New auria with AG is not the same as crossover, the word on the street that it has 10bit wide gamut panel, prob the same as dell u2711. So it's a totally diff beast


----------



## Descadent

Auria and Crossover are the SAME LG panel. As are all the korean monitors. whether they are 8 bit or 10bit. 8bit being more favorable. They come from same factory off the same line.

They can go up to 120hz on some models, but they use frame skipping to get there. Only real 120hz monitor is from overlord OR you buy a pcb from them and put it in your crossover.


----------



## Descadent

ugh double post


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Auria and Crossover are the SAME LG panel. As are all the korean monitors. whether they are 8 bit or 10bit. 8bit being more favorable. They come from same factory off the same line.
> 
> They can go up to 120hz on some models, but they use frame skipping to get there. Only real 120hz monitor is from overlord OR you buy a pcb from them and put it in your crossover.


Is this directed at me, because I don't know.


----------



## Descadent

directed at last 4 posts


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> directed at last 4 posts


Thanks for clearing that up...


----------



## skwidy

Ordered mine from accessorieswhole (link) on March 19 and it arrived on March 21 :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Tested for pixel issues with lcd2 from flexcode (link) and spotted no dead, sub or stuck pixels.
On day three and still no problems.

Monitor pics:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jagz

tehpsyc, what you describe sound's like a bad capacitor. Have you checked the secondary pcb (I have not seen the PCB's for the crossover at all so I'm guessing) for bulged caps?


----------



## mordotz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalmychkov*
> 
> New auria with AG is not the same as crossover, the word on the street that it has 10bit wide gamut panel, prob the same as dell u2711. So it's a totally diff beast


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> Auria and Crossover are the SAME LG panel. As are all the korean monitors. whether they are 8 bit or 10bit. 8bit being more favorable. They come from same factory off the same line.
> 
> They can go up to 120hz on some models, but they use frame skipping to get there. Only real 120hz monitor is from overlord OR you buy a pcb from them and put it in your crossover.


I'm pretty sure kalmychkov is right, the new Auria is CFL backlit and has the same atrocious AG coating as the Dell U2711.. Someone that opened their new one up in another forum actually said it was a Dell U2711 panel inside. The new ones have side cardboard handles and the old one used to have a plastic top handle on the box.

Went to Microcenter yesterday to grab one since I wanted the multiple inputs, turns out the old glossy Aurias are no where to be found. I've been lurking around this thread and ended up ordering the Crossover Gold from AW earlier today. Hopefully I get a good one!


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> Let's refer to this as the *dim out / fade out / black out issue*. &#8230; Guess they'll have to send out lots of new PCBs &#8230;


Just for information, AccessoriesWhole sent me a new controller board. It arrived last Monday, and it's been working fine so far, which, of course, would have to be expected!







I hope it'll outlast its predecessors, which only lasted two weeks. Well, bad batches happen, and as long as there's a replacement coming, I can live with it &#8230;


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> tehpsyc, what you describe sound's like a bad capacitor. Have you checked the secondary pcb (I have not seen the PCB's for the crossover at all so I'm guessing) for bulged caps?


I did look but I didn't see anything. I'll crack it open again tonight and take another look but so far its got 2 brand new PCBs in it, only the small PCB that the power/brightness adjust buttons are connected to and the LG PCBs are left. I suspect its one of the LG PCBs; I can upload pictures of all the PCBs if you think you could spot a messed up capacitor

UPDATE: Decided to just crack it open now, definitely no signs of bulging anywhere. The new PCBs look fine, and I check all 3 LG PCBs under the metal panel. I even popped off the LCD brightness/Power buttons and check that board, which was fine. I snapped some pictures but the lighting isn't great and the camera didn't capture them very well. I'm 99% sure there is no visible signs of capacitor swelling. I do notice an audible buzzing coming from just that monitor when it is displaying something though, not when the screen is blanked out however.

UPDATE2: I decided randomly to time how long it takes the monitor to come alive - it takes exactly 9 minutes. I timed it 5 times and every time was exactly the same, 9 minutes on the dot. How bizarre anyone have any ideas what is going on?


----------



## gorman70

Anyone has got experience with bigclothcraft's communication? I hoped for a quick reply but I still didn't receive one and in Korea the business day has already ended.
Since I payed for a zero dead pixel product (meaning no bright dot stuck pixels and a maximum of one dark dot stuck pixel) and instead received a malfunctioning product with 4 dead pixels (black ones) in the top left corner and bottom right corner... I'm starting to evaluate my options. I payed with PayPal on eBay.

I'm kind of upset, because the product was supposed to be checked for dead pixels before sending and instead there are dead pixels and it glitches so much that, IMHO, it hasn't even be switched on before shipping, otherwise they wouldn't have sent it.


----------



## m.oreilly

tehpsyc, i have that 'issue' as well, when windows power options shuts it off automatically after an hour. usually, using server 2008r2, i would need to hit ctrl alt delete to have ot pop back on, but with win8, i went ahead and reset to get it back...monitor works perfect otherwise. i am using an ati 7970. i don't think i had this issue with my nvidia 680...


----------



## daCreep

I pulled the trigger and bought one of these from accessories whole. Shipping was amazing and itt came today, it's gorgeous! Although the panel has 2 small patches of dead pixels. About ten total from the best i can count these tiny things. Although they are in the right hand side of the screen, and the bottom right corner so they aren't that bothersome. I contacted AW about it just now, waiting for a reply.
Even if they didn't take it back, or send me a new one im still very satisfied, my other 1080p 24' monitor looks like a joke next to this thing.


Spoiler: Pics.








Imgur -


http://imgur.com/WHq13


----------



## Descadent

is that dust or pixels?

try and see if you can massage it out.


----------



## Vinnces

Alright just bite the bullet and bought one from AW. Hope I get a good one!

Thanks for the recommend Descadent.


----------



## daCreep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> is that dust or pixels?
> 
> try and see if you can massage it out.


Tried massaging it out. You're right it might be dust behind the glass. I will look closer at the panel when i get home, maybe a magnifying glass? Ill post an update once i find out.


----------



## tehpsyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m.oreilly*
> 
> tehpsyc, i have that 'issue' as well, when windows power options shuts it off automatically after an hour. usually, using server 2008r2, i would need to hit ctrl alt delete to have ot pop back on, but with win8, i went ahead and reset to get it back...monitor works perfect otherwise. i am using an ati 7970. i don't think i had this issue with my nvidia 680...


I'm actually having that issue as well with my 7970 on top of this current problem. That one is a software issue for sure, you can see in the system logs the ATI section exploding with errors when that happens. It doesn't do it for me all the time, but happens intermittently. When that does happen it hits both of my monitors (running 2 Crossovers). You can also hear the "Device Unplugged" sound effect play when the computer goes to wake up when that problem manifests itself. Sadly I'm having that in addition to the one monitor failing to start for 9 minutes (the good Crossover starts immediately) and that happens every single time, even with a manual power cycling of the monitor. I did some more reading and I'd have to agree with an earlier poster indicating it sounds like a capacitor that is going bad and is taking a longer time to charge, thus delaying the monitor turning on. I'm waiting to hear back from my seller to determine what the next step is.


----------



## artvandalay88

I have the same exact problem. I got my Crossover 27Q LED-P in mid-Feb, and now it will be on for a few seconds and fade out the same way as your video shows.

Have you found a resolution to this issue? I got mine from red-cap.


----------



## Descadent

open it up and check all connections and for burn spots. try your best to get help from redcap but goodluck. he charges for pcbs and such unlike other sellers


----------



## artvandalay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> Thanks for your precise feedback.
> Here's two more videos of my monitor fading out. The second one is a bit longish, but it features a Star Trek video to compensate for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, most of the time it is blacked out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2z3s5eh&s=6
> http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=pujv9&s=6
> 
> Does anyone of you blackout guys also have this quick fade out effect?


I have the same exact issue. Have you found a resolution?


----------



## Senexion

I tried to read through as many of the posts as I could in all crossover forums but I'm just curious if anyone else has encountered the same problem as I am encountering now.

I had bought a Crossover 27Q monitor from AcessoriesWhole and it worked for the first day and I have been unable to use it since then and I had just tried to turn it on yesterday and it is receiving no power but is detected by my computer. By the back of the monitor I can hear a noise when the power is plugged in that goes away of course when I remove the power plug. I was wondering if this is a problem with the monitor or the power brick and if anyone has found a solution to this

I have already messaged AW about this at about 11 AM Pacific Time Zone on the 24th and have not received a response back yet so just want to see if anyone here has experienced this same problem.


----------



## rodo111

I was all set to purchase my LED-P from accesorieswhole about an hour ago, and then I stepped away from my PC for a few minutes to get some stuff done (I was literally on the confirm order page on ebay...). Price was $409.99 and it said "sale for 2 more days". I come back now and it's been raised by $30 to $439.99!!!

I don't even want to buy one anymore. I'm too sad. $30 for missing it by a few minutes...when I was there and everything. I've never regretted something this much (at least not for a while...).


----------



## naididae

It's still a worthy buy if you ask me!


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naididae*
> 
> It's still a worthy buy if you ask me!


Well...yeah. I know. But the price going up in the few minutes I step away is too depressing. I almost bought it earlier today when I was overthinking. I came back after eating something and BAM.


----------



## daCreep

So it turns out they were not dead pixels, and just 2 specs of dust. I simply used a small blast of compressed air on the side and both pieces fell down and are not longer visible.








This monitor is beautiful, watching TimeScapes in 1440p!

Thank you for the help guys!


----------



## rodo111

I've been reading this thread and I know that accessorieswhole is the "go to" guy for this. Believe me, I want to buy from him (but the $30 price increase while I stepped away is really leaving me bitter...).

Right now, bigclothcraft has one for $412 (about $3 more than the AW one was). I know his dead pixel policy is 5, rather than 3, but he seems to be the 2nd most recommended seller here. Is there anything else I should be aware of for BCC? For example, if PCB needs to be replaced, will he send it for free, etc.? I want to know if the extra $30 is worth it at this point...or if I'll regret it in a few weeks when something goes wrong.

EDIT: Scratch that, that was the blade edition. Sigh...I contacted AW to see if he'd be nice to me, but I'd understand if he wouldn't. It's cool...I'll probably just suck it up and do it anyways haha.


----------



## Vinnces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> Well...yeah. I know. But the price going up in the few minutes I step away is too depressing. I almost bought it earlier today when I was overthinking. I came back after eating something and BAM.


Ouch, that almost happened to me. Was over thinking about it but decided to go for it anyways. I just hope I get one that last.


----------



## smellyfungus

saw post that prices were up so i checked my original auction purchased thru green-sum. he's selling for 393. so far mines been going strong. i havent had to contact them for any issues though so i can't quote support. id recommend em still based on a few hundred of pages ive read of this thread so far. otherwise i'd wait for aw to lower the price again, i'd assume they're low on stock.


----------



## FloJoe6669

hey so i got one of the 27q LED-Ps which i bought ~6 months or so back, one of the ones with the good pcb (cant rember if its green or blue).
just wondering if its possible to clock it at all, even ~80hz would be great. is this possible at all?


----------



## jotavip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> Well...yeah. I know. But the price going up in the few minutes I step away is too depressing. I almost bought it earlier today when I was overthinking. I came back after eating something and BAM.


Hi friend. Happened to me yesterday too. Overthinked all last week, I was waiting an AW reply for a final message that I sent to him, and at night verified that the price increased.

Contacted him again through ebay, and he will sell for me with the old price because of his delay to reply the message, but only direct from paypal. Now I am waiting the invoice to finally buy this monitor.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> I've been reading this thread and I know that accessorieswhole is the "go to" guy for this. Believe me, I want to buy from him (but the $30 price increase while I stepped away is really leaving me bitter...).
> 
> Right now, bigclothcraft has one for $412 (about $3 more than the AW one was). I know his dead pixel policy is 5, rather than 3, but he seems to be the 2nd most recommended seller here. Is there anything else I should be aware of for BCC? For example, if PCB needs to be replaced, will he send it for free, etc.? I want to know if the extra $30 is worth it at this point...or if I'll regret it in a few weeks when something goes wrong.
> 
> EDIT: Scratch that, that was the blade edition. Sigh...I contacted AW to see if he'd be nice to me, but I'd understand if he wouldn't. It's cool...I'll probably just suck it up and do it anyways haha.


it's not just that pixel policy with AW is better, it's the fact they sell only A panels where everyone else is A-. Not to mention they are the only top seller of the monitors on ebay because of their feedback, customer service and amount of sales.


----------



## Vinnces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smellyfungus*
> 
> saw post that prices were up so i checked my original auction purchased thru green-sum. he's selling for 393. so far mines been going strong. i havent had to contact them for any issues though so i can't quote support. id recommend em still based on a few hundred of pages ive read of this thread so far. otherwise i'd wait for aw to lower the price again, i'd assume they're low on stock.


AW just messaged me this morning. He said he ran out of stock and said it would take another 2 days before he could ship my monitor. So the low on stock is true. Was really hoping I could get it by this week.


----------



## hodge1984

Hi all,

Hopefully someone can give me some advice.
I got a crossover 27q from AW recently (received it yesterday) and it seems to be broken.

The problem is, it powers on ok, red LED displays, upon boot the led goes blue and the backlight comes on, but no display.
I'm using a Radeon HD 7950 which should be more than capable.

It recognizes a signal as it turns on/off with the PC, it just wont display anything.

I don't have another PC to test it out with, but the PC/GPU works fine for my old vga monitor.

I have contacted AW and he requested a video showing the fault, which I put together and uploaded to youtube (



 if anyone wants to take a look).

I haven't had a response yet, but I can't find anyone who has had a similar problem which makes me wonder if i'm missing something or doing something wrong.

Any advice appreciated.


----------



## Descadent

did you use the dl-dvi cable that came with it? and is that port dl-dvi supported on that 7950?


----------



## hodge1984

Yes, using the supplied cable.
GPU is this one... http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4121#ov
"Dual-link DVI-I" that should work right?


----------



## Descadent

hmm. as aw will suggest, open it up and make sure nothing is disconnected inside the monitor. or try another dl-dvi cable.


----------



## hodge1984

Opened it up, nothing obviously out of place. It does seem to have a blue pcb board that I've read can cause issues. Could it be as simple as a pcb swap?

Will put it back together and see if that magically fixes anything.


----------



## jotavip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vinnces*
> 
> AW just messaged me this morning. He said he ran out of stock and said it would take another 2 days before he could ship my monitor. So the low on stock is true. Was really hoping I could get it by this week.


Which model did you picked?


----------



## Senexion

AW shipped me my monitor in 2 and a half days from the hour that I bought it, you most likely will still get it within the week.


----------



## Vinnces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jotavip*
> 
> Which model did you picked?


27Q Led


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> I've been reading this thread and I know that accessorieswhole is the "go to" guy for this. Believe me, I want to buy from him (but the $30 price increase while I stepped away is really leaving me bitter...).
> 
> Right now, bigclothcraft has one for $412 (about $3 more than the AW one was). I know his dead pixel policy is 5, rather than 3, but he seems to be the 2nd most recommended seller here. Is there anything else I should be aware of for BCC? For example, if PCB needs to be replaced, will he send it for free, etc.? I want to know if the extra $30 is worth it at this point...or if I'll regret it in a few weeks when something goes wrong.
> 
> EDIT: Scratch that, that was the blade edition. Sigh...I contacted AW to see if he'd be nice to me, but I'd understand if he wouldn't. It's cool...I'll probably just suck it up and do it anyways haha.


I bought mine from BCC comms were a bit slow at times through a missed message but he sent me a replacement brick and pcb more or less overnight to sort my problem out so he will not dick you about if that's what your worried about. AW is the other the other buyer you can trust from feedback on here so either one of these two are the sellers to trust as far as I'm concerned and would only buy from.


----------



## Azefore

Speaking of sales on these and breaking my absence from the thread I'm actually selling my two Crossovers here if anyone is interested.


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jotavip*
> 
> Hi friend. Happened to me yesterday too. Overthinked all last week, I was waiting an AW reply for a final message that I sent to him, and at night verified that the price increased.
> 
> Contacted him again through ebay, and he will sell for me with the old price because of his delay to reply the message, but only direct from paypal. Now I am waiting the invoice to finally buy this monitor.


He responded to me this morning with the same thing. This guy already has me impressed as a top notch seller. I don't even care if I have to pay more to get a second one from him in the future. I could afford it now...and I probably should've bought it, but I don't feel terrible giving him extra money if the service is always going to be this good.

The only thing I'm not sure of is how I'm going to get my fedex number, but I trust his business after all the glowing reviews in this thread and elsewhere. The next few days are going to suck waiting...it's a good thing he doesn't make you wait long









EDIT: Forgot to update, in his correspondence he let me know that they are expecting a new shipment of stock today, and that they'd send it out ASAP.


----------



## Vinnces

AW messaged me saying he will ship it on the 28th. Basically he's saying I should get it on the 29th. Will see.


----------



## jojorockets52

I'm having trouble with my crossover atm. It is currently going from standby to active (orange LED to blue LED). It will sometimes randomly display a picture for maybe 5 seconds then continue switching. Anyone know the problem? This happened suddenly. I have been using it normally for months.


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojorockets52*
> 
> I'm having trouble with my crossover atm. It is currently going from standby to active (orange LED to blue LED). It will sometimes randomly display a picture for maybe 5 seconds then continue switching. Anyone know the problem?


When did you buy it? Who did you buy it from?

Please include this information before we can help you troubleshoot.


----------



## jojorockets52

Sorry, I bought it a little more than a month ago from the ebay user acessorieswhole.


----------



## Senexion

I had bought a Crossover 27Q monitor from AcessoriesWhole and it worked for the first day and I have been unable to use it since then and I had just tried to turn it on yesterday and it is receiving no power but is detected by my computer. By the back of the monitor I can hear a noise when the power is plugged in that goes away of course when I remove the power plug. I was wondering if this is a problem with the monitor or the power brick and if anyone has found a solution to this.
I did not buy a new power brick, but a new cable so I did not have to use a converter to the US plug type and with either of these cables there is no power.





 ~Video to the problem


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vinnces*
> 
> AW messaged me saying he will ship it on the 28th. Basically he's saying I should get it on the 29th. Will see.


If you are in the U.S. and it ships 28th his time you will have it 29th our time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Senexion*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to read through as many of the posts as I could in all crossover forums but I'm just curious if anyone else has encountered the same problem as I am encountering now.
> 
> I had bought a Crossover 27Q monitor from AcessoriesWhole and it worked for the first day and I have been unable to use it since then and I had just tried to turn it on yesterday and it is receiving no power but is detected by my computer. By the back of the monitor I can hear a noise when the power is plugged in that goes away of course when I remove the power plug. I was wondering if this is a problem with the monitor or the power brick and if anyone has found a solution to this
> 
> I have already messaged AW about this at about 11 AM Pacific Time Zone on the 24th and have not received a response back yet so just want to see if anyone here has experienced this same problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> e


you only need to post this once.not again within last three pages. you're just copying and pasting what you previously posted. Contact aw again and let them deal with it


----------



## Senexion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> If you are in the U.S. and it ships 28th his time you will have it 29th our time.
> you only need to post this once.not again within last three pages. you're just copying and pasting what you previously posted. Contact aw again and let them deal with it


It's slightly different, I changed it after I posted it so it wasn't all copy and paste lol, I added some things, removed most of it and added a link to youtube of the problem.


----------



## Jordan32

Hey I am thinking of purchasing one of these monitors..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-HD-2560X1440-S-IPS-DVI-QHD-Pivot-Computer-Monitor-/140729321245?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41f071d&_uhb=1#ht_17923wt_1163

Or

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-YAMAKASI-Q271-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-27-S-IPS-HDMI-Monitor-/120988281457?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c2b76aa71&_uhb=1#ht_26006wt_1163

Which one would you recommend ? They are both pixel perfect and have good seller !

Or is there other better for the price ?

Thanks for your help guys


----------



## FloJoe6669

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jordan32*
> 
> Hey I am thinking of purchasing one of these monitors..
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-HD-2560X1440-S-IPS-DVI-QHD-Pivot-Computer-Monitor-/140729321245?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41f071d&_uhb=1#ht_17923wt_1163
> 
> Or
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-YAMAKASI-Q271-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-27-S-IPS-HDMI-Monitor-/120988281457?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c2b76aa71&_uhb=1#ht_26006wt_1163
> 
> Which one would you recommend ? They are both pixel perfect and have good seller !
> 
> Or is there other better for the price ?
> 
> Thanks for your help guys


the Crossover monitor has a MUCH better frame and stand, so id get that.


----------



## Jordan32

Oh ok thanks, so would this be better than

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-S-IPS-Pivot-Computer-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/121080172858?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c30f0d13a&_uhb=1#ht_17993wt_1163

That one I just linked has "Perfect pixel" where as the other one does not.

Better to be safe and get the perfect pixel ?

EDIT*

would this monitor work with future cards ?

Just wondering because it has a table of the cards it works with ? Is that only because some of them don't have DVI?


----------



## Descadent

in regards to "should i get pixel perfect" we have discussed this 100000000 million times in this thread. if you want to know opinions of those who have and have no bought it. please use search this thread button.

No it's not worth it, but save some money and get a non pixel perfect from AW and you will have a 99% chance to still have no dead pixels.

some people want to buy pixel perfect for peace of mind, but all you are really doing is giving them more money. Buy from the only seller who sells only A panels and has best pixel policy with best customer service and feedback. AW. It's worth their premium over other sellers for non pixel perfect

the monitors will always work with cards that have dual link-dvi which is about everything from last couple of years to the future.


----------



## FloJoe6669

I didn't order the perfect pixel checked model but i ended up with a perfect pixel monitor. search some more on this forum what the stats are on it.

as long as a card has DVI-D output then it should be fine. any decent card should have one, but check first.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloJoe6669*
> 
> I didn't order the perfect pixel checked model but i ended up with a perfect pixel monitor. check some more on this forum what the stats are on it.
> 
> as long as a card has DVI-D output then it should be fine. any decent card should have one, but check first.


he means dl-dvi-i or dl-dvi-d


----------



## cooler2442

Ordered my 27Q from AW today. He gave me the old price since we were in talks during price increase. $378 paypaled to him directly. Not to bad I guess. Crossing my fingers for a good one.


----------



## rodo111

So he shipped mine on early Wednesday morning (about 2-3 AM california time) from Korea...and it was delivered today according to fedex around noon. I'm at work...so I haven't seen it yet. I knew he was fast by reading this thread, but HOLY CRAP. He beats amazon prime. That's insane. FROM FREAKING KOREA.

I'm impressed already. Hopefully the monitor is awesome as well.

EDIT: Monitor is awesome, as expected. This AW guy is the real deal. First impressions: it's HEAVY. This is a good thing. It also took me far longer than I'm willing to admit that the power button was on the back. I thought it might have been broken because I couldn't find it forever haha. Screen is beautiful though. The only thing I'm unsure of is if there is a way to calibrate it other than the brightness controls...doesn't seem to be any way to adjust contrast or anything else, not that it really needs it.

Resolution is beautiful though...kinda wish I bought 2. Never thought my 1920x1080 TN panel could look so lame in comparison.


----------



## Vinnces

Got my in today just as he said I would. Quite /drool worthy and np atm. There is a dead pixel on the upper right part of the screen after careful inspection. Don't think it will bother me after a few days since I can only see it if the background is white or I'm doing the dead pixel test. Wish I got a perfect one but can't complain with how fast and how beautiful it is.

Edit: Picture of the dead pixel:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> It also took me far longer than I'm willing to admit that the power button was on the back.


I had to make a post in this thread asking where the power button was









At least it I wasn't the only one !


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I had to make a post in this thread asking where the power button was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least it I wasn't the only one !


Haha man, for a good 5-10 minutes I was bummed that I had a bad power brick or something. The PC was detecting the monitor but I couldn't get the screen to come on...so I thought maybe there was something wrong...until i watched a video of someone who had an actual power failure try to turn his on and then I realized my button was on the back.

Definitely not my brightest moment.


----------



## tehpsyc

Just want to update everyone on what was wrong with my monitor. After running into repeated problems with every replacement part my seller send me, I decided instead of waiting further to take my good crossover monitor and do some part swapping (I had been hesitant to do this for fear of damaging the working monitor, but decided to proceed after much frustration). I was able to remove the green LG PCB and do a swap between the two monitors, which transferred the problem from one to the other. So I can confirm that was my culprit this whole time. I suspect one of the capacitors, which has been making a loud whine, is to blame. Hopefully my seller (who has stopped responding for about a week now, beginning immediately after I allowed my paypal case to close since they had been helpful up til that point) will finally answer me and send me the replacement part. I have however been able to find it online for $25 so I won't be completely screwed if they abandon me. Just wanted to share in case anyone else was experiencing a similar issue.


----------



## Crona

I've been creeping on this thread for a while now since I started looking into these monitors. I bought 3 of them and I'd like to share my experience as well as ask for possible advice.

As I said, I got 3. I told myself I was buying them for gaming but I knew deep down that even with two 7970's, it just wasn't going to cut it. So far this has turned out to be true, but generally isn't a problem - I tone down the graphics settings and find a comfortable 35+FPS at med-high settings and value the eyefinity setup over the extra graphical quality, for now. This might change eventually, but I've had this setup for a few months so far.

I purchased the screens from bigclothcraft. I dealt with all the dealers while looking into the monitors and found that they were the fastest to respond and didn't really see any issues with them, other than some I felt were blown out of proportion. I ordered pixel perfect which, I know, *I know*, is a waste of money. That said, I saw it as extra leverage. I had just bought 3 Benq monitors at 1080p that each had 2-3 dead pixels and it was an uphill battle getting them refunded. I was persistent though







I just didn't want to have to go through that again

I noticed almost immediately that there is a tint offset between the screens. Luckily, two of them are very similar in color. They're not perfect, but it's hardly noticeable when you're doing anything other than staring at mirrored images on the two screens. Unfortunately, the third seems overly blue. In comparison, it makes the other two screens look yellow, but I've come to the conclusion that I actually prefer the "yellow" to "blue" when they're not side by side. They're in eyefinity though so, of course, they're always side by side.

I contacted bigclothcraft about this. The color difference is pretty drastic in my opinion. Too great a difference to feel like a great eyefinity setup. Like I said, between the two yellows, there's a variance as to be expected, but it's hardly anything to fret over. The difference with the blue, however, is great enough that I believe it should have been replaced. Bigclothcraft refused me, insisting that the manufacturer had told them that it wasn't a valid return and such variable colour was "to be expected."

Now, let me be clear. I love my screens. I *love* 'em! But... if I could do it all again, I'd have gone with a more mainstream manufacturer, assuming I'm sticking to eyefinity. Thankfully I can put the two yellows on the outside and the blue on the inside and have symmetry, but I specifically bought 3 of the same brand of the same model so that I wouldn't have this problem. I'm genuinely disappointed with bigclothcraft and this practice. They could easily resell the monitor to someone only buying one, and they probably wouldn't even notice there's anything wrong. Maybe that's the definition of whether it's a "defect" but I don't think it's the right way to treat someone who just spent +$1200 on your product. I left negative feedback and got asked to change it. I got my hopes up thinking they were willing to negotiate, but they refused and so did I.

I did all I could to try to calibrate the monitor. Spent most of my free time for the first month after getting the monitors doing just that and never got it right. THEN I realized that all my approximations were for naught. Once eyefinity is enabled, as far as I can tell, there is no way to calibrate each monitor individually. If it were possible to properly calibrate these with a spyder or related device, I would happily purchase one, but it seems unlikely. Any suggestions on this front?

So, there you have it. My experiences and gripes with the 27Q. I purchased the LED-P model, which I believe is the one to have if you're picking up eyefinity. It just makes way more sense to have them in portrait 90% of the time, the only exception I can think of off the top of my head being racing games. Also, despite bigclothcraft's quick responses, which were almost always within 24 hours, I can't recommend them.

TL;DR

I don't like bigclothcraft's return policy. One of 3 monitors was too blue and causes eyefinity to lose effect, couldn't be returned. Love the monitors anyway. Portrait eyefinity makes way more sense at these resolutions. Any suggestions for calibrating individual monitors in eyefinity?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crona*
> 
> I've been creeping on this thread for a while now since I started looking into these monitors. I bought 3 of them and I'd like to share my experience as well as ask for possible advice.
> 
> As I said, I got 3. I told myself I was buying them for gaming but I knew deep down that even with two 7970's, it just wasn't going to cut it. So far this has turned out to be true, but generally isn't a problem - I tone down the graphics settings and find a comfortable 35+FPS at med-high settings and value the eyefinity setup over the extra graphical quality, for now. This might change eventually, but I've had this setup for a few months so far.
> 
> I purchased the screens from bigclothcraft. I dealt with all the dealers while looking into the monitors and found that they were the fastest to respond and didn't really see any issues with them, other than some I felt were blown out of proportion. I ordered pixel perfect which, I know, *I know*, is a waste of money. That said, I saw it as extra leverage. I had just bought 3 Benq monitors at 1080p that each had 2-3 dead pixels and it was an uphill battle getting them refunded. I was persistent though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just didn't want to have to go through that again
> 
> I noticed almost immediately that there is a tint offset between the screens. Luckily, two of them are very similar in color. They're not perfect, but it's hardly noticeable when you're doing anything other than staring at mirrored images on the two screens. Unfortunately, the third seems overly blue. In comparison, it makes the other two screens look yellow, but I've come to the conclusion that I actually prefer the "yellow" to "blue" when they're not side by side. They're in eyefinity though so, of course, they're always side by side.
> 
> I contacted bigclothcraft about this. The color difference is pretty drastic in my opinion. Too great a difference to feel like a great eyefinity setup. Like I said, between the two yellows, there's a variance as to be expected, but it's hardly anything to fret over. The difference with the blue, however, is great enough that I believe it should have been replaced. Bigclothcraft refused me, insisting that the manufacturer had told them that it wasn't a valid return and such variable colour was "to be expected."
> 
> Now, let me be clear. I love my screens. I *love* 'em! But... if I could do it all again, I'd have gone with a more mainstream manufacturer, assuming I'm sticking to eyefinity. Thankfully I can put the two yellows on the outside and the blue on the inside and have symmetry, but I specifically bought 3 of the same brand of the same model so that I wouldn't have this problem. I'm genuinely disappointed with bigclothcraft and this practice. They could easily resell the monitor to someone only buying one, and they probably wouldn't even notice there's anything wrong. Maybe that's the definition of whether it's a "defect" but I don't think it's the right way to treat someone who just spent +$1200 on your product. I left negative feedback and got asked to change it. I got my hopes up thinking they were willing to negotiate, but they refused and so did I.
> 
> I did all I could to try to calibrate the monitor. Spent most of my free time for the first month after getting the monitors doing just that and never got it right. THEN I realized that all my approximations were for naught. Once eyefinity is enabled, as far as I can tell, there is no way to calibrate each monitor individually. If it were possible to properly calibrate these with a spyder or related device, I would happily purchase one, but it seems unlikely. Any suggestions on this front?
> 
> So, there you have it. My experiences and gripes with the 27Q. I purchased the LED-P model, which I believe is the one to have if you're picking up eyefinity. It just makes way more sense to have them in portrait 90% of the time, the only exception I can think of off the top of my head being racing games. Also, despite bigclothcraft's quick responses, which were almost always within 24 hours, I can't recommend them.
> 
> TL;DR
> 
> I don't like bigclothcraft's return policy. One of 3 monitors was too blue and causes eyefinity to lose effect, couldn't be returned. Love the monitors anyway. Portrait eyefinity makes way more sense at these resolutions. Any suggestions for calibrating individual monitors in eyefinity?


Variable colour... is to be expected. With _any_ monitor, from _any_ company, reputable or not.


----------



## MrBox

So after a couple weeks and returning a scratched panel due to DHL's negligence I now have my replacement monitor. Once the old one made it back to S. Korea the new one made it here in only 2 days! Incredible! It's the CrossOver 27Q LED-P pivot model. It is completely perfect!

I ordered the standard version, and it just so happens that it's "pixel perfect". No dead or stuck pixels, and excellent light uniformity. I will be ordering 2 more to replace my other monitors









I ordered mine from green-sum and they were very easy to deal with, and covered all of the return shipping and claims logistics with DHL. It sucks that I had to wait so long, but it's not the dealer's fault. DHL ended up fixing the mistake and I am completely happy now. I recommend that dealer for excellent customer support & extremely fast shipping!.


----------



## nightninja7

Hmm a question for you guys. I intend (eventually) to try to do an eyefinity display with 3 monitors. Currently my videocard has only 1 dual DVI port and 2 mini display ports (and an hdmi). The question I have is, is it worth getting the MDP model (I think that's the one with Minidisplay with Pivot) or just the 27Q LED-P with an active MDP to Dual DVI adapter. From the prices I've seen the adapters in question seem rather expensive (around 90 bucks unless you guys know of a better deal) and seem questionable, but does anyone have any good experience with the MDP version. Past 100 pages I read mostly detailed the 270Q.

Thanks


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crona*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've been creeping on this thread for a while now since I started looking into these monitors. I bought 3 of them and I'd like to share my experience as well as ask for possible advice.
> 
> As I said, I got 3. I told myself I was buying them for gaming but I knew deep down that even with two 7970's, it just wasn't going to cut it. So far this has turned out to be true, but generally isn't a problem - I tone down the graphics settings and find a comfortable 35+FPS at med-high settings and value the eyefinity setup over the extra graphical quality, for now. This might change eventually, but I've had this setup for a few months so far.
> 
> I purchased the screens from bigclothcraft. I dealt with all the dealers while looking into the monitors and found that they were the fastest to respond and didn't really see any issues with them, other than some I felt were blown out of proportion. I ordered pixel perfect which, I know, *I know*, is a waste of money. That said, I saw it as extra leverage. I had just bought 3 Benq monitors at 1080p that each had 2-3 dead pixels and it was an uphill battle getting them refunded. I was persistent though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just didn't want to have to go through that again
> 
> I noticed almost immediately that there is a tint offset between the screens. Luckily, two of them are very similar in color. They're not perfect, but it's hardly noticeable when you're doing anything other than staring at mirrored images on the two screens. Unfortunately, the third seems overly blue. In comparison, it makes the other two screens look yellow, but I've come to the conclusion that I actually prefer the "yellow" to "blue" when they're not side by side. They're in eyefinity though so, of course, they're always side by side.
> 
> I contacted bigclothcraft about this. The color difference is pretty drastic in my opinion. Too great a difference to feel like a great eyefinity setup. Like I said, between the two yellows, there's a variance as to be expected, but it's hardly anything to fret over. The difference with the blue, however, is great enough that I believe it should have been replaced. Bigclothcraft refused me, insisting that the manufacturer had told them that it wasn't a valid return and such variable colour was "to be expected."
> 
> Now, let me be clear. I love my screens. I *love* 'em! But... if I could do it all again, I'd have gone with a more mainstream manufacturer, assuming I'm sticking to eyefinity. Thankfully I can put the two yellows on the outside and the blue on the inside and have symmetry, but I specifically bought 3 of the same brand of the same model so that I wouldn't have this problem. I'm genuinely disappointed with bigclothcraft and this practice. They could easily resell the monitor to someone only buying one, and they probably wouldn't even notice there's anything wrong. Maybe that's the definition of whether it's a "defect" but I don't think it's the right way to treat someone who just spent +$1200 on your product. I left negative feedback and got asked to change it. I got my hopes up thinking they were willing to negotiate, but they refused and so did I.
> 
> I did all I could to try to calibrate the monitor. Spent most of my free time for the first month after getting the monitors doing just that and never got it right. THEN I realized that all my approximations were for naught. Once eyefinity is enabled, as far as I can tell, there is no way to calibrate each monitor individually. If it were possible to properly calibrate these with a spyder or related device, I would happily purchase one, but it seems unlikely. Any suggestions on this front?
> 
> So, there you have it. My experiences and gripes with the 27Q. I purchased the LED-P model, which I believe is the one to have if you're picking up eyefinity. It just makes way more sense to have them in portrait 90% of the time, the only exception I can think of off the top of my head being racing games. Also, despite bigclothcraft's quick responses, which were almost always within 24 hours, I can't recommend them.
> 
> TL;DR
> 
> I don't like bigclothcraft's return policy. One of 3 monitors was too blue and causes eyefinity to lose effect, couldn't be returned. Love the monitors anyway. Portrait eyefinity makes way more sense at these resolutions. Any suggestions for calibrating individual monitors in eyefinity?


you should be using color profiles found in this thread too. any manufacturer can have this problem. don't forget these monitors are the same identical one apple uses from LG.


----------



## Crona

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Variable colour... is to be expected. With _any_ monitor, from _any_ company, reputable or not.


I completely agree but they shouldn't look like _different panels_. There's a variable color between the two more similar monitors. They're not perfect and I spent a lot of time trying to match those two. Compared to the third monitor which pulls you out of the experience, the difference is barely noticeable. I can try to get some pictures but, as with a lot of things, it might be something you just have to see for yourself. Multiple people have walked in, sat down, and immediately said "why is the color so different in the middle?"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you should be using color profiles found in this thread too. any manufacturer can have this problem. don't forget these monitors are the same identical one apple uses from LG.


Tried them out. Unfortunately, because there's already an offset, the profiles don't make them match one another any more than they already do. Some profiles make the problem worse. Assuming I could find profiles that fixed the coloration, do you know any ways to apply them across 3 screens in eyefinity? As far as I'm aware, it's not possible. You're running Nvidia, maybe Nvidia has a fix for this? After shelling out for two 7970's I can't really afford the Nvidia cards it would take to power these things.

I know they're from the same batches, but Apple probably has more specs than just "no dead pixels" for their monitors. There's likely some level of color reproduction LG has to match to be given to Apple.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nightninja7*
> 
> Hmm a question for you guys. I intend (eventually) to try to do an eyefinity display with 3 monitors. Currently my videocard has only 1 dual DVI port and 2 mini display ports (and an hdmi). The question I have is, is it worth getting the MDP model (I think that's the one with Minidisplay with Pivot) or just the 27Q LED-P with an active MDP to Dual DVI adapter. From the prices I've seen the adapters in question seem rather expensive (around 90 bucks unless you guys know of a better deal) and seem questionable, but does anyone have any good experience with the MDP version. Past 100 pages I read mostly detailed the 270Q.
> 
> Thanks


I'll assume you already know the build differences between the two models (plastic vs steel, pivot vs swivel etc)

They should all be the same IPS panel so as far as that's concerned you shouldn't notice any differences between the models.

I haven't done much research into MDP, so I'm not sure if the display port connection supports the full resolution of the monitor, but I don't see why it wouldn't. I bought 2 active MDP->DVI-DL adapters on the cheap and I've had nothing but problems. I'm constantly reaching back and re-seating the USB plugs to reset the adapter. This mostly only happens when changing resolutions or booting into games. Chances are that's because they're cheap though.

The reason I went with LED-P was for the pivot. I've found that in most situations, having these monitors in portrait makes more sense. In landscape the "screen" is so wide that I basically use the outside monitors as peripheral vision. In portrait, it fills your vision with everything in view.

In hindsight, I'd have picked up 3 name brand monitors with DP inputs for eyefinity. Mainly because my monitors have a pretty significant color variation that detracts from the eyefinity effect. That said, if you have your heart set on crossover (and if you're in this thread, you probably do, just like me) my suggestion would be to buy 3 MDP crossovers and use the money you saved to pick up a monitor stand like the Ergotron MX . You'll probably end up spending a bit more but you won't have to deal with adapters and you'll have a much better stand capable of pivot.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Any manufacturer can get discolouration or tinting but do not overlook that when you buy a premium panel you're not likely to get a panel with heavy tinting and when you do, you can have it replaced.

These Korean displays are likely to have discolouration as they are generally not A+ panels.

To fix the off colour you will need to manually calibrate it in the nvidia/catalyst control panel or buy/borrow/rent a colorimeter and properly calibrate it..


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crona*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I've been creeping on this thread for a while now since I started looking into these monitors. I bought 3 of them and I'd like to share my experience as well as ask for possible advice.
> 
> As I said, I got 3. I told myself I was buying them for gaming but I knew deep down that even with two 7970's, it just wasn't going to cut it. So far this has turned out to be true, but generally isn't a problem - I tone down the graphics settings and find a comfortable 35+FPS at med-high settings and value the eyefinity setup over the extra graphical quality, for now. This might change eventually, but I've had this setup for a few months so far.
> 
> I purchased the screens from bigclothcraft. I dealt with all the dealers while looking into the monitors and found that they were the fastest to respond and didn't really see any issues with them, other than some I felt were blown out of proportion. I ordered pixel perfect which, I know, *I know*, is a waste of money. That said, I saw it as extra leverage. I had just bought 3 Benq monitors at 1080p that each had 2-3 dead pixels and it was an uphill battle getting them refunded. I was persistent though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just didn't want to have to go through that again
> 
> I noticed almost immediately that there is a tint offset between the screens. Luckily, two of them are very similar in color. They're not perfect, but it's hardly noticeable when you're doing anything other than staring at mirrored images on the two screens. Unfortunately, the third seems overly blue. In comparison, it makes the other two screens look yellow, but I've come to the conclusion that I actually prefer the "yellow" to "blue" when they're not side by side. They're in eyefinity though so, of course, they're always side by side.
> 
> I contacted bigclothcraft about this. The color difference is pretty drastic in my opinion. Too great a difference to feel like a great eyefinity setup. Like I said, between the two yellows, there's a variance as to be expected, but it's hardly anything to fret over. The difference with the blue, however, is great enough that I believe it should have been replaced. Bigclothcraft refused me, insisting that the manufacturer had told them that it wasn't a valid return and such variable colour was "to be expected."
> 
> Now, let me be clear. I love my screens. I *love* 'em! But... if I could do it all again, I'd have gone with a more mainstream manufacturer, assuming I'm sticking to eyefinity. Thankfully I can put the two yellows on the outside and the blue on the inside and have symmetry, but I specifically bought 3 of the same brand of the same model so that I wouldn't have this problem. I'm genuinely disappointed with bigclothcraft and this practice. They could easily resell the monitor to someone only buying one, and they probably wouldn't even notice there's anything wrong. Maybe that's the definition of whether it's a "defect" but I don't think it's the right way to treat someone who just spent +$1200 on your product. I left negative feedback and got asked to change it. I got my hopes up thinking they were willing to negotiate, but they refused and so did I.
> 
> I did all I could to try to calibrate the monitor. Spent most of my free time for the first month after getting the monitors doing just that and never got it right. THEN I realized that all my approximations were for naught. Once eyefinity is enabled, as far as I can tell, there is no way to calibrate each monitor individually. If it were possible to properly calibrate these with a spyder or related device, I would happily purchase one, but it seems unlikely. Any suggestions on this front?
> 
> So, there you have it. My experiences and gripes with the 27Q. I purchased the LED-P model, which I believe is the one to have if you're picking up eyefinity. It just makes way more sense to have them in portrait 90% of the time, the only exception I can think of off the top of my head being racing games. Also, despite bigclothcraft's quick responses, which were almost always within 24 hours, I can't recommend them.
> 
> TL;DR
> 
> I don't like bigclothcraft's return policy. One of 3 monitors was too blue and causes eyefinity to lose effect, couldn't be returned. Love the monitors anyway. Portrait eyefinity makes way more sense at these resolutions. Any suggestions for calibrating individual monitors in eyefinity?


nVidia handles color profiling the same way as AMD it appears then since when I had my 3 1440p monitors I had a crossover that was overly blue, one that was overly yellow, and my apple which was already calibrated to correct temp. When surround is activated you can only use one color profile for all three like AMD unless you want to activate all displays for desktop/software usage and then change into surround for gaming only. It's an extra hoop to jump through but it may be worth it since the temp will be most noticeable on desktop usage and not so much as say peripheral view during gaming.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crona*
> 
> Tried them out. Unfortunately, because there's already an offset, the profiles don't make them match one another any more than they already do. Some profiles make the problem worse. Assuming I could find profiles that fixed the coloration, do you know any ways to apply them across 3 screens in eyefinity? As far as I'm aware, it's not possible. You're running Nvidia, maybe Nvidia has a fix for this? After shelling out for two 7970's I can't really afford the Nvidia cards it would take to power these things.
> 
> I know they're from the same batches, but Apple probably has more specs than just "no dead pixels" for their monitors. There's likely some level of color reproduction LG has to match to be given to Apple.


you don't use nvidia or amd to set color profiles. you have to set each profile in windows for each monitor. I run a color profile on all 3 of mine.

and no they are the same identical panel apple uses, there is nothing different about it other than the outer shell and apple's have dead pixels, ips glow, backlight bleed too. all manufacturers are protected under law that they can have these minimal discrepancies.

only difference is that apple gets A+ panels, then ones that don't qualify for apple go to the korean off brands we have. AW gets A panels, and other ebay sellers get A- panels. Which often or not, most of the panels are really perfect and not flawed at all.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> you don't use nvidia or amd to set color profiles. you have to set each profile in windows for each monitor. I run a color profile on all 3 of mine.
> 
> and no they are the same identical panel apple uses, there is nothing different about it other than the outer shell *and apple's have dead pixels, ips glow, backlight bleed too*. all manufacturers are protected under law that they can have these minimal discrepancies.
> 
> only difference is that apple gets A+ panels, then ones that don't qualify for apple go to the korean off brands we have. AW gets A panels, and other ebay sellers get A- panels. Which often or not, most of the panels are really perfect and not flawed at all.


Making it sound like Apple has an inferior panel and product








But I know your wording was just tricky


----------



## Descadent

i'm just stating that buying the same thing from apple doesn't mean you get no bleed, no glow, and zero dead pixels lol.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> i'm just stating that buying the same thing from apple doesn't mean you get no bleed, no glow, and zero dead pixels lol.


Oh Ik lol, its all monitor dependent, there was a huge variation in uniformity between the 2 crossovers I had/am selling. Now if only we can get 4k in a 27" size by the end of next year....


----------



## Descadent

yeah goodluck on that. maybe like 5 years


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> yeah goodluck on that. maybe like 5 years


Still possible, $5500 for Sharp's 32 inch monitor for this year isn't that bad of a buy in this early in the game. Just need 2 or 3 way titan to do some decent gaming is all


----------



## Descadent

not bad ? lol for a 32" no way in hell!


----------



## kalmychkov

32" is way to big to game on unless you will be sitting far away from it. No way you will be able to see the edges of the screen if 32" in front of your face on the computer table Especially, for that price, what waste of money


----------



## kalmychkov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Still possible, $5500 for Sharp's 32 inch monitor for this year isn't that bad of a buy in this early in the game. Just need 2 or 3 way titan to do some decent gaming is all


32" is way to big to game on unless you will be sitting far away from it. No way you will be able to see the edges of the screen if 32" in front of your face on the computer table Especially, for that price, what waste of money


----------



## Descadent

nah. you can never be too big. I only sit 11.5 ft away from 100"


----------



## kalmychkov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> nah. you can never be too big. I only sit 11.5 ft away from 100"


I wonder what GPU you got to power the 100" beast


----------



## Descadent

again size doesn't matter. just because it's bigger doesn't mean it requires more power. it's only 1920x1080 as are all high end home theater projectors on the market.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> again size doesn't matter. just because it's bigger doesn't mean it requires more power. it's only 1920x1080 as are all high end home theater projectors on the market.


Correct. GPU only cares about what resolution the display is. The increased power needed for a 100" screen comes from the wall, not the GPU xD.


----------



## kalmychkov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> again size doesn't matter. just because it's bigger doesn't mean it requires more power. it's only 1920x1080 as are all high end home theater projectors on the market.


Ty for clarifying it guys, I mistakenly thought what it will be harder for a GPU to render 46" 1080p TV vs same resolution but a smaller size monitor


----------



## DOM.

been looking at all the Korean screens and wanted to ask before buying is this a good seller and seen they say it does have a good housing and stand, also good one to make sure I should get a perfect screen pixels wise ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-CROSSOVER-27QD-P-Pivot-2560-x-1440-27-Computer-PC-Monitor-/321041777058?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abf94c1a2


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOM.*
> 
> been looking at all the Korean screens and wanted to ask before buying is this a good seller and seen they say it does have a good housing and stand, also good one to make sure I should get a perfect screen pixels wise ?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-CROSSOVER-27QD-P-Pivot-2560-x-1440-27-Computer-PC-Monitor-/321041777058?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4abf94c1a2


please search his name in the thread, you will find out everything good and bad about redcap. i don't recommend them or their service

again in regards to pixel perfect vs. non pixel perfect, it was not only discussed for 1000th time couple pages ago but the thread is littered with the debate. short answer: not worth it if you buy from the #1 best seller AW or in most cases dreamseller/bigclothcraft.


----------



## DOM.

okay seems redcap has been having pcb trouble but even AW has 7 from $320-540 in price range for the same screen XD

and the other sellers you mentioned have from 5-11 results found for 27Q LED-P









just notice the one I linked has the speakers witch I don't need







only good thing I been learning about the the models


----------



## leonardom88

OK I am finally going to pull the trigger on one of these and I'm sure this thread has addressed this but are looks the only difference between the 27Q-P and the 27QD-P, is the 27Q-P $30 cuter? Also purchasing through AW is there any benefit to contacting them before hand or should I just buy from their eBay store? Thanks


----------



## DOM.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leonardom88*
> 
> OK I am finally going to pull the trigger on one of these and I'm sure this thread has addressed this but are looks the only difference between the 27Q-P and the 27QD-P, is the 27Q-P $30 cuter? Also purchasing through AW is there any benefit to contacting them before hand or should I just buy from their eBay store? Thanks


the D has speakers and is cheaper wth lol

also with the one with out them has the while back witch ppl say its metal vs the plastic

I was going with AW also since he has less bad feed back in 12months vs others

bite the bullet went with the 27Q LED-P









update when I get it hope within the 2-5th


----------



## Azefore

32" is perfectly usable if my 27 has a 1" thick bezel on either side, 3 inches of free space on each side and then my 7-9" wide bookshelves after those 4 inches . All of that is WELL within my pehiperal vision sitting 1.7' to 2' feet away...........

Also waste of money? Overkill is name of the game on this forum. If I pushed a 4k 32 inch monitor 5 inches back and flat mounted it on my wall I'd be in seventh heaven. 1440p/1600p is cramped for one screen if you do window by window work day in day out, for me anyways


----------



## Descadent

yes a waste of money. a 32" would be $500 in 5 years from now when we actually have 4k content


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> yes a waste of money. a 32" would be $500 in 5 years from now when we actually have 4k content


Last OT reply from me but it's highly subjective for the buy in price. First mass produced plasma TV was a $15,000 buy-in during the late 90s, only now was I able to pay $1650 for a 60" Panasonic GT50 plasma set mid last year. That's 13 years. $500 in 5 years for a great quality 4k 32 inch (or smaller) monitor sounds a tad too extreme considering the 4k TVs will hit an easy $30,000 for early adopters (that and only now can you spend $275-500 on Korean 1440p monitors). If you want a 4k monitor NOW $5500 isn't anything to scoff at, you'll have the thing for years and you're only really paying to have it when you need/want it, sure you can wait but why do that if it'll be in 5-10 years, seems too long for something as pivotal as a display that makes up a third of a computers experience.

Content wise it's about what you're looking to do. I'd rather produce than consume on a 4k monitor. Video will be caught up in 2 years (with RED, etc leading so far) and games can already push the resolution, it's just GPUs for gaming that need help, other than that it's no different than a normal monitor with a huge pixel density especially considering photo resolutions from both scans and digital formats have 4k beat into a corner. Just my thoughts


----------



## DOM.

Anyone know if the 27Q-P is overclockable ?

Or just the 2730MD-P ?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOM.*
> 
> Anyone know if the 27Q-P is overclockable ?
> 
> Or just the 2730MD-P ?


The panels in the 27Q are overclockable up to 120hz, it's a PCB dependency for the overclock however and that's why the 2730MD-P can out of the box. Only a few of the Korean models have a PCB that'll allow the higher rates.


----------



## DOM.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> The panels in the 27Q are overclockable up to 120hz, it's a PCB dependency for the overclock however and that's why the 2730MD-P can out of the box. Only a few of the Korean models have a PCB that'll allow the higher rates.


So if i really wanted more Hz I should go for the 2730MD-P instead ?


----------



## kalmychkov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> The panels in the 27Q are overclockable up to 120hz, it's a PCB dependency for the overclock however and that's why the 2730MD-P can out of the box. Only a few of the Korean models have a PCB that'll allow the higher rates.


I thought it's not a true 120hz, monitor will be skipping frames not the same as true 120hz


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> The panels in the 27Q are overclockable up to 120hz, it's a PCB dependency for the overclock however and that's why the 2730MD-P can out of the box. Only a few of the Korean models have a PCB that'll allow the higher rates.


No crossover can overclock out of the box. You need to buy the correct PCB... Which is like $200 extra, on top of the monitor itself.


----------



## Azefore

True not the same as a real 120hz model but it'll take in 125 frames when it'll display at 60hz though and I was mistaken when I wrote that up, sorry bout that









Also if you count the intake of 125 frames then technically it's different in some manner be it beneficial or not, that and the other 2 models I believe a Catleap variant and then the Overlord Tempest OC can both do higher refresh rates the correct way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOM.*
> 
> So if i really wanted more Hz I should go for the 2730MD-P instead ?


I'd go for Overlord if you wanted the higher refresh rate, while the PCB on the 2730 will take in the extra frames it still can't use them but it's still a difference between say it and the 27Q. The Catleap variant I mentioned I believe is rather expensive as well but it depends on your budget. Also is the option of using the $200 PCB that'll allow overclocking that Kevinsbane mentioned but I'm not familiar with the process of that in any of the monitors.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Last OT reply from me but it's highly subjective for the buy in price. First mass produced plasma TV was a $15,000 buy-in during the late 90s, only now was I able to pay $1650 for a 60" Panasonic GT50 plasma set mid last year. That's 13 years. $500 in 5 years for a great quality 4k 32 inch (or smaller) monitor sounds a tad too extreme considering the 4k TVs will hit an easy $30,000 for early adopters (that and only now can you spend $275-500 on Korean 1440p monitors). If you want a 4k monitor NOW $5500 isn't anything to scoff at, you'll have the thing for years and you're only really paying to have it when you need/want it, sure you can wait but why do that if it'll be in 5-10 years, seems too long for something as pivotal as a display that makes up a third of a computers experience.
> 
> Content wise it's about what you're looking to do. I'd rather produce than consume on a 4k monitor. Video will be caught up in 2 years (with RED, etc leading so far) and games can already push the resolution, it's just GPUs for gaming that need help, other than that it's no different than a normal monitor with a huge pixel density especially considering photo resolutions from both scans and digital formats have 4k beat into a corner. Just my thoughts


the point is why would you want it now when there isn't any 4k content and there won't be for a while and 32" is small for a tv.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> the point is why would you want it now when there isn't any 4k content and there won't be for a while and 32" is small for a tv.


The only content that isn't 4k truly is videos and even then youtube has 4k support now. Other than that it's no different than our 3x27" portrait setups in a mildly smaller package, except I would be able to game without any bezels, and have huge real estate for media production and desktop usage. Also it's a monitor not a TV and even then there's people that use 32 inches for TVs, the UK and their average living space comes to mind when they use between 32-46".


----------



## Descadent

So then again you would have a tv with only youtube 4k support.... broadcast tv is WAYYYYS away from 4k, and they are still trying to figure out how to stream 4k with most of the U.S. not even having the bandwidth to even do it. I know in the south, we don't have the internet for 4k and Time Warner who rules the south and the internet has already said they won't be supporting speeds to allow 4k streaming.

adoption rate will be horribly slow. It took forever to get people to buy into hd and hdtvs. I mean more than half my wife's side of family still doesn't have hd or hdtvs in 2013. I got friends who still don't have 1080p monitors or tvs to game on too. There are still ALOT of people in the U.S. who don't have hd or hdtvs. 4k is unreasonable expectation and still wayyy ahead of it's time.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> So then again you would have a tv with only youtube 4k support.... broadcast tv is WAYYYYS away from 4k, and they are still trying to figure out how to stream 4k with most of the U.S. not even having the bandwidth to even do it. I know in the south, we don't have the internet for 4k and Time Warner who rules the south and the internet has already said they won't be supporting speeds to allow 4k streaming.
> 
> adoption rate will be horribly slow. It took forever to get people to buy into hd and hdtvs. I mean more than half my wife's side of family still doesn't have hd or hdtvs in 2013. I got friends who still don't have 1080p monitors or tvs to game on too. There are still ALOT of people in the U.S. who don't have hd or hdtvs. 4k is unreasonable expectation and still wayyy ahead of it's time.


I was thinking more movies than broadcast, I have DirectTV and the only use I find of broadcast programming is a few select shows for myself. Also yah I've heard a lot about Time Warner, just glad I was young when I lived in Florida. But then again I'm arguing for a monitor and not a TV set.

True adoption rate will be bad, which only means the price will remain relatively high for a good while, thus its make sense if you actually want for computer use you can buy now and not be undercut in 4 years at a minimum. I don't particularly agree with 4k TVs myself since 1080p is just now becoming prevalent to a degree, monitors 32 inches and smaller 4k sets are fine for me since the VAST majority of users of them would be power users that have a clear need or want of 4k resolution be it for business or just pleasure.


----------



## gezer

Love my Q27! What do you guys use to adjust the brightness since there is no OSD? I have a GTX670, can't find anything in the Nvidia cpanel to adjust brightness... Is there a program?


----------



## leonardom88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOM.*
> 
> the D has speakers and is cheaper wth lol
> 
> also with the one with out them has the while back witch ppl say its metal vs the plastic
> 
> I was going with AW also since he has less bad feed back in 12months vs others
> 
> bite the bullet went with the 27Q LED-P
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> update when I get it hope within the 2-5th


Ordered the 27QD-P the stand is the same and I am not concerned over case. All I really care about is the quality of the screen. Used to working on single 30"s or Dual 24"s. Needed something more than dual 19"s for the house for my personal work.

FedEx says it will be here by the 4th.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Love my Q27! What do you guys use to adjust the brightness since there is no OSD? I have a GTX670, can't find anything in the Nvidia cpanel to adjust brightness... Is there a program?


Do you mean a 27Q? If so there's three buttons in the back, ones for power and the other two are for dimming/brightening the backlight of the monitor, you can get down to around ~40-60% brightness at the lowest.


----------



## Legnar

My crossover 27q only has backlight and a blue light no picture whatsoever. Is it broken??


----------



## cooler2442

Got my 27Q today. No dead pixels. Slight backlight bleed at bottom left which isn't to bad.

Now on to the questions:

I have two previous monitors I was using with their DVI ports and I bought two DVI to mini displayport adapters and plugged them in but all three monitors will not work. Crossover is using the Dual link DVI and the other two monitors have dvi to mini display port adapters attached. I've googled it and people are saying to run a third monitor I need to get an active DVI to mini displayport adapter, is this true?

What color profile does everyone prefer to use and anyone have a link?


----------



## derfer

Does anyone have a totally dead crossover 27q? Thinking about changing my housing color from white to black.


----------



## PhatLarry

Just got my 27Q LED-P today. Bought it off ebay from Green-Sum.
Took 5 days to get to Australia, really fast imo.
LCD repair 2.0.
Used that website to do some testing but seems pretty good, get no bleeding or dead pixels which I'm happy with.
The sad thing is I need another 7970


----------



## kuruptx

My CrossOver Q monitor is randomly going dimmer a times the whole screen then it will go back to normal color, which is a bit brighter? what could cause this?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> Got my 27Q today. No dead pixels. Slight backlight bleed at bottom left which isn't to bad.
> 
> Now on to the questions:
> 
> I have two previous monitors I was using with their DVI ports and I bought two DVI to mini displayport adapters and plugged them in but all three monitors will not work. Crossover is using the Dual link DVI and the other two monitors have dvi to mini display port adapters attached. I've googled it and people are saying to run a third monitor I need to get an active DVI to mini displayport adapter, is this true?
> 
> What color profile does everyone prefer to use and anyone have a link?


This is true. You probably should have gotten the displayport version of these monitors.


----------



## ice445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuruptx*
> 
> My CrossOver Q monitor is randomly going dimmer a times the whole screen then it will go back to normal color, which is a bit brighter? what could cause this?


Someone else had this problem, the panel was junk. It just gets worse.


----------



## kuruptx

Ah dont tell me that :/


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Does anyone have a totally dead crossover 27q? Thinking about changing my housing color from white to black.


Did you buy the white version (white front)?

Cause I want to buy another one but they don't sell white ones anymore.


----------



## King4x4

Just sold two of my current korean screens (with profit!) and keeping the third one for my wife to use and thinking of ordering three 27Q-P for the smaller bezel size for landscape mode.

Going with AW but I saw his price shot up to $430 so any other vendors that are reputable at this time?


----------



## derfer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Did you buy the white version (white front)?
> 
> Cause I want to buy another one but they don't sell white ones anymore.


It's white but it has some bubbles in the paint. Doubt I could sell it.


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Looking to pick up http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033. The page keeps saying things like "glossy" but does not say its the glass model. They are talking about the frame right?

Also how do color profiles work? Are they OS based or video driver based? Where did all you guys get yours from?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Just sold two of my current korean screens (with profit!) and keeping the third one for my wife to use and thinking of ordering three 27Q-P for the smaller bezel size for landscape mode.
> 
> Going with AW but I saw his price shot up to $430 so any other vendors that are reputable at this time?


stick with aw. when their prices go up. means stock is getting low


----------



## leonardom88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> Got my 27Q today. No dead pixels. Slight backlight bleed at bottom left which isn't to bad.
> 
> Now on to the questions:
> 
> I have two previous monitors I was using with their DVI ports and I bought two DVI to mini displayport adapters and plugged them in but all three monitors will not work. Crossover is using the Dual link DVI and the other two monitors have dvi to mini display port adapters attached. I've googled it and people are saying to run a third monitor I need to get an active DVI to mini displayport adapter, is this true?
> 
> What color profile does everyone prefer to use and anyone have a link?


Ordered my q27d-p Sunday night and its waiting for me when I get home. I was just going to ask about these profiles http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#c and see if anyone has a preference or had any issues.


----------



## Descadent

i use the color profiles in this thread


----------



## leonardom88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> i use the color profiles in this thread


Thanks I'll definitely try those.


----------



## Beatwolf

So can anyone tell me what the difference between these two is?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D6689371512014478579%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D120972653693%26


----------



## BradF1979

One had speakers (the D one).


----------



## DOM.

If you look at the links scroll down

One has speakers and different stand

Other has different stand and white back

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> So can anyone tell me what the difference between these two is?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Speaker-Monitor-/120972653693?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2a88347d
> 
> and
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D163%26meid%3D6689371512014478579%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D120972653693%26


----------



## Senexion

http://i.imgur.com/xjyQ8sr.jpg
Anyone know a solution to this problem where it is detected by my computer as a display but it only sits on this screen right here.


----------



## Pure2sin

I have a couple of questions:

Does the presence of an AD board make the monitor have more lag or negative effects? I am trying to decide between a 27QD pivot which has a single DVI and no AD or OSD vs. the 2730MD pivot that has the AD and OSD.

Does having multiple inputs such as DVI, HDMI, DP and such increase lag over the just DVI models? I thought I remember reading that?

Does anyone who has had both the metal and plastic Crossover monitors have anything good or bad to say about build quality vs each other?

I would have to say I am pretty weird about seeing defects and such so I think I am going to opt for the perfect pixel.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Does having multiple inputs such as DVI, HDMI, DP and such increase lag over the just DVI models? I thought I remember reading that?


Yes, it increases input lag. Majority of people are obviously not noticing it though.


----------



## BradF1979

Does it only increase lag at non-native resolutions though?


----------



## DOM.

anyone get their shipment earlier than that FedEx estimated delivery?

Mines showing the 8th wanted it by friday









Last update

Departed FedEx Location ANCHORAGE, AK


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Does it only increase lag at non-native resolutions though?


I'm under the impression that the signal always passes through the scaler chip, so the lag is added no matter what. I can't find anything solid to back me up on that though.


----------



## Ueberglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Does the presence of an AD board make the monitor have more lag or negative effects?


Keep in mind that these monitors do have issues. The more electronics on board, the more likely a device is to be affected. At least that was my reasoning when ordering.


----------



## lithium86

A question for the people who have been using this monitor for more than 6 months-

Any failures so far? Has the screen dimmed over time / stopped working? I want to find out if these monitors can last for a long time or if they deteriorate over time.


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> Looking to pick up http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033. The page keeps saying things like "glossy" but does not say its the glass model. They are talking about the frame right?
> 
> Also how do color profiles work? Are they OS based or video driver based? Where did all you guys get yours from?


Hate to quote my own question but I need to know about the gloss


----------



## DOM.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> Hate to quote my own question but I need to know about the gloss


have you asked the seller ?

it says glossy in the pics


----------



## mrgamer81

One 27Q on my way,hope i get good one


----------



## pwspong

Got my Crossover 27Q in last week. I would say I got pretty luck with only one stuck green pixel but only the other day I started noticing that sometimes when I turn it on I get flashing pixels all over the screen. The way to fix it is to turn it back on and off. I have contacted the retailer on ebay I bought it from but wanted to post a video for you guys to watch to give me your opinion.

Note: Please Watch The Video In Full Screen (Look Carefully and you will see them all)

Video1






Video 2 (Starts Around 18 Secs)


----------



## jagz

Odd reading quite a few problems lately with these. I wonder if something has changed. I bought mine 1 year ago and it's absolutely perfect.


----------



## pwspong

Do you think I should ask for a replacement? I was so happy to get a pixel free basically the one that is stuck is so small in the corner I can barely even notice it.


----------



## kuruptx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> Got my Crossover 27Q in last week. I would say I got pretty luck with only one stuck green pixel but only the other day I started noticing that sometimes when I turn it on I get flashing pixels all over the screen. The way to fix it is to turn it back on and off. I have contacted the retailer on ebay I bought it from but wanted to post a video for you guys to watch to give me your opinion.
> 
> Note: Please Watch The Video In Full Screen (Look Carefully and you will see them all)
> 
> Video1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video 2 (Starts Around 18 Secs)


I get the same thing when turning it off and on.

And the monitor goes dim out of no where really dark then back to normal. Sometimes half the screen will be a good bit brighter than the other side.

Yeah next time i'm getting a Asus or name brand.


----------



## pwspong

Lol. Yeah I knew there would be some risk in getting a Korean Monitor but I was willing to take it with the price. I am awaiting to see what the seller says. It doesn't cause to much trouble because all I do is have to turn it off then back on. If I turn it on and its fine it stays like that until I turn off my computer. So really it only happens when it first powers on so all I have to do is turn it back off/on. It sounds simple but I hope that it doesn't escalate to a bigger problem as time passes.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> Hate to quote my own question but I need to know about the gloss


The screens themselves are glossy.


----------



## pwspong

On a side note:

I heard something ridiculous about water taking off the screen protection material put on the gloss of the 27Q Crossovers. Has anyone heard any truth to this? I usually use a micro fiber towel & drop of water to clean my screens.

How do you guys clean your Korean Glossy Monitors?


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuruptx*
> 
> I get the same thing when turning it off and on.
> 
> And the monitor goes dim out of no where really dark then back to normal. Sometimes half the screen will be a good bit brighter than the other side.
> 
> Yeah next time i'm getting a Asus or name brand.


Who on Ebay did you two buy your monitors from?


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> On a side note:
> 
> I heard something ridiculous about water taking off the screen protection material put on the gloss of the 27Q Crossovers. Has anyone heard any truth to this? I usually use a micro fiber towel & drop of water to clean my screens.
> 
> How do you guys clean your Korean Glossy Monitors?


I think you are hearing that from the people who have taken their panels out to do this. There is a process for removing the AR film matte finish on some screens by removing the panel and taking a damp cloth(s) and letting it sit on the panel. After that they are able to peel the film off.

Like this:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1039602924

I don't think the 27Q even has the film considering it is glossy already, so I dont think you have to worry about it.

I have always used distilled water mixed with white vinegar 50/50 mix. I think that is basically what the bottles of "screen cleaner" are. I would also get an fine mist sprayer.

They say to stay away from alcohol and ammonia cleaners.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> Keep in mind that these monitors do have issues. The more electronics on board, the more likely a device is to be affected. At least that was my reasoning when ordering.


Anyone else have an opinion on this or on the 2720 and 2730 monitors? Those two are the only ones that have the AD and OSD.


----------



## kuruptx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Who on Ebay did you two buy your monitors from?


acessorieswhole


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuruptx*
> 
> acessorieswhole


Are you past your 1 year warranty? I thought they were the best about returns and making sure you are taking care of?


----------



## pwspong

I got mine from bigclothcraft , I was asking about the water because yesterday I saw some gunk on my Crossover 27Q and just put a dab of saliva on my micro fiber cloth LOL to wipe it off. It worked but probably could of been a little bit more sanitary about it.


----------



## kuruptx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Are you past your 1 year warranty? I thought they were the best about returns and making sure you are taking care of?


No I just got it 3 weeks ago should I PM them on ebay?


----------



## pwspong

If it is doing the same thing as mine like you said it was I would. Does it do the same exact thing as my video showed like flickering everywhere of little pixels then stops if you turn it on and off?


----------



## kuruptx

So does turning it off and back on work with the problem when the screen goes dim aswell?


----------



## pwspong

My screen does not go dim. It just does the flashing pixels everywhere which is resolved by turning it off/on. Pretty simple but annoying and that is why I am asking the ebay seller for an explanation.


----------



## DOM.

okay got new screen no dead pixels







just some black light bleed


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOM.*
> 
> okay got new screen no dead pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just some black light bleed


Where from, what model and perfect pixel or not?


----------



## DOM.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Where from, what model and perfect pixel or not?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/110869169169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

also got here in 3days ordered it on the 31st


----------



## Senexion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Senexion*
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/xjyQ8sr.jpg
> Anyone know a solution to this problem where it is detected by my computer as a display but it only sits on this screen right here.


More pics
http://i.imgur.com/8WL8x4n.jpg
Here's the monitor devices page that shows the monitor is detected.
http://i.imgur.com/NWeInwa.jpg


----------



## DOM.

How do you make the colors darker ?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DOM.*
> 
> How do you make the colors darker ?


Could use either CCC color management or windows management to calibrate it the way you want if all you want to do is turn down color luminance


----------



## snakePT

Hello,

I've created an account just to quickly ask a question. I purchased a crossover 27q from AW (thanks for all the helpful comments you guys give btw!) and I've been reading the last pages of this thread, and there seems to be a lot of problems related to a board(?). If it's green it's problematic and if it's blue it's not (something along those lines, could have them in reverse, but it doesn't matter for my question).

I just wanted to ask, since I was unaware of this before I purchased my monitor and thus did not ask the seller about it, if I should inspect my monitor as soon as I get it, and depending on the color of my board contact AW or not?

Or is it that there's a big probability that regardless of the color, it will still work without an issue, and I should only contact the seller in the case of it breaking or having issues?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## anmolkapoor

I'm just a bit confused with something here. I have a 2011 Thunderbolt iMac and a Crossover 2720MDP with Display Port. Now, I would like to know whether I could use the Crossover as a secondary display using some kinda Mini Display Port to Display Port cable/adapter or some such to get full 2560X1440 resolution. A Mini Display Port to HDMI adapter will work but it will only give me 1920X1200 max. From what I know, Display Port is capable of giving me 2560X1440. So will a Mini Display Port to Display Port adapter work?

Thanks.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakePT*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I've created an account just to quickly ask a question. I purchased a crossover 27q from AW (thanks for all the helpful comments you guys give btw!) and I've been reading the last pages of this thread, and there seems to be a lot of problems related to a board(?). If it's green it's problematic and if it's blue it's not (something along those lines, could have them in reverse, but it doesn't matter for my question).
> 
> I just wanted to ask, since I was unaware of this before I purchased my monitor and thus did not ask the seller about it, if I should inspect my monitor as soon as I get it, and depending on the color of my board contact AW or not?
> 
> Or is it that there's a big probability that regardless of the color, it will still work without an issue, and I should only contact the seller in the case of it breaking or having issues?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


all these monitors are shipped and made with latest board. we are almost a year ago now with the bad boards. but that being said anything can happen when fedex throws it around like a rag dog


----------



## snakePT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> all these monitors are shipped and made with latest board. we are almost a year ago now with the bad boards. but that being said anything can happen when fedex throws it around like a rag dog


Oh, ok. I'm reading posts from 3 weeks ago and earlier that stated they had issues and they were gone after replacing the boards. I thought that was due to that bad board problem, but I hadn't considered it was that the board could have been damaged on the way.

Thanks for your quick reply and help


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anmolkapoor*
> 
> I'm just a bit confused with something here. I have a 2011 Thunderbolt iMac and a Crossover 2720MDP with Display Port. Now, I would like to know whether I could use the Crossover as a secondary display using some kinda Mini Display Port to Display Port cable/adapter or some such to get full 2560X1440 resolution. A Mini Display Port to HDMI adapter will work but it will only give me 1920X1200 max. From what I know, Display Port is capable of giving me 2560X1440. So will a Mini Display Port to Display Port adapter work?
> 
> Thanks.


Yes it should work, my 670s have displayport out and my apple monitor has a minidisplayport plug, I just use the adapter below and I get full resolution,etc.

Link 1

You should be able to use the adapter below for your situation or even just a cable if you can find the right one:

Link 2


----------



## Pure2sin

I am about to purchase a 2730MD-P from AW. Just waiting for an email back from Nancy Kim. I am going to take the risk of more inputs because I want to be able to hook up an laptop later on.

I will post back about my experience.


----------



## anmolkapoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Yes it should work, my 670s have displayport out and my apple monitor has a minidisplayport plug, I just use the adapter below and I get full resolution,etc.
> 
> Link 1
> 
> You should be able to use the adapter below for your situation or even just a cable if you can find the right one:
> 
> Link 2


Cheers for helping out mate. Really appreciate it.


----------



## ItsRoo

Can anybody help with my crossover 27QD please? I've posted a new thread here--->
http://www.overclock.net/t/1378617/problem-with-my-crossover-27qd-p-red-light-no-image

It's literally just sitting with an unlit black screen and a little red light...


----------



## kuruptx

Guys the accesorieswhole saler told me to check and make sure it isnt the adapter power failure how do i do that?


----------



## Descadent

get another adapter if you are talking about the adapter that converts the plug.

if you are talking about the power brick then that's the actual power


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Spent the extra 20ish bucks to get my monitor through accesorieswhole. Well see how this goes.


----------



## chropose

My monitor just arrived today, and frankly, it looks yellowish on white screen. I've tried increasing and decreasing the brightness but doesn't solve the problem. Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chropose*
> 
> My monitor just arrived today, and frankly, it looks yellowish on white screen. I've tried increasing and decreasing the brightness but doesn't solve the problem. Am I doing something wrong?


It's more than likely the stock colors of the monitor that you're seeing the yellow warm tint, use one of the color profiles in this thread. Or you can calibrate the monitor's colors through windows yourself or use a 3rd party such as colormunki or datacolor.

The brightness adjustment won't do anything as it's just increasing and decreasing the level of backlight for the monitor.


----------



## derfer

I guess I was lucky. I use to have to calibrate all my monitors but this one came pretty much perfect out of box. My friend's has the yellow thing and that wasn't really something you could address with a profile. I mean it's usually a defect. Covered half his screen but not the other.


----------



## Rykz

Just purchased a Crossover 2730MD Overclockable from AW. Does anyone know how much VRAM Battlefield 3 takes @ 1440p?


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rykz*
> 
> Just purchased a Crossover 2720MD Overclockable from AW. Does anyone know how much VRAM Battlefield 3 takes @ 1440p?


You mean 2730MD? I am about to order one too.


----------



## kevinsbane

They can't overclock. Don't buy them for overclocking.


----------



## cooler2442

I don't see color profiles in the first post. Can someone link me the one people recommend using?


----------



## Senexion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> I don't see color profiles in the first post. Can someone link me the one people recommend using?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors there are color profiles on this thread.


----------



## Pure2sin

Well it's down to the 2730MD-P Vs 27QD-P

I was thinking I wanted the AD and OSD because I could hook up a laptop to it but I am starting to think I don't want the headache from all the extra stuff and possible extra lag. I might just get the 27QD-P.


----------



## Jordan32

Looking at purchasing http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411&_uhb=1#ht_14508wt_1163

Just wondering what back-light bleed is like ? any ?

pictures ?

I am not really sure what to expect..


----------



## Descadent

you got nothing to worry about

buy it

if you are curious more about backlight bleed, search in this thread


----------



## ItsRoo

For what reason would my new Crossover 27QD simply not connect, the red light stays red instead of turning blue, I have a GTX 560, I cant figure out the problem.


----------



## mones

Hi folks, I'm new to overclock.net








I've received a Crossover 27qd a couple of days ago!
No dead pixels and just a little light bleeding..
But there is something strange: the monitor after about 2.5 hours of usage starts to loose signal at interval!
Starting with some artifacts (with a duration of milliseconds) and after a while more it just loose signal for 1 second..
Is this a known issues? what test can I do? unfortunately I don't have another video card with dual link dvi..

Bye..


----------



## Pure2sin

This is not making me want to buy a 27QD lol


----------



## Descadent

everyone, read the thread, search the thread, check if anything came loose, replace dl-dvi cable etc. if all else fails contact your seller


----------



## Azefore

Indeed, forum threads, more than anything only show those with problems with their product. The majority that buy and use the 27Q have no issues what so ever, Descadent and I (along with others) can both attest to the quality of the Crossovers.


----------



## ItsRoo

Im not slagging them off at all, i understand they are remarkable pieces of kit according to others reviews, I just cannot get mine to word, their must be a compatibility issue of some sort, I have no idea because nobody knows how to trouble shoot my problem, there is no help online, instructions are in Korean, although i doubt they would help, and the seller on ebay has ignored my emails for 5 days.


----------



## Descadent

you gotta troubleshoot on your own, everything is in this thread. like I said check cables, open it up and make sure nothing is loose after shipping, etc. this is all what your seller will tell you to do anyways

most of all make sure you are using the dl dvi cable that came with the monitor first off. the issue isn't your 560 most likely. make sure you have it plugged into dl-dvi-i or dl-dvi-d slot on the card too.


----------



## Azefore

I referring to those who see others having problems and troubleshooting them and then say it's a sign to stay clear of the product, didn't mean you ItsRoo lol. But I'd give the email another 3 days tops, what seller was it?


----------



## araman

Hey guys, I am the owner of a 27Q LED-P and recently bought a step up/down voltage transformer for my monitor (just as a precaution, I think I already have the proper brick), however I am really wet behind the ears with electrical concerning things like this and imports so I am a bit nervous about setting this monitor up with the transformer - could anyone help me out here?

I bought this transformer for reference: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MWAKVU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Out of the box, it has the _input_ voltage set to 240V, do I just plug the transformer right in to the wall and then plug the brick right into the "*Output* 110V" slot on the device? The other port is "Output 220V". The last thing I want to do here is fry my monitor, so any pointers here would be much appreciated, thanks!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Hey guys, I am the owner of a 27Q LED-P and recently bought a step up/down voltage transformer for my monitor (just as a precaution, I think I already have the proper brick), however I am really wet behind the ears with electrical concerning things like this and imports so I am a bit nervous about setting this monitor up with the transformer - could anyone help me out here?
> 
> I bought this transformer for reference: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MWAKVU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Out of the box, it has the _input_ voltage set to 240V, do I just plug the transformer right in to the wall and then plug the brick right into the "*Output* 110V" slot on the device? The other port is "Output 220V". The last thing I want to do here is fry my monitor, so any pointers here would be much appreciated, thanks!


Can't comment with 100% certainty but the input voltage should be set to match the wall outlet (US I presume, so ~120v) and then you'd plug in the korean power lead to the output 220v since that's the only one it'd fit into. That's what I cant tell from the pictures and what you've stated. However if you want to make your life easier I just suggest just using a standard US power kettle lead, I did for two of my Crossovers and there wasn't a problem, link below. If your using the transformer in addition to a standard US power cable you don't need to.

Power Cable


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ItsRoo*
> 
> Im not slagging them off at all, i understand they are remarkable pieces of kit according to others reviews, I just cannot get mine to word, their must be a compatibility issue of some sort, I have no idea because nobody knows how to trouble shoot my problem, there is no help online, instructions are in Korean, although i doubt they would help, and the seller on ebay has ignored my emails for 5 days.


Who did you buy from?

Just an FYI most of them are not around on the weekends.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Can't comment with 100% certainty but the input voltage should be set to match the wall outlet (US I presume, so ~120v) and then you'd plug in the korean power lead to the output 220v since that's the only one it'd fit into. That's what I cant tell from the pictures and what you've stated. However if you want to make your life easier I just suggest just using a standard US power kettle lead, I did for two of my Crossovers and there wasn't a problem, link below. If your using the transformer in addition to a standard US power cable you don't need to.
> 
> Power Cable


Here's the power brick I have, which was not the one that came with the monitor, the one that came with it had the wrong specs, yes this uses a US power cable, not a korean.
http://i.imgur.com/16QqmLM.jpg

And here's the output side of the transformer:
http://i.imgur.com/4pLeYj4.jpg

I know it's not necessarily needed, BUT I'm doing this because a few months ago I had flickering issues and while they have mostly gone away, when I am taxing the grid on my house (space heater, blow drier, heating pad, etc) sometimes the problem starts back up again. I have an older house and I did this to help curb any future issues and regulate the flow to the monitor. Does that make sense? Am I on the right track here?


----------



## maple2

Can we enable DDC/CI of crossover? I am thinking about using ScreenBright to lower the backlight of crossover.
I found the information here

http://superuser.com/questions/187302/tool-to-adjust-monitors-backlight-brightness-in-windows

I find the screen is too bright with the lowest setting.
I want to turn down the backlight, so I won't use the graphic driver to change the brightness.

It seems that the gamma, red blue and yellow of this screen can not be changed, the only thing can be changed a little is the backlight, which is done through that two buttons.

Anyone know whether the .ICM file changes the monitor configuration?
is it possible to change the monitor configuration by some software?


----------



## snakePT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Here's the power brick I have, which was not the one that came with the monitor, the one that came with it had the wrong specs, yes this uses a US power cable, not a korean.
> http://i.imgur.com/16QqmLM.jpg
> 
> And here's the output side of the transformer:
> http://i.imgur.com/4pLeYj4.jpg
> 
> I know it's not necessarily needed, BUT I'm doing this because a few months ago I had flickering issues and while they have mostly gone away, when I am taxing the grid on my house (space heater, blow drier, heating pad, etc) sometimes the problem starts back up again. I have an older house and I did this to help curb any future issues and regulate the flow to the monitor. Does that make sense? Am I on the right track here?


So are you saying the cable/brick that comes with the monitor is not entirely reliable? If it's not, I must look to changing it myself. I'm in the UK though. My monitor should arrive today, so I'd like to know this before I plug it in xD


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakePT*
> 
> So are you saying the cable/brick that comes with the monitor is not entirely reliable? If it's not, I must look to changing it myself. I'm in the UK though. My monitor should arrive today, so I'd like to know this before I plug it in xD


Hard to say for people buying right now, I was a very early adopter and got my 27Q LED-P back in 03/2012. People buying then were frequently getting a brick that shouldn't be used on a US power grid without some sort of voltage regulator.


----------



## snakePT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Hard to say for people buying right now, I was a very early adopter and got my 27Q LED-P back in 03/2012. People buying then were frequently getting a brick that shouldn't be used on a US power grid without some sort of voltage regulator.


Hmm, okay. My problem is that I don't know much about those things. If I recall correctly, my G27 came with a power brick as well, so I'll compare the values on the sticker and see if they match. Last thing I want to do after shelling out some cash is break my newest toy xD

And it's arrived already, can't wait to get home. Got dispatched on Wednesday, got it today. I think if I had ordered just slightly earlier and it got sent out on Tuesday I'd have gotten it last Friday. Still not as fast as all of you in the US, but can't say it's a bad service at all, quite the opposite. I just hope when I get home and try it out, that it's all working properly!

I do wonder if I'll notice much of a change, since I'm already coming from a 26'' 1200p screen (kinda wish I had a crappy screen so I could notice the difference even more xP). Though as far as I can see, the colors on the Crossover will be vastly superior. My current monitor (a Samsung T260) really pisses me off with the viewing angle. From the way I sit and the place where the monitor stays, I always lose some color either on the top or the bottom. Since I always prefer eye candy to fps, that always annoys me! Might get another 7970 soon so that I can take full advantage of the new resolution!









Also, I don't know for sure, but since my mother already accepted and signed for the package back home, I don't believe that I have to pay any customs, so yay for that!









Also, if I may just ask, any 100x100 vesa mount will do just fine for the monitor? I've yet to try it, but if it is too close to me, I think I will put it on the wall behind my desk. But I do imagine that it will be, as sometimes my current screen already seems to be too close. I was looking at a mount such as this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Auna-LCD-503A-Mount-Inculdes-Cable/dp/B007PBNDDI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2OSW0H0976NEX&coliid=IZ5KMF05RESAC) because it's not that expensive and seems sturdy. I just need to check if I can turn it around to make the monitor Portrait.

I want to go home! ^^


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Just got mine from AW, pixel perfect it seems. Installed color profile for it and seems good. Need to find some good media to test with it to make sure


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> 
> 
> Just got mine from AW, pixel perfect it seems. Installed color profile for it and seems good. Need to find some good media to test with it to make sure


Timescapes 1440p version


----------



## Pure2sin

Just bought a 27QD-P perfect pixel from AW. I will post again when I receive it.


----------



## BradF1979

Why is the 27Q more than the 27QD? I really don't want speakers in mine but I shouldn't have to pay more to not have them... lol


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradF1979*
> 
> Why is the 27Q more than the 27QD? I really don't want speakers in mine but I shouldn't have to pay more to not have them... lol


No metal (from what I can tell) in the bezel might be the main culprit when the 27Q is full metal, that and an easier to mass produce stock stand compared to the non-pivot and pivot 27Q.


----------



## darren456

Hello everyone, I have been reading about these korean Monitor and am going to buy one, there are so many different ones on ebay i just need basic no speaker just dvi hookup whats best one to get?


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darren456*
> 
> Hello everyone, I have been reading about these korean Monitor and am going to buy one, there are so many different ones on ebay i just need basic no speaker just dvi hookup whats best one to get?


This is directly from (Accessorieswhole)
Quote:


> The difference between 27Q LED monitor and 27QD LED monitor is that
> 27QD LED monitor has plastic frame with built-in speakers.
> and 27Q LED monitor has metal frame with no built-in speakers.
> 
> After model name -p means Pivot stand monitor.
> 27Q LED-P and 27QD-P
> 
> Those monitors do not have AD board and don't have OSD menu, so these can be only connected by Compatible graphic card support DVI-D Dual link.
> You can't use the monitor with Laptop, Macbook and on board graphic card.
> 
> And 2720MDP monitor and 2730MD monitor has AD board, OSD menu and multi input port.


----------



## kuruptx

Ok my CrossOverQ is doing it again half the screen dim and here is a photo. What is the problem and what is causing this is it bleed?


----------



## darren456

oh this gives me second thoughts


----------



## kuruptx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darren456*
> 
> oh this gives me second thoughts


It don't do it all the time this is the first time in few days its done it still though 400 dollars it shouldnt the acessorieswhole saler told me to check and see if the green light is on on my power adapter and it is so i don't know.
I wonder if a PC shop could fix this because thats my only option you all think they could>?


----------



## snakePT

Btw, just came on to say I got my 27Q (like I said in my previous post) and when very excited to open it up when I got home. I'm not an expert at monitor stuff, and in all honesty I think that's for the best, cause I checked for dead/stuck pixels for a grand total of 15 minutes and saw nothing. Even if I do have some dead or stuck pixel, if I couldn't find it in those 15 minutes I'm more than happy ^^ Dunno about backlight bleed, dunno what really to look for, specially and my living room is a bit lighted at almost all times. I did notice the bottom right corner of the screen was a bit brighter than the rest, but if that's it, it doesn't bother me at all.

Other than getting small icons, I must say I didn't notice much change in the monitor size/resolution. I did come from a 26'' 1920x1200 screen, so I will put the blame on that. But the image quality itself, oh man, that's an entire new world! Colors look amazing, and I no longer have either the top or the bottom of my screen fading out because of damned viewing angles! ^^ I still don't know if I'm going to put it on the wall or not, but oh well.

In regards to gaming, I was very concerned about my FPS dropping quite a bit, but it's surprisingly the opposite. Lol, yeah, I actually get more FPS now with the exact same settings, except AA is off. And to be honest, I don't see the need for it at this res. Tomb Raider looks gorgeous, BF3 looks really good as well. Was expecting to get a bigger viewing zone in LoL but oh well









All in all, very happy with my purchase. And will definitely recommend AW to everyone looking for a monitor. I didn't need to speak to him much, but I did contact previous to my purchase to ask him about customs over in the UK, and he explained what he could and what he did on his end very well and openly. He does seem very friendly and I'm sure if I did have problems with my monitor that he'd do the best to help









I didn't have anything wrong in my package, a bit of the bubble wrap was torn, but the box itself was fine. My only 'problem' is that the DVI cable that came with the monitor seems to have one bad screw. It still works, but is just very temperamental. But since I don't plan to be plugging and unplugging that cable back and forward that's okay for me.

As you can probably tell, I'm a very satisfied customer ^^ Now I just hope the monitor will last


----------



## chropose

The display is QHD270QHD270QHD270 on screen resolution. Is this normal? What you guys have on your crossover?


----------



## smellyfungus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chropose*
> 
> The display is QHD270QHD270QHD270 on screen resolution. Is this normal? What you guys have on your crossover?


mine says the same for my led-p


----------



## chropose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smellyfungus*
> 
> mine says the same for my led-p


Ok, thanks smellyfungus.


----------



## darren456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> This is directly from (Accessorieswhole)


Thanks. I have a radeon 5800 it has 2 dvi connections how to a check if its dual link dvi?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darren456*
> 
> Thanks. I have a radeon 5800 it has 2 dvi connections how to a check if its dual link dvi?


Both of them are dual link DVI connectors.


----------



## darren456

I only need 24 inch and can get the dell ultra sharp for under $300; is this crossover a lot better in pq then the dell?


----------



## kuruptx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darren456*
> 
> I only need 24 inch and can get the dell ultra sharp for under $300; is this crossover a lot better in pq then the dell?


if it works then it is imo!


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Day 2 on my Crossover, i'm pleasantly surprised how playable 1440p is with my 7950 (@1100/1600). I can never ever go back to a AG monitor again, the colors pop so much better and no grain from the filter is just so nice.

One question, when using the ICC in this thread, that stays active while in game right? For some reason I feel like the colors go a little off in game or it could be my mind playing tricks on me.

Also when applying an ICC profile, it will only effect one monitor right? I have my Plasma tv I shot games over too that I had celebrated professorially via the TV menus. The ICC I use on my Crossover won't effect my tv when I change the display over, right?


----------



## kuruptx

Well I was trying to make sure my DVI cable and power cable was attached good to my monitor and I noticed the top of the screen where the white goes over top the screen was a little loose and this was on the side that kept going dim, so I tightened up the screws that go down the back side some were not all the way tightened and it made my screen go back to normal. still waiting for a response from the accessorie whole saler so if this keeps working ill keep it.


----------



## Senexion

For anyone buying from Accessorieswhole, if you receive a faulty monitor and anything but the main-connector board is faulty they do not send you a new one or any other parts.
I'm not sure if this is a new thing from him because I heard that he provided other boards for other people but he is requiring me to ship the monitor back (He is paying for the return shipping) and is just issuing me a full refund.
I'm extremely disappointed because I heard so much of great customer service from here and now I either have to pay for $100 shipping back here or an extra $70 for the monitor again because he raised his prices on the monitor.


----------



## kuruptx

Complete and utter Bull crap. this sucks.

Anyone give some links for the TOP rated monitors that are 500 dollars and below please?


----------



## MenacingTuba

All of the other sub 500$ 2560x1440 models are Korean's from ebay or local re-brands. Monoprice has a 30 day return policy on 2x 1440p monitors:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=2560x1440

The glossy Aurias from microcenter [replaced by grainy CCFL panels] have terrible black levels (see Tomshardware Review) as do the NixeusVue's (see anandtech's review) and UK only DGM's (see the TFT Central review), expect the same thing from the multi-input models monoprice is selling.

Overlords:
http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/displays


----------



## darren456

Is it worth taking the chance with these Korean monitors maybe when they were $300 but for $400+ I don't think so


----------



## darren456

Is


----------



## kuruptx

Ordered my CrossOver 27QD LED BLADE from dream-seller hopefully he's got good product and this monitor is good im excited !


----------



## Ghost24

All, since I have learned so much from this thread thought I would share my experience with buying a Crossover on EBay. After reading though this thread and others on and off for a few months I ordered a 27Q LED-P from accessories whole Monday night about 5:30pm. Incredibly it was at my doorstep today at 3:10pm - less than 48 hours (I live in California). I set it up, and it appears to work perfectly. After thinking about things I decided not to spend the extra $100 for a pixel perfect version, and just take my chances. I have run a few pixel tests, and as far as I can tell, I have no dead or stuck pixels....So I am pretty happy now. My other monitor is an HP 2511, and the difference with this Crossover is like night and day. At some point, I will probably get a second one since I have a two monitor two PC set up in my home office.

Anyway just wanted to share my experience and say thanks to all as I really learned a lot from this thread.

I do have one parting question - I assume there is no reason one can't use a regular US power cord off the power supply as opposed the Korean power cord with an adapter, yes?

Thanks again.


----------



## Pure2sin

If they raised their prices they should honor the price you paid previously since you received a defective monitor. I would contact them again.


----------



## Senexion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> If they raised their prices they should honor the price you paid previously since you received a defective monitor. I would contact them again.


That's what I asked and they said they would not.
As an update to my previous comment I told them that I felt that they did not provide the custom support/service that I had heard from many forums and websites and I was extremely dissapointed. Once they received this message their support team manager contacted me and told me that they are shipping out a new monitor as soon as possible. Hopefully this one works.


----------



## Pure2sin

Kind of a no-brainer on their side. Either have your money or not. Don't know why they didn't do that the first time Lol


----------



## Senexion

They said because they spent so much on shipping the main connector board to me and then they paid for the shipping back to them for the faulty monitor.
But I assumed this was all covered by their "warranty".
Regardless I'm getting my monitor and I'm just going to be happy if it works with little problems with the display.


----------



## tehpsyc

So I've been in constant contact with red-cap trying to get my LM27WQ1-SDA2 PCB replaced. This is the LG PCB that's at the top of the monitor in the center, under the metal plate shielding. I have 2 Crossover monitors, and one has been having problems. When I swapped that board, the problem moved from one monitor to the other so I'm fairly certain that's the source of the issue. (Not to mention over the course of the last few weeks red-cap sent me a new LED and Primary PCB, so those have already been replaced and can't be the issue). Sadly today red-cap came back and said that the PCB I need to replace is not user replaceable (despite it being very easily replaced). Actually to be honest the message wasn't clear, the only thing that was clear was that he wanted to send me the LG PCB back to him for whatever reason, while also indicating it wasn't user replaceable (perhaps a language mistake).

So, I'm wondering if anyone on here has an extra one of these PCBs from either a dead monitor or who knows what other situation they'd be willing to let me purchase, or knows any sources. I found a couple sources online from China that appear to sell it, but I don't know how reputable they are and I'd like to order from somewhere in the US if possible.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/logic-board-quality-guarantee-6870C-0301A-LG-TV-LM27WQ1-SDA2-logic-board-LCD-board-High-quality/720534533.html

Most of the boards that I've found that can be replaced are from this aliexpress.com site, which seems to be an ebay type site for China.

Any feedback is appreciated.


----------



## Pure2sin

It seems like if there is an issue its better to shipped the whole monitor back.


----------



## totaltard

Just got my Crossover 27Q in yesterday from allkillsale. Paid for pixel perfect, and got a pixel perfect monitor. Ordered on Saturday, got here on Tuesday- to the Southern US. Very very satisfied with the monitor. Very uniform panel. There was some backlight bleed when I first plugged it in on the right bezel, but after adjusting the brightness and the gamma, I cannot see it from any angle.

Currently I have it attached to a monoprice desk mount and I'm having some trust issues. Any idea how much this thing weighs without the stand? I've searched this thread and found like 3 different answers. The mount is obviously under some stress, but not enough to where I'm worried that it will come crashing down any second. Had to really put my back into turning the allen wrench to set the resistance as such where it wouldn't sag.

Been lurking OCN for quite a while, but after thumbing through 2340193410978 articles about keyboards and Korean based IPS panels, I thought I might actually post something.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Senexion*
> 
> For anyone buying from Accessorieswhole, if you receive a faulty monitor and anything but the main-connector board is faulty they do not send you a new one or any other parts.
> I'm not sure if this is a new thing from him because I heard that he provided other boards for other people but he is requiring me to ship the monitor back (He is paying for the return shipping) and is just issuing me a full refund.
> I'm extremely disappointed because I heard so much of great customer service from here and now I either have to pay for $100 shipping back here or an extra $70 for the monitor again because he raised his prices on the monitor.


I got replacement connector and backlight PCBs from them just a few weeks ago. Did you provide any proof that there was damage? I provided a picture of a scorch mark from the defective backlight pcb and a video showing the fade out effect to get the other pcb replaced, both overnight shipped for free.


----------



## kuruptx

Is the crossover not well recieved or something


----------



## kuruptx

Correction the crossover blade.


----------



## Xenderwind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuruptx*
> 
> Correction the crossover blade.


the non speaker version has a metal casing


----------



## Pure2sin

I just got my 27QD-P from AW today even though is said it wouldn't be here until Monday. I was happy about that.

As for the monitor all I can say is WOW. I will do a full review this weekend but it looks great. The colors were very good out of the box but I found a site with color profiles and the one I am using now is pretty spot on.

I don't have any dead pixels but I paid extra for the perfect pixel.

The only issue I am having is with the speakers on this unit. For some reason when I run the audio cord from my Mobo to the monitor it causes a buzzing and static noise. I thought it was the monitor but when I plugged the audio cable into my phone and played some music it was fine without any static or buzzing?

The picture is fantastic and I am glad I made the purchase.


----------



## adgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I just got my 27QD-P from AW today even though is said it wouldn't be here until Monday. I was happy about that.
> 
> As for the monitor all I can say is WOW. I will do a full review this weekend but it looks great. The colors were very good out of the box but I found a site with color profiles and the one I am using now is pretty spot on.
> 
> I don't have any dead pixels but I paid extra for the perfect pixel.
> 
> The only issue I am having is with the speakers on this unit. For some reason when I run the audio cord from my Mobo to the monitor it causes a buzzing and static noise. I thought it was the monitor but when I plugged the audio cable into my phone and played some music it was fine without any static or buzzing?
> 
> The picture is fantastic and I am glad I made the purchase.


The static sound might be caused by any power source, for instance if your 3.5mm is close to a power souce, it causes distortion


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adgame*
> 
> The static sound might be caused by any power source, for instance if your 3.5mm is close to a power souce, it causes distortion


The weird thing is it is not present in the BIOS but once windows loads it starts.


----------



## ducatiss

Hi
I got my Crossover 27Q LED-P today and noticed a large "patch" of dead pixels.
I have contacted the seller and am waiting for a response. But I wanted to post on here and find whether this was considered one dead pixel or lots of dead pixels. The spot in question is the blue spot on the screen - sorry for my photography skills.

I have attached some images.






Edit
Just to provide some more information.
If I view the monitor on a dead pixel test web site the area appears the worst under black. You can just see it under Green and possibly Red. But White and Blue it does not appear.
The monitor came in great condition and there were no other marks on the monitor. It was packed very very well.
I have tried to clean the area thinking it was something on the panel but that makes no difference.

Any advice is appreciated.

It is an amazing panel for someone coming from some cheap 24 LCDs.

Thanks


----------



## Pure2sin

I am ordering a shielded cable to see if it helps but:

I have a 27QD and have static when the monitor speakers are hooked into the sound on my Mobo:

This is the weird part:

When my Iphone is hooked to the speakers on the monitor there is not static or crackling

When my headphones are hooked up to the computer there is no static or crackling

It only happens when the monitor and the computer are hooked up to each other via a 3.5mm audio cable?

***I did manage to overclock the monitor to 66hz*** lol


----------



## kuruptx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducatiss*
> 
> Hi
> I got my Crossover 27Q LED-P today and noticed a large "patch" of dead pixels.
> I have contacted the seller and am waiting for a response. But I wanted to post on here and find whether this was considered one dead pixel or lots of dead pixels. The spot in question is the blue spot on the screen - sorry for my photography skills.
> 
> I have attached some images.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Not sure what the Blue smudge is not good I wouldn't think Not sure though.

I'm looking forward to getting my CrossOverQ Blade though, I don't mind the covering isn't metal, thats not a issue for me at all, speakers dont care won't use them, I love the black glossy look to it and its just as nice from what I see as the CrossOver Q because I already have that one aswell.


----------



## rogersjd14

Just to follow-up on my issue from a few weeks ago...

I was getting a blank screen once in a while. The backlight was on, and the light was blue in the corner, but there was no picture. I opened up the monitor, and on the top there is a small red and white cable that plugs into the top of the monitor frame. This cable was loose. When i secured it properly with some tape, the issue went away!


----------



## Pure2sin

Anyone else hearing a high pitched noise when their monitor is first turned on?

Also

Anyone with a 27QD with speakers....Do you hear a popping noise when turning your monitor on and off?


----------



## Sniping

I assume that this question has been asked many times before but which Crossover is the best out of all the versions? I'm taking price into consideration; I'm looking for a good value Korean IPS without sacrificing too much build quality.


----------



## mrgamer81

So i finally got my crossover q27 from accessorieswhole. The screen is beautiful. No backlight bleed, and one stuck pixel on the right bottom corner, but the thing is i can´t get used to 60hz lol. Thinking going back to my 950D


----------



## Koehler

I felt 60Hz is enough for FPS gaming.

I have the Samsung S23A950 and it's perfect for fast paced FPS games like COD Black Ops 2.


----------



## pwspong

I want to get a new power adapter does anyone have any recommendations? I am using the one that came with the Crossover LED-P 27 but I want an American power adapter.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> I want to get a new power adapter does anyone have any recommendations? I am using the one that came with the Crossover LED-P 27 but I want an American power adapter.


I think my power brick is making a clicking noise. Although I am using a old computer power cord to go from the power brick to the outlet. I would be interested in a American power brick too. I am about to check Monoprice right now.

I am also hearing a high pitched noise when I first turn my monitor on for about the first 5-10 minutes.

Does anyone else notice that their monitor turns off and back on quickly at the windows login screen?


----------



## pwspong

There has to be some crossover owners on here that can link us a new power adapter.....


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> There has to be some crossover owners on here that can link us a new power adapter.....


Never has been a problem when I had mine, I just used the standard brick and swapped out the power cable for a US standard one, something not settling right with the Korean brick?


----------



## MenacingTuba

I replaced my 2720MDP's power supply with this today:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/230838320475?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2143wt_1393

My monitor always flickered for a few minutes after being powered on, now it seems to work properly.


----------



## Pure2sin

I am waiting back to hear from AW.

I think just about any 4pin power supply will work. I know there are a lot of them on Ebay and such but you just have to make sure it has the right specs.


----------



## kuruptx

Hey Guys this is my black light is this normal LED Bleed?

Acceptable?





The second one is a bad photo taken in dark room, little out of focus you only see it in black areas, i turned my brightness 5 notches down from max brightness just curious is this okay?


----------



## Sandoness

Got the crossover27q, amazing product, couldn't be happier with it. Contrast is incredible. but please,

How the hell do I clean this without scratching it or ruining the monitor? I have flies in the house and cant do anything about it, And already my screen has heaps of FLy vomit/crap on it.. I dont trust all the Google search results, this is too expensive to screw up. Any help will be MUCH appreciated, thanks.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sandoness*
> 
> Got the crossover27q, amazing product, couldn't be happier with it. Contrast is incredible. but please,
> 
> How the hell do I clean this without scratching it or ruining the monitor? I have flies in the house and cant do anything about it, And already my screen has heaps of FLy vomit/crap on it.. I dont trust all the Google search results, this is too expensive to screw up. Any help will be MUCH appreciated, thanks.


White vinegar and distilled water 50/50 mix in a sprayer with a fine mist. A microfiber towel of some sort should also be used. In most cases you should not directly spray the solution on the monitor but should spray some on the towel then wipe the monitor.

Not sure why you have flies but I am betting you could get rid of them? lol


----------



## Sandoness

Ok thanks, Ill give it a try dude.

Do I just spray it onto the cloth, then let te monitor dry by itself?
I mean this fly stuff seems pretty tough to get off, its hard enough getting it off the bezel with my nails, im worried im going to press too hard or wipe excessively.
I live in NZ and right now its at the peak temperature and humidity for these things to breed like nuts. When im out at work i cant exactly do a whole lot. I've become more aggressive with the rolled up newspaper and flyspray now though.


----------



## Pure2sin

Spray it on the cloth and wipe down the monitor in the spots you need it. You shouldn't be soaking the cloth though. You should be just putting enough to dampen the cloth to the point where you can wipe it off with another side of the cloth.


----------



## Sjors Vriens

Hello I am looking for another 1440p IPS to possibly replace my Catleap. I'm looking at the Crossover 27Q since I only need the 1 DVI port model. I would like to get the original 27Q over the Blade version since the original version's stand looks so much better and is adjustable, and I won't use monitor speakers anyway. My question is do the original 27Q 's still have the blue tint that was brought up a year ago?

Original 27Q owners, how have these monitors lasted for you and would you recommend it still? Are the Crossovers still the better K-IPS monitors out there?

Thank you,
Sjors


----------



## snakePT

Just to let you guys know, my monitor is still rocking hard. Though there is something strange going on every now and then (my monitor seems to display some strange image for a second, and then goes back to normal), I'm still happy with it.

I just came to warn anyone thinking of purchasing one, that never has purchased something from such a far away place and is unaware of the customs tax. I'm in the UK, and like my previous posts stated, I got my monitor and no mentioning of customs whatsoever. Now, when I've had my monitor for like 2 weeks or something, I got a letter yesterday, and it was stating that I had to pay just a little over 30£ in customs.

So you might actually have to pay it quite some time later after you've purchased it! Just bear that in mind if, like me, you'd assume you wouldn't have to pay tax and then spend the money elsewhere. I'm now just hoping it's okay if I just pay it at the end of the month, seeing as I don't have enough cash to pay them now.

Regards.


----------



## Kentaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Anyone else hearing a high pitched noise when their monitor is first turned on?
> 
> Also
> 
> Anyone with a 27QD with speakers....Do you hear a popping noise when turning your monitor on and off?


I get the popping sound on my 27qd, I believe it's static or some such. Somebody in this thread had opened it up and disconnected the speakers to stop the popping.

Loving my 27qd, contemplating getting a second crossover with more inputs for my consoles...


----------



## Corduroy

I've just bought a Pixel Perfect 27Q LED-P crossover from accesorieswhole. Reading this thread convinced me to take the risk. 1440p monitors around here are expensive (around USD 1000), so getting one for USD 630 (including local taxes) was too tempting. I'll post my impression when it arrives.


----------



## kuruptx

Hey guys im looking for some nice color profiles for my Crossover LED Blade anyone post any never downloaded none want to try a great one out?


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kuruptx*
> 
> Hey guys im looking for some nice color profiles for my Crossover LED Blade anyone post any never downloaded none want to try a great one out?


I found these:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm#c

I am using the 2720MDP profile right now but the other ones are good too.


----------



## Pure2sin

I had to send a video to AW to see what was going on with the popping and the buzzing/high pitch from my monitor.

They think it is the inverter and have forwarded the issue to Crossover to see what they want to do. I will report back when I hear back from AW


----------



## Wiz33

Anyone have any experience taking apart a 2720MDP. Bigclothcraft is sending me a new inverter board but they are not sure they can supply any document on how to dismantle the unit. So far I remove the 4 screws hold the stand onto the back and I removed the 4 screws on the bottom in the back but I see no other screws and the front and back half is not separating (It's not simply lifting off and I really don't want to force it yet). So if anyone have any experience opening the unit up. Drop me a note or reply here/ Thanks.


----------



## Althulas

Hi Wizz is a simple job to do

1. Lock your stand with the big screw otherwise it will shoot up when you remove the monitor.

2. Remove the screws that hole the monitor to the stand and remove your panel

3. Remove the screws at the rear I think there was four but they are clearly visable.

4. Next you need to insert a thin tool between the bezel and main monitor body, working your way round carefully to prise it off. I used a plastic door wedge







and would recommend using something plastic to ovoid damaging the bezel.

5. You can then lift up the LCD panel itself it just held in place with clips and detach the video lead. Care is needed with the lead as it is construction is flimsy.

6. Once the lcd panel is removed you have access to driver boards etc under a bit of tin wear.


----------



## kuruptx

Guys I'm playing in a dark room with very little light the one profile I'm using some say make it reddish what's the best profile for my enviroment


----------



## Wiz33

Thanks for the help .I was just afraid that I might have missed a screw or there were some snap tight joints that I have to be careful with. I'll give it another go.


----------



## apav

I just noticed something guys. Look where the Crossover 2720MDP Gold is on this chart. (Sorted by the purple bar's value in ascending order, look for 9.7)
http://down.playwares.com/xe/files/attach/images/53/296/087/41b1accbf0d1ede9e1d0ced2f13325df.jpg

From here. They rated the Crossover 2720MDP at 9.7ms, where as my single DVI Catleap is rated at 11.4ms. How is a multi input faster than a single input, or is this testing inaccurate? If it is indeed faster, I'm going to get this monitor to replace my Catleap. I need a multi input but I'm afraid they're all slower than my Catleap.


----------



## mrgamer81

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snakePT*
> 
> Just to let you guys know, my monitor is still rocking hard. Though there is something strange going on every now and then (my monitor seems to display some strange image for a second, and then goes back to normal), I'm still happy with it.
> 
> I just came to warn anyone thinking of purchasing one, that never has purchased something from such a far away place and is unaware of the customs tax. I'm in the UK, and like my previous posts stated, I got my monitor and no mentioning of customs whatsoever. Now, when I've had my monitor for like 2 weeks or something, I got a letter yesterday, and it was stating that I had to pay just a little over 30£ in customs.
> 
> So you might actually have to pay it quite some time later after you've purchased it! Just bear that in mind if, like me, you'd assume you wouldn't have to pay tax and then spend the money elsewhere. I'm now just hoping it's okay if I just pay it at the end of the month, seeing as I don't have enough cash to pay them now.
> 
> Regards.


the same happened to me. A week later i got a letter from fedex, and now i have to pay 86,50€ . So total price is 421€ for the monitor.


----------



## m.oreilly

my crossover 27Q is still running tops


----------



## DrLeoMarvin

Well after almost a year I'm pretty sure that the back light just said goodbye on my led-p.

When I put a flashlight to the monitor I can see the picture so it looks like it's dead to me.


----------



## geotabs

With all the problems people are reporting about the CrossOver, is this still a good option or is one of the other Korean brands better?

I understand that AW is the go to guy here for crossover but how is he able to get the A+ panels when the other re sellers don't? You would think this would be stated on the box. AW is selling the 27Q stating that it is a "This is By-Pass Model and doesn't have AD Board" what is the difference?

If there are any other Canadians out there who have bought one, what re seller did you use and how much was the duty and taxes? I read early on in this post that red-cap put on the slip $70 and under gift, is that something that is still done?

Thanks for the help


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrLeoMarvin*
> 
> Well after almost a year I'm pretty sure that the back light just said goodbye on my led-p.
> 
> When I put a flashlight to the monitor I can see the picture so it looks like it's dead to me.


This is pretty scary. I've had mine for about a month or so and it's been fantastic...but I was definitely hoping it would last a lot longer than a year. It makes me want to wait on buying a second one...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geotabs*
> 
> With all the problems people are reporting about the CrossOver, is this still a good option or is one of the other Korean brands better?
> 
> I understand that AW is the go to guy here for crossover but how is he able to get the A+ panels when the other re sellers don't? You would think this would be stated on the box. AW is selling the 27Q stating that it is a "This is By-Pass Model and doesn't have AD Board" what is the difference?
> 
> If there are any other Canadians out there who have bought one, what re seller did you use and how much was the duty and taxes? I read early on in this post that red-cap put on the slip $70 and under gift, is that something that is still done?
> 
> Thanks for the help


Don't go red-cap.

That being said, there is no customs or duty on these monitors. They are subject to GST/HST/PST, depending on your province. Items under $20 value, or gifts under $60 value are exempt from taxes. Needless to say, having your monitor declared as a gift of a $60 value is illegal.

Oddly enough, the very first Catleap I bought from green-sum was declared as a $100 gift without my requesting it; and I was not charged anything on it, not even taxes. Things are not likely to go that way anymore; you are almost guaranteed to be hit with the sales taxes.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrLeoMarvin*
> 
> Well after almost a year I'm pretty sure that the back light just said goodbye on my led-p.
> 
> When I put a flashlight to the monitor I can see the picture so it looks like it's dead to me.


Email your vendor. My 2720MDP that I bought last June died on me last month. The vendor (BigClothCraft) came thru and got me a replacement board (no cost and postage paid by them) and got me back up and running. Read my experience here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384775/warranty-experince-on-korean-monitors


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> This is pretty scary. I've had mine for about a month or so and it's been fantastic...but I was definitely hoping it would last a lot longer than a year. It makes me want to wait on buying a second one...


This is only my experience so YMMV. The replacement Backlight board that I just got is different than the one in the unit that died. it looks like one component was overheating and eventually died on the old board. The new board is of a different design so it looks like they have corrected the problem. It seems that the manufacturers have been upgrading internal components even for some of the models that's been around for a while. I have no problem picking up another Crossover as the build quality is pretty good. I'm actually eyeing some of the newer panel with 102% color gamut now.


----------



## kuruptx

I have had mine for 2 weeks now and my Cross Over Blade is fabulous finally found how to make the stand more sturdy when mounting the monitor down in it, no dead pixels, very very light bleed on top in dark areas, not hardly even enough to notice. Cross Over wins in my book!


----------



## geotabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Don't go red-cap.
> 
> That being said, there is no customs or duty on these monitors. They are subject to GST/HST/PST, depending on your province. Items under $20 value, or gifts under $60 value are exempt from taxes. Needless to say, having your monitor declared as a gift of a $60 value is illegal.
> 
> Oddly enough, the very first Catleap I bought from green-sum was declared as a $100 gift without my requesting it; and I was not charged anything on it, not even taxes. Things are not likely to go that way anymore; you are almost guaranteed to be hit with the sales taxes.


Have you had any experience with dream-seller? His pricing is far better than AW.

I'm still trying to find out what "This is By-Pass Model and doesn't have AD Board" what is the difference?

Thanks again


----------



## DrLeoMarvin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Email your vendor. My 2720MDP that I bought last June died on me last month. The vendor (BigClothCraft) came thru and got me a replacement board (no cost and postage paid by them) and got me back up and running. Read my experience here:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1384775/warranty-experince-on-korean-monitors


I'll make sure to contact him since I bought it from BigClothCraft too and got it last summer.


----------



## yarrh

I've been staring at my led-p for the past couple of months and the brightness is starting to take a toll on my eyes.

Even set at the lowest level, I feel like the appropriate viewing distance with regard to brightness is ~6ft, but obviously 27" is too small.

Can someone recommend software for dimming?


----------



## Koehler

Anyone have both the QNIX Samsung PLS monitors or this monitor?

Which one is the better buy?


----------



## PapaSmurf6768

If you want to overclock, you're probably going to want to go with the Qnix. If you're more into the build quality (and can pay the higher price) go with the Crossover 27Q.


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> This is only my experience so YMMV. The replacement Backlight board that I just got is different than the one in the unit that died. it looks like one component was overheating and eventually died on the old board. The new board is of a different design so it looks like they have corrected the problem. It seems that the manufacturers have been upgrading internal components even for some of the models that's been around for a while. I have no problem picking up another Crossover as the build quality is pretty good. I'm actually eyeing some of the newer panel with 102% color gamut now.


Oh right, this is the PCB issue I was reading about before I bought mine. I'm less worried since I have the newer one (and accesorieswhole is a fantastic seller thus far, so I have no doubt they will come through if something goes wrong). I just don't want it to be so far away from when I bought it that they decide they'll no longer provide support.


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geotabs*
> 
> Have you had any experience with dream-seller? His pricing is far better than AW.
> 
> I'm still trying to find out what "This is By-Pass Model and doesn't have AD Board" what is the difference?
> 
> Thanks again


Dream-seller seems to have pretty okay reviews for the most part, but the more recommended sellers in this thread are always going to be AW and bigclothcraft (mostly just AW).

I had the same dilemma a few weeks ago, but I just sucked it up and paid extra for AW. The service they provide is top notch, they'll overnight parts or replace things for you immediately if something goes wrong (which it sometimes does).

I'm not saying dream-seller won't do this (since I don't know for sure), and most who have bought from them have been happy. I just figured, if I'm spending this much anyways, a better guarantee of quality (better dead pixel policy) and support was probably worth the little extra. I had a very good experience communicating with AW as well, so I have no regrets at all with spending the extra money.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> Oh right, this is the PCB issue I was reading about before I bought mine. I'm less worried since I have the newer one (and accesorieswhole is a fantastic seller thus far, so I have no doubt they will come through if something goes wrong). I just don't want it to be so far away from when I bought it that they decide they'll no longer provide support.


They actually just mailed me a new PCB for my monitor.

I just have to figure out how to take apart my 27QD?

Anyone have a link to a site, thread or anything with pictures on how to take it apart?


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> I've been staring at my led-p for the past couple of months and the brightness is starting to take a toll on my eyes.
> 
> Even set at the lowest level, I feel like the appropriate viewing distance with regard to brightness is ~6ft, but obviously 27" is too small.
> 
> Can someone recommend software for dimming?


Give F.lux a try. I've used it before but haven't tried it yet with my Crossover for some unknown reason. I'm having issues with the brightness as well.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> Give F.lux a try. I've used it before but haven't tried it yet with my Crossover for some unknown reason. I'm having issues with the brightness as well.


Ive used flux as well but I found it more useful for only office work where its text on a majority of white since it only changes color temperature to something less harsh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> I've been staring at my led-p for the past couple of months and the brightness is starting to take a toll on my eyes.
> 
> Even set at the lowest level, I feel like the appropriate viewing distance with regard to brightness is ~6ft, but obviously 27" is too small.
> 
> Can someone recommend software for dimming?


If your not picky over color accuracy you can use nvidia's or AMD's built in color settings for the monitor. Turn down brightness to 0, turn down contrast to 0, and then boost gamma to maybe 1.50 or whatever looks best to you (using an Apple here so I have full control on back light but its calibrated same as my Crossovers were) and that should give you overall darker picture with inky blacks and of course a sacrificed peak white appearance. Try playing with them a bit to suit your needs.


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Ive used flux as well but I found it more useful for only office work where its text on a majority of white since it only changes color temperature to something less harsh.


Yeah, I was aware of that. The thing is, most of my trouble with the brightness has come with mostly text on a lot of white (especially at night, it's harsh on the eyes). That's why I suggested it. I'm going to go ahead and try your other option with my AMD settings to see if it works any better. Thanks.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> Yeah, I was aware of that. The thing is, most of my trouble with the brightness has come with mostly text on a lot of white (especially at night, it's harsh on the eyes). That's why I suggested it. I'm going to go ahead and try your other option with my AMD settings to see if it works any better. Thanks.


Aye understandable of course, I'd say my method takes it down 30-40% and temperatures and contrast aren't overly degraded for what it is, let me know how it works for you.


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Aye understandable of course, I'd say my method takes it down 30-40% and temperatures and contrast aren't overly degraded for what it is, let me know how it works for you.


When you say take brightness and contrast down to 0, do you mean their minimum? In AMD Catalyst, it seems as if "0" is the default, but it's like the midway point.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodo111*
> 
> When you say take brightness and contrast down to 0, do you mean their minimum? In AMD Catalyst, it seems as if "0" is the default, but it's like the midway point.


I'm using nVidia so 0 is minimum, yah take them down as low as they go which is probably -50 or -100 for AMD from what you say.


----------



## SICO94

Hi.

I just wanted to know if these monitors are really worth it and if I get one should I pay a little extra for a perfect pixel?

Also I have a Sapphire HD7970. Will it be able to run any game on max or ultra or will i have to scale it back a bit?

Any help would be great.


----------



## Pandasaurus

If anyone is still deciding on which seller to purchase a monitor from, I would go with AccessoriesWhole for 1 significant reason.
I bought mine from TA_Planet, and he is a bad seller. My monitor died after barely 5 months, and he ignores all my messages. I asked him if I could get a new PCB or even ship mine back to him, no answer.
AccessoriesWhole has been helping me A LOT! He is trying to find out what's wrong with my monitor AND I DIDN'T EVEN BUY FROM HIM!
Just my voicing my opinion to eager buyers.


----------



## DrLeoMarvin

After my post a couple days ago I have contacted bigclothcraft and he is working with me to get me a new back light board to fix the problem, and that's after I've owned the monitor for 9 months. I definitely recommend him from my experience so far.

I also wouldn't personally go with a pixel perfect version because the only way you would even notice is if you have a large clump of dead pixels. If it's only one you have to put your face right up to the screen to even see it, and when playing games or movies with more colors it will be even harder to see.


----------



## rodo111

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SICO94*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I just wanted to know if these monitors are really worth it and if I get one should I pay a little extra for a perfect pixel?
> 
> Also I have a Sapphire HD7970. Will it be able to run any game on max or ultra or will i have to scale it back a bit?
> 
> Any help would be great.


Pixel perfect according to most in here is not worth it. First of all, if you buy from a reliable seller (#1 recommended is accesorieswhole, also bigclothcraft is supposedly good), you'll likely get a very good panel (most likely perfect or very close to it so that it's completely unnoticeable). If it's not, they will replace it, send replacement parts, and take care of you for free. It's relatively low risk.

I've had mine for a few weeks and I'd say it was worth it. There are some cheap options now worth looking into with Qnix and their Samsung PLS panels (~$300), but the crossover is definitely near the higher end. I paid extra for the nice stand and pivoting features, but if you plan to get a VESA mount of some kind that is sturdy, you might feel it's more worth it to get a cheaper panel (Shimian or QNIX, not sure if Catleap is much cheaper).

Basically, I feel good about it because of the service and high quality product, but it's worth looking around.


----------



## snakePT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SICO94*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I just wanted to know if these monitors are really worth it and if I get one should I pay a little extra for a perfect pixel?
> 
> Also I have a Sapphire HD7970. Will it be able to run any game on max or ultra or will i have to scale it back a bit?
> 
> Any help would be great.


I have a 7970 as well, and I can run Tomb Raider maxed out and BF3 maxed out, except I have to turn off AA. But then again, you don't really need it then


----------



## gorman70

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorman70*
> 
> Hi everyone! Thanks for all the info that helped me in choosing my monitor.
> 
> I received this product: 27" Crossover 2730MD and the resolution is awesome, as well as the picture quality.
> 
> Unfortunately, it "glitches". It's like there's an intermittent and random glitch that goes across the whole screen in "bands" that either flash, or show "random colors", or a black horizontal line surrounded by "random colored noise". Stuff like that, it lasts a fraction of a second, but it's rather frequent. Several times a minute.
> 
> I'm sorry if I can't explain it properly. Here's some pictures of the kind of glitches I see. These are video frames stills from a video done with an iPhone. It would be impossible to catch these on a photograph, as they really last an istant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought it from bigclothcraft, one of the suggested retailers in the thread.
> 
> Now, since it's doing this both on a DVI connection and on a RGB (PC) one, I think the problem does not lie with the cable used. My hope is that it might be the power brick. Otherwise... what are my options? Is this a known problem?
> 
> Thanks in advance to anyone kind enough to help.
> 
> Additional info:
> I've been using it with two different PCs, one connected through VGA, the other one through DVI-D. I've tried with both connections attached (the monitor offers the choice to select the input to use) or just one. I've tried even low resolutions (720p for instance)... to no avail. One PC has a 512MB Nvidia 8800 GT videocard, the other an onboard ATI HD 4200. Both machines are for work use, so the low video RAM is something I'm aware of. But it definitely shouldn't be a problem for 2D regular desktop use.


Just wanted to give a final update. Opened a claim on PayPal, he answered once stating that the monitor had been shipped by mistake from the factory (?!?). Then he disappeared. PayPal gave him ten days to reply. Silence. PayPal closed the claim and gave me back my money. I lost the custom money, unfortunately. But... well, could have been worse.


----------



## SICO94

Pretty sure I am about to order a crossover from accesorieswhole(seems like the best choice)
but I just wanted to know if the crossover can go lower than it's native resolution?
Also should I buy a multi-input one or stick with a single input due to decreased input lag?


----------



## Pure2sin

Has anyone taken apart the plastic backed version of the Crossover monitors?

I just got my replacement PCB today and don't want to break anything.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> Has anyone taken apart the plastic backed version of the Crossover monitors?
> 
> I just got my replacement PCB today and don't want to break anything.


I have a 2720MDP so it might be different. I took off the 4 screws holding the panel to the stand. Then there are 4 more screws on the bottom in the back that I removed. After all that. The front and back was still held tightly together. I have to use a wide blade screw driver along the gap to open it a bit and then stick in a wider piece of hard plastic and twist. then I get a small pop and the closest attachment pins opened up. then I move to the next tight spot and do the same going completely around the unit. Once you have loosen all the attachment point (6-7 along the long edge and 4-5 along the short edge) then you can remove the front. The LCD panel is attached to the back half at 4 places (2 on each side). Just pull on the edge and lift that side of the panel up, repeat on other side and now the panel is loose. lift the panel slowly and detach the 2 cable that's connected to it, then you can remove it completely. You will then see all the cables comes from a portion that's covered by a piece of sheet metal. Remove the screws and lift it off, you should then see all the PCBs.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> I have a 2720MDP so it might be different. I took off the 4 screws holding the panel to the stand. Then there are 4 more screws on the bottom in the back that I removed. After all that. The front and back was still held tightly together. I have to use a wide blade screw driver along the gap to open it a bit and then stick in a wider piece of hard plastic and twist. then I get a small pop and the closest attachment pins opened up. then I move to the next tight spot and do the same going completely around the unit. Once you have loosen all the attachment point (6-7 along the long edge and 4-5 along the short edge) then you can remove the front. The LCD panel is attached to the back half at 4 places (2 on each side). Just pull on the edge and lift that side of the panel up, repeat on other side and now the panel is loose. lift the panel slowly and detach the 2 cable that's connected to it, then you can remove it completely. You will then see all the cables comes from a portion that's covered by a piece of sheet metal. Remove the screws and lift it off, you should then see all the PCBs.


I ended up figuring it out after scratching my head a little but.

Something weird I did find was that I had a screw missing on the inside of my monitor. It is one of the screws that I assume holds down the cover to the inverter? It is the board at the top of the monitor.

I already e-mailed the seller about it so we will see what they say. I am kinda pissed about it.

When I see stuff like that it makes me wonder what else could go wrong.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

I recieved my monitor today from allkillsale There are some problems. Is this normal backlight bleed and how many stuck pixels is that?


http://imgur.com/irGD6


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> I recieved my monitor today from allkillsale There are some problems. Is this normal backlight bleed and how many stuck pixels is that?
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/irGD6


Stuck pixel, find a soft cloth and damp it with water. Try to rub it with the cloth with your finger nail gently. If you can't fix it. Maybe ask for replacement.


----------



## Voidman

Purchased a pixel perfect 27QD blade from dream-seller. Box arrived beat to hell, with an actual hole in the side of it. But once I opened it I saw that the monitor itself was undamaged and perfectly fine. No dead or stuck pixels, no back light bleed (though black levels in general are pretty horrid) and no hum or whine. At first I was underwhelmed when I was just looking at the desktop and web browser, but once I fired up some games and played some videos I understood what everyone has been raving about. The only thing I don't like is the stand. I'll try playing with it again to see if I can make it more stable, but right now its way too wobbly. If I end up getting an Ergotron or something like that, can I remove that clear plastic stem part that goes into the stand? If so, how do you get it off the back of the monitor?


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voidman*
> 
> Purchased a pixel perfect 27QD blade from dream-seller. Box arrived beat to hell, with an actual hole in the side of it. But once I opened it I saw that the monitor itself was undamaged and perfectly fine. No dead or stuck pixels, no back light bleed (though black levels in general are pretty horrid) and no hum or whine. At first I was underwhelmed when I was just looking at the desktop and web browser, but once I fired up some games and played some videos I understood what everyone has been raving about. The only thing I don't like is the stand. I'll try playing with it again to see if I can make it more stable, but right now its way too wobbly. If I end up getting an Ergotron or something like that, can I remove that clear plastic stem part that goes into the stand? If so, how do you get it off the back of the monitor?


You can buy the better pivot stand on Ebay right now for $89.99. There are other Vesa stand though for cheaper.

To remove that clear plastic stem you have to take apart the monitor.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Stuck pixel, find a soft cloth and damp it with water. Try to rub it with the cloth with your finger nail gently. If you can't fix it. Maybe ask for replacement.


Tried it to no avail, They seem dead with no light coming off of them.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Does anyone have a link to download a huge package of 2560x1440p images I have found lots of 1080p ones but no 1440p large packages.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feild Scarecrow*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to download a huge package of 2560x1440p images I have found lots of 1080p ones but no 1440p large packages.


Wallbase(.)cc is your friend if you're browsing for wallpapers


----------



## SICO94

Pretty sure I am about to order a crossover from accesorieswhole(seems like the best choice)
but I just wanted to know if the crossover can go lower than it's native resolution?
Also should I buy a multi-input one or stick with a single input due to decreased input lag?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SICO94*
> 
> Pretty sure I am about to order a crossover from accesorieswhole(seems like the best choice)
> but I just wanted to know if the crossover can go lower than it's native resolution?
> Also should I buy a multi-input one or stick with a single input due to decreased input lag?


If you mean play at different resolutions other than 2560x1440? The answer is yes on a PC, I'm not enitrely sure about consoles however but I'm tempted to lean towards a yes as well.

You're not going to notice multi vs single input as much as people say in reality, buy the model that looks best to you.


----------



## SICO94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> If you mean play at different resolutions other than 2560x1440? The answer is yes on a PC, I'm not enitrely sure about consoles however but I'm tempted to lean towards a yes as well.
> 
> You're not going to notice multi vs single input as much as people say in reality, buy the model that looks best to you.


Thanks.
Will almost exclusively be used for PC gaming
I just wanted to know if lowering the resolution was possible in case I
wanted to play Metro or something as demanding.

Graphics card is a 3gb Sapphire HD 7970 GHz

*EDIT:-*How do you lower the resolution?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SICO94*
> 
> Thanks.
> Will almost exclusively be used for PC gaming
> I just wanted to know if lowering the resolution was possible in case I
> wanted to play Metro or something as demanding.
> 
> Graphics card is a 3gb Sapphire HD 7970 GHz
> 
> *EDIT:-*How do you lower the resolution?


You'd use the in game settings for changing the resolution while gaming and leave the native/desktop resolution unchanged.

I changed from 1440p to 1080p in Tomb Raider to check how it looked and it's not that terrible of degradation, should be fine in quite a few titles.


----------



## SICO94

Tank you that helps because as far as I know the Crossover only has 3 buttons


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SICO94*
> 
> Tank you that helps because as far as I know the Crossover only has 3 buttons


Np however resolution is primarily set within windows or whatever OS you're using and not on the monitor physically so you're all set to go


----------



## Doomtomb

Should I get a 27Q or 27QD?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doomtomb*
> 
> Should I get a 27Q or 27QD?


27Q wins hands down for me because of the metal bezel and more squared appearance, the glossy plastic bezel and stand design of the 27QD has me thinking of entry level 32 inch TVs from 2009 but that's me and it depends on what you need since the QD has speakers in it but I doubt you'd be needing them judging by your sig rig.


----------



## Doomtomb

Thanks. Yea, I won't be needing the speakers or the OSD, just the screen brightness adjust. And I would much prefer the metal frame over plastic.


----------



## Feild Scarecrow

Okay I really would like some help please my crossover terrible light bleed


http://imgur.com/irGD6



Does anyone have a way to fix it or should I send it back, also 7 or 8 dead pixels in the bottom corner. Has anyone had to send a monitor back? Should the seller pay for the return shipping?


----------



## DaneGuy

Just got my 27Q from AW. It's perfect!!


----------



## SICO94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaneGuy*
> 
> Just got my 27Q from AW. It's perfect!!


Did you get the perfect pixel one?
What is the picture quality/color like?
I'm about to get one from him as well


----------



## DaneGuy

I got the pixel perfect. I probably would have been just fine without it though. The PQ is the best I've ever had and I usually get some nice monitors (always matte finish though).


----------



## FireBean

Well, my 27Q's LED Driver board just bit the dust. There is one mosfet that has obviously overheated. Does anyone know if this ends up damaging the LCD Driver board as well? I tested my power brick and it was outputting 29v.

Also talked to DreamSeller and to warranty it, I would have to ship the screen back to them in KOREA! Or I can just order the replacement board for $30. I was thinking of just hitting up mouser and trying to solder a new mostfet back on. and slap a heatsink on it!


----------



## DaneGuy

That sucks. How long did you have it?


----------



## Remix65

you guys with these warranty-less monitors should set your monitors to shut off display after 5 minutes of inactivity. i do for mine even though they have warranties. it'd really suck for any of my monitors to go kaput.


----------



## FireBean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> you guys with these warranty-less monitors should set your monitors to shut off display after 5 minutes of inactivity. i do for mine even though they have warranties. it'd really suck for any of my monitors to go kaput.


It does have a warranty, but in order for warranty repair to take place, I have to ship the whole freaking monitor back!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaneGuy*
> 
> That sucks. How long did you have it?


Just under a year. Great monitor though! I'm sure that the MOSFET going out is what killed my PSU as well.

I'm trying to get a hold of Accessory-whole for a replacement. I kind of don't want to do business with Dream-Seller since they are making me ship back the monitor for complete repair or I can buy a replacement for $90! But AW has not replied to my inquiry yet.


----------



## Remix65

i wouldn't buy those monitors thinking they have warranties.


----------



## DaneGuy

What do most people say about backlight bleed on these? I see a little bit in the lower corner of mine.


----------



## FireBean

I have the same little bit in the lower left corner of mine as well...


----------



## Klouczech

I just wanted to buy Crossover but
when I red this thread about Qnix, which is cheaper and can be OCd to 120Hz, I think that Qnix is better (not because of the stand and look). What is your opinion?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remix65*
> 
> i wouldn't buy those monitors thinking they have warranties.


they have warranties depending on the seller(AW is 1 year), and you can buy square trade and get your money back for a replacement because they won't even bother repairing it....so inform yourself first before injecting your opinion


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I just wanted to buy Crossover but
> when I red this thread about Qnix, which is cheaper and can be OCd to 120Hz, I think that Qnix is better (not because of the stand and look). What is your opinion?


I dont believe any monitor besides the Catleap 2B monitors can be overclocked. Although the newest Overlord monitor will also be able to be overclocked.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> I dont believe any monitor besides the Catleap 2B monitors can be overclocked. Although the newest Overlord monitor will also be able to be overclocked.


The OC series of overlord can be overclocked. Same thing as the 2B's, results vary and you have to OC with custom settings on graphics card. (unlike "real 120hz monitors).


----------



## Corduroy

My 2 cents:

I finally got mine last week. Bought from AW, pixel perfect. It took 4 business days to arrive.

I think it was pretty expensive purchase. I had to pay custom taxes (about 26% of the declared value, which was understated in the box.. lucky me) plus a FedEX fee which was about the same 26%. Total paid: 665 USD. Despite that, I still think it was a great deal since similar monitors costs 1000-1200 USD around here (Chile).

Screen is great. No dead/stuck pixels. Little bleeding.

Came with a power brick, but the plug didn't fit well with our standards: the one included was a thicker than my wall socket. But that was easy to fix/change.

If needed, I'll post some pictures tonight.


----------



## DivideByZer0

I just received a Crossover 27Q and it was working great, until I tried turning it off and on again. The screen starts off with a bunch of vertical lines, which blink down the screen in 10-30 seconds, until the screen is just black and flickering.







This happens if I turn the monitor off and on again, if I restart my computer, or if my computer goes into sleep mode and resumes, every single time. The only way for me to get it to work properly is to leave the power brick unplugged for 10-20 minutes, and then plug it back in again.

I've tried a different DVI cable, and also my friend's GPU (with the monitor plugged into a UPS) and that didn't help anything. It looks like replacing the power brick, or the internal board might be the issue, and I'd rather do that than have to worry about shipping it back. I couldn't find any info on this problem on this site or on the Internet, except for a post earlier in this thread which the user didn't follow up on. Does anyone have any familiarity with this issue and what the cause might be? Any help is greatly appreciated!

*EDIT:*

Note that picking up a new PCB board (the one that you can see through the slots in the back of the monitor did NOT fix this issue. I had to pay return shipping to send back to the poor, incommunicative, and borderline scammer ebay seller ASTROBILE also known as LIGHTNSPACE, which cost me $140 via USPS. Bought a new one from ta_planet with no issues!


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I just wanted to buy Crossover but
> when I red this thread about Qnix, which is cheaper and can be OCd to 120Hz, I think that Qnix is better (not because of the stand and look). What is your opinion?


Go for the QNIX if you want to be guaranteed 120Hz.


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Go for the QNIX if you want to be guaranteed 120Hz.


Of course, but 120Hz is not guaranteed...


----------



## Klouczech

Double post, sry...


----------



## Noobhammer

Love my glass 27Q.
5 months going strong. Zero issues.
My brother bought the exact same one. (same model/seller) Also zero issues.

Seller: TA_PLANET

Ditched the stand in a matter of days though. It wasn't terrible though not up to the quality of the rest of the monitor.
Replaced with an Ergotron MX.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Of course, but 120Hz is not guaranteed...


I would say 90% guaranteed that you'll get an overclock of at least 90 to 100Hz.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I would say 90% guaranteed that you'll get an overclock of at least 90 to 100Hz.


96Hz is what overlord guarantees, so that's probably a safe minimum. I think the worst I've seen still went over 100 though.

Mine does ~110hz. Close enough.


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Go for the QNIX if you want to be guaranteed 120Hz.


What Qnix monitor does 120Hz?


----------



## Dabb

I bought my monitor in June 2012 so I've had my monitor for close to 11 months now.

In the last few months, I noticed there was some flickering upon startup, but it was very faint so I thought maybe I just never noticed it and continued to ignore it.

However, the last few days it looked like the monitor was flickering more but I thought it was my eyes as I was spending more time on the PC so I ignored it until last night. It started just "turning the image off" yesterday night - i.e. the power on the monitor was still on, and it was still blue, meaning it was receiving a signal but there would be no image. If I turn off the monitor by the power button and turn it back on, it appears to work for a little while (can be anything from a minute to an hour) before the process restarts. I've noticed it does indeed flicker now.

I bought my monitor from BCC, is there anything I can do about this? If not, is it a simple fix for a person that's ok with electronics?

Thanks!


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> I bought my monitor in June 2012 so I've had my monitor for close to 11 months now.
> 
> In the last few months, I noticed there was some flickering upon startup, but it was very faint so I thought maybe I just never noticed it and continued to ignore it.
> 
> However, the last few days it looked like the monitor was flickering more but I thought it was my eyes as I was spending more time on the PC so I ignored it until last night. It started just "turning the image off" yesterday night - i.e. the power on the monitor was still on, and it was still blue, meaning it was receiving a signal but there would be no image. If I turn off the monitor by the power button and turn it back on, it appears to work for a little while (can be anything from a minute to an hour) before the process restarts. I've noticed it does indeed flicker now.
> 
> I bought my monitor from BCC, is there anything I can do about this? If not, is it a simple fix for a person that's ok with electronics?
> 
> Thanks!


There's always been a problem with one of the capacitors on the back light PCB over heating. This is what is causing your flickering problem. Pretty soon your back light will probably stop working altogether.

If you ask BCC they may ship you one, I've heard they're relatively easy to replace. They've usually sent the component for free if people have had problems shortly after purchase, I'm not sure if they'll send you one for free after 11 months though.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> There's always been a problem with one of the capacitors on the back light PCB over heating. This is what is causing your flickering problem. Pretty soon your back light will probably stop working altogether.
> 
> If you ask BCC they may ship you one, I've heard they're relatively easy to replace. They've usually sent the component for free if people have had problems shortly after purchase, I'm not sure if they'll send you one for free after 11 months though.


Thanks for the speedy reply. I have to admit I've stopped following this thread so I'm unsure how this exactly works. Does that mean there's a separate PCB that I can simply unplug the cables from and then replace, fixing the problem?

Search isn't proving as useful as I'd like it to be









EDIT: Just tried searching again and I found similar problems to what I was having, will continue researching.

EDIT2: Seems replacing the PCB is quite a simple fix, will email BCC and see what he says and call PayPal to see what they say too just incase BCC aren't playing friendly.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Thanks for the speedy reply. I have to admit I've stopped following this thread so I'm unsure how this exactly works. Does that mean there's a separate PCB that I can simply unplug the cables from and then replace, fixing the problem?
> 
> Search isn't proving as useful as I'd like it to be


I'm not exactly sure how this daughter board is connected to the main board, but I imagine it's not soldered or anything that's a complete hassle because most people who have reported a successful fix didn't complain about the task being difficult.

I haven't followed the thread in about 6 months either, so my information is 6 months old.









It sounds like it was as simple as requesting this daughter board (my guess is it's a voltage regulator for the back light) and then installing it. If you take the back panel of your monitor off, you should be able to see the board, it's the smaller of the two, you can then assess what you would need to do it in order to remove and replace it.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> I'm not exactly sure how this daughter board is connected to the main board, but I imagine it's not soldered or anything that's a complete hassle because most people who have reported a successful fix didn't complain about the task being difficult.
> 
> I haven't followed the thread in about 6 months either, so my information is 6 months old.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds like it was as simple as requesting this daughter board (my guess is it's a voltage regulator for the back light) and then installing it. If you take the back panel of your monitor off, you should be able to see the board, it's the smaller of the two, you can then assess what you would need to do it in order to remove and replace it.


Yep, it seems to be a small daughter board which you simply screw in and plug the cables into.

Once again, thanks for your help!


----------



## IcedEarth

No problem.

Their English isn't very good at BCC and as far as I know there are two versions of the board (one has a green PCB and one has a blue PCB), I'm not sure if they're cross compatible or not.

I'd advise taking a photo, and putting a red circle around the PCB and an arrow with text saying 'I would like a replacement for this.' Better to be safe than sorry.

Let us know how you get on, I'd be interested to know for future reference in case I ever need to do the same thing.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> What Qnix monitor does 120Hz?


Almost all of them based on reports in the PLS threads. Some have done 144 (haven't personally tried above 120 yet) Some have scan lines at 120, others like me have settled at 96Hz mainly due to lack of GPU power.

Any doubts still that they truly overclock to this degree must be just sour grapes. It has been verified a few ways that there is no frame skipping or what have you.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> No problem.
> 
> Their English isn't very good at BCC and as far as I know there are two versions of the board (one has a green PCB and one has a blue PCB), I'm not sure if they're cross compatible or not.
> 
> I'd advise taking a photo, and putting a red circle around the PCB and an arrow with text saying 'I would like a replacement for this.' Better to be safe than sorry.
> 
> Let us know how you get on, I'd be interested to know for future reference in case I ever need to do the same thing.


Yep, I've tried to explain things more simply just to save time for both parties. I'm wondering whether I should just sell this monitor for slightly cheap and pick up a Dell U2713HM. Then again, I've heard of some bad experiences with it too so I'm not sure I'd want to go with it. Hopefully my monitor will just limp along until I can fix it - would be rather annoyed if it died before so as it's my only monitor.

I'll open the monitor if they ask me to, otherwise I'll leave it as it is for now.

Will definitely report back!


----------



## Pure2sin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Almost all of them based on reports in the PLS threads. Some have done 144 (haven't personally tried above 120 yet) Some have scan lines at 120, others like me have settled at 96Hz mainly due to lack of GPU power.
> 
> Any doubts still that they truly overclock to this degree must be just sour grapes. It has been verified a few ways that there is no frame skipping or what have you.


Interesting.

I was under the impression that the PLS panels only came in matte but looks like they have glossy also.


----------



## wrigleyvillain

Yeah. The matte is a really nice semi-gloss one though. I have yet to hear anyone who got a matte say "wish I got a glossy" but a few the other way around.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pure2sin*
> 
> What Qnix monitor does 120Hz?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star

http://www.overclock.net/t/1374065/korean-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ll-27-2560x1440-matte-samsung-pls-panel


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Yep, I've tried to explain things more simply just to save time for both parties. I'm wondering whether I should just sell this monitor for slightly cheap and pick up a Dell U2713HM. Then again, I've heard of some bad experiences with it too so I'm not sure I'd want to go with it. Hopefully my monitor will just limp along until I can fix it - would be rather annoyed if it died before so as it's my only monitor.
> 
> I'll open the monitor if they ask me to, otherwise I'll leave it as it is for now.
> 
> Will definitely report back!


Sigh, BCC aren't even replying to me.







Technically it's evening there now, meaning they had yesterday and today to reply so it's pretty much been 48 hours business time unless there's a holiday going on in South Korea?

I'll give it one more day just in case they're busy or something.

EDIT: Received a reply from BCC now







Need to upload the video I recorded then I can reply to him.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrigleyvillain*
> 
> Yeah. The matte is a really nice semi-gloss one though. I have yet to hear anyone who got a matte say "wish I got a glossy" but a few the other way around.


I guess I will go with the matte Samsung PLS 120Hz then.


----------



## knanda

Which of these is better for using with hdmi 2720mdp or 2730mdp???What is the difference between the two?


----------



## knanda

Is 27Q-p is the best model among the ones without the hdmi input?? I am confused with the various models available.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Is 27Q-p is the best model among the ones without the hdmi input?? I am confused with the various models available.


The CrossOver 27Q LED-P does not have HDMI, whereas the 2720MDP has HDMI inputs.

The CrossOver 27Q LED-P has a better design.


----------



## Dabb

Does anyone know if the flickering and screen going black can occur either on a cold boot? I noticed that it can still happen even if I leave my computer off for the whole night and then I wake up and not long later (a minute or two) it goes black already. From what I understand, it shouldn't be able to "overheat" that quickly should it?

Oddly enough, I've actually been running the monitor for around 48h without any problems now apart from some flickering. The screen hasn't gone black these last two days.


----------



## MrCgNerd

Hallo, Does anyone have CrossOver 27Q with MATTE screen ? And is good, not blurry ?
I am choosing from these two:
*CrossOver 27Q [matte]*
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Matte-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-27-Monitor-QHD-S-IPS-/221224172037?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3381fcfa05
*QNIX QX2710 PLS [matte]*
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Up-to-2Dead-Pixels-New-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/251271982638?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a80fa2e2e

What do you recommend ?


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q LED-P does not have HDMI, whereas the 2720MDP has HDMI inputs.
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q LED-P has a better design.


Thanks for the information. Its clear now.


----------



## SICO94

I am close to buying a Crossover 27Q LED-P from AccessoriesWhole for about 320Euro with free delivery.
However I have been hearing recently that both customs and FedEx can charge a huge amount, ramping up the price.

I am really not willing to pay more than this so my question is how likely is this to happen to me?

P.S. I am getting it delivered to Ireland


----------



## tyler24

Ask him to use exclusively EMS, declare a US$ 60,00 value and item description as not working monitor for parts only.I had mine in a week paid no taxes
or ""any"" other fees.


----------



## SICO94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tyler24*
> 
> Ask him to use exclusively EMS, declare a US$ 60,00 value and item description as not working monitor for parts only.I had mine in a week paid no taxes
> or ""any"" other fees.


Cool. Will do.
What do you mean by EMS though?
Also do you mean to say that the product should be marked as only saying it's worth $60?


----------



## adgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SICO94*
> 
> Cool. Will do.
> What do you mean by EMS though?
> Also do you mean to say that the product should be marked as only saying it's worth $60?


I did bought mine from AW and the lowest he could undervalue the package was 201.66$
I got 40$ duty on mine (Canada, fedex)


----------



## SICO94

Ok, will try this.


----------



## tyler24

EMS=EXPRESS MAIL SERVICE ,is the same as FedEx, UPS, .. etc (they do have a tracking number as well) except they do not apply any fees no mutter what your country is.
Declare the item as spare parts he/she is able to undervalue far enough.
Bought mine from BCC last Oct with no troubles and very fast


----------



## daman246

planning on ordering one soon, is this better than the Shimian?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrCgNerd*
> 
> Hallo, Does anyone have CrossOver 27Q with MATTE screen ? And is good, not blurry ?
> I am choosing from these two:
> *CrossOver 27Q [matte]*
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Matte-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-27-Monitor-QHD-S-IPS-/221224172037?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3381fcfa05
> *QNIX QX2710 PLS [matte]*
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Up-to-2Dead-Pixels-New-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/251271982638?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a80fa2e2e
> 
> What do you recommend ?


Depends which display you like better.

Both are great.

The build quality of the CrossOver 27Q is better.


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrCgNerd*
> 
> Hallo, Does anyone have CrossOver 27Q with MATTE screen ? And is good, not blurry ?
> I am choosing from these two:
> *CrossOver 27Q [matte]*
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Matte-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-2560x1440-27-Monitor-QHD-S-IPS-/221224172037?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3381fcfa05
> *QNIX QX2710 PLS [matte]*
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Up-to-2Dead-Pixels-New-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PLS-Monitor-/251271982638?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3a80fa2e2e
> 
> What do you recommend ?


If you want 80-120hz, go Qnix, otherwise the Crossover.


----------



## Koehler

The CrossOver 27Q LED is a brighter display at 420 cd/m^2.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q LED is a brighter display at 420 cd/m^2.


very, very very few people ever use monitors at 420 CD/m2. That would be three and a half times brighter than what you would want in a bright office setting.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> very, very very few people ever use monitors at 420 CD/m2. That would be three and a half times brighter than what you would want in a bright office setting.


Then what brightness do most people set their monitors at?


----------



## kabes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Then what brightness do most people set their monitors at?


Since I use mine in a dark room, I have it calibrated to 120 cd/m2. You want 160ish for moderate light and 180-200 for office lighting.

My 27qd has been running great since February.


----------



## adgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q LED is a brighter display at 420 cd/m^2.


I received mine, 27Q led-p, and it was saying 420cd/m2 on internet, but the box only say 380.
I think its 10bit panel that goes to 420cd/m2


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adgame*
> 
> I received mine, 27Q led-p, and it was saying 420cd/m2 on internet, but the box only say 380.
> I think its 10bit panel that goes to 420cd/m2


Regardless of the figures, it's exceedingly bright when turned up full.

I can't have it on full for casual use, every time I go on Google and Facebook it just burns my retinas. I usually have it on the lowest setting for casual use and the highest setting for gaming.


----------



## FireBean

Damn it! I just got my "replacement" LED Driver from AW today. It seems to be an All in one type of board that will not mount to my 27Q Chassis.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabes*
> 
> Since I use mine in a dark room, I have it calibrated to 120 cd/m2. You want 160ish for moderate light and 180-200 for office lighting.
> 
> My 27qd has been running great since February.


I see. So really a 300 cd/m^2 monitor is not much different from a 420 cd/m^2 monitor since you won't be reaching 420 cd/m^2 in most cases anyway.


----------



## knanda

I am getting a crossover monitor today and was unable to decide which of these two is better 2720Md-P or 2730MD-P?? want to use monitor with my PC and PS3 hence getting a multi input monitor..


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Does anyone know if the flickering and screen going black can occur either on a cold boot? I noticed that it can still happen even if I leave my computer off for the whole night and then I wake up and not long later (a minute or two) it goes black already. From what I understand, it shouldn't be able to "overheat" that quickly should it?
> 
> Oddly enough, I've actually been running the monitor for around 48h without any problems now apart from some flickering. The screen hasn't gone black these last two days.


Sounds like the mosfet on the LED driver board is starting to fail. Have you replaced the board with the new rev? If the LED driver board is blue pcb and REV 00 by digitalwave I would contact the dealer and ask for the new rev board. (green pcb) I had to replace mine about 4 months ago. My crossover only lasted about 3 months and the mosfet burnt up. I walked away from my computer for a few hours, came back and not backlight at all. Opened it up to repair it and found the mosfet on the LED driver board had failed. They are great LG IPS panels but the Kordis Kit (video board/LED driver) are cheap Korean made.


----------



## knanda

Hi guys .Searched the thread and there were not much reviews on the 2730MD-p model. Can anyone confirm of this is a good model to buy or just get the 27Q-P model(without HDMI) as its being bought widely and has less issues. I am thinking of hooking up my laptop/console to this monitor. Please let me know guys. I have to order one today..


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Hi guys .Searched the thread and there were not much reviews on the 2730MD-p model. Can anyone confirm of this is a good model to buy or just get the 27Q-P model(without HDMI) as its being bought widely and has less issues. I am thinking of hooking up my laptop/console to this monitor. Please let me know guys. I have to order one today..


It's really good aside from the build quality/stand. Use google or chrome to translate

http://www.overclockers.ru/lab/53817/Yablochnye_fantazii._Obzor_i_testirovanie_monitora_Crossover_2730MD_LED.html


----------



## knanda

Ordered 2730MD-P model from accesorieswhole. Its amazing that he shipped the monitor within 2hrs after I placed the order.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Ordered 2730MD-P model from accesorieswhole. Its amazing that he shipped the monitor within 2hrs after I placed the order.


Don't be so sure.

My personal experience and that of others is that they mark it as shipped but don't actually ship it. They marked mine as shipped almost immediately, when they finally sent my tracking number the pick-up date from their warehouse was 3 days later.

They probably classify it as 'shipped' when they order a courier...not when the courier picks it ups.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Ordered 2730MD-P model from accesorieswhole. Its amazing that he shipped the monitor within 2hrs after I placed the order.


What's they difference between the CrossOver 2720MD-P and 2730MD-P?


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> What's they difference between the CrossOver 2720MD-P and 2730MD-P?


The only difference I know is that 2730Md-p doesn't have a Display port,component input and spdif-out compared to 2720MD-p.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Don't be so sure.
> 
> My personal experience and that of others is that they mark it as shipped but don't actually ship it. They marked mine as shipped almost immediately, when they finally sent my tracking number the pick-up date from their warehouse was 3 days later.
> 
> They probably classify it as 'shipped' when they order a courier...not when the courier picks it ups.


I just checked the tracking information and it seems that item is actually shipped.. It shows a lot of activity between various Fedex locations in S.Korea.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> The only difference I know is that 2730Md-p doesn't have a Display port,component input and spdif-out compared to 2720MD-p.
> I just checked the tracking information and it seems that item is actually shipped.. It shows a lot of activity between various Fedex locations in S.Korea.


What do component input and spdif-out do?


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> What do component input and spdif-out do?


Using component input you can connect your devices with the analog cable(Red,blue,green,yellow etc connections). I am not sure about the Spdif-out,but I think it is used for Digital audio output.


----------



## Kiracubed

When buying a 27QD LED Blade from accessories whole, do I need a transformer to power this thing? Or is the plug included compliant with USA outlets, and no step up/step down transformer is needed?


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiracubed*
> 
> When buying a 27QD LED Blade from accessories whole, do I need a transformer to power this thing? Or is the plug included compliant with USA outlets, and no step up/step down transformer is needed?


They all come shipped with a power brick and a plug for your country.

The plug is VERY cheap though. When my monitor first arrived it kept turning on and off, I thought it was faulty but then I swapped out the cheap plug with a standard PSU kettle lead and it worked perfectly. I suggest you do this if you have a spare kettle lead lying around.


----------



## knanda

Received the monitor today.








Everything looks good except there is just one dead/struck(not sure) pixel on the left side corner location. I posted the image so if someone could tell if its a dead/struck pixel it will be helpful.

This pixel shows up only on white/green background.. It is not visible on black/red backgrounds(not sure if this is relevant)

IMAG0211.jpg 4283k .jpg file


----------



## IcedEarth

Yeah that looks like a dead pixel (more than one actually, it looks like a group) but I can't tell because I'm not sure how zoomed in the picture is.

Some pixels get stuck in a certain colour, this is why they don't show up in certain spectrums. That looks to be a red pixel(s) that is stuck.

How noticeable is it during normal use and also during gaming?

I have a single dead pixel (black) in the upper left quadrant of my display but even on a white background it is very, very hard to detect unless you intentionally look for it. Depending on how noticeable it is, depends on what you should do. It's a pain to send it back though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I just checked the tracking information and it seems that item is actually shipped.. It shows a lot of activity between various Fedex locations in S.Korea.


Glad to hear it.









I guess it depends when their couriers come to collect the monitors. I ordered mine on a Thursday night, it didn't get physically shipped until the next Tuesday, it was here for the Thursday. It took exactly one week to arrive (including non-working days) from S. Korea, so it wasn't a complaint on my behalf, I was extremely happy with the delivery time. I'd have been even happier if it had come quicker but maybe it's due to me ordering at the back end of the week.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Received the monitor today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything looks good except there is just one dead/struck(not sure) pixel on the left side corner location. I posted the image so if someone could tell if its a dead/struck pixel it will be helpful.
> 
> This pixel shows up only on white/green background.. It is not visible on black/red backgrounds(not sure if this is relevant)
> 
> IMAG0211.jpg 4283k .jpg file


Looks like a dead green subpixel.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kiracubed*
> 
> When buying a 27QD LED Blade from accessories whole, do I need a transformer to power this thing? Or is the plug included compliant with USA outlets, and no step up/step down transformer is needed?


You mean power supply. They will supply a 120Vac in, 24Vdc out external power supply. They will give you a f/m plug adapter, but I just used a standard ac power supply cord same as what your computer uses to receive 120Vac.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Received the monitor today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything looks good except there is just one dead/struck(not sure) pixel on the left side corner location. I posted the image so if someone could tell if its a dead/struck pixel it will be helpful.
> 
> This pixel shows up only on white/green background.. It is not visible on black/red backgrounds(not sure if this is relevant)
> 
> IMAG0211.jpg 4283k .jpg file


Looks more like a hot/stuck pixel than a dead pixel.

Dead pixels appear completely black.


----------



## knanda

Is there a way to get rid of this struck pixel?? I tried some software that changes the colors rapidly. I am afraid how long I can force the pixel with the software without resulting in any kind of damage??I tried like 5min and shut it off.


----------



## knanda

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Looks more like a hot/stuck pixel than a dead pixel.
> 
> Dead pixels appear completely black.


I agree. I doesn't appear in blank screen also(only backlight). I can only see it on red/white backgrounds.
Is there a way to get rid of this struck pixel?? I have tried some software that changes the colors rapidly that should force the pixel to change color. I am afraid how long I can force the pixel with the software without resulting in any kind of damage??I tried like 5min and shut it off.


----------



## IcedEarth

Try looking up pixel massaging techniques.

Other than that, I have no idea.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I agree. I doesn't appear in blank screen also(only backlight). I can only see it on red/white backgrounds.
> Is there a way to get rid of this struck pixel?? I have tried some software that changes the colors rapidly that should force the pixel to change color. I am afraid how long I can force the pixel with the software without resulting in any kind of damage??I tried like 5min and shut it off.


Hot/stuck pixels usually go away with time.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I agree. I doesn't appear in blank screen also(only backlight). I can only see it on red/white backgrounds.
> Is there a way to get rid of this struck pixel?? I have tried some software that changes the colors rapidly that should force the pixel to change color. I am afraid how long I can force the pixel with the software without resulting in any kind of damage??I tried like 5min and shut it off.


Stuck pixels are also known as stuck subpixels - a stuck green subpixel will appear green on a black background.
Hot pixels are pixels where all three subpixels are lit - they are white in all instances.
Dead pixels appear dark. You can have dead subpixels - they will be dark.

For IPS screens, cycling that pixel through turning green on and off in that part of the screen might help. It shouldn't damage your screen and can't hurt.


----------



## FireBean

I don't get this! The LED Driver in my 27QLED went out. So I replaced it along with the power brick since the power brick was out putting 29v instead of 24v. The NEW power-brick has short circuit protection and it is still kicking off. Do I really need to replace the damn input board now?

*sigh*


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I agree. I doesn't appear in blank screen also(only backlight). I can only see it on red/white backgrounds.
> Is there a way to get rid of this struck pixel?? I have tried some software that changes the colors rapidly that should force the pixel to change color. I am afraid how long I can force the pixel with the software without resulting in any kind of damage??I tried like 5min and shut it off.


Usually they will not go away. They may act normal at times but will come back. I would recommend getting an RMA number to send it in if you still can or just replace the panel for $150-175.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FireBean*
> 
> I don't get this! The LED Driver in my 27QLED went out. So I replaced it along with the power brick since the power brick was out putting 29v instead of 24v. The NEW power-brick has short circuit protection and it is still kicking off. Do I really need to replace the damn input board now?
> 
> *sigh*


Well if it was outputting 29Vdc to your kordis board (video board)then it is highly likely it had damaged it. I don't know the input voltage range of the board, you might want to look it up online or it might be silk screened on the pcb. Usually they have a range of 19-36Vdc for protection but I can be wrong. Was it working with the power supply outputting 29Vdc? Is the new led driver board correct? I would get a multimeter out and start troubleshooting. Test the power supply again stand alone. Open the monitor up and make sure the kordis board is outputting the correct voltage to the led driver board. Also look for any damage on the kordis board, visually inspect the inductors.


----------



## matthijsbooij

Hi! I wast just reading your post about the crossover 27q.
I have the same screen but I can't connect it to my new macbook pro (2012 model) because evertime I trie my computer shuts down. Thing is that he does work on my old mac book pro (2007 model).
So I was wondering what year macbook pro you use. An if you had any off this troubles?

Greets,
Matthijs


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matthijsbooij*
> 
> Hi! I wast just reading your post about the crossover 27q.
> I have the same screen but I can't connect it to my new macbook pro (2012 model) because evertime I trie my computer shuts down. Thing is that he does work on my old mac book pro (2007 model).
> So I was wondering what year macbook pro you use. An if you had any off this troubles?
> 
> Greets,
> Matthijs


Your computer shuts off completely? or your screen goes black and its still running? What output video port are you using on your macbook pro? Are you using any type of adapter or converter?

We need to know what the differences are connecting it to your 2012 macbook to your 2007 macbook. Please tell us each configuration. Also what integrated/dedicated video processing unit is in your macbooks and what driver version you are using?


----------



## DivideByZer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivideByZer0*
> 
> I just received a Crossover 27Q and it was working great, until I tried turning it off and on again. The screen starts off with a bunch of vertical lines, which blink down the screen in 10-30 seconds, until the screen is just black and flickering.


So apparently I need to buy a new PCB for my monitor; of course I should have read the thread before ordering from ASTROBILE. Does anyone know of a reliable seller for these?


----------



## ZaYoOoD

Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?


----------



## ZaYoOoD

Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivideByZer0*
> 
> So apparently I need to buy a new PCB for my monitor; of course I should have read the thread before ordering from ASTROBILE. Does anyone know of a reliable seller for these?


PCB? There are three PCB's in the unit which doesn't include the internal panels lvds. (kordis board, led driver board, osd button board) Since the panel still has backlight from the LED driver board it looks like you have a faulty kordis kit (video board) but it may also be the panel. Have you tried a different DVI cable and updating your display driver just for s&g's.

Found a replacement board on ebay. It uses display port and its input 14Vdc ~ 19Vdc. I'd get the data sheet from them to double check the output pinouts to the led driver board. Test the current kordis board with a multi meter and document. The LVDS should be exactly the same pinout and they give you the cable as well as the osd board and cable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DF-Signal-LCD-Controller-board-work-for-LM270WQ1-27inch-2560-1440-Lcd-Panel-/181110503192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2b06f718
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZaYoOoD*
> 
> Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
> If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZaYoOoD*
> 
> Is there any software tool "Mac OS X/Windows" that will allow us to control the CrossOver brightness?
> If I use the monitor at day time, the brightness is perfect, at night time however, it is too strong, so I have to go and press the buttons to change it overtime.. anything that will help me here?


You can control brightness, contrast, gamma, etc. through your display driver. You can also calibrate the display in windows.


----------



## FireBean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Well if it was outputting 29Vdc to your kordis board (video board)then it is highly likely it had damaged it. I don't know the input voltage range of the board, you might want to look it up online or it might be silk screened on the pcb. Usually they have a range of 19-36Vdc for protection but I can be wrong. Was it working with the power supply outputting 29Vdc? Is the new led driver board correct? I would get a multimeter out and start troubleshooting. Test the power supply again stand alone. Open the monitor up and make sure the kordis board is outputting the correct voltage to the led driver board. Also look for any damage on the kordis board, visually inspect the inductors.


Thank you for the input. I have now taken it apart again. there appears to be no visible damage to the kordis board. For kicks and grins, I decided to plug the power backwards (rotated 180) and the monitor kicked on! No picture though. I'm starting to wonder if I grabbed a power brick with the wrong pinout. According to the powerbrick, looking at the connector with the flat side/keyed at 12 o'clock, the + pins are on the right side. I have verified this to see if I somehow got a backwards brick, but I highly doubt that.

Does anyone happen to know the actual pinout of the power connector or can you take a multimeter to the pins? The outside of the power connector is also the ground. If you use that for testing, you won't throw a spark.


----------



## DivideByZer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> PCB? There are three PCB's in the unit which doesn't include the internal panels lvds. (kordis board, led driver board, osd button board) Since the panel still has backlight from the LED driver board it looks like you have a faulty kordis kit (video board) but it may also be the panel. Have you tried a different DVI cable and updating your display driver just for s&g's.
> 
> Found a replacement board on ebay. It uses display port and its input 14Vdc ~ 19Vdc. I'd get the data sheet from them to double check the output pinouts to the led driver board. Test the current kordis board with a multi meter and document. The LVDS should be exactly the same pinout and they give you the cable as well as the osd board and cable.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DF-Signal-LCD-Controller-board-work-for-LM270WQ1-27inch-2560-1440-Lcd-Panel-/181110503192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2b06f718
> 
> You can control brightness, contrast, gamma, etc. through your display driver. You can also calibrate the display in windows.


Thanks for the link! In fact, I found a seller of 27Q's, cool-guys, who is shipping me a replacement board, model number VLD0100. Accessorieswhole also offered to sell me one for the same price. I messaged all the sellers of 27Qs on ebay asking if they were selling this board. It's the main board that all the cables plug into (DVI, power, buttons, screen etc.) It's $40, but I'd rather just take the hit and leave negative feedback for this known scammer, ASTROBILE. (rather than pushing the case to its conclusion and having Ebay tell me to pay return shipping w/o the option of feedback.) I'm hoping it's not the panel and that I just got a faulty PCB. (also, I've tried a different cable, my friend's PC, and a different power adapter, and none of these worked. If it turns out to be the panel I guess I'll have to end up paying return shipping......)


----------



## myrtleee34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dustin1*
> 
> So this is what my monitor is doing... Takes a few restarts to fix but it eventually works just fine. I haven't tried using my other GPU yet but it didn't start doing this until I got my Crossover. I've already tried 2 different DVI-D cables, etc.. Only thing I haven't tried is my 2nd GPU. Which I'm wanting second opinions because I think my monitor may be defective.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: CROSSOVER ISSUES **PICTURE HEAVY**
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone got an opinion they wanna share? I'm totally lost...


Mine dose the same thing!


----------



## knanda

Successfully running 2730MDP monitor at 85HZ for 2 Days. This is the maximum refresh rate I tried till now and its working perfectly. No frame skipping or any other problems.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FireBean*
> 
> Thank you for the input. I have now taken it apart again. there appears to be no visible damage to the kordis board. For kicks and grins, I decided to plug the power backwards (rotated 180) and the monitor kicked on! No picture though. I'm starting to wonder if I grabbed a power brick with the wrong pinout. According to the powerbrick, looking at the connector with the flat side/keyed at 12 o'clock, the + pins are on the right side. I have verified this to see if I somehow got a backwards brick, but I highly doubt that.
> 
> Does anyone happen to know the actual pinout of the power connector or can you take a multimeter to the pins? The outside of the power connector is also the ground. If you use that for testing, you won't throw a spark.


Tested mine a few moments ago. It is keyed so, if the polarity is silk screened on the kordis board you can go off of that. Or the picture below.

Not sure why the Koreans made the psu connector a male connector? Usually sends voltage is female and receives voltage is male. Scary to think if the male end was unplugged while receiving AC and laying on the floor.

Also my output was 23.6Vdc. I was happy it wasn't exactly 24Vdc since who knows how they engineered the kordis board +/- 10% could damage it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DivideByZer0*
> 
> Thanks for the link! In fact, I found a seller of 27Q's, cool-guys, who is shipping me a replacement board, model number VLD0100. Accessorieswhole also offered to sell me one for the same price. I messaged all the sellers of 27Qs on ebay asking if they were selling this board. It's the main board that all the cables plug into (DVI, power, buttons, screen etc.) It's $40, but I'd rather just take the hit and leave negative feedback for this known scammer, ASTROBILE. (rather than pushing the case to its conclusion and having Ebay tell me to pay return shipping w/o the option of feedback.) I'm hoping it's not the panel and that I just got a faulty PCB. (also, I've tried a different cable, my friend's PC, and a different power adapter, and none of these worked. If it turns out to be the panel I guess I'll have to end up paying return shipping......)


You can find many video boards that will work with the LG panel. If you bought it from accessorieswhole they will send you all the parts for free using fedex air shipping method.


----------



## FireBean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Tested mine a few moments ago. It is keyed so, if the polarity is silk screened on the kordis board you can go off of that. Or the picture below.
> 
> Not sure why the Koreans made the psu connector a male connector? Usually sends voltage is female and receives voltage is male. Scary to think if the male end was unplugged while receiving AC and laying on the floor.
> 
> Also my output was 23.6Vdc. I was happy it wasn't exactly 24Vdc since who knows how they engineered the kordis board +/- 10% could damage it.




So it does look like I need a kordis board now. *sigh* It lights up the monitor but there is no video what so ever.

I really hope that nothing else is wrong with this damn thing.


----------



## derfer

I think my board or psu is dying. The brightness flickers a bit and then it does that black screen but still on thing. Turning it off and back on helps. Anybody else get this?


----------



## FireBean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> I think my board or psu is dying. The brightness flickers a bit and then it does that black screen but still on thing. Turning it off and back on helps. Anybody else get this?


You're going to replace BOTH the PSU and the board. This is what happen to me. Stop using it until you at least get a new power-brick. Mine killed the video input board (Krodis board).


----------



## derfer

The board and psu huh? My bezel has paint bubbles. My panel has developed a dark spot. I might as well just get a new one. Question is will it just happen again? I read they improved the boards to stop flickering, but did they add better psus as well? Figure I'd order from AW again.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FireBean*
> 
> 
> 
> So it does look like I need a kordis board now. *sigh* It lights up the monitor but there is no video what so ever.
> 
> I really hope that nothing else is wrong with this damn thing.


If you look on the power supply there is also a label too. Just noticed. :facepalm:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> I think my board or psu is dying. The brightness flickers a bit and then it does that black screen but still on thing. Turning it off and back on helps. Anybody else get this?


If its the backlight that dimms or flickers its most likely the LED driver board which powers the backlight. When the LED driver board over heats/fails it will shut off which then turns off the LED's backlight of the panel. Since the power supply is still sending power to the video board, the video board and osd(button board) are still fully functioning. The osd board should still respond if you press the power button on and off. You just wont see any backlight, but the video board is still sending video through the lvds board on the panel you just can't see the video because its dark. The Rev 00 board has a known issue with the mosfet failing. You can actually take the access panel off, unscrew and look for discoloration (brown) on the PCB. If you need any guidance replacing the board PM me. Accessorywhole will send you a new LED driver board for free if it is still under the 1 year warranty.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FireBean*
> 
> You're going to replace BOTH the PSU and the board. This is what happen to me. Stop using it until you at least get a new power-brick. Mine killed the video input board (Krodis board).


He does not need to replace the kordis video board or the external power supply. It is most likely the LED driver board if its a backlight issue. The reason why you have no video is because you sent 24Vdc to the kordis board in the incorrect polarity. These boards most likely don't have reverse polarity protection. The video board would only be affected, the panel, led driver board and osd should be fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> The board and psu huh? My bezel has paint bubbles. My panel has developed a dark spot. I might as well just get a new one. Question is will it just happen again? I read they improved the boards to stop flickering, but did they add better psus as well? Figure I'd order from AW again.


Again, check the LED driver board for brown discoloration on the back of the PCB and the mosfet for failure. If it is fried, contact accessorieswhole and ask them to send you a replacement LED driver board. It should be a green PCB, its a direct swap. Takes about 2 minutes to replace. Picture of mine when I replaced it 10 months ago. At the time I walked away from my computer and I could not get any backlight on the panel. Opened it up and first thing I checked was the LED driver board which supplies power for the panels LED backlighting. I work as a technician for touch monitors, kiosks and computers. Nothing new to me. I searched for a new board for hours because 10 months ago noone had the issue yet. I sent accesorieswhole a email with pictures and I asked them for a new REV and specifically said I did not want the REV 00. Was there a fix that engineering did? Yes, new REV we send you new board ok! I just hope on the new LED driver board they used decent capacitors because I've seen cheap caps blow on inverters many times. If they do go you can replace them for less than $2. Try to always buy panasonic caps too they have a very long life rating and up to 105C.


----------



## FireBean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> He does not need to replace the kordis video board or the external power supply. It is most likely the LED driver board if its a backlight issue. The reason why you have no video is because you sent 24Vdc to the kordis board in the incorrect polarity. These boards most likely don't have reverse polarity protection. The video board would only be affected, the panel, led driver board and osd should be fine.


I was refering to the LED Driver board.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Sigh, BCC aren't even replying to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Technically it's evening there now, meaning they had yesterday and today to reply so it's pretty much been 48 hours business time unless there's a holiday going on in South Korea?
> 
> I'll give it one more day just in case they're busy or something.
> 
> EDIT: Received a reply from BCC now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to upload the video I recorded then I can reply to him.


Just a small update.

Here's the latest reply from BCC:
Quote:


> I request inverter Board from manufacturer.
> They prepare to make shipment.
> When I receive board, I will send it by express shipping service.


Is this the part I need for my backlight flickering, "image going to black whilst monitor light stays blue" problems?

I've just replied to his email and sent him a picture of the LED driver board asking him if he will be sending me the green one, hopefully he will and hopefully it fixes my problems.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Just a small update.
> 
> Here's the latest reply from BCC:
> Quote:
> I request inverter Board from manufacturer.
> They prepare to make shipment.
> When I receive board, I will send it by express shipping service.
> 
> Is this the part I need for my backlight flickering, "image going to black whilst monitor light stays blue" problems?
> I've just replied to his email and sent him a picture of the LED driver board asking him if he will be sending me the green one, hopefully he will and hopefully it fixes my problems.


Did you inspect the LED driver board and confirm that it is REV 00? by digitalwave(blue PCB with large coil) If it is failing there should be visual damage at the mosfet and brownish discoloration on the back of the PCB. I would suggest everyone inspect their LED driver board for the REV 00. If you do have the REV 00 I highly suggest you contact your seller and have them ship you the new REV (green PCB). Even if the LED driver board is not failing yet it will eventually fail.

Not sure why BCC is calling it a inverter. Big difference from inverter to LED driver. Inverters input DC then convert the voltage to output AC for the CCFL bulbs.


----------



## Dabb

Yep, I've just gone and checked it now and I do indeed have the blue LED driver/inverter board which is rev00.

You can see in the pictures below that the mosfet is damaged and there is discolouration on the areas around and behind the mosfet.

I don't think I've seen a guide on how to replace any parts of the monitor so far so I'll make a simple picture tutorial.

*Guide to opening the Crossover 27Q monitor and replacing parts*

Firstly, unscrew two screws at the bottom and 6 on each side on the back of the monitor. The 7 screws in the centre can remain there (left and right 2 hold the side "flaps" and the bottom 3 hold the monitor i/o plate).



Once you've done that the back "shell" of the monitor should be free from the screen. The back shell has the LCD driver/inverter board on the left and another board in the middle. (Looking at it from the back, not from the front)

*Be very careful as you lift the back shell up as there are two wires connected to the panel.* One is at the top and one is on the left side of the monitor, going into the LCD driver/inverter board. You need to carefully disconnect these two cables.

Here is the panel itself:



The boards screwed to the back shell:



Rev 00 Digital Wave LED Driver/Inverter board:



You can see that the mosfet is damaged and the area around it is discoloured in my photo. Here's a picture of more obvious discolouration on the back:



When you put the monitor back together, make sure the little light diffusing plastic thing is placed back into position:



I didn't realise mine fell out and I didn't feel like going through all the screws again so I'll put it back in when the replacement boards arrives.


----------



## Kiracubed

Bought the 27QD fro maccessorieswhole Sunday at like 2am. It tried to get here Tuesday around 2pm-- Twice I wasn't able to answer the door, so I will get it tomorrow. Still, amazing how fast they ship it, and it was free shipping! $339 shipped!

Hoping I don't get any dead pixels, but this would be my third monitor. I want to try nvidia Surround, but it's a bit of a doozy. I have an Acer HN274HBbmiiid (1080p), Auria EQ276W (1440p) and now this. Just to try Surround, for best experience, I will run it at 5760 x 1080. It's more to test if the bezels will irk me. If it does, I'll sell my Acer and go dual monitor with the Auria and the Crossover. Definitely recommend dual monitor for those who want efficiency and are not already using!


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Yep, I've just gone and checked it now and I do indeed have the blue LED driver/inverter board which is rev00.
> 
> You can see in the pictures below that the mosfet is damaged and there is discolouration on the areas around and behind the mosfet.
> 
> I don't think I've seen a guide on how to replace any parts of the monitor so far so I'll make a simple picture tutorial.
> 
> *Guide to opening the monitor and replacing parts*
> 
> Firstly, unscrew two screws at the bottom and 6 on each side on the back of the monitor. The 7 screws in the centre can remain there (left and right 2 hold the side "flaps" and the bottom 3 hold the monitor i/o plate).
> 
> 
> 
> Once you've done that the back "shell" of the monitor should be free from the screen. The back shell has the LCD driver/inverter board on the left and another board in the middle. (Looking at it from the back, not from the front)
> 
> *Be very careful as you lift the back shell up as there are two wires connected to the panel.* One is at the top and one is on the left side of the monitor, going into the LCD driver/inverter board. You need to carefully disconnect these two cables.
> 
> Here is the panel itself:
> 
> 
> 
> The boards screwed to the back shell:
> 
> 
> 
> Rev 00 Digital Wave LED Driver/Inverter board:
> 
> 
> 
> You can see that the mosfet is damaged and the area around it is discoloured in my photo. Here's a picture of more obvious discolouration on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> When you put the monitor back together, make sure the little light diffusing plastic thing is placed back into position:
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realise mine fell out and I didn't feel like going through all the screws again so I'll put it back in when the replacement boards arrives.


Can I use this guide to disassemble my 2730mdp?? I want to check if I got the blue or green pcb.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Can I use this guide to disassemble my 2730mdp?? I want to check if I got the blue or green pcb.


Ah, I forgot to mention that that was for the 27Q only. The other models have a different housing from what I can see.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Yep, I've just gone and checked it now and I do indeed have the blue LED driver/inverter board which is rev00.
> 
> You can see in the pictures below that the mosfet is damaged and there is discolouration on the areas around and behind the mosfet.
> 
> I don't think I've seen a guide on how to replace any parts of the monitor so far so I'll make a simple picture tutorial.
> 
> *Guide to opening the Crossover 27Q monitor and replacing parts*
> 
> Firstly, unscrew two screws at the bottom and 6 on each side on the back of the monitor. The 7 screws in the centre can remain there (left and right 2 hold the side "flaps" and the bottom 3 hold the monitor i/o plate).
> 
> 
> 
> Once you've done that the back "shell" of the monitor should be free from the screen. The back shell has the LCD driver/inverter board on the left and another board in the middle. (Looking at it from the back, not from the front)
> 
> *Be very careful as you lift the back shell up as there are two wires connected to the panel.* One is at the top and one is on the left side of the monitor, going into the LCD driver/inverter board. You need to carefully disconnect these two cables.
> 
> Here is the panel itself:
> 
> 
> 
> The boards screwed to the back shell:
> 
> 
> 
> Rev 00 Digital Wave LED Driver/Inverter board:
> 
> 
> 
> You can see that the mosfet is damaged and the area around it is discoloured in my photo. Here's a picture of more obvious discolouration on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> When you put the monitor back together, make sure the little light diffusing plastic thing is placed back into position:
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realise mine fell out and I didn't feel like going through all the screws again so I'll put it back in when the replacement boards arrives.


You actually don't have to take the whole back cover off. You should be able to take the 4 screws out for the LED driver access panel. Just be careful to not pull the panel up too far because there are two wiring connections. Also it's just a LED driver board not a inverter. Inverter is very different.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Can I use this guide to disassemble my 2730mdp?? I want to check if I got the blue or green pcb.


It should be almost identical. Monitors are very easy to take apart. Not sure if the LED driver board will be the same since your panels brightness is 380cd and the 27Q is 420cd but it only takes a few minutes to check.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> You actually don't have to take the whole back cover off. You should be able to take the 4 screws out for the LED driver access panel. Just be careful to not pull the panel up too far because there are two wiring connections. Also it's just a LED driver board not a inverter. Inverter is very different.


Well it didn't work for me, I obviously tried that first. I would have thought that with the way they designed it I could just open the left and right flaps but I tried on both sides and they both wouldn't come out.

I have no idea if it's an inverter board or what to be honest. The board itself says it's a LED driver board but BCC said he's sending me an inverter board. I linked him my images though to make sure he's sending me the right board and he said he is sending me an inverter board which will solve the problems I described... lol.


----------



## Kiracubed

Got my monitor, and it's great... except I have a LOT of light bleeding! There are four big "splotches" of light bleed; two right next to each other a little right off center, and one on each off corner of the bottom. What's accessorieswhole return/exchange policy, in anyone's experience?


----------



## matixryder

Hello guys, I am having the same problem with the so called inverter board. My board has some serious discolor. Can you please tell me where can I order the board? Since my seller doesn't want to honor the warranty he promised. Thank you very much!! Also,can you guys give me the picture of your AC adapter? Mine is Input 110-240v~50/60Hz, 1.5A. Output: 24v----5.0A. Could it be the cause of my problem?


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matixryder*
> 
> Hello guys, I am having the same problem with the so called inverter board. My board has some serious discolor. Can you please tell me where can I order the board? Since my seller doesn't want to honor the warranty he promised. Thank you very much!! Also,can you guys give me the picture of your AC adapter? Mine is Input 110-240v~50/60Hz, 1.5A. Output: 24v----5.0A. Could it be the cause of my problem?


AC adapter is the same what everyone gets with their monitor. You might want to check the output of your AC adapter. These adapters sometimes give more output than what specified on them, which may cause the damage to the monitor.


----------



## matixryder

Pardon me for my lack of knowledge, but how can I measure the output voltage of the AC Adapter?


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matixryder*
> 
> Pardon me for my lack of knowledge, but how can I measure the output voltage of the AC Adapter?


You can take the adapter to any local repair store where they can measure the voltage output of the adapter or you can buy any device that can measure the DC output. Better option is to take the adapter to a local store and ask them to test it for you.


----------



## matixryder

Thank you!! By the way, do you have any idea where can I order the Led Controller Board?


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matixryder*
> 
> Thank you!! By the way, do you have any idea where can I order the Led Controller Board?


Order it from the accesorieswhole(Ebay Seller)


----------



## aixiaoqing

Hello guys!

I got a Crossover 2730md however, my brightness OSD doesn't work.

Does anyone know what is the problem?

The only way I could tweak the brightness is through the contrast settings but that isn't right.

By the way I'm hooking it up with an HDMI port to my laptop, wonder if it matters?

Appreciate the help and advice that you guys are going to give.


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> Hello guys!
> 
> I got a Crossover 2730md however, my brightness OSD doesn't work.
> 
> Does anyone know what is the problem?
> 
> The only way I could tweak the brightness is through the contrast settings but that isn't right.
> 
> By the way I'm hooking it up with an HDMI port to my laptop, wonder if it matters?
> 
> Appreciate the help and advice that you guys are going to give.


Mine doesn't work either..When I turn off and on again I am able to increase the brightness. Try and check if it works.
Did you overclock the monitor?? What resolution are you getting from HDMI?? I am getting upto 1080p only


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matixryder*
> 
> Hello guys, I am having the same problem with the so called inverter board. My board has some serious discolor. Can you please tell me where can I order the board? Since my seller doesn't want to honor the warranty he promised. Thank you very much!! Also,can you guys give me the picture of your AC adapter? Mine is Input 110-240v~50/60Hz, 1.5A. Output: 24v----5.0A. Could it be the cause of my problem?


Most likely no. First thing to check is the LED driver board. Check previous posts. Contact accesorieswhole, give them your monitor model or LED panel model and they will send you a LED driver board. Ask them for the new REV Green PCB. You can find a few different boards online that will work with your panel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> Hello guys!
> 
> I got a Crossover 2730md however, my brightness OSD doesn't work.
> 
> Does anyone know what is the problem?
> 
> The only way I could tweak the brightness is through the contrast settings but that isn't right.
> 
> By the way I'm hooking it up with an HDMI port to my laptop, wonder if it matters?
> 
> Appreciate the help and advice that you guys are going to give.


I don't see why it would matter if its connected to your laptop. Try connecting the monitor to a different video output source then try adjusting the brightness. If it doesn't work with either I'd open the monitor up and check to see if the cable is plugged in. (could have came loose) Also while you have it open check the LED driver board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Mine doesn't work either..When I turn off and on again I am able to increase the brightness. Try and check if it works.
> Did you overclock the monitor?? What resolution are you getting from HDMI?? I am getting upto 1080p only


Yes, thats because your video card (video output) can only send up to 1080p. Try running it through DVI output with a DVI to HDMI adapter.


----------



## joostflux

Correct me if I'm wrong but HDMI can only carry up to 1080p. For anything higher you need Dual Link DVI.


----------



## derfer

Still waiting on a reply from AW on the board replacement. Hope the warranty is honored.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joostflux*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but HDMI can only carry up to 1080p. For anything higher you need Dual Link DVI.


False, v1.3 is good up to 2560x1600 it all depends on the output device and the input. I would double check the output resolution supported by his video card/device also the cable. I prefer DVI-D or DP buts thats me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Still waiting on a reply from AW on the board replacement. Hope the warranty is honored.


It will be if it is under warranty.


----------



## DaftDrunk

Would anyone be kind enough to tell me if the 27Q is HDCP compliant? I use an HDHomeRun Prime to watch copy protected live TV on my PC.


----------



## derfer

Weird. They asked for a video of the issue. Thought I described it pretty well. I mean there's no signal being displayed. How many variations of that can there be? I guess they won't be happy until I get a photo of the board with burn out on it.


----------



## aixiaoqing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Mine doesn't work either..When I turn off and on again I am able to increase the brightness. Try and check if it works.
> Did you overclock the monitor?? What resolution are you getting from HDMI?? I am getting upto 1080p only


Nope, I couldn't do it.

I don't think I overclocked it, because I had no idea how to neither did I went to look up how to.

But when I use output such as RGB, it showed higher refresh rate, 87.5hz / 60hz etc.

I'm a newb in this, what does that mean?

I'm on 1080p too.


----------



## aixiaoqing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I don't see why it would matter if its connected to your laptop. Try connecting the monitor to a different video output source then try adjusting the brightness. If it doesn't work with either I'd open the monitor up and check to see if the cable is plugged in. (could have came loose) Also while you have it open check the LED driver board.


I see. I tried connecting it to my ps3 and I still couldn't set the brightness using the OSD.

I also tried using RGB which also had the same problem.

If I had to open up the monitor, may I know what I need to check for?

Because I'm not very good with hardwares.

Thanks for the information provided.


----------



## zerokool_3211

i am think ing of getting one of these to replace my 1080p eyefinity setup

first thing that i wanted to ask is that is is worth it to pay for the perfect pixel or not

and second is that i was thinking of going with a matte finish this time( to be better on my eyes, as i spend a lot of time on my pc working and playing games)

so far i am looking at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolutionll-27-LED-Monitor-World-Ship-/221227466132?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item33822f3d94
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-NEW-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-27-QHD-2560-X-1440-MONITOR-Speaker-/221212265587?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3381474c73


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> Nope, I couldn't do it.
> 
> I don't think I overclocked it, because I had no idea how to neither did I went to look up how to.
> 
> But when I use output such as RGB, it showed higher refresh rate, 87.5hz / 60hz etc.
> 
> I'm a newb in this, what does that mean?
> 
> I'm on 1080p too.


I am using monitor at 1440p via DVI. When I use my laptop via hdmi, only 1080p. May be it's the HDMI cable I have doesn't support more than 1080p.
I have overclocked via Nvidia control panel-> custom resolution. You can set the desired refresh rate there. 87.5/60Hz is the normal refresh rate for the monitor.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaftDrunk*
> 
> Would anyone be kind enough to tell me if the 27Q is HDCP compliant? I use an HDHomeRun Prime to watch copy protected live TV on my PC.


That is a question you would have to ask the seller/manufacture. I highly doubt it is HDCP compliant.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Weird. They asked for a video of the issue. Thought I described it pretty well. I mean there's no signal being displayed. How many variations of that can there be? I guess they won't be happy until I get a photo of the board with burn out on it.


Yes, you will only get a new one if you send pictures of the failed led driver board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> I see. I tried connecting it to my ps3 and I still couldn't set the brightness using the OSD.
> 
> I also tried using RGB which also had the same problem.
> 
> If I had to open up the monitor, may I know what I need to check for?
> 
> Because I'm not very good with hardwares.
> 
> Thanks for the information provided.


There is a long cable (longest) which comes from the video board and connects to the osd (button board) If it's properly plugged in I'd say you have a faulty osd board or video board. The osd board receives/sends data signals to the video board which then sends to the led driver board. Which lowers leds brightness controlled by pwm. Not sure if the board has the chip or the display panel itself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I am using monitor at 1440p via DVI. When I use my laptop via hdmi, only 1080p. May be it's the HDMI cable I have doesn't support more than 1080p.
> I have overclocked via Nvidia control panel-> custom resolution. You can set the desired refresh rate there. 87.5/60Hz is the normal refresh rate for the monitor.


60Hz should be the normal refresh rate for the monitor at 1080p. The output of your laptop is only 1920x1080 which is the highest standard resolution of which TV's can use. That's what they designed the HDMI port for. This is very common on laptops. What manufacture and model is your laptop?


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> 60Hz should be the normal refresh rate for the monitor at 1080p. The output of your laptop is only 1920x1080 which is the highest standard resolution of which TV's can use. That's what they designed the HDMI port for. This is very common on laptops. What manufacture and model is your laptop?


I have an Vaio ivy bridge laptop with integrated graphics 4000.


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaftDrunk*
> 
> Would anyone be kind enough to tell me if the 27Q is HDCP compliant? I use an HDHomeRun Prime to watch copy protected live TV on my PC.


I have an 2730Mdp and in Nvidia Control Panel it shows my monitor is hdcp compliant.


----------



## Dabb

My monitor's LED driver board seemed to have completely died now. No image or backlighting whatsoever. Hopefully my replacement gets here soon but it's bank holiday weekend here so there are probably delays to mail services. Just my luck!

I guess I shouldn't complain as my monitor doesn't have a single dead pixel though, plus the replacement is effectively free. (I do have to send back the faulty board but that shouldn't cost too much as its small and light.)


----------



## zerokool_3211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerokool_3211*
> 
> i am think ing of getting one of these to replace my 1080p eyefinity setup
> 
> first thing that i wanted to ask is that is is worth it to pay for the perfect pixel or not
> 
> and second is that i was thinking of going with a matte finish this time( to be better on my eyes, as i spend a lot of time on my pc working and playing games)
> 
> so far i am looking at
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixels-Matte-QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolutionll-27-LED-Monitor-World-Ship-/221227466132?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item33822f3d94
> and
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-NEW-CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-27-QHD-2560-X-1440-MONITOR-Speaker-/221212265587?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3381474c73


any comments on my post?


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerokool_3211*
> 
> any comments on my post?


Get the Qnix if you want 80-120hz.


----------



## Koehler

zerokool_3211 the CrossOver 27Q LED has better build quality than the QNIX.

However get the QNIX if you want similar image quality but want to overclock your monitor to 120Hz.


----------



## zerokool_3211

is the crossover matte as well....it doesnt really say

really i dont think that i can overclock it because i run the Red Team....LOL

also is it worth paying for the pixel perfect auctions?....if so th the QNIX is more than laikely what i will go with....as long as the image will be on par with both....coming from 3 cheap AOC 1080p eyefinity setup so....ROFL


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I have an Vaio ivy bridge laptop with integrated graphics 4000.


I will need your model number to check. Intel 4000 will do 2560X1600 through DP but I believe it can only achieve 1920X1200 through HDMI.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I have an 2730Mdp and in Nvidia Control Panel it shows my monitor is hdcp compliant.


Yes, DVI to DVI. I've heard that these monitors aren't HDCP compatible. Why would every manuafacture like DELL and Samsung list HDCP compliant on most of their monitors but the koreans don't list it in their descriptions. If its a Crossover with HDMI then yes by no doubt it is HDCP. Is he going to be using HDMI out to DVI in? You'll need a HDMI female to DVI male adapter if so. Not sure if it will work through that. HDMI to DVI cable should. Does anyone have a bluray player or PS3 to test? Even though it says its compatible someone should test this, unfortunately I don't have the devices to test.


----------



## derfer

Now that I have it open any mods for blb? I have just a tiny bit on the bottom. There was practically zero when I got it but it creeped in after about a week.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerokool_3211*
> 
> is the crossover matte as well....it doesnt really say
> 
> really i dont think that i can overclock it because i run the Red Team....LOL
> 
> also is it worth paying for the pixel perfect auctions?....if so th the QNIX is more than laikely what i will go with....as long as the image will be on par with both....coming from 3 cheap AOC 1080p eyefinity setup so....ROFL


Yes the CrossOver 27Q LED is matte.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-Screen-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-BLADE-27-S-IPS-MONITOR-2560-X-1440-QHD-Speaker-/321106016295


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Yep, I've tried to explain things more simply just to save time for both parties. I'm wondering whether I should just sell this monitor for slightly cheap and pick up a Dell U2713HM. Then again, I've heard of some bad experiences with it too so I'm not sure I'd want to go with it. Hopefully my monitor will just limp along until I can fix it - would be rather annoyed if it died before so as it's my only monitor.
> 
> I'll open the monitor if they ask me to, otherwise I'll leave it as it is for now.
> 
> Will definitely report back!


Received the replacement today and problems seem to be completely fixed! I've only been using the monitor for 5 minutes though but it all seems good to me. Before I'd get a bit of flickering at start up, but none at all now.

My replacement LED driver board came in a brown cardboard box as follows:



At first glimpse I thought they sent me the rev00 blue PCB one but upon paying more attention and opening it up, I realised I got the green PCB one!



Fits pretty snuggly where the blue PCB was:



One of the ports have relocated to the top though which means a little more stress for the wires but they're long enough anyway.

For anyone interested, here's the correspondence:

*6th May:* Problem found, contacted BCC after finding out what I needed to resolve the issue here in this thread.
*9th May:* BCC replied with simple troubleshooting solutions and asked for a YouTube video so that they could better understand the problem.
*9th May:* I replied saying I followed the troubleshooting solutions and that they didn't work and sent him links to two YouTube videos showing the monitor flicker and lose the image.
*13th May:* BCC replied asking for S/N number and more photographs and videos of the monitor.
*14th May:* I replied with the info he requested.
*15th May:* BCC told me he passed my information to the manufacturer to receive a "detailed solution" from them.
*16th May:* BCC said he will contact me when he received the information.
*21th May:* I emailed them again as I didn't hear any replies from BCC.
*22nd May:* BCC said he requested for an "inverter board" and that he would send it to me via express shipping as well as asking confirmation of my address and asking me to send back the faulty one.
*22nd May:* I replied with a photo of the green board asking if that was the replacement he'd be sending along with providing my address and agreeing to send back the faulty PCB.
*22nd May:* BCC let me know he received the board and asked me to confirm that I would send the faulty one back (maybe i didn't make it clear) which I replied with a confirmation.
*23rd May:* I opened my monitor and took photos of the rev00 LED driver board to show BCC asking for a final confirmation that the replacement that the replacement would fix my issue.
*23rd May:* BCC replied confirming that it will fix my issue and dispatched my replacement LED driver board via express shipping.
*23rd May:* I replied asking for the returns address and asked whether I needed to send the faulty board back via normal airmail or signed but haven't received any replies since.
*28th May:* Received the replacement and everything works fine! Bare in mind 25th-26th was the weekend and the 27th was a bank holiday here so it basically took 48 hours to arrive here!

All in all, it took just over 3 weeks for the whole issue to be fixed. BCC could have replied faster initially (his replies were very fast later on as you can see!) but that's assuming he knew about the problems (which I assume he did as my problem wasn't an isolated one) but I effectively got my replacement for free and my monitor works now so I'm not complaining. I'm going to email him again asking him for a returns address, assuming he still waned the faulty board back.


----------



## DaftDrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I have an 2730Mdp and in Nvidia Control Panel it shows my monitor is hdcp compliant.


Thanks!


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Received the replacement today and problems seem to be completely fixed! I've only been using the monitor for 5 minutes though but it all seems good to me. Before I'd get a bit of flickering at start up, but none at all now.
> 
> My replacement LED driver board came in a brown cardboard box as follows:
> 
> 
> 
> At first glimpse I thought they sent me the rev00 blue PCB one but upon paying more attention and opening it up, I realised I got the green PCB one!
> 
> 
> 
> Fits pretty snuggly where the blue PCB was:
> 
> 
> 
> One of the ports have relocated to the top though which means a little more stress for the wires but they're long enough anyway.
> 
> For anyone interested, here's the correspondence:
> 
> *6th May:* Problem found, contacted BCC after finding out what I needed to resolve the issue here in this thread.
> *9th May:* BCC replied with simple troubleshooting solutions and asked for a YouTube video so that they could better understand the problem.
> *9th May:* I replied saying I followed the troubleshooting solutions and that they didn't work and sent him links to two YouTube videos showing the monitor flicker and lose the image.
> *13th May:* BCC replied asking for S/N number and more photographs and videos of the monitor.
> *14th May:* I replied with the info he requested.
> *15th May:* BCC told me he passed my information to the manufacturer to receive a "detailed solution" from them.
> *16th May:* BCC said he will contact me when he received the information.
> *21th May:* I emailed them again as I didn't hear any replies from BCC.
> *22nd May:* BCC said he requested for an "inverter board" and that he would send it to me via express shipping as well as asking confirmation of my address and asking me to send back the faulty one.
> *22nd May:* I replied with a photo of the green board asking if that was the replacement he'd be sending along with providing my address and agreeing to send back the faulty PCB.
> *22nd May:* BCC let me know he received the board and asked me to confirm that I would send the faulty one back (maybe i didn't make it clear) which I replied with a confirmation.
> *23rd May:* I opened my monitor and took photos of the rev00 LED driver board to show BCC asking for a final confirmation that the replacement that the replacement would fix my issue.
> *23rd May:* BCC replied confirming that it will fix my issue and dispatched my replacement LED driver board via express shipping.
> *23rd May:* I replied asking for the returns address and asked whether I needed to send the faulty board back via normal airmail or signed but haven't received any replies since.
> *28th May:* Received the replacement and everything works fine! Bare in mind 25th-26th was the weekend and the 27th was a bank holiday here so it basically took 48 hours to arrive here!
> 
> All in all, it took just over 3 weeks for the whole issue to be fixed. BCC could have replied faster initially (his replies were very fast later on as you can see!) but that's assuming he knew about the problems (which I assume he did as my problem wasn't an isolated one) but I effectively got my replacement for free and my monitor works now so I'm not complaining. I'm going to email him again asking him for a returns address, assuming he still waned the faulty board back.


Awesome, glad all is well.


----------



## derfer

I think everything will work out with getting the board from AW now. I sent off the pics of the discoloration but it's taking awhile. There's a long turn around time with every message I send.


----------



## zerokool_3211

ok last ? before i buy....is it worth paying the extra for the pixel perfect auctions?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerokool_3211*
> 
> ok last ? before i buy....is it worth paying the extra for the pixel perfect auctions?


It'll be guaranteed less than a set amount of dead/stuck pixels out of the box but most will say, no it's not worth the extra money for the pixel perfect versions. The vast majority of owners here have gotten perfect panels when buying the normal versions.
Myself included, the two Crossovers I resold were pixel perfect but were not bought as. Hope it helps your decision in time


----------



## zerokool_3211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> It'll be guaranteed less than a set amount of dead/stuck pixels out of the box but most will say, no it's not worth the extra money for the pixel perfect versions. The vast majority of owners here have gotten perfect panels when buying the normal versions.
> Myself included, the two Crossovers I resold were pixel perfect but were not bought as. Hope it helps your decision in time


thanks for the reply....yeah that makes me feel better about getting the non pixel perfect ones


----------



## LReyes66

Didnt wanna make a new thread so thought id ask here.

Im in the market for a 1440p monitor but dont really want to spend over $400. I originally thought about the auria because its local and if I had problems id deal with a american warranties ... but decided that the fact id have to pay for tax and didnt really like the overall bulkyness, thought id give one of the korean monitors a try.

Which Crossover monitor / seller do yall recommend?


----------



## kossair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> *snip* *snip*


Why the hell would he want the faulty PCB back? That is so stupid, you shouldn't even consider about wasting your money with that.

I mean, you already paid for it. It's not your fault if the monitor was shipped with a dud board to begin with.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kossair*
> 
> Why the hell would he want the faulty PCB back? That is so stupid, you shouldn't even consider about wasting your money with that.
> 
> I mean, you already paid for it. It's not your fault if the monitor was shipped with a dud board to begin with.


Probably because the company who sells the 27Q's sends it to the manufacture of the video board kit by Digitalwave and gets their new revisions for replacements. That is exactly what our company does too. If a board, psu, lcd panel, ts controller, hdd, memory, etc. fails we need the failed hardware back because usually manufactures have a 1-3 year warranty which we RMA and get a free replacement.


----------



## derfer

AW didn't ask for the board.


----------



## aixiaoqing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> There is a long cable (longest) which comes from the video board and connects to the osd (button board) If it's properly plugged in I'd say you have a faulty osd board or video board. The osd board receives/sends data signals to the video board which then sends to the led driver board. Which lowers leds brightness controlled by pwm. Not sure if the board has the chip or the display panel itself.


*May I know which one do I need to check for?*



Btw, I have talked to AW and they have asked me to send a video on how I adjust my brightness.
They say that I might have a faulty board and request me to check for defective cable just to make sure it's the board's fault.

There shouldn't be any defective cables right?


----------



## derfer

Well in theory a cable could be defective but unless it's visibly torn or burned I don't know how they expect you to confirm that without another one on hand.


----------



## Dabb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kossair*
> 
> Why the hell would he want the faulty PCB back? That is so stupid, you shouldn't even consider about wasting your money with that.
> 
> I mean, you already paid for it. It's not your fault if the monitor was shipped with a dud board to begin with.


That's true but to be honest, BCC has been more than fair as he sent me the replacement via express shipping and helped as much as he could.

It's like buying someone a drink for helping you really, that's the way I see it anyway.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> AW didn't ask for the board.


BBC is a different company their RMA policy may differ.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> *May I know which one do I need to check for?*
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I have talked to AW and they have asked me to send a video on how I adjust my brightness.
> They say that I might have a faulty board and request me to check for defective cable just to make sure it's the board's fault.
> 
> There shouldn't be any defective cables right?


Yes, like I said. The board could be bad or like they said the cable could be miss crimped. The osd button board should be near the top. Follow multi colored cable from the video board to the button board. You can test each wire on the cable for continuity with a multimeter, very easy to do.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derfer*
> 
> Well in theory a cable could be defective but unless it's visibly torn or burned I don't know how they expect you to confirm that without another one on hand.


Multimeter, I probably find about 1 miss crimped cable a month and they are all supplied by a cable manufacture or manufactured in house. They could have hand crimped the cables with a crimp tool and somehow it got past QC and shipped.


----------



## todda7

What's wrong with my Crossover 27Q?

http://depositfiles.com/files/060kh4hvn
http://depositfiles.com/files/n97kw9go5

Seller (Lighnspace) not replying to emails, so far









Using Dual-link DVI cable, power cable connected straight to the wall-socket, Dual-monitor setup with other monitor working fine. The screen is 4 months old.

Thanks for the expertise


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> What's wrong with my Crossover 27Q?
> 
> http://depositfiles.com/files/060kh4hvn
> http://depositfiles.com/files/n97kw9go5
> 
> Seller (Lighnspace) not replying to emails, so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using Dual-link DVI cable, power cable connected straight to the wall-socket, Dual-monitor setup with other monitor working fine. The screen is 4 months old.
> 
> Thanks for the expertise


Please post pictures in the forum. Can you be more specific? Telling us that you have two monitors and one is not working doesn't give us enough information to troubleshoot. You will need to tell us what it is doing. When you turn the monitor on is there backlight, is there video, does it even power on(led power light)? What video card or video output device are you using? Have you tried connecting the non working monitor to the known working DVI (video card) port or vice versa?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> What's wrong with my Crossover 27Q?
> 
> http://depositfiles.com/files/060kh4hvn
> http://depositfiles.com/files/n97kw9go5
> 
> Seller (Lighnspace) not replying to emails, so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using Dual-link DVI cable, power cable connected straight to the wall-socket, Dual-monitor setup with other monitor working fine. The screen is 4 months old.
> 
> Thanks for the expertise


Sorry I'm not going to download from some dodgy site.


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Sorry I'm not going to download from some dodgy site.


Depositefiles is a perfectly legitament site with a moderate amount of ads and whatnot on its pages. I download from there all the time. Here is a link to the webutation report.

http://www.webutation.net/go/review/depositfiles.com


----------



## todda7

These videos should provide some information about the artifacts:




(Link in case video is not loading) 







(Link in case video is not loading) 




As you can see, the image is distorted and flickering wildly. It is also possible to observe that the screen is divided into 4x3 sections.
Sometimes it helps to turn the screen off and on again, sometimes not.
Other times the screen just shows random pixel colors etc, also flickering. There is no problem with the backlight.

The screen is connected to a nVidia 560 TI graphics card. I have tried switching the DVI port. I have also tried switching the DVI-cable.

The reason I am pretty sure the screen is failing and not the video card, is that
1) The other screen works fine using the same DVI-cable and DVI-port
2) The artifacts have been coming more and more often. First it was maybe once a week, now it happens every five minutes


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> These videos should provide some information about the artifacts:
> 
> As you can see, the image is distorted and flickering wildly. It is also possible to observe that the screen is divided into 4x3 sections.
> Sometimes it helps to turn the screen off and on again, sometimes not.
> Other times the screen just shows random pixel colors etc, also flickering. There is no problem with the backlight.
> 
> The screen is connected to a nVidia 560 TI graphics card. I have tried switching the DVI port. I have also tried switching the DVI-cable.
> 
> The reason I am pretty sure the screen is failing and not the video card, is that
> 1) The other screen works fine using the same DVI-cable and DVI-port
> 2) The artifacts have been coming more and more often. First it was maybe once a week, now it happens every five minutes


Ask for a replacement. Did you drop or damage the monitors by any chance? Did you check the refresh rate and other settings?


----------



## todda7

Refresh rate is 60 Hz and the monitor have been stationary since arrival and functioning fine for months.

Unfortunately, the seller (LightnSpace) has not been replying neither on Ebay or by email.

Do you have any idea what part is broken, and where I could get a new one?


----------



## Delphiwizard

Just wanted to mention here that i will be trying to swap the dvi pcb and Tcon pcb in the crossover with custom ones soon.
The monitor has issues i posted about 6 months ago in this post , i hope it will fix the issue.


----------



## darren456

Should I buy one of these monitors seems like a real gamble


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> These videos should provide some information about the artifacts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Link in case video is not loading)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Link in case video is not loading)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the image is distorted and flickering wildly. It is also possible to observe that the screen is divided into 4x3 sections.
> Sometimes it helps to turn the screen off and on again, sometimes not.
> Other times the screen just shows random pixel colors etc, also flickering. There is no problem with the backlight.
> 
> The screen is connected to a nVidia 560 TI graphics card. I have tried switching the DVI port. I have also tried switching the DVI-cable.
> 
> The reason I am pretty sure the screen is failing and not the video card, is that
> 1) The other screen works fine using the same DVI-cable and DVI-port
> 2) The artifacts have been coming more and more often. First it was maybe once a week, now it happens every five minutes


Ok so you have ruled out the video card and DVI cable. It looks like either a back light issue(flickering), faulty LVDS cable or the video board is malfunctioning. First thing I would check is the LED driver board if you have REV 00 contact a reseller and get the new REV board. Look for discoloration on the back of the PCB and at the mosfet. If it passes the visual inspection then I would test the output of your power supply. It should be 23.6Vdc +/- 10%. If it tests as good then I would check and make sure the LVDS video cable is plugged in properly at the panel and at the video board output. Also make sure that each pin is properly locked into the connector housings. I have seen LVDS cables get unplugged slightly either by vibrations or simply dropping the monitor. This can cause the panel to flicker since the low voltage signals have a intermittent contact. Also it can cause video issues(noise) where there are artifacts and improper pixel colors. There's really no way to test the video board without having another one on hand to swap in. The only thing I can think of is doing a visual inspection on all input and output cables making sure they are all properly seated and plugged in. You could test each cable with a multimeter to make sure the wires are crimped correctly and you could use it to test the dc output of the led driver board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> Refresh rate is 60 Hz and the monitor have been stationary since arrival and functioning fine for months.
> 
> Unfortunately, the seller (LightnSpace) has not been replying neither on Ebay or by email.
> 
> Do you have any idea what part is broken, and where I could get a new one?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darren456*
> 
> Should I buy one of these monitors seems like a real gamble


99% of the time, the Korean S-IPS monitors do not have defects (other than the standard 1-2 dead pixels but all other monitor companies including Dell, Samsung, LG, etc have these flaws).

So there is minimal gamble or risk.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> 99% of the time, the Korean S-IPS monitors do not have defects (other than the standard 1-2 dead pixels but all other monitor companies including Dell, Samsung, LG, etc have these flaws).
> 
> So there is minimal gamble or risk.


Let's not kid ourselves.

About 1 in 7 monitors have _some_ defect of some sort. About 3 in 100 have a serious defect of some sort. You have about an 87% chance of getting a good one without any headaches, 10% chance of something being somewhat off but still useable, and 3% chance you get major headaches and dealing with overseas shipping and annoyance.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Let's not kid ourselves.
> 
> About 1 in 7 monitors have _some_ defect of some sort. About 3 in 100 have a serious defect of some sort. You have about an 87% chance of getting a good one without any headaches, 10% chance of something being somewhat off but still useable, and 3% chance you get major headaches and dealing with overseas shipping and annoyance.


Every monitor I have bought (including Dell, LG, Samsung, Viewsonic, etc) had some flaws. Mostly backlight bleeding and 1-2 dead pixels.

Yes 100% of the monitors I have bought had some sort of defects.

But these defects are negligible. Trust me, there is no such thing as a monitor with no defects.


----------



## todda7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> First thing I would check is the LED driver board if you have REV 00 contact a reseller and get the new REV board. Look for discoloration on the back of the PCB and at the mosfet. If it passes the visual inspection then I would test the output of your power supply. It should be 23.6Vdc +/- 10%. If it tests as good then I would check and make sure the LVDS video cable is plugged in properly at the panel and at the video board output. Also make sure that each pin is properly locked into the connector housings. I have seen LVDS cables get unplugged slightly either by vibrations or simply dropping the monitor. This can cause the panel to flicker since the low voltage signals have a intermittent contact. Also it can cause video issues(noise) where there are artifacts and improper pixel colors. There's really no way to test the video board without having another one on hand to swap in. The only thing I can think of is doing a visual inspection on all input and output cables making sure they are all properly seated and plugged in. You could test each cable with a multimeter to make sure the wires are crimped correctly and you could use it to test the dc output of the led driver board.


If there was something wrong with the backlight, why would there sometimes be image distortions?
Power supply: 24.9 Vdc
LED driver board DC output: 25.0 Vdc (tested the pins where the backlight connector should be)
None of the PCB's looks discolored.
The cables all look neat and properly connected. I only tested the cable between the LED-driver board and the video board though; I found it quite hard to remove the LVDS cable.




Thanks again for your help, anything more I could check before screwing this thing back together?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> If there was something wrong with the backlight, why would there sometimes be image distortions?
> Power supply: 24.9 Vdc
> LED driver board DC output: 25.0 Vdc (tested the pins where the backlight connector should be)
> None of the PCB's looks discolored.
> The cables all look neat and properly connected. I only tested the cable between the LED-driver board and the video board though; I found it quite hard to remove the LVDS cable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help, anything more I could check before screwing this thing back together?


The power supply output seems a bit high. Have you tested the working monitors power supply or swapped? It looks like you have the new REV led driver board. To remove the lvds connector you use your finger nails on each side. At the board is most difficult but it will wiggle out pulling one end at a time. The video board looks good from the pictures. Since you have two monitors I would swap power supplies first, next swap video boards, lastly the panel. If you have one working monitor it will be very easy to narrow down the malfunctioning part since monitors consist of a lcd panel, inverter or led driver board and video board. I'm not sure how much time you have to troubleshoot but thats what I would do next. When you find out what part is bad contact your seller and give him a full description of what the monitor is doing and what you did to fix it. Usually if you do all the troubleshooting yourself they will send you a new replacement part since they saved money by not having to pay a technician to troubleshoot and diagnose the problem.


----------



## skyn3t

can you guys share a color profile for crossover 27 IPS


----------



## R00TKILL

I have a hard decision to make, which monitor should I pick?
The Crossover 27Q LED
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-Perfect-Pixel-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/120926762189?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbf4cd

The new and just released:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-27inch-PC-MONITOR-/130921768588?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b8ba68c


I know nothing of the new monitor except it pretty much the same thing as the original crossover with the new apple like bezel. I was told by Accessories Whole that it would be released soon so I waited to see what it looks like I can tell that I wont like the stand and that's going to have to be replaced with this eventually if I go that route:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824185021


What do you guys think?


----------



## R00TKILL

I seen some info on the color profile on this thread somewhere
http://www.overclock.net/t/1332252/review-crossover-led-p-2560x1440p-monitors


----------



## R00TKILL

I'm going to show more picture's of this new monitor its real slim.





You can see how that stand would fit just perfect on the back of this monitor.


----------



## todda7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> The power supply output seems a bit high. Have you tested the working monitors power supply or swapped? It looks like you have the new REV led driver board. To remove the lvds connector you use your finger nails on each side. At the board is most difficult but it will wiggle out pulling one end at a time. The video board looks good from the pictures. Since you have two monitors I would swap power supplies first, next swap video boards, lastly the panel. If you have one working monitor it will be very easy to narrow down the malfunctioning part since monitors consist of a lcd panel, inverter or led driver board and video board. I'm not sure how much time you have to troubleshoot but thats what I would do next. When you find out what part is bad contact your seller and give him a full description of what the monitor is doing and what you did to fix it. Usually if you do all the troubleshooting yourself they will send you a new replacement part since they saved money by not having to pay a technician to troubleshoot and diagnose the problem.


My other monitor is not a Crossover 27Q


----------



## brightbus

Wow that new model looks sexy. My qnix look super bulky (like they didn't before







) by comparison.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00TKILL*
> 
> I'm going to show more picture's of this new monitor its real slim.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see how that stand would fit just perfect on the back of this monitor.


Is that the new model of the CrossOver 27Q LED.

Excellent metal build quality. Looks very nice.


----------



## todda7

Update:

Pieced my screen back together, it has been running for 8 hours straight no problems! Which is definetly longer than before.

Probably a bad connection!

Thanks Craigaaaaaaa for your help


----------



## R00TKILL

Well I'm going to pull the trigger on this new Cross8ver, I Guess its pretty new and there no reviews out yet so I'll take the plunge:thumb:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-27inch-PC-MONITOR-/130921768588?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b8ba68c
When It arrives I'll follow up with a review.


----------



## dutchm

Anybody know how to fix the screen fading to black issue? Ordered a 27Q LED from dreamseller and the screen randomly just fades to black. Seems to happen like once a week so far.. Turning the monitor off and back on restores the display only to have it fade back to black almost immediately. I'm guessing the fix is to replace three pcb board, but which one? The board with the actual dvi connection attached?


----------



## todda7

Does the backlight also turn off, or is it black with backlight? Does the power-led turn red?


----------



## pjd2011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00TKILL*
> 
> Well I'm going to pull the trigger on this new Cross8ver, I Guess its pretty new and there no reviews out yet so I'll take the plunge:thumb:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-27inch-PC-MONITOR-/130921768588?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b8ba68c
> When It arrives I'll follow up with a review.


This looks beautiful! I've been eyeing the 2720mdp for a few weeks now. If the 2735AMG had multiple inputs I would be all over it!

Does the 2720mdp have a metal casing (I read somewhere it was plastic)? Do I need to even bother asking for a green PCB from AW (seems to all be green now after reading)?


----------



## dutchm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> Does the backlight also turn off, or is it black with backlight? Does the power-led turn red?


Backlight stays on, power-led is blue. I can still use keyboard. Screen looks like it gets consumed by black from top to bottom in 1-3 seconds


----------



## pjd2011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00TKILL*
> 
> I have a hard decision to make, which monitor should I pick?
> The Crossover 27Q LED
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-Perfect-Pixel-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-LG-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/120926762189?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbf4cd
> 
> The new and just released:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-27inch-PC-MONITOR-/130921768588?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b8ba68c
> 
> 
> I know nothing of the new monitor except it pretty much the same thing as the original crossover with the new apple like bezel. I was told by Accessories Whole that it would be released soon so I waited to see what it looks like I can tell that I wont like the stand and that's going to have to be replaced with this eventually if I go that route:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824185021
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


I just noticed this and it might be easily overlooked as I've never heard of this resolution. *2560x1080!*


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> My other monitor is not a Crossover 27Q


I was under the impression you have two.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *todda7*
> 
> Update:
> 
> Pieced my screen back together, it has been running for 8 hours straight no problems! Which is definetly longer than before.
> 
> Probably a bad connection!
> 
> Thanks Craigaaaaaaa for your help


No problem. Definitely could have been a loose connection. Hope the problem doesn't come back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchm*
> 
> Anybody know how to fix the screen fading to black issue? Ordered a 27Q LED from dreamseller and the screen randomly just fades to black. Seems to happen like once a week so far.. Turning the monitor off and back on restores the display only to have it fade back to black almost immediately. I'm guessing the fix is to replace three pcb board, but which one? The board with the actual dvi connection attached?


How are your power options setup in windows? Could it be you have turn off monitor after a short period of time or DIM the display after a certain amount of minutes? When this happens is the LED blue or RED? If its RED you are simply losing video signal.If it BLUE with backlight it sounds like the display is set to DIM in the power options, if its connected to a laptop. If you lost complete internal video (video out of video board lvds) then it should be FULL backlight on pure white. If its BLUE and there is no backlight its most likely the mosfet on the led driver board has failed. Take the monitor apart and if you have the REV 00 led driver board you should see brownish discoloration on the back of the pcb also the mosfet will look burnt or damaged. If so then you will need to take pictures and send them to your seller. If it is still under warranty they will send you a new green PCB which is the new REV.

Does your panel look like the below picture? Which is usually a lvds cable or video board problem.


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjd2011*
> 
> I just noticed this and it might be easily overlooked as I've never heard of this resolution. *2560x1080!*


I think that's a mistake. Other places in the listing it says 2560x1440. Could message the seller to be positive though.


----------



## dutchm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> How are your power options setup in windows? Could it be you have turn off monitor after a short period of time or DIM the display after a certain amount of minutes? When this happens is the LED blue or RED? If its RED you are simply losing video signal.If it BLUE with backlight it sounds like the display is set to DIM in the power options, if its connected to a laptop. If you lost complete internal video (video out of video board lvds) then it should be FULL backlight on pure white. If its BLUE and there is no backlight its most likely the mosfet on the led driver board has failed. Take the monitor apart and if you have the REV 00 led driver board you should see brownish discoloration on the back of the pcb also the mosfet will look burnt or damaged. If so then you will need to take pictures and send them to your seller. If it is still under warranty they will send you a new green PCB which is the new REV.
> 
> Does your panel look like the below picture? Which is usually a lvds cable or video board problem.


It's definitely not the power options, I have both set to never turn off or sleep. I gave more info above, I think you might have missed it. The backlight stays on, the power led is blue. I can still use the keyboard but just can't see anything. It's not connected to a laptop. When it happens it looks like the screen is being consumed by black in a matter of seconds. It starts at the top and goes to the bottom. When I turn the monitor off and turn it back on it will immediately do the fade to black thing again. When I leave the monitor off for a few hours it seems to work again for days.. very strange. I'll have to try taking it apart tomorrow


----------



## Caples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjd2011*
> 
> I just noticed this and it might be easily overlooked as I've never heard of this resolution. *2560x1080!*


It's a cinema display. 21:9.

I'll be looking at the 290HD this weekend. I'll see if I can also get some hands-on time with the other case revisions.


----------



## R00TKILL

I can assure you the ★CROSSOVER★ BLACK TUNE 2735AMG IPS LED 27" LG H-IPS 2560X1440 27inch PC MONITOR
Is as described 2560x1440 "16:9" Aspect Ratio If you just look at here's a comparison with a new 21:9 vs 16:9


----------



## R00TKILL

I would hold off on the 21:9 monitors for a while and see if they catch on its in an early stage in its life and with that comes less support for games and possibly other software. On the other hand if you watch tons of movies on your monitor and use video/music editing software I could see these monitors working out very nicely.


----------



## kieth89

Ok, after looking at the catleaps, then the shimians, then the Qnix, I have finally found the crossover and think it is the one I want. However, I don't know who to buy it from. Do you guys have any suggestions?
Also these are all glossy right? Should I stay with the older tried and true model? I kind of want to just because it is more established (and I need to purchase a monitor rather quickly, so can't wait around much).
Lastly is there any with hdmi, dvi, and that also have pivot and height adjustment stands?

Thanks for any help, have already went through three domestic budget monitors and they all were pretty crappy..Hopefully this one ends my streak of bad luck.


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieth89*
> 
> Ok, after looking at the catleaps, then the shimians, then the Qnix, I have finally found the crossover and think it is the one I want. However, I don't know who to buy it from. Do you guys have any suggestions?
> Also these are all glossy right? Should I stay with the older tried and true model? I kind of want to just because it is more established (and I need to purchase a monitor rather quickly, so can't wait around much).
> Lastly is there any with hdmi, dvi, and that also have pivot and height adjustment stands?
> 
> Thanks for any help, have already went through three domestic budget monitors and they all were pretty crappy..Hopefully this one ends my streak of bad luck.


Accessorieswhole on Ebay is the one that most people on here recommend.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieth89*
> 
> Ok, after looking at the catleaps, then the shimians, then the Qnix, I have finally found the crossover and think it is the one I want. However, I don't know who to buy it from. Do you guys have any suggestions?
> Also these are all glossy right? Should I stay with the older tried and true model? I kind of want to just because it is more established (and I need to purchase a monitor rather quickly, so can't wait around much).
> Lastly is there any with hdmi, dvi, and that also have pivot and height adjustment stands?
> 
> Thanks for any help, have already went through three domestic budget monitors and they all were pretty crappy..Hopefully this one ends my streak of bad luck.


accessorieswhole, BCC, hulustar, etc are all reliable sellers.


----------



## pjd2011

Has anyone gone through AW's Paypal account directly? Usually I ask sellers if they're willing to do this because it saves me money and them. They offered me a 8% discount on the 2720mdp. I should still be protected by Paypal so i'm thinking about going this route.


----------



## R00TKILL

I just pulled the trigger on the CrossOver BLACK TUNE 2735AMG IPS LED PC Monitor 6/4/2013 Estimated delivery: Fri. Jun. 7 - Tue. Jun. 11
I'll be doing a review stay tuned








http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-27inch-PC-MONITOR-/130921768588?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b8ba68c


----------



## x3Infamous

That's sexy


----------



## darren456

that one is nice really thin, I just want the cheapest one i can get that has the best PQ witch one would that be??


----------



## Dabb

Wow the new design is very sleek. Would love to see a real shot/video of it rather than the promo images though because it always makes it look 1000x better haha.


----------



## R00TKILL

I'll be sure to post some pictures when I get my paws on it.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00TKILL*
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on the CrossOver BLACK TUNE 2735AMG IPS LED PC Monitor 6/4/2013 Estimated delivery: Fri. Jun. 7 - Tue. Jun. 11
> I'll be doing a review stay tuned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-27inch-PC-MONITOR-/130921768588?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7b8ba68c


Looks so sexy and classy.


----------



## darren456

Can anyone tell me how this crossover compares to a dell ultra sharp led I just got that new one from dell and its not any better than my HP?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darren456*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how this crossover compares to a dell ultra sharp led I just got that new one from dell and its not any better than my HP?


Crossover:
90% of the image quality of the dell
50% of the build quality of the dell
10% of the warranty quality of the dell.

35% of the list price of the Dell.

Assuming a U2713hm.


----------



## darren456

I got the 24 inch dell


----------



## RSMJR87

Not sure if dell monitors have glossy screens I think they are all mostly matte.
What do you intend to use the monitor for?
Your most likely running 1920x1200 at 60Hz 6ms
These Korean Monitors are High Resolution you need a decent GPU and Dual Link DVI to get the most out of them.
You can get some models that are Matte though most are Glossy.
2560x1080(21:9) 29" >5ms at 60hz
2560x1440 (16:9) 27">6ms at 60hz
2560x1600(16:10) 30">5ms at 60hz
I have seen some of the 16:9 monitors sell under $300 but I would not buy from some sellers I trust Accessories Whole they have excellent QA and Customer Service.
There are some models that are overclocked I believe to achieve close to 120hz The Catleaps at http://www.120hz.biz/
(Remember that when ever you overclock your stressing the hardware and this could lead to a shorter life or failure.)

If I were in your shoes I would first find out if you like Matte vs. Glossy Screens and go from there. Some Flavors.


----------



## Koehler

The CrossOver 27Q LED looks much better than the Yamakasi.


----------



## Mesima

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q LED looks much better than the Yamakasi.


I'm glad I wasn't the only one thinking this! I was going to pick up a Yamakasi but they're so damn ugly...Now I'm leaning towards CrossOver more and more vs Shimian.


----------



## dutchm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchm*
> 
> It's definitely not the power options, I have both set to never turn off or sleep. I gave more info above, I think you might have missed it. The backlight stays on, the power led is blue. I can still use the keyboard but just can't see anything. It's not connected to a laptop. When it happens it looks like the screen is being consumed by black in a matter of seconds. It starts at the top and goes to the bottom. When I turn the monitor off and turn it back on it will immediately do the fade to black thing again. When I leave the monitor off for a few hours it seems to work again for days.. very strange. I'll have to try taking it apart tomorrow


Can anyone help?


----------



## darren456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSMJR87*
> 
> Not sure if dell monitors have glossy screens I think they are all mostly matte.
> What do you intend to use the monitor for?
> Your most likely running 1920x1200 at 60Hz 6ms
> These Korean Monitors are High Resolution you need a decent GPU and Dual Link DVI to get the most out of them.
> You can get some models that are Matte though most are Glossy.
> 2560x1080(21:9) 29" >5ms at 60hz
> 2560x1440 (16:9) 27">6ms at 60hz
> 2560x1600(16:10) 30">5ms at 60hz
> I have seen some of the 16:9 monitors sell under $300 but I would not buy from some sellers I trust Accessories Whole they have excellent QA and Customer Service.
> There are some models that are overclocked I believe to achieve close to 120hz The Catleaps at http://www.120hz.biz/
> (Remember that when ever you overclock your stressing the hardware and this could lead to a shorter life or failure.)
> 
> If I were in your shoes I would first find out if you like Matte vs. Glossy Screens and go from there. Some Flavors.


all my Monitors have been matte but i do like the glossy my laptop has this, i have seen the apple monitors that are glossy and have been amazed how good they look


----------



## Spartan F8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darren456*
> 
> all my Monitors have been matte but i do like the glossy my laptop has this, i have seen the apple monitors that are glossy and have been amazed how good they look


I have a glossy Crossover and a Glossy Qnix. If i set them next to a matte display it bugs the heck out of me. Has to be a dark room though. I have seen monitors that are "light matte" and some do actually have near invisible matte finish but others have looked no different than my MASSIVELY matte dell monitor.


----------



## RSMJR87

Glossy Screens FTW they offer more detail in colors and because of that you get a crisp picture, I have no issue with glare just use curtains/blinds, turn the lights off and positions your computer on the wall with less reflection. If you do all of these things you wont notice any reflection.


----------



## ulua

just got my 27Q in the mail! no dead/stuck pixels or bleeding, screen looks amazing....my 27" 1080P looks slightly ridiculous next to it!


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dutchm*
> 
> Can anyone help?


Take it apart first and inspect the LED driver board, it sounds like yours is failing. If the blue led is lit then there is video being received at the video board and outputting that video through the LVDS to the panel. So you have video but no backlight at all. This makes it impossible to see the video. If the led was red then the video signal is dropped completely. Cable being unplugged, driver auto detect failure, hardware issue with laptop outputting video or on the panel side etc.


----------



## darren456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ulua*
> 
> just got my 27Q in the mail! no dead/stuck pixels or bleeding, screen looks amazing....my 27" 1080P looks slightly ridiculous next to it!


Great can you show me link of one you bought?


----------



## darren456

i am confused on so many 27q on ebay from seller accessorieswhole.

can someone tell me if there is any difference in all these monitors they all have same specs but go from $399 to $599 ?


----------



## todda7

They have different inputs and stands, and some I believe also has speakers. I have the cheapest model, and can not complain about the stand, nor the fact that it only has Dual-Link DVI input.


----------



## viralbug

Hello everyone. Just wanna drop in here to say I own a CrossOver 27Q LED.
I got this beauty about a couple of months ago. It has definitely been my best upgrade till date, just simply love it. Have no problems with it at all.

The size and screen estate was ridiculous for me considering I upgraded from a measly 19" 1440x900 TN panel.


----------



## barcode71

What's the difference in picture quality between the 27Q or 2720MDP? Is there any advantage in getting the 2720MDP over the 27Q? If I don't need all the input connections the 2720MDP offers is the 27Q just as good?

Planning on purchasing soon, within the next 30mins.


----------



## RSMJR87

yes it is the same panel in fact. If all you are looking for is the 27" 2560x1440 IPS LED Monitors then Crossover is really the way to go, You just need to decide if you want a pivoting stand or not. There is also a tempered glass model vs the original glossy screen. And there is always the Perfect Pixel Versions you could buy at a higher price this is a Guarantee that Accessories Whole is Famous for.

Here is the Cheapest Crossover 27Q LED that I have seen on AW, I'm not sure why they have identical ones with higher prices I would like to know this myself.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/121051874998?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c2f4106b6

The Crossover 27Q LED has the strongest build quality with it being enclosed with Aluminum If you don't need extra Inputs and built in speakers this monitor is solid and has a great stand.

This is the Newer Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG H-ISP LED it is also a 27" 2560x1440 Its identical to the Crossover 27Q LED display but with a new Enclosure(Also Aluminum) and Bezel. This monitor is very thin(H-ISP) and sexy looking The stand looks







to me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130921768588
This is the Monitor that I recently purchased I will be doing a review on it next week hopefully.


----------



## barcode71

I just placed an order for a pixel perfect 27Q with Pivot for $439 from green-sum.


----------



## user33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSMJR87*
> 
> yes it is the same panel in fact. If all you are looking for is the 27" 2560x1440 IPS LED Monitors then Crossover is really the way to go, You just need to decide if you want a pivoting stand or not. There is also a tempered glass model vs the original glossy screen. And there is always the Perfect Pixel Versions you could buy at a higher price this is a Guarantee that Accessories Whole is Famous for.
> 
> Here is the Cheapest Crossover 27Q LED that I have seen on AW, I'm not sure why they have identical ones with higher prices I would like to know this myself.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/121051874998?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1c2f4106b6
> 
> The Crossover 27Q LED has the strongest build quality with it being enclosed with Aluminum If you don't need extra Inputs and built in speakers this monitor is solid and has a great stand.
> 
> This is the Newer Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG H-ISP LED it is also a 27" 2560x1440 Its identical to the Crossover 27Q LED display but with a new Enclosure(Also Aluminum) and Bezel. This monitor is very thin(H-ISP) and sexy looking The stand looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to me.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130921768588
> This is the Monitor that I recently purchased I will be doing a review on it next week hopefully.


From the picture, the bezel seems thicker than the 27Q LED model


----------



## barcode71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *user33*
> 
> From the picture, the bezel seems thicker than the 27Q LED model


Really? I think it looks thinner than the 27Q. I just don't like how the newer model's bezel is not uniform black.


----------



## RSMJR87

Yeah I feel ya, I was kind of disappointing I would like to see a slimmer bezel all around, I cant understand who designs these things. On the other hand Its still a beautiful monitor the bezel doesn't look huge and I am not planning on using more than one monitor so it doesn't effect me at all. The stand looks cheap to me but I will have to check that out when It arrives.
6/07/2013 - Friday
10:06 pm - In transit - INCHEON KR
8:42 pm - In transit - INCHEON KR
7:10 pm - Left FedEx origin facility - BUCHEON-SI KR
6:33 pm - Picked up - BUCHEON-SI KR
1:45 pm - International shipment release - Import - ANCHORAGE, AK
1:04 pm - Arrived at FedEx location - ANCHORAGE, AK
2:03 am - Shipment information sent to FedEx
Estimated delivery :
Wed 6/12/2013 4:30 pm


----------



## RSMJR87

Has anyone tried this stand?> DoubleSight DS-130STA Display Stand
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824185021

or
V7 DS1S-1N Desktop Monitor Stand
http://www.amazon.com/V7-DS1S-1N-Desktop-Monitor-Monitors/dp/B0056L9VIK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_5


----------



## aixiaoqing

Hello guys!

Is there anyway to replace the ribbon cable in the monitor of 2730md?

Hope to get an answer.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> Hello guys!
> 
> Is there anyway to replace the ribbon cable in the monitor of 2730md?
> 
> Hope to get an answer.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Why are you replacing and which cable? There a several cables, lvds, osd board, led driver board output and video board output to led driver board, and speaker output if it has speakers....


----------



## Zrob0

Hey guys, looking to buy a Crossover.

Can anyone tell me the difference between these two, and why one is cheaper than the other by a little bit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-2560x1440-27-QHD-S-IPS-HDMI-Speaker-Monitor-/120901146842?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c264518da


----------



## barcode71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zrob0*
> 
> Hey guys, looking to buy a Crossover.
> 
> Can anyone tell me the difference between these two, and why one is cheaper than the other by a little bit?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-High-Resolutio-n-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-Dual-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/110867210291?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0336033
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-2560x1440-27-QHD-S-IPS-HDMI-Speaker-Monitor-/120901146842?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c264518da


If you look at the seller's page everything is pretty self explanatory.

The 27Q LED vs 27Q LED-P, the LED-P stands for Pivot, one pivots and one doesn't.

If you looked at the pictures on the 2730MDP GOLD, it has more input options and built-in speakers vs 27Q model which only has DVI-D and no speakers.


----------



## aixiaoqing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Why are you replacing and which cable? There a several cables, lvds, osd board, led driver board output and video board output to led driver board, and speaker output if it has speakers....


I wanna replace the silver flat ribbon cable.

The one that shows the display.

Not sure what is that though.

Because mine is defective. Due to my mistake


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> I wanna replace the silver flat ribbon cable.
> 
> The one that shows the display.
> 
> Not sure what is that though.
> 
> Because mine is defective. Due to my mistake


Its called the LVDS cable.


----------



## aixiaoqing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Its called the LVDS cable.


Oh I see.

So, Is there any way to replace it?

Also, could you tell me what are all the cables?

Thanks for clarifying


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Just wanted to mention here that i will be trying to swap the dvi pcb and Tcon pcb in the crossover with custom ones soon.
> The monitor has issues i posted about 6 months ago in this post , i hope it will fix the issue.


Well i finally managed to get this monitor working with a custom pcb, glad i could save it from the recycle bin.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> Oh I see.
> 
> So, Is there any way to replace it?
> 
> Also, could you tell me what are all the cables?
> 
> Thanks for clarifying


Well I don't have the spec sheet for that video board or can see where the cables all input. I have an idea of the output connectors on the board.


----------



## RSMJR87

Hey guys I received the NEW! Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG IPS LED Today and here's a Link with my review.
http://www.overclock.net/products/crossover-black-tune-2735amg-ips-led


----------



## x3Infamous

Have you been able to test it if its Overclockable?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3Infamous*
> 
> Have you been able to test it if its Overclockable?


No unmodded CrossOver monitor is overclockable.

Edit: Mod = you bought a $200 oveclockable PCB and installed it yourself.


----------



## RSMJR87

Yeah I would need to switch out the PCB, There are screws on the back of the monitor to remove the back panel so in theory it could be done if you could find a 120hz 2B PCB that is.
In fact if anyone finds these leave a post.


----------



## RSMJR87

I was just looking at my EVGA precision software and noticed a setting called Pixel Clock Control Properties were you can overclock your refresh rate my default Pixel Clock 243.8MHz at Refresh Rate 60Hz this can be set as high as 560MHz/139Hz

My monitor is a 60Hz monitor but the website CrossLCD http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2735AMG
shows the specs Synchronous frequency Horizontal Frequency 30 ~ 81kHz Vertical Frequency 56 ~ 75Hz

Now I'm guessing you could overclock your monitor by a small margin but it would not be worth burning out you PCB.


----------



## darkwarr

to all, i have read many pages here in the crossover thread, but have not read about an over sharpening of the image... i'm about to buy two of these crossovers but have observe an over sharpening on the images when viewed, my friend has one of these and i do agree that the colors are just same with my apple 23"... but there's an oversharpening i see on some image compared to when viewed on my apple 23" and asuspb278q, this is important to me because i'll be using this for editing pictures...

anyone can confirm that theres some oversharpening? i think this is because or maybe of the glossy panel....


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x3Infamous*
> 
> Have you been able to test it if its Overclockable?


I have the CrossOver 27Q LED and I can tell you that it's not overclockable.

Not that overclocking is essential for me anyway.

I play FPS games like BF3 on it and it's smooth and the image quality is extremely sharp and crisp.

The build quality is also absolutely amazing on this monitor.

I highly recommend it.


----------



## Taffenh

Hey guys, got my Crossover 27Q LED-P two months ago from allkillsale.
Im using a ATI 5850 graphics-card, which supports dual-link, however, when i start up the pc the monitor shows only its backlight. No image at all.
The powerbrick led is green, and the monitor led is blue.
The original PCB was blue. Then he shipped me a green PCB, which didn't add up with the screwholes. Then he shipped me a blue PCB again, same as the original one!

Here are som Pics and vids of my issue:







The original blue PCB, I also recieved a new one like this yesterday.


first PCB replacement he shipped.


----------



## WesFenlon

I got a Crossover 27Q LED-P largely due to the posts in this thread and a lot of detailed comparisons to the Catleaps and other monitors. Really love it, and I got a flawless display. I do get a bit of a buzz, but I'm hoping to open it up sometime soon and put some tape or epoxy on the PCB and get rid of that sound!


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WesFenlon*
> 
> I got a Crossover 27Q LED-P largely due to the posts in this thread and a lot of detailed comparisons to the Catleaps and other monitors. Really love it, and I got a flawless display. I do get a bit of a buzz, but I'm hoping to open it up sometime soon and put some tape or epoxy on the PCB and get rid of that sound!


Yes I agree. The CrossOver is really excellent







.


----------



## RSMJR87

Word.


----------



## barcode71

I received my Crossover 27Q LED-P yesterday. I purchased the Pixel Perfect model. However&#8230;



I have 3 stuck pixels in the center of the screen, according Green-Sum's (eBay seller) diagram. I emailed the seller and still waiting on a response.

What should I do? Ask for a refund of the price difference between the standard model and the pixel perfect model or ship it back to Korea?


----------



## RSMJR87

Fist of all I am sorry to hear about your unfortunate experience, If it were me I would see if there going to pay for shipping or not and then make a decision there. 3 pixels isn't much but dead center is really an eye sore, I would probably send it back and buy one from Accessories Whole if you do your research they are number one and have the best perfect pixel warranty (What I mean by this is they actually send you one with perfect pixel and if it turns out to have one they take care of you by giving you money back per pixel or complete refund). In fact Accessories Whole has an Authorized Dealer Certificate from Crossover and I think they are the only one with this on Ebay.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barcode71*
> 
> I received my Crossover 27Q LED-P yesterday. I purchased the Pixel Perfect model. However&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> I have 3 stuck pixels in the center of the screen, according Green-Sum's (eBay seller) diagram. I emailed the seller and still waiting on a response.
> 
> What should I do? Ask for a refund of the price difference between the standard model and the pixel perfect model or ship it back to Korea?


Do not accept just a plain refund - that just encourages bad business practises. If they offer a refund and you're ok with the monitor, insist on an additional penalty on top of the price difference; perhaps double the "perfect pixel" price differential.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Do not accept just a plain refund


I agree, otherwise they can just ship normal untested monitors as perfect, then just refund the difference to the people who notice.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taffenh*
> 
> Hey guys, got my Crossover 27Q LED-P two months ago from allkillsale.
> Im using a ATI 5850 graphics-card, which supports dual-link, however, when i start up the pc the monitor shows only its backlight. No image at all.
> The powerbrick led is green, and the monitor led is blue.
> The original PCB was blue. Then he shipped me a green PCB, which didn't add up with the screwholes. Then he shipped me a blue PCB again, same as the original one!
> 
> Here are som Pics and vids of my issue:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original blue PCB, I also recieved a new one like this yesterday.
> 
> 
> first PCB replacement he shipped.


Have you tested it with another computers video output? Have you tested it with a different DVI cable?


----------



## blackhand

hello guys i currently plan on getting one of these monitors by next week only problem is im afraid my 5870 doesnt have enough juice. should i get the monitor then next paycheck upgrade my gpu?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhand*
> 
> hello guys i currently plan on getting one of these monitors by next week only problem is im afraid my 5870 doesnt have enough juice. should i get the monitor then next paycheck upgrade my gpu?


Depends what you're using it for.

If it's for gaming and you want to utilize the 1440p resolution, you can probably play strategy games on that resolution but not games like Battlefield 3. So yes in that case you should get a new graphics card.

If it's for web browsing and general computer use, you don't need a new graphics card. That's mostly controlled by processor and RAM.


----------



## silverfox1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhand*
> 
> hello guys i currently plan on getting one of these monitors by next week only problem is im afraid my 5870 doesnt have enough juice. should i get the monitor then next paycheck upgrade my gpu?


Dont know the rest of your current rig specs or your budget but i am also considering upgrading my video card to the below single GTX 770. Providing what i have researched a 650 watt P.S. should be sufficient to run this single card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130919

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127741

http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html

Regards,


----------



## RSMJR87

I have a question, I own the new Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG and I wanted to know if color profiles are meant for certain displays(proprietary) or could I use any profile that is 2560x1440?
I'm not sure how color profiles work , is there a popular or a best profile to use?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blackhand*
> 
> hello guys i currently plan on getting one of these monitors by next week only problem is im afraid my 5870 doesnt have enough juice. should i get the monitor then next paycheck upgrade my gpu?


5870 has plenty of graphical power for the crossover. It all depends on which games you play (if any) and what resolution.


----------



## Taffenh

Yes, I have tried another computer, and another DVI, but that wouldn't make any differance in this case. BEACUSE I found the silly solution..
Quite embarresing actually. I've checked that the cables are properly in place like 5 times, but every time I mounted the back-cover of the monitor the cable from the main board to the pixel matrix go disconnected.
So all I had to do was to use some wonderful tape and the babe was up and running!


----------



## Taffenh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Have you tested it with another computers video output? Have you tested it with a different DVI cable?


Yes, I have tried another computer, and another DVI, but that wouldn't make any differance in this case. BEACUSE I found the silly solution..
Quite embarresing actually. I've checked that the cables are properly in place like 5 times, but every time I mounted the back-cover of the monitor the cable from the main board to the pixel matrix go disconnected.
So all I had to do was to use some wonderful tape and the babe was up and running!


----------



## barcode71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RSMJR87*
> 
> Fist of all I am sorry to hear about your unfortunate experience, If it were me I would see if there going to pay for shipping or not and then make a decision there. 3 pixels isn't much but dead center is really an eye sore, I would probably send it back and buy one from Accessories Whole if you do your research they are number one and have the best perfect pixel warranty (What I mean by this is they actually send you one with perfect pixel and if it turns out to have one they take care of you by giving you money back per pixel or complete refund). In fact Accessories Whole has an Authorized Dealer Certificate from Crossover and I think they are the only one with this on Ebay.


The seller wants me to take a picture of the dead pixels. How am I supposed to get a good picture of a dead pixel on a 2560x1440 screen?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Do not accept just a plain refund - that just encourages bad business practises. If they offer a refund and you're ok with the monitor, insist on an additional penalty on top of the price difference; perhaps double the "perfect pixel" price differential.


I agree, I don't see any labeling on the box that indicates that it is a Pixel Perfect monitor. It seems they're just shipping out regular monitors as Pixel Perfect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> I agree, otherwise they can just ship normal untested monitors as perfect, then just refund the difference to the people who notice.


That's exactly what I'm thinking.

I'm going to take a picture of the box and everything like the seller (green-sum) requested and see what kind of solution he's willing to offer. I paid extra for a pixel perfect model with the intention to avoid exactly this.


----------



## Kentaro

Is the 27M LED out of production? Can't seem to find any on ebay.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kentaro*
> 
> Is the 27M LED out of production? Can't seem to find any on ebay.


Do you mean the CrossOver 27Q LED?


----------



## Kentaro

Has the model name changed? I was looking at the first post on this thread and there's this model listed: 27M LED (product page)


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kentaro*
> 
> Has the model name changed? I was looking at the first post on this thread and there's this model listed: 27M LED (product page)


Not sure of the origin of the 27M LED designation on that product page but it's all the info for the 27Q LED since in their product branch list on the left hand side there is no 27M only the 27MDx series.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taffenh*
> 
> Yes, I have tried another computer, and another DVI, but that wouldn't make any differance in this case. BEACUSE I found the silly solution..
> Quite embarresing actually. I've checked that the cables are properly in place like 5 times, but every time I mounted the back-cover of the monitor the cable from the main board to the pixel matrix go disconnected.
> So all I had to do was to use some wonderful tape and the babe was up and running!


The video boards LVDS cable got disconnected therefore no video was sent from the video board to the panel which causes backlight only. I usually rule out the easiest first then open the monitor up and investigate. Glad you found it.


----------



## Kentaro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Not sure of the origin of the 27M LED designation on that product page but it's all the info for the 27Q LED since in their product branch list on the left hand side there is no 27M only the 27MDx series.


Just noticed 27M in the thread title lol I think it exists/existed, it's a 27Q (white metal back) with multimedia inputs. Also mentioned here. You're right that it's not on their product branch making me think it's discontinued


----------



## doe3879

Any good idea on how to make the monitor looks better with PS3?
it only works on 720p and it does looks very jeggy without scaler. Since it's practically acting as a 27" 720P monitor at that point. Making it unbearable sitting close to the monitor.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doe3879*
> 
> Any good idea on how to make the monitor looks better with PS3?
> it only works on 720p and it does looks very jeggy without scaler. Since it's practically acting as a 27" 720P monitor at that point. Making it unbearable sitting close to the monitor.


You got the wrong monitor for your PS3. As far as I know, the way you have it now is the best it's gonna get with your PS3.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doe3879*
> 
> Any good idea on how to make the monitor looks better with PS3?
> it only works on 720p and it does looks very jeggy without scaler. Since it's practically acting as a 27" 720P monitor at that point. Making it unbearable sitting close to the monitor.


You need a monitor with a scaler to work with your PS3.

Besides console gaming is dead, why would you play on a PS3?


----------



## RSMJR87

I wouldn't say gaming consoles are dead there is always a market for them with kids and people with small hands







I just find it pointless







for those of us who own gaming a gaming PC. I think Play Stations in general are starting to make some really cool games that I would like to see available on PC, But you don't see me running to the nearest store to buy a PS or XBOX for that matter.


----------



## doe3879

as much I prefer and wish to play every game on my PC, that's just not an option sometimes.
I mostly wanted to play The Last of Us right now.


----------



## pjd2011

Ended up pulling the trigger on an AW 2720MDP as a Birthday present to myself. Should be here Thursday!!

Since I had been researching for a good three weeks I noticed AW changed their pictures for the 2720mdp's. I figured it was just a picture change but I also noticed this before I purchased. Anyone know of any recent updates?


----------



## pwspong

Anyone got a link to a power brick for the US that is compatible with the 27q


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> Anyone got a link to a power brick for the US that is compatible with the 27q


You can use the power brick it comes with and just switch out the power lead to a US compliant 3 prong with ground. Worked on my two crossovers.


----------



## Koehler

So what's the deal? Are the new CrossOver Black Tune monitors replacing the CrossOver 27Q LED?


----------



## pjd2011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjd2011*
> 
> Ended up pulling the trigger on an AW 2720MDP as a Birthday present to myself. Should be here Thursday!!
> 
> Since I had been researching for a good three weeks I noticed AW changed their pictures for the 2720mdp's. I figured it was just a picture change but I also noticed this before I purchased. Anyone know of any recent updates?


Ordered this Sunday evening and it was, again, projected to be here on Thursday from South Korea. Says it's already en route to my Ann Arbor address (Tuesday morning)!!


----------



## foxino

Hello guys
i m new.. nice to mee you all
i m looking for a 27 ips panel for games..
can u help me to make a choice (and if u can a good seller too)? i m kinda newbie on monitor. i have 2 770 jet stream atm as gpu
i usually play mmorpg but i would to play everything on these monitor fps too.
very thx for your time

Mirko


----------



## barcode71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> Hello guys
> i m new.. nice to mee you all
> i m looking for a 27 ips panel for games..
> can u help me to make a choice (and if u can a good seller too)? i m kinda newbie on monitor. i have 2 770 jet stream atm as gpu
> i usually play mmorpg but i would to play everything on these monitor fps too.
> very thx for your time
> 
> Mirko


Depends how much you want to spend.

If I had the cash I personally would go with Eizo for gaming IPS monitors.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjd2011*
> 
> Ordered this Sunday evening and it was, again, projected to be here on Thursday from South Korea. Says it's already en route to my Ann Arbor address (Tuesday morning)!!


Where do you work in Ann Arbor? I work right off state street on technology drive, almost right next to the airport.


----------



## pwspong

For the crossover 27q owners - how high do you turn the back light up? I mean there is no value on the screen when you do it, I just stare at my monitor watch it go from dim to bright - is it just preference or is all the way optimal?

Also is there a way to adjust sharpness on the 27Q?


----------



## pjd2011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Where do you work in Ann Arbor? I work right off state street on technology drive, almost right next to the airport.


I'm interning with GE for the summer but I go to school and live in Ypsilanti.

I did in fact get home from work Tuesday to an awesome Crossover 2720mdp (only two days for shipping!!)! The display was shipped great and has no cosmetic flaws. I tested and found ONE dead pixel in the middle right area of the screen. Definitely not noticeable except on black screens and if you're really looking for it. I was playing with an Avengers 1080p movie and Timescapes in 1440p and both look absolutely fantastic!

My mini-displayport to displayport cable worked great with my 2010 era Envy 14 and its Radeon 5650m chip. Only noticeable slowdown occurred when I played a 4k clip through VLC. Even then it was a slight hiccup. I'll be testing it out with the Starcraft 2 expansion sometime soon. Once I OC a bit I should be able to play at full resolution with medium to high settings. I really don't game much so I'm not too concerned. I will be hooking my Xbox up to it soon to see how that is.

I'll also be putting up a wall mount in the next week once I find a stud finder. Then I'll be able to pull the screen closer to my bed (directly in front of desk by about four feet) for movies and console gaming.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxino*
> 
> Hello guys
> i m new.. nice to mee you all
> i m looking for a 27 ips panel for games..
> can u help me to make a choice (and if u can a good seller too)? i m kinda newbie on monitor. i have 2 770 jet stream atm as gpu
> i usually play mmorpg but i would to play everything on these monitor fps too.
> very thx for your time
> 
> Mirko


Get the CrossOver 27Q LED. I have it and it is seriously smooth and provides excellent image quality for games like Battlefield 3.

Get the monitor from accessorieswhole, green-sum, BCC, etc. They're all quite reliable. I heard accessorieswhole is the best though.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwspong*
> 
> For the crossover 27q owners - how high do you turn the back light up? I mean there is no value on the screen when you do it, I just stare at my monitor watch it go from dim to bright - is it just preference or is all the way optimal?
> 
> Also is there a way to adjust sharpness on the 27Q?


Use your graphics driver for sharpness. To estimate brightness setting i'd say i'm set to 30%. You can always purchase a digital luminance meter to accurately set the cd/m2 of the panel. I use them at work to test some of the larger panels. http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale/wholesale-luminance-meter.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjd2011*
> 
> I'm interning with GE for the summer but I go to school and live in Ypsilanti.
> 
> I did in fact get home from work Tuesday to an awesome Crossover 2720mdp (only two days for shipping!!)! The display was shipped great and has no cosmetic flaws. I tested and found ONE dead pixel in the middle right area of the screen. Definitely not noticeable except on black screens and if you're really looking for it. I was playing with an Avengers 1080p movie and Timescapes in 1440p and both look absolutely fantastic!
> 
> My mini-displayport to displayport cable worked great with my 2010 era Envy 14 and its Radeon 5650m chip. Only noticeable slowdown occurred when I played a 4k clip through VLC. Even then it was a slight hiccup. I'll be testing it out with the Starcraft 2 expansion sometime soon. Once I OC a bit I should be able to play at full resolution with medium to high settings. I really don't game much so I'm not too concerned. I will be hooking my Xbox up to it soon to see how that is.
> 
> I'll also be putting up a wall mount in the next week once I find a stud finder. Then I'll be able to pull the screen closer to my bed (directly in front of desk by about four feet) for movies and console gaming.


Awesome!


----------



## smetz224

Just unboxed by 27Q LED today, it truly is beautiful. I've read through dozens of pages of this thread and others, and gathered that I'll be able to hook up my PS3, as long as I set it to output at 720p. However, when I tried this strategy with my cable box, the monitor turns on, but no picture. It appears that the monitor is HDCP-compliant, so that's not the issue. Has anyone had any luck hooking up a cable box to their monitor?


----------



## BoomSie32

I have the 2720MDP GOLD LED 2560x1440 27" QHD S-IPS HDMI monitor and I can't get a native resolution over HDMI. After some googling around, I understand this isn't possible (?) with this monitor? (though 1.4HDMI is supported ...)

Now I dont know if it's my laptop (Precision M4600) or the monitor. I'm googling all over the place (according to wiki specs; HDMI 1.4 should easily handle the monitors native resolution) but I can't find why it sticks with Full HD.

So ... tired of the search and unclear answers everywhere, I decided to move to another solution ... Display Port.

Now, before I go to order a displayport cable for this setup, can someone tell me in advance if THIS combination will serve me a native resolution 2560x1440?


----------



## pjd2011

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoomSie32*
> 
> I have the 2720MDP GOLD LED 2560x1440 27" QHD S-IPS HDMI monitor and I can't get a native resolution over HDMI. After some googling around, I understand this isn't possible (?) with this monitor? (though 1.4HDMI is supported ...)
> 
> Now I dont know if it's my laptop (Precision M4600) or the monitor. I'm googling all over the place (according to wiki specs; HDMI 1.4 should easily handle the monitors native resolution) but I can't find why it sticks with Full HD.
> 
> So ... tired of the search and unclear answers everywhere, I decided to move to another solution ... Display Port.
> 
> Now, before I go to order a displayport cable for this setup, can someone tell me in advance if THIS combination will serve me a native resolution 2560x1440?


Yes, displayport will work. I got my 2720mdp solely for the DP port as my laptop doesn't support 2560x1440 through HDMI even though its chip's specs indicate it does.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoomSie32*
> 
> I have the 2720MDP GOLD LED 2560x1440 27" QHD S-IPS HDMI monitor and I can't get a native resolution over HDMI. After some googling around, I understand this isn't possible (?) with this monitor? (though 1.4HDMI is supported ...)
> 
> Now I dont know if it's my laptop (Precision M4600) or the monitor. I'm googling all over the place (according to wiki specs; HDMI 1.4 should easily handle the monitors native resolution) but I can't find why it sticks with Full HD.
> 
> So ... tired of the search and unclear answers everywhere, I decided to move to another solution ... Display Port.
> 
> Now, before I go to order a displayport cable for this setup, can someone tell me in advance if THIS combination will serve me a native resolution 2560x1440?


As long as that is a native displayport, definitely.


----------



## aixiaoqing

Hello guys.

I have problem with my 2730md monitor.

I've switched it on, however, there is only backlight but there is no display.

I'm very sure of that because there should be some OSD showing the signal.

Is there anything to save it?

I'm not very good with the hardware.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## BoomSie32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> As long as that is a native displayport, definitely.


Native displayport ... there is a DP output on my laptop, so with Display Port I mean really a Display Port cable (no converters).


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoomSie32*
> 
> Native displayport ... there is a DP output on my laptop, so with Display Port I mean really a Display Port cable (no converters).


That would work if the monitor has a DP input.

AFAIK all laptop GPU's can only put out 1920x1200 over HDMI. That's why the HDMI isn't working.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smetz224*
> 
> Just unboxed by 27Q LED today, it truly is beautiful. I've read through dozens of pages of this thread and others, and gathered that I'll be able to hook up my PS3, as long as I set it to output at 720p. However, when I tried this strategy with my cable box, the monitor turns on, but no picture. It appears that the monitor is HDCP-compliant, so that's not the issue. Has anyone had any luck hooking up a cable box to their monitor?


What video output are you using on your cable box?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> Hello guys.
> 
> I have problem with my 2730md monitor.
> 
> I've switched it on, however, there is only backlight but there is no display.
> 
> I'm very sure of that because there should be some OSD showing the signal.
> 
> Is there anything to save it?
> 
> I'm not very good with the hardware.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


When you turn it on, what color is the osd led. Blue or Red? If its red then there is no video signal. If its blue its receiving video. First and easiest test is to try another cable, try a different PCs video output or simply plug in a working monitor to the pc to make sure its not your pc's video output. If none of those work, usually if there is backlight(pure white on the panel) the internal lvds (video cable) is either unplugged or loose. Try the easiest troubleshooting steps first and report back.


----------



## BoomSie32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> That would work if the monitor has a DP input.
> 
> AFAIK all laptop GPU's can only put out 1920x1200 over HDMI. That's why the HDMI isn't working.


After a few days of silence.

I managed to get output far beyond 1920x1200 with HDMI. I got it to serve native resolution with the laptop over HDMI using CRU ( http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU ) with the limitation of 40Hz @ 32 bit.

Since this is OK, but not desired, I bought a DP cable yesterday, now I'm finally getting native resolution @ 60Hz.

Problem solved


----------



## aixiaoqing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> When you turn it on, what color is the osd led. Blue or Red? If its red then there is no video signal. If its blue its receiving video. First and easiest test is to try another cable, try a different PCs video output or simply plug in a working monitor to the pc to make sure its not your pc's video output. If none of those work, usually if there is backlight(pure white on the panel) the internal lvds (video cable) is either unplugged or loose. Try the easiest troubleshooting steps first and report back.


Thanks for the reply.

I turned it on and the first few second was blue, a kind of purplish blue.
After that it became red.
I haven't try my pc output and other output yet but what I'm trying to say is that normally i'm able to see the OSD.
The OSD allow me to select the different video signal such as hdmi dp and vga.
But it's not showing up.

I've changed the lvds cable and I would like to know if the video board of the panel will be defective because I spoilt the cable while trying to insert into the panel's video board.


----------



## shish0000

Has anyone done a review of the black tune? I was thinking of getting one of the other models but now I've seen this I'll definitely be getting one if people have good things to say about it.

Edit just found a review. It mentions the coating which reduces reflections by 70% does this mean it's not a glossy screen ?


----------



## rock2702

Can I hook up a ps3 to my crossover 27q led-p monitor? Will it display any image on the monitor? What adapters do I need for video and sound?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> Can I hook up a ps3 to my crossover 27q led-p monitor? Will it display any image on the monitor? What adapters do I need for video and sound?


Maybe. You might get an image if you set 720p output.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> I turned it on and the first few second was blue, a kind of purplish blue.
> After that it became red.
> I haven't try my pc output and other output yet but what I'm trying to say is that normally i'm able to see the OSD.
> The OSD allow me to select the different video signal such as hdmi dp and vga.
> But it's not showing up.
> 
> I've changed the lvds cable and I would like to know if the video board of the panel will be defective because I spoilt the cable while trying to insert into the panel's video board.


If no video signal is getting sent to the video board, while it is powered on via osd power button, there should not be any "NO input signal" displayed by the video board on the panel. At least my 27Q's video board doesn't display any notification that there is no video signal. Yours most likely has a different video board. If you damaged the lvds cable output connector end that plugs into the video board then that is most likely the cause for backlight but no video displayed. Get a new cable and this time be more careful installing it. It should not have damaged the video board or the panel unless you plugged it in backwards (upside down, it is keyed btw) , or swapped the two voltage wires somehow.


----------



## aixiaoqing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> If no video signal is getting sent to the video board, while it is powered on via osd power button, there should not be any "NO input signal" displayed by the video board on the panel. At least my 27Q's video board doesn't display any notification that there is no video signal. Yours most likely has a different video board. If you damaged the lvds cable output connector end that plugs into the video board then that is most likely the cause for backlight but no video displayed. Get a new cable and this time be more careful installing it. It should not have damaged the video board or the panel unless you plugged it in backwards (upside down, it is keyed btw) , or swapped the two voltage wires somehow.


I've already changed the lvds cable to a new one.
However, it is still not able to work.
I didn't plug it upside down but I did plug in the wrong side.
There is a gold connector that matches the cable while a silver one that matches the OSD board.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aixiaoqing*
> 
> I've already changed the lvds cable to a new one.
> However, it is still not able to work.
> I didn't plug it upside down but I did plug in the wrong side.
> There is a gold connector that matches the cable while a silver one that matches the OSD board.


I didn't plug it upside down but I did plug in the wrong side.

If you plugged in the wrong end, you may have damaged the panel. Make sure no pins are bent at the video boards lvds connector. You may just have contact pads though. It sounds like you did to me since you are getting backlight from the led driver to the panel, but no video because the lvds output or input got damaged. It could very well be the panel or the video board. It's not always the same signal pinout on each end. The GND, VCC+ (dc voltage) pinouts are the ones that matter which output from the video board lvds to the panels lvds .The lvds cable is specifically designed and pined out for the output of the video board and the input of the panel. The panel end of the lvds connector is usually metal and the connector which going into the video boards output usually plastic. See if you can get the pinout for the video board lvds output to test the voltage with a voltage meter. If you are receiving voltage oh the VCC+ pins then its most likely your panel.

There is a gold connector that matches the cable while a silver one that matches the OSD board

The lvds cable? OSD board? Do you mean video board? An OSD board is the button board or keypad board which controls the brightness, on/off, input, contrast etc. of the panel. Well realistically the video board receives the users input from the OSD and then adjusts the panel accordingly. I think you're trying to say that there's a metal end and a all plastic end of the lvds cable.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock2702*
> 
> Can I hook up a ps3 to my crossover 27q led-p monitor? Will it display any image on the monitor? What adapters do I need for video and sound?


Does yours have a scaler? A scaler and multi-input model is needed for connecting to a PS3.

I don't own a PS3 so I wouldn't really know any specific details.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Does yours have a scaler? A scaler and multi-input model is needed for connecting to a PS3.
> 
> I don't own a PS3 so I wouldn't really know any specific details.


You might be able to get 720p without a scaler since it's 1/2 res.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Does yours have a scaler? A scaler and multi-input model is needed for connecting to a PS3.
> 
> I don't own a PS3 so I wouldn't really know any specific details.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> You might be able to get 720p without a scaler since it's 1/2 res.


If you have a 27Q most likely you will need a hdmi to DVI adapter (passive) since a 27Q( my model) only has DVI input. If your crossover has a HDMI input you shouldn't have any problem. If the PS3 outputs any type of video 640X480, 1366X768, 1920X1080 the panel will display the video. The native resolution (recommend) is 2560X1440 for the lcd panel, that does not mean once it receives video it will automatically preset to that resolution. Whatever your output video source resolution is, the video board/panel will adjust accordingly.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> If you have a 27Q most likely you will need a hdmi to DVI adapter (passive) since a 27Q( my model) only has DVI input. If your crossover has a HDMI input you shouldn't have any problem. If the PS3 outputs any type of video 640X480, 1366X768, 1920X1080 the panel will display the video. The native resolution (recommend) is 2560X1440 for the lcd panel, that does not mean once it receives video it will automatically preset to that resolution. Whatever your output video source resolution is, the video board/panel will adjust accordingly.


Not without a scalar.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Not without a scalar.


He should still be able to get 480i or 720p even without a scaler. He will need to set the output resolution of his PS3 correctly. If he has two inputs he already has a scaler built in but not sure what model he is using.

"Any good idea on how to make the monitor looks better with PS3?
it only works on 720p and it does looks very jeggy without scaler. Since it's practically acting as a 27" 720P monitor at that point. Making it unbearable sitting close to the monitor."


----------



## Fahrenheit85

How hard would it be to get the black bezel off to wrap with vinyl? I think it would look sharp with a brushed metal wrap


----------



## phobos1393

I'm having a problem with my crossover 27q and I'm wondering if any experts around here can help me with it. Very recently, when I turn on my crossover, I get a series of vertical and horizontal colored lines that are colored according to whatever is displayed on the screen behind it which disappears within .5 to 1 second. It started happening after an incident where I got a grid of discolored pixels across my monitor. I tried changing out the cables to no avail. Also tried reseating the cable, changing socket on gpu, etc. Nothing. Does not occur with my second, non-crossover monitor I have hooked up, so I've isolated the problem to the monitor itself. Any ideas?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phobos1393*
> 
> I'm having a problem with my crossover 27q and I'm wondering if any experts around here can help me with it. Very recently, when I turn on my crossover, I get a series of vertical and horizontal colored lines that are colored according to whatever is displayed on the screen behind it which disappears within .5 to 1 second. It started happening after an incident where I got a grid of discolored pixels across my monitor. I tried changing out the cables to no avail. Also tried reseating the cable, changing socket on gpu, etc. Nothing. Does not occur with my second, non-crossover monitor I have hooked up, so I've isolated the problem to the monitor itself. Any ideas?


If you have already connected another monitor to the computer and setup the same configuration as "working" then I would open it up and inspect the cabling and anything that may be discolored or damaged. If the panel still has backlight it is very possible the panel or the video board is faulty. You should still open it up and make sure the LVDS cable is properly seated at the panel and video board. Usually vertical and horizontal lines mean its the panel. If it is still under the 1 year warranty I would email your seller and ask for a replacement panel. Take plenty of pictures or even better a video of the unit failing.


----------



## phobos1393

It has more than backlight, the image is fine after the initial startup of the monitor. In fact, at some point last night, it fixed itself entirely, only to have the problem crop up again this morning when I woke up. I opened it up and took a look inside, nothing stood out to me. Checked all the cabling I could reach, though I didn't manage to disassemble it too much because I stripped a screw head in the process and didn't want to break out the hand drill. Man, those screws were terrible. Checked the PCB, everything seemed okay. Everything was tightened down. I took a video of what happens (http://s326.photobucket.com/user/Phobos1393/media/VID_20130629_204306.mp4.html), though, in case you, or anyone else, can provide any more insight. I appreciate the response, though.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phobos1393*
> 
> It has more than backlight, the image is fine after the initial startup of the monitor. In fact, at some point last night, it fixed itself entirely, only to have the problem crop up again this morning when I woke up. I opened it up and took a look inside, nothing stood out to me. Checked all the cabling I could reach, though I didn't manage to disassemble it too much because I stripped a screw head in the process and didn't want to break out the hand drill. Man, those screws were terrible. Checked the PCB, everything seemed okay. Everything was tightened down. I took a video of what happens (http://s326.photobucket.com/user/Phobos1393/media/VID_20130629_204306.mp4.html), though, in case you, or anyone else, can provide any more insight. I appreciate the response, though.


From the video you posted I don't see any vertical or horizontal lines. From what you described this is what I have...Does yours look like the lcd below?

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4125/5021097173_651316bf18_z.jpg

When you turn your monitor on and off, right when you turn on the monitor the backlight will actually turn on before the video signal is 100% complete creating some vertical lines for .5 seconds. If the backlight had better timing to compensate with the video signal then you wouldn't see these lines. This is normal.


----------



## phobos1393

It's hard to see in the video but it's slightly grid-like in nature, and also colored strangely, but I see what you're saying. However, I don't quite understand why it just started happening, then. Oh well, as long as it's nothing to be concerned about.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phobos1393*
> 
> It's hard to see in the video but it's slightly grid-like in nature, and also colored strangely, but I see what you're saying. However, I don't quite understand why it just started happening, then. Oh well, as long as it's nothing to be concerned about.


If there are little pixel colors as in noise around shaded areas constantly on the screen then its a faulty cable or loose connection. If it only happens for a second when you turn on the monitor I wouldn't worry about it too much. I mean how many times do you turn on and off your monitor? If it were pixelated and colored lines randomly displaying during constant use then that's a problem. My power options are set to sleep within 15 minutes. Does this happen when it turns back on or by using the osd button board?


----------



## phobos1393

It's mildly noticeable when it turns back on but it disappears much faster. Almost instantly. What I've been talking about is specific to the the instances where the osd button board is used.


----------



## ehpexs

After having my monitors for 5 months my biggest problems are a) the adapters (active displayport), b) color correction (no idea how to do it) and c) most games not supporting 7680x1440 or 8000x1440 (bezel corrected) at all.

Otherwise great monitors, I paid $380 a piece for mine and now they're $493 from the same seller on ebay.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> He should still be able to get 480i or 720p even without a scaler. He will need to set the output resolution of his PS3 correctly. If he has two inputs he already has a scaler built in but not sure what model he is using.
> 
> "Any good idea on how to make the monitor looks better with PS3?
> it only works on 720p and it does looks very jeggy without scaler. Since it's practically acting as a 27" 720P monitor at that point. Making it unbearable sitting close to the monitor."


I've seen cases where this doesn't work. Regardless... If you're going to hook up a PS3 or equivalent I highly suggest shelling out the extra $100 and getting the multi input ... You'll get a much more functional monitor with less headaches. More input lag perhaps, but it will be small and besides, counsel gaming has always put up with higher levels of input lag anyways.


----------



## newfieoc

Hey guys, I just recently bought one of these monitors off ebay and after receiving it it has a blueish tint in about a 1 inch square space at the bottom of the screen dead center. It's not the colour calibration as it's only this small area that's affected. Any ideas on a possible fix?


----------



## doe3879

For monitor without a scaler, is it possible to buy one separately and add it myself?

I though it would be better to just get a plain simply monitor and input lag seem like a bad thing at 1st. Most or all console games runs at 720p anyway.
And I didn't think I would be bothered this much by 720p display.
It's like watching a movie without codec and smoothing.

The 27Q is beautiful on with my PC tho.


----------



## kevinsbane

I don't think it's impossible, but it would probably cost more than just buying one with a scalar to begin with.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phobos1393*
> 
> It's mildly noticeable when it turns back on but it disappears much faster. Almost instantly. What I've been talking about is specific to the the instances where the osd button board is used.


Honestly I would not worry about it. It does not seem like an issue since this is not happening during normal operations.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newfieoc*
> 
> Hey guys, I just recently bought one of these monitors off ebay and after receiving it it has a blueish tint in about a 1 inch square space at the bottom of the screen dead center. It's not the colour calibration as it's only this small area that's affected. Any ideas on a possible fix?


Have you tried, new video cable, connected it to a different pc (video output), turning the monitor off and unplugging the power supply for a few seconds...then turning it back on and booting in VGA mode? Booting into VGA mode will use the generic windows vga driver and rule out this being a driver issue. If all these are done it could be a bad video board.


----------



## DaftDrunk

I finally got my 27Q from accessorieswhole a few weeks ago. The screen is absolutely gorgeous, really puts every TN panel I've used in my life to shame. I was lucky enough to get a monitor with no dead/stuck pixels and only a tiny amount of backlight bleed. The only thing that I wish it had was HDCP support, oh well.

I opted to purchase a 3 year squaretrade warranty just in case anything happens to the monitor. All in all I'm very satisfied with what I bought.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaftDrunk*
> 
> I finally got my 27Q from accessorieswhole a few weeks ago. The screen is absolutely gorgeous, really puts every TN panel I've used in my life to shame. I was lucky enough to get a monitor with no dead/stuck pixels and only a tiny amount of backlight bleed. The only thing that I wish it had was HDCP support, oh well.
> 
> I opted to purchase a 3 year squaretrade warranty just in case anything happens to the monitor. All in all I'm very satisfied with what I bought.


I did not think it was for a while but users on the forum say it is hdcp compliant.


----------



## DaftDrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I did not think it was for a while but users on the forum say it is hdcp compliant.


I thought so as well, maybe I'm unlucky:




Luckily I've got my TV connected to my PC (via VGA cable) so a quick Win+P>Extend removes the HDCP warning from WMC.


----------



## blacksheep85

Hi,

I purchased one of this Korean monitors, way back in Mar last year when the fever's still high.
Been to OC.net and hardforum all the time to read about them but did not comment.

My Catleap Q270 still going strong though.

I've been looking to purchase a Crossover 2720MDP. Right now deam-seller's selling for $400, $70 cheaper than Accessories Whole.
I've been following this thread and dream-seller's also quite recommended here.

Is $70 difference worth going with Accessories Whole ?
Also there's a newer model, AMG 2755 Black tune which just launched in Korea i think, same slim type like the 2735 model, just more input support.

Does the newer model offer better images ?

Thanks for every advice you all can give







.


----------



## Jixr

I would just like to drop in my exp with my new crossover compared to my shimian, the crossover is way better built, and I would like to say mine is a 'golden' monitor, no dead pixels, nice even color range, no back light bleed compared to shimian, and I think the reason the panel was a reject is that the colors are a bit on the warm side, but with some software I can cool it down a bit, and it looks just fine.

Out of the 7 or so koreans i've seen in person, my newest one is probably the best i've seen, most had at least one dead/stuck pixel, and others had the dust issues, or major blacklight bleed.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaftDrunk*
> 
> I thought so as well, maybe I'm unlucky:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily I've got my TV connected to my PC (via VGA cable) so a quick Win+P>Extend removes the HDCP warning from WMC.


I am pretty sure that HDCP does not work with analog signal only digital. So if you have HDMI/DVI output on your video card use that.


----------



## DyslexicChciken

To anyone who bought the pixel perfect version, did you guys get bad pixels? I have read around the web that ebay seller "pixel perfect" is a myth, and that they don't actually check the monitors.

Now that I am at the buying stage, I have my sights on a crossover. So, I am wondering if I should pay extra for "pixel perfect". If it is a myth, I will buy my crossover from http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Crossover-Monitor-s/1818.htm. That is, unless monoprice have their IPS 2560x1440 monitor back in stock.

Anyone have experience with this retailer: http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Crossover-Monitor-s/1818.htm ?


----------



## stubinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyslexicChciken*
> 
> To anyone who bought the pixel perfect version, did you guys get bad pixels? I have read around the web that ebay seller "pixel perfect" is a myth, and that they don't actually check the monitors.
> 
> Now that I am at the buying stage, I have my sights on a crossover. So, I am wondering if I should pay extra for "pixel perfect". If it is a myth, I will buy my crossover from http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Crossover-Monitor-s/1818.htm. That is, unless monoprice have their IPS 2560x1440 monitor back in stock.
> 
> Anyone have experience with this retailer: http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Crossover-Monitor-s/1818.htm ?


There's been some good feedback on the Korean PLS forum on them.

As for pixel perfect, people order them and get dead pixels, then others order non-pixel perfect and get no dead pixels. The thing that bugs me is you pay extra for PP, then the seller just refunds a small amount for each dead pixel, until it costs about the same as a non-PP monitor. It's like saying "hey give me $50 for a perfect pixel monitor and if you get dead pixels we'll adjust the price so its a non-PP monitor". To me that doesn't fix anything.


----------



## teenpercent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blacksheep85*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I purchased one of this Korean monitors, way back in Mar last year when the fever's still high.
> Been to OC.net and hardforum all the time to read about them but did not comment.
> 
> My Catleap Q270 still going strong though.
> 
> I've been looking to purchase a Crossover 2720MDP. Right now deam-seller's selling for $400, $70 cheaper than Accessories Whole.
> I've been following this thread and dream-seller's also quite recommended here.
> 
> Is $70 difference worth going with Accessories Whole ?
> Also there's a newer model, AMG 2755 Black tune which just launched in Korea i think, same slim type like the 2735 model, just more input support.
> 
> Does the newer model offer better images ?
> 
> Thanks for every advice you all can give
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Dream-Seller and AW are both recommended sellers on forums.
But it seems like AW has the Official Dealer Certificate of CrossOver...
The price of 2720MDP is not $70 higher than Dream-Seller.
I think that is the price for 2720MDP Pivot~
Anyway, go ahead with the seller you prefer.
Post several photos when it's available~


----------



## DaftDrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I am pretty sure that HDCP does not work with analog signal only digital. So if you have HDMI/DVI output on your video card use that.


I have 2 monitors connected. First is the 27q, which uses a DVI cable. The second is a 40 inch LCDTV, connected with a VGA cable.

The screencaps shown before were taken with just the 27q connected. HDCP doesnt apply if you're using a VGA cable. But if you have a DVI cable then HDCP comes into play.

Can anyone confirm whether or not their 27q is HDCP compatible?


----------



## franksohn

Hello folks,

Ive had my monitor for a while now, and its been driven by my desktop. I have now switched over to the Razer Blade, and I'd like to use it with that, and ditch the desktop altogether. The issue is that while the monitor is detected (using and HDMI to DVI-D converter), it will not display anything since windows 8 wont allow me to set up a resolution over 1600x900, the laptop's native display. Any thoughts about how to get it to work, absent trading up for a monitor with an HDMI 1.4a port?


----------



## Koehler

Looking for a Crossover Black Tune 2735AMG vs Crossover 27Q LED review.

Anyone have both to comment?


----------



## myrtleee34

I have the 27Q LED and the Black Tune should arrive friday


----------



## mcaskey

Mine's going nuts, flickering, green, and snowing. Here's a video of it in action: https://plus.google.com/u/0/101400827436082504244/posts/a4mwxjHHjxE

Any idea why?

I can't get a reply from the seller, DHSummer, so I'm looking for ways to fix it.

Thanks!


----------



## mcaskey

Any tips or tricks on getting it to work would be much appreciated!


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaftDrunk*
> 
> I have 2 monitors connected. First is the 27q, which uses a DVI cable. The second is a 40 inch LCDTV, connected with a VGA cable.
> 
> The screencaps shown before were taken with just the 27q connected. HDCP doesnt apply if you're using a VGA cable. But if you have a DVI cable then HDCP comes into play.
> 
> Can anyone confirm whether or not their 27q is HDCP compatible?


Mine says HDCP compliant using a DVI cable with 660Ti. Also take note your video card has to be hdcp compliant. What manufacture and model is your video output device?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *franksohn*
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> Ive had my monitor for a while now, and its been driven by my desktop. I have now switched over to the Razer Blade, and I'd like to use it with that, and ditch the desktop altogether. The issue is that while the monitor is detected (using and HDMI to DVI-D converter), it will not display anything since windows 8 wont allow me to set up a resolution over 1600x900, the laptop's native display. Any thoughts about how to get it to work, absent trading up for a monitor with an HDMI 1.4a port?


Does it display at any given resolution? So you are using a converter/scaler or is it passive? Your blade 14" laptop does support 1080p through the hdmi port. So it should work with the correct converter. If its passive it probably will not work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcaskey*
> 
> Any tips or tricks on getting it to work would be much appreciated!


Looks like a faulty video cable issue. Test it with another video output with different cable.


----------



## myrtleee34

I like the new monitor!


----------



## Hukkel

Hey guys, does anyone here already own a Black Tune 2755AMG?


----------



## myrtleee34

My 2735 arrived yesterday!


----------



## tino1317

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Hey guys, does anyone here already own a Black Tune 2755AMG?


Ordered mine a few days ago. Should be getting it soon.


----------



## Gloomfrost

Hey everyone. Been a long time (almost a year!) since I got my Crossover.

Honestly it's been perfect with the exception of what happened today...

This hideous thing spawned right in front of me while I was doing stuff:





Any way to fix this?

I got it last September from BCC so it should be covered under the 1yr warranty.. Right?

Thanks in advance


----------



## b0yd07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehpsyc*
> 
> Just want to update everyone on what was wrong with my monitor. After running into repeated problems with every replacement part my seller send me, I decided instead of waiting further to take my good crossover monitor and do some part swapping (I had been hesitant to do this for fear of damaging the working monitor, but decided to proceed after much frustration). I was able to remove the green LG PCB and do a swap between the two monitors, which transferred the problem from one to the other. So I can confirm that was my culprit this whole time. I suspect one of the capacitors, which has been making a loud whine, is to blame. Hopefully my seller (who has stopped responding for about a week now, beginning immediately after I allowed my paypal case to close since they had been helpful up til that point) will finally answer me and send me the replacement part. I have however been able to find it online for $25 so I won't be completely screwed if they abandon me. Just wanted to share in case anyone else was experiencing a similar issue.


Sweet Jesus. I have read literally every post leading up to yours after dealing with the exact same problem. FINALLY a legitimate solution.

I initially had the backlight LED driver board fail. Green-sum refused to send the replacement for free (asked $50). I bought that replacement from AW for $40. Fixed that problem.

Then came the blackouts. Contacted Green-sum, he again wanted $50 to replace the main PCB. I bought it from AW for $40. That (I thought) fixed the blackouts. So at this point I am $80 into repairing this monitor.

One week later, the blackouts return. I started thinking maybe the replacement LED driver boards were the culprit. It seems everyone that I've read has had this issue has also replaced the LED driver board with the new blue one. Could it be possible that the blue PCB LED driver board is killing the other components?

At this point, I had had enough. Decided to cut my losses and be done with this P.O.S. and buy a QNIX or something similar. On a last ditch effort I started reading through this thread and found your post. Though I'm hesitant to sink any more money into this cursed monitor, I think it's worth a shot for $25.

*Can you provide a link and/or part number to the replacement part you spoke about, please?*

Thanks

EDIT: Then again, if this is an issue with the LED driver board burning everything else up the monitor is doomed to fail again...


----------



## Swag

Hey guys, I posted here a while back and I need help.

Should I get 2x 27Q or 1x 30Q.

So basically, I'm asking whether I should get 2 1440p monitors or 1 1600p monitor. What do you guys think?


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Hey guys, I posted here a while back and I need help.
> 
> Should I get 2x 27Q or 1x 30Q.
> 
> So basically, I'm asking whether I should get 2 1440p monitors or 1 1600p monitor. What do you guys think?


Depends on what you want to do really. Two screens are terrible for eyefinity/surround, so the second screen would just be used as a second screen, and not for gaming. If you could use a second screen, two 1440p monitors make more sense.


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swag*
> 
> Hey guys, I posted here a while back and I need help.
> 
> Should I get 2x 27Q or 1x 30Q.
> 
> So basically, I'm asking whether I should get 2 1440p monitors or 1 1600p monitor. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on what you want to do really. Two screens are terrible for eyefinity/surround, so the second screen would just be used as a second screen, and not for gaming. If you could use a second screen, two 1440p monitors make more sense.
Click to expand...

Well I don't think I'm going to game on it, It's mostly for home entertainment for when I'm in bed. Probably watch some netflix or some Hulu. I don't have cable in my house because we are good with what subscriptions we have online.







We got amazing internet though and it costs us a premium already.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomfrost*
> 
> Hey everyone. Been a long time (almost a year!) since I got my Crossover.
> 
> Honestly it's been perfect with the exception of what happened today...
> 
> This hideous thing spawned right in front of me while I was doing stuff:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way to fix this?
> 
> I got it last September from BCC so it should be covered under the 1yr warranty.. Right?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Most likely it is your panel since it is a vertical line. You would need to get the LG panel model number typically LM270WQ1 and replace. If you get the right model number it will be a direct swap. Takes about 5 minutes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0yd07*
> 
> Sweet Jesus. I have read literally every post leading up to yours after dealing with the exact same problem. FINALLY a legitimate solution.
> 
> I initially had the backlight LED driver board fail. Green-sum refused to send the replacement for free (asked $50). I bought that replacement from AW for $40. Fixed that problem.
> 
> Then came the blackouts. Contacted Green-sum, he again wanted $50 to replace the main PCB. I bought it from AW for $40. That (I thought) fixed the blackouts. So at this point I am $80 into repairing this monitor.
> 
> One week later, the blackouts return. I started thinking maybe the replacement LED driver boards were the culprit. It seems everyone that I've read has had this issue has also replaced the LED driver board with the new blue one. Could it be possible that the blue PCB LED driver board is killing the other components?
> 
> At this point, I had had enough. Decided to cut my losses and be done with this P.O.S. and buy a QNIX or something similar. On a last ditch effort I started reading through this thread and found your post. Though I'm hesitant to sink any more money into this cursed monitor, I think it's worth a shot for $25.
> 
> *Can you provide a link and/or part number to the replacement part you spoke about, please?*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> EDIT: Then again, if this is an issue with the LED driver board burning everything else up the monitor is doomed to fail again...


The blue PCB rev 00 is the one that fails. It sounds like they sent you the exact rev of the first failed led driver board. You need to contact them and get the new REV green PCB. When mine failed I took pictures of it demanding a new REV and specifically stated I DO NOT WANT THE SAME REV 00. I told them if you send the same I will send it right back or find a different manufactured led driver board. There are more than 1 led driver board that will work with the LM270WQ1 IPS LG panel. They sent me the new rev next day air. Also if a capacitor has blown it is visible and almost impossible to miss. If they look ok (tops are flat) then you can test them using a multi meter. Capacitors are about 50 cents to a little over a dollar and are the easiest component to replace on a pcb. What I suggest is, find out which rev led driver board you have. If its the blue pcb REV 00 then the mosfet is damaged or will be not the capacitors.(there are 3 caps, 1 is solid) If its the new REV that failed green PCB (unlikely) buy all 5 capacitors for $3 and replace them yourself.


----------



## b0yd07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> The blue PCB rev 00 is the one that fails. It sounds like they sent you the exact rev of the first failed led driver board. You need to contact them and get the new REV green PCB. When mine failed I took pictures of it demanding a new REV and specifically stated I DO NOT WANT THE SAME REV 00. I told them if you send the same I will send it right back or find a different manufactured led driver board. There are more than 1 led driver board that will work with the LM270WQ1 IPS LG panel. They sent me the new rev next day air. Also if a capacitor has blown it is visible and almost impossible to miss. If they look ok (tops are flat) then you can test them using a multi meter. Capacitors are about 50 cents to a little over a dollar and are the easiest component to replace on a pcb. What I suggest is, find out which rev led driver board you have. If its the blue pcb REV 00 then the mosfet is damaged or will be not the capacitors.(there are 3 caps, 1 is solid) If its the new REV that failed green PCB (unlikely) buy all 5 capacitors for $3 and replace them yourself.


Whoops, my bad. I am confusing it with the blue main bypass pcb. The LED driver pcb is most definitely the green one.

My question is, how do we actually know these variants of the LED driver board are indeed compatible with the rest of the components? I am no electrical engineer, so perhaps I'm asking stupid questions here. Electrical circuits run on magic so far as I know / am concerned.

I'm going to pull my monitor apart again and take a look at the LG PCB. Accessorieswhole is looking into sourcing that for me as we speak. This will make $120 I have sunk into the monitor. Not. Another. Dime. It's going in the trash if this doesn't fix the issue.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0yd07*
> 
> Whoops, my bad. I am confusing it with the blue main bypass pcb. The LED driver pcb is most definitely the green one.
> 
> My question is, how do we actually know these variants of the LED driver board are indeed compatible with the rest of the components? I am no electrical engineer, so perhaps I'm asking stupid questions here. Electrical circuits run on magic so far as I know / am concerned.
> 
> I'm going to pull my monitor apart again and take a look at the LG PCB. Accessorieswhole is looking into sourcing that for me as we speak. This will make $120 I have sunk into the monitor. Not. Another. Dime. It's going in the trash if this doesn't fix the issue.


So what is your monitor doing? A problem description would be nice. The video board has conductive polymer aluminum solid capacitors which are highly unlikely to fail.

My job consists of repairing, building and testing of all types of touch screen monitors and industrial computers. We make all custom cables and design about 50% or our electronics/pcb's in house. I am no electrician but I know a lot about electronics and how they work software and hardware wise. Today I actually worked with one of our electrical engineers on how to setup a 42" from the bottom up. It shouldn't be much different than ours since we use similar kordis kits (video boards). The video board or main board is the board you are talking about. Usually you can either power the video board external or internal. Internal using a internal open frame 12Vdc out power supply wiring it directly to the 4/6 pin input on the video board. External being the 27Q since we are inputting 24Vdc from the I/O at the 4 pin female connector.(input/output) Usually the input and output voltages/signal/dim adjust are silk screened on the top or bottom of the pcb. (like ours on each connector) There is a 12/24Vdc inverter output on the video board which supplies voltage to the led driver/inverter which then outputs a higher voltage to the panel for the ccfls/leds. For example: today we were looking at the data sheet of the video board output(inverter) to try and set the jumper to 12V or 24V. Since the panel inverter input was 24V we decided to install a separate power supply/pcb that outputs 24V for the panel. It was a 12V input/24Vdc output which we were directly pulling 12V from the video board to power it. We could have ran it off the video board (inverter output connectort)but we decided not to. Now we also had to set the LVDS voltage (video cable) usually 10", 12", 15" (3V) 17", 19", 24" (5V) and anything above is 12V. (most common panels) so since it was a 42" we set the jumper to 12V. Anyways what you can do is look for a silk screen on the video board or simply use a volt meter to test the voltage at the video boards output connector (led driver board) then test voltage at the output of the led driver board connector to the panel. That will give you the output voltages you will need. After testing I would right down the pinout starting at pin 1. My guess is its 12V to the led driver and it outputs 24V -44V to the panel or vise versa. You can always get a data sheet to look at from the manufacture. If you are incapable of doing this I would just contact your seller and ask for a new video board. They also sell a video board kit on ebay for the LG panel you have. It comes with a video board, osd button board and cables for like $89. Obviously the hole pattern might not line up.


----------



## schloppidol

Hi guys,

Got my Crossover LEDP just over 13 months ago from AW. Had been working excellently until yesterday when started flickering (backlight I think). Today it went black and stays black.
Read through this thread and saw some info about the LED board so opened it up and looks like I have the MOSFET issue mentioned:




It should work if I can source a new LED board from somewhere right?

Thanks.


----------



## b0yd07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> So what is your monitor doing? A problem description would be nice. The video board has conductive polymer aluminum solid capacitors which are highly unlikely to fail.
> 
> My job consists of repairing, building and testing of all types of touch screen monitors and industrial computers. We make all custom cables and design about 50% or our electronics/pcb's in house. I am no electrician but I know a lot about electronics and how they work software and hardware wise. Today I actually worked with one of our electrical engineers on how to setup a 42" from the bottom up. It shouldn't be much different than ours since we use similar kordis kits (video boards). The video board or main board is the board you are talking about. Usually you can either power the video board external or internal. Internal using a internal open frame 12Vdc out power supply wiring it directly to the 4/6 pin input on the video board. External being the 27Q since we are inputting 24Vdc from the I/O at the 4 pin female connector.(input/output) Usually the input and output voltages/signal/dim adjust are silk screened on the top or bottom of the pcb. (like ours on each connector) There is a 12/24Vdc inverter output on the video board which supplies voltage to the led driver/inverter which then outputs a higher voltage to the panel for the ccfls/leds. For example: today we were looking at the data sheet of the video board output(inverter) to try and set the jumper to 12V or 24V. Since the panel inverter input was 24V we decided to install a separate power supply/pcb that outputs 24V for the panel. It was a 12V input/24Vdc output which we were directing pulling 12V from the video board to power it. We could have ran it off the video board (inverter output connectort)but we decided not to. Now we also had to set the LVDS voltage (video cable) usually 10", 12", 15" (3V) 17", 19", 24" (5V) and anything above is 12V. (most common panels) so since it was a 42" we set the jumper to 12V. Anyways what you can do is look for a silk screen on the video board or simply use a volt meter to test the voltage at the video boards output connector (led driver board) then test voltage at the output of the led driver board connector to the panel. That will give you the output voltages you will need. After testing I would right down the pinout starting at pin 1. My guess is its 12V to the led driver and it outputs 24V to the panel or vise versa. You can always get a data sheet to look at from the manufacture. If you are incapable of doing this I would just contact your seller and ask for a new video board. They also sell a video board kit on ebay for the LG panel you have. It comes with a video board, led driver, osd button board and cables for like $89. Obviously the hole pattern might not line up.


Thank you for that write-up- was very interesting. (Although much of it went over my head.)

This is a video that I took of my monitor: 



It seems heat related as it takes the longest amount of time before it will die out like that for the first time. After powering it off and back on, it will work for ~5 minutes. Power cycle again and it will last for ~3 mintues... etc.

I will get out the volt meter and take a few measurements as you suggested. Will report back with findings.

Thanks again.

EDIT: Can you please post the link to the eBay auction you were referring to?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schloppidol*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Got my Crossover LEDP just over 13 months ago from AW. Had been working excellently until yesterday when started flickering (backlight I think). Today it went black and stays black.
> Read through this thread and saw some info about the LED board so opened it up and looks like I have the MOSFET issue mentioned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should work if I can source a new LED board from somewhere right?
> 
> Thanks.


Yes, just contact accesories whole and ask them for the new rev green pcb. If they are a loyal company they should send you it for free. If they don't make sure to state that this was a engineering flaw and there should be a recall in place. You will get about 300 hours out of the monitor before it fails and that is a fact. Most led monitors are rated at 100,000 hours.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0yd07*
> 
> Thank you for that write-up- was very interesting. (Although much of it went over my head.)
> 
> This is a video that I took of my monitor:
> 
> 
> 
> It seems heat related as it takes the longest amount of time before it will die out like that for the first time. After powering it off and back on, it will work for ~5 minutes. Power cycle again and it will last for ~3 mintues... etc.
> 
> I will get out the volt meter and take a few measurements as you suggested. Will report back with findings.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> EDIT: Can you please post the link to the eBay auction you were referring to?


Does the osd button board LED stay Blue when the backlight dies? The reason I am asking this is if the blue led is still lit then we know that the video board is still sending video to the panel. You just can't see the video because there is no light behind it. If this is true then your led driver is failing and you need the new rev. People need to search the forum as I stated this over 20 times.

The kit below comes with all cabling. You will not need a LED driver board since they run the 24Vdc-40Vdc off the video boards inverter connector. Like I stated in my last post you can either use a led driver board/inverter to power the leds in the panel or pull the voltage from the video board. It really all depends on how they manufacture and engineer it. Also as stated in the ebay listing the input for the video board is Voltage:14~16V Current>5A. or Voltage:16~19V Current>4A

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DF-Signal-LCD-Controller-board-work-for-LM270WQ1-27inch-2560-1440-Lcd-Panel-/181110503192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2b06f718


----------



## b0yd07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Does the osd button board LED stay Blue when the backlight dies? The reason I am asking this is if the blue led is still lit then we know that the video board is still sending video to the panel. You just can't see the video because there is no light behind it. If this is true then your led driver is failing and you need the new rev. People need to search the forum as I stated this over 20 times.


I don't remember what the LED does. In the video it looks like it goes red, but that could be due to the camera adjusting for the reduced lighting.

This is _not_ due to the LED driver board. I have already had that issue once and replaced that board accordingly. And yes, when that board went out the monitor still received an image. (Viewable with a flashlight held to the screen.)

Tehpsyc seems to believe it is the LG video board. That should be the same board found in the Apple displays... I can not imagine an LG name brand board being unreliable... Again, makes me believe it is due to the replacement LED driver boards frying the rest of the components.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schloppidol*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Got my Crossover LEDP just over 13 months ago from AW. Had been working excellently until yesterday when started flickering (backlight I think). Today it went black and stays black.
> Read through this thread and saw some info about the LED board so opened it up and looks like I have the MOSFET issue mentioned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should work if I can source a new LED board from somewhere right?
> 
> Thanks.


Never had this problem and I think your idea works on paper. Don't know where you can get a new LED board from though.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0yd07*
> 
> I don't remember what the LED does. In the video it looks like it goes red, but that could be due to the camera adjusting for the reduced lighting.
> 
> This is _not_ due to the LED driver board. I have already had that issue once and replaced that board accordingly. And yes, when that board went out the monitor still received an image. (Viewable with a flashlight held to the screen.)
> 
> Tehpsyc seems to believe it is the LG video board. That should be the same board found in the Apple displays... I can not imagine an LG name brand board being unreliable... Again, makes me believe it is due to the replacement LED driver boards frying the rest of the components.


I highly doubt the new REV led driver board has anything to do with damaging the panel. The main video board usually sends 12/24Vdc to the led driver board and it upscales/boosts the voltage for the leds. These panels have a very high cd/m rating a lot brighter than the auo, sam, sharp and lg panels we use. If anything the leds would not turn on due to receiving a lower voltage from the failing led driver board just like what happens when the mosfet has burnt up. The panel video receiver boards are very hard to find since most people replace the whole panel if it is faulty. My guess is it's the video board since these are manufactured in korea by who knows what company. If you think about it the video board powers everything that is connected to it. Sooo if the lvds cable to the panel is receiving an incorrect voltage from the video board (lower voltage or none) then the panel will be black with little backlight. (led turned to red) It could be any of the 3 parts really but i'm just going off what i see by experience. Having a panel go bad is the most uncommon but it is possible.


----------



## schloppidol

I contacted AW who said that Crossover currently on summer holidays so will have to wait a few days. AW did say it would cost 40$ inc shipping for a new LED driver board. Also asked for screenshot of the board.

Hopefully there will be some in stock!


----------



## b0yd07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I highly doubt the new REV led driver board has anything to do with damaging the panel. The main video board usually sends 12/24Vdc to the led driver board and it upscales/boosts the voltage for the leds. These panels have a very high cd/m rating a lot brighter than the auo, sam, sharp and lg panels we use. If anything the leds would not turn on due to receiving a lower voltage from the failing led driver board just like what happens when the mosfet has burnt up. *The panel video receiver boards are very hard to find since most people replace the whole panel if it is faulty. My guess is it's the video board since these are manufactured in korea by who knows what company.* If you think about it the video board powers everything that is connected to it. Sooo if the lvds cable to the panel is receiving an incorrect voltage from the video board (lower voltage or none) then the panel will be black with little backlight. (led turned to red) It could be any of the 3 parts really but i'm just going off what i see by experience. Having a panel go bad is the most uncommon but it is possible.


Are both of these sentences referring to the same board? To be clear, there is the "LED driver board," the "DVI board / main by-pass board" (square shaped in the middle), and then the "video board" (tucked away behind the silver shielding). We are talking about the video board?

I was under the assumption that the video board tucked in there by the panel was actually manufactured by LG and specifically paired with their own panel. If it is also sourced from a third party, then I would have a much easier time putting the blame on that board going bad than I would had it been a legitimate LG part.

AW also told me Crossover is on holiday and would get back with me about it. I wonder now, though, if it would be a better idea to find the board that Apple uses in their Cinema displays, versus the same one that Crossover would most likely send me.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0yd07*
> 
> Are both of these sentences referring to the same board? To be clear, there is the "LED driver board," the "DVI board / main by-pass board" (square shaped in the middle), and then the "video board" (tucked away behind the silver shielding). We are talking about the video board?
> 
> I was under the assumption that the video board tucked in there by the panel was actually manufactured by LG and specifically paired with their own panel. If it is also sourced from a third party, then I would have a much easier time putting the blame on that board going bad than I would had it been a legitimate LG part.
> 
> AW also told me Crossover is on holiday and would get back with me about it. I wonder now, though, if it would be a better idea to find the board that Apple uses in their Cinema displays, versus the same one that Crossover would most likely send me.


I am talking about the video board receiver in the panel. These are hard to find and most of the time they are very hard to find. Over thousands of panels are built and tested here and I would say there is less than a 1% failure rate if any on those internal video receiver boards. We have had one go bad simply because a employee plugged the lvds cable improperly. They typically never go bad but it is possible just something we rarely ever see. It also may be manufactured by a separate company. LG may make the substrate/glass/chassis panel but not all the electronics.

To be clear, there is the "LED driver board," the "DVI board / main by-pass board" (square shaped in the middle), and then the "video board" (tucked away behind the silver shielding). We are talking about the video board?

LED driver board, video board or main board, osd button board, panel which has the video board reciever, led board, leds, layers etc. Video board receiver is built into the panel and is usually held in with a few screws.


----------



## JJ1217

Well, I'm very confused at the moment.

Hooked up a second 1080p monitor to be with my 1440p 27Q monitor, and just put C3 on the 1080p monitor to just see the performance difference. The performance difference was as expected.. but C3 looks way better on my TN 1080p panel. Its way more vivid, colours seem to be nicer, the grass looks right (At 1440p some blades of grass have a whitish sheen to them). I'm guessing its due to the fact that the AA works alot more at 1080p than at 1440p (And C3 looks terribad even with 8XMSAA at 1440p, while C3 with 4XSMAA on 1080p looks gorgeous.) I didn't know what I was missing. I'm not sure if I set it up wrong or something, or its just C3's terrible AA gone wild. Anyone know anything related to this.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> Well, I'm very confused at the moment.
> 
> Hooked up a second 1080p monitor to be with my 1440p 27Q monitor, and just put C3 on the 1080p monitor to just see the performance difference. The performance difference was as expected.. but C3 looks way better on my TN 1080p panel. Its way more vivid, colours seem to be nicer, the grass looks right (At 1440p some blades of grass have a whitish sheen to them). I'm guessing its due to the fact that the AA works alot more at 1080p than at 1440p (And C3 looks terribad even with 8XMSAA at 1440p, while C3 with 4XSMAA on 1080p looks gorgeous.) I didn't know what I was missing. I'm not sure if I set it up wrong or something, or its just C3's terrible AA gone wild. Anyone know anything related to this.


Crysis 3 looks awesome on mine. Not sure what video card you are running but I am using two GTX660Ti's. You probably aren't used to the higher resolution. You need to use a high AA and SMAA to get rid of the jagged grass at high resolutions. I think going to 1080p looks blurry and like crap.


----------



## JJ1217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Crysis 3 looks awesome on mine. Not sure what video card you are running but I am using two GTX660Ti's. You probably aren't used to the higher resolution. You need to use a high AA and SMAA to get rid of the jagged grass at high resolutions. I think going to 1080p looks blurry and like crap.


I've had my monitor for around 8 months now. C3 is the only game in which I've noticed 1080p looks better than 1440p. This isn't 1080p on 27 inches, its 1080p on 21.5 inch which has almost the same PPI, and thus isn't blurry at all. The dull colour is the only thing bad about it.


----------



## Daviducci0

Hi all! I'm very interested to these Korean monitors but i don't know if i have to buy the Crossover 27Q or the BlackTune 2755 (LG AH-IPS). My only fear is the black light bleeding of Blacktube much more noticeble than 27Q. It 's just luck or these new panels (AH-IPS) suffer the most?
Thank you for replies! I'm an Italian guy and this forum is the only one with full detalied information.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> I've had my monitor for around 8 months now. C3 is the only game in which I've noticed 1080p looks better than 1440p. *This isn't 1080p on 27 inches, its 1080p on 21.5 inch which has almost the same PPI,* and thus isn't blurry at all. The dull colour is the only thing bad about it.


I know this. The 27Q has a higher ppi so i'm really confused to why it looks worse than a 21.5" 1080p monitor. Did you even calibrate your 27Q or adjust the colors/contrasts in the video driver control panel?


----------



## JJ1217

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I know this. The 27Q has a higher ppi so i'm really confused to why it looks worse than a 21.5" 1080p monitor. Did you even calibrate your 27Q or adjust the colors/contrasts in the video driver control panel?


Its just the one game. I actually have no idea if its calibrated or not, I really don't know how to. It looks correct to me, thats all. HAHA


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JJ1217*
> 
> Its just the one game. I actually have no idea if its calibrated or not, I really don't know how to. It looks correct to me, thats all. HAHA


Windows 7 has a built in display calibration wizard. Just type in calibrate in the windows start/menu search box. Click calibrate display color. After your done you can also adjust desktop color settings and your application (game) color settings in your video driver control panel. If its just happening in one game I would say that you don't have the right settings selected or its just the driver of your video card not handling the video properly. Try updating the driver. I am assuming this is a ATI video card. In C3 the game looks amazing at max res. and everything else on very high/ultra. Are you on custom video settings in the game or are you just using the built in video performance detect setting? The game detects the type/specs of your video card and selects the best option that your card can handle. I typically crank everything on very high and max out all AA as far as possible but I am running GTX 660Ti 3GB in SLI.


----------



## Piciato

Hi there peeps, i would like to share my mini experience with my Crossover 27Q-P LED Monitor that i purchased a month ago.



First impression when taking out of the box, it feels WEIGHTY, which is a good thing.
I dont fiddle around with the pivot that much, but its useful when i need it.


Sorry if i do not have any good picture of the monitor, but what i can say is, this monitor is BEAUTIFUL.
No dead pixel/stuck, minimal backlight bleed on the bottom left and no issues on the power brick itself.

Previously, i've been using an EVGA 670 FTW 2gb to drive this beast of a monitor. It runs great, without AA
of course.


But it isn't enough for me, so i step up the game and purchased the EVGA 680 4GB, thinking that the vram
is important for the resolution bump.



*I WAS WRONG*

Its a minor fps diff, as u can see in the benchmark. It does hit the 2gb VRAM when monitoring through EVGA precision, but the performance
is just a 5-6fps difference. I was disappointed..



After 2 days of usage, i finally decided to sell the 680, to get the 780. ITS THE RIGHT MOVE!



CONCLUSION

I give it a 9/10. I'm lucky though, not to have any defects on this monitor. Stepping up from a 1080p to 1440p is a whole new experience
IMO. I was having skeptical thoughts about the 1440p hype, but it pays off in the end.

The only thing i hate about this monitor, is the feeling of not having a local warranty in mind. Crossing my fingers
each day!!

Up to date setup at the moment. Thank u for your time!!


----------



## ehpexs

I have a few questions.

So firstly; After a while of troubleshooting, I figured that the PCB in my left monitor is defective.

So this leads to a couple more questions. How expensive is it ship to ship one of these round trip from Canada to Korea and then Korea to Canada (out of my pocket as per the warrenty.)

Which leads to another question, how hard is it swap the internals out of these monitors, and how much does that cost compared to the cost of shipping?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs*
> 
> I have a few questions.
> 
> So firstly; After a while of troubleshooting, I figured that the PCB in my left monitor is defective.
> 
> So this leads to a couple more questions. How expensive is it ship to ship one of these round trip from Canada to Korea and then Korea to Canada (out of my pocket as per the warrenty.)
> 
> Which leads to another question, how hard is it swap the internals out of these monitors, and how much does that cost compared to the cost of shipping?


There are 3 PCB's in the 27Q not including the receiver board or logic board (pcb) on the panel. Which board is it? Monitors are easier to repair than computers. The 27Q bezel and back cover is held in by screws unlike other plastic bezel monitors. (clips) Very very easy to take apart and work on. If you know which board is bad, video board or led driver board (most common) then simply take pictures and ask them to send you a new one. This will take an experienced technician under 5 minutes to repair.


----------



## ehpexs

I'm assuming either the board to do with the pixel clock or voltage regulation. I'm not exactly sure which one it is. Just that this is the problem.


----------



## roygbiv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs*
> 
> I'm assuming either the board to do with the pixel clock or voltage regulation. I'm not exactly sure which one it is. Just that this is the problem.


I am in the same predicament. My monitor exhibits the same symptoms as shown in your video. Dream-seller says they will fix it, but only if I pay for shipping to Korea round-trip. Accessories-whole will sell either PCB for $40, this seems like it will be cheaper and faster. I just want to buy the right board.

Interestingly, if I take apart the monitor and unplug then re-plug everything in, the monitor will work about a week or so with no symptoms, but they eventually come back.


----------



## itpromike

Ok gents, so I"m thinking about getting one of these monitors however I'm concerned over quality. Who here has a 2729MDP Gold and how do you find it so far? Also what's the difference between the 2720 and the 27Q? The 2720 is about $200 more on some sites but I'm not sure why. Wha'ts the big gap between these two monitors? I'm looking for the closest thing to an Apple Cinema as I can get.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs*
> 
> I'm assuming either the board to do with the pixel clock or voltage regulation. I'm not exactly sure which one it is. Just that this is the problem.


Have you tried directly plugging it into your video output device/video card? Since the panel still has backlight from the led driver board it looks like it is your video board. The blue led is lit so it is still receiving a video signal. If it were outputting no voltage on the voltage pins on the lvds connector the led would still stay lit (blue). This is what our video boards do where I work. When the lvds cable is unplugged the osd button board will stay lit blue/green because it records the input signal to the video board not the output signal to the panel. So it appears you have a faulty video board. Lets just say I have seen the led drivers fail and video boards fail in the 27Qs. I have yet to see a bad lg panel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roygbiv*
> 
> I am in the same predicament. My monitor exhibits the same symptoms as shown in your video. Dream-seller says they will fix it, but only if I pay for shipping to Korea round-trip. Accessories-whole will sell either PCB for $40, this seems like it will be cheaper and faster. I just want to buy the right board.
> 
> Interestingly, if I take apart the monitor and unplug then re-plug everything in, the monitor will work about a week or so with no symptoms, but they eventually come back.


Buy the video board from AW. They are a great distributor to deal with. Monitors are really easy to swap parts.


----------



## itpromike

Also does anyone else have a problem with the monitor flickering when first turned on? I've read a few posts about this... Is this normal with these monitors?


----------



## itpromike

Any thoughts guys?


----------



## roygbiv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Buy the video board from AW. They are a great distributor to deal with. Monitors are really easy to swap parts.


My question is which board do I buy? I don't have a problem installing a new board, I've probably taken the monitor apart atleast 10 times to attempt to get it working again. (works temporarily, but the problem always comes back.)

Here is a video of my problem I made for dream-seller.


----------



## yazoo78

Hello Guys,

I received my monitor yesterday, it's a CrossOver BLACK TUNE 2735AMG IPS LED 27.

I've found major problem and it's a blue/blackish smudge to the left-central area of the screen.

I find it an issue because if i'm writing text/code on a white background all day it's very distracting and can give me a headache.

The seller (accessorieswhole) stated that there is a possibility of dead pixels and back-light bleed. I have some fairly minor back-light bleed. This can be ignored as I rarely have a black screen.

What do you think I should do? I really cannot afford to ship the thing back to South Korea and I've only had the thing for a day, which is very frustrating.

Here's a picture of how it looks (ignore the green, it's the camera, look in the centre)


----------



## Jethric

hey brah's, my Crossover 27Q LED-P pixel perfect monitor has been sitting in my room at home non functional for over a year now, and I finally remembered to request a new power supply for it. Well it finally arrived and my Dad told me that it works.
Just wanted to thank AccessoriesWhole for keeping up with me in an email chain that lasted *over a year* and still sent me a new power brick in the mail free of charge.

Here's apparently what it looks like now. Can't wait to get home.


----------



## yarrh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethric*
> 
> hey brah's, my Crossover 27Q LED-P pixel perfect monitor has been sitting in my room at home non functional for over a year now, and I finally remembered to request a new power supply for it. Well it finally arrived and my Dad told me that it works.
> Just wanted to thank AccessoriesWhole for keeping up with me in an email chain that lasted *over a year* and still sent me a new power brick in the mail free of charge.
> 
> Here's apparently what it looks like now. Can't wait to get home.


They sent me one too. AW is good like that


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roygbiv*
> 
> My question is which board do I buy? I don't have a problem installing a new board, I've probably taken the monitor apart atleast 10 times to attempt to get it working again. (works temporarily, but the problem always comes back.)
> 
> Here is a video of my problem I made for dream-seller.


Looks like a video board issue. It's the largest blue pcb which has all your video inputs and output voltages to your panel/osd/led driver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yazoo78*
> 
> Hello Guys,
> 
> I received my monitor yesterday, it's a CrossOver BLACK TUNE 2735AMG IPS LED 27.
> 
> I've found major problem and it's a blue/blackish smudge to the left-central area of the screen.
> 
> I find it an issue because if i'm writing text/code on a white background all day it's very distracting and can give me a headache.
> 
> The seller (accessorieswhole) stated that there is a possibility of dead pixels and back-light bleed. I have some fairly minor back-light bleed. This can be ignored as I rarely have a black screen.
> 
> What do you think I should do? I really cannot afford to ship the thing back to South Korea and I've only had the thing for a day, which is very frustrating.
> 
> Here's a picture of how it looks (ignore the green, it's the camera, look in the centre)


Bad panel, return for exchange.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yarrh*
> 
> They sent me one too. AW is good like that


Yes, AW is the best distributor. Buy from them!


----------



## schloppidol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schloppidol*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Got my Crossover LEDP just over 13 months ago from AW. Had been working excellently until yesterday when started flickering (backlight I think). Today it went black and stays black.
> Read through this thread and saw some info about the LED board so opened it up and looks like I have the MOSFET issue mentioned:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should work if I can source a new LED board from somewhere right?
> 
> Thanks.


In case anyone was wondering, I have received a replacement board and monitor is back in business!









AccessoriesWhole are awesome!


----------



## itpromike

I'm having an issue with flickering on my CrossOver 2720MDP Gold. I'm guessing it would be the video board as well. How did you go about ordering one from accessories whole? I don't see monitor parts on their ebay seller page. Did you just email them direct and tell them what monitor you needed a video board for or what? Also does anyone know if there are any guides on how to take a 2720 apart? Since it's a plastic bezel monitor it seems it will be more difficult to take apart than the 27Q. I'm hoping a new video board will fix the flickering issue. Flickers for up to 10 minutes when first turned on then it stops and just flickers maybe once every 20 minutes or so. Very Annoying


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itpromike*
> 
> I'm having an issue with flickering on my CrossOver 2720MDP Gold. I'm guessing it would be the video board as well. How did you go about ordering one from accessories whole? I don't see monitor parts on their ebay seller page. Did you just email them direct and tell them what monitor you needed a video board for or what? Also does anyone know if there are any guides on how to take a 2720 apart? Since it's a plastic bezel monitor it seems it will be more difficult to take apart than the 27Q. I'm hoping a new video board will fix the flickering issue. Flickers for up to 10 minutes when first turned on then it stops and just flickers maybe once every 20 minutes or so. Very Annoying


There are several panel flickering symptoms. Video flicker while backlight is at constant brightness. Backlight flicker with video image untouched. Pixel flickering or noise. Is your unit still under warranty? If it is all you need to do is contact AW and send them a picture or short video of the problem. They will then send you a free working video board if that is the issue. All monitors are easy to take apart, even the plastic ones. Simply remove all the screws on the back cover. Pull the front plastic bezel upward with your finger nails. Sometimes if you can't get it started with your fingers use a small flat head. Once you get one clip undone use your fingers the rest of the way pull upward while moving around the bezel. Be careful of the osd button board. Sometimes they are mounted to the front bezel. I tend to start by the osd then unplug the cable. Once you have the front bezel off simply lay the panel face down. (on something soft that won't scratch it) The back cover should lift right off, sometimes you may have to wiggle it free from the i/o. That's pretty much it.


----------



## CyberManiaK

Anyone have this CROSSOVER 27QWHDMI http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-New-27QWHDMI-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-DVI-HDMI-PC-MONITOR-/130976507744?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7ecee760

It's the same as the 27Q Led or is this 27QWHDMI a whole new model ?

Thanks.


----------



## itpromike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> There are several panel flickering symptoms. Video flicker while backlight is at constant brightness. Backlight flicker with video image untouched. Pixel flickering or noise. Is your unit still under warranty? If it is all you need to do is contact AW and send them a picture or short video of the problem. They will then send you a free working video board if that is the issue. All monitors are easy to take apart, even the plastic ones. Simply remove all the screws on the back cover. Pull the front plastic bezel upward with your finger nails. Sometimes if you can't get it started with your fingers use a small flat head. Once you get one clip undone use your fingers the rest of the way pull upward while moving around the bezel. Be careful of the osd button board. Sometimes they are mounted to the front bezel. I tend to start by the osd then unplug the cable. Once you have the front bezel off simply lay the panel face down. (on something soft that won't scratch it) The back cover should lift right off, sometimes you may have to wiggle it free from the i/o. That's pretty much it.


Thanks for the response mate. I made a video of the issue here 



What do you think the issue is based on what's shown in the video? Video board or something else? Thanks for the help.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itpromike*
> 
> Thanks for the response mate. I made a video of the issue here
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think the issue is based on what's shown in the video? Video board or something else? Thanks for the help.


Looks like a faulty video board. I've seen several like this and we had the video board swapped and it fixed the issue. Ask for a newer rev video board. They might have already re engineered a new one.


----------



## modnoob

Does any one know if i should get this crossover or not if so can you list the reasons and possibly another sugestion needs hdmi and dvi
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=121147991855


----------



## Dahl

Just received a Crossover 27q Led-p that I bought from accessorieswhole (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-2560X1440-LG-S-IPS-Panel-QHD-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-PC-Monitor-/111099656780?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de0e3a4c).

Box wasn't damaged in the slightest and had extra packaging.

Opened it up, plugged it in, and was treated to this oh so wonderful display of colors...



Pretty disappointing. Tried swapping cables, ports, and etc. Still no dice. I contacted aw, but haven't heard anything yet.

I am tempted to pop it open to check connections, but I am not sure what aw's stance is on opening it without being asked.

Anyone have any ideas what this might be?


----------



## Swag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> Just received a Crossover 27q Led-p that I bought from accessorieswhole (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-2560X1440-LG-S-IPS-Panel-QHD-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-PC-Monitor-/111099656780?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de0e3a4c).
> 
> Box wasn't damaged in the slightest and had extra packaging.
> 
> Opened it up, plugged it in, and was treated to this oh so wonderful display of colors...
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty disappointing. Tried swapping cables, ports, and etc. Still no dice. I contacted aw, but haven't heard anything yet.
> 
> I am tempted to pop it open to check connections, but I am not sure what aw's stance is on opening it without being asked.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what this might be?


Looks pretty bad, I wouldn't physically alter it unless you get the green light by AW. Keep trying, email them once a day for a friendly reminder for your issue and you should be able to get a refund. I'd get a refund in this case because that monitor looks awful. But don't take this as going away from Crossovers, I have been nothing but satisfied by the 27Q and compared to the price of my U2713HM, it's a no-brainer when I chose which monitor setup to upgrade.


----------



## Dahl

@Swag

Yeah, it seems like so many people have good experiences with the crossovers. I am looking to do a 3 monitor setup (not on the desk from my picture) and this was my trial run to see if I could get away with not buying 1k monitors. Not going well so far









I did leave the monitor on for about 15 minutes just to see what would happen and suddenly it started displaying a picture! Unfortunately, the lines I saw before seem to have burned into the display.

Here are a couple of pics:






Update:

I ran a plasma IR remover for about 45 minutes. The lines aren't completely gone, but are really only visible on blue/gray backgrounds. Not really sure of how to proceed at this point. If they fade completely, great. However, I can't help but wonder what will be happening with this display in a year.

Still on the fence on whether or not I want to order two more of these panels...


----------



## Semus

I didn't read all 609 pages of this thread, but I wanted to know what the difference is between ordering from eBay and ordering from Amazon.com.

Has anyone had a bad experience from buying these on Amazon? Is there a difference in quality? I would rather not take any chances.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dahl*
> 
> @Swag
> 
> Yeah, it seems like so many people have good experiences with the crossovers. I am looking to do a 3 monitor setup (not on the desk from my picture) and this was my trial run to see if I could get away with not buying 1k monitors. Not going well so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did leave the monitor on for about 15 minutes just to see what would happen and suddenly it started displaying a picture! Unfortunately, the lines I saw before seem to have burned into the display.
> 
> Here are a couple of pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update:
> 
> I ran a plasma IR remover for about 45 minutes. The lines aren't completely gone, but are really only visible on blue/gray backgrounds. Not really sure of how to proceed at this point. If they fade completely, great. However, I can't help but wonder what will be happening with this display in a year.
> 
> Still on the fence on whether or not I want to order two more of these panels...


Buy the new crossover BLACK TUNE 2735AMG. Probably fixed all the current issues of the 27Q. You have to realize this was the koreans first build of the crossover and i'm sure now they have made some engineering fixes. Hopefully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> I didn't read all 609 pages of this thread, but I wanted to know what the difference is between ordering from eBay and ordering from Amazon.com.
> 
> Has anyone had a bad experience from buying these on Amazon? Is there a difference in quality? I would rather not take any chances.


Authorized Official Dealer of CROSSOVER. So they just buy from a distributor off ebay such as accessories whole. I personally would buy their latest blacktune model and say way from the 27Q model.


----------



## Semus

Just received my new Crossover 27Q.

The minute I turned it on I was speechless. This is what Apple displays are like? Wow. The colors are amazing.

When I first plugged it in, the front LED turned blue and then red, so I got really scared that I received a bad one. Even the power brick doesn't say the proper numbers. The power brick says "input 230V" "output 24.0V". The model number is FPS0120 - 05A. I don't know how many others received this power brick, but all I can tell you is that it worked. Nowhere on this power brick does it even mention 110V. That's what has me confused. I hope I'm not hurting the monitor having it powered by this brick.

Should I try to find a different power brick or stay with this one since it works?

I couldn't find the power button at first until I went searching for it. I thought it was one of those touch deals, but it turns out that there is a real button on the back side opposite the icon.

I didn't think I would be able to read the text as well as I can, but it's not as small as I thought it would be. I'm still waiting to test some games that I play to see if the FPS drop is worth it. I'm sure it won't be that bad. The only thing I don't like is the fact that there is no on-screen menu. That bugs me. However, if the colors are nearly perfect out of the box then it really shouldn't matter. I can live without it.

I calibrated it the minute I turned it on to see if it would calibrate correctly and sure enough it did. Perfect. I did notice on a completely white background that there is a slight blueish tint on the left side of the screen and then it's even on the rest of the screen. Minor flaw.

Just FYI, I purchased mine from Amazon and it seems to have come from a company named MiseNet or something like that. There aren't too many reviews on Amazon, so I might stick a review up there after a few days. I just hope this monitor holds out. I have heard a lot of horror stories in this thread and I'd hate to have a bad experience. I'm taking a huge risk keeping this monitor because there is no warranty. I only have 30 days to test it and make sure it's going to hold out. We'll see.

Just wanted to post my experience after about a half hour of use. All seems well so far. I'll make another post after about a week or so to let you guys know how it's holding up.

Cheers

P.S. ZERO dead pixels!!!


----------



## kirkgames

great.I plan on answering concerns about overclocking, the power brick, and build quality.thanks


----------



## obiwan-80

Hello guys, sorry for the text but I'm using a translator, I'm Italian.
I just purchased a new crossover model, the 27qw, I took it from the big ...
He said that in not prove it was faulty then sent it to me, and I have to wait 1-4 days, since I often just that it was a gift and to control it well.


----------



## Semus

I am going to replay here just to show my experience with the 27Q so far. Here is the thread that describes the issue I am having (minor flaw and not a deal breaker for me)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1424286/crossover-27q-blueish-tint-on-left-side-only-with-a-white-background

After some further calibration I managed to get this tint to a minimum. I feel like it's in a good spot right now. I'll post again as more time passes.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> Just received my new Crossover 27Q.
> 
> The minute I turned it on I was speechless. This is what Apple displays are like? Wow. The colors are amazing.
> 
> When I first plugged it in, the front LED turned blue and then red, so I got really scared that I received a bad one. Even the power brick doesn't say the proper numbers. The power brick says "input 230V" "output 24.0V". The model number is FPS0120 - 05A. I don't know how many others received this power brick, but all I can tell you is that it worked. Nowhere on this power brick does it even mention 110V. That's what has me confused. I hope I'm not hurting the monitor having it powered by this brick.
> 
> Should I try to find a different power brick or stay with this one since it works?
> 
> I couldn't find the power button at first until I went searching for it. I thought it was one of those touch deals, but it turns out that there is a real button on the back side opposite the icon.
> 
> I didn't think I would be able to read the text as well as I can, but it's not as small as I thought it would be. I'm still waiting to test some games that I play to see if the FPS drop is worth it. I'm sure it won't be that bad. The only thing I don't like is the fact that there is no on-screen menu. That bugs me. However, if the colors are nearly perfect out of the box then it really shouldn't matter. I can live without it.
> 
> I calibrated it the minute I turned it on to see if it would calibrate correctly and sure enough it did. Perfect. I did notice on a completely white background that there is a slight blueish tint on the left side of the screen and then it's even on the rest of the screen. Minor flaw.
> 
> Just FYI, I purchased mine from Amazon and it seems to have come from a company named MiseNet or something like that. There aren't too many reviews on Amazon, so I might stick a review up there after a few days. I just hope this monitor holds out. I have heard a lot of horror stories in this thread and I'd hate to have a bad experience. I'm taking a huge risk keeping this monitor because there is no warranty. I only have 30 days to test it and make sure it's going to hold out. We'll see.
> 
> Just wanted to post my experience after about a half hour of use. All seems well so far. I'll make another post after about a week or so to let you guys know how it's holding up.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> P.S. ZERO dead pixels!!!


When I first plugged it in, the front LED turned blue and then red, so I got really scared that I received a bad one. Even the power brick doesn't say the proper numbers. The power brick says "input 230V" "output 24.0V". The model number is FPS0120 - 05A. I don't know how many others received this power brick, but all I can tell you is that it worked. Nowhere on this power brick does it even mention 110V. That's what has me confused. I hope I'm not hurting the monitor having it powered by this brick.

Should I try to find a different power brick or stay with this one since it works?

The video boards input is 24Vdc. Your power supply is 24Vdc output. The power supply lists the maximum power input which is 230Vac which your ac outlet is probably 120Vac which is perfectly fine. You have 110Vac~230Vac (Auto phasing range) going into the power supply and 24Vdc coming out of the power supply this is normal....


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> When I first plugged it in, the front LED turned blue and then red, so I got really scared that I received a bad one. Even the power brick doesn't say the proper numbers. The power brick says "input 230V" "output 24.0V". The model number is FPS0120 - 05A. I don't know how many others received this power brick, but all I can tell you is that it worked. Nowhere on this power brick does it even mention 110V. That's what has me confused. I hope I'm not hurting the monitor having it powered by this brick.
> 
> Should I try to find a different power brick or stay with this one since it works?
> 
> The video boards input is 24Vdc. Your power supply is 24Vdc output. The power supply lists the maximum power input which is 230Vac which your ac outlet is probably 120Vac which is perfectly fine. You have 110Vac~230Vac (Auto phasing range) going into the power supply and 24Vdc coming out of the power supply this is normal....


I appreciate the response and info. The reason I was concerned is that the power brick gets really hot after awhile. I was just concerned this wasn't normal behavior. Thanks for clarification.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> I appreciate the response and info. The reason I was concerned is that the power brick gets really hot after awhile. I was just concerned this wasn't normal behavior. Thanks for clarification.


No problem. It's normal for sealed power supplies/bricks to get really really hot.


----------



## Futzy

Want to share my experience, I got my crossover around June of last year and started having the common fadeout problem around January of this year. I bought from AW and they were quite supportive, mailed me 3 replacement PCBs, two driver boards and a control board. The first two attempts, the control board and the driver board brought no change, but after getting the second replacement driver board in June the problem still exists but it's no longer much of an issue. I don't remember revision number of this board but each one I received was different. Before it would start fading out after random intervals of time from days to weeks and when it started doing that it would fade out after turning it off/on for hours/days, now it's only done it twice since the new replacement, but instead of fading out indefinitely when it did start fading out, it now only fades out once, not repeatedly. So as far as I'm concerned, if the full issue does not return, I'm quite happy with my purchase and service, at least until I get myself an Oculus Rift


----------



## Semus

I want to go ahead and reply here with my overall experience with the Crossover 27Q.

I purchased mine from Amazon.com from a seller called Mise Net. My monitor had a slight blue-ish tint to the left side and on top spreading to the left side as seen in another thread. It's not something I can't live with if it were my second monitor and I'm thinking of just keeping it. However, at first I was disappointed and decided to exchange it. After sending Mise net an email about the situation they never responded. I gave them 5 days and nothing. After Amazon got involved and filed an A-Z claim, Mise Net miraculously contacted me the next day asking for pictures of the defect so they could determine the best course of action. After sending them the picture of the blue tint, I never heard back from them. So, I decided I would just rather have a full refund instead and I emailed them to tell them that. They emailed me this afternoon and said that they were a bit confused about what I initially wanted and that a refund would be possible. So, they sent me a prepaid label to print out to return the monitor to their return center in Los Angeles. Thank GOD I didn't have to pay to send it back to Korea.

After printing the label I started thinking about this whole ordeal and how it would have been so simple just to decided to keep it and use it as a second monitor. I'm not sure if I still want to do that, but I am definitely thinking about it.

I just wanted to post my experience with this seller. If you want to exchange your monitor for another one, they are going to be a PAIN. However, if you want a refund, that's another story. Or, it could just be that after Amazon got involved they changed their tune.

I'll keep you posted on what I decide to do with it. I kinda want to keep it, but I could use the extra $390 I paid for the damn thing. Ugh, decisions decisions.

Has anyone here managed to get a Crossover 27Q to OC to 96HZ? Do they OC at all?


----------



## itpromike

Ok so today I turned the monitor on and it flickered non-stop for like 45 minutes, it's definitely time to replace the video board me thinks. I'm real nervous about taking this thing a part but I contacted AW and they've asked me to take a picture of the video board for them so I guess I must take it apart. I was hoping to only have to do it once, when I got the new part but oh well I guess. Any suggestions or tips before I take this thing apart?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> Want to share my experience, I got my crossover around June of last year and started having the common fadeout problem around January of this year. I bought from AW and they were quite supportive, mailed me 3 replacement PCBs, two driver boards and a control board. The first two attempts, the control board and the driver board brought no change, but after getting the second replacement driver board in June the problem still exists but it's no longer much of an issue. I don't remember revision number of this board but each one I received was different. Before it would start fading out after random intervals of time from days to weeks and when it started doing that it would fade out after turning it off/on for hours/days, now it's only done it twice since the new replacement, but instead of fading out indefinitely when it did start fading out, it now only fades out once, not repeatedly. So as far as I'm concerned, if the full issue does not return, I'm quite happy with my purchase and service, at least until I get myself an Oculus Rift


When you say control board the actual term is the video board or main board. Not sure what fadeout is but it sounds like the video would go out, back light too? What color is the LED on the osd when it "fades out"? If the video is going out and the panel still has backlight it is either the video board, faulty lvds cable or logic board (video board receiver on panel).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semus*
> 
> I want to go ahead and reply here with my overall experience with the Crossover 27Q.
> 
> I purchased mine from Amazon.com from a seller called Mise Net. My monitor had a slight blue-ish tint to the left side and on top spreading to the left side as seen in another thread. It's not something I can't live with if it were my second monitor and I'm thinking of just keeping it. However, at first I was disappointed and decided to exchange it. After sending Mise net an email about the situation they never responded. I gave them 5 days and nothing. After Amazon got involved and filed an A-Z claim, Mise Net miraculously contacted me the next day asking for pictures of the defect so they could determine the best course of action. After sending them the picture of the blue tint, I never heard back from them. So, I decided I would just rather have a full refund instead and I emailed them to tell them that. They emailed me this afternoon and said that they were a bit confused about what I initially wanted and that a refund would be possible. So, they sent me a prepaid label to print out to return the monitor to their return center in Los Angeles. Thank GOD I didn't have to pay to send it back to Korea.
> 
> After printing the label I started thinking about this whole ordeal and how it would have been so simple just to decided to keep it and use it as a second monitor. I'm not sure if I still want to do that, but I am definitely thinking about it.
> 
> I just wanted to post my experience with this seller. If you want to exchange your monitor for another one, they are going to be a PAIN. However, if you want a refund, that's another story. Or, it could just be that after Amazon got involved they changed their tune.
> 
> I'll keep you posted on what I decide to do with it. I kinda want to keep it, but I could use the extra $390 I paid for the damn thing. Ugh, decisions decisions.
> 
> Has anyone here managed to get a Crossover 27Q to OC to 96HZ? Do they OC at all?


The 27Q was full of problems. Bad video boards and a known engineering over heating issue with the mosfet on the led driver board. Get the new updated model BLACK TUNE. STOP BUYING THE 27Q people!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itpromike*
> 
> Ok so today I turned the monitor on and it flickered non-stop for like 45 minutes, it's definitely time to replace the video board me thinks. I'm real nervous about taking this thing a part but I contacted AW and they've asked me to take a picture of the video board for them so I guess I must take it apart. I was hoping to only have to do it once, when I got the new part but oh well I guess. Any suggestions or tips before I take this thing apart?


Sounds like the video board or the LED driver. If you still have the REV 0 led driver then it needs to be replaced with the new REV ASAP! This monitor is the easiest monitor to take apart IMO. There is only screws! Not plastic tabs and clips. Tip: Lay face down, unscrew the stand, unscrew the back panel and both center side panels. Done.


----------



## Semus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Get the new updated model BLACK TUNE. STOP BUYING THE 27Q people!


I'm actually going to return the Crossover for a full refund. I have purchased the X-Star DP2710 instead and hopefully it will be here on Friday. /fingers crossed.

I should have never purchased the 27Q in hindsight. It was more expensive than the Qnix or X-Star and imo does not look as good. I placed the 27Q next to my QX2710 and you can really see the difference. The crossover is not as bright and mine had weird discoloration. Very unnatural looking. The QX2710 really is a great monitor, but I decided to go with X-Star this time because numerous people have reported that the X-Star does not have the back light bleeding issue that the Qnix seems to have. My QX2710 had horrible BLB until I took the front casing off and did some tweaking.

So, I'm following the advice of some and am going to stay away from the 27Q from now on. Good by and good riddance. I just hope others do not have the issues that I did.


----------



## itpromike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Sounds like the video board or the LED driver. If you still have the REV 0 led driver then it needs to be replaced with the new REV ASAP! This monitor is the easiest monitor to take apart IMO. There is only screws! Not plastic tabs and clips. Tip: Lay face down, unscrew the stand, unscrew the back panel and both center side panels. Done.


Once I've opened it up how do I tell the difference be the video board board the LED driver? What distinguishes them?


----------



## RustInPieces

I am thinking about getting the 27Q LED-P, but I am worried about all the issues people are having with it. I really want a monitor with pivot for manga/ comic reading. I do not see a Black Tune with pivot. Do any of the Qnix or X-Star monitors have pivot?
Also, can I use this monitor at a non native resolution? I might have to use 1920x1080 in games if my GPU can't handle 1440p (6950 2 GB)

I would prefer an X-Star or Qnix if they have a pivot, because I would like to overclock the refresh rate.

edit: I'll get an X-Star and buy an aftermarket VESA pivot mount


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itpromike*
> 
> Once I've opened it up how do I tell the difference be the video board board the LED driver? What distinguishes them?


The video board or mainboard has all your video inputs. (VGA, HDMI, DVI, DP) It's the largest board in a monitor usually. So just look for the DVI input on the board. The led driver board is about 4-5 inches in length and 1-2 inches wide. Theres a output cable from the video board that supplies 12-24Vdc and output on the led driver to the panel usually above 24Vdc to power the leds. Also on the pcb it should be silk screened (LED DRIVER, MAINBOARD)


----------



## pamparam

Hello. When I am checking all 27 2560x1440 crossover monitors on ebay in all descriptions it is said that those monitors are not compatible with laptops.
I am planning to buy http://www.asus.com/Notebooks_Ultrabooks/ASUS_ROG_G750JX/#overview this laptop and would like to know if it really is impossible to buy mini displayport to dual link dvi and connect those crossover monitors to that laptop?
http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-770m/specifications here it says DisplayPort Multimode Support : Up to 3840x2160
maybe there are some certain models which is easier to connect to laptop? wouldn`t want to sped more than 400$ on monitor tho.
just want to be sure before buying that laptop. would appreciate any help.


----------



## Mutantx

just went and ordered a blacktune 2735m (from bigclothcraft) - excited to have it delivered now and a little nervous it will be issue free !


----------



## Red1

Hey pamparam,

Check out this link 



 and skip to 10:20

The answer is that no it wont work with display port. I personally haven't tested with display port but I tried with dual link DVI to HDMI to connect my Xbox but no success. It didn't work unfortunately. I think they sell one with an HDMI port but I don't know if it will output 2560X1440 or if its limited to 1920X1080 when using HDMI


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1*
> 
> Hey pamparam,
> 
> Check out this link
> 
> 
> 
> and skip to 10:20
> 
> The answer is that no it wont work with display port. I personally haven't tested with display port but I tried with dual link DVI to HDMI to connect my Xbox but no success. It didn't work unfortunately. I think they sell one with an HDMI port but I don't know if it will output 2560X1440 or if its limited to 1920X1080 when using HDMI


You do realize that those are two completely different things right? His Laptops GPU stats state that it supports up to 3840x2160. I know for a fact the XBOX can't go that high. But while I don't know know for sure, it certainly sounds like that _should_ work. I'd wait for someone else to chime in or maybe start another thread.


----------



## Red1

You are missing my point here. Its not the GPU's fault. The adapters simply don't work with that monitor. The Crossover 27"Q has the same port as the one in the video, which is a dual link DVI and as shown in the video none of the adapters works.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pamparam*
> 
> Hello. When I am checking all 27 2560x1440 crossover monitors on ebay in all descriptions it is said that those monitors are not compatible with laptops.
> I am planning to buy http://www.asus.com/Notebooks_Ultrabooks/ASUS_ROG_G750JX/#overview this laptop and would like to know if it really is impossible to buy mini displayport to dual link dvi and connect those crossover monitors to that laptop?
> http://www.geforce.com/hardware/notebook-gpus/geforce-gtx-770m/specifications here it says DisplayPort Multimode Support : Up to 3840x2160
> maybe there are some certain models which is easier to connect to laptop? wouldn`t want to sped more than 400$ on monitor tho.
> just want to be sure before buying that laptop. would appreciate any help.


I am pretty sure it will not work. I have ran into where some active adapters work and some don't. It's a hit or miss. The video that Red1 posted doesn't mean it will not work. The guy in the video only tested one type of DP to D-DVI. I heard it should work with a scaler. Also why are you looking at the 27Q model? The 27Q has been out for a long time and there are much more reliable, slimmer, brighter and higher bit mode models crossover makes. I would suggest going with the crossover blacktune model. It's not 8 bit (24 bit true 16.7 mil colors) like the 27Q panel. It's full out 10 bit (30 bit! 1.07 bil colors) and i don't think theres a frc added either. I believe the video board really supports 30 bit color.


----------



## hueys

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-New-Crossover-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-AH-IPS-/130978066076?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7ee6ae9c

Does anyone know whether this display is glossy or matte? I looked through the entire page and couldn't find anything :/


----------



## Mutantx

i almost bought that one last week Hueys but after reading this thread i went for the model above it "black tune" as it has less potential issues. It just arrived yesterday and its blown me away - so glad i took the risk.


----------



## hueys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mutantx*
> 
> i almost bought that one last week Hueys but after reading this thread i went for the model above it "black tune" as it has less potential issues. It just arrived yesterday and its blown me away - so glad i took the risk.


Just wondering, which concerns caused you to not buy the other monitor? I haven't heard much feedback on these ah-ips panels since they seem to be quite new.


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hueys*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-New-Crossover-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-AH-IPS-/130978066076?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7ee6ae9c
> 
> Does anyone know whether this display is glossy or matte? I looked through the entire page and couldn't find anything :/


I have the crossover 27qw and the display itself is glossy. Its advertised plasma glass decomposition feature was just a sham, but at least the monitor itself isn't! This monitor seems to be a bit more color accurate than the qnix. However, I enjoy the slightly warmer colors of the qnix qx2710's. You can't go wrong with both of them, and I got the multi-input version of this crossover! It's pretty good in build and looks. That silver bezel can be a bit distracting, but since it's not plastic, I can live with that.

Some pics





The bezel and the screen of the crossover's. I can't provide photos for reflection yet, but it is glossy. If there are anymore questions let me know, I will probably post a review thread of this monitor after I compare it to the 27q and qnix2710. The multi-input, btw, doesn't feel any less responsive than the monitors with a single dvi-d input. That's my own opinion, however, I probably don't notice the lag as competitive players do.


----------



## Red1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlenbo*
> 
> I have the crossover 27qw and the display itself is glossy. Its advertised plasma glass decomposition feature was just a sham, but at least the monitor itself isn't! This monitor seems to be a bit more color accurate than the qnix. However, I enjoy the slightly warmer colors of the qnix qx2710's. You can't go wrong with both of them, and I got the multi-input version of this crossover! It's pretty good in build and looks. That silver bezel can be a bit distracting, but since it's not plastic, I can live with that.
> 
> Some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bezel and the screen of the crossover's. I can't provide photos for reflection yet, but it is glossy. If there are anymore questions let me know, I will probably post a review thread of this monitor after I compare it to the 27q and qnix2710. The multi-input, btw, doesn't feel any less responsive than the monitors with a single dvi-d input. That's my own opinion, however, I probably don't notice the lag as competitive players do.


Quick question.You mentioned that the silver bezel is metal but is the rest of the housing all metal,like the 27q, or did they switch to plastic?


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1*
> 
> Quick question.You mentioned that the silver bezel is metal but is the rest of the housing all metal,like the 27q, or did they switch to plastic?


Just the front I'm afraid. The back is made of plastic, but durable one at that. It is the same type that is found in the qnix qx2710.

P.S. it is also slim! Shaves off a few mms from the qnix's thick build. Unfortunately, there is a 2mm increase ont he bezel size of the crossover in comparison to the qnix's.


----------



## hueys

Thanks for the pics. I would love to see a review of this monitor, especially since I have a qnix right now and I'm wondering if it's worth to try this one or get another qnix.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mutantx*
> 
> i almost bought that one last week Hueys but after reading this thread i went for the model above it "black tune" as it has less potential issues. It just arrived yesterday and its blown me away - so glad i took the risk.


Blacktune is probably the best model crossover makes. Glad to hear you like it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlenbo*
> 
> I have the crossover 27qw and the display itself is glossy. Its advertised plasma glass decomposition feature was just a sham, but at least the monitor itself isn't! This monitor seems to be a bit more color accurate than the qnix. However, I enjoy the slightly warmer colors of the qnix qx2710's. You can't go wrong with both of them, and I got the multi-input version of this crossover! It's pretty good in build and looks. That silver bezel can be a bit distracting, but since it's not plastic, I can live with that.
> 
> Some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bezel and the screen of the crossover's. I can't provide photos for reflection yet, but it is glossy. If there are anymore questions let me know, I will probably post a review thread of this monitor after I compare it to the 27q and qnix2710. The multi-input, btw, doesn't feel any less responsive than the monitors with a single dvi-d input. That's my own opinion, however, I probably don't notice the lag as competitive players do.


You can adjust the color settings in your video driver properties. (desktop color settings) Also since you are running win7 there is a built in color calibration. Just do a search in the start menu, calibrate.


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Blacktune is probably the best model crossover makes. Glad to hear you like it.
> You can adjust the color settings in your video driver properties. (desktop color settings) Also since you are running win7 there is a built in color calibration. Just do a search in the start menu, calibrate.


Cool, I didn't know that. I will check it out when I figure out the OSD settings.

Btw, does anyone know if it is normal for my game to perform sluggish when I'm in HDMI mode? Changing connections to DVI-D has fixed the issue, but I was wondering the reason for that weird frame drop. I was only playing tekken vs street fighter, and it decided to perform at its worst. Alt-tabbing(or switching) to the desktop and back to the game has fixed the performance, until I lose the match and restart my character selection again.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlenbo*
> 
> Cool, I didn't know that. I will check it out when I figure out the OSD settings.
> 
> Btw, does anyone know if it is normal for my game to perform sluggish when I'm in HDMI mode? Changing connections to DVI-D has fixed the issue, but I was wondering the reason for that weird frame drop. I was only playing tekken vs street fighter, and it decided to perform at its worst. Alt-tabbing(or switching) to the desktop and back to the game has fixed the performance, until I lose the match and restart my character selection again.


If you have contrast/color settings programing for osd please use built in controller chip on video board for calibration. I was under the impression you only had pwr on/off and brightness + -

What version of HDMI cable are you using? Does this happen in all of your games or just this game? It has to be version 1.3 or higher and dual link not single. Sounds like you have a old/incompatible hdmi cable. Another question, why are you using hdmi if you can use dvi....is it audio? Both are digital signals no difference besides audio through hdmi and the interface. I would first use a new hdmi cable, don't cheap out. If the new cable doesn't solve the low fps then I would try updating your video driver. Please list the specifications of your video output device. I will get this resolved for you.


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> If you have contrast/color settings programing for osd please use built in controller chip on video board for calibration. I was under the impression you only had pwr on/off and brightness + -
> 
> What version of HDMI cable are you using? Does this happen in all of your games or just this game? It has to be version 1.3 or higher and dual link not single. Sounds like you have a old/incompatible hdmi cable. Another question, why are you using hdmi if you can use dvi....is it audio? Both are digital signals no difference besides audio through hdmi and the interface. I would first use a new hdmi cable, don't cheap out. If the new cable doesn't solve the low fps then I would try updating your video driver. Please list the specifications of your video output device. I will get this resolved for you.


Yup, I do, and will post pictures of it soon enough, a bit busy at the moment.

Apparently, a new hdmi version. Since it only supports resolutions up to 3840,2760 (as my monitor has the opportunity to downsample at that resolution), I would have to assume it is a 1.4a or b. I can't really tell since the product did not state its version. I had to buy it when it mentioned that 4k was supported since I know that the latest hdmi cable (besides 2.0), was supported. I will switch cables with a friend of mine who also has one in hand. I probably didn't seat it in properly either, but i already switched back to dvi.

I used the hdmi cable for two reasons. Its simplicity (inserting a dvi is less tasking than an hdmi imo), and to test its effeciency (I do not have a console or blu-ray player and was curious to see if the hdmi port actually worked). Then I loafed around with the monitor and neglected to switch back until three games slowed me down. I played rogue legacy, and it didn't slow down, but when tekken, Basition (great game), and super mario sunshine on the emulator (awesome color test imo), I found out that the choppyness was due to hdmi. Though I presume that my computer could not run the dolphin emulator very well, so it seems that only bastion and tekken vs street fighter had a rough time.

Also, wanted to test the audio of the monitor, and it sounds like what everyone has been saying. Nothing special and even worse than portable speakers in volume and quality.

The only specifications of the output device was that it could support 4k, 3d, and something that slipped my mind. I believe the brand is this one. http://www.iogear.com/product/GHDC1402P/ Thank you for replying.


----------



## Physics2007

I have Crossover 27Q and it's black when I connect it to MSI Z87 Xpower I/O ports. But I have no problem when it connected to videocard such as 8800GTX or GXT 560.
I use dual link cable in both cases, but when I connect it to motherboard I use HDMI-DVI cable instead of DVI-DVI cable when connect to external card.
Of course I get external card out, when use internal CPU graphics.

As to whole problem, there's some features when 27Q is connected to motherboard:
1. 27Q can display any messages in DOS mode (640x480 8bit) and windows loading animation in this mode. Although, desktop could be displayed as long as you not installing intel HD 4600 drivers and max resolution then is 640x480 8bit too.
2.Neither UEFI MSI bios logo/ BIOS setup can be displayed any means nor windows desktop when you have installed intel HD 4600 drivers, even if you load windows in safe mode or restrict resolution to 640x480.

So, when noting displayed, backlight led blinking as should during windows loading, but screen is dark with black picture (dark as BSOD when you bricked a videocard).
What do you think could it be fix simply or I need to buy a videocard?


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlenbo*
> 
> I have the crossover 27qw and the display itself is glossy. Its advertised plasma glass decomposition feature was just a sham, but at least the monitor itself isn't! This monitor seems to be a bit more color accurate than the qnix. However, I enjoy the slightly warmer colors of the qnix qx2710's. You can't go wrong with both of them, and I got the multi-input version of this crossover! It's pretty good in build and looks. That silver bezel can be a bit distracting, but since it's not plastic, I can live with that.
> 
> Some pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bezel and the screen of the crossover's. I can't provide photos for reflection yet, but it is glossy. If there are anymore questions let me know, I will probably post a review thread of this monitor after I compare it to the 27q and qnix2710. The multi-input, btw, doesn't feel any less responsive than the monitors with a single dvi-d input. That's my own opinion, however, I probably don't notice the lag as competitive players do.


I got one of these too, single input model.... the silver is a bit annoying.... Im thinking of getting some piece of black felt to cover it up....

So this monitor has a glossy coating you were saying? I had no idea im kind of new to the monitor game.

I ordered the pixel perf version from accessorieswhole and it came pixel perfect but just today I think it has developed a dead pixel







after only 15 days


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlenbo*
> 
> Yup, I do, and will post pictures of it soon enough, a bit busy at the moment.
> 
> Apparently, a new hdmi version. Since it only supports resolutions up to 3840,2760 (as my monitor has the opportunity to downsample at that resolution), I would have to assume it is a 1.4a or b. I can't really tell since the product did not state its version. I had to buy it when it mentioned that 4k was supported since I know that the latest hdmi cable (besides 2.0), was supported. I will switch cables with a friend of mine who also has one in hand. I probably didn't seat it in properly either, but i already switched back to dvi.
> 
> I used the hdmi cable for two reasons. Its simplicity (inserting a dvi is less tasking than an hdmi imo), and to test its effeciency (I do not have a console or blu-ray player and was curious to see if the hdmi port actually worked). Then I loafed around with the monitor and neglected to switch back until three games slowed me down. I played rogue legacy, and it didn't slow down, but when tekken, Basition (great game), and super mario sunshine on the emulator (awesome color test imo), I found out that the choppyness was due to hdmi. Though I presume that my computer could not run the dolphin emulator very well, so it seems that only bastion and tekken vs street fighter had a rough time.
> 
> Also, wanted to test the audio of the monitor, and it sounds like what everyone has been saying. Nothing special and even worse than portable speakers in volume and quality.
> 
> The only specifications of the output device was that it could support 4k, 3d, and something that slipped my mind. I believe the brand is this one. http://www.iogear.com/product/GHDC1402P/ Thank you for replying.


It sound like it just may be the two games and how the driver of your video device handles video though hdmi interface as well as the program. IMO if you are not constantly plugging and unplugging your video cable then I would use DVI-D. The integrated speakers in the monitor can't be great either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Physics2007*
> 
> I have Crossover 27Q and it's black when I connect it to MSI Z87 Xpower I/O ports. But I have no problem when it connected to videocard such as 8800GTX or GXT 560.
> I use dual link cable in both cases, but when I connect it to motherboard I use HDMI-DVI cable instead of DVI-DVI cable when connect to external card.
> Of course I get external card out, when use internal CPU graphics.
> 
> *HDMI-DVI? Does this mean you are using a HDMI to DVI passive adapter with a DVI male/male cable? DVI-DVI? Does this mean you are using a male/male DVI cable from your video card output (dvi)to input on your monitor(dvi)*
> 
> As to whole problem, there's some features when 27Q is connected to motherboard:
> 1. 27Q can display any messages in DOS mode (640x480 8bit) and windows loading animation in this mode. *Splash screen*Although, desktop could be displayed as long as you not installing intel HD 4600 drivers and max resolution then is 640x480 8bit too.
> 2.Neither UEFI MSI bios logo/ BIOS setup can be displayed any means nor windows desktop when you have installed intel HD 4600 drivers, even if you load windows in safe mode or restrict resolution to 640x480.
> 
> So, when noting displayed, backlight led blinking as should during windows loading, but screen is dark with black picture (dark as BSOD when you bricked a videocard).
> What do you think could it be fix simply or I need to buy a videocard?


You have hdmi1 hdmi2 and Display port. Do you have auto log on enabled? When you use the built in windows video driver (not intel HD driver) it works and displays. Correct? When you install HD 4600 nothing will display? You should at least get video when you install the drivers. It may not be the correct resolution but there should be video. I have seen motherboards with multiple onboard video ports not set correctly in the bios. When you do not set a primary onboard video device and you leave it to bios auto default it will select an output video device automatically (auto detect) Sounds like when it is loading windows splash screen it reverts to what ever is set in the bios when windows logs into desktop.(display port) Make sure you have properly configured your video settings in the bios. I would set video device PCI, PCIE, onboard. (set to onboard) There should be primary, secondary and a third option to set. I would set primary to hdmi1 secondary to hdmi2. What I will do tomorrow is grab a HDMI to DVI passive adapter from work and test it with my intel 4k HD onboard through HDMI. (ivy)


----------



## ehpexs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Have you tried directly plugging it into your video output device/video card? Since the panel still has backlight from the led driver board it looks like it is your video board. The blue led is lit so it is still receiving a video signal. If it were outputting no voltage on the voltage pins on the lvds connector the led would still stay lit (blue). This is what our video boards do where I work. When the lvds cable is unplugged the osd button board will stay lit blue/green because it records the input signal to the video board not the output signal to the panel. So it appears you have a faulty video board. Lets just say I have seen the led drivers fail and video boards fail in the 27Qs. I have yet to see a bad lg panel.
> Buy the video board from AW. They are a great distributor to deal with. Monitors are really easy to swap parts.


Would a bad video board be causing these problems?


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Question for you all- I jumped on the Crossover bandwagon but went with a 320D GameKing (should arrive in the next couple of days). I'm hard pressed to find any reviews of the monitor, and if it will work with a display port adapter (if every thing goes as it should I might swap out my 24" eyefinity setup for a 32" one)


----------



## Physics2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> HDMI-DVI? Does this mean you are using a HDMI to DVI passive adapter with a DVI male/male cable? DVI-DVI? Does this mean you are using a male/male DVI cable from your video card output (dvi)to input on your monitor(dvi)


yes, it seems hdmi-dvi passive adapter with male-female accordingly.
My looks exactly as that - http://www.ebay.com/itm/271275471678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> When you use the built in windows video driver (not intel HD driver) it works and displays.


Not exactly that, it's not built in driver - it's default display adapter driver. I cut built in drivers for nvidia, amd and intel graphics from windows iso ... but the main problem isn't in windows.
I want to overclock my CPU and can't view BIOS setup!
So, I can't even configure BIOS when I use 4770K graphics.

When I use external adapter I set "display first" "IGP" and then restart with or without card - result is the same, I can see windows in 640x480 through motherboard HDMI but not BIOS or POST.
Also I tried to set support of multiple displays on for internal graphics but it doesn't work too.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs*
> 
> Would a bad video board be causing these problems?


It looks like it still has backlight to me which makes me believe it is a bad video board. It may not be sending correct voltage to panel. I would still check the led driver board and make sure you have the new revision. The old revisions mosfet will overheat and fail after 6 months to a year depending on the use of the monitor. The old revision is a blue pcb labeled Digital Wave LED DRIVER BOARD REV 00 (silk screen). If it is the old revision I highly recommend you contact your seller and send pictures of the mosfet/back of pcb.( it should be brown from overheating) You may need a new led driver and video board.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Physics2007*
> 
> yes, it seems hdmi-dvi passive adapter with male-female accordingly.
> My looks exactly as that - http://www.ebay.com/itm/271275471678
> Not exactly that, it's not built in driver - it's default display adapter driver. I cut built in drivers for nvidia, amd and intel graphics from windows iso confused... but the main problem isn't in windows.
> I want to overclock my CPU and can't view BIOS setup!
> So, I can't even configure BIOS when I use 4770K graphics.
> 
> When I use external adapter I set "display first" "IGP" and then restart with or without card - result is the same, I can see windows in 640x480 through motherboard HDMI but not BIOS or POST. You will need to set more than IGP. MSI motherboards have primary and secondary and default auto detect. What you set is common on every motherboard. You need to look under video configuration.
> Also I tried to set support of multiple displays on for internal graphics but it doesn't work too.Assuming this is in windows? You have to have two display devices (monitors) for that option to work. Did you have two monitors connected?


Things to check in bios:

*Advanced*
Integrated Graphics Configuration
Enter and set accordingly

Virtu Technology *[Disabled]*

IGD Multi-Monitor *[Disabled]*

*Boot*
Full Screen Logo Display *[DISABLE]*

All gui based OS have a built in standard VGA driver. If they did not then video would never be displayed on the screen if the manufactures driver was not installed. When you boot in safe mode or VGA mode it disables the manufactures driver and uses the built in windows standard VGA driver. Sounds like very simular problems I have encountered. The onboard video ports aren't set properly (unless all are autodetect when power to motherboard) If it is not set it will default to dispay port, (black screen) after post windows will autodetect the monitor through the driver and display windows. I have also encountered the problem on a certain korean video board where it would not display post but windows splash screen and desktop only. We solved this by flashing it to force autodetect on power up on both DVI and hdmi input ports. As soon as the board is powered on it searches for a video signal sent from motherboard. I would grab a known working monitor and use the same procedure to try and replicate the issue. If it works with another monitor it may be a compatibility issue of the video board in the crossover and your motherboard. Make sure you flash your bios to the latest version on msi website.


----------



## Physics2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Assuming this is in windows? You have to have two display devices (monitors) for that option to work. Did you have two monitors connected?


No, I tried to set it because I thought another settings could help me to see picture.

it's my settings when I try to work with internal graphics


as to drivers - you can customize your win 7 iso using rt7lite program, don't think problem in windows due to that. As you state beneath, I left built in standard VGA driver in iso and cut drivers, which I should install in any case.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> All gui based OS have a built in standard VGA driver. If they did not then video would never be displayed on the screen if the manufactures driver was not installed. When you boot in safe mode or VGA mode it disables the manufactures driver and uses the built in windows standard VGA driver. Sounds like very simular problems I have encountered. The onboard video ports aren't set properly (unless all are autodetect when power to motherboard) If it is not set it will default to dispay port, (black screen) after post windows will autodetect the monitor through the driver and display windows. I have also encountered the problem on a certain korean video board where it would not display post but windows splash screen and desktop only. We solved this by flashing it to force autodetect on power up on both DVI and hdmi input ports. As soon as the board is powered on it searches for a video signal sent from motherboard. I would grab a known working monitor and use the same procedure to try and replicate the issue. If it works with another monitor it may be a compatibility issue of the video board in the crossover and your motherboard. Make sure you flash your bios to the latest version on msi website.


Yes, I theoretically could grab monitor, but I'm from Russia, here aren't many people with 27 displays among my friends, exactly none=)
And I think it'll be perfectly worked, it needn't to test another monitor.

Your assumption about displayport is similar to mine, I want to use adapter to DVI and try. I think I will have it in 3-5 days to test.
My colleague said that 27Q have some problems with scaling and this probably is a main problem.

As to windows 640x480 (through f8) mode: you quite right that drivers of HD4600 is disabled, but you probably forget about colour depth, it's not a 8bit in this mode. However, It was noticed 27Q can work in 640x480 8bit through hdmi
It also can represent UEFI Shell, because it have 640x480 8bit resolution. But it can't represent BIOS, because it have resolution 1024x768

...
it seems displayport is more capable in data transfer rate terms.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Need a little help- Got my Crossover in yesterday, went to set it up and it doesn't have a power brick like what I see on everyone else's, its using a.... built in plug. As in I can't remove it, so I guess I'll need to get a adapter I just can't figure out which one, and I don't feel like paying 20+ for universal one that fits "most" foreign configurations (already tried that and have to take it back to where I purchased it as it doesn't have the plug type I need)


----------



## Mutantx

Had the Blacktune for a week now - still love it but found a few tiny problems

1. where the glass meets the metal frame at the bottom its does not 100 % join smooth/flat
2. i have found 2 tiny "spots" on the screen they are hard to describe its not dirt and its not BLB - it almost looks like its under the glass - any idea's?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Physics2007*
> 
> No, I tried to set it because I thought another settings could help me to see picture.
> 
> it's my settings when I try to work with internal graphics
> 
> 
> as to drivers - you can customize your win 7 iso using rt7lite program, don't think problem in windows due to that. As you state beneath, I left built in standard VGA driver in iso and cut drivers, which I should install in any case.
> Yes, I theoretically could grab monitor, but I'm from Russia, here aren't many people with 27 displays among my friends, exactly none=)
> And I think it'll be perfectly worked, it needn't to test another monitor.
> 
> Your assumption about displayport is similar to mine, I want to use adapter to DVI and try. I think I will have it in 3-5 days to test.
> My colleague said that 27Q have some problems with scaling and this probably is a main problem.
> 
> As to windows 640x480 (through f8) mode: you quite right that drivers of HD4600 is disabled, but you probably forget about colour depth, it's not a 8bit in this mode. However, It was noticed 27Q can work in 640x480 8bit through hdmi
> It also can represent UEFI Shell, because it have 640x480 8bit resolution. But it can't represent BIOS, because it have resolution 1024x768
> 
> ...
> it seems displayport is more capable in data transfer rate terms.


You don't have to have exactly a 27" monitor to test. It can be any size monitor with a DVI input. Setup the same configuration you are using with your crossover. I have already known about the built in scaler but mainly only hear issues with laptops and consoles. You should be able to lower the resolution in vga mode and choose the color depth. If the panel is 8 bit (24 bit true) it should support anything below. SOme UEFI bios can support up to 1920x1080 so theroretically it should work in 1024x768 but that all depends on how the video controller chip is programmed. It should show post screen since post is 640x480 that is if you have boot logo disabled. If it is enabled you will just see an overlay of a logo. Now I have seen lower resolution panels 800x600 not show the boot logo because the resolution is 1024x760 but you will usually see only the hot keys for the bios. What I think is they programmed the video controller chip as a fixed resolution of 640x480 and it does not have a scaler so it cannot upscale/downscale the video automatically unless a driver tells it to. It kind of makes sense since when windows recognizes the monitor and your video driver is loaded the lowest resolution is 800x600 anything below that will work but any with a fixed resolution such as 1024x768 (UEFI a driver but fixed) or above the monitor cannot support it since it doesnt have a built in scaler to adjust the fixed video signal coming in. If it did have one the video signal coming in would be automatically adjusted to the correct resolution. I just tested a hdmi to dvi passive adapter and it did not work with my ivy bridge. So I suggest buying a video card. I will contact crossover and see if they have any updated firmware that can fix this. Maybe they will send me a test kit with different firmware. They may even be able to change the fixed resolution to your preferred setting for a small fee.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *th3m3nt4l*
> 
> Need a little help- Got my Crossover in yesterday, went to set it up and it doesn't have a power brick like what I see on everyone else's, its using a.... built in plug. As in I can't remove it, so I guess I'll need to get a adapter I just can't figure out which one, and I don't feel like paying 20+ for universal one that fits "most" foreign configurations (already tried that and have to take it back to where I purchased it as it doesn't have the plug type I need)


Wait wait wait. What model crossover? If its the 27Q model it has a 4 pin female power connector on the I/O. The input voltage is 24Vdc. If this is your model then you will need to contact your seller and have them ship you a external power supply. If you buy a aftermarket power supply the pins are not the same polarity, meaning it will damage the video board. In my previous posts (10 or so pages back) I illustrate the pinout polarity in a picture. Make sure you double check. Long story short, user on the forum bought a 4 pin male power supply for his crossover and the manufacture pinout was opposite and fried his video board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mutantx*
> 
> Had the Blacktune for a week now - still love it but found a few tiny problems
> 
> 1. where the glass meets the metal frame at the bottom its does not 100 % join smooth/flat
> 2. i have found 2 tiny "spots" on the screen they are hard to describe its not dirt and its not BLB - it almost looks like its under the glass - any idea's?


1. It could be the metal is bowed or the lexan is not flat.
2. Take it apart, remove panel, use a little water and a clean microfiber towel to clean it. Use air compressor or make sure no large particles are left behind. It may be debris in between the lexan and polarized glass on the panel.


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Wait wait wait. What model crossover? If its the 27Q model it has a 4 pin female power connector on the I/O. The input voltage is 24Vdc. If this is your model then you will need to contact your seller and have them ship you a external power supply. If you buy a aftermarket power supply the pins are not the same polarity, meaning it will damage the video board. In my previous posts (10 or so pages back) I illustrate the pinout polarity in a picture. Make sure you double check. Long story short, user on the forum bought a 4 pin male power supply for his crossover and the manufacture pinout was opposite and fried his video board.


its the 320D- a 32" model. No power brick, but the cable is built into the model, its a "Type C" connector. Has 2 round pines, 19mm long & 4.8mm in diameter. All I needed (confirmed with the seller on e-bay) is a type C adapter to what we use in the US (Nema 1-15) as the seller and info on the monitor states its rated for 100-240v (mean if you can get it plugged in it will work). Thought it odd that they shipped it with a single linke DVI cable :: ::: -) instead of a dual link ::::::: - or ::::::::: :-: ) though.


----------



## RacyNortherner

Hey guys, I have a noob question. I have a 550ti graphics card with two DVI-I dual link outputs. Is there any reason a dual monitor setup with two 27Q's wouldn't work properly with this setup? Thanks!


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *th3m3nt4l*
> 
> its the 320D- a 32" model. No power brick, but the cable is built into the model, its a "Type C" connector. Has 2 round pines, 19mm long & 4.8mm in diameter. All I needed (confirmed with the seller on e-bay) is a type C adapter to what we use in the US (Nema 1-15) as the seller and info on the monitor states its rated for 100-240v (mean if you can get it plugged in it will work). Thought it odd that they shipped it with a single linke DVI cable :: ::: -) instead of a dual link ::::::: - or ::::::::: :-: ) though.


Ok I thought it was a 27Q. I would just cut the two prong male end off and solder a type B end on. If it's not earthed since it only has two prong just leave the ground wire. The reason why they sent you a single link DVI cable is because 1920x1080 resolution does not require dual link.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RacyNortherner*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a noob question. I have a 550ti graphics card with two DVI-I dual link outputs. Is there any reason a dual monitor setup with two 27Q's wouldn't work properly with this setup? Thanks!


Yes, it will work.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RacyNortherner*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a noob question. I have a 550ti graphics card with two DVI-I dual link outputs. Is there any reason a dual monitor setup with two 27Q's wouldn't work properly with this setup? Thanks!


This question can be answered by just reading the seller's descriptions of the monitor.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RacyNortherner*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a noob question. I have a 550ti graphics card with two DVI-I dual link outputs. Is there any reason a dual monitor setup with two 27Q's wouldn't work properly with this setup? Thanks!


This question can be answered by just reading the seller's descriptions of the monitor.


----------



## ChronoBodi

is the 27q even overclockable at all thru Evga Precision tool? anyone tried OC on it?


----------



## RacyNortherner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> This question can be answered by just reading the seller's descriptions of the monitor.


Thank you for this helpful comment! The reason I asked is because I've seen some posts stating it will only work with DVI-D, not DVI-I, which made no sense. I'll chalk it up to their poor English translation I guess.


----------



## Physics2007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> You don't have to have exactly a 27" monitor to test. It can be any size monitor with a DVI input. Setup the same configuration you are using with your crossover. I have already known about the built in scaler but mainly only hear issues with laptops and consoles. You should be able to lower the resolution in vga mode and choose the color depth. If the panel is 8 bit (24 bit true) it should support anything below. SOme UEFI bios can support up to 1920x1080 so theroretically it should work in 1024x768 but that all depends on how the video controller chip is programmed. It should show post screen since post is 640x480 that is if you have boot logo disabled. If it is enabled you will just see an overlay of a logo. Now I have seen lower resolution panels 800x600 not show the boot logo because the resolution is 1024x760 but you will usually see only the hot keys for the bios. What I think is they programmed the video controller chip as a fixed resolution of 640x480 and it does not have a scaler so it cannot upscale/downscale the video automatically unless a driver tells it to. It kind of makes sense since when windows recognizes the monitor and your video driver is loaded the lowest resolution is 800x600 anything below that will work but any with a fixed resolution such as 1024x768 (UEFI a driver but fixed) or above the monitor cannot support it since it doesnt have a built in scaler to adjust the fixed video signal coming in. If it did have one the video signal coming in would be automatically adjusted to the correct resolution. I just tested a hdmi to dvi passive adapter and it did not work with my ivy bridge. So I suggest buying a video card. I will contact crossover and see if they have any updated firmware that can fix this. Maybe they will send me a test kit with different firmware. They may even be able to change the fixed resolution to your preferred setting for a small fee.
> Wait wait wait. What model crossover? If its the 27Q model it has a 4 pin female power connector on the I/O. The input voltage is 24Vdc. If this is your model then you will need to contact your seller and have them ship you a external power supply. If you buy a aftermarket power supply the pins are not the same polarity, meaning it will damage the video board. In my previous posts (10 or so pages back) I illustrate the pinout polarity in a picture. Make sure you double check. Long story short, user on the forum bought a 4 pin male power supply for his crossover and the manufacture pinout was opposite and fried his video board.
> 1. It could be the metal is bowed or the lexan is not flat.
> 2. Take it apart, remove panel, use a little water and a clean microfiber towel to clean it. Use air compressor or make sure no large particles are left behind. It may be debris in between the lexan and polarized glass on the panel.


it seems the problem in intel:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevin_intel*
> 
> Hi physics2007,
> 
> The Intel graphics controllers do not support DVI Dual Link. My best recommendation is to test a different monitor with DVI Single Link and with a straight connection.


https://communities.intel.com/message/207922#207922

I'll try different converters, probably active. I didn't test displayport yet.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RacyNortherner*
> 
> Thank you for this helpful comment! The reason I asked is because I've seen some posts stating it will only work with DVI-D, not DVI-I, which made no sense. I'll chalk it up to their poor English translation I guess.


I use both DVI-I and DVI-D and they both work just fine. DVI-I has 4 analog signals which you will not use anyway. DVI-D just has the ground pin without the 4 analog pins.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Physics2007*
> 
> it seems the problem in intel:
> https://communities.intel.com/message/207922#207922
> 
> I'll try different converters, probably active. I didn't test displayport yet.


What he suggests testing a single link dvi connection with a different monitor will work all day. The 27Q will not accept a single link video cable. (mine) You will get backlight, blue power led indicating that there is signal, but nothing will be displayed. If this is true about intel which does not surprise me at all because I have worked with intel on a dozen driver issues then you should just buy a video card and be done with it. Or you can try adaptive converters like hdmi to dvi dual link or dp to dvi dual link. This should increase the speed. Sounds like you will need the full DVI-D dual link signal or nothing will be displayed. Thats really the main reason why crossover distributors list it as not being compatible with HDMI on laptops. Same reason.

So just an hour ago I tested a 23" hanspree monitor and it displayed video in bios and os. My test consisted of HDMI to DVI-D dual link passive adapter, DVI-D dual link M/M cable and monitor had DVI-D dual link input. All pins were populated at the input DVI-D port on the video board. I assume it is DVI-D dual link since all pins were there for dual link. I am waiting on the answer from hanspree. The Z77 and H87 motherboard only support DVI-D single link max resolution 1920x1200. So you will only be able to run 1920x1200 through intel 4k graphics with hdmi output since it is single link only. Like I said you should still get video though single link (most all monitors will) but you will be unable to run 2560x1440 @ 60 Hz. Guy has a HP 27" 2560x1600 and his still displays video just fine but not in correct resolution. The crossover video board is unscaled and its crap for compatibility.

https://communities.intel.com/thread/38907

"Well I thought, let's get HDMI to DVI cable as it says [email protected] and [email protected] so I bought one and what did it give me, NOTHING stil 1280x800!!!

Now I could be stupid and try getting HDMI to DisplayPort cable as a last try but something is telling me that this solution is also not going to work.

So THANK YOU intel for nothing your HD graphic card SUCKS big time and is totally useless even nvidia nvs295 (old piece of junk) is giving me 2560x1600."

Please read the chart for intel 4k specifications. http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/performance/performance-xeon-e3-1200-hd-graphics-p4000-guide.html


----------



## LuciferUK

http://www.overclock.net/t/1432130/crossover-27qd-dead-or-repairable

any chance one of you bright puppies can look over my thread and give me a response?


----------



## Gallien

Hey guys my 1 year old crossover 27Q LED-P started acting up today. I have the old blue pcb revision. It stays powered on with the solid blue light, but when it receives an image it flickers for a half second and then goes into a black picture but remaining on with the blue light. I have messaged BCC (seller) about getting a new board. Do you guys think I will be alright after replacing it? How much does the board usually run?Is it one board or two that need to be replaced? +rep for any help.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuciferUK*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1432130/crossover-27qd-dead-or-repairable
> 
> any chance one of you bright puppies can look over my thread and give me a response?


Replied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Hey guys my 1 year old crossover 27Q LED-P started acting up today. I have the old blue pcb revision. It stays powered on with the solid blue light, but when it receives an image it flickers for a half second and then goes into a black picture but remaining on with the blue light. I have messaged BCC (seller) about getting a new board. Do you guys think I will be alright after replacing it? How much does the board usually run?Is it one board or two that need to be replaced? +rep for any help.


I am sure you have read the past 20 posts? You might want to skim over some posts of mine to get a better idea what you will be replacing and looking for. If the monitor is within a year old it is covered under the 1 year warranty and the part + shipping will be free. This only applies to crossover distributors. What I suggest is take the monitor apart. Locate the 4" blue pcb LED driver board. Inspect the mosfet (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4f/D2PAK.JPG) for damage. Turn over pcb and inspect the bottom of the board directly behind the mosfet. It should be brownish color from overheating. It is just a switch that blocks high voltage and send very high current when on. Main component for backlight cdm2 level. If its the REV 00 Digital Wave blue pcb it needs to be replaced. I have replaced over a dozen with new rev led driver. Still going strong and it has been a little over 1 year.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Replied
> I am sure you have read the past 20 posts? You might want to skim over some posts of mine to get a better idea what you will be replacing and looking for. If the monitor is within a year old it is covered under the 1 year warranty and the part + shipping will be free. This only applies to crossover distributors. What I suggest is take the monitor apart. Locate the 4" blue pcb LED driver board. Inspect the mosfet (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4f/D2PAK.JPG) for damage. Turn over pcb and inspect the bottom of the board directly behind the mosfet. It should be brownish color from overheating. It is just a switch that blocks high voltage and send very high current when on. Main component for backlight cdm2 level. If its the REV 00 Digital Wave blue pcb it needs to be replaced. I have replaced over a dozen with new rev led driver. Still going strong and it has been a little over 1 year.


Thanks for the reply. I will take apart the monitor tomorrow, but I have in the past and know the monitor has the blue pcb LED driver board. You can see it with a flashlight through the aluminum back without removing anything. My only problem is I am a bit over a year so it is likely out of warranty. I am having a hard time getting the new green revision LED driver board, no one seems to stock it, unless I am just blind







. I have messages AW and BCC about getting a new one from them, but have yet to hear back. Would you happen to know where I can purchase the green revision LED driver board?


----------



## vlenbo

Just a question, I am finally back with the three monitors that I can review, but I was wondering, why can't I nvidia 2d surround it? I am curious to see as to how I could play a game with three montiors set up, but I don't see why nvidia doesn't let me. It asks me for different displays to be used.


----------



## taker

Activation backlight option in OSD crossover 2720mdp, fsm-270yv ..... etc.

With the monitor off, press and hold menu button on the monitor and hold the two buttons.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/209/vlq1.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/404/icn5.jpg/


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I will take apart the monitor tomorrow, but I have in the past and know the monitor has the blue pcb LED driver board. You can see it with a flashlight through the aluminum back without removing anything. My only problem is I am a bit over a year so it is likely out of warranty. I am having a hard time getting the new green revision LED driver board, no one seems to stock it, unless I am just blind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have messages AW and BCC about getting a new one from them, but have yet to hear back. Would you happen to know where I can purchase the green revision LED driver board?


Hi Galliien have you tried this seller on eBay http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111172812316?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Hi Galliien have you tried this seller on eBay http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/111172812316?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1


Please don't buy that led driver. First thing I see that will fail is the capacitors. Really? CapXon...everyone knows that these capacitors are the worst capacitor manufacture. They started the cap plague. Also they used air core inductors. Another there are 3 mosfets.









I suggest contacting a crossover distributor on ebay for the led driver. I received the new rev from AW and it was much better quality. Better caps, less caps to go bad, ferrite inductors, less components and better layout.


----------



## Radmanhs

whats the difference between this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411

and this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-New-27QW-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-QHD-DVI-PC-MONITOR-/111152577746?rd=1


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> whats the difference between this
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411
> 
> and this?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-New-27QW-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-QHD-DVI-PC-MONITOR-/111152577746?rd=1


Don't buy the 27Q. The difference between both models are, 2nd model has a better video board, non faulty led driver board, more osd button board options, built in speakers, audio input, better panel, slimmer. If it were me I would buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-Silm-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-16-9-PC-MONITOR-/130933102211?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c389683


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> whats the difference between this
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-DVI-Dual-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Pivot-Tilt-Monitor-/110869169169?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d0514411
> 
> and this?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-New-27QW-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-QHD-DVI-PC-MONITOR-/111152577746?rd=1
> 
> 
> 
> Don't buy the 27Q. The difference between both models are, 2nd model has a better video board, non faulty led driver board, more osd button board options, built in speakers, audio input, better panel, slimmer. If it were me I would buy this http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-BLACK-TUNE-2735AMG-IPS-LED-27-Silm-LG-H-IPS-2560X1440-16-9-PC-MONITOR-/130933102211?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e7c389683
Click to expand...

ok, can someone second that?

at first i was going to say something about how there is no displayport, then i realized i could just get a cheap adapter in case if i get 3 of these over a period of time hahaha


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, can someone second that?
> 
> at first i was going to say something about how there is no displayport, then i realized i could just get a cheap adapter in case if i get 3 of these over a period of time hahaha


I have the 27Q. Its true it doesn't have the OSD but that's a good thing if you play games. The OSD adds input lag and IMO more things to break down the road. And yes it doesn't have speakers but the speakers that come on any flat screen are going to be bad and thats a high end one, a cheapy one from South Korea are gonna make your ears bleed.

Had my 27Q for almost a year and wouldn't trade it for the world.


----------



## Radmanhs

ok... should i get the Q or the other one i was linked to? i dont care about speakers, jusf the quality of the picture and overall pretty much...


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, can someone second that?
> 
> at first i was going to say something about how there is no displayport, then i realized i could just get a cheap adapter in case if i get 3 of these over a period of time hahaha


I work for an industrial computer company and we manufacture monitors, kiosks, video walls, industrial computers all in which are touch. I know a great deal about panel manufactures and also a lot about repairing them since this is what I do for a living. You will not be able to use a passive display port adapter with the 27Q or the other model as well. The board will only work with DVI-D, DVI-I (dual link) You will either need a SLI or Crossover setup to have 3 monitors. The video board does not have a built in scaler. The LED driver in the 27Q REV00 manufactured by digital wave will fail after 4-5 months of normal use. The mosfet overheats and fails which then the panel receives no backlight from the led driver. No voltage from the LED driver, no leds for backlight. You will be taking a huge risk purchasing the 27Q. Also there has been a high failure rate with the video boards. Trust me I have fixed a dozen 27Q. You may want to read through the past 30 posts. It may make you change your mind.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> I have the 27Q. Its true it doesn't have the OSD but that's a good thing if you play games. The OSD adds input lag and IMO more things to break down the road. And yes it doesn't have speakers but the speakers that come on any flat screen are going to be bad and thats a high end one, a cheapy one from South Korea are gonna make your ears bleed.
> 
> Had my 27Q for almost a year and wouldn't trade it for the world.


It has a OSD button board. I mean there may be a .02 sec lag with a membrane type but not anything to complain about. I agree about the speakers but he was just asking the differences.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok... should i get the Q or the other one i was linked to? i dont care about speakers, jusf the quality of the picture and overall pretty much...


The 27Q was the first monitor crossover made. Anything made after, the problems have been fixed by their engineers and new revisions have been made to the pcb's. The panel is also better and newer that the 27Q. The 27Q uses the LG S-IPS technology while the blacktune uses the H-IPS technolog. H-IPS panels have less spacing between the pixels and a slightly higher contrast ratio, and H-IPS panels don't have the sparkly look that S-IPS panels have. Also the H-IPS panel will be much brighter. I am still waiting for them to come out with a 10 bit panel (30bit) and a dedicated video board with no frc.


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok, can someone second that?
> 
> at first i was going to say something about how there is no displayport, then i realized i could just get a cheap adapter in case if i get 3 of these over a period of time hahaha


I second that as well, either the blacktune or the second ebay link you posted. To be honest, I don't really see the difference in getting the 27qw or the blacktune as they are most likely the same type of monitor, just that one is AH-IPS and another is H-IPS as craig said. I have the 27qw and have been enjoying it to no end. It has great colors, accurate cool colors might I add, and a great sharpness that the qnix does not have due to weird reasons. (Differences in sharpness between the qnix and crossover is not night and day btw, just the fact that it looks better than the 27q itself is a big plus for me).


----------



## ChronoBodi

wait.... my crossover 27q is still working since last October from AccessoriesWhole. Am I just lucky it didn't fail?


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChronoBodi*
> 
> wait.... my crossover 27q is still working since last October from AccessoriesWhole. Am I just lucky it didn't fail?


No, I think the boards were revised by then. There was an older PCB that basically explodes after using it a month. I think it was the blue one.


----------



## r0ach

I'm surprised there isn't more talk of the #1 main problem of using a Korean IPS with no scaler (mainly affects Nvidia cards):

http://www.overclock.net/t/1355400/if-you-own-an-nvidia-card-and-buy-a-27-korean-ips-prepare-to-take-it-up-the-rear


----------



## taker

As is this possible? [email protected] panel sde3 (first fsm-270yv) ........ with dvi .

dpi 166
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/826/emz1.jpg/

dpi 96
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/625u.jpg/

P.d:With 60hz out artifacts, few but out.

P.d2:No downsampling,3840x2160 is real.

P.d3: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/czkv.jpg/


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChronoBodi*
> 
> wait.... my crossover 27q is still working since last October from AccessoriesWhole. Am I just lucky it didn't fail?


It will depend on the use and how high lyou have your brightness setting. If you use it 5 hours a day or more it should have failed after 5-6 months. If you don't use it as much I can see it lasting a year. If I were you I would open and it and check asap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I'm surprised there isn't more talk of the #1 main problem of using a Korean IPS with no scaler (mainly affects Nvidia cards):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1355400/if-you-own-an-nvidia-card-and-buy-a-27-korean-ips-prepare-to-take-it-up-the-rear


That will depend on the driver and it was fixed a long time ago. I've had a 560Ti and now 660Ti SLI no issues with scaling at all.


----------



## YonathanZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> I'm surprised there isn't more talk of the #1 main problem of using a Korean IPS with no scaler (mainly affects Nvidia cards):
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1355400/if-you-own-an-nvidia-card-and-buy-a-27-korean-ips-prepare-to-take-it-up-the-rear


What about hackintosh users with an NVIDIA card? We don't have access to all those fancy NVIDIA Control Panel settings, I believe.


----------



## Althulas

Anyone tried Overclocking there monitor? I managed 96mhz out on my 2720mdp but left it at 75 this week with no hiccups.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Anyone tried Overclocking there monitor? I managed 96mhz out on my 2720mdp but left it at 75 this week with no hiccups.


The 2720mdp doesn't actually overclock. You fan set it at above 60hz for refresh rates but it will only display 60fps no matter what you send to it.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> That will depend on the driver and it was fixed a long time ago. I've had a 560Ti and now 660Ti SLI no issues with scaling at all.


How is it fixed with the driver? I don't think you even understand what I'm saying. The setting "GPU-No Scaling" has way higher input lag than "Display-No Scaling". It's an input lag problem that affects you even *WHILE RUNNING NATIVE RES*.

I haven't seen any newer Nvidia drivers that allow you to select "Display-No Scaling" if you're running a monitor with no hardware scaler. This is why I use 267.59 with my 570GTX + Crossover 27Q because it was before the Nvidia scaling control panel was rewritten and this problem didn't exist then.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The 2720mdp doesn't actually overclock. You fan set it at above 60hz for refresh rates but it will only display 60fps no matter what you send to it.


Well my fps has been monitoring greater than 60fps in skyrim measured with skyrim performance manager but I will try a few other games with fraps to confirm.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> How is it fixed with the driver? I don't think you even understand what I'm saying. The setting "GPU-No Scaling" has way higher input lag than "Display-No Scaling". It's an input lag problem that affects you even *WHILE RUNNING NATIVE RES*.
> 
> I haven't seen any newer Nvidia drivers that allow you to select "Display-No Scaling" if you're running a monitor with no hardware scaler. This is why I use 267.59 with my 570GTX + Crossover 27Q because it was before the Nvidia scaling control panel was rewritten and this problem didn't exist then.


I understand exactly what you are saying. I have no input lag at all and never had a problem. My gpu scales my monitor since the crossover does not have a built in scaler. You can't select display no scaling because it does not have a scaler. If the crossover did then the option in the control panel would appear. I have had 500 series cards and 600 series cards and have used many drivers with no input lag to my eye at all.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Althulas*
> 
> Well my fps has been monitoring greater than 60fps in skyrim measured with skyrim performance manager but I will try a few other games with fraps to confirm.


Your FPS has nothing to do with the Hz your monitor is displaying. FRAPS can only tell you how many FPS are being rendered, not shown on your screen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I understand exactly what you are saying. I have no input lag at all and never had a problem. My gpu scales my monitor since the crossover does not have a built in scaler. You can't select display no scaling because it does not have a scaler. If the crossover did then the option in the control panel would appear. I have had 500 series cards and 600 series cards and have used many drivers with no input lag to my eye at all.


Nothing has "no input lag". What you mean is the input lag doesn't bother you, or you can't notice it







. Somebody else could be bothered though.

You don't need to scale native res. Therefore, it's perfectly possible for there to be a "no-scaler" option if nVidia wanted to allow it. The downside would be if you tried changing the res down in the game or the desktop, you would get a black screen.


----------



## andrew110

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Your FPS has nothing to do with the Hz your monitor is displaying. FRAPS can only tell you how many FPS are being rendered, not shown on your screen.
> Nothing has "no input lag". What you mean is the input lag doesn't bother you, or you can't notice it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Somebody else could be bothered though.


How do you know if you're overclocked then?


----------



## chanders

*delete*


----------



## chanders

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YonathanZ*
> 
> What about hackintosh users with an NVIDIA card? We don't have access to all those fancy NVIDIA Control Panel settings, I believe.


My hackintosh gladly displays 2560x1440 on a budget Geforce T210


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I understand exactly what you are saying. I have no input lag at all and never had a problem. My gpu scales my monitor since the crossover does not have a built in scaler. You can't select display no scaling because it does not have a scaler. If the crossover did then the option in the control panel would appear. I have had 500 series cards and 600 series cards and have used many drivers with no input lag to my eye at all.


You have tons of input lag because the setting "GPU - No Scaling" has drastically higher input lag than the setting "Display - No scaling" in Nvidia control panel. All you need to do is plug in a monitor that has a scaler so you can switch back and forth between those 2 modes to test it. If you can't notice a difference (the difference is huge and easily noticeable), then something may be wrong with your physical senses.

If you use a modified inf file to load an older driver such as 267.59 before the scaling module was rewritten, then you get to choose the regular "No scaling" option, which has much lower input lag and feels similar to the "Display - No Scaling" setting.

You didn't even attempt to test any of this and just put your fingers in your ears and said "blah blah blah I have no input lag".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> You don't need to scale native res. Therefore, it's perfectly possible for there to be a "no-scaler" option if nVidia wanted to allow it. The downside would be if you tried changing the res down in the game or the desktop, you would get a black screen.


I'm pretty sure the image would show up as either full screen or with black borders with scaling disabled completely in drivers. How else would you see a BIOS screen or dos prompt on a Crossover 27Q?

I don't see a reason they can't remove all scaling from drivers (unlike what they do now). They probably have some dependencies built into the scaling module for stupid bloatware apps like 3dvision and keep scaling intrusively activated 100% of the time in new drivers. Either that or it's just bad coding.


----------



## Althulas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew110*
> 
> How do you know if you're overclocked then?


When I load into windows desktop the monitor displays my set refresh rate at 75 MHz on the screen. While playing a game it will display FPS upto 75-78FPS but if I set the refresh rate to 60mhz I will only see FPS of 60-62FPS. I know anything over the set refresh rate will not be seen. It was just a excercise to see if I could OC the monitor and see any benefit in games for example in skyrim without a ENB active I can leave off vsync and not have any screen tearing but with ENB enabled I get a better visual experience with refresh rate set at 60mhz and vsync enabled.


----------



## tianh

Hi all,

Can I purchase this monitor?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-New-27QW-IPS-LED-27-LG-AH-IPS-Panel-2560X1440-QHD-DVI-PC-MONITOR-/111152577746?rd=1

and use it with THIS adapter to hook it up to my laptop?
http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Speed-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B004S4R5CK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1382485875&sr=8-3&keywords=dual+link+dvi+to+hdmi


----------



## semajha

Any other thoughts/experiences with the text's sharpness/readability? I plan on using this monitor for web development.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy9000*
> 
> Your FPS has nothing to do with the Hz your monitor is displaying. FRAPS can only tell you how many FPS are being rendered, not shown on your screen.
> Nothing has "no input lag". What you mean is the input lag doesn't bother you, or you can't notice it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Somebody else could be bothered though.
> 
> You don't need to scale native res. Therefore, it's perfectly possible for there to be a "no-scaler" option if nVidia wanted to allow it. The downside would be if you tried changing the res down in the game or the desktop, you would get a black screen.


I said to my eyes I have not input lag. Yes, but he is saying there is a option in the nvidia control panel for a built in scaler that the video board handles. I was under the assumption that the crossover did not have a scaler and it was managed by your video output device.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> You have tons of input lag because the setting "GPU - No Scaling" has drastically higher input lag than the setting "Display - No scaling" in Nvidia control panel. All you need to do is plug in a monitor that has a scaler so you can switch back and forth between those 2 modes to test it. If you can't notice a difference (the difference is huge and easily noticeable), then something may be wrong with your physical senses.
> 
> If you use a modified inf file to load an older driver such as 267.59 before the scaling module was rewritten, then you get to choose the regular "No scaling" option, which has much lower input lag and feels similar to the "Display - No Scaling" setting.
> 
> You didn't even attempt to test any of this and just put your fingers in your ears and said "blah blah blah I have no input lag".
> I'm pretty sure the image would show up as either full screen or with black borders with scaling disabled completely in drivers. How else would you see a BIOS screen or dos prompt on a Crossover 27Q?
> 
> I don't see a reason they can't remove all scaling from drivers (unlike what they do now). They probably have some dependencies built into the scaling module for stupid bloatware apps like 3dvision and keep scaling intrusively activated 100% of the time in new drivers. Either that or it's just bad coding.


"much lower input lag and feels similar to the "Display - No Scaling" setting."

What hardware/chip is on the videoboard and or logic board that scales? Also how does the driver control it?

I'm not using GPU no scaling....I have had two 1080p monitors before this monitor and both had built in scalers. I do not notice any difference between any of the monitors I have used. I have had many people game with this monitor and they have never noticed it. Everything is smooth. You might have a different video board than mine or it may just be the model video card you have that doesn't handle scaling properly without input lag. Since you said scaling handled by the gpu gives you input lag but when there is a virtual option to select the display for scaling it does not.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I'm not using GPU no scaling....


There is *NO OTHER OPTION* if you plug a monitor with no hardware scaler into an Nvidia card using newer drivers. Of course you are using GPU scaling, it doesn't let you select anything else. Go to the Nvidia driver tab labeled "Adjust Desktop Size and Position" and look.

The setting "Display - No Scaling" basically bypasses the Nvidia scaling pipeline and defaults to whatever scaling solution your monitor has. Any of the "GPU scaling" choices adds like 1-2 frames input lag which the driver buffers, even while using native resolution. Using a setting like "Display - Aspect Ratio" for scaling also adds buffer lag while running native resolution too, but it's still less lag than any of the GPU scaling options.

Now do you understand???

Read the post I made describing the issue and showing pictures of it:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1355400/if-you-own-an-nvidia-card-and-buy-a-27-korean-ips-prepare-to-take-it-up-the-rear

This whole issue is also only a side issue of Nvidia input lag. The last completely lag free Nvidia driver was 186.82. Input lag started going up with the 190 series, and the only two drivers since then with low input lag like the old days are 267.59 and 295.73.

267.59 also lets you use the old scaling module, before it was rewritten, to bypass being forced to use GPU scaling on a Crossover.

Lots of other stuff covered in the link in my signature too.


----------



## Alpha-Leader

I have someone offering a Crossover 2720mdp for $275, would this be a good deal at this point in time? It has a single dead pixel, but it is right by the clock, so I do not see it really being an issue. In the long run are these monitors problematic, or so long as they work out of the box for awhile they should be good to go?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> There is *NO OTHER OPTION* if you plug a monitor with no hardware scaler into an Nvidia card using newer drivers. Of course you are using GPU scaling, it doesn't let you select anything else. Go to the Nvidia driver tab labeled "Adjust Desktop Size and Position" and look.
> 
> The setting "Display - No Scaling" basically bypasses the Nvidia scaling pipeline and defaults to whatever scaling solution your monitor has. Any of the "GPU scaling" choices adds like 1-2 frames input lag which the driver buffers, even while using native resolution. Using a setting like "Display - Aspect Ratio" for scaling also adds buffer lag while running native resolution too, but it's still less lag than any of the GPU scaling options.
> 
> Now do you understand???
> 
> Read the post I made describing the issue and showing pictures of it:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1355400/if-you-own-an-nvidia-card-and-buy-a-27-korean-ips-prepare-to-take-it-up-the-rear
> 
> This whole issue is also only a side issue of Nvidia input lag. The last completely lag free Nvidia driver was 186.82. Input lag started going up with the 190 series, and the only two drivers since then with low input lag like the old days are 267.59 and 295.73.
> 
> 267.59 also lets you use the old scaling module, before it was rewritten, to bypass being forced to use GPU scaling on a Crossover.
> 
> Lots of other stuff covered in the link in my signature too.


yes, I know and looked. I can select aspect ratio, full screen and no scaling all controlled by the gpu.

"The setting "Display - No Scaling" basically bypasses the Nvidia scaling pipeline and defaults to whatever scaling solution your monitor has. "

I know exactly how it works. I am just confused on what hardware (scaler) you are selecting to use on the crossover. There is no scaler! So for the DISPLAY instead of GPU option to appear in the nvidia control panel there has to physically be hardware (scaler)detected for the driver to control it. Do you understand? If I plug a monitor in with a scaler I can choose the both options, which makes sense. You are still not explaining what the DISPLAY (scaler) is and where it is in the crossover or how the driver is written/controls this DISPLAY scaler. All you are describing is the options in the control panel. What you are saying is there is a virtual scaler called DISPLAY with the older driver. My eyes cannot see a 2 fps drop with a 60hz monitor. If it was 45-50Hz then yes. Buy a 120Hz monitor if your eyes are godlike.


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> yes, I know and looked. I can select aspect ratio, full screen and no scaling all controlled by the gpu.
> 
> I know exactly how it works. I am just confused on what hardware (scaler) you are selecting to use on the crossover. There is no scaler! So for the DISPLAY instead of GPU option to appear in the nvidia control panel there has to physically be hardware (scaler)detected for the driver to control it.


There is really nothing to understand except that by selecting any option under GPU scaling in newer drivers, it applies a LARGE, predefined buffer to apply before spitting the frames out, even in native resolution. When you load an older driver before the scaling module was rewritten such as 267.59, you aren't affected by this huge, laggy buffer pipeline if you select the plain "No Scaling" option. The difference is similar to having Vsync turned on or off. I'm not sure why you're too lazy to test it. It's not a minor change that's barely noticeable, you should notice it easily.

So yea, older drivers just pass the info to the display without doing anything to it with scaling turned off, while newer drivers with GPU scaling seem to be holding on to that data for a long time.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> There is really nothing to understand except that by selecting any option under GPU scaling in newer drivers, it applies a LARGE, predefined buffer to apply before spitting the frames out, even in native resolution. When you load an older driver before the scaling module was rewritten such as 267.59, you aren't affected by this huge, laggy buffer pipeline if you select the plain "No Scaling" option. The difference is similar to having Vsync turned on or off. I'm not sure why you're too lazy to test it. It's not a minor change that's barely noticeable, you should notice it easily.
> 
> So yea, older drivers just pass the info to the display without doing anything to it with scaling turned off, while newer drivers with GPU scaling seem to be holding on to that data for a long time.


"When you load an older driver before the scaling module was rewritten such as 267.59, you aren't affected by this huge, laggy buffer pipeline if you select the plain "No Scaling" option."

Wait what? Plain no scaling option? I thought you said you can actually select DISPLAY as using the displays built in scaler...Test what? The old driver? I don't have any noticeable input lag with my current driver/drivers. Funny how there is only 6 posts on your thread. I think there would be a lot more people complaining about the huge laggy buffer.

"So yea, older drivers just pass the info to the display without doing anything to it with scaling turned off, while newer drivers with GPU scaling seem to be holding on to that data for a long time."

But you said you selected the DISPLAY with the older driver. So the display has to do something with the signal data since the driver detects it. Must be some virtual scaling device built into the older driver. Yes, it takes much longer for signal data to be scaled by the gpu and sent to the input of the videoboard then to the logic board but only you can notice it.


----------



## Ftruck

Have been absent for a while but just purchased a new 27Q LED-P to have a dual monitor setup and thought I'd share my experiences. Purchased a pixel perfect from Accessorieswhole and as usual their customer service was exemplary. My old 27Q has the rev00 driver board and was having the issues where the screen goes black. With my new purchase I inquired about getting a new driver board and they were really helpful.

The new monitor arrived today shipped on Monday delivered Friday really quick shipping to Australia. It actually got into the country Wednesday morning but must have been held up in customs. No dead/stuck pixels, no back light bleed and in the short time I've been using it the panel itself seems very uniform. Only issue is that the panel seems to have better colour accuracy than my old one. The new one is closer to white whilst the older one is more on the blue side. Just wondering what people are using to match colour profiles between multiple monitors? I have an X-Rite i1 Display pro and I've used it for profiling a single monitor. Has anyone used one for multiple monitor matching that has any comments on the process?

Edit: Oh I'd forgotten. I lost the thumbscrew for controlling the elevation of the stand from my first Crossover during the floods we had here recently whilst moving all my gear. Anyone know if it's a standard thumbscrew or anyone had to replace their own?


----------



## r0ach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Funny how there is only 6 posts on your thread. I think there would be a lot more people complaining about the huge laggy buffer.


You can easily test it yourself. Plug in a monitor with a scaler and switch back and forth between "Display - No Scaling" and "GPU - No Scaling". You keep trying to claim it's not possible because you think it would make you senile for not noticing it or something.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> But you said you selected the DISPLAY with the older driver..


I clearly posted screenshots of the older scaling tab vs newer tab in the thread I linked. I swear you didn't even read it and just keep typing random stuff to try and convince yourself that the Nvidia drivers are created by Jesus and not possible to be screwed up.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> You can easily test it yourself. Plug in a monitor with a scaler and switch back and forth between "Display - No Scaling" and "GPU - No Scaling". You keep trying to claim it's not possible because you think it would make you senile for not noticing it or something.
> I clearly posted screenshots of the older scaling tab vs newer tab in the thread I linked. I swear you didn't even read it and just keep typing random stuff to try and convince yourself that the Nvidia drivers are created by Jesus and not possible to be screwed up.


Did I ever say you could not switch between display scaling and gpu scaling with a monitor that has a scaler...no I did not. What you clearly said was, you can select DISPLAY no scaling with your monitor (crossover) with the older nvidia driver. That is wrong you cannot because there is not a scaler in the crossover. What you are doing is just not using any device as a scaler. You can see in your screenshot that you cannot select the display for scaling. Typing random stuff as in things that you don't understand. If your eyes can pick up the HUGE video lag you shouldn't have bought a 60hz monitor since everyone of your threads are about input lag.

I just don't think you know how to read....

"I know exactly how it works. I am just confused on what hardware (scaler) you are selecting to use on the crossover. There is no scaler! So for the DISPLAY instead of GPU option to appear in the nvidia control panel there has to physically be hardware (scaler)detected for the driver to control it. Do you understand? If I plug a monitor in with a scaler I can choose the both options, which makes sense. "


----------



## r0ach

Got to be kidding me, I never claimed anything besides exactly what I posted screenshots of. Stop trying to twist my words around.

The Nvidia drivers have a crap ton of input lag except 267.59 and 295.73 with "No Scaling" or "Display - No Scaling" selected, the end, nothing else to discuss. Whatever nomenclature you want to try and argue about is irrelevant.

"GPU - No Scaling" on the Nvidia drivers has a lot higher input lag than "Display - No scaling" and you're forced to use GPU scaling with the Crossover unless you load an older driver before the scaling module was rewritten such as 267.59.


----------



## telemach

I have troubles eliminating artifacts on my 27Q. It looks similar as this

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1196517/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL

but often it gets worse, I tried many option in AMD drivers since 12.11 till 13.9

very often it occurs when Firefox in running and other directshow video comes in

I wonder if it's my graphics card HD7770, drivers or maybe a faulty cable


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Got to be kidding me, I never claimed anything besides exactly what I posted screenshots of. Stop trying to twist my words around.
> 
> The Nvidia drivers have a crap ton of input lag except 267.59 and 295.73 with "No Scaling" or "Display - No Scaling" selected, the end, nothing else to discuss. Whatever nomenclature you want to try and argue about is irrelevant.
> 
> "GPU - No Scaling" on the Nvidia drivers has a lot higher input lag than "Display - No scaling" and you're forced to use GPU scaling with the Crossover unless you load an older driver before the scaling module was rewritten such as 267.59.


You said that you can select DISPLAY no scaling with the crossover monitor with the older driver. You just said it again! Your quote below.

*except 267.59 and 295.73 with "No Scaling" or "Display - No Scaling" selected*

Well which one is it? No scaling option or Display- No scaling because I am only seeing the option for No scaling which is used by Nvidia (GPU). You cannot perform scaling on the display because it is greyed out and does not have a scaler. (crossover)

Yes, I already know that you said the older driver lets you disable use of the gpu for scaling and with the newer driver you are forced to use the gpu for scaling. I already said this in my post from the screenshot you showed. You don't even know understand what are saying. In reality you should not be able to perform scaling on a display that does not have a scaler built in. In order to select DISPLAY NO SCALING with the crossover monitor with the older driver you should have a scaler built in to your monitor! I am asking you how the hell the older driver lets you select a virtual device in the older driver with your crossover. What you are saying in your post is telling everyone with the older driver you can perform scaling on your crossovers korean monitor and select the option DISPLAY no scaling. What the driver realistically should be doing on a hardware level is detecting the scaler in the crossover and then you are able to disable the scaling. I understand the older driver has input lag that you can notice but only a few people will notice it. It makes sense to me why they rewrote the driver. It makes it easier to use and perform scaling on the proper device. Now the older driver based on your theory forces perform scaling on: "display" then option NO scaling is selected. I am not seeing that with the older driver. What you are doing in the older driver is the exact same thing you are on the new driver with the crossover monitor. Quote from your thread below.
*
"After loading up the old driver and using the standard "No Scaling" option, your Korean IPS will now feel like CRT-level response."*

*"The "GPU - No Scaling" option has vastly higher input lag than the "Display - No Scaling" choice."*

The older driver greys out the use of the Displays scaler. You cannot perform scaling with the display! You are still forced to use NVIDIA (GPU) for scaling which you then select No scaling option. You are saying that the GPU- No scaling option has higher input lag when Nvidia- No scaling option in the old control panel is the same thing.

I am asking you a simple question which you cannot answer. You are just posting screenshots, instructions how to bypass the input lag. I want to see a screenshot of the older control panel with the USE MY DISPLAY for scaling and then you selecting the option for NO SCALING. Where the DISPLAY performs the scaling. (with crossover) Right now you are completely wrong and the old/new drivers have exactly the same options which still force you to use NVIDIA or "GPU" for scaling.

Below shows the older driver control panel and the new driver control panel. Nvidia scaling in the older control panel means your NVIDIA "GPU." I am not sure why you think you are performing scaling on the DISPLAY since it is greyed out. You are still forced using the NVIDIA or GPU with the older driver while selecting no scaling option. That would be the exact same with the newer driver when I am forced to perform scaling with GPU then selecting no scaling option, nvidia just removed the greyed out perform scaling on the DISPLAY option because the display does not have a scaler. Why would it be there it would make people like you more confused and it did with the older driver.

Old control panel/ driver showing that you cannot perform any type of scaling on the DISPLAY device (crossover) since it is greyed out. The old driver forces the option of perform scaling on NVIDIA which means your GPU and you select No scaling. So if you were in the newer control panel it would be the same thing as being forced to use GPU as the scaler and selecting No scaling option.



New driver with a monitor that has a built in scaler. Both scaling devices appear.



The new driver on the crossover without a scaler. Only GPU scaling device appears since the crossover does not have a scaler. Which is the exact same options as the old driver just easier to understand which device performs the scaling. The older driver calls the scaling device NVIDIA where as with the newer driver they call it "GPU". So the new driver detects the scaling devices exactly the same as the old driver. The older driver just forces the display option to appear but it cannot be selected. The new driver completely removes it since there is not scaler in the display to begin with. Says hey I detected a scaling device and the only one you have is GPU or "NVIDIA" (old driver) so I won't bother showing the option for display scaling device because I didn't detect one. The old driver acts the same but it isn't as smart. It says hey I'm showing all scaling devices possible that I am written for but if I don't find a GPU scaling device or Display scaling device I am making the option greyed out. (undetected)



new control panel/driver compared to old control panel/driver, same options.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *telemach*
> 
> I have troubles eliminating artifacts on my 27Q. It looks similar as this
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1196517/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL
> 
> but often it gets worse, I tried many option in AMD drivers since 12.11 till 13.9
> 
> very often it occurs when Firefox in running and other directshow video comes in
> 
> I wonder if it's my graphics card HD7770, drivers or maybe a faulty cable


Best way to find out if its your monitor or your video card is just connect a different working monitor and test. If no artifacts show up on the test monitor then its the crossovers video board. If the artifacts show up on the test monitor then its your video card. That simple.


----------



## 271973

I'm shopping for a 27" Korean monitor at the moment, and thinking about the 2720MDP GOLD LED (or the QX2710 LED Evolution II).

The pro for the Crossover is the 10bit and relatively cheap HDMI version.

The pro for the Qnix is the (potential) overclockability.

Has anyone got one of the GOLD LED HDMI versions? Any thoughts on this model?


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I'm shopping for a 27" Korean monitor at the moment, and thinking about the 2720MDP GOLD LED (or the QX2710 LED Evolution II).
> 
> The pro for the Crossover is the 10bit and relatively cheap HDMI version.
> 
> The pro for the Qnix is the (potential) overclockability.
> 
> Has anyone got one of the GOLD LED HDMI versions? Any thoughts on this model?


Wait I thought crossover did not sell a 10 bit panel yet. All the specs I have read on the 2720MDP are 8 bit. You might want to get the exact model number of the LG S-IPS panel and verify this and video board before you buy. If it is a full 10 bit then I would definitely be interested in this monitor, especially if the board supports 30 bit alone rather then a frc installed. I read another spec on a different ebay seller saying it is 8/10 bit. The panel must support 8/10 bit (24/30) but does the video board output 10 bit? If the panel checks out 10 bit it will depend on the video board then.


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Wait I thought crossover did not sell a 10 bit panel yet. All the specs I have read on the 2720MDP are 8 bit. You might want to get the exact model number of the LG S-IPS panel and verify this and video board before you buy. If it is a full 10 bit then I would definitely be interested in this monitor, especially if the board supports 30 bit alone rather then a frc installed. I read another spec on a different ebay seller saying it is 8/10 bit. The panel must support 8/10 bit (24/30) but does the video board output 10 bit? If the panel checks out 10 bit it will depend on the video board then.


I seen it on Page 1 of this thread and then found one on ebay. It is 8/10bit but is that different from just a 10bit panel? Info on Page 1 as I say, here's the Korean manufacturer's page: http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Got to be kidding me, I never claimed anything besides exactly what I posted screenshots of. Stop trying to twist my words around.
> 
> The Nvidia drivers have a crap ton of input lag except 267.59 and 295.73 with "No Scaling" or "Display - No Scaling" selected, the end, nothing else to discuss. Whatever nomenclature you want to try and argue about is irrelevant.
> 
> "GPU - No Scaling" on the Nvidia drivers has a lot higher input lag than "Display - No scaling" and you're forced to use GPU scaling with the Crossover unless you load an older driver before the scaling module was rewritten such as 267.59.


I will make this as clear as possible. The newer nvidia drivers have input lag with the crossover monitor execpt 267.59 and 295.73. The new driver you are forced to use "GPU" as the scaling device but when you select the No Scaling option I noticed input lag. The older driver again you are forced to use NVIDIA as the scaling device which is the same thing as GPU in the new driver. You will select the No Scaling option in the older Nvidia control panel. I found this to have the least input lag. You will notice with the older driver that "Use my Displays built in scaler" is greyed out. This is normal since you do not have a scaler built into the crossover. The new driver will completely remove the Perform scaling on: "Display" from the control panel. They did not leave this option greyed out like they did with the older driver. I mean why should they?

Now a monitor that has a built in scaler what should you do? If you are using the new driver which you should, you will select the Display device then No scaling option.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I seen it on Page 1 of this thread and then found one on ebay. It is 8/10bit but is that different from just a 10bit panel? Info on Page 1 as I say, here's the Korean manufacturer's page: http://crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=2720MDP


No, difference. Typically if the panel supports 10 bit it will support 8 bit as well. It is just a 8/10 bit panel. What you really want to find out is why they even put 8 bit in their description of the monitor because on ebay they say 8/10bit some say 8 bit. I mean if you are advertising a monitor that will be 10 bit(30) and have over a billion colors why would you even list 8 bit at all? Is the panel 8/10 bit and does the video board only support 8 bit? I am not sure. You will have to ask the seller if it is a true 10 bit monitor. The video board has to output the 10bit (30) to the 10 bit panel in order for the full colors. If the video board only outputs 8 bit then the panel will be an 8 bit panel with less colors (16.7m). Making it the same as every crossover monitor I have seen with 16.7 million colors. If you add an FRC board in between the 8 bit video board and the 8/10 bit panel it will bump the video data signal output up 2 more bits making it 10 bit total (30bit). We use FRC's a lot since it is much cheaper than an actual 10 bit video board. Not sure what is inside this specific model but I would make sure to ask.


----------



## 271973

I'm waiting on a response from them about another question, but here is a link to the particular item (I hope that is allowed!):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-Perfect-Pixel-2560x1440QHD-LG-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/120926766239?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cc049f


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I'm waiting on a response from them about another question, but here is a link to the particular item (I hope that is allowed!):
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-NEW-2720MDP-GOLD-LED-Perfect-Pixel-2560x1440QHD-LG-S-IPS-27-Monitor-/120926766239?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cc049f


You should ask them if it is a full 10bit 1.07B color monitor since they list it as 8/10.


----------



## andrew110

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Wait I thought crossover did not sell a 10 bit panel yet. All the specs I have read on the 2720MDP are 8 bit. You might want to get the exact model number of the LG S-IPS panel and verify this and video board before you buy. If it is a full 10 bit then I would definitely be interested in this monitor, especially if the board supports 30 bit alone rather then a frc installed. I read another spec on a different ebay seller saying it is 8/10 bit. The panel must support 8/10 bit (24/30) but does the video board output 10 bit? If the panel checks out 10 bit it will depend on the video board then.


I thought the Crossover Black Tune 2755 and 2763 (not the 2735) were 10 bit?

I got the Achieva Shimian QH2700 Lite Edge because it was 10 bit AH IPS and it has DVI and VGA inputs and was cheaper than the Black Tune 2755.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew110*
> 
> I thought the Crossover Black Tune 2755 and 2763 (not the 2735) were 10 bit?
> 
> I got the Achieva Shimian QH2700 Lite Edge because it was 10 bit AH IPS and it has DVI and VGA inputs and was cheaper than the Black Tune 2755.


From this review http://www.overclock.net/products/crossover-black-tune-2735amg-ips-led/reviews/6066 the panel is a LM270WQ1-SDF1 but I am now believing it is 10 bit since all the seller descriptions say 10 bit. I think I actually did say it was 10 bit in the past.


----------



## andrew110

I've seen a few descriptions say 8 actually for the 2735. When I looked they either said 8 bit or didn't say anything. All of the Black Tune 2755s, 2763s and every other new model AH IPS Korean monitor (Achieva Shimian QH2700 Edge, Yamakasi DS270) say they are 10 bit.


----------



## kevinsbane

The "10-bit" monitors are 8-bit panels being fed a psuedo-signal via frame-rate-control. So, the "10-bit" monitors are really "8bit + FRC" monitors. Not that it matters for us anyways, as we don't use 10 bit colour to begin with.


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The "10-bit" monitors are 8-bit panels being fed a psuedo-signal via frame-rate-control. So, the "10-bit" monitors are really "8bit + FRC" monitors. Not that it matters for us anyways, as we don't use 10 bit colour to begin with.


What exactly does 8bit+FRC mean (in layman terms I guess). I seen this 8+FRC description on some monitors before I ordered and tried Googling it, but didn't get any clear answers.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The "10-bit" monitors are 8-bit panels being fed a psuedo-signal via frame-rate-control. So, the "10-bit" monitors are really "8bit + FRC" monitors. Not that it matters for us anyways, as we don't use 10 bit colour to begin with.


They are 8/10 bit selectable panels. You can either use a 8 bit video board for (24 true) making the monitor 8 bit or use 8 bit video board + FRC that will make the monitor 10 bit (30).


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> What exactly does 8bit+FRC mean (in layman terms I guess). I seen this 8+FRC description on some monitors before I ordered and tried Googling it, but didn't get any clear answers.


Video boards output typically 6/8/10 bit to the input lvds connector on the logic board of the panel. If a panel supports 8/10 bit and you have a 8 bit video board, you can add a frame rate converter that will bump up the signal 2 more bits now achieving the full 10 bit to the panel. (or 30 bit deep color) You cannot send 10 bit (30 bit) with a 30 bit lvds cable to a 8 bit panel. You will need to remove the extra wires of the cable which then brings it down to a 24 bit cable. Then you will need to find a video board that supports 8 bit. You cannot send 10 bit(30) to the panels logic board that never was engineered to use that bit mode.


----------



## 271973

Thanks for the response, it makes some sense now. By 'cable' in those explanations, I assume this is the cable between the panel and the monitor PCB/circuitry?


----------



## andrew110

Sooo what's the benefit of a true 10 bit panel over 8 bit+FRC?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew110*
> 
> Sooo what's the benefit of a true 10 bit panel over 8 bit+FRC?


FRC does a temporal and spatial dithering of colours to make an illusion of an intermediate step between two colour levels. That is, it alternate two shades of red quickly, faster than the eye can see, so that the light mixes and it sort of becomes a middle colour. So, if you only had 4 bit colour, and you wanted orange, which isn't in 8 bit colour, you could quickly alternate red and yellow dozens of times a second and it would mix to become orange. Yes, that is totally the wrong mixture of light to get orange I know. Just an example.

Same thing with 8bit +FRC. It can display 8bits of true choir intensity per channel 8 levels of intensity of red, blue or green) and can also simulate inbetween levels by switching between different levels of red/blue/green very quickly.

A true 10 bit panel actually has 10 different levels of intensity for each color channel. it could theoretically apply FRC on top of this for 12 bit colour. But that would be overkill.

The takeaway? Don't worry about 8bit±frc vs 10bit. It is unnoticeable except if you use a tool specifically intended to measure the difference.

You probably wouldn't notice a difference between 6bit+FRC vs true 8 bit to be honest. I know I have to look at specific test images that are meant to show off the differences in order to tell which is which.

Edit - oh, one more thing. 8bit panels don't show a more intense red than a 6bit panel. 100% red on a 8bit panel and 100%red on a 6bit panel are, all else being equal, the same shade of red. It just happens that the 8bit can show 256 different levels of red while the 6bit can only subdivide it's red levels into 64 steps.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> FRC does a temporal and spatial dithering of colours to make an illusion of an intermediate step between two colour levels. That is, it alternate two shades of red quickly, faster than the eye can see, so that the light mixes and it sort of becomes a middle colour. So, if you only had 4 bit colour, and you wanted orange, which isn't in 8 bit colour, you could quickly alternate red and yellow dozens of times a second and it would mix to become orange. Yes, that is totally the wrong mixture of light to get orange I know. Just an example.
> 
> Same thing with 8bit +FRC. It can display 8bits of true choir intensity per channel 8 levels of intensity of red, blue or green) and can also simulate inbetween levels by switching between different levels of red/blue/green very quickly.
> 
> A true 10 bit panel actually has 10 different levels of intensity for each color channel. it could theoretically apply FRC on top of this for 12 bit colour. But that would be overkill.
> 
> The takeaway? Don't worry about 8bit±frc vs 10bit. It is unnoticeable except if you use a tool specifically intended to measure the difference.
> 
> You probably wouldn't notice a difference between 6bit+FRC vs true 8 bit to be honest. I know I have to look at specific test images that are meant to show off the differences in order to tell which is which.
> 
> Edit - oh, one more thing. 8bit panels don't show a more intense red than a 6bit panel. 100% red on a 8bit panel and 100%red on a 6bit panel are, all else being equal, the same shade of red. It just happens that the 8bit can show 256 different levels of red while the 6bit can only subdivide it's red levels into 64 steps.


Yes, but you can't use a 10 bit panel and add a frc to make it 12 bit. That will not work correctly. May work in jeida mode. The panel will have to be 10/12 bit selectable to support the upscaling of the bit mode. Crossover black tunes are 8 bit video boards 60 hz + FRC 120Hz paired with a 8/10 bit selectable 120Hz panel. (assuming) Instead of buying a expensive 10 bit 120Hz compatible video board or redesigning their current 8 bit boards for their 8/10 bit panels they just added a 120HZ FRC kit. This is a much cheaper way to do it. Now the video board + FRC is going into the panel 120Hz with a 10 bit color mode. Since the panel supports these rates its now a 10 bit monitor @ 120Hz. You probably can select 120Hz mode in the AIT/NVIDIA control panel.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Yes, but you can't use a 10 bit panel and add a frc to make it 12 bit. That will not work correctly. May work in jeida mode. The panel will have to be 10/12 bit selectable to support the upscaling of the bit mode. Crossover black tunes are 8 bit video boards 60 hz + FRC 120Hz paired with a 8/10 bit selectable 120Hz panel. (assuming) Instead of buying a expensive 10 bit 120Hz compatible video board or redesigning their current 8 bit boards for their 8/10 bit panels they just added a 120HZ FRC kit. This is a much cheaper way to do it. Now the video board + FRC is going into the panel 120Hz with a 10 bit color mode. Since the panel supports these rates its now a 10 bit monitor @ 120Hz. You probably can select 120Hz mode in the AIT/NVIDIA control panel.


Is your implication that the IPS panel in the Crossover Black Tune is actually capable of 10 bit (30bit) colour? That is, they can accurately display 1023 discrete levels of red/green/blue, given the correct support hardware? Or does your description of 8/10bit selectable 120hz panel mean a panel capable of 8 bit colour, with the option to strap on FRC?


----------



## ducksseason

Hi all,

I'm in the market for a 1440P monitor and am looking at the Crossover 27Q. However, I also found they have these 27QW or 27QD for slightly cheaper, about $50 or so. When I look at their specs between the Q and the QW or QD, the only differences besides the case and stand is that the Q has S-IPS panel and the others have AH-IPS panel. I know that AH-IPS is newer tech so why is it cheaper than the older S-IPS? Any other differences I missed?

Thanks


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> FRC does a temporal and spatial dithering of colours to make an illusion of an intermediate step between two colour levels. That is, it alternate two shades of red quickly, faster than the eye can see, so that the light mixes and it sort of becomes a middle colour. So, if you only had 4 bit colour, and you wanted orange, which isn't in 8 bit colour, you could quickly alternate red and yellow dozens of times a second and it would mix to become orange. Yes, that is totally the wrong mixture of light to get orange I know. Just an example.
> 
> Same thing with 8bit +FRC. It can display 8bits of true choir intensity per channel 8 levels of intensity of red, blue or green) and can also simulate inbetween levels by switching between different levels of red/blue/green very quickly.
> 
> A true 10 bit panel actually has 10 different levels of intensity for each color channel. it could theoretically apply FRC on top of this for 12 bit colour. But that would be overkill.
> 
> The takeaway? Don't worry about 8bit±frc vs 10bit. It is unnoticeable except if you use a tool specifically intended to measure the difference.
> 
> You probably wouldn't notice a difference between 6bit+FRC vs true 8 bit to be honest. I know I have to look at specific test images that are meant to show off the differences in order to tell which is which.
> 
> Edit - oh, one more thing. 8bit panels don't show a more intense red than a 6bit panel. 100% red on a 8bit panel and 100%red on a 6bit panel are, all else being equal, the same shade of red. It just happens that the 8bit can show 256 different levels of red while the 6bit can only subdivide it's red levels into 64 steps.


Great response, thanks. +REP

The anime community are big into their 10bit releases but I haven't really seen it anywhere else. I ended up going for a Qnix but I might end up going for one of these 8bit+FRC displays in the near future


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Great response, thanks. +REP
> 
> The anime community are big into their 10bit releases but I haven't really seen it anywhere else. I ended up going for a Qnix but I might end up going for one of these 8bit+FRC displays in the near future


 Anime reencodes are one of the worst places for 10-bit colour. >.> Wow.


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Anime reencodes are one of the worst places for 10-bit colour. >.> Wow.


Very well?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Very well?


Their source material isn't 10-bit, so it's not as if a 10-bit encode will make a difference. It would be like the fansubbers encoding 4K video from 1080p source material. Anime's not exactly rich in colour detail either, which is what 8 bit vs 10 bit colour allows you to delineate.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Is your implication that the IPS panel in the Crossover Black Tune is actually capable of 10 bit (30bit) colour? That is, they can accurately display 1023 discrete levels of red/green/blue, given the correct support hardware? Or does your description of 8/10bit selectable 120hz panel mean a panel capable of 8 bit colour, with the option to strap on FRC?


8/10bit selectable 120hz panel meaning a video board capable of 8 bit colour, with the option to strap on FRC. I don't know the exact LG model number of the panel so I am just assuming thats what ehy are doing to achieve 10 bit @ 120Hz. You could use a 8 bit 60Hz video board and a 24 bit lvds cable that would make the panel 24 true. You can use a 8 bit 60Hz video board + FRC to upscale it to 10 bit 120Hz. The correct and more expensive way would be to use a dedicated video board supporting 10 bit 120Hz using a 30 bit lvds cable.You can't feed a 8 bit non selectable panel 10 bits of data and expect it to work. You'll have more data pins/wires on the lvds coming out than what there is on the panels input lvds logic board.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ducksseason*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm in the market for a 1440P monitor and am looking at the Crossover 27Q. However, I also found they have these 27QW or 27QD for slightly cheaper, about $50 or so. When I look at their specs between the Q and the QW or QD, the only differences besides the case and stand is that the Q has S-IPS panel and the others have AH-IPS panel. I know that AH-IPS is newer tech so why is it cheaper than the older S-IPS? Any other differences I missed?
> 
> Thanks


older technologies get higher in price because of less demand and newer technologys are cheaper because of more demand? desktop memory for example. I would buy a AH-ips panel since they are whats current. My choice would be the blacktune model 2755 or 2763 since they are 10 bit 120Hz monitors.


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> older technologies get higher in price because of less demand and newer technologys are cheaper because of more demand? desktop memory for example. I would buy a AH-ips panel since they are whats current. My choice would be the blacktune model 2755 or 2763 since they are 10 bit 120Hz monitors.


Wait, has it been proven that the 120hz wasn't frame skipping at all? Also, what difference does 10 bit make? I have not seen this in action and I hope to see a night and day difference with it, especially when coloring in photoshop.

Have the QC of the blacktune improved? They said that the blue spots that were on the lcd screen were annoying, and I was squeemish to get that monitor, so I opted for the 27qw, which has got to be one of the most accurate colored displays I have ever seen. I still couldn't review them together, sorry fellas, but I can say this.

The crossover27q and the qnix qx2710 without calibration (as well as the 27qw), cannot beat the 27qw in stock calibration settings, they all have similar color details, but I feel that the 27qw, while cooler, tends to be the most accurate and a bit less saturated as well. The white also look EXTREMELY white, no red or yellow tints unlike the other two.


----------



## kevinsbane

They don't display 120 fps... They are most definitely frameskipping monitors.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlenbo*
> 
> Wait, has it been proven that the 120hz wasn't frame skipping at all? Also, what difference does 10 bit make? I have not seen this in action and I hope to see a night and day difference with it, especially when coloring in photoshop.
> 
> Have the QC of the blacktune improved? They said that the blue spots that were on the lcd screen were annoying, and I was squeemish to get that monitor, so I opted for the 27qw, which has got to be one of the most accurate colored displays I have ever seen. I still couldn't review them together, sorry fellas, but I can say this.
> 
> The crossover27q and the qnix qx2710 without calibration (as well as the 27qw), cannot beat the 27qw in stock calibration settings, they all have similar color details, but I feel that the 27qw, while cooler, tends to be the most accurate and a bit less saturated as well. The white also look EXTREMELY white, no red or yellow tints unlike the other two.


If they are selling a frame skipping monitor that is horrible. Why would they market it as 120Hz when people are expecting the higher refresh rate? 10 bit there are more colors displayed in each level of color in the panel. 8 bit 16.7M and 10 bit 1.07B colors. Sounds like you were very happy with your purchase of the 27qw. I currently have the 27Q when crossover first started production. Its pretty close to the same monitor, AH-IPS Vs S-IPS, slimmer, looks like a newer revision of the 27q. I'm in the market for a 120Hz AH-IPS (10 bit preferred) monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They don't display 120 fps... They are most definitely frameskipping monitors.


Sad, but that would all come down to your gpu right? Has anyone ever tested the monitor with say a titan or 660Ti SLI on up? Also vsync should help in game if its skipping frames right? Thats dumb they market the monitor to run at 120Hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> If they are selling a frame skipping monitor that is horrible. Why would they market it as 120Hz when people are expecting the higher refresh rate? 10 bit there are more colors displayed in each level of color in the panel. 8 bit 16.7M and 10 bit 1.07B colors. Sounds like you were very happy with your purchase of the 27qw. I currently have the 27Q when crossover first started production. Its pretty close to the same monitor, AH-IPS Vs S-IPS, slimmer, looks like a newer revision of the 27q. I'm in the market for a 120Hz AH-IPS (10 bit preferred) monitor.
> Sad, but that would all come down to your gpu right? Has anyone ever tested the monitor with say a titan or 660Ti SLI on up? Also vsync should help in game if its skipping frames right? Thats dumb they market the monitor to run at 120Hz.


GPU has nothing to do with it unfortunately - frameskipping is a property of the monitor itself. Vsync has nothing to do with the refresh rate. It comes down to this - whatever you do on the computer side, it is doing the right thing - sending a 120hz signal to the monitor. The monitor though, will take that 120hz signal and skip as many frames as needed, only displaying 60 fps.

This is a common failure mode for multi-input monitors, and the failure mode itself is well documented on many different types and brands of monitors. As per the Crossover black tune thread, the multi input versions of those are also confirmed via experimentation to be frameskippers. As of yet, no CrossOver has been proven to overclock past 67hz.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> GPU has nothing to do with it unfortunately - frameskipping is a property of the monitor itself. Vsync has nothing to do with the refresh rate. It comes down to this - whatever you do on the computer side, it is doing the right thing - sending a 120hz signal to the monitor. The monitor though, will take that 120hz signal and skip as many frames as needed, only displaying 60 fps.
> 
> This is a common failure mode for multi-input monitors, and the failure mode itself is well documented on many different types and brands of monitors. As per the Crossover black tune thread, the multi input versions of those are also confirmed via experimentation to be frameskippers. As of yet, no CrossOver has been proven to overclock past 67hz.


Correct me if I'm wrong but the GPU does have a lot to do with a non frame skipping monitor but for a frame skipping monitor not the case. Since it will be doing the rendering and output the image signal to the monitor. If you have one slow gpu and try rendering images on a 1920x1080 120hz monitor it would be really bad. Also Vsync does have a little to do with the refresh rate, but again frame skipping no. The VSYNC setting determines whether or not Windows will allow your games and other applications to display different images at frame rates (FPS) which exceeds your refresh rate. If you have disabled VSYNC you may experience visual "tearing" and video artifacts while playing, as you will not see all of the frames which are being rendered. It depends on what game I am playing to enable it. Since my video cards are rendering faster than my 60hz monitor can display, I'd typically enable Vsync to reduce tearing on older games. "If your FPS gets higher than your Hz, you get a "tearing" effect because your computer goes and changes the picture that is supposed to be drawn while the monitor is in the middle of drawing the old picture." Regarding the frameskip, you are saying that it will only accept a 60hz or lower input, if they did accept 120hz inputs, it would simply render it at 60hz and double the frames; 60hz x2=120 instead of TRUE 120hz?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but the GPU does have a lot to do with a non frame skipping monitor but for a frame skipping monitor not the case. Since it will be doing the rendering and output the image signal to the monitor. If you have one slow gpu and try rendering images on a 1920x1080 120hz monitor it would be really bad. Also Vsync does have a little to do with the refresh rate, but again frame skipping no. The VSYNC setting determines whether or not Windows will allow your games and other applications to display different images at frame rates (FPS) which exceeds your refresh rate. If you have disabled VSYNC you may experience visual "tearing" and video artifacts while playing, as you will not see all of the frames which are being rendered. It depends on what game I am playing to enable it. Since my video cards are rendering faster than my 60hz monitor can display, I'd typically enable Vsync to reduce tearing on older games. "If your FPS gets higher than your Hz, you get a "tearing" effect because your computer goes and changes the picture that is supposed to be drawn while the monitor is in the middle of drawing the old picture." Regarding the frameskip, you are saying that it will only accept a 60hz or lower input, if they did accept 120hz inputs, it would simply render it at 60hz and double the frames; 60hz x2=120 instead of TRUE 120hz?


Every known multi-input "overclockable" monitor accepts whatever signal it gets from the video card - the video card can send a 1hz signal, a 30hz signal, or 120hz signal or a thousand hz signal. It runs a refresh rate which is independent of whatever signal is sent to it. It will refresh at 60hz, no matter what. If you send 1hz at it, it will display the same frame 60 times a second. If you send a 30hz signal, it will double each frame. If you send a 120hz signal, it will display 60 fps, but will show half of each frame (tearing). Frameskipping, so to speak is not a _true_ skipping of frames; that is to say, it isn't only displaying every other frame of a 120hz signal. Rather, as it draws the image, it takes what's currently in the image buffer; thus, halfway through drawing the first frame, then the image buffer updates, and it continues down the screen drawing the second half of the second frame. So you get two different halves of two different frames for each refresh cycle.

But in all that, it refreshes at 60hz. That part is constant.

Overclockable monitors on the other hand, lack the sophisticated circuitry involved with scaling and multi-input conversions. In fact, it's so basic, it just takes whatever the video card tells it to display and tries to display it. So if your monitor is sending 120hz at it, it'll try to refresh at 120hz - thus overclocking it. You get a full depiction of each individual frame, instead of half of every two.

The frameskipping part is a description of the test we have for detecting whether monitors are refreshing at a constant 60hz even if the signal is higher - the test is so designed that if a monitor does not overclock, there are easily visible artifacts, which show up as "skipped" boxes. Hence, skipped frames.


----------



## Fahrenheit85

I got a crossover 27q that I think is starting to have LED flicker. It doesn't happen often, let's say once every half hr but it used to be once a day. What is the cause of this? LED board? Is that replaceable by me? Any tests I can do to be sure?


----------



## rbishop

I have a CrossOver 27q monitor with a broken power switch. Is there anyway to find a replacement part for this? In the highlighted S6 location there was another black switch.

It used to work by using a pin, but now nothing turns it on. Thanks!

broken 27q.jpg 46k .jpg file


----------



## telmedragon

Just wanted to update with the current status of my CrossOver 27Qs. I bought these around November 2012 so I think they are after all the revisions. I bought one from lightnspace, dream-seller, and AccessoriesWhole.

All of them had really fast shipping but AccessoriesWhole had the best quality in the monitor

lightnspace: this monitor came out too blue tinted, and it has a blue spot as well as a dead pixel in the center
dream-seller: Perfect pixel but yellowing in two corners
AccessoriesWhole: Nothing wrong with it.

They all still work well, no clicking noises or any flicker problems. I do have to admit that I only use the AccessoriesWhole one most of the time and only use the other two when playing games. However, I just rearranged my set up so I'll be using the other two more often.


I changed from triple widescreen to this, but I couldn't get the bezels right because the monitors weighed too much for the arms.


I liked the stacked look on the ground, it covers up all the arms and wires too.


Wallpaper didn't fit anymore


Winamp Milkdrops


Playing Path of Exile in Surround.

I like this 4320x2560 more than the 7680x1440 because games don't get mutilated on the sides.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> I got a crossover 27q that I think is starting to have LED flicker. It doesn't happen often, let's say once every half hr but it used to be once a day. What is the cause of this? LED board? Is that replaceable by me? Any tests I can do to be sure?


Open it up and check the led driver boards revision and if its the REV 00 check the mosfet for damage/overheating. If it is REV 00 replace it asap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rbishop*
> 
> I have a CrossOver 27q monitor with a broken power switch. Is there anyway to find a replacement part for this? In the highlighted S6 location there was another black switch.
> 
> It used to work by using a pin, but now nothing turns it on. Thanks!
> 
> broken 27q.jpg 46k .jpg file


They sell tons of Momentary Tact Tactile Push Button Switch. Make sure it is surface mount not through hole. It should be 12Vdc but I would connect the osd to the videoboard, turn it on and use a volt meter to get the correct voltage at the switch. Here is a link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-Momentary-Tact-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-SMD-SMT-Surface-Mount-6x6x7mm-/230914818353?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c3988131


----------



## genxgeek

Is this CROSSOVER 27Q LED 27" compatible with window's laptops or mac book pro retina?


----------



## Fahrenheit85

My board is Rev .02 but while I had it apart it looked like that ribbon cable was not seating as good as it could be. Put it back together real good and so far no flickering but I haven't played around with it enough to say for sure.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fahrenheit85*
> 
> My board is Rev .02 but while I had it apart it looked like that ribbon cable was not seating as good as it could be. Put it back together real good and so far no flickering but I haven't played around with it enough to say for sure.


Good. At least you know you don't have rev 00. Yes any output voltage coming either from the video board or the led driver, if not seated correctly can cause the screen to flicker. (as in the backlighting) If it does happen again test to make sure there isn't a drop in voltage coming out of the video board or led driver board to the panel. Also it could be the VCC output on the lvds output connector on the video board. Hopefully it was just fixed by properly seating the connection.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *genxgeek*
> 
> Is this CROSSOVER 27Q LED 27" compatible with window's laptops or mac book pro retina?


The new Macbook Air/Macbook Pro displays are LG IPS panels.

Thus the CrossOver 27Q LED should be equivalent to the Macbook Air/Macbook Pros in terms of picture quality, contrast ratio and color gamut.

The CrossOver 27Q LED uses the exact same panel as the Apple Cinema Displays so they are indeed of very high quality.


----------



## sp27

I just got 2 2730MD-P LED. I have a couple of issues with them, would like to know if others had similar problems. I got 2 of these to run side by side in portrait view.
First issue is a minor one, one the "on" lights is blue, and the other is red. Any idea why this might be? Also one of the stands seems to be crooked, and causes
one side of monitor to be an 1"-1.5" off the table, while other side is flat....any comments or feedback would be appreciated....thanks


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sp27*
> 
> I just got 2 2730MD-P LED. I have a couple of issues with them, would like to know if others had similar problems. I got 2 of these to run side by side in portrait view.
> First issue is a minor one, one the "on" lights is blue, and the other is red. Any idea why this might be? Also one of the stands seems to be crooked, and causes
> one side of monitor to be an 1"-1.5" off the table, while other side is flat....any comments or feedback would be appreciated....thanks


1"-1.5" off the table? Makes no sense whatsoever.

Also the red/blue on lights are probably due to differences in the manufacturing.

Remember these monitors are not branded and hence may be from different batches from LG Display's manufacturing facilities.


----------



## V3d0

Just pulled the trigger and bought a CrossOver 27QD Perfect Pixel from acessorieswhole.

Edit.

So I just got my monitor in, It was actually here on Friday but I missed the courier







. Not bad, 5 days from Korea to northern Alberta, Canada (it beat my router I ordered off Amazon the same day =p) Good news, no dead or stuck pixels..wooo!! Back light bleed along the bottom though. What I did find funny though was the fact that the bezel wasn't snapped all the way on in the box and all the screws along the bottom aren't there along with one of the screws in the stand mount lol. I tried fixing the bleed with with electrical tape as per http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/dell2005_backlight_fix.htm but it didn't seem to have an affect







Any ideas would be helpful.

BTW. mine wasn't shipped wrapped in bubble wrap but there was a second cardboard box taped around the whole thing.


----------



## Spartan F8

Hey i am selling my crossover blade. I have a Qnix now running at 120hz. Only used it for about 2 months. PM me if you are interested.

EDIT: bought it from acessorieswhole. It has a little backlight bleed and no dead pixels i could find.

EDIT: I unfortunately can only ship inside the USA or i wont really make any money from selling it


----------



## edbighead

I just bought a crossover 27Q and mini displayport to d -link dvi adapter to hook up to my first generation 15 inch mbp retina. My computer recognizes the monitor and my monitor is on but all grey (blue solid power light as well) but im just getting no image. Im running bootcamp with windows 7 but it doesnt work with my mac OS either. Anyone know what the problem could be?


----------



## bertan2006

Hello folks,
Does anyone help me for crossover models?
I have little confused about models.
As I learnt that there are three different models for crossover.
27q
2735
and 2755
which is the best monitor and as same as apple monitors?
I dont want to buy matte panel.

Thank you very much for your helping.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edbighead*
> 
> I just bought a crossover 27Q and mini displayport to d -link dvi adapter to hook up to my first generation 15 inch mbp retina. My computer recognizes the monitor and my monitor is on but all grey (blue solid power light as well) but im just getting no image. Im running bootcamp with windows 7 but it doesnt work with my mac OS either. Anyone know what the problem could be?


Yes, it should be black screen, with backlight and blue osd led. You should hear the sound of windows device manager recognizing then installs the driver. It requires a dual link signal only DVI-D and DVI-I. DP, HDMI passive and adaptive adapters will not work. They state that in the sellers description.

PC graphic card must surport Dual link DVI.
Macbook, Laptops and On-Board graphics cards are also NOT compatible.
Please check display port of graphic card for compatibility with Monitor,
Because monitor be unable to support all display port of your PC.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartan F8*
> 
> Hey i am selling my crossover blade. I have a Qnix now running at 120hz. Only used it for about 2 months. PM me if you are interested.
> 
> EDIT: bought it from acessorieswhole. It has a little backlight bleed and no dead pixels i could find.
> 
> EDIT: I unfortunately can only ship inside the USA or i wont really make any money from selling it


I just sold my 1.5 year old crossover 27Q. Now purchasing a QNIX evo II gloss. Can't wait to send 120Hz signal to it. It took me 2 days to sell my monitor. Good luck on the sale!


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> I just sold my 1.5 year old crossover 27Q. Now purchasing a QNIX evo II gloss. Can't wait to send 120Hz signal to it. It took me 2 days to sell my monitor. Good luck on the sale!


I have both and I like them both for different reasons.

I just love the build quality on the CrossOver 27Q LED.


----------



## jincuteguy

Why do you guys always going with 27" ones? And not the 30" ones? Just wondering, cause Im looking for one of these Korean monitor as well and I kinda like the 30" 2560-1600 res, but I see so many ppl buying these 27" ones. Is there an advantage from these 27" ones? besides the 120hz overclock from some of them


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I have both and I like them both for different reasons.
> 
> I just love the build quality on the CrossOver 27Q LED.


I love the build quality also. Its the closest industrial monitor for average consumer. Wish all monitors were built like the 27Q. It almost reminds me of the monitors we manufacture at my work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why do you guys always going with 27" ones? And not the 30" ones? Just wondering, cause Im looking for one of these Korean monitor as well and I kinda like the 30" 2560-1600 res, but I see so many ppl buying these 27" ones. Is there an advantage from these 27" ones? besides the 120hz overclock from some of them


Cheaper and higher PPI.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why do you guys always going with 27" ones? And not the 30" ones? Just wondering, cause Im looking for one of these Korean monitor as well and I kinda like the 30" 2560-1600 res, but I see so many ppl buying these 27" ones. Is there an advantage from these 27" ones? besides the 120hz overclock from some of them


The matte CCFL back-lit 30" models all use the same grainy matte coating, have poor contrast (500-800:1 vs. 900-1300:1 for the 27")/black levels and are wide gamut (google this)=inaccurate and over-saturated colors for consumer media. Unless you know how to enable color management in the very few programs which support color management or have an AMD graphics card+use these settings (AMD Catalyst Control Center>display color section and check "Use Extended Display Identification Data (EDID)" in Color Temperature Control) the colors will be wrong. None of the Korean 30" monitors have sRGB modes so there is no way to get proper colors for games and movies unless you own and AMD graphics card. The Crossover 30X does not use a grainy matte coating but suffers from the same obvious overshoot ghosting as the Dell 3014.

30" monitors also have far more IPS/PLS glow vs. a 27" when viewed from 60-90cm/2-3ft, so, unless you want to sit at least 121cm/4ft away the bottom sides of the screen will exhibit far more glow in dark scenes vs. a 27", especially if the brightness is cranked. The increase in resolution from 1440-1600 is minimal.



All 30" monitors are a rip off since 2x 1440p monitors can be purchased for the same price. The 27" monitors typically have superior overdrive solutions (less ghosting), better color and brightness uniformity, and glossy+matte options. The 30" which use Tempered Glass have very poor black levels, for example, the Samsung 970D on the left in the below image uses the same tempered glass as the Apple Cinema+Thunderbolt Display, Dell S series and Korean monitors. The NEC on the right uses LG's semi-glossy coating which is basically the same as the coating the matte Qnix+X-Star use.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The matte CCFL back-lit 30" models all use grainy matte coatings, have poor contrast (500-800:1 vs. 900-1300:1 for the 27")/black levels and are wide gamut (google this)=inaccurate and over-saturated colors for consumer media. Unless you know how to enable color management in the very few programs which support color management or have an AMD graphics card+use these settings (AMD Catalyst Control Center>display color section and check "Use Extended Display Identification Data (EDID)" in Color Temperature Control) the colors will be wrong. None of the Korean 30" monitors have sRGB modes so there is no way to get proper colors for games and movies unless you own and AMD graphics card. The Crossover 30X does not use a grainy matte coating but suffers from the same obvious overshoot ghosting as the Dell 3014.
> 
> 30" monitors also have far more IPS/PLS glow vs. a 27" when viewed from 60-90cm/2-3ft, so, unless you want to sit at least 121cm/4ft away the bottom sides of the screen will exhibit far more glow in dark scenes vs. a 27", especially if the brightness is cranked. The increase in resolution from 1440-1600 is minimal.
> 
> 
> 
> All 30" monitors are a rip off since 2x 1440p monitors can be purchased for the same price. The 27" monitors typically have superior overdrive solutions (less ghosting), better color and brightness uniformity, and glossy+matte options. The 30" which use Tempered Glass have very poor black levels, for example, the Samsung 970D on the left in the below image uses the same tempered glass as the Apple Cinema+Thunderbolt Display, Dell S series and Korean monitors. The NEC on the right uses LG's semi-glossy coating which is basically the same as the coating the matte Qnix+X-Star use.


Thanks for the explanation


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> The matte CCFL back-lit 30" models all use grainy matte coatings, have poor contrast (500-800:1 vs. 900-1300:1 for the 27")/black levels and are wide gamut (google this)=inaccurate and over-saturated colors for consumer media. Unless you know how to enable color management in the very few programs which support color management or have an AMD graphics card+use these settings (AMD Catalyst Control Center>display color section and check "Use Extended Display Identification Data (EDID)" in Color Temperature Control) the colors will be wrong. None of the Korean 30" monitors have sRGB modes so there is no way to get proper colors for games and movies unless you own and AMD graphics card. The Crossover 30X does not use a grainy matte coating but suffers from the same obvious overshoot ghosting as the Dell 3014.
> 
> 30" monitors also have far more IPS/PLS glow vs. a 27" when viewed from 60-90cm/2-3ft, so, unless you want to sit at least 121cm/4ft away the bottom sides of the screen will exhibit far more glow in dark scenes vs. a 27", especially if the brightness is cranked. The increase in resolution from 1440-1600 is minimal.
> 
> 
> 
> All 30" monitors are a rip off since 2x 1440p monitors can be purchased for the same price. The 27" monitors typically have superior overdrive solutions (less ghosting), better color and brightness uniformity, and glossy+matte options. The 30" which use Tempered Glass have very poor black levels, for example, the Samsung 970D on the left in the below image uses the same tempered glass as the Apple Cinema+Thunderbolt Display, Dell S series and Korean monitors. The NEC on the right uses LG's semi-glossy coating which is basically the same as the coating the matte Qnix+X-Star use.


Someones a little obsessed with monitors.


----------



## jincuteguy

So no one has any of these Korean 30" monitors? If you do, can you tell me if you have grainy anti glare coating like those Dell U3011 ones?

Also, does anyone know if the overclockmonitor.com site is legit ? should i order there or Ebay?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So no one has any of these Korean 30" monitors? If you do, can you tell me if you have grainy anti glare coating like those Dell U3011 ones?


All matte CCFL back-lit 30" monitors use the same grainy coating. Unless you equate art-direction-disrespecting over-saturated+inaccurate wide gamut colors and more pronounced IPS/PLS glow with quality the best 27" 1440p monitors are way better than all of the 30" Korean monitors.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> All matte CCFL back-lit 30" monitors use the same grainy coating. Unless you equate art-direction-disrespecting over-saturated+inaccurate wide gamut colors and more pronounced IPS/PLS glow with quality the best 27" 1440p monitors are way better than all of the 30" Korean monitors.


So which one is the best 27" 1440 monitor?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So which one is the best 27" 1440 monitor?


List of the best 1440p monitors


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> List of the best 1440p monitors


The only 2 Korean 27" on that list are the Qnix and Crossover, the rest are around $700+ price range.
Also, do you know overclockmonitor.com is legit or not?


----------



## Taint3dBulge

How about X-star, is another samsung lcd, in a diffrent box. Can pick them up for under 300 bucks.

How does 279.99 sound......

This is just a hard thing not to buy. I was gonna buy a ultra wide ASUS.. but if i can get 2 of these for alittle bit more then just 1 of those...... Why wouldnt i spend just a bit more and get 3 lol... But then Id need at least 1 more 290x.. Maybe 2..


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> The only 2 Korean 27" on that list are the Qnix and Crossover, the rest are around $700+ price range.


It's a list of the best of the reviewed monitors. Most of the Korean monitors have not been reviewed. The 30" monitors all cost around 700$, lack real warranties and can not be returned or exchanged easily while the name brand models can (depending on the retailer, research return policies before buying), have real warranties and are vastly superior.

There is no single best monitor, each monitor has its strengths and weaknesses
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overclock Monitor Return Policy*
> Q. I received the monitor, but want to return for (exchange/refund).
> 
> All returning items for a refund must be unopened and in new condition, in their original boxes including all packing material, without loss or damages. Shipping and Handling fee are not refundable. All returns should be previously discussed and agreed upon with us. Please contact us if you have any problems.


Source

Run away screaming. I think some of the Amazon sellers return policies are fulfilled by Amazon (hassle free return+exchange) but you will have to do your own research. IPS LED Monitors offers a 14 day return+exchange policy but do not cover shipping. Most of the ebay sellers will try to avoid accepting returns (reported to ignore people) unless you force the issue through Paypal or your Credit Card Company.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So which one is the best 27" 1440 monitor?


QNIX QX2710 and CrossOver 27Q LED.


----------



## jincuteguy

Was testing out the Asus PB278Q earlier today at my local Fry's store. And to be honest, even though the anti glare coating on this PLS panel is not that heavy compare to those Dell ones, it still doesn't look as nice as a "glossy" or tempered glass" screens. So I'll def get one of those Korean one with a tempered glass.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Tempered Glass on the left



If you like having a mirror and gray blacks then tempered glass ftw!


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Tempered Glass on the left
> 
> 
> 
> If you like having a mirror and gray blacks then tempered glass ftw!


Thank goodness the QNIX QX2710 and CrossOver 27Q LED don't have tempered glass.


----------



## champers

I need some help guys. After 16 wonderful months, my Crossover 27Q LED-P has died. It will only power up for a few seconds before turning black (blue LED still on) or it will only turn on without the backlight at all. I read about issues from a year ago with the blue PCB boards, which I happen to have! I contacted accessorieswhole and asked if they thought that replacing the board would solve the issue. They said they would contact Crossover and if it was, I would have to pay for the new board since I bought it 1+ year ago and I am fine with that. What I'm _not_ okay with is that they are demanding I remove the blue board and pay to ship that to them, _before_ they would allow me to buy the green one as a replacement! I only went through them hoping they might be lenient on the 1 year warranty thing, but I guess not.

Can anyone help me find a different supplier of a green PCB board that won't require me to pay to send my old one before letting me _buy_ a new one?

If anyone is experiencing random flashing on their screen (backlight on/off/on/off) and is within the 1 year period, I suggest you get that thing fixed *now*! My monitor has done it for months and I always thought it was just a normal thing for such a cheap monitor, but it is clearly indicative of a much worse problem that will turn your $400 monitor into a paper weight if you can't get a new PCB.

Here is what happens to it, if anyone is interested. Notice at the beginning, the screen is on but not the backlight.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Tempered Glass on the left
> 
> 
> 
> If you like having a mirror and gray blacks then tempered glass ftw!


I never have reflection issue with my "glossy" monitors and I 've been using for over 5 years. It just depends on where you position the monitor. And this picture showing a black background so it's more obvious.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Tempered glass is not the same as a glossy coating. Room lighting will not change the fact that tempered glass blacks will always look grayish. Left tempered glass vs. glossy Crossover 2720MDP on the right (white at the bottom=windows task bar.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Tempered glass is not the same as a glossy coating. Room lighting will not change the fact that tempered glass blacks will always look grayish. Left tempered glass vs. glossy Crossover 2720MDP on the right (white at the bottom=windows task bar.


WEll it's just "black" that is grayish, not other color. So that wouldn't bother me much. I just like the tempered glass because it's really easy to clean without pushing on the screen itself.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Well if you don't care if dark scenes in games and movies look severely washed out that is your choice. The screen will still be pushed on when cleaned since the glass is put in place of a glossy or matte coating. Tempered glass offers zero advantages over glossy coatings unless you consider more reflections and worse black levels advantages.


----------



## jincuteguy

I'm pretty sure when I clean it, it won't get pushed on the screen. If you pushed down on the screen then you're doing something wrong. The only reason why you see "grayish" on black on tempered glass monitor is because of the reflection. It's not because of how "tempered glass" work.

And also I wasn't comparing "tempered glass" with "glossy", i was comparing tempered glass and glossy vs matte. That's why I said I would never get a "matte" screen cause I was testing out the Asus PB278Q at my local store.
My friend has a tempered glass 27" Korean monitor and Im pretty sure it doent have that grayish. Because he knows how to position his monitor correctly so it doenst get any reflection.

The guy that posted that picture doesn't know how reflection work. He was just putting those 2 monitors side by side without thinking just so he can take a picture.

In the end, Im not comparing "tempered glass" vs "glossy", so I dont know why you said "thre's no advantage from tempered glass over glossy" . I was just saying that I would not get a matte screen over either a tempered glass or glossy.


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> QNIX QX2710 and CrossOver 27Q LED.


Yes, two of the best monitors to purchase. Sold my 27Q last Friday. Just got my Qnix evo II and I can run it at 120Hz but there is a small horizontal line on the bottom. Right now I have it set to 110Hz and it has been running great with no visible noise or artifacts. The build quality isn't even near the crossover 27Q but I knew this. I mainly wanted the 120Hz but I really don't see that much difference from the 27Q going from 60Hz to 110Hz. The LG IPS panel compared to the SAM PLS panel well they are both great looking panels. I do notice the SAM panel in the Qnix to be much dimmer at full brightness but the colors look more intensive. All and all I love both models.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I'm pretty sure when I clean it, it won't get pushed on the screen. If you pushed down on the screen then you're doing something wrong. The only reason why you see "grayish" on black on tempered glass monitor is because of the reflection. It's not because of how "tempered glass" work.
> 
> And also I wasn't comparing "tempered glass" with "glossy", i was comparing tempered glass and glossy vs matte. That's why I said I would never get a "matte" screen cause I was testing out the Asus PB278Q at my local store.
> My friend has a tempered glass 27" Korean monitor and Im pretty sure it doent have that grayish. Because he knows how to position his monitor correctly so it doenst get any reflection.
> 
> The guy that posted that picture doesn't know how reflection work. He was just putting those 2 monitors side by side without thinking just so he can take a picture.
> 
> In the end, Im not comparing "tempered glass" vs "glossy", so I dont know why you said "thre's no advantage from tempered glass over glossy" . I was just saying that I would not get a matte screen over either a tempered glass or glossy.


It depends on how hard one needs to press and if the glass is fused to the panel which it is on most displays with glass. The original tempered glass Korean (Achieva/Yamakasi/Crossover) monitors glass was glued on to the panel and could be removed to reveal a glossy coating. Many people found obvious dirt and dust stunk under the glass so they removed it to clean. Glossy coatings are actually anti-reflective coatings while tempered glass is not and the blacks will always look grayish regardless of the lighting conditions. Most people have a light source in their room so it was only logical to take pictures with the lights on.

I posted the glossy comparison to give you an idea of how your glossy monitors will compare to a display with tempered glass and to warn you about the pitfalls. The Samsung's tempered glass from my photo is exactly the same as the tempered glass the Dell S series, Apple Cinema+Thunder Bolt Displays, and Korean monitors glass.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Well if you don't care if dark scenes in games and movies look severely washed out that is your choice. The screen will still be pushed on when cleaned since the glass is put in place of a glossy or matte coating. Tempered glass offers zero advantages over glossy coatings unless you consider more reflections and worse black levels advantages.


Not true. Tempered glass looks damned spiffy.

But other than that...


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Tempered glass is not the same as a glossy coating. Room lighting will not change the fact that tempered glass blacks will always look grayish. Left tempered glass vs. glossy Crossover 2720MDP on the right (white at the bottom=windows task bar.


+1


----------



## Craigaaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Not true. Tempered glass looks damned spiffy.
> 
> But other than that...


I agree, It should not have any affect on black color levels. It may have a little more reflection. All it's there for is protecting the panels protective layer matte or gloss. We use tempered glass and it really makes the image quality look better but that also depends on what panel it is. We have a sharp 65" and it looks amazing with just the manufactured gloss protective layer.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quick question guys, would this wall mount work on the Crossover 27q?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/LCD201-Wall-Bracket-Swivel-Rotate/dp/B0033AU388/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385302598&sr=8-1&keywords=vesa+wall+mount

Thinking it would be neat to have them up on the wall.


----------



## champers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *champers*
> 
> I need some help guys. After 16 wonderful months, my Crossover 27Q LED-P has died. It will only power up for a few seconds before turning black (blue LED still on) or it will only turn on without the backlight at all. I read about issues from a year ago with the blue PCB boards, which I happen to have! I contacted accessorieswhole and asked if they thought that replacing the board would solve the issue. They said they would contact Crossover and if it was, I would have to pay for the new board since I bought it 1+ year ago and I am fine with that. What I'm _not_ okay with is that they are demanding I remove the blue board and pay to ship that to them, _before_ they would allow me to buy the green one as a replacement! I only went through them hoping they might be lenient on the 1 year warranty thing, but I guess not.
> 
> Can anyone help me find a different supplier of a green PCB board that won't require me to pay to send my old one before letting me _buy_ a new one?
> 
> If anyone is experiencing random flashing on their screen (backlight on/off/on/off) and is within the 1 year period, I suggest you get that thing fixed *now*! My monitor has done it for months and I always thought it was just a normal thing for such a cheap monitor, but it is clearly indicative of a much worse problem that will turn your $400 monitor into a paper weight if you can't get a new PCB.
> 
> Here is what happens to it, if anyone is interested. Notice at the beginning, the screen is on but not the backlight.


bump


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Quick question guys, would this wall mount work on the Crossover 27q?
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/LCD201-Wall-Bracket-Swivel-Rotate/dp/B0033AU388/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385302598&sr=8-1&keywords=vesa+wall+mount
> 
> Thinking it would be neat to have them up on the wall.


Yeah I think it would work. Looks like a matching fit with the back of the CrossOver 27Q LED.


----------



## Remmib

People are saying these overclock...is that true and without frameskipping?

Thanks...sorry don't have time to read the thread to find out.


----------



## Klunt Bumskrint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> People are saying these overclock...is that true and without frameskipping?
> 
> Thanks...sorry don't have time to read the thread to find out.


Got mine to 64Hz!


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klunt Bumskrint*
> 
> Got mine to 64Hz!


lol...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> lol...


it's technically an overclock. It should get at least two more fps of overclock!


----------



## Koehler

The CrossOver 27Q LED is most similar to the Apple Cinema Display and uses the exact same panel.

To expect it to overclock is a bit much, no?


----------



## billyfrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mullum*
> 
> since updating to OSX 10.7.5 (at least I think the problem is since the update) Ive been getting somewhat garbled text on the Crossover as a secondary display to my iMac.
> OSX says the display is running at 2560x1440 and photos seem fine - but text (or text/menus etc in applications) are no longer clear. Reboot doesnt help. Probably the best way to describe the problem is with the images below :
> 
> text on my imac screen :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> text on the crossover :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is anyone else experiencing this - know of a fix ?


Had the same issue as Mullum (see above) with a Crossover monitor recently, but this morning I have just 'solved' it.

In my case, the issue was fixed by using a different DVI to DVI cable, that is the cable that goes from the Apple thunderbolt to DVI connector, to the Crossover. Couldn't believe it was that, but that has indeed fixed it.

Coming late to the chat, I guess we're months on now so its probably old news, but thought I'd share that for anyone else with the same issue.

Kind regards
Billy


----------



## mullum

I'm happy for you that you managed to overcome this issue. Unfortunately for me, both of my dvi cables gave the same result and I was unable to try a third before returning the crossover to Korea. That was an expensive return, and the crossover gold that they replaced it with was not only a greatly inferior package, but it was used amd also faulty. This time it was the DisplayPort ! I have been able to use the dvi port (using apples adapter as before) but even then - the monitor still has issues ! I often have to turn it off and on again to fix a different kind of scrambled image problem.
So in the end I have a cheap looking plastic monitor (not the attractive metal one) with no glass screen, I can't use DisplayPort and I have to regularly restart it.
Total investment (not including downtime, hassle, correspondence etc) is in excess of £500.
I wish I'd bought an apple Thunderbolt Display. It would retain value and have a proper guarantee.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mullum*
> 
> I'm happy for you that you managed to overcome this issue. Unfortunately for me, both of my dvi cables gave the same result and I was unable to try a third before returning the crossover to Korea. That was an expensive return, and the crossover gold that they replaced it with was not only a greatly inferior package, but it was used amd also faulty. This time it was the DisplayPort ! I have been able to use the dvi port (using apples adapter as before) but even then - the monitor still has issues ! I often have to turn it off and on again to fix a different kind of scrambled image problem.
> So in the end I have a cheap looking plastic monitor (not the attractive metal one) with no glass screen, I can't use DisplayPort and I have to regularly restart it.
> Total investment (not including downtime, hassle, correspondence etc) is in excess of £500.
> I wish I'd bought an apple Thunderbolt Display. It would retain value and have a proper guarantee.


Wow you are one unlucky camper. Never heard of an experience quite as bad as yours.

Can you describe this "scrambled image problem"?


----------



## mullum

Images of the issue have already been posted to this thread. No-one else seemed to have the same issue, however.


----------



## Xinil

Champers: I'm now having a very similar problem.

My 27Q LED will randomly go black. Literally, I will be working on a document or browsing the interwebs and it will randomly go pitch black. I've tested with a wattage meter and while using it normally I'm pulling 65-75w. If I look at the wattage while the screen goes black it goes down to ~1w. The blue power LED stays on. If I turn off the monitor and turn it back on it will 'usually' display a picture again. Sometimes it will last 30s, and sometimes it will last 30 minutes before going black again.

Anyone have experience with their 27Q randomly black screening?

I've had it for about 16 months, so I'm out of warranty.









I bought from AccessoriesWholesale on eBay.


----------



## jikkoz

Is anybody else having really dark viewing angles? When my eyes are staring at the top center of the monitor, the task bar is incredibly dim.


----------



## Xinil

Here's a video of the 27Q black screen issue I mentioned in my previous post: 




The monitor will display for ~30s and then fade to black...staying black until I turn it off/turn it on.

First occurence of it going black is at 45s~


----------



## Althulas

Hi Xinil have you tried switching with one of your other power supplies to rule that out? Have you taken the back off to check all the cables are securely connected? Most likely culprit is the video board. I would check that while you check the cable connections. If its one of the early revision blue pcb ones it gave the same kind of symptoms you had but mine would flicker a lot more before going blank. See post 3583http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/3580#post_18637903 .

I just had a quick Google and found this vid 



 very similar problem to yours and was fixed with the replacement pcb as in my link above. I would shoot AA a line and ask if he can sell you a replacement video pcb.


----------



## Xinil

Thanks Althulas! Even if this doesn't work it gives me an option to try. Definitely looks like the same issue I have.


----------



## Xinil

Ugh, somewhat of a downer, I sent a message to accessorieswhole explaining the problem, asking what can be done to fix it. I also provided the video in my previous post. They sent back a message saying:
Quote:


> The warranty is one year.
> If the board is defective, we think you will need to pay for it...
> 
> Could you kindly open the back cover and send us several photos of the board?
> Please send us the photo for both sides of the board.


I have no issue paying for replacement parts, but they want me to send them photos of a product I've already told them about and detailed exactly what's wrong. They know the model, I even bought it from them. This seems a bit of a waste of time.


----------



## Crazy9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xinil*
> 
> Ugh, somewhat of a downer, I sent a message to accessorieswhole explaining the problem, asking what can be done to fix it. I also provided the video in my previous post. They sent back a message saying:
> I have no issue paying for replacement parts, but they want me to send them photos of a product I've already told them about and detailed exactly what's wrong? They know the model, I even bought it from them. This seems like a waste of my time.


They are trying to help you troubleshoot so they don't make you buy the wrong thing to fix it. The photos are so they can see if somethings wrong, not because they don't know what your monitor looks like new.


----------



## Xinil

Sounds reasonable, thanks for the explanation. They sent a Youtube video that describes how to take off the cover, so I'll give it a go.


----------



## BolognaSoup

Hello,

I've had the 27Q for about a year and a half now and never had a problem, until now. I just installed a monitor mount to my desk and
once everything was all setup, I plugged the monitor back in to the power cable. There was a small static sound and now the monitor won't turn on. The green light on the power brick is on when the monitor is unplugged, and off when the monitor is plugged in. Is the monitored fried?? It does appear as though 2 of the pins are cooked (the top 2 in the picture) so hopefully I just need a new power brick/cable? Do you happen to know if AccessoriesWhole sells them (I bought the monitor from them). Thanks for your help/thoughts.


----------



## Radmanhs

ok guys, what crossovers would you recommend the most? i prefer 2560 x 1600 (unless there is a better one thats only 1440p) matte bezel, osd ect.

Thanks


----------



## Althulas

Bologana try searching in this thread for replacements PSU, they are here somewhere you just have to get one with the correct pin polarity. I dod'nt have time at the moment to track the relevant posts down as I need to shoot off for a lovely 12.5hr night shift but I did just a quick search to start you off for a replacement http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pin-AC-Adapter-For-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-LEDP-LCD-Monitor-Power-Supply-Cord-/141123643380?pt=US_Power_Supplies&hash=item20db9fe7f4


----------



## BolognaSoup

Thanks for the reply. Last night I ordered this one that was being discussed and supposedly confirmed to work around pages 3-6 of this thread. Hopefully this is all I need and my PCB didn't get fried or something.

I really love the display and it's killing me not getting to use it right now over my break!


----------



## jikkoz

Bump

Is anybody else having really dark viewing angles? When my eyes are staring at the top center of the monitor, the task bar is incredibly dim.


----------



## Dyekid217

Hello everyone I have been having the "fade out" issue for quite some time. The only temporary fix I have had has been opening up the monitor and re-plugging all conections. All of my boards show no signs of burns or any discoloration. In fact I have the "newer" green pcb video board. This leads me to think that it's a problem with my dvi cable or power supply.

My power supply reads 110-240v to an output of 24v. Will this range of voltage cause my boards to somehow overheat and "fade out" my image? I read that it's only suggested to use 110v for USA buyers. I can't seem to figure this problem out and I dont want my monitor to turn into a paper weight.

Any suggestions would help (opening the monitor and checking connections has already been done multiple times and I confirmed that I own the newer green pcb.


----------



## Xinil

Dyekid217:

I e-mailed accessorieswholesale pictures of my boards (they asked me to when I explained my fade out issue.) They said it's 'possible' my blue board is defective and I should send them it along with $30.

I find it incredibly unlikely that they're able to determine my board is defective from my pictures, so I'm very skeptical if it's going to work. Shipping to South Korea isn't cheap either.

I'm a bit stuck on what to do, but 'not shipping' them my boards is a guarantee that nothing will get fixed.


----------



## Dyekid217

Well I just picked up a new dvi-d cable and ordered a new PSU from ebay from a couple posts above. Will see if this fixes my problem. If not I might have to take the same route as you and look for a new board. Are u talking about the large blue main PCB? or the rectangular video pcb?


----------



## Xinil

I'm referring to the blue and green boards that are attached to the back white plate of the monitor. Blue board is about 4x4 inches, and the green is like 2x4.


----------



## Delphiwizard

I remember i tried getting spare pcb's too to try and fix my friends crossover, none of the sellers were able to send me the main dvi pcb back then (maybe it's different now), i ended up getting a overlord pcb, which isn't cheap and is a pain to put in but it fixed the monitor and i can set it to 100 hz so it was all worth it.


----------



## Althulas

Happy Christmas guys.

Dyekid changing your power supply should be a good move it was discussed way back in this thread see post 197 http://www.overclock.net/t/1226917/crossover-27q-led-p-available-on-ebay-next-week/190#post_16777073.

Xinil if your a UK member you could post them to me to test in my monitor before posting your parts to South Korea.


----------



## Dyekid217

Is the overlord pcb actually capable of 100hz on the crossover with no frame skipping? If so I might invest in one if the problem isnt solved with my new power supply. Also if there is any guides on how to do the swap I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!


----------



## Delphiwizard

dyekid217, i suggest you read the experiences from others on their forum.
http://overlordforum.com/forum/81-crossovers/

I feel the need to add it's not easy to put the pcb in...involves taking your metal back apart and actually drilling holes in the metal..

In my case i had nothing to lose as the monitor was not working anyway


----------



## BolognaSoup

*EDIT*

So my new power supply arrived and it was not the problem. I plugged it in, still nothing, green light went off when plugged in. Then it occurred to me that perhaps the metal from the new monitor mount is shorting it out for some reason. I took the monitor off the mount, plugged it in and bingo. It worked. It turns out two of the screws from the new mount were a little longer and actually touching the PCB underneath (I could see where they hit the board with a flashlight). So I swapped those out for some shorter screws and I'm in business. Hopefully I didn't too much damage to the board but so far so good.


----------



## Dyekid217

Bologna so funny you posted your fix. I actually received a new power supply and DVI cable to test out to fix the "fade out" issue. I once again took apart my monitor to check for loose connections after changing the PSU and cable and this time I noticed there was a loose screw (not sure where from because I have all the screws in) around the frame touching some of the metal on the panel. I am hoping this was shorting the monitor somehow and so far so good. No signs of fade out issue here (but could also be the replacement psu that fixed it)


----------



## DragonCypher

Hey all, been googling around but haven't had much luck so I figured I'd ask in here..

I've had 3x Crossover 27Q's since April 2012 (good effort, eh







still using standard korean power supplies too) and only now one of them has started to fail.
The symptoms were that it would repeatedly turn off and then a few seconds later turn back on, until the point where this happened so frequently I had to just unplug it.

Googling for this problem many suggest one of the circuit boards may be faulty with a burnt out mosfet but I opened it up and found I had the 'good kind' of boards apparently, ones which haven't been known to fail.
After opening it up to inspect I actually found that while plugged in and turned on, if I wiggle the LVDS (i think thats what its called) ribbon cable where it connects to the PCB, the monitor would turn on and function fine, but then when I let go and try to reassemble the frame it turns off.. and now doesn't turn on at all unless I open it back up and wiggle that cable.

Is there somewhere I can get a replacement of these cables? The ebay seller Red-cap isn't being of much help at the moment and wants me to send the entire monitor back to korea.
I also noticed in some pictures other people have a wider, sturdier cable plugged into the larger yellow socket right next to where mine is.. could I perhaps get one of them to have it more robust?

Pic attached (stole from the internet and drew a red circle, but the Rev.02 is what I have)


Thanks in advance :3


----------



## fearlessrahul

I have a 27q with the fade to black problem. I followed the directions on this board. The indicator LED is blue and the light is on but the image is dark.

I have taken it apart and adjusted the LVDS cable, but the problem recurs.

I have replaced the power adapter, but the problem recurs.

I took it apart again and verified that the LED driver is Rev 02.



Here is a picture of the other card.



Then I noticed the back of the LED driver had some tape on it, probably to secure it to the board and not as a heat sink. I took it off (circled area is where tape was).



I noticed some unevenness to the copper color of the connectors. Here are the front and back, and the back is flipped to make it line up with the front.



I am wondering if this is intentional, or if this is some of the burning I have been reading about.

Thank you for your help, and thank you to all the posters who have helped me learn to this point!


----------



## davidh304

Just to update I've had my Crossover for at least a year with no malfunctions.

When I shut down my computer I turn the Crossover Q27 and my Asus side monitor off as well.

Is it better for the long term health of the monitor to just leave it on or turn it off each time by hand?

Also the VESA screw mounting in the back was poorly constructed. Even with all the screws the monitor still wobbles on its stand. I fixed this by using the provided fixed (bottom) mounted stand AND a VESA desk mounted monitor arm.

The two in concert remove any shifting or wobbling.

So far love my Crossover.


----------



## Razgriz16

I've had many frustrating troubles with my CrossOver 2730MD.

It all started when it first arrived. I turned it on very excitedly but the picture was malfunctioning as can be seen in this video.





I asked the seller "accessorieswhole" if I can send it back and get a new one. He asked for a video of how it was malfunctioning so I sent him that YouTube video. He said he will speak to CrossOver and get back to me.

I left it a day and decided to try turning it on again just to see what would happen. And it worked perfectly! For about 20 minutes then it would return to malfunctioning. Sometimes turning it off and on again would fix the problem for a few minutes. But other times it would malfunction for a long time.

Around 2 weeks later accesorieswhole asked me to send the board to them. I really didn't want to do this but I thought it would be the cheaper option because accesorieswhole doesn't have a paid for shipping return like other sellers. So I took it apart which was very difficult.

Trying to pry it open with a screwdriver I scratched the plastic and broke some plastic pins. Then sent the board back to South Korea which cost me around $20.

A few weeks later the new board arrived. I again excitedly reinstalled everything, but...



The LVDS cable socket has changed on the new board. The old cable is too wide to fit into the slot.

So I've emailed accesorieswhole again and asked if they can send me a new cable.

Does anyone know what sort of LVDS cable I need? Can I just buy it somewhere online? Why would they decide to change the socket on the new board?


----------



## Ftruck

One of my Crossover 27Q LED-Ps always had terrible fade out problem (screen goes black despite power indicator light staying blue). It had one of the older LED Driver boards so accessorieswhole sent me one of the new ones. Popped it in and it didn't seem to help. Would still get the occasional fade out and would have to turn off then on again to get it working. It got much worse tonight and it would only remain on for about 30 seconds before fading out. So I'm thinking it's the video board at fault. Have contacted AW about getting a replacement video board. Will update with how it pans out.


----------



## grml

So after a bit more than one year with barely any issues with my CrossOver 27Q-P it failed today on me.

Without any warning it just shutdown - displaying nothing and a red control-led.
Pushing the brightness buttons results in a short blue flash of the control-led but nothing is displayed...

Given the Symptoms i guess its the power brick, although i have 240V and the green light is visible.
If the PCB would be at fault i assume the control-led would stay blue?

If it would be the power brick whats the most reasonable priced replacement adapter? Those for EFL-2202W?


----------



## Althulas

Have you tried ebay? If your UK based http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/power-pax-192w-switched-mode-acdc-fixed-voltage-12v-power-supply-n98ju but you would need to check the pin polarity. I have a spare Loadus one that I can sell if your in the UK. If you are on the other side of the pond http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pin-AC-Adapter-For-CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-27-LEDP-LCD-Monitor-Power-Supply-Cord-/141123643380?pt=US_Power_Supplies&hash=item20db9fe7f4. You could buy any decently rated power supply and splice on your old connector.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grml*
> 
> So after a bit more than one year with barely any issues with my CrossOver 27Q-P it failed today on me.
> 
> Without any warning it just shutdown - displaying nothing and a red control-led.
> Pushing the brightness buttons results in a short blue flash of the control-led but nothing is displayed...
> 
> Given the Symptoms i guess its the power brick, although i have 240V and the green light is visible.
> If the PCB would be at fault i assume the control-led would stay blue?
> 
> If it would be the power brick whats the most reasonable priced replacement adapter? Those for EFL-2202W?


I've had my CrossOver 27Q LED for more than a year now and have no problems.

It could also be a burnt out capacitor.


----------



## nyah

Hello, lets talk about stands

I own 3 Crossover 27Q non pivot version and I'm interested in getting a pivot stand to rotate my displays, is this mount compatible with the Crossover 27Q?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Achieva-Shimian-ST-300C-Pivot-Stand-27-30-VESA-75-100-Monitor-Multi-Mount-/111164926510

If not, does anyone know where can I buy a pivot stands compatible with the Crossover 27Q?

I'm also looking into triple monitor stands but its hard to find one that supports 27 inches, any recommendations?


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyah*
> 
> Hello, lets talk about stands
> 
> I own 3 Crossover 27Q non pivot version and I'm interested in getting a pivot stand to rotate my displays, is this mount compatible with the Crossover 27Q?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Achieva-Shimian-ST-300C-Pivot-Stand-27-30-VESA-75-100-Monitor-Multi-Mount-/111164926510
> 
> If not, does anyone know where can I buy a pivot stands compatible with the Crossover 27Q?
> 
> I'm also looking into triple monitor stands but its hard to find one that supports 27 inches, any recommendations?


Yup, that should work just fine. If you are looking for triple monitor stands then prices jump exorbitantly, but I hear great things about the WSGF stands for triple monitors.


----------



## BDeWitt82

Can the 2720MDP GOLD LED model display full 1440p through Displyport? I'd like to be able to use my Surface Pro with a mini-DP to DP cable to run the 2720MDP GOLD LED at 1440p but much of the marketing literature seems to imply that the 1440p resultion is only over DL DVI-D.


----------



## coolxal

Does accessorieswhole still provide free PCB replacements to their buyers?


----------



## TigerTy

I bought from Accessorieswhole on the 27th.

The person told me his reply might be delayed because of the Lunar New Year.

I paid through E-bay. I haven't heard any reply back, so getting a little nervous. I know they don't work on weekends, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I hear something on Monday.


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TigerTy*
> 
> I bought from Accessorieswhole on the 27th.
> 
> The person told me his reply might be delayed because of the Lunar New Year.
> 
> I paid through E-bay. I haven't heard any reply back, so getting a little nervous. I know they don't work on weekends, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I hear something on Monday.


Korean new year, my seller Green-sum said they would be closed Jan 29th thru Feb 1st, and not reopen for business until Feb 2nd (Sunday).
So my Yamakasi 27" is still sitting in their warehouse.


----------



## TigerTy

Well I ordered a 2720MDP Gold LED and it's still waiting on me.


----------



## TigerTy

Well they've answered all my questions except when I can expect a delivery.

Getting kind of frustrated.


----------



## HOTDOGS

It seems that every week I find a new Korean monitor club to look into. My understanding is that this one is plagued with the least problems, potentially has a swappable PCB and has the best bezel/stand combo? Why did you choose this monitor, over the others?


----------



## timcee

Hi, I have the 2720MDP GOLD LED and when I started up my computer this morning all I got was a blank screen. I've tried a different dvi cable and also an hdmi cable but no joy. When I switch inputs it tries to connect (blue light flickers) but then it just goes to the red led. I don't even get the beginning of a picture, the red led just pulses like when the computer is asleep. I'm in a real rush to get this fixed because I have a lot of work on at the moment, I know there is a lot of information on fixing these screens in this thread but I'm already overwhelmed with info so I'm hoping somebody could point me to where someone has had the exact same problem. I'm guessing I have to order a part that will then have to be soldered? I'm a total novice with this stuff and will have to get somebody to replace it for me.

I hope some kind person can help or please point me to the relevant post/thread. Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## i1magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ueberglock*
> 
> My Crossover 27Q has developed the same blackout problem after two weeks of usage. At my seller's request, I opened it to examine the innards. The LED driver board (small one mounted on the side) and the connector board (square one mounted in the center) both looked okay. I noticed a screw was missing on the lid at the top edge of the monitor. (See red circle on first photo.) I took off that lid. It covers three more boards. Two of them are long and slim. The larger one sitting below them had two splotches of what looked like white molten wax to me, which seems to come from cylindrical parts mounted onto the board. (See second photo.) Are there capacitors filled with such white stuff? Keep in mind that while it doesn't look right to me, I do not know whether this is actually a defect, and whether it is the cause of the blackouts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone who knows about electronics, your insights concerning the white splotches are welcome.
> 
> You can see a (low quality) video of the blackout here:
> 
> http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=30a973n&s=6
> 
> The characteristic thing is that the blackout onset is not instantaneous. It takes about half a second to a full second for the blackout to engulf the entire screen. It is like power fading from the monitor, like an LED on some stereo equipment that consumes what's left in a capacitor before dieing off, just quicker.
> 
> This effect is a bit disconcerting. I've never seen such a blackout on any monitor at all. Neither on television sets. It certainly doesn't rhyme with quality. Might be bad luck, but a missing screw and squashed whatnot on a PCB, hmm &#8230;
> 
> I trust the cause of the blackout will be found and the fault repaired. I bought from the seller enjoying the best reputation on this forum.
> 
> I do not yet regret purchasing the monitor as the image is truly beautiful. Only one dead pixel on the side (hardly noticeable), and a slight yellow tint, none of which bothers me. But occasional blackouts do, as they are foreboding of an eventual final blackout.


I got 2 CrossOver 27Q with pivot on 21 May 2012. On 29 Jan 2014, one of the monitor got this problem.




From the video, apparently 1 or 2 of the PCB got some problem.



I emailed the seller "Green-Sum" and he informed me that the 2 PCB will cost USD$95 with shipping. After I found out about the cost, I plug the monitor back on 12 Feb 2014 and miraculously it worked. I just hope that both my monitor will continue to work for the next 10yrs. LOL!!


----------



## darren456

Hi all i have been following this thread for almost a year and friday i pulled the trigger on
2720MDP GOLD LED Perfect pixel for $449
i keep thinking i picked the wrong one with so many different models.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Have you guys seen this variant of the Crossover before http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-New-Crossover-27QW-DP-AH-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PC-Glossy-Monitor-/261384867143?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cdbc08d47? Is this just the black tune version re-branded or something? They claim its AH-IPS with 120hz support and glossy but at that price I'm assuming it's one of the 120hz ones that skips frames correct?


----------



## darren456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> Have you guys seen this variant of the Crossover before http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-New-Crossover-27QW-DP-AH-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-PC-Glossy-Monitor-/261384867143?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3cdbc08d47? Is this just the black tune version re-branded or something? They claim its AH-IPS with 120hz support and glossy but at that price I'm assuming it's one of the 120hz ones that skips frames correct?


i didnt see that on

I didnt see that one when i was looking, i think basicaly they are all the same if you buy a AH-ips then all the AH- ips models are the same with just different features as in inputs pivot etc

same applies to s-ips just look at specs so my advice now to anyone looking to buy is to decide if you want glossy or matte if pivet or tilt are important and grab the cheapest one you can find. if i was to do it ove i would get the $319 one with only DVI input and normal stand s-ips or ah-ips


----------



## Nabi

Ordered 2xCROSSOVER 27QW's this weekend. I had ordered and tried using a QNIX 2710 Evolution ii but the PLS differences are too noticeable, along with the horrendous light bleeding and inconsistent connection issues (tried 3 cables).

Crossing my fingers for better!


----------



## eduardo

I have the biggest dilema what to do.

I want to buy one of these monitors, but don't know the differences =/

I am going to use them for gaming, video editing, etc.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-P-Perfect-Pixel-27-DVI-LG-S-IPS-QHD-2560X1440-16-9-Monitor-/120926760460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c27cbee0c

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-Crossover-27QW-HDMI-LED-2560-x1440-Slim-AH-IPS-Monitor-/221350267580?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3389810abc

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Achieva-Shimian-QH2700-IPSMS-Edge-Eco-27-LED-2560x1440-AH-IPS-DVI-PC-Monitor-/131033629039?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e8236816f

I read that no one is overclockable to 120Hz but I don't need that though.

Can you help me please?

I will buy 2.


----------



## i1magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Craigaaa*
> 
> Did you inspect the LED driver board and confirm that it is REV 00? by digitalwave(blue PCB with large coil) If it is failing there should be visual damage at the mosfet and brownish discoloration on the back of the PCB. I would suggest everyone inspect their LED driver board for the REV 00. If you do have the REV 00 I highly suggest you contact your seller and have them ship you the new REV (green PCB). Even if the LED driver board is not failing yet it will eventually fail.
> 
> Not sure why BCC is calling it a inverter. Big difference from inverter to LED driver. Inverters input DC then convert the voltage to output AC for the CCFL bulbs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dabb*
> 
> Yep, I've just gone and checked it now and I do indeed have the blue LED driver/inverter board which is rev00.
> 
> You can see in the pictures below that the mosfet is damaged and there is discolouration on the areas around and behind the mosfet.
> 
> I don't think I've seen a guide on how to replace any parts of the monitor so far so I'll make a simple picture tutorial.
> 
> *Guide to opening the Crossover 27Q monitor and replacing parts*
> 
> Firstly, unscrew two screws at the bottom and 6 on each side on the back of the monitor. The 7 screws in the centre can remain there (left and right 2 hold the side "flaps" and the bottom 3 hold the monitor i/o plate).
> 
> 
> 
> Once you've done that the back "shell" of the monitor should be free from the screen. The back shell has the LCD driver/inverter board on the left and another board in the middle. (Looking at it from the back, not from the front)
> 
> *Be very careful as you lift the back shell up as there are two wires connected to the panel.* One is at the top and one is on the left side of the monitor, going into the LCD driver/inverter board. You need to carefully disconnect these two cables.
> 
> Here is the panel itself:
> 
> 
> 
> The boards screwed to the back shell:
> 
> 
> 
> Rev 00 Digital Wave LED Driver/Inverter board:
> 
> 
> 
> You can see that the mosfet is damaged and the area around it is discoloured in my photo. Here's a picture of more obvious discolouration on the back:
> 
> 
> 
> When you put the monitor back together, make sure the little light diffusing plastic thing is placed back into position:
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realise mine fell out and I didn't feel like going through all the screws again so I'll put it back in when the replacement boards arrives.


You are right man!!!

My CrossOver 27Q reached me on 21 May 2012 and it has the blue Rev 00 LED driver board. It failed on end Jan 2014.

Like what you said .... "It will eventually fail." I open it up and the MOSFET is burnt exactly like what shown in the pictures above.


----------



## i1magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teo14*
> 
> I am another member of team Crossover that got hit with a hot MOSFET. I just registered to share my input.
> 
> Purchased in June from Bigclothcraft, fast shipping and good communication.
> 
> Fast-forward to the end of August, started having some intermittent flickering issues that would happen for a second or two at a time then go away. I sent a message to BCC and he responded very quickly and offered to send a replacement power brick. I accepted his offer and the power supply arrived 2 days later.
> 
> I used the new power brick and everything seemed fine for a couple of days until my monitor's screen would go dark (backlight would go out but power light would still be blue). I could tell this was linked to the backlight brightness as it would only happen when the backlight was anything above the minimum setting. Video here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I explained the issue to BCC and he authorized sending the monitor back via his account with DHL.
> 
> Seeing how many others had this issue with the mosfet on the LED power board I decided to crack my panel open and have a look:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Toasty.
> 
> So I dug up an old mosfet heatsink from a graphics card, cleaned the heatsink and mosfet with some rubbing alcohol, applied a tiny dot of Arctic Silver to the mosfet and temporarily secured it to the board with some double sided foam tape.
> 
> 
> 
> I hooked everything up and at first it seemed it didn't work (monitor would die if brightness was turned up). I tried power cycling the monitor a few more times and then it just worked, the monitor would stay on on the highest brightness. The heatsink did get hot to the touch so there is some definite need for some cooling.
> 
> I am going to attach the heatsink more permanently, I'm thinking a couple dots of epoxy on the corners and some Arctic silver in the middle of the mosfet, however I am open to suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to let BCC know about the issue and maybe we can both save some time and money by just getting a new LED driver board shipped out. Has anyone received a replacement board from any seller yet?
> 
> I heard a member say they didn't have a blue PCB for the LED driver board and instead a green one so I assume Crossover is aware of the issue and are using a different board on the newer panels they are shipping out.
> 
> edit: found a datasheet for the 18T10GH MOSFET used on this board, has a maximum operating temperature of 150 degrees Celsius and judging by the charring on most people's boards its hitting that upper limit.


Sorry to dig up the old post.

I found Aliexpress selling this MOSFET @ USD$1.42 / 5 pcs.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/AP18T10GH-18T10GH-TO-252/719408_843586295.html



Post here, just in case some of you wanna do some hardcore DIY repairs.


----------



## i1magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FireBean*
> 
> Well, my 27Q's LED Driver board just bit the dust. There is one mosfet that has obviously overheated. Does anyone know if this ends up damaging the LCD Driver board as well? I tested my power brick and it was outputting 29v.
> 
> Also talked to DreamSeller and to warranty it, I would have to ship the screen back to them in KOREA! Or I can just order the replacement board for $30. I was thinking of just hitting up mouser and trying to solder a new mostfet back on. and slap a heatsink on it!


Would this help?

I found Aliexpress selling this MOSFET @ USD$1.42 / 5 pcs.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/AP18T10GH-18T10GH-TO-252/719408_843586295.html



Post here, just in case some of you wanna do some hardcore DIY repairs.


----------



## senna89

2720MDP is the fastest Korean monitor like response time ?


----------



## i1magic

I have created a separate thread (with poll) for people to vote which monitor brand you gotten, when you bought the monitor, any problem so far, was it taken care of and if yes, how?

You guys can go over to vote and share the problem you face and how you resolved it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1471025/problems-solutions-crossover-catleap-qnix-shimiam-27-2560x1440-monitors-bought-online-how-long-did-it-last


----------



## ployez

Posted this in /r/hardware, someone there suggested I try this thread.

I'm getting a crossover 27Q monitor but it doesnt have the stand I prefer. The stand I'm looking for looks like this: http://files.doobybrain.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/crossover-27Q1.jpg

The one that is on mine looks like this: http://www.exportprive.com/15266-thickbox/crossover-led-screen-27q-led-p-27-inches-black-white-.jpg

Has anyone replaced their stand like the 1st one listed and would like to sell me theirs, or would someone be willing to take my stand in exchange for theirs plus some $$?


----------



## i1magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ployez*
> 
> Posted this in /r/hardware, someone there suggested I try this thread.
> 
> I'm getting a crossover 27Q monitor but it doesnt have the stand I prefer. The stand I'm looking for looks like this: http://files.doobybrain.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/crossover-27Q1.jpg
> 
> The one that is on mine looks like this: http://www.exportprive.com/15266-thickbox/crossover-led-screen-27q-led-p-27-inches-black-white-.jpg
> 
> Has anyone replaced their stand like the 1st one listed and would like to sell me theirs, or would someone be willing to take my stand in exchange for theirs plus some $$?


Hi,

The first stand is the normal stand. Whereas the stand which you got is a pivot stand, which allows you to adjust the height of the monitor. If you wanted the normal stand, you should have ordered the normal one instead.


----------



## ployez

I bought the monitor used so unfortunately I don't get a choice, I like the look of the normal stand because I have a black and white theme going on with my PC case etc. Anyway I just figured if anyone was interested in upgrading to a pivot stand it could work out for both of us


----------



## Dyekid217

Hello everyone I've had a crossover for quite some time (about 8 months) and I've been gettting the fade out issue for a while. It's only fixed when I open up the monitor and reseat all of the cables, then it works for a good while but will eventually display the same syptoms. I confirmed that the LED driver board is the new (green) one and there are no burn marks on the capacitors etc. Here's a video of the problem I am gettting although mine fades out much slower.



Should I contact my seller about this? I bought it off red-cap but I might deal with AW since I heard his customer service is better.

If anyone could help on this matter or if you've dealt with this problem I would appreciate it. Thanks


----------



## Dyekid217

Anyone here to help? Like I said I have the newer green pcb but I am still getting the fadeout problem.


----------



## damnseagulls

I bought a crossover from Accessories Whole in September. Around xmas time it started with the flickering and shutting off. Eventually it died.

Like some other people here I was sent a replacement power brick which made no difference. I sent photos over to AW, who sent a replacement blue PCB board.

I opened up my monitor casing and unfortunately for me, I have the green all-in-one PCB... I attempted to swap it anyway but I noticed the blue one needs a secondary part which I was not sent, and also the black metal plate on the back doesn't match up with the new one.

I contacted AW who said Crossover tells them it is now very difficult to get the rest of the parts for the blue board, and the green board has now been discontinue so they can't send me a straight replacement. They have offered a refund if I pay for shipping back to Korea.

Firstly, should I be paying shipping for that? And secondly how easy is it to get a hold of the smaller blue part and connecting lead on ebay or similar? Or a replacement green board?

Thanks


----------



## haccess

My Crossover 27Q LED-P seems to have suddenly bit the dust. Purchased Mar 11 2012, using a 100-240V power brick with zero problems until last night when I came home from work and the monitor simply would not turn on (power indicator stayed dark when power button was pressed). It finally did turn back on after about 5 minutes of pressing the power button and unplugging/replugging of the power cable. I was able to use it through the evening, but this morning it is off again and I'm not having any luck after fiddling for a bit.

Tried the original power brick with the same result. When I press the power button I get no reponse from the power indicator or the screen itself. If I press the brightness adjustment buttons the power indicator does come on, flashes red/blue as usual and then the power indicator stays on blue but the monitor isn't actually on.

After some quick searching I found posts of people with similar-but-different issues where they have an indicator on with no backlight, or their screen fades to black after some time, but haven't found anyone with my same problem. Hopefully I'll find time to open it up this week to check for loose connections or damaged parts. Total bummer though.


----------



## damnseagulls

That sucks. Hopefully you dont have the same board I did.

I just sent mine back to the tune of UPS $130. I dont think I'll be buying another one.


----------



## Concorde105

Welp, after over a year my monitor has developed its first issue (outside of some minor buzzing when certain patterns are on screen, but that's rare).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I turned on my monitor after getting home today and the green line was there. Wasn't there last night, and I'm pretty sure I didn't abuse my monitor while I was sleeping.

Anybody seen this before?

It's definitely the monitor, swapping GPUs and cables didn't help and the line is there when the screen is first turning on but not displaying an image yet.

Bit of a bummer, although at least it's still functional.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Concorde105*
> 
> Welp, after over a year my monitor has developed its first issue (outside of some minor buzzing when certain patterns are on screen, but that's rare).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I turned on my monitor after getting home today and the green line was there. Wasn't there last night, and I'm pretty sure I didn't abuse my monitor while I was sleeping.
> 
> Anybody seen this before?
> 
> It's definitely the monitor, swapping GPUs and cables didn't help and the line is there when the screen is first turning on but not displaying an image yet.
> 
> Bit of a bummer, although at least it's still functional.


Never encountered this problem before. How long have you had it for? If it's a defective model, send it back and ask for a replacement.


----------



## Premonition

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyekid217*
> 
> Should I contact my seller about this? I bought it off red-cap but I might deal with AW since I heard his customer service is better.
> If anyone could help on this matter or if you've dealt with this problem I would appreciate it. Thanks


Hey I've had this exact problem where my screen fades to black in secs after turning on.
The solution is to replace the driver board. It is the smaller one out of the 2 PCBs inside the crossover.
Mine didnt have burn marks or obvious blown capacitors either. I ripped out the old driver board in my previous 1440p monitor which i broke and voila!
It works perfect now, but I'm trying to source for a spare, will let u know if i find one.


----------



## DragonCypher

Quick question guys, (I tried searching.. but naturally my questions have to so damn specific they're hard to find, sorry)
I've recently switched from a tri-sli setup to a single GTX780 and about to get 3rd CrossOver (to replace a broken one)

I'm just wondering if it would be alright to get another standard one (DVI-D only) and use a cheap displayport adapter like this:

Or if I'm better off with the more expensive CrossOver that accepts displayport natively.

I know that my old AMD cards needed active adapters for dual link DVI out of a displayport but I haven't been able to confirm if Nvidia is the same.
I also heard that hdmi can't go that high so the displayport is my only available output before getting a 2nd gpu

Thanks in advance


----------



## Fahrenheit85

My Crossover 27Q has been going strong since 04/04/13. Haven't had to open it up for anything yet. Very happy with it. With luck it will last another yearish till 4k IPS with decent refresh rates and that display port thingy with the free sync built in.


----------



## chon

My power brick is falling apart but still working. You can even hear loose stuff inside of it when you shake it. Its one of the 220v units that were shipping out when these monitors first became available.

My monitor is 2 years old so AW will not provide a free brick. Any particular brick that someone can recommend on ebay?


----------



## SW Simplicity

Maybe this is a stupid question but I'm going to ask it anyway.

I bought my Crossover 27Q LED-P about 2 years ago, but after turning it on today something strange happend.

I turned it on and I heard a strange noise from the back of the monitor and then smoke came from the back. In my sudden panic attack I immediatly disconnected the power brick and left the room (it smelled and still smells awful like burned electronics). I opened up the monitor and one of the capacitors on the driver board had burst (My monitor came with the green board that others who had a broken blue one got as a replacement). The strange thing however is, after removing the broken capacitor the monitor turns on and works like a charm. I have ordered a couple of new capacitors to replace the one I removed and the ones that still work as well. But I'm wondering if someone with more knowledge of electronics can tell me if I should use the monitor in it's current state or disconnect it immediately and not use it until I have fitted the new capacitor?


----------



## Fluffarn

New here! Hope everything is relevant etc- I bought the 30inch rather than 27 but my issue has been brought up a few times in this thread so thought I'd ask.

I bought a 30" pixel perfect 3020MDP crossover from Red-cap, and it arrived a week ago. I noticed a very very loud high pitched noise coming from the monitor whenever there is a predominately white background on the screen. After going through this thread I saw someone with the same issue had posted a video of the noise. 




I informed red-cap as soon as it occured but I've been having nothing but hassle from him, including him telling me Crossover had never experienced this issue before, and that they did not know what to do to fix it. Basically every response from him goes like this

_"I asked the manufacturer and report many times about this trouble to get good solution.
the manufacturer answered that they can't catch issuable noise and the noise on the sound file is very normal level.
they are very cooperative always to us (esp. ebay buyer issue ) but for this case , they don't accept because this issue is very strange to them ( to us too )"
_

_"we , as a seller, are always doing our best to understand item's functions and specification.
and we have many experience about monitor C/S for 4 years with sales history more than 2000pcs IPS monitor.
however, this issue about noise is the first time for us.
but we are trying to resolve this to make you satisfied. we are asking Crossover many time to suggest this issue but
they is saying that they are first time too and need to see the monitor by themselves bacause they can't decide the recorded sound as a noise.
as you might know ,the round shipping fee is about $300.
so we hope you give us something to persuade them or fix it if you can ( we can take reasonable some charge )"_

So basically what I'm asking is, if there anyway for me to 'persuade' crossover that this is an issue with the screen (right now I can't use it as it literally makes my ears want to bleed haha), any way to fix it myself if the worst comes to the worst, or anything I can do within my ebay rights to get a refund/replacement? I'm not sure how return policies on faulty screens work via ebay, but I know in the past my faulty items have been replaced for free, with shipping the faulty items back to them paid for by the company. (graphics cards, blenders, clothes etc all seem to work this way)

Perhaps people have experience with red-cap and his returns policy on faulty items and can help me? to pay another $300 on top just to send a faulty item back to him makes this a very expensive purchase, and I'm not entirely sure why I should have to pay to return a faulty item as it isn't an issue I caused?

Maybe it's different in other countries but here the seller has to pay return P&P on a faulty item http://www.ebay.com/gds/Returning-goods-Faulty-or-not-who-pays-postage-/10000000142555623/g.html "If the item is found faulty (usually within 6 months) ..... then the seller has to refund return P&P costs so that the customer does not lose any money at all." and here http://www.consumerhelp.ie/faulty-goods

I apologise for the wall of text and lack of hyperlinks, I'm kinda new to forums and not sure what the way to do things are!


----------



## Descadent

this thread is full of how bad red cap is

accessorieswhole is the only one to deal with on these monitors


----------



## Fluffarn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> this thread is full of how bad red cap is
> 
> accessorieswhole is the only one to deal with on these monitors


Yeah, I done a fair bit of research on the screens but unfortunately none on specific ebay sellers. But hind sight is a wonderful thing haha. Unfortunately being told red cap is useless isn't all too much help for me now, perhaps I'll just open a paypal case against him...


----------



## Descadent

prob the pcb. the answer is in this thread. just search within the thread. it's probably a deal with it kind of thing though.


----------



## Fluffarn

I wouldn't have posted here if I hadn't searched for the issue already. I see many people reporting a high pitched noise but no solution to it so far other than one reply stating this

"got my Crossover 27q LED-P yesterday from BCC and set it up. There a very high pitch noise from the monitor itself (not the power adapter). It's very loud especially when the monitor is showing a white screen. I believe the problem is coming from the inductor coils/chokes on the mainboard. I've sent a msg to BCC about the issue.
Does anybody know if easy to access to PCB on this model? Anyone think I should put some epoxy / hot glue on the chokes to shut them up?"

"Very easy to remove. Just unscrew all the screws in the back and lift that half of the housing. Open slowly while disconnect the PCB's connectors."

But wasn't sure if that was a last resort kinda thing, and personally I'm not all too sure I have the know how to do it regardless, though I could try. Basically just wanted to see if there was anything else that could be a possible solution/ if people have worked anything out with redcap. Basically going to have to get rid of the screen if I cant fix it, thats all


----------



## chadwee

Hi all, like to ask a question. can this korean monitor be used on intel hd4000?


----------



## Descadent

only if you are outputting with dual link dvi


----------



## newone757

It also works to convert a full size display port from the motherboard to Mini DisplayPort to dual link dvi (I'm using apple's active mini dp to dvi adapter).

I'm running it off of the $50 intel celeron g1840 right now


----------



## chadwee

Sweet. Thanks Descadent & newone757:thumb:


----------



## chadwee

Hi all,

My 2 qnix monitors arrived yesterday. Will this Gpu be able to display 2 of the qnix monitors and my hdtv all at once

without the need of any active adapters?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125460&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=4902415&SID=


----------



## Descadent

yes but don't expect to do any gaming with that card at 1440p


----------



## jetpak12

I have this little guy: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125468 and it runs surprisingly well. It averages 50 fps in Star Wars: The Old Republic (currently the most graphically intensive game I've tried) on my 1440p with most settings on max and no AA.

If you are actually going to get a GT640, I'd highly recommend the GDDR5 version that I linked, it'll run much better than the DDR3 version.


----------



## chadwee

Thanks descadent and jetpak12. I will get the 2gb first while waiting for the 800 series to launch.


----------



## Born For TDM

Had my crossover for a little over a year now, my only tip would be to get the version with more than just a dual link DVI, Wishing i could use my current one with my PS4 because i love the quality of it so much!


----------



## Descadent

reason most of us didn't get multi input version was because the multi input versions have more lag


----------



## Fahrenheit85

Anyone get a mini display port to DVI adapter to work with the DVI only model? I got a surface 3 coming and would like to be able to hook it up to my monitor.


----------



## Descadent

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-003J-UltraAV-miniDisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B0030XMREG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1404955162&sr=8-7&keywords=mini+displayport+to+dl+dvi


----------



## kamran224

Anyone know what the differnec between 27Q is vs 27QD/27QW? AccessoriesWhole is listing it for a lot less

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27QD-LED-BLADE-27-2560x1440-LG-S-IPS-Panel-DVI-D-27inch-PC-Monitor-/111103335561?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19de465c89

Is it the same screen/performance as the 27Q?


----------



## Heimen Kobo

Yes.

27Q and 27QD are using LM270WQ1-SDC2~E5 panels.
http://www.panelook.com/LM270WQ1-SDC2_LG%20Display_27.0_LCM_overview_13437.html
27QW is using LM270WQ1-SDF1 panel same as BLACK TUNE series.
http://www.panelook.com/LM270WQ1-SDF1_LG%20Display_27.0_LCM_overview_18520.html

These are all "Bypass monitor" (link only with dual link dvi) expect for difference of panel


----------



## kamran224

Thanks! Is one of them necessarily better?


----------



## Heimen Kobo

27QW is Better.
It is newest AH-IPS panel

27Q and 27QD are old H-IPS(S-IPS)


----------



## Sonah

Hi

I was going to buy Crossover *27QW* when I read these posts here and most of them about bad experiences with Faulty Crossover monitors and people trying to fix them?









is Crossover manege to solve this problems in the newer monitors like 27QW or I go with the "Safe Choice" to Buy Qnix QX2710 ?

is Crossover really The wrong choice? I read lots of people saying this monitor is Noisy have a Buzzing Sound when browsing white Pages ..

I am so Confused I don't know what brand to go with?


----------



## Descadent

buy from accessorieswhole.for 10000th time!

buying from anyone else has proven issues with monitors much better chance from AW

2 years on my crossovers and no issue


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonah*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I was going to buy Crossover *27QW* when I read these posts here and most of them about bad experiences with Faulty Crossover monitors and people trying to fix them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is Crossover manege to solve this problems in the newer monitors like 27QW or I go with the "Safe Choice" to Buy Qnix QX2710 ?
> 
> is Crossover really The wrong choice? I read lots of people saying this monitor is Noisy have a Buzzing Sound when browsing white Pages ..
> 
> I am so Confused I don't know what brand to go with?


I have both the CrossOver 27Q LED (not the new 27QW) and the QNIX2710 and honestly you can't go wrong with either choice.

It's very difficult for me to tell the difference in image quality between them.

I will say one thing though, they are the best quality monitors on the market. Much superior to any other monitor in the $400 range, and comparable in quality as a $900 monitor.


----------



## younghwan91

Hey guys, I have a question that I'd really appreciate if someone could help me out with.

I have a Crossover 27Q-Blade which has a cracked panel (long story short - threw a cellphone at it and it cracked) so it's not usable.
However I'd say the actual internal hardware is fine inside.

My friend has a Catleap Yamasaki (not sure which model) that has a working panel but the mainboard is faulty/fried.

I think I read somewhere these use the same panel, would I be able to use the Crossover mainboard and the Catleap panel together?
- If so, how?

Thank you.


----------



## Descadent

yeah it's same panel. should work


----------



## remedyhalopc

I'd like to get a second monitor to put in portrait mode next to my 27Q. Based on my rudimentary understanding, I'd need to get a 1440x900 monitor to match the 1440 vertical pixels of the 27Q. Right? The vertical measurement is 15"...not sure this is possible.


----------



## Descadent

you don't have to pixel match anything. any monitor will work


----------



## remedyhalopc

What I mean is, I want my UI to match up/align between the monitors.

Similar to how this guy has it set up. Is this possible mix and matching monitor brands?


----------



## Descadent

in that case he is fortunate that dell makes same monitor case in multiple res's with a smaller. you may not be as fortunate. your's are gonna mismatch one way or another


----------



## remedyhalopc

I see. I understand my bezels will be different, but mainly I'm talking about using a VESA arm mount to hold them next to each other, and I use OS X so really the only UI I would need to align would be the top menu bar. I guess my real question is this: Should I buy a monitor that is 1440 pixels across or will that look awful/unreadable next to a 2560x1440 monitor?


----------



## DragonCypher

Hey all, haven't been in here for quite some time.

I initially bought 3x 27Q LED-Ps from red-cap back in April 2012. Managed to haggle down to $385AUD each delivered which was quite amazing.

2 of them had a single green pixel, the other was perfect and apart from graphics card issues (AMD and their shenanigans) they lasted pretty well. Earlier this year I had 2 of them fail, one was the LVDS ribbon cable, and the other was something in the driver board that I couldn't diagnose properly. Merging parts together I then had 2 working and 1 with multiple faults, which I managed to sell to someone for $50 as a repair project.

Last night I took the plunge to get a replacement, 27QW from accessorieswhole, full multi input thing for $428AUD and I intend to run straight display port as suggested by Nvidia. All on a single GTX780 this time so I'm out of DVI-D ports and I never want to touch those adapters again.
I was looking at the Black Tune too, which is a little prettier, but a very questionable stand and $60 extra. The rounded edges may look strange in the middle of my 2 other square frames too

I'll post a pic up when it gets here, should be a nice contrast between old and new


----------



## DirtNasty

Anyone have any suggestions for cleaner for the 27QW? I don't know if it's just me, but cleaning with the coating is a huge PITA, even with microfiber cloths. Any suggestions would be hugely appreciated!


----------



## stephenh89

Hi,

Hoping someone can help me. I just got my crossover and can't get windows 7 to recognize it. I'm getting a black screen at log in for windows. I'm using a ATI 6850. ATI catalyst shows the screen is disabled(never seen this before). Windows shows the crossover but can't set a display to it. Oddly, booting into safe mode shows the display just fine(at a low resolution of course). The display works fine until just after the windows logo when i'm supposed to log in. Then it goes black. I'm using the supplied DVI-D they gave me. I tried another DVI-I and couldn't get that to work either. I just want a display of some sort so at least I know i'm on the right track. Resolution problems can be fixed later.

I tried searching the thread for this but couldn't find anything.


----------



## Descadent

Are you putting it on a dl dvi I or dl dvi d input on graphics card? I believe your gpu only has one of either and other input is single link. Single link obviously won't work


----------



## DragonCypher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtNasty*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions for cleaner for the 27QW? I don't know if it's just me, but cleaning with the coating is a huge PITA, even with microfiber cloths. Any suggestions would be hugely appreciated!


For my 27Q LED-P screens (all gloss, no anti glare) I use alcohol free lens cleaner for glasses. Just a couple sprays and an old tshirt (or similar soft material) gets the majority and then I use a little microfibre cloth for the occasional stains and fingerprints left behind.

Obviously that's not the same thing as the 27QW's plasma deposition coating, but since I haven't received mine yet I can't comment on that.
I see no reason why lens cleaner wouldn't work on it though.


----------



## DirtNasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragonCypher*
> 
> For my 27Q LED-P screens (all gloss, no anti glare) I use alcohol free lens cleaner for glasses. Just a couple sprays and an old tshirt (or similar soft material) gets the majority and then I use a little microfibre cloth for the occasional stains and fingerprints left behind.
> 
> Obviously that's not the same thing as the 27QW's plasma deposition coating, but since I haven't received mine yet I can't comment on that.
> I see no reason why lens cleaner wouldn't work on it though.


Yeah, I had some lens cleaner I bought, and the ingredients just said it was distilled water, of course when you spray it on there it beads up like crazy (I unplug my monitor and lay it flat so I can see the smudges and clean it better since the stand is so flimsy) and when I use an eyeglass cleaning cloth it just leaves smears everywhere until I sit there and go over the same spot constantly.


----------



## Sonah

Hi

is it true that any monitor has multi video input port will get Frame Skipping and input Lag when I try to overclock the monitor?

Because Somebody Just tell me Advise to buy a Single input Dual link monitor if I want to overclock the monitor?

Can I make it Virtual 4K? and what the meaning of "Virtual 4K"?!


----------



## doe3879

After using the monitor for a couple of years. I got these grey shades on the right side of the screen.
I tried wiping the monitor, it didn't work.

What is the cause and can I fix it?


----------



## Sonah

Hi

Can anybody tell me if CROSSOVER 27QW can be overclocked to 85htz whith No Frame Skipping?


----------



## Nina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonah*
> 
> Hi
> 
> is it true that any monitor has multi video input port will get Frame Skipping and input Lag when I try to overclock the monitor?
> 
> Because Somebody Just tell me Advise to buy a Single input Dual link monitor if I want to overclock the monitor?
> 
> Can I make it Virtual 4K? and what the meaning of "Virtual 4K"?!


i heard that crossover would overclock better multi than single input.
qnix isn't good enough overclocing multi. but crossover is better multi overclocking.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonah*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Can anybody tell me if CROSSOVER 27QW can be overclocked to 85htz whith No Frame Skipping?


No. It won't overclock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nina*
> 
> i heard that crossover would overclock better multi than single input.
> qnix isn't good enough overclocing multi. but crossover is better multi overclocking.


Crossover Multi input monitors do not overclock. For that matter, neither do the CrossOver single input monitors.


----------



## Sonah

thanks kevinsbane

I'm disappointed about CROSSOVER 27QW because i want to overclock it to at lest 80Htz its the only Glossy screen in Ebay
I don't like Matte or PLS monitors

is this monitor good for me?
QHD AH-VA Panel

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/111380376174?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item19eec9aa6e


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sonah*
> 
> thanks kevinsbane
> 
> I'm disappointed about CROSSOVER 27QW because i want to overclock it to at lest 80Htz its the only Glossy screen in Ebay
> I don't like Matte or PLS monitors
> 
> is this monitor good for me?
> QHD AH-VA Panel
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-II-Multi-TRUE10-SE-27-2560x1440-Overclockable-Monitor-/111380376174?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item19eec9aa6e


Why don't you like PLS?

THe AHVA panel in that monitor is inferior to the PLS panels in the Qnix monitors, but it's pretty much one of your only options if you want a (partially) overclockable monitor, glossy and non-PLS. It only goes up to ~85hz or so though, without skipping frames.

You can try the Overlord Computer X270OC monitors, but they're sold out right now.


----------



## Descadent

hey everyone, check out my sig if you are interested in crossovers!


----------



## Descadent

still got 2 crossovers for sale, if they don't sell today will be dumped off on ebay.

see my sig please


----------



## rck1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doe3879*
> 
> After using the monitor for a couple of years. I got these grey shades on the right side of the screen.
> I tried wiping the monitor, it didn't work.
> 
> What is the cause and can I fix it?


I have got the same greyish stripe(s) at the side of the screen. My Crossover is about 2 years old now.... It looks like a slight burn or something.



Anyone with a possible solution or anything?


----------



## Dan2014

Hi I live in the UK and I'm new to this forum and to Korean IPS monitors in general so apologies if my questions seem quite rudimentary.

So I'll be purchasing a Macbook Pro 13" with Retina Display and was looking for a monitor to pair it with (Thunderbolt is out of my price range atm), so would the 2720MDP GOLD LED be a good choice as It'd save me buying a Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter or so I've heard or would you advise another monitor which is a similar price. Also secondly, I'm not a hardcore gamer by any stretch but would I be able to use this monitor for my PS4? Thanks in advance for anyone who can answer my queries.


----------



## Descadent

if you don't use dp or mini dp/thunderbolt you'll only get 1080p from hdmi. i have no idea what connections macs have and if you buy the version with hdmi input and a scalerthe ps4 will also work


----------



## Dan2014

Appreciate the reply,

by dp or mini dp/thunderbolt do you mean this cable: http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MB570Z/B/mini-displayport-to-dvi-adapter?fnode=51 or this cable: http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MB571Z/A/mini-displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-adapter?fnode=51.

Also not sure what you mean by connections but here is a link to the mac I'll be buying: http://store.apple.com/uk/buy-mac/macbook-pro?product=MGX72B/A&step=config#.

Lastly what do you mean by a 'scalerthe ps4' will work?

As you can tell I'm not very knowledgeable about these sort of things lol, so apologies if the questions I'm asking seem pretty basic.


----------



## jpdaballa

Hey guys,

I recently had my crossover monitor's (27QLED-P) PCB burn out. not the blue one located in the middle, but the one attached to the side vent. The seller told me that they can no longer replace/fix this problem since the warranty period is over.

Can anyone tell me where to order/replace/fix this issue? I would really appreciate it if you guys could lend me a hand! thanks!


----------



## LouieMGallant

Hello I found this thread after a search and wonder if anyone can offer up some help. I just received not less then an hour ago my Crossover 27QD BLADE. Box for shipping was fine. I open the box and take the monitor out and the first thing I notice is something rattling around loose inside. I am ignoring that for the moment as my main issue is that when I hook it up to my pc nothing happens.
I have a 280x and the monitor hooked up to the dvi d port and when I press the power button nothing. I have a small red led on at the bottom and when I press the power button the red led goes out and nothing takes its place no blue led or nothing and the screen is black absolutely black no image of any kind. I have contacted the seller" lightnspace" and will be awaiting a response as they seem to take up to 2 days to get back to me. I am pretty pissed off about it. Ebay's policy about return shipping is bogus especially when you get an item that is broken right out of the box. This whole experience is really souring my trust for korean/chinese sellers as it is not my first bad experience buying through ebay from abroad. Also note that when I attach to my pc either DVI port windows sounds off letting me know something new has been connected. I know it does not work with the lower port next to my display ports and only dvid but i wanted to exhaust all options


----------



## Janus67

Hey all,

Recently purchased a couple used Crossover 27Q monitors, and after a month or so one of the monitors started smoking. I just took it apart yesterday and found a blown/burnt capacitor on the driver board. I'd like to try to replace the cap to see if it resolves the issue.










Is a picture of the capacitor/board. The model is P1126 I assume, but I'm not sure where to go from there. I went to digikey and searched and it brought me here:

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/capacitors/aluminum-capacitors/131081?k=p1126

But I don't know what to select at that point.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## jetpak12

Hey LouieMGallant, jpdaballa, and Janus67:

You guys should check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1076808/fir3chi3fs-new-indepth-capacitor-replacement-monitor-repair-tutorial

The TC over there should be able to help with replacing caps.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> It seems that every week I find a new Korean monitor club to look into. My understanding is that this one is plagued with the least problems, potentially has a swappable PCB and has the best bezel/stand combo? Why did you choose this monitor, over the others?


My impression is the reverse. Crossovers seem to be the most trouble prone monitors on this forum and is the main reason I havent bought one yet. Shame because I would love to buy one if it werent the case. At 2560x1440.com, they have Crossover pcbs for sale, and it is the only brand that they offer it for. Which strengthens my impression of their unreliability.

Main one I'm interested in is the 2720MDP. Any long term owners (2 years or more) happy with it?


----------



## obiwan-80

Yesterday I turned on my monitor and I find this little surprise :







[/URL]

I do not know if it ' dirt, dust between the glass and the panel or dead pixels ...
Does anyone know if you can ' remove the glass front ?


----------



## OPENbracket

Reporting in, I purchased my 27Q @ July 2012. Ive had the 220v adapter connected to a 200w transformer. Its been over 2 years now and not a single problem thus far!


----------



## Jedicake

Hi everyone. What's it mean when the backlight is making the monitor glow but the monitor is mostly black?

By black, I mean completely black, just a subtle glow all around edges.


----------



## z3speed4me

Were these always capable of doing 4k at 30hz?!?!

I went into my resolution settings yesterday and saw 3840x2160 as an option and thought to myself where the heck did that come from!!

Also what is the best power supply to replace the standard one with? Mine is starting to click when the screen is off and the power is connected, so I have just been disconnecting it at night...


----------



## mikailmohammed

guys where can i get good icc profiles/?


----------



## Agoriaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> guys where can i get good icc profiles/?


Check out CloudZ00s review on the Crossover monitors. In the bottom there's a link to a good ICC


----------



## taker

Any holder 2720mdp can tell me exactly this model mounted panel?

You may also mount the LM270WQ1 SDE3 panel?


----------



## Abadaman

Anyone know what is the difference between CROSSOVER 27QD LED BLADE and CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P? Are they the same except pivot/swivel?


----------



## Abadaman

Also, are the 27Q models PWM free?


----------



## photon787

This is my first post to this forum.

i have purchased CROSSOVER 27QW HDMI IPS LED 27" LG AH-IPS Panel 2560x1440 QHD PC Monitor from amazon on November 2014.

I have two of these monitors i was using it with my old graphics card since November and both monitors work perfectly fine.

primary monitor is with HDMI, secondary monitor is only DVI-D

First week of Jan 2015 I got my new MSI AMD Radeon R9 270X graphics card which is installed in my PC to unlock the full capacity of the 1440 dual monitors.

unfortunately my primary monitor went crazy after one week of installing the new graphics card. Has any of you encountered this kind of problem with this monitor???

now I'm using my secondary monitor as single monitor setup. I have disconnected my primary monitor.

but now my second monitor with single display setup is going totaly white. so i just have to restart the system to bring back the normal status.

appreciate if you could help me to resolve the issue with my primary monitor. any guidance is appreciated.




Video of monitor status



Mainly i use my system for autocad.

below are quick config of the system

Processor: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2Ghz processor
Motherboard: Asus H87M-E
RAM: DDR3 PC1600 16GB
HDD: Intel 530 120GB SSD
Graphics: MSI AMD Radeon R9 270X graphics
Power supply: Zalman 400w LE
one CROSSOVER 27QW DVI only 27" LG AH-IPS Panel 2560x1440 QHD PC Monitor (Secondary Monitor)
one CROSSOVER 27QW HDMI IPS LED 27" LG AH-IPS Panel 2560x1440 QHD PC Monitor (Primary Monitor)


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> Reporting in, I purchased my 27Q @ July 2012. Ive had the 220v adapter connected to a 200w transformer. Its been over 2 years now and not a single problem thus far!


EXACT same combo, and been using it since July 2012 also (what are the chances?!) and not a single problem thus far! I'm thinking of getting my hands on a 120hz board down the road


----------



## chropose

Is NVIDIA GT 730 compatible with Crossover 27Q? Anyone knows?


----------



## ghabhaducha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chropose*
> 
> Is NVIDIA GT 730 compatible with Crossover 27Q? Anyone knows?


It should be. According to NVIDIA, it supports a DL-DVI port, so I don't see why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *photon787*
> 
> This is my first post to this forum.
> 
> i have purchased CROSSOVER 27QW HDMI IPS LED 27" LG AH-IPS Panel 2560x1440 QHD PC Monitor from amazon on November 2014.
> 
> I have two of these monitors i was using it with my old graphics card since November and both monitors work perfectly fine.
> 
> primary monitor is with HDMI, secondary monitor is only DVI-D
> 
> First week of Jan 2015 I got my new MSI AMD Radeon R9 270X graphics card which is installed in my PC to unlock the full capacity of the 1440 dual monitors.
> 
> unfortunately my primary monitor went crazy after one week of installing the new graphics card. Has any of you encountered this kind of problem with this monitor???
> 
> now I'm using my secondary monitor as single monitor setup. I have disconnected my primary monitor.
> 
> but now my second monitor with single display setup is going totaly white. so i just have to restart the system to bring back the normal status.
> 
> appreciate if you could help me to resolve the issue with my primary monitor. any guidance is appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video of monitor status
> 
> 
> 
> Mainly i use my system for autocad.
> 
> below are quick config of the system
> 
> Processor: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2Ghz processor
> Motherboard: Asus H87M-E
> RAM: DDR3 PC1600 16GB
> HDD: Intel 530 120GB SSD
> Graphics: MSI AMD Radeon R9 270X graphics
> Power supply: Zalman 400w LE
> one CROSSOVER 27QW DVI only 27" LG AH-IPS Panel 2560x1440 QHD PC Monitor (Secondary Monitor)
> one CROSSOVER 27QW HDMI IPS LED 27" LG AH-IPS Panel 2560x1440 QHD PC Monitor (Primary Monitor)


Sorry I'm a bit late to reply.

Did you manage to get the problem fixed?


----------



## photon787

Nop.

it appears that i need to replace the monitor.


----------



## emsj86

which crossovers will overclock. I like the one that has the better stand that has height and swivel adustment but does it over clock?


----------



## Audioboxer

I'm about to buy a 27QW with HDMI and I noticed a Display Port model exists now as well. It seems to mention refresh rate overclocking, but through VGA? (or poor translation?)



That image in Korean exists on the Crossover site - http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27QWDP

The other two models do not feature the mentioning of 120hz.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Crossovers and 99% of multi-input 1440p monitors can nor properly overclock (refer to my signature), but Crossover is the only maker of decent multi-input Korean monitors.


----------



## Audioboxer

Bought a 27QW HDMI DP from ta_planet, shipping was super quick but monitor has been stuck awaiting customs clearance since the 19th in the UK







Hopefully the wait isn't too long. ta_planet was quick to communicate, seems like a good seller so far.

I didn't buy a pixel perfect version, I'm really not bothered with a few dead pixels at this resolution on a monitor which I'll mostly be working/browsing the web and playing the occasional game. I don't use my PC for watching movies or TV shows (where dead pixels/lightbleed might be more distracting).


----------



## Audioboxer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audioboxer*
> 
> Bought a 27QW HDMI DP from ta_planet, shipping was super quick but monitor has been stuck awaiting customs clearance since the 19th in the UK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully the wait isn't too long. ta_planet was quick to communicate, seems like a good seller so far.
> 
> I didn't buy a pixel perfect version, I'm really not bothered with a few dead pixels at this resolution on a monitor which I'll mostly be working/browsing the web and playing the occasional game. I don't use my PC for watching movies or TV shows (where dead pixels/lightbleed might be more distracting).


£37 for import which includes Parcelforce's rip off handling fee.

Monitor is fantastic. Minor lightbleed, no dead pixels and a great screen. Stand is cheap crap, but I'm going to mount it on a vesa mount.

I get a little buzz and beep when the screen is turned on, or brought back on from standby. Doesn't seem to be an issue though.


----------



## Koehler

The CrossOver BlackTune series look a lot better though:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XBlacktune+2763AMG.TRS0&_nkw=Blacktune+2763AMG&ghostText=&_sacat=0

I have both the CrossOver 27Q LED and the CrossOver 2763 AMG. Both of them are still fine after 3 years with the CrossOver 27Q LED and 1.5 years with the 2763 AMG.


----------



## Tdoggg

I need a lvds cable for crossover 27qw ips led, I need the one going from board to front display. Any help would be much appreciated. Also My monitor devolved a flicker and aw said to open it up and inspect parts, and I broke lvds cable in process. Not sure what was making it flicker it was like when you put a fan near it, so do I need a new board or something or maybe it was a loose lvds cable?


----------



## holyherbiness

So after about 33 months (less than 3 years) with no problem, my Crossover 27Q won't turn on. It's just dead. I bought a new power adapter, but that turned out to be a waste of money. I don't have any image, nor do I see a blue or red light from the monitor.

I took it apart, and I have a blue main pcb. None of the PCBs have any visible damage or burning marks. I checked all the connections and still nothing.

Any ideas, friends? I would hate to have this thing fill up a landfill somewhere but the ebay seller (bigclothcraft) that i bought it from is wholly unhelpful and says I should visit a monitor repair shop.

I wouldn't even know where to find one.

Anybody have Crossover's customer service information?

Thanks!


----------



## Crash55

My Crossover 27Q LED-P just died after almost 3 years. The brightness was flickering / changing in intensity. Then it went black. Changing connectors on the video card brought it back for a while as did turning it off for a while and then turning it back on. Today however none of those approached did anything. I plugged a different monitor into the same port and it works fine so I am sure it is the monitor.

Is there a way to repair it? I saw some listings for a replacement video driver board on eBay but the last one was sold yesterday. Any other source for these boards? What do I need to check to make sure the board is the correct solution?

Thanks


----------



## MrBox

I'm curious myself as to where I can find a replacement PCB. I seem to have the crappy blue one as most people with issues.

Although my monitor is still working, half of my backlighting went out all the sudden.


----------



## Aplastar

Can anyone give me any insight on this monitor its newly released crossover brand and very tempted to make the purchase

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-CrossOver-285K-3840-x-2160-4K-UHD-Virtual-5K-PIP-PBP-28-Monitor-/321706853794?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae73905a2


----------



## Northstar

QQ ... ahem.

Well.. I have had my 27Q since Sep 2012 and when I got home today I saw a purple blinking light. Pretty much the same exact issue below.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1370644/crossover-27-q-led-monitor-blinking-purple-light

Hopefully the local repair shop can fix this issue for me. This has been a great monitor! I'lll keep everyone updated.


----------



## doe3879

Bought a Standard CrossOver 27Q with only one DVI-D port. At the time I was think, it's only for my computer I never use those ports.
Now I got a PS4 and regetting it.

Any way to get the DVI-D only modle works with HDMI cable? I tried HDMI to DVI-D cable and it doesn't work. I have a HDMI switch and would love to use it with the monitor.
And I can't get my PS4 working with it. It works with the PS3, I don't know what the difference could be.


----------



## Northstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Northstar*
> 
> QQ ... ahem.
> 
> Well.. I have had my 27Q since Sep 2012 and when I got home today I saw a purple blinking light. Pretty much the same exact issue below.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1370644/crossover-27-q-led-monitor-blinking-purple-light
> 
> Hopefully the local repair shop can fix this issue for me. This has been a great monitor! I'lll keep everyone updated.


Quick update - I was able order the replacement part from Accessorywhole - Installed the replacement board and viloa! My Crossover is now working again!


----------



## cond1

Hi Guys,
My beloved Crossover 27Q died after 31 months
I smelt a burning smell from behind the monitor a day before it stopped works and after the failure the power supply was clicked and the green light flashing on the adapter while plugged in.

The status light on the screen flashs between red and blue fast creating a purple color.
I would advise anyone hitting the 3 year mark to be aware as it looks like the board components are coming to there use by date 

green board model no:
HQ-LED2801A1

Any thoughts on how people are proceeding new green board, where can we obtain them?
Are all the 24v power adapter's the same across the range of korean 27 ips if they have the same four pin connector.

Looks like I need a new green board and powersupply as the powersupply is buzzing strangely

Regards,
Cond


----------



## Northstar

^^ read my previous post the (one before you posted ) on how to get it fixed.. its rather easy and cheap! I had the same exact issue.


----------



## cond1

Hi Northstar,
thank for your reply I checked the items for sale by that ebay seller and could not find the board, Do you have to private message the seller.

I have bought replacement capacitors for the board and I am going to replace them all and see if I can bring the board back to life.
I should get the capacitors on Friday so will update on the weekend if the board repair work.

How much did they board cost with shipping?

Thank
Cond


----------



## Northstar

You will have to message the seller on eBay and they will respond. Go with the same seller I did and they will ask for a picture and model number of the board (other side of what you posted). I would not even mess with replacing the capacitors as you could do more damage to the rest of monitor (unless you really know what your doing).

The total price shipped was $50.00. $30 for the part and $20 for shipping to the USA. It's an easy fix and the part was shipped to me very quick.


----------



## cond1

HI Northstar,
Just replaced the capacitors and unfortunately it did not solve the issue.
Looks like the damage was too bad on the board.
I will contact that seller,
thanks for your help
Cond


----------



## Milamber

Is the *2720MDP GOLD LED* the better of the three and can it be overclocked?


----------



## iMica

So my crossover 27 q is having an issue.

I restarted my computer then it decided to never turn on again. The bottom LLED doesnt light up and the led on the power brick is not on.

Then i decided to test multiple computers same result. However I found that if I unplug power brick from computer the LED on the brick shows up again. Then after I plug it back into the monitor the LED ont he bottom right comes on as well. THEN once i plug in the video cord an image appears for a second then the LED on the bottom and the brick goes out. It sounds like a short but im not 100%


----------



## Zack123

And another one bites the dust...

I bought a 27QD around July'13 AND now im facing a red led problem that more often than not just will not turn on. Can someone please help me diagnose the problem?








P.S Do NOT buy from the ebay seller *dream-seller*
He is an absolute scum and has tried to blame the fault on misuse. This monitor is in second to new condition and wasnt used often, I cant really do much now because the monitor is out Warranty. This is the last time im buying anything from Korea.


----------



## chiuaua27

Can somebody tell me the the part number on this Mosfet? My is damaged and the number on the top is not readable and i can't find it anywhere...please help me...it has something to do with the Power On function...I can't turn on my Display... (See the attached image)


----------



## chiuaua27

Zack123 , You seem to have a problem with the LVDS Connector...Make sure the LVDS cable that goes from the Main Board to the LCD panel is plugged in well. Be careful not to push it too hard though !


----------



## Zack123

I found instructions on how to open the 27QD
http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=ac_cms/article&b_id=11

For those that are interested the power board is the problem
model VCB1804_AA
P/NO: VPM-0163



I just need to find a replacement online


----------



## Termal96

Hello everyone !

Pls litle help me.

Some truble in the LED board, FIF22LD-04A

It is necessary to identify the burned chip on the photo, I'm around him with a red circle.

Tracks are intact, passive tying surprisingly, also survived, but an unknown chip SOP-8 body burned

If your monitor has such a fee, please take a look, I will be very grateful to you




name of "burned" transistor P2000EVG

I replace P2000EVG to FDS6679, it's analog

all work !


----------



## daath144

The monitor was bought for 10 months ago by the accessorieswhole, I want to find the guy and rip out his spine for the agony of waking up to having 400 euro worth of monitor just FLY OUT OF THE ******* WINDOW, so its Sunday and do not expect an answer from the guy before Monday to what he will do for me.


----------



## YXACRX

*Termal96* Have you solved this problem? Tell me the name of this element?


----------



## Termal96

Hello friend, name of transistor P2000EVG

I replace P2000EVG to FDS6679, it's analog

all work !


----------



## Born For TDM

Just want to let people know, I have a 27Q LED on sale over at amazon for *234.99*, I bought it as "perfect pixel", which it is. I am moving and dont have room to bring it, the product is in good condition. Just wanted to let my fellow OCN'ers know, if this post isnt allowed or should be somewhere else, let me know and sorry in advance! Just wanted to give some OCN'ers a chance! PM any questions/concerns.


----------



## YXACRX

: D Hi i have a problem for element F1 on this board can you see this nominal


----------



## goodkeys

Has anybody replaced the pcb board of a 27qw with an overclockable board? I've ordered my monitor from accessorieswhole and hope it arrives soon and in good condition. In the future I might think about trying to overclock it, if it can be done.


----------



## Inomey

hi, there is a problem with 27q - periodic violet signal -led. Monitor doesnt start. What means violet signal?


----------



## blue1512

My 10 months 2720mdp gold led needs to "warm up" now. It needs to turn on/off a number of times before able to turn on. Did anyone here have that problem


----------



## maxpower2078

Well it's been over a year since this post but I am not finding a newer model than the 27QW but on the links given for details it shows that these are discontinued yet I see plenty of crossovers for sale.

Is there a new model using the http://www.panelook.com/LM270WQ1-SDA2_LG%20Display_27.0_LCM_overview_4999.html

or similar to something in production?

Basically just trying to figure out what is the latest model being produced and sold in this 2560x1440, AH-IPS segment


----------



## photon787

My CrossOver 27QW HDMI got weird colors on monitor. I posted pics and video in this thread some time ago.

Recently I got a replacement board, which suppose to fix the issue in the monitor.

The actual board in the monitor is VLD0100-BNA but the replacement board I got is VLD0100-CNA, I checked the compatibility with manufacturer and according to them the replacement board will work.

After replacing the board the monitor was fine for just 2 minutes.

suddenly monitor got off by itself and there after no sign of any power in the monitor. just dead. simply dead

when I checked the power adapter the yellow light in the adapter is dimmed when it is connected to monitor. As soon as I remove adapter from monitor the yellow light brightens in the adapter.

I am not sure the problem is with power adapter or monitor.

what do you guys think about the new problem in the monitor ?


----------



## ehpexs

Figured I would link my thread I started over in the gpu section.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1576761/getting-third-monitor-to-work-with-1440p-triple-set-up

I'm trying to get my third crossover to work on a different gpu (290 vs previous 7950). I have a dvi to mini displayport adaptor for the third monitor which is then going to a mini dp to dp adaptor. Talking to a few people it seems that the pinout is the same from mini dp to dp so it should work exactly the same as having the same configuration going straight from dp to active dual link dvi. Most people don't seem to grasp that fact that amd cards require a third active adaptor since they can only sync up to two dvi signals.

Anyways help would be appriciated since I believe that buying another adaptor may not fix any problems.


----------



## rogergamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audioboxer*
> 
> I'm about to buy a 27QW with HDMI and I noticed a Display Port model exists now as well. It seems to mention refresh rate overclocking, but through VGA? (or poor translation?)
> 
> 
> 
> That image in Korean exists on the Crossover site - http://www.crosslcd.co.kr/main.html?tmp=product&pg=27QWDP
> 
> The other two models do not feature the mentioning of 120hz.


Did you end up finding out anything about that 120hz monitor? (supposely 120)


----------



## Jedi21

Hi,

is anyone running a GTX 970 with the 27Q?

I've got this problem 



and trying to rule out possibilities..

I know it looks like a LED board failure, but the repair shop guy says it tests fine..

Thanks in advance


----------



## Corduroy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi21*
> 
> is anyone running a GTX 970 with the 27Q?


I'm running a 3-years old 27Q with an EVGA 970 ACX 2.0 card. I haven't faced the problem shown in the linked video. Perhaps its a software problem (OS?)


----------



## Jedi21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corduroy*
> 
> I'm running a 3-years old 27Q with an EVGA 970 ACX 2.0 card. I haven't faced the problem shown in the linked video. Perhaps its a software problem (OS?)


Well, at least that should rule out videocard compatibility.. Thank you Corduroy! 

I'm on Win7 64 bit, same as the last 2 years and half while the monitor was running perfectly.

Can any of the techies here let me know if to diagnose the PCBs one needs to have the monitor linked up with a pc?

Repair shop guy tested it without, as he hasn't a pc with DVI-D connection..


----------



## warpuck

I have a 27QLED that is 3 years old now. I have used it with these video cards. HD 7870, HD 7790, GTX 690, and currently with a pair of R9 285 crossfired. The monitor does not wake from sleep mode after installing Crimson driver. I don't think it is a monitor fault. I think this is a WIN 10 thing. Just a bit of a pain, if I step away too long and it goes to sleep.
Can't test it with the notebook, because it does not have a HDMI input and the notebook does not have a digital output.
I have been doing a easter egg hunt through the settings. So far no luck.
At least I have a SSD drive.

Still works good, no dead or stuck pixels. It is a 60hz only, really I don't have any complaints. I bought it on Ebay from a vendor based out of Korea.


----------



## coolxal

Does anyone know where I can get a ribbon cable that connects the DP OUT board to the panel?

I tried opening it up to fix the buzzing noise and because of the short cable, one of the pins on the cable snapped off.


----------



## novaspyder

I've got a issue with my 27Q that I haven't been able to find any information on in my search so far. When I plug in my monitor and press the power button, the light in the lower right is momentarily blue for about 3 seconds while the display is black, then the blacklight flashes for a fraction of a second and my light goes to red. It sits on red then indefinitely until I press the button again to turn off the monitor, and then the whole process repeats. I have tried switching power supplies and DVI cables. I am running a gtx 970 as my GPU. I even disassembled the monitor and so no instances of scorching or anything unusual on the inside. Also I don't know if it makes any difference but my power button is a little wonky too and sometimes I need to plug the power supply in and out because the button won't respond. If anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated.


----------



## Agoriaz

Can you test out another power supply?


----------



## novaspyder

Yes, I have tested 2 other brand new power supplies. No change.


----------



## warpuck

Novaspider.
Mine does that almost the same thing. I have r9 285s.
If you running win 10 and it is doing one of its update cycles and does this after recovery from sleep.
Turn off the power supply and reset the BIOS.
At least I can use a stored BIOS setting.
It has happened more than once.

It is just one of those undocumented features in WIN 10. What M$ is doing in the BIOS who knows ?

It has not happened with my laptops.

I prevent it by powering down instead of letting it sleep.


----------



## novaspyder

Thank you for the info Warpuck, but I am actually on windows 8.1

I'm trying to use this as my second monitor and my pc recognizes it. When I go to set my desktop resolution I see it there listed as my #2 monitor. I can drag things offscreen onto it, but it is only blackness. The only light is the red one in the corner.


----------



## warpuck

Mine only likes certain resolutions 800 x 600, 1920 x 1080, 2560 x 1440 and 60Hz. It is an older one also (4 years old now). Linux, Win 7, win 8 or win 10 works that way with all of them


----------



## yarasphoenix

Hello!

OS: win7 x64
GPU: AMD HD 6570 with Dual-link DVI-D

I bought second-hand 27q-led. Seller told it was just fine but when I try to run the system with this monitor I get nothing. Almost nothing actually. It is detected by win7 x64, by AMD Catalyst Control but I get no image. The blue light is on, backlight is on but still - no image.

Tried on another PC with GeForce GT 430 (Same DVI-D plug-in) - same.

Seems that the seller has cheated. OK - that's a problem. But what is wrong with the panel?


----------



## warpuck

If your BIOS splash shows up and you can watch it until it loads Windows hit F8 1st before it loads Wibdows and set the resolution to 2560 x 1440. It also works with 1080p and 800 x600. The older 27Qs had a limited number of acceptable display settings. It has happened to me a few times when Win 10 decided to do its own thing. You could always use it with a bootable DVD/USB copy of Linux to test it.

Could test it with a different vid card mine would run off a 7790 or a HD7870 never tried it with a 6750 still got one of those somewhere.

If the BIOS screen don't show up. The LED driver in the monitor is probably borked.


----------



## yarasphoenix

Thanks for fast response!

I use two monitors - the main is an old Samsung 19'' (1280x1024).

Well, earlier when computer started it showed BIOS screen on both panels then it showed windows starting screen on both panels. Here is nothing. I get starting screens only on the old 19''. The 27q is blank but with backlight on.
Probably I need to have it analysed by service somewhere.


----------



## yarasphoenix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> If your BIOS splash shows up and you can watch it until it loads Windows hit F8 1st before it loads Wibdows and set the resolution to 2560 x 1440. It also works with 1080p and 800 x600. The older 27Qs had a limited number of acceptable display settings. It has happened to me a few times when Win 10 decided to do its own thing. You could always use it with a bootable DVD/USB copy of Linux to test it.
> 
> Could test it with a different vid card mine would run off a 7790 or a HD7870 never tried it with a 6750 still got one of those somewhere.
> 
> If the BIOS screen don't show up. The LED driver in the monitor is probably borked.


Seller says it was OK on his PC. Honestly, I have no doubt he tells the truth.
Windows detects the 27q and I can choose any resolution I want but nothing changes.
Google helped me with some sort of 'EDID'. I will try to figure it all out.


----------



## yarasphoenix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a ribbon cable that connects the DP OUT board to the panel?
> 
> I tried opening it up to fix the buzzing noise and because of the short cable, one of the pins on the cable snapped off.


Have you found the cable? It seems mine is broken too and I don't know where to get one.


----------



## Neofuturist

Please tell me. Broken monitor Crossover 2720MDP GOLD PIVOT, is not included. Did diagnostician in the service center, said the need to replace the system board, but they do not. And order the system board they could not. In another service center was asked to say the name of the system board and make photo. Photos do I could not, because I can not remove the back cover of the monitor. Like all the screws unscrewed, but the lid is firmly seated, there is a small gap at the bottom, but on the sides does not want to be disconnected, afraid to break. How to remove the back cover of the monitor, there is a video?

What are the system board installed in the Crossover 2720MDP GOLD PIVOT? I bought my monitor 1 October 2012. Where can I buy a motherboard for Crossover 2720MDP GOLD PIVOT? Suitable Do mainboards from other monitors?


----------



## i1magic

Hi all,

After having 2 of this great monitor for about coming to 4yrs, one of them has a LED Driver board (The board PCB problem) which was resolved. Glad to get the help here.

But right now, my other monitor is experiencing another problem. Please see the video :






Anybody has encounter this problem? What is the cause of this? Which PCB needs to be replaced?

Please advice.

Thanks you for reading. =)


----------



## yarasphoenix

Guys. once again: does anyone have small lvds cable for 27q led? The one from PCB to matrix? Mine seems to work bad.


----------



## yarasphoenix

And it seems I need the main board. It's called digital wave dw270qdp. Have anyone got spare one?


----------



## i1magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *i1magic*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> After having 2 of this great monitor for about coming to 4yrs, one of them has a LED Driver board (The board PCB problem) which was resolved. Glad to get the help here.
> 
> But right now, my other monitor is experiencing another problem. Please see the video :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody has encounter this problem? What is the cause of this? Which PCB needs to be replaced?
> 
> Please advice.
> 
> Thanks you for reading. =)


I have found the cause of this problem.

The power adapter is faulty. I plugged the same power adapter to another monitor and it has the same problem.﻿

CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM : FOUND!!

Now trying to get the power adapter.


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## oblivious

Has anyone ever removed the white backplate and painted it black?


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## kamikaz2k

I have a Crossover 27QW that was working perfectly until I broke the blue video wire when trying to remove the stand for VESA mounting. Does anyone know where a replacement EDP (LDVS) cable can be purchased for the Crossover 27QW or any alternative to get the monitor working again? I also can't tell what the part number is for the cable.

Image of the damaged edp/ldvs cable:



Any help would be appreciated.


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## i1magic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaz2k*
> 
> I have a Crossover 27QW that was working perfectly until I broke the blue video wire when trying to remove the stand for VESA mounting. Does anyone know where a replacement EDP (LDVS) cable can be purchased for the Crossover 27QW or any alternative to get the monitor working again? I also can't tell what the part number is for the cable.
> 
> Image of the damaged edp/ldvs cable:
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


Try googling and see whether you can find it. Chances is that Aliexpress may have this.

Could you also post your problem and solution (if you managed to) at :

http://www.overclock.net/t/1471025/problems-solutions-crossover-catleap-qnix-shimiam-27-2560x1440-monitors-bought-online-how-long-did-it-last

I have started that thread for sharing of problem and the solution to this few monitor models.


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## Torvi

just joined









Crossover Q27 bought 2nd hand for around 150 usd


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## abstract123

Hello,

I have a crossover 2720 so called gold... I bought the monitor in 2012 and as i moved abroad, i haven't used it much before it stopped working.

Obviously i have the blue pcb with the the burnt mosfet. Sometime ago i wrote to the seller but they never answered (the auction had more than a year so i had no means to make them move).

I'm going to try and replace the mosfet and see if that fixes the issue but I'd like to know if there is someone selling the green pcb. If there is any better solution, please share.

Before ordering a new power brick (UE), I'd like to see the screen live again or have the green pcb on its way

Thanks


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## PatrickCrowely

Okay this problem has come. I have 27Q-LED-P & I have it as a secondary monitor. When I came home today from work. It was off, but my Acer was still on. Now when I plug it into the computer & turn it on, it will turn off. If I leave it unplugged & power to it. The blue LED @ the bottom stays on. The minute I plug my DVI cord in, it loses power. The green light goes off on the powerbrick as well.

Any help would be appreciated...


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## Torvi

have you tried to oc?


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## PatrickCrowely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> have you tried to oc?


Nope, never tried to. I use it as a secondary display. The little green LED on the powerbrick goes out as soon as I plug DVI input to my card.

EDIT: Ordered new power brick & fixed the problem.


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## yarasphoenix

Have anybody got a broken 27q led? I need an LVDS cable from it.


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## DOM.

Anyone know what ac adapter works for the screen? Seems mine is lost seen someone post this one http://m.ebay.com/itm/230838320475?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fcampid%3D5337413396%26toolid%3D10001%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252F230838320475%253FssPageName%253DSTRK%253AMEWNX%253AIT%2526_trksid%253Dp3984.m1497.l2649%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1145032826483&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&_mwBanner=1&ul_noapp=true


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## greenblood

My Crossver 27QLED-P started showing vertical flickering lines all over the screen some time ago. It seems like mine has the faulty blue pcb. I bought it in 2012 or 2013 I think and used it almost every day since then.

Could this be the pcb dying or something else?


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## blued

Could be the ribbon cable connecting the screen to the PCB. Maybe a little oxidation on contact points. If you can open it up, unplug the cable, use a little contact cleaner on it. Might not be it, but at least you rule something out.


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## greenblood

Thanks for the hint, unfortunately that wasn't it. I just cleaned both sides of the ribbon cable with contact spray but it didn't help.

Also took a look at the LED Driver board and it looks a bit burned around the mosfet. Do they still sell the green non-faulty boards anywhere? Couldn't find anything on ebay.


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## DiveDave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zack123*
> 
> I found instructions on how to open the 27QD
> http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=ac_cms/article&b_id=11
> 
> For those that are interested the power board is the problem
> model VCB1804_AA
> P/NO: VPM-0163
> 
> 
> 
> I just need to find a replacement online


Did you find the replacement board...?


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## jimaul

Hi ALL !!!
I'm too interesting where can buy mainboard vcb1804_aa for CrossOver 27 qd
Anybody help me ?


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## Archdregs

I regret buying 27Q. The blur is too high.


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## Mutantx

3 long years and my blacktune has stopped turning on ! it started by switching off while gaming and then coming back on and over the course of a day it no longer even switches on - i just get the red led light! should I take it apart? buy new PCB?


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## CheesyPoof95

Sup guys, got something to solve and need help.

I have a Crossover 27QDHDMI and it stopped working completely, tried swapping power supply to no avail so I opened it up.

On the DW2445_LED REV.01 inverter board I can see a burnt chip, the letters on the chip are PCPCS 9435A.

I have no idea what this means, I Googled and there are different 9435A chips.

Does anybody know which 9435A chip I should buy to replace this one with?

Here's the chip location https://ibb.co/gETDjk

Thanx


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## crzycuyler

I own a Crossover 27Q that only has DVI input. My desktop failed, and I am trying to use the monitor with a laptop. My laptop has a Thunderbolt 3 port (USB type C). Can I use a USB type C -> DVI adapter without any issues? If so, I will buy the adapter. I tried HDMI to DVI, but apparently it won't work because the DVI needs to be active/powered (which I believe the new USB type C is). Any thoughts?


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## echohead84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kamikaz2k*
> 
> I have a Crossover 27QW that was working perfectly until I broke the blue video wire when trying to remove the stand for VESA mounting. Does anyone know where a replacement EDP (LDVS) cable can be purchased for the Crossover 27QW or any alternative to get the monitor working again? I also can't tell what the part number is for the cable.
> 
> Image of the damaged edp/ldvs cable:
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


I just experienced the exact same issue with the 27QW while trying to remove the monitor stand. Were you able to either find the part number for a replacement cable or determine an alternative fix?

This connector fell apart with very little force, as the thin blue cables aren't long enough to allow you to unscrew the back cover and move it into a position that better facilitates removing the (very tightly installed) screws that hold the monitor stand in place. I'm really surprised that I haven't seen more reports of this issue in this thread, unless I missed something. Any advice anyone can offer to help resolve this would be greatly appreciated.

The only issue I've had up until this point is that the picture would occasionally cut out to a black screen with a loud click, then the picture would come back with a quieter click. This increased with frequency over a period of time to the point that I thought the monitor was on it's way out, but at some point it recovered and the frequency of the flicking issue decreased greatly to the point where it would rarely occur. The only thing I can think to attribute this to is the power cord previously being pulled on constantly due to the heavy power brick and short cable. At a certain point I duct taped the power brick to the top of my PC enclosure to take the strain off the power port, so maybe this helped to correct the issue.


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## Jethric

This kind of a random question, but does anyone know if it is possible to buy one of the non-adjustable black/white stands that shipped with the original 27q? I have attached an image of what I'm talking about.


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## Dehatitated

Recently had to buy a new power supply for my crossover 27q here (https://www.amazon.com.au/WELLTRONI...=UTF8&qid=1534782846&sr=8-1&keywords=WTS-2405) the power supply is a lot better than the one the monitor came with (it always had a loose wire but it worked for a long while before failing).


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## WallySimmonds

Don't suppose theres any other places to get those? 

There's one from the US but they're pretty pricey getting it shipped to AU (pretty much half the price I paid for the monitor total)


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## ryant704

Anybody who has this monitor any chance you upload your EDID as mine are broken and have no idea how to. You can use Phoenix EDID Designer to export and upload them, would be apprecitated a lot.


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