# Post your "ghetto rigging" shenanigans



## Lord Xeb

XD No that is awesome!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I can see it, a fire waiting to happen. I need to pull out the other 2 pins left in each molex connector from the wires I snipped, if not, I will probably get shocked next time I touch the molex. I can foresee it in my future...if I don't take the pins out.


----------



## Liighthead

bumpage







for ghetto mods/rigs


----------



## Kamikaze127

Back when I was sleeving my PSU...

Put the sleeving up on a coat hanger hanging off a push-pin holding a ski resort map. Ghetto. Lol.



















My room was very messy and ghetto looking at this time.


----------



## hitman1985

led bar made out of leftover pieces









SEP 26 2011
INFO UPDATE:

as to recent questions regarding the white cable terminals i used, they are called European Terminals, mostly because i grew up in germany is why i prefer to use those, i dont like the US style ones that are bare metal and not shielded... get googling on where to get em


----------



## Pings

Velcro, tape, and zip ties FTW!


----------



## Brutuz

http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...tand-ever.html

See here.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

ghettoness, especially the velcro...and wow at the coke bottle







LOL


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Bump, post em up, Ive seen some around these past few days.


----------



## Lazloisdavrock

Really cool thread. I have had some really Ghetto rigged things in previous builds, just never took the time to take pictures. Its pretty funny thinking about them tho, cuz they worked for along time.


----------



## Conley

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kamikaze127* 
Back when I was sleeving my PSU...

Put the sleeving up on a coat hanger hanging off a push-pin holding a ski resort map. Ghetto. Lol.

<snip>

What desk/s do you have?


----------



## steven937595

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kamikaze127* 
Back when I was sleeving my PSU...

Put the sleeving up on a coat hanger hanging off a push-pin holding a ski resort map. Ghetto. Lol.



















My room was very messy and ghetto looking at this time.










SWEET! goldfish


----------



## Spritanium

It's not ghetto unless it's done with duct tape.


----------



## Kamikaze127

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spritanium* 
It's not ghetto unless it's done with duct tape.

How about masking tape?


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Spritanium* 
It's not ghetto unless it's done with duct tape.

I disagree I like to see random stuff from the yard. Example rocks, sticks, mail boxes, old tires.


----------



## mrfajita

Blower held in with duct tape, and a piece of copper wire tied to the back of the case. $1 mod that took 7C off my GPU load temp. Win.


----------



## TestECull

All of my fans are held on with zip ties. That's about the extent of my ghetto at the moment.

I do have a ghetto-as-hell DVD drive around here. I took the drive out of a DVD player, popped a housing and bezel on it and stuck it in my machine.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrfajita* 









Blower held in with duct tape, and a piece of copper wire tied to the back of the case. $1 mod that took 7C off my GPU load temp. Win.


Lol, that ghettoness is FTW.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrfajita* 









Blower held in with duct tape, and a piece of copper wire tied to the back of the case. $1 mod that took 7C off my GPU load temp. Win.

omg i have an antec blower things, i should totaly do that with mine.


----------



## chatch15117

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...temp-linx.html

That's before I rewired everything. My case isn't ghetto anymore, but that's how it used to look


----------



## BlackHoleSon

http://thereifixedit.com/

/thread?


----------



## Moparman

Here are a few pics.

Back up rig.


----------



## pcnuttie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Well I could not find a thread dedicated to only posting what you have ghetto rigged, so I thought I would make my own. Post any ghetto cabling, ghetto fan mods, ghetto electrical tape jobs, ghetto holes and lights. ANYTHING GHETTO!!!

I will start this off. I wanted to really declutter my cathode wires so what I did was I just straight up cut off the male molex (since CCFL kits always have a male and female molex) and then i wrapped it all in electrical tape (I will sleeve it later, don't feel like it now.

So here is the end result:





Yup, now that is ghetto ^^^^^^^







Post em up!!

Can you explain step by step how you did that? It is very annoying to use a connector. I heard someone done a inverter that can power 4 cathodes at the same time but used a bigger box. I don't know how people do that. I keep thinking a fan controller switch is easier lol.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pcnuttie* 
Can you explain step by step how you did that? It is very annoying to use a connector. I heard someone done a inverter that can power 4 cathodes at the same time but used a bigger box. I don't know how people do that. I keep thinking a fan controller switch is easier lol.

All I did was cut off the male molex from the cables, that's it and wow MOPAR O_O I don't know where to start


----------



## Thedark1337

http://thereifixedit.com/2010/02/11/...ers/#more-7273








Omg that is genius


----------



## CyberShadow

Damn some of these are just Sloppy not Ghetto...... But lol at this thread, keep em coming.


----------



## allenkane

Is this ghetto enough? 120mm fan zip tied to my GPU heatsink









I actually use those little sandwich bag ties now because I had to take it apart and didn't have any zip ties







D


----------



## G33K

My latest ghettomod
I've done alot of ghetto stuff, but none have really been significant. I like my latest one, though, where I attached an AMD K6 CPU fan to my GeForce 4 MX 440. It works quite well, it used to be hot after running for a while, but now even after running overnight, it's cool to the touch. I'm going to try to aim a second fan at my CPU's heatsink now. Screwing around last night, I almost got it working, but the fan wasn't aimed right (and in fact was held in my case by electrical tape >.< wish I had pictures)

Anyway, here it is:


What's really ghetto, I attached the fan to the heatsink by screwing into the spaces between the fins on the heatsink.


----------



## Brian_

before








after


----------



## meticadpa

Yes, that is a raised hole in some cardboard for an optical drive mount, and yes, that is a removable motherboard tray.

(Sorry for the last pic... I was spasming while talking it. >.<)


----------



## Angmaar




----------



## allenkane

Nice cable management Angmaar


----------



## meticadpa

Guess my ex-setup counts too.


----------



## H-man

I'll post pics of 'It makes Nachoes!' when I can, It is a gateway case gehetto modded to properly cool the GPU


----------



## PRloaded

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 




dude we have the same bed sheets


----------



## Angmaar

Quote:


Originally Posted by *allenkane* 
Nice cable management Angmaar









Thanks!


----------



## CyberShadow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *meticadpa* 
























Yes, that is a raised hole in some cardboard for an optical drive mount, and yes, that is a removable motherboard tray.

(Sorry for the last pic... I was spasming while talking it. >.<)

Im lost for words......


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

ROFL, wow very ghetto rigs, especially the zip tied heatsink and the AMD k6 one






































































































Now that cardboard bench is GHETTTO! Im talking about the brown one, the Gigabyte one is alright














I am also running a BloodRage box for a test bed


----------



## G33K

I made a USB charger from a PSP charger yesterday, I'll put a thread up later about it, need to get pics.

Update:

















Thread coming soon
Clicky!


----------



## to_the_zenith

I got out the drill, hacksaw and pliers to my GTX260 and attached a 70mm CPU fan to a 60mm CPU shroud (sticky tape to fill in the gaps), screwed that into HS fins and slapped some silicone around it to fill in the rest of the gaps.

It's not ghetto, it's improvisation


----------



## el gappo

lmao no that's definitely ghetto







does it work tho? temps wise I mean, ram vrm's etc.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G33K* 
I made a USB charger from a PSP charger yesterday, I'll put a thread up later about it, need to get pics.

Update:

















Thread coming soon
Clicky!

wow nice work
















Quote:


Originally Posted by *to_the_zenith* 
I got out the drill, hacksaw and pliers to my GTX260 and attached a 70mm CPU fan to a 60mm CPU shroud (sticky tape to fill in the gaps), screwed that into HS fins and slapped some silicone around it to fill in the rest of the gaps.

It's not ghetto, it's improvisation

















lol AMD fan


----------



## Neutrino

Well it was said to post anything getto, does this qualify?










Tracing the route, you have the belkin surge strip in the back, the 400 watt power supply is plugged there. From the PS there is a molex Y connector with yellow and black wires coming off. Those go to the BuckPuck LED driver taped on top the PS. From there you get an orange and white wire that got to the strip of 3 Luxeon stars on the aluminum strip. Messy, yes. It works though and will soon be redone with the smaller grey power supply. I will also be using 6 leds and mounting them on that aluminum heatsink to the left of the capacitor (which is for some filtering). The end result of all of that is:


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Neutrino* 
Well it was said to post anything getto, does this qualify?










Tracing the route, you have the belkin surge strip in the back, the 400 watt power supply is plugged there. From the PS there is a molex Y connector with yellow and black wires coming off. Those go to the BuckPuck LED driver taped on top the PS. From there you get an orange and white wire that got to the strip of 3 Luxeon stars on the aluminum strip. Messy, yes. It works though and will soon be redone with the smaller grey power supply. I will also be using 6 leds and mounting them on that aluminum heatsink to the left of the capacitor (which is for some filtering). The end result of all of that is:










WOW, ghetto









LOL
NIIIIIICE


----------



## Patch

Notice where the mobo ends but the GPU's keep on going.......


----------



## PsikyoJebus

My linux box until I get something like a nice lascala case for it. It's connected to my HDTV for movies and emulation goodness (notice the USB hub with all the gamepads)


----------



## sexybastard

how about this... using a tea cup and a cd stack to leak test your loop?


----------



## Liighthead

gotta love ghetto mods/rigs


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

my xbox shenanigans. you might be wonding what i was doing








this is an original xbox power the pump and fan of the loop cooling a 360


----------



## mr soft

Water cooled Xbox








There are some great Ghetto mods in here, hanging graphics cards









HereÂ´s mine , Spraypainted the DVD drive, and home made HD silencer.


----------



## hollywood406

Wow! I'm humbled by all this "Ghetto Greatness" but I still have to add my latest foray into seeking ever greater cooling for my poor MSI X58 Pro, which was somewhat crippled by a too-small Northbridge heatsink. What do you all think?

I wanted to get a larger fan on the Northbridge but the space was limited.... well, my imagination wasn't so I managed to squeeze this 60mm in there. Does it work? Oh Yes!














to the tune of about 10c. The Northbridge temp maxes out at about 42c from 52c


----------



## Daney

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hollywood406* 
Wow! I'm humbled by all this "Ghetto Greatness" but I still have to add my latest foray into seeking ever greater cooling for my poor MSI X58 Pro, which was somewhat crippled by a too-small Northbridge heatsink. What do you all think?

I wanted to get a larger fan on the Northbridge but the space was limited.... well, my imagination wasn't so I managed to squeeze this 60mm in there. Does it work? Oh Yes!














to the tune of about 10c. The Northbridge temp maxes out at about 42c from 52c

That is epic! Haha xD

VERY nice idea! +rep!


----------



## Photograph

El-Cheapo HD Cooler thanks to a dab of AC Thermal Adhesive, and yes it sort of worked.


----------



## Ckaz

You can check out a setup I had going for a while in my room. The link is in my sig. Basically I needed to find a way to get two fans over top of my out-of-case setup. So I attached the fans to my side panel, and put the panel overtop a lamp. I used an old PSU, some cd's, and a can of super duster as my counterbalance. Check out the pics


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL nice posts


----------



## tOny3

when its off










when its on, 2 modes, just plain on and sound reactive


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

NICE, do want, where did you get that wall adapter? what kind etc...


----------



## CryWin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
NICE, do want, where did you get that wall adapter? what kind etc...

Cut the end off of one that you don't need. As long as the output matches what you need it will work.


----------



## R00ST3R

Funny, I just posted this over in the H50 fan club thread, where it prolly don't belong. Had I known there was dedicated thread here, I would have made this picture a Post your "ghetto rigging" shenanigins exclusive







.


----------



## maxextz

great thread this, i especially like this mod


----------



## ira-k

These are just a couple of mine, hit my camera icon to see more..







..









A actively cooled 5 gallon bucket res for a TEC, it has a big spin off top so its sealed. Dual pump stand made from the side of a old comp, the base is plexi covered ply-wood. External HDD made from a gutted box. A homemade DICE NB pot. And of course that beautiful back of the mobo fan cooling, hey it worked...


----------



## Jplaz

FedEx label to cover a space between the fan and cooler to keep air from escaping. Lowered temps from 26C load to 25 load.


----------



## tOny3

ahah i found some old phone wall adapter, just took the end plug off and matched up the wires and bam it works


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Daney* 
That is epic! Haha xD

VERY nice idea! +rep!


Thanks! haha I really wanted to try something....... it was just a good thought gone ghetto!


----------



## scrotes

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chatch15117* 
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...temp-linx.html

That's before I rewired everything. My case isn't ghetto anymore, but that's how it used to look









is that a f***ing ruber band rofl


----------



## motoray

It was hot and my fans had not arrived... ZIP TIES+MEGA FAN= Ghetto awesome temps


----------



## 69BBNova

I'm not sure if this would be considered a Ghetto mod...

Its sort of a mock up (HTPC in sig) for a case I want to build.


----------



## yang88she

my old rig w/ a heavy 4850x2...chop stick + extra rubber plugs from a set of old ear phones


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *motoray* 
It was hot and my fans had not arrived... ZIP TIES+MEGA FAN= Ghetto awesome temps

















lolwut























HAHA, nice pics everyone, especially the ghettoness that ira-K psoted


----------



## mr soft

Quote:

great thread this, i especially like this mod
Thanks , this was my prototype










Small mod for my father in law. AC Ryan fan adapter on an old 478.


----------



## Faster_is_better

lol awesome, I was wondering where to post this mod earlier.
Another ghetto NB "spot" cooler.

I had originally made the 80mm pci slot cooler to mount over my GPU, and it lived there for a long time. But in starting to OC, my NB was getting fairly warm, so this was born.

Parts:

80mm? stock heatsink fan from
2 x pci slot covers
2 x metal screws
1 x general pc screw
1 x bread wire tie lol

Build Log?:

I didn't want to destroy my awesome pci slot cooler mod from before, so I was trying to figure out a way to lengthen it or ziptie/wire tie it in there.

Strangely enough another pci slot cover snapped perfectly onto the other and then I just lined up the hole in the bottom with a screw. Screw doesn't really hold much, it just kind of "pins" it into place, fairly loose really.

The bread tie is linked from the 80mm to the cpu fans shroud, and it is pointed in the general direction of the NB heatsink.

I think it takes the temp down about 4C on load

Pics:

Screw "holding" it in place









Farther Pic









Closer up, PCI mating


----------



## Neur0mancer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *meticadpa* 
























Yes, that is a raised hole in some cardboard for an optical drive mount, and yes, that is a removable motherboard tray.

(Sorry for the last pic... I was spasming while talking it. >.<)

One ghetto fabulous rig in this whole thread. Congrats







repped

(Oh I see a couple more popped up after yours, I missed the next page of posts somehow LOL)


----------



## ira-k

This is a vent I made to suck acetone fume out of the room when I'm DICE'ing. It's a foil dryer vent that I run out the window with one of those god awful orange Thermal Take 80mm fans in it..







..Hey now it works better then it looks...


----------



## Rian

A while back when my pc was still in its early days and my 8800gt fan broke

















































Turns out this cooling was much more effective then stock


----------



## Ando

My bench setup for GOOC 2009:




























This is a fan screwed into the fins of my NB in my crappy puda (it was a G31 and ran HOT....this worked fantastic!!)



















And a little fresh air for my HDD:


----------



## R00ST3R

@Ando

I'm going to go ahead and put you down as my teammate in the "unofficial" OCN Ghetto Mod Squad. Not sure if that's duct tape, but it's tape for sure, so you're well on your way







.


----------



## Ando

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
@Ando

I'm going to go ahead and put you down as my teammate in the "unofficial" OCN Ghetto Mod Squad. Not sure if that's duct tape, but it's tape for sure, so you're well on your way







.

Sounds good to me







and yup its just like duct tape but yellow


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

lol wow







some ghetto-ness I have seen


----------



## mr soft

This is win right there.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...2008/vent3.jpg


----------



## Ando

LOLz if you look at my first pic - the mouse pad im using is a scrap bit of paper with ram timings and straps scribbled all over it!!!







)


----------



## Neur0mancer

EDIT: hmm server is down I guess. Ultimate ghetto desk mod FTW

(Needed a PC I could transport out on the deck back when I was a internet DJ lol)


----------



## ira-k

Quote:

EDIT: hmm server is down I guess. Ultimate ghetto desk mod FTW

(Needed a PC I could transport out on the deck back when I was a internet DJ lol)
Now thats cool!...


----------



## zl4y3r

My Toshiba A55 laptop (what's left of it) running inside a box


----------



## BlackVenom

My ghetto vram cooling that works extremely well:
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia-cool...ml#post8507905


----------



## sLowEnd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *yang88she* 
my old rig w/ a heavy 4850x2...chop stick + extra rubber plugs from a set of old ear phones





































Chopstick!


----------



## Sethy666

Hmmm... lets see...

Ziptied fans on a GTX 275 heatsink;









Lets try teflon tape







instead...

And while we are at it, lets use some double sided tape to keep that fan on...


----------



## maxextz

now this is ghetto does it actually work? hell i doubt it but it dosent need to its just awesome.


----------



## noobsrus

LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOL dats Hilarious I was crying wen i saw this. Hahahaha. True ghetto-ness.

I once cut the front mesh off a speaker and used it as a fan grill and I also dismantled a mouse and used the bottom as a light for inside my case and it would onli light up when u rub ur hand over the bottom of it lol.

dis is my ghetto entry, not realli ghetto but i thought might aswel.


























The wiring is comin out of the back of my case through the watercooling tube holes.


----------



## o0jayp0o

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sethy666* 
Hmmm... lets see...

And while we are at it, lets use some double sided tape to keep that fan on...









rofl i did the same thing and i also electrical tape for sleeve and cable management







!! before i knew about sleeves and what not hahaha pics soon


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Double Sided tape FTW, I'm using 4 little squares of double sided tape to hold a fan in a Antec fan holder.


----------



## Volcom13

Temp cooling. Hot as hell in my room. I have my window open, and I'm using this fan to just pump air into the case.


----------



## Smoked Tails

When I really got into distributed computing with XS a few years ago, I rigged up like this.

















You can see my adventures from years ago with putting a shroud on a GC 68 heatsink for my old barton rig.


----------



## sublime-1

cardboard packing spacers to keep servers level.

GANGSTER !

And this is at a fortune 100 company. . . Oh how I love our little Engineering guys. So innovative..


----------



## mrfajita

My super ghetto pentium 4 server, the external PSU is until I get another one to gut out and put inside, because 2U server PSUs are way too expensive.








And its super awesome ghetto CPU cooler, made from a Dell passive heatsink, duct tape, and an old AMD CPU fan. Keeps the heatsink cool to the touch, and reasonably low temps (41c in BIOS)


----------



## nathris

I give you:










Coat hanger wrapped in hockey tape turned video card support.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL










NICE


----------



## Lemondrips

I give you my drink cooler.


----------



## Lightsword

My file server:
4 samsung s3 1tb drives and a maxtor 500 gig for boot
the power supply has no sata power connectors at all so i am using 5 molex to sata power adapters
perc 6i raid card on a cheap amd board


----------



## CL3P20

been posted before but...
*NB GHETTO POT*


















holding down -20c on my MIIF, before I got my NB pot from Duniek









nuther ghetto rig...my chiller rev.2










it started out as a ghetto res..but i dont think a 80$ bottle of Patron is 'ghetto'


----------



## Weedmancz

lol at the patron res. xD


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Man CL3P, that is ghettttto


----------



## Lieutenant_Dan

that patron res is classy man


----------



## TheOcelot

I hope my ghetto picture works o.0









Tis my push-pull configuration.


----------



## mugan23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CL3P20* 
been posted before but...
*NB GHETTO POT*


















holding down -20c on my MIIF, before I got my NB pot from Duniek









nuther ghetto rig...my chiller rev.2










it started out as a ghetto res..but i dont think a 80$ bottle of Patron is 'ghetto'

































EXTREME !!!


----------



## 88Nitro

wow this thread has kept me laughing for a while now, becaouse of the pics +100 points for last-minute ghettoness


----------



## 3dfxvoodoo

i have a voodoo2 that has a piece of scarp metal on it for a heat sink and a Pentium 2 fan super glued on it


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *steven937595* 
sweet! Goldfish


god i want some goldfish so bad right now.


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

Not a ghetto mod but I wanted to try out my old PSU I had for my server.
360W using multiple graphic cards and loads of fans. Added a 7900GS into it later on. worked fine.


----------



## MobAttack

Before this picture fulling loaded and set to its proper size, it was coming in huge, and all I saw was the helicopter blades in the corner and thought "Oh man, this will be AWESOME!"

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volcom13*


----------



## mugan23

HERE is my home made pressure mod i did on a scythe mine

















the thread is here


----------



## welshd1k




----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mugan23* 
HERE is my home made pressure mod i did on a scythe mine

















the thread is here

LOL


----------



## Velcrowchickensoup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Lemondrips* 
I give you my drink cooler.









Dose it work?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Probably not, you cant really "cool" water out in the room like that, if anything, itll heat up to room temp. Unless you have a large enough device to remove heat from it like a refrigerator, it won't cool down.


----------



## GuardDawg30

The NB tp pot is about as GHETTO as it can get


----------



## CL3P20

*humbly bows







tnx


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Hell, I didn't even think cardboard would withstand those temps and would fall apart.


----------



## CL3P20

It just freezes..







..I took it off to thaw, because it was gonna get soaked..1x time use..but easily replaceable. Worked for testing PL10 +560FSB







Working on +597 ATM..NB pot from Duniek keeps temps below -60c now


----------



## mr soft

Quote:

It just freezes....I took it off to thaw, because it was gonna get soaked.
Do you have a preferred brand
















This thread just gets better, some nice additions.


----------



## Enigma8750

*Inside the Dryer vent housing I mounted an 80 mm Antec blue led, 3speed fan set on high.*









*Painted the Dryer vent black too. I am a ******* with Class you know. Notice that the fan wiring runs through the vent chamber and the vent is Filtered with a double layer of panty hose. Cost so far. $16.78. Pantyhose...... Priceless.*









*Reinstalled fan and installed CPU Cooler plate on the back*









*Fan power wire. (speaker wire goes into the flexable vinyl dryer tube and dryer tube is secured with tie wrap that comes with the kit.*









*Open window and install insulation sheld with Aluminum Tape.
Installed flexible 90 degree pipe to the end of Pipe that was cut to fit. Aluminum tape the connection for maximum airflow.. ya'll*









*All done on the inside. The wife will never notice that white dryer vent coming from the window.*









*All connected and fuctioning from outside the window. My Neighbors will always know when Im online in the winter.*

*So in all I was running two antec fans at 100% sucking in cold fridged winter air into my unit right on the air cooler. It dropped my temps on my cpu 10 to 14 degrees C. on freezing cold days.*


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL nice.


----------



## Lefty67

My little Ghetto mod







I was bored

I took the little fan from my 5000+ stock cooler and put it with my Vendetta


----------



## Crazyman0005

iv decided this is where my pc belongs... i will do my best to take a pik of my rig tonight... if you like selotape....


----------



## Crazyman0005

Here is what im running atm... mobo died about 3 months ago... and i borrowed a pc...


























strangly its not actually as dusty as i had expected

(apologies for the horrible piks)


----------



## IBuyJunk

My favorite kludge:

The CPU fan broke so I added an 80mm fan!

*macaroni box* and duct tape
Note the *paper clips* working as an "adapter"









Had some fans wired right up to 12v. Drove me nuts. So I added a switch:


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

ROFL


----------



## redhat_ownage

my dfi didn't give me the vdimm options i needed without buying a new power supply with adjustable rails so i built this


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

keeps me cool at night.


----------



## xd_1771

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Captain_cannonfodder* 
keeps me cool at night.


















I'm thinking of taking one of my fan extension cables (or a molex extension cable) and sticking it through a hole in my case. Mount some spot cools onto my desk and I'm all set for this summer









As for my ghetto mod:








Yep, it's the huge wind tunnel on top of the video card!







Bent cardboard and electric tape ftw








I actually needed it to make sure hot air coming off the top of the video card doesn't go into my first CPU heatsink fan and negate cooling; combined with the Spot Cool there, it actually cools the back a bit.

















Darn closed corner fans... (due to the way the back fan mounts on the CM 690, if it's a closed corner.... well... there isn't much support for it). I had to mount the 80x15mm back fan with nothing but electrical tape








Thankfully, the way I arranged that electrical tape, it can still get some air from the sides








Still fits behind that side panel too


----------



## ehume

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xd_1771* 
Darn closed corner fans... (due to the way the back fan mounts on the CM 690, if it's a closed corner.... well... there isn't much support for it). I had to mount the 80x15mm back fan with nothing but electrical tape








Thankfully, the way I arranged that electrical tape, it can still get some air from the sides
Still fits behind that side panel too

I'll bet some cable tie mounts would do just fine to secure that behind-the-MB fan.


----------



## maxextz

wow either thats a very small pc or your psu is a *monster*


----------



## Photograph

Time for some ghetto laptop action:

Homemade USB powered 80mm laptop cooler made to supplement a dying stock cooler, lots of tape and no solder


----------



## mrfajita

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Photograph* 
Time for some ghetto laptop action:

Homemade USB powered 80mm laptop cooler made to supplement a dying stock cooler, lots of tape and no solder



























Dude...that is so ghetto


----------



## xd_1771

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ehume* 
I'll bet some cable tie mounts would do just fine to secure that behind-the-MB fan.










I shoulda thought of that


----------



## Crazyman0005

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maxextz* 
wow either thats a very small pc or your psu is a *monster*









there is a whoile galaxy in that PSU

but yeh... the case is tiny thus why i cant fit it inside... tho im going to have to soon.... *modding hat on*


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *redhat_ownage* 
my dfi didn't give me the vdimm options i needed without buying a new power supply with adjustable rails so i built this










LOL epic


----------



## alkusoittow

I cant believe no one's posted this yet...










please dont get too chapped, apple fans.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *alkusoittow* 
I cant believe no one's posted this yet...










please dont get too chapped, apple fans.

ROFL


----------



## Slayem

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
ROFL




































































































































































hahaha...what the hell


----------



## Hydraulic

Fan went out on a gpu, i had to do something...quick(err...cheap)


----------



## ehume

What size is the fan? And what kind? Looks like an Ultra Kaze, but that would be ridiculous . . .


----------



## Hydraulic

I am almost certain its an 80mm fan. But then again its one i pulled out of a fried PSU. The brand on it is 'Jamicon" but i really don't want to un-mount it to read the model number XD


----------



## ehume

About right. 120mm/38mm(1.5inch) is roughly the same proportion as 80mm/25mm(1.0inch).


----------



## Intrepid93

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Patch* 









Notice where the mobo ends but the GPU's keep on going.......

What the hell, does that actually work? Lol, I'm sure it wouldn't but then.. why?


----------



## Photograph

My latest ghetto repair:

Replaced a resistor that exploded in a cloud of smoke about four years ago due to a blown PSU, so this afternoon I pulled a resistor off of a drive from the 90's and had to find a new point to attach it as the old one blew off. You can see the scorch marks on the board below from where the original one was.










Oddly enough once I plugged it in to my test system it booted back up into Windows XP right as I had left it four years ago.

While I had the soldering iron out I decided to replace a bulging cap on my GeForce 6600GT that was about to burst and was likely the cause of that cards 3D instability.

So here's the fat cap:










Extracted fatso (bulging at the bottom too) beside it's $0.50 replacement:










And two minutes of work later I have a functional card again:


----------



## Snipawolf

My bro bought me some LED fans and I decided to put them in my case. I then wanted him to go and get more, to put those in my case. I ended up sticking a 120mm intake fan in the disk drive slots (with room for two disk drives), and sticking an 80mm fan on the side panel to provide cool air to my video card. It's nowhere near as seriously ghetto as these other people's rigs are. Haha.




























Edit: Another 80mm fan can fit on that mesh right above the other one on the side panel, so I intend on putting one there.


----------



## Spritanium

That looks pretty cool.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Photograph* 

Oddly enough once I plugged it in to my test system it booted back up into Windows XP right as I had left it four years ago.










Time warp hehe. I wouldn't consider the cap replacement ghetto. Thats some good skills.


----------



## drummerstix11

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Intrepid93* 
What the hell, does that actually work? Lol, I'm sure it wouldn't but then.. why?

They have PCIe Riser cards or something attached. I have seen something like that with a server but it didn't use graphic cards...


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drummerstix11* 
They have PCIe Riser cards or something attached. I have seen something like that with a server but it didn't use graphic cards...

Ya he might be using it for a folding farm. 9800GX2's?


----------



## Purgatory

Thank God for the "*zip ties*"


----------



## wermad

after mounting two 360 rads, didnt have any place to install hdd, came up w/ this










bought the slimmest enclosure i could find, a little paint and zipped tied that sucker to the other side of my case, the door does close


----------



## A-Dub

The video card fan went out on my gf's 4650 a while back, here's my ghetto fix:

Spare 120mm fan and twist ties:


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL the pics in this thread define ghetto


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Photograph* 
My latest ghetto repair:

Replaced a resistor that exploded in a cloud of smoke about four years ago due to a blown PSU, so this afternoon I pulled a resistor off of a drive from the 90's and had to find a new point to attach it as the old one blew off. You can see the scorch marks on the board below from where the original one was.










Oddly enough once I plugged it in to my test system it booted back up into Windows XP right as I had left it four years ago.


you must have had some really good pRon in that HDD to go through all that work to save it.


----------



## SamuelL421

This thread is awesome!









Here's a some shots from a ultra-budget $100 build I did 2 months ago. Bought an athlon II 240 and cheapo ecs mobo, the rest is all leftovers from old builds, freebies, and stuff I pulled from a dumpster (literally, the case included...)

Basically zip tied and velcro'd the hell out of the cables to get all the random parts to fit in the tiny case and used old socket A cpu fans for intake/exhaust



Used the floppy slots for HDDs so I covered the open hole up with a hammered on piece of metal...



I have a truly EPIC wiring setup in my basement for several, mostly old rigs. It is scary ghetto, I'm talking probably a serious fire hazard









I'll try to post some pics up tomorrow.


----------



## SamuelL421

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
you must have had some really good pRon in that HDD to go through all that work to save it.

^my thoughts exactly


----------



## xd_1771

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Purgatory* 
Thank God for the "*zip ties*"


















Do yourself a favour, and flip that fan around to set it as intake!







unless your rear fan is an intake of course.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Snipawolf* 
My bro bought me some LED fans and I decided to put them in my case. I then wanted him to go and get more, to put those in my case. I ended up sticking a 120mm intake fan in the disk drive slots (with room for two disk drives), and sticking an 80mm fan on the side panel to provide cool air to my video card. It's nowhere near as seriously ghetto as these other people's rigs are. Haha.










Same goes for the side panel fan there, boi!







unless your video card fan blows outward of course.


----------



## Purgatory

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xd_1771* 
Do yourself a favour, and flip that fan around to set it as intake!







unless your rear fan is an intake of course.

Well look my sig, H50 + 2x Noctua fans as intake push/pull so yeah exhaust is intake


----------



## staryoshi

Just a few examples...

First 3 pix are no longer accurate, changed my Sugo a lot.
Wanted to mount 2 2.5" hdds without using the 2nd hdd tray. Since it's an SSD it's fine








Mounted a scythe 100m slim as an exhause. (i've built on this concept in the next iteration of this case mod... that will be posted later







)
Last picture is my recommendation to Intel (From Xigmatek Bolt-kit)


----------



## Photograph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
you must have had some really good pRon in that HDD to go through all that work to save it.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *SamuelL421* 
^my thoughts exactly









Gentleman...you are correct


----------



## mrfajita

Even though this attempt to cool my Geforce with an epic Delta fan was a failure (the fan was too thick and wouldn't fit with my sound card) it is still funny and ghetto enough to go here.
I cut the closed side of the blower since I had to mount it backwards, and in the end it ended up looking like this:


----------



## nderscore

Friend forgot his monitor stand and realized after transporting his monitor. Since he didn't want to wait for it to get shipped, we decided on a cooler and way more awesome way to hold up his monitor. Yes, those are two clamps and a random coin jar holding up that 19in Acer beast of a monitor.


----------



## ehume

Not very stable. Attach the lid to a board, screw the jar onto its lid, then do your clamp thing.


----------



## Socom

Rubber bands? Anyone?









Upgraded to zip ties


----------



## nderscore

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ehume* 
Not very stable. Attach the lid to a board, screw the jar onto its lid, then do your clamp thing.

It was only a temporary solution (old pic). Besides, being in an apartment consisting of five engineers ensures that it can take quite a load.


----------



## _Antec_

Hey all, what a great thread! Although not as technical as some the best posts, I thought i'd add my little contribution, I have cardboard, paperclips, rubberbands, insulating tape and packing foam all in there... enjoy.


----------



## _Antec_

oh and that is joanna lumley channeling my intake.....


----------



## mrfajita

Quote:


Originally Posted by *_Antec_* 
Hey all, what a great thread! Although not as technical as some the best posts, I thought i'd add my little contribution, I have cardboard, paperclips, rubberbands, insulating tape and packing foam all in there... enjoy.

Stuff like this are what make me love this thread enough to subscribe it


----------



## _Antec_

Ah that made me smile thanks man!

also maybe its the wrong place but it is ghetto style, im having southbridge issues, pics and post over here

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ml#post8974349

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## maxextz

hey antec great ghetto pics, pieces of card board and a sponge







can you get any more ghetto than that? i don't think so.

also omg you have so much stuff in your case it looks crazy


----------



## folk-it-up

god i love this thread, keep em pics comin!!!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

ghetto to the NESS


----------



## spectre023

well.. my girlfriends res cracked.. how? she wont tell me.

anyway.. i had to operate stat. it was a bad crack, no fixing it with superglue or epoxy or anything, and she has a paper due tomorrow.. so i went to the kitchen to see what i can do till the new res gets here.

this is where the res was: 


and this is where it is now.


yes.. its a tupperware container.


----------



## maxextz

love it.


----------



## Dorkseid

This is the thread I've been looking for...now I don't have to feel like an outcast because of my:

--bungee-cord heatsink fan clip method
--rubber-doorstop case fan mount
--silk handkerchief and sticky magnet modular case vent muffler
--Zalman CNPS 9500 with Silverstone FM121 fan impeller held on by twist ties
--clip-anywhere 80mm fan mount made of binder clips and bungee cords
--mount-anywhere Thermalright X-Silent 140mm fan mod
--Delta fan power-broom/leaf-blower


----------



## ehume

I want to see a pic of that leaf blower.


----------



## wermad

this is my fix for EK's ill-designed 4870x2 block, it dont have raisers as the new ones, some ppl added nylon or fiber washers to prevent the block shorting the pcb and/or nylon screws. when i was ready to sell it due to it not booting, saw this guy on ebay had same block in nickle, had small pieces of tape over screw holes, decided to cover all non-direct contact surfaces, has wrked like a charm, until i decided to mess w/ it and remove some tape, shorted again, back again to its ghetto-fab-fix again, working like a champ


----------



## spectre023

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maxextz* 








love it.

thank you sir









the new res is in the mail... although the "high water capacity" of the tupperware dropped temps about 3c haha


----------



## GuardDawg30

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spectre023* 
well.. my girlfriends res cracked.. how? she wont tell me.

anyway.. i had to operate stat. it was a bad crack, no fixing it with superglue or epoxy or anything, and she has a paper due tomorrow.. so i went to the kitchen to see what i can do till the new res gets here.

and this is where it is now.


yes.. its a tupperware container.

now that is ghetto fab


----------



## UnWantedSoldier

Blue shift while i stripped her down to paint. i needed the system running while i was working on her so after i removed all the paneling i put her back together with zip ties and painters tape lol.


----------



## _Trev

just went through all 19 pages! awesome!!!


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

the tupperware res is awesome! and it matches! leave it in.


----------



## Hellfighter

This thread is full of win!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL at the antec


----------



## spectre023

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-*


the tupperware res is awesome! and it matches! leave it in.


haha.. i would.. but she's hassling me about it.
she said "it kills the look"
i said:
"what are you talking about, you killed it with your poking and prodding impatient fingers."


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spectre023*


"what are you talking about, you killed it with your poking and prodding impatient fingers."


no space but i would sig this! darn chimp!


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

Oh how i love this thread:
first pic:
we have some zip ties (kinda fancy), electrical tape (to hold case leds and stuf in place @ bottom of mobo), a twist tie ( holding top left clear case fan), some fan cable help between pci-e back plate clips, and some yellow wire (hdd bay) holding part of a fan up
Second pic:
we have a couple books holding up part of my desk (the hutch, idk thats what my wife calls it) so my 27" can fit in... but eventually those books will be replaced with black acryllic (this weekend probably)


----------



## Tator Tot

My "computer desk"

It's all I have to say:


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


My "computer desk"

It's all I have to say:











are those freaking boxes?!


----------



## Microx256

im 100% into Ghetto









i'm too lazy to take pics of everything so i'll just post those that has pics already









Ghetto PSU&cooling for my minifridge with a double peltier cooling

















Ghetto LED on-off switch

























Ghetto fanholes (notice how "fine edged cut" the lower fanhole is)

















Ghetto Pimp for the AC Freezer 7

















Ghetto Voltmod using transparent packing tape and a VR taken from a 30 years old radio

















Ghetto Nametag to GPU

















Ghetto Passive Cooling Modification v1.0 to 2nd GPU

















Ghetto place for PSU and extra air-income

























Ghetto External DVD burner (powercables and SATA cable just goes into the case)

















Ghetto HDD sound isolation

















Ghetto microphone amplifier and a directional microphone with echo effect

















Ghetto Do-Not-Lose-This-DVD DVD Holder


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-*


are those freaking boxes?!


And a sheet of plywood under the Tower, yes.

And that's a lap desk on a chair with boxes under need to hold it up and support my laptop.

That's before I crammed 3 CRT's onto that desk in the middle.

I keep Temp monitors and such on the Sony monitor to the left along with HFM.net and Windows Sidebar.


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

microx, i swear you peltiers guys are always the ghettoest ftw!


----------



## Microx256

Quote:


Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-* 
microx, i swear you peltiers guys are always the ghettoest ftw!

well, those pics show maybe 20-25% of my current Ghetto mods..







and ofcourse, there have been much more Ghetto mods in the past not existing anymore..


----------



## garbageacc3

i dunno if its been posted

but here are some TRULY getto mods

http://www.afrotechmods.com/


----------



## Syrillian

Here are a couple of my little ghetto-esque builds.

This is an old system. The cooler for the stock heatsink? ....an Antec Spotcool. Hahahahahahah!










And another rather ugly liquid-cooled travesty.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Something I did with a USB fan I made out of boredom, it wasn't originally intended for this purpose at all but it works, it keeps my cable box a lot cooler. What you see there is the stock AMD heatsink and fan with the sticker removed and the wire modded to USB.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

WOW, my mind is now blown







apart









LOL EPIIIIIIIIIIIIIC XD post #191


----------



## Microx256

Quote:



Originally Posted by *88evgaftw*


wow, my mind is now blown







apart









Lol epiiiiiiiiiiiiic xd post #191












lolololol i got rep+ from the ghettopost


----------



## mth91

i superglued half of an eraser to each of my pumps where they meet the case so I don't get any vibration. LOL


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mth91* 
i superglued half of an eraser to each of my pumps where they meet the case so I don't get any vibration. LOL

I just got a good idea, those foam pads you use for washing dishes.... will make a good foam pad







and they are somewhat free flowing as far as air goes


----------



## Mikeyfly300

I will be done wensday

almost done

Do i qualify?


----------



## zxo0oxz

Upside down ghetto rig.


----------



## BNT

Used a razor blade and a spare rubber eraser to make vibration dampening tabs to keep my fans making too much noise. Ill post pics tomorow


----------



## ben h

yea its mine


----------



## unknownSCL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
Here are a couple of my little ghetto-esque builds.

This is an old system. The cooler for the stock heatsink? ....an Antec Spotcool. Hahahahahahah!

And another rather ugly liquid-cooled travesty.

That's ghetto to you?! That's a work of art to me!


----------



## TCOC

So would this qualify as Ghetto? Only did it for a few days till WB's arrived.


----------



## lurkingdevil

I fabricated a support for the heavy and long 4850X2 out of the body of a cheap plastic pen.
Normally the metallic shroud gives the card structural support and keeps it from sagging too much but I took out the shroud to reduce the noise so I had to give it some external help.



















There are two things to notice in the last picture. First is the green support and second is the 8 pin power plug that I hacked out of a 6 pin pci-e connector and 2 pins from a mobo power plug, held together my tape







.


----------



## scottath

i like my meccano


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scottath* 









i like my meccano

I have those too!
I was thinking of using them in my pc for various reasons(mounting psu, making a support for graphics card etc.) but they just weren't fitting in or were too flexible. I'll find a use for them for sure. Mine date back to 2001


----------



## Boyboyd

Not sure if this qualifies. Made a HDD stack out of foam to allow airflow.


----------



## scottath

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lurkingdevil* 
I have those too!
I was thinking of using them in my pc for various reasons(mounting psu, making a support for graphics card etc.) but they just weren't fitting in or were too flexible. I'll find a use for them for sure. Mine date back to 2001









these are not flexable at all....metal.

mine are probs older than 2001 also.

they work very well - except the thread on the meccano screws is just too big to use in normal holes - but oh well.


----------



## Rajb1031

Some of you guys probably remember these, my "turbocharged" computer case and my psu powered party pumper (lol just came up with that one







)

Here are the posts

Turbocharge Computer Case

Psu Powered Party Pumper


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rajb1031* 
Some of you guys probably remember these, my "turbocharged" computer case and my psu powered party pumper (lol just came up with that one







)

Here are the posts

Turbocharge Computer Case

Psu Powered Party Pumper

i need an axtra psu to run my subs that would be sick o.0
wouldnt have to have battery and battery charger in my room any more


----------



## Rajb1031

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 
i need an axtra psu to run my subs that would be sick o.0
wouldnt have to have battery and battery charger in my room any more

Same here, My subs ( 2 L7's ) are just sitting collecting dust. I probably need 2 1000HX's or something to power them lol


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

man guys i love this thread, keep them coming!


----------



## L3gacy

"you must have had some really good pRon in that HDD to go through all that work to save it." -88EVGAFTW

I was browsing this thread and this just really stood out







I had to personally quote it was so good


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *L3gacy* 
"you must have had some really good pRon in that HDD to go through all that work to save it." -88EVGAFTW

I was browsing this thread and this just really stood out







I had to personally quote it was so good

Put it in your signature man.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Microx256* 

Ghetto Do-Not-Lose-This-DVD DVD Holder

















That must be a one of a kind BluRay pRon video


----------



## L3gacy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Put it in your signature man.
















I put it in my sig its great


----------



## Dorkseid

Rebuilt my Delta Fan leaf blower...and here it is. It consists of:

-Delta AFB1212GHE fan (240 CFM @ 62 dBA)
-ISO-400 300W PSU
-FrozenCPU PSU tester (the safe way to run a PSU without a mobo)
-Sidewinder Computers custom rheostat knob
-PVC fan ducts
-Cardboard box, piece of wooden dowel, plastic vent grate, and some black duct tape

Works pretty well. I'll have to test it properly on leaves come autumn, but for now it's great for clearing dust and pet hair from the nooks and crannies of my kitchen and bathroom.









Larger pics on my photostream:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/overclockalips/


----------



## ehume

Well! I must say, quite impressive.

Now that you have it assembled, we want to see the backpack version, complete with 12v battery power pack.

And then, oh then: the v-i-d-e-o-s. Oh yes.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Well my mic quit working for the third time, I have to RMA everytime, so I decided to tape my 8year old Labtec mic to it

































No worries, I just placed an order for JVC HARX-900 and Zalman Clip on Mic 4 minutes ago


----------



## DraganUS

This was my for a week when I was modding case.
hhaha


----------



## Choggs396

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hitman1985* 









led bar made out of leftover pieces









That's not ghetto, that's just pure awesome.


----------



## Microx256

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
That must be a one of a kind BluRay pRon video



































































actualy that's GTA 1 CD


----------



## moocowman

I just whipped this beast up the other day while bored. I found an old Athlon XP CPU attached to a crappy ECS motherboard and this is what I came up with.


























Yep, a heatsink (totally not for the processor) with a clip from another heatsink that just barely fits and fan zip-tied on. I found a 60GB quantum fireball HDD for the OS as well as a Seagate 7200.9, but I might be using that in my server since it's MUCH faster. 1GB of RAM and an FX5200 to top it off and there you go.. my (IMO) epic ghetto rigged computer.


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

BUMP~ every one has a lil ghetto in there, don't lie


----------



## Sarky

Mini ghetto mod for my server:

It was built using old parts I've aquired, specs are:

1.8GHz Athlon XP 2200
512mb SDRAM
120GB Seagate (runs hot like hell, its got a copper heatsink underneath )
80GB WD Caviar SE

Basically the stock fan was noisey, and as my PC is almost silent, whenever the server was on it was a pain in the ass. Solution:







Basically there is a single screw from the stock heatsink holding the fan in one corner, with the opposite corner a bit of fine fishing wire tired through one hole and onto the case, note the first image. Then the fan in the bottom right has two screws in, literally slotted into the case and some holes drilled for airflow. Nothing inside gets over 45 degrees









If it wasn't for a stock motherboard, I'd try and overclock the thing...


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

whats the server for?


----------



## Sarky

Quote:


Originally Posted by *-=*HERO*=-* 
whats the server for?

I use it for FreeNAS, it had Server '03 on it (via Microsoft Dreamspark), but I wanted to try something new.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sarky* 
I use it for FreeNAS, it had Server '03 on it (via Microsoft Dreamspark), but I wanted to try something new.

FreeNAS is amazing.

I got triple the throughput i got with a very stripped down version of XP. Granted it was still XP though









Getting off topic....

I suppose this lives here. It's my new bedside headphone stand


















Yes, it's a lamp.


----------



## Grim

Well.
These were achieved with nothing but a hammer, and a screw driver.

I had to acknowledge my friend's ingenuity in doing this..

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...el-jigsaw.html


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Grim* 
Well.
These were achieved with nothing but a hammer, and a screw driver.

I had to acknowledge my friend's ingenuity in doing this..

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...el-jigsaw.html

thats awesome!


----------



## Grim

dunno if I mentioned it - but he used the old grills off of old PSUs







.

Seriously - I really dont need a dremel to do such a mod anymore


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Grim* 
Well.
These were achieved with nothing but a hammer, and a screw driver.

I had to acknowledge my friend's ingenuity in doing this..

http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...el-jigsaw.html

I can only imagine the effort required to cut the holes with a screw driver...


----------



## Mr. Mojo

Other than the standard wire ties and duct tape fan mounting, I've only done a a few ghetto mods. The first one was a meat thermometer poked through a hole in my side panel to get case temps. The second is kind of hard to explain. I have a multi-card reader in my 3.5 bay. It was a cheapo (like $10 or so) and it doesn't have a full housing around it. It is sealed so poorly that light was shining through it from my LED fans, and it was annoying and ugly, so I used a sheet of paper and some tape to make a shroud around it. Third, I used a piece of electric tape to cover my power LED on my 690. For some reason CM thought it would be a good idea to use a super bright blue LED for the power indicator, and a dim red LED for the HDD activity. I didn't want to monkey around hunting for the wire on the mobo, so I just popped the front panel off and taped over it.


----------



## WaXyDeAd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G33K* 
I made a USB charger from a PSP charger yesterday, I'll put a thread up later about it, need to get pics.

Update:

















Thread coming soon
Clicky!

Wow, thats impressive. Does it work well?


----------



## Grim

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lurkingdevil* 
I can only imagine the effort required to cut the holes with a screw driver...

Actually, its not as hard as it may sound at first









He basically just hammered the hole out (the screwdriver was sharpened) ^_^


----------



## JeevusCompact

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Syrillian* 
And another rather ugly liquid-cooled travesty.










Where is the Flux Capacitor?







.

Here's my ghetto going 2nd folding shenanigans rig. I don't have a first shenanigans rig but a first folding machine. as you can tell it has been running 60 days straight or so, give or take. Second PSU is running the top fans.


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeevusCompact* 









Duct tape it to the wall? Good lulz


----------



## JeevusCompact

Quote:


Originally Posted by *imh073p* 
Duct tape it to the wall? Good lulz









Nearly if they never thought of tables back in the day, omg what would this world do this day?


----------



## Bully

Not sure if this is ghetto or not, but it was fun to do and watch it die when it got too hot after a short while ( passive cooling an Intel







), take a turntable, remove the innards, drop some PC bits in, wire it up and plug it in.....





and finally....

it lived!! ( briefly )


----------



## ascaii

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bully* 
Not sure if this is ghetto or not, but it was fun to do and watch it die when it got too hot after a short while ( passive cooling an Intel







), take a turntable, remove the innards, drop some PC bits in, wire it up and plug it in.....





and finally....

it lived!! ( briefly )



you should have removed the round base on the electric turntable motor and replaced it with a fan...you could have used the same motor and everything...shame it had to die =(


----------



## lurkingdevil

It actually died or just shut off due to overheating?


----------



## VW_TDI_02

My ghetto cooling system for my Macbook while folding. If you look closely there is some hammermill paper lifting it up off the desk so it's closer to the level of the house fan. Also my laptop cooling pad with two 80mm fans is in there. Also right in between the cooling and the laptop there are four rolls of cardboard propping of the laptop so I can get more airflow going underneath it. Rig dropped it down from 94C while folding with it on my lap (resulted in a few black screens, lol) to around 78C now.


----------



## Bully

shut down to Overheating, the PSU was moved outside ( i had to strip it down to get it in the space available to start with ) and the components used were what i had lying around at the time.

Tbh it was a quick idea, took me a day or 2 with other stuff, i wanted to see if it was possible, but using a standard ATX board and any components i could get my hands on wasn't the best options.

I looked into doing it again with a micro ATX board and several other cooling options, using the power on buttons on the turntable for the usual Power on, as well as what you cant see in the limited pictures, was the start/stop turntable buttons actually open the CD drive.

It is a possible mod in the future and if a micro board lands on my lap and another turntable of similar design ( Tech 1210's aren't that viable ) i'll consider taking time to do it again.

I live on the modding rule that i rarely buy anything when modding ( hardware at least! ) and use what is around me for inspiration and use, so who knows?

This was done apprx 4 years ago.


----------



## B-roca

Today I stepped into the world of ghetto modding!

Ok so was looking through the pile of wires on the floor because i was trying to find my cellphones usb but instead i found 3 little blue led fan's (I think they are 60mm) from one of those usb laptop coolers i plugged them into my computers usb and i was like "DUDE THOSE LOOK ****ING AWESOME!!!!!" I ran around the house and found an old molex to sata cable and ran around some more and found the all mighty silvery goodness that we call DUCT TAPE! so i attacked the wires with some scissors and connected the fans to the molex and secured it with some all mighty silvery goodness and hung them from one of the cable management holes and switched it on and i was like " DUDE THAT IS MORE ****ING AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!"


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b-roca* 
Today I stepped into the world of ghetto modding!

Ok so was looking through the pile of wires on the floor because i was trying to find my cellphones usb but instead i found 3 little blue led fan's (I think they are 60mm) from one of those usb laptop coolers i plugged them into my computers usb and i was like "DUDE THOSE LOOK ****ING AWESOME!!!!!" I ran around the house and found an old molex to sata cable and ran around some more and found the all mighty silvery goodness that we call DUCT TAPE! so i attacked the wires with some scissors and connected the fans to the molex and secured it with some all mighty silvery goodness and hung them from one of the cable management holes and switched it on and i was like " DUDE THAT IS MORE ****ING AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!"

Wut? Pics.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *b-roca* 
Today I stepped into the world of ghetto modding!

Ok so was looking through the pile of wires on the floor because i was trying to find my cellphones usb but instead i found 3 little blue led fan's (I think they are 60mm) from one of those usb laptop coolers i plugged them into my computers usb and i was like "DUDE THOSE LOOK ****ING AWESOME!!!!!" I ran around the house and found an old molex to sata cable and ran around some more and found the all mighty silvery goodness that we call DUCT TAPE! so i attacked the wires with some scissors and connected the fans to the molex and secured it with some all mighty silvery goodness and hung them from one of the cable management holes and switched it on and i was like " DUDE THAT IS MORE ****ING AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!"

post ss or its a lie


----------



## KoolGuy

Does this count?
I ghetto rigged a Router to make it work better
I solder a new attena to it and coverd it with electrical tape. I also added a heat sink from a old pent 4 NB









I also used sand paper to make a hole in the case and forced screws to attack a 50 mm fan to it. I used Masking tape to tape it down


----------



## Geforce_GTX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
Does this count?
I ghetto rigged a Router to make it work better
I solder a new attena to it and coverd it with electrical tape. I also added a heat sink from a old pent 4 NB









I also used sand paper to make a hole in the case and forced screws to attack a 50 mm fan to it. I used Masking tape to tape it down



















Ehh,not really,as long as works better than stock specs.
Is it still safe with a higher gain antenna? Those things put out alot of Ghz as is.


----------



## KoolGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Geforce_GTX* 
Ehh,not really,as long as works better than stock specs.
Is it still safe with a higher gain antenna? Those things put out alot of Ghz as is.

Wait thats unsafe


----------



## Geforce_GTX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
Wait thats unsafe









Not really sure,but dont wifi antennas operate on the same freq. as a cordless phone?Should be pretty harmless.
Cool antenna mod btw,how much more range do you get than before?


----------



## KoolGuy

~5 Feet

The real gain was that now i didnt have to worry about the thing resetting it self in the summer


----------



## B-roca

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better* 
Wut? Pics.









lol I forgot you guys at ocn don't believe anything untill u see pics so i took a quick picture with my phone

I dunno if I'm just making this **** up in ym head or what but it seems to be running cooler because i'm currently idling at 25c


----------



## arioscrimson

That box was where I tested stuff before I put them in the case. The flat head is used for jumping. My headset that I use for gaming until I replaced it.








Currently using a WoW TCG playmat as my mousepad.


----------



## KillerBunnys122

Ghetto?







Ive done plenty more just don't have pictures...


----------



## epitek

KillerBunnys122 wins this post hands down.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *epitek* 
KillerBunnys122 wins this post hands down.

u aint looked through this hole thread have u lol


----------



## KillerBunnys122

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ben h* 

Quote:


Originally Posted by *epitek* 
KillerBunnys122 wins this post hands down.

u aint looked through this hole thread have u lol

Bahahaha Thanks epitek









I havn't looked though the whole thread eather but I can't atm I'm capped! internet is going 5KBps, its hell to load any picture









But I'm almost certain some others have done more ghetto stuff then this.


----------



## ben h

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KillerBunnys122* 
Bahahaha Thanks epitek









I havn't looked though the whole thread eather but I can't atm I'm capped! internet is going 5KBps, its hell to load any picture










But I'm almost certain some others have done more ghetto stuff then this.









lol yup
as soon as i read about ur internet i waz like hes from australia then i looked over and waz like o.0
but that sux

and ya iv had mine like urs just with out the house fan on it


----------



## 3dfxvoodoo

here is my voodoo 2


----------



## Zcypot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KillerBunnys122* 
























Ghetto?







Ive done plenty more just don't have pictures...

lol thats a more ghetto version than mine


----------



## KoolGuy

Those fans probably do more damage then help.


----------



## Bodycount

Serious Shenanigans







The H50 rad wouldn't fit in my small case due to the Vreg being in the way. Here's a old shot


----------



## 00Smurf

As requested here is my ghetto Cooling shroud for my gpu's. It works very well though.


----------



## ehume

Awesome.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

WOOOOOOOOOOOW


----------



## Angmaar

That's amazing. What kind of temp drop did you get?


----------



## Abrajam

i adore your ghetoness lol!


----------



## 00Smurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Angmaar* 
That's amazing. What kind of temp drop did you get?

From 87C idle /99-100C load in x-fire to 65C idle/83C load in crossfire. A single card without the shroud was fine, but when i added in another card the first gpu couldn't get enough air. So now with the shroud, the air is piped directly too the,


----------



## mrfajita

I bought a refurb CM Hyper 212+ and CM store decided to not send me any fan clips, so I had to do it the ghetto way.
















Yes those are rubber bands.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrfajita* 
I bought a refurb CM Hyper 212+ and CM store decided to not send me any fan clips,

I'm sure CM will send you clips if you ask them.

. . . especially if you send them those shots.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Some moar fans, taped of course. I ziptied a pair of 80mms beside eachother and I'm gonna try that out next.


----------



## CrimsonMango

Since I put Project: Threshold together with the CPU + NB +SB loop, I've had some weird problems with USB not working and BSOD's upon Windows 7 boot. I took the mobo off the tray so it's just hanging there by the tubing, and everything works just fine with no BSOD's and USB works fine. I need to check the mobo tray to see if there's a possible area where contacts are getting shorted out on the back of the board, and maybe end up re-mounting the blocks.


----------



## mrfajita

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ehume* 
I'm sure CM will send you clips if you ask them.

. . . especially if you send them those shots.

I did ask, and for the hell of it, I sent those photos








Even if they won't send me them, for $22 its a good deal.


----------



## Crazyman0005

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango* 









i know its ghetto but it looks like there is possably a bit too much strain on that gpu... prop it up with a pencil or somthing. (straws work great too)


----------



## rmvvwls

Back in the day... With one of the WORST computer cases ever made. Can't believe I ever thought it was cool.








Trying to eek just a couple more MHz out of the trusty old Prescott.


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango* 
Since I put Project: Threshold together with the CPU + NB +SB loop, I've had some weird problems with USB not working and BSOD's upon Windows 7 boot. I took the mobo off the tray so it's just hanging there by the tubing, and everything works just fine with no BSOD's and USB works fine. I need to check the mobo tray to see if there's a possible area where contacts are getting shorted out on the back of the board, and maybe end up re-mounting the blocks.










Thats not good. You might crack or bend the gpu pcb. You need to put some support. I can't imagine inflicting such torture on a high end gpu








The pcie slot and the connector isn't meant to handle all the weight of the gpu unless the gpu is light(which its not in your photo)..
Like crazyman said use something to prop it up.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lurkingdevil* 
Thats not good. You might crack or bend the gpu pcb. You need to put some support. I can't imagine inflicting such torture on a high end gpu








The pcie slot and the connector isn't meant to handle all the weight of the gpu unless the gpu is light(which its not in your photo)..
Like crazyman said use something to prop it up.

It looks like its almost flat along the bottom of the case


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
It looks like its almost flat along the bottom of the case

Its hard to notice in the picture, trust me. Its easy to see how much the card sags when you first mount it in the pci-e slot(when the mobo is properly mounted in a case) before inserting the screw.


----------



## CrimsonMango

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lurkingdevil* 
Thats not good. You might crack or bend the gpu pcb. You need to put some support. I can't imagine inflicting such torture on a high end gpu








The pcie slot and the connector isn't meant to handle all the weight of the gpu unless the gpu is light(which its not in your photo)..
Like crazyman said use something to prop it up.

The HD4870 is resting on the bottom rail of the case, no worries, it'll be fine... if you've ever tried to break a motherboard in half, you'd be surprised at how strong the layered PCB of components can be.


----------



## CrimsonMango

more ghetto skulltrail fun:


----------



## Yukss

edit


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

ghetto carpet tech bench









epic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rmvvwls* 
Back in the day... With one of the WORST computer cases ever made. Can't believe I ever thought it was cool.








Trying to eek just a couple more MHz out of the trusty old Prescott.


----------



## prophetd7

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mugan23* 
HERE is my home made pressure mod i did on a scythe mine

















the thread is here

I was thinking of doing this, is it ok, did the foam melted ??
LINKl I got s1283 but not Dark Knight


----------



## PDXMark

This is about as Ghetto as I've got... Sorry if it does not really qualify!



















Yes, it has been dusted recently!

The 2.2GHz AMD pFsense Firewall & Network Controller-


----------



## maxextz

wth do you live in the attic?


----------



## IrDewey

My gletto-rigged folding setup. One OEM 450W Dell PSU, and one 500W Ultra PSU. The Ultra's leads are going through an empty 5.25" bay to power the GX2. I also ghetto rigged an adapter to power a fan from an Xbox 360, but I took it out when I decided to leave the case open.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


Originally Posted by *IrDewey* 
My gletto-rigged folding setup. One OEM 450W Dell PSU, and one 500W Ultra PSU. The Ultra's leads are going through an empty 5.25" bay to power the GX2. I also ghetto rigged an adapter to power a fan from an Xbox 360, but I took it out when I decided to leave the case open.

lmao, and the huge mess of wires behind it not even related to the pc, is the ghetto icing to this cake.


----------



## blooder11181

on my mini itx rig i use duke tape to hold the psu


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blooder11181* 
on my mini itx rig i use duke tape to hold the psu

picz pl0x


----------



## blooder11181

http://www.overclock.net/album.php?albumid=2735

take a look


----------



## IrDewey

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better* 
lmao, and the huge mess of wires behind it not even related to the pc, is the ghetto icing to this cake.

Oh yeah. A bunch of extra 1/4 cables from the electronic drum set it sits next to.


----------



## ehume

This is an Arctic Cooling 12L mounted on a Noctua NH-D14 for fan testing. It has no holes, and resting it on the RAM stcik heatspreaders stops the blades, since the heatspreader sticks though the cage.

So, the piece of cardboard rests on the RAMstick heatspreaders and the fan rests on the cardboard. And loops of common cotton string hold the fan's top corners to the heatsink.


----------



## HSG502

Got a Zalman F3 and a 40mm fan for really cheap at my local PC shop, and the 80mm fan sitting on my GTS-250 was making wierd noises.

I noticed a bit of pressure would help silence it a little, so with some double sided tape, and the old New Zealand 20 cent coin, I began testing using my old power supply. I took the opportunity to test the other two fans and see if they were in good order.

Problem was, I didn't have an adapter for mobo 3pin header to a 4 pin molex. The pictures show how I used a cut up paper clip to power the Zalman, and how I stop the 40mm from destroying my NB heatsink.


----------



## nookkin

Only one hard drive bay? Bah! Let's turn it into 4!


----------



## ez12a

bugged me so much i devised a proper way to mount it the next day.


----------



## ezgonzo

this was my first attempt @ watercooling, it stayed like the first pic for two months until i decided to try and finish it,



















this was as close to finished as it ever got, i gave up in the end cus i realised how unpractical it was.










i then got a new case and decided to do it properly.



















but there's always room for a bodge or two every now and again.


----------



## 69BBNova

I figured I'd post a few pics of my lasted horror shows...

They are not done, I'm just trying different things before I settle on a configuration for both of them then scratch build something...

These are the two rigs in my sig, Obsessed and my HTPC


----------



## DoubleX

sorry no desk?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL at the monitor stand


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DoubleX* 
sorry no desk?










you must be in pain


----------



## KBcobra

hows this?


----------



## W4LNUT5

a lot of you would appreciate this thread









http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...bmissions.html


----------



## DoubleX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blooder11181* 
you must be in pain

yup, you already know it.


----------



## hombredelassrtas

shroud for my 2x120 rad. sucks cool air in from the underside and shoots it out the back keeping the heat from the inside of the case and keeps it for sucking hot air through the rad.


----------



## DoubleX

hombredelassrtas said:


> shroud for my 2x120 rad. sucks cool air in from the underside and shoots it out the back keeping the heat from the inside of the case and keeps it for sucking hot air through the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow thats just awesome, what did you use to cut those plates?


----------



## hombredelassrtas

which plates? i used tin-snips to cut the aluminum sheet


----------



## DoubleX

holy crap i need to get myself a pair of those


----------



## hombredelassrtas

lol i have like 3 randomly around. use them for everything. Often i cant find scissors to cut normal stuff but i always know where those are







It can handle some decently hefty aluminum but this project did not need anything too thick. Actually i needed to to bend nicely for the curve so thinner was ideal


----------



## Dorkseid

Those are nice snips...I have some similar ones and they make short work of steel cases. A must for modders.


----------



## hombredelassrtas

yup. I use them all the time. Also hand for car modding as well


----------



## seklosoja

อรังการงาน สร้าง Amacing


----------



## kromar

here some of my gheto mods









filled cpu block 









cpu block mount









temp sensor on the backside of my ATI 9800pro ^^


----------



## 0newingedangel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hombredelassrtas*


shroud for my 2x120 rad. sucks cool air in from the underside and shoots it out the back keeping the heat from the inside of the case and keeps it for sucking hot air through the rad.

































































not ghetto...that is freaking awesome! case looks great


----------



## hombredelassrtas

thanks


----------



## Dorkseid

I finally found a couple of practical uses for the Nexus Beamair fan shroud...

First, I know lots of people have turned case fans into desk fans w/USB plugs...but those tend to not be very effective due to the scattered airflow. The Beamair thingy makes these much more effective. Here's my Yate Loon desk fan with a Beamair...keeps me cool here at work.

Also (and more relevant to the thread topic) I used a Nexus Beamair to improve the airflow out of my case. I cut out the back mesh grill and stuffed a Beamair in it. Works not only as an airflow guide, but a built-in fan bracket! I'll get pics of that when I get home (at work now).


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dorkseid*


I finally found a couple of practical uses for the Nexus Beamair fan shroud...

First, I know lots of people have turned case fans into desk fans w/USB plugs...but those tend to not be very effective due to the scattered airflow. The Beamair thingy makes these much more effective. Here's my Yate Loon desk fan with a Beamair...keeps me cool here at work.

Also (and more relevant to the thread topic) I used a Nexus Beamair to improve the airflow out of my case. I cut out the back mesh grill and stuffed a Beamair in it. Works not only as an airflow guide, but a built-in fan bracket! I'll get pics of that when I get home (at work now).


Please do. Can't wait. I have three of those things.


----------



## Dorkseid

Here we are. The Beamair, the grill it replaced, the awesome metal snips that made it possible (indispensable to modders!) and the case with the thing installed.


----------



## ehume

Y'know, it's beauteous.

Hmm. I think your avatar represents some of the last work Jack Kirby did. Now I'll have to go look him up. Him, and "O'Ryan."


----------



## Dorkseid

I think it is Kirby...with my minor enhancement of course. I got it from the Superman Site, where I'm pretty sure it was uncredited.


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dorkseid*


I think it is Kirby...with my minor enhancement of course. I got it from the Superman Site, where I'm pretty sure it was uncredited.


I just spent the last few minutes reading in Wikipedia about ol' Jack. Brings back memories. He caused me many a misspent hour in the old days when I was young.


----------



## Syrillian

So my little Folder was getting a little too hot during the Summer months... that and I was using an Antec Spot Cool for both the GPU cooler and the NB/SB.

The poor little Spot Cools were no longer able to keep their respective areas cool enough so I needed to do something about it, and I wanted to keep it air-cooled.

_***ignore the LC'd 8800GTX, the one in question is the 8800GT***_









After digging through my stuff I came up with a couple of 38mm Panaflo fans and a roll of hemp string.

Here is what I came up with:





































The fans can be moved around and re-positioned by sliding the hemp along the framework of the rack they are hanging from.

"Hanging fans"


----------



## XxG3nexX

Hdd held in place with old tubing.


----------



## Fantasysage

I think the PSU/Optical placement and the dremeled sides speak for themselves:










This has worked for over 4 years now...


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL I never knew syrillian was ghetto. That HDD anti vibe tubing is nice


----------



## dracotonisamond

what exactly is ghetto rigging?

i didn't have a drill bit the right size so i used a Phillips head screw driver to grind out the hole so my standoffs could fit.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Ghetto rigging is when you dont have the right tools to do something, so you rig it to work. Or you dont have the money to buy something specific, like HDD adapter or anti vibe inserts and you use tubing. Basically Ghetto Rigging is not doing something right and finding a cheap way to do it.


----------



## Crazyman0005

Anything computer based involving duct tape.


----------



## Bodycount

Upgraded Shenanigans "Still no case"


----------



## Dorkseid

Sort of on this topic...

I have found that the best fan to use for conversion to USB desk fan is the Yate Loon D12SH-12. Something about that fan makes it work well at USB volts and amps. I've tried numerous others, but the only other one that comes close is the Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850 RPM fan. I have a Gentle Typhoon wired into my ionizer in my computer room/cat lair (92mm) and that also works well. Much better than the one that came with it, anyway.


----------



## KoolGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
Does this count?
I ghetto rigged a Router to make it work better
I solder a new attena to it and coverd it with electrical tape. I also added a heat sink from a old pent 4 NB









I also used sand paper to make a hole in the case and forced screws to attack a 50 mm fan to it. I used Masking tape to tape it down



















I still think this was a awsome mod!


----------



## dracotonisamond

lol, so my fan is ghetto rigged.







i didn't have the tools or the screws.

and lol, nice router







is that an old WPN824?


----------



## KoolGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond* 
lol, so my fan is ghetto rigged.







i didn't have the tools or the screws.

and lol, nice router







is that an old WPN824?

WGR614 i believe


----------



## dracotonisamond

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
WGR614 i believe

ahh, yes it is. i didn't recognize it without its stubby little white antenna. i have a v4 and am still waiting on official dd-wrt support. you have any aftermarket firmware on it?


----------



## DiNet

STOP QUOTING PICS
pretty please
it's so god dam annoying


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DiNet* 
STOP QUOTING PICS
pretty please
it's so god dam annoying

56K modem? DSL?


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DiNet* 
STOP QUOTING PICS
pretty please
it's so god dam annoying











You would think by now people have decent cable/FiOS internet.

Either that or you're extremely lazy and you don't even have the ability to scroll


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DiNet* 
STOP QUOTING PICS
pretty please
it's so god dam annoying

Buy more ram up up your speed and you will be good
most new users dont know this and is hard to mediate


----------



## thx1138

That was my set up for a few months. Had to post a sign that read, "Warning!! High Voltage!!" cause everyone wanted to touch the topless PSU.


----------



## Volvo

This is a PS3 40GB cooler cooling and elevating a laptop.
Slippery, yes. But I'll improve on it soon.


























Bought the cooler at a local game/PC parts store for S$10.
Five 5V 40mm fans in there, cheap crap sleeve bearing variety. Can't expect much for 10 bucks, LOL.

Runs off two USB ports and also has a couple of ports at the back.
Meant to plug right into and fit a PS3, so I got two USB extension cables I had lying around, and then connected the laptop to the cooler.

Working nicely so far, though its a little noisy, sounds like a HVAC.


----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
56K modem? DSL?


I think it's because quoting someone's pic post (or someone's quote of a pic post) makes it harder to read the page at a glance, and you lose track of who originally posted what.

I have DSL and it's not a speed issue for me, but I have to read everything slowly and carefully to make sure I give the right people credit...and that's hard to do at work where you have to read at a glance and then minimize quickly.


----------



## KoolGuy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dorkseid* 
I think it's because quoting someone's pic post (or someone's quote of a pic post) makes it harder to read the page at a glance, and you lose track of who originally posted what.

I have DSL and it's not a speed issue for me, but I have to read everything slowly and carefully to make sure I give the right people credit...and that's hard to do at work where you have to read at a glance and then minimize quickly.









So your having trouble reading?


----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
So your having trouble reading?

........................................









No...I'm having trouble sifting through several dozen pic posts that are so nested in quoteland that they don't even fit on the screen when the window is maximized. Plus I can't follow the story at work if I have to scroll, scroll scroll up and down to follow the provenance of a single post, especially if I have to switch to Excel suddenly.

And I'm not even the person who first complained about it, I'm just offering my view of the problem.


----------



## thisispatrick

Does using tape to hold you dust filter in place count?


----------



## tindolos

One of the screws poked through in the middle, so I cut off the water to that channel. It worked on a geo metro once...


----------



## JonnyFenix

My old case took a dump on me, stupid generic cases, I hate being broke! I wanted to game so bad that I put everything on a box and played it like that, also had to use a thumb screw to start it up on the power pins. Ghetto as hell and believe it or not, it ran much cooler and I was able to overclock like madd!


----------



## rpbalmer19

Better internet signal via bouncing waves back to my wireless adapter.

Nothing like free internet.


----------



## Coldnapalm

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rpbalmer19* 
Better internet signal via bouncing waves back to my wireless adapter.

Nothing like free internet.



















this works well?


----------



## slayerzav

I dont have a picture, but once on an old computer I was to lazy to correctly deal with the horribly laid out case of my eMachine so I placed the powersupply where the CD drives went and the CD drive out the back.

Ive done alot of ghetto stuff on my old PCs and my old build but never on my new one.


----------



## rpbalmer19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Coldnapalm* 
this works well?


I went from poor signal to Great.


----------



## Dorkseid

@rbpalmer19:

That deserves the ghetto academy award. It's a golden figurine of Fred G. Sanford (Redd Foxx) making a satellite dish out of beer cans and a toaster.


----------



## xsubwayeatfleshx

Damn! I was using 2 cardboard boxes as my desk and chair at home for like 2 months before i got an ikea. If only i had taken pictures. Oh well.


----------



## Tribulex

Materials:
1 piece of plywood
2 wine crates
1 broken cd drive
neighbor's external dvd usb drive
really old terribad monitor


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 









Materials:
1 piece of plywood
2 wine crates
1 broken cd drive
neighbor's external dvd usb drive
really old terribad monitor


----------



## rpbalmer19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tribulex* 









Materials:
1 piece of plywood
2 wine crates
1 broken cd drive
neighbor's external dvd usb drive
really old terribad monitor

Is that in an Attic?


----------



## Bennythen00b

Heh, put a CPU heatsink on a Radeon 9200SE back when I didn't have a proper computer. It used 2 fans with a seperate power connector, as I needed to be able to turn the fans on/off because of the noise.. Good times, good times.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bennythen00b* 
Heh, put a CPU heatsink on a Radeon 9200SE back when I didn't have a proper computer. It used 2 fans with a seperate power connector, as I needed to be able to turn the fans on/off because of the noise.. Good times, good times.









overclock the chip or try vmod to get more mhz


----------



## Bennythen00b

I did. Think I got a 50% gain (200Mhz -> 300Mhz) or something from it.


----------



## Dorkseid

Good choice...last time I tried something like that I tried a Swiftech MCX6400. 750g is too much for a 7600GT.


----------



## KillerBeaz

its been uber hot lately, and i'm too cheap to buy a normal fan so heres my antec "big boy" keeping me kewl


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

bump here, get your bump here, free bump


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL, we need moar ghetto ness.


----------



## Bodycount

More shenanigans








with powered seats








"Impatience at its finest"


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

thats the most bada** ghettomod i have ever seen!


----------



## neDav

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hombredelassrtas* 
shroud for my 2x120 rad. sucks cool air in from the underside and shoots it out the back keeping the heat from the inside of the case and keeps it for sucking hot air through the rad.
































































I am really digging this...


----------



## hombredelassrtas

thanks buddy


----------



## ostoja88

Quote:


Originally Posted by *allenkane* 
Is this ghetto enough? 120mm fan zip tied to my GPU heatsink









I actually use those little sandwich bag ties now because I had to take it apart and didn't have any zip ties







D



















how much you lowered your temps?

i would like to do something like that


----------



## hombredelassrtas

probably a decent bit though will make the inside of the case hotter. It will probably also make less noise if you unplug the stock fan which would be nice as most of these cards are nasty loud


----------



## Hydraulic

I had to choose two of my three monitors and I chose the two dells because they are exactly alike. Finally I decided that I wanted all three working so I removed the 2nd shelf of my desk and mounted the 19" upside-down using a belt and some wire. So far it has held up well, I keep checking the tension to see if anything has come loose and it seems to be holding. I would say its just as ghetto as my other mods.


----------



## R00ST3R

I'm not feeling the true soul of "ghetto" in some of these recent posts here guys. Doesn't anyone have a pic of their vid card being held up by a petrified cheese sandwich? Maybe some bungee cord action? Anything?


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I'm not feeling the true soul of "ghetto" in some of these recent posts here guys. Doesn't anyone have a pic of their vid card being held up by a petrified cheese sandwich? Maybe some bungee cord action? Anything?

ROFL, the above belt and wire are good enough


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *R00ST3R* 
I'm not feeling the true soul of "ghetto" in some of these recent posts here guys. Doesn't anyone have a pic of their vid card being held up by a petrified cheese sandwich? Maybe some bungee cord action? Anything?

Here's my GTX260 being held by some tiny leather string


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Here's my GTX260 being held by some tiny leather string


















I'm feeling it, and likin' it


----------



## jprovido

fan blowhole on lower right of case. found an old pvc pipe at the garage. cut it with a saw and used some old epoxy i got lying around to mold the pipe with square acrylic cutouts.. painted it and voila


----------



## Hydraulic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jprovido* 

fan blowhole on lower right of case. found an old pvc pipe at the garage. cut it with a saw and used some old epoxy i got lying around to mold the pipe with square acrylic cutouts.. painted it and voila









That looks nice. What kind of change did you see in temps?


----------



## ehume

The fans were pulling the towers apart, so . . .


----------



## R00ST3R

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ehume* 









The fans were pulling the towers apart, so . . .

We got bungee's!!


----------



## MR KROGOTH

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ehume* 









the fans were pulling the towers apart, so . . .

win.


----------



## jprovido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hydraulic* 
That looks nice. What kind of change did you see in temps?

I think it does help a lot. HD5970's gets hot at load especially the metal heat spreader at the top of the card. with the fan blowing at it directly it really improved the temps. id day about 4-6 degrees.
It was a very tight fit with my HD5970. I thought I was not gonna fit when I was installing the card. the tip of the card is actually touching the fan guard


----------



## FiX

I modded a 3 pin header so that the blue cable goes to the motherboard, but the 2 power connectors go molex lol pics tomorrow if any wants.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FiX* 
I modded a 3 pin header so that the blue cable goes to the motherboard, but the 2 power connectors go molex lol pics tomorrow if any wants.

Post'em up


----------



## FiX

Three cables come out fan, 1 goes into motherboard








I couldnt take a pic of the molex connector because its behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FiX* 








Three cables come out fan, 1 goes into motherboard








I couldnt take a pic of the molex connector because its behind the motherboard tray.

Excellent work. Molex power with rpm reporting.


----------



## vartok

this is a bit old... ive gotten a new CPU cooler and case since then.... but i overclocked my x2 5000 from 2.6 to 3.0 and it was causing my NB to overheat... damn biostar for putting a passive cooler on a T-force board...










I zip tied a old CPU fan to the CPU fan and dropped NB temps about 25 degrees










and to me nothing says getto-geek like buying a heatsink that wont fit in your case


----------



## Xraven771

this thread is ghetto but have you ever seen a laptop with no screen inside of a old pc case ......








Insides

















works good just installing windows xp on it now







has no HDD so installing to a 4gb USBflashdrive
0_0


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

wow now that is GHEEEEETTTTOOO


----------



## maxextz

excellent


----------



## blooder11181

nice work
now patent that "thing"
or try to get imac case


----------



## FiX

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xraven771* 
this thread is ghetto but have you ever seen a laptop with no screen inside of a old pc case ......
*snip*
Insides

















works good just installing windows xp on it now







has no HDD so installing to a 4gb USBflashdrive
0_0

No CPU cooler??


----------



## Xraven771

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FiX* 
No CPU cooler??

nah its ghetto style only idles @ about 92oC


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FiX* 
No CPU cooler??

its on the other side








top left corner


----------



## FiX

I saw what looked like a socket and assumed..... I dont do much with the insides of laptops....


----------



## Xraven771

think its the GPU chip you can see ... well it has ATI on it xD


----------



## Nautilus

More Ghettoness (1.3Mp netbook cam)


----------



## Dorkseid

Phase 1: Collect underpants. Uhh...I mean locate old inefficient cooler.
Phase 2: Disassemble stock cooler. Remove weak fan and set aside.
Phase 3: Attach Silverstone Fm121 fan with gaudy assortment of zipties and cool blue 120mm fan adapter duct.
Phase 4: Profit!!


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dorkseid* 
Phase 1: Collect underpants. Uhh...I mean locate old inefficient cooler.
Phase 2: Disassemble stock cooler. Remove weak fan and set aside.
Phase 3: Attach Silverstone Fm121 fan with gaudy assortment of zipties and cool blue 120mm fan adapter duct.
Phase 4: Profit!!

wouldnt it have almost no airflow? the middle of the fan being where the hole is?


----------



## Dorkseid

I tested the fan with the adapter shroud attached...still had pretty good airflow.


----------



## Xraven771

More Ghetto Ness


----------



## De-Zant

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xraven771* 
More Ghetto Ness

































That looks great. I've been wondering how to get my second screen to portrait mode without buying an expensive mount. This looks like a great way to do it!
Thanks!


----------



## Xraven771

Quote:


Originally Posted by *De-Zant* 
That looks great. I've been wondering how to get my second screen to portrait mode without buying an expensive mount. This looks like a great way to do it!
Thanks!









Yeah a free way to do it







well if you have the tools/material . i have more images on


http://imgur.com/workarea

 for more detail if needed







hope it helps


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Man for a brit you do some really ghetto stuff LOL


----------



## Xraven771

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
Man for a brit you do some really ghetto stuff LOL

Thanks .. you love it







Ghetto is the way to go


----------



## maxextz

does the job well done.








maybe you should paint them black and start knocking them out cheap.


----------



## spice003




----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 









hanging in there dont fly away until....................
or
hanging for a moment until...........................


----------



## maxextz

love black cases.


----------



## Photograph

I ghetto modded my BFG GTX 260 since BFG likely won't be around shortly in the event of an RMA. SO I took the proactive stance of making the card cooler and hopefully last longer.

I first replaced the crappy slimy paper-ish stock thermal pads and gobs of chalky TIM material with something much better:










I also cut out the exhaust grill for better airflow:



















Then I put it all back together with the good ol' stock cooler:










And then I made it work even better by bonding a copper cored Athlon 939 OEM cooler to the exposed heatpipe using AC Thermal adhesive increasing the amount of cooling surface area a great deal and bumping the thermal envelope up a few notches.










And then I strapped three 80mm Coolermaster fans on there and I am ready for years of productive folding action







.










Now when folding even overclocked it only hits 60Â°-65Â°, before the mod it was getting into the mid 80Â°'s at stock speeds with the fan at 65%.


----------



## spice003

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Photograph* 
I ghetto modded my BFG GTX 260 since BFG likely won't be around shortly in the event of an RMA. SO I took the proactive stance of making the card cooler and hopefully last longer.

I first replaced the crappy slimy paper-ish stock thermal pads and gobs of chalky TIM material with something much better:










I also cut out the exhaust grill for better airflow:

Then I put it all back together with the good ol' stock cooler:

And then I made it work even better by bonding a copper cored Athlon 939 OEM cooler to the exposed heatpipe using AC Thermal adhesive increasing the amount of cooling surface area a great deal and bumping the thermal envelope up a few notches.










wow mx2 syringe is that big







, how much did it cost, my mx3 is way smaller


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
wow mx2 syringe is that big







, how much did it cost, my mx3 is way smaller

It's a $25 tube. 30 Grams of MX-2

I have one as well.


----------



## spice003

i see.


----------



## Psycho666

Photograph ~ that's just awesome








might do that to my 9800GTX as well


----------



## Photograph

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Psycho666* 
Photograph ~ that's just awesome








might do that to my 9800GTX as well









Thanks man, I may mod my EVGA GTX 260 this way. It's quieter and cooler than stock


----------



## Tribulex

I have a really sick mod i completed today with a slot loader drive hidden at the bottom of my pc. Ill post pics later when im not feeling lazy. Its ghetto because i mounted it (very securely) with duct tape. Plus, its a laptop drive in a pc, and i have a chain of 2 adapters attached to the back to make it work.


----------



## OverK1LL

LOL
I feel better knowing that I am not the only guy who did this:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enigma8750* 









*Fan power wire. (speaker wire goes into the flexable vinyl dryer tube and dryer tube is secured with tie wrap that comes with the kit.*


Instead of running mine out the window, I ran it into the force-air return vent. My A/C has to work a little harder, but it is so worth it.


----------



## Novelty_Glasses

Quote:


Originally Posted by *OverK1LL* 
LOL
I feel better knowing that I am not the only guy who did this:

Instead of running mine out the window, I ran it into the force-air return vent. My A/C has to work a little harder, but it is so worth it.

I do something similar, except I'm so lazy, I just put the computer right in front of the A/C and let it blow right into the intake fans.







The CPU was idling at 13C last night and 18C as I type this.


















I also have a smaller fan blowing on my (2) 2TB Backup drives in the TT DualX toaster. The design of that thing allows the hard drives to overheat on long (3hr+) backup sessions. This seemed to do the trick.


----------



## PCSarge

i will raise your ghetto mod...and add mine
delta socket 478 SFF blower out of an old HP D530SFF PC, used as a suction exhaust for my gpu heat from 2 8600GTSs

please note the electrical tape, i have since mounted it with 2 "L" brackets and some self tapping metal screws to the back of my case

dropped the temps on my 8600GTS cards from 86C and 84C to 70C and 69C

currently only running on 7 volts to keep the noise non audible


----------



## ehume

Electrical tape doesn't last long. You need to move up to duck tape.

BTW - do you keep your rig next to a . . . _drain_?

Now that's not just jerry-rigging. That's truly ghetto.


----------



## Morizuno

I use it for testing stuff; in this case, unlocking some rana's =)


----------



## blue_k

The only thing I have done that could be considered a "ghetto mod" is zip tying 2 fans to my heatsink.


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

I had to Hot Glue the heatsink on my classified..


----------



## 420Assassin

latest ghetto rig.. easy cmos reset switch


----------



## Huzzbutt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PCSarge* 
i will raise your ghetto mod...and add mine
delta socket 478 SFF blower out of an old HP D530SFF PC, used as a suction exhaust for my gpu heat from 2 8600GTSs

please note the electrical tape, i have since mounted it with 2 "L" brackets and some self tapping metal screws to the back of my case

dropped the temps on my 8600GTS cards from 86C and 84C to 70C and 69C

currently only running on 7 volts to keep the noise non audible

The metal looks like masonite... purely craptastic and wonderful


----------



## blooder11181

a friend from work did this


















to cool the laptop


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blooder11181*


a friend from work did this


















to cool the laptop


not bad at all


----------



## Clitcommander

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ever-gain.html

Intake made from cardboard and fans, dropped my temps ~10C


----------



## DJEndet

CPU intake and memory cooling:









GPU intake:


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

LOL that's ghetto


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DJEndet*


CPU intake and memory cooling


When you get it the way you like it, hobby shops sell sheets of stiff plastic you can use for constructing things like this. The plastic and some duck tape will make your air guides less vulnerable to moisture.


----------



## DJEndet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ehume*


When you get it the way you like it, hobby shops sell sheets of stiff plastic you can use for constructing things like this. The plastic and some duck tape will make your air guides less vulnerable to moisture.


Thanks for the tip, might go get some later on and rebuild it properly.


----------



## -=*HERO*=-

Bump - 01


----------



## thrasherht

here is me trying to test to see if a TEC can cool a pentium 4 or something, only like 1.8ghz.








inverter on my dell monitor stopped working so i wired up a new one.









Didn't have the floppy connector for my modular PSU so i used a different one.








Needed a fan on my chipset so i used some wire to attach one.


----------



## mrfajita

The Digital PWM on my DFI gets hot, by that I mean really hot! The inductors for it get even hotter without heatsinks (one has my fingerprint burned into it) so I stuck heatsinks on them (not visible in pic)
I put a fan above the main PWM heatsink to help cool it, and it helped a lot. San Ace 60x38 attached with 3M double sided tape


----------



## 1.21Jigawatts

Quote:



Originally Posted by *420Assassin*


latest ghetto rig.. easy cmos reset switch 





this is one of those things you see and think why has no one ever thought of this before.


----------



## luvsan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *1.21Jigawatts*


this is one of those things you see and think why has no one ever thought of this before.


Not to steal your thunda BUT some high end mobos put cmos reset buttons on the back.


----------



## scottath

mine has one on the back and on a external board that has a post LED, power, reset, hdd activity and cmos reset - along with pins to disable PCI-E lanes.....
and 3 voltage buttons to boot !










anyhow- can we not quote images please - especially ones that HUGE !
if you must - quote one and not the rest......

thanks all.


----------



## Penryn

EPIC shenanigans!


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *1.21Jigawatts*


this is one of those things you see and think why has no one ever thought of this before.


 Ya especially when u see where mine is normally located.. Pain in the arse to get at without removing video card..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *luvsan*


Not to steal your thunda BUT some high end mobos put cmos reset buttons on the back.


my buddies dfi board has a jumper on the i/o panel.. but its still a pain to get at especially in the dark..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scottath*


mine has one on the back and on a external board that has a post LED, power, reset, hdd activity and cmos reset - along with pins to disable PCI-E lanes.....
and 3 voltage buttons to boot !










anyhow- can we not quote images please - especially ones that HUGE !
if you must - quote one and not the rest......

thanks all.


SWEET i want it and then make it work with my dfi board.. But love that idea should be standard on any board meant to overclock.


----------



## Drenlin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Penryn*


EPIC shenanigans!











Did you put deodorant on it?


----------



## svtfmook

water cooling


----------



## LXXIII

My 4890 Vapor-X Vmod:


----------



## Ctekcop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *svtfmook*


water cooling










this is epic


----------



## ChosenLord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dracotonisamond*


what exactly is ghetto rigging?

i didn't have a drill bit the right size so i used a Phillips head screw driver to grind out the hole so my standoffs could fit.










I had the same thing,

didn't like the gaps so i tape it all up!!





































I was getting 16c (in-accurate) on all cores! - and yes they are Delta's (250CFM @ 60db)


----------



## 1.21Jigawatts

So the dell 4800 was ghetto out of box. It had 1 fan in the whole tower that functioned as exhaust and cpu cooler (For a p4 extreme 3.4ghz processor). Any way that craptastic generic fan burnt out trying to keep up, so I had to take some drastic measures to stay up and running during finals.
I know the boxfan PC has been done but i found it so amazing that this actually ran cooler than the stock dell setup. I just removed the fan and cowl; the front panel; and stole a friends mini boxfan.

PS: The fan on the front pannel was an earlier (Futile) attempt at keeping case temps down. I left it there because you had to remove the Hard Disks to get to the screws


----------



## reggiesanchez




----------



## reggiesanchez




----------



## Liighthead

hahaha gotta love this thread


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 
hahaha gotta love this thread

This thread is epic and makes my getto look like royalty.


----------



## tmunn

Garbage bag twist tie holding a 6cm, 4200rpm fan to the mosfet heatsink.


----------



## A-Dub

Quote:



Originally Posted by *1.21Jigawatts*


this is one of those things you see and think why has no one ever thought of this before.



I discovered that a standard on/off switch from most power supplies will fit perfectly in an empty expansion slot. I'm sure most of us have a dead psu sitting in a box/closet somewhere. Makes for a cheap/quick/ghetto cmos reset switch.


----------



## digitally

this was back in the day, taped an abandoned p2 fan on a g-force 6200


----------



## Penryn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drenlin*


Did you put deodorant on it?










Yea, I used it as thermal paste! Now my cpu is cool and sweat free!


----------



## Bennythen00b

Quote:


Originally Posted by *A-Dub* 
I discovered that a standard on/off switch from most power supplies will fit perfectly in an empty expansion slot. I'm sure most of us have a dead psu sitting in a box/closet somewhere. Makes for a cheap/quick/ghetto cmos reset switch.

Oooh, thanks mate.









*makes himself a cmos switch*


----------



## foothead

Homemade 12 cell laptop battery. There's tons more of this type of thing coming soon.


----------



## Shozzking

I dont have pics anymore but on my first build I was too cheap to buy zip ties so I used scotch tape to make it look *half decent*


----------



## foothead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shozzking*


I dont have pics anymore but on my first build I was too cheap to buy zip ties so I used scotch tape to make it look *half decent*


Nothing wrong with that. I frequently use electrical tape in my builds. It's great for securing wires to the side of the case.

EDIT: Here's the 18 cell version:










These are both going in my GhettoBook (homemade giant laptop) along with a 24 cell battery. I'm still waiting on the new cells for that one. 54 cell laptop battery FTW!

EDIT: LOL, this is not your average laptop battery.


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *A-Dub* 
I discovered that a standard on/off switch from most power supplies will fit perfectly in an empty expansion slot. I'm sure most of us have a dead psu sitting in a box/closet somewhere. Makes for a cheap/quick/ghetto cmos reset switch.

How would that work.. cmos needs 3 pins.. 1-2 Cmos norman... 2-3reset... psu switch is on/off.. only way i would see id always have the 1-2 connected and have 2-3 go thru switch but not sure if that would work


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


Originally Posted by *420Assassin* 
How would that work.. cmos needs 3 pins.. 1-2 Cmos norman... 2-3reset... psu switch is on/off.. only way i would see id always have the 1-2 connected and have 2-3 go thru switch but not sure if that would work

I think you might be mistaken a little, the 1-2 position is only there for a holding place for the jumper, because if you remove the jumper nothing changes, so if you were to hook the switch to 2-3 and leave it off that would be normal, then when you turned the switch on it would jump 2-3 and reset your cmos.


----------



## 420Assassin

maby.. i remember having a few boards where if i had no jumper connected for cmos it wouldnt boot.. needed the 1-2 connection.. but that was on an older board aswell.


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


Originally Posted by *foothead* 
Nothing wrong with that. I frequently use electrical tape in my builds. It's great for securing wires to the side of the case.

EDIT: Here's the 18 cell version:










These are both going in my GhettoBook (homemade giant laptop) along with a 24 cell battery. I'm still waiting on the new cells for that one. 54 cell laptop battery FTW!

EDIT: LOL, this is not your average laptop battery.









Looks like dynamite, haha


----------



## jprovido

the fan on my 8800gtx aftermarket cooler melted, It wasn't running and when I noticed it the gpu was burning hot and melted the fan in the cooler. fortunately the gpu was not fried and was still working fine. I didn't want to spend money on the cooler and the stock cooler sucked so I did some ghetto modding









this was the stock cooler but im not gonna use this. temps are too high. I hate it









ghetto cooler

































I used a 120mm industrial fan. a bit heavy but is made of metal and really quiet but fast (I think about 2000-2200rpm) I used copper wires to place the fan in place. I tried running the card with the fan turned off the fan itself absorbs the heat from the cooler and I think because it's metal it also helps dissipating the heat.
I also modded the side panel on the case(I did this about 3 months ago). installed a fan shroud and two high performance silverstone 80mm pointing directly to the graphjics cards








temps improved about 5-7degrees from the zalman zv4000 cooler. my furmark temps is 67degrees. and 53 degrees full load at games. pretty impressive for a 8800gtx!


----------



## sexybastard

^ lol thats some hardcore cooling









here's mine. I lost one of the washers for my coolermaster geminii so I had to find a solution to mount it securely. I found a tiny washer that fit the thread perfectly but was too small and would go through the plastic washer underneath. I decided I needed a washer of some sort to provide the necessary width. Being quite cheap and lazy I decided to drill a hole into a 10cent piece and use that. Saved me a trip to Lowes and it worked perfectly.

Behold my genius!


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *foothead* 
Nothing wrong with that. I frequently use electrical tape in my builds. It's great for securing wires to the side of the case.

EDIT: Here's the 18 cell version:










These are both going in my GhettoBook (homemade giant laptop) along with a 24 cell battery. I'm still waiting on the new cells for that one. 54 cell laptop battery FTW!

EDIT: LOL, this is not your average laptop battery.









I think the FBI is watching you now


----------



## foothead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW* 
I think the FBI is watching you now









Everyone keeps saying that. I'm pretty sure the FBI can tell the difference between a bomb and a battery.


----------



## Rookie1337

So what I've learned from this thread is that I don't need a computer case, a ten cent piece will work as a riser, and TNT can power a computer.


----------



## Humphrey

I miss the days of ghetto rigging, I once made a ghetto case out of a 2x4 and a card board box and just ducktaped and rubberbanded everything in. I wish i had pictures of that but it was the days before digital cameras.


----------



## foothead

I am master of ghetto rigging things...





































Twist tie + pegboard = wall mounted monitor. My last mount for this monitor was actually made out of a binder and some old case screws.

EDIT: Found a picture of that.


----------



## xd_1771

So I've got a broken aluminum slab of Intel stock heatsink, a stock heatsink fan that still works, a very-low-profile AMD heatsink, a whole bunch of PCI slot covers, two SFF cases, two cheapo ATX cases, at least two other heavier-material mATX cases, some small (i.e. 60mm, 80x15mm) fans, a lot of spare regular-sized fans..... I feel like doing something ghetto; I wonder what


----------



## 88EVGAFTW

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xd_1771* 
So I've got a broken aluminum slab of Intel stock heatsink, a stock heatsink fan that still works, a very-low-profile AMD heatsink, a whole bunch of PCI slot covers, two SFF cases, two cheapo ATX cases, at least two other heavier-material mATX cases, some small (i.e. 60mm, 80x15mm) fans, a lot of spare regular-sized fans..... I feel like doing something ghetto; I wonder what









make a radiator.


----------



## Silvos00

I'll try to replicate it, but I had a weird, if not awesome setup for a few weeks a while back while waiting for my new case. It include a H50 rad zip tied to the outside of my case, Rubber bands holding my HDDs in place, and 3 fans on that flexible metal hosing to spot-cool certain areas. I'm not sure if I have the home made fan holder, but the others I can do.


----------



## foothead

Behold the wonder that is... wall-mounted compaq.










Yes, that is a fan grille holding up the HDD.


----------



## foothead

Im pretty sure my dad just won this thread.

TV in the bookcase










The same TV over the fireplace.










How it works





































That TV is a 50 inch samsung plasma. It weighs at least 60 pounds.


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


Originally Posted by *foothead* 
Im pretty sure my dad just won this thread.

TV in the bookcase

....

The same TV over the fireplace.

....

How it works

....

That TV is a 50 inch samsung plasma. It weighs at least 60 pounds.


Wow...just wow..


----------



## cyronn

nice but dont understand how is it ghetto ?

edit: should be more like modded bookcase or something and making own tv bracket.

edit: even with the resized pics i still dont understand....


----------



## Mit Namso

I don't have a camera, but...

On my Asus EAH5670 1GB, the 4 topside RAM chips don't make contact with the aluminum heatsink, (which has a fan of course).

So I cut 4 little pieces of very thin steel from some steel plate on my P2350(which has a broken screen), and filed them smooth. I used a little tape on 1 end of each of the metal rectangles to hold them in place, and then used some Antec formula 5 sliver compound on the chips, and the GPU, then used the grease on the top side of the 4 pieces of metal. Then I screwed the heatsink back on as tight as it would go, but the 4 metal plates could still slide, but the thermal grease is sticky. CD-ROM case metal was just slightly too thick.

But at least now the RAM is in contact with the heatsink, and the airflow around them before was next to none, so that should be better.

On the bottom of the card, there are another 4 Ram chips exactly underneath the topside ones, so I used some CD-ROM case foam, cut 4 pieces and put over the screws that hold the heatsink on the other side, then I electric taped a 4-5cm 12V fan that fit roughly over the 4 screw heads. The RAM chips are not under the fan however, but they are very close, and I taped off one side of the fan, so they get a good draft over they ram chips.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mit Namso* 
I don't have a camera, but...

On my Asus EAH5670 1GB, the 4 topside RAM chips don't make contact with the aluminum heatsink, (which has a fan of course).

So I cut 4 little pieces of very thin steel from some steel plate on my P2350(which has a broken screen), and filed them smooth. I used a little tape on 1 end of each of the metal rectangles to hold them in place, and then used some Antec formula 5 sliver compound on the chips, and the GPU, then used the grease on the top side of the 4 pieces of metal. Then I screwed the heatsink back on as tight as it would go, but the 4 metal plates could still slide, but the thermal grease is sticky. CD-ROM case metal was just slightly too thick.

But at least now the RAM is in contact with the heatsink, and the airflow around them before was next to none, so that should be better.

On the bottom of the card, there are another 4 Ram chips exactly underneath the topside ones, so I used some CD-ROM case foam, cut 4 pieces and put over the screws that hold the heatsink on the other side, then I electric taped a 4-5cm 12V fan that fit roughly over the 4 screw heads. The RAM chips are not under the fan however, but they are very close, and I taped off one side of the fan, so they get a good draft over they ram chips.

wait wat.... picturess


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Plasma mount is cool.

Just wanted to post to say excellent thread. I'm de-ghettoing my fileserver arrangement right now, I just might take some pictures in a day or two of the "hot swap bays" that I have been using for the last couple of years.


----------



## BorisTheSpider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rpbalmer19* 
Better internet signal via bouncing waves back to my wireless adapter.

Nothing like free internet.

I am humbled.

This is the greatest thing I have ever seen. Well, there was this one girl who did this thing with ping-pong balls, but apart from that....


----------



## foothead

I just redid one of my battery packs so it is also 18 cell.



















I also re-capped a Dell monitor I got off craigslist for $15.

Original cap:










New cap:










It lives!


----------



## Liighthead

haha nice work









btw nice set of gpus uve got their


----------



## BlackHoleSon

It lasted about 15 minutes.


----------



## Crabid

For lack of a better cooler, this is what I have on my desk at the moment:



















And if that didn't turn your stomach....

It's tap water!!!


----------



## killakee

And if that didn't turn your stomach....

It's tap water!!!







[/QUOTE]

tap water has been running in my system for a loooooooong time ...
it aint that hard on the system... if you use additives...
but clean tap water aint that bad.. if you have a good source....


----------



## Farih

is this considered ghetto ?

Alot of reggae music used to have come out of the ghetto though


----------



## XXnomadXX

hows this getto set up

View attachment 186394


View attachment 186395


View attachment 186396


View attachment 186397


View attachment 186398


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih;11756635*
> is this considered ghetto ?
> 
> Alot of reggae music used to have come out of the ghetto though


I don't know if I'd consider that ghetto because of how bad ass that looks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XXnomadXX;11758744*
> hows this getto set up
> 
> View attachment 186394
> 
> 
> View attachment 186395
> 
> 
> View attachment 186396
> 
> 
> View attachment 186397
> 
> 
> View attachment 186398


Hahaha, yeah, that's straight up ghetto right there bud.









My ghetto case mod includes me putting a Scythe ULTRA KAZE into the front intake of my M59. My case didn't come with the proper screws to fit a 38mm thick fan in there, but with a little ghetto ingenuity that was no longer a problem







:


----------



## foothead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih;11756635*


Is that grass at the bottom of your case?


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead;11762642*
> Is that grass at the bottom of your case?


Yes. He grows it with his CCFL and LED lights. He's got a flock of miniature cattle that he raises to make mini-burgers.


----------



## Xazen

ghetto?










Modding all my case fans so I can turn the LEDs on and off with a switch in the back.


----------



## Eaglake

This is how looks mine PC
















I like air duct made from tape


----------



## Crabid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;11764593*
> This is how looks mine PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like air duct made from tape


AHHHH, it returns!

I can't get enough of those cotton buds, legendary!


----------



## jak3z

My backup rig was using watercooling, but I sold the kit so I went back to the intel stock heatsink, soon after that my 2x 8800gtx died and decided to change the computer. The intel stock fan is average and it didn't cool very good and I had an old Thermaltake Blue Orb II from my Athlon X2 rig but it was too big to fit in this motherboard, but the 12cm fan is quite good and it has no frames so... after some








The result:


















Now I cool the chipset, the ram, and half the motherboard with a cpu fan. And I get better results than the stock heatsink.


----------



## SHNS0

GRASS????????
I'm choking from laughter
That is like the most epic thing i've EVER seen.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0;11770712*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GRASS????????
> I'm choking from laughter
> That is like the most epic thing i've EVER seen.


its fake grass.. next mod will have something living


----------



## SHNS0

I know it's fake, but still... That's the most awesome pc decoration I've ever seen.


----------



## mlt298

Wanted to build some thing different. Started with an 80 20 extruded aluminum frame, then added 1/4 pleixiglass panels. Custom made water cooling system, I then added the 3 large reservoir inside the case. The system holds about 1.5 gallons of water. I will be adding UV dye and some UV light to the case very soon. There are 4 blue led 120mm fans, all ran by the Zalman fan controller. Water pump is a 3 GPM. So far the fan on the external radiator never kicks on. CPU stays around 42C on a 100% load and water temps never get past 82F.

Product
Motherboard asus p5n t deluxe
CPU Intel Q6600
Frequency: 3374 GHz FSB / QPI: 374.96 MHz Multiplier: 9 x Stepping: G0
VCore: 1.30625 v VTT Voltage: Default PLL Voltage: Default

RAM PQI Turbo Series 1 gig chips
Frequency: 940 MHz Timing: 5-5-5-13 Voltage: 1.80 v
Graphics Card EVGA GTX 470
GPU Frequency: 690 MHz Shader Frequency: 1390 MHz Memory Frequency: 1705 MHz SLI: No
Case Custom Custom built case
Cooling all custom water cooling OCZ 775 waterblock
Fan 4 120mm fans Zalman fan controller
Hard Drive Hitachi 1 TB sata 3
Monitor Sony bravia EX600 40"
Power Supply Coolmax cug 950 watts SLI ready


----------



## dude120

I will shortly upload pics, but I ghetto rigged an SR-2 to a cosmos s.
Then afterwards I purchased a antec CP-1000w which is absolutely too big for the case and ghetto rigged it in side. It actually looks pretty nice, so I don't know if it is technically ghetto rigging, however, both definitely are not made to fit in this case. (pun intended).


----------



## Draygonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;11762715*
> Yes. He grows it with his CCFL and LED lights. He's got a flock of miniature cattle that he raises to make mini-burgers.


So thats where White Castle gets them


----------



## Moparman

Here are a few rigs i threw together for temp rigs.


----------



## Mattb2e

I just read through all 51 pages of this thread, pure epic thread.


----------



## Gerik

i modded my gtx 470 ghetto modded vrm heatsink



















and my other gtx 470 w/ delta


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerik;11778329*
> and my other gtx 470 w/ delta


how thick are those fans


----------



## Live_free

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luvsan;11481185*
> Not to steal your thunda BUT some high end mobos put cmos reset buttons on the back.


My mobo has it on the back.


----------



## SirEsahc

My ghetto sig rig and testing a new camera I got for christmas.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

My rig when I had 2 PSU's










What I did


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerik;11778329*
> i modded my gtx 470 ghetto modded vrm heatsink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and my other gtx 470 w/ delta


LOOOL!!!!
Did that thing take off?


----------



## Gerik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0;11781088*
> LOOOL!!!!
> Did that thing take off?


maybe at full speed but im running them at 1500rpm


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi;11758840*
> My ghetto case mod includes me putting a Scythe ULTRA KAZE into the front intake of my M59. My case didn't come with the proper screws to fit a 38mm thick fan in there, but with a little ghetto ingenuity that was no longer a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


This wasn't cutting it, so I finally had the brain power to figure out that zip ties would work best:


----------



## SpookedJunglist

Oldie but best ghetto ever


----------



## kingofyo1

wow that is pretty ghetto... Although, I could easily see that being turned into a pretty sweet looking setup with some cabling changes


----------



## Silvos00

All things ghetto have "potential"


----------



## thrasherht

I have something that is only slightly ghetto. I got an NZXT Phantom, knowing it was ment to house a 240mm rad and not a 360mm rad. I have some modding to do. So I drilled a few new screw holes and made it fit.
Rad in the top of the case.








Had to drill them under the top panel connectors. They hide the screws.









I wish I were more ghetto. OHHHH WAIT. More pictures.
My ghetto rigged Xbox heatsink. Yes that is a stock AMD heatsink strapped to an Xbox. Keeps the CPU at basicly ambient temps, all the time.
The xbox is modded with a dashboard, harddrive and all that fun jazz.


----------



## vspec

Ram sinks attached to the processor and ram chips in my router, also soldered the wires for the fan to the power connector.









Doesn't help one damn bit either, the router runs cool but it still drops connections like mad.

Well it is a D-link ebr2310, who _doesn't_ have problems with this router?


----------



## Arrowslinger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meticadpa;8478355*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is a raised hole in some cardboard for an optical drive mount, and yes, that is a removable motherboard tray.
> 
> (Sorry for the last pic... I was spasming while talking it. >.<)


OMG if a homeless person needed a PC, could you possibly do a write up added to your mod on how to steal electricity on the street?

Also in behalf of all the Jury Riggers across the nation I would like to present you with our award!


----------



## Stizuner

NZXT Phantom, 200mm door fan does not fit when using an h70, but i needed the extra air intake for video cards so i offset it using lexan.. which i obviously had a hell of a time cutting - used pvc cutting tool lol.


----------



## G33K

Did it a while ago and have since moved and changed it a bit, but here's my old pics and original thread.



















http://www.overclock.net/xbox/813167-homeade-ghetto-intercooler-p.html


----------



## Faster_is_better

Some epic stuff in here


----------



## jnguyn

These are great ahahahaha


----------



## Photograph

Ditched a Floppy connector and made myself a molex extension with a few household items:


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Photograph;11835016*
> Ditched a Floppy connector and made myself a molex extension with a few household items:


You know they have this magical thing called solder.
I love the use of household wiring products though.


----------



## Photograph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11835052*
> You know they have this magical thing called solder.
> I love the use of household wiring products though.


Thanks, that was done years ago before I learned to solder, just found it parting out my brothers old PC.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Photograph;11835197*
> Thanks, that was done years ago before I learned to solder, just found it parting out my brothers old PC.


I see. I remember those days.
I remember doing an entire solder project without flux, I am not really sure how i got the solder to stick to the wire.


----------



## bumsoil




----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumsoil;11835260*


HAHAHA, Absolutely epic.
The avatar just makes the picture that much better at the same time.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11835216*
> I see. I remember those days.
> I remember doing an entire solder project without flux, I am not really sure how i got the solder to stick to the wire.


Real men don't need flux.

Actually, I was first taught to solder without it. I use it now, but all it does is make the job easier.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;11836124*
> Real men don't need flux.
> 
> Actually, I was first taught to solder without it. I use it now, but all it does is make the job easier.


If you are using solder that has a rosin core, then it isn't a big deal. I was using solder core solder, so i was barely able to get the solder to stick.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11836139*
> If you are using solder that has a rosin core, then it isn't a big deal. I was using solder core solder, so i was barely able to get the solder to stick.


Generally, putting your iron on the wire or contact will cause it to be hotter, so when the solder melts it will stick. You just have to be patient: more heat is needed. OTOH, if you are soldering something attached to plastic you are best off with flux and a clip-on heatsink to stop the heat from reaching the plastic.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;11836397*
> Generally, putting your iron on the wire or contact will cause it to be hotter, so when the solder melts it will stick. You just have to be patient: more heat is needed. OTOH, if you are soldering something attached to plastic you are best off with flux and a clip-on heatsink to stop the heat from reaching the plastic.


yes, but i do love me some flux, makes everything easier.
I need to make myself a clip on heatsink.
do they sell them?


----------



## JEFFBEAUCHAMP

I dont know if his qualifys but im only using five of the eight standoffs on my mobo in my sig rig and i didnt use the plastic shield on the cpu cooler backplate.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11836413*
> yes, but i do love me some flux, makes everything easier.
> I need to make myself a clip on heatsink.
> do they sell them?


Yes it does. But we who use flux are not Real Men. But I'd rather use the flux.

My clip-on heatsinks I bought in 1982 when a buddy and I were working on modding our Apple II's to dual boot (that needed separate chips). They are still for sale: here, here, etc.


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;11836614*
> Yes it does. But we who use flux are not Real Men. But I'd rather use the flux.
> 
> My clip-on heatsinks I bought in 1982 when a buddy and I were working on modding our Apple II's to dual boot (that needed separate chips). They are still for sale: here, here, etc.


Your a bit more "seasoned" then I thought


----------



## thrasherht

I would rather use flux then not.
thanks for the link to the heatsink.


----------



## Minigunner

LOL, good stuff up on here! Haha but, you know what they say.. If its stupid and it works, then it isnt stupid.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11836809*
> I would rather use flux then not.
> thanks for the link to the heatsink.


Found another. Radio Shack. Not so esoteric.


----------



## null_x86

Oh yay so Im not the only member of this forum with ghetto setups









Ok, my desktop


















Cable Management mod. Sorry if its a bit blurry. There were more of those vertical holes, but a pair of pliers and some duct tape fixed that. Only reason pliers and duct tape were used, is because I dont have a dremel









And a bit of a joke, the sata cable that runs along the bottom gets squished between that rounded metal piece and the side door. So I'm squishing my bandwidth









And my "high end in 2006" desktop turned workhorse server









































Ok so yes, I have an SSD in my server. Not going to get into that debate here (check the "Post Your Server" thread). The SSD is mounted by two screws on the mesh on the back side of the case.
Then we have the hairband cable management.
Last two pics are my way of stopping a hard drive from vibrating itself to death (it vibrates against the metal every couple of seconds, makes a really irritating sound). I took some scrap cardboard and tore (not cut, but tore) small pieces to shove between the HDD and the bay. One thing that sucks about this case, is the place where the drive is, is one of those easy to remove bays, where you just slide the drive out, instead of screwing it into place. Have to say, its finally quiet though. And the front drive cover has to stay off to keep that one drive cool (damn WD drive >.<).


----------



## quiquirinn

why my last post was deleted??????????????


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quiquirinn*


why my last post was deleted??????????????


I'm not going to tolerate you claiming another's build as your own again. There was also a rather unnecessary comment in your post about it.


----------



## BlankThis

The pursuit Of cooling


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quiquirinn;11881827*
> why my last post was deleted??????????????


haha PWN'D.

Rather MOD'D


----------



## Bennythen00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *null_x86;11877990*
> Oh yay so Im not the only member of this forum with ghetto setups
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


Oh man, love that server!


----------



## null_x86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11881878*
> haha PWN'D.
> 
> Rather MOD'D


Rep'd!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bennythen00b;11882198*
> Oh man, love that server!


Ha thanks man!


----------



## stolid

I wanted to hook my old monitors up to my computer, but all the outputs on my 5770 were taken, and my motherboard only has one PCI-E x16 slot. I didn't want to buy another card, so I ended up going with this solution:

Nvidia 6200 PCI-E x16 -> x1


















Despite all the flexing of the card as I manually sawed it (no dremel tool hehe), the card survived the procedure. By the way, the PCB material is _extremely_ difficult to saw.

Mobo pic - the two upper PCI-E x1 slots were blocked by the RAM, one was under the dual slot of the 5770, and the last one was slightly blocked by some heatsinks. I actually sawed off pins from the card so that I could also overcome the heatsink and cmos battery obstacle as well as make it fit into the x1 slot (as opposed to cutting the slot open).









Success:
















The best part is that if you needed even more, you could pretty easily do this mod multiple times given the plethora of unused x1 slots (assuming they aren't too horribly placed) these days.

More pics: http://www.dropbox.com/home/Public/mods/gfx_6200#/Public/mods/gfx_6200:::


----------



## Silvos00

That is grade A fantastic lol.


----------



## Liighthead

nice work









might do this to my 9400 lol.. if get bored








but if it dies dont have a backup card... ahhh well haha ill find another card xD

btw. how does it effect peformance? wouldnt it lag on that screen or something? lol idk


----------



## Psycho666

Stolid: that's not ghetto! that's awesome!


----------



## blooder11181

that pci-express cut reminds me the 7800gtx cut for pci that whas extreme failure


----------



## stolid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181;11910133*
> that pci-express cut reminds me the 7800gtx cut for pci that whas extreme failure


Ouch. What happened? Did you mean to say plain PCI or PCI-E x1? If PCI, then wow lol.

I'd be afraid to cut anything of significant processing power and value. I wasn't even willing to cut up my 6600 (aside from how it's heatsinks are too big). Also, those better cards would actually miss the bandwidth.


----------



## MCBrown.CA

AMD fan on a Intel CPU heatsink on a 7900GS with missing RAM sinks... What was I thinking?!


















Temps actually dropped by 30%, believe it or not!

Also, obligatory ghetto temp rig shot:


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stolid;11916061*
> Ouch. What happened? Did you mean to say plain PCI or PCI-E x1? If PCI, then wow lol.
> 
> I'd be afraid to cut anything of significant processing power and value. I wasn't even willing to cut up my 6600 (aside from how it's heatsinks are too big). Also, those better cards would actually miss the bandwidth.


the old pci new card to the trash


----------



## blooder11181

before










after


























just to fit the card on my new mini-itx rig


----------



## calavera

I'll show you ghetto. This was back in 2007 trying to get optimum cooling effect for the CPU.
dominos pizza box FTW


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calavera;11938205*
> I'll show you ghetto. This was back in 2007 trying to get optimum cooling effect for the CPU.
> dominos pizza box FTW


that actually looks like it should work really well.


----------



## ehume

Ahhh, corrugated cardboard! The modder's friend.


----------



## calavera

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;11938293*
> that actually looks like it should work really well.


I think it did. Vibrations are somewhat absorbed by the cardboard too.


----------



## gammite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11910070*
> nice work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might do this to my 9400 lol.. if get bored
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but if it dies dont have a backup card... ahhh well haha ill find another card xD
> 
> btw. how does it effect peformance? wouldnt it lag on that screen or something? lol idk


photoshop wont like it. at least cs5.... crash. crash. crash.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Discuss the hardware, not the hand.


----------



## SIMPSONATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;11939797*
> Discuss the hardware, not the hand.


HA! Giggity.

I like the GPU mod. Pretty ghetto bending, haha


----------



## animal0307

The xbox 360 fans do cool. Evga Geforce 210 with passive heat sink. Running the xbox fans on 5v in order to keep them quiet. Takes up 4 slots though. Also overclocked the card to like 140% and it stayed 2-3C above ambient underload with furmark for an hour.


----------



## SHNS0

PC in a shelf, DERP.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp;11939797*
> Discuss the hardware, not the hand.


My apologies. Didn't mean to digress in any way. Couldn't help but to ask, however.


----------



## animal0307

Got another one I remembered.








I knew my erector set wasn't worth selling. And I just got an idea. I might make a torture rack out of it.


----------



## stolid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11910070*
> btw. how does it effect peformance? wouldnt it lag on that screen or something? lol idk


Well, obviously I don't game on that card, but I have the 6200 hooked up to a 24" and a 19" monitor. I play movies on the 24". I played a 1080p H264 one the other day without issues on it. I don't think bandwidth is a problem in this use scenario. x1 is still 250MB/s...


----------



## pjBSOD

Before I replaced it... my old backup computers PSU was being held up by electrical tape.


----------



## xtremerunnerars

I hot glued a 140mm fan into my NZXT Phantom's front area today...looks pretty great


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xtremerunnerars;11946084*
> I hot glued a 140mm fan into my NZXT Phantom's front area today...looks pretty great


Lol, didn't you get screws?


----------



## Dirtyworks

The NZXT Whisper has no real intake for the upper section of the case, so I did this:
The white lining on the fan housing is white hockey tape I lined the edges of the fan, to hopefully improve air moving capabilities (reducing tolerances)..
I can't say how much it does, but it doesn't hurt anything haha








TThe 120mm fan at the bottom of the pic is the original fan I had in that cut out spot and have it soldered into a molex connector.
Now it acts as a 2nd exhaust fan for my PSU, simply because I didn't want to bother taking it out.


----------



## foothead

For some reason, the LGA 775 mobo I bought for my folding rig didn't have any mounting holes for the heatsink, so I drilled some aluminum I had lying around and used it to hold it in place.


----------



## Crabid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks;11948082*
> The NZXT Whisper has no real intake for the upper section of the case, so I did this:
> The white lining on the fan housing is white hockey tape I lined the edges of the fan, to hopefully improve air moving capabilities (reducing tolerances)..
> I can't say how much it does, but it doesn't hurt anything haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TThe 120mm fan at the bottom of the pic is the original fan I had in that cut out spot and have it soldered into a molex connector.
> Now it acts as a 2nd exhaust fan for my PSU, simply because I didn't want to bother taking it out.


OMG, did you use a can opener to do that?! Get a jigsaw man lol


----------



## Dirtyworks

It doesn't matter how pretty it is - I have no desire for vanity, as I don't get off by having a window on my case like you probably do, nor do I care to show anyone the inside. There also isn't a need to grab that area and I know not to touch it. I also tried a jigsaw and a dremel - the dremel kept breaking bits and took too long and the jigsaw was too big. I ended up using wire snips.

I'll be over hear wearing jeans, while you put your tutu on


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crabid;11958616*
> OMG, did you use a can opener to do that?! Get a jigsaw man lol


jigsaw woulda turned it professional.. This is the GHETTO mod thread lol


----------



## quiquirinn

i sleeving with paracord


----------



## quiquirinn

my ghetto sleeving and cardboard psu cover


----------



## Tennobanzai

My old ssd adapter....


----------



## foothead

Got bored so I turned a S478 P4 into a keychain.



















Also,










I'm too cheap to buy a modular PSU for my HTPC, so this is how I manage cables. I'm still amazed that I can get the side panel back on that thing. The opposite side doesn't look bad though:


----------



## Silvos00

I love the electrical tape.


----------



## foothead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Silvos00;11996801*
> I love the electrical tape.


LOL, electrical tape is great. The only real purpose of it is to hold the cables in place until I get the side panel on. If I didn't have it there, all the wires would fall out the side and make it impossible to get back together.


----------



## Silvos00

Thankfully the case I bought has enough room to stuff unused cables...otherwise I'd probably have to cut a portion of it off to stop them from blocking airflow. You could always stuff them in the unused bays.


----------



## StuffStuff1

Wow guys. Like 50% of all this.. "fail" could have bee fixed with a heat shrink and a blow dryer...


----------



## Silvos00

I believe that is why the thread is titled "ghetto".


----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *StuffStuff1*


Wow guys. Like 50% of all this.. "fail" could have bee fixed with a heat shrink and a blow dryer...


Heat shrink and blow dryer? Takes too long. I'm all about zip-ties and velcro.

And bungee cords.

Seriously...unhealthy addiction to making ghetto contraptions with bungee cords. I might need counseling...


----------



## Megabander

I think you guys will get a kick out of this









I decided to hook up my ancient dell tower for folding (which is a ghetto mod in the first place, seeing as how its booting off of an ubuntu cd, is hdd-less, and has a severely chopped case







)

I needed another Cat5 cable run....

This is a 100ft cat5 cable. Yes, it is run like this the entire way through the house


----------



## ehume

Tha's disGUSTin'


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Megabander;12073620*
> I think you guys will get a kick out of this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to hook up my ancient dell tower for folding (which is a ghetto mod in the first place, seeing as how its booting off of an ubuntu cd, is hdd-less, and has a severely chopped case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I needed another Cat5 cable run....
> 
> This is a 100ft cat5 cable. Yes, it is run like this the entire way through the house


its "hang" danger in there?


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dorkseid;12012545*
> Heat shrink and blow dryer? Takes too long. I'm all about zip-ties and velcro.
> 
> And bungee cords.
> 
> Seriously...unhealthy addiction to making ghetto contraptions with bungee cords. I might need counseling...


You might like the project I'm working on then lol

Don't have a case? Suspend it on a wooden frame with cabling.


----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Megabander*


I think you guys will get a kick out of this









I decided to hook up my ancient dell tower for folding (which is a ghetto mod in the first place, seeing as how its booting off of an ubuntu cd, is hdd-less, and has a severely chopped case







)

I needed another Cat5 cable run....

This is a 100ft cat5 cable. Yes, it is run like this the entire way through the house










Wow...talk about ghetto. It may just be the lighting, or perhaps your camera, but those pics make your home look like a drug den or something.


----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*


You might like the project I'm working on then lol

Don't have a case? Suspend it on a wooden frame with cabling.


LOL...take it a step further, and suspend everything in mid-air like a 3D caseless computer. That would take a lot of bungee cords...

Regarding my addiction, I even built a 18"x36" lapdesk with folding legs using scrap lumber, black duct tape...and of course, bungee cords. Perfect for bringing my comp out to the living room and hooking it up to the TV.


----------



## blooder11181

did some one use chewing gum to hold some cable or other stuff


----------



## GlockZoR IV

this is the blue peter of case modding..


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dorkseid*


LOL...take it a step further, and suspend everything in mid-air like a 3D caseless computer. That would take a lot of bungee cords...

Regarding my addiction, I even built a 18"x36" lapdesk with folding legs using scrap lumber, black duct tape...and of course, bungee cords. Perfect for bringing my comp out to the living room and hooking it up to the TV.


http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-computer.html

What was that about no case?

Muahaha, ghetto style! XD Not a single screw except the wooden frame.


----------



## Photograph

I can't believe I didn't post this here earlier:

How to keep a pair of GTX 460's in SLI cool in a MATX mobo:


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Wow...


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Photograph*


I can't believe I didn't post this here earlier:

How to keep a pair of GTX 460's in SLI cool in a MATX mobo:











Wow indeed








a question what where the temps and what are the temps


----------



## Photograph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Eaglake*


Wow indeed








a question what where the temps and what are the temps










It's still too hot to run them like that as I couldn't close the case with the fans in the way, the inside card was hitting 90Â° C running Furmark so the two Nvidia cards went to a full sized ATX machine where they could get proper airflow without resorting to ghetto awesomeness.


----------



## Silvos00

That's a shame


----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *williamdabastrd*


http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...-computer.html

What was that about no case?

Muahaha, ghetto style! XD Not a single screw except the wooden frame.












All hail the Ghetto PC 9000!!


----------



## Cykososhull

So my buddy gave me his pos refurbished xbox after it took a crap on him because I love the extra parts for mods and such. Well here I used the twin delta fans as an extra gpu cooler.







My question to you fellow ghetto modders is can you think of any other way to put this fan to good use? It looks as if it would fit perfectly for a ram cooler, but I cannot think of how I would get it to be secure. Any thoughts?


----------



## williamdabastrd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Photograph*


I can't believe I didn't post this here earlier:

How to keep a pair of GTX 460's in SLI cool in a MATX mobo:











I think you may always want a nearby fire extinguisher handy. lol


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cykososhull*


So my buddy gave me his pos refurbished xbox after it took a crap on him because I love the extra parts for mods and such. Well here I used the twin delta fans as an extra gpu cooler.







My question to you fellow ghetto modders is can you think of any other way to put this fan to good use? It looks as if it would fit perfectly for a ram cooler, but I cannot think of how I would get it to be secure. Any thoughts?


not bad lol..

to secure them i would
1. ziptie them.
2. drill 2 smallish holes so can mount them.
:] temps drop a bit?

EDIT: think i read it wrong? lol to tired xD


----------



## Cykososhull

The top gpu lowered 3-4* under 3dmark11, which to me is a success. Instead of a 10*C difference it was a 7-6*C difference. I haven't found what the CFM or static pressure of these fans are yet, but I will soon enough.


----------



## xd_1771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Photograph;12102306*
> I can't believe I didn't post this here earlier:
> 
> How to keep a pair of GTX 460's in SLI cool in a MATX mobo:


You've really gotta show me all this some day. That was just hilarious.









On the other hand, being rather restricted by short distances between the SATA plugs from the power supply, this is where I decided to throw my SSD...








If you're wondering why there appears to be nothing holding it on... the only thing I could use to hold it on was transparent scotch tape








The only other ghetto thing in my PC is that 80MM fan ziptied in front of the two GPUs... which is no longer there because 1. I needed that 80MM for another PC 2. it made a lot of noise and 3. I no longer run SLI.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd_1771;12119196*
> On the other hand, being rather restricted by short distances between the SATA plugs from the power supply, this is where I decided to throw my SSD...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're wondering why there appears to be nothing holding it on... the only thing I could use to hold it on was transparent scotch tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only other ghetto thing in my PC is that 80MM fan ziptied in front of the two GPUs... which is no longer there because 1. I needed that 80MM for another PC 2. it made a lot of noise and 3. I no longer run SLI.


This is the perfect application for velcro. I use it to hold my SSD in place. Ditto my CCL transformer. Good stuff.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cykososhull;12106398*
> So my buddy gave me his pos refurbished xbox after it took a crap on him because I love the extra parts for mods and such. Well here I used the twin delta fans as an extra gpu cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My question to you fellow ghetto modders is can you think of any other way to put this fan to good use? It looks as if it would fit perfectly for a ram cooler, but I cannot think of how I would get it to be secure. Any thoughts?


http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general-discussion/666445-post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans-56.html#post11940201
Also have thought about ram cooling. Just gotta find a way to hang/mount it.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Gotta love ghetto rigging
It does not have a power or reset switch, but rather an always handy screwdriver


----------



## Viridian1

had to make some sort of way for my rear fan to blow air out and not get blocked by my curtains. this is how it came out.


----------



## fabrizziop

VRM heatsink installation on 945GC-M7 MB + E2180 CPU. Running [email protected] 24/7.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fabrizziop;12168552*
> VRM heatsink installation on 945GC-M7 MB + E2180 CPU. Running [email protected] 24/7.


Sexy. is it overclocked?


----------



## fabrizziop

Well, kinda. I've only got it to 2.2 GHZ, runs totally fine and stable. If I raise FSB by 1, it doesn't posts, and tells me overclock watchdog determined system unstable.

I've tried to overvolt NB, but raising 0.1-0.2V on NB doesnt do anything. RAM isn't issue, as it's rated for 800 MHZ and it does 667(333).

I think I'm motherboard limited. Anyway, for it being gifted because it was bad(mobo, CPU and RAM), I can't complain







. I tested it first time and it didn't post. I reseated CPU and it did!.

BTW the heatsink is the same one of those "Xcel2000" PC-Chips mobos that you find here in my country everywhere. I just chopped it. The VRM has TIM on the middle(a bit), and loctite super glue on sides. It's very glued.


----------



## Silvos00

I totally thought you has the case upside down...mounted on the wall. Until I saw the keyboard.


----------



## Archer S




----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Viridian1;12156522*
> had to make some sort of way for my rear fan to blow air out and not get blocked by my curtains. this is how it came out.


Nice...I guess the string is for adjusting air pressure in the case?


----------



## Gyn3c0l0g15t

Last night i put wheels on my computer, only thing was that they were wheels from a broken lunch table at my school.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gyn3c0l0g15t;12187229*
> Last night i put wheels on my computer, only thing was that they were wheels from a broken lunch table at my school.


Pics or it didn't happen.









In all seriousness, that's freaking bad-ass, and I'd really love to see picks of that.


----------



## gildadan

I have two entries in the ghetto rigging thread.

First up is a pair of gts250 graphics cards. the two are different as they are two different versions of a ghetto mod I made. The one with the insulation on it works the best by far. Twice the cooling paths. Took them out of my rig when the condensation fried the video side of one of my boards. I say it was a successful mod and would do it again I think as well on another card. For less than $20 it worked amazingly well. Worst part was getting the copper and aluminum to solder together.









This second entry is my current main rig. Right now am running a phase cooled chiller system. Hard to see the garden hose tubing for part of it and the prestone antifreeze. About the only part that is for the computer is the block itself. Pump is overkill but was free. Well so was most of it tbh.


----------



## thrasherht

Ready for ghetto rigged exhaust hole?

I had to cut it so i could install the second rad on my h50 mod.








Dual rad, dual pump H50 mod.


----------



## foothead

Just a test fitting, so most of the wires aren't there.


----------



## fr0st.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *foothead*











Just a test fitting, so most of the wires aren't there.


lol, of course your ghetto-book is ghetto









It's pretty amazing however, how's it coming along?


----------



## Skiivari

duude i thought those were dynamite


----------



## kill

My ghetto setup









Horrible Cable management









PSU TAPED to case cuz it dont fit









Reason PSU dont fit









360 fans where PSU goes


----------



## thrasherht

wow, taping a PSU on. That is ghetto.


----------



## kill

Its actually a good thing the PSU dont fit... i put the 360 fan as my exaust fan and my temps idle @ 19-22c


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kill;12199085*
> Its actually a good thing the PSU dont fit... i put the 360 fan as my exaust fan and my temps idle @ 19-22c


because idle temps are really what matter when you are using a computer.

sorry if that sounds mean, but too many people throw around idle temps like they matter. They dont matter.

If your idle temps are 40c and you load temps are 40c? what does that say?


----------



## kill

lol thats a good point ill run prime 95 for 20 min then tell u what load is









EDIT: I did 10 minutes(6 tests) and the temp stopped rising after test #3. Load is 31c


----------



## philhalo66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kill;12199008*
> My ghetto setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Horrible Cable management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PSU TAPED to case cuz it dont fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reason PSU dont fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 360 fans where PSU goes


gross lol, those fans in the PSU Bay are not going to a bit of good you should cut a hole in the side panel and drill holes then mount the fans in the side panel pulling hot air away from your 9600


----------



## kill

DDDD never thought of that...


----------



## KJ4MRC

Plywood pc


----------



## philhalo66

lol note the NB fan is from a broken PlayStation 2 and is wired up to spliced USB cable for Power


----------



## Photograph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd_1771;12119196*
> You've really gotta show me all this some day. That was just hilarious.


I actually came up with a ghetto solution to the overheating issues the first ghetto pic was attempting to solve.

I built a mega-franken-heatsink for my GTX 460 as no one seems to make an aftermarket air cooler that would fit in my case. It's made from an old Athlon 64 cooler with a pile of other heatsinks stuck on with ceramic thermal adhesive.

Ghetto bolt on attachment:




































I even heatsinked the vrm's on the back of the board:



















And here it is installed, as you can see it's a very tight fit in my case so I need a lot of cooling that doesn't use much space:




























As ugly as it is, it's still 10-15° cooler than stock at load. Ghetto win!


----------



## Dorkseid

Sorry Photograph...that setup is WAY too sophisticated to be ghetto. LOL









Looks like it's more Mission Impossible than MacGyver, all neat and tidy. Much neater than the time I tried to attach a 1kg CPU heatsink to my 6600GT...


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Photograph;12238284*
> Ghetto bolt on attachment:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I even heatsinked the vrm's on the back of the board:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here it is installed, as you can see it's a very tight fit in my case so I need a lot of cooling that doesn't use much space:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As ugly as it is, it's still 10-15° cooler than stock at load. Ghetto win!


After looking at your pics a bit more closely, I'm guessing that you made that heatsink more due to the fact that any other one would get in the way of some of your cables connected to your motherboard. Otherwise, I simply can't see how a regular heatsink couldn't fit in there.

Still, that's an amazing ghetto mod. Gives me the idea that we should have some kind of "ghetto rigging" Hall of Fame thread or something, because this is simply awesome.


----------



## Photograph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dorkseid*


Sorry Photograph...that setup is WAY too sophisticated to be ghetto. LOL









Looks like it's more Mission Impossible than MacGyver, all neat and tidy. Much neater than the time I tried to attach a 1kg CPU heatsink to my 6600GT...


Haha thanks Dorkseid









Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi*


After looking at your pics a bit more closely, I'm guessing that you made that heatsink more due to the fact that any other one would get in the way of some of your cables connected to your motherboard. Otherwise, I simply can't see how a regular heatsink couldn't fit in there.


Very true, my case has VERY little room in it for anything let alone stock solutions.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi*


Still, that's an amazing ghetto mod. Gives me the idea that we should have some kind of "ghetto rigging" Hall of Fame thread or something, because this is simply awesome.


That's a pretty good idea, now who do we contact to make it happen?


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Photograph*


That's a pretty good idea, now who do we contact to make it happen?


Oh heck, I would say the OP, and have him edit his post with a HOF or something, but I doubt he's even subscribed to this thread now. Plus, at the very least, someone would have to look through every single page and see what mods would be the best.

Too much work, IMO...well, for me anyway.


----------



## Neokolzia

I'm curious if he saw positive results from orig heat sink o_o

At least for case heat dissipation..

Can't remember but I don't think I ever posted my Ghetto Bench rig... had it running for about 8 months while I refused to touch my case until 3 days before I had to move =P... procrastination ftw!

But just a note... there are soo many more fans then you can see... lol...

1 fan under motherboard, 1 fan behind first 5870, 1 fan admist the wires on the right playing gorilla.. couple fans on the HDD that is off the screen. And a RAM cooler on the first 5870.


----------



## SteveClay

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0V2a-Y9UVuQ&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]]


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Neokolzia*


I'm curious if he saw positive results from orig heat sink o_o

At least for case heat dissipation..

Can't remember but I don't think I ever posted my Ghetto Bench rig... had it running for about 8 months while I refused to touch my case until 3 days before I had to move =P... procrastination ftw!

But just a note... there are soo many more fans then you can see... lol...

1 fan under motherboard, 1 fan behind first 5870, 1 fan admist the wires on the right playing gorilla.. couple fans on the HDD that is off the screen. And a RAM cooler on the first 5870.


Be honest, do all those fans really made a difference in temperatures or you did it just cause it looks cool as hell.
I'm guessing latter


----------



## null_x86

Quote:



Originally Posted by *foothead*











Just a test fitting, so most of the wires aren't there.


are those... rechargeable AA batteries?


----------



## Canadarocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *null_x86*


are those... rechargeable AA batteries?


No they are dynamite! Everybody RUN!


----------



## ILOVEPOTtery

Here's a basic template. Units are mm, but don't worry about following them to a T.

Fold along the dotted lines, using a nice 90 degree edge as a guide. Bend the top dotted line so that the 65mm edges sit flat.

Use some duct tape loops to keep the cardboard in place. A few loops on the bottom of the drive to keep it snug on the tower. Paint it up with a sharpie or spray paint.

Tools Required:

Pencil
Ruler
Protractor
Scissors
Beer?
DISCLAIMER: Don't use beer and scissors together.


----------



## matroska

here's my crazy idea of the day









http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ezer-64-a.html


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *matroska*


here's my crazy idea of the day









http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ezer-64-a.html


Nice.


----------



## yang88she

Looks nice and clean right?










Well before I received my stands, this is my great ghetto engineering in order to get 3x30" Dell 3007 wfp-hc's to get into Portrait mode =P

The back, card board, more card board, a metal clamp, plus...you guessed it! more card board


















Nothing like a black towel, some more card board, and w00t w00t, more card board to keep things nice and even


----------



## Neokolzia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yang88she;12697796*
> Looks nice and clean right?
> 
> Well before I received my stands, this is my great ghetto engineering in order to get 3x30" Dell 3007 wfp-hc's to get into Portrait mode =P
> 
> The back, card board, more card board, a metal clamp, plus...you guessed it! more card board
> 
> Nothing like a black towel, some more card board, and w00t w00t, more card board to keep things nice and even


Thats pretty epic =), I got similar overhang on some of my monitors due to a cramped desk but dang =), Gonna have to be careful making sure not to bump the monitors


----------



## blooder11181

WARNING
don´t clean your sweat THERE
RISK OF HAZARDOUS ELECTRICAL SHOCK


----------



## jprovido

the fan broke on the zalman cooler on my 8800gtx so.


















temps down by 8 degrees


----------



## yang88she

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neokolzia;12697851*
> Thats pretty epic =), I got similar overhang on some of my monitors due to a cramped desk but dang =), Gonna have to be careful making sure not to bump the monitors


it's actually pretty stable...due to the weight and the way I had everything setup

thank goodness another 3x30 user found some pretty affordable stands that work w/ our setups from mono price =D


----------



## samus1677

"Ode to duct tape"
goin for high postive pressure


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samus1677;12715482*
> "Ode to duct tape"
> goin for high postive pressure


Great start. You might consider putting a 140mm fan in the four unused slots of your 5.25 bay. Here's an example of a three-slot placement of a 120mm fan:










The 140mm fan just needs another vertical slot to fit.


----------



## samus1677

ooh i like that foam installation.

Here is the other fans i have to work with:
I think I might replace my front intake with the Thermaltake and put the other three 80 mm in the drive bays like you mentioned!


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samus1677;12716065*
> ooh i like that foam installation.
> 
> Here is the other fans i have to work with:
> I think I might replace my front intake with the Thermaltake and put the other three 80 mm in the drive bays like you mentioned!


What the heck is that Tt fan?


----------



## samus1677

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;12716292*
> What the heck is that Tt fan?


unscrewed it from my old TT v1. Its a very nice fan, moves a lot of air and comes with a controller knob


----------



## frankth3frizz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteveClay;12266490*


velcroing stuff on ur rig is so sketchy. i had a delta velcroed under my dvd drive and apparently it came undone and the delta hit a metal piece and there was 2 fins missing. lol. luckily my dad was home and he turn it off right away, he said he thought it was gonna blow up. haha


----------



## samus1677

MOd, please delete this since i lost the pics


----------



## Eaglake

I like it! It's different than other cases







and that makes it special


----------



## ehume

I can see you have already removed your rear grill. You no longer need an exhaust fan. Replace those two 80's with your 120mm rear fan and you'll really have something.

Duck tape = the best


----------



## samus1677

Moderator, please delete this post if you can. I no longer have the pictures of my old duct taped case


----------



## imh073p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samus1677;12726693*
> Did some serious Duct Tape work on it:


Almost spit out my drink when i saw this one. Duct Tape=Win!


----------



## ehume

@samus1677 - Brilliant. Just brilliant.


----------



## pLuhhmm




----------



## JFuss

A friend of mine was having some trouble with his CPU temps so he zip tied an extra fan on









I found it quite amusing.


----------



## Liighthead

heh nice


----------



## Tw34k

Water cooled a mosfet by placing the heatsink in a tray of ice water to prevent it from catching fire from the amount of current I was trying to put through it. The ice had melted by the time I shot a photo.










And a ghetto attempt at tec cooling. The peltier eventually quit working.


----------



## JFuss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tw34k*


Water cooled a mosfet by placing the heatsink in a tray of ice water to prevent it from catching fire from the amount of current I was trying to put through it. The ice had melted by the time I shot a photo.











Excuse my ignorance, but that thing in the back of the picture looks like a really complicated Microwave


----------



## Tw34k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JFuss*


Excuse my ignorance, but that thing in the back of the picture looks like a really complicated Microwave










Close









Its called an oscilloscope, its a tool that plots an electrical voltage over a specified time letting you visually see and measure the behavior of one or more circuits.

(one of my favorite tools)









The rather large blue things next to it are some high volume 450V capacitors. The overheated transistor was part of a circuit to charge the capacitor banks.


----------



## Liighthead

:O! 450v nice. 

what was it used for


----------



## Eaglake

Yesterday finally came my SB mobo.
As for now I don't have any case I'm set up like this








hahaha using that rubber thingy from noctua cooler to support vga


----------



## sockpirate

Was running like this after i sold my HAF X , until my torture rack came in .

Back in 2005 when i thought an HP computer was leet skillz status!
Freshmen year in college ....our house looked like we lived like meth heads!!!!





This is WoW addiction at its finest!!


----------



## Tw34k

Aside from all the trash on the floor that web of wire would drive me insane!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12863090*
> :O! 450v nice.
> 
> what was it used for


Firing a projectile with magnetism aka, a coil gun.

The bank of 18 smaller black capacitors is almost equal to one of the larger ones.


----------



## Liighthead

^ ah fair enough haha

just doing this bout a hour ago lol









roll of solder to hold down my scyth 3k rpm fan


----------



## Tw34k

lol, motherboard boxes should come with these instructions.

1. Open box, remove product.
2. Place box on floor or other flat surface.
3. Place motherboard on top of box followed by rest of components.
4. Boot pc and load ocn.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;12863155*
> 
> Back in 2005 when i thought an HP computer was leet skillz status!
> Freshmen year in college ....our house looked like we lived like meth heads!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is WoW addiction at its finest!!


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tw34k;12865913*
> lol, motherboard boxes should come with these instructions.
> 
> 1. Open box, remove product.
> 2. Place box on floor or other flat surface.
> 3. Place motherboard on top of box followed by rest of components.
> 4. Boot pc and load ocn.


hahaha hell yeh









gonna build a tech bench for it 2morro or next day


----------



## mr soft

The corks are back, this time in the HTPC 360 elite





































Another spray painted DVD drive as well.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tw34k;12865913*
> lol, motherboard boxes should come with these instructions.
> 
> 1. Open box, remove product.
> 2. Place box on floor or other flat surface.
> 3. Place motherboard on top of box followed by rest of components.
> 4. Boot pc and load ocn.


If I had my own place I would mount my pc to the wall


----------



## G33K

Never mind lol


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tw34k*


Water cooled a mosfet by placing the heatsink in a tray of ice water to prevent it from catching fire from the amount of current I was trying to put through it. The ice had melted by the time I shot a photo.











I see you have the see-through breadboard, does it light up with leds?
What is the capacity of those big blue ones, a couple of farads?

A wooden surface with interesting burn marks, me likes.


----------



## null_x86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tw34k;12862833*
> Water cooled a mosfet by placing the heatsink in a tray of ice water to prevent it from catching fire from the amount of current I was trying to put through it. The ice had melted by the time I shot a photo.


Ok, I'll bite. How much current?


----------



## Tw34k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurkingdevil;12892544*
> I see you have the see-through breadboard, does it light up with leds?
> What is the capacity of those big blue ones, a couple of farads?
> 
> A wooden surface with interesting burn marks, me likes.


Yeah, two of my breadboards are clear, they dont light up though. I was ordering an avr chip bootloader programmer from a website and they were on sale so I had to grab a couple. The caps are less than a 1/4 farad each and the table has seen some harsh days through the years. As you can see a friend of mine named Tom decided it would be funny if he used one of my soldering irons to burn his name as well as some other patterns into its surface along with some burns on the edge from when I used to smoke cigarettes.

You can see a bit more of how many years this table has been abused here









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *null_x86;12898660*
> Ok, I'll bite. How much current?


If you look close on the breadboard you will see a black square of pins I colored in with a marker, they are where the mosfet was before I put it in water. It got hot enough that the plastic from the breadboard was melting.

As far as direct amount of current, Im honestly not sure. The transistor was pulsing the unregulated 12V line from my benchtop psu into a transformer wired backwards, giving me a simple/ghetto capacitor charging circuit for a coil gun project I was playing with.


----------



## jach11

My ghetto rigged 3 way push pull fan setup on my Hyper 212+. That fan is a temporary fan. I hope to get another Scythe 3000 for the other side and the current side. It will soon be 4 way Scythe 3000 in push pull config on a hyper 212+. Who really needs a Scythe Mugen 2?
EDIT: Im currently running P95 and load is 30C


----------



## ph10m

Cut my rig into 10 pieces to prepare for modding but I have no time to fix it at this time with exams coming up, so the result was taking one of my paper storage boxes for old letters... everything is mounted with screws, apart from the psu, and yes, it's the rig in the sig.


----------



## Darkknight512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tw34k;12898853*
> Yeah, two of my breadboards are clear, they dont light up though. I was ordering an avr chip bootloader programmer from a website and they were on sale so I had to grab a couple.


Looks like Adafruit stuff, jumper set and clear breadboards all look familiar.


----------



## Tw34k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkknight512;12906412*
> Looks like Adafruit stuff, jumper set and clear breadboards all look familiar.


Yep those are the ones







I was buying my USBtinyISP AVR Programmer Kit and saw the clear breadboards and could not resist, they look so cool


----------



## kromar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jach11;12906060*
> My ghetto rigged 3 way push pull fan setup on my Hyper 212+. That fan is a temporary fan. I hope to get another Scythe 3000 for the other side and the current side. It will soon be 4 way Scythe 3000 in push pull config on a hyper 212+. Who really needs a Scythe Mugen 2?
> EDIT: Im currently running P95 and load is 30C


dont you think it would be more efficient to close the sides instead of adding extra fans to it which cause a lot of turbulence?


----------



## xd_1771

I wonder if there's a way to create a form of tower cooling that actually hangs down from the GPU.... just a thought.... I do have a few spare tower heatsinks I could use including even my Xigmatek Dark Knight. I think all it'd need is some sort of custom mounting solution. Have one of those blowing to some rear air-slotted PCI slots and it'd be epic win; all that'd be left to do is to figure out a way to do this without risking a GPU drooping too much or risking snapping.


----------



## G33K

Get a case that has an upside-down mobo tray? That, or I saw some thing that can be expanded far enough to add some suppport from the bottom of your case up to the card and hold it in if you're using a really heavy aftermarket cooler, but I forgot what it was called









That would be awesome, though


----------



## lurkingdevil

You would definitely need some form of support if you are planning on putting on a heavy cooler. I imagine the best way would be to get one of these








and lay the card flat with the weight distributed on its entire surface, instead of just the pci-e connector on the side.


----------



## Eaglake

Not sure if this counts







,but I yesterday found a Intel Pentium III from I believe PC from dad's job. 
So he doesn't need it and I thought what could I do with it...I saw those socket pins at the back and said "it could be a good hair comb"








So now an old Intel Pentium III is a new modern hair comb








(this in not mine actual)


----------



## r34p3rex

My new rig:


----------



## pale

My girlfriends old external hard drive she wanted backing up. Gave it the old S&M action along the way...


----------



## Baneat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;12962697*
> Not sure if this counts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,but I yesterday found a Intel Pentium III from I believe PC from dad's job.
> So he doesn't need it and I thought what could I do with it...I saw those socket pins at the back and said "it could be a good hair comb"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now an old Intel Pentium III is a new modern hair comb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this in not mine actual)


Thumbs up, I've done the same thing with a fried pentium 4


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;12962697*
> Not sure if this counts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,but I yesterday found a Intel Pentium III from I believe PC from dad's job.
> So he doesn't need it and I thought what could I do with it...I saw those socket pins at the back and said "it could be a good hair comb"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now an old Intel Pentium III is a new modern hair comb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this in not mine actual)


no its more mouse trap








or deadly nail trap for the feet


----------



## Shredicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Photograph;12238284*
> I actually came up with a ghetto solution to the overheating issues the first ghetto pic was attempting to solve.
> 
> I built a mega-franken-heatsink for my GTX 460 as no one seems to make an aftermarket air cooler that would fit in my case. It's made from an old Athlon 64 cooler with a pile of other heatsinks stuck on with ceramic thermal adhesive.
> 
> Ghetto bolt on attachment:
> -snip-
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As ugly as it is, it's still 10-15° cooler than stock at load. Ghetto win!


All I can think about when I see this is Xzibit shouting "YO DAWG WE HEARD YOU LIKE TO COOL WHILE YOU COOL SO WE STRAPPED A HEATSINK ON YOUR HEATSINK ON YOUR HEATSINK ON YOUR...."


----------



## robertwhamm

While this is only ghetto bc it's a moc up I made of the real system to test fit parts before I commit to buying them but none the less I think it's pretty ghetto









Enjoy, watercooled nes goodness.


















Link to my build thread








http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/977745-robertwhamms-project-watercooled-nes.html


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robertwhamm;13011092*
> While this is only ghetto bc it's a moc up I made of the real system to test fit parts before I commit to buying them but none the less I think it's pretty ghetto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy, watercooled nes goodness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to my build thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/case-mod-work-logs/977745-robertwhamms-project-watercooled-nes.html


----------



## wickedwahine

NZXT Alpha Case did not have enough room for side panel fan after installing the CPU cooler/Tuniq Tower 120... but I could not part from my Bluegears b-cool fan lol, so I mounted it on the outside







. Kind of ghetto, but the only way I could think of doing it, don't have the tools to cut another hole in the plexi.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Bal3Wolf

My 5970 water block has poor cooling for the gpu2 vrms so im doing a dual fan mod blowing air on the area of the vrms and it shaves a good 10-15c off their temps at 920/1250 they dont pass 75c even in furmark and never seem to hit over 90c even at 950/1250.


----------



## Dirtyworks

This was getting too hot, after changing HSF's, and thus overall case airflow.









So I made this to channel air to it.
I adapted ehume's zip-tie screw to mount the fan onto the cardboard.









With a windowless case, no one will ever know.

It dropped my NB temps 10c and that little 80mm fan, though it spins at 1700RPM, is surprisingly quiet


----------



## andrewmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jach11;12906060*
> My ghetto rigged 3 way push pull fan setup on my Hyper 212+. That fan is a temporary fan. I hope to get another Scythe 3000 for the other side and the current side. It will soon be 4 way Scythe 3000 in push pull config on a hyper 212+. Who really needs a Scythe Mugen 2?
> EDIT: Im currently running P95 and load is 30C


Woah!
I have same mobo, same problem with hyper 212+ facing vertically








I just haven't made a ghetto solution yet


----------



## andrewmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xraven771;10209195*
> this thread is ghetto but have you ever seen a laptop with no screen inside of a old pc case ......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Insides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> works good just installing windows xp on it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> has no HDD so installing to a 4gb USBflashdrive
> 0_0


Thats pretty awesome
If you've gotten bored with that, you can try hanging it up on a wall








this is my first attempt, I'm still working on making it look nice










also couldn't help but notice, alarm clock says 4:20


----------



## Dirtyworks

Was it really necessary to use a 1,944×2,592 1.1MB image for that?


----------



## andrewmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks;13044154*
> Was it really necessary to use a 1,944×2,592 1.1MB image for that?


no, i just accidentally forgot to click resize when i uploaded it from my phone
:/


----------



## Dirtyworks

I'm just pulling your leg


----------



## philhalo66

i modded a PS2 fan to fit on my NB and i put a 92MM fan on my 8800 to drop the PCB temps, and spliced a new end on my old CRT monitor. and spliced the NB fan into my rear 120MM fan.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

i modded my old gamecube adapter to power all but 2 of my case fans. and used bread tags to hold on my top 140MM fan


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Liighthead

oh wow... that doesnt look safe!


----------



## Paratrooper1n0

Duct tape sleeves for the freaking win!


----------



## pjBSOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pLuhhmm;12845603*


That is literally the funniest thing I have ever seen.


----------



## Bal3Wolf

nice mods


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paratrooper1n0;13068065*
> Duct tape sleeves for the freaking win!


Ghetto sleeving. Its just awesome








I would have done the same thing if I hadn't buyed mdpc sleeves


----------



## Paratrooper1n0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;13070150*
> Ghetto sleeving. Its just awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have done the same thing if I hadn't buyed mdpc sleeves


The difference between officially made sleeves and duct tape sleeves are simple... price.


----------



## ViSioNx

hahaha i have black tape sleeving in my pc lol. also cut up a 5.25 drive bay cover to fit my 3.5 bay card reader lolol (pics soon)


----------



## weeandykidd

When you see it...
[Hint: my desk is a bit short]


----------



## xd_1771

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrewmd;13043409*


You're holding it to the wall with thumbtacks?
 







Genius


----------



## Enfluenza

heres mine.
i know the space is messy, so ignore that.








































this is what i use to turn it on. i ripped this thingy out of an old Systemax Tiger case
























modified winXP FTW

i the mobo is semi bricked...i have to clear the CMOS every time i shut it down (only way for it to shut down properly is hard shut down or by the PSU) in order for it to turn on again.
i also dont have a keyboard for it, but keyboards are soooo mainstream









its got a A64 (socket 754







) 3400+ at stock speeds (2.4Ghz), 512MB RAM, and a X1600PRO. full specs are in my sig.
i cant OC it cuz of the CMOS issue. kinda hard to OC in BIOS if i have to clr the CMOS every time i shut it down :/


----------



## Enfluenza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeandykidd;13074085*
> -snip-
> When you see it...
> [Hint: my desk is a bit short]


i dont see it...
btw WELCOME TO OCN! 1st post lol


----------



## Doom

Nothing better than turning up to a LAN party with a "duct taped wonder" and smoking the shiny bling crowd.

Ghetto FTW.


----------



## Flynny

This is truly a shenanigan










My H70 is blocking that fan mount inside the case, but my poor VRMs are burning up with no airflow under the H70. So, of course, I used double sided tape to attach an extra fan on top. In case you're wondering, the side panel does go back on with that wire. It already bulged a little bit in that area because of the H70.

Now let's just hope my cats don't get curious around my computer...


----------



## Bal3Wolf

Heres my hardrive mod got 2 on 1 side of my 240 rad and 1 on other side so they arent blocking any of my airflow and it allowed me to even install another fan in the front.


----------



## weeandykidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enfluenza;13075948*
> i dont see it...
> btw WELCOME TO OCN! 1st post lol


Sorry the picture doesn't illustrate it too well, but my desk is raised by some old VHS tapes








And thanks for the welcome







.


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeandykidd;13080296*
> Sorry the picture doesn't illustrate it too well, but my desk is raised by some old VHS tapes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks for the welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You can't be serious...
I can almost hear those tapes screaming for mercy lol


----------



## weeandykidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurkingdevil;13094478*
> You can't be serious...
> I can almost hear those tapes screaming for mercy lol


100% serious








My monitors don't fit on my desk, so I tried evening out the height difference as my desk is in-between two drawers. I ordered some desk mounts though, so this time tomorow, I should no longer be ghetto







.


----------



## Silvos00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flynny;13077838*
> This is truly a shenanigan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My H70 is blocking that fan mount inside the case, but my poor VRMs are burning up with no airflow under the H70. So, of course, I used double sided tape to attach an extra fan on top. In case you're wondering, the side panel does go back on with that wire. It already bulged a little bit in that area because of the H70.
> 
> Now let's just hope my cats don't get curious around my computer...


I tried doing something like that with my H50 rad on the top instead on my M59, but it didn't quite work.


----------



## Paratrooper1n0

My friends USB drive clip broke so I used duct tape to secure it to his broken strap.


----------



## G33K

Oh yeah? My USB drive's case broke so I held it together with scotch tape


----------



## CrimsonMango

because of my water cooling setup in Project Three Mile Island E1.0, I don't have room for a 5.25" drive anywhere inside the case. So this is how I get down with a Windows 7 install:


----------



## animal0307

Sorry for the terrible cell pics. This is the condition of my rig until I can a save up for a Lian Li A05.

Yes that is a NES case and the case buttons and light are attached to my board. Its part of a project that has been in the workings for 2years.









Ghetto hard drive cage for my laptop drives.


----------



## philhalo66

ahaha i did this to my 8800 because it was hitting almost 90C


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
and because my case has crap airflow


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Cacophony

this thread makes me want to donate money to some of you.


----------



## Tw34k

When can I expect payment?


----------



## Omega329

This was my PC up until 2 months ago...
As you can see this thing is like an oven, I had checkers on the button of the sides, and a piece of plastic on the side with the fan. The power cord was broken (along with the jack) when a neighbors dog ripped it up. As you can see I am playing D2 in the picture lol.


----------



## CHez

I give thee... Rumble Mouse!!




http://www.overclock.net/mice/1019604-diy-rumble-mouse.html


----------



## Smoblikat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW;8434985*
> Well I could not find a thread dedicated to only posting what you have ghetto rigged, so I thought I would make my own. Post any ghetto cabling, ghetto fan mods, ghetto electrical tape jobs, ghetto holes and lights. ANYTHING GHETTO!!!
> 
> I will start this off. I wanted to really declutter my cathode wires so what I did was I just straight up cut off the male molex (since CCFL kits always have a male and female molex) and then i wrapped it all in electrical tape (I will sleeve it later, don't feel like it now.
> 
> So here is the end result:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, now that is ghetto ^^^^^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post em up!!


Wait a sec, i have that EXACT kit (except mines blue) are you saying i can run them at 12v instead of 5v and not damage them?

Can you make a tutorial?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoblikat;13602943*
> Wait a sec, i have that EXACT kit (except mines blue) are you saying i can run them at 12v instead of 5v and not damage them?
> 
> Can you make a tutorial?


Aren't CCFL's supposed to run at 12V?


----------



## CHez

IIRC, 12v goes into the box on the wire, gets converted to much higher frequency to run the CCFL. Similar to a Florescent tube with a ballast

Dont think it will work with less than 12v


----------



## Smoblikat

So then what was done in these pictures?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoblikat;13609726*
> So then what was done in these pictures?


It looks like he just cleaned up the power cable, spliced in his own molex and taped it.

lol I like how they just lay across the rest of the components caseless


----------



## Flying Toilet

I need a new case :-\ The fans do help bring temps down quite a bit though. Next step, ghetto ventilation either through the top or out the side wall...


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan;8522177*


i do that too XD works perfect


----------



## eskamobob1

here is my getto mod







... i used it to hit 4.2GHz with my h70 with stock fans


----------



## CalypsoRaz

This old computer of mine (three pcs ago) got hotter than hell with a video card in it, so I got a hole-saw and added a 120mm fan


----------



## Iceman23

A plastic pin broke on the old CPU cooler I had, taped it to the case in order maintain pressure


----------



## mogg

looking through these pictures, really, some of you should sign them, and then sell them as art


----------



## stratmaster458

My new server until I finish my custom acrylic case for it. Running Ubuntu Server 11.04 no gui all command line baby lol


----------



## CrimsonMango

Intel D5400XS Skulltrail Ghetto Diagnostics Setup:


----------



## ehume

Does this count as a "ghetto" rig? Or just a homebuilt testbed?


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philhalo66;13593922*
> ahaha i did this to my 8800 because it was hitting almost 90C
> **snip...
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> and because my case has crap airflow
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


good lord...


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;13671493*
> Does this count as a "ghetto" rig? Or just a homebuilt testbed?


That is awesome, looks really nice


----------



## xd_1771

For a temporary benchmarking rig I had to ghetto-mount my PSU in the 5.25" bays.
Pics soon


----------



## Sin Cities Sin

My case does not support a dual 120mm rad with push pull capabilities but a drill a file and the outside of my case containing now many jagged edges around the top is completely water cooler


----------



## ehume

I don't have room at the front of my 5.25 bay for this:










I only have two slots free. But one of the slots is inhabited by an IO unit that only goes back about a third the length of the DVD drive. So I mounted it in the back:










You can see the foam I used to seal it up around the edges. Now, in place:










Close up:


----------



## digitally

hmm whats with the foam??


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitally;13721413*
> hmm whats with the foam??


Holds the fan in place and almost completely negates vibrations.


----------



## MrDucktape

Rename this Threat as "And they said I was crazy... MUAHAHAHAHAHHAHAH


----------



## phurtive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;13718614*
> You can see the foam I used to seal it up around the edges. Now, in place:


The foam was a good idea. I wish I thought of that when I ghetto-rigged this 120mm to the drive bays of my old P4 system.


----------



## Zackcy

Very shiny for a P4 system.


----------



## Sircles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrimsonMango;13671409*
> Intel D5400XS Skulltrail Ghetto Diagnostics Setup:


lemme know if you ever think about selling your skulltrail







always wanted one!


----------



## digitally

hmm if only i had some foam...


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phurtive;13722154*
> The foam was a good idea. I wish I thought of that when I ghetto-rigged this 120mm to the drive bays of my old P4 system.


For you, Velcro might be a better idea. You can get matching squares. Just put two together and cut them diagonally. That will leave you with four corner-shaped double sticky pieces. Slap those on the fan, and the fan on the case - much less vibration.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitally;13723202*
> hmm if only i had some foam...


I have a roll of square profile foam that is used to insulate windows. Bought it at Home Depot. That's what I have along the top of my fan.

The other pieces came from an old electronics packing. If I were looking for more, I'd look at a hobby shop or a UPS store.


----------



## Badwrench

Does this count? And before anyone asks, it's wire, not string.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench;13730870*
> Does this count? And before anyone asks, it's wire, not string.


I've done that and liked the results. For sure you needed to do that or something like it with that heatsink!


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

Sadly I don't have Pictures, but I've done some Really BA Ghetto mods - Took two Twist-ties, and mounted a 120MM Fan to the HD Cage, and sleeved cables w/ electrical tape.


----------



## foothead

Macro lens...



















500mm lens taped to a lens shade, taped to a backwards 135mm lens.

Results are interesting...


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead;13745338*
> Macro lens...
> 
> 500mm lens taped to a lens shade, taped to a backwards 135mm lens.
> 
> Results are interesting...


Holy wow that is close batman. I know what it is too. A resistor.

430Ω +-5%


----------



## munaim1

*1st GTX 460 with Swiftech MCW60*




Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

*2nd GTX 460 with Swiftech Apogee GT Cpu Block*



















*1st card Swiftech MCW60 idles - 27/26c

2nd card Apogee GT idles - 22/23c*

Here are my temps with OCCT for a couple mins.










9c difference between the two blocks
















Not much of ghetto rigging, but I thought I'd share this here. More details can be found in the links on my sig.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Well that beats my ghetto cooling



































At least I dropped 3c


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee;13752061*
> Well that beats my ghetto cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least I dropped 3c


Thats pretty nice








maybe take off shroud...temps should drop more!
atleast that worked for my 9800gx2, I put a fan under it with q tips


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead;13745338*
> Macro lens...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]


That is just awesome. what kind of uses do have for that set up?


----------



## ph10m

For some reason I didn't think about posting it here earlier, but it's from my.. what you could call bed theatre pc(?!).. I basically came home from a party one night at about 2 am, I didn't find myself tired, and I found my old computer from about 2006 or so laying around in a closet.. So there I was, sitting on the floor, slightly drunk and drawing up cutouts and holes for the case, how the idea popped in my head I have no idea of.























































I ended up removing it eventually, since it was an actual usable computer, so I gave it to my sister in the previously used case.


----------



## krajee

My headlamp broke (.99c from meritline, lasted 8 months?) so I needed some sort of illumination without turning on the lights. Breadboard. 9V Battery and clip. 3x LEDs. I found a couple of super bright blues after...quite a bit brighter than these greens.


----------



## Hackcremo

Guys, come have a look..


----------



## Nvidia-Brownies

this is my Current PC - Upgrading Motherboard, Case, And most likely a New Graphics card. As you see, I Actually used like two twist ties to hold a fan on, LOL - I had to actually use a Zip tie for the Drive bays for a 120MM Fan too.. xD


----------



## foothead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307;13760458*
> That is just awesome. what kind of uses do have for that set up?


Not much use really. I just started taking pictures of random stuff to see how it'd look. My favorites so far are a needle, a guitar string, and a meteorite match.

I wasn't really happy with it though, because it turned out to be too close, had no focus control, and there were horrid chromatic aberrations, so I improvised some macro bellows out of cardstock, a coathanger, a cardboard box, and lots of tape.










Here are some test shots taken with a 50mm Vivitar lens, all at f/8.


----------



## TwistedMind

Shenanigan bracket to make gcard sturdy. Folded edge of metal with a vice-n-hammer, banged out, primered w/ clear coat.

The pic is so high res, the gap looks huge but isn't, it is actually touching and holding.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwistedMind;13942177*
> Shenanigan bracket . . .


Where are you from? Can't find a published definition for Shenanigan bracket. If you're from the US, you should submit it to the Dictionary of American Regional English as a new regional term . . . unless you just invented it yourself.


----------



## TwistedMind

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;13945318*
> Where are you from? Can't find a published definition for Shenanigan bracket. If you're from the US, you should submit it to the Dictionary of American Regional English as a new regional term . . . unless you just invented it yourself.


Have I missed something here?

Post your "ghetto rigging" shenanigans.


----------



## ehume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwistedMind;13945558*
> Have I missed something here?
> 
> Post your "ghetto rigging" shenanigans.


It's a great term. If he made it up, well and good. If people use the phrase, it belongs in DARE.


----------



## Ducky

Once upon a time I cared not for personal safety in the pursuit of performance


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ducky;14228449*
> Snip
> 
> Once upon a time I cared not for personal safety in the pursuit of performance


Ha, I had a very similar setup when I was overclocking my old Geil DDR3 with a USB fan.


















Also, this is my power button on my test PC.


----------



## Liighthead

ahahaha nice!


----------



## Volvo

A case fan attached to a case with sticky tack.


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volvo;14244353*
> A case fan attached to a case with sticky tack.


LOL!!! and also super hairy reminds me of my computer before a bi-weekly blow out.


----------



## Volvo

This fan has been in 17 hour/day operation since Aug '09.

It's probably much, much furrier than this now... :3


----------



## Chiefpuff420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volvo;14244473*
> This fan has been in 17 hour/day operation since Aug '09.
> 
> It's probably much, much furrier than this now... :3


hahaahahha yeah no lie huh'. crazy stuff man. we need to pitch in at the forum and buy you a big ass air compressor that sites next to it and blows away all that muff fur.


----------



## G33K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ducky;14228449*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once upon a time I cared not for personal safety in the pursuit of performance










made me lol irl


----------



## Smoblikat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G33K;14347217*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> made me lol irl


Ive done some pretty dumb things in my day (including playing with explosives) and never would i do that.


----------



## vspec

My ghetto test bench (work in progress)
















I still need to mount it on something and make a psu and hdd/disc drive holder.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ducky;14228449*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once upon a time I cared not for personal safety in the pursuit of performance


for free hair cut


----------



## Paratrooper1n0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181;14633564*
> for free hair cut


Replace the plastic blades with Silver Daggers.


----------



## japan1

Ghetto PSU lighting:










Ghetto overclocking:


----------



## SkyeHack

Zip ties.... :'(


----------



## PCSarge

did someone say ghetto? i already have one in here somewhere, now to post another 2

my monitors power brick fried, so i got me a 12v universal adapter and a tip that fit it, the problem was, the adapter would overheat. and thus shut off

thus i drilled holes on the front in a circular pattern, and 3 holes in the top to let hot air out, then ran speaker wire spliced to my fan controller out to power the fan, and electrical taped it on, the end result is monitor never shuts off and power adapter stays cold, here are some cheesy phone pics 4 u

and i guess ill add my home made ram cooler to the ghetto list, complete with 2 way tape and fan controller wire splicing, say hello to my mini 1U server nidec minis.

pics 1+2 are the adapter, 3-5 are the ram cooling fans

disclaimer: do not drill into adapters unless you know what your doing, i am not liable for your stupidity


----------



## [ShowMe!]

I think I qualify for this thread...

Here is my ghetto rigged gaming rig... for some 3D and 5.1 Surround Goodness..









Enjoy!


































System Specs
GPU: Asus GTX590
CPU: Sandy i5 2500K
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage 8GB
MOBO: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
PSU: Antec High Current Pro 1200W
SSD: Intel 80GB
HDD: WD 1TB
WALL MOUNT: MYOPENPC BENCH Wide Wall

Accessories:
LCD: Asus VG236H 23" 2ms 1920x1080 120Hz 3D
Glasses: nVidia 3d Vision Kit
Keyboard: Rosewill RK-800G Black Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Razer Orochi
Cans: Psyko Carbon 5.1


----------



## OrangeBunnies

I only have one question... how many times has your dog licked/chewed on it.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeBunnies;14695471*
> I only have one question... how many times has your dog licked/chewed on it.


Never...

He just likes the warm stream of air from my GTX 590









My room is at a constant 73 Deg F...


----------



## TheRockMonsi

What in the...LOL.









Dude, that's great stuff right there!!!!!!! I hope your dog never gets the idea of licking your hardware.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi;14695495*
> What in the...LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, that's great stuff right there!!!!!!! I hope your dog never gets the idea of licking your hardware.


I dont have this problem... Hes an old sleepy dog, that does nothing.


----------



## Eaglake

That's pure avesomnes


----------



## ehume

Dawg as computer accessory. +rep.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!];14696399*
> I dont have this problem... Hes an old sleepy dog, that does nothing.


Coolness.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehume;14702442*
> Dawg as computer accessory. +rep.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

My Wall Mounted PC








Just wanted to add that to the post, for people that are searching, cuz I was before I got this mount...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!];14695398*
> I think I qualify for this thread...
> 
> Here is my ghetto rigged gaming rig... for some 3D and 5.1 Surround Goodness..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System Specs
> GPU: Asus GTX590
> CPU: Sandy i5 2500K
> RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage 8GB
> MOBO: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
> PSU: Antec High Current Pro 1200W
> SSD: Intel 80GB
> HDD: WD 1TB
> WALL MOUNT: MYOPENPC BENCH Wide Wall
> 
> Accessories:
> LCD: Asus VG236H 23" 2ms 1920x1080 120Hz 3D
> Glasses: nVidia 3d Vision Kit
> Keyboard: Rosewill RK-800G Black Gaming Keyboard
> Mouse: Razer Orochi
> Cans: Psyko Carbon 5.1


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!];14696399*
> I dont have this problem... Hes an old sleepy dog, that does nothing.


Hey, that's interesting I was looking at that mount the other day. I have the MyOpenPC standard open-air case (it's been great) and noticed that they make a wall mount/VESA mount that can hide behind the monitor.

How you like it? Any negatives or anything you can share?


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61;14730411*
> Hey, that's interesting I was looking at that mount the other day. I have the MyOpenPC standard open-air case (it's been great) and noticed that they make a wall mount/VESA mount that can hide behind the monitor.
> 
> How you like it? Any negatives or anything you can share?


If you have specific questions just ask...

It shipped fast from Amazon.

I put it together in about 30 Min, hole position precision is good, comes with all the hardware to mount, mobo, psu, and video card support. Has ok instructions...

The mount on the right has slots for 1 CD Drive, 1 3.5 HD, and 2 2.5 HD's...

I use it as a wall mount, but it has all the VESA holes..

I like it so far, it keeps my system near silent with stock i5 2500k cooler and gtx 590. My PSU does not make any noise at all.


----------



## Spicy61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!];14730906*
> If you have specific questions just ask...
> 
> It shipped fast from Amazon.
> 
> I put it together in about 30 Min, hole position precision is good, comes with all the hardware to mount, mobo, psu, and video card support. Has ok instructions...
> 
> The mount on the right has slots for 1 CD Drive, 1 3.5 HD, and 2 2.5 HD's...
> 
> I use it as a wall mount, but it has all the VESA holes..
> 
> I like it so far, it keeps my system near silent with stock i5 2500k cooler and gtx 590. My PSU does not make any noise at all.


Yup, my setup is dead quiet too lol. One of the great things about an open case is that heat is not an issue and so RPMs get cranked down, either automatically or through SmartFan control in the bios. Thanks for sharing the info on your case, I repped you for your time. Cheers sir







.


----------



## Rixon

Now that I own a Obsidian 650D I don't need to do any ghetto rigging shenanigans


----------



## lurkingdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61;14730411*
> Hey, that's interesting I was looking at that mount the other day. I have the MyOpenPC standard open-air case (it's been great) and noticed that they make a wall mount/VESA mount that can hide behind the monitor.
> 
> How you like it? Any negatives or anything you can share?


I was also thinking of something like that but I doubt the monitor(and its stand) can take on the weight of the psu and a decent size heatsink.


----------



## crashdummy35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!];14695398*
> I think I qualify for this thread...
> 
> Here is my ghetto rigged gaming rig... for some 3D and 5.1 Surround Goodness..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!


Wall-mounted rig with a detachable sleeping dog ... wow. I cannot even imagine what could possibly beat this.

A video of that in action should net a bazillion hits on YouTube.


----------



## lurkingdevil

I forgot to mention, this image










is full of high quality win.

And yes, a video of this setup would probably net you a bazillion hits on youtube.


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurkingdevil;14751790*
> I forgot to mention, this image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is full of high quality win.
> 
> And yes, a video of this setup would probably net you a bazillion hits on youtube.


As requested, heres the video!

I am sorry about the sound, the software I used did not let me to config the mic correctly, it came our bad, this is also being recorded with a webcam, sorry about the overall quality, but you can see it run...

Cheers...













http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyYVdQgWr3Q[/ame[/URL]]

I am working on better sound, and video quality...

I will try to post a better one with clear sound, so you can hear my system run...


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!];14755115*
> 
> As requested, heres the video!
> 
> I am sorry about the sound, the software I used did not let me to config the mic correctly, it came our bad, this is also being recorded with a webcam, sorry about the overall quality, but you can see it run...
> 
> Cheers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am working on better sound, and video quality...
> 
> I will try to post a better one with clear sound, so you can hear my system run...


I liked and favorited because of it's awesomeness.


----------



## c00lkatz

Anyone else thinking that dog is about to get pwned... lol


----------



## muffe

I got the Gigabyte GA-Z68MX-UD2H-B3 micro ATX motherboard only to find out that to crossfire/sli you need to put the cards in the top most and bottom most pcie slots. Well the board has 4 slots and fits in 4 slot computer cases but the video cards these days are almost all double slot. IE you need a 5 expansion slot minimum case to run this board with two video cards.

Battleplan:
1) Raise up the motherboard higher in the case
2) Cut another expansion slot in the case above the original 4.
3) Extend the I/O shield cutout in the case.

Marked up

















Nip the tip

















Final product

















Not using standoffs so zip tie motherboard to tray









I put a piece of cardboard between the mb and mb-tray









Function over fashion. It works! I could zip tie better so mb is straight and level, but for now is sufficient.


----------



## Hawk777th

Sorry I dont have a pic, but I used to have a Dell office machine that had the flat case so you could set a monitor on top. I added a Geforce back in the day and the case wouldnt shut anymore so it always sat half propped open on the GPU lol! I also had to take a hacksaw to the back to make the dual slot card fit.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muffe;14758984*
> Not using standoffs so zip tie motherboard to tray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a piece of cardboard between the mb and mb-tray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Function over fashion. It works! I could zip tie better so mb is straight and level, but for now is sufficient.


Man, IMO that's ghetto DANGEROUS!!!!!!









Glad to see everything is all good though.


----------



## crashdummy35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast;14755457*
> I liked and favorited because of it's awesomeness.


Me too. That mount takes ghetto to a whole other level. Kinda taking ghetto mainstream. I like that idea though.


----------



## Edge Of Pain

The only reason I don't have a pic of mine is because I nearly set fire to my case fans









I was limited on 4 pin molexes and was attaching a retro PATA hard drive to my PC which required 4 pin molex (I use old hard drives for backing up my data). The case fans also required 4 pin molex, except for one of them which could be powered either by plugging it into the motherboard or by 4 pin molex. So I plugged that into my motherboard, saving 1 molex.

But due to cable lengths I had to plug my back fan straight into another fan. the plastic part came off so I had to plug each wire in directly. I plugged the earth into live and live into earth. Turned my PC on.

*smoke* /FFFFFFUUUUU.jpg, my wires half melted. Now however, all my hard drives and fans are working at the same time fine.

TL;DR
Don't plug black into yellow and yellow into black.


----------



## t3haxle

LOL, just read the first 30 or so pages and then clicked forward and saw wall mount one. Oh god this thread gives me ideas, don't do this to me OCN!


----------



## Scorpion49

I just did some ghetto rigging yesterday. I got my 800D but I wanted to put fans on top for now since I still have to order my water cooling parts. I got some el-cheapo kingston fans from frys, only problem is they have 3 pin AND molex connectors and are super ugly. Solution? Mount fan controller from NZXT phantom on the back side of the case to hide the wires









Ugly fans:









So lets use this:









Where should it go?









I win!









After that I just tied up the wires neatly. It works great. I used some stand offs that went to something in the past and the spacing was almost perfect for the screw holes.


----------



## DJEndet

If this counts as ghetto rigging then here we go:









Decided to get rid of my old fugly case and just make it open-air in a shelf style.







Much better than earlier.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

I drilled around 40~50ish holes in the bottom of my case to mount a 120mm Fan there, Until I could get a dremmel to cut a hole out there.


----------



## linkin93

Before:









After:


















PD: Chair is not bad for $70 AU, all leather and comfortable


----------



## gbatemper

Haha, some of these are really interesting.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linkin93;14827603*
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PD: Chair is not bad for $70 AU, all leather and comfortable


That was totally ghetto before, but I like how it ended.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Here's my little brother's computer that my parents wasted $150 a couple months ago.(though it came with a decent monitor, which I stole) It came with a 1.8ghz p4, 500mb of ram, gfx card that was worse than the onboard







I put my old 2.8 P4, 2gb of ram and GeForce FX5200 in it.
The FX5200 fan was broken, and I don't have any extra fans, so I took the fan out of an old psu and taped the wires in and just leaned it on it like this









This is the computer(as you can see the top of the case obviously wont fit on it anymore)


----------



## ehume

Pretty finger guards.


----------



## GTR Mclaren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!];14695398*
> I think I qualify for this thread...
> 
> Here is my ghetto rigged gaming rig... for some 3D and 5.1 Surround Goodness..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System Specs
> GPU: Asus GTX590
> CPU: Sandy i5 2500K
> RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage 8GB
> MOBO: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
> PSU: Antec High Current Pro 1200W
> SSD: Intel 80GB
> HDD: WD 1TB
> WALL MOUNT: MYOPENPC BENCH Wide Wall
> 
> Accessories:
> LCD: Asus VG236H 23" 2ms 1920x1080 120Hz 3D
> Glasses: nVidia 3d Vision Kit
> Keyboard: Rosewill RK-800G Black Gaming Keyboard
> Mouse: Razer Orochi
> Cans: Psyko Carbon 5.1


dude...










xD


----------



## cravinmild

How are those psyko audio cans, ive got the original pair, terrible bass but i can hear clips being loaded on the floor above me. U take 3d pics too or that a game on the screen. Nice getto rig.

Ive only got one getto mod to show, used zipstraps to mount a cpu waterblock to my gpu. Did some sleeving but nothing like you guys...props

_IGP9522 by cravinmild, on Flickr

_IGP9527 by cravinmild, on Flickr

about it for me. Tried to extend the wires on a uv cold cathod...didnt work out so well


----------



## Tator Tot

Ghetto Desktop deployed.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild;14836512*
> Ive only got one getto mod to show, used zipstraps to mount a cpu waterblock to my gpu. Did some sleeving but nothing like you guys...props
> 
> _IGP9522 by cravinmild, on Flickr
> 
> _IGP9527 by cravinmild, on Flickr
> 
> about it for me. Tried to extend the wires on a uv cold cathod...didnt work out so well


Nice man, that looks pretty darn bad-ass IMO!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tator Tot;14836761*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto Desktop deployed.


Nice battle station.


----------



## Whole Wheat

My toothpick anti-kink!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whole Wheat;14841828*
> My toothpick anti-kink!


hahaha, that thing is all kinds of ghetto. creative solution though


----------



## Emrets61

I liked this topic. crashdummy35 is suggested to me.









I attached fan with paperclip. North bridge's degree is fell down from 49 to 40. Here is mine







:


----------



## crashdummy35

Man I love OCN...


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emrets61;14933946*
> I liked this topic. crashdummy35 is suggested to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attached fan with paperclip. North bridge's degree is fell down from 49 to 40. Here is mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Haha!!!! That's ghetto right there!!!! Nice work.


----------



## samus1677




----------



## cavallino

I don't have photos but I have some pretty ghetto mods. The rear grille is cut out and one of the kaze fans is attached outside on the back with the wire running through a pci slot. There is a fan zip tied in the front 5.25 bay and the door won't shut all the way because the fan shroud I made hits the gpu cables.

Cooling > aesthetics


----------



## lieschen-mueller

My cable sleeving in Favela-Style ^^


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Dang, those are some serious ghetto mods guys, nice work!!!


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samus1677;14947839*


Looks like your case has been raped









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cavallino;14947901*
> I don't have photos but I have some pretty ghetto mods. The rear grille is cut out and one of the kaze fans is attached outside on the back with the wire running through a pci slot. There is a fan zip tied in the front 5.25 bay and the door won't shut all the way because the fan shroud I made hits the gpu cables.
> 
> Cooling > aesthetics


Please, make pictures because this thread is useless without them


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake;14948251*
> *Looks like your case has been raped*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please, make pictures because this thread is useless without them


Well, that's one way of putting it...


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

I used "Velcro Brand Industrial Strength Velcro Tape" to mount my 23.6" Asus monitor on the wall, and I only used two strips to do this...

Pics Below: (Sorry for the poor quality as I'm using phone camera)


----------



## Faster_is_better

lol awesome, velcro is pretty tough stuff.


----------



## Irocing

Hi,

+1 for,
Velcro

Later


----------



## ieatchairs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou;14953569*
> I used "Velcro Brand Industrial Strength Velcro Tape" to mount my 23.6" Asus monitor on the wall, and I only used two strips to do this...


Is it bad that I want to do this now too? :S


----------



## Irocing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ieatchairs;15052968*
> Is it bad that I want to do this now too? :S


Hi,

All's Well

If you put put your SSD on the wall put a picture over it.

Later


----------



## andrews2547

I done some ghetto mods today







I should have taken pictures







but anyway what I did was take a fan out of a old PSU and now I am using is as a case fan







it doesn't really make much of a difference though lol


----------



## iCrap

Is your monitor seriously held in place with velcro?!!!!
Also i like that SSD velcro idea, im going to do that now.


----------



## iCrap

Here is my ghetto rigging, (that i have a picture of, there is lots more) its a fan held on with a rubber band, "cooling" the ram. Didnt help worth a damn.


----------



## Irocing

Hi,

My bottom 240 Rad is also secured with Velcro so I can easily remove it
when doing maintanence

Who needs drills-screws-nuts n bolts

Later


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irocing;15054704*
> Hi,
> 
> My bottom 240 Rad is also secured with Velcro so I can easily remove it
> when doing maintanence
> 
> Who needs drills-screws-nuts n bolts
> 
> Later


awesome


----------



## blooder11181

resurrected ibm netvista
the stock psu is dead so i add a oem atx 350watts and duck tape
pentium 4 1.5ghz and 1.5gb pc133 xfx geforce 6200 256mb agp


----------



## darkstar585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181;15058817*
> resurrected ibm netvista
> the stock psu is dead so i add a oem atx 350watts and duck tape
> pentium 4 1.5ghz and 1.5gb pc133 xfx geforce 6200 256mb agp


that looks soooo dangerous........i LOVE it!


----------



## ieatchairs

Not quite as ghetto as some other things I've seen here, but here is a picture of my case fan being held up twist tie style... that also means the side of my case can't fit back on. But hey, my temps magically went from the 60's to the low/mid 40's, so I'm happy! I'm actually running at 37 right now







(Also, the setup has somewhat changed now. I needed the twist tie for cable management so I'm using the power connector for a cold cathode to hold it up now haha)


----------



## frankth3frizz

twisties ftw.


----------



## Monkmachine

My old spare PC in a motherboard box, Rooms a mess too! (photo's are few years old)


----------



## badatgames18

tried to hammer the block to get stripped screws out, ended up cracking it, now it works perfect


----------



## Irocing

Hi,

I vote the above #1.

Good job









Later


----------



## roskof

Does this count?









Ghetto HTPC!


----------



## iCrap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roskof*


Does this count?








Ghetto HTPC!


That is awesome.


----------



## ieatchairs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *roskof*


Does this count?








Ghetto HTPC!


ahahahahahahahahahah









That's pretty ironic considering how clean your other computer is (I saw it in the "rate my cables" thread)


----------



## Irocing

Ah Ha,

A keyboard controlled fan controller whatchcallit.








Patent time.

Later


----------



## roskof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ieatchairs;15064835*
> ahahahahahahahahahah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty ironic considering how clean your other computer is (I saw it in the "rate my cables" thread)


Haha! Well the back of my computer looks messier than this!

Instead of buying a dvd player for my son's learning DVDs. I duct taped the broken laptop on the back of the TV instead. That way we won't have to bother changing the DVD's, just play and set to "repeat all"!


----------



## eskamobob1

Lol... That is amazing


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roskof;15064650*
> Does this count?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto HTPC!


Why do you have a KB hooked up like that? All you need for an HTPC is a mouse


----------



## MGF Derp

There is my current "case"


----------



## foothead

I wanted to shoot my DSLR left-handed.




































































































Success!


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchLinuxFTW;15066831*
> Why do you have a KB hooked up like that? All you need for an HTPC is a mouse


It seems that's a laptop ducktaped to tv screen and maybe he cant take off the keyboard.


----------



## roskof

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArchLinuxFTW*


Why do you have a KB hooked up like that? All you need for an HTPC is a mouse










I was going to take it off but the power cord is messed up and it's making me press F1 to continue the boot process every time I power it on lol.


----------



## foothead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArchLinuxFTW*


Why do you have a KB hooked up like that? All you need for an HTPC is a mouse










 You're kidding right? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...EAR-_-23176018 This thing is worth its weight in gold. I have two of them, and they made the HTPCs useful for more than just media center and netflix (and they made those easier too.)


----------



## darkstar585

Quote:



Originally Posted by *foothead*


I wanted to shoot my DSLR left-handed.


Being a fellow left hander I can say that mod is AWESOME







I am now looking at doing the same thing to my DSLR


----------



## foothead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darkstar585*


Being a fellow left hander I can say that mod is AWESOME







I am now looking at doing the same thing to my DSLR


Haha, thanks. In case you cannot tell, it's made of bondo, attached to a cardstock frame (to make it easier to form). It's held in place by the tripod key on the bottom, and by a wire tightened around the left strap mount. I also included a dedicated focus button on the back that I can push with my thumb.

Here are the things I can think of that need improvement: The mounting system- specifically the wire at the top, it doesn't feel like it'll last very long, ergonomics - Definitely put some rubber sheet on yours, longievity (?) - I don't really know how long the bondo will last. Use something stronger if you have access to it. Other than that, it works quite well. I'm just using mine as a sort of proof of concept. If I like it, I'll probably build a new one using everything I learned from this experiment. If not, then I'll probably end up using it right handed with a higher ISO.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *foothead*


I wanted to shoot my DSLR left-handed.
[snip]
Success!


Okay, so let me get this straight, you made a way for you to take shots with that camera using your left hand? I'm still looking at the pics and trying to figure out what's going on, lol.


----------



## darkstar585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead;15073994*
> Haha, thanks. In case you cannot tell, it's made of bondo, attached to a cardstock frame (to make it easier to form). It's held in place by the tripod key on the bottom, and by a wire tightened around the left strap mount. I also included a dedicated focus button on the back that I can push with my thumb.
> 
> Here are the things I can think of that need improvement: The mounting system- specifically the wire at the top, it doesn't feel like it'll last very long, ergonomics - Definitely put some rubber sheet on yours, longievity (?) - I don't really know how long the bondo will last. Use something stronger if you have access to it. Other than that, it works quite well. I'm just using mine as a sort of proof of concept. If I like it, I'll probably build a new one using everything I learned from this experiment. If not, then I'll probably end up using it right handed with a higher ISO.


thanks for the info:thumb:....I totally forgot about needing to swap the focus button as well! Might experiment with my Konica Minolta 7d as its getting on a bit now and If it fails its a good excuse for an upgrade.

might have a play with fibreglass paste( we call it kitty hair in the workshop as its like bondo with fiberglass in it) to see if it would be a stronger material.

I am already dreaming of shooting with 2 DSLR's at the same time without the need of tripods


----------



## foothead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi;15074423*
> Okay, so let me get this straight, you made a way for you to take shots with that camera using your left hand? I'm still looking at the pics and trying to figure out what's going on, lol.


Yep. I can take pictures with my left hand. My right arm was broken at the shoulder a couple years ago, so it shakes badly with tele lenses.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkstar585;15074472*
> thanks for the info:thumb:....I totally forgot about needing to swap the focus button as well! Might experiment with my Konica Minolta 7d as its getting on a bit now and If it fails its a good excuse for an upgrade.
> 
> might have a play with fibreglass paste( we call it kitty hair in the workshop as its like bondo with fiberglass in it) to see if it would be a stronger material.
> 
> I am already dreaming of shooting with 2 DSLR's at the same time without the need of tripods


"swap the focus button" - I hope you mean adding a second focus button, lol. I just used a $3.95 electronic shutter release from ebay and replaced the button with some tact switches I pulled from an old VCR. It's great because the camera itself required no modification. I could take this off and it'd be just like new.

I also had the idea of double-fisting cameras. I usually have a medium format camera for landscape shots, and a DSLR for tele when I'm hiking, so this is perfect. I have yet to try it out in the field though.

Please PM me to let me know how the fiberglass works out if you go that route. I was thinking either that or epoxy for v2.0.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead;15074769*
> Yep. I can take pictures with my left hand. My right arm was broken at the shoulder a couple years ago, so it shakes badly with tele lenses.


Ouch!!!! Sorry to hear that. Glad to see you're able to work around it though.


----------



## ChocoSnake

lawl, many years ago.


----------



## BeardedJesus

Supergluing an extra fan to you cpu cooler....WIN!!









Ghetto on/off switch for my fans lol


----------



## darkstar585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead;15074769*
> Yep. I can take pictures with my left hand. My right arm was broken at the shoulder a couple years ago, so it shakes badly with tele lenses.
> 
> "swap the focus button" - I hope you mean adding a second focus button, lol. I just used a $3.95 electronic shutter release from ebay and replaced the button with some tact switches I pulled from an old VCR. It's great because the camera itself required no modification. I could take this off and it'd be just like new.
> 
> I also had the idea of double-fisting cameras. I usually have a medium format camera for landscape shots, and a DSLR for tele when I'm hiking, so this is perfect. I have yet to try it out in the field though.
> 
> Please PM me to let me know how the fiberglass works out if you go that route. I was thinking either that or epoxy for v2.0.


I meant add the focus button:doh: I will definitely PM once I start the build


----------



## Paratrooper1n0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roskof;15064650*
> Does this count?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto HTPC!


lol @ Dell lappy.


----------



## rubicsphere

So I'm waiting to break my loop down, switch tubing, and change the retention bracket on my CPU block until BD releases. But I couldn't be without a desktop while the BF3 beta was going on so I just sat my PC on it's side and stuck the 1155 block to my X2 560. Temps are actually good even at 4.4Ghz.


----------



## Psycho666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere;15089145*
> -snip-


is that block just lying there?!


----------



## rubicsphere

haha no it's stuck on there with some thermal paste, but other than that there's nothing holding it down except good ol' gravity.


----------



## iCrap

Ghetto shelf computer


----------



## boateye

That must be a plastic shelf, or you would have shorted out your mobo by now!


----------



## foothead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boateye;15097167*
> That must be a plastic shelf, or you would have shorted out your mobo by now!


Paint usually isn't conductive...


----------



## Track

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boateye;15097167*
> That must be a plastic shelf, or you would have shorted out your mobo by now!


I guess I missed the physics class where they taught us that wood is electrically conductive.


----------



## TwiggLe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackHoleSon;8471815*
> http://thereifixedit.com/
> 
> /thread?


LMAO...










I actually did this to my entertainment system...

My TV fit in it but it was a little snug so it would hit the buttons on the side of the TV and scroll through the menu's constantly...


----------



## iCrap

Not sure what the shelf is made of, probably particle board crap but its not plastic. And yea paint isnt normally conductive.


----------



## boateye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead;15098009*
> Paint usually isn't conductive...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Track;15098036*
> I guess I missed the physics class where they taught us that wood is electrically conductive.


I haven't taken physics yet so i was just working off of what i knew then


----------



## foothead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boateye*


I haven't taken physics yet so i was just working off of what i knew then










 They taught us about this is like fourth grade. Pretty sure I had it figured out before then though, lol.


----------



## boateye

Only nerds would remember stuff like that


----------



## andrews2547

Stolen From failblog.org









Stops people using my WiFi


----------



## D-EJ915

I have to say in my early days I lived by the ghetto, ghetto mod juice flowed through my veins.

Now I have ridiculous computers but still can channel the ghetto. My current ghetto mods...

SR-2 rig with external easy-access fan controller for the lazy.









Server with Xonar DX powered fan shroud









My previous rig and server with an external USB drive put inside for hard drive cage cooling.









Behind the board soldering and ATX hotwire power button on a Blade 2500 board.









Vans box converted to laptop cooler and hard drive cage cooler keeping the USBs cool. The top USB is the same I put inside my old rig and that was the cage inside it too.









Sent a server with the off, diagnostic and on power lock in off position but no key? no problem.









No extra SGI hard drive caddies? no problem once again









I hope many of you take inspiration from these great mods. Unfortunately I did not have a camera prior to this point so my ultimate open-case 400Mhz P2 cannot be experienced by you guys.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D-EJ915;15107542*
> I have to say in my early days I lived by the ghetto, ghetto mod juice flowed through my veins.
> 
> Now I have ridiculous computers but still can channel the ghetto. My current ghetto mods...
> Behind the board soldering and ATX hotwire power button on a Blade 2500 board.


I see you have finally found a use for the GameCube.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547;15110183*
> I see you have finally found a use for the GameCube.


Whoa man, gamecube was awesome.


----------



## otaku_ex

Giga**** E-350 with Delta 70mm fan.


----------



## darkstar585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;15111910*
> Whoa man, gamecube was awesome.


it was for like the 9 games that came out for it......


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;15111910*
> Whoa man, gamecube was awesome.


lolololol I was just trolling







gamecube is pretty good just not as many games as PS2 or original Xbox


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otaku_ex;15111954*
> Giga**** E-350 with Delta 70mm fan.


Is that thing strapped to a passive heatsink? That's keeping it ghetto right there.


----------



## Paratrooper1n0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkstar585;15111965*
> it was for like the *90* games that came out for it......


Fixed


----------



## D-EJ915

I gotta be honest, I love the gamecube and my gameboy adapter


----------



## OPENbracket




----------



## MGF Derp

So more Ghettoness I have/had going on

A i5 750 cooler core with a 80mm Rosewill fan cooling my E6700
















The temps werent terrible with that setup.

My current Ghetto cooling


----------



## Djmatrix32

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Cacophony*


this thread makes me want to donate money to some of you.


I 100% agree


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cacophony;13593944*
> this thread makes me want to donate money to some of you.


My address is:
321 Fake Road
Fake Neighbourhood
Fake Town
Fake Country
FA53 3KE
UK


----------



## mad87645

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547;15146201*
> My address is:
> 321 Fake Road
> Fake Neighbourhood
> Fake Town
> Fake Country
> FA53 3KE
> UK


ill send some your way, youll want the currency in fakes right?


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mad87645;15146239*
> ill send some your way, youll want the currency in fakes right?


Yup







lol


----------



## foothead

Weathersealed ZD 14-42.









Now I just need to find some sort of O-ring that I can mount on the camera.


----------



## one-shot

Here is my most recent Shenanigan from this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/overclock-net-boinc-team/1132189-crunching-time-hint-3-gpus.html#post15167279

It even has zip ties!!


----------



## iCrap

Lol GHETTO. I like it.


----------



## andrews2547

Are old CPU fans are useless?

No they are not.

Here is my old CPU fan with a broken blade.










Step 1:

Find some broken speaker cable, any length will do.










Step 2:

Strip a bit of the casing off so you can use it with the fan.










Step 3:

Do the same with the fan.

Step 4:

Twist to two stripped wires together like this. Do this to all three of them.










Step 5:

Wrap some tape around the cables so that they don't touch each other and blow up (over exaggeration it won't actually blow up)










Step 5:

Plug it into the motherboard system fan.










Step 6:

Screw it to the inside of the side panel and test to see if it is working properly.










If it does work properly then reatatch the side panel to your PC and your PC will run 2C cooler


----------



## Faster_is_better

hahaha, super ghetto ^

You can fix the broken blades by gluing them with PVC glue, its like plumbers glue for putting pvc pipe together, works decently. Just have to use enough for it to stick, don't want to imbalance the blade


----------



## andrews2547

I don't have the blade any more lol I lost it more than a year ago


----------



## darkstar585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547;15277954*
> I don't have the blade any more lol I lost it more than a year ago


I am so sorry for your loss









that mod is GHEETTTO especially love the selotape to cover the bare wires.


----------



## andrews2547

Thanks







I have been doing that for years when rewiring speakers.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547;15308793*
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been doing that for years when rewiring speakers.


Why don't you get some electrical tape?


----------



## G33K

I had that same fan. For some reason, it got clogged with dust to the point that it would not spin at all, yet the crappy no-brand stock fan hasn't died?


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrasherht;15309132*
> Why don't you get some electrical tape?


I did have some but it ran out and I haven't bought any more since lol


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thrasherht*


Why don't you get some electrical tape?


Then it would lose some of its "ghetto appeal" of course!









haha


----------



## Calibos

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boateye*


Only nerds would remember stuff like that










Yeah man, ya gotta laugh at those nerds. The likes of us were too busy gettin it on with the girls and wondering why it hurt when we stuck our fingers in a power socket for a dare.


----------



## 1.21Jigawatts

Dude, all you need now is one of those USB drink coolers to chill that NOS bottle.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*


So more Ghettoness I have/had going on

A i5 750 cooler core with a 80mm Rosewill fan cooling my E6700
















The temps werent terrible with that setup.

My current Ghetto cooling


----------



## badatgames18

taped some uk3 to a prolimatech armageddon









where can i find the formal clips for fans


----------



## breadcrums

first photo is of a 80mm fan below my HDD with fixed with some tags(those things that keep a bunch of wires together) to my HDD bay








HDD temp down from 39C to 33C :shock:

Rest are of the 120mm fan i fitted in the 3 unused dvd drive bays









they are simply press fitted between layers of foam.no screws to nothing!
i cut the covers of the drive bay to make an opening and used some wire mesh as cover








neat gettho i think !


----------



## breadcrums

well,i wanted stickers of the hardware i use..which i didnt get with the box







(why cant they simply throw in a sticker!)

so i cut out the stuff that i needed form the box that the hardware came in









photos attached.


----------



## ehume

Quote:



Originally Posted by *badatgames18*


taped some uk3 to a prolimatech armageddon 









where can i find the formal clips for fans










I don't think you will. But try running some ziptie screws to attach the two fans. See the thread linked in my sig.


----------



## badatgames18

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ehume*


I don't think you will. But try running some ziptie screws to attach the two fans. See the thread linked in my sig.


yep.. thanks ehume... went to the store and got some zipties.. works like a charm, and used your pics as reference


----------



## rpm666




----------



## twich12

Quote:



Originally Posted by *breadcrums*


well,i wanted stickers of the hardware i use..which i didnt get with the box







(why cant they simply throw in a sticker!)

so i cut out the stuff that i needed form the box that the hardware came in









photos attached.


you know, you can contact those companies and usually they will send you case badges for free lol


----------



## breadcrums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twich12;15465990*
> you know, you can contact those companies and usually they will send you case badges for free lol


well,i wrote to them,didnt get a reply


----------



## sabbathcrazy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rpm666*













Is this a cooling system for your computer? Sticking pipes in the ground to use the cooler air underground to cool your pc?


----------



## ascaii

im guessing geothermal loop? How come those rads arent hooked up?


----------



## bluedevil

From my crazier days....


----------



## PB4UGO

^not too ghetto, but rather desperate! haha


----------



## Deacon

Ok here is mine, right now I'm between builds, so I just riped out everything out of the old case this:










here its the photos of the improvised rig:




























So today I had time to try and rip the motherboard tray out of the old case, dam took me sometime, I had to rip nearly 20 rivets and had to completly remove the bottom of the case to finally set the motherboard tray free, they sure didn't want the tray to come out







.
Heres the final result:




























Looks better, this is temporary until I get my new case.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Deacon*


Ok here is mine, right now I'm between builds, so I just riped out everything out of the old case this:










Looks better, this is temporary until I get my new case.


That is awesomeness


----------



## Deacon

Thanks men, I got the idea of painting it since I got a few cans laing around but the weather here isn't helping its raining allot, by the time I can actually do some painting I will probably have my new case in hands so by then it will be pointless.


----------



## iCrap

sig rig atm. Keepin it ghetto.


----------



## NateN34

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iCrap*


sig rig atm. Keepin it ghetto.










Lmao @ the case badges on the top of the heatsink.


----------



## Sircles

have been bothered with putting my 2nd rig in a case yet....


----------



## iCrap

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NateN34*


Lmao @ the case badges on the top of the heatsink.


Its better than putting them on the case itself and having that adhesive crap all over the case that takes forever to get off


----------



## JedixJarf

I will post my ghetto dedi-folding gene-z rig tonight


----------



## Deacon

So today the weather actually helped and since I had the time, I painted the motherboard tray, I/O shield and the HD cages =O, well there was some complications wit the I/O Shield and the HDD cage, I accidentally dropped the spray can and broke the nozzle, and to make it worse I actually try to painted like that but didn't work lol, the I/O Shield and the HDD cage are horribly painted LOL. but at least the mother board tray turn out pretty good.

My ghetto rig 3.0:




























Not sure if this is still considerated ghetto rig tho =S.


----------



## Vagrant Storm

Heh...even though I have a stupidly large desk, I got tired of having a case on my desk and I didn't want it on the floor. My desk has one of those compartments for a computer to sit in but anything but a mini-ATX case would have been too large to fit in side it. So I set this up literally in about two hours a couple weekends ago.

So I improvised. I consider this version .1 and it has already been decided that I am getting a new desk for the holidays...so I wasn't worried about the desk. In the final version I think I will have 2 systems in there. Right now there is just one...I have a button to turn it on ontop of my desk, but planning to add switches for reset and CMOS clearing as well. I think I might play around with some cable and hose management for this yet thought and the new desk will get painted inside first.

Any ideas would be welcome...the new desk I plan to get will have a compartment just like this. Never buy a desk from Ashley furniture. The top of it will peel off, but if it didn't I would have my self a quasi-case-desk.


----------



## ehume

I like it. +rep


----------



## iCrap

@storm that actually looks pretty good.


----------



## Paratrooper1n0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;15533747*
> Its better than putting them on the case itself and having that adhesive crap all over the case that takes forever to get off


Alcohol anyone?


----------



## kevinf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Paratrooper1n0*


Alcohol anyone?


Nope! wayyy better: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en


----------



## Vagrant Storm

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iCrap*


@storm that actually looks pretty good.


Thanks

It is kind of nice since I can have the fans spun up a bit faster and just shut the door and then hardly hear them. I am planning to turn the 240 rad into a 360 and then take out that 120 so I can have another lower intake. The last case i was using could comfortably fit a 360 rad so i went with 120 + 240 and a big pump. I thought it would be nice to have the hot air blowing on my feet in the winter...it gets a little too warm though

It turned out to work really well. When the new desk comes I plan to do more cosmetic improvements, but I think I will stay close to this setup. I have an exhaust near the top and then on each radiator. Currently just the one intake on the bottom. Though even if left on all night it only gets about 2Â°C warmer than ambient in there. My only real concern is making sure air moves around to cool the mosfets and anything with a passive heat sink, but the 120mm fan on the motherboard tray is doing a decent job of that...just not the wind tunnel like effect you get in a case.


----------



## Sircles

i needed to try a triple sli set up... but they dont stay very cool while they still have the air blocks on....


----------



## breadcrums

gettho wind tunnel!!
TOO MUCH TEXT.IF BORED,SIMPLY SEE PICTURES









photobucket album link

i have a xfx 6770hd 1 gb.
i wasnt really having any heating issues,but just wanted to do something so that it runs cooler.
so all my slots below the gpu are empty.so i 'zip-tied' a 120mm cooler master silent pro fan to exhaust heat out.
then about 2inches away from the hdd bay i wanted to put an 80mm fan so the air is directed towarts the gpu,then the 120mm fan at the back.
but it needed some elevation.so i took 4 blocks of wood i had lying around and added a layer of foam between each piece to dampen the vibration of the fan and then stuck them with tape.put a fan on top of it with another layer of foam in between and taped the whole thing!!
the whole hideous pack is stuck with velcro to the base.drilled holes on the side panel an a passive intake.

at first i didnt see much temp drop,so i added a low cfm 120mm side intake fan.runs at around 650rpm with 22cfm.this was cause my card has an open heat sink and fan,so it blows out air in all directions.now the side fan provides it with cold air and also pushes the exhausted air from the gpu towards the exhaust(checked the direction of air flow by holding a cheap cigar near the the front of the case







)

temps are down from 52C at idle to 47C.








also the whole pcb and heat sink feels a lot cooler the touch.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Damn breadcrums, that's ghetto right there, haha!!!


----------



## breadcrums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi;15584473*
> Damn breadcrums, that's ghetto right there, haha!!!


hell yeah


----------



## naizarak

nothing ghetto like what some of you guys posted...but both my cpu and gpu are unlocked chips. plus i jtagged my xbox myself...which was probably the most ghetto DIY thing i ever did


----------



## Qasual

For the time being till I get longer M5 screws.


----------



## darkstar585

Not sure if I have posted this on here.....so I will post it anyway.

Question: What do you when you live in a tiny student house with no room for a desk anywhere?

Answer: You build a transformable coffee table









I couldn't afford high quality wood so I ended up using savaged floorboards glued together.


screen fits in just!


finished, sanded and stained.






Now I can work/game on the sofa with a wireless keyboard on my lap and a wireless mouse on the armrest


----------



## Eaglake

Wow dude that's something Amazing!


----------



## Faster_is_better

That is win darkstar!


----------



## eskamobob1

that gave me a major idea... but how am i gunna get it to work with 3 monitors?


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Made my NZXT Tempest-Evo side panel window swing open with cabinet hinges from wal-mart.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkstar585*
> 
> Not sure if I have posted this on here.....so I will post it anyway.
> Question: What do you when you live in a tiny student house with no room for a desk anywhere?
> Answer: You build a transformable coffee table
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't afford high quality wood so I ended up using savaged floorboards glued together.
> 
> screen fits in just!
> 
> finished, sanded and stained.
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can work/game on the sofa with a wireless keyboard on my lap and a wireless mouse on the armrest


That is to good to be in the ghetto thread


----------



## mikupoiss

Who lives in the aquarium? I see something on the background...


----------



## darkstar585

thanks for the love guys








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikupoiss*
> 
> Who lives in the aquarium? I see something on the background...


ha ha nothing fancy just a couple of gerbils that I smuggled into the house as my landlord said i'm not supposed to have any pets of any kind... :/

(BTW I am NOT into gerbiling of any kind before anyone makes a comment about them.







)


----------



## blooder11181

They're so cute.


----------



## ILOVEPOTtery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkstar585*
> 
> thanks for the love guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ha ha nothing fancy just a couple of gerbils that I smuggled into the house as my landlord said i'm not supposed to have any pets of any kind... :/
> (BTW I am NOT into gerbiling of any kind before anyone makes a comment about them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


"See that gerbil? Grab that tube."


----------



## Zeek

This is my TF9000 cooler on my reference 560 ti







Getting 64C under furmark at 950/1900/2200 lol


----------



## darkstar585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ILOVEPOTtery*
> 
> "See that gerbil? Grab that tube."


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkstar585*


I was thinking about this guy when I read that.


----------



## darkstar585

Eminem sang about it, Richard Gere actually did it


----------



## andrews2547




----------



## inVain

my gettho fan controller


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inVain*
> 
> my gettho fan controller


nice!


----------



## Nemesis158

I got the Mobo in my sig rig for $50 on ebay because its "broken". it wont POST if the cpu heatsink isnt supported properly (something wrong with the PCB wont let it start unless its straght) so i made a bracket to hold my Heatsink up......... Out of a coathanger


----------



## breadcrums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis158*
> 
> I got the Mobo in my sig rig for $50 on ebay because its "broken". it wont POST if the cpu heatsink isnt supported properly (something wrong with the PCB wont let it start unless its straght) so i made a bracket to hold my Heatsink up......... Out of a coathanger


i dont see any coat hanger!nice looking rig tough!


----------



## Nemesis158

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> i dont see any coat hanger!nice looking rig tough!


the metal wire you can see on the outsides of the HS


----------



## inVain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis158*
> 
> I got the Mobo in my sig rig for $50 on ebay because its "broken". it wont POST if the cpu heatsink isnt supported properly (something wrong with the PCB wont let it start unless its straght) so i made a bracket to hold my Heatsink up......... Out of a coathanger


lookin' nice....
think I'm gonna do that too


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis158*
> 
> I got the Mobo in my sig rig for $50 on ebay because its "broken". it wont POST if the cpu heatsink isnt supported properly (something wrong with the PCB wont let it start unless its straght) so i made a bracket to hold my Heatsink up......... Out of a coathanger


You're a genius!!!! Great thinking there bud!!!


----------



## andrews2547

I think I should probably upload some pictures of my ex-wireless mouse


----------



## thecharrr

One of my really old gaming machines would overheat in its stock case, so I had to take the outer case off and run a house fan to the side of it to play games on it. Worked great back then, now it gathers dust.


----------



## breadcrums

needed openings for my front bottom fan.

drilled holes!then used cut up Bic pens for some clearance between the front panel and the fan


----------



## micro5797

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> needed openings for my front bottom fan.
> drilled holes!then used cut up Bic pens for some clearance between the front panel and the fan


Keep in mind that you will only be getting an estimated 40-50% of fresh air from out side the case. The other 50-60% will be recirculating the air from inside the case there is too much material between the drilled air holes.
Good idea though.


----------



## thrasherht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> needed openings for my front bottom fan.
> drilled holes!then used cut up Bic pens for some clearance between the front panel and the fan


I would cut out a hole instead of drilling holes, and then use a mesh to cover the hole to make it look nice.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Ghetto, energy efficient, small form factor system with battery backup! XD

Flipped over Toshiba L305D and a $25 thrift store LCD panel


----------



## breadcrums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *micro5797*
> 
> Keep in mind that you will only be getting an estimated 40-50% of fresh air from out side the case. The other 50-60% will be recirculating the air from inside the case there is too much material between the drilled air holes.
> Good idea though.


i am aware of that,but didnt have the 'proper' tools to do it.

could have done it gettho style but that would have meant some permanent ugliness 

will do it nicely once m done with mid terms .

ty 

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *thrasherht*
> 
> I would cut out a hole instead of drilling holes, and then use a mesh to cover the hole to make it look nice.


i did the same on my side panel and my back exhaust 

cut the pre factory drilled holes with a wire cutter(gettho as compared to a drill+dermal) and added a steel wire mesh,then painted it black 

photos below.







also once i have enough time on my hands,i will scvange the scrap yards for some speaker grills.u know the steel ones with tiny holes in them.if i get the right size and if they look better than a steel wire mesh,would paint and add those


----------



## crazybonze

I dont have a picture of it in action (sorry) but when i OCed my last rig my NB was too hot even with a better heat sink so i stuck some double sided tape to a 50mm fan and stuck it right on my motherboard. the tape stayed on the board between the NB and RAM. It worked great and even cooled my ram a little because it puled air form over the bottom of it.
Also my first PSU that i got just to get it up and running did not have a long enough 4 pin CPU cable so i did some soldering and heat shrink work on it.


----------



## breadcrums

nice work crazybonze









heres how i m cooling my cpu during the ongoing foldathon.

a 120mm fan stuck over the stock cooler with double sided tape and supported with pencils,just in case the tabe cant take the stress of the fan


----------



## TheRockMonsi

breadcrums, that's epic!!!!


----------



## crazybonze

You have to love the double sided tape. It is almost as epic as ducktape.


----------



## foothead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazybonze*
> 
> You have to love the double sided tape. It is almost as epic as ducktape.


You're gonna love this then. http://www.amazon.com/Duck%C2%AE-Double-Sided-Duct-Tape-Feet/dp/B001WQLUMS


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foothead*
> 
> You're gonna love this then. http://www.amazon.com/Duck%C2%AE-Double-Sided-Duct-Tape-Feet/dp/B001WQLUMS


LOL - time to upgrade


----------



## lurkingdevil

I wanted to mount a 3rd HDD in my system.
Ofcourse, I could have used the extra HDD cage provided with my case..



but that would result in loss of airflow and more clutter. we can't have that!

zip ties to the rescue...



There are 4 of them. I didn't have zip-ties long enough to go around the HDD so I made a loop using two zip ties that fits.


----------



## breadcrums

daym lurking devil!


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrfajita*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blower held in with duct tape, and a piece of copper wire tied to the back of the case. $1 mod that took 7C off my GPU load temp. Win.


OMG! BEST IDEA EVER!
You have inspired me as i have a HAF and that exact same blower sitting in my room! Time to disassemble the thing! Going to get some Gaffa tape for mine though








Or screws... heh


----------



## phillyd

I upgraded a friend's cpu and needed another molex so i cut it off the old one and soldered a splitter. my speaker input wire has been replaced by one from old computer speakers, the wires are twisted together with nothing holding theme there


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I upgraded a friend's cpu and needed another molex so i cut it off the old one and soldered a splitter. my speaker input wire has been replaced by one from old computer speakers, the wires are twisted together with nothing holding theme there


Sorry but


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> Sorry but


Eh +moar then nyan-thousand!


----------



## Pittster

Here we go Ghetto but functional,

So my old Rig with my still currently used GTX280's in Sli were getting hottish.

So got a old dead powersupply tin snipped a 90 deg bracket out of it to get the nice 120mm hole from it and put a 1500rpm 120mm fan it.

First trial i tapped it to the side of the cards with race tape for safety









Second evolution I bent the bracket 90 deg slid it up to the cards and taped it there.

It did reduce temps by 6-8deg

And I still run this mod in my current build but Its a lot neater, with a quieter fan & awesome 3M Velcro strips holding it.

Ver 1









Ver2









Ver3 Non Ghetto Version


----------



## Eaglake

I love this thread such a great suff's in here

This is how I cool my 9800GX2
This is an old P3 fan


Need to cool from both sides when folding (without fans temps reach +102C and above, with fans 94C and lower if ambient temps are lower)


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Man, if that card is really old, you might want to consider taking the heatsink off of it and doing some maintenance on it. That could potentially help out significantly.


----------



## killabytes

I had to dig these ones out but...




That was an OLD file server I had. The video card ran very hot, so I had this fan suck, or blow, can't remember now.


----------



## swOrd_fish

i've seen tons of router cooling mods around, and i found my router(Linksys WRT54G2) runs that hot either.... and so i did mine here;

been searching with those junks laying around for a makeshift heatsink, these 'little wonders' grabbed my attention:

my WRT54G2 router, yes those are staples...


















i thought that it's slim design casing with less ventillation holes made this router runs that hot and so i punched some with it (raged lol!)










i have this old 90mm fan installed(zip tie to the rescue) for exhaust: (a separate 220v to 12v power power supply runs it, forgot to take pics







)










same goes with my modem, here's a pic without the 'heatsinks', i used an ordinary office/school double sided tape to attach/mount the heatsinks btw:










with the heatsinks;










i'm looking for a 60mm fan(exhaust) now for my modem....
i'm not expecting miracles to make my internet fast with this mod cause definitely my ISP sucks, i only have this 1MB internet plan







.
but this mod surely made my modem/router cooler than before, the cooler the better just what i thought here


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swOrd_fish*


Those are awesome heatsinks.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi*
> 
> Man, if that card is really old, you might want to consider taking the heatsink off of it and doing some maintenance on it. That could potentially help out significantly.


I have considered it but then again it needs to run like few months more and I will change it. Not worth the hustle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killabytes*
> 
> I had to dig these ones out but...
> 
> That was an OLD file server I had. The video card ran very hot, so I had this fan suck, or blow, can't remember now.


Looks like it's blowing air towards gpu.
Could you tell me the name of gpu?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swOrd_fish*
> 
> i've seen tons of router cooling mods around, and i found my router(Linksys WRT54G2) runs that hot either.... and so i did mine here;
> been searching with those junks laying around for a makeshift heatsink, these 'littele wonders' grabbed my attention:
> my WRT54G2 router, yes those are staples...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i thought that it's slim design casing with less ventillation holes made this router runs that hot and so i punched some with it (raged lol!)
> 
> i have this old 90mm fan installed(zip tie to the rescue) for exhaust: (a separate 220v to 12v power power supply runs it, forgot to take pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> same goes with my modem, here's a pic without the 'heatsinks', i used an ordinary office/school double sided tape to attach/mount the heatsinks btw:
> 
> with the heatsinks;
> 
> i'm looking for a 60mm fan(exhaust) now for my modem....
> i'm not expecting miracles to make my internet fast with this mod cause definitely my ISP sucks, i only have this 1MB internet plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> but this mod surely made my modem/router cooler than before, the cooler the better just what i thought here


The stapler HS is just epic.







Quote:


> the cooler the better


and longer lifespan to.

Edit: 1000 post


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR




----------



## van13330gg

Gotta save some spaces to upload all of my ghetto rigs.

1) I have a laptop that was smashed together with a monitor to make an all in one computer.

2) I have a big TV and an empty drawer. I had some money. I bought computer parts and dropped them into my drawer to make it an HTPC.

3) On a sunny day, I looked at my PC...and was just starring back at me. Soo I took everything out and put them on a peg board. Then I shoved the pegboard under the hooks of my table. Now I don't see my PC anymore. I also have a 3 pin fan converted to USB fan too. So awsome









And lastly as a bonus...I'll throw in some pictures of my modded PSU. PSU fan was being loud so I took it out. For some reason it didn't work once I oiled everything up...the connector didn't work either so I modded my 3 pin fan into a 4 pin molex and connected it into one of the 4 pin molex's hurhur!


----------



## Carniflex

An old ATI 9600 gfx card with a Zalman northbridge heatsink that way lying around in one of my drawers after the fan on the original cooler fried. I later used zippers to add a 50mm fan close to that heatsink as it was not keeping the card cool enough.


----------



## enri95

Hhaha, I wish I took a pic of of my rig in 2009.

It had p4 3.4
9600t
2gb ram
30$ mobo
ide dvd drive & hdd
$15 mid tower case without fans , it was bent
intel stock cpu cooler

The 9600gt used to make a very loud noise when i start up the pc, and it would stop after 5 min, I needed to move/hit the 9600gt with my hand when running to make it stop

After having the cpu for 4 years , it was getting really HOT, and the stock cooler would sound like a jet taking off, I used to put my room fan infront of the case

One day in 2008 the computer completely shut off... i took a brush and cleaned the dust in the cooler and it started up again lol


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swOrd_fish*
> 
> i've seen tons of router cooling mods around, and i found my router(Linksys WRT54G2) runs that hot either.... and so i did mine here;
> 
> been searching with those junks laying around for a makeshift heatsink, these 'littele wonders' grabbed my attention:
> 
> my WRT54G2 router, yes those are staples...


Dude, that's pure genius!!! I think I know what new heatsinks I'm throwing on my card the next time I take my loop apart!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## swOrd_fish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchLinuxFTW*
> 
> Those are awesome heatsinks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> The stapler HS is just epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> the cooler the better
> 
> 
> 
> and longer lifespan to.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi*
> 
> Dude, that's pure genius!!! I think I know what new heatsinks I'm throwing on my card the next time I take my loop apart!!!!!!!!!!!!!


thanks guys!








actually there's a lot of stuffs (even junks) around, that we have just overlooked and never thought that they would make sense after all.


----------



## van13330gg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *van13330gg*
> 
> Gotta save some spaces to upload all of my ghetto rigs.
> 1) I have a laptop that was smashed together with a monitor to make an all in one computer.
> 2) I have a big TV and an empty drawer. I had some money. I bought computer parts and dropped them into my drawer to make it an HTPC.
> 3) On a sunny day, I looked at my PC...and was just starring back at me. Soo I took everything out and put them on a peg board. Then I shoved the pegboard under the hooks of my table. Now I don't see my PC anymore. I also have a 3 pin fan converted to USB fan too. So awsome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And lastly as a bonus...I'll throw in some pictures of my modded PSU. PSU fan was being loud so I took it out. For some reason it didn't work once I oiled everything up...the connector didn't work either so I modded my 3 pin fan into a 4 pin molex and connected it into one of the 4 pin molex's hurhur!


1) HTPC that I made from spare parts of my old build that I sold.







2) All in one computer--made from monitor + old laptop







3) My current computer--under a table. Everything is placed on top of the peg board, including my external. The power supply doesn't have enough connection so I made a USB powered fan.


----------



## phillyd

does anyone know how to getto rig a molex power input to a 3pin fan? i am out of places to plug case fans into my motherboard, and i have lots of old power supplies laying around.


----------



## swOrd_fish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> does anyone know how to getto rig a molex power input to a 3pin fan? i am out of places to plug case fans into my motherboard, and i have lots of old power supplies laying around.


----------



## NKrader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheRockMonsi*
> 
> Man, if that card is really old, you might want to consider taking the heatsink off of it and doing some maintenance on it. That could potentially help out significantly.


doesnt matter 9800gx2 run about 95 even at the best of times. so add more fans


----------



## Belander87

Fan controller isn't in yet so My antec tricool fan speed switch is currently mounted threw the side panel grile. lol


----------



## MRHANDS

before this, i had all the wires pinched between the chassis and the closed side panel. that was ugly. so I did this.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Excellent idea there, MRHANDS! Is there a guide you could refer me to on how to do this? This seems like something I might be very interested in trying out.


----------



## OPENbracket

I found an xbox (original one) underneath my bed, plugged it in to find out that somewhere there is a short. After a few hours of tryig to find it I couldnt so....

























AND IT WORKS!


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> I found an xbox (original one) underneath my bed, plugged it in to find out that somewhere there is a short. After a few hours of tryig to find it I couldnt so....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AND IT WORKS!


THAT IS AWESOME!

I was gonna say "Shame it's not a 360" then i realized i would have just burnt the box


----------



## Nicoderm

This counts right? I had no case at the time because I build my new computer and still wanted to use the old one.


----------



## vulpecula

How about this?







By the way the case is sitting on top of the Heat / AC vent. The AC was on during the picture being taken so cold air was being blown up through the bottom of the case as well.


----------



## Nicoderm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vulpecula*
> 
> How about this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way the case is sitting on top of the Heat / AC vent. The AC was on during the picture being taken so cold air was being blown up through the bottom of the case as well.


Not worried about condensation?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nicoderm*
> 
> Not worried about condensation?


if thats the main air input, the cold air will have little moisture.


----------



## Eaglake

woow that's hell of a fan








how big is it? something like 500x500


----------



## cy-one

my current rig, featuring ghetto cable management, ghetto power button (not displayed) and ghetto noise dampening.
my laptop (still typing this on it, as the rig is moving files to make room for a new win7) is louder than that rig. weird.


----------



## mad0314

I jammed a small fan (90mm I think?) behind the expansion slots, on the outside on the back of the case, using styrofoam to "encourage" air flow past my video card and out the case. Not that it needs it or anything... And its not the best sight, but I don't look at it.


----------



## cy-one

Pics or didn't happen.


----------



## no_safe_HAVEN

My current "case" while im planning my custom setup. Wooden Box O' Fun


----------



## cy-one

looks promising! and you even got a non-cannibalised power button! wheee!


----------



## xTank Jones16x

Wanted to add some more airflow to my RAM/CPU, and I wanted to match the other 140mm in the front, so I modded in a 140mm fan in my 3 empty 5.25" drive bays with some small zip ties going through the holes where you would normally screw it in, and around the drive bay screw slots. I don't get an ounce of fan vibration, even on 100% speed.





I also modded my drive bay covers to be a lot more sturdy, and not fall off. Unfortunately they never stayed in that well, no matter what I did. So I got a couple of plastic clips (I don't know what they are called, my Dad gets them from CA state buildings when he does jobs, and I have not seen them in stores. There are like a plastic clip you would use to close a bag of chips, but with a small metal wire handle that you can remove just leaving the plastic clip part. And these things are STRONG STRONG. They do NOT move).


----------



## phillyd

you know you're a ghetto rigger when you almost leave the tape roll in the case


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you know you're a ghetto rigger when you almost leave the tape roll in the case


I done that once


----------



## mad0314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cy-one*
> 
> Pics or didn't happen.


Its late now but I might post pics tomorrow or over the weekend. It looks really crummy though, not terribly proud of it. I was just messing around last time I took my case apart, not like my card needs it, and no temp comparisons either.


----------



## CooooooooL

While I work on a few "minor" updates on my 3 yo cosmos s


----------



## Cheaptrick

Here's mine...


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> Here's mine...


LOL. Isnt that noisy as heck?


----------



## Shoplifter216

lol cheap *** size are those fans? 20mm?







Oh and heres mine by the way. I know this idea has been posted before on here but the reason I posted it was b/c of my epic shimming material i used. Think they call that stuff "case modders cardboard" i believe rofl.


----------



## Cheaptrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoplifter216*
> 
> lol cheap *** size are those fans? 20mm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and heres mine by the way. I know this idea has been posted before on here but the reason I posted it was b/c of my epic shimming material i used. Think they call that stuff "case modders cardboard" i believe rofl.


Those are 30 mm fans. I actually never run those fans yet. I'm still doing some stuff on my mod. I'm actually planning to connect the wires on those fans together to make a single connection. I posted it here hence I never see anyone doing this kind of fan mod that I'm doing. Might look so ghetto.


----------



## Shoplifter216

Lol no doubt i think it will have a cool look when finished and yes its def original. Aye gotta gimme props for only bein 10mm off!!!


----------



## dekciW

Heres mine..During my final Apollo mod When I was repainting the case...I got tired of not having a computer so I rigged this up. And even dressed it up for the pics xD. Honestly though The best temps I ever saw was when it was caseless xD.





































You can see More here I took night shots xD

http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/outlaw_027/Computer/3rd%20Apollo%20Build%20Paint/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ36

This was after I found out my PSU was going out hence the change of sleeving color..I was still painting the case...Awesome living right next to corsair RMA got it RMA'd in a day


----------



## Cheaptrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoplifter216*
> 
> Lol no doubt i think it will have a cool look when finished and yes its def original. Aye gotta gimme props for only bein 10mm off!!!


Yup, you almost got it right. I got another which I think is also ghetto rigging. What you think?


----------



## Shoplifter216

LOL now that is some true ghetto rigging right there haha. But hey it works lmao thats the most important part


----------



## mad0314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> Yup, you almost got it right. I got another which I think is also ghetto rigging. What you think?


Hey I have that same wireless thingie! I got it to replace the garbage one the internet people gave me that kept dropping every hour or so randomly and had seemingly no cure other than wait till it wanted to work.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dekciW*
> 
> Heres mine..During my final Apollo mod When I was repainting the case...I got tired of not having a computer so I rigged this up. And even dressed it up for the pics xD. Honestly though The best temps I ever saw was when it was caseless xD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see More here I took night shots xD
> http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/outlaw_027/Computer/3rd%20Apollo%20Build%20Paint/#!cpZZ2QQtppZZ36
> This was after I found out my PSU was going out hence the change of sleeving color..I was still painting the case...Awesome living right next to corsair RMA got it RMA'd in a day


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *no_safe_HAVEN*
> 
> My current "case" while im planning my custom setup. Wooden Box O' Fun


That's crazy! I wouldn't have had the guts to do that!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xTank Jones16x*
> 
> Wanted to add some more airflow to my RAM/CPU, and I wanted to match the other 140mm in the front, so I modded in a 140mm fan in my 3 empty 5.25" drive bays with some small zip ties going through the holes where you would normally screw it in, and around the drive bay screw slots. I don't get an ounce of fan vibration, even on 100% speed.
> 
> 
> I also modded my drive bay covers to be a lot more sturdy, and not fall off. Unfortunately they never stayed in that well, no matter what I did. So I got a couple of plastic clips (I don't know what they are called, my Dad gets them from CA state buildings when he does jobs, and I have not seen them in stores. There are like a plastic clip you would use to close a bag of chips, but with a small metal wire handle that you can remove just leaving the plastic clip part. And these things are STRONG STRONG. They do NOT move).


It's called a "Clip".. lol.
Kind of like a paperclip, but for larger amounts of documents








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I done that once


Same..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> Here's mine...


I've always thought of this! Measured it and all.. went to look for 20-30mm fans.. Those sort of sized fans here are $9 AUD each.. That's like at least $40-$50 on fans + adapters for it.
Tell us how it goes anyway!


----------



## Eaglake

did you really needed to quote all those pictures?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you really needed to quote all those pictures?


I actually didn't realize there were so many!








I guess i was too busy on Facebook talking to girls at the same time..


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I actually didn't realize there were so many!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess i was too busy on Facebook talking to girls at the same time..


stop trying to brag


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you really needed to quote all those pictures?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually didn't realize there were so many!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess i was too busy on Facebook talking to girls at the same time..
Click to expand...

You have been forgiven, but please make sure not to quote so many next time.


----------



## nikpatton__

Here's my ghetto tech bench. It's a bit rough but I gained a sense of accomplishment after putting it together so I guess that's worth something. I'm planning on making another one but less tall so I don't have to put my psu on a box to make the cables stretch....some sort of hard-drive/dvd burner mount would also be nice


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> stop trying to brag


I wasn't! :O
I don't talk to guys on Facebook really, only like if i'm organizing a sleepover or something! haha


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> stop trying to brag
> 
> 
> 
> I wasn't! :O
> I don't talk to guys on Facebook really, only like if i'm organizing a sleepover or something! haha
Click to expand...

if you werent trying to brag (even subconsciously) you wouldve just said "too busy on facebook"

lol


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> if you werent trying to brag (even subconsciously) you wouldve just said "too busy on facebook"
> lol


Not really, i was just showing that my mind was on other things instead of overclock.net... If you get what i mean lol.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> if you werent trying to brag (even subconsciously) you wouldve just said "too busy on facebook"
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> Not really, i was just showing that my mind was on other things instead of overclock.net... If you get what i mean lol.
Click to expand...

im just messin with ya man.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> im just messin with ya man.


That's understandable mate!


----------



## Cheaptrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> LOL. Isnt that noisy as heck?


I actually tried running those fans today. I barely hear any noise problably because those fans are just very tiny to produce significant noises if any.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1613307/width/525/height/700/flags/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> LOL. Isnt that noisy as heck?
> 
> 
> 
> I actually tried running those fans today. I barely hear any noise problably because those fans are just very tiny to produce significant noises if any.
Click to expand...

you need to rig those wires straight down to the bottom of the case.


----------



## kyismaster

Ahhhhhhhhhhh page 104 killed my bandwidth








just kidding, i don't have bandwidth


----------



## mybadomen

Omg i have a ghetto rig!!! Awesome thread. Even my desk was Ghetto.I just had to search forever to find these Photos tucked away .but yeah heres my Ghetto Rig.Hey at least it has Dual keyboard.Thats got to be good for something











Yup its Liquid Cooled:





And here's Ghetto Laptop:


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> Omg i have a ghetto rig!!! Awesome thread. Even my desk was Ghetto.I just had to search forever to find these Photos tucked away .but yeah heres my Ghetto Rig.Hey at least it has Dual keyboard.Thats got to be good for something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yup its Liquid Cooled:
> 
> 
> And here's Ghetto Laptop:


That laptop idea sounds neato.


----------



## Cheaptrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> you need to rig those wires straight down to the bottom of the case.


I soldered this fans on parallel connection. So far, it's working.


----------



## Pittster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> I soldered this fans on parallel connection. So far, it's working.


How much air is that roughly pushing out ? like a 120mm at low rpm ? It's a great idea cause with my SLI setup that area is a real deadspot for heat.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pittster*
> 
> How much air is that roughly pushing out ? like a 120mm at low rpm ? It's a great idea cause with my SLI setup that area is a real deadspot for heat.


i would guess a combined CFM of 25-40~ depending on RPM, each of those fans probably go about 5-7~ CFM lol

AMD heatsink- 5000 - 8000 RPM fans will get you ~ 10 cfm per fan @ like 40mm lol.


----------



## AoHxBram

*This is not mine*, but its awesome nonetheless :



might have been posted before.


----------



## Princess Garnet

I thought I'd never have/do anything improper enough to be able to post something here, but I guess I just did, and it's still nothing compared to what some of you are doing.

I was getting a bit bothered by how much dust the side door (both the optional internal one and exterior one) would gather so quickly, so I decided to take it off. It kept the inside cleaner, or at least the dust more centralized to the easier to get to places, but still. I don't think it's doing a whole lot for temperatures anyway, so it's added dust/noise. We'll see though, because my video card ran warm even with that. This is still a test in progress, I suppose.

While I was at it, I decided to get rid of the LED fans because they didn't match my stuff (they were Orange; stuff is Blue), and I just didn't want them anymore, so the ones that were on the side door replaced those four. I also took the optional grills off of them since they were likely adding some noise. These fans are quieter than the Xigmatek ones too, but also push less air. It's an open type case so I'm hoping that doesn't have a big impact. As a result, it's quieter and, so far/I hope, cools about as well. They are just the standard Cooler Master silent type, but wow are they quiet.

The thing is, I didn't have a way to get the the two front fans on. One had flanges (or whatever they are/called) that were long enough to need a grille in place to hold them firm, and the other was a shorter type that wouldn't even work with these fans. I had to resort to electrical tape.










Silly photo making the fans look idle when they were spinning when I took it.

Anyway, I taped each side in the center, and then additionally taped the two together in the center (bad idea or good idea or doesn't matter on that second part?). I was worried about how firm it'd hold them, but it does perfectly. There's some mesh pieces in front of them, and then the door, which is also mesh, so it's never seen. This might even make cleaning them easier and quicker, so I might just stick with it.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Princess Garnet*
> 
> I thought I'd never have/do anything improper enough to be able to post something here, but I guess I just did, and it's still nothing compared to what some of you are doing.
> 
> I was getting a bit bothered by how much dust the side door (both the optional internal one and exterior one) would gather so quickly, so I decided to take it off. It kept the inside cleaner, or at least the dust more centralized to the easier to get to places, but still. I don't think it's doing a whole lot for temperatures anyway, so it's added dust/noise. We'll see though, because my video card ran warm even with that. This is still a test in progress, I suppose.
> 
> While I was at it, I decided to get rid of the LED fans because they didn't match my stuff (they were Orange; stuff is Blue), and I just didn't want them anymore, so the ones that were on the side door replaced those four. I also took the optional grills off of them since they were likely adding some noise. These fans are quieter than the Xigmatek ones too, but also push less air. It's an open type case so I'm hoping that doesn't have a big impact. As a result, it's quieter and, so far/I hope, cools about as well. They are just the standard Cooler Master silent type, but wow are they quiet.
> 
> The thing is, I didn't have a way to get the the two front fans on. One had flanges (or whatever they are/called) that were long enough to need a grille in place to hold them firm, and the other was a shorter type that wouldn't even work with these fans. I had to resort to electrical tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Silly photo making the fans look idle when they were spinning when I took it.
> 
> Anyway, I taped each side in the center, and then additionally taped the two together in the center (bad idea or good idea or doesn't matter on that second part?). I was worried about how firm it'd hold them, but it does perfectly. There's some mesh pieces in front of them, and then the door, which is also mesh, so it's never seen. This might even make cleaning them easier and quicker, so I might just stick with it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pittster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> I soldered this fans on parallel connection. So far, it's working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much air is that roughly pushing out ? like a 120mm at low rpm ? It's a great idea cause with my SLI setup that area is a real deadspot for heat.
Click to expand...

that is sexy man. good job!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Princess Garnet*
> 
> I thought I'd never have/do anything improper enough to be able to post something here, but I guess I just did, and it's still nothing compared to what some of you are doing.
> 
> Silly photo making the fans look idle when they were spinning when I took it.
> 
> Anyway, I taped each side in the center, and then additionally taped the two together in the center (bad idea or good idea or doesn't matter on that second part?). I was worried about how firm it'd hold them, but it does perfectly. There's some mesh pieces in front of them, and then the door, which is also mesh, so it's never seen. This might even make cleaning them easier and quicker, so I might just stick with it.


i had 2 fans rigged like this and then i got some good double sided tape.


----------



## SpammisT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AoHxBram*
> 
> *This is not mine*, but its awesome nonetheless :
> 
> might have been posted before.


I've got a question about this one...

Is that an extension of the PCI x16 slot to the 5850? What in the hell, never seen anything like this!

This is inspiring lol


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpammisT*
> 
> I've got a question about this one...
> Is that an extension of the PCI x16 slot to the 5850? What in the hell, never seen anything like this!
> This is inspiring lol


Yeah it is, pcie x16 ribbon extension cable.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Yeah it is, pcie x16 ribbon extension cable.


where do i get one? ;D

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-Express-PCI-E-16X-Riser-Card-Extender-Ribbon-Cable-/270879087303?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f11a6dac7


----------



## SpykeZ

I wouldn't order from ebay in fear of getting some cheaply made chinese knockoff that'll end up screwing something up.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> I wouldn't order from ebay in fear of getting some cheaply made chinese knockoff that'll end up screwing something up.


i sappose, i was just shooting a option. i just realized, this is used more for 1/2u server applications! interesting!


----------



## iinversion

I disconnected pretty much everything from my computer the night before my new CPU/motherboard was suppose to come in.. and the next day UPS decided not to do anything with the package and it didn't come in.. so I had to temporarily put it back together.


----------



## kyismaster

For Daring Eyes only. Just kidding. i wanted to be a space saver.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Citra

Where did you get the tampering sticker?


----------



## mybadomen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> That laptop idea sounds neato.


Yeah and they both were running windows 7.I still use the briefcase one all the time.Very convenient.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Where did you get the tampering sticker?


eeeebaaaaaayyy


----------



## killabytes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> I wouldn't order from ebay in fear of getting some cheaply made chinese knockoff that'll end up screwing something up.


Bah! They're all made in China anyway. I bought some PCIe and PCI-X extensions on eBay for ~$2. They've been working for years. Not much to screw up. It's just a bunch of copper!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> That laptop idea sounds neato.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah and they both were running windows 7.I still use the briefcase one all the time.Very convenient.
Click to expand...

dude ur hoses look beastly.


----------



## Fatalrip

So my 80mm fan that i had in my side panel (cracked acrylic window) broke yesterday night. So i figured i would make one out of some material i had laying around. Only tools used were a pocket knife and a screwdriver. .....Long story short the side of my computer is now a whiteboard


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killabytes*
> 
> Bah! They're all made in China anyway. I bought some PCIe and PCI-X extensions on eBay for ~$2. They've been working for years. Not much to screw up. It's just a bunch of copper!


:B thats soo true.


----------



## granno21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fatalrip*
> 
> So my 80mm fan that i had in my side panel (cracked acrylic window) broke yesterday night. So i figured i would make one out of some material i had laying around. Only tools used were a pocket knife and a screwdriver. .....Long story short the side of my computer is now a whiteboard


That is pretty sweet. I like the idea of changing your computer decals by simply wiping away and redrawing


----------



## Fatalrip

Thanks, i was gonna use cardboard as im getting a new case in like 2 weeks but then i saw the white board in my closet. Still looking for a dry erase marker- might have to buy one


----------



## phillyd

hey all, is it safe to use a cardboard box to mount my mobo on temporarily (and then run the computer off of it) while i wait for my new case to arrive?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> hey all, is it safe to use a cardboard box to mount my mobo on temporarily (and then run the computer off of it) while i wait for my new case to arrive?


Yes perfectly fine, even more so, Manufacturers say, if you do not have a anti static bag to ship sensitive materials, use a brown paper bag!









go for it! make sure you post pictures.


----------



## iinversion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> hey all, is it safe to use a cardboard box to mount my mobo on temporarily (and then run the computer off of it) while i wait for my new case to arrive?


Yup perfectly safe. I have mine on a cardboard box on page 107.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iinversion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> hey all, is it safe to use a cardboard box to mount my mobo on temporarily (and then run the computer off of it) while i wait for my new case to arrive?
> 
> 
> 
> Yup perfectly safe. I have mine on a cardboard box on page 107.
Click to expand...

did it!
all i have is an old webcam












this one is to show the risers i used


----------



## TheRockMonsi

@thx1138, I guess they call it ghetto for a reason.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> did it!
> all i have is an old webcam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one is to show the risers i used


nice , just don't let anything fly into it xD


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> did it!
> all i have is an old webcam
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one is to show the risers i used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice , just don't let anything fly into it xD
Click to expand...

lol ill be very careful!
and ill have a case for it in less than a week anyways


----------



## phillyd

New power button (pulled from the inside of the eMachines case that my first desktop was in.


----------



## darkstar585

I know this isn't desktop related but its ghetto rigging so i thought I would share it.









Story goes

I Fixed my friends red ring of death on his xbox 360 over a year ago by removing the X-clamps and re flowing the solder by overheating it and it seemed to do the trick, up until a few days ago when it suddenly sprung a ring again.







. Now anyone else who has tried repairing one of these will understand how much of pain they are to pull apart and i didn't fancy doing it again, if this box decides to RROD in an hour/day/week/month or whenever.

So as I had it apart I grabbed whatever I could find and started modding ghetto stylie!









First job on the list was to fit a toggle switch to the return side of the fans supply so i wouldn't have to pull the thing apart to "cook" it if it fails again.






Obviously now the cover wouldn't fit on so I performed a hack job to create an opening for the switch and decided to make it into an air vent to help generate some additional airflow within the case.


Nice and discrete.....










Opened the holes up on the bottom of the metallic case to expose the bolts used for the HSF. I have repaired around 9 xbox's now for friends/family and have found that loosening them off 1/4 turn before overheating it, letting it cool and then tightening them up seems to be the best method for ghetto re-flowing. on this box I have also drilled the holes through the plastic case to gain access to the bolts but forgot to take a pic











Once i had it back together, I switched the new fan switch to off, started it up and waited for the 3 reds light to turn into 2 and then switched the system off to allow it to cool. After a period of 20 miins cooling I tightened the HSF, flipped the fans back on and started it up and......


VOILA







now if it happens again my friend can fix it his damn self and leave me alone.....







( just kidding Paul







)


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkstar585*
> 
> VOILA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now if it happens again my friend can fix it his damn self and leave me alone.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( *just kidding Paul*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


No he wasn't.









Anyway, that's some awesome work on the Xbox there, darkstar! A pretty ingenious mod if you ask me.


----------



## HolyDeltaWings

using my new case to power my old stuff because I forgot to back everything up


----------



## linuxfueled

My ghetto rig water cooling big and bulky!



Gallery:
http://postimage.org/my.php?gallery=ox6lwyc


----------



## linuxfueled

3 totally independent pumps and water circuits for SLI and CPU


----------



## yuisporing

My friend bought a new desk today for his high end water cooled pc and this is what he showed me:


This is his gaming/entertainment setup with readily available tissue on hand.
Take notice of the $500 DSLR mounted on the tripod smaller than his pc.


----------



## no_safe_HAVEN

Well at least his priorities are in the right place??









Tell him to clean up next time before taking a pic!!


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linuxfueled*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 totally independent pumps and water circuits for SLI and CPU


Wow, that is an insane setup!!!


----------



## xXSebaSXx

Here's my ghetto rig on the side of the computer.

- Beastly fan held down with rubber bands? Check.
- Mess of wires all over the place. Check?
- Home made fan controller because that fan would blow up the headers on any motherboard? Check.


----------



## CooooooooL

Playing with LEDs figuring how to best separate built-in fan lighting.










Figured it out... unplugged this hazard!


----------



## linuxfueled

A Verizon wireless router mounting device that actually works with network cables attached to it.
Copper and wood screws!


----------



## linuxfueled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lieutenant_Dan*
> 
> my xbox shenanigans. you might be wonding what i was doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is an original xbox power the pump and fan of the loop cooling a 360


Don't ever use "boat bilge pumps" as a water pump for your PC as shown in the pictures above! They will burn out very quickly and fail on you. They are designed for short term use.


----------



## mybadomen

Not sure if i showed these already but here is some of my better wire management and its liquid cooled also if you look close.Hope you enjoy them:Also yup thats a Mickey Mouse Monitor.







And here is another shenanigan:


----------



## PCModderMike

So ghetto I keep it in the garage full time to fold haha! Very old Pentium 4 HT salvaged from a thought to be dead Dell, only 1.25GB of DDR2 memory, and a very out of place GTX 570 with an Accelero cooler mounted, keeps it extra cool and quiet and is bringing in most of my PPD


----------



## no_safe_HAVEN

I had one of those. Unfortunately is now in my house as my sig rig!!!!!


----------



## GUnit

I thought I was just being clever or cheap, but, thanks to this thread, I see that it's ghetto rigged.









The PCI USB 2.0 card has an internal port. I thought "what a waste, I can't use it with the cover on", so I cut a small hole in a expansion slot cover and ran that USB cable through to a 4 port hub.


Here is my PSU attached to the hinged mount with one screw and some wire ties. Most of the wires I don't need are coiled and tied next to it. You can also see the motherboard connection looped around and taped/tied to the top of the case where it meets an adapter to make it a 24 and 16 pin connection.


Here is another pic of my shameful cable management even after I've routed some behind the hard drives, stuffed others in inconspicuous spaces and coiled and tied the rest.


Well, that's embarrassing enough so I won't show a picture of my two intake fans wire tied on.


----------



## Cotton

Old pics here


----------



## Blue Basher

My ghetto case made in less than 2 hours


----------



## nhudson1493

i went to walmart and picked up some cheap interior car led stick, they run off 12 volt to i just snipped the wires and wired them to one of the extra molex connectors. really bright blue lights in my case now.


----------



## ramenbuoy

All the stuff in this thread is so clean :/


Yes that is a motorcycle radiator for my water cooling loop, and yes those are garbage bags on my windows. and yes, most of my keyboards are missing keys (dunno if it shows up in the pictures).And unfotunately the sidewindow on my case is still 2 years in the making. The towels on my armrests are from the hospital when I got hit with a bottle. My condenser mic pop guard is some nylons and a plastic darning ring haha.


----------



## Hydroplane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> So ghetto I keep it in the garage full time to fold haha! Very old Pentium 4 HT salvaged from a thought to be dead Dell, only 1.25GB of DDR2 memory, and a very out of place GTX 570 with an Accelero cooler mounted, keeps it extra cool and quiet and is bringing in most of my PPD


That's awesome, I'm surprised a gpu that new will work with a CPU/mobo that old


----------



## andrews2547

I got tired of changing the batteries so yeah,



Took me 5 mins to do this


----------



## 420Assassin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I got tired of changing the batteries so yeah,
> 
> 
> 
> Took me 5 mins to do this


not bad still wireless get a usb to 2 prong plug can use from across room


----------



## Aleckazee

Not the greatest photo showing what I did but basically I removed the stock psu fan, threw in a 140mm noctua fan, couldn't hook it up to the original fan connector so I wired it out of the PSU, for some reason I cut the wires on the fan and a molex cable, twisted them together, electrical tape and VIOLA! a silent psu







(what I could have and should have done was just use a 3-pin to molex cable converter which I now have a crap load lying around and it wouldn't have been so dodgy... this was done a while back)



This psu is now serving my second build, chugging along nicely


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramenbuoy*
> 
> All the stuff in this thread is so clean :/
> 
> Yes that is a motorcycle radiator for my water cooling loop, and yes those are garbage bags on my windows. and yes, most of my keyboards are missing keys (dunno if it shows up in the pictures).And unfotunately the sidewindow on my case is still 2 years in the making. The towels on my armrests are from the hospital when I got hit with a bottle. My condenser mic pop guard is some nylons and a plastic darning ring haha.


I think the most ghetto thing in that picture is the camera ;p

Without your comments I would have thought it was just a messy computer room because you can't really tell what anything is


----------



## Aleckazee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr soft*
> 
> Water cooled Xbox
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are some great Ghetto mods in here, hanging graphics cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HereÂ´s mine , Spraypainted the DVD drive, and home made HD silencer.


dude...


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Well I have an update on my ghetto rigged gaming rig.
I did some crappy cable management and added a Phanteks PH-TC14PE 140mm fan, also the computer is now no longer on the wall...
Here is my previous setup... http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/700_100#post_14695398

Here is my new setup...


































Here is the old setup...

http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/700_100#post_14695398

Here is my ghetto rigged gaming rig... for some 3D and 5.1 Surround Goodness..









Enjoy!


































System Specs
GPU: Asus GTX590
CPU: Sandy i5 2500K
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage 8GB
MOBO: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
PSU: Antec High Current Pro 1200W
SSD: Intel 80GB
HDD: WD 1TB
WALL MOUNT: MYOPENPC BENCH Wide Wall

Accessories:
LCD: Asus VG236H 23" 2ms 1920x1080 120Hz 3D
Glasses: nVidia 3d Vision Kit
Keyboard: Rosewill RK-800G Black Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: Razer Orochi
Cans: Psyko Carbon 5.1


----------



## Bit_reaper

^ One Piece FTW









Here is my "ghetto rigging".



But I will admit that I didn't keep the stuff in that box for a very long time. Just had to put the rig some where while I modded my Tempest.


----------



## Paradigm84

@[ShowMe!] - That dog is awesome.

Also the only ghetto-rigging I've done is breaking open an external HDD to get the internal HDD and an adapter I can use for internal HDD's instead of having to buy a dock.


----------



## TheBadBull

@[ShowMe!] My first responses was "Oh, cool. It's chopper. :3" and "d'awww, cute dog on the desk







"

That rig looks awesome!


----------



## [ShowMe!]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bit_reaper*
> 
> ^ One Piece FTW


Yeah One Piece is good, I am on episode 207 or so...

That pic is from one of the episodes in Sky Island...


----------



## Bit_reaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> Yeah One Piece is good, I am on episode 207 or so...
> That pic is from one of the episodes in Sky Island...


Oh man you are still in for so much goodness. I just watched the 545's episode today







I wish I was back in the days when I didn't have to wait a week to watch the next episode


----------



## CalypsoRaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iinversion*
> 
> I disconnected pretty much everything from my computer the night before my new CPU/motherboard was suppose to come in.. and the next day UPS decided not to do anything with the package and it didn't come in.. so I had to temporarily put it back together.


My only question is why are you using the intel bracket for an AMD cpu/board?


----------



## darkphantom

ghetto in the sense that my cooler uses leftover fans and the case runs with a ghetto hole in the side of it







or sometimes no side panel...


----------



## WC_EEND

my current ghetto rigging until my 650D is dried out:


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[ShowMe!]*
> 
> Well I have an update on my ghetto rigged gaming rig.
> I did some crappy cable management and added a Phanteks PH-TC14PE 140mm fan, also the computer is now no longer on the wall...
> Here is my previous setup... http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/700_100#post_14695398
> Here is my new setup...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the old setup...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/700_100#post_14695398
> Here is my ghetto rigged gaming rig... for some 3D and 5.1 Surround Goodness..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> System Specs
> GPU: Asus GTX590
> CPU: Sandy i5 2500K
> RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage 8GB
> MOBO: ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z
> PSU: Antec High Current Pro 1200W
> SSD: Intel 80GB
> HDD: WD 1TB
> WALL MOUNT: MYOPENPC BENCH Wide Wall
> Accessories:
> LCD: Asus VG236H 23" 2ms 1920x1080 120Hz 3D
> Glasses: nVidia 3d Vision Kit
> Keyboard: Rosewill RK-800G Black Gaming Keyboard
> Mouse: Razer Orochi
> Cans: Psyko Carbon 5.1






haha, did you put your rig on the wall so your dog can sleep on the desk? Cute beagle by the way. Is that a copper nose?


----------



## Rowey




----------



## khlae

Oh boy do I have a list of these!

My old power mac g3 black edition! That's a lot of sharpie.



eeh, close enough. you can't see that side anyway.



Apple performa/quadra TV tuner mounted and installed in a beige g3! Apple might like proprietary, but at least its consistently proprietary. Also note the coaxial to RCA adapter I made from a phone chassis, my dads car radio, and a random RCA cable.



Motherboard back plate on my almost entirely aftermarket everything blue and white G3. I labeled it wrong.



I call this the "oh it doesn't need that air intake, ill just put these temp sensors there. Nowait, it does need that air intake. 3.5" floppy bay dryer sheet air vent go!"



So, this one day, I ran out of batteries in my calculator the day before class. queue AAA to AA adapter for a calculator built five hours before class with corroded battery acid damaged battery holders!


----------



## mironccr345




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Agreed!!!


----------



## mr one

fan from the UV light tunnel which ones we use at work to dry out a uv paint on printed stuff, so its like spinnin at 3500 or 4000rpm and its really loud ( but has a lot of air going thru)








btw there is a little screw driver


----------



## Roxborough

Aw, I don't have any pictures of my motherboard screw mounted Corsair H50 with home made shroud, the shroud consisted of an old black corsair fan, I used a dremel to power through splitting it in half, took AGES (obviously removed the fan first), then used some black silicone sealant, think it was Evostik I can't remember, anyway, then I just stuck it all together round the rad.

Looked pretty rad too. I've sold it now, along with the pictures that were on the HDD of it -_-. When I sold it, the guy said, I'll reformat it don't bother. I was like, umm, yeah, do it right away... I see him like 2 months down the line, and he has only just reformatted it.

ANYWAY, I don't have pictures so here's a video:


----------



## Shrak

Cross post from the Virginia Overclockers club thread;

My HTPC setup









AsRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Intel i3 2120
Samsung 8GB ( 4 x 2GB ) low profile ram
Hitachi 2.5" HDD
Corsair CX430


----------



## lofax

This!! but not mine though..


----------



## inVain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXSebaSXx*
> 
> Here's my ghetto rig on the side of the computer.
> - Beastly fan held down with rubber bands? Check.
> - Mess of wires all over the place. Check?
> - Home made fan controller because that fan would blow up the headers on any motherboard? Check.


luv that bread board to tame the beast








and the rubber band to hold the beast on place; pure genius









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swOrd_fish*
> 
> i've seen tons of router cooling mods around, and i found my router(Linksys WRT54G2) runs that hot either.... and so i did mine here;
> been searching with those junks laying around for a makeshift heatsink, these 'little wonders' grabbed my attention:
> my WRT54G2 router, yes those are staples...


man, this is awesome


----------



## yanks8981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> haha, did you put your rig on the wall so your dog can sleep on the desk? Cute beagle by the way. Is that a copper nose?


This is hilarious. I yell at my cats to stay off the table, and this guy hangs his rig on the wall to make room for a dog bed


----------



## carmaugh

My NAS Cube: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/4218304


----------



## skitzab1

my coffee table


----------



## skitzab1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmaugh*
> 
> My NAS Cube: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/4218304


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmaugh*
> 
> My NAS Cube: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/4218304


Wow, card board. How's the temps?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> my coffee table


wow, my kids would be all over that! lol, when are you going to put it back in your case?


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skitzab1*
> 
> my coffee table


making coffee with your loop?


----------



## skitzab1

ended up a bit bitter. the coffee did and the coolant after taste don't think that was good :O
lolz


----------



## skitzab1

back live







http://www.ustream.tv/channel/skitzab1-live-stream-modding


----------



## Super Coffee

I don't have a picture of it, but I used to use a BIC pen tube with tape on both ends to hold up my graphics card.


----------



## rgrwng

Step 1: home-made vice, made of a stack of rims and a milk crate:










Step 2: place fan in between both



















Step 3: apply pressure with shin/leg, holding the crate tight against the fan, and go to town with myself!


----------



## rgrwng

* Outdated Post *


----------



## DMT94

Okay I have two - not so awesome mods (not sure if qualifies for ghetto) but here they are

#1 - two 140mm Front intake fans on Tempest EVO using foam from a power supply packaging and a wire from an old molex wire to hold them together........





#2 - 80mm fan attached to a Athlon xp 1800+ heatsink............. using blu-tac - not to forget the cut out front grill for the two 80mm fans and the rear 120mm fan took form an old psu













More to come when i mod that old case as much as i can using only pliers and a screwdriver !


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

The entire thing has been more or less hacked together.


----------



## TheBadBull

Nice!
What temps do you get with that rad?
And I love the way you did the cables.


----------



## mironccr345

Whoa! ^^ That is pretty cool looking! What kind of radiator is that? Also, do you keep the rad out in the open like that?


----------



## axipher




----------



## dmckoy

gettho modding FTW!

was out of mollex on the PSU so used a floppy connector and made a fan power source out of it



fan taped on the GPU's fan and fan screwed into hard drive holles for extra fan powah !



all my case mod are with gettho style.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1169388/amateur-black-775-project

gona make a new case soon . as soon i get a bit of free time this summer


----------



## InitialDriveGTR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> Nice!
> What temps do you get with that rad?
> And I love the way you did the cables.


Thanks! Not a lot of people seem to like it for some reason though...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Whoa! ^^ That is pretty cool looking! What kind of radiator is that? Also, do you keep the rad out in the open like that?


I took the big radiator out of the loop because I wasn't getting any decent temperature drops from it, and it's from a Volvo AC system.


----------



## bobuy00

Ghetto mods... O.O Not sure if mine can be considered one since i didn't really do much to the hardware.. but still.. enjoy

This is my laptop.


I removed the access panel of my laptop and the protective mesh of my cooler.





Now runs 15-20 C cooler


----------



## Mattb2e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmckoy*
> 
> gettho modding FTW!
> was out of mollex on the PSU so used a floppy connector and made a fan power source out of it
> 
> fan taped on the GPU's fan and fan screwed into hard drive holles for extra fan powah !
> 
> all my case mod are with gettho style.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1169388/amateur-black-775-project
> gona make a new case soon . as soon i get a bit of free time this summer


For me its a toss up between the golden arch of ram sinks on your gpu, or the fan/hard disk mounting.

Edit: Just noticed the two zip ties holding the 80mm fan haha, nice


----------



## OverClocker55




----------



## Phelan

How about electrical tape sleeving? I shortened all my wires, heat shrunk the splices, and taped the wires together. I have Bitfenix extensions so I didn't want all the extra wire in my case.









Or how about a power supply help up by Zipties? I plan to build a bracket to hold this up eventually, but this will work for now.


----------



## CN Darkside

Serious ghetto action in my fileserver


----------



## subassy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InitialDriveGTR*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The entire thing has been more or less hacked together.


Apparently these images have exceeded the bandwidth. Guess i'll have to use my imagination for whatever they were. Unless you can "paint me a word picture"


----------



## SavantStrike

Oh man, finding this thread makes me ache for the old days. In the late 90s and early 2000's even the "pros" were ghetto rigging. Slapping things that didn't belong on other things was SOP. Everybody did ghetto mods, and I do mean everybody. Cases didn't have 120mm fans in those days and one had to walk uphill both ways you know.

One day I got bored and decided I wanted to mount a computer to the wall. I took an old Enlight AT (yeah you read right) case and went nuts on it with a reciprocating saw. I only wanted the 5.25 drive cage from it. Halfway through I figured out I could bend the bottom of case and just screw that into the wall, so I ended up with an L shaped piece of steel with drive bays riveted to it. I screwed the flat side into the wall with simple wood screws (yeah thats right, not even sheet metal). I just pushed on it to make the thing sit mostly straight on the wall, but then when I filled it up with drives it started to sag, so I reinforced it with zip ties. The mobo was a piece of junk (I think it was an MSI) out of a scrapped HP piece of junk that had a 300mhz K6-2 and 64MB of ram. That just got screwed straight to the wall. Cork with 1/8 masonite behind it for the win! The whole thing was used to play old games.

And yeah I know, pics or it didn't happen, but I assure you it happened. I don't have pics of a lot of awesome things I did







.

And who can forget plain wire ties (the wire kind, not _zip_ ties) to hold fans in places they didn't belong. Camera batteries are dead or I'd start posting some things that are still rigged.


----------



## BodenM

Just installed a H50 into a case with no 120mm fan holes


----------



## Tiharo

My rig waiting for my Silverstone FT02B-W to come.

5 hardrives and a ssd lol


----------



## a 6 foot rabbit

needed a case to house my upcoming micro 24/7 dedicated folding rig.

had to fit an H-100 in there somehow. amazing what can be done in between spraying coats of kandy and flake
It's a work in progress



the original case


----------



## Eaglake

Well I'm back with another Ghetto riggin shenanigans

Let's start with that my uncles PC got busted... bad capacitors. Basically dead MB.
So he wanted me to repair it. So I got an old AMD system which I wasn't using (DAMN I forgot to OC that bad boy ) Anyways I booted it and saw the chipset cooler wasn't working so....


----------



## JTHMfreak

You guys call these ghetto? Shame on you, THIS is ghetto, check out my old rig that was handed down to me, it was a Sony Vaio that I had to mod the hell out of. Check out the Stater Bros waffle box case side, or the ikea fan zip tied to the back, or the psu zip tied to the side.


----------



## Boinz




----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*


Oh yeah, I was ghettofantabulous back in the day


----------



## DMT94

Okay in this hot weather (UK) I had to think of something to cool me down, I have no fan at all because family is using them all, so I decided to pick an old Celeron rig out of the cupboard (no case, hdd or dvd) and i decided to make that my 'personal' cooling machine, what i did was this:

Break the buzzer speaker (beeps because of no booting media),
Wire up the power supply,
Find old NZXT fans,
Plug the fans in to the motherboard which is inside my drawer infront of me alongside the power supply,
then turn the PC on with a screwdriver so that all the fans turn on

Now i am not too hot and not too cold







i used blu-tac to hold the fans onto my keyboard and mousemat and they are silent, to me anyway


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMT94*
> 
> Okay in this hot weather (UK) I had to think of something to cool me down, I have no fan at all because family is using them all, so I decided to pick an old Celeron rig out of the cupboard (no case, hdd or dvd) and i decided to make that my 'personal' cooling machine, what i did was this:
> Break the buzzer speaker (beeps because of no booting media),
> Wire up the power supply,
> Find old NZXT fans,
> Plug the fans in to the motherboard which is inside my drawer infront of me alongside the power supply,
> then turn the PC on with a screwdriver so that all the fans turn on
> Now i am not too hot and not too cold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i used blu-tac to hold the fans onto my keyboard and mousemat and they are silent, to me anyway


HAHA, that's a creative way to stay cool. Do you have pics?


----------



## CrimReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phelan*
> 
> How about electrical tape sleeving? I shortened all my wires, heat shrunk the splices, and taped the wires together. I have Bitfenix extensions so I didn't want all the extra wire in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or how about a power supply help up by Zipties? I plan to build a bracket to hold this up eventually, but this will work for now.


That is a very cool mod sir. Very cool.

So I just got a crazy idea.

What if I built a PC in a drawer? It will slide in and out!


----------



## DMT94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> HAHA, that's a creative way to stay cool. Do you have pics?


Trying to get hold of a camera as my phone died and will post them on here asap


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMT94*
> 
> Okay in this hot weather (UK) I had to think of something to cool me down, I have no fan at all because family is using them all, so I decided to pick an old Celeron rig out of the cupboard (no case, hdd or dvd) and i decided to make that my 'personal' cooling machine, what i did was this:
> Break the buzzer speaker (beeps because of no booting media),
> Wire up the power supply,
> Find old NZXT fans,
> Plug the fans in to the motherboard which is inside my drawer infront of me alongside the power supply,
> then turn the PC on with a screwdriver so that all the fans turn on
> Now i am not too hot and not too cold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i used blu-tac to hold the fans onto my keyboard and mousemat and they are silent, to me anyway


Why don't you cut out the middle man and jump start the PSU? Paper clip in 24 pin plug with the green wire and any black wire. Then use molex adapters for the fans.


----------



## DMT94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Why don't you cut out the middle man and jump start the PSU? Paper clip in 24 pin plug with the green wire and any black wire. Then use molex adapters for the fans.


No electric shock from that ? and what pins does it go in ? I also have a psu tester I can use on it to jump start it, but then the problem lies with not having any molex connectors on the psu


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMT94*
> 
> No electric shock from that ? and what pins does it go in ? I also have a psu tester I can use on it to jump start it, but then the problem lies with not having any molex connectors on the psu


http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components/0_20


----------



## halcyon-twin

I propose an idea, the thread has been going for two years....I believe it's time for the Ghetto Rig Olympics. The real Olympics are over the next 2 weeks. I'd say get nominations of ghetto rigs and set up a poll. Once the poll has finished when the olympics finish, the winner should get a prize, or at least something in their PayPal for their Ghettofabulousness.


----------



## DMT94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/96712/how-to-jump-start-a-power-supply-psu-test-a-power-supply-and-components/0_20


Cheers for that


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halcyon-twin*
> 
> I propose an idea, the thread has been going for two years....I believe it's time for the Ghetto Rig Olympics. The real Olympics are over the next 2 weeks. I'd say get nominations of ghetto rigs and set up a poll. Once the poll has finished when the olympics finish, the winner should get a prize, or at least something in their PayPal for their Ghettofabulousness.


I like that idea. Maybe not the olympics theme but the idea of a ghetto mod contest.


----------



## Eaglake

My ghetto bike light



I'm using an old inverter which I got from scanner and cheapo 9V battery which you can clearly see isn't enough to power whole tube. All is held in place with trusty ducktape


----------



## Boinz

Duct tape, the magic that brings everything together.


----------



## TheRockMonsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> My ghetto bike light
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using an old inverter which I got from scanner and cheapo 9V battery which you can clearly see isn't enough to power whole tube. All is held in place with trusty ducktape


Haha!!! This past week I went to see my grandparents and while driving around their town I came across a guy riding his bike at night with that same blue cathode in that same exact place!!! I wonder if that was you!


----------



## Rickles

LOL at that bike cathode!!


----------



## cdawwgg

I made the res out of PVC but it keeps the dual DDCs with an XSPC top well fed and happy with no bubbles. Total cost (since I already had the cement and spraypaint) $15.00. I got the fittings at ACE Hardware as they are reasonable on fitting prices. The hose is Goodyear Sureline 1/2 ID NASCAR coolant tubing and is almost impossible to kink unless you really try on purpose. It will handle 180º bends easy but when you take it apart you have to cut the tubing as it is a tight fit and extremely rigid. It has kevlar inside. The black gaff tape makes it easier to grip the PVC when I need to take the cap off.


----------



## Rickles

Yesterday I modded my case with some tree trimmers... it was much faster than a dremel, but man is it ugly..


----------



## halcyon-twin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Yesterday I modded my case with some tree trimmers... it was much faster than a dremel, but man is it ugly..










I saw the words "mod with tree trimmer" and busted out laughing. Nice


----------



## Rickles

that steel blade melted through the top of my case like butter


----------



## qiqi1021

I got my X79 parts last Friday but don't have a 2011 cooler. Cue scouring the toolbox for M4 bolts. Luckily I had exactly 4, but as you can see...

 

The shorter bolt in the second pic is too long so has some random much larger nut as a spacer.


----------



## no_safe_HAVEN

I did this same thing with a H80 when i first got my X79!!!


----------



## AP01ARB3AR

I just read all 119 pages of this awesomeness.

This thread makes me want to suspend my perfectly good rig form the ceiling with bread ties and velcro and then cut all of the essential wires and rubber cement them back together.

Kudos to all of the geniuses in here though. I got some great ideas from you guys.


----------



## Cruz

Back of the cube there is a hole for a 140m fan but i need buy one xD
btw inside HDD and Power Supply

This is my second PC for my friends when they come to my house and want play something xD


----------



## Dr Acula

Bit of ghetto rigging holding up my gpu. Without the wire, the sag was immense.

/Old rig. All of this has been passed onto the GF. The DCII 7970's backplate really does well at supporting it, no need for that hideous wire any more


----------



## cdoublejj

Might I remind some of you motherboard boxes sometimes use metallic stickers and graphics.


----------



## InsideJob

A little ghetto added NB cooling fan










Build Log in sig


----------



## peterhejlejensen

GTX 460 SLI with mad custom cooling.
Ripped the old fan out of my PSU and replaced it with an inexpensive Arctic cooling fan. Only to find a plastic thingamagic that directs airflow.
Which I mounted on my GTX 460 heatsink with a rubber band and cable ties for mad cooling.

Picture of the new noiseless fan in the PSU

The cluster**** of 120mm fans which actually allows for a decent 13 % overclock on the GPUs at a very low noise level.
Notice the deadly sharp pointy bits on the fan hole.

My Zalman CNPS11x had a horrible vibrating fan which had to be replaced. But the mounting is totally custom and do not allow for DIMM 1 to be used at all.
The black fan on the right isn't really mounted by it serves a purpose.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterhejlejensen*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> GTX 460 SLI with mad custom cooling.
> Ripped the old fan out of my PSU and replaced it with an inexpensive Arctic cooling fan. Only to find a plastic thingamagic that directs airflow.
> Which I mounted on my GTX 460 heatsink with a rubber band and cable ties for mad cooling.
> 
> Picture of the new noiseless fan in the PSU
> 
> The cluster**** of 120mm fans which actually allows for a decent 13 % overclock on the GPUs at a very low noise level.
> Notice the deadly sharp pointy bits on the fan hole.
> 
> My Zalman CNPS11x had a horrible vibrating fan which had to be replaced. But the mounting is totally custom and do not allow for DIMM 1 to be used at all.
> 
> 
> The black fan on the right isn't really mounted by it serves a purpose.


Looks like an overkill and I think it doesn't cool that efectly because of fan placement
Anyways looks nice


----------



## peterhejlejensen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> Looks like an overkill and I think it doesn't cool that efectly because of fan placement
> Anyways looks nice


Thanks
I may seem so. But my chipset heats the top graphic card which have a rather bad heatsink (changed the thermal paste) and I run the fans a pretty low RPM


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> Yesterday I modded my case with some tree trimmers... it was much faster than a dremel, but man is it ugly..


HAHAHA that's the funnest thing I've read all night









My rigging may not be as ghetto as some of the stuff I've seen on here, but I think it's ghetto enough for a post









Firstly, the fan on my 5770 broke..
Problem solved by chucking the broken fan, wiring an 80mm to the card, then supergluing it to the card!
And the 6pin power cables for the card looked ugly, so a bit of home made sleeving (electrical tape) fixed it
















Pretty lights..








Heres the sleeving..









Also, like Rickles, I wanted to mod my case by putting a toggle switch on the top. (don't have a dremel either)
I cut the cables to the front IO and got rid of it (who needs it anyway ;D) then pulled out my trusty lighter and a sharp knife and proceeded melting/cutting away at it.








Little but rough haha

Lastly, my fan mounting.

a random plastic fan braket from a different case, some blue-tac and you have yourself a makeshift fan mount for your case


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterhejlejensen*
> 
> GTX 460 SLI with mad custom cooling.
> Ripped the old fan out of my PSU and replaced it with an inexpensive Arctic cooling fan. Only to find a plastic thingamagic that directs airflow.
> Which I mounted on my GTX 460 heatsink with a rubber band and cable ties for mad cooling.
> 
> Picture of the new noiseless fan in the PSU
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cluster**** of 120mm fans which actually allows for a decent 13 % overclock on the GPUs at a very low noise level.
> Notice the deadly sharp pointy bits on the fan hole.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Zalman CNPS11x had a horrible vibrating fan which had to be replaced. But the mounting is totally custom and do not allow for DIMM 1 to be used at all.
> The black fan on the right isn't really mounted by it serves a purpose.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That doesn't look all that bad. Maybe some zip-ties to secure it better?


----------



## famous1994

Zip tied an Arctic Cooling F9 fan for air intake.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *famous1994*
> 
> Zip tied an Arctic Cooling F9 fan for air intake.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've done something similar to that. Helps the air flow.


----------



## Schmuckley

This thread should be bumped to the top daily!








I learned how to zip-tie a cpu heatsink here







:


----------



## broadbandaddict

This is what remains of a server I built at work out of spare parts.



It had 7 drives down in the bottom rack and 4 stuffed into the optical drive area. I even made a nice cardboard shroud so the fan could pull air through the front and cool everything. I should have taken a picture before it go torn apart.









I think the most ghetto mod I ever did was in high school. My friend wanted LEDs in his case and Fred Meyer's had a sale on Christmas lights... we ended up stuffing two rolls into the case to light it and we drilled holes and glued the bulbs to the outer side panel. I'm amazed that thing didn't catch fire.


----------



## Mithrandir8

My friends and I put some spare parts together and formed our "zomputer." We were missing a power supply so we snagged one from another friends partially completed build.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mithrandir8*
> 
> My friends and I put some spare parts together and formed our "zomputer." We were missing a power supply so we snagged one from another friends partially completed build.


Are those the NZXT FZ fans? I'm having a hard time locating them nationally in Canada and don't want to pay shipping for international. But I also haven't seen much if anything about them from a consumer stand point.


----------



## Mithrandir8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Are those the NZXT FZ fans? I'm having a hard time locating them nationally in Canada and don't want to pay shipping for international. But I also haven't seen much if anything about them from a consumer stand point.


I don't exactly know which fans they were specifically, they came out of my friends NZXT tempest evo


----------



## InsideJob

Awe okay


----------



## Tomus

Old computer parts put togeather with new psu and second-hand baked 8800gt + uber custom hdd led. All this togeather hung in air under shelf.



[email protected] + AC Freezer ▓ baked 8800gt ▓ 4GB 800MHz cl4 ▓ P5N32-E SLI mobo


----------



## InsideJob

Dear god! It's wonderful!!


----------



## pulse0ne

Oh god I just spent like 3 hours going through this thread. It's excellent


----------



## OverK1LL

The day I got my 590. Couldn't wait to get her in; I ended up tossing parts together to get it up and running


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> Old computer parts put togeather with new psu and second-hand baked 8800gt + uber custom hdd led. All this togeather hung in air under shelf.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected] + AC Freezer ▓ baked 8800gt ▓ 4GB 800MHz cl4 ▓ P5N32-E SLI mobo


----------



## swOrd_fish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> Old computer parts put togeather with new psu and second-hand baked 8800gt + uber custom hdd led. All this togeather hung in air under shelf.
> 
> [email protected] + AC Freezer ▓ baked 8800gt ▓ 4GB 800MHz cl4 ▓ P5N32-E SLI mobo


the ledge hanger


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> Old computer parts put togeather with new psu and second-hand baked 8800gt + uber custom hdd led. All this togeather hung in air under shelf.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected] + AC Freezer ▓ baked 8800gt ▓ 4GB 800MHz cl4 ▓ P5N32-E SLI mobo


I'm curious to see how your set up looks like. Pics?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Built a mini rig for under 300 bucks. Bought the case last.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Built a mini rig for under 300 bucks. Bought the case last.


It looks like it's on the verge of falling down!


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*


Is that an IDE hard drive?


----------



## JTHMfreak

Love love love some of these


----------



## broadbandaddict

Figured I would post my latest side project at work. I've been wanting a HTPC but don't really want to fork over multiple hundreds of dollars (or even a hundred). I cobbled up a computer with these specs today:

Pentium D 2.8Ghz
2GB RAM DDR2 667
ATI X300 GPU
Realtek Gigabit NIC
300w PSU
80GB HDD
Box that it sits on nicely.








I've got a 5450 at home and couple gigs of faster RAM that might help it. I'm hoping that it'll decode Bluray rips but I won't get my hopes up.









Anyways the southbridge, northbridge and GPU were getting hot with no ventilation so I grabbed an expansion cover and stuck it in the heatsink to hold the fan above everything. Pic below.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShineGraphics*
> 
> Is that an IDE hard drive?


yep, that's Project Michelle in my sig, entire rig was built for just above 300 (310 bucks)


----------



## ShineGraphics

Nice








How did you run SATA on an IDE drive? Do you have a converter or something?


----------



## blooder11181

yes
there are ide to sata converter for sale a long time ago.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShineGraphics*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How did you run SATA on an IDE drive? Do you have a converter or something?


yep, it was 26 bucks for the adapter, or 110 for a 500gb sata drive.


----------



## stickg1

Well after looking through the thread mine isn't as awesome as some of yours. But I just got done modding my case and in hind sight I wish I had gone inverted ATX to get direct airflow through my rad. So I took out my Optical drive and zip-tied a 120mm fan in the 3 5.25" bays to get some more airflow, check her out!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> Old computer parts put togeather with new psu and second-hand baked 8800gt + uber custom hdd led. All this togeather hung in air under shelf.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected] + AC Freezer ▓ baked 8800gt ▓ 4GB 800MHz cl4 ▓ P5N32-E SLI mobo


Now that, is just plain awesome. Kind of like hanging art LOL


----------



## psarandis

Pc built for my father.
Athlon xp 1800+
512 ram
8400 gs
a7v8x mb
monitor thrown away by an internet cafe
2x40gb hdd
No name psu I found somewhere I cannot remember
mother's coffee table
Ash tray and tobacco.


----------



## Tomus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected] + AC Freezer ▓ baked 8800gt ▓ 4GB 800MHz cl4 ▓ P5N32-E SLI mobo


It is with deep sadness that i announce that our dear Shelf Hanger has fallen into coma after extensive overclocking.
He will need to undergo motherboard transplantation and hopefully he will recover afterwards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I'm curious to see how your set up looks like. Pics?


My command center looks like this:




If you ment Shelf Hanger, it was just old 19" 4:3 monitor with 5€ keyboard, 10€ mouse and mouse pad.


----------



## ShineGraphics

This isn't my rig, but I saw this on the Thermaltake Technology Inc facebook page...
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151041508795895&set=a.58632520894.81373.24947585894&type=1&theater



PSU Box Case Rig Thing...


----------



## eskamobob1

I saw this not too long ago... It's awesome







... Love getto rigged pcs


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> It is with deep sadness that i announce that our dear Shelf Hanger has fallen into coma after extensive overclocking.
> He will need to undergo motherboard transplantation and hopefully he will recover afterwards.
> My command center looks like this:
> 
> 
> If you ment Shelf Hanger, it was just old 19" 4:3 monitor with 5€ keyboard, 10€ mouse and mouse pad.





Thanks for the pics.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShineGraphics*
> 
> This isn't my rig, but I saw this on the Thermaltake Technology Inc facebook page...
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151041508795895&set=a.58632520894.81373.24947585894&type=1&theater
> 
> PSU Box Case Rig Thing...





Box rig FTW.









Here's my ghetto set up just for the foldathon.


----------



## jellybeans69

Few of my old ghetto rigz, some of them dated back in 2006, laughing my ass off atm going through old pics









2006


Several photos of 2007 rigs/benches with those rigs







Might see Delta 120mmx38mm fan in those i remember i cut my fingers with it few times
















Quad-Fans using superglue mod


2008


2010


2011


My current rig is only a little bit ghetto as power supply doesnt fit in my Lian Li matx case due to CM Evo so it's outside of it. Comparing to all of my old ones it's nothing


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Few of my old ghetto rigz, some of them dated back in 2006, laughing my ass off atm going through old pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: PICZ
> 
> 
> 
> 2006
> 
> Several photos of 2007 rigs/benches with those rigs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might see Delta 120mmx38mm fan in those i remember i cut my fingers with it few times
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quad-Fans using superglue mod
> 
> 2008
> 
> 2010
> 
> 2011
> 
> 
> 
> My current rig is only a little bit ghetto as power supply doesnt fit in my Lian Li matx case due to CM Evo so it's outside of it. Comparing to all of my old ones it's nothing


So much ghetto


----------



## D3boy510

Yay I'm not alone in the "I run a rig out of a old box" club. Also most of this stuff is awesome


----------



## Speshy

Does this count?










































Extra points for the use of duct tape and non-matching rubber bands surely?


----------



## ShineGraphics

Nice work, rubber bands FTW








What are your temps like with those fans running?


----------



## Speshy

Thank you sir









Alas, temps were the same more or less with the OC and it was a hell of a lot louder








After that, I picked up an aftermarket cooler, semi-ghetto'd it and ended up dropping 17°C off the GPU, 19°C off VRM1 and 13°C off VRM2









The long winded version can be found in my sig if that's your kind of tale








Out of the box, fit n forget is so overrated lol


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speshy*
> 
> Does this count?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Extra points for the use of duct tape and non-matching rubber bands surely?


not getto enough... shoulda used shoe lace


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Post pics in a bit. Finally updated all the hardware in my sig rig, and stuck all the old parts into a build for my parents, except for a few of course.


----------



## Speshy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> not getto enough... shoulda used shoe lace
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Winner!


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speshy*
> 
> Winner!


ty







... i tried for MOTM, but i didnt get any votes


----------



## famous1994

How's this for ghetto? It's going in a fish tank filled with mineral oil this weekend for some experiments.


----------



## eskamobob1

thats prity legit actualy


----------



## Schmuckley

I have panaflos zip-tied to the sink on my gfx card


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schmuckley*
> 
> I have panaflos zip-tied to the sink on my gfx card


I have a rad on my parents crappy water cooling system for their new comp I built out of my old parts zip-tied to the side panel case fan.

Zip ties are the best.


----------



## Photograph

I needed some cheap low-profile heatsinks for the memory chips underneath the stock GTX 460 cooler, so I used some thermal adhesive and attached the cheapest copper heatsinks I could find


----------



## eskamobob1

nice


----------



## swOrd_fish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Photograph*
> 
> I needed some cheap low-profile heatsinks for the memory chips underneath the stock GTX 460 cooler, so I used some thermal adhesive and attached the cheapest copper heatsinks I could find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


now that's an actual "2 cents" of idea, nice!


----------



## Master__Shake

server racks are crazy expensive for what they are.

so i built this old girl in about 3 hours, just me my mig welder and my steel chop saw and some old bed frames.

couple of coats of tremclad later we were ready to rack


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *famous1994*
> 
> How's this for ghetto? It's going in a fish tank filled with mineral oil this weekend for some experiments.


Don't put the hard drive or DVD drive into the oil.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> server racks are crazy expensive for what they are.
> so i built this old girl in about 3 hours, just me my mig welder and my steel chop saw and some old bed frames.
> couple of coats of tremclad later we were ready to rack


I approve. How are you holding those servers up?


----------



## Bdebrooke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I approve. How are you holding those servers up?


Sheer Force OF will


----------



## tuffy12345

Loved looking through this thread!


----------



## Master__Shake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdebrooke*
> 
> Sheer Force OF will


Lol
Pretty much. I do have planes to mount those cases on rails but for now a few nuts and bolts.


----------



## BritishBob

Nothing too major, but it's holding up my 1440p screen.

Back-story-
I have a shimian lite, and the stand on it is average at best. Brought a new stand on ebay and the screws that go into the back of the screen are about 2mm too long. Went down to the local hardware store. Got me some M4 bolts and nuts. Figured I could use the bolts as spaces. Turns out the provided screws have no threads near the head I also cannot get the spacers off. I come up with this genius idea and it works. It's not holding my £240 scree up. I might add some superglue to the nuts, but they seem ok.


----------



## Alatar




----------



## jach11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*


Lol nice


----------



## ForNever

FreeNas server. Best I could come up with for our department's backup server at work. Had to use an intel heatsink on an amd-350 with arctic silver thermal adhesive, I don't even know where I got the fan for it. I believe I stole it off of some piece of crap all in one with a P4. The north and southbridge was overheating causing lock-up's for a while when transferring a lot to the server, got mad and threw a fan over them. Rock solid since. If ppl only knew where their stuff was being backed up at, maybe they would actually give me a budget for it lol.


----------



## Boyd

Back in 2009 when i had no case running a dual core pentium with 512GB ram lol


----------



## ceaze one

Mounted my hard drive on my psu today:

I was bored today so I opened up my spare/htpc/css rig looking for different ways to make it more silent. One of the things that always bothered me was the noise from the hdd, its the loudest part of my set up.... There's nothing wrong with the hdd which would cause it to make any abnormal noises, I'm just a silent freak. It didn't help that it was mounted right in front of my case and 2 feet away from my ears so I decided to mount it somewhere else where the noise from it would be deadened.

I bought a 3.5 to 5.25 mounting kit thinking that since there are no fan holes in the ODD bays it would silence the hdd,but mounting it there just made it worse lol. So i decided to mount it as far back in my case as I could. I used 2 zip ties to attach it to the fan grille of my psu and they work perfectly... the hdd doesn't even budge! Not only does this quiet down my system a good amount, but mounting the hdd there makes it run about 6 or 7 degrees cooler =D

Simple/effective/cheap mods make me happy

ps: don't mind the rats nest, this is not my main rig, the wires don't block air flow to any of the components, and I don't have a side window.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Manufactured standoffs to fit larger PSU in case.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> 
> Manufactured standoffs to fit larger PSU in case.


That's awesome!


----------



## axipher

New cooler came in today:


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> 
> Manufactured standoffs to fit larger PSU in case.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> That's awesome!
Click to expand...

Gotta say I agree. That is awesome.


----------



## Nenkitsune

Built this years ago because I kept getting cut up by my ****ty old case

http://www.overclock.net/t/392861/the-box

I would post pics but no camera right now, but currently I have a 60mm fan zip tied to the inside of my case to blow air onto my vga heatsinks i put on my mosfets, zip tied my fan to the heatsink, and zip tied the fan controller into the drive bay (because my case uses tool-less brackets and they're lost)

also, the fan controller only uses molex plugs, so i clipped the wires to every fan I hooked up to it, and ripped the molex connectors off the fan controller, and twisted/electrical taped them all together.

But nothing will beat "the box"

I don't think I'd ever attempt that again.


----------



## Tiharo

Just a modded Nvidia 7300GS with a stock AMD cooler with zipties :3


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Lol. What case is that?


----------



## Tiharo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Lol. What case is that?


SilverStone Fortress TF02-BW, Amazing case, although a bit cramped. But cooling performance is amazing. I added two CoolerMaster 230mm fans to the top for added cooling potential and cause it looks pretty dope lol


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiharo*
> 
> SilverStone Fortress TF02-BW, Amazing case, although a bit cramped. But cooling performance is amazing. I added two CoolerMaster 230mm fans to the top for added cooling potential and cause it looks pretty dope lol


That's what I thought, it just seemed too big. I guess it's just the picture.


----------



## Tiharo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That's what I thought, it just seemed too big. I guess it's just the picture.


Oh its a BIG case, thats for sure


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiharo*
> 
> Oh its a BIG case, thats for sure


lol... its sad when i have started to consider my case small... i mean come on... its got like 6 cubic feet of space in side it


----------



## kalosbas

Finally my work is done! Fitting all the **** you can imagine in a Coolermaster 430 elite! (okay not everything, but all the good stuff adn everyone with a cm 430 elite will understand my troubles) My system specs and additions are:
i5-760 2.8 GHz
Gigabyte GTX-580
Corsair XMS-3 4 x 2 GB RAM
1 x Seagate Barracuda 1 TB
1 x Seagate Barracuda 500 GB
Asus P7H55-M/USB 3
Coolermaster GX-650W
Scythe 8 fan controller
radiator fans: 2 x Gentle typhoons 1850rpm
Rear fan : Gelid silent 12 1000rpm
front fan : the fan that came with the case

For cpu: Noctua NH-D14
For gpu: Danger Den full water block
XSPC RX240 radiator
XSPC Dual Bay reservoir for D5 with Swiftech MCP655 pump
XSPC blu UV tubing
Sharkoon UV cathode

In order to fit everything in i had to go external mount for the RX240. The dual top fan holes of the 430 were too far apart for the rad so i had to drill a hole for the fan and fan screws closer to each other. i also removed the fan mesh for better airflow. Take care when drilling holes with hole saws, it leaves residue and pointy stuff that can cut your fingers like razors. I glued a u-channel on the edges from mnpctech to avoid buying an endless supply of band aids and having a blood themed case.
I drilled two holes for the tubing to connect to the rad, a hole next to it for the wires of two extra pull fans if needed, and three more holes for power button, cathode light button and temp screen. the power button and temp screen were for the hell of it
I installed everything, performed a 12 hour leak test with everything off, another 4 hours with full usage to the GPU to warm the water and see if the fittings loosen or anything.
For anyone wondering why the GPU and not the CPU alone or the CPU also in the loop, i bought the Noctua cooler not long ago and im very satisfied with it, with intel burn test and overclocked at 3.6 at the time it didnt even reach 60 degrees celcius, and i didnt want to get a new cpu block (the money was too tight) just yet. maybe in the next year or so. However my 580 reached 88 celcius and since i live in a warm country (Cyprus for the record) i decided to take a dive in wc. Now the card reached 48!!! degrees on full load.
The case doesn't have any kind of cable management except for a bit of space behind the hdd rack so i crammed everything in there and tried to have a clean look of the tubing and stuff.


----------



## Mithrandir8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> Built this years ago because I kept getting cut up by my ****ty old case
> http://www.overclock.net/t/392861/the-box
> I would post pics but no camera right now, but currently I have a 60mm fan zip tied to the inside of my case to blow air onto my vga heatsinks i put on my mosfets, zip tied my fan to the heatsink, and zip tied the fan controller into the drive bay (because my case uses tool-less brackets and they're lost)
> also, the fan controller only uses molex plugs, so i clipped the wires to every fan I hooked up to it, and ripped the molex connectors off the fan controller, and twisted/electrical taped them all together.
> But nothing will beat "the box"
> I don't think I'd ever attempt that again.


Lol, I almost skipped over this post but I'm glad I didn't. That is one fantastic ghetto rig. It's not just that you put everything in a box but that you still attached everything you would normally see on the exterior of a case. I especially loved the meat thermometer


----------



## eskamobob1

it looks to clean to be ghetto







.. lol... jk... but im not gunna lie, at first i thought u were watercooling your CPU cooler


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Not easily viewable ghetto:


Cpu cooler is ziptied on.
Missing most of the mobo standoffs
Some screws are not the correct sise and are just kinda barely holding pci stuff on.
Most fans are controlled by fan controllers that are all daisy chained to the same molex.
The rad for the gpu was later zip-tied on to the side case fan.


----------



## kalosbas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> it looks to clean to be ghetto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. lol... jk... but im not gunna lie, at first i thought u were watercooling your CPU cooler


hehe yeah after going through a few pages of this thread and passing a rather worrying cardbox case mod that would make even Firemarshall Bill flinch, i thing my mod is not that ghetto if i wrapped the cpu cooler watertight with duct tape and runned water through it would it be ghetto??


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalosbas*
> 
> hehe yeah after going through a few pages of this thread and passing a rather worrying cardbox case mod that would make even Firemarshall Bill flinch, i thing my mod is not that ghetto if i wrapped the cpu cooler watertight with duct tape and runned water through it would it be ghetto??


you bet it would... it would even get the handy man seal of aproval


----------



## svtfmook

mine's not so much ghetto as it is just plain dangerous, but, i have 2 computers, 1 42" plasma, all my peripherals, a HT system, plugged into 1 outlet.... on an old knob and tube wiring setup.

/fire


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> mine's not so much ghetto as it is just plain dangerous, but, i have 2 computers, 1 42" plasma, all my peripherals, a HT system, plugged into 1 outlet.... on an old knob and tube wiring setup.
> /fire


Pictures! We need pictures!


----------



## Willi

all that ghetto... I should have taken a few pics of my ghettofied old Proliant server case that should have become a casemod...


----------



## m1919

I like old hardware, particularly the old SMP boards, so I jumped at the chance to grab an Asus XG-DLS. Probably one of the best Slot-2 Xeon boards ever made. There was only one problem when I bought the board. It had no retention brackets for the processors. The board sat for a while, until I got lucky and was able to get my hands on a pair of brackets from an old Gateway quad Xeon server, along with a very nice Slot-1/Slot-2 board.

Had to separate the brackets, then sand down all the crap leftover from the connecting pieces. I had some molded shelving lying around that was built from the same plastic as the brackets. I cut them up and built new mounting surfaces to match the board's mounting holes, secured them to the brackets using JB Weld. The board is originally supposed to have a large backplate to mount the brackets to, but this was also missing from mine, so I fabricated new backplates made from the same material as the new mounting surfaces. So far the ghettomod has held up and the brackets are rock solid. JB Weld FTW.

Here's the board with proper brackets and backplate, photos courtesy of a fellow retro-hardware enthusiast on VOGONs who has the same board.







Had to rework a pair of these:



Into this:


----------



## BritishBob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1919*
> 
> I like old hardware, particularly the old SMP boards, so I jumped at the chance to grab an Asus XG-DLS. Probably one of the best Slot-2 Xeon boards ever made. There was only one problem when I bought the board. It had no retention brackets for the processors. The board sat for a while, until I got lucky and was able to get my hands on a pair of brackets from an old Gateway quad Xeon server, along with a very nice Slot-1/Slot-2 board.
> Had to separate the brackets, then sand down all the crap leftover from the connecting pieces. I had some molded shelving lying around that was built from the same plastic as the brackets. I cut them up and built new mounting surfaces to match the board's mounting holes, secured them to the brackets using JB Weld. The board is originally supposed to have a large backplate to mount the brackets to, but this was also missing from mine, so I fabricated new backplates made from the same material as the new mounting surfaces. So far the ghettomod has held up and the brackets are rock solid. JB Weld FTW.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the board with proper brackets and backplate, photos courtesy of a fellow retro-hardware enthusiast on VOGONs who has the same board.
> 
> 
> 
> Had to rework a pair of these:
> 
> Into this:


That's a decent looking case and nice job.


----------



## Alatar

That is one epic board. Gotta love the old stuff


----------



## barkinos98

the moment i find a silent fan, you guys can see a ghetto mod for a HD4650, amd cooler and a psu







wish they sell noctuas here :sadsmile


----------



## inVain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1919*
> 
> Into this:


OMG...
did you recapped the mobo too?

too neat to be a ghetto, I'd rather call it a mod









nice job, man!!!


----------



## m1919

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inVain*
> 
> OMG...
> did you recapped the mobo too?
> too neat to be a ghetto, I'd rather call it a mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice job, man!!!


Nah, the board didn't require recapping. Pretty sure the board was probably never used until I got it.


----------



## frankth3frizz

Ghetto fan replacement for my work PC


----------



## nemal101

Still had this photo on my Facebook. My PC from about four years ago haha!


----------



## KillThePancake

Here's my pc froma few months ago. Dual 200 watt power supplies, 6 hard drives, (not shown) and old P4 HP case, painted black, Asus A8N-E, Athlon 64. It's now been relaced with a dual core Dell. (Saving to build a new one







)

I've also included my ghetto-tastic HP Pavillion from like '99 I think? 512mb of RAM, An old Celeron (2.6ghz). The hard drive was always blazing hot, so I used some tape, old Xbox 360 fans, and an empty Molex connector xD. Also added a fan under that shroud to make it cooler. I got the processor up to 60* C!


----------



## Ecstacy

I'll have to post my HTPC on here soon.









It's in an old eMachine's case (Pentium D era) with a Sempron 140 undervolted and overclocked to 3.1 Ghz, 2 GB DDR2 memory overclocked to 920 Mhz @ CAS 5, an ASRock 760G motherboard, a 160GB WD Caviar Blue for the OS, a 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 for media, an old Antec PSU because my Earthwatts 380W died, and a X1650. I have the stock fan on the X1650 disconnected because it sounds like a leaf blower so I have a 120mm fan taped to the side to keep it from overheating (still gets really hot, but it's been running okay for a few months now). I have to use the X1650 because my old 32" CRT TV only supports component or S-Video. The TV is older than I am. xD


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KillThePancake*
> 
> Here's my pc froma few months ago. Dual 200 watt power supplies, 6 hard drives, (not shown) and old P4 HP case, painted black, Asus A8N-E, Athlon 64. It's now been relaced with a dual core Dell. (Saving to build a new one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I've also included my ghetto-tastic HP Pavillion from like '99 I think? 512mb of RAM, An old Celeron (2.6ghz). The hard drive was always blazing hot, so I used some tape, old Xbox 360 fans, and an empty Molex connector xD. Also added a fan under that shroud to make it cooler. I got the processor up to 60* C!





That Ninja Turtle Sticker, it looks vintage.


----------



## nleksan

Man, I am getting so much inspiration from this thread!

I am looking to bring back to life a number of machines, but with the exception of one (for use as a HTPC/Home-Server), for overclocking the bajeezus out of, hopefully setting at least one record for whatever component!

Here's what I have to revive:
1) AMD FX-51 + Asus SK8V + ATI X800XT-PE + 1GB Corsair XMS3200RE-TWINX2 + misc HDD's
2) AMD Athlon64 X2 4600 + Asus-built HP MB + 2GB DDR2 (not sure if 667 or 800) + Sapphire X1600 Pro 512MB + misc
3) Intel Pentium4 2.8C + Dell Socket775 MB + 4x512MB DDR2-533 + Sparkle GeForce 6600GT + misc
4) Intel Pentium4 (LGA775, not sure of speed) + Abit NT7 + 3GB DDR2 + Radeon 9600SE + Intel NIC

Then I have an Intel Core2Duo E8600 that is sitting in a Dell Optiplex 980 that I got, but which won't work unless connected to its original network, so I figured I'd be better off just gutting it for the "goods" and finding something to do with the rest. From what I hear, the E8600 can push crazy high clocks on air, and I may even water-cool it as I have so much extra stuff left over from my most recent build, so I want to push it to see what it can do. However, this is what will be going into the HTPC/Home Server as it is plenty fast for anything I would need in that application, and it's at the age where it's not too old and not too new, it's "juuuuust right"







.
There was also 8GB (4x2GB) of DDR2-800 4-4-4-12 Kingston RAM inside, a Western Digital Caviar Blue 320GB SATA300, a very nice LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W, and an unusual Radeon 3450HD (of which I now have 2....).

A few other parts I will be using to help with some of these overclocks:


Spoiler: Partial List of Extra Stuff for Use in this Endeavor:



- 3GB total (2x512MB + 2x1GB) of DDR400 2-2-2-4 RAM
- 2GB OCZ Platinum DDR2-866 4-4-4-11 kit that has NEVER been used (2x1GB)
- 4GB Samsung 1.35v DDR3-1333/1600 "wonderam" (2x2GB, will do DDR3-2000 8-9-8-23 1.4125v and DDR3-2666 10-12-11-34 1.525v but I have yet to get the sub-timings fully stable for the latter)
....
- about 4-5 Dozen miscellaneous Fans, from 40x10mm to 140x25mm, mostly 80x25mm/92x25mm and 120x25mm though... (Various Delta/Panaflo 120x38 and 92x38 fans pulled from Dell's that push >150cfm but I need to change the pin-out on, a number of Scythe Slipstream and Kaze fans ranging 63-110cfm ratings, a dozen or more Thermaltake 80x25 2800-3800rpm adj fans pushing 28-37cfm+, another dozen Tt 92x25 2600-3500rpm fans that push up to 65cfm as well as a few Vantec Tornado's in both 80x38 and 92x38 sizes, Cooler Master 80x25 3600rpm 34.1cfm fans, Masscool 80x25 3000rpm 39cfm fans, unbranded 80mm fans, Delta 40x10/40x15/60x10/60x15/etc fans pushing anywhere from 2.5cfm to 18cfm, some Kingwin 120x25 800-1400rpm fans pushing 45-62cfm, a few Scythe Ultra-Kaze 3000rpm 120x38 fans at 130cfm, NZXT FN140-RB 140x25 1000rpm 68cfm fans, and plenty more.....)
- Tons of heatsinks, from individual RAM-sinks and VRM-sinks no bigger than 10x10x3 to NB/SB heatsinks around 30x30-to-75x75, and tons of old CPU HSF's from OEM's like Dell/HP/Toshiba/Compaq (one Dell heatsink is a single piece of surprisingly well-finished aluminum that has 138 rows of fins, which vary from 0.25mm to 2.5mm thick, and weighs a total of 26.425 ounces! The rest are mostly typical cheap OEM stuff, but which can be cut very easily into smaller heatsinks)
- Large amounts of ducting (inc: 3/4", 1", 1.25"/1.5"/1.75", 2"/2.5", 3"/3.5", 4"/4.5", and up to 12" diameter), plenty of high-quality copper pipes and plates (inc: a single tube 180cm long with OD/ID of 19mm/12.7mm and made of 99.8% copper, and also 4x sheets all around 300x600mm with thicknesses of 2.5mm, 5mm, 8mm, and 12.7mm.... problem is I don't have access to a lathe or CNC)
- 2x "old" refrigerators, 4x "old" freezers (I am not a hoarder, lol; one is a top-bottom fridge/freezer at my GF's and another is a deep-freezer at her house; the rest are a "dorm fridge" that has a vastly overpowered cooler, and 2 dorm-room mini-freezers [about 2' tall, 2' wide, 2.5' deep), a "broken" window-AC unit that works just fine but whose control panel is busted
- access to every single tool you can imagine up to a CNC machine or lathe (including a full set of air-tools, a shop-type compressor with up to 8,000psi and 5x extra storage tanks, a drill press, 2x table saws, jig-saws, 2x Dremel tools, four power drills, and more), with plenty of hardware to go with
- Plenty of painting materials, raw metal (aluminum) bars and plates that I've been collecting for use in building my own Tech-Bench, and way more than I could even begin to get into



I am just looking for some ideas as to how best to use what I have to cool these old rigs as best as possible (phase change is okay for a benchmark, but I also want to push for the highest-possible 24/7 OC so that means air cooling (MAYBE water). Also, if anyone has some "old" parts that would be useful, please PM me with a price! I am in need of, above all, Motherboards to replace the crappy Dell/HP ones that are locked down tighter than an inappropriate pun...
Here's a short list:


Spoiler: Warning: I Want To Give You Money For Stuff!



- Super-Nice X38/X48 Motherboard with fantastic OC'ing capabilities for my E8600 (not sure which chipset it even uses, as I "skipped" the whole C2D/C2Q gen)
- a good AM2/AM2+ board for the A64 X2 4600+
- DDR-400/466/500 and DDR2-800/1033/1066 RAM
- decent Hard Drives using E-IDE/PATA or SATA150/300
- any "old" AGP and/or PCIe GPU's, from X800XT/7950GTX up through 5870HD/GTX480 (X850XT AGP, X1650XT AGP, 7850GT AGP, 8800GTX 512-1024 PCIe, 8800GTS 512 [G92] and/or 8800GTS 640 [G80], 9800GT/GTX/GTX+, X1900XT/X1950XT/XTX PCI or AGP, X1800XT PCIe or AGP, Radeon 3750-3870HD, GeForce GTS250-GTX295, Radeon 4850/4870HD, GeForce GTX460 216, Radeon 5770HD, Radeon 5830/5850/5870HD would all be ideal cards)
- RAID Controller Cards in PCI-e or possibly PCI (SAS would be ideal as I don't have SCSI readily available)
- SAS Hard Drives such as former-server-drives or the like, of any capacity (from the ~36GB minimum to the 600GB maximum, doesn't matter)
- Hardware Sound Cards (PCI and PCI-Express; just cheap whatever, as long as it is truly 100% hardware sound) to reduce CPU overhead
- Old computer cases, doesn't matter if beaten up, broken, whatever...
- Misc anything that you might have that is collecting dust and may in any possible way help me out with this endeavor!!!



So, if anyone has ANY ideas for me, or anything they'd like to get rid of (or trade/swap for something; I LOVE trading, so PLEASE PM me!!!!), that could help me to Go back in Time to try and set Air/Water/Phase-Change(?) clock-speed records on 5-8yr old processors and GPU's, please help me out!

I will post some pics of the goodies later, but I appreciate it!

(FYI, I am definitely going to be doing this as "ghetto" as possible... the less cash outlay, the better, as I want to see just how little money I can spend to break into the record books!)


----------



## BritishBob

Damn... you have a habit of posting walls of text don't you... :/


----------



## KillThePancake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That Ninja Turtle Sticker, it looks vintage.


It is, I have a bunch of them. Old X-Mean ones too. Waste of a good sticker on that case.


----------



## Gawdz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *to_the_zenith*
> 
> I got out the drill, hacksaw and pliers to my GTX260 and attached a 70mm CPU fan to a 60mm CPU shroud (sticky tape to fill in the gaps), screwed that into HS fins and slapped some silicone around it to fill in the rest of the gaps.
> 
> It's not ghetto, it's improvisation


Shoulda had the fan exhausting air.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gawdz*
> 
> Shoulda had the fan exhausting air.


I disagree, hot air rises and with the GPU orientation, not sure where the hot air would go, better to have it conventionally exit out the back exhaust as normal.


----------



## crashdummy35

I love this thread


----------



## Gawdz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> I disagree, hot air rises and with the GPU orientation, not sure where the hot air would go, better to have it conventionally exit out the back exhaust as normal.


Good point made sir, Now thinking about it having that fan exhausting may of just put the air back into the card from the other fan...


----------



## brodieboy143

There are some absolute gems in the "Mod Gallery" section of the OP on this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1317399/gpu-geforce-210-64-bit-competition/


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BritishBob*
> 
> Damn... you have a habit of posting walls of text don't you... :/


I used spoiler tags....??? And yes, I tend to be rather _verbose_, but in this case, a lot of the prior post was simply copied-and-pasted from a WordPad document I have that has a list of all the misc computer parts I have so that I can keep track of them. I did alter the Copied&pasted stuff, but probably 2/3rds of that post was pre-written.


----------



## Eaglake

Not mine (from GPU GeForce 210 64-bit competition)
This deserves an spotlight 
Sticking a NH-D14 onto a GPU is truly genius and should be awarded with a medal of some sort. I just LOVE IT


----------



## Onions

my 210 from the competition


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1919*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have the same case, just got it from my girlfriend's brother from a build he did years ago. I have been looking to work it into something sweet, possibly a home media server because of the massive amounts of drive bays (I think each of the 3 cages holds up to 4 3.5" drives, and then add a 3x5.25-to-4x3.5/8x2.5 bay cage), enough for 12-15 3.5" HDD's or 9-12x3.5" + 6-9x2.5" drives! Unfortunately, the case airflow, while better than most all cases from that time period, still kinda sucks, so I am going to have to get out the Dremel and make some bottom intakes and top exhaust.

Anyway, awesome to see the same case, and I love your "ghetto modding", if it can even be called that!


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> Not mine (from GPU GeForce 210 64-bit competition)
> This deserves an spotlight
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sticking a NH-D14 onto a GPU is truly genius and should be awarded with a medal of some sort. I just LOVE IT


To be fair, in that pic its more like sticking a GPU onto the NH-D14 lol. Either way it's fantastic and somewhat inspiring


----------



## inVain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> Not mine (from GPU GeForce 210 64-bit competition)
> This deserves an spotlight
> Sticking a NH-D14 onto a GPU is truly genius and should be awarded with a medal of some sort. I just LOVE IT


this is


----------



## Gawdz

Haha I did the same thing with my Xbox 360 fans... Just cable tied it too a old pc, really load though

Edit: Mobile Version can't quote :S


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

IS THIS enough to call Ghetto XD?
CPU AIR FUNNEL


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> IS THIS enough to call Ghetto XD?
> CPU AIR FUNNEL


nah... needs to be made of a newegg box







... lol, jk... looking very nice


----------



## Setaptenet

how bout this....

and i know it dosent look too bad but it cant... my brain just goes crazy if something dosent look good on my rig...
btw this is not my main rig anymore got a new one









OHH almost forgot...
dunno if you can see in the picture but the mobo is liftde rom the table by 4 lego blocks XDD


----------



## inVain

does this count as a ghetto?



angled alumunium bars as a hdd table, left the light room out, right with the light on
will mount it inside my case, ASAP


----------



## TLHarrell

Thought this was pretty ghetto... using K'Nex for hanging some fans in my junker case.


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> Thought this was pretty ghetto... using K'Nex for hanging some fans in my junker case.


Thats cool....


----------



## TLHarrell

[quote name="ShineGraphics" Thats cool....[/quote]

It keeps my 8800GTS SLI rig happy. Bottom card is 1/4" off the bottom of the case. The K'Nex fit 80mm fans really well.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> Thought this was pretty ghetto... using K'Nex for hanging some fans in my junker case.


That is just pure win for sure.


----------



## granno21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> Thought this was pretty ghetto... using K'Nex for hanging some fans in my junker case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why stop at just the fans, I would try building the rest of the case out of K'Nex as well


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granno21*
> 
> Why stop at just the fans, I would try building the rest of the case out of K'Nex as well


That would be really cool..








pun intended


----------



## inVain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> Thought this was pretty ghetto... using K'Nex for hanging some fans in my junker case.


the cables look ghetto, so much ghetto


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Its been done.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> 
> Its been done.


Please tell me that lightswitch on the front was the power button.









Also, is that your computer?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Please tell me that lightswitch on the front was the power button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is that your computer?


No idea and lol I wish.


----------



## Malo

this is the best thread on this site!!! lololololololololol


----------



## Bdebrooke

The PSU is an old reliable High watt PSU from an Alienware and will not fit most form Factors.



Had to use this power button seeing how this cases is missing



a 74GB Raptor drive and an 80GB Maxtor Being Held up by a non working 300GB HD



Note The Zipties


----------



## eskamobob1

is it not atx? cause thats what those mounting holes would lead me to believe it was


----------



## Bdebrooke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> is it not atx? cause thats what those mounting holes would lead me to believe it was


It may be , just kinda weird out of all the cases Ive owned Ive never been able to mount it..


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bdebrooke*
> 
> It may be , just kinda weird out of all the cases Ive owned Ive never been able to mount it..


lol... fair enough... it may be an ITX standard or somethign weird like that







.. i have an Ultra X4 that wasnt ATX standard (cant remember what wattage), and it took me forever to figure out it was an mATX mount


----------



## TinDaDragon

So much win in here


----------



## RedScorch

I taped a 2.5" HDD in an old Dell case awhile back.


----------



## Bi-Polar Bear

I use electrical tape for cable management too...







It's a sad thing.


----------



## Bart

I didn't know there was a thread for this! Love it! I busted some res clips for my FrozenQ helix res, so I used a big long twist tie to secure the res top (it's mounted to a screw on the backside of the case):


----------



## burntheskies

Oh man I wish I took photos when I was penny glueing and ziptie fans


----------



## Master__Shake

gotta keep those raid controller heat sinks cool, so i zip tied a fan to the vents on the back of my case and got some active air flow


----------



## von rottes

Now I have room for a 200mm fan on top and another 120 in the rear


----------



## PostalTwinkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have room for a 200mm fan on top and another 120 in the rear


Ahahahaha!

Foam!


----------



## blooder11181

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have room for a 200mm fan on top and another 120 in the rear






omg

nobody will touch the rig...........................ponies


----------



## nvidiaftw12




----------



## Bart

LOL! Someone explain this pony thing! I see pony avatars all over the place. What up with that?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Strange thing where guys usually around 20 like a show (My little pony) which is made for pre-teen girls. Do not understand why though.


----------



## poizone

This is my linux crate. I usually run two 9800GTX+s in SLI, but my second is acting as a physx card for my big desktop right now.

AMD Opteron 165 at 2.1Ghz (Working on the OC)
1GB DDR-400
EVGA 9800GTX+
hec 650w
OCZ Agility 3 60GB

Everything but the motherboard is held in with zipties and luck. I used a sheet of plexiglass to make a mobo tray and drilled some standoff mounts for it. The whole thing slides in and out nicely.

I usually have it hooked up to screens and stuff, but I recently moved back home for winter break, and haven't needed it yet.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

That is great.


----------



## mk16

Anyone have any cheap ways (I.E with out screws) to mount a motherboard to a piece of wood? And if not could you pst what size of screw i would need?


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Do not understand why though.


Because it is a fun show to watch. Plain and simple.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> Anyone have any cheap ways (I.E with out screws) to mount a motherboard to a piece of wood? And if not could you pst what size of screw i would need?


You'd need to use stand-offs wouldn't you, to actually mount the motherboard to the wood?


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Because it is a fun show to watch. Plain and simple.
> You'd need to use stand-offs wouldn't you, to actually mount the motherboard to the wood?


i believe stand offs are only there to keep the motherboard from touching metal and causing a short.


----------



## snipekill2445

I know that







but they'd also make a good mounting platform wouldn't they?


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> Because it is a fun show to watch. Plain and simple.


I don't know, it seems to be a lot more sinister than that, the "fans" I have seen are generally homosexual and from the edges of society. I think that the cartoon is being used to brainwash a heap of expendable youth. For what purpose... who can tell.

(It's a joke, don't be all psycho about it, I don't think I could ever muster (lol) the venom required to respond with anger to anyone that ripped on Top Gear or Transformers... why is this show any different? It isn't?... .. sure... you can put that knife away now and take a deeeeeeep breath.)


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I know that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but they'd also make a good mounting platform wouldn't they?


if you could actually screw them in to wood.


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> if you could actually screw them in to wood.


You can screw standoffs into wood. Just make a guide hole first and ensure you get the locations correct.

Works quite well but I wouldn't do it for a lan/portable rig.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> Anyone have any cheap ways (I.E with out screws) to mount a motherboard to a piece of wood? And if not could you pst what size of screw i would need?


Tie wrap? lol

Sugru?

Putty?

Playdoh?

Nails?


----------



## GanjaGeek

My girlfriend's nephew wanted to know if this GPU would work in his PC... I said, "Well, kind of..."



I ended up trading him my 4550 (which I used for troubleshooting display issues) which was a low profile design - only problem was it had a full length bracket on it. I took off one of the short PCI covers from the Dell case, traced the holes for the VGA and S-Video out and then drilled and filed until I had a perfectly fitting short bracket for the 4550 - I only wish I had a picture of the finished product, maybe I'll take one and edit this post.

Also, the other day I decided it was time for a new battery for my Android. It's a Wildfire S but since it's the Virgin Mobile model, it's slightly different dimensions from the regular Wildfire S - Long story short, I wanted an extended battery, and the double capacity batteries come with new covers to accomodate the larger battery... but the cover won't fit my version of the Wildfire S, despite the fact that the batteries are compatible. So, like any good OCN'er - *I modded that b*tch!* I'm not a big fan of hacking things up, but in this case I felt like I was being constrained and seeing as a new back-plate for my phone is $6 I decided to go through with it


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Tie wrap? lol
> Sugru?
> Putty?
> Playdoh?
> Nails?


well i want to be able to move it around the house.


----------



## lurker2501

Current state after a burned down gpu.


----------



## Ecstacy

Here's my HTPC rig. It's an Athlon II X2 250 (Overclocked to 3.45), 2GB G.SKILL DDR2 800 (Overclocked to 920 @ 5-5-5-15-24-2T), a WD Blue 160GB, an Antec Earthwatts EA380, a LG DVD Burner, and a X1650 Pro PCI-E 512MB all in a crappy eMachines case from 2004.

The graphics card sounded like a jet taking off and has a 2-pin fan header so it can't be controlled via software so I replaced the TIM and took the fan and shroud off. Now it's silent and runs cooler than it did with the fan (Just slightly warm to the touch). Replacing the 8 year old thermal paste was fun, haha. I wouldn't even call it paste, more like cement. Alcohol didn't help so I had to scrap the old paste off with a screw driver. I just got a tube of Arctic Cooling MX-4 so I used the rest of my MX-2 for the graphics card. I have a 120mm fan taped to the hard drive cage to help cool the graphics card. I don't have the cover for the top 5.25" bay so you can see the cables I stuffed in there and the LG Burner in the bottom 5.25" drive bay sticks out a bit.



Here's a pic of the graphics card after I removed the fan/shroud and replaced the TIM.


----------



## dekciW

Here is my most recent ghetto engineering feat. I got a 6990 with a twin turbo accelero cooler and it wont fit in my case so....I took everything out of the case







. Until I get a new cooler setup...HAHA! I had to dust the thing anyways and my mobo has to be RMA'd So it had to be done anyways...well most of it at least. I took out the removable part of my hardrive bays and screwed a piece of cardboard to the bottom of it and zipped tied the top to make a portable hardrive cage HAHA







And its all nicely tucked away behind my monitors where no one can see it


----------



## HPE1000

My hdd tray does not fit with a watercooler and graphics card so I made a hdd tray out of around 20 stacked velcro ties.


One side of the hdd is sitting on the fan, and the other side is sitting on the ghetto rigged holder.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> My hdd tray does not fit with a watercooler and graphics card so I made a hdd tray out of around 20 stacked velcro ties.
> 
> One side of the hdd is sitting on the fan, and the other side is sitting on the ghetto rigged holder.


hey i got the same pack of ties!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Aye, same here. Great things.


----------



## HPE1000

I use them on everything, I have gone through like 4 spools so far.


----------



## kyismaster

3.5 drive side mounted on a dual 5.25




cool thing is that you can't see it from the front



don't mind the cable management, still working it out.


----------



## junkerde

LOLOLO THE CARDBOARD BOX CASE KILLED ME HA! HE EVEN HAD THE CUTOUTS FOR THE DVD DRIVES LOL!!!!


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 3.5 drive side mounted on a dual 5.25
> 
> 
> cool thing is that you can't see it from the front
> 
> don't mind the cable management, still working it out.


Nice, but that case is WAY too big for a Mini-ITX mobo.









Btw, does anyone know if there's any danger is mounting hard drives sideways or upside down? Reason I'm asking is I've had fans that started making noise when mounted upside down and I don't want my hard drive to wear out early from not being mounted up-right.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecstacy*
> 
> Nice, but that case is WAY too big for a Mini-ITX mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, does anyone know if there's any danger is mounting hard drives sideways or upside down? Reason I'm asking is I've had fans that started making noise when mounted upside down and I don't want my hard drive to wear out early from not being mounted up-right.


shhh if you keep your eyes on the upper half it looks like its a full ATX.









no danger. by the way, take xbox 360 for example, you can either have it sideways, or flat.


----------



## blooder11181

"the hot and 4fans"

120mm for gpu and soundcard and 80mm an "wind tunnel" to help the stock cooler




the old big box dvd for comparison





the specs
oem (but good) case deer 460watts w/120mm fan
ecs 661fx-m7
pentium 4 560j 3.6ghz
784mb ddr 400
radeon 9550 256mb 128bits ddr agp
audigy 2 platinum
pionner slot in dvd
80gb ide

1 front 8mm fan
2 side 80mm fan for cpu cooler and 120mm for add in cards


----------



## von rottes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 3.5 drive side mounted on a dual 5.25
> 
> cool thing is that you can't see it from the front
> 
> don't mind the cable management, still working it out.


WHAT THE HAY, BRO.

why are your UV CCFL's so much brighter than mine?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> WHAT THE HAY, BRO.
> why are your UV CCFL's so much brighter than mine?


thats a 72 LED strip my friend.









trying to sell it. i want a different color than UV


----------



## Chickenman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> "the hot and 4fans"
> 
> 120mm for gpu and soundcard and 80mm an "wind tunnel" to help the stock cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the old big box dvd for comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the specs
> oem (but good) case deer 460watts w/120mm fan
> ecs 661fx-m7
> pentium 4 560j 3.6ghz
> 784mb ddr 400
> radeon 9550 256mb 128bits ddr agp
> audigy 2 platinum
> pionner slot in dvd
> 80gb ide
> 1 front 8mm fan
> 2 side 80mm fan for cpu cooler and 120mm for add in cards






I had the Audigy 2 Plat. EX for 8 years, was the best sound card I ever used - solid ASIO driver and I recorded almost all of my music and a lot of other peoples with it. It was the only soundcard that got the mix of A/V/Gaming/Music creation right in my opinion.

It got lost during a move... think my Mrs tossed the box or something - so anger


----------



## von rottes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> WHAT THE HAY, BRO.
> why are your UV CCFL's so much brighter than mine?
> 
> 
> 
> thats a 72 LED strip my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> trying to sell it. i want a different color than UV
Click to expand...

I noticed the LEDs after posted that Dx
Ohh how much you want, I love my UV's but the CCFL's I have are just SOOOOOOO DIMMMMM!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> I noticed the LEDs after posted that Dx
> Ohh how much you want, I love my UV's but the CCFL's I have are just SOOOOOOO DIMMMMM!


just wing me a pm and i can wing you something.


----------



## nX3NTY

Can ghetto laptop join?









Checking whether a dead LCD backlight can be used without the backlight and running transparent. Here is the result, nothing more than cloth clipper to LCD frame to hold it together.



The curcuit on the LCD panel looks cool


----------



## von rottes

^^^^ THAT IS AWESOME


----------



## blooder11181

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Can ghetto laptop join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checking whether a dead LCD backlight can be used without the backlight and running transparent. Here is the result, nothing more than cloth clipper to LCD frame to hold it together.
> 
> The curcuit on the LCD panel looks cool





nice one
you better make patent for that before apple sues you.


----------



## swOrd_fish

now that's what we call "back(yard)"light lol! awesome!


----------



## furyn9

Best thread ever , this is awesome


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Can ghetto laptop join?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checking whether a dead LCD backlight can be used without the backlight and running transparent. Here is the result, nothing more than cloth clipper to LCD frame to hold it together.
> 
> The curcuit on the LCD panel looks cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Impressive.


----------



## DJKAY

I´ve just seen this thread and thought I would have something that fits in








It´is my very old Pc and sits in my bedroom.
Just a core2duo at stock with some 5V fans in my IKEA Cupboard with som bitumen on the sides








And ist just dead silence maybe hot but inaudibly


----------



## Unknownm

before a case


----------



## .nikon

I would snap some pictures of this but that would require me taking my psu apart again.

My psu's fan is held on as well as the wires held together by duct tape. 3 years strong.


----------



## inVain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Can ghetto laptop join?


that's what we called a solar panel


----------



## TLHarrell

Daylight readable display. And cheaper than one of those Pixel Qi displays.


----------



## InsideJob

Here is my room mates ghetto rigged computer desk







My small bachelor apartment is lacking of storage, so the pile of storage containers/boxes became his computer desk


----------



## svtfmook

homemade hobby power supply... with built in battery cooler!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfmook*
> 
> homemade hobby power supply... with built in battery cooler!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa, that's pretty cool.


----------



## Syryll

So the parents needed a computer, but all I had laying around was a Tosh laptop with a cracked screen. I did what any ghetto modder would.

I completely removed the LCD, frame, and bezel. This left me with no place to mount the WLAN antennae, webcam, and mic, so some wannabe speed tape came into play. The laptop was also missing a keyboard. I had one laying around from an older model of the same laptop that was a different color. You can see the webcam taped just to the left of the right speaker.



As far as other ghetto shenanigans, I've also made Red LED case lighting by just wiring up 6 2v LEDs in series and then wrapping them in cellophane to insulate from the chassis.


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## martinhal

My rads


----------



## ShineGraphics

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martinhal*
> 
> My rads


Duct Tape fixes everything I swear..


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *martinhal*
> 
> My rads


Wow I thought my rad setup was kind of ghetto but you take the cake. Mine is set up on long M3 bolts with jam nuts.


----------



## diesel678

try this one..

Hard drives suspended with zip ties:


has in fact stopped my hard drive dubstep once and for all.. The symphonies were pretty awful with the metal hard drive brackets before i did this now they are just about silent.

Along with some packaging foam and cardboard sound insulation my many drives are just about silent!


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> try this one..
> 
> Hard drives suspended with zip ties:
> 
> 
> has in fact stopped my hard drive dubstep once and for all.. The symphonies were pretty awful with the metal hard drive brackets before i did this now they are just about silent.
> 
> Along with some packaging foam and cardboard sound insulation my many drives are just about silent!


Nice! If you use those elastic hair ties girls wear or something else stretchy instead of zip-ties it might help to absorb the vibrations a little better.


----------



## InsideJob

Ghetto rigged cold air intake system


----------



## swOrd_fish

nice one!








but condensation is what i'm thinking of ...or it's only me.


----------



## nleksan

Condensation occurs when cold components contact warm air, not when you have cold air coming into a warm environment. You can see this in action by taking a Glass of Cold Water outside on a Warm (75F+ day), versus taking a warm glass of water (say ~130F) outside on a cold day (35F). The former will "sweat", the latter will only steam


----------



## diesel678

The only way to filter dust from a 25cm side fan xD


----------



## Eaglake

I was with my friend fotographing, and he needed a flash. So we made one


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> I was with my friend fotographing, and he needed a flash. So we made one


Nice! xD

Btw, I normally see it spelled photographing. Does a lot of European countries spell it with an 'f' or is it just Latvia? I mean no offense by this, just curious.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecstacy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> I was with my friend fotographing, and he needed a flash. So we made one
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! xD
> 
> Btw, I normally see it spelled photographing. Does a lot of European countries spell it with an 'f' or is it just Latvia? I mean no offense by this, just curious.
Click to expand...

I guess it's just my bad english








In our language Photographing is fotogrāfēt. Maby that's why I spell it that way


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> The only way to filter dust from a 25cm side fan xD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Smart!


----------



## diesel678

gigabit switch anyone? its powered internally by a molex. comes in handy as i'm always transferring blu rays ti my laptop


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> gigabit switch anyone? its powered internally by a molex. comes in handy as i'm always transferring blu rays ti my laptop


You're gonna give me a tutorial on how to do that, right?


----------



## SteevyT

Not terribly ghetto, just a little resistor thing I rigged up to drop the voltage on a 12V molex connector for some lighting I have planned.


Not very ghetto either, just a pain to get set up. I had to run cat5e cable right by where my feet go under my desk, and i'm tall enough that my feet are right against the wall, so cords running there is a no-go. I first attempted duct taping the cords to the desk, but I used cheap knock off duct tape and that didn't work well at all (you can actually sort of see the final piece still kind of hanging on). So then I took some safety pins, chopped them up and jammed them into the desk using needle nosed pliers. Then I hooked the cord over the safety pin pieces. Seems to work.


Fairly ghetto, a hobby power supply I rigged up out of a 10ish-year-old PSU to power my LiPo battery charger which I had to make several modifications to some of the leads on so that it would charge the battery. Yes, everything is wired up correctly to charge and balance the cells (I think, I kind of haven't used it in a while and need to brush up on the manual)


----------



## CallAMedic4U

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moocowman*
> 
> I just whipped this beast up the other day while bored. I found an old Athlon XP CPU attached to a crappy ECS motherboard and this is what I came up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, a heatsink (totally not for the processor) with a clip from another heatsink that just barely fits and fan zip-tied on. I found a 60GB quantum fireball HDD for the OS as well as a Seagate 7200.9, but I might be using that in my server since it's MUCH faster. 1GB of RAM and an FX5200 to top it off and there you go.. my (IMO) epic ghetto rigged computer.


Looks like you need to buy some drywall and mud


----------



## mironccr345

^^ Whoa.


----------



## Cheezman

That room in the background is more ghetto rigged then the PC.

Good lord man, what happened, did a small industrious country invade your house?


----------



## IPlasmic

I really wish i took a picture of my computer when i set it temporarily for a day. I didnt have power strips so there were wires going across my living room, it was bad.


----------



## AlaskaFox

before


flipped antec "large PSU bracket" upside down so my powersupply would be reversed so my cables would rout closer to the motherboard tray



the penny is there case i needed a couple MM space for the screw.













mounted pump with zipties ALL the way around my psu,
eliminated my stock HDD rack to make room for the radiator (along with the bottom of my optical rack)
Ziptied the HDD bay from my antec 900 to the bottom of the case for new rack.
it is very effective.


cristmas lights under a couple stainless steel paper trays i got from work for a stand + accent lighting.

And i dont even have pictures of my other computers case, whooo boy ghetto fabulouse


----------



## Master__Shake

my computer chair broke...but that foot stool was ok


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> my computer chair broke...but that foot stool was ok


HA


----------



## inVain

not my rig,
but I fell in love at the very first sight


----------



## lurker2501

Solid.


----------



## sebmeikle

Loving the Green/Black sleeving on the OP. I'm working on a mod with the a similar theme.


----------



## CallAMedic4U

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> My friend bought a new desk today for his high end water cooled pc and this is what he showed me:
> 
> 
> This is his gaming/entertainment setup with readily available tissue on hand.
> Take notice of the $500 DSLR mounted on the tripod smaller than his pc.


Keep enough tissues around your porn hub?

Also might tell him to empty his trash can of "wad rags" and do his dishes


----------



## HPE1000

LOL


----------



## The_chemist21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yuisporing*
> 
> My friend bought a new desk today for his high end water cooled pc and this is what he showed me:
> 
> 
> This is his gaming/entertainment setup with readily available tissue on hand.
> Take notice of the $500 DSLR mounted on the tripod smaller than his pc.


What, no blacklight?


----------



## SteevyT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The_chemist21*
> 
> What, no blacklight?


Ewwwwwww....... Why would you even ask that?


----------



## sebmeikle

What's an ideal MCD rating for an led. I don't want it to glare when its on. It will be for the HDD led light.


----------



## mironccr345

^^ that's an old post. Just noticed the chop sticks.


----------



## martinhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallAMedic4U*
> 
> Keep enough tissues around your porn hub?
> 
> Also might tell him to empty his trash can of "wad rags" and do his dishes


the tissues are rather disturbing...........


----------



## blooder11181

or that room is always at 7ºc and he sneeze is nose a lot

edit: i dedicate this page for TF 141.


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> or that room is always at 7ºc and he sneeze is nose a lot


honestly eigther way that room is kinda.. gross.

cluttered is one thing, germs are another...

anyways, i dont think this thread is meant for trashing someones trashy trash room, so lets get back on topic








i aught to post how i recently set up my watercooling pump, just need to take pics


----------



## TLHarrell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sebmeikle*
> 
> What's an ideal MCD rating for an led. I don't want it to glare when its on. It will be for the HDD led light.


Don't need a high rated LED. Just use a cheapie T 1 3/4 normal brightness LED. The high MCD ones usually have a much smaller viewing angle. For HDD activity, wide angle is best.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Ill be posting some ultra ghetto lighting tomorrow.


----------



## mironccr345

^^^^ Let's see it.


----------



## Aleslammer

Some of my duct tape / garage project over the last couple of years

Use of an according style toilet plunger to adapt the 4" ducting to the front of the case, the complete setup worked extremely well but froze my legs, needed return ducting to put the cold air back outside


Recycling a Newegg box for some extra cool on a Radeon HD 5450, actually got cold enough to start misting water droplets on the video card, didn't hurt anything but the card sure started to perform strangely. Also shows a portion of the self contained water cooling setup I put together for benching.


Recycling an Antec case MB tray for a benching station.


----------



## Cruz

^^^ WOW Just WOW!


----------



## sebmeikle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> Don't need a high rated LED. Just use a cheapie T 1 3/4 normal brightness LED. The high MCD ones usually have a much smaller viewing angle. For HDD activity, wide angle is best.


Ah, thanks. Sorry about posting the question here. No idea why that happened. I'm sure I was on my thread.


----------



## lurker2501

Air compressor? That's one bad-ass setup. rep+


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Some of my duct tape / garage project over the last couple of years
> 
> Use of an according style toilet plunger to adapt the 4" ducting to the front of the case, the complete setup worked extremely well but froze my legs, needed return ducting to put the cold air back outside
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recycling a Newegg box for some extra cool on a Radeon HD 5450, actually got cold enough to start misting water droplets on the video card, didn't hurt anything but the card sure started to perform strangely. Also shows a portion of the self contained water cooling setup I put together for benching.
> 
> 
> Recycling an Antec case MB tray for a benching station.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Some of my duct tape / garage project over the last couple of years
> 
> Use of an according style toilet plunger to adapt the 4" ducting to the front of the case, the complete setup worked extremely well but froze my legs, needed return ducting to put the cold air back outside
> 
> 
> Recycling a Newegg box for some extra cool on a Radeon HD 5450, actually got cold enough to start misting water droplets on the video card, didn't hurt anything but the card sure started to perform strangely. Also shows a portion of the self contained water cooling setup I put together for benching.
> 
> 
> Recycling an Antec case MB tray for a benching station.


Wow....that's nutts!


----------



## diesel678

Replacing the loud little tiddler of a fan that was on my HTPC graphics card, with something more quiet and effective. A 1155 intel heatsink with a 80mm sharkoon fan intuitively mounted with zip ties


----------



## Accuracy158

I'm pretty sure I saw another guy on these forums who had a tube (left over from a dryers exhaust) going from his AC to his computers intake.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> 
> 
> Replacing the loud little tiddler of a fan that was on my HTPC graphics card, with something more quiet and effective. A 1155 intel heatsink with a 80mm sharkoon fan intuitively mounted with zip ties


cool man, how are you temps now?


----------



## Aleslammer

Thanks for the comments, all.

Lurker2501, air compressor?

Accuracy158, not that uncommon at all, if I remember right the first two are posted here in other sections and the idea to do it was probably gleamed from this site or one of it's competitors, just showing some recycling, jury-rigging and use of parts laying around the house.


----------



## diesel678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> cool man, how are you temps now?


Stays below 35 C at all times!!


----------



## Mailman377

My media newegg case.


----------



## HPE1000

Oh heck yeah! boss status


----------



## Scorpion49

I love these threads. My contribution isn't super ghetto but I had to be careful with it because I'm renting this router from the cable company. It would get too hot and drop connection all the time so I screwed a spare 120mm into the holes mesh on the side with self tapping screws, then as an afterthought put the filter on top. Then I cut up an old 12v brick from an external drive and spliced it to a 2-pin fan connector with some clear tape. Been running for like 4 months with no dropped connections now! Also mounted it to the side of a corner table to hide it.


----------



## WhatWoodJudasDo

A light on my mobo was bugging the hell out of me flashing BRIGHT blue right in my eyes. So i took care of the issue with a small piece of electrical tape!

Before


After


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhatWoodJudasDo*
> 
> A light on my mobo was bugging the hell out of me flashing BRIGHT blue right in my eyes. So i took care of the issue with a small piece of electrical tape!
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After


LOL that can be turned off in the BIOS. I have the Z68 GD80 and mine has the same thing.

Temp folding setup using that board under my desk.


----------



## mironccr345

haha ^^^ nice man, feet are going to get nice and toasty.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhatWoodJudasDo*
> 
> A light on my mobo was bugging the hell out of me flashing BRIGHT blue right in my eyes. So i took care of the issue with a small piece of electrical tape!
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> After


I am thinking about doing that with the light bulb on the bottom of my motherboard. Is it safe to use electric tape on it?


----------



## wolfeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> I am thinking about doing that with the light bulb on the bottom of my motherboard. Is it safe to use electric tape on it?


absolutely. the tape is an insulator not a conductor. No harm will come other than the sticky residue when you remove it.


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfeking*
> 
> absolutely. the tape is an insulator not a conductor. No harm will come other than the sticky residue when you remove it.


Cool; thanks for the tip.


----------



## BorisTheSpider

LOL the under the desk folding rig reminds me of a guy I used to know who did little pieces of electronics design for me, had his entire build hanging from a shelf using bits of string - all nicely insulated by free air.


----------



## wolfeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Cool; thanks for the tip.


no problem at all. I've ran my board taped over since I got it. Blue LEDs just drove me absolutely crazy.

Here is my horrible job at it though. Forgive the dust, bad lighting, bad camera angle, horrible resolution, and generally crappy quality.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8496380048/
20130221_014318 by wolfeking, on Flickr


----------



## hakz




----------



## AlaskaFox

Got some new pics finaly









heres what i had before


and heres how i remounted the pump (also painted the ghetto drive bay to match the rest of my case along with a simple fan under it to prevent my radiator heat from building up in my drives.)






I used my old stock heatsink fan as a VRM cooler







helps me keep this cpu OCed 4ghz nicely


----------



## mironccr345

People getting creative in this thread. I like it!


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aleslammer*
> 
> Some of my duct tape / garage project over the last couple of years
> 
> Use of an according style toilet plunger to adapt the 4" ducting to the front of the case, the complete setup worked extremely well but froze my legs, needed return ducting to put the cold air back outside
> 
> 
> Recycling a Newegg box for some extra cool on a Radeon HD 5450, actually got cold enough to start misting water droplets on the video card, didn't hurt anything but the card sure started to perform strangely. Also shows a portion of the self contained water cooling setup I put together for benching.
> 
> 
> Recycling an Antec case MB tray for a benching station.


I've never thought i would see this in my lifetime ...

... a Turbo charged PC ...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Turned a nearly dead 955 BE into a keychain. Didn't turn out the best. Cut too deep on the milling machine, and the vice wasn't exactly level. Oh well, there is always another time.







I am not the best chip photographer.


----------



## hakz

i love that idea!









although I do not have a good milling machine to get the pins out. Intel's gonna be tasty, but I'm an amd fan so...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> i love that idea!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although I do not have a good milling machine to get the pins out. Intel's gonna be tasty, but I'm an amd fan so...


You don't need a milling machine. There are many other ways, and many of them might turn out better.


----------



## hakz

how about the drilling?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Just a drill press. Could have used the mill, but it was kinda overkill.

Do you have a cordless or hand drill?


----------



## PCModderMike

I've made a couple keychains like that so far....and going to turn my dead 570 into one soon. I just use a cordless for mine, works out pretty good.


----------



## blooder11181

just a simple paper.


----------



## PCModderMike

Purpose of the paper?


----------



## blooder11181

to cool the cpu better.
didn't come with the cone so i made one


----------



## ML241

Here's a socket 754 cooler on a AM3 board with the aid of some steel plumber's tape.





Stock cooler (IBT) 53c
New cooler (IBT) 41c









Update: Since doing this mod I was able to overclock this chip to 4.0Ghz on stock voltage 12 hours prime stable topping out at 53c. It will unlock all cores and overclock to 4ghz however I figured since it has a weak 4+1 VRM's It would be best to just overclock two cores.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2709986


----------



## PCModderMike

Haha epic


----------



## Scott1541

Your pipe cable management seems pretty effective too


----------



## hakz

thats a fairly difficult thing to mount, no? I'm a bit scared of scraping the board.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I did that with some zip ties, only worked ok.


----------



## ML241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> thats a fairly difficult thing to mount, no? I'm a bit scared of scraping the board.


The board (MSI Fusion 870A) and CPU (AMD x2 555) where free so that took out some fear. Being its a MSI board I half expected it to catch on fire on first boot. I also put electrical tape on the board so no metal can touch the board. Tomorrow I put in the other power supply and the 8800GTS 640mb.


----------



## hakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ML241*
> 
> Being its a MSI board I half expected it to catch on fire on first boot.












don't forget the footage!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

MY GTS250 used to run hot in my small case so THIS HELPED ME DROPPED 8c .this was one of my first rigs at the time


----------



## mironccr345

^^ haha, that's a good idea. I use to open my window durring winter, and put my computer right next to the window to see how much cooler my components can get. I dont remember the exact numbers, but it definitely brought the temps down.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^^ haha, that's a good idea. I use to open my window durring winter, and put my computer right next to the window to see how much cooler my components can get. I dont remember the exact numbers, but it definitely brought the temps down.


LOLS ur lucky U GOT WINTER!! i live in the CARIBBEAN HOT!! so i try all sorts of stuff to see my temps drop XD


----------



## yoi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> LOLS ur lucky U GOT WINTER!! i live in the CARIBBEAN HOT!! so i try all sorts of stuff to see my temps drop XD


yeah , here in puerto rico , if its below 80 in Metro area . is the apocalypse or something , its always between 87-93 . and on summer , its not that hot like in texas because we got the breeze from the ocean and that helps some , but it tops the 100s , its just that the wind helps here


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> MY GTS250 used to run hot in my small case so THIS HELPED ME DROPPED 8c .this was one of my first rigs at the time
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you ever have any issues with moisture or condensation? That would be my biggest fear if I was doing something like this. Well, that and thieves breaking in through the open window


----------



## AlaskaFox

I can see my temps drop by as much as 10C by just opening my window in the winter time.

or if i have the fan in my window exhausting air with all the other windows open (like i do right now; still gets chilly ) i see it drop by about 5

right now im sitting at a perfect 25 idle (ussualy closer to 30 )


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> I can see my temps drop by as much as 10C by just opening my window in the winter time.
> 
> or if i have the fan in my window exhausting air with all the other windows open (like i do right now; still gets chilly ) i see it drop by about 5
> 
> right now im sitting at a perfect 25 idle (ussualy closer to 30 )


I used to idle at 17c from dec-feb


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Did you ever have any issues with moisture or condensation? That would be my biggest fear if I was doing something like this. Well, that and thieves breaking in through the open window


UMM as i said i LIVE IN THE CARIBBEAN tropics. Its all ways hot and there are only 2 seasons SO i dont have to worry about condensation


----------



## mironccr345

^^ You ever consider water cooling?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^^ You ever consider water cooling?


He has but importing it is an issue IIRC?


----------



## nleksan

Condensation does not occur when the cold air hits the warm parts, it's when warm air hits cold parts. I have put my entire PC outside in well-below-freezing temps (and run 9-12ft cables for monitor, mouse, and keyboard!) for overclocking, and so long as you don't "temp shock" the computer when you bring it back in, you'll be perfectly fine. I usually turn it off after I'm finished and wait until my temp probes read the MB VRM's to be identical to the ambient temp probes, give it another 15min, and THEN bring it inside; I don't turn it on again until the computer is back up to ~66F (or whatever my inside ambient is). NEVER had a SINGLE ISSUE doing it this way!
I have gotten some wicked overclocks, though! 2,885Mhz on my AMD FX-51 using an AIR COOLER, 589core/638mem on an X800XT-PE with the STOCK COOLER, DDR-591 2-3-2-5 from some Corsair Registered/ECC XMS, 5.3Ghz on 2700K with AIR COOLER, almost 1200Mhz on a 580 3GB using the STOCK COOLER, DDR3-2985 10-14-11-33 from G.Skill Ripjaws Z 2133 9-11-10-28, and so forth...

WINTER IS YOUR FRIEND!!!


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiharo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a modded Nvidia 7300GS with a stock AMD cooler with zipties :3











This is what I like to see.


----------



## diesel678

i am the master of zip ties


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> He has but importing it is an issue IIRC?


Ahhh, that would be pricey.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I like to see.


That's actually cool looking. Gave me an Idea.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> i am the master of zip ties
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> haha, that's one way of mounting fans. Cotton Balls on the top to minimize vibrations?


----------



## HPE1000

Well, I have my ghetto hdd mount

And I added a fan to my sugo sg05, dont know how well it works yet because my new motherboard is in the mail and should be here in a hour or two.
I guess this was born from boredom and more fans than I thought I could use.


----------



## MrDucktape

Oh man, that's exactly what I wanna do with my 7300 SE! I guess Scythe Mugen 2 is a bit too big.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> He has but importing it is an issue IIRC?


i dont mind going water cooled! BUT IT gunna COST me A 4 Digit FIGURE! ordering it online.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> i dont mind going water cooled! BUT IT gunna COST me A 4 Digit FIGURE! ordering it online.


>1grand for cooling = issue does it not?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> >1grand for cooling = issue does it not?


YIP is TT$6.50 TO US$1.00 +SHIPPING AND HANDLING AND CLEARANCE FEE SO ITS kinda tuff


----------



## broadbandaddict

Here's my latest. I've been wanting a laptop to just browse the net on. Somebody brought this in to my work to donate because the video didn't work on it. I pulled the motherboard and baked it at 400 for 9 minutes and voila, works great now. It does need a new LCD so I've got to order one those. Best $30 I've ever spent.











2.4GHz Core 2, 4GB DDR2, 60GB HDD, DVD Burner, Nvidia 135M, 2 chargers, 2 Dell docks


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

^^ U BAKED IT xD!!! WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM??


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Likely solder balls that hold the gpu on were broken, causing it not to work.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> ^^ U BAKED IT xD!!! WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM??


The D630s are notorious for failing video cards, the ones with dedicated Nvidia chips overheat and ruin the solder joints. Bake it and the video card solder reseats, upgrade the BIOS (went from A03 to A17 on this one) and it shouldn't do it again, there was no thermal throttling for the GPU in the early BIOS it has to be A10 or higher I think. Nvidia actually set aside a bunch of money to fix these when it happened.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

AWESOME i might try this with my bruh girl friend laptop and turn it into a car pc for EVO SCAN if the laptop is still alive


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Here's my latest. I've been wanting a laptop to just browse the net on. Somebody brought this in to my work to donate because the video didn't work on it. I pulled the motherboard and baked it at 400 for 9 minutes and voila, works great now. It does need a new LCD so I've got to order one those. Best $30 I've ever spent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.4GHz Core 2, 4GB DDR2, 60GB HDD, DVD Burner, Nvidia 135M, 2 chargers, 2 Dell docks


LOL
cool that you fixed it, but im curious, if you are simply going to use the vga out currently, why not not just use that monitor on your main rig?


----------



## CptAsian

These are hilarious. I love 'em.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> LOL
> cool that you fixed it, but im curious, if you are simply going to use the vga out currently, why not not just use that monitor on your main rig?


I'll be getting a new LCD panel for it, that's where the $30 comes in. Right now I've got it hooked up to my U2410 so that I can get Windows 7 (this thing does not like Ubuntu







) up and running and run some hardware checks to make sure everything checks out. I gotta find an SSD for it too, I've got a Vertex 4 in it right now and I'm pretty sure that's total overkill.


----------



## AlaskaFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> I'll be getting a new LCD panel for it, that's where the $30 comes in. Right now I've got it hooked up to my U2410 so that I can get Windows 7 (this thing does not like Ubuntu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) up and running and run some hardware checks to make sure everything checks out. I gotta find an SSD for it too, I've got a Vertex 4 in it right now and I'm pretty sure that's total overkill.


ahh, well i guess then thats viable









is the SSD the only drive that will be installed? im assuming so since you said its gonna be a netbook only.
windows 7 isnt too large eigther, i have it installed on my netbook and i belive its only a 30gb







damn near full after some simple programs though >.>


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlaskaFox*
> 
> ahh, well i guess then thats viable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is the SSD the only drive that will be installed? im assuming so since you said its gonna be a netbook only.
> windows 7 isnt too large eigther, i have it installed on my netbook and i belive its only a 30gb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> damn near full after some simple programs though >.>


Yeah, one SSD only. I need to find a 60GB somewhere that isn't gonna die immediately and isn't a ton of money. I'll mostly just browse the net on this at work, do some Excel once a week too but I do most of that through Google Docs anyways so not really going to be pushing this too much. I'm gonna get a 9 cell battery for it and maybe multibay 6 cell if they are cheap enough. Figure it should run the whole day with those two batteries plus the 6 cell it's got as a spare.

My original plan was to get a cheap laptop, maybe another Chromebook, but I've always liked the looks of these Latitudes and a price tag of zero dollars is pretty convincing too.


----------



## Supreme888

Athlon 64 X2 3800+ Duel Core (Blue orb II)
Asus A8N-SLI Premium nForce4
eVGA E-GEFORCE 7800GT 256MB DDR3 PCI-E
Corsair 2GB PC3000


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Here's my latest. I've been wanting a laptop to just browse the net on. Somebody brought this in to my work to donate because the video didn't work on it. I pulled the motherboard and baked it at 400 for 9 minutes and voila, works great now. It does need a new LCD so I've got to order one those. Best $30 I've ever spent.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.4GHz Core 2, 4GB DDR2, 60GB HDD, DVD Burner, Nvidia 135M, 2 chargers, 2 Dell docks


Nice! Glade you got it working. I had a GPU die on our accountants laptop. she just gave it to me and it was sitting in my closet for almost a year. Until my brother needed a laptop. I didn't even think about baking the mobo, instead I used a hair dryer and Boom, it worked.


----------



## ViSioNx

Athlon IIx2 Regor. Running on ghetto ice cooling lol!


----------



## SteevyT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViSioNx*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1326784/width/500/height/1000[/IMG][/spoiler
> 
> Athlon IIx2 Regor. Running on ghetto ice cooling lol!


Go home everyone, pretty sure this wins. Ghetto and dangerous (for the computer) at the same time.


----------



## mikeroq

Mine isn't too bad. So I was re arranging my room, and I bought one of those metal wire shelves. So I thought hmm this corner looks like a nice place for my other monitor, well how do I mount it? So I was looking at the back and though, hmm looks like I could get a zip tie through there and bam we have monitor!





If you are wondering how it stays at that height, the back of the monitor sits on the little lip of the shelf. Just barely, other wise it would be about 2" lower but would block my access to the power/reset on my computer.


----------



## ViSioNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteevyT*
> 
> Go home everyone, pretty sure this wins. Ghetto and dangerous (for the computer) at the same time.


It is an extra setup I have and I was sure not to leave it alone. The original plan was to place the can directly on the cpu but the round indention foiled all that lol.


----------



## Xinoxide

Couple of my Antec300. I originally planned to grab a Corsair C70, but my budget got axed for the time being.


----------



## lordhinton

i wanted dual fans on my core 1000







, cut this plastic here, put gaffa tape there...

also the h80i is friends with cable ties







(that strip doesn't affect temps at all)


----------



## BodenM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteevyT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ViSioNx*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1326784/width/500/height/1000[/IMG][/spoiler
> 
> Athlon IIx2 Regor. Running on ghetto ice cooling lol!
> 
> 
> 
> Go home everyone, pretty sure this wins. Ghetto and dangerous (for the computer) at the same time.
Click to expand...



__
https://www.reddit.com/r/19mcyz/extreme_overclocking_diy_style/


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xinoxide*
> 
> Couple of my Antec300. I originally planned to grab a Corsair C70, but my budget got axed for the time being.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love that 360 mod!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> i wanted dual fans on my core 1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , cut this plastic here, put gaffa tape there...
> 
> also the h80i is friends with cable ties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (that strip doesn't affect temps at all)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice mod! thinking of adding another fan in the front too!


----------



## ViSioNx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BodenM*
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/19mcyz/extreme_overclocking_diy_style/


Holy crap! I posted here and facebook. Now its Everywhere!!


----------



## SpykeZ

lol this thread is so fun. I luff you all


----------



## linuxfueled

ghjetto reservoir with 2x fountain pumps. SLI gtx460 on one loop and an i7 920 on the other





look at all that totally free debri in the tank. Years of using the same radiators.


----------



## mironccr345

NICE! What's the inside of the case look like?


----------



## Schmuckley

No need to change block tops








I learned this one from Mike.


----------



## TLHarrell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linuxfueled*
> 
> ghjetto reservoir with 2x fountain pumps.


What happens when your little brother decides to play too aggressively near your computer and sloshes that tank just a little...?


----------



## blooder11181

or place some fish inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> or place some fish inside!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Man you saved my day









That would be so f***** ridicules:thumb:


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiharo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a modded Nvidia 7300GS with a stock AMD cooler with zipties :3


Look how cute they are, mortal enemies, working so well together...


----------



## Scott1541

Fish might be alright but if it were me I wouldn't want the fish crap being pumped around my rig


----------



## voidsstr

Ok here's one to rule them all:



Details:

4 225W peltiers sandwiched between 2 liquid heat exchangers. Cold loop goes to CPU, hot side goes to radiators. Worked pretty well - consistently saw below ambient temperatures under load. However, as you can see in the picture, it took 4 power supplies. This was a proof of concept - I decided this was taking too much power for the benefit so I went phase change instead.


----------



## HPE1000




----------



## SteevyT

Did it just get up or something? Looks like you need to brush it.


----------



## Scott1541

That's beyond ghetto


----------



## voidsstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> That's beyond ghetto


Yep. My wife thought I was making a bomb in the basement when I was putting it together lol.


----------



## TheBrowno

I'm impressed, however I'd really like to see your phase change system


----------



## Cheezman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voidsstr*
> 
> Yep. My wife thought I was making a bomb in the basement when I was putting it together lol.


You should have told her you were. Keep her in line.

Just kidding.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voidsstr*
> 
> Ok here's one to rule them all:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Details:
> 
> 4 225W peltiers sandwiched between 2 liquid heat exchangers. Cold loop goes to CPU, hot side goes to radiators. Worked pretty well - consistently saw below ambient temperatures under load. However, as you can see in the picture, it took 4 power supplies. This was a proof of concept - I decided this was taking too much power for the benefit so I went phase change instead.


Okay, close the thread. You win.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voidsstr*
> 
> Ok here's one to rule them all:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Details:
> 
> 4 225W peltiers sandwiched between 2 liquid heat exchangers. Cold loop goes to CPU, hot side goes to radiators. Worked pretty well - consistently saw below ambient temperatures under load. However, as you can see in the picture, it took 4 power supplies. This was a proof of concept - I decided this was taking too much power for the benefit so I went phase change instead.


Like whoa! Would like to see the current set up.


----------



## nleksan

That looks like it should be powering a time-traveling DeLorean


----------



## voidsstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Like whoa! Would like to see the current set up.


Here's the current setup after ditching pelts and going with phase change. Water for the video card and phase change for the cpu. MUCH better performance - AMD 8350 @ 5.6ghz and the evap is at about -29C after a couple hours playing crysis 3.


----------



## kinvara

didnt know what phase change cooling was... googled it... spent 22 minutes reading a whole crap ton of random cooling info... did you know that the cray-2 had 8 proccesors and was fully submerged in non-conductive coolant... and it could ddo 1.81 gigaflops a second... F.M.L


----------



## TheBrowno

Phase change is the principle that refrigerators use to cool themselves below ambient temperature. It abuses the fact that if you decompress a fluid in a sealed environment it'll suck in energy from its surroundings, which you can kick back out later by re compressing the fluid

Voidsttr: is that a prebuilt cooler or did you make it?


----------



## ML241

Here's another mod I did on a laptop. It is a HP with a 2.3Ghz dual core and a 4670m 1GB DDR3 that kept overheating. I heat gunned the mobo to bring it back to life and made shims out of a cooler for a socket 462 for the stock cooling. Then I cut a hole and stuck a 80mm fan grill on it. Doesn't overheat anymore.


----------



## voidsstr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Phase change is the principle that refrigerators use to cool themselves below ambient temperature. It abuses the fact that if you decompress a fluid in a sealed environment it'll suck in energy from its surroundings, which you can kick back out later by re compressing the fluid
> 
> Voidsttr: is that a prebuilt cooler or did you make it?


I looked around for a used unit and gray mole contacted me in this forum so I bought it from him. It is a dual condenser setup - I think it's tuned to suck up 300 watts of heat.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ML241*
> 
> Here's another mod I did on a laptop. It is a HP with a 2.3Ghz dual core and a 4670m 1GB DDR3 that kept overheating. I heat gunned the mobo to bring it back to life and made shims out of a cooler for a socket 462 for the stock cooling. Then I cut a hole and stuck a 80mm fan grill on it. Doesn't overheat anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ha ha, my DV6 could do with one of those







The damn thing is always running hot. Also mine's gone one of those mahoosive batteries too


----------



## ML241

Mines a dv6 artist edition also. I've considered making a custom case for it out of a pelican case and modding an aftermarket cooler to it but I don't think it would be worth the cost.


----------



## Ecstacy

Put heatsinks from my VGA cooler onto my WRT54GS. It runs much cooler and I can crank the wireless TX power to 251mw.


----------



## TheBrowno

How much would it cost to put a laptop in a peli case?


----------



## Scott1541

I would like to introduce my new invention....... The Ghetcool


----------



## ML241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> How much would it cost to put a laptop in a peli case?


Probably $100+ for the case and plexiglass. More than I want to spend on it (today).


----------



## Sparocool

E-Atx mobo in an Antec case and a H80 in a 92mm slot why not...


----------



## ML241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparocool*
> 
> 
> E-Atx mobo in an Antec case and a H80 in a 92mm slot why not...


Is that the all riveted case where the back panel wont come out for cable management?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I would like to introduce my new invention....... The Ghetcool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How does it hold up under high temps?


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> How does it hold up under high temps?


I haven't really used it at high temps yet as I'm still trying to get a stable OC but my i5 won't go over 80°C at 4.5GHz/1.3V. Before it was hitting over 85°C at 4.5GHz/1.29V so it seems to cool slightly better than it would without the 'skirt' on the side and taped up


----------



## Sparocool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ML241*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sparocool*
> 
> 
> E-Atx mobo in an Antec case and a H80 in a 92mm slot why not...
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the all riveted case where the back panel wont come out for cable management?
Click to expand...

That's the one, the side panel comes off but there is no room to do any thing... But I had to change the set up a little because something shorted and blew up the H80...


----------



## hakz

Ghetcool ftw!


----------



## Aleslammer

Scythe Ultra Kaze 3000 120x38mm mounted on a Thermaltake Volcano 11 for some quick air cooling on a socket A 2600+ Barton. 80mm fan has the motor and blades removed.



Cleaned the dust out of HS!


----------



## furyn9

Best thread ever


----------



## MCCSolutions

LOLZ







From some of my builds:


----------



## linuxfueled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> What happens when your little brother decides to play too aggressively near your computer and sloshes that tank just a little...?


My little brother would be about 41 The fish in the tank idea is funny though!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

WHAT is the first IDEA comes to mind when u guys see this ! ITS 24VDC 1.1A and MAKE NOISE LIKE A BLADE MASTER fan of the hyper 212+ i just got it about an hour ago ANY IDEAS ''extreme exhaust extractor? "" XD. Its bigger than a 120mm fan


----------



## SteevyT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> WHAT is the first IDEA comes to mind when u guys see this ! ITS 24VDC 1.1A and MAKE NOISE LIKE A BLADE MASTER fan of the hyper 212+ i just got it about an hour ago ANY IDEAS ''extreme exhaust extractor? "" XD. Its bigger than a 120mm fan
> -snip-


Mount it to your heatsink?


----------



## HPE1000

finger grinder if you aren't safe, all I gotta say.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> finger grinder if you aren't safe, all I gotta say.


haha true true im gunna make a extractor with it so it can carry the heat out side my room what my rig pushes out . ill post picts when i get the foil tubing thingy


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteevyT*
> 
> Mount it to your heatsink?


haha I NOW RAN 12v and pointed it at my vrms and i saw my temps dropping i was like HELL YEAH then i remembered how the fk is this gunna FIT in the case xD


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> LOLZ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From some of my builds:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy Pics! I have a leaking RX120 (wasn't paying attention and screwed right into it), might have try what you did to fix it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> LOLZ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From some of my builds:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Holy Pics! I have a leaking RX120 (wasn't paying attention and screwed right into it), might have try what you did to fix it.


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> WHAT is the first IDEA comes to mind when u guys see this ! ITS 24VDC 1.1A and MAKE NOISE LIKE A BLADE MASTER fan of the hyper 212+ i just got it about an hour ago ANY IDEAS ''extreme exhaust extractor? "" XD. Its bigger than a 120mm fan


It's obviously a turbocharger to make your PC run faster.


----------



## TLHarrell

Marty McFly style hover conversion?


----------



## Jaren1

I never thought it was possible to cringe so much at once. Bravo everybody. I really enjoy this thread:thumb:


----------



## BgG286

So this racing simulator I play constantly just got a Rally track. I love it to death and find myself using the handbrake alot in it. Problem is, it's mapped to a button on the wheel which gets pretty hard to find and press when you're turning the wheel. Being the "modder" that I am, I decided I'd make a handbrake.....
I used an old power supply case, an R/C antenna, tape, and R/C servo box, a spring, some wires, and an XBOX 360 controller that had a broken trigger, and random crap I found around the house. I think it's a masterpiece, and it works great too.


----------



## HPE1000

Nice! And I was just recently talking about how I would love Logitech to make a g27 with a handbrake as I love drifting and everything.


----------



## WhatWoodJudasDo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BgG286*
> 
> So this racing simulator I play constantly just got a Rally track. I love it to death and find myself using the handbrake alot in it. Problem is, it's mapped to a button on the wheel which gets pretty hard to find and press when you're turning the wheel. Being the "modder" that I am, I decided I'd make a handbrake.....
> I used an old power supply case, an R/C antenna, tape, and R/C servo box, a spring, some wires, and an XBOX 360 controller that had a broken trigger, and random crap I found around the house. I think it's a masterpiece, and it works great too.


THAT IS AMAZING!!!!! thats one of the things kinda holding me back about getting a wheel...

Very nice...Well I mean it looks like ass, but the idea.....Nice


----------



## BgG286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhatWoodJudasDo*
> 
> THAT IS AMAZING!!!!! thats one of the things kinda holding me back about getting a wheel...
> 
> Very nice...Well I mean it looks like ass, but the idea.....Nice


Well for $0.00 what more can I ask?


----------



## TLHarrell

I would at least consider doing something with the metal edges so you don't bring your hand down on them while racing. Cover plate or some U-channel or at least some duct tape.


----------



## MrDucktape

MrDucktape reporting for duty!


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> MrDucktape reporting for duty!


Imposter!

We need MrDucttape, not MrDucktape


----------



## Terrere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> MrDucktape reporting for duty!


Not gonna lie, your name is perfect for this conversation!


----------



## TB13

I went down to my local Goodwill today and bought a MSI K8N Neo4/SLI, but it had no cooler... Let the Ghetto rigging begin!

I rummaged through my drawers and found a 775 cooler, Chopped the pegs off the bottom and cut up the side to fit over the caps next to the CPU



With that done I need a way to hold it in place. I rummaged throught my drawer again and found some expansion covers, perfect. I bent them and put some screws in the middle to keep them together.





And Walaha! A CPU cooler! Threw a 140mm fan in the case to cool the CPU and it works like a charm!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

AWESOME!!! am i seeing correct the middle is hollow? THE HS


----------



## HPE1000

No they aren't hollow.


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> AWESOME!!! am i seeing correct the middle is hollow? THE HS


Thanks! It is hollow at the top then it curves in to make a kind of pot like thing.



The screws fall down into it keeping the bracket from falling off when you remove the cooler.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Holy Pics! I have a leaking RX120 (wasn't paying attention and screwed right into it), might have try what you did to fix it.


Yea it works fine, just clean the whole with a wire brush, heat off trash and paint with torch then solder the clean surface. Do a blow test to confirm its not leaking....


----------



## MCCSolutions

More for ya!







my 32" TV plus 5 17" monitors for my "Fatal" build!


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> More for ya!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my 32" TV plus 5 17" monitors for my "Fatal" build!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow...


----------



## HPE1000

Feel sorry for you the day screws rip out of their place.


----------



## Scott1541

Just wait until the whole thing falls on you when your ghetto fixings come loose


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Feel sorry for you the day screws rip out of their place.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Just wait until the whole thing falls on you when your ghetto fixings come loose


lol


----------



## Paradigm84

Was bored so I tried ghetto rigging some fans next to the GPU, but then I took them off as the stock fans from the H100 are loud without a fan controller.


----------



## MCCSolutions

^ Any changes in temps yet?^


----------



## Scott1541

This isn't new, but I've not showed it here yet. My 'bench', if you could even call it that. It's basically a piece of chipboard with the motherboard screwed on


----------



## Eudisld15

Zip tied my Antec Kuhler 620 to my cpu. Its holding on pretty well. I'm paranoid right now lmao. I feel that the zip ties are gunna break off because they are literally being pulled to their limit. Its temporary though, I order replacements for the mounting.

I seem to have misplaced my mounting adapters for my Kuhler 620 back plate....I didn't notice until I was already installing it








I didn't feel like reinstalling my old heatsink and it was literally 7am in the morning right after work too, so my judgement wasn't so...lucid.

Don't have pictures atm, will upload later!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> Was bored so I tried ghetto rigging some fans next to the GPU, but then I took them off as the stock fans from the H100 are loud without a fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Temps? If the fans are PWM, and you have spare PWM headers on the mobo, hook them up that way. Doesn't look bad actually.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> This isn't new, but I've not showed it here yet. My 'bench', if you could even call it that. It's basically a piece of chipboard with the motherboard screwed on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Spray paint the board black and it'll look legit.


----------



## Paradigm84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> Was bored so I tried ghetto rigging some fans next to the GPU, but then I took them off as the stock fans from the H100 are loud without a fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps? If the fans are PWM, and you have spare PWM headers on the mobo, hook them up that way. Doesn't look bad actually.
Click to expand...

I had the side panel off so I didn't really take note of temps, I just tried it because I was bored.









But now that I have a fan controller, maybe I should try it.


----------



## mironccr345

^^ Yes you should!


----------



## bluedevil

This thread makes my head shake......


----------



## Paradigm84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> ^^ Yes you should!


I'll have to find some more cable ties then.


----------



## Noskcaj

Have a look at my volenti (link in my sig), not quite ghetto enough yet, but soon.


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Just messing around with my old Dell Dimension 3000. Still going strong since 01-2005 and after a few inexpensive upgrades.
Good for web browsing, music and Youtube in 480p or lower, nothing more.

Oh, and having an 80mm fan strapped to it because i refuse to pay for a Socket 478 Cooler in 2013!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> I'll have to find some more cable ties then.


OR you can just put the 680 under water.


----------



## Paradigm84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> I'll have to find some more cable ties then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR you can just put the 680 under water.
Click to expand...

But that would break it. D:


----------



## JCG

I had it like this for a couple of months before getting a case


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

This is my Ghetto-cooling monitor. I had an old ATI RAGE 64 MB graphics card with 7 burst capacitors (wow!), so I took the fan out, and grilled cheese on the card, and used the fan for my high-tech advanced monitor cooling system.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> But that would break it. D:


Fine, oil.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> But that would break it. D:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Fine, oil.


Crisco.


----------



## animal0307

Here is my ghetto external rad stand.


----------



## MCCSolutions

^^^ THATS PIMP!!! JUST PIMP!!! ^^^


----------



## diesel678




----------



## Eudisld15

Finally got around uploading the pictures! Zip ties zip ties! Not a screw in sight...notice the Cooler Master Evo backplate


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got around uploading the pictures! Zip ties zip ties! Not a screw in sight...notice the Cooler Master Evo backplate


Is that even reliable and making proper contact with the CPU? How come that cooler doesnt fit properly in the first place?


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoisonousRakija*
> 
> Is that even reliable and making proper contact with the CPU? How come that cooler doesnt fit properly in the first place?


I didn't have the mount adapters for its original back plate. It was making contact but the TIM was ruined when I tried zipping it all up. Its only temporary because the adapter just came on the mail today so no harm done!

Next step is to wait for the Bracket adapter from TripTCC for my 7950 to come in so I cab slap on my second Antec Kuhler on it.


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> I didn't have the mount adapters for its original back plate. It was making contact but the TIM was ruined when I tried zipping it all up. Its only temporary because the adapter just came on the mail today so no harm done!
> 
> Next step is to wait for the Bracket adapter from TripTCC for my 7950 to come in so I cab slap on my second Antec Kuhler on it.


At least you got the adapter now


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*


LOL WUT
PENS


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*


I believe this to be outstanding. Great work.


----------



## MCCSolutions

^^ out"STAND"ing" LOL







Yea it is freaking awesomeness though


----------



## Dav3ric

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JCG*
> 
> 
> 
> I had it like this for a couple of months before getting a case






One bad sneeze could be a disaster.


----------



## lurker2501

new psu placement


----------



## wsjackson5

I've posted this before, while I was painting the rest of my case.....


----------



## Paradigm84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> new psu placement
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's an awesome idea!

If you do that then you could fit a giant rad in the bottom of the HAF-X.


----------



## smartguy044

this is what i have while i get my mac g5 case ready. im a android developer and need my desktop running


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> new psu placement
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that really frees up the bottom of the case for a pretty thick rad. Of course the HDD cage has to go or be modified. Any reason why the new PSU placement?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Wow, that really frees up the bottom of the case for a pretty thick rad. Of course the HDD cage has to go or be modified. Any reason why the new PSU placement?


fast ON/OFF switch at the front of the case.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> fast ON/OFF switch at the front of the case.


Smart!


----------



## lurker2501

It's not mine but I thought I'd share this piece of art in here:


----------



## mironccr345

Whoa! What's the temp diff? If you know it?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Wow thats awesome XD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> It's not mine but I thought I'd share this piece of art in here:


----------



## hakz

that's an exhaust, right?


----------



## mironccr345

^^ by the orientation of the fan, I would say yes.


----------



## _TRU_

needed to drop a few °c for CC

classic


----------



## Jump3r

How about when 1500W isnt enough?

You just use a 1000W strider and run the 1500 Strider though the door to power the GPU's (ohh wait i threw away the door)

And yes that is a Thermaltake 6000 armor case only i pained it black.


----------



## m1919

Ghetto'd a pair of fans behind the SCSI bay in my retro Xeon rig. Drives were pushing 55C under load without them, now they top out at 40. Case is a Kingwin KT424-BW I modded to inverted-ATX, for obvious reasons.


----------



## Fierce legend

Don't spill your coffee geez


----------



## Imprezzion

Lots of things needed ghetto-ing on my rig







Lets start with my poor poor GPU.

First of all, excuse me for the crappy photo's. My Xperia T seems to dislike the blue light from my many Enermaxes A LOT and won't properly focus / looks grainy....

My poor Club3D Reference HD7970 needed some more cooling for the epic OC i'm running on her...

1.300v VDDC on the core (Max what software allows) and 1.638v MVDDC on the VRAM. THis gives me 1310Mhz core and 1750Mhz VRAM 24/7 stable to run, and 1325-1340Mhz core and 1800Mhz VRAM in benchmarks.

Now, i'm using a Accelero Xtreme 7970 on her I had laying around from my other, dead, HD7970... That died due to the VRM cooling that comes with the Accelero being seriously crappy...
VRM's hit well in excess of 100c at 1.300v so I decided to buy a MSI TF3 OC/BE HD7970. Well, that came with a XT2 Ghz chip which are basically just total crap for overclocking so I bought a secondhand Club3D which I knew was a good OCer doing 1250Mhz on stock VDDC in BTC mining...

So, I took both cards, the 4 day old MSI, and the Club3D apart.. The MSI has a great VRM / VRAM cooling baseplate that covers the entire card so I stole that off of the MSI and bolted it to the Club3D. Then, I bolted the Reference AMD cooler from the Club3D on the MSI card as it has a reference PCB. Now, tested that first, ran fine on 1.300v core and 1.625v VRAM on 1210Mhz core and 1675Mhz VRAM. Max temps of about 75c core and 65c VRAM with the Reference cooler, but SO LOUD... Well, basically ended up selling that card for €100 less then it costs new while it was like, 4 days old...

Back to the Club3D which now had the baseplate of the TF3 on it but no core cooling yet. I decided to see if the Accelero would even fit with the baseplate of the TF3, which it didn't... The inner bracket was within 1mm of touching the baseplate, but it JUST fit, however, the cooler itsself would hit the mount of the TF3 baseplate so I had to bend a whole row of fins to make it fit. It still touches it lightly, but fits in the mounting holes now. See pic below











Now, with the stock mounting of the Accelero I noticed very high temperatures cvause it was still lightly toucvhing the baseplate at some areas.. Temps idle were around 45c and loaded 80-85c on max volts. This indicated very poor core contact. So, I ripped off ALL the spacers on the mount and mounted it without spacers, ONLY using the foam pad and a 6mm thick piece of ArmaFlex as a ''spring'' underneath the external mounting bracket. This gave a very well adjustable core contact pressure by just tightning the screws more and compressing the ArmaFlex more or less. It mounted it such a way that the mounting brackets, internal and external, warp by about 1mm essentially working as springs now. This gives SUCH a ridiculously high pressure the ArmaFLex is now fused with the cards bottom and will NOT come off of it again. It's pressed onto the card SO hard the resistors and such are just completely stuck in it. Notice the angle of the bracket and lack of spacers in the pic below hahaha.



Also, core temps idle with 20c ambient are now 25c and fully loaded with 3DMark Fire Strike or 2 hours of BF3 @ Ultra the core averages at 56c with the occasional spike to 60c. I was pleasantly surprized!!

Well, Part 3 of the saga, I noticed that because the baseplate has large surface area but is completely flat without any cooling fins / ribs that the VRM temps would slowly keep rising to about 85-90c and stabilize there due to not being able t dissipate the heat efficiently. Nothing wrong with those VRM temps, not at all, but with the high ambients summer can bring here, 32-35c is no exception, I would like to lower it as much as possible... The stock Accelero's fan module is easily removable and even though there's 3 2000RPM fans, they are low-profile 80mm's... So, I ripped them off and ziptied 2 Scythe Slipstream 1600RPM 120MM's to the heatsink which I connected tot SYS_FAN_1 and SYS_FAN_4 on my motherboard. They are both set @ 100% in the BIOS and running at 1594 and 1612RPM.
This huuuge increase to 2x 88CFM airflow decreased VRM temps to a average 75c with the occasional spike to 78-79c @ 20C ambient. Also, it did miracles on my core temps now bringing them down to a whopping 48c average with the occasional spike to 52c under max load for hours on BF3... Remember, this is a max overvolted HD7970 which can consume up to 230w in this OC state and I can do sub 50c cooling ON AIR.





TBH, it amazes me that the thing still runs, since EVERYTHING is modded even the moutns, and all without any electrical protection against shorting or anything, but it works SO well..
Only one slight issue. It's one hell of a heavy ass thing now so when transporting my PC to a LAN or something now I definatly wanna remove the card from the slot..

Part 4 of the saga includes not the card, but my HDD bays.

I had the issue of the ends of the heatpipes touching my HDD bays and making it very hard to install - uninstall the card from the case. So, I drilled out the top bay as it isn't removable on my case, and removed the bottom bay. Took a angle grinder to the bottom bay and left ONLY the bottom most slot intact. Mounted my Samsung 500Gig F3 in there, and shoved both my SSD's UNDERNEATH the HDD in the leftover room since SSD's don't get hot anyway. Was one hell of a fiddle with the cables, but I made it and everything works like a charm and looks really slick! (Pics under here!)





Part 5. My H100i in push pull is very nice, but the stock 120mm's in push are noisy and ugly... In the top of my CM690 II Adv. B&W USB3 I have 2 Enermax Epollish 140mm 750RPM's which i'd want as push as well but that doesn't fit due to the boards heatsinks and RAM being too high.. Still have to figure out how i'm going to mod this, so that part 5 is the next part in my saga











Will work on this when I got my new black windowed sidepanels and the other Enermaxes which weren't in stock anymore









Some overall pics of my rig:


----------



## neo0031

The start of my ghetto-ness. Couldn't find rubber bands/etc. So some shoe laces I bought months back that were too big too use. I am too lazy to RMA stuff, so I'm glad these laces found a use...

Currently on the bay "floor" are some bubble wrap, in case the laces fail and decides to collapse one day.


----------



## lilchronic




----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That doesn't look that bad. Straiten out the pump and it's legit.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That doesn't look that bad. Straiten out the pump and it's legit.


im waiting for my cpu block and rad so i can finish up the loop


----------



## MCCSolutions

Some crazyness before I hid all my wireing on my "FATAL" Build....






Getto Compression O-Ring fitting:


----------



## lurker2501

Yes, this ancient MAG is my current monitor.


----------



## IDEK

This was my pc when I was 13.

I also delidded a P4 northwood a few weeks ago, and the cooler needed to pressed down, otherwise it would overheat, so I put the PSU on there, together with some other stuff. Damn shame I didnt take a pic. I do have pics of the delidded P4, if anyone's interested?


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Yes, this ancient MAG is my current monitor.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not really that ghetto to be honest, more retro


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Not really that ghetto to be honest, more retro


I was over the moon when this thing first turned on after almost 20+ without use. Mag XJ700e model with 85Hz max refresh rate and analog brightness calibration.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Yes, this ancient MAG is my current monitor.


I can dig it. Curious, did you purchase that monitor or find it in the attic?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I can dig it. Curious, did you purchase that monitor or find it in the attic?


I got it for free from some guy who had no use of it. It didn't even have a power cable so I had to buy a new one, as well as a dvi to vga adapter to be able to plug it in.


----------



## inVain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jump3r*
> 
> How about when 1500W isnt enough?
> 
> You just use a 1000W strider and run the 1500 Strider though the door to power the GPU's (ohh wait i threw away the door)
> 
> And yes that is a Thermaltake 6000 armor case only i pained it black.











never got the guts to do this kind of thing myself









nice job there


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I got it for free from some guy who had no use of it. It didn't even have a power cable so I had to buy a new one, as well as a dvi to vga adapter to be able to plug it in.


Ahh, nice! What were you rocking before the CRT monitor?


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Some crazyness before I hid all my wireing on my "FATAL" Build....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getto Compression O-Ring fitting:


That's a lot to hide.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> That's a lot to hide.


LOL! Already did for the most part

PIC:


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Ahh, nice! What were you rocking before the CRT monitor?


I had a 23" Samsung BX2335 which I had to sell due to horrible screen glare.


----------



## brandon88tube

My ghetto wind tunnel. It's made out of the Newegg box my 200mm fans came in. Attached is a protractor at the end to measure how far the piece of paper I have taped on the end raises.


----------



## EvoEryk

Zip Ties!!


----------



## Alatar

I think my mobo qualifies here:


----------



## theseopenfields

Is that... hot glue in the socket? I'm assuming that helps with condensation, right?


----------



## kevinf

http://www.fiftythree.org/etherkiller/

This guy is EPIC.


----------



## Rmerwede

This should be called the MacGuyver thread!


----------



## DeadGivaway

Back when I was rocking an Athlon XP 2100+, after about a year of unexplained BSODs, I figured out that the stock cooler was inadequate. Once it was replaced, I had this big aluminum heatsink just sitting there so I decided to use it on my graphics card. I bent the fins down into a sort of flower shape similar to some Zalman something I had seen at the time, and used zip ties to mount it and a fan on my graphics card at the time as it was more metal than the stock cooler for that. The zip ties allowed me to avoid buying adhesive TIM.

With modified cooling on both CPU and GPU, I started my first overclocking experiment. The process of enabling an overclock on the CPU itself was a ghetto-rigging process. I had to use superglue to close a laser-cut hole in the top of the CPU between the two pins that I had to short to enable lower multipliers. Then I used small pieces of tape to cover everything except the path of the trace I was creating. Finally, I used a "Rear window defogger repair kit" from an auto parts store to paint a conductive trace between the pins.

The GPU was much easier, only requiring ATItool or Rivatuner or somesuch. Final result: I was able to run the CPU FSB at 400Mhz instead of I think 266 at stock. I think I got only a 100Mhz OC out of the final CPU frequency, but the increased FSB was where it was at back then. I was also able to run my Geforce 4 TI 4200 at 4600 speed.

Oh yeah and I cut a terrible-looking hole in the top of my cheap case and put in a top exhaust fan. I think this was before any cases in stores had top exhausts (2003).


----------



## hawkeye071292

I hope some of you guys have good fire insurance...


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseopenfields*
> 
> Is that... hot glue in the socket? I'm assuming that helps with condensation, right?


dielectric grease


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> My ghetto wind tunnel. It's made out of the Newegg box my 200mm fans came in. Attached is a protractor at the end to measure how far the piece of paper I have taped on the end raises.


best matx case I've seen.


----------



## MrDucktape

Does my homemaid bench table classify as ghetto?


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does my homemaid bench table classify as ghetto?


Off topic: I want that graphics card...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> My ghetto wind tunnel. It's made out of the Newegg box my 200mm fans came in. Attached is a protractor at the end to measure how far the piece of paper I have taped on the end raises.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can we see this wind box in action?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvoEryk*
> 
> Zip Ties!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That actually looks like it's meant to be there.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> Built this years ago because I kept getting cut up by my ****ty old case
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/392861/the-box
> 
> I would post pics but no camera right now, but currently I have a 60mm fan zip tied to the inside of my case to blow air onto my vga heatsinks i put on my mosfets, zip tied my fan to the heatsink, and zip tied the fan controller into the drive bay (because my case uses tool-less brackets and they're lost)
> 
> also, the fan controller only uses molex plugs, so i clipped the wires to every fan I hooked up to it, and ripped the molex connectors off the fan controller, and twisted/electrical taped them all together.
> 
> But nothing will beat "the box"
> 
> I don't think I'd ever attempt that again.


THAT WAS AWESOME!


----------



## MrDucktape

Then you're gonna like this:


----------



## PR-Imagery

Very close fit + saggy 7970 + horribly designed mount for XFX 6670 cooler = clicking fan blades. Shoe lace to the rescue! Back of card got rather warm as well

(System has since been cleaned and rebuilt)


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very close fit + saggy 7970 + horribly designed mount for XFX 6670 cooler = clicking fan blades. Shoe lace to the rescue! Back of card got rather warm as well
> 
> (System has since been cleaned and rebuilt)


A very similar looking XFX 6670!!!!! (Mine is the XFX 6670 DDR3 2GB...) So rare to see something so similar...


----------



## Hand_Grenade

My server build, not pretty but at least it's easy to move it around.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> My server build, not pretty but at least it's easy to move it around.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Haha! I'm sorry, but I laughed out loud when I saw the epicness that is the basket...! This is epic!


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Can we see this wind box in action?


Sure, I'm in the middle of modifying it to make it a little better and have a way to add a filter to test how much that affects the airflow. I should have that done within the next day or two. Meanwhile, you can check out the videos in my post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1385561/200mm-fans/240#post_19953092


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> Then you're gonna like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That actually doesn't look bad at all. Why aren't you using the SSD?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very close fit + saggy 7970 + horribly designed mount for XFX 6670 cooler = clicking fan blades. Shoe lace to the rescue! Back of card got rather warm as well
> (System has since been cleaned and rebuilt)


At first I thought they were bungey cords, but shoe laces......now that's smart.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> My server build, not pretty but at least it's easy to move it around.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


LoL, Now I've seen it all. Very creative.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sure, I'm in the middle of modifying it to make it a little better and have a way to add a filter to test how much that affects the airflow. I should have that done within the next day or two. Meanwhile, you can check out the videos in my post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1385561/200mm-fans/240#post_19953092


Thanks! Going to check it out.


----------



## MrDucktape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That actually doesn't look bad at all. Why aren't you using the SSD?


Don't remember, probably I had a OS in that SSD and just wanted to test a bit the crossfire, as one of those cards is from my brother.


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Haha! I'm sorry, but I laughed out loud when I saw the epicness that is the basket...! This is epic!


I don't have to worry about overheating


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> I don't have to worry about overheating


Unless it catches on fire.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Unless it catches on fire.


Isn't that same with most things though... lol


----------



## TenzoMonk

best thread ever! i actually read through every single post!

hmmm, must be about 2 years now for this. but HATED my NZXT M59 case... so i turned it into a tech bench. this was the "temp" setup.



and the bench after done (actually didn't use it too long... bought a CM storm trooper). but still great when needing to test or work on something!


----------



## TenzoMonk

LOL... and i found this (while the M59 was still together).

ASUS vrm/chipset slot cooler... and duct tape roll (before i had "clips" for the other fan)!


----------



## Seredin

This might fit in this thread...


----------



## HPE1000

Diggin your pokemon pedometer, mine is packed away somewhere


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> This might fit in this thread...


wut is that


----------



## Seredin

It's a toshiba satellite, dell monitor, a crappy 2.1 system, and a good movie on a college dorm desk about 2 years ago.
Morrowind didn't play nice with vista, fried my onboard monitor connection to the motherboard (literally, charred), and I subsequently removed that monitor so I didn't have to **** my head sideways whenever I did anything. That setup worked for me for almost 4 years.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> This might fit in this thread...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that's smart. Looks cool too.


----------



## Seredin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Now that's smart. Looks cool too.


Honestly, if it weren't such dated hardware, I would never had replaced it.


----------



## streetstyle55

Some interesting setups here bahhaha. First post is definitely unsafe

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## streetstyle55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> My ghetto wind tunnel. It's made out of the Newegg box my 200mm fans came in. Attached is a protractor at the end to measure how far the piece of paper I have taped on the end raises.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> best matx case I've seen.
Click to expand...

This insane lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seredin*
> 
> This might fit in this thread...


lebowski on the screen.  I like!


----------



## crappy

I'm using an old shoe lace to hold my res in place.


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetstyle55*
> 
> This insane lol


Why, thank you ;D


----------



## Eaglake

So my grandpa's PC was broken and I had to repair it.
Simptoms: Couldn't turn on, MB light on...
Diagnose: Dead MB
Work: Replace MB

So while I was swapping out MB's I catched this little rascal... heh, could use him as my new board ;D or case as his bed.


Anyways, When I swapped the MB's I noticed that the original cooler on that board was broken, so I took SB cooling from the old board and put it on the new board, but then there was some clearance issues, so I had to figure out a way to blow air there.
That HS got really, really hot and I'm sure it needs a fan blowing on it.


----------



## Pebruska

Cute and what is it with cats and boxes?


----------



## psarandis

Mouse broke down, searched the net a bit and found out that the roccats have weak mousewheels. (should have checked before i bought it







)
So, screw & a drop of instant glue and here it is.


----------



## mironccr345

How's it holding up?


----------



## Truedeal

Although Not computer Related, I think I have a good one.

: 









Its my beta enclosure testing before I get serious.


----------



## psarandis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> How's it holding up?


Scrolling is smooth and the few middle clicks i did work ok. Let's hope it stays that way.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Although Not computer Related, I think I have a good one.
> :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its my beta enclosure testing before I get serious.


haha, there nothing wrong with that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psarandis*
> 
> Scrolling is smooth and the few middle clicks i did work ok. Let's hope it stays that way.


Sweet deal. Why didn't you RMA it?


----------



## Im Batman

Last I did was after chucking an aftermarket cooler on my 6970 (the stock fans had given up) I was concerned about the bending of the card from the extra weight so I found some fishing line and suspended it from the top of the case.


----------



## Bahlzeron

I once put an old Pentium 3 system (600mhz if I recall) in an empty Rolling Rock 12 pack... simply because I could. I should have taken pics of it. I've got a couple other ingenious ghetto mods for controlling airflow I gotta take pics of.. I'll get those up later though.


----------



## mironccr345

That would have been fun to see.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Although Not computer Related, I think I have a good one.
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its my beta enclosure testing before I get serious.


How it sound?


----------



## psarandis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Sweet deal. Why didn't you RMA it?


The awful truth: I was a bit drunk and felt adventurous


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> How it sound?


It would sound better with an actual port instead of just a square hole.

I just got it sounding its best yesterday, after creating a simple passive crossover for all the drivers.

In all honesty, It sounds excellent for what it is.


----------



## Bouj

Out of everywhere on overclock I felt this would be the best place to share my story. So I bought a 7950, the Vapor-X Sapphire version which obviously has a custom PCB. However, at the time I bought it I wasn't thinking and in the effort to make things look nice I bought an EK-FC7950 which is designed for a reference PCB... oops. After about an hour and a half of staring, shifting, unscrewing, rescrewing, and talking it over with a friend I finally gave in and decided to leave it alone for a little bit. I sat down at my desk that night and noticed a roll of electrical tape. I've used so much electrical tape in my system whether it be for cable management or holding a fan down because I lost a screw. I figured why not try it with the back plate? So, after a little tape and some crafty tape management I was able to secure the plate down well enough to survive some standard GPU handling as well as a little more (I may have shook it a little just to make sure







). Now I have a nice and clean looking system and didn't waste any money









Cheers everyone!
Connor "Bouj"


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouj*
> 
> Out of everywhere on overclock I felt this would be the best place to share my story. So I bought a 7950, the Vapor-X Sapphire version which obviously has a custom PCB. However, at the time I bought it I wasn't thinking and in the effort to make things look nice I bought an EK-FC7950 which is designed for a reference PCB... oops. After about an hour and a half of staring, shifting, unscrewing, rescrewing, and talking it over with a friend I finally gave in and decided to leave it alone for a little bit. I sat down at my desk that night and noticed a roll of electrical tape. I've used so much electrical tape in my system whether it be for cable management or holding a fan down because I lost a screw. I figured why not try it with the back plate? So, after a little tape and some crafty tape management I was able to secure the plate down well enough to survive some standard GPU handling as well as a little more (I may have shook it a little just to make sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Now I have a nice and clean looking system and didn't waste any money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers everyone!
> Connor "Bouj"


This I gotta see, any pics?


----------



## mironccr345

Yes please. I'd like to see what it looks like what all that tape.


----------



## lurker2501

sli diy cooling


----------



## mironccr345

^^ haha, how much better were you're temps? I only added one fan and the temps went down about 2-3c.


----------



## lurker2501

Around ten degree difference.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Around ten degree difference.


not bad.


----------



## Xylene

2010 Mac mini. Power button was jammed and you can't get a replacement.


----------



## Bouj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> This I gotta see, any pics?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Yes please. I'd like to see what it looks like what all that tape.






I outlined all the tape with a little blue to make them more visible.

I took another look at the entire tape job and cut down a little on the tape. I think it looks pretty good for something I thought of at 12:30 in the night.


----------



## tDAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> My ghetto wind tunnel. It's made out of the Newegg box my 200mm fans came in. Attached is a protractor at the end to measure how far the piece of paper I have taped on the end raises.


A ghetto wind tunnel under $30 bucks? sold lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bouj*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I outlined all the tape with a little blue to make them more visible.
> 
> 
> 
> I took another look at the entire tape job and cut down a little on the tape. I think it looks pretty good for something I thought of at 12:30 in the night.


Eh, didn't look as bad as I thought it would.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> 
> 2010 Mac mini. Power button was jammed and you can't get a replacement.


HAPPY B-DAY!!!!!!!











http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Mac-Mini-A1347-Front-Bezel-w-Power-Button-and-Cables-/281109103862?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41736884f6


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Or he can just bridge the two wires together with his fingers...


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Or he can just bridge the two wires together with his fingers...


Personally I would have just installed a pressure contact switch in the same whole for 20 Cents!


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Or he can just bridge the two wires together with his fingers...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Personally I would have just installed a pressure contact switch in the same whole for 20 Cents!


He owns a mac, he obviously doesn't care about paying more money than its worth.


----------



## MrDucktape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> He owns a mac, he obviously doesn't care about paying more money than its worth.


Woow, that's a burn and a half!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> He owns a mac, he obviously doesn't care about paying more money than its worth.


LOL SO TRUE!


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> He owns a mac, he obviously doesn't care about paying more money than its worth.


I got it for free from a scrap pile. BOOYA!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> I got it for free from a scrap pile. BOOYA!


WIN! I guess it would deserve a $20 power button then. I used to do the same thing, almost all the computers I have ever found at the dump worked just fine, some had viruses, but most just needed the ram reseated or a new PSU. Always somthing small!


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> WIN! I guess it would deserve a $20 power button then. I used to do the same thing, almost all the computers I have ever found at the dump worked just fine, some had viruses, but most just needed the ram reseated or a new PSU. Always somthing small!


Not worth the effort. It just stays on 24/7. I threw a 120GB Corsair F120 (which I also got free) in it and it already had 8GB RAM and I run my netboot from it.


----------



## Eaglake

I'm in process of making a portable speaker system...
We are checking sound level and how long can an almost empty battery hold











We are going to use speakers from old Samsung PS940E
and also custom box, which should be produced as a +-bakpack style, maybe we will add a beer holder at the sides...









*The speaker in first picture are JVC


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> I'm in process of making a portable speaker system...
> We are checking sound level and how long can an almost empty battery hold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are going to use speakers from old Samsung PS940E
> and also custom box, which should be produced as a +-bakpack style, maybe we will add a beer holder at the sides...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The speaker in first picture are JVC


Wow, nice. I've also got some spare subs/speakers from some old 5.1 surround systems and tempted to try something similar myself. Where did you get the amp from btw?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eaglake*
> 
> I'm in process of making a portable speaker system...
> We are checking sound level and how long can an almost empty battery hold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We are going to use speakers from old Samsung PS940E
> and also custom box, which should be produced as a +-bakpack style, maybe we will add a beer holder at the sides...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The speaker in first picture are JVC


Nice! And yes, what kind of amp is that?


----------



## Pawelr98

Ghetto pump silencing

Also ghetto modified stock backplate to fit with waterblock.




And for a few days I had this.

A 92mm (fan zize is 92mm but mounting is 80mm) added with tape.Then replaced it with 120mm fan.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! And yes, what kind of amp is that?


http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_e_1

Mini t amp. Bought one for my brother, sound is not bad but there is no balance. 10 watts at 8 ohms, and the wall wart is too weak for 4 ohms at rated wattage. Still, not bad for $20.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Cooler with ice inside. PC fans = portable AC


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_e_1
> 
> Mini t amp. Bought one for my brother, sound is not bad but there is no balance. 10 watts at 8 ohms, and the wall wart is too weak for 4 ohms at rated wattage. Still, not bad for $20.


It says 20W, so does that mean 2x 10w speakers should work since there's 2 channels? Sorry im a speaker noob


----------



## Blaze0303

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Cooler with ice inside. PC fans = portable AC


Thats soooo awesome


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_e_1
> Mini t amp. Bought one for my brother, sound is not bad but there is no balance. 10 watts at 8 ohms, and the wall wart is too weak for 4 ohms at rated wattage. Still, not bad for $20.


Thanks for that. I'm a noob when it comes to audiophile stuff. +BroRep









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Cooler with ice inside. PC fans = portable AC


I need to make one for the beach!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoisonousRakija*
> 
> It says 20W, so does that mean 2x 10w speakers should work since there's 2 channels? Sorry im a speaker noob


It's 20 watts per speaker at 4 ohms, or 10 watts per speaker for 8 ohms. Since most all speakers are 8 ohms, yes. And if you're wondering, 10 watts is damn loud. More than enough.


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> It's 20 watts per speaker at 4 ohms, or 10 watts per speaker for 8 ohms. Since most all speakers are 8 ohms, yes. And if you're wondering, 10 watts is damn loud. More than enough.


That amp would not suffice the tower of powa.










:


----------



## nvidiaftw12

The tower of powa is a piece of junk. xD

Also, it probably would.


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> It's 20 watts per speaker at 4 ohms, or 10 watts per speaker for 8 ohms. Since most all speakers are 8 ohms, yes. And if you're wondering, 10 watts is damn loud. More than enough.


Fair enough. i need a better understanding on 'ohms' and stuff but i'll do that later. I think i've seen that AMP on eBay before for pretty cheap, but i've got a spare amp from my old 25w 5.1 speaker set which i could use for my project whenever i start it. What happens if the speakers you use are more Watts than the Amp? Again, noob question


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoisonousRakija*
> 
> Fair enough. i need a better understanding on 'ohms' and stuff but i'll do that later. I think i've seen that AMP on eBay before for pretty cheap, but i've got a spare amp from my old 25w 5.1 speaker set which i could use for my project whenever i start it. What happens if the speakers you use are more Watts than the Amp? Again, noob question



Think of electrical current like a river. Amperage is how wide the current is, voltage is the speed. You can run a lot of water (watts) through a small river if it's fast enough or slowly if the river is wide enough. Ohms is the unit for measuring resistance. Think of resistance like a neck down in the river.
When you lower the resistance, say from 8 ohms to 4 ohms, it is twice as easy to give it power. So that is why it is 20 watts on 4 ohms and 10 on 8.
The speakers can not use more wattage than the amplifier can provide. If you turn the amplifier above the point where it would deliver 10 watts, it will clip. Wikipedia can probably explain it as well as I. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipping


----------



## Noskcaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Cooler with ice inside. PC fans = portable AC


Can you do the little extra to make that a volenti?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice! And yes, what kind of amp is that?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=pd_sim_e_1
> 
> Mini t amp. Bought one for my brother, sound is not bad but there is no balance. 10 watts at 8 ohms, and the wall wart is too weak for 4 ohms at rated wattage. Still, not bad for $20.
Click to expand...

I found this amplifier at OCN in audio section, that's why I bought it.

The speakers I'm going to run are rated at 6Ω
Anyway's that amp is plenty enough for what I'm going to use it.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

So this happened to my 460 2win. So...








I did this.


----------



## iinversion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> 
> 
> So this happened to my 460 2win. So...
> 
> -snip-
> 
> I did this.


This is amazing. The same thing happened to a 560Ti I have laying around... I think I'm going to rig up something like that too!


----------



## ghostrider85

is this ghetto enough? i did this in preparation for foldathon, dropped my GPU temps 10 degrees while keeping the GPU fan speed low, lol.

http://s1032.photobucket.com/user/Marckrause999/media/20130616_003834_zpsb73b0925.jpg.html


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> is this ghetto enough? i did this in preparation for foldathon, dropped my GPU temps 10 degrees while keeping the GPU fan speed low, lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1032.photobucket.com/user/Marckrause999/media/20130616_003834_zpsb73b0925.jpg.html


What kind of plastic did you use?


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> What kind of plastic did you use?


2 litre coke bottle.


----------



## nX3NTY

Ghetto full speed fan mod on laptop. The fan runs way too slow for my liking so I tap a direct 5V from USB to the fan and it runs at full tilt













Ghetto soundcard mods. I don't use 3.5mm jack and needs RCA jack but I hate adapters, solution? Solder the RCA jack to adjacent slot and walla







You can see ghetto EMI shield by the use of anti static bag covering the PCI slots


----------



## TheBrowno

You must have mad soldering skills to solder onto pc PCB's


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> You must have mad soldering skills to solder onto pc PCB's


No mad soldering skill, I'm just mad enough to do it


----------



## PR-Imagery

Not really rigging but a discarded heatsink makes a great note/paper holder


----------



## lurker2501

Continuing the retro theme, here's my new mouse to compliment my super vintage monitor


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Not really rigging but a discarded heatsink makes a great note/paper holder


You win the thread. I now have a use for all of those North bridge heatsinks I've been saving for "just in case"


----------



## MrDucktape

I just saw the other day a use similar to this, it was a heatsink card holder.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I love this thread so much. My only ghetto mod was drilling two holes by the VGA port in my laptop, because otherwise the cable would just sit there and droop and I was afraid the pins would get damaged. I did not approve.







Other than that, does a housing for two USB hubs, cables, and an optical drive made out of Lego parts count?


----------



## Paradigm84

So, I heard some of you like ghetto rigging?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Killing them temps.


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> So, I heard some of you like ghetto rigging?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Killing them temps.


Nice.


----------



## Paradigm84

Oh, and those are elastic bands holding them in place by the way, I can't find my cable-ties.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

i had some free time on my hands and made this alot of people have done it all ready!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

what are some good uses for these >


----------



## Fizzle22

If it don't fit on the inside, put it on the outside.



Failed to take into account the size of the CPU cooler.


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> The tower of powa is a piece of junk. xD
> 
> Also, it probably would.


I hate it when people don't understand how much power you actually need to run a speaker.

People don't seem to understand that when you crank up your stock car stereo, it gets loud as hell, and it is only maybe 100 watts RMS across 4-6 speakers. Hmm.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> I hate it when people don't understand how much power you actually need to run a speaker.
> 
> People don't seem to understand that when you crank up your stock car stereo, it gets loud as hell, and it is only maybe 10 watts RMS across 4-6 speakers. Hmm.


FTFY. But yeah, people think that they need these hella big amps. Speakers are efficient. Your ears will be hurting well before that thing maxes out.


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> FTFY. But yeah, people think that they need these hella big amps. Speakers are efficient. Your ears will be hurting well before that thing maxes out.


No, most stock car stereos are around 100 watts these days, unless you are buying the fancy stereo option.


----------



## PR-Imagery

I've always heard speakers are terribly inefficient...


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> I've always heard speakers are terribly inefficient...


You can get speakers that put out 90-100 db measured with 1 watt @ 1 meter. Most of them are in the 80ish range.

The problem is, for every 3db on average, you need to double the power. Every 3db is doubling the sound output. This adds up REAL fast.

Quote:


> Power -- Speaker 1 -- Speaker 2 -- Speaker 3
> 01 Watt -- 87 dB ---- 90 dB
> 
> 93 dB
> 02 Watt -- 90 dB ---- 93 dB
> 
> 96 dB
> 04 Watt -- 93 dB ---- 96 dB
> 
> 99 dB
> 08 Watt -- 96 dB ---- 99 dB
> 
> 102 dB
> 16 Watt -- 99 dB ---- 102 dB
> 
> 105 dB
> 32 Watt -- 102 dB ---- 105 dB
> 
> 108 dB
> 64 Watt -- 105 dB ---- 108 dB
> 
> 111 dB
> 128 Watt -- 108 dB ---- 111 dB
> 
> 114 dB
> 256 Watt -- 111 dB ---- 114 dB
> 
> 117 dB


http://everything2.com/title/Speaker+efficiency

For some reason that copypasta'd wierd and I can't get rid of the lines. Anyways, just assume the one that wraps around is the "speaker 3" from the previous row. Or just click the link.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> No, most stock car stereos are around 100 watts these days, unless you are buying the fancy stereo option.


Hmm. I'm used to much weaker ones.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> You can get speakers that put out 90-100 db measured with 1 watt @ 1 meter. Most of them are in the 80ish range.
> 
> The problem is, for every 3db on average, you need to double the power. Every 3db is doubling the sound output. This adds up REAL fast.
> http://everything2.com/title/Speaker+efficiency
> 
> For some reason that copypasta'd wierd and I can't get rid of the lines. Anyways, just assume the one that wraps around is the "speaker 3" from the previous row. Or just click the link.


Klipsch has some 111DB efficiency speakers but they're pricey.

Also, I always thought it was 10 more decibels, 10x the power. But maybe not. And that each additional speaker only netted one DB, not 3.


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Hmm. I'm used to much weaker ones.
> Klipsch has some 111DB efficiency speakers but they're pricey.
> 
> Also, I always thought it was 10 more decibels, 10x the power. But maybe not. And that each additional speaker only netted one DB, not 3.


Roughly speaking, whatever you double gives you double everything else. If you want to double the power, you get +3db, or double the spl. If you want to double the SPL, you need to double the power. Doubling the surface area requires double the power to drive, but also results in another 3db.

I don't know the math on adding more speakers, but I am nearly positive that it doesn't flat out double the volume. I don't think it even results in much more volume at all. Don't bother using google and reading forums... it is full of idiots who think they can run like 75 speakers and get 300 db from 20 watts. Or people who are like "well you don't get double the SPL, but you do get +3db"... every 3db IS double the spl. Car stereo forums are almost worthless for this kind of information.

There is a nice calculator somewhere that lets you get estimated SPL levels from multiple speakers and different wattages and stuff. It assumes by default that if you add another speaker, you add corresponding wattage to it. If you say put in 2 10" speakers at 100w, then double the speakers.... it assumes again another 100w. If you cut the base wattage to 50 so the TOTAL is 100w, you will find the SPL is given as the same as the first two speakers at 100w. Simple fact is that you need to provide the power.

Doubling the surface area only helps increase a speaker's ability to produce low end frequencies at spl levels we can hear. For higher frequencies, the effect seems to be lost. Basically, you have to move more air around for the human ear to pick up lower tones more efficiently. This is why 10" subs have a really hard time hitting as low as a big 15".

At any rate, +3db = double the SPL (sound pressure level, which is basically a fancy version of db), which costs double the wattage. And peak power measurements are LOL.

It was always my favorite thing to roll around with this 600 rms sony xplod amp hooked up to two 15" MA Audio subs. They got loud as hell, people would be like "

DAMN MAN YOU GOT LIKE THREE THOUSAND WATTS BRO?

Or, if I told them I was running "600 watts", others would be like 'PFFT BRO THATS WEAK I RUN TWO THOUSAND" and then they show me their Pyle Audio amp, rated for something stupid like 2kw peak @18v x 1ohm with 10% THD... while they run 4 ohm speakers in series at 12.8v... Yeah, good luck with that 200 rms bro.

I facepalmed every time.


----------



## Paradigm84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> No, most stock car stereos are around 100 watts these days, unless you are buying the fancy stereo option.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm. I'm used to much weaker ones.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> You can get speakers that put out 90-100 db measured with 1 watt @ 1 meter. Most of them are in the 80ish range.
> 
> The problem is, for every 3db on average, you need to double the power. Every 3db is doubling the sound output. This adds up REAL fast.
> http://everything2.com/title/Speaker+efficiency
> 
> For some reason that copypasta'd wierd and I can't get rid of the lines. Anyways, just assume the one that wraps around is the "speaker 3" from the previous row. Or just click the link.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Klipsch has some 111DB efficiency speakers but they're pricey.
> 
> Also, I always thought it was 10 more decibels, 10x the power. But maybe not. And that each additional speaker only netted one DB, not 3.
Click to expand...

Decibels is a logarithmic scale, +3dB ~ 2x power, +10dB = 10x power.


----------



## aidhanc

Added two old fans to a 5450








The Sempron heatsink fan is screwed on, the cheap 120mm is held by one zip-tie.

An ex-Sempron 140 heatsink fan over the memory.

Perfect fit









Idle temps at 1050MHz were around 53C, but at least the Sempron fan was keeping my NB cool.


----------



## Masta Squidge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> Decibels is a logarithmic scale, +3dB ~ 2x power, +10dB = 10x power.


Yeah that.


----------



## Paradigm84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> Decibels is a logarithmic scale, +3dB ~ 2x power, +10dB = 10x power.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that.
Click to expand...

You use:

Change decibels = 10log(ratio of power change)

where log is log base 10

e.g. What change in decibels will occur when you increase the power from 100 to 200w?

change in decibels = 10log(200/100) = 10log2 ~ 10 x 0.3 = 3dB, as stated before.


----------



## Truedeal

Is this a " express your competence of audio thread ", or post your inventions thread? ....


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Masta Squidge*
> 
> Roughly speaking, whatever you double gives you double everything else. If you want to double the power, you get +3db, or double the spl. If you want to double the SPL, you need to double the power. Doubling the surface area requires double the power to drive, but also results in another 3db.
> 
> I don't know the math on adding more speakers, but I am nearly positive that it doesn't flat out double the volume. I don't think it even results in much more volume at all. Don't bother using google and reading forums... it is full of idiots who think they can run like 75 speakers and get 300 db from 20 watts. Or people who are like "well you don't get double the SPL, but you do get +3db"... every 3db IS double the spl. Car stereo forums are almost worthless for this kind of information.
> 
> There is a nice calculator somewhere that lets you get estimated SPL levels from multiple speakers and different wattages and stuff. It assumes by default that if you add another speaker, you add corresponding wattage to it. If you say put in 2 10" speakers at 100w, then double the speakers.... it assumes again another 100w. If you cut the base wattage to 50 so the TOTAL is 100w, you will find the SPL is given as the same as the first two speakers at 100w. Simple fact is that you need to provide the power.
> 
> Doubling the surface area only helps increase a speaker's ability to produce low end frequencies at spl levels we can hear. For higher frequencies, the effect seems to be lost. Basically, you have to move more air around for the human ear to pick up lower tones more efficiently. This is why 10" subs have a really hard time hitting as low as a big 15".
> 
> At any rate, +3db = double the SPL (sound pressure level, which is basically a fancy version of db), which costs double the wattage. And peak power measurements are LOL.
> 
> It was always my favorite thing to roll around with this 600 rms sony xplod amp hooked up to two 15" MA Audio subs. They got loud as hell, people would be like "
> 
> DAMN MAN YOU GOT LIKE THREE THOUSAND WATTS BRO?
> 
> Or, if I told them I was running "600 watts", others would be like 'PFFT BRO THATS WEAK I RUN TWO THOUSAND" and then they show me their Pyle Audio amp, rated for something stupid like 2kw peak @18v x 1ohm with 10% THD... while they run 4 ohm speakers in series at 12.8v... Yeah, good luck with that 200 rms bro.
> 
> I facepalmed every time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paradigm84*
> 
> Decibels is a logarithmic scale, +3dB ~ 2x power, +10dB = 10x power.


Gothca, and learned something new. Rep for both of you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Is this a " express your competence of audio thread ", or post your inventions thread? ....


It's the "Post whatever the hell we want thread" just like all of OT.


----------



## Truedeal

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Gothca, and learned something new. Rep for both of you.
> 
> It's the "Post whatever the hell we want thread" just like all of OT.





No.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

?


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


seconded


----------



## nX3NTY

Talking about audio, here is my mod on 2009 where I made my own analog stage of CS4398 out from X-Fi Elite Pro and build it in accordance to CS4398 datasheet, but not the exact resistor value since it uses precision 1% ones, I just made this out of cheap 5% I could buy for few cents. This actually makes it miles ahead of anything I heard from any soundcard since, never heard anything sound this smooth and the sundstage is just amazing. Mind you I'm using Monitor Audio speaker with Technics amp and not run of the mill PC speaker. Too bad Creative cards don't last long because of crappy caps they using

Running external power from modified cheap PSU with high quality caps


Running card power with regulation


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Talking about audio, here is my mod on 2009 where I made my own analog stage of CS4398 out from X-Fi Elite Pro and build it in accordance to CS4398 datasheet, but not the exact resistor value since it uses precision 1% ones, I just made this out of cheap 5% I could buy for few cents. This actually makes it miles ahead of anything I heard from any soundcard since, never heard anything sound this smooth and the sundstage is just amazing. Mind you I'm using Monitor Audio speaker with Technics amp and not run of the mill PC speaker. Too bad Creative cards don't last long because of crappy caps they using
> 
> Running external power from modified cheap PSU with high quality caps
> 
> 
> Running card power with regulation


WOW awesome im lost but..... awesome!


----------



## diesel678

brace yourselves: my file server, 2 motherboards. 1 a 1155 dual core running win7 for torrents and file sharing and the other a sempron running pfsense. and again my gigabit switch running off molex!


----------



## Paradigm84

Sweet mercy, that is quite a rat's nest.


----------



## Pawelr98

Not sure where the power supply is. But great job anyway. I was even thinking about something similar(gaming server + file sharing server in one case).


----------



## lordhinton

heres one for you all







, basically i have a stand in graphics card (nvidia g210 1gb zotac) some of you may know that this little card does not allow fan controll.. when running the fan would always be at 100% etc causing alot of noise.

on the same computer i usually leave it on dawn till dusk hosting a tekkit server for a few friends but id like to keep it on over night, so i sat thinking then i came up with this:

i went from this little thing:



to a third party 58xx cooler using cable ties











now back to silent but pump noise







..
idle temps were around 58*C now there at 41*C


----------



## stevv

It's a bit old, but My first computer build back in 2003... . the plan was to build my own case...

started with this...


then this from left over plywood and a bookshelf...


I already had the plexi and even made the motherboard tray (if one looks closely at pix)... then I got lazy and bought a clear case


----------



## SniperTeamTango

3d printed switch holder.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> heres one for you all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , basically i have a stand in graphics card (nvidia g210 1gb zotac) some of you may know that this little card does not allow fan controll.. when running the fan would always be at 100% etc causing alot of noise.
> 
> on the same computer i usually leave it on dawn till dusk hosting a tekkit server for a few friends but id like to keep it on over night, so i sat thinking then i came up with this:
> 
> i went from this little thing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to a third party 58xx cooler using cable ties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now back to silent but pump noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> idle temps were around 58*C now there at 41*C


That actually looks cool. And the temps. Nice!


----------



## lordhinton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That actually looks cool. And the temps. Nice!


thanks







, its abit of a bodge though with the cable ties but.. it works and my nights are nights again


----------



## mironccr345

^ As long as it works right.


----------



## TheN00bBuilder

I'm only using 1 screw for my mobo. Thats that.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheN00bBuilder*
> 
> I'm only using 1 screw for my mobo. Thats that.


The one in the middle?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> It's a bit old, but My first computer build back in 2003... . the plan was to build my own case...
> 
> started with this...
> 
> 
> then this from left over plywood and a bookshelf...
> 
> 
> I already had the plexi and even made the motherboard tray (if one looks closely at pix)... then I got lazy and bought a clear case


HEY bruh how did you hook up the TACHOMETER ?


----------



## Caz

Plans are in the works for a REALLY nice looking ghetto out-of-case build. Will drop pix within the next couple months when it is done.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> HEY bruh how did you hook up the TACHOMETER ?


It hooks up using the serial port and 12v... yeah old school. The great thing is that it responds much quicker than what's seen on screen. I have a old video showing the tach vs windows 2000 task manager.


----------



## Imprezzion

Sold my case to a good friend and made a custom build testbench from a old Centurion 5 case that I cut up with a angle grinder and painted with a rattlecan.


----------



## Hokies83




----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

ohhhh SWEEET!!! can you show me an example of where you connected the wires PM me..


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> It hooks up using the serial port and 12v... yeah old school. The great thing is that it responds much quicker than what's seen on screen. I have a old video showing the tach vs windows 2000 task manager.


ohhhh SWEEET!!! can you show me an example of where you connected the wires PM me.. sorry for the double post im still half way asleep lol


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> ohhhh SWEEET!!! can you show me an example of where you connected the wires PM me.. sorry for the double post im still half way asleep lol


I would also be interested.


----------



## bigredishott

Finally got though all these post! I have some mild ghetto rigging I will take pics and share soon.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> ohhhh SWEEET!!! can you show me an example of where you connected the wires PM me.. sorry for the double post im still half way asleep lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> I would also be interested.


Hey guys, it was over 10 years ago when I had that setup and the tach got lost in broken pc parts pile years back. That tach was from Xoxide. You can check out this review of it over at modthebox.com (2002!)

I'm disappointed this stuff hasn't caught on at all. I'm planning to make my own on my next build. Got my D-frame and no parts yet (damn case took all my money).











Spoiler: Video demo of old system and tach


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> Hey guys, it was over 10 years ago when I had that setup and the tach got lost in broken pc parts pile years back. That tach was from Xoxide. You can check out this review of it over at modthebox.com (2002!)
> 
> I'm disappointed this stuff hasn't caught on at all. I'm planning to make my own on my next build. Got my D-frame and no parts yet (damn case took all my money).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Video demo of old system and tach


That's awesome









All you need now is one for CPU and RAM usage


----------



## Carniflex

Have a little ~30 EUR Android stick which was running kinda hot.






Had some Chinese aluminium heat-sinks around which are intended for the RAM chips in video cards. So the Android stick is hopefully no longer a fire hazard.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> Have a little ~30 EUR Android stick which was running kinda hot.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some Chinese aluminium heat-sinks around which are intended for the RAM chips in video cards. So the Android stick is hopefully no longer a fire hazard.


Now that's awesome.


----------



## animal0307

Nice, I've done that with WiFi adapters before. Much more stable internet afterwards.


----------



## Pawelr98

DIY paper mat for writing down server IP's and other stuff (like "Remeber me" combos). Also protect the desk from dirty stuff.

Behind the panel.

The ultimate molex line mounting solution(tape + a cable routed trough 5.25" mounting holes).


(to rotate press original size)


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

nice tape, I admit to having done similar in the past.







Someone suggested I post my photo booth in this thread







Built in 30 minutes for the low price of free99. Made with a light bulb box from work, an old whit t shirt, thumbtacks, some posterboard, and lit with an old spider lamp (5 bulbs on one pole) with a broken base. Have to support the left side while taking pics, as I ran out of tshirt so had to stretch it really hard, collapsing that side of the box













Have gotten much more decent photos lately, although nothing great


----------



## Pawelr98

I repaired my chair







.


A small piece of plastic with 3 drilled holes. Then 2 screws that go through broken pieces and the original screw in the middle.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> nice tape, I admit to having done similar in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone suggested I post my photo booth in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Built in 30 minutes for the low price of free99. Made with a light bulb box from work, an old whit t shirt, thumbtacks, some posterboard, and lit with an old spider lamp (5 bulbs on one pole) with a broken base. Have to support the left side while taking pics, as I ran out of tshirt so had to stretch it really hard, collapsing that side of the box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have gotten much more decent photos lately, although nothing great


The pictures turned out really nice. What kind of card is that? 6970.


----------



## MCCSolutions

My current HTPC setup in preperation for my new "Jewel" Build!


----------



## bigredishott

Here are my recent ones. Those hard fans in the hdd trays are held in with silicone. The other I had smosh down some fins to fit the card and hdd tray and I used zip ties to hold an ssd in the hdd tray.


----------



## bigredishott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I repaired my chair
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> A small piece of plastic with 3 drilled holes. Then 2 screws that go through broken pieces and the original screw in the middle.


I would have tried some JB Weld to repair it.


----------



## micro5797

NVM


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*
> 
> I would have tried some JB Weld to repair it.


Screws are way cheaper







. JB is like ~10$+ shipping. Screws less than 1$ + no shipping (leroy merlin shop).


----------



## cptnighthawk666

this is a dualcore laptop i getto rigged to the front panel of my gaming pc..basically i tore apart a dualcore laptop and i took all the functioning parts and put it all in a small cardboard box added a couple small fans to the box to keep it all cool and mounted the 10.5 inch screen the the front panel of my pc.i am not done yet as i am going to encase the box in something more aesthetically pleasing.also going to do a bunch of sleeving and chord management.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> this is a dualcore laptop i getto rigged to the front panel of my gaming pc..basically i tore apart a dualcore laptop and i took all the functioning parts and put it all in a small cardboard box added a couple small fans to the box to keep it all cool and mounted the 10.5 inch screen the the front panel of my pc.i am not done yet as i am going to encase the box in something more aesthetically pleasing.also going to do a bunch of sleeving and chord management.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm not sure how many uses it will have, but it sure looks pretty cool









How are you controlling it? Is it touchscreen?


----------



## Speedster159

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> this is a dualcore laptop i getto rigged to the front panel of my gaming pc..basically i tore apart a dualcore laptop and i took all the functioning parts and put it all in a small cardboard box added a couple small fans to the box to keep it all cool and mounted the 10.5 inch screen the the front panel of my pc.i am not done yet as i am going to encase the box in something more aesthetically pleasing.also going to do a bunch of sleeving and chord management.






I don't even... why would you want that? Hope it's touchscreen.

 This is Oooooo...LD


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> this is a dualcore laptop i getto rigged to the front panel of my gaming pc..basically i tore apart a dualcore laptop and i took all the functioning parts and put it all in a small cardboard box added a couple small fans to the box to keep it all cool and mounted the 10.5 inch screen the the front panel of my pc.i am not done yet as i am going to encase the box in something more aesthetically pleasing.also going to do a bunch of sleeving and chord management.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I recognize that he is using a Laptop LCD(11-13" CCFL 16:9) from the looks of it with a generic LCD driver kit u can get from china or off of ebay. As far as touchscreen capabilities that is a easy add on you can also install that will use a USB 4-pin interface, I have done this alot with custom PCs..... Good Job!


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> It's a bit old, but My first computer build back in 2003... . the plan was to build my own case...
> 
> started with this...
> 
> 
> then this from left over plywood and a bookshelf...
> 
> 
> I already had the plexi and even made the motherboard tray (if one looks closely at pix)... then I got lazy and bought a clear case


What is the tach for? o.0


----------



## cptnighthawk666

no not touch...i wish. i wired a usb hub through my case so everything plugs into the hub im using a wireless mouse i keep beside my main mouse and i use 2 keyboards.but i just found a program called synergy that lets me controll both computers from a single mouse and keyboard i just haven't had the motivation to set it up.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> no not touch...i wish. i wired a usb hub through my case so everything plugs into the hub im using a wireless mouse i keep beside my main mouse and i use 2 keyboards.but i just found a program called synergy that lets me controll both computers from a single mouse and keyboard i just haven't had the motivation to set it up.


The TS kits are cheap on ebay and its a USB interface and u can use just about any touch program to calibrate it, I highly recommend it! I think it would be a nice upgrade to your current setup! And once again good job I like the overall look! Loose the cardboard and tidy up and you have a nice MOTM worthy machine!


----------



## cptnighthawk666

thanks i was in a previous MOTM a couple of months back but i got last place but that was my old build nighthawk 1.0 that i sold to buy this one nighthawk 2.0.original name i know.as for a touchscreen i just cant afford it right now i need to get a JOB BAD my girlfriend is getting sick of me taking her money and buying computer stuff with it.lol but all that aside i am going to do the touch upgrade soon i hope.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

THATS AWESOME BRO i wanted to do the same with a USB lily pad SCREEN


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> this is a dualcore laptop i getto rigged to the front panel of my gaming pc..basically i tore apart a dualcore laptop and i took all the functioning parts and put it all in a small cardboard box added a couple small fans to the box to keep it all cool and mounted the 10.5 inch screen the the front panel of my pc.i am not done yet as i am going to encase the box in something more aesthetically pleasing.also going to do a bunch of sleeving and chord management.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's pretty cool.


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> this is a dualcore laptop i getto rigged to the front panel of my gaming pc..basically i tore apart a dualcore laptop and i took all the functioning parts and put it all in a small cardboard box added a couple small fans to the box to keep it all cool and mounted the 10.5 inch screen the the front panel of my pc.i am not done yet as i am going to encase the box in something more aesthetically pleasing.also going to do a bunch of sleeving and chord management.


this is awesome


----------



## Bart

I agree!! Love it!


----------



## cptnighthawk666

thanks yall


----------



## Scorpion667

So I got two seagate 4TB (STDM4000DM00) and I'm expecting 50% DOA rate based on newegg reviews lol. So I did't bother installing them properly yet, just plugged in the sata cables and sata power so I can run diagnostics and validate they are flawless.



Then I noticed they run at about 43c at full load while Seagate Seatools is checking for errors, so I thought aight that's a little warm gotta add an airflow fan. Grabbed a spare AP-15 and I figured since the fan motor has a magnet, I shouldn't keep it too close to the hdd. Used two cigarette packs to prop it up lol. Disclaimer: SMOKING IS BAD MMKAY.



Temps dropped to 38c 37c 36c and no bad sectors yet








Wish me luck!


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> So I got two seagate 4TB (STDM4000DM00) and I'm expecting 50% DOA rate based on newegg reviews lol. So I did't bother installing them properly yet, just plugged in the sata cables and sata power so I can run diagnostics and validate they are flawless.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I noticed they run at about 43c at full load while Seagate Seatools is checking for errors, so I thought aight that's a little warm gotta add an airflow fan. Grabbed a spare AP-15 and I figured since the fan motor has a magnet, I shouldn't keep it too close to the hdd. Used two cigarette packs to prop it up lol. Disclaimer: SMOKING IS BAD MMKAY.
> 
> 
> 
> Temps dropped to 38c 37c 36c and no bad sectors yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish me luck!


40 something C is normal, right?

*EDIT:/B] Yeah my 3 drives are running at 40c.*


----------



## Pawelr98

43°C load HDD temp is normal but lower temperature is always better. My STDM4000DM00 sits at 30°C (it turns off when unused) today (ambient is 30°C today) and peaks at about 33-34°C.During normal day it's ~28°C idle ~32°C load.


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 43°C load HDD temp is normal but lower temperature is always better. My STDM4000DM00 sits at 30°C (it turns off when unused) today (ambient is 30°C today) and peaks at about 33-34°C.During normal day it's ~28°C idle ~32°C load.


How do you have a drive turn off when unused?


----------



## Pawelr98

Go to power plans. Edit your current power plan. Then advanced. Hard disc drive.Turn off after and here you set your time after the hdd is turned off when unused.


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Go to power plans. Edit your current power plan. Then advanced. Hard disc drive.Turn off after and here you set your time after the hdd is turned off when unused.


Will that also affect my boot drive?


----------



## Pawelr98

No it only affect other hdd's cause the boot drive is always used so it will not turn off.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> 40 something C is normal, right?
> 
> *EDIT:/B] Yeah my 3 drives are running at 40c.*


yeah it's normal, I just like to see it undeer 38-39c as a personal preference









Once I have it properly installed in the case it should run cooler, next to my intake fan. They were running on top of a cardboard box that's why they were warm







. A a proper HDD tray allows airflow under the drive and over.

Btw no bad sectors yes!!!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> yeah it's normal, I just like to see it undeer 38-39c as a personal preference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Once I have it properly installed in the case it should run cooler, next to my intake fan. They were running on top of a cardboard box that's why they were warm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . A a proper HDD tray allows airflow under the drive and over.
> 
> Btw no bad sectors yes!!!


Lol love you Profile GIF lol


----------



## HPE1000

Fairly common, but I made the best gaming headset under $50


----------



## TELVM

Behold the 'Linger Master Ghost in the Shell' ghetto computer case







:
































http://www.sharenator.com/Lingerie_girl_computer_mod_case/


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> What is the tach for? o.0


Shows cpu usage.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Fairly common, but I made the best gaming headset under $50


how's that mic?


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> how's that mic?


Pretty good, my friend with a steelseries siberia v2 said he liked it a lot, my brother says it is ok and quiet at times, although he is using a stupid xbox 360 headset so that explains a lot... Mic is very clear and I usually run it at a 0db boost, but I had to put it all the way to a 20db boost tonight for my brother claimed it was so quiet, I put microphone echo on and almost blew my eardrums out because it was so loud, but once again, he is using an xbox headset so his opinion means nothing to me as far as how the mic is.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Pretty good, my friend with a steelseries siberia v2 said he liked it a lot, my brother says it is ok and quiet at times, although he is using a stupid xbox 360 headset so that explains a lot... Mic is very clear and I usually run it at a 0db boost, but I had to put it all the way to a 20db boost tonight for my brother claimed it was so quiet, I put microphone echo on and almost blew my eardrums out because it was so loud, but once again, he is using an xbox headset so his opinion means nothing to me as far as how the mic is.


i might get one and try it, thanks!


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> i might get one and try it, thanks!


I recommend that if you do, do not buy it off of amazon, it is 20 dollars there, but only 10 dollars on ebay.

I believe that they no longer produce the microphone so it is rather rare and expensive a lot of the times you find it (it was 50 dollars on amazon at one time)

You have to cut the headband off the mic and then attach it to the headset, I used a blowtorch to heat up a paperclip to cut the headband because I have misplaced my dremel, and then a attached it in a very hard to describe way, so just use double sided tape or something to do that.


----------



## ghostrider85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> I recommend that if you do, do not buy it off of amazon, it is 20 dollars there, but only 10 dollars on ebay.
> 
> I believe that they no longer produce the microphone so it is rather rare and expensive a lot of the times you find it (it was 50 dollars on amazon at one time)
> 
> You have to cut the headband off the mic and then attach it to the headset, I used a blowtorch to heat up a paperclip to cut the headband because I have misplaced my dremel, and then a attached it in a very hard to describe way, so just use double sided tape or something to do that.


i'll check ebay then, thanks!


----------



## Kitten

My thoughts on this thread:  .... WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT?!!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

ZIP ties always a winner ...most of you did this already ,i lost my screws :/ for my side cover .


----------



## packerbackermk

Q-tips and twist ties.... yup haha. Check out my build log for the build this is currently running in.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*


----------



## Scorpion667

@packerbackermk

We have a winner.


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> Q-tips and twist ties.... yup haha. Check out my build log for the build this is currently running in.


You win, Close thread.

(seriously, You can't be making good contact with that, surely?)


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> @packerbackermk
> 
> We have a winner.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> You win, Close thread.
> 
> (seriously, You can't be making good contact with that, surely?)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*


Thanks haha. I am making good enough contact. It's sitting at 35°. I just needed to be able to turn the computer on and make sure components were all in working order.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I did the same thing with zip ties xD. Didn't make good contact though.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> Q-tips and twist ties.... yup haha. Check out my build log for the build this is currently running in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


At least you'll have 4 back-up q-tips if you ever need them.


----------



## bigredishott

Thats crazy! I wouldn't trust them qtips for long.


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigredishott*
> 
> Thats crazy! I wouldn't trust them qtips for long.


They don't have to work for long, just until I'm ready to fit the water loop.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

It's hot here in Arizona. Portable AC with PC fans


----------



## chyneuze

Hi!
My pc workshop in my job:





No case, all is accessible when you have to connect a hdd or replace a part!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chyneuze*
> 
> Hi!
> My pc workshop in my job:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No case, all is accessible when you have to connect a hdd or replace a part!


Specs ?
Nice.I'm planning to do something similar with one old Celeron D.


----------



## chyneuze

For spec, nothing special, a Core 2 Duo 2.2 Ghz, 2 HDD 500GB and 1 1TB, 4GB of RAM and a SATA controller card 4 port.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chyneuze*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi!
> My pc workshop in my job:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No case, all is accessible when you have to connect a hdd or replace a part!


Not bad, but i'd clean the cables up.


----------



## chyneuze

Oops, cables, they are always there ...









Otherwise I also had another Ghetto Mod right next to the PC: The screen!





Two screens with the HS. I modified it to work with an ATX power supply.

Note the power board cut to keep the backlight and the sata cable to hang the screen


----------



## ihatelolcats

sata cable wall hanger is genius


----------



## animal0307

That power supply rigging, I love it! My third monitor has had a dead power brick for five months and I've been too cheap to buy a new one. Though running it off an atx PSU is genius. I'm am so trying the with my molex PCI pass through for a bit of ghetto modding. I'll free up space on my power strip and behind my desk. I will get back to you.

It works!!!! 3 screen desktop is best







Please ignore the red line, its a new development on an old dumpster rescue.


----------



## Fir3Chi3f

That's one way to get rid of all those power bricks for your monitors!









I want to do the same thing with scanners and printers that I don't have the power adapters for


----------



## signalpuke

Cooling my GPU backplate lol


Spoiler: for full size, right click, open url/image in new tab


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> That power supply rigging, I love it! My third monitor has had a dead power brick for five months and I've been too cheap to buy a new one. Though running it off an atx PSU is genius. I'm am so trying the with my molex PCI pass through for a bit of ghetto modding. I'll free up space on my power strip and behind my desk. I will get back to you.
> 
> It works!!!! 3 screen desktop is best
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please ignore the red line, its a new development on an old dumpster rescue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad you got it working.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signalpuke*
> 
> Cooling my GPU backplate lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: for full size, right click, open url/image in new tab


How are your temps now?


----------



## signalpuke

It is working well, keeping my GPU cool. Dropped the temp about 20%
Will be taking it out, and actually mounting it adjacent to the H80i fan


----------



## Rainbow Dash

My solution for keeping a 120mm case fan in a 92mm slot:
The zip ties are visible, there's some clear tape too but you can't see it in the picture.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainbow Dash*
> 
> My solution for keeping a 120mm case fan in a 92mm slot:
> The zip ties are visible, there's some clear tape too but you can't see it in the picture.


I personally prefer two sided tape.



Although zip ties can take more punishment ofc before they give up. And you can sort of hang stuff with them in the places where two sided tape is not that good idea. But for flat surfaces two sided tape is awesome. hell, even one of my pumps is held in place with two sided tape.



Well - in addition to fittings holding it in place ofc









Edit: I'm hoping to be able to submit some more in few weeks







I have three ipad3 retina screen parts out of which I am going to try to build a high resolution display - I suspect that it will involve good amount of two sided tape and zip ties and perhaps even a glue gun.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainbow Dash*
> 
> My solution for keeping a 120mm case fan in a 92mm slot:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The zip ties are visible, there's some clear tape too but you can't see it in the picture.


Not bad. I'd probably use Velcro. But that's just me.


----------



## DJEndet

Did a bit of "Ghetto rigging" myself yesterday and here's the results:



^- My 4g dongle got a bit too hot for my liking. Couldn't find any paste with adhesive so what do you do? Zipties of course! Upload is so much more stable now, which is important after all as I stream through it











^- Been having some issues with my RAM over heating as there is a dead spot of hot air right at the memory slots. Easy fix: Add a 40mm fan from a server HDD unit on it with Zipties :3 Baby keeps it cool. Only minus side is that it has a connector with a resistor in it as the cable is too short so can't test the noise at max power but it does it's job. Gonna rig up a dual/triple fan system for them soon.


----------



## bigredishott

Here we go. I upgraded the cpu cooler in my game rig, and I didn't want this one to go to waste. It's and H60 with a 120mm fan pushing and a reducer and 80mm fan pulling. And the 80mm fan wouldn't fit in the fan holder with the reducer,so I zip tied it on with 2 zip ties (only 2 I had on hand) and used a wire twist too.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HAHAHA i love ''ZiP TiES''


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khlae*
> 
> Oh boy do I have a list of these!
> 
> My old power mac g3 black edition! That's a lot of sharpie.
> 
> 
> 
> eeh, close enough. you can't see that side anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


And I thought I was the only one to use sharpies to blacken things (cables, PCI slot covers, etc.)


----------



## OPENbracket

The backplate on my 7950 was causing a short and refusing to boot. I love electrical tape!


----------



## Ne0Khan




----------



## nvidiaftw12

So I didn't like having to use usb 3.0 loopback, or have the little front plate stealing a 3.5 drive bay and looking bad so I went for a different approach.





Discreet and works great.


----------



## PCModderMike

My FT03 HTPC/NAS server.
It can hold 3 hard drives in the back behind the motherboard, but those are all being used, so I used a 600T cage to put the RAID 5 drives right up front.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Until about a week ago, this was my rig.


Entire front of the case covered in duct tape.


Fan held in place with cable ties.


1cm of cable routing room led to interesting panel gaps.


And the power button protruding from the top.

I had had to drill out all of the drive cages, as the RIIIE was too large, which meant the hard drive had to be screwed directly into the side of the case. Who needs activity lights when you can hear every movement of the read/write head?


----------



## GHADthc

My Catleap Yamakasi Q270LED SE (B Model) with my custom ghetto rigged VESA mount after I debezelled the panel, that I just modded the other day, to mount it to my Ergotron LX (I used a type of silicon adhesive, and didn't take into account the screen getting warm after use, and its been smelling like hot glue for awhile now...my nose has adjusted to the smell, but I hope it goes away some time soon..).


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> My FT03 HTPC/NAS server.
> It can hold 3 hard drives in the back behind the motherboard, but those are all being used, so I used a 600T cage to put the RAID 5 drives right up front.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean it up and it'll be a perfect fit.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> Until about a week ago, this was my rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Entire front of the case covered in duct tape.
> 
> 
> Fan held in place with cable ties.
> 
> 
> 1cm of cable routing room led to interesting panel gaps.
> 
> 
> And the power button protruding from the top.
> 
> 
> 
> I had had to drill out all of the drive cages, as the RIIIE was too large, which meant the hard drive had to be screwed directly into the side of the case. Who needs activity lights when you can hear every movement of the read/write head?


That duct tape....and that power button.


----------



## Willi

a few weeks ago I got this monitor from a dead notebook...


Well... I got a control board from it on e-bay (49 USD with the energy brick for it), melted some holes open for the wires and voillá


then I used its base to screw on my current monitor. End result?


Sorry for the GoPro photos, it was the only camera I had handy at the time.
It works great, despite lacking a bit on resolution compared to the main monitor. Nothing a bit of tweaking can't solve


----------



## Rainbow Dash

Sorry for the blurriness, but here's my method of installing my ZM-1 (rather than the intended position on the headphone wire). I took a metal cover from a 5.25" drive bay and cut it a bit (lot) to be narrower. I then wrapped it in electrical tape and finally hot glued it to my headphones.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> a few weeks ago I got this monitor from a dead notebook...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well... I got a control board from it on e-bay (49 USD with the energy brick for it), melted some holes open for the wires and voillá
> 
> 
> then I used its base to screw on my current monitor. End result?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the GoPro photos, it was the only camera I had handy at the time.
> It works great, despite lacking a bit on resolution compared to the main monitor. Nothing a bit of tweaking can't solve


Neat Mod. I'ld like to see it powered up.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainbow Dash*
> 
> Sorry for the blurriness, but here's my method of installing my ZM-1 (rather than the intended position on the headphone wire). I took a metal cover from a 5.25" drive bay and cut it a bit (lot) to be narrower. I then wrapped it in electrical tape and finally hot glued it to my headphones.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ghetto, but cool.


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> a few weeks ago I got this monitor from a dead notebook...
> 
> 
> Well... I got a control board from it on e-bay (49 USD with the energy brick for it), melted some holes open for the wires and voillá
> 
> 
> then I used its base to screw on my current monitor. End result?
> 
> 
> Sorry for the GoPro photos, it was the only camera I had handy at the time.
> It works great, despite lacking a bit on resolution compared to the main monitor. Nothing a bit of tweaking can't solve


That's really cool. Can you take a picture with both screens on?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Neat Mod. I'ld like to see it powered up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ghetto, but cool.


What do you mean ghetto? It's a ghetto mod thread after all


----------



## bumsoil

this is a few years old but:








load tems at 4.6ghz with a 920


----------



## Ecstacy

920 @ 4.6... 34C load.









I need to move up north! Moar gigahertz!


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecstacy*
> 
> That's really cool. Can you take a picture with both screens on?


as requested


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumsoil*
> 
> this is a few years old but:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> load tems at 4.6ghz with a 920


That load temp.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> as requested
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ghetto yes, but very cool.


----------



## Unknownm

super glue works great if you are not planning on removing the gunk later on


----------



## mironccr345

What were your temps and what are they after the mod?


----------



## SHNS0

Hey guys, how do you like my new EKWB reservoir? I'm pretty fond of it.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> What were your temps and what are they after the mod?


those pictures with the GPU was a EVGA 7900GS hardware volt mod. I believe the stock clocks are 500? i pushed it to 670 with those 80mm fans on. I can't remember temps

Stock chipset heatsink was overheating before adding that second fan but after the mod it loaded a good 60c


----------



## hakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Hey guys, how do you like my new EKWB reservoir? I'm pretty fond of it.


so much WIN


----------



## cptnighthawk666

kinda looks like something me and my friends would make on the weekend when i was 16 lol


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> kinda looks like something me and my friends would make on the weekend when i was 16 lol


Lol, gravity bong FTW.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Hey guys, how do you like my new EKWB reservoir? I'm pretty fond of it.


LOL!!! Serious win going on here!! That's awesome!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Hey guys, how do you like my new EKWB reservoir? I'm pretty fond of it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Does it work?


----------



## Toan

On my first rig, I had an nvidia 9800gt and the fan had stopped working. The heatsink got so hot, that when I touched it, it literally burned my finger. I was too broke to afford another card so I took the side panel off my case and pointed 2 stand up tower fans at the card to keep it cool. Kept it at around 35 degrees lol.


----------



## Gereti

maby moth ago, i gived one, old case to my friend becose he's case was broken

and this is what we made one of my cases



XFX core edition 650W PSU, my patented dvd-player *place* (well, ounly cables)


----------



## DaveLT

ghetto level : OVER 9000!!!


----------



## lurker2501

Swapped to a new PSU


----------



## mironccr345

After my mod, I never had a front USB port. I found the one that went with the case and decided to stick it in the 2.5" front panel bay. Looks like it was meant to be there.


----------



## HPE1000

Apple usb cable? Not interested now


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> After my mod, I never had a front USB port. I found the one that went with the case and decided to stick it in the 2.5" front panel bay. Looks like it was meant to be there.


Where and how did you get that front fan?! Also, im a fan of stuff hacked into place. My backup rig has a fan held in the 5.3 inch bays via foam and i "persuaded" a 3.5 inch fan controller into the 3.5 inch floppy bay to run all 4 casefans. Oh and i had to cut one of the fans so it would fit around my RAM slots. No pictures ATM but once i figure out how to upload them properly ill edit this post. Overall some very... "creative" solutions in this thread


----------



## Cavi Mike

I didn't have any front USB 3.0 ports so...


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*


Love the smooth blended radiusing and the impeller hub in that front intake fan







.

Is that a corrugated duct behind it?


----------



## Phelan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OPENbracket*
> 
> The backplate on my 7950 was causing a short and refusing to boot. I love electrical tape!


Why not just line the underside of the backplate with tape? Swiftech's Komodo backplates are low profile and have a plastic film along the underside to prevent shorting out.


----------



## Darklyric

Gota love the psu about to fall off the edge


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Apple usb cable? Not interested now



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Where and how did you get that front fan?! Also, im a fan of stuff hacked into place. My backup rig has a fan held in the 5.3 inch bays via foam and i "persuaded" a 3.5 inch fan controller into the 3.5 inch floppy bay to run all 4 casefans. Oh and i had to cut one of the fans so it would fit around my RAM slots. No pictures ATM but once i figure out how to upload them properly ill edit this post. Overall some very... "creative" solutions in this thread


I got the fan from MNPCTECH. Mnpctech has a guide on how to make a custom one too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Love the smooth blended radiusing and the impeller hub in that front intake fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Is that a corrugated duct behind it?


Thanks! It's one of the first case mods I've done. I am using a fan duct in the build. Check out the video below. It's not the best but it should answer some of your questions.


----------



## FIRINMYLAZERMAN

I need something underneath my graphics card in order to hold it in place, because it's not only a heavy card, but my motherboard also doesn't fit properly in my case, and because of that, I can't screw my graphics card directly onto the case, and it's actually slightly out of the PCI-E slot, which is why it doesn't stay in place on its own.

Long story short, I quickly grabbed the first thing I could find that would not only hold my graphics card in place, but also allow airflow. An expired Tim Horton's gift card was the one thing that I had at the time to hold it in place.

That gift card still holds my graphics card in place to this day.


----------



## FIRINMYLAZERMAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> It's not mine but I thought I'd share this piece of art in here:


Is that supposed to be a CPU cooler or a GPU cooler? Either way, this just made my day XD


----------



## legoman786

I don't have pics, but I've done a few over the years.


----------



## alansg

Any ideas? Sry, it's my st time to make a custom case!


----------



## hakz

use duct tape for unparalleled ghetto-ness


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> use duct tape for unparalleled ghetto-ness


And plastic wrap for a window.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecstacy*
> 
> And plastic wrap for a window.


And zip ties, don't forget zip ties for fan mounting. Ghetto = over 9000!!!


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> After my mod, I never had a front USB port. I found the one that went with the case and decided to stick it in the 2.5" front panel bay. Looks like it was meant to be there.


I think you're mistaking this for the "Done Correctly" Case mods section.

you cannot have a professional looking turbine casemod, and call yourself getto


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Figured I would post my latest side project at work. I've been wanting a HTPC but don't really want to fork over multiple hundreds of dollars (or even a hundred). I cobbled up a computer with these specs today:
> 
> Pentium D 2.8Ghz
> 2GB RAM DDR2 667
> ATI X300 GPU
> Realtek Gigabit NIC
> 300w PSU
> 80GB HDD
> Box that it sits on nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a 5450 at home and couple gigs of faster RAM that might help it. I'm hoping that it'll decode Bluray rips but I won't get my hopes up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways the southbridge, northbridge and GPU were getting hot with no ventilation so I grabbed an expansion cover and stuck it in the heatsink to hold the fan above everything. Pic below.


Very clever, not only is it cooling the NB, SB and GPU, but, also the RAM possibly giving a tiny bit of fresh air to the cpu cooler as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> After my mod, I never had a front USB port. I found the one that went with the case and decided to stick it in the 2.5" front panel bay. Looks like it was meant to be there.


Any more pics of that case?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> I think you're mistaking this for the "Done Correctly" Case mods section.
> you cannot have a professional looking turbine casemod, and call yourself getto


I does look like it was meant to be there.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Very clever, not only is it cooling the NB, SB and GPU, but, also the RAM possibly giving a tiny bit of fresh air to the cpu cooler as well.
> Any more pics of that case?


Check out the video I posted. Here are some pics I found.


----------



## cdoublejj

Very nice! but, where or when was the video posted? totally old school! Is that case a dell vostro.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Very nice! but, where or when was the video posted? totally old school! Is that case a dell vostro.


Thanks! It's a Rosewill case that I modded a couple of years ago. Click This.

Here's the link where I posted my vid.


----------



## Abs.exe

There is my ex super Ghetto rig

Carton Box Project pictures

Some images are down but the rest is there lol


----------



## mironccr345

Edit. NVM I answered my own question.


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I does look like it was meant to be there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the video I posted. Here are some pics I found.


Very interesting looking case, never seen anythign like it. The fan is in a good place and looks as good as it does dangerous. Is it fully exposed?


----------



## mironccr345

^^ Thanks! It's fully exposed with a filter behind it and it's hooked up to an LNA. MNPCTECH makes a custom fan guard for it too.
http://www.mnpctech.com/TurbineFanMod.html


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoisonousRakija*
> 
> ... looks as good as it does dangerous. Is it fully exposed?


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*


yes but on a computer








As cool as it looks, it'd have to be easy for stuff to get stuck in there, fingers too, it's as scary as it is awesome!


----------



## DaveLT

Unless you cram in a PFC1212DE it isn't scary you know







Well i DO have this fan ...

and this 8000rpm little devil


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Unless you cram in a PFC1212DE it isn't scary you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i DO have this fan ...
> 
> and this 8000rpm little devil


i think i had a fan like that once then went up to 8000rpm, it was a bit wider than usual case fans and it drove my family nuts because it was connected directly to the molex and having no way to control it meant it was noisy.
This was ages ago but, i'd probably never buy a fan like that ever again


----------



## DaveLT

Well 8000rpm is not a problem ... i have a 15000rpm 40mm fan that i held in my bare hands running full speed(i think, of course. No official RPM specs) but it's the TFB-series blades ...
They're scary even when not moving


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Spoiler: Terrifying Finger Shredder


That literally looks like something James Bond would be lowered into, only then the main baddie's monologue couldn't be heard over the blades slicing through the air.


----------



## NinjaToast

lurking this thread for awhile and now I have a... Project that definitely belongs in here. xD

The story, I broke my PS3 fan connector off the board about 3 years ago and I didn't have the tools to solder the fan wires directly to the board so I just had my PS3 apart with an oscillating fan pointed at the ps3's heatsinks. 3 years later I'm tired of my ps3 being apart and having a loud fan pointed at it to cool it down, so I hit the internet for different ways to fix the fan. I came across one where the fan was hooked up to a usb cable and it ran off the PS3 usb port.

So for two days I worked on making the fan work with usb wiring, mostly working with the ground wire because the usbs ground wire is pretty flimsy and wouldn't twist in with the ground wire of the PS3 fan. That's not the only problem I had, I needed wire nuts to keep the wires together safely, so I went got those today. When I returned home I immediately went to work on it again, I connected the grey and brown wires to the red wire of the usb (the grey wire I believe is the sensor but I connected it anyway) with the wire nut no problems what so ever.. The ground wires were still my big issue as getting the usb ground to work and twist in with the fan's ground without a problem is the most annoying thing I have ever done, heck I still haven't gotten it to work properly 100% of the time. I got it to work a good majority of the time without having to push the fan to jump it into full throttle so I just twisted a wire nut on it and called it a day on that.

My next issue was that I had thrown out the ps3's fan suspender/shroud so I just drilled holes in the bottom of the ps3's plastic case and screwed the fan down and purposely broke a hole in the back vents so I could close the case.

*TL;DR*: PS3 fan connector broke 3 years ago, finally wanted to fix my issue, did so with plenty of annoy-ment, end result ps3 is fixed(albeit ghettotasticly) with a chance of having to push start the fan.
*
LOOK PICTURES*


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Well 8000rpm is not a problem ... i have a 15000rpm 40mm fan that i held in my bare hands running full speed(i think, of course. No official RPM specs) but it's the TFB-series blades ...
> They're scary even when not moving


i'd freak out. imagine if you held that thing the wrong way?








Btw woudlnt 8000+rpm be a little too noisy for an everyday computer? Mine use to drive me nuts too, but i had a low end system and the case wasn't that great either so there werent many fan options.

I've got 2x 140mm Enermax TB Apollish Twister Fans right now. Max 750Rpm


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Well 8000rpm is not a problem ... i have a 15000rpm 40mm fan that i held in my bare hands running full speed(i think, of course. No official RPM specs) but it's the TFB-series blades ...
> They're scary even when not moving
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


One look at that and my fingers started to tingle with fear.. That is all the Nope right there, wouldn't put that in my PC, don't need it to take off while inside..


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PoisonousRakija*
> 
> i'd freak out. imagine if you held that thing the wrong way?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw woudlnt 8000+rpm be a little too noisy for an everyday computer? Mine use to drive me nuts too, but i had a low end system and the case wasn't that great either so there werent many fan options.
> 
> I've got 2x 140mm Enermax TB Apollish Twister Fans right now. Max 750Rpm


quote name="NinjaToast" url="/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/1900#post_20832887"]
One look at that and my fingers started to tingle with fear.. That is all the Nope right there, wouldn't put that in my PC, don't need it to take off while inside..[/quote]
I actually had it in my rig for some time ... Even @ 5v it was loud. Still loud so i left it off all the time (Only turn it on to scare people







)
But there's a problem, my fan controller runs the fans on full for 6 secs when you power up the computer so everytime i do that my rig takes off


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I actually had it in my rig for some time ... Even @ 5v it was loud. Still loud so i left it off all the time (Only turn it on to scare people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> But there's a problem, my fan controller runs the fans on full for 6 secs when you power up the computer so everytime i do that my rig takes off


PCCOPTER AWAY!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> lurking this thread for awhile and now I have a... Project that definitely belongs in here. xD
> 
> The story, I broke my PS3 fan connector off the board about 3 years ago and I didn't have the tools to solder the fan wires directly to the board so I just had my PS3 apart with an oscillating fan pointed at the ps3's heatsinks. 3 years later I'm tired of my ps3 being apart and having a loud fan pointed at it to cool it down, so I hit the internet for different ways to fix the fan. I came across one where the fan was hooked up to a usb cable and it ran off the PS3 usb port.
> 
> So for two days I worked on making the fan work with usb wiring, mostly working with the ground wire because the usbs ground wire is pretty flimsy and wouldn't twist in with the ground wire of the PS3 fan. That's not the only problem I had, I needed wire nuts to keep the wires together safely, so I went got those today. When I returned home I immediately went to work on it again, I connected the grey and brown wires to the red wire of the usb (the grey wire I believe is the sensor but I connected it anyway) with the wire nut no problems what so ever.. The ground wires were still my big issue as getting the usb ground to work and twist in with the fan's ground without a problem is the most annoying thing I have ever done, heck I still haven't gotten it to work properly 100% of the time. I got it to work a good majority of the time without having to push the fan to jump it into full throttle so I just twisted a wire nut on it and called it a day on that.
> 
> My next issue was that I had thrown out the ps3's fan suspender/shroud so I just drilled holes in the bottom of the ps3's plastic case and screwed the fan down and purposely broke a hole in the back vents so I could close the case.
> 
> *TL;DR*: PS3 fan connector broke 3 years ago, finally wanted to fix my issue, did so with plenty of annoy-ment, end result ps3 is fixed(albeit ghettotasticly) with a chance of having to push start the fan.
> *
> LOOK PICTURES*


i did a PS3 mod once but, it wasn't ghetto,








Enough suction to hold the paper there so this proves the intake works.

I also bend the back plate brackets too but, I am very careful about it and only bend a it tad or 2 more not a lot. "tad" being my own made up measurement of degree.


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i did a PS3 mod once but, it wasn't ghetto,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough suction to hold the paper there so this proves the intake works.
> 
> I also bend the back plate brackets too but, I am very careful about it and only bend a it tad or 2 more not a lot. "tad" being my own made up measurement of degree.


Oooh I quite like that and it looks pretty good from the outside, what tool did you use for the cuts?

It's also interesting timing, I was actually looking for a way to get more cool air into the case; I'm having a bit of trouble keeping the heat sinks cool, might give this a try.


----------



## cdoublejj

1 inch paddle bit for wood. I put a block of wood on the drill press and drilled plastic. i haven't found a good way to de burr plastic yet or rather found a sand paper i like or a de burring tool.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> 1 inch paddle bit for wood. I put a block of wood on the drill press and drilled plastic. i haven't found a good way to de burr plastic yet or rather found a sand paper i like or a de burring tool.


Those 3.5mm shank diamond-coated tiny bits will do the job along with a rotary tool (think dremel)


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> 1 inch paddle bit for wood. I put a block of wood on the drill press and drilled plastic. i haven't found a good way to de burr plastic yet or rather found a sand paper i like or a de burring tool.


I ended up improvising with a drill and pliers before you replied,







gave the fan some air to intake and opened up some holes on the side of the case where the heat-sinks exhaust their heat blown by the fan. It isn't a pretty job by any stretch of the imagination but my PS3 no longer overheats, will likely leave it as is till I can get a dremel; I don't see most of the massacre that is the intake and exhaust holes so it wont bother me too much.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> I ended up improvising with a drill and pliers before you replied,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gave the fan some air to intake and opened up some holes on the side of the case where the heat-sinks exhaust their heat blown by the fan. It isn't a pretty job by any stretch of the imagination but my PS3 no longer overheats, will likely leave it as is till I can get a dremel; I don't see most of the massacre that is the intake and exhaust holes so it wont bother me too much.


Out of sight, out of mind at its finest


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> lurking this thread for awhile and now I have a... Project that definitely belongs in here. xD
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The story, I broke my PS3 fan connector off the board about 3 years ago and I didn't have the tools to solder the fan wires directly to the board so I just had my PS3 apart with an oscillating fan pointed at the ps3's heatsinks. 3 years later I'm tired of my ps3 being apart and having a loud fan pointed at it to cool it down, so I hit the internet for different ways to fix the fan. I came across one where the fan was hooked up to a usb cable and it ran off the PS3 usb port.
> 
> So for two days I worked on making the fan work with usb wiring, mostly working with the ground wire because the usbs ground wire is pretty flimsy and wouldn't twist in with the ground wire of the PS3 fan. That's not the only problem I had, I needed wire nuts to keep the wires together safely, so I went got those today. When I returned home I immediately went to work on it again, I connected the grey and brown wires to the red wire of the usb (the grey wire I believe is the sensor but I connected it anyway) with the wire nut no problems what so ever.. The ground wires were still my big issue as getting the usb ground to work and twist in with the fan's ground without a problem is the most annoying thing I have ever done, heck I still haven't gotten it to work properly 100% of the time. I got it to work a good majority of the time without having to push the fan to jump it into full throttle so I just twisted a wire nut on it and called it a day on that.
> 
> My next issue was that I had thrown out the ps3's fan suspender/shroud so I just drilled holes in the bottom of the ps3's plastic case and screwed the fan down and purposely broke a hole in the back vents so I could close the case.
> 
> *TL;DR*: PS3 fan connector broke 3 years ago, finally wanted to fix my issue, did so with plenty of annoy-ment, end result ps3 is fixed(albeit ghettotasticly) with a chance of having to push start the fan.
> *
> LOOK PICTURES*


Glad you got your PS3 back in one piece. Three years is long time to have it in pieces.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i did a PS3 mod once but, it wasn't ghetto,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enough suction to hold the paper there so this proves the intake works.
> 
> I also bend the back plate brackets too but, I am very careful about it and only bend a it tad or 2 more not a lot. "tad" being my own made up measurement of degree.


This is a great mod. I would have done this last week when I took my PS3 apart. I had the RLOD and did a reflow with a heat gun. Brought it back to life. But I would have liked more airflow as the older PS3's can get hot.


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Out of sight, out of mind at its finest


Not really out of mind but definitely out of sight, least most of it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Glad you got your PS3 back in one piece. Three years is long time to have it in pieces.


Thank you.









I'm quite glad it's in one piece again, was not fun explaining to guests, friends and family what it was and why it was out of it's shell. xD


----------



## Carniflex

A third pump outside the case. Held on top of an radiator by two sided tape. It's a bit ghetto as there is tape


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> PCCOPTER AWAY!


Fear as you might ... I took it out for testing again and my finger went into it







Thankfully it's only REALLY painful but it didn't cut me as even knifes have a hard time cutting my skin








My finger also slided into the DF4056B12U ... the 65dB version (67mmH2O FTW) ... also hurt really badly


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> 
> 
> A third pump outside the case. Held on top of an radiator by two sided tape. It's a bit ghetto as there is tape


Why would you need *3* pumps?


----------



## DaveLT

Ask those who had http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?236029-New-TRIPLE-Laing-Swiftech-DDC-Top-from-XSPC-! and they even had ... a quad.


----------



## rubicsphere

EVGA SR-2 in a $29 mid tower ATX case.


----------



## neo565

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> EVGA SR-2 in a $29 mid tower ATX case.


I have that case. ROFL. Good to know. Thanks.


----------



## rubicsphere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I have that case. ROFL. Good to know. Thanks.


It took a ton of modding to get that beast in there though!


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> It took a ton of modding to get that beast in there though!


You have my vote


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> EVGA SR-2 in a $29 mid tower ATX case.


$29 for that thing isnt bad. You guys get all the discounts overseas


----------



## rubicsphere

I'll post when I clean up the wires


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Unless you cram in a PFC1212DE it isn't scary you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i DO have this fan ...
> and this 8000rpm little devi


Oh my goodness, I love that multimeter! Where do you find one and how much?


----------



## Jack Mac

This is a friend's setup, he uses a box as his mouse pad and he still tops teams in FPS games with me:

The most ghetto thing I've ever done with my computer isn't as impressive, I've just stalled on getting my heating fixed during the winter so I could have 15C idle temperatures.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Oh my goodness, I love that multimeter! Where do you find one and how much?


First one to spot a rare multimeter! Fortunately for me i got it as a review unit but it's mine to keep
I certainly wouldn't buy one new though ... it costs 451USD. Yes 451USD with that kind of money i can buy 2 7950s








MOAR pics


And another video with some of my multimeters


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> This is a friend's setup, he uses a box as his mouse pad and he still tops teams in FPS games with me:
> 
> The most ghetto thing I've ever done with my computer isn't as impressive, I've just stalled on getting my heating fixed during the winter so I could have 15C idle temperatures.


Lordy, I thought how my monitors were set up were ghetto.. This takes it to a whole other level.  Wouldn't mind that chair though, it looks comfy.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> First one to spot a rare multimeter! Fortunately for me i got it as a review unit but it's mine to keep
> I certainly wouldn't buy one new though ... it costs 451USD. Yes 451USD with that kind of money i can buy 2 7950s


:S

Ouch.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> :S
> 
> Ouch.


Real monochrome OLED displays are incredibly sexy though. (Not THAT OLED on phones)
Just too bad that agilent charges 100 bucks for it alone








But to top that up they made this multimeter to be came of keeping precision while @ ambients of -20C to 30C
That's crazy! And will continue to operate @ -40C to 55C but precision is not guaranteed

Code:



Code:


Full accuracy up to 80% RH for temperatures up to 30 °C, decreasing linearly 
to 50% RH at 55 °C


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> Lordy, I thought how my monitors were set up were ghetto.. This takes it to a whole other level.  Wouldn't mind that chair though, it looks comfy.


The chair looks comfy because it's stuck leaning back lol. He also used to use his armrest as a mouse pad but he sees a box now. I was talking to him on Skype when he got his 1080p monitor and needed a place to put his old box monitor and his exact words were "I need somewhere to put my monitor, where's a sturdy box?" I think he swears by the ghetto effectiveness of the cardboard box.


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> The chair looks comfy because it's stuck leaning back lol. He also used to use his armrest as a mouse pad but he sees a box now. I was talking to him on Skype when he got his 1080p monitor and needed a place to put his old box monitor and his exact words were "I need somewhere to put my monitor, where's a sturdy box?" I think he swears by the ghetto effectiveness of the cardboard box.


Pshhhhh probably comfier than my chair probably; How in the world did he use his mouse on that arm rest? That would be so uncomfortable and annoying.









LIVE BY THE BOX YOU DIE BY THE BOX!


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> Pshhhhh probably comfier than my chair probably; How in the world did he use his mouse on that arm rest? That would be so uncomfortable and annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LIVE BY THE BOX YOU DIE BY THE BOX!


Idk how he did it but he averaged the same KD/R as me, so like 3-3.5k/D.


----------



## CTAG

Oh man, have I got some ghetto rigging









I'll go ahead and keep myself from posting all the dumb ghetto things I've done to headphones and laptops, so here are my first two desktops:

Built from thrift store parts, and assembled in two shoeboxes.















My second computer. Again, recycled parts. Lasted a lot longer than it should have in that plastic box..





Hauled the sucker to a high school technology conference:


I've got a lot more off topic ghetto projects, I'll post pictures of it if anyone asks.

-CTAG


----------



## DaveLT

I had super ghetto project years ago ...
Not computers though.
A guitar amp in a box meant for A4 paper!


----------



## Jack Mac

My friend sent me a picture of his mouse...let me know what you guys think:


----------



## animal0307

Looks like an aweful lot of ones. ID hate to carry around a wade like that.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> My friend sent me a picture of his mouse...let me know what you guys think:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Make it rain is what I think


----------



## Joa3d43

...wasn't really planned as a 'ghetto rig', but phase 2 of a deskputer-built involving 2 mobos (Rampage IV EX ad Maximus V Ex) with a siamesed cooling system and 8 GPUs...

...and yes, I like red tubes


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTAG*
> 
> Oh man, have I got some ghetto rigging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll go ahead and keep myself from posting all the dumb ghetto things I've done to headphones and laptops, so here are my first two desktops:
> 
> Built from thrift store parts, and assembled in two shoeboxes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second computer. Again, recycled parts. Lasted a lot longer than it should have in that plastic box..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hauled the sucker to a high school technology conference:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a lot more off topic ghetto projects, I'll post pictures of it if anyone asks.
> 
> -CTAG


Ghettotopia, home of the box city.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> My friend sent me a picture of his mouse...let me know what you guys think:


I'M NOT ALONE, SOMEONE ELSE GETS A LOT OF FREAKIN ONES!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> My friend sent me a picture of his mouse...let me know what you guys think:


WOW that would cost me $500


----------



## PoisonousRakija

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTAG*
> 
> Oh man, have I got some ghetto rigging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll go ahead and keep myself from posting all the dumb ghetto things I've done to headphones and laptops, so here are my first two desktops:
> 
> Built from thrift store parts, and assembled in two shoeboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second computer. Again, recycled parts. Lasted a lot longer than it should have in that plastic box..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hauled the sucker to a high school technology conference:
> 
> 
> I've got a lot more off topic ghetto projects, I'll post pictures of it if anyone asks.
> 
> -CTAG






ahaha nice!!


----------



## willll162904

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathris*
> 
> I give you:
> Coat hanger wrapped in hockey tape turned video card support.


you play hockey?


----------



## thfallen

its a bad picture i know but a cpu pot i made from a copper end cap and a nos can.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> I ended up improvising with a drill and pliers before you replied,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gave the fan some air to intake and opened up some holes on the side of the case where the heat-sinks exhaust their heat blown by the fan. It isn't a pretty job by any stretch of the imagination but my PS3 no longer overheats, will likely leave it as is till I can get a dremel; I don't see most of the massacre that is the intake and exhaust holes so it wont bother me too much.


i'm not sure if i understand you fully but, do know in my mod the location and size of the holes are carefully chosen for several reasons. in the end of if you are getting more and hotter air coming out the back then it's probably working.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTAG*
> 
> Oh man, have I got some ghetto rigging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll go ahead and keep myself from posting all the dumb ghetto things I've done to headphones and laptops, so here are my first two desktops:
> 
> Built from thrift store parts, and assembled in two shoeboxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My second computer. Again, recycled parts. Lasted a lot longer than it should have in that plastic box..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hauled the sucker to a high school technology conference:
> 
> 
> I've got a lot more off topic ghetto projects, I'll post pictures of it if anyone asks.
> 
> -CTAG


aren't static bags slightly conductive?


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joa3d43*
> 
> ...wasn't really planned as a 'ghetto rig', but phase 2 of a deskputer-built involving 2 mobos (Rampage IV EX ad Maximus V Ex) with a siamesed cooling system and 8 GPUs...
> 
> ...and yes, I like red tubes


So much spaghetti... Got any more pictures of that mess?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i'm not sure if i understand you fully but, do know in my mod the location and size of the holes are carefully chosen for several reasons. in the end of if you are getting more and hotter air coming out the back then it's probably working.
> aren't static bags slightly conductive?


There's two types
Static dissipative : which is the type he is using, it has a resistance in the range of gigaohms which is considered "Non-conductive"
Static conductive (top side is coated inside is not, usually shiny silver) : Megaohms but still safe to run LOW VOLTAGE electronics on


----------



## Darklyric

^^^^ We need proof from that sexy 450$ multimeter!


----------



## CTAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> aren't static bags slightly conductive?


I guess? I mean, I sure as hell wouldn't do it again; but when you're 12 years old, the world is _made_ of cardboard boxes.
It ran fine, had it for about two years before upgrading to the sweater box.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> ^^^^ We need proof from that sexy 450$ multimeter!


My numbers are a bit off since the MSI lightning (the sliver one) ESD conductive bag is a hybrid between conductive and dissipative and i can't find any 100% conductive bags in my lab ... Lost them i think
The pink bag is definitely a static dissipative bag from Element14/Farnell/Newark and 3Gohms is measured in 1 foot. the number for that is off because it's dissipating towards my ESD mat
Second bag (gray WD HDD bag) is a hybrid but it's more towards the conductive side


If you need to i'll update with conductance instead, forgot it had conductance


----------



## CTAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Second bag (gray WD HDD bag) is a hybrid but it's more towards the conductive side










Wow, I had no idea!

Back then, to me it was just "good enough to keep motherboard in" = "good enough to put motherboard on"


----------



## Joa3d43

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> So much spaghetti... Got any more pictures of that mess?


...yeah, but they are all age-restricted







...will post more when I have finished this phase (#2) of the deskputer


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

I know this is abit off topic but i had some free time with a jig saw today and i did this . I'm thinking of turning it into a neat OCN.net LOGO wall light


----------



## M3nta1

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I know this is abit off topic but i had some free time with a jig saw today and i did this . I'm thinking of turning it into a neat OCN.net LOGO wall light






That logo looks awesome! Not a fan of green LEDs personally, but picturing that logo with a white backlight just looks all kinds of awesome


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> 
> That logo looks awesome! Not a fan of green LEDs personally, but picturing that logo with a white backlight just looks all kinds of awesome


I wish i had the right colour leds







maybe white







i still have the little uprising paint flame to paint . i have to find away to get the little piece to hover in the air


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I wish i had the right colour leds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i still have the little uprising paint flame to paint . i have to find away to get the little piece to hover in the air


I just think white would highlight the blue, because that is a really nice blue. And if you want to make it hover you could cut small pieces of acrylic, make clear legs to hold the little piece away from the big one and also let the backlight shine through


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> I just think white would highlight the blue, because that is a really nice blue. And if you want to make it hover you could cut small pieces of acrylic, make clear legs to hold the little piece away from the big one and also let the backlight shine through


OH nice nice







I will have to get some acrylic . I'm working on the white leds !!!


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> I just think white would highlight the blue, because that is a really nice blue. And if you want to make it hover you could cut small pieces of acrylic, make clear legs to hold the little piece away from the big one and also let the backlight shine through
> 
> 
> 
> OH nice nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will have to get some acrylic . I'm working on the white leds !!!
Click to expand...

Just my personal opinion on the LEDs, if you like the green by all means keep the green. And id say you have enough room, so try to make a T shape with the acrylic so its stronger and less prone to warping. Two legs on the bottom curve and one on the top would be more than enough strength.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Why would you need *3* pumps?


Well actually I dont need 3 if I run 2 at full speed (CPU + 3 GFX cards, some quick disconnects, monster rad) - its just that these little things do annoying whine at full speed (~3600 rpm) so I have to drop them somewhere around ~ 2400 rpm to be able to live with them. These are very small pumps - Alphacool DC-LT, size is approx like 2 Euro coin and they are somewhere around 2 or 4 W or so.


----------



## TheBrowno

Oh ok, I didn't realize you could have multiple pumps on a loop


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I know this is abit off topic but i had some free time with a jig saw today and i did this . I'm thinking of turning it into a neat OCN.net LOGO wall light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks cool.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That looks cool.


Thanks







!!


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Oh ok, I didn't realize you could have multiple pumps on a loop


http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pumps-parallel-serial-d_636.html

There's some of the theory..

Can do what you want, I played with it a bit back in the day, annoyed me but there is nothing wrong with the idea.


----------



## Unknownm

stock fans are not enough for high voltage. This solved the problem


----------



## Darklyric

is that a WF3 7950?

err nvm too short of pcb


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stock fans are not enough for high voltage. This solved the problem


How are the temps?


----------



## Eaglake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darklyric*
> 
> is that a WF3 7950?
> 
> err nvm too short of pcb


It's NVidia 660ti


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stock fans are not enough for high voltage. This solved the problem


Can't go wrong with zip-ties. Looks like a legit after market cooler.


----------



## Gereti

this is cool mod too, i made allmost same mod on my VTX3D 7870 using zalman VF1000Led and 2x80mm fan
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142462


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> How are the temps?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Can't go wrong with zip-ties. Looks like a legit after market cooler.


I baked my pc. Basically no cool air gets into the room while I have window fan blowing air out. Room gets warm from all the hot air coming from CPU/GPU's (prime95 + *furmark Extreme burn-in*)

Before the fan mod the card would hit 90c + w/ 1.125v. Now 84c is the max which is better than before











You can see that a enclosed case for gpu has better results than having fans blowing open. AKA my PNY is so much cooler @ higher voltage than my gigabyte modded card. Maybe my next mod will be a enclosed setup if I can rig something up

*Man I can be stupid at times. This gigabyte card is running hot because of the voltage I'm giving it. I realized that it's stable @ 1.10v w/ 1100mhz) compared to 1.125v which has a huge temp difference. The card running furmark extremem burn-in is about 70c after 5 minutes of testing. MUCH better improvement*


----------



## Pawelr98

Repaired







.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1693487/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1693488/
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1693489/
> Repaired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


you have to upgrade your repair to level 2, use this!


----------



## TiezZ BE

really love this thread, i'll post a pic of my gettho mod on 'ye olde' chieftec case when i get a camera. Added an extra air intake on the front.

@ Gereti: LoL


----------



## Yakikuze

HI guys check out my worklog, moded Silverstone FT-03 mini!!

well i iuse lots of cable ties and superglue and double side. i think thats ghetto enough to post it here








http://www.overclock.net/t/1423648/magnus-opus-2-0-sff-build/20


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yakikuze*
> 
> HI guys check out my worklog, moded Silverstone FT-03 mini!!
> 
> well i iuse lots of cable ties and superglue and double side. i think thats ghetto enough to post it here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423648/magnus-opus-2-0-sff-build/20


I was about to say, that craftsmanship looks too good to be called ghetto! But Superglue counts i suppose. Great lookin mod


----------



## Yakikuze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> I was about to say, that craftsmanship looks too good to be called ghetto! But Superglue counts i suppose. Great lookin mod


LOL, yes i got lots of crack during the modding, and the only solution i have left, SuperGlue. if not i need to laser cut those thing back haha


----------



## DJKAY

I recently ghetto mounted a Zalman-mic to my Beyerdynamic DT297 Headset.
just because always when I go to a LAN or so taking the freaking mic-amp with me sucks....
I used like 30 zip-ties (should really sleve all of the wires. It looks kind of messy thought) hope it is ghetto enough


----------



## PorkchopExpress

i have a amd 5770 with a oem intel heatsink zip tied on, lol can post a pic after work


----------



## TB13

I did this a while ago to an Xbox 360 I fixed RROD on, it made a world of difference and the Xbox ran nice and cool afterward.

First I added a piece of cardboard between the fans that sits underneath the shroud to dedicate one fan to the CPU and one to the GPU



Next I cut hole in the top cover and hot glued a 40mm fan to it that I spliced into the rear fan power



After all way said and done, it looked like it was meant to be there from the factory.

This was a side panel I made when the case I had didn't have a side fan, GTX 480 box + 80mm fan + 40mm fan + Hot glue = a cool system



Lastly, for now









This PSU had a bad fan, so hot glued a blower fan to the back of it for temporary use


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> I did this a while ago to an Xbox 360 I fixed RROD on, it made a world of difference and the Xbox ran nice and cool afterward.
> 
> First I added a piece of cardboard between the fans that sits underneath the shroud to dedicate one fan to the CPU and one to the GPU
> 
> Next I cut hole in the top cover and hot glued a 40mm fan to it that I spliced into the rear fan power
> 
> After all way said and done, it looked like it was meant to be there from the factory.
> 
> This was a side panel I made when the case I had didn't have a side fan, GTX 480 box + 80mm fan + 40mm fan + Hot glue = a cool system
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This PSU had a bad fan, so hot glued a blower fan to the back of it for temporary use


Nice









Hot glue enthousiast


----------



## HPE1000

Keycap+Lego





Put the stem inside of the key, superglued it into place and then filled it with hot glue to add some weight to it, it has a very satisfying clack to it.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Keycap+Lego
> 
> Put the stem inside of the key, superglued it into place and then filled it with hot glue to add some weight to it, it has a very satisfying clack to it.


Best keycap EVER!


----------



## HPE1000

Thanks









I decided to take a more proper picture real quick.


----------



## theKab

Oh god so much good stuff in here!

Did some "ghetto" stuff myself last night. Wanted an intake fan on the bottom of my Air540. Double-sided tape did the trick for both fan and dust-filters(all equipment from my old nzxt tempest evo)




Going to find a way to mount my HDD elsewhere, so I can have a second fan in the bottom. Maybe something like this?



Used the thumbscrews from the tempest evo to attach it to the backside mesh. Is this a safe mounting orientation for the HDD?


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to take a more proper picture real quick.


that is awesome. original idea?


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> that is awesome. original idea?


I think so, I did it, then looked around online and cannot find anyone that did it.

Closest I could find was someone who cut a lego mans head in half and glued it to a keycap, that was it.


----------



## Imitationcrabme

Sweet! Post pics when you finish the rest of the keyboard with legos.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imitationcrabme*
> 
> Sweet! Post pics when you finish the rest of the keyboard with legos.












That wouldn't take long at all


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That wouldn't take long at all


I'd buy lego branded peripherals...


----------



## HPE1000

I should make a whole set and list it on GH for 400 dollars and see if someone bites


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Imagine if you stepped on it.


----------



## azanimefan

ok... i'll post some picks later... but how is this.

1) cooling an old 486 with an impressive overclock (33mhz to 72mhz) by popping the side of the case off and sticking a room fan in the opening (standard configuration for that build for almost 3 years)
2) duct tape to fix a broken wifi card (worked too i might add)
3) home made cpu water block with copper plumbing parts
4) dental floss to connect 2 120mm noctuas in push pull on a thermalright ultra 120 (didn't have the fan brackets)
5) baking a sound blaster audigy 2 zs in the oven for 15 minutes at 350 degrees when it stopped working. works flawlessly to this day.
6) baking a 5870 in the oven for 20 minutes at 400 degrees when it stopped working. worked for a few more months then died.
7) baking a 9800gs in the oven for 15 minutes at 350 degrees when it was artifacting, still works flawlessly to this day.
8) and the one i'll get pics of, 2 sided Velcro tape (bought from wall mart for $3) to mount an h100 rad in an antec 902. no sound vibration, very secure, and a nice little tug and it comes out nice and easy for cleaning.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That wouldn't take long at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd buy lego branded peripherals...
Click to expand...

You have no idea how fast i would buy a LEGO brand computer case. Literally price is no object at that point if it put a LEGO case in my hands.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> You have no idea how fast i would buy a LEGO brand computer case. Literally price is no object at that point if it put a LEGO case in my hands.


Make one, A mini itx one would probably be pretty easy


----------



## burticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azanimefan*
> 
> ok... i'll post some picks later... but how is this.
> 
> 1) cooling an old 486 with an impressive overclock (33mhz to 72mhz) by popping the side of the case off and sticking a room fan in the opening (standard configuration for that build for almost 3 years)
> 2) duct tape to fix a broken wifi card (worked too i might add)
> 3) home made cpu water block with copper plumbing parts
> 4) dental floss to connect 2 120mm noctuas in push pull on a thermalright ultra 120 (didn't have the fan brackets)
> 5) baking a sound blaster audigy 2 zs in the oven for 15 minutes at 350 degrees when it stopped working. works flawlessly to this day.
> 6) baking a 5870 in the oven for 20 minutes at 400 degrees when it stopped working. worked for a few more months then died.
> 7) baking a 9800gs in the oven for 15 minutes at 350 degrees when it was artifacting, still works flawlessly to this day.
> 8) and the one i'll get pics of, 2 sided Velcro tape (bought from wall mart for $3) to mount an h100 rad in an antec 902. no sound vibration, very secure, and a nice little tug and it comes out nice and easy for cleaning.


#1 - I think everyone has done that at some point
#2 - if it sticks, it fixes. Problem is duct tape doesn't hold up forever.
#3 - crazy talk - it is hard to make basic plumbing repairs in my house not leak... pvc plumbing for watercooling?????
#4 - I have not used dental floss but I have used thin gauge speaker wire. Now that I think about it floss might have been better
#5 - crazy talk
#6 - crazy talk
#7 - crazy talk
#8 - the heavy duty velcro "tape" is very useful but not very removable. We used to use that stuff all the time in car audio installs etc etc. You literally need a screwdriver to seperate the velcro. I have also used heavy duty 2 sided tape for tons of stuff including mounting a showerhead in a bathtub that did not have shower plumbing. I would have to replace it every 2 or 3 years due to moisture but it got used every day for a decade.

5,6,7... I have read lots of online articles about baking electronics (mostly xbox 360 motherboards) but decided I like cooking food in there, not blowing up toxic capacitors.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> #1 - I think everyone has done that at some point
> #2 - if it sticks, it fixes. Problem is duct tape doesn't hold up forever.
> #3 - crazy talk - it is hard to make basic plumbing repairs in my house not leak... pvc plumbing for watercooling?????
> #4 - I have not used dental floss but I have used thin gauge speaker wire. Now that I think about it floss might have been better
> #5 - crazy talk
> #6 - crazy talk
> #7 - crazy talk
> #8 - the heavy duty velcro "tape" is very useful but not very removable. We used to use that stuff all the time in car audio installs etc etc. You literally need a screwdriver to seperate the velcro. I have also used heavy duty 2 sided tape for tons of stuff including mounting a showerhead in a bathtub that did not have shower plumbing. I would have to replace it every 2 or 3 years due to moisture but it got used every day for a decade.
> 
> 5,6,7... I have read lots of online articles about baking electronics (mostly xbox 360 motherboards) but decided I like cooking food in there, not blowing up toxic capacitors.


#3 - it was copper not pvc... used a copper plate, copper cutting tools, solder... came together surprisingly easy. worked too... been temped to put another together but i suspect the design wouldn't handle a 100+W cpu.

#4 - dental floss worked brilliantly. couldn't have been happier.

#5-#7 - what works, works. it's called the "oven trick" i would like to claim responsibility for inventing it, but i didn't. saw it first mentioned online back when i was in college, never tried it until that sound blaster. when it worked i was floored, and had to try it on that broken 5870. took all the plastic parts off, cooked it and was stunned that a card i was using as a coaster worked flawlessly (it didn't last but still it was pretty cool to work at all; its back to pulling duty as a coaster again). the 9800gs still is working without any artifacts. 6 months and counting.

#8 yeah, i noticed it won't come off. once it had a chance to cure the adhesive is insanely strong... but the rad pops in and out pretty easily... and it was the quickest and easiest "case mod" i've ever done. I just didn't want to waste a day taking the 902 apart and drilling screw holes only to be mostly "permanently" mounting a rad. almost used magnets but decided better of it when i actually thought about all the parts in a computer that don't like magnates.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Make one, A mini itx one would probably be pretty easy


I have the lego too xD Sadly no ITX mobo, or any spare rest of the computer to go with it. If i could find an AM3+ ITX mobo id jump on that, but they dont seem to exist. So ill go with a new GPU for my backup rig, step up from my ATi 4670 to an AMD 7770. Which reminds me, i still need to take pictures of my hacked in fans and fan controller.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut hole in the top cover and hot glued a 40mm fan to it that I spliced into the rear fan power


May i know what fans were used?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Keycap+Lego
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the stem inside of the key, superglued it into place and then filled it with hot glue to add some weight to it, it has a very satisfying clack to it.


Haha, cool









Note: next time avoid having dirty underwear showing in the pic (bottom right corner)


----------



## hakz

that lego keycap is nice.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Haha, cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: next time avoid having dirty underwear showing in the pic (bottom right corner)


umm.. that is a white t shirt that I use to clean my desk.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> unable to resist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Not for the faint hearted


How can you be so bad







You made my eyes bleed


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> How can you be so bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You made my eyes bleed


I couldn't get that image out of my head for too long and now I see it again, right top side: RECENT IMAGES IN THIS THREAD


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> How can you be so bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You made my eyes bleed
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't get that image out of my head for too long and now I see it again, right top side: RECENT IMAGES IN THIS THREAD
Click to expand...

I was going to have tacos for dinner. Dont think ill be eating anything meat related for a while...


----------



## HPE1000

I think I am going to cry now.


----------



## lordhinton

that had to be the worst picture ive ever seen


----------



## Pebruska

There you go, that gets rid of that life scarring picture and give you something else to think about.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## HPE1000

My life will never be the same!


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> There you go, that gets rid of that life scarring picture and give you something else to think about.










had my hand on ctrl+w to close this tab, just in case


----------



## M3nta1

And to finish pushing *THAT IMAGE* out of the thread, here are some pictures of the ghetto hacks I talked about earlier.

First up, the laptop.

That perfectly cut vent hole. Did it with a screwdriver and a big pair of pliers, so in all honestly that's about as good as it's possible to get.

On my Backup rig, I modded a casefan into the 5.3mm bays, using some folded black foam. Also added a fan controller in the 3.5mm bay, that is held in only by friction.


I really need to get some stuff to get the sticker gunk off at some point, its really noticeable in the last picture. I also had to cut the frame of a fan to make it fit around the RAM clip things on the mobo, but i don't feel like taking the case apart to get a picture of that.


----------



## 8800GT

Wish I still had pictures of my old rig...I ghetto rigged 2 ssd's by using a spider web of tape to dangle them from the 2 sides of my case







. Needless to say one day the spider web broke and my ssd fell into my gpu fan. Never gonna try that again.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> And to finish pushing *THAT IMAGE* out of the thread, here are some pictures of the ghetto hacks I talked about earlier.
> 
> First up, the laptop.
> 
> That perfectly cut vent hole. Did it with a screwdriver and a big pair of pliers, so in all honestly that's about as good as it's possible to get.
> 
> On my Backup rig, I modded a casefan into the 5.3mm bays, using some folded black foam. Also added a fan controller in the 3.5mm bay, that is held in only by friction.
> ...
> I really need to get some stuff to get the sticker gunk off at some point, its really noticeable in the last picture. I also had to cut the frame of a fan to make it fit around the RAM clip things on the mobo, but i don't feel like taking the case apart to get a picture of that.


The laptop







Very good airflow after that

The desktop: I've done something very similar to my rig, some foam and a 80mm fan build in in the 5.25 bays. I really needed the extra air intake. Going to readjust it because one of them is permanently running on 100% on a molex connector. i'll post some pic's when i get hold of a camera.

You can try some nail polish remover to get rid off the sticker residue (test first on non visible patch of your case)


----------



## zemco999

Posting this so I can find it in my subs and add a pic from my phone.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: My Handiwork
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> And to finish pushing *THAT IMAGE* out of the thread, here are some pictures of the ghetto hacks I talked about earlier.
> 
> First up, the laptop.
> 
> That perfectly cut vent hole. Did it with a screwdriver and a big pair of pliers, so in all honestly that's about as good as it's possible to get.
> 
> On my Backup rig, I modded a casefan into the 5.3mm bays, using some folded black foam. Also added a fan controller in the 3.5mm bay, that is held in only by friction.
> ...
> I really need to get some stuff to get the sticker gunk off at some point, its really noticeable in the last picture. I also had to cut the frame of a fan to make it fit around the RAM clip things on the mobo, but i don't feel like taking the case apart to get a picture of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The laptop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good airflow after that
> 
> The desktop: I've done something very similar to my rig, some foam and a 80mm fan build in in the 5.25 bays. I really needed the extra air intake. Going to readjust it because one of them is permanently running on 100% on a molex connector. i'll post some pic's when i get hold of a camera.
Click to expand...

Yeah... Airflow is great, nice n quiet. Everyone is surprised to hear i did that fine example of craftsmanship sober. As for the desktop, I had spare fans and the fan controller lying around that my friend gave me when i bought the case. A little persuading with a big screwdriver fitted the fan controller, and that lets the computer stay quiet enough for me not to notice it being on. Its behind my desk so that helps with noise suppression, but its actually really quiet. Everything but the graphics card. Sapphire 4670, little 35mm fan. Spins up and makes a ton of noise. Not for too much longer tho, upgrading to a 7790 which should quiet the case AND give me more power. Win/win!


----------



## zemco999

That's right... 80mm fan suspended by zip ties in my 5.25 bay... I did fix the broken one btw! Its just not black









I also moved all of those ugly cables!


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zemco999*
> 
> 
> 
> That's right... 80mm fan suspended by zip ties in my 5.25 bay... I did fix the broken one btw! Its just not black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also moved all of those ugly cables!


Seems to be a popular mod to move more air. Fits here perfectly as is!







xD


----------



## zemco999

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Seems to be a popular mod to move more air. Fits here perfectly as is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xD





The back of my GPU was getting the heat from my stock CPU cooler... well, this started as a little joke, as I probably have 3 or 4 of those 80mm fans lying around. Stryker and I were in teamspeak and I joked about how I was going to try suspension from zip ties... turns out its pretty silent and efficient! I saw a 6*C decrease in temps under load on the GPU and 4*C when idle


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zemco999*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Seems to be a popular mod to move more air. Fits here perfectly as is!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The back of my GPU was getting the heat from my stock CPU cooler... well, this started as a little joke, as I probably have 3 or 4 of those 80mm fans lying around. Stryker and I were in teamspeak and I joked about how I was going to try suspension from zip ties... turns out its pretty silent and efficient! I saw a 6*C decrease in temps under load on the GPU and 4*C when idle
Click to expand...

Very nice!


----------



## mk16

your all babys, that pic made me hunger, hunger for the flesh of a living animal.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> your all babys, that pic made me hunger, hunger for the flesh of a living animal.










< What mk16 will be wearing in a few years xD


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> < What mk16 will be wearing in a few years xD


how do you know im not already there
our prisons are pretty nice after all
>.>


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> < What mk16 will be wearing in a few years xD
> 
> 
> 
> how do you know im not already there
> our prisons are pretty nice after all
> >.>
> <.<
Click to expand...

Not that nice xD Any ghetto looking pictures from building your Suitcase Desktop? Temporary fixes or anything?


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Not that nice xD Any ghetto looking pictures from building your Suitcase Desktop? Temporary fixes or anything?


all i have is the case waiting on more cash to finish.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> The laptop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good airflow after that
> 
> The desktop: I've done something very similar to my rig, some foam and a 80mm fan build in in the 5.25 bays. I really needed the extra air intake. Going to readjust it because one of them is permanently running on 100% on a molex connector. i'll post some pic's when i get hold of a camera.
> 
> You can try some nail polish remover to get rid off the sticker residue (test first on non visible patch of your case)


I put a 120mm fan and a fan controller in 3 5-1/4" bays









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> your all babys, that pic made me hunger, hunger for the flesh of a living animal.


that's why he didn't have to be so bad ... Made me hunger for flesh


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I put a 120mm fan and a fan controller in 3 5-1/4" bays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> your all babys, that pic made me hunger, hunger for the flesh of a living animal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's why he didn't have to be so bad ... Made me hunger for flesh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... <.<
Click to expand...

Im surrounded by them... im just, ya know, gonna go... somewhere safer...

OT: Lots of people seem to be using the DVD bays to house fans, mostly because nobody uses disk drives anymore xD


----------



## TELVM

Alternative use for the 5.25" bays:


----------



## TB13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Alternative use for the 5.25" bays:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ducting FTW


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Alternative use for the 5.25" bays:


Sweet! honestly, if you used black card stock i don't think that would even really qualify as ghetto!


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> And to finish pushing *THAT IMAGE* out of the thread, here are some pictures of the ghetto hacks I talked about earlier.
> 
> First up, the laptop.
> 
> That perfectly cut vent hole. Did it with a screwdriver and a big pair of pliers, so in all honestly that's about as good as it's possible to get.
> 
> On my Backup rig, I modded a casefan into the 5.3mm bays, using some folded black foam. Also added a fan controller in the 3.5mm bay, that is held in only by friction.
> 
> 
> I really need to get some stuff to get the sticker gunk off at some point, its really noticeable in the last picture. I also had to cut the frame of a fan to make it fit around the RAM clip things on the mobo, but i don't feel like taking the case apart to get a picture of that.


Oh man, that's ghetto. Screw driver and pliers. xD

Also, try using rubbing alcohol, it cleans off residue really well. Just note, sometimes alcohol can dull glossy plastic.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Alternative use for the 5.25" bays:


Awesome! all ur missing is some fiber glass n black paint


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Alternative use for the 5.25" bays:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


cool would have been better if it was cut out of donut or burger boxes with the print still on it


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Lol, there's more
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And in the spirit of upcoming 'alloween
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, back on topic now


first ones a fake
its a worms mouth shopped on to someones finger.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

FAAKK





















^^^^^^^


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> FAAKK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^^^^^


oh calm down now that you know what it is it cant be that gross


----------



## Pawelr98

My use of 5.25' bay.

Why people always buy fan grills and filters ? It's better to make it by yourself.


Rad mounting.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> My use of 5.25' bay.
> 
> Why people always buy fan grills and filters ? It's better to make it by yourself.


What did you mount the rad with? Looks nice, very good spot for a rad


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> What did you mount the rad with? Looks nice, very good spot for a rad


Some tape + the force of gravity







(the rad is heavy and the tubing also holds it a bit).Haf 932 have a 5.25' bay covers like this :

so the airflow is good enough to cool the rad.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Some tape + the force of gravity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the rad is heavy and the tubing also holds it a bit).Haf 932 have a 5.25' bay covers like this :
> so the airflow is good enough to cool the rad.


Guess that works xD Looks sweet


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> oh calm down now that you know what it is it cant be that gross


was not me who typed that lol my sister did when I walked away from the pc sorry :/


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> oh calm down now that you know what it is it cant be that gross
> 
> 
> 
> was not me who typed that lol my sister did when I walked away from the pc sorry :/
Click to expand...

hehehe no sweat, but you got any ghetto rigged fixes, even temporary ones, to share? its fascinating how many ways people can mount a fan in the DVD bays.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

im getting a HAF XB in a few days ill have some stuff ready cuz i have to make a 3.5 hdd rack .Yess ive posted pictures here all ready


----------



## weeandykidd

http://imgur.com/V1xbB


Album of ghetto things


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



PCI Bracket heatsink, eventually found a bracket from a similar model, boo, hiss.


Obligatory fan-cable-tied-to-object, is now set to pull instead of push, lowers temps by about 30c


projector mount using hooks and shoelaces, (they glow in the dark)
This one is also made possible by daisy chained KVM cables with PS/2 con's hanging loose and a UPS>gangway>really long plug>c13 extension I've had since my first computer
(when psu's had an outlet for the monitor)


cardboard fan shroud,this actually lowered temps by about 20c




This is what I'm happy to post, there's a lot more I shall hide from everyone I know for a long long time


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeandykidd*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/V1xbB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Album of ghetto things
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> PCI Bracket heatsink, eventually found a bracket from a similar model, boo, hiss.
> 
> 
> projector mount using hooks and shoelaces, (they glow in the dark)
> This one is also made possible by daisy chained KVM cables with PS/2 con's hanging loose and a UPS>gangway>really long plug>c13 extension I've had since my first computer
> (when psu's had an outlet for the monitor)
> 
> 
> cardboard fan shroud,this actually lowered temps by about 20c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I'm happy to post, there's a lot more I shall hide from everyone I know for a long long time


Obligatory fan-cable-tied-to-object, is now set to pull instead of push, lowers temps by about 30c

What temps were you getting with the fan configured to push air?


----------



## weeandykidd

Roughly the same but had to clean it a lot more often due to dust


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> im getting a HAF XB in a few days ill have some stuff ready cuz i have to make a 3.5 hdd rack .Yess ive posted pictures here all ready


Excellent! More "temporary" permanent fixes inbound!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeandykidd*
> 
> PCI Bracket heatsink, eventually found a bracket from a similar model, boo, hiss.


This is awesome! When you installed the real bracket did the temps change at all?
Quote:


> projector mount using hooks and shoelaces, (they glow in the dark)
> This one is also made possible by daisy chained KVM cables with PS/2 con's hanging loose and a UPS>gangway>really long plug>c13 extension I've had since my first computer
> (when psu's had an outlet for the monitor)


This counts for two, the daisy chained cables and that sweet glow in the dark shoelace projector suspension. Very nice








Quote:


> This is what I'm happy to post, there's a lot more I shall hide from everyone I know for a long long time


Oh cmon, post it all! I posted my fine example of laptop venting and that's pretty ugly. No shame here, only an appreciation of McGyver skills!


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> ...
> 
> No shame here, only an appreciation of McGyver skills!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeandykidd*
> 
> Roughly the same but had to clean it a lot more often due to dust


Your case must be really dusty then, i have been running my 7850 Dual-X in a HAF 912 for a month now and there have been no dust on the heatsink when i took it out yesterday


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Your case must be really dusty then, i have been running my 7850 Dual-X in a HAF 912 for a month now and there have been no dust on the heatsink when i took it out yesterday


What? I used to own a HAF 912 and it was the biggest dust magnet ever.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> What? I used to own a HAF 912 and it was the biggest dust magnet ever.


Bow down to the HAF 932 then ... the largest dust magnet of them all. And yes i'm collecting so much dust


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Bow down to the HAF 932 then ... the largest dust magnet of them all. And yes i'm collecting so much dust


Unless you got a fan filter like I have. Whole intake is covered with this filter.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

guys what you think is the hdd brackets getto ? Im gunna use this for my HAF XB to house a third 3.5 DRIVE by removing the 2.5 hdd cage..I ordered the HAF XB cause it's got FREE shipping and only 99us and the HAF XB EVO is no different from the XB.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> guys what you think is the hdd brackets getto ? Im gunna use this for my HAF XB to house a third 3.5 DRIVE by removing the 2.5 hdd cage..I ordered the HAF XB cause it's got FREE shipping and only 99us and the HAF XB EVO is no different from the XB.


Very nice! Honestly, with a splash of black spray paint that would fit in very well with the HAF XB


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Very nice! Honestly, with a splash of black spray paint that would fit in very well with the HAF XB


Thanks i was goin to use stainless steel chrome but its a pain in the a#$ to cut with a hack saw lol .I guess ill stick with those n drill a few more holes for adjustment once my case arrives


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Thanks i was goin to use stainless steel chrome but its a pain in the a#$ to cut with a hack saw lol .I guess ill stick with those n drill a few more holes for adjustment once my case arrives


Yeah, Stainless Steel is a pretty hard steel to cut. But what you got is nice for sure.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Yeah, Stainless Steel is a pretty hard steel to cut. But what you got is nice for sure.


Ill stick to that because all the pc stores i called they lieing to me saying they throw away all of the old useless cases (-____-) ''F$%K you local computer stores'' i,ll still try to cut the stain less pieces lol


----------



## ihatelolcats

i tried to get a plastic amd mounting bracket from 3 local shops. none had one...


----------



## M3nta1

I dont even understand that. Its not like anyone wants the beige cases from 2000-ish era anymore, huck em up for 50 bucks so you can clear the shelves of em! or less, its not like anyone sells them anymore.


----------



## XiDillon

Hey I got my adapters! lolololol

http://s261.photobucket.com/user/xidillon/media/BILD3336.jpg.html

this is about as ghetto as Ive gotten


----------



## haekuh

a small size PC i built a while back for myself lol.







[/URL]


----------



## ccRicers

I had a spare potentiometer lying around, and the power LED is annoyingly bright when I leave it on overnight, so I put two and two together and did this temporary setup with adjustable brightness.



Using a test LED with the motherboard connector (the color I'll be using soon)



Note the extra set of "HDD LED" connectors. I have about 10 of these.

The pot will be applied to the front panel, just don't know when. I'll probably be making a custom front panel anyway.

I would've preferred using the unused pitch fader I pulled out from an old Technics turntable, but the resistance on the track it is too high and erratic.


----------



## ihatelolcats

i was able to fix an old turntable by cleaning the contacts with alcohol and bending it so it slid on a fresh part that wasnt worn. might be something to try


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeandykidd*


Kudos for Ed, Edd & Eddy!


----------



## weeandykidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> Kudos for Ed, Edd & Eddy!


Cheers! I watch way too many cartoons for a 20 year old.

Here's a more recent project, my 'Photoframe'


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Wanted to turn a very old aspire into a photoframe, but found it too bulky, so I'm working on moving the mobo behind the screen, it's like a very ghetto non-touch tablet.

Currently it works fine but the HDD header location would make the HDD sit outside the shell, so I'm trying to scrape up an optical bay > sata adaptor.
If not then I'll just boot from slitaz or DSL or something, have it load images via FTP.
Alternatively could try network boot, but I've never attempted that before.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weeandykidd*
> 
> Cheers! I watch way too many cartoons for a 20 year old.
> 
> Here's a more recent project, my 'Photoframe'
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Wanted to turn a very old aspire into a photoframe, but found it too bulky, so I'm working on moving the mobo behind the screen, it's like a very ghetto non-touch tablet.
> 
> Currently it works fine but the HDD header location would make the HDD sit outside the shell, so I'm trying to scrape up an optical bay > sata adaptor.
> If not then I'll just boot from slitaz or DSL or something, have it load images via FTP.
> Alternatively could try network boot, but I've never attempted that before.
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1710341/width/500/height/1000]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1710341/width/500/height/1000[/URL][/SPOILER]
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Or you can screw that screen to your monitor and use two screens instead XD
> 
> [URL=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?campid=5337413396&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FMonmount-Laptop-Optical-Drive-Bay-to-2-5-SATA-Hard-Drive-Adapter-NEW-%2F231024642311%3Fpt%3DUS_Drive_Bay_Caddies%26hash%3Ditem35ca244907]Drive Bay Adapter[/URL]
> Hope it helps. You can always tear down the "aesthetics" on it and use the raw adapter/drive cage too XD


----------



## DesertRat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Repaired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I had 2 of those headsets break in exactly the same place as yours. my hair actually started thinning on top cuz of those things.


----------



## stevv

Hard drive cooling for my old all in one sony: (getting stuffy after replacing original 250GB with a WD Black 1TB and Green 2TB)

usb notebook cooler...


Taking it to the next level... check out them blue wire cable ties! Fan shroud basically screwed in using screws big enough to just wedge into the grill openings










If you wondering... I never bothered to put the back panel back on.. I eventually threw panels out in a room clean up rage. Unfortunately I also threw out the PCI expander... needed it to put a gigabit card.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> Repaired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


didn't have electrical tape too?

I ran for the medicine cabinet!



Third time fixing.. second time was actually epoxy and worked well for a bit.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haekuh*
> 
> a small size PC i built a while back for myself lol.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


that's not getto, that's just bad cable management (just like me, but i've got no windows in my case )


----------



## Elm0

I haven't been modding for a while, but I am getting back into it and it was suggested I post an old rig I had made about 10 years ago here. I had made this PC for a modding competition on a long dead forum, and the theme for the competition was duct tape. At the time I was still in school and while I had a lot of old parts, I didn't have too much cash so I built a pretty ghetto rig. I was able to find a build log from another forum, but the image host I used didn't keep all of the photos. So here is a modified build log (kept short to reduce the number of pictures).

Parts used:
- 2 rolls of tuct tape
- 2 cardboard boxes
- 3 blue LED 80mm fans
- 3 red LED 80mm fans
- 3 stock 80mm case fans
- AMD Athlon XP 2500+
- BFG GeForceFX 5700 Ultra
- 1 stick of Kingston PC3200 512MB RAM
- CD-Rom drive
- Floppy Drive
- IDE and floppy cables (old kind)
- X-Acto knife
- ASUS A7N8X Deluxe (soon to be a Shuttle A35N Ultra)
- Super Glue
- Sheet of acrylic

Cost:
Fans - $10
Duct Tape - $6
Cardboard box - Free, we had just moved house
Acrylic - $4
Wood for the MB tray - $2
Total - $22

Motherboard Tray:




Window Door:



Hard to see, but there is a thin sheet of acrylic there.

Power Supply:






Optical Drive:


Hard Drive:


Case:








Final Build:

Excuse the wires...


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elm0*
> 
> I haven't been modding for a while, but I am getting back into it and it was suggested I post an old rig I had made about 10 years ago here. I had made this PC for a modding competition on a long dead forum, and the theme for the competition was duct tape. At the time I was still in school and while I had a lot of old parts, I didn't have too much cash so I built a pretty ghetto rig. I was able to find a build log from another forum, but the image host I used didn't keep all of the photos. So here is a modified build log (kept short to reduce the number of pictures).
> 
> Parts used:
> - 2 rolls of tuct tape
> - 2 cardboard boxes
> - 3 blue LED 80mm fans
> - 3 red LED 80mm fans
> - 3 stock 80mm case fans
> - AMD Athlon XP 2500+
> - BFG GeForceFX 5700 Ultra
> - 1 stick of Kingston PC3200 512MB RAM
> - CD-Rom drive
> - Floppy Drive
> - IDE and floppy cables (old kind)
> - X-Acto knife
> - ASUS A7N8X Deluxe (soon to be a Shuttle A35N Ultra)
> - Super Glue
> - Sheet of acrylic
> 
> Cost:
> Fans - $10
> Duct Tape - $6
> Cardboard box - Free, we had just moved house
> Acrylic - $4
> Wood for the MB tray - $2
> Total - $22
> 
> Motherboard Tray:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Window Door:
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to see, but there is a thin sheet of acrylic there.
> 
> Power Supply:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optical Drive:
> 
> 
> Hard Drive:
> 
> 
> Case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Build:
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the wires...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ghetto gone stylish. Gotta love the tape.
Do you have a name for it?


----------



## ccRicers

That duct tape makes for some real ghetto bling, doesn't it? Too bad gold plated tape isn't more common.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> i was able to fix an old turntable by cleaning the contacts with alcohol and bending it so it slid on a fresh part that wasnt worn. might be something to try


That's good to know for next time, but this turntable got fixed five years ago buying a replacement fader







I just needed my basic soldering skills, and $20 for the part is better than paying over $100 to have it repaired at a store.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

and the award for most ghetto goes to (ducktape rig)


----------



## TiezZ BE

it definitely has the "ghetto look"


----------



## looniam

for the zip tie fan club: heatsink retention on a dell poweredge w/pentium D 930(?)
(not snipping the excess off kept that fresh ghetto style )



continued to work great for a year at the office until it was recently retired . .


----------



## Deadboy90

Ohh fun thread, I have a couple good ones.



Notice right above the h80i? The empty spot? That used to be a small window that I had to punch out to get my cooler to fit.


----------



## Hemi177

This is my case/test bench for 24/7 use. Made out of a Maximus V Gene box and some duct tape.


----------



## LotsOfZazz

Post not my PC, but my xbox kept acting up.


----------



## Jump3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotsOfZazz*
> 
> Post not my PC, but my xbox kept acting up.


wow, you do know that the CD drive has a class 3 laser LOL.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jump3r*
> 
> wow, you do know that the CD drive has a class 3 laser LOL.


You can't see crap with a DVD on it anyway ... As long as you're not looking into directly. You will definitely notice something piercing your eyes after staring into a 20mW laser for a second or two anyway







(I know because i intentionally did)

Just be careful they use 225mW. Who cares if you're ghetto-ing anyway


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> You will definitely notice something piercing your eyes after staring into a 20mW laser for a second or two anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I know because i intentionally did)


Please don't breed. That's, uh, wow. You actually did that? I want to hear this anecdote though.


----------



## LotsOfZazz

Well the disc would just spin nonstop in the drive, so I took it apart to see what was the matter and it turns out that top magnet wasn't holding the disc all the way down anymore. I never looked at the laser by the way. Funny enough that system still works, but the new xbox I bought to replace it broke. No more consoles for me. PC gaming only from now on.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LotsOfZazz*
> 
> Well the disc would just spin nonstop in the drive, so I took it apart to see what was the matter and it turns out that top magnet wasn't holding the disc all the way down anymore. I never looked at the laser by the way. Funny enough that system still works, but the new xbox I bought to replace it broke. No more consoles for me. PC gaming only from now on.


Haha. The console lovers are going to hound you for that








I personally don't care. I only use my 360S for forza and kinect games and my PC for every other game and the ability to quickly browse the net and then get back to my game


----------



## ccRicers

I had the original 360 (Arcade edition rofl) and it got the RROD on me about 18 months later. I tried to fix it by reseating the memory heatsinks and even did the pennies heatsink trick to no avail. I ended up buying a refurbished Xbox that had its GPU's solder contacts reflowed by machine- that one never failed on me.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I had the original 360 (Arcade edition rofl) and it got the RROD on me about 18 months later. I tried to fix it by reseating the memory heatsinks and even did the pennies heatsink trick to no avail. I ended up buying a refurbished Xbox that had its GPU's solder contacts reflowed by machine- that one never failed on me.


First thing i would do when my X360 Slim goes out of warranty is to hopefully pry it open without damaging the board and slap a big heatsink on it








The stock heatsink still gets hot ... not nearly as hot as a earlier model though.

From the top it resembles a AVC heatsink alot.

Based on the design it's for a 65W TDP Intel proc (of course, Intel 65W Sandy spec)
No wonder it still runs hot.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elm0*
> 
> I haven't been modding for a while, but I am getting back into it and it was suggested I post an old rig I had made about 10 years ago here. I had made this PC for a modding competition on a long dead forum, and the theme for the competition was duct tape. At the time I was still in school and while I had a lot of old parts, I didn't have too much cash so I built a pretty ghetto rig. I was able to find a build log from another forum, but the image host I used didn't keep all of the photos. So here is a modified build log (kept short to reduce the number of pictures).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Parts used:
> - 2 rolls of tuct tape
> - 2 cardboard boxes
> - 3 blue LED 80mm fans
> - 3 red LED 80mm fans
> - 3 stock 80mm case fans
> - AMD Athlon XP 2500+
> - BFG GeForceFX 5700 Ultra
> - 1 stick of Kingston PC3200 512MB RAM
> - CD-Rom drive
> - Floppy Drive
> - IDE and floppy cables (old kind)
> - X-Acto knife
> - ASUS A7N8X Deluxe (soon to be a Shuttle A35N Ultra)
> - Super Glue
> - Sheet of acrylic
> 
> Cost:
> Fans - $10
> Duct Tape - $6
> Cardboard box - Free, we had just moved house
> Acrylic - $4
> Wood for the MB tray - $2
> Total - $22
> 
> Motherboard Tray:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Window Door:
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to see, but there is a thin sheet of acrylic there.
> 
> Power Supply:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Optical Drive:
> 
> 
> Hard Drive:
> 
> 
> Case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Build:
> 
> Excuse the wires...


DuctTape everywhere.


----------



## Elm0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Ghetto gone stylish. Gotta love the tape.
> Do you have a name for it?


Duck Tape Cardboard Case

Original right? The idea was to keep it all simple and cheap. I even used a free linux dist for the OS. It worked pretty well for a grab bag of old parts. I had an actual computer case I was going to use, but I ended up having all the parts in one of the moving boxes and had a moment of clarity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That duct tape makes for some real ghetto bling, doesn't it? Too bad gold plated tape isn't more common..


One thought I had was to use red duct tape for accents, but decided to keep everything pretty simple and stick with all silver.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> 
> and the award for most ghetto goes to (ducktape rig)


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> DuctTape everywhere.


Thanks! I distinctly remember having sticky fingers for a day or two after the build.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Did you know that when a friend steals a battery out of a TI calculator you can replace it with a screwdriver? I've got one that can be entirely disassembled. Iron, I assume, is a good enough conductor, and it runs just fine on 4.5v. I know, it's not a ghetto "rig," but it's the same principles. Praise be to MacGuyver!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Yeah, Stainless Steel is a pretty hard steel to cut. But what you got is nice for sure.


HEY i i made the stainless steel brackets they look awesome .. i ran out out cutting disc :/.. will post picts


----------



## famous1994

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> 
> and the award for most ghetto goes to (ducktape rig)


The first thing that popped into my head when I saw your duck tape rig was this:


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

BUHWA HAHAHAHAHA XD XD XD ^^^^^^


----------



## TiezZ BE

@famous1994

LoL


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Here is the half way finish brackets. The stainless steel brackets ate abt 5 cutting discs :/. I still have more cuts to make .


----------



## king volcano

Using paper clips to mount this 775 cooler on my Xeon!


----------



## TheBrowno

So 0 mounting pressure then?


----------



## TiezZ BE

if it's long enough to twist the ends together you'll get some pressure


----------



## king volcano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> So 0 mounting pressure then?


On the contrary~

It worked fantastic.


----------



## lordhinton

cable ties work brilliantly for holding them down, ive done it in the past with no temp problems


----------



## mironccr345

Or zipties.







I'd eventually buy some screws at the hardware store.


----------



## hakz

I'd use zip ties instead. paperclips are conductive.


----------



## Ecstacy

I hope that doesn't short out. If you don't have a backplate you could use screws with a rubber washer and a nut on the back, just don't tighten it too much or you could crack the board.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Zip ties aren't the best. Tried that.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Zip ties aren't the best. Tried that.


I had good luck doing that with a total of 8 H60s in an 8p server. (Not allowed to post pics by contract)


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> I had good luck doing that with a total of 8 H60s in an 8p server. (Not allowed to post pics by contract)


I don't want to imagine looking at 8 h60s at the same time ...


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TB13*
> 
> I did this a while ago to an Xbox 360 I fixed RROD on, it made a world of difference and the Xbox ran nice and cool afterward.
> 
> First I added a piece of cardboard between the fans that sits underneath the shroud to dedicate one fan to the CPU and one to the GPU
> 
> 
> 
> Next I cut hole in the top cover and hot glued a 40mm fan to it that I spliced into the rear fan power
> 
> 
> 
> After all way said and done, it looked like it was meant to be there from the factory.
> 
> This was a side panel I made when the case I had didn't have a side fan, GTX 480 box + 80mm fan + 40mm fan + Hot glue = a cool system
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly, for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This PSU had a bad fan, so hot glued a blower fan to the back of it for temporary use





1 piece of rubber, a 1" paddle bit and usual tools and as5 fora re flow, works better than any x clamp and fan mod. doubles air flow, cuts and noise and temps in half, uses all the original parts.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I don't want to imagine looking at 8 h60s at the same time ...


Consider that the motherboard is probably larger than your case.


----------



## PR-Imagery

New builds home for the foreseeable future.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OH my







^^^


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> New builds home for the foreseeable future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not enough duct tape! Not ghetto enough!









And lol at your sig-rig. "Case: shelf"


----------



## PR-Imagery

I suppose I could use to ductape on the gfx card, it rattles against the wood, quite annoying actually.


----------



## Yakikuze

Hi all, u guys can check out my worklog.

I use EK VGA SUPREMACY UNIVERSAL WB on my GTX 760 but one of the screw is missing so, i use CABLE TIE!
MagnusOpus2.0 [FT03mini] sff+mod+wc+rigid tube


----------



## DAI_JAZZER

havent been here a while and i used the best potato i could find to take pics of them.
have yet to install the homemade waterblock, just need to make a car window washer pump quieter.
this is my junk computer.


----------



## RnRollie

haha, cool
however, if using automotive... should use a fuel pump.. wwasher pumps are not specced to run continiously for a long time (+1 mins)


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

the gas pump is lubricated by gasoline so ... using water alone might cause seizing unless you found some kinda oil based liquid


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> the gas pump is lubricated by gasoline so ... using water alone might cause seizing unless you found some kinda oil based liquid


Mineral oil!








I'm sure it being a gas pump it won't have any trouble pumping mineral oil with lots of flow


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> the gas pump is lubricated by gasoline so ... using water alone might cause seizing unless you found some kinda oil based liquid


Are you sure? Gasoline is a sucky lubricant, that's why 2 stroke gas engines have to have oil mixed with the gas.


----------



## noiiaz

One of the many frankensteins I do before building up rigs, doesn't look THAT ghetto but, hey it's still was running an OS "out of the box" :winks: Oh wow thinking about that I should've took a picture of the other day when I was testing my own mobo to see if it was deffective.. I had NEVER seen that many wires and screws and pc pieces in a 6 feet cube workstation..


----------



## rubicsphere

Got some new hardware that needed testing except all my CPU coolers are currently in use. So.....



Spare AM3+ cooler on an i7 3820


----------



## noiiaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Got some new hardware that needed testing except all my CPU coolers are currently in use. So.....
> 
> 
> 
> Spare AM3+ cooler on an i7 3820


**** YES I LOVE TO DO THAT

welcome to the dark side...


----------



## rubicsphere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noiiaz*
> 
> **** YES I LOVE TO DO THAT
> 
> welcome to the dark side...


Thanks! It's actually not bad Prime 95 at 4.42 Ghz is maxing at 78C


----------



## Ecstacy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Thanks! It's actually not bad Prime 95 at 4.42 Ghz is maxing at 78C


You have a $300 processor, at the very least buy a Hyper 212. xD


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Are you sure? Gasoline is a sucky lubricant, that's why 2 stroke gas engines have to have oil mixed with the gas.


ummm i saw inside of a walbro intank fuel pump the gas just goes straight true  BUT yea the mineral oil might work reduce corrosion to


----------



## szeged

had to cool the back of one of my titans in a 900D during a bench run





mdpc black sleeving to the rescue.


----------



## mironccr345

What were your temps before the fan mod?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> What were your temps before the fan mod?


the vrms were sitting around 78 to 80c before, ill have to double check after lol. they were running at 1.27v with llc disabled at the time.


----------



## Sir Diesel

How about this Frankenstein Joystick?


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Diesel*
> 
> How about this Frankenstein Joystick?


ugly... but theres a ton more buttons on that sucker now. Nicely done, and really just a coat of paint away from a good looking joystick! What games you use it with?


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PorkchopExpress*
> 
> i have a amd 5770 with a oem intel heatsink zip tied on, lol can post a pic after work


Still waiting for that pic. I want to do the same with mine.


----------



## Sir Diesel

@M3nta1, I made that one back in the days of Desert Combat and BF2. I have since worn it out and have found no other that would equal its performance or feel. I may build another one day should I find a game worthy.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Diesel*
> 
> @M3nta1, I made that one back in the days of Desert Combat and BF2. I have since worn it out and have found no other that would equal its performance or feel. I may build another one day should I find a game worthy.


Good to hear it lead a long and productive life before being put out to pasture







But if you want to find a game worthy, Star Citizen. Im also enjoying War Thunder with the flight stick I bought (Logitech Extreme 3D Pro, got it for $16 dollars!)


----------



## Deni

This is my entry:

The Desktop area. Everything looks fairly normal (the power strip and speaker controller are attached on top of the case with double sided adhesive







):



Maybe you can start spotting the ghetto within







:



Well, it is not as normal as it looks from far:



Closer look at the USB ports,







(I used a nibbler to cut the metal):



Side panel vent places. At first I drilled some holes, then, when I got the nibbler I cut out the holes:



Inside view. Bottom hole is the same as sides, first drill, then nibble. Additional 4K rpm 92mm fan on the 5770. I tried installing a cheapo cooler master s775 cooler but the diameter was to big and it interfered with the PCI-e slot so i used only the fan. The adhesive is peeling off from the CPU cooler. Once I get stickers for the x3363 that is going in, I'll fix the adhesive with a rubber band. For the time being, it looks ghetto







:



Laptop area:



I didn't have a power socket nearby so, I borrowed some electricity from the light switch:



And the power strip, ghetto in its own. It is screwed on the wall







:


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deni*
> 
> This is my entry:
> 
> I didn't have a power socket nearby so, I borrowed some electricity from the light switch:
> 
> 
> 
> And the power strip, ghetto in its own. It is screwed on the wall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


I can't speak for the Albanian Law, but in the UK, that is a darn right dangerous and quite illegal thing to do. Lighting circuits are often only rated to 6 amps, and some are not actually RCD protected, so... you might wanna get that checked by a technician.


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> I can't speak for the Albanian Law, but in the UK, that is a darn right dangerous and quite illegal thing to do. Lighting circuits are often only rated to 6 amps, and some are not actually RCD protected, so... you might wanna get that checked by a technician.


We don't have any law like that over here. The government "controls" people through "Darwinism"







.

Actually, the wiring on that switch, and in the whole apartment, is quite hefty, so I wouldn't worry.

That power extender is used for the light (~7w), the laptop (max 90w) and a laser b&w printer.

Thanks for the heads up anyways.

Btw, a lot of stuff shown here is not 100% legal either







.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Sadly no pic.

Back when I had my 650D case, I had taken the stock fan controller included out when I received my FC5V2. When that died, I had had my reservoir installed in a way that I could not put the stock controller back in. So I just routed all the wires from the controller that was sitting on my desk through the watercooling grommets on the back of the case and plugged all the fans into it. If you looked through the window it definitely was ghetto.

Eventually got my FC5V2 replacement though


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deni*
> 
> Btw, a lot of stuff shown here is not 100% legal either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That's so true xD
btw i have used craft tape when i have covered cable's







(like speaker, computer fan, etc)
it's funny to adjust something own with electrick stuff


----------



## Sir Diesel

*Its hard to justify posting this as I think it been over done and not technically a case mod.*



*My attempt at keeping it cool w/o water*


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> That's so true xD
> btw i have used craft tape when i have covered cable's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (like speaker, computer fan, etc)
> it's funny to adjust something own with electrick stuff





Yes those 2 pieces of metal are seperated with a piece of paper.This is for powering a 1953 RFT Telefunken Vacuum tube radio.The radio power cable was cut in a half so I had to connect is somehow.


----------



## blooder11181




----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Diesel*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *Its hard to justify posting this as I think it been over done and not technically a case mod.*
> 
> 
> 
> *My attempt at keeping it cool w/o water*


Still nice to share that pic of your getto ram cooler









Got some more pic's of that last one?? Looks nice to me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












edit:


----------



## Truedeal

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sir Diesel*
> 
> *Its hard to justify posting this as I think it been over done and not technically a case mod.*
> 
> 
> 
> *My attempt at keeping it cool w/o water*





Oh my good god.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> I can't speak for the Albanian Law, but in the UK, that is a darn right dangerous and quite illegal thing to do. Lighting circuits are often only rated to 6 amps, and some are not actually RCD protected, so... you might wanna get that checked by a technician.


Here in America lighting uses 14 gauge wire, which is rated for 15 amps but can handle 20, so assuming his is the same it should be fine.


----------



## Truedeal

More Horrid speaker enclosures out of cardboard.
You see I keep the hot glue on point












This would sound worlds better in mdf, because lows and cardboard don't mix at all.
Dat cardboard resonating is nasty.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> More Horrid speaker enclosures out of cardboard.
> You see I keep the hot glue on point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would sound worlds better in mdf, because lows and cardboard don't mix at all.
> Dat cardboard resonating is nasty.


oh my god


----------



## HPE1000

You know if ghettofied is impressed, you did something right.


----------



## Truedeal

Spoiler: Pictures:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> More Horrid speaker enclosures out of cardboard.
> You see I keep the hot glue on point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would sound worlds better in mdf, because lows and cardboard don't mix at all.
> Dat cardboard resonating is nasty.






What I want to do.



But, my circle cutting skills are not quite up to par.


----------



## tuffy12345

Isn't there a saw for that? That seems like something most dads would have haha.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> But, my circle cutting skills are not quite up to par.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tuffy12345*
> 
> Isn't there a saw for that? That seems like something most dads would have haha.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Its called a Holesaw, which is slightly odd as it goes onto a drill. Fairly cheap, assuming you have (or can borrow) a drill. It might be hard to find a holesaw big enough for the speakers tho.


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> But, my circle cutting skills are not quite up to par.


Maybe you can make the box out of MDF and mould the front.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> More Horrid speaker enclosures out of cardboard.
> You see I keep the hot glue on point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This would sound worlds better in mdf, because lows and cardboard don't mix at all.
> Dat cardboard resonating is nasty.


This is all I can picture:


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> This is all I can picture:


----------



## TheSchnitzelkil

Arctic freezer 7 with Nidec beta v 5000 rpm screamer ziptied to it







great for server use. Haven't tested it yet


----------



## dracconus

This is a temp box i created for my media server containing my world record holding hd6850 and an athlon ii x4 640 inside of a diaper box i had left over.




Hopefully ghetto enough for this thread.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

NICE ! whut no black paint ?


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> NICE ! whut no black paint ?


I thought about painting it, but my wife used all of my matte black on a stupid deco chair she did for outside, so I just decided to leave it as is since it's going to be going into my Sentey Abaddom II that I modded once my Thor V2 came in (which it already has, I just haven't gotten around to rebuilding the media server.)


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

ahhh ''the wife''







used up all the matte ehh.. so you still got it HAF XB ''Card Board Edition'' ??


----------



## dracconus

Nah, it's currently disassembled and sitting in the "closet of wait" (Closet where all of my extra parts go until I find a use for them.)
The biostar board I was using on it is currently housing my 1100t because my MSI motherboard finally gave out and I only had that one as a spare.
I've got a UD3 in the mail, and have alreayd contacted Gigabyte regarding purchasing a UD3Rev 4.0 NB Chipset cooler from them on my corporate account. Hopefully I'll hear good news back from them seeing as I've used over 150 of their motherboards, and 50+ graphics cards. It'd only be smart of them to want to keep my business xD But if not, I'll do what I did on my biostar board, and make my own VRM, and chipset heatsinks out of anodized aluminum I've got lying around.

I'll probably get around to putting the "diaper mod" into the Abaddom or "Modaddom" as it is in my sig once I get the new UD3 in the mail.


----------



## 420Assassin

got tired or reaching in case reset cmos old 939 rig, old cd drive audio cable, a toggle switch and life 1000x easier..


Old CPU bracket broke to lazy replace, take zip tie hold down. 9 months later still holding up. Media server shall survive..


----------



## Paul68Rageous

zip tied intel box cooler to my older AMD processor with AM2 socket


----------



## dracconus

Custom mosfet heatsinks cut from leftover northbridge sinks i had lying around. Sanded down to mirror finish with wet 600 grit and applied using a 50/50 ceramic tim and loctite two part epoxy. Cools well enough to overclock my 1100t to 4.0ghz on a 3+1 phase biostar a870u3.


----------



## TELVM

More ghettosinks







:
 . .  . .


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

hmm wish i could give you guys all of this. Oh and wait i think there i smore
XD


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> hmm wish i could give you guys all of this. Oh and wait i think there i smore
> XD


that amd socket939/am2 cooper is awesome for my athlon 64 venice 754 to oc it.


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> hmm wish i could give you guys all of this. Oh and wait i think there i smore
> XD


OMG, that a treasure trove







:thumb:


----------



## Gereti

mm, amd stock cooler's, i have those too








Starting from amd sempron to FX8320


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> mm, amd stock cooler's, i have those too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Starting from amd sempron to FX8320


i got one FX when i bought my 8150


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> i got one FX when i bought my 8150


i got mine when i bought 6970 from my friend


----------



## Pawelr98

My use of old VRM heatsinks.

5PLN coin can easily be holded by the ribs of the heatsink.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

oh nice^^


----------



## cainy1991

My "case" lol


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Dude is that a card board box awesome .the box looks awesome black.i cant see it so well on mobile


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> ... 5PLN coin can easily be holded by the ribs of the heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Euro 10-20-50 cents make nice coinsinks







, they're "nordic gold" (89% Cu, 5% Al).


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Euro 10-20-50 cents make nice coinsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , they're "nordic gold" (89% Cu, 5% Al).


But it's cheaper to just buy a piece of copper instead of placing coins as heatsinks.Euro is also a great economy killer







.


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Euro 10-20-50 cents make nice coinsinks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , they're "nordic gold" (89% Cu, 5% Al).


It would be cheaper to use other materials such as a bunch of staples etc.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I don't have any fancy heatsinks but I do have a..... BRICK

Had to replace the laser in my xbox 360 and when I put the dvd drive back together the thing that holds the disc tight in the drive didn't really work without making a ton of noise. Brick on top fixes it completely


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't have any fancy heatsinks but I do have a..... BRICK
> 
> Had to replace the laser in my xbox 360 and when I put the dvd drive back together the thing that holds the disc tight in the drive didn't really work without making a ton of noise. Brick on top fixes it completely


HAHAHAHA we now have a brick counted as an official fix-it tool. Excellent! xD


----------



## PR-Imagery

Now?



Probably rig the rad up the same way so its not just dangling there.


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*


What are those blue circuit boards in the USB ports?


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> What are those blue circuit boards in the USB ports?


Looks similar to one of those fpgpa (if i remember correctly the name) bitcoin miners.


----------



## PR-Imagery

ASIC miners, about the equivalent of 3.5 7970s in hashing power.


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> ASIC miners, about the equivalent of 3.5 7970s in hashing power.


Nice. not seen anything like that before, are they expensive?


----------



## PR-Imagery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> ASIC miners, about the equivalent of 3.5 7970s in hashing power.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. not seen anything like that before, are they expensive?
Click to expand...

I've seen em as low as $10 each, $25-$35 average, at 333MH/s each they aren't really worth buying unless you get them ultra cheap/free and have a lot of them.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't have any fancy heatsinks but I do have a..... BRICK
> 
> Had to replace the laser in my xbox 360 and when I put the dvd drive back together the thing that holds the disc tight in the drive didn't really work without making a ton of noise. Brick on top fixes it completely





DUDE lol awesome!! HAHAHAH .I guess when a hotglue,hammer,tape,zipties cant fix it try a BRICK!


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I don't have any fancy heatsinks but I do have a..... BRICK
> 
> Had to replace the laser in my xbox 360 and when I put the dvd drive back together the thing that holds the disc tight in the drive didn't really work without making a ton of noise. Brick on top fixes it completely
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You literally bricked it


----------



## FlashG

Brilliant!!


----------



## FlashG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably rig the rad up the same way so its not just dangling there.


Loved it so much I forgot to include the original post in my reply!!

Brillliant!!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deni*
> 
> You literally bricked it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> DUDE lol awesome!! HAHAHAH .I guess when a hotglue,hammer,tape,zipties cant fix it try a BRICK!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> HAHAHAHA we now have a brick counted as an official fix-it tool. Excellent! xD


I could probably use something that looks "nicer" but I really don't give a crap







the brick serves its purpose quite nicely.


----------



## blooder11181

electric tape and normal tape on compaq cooler to make a tunnel effect and run even more cool.
compaq evo d500 ultra slim desktop.


----------



## Ridingmac

I'm fairly new to pc building and molding. Here's my first getho riggin done today. My pc is high on a shelf. I can easily reach the power button but I actually have to get my skinny lazy as up off the chair and push it. So I rigged this semi getho external switch that I'll screw underneath the pc shelf

Got this little harness with leds and a switch for 2$ and a little piece of metal and hot glue

Ps sorry for the cell phone pics. Dslr is out for its annual maintenance




























Sent by me


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

maybe i should make one of this for my HAF 932 the tower is so damn tall XD


----------



## Ridingmac

Loll cheap to make. And with patience (wich I don't have) can be made to look amazing

Sent by me


----------



## dracconus

A few more of my "shenanigans"

Light mod: Used LED Strips from WalMart that are typically used for automobiles. 12 bucks for two foot long strips containing 18 SMD LED's isn't bad at all. Simple splice, and wire turned them into a 4 pin molex blessing in disguise.


VRM Fan Mod: This fan was taken out of a $30 AC Inverter I purchased from Radioshack a long time ago whose fuse has since blown. Zip tied into place to push heat up out of the vrm's like a baws.


Rosewill Thor V2 Case Fin Mod: Several modifications were made to my case in order to allow me to use full 25mm thick 120mm fans on my 240mm radiator in push pull configuration. The modifications for which can be seen at the following link with a full instructional.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1436535/240mm-push-pull-rad-with-fins-rosewill-thor-v2

And recently used Zip ties to hole my radiator in push pull since it stripped out from having to unscrew it (oh well, easy solution.)

I'll update with more posts as I remember more mods that I still have pictures of but as of now I believe this is the lot of the ones contained within this tower.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

NICE i did the same with some green leds .


----------



## DaveLT

I don't even consider that a "shenanigan" I use 12V LED strips all the time that are meant for automobile lightning







(Or basically any LED strip)


----------



## TheBrowno

I have a 12v RGB light strip in my case.


----------



## Ridingmac

I have some blue in the mail

Sent by me


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

IM ordering some white!


----------



## dracconus

I like the way blue leds make red paint look. Almost a flourescent type of glow.


----------



## Son of Man

My old store-bought Hewlett Packard Pavilion was about 10 years old when parts started failing. I was broke and didn't have any money to replace the parts.

The fan in the power supply was fried, so I took the case fan and taped it to the PSU. Otherwise, the PSU would get hot turn off after 5 minutes. The case fan had previously blown air through a duct onto the CPU's heat sink, and was the only working fan in the system. To compensate for the lack of air over the Pentium4 chip, I moved the power supply, with its taped on case fan, over to the P4's heatsink, and both units shared the same fan. Of course, that couldn't have been the end of my problems.

One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.


----------



## DaveLT

That is really some ghetto repair


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OH my! nice because it WORKED!


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> My old store-bought Hewlett Packard Pavilion was about 10 years old when parts started failing. I was broke and didn't have any money to replace the parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A Tale of Mad Genius
> 
> 
> 
> The fan in the power supply was fried, so I took the case fan and taped it to the PSU. Otherwise, the PSU would get hot turn off after 5 minutes. The case fan had previously blown air through a duct onto the CPU's heat sink, and was the only working fan in the system. To compensate for the lack of air over the Pentium4 chip, I moved the power supply, with its taped on case fan, over to the P4's heatsink, and both units shared the same fan. Of course, that couldn't have been the end of my problems.
> 
> One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.


WOW! I think you win the thread for cooling a computer with one fan and a rock xD how long did that beauty of a fix work for anyways?


----------



## hakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> My old store-bought Hewlett Packard Pavilion was about 10 years old when parts started failing. I was broke and didn't have any money to replace the parts.
> 
> The fan in the power supply was fried, so I took the case fan and taped it to the PSU. Otherwise, the PSU would get hot turn off after 5 minutes. The case fan had previously blown air through a duct onto the CPU's heat sink, and was the only working fan in the system. To compensate for the lack of air over the Pentium4 chip, I moved the power supply, with its taped on case fan, over to the P4's heatsink, and both units shared the same fan. Of course, that couldn't have been the end of my problems.
> 
> One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.


that ghettoness... it's over 9000!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I thought that you had taken half a wheel of cheese when I first looked at it. Would that be better or worse?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.
> 
> *pic*


Now that's a stone age computer.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I thought that you had taken half a wheel of cheese when I first looked at it. Would that be better or worse?


That would be one heck of a weird way to make Raclette.


----------



## TiezZ BE

it will smell 'funny' after a while









And if you OC it you can make a cheese fondu out of it.


----------



## blooder11181

"i was a little bored so i did this."
http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1060562/paint-job/

planed everything in my mind


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> My old store-bought Hewlett Packard Pavilion was about 10 years old when parts started failing. I was broke and didn't have any money to replace the parts.
> 
> The fan in the power supply was fried, so I took the case fan and taped it to the PSU. Otherwise, the PSU would get hot turn off after 5 minutes. The case fan had previously blown air through a duct onto the CPU's heat sink, and was the only working fan in the system. To compensate for the lack of air over the Pentium4 chip, I moved the power supply, with its taped on case fan, over to the P4's heatsink, and both units shared the same fan. Of course, that couldn't have been the end of my problems.
> 
> One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.


10/10 internets to you sir


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> "i was a little bored so i did this."
> http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1060562/paint-job/
> 
> planed everything in my mind


ALL you got to do is buy a BOW and put it on top XD strips are stickers or unpainted areas


----------



## LDV617

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> My old store-bought Hewlett Packard Pavilion was about 10 years old when parts started failing. I was broke and didn't have any money to replace the parts.
> 
> The fan in the power supply was fried, so I took the case fan and taped it to the PSU. Otherwise, the PSU would get hot turn off after 5 minutes. The case fan had previously blown air through a duct onto the CPU's heat sink, and was the only working fan in the system. To compensate for the lack of air over the Pentium4 chip, I moved the power supply, with its taped on case fan, over to the P4's heatsink, and both units shared the same fan. Of course, that couldn't have been the end of my problems.
> 
> One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.


You win. Thread closed.


----------



## BakerMan1971

well there are some insane ghetto mods on here, but I will share my little one which was kind of a cooling experiment.



I wanted to reduce the heat radiating from my GTX570 onto my CPU heatsink, thinking if I put it further away it would run the rig cooler. The riser cable cost me about £2
also the fan to the right is held on with old motherboard mounts acting as bolt recipients on the other side of threadless holes.

It made NO difference to temperatures or performance


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BakerMan1971*
> 
> well there are some insane ghetto mods on here, but I will share my little one which was kind of a cooling experiment.
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to reduce the heat radiating from my GTX570 onto my CPU heatsink, thinking if I put it further away it would run the rig cooler. The riser cable cost me about £2
> also the fan to the right is held on with old motherboard mounts acting as bolt recipients on the other side of threadless holes.
> 
> It made NO difference to temperatures or performance


I think devising a shroud out of cardboard, and aluminum foil (inside the cardboard shroud) would have done you a LOT better than this.

Generally, depending on airflow moving a component will not greatly affect temperatures.
However, if you were to section off the heat dissipating from your graphics card, then cause it to be forcefully blown out of the back of the case you would eliminate almost 75% of the heat if not more coming into your processor.

Also worth noting is that odds are that card's barely affecting your CPU temps at all due to your heatsink pushing what heat DOES touch IT (since it obviously can't get to the processor) to it's top, while being expelled.

Another thing you could try doing is making a clean duct from the entrance of your case to your CPU cooler, then from the back of the cpu cooler to your exhaust fan.
It'll look ghetto and sloppy but it'll be effective as hell, and increase the effective CFM since the container of said air current will become smaller.

One of my favorite "ghetto mods" of all time was when I took the stock heatsink on a dell GX 420 and added 3 80mm fans one in front, back and on top two of them expelling air the back fan expelling directly into a duct leading out of the case, top fan leading to a duct in the top of the case, and the intake front fan had a clean duct coming from outside of the case.
It dropped my P4 temps by a ton.


----------



## BakerMan1971

cheers dracconus, and yes I have learned a lot about airflow this year.
it is my own fault for getting an m-Atx board, but the Gryphon was priced just right and had that 'military' theme that goes with my green C70,
not that you can see it under all the components 'DOH'


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BakerMan1971*
> 
> well there are some insane ghetto mods on here, but I will share my little one which was kind of a cooling experiment.
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to reduce the heat radiating from my GTX570 onto my CPU heatsink, thinking if I put it further away it would run the rig cooler. The riser cable cost me about £2
> also the fan to the right is held on with old motherboard mounts acting as bolt recipients on the other side of threadless holes.
> 
> It made NO difference to temperatures or performance


I'll tell ya something. Natural convection still does not happen here. Heat will not radiate from the GPU to the CPU no matter how close







The fan is really carrying the heat away from the heatsink but sucks if you bought a top-down GPU and you don't have a side EXHAUST fan


----------



## BakerMan1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I'll tell ya something. Natural convection still does not happen here. Heat will not radiate from the GPU to the CPU no matter how close
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan is really carrying the heat away from the heatsink but sucks if you bought a top-down GPU and you don't have a side EXHAUST fan


yep, totally agree, the learning process has been enlightening to say the least.
until this year I was convinced that hot air would rise and top exhausts were a must, as back then as you correctly advised me DaveLT air goes where you push it









Being a 570 the back (top in case) of the card gets very warm, too warm to touch as the core hits 80c, which is normal for that old part, and I had visions of my big heatsink on my cpu picking up some of that heat, of course I have proven myself wrong, and learned a valuable lesson for the future









I also now have a spare pci-e x16 riser cable


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BakerMan1971*
> 
> yep, totally agree, the learning process has been enlightening to say the least.
> until this year I was convinced that hot air would rise and top exhausts were a must, as back then as you correctly advised me DaveLT air goes where you push it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being a 570 the back (top in case) of the card gets very warm, too warm to touch as the core hits 80c, which is normal for that old part, and I had visions of my big heatsink on my cpu picking up some of that heat, of course I have proven myself wrong, and learned a valuable lesson for the future
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also now have a spare pci-e x16 riser cable


Maybe you can place the GPU sideways (parallel with the side panel). Open up a vent hole on the side panel so the fan of the GPU will get fresh air directly for the side intake. Careful when opening the side panel though







.


----------



## BakerMan1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deni*
> 
> Maybe you can place the GPU sideways (parallel with the side panel). Open up a vent hole on the side panel so the fan of the GPU will get fresh air directly for the side intake. Careful when opening the side panel though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Cheers for the suggestion, but I modded my side panel to get rid of fan grille holes, plus I don't think the cable is long enough for that to work.
it was a nice little inexpensive experiment, and should a friend require a modified build in the future the cable will be available


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> ALL you got to do is buy a BOW and put it on top XD strips are stickers or unpainted areas


unpainted areas. i used tape to cover that area.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> ... I think devising a shroud out of cardboard, and aluminum foil (inside the cardboard shroud) ...


What would be the purpose of that inner aluminum foil lining?


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> ... I think devising a shroud out of cardboard, and aluminum foil (inside the cardboard shroud) ...
> 
> 
> 
> What would be the purpose of that inner aluminum foil lining?
Click to expand...

Aluminum is IR reflective, so redirects EM Radiated Heat back toward it's source, you can use is to improve the efficiency of a heat shroud, but in a PC, most of the heat is carried as KE in the air, so I would consider Aluminum as a bad idea due to it's conductive properties.


----------



## Son of Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> WOW! I think you win the thread for cooling a computer with one fan and a rock xD how long did that beauty of a fix work for anyways?


Once it hit rock bottom, the computer (Huey) ran reliably. Prior to that, the PSU had fried my two 400 GB hard drives within a span of two weeks. One of the times, I even saw a blue spark and a little puff of smoke. Fortunately, a really cool guy at work, who had a side business building, repairing, and blogging about computers, more or less offered me a free one, which I eventually accepted. It was AM3 based system that I named Dolemite. I upgrade him whenever I have a few extra bucks.

This is Dolemite on his 2nd birthday. I got him a new 4 TB hard drive (because I can't afford Western Digital).


----------



## PostalTwinkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> My old store-bought Hewlett Packard Pavilion was about 10 years old when parts started failing. I was broke and didn't have any money to replace the parts.
> 
> The fan in the power supply was fried, so I took the case fan and taped it to the PSU. Otherwise, the PSU would get hot turn off after 5 minutes. The case fan had previously blown air through a duct onto the CPU's heat sink, and was the only working fan in the system. To compensate for the lack of air over the Pentium4 chip, I moved the power supply, with its taped on case fan, over to the P4's heatsink, and both units shared the same fan. Of course, that couldn't have been the end of my problems.
> 
> One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.


You just turned the Ghetto Riggin Dial up to 11 my friend....


----------



## davcc22

found this on you tube


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Upgraded my cooling fans a bit and added this to the front panel: (Please forgive me for terrible phone cam quality)

Yes, that is attached with cable ties to the 5,25 inch bays.

This fan turned out to be a bit loud. And by a bit I mean I couldn't talk over it without losing my voice by shouting.







Since it only dropped temps by 3C on the socket at prime95 SmallFFTs load, I decided I only need it while stability testing. My original front fan had a switch for switching off its LED, however, since I replaced it, that switch has been sitting there uselessly. So I took that loud fan's 3pin to MOLEX adapter and that switch and borrowed my mate's soldering iron:


Let's face it: that fan was always a waste of money and what I did was pointless. But hey, I got bored and now I have a slightly ghetto mod.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Once it hit rock bottom, the computer (Huey) ran reliably. Prior to that, the PSU had fried my two 400 GB hard drives within a span of two weeks. One of the times, I even saw a blue spark and a little puff of smoke. Fortunately, a really cool guy at work, who had a side business building, repairing, and blogging about computers, more or less offered me a free one, which I eventually accepted. It was AM3 based system that I named Dolemite. I upgrade him whenever I have a few extra bucks.

This is Dolemite on his 2nd birthday. I got him a new 4 TB hard drive (because I can't afford Western Digital).

 HAHa Aaww happy birthday i have to do this for my PC ''Rusty''


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> found this on you tube


you got a link for video ?


----------



## Mitche01

http://www.overclock.net/t/1426246/build-log-low-power-folding-farm-in-a-boring-beige-box-also-known-as-the-green-folder

Ghetto folding rig!



free standing fans!


----------



## BakerMan1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mitche01*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1426246/build-log-low-power-folding-farm-in-a-boring-beige-box-also-known-as-the-green-folder
> 
> Ghetto folding rig!
> 
> 
> 
> free standing fans!


no way that's a ghetto rig, them Noctua's are expensive!!!


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> you got a link for video ?






 this guy cracks me up every time


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> My old store-bought Hewlett Packard Pavilion was about 10 years old when parts started failing. I was broke and didn't have any money to replace the parts.
> 
> The fan in the power supply was fried, so I took the case fan and taped it to the PSU. Otherwise, the PSU would get hot turn off after 5 minutes. The case fan had previously blown air through a duct onto the CPU's heat sink, and was the only working fan in the system. To compensate for the lack of air over the Pentium4 chip, I moved the power supply, with its taped on case fan, over to the P4's heatsink, and both units shared the same fan. Of course, that couldn't have been the end of my problems.
> 
> One of the parts that attached the heatsink to the Pentium4 had snapped off. Without pressure between the CPU and heatsink, the chip overheated and turned off. To get the pressure back on the heatsink, I taped two stone bookends together, and placed them on top of the PSU, which was resting on the heatsink. The rocks were secured with tape.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Once it hit rock bottom, the computer (Huey) ran reliably. Prior to that, the PSU had fried my two 400 GB hard drives within a span of two weeks. One of the times, I even saw a blue spark and a little puff of smoke. Fortunately, a really cool guy at work, who had a side business building, repairing, and blogging about computers, more or less offered me a free one, which I eventually accepted. It was AM3 based system that I named Dolemite. I upgrade him whenever I have a few extra bucks.
> 
> This is Dolemite on his 2nd birthday. I got him a new 4 TB hard drive (because I can't afford Western Digital).


Happy birthday Dolemite!


----------



## MocoIMO

My minor ghetto rigging to hold/hide my Hue controller in my 350D. It's held in place with tiebacks and zipties


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MocoIMO*
> 
> My minor ghetto rigging to hold/hide my Hue controller in my 350D. It's held in place with tiebacks and zipties


I always wondered, do the hue controllers come with LED's attached to them, and if so how many and what length is the LED strip. Also, how bright would you say the color is on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being **** I can't believe I bought this light, and 10 being close to a 30 watt lightbulb.


----------



## TLHarrell

The HUE comes with 2 meters of RGB LED strip and they are BRIGHT. They are an 11 on your scale.


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> The HUE comes with 2 meters of RGB LED strip and they are BRIGHT. They are an 11 on your scale.


AWESOME! I've got 3 strips of blue LED's in my case rigt now, and while they're bright and pretty (they make the few red items in my case REALLY stick out it's not something I intended for THIS case, as they were originally purposed for my Sentey Abbadom II, and I'd like to stick with the black and red theme the Rosewill Thor V2 had initially but I want it bright enough where the internal components show well because I'm going to window mod my case.
I appreciate the info, and rating, and will definitely look more into getting the RGB Controller. How long have you had yours, and have you had any issues? As much as I love NZXT's items I know that fan controllers aren't their strongpoint and I'm hoping the light controller IS.


----------



## TLHarrell

I have the one built into the Phantom 820. I know others who have the standalone version of the HUE and they are quite bright. There are other alternatives out there as well... the cheap Chinese made 5050 LED strips are a lot cheaper and quite good.

I've got a 1 meter strip of the Chinese ones under this PSU cover, pointed upward in two rows. The are more than bright enough to be seen through the acrylic under my shop lighting.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

guys what you think of my HDD cage. Needs a coat of paint tho.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> guys what you think of my HDD cage. Needs a coat of paint tho.


Thats too purdy to call ghetto! Looks sweet man!


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TLHarrell*
> 
> I have the one built into the Phantom 820. I know others who have the standalone version of the HUE and they are quite bright. There are other alternatives out there as well... the cheap Chinese made 5050 LED strips are a lot cheaper and quite good.
> 
> I've got a 1 meter strip of the Chinese ones under this PSU cover, pointed upward in two rows. The are more than bright enough to be seen through the acrylic under my shop lighting.


That's pretty cool looking, no pun intended. My question is how long is your PSU to need a cover that long?

EDIT: NVM I looked at your posts and I understand now.


----------



## Mystriss

I've got a few:

Single braids spliced into a non-modular PSU, also removed the leds; blew it up a month later jerry rigging up some lighting...



External PSU to fit a 6950 in my old HTPC chassis and black electrical tape deco front bezel around the LCD

 

That incarnation also had external F8's magnetically mounted on the rear; I don't even want to think of how many times I clipped my fingers in those...



This one is more recent: old 92mm fan resting next to CPU cooler and a cardboard "duct" in the front to divert air to my gpu


----------



## ccRicers

Don't have the pics to show it, but I once sat a 5GB hard drive right on top of my power supply in my first computer, a Packard Bell from '97. I bought it to add to the 1GB space of the original hard drive, but the case did not have two hard drive bays.


----------



## linuxfueled

Second WoW rig from old parts. Home built PC lexan stand for Mobo

*Notice the ultra high tech paint trim tape holding the GTX260 in a proper position on the motherboard!
*
G31md7 Biostar board 775 dual core 2.66 Intel
4 G RAM
W7 32bit
500g SATA WD
GTX260



I had to use another second old AT style power supply to power the GTX card. Not enough connectors and only 280w on the main PS.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linuxfueled*
> 
> Second WoW rig from old parts. Home built PC lexan stand for Mobo
> 
> *Notice the ultra high tech paint trim tape holding the GTX260 in a proper position on the motherboard!
> *
> G31md7 Biostar board 775 dual core 2.66 Intel
> 4 G RAM
> W7 32bit
> 500g SATA WD
> GTX260
> 
> 
> 
> I had to use another second old AT style power supply to power the GTX card. Not enough connectors and only 280w on the main PS.


That is quite possibly the most ghetto thing I have ever seen. +10 internets to you.


----------



## GhettoFied

Finally ive had the time to take pics of mine.
I built the computer for around 380 total, and did the speaker setup for 70 total.
Specs:
AMD FM2 5800k @ 4.4ghz
8gb g.skill ripjaws x @ 2133
Asrock Pro-4 M A75 mobo
crappy laptop 5400rpm hard drive to be replaced by 120gb Samsung 840 EVO on wednesday
iGPU @ 1084mhz
HD 6670 in dual graphics (core @ 875mhz, ram @ 1050mhz)
sketchy cheap 550 watt psu with the top hack sawed off, 120mm case fan attatched so that it dosnt blow up.
xigmatek gaia cooler with two 120mm fans in push pull, never goes above level 3 fan speed in BF3
acer AL1917W 1440x900p monitor
Speakers
Bose interaudio 2000 with better tweeters crammed into them
Jensen power 425 watt car amp (yes a CAR amp in house) powered by a 300 watt psu
Gold plated and shielded imput cables


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linuxfueled*
> 
> Second WoW rig from old parts. Home built PC lexan stand for Mobo
> 
> *Notice the ultra high tech paint trim tape holding the GTX260 in a proper position on the motherboard!
> *
> G31md7 Biostar board 775 dual core 2.66 Intel
> 4 G RAM
> W7 32bit
> 500g SATA WD
> GTX260
> 
> 
> 
> I had to use another second old AT style power supply to power the GTX card. Not enough connectors and only 280w on the main PS.


my new fav ghetto rig. all that's missing is the duct tape. damn man, that's almost like modern art.


----------



## bbond007

This is one of those times where you do one thing hacky, so then as a result of that, you have problems so you have to do other stuff hacky....

I have this old case that was designed when 2 80mm fans were all you needed and you were good to go







I think this case was originally purchased when the Althlon 800 was the hot AMD CPU to overclock, remember the conductive pen? Nobody could even dream of a 4000mhz 8 core FX8320 CPU at that time. I the case bought it at FRYs when I lived in DFW, and that was a good day but I have mostly just been storing this case for the last 10 years.

I got a really good deal on this closed loop cooler(still waiting for the rebate), but the problem was the case was just not designed for it. I stripped down the computer, got out my cutting shears and went to work.


Everything was fine and I was really happy with the results. I like the way it draws the hot air up and out of the case. That's great...

I wanted to get a new PS because the power supply I was using was an OCZ 700 watt (really 680) and it is also very old but holding up surprisingly well. The fan on that thing was by far the loudest in the case. Loud probably because its old, overworked and never probably designed for quiet or efficient operation in the first place (designed more for bling). It was designed for SLI, but older SLI prior to cards needing 2 plugs each. I was using 2 molex to PCI-E adapters and one with 6 to 8 pin adapter. Also the PSU had 4 12V rails so that was another drawback. It was wired up like the Griswold's lights. I never bought the PSU. I don't know where it came from, I don't typically get things with unnecessary LED lights(no bling for me) or OCZ brand. Although PC power & Computing(an OCZ premium brand) stuff does look nice.



The new modular PS I bought (Cosair CX750m) was slightly larger (seems most are larger than my old OCZ) so my positioning of the cold water loop radiator was not ideal, in fact, it was a bummer, however it was the location of the old 80mm fan, so I had little choice. Had the PS of not been modular it would have worked fine. The PSU was a great deal and I did not want to return it, wanted make it work somehow. All I needed was a little more room.

What I did was take it apart (warranty voided, bummer) and mount the PCB for the modular connectors so that they were recessed so that the cables would sit perfectly flush with the outside of the of the PSU. I hate going to the hardware store, so I improvised and used these things from the back of an old motherboards serial and parallel ports.




I put everything back together and noticed that the computer was really quiet, but if I set something on the top of the case it was even better. This was due to the fact that there was a little gap between the decorative finished aluminum top of my case and the actual structural top of the case and it was amplifying the noise from the closed loop pump. I put some isolation between those two layers and now its really quiet.




I'll probably tear the PS apart one more time and replace the fan with one with better bearing (probably notcua) after a while - like maybe when my rebate for this PSU comes in. That will be something I can buy width 25 bux. After rebate this PSU was $50.

During the reassembly of my computer I was careless at the end and I knocked a component off of the bottom of one of my HDs. It was a little coil or choke(or something). The HD would not be recognized without it. I Don't even think it was spinning up. The HD was only 500mb and hardly worth the power it takes to run and slow, but I had a lot of games installed on there with saves in progress. Also I wanted to see how the power usage differed with the old vs new PSUs. Not having the HD working would obviously change that. I have this new gas powered soldering iron, love to use it. I took the broken component and unwound the wire from it, then I rewound the wire so I had the right lengths to re-solder. I had to take my glasses off to see something that small close up. I know that sounds counter-intuitive, but it works (and next step is reading glasses). I can't believe that drive ever worked again! I did not take any pics of that because I assumed it was going to end in failure.

After I was done with that I coated all of the little coil choke things with epoxy just in case I knocked the others loose too.

Thanks for reading









OOPS. After all that, almost forgot to mention that the new PSU is nice and quiet. I was running Prime95 and Heaven Benchmark simultaneously to see how it sounded full load and its not bad there either.


----------



## azanimefan

love the cable management... makes the inside of that case look like a bomb or something. =D


----------



## DaveLT

Don't ever replace your PSU fan with a noctua. You're inviting trouble


----------



## Unknownm

so I've been having troubles with my system, once I started to overclock both CPU & GPU. To fix this, I added another PSU to my case to only power GPUs

When I originally bought TX750, the fan was defective, never bother to return it or send it for RMA. Took out the stock fan added my own than mounted it in the back of my case


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> so I've been having troubles with my system, once I started to overclock both CPU & GPU. To fix this, I added another PSU to my case to only power GPUs
> 
> When I originally bought TX750, the fan was defective, never bother to return it or send it for RMA. Took out the stock fan added my own than mounted it in the back of my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It looks too good to be considered ghetto


----------



## Cavi Mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*


Can you move the HDD rack up higher right under the optical drive and put the second PSU underneath it?


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi Mike*
> 
> Can you move the HDD rack up higher right under the optical drive and put the second PSU underneath it?


that would require modding. There is no screws anywhere there to unmount it and move it up. To bad that would be a good location


----------



## linuxfueled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *linuxfueled*
> 
> Second WoW rig from old parts. Home built PC lexan stand for Mobo
> 
> *Notice the ultra high tech paint trim tape holding the GTX260 in a proper position on the motherboard!
> *
> G31md7 Biostar board 775 dual core 2.66 Intel
> 4 G RAM
> W7 32bit
> 500g SATA WD
> GTX260
> 
> 
> 
> I had to use another second old AT style power supply to power the GTX card. Not enough connectors and only 280w on the main PS.


Thanks for the reps, two more and I can sell some of this junk. I just need to incorporate some chicken wire and bungee cords!


----------



## davidelite10

All of my liquid cooling setup.
-Using and intel XSPC Rasa on my FX 8320
--Had to bend the wings up
--Had to use one spring to balance the angle difference on the backplate

-Bitspower 250mm res
--Tad bit tipsy
--not place to mount it cleanly in the switch with me pump

-DDC 12v pump
--tubing a little too long on inlet causing it to be turned and angled in the case to fit

It looks oh so silly.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Finally ive had the time to take pics of mine.
> I built the computer for around 380 total, and did the speaker setup for 70 total.
> Specs:
> AMD FM2 5800k @ 4.4ghz
> 8gb g.skill ripjaws x @ 2133
> Asrock Pro-4 M A75 mobo
> crappy laptop 5400rpm hard drive to be replaced by 120gb Samsung 840 EVO on wednesday
> iGPU @ 1084mhz
> HD 6670 in dual graphics (core @ 875mhz, ram @ 1050mhz)
> sketchy cheap 550 watt psu with the top hack sawed off, 120mm case fan attatched so that it dosnt blow up.
> xigmatek gaia cooler with two 120mm fans in push pull, never goes above level 3 fan speed in BF3
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> acer AL1917W 1440x900p monitor
> Speakers
> Bose interaudio 2000 with better tweeters crammed into them
> Jensen power 425 watt car amp (yes a CAR amp in house) powered by a 300 watt psu
> Gold plated and shielded imput cables


Did you ever test the temp difference on that Xigmatek gaia without push pull config?


----------



## WizardontheJob

My build history is so full of ghetto, I wouldnt know where to begin. Check my gallery for the full monty. For now, here is some of my ghetto. Dontcha just love how I supported the video and sound cards in my suitcase build? Oh, and on Frankenpooter, the back of the CDROM is resting on the video card and the PSU covers the bottom 3 or so PCI slots.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Those are really great, especially that mobile pc in the metal briefcase.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> My build history is so full of ghetto, I wouldnt know where to begin. Check my gallery for the full monty. For now, here is some of my ghetto. Dontcha just love how I supported the video and sound cards in my suitcase build? Oh, and on Frankenpooter, the back of the CDROM is resting on the video card and the PSU covers the bottom 3 or so PCI slots.


my suitcase challenges your case to a ghetto off!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Did you ever test the temp difference on that Xigmatek gaia without push pull config?


Nope, I should though. Bet it would probably be the same haha


----------



## hakz

ghetto-off!


----------



## whiteironknuckle

I posted this in the Silverstone thread, but it's worth posting here. I don't have a picture of the "entire" thing. My wire management is abysmal







and I'm open to critiques as I am at the beginning of a huge modding and water cooling project. I keep my SSDs inside the bottom fans, and because I routed one of the thicker cables through the back, I can't put the side panel back on! (it's flush against a wall normally, so people can't see it). I will most likely be drilling holes in order to accomplish the routing I desire.


----------



## TiezZ BE

that doesn't look ghetto at all. Wrong thread ?


----------



## ccRicers

That suitcase computer makes me want to see something like that in a 12" LP case (since I like to DJ). One with translucent acrylic panels like this one.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That suitcase computer makes me want to see something like that in a 12" LP case (since I like to DJ). One with translucent acrylic panels like this one.


with a m-itx, apu, and ripped open psu it would be easy.


----------



## whiteironknuckle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> that doesn't look ghetto at all. Wrong thread ?


To me having a case that has to have one panel off at all times because it's stitched together haphazardly seems ghetto. I'm embarrassed by it


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteironknuckle*
> 
> To me having a case that has to have one panel off at all times because it's stitched together haphazardly seems ghetto. I'm embarrassed by it


it has a very clean look in that pic. Only the case looks a bit unusual


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*


I wonder what would happen if you try to board an international flight with that as your only lugagge







.


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> I wonder what would happen if you try to board an international flight with that as your only lugagge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


"Sir, we're gonna need you to come with us."


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Is that Velcro ??? Upper right


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteironknuckle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> that doesn't look ghetto at all. Wrong thread ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me having a case that has to have one panel off at all times because it's stitched together haphazardly seems ghetto. I'm embarrassed by it
Click to expand...

I run with the font side panel off at all times. Its quieter that way. You're in the wrong thread mate.


----------



## whiteironknuckle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> I run with the font side panel off at all times. Its quieter that way. You're in the wrong thread mate.


I am the most ghetto person in this thread and nobody can prove otherwise.


----------



## MastrChiefMoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *whiteironknuckle*
> 
> I am the most ghetto person in this thread and nobody can prove otherwise.


I'm the most ghetto, and here is the proof...



GHETTO SHIELD, YEA BOI.


----------



## BakerMan1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MastrChiefMoe*
> 
> I'm the most ghetto, and here is the proof...
> 
> 
> 
> GHETTO SHIELD, YEA BOI.


But that is just not ghetto at all, those products are simply doing what they are supposed to do.

now if you had gaffer taped your phone to the top of an xbox controller you might be half way there









Stone Bookend guy is still the most ghetto here.


----------



## MastrChiefMoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BakerMan1971*
> 
> But that is just not ghetto at all, those products are simply doing what they are supposed to do.
> 
> now if you had gaffer taped your phone to the top of an xbox controller you might be half way there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stone Bookend guy is still the most ghetto here.


Silly me, I forgot to mention that's all held together by hot glue and some random piece of metal I found in my toolbox and that white thing the phone is attached too is a hacked up Nintendo DS grip


----------



## BakerMan1971

Thats more like it








the video made it look like bought bits


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Is that Velcro ??? Upper right


Yes! It's one of my favorite materials in some of my builds. That and zip ties.


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Finally ive had the time to take pics of mine.
> I built the computer for around 380 total, and did the speaker setup for 70 total.
> Specs:
> AMD FM2 5800k @ 4.4ghz
> 8gb g.skill ripjaws x @ 2133
> Asrock Pro-4 M A75 mobo
> crappy laptop 5400rpm hard drive to be replaced by 120gb Samsung 840 EVO on wednesday
> iGPU @ 1084mhz
> HD 6670 in dual graphics (core @ 875mhz, ram @ 1050mhz)
> sketchy cheap 550 watt psu with the top hack sawed off, 120mm case fan attatched so that it dosnt blow up.
> xigmatek gaia cooler with two 120mm fans in push pull, never goes above level 3 fan speed in BF3
> acer AL1917W 1440x900p monitor
> Speakers
> Bose interaudio 2000 with better tweeters crammed into them
> Jensen power 425 watt car amp (yes a CAR amp in house) powered by a 300 watt psu
> Gold plated and shielded imput cables


Nice Benchtable !


----------



## LDV617

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*


Oh man. I want that lol. Would probably be way more space efficient for my server than my mid tower case.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Nice Benchtable !


Thanks! Samsung 840 EVO got here in the mail today too! I CAN HAZ SPEEDS


----------



## BakerMan1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wizardonthejob*
> 
> Yes! It's one of my favorite materials in some of my builds. That and zip ties.


Pro-Tip
If you have an old car say Vauxhall Chevette, and it has a fibreboard back-shelf, with metal plating under it.... Do Not mount speakers on top with velcro, because in the event of a collision the speakers will hit you on the back of the head!


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MastrChiefMoe*
> 
> Silly me, I forgot to mention that's all held together by hot glue and some random piece of metal I found in my toolbox and that white thing the phone is attached too is a hacked up Nintendo DS grip


I saw a video on how to make an nVidia "Ghetto Shield" and I think this is more ghetto than that.


----------



## javecodebbs

i see,i will do, post em up, Ive seen some around these past few days.thanks


----------



## Bl00dyMurd3r

I wanted to lower the VRM temps on my 7950, since removing the shroud helped but wasn't quite what I was after. I then realized I have an 80mm fan from an old computer and small zip ties....



Worth it!


----------



## diesel678

The Supermicro mobo broke in my file server. This is my temporary server until the board comes back from a supermicro RMA. I wonder how long the RMA will take? I am guessing some time like this..


----------



## TiezZ BE

temporary is the new permanent


----------



## WizardontheJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> Supermicro mobo


Well THERES your problem.


----------



## Nenkitsune

My antec p182 case is starting to look ghetto...the case itself was beaten by...idk a broom stick? Its all dented and messed up looking. Front door is held on with duct tape...side panel is always open for various reasons, and it has random stickers on it. Oh, and the empty 5.25 drive bay covers are gone, and have a 120mm fan zip tied in place, blades open for curious fingers.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using JellyBombed Tapatalk 2


----------



## MastrChiefMoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I saw a video on how to make an nVidia "Ghetto Shield" and I think this is more ghetto than that.


----------



## Pawelr98

Found my first ghetto mod. A fan from 90's pc PSU. This thing can push a serious amount of air. Used it before for cooling the vrm's of the motherboard. Now found it and those memories.


----------



## DaveLT

That fan is from the days where no one cared about noise as such and there weren't as much noise as there is now (Increased heat output)


----------



## asxx

cool thread!
Where can I find those?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asxx*
> 
> cool thread!
> Where can I find those?


 I did not expect that to happen ....why am i laughing at that video LOL....







That poor other fan :/


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

I got one of this



and this blower fan 24VDC its not big but it pumps alot of air!!!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asxx*
> 
> cool thread!
> Where can I find those?


My fan is not that powerful. It's just strong for it's size. I think the fan runs about 2000-2500rpm but i'm not able to measure it(no tachometer).This fan came from a burned AT psu. I used it to power a dvd drive. Then I heard a large pop and saw a huge spark insisde the psu.Power in my house went off. The psu itself was over 15years old. Back in early 90's psu's didn't have any short circuit protection.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I got one of this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I wonder what it would do to your fingers


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I wonder what it would do to your fingers


LOL maybe ill try a sausage and let you know


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> LOL maybe ill try a sausage and let you know


But first put a bone inside that sausage. Then the experiment will be more realistic.


----------



## LDV617

Take like 5 bbq skewers and put then all together through the center the long way.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I wonder what it would do to your fingers


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> LOL maybe ill try a sausage and let you know


I have one of those ... It's PROPERLY scary ... The FFB1212EHE will eat through hard flesh no problem. What about 5500rpm? The blades on the PFC1212DE is sharper than you think it is ...
I might film my new PFR0812XHE but i might lose a finger in the process


----------



## flipd

Pic from Chimp Challenge a few years ago. I thought I was the only one who had one of these setups. This thread makes me feel better.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipd*
> 
> 
> 
> Pic from Chimp Challenge a few years ago. I thought I was the only one who had one of these setups. This thread makes me feel better.


Oh interesting.. I used my Sharp hi-fi system for a long time to boost the output from my sound card. I used the system's headphone jack with the aux input. It did sound proper loud. But now I have better high-impedance headphones that would sound loud on their own.


----------



## daxiaotongs

post em up, Ive seen some around these past few days.


----------



## hatlesschimp

I ended up doing my own Modmic.

*The HD800 + Blue Yeti*


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatlesschimp*
> 
> I ended up doing my own Modmic.
> 
> *The HD800 + Blue Yeti*


Razer Mouse, and Mat, and a Hi-Fi Studio Mic with Surround Sound Headset...
Something tells me that you have the money to go get a real headset/mic combo. xD

Still, it's damn Ghetto! Welcome to the family


----------



## flipd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> Razer Mouse, and Mat, and a Hi-Fi Studio Mic with Surround Sound Headset...
> Something tells me that you have the money to go get a real headset/mic combo. xD
> 
> Still, it's damn Ghetto! Welcome to the family


LOL those are the HD800 headphones though (best headphones around IMO, worth $1500) and any headset would actually be a huge downgrade.

But holy smokes, I wouldn't be sure how to deal with that issue either. Doesn't that feel mad heavy on the left side?


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipd*
> 
> LOL those are the HD800 headphones though (best headphones around IMO, worth $1500) and any headset would actually be a huge downgrade.
> 
> But holy smokes, I wouldn't be sure how to deal with that issue either. Doesn't that feel mad heavy on the left side?


No doubt, but if he's using a microphone odds are he's gaming, or talking to people, so why not use a more reasonable headset in lieu of the HD800's for that purpose. When listening to music use the Seinheisser's.

Also, that's exactly what I was thinking. The weight of that microphone seems like it'd be pretty intense, and would cause some severe neck pain after a while.


----------



## Gereti

umm, i added this on CrossfireX topic, but i add it here too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Hmm, is this good, or bad?
> I have no idea...
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7548361
> 
> Edit: i add some pics,


E: link¨s for pics
http://imgur.com/D3tg84Z,Po3hqnp,b4yyMTz,CqX5Rr9,zH5A4Po#0


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Guys what method can i use to counter sink screws into thin sheet metal.


----------



## zemco999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Guys what method can i use to counter sink screws into thin sheet metal.


Hit up Striker36 here on OCN, I think he has done it in his latest case mod! He also happens to be a buddy of mine, so I will tell him a PM is coming


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Guys what method can i use to counter sink screws into thin sheet metal.


If the sheet metal is too thin to support it, then you will either need to do metal dimpling (punching may work as well) or you can look into blind threaded inserts.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Im doin a car PC and where the double din is Im making a mdf box to hold a touch screen... and i want to make the metal sheet flat as posibble where the screw head wont be poking out... The screw and the metal sheeting has to be flush.. because im making the tabs like this what a standard deck has to prevent the whole assembly from falling back..

Here is where im putting the tabs. which will be right around the box. this is a MOCK UP!


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Im doin a car PC and where the double din is Im making a mdf box to hold a touch screen... and i want to make the metal sheet flat as posibble where the screw head wont be poking out... The screw and the metal sheeting has to be flush.. because im making the tabs like this what a standard deck has to prevent the whole assembly from falling back..
> 
> Here is where im putting the tabs. which will be right around the box. this is a MOCK UP!


I'm kind of lost as to what you're doing and how did we go from metal to wood? Anyways the image you showed is a dimple. I'm not a metal worker or anything, but they have dies for that kind of stuff or there maybe other ways, even ghetto ways of doing it. I'm not sure on that part, but you can probably google metal dimpling.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OHH ok cool!


----------



## animal0307

Gett a counter sink bit.


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Gett a counter sink bit.


That won't work if the metal is too thin.


----------



## simsim44

The recessed hole is made in a production press, in order to duplicate it you will need to have three things a positive (the protrusion) and a negative (receiver) plus pressure source. I wrote it this way so that you understand the basic components of the process. now, pending on the diameter and the depth of said recess, will dictate what you will need, In this particular setup (in the ghetto) I would think that a 3\4 socket would work for the receiver, a marble or a ball bearing (large) with a large pair of channel locks as your pressure source. use your imagination there have been things I have used in the past that was never intended to be used in a press, remember "safety first" always use eye protection when using a vise/press, or any other pressure creating tool.,
I have used this and often use a very very small ballpeen hammer 2.oz as the positive and tapping it with a soft or rubber mallet.
You may find you need another set of hands to help hold things in place. because you are working in a box, you will be limited to what you can use, if you need to go deep into the box an open arm anvil would be nice, however a piece of heavy steel such as a 3\4" X 1" flat bar locked in a vise however deep you need it to be may work as well. Good luck.


----------



## simsim44

that is of course if you need to do this in metal, if not, counter sink bit as previously mentioned


----------



## zenn84

Not really 'ghetto' but If you want some case-lighting not directly running off your PSU. The use of a USB 3.0 MOBO Header adapter is ideal.
Most of them come with 2 female ends, one for the front USB 3.0, while the other is just obsolete and hangs around doing nothing...

Unless you can find yourself a USB powered LED Strip. I Got myself Antec's Bias Lighting which comes with an on/off switch, originally intended for backlighting a tv/monitor. And works like a charm.


----------



## imh073p

That is a great idea. That is more of a mod than being ghetto. Still entertaining though.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

You know..thay have Mod of the month..you guys should have Ghetto mod of the month..this is great.


----------



## GhettoFied

Just removed the bezel off my monitor, night and day difference! Looks so much better now!


----------



## SirRobinII

Does cablemanagement with duct tape count and can I post pictures of my old ghetto psp ?


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirRobinII*
> 
> Does cablemanagement with duct tape count and can I post pictures of my old ghetto psp ?


Post pics


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Post pics


yes please do


----------



## TiezZ BE

Installed an extra 80mm intake fan in 5.25 bays a while ago:



Used some sound damping foam (pic quality is not good):



But i'm going to use another case. This case served me well and was good to keep cost down when i got my rig, but after overclocking my cpu and gtx670 bios mod it is at its airflow limits. 80mm fans are also noisy and there are no cable management options.


----------



## DaveLT

Interestingly WD uses that as packing material when they ship your HDD back to you


----------



## BakerMan1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Interestingly WD uses that as packing material when they ship your HDD back to you


if only they stuck to one colour, when it arrives in yellowed creamy almost white, it's just not as attractive


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Installed an extra 80mm intake fan in 5.25 bays a while ago:
> ---snip---
> But i'm going to use another case. This case served me well and was good to keep cost down when i got my rig, but after overclocking my cpu and gtx670 bios mod it is at its airflow limits. 80mm fans are also noisy and there are no cable management options.


Thts an old Chieftec isn't it. Cut some holes in the roof for 120-140mm Fans (or a Rad)
If you put fans in the roof, you can change the rear 80mm to intake
And you can easily mod the front/bottom intake to breathe better, so you can run slower fans

Just some ideas; then again, for less than € 100,- you can get a nice Fractal Design case


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Thts an old Chieftec isn't it. Cut some holes in the roof for 120-140mm Fans (or a Rad)
> If you put fans in the roof, you can change the rear 80mm to intake
> And you can easily mod the front/bottom intake to breathe better, so you can run slower fans
> 
> Just some ideas; then again, for less than € 100,- you can get a nice Fractal Design case


Yes it is, I think that case is about 12 years old, maybe more. It was our first non-generic desktop at home when I was a teenager. I 'borrowed' it and filled it up again with some fresh components







.

i've thought about modding it even more to get better airflow but I don't have the necessary metal cutting tools to do it right. I've bougth a used Nexus prominent R. I'm on a budget right now...









Got some airfilters in that nexus, so no dust-fest inside my case anymore!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> 
> What I want to do.
> 
> 
> 
> But, my circle cutting skills are not quite up to par.


that's why Holesaws were invented.


----------



## SirRobinII

some bad photos from my old phone, my xperia Z got stolen -.-

Duct tape cable managment and psp with speaker + to big wifi antenna. Originally the psp was the yellow limited Simpsons edition. Now it has a white housing and black buttons.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> I wonder what it would do to your fingers


I used to have one similar that i pulled from an old PC, i used it for cooling a heavy duty motor since it liked to overheat. one time (before i got a fan grill for it) i put my hand about 6 inches away from it to feel the airflow, aaannd it sucked my hand in cutting about halfway into two of my fingers, and it broke two of the fan blades.


----------



## chrisjames61

Antec Skeleton, ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3, AMD 965 BE, Corsair H100 zip tied on. The power, reset switches and HD activity light are scrounged from a Lian Li case. The Antec wiring broke like day one. Freaking garbage.

front.JPG 2274k .JPG file


back.JPG 2223k .JPG file


I don't know why I can't see my pics I uploaded. I had "import images" clicked on. sigh.....


----------



## Gereti

Got new case, now my 2 Psu setup fit's better on case


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Antec Skeleton, ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3, AMD 965 BE, Corsair H100 zip tied on. The power, reset switches and HD activity light are scrounged from a Lian Li case. The Antec wiring broke like day one. Freaking garbage.
> 
> front.JPG 2274k .JPG file
> 
> 
> back.JPG 2223k .JPG file
> 
> 
> I don't know why I can't see my pics I uploaded. I had "import images" clicked on. sigh.....


I think you clicked on the paperclip instead of the image icon.


----------



## chrisjames61

[IMG


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatlesschimp*
> 
> I ended up doing my own Modmic.
> 
> *The HD800 + Blue Yeti*


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> [IMG


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Another overclock user gave you Rep for your post in Post your "ghetto rigging" shenanigans
> 
> "Thats badass. Total wattage?"


Thanks









XFX550W+ Chieftec 750W= 1300W (those are listed, on *manhattan by night rig*







)
But, chieftec 750W give power, ounly to one 6pin pci-e cable (6970) and couple fan+HDD
XFX550W power's 3x8pin pci-e, cpu,+mobo
but it run's fine, i have to figure out somewhere, adapter to make atx24pin cable longer so i could power my mobo with chieftec, i quess that 2x18A could hande one 1055T even overclocked


----------



## ccRicers

My ISP is so bad that people have been ghetto rigging their modems with a pigtail and external Wimax antenna to get a better connection. Maybe when I'm brave enough I'll pop mine open and do what this guy does.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Installed an extra 80mm intake fan in 5.25 bays a while ago:
> 
> 
> 
> Used some sound damping foam (pic quality is not good):
> 
> 
> 
> But i'm going to use another case. This case served me well and was good to keep cost down when i got my rig, but after overclocking my cpu and gtx670 bios mod it is at its airflow limits. 80mm fans are also noisy and there are no cable management options.


Chieftec Dragon







I have it in blue and had been using it for 10 years.


----------



## Lynchie

This has to be one of my favourite threads. ghetto mods seem to put peoples imaginations in the forefront instead of their wallet


----------



## Nenkitsune

Oh I got one I need to post a pic of.
My biostar board has a cmos reset jumper, but it happens to be under my graphics card and difficult to reach.

When I realized that I clipped the plug off a 3 pin fan, and plugged it in where the jumper goes. I followed the saying "red and yellow kill a fellow, red and black venom lack" for identifying coral snakes, so red/black=good red/yellow=reset. The wires are just twisted together.

Ill take some pics of my beat up rig one day

Sent from my SPH-L900 using JellyBombed Tapatalk 2


----------



## Gereti

i used my reset button on cmosclear jumper,


----------



## ccRicers

I was watching this video: 




It reminded me of this thread. So funny when he talks about the "custom cooling" at 2:45 and shows what appears to be an 80mm case fan.


----------



## Roxycon

Not as ghetto as your ghetto but here are mine three things using what i have rather than buying something appropriate











Mayhems bottle cap anti vibration mod



3rd rad (a alphacool ut30 360) mounted using velcro and some left over tubing walls



Needed a 4th hdd on my 3 hdd bay, took of the velcro and sandwiched it in between two hdd's instead and used the velcro on my corsair link commander


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I was watching this video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It reminded me of this thread. So funny when he talks about the "custom cooling" at 2:45 and shows what appears to be an 80mm case fan.


I watched the whole series. Wow


----------



## SirRobinII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Not as ghetto as your ghetto but here are mine three things using what i have rather than buying something appropriate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems bottle cap anti vibration mod
> 
> 
> 
> 3rd rad (a alphacool ut30 360) mounted using velcro and some left over tubing walls
> 
> 
> 
> Needed a 4th hdd on my 3 hdd bay, took of the velcro and sandwiched it in between two hdd's instead and used the velcro on my corsair link commander


expensive build with ghetto rigging :/


----------



## PorkchopExpress

check out the sweet heatsink on my 5770, and ya thats authentic intel from my 4670k. fishing line and zip ties holding it on.


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> Needed a 4th hdd on my 3 hdd bay, took of the velcro and sandwiched it in between two hdd's instead and used the velcro on my corsair link commander


Is that a gold HDD?!


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lynchie*
> 
> This has to be one of my favourite threads. ghetto mods seem to put peoples imaginations in the forefront instead of their wallet


I think most guys just love to tinker. Whether its cars, computers, anything....


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PorkchopExpress*
> 
> check out the sweet heatsink on my 5770, and ya thats authentic intel from my 4670k. fishing line and zip ties holding it on.


What pound test fishing line?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirRobinII*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> expensive build with ghetto rigging :/


I think L brackets for the rad and sandwiching shoggy sandwiches for the bayres would look more ghetto than what its like now.. Cant see the ghetto unless i point it out








Quote:


> Is that a gold HDD?!


Lightning gets much more richer with the direct light from my lamp and the hdd is a tad more brownish than the normal colour on a hdd.. Cant remember its name, i salvaged it last year from my high school laptop


----------



## milkman6453

Broke a Noctua clip, used bread tie!


----------



## Jack Mac

That looks a little close, is there a reason why you didn't choose to move your card down a slot?


----------



## milkman6453

Not really, it still pulls in plenty of air, from the sides and even where they are close.
It is about 3/8ths of an inch...

more like half an inch


----------



## Nenkitsune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lynchie*
> 
> This has to be one of my favourite threads. ghetto mods seem to put peoples imaginations in the forefront instead of their wallet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think most guys just love to tinker. Whether its cars, computers, anything....
Click to expand...

Pretty much if its got fasteners, or room to add stuff, stuff will be added, and fasteners will be removed.

Doesnt matter what it is for tinkering guys lol

Sent from my SPH-L900 using JellyBombed Tapatalk 2


----------



## Lord Xeb




----------



## M3nta1

Spoiler: Something Interesting



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb*






So... thats a chunk of laptop heatsink with the heatpipe bent in order to cool something under your graphics card.


----------



## Lord Xeb

Actually, I used the following:
Heat sink from some Mac Pro RAM (heavily modified and cut to shape)
Heat sink (heavily modified) from an HD2900XT (from a mac pro)
CPU heat sink from a lenovo all-in-one system + fan


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb*
> 
> Actually, I used the following:
> Heat sink from some Mac Pro RAM (heavily modified and cut to shape)
> Heat sink (heavily modified) from an HD2900XT (from a mac pro)
> CPU heat sink from a lenovo all-in-one system + fan


Please tell me you have more pictures. That is just so over the top i cant help but feel a need for more


----------



## stevv

Onsite... late night... needed SATA power splitter... didn't have electrical tape either...


----------



## Lord Xeb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lord Xeb*
> 
> Actually, I used the following:
> Heat sink from some Mac Pro RAM (heavily modified and cut to shape)
> Heat sink (heavily modified) from an HD2900XT (from a mac pro)
> CPU heat sink from a lenovo all-in-one system + fan
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me you have more pictures. That is just so over the top i cant help but feel a need for more
Click to expand...

I will see if I can you guys some


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Xeb stop putting mac parts in real computers!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Xeb stop putting mac parts in real computers!


haha. Mac's are computers too! lol


----------



## GhettoFied

Updated my 'rig a bit. Got an old eMachines case for $10 off craigslist, took out everything, tried to paint with truck bed liner, that didn't work so I had to scrape it off, and now it looks kinda space-punk like a star wars prop. Also got two Antec TrueQuiet fans for 6$ each on black friday, and a Samsung 840 Evo 120gb about 3 weeks ago.


----------



## Mystriss

I spy Duct Tape!! Is that an auto-win, or cheating? hahaha

Also I love the masking tape wire split, I've been there


----------



## chrisjames61

I don't have any pics but I lapped a A10-5800K, a 960T, 1055T, 965 BE and a FX 6300. I also lapped all the heatsinks too. Two Hyper Evo 212's, two really heavy copper heatsinks repurposed from Opteron based servers and a H100. I worked from 400 grit to 2500 grit. Talk about a lot of work. Gotta be really careful about bending pins. In the end I had mirror finishes on everything. Soon I'll be doing a Kaveri!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> I don't have any pics but I lapped a A10-5800K, a 960T, 1055T, 965 BE and a FX 6300. I also lapped all the heatsinks too. Two Hyper Evo 212's, two really heavy copper heatsinks repurposed from Opteron based servers and a H100. I worked from 400 grit to 2500 grit. Talk about a lot of work. Gotta be really careful about bending pins. In the end I had mirror finishes on everything. Soon I'll be doing a Kaveri!


I find it (myself of course) to bend a AM series socket pins by accident








Anyway, are they the 2U ones? With a seriously loud 60mm fan?


----------



## chrisjames61

Yes, the fans are loud. But these are really good heatsinks. Can't see spending money on aftermarket heatsinks when I have these. Fan noise doesn't bother me. I am 53 years old and have a hearing impairment.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Yes, the fans are loud. But these are really good heatsinks. Can't see spending money on aftermarket heatsinks when I have these. Fan noise doesn't bother me. I am 53 years old and have a hearing impairment.


As a big FAN of delta FANS (pun intended) i don't care much for noise either. Just check out my fans on full power! 66.7dBa!








Yep. Those are very well built heatsinks


----------



## chrisjames61

I have a huge Delta fan I pulled out of a Mirror Drive Door G4. The thing is like a window fan. The amount of air it pushes is amazing. Its built like a tank too.


----------



## zemco999

I can't afford my own GTX 780... so I made one! Link to partial log is in my sig


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald




----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zemco999*
> 
> I can't afford my own GTX 780... so I made one! Link to partial log is in my sig


10/10


----------



## TiezZ BE

Benchmarks plz


----------



## zemco999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> 10/10


Thank you, Thank you


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zemco999*
> 
> I can't afford my own GTX 780... so I made one! Link to partial log is in my sig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


COOLIN POWA!!!


----------



## bbond007

I was running an older septre 24 inch monitor and a dell 23 inch monitor on a dual monitor stand. The dell has no vesa mount to I had rigged it. Anyway the septre was a different resolution(1920x1200). It was also pretty heavy and thick compared to modern LED tech. I decided it would be better to get another 23" 1080p monitor which I did on black Friday at Best Buy(lg 23EA63V-P). I totally did not read the specs on Nvidia Surround, because if I did I'd have read that in fact need 3 like monitors and just two would not bee sufficient.

I had to get another LG monitor but Black Friday was over, so Best Buy's price shot back up... I ordered a identical refurbished one with free shipping from Best Buy and it turned out to be just fine.

My issue was that I has a dell 23 inch Dell monitor without vesa mount(thanks Dell). Well, I've also lost the stand for the monitor







it really needed a taller stand anyway if it was going to be on the same plane as the other two LGs.

Also, I had been accustomed to monitoring my system stats while I game to optimize my settings(on the old septre). With just 3 monitors I would not be able to do that as they would be bonded together to operating as a single monitor. For that I bought a $60 Hanns-g 16" monitor but I wish there were better options in 16" but its not bad.

With aluminum parts I obtained fromn the Home Depot, I rigged these monitors stands and that is all there is to say other than the fact that multi-monitor gaming is really fantastic and brings it to the next level.

yes, The c-clamp holding the monitor steady to the desk is part of the finished product


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice battle station


----------



## simsim44

I love the set up. got me thinkin, and that's never good


----------



## TiezZ BE

You've hidden the ghettoness on it well.









It would even look better if monitors are debezeled imo


----------



## SirRobinII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I was running an older septre 24 inch monitor and a dell 23 inch monitor on a dual monitor stand. The dell has no vesa mount to I had rigged it. Anyway the septre was a different resolution(1920x1200). It was also pretty heavy and thick compared to modern LED tech. I decided it would be better to get another 23" 1080p monitor which I did on black Friday at Best Buy(lg 23EA63V-P). I totally did not read the specs on Nvidia Surround, because if I did I'd have read that in fact need 3 like monitors and just two would not bee sufficient.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I had to get another LG monitor but Black Friday was over, so Best Buy's price shot back up... I ordered a identical refurbished one with free shipping from Best Buy and it turned out to be just fine.
> 
> My issue was that I has a dell 23 inch Dell monitor without vesa mount(thanks Dell). Well, I've also lost the stand for the monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it really needed a taller stand anyway if it was going to be on the same plane as the other two LGs.
> 
> Also, I had been accustomed to monitoring my system stats while I game to optimize my settings(on the old septre). With just 3 monitors I would not be able to do that as they would be bonded together to operating as a single monitor. For that I bought a $60 Hanns-g 16" monitor but I wish there were better options in 16" but its not bad.
> 
> With aluminum parts I obtained fromn the Home Depot, I rigged these monitors stands and that is all there is to say other than the fact that multi-monitor gaming is really fantastic and brings it to the next level.
> 
> yes, The c-clamp holding the monitor steady to the desk is part of the finished product


looks to professional to be ghetto


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> You've hidden the ghettoness on it well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would even look better if monitors are debezeled imo


I'll have to look into that. With the two LGs there is really only a bezel on the very bottom so I would probably leave those stock. The Dell might look a little better without the bezel, yet it would look even better if it was another refurb LG


----------



## stickg1

Couldn't take the noise and heat on my R9 290, for your viewing pleasure


----------



## TheBrowno

you know nzxt make a thing for that now


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> you know nzxt make a thing for that now


Pretty sure they're out of stock.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah they don't start shipping the next batch of those brackets until mid jan


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zemco999*
> 
> I can't afford my own GTX 780... so I made one! Link to partial log is in my sig


I wish it was that easy.


----------



## zemco999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I wish it was that easy.


Don't we all...


----------



## Zutwak

My Antec 902 didn't have enough room to space out my sli'd 660 ti's due to the PSU being too close to the bottom card. I was getting temps of 75 degrees on the hot card. Not critical but very noisy!

The solution: $10 mailbox, an angle grinder and some brackets and bolts.

Vid cards run a nice cool 51 degrees C under load now










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That's your first post? Welcome, and I'm happy to see you have your priorities straight!


----------



## Zutwak

Thank you! Could not resist, some brilliant stuff in this thread!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zutwak*
> 
> Thank you! Could not resist, some brilliant stuff in this thread!


I made my account only for this thread!!!


----------



## Driftmonkey

Does pulling my CD/DVD Drive out, ripping rear of case for extra power cord, and adding in a extra power supply to the drive bay count as ghetto..?


----------



## SirRobinII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zutwak*
> 
> My Antec 902 didn't have enough room to space out my sli'd 660 ti's due to the PSU being too close to the bottom card. I was getting temps of 75 degrees on the hot card. Not critical but very noisy!
> 
> The solution: $10 mailbox, an angle grinder and some brackets and bolts.
> 
> Vid cards run a nice cool 51 degrees C under load now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice one ! maybe paint it also black.


----------



## simsim44

definitely ghetto


----------



## Zutwak

Yeah
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirRobinII*
> 
> Nice one ! maybe paint it also black.


Definately will. Might even stick some mesh around the whole bottom at some point. Kind of enjoying how dodgy it feels right now, as soon as the amusement wears off I'll revisit


----------



## Ridingmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> 
> 
> Does pulling my CD/DVD Drive out, ripping rear of case for extra power cord, and adding in a extra power supply to the drive bay count as ghetto..?


lol I think the cable management alone counts as getho lolll


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ridingmac*
> 
> lol I think the cable management alone counts as getho lolll


Cable management? What cable management?


----------



## Mystriss

Does mid-mod, "hmm these cables are too short so I'll just jerry rig it for now" count as ghetto?


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> 
> 
> Does pulling my CD/DVD Drive out, ripping rear of case for extra power cord, and adding in a extra power supply to the drive bay count as ghetto..?


how did that siverstone power supply go thort you were getting one last thread i looked at of youse


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Does mid-mod, "hmm these cables are too short so I'll just jerry rig it for now" count as ghetto?


That it does. Is that two computer cases slapped together? Or is one side for rads or something? Either way its pretty awesome.


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> 
> 
> Does pulling my CD/DVD Drive out, ripping rear of case for extra power cord, and adding in a extra power supply to the drive bay count as ghetto..?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how did that siverstone power supply go thort you were getting one last thread i looked at of youse
Click to expand...

Ended up selling for $68, which is more than I'm willing to pay for it. Have a couple other options in mind, though. Still waiting on my watercooling + a few other things to come.


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Ended up selling for $68, which is more than I'm willing to pay for it. Have a couple other options in mind, though. Still waiting on my watercooling + a few other things to come.


well that sucks ill check ocau for sme deals might be able ot work somtihng out for ya


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Does mid-mod, "hmm these cables are too short so I'll just jerry rig it for now" count as ghetto?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That definitly counts!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> That it does. Is that two computer cases slapped together? Or is one side for rads or something? Either way its pretty awesome.


Yea it's two SilverStone HTPC cases on their sides, I had to leave the front bezel off one to plug in my far too short sata cables.







Eventually they'll be stacked, the one on the right is customized for my mb and res only (brushed aluminum under the blue tape):


----------



## theKab

Going home for Christmas and my air 540 is too big to come along:



Temperatures are still ok for idle at least. Gonna test some games before packing it up!


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> That it does. Is that two computer cases slapped together? Or is one side for rads or something? Either way its pretty awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea it's two SilverStone HTPC cases on their sides, I had to leave the front bezel off one to plug in my far too short sata cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually they'll be stacked, the one on the right is customized for my mb and res only (brushed aluminum under the blue tape):
Click to expand...

Looks awesome. Certainly a unique way of doing things.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theKab*
> 
> Going home for Christmas and my air 540 is too big to come along:
> 
> 
> 
> Temperatures are still ok for idle at least. Gonna test some games before packing it up!


You should take away that antistatic bag before you fry your mb, just use the cardboard box


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> You should take away that antistatic bag before you fry your mb, just use the cardboard box


This. The outside *is conductive*.


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> This. The outside *is conductive*.


I actually didn't know this. I do that every time I test a new mobo.... damn


----------



## theKab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> I actually didn't know this. I do that every time I test a new mobo.... damn


Oh snap I had no idea! Thanks guys!


----------



## mike44njdevils

based on the last few comments, ASUS, Giga, and MSI are re-writing their RMA guidelines....


----------



## Zonengorg

Hi guys, this could sound extrange but, is there a Ghetto Mod Offical Club??


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mike44njdevils*
> 
> based on the last few comments, ASUS, Giga, and MSI are re-writing their RMA guidelines....












Although seems wierd they would accept a open world test derp rma









I woul be veryvery thankful to asus if they accepted a replacement if this went wrong


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zonengorg*
> 
> Hi guys, this could sound extrange but, is there a Ghetto Mod Offical Club??


There needs to be


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although seems wierd they would accept a open world test derp rma
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I woul be veryvery thankful to asus if they accepted a replacement if this went wrong


Doesn't toilet paper break apart more easily than say paper towels etc.? I think you're asking for trouble with that unless it's there to clean yourself when something goes wrong


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> I actually didn't know this. I do that every time I test a new mobo.... damn


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theKab*
> 
> Oh snap I had no idea! Thanks guys!


No worries. We were all noobs at one point.


----------



## Zonengorg

How can it be started? Is some el se interested???


----------



## milkman6453

if it were conductive it definitely would not be working....... Unless its not actually sitting on the bag which it looks to be.


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zonengorg*
> 
> How can it be started? Is some el se interested???


I was going to make something, but I'm too lazy at the moment. My idea was to have some ghetto looking seal of approval that said "ghetto approved" and that could then go into your signature.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> Doesn't toilet paper break apart more easily than say paper towels etc.? I think you're asking for trouble with that unless it's there to clean yourself when something goes wrong


Its great for those minor leaks and one could easily spot marks of water on the paper too







but yhe i have a backup towel at hand if something major should occure
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zonengorg*
> 
> How can it be started? Is some el se interested???


Its pre psu stage but i power it up with jumping my pwr_on on the mb with a screwdriver head









Edit: nvm misunderstood you


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkman6453*
> 
> if it were conductive it definitely would not be working....... Unless its not actually sitting on the bag which it looks to be.


It is slightly conductive. Also, mobo's have an amazing ability to ignore grounding. One guy was having problems with his his bluesreening, well he wasn't using any standoffs...


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zonengorg*
> 
> Hi guys, this could sound extrange but, is there a Ghetto Mod Offical Club??


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> There needs to be


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zonengorg*
> 
> How can it be started? Is some el se interested???


It wouldn't be really ghetto if it was organized









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> It is _slightly_ conductive. Also, mobo's have an amazing ability to ignore grounding. One guy was having problems with his his bluesreening, well *he wasn't using any standoffs...*


Ghetto approved


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> One guy was having problems with his his bluesreening, well he wasn't using any standoffs...


You're joking? was it at least a powder coated case?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zonengorg*
> 
> How can it be started? Is some el se interested???
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to make something, but I'm too lazy at the moment. My idea was to have some ghetto looking seal of approval that said "ghetto approved" and that could then go into your signature.
Click to expand...

Do we need to ask OCN to recognize it or anything?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> Doesn't toilet paper break apart more easily than say paper towels etc.? I think you're asking for trouble with that unless it's there to clean yourself when something goes wrong


more importantly... is that 2 GPU + 1 CPU in parallel.... ?

even with dual D5s it doesn't feel like a good idea to me.... path of least resistant you know; you might be depriving the CPU


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> Doesn't toilet paper break apart more easily than say paper towels etc.? I think you're asking for trouble with that unless it's there to clean yourself when something goes wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more importantly... is that 2 GPU + 1 CPU in parallel.... ?
> 
> even with dual D5s it doesn't feel like a good idea to me.... path of least resistant you know; you might be depriving the CPU
Click to expand...

Water isnt electricity you know







as long resistance is somewhat the same across the block the temps are sweet, 60 degrees on the cpu @4,5 ghz and 55 on gpus


----------



## TLHarrell

Fluids and electricity both flow in a similar manner. It is quite true that if you have two blocks on one side, and a single block on the other of a parallel circuit, you will see the majority of the flow go to the side with the lower resistance to the flow. You are splitting the available current in each case. Now, if you place your pumps on each leg, just before the blocks, there would be zero issue at all because each pump will push to one side of the circuit.


----------



## RnRollie

my concern is that all modern CPU blocks need some pressure , what with the impingment plates et all... by having the CPU block as the "last" after the two parallel GPUs flow/pressure might be on the low side for optimal performance of the CPU block. Then again, with two D5 (in series) lack of pressure/flow might not be an issue








only one way to know... install an flowmeter on the OUT of the CPU block


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> It is _slightly_ conductive. Also, mobo's have an amazing ability to ignore grounding. One guy was having problems with his his bluesreening, well he wasn't using any standoffs...


yep. the way an anti static bag works is it constructs a faraday cage around the stuff inside a bag. look up a faraday cage sometime, and you'll see why the bag has to be conductive. I helped a guy out who was trying to bitcoin mine with quad 7950s on an asrock mb. it was built on a wooden bench. he was having intermittent blue screens and crashes. He thought it was the riser he was using for the 7950s. I took one look at the bench and saw he had the anti-static bag under the motherboard. We pulled it out, problem solved.

Its a n00b mistake, but one i'm not ashamed to say I've made way in the past as well. (of course i was 16, and it was my father who pointed out that though the bag was called "anti-static" it was still conductive)


----------



## Zonengorg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> I was going to make something, but I'm too lazy at the moment. My idea was to have some ghetto looking seal of approval that said "ghetto approved" and that could then go into your signature.











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Its great for those minor leaks and one could easily spot marks of water on the paper too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but yhe i have a backup towel at hand if something major should occure
> Its pre psu stage but i power it up with jumping my pwr_on on the mb with a screwdriver head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: nvm misunderstood you











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> It wouldn't be really ghetto if it was organized
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto approved










Really???
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> You're joking? was it at least a powder coated case?
> Do we need to ask OCN to recognize it or anything?


Do not know, I was just asking. I guess it will depend only if people want to show off their Ghetto







and show pride in their signature


----------



## baconybacon

This thread needs more ghetto.

I had everything to build my kids a computer but the case so this did the trick for a few months. Just today moved it into an only slightly better case


----------



## tompsonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconybacon*
> 
> This thread needs more ghetto.
> 
> I had everything to build my kids a computer but the case so this did the trick for a few months. Just today moved it into an only slightly better case


Dear god. LOL.


----------



## simsim44

LOL I love it , slightly better case? whatca do get a new box? JK. that is a true poor mans solution for a case. Years ago I bought a new tool box (a big one) and the kids used the box (cardboard) for weeks as a play house. cut a door in it and windows. I drew pics of Big Bird and others on the walls. You could do so much with that.


----------



## Cavi Mike

Epic ghetto right there. I think you just won the thread. I can't believe the static from the cardboard didn't fry every component on that thing.


----------



## SirRobinII

Going to post later some of my fail waterloop and ducttape-management v2.0


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconybacon*
> 
> This thread needs more ghetto.
> 
> I had everything to build my kids a computer but the case so this did the trick for a few months. Just today moved it into an only slightly better case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Cardboard!


Leave it like that. Everybody knows kids love boxes!


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Leave it like that. Everybody knows kids love boxes!


This reminds me of what one of my friends said about my FT02. He owns a level 10 GT with a whole bunch of LEDs and called my FT02 "The SilverStone boring box." He also claimed that his level 10 GT was better and cools better, lol.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Well duh. The LEDs make his run 20% faster. You can duct tape some LEDs onto yours, but they'll only give you a 10% boost, tops.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> This reminds me of what one of my friends said about my FT02. He owns a level 10 GT with a whole bunch of LEDs and called my FT02 "The SilverStone boring box." *He also claimed that his level 10 GT was better and cools better*, lol.


MOAR LIGHTS = MOAR CORZ = MOAR POWARZ!

didn't you know that?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Srsly. Cores times jiggahertz equal CPU power. Look at an i7 4960X. That's Intel's high-end offering. It has six cores and 3.6 jiggahertz. Multiply that and you get 21.6 core-jiggahertz. Now look at AMD's competitor, the FX-9590. It has eight cores and five jiggahertz. That's *40* core-jiggahertz, nearly twice as powerful as Intel.


----------



## SirRobinII

Guess this topic is OCD free


----------



## blooder11181

celeron m 350 rules


----------



## theKab

Got my parts installed in a cardboard box as well for easy movement around the house during the holidays:



My brother is taking over the room where it is atm so I needed an easy way to get it out of the way. Temps are actually very good as well with the positive pressure from both 120mm fans


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Srsly. Cores times jiggahertz equal CPU power. Look at an i7 4960X. That's Intel's high-end offering. It has six cores and 3.6 jiggahertz. Multiply that and you get 21.6 core-jiggahertz. Now look at AMD's competitor, the FX-9590. It has eight cores and five jiggahertz. That's *40* core-jiggahertz, nearly twice as powerful as Intel.


I challenge you to find an intel rig that can take down my amd multicore machine for the same costs.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> I challenge you to find an intel rig that can take down my amd multicore machine for the same costs.


I can and I will, my L5639(6 core) @ 3.6GHz takes down a 4.5GHz FX8350 in 3DMark06 at least

As for the cost I only spent 60$ or thereabout


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I can and I will, my L5639(6 core) @ 3.6GHz takes down a 4.5GHz FX8350 in 3DMark06 at least
> 
> As for the cost I only spent 60$ or thereabout


Yes, but the 64 core render tank I was referring too...

(The joke is where multiple cores actually matters, intel gets wrecked for price performance, people are just to lazy to build the machines to do it)


----------



## brandon88tube

Yeah, Intel might be pricey, but when you talk about motherboards, I would rather go with Intel based ones. Have you seen the reviews on more than half the AMD boards? They catch fire, DOA, a bunch of other issues. I'm not saying Intel doesn't have it's issues either, but since Intel is more popular, they have more motherboards and better quality.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Yeah, I mean, I'd much rather pay $200 for an AMD octacore that, thanks to the modular design, can utilize ~7 threads effectively than a $300 i7 that, thanks to hyperthreading, can utilize 5-6 threads effectively depending on optimization. For gaming, I'll take an unlocked i5 for performance or an A10 for price (BTW, is that being implemented in pre-Kaveri chips?). AMD isn't there just yet, but they're working on it.

If you're dropping the big bucks then a decapentacore (15) Xeon would beat an eight module Opteron, and for enterprise operations, price doesn't matter nearly as much as for consumers. Those $6000 GPUs look a lot cheaper when you're paying your engineers/scientists/graphic designers six figures annually, and a $4000 CPU is much cheaper than the $100k+ you spent on drives alone for your petabyte server farm.

EDIT: According to CPU-world, the highest of the high-end Core2Quads launched for $530 and the Phenom II x6 for only $265, or exactly half. It's the same thing today, with Intel being more expensive yet with fewer cores. Seriously, look at the FX-6000s' closest competitors. Hexacore AMD vs. dualcore Intel i3.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> Yeah, Intel might be pricey, but when you talk about motherboards, I would rather go with Intel based ones. Have you seen the reviews on more than half the AMD boards? They catch fire, DOA, a bunch of other issues. I'm not saying Intel doesn't have it's issues either, but since Intel is more popular, they have more motherboards and better quality.


But we all know MSI sucks. Asus and Gigabyte I don't think ever have this issue.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Yes, but the 64 core render tank I was referring too...
> 
> (The joke is where multiple cores actually matters, intel gets wrecked for price performance, people are just to lazy to build the machines to do it)


I missed that entirely but I do agree that Intel gets completely wrecked
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> But we all know MSI sucks. Asus and Gigabyte I don't think ever have this issue.


And i've only heard of ASUS Intel boards catching fire and ASUS denying RMAs
Gigabyte doesn't have reliability problems but they do have BIOS problems LOL

MSI always had problems with Intel or AMD motherboards so it's business as usual


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> As a big FAN of delta FANS (pun intended) i don't care much for noise either. Just check out my fans on full power! 66.7dBa!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. Those are very well built heatsinks


you want loud them check out enterprise switches on boot up


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> ...And i've only heard of ASUS Intel boards catching fire and ASUS denying RMAs...


This from the BBB about ASUS:

_We have identified a pattern of complaints concerning service issues. Complaints processed by BBB claim that 1) products sent to the company for repairs are still not working properly when returned to the consumer.On June 29, 2012 ASUS responded to the issue by stating: We continuously enhance our repair service levels across the board, but in specific response to the repair quality concerns addressed in this letter we have strengthened core processes which may have been at the root of the matter and ASUS valued customers, with non-component systems products will benefit from the enhanced RMA process and instructions.BBB again reviewed this company's file for complaints. As of January 14, 2013 the issue of products sent to the company for repairs still not working properly when returned to the consumer still remains._ - See more at: http://www.bbb.org/greater-san-francisco/business-reviews/computers-wholesale-and-manufacturers/asus-computer-international-in-fremont-ca-16870#sthash.z6OTCcNV.dpuf


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> you want loud them check out enterprise switches on boot up


Those aren't very loud (Turning on a Cisco 2811) ... Check out the Dell R720 ...


----------



## SirRobinII




----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I missed that entirely but I do agree that Intel gets completely wrecked
> And i've only heard of ASUS Intel boards catching fire and ASUS denying RMAs
> Gigabyte doesn't have reliability problems but they do have BIOS problems LOL
> 
> MSI always had problems with Intel or AMD motherboards so it's business as usual


Aint that the truth. MSI's gpus are the only good thing.

The only intel boards I've had, asus and asrock, both died. I've heard of asus being arse's about RMA's but never a board catching fire.


----------



## NvNw

When i was installing my WC loop, i end up having to "reposition" the harddrives main cage since the rads didnt allow to keep it like it came. So i take it out, flip it to the side and zip tie it to the top. And... it end up being better that i espected, since its hanging it don't make much noise and the cables are on the "back" of the cage, great for hiding the cables.










Picture:


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Aint that the truth. MSI's gpus are the only good thing.
> 
> The only intel boards I've had, asus and asrock, both died. I've heard of asus being arse's about RMA's but never a board catching fire.


MSI Twin Frozr III = awesome. ASRock seems to be hit or miss. I've had decent to good luck with my Extreme4; I'm 4.6GHz stable and have only touched the multiplier. As far as quality on Red Team at least, ASUS and Gigabyte seem to be the best options, though the former may just be because of the CHV and Sabertooth.


----------



## racecar56

Kludges...I like kludges.

Here's one of my old builds.


Best air ducting ever.


Best HDD cooling ever. (Note the fan on top of the HDD.)


Best video card cooling ever.


Best video card cooling ever, Rev. II.


Best video card cooling ever, once again. (Bonus points for who knows what card this is!)


4-pin CPU power connector too short to go across video card? No problem!



*MEGA DATA STORAGE.* (Yes, I know one of them isn't plugged in.







)


The final contender: a hard drive with a fan next to it, _being propped up by fans._


----------



## GhettoFied

The 'rig has been updated a bit! I got the monitor (LG flatron w2361v) (23in 1080p) for 50$ from a friend of mine, had a broken tilt and was filthy. Had to dissemble the whole thing to get the case by itself, removed broken stand/tilt axle, replaced with the stand off my previous monitor. I had to cut out the whole section of the back that the old stand mounted to and drilled holes to bolt on the other one. Also, got a Zalman 500-HP power supply for 40$ on amazon (originally 130), it's got fully modular cables and is heatpipe cooled







! Getting a XFX 270x for Xmas, that's why I needed the extra juice.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> MSI Twin Frozr III = awesome. ASRock seems to be hit or miss. I've had decent to good luck with my Extreme4; I'm 4.6GHz stable and have only touched the multiplier. As far as quality on Red Team at least, ASUS and Gigabyte seem to be the best options, though the former may just be because of the CHV and Sabertooth.


My asrock mobo is the shiz. For the price, it cannot be beat. Overclocks very well, loads of features, and cheap. It's a FM2 A75 Pro-4 M.


----------



## Roaches

Been on 4.4 ghz OC @ 1.230 Vcore for about 8+ months now with my Z77 Extreme 4, couldn't be more happier right now...I went as far up to 4.6ghz for a day on planetside 2. Then I realized 4.4ghz was good enough for 24/7 OC







I got an Z77 OC Formula sitting right next to me, too lazy and busy to switch boards though.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Aint that the truth. MSI's gpus are the only good thing.
> 
> The only intel boards I've had, asus and asrock, both died. I've heard of asus being arse's about RMA's but never a board catching fire.


The thread I read some time ago about their arse's from RMA had his small VRM under the the CPU socket catch fire


----------



## GhettoFied

Felt kind of bad for not posting any ghetto in last post, so here is the psu that got replaced. Its a no name "550" watt, with only 2 sata power cables and not a single pcie power cable. The top plate was swapped with a thermaltake one to mount the 120mm fan, which, yes, is powered by plugging it into the motherboard's case fan header. I took out both fans that it shipped with since they were garbage and made it so it sucks in air from the top, and pushes it in an s shape towards the back where I ripped apart the previous ventilation. It really does run cooler this way than with the stock setup.


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Felt kind of bad for not posting any ghetto in last post, so here is the psu that got replaced. Its a no name "550" watt, with only 2 sata power cables and not a single pcie power cable. The top plate was swapped with a thermaltake one to mount the 120mm fan, which, yes, is powered by plugging it into the motherboard's case fan header. I took out both fans that it shipped with since they were garbage and made it so it sucks in air from the top, and pushes it in an s shape towards the back where I ripped apart the previous ventilation. It really does run cooler this way than with the stock setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip.


That is quite an impressively ghetto PSU!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racecar56*
> 
> That is quite an impressively ghetto PSU!


Thanks! It has parts from pretty much 5 different things, has caused many headaches, and has cut my hands a few times.


----------



## ccRicers

One of the GPU fans decided to completely die out on me, and with the other one spinning only half of the time, I couldn't wait any longer to receive all my water cooling parts so I took to doing a quick fix. I removed part of the shroud- which is a pain in the butt to do- and tied a 90 mm fan blowing in on the right, and a 80mm Cooler Master to the side of the heatsink closer to the back. Thanks XFX


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Thanks! It has parts from pretty much 5 different things, has caused many headaches, and has cut my hands a few times.


No problem. Also, that painful description kinda sounds like it's about my IBM 486.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> One of the GPU fans decided to completely die out on me, and with the other one spinning only half of the time, I couldn't wait any longer to receive all my water cooling parts so I took to doing a quick fix. I removed part of the shroud- which is a pain in the butt to do- and tied a 90 mm fan blowing in on the right, and a 80mm Cooler Master to the side of the heatsink closer to the back. Thanks XFX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip.


Hahaha, reminds me of all the times I'd strap fans onto video cards (like one of the pictures I posted earlier).


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Felt kind of bad for not posting any ghetto in last post, so here is the psu that got replaced. Its a no name "550" watt, with only 2 sata power cables and not a single pcie power cable. The top plate was swapped with a thermaltake one to mount the 120mm fan, which, yes, is powered by plugging it into the motherboard's case fan header. I took out both fans that it shipped with since they were garbage and made it so it sucks in air from the top, and pushes it in an s shape towards the back where I ripped apart the previous ventilation. It really does run cooler this way than with the stock setup.


This is a fire hazard waiting to happen...


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> This is a fire hazard waiting to happen...


At least it keeps things exciting.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racecar56*
> 
> No problem. Also, that painful description kinda sounds like it's about my IBM 486.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hahaha, reminds me of all the times I'd strap fans onto video cards (like one of the pictures I posted earlier).


Did I mention I'm mining scrypt coins off this thing? Well, I'm mining scrypt coins off this thing!


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Did I mention I'm mining scrypt coins off this thing? Well, I'm mining scrypt coins off this thing!


Well done. Now, if I could just get my *Radeon 9800 Pro* (yep!) from that post I posted earlier working properly (it had a component fall off of it, sadly), then I could do the same and get...uh...a super-duper whopping amount of those, as in a super-duper 2003 load of them.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racecar56*
> 
> Well done. Now, if I could just get my *Radeon 9800 Pro* (yep!) from that post I posted earlier working properly (it had a component fall off of it, sadly), then I could do the same and get...uh...a super-duper whopping amount of those, as in a super-duper 2003 load of them.


Like this amount?


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Like this amount?


Aww yeaaaaaaaaaaah!







xD
Think the Sempron 3100+ processor would bottleneck it?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racecar56*
> 
> Aww yeaaaaaaaaaaah!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> xD
> Think the Sempron 3100+ processor would bottleneck it?


Just a tiny bit


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Just a tiny bit


Maybe it'd help if I overclocked it to 3 GHz...I could get so much coin with that!









...


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racecar56*
> 
> At least it keeps things exciting.


Exactly! Well, at least it is retired... For now. Until I find some other use for it (give me a few days)


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Exactly! Well, at least it is retired... For now. Until I find some other use for it (give me a few days)


Here goes nothing.


----------



## Roxycon

My backup 750w psu is powering two ccfl lights behind my monitors









And you thought you had a overkill wattage


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> My backup 750w psu is powering two ccfl lights behind my monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you thought you had a overkill wattage


That's pretty cool!


----------



## Roxycon

Pretty ghetto on that area of the desk but it makes the monitors easier on the eye, guess i should post some pics of that too although its not inside a case


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Pretty ghetto on that area of the desk but it makes the monitors easier on the eye, guess i should post some pics of that too although its not inside a case


That's a neat idea, something like that would be cool to have on my own desk. You can post pictures if you don't mind, I'd like to see.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racecar56*
> 
> That's a neat idea, something like that would be cool to have on my own desk. You can post pictures if you don't mind, I'd like to see.


Ill post some when the other people in the house is awake







kinda late here in norway atm


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Ill post some when the other people in the house is awake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda late here in norway atm


Understood, I'll keep posted.


----------



## Roxycon

here is some more ghetto











just screwed into the desk



jumped to start



i have a on of switch incorporated onto the desk top



mounted up with zip ties

and the result


----------



## racecar56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> here is some more ghetto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just screwed into the desk
> 
> 
> 
> jumped to start
> 
> 
> 
> i have a on of switch incorporated onto the desk top
> 
> 
> 
> mounted up with zip ties
> 
> and the result


Nice!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I'm not as hardcore ghetto as you guys. My side panel was rattling, so I unscrewed it, cut out four small squares from a foam sheet, and glued them in the corners. No more rattling! The other side panel is being pushed out by the cables undermeath enough that it won't budge. There's nowhere for it to go.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> here is some more ghetto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just screwed into the desk
> 
> 
> 
> jumped to start
> 
> 
> 
> i have a on of switch incorporated onto the desk top
> 
> 
> 
> mounted up with zip ties
> 
> and the result


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> here is some more ghetto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just screwed into the desk
> 
> 
> 
> jumped to start
> 
> 
> 
> i have a on of switch incorporated onto the desk top
> 
> 
> mounted up with zip ties
> 
> and the result


Very nice! I want to do some lighting like that if I get a new desk, maybe do some cyan colored lights


----------



## nvidiaftw12

You didn't really need the whole psu, just a 12 volt wall wart works fine. I used them for computer fans and stuff all the time.


----------



## Roxycon

@GhettoFied you should do it







for me at least it helps ALOT for those 8++ hours sessions with programming









@nvidiaftw12 yh its the reason why i have the switch on top of the deskbut i dont wanna use more money on my setup before i relocate the stuff i have


----------



## theseopenfields

The LEDs on my switch were starting to annoy me at night, so I decided to move it into my NAS.

I cut the cord from the wall wart and crimped a 3-pin header to it, which is then connected to a molex adapter.



Here it is in the NAS, which is fairly ghetto in its own right. It fits perfectly between the drive cage and the 3.5" bay with a bit of tape to keep it in place. No more annoying lights!


----------



## Awk34

In this first one you will notice a small fan fastened to the motherboard chipset using some string wrapped around the heatsink.

And here is a fan secured to two open 5.25" bays using rubber bands.

Back from when I was a wee little mate.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awk34*
> 
> In this first one you will notice a small fan fastened to the motherboard chipset using some string wrapped around the heatsink.
> 
> And here is a fan secured to two open 5.25" bays using rubber bands.
> 
> Back from when I was a wee little mate.


#notveryghetto


----------



## Mystriss

I bet the rubber bands make for good vibration damping









And I'd disagree, with the front open like that and the multi colored face, it's pretty ghetto hahaha


----------



## TLHarrell

Most ghetto rig I've ever seen was from this lady at my church. Older lady, her husband had passed away, and all his stuff was on this computer. Well, it kept locking up and she couldn't do anything with it. I told her I'd certainly be willing to take a look at it.

I get this thing home, open the side of the case, and there's this big piece of aluminum L-channel screwed across the left side of the case front to back. To that is attached another piece of aluminum L-channel pointed at the motherboard. Takes me a few minutes of digging in the wire management nightmare to realize the purpose of the L-channel pieces.

This motherboard had originally been fitted with the wire hoops to hold the heatsink onto the north bridge. Due to one thing or another, one of the hoops had pulled out, causing the heatsink to fall off, and shortly thereafter the motherboard would lock up. Her husband had rigged it to hold down that loose side of the heatsink clip.

Well, years later the opposite hoop had pulled out, causing the heatsink to literally fly off the board and embed itself in the dark recesses of the case where only dust bunnies usually reside.

Unfortunately, I had to un-ghetto it. I desoldered and redrilled the holes in the motherboard and bent up some replacement hoops from thicker brass rod. These were placed through the holes, bent over and clipped at the pad edge (mil-spec style) and resoldered. They won't ever pull out.


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theseopenfields*
> 
> The LEDs on my switch were starting to annoy me at night, so I decided to move it into my NAS.
> 
> I cut the cord from the wall wart and crimped a 3-pin header to it, which is then connected to a molex adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is in the NAS, which is fairly ghetto in its own right. It fits perfectly between the drive cage and the 3.5" bay with a bit of tape to keep it in place. No more annoying lights!


Using tape over the lights of the switch is faster and more practical.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Using tape over the lights of the switch is faster and more practical.


A Sharpie felt pen also works well most of the time to dim an excessively bright LED.


----------



## pcfoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I bet the rubber bands make for good vibration damping


Only if the fan is suspended by them...this one is resting on the 5.25 drive


----------



## Mystriss

mmhmm I was just musing aloud there; my husband has a fan in his system that vibrates quite loudly, I may have to 'fix' it.


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> mmhmm I was just musing aloud there; my husband has a fan in his system that vibrates quite loudly, I may have to 'fix' it.


Thats what she said.. Oh wait, nvm


----------



## Dorkseid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> mmhmm I was just musing aloud there; my husband has a fan in his system that vibrates quite loudly, I may have to 'fix' it.


You're not suggesting......SABOTAGE?!
















Fixing it depends on what's causing the noise, and where, might even be the fan itself.


----------



## Mystriss

*Feigns innocence* I would never sabota- there was just that one time I really, really wanted, erm... *clears throat softly*

I've got an extra Corsair fan but it wouldn't fit into the stupid molded front bezel of his horrible HP case. Rubber bands 'might' just do the trick.


----------



## Gereti

I'm not sure is this enought ghetto, but this is my old computer case, couple years old




http://imgur.com/a

Enjoy


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> I'm not sure is this enought ghetto, but this is my old computer case, couple years old
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a
> 
> Enjoy


That looks awesome! never seen corrugated metal used like that before. Very nice! Can you post more pics?
Edit: oh lol sorry I didnt see there were more in the link


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That looks awesome! never seen corrugated metal used like that before. Very nice! Can you post more pics?
> Edit: oh lol sorry I didnt see there were more in the link


Thanks









I made that, couple years ago on school, and it was interesting project i would say


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

That's expanded metal, not corrugated.


----------



## davcc22

my fist gpu 7300gs ran scorthong ohot old amd fan fixed that


----------



## mr soft

I had to hack up this lovely new cooler to fit the ram in, also squashed it down about 5mm to fit in the case.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

GUYS im modding my XB to fit dual 3.5 hdds and well i found a cordless drill what some one threw away because the battery was no good. i rigged up my LOGITECH X540 power supply took out the transformer diodes and wa la ... 18VDC lol the drill was working once again .. hehe so .... this must be getto..?


----------



## Cavi Mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> GUYS im modding my XB to fit dual 3.5 hdds and well i found a cordless drill what some one threw away because the battery was no good. i rigged up my LOGITECH X540 power supply took out the transformer diodes and wa la ... 18VDC lol the drill was working once again .. hehe so .... this must be getto..?


Well this is technically the case-modding forum so you should prolly drill some holes in your case with it to make it official.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavi Mike*
> 
> Well this is technically the case-modding forum so you should prolly drill some holes in your case with it to make it official.


I did the picts are on the go pro feeling lazy to retrieve the sd card..


----------



## Menty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Son of Man*
> 
> Once it hit rock bottom, the computer (Huey) ran reliably. Prior to that, the PSU had fried my two 400 GB hard drives within a span of two weeks. One of the times, I even saw a blue spark and a little puff of smoke. Fortunately, a really cool guy at work, who had a side business building, repairing, and blogging about computers, more or less offered me a free one, which I eventually accepted. It was AM3 based system that I named Dolemite. I upgrade him whenever I have a few extra bucks.
> 
> This is Dolemite on his 2nd birthday. I got him a new 4 TB hard drive (because I can't afford Western Digital).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's freaking adorable, lol.


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> The 'rig has been updated a bit! I got the monitor (LG flatron w2361v) (23in 1080p) for 50$ from a friend of mine, had a broken tilt and was filthy. Had to dissemble the whole thing to get the case by itself, removed broken stand/tilt axle, replaced with the stand off my previous monitor. I had to cut out the whole section of the back that the old stand mounted to and drilled holes to bolt on the other one. Also, got a Zalman 500-HP power supply for 40$ on amazon (originally 130), it's got fully modular cables and is heatpipe cooled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Getting a XFX 270x for Xmas, that's why I needed the extra juice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Uh um uh hey there buddy.. your desktop background. What is it? Not a RA23/TA22 Celica ... is it? If it is - you're my new best friend. If not - why would you do this to me..


----------



## zemco999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I did the picts are on the go pro feeling lazy to retrieve the sd card..


Which gopro do you own?


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr soft*
> 
> I had to hack up this lovely new cooler to fit the ram in, also squashed it down about 5mm to fit in the case.


Love the look of thhat







You should paint the ram heatsinks to match the cpucooler aswell


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Uh um uh hey there buddy.. your desktop background. What is it? Not a RA23/TA22 Celica ... is it? If it is - you're my new best friend. If not - why would you do this to me..


Not sure of the exact model, but it is a '71. I'm more of a bmw guy, I drive a '91 E34 535i with a 5 speed. This car really peaked my interest though, stands out from all the other classic Japanese sports cars. Here is where I got the wall from http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/11/neo-classic-turbo-swapped-71-celica/#chapter-finding-the-balance


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Not sure of the exact model, but it is a '71. I'm more of a bmw guy, I drive a '91 E34 535i with a 5 speed. This car really peaked my interest though, stands out from all the other classic Japanese sports cars. Here is where I got the wall from http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/11/neo-classic-turbo-swapped-71-celica/#chapter-finding-the-balance


I knew it. I could smell a Toyota from a mile away. I've only owned toyotas up until recently (13 of the bastards lol). Ranging from Toyota Hilux Surf 4x4, Toyota hilux ute, Toyota Celica 1994, Toyota chaser 1998 etc. All of which were manual also - can't get an auto - they're boring as all hell.

You're my new best friend.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> I knew it. I could smell a Toyota from a mile away. I've only owned toyotas up until recently (13 of the bastards lol). Ranging from Toyota Hilux Surf 4x4, Toyota hilux ute, Toyota Celica 1994, Toyota chaser 1998 etc. All of which were manual also - can't get an auto - they're boring as all hell.
> 
> You're my new best friend.


Dude, those are some sweet, legendary cars you've had. I love chasers, they have so much jdm class. Glad to meet another enthusiast here on OCN! One who drives a stick even!


----------



## zemco999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> I knew it. I could smell a Toyota from a mile away. I've only owned toyotas up until recently (13 of the bastards lol). Ranging from Toyota Hilux Surf 4x4, Toyota hilux ute, Toyota Celica 1994, Toyota chaser 1998 etc. All of which were manual also - can't get an auto - they're boring as all hell.
> 
> You're my new best friend.


Isn't the hilux the truck that was dropped on its top and still could be driven on top gear?


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Dude, those are some sweet, legendary cars you've had. I love chasers, they have so much jdm class. Glad to meet another enthusiast here on OCN! One who drives a stick even!


Haha, I think my old 1981 KE70 wagon was my favourite of them all. Being 19 I don't really have THAT much money to completely modify them but they looked pretty good and all went bloody well. As all Toyotas do..












Heh, getting a bit off topic now hahaha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zemco999*
> 
> Isn't the hilux the truck that was dropped on its top and still could be driven on top gear?


Sure was - was a bloody awesome car - definitely had some good times in it


----------



## esqueue

Oh wow, my rig info is below.
Pretty much a 3770k 3.5 mhz overclocked to 4.5 mhz with an AMD R9 290x video card. Here are the pics.

The waterblock is kinda heavy so....I supported it with some dental floss.



I am using a 77 bonneville heater core as the radiator. I had it running on 2 loud 120mm fans to cool my xbox 360. I also used an electronic junction box and a fountain pump for the pump and reservoir. That setup can be found in a thread that I posted here a few years ago. I decided to buy a pump and they threw in a broken acrylic reservoir for free. I crazy glued it and taped it which sealed it well.

I decided to up grade the fans to 2 140mm Noctua NF-a14 pwm fans. I used some hot glue to seal any openings.



As bad as it looks, both the cpu and gpu run cool even when ambient temps are high.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

that card board box is the bomb!!


----------



## GhettoFied

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Haha, I think my old 1981 KE70 wagon was my favourite of them all. Being 19 I don't really have THAT much money to completely modify them but they looked pretty good and all went bloody well. As all Toyotas do..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heh, getting a bit off topic now hahaha
> Sure was - was a bloody awesome car - definitely had some good times in it


HNNNGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> Oh wow, my rig info is below.
> Pretty much a 3770k 3.5 mhz overclocked to 4.5 mhz with an AMD R9 290x video card. Here are the pics.
> 
> The waterblock is kinda heavy so....I supported it with some dental floss.
> 
> 
> 
> I am using a 77 bonneville heater core as the radiator. I had it running on 2 loud 120mm fans to cool my xbox 360. I also used an electronic junction box and a fountain pump for the pump and reservoir. That setup can be found in a thread that I posted here a few years ago. I decided to buy a pump and they threw in a broken acrylic reservoir for free. I crazy glued it and taped it which sealed it well.
> 
> I decided to up grade the fans to 2 140mm Noctua NF-a14 pwm fans. I used some hot glue to seal any openings.
> 
> 
> 
> As bad as it looks, both the cpu and gpu run cool even when ambient temps are high.


That is one killer setup. Have you considered doing a push pull setup?


----------



## OdinValk

here is my ghetto rig lol... got tired of the all black case.. did some custom paint work

http://s1317.photobucket.com/user/O...355927276410_690078183_n_zps6be8b32d.jpg.html


----------



## ginger_nuts

This was my temporary setup for about 9 months.


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That is one killer setup. Have you considered doing a push pull setup?


Thanks, I've thought about it but it works great as it is. I had a push setup when I had the 2 120mm fans installed but dust built up on the inside and I had to destroy the shroud to clean it. After upgrading to the 2 140mm fans I changed it to a pull setup. Still works great but MUCH quieter. One of the 120mm fans that I had installed was a Delta WFB1212M which are kinda loud.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> Thanks, I've thought about it but it works great as it is. I had a push setup when I had the 2 120mm fans installed but dust built up on the inside and I had to destroy the shroud to clean it. After upgrading to the 2 140mm fans I changed it to a pull setup. Still works great but MUCH quieter. One of the 120mm fans that I had installed was a Delta WFB1212M which are kinda loud.


Outperforms a Corsair SP120 though


----------



## GhettoFied

Hey guys, made some changes to speaker setup. Went to goodwill the other day, and my jaw dropped when I saw this receiver, its a harmon/kardon AVR 300. Ran optical to it, speaker clarity is now much better than using sub amp on my speakers. Also, learned how to properly setup a sub so I put in my JBL 10in, who's power supply died awhile ago. So now I have the sub powered by the zombie psu/car amp setup. The sound is great now, I can set my speakers to focus on only mids/highs now and leave the dirty work to the sub.

Edit: also forgot to say that I have setup the receiver to also turn on the sub when powered on, so no more cherry switch to turn it on, just one button press.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I think this is another appropriate thread. I decided to ditch the 1TB HDD in my laptop upon realizing I could fit almost everything on a 120GB SSD. Black Friday came around, and 240GB Seagate 600s dropped to $130. Naturally, I got one. That's in my rig, which meant I had a spare 250GB Samsung 840. I imaged my laptop's drive to that and I got an additional 130GB out of it. I copied all of the media over to the SSD. Piece of cake. The only real issue was more time-consuming than anything: getting all the libraries to point back to the user folders. No big deal. I stuck the HDD in my desktop, so now I have three drives in the only two 3.5" bays that cannot be removed. Convenient, right?

But that left me with an unused SSD and an empty ODD caddy. What to do? Why, a hot-swap bay of course, or as close as you can get in a laptop. The only problem was that there's about 10mm of height for drives but SSDs are 7mm. Since I want it to hot-swap, I don't want it to flop around. Solution: foam.

Oh, and pro-tip: if you keep all your music in one big library and move that library to another location, open it up in a text-editor, hit whatever command allows you to find and replace text (Ctrl+H in Notepad++), and replace the necessary part(s) of the file location by using the "replace all" option.

ANYWAY, sorry for the tangents, here are pictures:





I tried to modify a Nerf missile gun to increase airflow. The missiles are glued together in two parts and several tore in half. Oops. I ripped off a couple fins from one and Gorilla glued them in place. There was tape over the SATA connector on the SSD while it was curing, thank you very much. Then I took about ten strips of electrical tape and layered them on one end of the caddy since it was still rattling. I can shake my laptop like you don't want to shake a baby and there is minimal if any rattling. I call it a success.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I think this is another appropriate thread. I decided to ditch the 1TB HDD in my laptop upon realizing I could fit almost everything on a 120GB SSD. Black Friday came around, and 240GB Seagate 600s dropped to $130. Naturally, I got one. That's in my rig, which meant I had a spare 250GB Samsung 840. I imaged my laptop's drive to that and I got an additional 130GB out of it. I copied all of the media over to the SSD. Piece of cake. The only real issue was more time-consuming than anything: getting all the libraries to point back to the user folders. No big deal. I stuck the HDD in my desktop, so now I have three drives in the only two 3.5" bays that cannot be removed. Convenient, right?
> 
> But that left me with an unused SSD and an empty ODD caddy. What to do? Why, a hot-swap bay of course, or as close as you can get in a laptop. The only problem was that there's about 10mm of height for drives but SSDs are 7mm. Since I want it to hot-swap, I don't want it to flop around. Solution: foam.
> 
> Oh, and pro-tip: if you keep all your music in one big library and move that library to another location, open it up in a text-editor, hit whatever command allows you to find and replace text (Ctrl+H in Notepad++), and replace the necessary part(s) of the file location by using the "replace all" option.
> 
> ANYWAY, sorry for the tangents, here are pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to modify a Nerf missile gun to increase airflow. The missiles are glued together in two parts and several tore in half. Oops. I ripped off a couple fins from one and Gorilla glued them in place. There was tape over the SATA connector on the SSD while it was curing, thank you very much. Then I took about ten strips of electrical tape and layered them on one end of the caddy since it was still rattling. I can shake my laptop like you don't want to shake a baby and there is minimal if any rattling. I call it a success.


Nice! That's a really sweet hot swap setup, plus it's an SSD? Can't get better than that. When I eventually get a laptop I definitely want to do something similar, and be able to swap between my desktop and laptop for speedy transfers.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

It isn't hot-swappable, but it's more like a big, internal, really really fast flash drive that can be used as a scratch disk. 120TB is a lot of writes. I've got a hot-swap bay for my desktop in the mail with a slim ODD slot and two USB 3.0 ports too. I've run out of USB headers and got a pass-through cable since I'm waiting for 3.1 before getting any PCIe card.


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> But that left me with an unused SSD and an empty ODD caddy. What to do? Why, a hot-swap bay of course, or as close as you can get in a laptop. The only problem was that there's about 10mm of height for drives but SSDs are 7mm. Since I want it to hot-swap, I don't want it to flop around. Solution: foam.


Do you have any trouble getting the caddy out again? I have one in my laptop but with a HDD in and I leave it in most of the time as it's a pain to keep taking out, plus I don't actually have the tools to do it right now anyway. Sometimes when I try and take it out the faceplate comes off rather than the whole thing coming out


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I get a finger or fingernail underneath the faceplate and pull. It's only held in by the slim SATA port. I've considered looking into a telescoping tube or an external lock, but I think I'll leave it as is unless I encounter problems. I can always swap the faceplate for a handle if needed.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I think this is another appropriate thread.


And another one im in







Glad my advice worked for ya.


----------



## Jack Mac

Every time I think of someone using a hot swap setup, I think of somebody going "Oh snap, the police are coming, gotta hot swap out my HD video drive!"


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Every time I think of someone using a hot swap setup, I think of somebody going "Oh snap, the police are coming, gotta hot swap out my HD video drive!"


Correct, that's why i use hotswap on my 1tb storagehdd, what include even one, very illegal and poison program,

and it's...

Origin...


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Wow! You guys really have me worried. I frequently hot swap HDDs for backups. Didn't know I had to keep the lights dimmed and the shades drawn.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Wow! You guys really have me worried. I frequently hot swap HDDs for backups. Didn't know I had to keep the lights dimmed and the shades drawn.


You have been warned


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I was running an older septre 24 inch monitor and a dell 23 inch monitor on a dual monitor stand. The dell has no vesa mount to I had rigged it. Anyway the septre was a different resolution(1920x1200). It was also pretty heavy and thick compared to modern LED tech. I decided it would be better to get another 23" 1080p monitor which I did on black Friday at Best Buy(lg 23EA63V-P). I totally did not read the specs on Nvidia Surround, because if I did I'd have read that in fact need 3 like monitors and just two would not bee sufficient.
> 
> I had to get another LG monitor but Black Friday was over, so Best Buy's price shot back up... I ordered a identical refurbished one with free shipping from Best Buy and it turned out to be just fine.
> 
> My issue was that I has a dell 23 inch Dell monitor without vesa mount(thanks Dell). Well, I've also lost the stand for the monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it really needed a taller stand anyway if it was going to be on the same plane as the other two LGs.
> 
> Also, I had been accustomed to monitoring my system stats while I game to optimize my settings(on the old septre). With just 3 monitors I would not be able to do that as they would be bonded together to operating as a single monitor. For that I bought a $60 Hanns-g 16" monitor but I wish there were better options in 16" but its not bad.
> 
> With aluminum parts I obtained fromn the Home Depot, I rigged these monitors stands and that is all there is to say other than the fact that multi-monitor gaming is really fantastic and brings it to the next level.
> 
> yes, The c-clamp holding the monitor steady to the desk is part of the finished product


Ha! Get on my level lol Jk! Nice Setup!


----------



## damocash

It was really hot here today and the onboard audio in my rig failed, forcing me to move my 7870's right next to each other so I could run a soundblaster card in my only pci slot.
One of the cards actually peaked at 102c, I was going to cut a hole in the side of my case to accommodate a 200mm fan but i broke my last steel jigsaw blade.
Here is how I solved the problem with some cable ties and an old fan left over from a haf 932 build.


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damocash*
> 
> It was really hot here today and the onboard audio in my rig failed, forcing me to move my 7870's right next to each other so I could run a soundblaster card in my only pci slot.
> One of the cards actually peaked at 102c, I was going to cut a hole in the side of my case to accommodate a 200mm fan but i broke my last steel jigsaw blade.
> Here is how I solved the problem with some cable ties and an old fan left over from a haf 932 build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You didn't tell us the after temps....


----------



## damocash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> You didn't tell us the after temps....


My apologies, the top card dropped to peaks of 89 and the bottom card to peaks of 82.
I wasn't monitoring the cpu because it's running stock clock.


----------



## selk22

Well this thread is amazing and I love perusing these posts!

Here is one of my ghetto mods recently.. 7870 with broken fan and no warranty... NO PROBLEM!


First picture ever taken by a baked potatoe!

My favorite ghetto mod of all!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## DaveLT

You probably broke it in anger ...


----------



## OdinValk

haha do you get good temps from that corsair fan?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That's probably better than stock. I'd like to slap a decent slim CPU cooler on my XFX GPU for the lulz and the temps.

...Does the motherboard still work?


----------



## Jack Mac

That poor MSI (X58?) board...


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> That poor MSI (X58?) board...


Yeah MSI Big-bang Xpower x58.. WORST POS I have ever owned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> ...Does the motherboard still work?


Did an MSI x58 xpower ever work?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> haha do you get good temps from that corsair fan?


Actually they are great! Gaming usually around 60c and mining I hit 70c.. Idle is like 30-35c


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Eh. Take some duct tape and a soldering iron to it. Just like new.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Eh. Take some duct tape and a soldering iron to it. Just like new.


Yes, duct tape, lots and lots of duct tape.


----------



## MrDucktape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Eh. Take some duct tape and a soldering iron to it. Just like new.


MrDucktape reporting for duty!


----------



## selk22

I just need to believe right?

...No its dead!

Yeah duct tape wouldn't even bring that one back guys. That picture was the halfway point!

Here I made some modern art from the heatsink and the OC genie button lol

I just hammerd the OC genie button until it was stuck into it..


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Yeah MSI Big-bang Xpower x58.. WORST POS I have ever owned.
> Did an MSI x58 xpower ever work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually they are great! Gaming usually around 60c and mining I hit 70c.. Idle is like 30-35c


Those are pretty good temps for a ghetto rigged card! Hell, good temps for any card! I have a XFX r9 270x (same card as 7870ghz) running at 1175/1500 and it peaks at about 61 in BF4.


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> I just need to believe right?
> 
> ...No its dead!
> 
> Yeah duct tape wouldn't even bring that one back guys. That picture was the halfway point!
> 
> Here I made some modern art from the heatsink and the OC genie button lol
> 
> I just hammerd the OC genie button until it was stuck into it..


I've got an msi fm2-a75ma-p33 in a mitx build I did for an htpc. Put an amd a10 in it. Just a terrible board. Doesn't let you touch the vcore...


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> I've got an msi fm2-a75ma-p33 in a mitx build I did for an htpc. Put an amd a10 in it. Just a terrible board. Doesn't let you touch the vcore...


Any P or E boards won't let you do so







Anyway, the board will probably blow up if you manage to increase vcore


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> I've got an msi fm2-a75ma-p33 in a mitx build I did for an htpc. Put an amd a10 in it. Just a terrible board. Doesn't let you touch the vcore...


i bought msi 760ga-p43 (fx) becose my last mobo asrock was going on warranty

okay, cpu autooc on and cpu overclocked 15MHZ!

i wasnt able to raise vcore, i got 6 core open from my 960T, ounly becose it worked with stock voltage'[email protected]

phenom II 545, wasnt able to unlock 4 core, becose max voltage's was 1.325 maby
third core unlocked, but i was have to use cpu downclocked to 2.6Ghz...

horrible mobo...


----------



## selk22

That mobo never managed to read over 4gb of ram for NO reason...

I rest my case about MSI mobo's with the last few post!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Those are pretty good temps for a ghetto rigged card! Hell, good temps for any card! I have a XFX r9 270x (same card as 7870ghz) running at 1175/1500 and it peaks at about 61 in BF4.


Yeah I was very happy


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I got my hot-swap bay in today. I'll actually have a chance to try out that whole swapping thing now. I just need cables for the ODD (that I spent $8.50 too much on - BLARGH) and a USB 3.0 2x Type A (or maybe B?) male to female 19-pin header to show up now. The bay itself is a neat system. The SATA connector is either a cut-down plug with just the pins or a low friction plug and there's a spring-loaded lever that presses the drive into place. $35 well spent, IMO.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ha! Get on my level lol Jk! Nice Setup!


I like it, that's crazy. I guess ATI lets you use more monitors


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I did that once, accidentally to an amplifier board. This was in "96 or "97 and I was opening a desktop speaker. They were quite powerful and wanted to see if I could use them in the car as well ... I was 16 or 17 ..

Well, I removed all the screws but didn't remove the volume, bass and treble knobs. Ended up breaking the PCB in half. I was heartbroken







.

So I started connecting (piggyback?) all the broken lines of the PCB with wires and soldering iron. In the end I was very happy that I fixed it







.

Unfortunately, I don't have those speakers anymore so can't take a picture of the work.


----------



## OdinValk

lol It is amazing the kind of macguyver stuff people can do when they break stuff and have no other choice but to try and fix it...

me personally.. growing up I would take stuff apart just to see how it worked.. and then do my best to put it back together... I guess thats why PC building was always so interesting to me..


----------



## brodieboy143

I found this gem in the tech cupboard at the university college I live in (Myself and a few others volunteer to do A/V setup for most events run by the college). Someone had gaffer taped a computer CD drive to an old power supply, Shorted the connections required to ensure it was always powered on and then salvaged an old mouse on a long wire (blue and white) so the drive tray could be opened by a switch. The 3.5mm port on the front of the drive could then be used for audio output.






Also, Spotted this fantastic use of cable ties by by work's maintenance department. Apparently the production machinery being 'modified' here was using what looked to be a standard ATX from factor 250W PSU with a single molex connector for output. This was the closest matching spare we could find.


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> Well this thread is amazing and I love perusing these posts!
> 
> Here is one of my ghetto mods recently.. 7870 with broken fan and no warranty... NO PROBLEM!


what brand is the card looks like a power color to me


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deni*
> 
> I did that once, accidentally to an amplifier board. This was in "96 or "97 and I was opening a desktop speaker. They were quite powerful and wanted to see if I could use them in the car as well ... I was 16 or 17 ..
> 
> Well, I removed all the screws but didn't remove the volume, bass and treble knobs. Ended up breaking the PCB in half. I was heartbroken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> So I started connecting (piggyback?) all the broken lines of the PCB with wires and soldering iron. In the end I was very happy that I fixed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have those speakers anymore so can't take a picture of the work.


WOW how did that Mobo break ??


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> what brand is the card looks like a power color to me


It is actually XFX


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *selk22*
> 
> It is actually XFX


Yay, another member added to the very exclusive "unfortunate XFX owners who had to ghetto mod its cooling system" club


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I swapped out the thermal paste on mine if that counts. Arctic Silver, baby! The stickers on the screws say "void if removed." Guess what? I left them there. I just punched holes in them with a screwdriver. Since it never indicated what would be voided, I think the warranty is still applicable.


----------



## selk22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Yay, another member added to the very exclusive "unfortunate XFX owners who had to ghetto mod its cooling system" club


Haha that looks very familiar....


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Yay, another member added to the very exclusive "unfortunate XFX owners who had to ghetto mod its cooling system" club


Hey! Not all XFX coolers suck bauls, my 270x stays super clilly at 1175/1500 (never peaks 55C in BF4)


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Eh. Take some duct tape and a soldering iron to it. Just like new.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> Yes, duct tape, lots and lots of duct tape.


That broken mobo pic just reminded me of what AVGN did an episode about the NES R.O.B games. He got so tired of using ROB that he sawed two controllers in half, duct-taped the ends with the cords and plugged his "ROB controller" in both ports so he could bypass the need for that robot.


----------



## Widde

I've just chewed my way through 257 pages of ghetto awesomenes







Took me 2 days to muster the strength to sit here and watch it all but my god there's some awesome stuff in here


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Widde*
> 
> I've just chewed my way through 257 pages of ghetto awesomenes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took me 2 days to muster the strength to sit here and watch it all but my god there's some awesome stuff in here


I attempted but only got to page 80 or so. You, sir, are a legend.


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> WOW how did that Mobo break ??


That mobo is not mine.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I attempted but only got to page 80 or so. You, sir, are a legend.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

This thread was only a bit over 200 pages when I first encountered it. It took me a while to wade through it, a few pages at a time. I would NOT have been able to do it in a single sitting, no matter how worthwhile it would have been.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That broken mobo pic just reminded me of what AVGN did an episode about the NES R.O.B games. He got so tired of using ROB that he sawed two controllers in half, duct-taped the ends with the cords and plugged his "ROB controller" in both ports so he could bypass the need for that robot.


YES! Another AVGN fan!!!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

I found away to cool my cable box XD lol


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I found away to cool my cable box XD lol


It would probably be better to just get another fan and cable tie that to it rather than trying to redirect air coming out of your case


----------



## OdinValk

yea considering the air coming from the back end of the case is warm air anyway... idk that it would do a whole lot to cool the box... you'd be better off building a funnel of some sort and getting a high CFM fan


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

whats comming out the back of the pc is way cooler compare to the temp that box creates...


----------



## micro5797

My Zalman headset lost the use of one of its 6 speakers. I soldered in an external wire to that one speaker and taped it to the existing cable.


----------



## NASzi

Friend of mine had a pretty decent HP PC that he bought from Best Buy for around 1,500. Not for gaming, actually we called it his PPD (personal porn device), after a few months, every single one of his Case Mounted USB's literally just fell apart, after calling HP, he was told the PCB that he needed would cost around $200. I told him that was absurd and that he could buy a whole new case for that amount, well needless to say after a little convincing, he pulled the trigger and we ended up with this...lol

http://minus.com/i/N7ymjQK00JbX

about 6 months later, I rebuilt his rig

http://minus.com/i/Y6YZ8UKQ6lmp

and here's me ghetto riggin a 240 rad on top of my old CM Storm Enforcer


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Friend of mine had a pretty decent HP PC that he bought from Best Buy for around 1,500. Not for gaming, actually we called it his PPD (personal porn device), after a few months, every single one of his Case Mounted USB's literally just fell apart, after calling HP, he was told the PCB that he needed would cost around $200. I told him that was absurd and that he could buy a whole new case for that amount, well needless to say after a little convincing, he pulled the trigger and we ended up with this...lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://minus.com/i/N7ymjQK00JbX
> 
> about 6 months later, I rebuilt his rig
> 
> http://minus.com/i/Y6YZ8UKQ6lmp
> 
> and here's me ghetto riggin a 240 rad on top of my old CM Storm Enforcer


That looks too nice to qualify









I read that the CPU block is mounted wrong as it can trap air. I have mine mounted exactly like yours and have no issues. I may try turning my case on it's side to see if there is any air trapped in there.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Friend of mine had a pretty decent HP PC that he bought from Best Buy for around 1,500. Not for gaming, actually we called it his PPD (personal porn device), after a few months, every single one of his Case Mounted USB's literally just fell apart, after calling HP, he was told the PCB that he needed would cost around $200. I told him that was absurd and that he could buy a whole new case for that amount, well needless to say after a little convincing, he pulled the trigger and we ended up with this...lol
> 
> http://minus.com/i/N7ymjQK00JbX
> 
> about 6 months later, I rebuilt his rig
> 
> http://minus.com/i/Y6YZ8UKQ6lmp
> 
> and here's me ghetto riggin a 240 rad on top of my old CM Storm Enforcer


That water cooling setup looks proper good. I see no such ghetto!


----------



## esqueue

Unfortunately it nothing to brag about, I still think THIS takes the ghetto award


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> Unfortunately it nothing to brag about, I still think THIS takes the ghetto award


I don't see why you shouldn't brag about that. The duct tape contrasts nicely with the cardboard!


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> That looks too nice to qualify
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I read that the CPU block is mounted wrong as it can trap air. I have mines mounted exactly like yours and have no issues. I may try turning my case on it's side to see if there is any air trapped in there.


I don't have that block anymore but I never noticed any issues, I always shake my case to get all of the bubbles out anyway. Not to mention I mounted it so the XS-PC logo is right side up, my common sense tells me that's how the block was meant to be mounted.

Neways i'm rocking a Swiftech Apogee HD now anyway.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> Unfortunately it nothing to brag about, I still think THIS takes the ghetto award


Agreed lol


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Agreed lol


I have seen better ghetto watercooling loops.


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Those aren't very loud (Turning on a Cisco 2811) ... Check out the Dell R720 ...


ohh yea try a 48 port catalyst switch on fan test

used to power them up for testing in the corner of a 50 person office and watch their faces drop


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> ohh yea try a 48 port catalyst switch on fan test
> 
> used to power them up for testing in the corner of a 50 person office and watch their faces drop


Those are also extremely loud


----------



## cptnighthawk666

ghetto rigged an acer aspire dualcore laptop inside my cm 690 2 case


----------



## mrfajita

My computers are basically held together with high strength foam 3M double sided tape. Both fans on my CPU cooler (same with my old one) are held on it with it, my old SSD was attached to the back of the drive bays with it, and many other fans on many other things, including a 80mm fan on the VRMs of an old MSI watercooled 8800GTX that is volt modded and massively OCd.


----------



## selk22

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> ghetto rigged an acer aspire dualcore laptop inside my cm 690 2 case






That is awesome bro...


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> ghetto rigged an acer aspire dualcore laptop inside my cm 690 2 case


Noice! What are the specs on the laptop? I might be able to help you upgrade. Heat isn't a problem now that you have a competent CPU cooler as an option.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

is it touch screen ??


----------



## cptnighthawk666

the specs-its an acer aspire 722 dualcore netbook,2 gigs of ram,amd c60 apu,120 gig ssd,and no its not touch screen....sorry i wish....but on the plus side i use a program called sharemouse that lets me controll both computers with one mouse and keyboard.as for heat i really dont think there is much coming from the front pannel pc but i need to cool my 580 as its hitting 85 in bf4 ...scary i know


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Too bad. The APU is soldered onto the motherboard and can't really be replaced. 9W is quite nice however.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

its pretty good for what im using it for.i cant really find a better netbook for 30$


----------



## hakz

you might wanna try mouse without borders, been using it for a while now








excellent mod bdw, love to do the same!


----------



## cptnighthawk666

ill give it a try thanks man


----------



## GhettoFied

ghetto rigged an acer aspire dualcore laptop inside my cm 690 2 case






[/quote]
WHERE IS YOUR AWARD. Like seriously that is the best thing ever.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

thanks man


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

I follow this comunity from a while, but man I had to post something on my earlier configurations that I really can define "ghetto"









*DOUBLE PSU* with only one main switch









In the secondary PSU, you can see a relé used to enable the power ON at the same time. The relé is activated using one of the molex of the primary PSU.







For who is wondering, that "set up" was used a lot of time ago, just to test an *ATI X1950GT* because I had not a PSU enough power at that moment.
The test run smoothly without any issue, and don't worry about safety, the system itself is still alive (in a box) but wasn't used anymore.



*I have moar of ghetto-stuff like this, if you want I can easly post something more!

Greetings from Italy.*


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> I follow this comunity from a while, but man I had to post something on my earlier configurations that I really can define "ghetto"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *DOUBLE PSU* with only one main switch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the secondary PSU, you can see a relé used to enable the power ON at the same time. The relé is activated using one of the molex of the primary PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For who is wondering, that "set up" was used a lot of time ago, just to test an *ATI X1950GT* because I had not a PSU enough power at that moment.
> The test run smoothly without any issue, and don't worry about safety, the system itself is still alive (in a box) but wasn't used anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> *I have moar of ghetto-stuff like this, if you want I can easly post something more!
> 
> Greetings from Italy.*


Very professional! The molex looks like it's supposed to be there. Would love to see more!


----------



## theKab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Very professional! The molex looks like it's supposed to be there. Would love to see more!


Yes please, show us more!


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> I follow this comunity from a while, but man I had to post something on my earlier configurations that I really can define "ghetto"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Snip


Repped.


----------



## spice003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> ghetto rigged an acer aspire dualcore laptop inside my cm 690 2 case


WHERE IS YOUR AWARD. Like seriously that is the best thing ever.[/quote]

thats freaking cool !


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Repped.


Thanks!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Very professional! The molex looks like it's supposed to be there. Would love to see more!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theKab*
> 
> Yes please, show us more!


Thanks to you too









Well, I used some spare 3 wire cable to connect the power connector of the first PSU with the second one.







The real problem was to enable both the PSUs to start at the same time (*the reason is because each power supply was plumping one of the two molex of the GPU*).
It was solved with the car relé, wich il connected to the molex connector you can see in these pictures (which takes the 5V from a molex connector from the first supply):





So at the precise moment you start the first power supply, with the normal switch, he delivers the 12V / 5V / 3.3V to all the connectors, and at that moment the molex turn the relé on, so the second PSU can starts as well, so basically they turn on at the same time


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> relé


I'm like, 90% sure you want to say relay instead of relé. But either way, that is certainly a novel way to use two PSUs in tandem. Nice clean job, almost looks too nice to be in the ghetto rig thread!


----------



## AbidingDude

Just to be totally clear, This isn't my setup but totally warrants a post here


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to you too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I used some spare 3 wire cable to connect the power connector of the first PSU with the second one.


Even though you will risk losing some of that delightful ghettoness, you really should have a grommet protecting that cable where it goes through the hole in the grill. At least, wrapping some tape around the cable where it passes through the grill will protect the cable from short causing wear while maintaining ghettoness.


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> ghetto rigged an acer aspire dualcore laptop inside my cm 690 2 case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is awesome.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

thank you


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> I'm like, 90% sure you want to say relay instead of relé. But either way, that is certainly a novel way to use two PSUs in tandem. Nice clean job, almost looks too nice to be in the ghetto rig thread!


He said greetings from Italy. http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rel%C3%A9
http://translate.google.com/#it/en/Rel%C3%A9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbidingDude*
> 
> Just to be totally clear, This isn't my setup but totally warrants a post here


WOW!!!


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbidingDude*
> 
> Just to be totally clear, This isn't my setup but totally warrants a post here


I must say, through all my years of browsing the web and seeing some ghetto stuff, it all seems so similar and doesn't phase me, but this is a first for me.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> He said greetings from Italy. http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rel%C3%A9
> http://translate.google.com/#it/en/Rel%C3%A9
> WOW!!!


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> I'm like, 90% sure you want to say relay instead of relé. But either way, that is certainly a novel way to use two PSUs in tandem. Nice clean job, almost looks too nice to be in the ghetto rig thread!


This









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> He said greetings from Italy. http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rel%C3%A9
> http://translate.google.com/#it/en/Rel%C3%A9












Anyway you are totally right, it's a relay taken from a car. About the ghetto rig....the thing, more than an electrical job itself, is the fact I wanted to power up a powerfull VGA without a sufficient PSU









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> *Even though you will risk losing some of that delightful ghettoness*, you really should have a grommet protecting that cable where it goes through the hole in the grill. At least, wrapping some tape around the cable where it passes through the grill will protect the cable from short causing wear while maintaining ghettoness.


You made me laugh







Anyway, of course you are right, but as I said, the cable was just a used spare cable (infact the signs you see were already on the cable covering).
Also, the system was used just one time, and the protecting sheet is really thick, so the cable si safe, don't worry









*@ "GhettoFied"*














*LOL*


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> ...*@ "GhettoFied"*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *LOL*


Ghettofied. < _snort_ > < _choke_ >


----------



## canadian1695

This isn't PC related but it's still some awesome ghetto rigging. We needed a dolly close to the ground so I used a compound bow some gaffing tape and a tripod dolly and it ended up working really well!


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbidingDude*
> 
> Just to be totally clear, This isn't my setup but totally warrants a post here


it looks like a projector? but then it looks like a taken apart LCD, and in some ways a butchered CRT








wat is it and why?


----------



## Blubird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbidingDude*
> 
> Just to be totally clear, This isn't my setup but totally warrants a post here


Ghetto rigging level: Expert


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> it looks like a projector? but then it looks like a taken apart LCD, and in some ways a butchered CRT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wat is it and why?


LCD monitor with dead back-lighting.


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> it looks like a projector? but then it looks like a taken apart LCD, and in some ways a butchered CRT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wat is it and why?


Definitely not a CRT. I'm quite certain that it's a butchered lcd screen. I'm guessing that his back light blew and he made a makeshift backlight using a fluorescent light and custom mounts.

The verdict is that should be on the first page as I doubt that it can be beat. One water cooling setup that I've seen seems kinda silly in this thread as it isn't really make-shift.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I have seen better ghetto watercooling loops.


Ah.........some pictures perhaps?


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Some more ghetto-stuff for you!

After a lot of years, my trusted Creative speakers had some issues, one of the most annoying was the grey tissue mesh really dirty and ruined.

*NO BIG DEAL*

Took some pantyhose (the same I use for dust filter on PC cases) and cut some pieces enough big to cover the entire space, and voilà, the result:



Old version on the left and newer version on the right, already assembled. Took just some drops of hot glue and some patience to reach an uniform result


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Ghettofied. < _snort_ > < _choke_ >


Lol yeah I though of that meme and it fit perfectly


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> Some more ghetto-stuff for you!
> 
> After a lot of years, my trusted Creative speakers had some issues, one of the most annoying was the grey tissue mesh really dirty and ruined.
> 
> *NO BIG DEAL*


WOW that looks pretty sharp. Another project that looks far too nice to really be called ghetto, and yet it is somehow still ghetto. Awesome work man


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> Some more ghetto-stuff for you!
> 
> After a lot of years, my trusted Creative speakers had some issues, one of the most annoying was the grey tissue mesh really dirty and ruined.
> 
> *NO BIG DEAL*
> 
> Took some pantyhose (the same I use for dust filter on PC cases) and cut some pieces enough big to cover the entire space, and voilà, the result:
> 
> *snip*


Not a bad idea for dust filters; I'll need to try this. Very nicely done too. I learned about the wonders of this miracle cloth when vacuuming Legos: rubberband it over the hand-hold thing, stick a brush over that, and go to town.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

*@ M3nta1*

Thank you very very much for the appreciation
















I applyed literally the definition I found reading this thread, something like:

"_ghetto is referred to something you do to reach an achievement or to obtain somethng in an unusual way, using something that is not supposed to do that job but that does it anyway_"









I think -but I can be wrong- that this doesn't necessary imply it must look terrible







Hope I got correctly the meaning of the thread, you have to exuse me for any eventual misunderstanding, english is not my native language









*@ CynicalUnicorn*

I really use them a lot, I believe they are useful as filters as nothing else


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> I think -but I can be wrong- that this doesn't necessary imply it must look terrible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I got correctly the meaning of the thread, you have to exuse me for any eventual misunderstanding, *english is not my native language*


And yet better than a whole lot of people. I don't think it has to by definition look bad, but lots of duct tape and zip ties aren't unexpected. This is more about wacky mods that you've done to solve a problem without spending a lot (or anything), not mods that look like crap and by some miracle still work.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> I don't think it has to by definition look bad, but *lots of duct tape and zip ties aren't unexpected*.










That's for sure!

Quote:


> This is more about wacky mods that you've done to solve a problem without spending a lot (or anything), *not mods that look like crap and by some miracle still work.*


Anyway these makes for sure me laugh more


----------



## Daen Orchard

I will definitely have to post some pictures tmrw once I get the chance. Just finished converting a poly bucket into a air tunnel for my aged file-server/htpc. I can honestly say I never thought zip ties could be so useful.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> I think -but I can be wrong- that this doesn't necessary imply it must look terrible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I got correctly the meaning of the thread, you have to exuse me for any eventual misunderstanding, *english is not my native language*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And yet better than a whole lot of people.* I don't think it has to by definition look bad, but lots of duct tape and zip ties aren't unexpected. This is more about wacky mods that you've done to solve a problem without spending a lot (or anything), not mods that look like crap and by some miracle still work.
Click to expand...

What CynicalUnicorn said. Especially the bolded part. Ghetto normally looks bad because it was made out of stuff lying around, yet you use it all so well it looks as good (or, in the case of the speakers, better) than a pro job.


----------



## Ziglez

Idk if you would classify this as ghetto rigging, but here goes. It's cooling my raid card and raid expander atm sadly. It's also sitting on one of the cable boxes the lian li case came with haha.


----------



## hakz

this is pretty much my favorite ocn thread....ever.









get ghettofied!


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> Some more ghetto-stuff for you!
> 
> After a lot of years, my trusted Creative speakers had some issues, one of the most annoying was the grey tissue mesh really dirty and ruined.
> 
> *NO BIG DEAL*
> 
> Took some pantyhose (the same I use for dust filter on PC cases) and cut some pieces enough big to cover the entire space, and voilà, the result:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pantyhose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old version on the left and newer version on the right, already assembled. Took just some drops of hot glue and some patience to reach an uniform result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More pantyhose


So, whose pantyhose iswas that?









In other news, something I am deeply sorry that I didn't make a photo-log of...

*How I replaced a "fully working" AGP-8, DDR-I proprietary main component system*
(but with no [none, nada, никакъв] signal output to the monitor) with something a tad better (yay for DDR-II and PCI-E)



Spoiler: Here's a story for you



How do you fit an ATX mobo in a Dell proprietary case?
This is the problem [poor lightning and potato pic]:



Well.. First off, I had to remove the duct with the fan which leads cold air into the otherwise passive heatsink of the CPU.
Then you can't really position the mobo there because the Dells' I/O ports are pulled down, as you can see. SO LET'S CUT!

This thing felt like cutting through steel, and it was just as heavy.







Overall a pita, but nothing that powertools and swearing can't fix. I even filed it.
_But then..._

The motherboard had <1mm of clearance from the case floor _and_ the PCI-E slots weren't alligned. So far, so good. 'I'll just pull it up a bit', I thought. Hmmm.. but I couldn't, something was in the way. OH HEY LOOK, THEIR PSU ISN'T THE STANDARD SIZE!! Luckily, I had to replace it too. So I did. But the new one had a power switch below the cord plug. _Well then, let's get the dremel out._ After a heavy grind, it almost fit. And since my last polishing tip (that thing ate through three of them) was done for, I might have kind of flipped out. But I have a very rough rasper, so I took all my feelings out on the poor case. A couple of minutes later, perfect fit!

Well I had that going for me, which was nice.

But my agony was far from over...

The original motherboard was on an aluminum table, and they would not separate.
That's nice. Now where's my tap? Ahhh, here it is.







*PREPARE YOUR DIDDLY-HOLES, CASE*









Well that was done and I had leftover stand-offs from other cases. Mobo was put in place, finally it liked it.

Time to close this up and never ever look at it again. _But where can I possibly stick all those cables??_
After about 30 minutes of cable rout..twisting, knotting, cables entangling me with clearly a murderous intent and a couple of bleeding fingertips, they were finally stuffed in a place where they wouldn't get in the way. Whew!

_Time to close this up and never ever look at it again_...again.
There we go, now let me just align the hinges in place...


Spoiler: BUT I COULDN'T



*AAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOGGGAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHRWRIJAWIJR [gurgling sounds]*



The optical drive bay was touching the motherboard.
Needless to say, I quickly transitioned from calm to MEGABERSERK MURDER RAMPAGE, and using the sparks that shot out of my eyes, I cut one of the sides off.
_You are messing with my Zen thing, man._

It fit!

Sooooo... I plugged the GPU in, reinstalled Windows (mmm.. the Windows XP CD pleases me)
And realized I had no internet.

Sure, not a problem.

Well, both the motherboards' Ethernet adapters were dead, but luckily the Dell already had an additional network card.
_Come here, baby..._
I shut the PC down, plugged it in, and powered it on.

*Guess what?*


Spoiler: The plot twist



I. HAD. NO. VIDEO. SIGNAL.
None from the VGA. None from the DVI.
NOTHING AT ALL.

That Eth adapter was forged in *Hell*.

Apparently it caused irreversible damage to both motherboards somehow... And to this day I have no idea how/what exactly it did.



I cried a little. I seriously shed a tear.
And I gave up.

Called the friend of mine who owned the computer and explained it all. He stood silent.

And the funny thing is, I was planning to use those parts for a home router + file server.
But... Life happens.











Well, I hope you enjoyed it!

Did I manage to pull it off for the lack of pictures? Please don't hit me hard!


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> So, whose pantyhose iswas that?


Do you mean where the pantyhose came from? If so, they were a pair of my girlfriend tights, she has tons of these









Nice story about the ATX motherboard


----------



## GhettoFied

I came upon this thread somehow and made an account just for it, hence the name. Before getting on here I was mainly on XDA. This has been way more fun!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> Ah.........some pictures perhaps?



This one is a ghetto loop from auction portal.
Or if you want some serious ghetto then read this thread:
http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1366381-0.html
Ghetto blocks for everything,ghetto mounting just everything.


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> This one is a ghetto loop from auction portal.
> Or if you want some serious ghetto then read this thread:
> http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1366381-0.html
> Ghetto blocks for everything,ghetto mounting just everything.


OK, I understand your comment now.


----------



## shadowguy

best thread ever


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> This one is a ghetto loop from auction portal.
> Or if you want some serious ghetto then read this thread:
> http://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1366381-0.html
> Ghetto blocks for everything,ghetto mounting just everything.


holy crap! i did a loop like that like... 10 years ago!

someone else is out there as cheap as i am!


----------



## ccRicers

Heh, that reminds me of a help thread made in Hard Forums where someone wanted to water cool dozens of GPUs in a mining rig and asked if meters of tubing with a big truck rad was one of the viable options.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbidingDude*
> 
> Just to be totally clear, This isn't my setup but totally warrants a post here
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks pretty cool.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Heh, that reminds me of a help thread made in Hard Forums where someone wanted to water cool dozens of GPUs in a mining rig and asked if meters of tubing with a big truck rad was one of the viable options.


depends. though i doubt one big truck rad would be enough; they're built more for passive cooling while in motion. so the fins are spaced out a bit. Its a good question though. I'd probably tell him to try it and see what happens.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azanimefan*
> 
> depends. though i doubt one big truck rad would be enough; they're built more for passive cooling while in motion. so the fins are spaced out a bit. Its a good question though. I'd probably tell him to try it and see what happens.


The general consensus was to either confine the mining rig to something like a meat locker or a similar cooling room made for large racks of network hardware, as a water cooling loop for a setup of that size would be a maintenance nightmare.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

You have fans that sound like a jet engine? Buzz incessantly? Do you want to rip your ears out? Hi, ghost of Billy Mays here to tell you about the 5V Molex mod:

http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> You have fans that sound like a jet engine? Buzz incessantly? Do you want to rip your ears out? Hi, ghost of Billy Mays here to tell you about the 5V Molex mod:
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137


In 2003 or 2004 I bought a couple of Zalman 80mm fans and they had done the same thing for the quiet mode.


----------



## Anthropolis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> You have fans that sound like a jet engine? Buzz incessantly? Do you want to rip your ears out? Hi, ghost of Billy Mays here to tell you about the 5V Molex mod:
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/other/137


I love this bc I'm often doing fake Billy Mays advertisement voices lol! But wait! Act now and we'll send you TWO molex fan mods, just pay shipping and processing.


----------



## GhettoFied

Not sure how off topic this is gonna be, but I just ordered a replacement housing for my Gameboy Advance SP and I wondered if you guys would be interested in seeing build pics. It'll get here in like 2 weeks (shipped form china). Are there any old school gamers on here? Also, its an AGS-101 for anyone who's interested.


----------



## Ali Man

Not sure if ghetto.... or just naked.....


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

101 is the backlit one, right? It's tech-related so I don't see how it would be off-topic. I'm definitely interested!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> 101 is the backlit one, right? It's tech-related so I don't see how it would be off-topic. I'm definitely interested!


Yessir! Suprised anyone actually knew what I was talking about. If you've never seen one of them, the screen in it is unbelievable. Glad there's some interest, Ill post up the rebuild when the casing gets here!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Not sure if ghetto.... or just naked.....


It's ghetto only id it stays that way. Otherwise, its just benching. I did pretty much the same thing to make sure my MOBO, RAM CPU, GPU and PSU played well together before I stuffed them in my case. I didn't even bother to hook up a HDD or SSD. I just wanted to make sure it would post.


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> It's ghetto only id it stays that way. Otherwise, its just benching. I did pretty much the same thing to make sure my MOBO, RAM CPU, GPU and PSU played well together before I stuffed them in my case. I didn't even bother to hook up a HDD or SSD. I just wanted to make sure it would post.


Yep, did the same. Makes no sense testing it when it's installed, only to know that the mobo was DOA.... Although it's in the rig now, but only the chassis of my case is there, everything else is off....


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ali Man*
> 
> Yep, did the same. Makes no sense testing it when it's installed, only to know that the mobo was DOA.... Although it's in the rig now, but only the chassis of my case is there, everything else is off....


What's that heatsink in the first pic?


----------



## Master__Shake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> What's that heatsink in the first pic?


nhd14...

on second thought something from phanteks.


----------



## Roaches

Finstack profile looks like a Thermalright Silver Arrow


----------



## Ali Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> What's that heatsink in the first pic?


What roach said, Silver Arrow (Not the SB-E version).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> nhd14...
> 
> on second thought something from phanteks.


The second is Phanteks, probably the best air cooler I've used to date.


----------



## hakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Not sure how off topic this is gonna be, but I just ordered a replacement housing for my Gameboy Advance SP and I wondered if you guys would be interested in seeing build pics. It'll get here in like 2 weeks (shipped form china). Are there any old school gamers on here? Also, its an AGS-101 for anyone who's interested.


yes please. love to see em ghettoness on retro consoles as well. Famicom mod would be awesome.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

This is a personal project made a lot of time ago, just to test some rads and some waterblocks. Unfortunately I had lack of water pumps at that time, so I thought to made myself one









Enjoy some shots of my small ghetto project, using a simple 12V motor, attached internally to fan blades, a simple power supply made out of an ATX PSU and some plastic sheet:

*ASSEMBLY*:
12V motor, fan blades, in blue a plastic casting from some candy, in green the top of a plastic water bottle, and some pieces of blue idraulic tube..of course silicone everywere.
You can see the bottle cap used to seal the motor from the water inside of the pump.











*EVERYTHING GLUED TOGHETHER*



*SYSTEM*:
A water bottle is here used as a reservoir





*RESULTS*:
That actually worked pretty well I have to say







No leaks after some sealing improvements.









*LOOP COMPLETED*:
Back to the top of the bottle, kept working for the rest of the tests.



Hope you enjoyed!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> This is a personal project made a lot of time ago, just to test some rads and some waterblocks. Unfortunately I had lack of water pumps at that time, so I thought to made myself one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy some shots of my small ghetto project, using a simple 12V motor, attached internally to fan blades, a simple power supply made out of an ATX PSU and some plastic sheet:
> 
> *ASSEMBLY*:
> 12V motor, fan blades, in blue a plastic casting from some candy, in green the top of a plastic water bottle, and some pieces of blue idraulic tube..of course silicone everywere.
> You can see the bottle cap used to seal the motor from the water inside of the pump.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EVERYTHING GLUED TOGHETHER*
> 
> 
> 
> *SYSTEM*:
> A water bottle is here used as a reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *RESULTS*:
> That actually worked pretty well I have to say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No leaks after some sealing improvements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *LOOP COMPLETED*:
> Back to the top of the bottle, kept working for the rest of the tests.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you enjoyed!


I HAVE to try something like that. Love the radiator free design, very innovative! Love the use of easy to find and cheap materials, and that pump is epic. What are your temps like?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> yes please. love to see em ghettoness on retro consoles as well. Famicom mod would be awesome.


I really wanted to do famicom colors but couldn't find any on eBay







the one I got is all black and comes with Grey buttons but I have some black ones currently, so I'll have an all black one. I'll probably do something custom with my old shell, maybe famicom if I can get the right paint. Does anyone have and recommendations for a thin paint that won't ever rub off or smell? Also it's gotta be kind of cheap too lol.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I HAVE to try something like that. Love the radiator free design, very innovative! Love the use of easy to find and cheap materials, and that pump is epic. What are your temps like?


*LOL* thanks for the comment







I actually used this set up only for testing 2 radiators and one waterblock for leaks, but I didn't trustet too much this pump (even if it's still in my room and still works if used). For the real setup, I used a proper water pump, because after 3 hours of pumping this home made one started to slowly decrease the water flow because was slightly overheating (poor pump) but still worked fine, and if cooled with an external fan, could surely do something more









In the same period I also made an home made waterblock -just for fun- for an ancient P4 478 3.0 HT processor...I may have some pictures too.


----------



## shadowguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> *LOL* thanks for the comment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually used this set up only for testing 2 radiators and one waterblock for leaks, but I didn't trustet too much this pump (even if it's still in my room and still works if used). For the real setup, I used a proper water pump, because after 3 hours of pumping this home made one started to slowly decrease the water flow because was slightly overheating (poor pump) but still worked fine, and if cooled with an external fan, could surely do something more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the same period I also made an home made waterblock -just for fun- for an ancient P4 478 3.0 HT processor...I may have some pictures too.


water cool the pump


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Yessir! Suprised anyone actually knew what I was talking about. If you've never seen one of them, the screen in it is unbelievable. Glad there's some interest, Ill post up the rebuild when the casing gets here!


I got bored once and was on Wikipedia. Guess what happened next.







I might have been looking up the GBA Micro? I have considered getting one for cheapish on eBay, but I haven't yet worn out the one I've since near launch despite all the abuse. The thing is nearly 10 years old now! I definitely need to finish up my GBA mod: three sets of two AA cells in series in parallel. Theoretically it should last 45 hours before dying. I just need a case for them and I want to add back-lighting, or at least front-lighting, and more importantly I need a soldering iron.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

That is so ghetto dude.


----------



## Narinik

220mm/150cfpm case fan mounted in an acrylic case using 2.5in lag bolts. You can see where the case had 80mm grills built in. The bolts have a square just under the head, so i drilled out the size of the bolt in the acrylic, heated the head of the bolt with a torch and melted them in place.
The fan had an led version for 5-6 bucks more but i got the non-led version. To my surprise the pcb in the fan still had the led pads and mounts on it! So i just crammed a nice blue led in there and soldered it up! I bought 5 leds, but only got around to adding 1 to see if it would work. I also scratched the hell out of the case sanding it. whoops.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

now all you need is 3 more to deghetto your fan


----------



## TH3CrazyRussian

Zipties to hold a Zalaman CPNS 8000 in place, since the dummy owner of it decide to leave me hanging on the AMD brackets for it. Was building my brothers system and we bought the cooler, so I had to get to modding!

Works fine even to this day. 30C Load on all four cores!


----------



## Iniura

My Rig at the moment in an old pentium 4 case


----------



## Narinik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> My Rig at the moment in an old pentium 4 case


My rig IS an old pentium 4. Not sure if I should be proud of that or not...


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

You should only be ashamed if you aren't running PATA HDDs and a floppy drive too!







Bonus points for AGP GPUs.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> You should only be ashamed if you aren't running PATA HDDs and a floppy drive too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus points for AGP GPUs.


I see your bet and raise to ghetto-modded 212 Evo, cut-out rear panel for shoehorned 120mm, another 120mm in 5.25 bays, zip-tied fan for the AGP GPU, and astronautics-grade vibration dampeners for the PATA HDD







.


----------



## Boinz

Is that a shoelace?


----------



## TELVM

_Two_ shoelaces as a matter of fact.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> _Two_ shoelaces as a matter of fact.


Rep'd.


----------



## Narinik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> You should only be ashamed if you aren't running PATA HDDs and a floppy drive too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bonus points for AGP GPUs.


Does a 3.25 floppy and an agb 6x count?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> _Two_ shoelaces as a matter of fact.


It does seem like a decent dampener and easy screw less solution.


----------



## Anthropolis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> _Two_ shoelaces as a matter of fact.


Not sure how ghetto this really is, I think it's brilliant and works best. I have tried the shoelaces, tried leather cording (the leather does in fact work well, but it's ugly and you can tell its leather... but I used black so it wasn't so bad), and I tried a few different elastics until I found the best one for sound deadening. It's called "black non-roll 1 inch elastic" and I got two packs of it at Walmart for like $2.50 each or something. Link to Wallyworld product just so you can see what to look for if you decide to do it, something similar should be available at any craft store like a Michael's or Jo-Ann's or whatever: http://www.walmart.com/ip/1-Non-Roll-Elastic-Black/19757871. If you have holes instead of big slots like I do, then you can find about the same stuff, black elastic cord, and use the same method I did.

What I did is, using only 1 pack of it, I stretched the elastic tight around the HDD one time and tied it tight, so I have a baseline attachment. Then I slipped it through the slots on each side of my HDD cage, then back around to underneath the drive, then I tied it very tight while pulling on BOTH sides so that the drive will be centered in the cage and not touching any sides.

It is a very loud old WD 7200 rpm drive, and it is silent now. But notice I have added some Dynamat/GTMat to the outside, yes this does increase the temps by about 5 degrees C, but the drive maxes out at 45C while the other media drive maxes out at 40C. (link to the sound dampening I use for drives and on back of my mobo tray: Ebay: GTMat License Plate Kit 2 sheets of 80mil Ultra

Here's some pics of it all together, I should have taken pics as I put it together but oh well, my description should be enough if you want to try it.
Cost: ~$2.50 for 1 pack of elastic, enough to do 1 HDD. $3.99 for one kit of GTMat sound dampening "licence plate kit" enough to do 2 HDD's
Silence: priceless!!!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Rep'd.


lol









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narinik*
> 
> Does a 3.25 floppy and an agb 6x count?
> 
> It does seem like a decent dampener and easy screw less solution.


3.5" or 5.25"? 3.25" is not a thing. I'm rocking a 3.5" drive myself because ASRock included a port for it for some reason. There's also a port supporting 2x ATA-133 connections, which would not be bad for a dedicated Compact Flash reader (I believe it is a native PATA device) if I were into photography.

I've also seen thick rubber bands used. Acts as a shock absorber for obvious reasons and as a sound dampener for some of the louder 3.5" drives out there or 10 000RPM server drives. Yes, that means you, RAID 0 VelociRaptor owners!


----------



## Narinik

Derp, 3.5. Ive got a 5.25 sitting on the shelf in front of me. And I believe that's an 85mb hdd under it.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anthropolis*
> 
> ... Silence: priceless!!!


Agreed!














































And behold this masterpiece by another artist, crowning work of the ghetto-modding







:


----------



## Anthropolis

Wowie thats a bulky way to go for silence haha but I love it! The heatsink additions is an excellent idea. I did learn that enclosing the hdd completely in acoustic foam, like the kind used on studio walls and whatever, is an effective way to silence, but the drive sits at a deathly 75C+ that way lol.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

You want your HDDs to be at 30-35C or so. Anything much above 45 or below 20 is not very good. I'll try and find the link but Google did a study on theirs. Heatsinks are an excellent idea.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> You want your HDDs to be at 30-35C or so. Anything much above 45 or below 20 is not very good. I'll try and find the link but Google did a study on theirs. Heatsinks are an excellent idea.


I would say the temps are safe all the way up to low 40's (41,42,43).


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Safe, yes. Optimum, no. The failure rate was increased significantly when moving from 30-35 to 35-40 in that test IIRC, though it was overall low enough as to not have much of an effect on a small sample size, i.e. what normal consumers deal with.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I would say the temps are safe all the way up to low 40's (41,42,43).


static.googleusercontent.com/media/research.google.com/en/us/archive/disk_failures.pdf
Quote:


> Surprisingly, we found
> that temperature and activity levels were much less correlated
> with drive failures than previously reported.


see page 6. 35-45C looks to be ideal. Colder does NOT look advantageous.


----------



## Widde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> My Rig at the moment in an old pentium 4 case


HAH







Had one of those aswell, housed my first self built pc







Aopen H600b if I remember correctly


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> My Rig at the moment in an old pentium 4 case


A hidden precious. From outside it looks like an old outdated cheap pc. Inside we have high-end parts.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Yeah. Have that in your office with the Pentium4 and preferably Windows Vista sticker on it and a broken Xbox in your living room. When burglars come to your house, they take the Xbox first and leave the old crappy PC. It's brilliant! The LED fans on mine give it away as being worth more than $100.


----------



## Bugattikid2012

No one has replied to my lastest thread, so I'm just gonna post it here as this seems to have a few people looking at it atm. Not spamming, I know it's a little off topic, but it only takes a few seconds of your time to answer this. Thanks

http://www.overclock.net/t/1462694/wanna-do-something-cool-with-leds-need-suggestion-on-housing-for-it


----------



## GhettoFied

Wow. an 85mb HDD? it's crazy to believe how far advancements have been made. On a side note, just changed my user icon and 1 million internet points to anyone who knows what game it's from


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

The first 4TB came out in 2011 and the first 1TB drive sometime between '05 and '07. CPUs were well over 100nm within the past ten years.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> The first 4TB came out in 2011 and the first 1TB drive sometime between '05 and '07. CPUs were well over 100nm within the past ten years.


Under


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Wow. an 85mb HDD? it's crazy to believe how far advancements have been made. On a side note, just changed my user icon and 1 million internet points to anyone who knows what game it's from


wario...so those points in paypal pls...lol


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Hang on, I'm trying to find a graph of transistors over time. And Dave since when do you post here? Are you a stalker?


----------



## Narinik

I always liked this comparison. Though a 256gb jump drive in 2011 must have been expensive.


----------



## Anthropolis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bugattikid2012*
> 
> No one has replied to my lastest thread, so I'm just gonna post it here as this seems to have a few people looking at it atm. Not spamming, I know it's a little off topic, but it only takes a few seconds of your time to answer this. Thanks
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1462694/wanna-do-something-cool-with-leds-need-suggestion-on-housing-for-it


Do what I did and build yourself a tight LED array. I wanted some UV LED's to light my case when I don't feel like having my UV cold cathodes heating up the case. The existing LED arrays I saw for sale looked like garbage, big and bulky, and weren't UV anyway.

You'll need the following: a nice thick piece of cardboard, some number of LED's, some very high quality resistors (the thick blue or silver ones, not the cheapo brown ones), a very high level of soldering skills, some solder, soldering iron, wire.

Decide where you want to place the array, cut cardboard to appropriate size, push LEDs through cardboard making sure to keep all the - and + alligned properly, fold down the leads to lay flat, solder all leads on + and on - sides, make an array of resistors by bundling 4 together and soldering them so they have one lead on each end, solder resistor array to the last led, solder wires to leads. run wire to switch, run switch to 12v molex plug. Profit!

UV LED array in top back corner:


Glow baby glow










Switch array for my LEDs, Cold Cathodes, and BIOS reset switches:


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Hang on, I'm trying to find a graph of transistors over time. And Dave since when do you post here? Are you a stalker?


I've always been here







I don't have much ghetto to post (Maybe my weird speaker setup might mean a ghetto setup) though







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narinik*
> 
> I always liked this comparison. Though a 256gb jump drive in 2011 must have been expensive.


Still considerably cheaper than the 5MB monster


----------



## Bugattikid2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anthropolis*
> 
> Do what I did and build yourself a tight LED array. I wanted some UV LED's to light my case when I don't feel like having my UV cold cathodes heating up the case. The existing LED arrays I saw for sale looked like garbage, big and bulky, and weren't UV anyway.
> 
> You'll need the following: a nice thick piece of cardboard, some number of LED's, some very high quality resistors (the thick blue or silver ones, not the cheapo brown ones), a very high level of soldering skills, some solder, soldering iron, wire.
> 
> Decide where you want to place the array, cut cardboard to appropriate size, push LEDs through cardboard making sure to keep all the - and + alligned properly, fold down the leads to lay flat, solder all leads on + and on - sides, make an array of resistors by bundling 4 together and soldering them so they have one lead on each end, solder resistor array to the last led, solder wires to leads. run wire to switch, run switch to 12v molex plug. Profit!
> 
> UV LED array in top back corner:
> 
> 
> Glow baby glow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switch array for my LEDs, Cold Cathodes, and BIOS reset switches:


Allright, I like that idea. But what about the housing for the actual thing they are going to illuminate? Take a quick peek at this video, and within the first min you can see what he lights up. I'm wondering what should I use in place of that can? I'm thinking about using plexiglass, but is there anything else that will look cool and still be easy to aquire and mess with? Thanks for the reply again.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Narinik*
> 
> I always liked this comparison. Though a 256gb jump drive in 2011 must have been expensive.
> 
> *snip*


Probably. NAND has gotten really cheap recently. I got my 128GB flash drive for just $77 in March or April. SSDs with 256GiB are fairly cheap; $200 is expensive and $150 or less is a common sale price.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I've always been here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have much ghetto to post (Maybe my weird speaker setup might mean a ghetto setup) though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eaper than the 5MB monster


Hmm... Your case hybrid craziness needs more duct tape. I think it will be eligible then.









They had a 10MB prototype (1 byte = 7 bits for that drive) but never marketed it. Why? Nobody had a use for that much data!

EDIT: HA! I am just barely right Dave! Wikipedia:
Quote:


> On September 17, 2003, Intel unveiled plans for releasing its then next-generation of Pentium M processors, codenamed "Dothan" by them. It was named after another ancient town in Israel, and it launched formally on May 10, 2004.


BOOM! IN YOUR FACE!







May 10, 2014 is still several months away, and that was Intel's first sub-100nm CPU. I didn't realize we had crossed that barrier so long ago though. Apparently 45nm was the norm around '08-'10. AMD K8 architecture was introduced in 2003 at the size of 130nm but dropped to 65nm later in its life. Presumably that was not before 2014 was over. So I am just barely right!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Probably. NAND has gotten really cheap recently. I got my 128GB flash drive for just $77 in March or April. SSDs with 256GiB are fairly cheap; $200 is expensive and $150 or less is a common sale price.
> Hmm... Your case hybrid craziness needs more duct tape. I think it will be eligible then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They had a 10MB prototype (1 byte = 7 bits for that drive) but never marketed it. Why? Nobody had a use for that much data!
> 
> EDIT: HA! I am just barely right Dave! Wikipedia:
> BOOM! IN YOUR FACE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May 10, 2014 is still several months away, and that was Intel's first sub-100nm CPU. I didn't realize we had crossed that barrier so long ago though. Apparently 45nm was the norm around '08-'10. AMD K8 architecture was introduced in 2003 at the size of 130nm but dropped to 65nm later in its life. Presumably that was not before 2014 was over. So I am just barely right!


LOL. Nah it's crazy but I'm not letting it be ghetto








I'm still on a half a decade old platform







Well I only have Intel to blame for their slow progress here.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Nehalem is still pretty good, but if you have the opportunity to upgrade then go right ahead. Sandy Bridge was the last big jump though. Ivy was a die shrink and really should not have improved at all. Broadwell is just going to improve the iGPUs. Haswell-E will support DDR4; unfortunately it dropped DDR3 support and DDR4 at launch will only be 2133-2400MHz or so. I'll gladly jump on the APU bandwagon when they support 4266MHz DDR4!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> wario...so those points in paypal pls...lol


Pending. However its paypal so it'll take you -2763589E8753 years to actually deposit.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Nehalem is still pretty good, but if you have the opportunity to upgrade then go right ahead. Sandy Bridge was the last big jump though. Ivy was a die shrink and really should not have improved at all. Broadwell is just going to improve the iGPUs. Haswell-E will support DDR4; unfortunately it dropped DDR3 support and DDR4 at launch will only be 2133-2400MHz or so. I'll gladly jump on the APU bandwagon when they support 4266MHz DDR4!


6-core power.








It'll cost me just 700$ to upgrade to a 4930k and a RIVF







(Local money of course and even then that RIVF is used. And that 4930k is a ES ._.)


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Wow. an 85mb HDD? it's crazy to believe how far advancements have been made. On a side note, just changed my user icon and 1 million internet points to anyone who knows what game it's from


Heh, I had an Apple Hard Disk 20SC back in the day. it had an external rotating arm that was used to find home for the heads - you could watch it move when it seeked!


----------



## Rollergold

A ghettoish fan mount


and one for my EK D5 X-Top


Yes the 90 degree angle fitting lays on top of the video card. I put a loop piece of hook and loop over the fiting so I don't short out the card


----------



## Anthropolis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> Heh, I had an Apple Hard Disk 20SC back in the day. it had an external rotating arm that was used to find home for the heads - you could watch it move when it seeked!


Reminds me of this pic lol. And really, I am so thankful we don't have the master/slave jumpers anymore hah, cuz how often did that "cable select" jumper ever work right


----------



## SandyBridge

XD.. I think you should hang a sign next to your computer saying "No food is allowed in this area" haha


----------



## Panorama

A PSU and HDD mount for those lazy at 330am

Got tired of always waiting for parts so just chucked everything in for a test run


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panorama*
> 
> 
> A PSU and HDD mount for those lazy at 330am
> 
> Got tired of always waiting for parts so just chucked everything in for a test run


Very clean setup. What is the name of the desk?


----------



## Panorama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Very clean setup. What is the name of the desk?


Doesn't have one, its just been a personal project of mine.
The desk is practically done but I just have problems sourcing the right water cooling parts to Australia :s


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panorama*
> 
> Doesn't have one, its just been a personal project of mine.
> The desk is practically done but I just have problems sourcing the right water cooling parts to Australia :s


try the cool room or ask the rest of up from Australia in the hot tub


----------



## Anthropolis

Panorama that desk is awesome. Is that a Lian Li motherboard tray? I've been thinking of building a desk and using one.


----------



## Panorama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anthropolis*
> 
> Panorama that desk is awesome. Is that a Lian Li motherboard tray? I've been thinking of building a desk and using one.


Thanks







its still very much a work in progress. Can't get it done until I get some parts in. The actual part where the PC is will be much cleaner. I'm thinking of posting a log I've kept when I'm done.

Yea it is a lianli tray. Heaps useful.
Do it, making the desk was miles of fun


----------



## Sweetie Bot

This actually works surprisingly well.

(GTX 480 + H70 + Zipties)


----------



## Ziglez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweetie Bot*
> 
> This actually works surprisingly well.
> 
> (GTX 480 + H70 + Zipties)


That is beautiful...


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I would tell you that there are brackets designed for that, but those cost money and I think you have everything covered.


----------



## Anthropolis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I would tell you that there are brackets designed for that, but those cost money and I think you have everything covered.


Haha literally covered in white zipties. It is ghetto fabulous but I've seen that type of rigging work well. But hey, want me to mail you some black zipties at least?


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweetie Bot*
> 
> This actually works surprisingly well.
> 
> (GTX 480 + H70 + Zipties)


*cough*Kraken*cough*


----------



## Ziglez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> *cough*Kraken*cough*


Tbh, idk which one looks better







.


----------



## .theMetal

One of my favorite threads









And just so I can fit in:




I electrical taped a string of bitfenix case led's to the back of my screen. I took a baby monitor wall adapter and wired in a molex for power.

Anyways I ended up taking them off because the little board they attached to got too hot for my comfort, I think I had a bit too much power going to the board. they were super bright though


----------



## Sweetie Bot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anthropolis*
> 
> Haha literally covered in white zipties. It is ghetto fabulous but I've seen that type of rigging work well. But hey, want me to mail you some black zipties at least?


I had some short black zipties that I was going to use to try to attach it like _this guy_ but my zipties were to big to fit through the mounting holes, So I ended up getting those longer white ones to wrap around.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panorama*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A PSU and HDD mount for those lazy at 330am
> 
> Got tired of always waiting for parts so just chucked everything in for a test run


That actually looks good. Stealthy looking with the top on. Thought the wooden piece above it was a cover.


----------



## Panorama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That actually looks good. Stealthy looking with the top on. Thought the wooden piece above it was a cover.


The wooden piece on top is for a res mount as well as some temp sensors on the front with a power switch.

Currently I'm starting it with a screw driver


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panorama*
> 
> ...Currently I'm starting it with a screw driver


Now, _that_ is ghetto!


----------



## Ziglez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panorama*
> 
> The wooden piece on top is for a res mount as well as some temp sensors on the front with a power switch.
> 
> Currently I'm starting it with a screw driver


I remember when i used to short those 2 pins with a screwdriver, before motherboards had power and reset switches on them.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziglez*
> 
> I remember when i used to short those 2 pins with a screwdriver, before motherboards had power and reset switches on them.


Friend had starbutton outside the case, but then switch get broken, and then he had ounly cable's

and then he started computer like carstealer, from cable's


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Now, _that_ is ghetto!


That's not actually that ghetto as it was the only way to really turn on a computer back when they didn't have power buttons built onto the board and you didn't have a button to hook up to it.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> *cough*Kraken*cough*


Cool if its laying flat on the gpu.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Case for my "shelf" build is much too small

 

Only place it would fit is in the 5.25" bays



Top 120mm didn't quite make it, ram in the way, cpu power in the way. The rear 120mm barely fit.



Not really ghetto but single 2.5" bay quickly become two by screwing drives in vertically rather than horizontally









Looks like I can fit few more in there now, just need to tap some holes for the screws.


----------



## DaveLT

Is that a CM Elite?


----------



## PR-Imagery

Thermaltake V4 BE


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

guys I got a messed up mid size tower in terrible condition decided to make a cheap case out of MDF.... i used what i can find old screws rusty hinges .... turning it into a car pc project.. to me lol it's ghetto will post more picts as time goes by


----------



## Roxycon

Someone needs to clean their setup


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Thermaltake V4 BE


Why didn't I guess from the red locking knobs


----------



## Anthropolis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> guys I got a messed up mid size tower in terrible condition decided to make a cheap case out of MDF.... i used what i can find old screws rusty hinges .... turning it into a car pc project.. to me lol it's ghetto will post more picts as time goes by


I like the creativity but bro that is wayyy to bulky for a carputer haha!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anthropolis*
> 
> I like the creativity but bro that is wayyy to bulky for a carputer haha!


If it used a SSD it can double as a sub!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> guys I got a messed up mid size tower in terrible condition decided to make a cheap case out of MDF.... i used what i can find old screws rusty hinges .... turning it into a car pc project.. to me lol it's ghetto will post more picts as time goes by
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

LOL ninja what sup bro XD ...


----------



## djthrottleboi

So i have been asked to post this here lol so here's a pic of my ghetto mod



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











its been below 0 for over a month lol this is the rig in sig


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> So i have been asked to post this here lol so here's a pic of my ghetto mod
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its been below 0 for over a month lol this is the rig in sig


thx









Is that vent/shroud connected to your window or something?


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> thx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that vent/shroud connected to your window or something?


yes i have boxes and pieces of a drawer in the blanket and sheet to let the air in the window flow dierectly into the radiator with btw has a pushpush/none setup and that is duct-taped together for lack of screws


----------



## GhettoFied

For just a minute I almost wanted to go out an buy a proper case, like a bitfenix prodigy m. But then I remembered that I would be breaking part of my own personal code of conduct; to have ghetto electronics. Ghetto for life! Well most of life. Lol. When I have the monies I'll probably get a prodigy.
Edit: But it will still be ghetto. It will be the ghetto prodigy, born to wreak havoc upon the masses.


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> For just a minute I almost wanted to go out an buy a proper case, like a bitfenix prodigy m. But then I remembered that I would be breaking part of my own personal code of conduct; to have ghetto electronics. Ghetto for life! Well most of life. Lol. When I have the monies I'll probably get a prodigy.
> Edit: But it will still be ghetto. It will be the ghetto prodigy, born to wreak havoc upon the masses.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*


Uhmmm could you not? Din't think I really wanted to see that... lol


----------



## Roxycon

Finally someone linked the case to the band


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Finally someone linked the case to the band


Thats the prodigy's singer? Im scared


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Thats the prodigy's singer? Im scared


Yes, he is truly awesome







at least he was when their music was my cup of tea


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Yes, he is truly awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at least he was when their music was my cup of tea


their music will always be my cup of tea

well unless they go pop


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> their music will always be my cup of tea
> 
> well unless they go pop


Theyll eventuly come back to my speakers given the frequency i grow tired of a band and music style







currently loving my chillstep collection


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> their music will always be my cup of tea
> 
> well unless they go pop












love their old tracks the most


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love their old tracks the most


that was innovation lol


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> their music will always be my cup of tea
> 
> well unless they go pop


your a twisted firestarter


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> your a twisted firestarter


that i am and i smack mah b*%#% up


----------



## Anthropolis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> love their old tracks the most


I've always loved Prodigy, but I do like the older stuff better, like Jilted Generation. Them and FSOL!


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anthropolis*
> 
> I've always loved Prodigy, but I do like the older stuff better, like Jilted Generation. Them and FSOL!







you have to admint was one of the best videos ever. too bad mtv banned it.


----------



## GhettoFied

So im going to be getting a sub to put in my car soon, and I decided to make some wiring for the amp at school today. Its two computer power cords spliced together. Hope my car dosnt catch on fire.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Safety standards? What are those?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Safety standards? What are those?


This is the right kind of thinking. This should just be the Carpe Diem thread.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

MFW you used duct tape instead if electrical tape.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> MFW you used duct tape instead if electrical tape.


he gotta be black rofl black people only use duct tape.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Not really... I mean im pretty freakin white and I use duct tape


then you black too rofl duct tape FTW


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Er no?
> 
> I've definitely used duct tape quite a bit. It is good for building stuff, just not wires.


are you guys all forgetting the black stereotype joke. c'mon live a little and jump in and laugh. I do believe this is the ghetto of ocn nation. besides wierdly it is true i grew up using duct tape for everything hell used duct tape to patch clothes rofl. they were for construction when i was a teen


----------



## Blooddrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> So im going to be getting a sub to put in my car soon, and I decided to make some wiring for the amp at school today. Its two computer power cords spliced together. Hope my car dosnt catch on fire.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now sleeve your cables in duct tape.


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blooddrunk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> So im going to be getting a sub to put in my car soon, and I decided to make some wiring for the amp at school today. Its two computer power cords spliced together. Hope my car dosnt catch on fire.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now sleeve your cables in duct tape.
Click to expand...

_sleeve_


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Safety standards? What are those?


Everything is safe until proven otherwise


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deni*
> 
> Everything is safe until proven otherwise


usually after its proven otherwise its still safe


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Er no?
> 
> I've definitely used duct tape quite a bit. It is good for building stuff, just not wires.


Dont whine
it's still better than what i used with wires, craft tape

duck tape is pretty good tape some wires i would say


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Dont whine
> it's still better than what i used with wires, craft tape
> 
> duck tape is pretty good tape some wires i would say


duct tape is semi conductive.. so no.. it would not be good for wrapping wires... if you need to wrap your wires.. go get the vinyl electrical tape... it comes in different colors.. usually the different colors are used for something specific.. but if you are just wrapping wires.. choose whatever color matches your build..

trust me.. I'm an instrument electrician

and what would be even better.. is to go get you some wirenuts.. probably blue, or orange (the color depends on the size) and then you could safely use freakin duct tape to tape it up... but if you cannot get ahold of any wirenuts or dont know what i am talking about... just go buy some super33+ black vinyl electrical tape.. its like $5 and will save you headaches in the future... even if you never have an issue with conductivity from the ducttape.. when you try to remove it.. it will ruin the wires..


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> duct tape is semi conductive.. so no.. it would not be good for wrapping wires... if you need to wrap your wires.. go get the vinyl electrical tape... it comes in different colors.. usually the different colors are used for something specific.. but if you are just wrapping wires.. choose whatever color matches your build..
> 
> trust me.. I'm an instrument electrician


and i'm information and communication technologies student on year 2 (2 year of 3)
buut... i have made allmost 2 year electrical installations on my school...

ceiling lamp installation is good way to study computer stuff...

so.. I really know what i'm doing







(and one of my teacher's was terrified what i do on my own time







)

so, dont worry about me


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> and i'm information and communication technologies student on year 2 (2 year of 3)
> buut... i have made allmost 2 year electrical installations on my school...
> 
> ceiling lamp installation is good way to study computer stuff...
> 
> so.. I really know what i'm doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and one of my teacher's was terrified what i do on my own time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> so, dont worry about me


And i'm uneducated but i love to experiment. duct tape will be fine its not like you are applying it to bare wire. i use it with wires all the time unless they are bare.


----------



## GhettoFied

Hey guys, as promised here are some pics of the restoration of my Gameboy SP AGS-101. Casing came in the mail today, took 11 days from china, which is pretty fast! Rebuild took like an hour to get everything perfect, lots of small parts. Unfortunately I didn't take pics of rebuild process because I was using my phone to watch a tutorial on how to do it. Sorry it isnt ghetto at all, but I figured some of you guys would want to see it. Also the game in it is an EZ Flash IV for those of you who have any knowledge of the flash cart world.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

My brother had one of those gamerboy sp's. It would still turn on even after not being charged for 5 years, I kid you not. Probably would still turn on.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That's the magic of lithium batteries. I more-or-less killed my SP's battery after way too many hours of use a few years back. Got three more from RadioShack for like $10. I think I'm set!


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> So im going to be getting a sub to put in my car soon, and I decided to make some wiring for the amp at school today. Its two computer power cords spliced together. Hope my car dosnt catch on fire.


Be careful a lot of duct tape is conductive.


----------



## OdinValk

THANK YOU! I only said that 6 hours ago... as an instrumentation electrician.. I cannot abide by using duct tape for this.. when a roll of vinyl phasing tape is only a few dollars.. and wont RUIN your components!... the name of the game is ghetto rigging.. not how can we screw up out PC components

but to each their own... cheers!


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> THANK YOU! I only said that 6 hours ago... as an instrumentation electrician.. I cannot abide by using duct tape for this.. when a roll of vinyl phasing tape is only a few dollars.. and wont RUIN your components!... the name of the game is ghetto rigging.. not how can we screw up out PC components
> 
> but to each their own... cheers!


but this is clearly not for a computer rofl. see below



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



So im going to be getting a sub to put in my car soon, and I decided to make some wiring for the amp at school today. Its two computer power cords spliced together. Hope my car dosnt catch on fire.



he already cut the wires


----------



## Erick Silver

Here you go guys. The following pics are what happens when your GTX560 SE GPU throws a few fan blades during the Chimp Challenge and the resulting repairs

The damage done


The first attempted repair. Yes Blue Duct Tape


The final repair before new cooler was bought. Thats 1x 80mm fan shroud ziptied to the cooler thats had part of the shrouding cut away to allow air out the side along the fins with a 2nd 80MM 4500RPM fan screwed on top.


I used this until I managed to get s Sapphire HD7950. Then bought a Accelero Twin Turbo II to put onto the card.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That's the magic of lithium batteries. I more-or-less killed my SP's battery after way too many hours of use a few years back. Got three more from RadioShack for like $10. I think I'm set!


You can also use an original Nintendo DS (not the Light model) battery. I have one as a backup.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> but this is clearly not for a computer rofl. see below
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So im going to be getting a sub to put in my car soon, and I decided to make some wiring for the amp at school today. Its two computer power cords spliced together. Hope my car dosnt catch on fire.
> 
> 
> he already cut the wires


Yea I saw that... same thing applies... maybe more so... an amp will push more power... but I suppose as long as you're not using it on bare wire... it should be OK... I still wouldn't risk it... but like I said... to each their own... be careful.. hope it works .....

More importantly... hope it doesn't start a fire


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Yea I saw that... same thing applies... maybe more so... an amp will push more power... but I suppose as long as you're not using it on bare wire... it should be OK... I still wouldn't risk it... but like I said... to each their own... be careful.. hope it works .....
> 
> More importantly... hope it doesn't start a fire


Thanks for the warnings guys, I'll make sure to cover it with some electrical tape!


----------



## Driftmonkey

So what do you do when your perspex top on your thermal take water cooler leaks beyond super glue repair? Super glue it some more ofcourse, and when it fails again. ,


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Get a 6mm piece of perspex....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






drill some holes, force the fittings in and let them tap themselves (couldn't find tap and die set) and wrap the fittings in thread tape to stop the leaks....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Better than new I think, can see the coolant flowing through better than before, may even slide a little LED in there for some epic effects.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> So what do you do when your perspex top on your thermal take water cooler leaks beyond super glue repair? Super glue it some more ofcourse, and when it fails again. ,
> 
> 
> Get a 6mm piece of perspex....
> 
> drill some holes, force the fittings in and let them tap themselves (couldn't find tap and die set) and wrap the fittings in thread tape to stop the leaks....
> 
> 
> Better than new I think, can see the coolant flowing through better than before, may even slide a little LED in there for some epic effects.


i see you might be using the swiftech additive.


----------



## Driftmonkey

Bottle of thermaltake coolant that came with the kit. good stuff actually. probably the only good thing about the kit hahah


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Bottle of thermaltake coolant that came with the kit. good stuff actually. probably the only good thing about the kit hahah


lol that one comes green too?


----------



## Driftmonkey

Yip, sure does. Well, sure _did_. Until most of it leaked everywhere (mobo, mosfets, gpu) and I diluted/topped it up with some distilled water. ㅋㅋㅋ


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Yip, sure does. Well, sure did. Until most of it leaked everywhere (mobo, mosfets, gpu) and I diluted/topped it up with some distilled water. ㅋㅋㅋ


lol ikr i do the distilled water mix too. i had did something where i had to take my loop apart and spilled half the mix so i got a diluted mix too rofl.


----------



## esponation

AMD heatsinks from a HP G6 server, on a 771 board. As long as I don't hit the rack it "shouldn't" go anywhere.


----------



## Ziglez

Idk if you would call this ghetto but here it is.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziglez*
> 
> Idk if you would call this ghetto but here it is.


your almost as bad as me hell glad i got rid of the 2nd power supply this is the old setup:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















and this is the new setup



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



:


----------



## Ziglez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> and this is the new setup
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> :


Haha, nothing better than having your equipment sit outside of your case


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziglez*
> 
> Haha, nothing better than having your equipment sit outside of your case


i know right. There's no case thats big enough for my parts. I'm thinking about putting my rig in a crate and running it from there i got to usb hubs one from a case and one that comes with the z77x-ud5h so i think it will be better.


----------



## Ziglez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> i know right. There's no case thats big enough for my parts. I'm thinking about putting my rig in a crate and running it from there i got to usb hubs one from a case and one that comes with the z77x-ud5h so i think it will be better.


It would be amazing, seeing someone come to a lan party with a crate.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ziglez*
> 
> It would be amazing, seeing someone come to a lan party with a crate.


i mine with my rig so i might as well check these out https://www.google.com/search?q=crate+rigs&client=ubuntu&hs=266&channel=fs&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=d675UtKtCqi4yAHIoYCwBw&ved=0CGEQsAQ&biw=1200&bih=706&dpr=1#channel=fs&q=crate+gaming+rigs&tbm=isch

mine would be like these. and i got the perfect mobo for it http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4440#ov

the power buttons and the reset switch plus the cmos reset switch would be so much easier to reach


----------



## Unknownm

These bus tickets (Vancouver, B.C Transit) and tape are the only thing keeping my card from overheating. If I remove, it will hit about 100c in BF4. With it on, 84c.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> These bus tickets (Vancouver, B.C Transit) and tape are the only thing keeping my card from overheating. If I remove, it will hit about 100c in BF4. With it on, 84c.


Genius! but why do you need 2 CF bridges for 2 cards?


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Genius! but why do you need 2 CF bridges for 2 cards?


amd CCC will not enable CF unless both of them are hooked up...


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> amd CCC will not enable CF unless both of them are hooked up...


I see many 7970 CFs with only 1 bridge ...


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I see many 7970 CFs with only 1 bridge ...


Okay? I understand because both are same GPU core, but still doesn't change anything. CF won't enable unless both are connected.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Crossfire is just wacky. I got into a state where I couldn't enable or disable at will without reinstalling CCC. No idea how. Technically you can run it with 0, 1, or 2 bridges but only the latter two will work well and for you only the final option will work at all.


----------



## Unknownm

CF isn't wacky. I hooked up one bridge to show you guys this. The drivers even says!

"Both Bridge Interconnects must be attached."


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That's new. That shouldn't actually have an effect on anything at all. A single crossfire or SLI bridge is plenty.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That's new. That shouldn't actually have an effect on anything at all. A single crossfire or SLI bridge is plenty.


it's been like that since I bought the cards... November. An't new to me









Sure one bridge is plenty! but I'm forced to run two. Like the picture shows, it won't enable unless both are connected.


----------



## Gereti

Ghetto or what?











My 6990 on my computer using pci-e x16 to x16 15cm riser


----------



## TheBrowno

Iis that 2 6970's making a 6990, or a 6990 with another card? I can't make tops or tails of that second picture.


----------



## PepeLapiu

My rads where too wide for my case.
I have a CaseLabs STH10 and I don't know what I was thinking when I calculated the rad sizes to buy for it.
In order to keep both rads in push/pull (UT60 and XT45), and have decent room between the rads for cabling, pipes, and ventilation, I had to build two boxes on the outside of the cade to allow the outside fans to stick out.

Here it is
There will be two rad chambers (top and bottom) and I'll need boxes like this on on both sides of both rad chambers.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> My rads where too wide for my case.
> I have a CaseLabs STH10 and I don't know what I was thinking when I calculated the rad sizes to buy for it.
> In order to keep both rads in push/pull (UT60 and XT45), and have decent room between the rads for cabling, pipes, and ventilation, I had to build two boxes on the outside of the cade to allow the outside fans to stick out.
> 
> Here it is
> There will be two rad chambers (top and bottom) and I'll need boxes like this on on both sides of both rad chambers.


'ts a lotta fans!!!! Nice mod, almost looks like it was put on by the factory. Temps/speeds?


----------



## Mr240sx

I wanted a blue power led on my phantom 410, but let the post speak for itself








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr240sx*
> 
> I liked the ghetto LED color change someone did a few pages back so I did it myself... but even more ghetto!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't find any blue film (I tried the blue part of a pepsi bottle's label, didn't turn out very well. So I put some blue sharpie on a clear plastic bag, cut the section out, doubled it up, and taped it on. It's actually a fair bit darker than the picture looks. Sorry crappy iPad camera.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> 'ts a lotta fans!!!! Nice mod, almost looks like it was put on by the factory. Temps/speeds?


Yup, 30 fans for the rads alone. All Gentle Typhoon 2150 rpm fans in push/pull.
I don't like fan controllers so I am getting a SPDT rocker swith to flip my rad fans between 12v full speed and 5v silent 950 rpm speed.
The pic doesn't do it justice. It does look like it came from the factory this way. The flat black paint matches perfectly.









Edit: I forgot to answer the temps question.
I don't know yet, still building it. I have a lot on my plate and it's a slow build.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Iis that 2 6970's making a 6990, or a 6990 with another card? I can't make tops or tails of that second picture.


You should read my signature from manhattan by night *rising from death*

1st card is: HIS Radeon 6970 with accelero mono
2nd card is: Gigabyte 6990 with accelero 6990 twin turbo connected to mobo via pci-e riser cable

So, i have 6970+6990 Trifire setup


----------



## TheBrowno

nice, jealous


----------



## GhettoFied

Made a hardwood monitor stand today for the monitor that I took the stand off to use on my 23". Used re-purposed wood from a shipping flat!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Made a hardwood monitor stand today for the monitor that I took the stand off to use on my 23". Used re-purposed wood from a shipping flat!


Sorry, that looks much too nice to be ghetto. All it needs is a bit of sanding, Maybe some stain, and a finish to look pro.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Sorry, that looks much too nice to be ghetto. All it needs is a bit of sanding, Maybe some stain, and a finish to look pro.


got a point there


----------



## MCCSolutions

I think my new desk build should find its way here in its current state lol:


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I think my new desk build should find its way here in its current state lol:


ok thats some ghetto ****.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> ok thats some ghetto ****.


Yea lol, looks bad because even when I did have it all set up I didnt take a picture. I had a QD fitting pop open and ruin the motherboard so im waiting on parts now lol

Here is the build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1467197/mccsolution-simple-desk-build-gigabyte-g1-sniper-5-delidded-intel-17-4770k-green-theme-nvidia-gtx-660-custom-parralel-wc#post_21785682


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Yea lol, looks bad because even when I did have it all set up I didnt take a picture. I had a QD fitting pop open and ruin the motherboard so im waiting on parts now lol
> 
> Here is the build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1467197/mccsolution-simple-desk-build-gigabyte-g1-sniper-5-delidded-intel-17-4770k-green-theme-nvidia-gtx-660-custom-parralel-wc#post_21785682


lol your better than me i would have just layed it on the table hoses and all and called it a open air case.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> lol your better than me i would have just layed it on the table hoses and all and called it a open air case.


Yea, its kind of funny because this whole thing started with me just taking old parts laying around and only spending one night mounting them on my desk simply, since I dont have a spare case and I figured with all the extra WC Parts and green stuff I have laying around it would be a breeze...... Well two days later and a extra $630 I now ordered a new Power supply, a i7 4770K, and a Gigabyte G1 Sniper 5 lol. And all this is going to be sitting on my desk....... Im probibly going to move the QDC fittings I have to the pump so that it can be easily transported when I move...... At least this whole system will be watercooled down to the PSU.... No dust here!


----------



## DaveLT

Behold the Ghetto and DIY solution to not spending 10$ on a shoggy sandwich made out of WD "packing material" and the ability to use it even if the pump is on a res











(The middle portion will be a somewhat thick silicon vibration dampener)


----------



## burticus

My new Kaveri A10-7850k setup. Yes, this special "OfficeMax" case is temporary.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Dude, I love the case!
How much.you want for it? LOL


----------



## djthrottleboi

graffiti is ghetto lol so let me tag the thread



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MCCSolutions

What level getto mite this be:

My Industrial Pump mounted in a watertight container with QDC Fittings and a PSI Gauge!


----------



## SirRobinII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> What level getto mite this be:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My Industrial Pump mounted in a watertight container with QDC Fittings and a PSI Gauge!


thats epic !


----------



## DaveLT

That pump can shift some water!







(With a flowrate of just under 4 D5







)


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirRobinII*
> 
> [/spoiler] thats epic !


Thanks!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> That pump can shift some water!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (With a flowrate of just under 4 D5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yea, 230watts @ a constant 80 Leters an hour and a 7 Meter Head all for my double parallel Trippe Loop. Water Cooling everything down to the PSU! The best thing about it is it runs at 110v as well(Shown in PIC) which makes it super quiet @ 4PSI so its like I have low and HI when I plug it into 220v it moves alot of coolant and its still pretty quiet. Its rated for 24/7 at 220v. Its self priming so I can completely empty the loops if I want to change coolant or strain it in a matter of a minute.









If you were ever interested in a similar setup I suggest using the Flojet 12v 03526-144, its a self primming pump desined to run water systems on RVs. It works really well at 5v and is super quiet, I used it on my "FATAL" Build:


----------



## burticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, 230watts @ a constant 80 Leters an hour and a 7 Meter Head all for my double parallel Trippe Loop. Water Cooling everything down to the PSU! The best thing about it is it runs at 110v as well(Shown in PIC) which makes it super quiet @ 4PSI so its like I have low and HI when I plug it into 220v it moves alot of coolant and its still pretty quiet. Its rated for 24/7 at 220v. Its self priming so I can completely empty the loops if I want to change coolant or strain it in a matter of a minute.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you were ever interested in a similar setup I suggest using the Flojet 12v 03526-144, its a self primming pump desined to run water systems on RVs. It works really well at 5v and is super quiet, I used it on my "FATAL" Build:


Um, that is anything but ghetto. That is kick ass... and it does not belong here.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Sorry, that looks much too nice to be ghetto. All it needs is a bit of sanding, Maybe some stain, and a finish to look pro.


Took your advice, stained and painted it. It was actually already sanded on the top. Also, my dad scratched the screen up really bad when it was in the footwell of my car and he accidentally put his feet on it, so I removed the matte film on the LCD that was scratched. Soaked it with wet paper towels on top for 6 hours, peeled it off (thankfully polarizer didn't come with it) and took half an hour scrubbing off the adhesive from the screen with olive oil. Used rustoleum pain plus primer gloss black. Overall I really love the look, glad I finished it.
Also sorry I'm not a terribly good photographer haha


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Took your advice, stained and painted it. It was actually already sanded on the top. Also, my dad scratched the screen up really bad when it was in the footwell of my car and he accidentally put his feet on it, so I removed the matte film on the LCD that was scratched. Soaked it with wet paper towels on top for 6 hours, peeled it off (thankfully polarizer didn't come with it) and took half an hour scrubbing off the adhesive from the screen with olive oil. Used rustoleum pain plus primer gloss black. Overall I really love the look, glad I finished it.
> Also sorry I'm not a terribly good photographer haha


awesome dude.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> Um, that is anything but ghetto. That is kick ass... and it does not belong here.


rofl


----------



## ccRicers

That's a nice de-bezeled monitor.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> That's a nice de-bezeled monitor.


Thanks dude, considering giving the treatment to my LG 23" daily driver, but the bezel is more integral to the stand, so I would have to custom make another one.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Fiber-glassed Skull Mask








And Plexi side panel window w/ automotive U-groove trim


----------



## mrinfinit3

Home built Chiller:


----------



## iCrap

Ghetto fan replacement


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Stock coolers have a use?! Wow! Who would have thought?







A bit of sanding and painting and that would look really classy.


----------



## iCrap

I'm gonna have to find a better solution. 84c at full load... not bad but not great either


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I'm gonna have to find a better solution. 84c at full load... not bad but not great either


well it is a stock cooler lol get 2 92mm fans and set them together so that they push tons of air down on the card


----------



## zenn84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I'm gonna have to find a better solution. 84c at full load... not bad but not great either


What if you switch the fan around so it takes in air, instead of blowing out.


----------



## xlastshotx

Current PC/Watercooling setup:



No VESA Mount?



Nothing taking apart a monitor and cutting some holes cant fix


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> What if you switch the fan around so it takes in air, instead of blowing out.


Being an Intel stock fan it's already blowing in


----------



## iCrap

^^ Yeah the intel stock fans blow downwards / into the heatsink.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*
> 
> Current PC/Watercooling setup:
> 
> 
> 
> No VESA Mount?
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing taking apart a monitor and cutting some holes cant fix


...what am i looking at here...how did it get so ghetto???lol


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I'm gonna have to find a better solution. 84c at full load... not bad but not great either


You can remove the plastic cover and use 2 80mm or 1 120mm fans, some zip ties and should be good.

Also change the thermal paste for a better one and re sit that cooler using the rice grain method.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xlastshotx*
> 
> Current PC/Watercooling setup:
> 
> 
> 
> No VESA Mount?
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing taking apart a monitor and cutting some holes cant fix


Any more info on those speakers? They look pretty sweet.


----------



## djthrottleboi

just saying we had more than enough. atlanta shuts down for 2 inches and they say 33F is cold we been below 0 for so long


----------



## gunzkevin1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just saying we had more than enough. atlanta shuts down for 2 inches and they say 33F is cold we been below 0 for so long


I have lived in Chattanooga TN for the last year, and lived in Minnesota, and Michigan for the 20 years before, so I know snow and cold weather. But, the difference between down here, and up north is, the lack of preparedness.
In MN when we even heard there would be a flake falling, there would be plows out on the roads with salt laid down and plowing 24/7. Here, there is no such system. The few inches we got stuck, and turned to ice. Also, driving ability plays a little roll but even I couldn't make it up some of the hills/mountains we have here in my 4wd.
Not sure what your post had to do with gheto rigging, but I thought I would defend my fellow man.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunzkevin1*
> 
> I have lived in Chattanooga TN for the last year, and lived in Minnesota, and Michigan for the 20 years before, so I know snow and cold weather. But, the difference between down here, and up north is, the lack of preparedness.
> In MN when we even heard there would be a flake falling, there would be plows out on the roads with salt laid down and plowing 24/7. Here, there is no such system. The few inches we got stuck, and turned to ice. Also, driving ability plays a little roll but even I couldn't make it up some of the hills/mountains we have here in my 4wd.
> Not sure what your post had to do with gheto rigging, but I thought I would defend my fellow man.


i had to do with a ghetto pic that is soon to be my background and to say this there is no excuse if the big cities did not get prepared after the first storm hit as there are tons of people with trucks down there its not that hard to say ok lets get ready to take care of this. Point being if its that bad where a few inches makes the city shut down then why not pay people with trucks to handle the mess. here you guys got trucks and plows here's a hundred bucks help keep the streets clean. But back to my post the pic is why i posted lol i do not really care what goes on down south as again we are getting almost a foot of snow every storm that passes through so i have my own shoveling to do. no offense meant i'm just blunt and i'm sick plus its almost 4 am


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just saying we had more than enough. atlanta shuts down for 2 inches and they say 33F is cold we been below 0 for so long


You're in Atlanta too? Same here, the snow shenanigans were pretty freaking stupid. Our governor needs some "attention".


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Any more info on those speakers? They look pretty sweet.


They look like Sony SS-MB300H with some paint or something on the front.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> You're in Atlanta too? Same here, the snow shenanigans were pretty freaking stupid. Our governor needs some "attention".


we were supposed to go on a trip down there but they shutdown the airport because of the snow.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> we were supposed to go on a trip down there but they shutdown the airport because of the snow.


They'll shut it down if it's like 32 degrees and a single cloud is in the sky. People here don't winter very well.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> They'll shut it down if it's like 32 degrees and a single cloud is in the sky. People here don't winter very well.


i wondeer what they would say to see me outside in a tshirt


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> i wondeer what they would say to see me outside in a tshirt


This thread is wondering off but I have to say it's funny what's happening in the states because I'm from South Carolina originally now I'm in South Korea and I'm use to the cold weather here but it has been warmer than normal all the while back home people are getting a record cold lol its like we switched!


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> This thread is wondering off but I have to say it's funny what's happening in the states because I'm from South Carolina originally now I'm in South Korea and I'm use to the cold weather here but it has been warmer than normal all the while back home people are getting a record cold lol its like we switched!


lol freakish thing that and very possible.


----------



## nX3NTY

My graphics card was sagging badly before, this is how bad it was



I haven't got anything long enough to support the card in it's place, so I need to get creative. My Nexus 5 case plus old Moto Milestone 2 hard case is a perfect length to support it







Overkill 120mm fan on the VRM couldn't hurt too


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> My graphics card was sagging badly before, this is how bad it was
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't got anything long enough to support the card in it's place, so I need to get creative. My Nexus 5 case plus old Moto Milestone 2 hard case is a perfect length to support it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overkill 120mm fan on the VRM couldn't hurt too


lol wicked and mum told me cell phones were bad for us.


----------



## one4hope

that cpu cooler looks pretty rough


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *one4hope*
> 
> that cpu cooler looks pretty rough


It's oxidized, it's shining before but with oily fingers makes it went like that, can't be bothered to clean it


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> My graphics card was sagging badly before, this is how bad it was
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't got anything long enough to support the card in it's place, so I need to get creative. My Nexus 5 case plus old Moto Milestone 2 hard case is a perfect length to support it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overkill 120mm fan on the VRM couldn't hurt too






I just wanted to post a very similar thing, but you beat me to it








My roommate's PC failed unexpectedly and we had to improvise a new one out of whatever we had lying around. Since his old one was an HP prebuilt and couldn\t fit a mATX MB we had to modify an old 90's server case. After saying hi to the dremel the slide-in-and-out MB fitting worked fine. However, there was nothing to attach the PCIe cards to. The GTX 550 Ti I donated him was really putting a strain on the MB though. Solution: after some looking around we found a glass that fitted under it nearly perfectly. We just added th 2 extra pins from the 6+2 connector between the glass and the card and it was perfect. No problem whatsoever.


Sorry for the awful quality, my phone cam sucks


----------



## lowguppy

I used one of the punch-out slot covers from the back of my case to prop up the video card in my old case. That was just an old Sapphire 4850 too, not one of of the newer monsters with heat pipes and such.

When I was in high school, I definitely saw a teacher duct tape a second HDD to a scrap of 2x4 inside a case.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

I had to make some Hard Drive mounts in my 3^hand PC...so I came up with this, to reduce noise/vibrations and even the temperatures dropped down pretty well:

8 rings screwed directly into the wood, with an elastic rope going through each one













It allows you to mount both 3,5'' and 2,5'' drives, here a small Hitachi 2,5'' hard drive:



Here you can see how the mounting holes are placed, and the rope without and with the drive mounted:



Cheers!!


----------



## one4hope

Awesome. Very functional


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> I had to make some Hard Drive mounts in my 3^hand PC...so I came up with this, to reduce noise/vibrations and even the temperatures dropped down pretty well:
> 
> 8 rings screwed directly into the wood, with an elastic rope going through each one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It allows you to mount both 3,5'' and 2,5'' drives, here a small Hitachi 2,5'' hard drive:
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the mounting holes are placed, and the rope without and with the drive mounted:
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!!


crafty


----------



## MCCSolutions

*PRESENTING ANOTHER* MCCSolutions *GETTO LEVEL PRO PRODUCTION:* Debezeled 6144 X 1280 5 MON MAYHAM *Starring:* Electrical Tape and Hot glue!









*BEFORE*



*AFTER*


----------



## s3nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *PRESENTING ANOTHER* MCCSolutions *GETTO LEVEL PRO PRODUCTION:* Debezeled 6144 X 1280 5 MON MAYHAM *Starring:* Electrical Tape and Hot glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BEFORE*
> 
> 
> 
> *AFTER*


Holy









thats freaking awesome!!!


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

https://imageshack.com/i/0n63664101511754733064375j

https://imageshack.com/i/gi98051610151418966581437j


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Here's two that probably fit in here, both console related.


The first generation of XBOX 360's had a spot where a 3-pin fan header could be soldered to the board right by the CPU. So, I added an 80mm fan, cut the CPU heatsink to make it fit, and built ductwork for the CPU and GPU out of cardboard and electrical tape.
This is the only picture I have of the "Bandit Special". It died when it RROD'd for the third time and I warped the board with my heatgun while trying to reflow the GPU.


This one I still have. It's the Lego64. Fully functional.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/0n63664101511754733064375j
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/gi98051610151418966581437j


What are on earth are those? LOL. Can I have some explanation? Thanks.


----------



## incog

I thought this was the ghetto thread not the amazing mods made out of thin air thread lol. Some of this stuff is amazing


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> 
> This one I still have. It's the Lego64. Fully functional.


Can you build that with LDD and share the file? I'd love to build one myself.


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> What are on earth are those? LOL. Can I have some explanation? Thanks.


haha well the first one was my first ever build revised, was a fx 6300 with two hacked closed loop san ace liquid coolers($25 each at the time) I picked up new on ebay.

It was make for lga 775 but I fixed that issue haha, even had a custom res made from a garlic salt container which took me forever to get leak proof and man did that think stink like garlic haha, every time I changed the water or went near that thing thats all you could smell.

the second was my 150w pelt cooler after I upgraded my case and did a real loop, used a gpu water block and a second water block to try and cool my pc loop. ahha

kind of looked like this https://imageshack.com/i/0t46856010151402227516437j

only dropped my temps a hair but i didnt expect it to really do much since the rads would be dissipating all the cooling out. ended up turning this into a single bottle chiller haha


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

*@one4hope* & *@djthrottleboi*

Thanks









*@MCCSolutions*

Is possible to see something more ? Maybe some pictures with the screens turned on ??
Anyway it's amazing


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> *@one4hope* & *@djthrottleboi*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *@MCCSolutions*
> 
> Is possible to see something more ? Maybe some pictures with the screens turned on ??
> Anyway it's amazing


I will eventually, But im still working on this build. The Monitors all work but I did manage to put some lines in one by bumping its ribbon cable on accident but I will replace it eventually. Once I get my build simi-complete and all my graphics cards are in I can hook them all up at once and turn them on!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> *@one4hope* & *@djthrottleboi*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *@MCCSolutions*
> 
> Is possible to see something more ? Maybe some pictures with the screens turned on ??
> Anyway it's amazing


Here are pictures of the setup in its current state, I am custom fabricating back covers and bezels for them out of Black Onyx Plexi Glass, they should look sweet when finished! I also still need to mount my 8th monitor on top of them its a LG 1080P 20" LED Display....


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Here are pictures of the setup in its current state, I am custom fabricating back covers and bezels for them out of Black Onyx Plexi Glass, they should look sweet when finished! I also still need to mount my 8th monitor on top of them its a LG 1080P 20" LED Display....


Glad to see some more monitor hacking! Very nice. Wish I had some black acrylic like that!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Glad to see some more monitor hacking! Very nice. Wish I had some black acrylic like that!


Yea easy to find in Korea


----------



## GenoOCAU

*WARNING: PICTURES MAY CAUSE EYE BLEEDING...
*

Ghetto features:
1) Plastic clamps
2) Metal clamps
3) Cable monster
4) Floating (unmounted) D5 pump
5) 5x Different types of fans
6) 2x Different types of tubing
7) 3x Different types of fittings
8) Ek CSQ Ultra ugly circle reservoir
9) Silicon boob mousepad: Check
10) Free standing Radiators

It's all I can think of, feel free to add to my ghetto list.

ENJOY!


----------



## Blooddrunk

dat mousepad...


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Can you build that with LDD and share the file? I'd love to build one myself.


LDD? Yeah, I suppose I could - it's a hodge-podge of Lego I've had for years - only the top-most layer of grey strips is anything I bought special for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blooddrunk*
> 
> dat mousepad...


The roommate uses one of those oppai mousepads. Says it's super-comfy.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> Says it's super-comfy.


Yeah, I bet it is.


----------



## DaveLT

Dat asuna mousepad.


----------



## Ziglez

I love how you have 3 different types of fans on that rad as well lol.


----------



## GenoOCAU

I'm glad to represent Australia in the American ghetto rig olympics.

The only way I can top this build is if I use vegemite as TIM.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GenoOCAU*
> 
> I'm glad to represent Australia in the American ghetto rig olympics.
> 
> The only way I can top this build is if I use vegemite as TIM.


Or HP sauce







and/or bovril


----------



## mrinfinit3

I've got one for ya guys









240mm Fan mounted to a 26000 rpm Dremel motor


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Here are pictures of the setup in its current state, I am custom fabricating back covers and bezels for them out of Black Onyx Plexi Glass, they should look sweet when finished! I also still need to mount my 8th monitor on top of them its a LG 1080P 20" LED Display....


dude, I can see your pipe


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> dude, I can see your pipe


HA lol! Thats actually a SLI extention with a Bitspower T on one end and a Acrylic flow meter on the other lol.....







I wish lol but im in the military so drugs are a no-go!


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *PRESENTING ANOTHER* MCCSolutions *GETTO LEVEL PRO PRODUCTION:* Debezeled 6144 X 1280 5 MON MAYHAM *Starring:* Electrical Tape and Hot glue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *BEFORE*
> 
> 
> 
> *AFTER*


So awesome setup, seems almost bezeless.









What monitors are those?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> So awesome setup, seems almost bezeless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What monitors are those?


Thanks! And there old Gateway FPD1765 LCD monitors. It took alot of work to get them that way but its worth it! I like these because of the 4:3 Ratio, its actually better to me because I do more multitasking than gaming and having a webpage or office program on a 4:3 screen is way easier on the eyes oppose to a 16:9 widescreen. Although if you wanted to do this I would suggest getting a newer lot of monitors that are LED just because it would be easier since they have way less metal to remove and the edges are already thin on the LCD its self......


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I do like my 5:4 monitor for doing web browsing/research/whatever with LibreOffice on the 1080p monitor. Its text editor can fit two pages side-by-side on 1080p at 100% zoom. Different resolutions and especially aspect ratios have their uses.


----------



## incog

I'm looking into modding my case a bit but I don't want to stop using my computer. So I took everything out and put it on my desk. I think it might be worth a share:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




This pic was before I decided to also put a TY-150 right in front of the 7970 you see here. It actually dropped temperatures by a decent amount, got a couple °C right there.


7970 apparently won't hold up by itself, so I have two empty bottles of hobby paint holding it up. worked out so well I was wondering if the video card had been designed for it.


I realized as I was trying to turn everything on that I needed a power switch. lol. so I took it off my core 1000 and plugged it in.


no room on the desk for storage. then again, aren't drawers meant to store things? (look at first picture again)


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> I've got one for ya guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 240mm Fan mounted to a 26000 rpm Dremel motor


I've done the same with an 80mm fan. Have you run it yet? Looks like a finger getter for sure


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I've done the same with an 80mm fan. Have you run it yet? Looks like a finger getter for sure


I have to use exhaust pipe strap screwed into my workbench to hold it down while powered up....can't even hold the damned thing lol
Think I'm going to "ghetto" rig it into a home made A/C unit


----------



## ThisisSataaa

that thing looks like its more than a finger grabber that thing looks like it could take a hand or a limb!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThisisSataaa*
> 
> that thing looks like its more than a finger grabber that thing looks like it could take a hand or a limb!


Tell me about it lol! Ever had a Dremel 3000 or 4000 Get cought in your shirt while your using it?! Its like being trown in a washing machine or getting a titty twister from God!


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Tell me about it lol! Ever had a Dremel 3000 or 4000 Get cought in your shirt while your using it?! Its like being trown in a washing machine or getting a titty twister from God!


lol thats disturbing are you nippleless now? rofl


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> getting a titty twister from God!


Now that's sig worthy right there!


----------



## RnRollie

if you run that fan/dremel combo at full revs and the fan is slightly out of balance becuz a fly shat on one of the blades its gonna shatter and decapitate you !

I asume you've seen the 30000 RPM CD-disks "permanent eraser"?


----------



## Deni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> its gonna shatter and decapitate you !


Hope he makes a video ...


----------



## DaveLT

It won't have enough torque to spin at 30000rpm for such a big fan







Still, 8000rpm is more likely but San Ace's 8000rpm requires metal blades ... AND 81dB. Yeah. 81dB granted it's a 200 by 70mm fan though


----------



## Carniflex

There is a bit of tape and MDF plate plus some small wood screws












These are ipad 3 screens. In my mind it was a lot cleaner and awesome looking.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Made my own acrylic tube bridge out of a 12" Cold Cathode plastic tube, a Bitspower chrome compression fitting, a Bitspower T, a plastic G1/4" plug, glue, a green LED, and some heatshrink....


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> There is a bit of tape and MDF plate plus some small wood screws
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are ipad 3 screens. In my mind it was a lot cleaner and awesome looking.


WHOA. HOW DID YOU DO INPUTS TO THAT.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> WHOA. HOW DID YOU DO INPUTS TO THAT.


It's somewhere in this thread, which is kind of worklog for this screen mod: http://www.overclock.net/t/1389756/custom-screen-31-3600x1600-cost-250. (and the thread was started by a different person as well, so it's like a community worklog)


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> WHOA. HOW DID YOU DO INPUTS TO THAT.


The thread linked in the previous post has all the information. The eDP screens are relatively straightforward as you can actually drive them directly from any displayport output on a GFX card - the controller boards are mostly for converting DP cable into interface suitable for the ribbon cable on the screen and for driving back-light. LDVS interface screens are a bit trickier as far as I understand but if you find the right controller (usually from eBay) it should not be overwhelmingly hard either. For IPAD 3/4 screens there are several projects out there so you can order prebuilt controller without needing awesome soldering skills - that's the route I went. My controllers are the cheapest I could find, which when I ordered them last year were from abusemark shop from Japan, around ~35 EUR a piece. The controllers have some issues, as documented in that thread although note that abusemark shop has now a new revision of that controller so I do not know if the documented issues have been resolved in new revision or not. Mine are rev 0 basically as far as I understood.


----------



## ccRicers

I want to make this ghetto air conditioner eventually






Moreso for a possible mining rig. if I can turn the bucket sideways and cut holes in so the cards fit in exactly with their blowers facing down, they'd get a ton of air.


----------



## RnRollie

you know what happens when the ice in the bucket melts?... The humidity goes up... way up, ... i doubt your cards are gonna like that


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Dry Ice. It also puts out any electrical fires!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Dry Ice. It also puts out any electrical fires!


yeah, also almost no oxigene, so not very breathable


----------



## cptnighthawk666

liquid nitrogen...jj...lol


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

At least CO2 is heavier than air and sinks. N2 is somewhat lighter and will evaporate to face-level. Buckets of Dry Ice, fan pulling CO2 as it sublimates over the components, and then ducts running out of the room so you don't asphyxiate! Excellent idea, no? Maybe place the pellets over some mesh so the hot air rises, causes it to sublimate, and then makes it "fall" through a duct? Hmm...

On a less hypothetical note, be careful with compressed gas. O2 bursts into flame (see: _Apollo 1_), and CO2 and N2 displace the oxygen in the room. You'll be dead before you know what happens.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

A quick ghetto modding question: why is there metallic foil around the cables of my 3.5inch bay card reader's cable (connects to the MB via USB 2.0 socket) and if it is absolutely necessary and I have been dumb enough to take it off, could I just replace it with aluminium foil from the grocery store? I wanted to extend the card reader's cable to allow nicer cable management, but when I spliced it I saw the foil there. Now this project has been on halt for weeks.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> A quick ghetto modding question: why is there metallic foil around the cables of my 3.5inch bay card reader's cable (connects to the MB via USB 2.0 socket) and if it is absolutely necessary and I have been dumb enough to take it off, could I just replace it with aluminium foil from the grocery store? I wanted to extend the card reader's cable to allow nicer cable management, but when I spliced it I saw the foil there. Now this project has been on halt for weeks.


The foil is to shield the actual cable from possible interferences. You can test it without the shielding to check if it works

edit: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120412041615AAmydf9


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> I've got one for ya guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 240mm Fan mounted to a 26000 rpm Dremel motor


I'd probably advise against that. Those rpms can explode a cd muchless a fan.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> I'd probably advise against that. Those rpms can explode a cd muchless a fan.


It's not going to have much torque to spin a giant fan though.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> The foil is to shield the actual cable from possible interferences. You can test it without the shielding to check if it works
> 
> edit: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120412041615AAmydf9


That's what I guessed, cause I've seen the same thing on TV antenna cables, but thought I might confirm my beliefs. Back to soldering my extension.


----------



## one4hope

Not mine, just found it on YT


----------



## burticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I want to make this ghetto air conditioner eventually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moreso for a possible mining rig. if I can turn the bucket sideways and cut holes in so the cards fit in exactly with their blowers facing down, they'd get a ton of air.


That's actually pretty cool, wish I had thought of it 22 years ago when I lived in a house with no AC. Might come in handy this summer, my office gets pretty warm.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Fiber-glassed "Skull" to Front Panel







:









Should I re-paint it? Or keep it black?









Was bored and missed doing custom glass work.... lol

Also added a side window as the case came OEM with "mesh"


This was my "old" rig...now used for "back-up" and 3D media streaming to my TV's.
Sadly...My new rig isn't "ghetto" at all (too pretty to be ghetto)...need to add some "Ghetto-ness"









**Edit** Will be adding some "ghetto-ness of sorts very soon for you guys


----------



## mrinfinit3

Did this too:

We really get into Halloween around here








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> It's not going to have much torque to spin a giant fan though.


I see I'm going to have to post a Youtube vid arn't I? lol


----------



## RnRollie

Suggest you paint the skull using some Phosphorescent _Lightning Bug Glo-Juice_ ....








http://glowinc.com/
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Glow-in-the-Dark-Paint
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_paint

although... since it has to be ghetto... you'll have to scrape the Radium from some old watches and the like in order to create the powder for the paint


----------



## hell167

http://www.overclock.net/t/1470441/build-log-desk-build-done


----------



## Blooddrunk

Looks too well done to be ghetto.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hell167*
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1470441/build-log-desk-build-done


most def too pro to be ghetto


----------



## hell167

Haha, serious? I thought it doesn't look 1/2 as good as a lot of the builds I see... But Thank you. Was my first build like that ever...


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hell167*
> 
> Haha, serious? I thought it doesn't look 1/2 as good as a lot of the builds I see... But Thank you. Was my first build like that ever...


I dropped you a reply over on your build log regarding your coolant type.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Suggest you paint the skull using some Phosphorescent _Lightning Bug Glo-Juice_ ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://glowinc.com/
> http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Glow-in-the-Dark-Paint
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_paint
> 
> although... since it has to be ghetto... you'll have to scrape the Radium from some old watches and the like in order to create the powder for the paint


Will the old raver light sticks do the trick? LMAO


----------



## nX3NTY

Some people just don't know what 'ghetto' really means.

To refresh some people, THIS and THIS is what ghetto means. Cleanly-tucked-away-in-desk PC is NOT ghetto in a long shot


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Some people just don't know what 'ghetto' really means.
> 
> To refresh some people, THIS and THIS is what ghetto means. Cleanly-tucked-away-in-desk PC is NOT ghetto in a long shot


Actually..."Ghetto" could be anything "home-brewed".

It's about modding or building a working product while using as little funds as possible.
This is well demonstrated throughout this thread.
Hell167 has essentially built a PC enclosure out of "wood" by modifying an existing piece of furniture he had @ his home.
This 100% qualifies it for being in the thread. Just because he took the time to make it look "good", does not mean that it cannot belong here.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Actually..."Ghetto" could be anything "home-brewed".
> 
> It's about modding or building a working product while using as little funds as possible.
> This is well demonstrated throughout this thread.
> Hell167 has essentially built a PC enclosure out of "wood" by modifying an existing piece of furniture he had @ his home.
> This 100% qualifies it for being in the thread. Just because he took the time to make it look "good", does not mean that it cannot belong here.


of course this is given i was referencing the darkside of ghetto though. the type where you barely managed to make something to work like my vent i made. lol that fell apart and had to be reassembled every 2 days. plus it was super cold in my room. so i'm not knocking him or sayin its not ghetto in the sense of the word. i'm saying peanut butter with no jelly so we used butter ghetto(sounds nasty doesn't it? its really good other than the texture of the butter. i prefer the cinnamon and sugar on buttered toast that we called french toast more though.).


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> of course this is given i was referencing the darkside of ghetto though. the type where you barely managed to make something to work like my vent i made. lol that fell apart and had to be reassembled every 2 days. plus it was super cold in my room. so i'm not knocking him or sayin its not ghetto in the sense of the word. i'm saying peanut butter with no jelly so we used butter ghetto(sounds nasty doesn't it? its really good other than the texture of the butter. i prefer the cinnamon and sugar on buttered toast that we called french toast more though.).


Oh, I know what you meant by it.







and know ALL about "ghetto" lol as I just had to explain to my wife as to "why duct tape and superglue" were inside her roadside emergency kit lol
I come from the generation that started the liquid cooling fad... when we had to make our own blocks from scrap metal and old heatsinks (sealed with plexi-glass/aluminum, and a whole lot of hot glue/JB wield) Back then we used 12V in-line fuel pumps, Goodyear vacuum tubing, or threaded our own copper piping , with heater cores , transmission oil coolers, and old refrigerator parts. Anything we could get our hands on.... In fact my quad socket server STILL uses a 9"x 24" tranny cooler off an old Cummin's diesel engine and never breaks 20*C while folding. lol

My post was more referring to NX3NTY. As his response was damned near an insult to the poster... not cool.
(I could use "ghetto" terms and language as I am more than fluent







Though the Mods here have already warned me on several occasions over the years, so now my post replies read as if I'm a college professor







)

Talking about cheap though....did you ever get any responses/offers to your "trade" posts over on the NV forums?

**Edit**
Cinnamon + sugar toast is "frackin' " awesome


----------



## mrinfinit3

Wait till' you guys see my Ridged Acrylic tube rig using SLI fittings ($4ea) split apart. So essentially getting each ridged fitting for $2ea opposed to $9-$15 each.









You guys remember the scene in Blade II in the "blood bath" room with all the lil genetically engineered vampire babies... There was a "tube suction" chamber rite above the blood pool with a bunch of clear glass pipes formed in a "circle" configuration..... ya I'm building that.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Oh, I know what you meant by it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and know ALL about "ghetto" lol as I just had to explain to my wife as to "why duct tape and superglue" were inside her roadside emergency kit lol
> My post was more referring to NX3NTY. As his response was damned near an insult to the poster... not cool.
> (I could use "ghetto" terms and language as I am more than fluent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though the Mods here have already warned me on several occasions over the years, so now my post replies read as if I'm a college professor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Talking about cheap though....did you ever get any responses/offers to your "trade" posts over on the NV forums?
> 
> **Edit**
> Cinnamon + sugar toast is "frackin' " awesome


one guy mentioned something then the next day he came back and said he couldn't do it. i give up though as i wanted something good for once and the only way to get it will be to buy it. lol i only see the same 5 guys on there selling tons of different gpu's like they have a endless supply.


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Actually..."Ghetto" could be anything "home-brewed".
> 
> It's about modding or building a working product while using as little funds as possible.
> This is well demonstrated throughout this thread.
> Hell167 has essentially built a PC enclosure out of "wood" by modifying an existing piece of furniture he had @ his home.
> This 100% qualifies it for being in the thread. Just because he took the time to make it look "good", does not mean that it cannot belong here.


Home brewed is known by all as DIY, Do It Yourself. Ghetto is something you build cheaply or find lying around that are usable for temporary solution but somehow works better than intended









He is free to post here, I don't say it is wrong. I just saying it isn't ghetto enough to fit here. Something here is either to be laugh at or to be awe inspired by it's sheer weirdness. Just like this rock on top of HSF mod. That is the definition of ghetto right there
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> of course this is given i was referencing the darkside of ghetto though. the type where you barely managed to make something to work like my vent i made. lol that fell apart and had to be reassembled every 2 days. plus it was super cold in my room. so i'm not knocking him or sayin its not ghetto in the sense of the word. i'm saying peanut butter with no jelly so we used butter ghetto(sounds nasty doesn't it? its really good other than the texture of the butter. i prefer the cinnamon and sugar on buttered toast that we called french toast more though.).


LOL that me laugh


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Home brewed is known by all as DIY, Do It Yourself. Ghetto is something you build cheaply or find lying around that are usable for temporary solution but somehow works better than intended


You DO realize you just reiterated what I just posted rite?
Quote:


> Hell167 has essentially built a PC enclosure out of "wood" by modifying an existing piece of furniture he had @ his home.


Really; I would not try to attempt to give English definitions if English were not my 1st language.

Home brew is most definately NOT DIY.
DIY (aka Do It Yourself) is when a "novice" attempts to replicate a "professional's" work. IE: Installing your own brakes on a Car, building your own PC, topping off an AC's freon, building an audio amplifier from a "kit", Mounting your own Flat panel TV on the wall, or painting your own car/house. That's DIY...

Home Brew is working with what you have available in unconventional ways to create and/or modify. IE: installing peltiers in a way to actively cool the water loop within a swamp-cooler, Solar heating your home's water supply via several aluminum cans in series, Making your own PC fan filters using pantyhose or window screen, creating your own paints/dyes from various local plants, MOONSHINE! That's home Brew









Say you wanted to build a set of speakers for your home.....
1st thing you would purchase are a set of drivers which would compliment the amplifier you plan on using rite?
Now; if you were to build you set of speakers using traditional wood/MDF while purchasing a set of x-over's...this would be DIY
If you noticed you have a set of old lunchboxes laying around, and figured they'd make a "good" enclosure to meet your needs then grab a couple of old automotive coils to work as low-lass filters in your x-over...That's Home Brew.


----------



## nX3NTY

I don't like to this to get any longer. But you can read up from first couple of pages what ghetto means

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spritanium*
> 
> It's not ghetto unless it's done with duct tape.


----------



## mr soft

Less ghetto talk and more ghetto pics please, the skankier the better.

older pc I had, blow hole cut out with tin snips , fans sitting on HD


----------



## mrinfinit3

Top section of my 945 Stacker. (Just 2 of the "5" rads installed)
"Ghetto" rigged 7x fans to a grounding post strip then control them all with a 100w audio variable resistor:


----------



## NateRetro

My ghetto gaming computer, I used parts that I had laying around, I didn't have another panel to cover the thingy that was missing, so I used masking tape to cover that up. and I have put a case siding on it since this photo, but hey beggars can't be choosers right? I love these beige cases so I got one out of the trash bin next door to use for this build.







Pretty cool huh?








notice the mouse


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Home brewed is known by all as DIY, Do It Yourself. Ghetto is something you build cheaply or find lying around that are usable for temporary solution but somehow works better than intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He is free to post here, I don't say it is wrong. I just saying it isn't ghetto enough to fit here. Something here is either to be laugh at or to be awe inspired by it's sheer weirdness. Just like this rock on top of HSF mod. That is the definition of ghetto right there
> LOL that me laugh


that shouldn't make you laugh some just have it hard growing up and thats ruff 

this stit serious


----------



## Gereti

Don't worry, i can handle this


no money to buy watertank, so i use my old aio cooler rad (what include filling hole)

but, not right size pipe for tubing so... have to make myself one, old micstand mic cable pipe+ ducktape, and then i fitted that on hole and adde some glue, let's see how that work

i have coming cuhler 620+ 2 rad for that, got those with cheap, maby 25€ price (2x120mm rad+cuhler 620 block)
more pick's here


http://imgur.com/a


----------



## djthrottleboi

cant afford the 900d? build a case.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















unfortunately the stores wont sell crates so i have 2 less crates which means until i get them i have extra stuff in the second crate which is supposed to be mobo and rads only.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

The pizza rolls were too hot.

Lid from an Ultra LS600 PSU, fan is a Nidec BetaV.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

How can you eat those?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

They're delicious? Well, the cheese ones are at least. If you get some heatpipes you could probably keep them warm too.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> that shouldn't make you laugh some just have it hard growing up and thats ruff
> 
> this stit serious


I made stuff like that growing up poor! Now I'm not so poor and I find I was happier in those days.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> I made stuff like that growing up poor! Now I'm not so poor and I find I was happier in those days.


agreed that life is simpler poor


----------



## burticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateRetro*
> 
> My ghetto gaming computer, I used parts that I had laying around, I didn't have another panel to cover the thingy that was missing, so I used masking tape to cover that up. and I have put a case siding on it since this photo, but hey beggars can't be choosers right? I love these beige cases so I got one out of the trash bin next door to use for this build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty cool huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> notice the mouse


Dude! Nice C64 and 1541 floppy drive! Fire that puppy up and play Defender of the Crown (one of my C64 fav's) or Ultima 4.


----------



## diesel678

Here's one for y'all: My *Professional* audio equipment:



Made with pantyhose, hot glue and a clothes hangar, LOL!

In the making shots:

Waiting for hot glue to dry, with a few helping hands


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Why use weights when you can use... onions?


----------



## hakz

^


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Why use weights when you can use... onions?


This legitimately made me laugh. Thank you for this!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

What? What's wrong with using onions for weights?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75




----------



## MCCSolutions

LMAO


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> Here's one for y'all: My *Professional* audio equipment:
> 
> 
> 
> Made with pantyhose, hot glue and a clothes hangar, LOL!
> 
> In the making shots:
> 
> Waiting for hot glue to dry, with a few helping hands


i prefer to use sweet potatoes as weights because onions make me cry.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> i prefer to use sweet potatoes as weights because onions make me cry.


Since I'm a heartless monster, I can use onions in cold blood and without remorse.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Since I'm a heartless monster, I can use onions in cold blood and without remorse.


You... you monster


----------



## s3nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> You... you monster


whats a pepole


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3nzftw*
> 
> whats a pepole


Dunno, ask from him who made that pic, i found it using google


----------



## Hrv123

Hers my current concept testing case, and so first (and hopefully the last







) ghetto case









http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Hrv123/media/OC Cases/WTT1_2a.jpg.html

http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Hrv123/media/OC Cases/WTT1_3a.jpg.html

http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Hrv123/media/OC Cases/WTT1_4a.jpg.html

http://s27.photobucket.com/user/Hrv123/media/OC Cases/WTT1_5a.jpg.html


----------



## hakz

nice wind tunnel. but that packing tape... ain't that prone to ESD?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> nice wind tunnel. but that packing tape... ain't that prone to ESD?


'Prolly. "Tis the ghetto way.


----------



## Hrv123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> nice wind tunnel. but that packing tape... ain't that prone to ESD?


Yup, but Im guessing as long there is some moisture in air (and it is, wet winter here) possible ESD is not concern. Im 99% certain...
At very dry and hot summer most likely that would be another story but by then I hope to have my case finished and everything in it grounded. This was testing rig to see how much cooling can get with that 30cm floor fan.


----------



## brandon88tube

I raise you my wind tunnel I posted a while ago. Here are some pics of when I updated it, but never posted pictures. If you want to see the other pictures, just search this thread or go to my profile because I don't think I should repost them.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brandon88tube*
> 
> I raise you my wind tunnel I posted a while ago. Here are some pics of when I updated it, but never posted pictures. If you want to see the other pictures, just search this thread or go to my profile because I don't think I should repost them.


use crates for your rig like me and you get temps 10-20C cooler. lol its my sig rig you can see i put milk crates also there is a pic or 2 on this thread. you need 3 or 4 crates but i only had 2.


----------



## Unfortunately

Well, clearly this is the thread i've been looking for. BTW this is "The Sawed Off" in my sig. Was a temporary solution that worked too well to abandon. CPU cools better in this arrangement than in a Rosewill Thor V2 case with the same cooler, just sayin.

This same rig also has this little gem of klugewerk, which has (i suspect) allowed it to survive a hefty 25% overclock 24/7 for the past year or so, in spite of being built on the absolute most failure-prone, never-OC-it-it'll-explode motherboard in the world.


----------



## 222Panther222

Reused my old xbox360 hdd, it was a pita removing the plastic shell without any torx.

It didn't detect so i thought it was because it's in Xfat format, then i switched the sata cable it didn't make any difference.

Finally it was the Sata ports, there were deactivated in the bios.

Anyway might try installing ubuntu on it just for fun.



Edit: 1337th post


----------



## CJRhoades

Welp, one of the fans on my Twin Frozr III 6950 started going bad awhile back. Out of warranty and not wanting to spend the cash on something like an Accelero cooler, I decided to ghetto rig it









Armed with a pair of 120mm case fans and some zip ties, here's what I came up with. Please forgive the cellphone cam.


























The result? Crazy looks and an 8C drop in load temps.


----------



## Unknownm

open case for now. Working on the side panels


----------



## Eddie Smurphy

So the C70 case did not arrive on time... but here's what I said to myself:
Quote:


> No case? No problem!


Grabbed the next best thing and built my own temporary case










Yes, that's a box of a 24 pack of Grolsch beer


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eddie Smurphy*
> 
> So the C70 case did not arrive on time... but here's what I said to myself:
> Grabbed the next best thing and built my own temporary case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's a box of a 24 pack of Grolsch beer


get milk crates then you wont need a case.















tons better airflow


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eddie Smurphy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So the C70 case did not arrive on time... but here's what I said to myself:
> Grabbed the next best thing and built my own temporary case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's a box of a 24 pack of Grolsch beer


Grolsch


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

CPU box as a stand for a dummy Waterblock. No time to bend acrylic, so it's what I had to do to close the loop and play TitanFall until the second card and new blocks arrive.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

i got this awesome box what should i do with it ??


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> i got this awesome box what should i do with it ??


Ln2 pot?


----------



## MrBiology

Due to some unexpected cat shenanigans I ran short on cash mid-build; I was able to get running on the stock intel cooler (yuck), but with no case cooling solution I had to improvise...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hrv123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBiology*
> 
> Due to some unexpected cat shenanigans I ran short on cash mid-build; I was able to get running on the stock intel cooler (yuck), but with no case cooling solution I had to improvise...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would kill to have access to such large floor fan (whit pointy ended blades right?) for doing what you did, they are so efficient for cooling. And yes, cats are evil mind control overmasters...

EDIT: But you my clear all that dust there, dust is an enemy and must be cleaned


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hrv123*
> 
> I would kill to have access to such large floor fan (whit pointy ended blades right?) for doing what you did, they are so efficient for cooling. And yes, cats are evil mind control overmasters...
> 
> EDIT: But you my clear all that dust there, dust is an enemy and must be cleaned


You may clean the dust but it will still be dust. dust must be removed.







(Sorry, couldn't resist!)


----------



## OdinValk

use a light flame thrower to remove dust.. just dont leave it too long in any one spot lol


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> use a light flame thrower to remove dust.. just dont leave it too long in any one spot lol


Somebody call?



Maybe try alcohol? The stuff evaporates quickly and does not leave a residue. I've tried it on my case fans before and it works pretty decently.


----------



## tmh351

winner


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Somebody call?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe try alcohol? The stuff evaporates quickly and does not leave a residue. I've tried it on my case fans before and it works pretty decently.


A flammenwerfer! In the Pacific theatre during WWII a USMC flame thrower had a life span of 8 minutes in combat. Damn. That would suck.


----------



## brandon88tube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Maybe try alcohol? The stuff evaporates quickly and does not leave a residue. I've tried it on my case fans before and it works pretty decently.


I think alcohol can damage some plastics, but don't quote me on that.


----------



## Unknownm

cleaned up the case little bit. Rad fans are now blowing air out instead of in. Adding fan to blow the air to both of my 280x make when playing bf4 on unlimited fps (100-120). It's packing but now least I can put the side cover back on..

Also added another front case fan, which blows the air to the other 80mm fan on the gpus.


----------



## GhettoFied

I've got another ghetto case coming up soon, just need to wait for the paint and stain to dry fully before I put components on it.


----------



## burticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> cleaned up the case little bit. Rad fans are now blowing air out instead of in. Adding fan to blow the air to both of my 280x make when playing bf4 on unlimited fps (100-120). It's packing but now least I can put the side cover back on..
> 
> Also added another front case fan, which blows the air to the other 80mm fan on the gpus.


How is this ghetto? Looks pretty standard to me. Unless you are using some banana peels as cable ties or something that I can't see.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> How is this ghetto? Looks pretty standard to me. Unless you are using some banana peels as cable ties or something that I can't see.


^^ pretty much


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> How is this ghetto? Looks pretty standard to me. Unless you are using some banana peels as cable ties or something that I can't see.


this^ lolz


----------



## RnRollie

Maybe there's some ducktape on the back that we cant see?


----------



## simsim44

I was thinking the yellow and the red tap/Velcro on the cooler lines.


----------



## Pawelr98

I was cleaning the radiators from dust. So just used shower to wash the rad and then used hair dryers to get rid of water.


Cable of the UV cathode was too short so I extended it a little.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I was cleaning the radiators from dust. So just used shower to wash the rad and then used hair dryers to get rid of water.
> 
> 
> Cable of the UV cathode was too short so I extended it a little.


Not really ghetto, just cleaning and some basic electronics. You did some soldering even.


----------



## hakz

ghetto mods where art thou


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> ghetto mods where art thou


Ok









Home brew Water pump:
Made from PowerAid bottle caps a Mtn Dew can, and a .99 cent motor


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home brew Water pump:
> Made from PowerAid bottle caps a Mtn Dew can, and a .99 cent motor


YES. I want to do that. Also I'll have pics up of my new ghetto case soon.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home brew Water pump:
> Made from PowerAid bottle caps a Mtn Dew can, and a .99 cent motor


im actually curious on how much water it can move.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> im actually curious on how much water it can move.


so am i.

that's one thing I've never done. make a water pump. though he just inspired me to try...


----------



## esqueue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> cleaned up the case little bit. Rad fans are now blowing air out instead of in. Adding fan to blow the air to both of my 280x make when playing bf4 on unlimited fps (100-120). It's packing but now least I can put the side cover back on..
> 
> Also added another front case fan, which blows the air to the other 80mm fan on the gpus.


There are many other topics made to show off normal cases. This isn't one of them.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azanimefan*
> 
> so am i.
> 
> that's one thing I've never done. make a water pump. though he just inspired me to try...


It was a fun hour project. Cool thing was finding all the lil parts laying around my workshop..
For example: The "impeller" is made from a "X" section left over from an old plastic model with strips of amulinum (from the mtn dew can) attached, and even JB weld wouldn't hold it on the shaft @ full RPM. So I went digging around and came up with using a syringe cap (am diabetic) which just so happen to fit over the shaft of the motor assem. Wedged the cap in there between the shaft and the impeller and melted it down with a torch lighter. It's like it's one piece now







To help prevent rust/ corrosion damage to the "magnetic" motor; I (pretty much) filled the motor with WD-40 then sealed it with 3M fish tank sealant (I use it when building res's/ plexi enclosures - So have tubes upon tubes of it) So was a bit of an adventure lol
I have pics of my reservoirs as well if you guys want to see those.
Flow rate seems GREAT... was actually shocked.... am currently running it a 7v in one of my smaller ponds (~500gal). Exiting the pump I have attached approx. 2m of 3/8"(10mm) ID tubing left over from another water cooling project at an incline of approx 3ft (lift) and I get about a 5 inch arch of water coming out. So not too bad at all. Could (and may) build an even better impeller, just to see what it can do.

*edit*
I put the lighter there in the pic to show actual size comparison, but forgot to mention that it's one of those 1/2 size mini lighters lol
Put it this way...the rivet in the pic is 1/16"


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

About home made pumps, I've already posted some pages ago my "experiments", for who is interested you can find them *HERE* , _post #2660_









Very good job *mrinfinit3*


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

I've been planning on getting a water loop on my rig as well. Only problem is, the parts are not cheap. Now you evil ghetto masterminds are starting to give me ideas... I even have an old 220V AC motor on my desk right now, that should give pretty nice flow rate.








Also, what a shame my dad's old Lada went to the scrapyard. The small rad under its dashboard would be just the right size.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> The small rad under its dashboard would be just the right size.


The heater core








Ah yes, that brings back memories








What work excellent as well is a condenser out of an old windows A/C unit.
My 4 socket server is liquid cooled using a transmission cooler (bought new) made for a 4.7L Cummin's and only cost me approx. $20USD @ my local parts store. The server is housed (pretty much) outdoors in a non air condition shed approx 75-100ft away from my shop and these lil' CPUs haven't been able to break ambient temp (which here in the desert is is hard to do).
When I was using aftermarket air cooling, I wasn't able to sustain system stability in this location for longer than a couple of hours.


----------



## 0493mike

Home at last oh lord I'm home at last. He he that is some fine getto work mrinfinit3. And now I just have to go back and see what HoFattoSoloCosi has cooked up. Thanks for these awesome posts guys.


----------



## NateRetro

Wow, some of these are ghetto. but my case is ghetto. I used the side panel from the other side of the old server case I picked up to cover the motherboard in that same case


----------



## Juliotech

Hi, this is my rig, before and after having a gaming case (Moded side panel window)


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juliotech*
> 
> Hi, this is my rig, before and after having a gaming case (Moded side panel window)


lol that is ghetto. i am lazy i took my side windows and put it on the crates.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

So I looted a Linux-friendly WiFi card from an old computer, but it needs a USB header to function. I'm all out. I ordered one, plugged everything in, and smelled smoke. 5 of the 7 capacitors had blown.







There goes that plan. I looked at my options. Apparently, the header from the NZXT Aperture M only uses half of a header. The WiFi card's cable uses the other half. IDEA TIME!



AH YESH!







Works as it is supposed to.


----------



## GhettoFied

Sorry this took so long to get up guys, honestly it's been because I had to go look for a USB cable for my phone that actually sends data. I charge it with a 10ft cable that wont do data.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Sorry this took so long to get up guys, honestly it's been because I had to go look for a USB cable for my phone that actually sends data. I charge it with a 10ft cable that wont do data.


makes me feel ashamed of my milk crates.


----------



## hakz

not ghetto for me. that looks good bdw


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> not ghetto for me. that looks good bdw


i wonder if he would sell that to me?


----------



## Hrv123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Sorry this took so long to get up guys, honestly it's been because I had to go look for a USB cable for my phone that actually sends data. I charge it with a 10ft cable that wont do data.


Im in love


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> i wonder if he would sell that to me?


Haha no way! Everything stays super cool under load, GPU max in BF4 is 65c, and CPU is low 60s. Super quiet too, since there are no case fans. Really enjoyed making it, love using the shop at our school, they open it on the weekends sometimes and that's where I make this stuff from wood. Same paint and stain as the monitor I made, my phone decided it wanted to go crazy with the white balance. Thanks for all the feedback and comments guys, I really appreciate it. That's what keeps me making this stuff, and really shows how good of a community we have. I want to make some custom cabinets next (whatever the speaker box thing is called) and swap the speakers into them.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hrv123*
> 
> Im in love


Thanks dude!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> not ghetto for me. that looks good bdw


I guess it isn't really "ghetto" by the typical sense







, maybe just "DIY"


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Haha no way! Everything stays super cool under load, GPU max in BF4 is 65c, and CPU is low 60s. Super quiet too, since there are no case fans. Really enjoyed making it, love using the shop at our school, they open it on the weekends sometimes and that's where I make this stuff from wood. Same paint and stain as the monitor I made, my phone decided it wanted to go crazy with the white balance. Thanks for all the feedback and comments guys, I really appreciate it. That's what keeps me making this stuff, and really shows how good of a community we have. I want to make some custom cabinets next (whatever the speaker box thing is called) and swap the speakers into them.


lol i had to try.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home brew Water pump:
> Made from PowerAid bottle caps a Mtn Dew can, and a .99 cent motor


Frigging sweet. This is awesome.


----------



## OdinValk

that would/should be easy to build and fairly cheap.. just got get you a couple 10ft 2x4s and some wood screws... chop the 2x4 down to whatever size/length you need and sand down the edges.. hell stain it.. give it a nice wood color...


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Sorry this took so long to get up guys, honestly it's been because I had to go look for a USB cable for my phone that actually sends data. I charge it with a 10ft cable that wont do data.


I was wondering what happened to that firewood carrying rack I made in middle school. Looks like you snatched it from my parents' house and converted it into a case.








Don't worry , I'm not mad, you put it to good use.


----------



## Alatar

My 750Ti coupled with a stock cooler from one of my FX 8-cores:


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That... That must be a lie! A stock cooler with heatpipes?!







I'd be careful with the rubber bands. More zip ties seem like the better option.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> My 750Ti coupled with a stock cooler from one of my FX 8-cores:


Very nice. I was going to do the exact same thing with my 6670 a while ago but never did. I use that heatsink as a coaster on my desk now, not kidding lol. My brother uses a 212 Evo as a coaster too.
Edit: forgot to ask, clock speeds?


----------



## Alatar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That... That must be a lie! A stock cooler with heatpipes?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd be careful with the rubber bands. More zip ties seem like the better option.


Rubber bands are just fine







I always use them during DICE runs. Excellent for attaching paper towels to your GPU. And the HS is pretty light.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Very nice. I was going to do the exact same thing with my 6670 a while ago but never did. I use that heatsink as a coaster on my desk now, not kidding lol. My brother uses a 212 Evo as a coaster too.
> Edit: forgot to ask, clock speeds?


1448MHz core with 1.16v









My memory clocks pretty badly though so all in all it's a mediocre 750Ti even if the core clocks are fine.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> that would/should be easy to build and fairly cheap.. just got get you a couple 10ft 2x4s and some wood screws... chop the 2x4 down to whatever size/length you need and sand down the edges.. hell stain it.. give it a nice wood color...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> I was wondering what happened to that firewood carrying rack I made in middle school. Looks like you snatched it from my parents' house and converted it into a case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry , I'm not mad, you put it to good use.


I made it at my schools workshop, they had some nice 1x2 I believe it is, feels like it's birch wood. I sanded it down with a router (not the wifi kind lol) and used the same stain ad the monitor build from like a month ago. And haha glad to see someone else making this kind of stuff on school, even though it was for fire wood, still though. A lot of kids just waste time on there and make a mess, kind of pisses me off because it's a super nice shop, fully stocked.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> Rubber bands are just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I always use them during DICE runs. Excellent for attaching paper towels to your GPU. And the HS is pretty light.
> 1448MHz core with 1.16v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My memory clocks pretty badly though so all in all it's a mediocre 750Ti even if the core clocks are fine.


That's an insanely hefty overclock! And at a crazy low voltage too! Very nice dude.


----------



## chrisjames61

Simple mod. Slapped a 120mm fan on an old Opteron heatsink using two sided tape. Throws lots of air across the nearby Northbridge and Power Delivery heatsinks.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Out of three pic there gotta be something good eh?


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alatar*
> 
> My 750Ti coupled with a stock cooler from one of my FX 8-cores:


I actually snorted laughing when I saw this picture. Awesome job. Next step - use ropes to make it even more ghetto.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Out of three pic there gotta be something good eh?


Batteries!









Just kidding, what's up with the white PCB ?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Batteries!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just kidding, what's up with the white PCB ?


You mean the GPU? I was testing the waters with that. Turns out to be water and static electricity proof after what I did to it. Still works though.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Out of three pic there gotta be something good eh?


I bought the same exact LCD controller for my backlight-less display


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I bought the same exact LCD controller for my backlight-less display


Too bad it doesn't work properly with a 16:10 HP LCD









I can only chose from 16:9 and 4:3, and the max resolution is 1366*768 even though my LCD is 1920*1200.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Too bad it doesn't work properly with a 16:10 HP LCD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can only chose from 16:9 and 4:3, and the max resolution is 1366*768 even though my LCD is 1920*1200.


It doesn't support 1920x1080 either? My panel is 1366*768 anyway


----------



## 0493mike

This is my gettofide 560 ti. It is actually more silent than the original configuration and it allowed me to overclock it to 1000 mhz. Just extra stuff I had laying around and the 120mm fan bolted right on the side.


----------



## mboner1

This is my last case, Bought a 7970 and it didn't fit, had to grab z pliers!!





Cable management was done by the store i bought it from, was my first gaming pc so don't blame me..


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That... That must be a lie! A stock cooler with heatpipes?!


This is a standard AMD heatsink for 125+W cpu's. 45/65W have small aluminium heatsink.85/95W have thicker aluminium heatsink.125/140W have heatsink with heatpipes.
I should already do something with my server. I'm considering building a new case for it.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> This is a standard AMD heatsink for 125+W cpu's. 45/65W have small aluminium heatsink.85/95W have thicker aluminium heatsink.125/140W have heatsink with heatpipes.
> I should already do something with my server. I'm considering building a new case for it.


You say that but it depends. Even FX6300 had that heatsink








45/65W usually have the heatsinks that the K-procs now have ( Jeez, heap of garbage cooler ). The lower power A-series procs have even worser heatsinks ...


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> This is my gettofide 560 ti. It is actually more silent than the original configuration and it allowed me to overclock it to 1000 mhz. Just extra stuff I had laying around and the 120mm fan bolted right on the side.


Oh yeah? My ghetto 7870 is even ghetto-er !

Here's ghetto CF and ghetto cooling.


----------



## Jack Mac

That second pic, wow.


----------



## 0493mike

Thats pretty getto he he he. Makes me prowd to be part of the getto nation. Btw that really is cool. Ha ha.


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> Thats pretty getto he he he. Makes me prowd to be part of the getto nation. Btw that really is cool. Ha ha.


So "getto" we dropped the "h." lol


----------



## Torvi

im thinking over on sick project. Someone tries to sell old gtx 295 for nothing and ive asked him for rear side pic. i want to see where are mounted screws for heating solution cuz i want to try and fir there... intel i5-4670k stock cooler ahaha







not even for using, just plainly for... art


----------



## Xylene

I wanted to smoke a cigarette in my computer room but didn't want my main box sucking in all the smoke.

Problem solved.


----------



## hakz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hakz*
> 
> not ghetto for me. that looks good bdw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess it isn't really "ghetto" by the typical sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , maybe just "DIY"
Click to expand...

it's not ghetto, yet all of us love it/em. Let's call it "furniture"?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Oh yeah? My ghetto 7870 is even ghetto-er !
> 
> Here's ghetto CF and ghetto cooling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Moar fans!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> im thinking over on sick project. Someone tries to sell old gtx 295 for nothing and ive asked him for rear side pic. i want to see where are mounted screws for heating solution cuz i want to try and fir there... intel i5-4670k stock cooler ahaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not even for using, just plainly for... art


Please do it! Get it and just try to overclock the caps off of it!


----------



## Torvi

oh ill probably join club this week. im going to spray paint my case therefore ill have to find a new house for my system during the weekend







it will be probably some foams, PLATES, and cardboards


----------



## Lubed Up Slug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Oh yeah? My ghetto 7870 is even ghetto-er !
> 
> Here's ghetto CF and ghetto cooling.


Wait are you really water cooling that? seems a little dangerous....

Also I like the PCIE riser to get the second graphics card to fit


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lubed Up Slug*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Oh yeah? My ghetto 7870 is even ghetto-er !
> 
> Here's ghetto CF and ghetto cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait are you really water cooling that? seems a little dangerous....
> 
> Also I like the PCIE riser to get the second graphics card to fit
Click to expand...

THe PCIE riser is normal. What I'm trying to figure out is why he took a sledge hammer to the bottom of the case to get it to fit and not just move up a bit more?


----------



## Lubed Up Slug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> The PCIE riser is normal. What I'm trying to figure out is why he took a sledge hammer to the bottom of the case to get it to fit and not just move up a bit more?


So it's normal just to rest a graphics card on top of another one and attach it with a pcie riser to get it to fit? ok cool


----------



## Torvi

OFC IT IS! it also improves cooling! that way air sucked into gpu have only one way to go out which makes cooling enhanced


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I can't move up the 7850 because I broke the fan on the 7870. The intel fan rammed into the stock fan shortly after I took the photo, and the stock fan lost a fan blade.

I used 2 120mm fan on the 7870, making it 3 slot. Btw CF bridges are only 3 slots wide...

Besides, even if I put the 7850 vertically, it will over heat when I run FAH with a 120mm fan pushing air into it.


----------



## 0493mike

Opps.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lubed Up Slug*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> The PCIE riser is normal. What I'm trying to figure out is why he took a sledge hammer to the bottom of the case to get it to fit and not just move up a bit more?
> 
> 
> 
> So it's normal just to rest a graphics card on top of another one and attach it with a pcie riser to get it to fit? ok cool
Click to expand...

Well I suppose the resting on top of another card part not so much. It's kind of hard to see what is going in that case. I thought it looked to be mounted like some of the +1 expansion slots might be. like this

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I can't move up the 7850 because I broke the fan on the 7870. The intel fan rammed into the stock fan shortly after I took the photo, and the stock fan lost a fan blade.
> 
> I used 2 120mm fan on the 7870, making it 3 slot. Btw CF bridges are only 3 slots wide...
> 
> Besides, even if I put the 7850 vertically, it will over heat when I run FAH with a 120mm fan pushing air into it.


You might want to consider running an open air system? Or swap the cards around?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> You might want to consider running an open air system? Or swap the cards around?


Don't worry, for everything you see in the pic, I only have the case and the water loop with me. Everything else is either fried, sold for mining, or sold for OCing


----------



## Torvi

that's my first ghetto mod for upcoming gpu modding, This is the easy way to enhance your stock intel cooler and provide corsair cooling performance











bump, sounds like no mod for me, i just broke teh fan qq

if there could be a way to fit stock gainward fan from gtx 295 to intel heatsink that would be a nice thing


----------



## Narinik

Needed a quick way to mount some leds so i just crammed them in some headers! works with and without the header block. Though i should throw some electrical tape on the non-blocked one.


----------



## 0493mike

I need to get me some stickers.


----------



## d3daiM

Wall pc. Held up by thumbtacks. Guaranteed it get no gheto-er than this


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

I'll have a proper picture for you guys soon, but I will describe my most recent ghetto modding.

I have three Nidec BetaV TA450DC's. Each one draws 1.3A and at 12V blows about 110CFM at 3200RPM and about 1000dB.
I want to run all three as high-flow intakes on Project Black and Copper - a computer that has to be in the same room I sleep in.
330CFM intake is good, a million dB is not.

So, I made my own 5V adapter cable for the fans. The Nidecs start fine on their own at 5V.

Here's a MS Paint illustration, until I can find the cable for the camera.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> I'll have a proper picture for you guys soon, but I will describe my most recent ghetto modding.
> 
> I have three Nidec BetaV TA450DC's. Each one draws 1.3A and at 12V blows about 110CFM at 3200RPM and about 1000dB.
> I want to run all three as high-flow intakes on Project Black and Copper - a computer that has to be in the same room I sleep in.
> 330CFM intake is good, a million dB is not.
> 
> So, I made my own 5V adapter cable for the fans. The Nidecs start fine on their own at 5V.
> 
> Here's a MS Paint illustration, until I can find the cable for the camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. BTW for situations where 5V is not cutting it but 12V is too much you can draw 7V by using 5V line as ground. However, this should be used with caution as some PSU's can act up (depending how they are done internally) when doing this so if going for that it would be best to test it for a little while with the PSU out of the PC so that if it blows the damage is limited







It should be fine as long as you are drawing only a small amount of amps that way. I have not done it myself though so take this with grain of salt


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I've done a 7V mod running a crappy 140mm fan and the stock fan that came with my 212+. I have had no problems, and I've daisy-chained a Molex-to-SATA adapter. It's a huge mess and I hope I never have to revert it, but it works and that's what counts.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> Nice. BTW for situations where 5V is not cutting it but 12V is too much you can draw 7V by using 5V line as ground. However, this should be used with caution as some PSU's can act up (depending how they are done internally) when doing this so if going for that it would be best to test it for a little while with the PSU out of the PC so that if it blows the damage is limited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be fine as long as you are drawing only a small amount of amps that way. I have not done it myself though so take this with grain of salt


With fan currents of any higher than a couple of hundred milliamps that workaround will cause the voltage to fall below 5


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Instead of doing voltage hacks, why not use resistors? You can get 'em for real cheap and much less likely to break your PSU.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> Nice. BTW for situations where 5V is not cutting it but 12V is too much you can draw 7V by using 5V line as ground. However, this should be used with caution as some PSU's can act up (depending how they are done internally) when doing this so if going for that it would be best to test it for a little while with the PSU out of the PC so that if it blows the damage is limited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It should be fine as long as you are drawing only a small amount of amps that way. I have not done it myself though so take this with grain of salt


For this to work properly you need things on the 5V circuit to draw off the extra power. If you had a 300mA fan on 7V,it's going to back feed 300mA up the 5V line. If you don't have anything on the 5V feed to draw that off, it goes right up the wrong side of the PSU. Since my fan setup is asking for close to 4A I didn't want to risk damaging any components.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Instead of doing voltage hacks, why not use resistors? You can get 'em for real cheap and much less likely to break your PSU.


I know for standard fans those resistor cables are small, but for my Nidecs wouldn't I need a higher wattage resistor to deal with the extra draw compared to a normal fan?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> I know for standard fans those resistor cables are small, but for my Nidecs wouldn't I need a higher wattage resistor to deal with the extra draw compared to a normal fan?


Ahh I totally forgot about that. Found some 2W resistors on ebay, might work if you use them in parallel to spread the load? I don't even how much resistance you need









http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-ohm-2-watts-1-Metal-Film-Resistors-8-Pieces-/271322025397


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Ahh I totally forgot about that. Found some 2W resistors on ebay, might work if you use them in parallel to spread the load? I don't even how much resistance you need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-ohm-2-watts-1-Metal-Film-Resistors-8-Pieces-/271322025397


I've seen it said for conventional fans (0.2A - 0.3A) that you run ~50 ohms for 7V and ~81 ohms for 5V.

I wonder if this remains true for a fan with 4x the draw.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Instead of doing voltage hacks, why not use resistors? You can get 'em for real cheap and much less likely to break your PSU.


Once time I did it with older thermaltake pump. Resitor went black and burned through the electrical tape. And I know some people who have used the 7V voltage hack for many years without any damage.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Instead of doing voltage hacks, why not use resistors? You can get 'em for real cheap and much less likely to break your PSU.


because resistors use (waste) power. PWM/voltage/phase frequency control does not do so by design (but a tiny little bit through inefficiency). You'll never see a large motor speed controlled via a resistor in a non-academic setting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> I'll have a proper picture for you guys soon, but I will describe my most recent ghetto modding.
> 
> I have three Nidec BetaV TA450DC's. Each one draws 1.3A and at 12V blows about 110CFM at 3200RPM and about 1000dB.
> I want to run all three as high-flow intakes on Project Black and Copper - a computer that has to be in the same room I sleep in.
> 330CFM intake is good, a million dB is not.


lol, a million dB would probably blow the planet apart (it's a logarithmic, not a linear scale).


http://www.nonoise.org/library/envnoise/

and because it's fun:
http://www.makeitlouder.com/Decibel%20Level%20Chart.txt

numbers in dB
-80?(P) UNDERWATER NUCLEAR SUBMARINE MICROPHONES LISTENING TO SHRIMP CHEWING ON FOOD AT 100 METERS DISTANCE
-30 (N) ONE HUMAN TALKING 20 MILES AWAY ( 60 DB / METER AT A DISTANCE OF 20 MILES )-REF.1.2003
-4 TO +4 (N) THE TICKING OF AN ORDINARY WRISTWATCH AT 1 METER -REF.1 2003
120-130 FRONT ROW AT A ROCK CONCERT- UP TO 200 REFRIGERATOR SIZE SPEAKERS
AND 50000-300000 WATTS OF CLEAN, FULL FREQUENCY SOUND -REF.1.1981

135-130(N) LARGE TRAIN HORN -REF.1.1985
135 HUMAN, A SLIGHT COOLING EFFECT BEGINS TO BE NOTICED, FROM AIR EXPANSION -REF.1.1983
136.498(P) = 1 TORR PRESSURE = 1 MILLIMETER MERCURY
137 HUMAN BODY VIBRATION IS STRONG -REF.1.1983
137-140 HUMAN EAR ALL FREQUENCIES ARE PAINFUL -REF.1.1983
140 EXTREMELY DAMAGING TO HEARING NO MATTER HOW SHORT THE TIME EXPOSURE

150 ROCK CONCERT SPEAKER AT 1600 WATTS ON THE ACTUAL VIBRATING SURFACE -REF.1.1991

153 HUMAN THROAT IS VIBRATING SO HARD IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SWALLOW -REF.1.1983

158 (P)INSIDE A ROCK CONCERT SPEAKER BOX REFRIDGERATOR SIZE AT MAX. 5000 WATTS -REF.1.1983
*160 (P)FLASHLIGHTS EXHIBIT ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSING-EMP (DIMMING DURING SOUND) -REF.1.1983*

172 FOG IS CREATED, DEPENDING ON THE TEMPERATURE, DEW POINT AND HUMIDITY

174 AIR BEGINS TO HEAT UP DUE TO COMPRESSION, MOST SHOCK WAVES ARE VERY HOT
174(P) LOUDSPEAKER COUPLED MANOMETER HEADPHONES DOWN TO 1 HERTZ -REF.15.
175 (N) QUARTER DYNAMITE STICK, VERY CLOSE PRESSURE MAY EXCEED 210 db (P)
175.8(P) 1 TON T.N.T. AT 250 FEET

194.1(P)EXACTLY, 1 POUND T.N.T. AT 6 FEET -REF.4.
195-190 (P) HUMAN EARDRUMS RUPTURE 50 % OF TIME -REF.2.
195.2(P) 1 TON T.N.T. AT 60 FEET -REF.4.
200.59 (NP) 63.24 POUNDS OF T.N.T., RIECHTER SCALE 1
*202-198 (P) HUMAN DEATH FROM SOUND (SHOCK) WAVE ALONE. DEATH FROM: SCHRAPNEL AT ANY LEVEL ABOVE 165 DB IS LIKELY AND BEING THROWN (10 FEET PER SECOND) ABOVE 180 DB -REF.2.*

*216 (P) INSIDE A NORMAL CAR ENGINE CYLINDER WITH A 9 TO 1 COMPRESSION RATIO*

248 (N)ATOMIC BOMB-HIROSHIMA AND NAGASAKI JAPAN AUG. 6, 9, 1945.TRAGICALLY KILLED
300,000 PEAPLE. TOTALLY DISINTEGRATED 16 SQUARE MILES, CRACKED DISTANT CONCRETE WALLS 12" THICK, EQUAL TO 20,000 TONS OF T.N.T., WIND WAS AROUND 300 MILES PER HOUR, DESTROYED WALLS 28" THICK AT 1 MILE.POWER TO MAKE A CRATER 633 FEET WIDE AND 80 FEET DEEP -REF.1.2.

286 (N)MT. SAINT HELENS VOLCANO ERUPTION-BABY VOLCANO, BLEW DOWN TREES 16
MILES AWAY. COULD BE SEEN FROM OUTER SPACE ON THE SPACE SHUTTLE
BLEW OUT SOME WINDOWS IN SEATTLE-TACOMA 200 MILES AWAY, 163 db (P) -REF.20.

310 (N)KRAKATOA VOLCANO ERUPTION-1883 A.D., CRACKED ONE FOOT THICK CONCRETE
AT 300 MILES, CREATED A 3000 FOOT TIDAL WAVE, *HEARD 3100 MILES AWAY,*
SOUND PRESSURE CAUSED BAROMETERS TO FLUCTUATE WILDLY AT 100 MILES
INDICATING LEVELS OF AT LEAST 170-190 DB (P) AT THIS DISTANCE OF 100 MILES
EVEN WHEN SHOUTING IN SOMEONES EAR, COULD NOT BE HEARD AT 100 MILES
CAUSED FOG TO APPEAR AND DISAPPEAR INSTANTLY AT HUNDREDS OF MILES
ROCKS WERE THROWN TO A HIEGHT OF 34 MILES. DUST AND DEBRIS FELL CONTINOUSLY FOR 10 DAYS AFTER BLAST. PRODUCED VERY COLORFUL SUNSETS FOR ONE YEAR, EJECTED 4 CUBIC MILES OF
THE EARTH. CREATED ANTI-NODE OF NEGATIVE PRESSURE AT THE EXACT OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE EARTH.SOUND COVERED 1 / 10 OF THE WORLDS SURFACE, SHOCK (SOUND) WAVES "ECHOED" AROUND THE EARTH 36 TIMES AND LASTED FOR ABOUT A MONTH! -REF.19.

320 (N)VOLCANO ERUPTION, TAMBORA INDONESIA,1815, *EJECTED 36 CUBIC MILES*.APPROXIMATELY EQUAL TO
14,000 MEGATON NUCLEAR BOMBS OR A 14 GIGATON BOMB BASED ON EJECTED VOLUME,CHANGE IN MEGATONS TIMES 1.345 EQUALS VOLUME EJECTED CHANGE.IF WAS A NUCLEAR BOMB IT WOULD CREATE A CRATER ABOUT 12.4 MILES WIDE AND 1.33 MILES DEEP.INTERNAL PRESSURE IS BELIEVED TO BE ABOUT 47 MILLION P.S.I. = 347 DB (P) -REF.1.3.

OK, I changed my mind. 1 million dB would probably destroy the universe.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

?


----------



## esqueue

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> because resistors use (waste) power. PWM/voltage/phase frequency control does not do so by design (but a tiny little bit through inefficiency). You'll never see a large motor speed controlled via a resistor in a non-academic setting.
> lol, a million dB would probably blow the planet apart (it's a logarithmic, not a linear scale).
> 
> 
> http://www.nonoise.org/library/envnoise/
> 
> and because it's fun:
> http://www.makeitlouder.com/Decibel%20Level%20Chart.txt
> 
> numbers in dB
> -80?(P) UNDERWATER NUCLEAR SUBMARINE MICROPHONES LISTENING TO SHRIMP CHEWING ON FOOD AT 100 METERS DISTANCE
> -30 (N) ONE HUMAN TALKING 20 MILES AWAY ( 60 DB / METER AT A DISTANCE OF 20 MILES )-REF.1.2003
> -4 TO +4 (N) THE TICKING OF AN ORDINARY WRISTWATCH AT 1 METER -REF.1 2003
> 120-130 FRONT ROW AT A ROCK CONCERT- UP TO 200 REFRIGERATOR SIZE SPEAKERS
> AND 50000-300000 WATTS OF CLEAN, FULL FREQUENCY SOUND -REF.1.1981
> 
> 135-130(N) LARGE TRAIN HORN -REF.1.1985
> 135 HUMAN, A SLIGHT COOLING EFFECT BEGINS TO BE NOTICED, FROM AIR EXPANSION -REF.1.1983
> 136.498(P) = 1 TORR PRESSURE = 1 MILLIMETER MERCURY
> 137 HUMAN BODY VIBRATION IS STRONG -REF.1.1983
> 137-140 HUMAN EAR ALL FREQUENCIES ARE PAINFUL -REF.1.1983
> 140 EXTREMELY DAMAGING TO HEARING NO MATTER HOW SHORT THE TIME EXPOSURE
> 
> 150 ROCK CONCERT SPEAKER AT 1600 WATTS ON THE ACTUAL VIBRATING SURFACE -REF.1.1991
> 
> 153 HUMAN THROAT IS VIBRATING SO HARD IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SWALLOW -REF.1.1983
> 
> 158 (P)INSIDE A ROCK CONCERT SPEAKER BOX REFRIDGERATOR SIZE AT MAX. 5000 WATTS -REF.1.1983
> *160 (P)FLASHLIGHTS EXHIBIT ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSING-EMP (DIMMING DURING SOUND) -REF.1.1983*
> 
> 172 FOG IS CREATED, DEPENDING ON THE TEMPERATURE, DEW POINT AND HUMIDITY
> 
> 174 AIR BEGINS TO HEAT UP DUE TO COMPRESSION, MOST SHOCK WAVES ARE VERY HOT
> 174(P) LOUDSPEAKER COUPLED MANOMETER HEADPHONES DOWN TO 1 HERTZ -REF.15.
> 175 (N) QUARTER DYNAMITE STICK, VERY CLOSE PRESSURE MAY EXCEED 210 db (P)
> 175.8(P) 1 TON T.N.T. AT 250 FEET
> 
> 194.1(P)EXACTLY, 1 POUND T.N.T. AT 6 FEET -REF.4.
> 195-190 (P) HUMAN EARDRUMS RUPTURE 50 % OF TIME -REF.2.
> 195.2(P) 1 TON T.N.T. AT 60 FEET -REF.4.
> 200.59 (NP) 63.24 POUNDS OF T.N.T., RIECHTER SCALE 1
> *202-198 (P) HUMAN DEATH FROM SOUND (SHOCK) WAVE ALONE. DEATH FROM: SCHRAPNEL AT ANY LEVEL ABOVE 165 DB IS LIKELY AND BEING THROWN (10 FEET PER SECOND) ABOVE 180 DB -REF.2.*
> 
> *216 (P) INSIDE A NORMAL CAR ENGINE CYLINDER WITH A 9 TO 1 COMPRESSION RATIO*
> 
> 248 (N)ATOMIC BOMB-HIROSHIMA AND NAGASAKI JAPAN AUG. 6, 9, 1945.TRAGICALLY KILLED
> 300,000 PEAPLE. TOTALLY DISINTEGRATED 16 SQUARE MILES, CRACKED DISTANT CONCRETE WALLS 12" THICK, EQUAL TO 20,000 TONS OF T.N.T., WIND WAS AROUND 300 MILES PER HOUR, DESTROYED WALLS 28" THICK AT 1 MILE.POWER TO MAKE A CRATER 633 FEET WIDE AND 80 FEET DEEP -REF.1.2.
> 
> 286 (N)MT. SAINT HELENS VOLCANO ERUPTION-BABY VOLCANO, BLEW DOWN TREES 16
> MILES AWAY. COULD BE SEEN FROM OUTER SPACE ON THE SPACE SHUTTLE
> BLEW OUT SOME WINDOWS IN SEATTLE-TACOMA 200 MILES AWAY, 163 db (P) -REF.20.
> 
> 310 (N)KRAKATOA VOLCANO ERUPTION-1883 A.D., CRACKED ONE FOOT THICK CONCRETE
> AT 300 MILES, CREATED A 3000 FOOT TIDAL WAVE, *HEARD 3100 MILES AWAY,*
> SOUND PRESSURE CAUSED BAROMETERS TO FLUCTUATE WILDLY AT 100 MILES
> INDICATING LEVELS OF AT LEAST 170-190 DB (P) AT THIS DISTANCE OF 100 MILES
> EVEN WHEN SHOUTING IN SOMEONES EAR, COULD NOT BE HEARD AT 100 MILES
> CAUSED FOG TO APPEAR AND DISAPPEAR INSTANTLY AT HUNDREDS OF MILES
> ROCKS WERE THROWN TO A HIEGHT OF 34 MILES. DUST AND DEBRIS FELL CONTINOUSLY FOR 10 DAYS AFTER BLAST. PRODUCED VERY COLORFUL SUNSETS FOR ONE YEAR, EJECTED 4 CUBIC MILES OF
> THE EARTH. CREATED ANTI-NODE OF NEGATIVE PRESSURE AT THE EXACT OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE EARTH.SOUND COVERED 1 / 10 OF THE WORLDS SURFACE, SHOCK (SOUND) WAVES "ECHOED" AROUND THE EARTH 36 TIMES AND LASTED FOR ABOUT A MONTH! -REF.19.
> 
> 320 (N)VOLCANO ERUPTION, TAMBORA INDONESIA,1815, *EJECTED 36 CUBIC MILES*.APPROXIMATELY EQUAL TO
> 14,000 MEGATON NUCLEAR BOMBS OR A 14 GIGATON BOMB BASED ON EJECTED VOLUME,CHANGE IN MEGATONS TIMES 1.345 EQUALS VOLUME EJECTED CHANGE.IF WAS A NUCLEAR BOMB IT WOULD CREATE A CRATER ABOUT 12.4 MILES WIDE AND 1.33 MILES DEEP.INTERNAL PRESSURE IS BELIEVED TO BE ABOUT 47 MILLION P.S.I. = 347 DB (P) -REF.1.3.
> 
> OK, I changed my mind. 1 million dB would probably destroy the universe.






LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got stuck reading all the stuff at the bottom about the db ratings. Yes, 1,000,000 DB would be some bad stuff.


----------



## d3vour3r

I read the whole post. very interesting thanks


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Logarithmic scales and exponential growth are kinda scary. Now, if you can concentrate 200dB in a sort-of sound "laser," then you've got yourself a sonic rifle!


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esqueue*
> 
> 
> LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got stuck reading all the stuff at the bottom about the db ratings. Yes, 1,000,000 DB would be some bad stuff.


Man it'd be suck to experience that kind of volcano eruptions.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Man it'd be suck to experience that kind of volcano eruptions.


Wait till Yellowstone "pops"...


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Man it'd be suck to experience that kind of volcano eruptions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait till Yellowstone "pops"...
Click to expand...

Phhew, I'm glad I'm 2000km away from that. It better not start a huge tidal wave in the great lakes and drone me...


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Man it'd be suck to experience that kind of volcano eruptions.


Depending on distance to eruption site it would be probably a very brief experience. Roughly 3 milliseconds brief (assuming you are standing, up to twice of that if you are lying down perpendicular to the eruption location and are relatively tall person). That is a bit too short time for signal to make it into the brain from where-ever it might hurt. Some nerve impulses might travel a distance up to approx 30 cm during that time.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Phhew, I'm glad I'm 2000km away from that. It better not start a huge tidal wave in the great lakes and drone me...


No worries, if Yellowstone "pops" in the way that any self-respecting supervolcano should "pop", there won't be any North America left.... nor Canada or Mexico for that matter. So, it would be a spectacular -albeit short- event and you'll have front row seats


----------



## Willi

one million DB would be more like a supernova or something... but at that level of energy, I doubt its a decent measuring scale.


----------



## causaMortis1337

this was my temporary case for a while while I was finishing up the mods to the case I was going to put it in lol pretty ghetto


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Phhew, I'm glad I'm 2000km away from that. It better not start a huge tidal wave in the great lakes and drone me...
> 
> 
> 
> No worries, if Yellowstone "pops" in the way that any self-respecting supervolcano should "pop", there won't be any North America left.... nor Canada or Mexico for that matter. So, it would be a spectacular -albeit short- event and you'll have front row seats
Click to expand...

Oh gee, that makes me sleep easier at night... Not.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Oh gee, that makes me sleep easier at night... Not.


Why worry? You probably would never know what hit you.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> because resistors use (waste) power. PWM/voltage/phase frequency control does not do so by design (but a tiny little bit through inefficiency). You'll never see a large motor speed controlled via a resistor in a non-academic setting.
> lol, a million dB would probably blow the planet apart (it's a logarithmic, not a linear scale).
> 
> 
> http://www.nonoise.org/library/envnoise/
> 
> and because it's fun:
> http://www.makeitlouder.com/Decibel%20Level%20Chart.txt
> 
> numbers in dB
> -80?(P) UNDERWATER NUCLEAR SUBMARINE MICROPHONES LISTENING TO SHRIMP CHEWING ON FOOD AT 100 METERS DISTANCE
> -30 (N) ONE HUMAN TALKING 20 MILES AWAY ( 60 DB / METER AT A DISTANCE OF 20 MILES )-REF.1.2003
> -4 TO +4 (N) THE TICKING OF AN ORDINARY WRISTWATCH AT 1 METER -REF.1 2003
> 120-130 FRONT ROW AT A ROCK CONCERT- UP TO 200 REFRIGERATOR SIZE SPEAKERS
> AND 50000-300000 WATTS OF CLEAN, FULL FREQUENCY SOUND -REF.1.1981
> 
> 135-130(N) LARGE TRAIN HORN -REF.1.1985
> 135 HUMAN, A SLIGHT COOLING EFFECT BEGINS TO BE NOTICED, FROM AIR EXPANSION -REF.1.1983
> 136.498(P) = 1 TORR PRESSURE = 1 MILLIMETER MERCURY
> 137 HUMAN BODY VIBRATION IS STRONG -REF.1.1983
> 137-140 HUMAN EAR ALL FREQUENCIES ARE PAINFUL -REF.1.1983
> 140 EXTREMELY DAMAGING TO HEARING NO MATTER HOW SHORT THE TIME EXPOSURE
> 
> 150 ROCK CONCERT SPEAKER AT 1600 WATTS ON THE ACTUAL VIBRATING SURFACE -REF.1.1991
> 
> 153 HUMAN THROAT IS VIBRATING SO HARD IT IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SWALLOW -REF.1.1983
> 
> 158 (P)INSIDE A ROCK CONCERT SPEAKER BOX REFRIDGERATOR SIZE AT MAX. 5000 WATTS -REF.1.1983
> *160 (P)FLASHLIGHTS EXHIBIT ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSING-EMP (DIMMING DURING SOUND) -REF.1.1983*
> 
> 172 FOG IS CREATED, DEPENDING ON THE TEMPERATURE, DEW POINT AND HUMIDITY
> 
> 174 AIR BEGINS TO HEAT UP DUE TO COMPRESSION, MOST SHOCK WAVES ARE VERY HOT
> 174(P) LOUDSPEAKER COUPLED MANOMETER HEADPHONES DOWN TO 1 HERTZ -REF.15.
> 175 (N) QUARTER DYNAMITE STICK, VERY CLOSE PRESSURE MAY EXCEED 210 db (P)
> 175.8(P) 1 TON T.N.T. AT 250 FEET
> 
> 194.1(P)EXACTLY, 1 POUND T.N.T. AT 6 FEET -REF.4.
> 195-190 (P) HUMAN EARDRUMS RUPTURE 50 % OF TIME -REF.2.
> 195.2(P) 1 TON T.N.T. AT 60 FEET -REF.4.
> 200.59 (NP) 63.24 POUNDS OF T.N.T., RIECHTER SCALE 1
> *202-198 (P) HUMAN DEATH FROM SOUND (SHOCK) WAVE ALONE. DEATH FROM: SCHRAPNEL AT ANY LEVEL ABOVE 165 DB IS LIKELY AND BEING THROWN (10 FEET PER SECOND) ABOVE 180 DB -REF.2.*
> 
> *216 (P) INSIDE A NORMAL CAR ENGINE CYLINDER WITH A 9 TO 1 COMPRESSION RATIO*
> 
> 248 (N)ATOMIC BOMB-HIROSHIMA AND NAGASAKI JAPAN AUG. 6, 9, 1945.TRAGICALLY KILLED
> 300,000 PEAPLE. TOTALLY DISINTEGRATED 16 SQUARE MILES, CRACKED DISTANT CONCRETE WALLS 12" THICK, EQUAL TO 20,000 TONS OF T.N.T., WIND WAS AROUND 300 MILES PER HOUR, DESTROYED WALLS 28" THICK AT 1 MILE.POWER TO MAKE A CRATER 633 FEET WIDE AND 80 FEET DEEP -REF.1.2.
> 
> 286 (N)MT. SAINT HELENS VOLCANO ERUPTION-BABY VOLCANO, BLEW DOWN TREES 16
> MILES AWAY. COULD BE SEEN FROM OUTER SPACE ON THE SPACE SHUTTLE
> BLEW OUT SOME WINDOWS IN SEATTLE-TACOMA 200 MILES AWAY, 163 db (P) -REF.20.
> 
> 310 (N)KRAKATOA VOLCANO ERUPTION-1883 A.D., CRACKED ONE FOOT THICK CONCRETE
> AT 300 MILES, CREATED A 3000 FOOT TIDAL WAVE, *HEARD 3100 MILES AWAY,*
> SOUND PRESSURE CAUSED BAROMETERS TO FLUCTUATE WILDLY AT 100 MILES
> INDICATING LEVELS OF AT LEAST 170-190 DB (P) AT THIS DISTANCE OF 100 MILES
> EVEN WHEN SHOUTING IN SOMEONES EAR, COULD NOT BE HEARD AT 100 MILES
> CAUSED FOG TO APPEAR AND DISAPPEAR INSTANTLY AT HUNDREDS OF MILES
> ROCKS WERE THROWN TO A HIEGHT OF 34 MILES. DUST AND DEBRIS FELL CONTINOUSLY FOR 10 DAYS AFTER BLAST. PRODUCED VERY COLORFUL SUNSETS FOR ONE YEAR, EJECTED 4 CUBIC MILES OF
> THE EARTH. CREATED ANTI-NODE OF NEGATIVE PRESSURE AT THE EXACT OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE EARTH.SOUND COVERED 1 / 10 OF THE WORLDS SURFACE, SHOCK (SOUND) WAVES "ECHOED" AROUND THE EARTH 36 TIMES AND LASTED FOR ABOUT A MONTH! -REF.19.
> 
> 320 (N)VOLCANO ERUPTION, TAMBORA INDONESIA,1815, *EJECTED 36 CUBIC MILES*.APPROXIMATELY EQUAL TO
> 14,000 MEGATON NUCLEAR BOMBS OR A 14 GIGATON BOMB BASED ON EJECTED VOLUME,CHANGE IN MEGATONS TIMES 1.345 EQUALS VOLUME EJECTED CHANGE.IF WAS A NUCLEAR BOMB IT WOULD CREATE A CRATER ABOUT 12.4 MILES WIDE AND 1.33 MILES DEEP.INTERNAL PRESSURE IS BELIEVED TO BE ABOUT 47 MILLION P.S.I. = 347 DB (P) -REF.1.3.
> 
> OK, I changed my mind. 1 million dB would probably destroy the universe.


This was fascinating. Thanks for the read!


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I got a broken Wii for $10, about to get a PS1 for $40.

Ghetto modding here I come


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> about to get a PS1 for $40.


A lot of money for PSX. I bought mine for ~25$. If you want to mod then apply the 66mhz mod. This overclocks both cpu&gpu from 33mhz to 66mhz.


----------



## Mand12

Does mounting my new 840 EVO with duct tape because I ran out of 3.5" bays to put my 2.5" tray in and was too lazy to load in the second bank of 3.5" bays count?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mand12*
> 
> Does mounting my new 840 EVO with duct tape because I ran out of 3.5" bays to put my 2.5" tray in and was too lazy to load in the second bank of 3.5" bays count?


Prolly. That's the best part about SSDs. I wouldn't even consider it for a 2.5" HDD, but I've dropped SSDs intentionally when explaining how they work to people, I've dropped them accidentally when showing them to people, and I've dropped them moving them between external bays. Duct tape would be an improvement, actually.

I just realized, I have purchased two HDDs and four SSDs in the past year. Each HDD has more than double all the SSDs' combined capacity. Huh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I got a broken Wii for $10, about to get a PS1 for $40.
> 
> Ghetto modding here I come


What can you even do with a Wii case? I don't think you could even fit an mITX system in it. Maybe gut a laptop and salvage the motherboard? That would be a crappy desktop though. It's why I'm not a fan of iMacs: they're desktops but with laptop hardware. Mac Minis and Mac Pros, on the other hand, are A-OK.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Just got my 1U heatsik, cools my i3 just fine.
Not sure how well it can cool an OCed APU though.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Just got my 1U heatsik, cools my i3 just fine.
> Not sure how well it can cool an OCed APU though.


OC'd? definitely not ... The stock AMD ones are rather quiet but very hot as well. They're just utter garbage, yes, the FX ones are much better and also a lot louder. Very much louder.

This thread has gone really interesting. Do carry with on with noise comparisons. I think at 1million db you better start measuring in -Cataclysmic galaxy destruction pressure-


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Prolly. That's the best part about SSDs. I wouldn't even consider it for a 2.5" HDD, but I've dropped SSDs intentionally when explaining how they work to people, I've dropped them accidentally when showing them to people, and I've dropped them moving them between external bays. Duct tape would be an improvement, actually.
> 
> I just realized, I have purchased two HDDs and four SSDs in the past year. Each HDD has more than double all the SSDs' combined capacity. Huh.
> What can you even do with a Wii case? I don't think you could even fit an mITX system in it. Maybe gut a laptop and salvage the motherboard? That would be a crappy desktop though. It's why I'm not a fan of iMacs: they're desktops but with laptop hardware. Mac Minis and Mac Pros, on the other hand, are A-OK.


my ssd just lays around as i dont use it. lol he cam make a custom router or raidbox for ssd's(though as a raidbox thats overkill since a good ssd is overkill). as for mac i prefer hackintoshes for that reason.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> OC'd? definitely not ... The stock AMD ones are rather quiet but very hot as well. They're just utter garbage, yes, the FX ones are much better and also a lot louder. Very much louder.
> 
> This thread has gone really interesting. Do carry with on with noise comparisons. I think at 1million db you better start measuring in -Cataclysmic galaxy destruction pressure-


Right now my 1U heatsink does 0.8C/W with a 2000 rpm 70mm fan.

I can probably use a slightly OC'ed APU if I undervolt and use 2 blowers I think.


----------



## legoman786

Figured this is right up the thread's alley;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1477256/hp-dv2000-overheating/0_100


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I got a broken Wii for $10, about to get a PS1 for $40.
> 
> Ghetto modding here I come


40$ for a PS1 is pillage. I say 20 or 25 is more than fair.


----------



## cones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3daiM*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wall pc. Held up by thumbtacks. Guaranteed it get no gheto-er than this


Where is the mouse and monitor


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> 40$ for a PS1 is pillage. I say 20 or 25 is more than fair.


The actual price is $3. Shipping costs $38


----------



## cones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The actual price is $3. Shipping costs $38


That's a good price then for one, not the shipping though. I still want to get one but wouldn't do anything with it besides OC it.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The actual price is $3. Shipping costs $38


LOL u wot m8? Thats some crazy shipping... Just go to any thrift store and you'll find one.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I got a broken Wii for $10, about to get a PS1 for $40.
> 
> Ghetto modding here I come


Expensive, i have get:

nintendo 64 (traded to nintendo NES)
PS2 fat black+ couple conttroller's+memorycard
PS2 fat silver
PS1 fat+ original controller+memorycard

all those,free from local "trash recucle station"

trash searching, ah... i love it


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The actual price is $3. Shipping costs $38


You in Alaska too?


----------



## Driftmonkey

Take a dead LCD screen, pull it apart, pull the tinted plastic/glass from it. Opaque when no light is behind it, see through when lights behind it. Photos are a test so I only have one LED strip on. can see much better with all 4 LED strips on. Cut hole in side of computer case, glue it on. Wabam.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take a dead LCD screen, pull it apart, pull the tinted plastic/glass from it. Opaque when no light is behind it, see through when lights behind it. Photos are a test so I only have one LED strip on. can see much better with all 4 LED strips on. Cut hole in side of computer case, glue it on. Wabam.


Window display would be a super sick case mod. Next thing we know: a whole new market for case window wallpapers.


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Window display would be a super sick case mod. Next thing we know: a whole new market for case window wallpapers.


Omg, I have a hsitty lapotop lying aoruind that i Don't need. Wi'll hack it up some more and put it to good uise!









Edit: Ha, a bit too tipsy for the keyboard.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Omg, I have a hsitty lapotop lying aoruind that i Don't need. Wi'll hack it up some more and put it to good uise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Ha, a bit too tipsy for the keyboard.


Only a bit?


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Only a bit?


this^ lolz


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Here's something for you guys to enjoy.


Spoiler: First off, ghetto 5V battery pack that actually run at 6.5V











Spoiler: And then, mining ruined my life because all my good parts are used for mining



Running a GTX 280 for gaming rig even though I have R9 280X.


Backup rig that is running on a Pentium 4 at 3.75Ghz, with 1GB of RAM and a pretty beat up HD4650.


Did you spot that intel heatsink on the GPU?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Window display would be a super sick case mod. Next thing we know: a whole new market for case window wallpapers.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1430564/case-mod-visible-contrast-updated-18th-nov-2013-completed-photos-with-transparent-lcd/90


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1430564/case-mod-visible-contrast-updated-18th-nov-2013-completed-photos-with-transparent-lcd/90


Thats just like the ghetto monitor somebody made a few pages ago with a lamp for a backlight


----------



## akromatic

well ghetto doesnt have to be crude or obnoxious

o ring substitute


----------



## Unknownm

landlord is selling my place so I do have to sell one of my 280x. Used one fan from this card on the card i'm selling so I rigged up something on the spot. Furmark 68c


----------



## Werne

Now this is a thread for me, finding something I own that isn't ghetto'd is like finding a needle in a hay stack. But my cellphone battery died in the middle of a transfer so I can only give you two pics for now...



Spoiler: First off is my to-be HTPC





And yes, that cardboard box is it's current case. The hard drive is screwed into the box and being held by two metal PCI covers I ripped off some case so the drive doesn't get torn off the box. The CPU cooler is a stock FX 8320 heatsink with a 120mm 800RPM Scythe GlideStream PCGH Edition fan mounted by using zip-ties to secure it to the heatsink's heatpipes. The board is screwed into the box with four 4mm screws and I tightened it with nuts so it doesn't slide anywhere.

The PSU in that pic alone is a marvel of ghetto technology, and I will take a pic of it's insides once I find my saw. The fan it uses is a second GlideStream (got two on my Mugen 4, they are identical) which is connected to the PSU's 4-pin molex, I just connected a Molex-to-fan adapter and routed the fan plug back into the PSU. The case is from some 450W CCT piece of crap PSU that blew up and I ended up gluing it together with silicone since someone lost the screws (hence why I need a saw). The insides of the PSU is from an Enhance 450W PSU that originally had a 20-pin main cable and I modified it from parts used by the original CCT so it can have a 24-pin cable and power the board.





Spoiler: And this one is my proudest achievement yet





The board on top of the case is an ASUS P5KPL-AM IN/ROEM/SI with a Core 2 Duo E4500 @2.93GHz and 2GB DDR2-800 @1066 placed on a piece of cardboard that's been taped to the case with electrical tape. The components inside the case are what you can see in my "Tin Can" rig but with Arctic Freezer 13 and 4xDDR2-1066 and no graphics card.

The important part is that both of these boards work with a bit weird, both processors were powered by the XFX 550 Pro Core Edition but each was using a 24-pin cable from a different PSU. Mobo inside the case was getting it's CPU powered by the XFX PSU while the aforementioned CCT was crammed into the 5.25" bays providing the main cable so the machine can boot. The upper mobo had it's CPU powered by the XFX and also used it's 24-pin. The CCT has a 4-pin 12V cable so it couldn't be used to power the GA-970A-UD3 and if I were to use it for the top board, then I would have to put it on top of the case where it can't fit.

The bottom PC was running Debian inside a virtual machine on the top PC that was booting a Slitaz live session from a USB flash drive, so I was able to use my new PC through my old PC by using the old PC's built-in Intel G31/33 graphics cause the new PC had a dead graphics card. Mind boggling, eh?

As to why did I even bother? Well, I wanted to listen to music but all of it was unfortunately transferred to my new PC. My old board only had two SATA ports and I had to make all four hard drives work at the same time.

And the case in that pic is a marvel too, the top has a 120mm fan mount I drilled (covered with a motherboard) and since I lost all the plastic 5.25" covers on the front, I put in a dead optical drive, one plastic cover from some roadkill OEM HP case and glued two fronts from disassembled optical drives on top of it so I have all four bays covered. The side-panel latches were covered in electrical tape so the sides don't vibrate when the PC is on, front USB headers were held in place with hot glue, whole front panel was on the case only cause I hammered nails into it, hard drives were mounted in a 5.25" bay using a flat bicycle tire cut into strips and stretched over the 5.25" bays using zip-ties to form a suspension like Antec Solo has (still use that HDD mount on my new case, it does wonders to keep the drives silent), and I also used two coloring pencils put horizontally into the 5.25" bay to make the bay cage stop deforming due to HDD suspension system putting a lot of pressure on the crappy case.



What can I say, I never had money for fancy things (or anything) at all so I've been forced to make improvised stuff since birth, by now I very much enjoy it too.


----------



## mironccr345

Love this thread. The ghettoness is over 9000!


----------



## animal0307

Haven't had one in a while. I didn't want to drain my loop while replacing my CPU block and I don't have QDC's or locking needle nose pliers. Zip ties to the rescue!


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Haven't had one in a while. I didn't want to drain my loop while replacing my CPU block and I don't have QDC's or locking needle nose pliers. Zip ties to the rescue!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you're not alone, did the same thing with my loop a week ago. taped off the ends and relocated the tubes in certain locations so that it wouldn't cause a spill just because i didnt want to completely reset my loop


----------



## Teplous

I have two intel i7 4770k stock heatsinks laying around, anyone have any awesome, stupid, funny, crazy, and/or ridiculous ideas for them?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Greatest coasters ever? Duct tape them to a GPU? Stock coolers suck, mostly because they're just solid aluminium with no heatpipes.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> I have two intel i7 4770k stock heatsinks laying around, anyone have any awesome, stupid, funny, crazy, and/or ridiculous ideas for them?


Nuff said.


Oh and here's a crazy thought:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ADHDadditiv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Nuff said.
> 
> 
> Oh and here's a crazy thought:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Is that an old 5450 with a spray painted white heatsink glued to the top?

*EDIT*
Is the whole thing spray painted?


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Greatest coasters ever? Duct tape them to a GPU? Stock coolers suck, mostly because they're just solid aluminium with no heatpipes.


my GPU temps are just fine haha, i do like the coaster idea, and these coolers are actually quite decent they have a copper core, and originally i had had my cpu clocked to 4.4GHz with the stock cooler, of course it was somewhere around 85-90 C under 100% load but it was stable!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Nuff said.
> 
> 
> Oh and here's a crazy thought:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


haha, i love that, but i dont think it'd have enough cooling capacity for my GTX680
I love the lunch box idea, i may have to do that one day...


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADHDadditiv*
> 
> Is that an old 5450 with a spray painted white heatsink glued to the top?
> 
> *EDIT*
> Is the whole thing spray painted?


Well, I painted them seperately.

You're close, it's a Sapphire 4650 that came with my dad's i7 860. My dad swapped his 4650 for my 9500GT for the dual DVI connectors.

The 4650 is the second dedicated GPU I ever had, and it was blazing fast









It could handle Left 4 Dead 1 on *gasp* max quality with no AA at 1080p !!

I used to play NFS HP2 on integrated graphics on P4s, and used a nVidia 6200 LE to play burnout, so the 4650 was a huge upgrade for me.


----------



## akromatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Oh and here's a crazy thought:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow where did you get a neat tin like that? i want one


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akromatic*
> 
> wow where did you get a neat tin like that? i want one


Ebay









http://www.ebay.ca/itm/INTEL-LUNCHBOX-NEW-METAL-LUNCHBOX-VERY-NICE-GRAPHICS-VERY-RARE-LUNCH-PAIL-/160673131323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2568dd6b3b


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/INTEL-LUNCHBOX-NEW-METAL-LUNCHBOX-VERY-NICE-GRAPHICS-VERY-RARE-LUNCH-PAIL-/160673131323?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2568dd6b3b


lol look what i just got from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291113264472?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 
> 
> landlord is selling my place so I do have to sell one of my 280x. Used one fan from this card on the card i'm selling so I rigged up something on the spot. Furmark 68c


Was out of zip ties and my graphics card was already out of the system so speaker wire is it.


----------



## Carniflex

This probably is not quite ghetto enough for this thread.

A XFX 6770 Eyefinity 5 card with a northbridge block. Reason why it's probably not quite ghetto is that there is not enough tape, zip ties or glue gun in there. It just kinda works out of the box although the bolts used to mount it needed to be at slight alnge as the block mounting holes are not aligning up quite exactly. But the spirit of it is sort of there - making things work with whatever happens to be at hand.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Greatest coasters ever? Duct tape them to a GPU? Stock coolers suck, mostly because they're just solid aluminium with no heatpipes.


I use my spare 8350 heat sink as a coaster!


----------



## Roxycon

so, i got some outside of case ghetto for you guys









i went from;


to (the white wall outlet);


it's a 12V dc coupled up to a on/off-switch modded into my desk top and is powering two ccfl's



the end of the wall outlet got hooked up til a female molex, like this;


and is powering my new led-strips


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Umm guys, I've got a problem.

My poor little mobo is getting attacked by the evil console monster


















So I need a little help guys, guys ?



It's... hard.. to breathe... Getting swallowed.... alive.....


----------



## LordOfTots

Please tell me you're making a wii computer


----------



## Dimestore55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*


HOLY cold solder-joints BATMAN!!! What did you use to melt that, a curling iron?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordOfTots*
> 
> Please tell me you're making a wii computer


Whheeeeeeeee


----------



## chrisjames61

What is it with you Canadians? Lol!


----------



## Torvi

this is proper ghetto mod









http://9gag.com/gag/aVOBWKP


----------



## salamachaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> this is proper ghetto mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://9gag.com/gag/aVOBWKP


LOL! I should do this. They sell old G4 mac minis at the goodwill by my house for 25 dollars a piece.


----------



## Torvi

on your place i would actually mod it then to make it a sandwich box


----------



## salamachaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> on your place i would actually mod it then to make it a sandwich box


I don't know, wiping my butt with a mac mini seems appropriate somehow.


----------



## Scorpion667

So I catch the flu and right when I think it can't get any worse my PSU goes SNAP-CRACKLE-POP.
I go out and buy the 1300G2 and spent literally 2 minutes setting it up. Didn't even take out the dead PSU. I have a fever and a really bad cough, could care less about cable management atm


----------



## Torvi

He put 2 psu in one case so he thinks he is ghetto.

Dat guy xD


----------



## Roxycon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimestore55*
> 
> HOLY cold solder-joints BATMAN!!! What did you use to melt that, a curling iron?


Haha, that's my third time soldering anything so I don't know how to make it better than like that








I've used tools that is older than me though


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Haha, that's my third time soldering anything so I don't know how to make it better than like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've used tools that is older than me though


Aha - soldering iron you have to heat on hot coals







Hard to get more ghetto









Granted some of mine do not look much better or I just skip the soldering part, tie the wires togehter, spit on em and wrap in electric tape if saefty is important.


----------



## MCCSolutions

I JUST FOUND THIS CRAP OF A BUILD ON EBAY FOR $2000 LOL


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Lol, $2000 integrated GPU gaming machine. Now with ultra low power Celeron


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I JUST FOUND THIS CRAP OF A BUILD ON EBAY FOR $2000 LOL


If you want the best ghetto PC, you have to pay for it, and a custom made tin foil wrapping with christmas lights and duct tape doesn't come cheap.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Lol, $2000 integrated GPU gaming machine. Now with ultra low power Celeron


Now, now. Be nice. It has an unlocked Sandy i5. If Amazon and ebay prices are anything to go by, this is a steal if only for the CPU!


----------



## diesel678

Anyone ever had this problem with vintage HI-FI speakers? The rubber surrounding the drivers rots and corrodes and eventually falls out. Got these speakers for absolutely free which decided to literally shoot rubber out of the speakers when i was playing loud dubstep







Without the foam around the speakers the cone isnt centered and buzzes loudly when it grinds on the voice coil



Needless to say, i fixed them up with some circular cutouts from and old T-shirt stuck on with epoxy resin! Now they are sounding better than ever!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

You knopw, you can buy replacement surrounds...


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> You knopw, you can buy replacement surrounds...


but then it wouldn't be ghetto and it would cost money.


----------



## CMI86

Not as ghetto as some but I just had to get a piece of this awesome thread !!!


I can't tell if this is ghetto,crafty or just lazy, my fix to a vibrating side panel.


HTPC has no exhaust fan, solution hack a hole with tin snips in the side panel and scotch tape a blademaster to it !


Card sag ? Not when you tie some blue (matching of course) speaker wire to the end of the card and rig it to the top of the case !


----------



## Torvi

Guys i think i have a nice idea...

Many of you probably have those big and chunky cases with loads of free room inside isnt it? So then you know how spacetaking they are and incase you have a sub woofer for your speaker system, the place is even more decreased...

So my idea is to cut out a hole in front panel and shove your subwoofer inside. put the speaker-in's on side panels of case so your pc can actually become both pc and speaker system. isnt it brilliant?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

No. It would mess up the acoustics greatly, has the potential to create/add port chuff, they're very heavy, and the electro magnet in the speaker could potentially damage things.


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> No. It would mess up the acoustics greatly, has the potential to create/add port chuff, they're very heavy, and the electro magnet in the speaker could potentially damage things.


i remember in very old times (early 90's) i had a speaker inside of my case, i think it was actually a bios speaker. Dont give me that "wat" look, i just remember, im messing with pc's since 94 (since i was 4yr old)


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Yeah, but a bios speaker is like 1/2 inch, not 12.


----------



## Torvi

it still has a big ass magnet and the idea was to put teh sb with its original cover.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Magnetism should not mess with anything except maybe HDDs or ODDs. Solid state electronics generally aren't affected by it, so in an SSD-only system it ought to be fine. However, the acoustics would probably suck, yes. A couple small speakers wouldn't be bad for integrated sound actually, just in case you're on the go or something.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Guys, I have the coolest VRM heatsink or what?


----------



## cones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Yeah, but a bios speaker is like 1/2 inch, not 12.


I found a case that had a ~2 inch speaker on the front for the BIOS I hope.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> He put 2 psu in one case so he thinks he is ghetto.


Congratulations you missed the point completely


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Congratulations you missed the point completely


Congratulations, nobody see the point there except you. You maybe mean leds on gpu? wow so much ghetto.


----------



## animal0307

No need to be rude guys.

I believe the ghettoness was the part where he didn't bother to switch out the PSU just to get the system running.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Magnetism should not mess with anything except maybe HDDs or ODDs. Solid state electronics generally aren't affected by it, so in an SSD-only system it ought to be fine. However, the acoustics would probably suck, yes. A couple small speakers wouldn't be bad for integrated sound actually, just in case you're on the go or something.


Nah. Magnets won't be enough to do anything. Don't forget that HDDs have a strong neodymium magnet internally as well.

The real problem is bad acoustics and causing your hardware to rattle. Besides there isn't much space for a real sub


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> No need to be rude guys.
> 
> I believe the ghettoness was the part where he didn't bother to switch out the PSU just to get the system running.


this^


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Lol, $2000 integrated GPU gaming machine. Now with ultra low power Celeron


At least the color scheme is consistent


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> At least the color scheme is consistent


Hmm let's see... The water blocks are only the size of the CPU lid, everything is taped together.....









Yep, it's much more consistent than my build


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> Congratulations, nobody see the point there except you. You maybe mean leds on gpu? wow so much ghetto.


Woah woah woah. I surrender, you win buddy. hi5


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Hmm let's see... The water blocks are only the size of the CPU lid, everything is taped together.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, it's much more consistent than my build


Which is as consistent as a late-night barbeque party


----------



## philhalo66

Lots of ghetto rigging


----------



## Blooddrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> Anyone ever had this problem with vintage HI-FI speakers? The rubber surrounding the drivers rots and corrodes and eventually falls out. Got these speakers for absolutely free which decided to literally shoot rubber out of the speakers when i was playing loud dubstep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without the foam around the speakers the cone isnt centered and buzzes loudly when it grinds on the voice coil
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say, i fixed them up with some circular cutouts from and old T-shirt stuck on with epoxy resin! Now they are sounding better than ever!


That ghetto level is strong.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blooddrunk*
> 
> That ghetto level is strong.


thats the way it should be lol.


----------



## diesel678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> You knopw, you can buy replacement surrounds...


replace a vintage hi-fi? the fail is strong with this one


----------



## Driftmonkey

Better photos of my computer in progress.. can see that I did the sidewindow pretty poorly, I might start over and do it differently. Any ideas??


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Better photos of my computer in progress.. can see that I did the sidewindow pretty poorly, I might start over and do it differently. Any ideas??


yeah, ghetto : yank something from an old kitchen cabinet or a barn ...
http://img1.etsystatic.com/016/0/5887550/il_fullxfull.449517967_5hlc.jpg

or maybe some stained glass window (from chapel/church)


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Better photos of my computer in progress.. can see that I did the sidewindow pretty poorly, I might start over and do it differently. Any ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, ghetto : yank something from an old kitchen cabinet or a barn ...
> http://img1.etsystatic.com/016/0/5887550/il_fullxfull.449517967_5hlc.jpg
> 
> or maybe some stained glass window (from chapel/church)
Click to expand...

Dad works at a glass company so I could go in and grab nearly any offcuts I want. Thought about going glass but didn't want it cracking/snapping when moving the computer around, so the tinted perspex sheet from an LCD screen was the go, but when I get the chance I'll go for a thicker blue stained glass







Will update asap


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better photos of my computer in progress.. can see that I did the sidewindow pretty poorly, I might start over and do it differently. Any ideas??


*Step 1:

Loose that WC system, sereiously its like 10 years old lol

Step 2:

Get Pissed that I said that

Step 3:

Allow me to send you some free WC stuff!

Step 4:

Pimp your setup!

Step 5:

Post a pic here of your new setup

Step 6:

Decide not to worry about a silly side panel because it just looks so good now with it off!







*

EDIT: I understand now, I see your from NZ, it must be hard to get parts there sorry, I have alot of friends all over the world that have the same issue.....


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Side panels just make everything hotter. They're optional.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Dad works at a glass company so I could go in and grab nearly any offcuts I want. Thought about going glass but didn't want it cracking/snapping when moving the computer around, so the tinted perspex sheet from an LCD screen was the go, but when I get the chance I'll go for a thicker blue stained glass
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update asap


Mayhap custom made tempered glass? That stuff can take a lot of abuse and won't scratch like plastic will.


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> *Step 1:
> 
> Loose that WC system, sereiously its like 10 years old lol
> 
> Step 2:
> 
> Get Pissed that I said that
> 
> Step 3:
> 
> Allow me to send you some free WC stuff!
> 
> Step 4:
> 
> Pimp your setup!
> 
> Step 5:
> 
> Post a pic here of your new setup
> 
> Step 6:
> 
> Decide not to worry about a silly side panel because it just looks so good now with it off!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> EDIT: I understand now, I see your from NZ, it must be hard to get parts there sorry, I have alot of friends all over the world that have the same issue.....


Haha, yeah. The WC setup is ancient, I made a new perspex top for it cause the other was cracked to hell. I bought the setup online for $20, and the rest of the computer for $130. 6gb ram, q6600, etc etc. My priorities aren't really computers. I'd rather spend $1000 on a cheap car, and sell it on for profit







But I see you said "Allow me to send you some free WC stuff". You're right about computer parts being scarce and expensive in nz, dunno why.. wish they weren't, though.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Driftmonkey*
> 
> Haha, yeah. The WC setup is ancient, I made a new perspex top for it cause the other was cracked to hell. I bought the setup online for $20, and the rest of the computer for $130. 6gb ram, q6600, etc etc. My priorities aren't really computers. I'd rather spend $1000 on a cheap car, and sell it on for profit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I see you said "Allow me to send you some free WC stuff". You're right about computer parts being scarce and expensive in nz, dunno why.. wish they weren't, though.


What are the shipping rates like from the US?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> replace a vintage hi-fi? the fail is strong with this one


No, merely replace the acoustic suspension, like he did, just with the proper foam. Seeing as how you didn't know that surrounds also referred to that, the fail is pretty strong with you.

Besides, I'm about 99% sure those were never good in the first place.


----------



## WCrispy

I thought about shaping some plexi glass but never got around to it. Nothing is holding this in place but a wedge of folded cardboard, and surprisingly it stays put with no issues. I have all the sides and bezels torn off because I rebuilt the whole interior while trying to troubleshoot something.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCrispy*
> 
> I thought about shaping some plexi glass but never got around to it. Nothing is holding this in place but a wedge of folded cardboard, and surprisingly it stays put with no issues. I have all the sides and bezels torn off because I rebuilt the whole interior while trying to troubleshoot something.


Looks good. I thought it was wood before realizing it's cardboard lol.


----------



## WCrispy

I'm browsing through the thread but there are so many posts. It reminded me of this site from way back in the day. If no one has posted it yet I'll be surprised:



http://totl.net/Eunuch/index.html


----------



## CMI86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCrispy*
> 
> I'm browsing through the thread but there are so many posts. It reminded me of this site from way back in the day. If no one has posted it yet I'll be surprised:
> 
> 
> 
> http://totl.net/Eunuch/index.html


I am going to try this with an older rig just to see if the condensation would be an Issue. If not, beer mini fridge PC in the works !


----------



## Driftmonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> What are the shipping rates like from the US?


Wouldn't have a clue, but I'd be happy to pay for the shipping, as I imagine it wouldn't be too extreme. Main things I was thinking of replacing was the radiator and the pump, waterblock seems to be holding up fine


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CMI86*
> 
> I am going to try this with an older rig just to see if the condensation would be an Issue. If not, beer mini fridge PC in the works !


When in doubt, spray paint it. With a coat of paint I can spill drinks on my mobo all day long.


----------



## CMI86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> When in doubt, spray paint it. With a coat of paint I can spill drinks on my mobo all day long.


Just don't use metallic flake right lol ?


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CMI86*
> 
> Just don't use metallic flake right lol ?


This^ lolz.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCrispy*
> 
> I'm browsing through the thread but there are so many posts. It reminded me of this site from way back in the day. If no one has posted it yet I'll be surprised:
> 
> 
> 
> http://totl.net/Eunuch/index.html


LOL, this is wrong on so many levels!

I mean, if doing this, should use Strongbow or Lambrini or White Lightning (Woodchuck Draft Cider for the yanks) to complete the picture


----------



## mosi

I found something on an old backup CD...
What you see here

looks inconspicuous enough

... and can actually be opened.. but what might that be

Well...There's fans on the backside

And some sort of box on the inside...




Spoiler: You might have guessed it..



It is (or rather was) a TEC powered mini fridge








Back in the days I got fed up with lukewarm coke on lan parties and decided to do something about it. A 1L bottle of coke fit inside, maybe even 1.5L. Finding a PSU that could dish out the additional amps on the 12V rail for the TEC was kind of a challenge back in 2001. I think it ended up with a 550W server unit or something.
The TEC was sandwiched between two enormous heatsinks and cooled via 2 Papst high powered fans. The small holes on the sides are actually for the air exhaust. It was switchable by the flip switch on the front panel and sounded like a jet engine. The tiny fan inside is for moving the cold air around thereby optimizing the cooling performance.
Water condensation on the cold plate was sky high but some tissue laid out in the back of the case fixed that nicely.

Ah I liked that little contraption


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That is either the best or worst thing you can possibly do with a fridge. Good job, I think!


----------



## mosi

Back then it was the killer! It also worked for food so it was pretty awesome. Today I'd probably still put coke in there but keep a bottle of rum nearby


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Suddenly I want an ATX full tower for an mATX system so I can stick a fridge in the bottom. There is no way this can possibly go wrong or be ineffective for a LAN rig.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Is Power Mac G5 for $40 worth it?

It's PSU is broken, might not have the CPU. By the way are the CPUs on those old Macs soldered?


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> So I catch the flu and right when I think it can't get any worse my PSU goes SNAP-CRACKLE-POP.
> I go out and buy the 1300G2 and spent literally 2 minutes setting it up. Didn't even take out the dead PSU. I have a fever and a really bad cough, could care less about cable management atm


Fractal Design.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Is Power Mac G5 for $40 worth it?
> 
> It's PSU is broken, might not have the CPU. By the way are the CPUs on those old Macs soldered?


For the case er ... Not worth it since the rest of is broken. And yes it is soldered. Only worth it if it had the AIO in it. Those are DDCs in them


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Anyone know the pinout of those Mac Pro fans? I got that G5 and took everything apart. Plugged a 3 blade fan onto my X58 SLI and I fried the fan.

Man those heatsinks are huge lol. They even put a heatsink o the VRMs.


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Is Power Mac G5 for $40 worth it?
> 
> It's PSU is broken, might not have the CPU. By the way are the CPUs on those old Macs soldered?


ZIF daughterboards, IIRC.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I made my HD4650 completely passive by zip tieing a Mac Pro G5 VRM heatsink onto it.

It maxes out at 50C when running NFS Hot Pursuit 2 at max settings


----------



## cones

Not sure if that's so much passive with that fan right there. That's a big heatsink for a VRM.


----------



## Torvi

this gpu must hate you for doing with it what you already doin ;d


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I made my HD4650 completely passive by zip tieing a Mac Pro G5 VRM heatsink onto it.
> 
> It maxes out at 50C when running NFS Hot Pursuit 2 at max settings


That game is so good! And wow what an awesome GPU. It probably hates it's existence!


----------



## cones

Is that the real NFS hot pursuit 2 or the remake one?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

That is the 2002 original. Bought it twice lol.

Poor HD4650, it went through so much!


Spoiler: It survived a paint dunk.










Spoiler: A spray paint.









Spoiler: A CPU heatsink mod.







And now this lol.

I feel like an evil scientist.

Next up: use the insanely loud and fast Delta fans that came with the Mac to cool my mining rig.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

...Does the 4650 still work? Oh, and what motherboard standard does the G5 case use? I kind of want to get one for a custom build, just without the big Apple logo on the side.


----------



## Gereti

i think, i had same 4650
sapphire radeon 4650 1gb from my acer aspire m3203
i replaced it with sapphire radeon 3850 512mb

then on one day, i had 4650 on top of one case, waiting to put on one computer, and then i get it falling on floor from, maby 40cm high case, and broke it ;/


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> ...Does the 4650 still work? Oh, and what motherboard standard does the G5 case use? I kind of want to get one for a custom build, just without the big Apple logo on the side.


Of course it works. I ran NFS P2 on it.

ATX mobo will not fit very well. I only managed to line up 1 hole. LOL.

The mobo is wierd. The fan connectors can't be used for regular fans. It uses a 24 pin for mobo, 8 pin for Sata. It also as a 16 pin, probably for CPU?

But newer Mac should be different. The one I have uses Power PC CPU, which is made by IBM.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cones*
> 
> Is that the real NFS hot pursuit 2 or the remake one?


The OG one for sure!


----------



## cones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> The OG one for sure!


Good the new one just doesn't look the same.


----------



## animal0307

Had troubles with GPU. Broke down the loop and re-installed stock cooling. GPU seems to be working magically now so I re-installed the block and wanted to test with out breaking down the whole loop. So far so good. Jug is nice and warm after a 5 min session of Furmark


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> That is the 2002 original. Bought it twice lol.
> 
> Poor HD4650, it went through so much!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: It survived a paint dunk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A spray paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: A CPU heatsink mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now this lol.
> 
> I feel like an evil scientist.


At what point does ghetto turn into hardware abuse? This is just cruel. Someone re home that GPU XD


----------



## mosi

That
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Of course it works. I ran NFS P2 on it.


That poor thing looks like a Franken-ATI or something. You truly are an evil scientist


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Time to recycle my Mac G5's PSU


----------



## szeged

not mine but hilarious still

AC goes out? np.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> not mine but hilarious still
> 
> AC goes out? np.


My friend in Toronto bought two 30cm DC fans. It doesn't cover the etire window so he used cardboard to cover the gaps, lol. Good thing it doesn't rain much in Toronto.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Hello everyone, and yes, I came back to show you my poor 24/24h old PC (*478 Pentium IV - 3.0GHz - HT*), improved many times during these years..this is the "_next level_"..

Home made water cooling sistem, made entirely out of used or free pieces, exept for the radiator that actually cost me about 15€ (~15$) and the aquarium submersible pump (6€).













*Made a simple gasket:*







*Waterblock complete..*







*Mounting on the main board:*





*The pump is in a temporary bowl built out of a DVD can:*



*The radiator with two 140 TR fans:*









*First test of the loop:*















*...*


----------



## TheBrowno

Impressive, what was the cooling performance and reliability like?


----------



## RnRollie

lol, nice job









If this is not a mission-critical machine, i won't say anything like _"So you've cut up an ALUMINIUM HS and teamed it up with an brass/copper rad..."_


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> Impressive, what was the cooling performance and reliability like?


Thanks!!









These points will be discovered during next weeks of work, I had not enogh time to build and also check the system performance.

At the moment I just know that in IDLE the temperatures dropped down from *38/42°C (~104°F)* to *24/27°C (~77°F)* and thats really impressive for a simple system like that, but in the next days I will check for other info like _noise_ (just from the fans, the pump is really silent), _temperatures_ and _possible problems_.

The system survived to 10hours of 100% full CPU, and everything was fine: no leaks  or any type of problem.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> lol, nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If this is not a mission-critical machine, i won't say anything like _"So you've cut up an ALUMINIUM HS and teamed it up with an brass/copper rad..."_


Thanks for the advice, and don't worry, I double checked before building the entire system, and the RAD ia actually made in alluminium, is an old type of radiator, not made out of copper









I was aware about this particular problem, and hopefuly I managed to avoid it.


----------



## legoman786

Did some more work to it:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1477256/hp-dv2740se-overheating/0_100

Penny heatsink!

Still need to chop it up. I'll get pics of that.


----------



## Torvi

Not really a mod just... just check it out xD



Currently looking for some normal headphones stand


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> Not really a mod just... just check it out xD
> 
> 
> 
> Currently looking for some normal headphones stand


Not ghetto enough...



Sorry for a lousy pic, my potato can't take pics right now so I had to use a pickle instead.

By the way, those headphones are ghetto'd as well. I bought a pair of those noise cancelling headphones guys on building sites use for $2 along with a pair of $1 PC headphones off eBay, drilled a few holes in the noise canceling headphones for the cables and speakers to be used from that $1 junk, then after some disassembling, soldering work and assembling, I got those.

Best headphones I ever owned, and they cost me 1/3 the price of the cheapest Chinese crap I could buy around here.


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Not ghetto enough...
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for a lousy pic, my potato can't take pics right now so I had to use a pickle instead.
> 
> By the way, those headphones are ghetto'd as well. I bought a pair of those noise cancelling headphones guys on building sites use for $2 along with a pair of $1 PC headphones off eBay, drilled a few holes in the noise canceling headphones for the cables and speakers to be used from that $1 junk, then after some disassembling, soldering work and assembling, I got those.
> 
> Best headphones I ever owned, and they cost me 1/3 the price of the cheapest Chinese crap I could buy around here.


oh god this cable sphagetti, my eyes bleeds

my cable managment:
yup potato camera here also.



i just sticked my extender to the metal leg with heavy duty adehasive pads that was 2gbp and they stick it well


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> oh god this cable sphagetti, my eyes bleeds


Hey, that's not even bad, I cleaned it up before I took the pic. Those cables are just three cellphone chargers, PSU, monitor, stereo, LED music box adapter, and another extender that stands a bit out of the pic with my TV amp cable, another PSU, two desk lamps, drill charger, battery-powered vacuum cleaner and my electronics test bench plugged into it.

You should have seen it before I moved the rest of the stuff away, there were 5 adapters, a bunch of cable pieces and two disassembled PSUs with stripped wires plugged directly into the extender's power outlet alongside what's currently there. Used to be a lot more neat a few months ago but back then the extender was attached to the desk leg which I had to take off when I got a bigger case, damn thing couldn't fit under the desk otherwise. The extender is still screwed onto the ripped off desk leg though, I'm too lazy to take it off.









And I just saw the thermal paste I was looking for in the pic, right behind the cable mess. That saves me some time, I'd have to use callus cream otherwise which needs a few hours of IBT to burn-in.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Hey, that's not even bad, I cleaned it up before I took the pic. Those cables are just three cellphone chargers, PSU, monitor, stereo, LED music box adapter, and another extender that stands a bit out of the pic with my TV amp cable, another PSU, two desk lamps, drill charger, battery-powered vacuum cleaner and my electronics test bench plugged into it.
> 
> You should have seen it before I moved the rest of the stuff away, there were 5 adapters, a bunch of cable pieces and two disassembled PSUs with stripped wires plugged directly into the extender's power outlet alongside what's currently there. Used to be a lot more neat a few months ago but back then the extender was attached to the desk leg which I had to take off when I got a bigger case, damn thing couldn't fit under the desk otherwise. The extender is still screwed onto the ripped off desk leg though, I'm too lazy to take it off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I just saw the thermal paste I was looking for in the pic, right behind the cable mess. That saves me some time, I'd have to use callus cream otherwise which needs a few hours of IBT to burn-in.


You should spray paint everything to prevent electrocution.


----------



## Kpd2003

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> *Step 1:
> 
> Loose that WC system, sereiously its like 10 years old lol
> 
> Step 2:
> 
> Get Pissed that I said that
> 
> Step 3:
> 
> Allow me to send you some free WC stuff!
> 
> Step 4:
> 
> Pimp your setup!
> 
> Step 5:
> 
> Post a pic here of your new setup
> 
> Step 6:
> 
> Decide not to worry about a silly side panel because it just looks so good now with it off!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> EDIT: I understand now, I see your from NZ, it must be hard to get parts there sorry, I have alot of friends all over the world that have the same issue.....


Hah, I'll take that offer!


----------



## Teplous

wondering if anyone here knows if i can use the stock heatsink from my LGA 1150 i7 on a LGA 1155 Celeron, if not not is the something i can do to make it work


----------



## Jack Mac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> wondering if anyone here knows if i can use the stock heatsink from my LGA 1150 i7 on a LGA 1155 Celeron, if not not is the something i can do to make it work


AFAIK you should be able to use it just fine, I believe all the LGA 115X have the same pinouts for coolers.


----------



## t00sl0w

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> Hello everyone, and yes, I came back to show you my poor 24/24h old PC (*478 Pentium IV - 3.0GHz - HT*), improved many times during these years..this is the "_next level_"..
> 
> Home made water cooling sistem, made entirely out of used or free pieces, exept for the radiator that actually cost me about 15€ (~15$) and the aquarium submersible pump (6€).


dude, this is rather amazing


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> AFAIK you should be able to use it just fine, I believe all the LGA 115X have the same pinouts for coolers.


Cool thank you


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t00sl0w*
> 
> dude, this is rather amazing


Thanks a lot









I love cheap projects, when possibile: meets the huge amount of "stuff" I have at home with my home-made necessities









For who is interested, this was my first attempt for the waterblock..of course it didn't worked


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

This just got real. I should of post it in the SFF club, but I'm too lazy to find the thread.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> This just got real. I should of post it in the SFF club, but I'm too lazy to find the thread.


nice case.


----------



## Torvi




----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Nice box for a mini ITX board!

Now I'm planning to buy a brand new Gigabyte motherboard based on the Intel j1800/j1900 .. here in Italy are available from this week on, we had to wait quite a lot


----------



## WCrispy

I dunno how I missed this. I had this crappy old lapel mic like 10 years ago and the cable broke. I gutted it, soldered some old speaker wire to the mic and used JB Weld, a Bic pen, and a bent section of coat-hanger. This thing has lasted forever and it works great. It fits under any full-cup headphones.



All those posts of headphones and whatnot reminded me to snap a picture, and whenever I look at it I always think of Vork from The Guild.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WCrispy*
> 
> I dunno how I missed this. I had this crappy old lapel mic like 10 years ago and the cable broke. I gutted it, soldered some old speaker wire to the mic and used JB Weld, a Bic pen, and a bent section of coat-hanger. This thing has lasted forever and it works great. It fits under any full-cup headphones.
> 
> 
> 
> All those posts of headphones and whatnot reminded me to snap a picture, and whenever I look at it I always think of Vork from The Guild.


\

Sweet mother of a ghetto. That is a true piece of ingenuity! I need to get a mic, so I'll probably make some king of ghetto solution similar to yours.


----------



## akromatic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> this is proper ghetto mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://9gag.com/gag/aVOBWKP


that inspires me for the new mac pro mod, just gut it and turn it into a trash can


----------



## demoship

Hmm, a home made water block seems like the one thing I would NOT want to skimp on.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akromatic*
> 
> that inspires me for the new mac pro mod, just gut it and turn it into a trash can


http://9to5mac.com/2014/01/14/2013-mac-pro-style-hackintosh-based-on-actual-trashcan/


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demoship*
> 
> Hmm, a home made water block seems like the one thing I would NOT want to skimp on.










for old PC's all this and more, actually the WB works pretty well







better than I could expect.



*@ccRicers*

That's amazing


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Ahh, good times.

Notice the ghetto cable not management


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Not ghetto enough...
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for a lousy pic, my potato can't take pics right now so I had to use a pickle instead.
> 
> By the way, those headphones are ghetto'd as well. I bought a pair of those noise cancelling headphones guys on building sites use for $2 along with a pair of $1 PC headphones off eBay, drilled a few holes in the noise canceling headphones for the cables and speakers to be used from that $1 junk, then after some disassembling, soldering work and assembling, I got those.
> 
> Best headphones I ever owned, and they cost me 1/3 the price of the cheapest Chinese crap I could buy around here.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*


You, sir, win. That is win.


----------



## MCCSolutions

I







This thread!


----------



## Unknownm

Bought some zip ties finally. No screws anymore.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Good, at least you zip tied it. The last time I did something like this I broke a fan blade because it ran into some other fan.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Ahh, good times.
> 
> Notice the ghetto cable not management


Ohey! Are those 2 R9 280x Turboduos? I bought the same GPU


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Good, at least you zip tied it. The last time I did something like this I broke a fan blade because it ran into some other fan.


ouch! hope it wasn't a expensive fan


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Ohey! Are those 2 R9 280x Turboduos? I bought the same GPU


Yep







I like the Club3D one the best though. Looks > Performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> ouch! hope it wasn't a expensive fan


Well, it broke the stock fan on my 7870 XFX Core Edition.

Ended up selling it and a 5850 to an OCNer for $120 shipped to US lol.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

It broke an XFX fan? Probably for the best, actually. Not a fan of their crap coolers at all.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the Club3D one the best though. Looks > Performance.
> Well, it broke the stock fan on my 7870 XFX Core Edition.
> 
> Ended up selling it and a 5850 to an OCNer for $120 shipped to US lol.


I dunno man, i think the coolest 7970s are the turboduos. sexy backplate and nice fan shroud. Also this is a tahiti XTL so it's MUCH less power hungry than a standard 7970 or a r9 280x


----------



## CMI86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I dunno man, i think the coolest 7970s are the turboduos. sexy backplate and nice fan shroud. Also this is a tahiti XTL so it's MUCH less power hungry than a standard 7970 or a r9 280x


Beautiful cards man, kudos. The 7970 turbo duos kind of look like an asus DCU II from the front. Sexiest GPU of all time "IMHO" has to be the XFX 280X DD tho. I know XFX is crap but damn that cooler looks nice lol. Or a GTX 690, nice looking too !


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

XFX did their homework this time, my 280X BE runs cool.

The cooler looked so good that I almost forgave them for the crappy temps on my 7870.

For some reason I really like the look of the reference cooler on my GTX 280


----------



## hartofwave

I found a hp compaq at the dump today, thought I would ninja it for fun, and after removing the oil form the dimms I broke one of the cpu retention clips! But there is nothing two paperclips can't fix.


----------



## CMI86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> XFX did their homework this time, my 280X BE runs cool.
> 
> The cooler looked so good that I almost forgave them for the crappy temps on my 7870.
> 
> For some reason I really like the look of the reference cooler on my GTX 280


Haha I used to have the GTX-260 and I remember really liking the looks of the reference cooler as well.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

these are some pics of my double pc mod ...the screen is actually a netbook that i custom fit in the front of my coolermaster 690 2 advanced case


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> these are some pics of my double pc mod ...the screen is actually a netbook that i custom fit in the front of my coolermaster 690 2 advanced case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


omg spoiler me next time. thats too many pics and that will be all we get on this page.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CMI86*
> 
> Beautiful cards man, kudos. The 7970 turbo duos kind of look like an asus DCU II from the front. Sexiest GPU of all time "IMHO" has to be the XFX 280X DD tho. I know XFX is crap but damn that cooler looks nice lol. Or a GTX 690, nice looking too !


You looked at the R9 280x Turboduo right?







Yeah the similarity is pretty striking but the DCU II just looks monstrous.


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

http://s261.photobucket.com/user/Xx...740D5B95-BB11-414C-86C4-57B115C251E7.jpg.html

My new ghetto case im building with parts i have in my room. The silver piece is actually an old imac bezel.


----------



## Teplous

My new Ventilo Server


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> these are some pics of my double pc mod ...the screen is actually a netbook that i custom fit in the front of my coolermaster 690 2 advanced case


Where is the "Ghetto" That looks legit to me!


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new Ventilo Server


make some small holes on sides so air will have a way out


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Ghetto "work"station.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I don't think it's ghetto, just filthy.

Mine isn't a whole lot better, but there isn't any tp on it...


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I also don't have TP on my desk; I keep it in a drawer.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> make some small holes on sides so air will have a way out


Thanks, I'll keep that in mind, do you think I should remove the cardboard from under the mobo?


----------



## Torvi

nah keep it like this


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I'll try to be more ghetto next time...


----------



## hollywood406

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Ghetto "work"station.










Who doesn't have a roll of TP on their desk??


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> nah keep it like this


Right now it's sitting down bolted against a piece of cardboard, what I was asking was should I give the underside of the mobo room to breathe?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> Right now it's sitting down bolted against a piece of cardboard, what I was asking was should I give the underside of the mobo room to breathe?


You'd be fine. I run my mobos directly on sheet of paper 24/7 without issues.

Eg: anywhere from FX6100 to i7 920 OCed.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> You'd be fine. I run my mobos directly on sheet of paper 24/7 without issues.
> 
> Eg: anywhere from FX6100 to i7 920 OCed.


Awesome thanks


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hollywood406*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who doesn't have a roll of TP on their desk??


me? when I need to blow my nose I just go outside, press in one side of my nose and blow out the other. Clears up everything and saves some paper.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> me? when I need to blow my nose I just go outside, press in one side of my nose and blow out the other. Clears up everything and saves some paper.


Haha, i do this too when i'm on outside, easy way to clean nose


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> 
> 
> My new Ventilo Server


you seem to be short a CPU


----------



## MCCSolutions

Doing better than my desk lol..... Current state of my desk until I get my mobo from RMA...



And my makeshift desk lol complete with back scratcher


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> me? when I need to blow my nose I just go outside, press in one side of my nose and blow out the other. Clears up everything and saves some paper.


Euuu, I'd hate to be your neighboor. Anyways, that was for clearing off thermal paste.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> And my makeshift desk lol complete with back scratcher


Back scratcher? Back scratcher!


----------



## richie_2010

i use either a door frame or a old 3 pronged long meat fork thing that i have in a drawer next to me.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Lol maybe I will open a Artisan thread and sell custom back scratchers lol


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> me? when I need to blow my nose I just go outside, press in one side of my nose and blow out the other. Clears up everything and saves some paper.


You go outside?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> you seem to be short a CPU


Minor detail.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> i use either a door frame or a old 3 pronged long meat fork thing that i have in a drawer next to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Lol maybe I will open a Artisan thread and sell custom back scratchers lol


What's next? Custom engravings on you back scratcher?

Customly fitted back scratchers?

3D printed back scratchers?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You go outside?


Ohhh' feel the burn !


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> i use either a door frame or a old 3 pronged long meat fork thing that i have in a drawer next to me.


I was working a Renaissance Festival a few years ago and had to borrow something from some musician friends to get at an itch under my bodice. The friends were out shopping after hours, spotted a traditional back scratcher, and bought for me as a gag. Some gag; I'm still using it! I keep it hanging on the head board of my bed since I almost invariably get a back itch as soon as I get comfortable in bed just before going to sleep.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> What's next? Custom engravings on you back scratcher?
> 
> Customly fitted back scratchers?
> 
> 3D printed back scratchers?


I was thinking custom painted and logo/names to match builds! I mite roll with this idea. They would be getting authentic Korean back scratchers the best kind


----------



## von rottes

The little bitty fan in my Xbox power brick died....so I did this.



glued/taped and Intel PGA478 cooler fan to the top of it...
Good news is now it's silent and doesn't even get warm now


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

There's a fan in that thing? Huh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I was thinking custom painted and logo/names to match builds! I mite roll with this idea. They would be getting authentic Korean back scratchers the best kind


I have a feeling that Korean back scratchers won't catch on quite as well as Korean IPS monitors.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> There's a fan in that thing? Huh.
> I have a feeling that Korean back scratchers won't catch on quite as well as Korean IPS monitors.


You never know. Look how well pet rocks did for a while.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> There's a fan in that thing? Huh.
> I have a feeling that Korean back scratchers won't catch on quite as well as Korean IPS monitors.


It does. Well 200W (If you have the old one) through a adaptor of that size surely involves a fan.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> you seem to be short a CPU


It should be coming in tomorrow =)


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> The little bitty fan in my Xbox power brick died....so I did this.
> 
> 
> 
> glued/taped and Intel PGA478 cooler fan to the top of it...
> Good news is now it's silent and doesn't even get warm now


Holy crap! That's the size of the PSU for the 360? Thats insane! The one in the ps3 is built in.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Holy crap! That's the size of the PSU for the 360? Thats insane! The one in the ps3 is built in.


Well the innards of a xbox 360 is really cramped already. The one in the PS3 is not small by any means either. The newer Xbox 360 Slims have much smaller power supplies now


----------



## cones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Holy crap! That's the size of the PSU for the 360? Thats insane! The one in the ps3 is built in.


The 360's also had a tendency to overheat even without the PSU inside of them. The ps3 was designed to have the PSU in it, i think for the 360 it was a "you guys forgot about the PSU, what do we do with it now?".


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Euuu, I'd hate to be your neighboor. Anyways, that was for clearing off thermal paste.


The house next to me is for sale and no one lives in it. So my neighbors don't hate me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You go outside?


Yes it's called a job. Also when I want something something from the dealer







or if I want a few cans of energy, but besides that I'm always inside.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cones*
> 
> The 360's also had a tendency to overheat even without the PSU inside of them. The ps3 was designed to have the PSU in it, i think for the 360 it was a "you guys forgot about the PSU, what do we do with it now?".


Lol even Microsoft was ghetto like us


----------



## Teplous

what kind of paint should i use to paint ram?
could i use water based acrylics?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> what kind of paint should i use to paint ram?
> could i use water based acrylics?


I would go with am oil based acrylic, no risk of conduction. Or be ghetto and use some wall paint.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I would go with am oil based acrylic, no risk of conduction. Or be ghetto and use some wall paint.


Ok cool thanks


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

You gotta love the APUs.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> You gotta love the APUs.


Lol. Some prefesh painting right there. 5800k?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Yep, runs L4D perfectly


----------



## MCCSolutions

New Test Bench lol..... Made from a 27" IPS LED LCD Stand and a 17" LCD Backing......










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Looking over this thread, I've figured out that there's a fine line between "ghetto rigging" and "sheer, unadulterated genius rigging."


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Looking over this thread, I've figured out that there's a fine line between "ghetto rigging" and "sheer, unadulterated genius rigging."


True, but some people are so smart that some of there creations they refer to as ghetto, they just cannot see it!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Looking over this thread, I've figured out that there's a fine line between "ghetto rigging" and "sheer, unadulterated genius rigging."
> 
> 
> 
> True, but some people are so smart that some of there creations they refer to as ghetto, they just cannot see it!
Click to expand...

Hell, some of these can go into a specialized LifeHack blog dedicated to computers.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Hell, some of these can go into a specialized LifeHack blog dedicated to computers.


That actually sounds like a good idea, you should start a thread on here called "Overclocked Life Hacks" or something lol


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> New Test Bench lol..... Made from a 27" IPS LED LCD Stand and a 17" LCD Backing......


That one is good. Should mod it to stand up like a monitor and stand it up like one


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> That one is good. Should mod it to stand up like a monitor and stand it up like one


Lol its funny that you say that because that was the stands original orientation lol, I actually had to mod the stand to get it Horizontal, but I can actually move it vertical as well! Just haven't installed stand offs yet so gotta keep it gravity grounded lol


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> That one is good. Should mod it to stand up like a monitor and stand it up like one


And slap a monitor on the other side. The ghetto monoblock.


----------



## Pawelr98

PSP-3004 "audiophile edition"



1800mAH original FAT battery (allows a really long usage)
2x4gb cards,one is placed in the UMD drive(there's a metal bar that holds the card when the drive is closed)
CFW-6.20 PRO-C Permanent Patch for some apps
FiiO e07k as headphone AMP

The psp itself has a pretty clear sound but it doesn't have enough power to handle 64ohm headphones. With AMP the sound quality is just incredible for such old console.
I think I will buy one of those cable remote controls to allow changing tracks without pulling the console out of a pocket. But I will cut off the 3.5mm jack because the cable is low quality. I just need the controls.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

How exactly does the map make the sound cleaner than the source?


----------



## DaveLT

It lessens the load on the psp's DAC which is incapable of driving higher impedance headphones which thus will distort but if it's lessened the load will be transferred to the E07k instead.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Ghetto power panel.


Can you find my main rig ?!


Ponies


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> PSP-3004 "audiophile edition"
> 
> 
> 
> 1800mAH original FAT battery (allows a really long usage)
> 2x4gb cards,one is placed in the UMD drive(there's a metal bar that holds the card when the drive is closed)
> CFW-6.20 PRO-C Permanent Patch for some apps
> FiiO e07k as headphone AMP
> 
> The psp itself has a pretty clear sound but it doesn't have enough power to handle 64ohm headphones. With AMP the sound quality is just incredible for such old console.
> I think I will buy one of those cable remote controls to allow changing tracks without pulling the console out of a pocket. But I will cut off the 3.5mm jack because the cable is low quality. I just need the controls.


That is some creative insanity. I've got a psp go with pro c 6.20 permanent, pretty good SNES machine.


----------



## Werne

Well, I ordered a $1.6 USB wifi dongle off eBay two weeks ago and it came in today. Plugged it in, connected to my router, 17% signal strength and it worked like crap, took it nearly five minutes to load Google.










So I did some thinking and decided that I need a can.


I had a can of peas I used for screws which was perfect for the job, I already made a hole for the USB before I took that pic. Then I drilled two more holes to screw in a USB header from an old case to it, and this is how that looked.

And yes, those are leopard-pattern sheets on my bed.









With the dongle inserted.

Removed the plastic case from the damn thing which yielded a small boost in signal strength.

Here's the finished product inside the ermm... case!









Canned wifi, the best kind there is.







This thing went from 17% signal strength to 45%, it's now almost as fast as the wifi card in my desktop.

By the way, that fan on the CPU heatsink is the latest addition, there was an 800RPM 120mm GlideStream mounted there before. Now I have a 2000RPM Arctic F8 PWM Pro shoved into a shroud of some cheap piece of crap Chinese fan that died, just ripped out the fan's motor and blades along with the motor supports and left the shroud. I broke the frame on the F8 a while back and now I wanted to silence the cardboard PC with it, that stock AMD fan from those 125W coolers is screaming fury. But I had no zip-ties to fasten this thing onto the heatsink and it's Easter, no stores are open, so I had to sacrifice an old work boot and tie the fan down with it's shoe lace.

The fan shroud is tied to the heatpipes and it's pressed nice and firm against the heatsink, the shoe lace is also pressing the F8 into the shroud so it doesn't fall off which is a double win. Works better than the stock 5000RPM fan too, CPU got 5C cooler.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's... it's so... beautiful...


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Can you find my main rig ?!


Not enought computer stuff


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I like that, not only did you try this, but it's a viable solution. I need to keep that in mind.

EDIT: The antenna, of course.


----------



## Torvi

i just had a quickie idea for supercooled rig.

Put your mobo inside of airsealed lunchbox, cut out hole for cpu cooler on the cover and make a seal there too, then put it inside of freezer.

pro paint sketch by me:


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

You would be better of hacking the freezer and using its coolant and radiator.


----------



## Torvi

its just an idea and housemates wouldnt be happy if i would destroy the freezer xD


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I like that, not only did you try this, but it's a viable solution. I need to keep that in mind.


Well, it was easy and inexpensive to make so I took a shot and it worked surprisingly well, the only hard part was punching holes in it for the USB and screws. No matter what anyone says, holding the blade of a swiss army knife against a tin can and hitting the handle with a speaker is not a very good idea.

By the way, my first try at improving the signal strength was using a cigarette box with a cut-off top and a hole in the bottom to push a USB through. That thing got 36% signal so I went all-out and made it out of a tin can thinking bigger is better, and I was right. If wanting the dongle to remain small/mobile, a cigarette box, or anything with an aluminum wrapping, can be used and be quite effective at boosting the signal while remaining small, a tin can is all around much better but it's more of a stationary solution.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Can you find my main rig ?!


i want that power mac g5


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> i want that power mac g5


Just an empty chassis now.

All its guts are scattered around my room, all its heatsinks are being used for something else.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Can you find my main rig ?!


The box which is on the pc case next to the black chair.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That is some creative insanity. I've got a psp go with pro c 6.20 permanent, pretty good SNES machine.


Thanks

The AMP also allowed to fix one thing. SuperLux hd681 have a little too strong bass. So I have set Treble +2. Now everything sounds better (before, the bass could "cover" some sounds).
Psp without AMP can handle the headphones but the sound is little "underpowered".
Psp can play 1411kbps(16bit) WAVE music. Ofc it cannot match the same music played from pc through usb input but the quality is much better than 320kbps mp3.
1411kbps played from psp can beat 320kbps played from pc.


----------



## DrClaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volcom13*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temp cooling. Hot as hell in my room. I have my window open, and I'm using this fan to just pump air into the case.


get some kind of flexible dust filter to cover the fan, then put one phonebook underneath your computer case at the front, then put a second phone book underneath the back

i did that with my case since leaving a case on the floor will pick up alot more dust in the long run.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Just an empty chassis now.
> 
> All its guts are scattered around my room, all its heatsinks are being used for something else.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volcom13*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temp cooling. Hot as hell in my room. I have my window open, and I'm using this fan to just pump air into the case.


I have that case and made it through a summer in phoenix without ac... with an overclocked PhII... some suggestions so you don't have to blow dust into your computer with a room fan.

1) orient the cpu cooler facing up at the big fan on the top of the case. (note: some tower coolers actually don't work well in this orientation, so keep an eye on temps.
2) use 2 fans in push/pull on the cpu cooler.
3) arange a fan inside the case to draw air from the bottom, past the gpu to the cpu. I actually placed the fan with string, angled at 45 degrees behind the top hard drive cage, pointing at the cpu cooler
4) add a blower style fan over the top of your gpu, you can get these for $5-$15; it was fantastic for sucking hot air out of the case generated by the gpu.
5) if you don't have a blower style gpu cooler... add a fan under the gpu to blow air at the gpu heatsink.
6) turn the power supply so the fan faces up. this actually will result in a drop in temps for both the case and psu (if the fan faces down it doesn't get good airflow as the case just doesn't have a vent in the bottom for the psu fan, worse, the hot side of the psu is allowed to radiate into the case.
7) experiment with the door fan... i found it actually worked better sucking air out of the case... however i since returned it to blowing air into the case, as i have AC and my mosfets love the cool air (i no longer have a tower cooler too)


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrClaw*
> 
> get some kind of flexible dust filter to cover the fan, then put one phonebook underneath your computer case at the front, then put a second phone book underneath the back
> 
> i did that with my case since leaving a case on the floor will pick up alot more dust in the long run.


i would rather mount the dust cover on the open side of case with some doublesided magnetic stripes


----------



## DrClaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> i would rather mount the dust cover on the open side of case with some doublesided magnetic stripes


thats a great idea, more dust proof the better though, i will still dust proof the fan


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> its just an idea and housemates wouldnt be happy if i would destroy the freezer xD


Putting a consistent heat-source inside it would destroy it more reliably than modding it to act as heatsink







Freezers are pretty low power as far as cooling goes. The idea of them is to run in bursts, and relying on insulation to keep the temp meanwhile. And if you do decide to mod one then it's advisable to do so in exceptionally well ventilated location as the coolant gas in there is moderately toxic. Possibly - depending on the age of your unit and what exactly has the manufacturer used in there.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrClaw*
> 
> get some kind of flexible dust filter to cover the fan, then put one phonebook underneath your computer case at the front, then put a second phone book underneath the back
> 
> i did that with my case since leaving a case on the floor will pick up alot more dust in the long run.


The phone book is a bad idea since the PSU is intaking from underneath.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> The phone book is a bad idea since the PSU is intaking from underneath.


eh it can be done. just depends on how you do it.


----------



## DrClaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Ghetto power panel.
> 
> 
> Can you find my main rig ?!
> 
> 
> Ponies


nice ponie or horse, you live there? must be nice


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

A bit too cold, but great view


----------



## mjcaouette89

My spare part steam machine for the projector in the living room:
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20140404_001_zps10b15aff.jpg.html
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20140404_002_zpsa56f69dd.jpg.html

approximate specs:
All held together with heavy duty velco, electrical tape, and a few wood screws!
Case: piece of wood whose original purpose was a shelf for the bathtub, but I don't have a bathtub just a shower so I had no other use for it.
CPU: core 2 duo OC'ed to a whooping 3.0Ghz
Ram: 4Gb of some unbranded ddr2
ODD: Old spray painted dvd burner
HDD1: 20Gb IDE HDD (it's hidden under the motherboard)
HDD2: 40Gb IDE deskstar aka deathstar HDD (not in pics added later)
Cooling:XSPC 750 lph pump and res old spare part
360mm rad got on sale from jab-tech for twenty bucks
five spare unmatched fans that I conjured up
GPU: some crappy graphics card, gtx 8600, maybe...
PSU: a POS power supply that works ( I couldn't bring myself to use my spare seasonic x650 gold)

It was kinda a pain getting steamOS installed on such an old machine but after a lot of wasted time I was able to get it installed and working. Took even more time to get amazon video, flash, and what not installed since steamOS doesn't come with any Linux repositories except for their own.

Worst part of it all, I built it in hopes to use in-home streaming from my main rig to the ghetto living room one hooked up to the projector, but I still haven't gotten an invite to the beta streaming mad.gif

And here is my main rig, the one I was gonna stream from:
http://s1213.photobucket.com/user/caddylover72/media/WP_20140418_002_zpsf26225fe.jpg.html

You'll notice I just recently ghetto rigged that vrm fan in the main rig, it was a spare fan from the heat sink that came with my fx 8320. The fan made a massive difference in VRM temps though so no matter how ghetto the installation job was it was worth it.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mjcaouette89*
> 
> My spare part steam machine for the projector in the living room:
> 
> 
> 
> approximate specs:
> All held together with heavy duty velco, electrical tape, and a few wood screws!
> Case: piece of wood whose original purpose was a shelf for the bathtub, but I don't have a bathtub just a shower so I had no other use for it.
> CPU: core 2 duo OC'ed to a whooping 3.0Ghz
> Ram: 4Gb of some unbranded ddr2
> ODD: Old spray painted dvd burner
> HDD1: 20Gb IDE HDD (it's hidden under the motherboard)
> HDD2: 40Gb IDE deskstar aka deathstar HDD (not in pics added later)
> Cooling:XSPC 750 lph pump and res old spare part
> 360mm rad got on sale from jab-tech for twenty bucks
> five spare unmatched fans that I conjured up
> GPU: some crappy graphics card, gtx 8600, maybe...
> PSU: a POS power supply that works ( I couldn't bring myself to use my spare seasonic x650 gold)
> 
> It was kinda a pain getting steamOS installed on such an old machine but after a lot of wasted time I was able to get it installed and working. Took even more time to get amazon video, flash, and what not installed since steamOS doesn't come with any Linux repositories except for their own.
> 
> Worst part of it all, I built it in hopes to use in-home streaming from my main rig to the ghetto living room one hooked up to the projector, but I still haven't gotten an invite to the beta streaming mad.gif
> 
> And here is my main rig, the one I was gonna stream from:
> 
> 
> You'll notice I just recently ghetto rigged that vrm fan in the main rig, it was a spare fan from the heat sink that came with my fx 8320. The fan made a massive difference in VRM temps though so no matter how ghetto the installation job was it was worth it.


yeah stemos was my third os but steamos's permissions were butchered since they butchered wheezy. like if i have root permissions i have to execute commands through terminal but they wont accept my newly made password. or if my password works in terminal then i cant use regular gtk's like synaptics because it doesn't accept the passwords. so in other words i couldn't get full access of my system to do what i had too.


----------



## Skye12977

More of just a mod, too cheap to (and don't have the money) buy a 20$ side panel for my Corsair 540 air, so I just grabbed a sign and made myself a side panel with fans.
Still have to attach the sign to the side panel and power the fans.


May add 2 more 120mm fans


----------



## unknown601

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Ghetto "work"station.


Toilet paper


----------



## Torvi

to swipe off screens xD

yes we all know what u use it for u pervert!


----------



## kaistledine

Heres mine !


----------



## Torvi

there is no ghettoness in this


----------



## kaistledine

My mistake ! just thought it was a normal "post your rig " topic .


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> to swipe off screens xD
> 
> yes we all know what u use it for u pervert!


I only use it for clearing off thermal paste I swear !


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I only use it for clearing off thermal paste I swear !


I use my old nosepaper's from my pocket, or everywhere i can found those from my room, to clean old thermalpaste's


----------



## RnRollie

the thing is... toiletpaper has been chemically treated so it "dissolves" fairly fast in water.... and this chemical will actually irritate your skin/nose/mucus membranes very fast... much, much faster as regular tissue, resulting in a inflamed red "peeling" nose.

So, yeah, the excuse "to swipe TIM(my) off" is the only valid one


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> I only use it for clearing off thermal paste I swear !


I wouldn't use that as thermal paste, it probably isn't very good.


----------



## Mystriss

Toilet paper leaves little fibers all over, like you wouldn't believe how many... Lets just say shine a black light on something wiped with it sometime *cough* Paper towels are less fiber leaving, but the patterns are kind of rough I think. I prefer the cloths for eye glasses as they don't leave fibers and have a no scratch "weave."


----------



## BradleyW

Welcome to the BradleyW Getto Mod Gallery!

1) 120mm fan held by foam in the front of a HAF-X.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







2) 120mm fan attached to the end of 7970 Crossfire-X configuration.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







3) Massive hole cut out of the rear HAF-X fan grill section, and two small 40mm fans attached to VRM heatsink.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







4) 7970 stock fans replaced for Noctua NF F12's.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







5) H110 held to the top of a Xigmatek Elysium, plus a bunch of NF F12's as case fans, held with zip ties.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







6) Nvidia GPU combined with 7970 CFX for physx.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







7) SSD's held to the back of the chassis with tape.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







8) H100i threaded through the back of the chassis and fans wired up to a little Fan controller, all balanced on a wooden stool.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








9) TY 140's stuck onto HAF-X side panel with acrylic cover removed.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







10) Part of the Sound Blaster Z's I/O shield cut due to obstruction issues.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







11) Swiftech Micro Res held onto the side of the chassis using a single screw, plus 360 Rad with fans installed at the front of the chassis using zip ties and screw combination.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







12) Sound dampening foam on side panel, plus pump on a Shoggy sandwich.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> I wouldn't use that as thermal paste, it probably isn't very good.


 Do you even read?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Toilet paper leaves little fibers all over, like you wouldn't believe how many... Lets just say shine a black light on something wiped with it sometime *cough* Paper towels are less fiber leaving, but the patterns are kind of rough I think. I prefer the cloths for eye glasses as they don't leave fibers and have a no scratch "weave."


It won't look nearly as bad as my Raystorm block.

I left it uncovered and hanging in my case, did some work, now it has deep scratches all over.


----------



## istudy92

BEHOLD MY COLLEGE GHETTONESS!!!




Using main rig to power the server up because I didnt know how to jumpstart it, so used main rig as a jump starter ha,

Another server on top using a cases fan, and another PSU around it.


----------



## cones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Toilet paper leaves little fibers all over, like you wouldn't believe how many... Lets just say shine a black light on something wiped with it sometime *cough* Paper towels are less fiber leaving, but the patterns are kind of rough I think. I prefer the cloths for eye glasses as they don't leave fibers and have a no scratch "weave."


I wouldn't put a black light near what the others were talking about with the use of toilet paper by the computer.

Istudy92 did you not know all you need to do to turn on a computer is touch the two pins for the power switch together for a second, screwdriver or paperclip works well for this. You also use that paper clip to turn on a PSU without using the motherboard.


----------



## ccRicers

Istudy92, your turntable poster reminds me of the ghetto home theater setup I used with some DJ equipment. I have a old Gemini PMX-12 that I once used to connect the line out of the TV and computer's sound card to channels 1 and 2 with Altec Lansing speakers on the master out. The sound quality was good too, actually- just as long as you don't move the crossfader it's free of noise and crackles.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> BEHOLD MY COLLEGE GHETTONESS!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using main rig to power the server up because I didnt know how to jumpstart it, so used main rig as a jump starter ha,
> 
> Another server on top using a cases fan, and another PSU around it.


Nice mining rig.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Welcome to the BradleyW Getto Mod Gallery!
> 
> 1) 120mm fan held by foam in the front of a HAF-X.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) 120mm fan attached to the end of 7970 Crossfire-X configuration.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Massive hole cut out of the rear HAF-X fan grill section, and two small 40mm fans attached to VRM heatsink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) 7970 stock fans replaced for Noctua NF F12's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5) H110 held to the top of a Xigmatek Elysium, plus a bunch of NF F12's as case fans, held with zip ties.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6) Nvidia GPU combined with 7970 CFX for physx.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 7) SSD's held to the back of the chassis with tape.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8) H100i threaded through the back of the chassis and fans wired up to a little Fan controller, all balanced on a wooden stool.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 9) TY 140's stuck onto HAF-X side panel with acrylic cover removed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10) Part of the Sound Blaster Z's I/O shield cut due to obstruction issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 11) Swiftech Micro Res held onto the side of the chassis using a single screw, plus 360 Rad with fans installed at the front of the chassis using zip ties and screw combination.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 12) Sound dampening foam on side panel, plus pump on a Shoggy sandwich.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


those little 40mm noctuas are so cute!


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Do you even read?


I think you got me a bit wrong. I didn't tell you not to use toilet paper as thermal paste, I told you not to use whatever you wipe with the toilet paper as thermal paste, if you know what I mean.


----------



## rgwoehr

Several years ago, I had a couple extra monitors I wanted to use but didn't have the desk space so I got a wall mount and mounted it to the side of the shelf and cut up some scrap wood I had laying around and turned it into a dual monitor mount.


----------



## Mystriss

^^ I did similar with my desk, though I finished it off with a hand formed acrylic cover so I can't call it ghetto









 

I'm trying to figure out how to mount my acrobat wall mount for my fourth monitor, I want to run a 31" in landscape, but the wall and desk are both too far away for it to be 'useable' in my current position. I was pondering doing a wood expansion off my right monitor, but I'm not sure the mount would be up to the challenge lol (Not the mounts in the pic, those silver ones were awesome and would easily handle the load, but I replace them with ones that have tilt and the new ones are horrible >.<)


----------



## DJEndet

Haven't posted in here for ages! Since others been also posting some of their ghetto rigged setups of their tables etc. here's a picture I got off of my "station" in it's pretty ghetto rigged glory:

This is after I finished recording for my youtube channel. The green screen on the left is held up by tape exclusively on 2 tall speakers with 2 wooden bars left over from a small renovation of a room. My table is is partially a table right now, under the case and the left side monitor there is a side piece of a bigger table which works as a stand for the main table part under the main screen and the light. The other side of the table is actually resting on my wifes PC table. The thing on top of my monitor is a blind to stop the bright light from hurting my eyes, of course held up by tape and a shoe spoon!









Also:

Yes, that is foam and an old HDD, the picture is from under my chair as the chair is a bit slanted on one side so I had to put something solid under it to even it out.


----------



## 0493mike

BradlyW that is some real ghetto mania. Looks like you really like to tinker around. Impressed.


----------



## Torvi

the amount of toilet paper rolls on pics in this thread disturbs me somehow


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> the amount of toilet paper rolls on pics in this thread disturbs me somehow


Why should it? TP is inexpensive and multipurpose.


----------



## DJEndet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> the amount of toilet paper rolls on pics in this thread disturbs me somehow


Gotta keep my glasses clean, sue me?







Inexpensive and effective + with a 2 year old you need to have tp rolls all around the house.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJEndet*
> 
> Gotta keep my glasses clean, sue me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inexpensive and effective + with a 2 year old you need to have tp rolls all around the house.


Old, used nosepaper's are the way--->


----------



## Werne

Well, I got an actual case for my cardboard PC. There is a problem though - the case was so beat up the entire frame was warped. There's also another problem, after I straightened it and made it look good, I tripped over the bloody thing when I brought it home so it fell down the stairs. This time I thought screw it and left it like that.

So without further ado, let me introduce you to a machine built using nothing other than everything and anything. Trust me, I'm an electromechanical ghetto engineer, I'm trained for this stuff.









Anyway, this is how the PC looks right now:

It has beautiful bump curves. There's also electrical tape that keeps the broken front panel from falling apart, and those scratches are just magnificent. God I love those leopard sheets.

And let's not forget the sexy 5.25" bay covers:

Top one is a piece of cardboard wrapped in brown electrical tape (don't know where my black one is at the moment), the second one is from an old HP tower, third one is not an optical drive (front optical drive plastic cover with DVD tray cover glued onto it, it's screwed into the front case panel), and the fourth one is from some cheap Chinese case I accidentally ran over with my car as I was going in reverse.

Since originally, the case is designed so the PCI slot cover holds the cards in place, a part which was demolished when the case fell down the stairs, I had to improvise...

Yes, that is a wood screw. And no, it doesn't bother the VGA port.

And here's a crappy pic of the insides:

Rear fan is mounted with silly putty since I couldn't find my bag of fan screws at the time.

Rear fan mesh is cut off with wire cutters.

The front fan is from a dead generic PSU mounted backwards with bolts and nuts.

PSU is an Enhance/CCT hybrid with a 20-pin main cable modified to have a 24-pin main cable, PSU fan is connected to molex with the wire routed back into the PSU.

5.25" bays are populated with a tin can (wifi) which has a USB header screwed into it and is held in place by a piece of cardboard I stuffed in there.

Floppy drive and HDD are only screwed in from one side and held with hot glue from the other side since the other case panel is stationary, can't be removed.

Front USB header is also held with hot glue, as is the entire front panel so it doesn't fall off the case.

Cable management... what cable management?

Motherboard is screwed in with wood screws since the mobo tray has damaged screw holes.

Case's rear has a hole above the graphics card made with wire cutters since I needed to screw in the game port somewhere (yellow port beneath the rear exhaust fan).

CPU cooler is a stock cooler from an FX 8320 with a fan tied to it using a shoe lace, still didn't buy zip-ties.

The CPU fan is an 80mm Arctic F8 with a broken frame, shoved into an emptied shroud of a dead fan from a dead Chinese PSU.

GPU has it's cooler tightened with a pen spring I cut into four pieces, original owner lost the springs when replacing TIM which I realized yesterday.

I didn't mount the rear I/O shield cause there is no rear I/O shield.

Northbridge heatsink on the board is tightened with two long screws screwed into two destroyed terminal blocks.

Rear support plate for the NB heatsink is a piece of plastic cut from a CD case.

Finally...

IT'S ALIVE!!!


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Well, I got an actual case for my cardboard PC. There is a problem though - the case was so beat up the entire frame was warped. There's also another problem, after I straightened it and made it look good, I tripped over the bloody thing when I brought it home so it fell down the stairs. This time I thought screw it and left it like that.
> 
> So without further ado, let me introduce you to a machine built using nothing other than everything and anything. Trust me, I'm an electromechanical ghetto engineer, I'm trained for this stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, this is how the PC looks right now:
> 
> It has beautiful bump curves. There's also electrical tape that keeps the broken front panel from falling apart, and those scratches are just magnificent. God I love those leopard sheets.
> 
> And let's not forget the sexy 5.25" bay covers:
> 
> Top one is a piece of cardboard wrapped in brown electrical tape (don't know where my black one is at the moment), the second one is from an old HP tower, third one is not an optical drive (front optical drive plastic cover with DVD tray cover glued onto it, it's screwed into the front case panel), and the fourth one is from some cheap Chinese case I accidentally ran over with my car as I was going in reverse.
> 
> Since originally, the case is designed so the PCI slot cover holds the cards in place, a part which was demolished when the case fell down the stairs, I had to improvise...
> 
> Yes, that is a wood screw. And no, it doesn't bother the VGA port.
> 
> And here's a crappy pic of the insides:
> 
> Rear fan is mounted with silly putty since I couldn't find my bag of fan screws at the time.
> 
> Rear fan mesh is cut off with wire cutters.
> 
> The front fan is from a dead generic PSU mounted backwards with bolts and nuts.
> 
> PSU is an Enhance/CCT hybrid with a 20-pin main cable modified to have a 24-pin main cable, PSU fan is connected to molex with the wire routed back into the PSU.
> 
> 5.25" bays are populated with a tin can (wifi) which has a USB header screwed into it and is held in place by a piece of cardboard I stuffed in there.
> 
> Floppy drive and HDD are only screwed in from one side and held with hot glue from the other side since the other case panel is stationary, can't be removed.
> 
> Front USB header is also held with hot glue, as is the entire front panel so it doesn't fall off the case.
> 
> Cable management... what cable management?
> 
> Motherboard is screwed in with wood screws since the mobo tray has damaged screw holes.
> 
> Case's rear has a hole above the graphics card made with wire cutters since I needed to screw in the game port somewhere (yellow port beneath the rear exhaust fan).
> 
> CPU cooler is a stock cooler from an FX 8320 with a fan tied to it using a shoe lace, still didn't buy zip-ties.
> 
> The CPU fan is an 80mm Arctic F8 with a broken frame, shoved into an emptied shroud of a dead fan from a dead Chinese PSU.
> 
> GPU has it's cooler tightened with a pen spring I cut into four pieces, original owner lost the springs when replacing TIM which I realized yesterday.
> 
> I didn't mount the rear I/O shield cause there is no rear I/O shield.
> 
> Northbridge heatsink on the board is tightened with two long screws screwed into two destroyed terminal blocks.
> 
> Rear support plate for the NB heatsink is a piece of plastic cut from a CD case.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally...
> 
> IT'S ALIVE!!!


That is nothing short of amazing. There is just so much ghetto goodness


----------



## 0493mike

Its Frankenputer.


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Jut sharing this with you!
My mini ghetto work table..... first time modding...LOL


----------



## one4hope

brilliant


----------



## kamikazemonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *one4hope*
> 
> brilliant


thanks bro!
just little money and very little space and time.... but after a few monts i already hace tools to make anything...LOL


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> That is nothing short of amazing. There is just so much ghetto goodness


Yeah, I outdid myself on that one.

And I got the first upgrade too, I did want to replace the 40GB IDE hard drive with the cheapest possible 2.5" SATA and I actually got paid to do it. Five dead zip-ties later...








...aaand it got mounted sideways onto a 3.5" bay side, had to bend the drive tray carriers in order to mount it that way. All those zip-ties were used once already, I just used them once more. Do note that I'm not cheap, I just don't have the money, I can't afford myself the luxury of using brand new zip-ties (hence why I mount a CPU fan with a shoe lace).

And here's a pic from the inside of the 3.5" bay:








Fits like a glove.









As for how did I get paid to take that hard drive - my ex girlfriend wanted me to fix her laptop cause it was freezing, the issue was that the CPU was overheating since it's TIM was harder than wood (which I fixed by applying callus cream she forgot at our place when she left me) and told her the hard drive was dying. So now I have a perfectly functioning 80GB Seagate Momentus 5400.2 SATA I hard drive and I sold her a half-broken 250GB SATA II WD Scorpio I was going to throw away for more money than what a new one costs. I also ripped out one of her 512MB stick of DDR2-667 cause it was "throwing up errors" which is now going on sale for $10.

I profited and got revenge, all at once!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> Its Frankenputer.


Nay, I named it "Roadkill", fits it nicely.


----------



## Pawelr98

Hd5450 "SuperClock Edition" (actually it's mobility radeon hd5470). Hd5770 had the same mounting as hd5450. So took the cooler from the dead card and modified it to fit on the card.Temps peak at about 60°C instead of 75°C. The card itself is a nice overclocker(probaly due to "park" core).


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Hd5450 "SuperClock Edition" (actually it's mobility radeon hd5470). Hd5770 had the same mounting as hd5450. So took the cooler from the dead card and modified it to fit on the card.Temps peak at about 60°C instead of 75°C. The card itself is a nice overclocker(probaly due to "park" core).


Ghetto $25 card= Crisis 3 Max settings lol


----------



## ccRicers

For making a custom case, I built myself a home made bending unit- er, brake. These pics also show part of the case that I made some bends to.





I wanted a design simple enough that you didn't need complex cuts or welding, so I just used store bought aluminum angles, wood and screws.

It's decent enough for most 18 gauge aluminum, but I am going to replace some of the parts with stronger materials, like iron rods or a thick aluminum bar.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> For making a custom case, I built myself a home made bending unit- er, brake. These pics also show part of the case that I made some bends to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted a design simple enough that you didn't need complex cuts or welding, so I just used store bought aluminum angles, wood and screws.
> 
> It's decent enough for most 18 gauge aluminum, but I am going to replace some of the parts with stronger materials, like iron rods or a thick aluminum bar.


That... is awesome.

Care to post instructions on making one?


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> That... is awesome.
> 
> Care to post instructions on making one?


I mostly followed this tutorial to figure out how to make it. My design is similar except that I use L-angle aluminum for handles and the pieces are bolted on instead of welded. The pieces were cut with a large Dremel cutting wheel.

I recommend using angle iron instead of angle aluminum that I used. I reinforced it with some steel pieces, but a full angle iron is much less prone to bending in the middle.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I used toilet paper to reduce vibration.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

My rig has gone through some crazy stuff recently. I wanted to fit a Corsair H80i but the only place that would fit was the front intake, which required ripping out the HDD rack. I had done that along with fitting my HDD and SSD in the 5.25" bays with adapters, but then it turned out that the hoses on the H80i were about half an inch too short for that mounting spot to work, so I had to do some proper ghetto engineering to get everything wired up again.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I had no choice but to put the cooler in the front drive bays. Since I was out of cable ties, I used copper wire I got from disassemblying an old PSU that failed.

Also, my secondary HDD (old laptop unit) was able to fit into that empty compartment between the rear side panel and drive bay wall.
And that thing you see up top is a calculator with the original button cell batteries replaced with AAA ones in a ghetto fashion.
I even managed to pop the front cover back on (complete with its 1 missing bay cover) despite all the copper wire.


But that meant my drives would no longer fit in the front bays... And since my HDD rack was decomissioned I ended up screwing each drive to the bottom of the case with one screw using the old rivet holes of the HDD rack and to make it more rigid I connected the 2 drives with one half of a 5.25" to 3.5" adapter.


For better cooling I took the 120mm fan from that same old failed PSU and attached it using more copper wire to blow air over the VRM heatsink.



And found another one to go behind the socket itself. I never even bothered to fit that one with anything cause the cutout was precisely sized for a 120mm fan and with the EPS 8pin running across the fan it won't go anywhere.


So here it is now. Its guts held together with wires and magic, but going strong. PS! Ignore the girly wallpaper everywhere, I just moved here and haven't bothered with redoing it.


----------



## mironccr345

^^^^ ghetto level is over 9,000!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> That... is awesome.
> 
> Care to post instructions on making one?


I second this although it looks pretty strait forward, a 2x6, two or more large C-Clamps, and those long hinges. The main issue for me is finding those nice Long Hinges, hard to find.....


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I second this although it looks pretty strait forward, a 2x6, two or more large C-Clamps, and those long hinges. The main issue for me is finding those nice Long Hinges, hard to find.....


I already posted the link to the tutorial, but you're mostly spot on with the stuff I used







The wood piece is a 2x8, and I use two 3" C-clamps that hold to the table. The hinges I used aren't that big. They are 2" long hinges with two screw holes on each end, bought at Home Depot. Use larger ones if you want to make a brake over 2 feet long.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I already posted the link to the tutorial, but you're mostly spot on with the stuff I used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood piece is a 2x8, and I use two 3" C-clamps that hold to the table. The hinges I used aren't that big. They are 2" long hinges with two screw holes on each end, bought at Home Depot. Use larger ones if you want to make a brake over 2 feet long.


Ahh I see now, you added a piece of metal to the two hinges.... Looked like one long hinge!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> I already posted the link to the tutorial, but you're mostly spot on with the stuff I used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wood piece is a 2x8, and I use two 3" C-clamps that hold to the table. The hinges I used aren't that big. They are 2" long hinges with two screw holes on each end, bought at Home Depot. Use larger ones if you want to make a brake over 2 feet long.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh I see now, you added a piece of metal to the two hinges.... Looked like one long hinge!
Click to expand...

"Extra Long Hinges" aren't hard to find. Do a search for "Continuous Hinge" or "Piano Hinge"...


----------



## diesel678

Yeah, my Sony HI-FI receiver just broke, made this one in about 20 minutes, for the time being LOL

Cant actually tell the difference in sound between the sony amp and my 'cardboard box' amplifier, the only difference is that the Sony always had a slight hissing in the background on the speakers whenever it was on, but this one doesnt seem to do that

Even runs of off MOLEX!


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> Yeah, my Sony HI-FI receiver just broke, made this one in about 20 minutes, for the time being LOL
> 
> Cant actually tell the difference in sound between the sony amp and my 'cardboard box' amplifier, the only difference is that the Sony always had a slight hissing in the background on the speakers whenever it was on, but this one doesnt seem to do that
> 
> Even runs of off MOLEX!


pls show it on some audiophile forums saying it's a viable mod so it removes hissing in background, i just cant wait for idiots to be modding it just to remove the hiss


----------



## cinnamonrollz

I have some pretty ghetto stuff. I should post pics


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> Yeah, my Sony HI-FI receiver just broke, made this one in about 20 minutes, for the time being LOL
> 
> Cant actually tell the difference in sound between the sony amp and my 'cardboard box' amplifier, the only difference is that the Sony always had a slight hissing in the background on the speakers whenever it was on, but this one doesnt seem to do that
> 
> Even runs of off MOLEX!


Dude that is sweet! Please post some pics of the board, would love to see all the custom work!


----------



## diesel678

There you go, improved it a little, may even keep it! it has a 15w per channel output and it based on a TDA7297, cost me, what.. around £2.50 to build, compared to around £120 for my old Hi-Fi amp LOL, well its broken now anyway..


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> There you go, improved it a little, may even keep it! it has a 15w per channel output and it based on a TDA7297,
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The premade ones on Ebay aint all that bad either, the ones in the Aluminum case.... There pretty cheap, you can even get one at auction for 0.99c sometimes.. .


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> There you go, improved it a little, may even keep it! it has a 15w per channel output and it based on a TDA7297,


I want to make one of those now, really sweet looking! How is audio quality? I use a H/K AVR 300 for all my audio needs So don't even know what I would use it for lol


----------



## diesel678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> The premade ones on Ebay aint all that bad either, the ones in the Aluminum case.... There pretty cheap, you can even get one at auction for 0.99c sometimes.. .


Yeah, if you mean ones like the Lepai 2020 and stuff like that, had one of those a while ago but it developed a weird buzzing issue for sounds around 400hz, so i had to scrap it. they are generally good for the money though


----------



## chaosblade02

I don't have any pictures, because my old rig no longer exists. But I cut up some chop sticks and used them as spacers between 2 crossfire GPUs to give them support and keep them from sagging. One spacer was between the top of the PSU and the bottom of the bottom card, and the other spacer was directly above giving support to the top card. It worked, and I'd definitely do something like that again. The temperature variation between the top and bottom card went from about 10c under load to about 5c. It created better spacing in between the cards, because the top card was sagging slightly worse than the bottom prior to doing that.


----------



## diesel678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I want to make one of those now, really sweet looking! How is audio quality? I use a H/K AVR 300 for all my audio needs So don't even know what I would use it for lol


well, i cant tell any difference in audio quality from my old amplifier, that is with the DTS post processing and whatever disabled, except for the absence of the slight background hiss whenever its on. so i don't think i will bother replacing the Hi-Fi amplifier, ill just keep the one i made!


----------



## cones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> There you go, improved it a little, may even keep it! it has a 15w per channel output and it based on a TDA7297, cost me, what.. around £2.50 to build, compared to around £120 for my old Hi-Fi amp LOL, well its broken now anyway..
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I did something similar except i used old computer speakers from the 90's that had blown and it's 120v input.


----------



## Neckbeard13

After 2 complete tear downs and 5 hours later..YES it must be the case!!!

Theodore Kaczynski style right there, str8 up.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neckbeard13*
> 
> 
> 
> After 2 complete tear downs and 5 hours later..YES it must be the case!!!
> 
> Theodore Kaczynski style right there, str8 up.


lol


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> There you go, improved it a little, may even keep it! it has a 15w per channel output and it based on a TDA7297, cost me, what.. around £2.50 to build, compared to around £120 for my old Hi-Fi amp LOL, well its broken now anyway..


Velleman? Maplins?


----------



## Unfortunately

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> My rig has gone through some crazy stuff recently. I wanted to fit a Corsair H80i but the only place that would fit was the front intake, which required ripping out the HDD rack. I had done that along with fitting my HDD and SSD in the 5.25" bays with adapters, but then it turned out that the hoses on the H80i were about half an inch too short for that mounting spot to work, so I had to do some proper ghetto engineering to get everything wired up again.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I had no choice but to put the cooler in the front drive bays. Since I was out of cable ties, I used copper wire I got from disassemblying an old PSU that failed.
> 
> Also, my secondary HDD (old laptop unit) was able to fit into that empty compartment between the rear side panel and drive bay wall.
> And that thing you see up top is a calculator with the original button cell batteries replaced with AAA ones in a ghetto fashion.
> I even managed to pop the front cover back on (complete with its 1 missing bay cover) despite all the copper wire.
> 
> 
> But that meant my drives would no longer fit in the front bays... And since my HDD rack was decomissioned I ended up screwing each drive to the bottom of the case with one screw using the old rivet holes of the HDD rack and to make it more rigid I connected the 2 drives with one half of a 5.25" to 3.5" adapter.
> 
> 
> For better cooling I took the 120mm fan from that same old failed PSU and attached it using more copper wire to blow air over the VRM heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> And found another one to go behind the socket itself. I never even bothered to fit that one with anything cause the cutout was precisely sized for a 120mm fan and with the EPS 8pin running across the fan it won't go anywhere.
> 
> 
> So here it is now. Its guts held together with wires and magic, but going strong. PS! Ignore the girly wallpaper everywhere, I just moved here and haven't bothered with redoing it.


Love this. Especially the VRM cooling. Some rigs have their bare existence propped up with wire and magic, other rigs have true ghetto performance upgrades.


----------



## Neckbeard13

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by M1kuTheAwesome View Post
> 
> My rig has gone through some crazy stuff recently. I wanted to fit a Corsair H80i but the only place that would fit was the front intake, which required ripping out the HDD rack. I had done that along with fitting my HDD and SSD in the 5.25" bays with adapters, but then it turned out that the hoses on the H80i were about half an inch too short for that mounting spot to work, so I had to do some proper ghetto engineering to get everything wired up again. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
> I had no choice but to put the cooler in the front drive bays. Since I was out of cable ties, I used copper wire I got from disa


Lol that is the business right there! I remember having a few drives jimmied into an old HP Pavillon that lay on its side because cpu heat sink bracket snapped with another drive balanced on the corner sitting in a disc golf disc. I think I may even still have a picture of it. Yes!


----------



## Krakish

So....
1. My HAF 922 ghetto dust filter
(some cloth i find attached with screws and double sided tape)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







2. Side panel plexiglass mod


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




it was not tall enough and i couldnt find any shop which sells plexiglass in mi city












3. Outtake fan perforation was cut out with wire cutter and replaced with PSU fan cover... ^ ^


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
















4. My NAS with core2duo stock fan on Socket 462 (sempron 2500+)







it fits like it was made for it
and the second RAM from left was revived from dead in oven







you can see the "brown touch" ^ ^


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





little swollen but works like new

dunno if this is ghetto but... my boot drive









Mercedes Case!!! yeahh




5: My old NAS that im not using anymore


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Taped sunnon cooler







that pentium III got really hot in loads.


Custom made HDD mounts from some old building kit i had as a child



Hi End Specs! it was updated with pentium III 700mhz, 512mb of ram and i belive it had 2x 120gb drives in it









end ehm... yeah.. carpet feet












...just the little things







sorry if i made grammar mistakes and i would appreciate correction just to see how my language skill is


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unfortunately*
> 
> Love this. Especially the VRM cooling. Some rigs have their bare existence propped up with wire and magic, other rigs have true ghetto performance upgrades.


Every extra degree off the CPU is worth it. And with those big 8 core AMD chips VRMs are working overtime as well. There might be a fancier way of doing it, but I don't have a dremel and to be honest, I kinda like the honest ghetto look.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neckbeard13*
> 
> Lol that is the business right there! I remember having a few drives jimmied into an old HP Pavillon that lay on its side because cpu heat sink bracket snapped with another drive balanced on the corner sitting in a disc golf disc. I think I may even still have a picture of it. Yes!


A philosophical question: does that qualify as an internal or external HDD?


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> A philosophical question: does that qualify as an internal or external HDD?


Yes.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Does this qualify as an internal _xor_ external HDD?


----------



## BradleyW

I believe it's an internally external drive.


----------



## Pawelr98

A teaser of my great mod. 3.5mm jack to DIN adapter.
Old 3.5mm jack,two wires from a random source (these comes from a broken psu),an M4 screw and a spring from a pen(hammered to fit into a mass of a DIN input).

Will post a video of this mod running (currently uploading it).


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Does this qualify as an internal _xor_ external HDD?


Sorry, my bad. That's exactly why I have no future as a programmer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> I believe it's an internally external drive.


Let me think... It's connected internally to the inside but it's on the exterior so it must be external and it isn't sshhshhhshssa... Yes, you are right.


----------



## Pawelr98

Here it is:



I think I will use it as a "Iskra" speaker.


----------



## Horsemama1956

Not sure how ghetto it is, but took off the vrm heatsink from a dead 1156 board amd glued them(with small dabs of mx-2 on each vrm) onto this fm2 board.


----------



## Anonymoos3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R00ST3R*
> 
> Funny, I just posted this over in the H50 fan club thread, where it prolly don't belong. Had I known there was dedicated thread here, I would have made this picture a Post your "ghetto rigging" shenanigins exclusive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I feel you there, I tape in my HD's all the time.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horsemama1956*
> 
> Not sure how ghetto it is, but took off the vrm heatsink from a dead 1156 board amd glued them(with small dabs of mx-2 on each vrm) onto this fm2 board.


That might be a little pro for the thread, but still nice job.







:thumb:


----------



## Horsemama1956

Lol, I've completely downgraded my system the last few weeks, so now using the apu and board I had sitting in the closest(sold everything else) and waiting on next generation mid range stuff.

I had a spare Betfenix Comrade and will post the ghetto mod on it as I have to cut a rectangle on side so the top of my NH-U14S pokes through it with the side closed. Atleast now with the VRMs covered and the cooler blowing air past them, I can hit 4.4 easily.


----------



## animal0307

Getting rid of my proper watercooling gear because I want to "get out off the hobby" and downsized my investment and realized I didn't have an 1155 compatible cooler. All I had was an H50 and a dead H60. A trip to the hardware store and I had a res and tubing for $10. It would have been much less ghetto if I had used more glue on the PVC fittings but I did and had some pretty bad leaks so I coated the joints in hot glue and electrical tape. Leak proof now


----------



## 0493mike

Oh my gosh thats beautiful. Love those hot glue guns, better than duct tape. I'm suprised that little pump can handle all that.


----------



## BennyP88

My old 9500gt, pencil modded recklessly, the stock fan died at 100% duty cycle haha, so I took an old cpu fan, pushed hard down on the heatsink and screwed it down, used some tape to seal it. And voila, temps from 87*C down to 54 at load (550/400 clocks up to 710/475 as well







) ... It was a little bit louder after this mod though haha.

In these photos its just being used as a dummy/mock up with a dead mobo for a new rig. It still works fine btw. Go figure











And these photos are my current rig. GTX670 and a dual core athlon, My unashamed zombie/scrap parts build. The NB was struggling with that full length card though, and all i could do was squeeze half a fan onto the heatsink haha.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> Oh my gosh thats beautiful. Love those hot glue guns, better than duct tape. I'm suprised that little pump can handle all that.


Well I imagine its no different than the guys who swap for a 240mm rad on their H50's back in the day. A bit more tubing ya but personally I've never seen tubing as restriction unless its kinked ove. The res being so low may not help but only time will tell. I'll run it till it dies Muhahaha.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Getting rid of my proper watercooling gear because I want to "get out off the hobby" and downsized my investment and realized I didn't have an 1155 compatible cooler. All I had was an H50 and a dead H60. A trip to the hardware store and I had a res and tubing for $10. It would have been much less ghetto if I had used more glue on the PVC fittings but I did and had some pretty bad leaks so I coated the joints in hot glue and electrical tape. Leak proof now


You shall return to the Force..... you will return to the Greatness of legit water cooling soon


----------



## cinnamonrollz

I will never watercool unless i am bored and want a project. too many coolers like xigmatek dark knight 2 pwn almost all closed loops. I'd rather buy a peltier, a cm 212 evo, and pair it with a delided amd processor.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I thought AMD used fluxless solder? They do for Vishera at least.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Getting rid of my proper watercooling gear because I want to "get out off the hobby" and downsized my investment and realized I didn't have an 1155 compatible cooler. All I had was an H50 and a dead H60. A trip to the hardware store and I had a res and tubing for $10. It would have been much less ghetto if I had used more glue on the PVC fittings but I did and had some pretty bad leaks so I coated the joints in hot glue and electrical tape. Leak proof now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You shall return to the Force..... you will return to the Greatness of legit water cooling soon
Click to expand...






eventually


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Getting rid of my proper watercooling gear because I want to "get out off the hobby" and downsized my investment and realized I didn't have an 1155 compatible cooler. All I had was an H50 and a dead H60. A trip to the hardware store and I had a res and tubing for $10. It would have been much less ghetto if I had used more glue on the PVC fittings but I did and had some pretty bad leaks so I coated the joints in hot glue and electrical tape. Leak proof now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You shall return to the Force..... you will return to the Greatness of legit water cooling soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> eventually
Click to expand...


----------



## nvidiaftw12




----------



## actioncheese

This ones not on a computer, but it's got a good story..

I work in the sign industry and one shop I worked at a few years ago brought a wide format HP Latex printer when they were just released, like this one here..



Commercial printers like these have a waste ink tank for catching waste ink (duh). Usually they are a pretty much just a jug that you empty and put back in, but HP decided to make theirs a sealed disposable unit that costs $40 to replace. I noticed it didn't feel very heavy when the printer told me it was full, so I pulled it out and cut the lid off.. It was probably only 25% full at best. I thought I would just stick it back in the printer and carry on, since now I could see inside to check the waste ink level.

Since the lid which I removed kept the tank from flexing, it began to bend enough to look like it might fall out of its two mounting points. I had a look around and found a length of dowel and wedged it in the tank to keep the sides in place. It worked, but didn't look too good and we were going to have a visit from one of HP's head development guys to see the printer running in a commercial situation. I thought I had better make it look like a legit replacement part, so I peeled a label from an empty HP ink container and wrapped the dowel in the sticker.

I give you my ghetto printer mod..


----------



## davcc22

behod the ghettoness of the old mans rig and check that power supply out specks
semiporn 3000+
like a gig of ram
geforce fx 5500
sesonic psu!!!!!


and the stock cooler iff my f4130 with the tim that coolermaster uses on there high end stuff


----------



## BruceB

It's not as gehtto as some of the suff in this thread but I MacGyver'd together some lighting for my 20€ LAN PC project out of stuff I had laying around.









Here's some pics:

In the dark.

In the light







Check out the link above or in my sig for more info


----------



## cptnighthawk666

i know this is kinda off topic but i had to brag somewhere ...i just bought this system for 600$-nzxt 810 switch case,samsung 840 120 gb ssd,1tb hd,700 w corsair power supply,i5 3570k,gtx 770 windforce,gigabyte ga-z77x-ud3 mobo,8 gigs of patriot viper 1600 ddr3 ram,coolermaster aio liquid cooler 240mm rad,plus a das mechanical keyboard.i have bought tons of computer stuff of kijiji in the past but i would have to say this is by far the best deal i have ever come across.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Put some duct tape on the case, take some pictures, and suddenly it's on-topic!









So I told the OMPT guys this, but I looted four really old computers from my school. All of them had floppy drives, and the biggest HDD to be found was 80GB. One side of one 2.5" platter can hold up to 250GB. I'm going to assume that the drive has four platters in it. 3.5" platters have roughly twice the surface area of 2.5" platters, so the drive has 16 times the area of a single side of a single 2.5" platter yet only one third the storage space. *HDDs in just nine years have gotten 50 times as dense!* I find this exciting.

ANYWAY, two of the power supplies did not look trustworthy, so I salvaged the fan from one and trashed everything but the case. What would be a good thing to stick in an ATX PSU's shell? I could actually run a low-power rig if I were to use a PicoPSU and a laptop power brick.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> i know this is kinda off topic but i had to brag somewhere ...i just bought this system for 600$-nzxt 810 switch case,samsung 840 120 gb ssd,1tb hd,700 w corsair power supply,i5 3570k,gtx 770 windforce,gigabyte ga-z77x-ud3 mobo,8 gigs of patriot viper 1600 ddr3 ram,coolermaster aio liquid cooler 240mm rad,plus a das mechanical keyboard.i have bought tons of computer stuff of kijiji in the past but i would have to say this is by far the best deal i have ever come across.


Edit: actually I retract my statement, it was a little harsh. This just isn't the right place for that post.


----------



## Xylene

UD590 lack of forward tilt fixed.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> UD590 lack of forward tilt fixed.


----------



## BennyP88

@CynicalUnicorn; How bout a pushpull watercooling rad setup in the psu case, and mount one of the other psu's in the 5 1/4 drive bays to power the whole thing? Ghetto watercooling; no one would suspect it from that case...


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Put some duct tape on the case, take some pictures, and suddenly it's on-topic!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I told the OMPT guys this, but I looted four really old computers from my school. All of them had floppy drives, and the biggest HDD to be found was 80GB. One side of one 2.5" platter can hold up to 250GB. I'm going to assume that the drive has four platters in it. 3.5" platters have roughly twice the surface area of 2.5" platters, so the drive has 16 times the area of a single side of a single 2.5" platter yet only one third the storage space. *HDDs in just nine years have gotten 50 times as dense!* I find this exciting.
> 
> ANYWAY, two of the power supplies did not look trustworthy, so I salvaged the fan from one and trashed everything but the case. What would be a good thing to stick in an ATX PSU's shell? I could actually run a low-power rig if I were to use a PicoPSU and a laptop power brick.


build headphone amp in the shell


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BennyP88*
> 
> @CynicalUnicorn; How bout a pushpull watercooling rad setup in the psu case, and mount one of the other psu's in the 5 1/4 drive bays to power the whole thing? Ghetto watercooling; no one would suspect it from that case...


Wikipedia says a 5.25" half-height HDD, which is the same form-factor as things like ODDs, is 203x146x41.4mm. The PSUs are 5.9x5.5x3.4 inches, or 150x140x86.4mm. I think they should fit in two 5.25" bays, but I'm not entirely sure and will need to mess around trying to get them to fit. The old cases only have three 5.25" bays, but I'm sure I could work something out (re: duct tape).


----------



## hartofwave

has anyone done a small room/cupboard sound proofing mod with empty egg boxes? (the cardboard kind) its something i fancy doing next holiday and was just interested if anyone else had had a go.


----------



## Werne

Let me show you guys how to make ghetto wifi for a HTPC!









First you take a $1 USB wifi dongle you got from ebay:

Pardon my dirty garage work table. This piece of crap wifi dongle can't even detect my router from 3m away, and that's when put it into a tin can that directs all of it's signal towards the said router.

After you have the dongle ready for a ghetto treatment, (convincing it to participate might require some threatening and harsh words) then you take a wifi antenna as well as a wifi antenna connector off a dead router you fish out of a dumpster belonging to a local IPS:


It's nice that those guys just throw this stuff away, more material for my evil ghetto experiments. And then you solder the antenna connector onto the embedded wifi antenna connectors:

I got some mad soldering skills, the central connector is 1.1mm in diameter and my trusty ol' Betsy has a 1.8mm soldering tip, but I pulled it off.







Normal people would secure the wifi antenna connector with something normal, but I opted for abnormal instead:

Electrical tape does wonders. And I also got it a USB extension cable so I can mount this thing somewhere instead of plugging in directly into my USB port.

Anyway, this is how I mounted it while searching for a box to put this thing in. I wanted to listen to RockRadio1 while I search:

Rotate monitor 90 degrees counter clockwise and secure it to the wall with lots of duct tape to see this image correctly. This mount worked quite well, even thought of leaving it like that but it was too close to the PSU switch so I didn't feel comfortable.

I found the old box I used to make an LED music box prototype (finished product is situated in two 25pcs CD boxes (one for each channel) that stand on each side of my monitor), cut one side of it for the USB extension cable, drilled a hole in the other for the antenna connector, and secured the wifi thingy with hot glue:

That hot glue looks as if someone was masturbating in here.









And the final part - closing the box and screwing the antenna in:

Care to guess where the LEDs were mounted on that box? Those holes are good for cooling though.

After all that work, I can now detect eight different wifi networks with my own being over 47% in signal strength, and I don't lose packages anymore. This thing is now as fast as my desktop's wifi card!









Also, a here's a taste of things to come. I don't want to kill the joy for you in case you want to be surprised, therefore spoiler.









Spoiler: Warning: Ghetto spoiler!



My soon to be mITX ghetto build, featuring the almighty Athlon 5350:

Just imagine the sweet, sweet ghetto goodness I can do with this thing and a mITX motherboard. Disassembling an ATX PSU to fit into a small case, taping hard drives with duct tape, zip-ties everywhere, I can't wait! And don't expect stock clocks, first thing I'll do to it is ramp up the BCLK as far as it can go, just gotta pick up an Asus AM1I-A on monday and I'll be all set.









I'm thinking of starting a build log for it. There's a disturbing lack of ghetto machines in the build log section and this thing may actually fix that situation. What do you guys think about that?

Also, here's some nerd pr0n for your satisfaction - naked CPU with IHS fully exposed.










Soon...


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Excellent job. How well does it work with the new antenna compared to a more traditional WiFi card?

Also, likin' dat sexy Athlon.







You better overclock that and get back to us.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Excellent job. How well does it work with the new antenna compared to a more traditional WiFi card?


It actually works as well as my TP-Link TL-WN751ND wifi card with Atheros AR9227 chip and the same type of antenna on it. And this is the cheapest dongle I could find back when I bought it, cutting a few cents above $1 and using a Ralink RT3070 chip with an internal antenna printed as leads on the circuit board.

Compared to before the antenna, it was getting maybe 23-26% signal from my router on a lucky day when all stars align to my favor, otherwise it would either outright fail to detect it, or actually detect it at some 13% signal strength and fail to connect. Now it's a minimum of 42 and maximum of 58% signal strength, always connects and has a 100% package transmission/receiving when pinging the router. All in all, a massive improvement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Also, likin' dat sexy Athlon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You better overclock that and get back to us.


Precisely what I intend to do. I'm hoping for this baby to reach at least 2.5Gs on it's stock cooler.









Speaking of which, I played around with the cooler a bit and the mounting hole distance is nearly the same as it is on socket 939, a bit bigger (~2mm spacing difference) and rotated 45 degrees but I can almost mount it on my 3200+. That means the old 939 downward-blower coolers that screw into the board could probably be mounted on AM1 with a bit of fiddling. I'd likely need to make a ghetto backplate for the CPU out of a CD case or something, but it looks to me like mounting a 939 aftermarket cooler using it's factory screw-in mounting system may indeed be feasible.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Speaking of which, I played around with the cooler a bit and the mounting hole distance is nearly the same as it is on socket 939, a bit bigger (~2mm spacing difference) and rotated 45 degrees but I can almost mount it on my 3200+. That means the old 939 downward-blower coolers that screw into the board could probably be mounted on AM1 with a bit of fiddling. I'd likely need to make a ghetto backplate for the CPU out of a CD case or something, but it looks to me like mounting a 939 aftermarket cooler using it's factory screw-in mounting system may indeed be feasible.


939 heatsinks are the same size as FM2, AM1 heatsinks are quite a bit smaller than a FM2 heatsink

If this is what AM1 looks like 
then no. 939 mounting systems are 2 screws to hold down a top holder which the 939 heatsink will lock into place.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> 939 heatsinks are the same size as FM2, AM1 heatsinks are quite a bit smaller than a FM2 heatsink
> 
> If this is what AM1 looks like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then no. 939 mounting systems are 2 screws to hold down a top holder which the 939 heatsink will lock into place.


Maybe I didn't express my self correctly, I meant that the holes are apart nearly the same on 939 and AM1, I know the cooler is bigger on 939 and that most mount with the retention system like the stock cooler since s754. I think AM1 has ~80mm distance between push-pins and 939 is ~82mm between socket retention bracket screws, didn't take time to measure though so it's an estimate.

I used to have a downward-blower Zalman on my 3200+ that was screwed into a backplate with two long screws, and coolers like that could maybe be mounted on AM1 with a bit of fiddling like boring the screw holes on the cooler to move the screw just a millimeter to fit. It would be turned 45 degrees and screwed into a ghetto-rigged backplate, but it might just be possible.

If not, there are always zip-ties, those work on all sockets and every cooler is compatible.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Maybe I didn't express my self correctly, I meant that the holes are apart nearly the same on 939 and AM1, I know the cooler is bigger on 939 and that most mount with the retention system like the stock cooler since s754. I think AM1 has ~80mm distance between push-pins and 939 is ~82mm between socket retention bracket screws, didn't take time to measure though so it's an estimate.
> 
> I used to have a downward-blower Zalman on my 3200+ that was screwed into a backplate with two long screws, and coolers like that could maybe be mounted on AM1 with a bit of fiddling like boring the screw holes on the cooler to move the screw just a millimeter to fit. It would be turned 45 degrees and screwed into a ghetto-rigged backplate, but it might just be possible.
> 
> If not, there are always zip-ties, those work on all sockets and every cooler is compatible.











462 socket heatsinks were already using the clip.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> 462 socket heatsinks were already using the clip.


Yeah, I remember, my first CPU was a 1GHz Athlon Thunderbird with a high-end cooler that looked a lot like Kabini stock cooler. But 754 was the first to use a detachable retention bracket and dimensions compatible with the brackets used nowadays, 462 had it embedded on the socket and it was something that sends shivers down my spine even today. Once my screwdriver slipped while removing a cooler off a Duron, many a brick was shat that day, luckily nothing happened. But I did love that to-the-die cooling, too bad CPUs nowadays don't have bare dies.

And speaking of Duron, AMD should bring it back with the AM1 CPUs, they already re-introduced the Sempron lineup and Duron would fit in just perfectly next to it. Semiporn and Durex were great budget CPUs back in the day, as well as a great source of bad sex jokes.


----------



## Jack Mac

My computer isn't that ghetto...but.

I couldn't find screws to mount a fan on the top of my FT02 so I zip tied one on and since I can't seem to get my power switch to work, I have to open my computer up and turn it on with a screwdriver.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> 462 socket heatsinks were already using the clip.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I remember, my first CPU was a 1GHz Athlon Thunderbird with a high-end cooler that looked a lot like Kabini stock cooler. But 754 was the first to use a detachable retention bracket and dimensions compatible with the brackets used nowadays, 462 had it embedded on the socket and it was something that sends shivers down my spine even today. Once my screwdriver slipped while removing a cooler off a Duron, many a brick was shat that day, luckily nothing happened. But I did love that to-the-die cooling, too bad CPUs nowadays don't have bare dies.
> 
> And speaking of Duron, AMD should bring it back with the AM1 CPUs, they already re-introduced the Sempron lineup and Duron would fit in just perfectly next to it. Semiporn and Durex were great budget CPUs back in the day, as well as a great source of bad sex jokes.
Click to expand...

LOL. Great days that were, AMD beating Intel out to the point Intel buckled under the pressure.

They don't use to-the-die because heat density these days is over the top


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> LOL. Great days that were, AMD beating Intel out to the point Intel buckled under the pressure.


Oh yeah, and the best part was that the fastest CPU at the time it comes out is practically a low-end CPU a year later, my brand new overclocked Thunderbird got beaten by a stock Duron within a year. That was a great time to be an enthusiast, boundaries were pushed fast and performance skyrocketed in a flash.

I wish that would happen again one of these days instead of yearly 10% improvements, maybe the next AMD architecture pushes things along for a new era of pure awesome. A guy can dream, right?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> They don't use to-the-die because heat density these days is over the top


I know, too many transistors per mm^2 to cool effectively with a direct die contact, IHS are built to spread the temperature more evenly before it hits the cooler base. Though I've seen people sanding down the FX-series to nearly bare die and strapping water blocks on them, as well as delidded Ivy Bridge and Haswell CPUs with bare die cooling. It brings temps down by some 3-4C on Intel and 2-3C on AMD but yeah, to-the-die cooling doesn't have the same effect as it did on the old CPUs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> I couldn't find screws to mount a fan on the top of my FT02 so I zip tied one on and since I can't seem to get my power switch to work, I have to open my computer up and turn it on with a screwdriver.


You know that's actually pretty good, zip-ties are multi-purpose. I also find that a pinch of silly putty in the fan screw hole with a bit of 1.5mm copper wire plugged into it and bent to hold the fan in place is a great way to mount fans.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> LOL. Great days that were, AMD beating Intel out to the point Intel buckled under the pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, and the best part was that the fastest CPU at the time it comes out is practically a low-end CPU a year later, my brand new overclocked Thunderbird got beaten by a stock Duron within a year. That was a great time to be an enthusiast, boundaries were pushed fast and performance skyrocketed in a flash.
> 
> I wish that would happen again one of these days instead of yearly 10% improvements, maybe the next AMD architecture pushes things along for a new era of pure awesome. A guy can dream, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> They don't use to-the-die because heat density these days is over the top
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I know, too many transistors per mm^2 to cool effectively with a direct die contact, IHS are built to spread the temperature more evenly before it hits the cooler base. Though I've seen people sanding down the FX-series to nearly bare die and strapping water blocks on them, as well as delidded Ivy Bridge and Haswell CPUs with bare die cooling. It brings temps down by some 3-4C on Intel and 2-3C on AMD but yeah, to-the-die cooling doesn't have the same effect as it did on the old CPUs.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jack Mac*
> 
> I couldn't find screws to mount a fan on the top of my FT02 so I zip tied one on and since I can't seem to get my power switch to work, I have to open my computer up and turn it on with a screwdriver.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You know that's actually pretty good, zip-ties are multi-purpose. I also find that a pinch of silly putty in the fan screw hole with a bit of 1.5mm copper wire plugged into it and bent to hold the fan in place is a great way to mount fans.
Click to expand...

I can dream as well


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Wikipedia says a 5.25" half-height HDD, which is the same form-factor as things like ODDs, is 203x146x41.4mm. The PSUs are 5.9x5.5x3.4 inches, or 150x140x86.4mm. I think they should fit in two 5.25" bays, but I'm not entirely sure and will need to mess around trying to get them to fit. The old cases only have three 5.25" bays, but I'm sure I could work something out (re: duct tape).


REP+ @CynicalUnicorn And they do! Most of the time all you have to do is bend the mounting lips down or trim them to get them out the way. The only time I have had any issues is when its the type of case that the side lips are actually pressed(Those oval ones) and those cannot bend easy so you have to take a grinder to them







Or if the case is ******ed thick steel, in that case the same method applies.......


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> The only time I have had any issues is when its the type of case that the side lips are actually pressed(Those oval ones) and those cannot bend easy so you have to take a grinder to them


I'm thinking metal hammer followed by rubber mallet will work.







That would leave a free bay for an ODD. I want to mash up all the best looking components into one retro system and install Linux on it. You know, for productivity and stuff. One of the P4s is 3GHz with Hyperthreading, so I think I'm using that.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I'm thinking metal hammer followed by rubber mallet will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would leave a free bay for an ODD. I want to mash up all the best looking components into one retro system and install Linux on it. You know, for productivity and stuff. One of the P4s is 3GHz with Hyperthreading, so I think I'm using that.


P4 HT, lol I actually loved my P4 HT 3ghz Stock back in the day! I had one in a dell Dimension square beat around, was as fast as or faster than the Core2Duo that came out after....


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I'm thinking metal hammer followed by rubber mallet will work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would leave a free bay for an ODD. I want to mash up all the best looking components into one retro system and install Linux on it. You know, for productivity and stuff. One of the P4s is 3GHz with Hyperthreading, so I think I'm using that.
> 
> 
> 
> P4 HT, lol I actually loved my P4 HT 3ghz Stock back in the day! I had one in a dell Dimension square beat around, was as fast as or faster than the Core2Duo that came out after....
Click to expand...

Was MUCH slower that's what you meant.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Was MUCH slower that's what you meant.


Have you ever owned one? It gave me no issues...... And in comparison I mainly worked on laptops at the time(Computer repair shop) and you know they run the Core2Duo(M).......


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Was MUCH slower that's what you meant.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you ever owned one? It gave me no issues...... And in comparison I mainly worked on laptops at the time(Computer repair shop) and you know they run the Core2Duo(M).......
Click to expand...

Of course I have. P4 651 and P4 3.4


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Of course I have. P4 651 and P4 3.4


lol I was speaking in the sence that I never really ever noticed any performance differances on day to day use in windows..... Remember back then the IDE Controller and Drives were the bottleneck and usually the determining factor in builds. So if you were to compare a Desktop P4 HT 3.0 with a 2.5 7200RPM IDE to a Laptop Core2Duo 1.8ghz with a 1.8 5400rpm PATA the P4 has the better performance impression.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> lol I was speaking in the sence that I never really ever noticed any performance differances on day to day use in windows..... Remember back then the IDE Controller and Drives were the bottleneck and usually the determining factor in builds. So if you were to compare a Desktop P4 HT 3.0 with a 2.5 7200RPM IDE to a Laptop Core2Duo 1.8ghz with a 1.8 5400rpm PATA the P4 has the better performance impression.


Depends what kind of software do you run. Laptops often have a lot of pre-installed OEM crappy software that slow down startup. Install something like Win XP "75" edition and it will boot light fast even from usb drive.


----------



## denman

I don't think it's that ghetto (I'm actually very proud of it!), but I fit my main rig (400R) into an old HP Pavilion so I could do some modifying to my 400R. Here's a link to my build log and here is the exact post:
Quote:


> Well, today started as a simple job that turned into a 6 hours project that included 3 trips to the hardware store. I remembered I had our old family computer we bought several years back collecting dust in my shed. I decided to pull it out, transplant my computer into this HP case, so I could start stripping down the 400R for this project. I can't leave it on my desk and do an 'open case' because my kids would undoubtedly mess with it or the cat would jump on it. So I pulled out the HP and got to, what I thought, would be easy work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: HP Pavilion p6630f in all it's glory!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Gutted all the old hardware and started de-riveting because of all that proprietary snap in metal after realizing this case was a lot smaller than I remembered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yea... a lot smaller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Not sure where the PSU will go, so I decided to cut a hole in the front of the push/pull H60 combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Put some joints on the top to screw in the PSU, cut a hole to thread the power cables and cut a hole for a 140mm fan on top as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Took a step back to admire my creation. Wife walked out as I was drinking a beer telling myself I'm a damn genius. She wanted to know what the hell I had created.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Push/Pull was able to fit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Ok, I didn't realize how cramped it would be with all those damn cables, but I did the best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't sure where to put the HD, so it's just laying on the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Back on my desk, turns on, everything works, t;was a good day today. Tomorrow I start stripping down and cleaning the 400R


----------



## MattGordon

Hang in there little buddy!!.... lack of space and converters led to putting the SSD on only one side.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denman*
> 
> I don't think it's that ghetto (I'm actually very proud of it!), but I fit my main rig (400R) into an old HP Pavilion so I could do some modifying to my 400R. Here's a link to my build log and here is the exact post:


Thats a really nice build! Pretty professional and ghetto in all the right ways! What kind of tool did you use to make those round cuts for the fan?


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattGordon*
> 
> Hang in there little buddy!!.... lack of space and converters led to putting the SSD on only one side.


Screws?! Not ghetto enough. I just used velcro to attach mine to the side of the 5.25" bay on the back side.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Yeah, I remember, my first CPU was a 1GHz Athlon Thunderbird with a high-end cooler that looked a lot like Kabini stock cooler.


>High-end
>Looks like stock Kabini

DOES NOT COMPUTE. ERROR. ERROR.

No, but seriously, how is a block of aluminium high-end at all?

Quote:


> Semiporn and Durex were...a great source of bad sex jokes.


That's the important part, right? I bet overclocking one of those would increase epeen by a factor of ten!

Speaking of heatsinks, how feasible would it be to cut a mount out of plastic or insulated sheet metal for an FM/AM/LGA115# to AM1 adapter? I don't want anything good, just low-profile. And I mean really low profile. Like, it shouldn't be taller than the RAM's PCB. Alternatively, would drilling through the stock aluminium block and inserting heat pipes and an auxiliary radiator help?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Going ghetto level pro today! Bench/testing my new Mobo and CPU for my "Red Berry Ciroc" Build

*Alot of Photos!*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



First I have descoverd that the Monsoon Compression fitting tool makes a very good quick anti kink tool!












Second I only have a waterblock for the NB and the x58 NB gets hot as hell so I had to do something so im using a quick ghetto non radiator loop with left over hoses and a AIO bay pump







But it works brought it from 79c to 23c in a heartbeat lol











Third Im using a Alienware AIO cooler for the CPU lol, it works well but I had to mod the connector and jam it into molex for power lol












Forth The aio cooler has a cougar fan resting on it unbolted and the whole thing is not mounted being held by the ram lol











Fifth I have a HD7870 DCII cooler bolted on my HD7970 lol with plastic screws at that.....







Also had to patch the fan power wires to a Molex...


----------



## denman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Thats a really nice build! Pretty professional and ghetto in all the right ways! What kind of tool did you use to make those round cuts for the fan?


all dremel 200i


----------



## checksmix

IMG_20140524_214414.jpg 2376k .jpg file


IMG_20140524_220805.jpg 1591k .jpg file


IMG_20140524_220843.jpg 2188k .jpg file


Rubber feet? Nty


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> >High-end
> >Looks like stock Kabini
> 
> DOES NOT COMPUTE. ERROR. ERROR.
> 
> No, but seriously, how is a block of aluminium high-end at all?


It was a block of copper actually, with high fin density and large cooling surface. But the general shape is pretty much identical to Kabini's stock cooler, albeit bigger and with tightly packed fins. All coolers were like that back in the day, and there were dozens of companies competing with high-end products. Speaking of which, is Alpha still around? Their PAL8045 was a beast back in the day, heavy enough to crack the CPU die due to weight on a vertically mounted board though.

First heatpiped coolers resembling today's appeared during the Athlon 64/Pentium 4 era if I recall correctly, P4 demanded more cooling power than the ordinary cooler could give and a solid block cooler able to cool 120W+ on stock and much more when the CPU is overclocked would've been too heavy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That's the important part, right? I bet overclocking one of those would increase epeen by a factor of ten!


Just owning one increases e-peen by a factor of ten, overclocking it increases e-peen so much not even math can express the magnitude. I overclocked multiple Semiporn and Durex back in the day, my e-peen is beyond what mortal mind can comprehend.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Speaking of heatsinks, how feasible would it be to cut a mount out of plastic or insulated sheet metal for an FM/AM/LGA115# to AM1 adapter? I don't want anything good, just low-profile. And I mean really low profile. Like, it shouldn't be taller than the RAM's PCB. Alternatively, would drilling through the stock aluminium block and inserting heat pipes and an auxiliary radiator help?


It shouldn't be hard, but... why not just rip the fan off the stock cooler and run it passive? This thing gets to 25C under Prime95 with that teeny tiny 40mm fan (or is it 30mm, need to measure it) that has barely any blades, and the heatsink is 22mm tall, with the CPU and socket it should be right around the height of a DDR3 DIMM (30mm) and it shouldn't overheat if the mobo lies horizontally instead of vertically. Max CPU temp should be 90C I think, this is basically A6-5200 with extra 50MHz and those can run around 80-90C.

By the way if you want really really low profile, downclock the CPU/iGPU as low as it can go, undervolt as far as possible, then rip the whole cooler off and run on bare IHS, doesn't get lower than that. I'm thinking of doing that just for the hell of it, last CPU I ran like that was my old E4500 but it was overheating under heavier load (good for web browsing and light work though, 68C when watching a YouTube video), this thing might actually be able to run naked 24/7.









Just imagine the e-peen, running a naked CPU in a fanless machine with a plexi side panel...


----------



## cinnamonrollz

ok guys, im the real ghetto mast3r! yallz aint got nothin on my flux0red skillz.

i was bored and had a dell optiplex gx270 that i stole fro the welfare office. I used my swaggness to remove the plastic from the clamshell case, and then replaced the cooler with a copper one.

I had to do a few bends in the metal and had to put some felt feet on for balance, but it turned out like this:


awww yea,

1 lightscribe dvd burner 1 52x cd burner 1 fdd 1 zip disk

dat powerswitch do

look at that ghetto beastliness

moar beastliness

such cooling mod


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> It shouldn't be hard, but... why not just rip the fan off the stock cooler and run it passive? This thing gets to 25C under Prime95 with that teeny tiny 40mm fan (or is it 30mm, need to measure it) that has barely any blades, and the heatsink is 22mm tall, with the CPU and socket it should be right around the height of a DDR3 DIMM (30mm) and it shouldn't overheat if the mobo lies horizontally instead of vertically. Max CPU temp should be 90C I think, this is basically A6-5200 with extra 50MHz and those can run around 80-90C.
> 
> By the way if you want really really low profile, downclock the CPU/iGPU as low as it can go, undervolt as far as possible, then rip the whole cooler off and run on bare IHS, doesn't get lower than that. I'm thinking of doing that just for the hell of it, last CPU I ran like that was my old E4500 but it was overheating under heavier load (good for web browsing and light work though, 68C when watching a YouTube video), this thing might actually be able to run naked 24/7.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just imagine the e-peen, running a naked CPU in a fanless machine with a plexi side panel...


Let me tell you about MacBooks. They're running i5s rated for about 20W TDP. I don't think there is a single fan in the system, and if there is, it doesn't work particularly well. Even when doing something as simple as watching videos on YouTube or; scarily enough; rendering HTML, Javascript, and CSS (i.e. normal web browsing); they get really hot. Since the case acts as a heatsink (I assume anyway), I wouldn't say mild burns are out of the question. I'm surprised the pope hasn't come out against MacBooks by saying they're a form of birth control!









So the relevance there is that I wanted to use the pope emoticon and that I'm planning on a briefcase build. Have you ever used a 3" thick laptop? Me neither, but it sounds uncomfortable. My plan is to support full mATX, plus a couple PCIe expansion slots, plus a FlexATX PSU (or battery pack and a PicoPSU instead). Right now I'm planning on a 5350 and an ASUS AM1 board, but this should be able to support something like full 9.6"x9.6" A88X or Z97 and a 7750 or a 750Ti. Observe:



The FlexATX standard is 1.6" high. The motherboard tray I plan on using and an I/O shield are 2.3" tall. I also want a mechanical keyboard, and I supposed getting something plate-mounted and mounting the mount to the case would work to save precious vertical space. The case itself is going to be custom made out of aluminium. I don't want to burn myself after watching a movie. That would suck. That would suck a lot. I suppose it wouldn't be too bad if I had a heat resistant pad on top, since that's where the heatsink would make contact, but then it would just warm the sides and the battery.


----------



## Werne

@CynicalUnicorn I've seen those things built before, those are fun projects but back in the day they were as thick as a reinforced concrete wall since there were practically no low-power CPUs, except VIA but I don't count them since, well, it's VIA. They are still kings of embedded systems though, and we wouldn't have ITX if it weren't for VIA, so they do deserve respect on the SFF/embedded front.









Seeing as how Kabini is one of the choices, I guess the thing doesn't need to have a ton of performance, and in something that small you need as little watts as possible. So you're basically looking at something like Bay Trail or the AM1 lineup, otherwise the CPU will start overheating and you'll get that burning sensation from MacBook, even Celeron/Pentium have over 50W of TDP for some reason. And only some MacBooks have a fan, others use the case as a heatsink, and they both have a tendency to burn through your lap, as well as your wallet.










When it comes to low-profile CPU heatsinks for low wattages, I can think of one - a low-profile GPU heatsink. GT 610 has a decent enough sink with the fan in the same level that should be roughly 20mm high (I think) which should keep the CPU cool (think 40-50C). You can drill two holes with 85mm spacing between them and slap the thing onto the CPU, might need some sanding and polishing first since it's designed to go on a GPU. It can't stand high TDPs though, the cooler is designed for a 30W TDP and after that, the CPU might soon hit it's temp limit. A ghetto backplate in which you would screw it in would be simple to make so that ain't a problem.

Intel coolers won't fit, I measured. 775 to 1150 have different hole spacing, wider than Kabini, I got a Freezer 13 with an Intel mounting setup which has the holes cut out for 775/1156/1155/1150 (100mm/106mm/114mm diagonal spacing, not sure which is which). AMD coolers are the same, spacing between holes on AM1 is 85mm (measured from push-pin hole center) and 754/939/AM2/AM2+ have 90mm. Mounting an Intel/AMD cooler might be feasible with some kind of an adapter, but only if the cooler is small enough to fit without obstructing the socket holes on AM1 (wider can be mounted the ghetto way with a zip-tie







).

There's also a possibility of cutting the stock AM1 cooler down to fit the size requirement, but I'm not sure how well would that work. The fan is 15mm high, 17mm with some plastic stand-offs to keep distance from the heatsink you can freely just cut off with a scalpel, and the heatsink is 22mm, so you'd be left with 5mm cooler height after sawing the extra off to get 20mm total height. CPU itself is 8mm high so leaving some leeway for the socket, yeah, 20mm total height should be perfect. The screws go 6mm into the cooler so by sawing it down to 5mm would require shortening the screws or getting new ones. The mounting arms are 5mm high so that would be sawing it to the limit. Fan is a 50mm one so if you can find a 10mm thick 50mm fan, that would allow the heatsink to be 10mm high.

While it is quite possible that the CPU won't overheat while cooler is shortened that much (the fan is 2000RPM which gives some comfort) there are issues there as well, manly the fact that the cooler is aluminum and that it could deform when sawed down to 5mm, the springs on push pins are pretty strong and those might push it down with enough force to deform it, unlikely but still. I'd rather cut it down to 8.5/9mm and put a PS2 Slim blower on it with a ghetto mount (from the one with the built-in PSU) which is 11mm high, would need to bore the heatsink in the center so the blower's rotor would fit but the fins would still be there, or cutting it down to 10mm height and using a 10mm thick fan which would kinda be the best course of action in my opinion.

All in all, something small that can cool a CPU without exceeding RAM height would be possible to make, but I doubt there's a factory cooler with that kind of height and it needs to be done on low-power processors or it would just overheat. And to be honest, I'd wait for Beema before building this thing unless you're in a hurry. From what I've seen, Beema will likely bring something close to Athlon 5350 performance with a 15W TDP which would be much better than 25W for a compact machine. That or Cherry Trail, that one should bring improvements on the low power front too but it's soldered so personally I don't like it very much, I'll take a socket any day.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

@Werne: First off, thanks. This is super helpful.

I don't think you're giving VIA enough credit. 











One of the best things about all dem dirty hippies saying we should go green is that 1000W PSUs are no longer required for a decent gaming build and that, since processors are powerful enough for most people, energy efficiency is the main focus. This is good for us and for enterprise systems too, since more cores (GPU and/or CPU) or more jiggahertz can be fit into last generation's thermal envelope.

Yeah, I'm using it as a laptop replacement which is why I want the battery. I mean, my list of games that I still play on my laptop is extremely short, and is basically Minecraft, the Creeper World series, and some of the Indie games in my Steam library. It's a web browser and Office runner. I want the option for a LAN rig to be there, and a 9" GPU and a 400W PSU with no battery ought to be doable with minimal changes to the case itself. I had not considered Bay Trail and, while it might be better, I really want to play with AM1. If it means a drop in performance, so be it. I think MacBook Pros have a fan but, ironically given the name, Airs do not. It's either silent or it doesn't kick in before things start to heat up.

Huh. I never thought about a GPU cooler before. I've thought about putting a closed-loop liquid cooler on a GPU, but never a GPU heatsink on a CPU. I suppose it's because CPUs actually have aftermarket coolers available.







I do have a passive GPU cooler I've been meaning to use. Maybe I could get a 7750 or an R7 250, salvage the stock air cooler, replace it with the passive one, and run hybrid crossfire in a Kaveri system. AMD APUs make low-end GPUs a bit pointless in my mind honestly. Why get two separate chips when one does the same? A GT640 would be a bit expensive for a PhysX card, but I could always run BOINC on it. Or use that for PhysX and dedicate the 650Ti BOOST for BOINC... Sorry, I'm typing my train of thought right now. But yes, a single-slot GPU cooler should work wonders. (EDIT: This GT 630 looks nice given the number of CUDA cores, beefiness of the cooler, and dollars of price)








I'm open to any mounting options that are secure. I'm not going to be staring at the components every single day, am I? Can't spell "effective" without several of the letters in "zip ties," after all.









Eh, that seems a little short to be effective. That's not going to leave much surface area since suddenly the base on which the fins are mounted becomes a much larger percentage of the height.

I do have an expansion slot blower that I could use, which could mitigate the need for a GPU cooler if I'm clever about it. Getting a PS2, even broken, seems like too much effort for something that's going to be ghetto anyway.

Oh, I plan on this being difficult. Many an F-bomb will be dropped to get this functioning as I want it to. Fortunately, I have a donor case whose guts can be ripped out whenever I get around to it for the motherboard tray and expansion slots. Right now, I just want to plan this out and possibly make a case for it. In addition, I have no idea whether or not whatever college I go to will require me to get a certain computer. I swear, if they force me to get an iPad and a keyboard for it or a totally locked-down MacBook Air, somebody is getting shanked.







(If the FBI is reading this, then that was definitely a joke and not serious at all.) But I need to learn how to work with sheet metal and not burn or cut myself, I need to make a lithium battery with charging circuitry that won't turn into a bomb if left plugged in too long, and I need to know what AMD is planning next. And I agree, sockets are much better than soldered. If it turns out Puma is supported on AM1, then I could get the dual-core Sempron to use temporarily and sell it for like $10. That'd be a pretty significant net loss in terms of percentage of the price, but $20 loss on hardware isn't a lot at all. Then again, for a theoretical loss of jsut $10, a backup CPU would be a better investment.


----------



## Werne

@CynicalUnicorn In a spoiler since it's a pretty big wall of text.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I don't think you're giving VIA enough credit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of the best things about all dem dirty hippies saying we should go green is that 1000W PSUs are no longer required for a decent gaming build and that, since processors are powerful enough for most people, energy efficiency is the main focus. This is good for us and for enterprise systems too, since more cores (GPU and/or CPU) or more jiggahertz can be fit into last generation's thermal envelope.


Damn, VIA Nano runs Crysis as well as my old Core 2 Duo!









Personally, I never did understand the guys yapping about wanting a power efficient CPU in a machine running two graphics cards that draw well over 500W, especially when everything in that machine will be overclocked. When i comes to machines built solely for performance, you don't ask what components fit in a certain power envelope, you ask how big of a PSU you need for the most powerful components you can afford and be on your merry way. 30-40W more in a machine that will draw over 500W anyway is nothing, it's peanuts.

I can understand it in industry, where those machines run 0-24 and where power efficiency and performance/watt does matter more than sheer performance. But in a gaming machine, that's ridiculous unless it's an SFF system where you can't cram a big cooler, for a full-blown desktop built for performance you get the best you can afford, no matter the power consumption.

The advances on the low-power front bring advances to the high-end front as well, which is very good since more performance can be crammed into the same thermal/power envelope. But for some reason, ever since 754 hit the market the trend of lower-power desktop units has become more pronounced. I'd bet my left leg that if AMD were to release a 125W unit that outperforms Intel CPUs for less money, people would still buy Intel cause it uses less power. Enthusiasts would buy the fastest, but others would likely buy whatever uses less power, which just doesn't make any sense to me what so ever.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Yeah, I'm using it as a laptop replacement which is why I want the battery. I mean, my list of games that I still play on my laptop is extremely short, and is basically Minecraft, the Creeper World series, and some of the Indie games in my Steam library. It's a web browser and Office runner. I want the option for a LAN rig to be there, and a 9" GPU and a 400W PSU with no battery ought to be doable with minimal changes to the case itself. I had not considered Bay Trail and, while it might be better, I really want to play with AM1. If it means a drop in performance, so be it. I think MacBook Pros have a fan but, ironically given the name, Airs do not. It's either silent or it doesn't kick in before things start to heat up.


Ouch, Minecraft is VERY CPU intensive, you'd be looking at around 60FPS on an overclocked i7, Java just doesn't play nicely with CPUs. Hopefully, it might get compiled with HSA in mind, I think I've seen an AMD roadmap showing Kabini as HSA-capable but after Kaveri got released with claims like "first with HSA" I'm not sure anymore. Indie games, a lot of them will run just fine, others might need a bit of overclocking on the CPU side. Oh, and if you intend to overclock, you need to set the drives to IDE mode to get past 105MHz on BCLK using AM1.









When it comes to putting a dGPU on a stock 5350, a 7750 would be a good choice, I tried dropping my 8320 to one core per CU and 2GHz to run some games and my 7770 is bottlenecked in some titles like Skyrim where you get around 30ish FPS and Starcraft II where you get a total mess in multiplayer. But games like Fallout 3 and New Vegas surprised me since they are quite playable, FO3 ran at 60FPS most of the time and that's with over 150 mods and ultra settings (Rivet City dropped to some 35FPS), same for NV but with 90ish mods, some places drop but it's nothing unplayable. For an overclocked 5350 in the 2.5-2.6GHz range, I'd say a 7770 would be a good match. For office work and web browsing, you won't have any problems.

As for Bay Trail, it's a decent low-power setup but it doesn't bring much over Kabini. A bit stronger single-threaded performance but gets obliterated in multi-threading and you'll pay the same for a dual-core system as you would for a 5350 and an AM1 board. Problem with Bay Trail is that aside from the fact that overclocking is impossible, the CPU is a BGA meaning it's soldered onto the board, you'd have to swap the entire system and pay through the nose for a new CPU+board combo instead of just swapping the CPU, you upgrade it like you do a Mac - throw it out the window and buy a new one. Plus, I don't even look at cheaper Intel units since Sandy, stock clocks make my butt itch and scratching my rear while using the PC is not something I consider acceptable.

Also, MacBook Air does have a fan, but it's practically useless since it's tiny and slow in order to be quiet. Feels like strapping an AM1 cooler set to quiet on an FX 9590 and expecting it to run cool.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Huh. I never thought about a GPU cooler before. I've thought about putting a closed-loop liquid cooler on a GPU, but never a GPU heatsink on a CPU. I suppose it's because CPUs actually have aftermarket coolers available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a passive GPU cooler I've been meaning to use. Maybe I could get a 7750 or an R7 250, salvage the stock air cooler, replace it with the passive one, and run hybrid crossfire in a Kaveri system. AMD APUs make low-end GPUs a bit pointless in my mind honestly. Why get two separate chips when one does the same? A GT640 would be a bit expensive for a PhysX card, but I could always run BOINC on it. Or use that for PhysX and dedicate the 650Ti BOOST for BOINC... Sorry, I'm typing my train of thought right now. But yes, a single-slot GPU cooler should work wonders. (EDIT: This GT 630 looks nice given the number of CUDA cores, beefiness of the cooler, and dollars of price)


Yeah, people often completely disregard GPU coolers as viable for CPUs but I mounted several in places where an aftermarket cooler is not an option. I remember an old machine built into a case so tiny I could barely even work in it, and a new cooler was needed. I zip-tied a modified cooler off an old 256MB DDR3 high-end Radeon on it and it ran like a dream. Speaking of which, remember old high-end AGP cards? Coolers on those looked like coolers on HTPC cards nowadays.

For Athlon 5350, a 7750 would be a nice match, even a stock 5350 has potential for an entry level gaming PC, overclocked it actually becomes decent. I'll still have to wait on overclocking mine, AM1 parts around here practically fly off the shelves so I can't find a mobo. And if you intend to be using Kaveri in this thing, I'd wait for the A8-7600 to hit the shelves, current FM2+ parts are crap compared to that thing. I'm not sure which GPUs can Kaveri crossfire with, I think a 7750 is possible to be CF'd with a Kaveri iGPU. Hmm, I'll have to look into that.

By the way, don't think about using 5350's iGPU for any kind of smooth gaming, it's basically a 5450 built on GCN and a 5450 is, well, crap. I played games on a 5450 and I don't recommend it.

And that GT 630 seems pretty good for the price, though I'd personally step up to a 640 with GDDR5 and cut the iGPU out of the equation. A 640 is about as fast as a 7750, slightly faster than a Kaveri iGPU unless you're willing to pay more for high-speed dual-channel RAM than the rest of the build (also overclock that RAM as far as it'll go) and costs roughly the same as a 7750, not to mention it has all the nVidia goodies like PhysX and GSync. Just make sure it ain't a re-branded Fermi, you want Kepler, lower power draw and heat emission.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm open to any mounting options that are secure. I'm not going to be staring at the components every single day, am I? Can't spell "effective" without several of the letters in "zip ties," after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eh, that seems a little short to be effective. That's not going to leave much surface area since suddenly the base on which the fins are mounted becomes a much larger percentage of the height.
> 
> I do have an expansion slot blower that I could use, which could mitigate the need for a GPU cooler if I'm clever about it. Getting a PS2, even broken, seems like too much effort for something that's going to be ghetto anyway.


Well, to be honest, a PC ain't effective until there's zip ties and duct tape. And yeah, cutting down the cooler does seem like not so great of an idea, you'd practically be losing over 50% of the surface area and while these things run cool, I'm honestly not sure what would happen in a SFF system with most of the cooler missing.

And that blower, I'd kill for one of those things. If you intend to use that thing for intake, I'd put it in the build to draw air from beneath and make a shroud for it to exhaust over the CPU heatsink and out of the case. That way fresh air would get into the system and be blown directly over the CPU heatsink, completely removing the need for an active cooler on Kabini while allowing for the stock heatsink to be kept, something like Kaveri would still need an active cooler though. Stock fan on an AM1 heatsink doesn't have that much airflow, I can barely even feel the breeze 15cm away from it while it runs on full blast, so that blower may actually work. Don't take my word for it, I'm just thinking out loud, it's something that would require experimenting to find out.

Oh, and I have about 20 dead PS2 Slims in my magic box, seven of them have integrated 45W 7.5V PSUs I ripped out and experiment with to get 12V output for a Pico PSU using a 1:2 ratio transformer from an Enhance PSU, an ATX PSU PWM module from that very same Enhance and a voltage limiter, and I have 13 PS2s with bricks, that's why I mentioned a PS2 blower. I also have eight that work which I fixed with parts from those dead ones. I live close to a Sony repair center and when they throw these away, I take them home, fix the ones I can and sell them, sell off the pieces I don't need as well. I got more PlayStation parts than a Sony factory.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Oh, I plan on this being difficult. Many an F-bomb will be dropped to get this functioning as I want it to. Fortunately, I have a donor case whose guts can be ripped out whenever I get around to it for the motherboard tray and expansion slots. Right now, I just want to plan this out and possibly make a case for it. In addition, I have no idea whether or not whatever college I go to will require me to get a certain computer. I swear, if they force me to get an iPad and a keyboard for it or a totally locked-down MacBook Air, somebody is getting shanked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (If the FBI is reading this, then that was definitely a joke and not serious at all.) But I need to learn how to work with sheet metal and not burn or cut myself, I need to make a lithium battery with charging circuitry that won't turn into a bomb if left plugged in too long, and I need to know what AMD is planning next. And I agree, sockets are much better than soldered. If it turns out Puma is supported on AM1, then I could get the dual-core Sempron to use temporarily and sell it for like $10. That'd be a pretty significant net loss in terms of percentage of the price, but $20 loss on hardware isn't a lot at all. Then again, for a theoretical loss of jsut $10, a backup CPU would be a better investment.


Hey, if there are no F-bombs while working on something, you're doing it wrong. And you guys have computer requirements in college? Apple stuff as a requirement? You guys are either all rich or your college seems to think so, if a professor were to set a Mac as a requirement here, he'd get bludgeoned to death by his students with actively used 10 year old laptops and machines running P4s.

Sheet metal is simple to work with - use metal cutters to cut it (do not use a saw, you'll just wreck it), use rivets to connect parts and if it needs welding, do it with a CO2 welder (Mig Mag) or you'll just burn a hole right through it. Low amps with a 1-1.5mm welding electrode would work with an arc welder but you'd need to pick at it carefully instead of welding in a straight line. For cutting a hole in the middle of it rather than edge, I generally use a table mounted grinder I rigged on a piece of old pipe or a ghetto drill press and then get rid of the jagged edges with a file. Sadly, anti-aliasing won't fix jagged edges when you cut metal.









A lithium ion charging circuit shouldn't be too hard to make, you'd need to make a voltage control circuit which should be pretty simple to do with a transistor and a resistor, as well as throw in a another resistor for current control, maybe even a capacitor for cleaner DC output. Circuit design depends on exact battery capacity (mAh) and total cell pack voltage so some tweaking would be necessary if you find a schematic, shouldn't be hard to make since it's pretty simple, it's elementary school style circuitry. For example, a 12V 1Ah battery pack should be charged with a 14.2V 100mA (1.37W) charger, current needs to be 1/10th of the battery capacity and voltage needs to be ~10-15% higher than battery pack voltage in order to charge it optimally. That applies to car batteries, should be the same or similar for lithium ion, do check the ratios for Li-ion.

And current remains the same with a current control resistor so once battery's internal resistance increases as voltages start to equalize, it won't be overcharged, that's why controlling the current is very important in battery chargers.









But you have to take something into consideration - there's a reason why laptop batteries are all 14V and higher. Once the pack starts dropping to about 11V, s*** happens, whole thing starts turning into an overall mess. I'd advise a higher voltage pack in the range of 16-19V, dropped down to a constant 12V output with another circuit, that way you won't have to suffer from headaches due to hard drives shutting down or errors once CPU/GPU start running out of volts.

I generally use these batteries for making stuff, they are cheap and have lots of capacity (5000mAh, aka 5Ah), that kind of capacity would be minimum I'd use. Assuming the entire system draws 30W under full load on 12V, that's 2.5A of current draw, meaning that a full 5x3.7V (18.5V nominal, 20V real) 5Ah battery pack with a 12V voltage limiter would keep it running full speed ahead an estimated ~1h40m before voltage begins dropping under 12V (once batteries hit 2.4V per cell, which is damn near empty), a few minutes more or less due to variation.

You know, once I put those batteries into an old HP laptop which could idle for 3h on a brand new stock battery, the end result was a 9h movie marathon on battery power and it was still running for another hour after I left it alone. It was charging for nearly five hours though, and for comparison, stock battery would be full within an hour.

And to be honest, I have no idea what AMD plans to do with Puma, AMD is all over the place with Mullins but their lips are tight when it comes to Beema. Only reason I'm going with a 5350 is cause I got it as compensation, I built a low-cost machine for a guy and he couldn't pay for my work so he gave me that CPU instead, he bought it for another machine which got scrapped. If it weren't for that, I'd still be waiting to see if/when Beema will come to AM1.

Personally, I think the socket is too popular to discontinue (at least around here, over 400 CPUs and motherboards sold out in less than two weeks) and the emphasis is on upgrading, which means they can't abandon it or the whole concept is dead. But then I remember 754 and it's life cycle which was practically non existent, so yeah, not sure. Either way, if you can find a cheap used dual-core AM1 Semiporn and board to serve as placeholder, it would be a no-brainer, the platform is cheap even new and used it costs as much as a bag of peanuts.


----------



## GhettoFied

That was the most informative thing I'm going to read all day. Very nice post, you're quote the typist!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Hmm... It's Memorial Day and I should be studying for exams. Do I want to do that, or do I want to type a lengthy reply?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> @CynicalUnicorn In a spoiler since it's a pretty big wall of text.


Well _excuse me_ for wanting my scroll bar to be a single pixel high.










Spoiler: MASSIVE WALL O' TEXT IS OSCAR MIKE - DANGER CLOSE! STAY FROSTY! OVER AND OUT.



Quote:


> Ouch, Minecraft is VERY CPU intensive, you'd be looking at around 60FPS on an overclocked i7, Java just doesn't play nicely with CPUs. Hopefully, it might get compiled with HSA in mind, I think I've seen an AMD roadmap showing Kabini as HSA-capable but after Kaveri got released with claims like "first with HSA" I'm not sure anymore. Indie games, a lot of them will run just fine, others might need a bit of overclocking on the CPU side. Oh, and if you intend to overclock, you need to set the drives to IDE mode to get past 105MHz on BCLK using AM1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it comes to putting a dGPU on a stock 5350, a 7750 would be a good choice, I tried dropping my 8320 to one core per CU and 2GHz to run some games and my 7770 is bottlenecked in some titles like Skyrim where you get around 30ish FPS and Starcraft II where you get a total mess in multiplayer. But games like Fallout 3 and New Vegas surprised me since they are quite playable, FO3 ran at 60FPS most of the time and that's with over 150 mods and ultra settings (Rivet City dropped to some 35FPS), same for NV but with 90ish mods, some places drop but it's nothing unplayable. For an overclocked 5350 in the 2.5-2.6GHz range, I'd say a 7770 would be a good match. For office work and web browsing, you won't have any problems.
> 
> As for Bay Trail, it's a decent low-power setup but it doesn't bring much over Kabini. A bit stronger single-threaded performance but gets obliterated in multi-threading and you'll pay the same for a dual-core system as you would for a 5350 and an AM1 board. Problem with Bay Trail is that aside from the fact that overclocking is impossible, the CPU is a BGA meaning it's soldered onto the board, you'd have to swap the entire system and pay through the nose for a new CPU+board combo instead of just swapping the CPU, you upgrade it like you do a Mac - throw it out the window and buy a new one. Plus, I don't even look at cheaper Intel units since Sandy, stock clocks make my butt itch and scratching my rear while using the PC is not something I consider acceptable.
> 
> Also, MacBook Air does have a fan, but it's practically useless since it's tiny and slow in order to be quiet. Feels like strapping an AM1 cooler set to quiet on an FX 9590 and expecting it to run cool.


Yeah... Yeah, it is. I'm not sure if my current laptop's GPU or CPU is the bottleneck, but rendering chunks is a pain. The render distance is set to the minimum. I never thought I would say this, but Minecraft for the 360 might be a better experience. But if you want to see a strain on the CPU, then check out Creeper Worlds 1 and 2. They're written in Adobe Air. If there are enough packets (used to build things or charge weapons and use A* for pathfinding) on the screen at once, or enough Drones being rendered in 2, then the game drops from 30FPS to like 10-15FPS. Since rendering a frame also includes all the calculations, the game itself slows down, so suddenly one second of game time takes two in real time. 3 is much better - it's made in Unity - but the maps are much bigger and animating air units especially can slow the game to a crawl. I can assure you that the GPU isn't an issue, and my 6300 can drop down to 8-12FPS on absolutely massive maps. Good to know regarding IDE. That would be a stupidly frustrating issue, especially since Windows only boots on IDE if installed on IDE and, since I've learned my lesson, I'm going to be sure to install on AHCI to begin with. I'm not sure if I will overclock though, but I want an ASUS board so the option is there.

Skyrim is an exception to the rule. If somebody is debating between Intel and AMD and somebody pulls up Starcraft or Skyrim benchmarks to say AMD is terrible, then they lose all credibility in my mind unless those two games specifically mentioned. x87 and singlethreaded with lots of units to render obviously make Intel a more favorable option, and I'm willing to accept that a low-power tablet APU won't be able to handle this well. I doubt Bay Trail would be much better, and I'm not sure how, for example, downclocked Haswell or Kaveri would perform. I'll stick with the stock iGPU, perhaps overclocked if the ASUS boards allow that separate from the CPU, and upgrade if I need to. Sorry, want to. "Need" makes things boring. If I needed a portable computer, then I'd just buy a laptop like normal people.









There are eight core Bay Trail systems out there, but they're pricey, they're soldered, their base clocks are surely locked, and they're intended for servers anyway. And after reading what you said more closely, I realized I just restated everything you said.








How do they fit a fan in there and expect it to do anything? And I dare you to take your 8320 up to 5GHz with an AM1 cooler. See how quickly it melts.







Don't actually do this...

Quote:


> Yeah, people often completely disregard GPU coolers as viable for CPUs but I mounted several in places where an aftermarket cooler is not an option. I remember an old machine built into a case so tiny I could barely even work in it, and a new cooler was needed. I zip-tied a modified cooler off an old 256MB DDR3 high-end Radeon on it and it ran like a dream. Speaking of which, remember old high-end AGP cards? Coolers on those looked like coolers on HTPC cards nowadays.
> 
> For Athlon 5350, a 7750 would be a nice match, even a stock 5350 has potential for an entry level gaming PC, overclocked it actually becomes decent. I'll still have to wait on overclocking mine, AM1 parts around here practically fly off the shelves so I can't find a mobo. And if you intend to be using Kaveri in this thing, I'd wait for the A8-7600 to hit the shelves, current FM2+ parts are crap compared to that thing. I'm not sure which GPUs can Kaveri crossfire with, I think a 7750 is possible to be CF'd with a Kaveri iGPU. Hmm, I'll have to look into that.
> 
> By the way, don't think about using 5350's iGPU for any kind of smooth gaming, it's basically a 5450 built on GCN and a 5450 is, well, crap. I played games on a 5450 and I don't recommend it.
> 
> And that GT 630 seems pretty good for the price, though I'd personally step up to a 640 with GDDR5 and cut the iGPU out of the equation. A 640 is about as fast as a 7750, slightly faster than a Kaveri iGPU unless you're willing to pay more for high-speed dual-channel RAM than the rest of the build (also overclock that RAM as far as it'll go) and costs roughly the same as a 7750, not to mention it has all the nVidia goodies like PhysX and GSync. Just make sure it ain't a re-branded Fermi, you want Kepler, lower power draw and heat emission.


No, I do not.







I got into hardware and upgrading stuff around Christmas 2012. I joined here almost a year ago because I decided to upgrade my laptop's 500GB HDD and ODD to a 250GB SSD and 1TB HDD, respectively, and needed some assistance to make sure I didn't break anything. Then the Xbone got announced, and all the crap that happened in the aftermath watered the seed in my brain that was already there (because Steam sales, among other things), telling me to build a gaming rig. I'm happy that I got into computers during this fairly idiot-proof time, if looking at legacy plugs and expansion cards has taught me anything.

Sounds about right. The PicoPSU I'm looking at is 120W with a variable input voltage. a 70W TDP 7750 + 25W TDP APU + maybe 10W of other stuff (two Samsung SSDs should peak at 2W, and I'm sure RAM and fans are under 8W) gives a bit of headroom. Kaveri is an option, but power would become an issue. If I were to go that route, then a 7850k with a ~3GHz CPU and ~1GHz GPU with 2133MHz RAM would be pushing it. If I'm going to be running a dGPU, then either a Haswell i3 or downclocked, unlocked i5 (why doesn't Intel unlock all chips for downclocking by default? It's not like you can overclock by cutting _down_ the multiplier) and a 750Ti would be the way to go. This is either going to be low-end or relatively high-end, nothing in-between. Since I have my rig for gaming, I'm leaning towards low-end.

Hey, I was gaming on my laptop's 4250 until I built my rig, and before that, my dad's Vista machine with a 3250. Get on my level.









Fermi? Goodness, no! Wikipedia is my friend. I'm going to assume that avoiding anything 40nm or with a chipset beginning with "GF" is a good idea. I made sure to look for the 384 shader 630s, since those are Kepler, while earlier revisions are not. They are no different than 640s other than the type of RAM used, same with 650s which are literally the same thing, other than clockspeeds, as 640s. GSync isn't going to be used unless I can find a cheap enough laptop screen that runs it, and PhysX won't be missed in the three games that use it. Again, this is approaching the high-end end of the spectrum, and I also have a server I want to finish up, which means a WD Black for a parity drive, a couple 1TB or 2TB HDDs, and an unRAID license with more drives to be added when the need arises.

Quote:


> Well, to be honest, a PC ain't effective until there's zip ties and duct tape. And yeah, cutting down the cooler does seem like not so great of an idea, you'd practically be losing over 50% of the surface area and while these things run cool, I'm honestly not sure what would happen in a SFF system with most of the cooler missing.
> 
> And that blower, I'd kill for one of those things. If you intend to use that thing for intake, I'd put it in the build to draw air from beneath and make a shroud for it to exhaust over the CPU heatsink and out of the case. That way fresh air would get into the system and be blown directly over the CPU heatsink, completely removing the need for an active cooler on Kabini while allowing for the stock heatsink to be kept, something like Kaveri would still need an active cooler though. Stock fan on an AM1 heatsink doesn't have that much airflow, I can barely even feel the breeze 15cm away from it while it runs on full blast, so that blower may actually work. Don't take my word for it, I'm just thinking out loud, it's something that would require experimenting to find out.
> 
> Oh, and I have about 20 dead PS2 Slims in my magic box, seven of them have integrated 45W 7.5V PSUs I ripped out and experiment with to get 12V output for a Pico PSU using a 1:2 ratio transformer from an Enhance PSU, an ATX PSU PWM module from that very same Enhance and a voltage limiter, and I have 13 PS2s with bricks, that's why I mentioned a PS2 blower. I also have eight that work which I fixed with parts from those dead ones. I live close to a Sony repair center and when they throw these away, I take them home, fix the ones I can and sell them, sell off the pieces I don't need as well. I got more PlayStation parts than a Sony factory.


And since it's impossible to get any sort of aftermarket cooler for the socket, irreversibly modifying the cooler is NOT on my to-do list.

Using it for intake might be difficult, but an intake vent on top and a shroud over the cooler should work well. Heck, I'm not sure I'd even need a shroud if an exhaust vent with a small fan (maybe the stock one?) is pulling air through the rear. Modding them to run on 5V is simple and will eliminate any noise and minimize power consumption.

Good job, I think! Selling them makes you a professional scavenger. You should update your resume now that you know this.









Quote:


> Hey, if there are no F-bombs while working on something, you're doing it wrong. And you guys have computer requirements in college? Apple stuff as a requirement? You guys are either all rich or your college seems to think so, if a professor were to set a Mac as a requirement here, he'd get bludgeoned to death by his students with actively used 10 year old laptops and machines running P4s.
> 
> Sheet metal is simple to work with - use metal cutters to cut it (do not use a saw, you'll just wreck it), use rivets to connect parts and if it needs welding, do it with a CO2 welder (Mig Mag) or you'll just burn a hole right through it. Low amps with a 1-1.5mm welding electrode would work with an arc welder but you'd need to pick at it carefully instead of welding in a straight line. For cutting a hole in the middle of it rather than edge, I generally use a table mounted grinder I rigged on a piece of old pipe or a ghetto drill press and then get rid of the jagged edges with a file. Sadly, anti-aliasing won't fix jagged edges when you cut metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lithium ion charging circuit shouldn't be too hard to make, you'd need to make a voltage control circuit which should be pretty simple to do with a transistor and a resistor, as well as throw in a another resistor for current control, maybe even a capacitor for cleaner DC output. Circuit design depends on exact battery capacity (mAh) and total cell pack voltage so some tweaking would be necessary if you find a schematic, shouldn't be hard to make since it's pretty simple, it's elementary school style circuitry. For example, a 12V 1Ah battery pack should be charged with a 14.2V 100mA (1.37W) charger, current needs to be 1/10th of the battery capacity and voltage needs to be ~10-15% higher than battery pack voltage in order to charge it optimally. That applies to car batteries, should be the same or similar for lithium ion, do check the ratios for Li-ion.
> 
> And current remains the same with a current control resistor so once battery's internal resistance increases as voltages start to equalize, it won't be overcharged, that's why controlling the current is very important in battery chargers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you have to take something into consideration - there's a reason why laptop batteries are all 14V and higher. Once the pack starts dropping to about 11V, s*** happens, whole thing starts turning into an overall mess. I'd advise a higher voltage pack in the range of 16-19V, dropped down to a constant 12V output with another circuit, that way you won't have to suffer from headaches due to hard drives shutting down or errors once CPU/GPU start running out of volts.
> 
> I generally use these batteries for making stuff, they are cheap and have lots of capacity (5000mAh, aka 5Ah), that kind of capacity would be minimum I'd use. Assuming the entire system draws 30W under full load on 12V, that's 2.5A of current draw, meaning that a full 5x3.7V (18.5V nominal, 20V real) 5Ah battery pack with a 12V voltage limiter would keep it running full speed ahead an estimated ~1h40m before voltage begins dropping under 12V (once batteries hit 2.4V per cell, which is damn near empty), a few minutes more or less due to variation.
> 
> You know, once I put those batteries into an old HP laptop which could idle for 3h on a brand new stock battery, the end result was a 9h movie marathon on battery power and it was still running for another hour after I left it alone. It was charging for nearly five hours though, and for comparison, stock battery would be full within an hour.
> 
> And to be honest, I have no idea what AMD plans to do with Puma, AMD is all over the place with Mullins but their lips are tight when it comes to Beema. Only reason I'm going with a 5350 is cause I got it as compensation, I built a low-cost machine for a guy and he couldn't pay for my work so he gave me that CPU instead, he bought it for another machine which got scrapped. If it weren't for that, I'd still be waiting to see if/when Beema will come to AM1.
> 
> Personally, I think the socket is too popular to discontinue (at least around here, over 400 CPUs and motherboards sold out in less than two weeks) and the emphasis is on upgrading, which means they can't abandon it or the whole concept is dead. But then I remember 754 and it's life cycle which was practically non existent, so yeah, not sure. Either way, if you can find a cheap used dual-core AM1 Semiporn and board to serve as placeholder, it would be a no-brainer, the platform is cheap even new and used it costs as much as a bag of peanuts.


That's a lot of paragraphs... Alright, here goes:

I know, right? That, and claiming to have had intercourse with the project's mother, or requesting a deity of choice to send the project to a less-than-desirable afterlife are also good words to use. And no, colleges don't require you to buy MacBooks or iPads. They give them to you free. The tuition, for some strange reason, increases by the price of one of these computers when these sorts of programs are implemented. I wonder why...









Oh boy, welding! Something I have never done before.







Fortunately this is just a glorified box, so it's not like anything too bad can happen, right? *knocks on wood* I have my trusty Dremel for removing jagged anything. I'm not sure how metallic a metal aluminium is though. It's considered a poor metal, as with any metal in the P-block of the periodic table (i.e. has a full D shell), and is almost but not quite a metalloid. More metallic metals, like the alkali metals, are extremely soft and malleable. Solid aluminium? I have no idea. Of course, I'm also overthinking this, so you can probably disregard that last paragraph.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT THESE WORDS ARE! ...Okay, I'm not _that_ ignorant of electronics, but I have never really worked with them. I'm leaning towards a number of 5 LiPo cells in series. At a full charge of ~4.2V each to a discharged ~3.6V each, they remain within the PicoPSU's 19V-25V range (or maybe it's 12V-25V, but it should remain on the higher end). Then I'd take a bunch of sets of those, probably five given how cheap 9-cell laptop batteries can get, and wire them in parallel. This also means that if I screw up the circuitry, I suddenly have a firebomb because lithium does not play nicely with oxygen or water and 25 cells is a lot of lithium. Like, I'm pretty sure I won't be allowed to take this on an airplane.

Yeah, overcharging is a bad thing. I also want to get a watchmacallit that bypasses the batteries when the computer is plugged in, so the power brick charges the battery and powers the computer totally separate from each other. Otherwise, I fear that the battery will be in a constant state of charging and discharging, and that is a bad thing.

Yup, five cells in series. I've talked some of this over with Artikbot, and I don't want to mention him or he'll have to read through like three and a half walls of text at this point.

Problem with that is that they're located in China. Apparently, selling rechargeable lithium cells is illegal in the U.S., and I don't want to have a bunch of LiPo cells seized by customs. That seems a bit sketchy. HOWEVER, those cells look SO GOOD. Five sets in parallel gives a potential 25Ah, so assuming your math is correct, that give 500 minutes or over *eight hours* of battery life!









Oh, goodness... I'll take ten sets of these things! Best $70 ever spent. Even then, you're assuming 30W full load. Realistically, it'll be drawing half or a third of that most of the time. which means 0.6 or 0.7 days of battery life can be expected.









Yeah, I've considered getting the quad-core Sempron for now and waiting (have I said this already?) to see what Puma brings. I find it unlikely that Puma will be on a new socket, since it seem like, say, Sandy to Ivy or Haswell to Broadwell, where no new socket is really needed. Since it's a SoC, everything is integrated on the die, including the southbridge. What would possibly require a new socket? Maybe more SATA ports or more USB ports? Even then, that would be easily solved by disabling those ports electrically when they don't exist physically. I dunno. It's cheap enough that a full system upgrade wouldn't be a huge deal.

Damn. That's not bad, especially for a low-end product in an already niche market. How big a city do you live in, or is this online? (Also, see the last sentence of the previous paragraph







)


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> @CynicalUnicorn In a spoiler since it's a pretty big wall of text.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, VIA Nano runs Crysis as well as my old Core 2 Duo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I never did understand the guys yapping about wanting a power efficient CPU in a machine running two graphics cards that draw well over 500W, especially when everything in that machine will be overclocked. When i comes to machines built solely for performance, you don't ask what components fit in a certain power envelope, you ask how big of a PSU you need for the most powerful components you can afford and be on your merry way. 30-40W more in a machine that will draw over 500W anyway is nothing, it's peanuts.
> 
> I can understand it in industry, where those machines run 0-24 and where power efficiency and performance/watt does matter more than sheer performance. But in a gaming machine, that's ridiculous unless it's an SFF system where you can't cram a big cooler, for a full-blown desktop built for performance you get the best you can afford, no matter the power consumption.
> 
> The advances on the low-power front bring advances to the high-end front as well, which is very good since more performance can be crammed into the same thermal/power envelope. But for some reason, ever since 754 hit the market the trend of lower-power desktop units has become more pronounced. I'd bet my left leg that if AMD were to release a 125W unit that outperforms Intel CPUs for less money, people would still buy Intel cause it uses less power. Enthusiasts would buy the fastest, but others would likely buy whatever uses less power, which just doesn't make any sense to me what so ever.
> Ouch, Minecraft is VERY CPU intensive, you'd be looking at around 60FPS on an overclocked i7, Java just doesn't play nicely with CPUs. Hopefully, it might get compiled with HSA in mind, I think I've seen an AMD roadmap showing Kabini as HSA-capable but after Kaveri got released with claims like "first with HSA" I'm not sure anymore. Indie games, a lot of them will run just fine, others might need a bit of overclocking on the CPU side. Oh, and if you intend to overclock, you need to set the drives to IDE mode to get past 105MHz on BCLK using AM1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it comes to putting a dGPU on a stock 5350, a 7750 would be a good choice, I tried dropping my 8320 to one core per CU and 2GHz to run some games and my 7770 is bottlenecked in some titles like Skyrim where you get around 30ish FPS and Starcraft II where you get a total mess in multiplayer. But games like Fallout 3 and New Vegas surprised me since they are quite playable, FO3 ran at 60FPS most of the time and that's with over 150 mods and ultra settings (Rivet City dropped to some 35FPS), same for NV but with 90ish mods, some places drop but it's nothing unplayable. For an overclocked 5350 in the 2.5-2.6GHz range, I'd say a 7770 would be a good match. For office work and web browsing, you won't have any problems.
> 
> As for Bay Trail, it's a decent low-power setup but it doesn't bring much over Kabini. A bit stronger single-threaded performance but gets obliterated in multi-threading and you'll pay the same for a dual-core system as you would for a 5350 and an AM1 board. Problem with Bay Trail is that aside from the fact that overclocking is impossible, the CPU is a BGA meaning it's soldered onto the board, you'd have to swap the entire system and pay through the nose for a new CPU+board combo instead of just swapping the CPU, you upgrade it like you do a Mac - throw it out the window and buy a new one. Plus, I don't even look at cheaper Intel units since Sandy, stock clocks make my butt itch and scratching my rear while using the PC is not something I consider acceptable.
> 
> Also, MacBook Air does have a fan, but it's practically useless since it's tiny and slow in order to be quiet. Feels like strapping an AM1 cooler set to quiet on an FX 9590 and expecting it to run cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, people often completely disregard GPU coolers as viable for CPUs but I mounted several in places where an aftermarket cooler is not an option. I remember an old machine built into a case so tiny I could barely even work in it, and a new cooler was needed. I zip-tied a modified cooler off an old 256MB DDR3 high-end Radeon on it and it ran like a dream. Speaking of which, remember old high-end AGP cards? Coolers on those looked like coolers on HTPC cards nowadays.
> 
> For Athlon 5350, a 7750 would be a nice match, even a stock 5350 has potential for an entry level gaming PC, overclocked it actually becomes decent. I'll still have to wait on overclocking mine, AM1 parts around here practically fly off the shelves so I can't find a mobo. And if you intend to be using Kaveri in this thing, I'd wait for the A8-7600 to hit the shelves, current FM2+ parts are crap compared to that thing. I'm not sure which GPUs can Kaveri crossfire with, I think a 7750 is possible to be CF'd with a Kaveri iGPU. Hmm, I'll have to look into that.
> 
> By the way, don't think about using 5350's iGPU for any kind of smooth gaming, it's basically a 5450 built on GCN and a 5450 is, well, crap. I played games on a 5450 and I don't recommend it.
> 
> And that GT 630 seems pretty good for the price, though I'd personally step up to a 640 with GDDR5 and cut the iGPU out of the equation. A 640 is about as fast as a 7750, slightly faster than a Kaveri iGPU unless you're willing to pay more for high-speed dual-channel RAM than the rest of the build (also overclock that RAM as far as it'll go) and costs roughly the same as a 7750, not to mention it has all the nVidia goodies like PhysX and GSync. Just make sure it ain't a re-branded Fermi, you want Kepler, lower power draw and heat emission.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, to be honest, a PC ain't effective until there's zip ties and duct tape. And yeah, cutting down the cooler does seem like not so great of an idea, you'd practically be losing over 50% of the surface area and while these things run cool, I'm honestly not sure what would happen in a SFF system with most of the cooler missing.
> 
> And that blower, I'd kill for one of those things. If you intend to use that thing for intake, I'd put it in the build to draw air from beneath and make a shroud for it to exhaust over the CPU heatsink and out of the case. That way fresh air would get into the system and be blown directly over the CPU heatsink, completely removing the need for an active cooler on Kabini while allowing for the stock heatsink to be kept, something like Kaveri would still need an active cooler though. Stock fan on an AM1 heatsink doesn't have that much airflow, I can barely even feel the breeze 15cm away from it while it runs on full blast, so that blower may actually work. Don't take my word for it, I'm just thinking out loud, it's something that would require experimenting to find out.
> 
> Oh, and I have about 20 dead PS2 Slims in my magic box, seven of them have integrated 45W 7.5V PSUs I ripped out and experiment with to get 12V output for a Pico PSU using a 1:2 ratio transformer from an Enhance PSU, an ATX PSU PWM module from that very same Enhance and a voltage limiter, and I have 13 PS2s with bricks, that's why I mentioned a PS2 blower. I also have eight that work which I fixed with parts from those dead ones. I live close to a Sony repair center and when they throw these away, I take them home, fix the ones I can and sell them, sell off the pieces I don't need as well. I got more PlayStation parts than a Sony factory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, if there are no F-bombs while working on something, you're doing it wrong. And you guys have computer requirements in college? Apple stuff as a requirement? You guys are either all rich or your college seems to think so, if a professor were to set a Mac as a requirement here, he'd get bludgeoned to death by his students with actively used 10 year old laptops and machines running P4s.
> 
> Sheet metal is simple to work with - use metal cutters to cut it (do not use a saw, you'll just wreck it), use rivets to connect parts and if it needs welding, do it with a CO2 welder (Mig Mag) or you'll just burn a hole right through it. Low amps with a 1-1.5mm welding electrode would work with an arc welder but you'd need to pick at it carefully instead of welding in a straight line. For cutting a hole in the middle of it rather than edge, I generally use a table mounted grinder I rigged on a piece of old pipe or a ghetto drill press and then get rid of the jagged edges with a file. Sadly, anti-aliasing won't fix jagged edges when you cut metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lithium ion charging circuit shouldn't be too hard to make, you'd need to make a voltage control circuit which should be pretty simple to do with a transistor and a resistor, as well as throw in a another resistor for current control, maybe even a capacitor for cleaner DC output. Circuit design depends on exact battery capacity (mAh) and total cell pack voltage so some tweaking would be necessary if you find a schematic, shouldn't be hard to make since it's pretty simple, it's elementary school style circuitry. For example, a 12V 1Ah battery pack should be charged with a 14.2V 100mA (1.37W) charger, current needs to be 1/10th of the battery capacity and voltage needs to be ~10-15% higher than battery pack voltage in order to charge it optimally. That applies to car batteries, should be the same or similar for lithium ion, do check the ratios for Li-ion.
> 
> And current remains the same with a current control resistor so once battery's internal resistance increases as voltages start to equalize, it won't be overcharged, that's why controlling the current is very important in battery chargers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you have to take something into consideration - there's a reason why laptop batteries are all 14V and higher. Once the pack starts dropping to about 11V, s*** happens, whole thing starts turning into an overall mess. I'd advise a higher voltage pack in the range of 16-19V, dropped down to a constant 12V output with another circuit, that way you won't have to suffer from headaches due to hard drives shutting down or errors once CPU/GPU start running out of volts.
> 
> I generally use these batteries for making stuff, they are cheap and have lots of capacity (5000mAh, aka 5Ah), that kind of capacity would be minimum I'd use. Assuming the entire system draws 30W under full load on 12V, that's 2.5A of current draw, meaning that a full 5x3.7V (18.5V nominal, 20V real) 5Ah battery pack with a 12V voltage limiter would keep it running full speed ahead an estimated ~1h40m before voltage begins dropping under 12V (once batteries hit 2.4V per cell, which is damn near empty), a few minutes more or less due to variation.
> 
> You know, once I put those batteries into an old HP laptop which could idle for 3h on a brand new stock battery, the end result was a 9h movie marathon on battery power and it was still running for another hour after I left it alone. It was charging for nearly five hours though, and for comparison, stock battery would be full within an hour.
> 
> And to be honest, I have no idea what AMD plans to do with Puma, AMD is all over the place with Mullins but their lips are tight when it comes to Beema. Only reason I'm going with a 5350 is cause I got it as compensation, I built a low-cost machine for a guy and he couldn't pay for my work so he gave me that CPU instead, he bought it for another machine which got scrapped. If it weren't for that, I'd still be waiting to see if/when Beema will come to AM1.
> 
> Personally, I think the socket is too popular to discontinue (at least around here, over 400 CPUs and motherboards sold out in less than two weeks) and the emphasis is on upgrading, which means they can't abandon it or the whole concept is dead. But then I remember 754 and it's life cycle which was practically non existent, so yeah, not sure. Either way, if you can find a cheap used dual-core AM1 Semiporn and board to serve as placeholder, it would be a no-brainer, the platform is cheap even new and used it costs as much as a bag of peanuts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Hmm... It's Memorial Day and I should be studying for exams. Do I want to do that, or do I want to type a lengthy reply?
> Well excuse me for wanting my scroll bar to be a single pixel high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: MASSIVE WALL O' TEXT IS OSCAR MIKE - DANGER CLOSE! STAY FROSTY! OVER AND OUT.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah... Yeah, it is. I'm not sure if my current laptop's GPU or CPU is the bottleneck, but rendering chunks is a pain. The render distance is set to the minimum. I never thought I would say this, but Minecraft for the 360 might be a better experience. But if you want to see a strain on the CPU, then check out Creeper Worlds 1 and 2. They're written in Adobe Air. If there are enough packets (used to build things or charge weapons and use A* for pathfinding) on the screen at once, or enough Drones being rendered in 2, then the game drops from 30FPS to like 10-15FPS. Since rendering a frame also includes all the calculations, the game itself slows down, so suddenly one second of game time takes two in real time. 3 is much better - it's made in Unity - but the maps are much bigger and animating air units especially can slow the game to a crawl. I can assure you that the GPU isn't an issue, and my 6300 can drop down to 8-12FPS on absolutely massive maps. Good to know regarding IDE. That would be a stupidly frustrating issue, especially since Windows only boots on IDE if installed on IDE and, since I've learned my lesson, I'm going to be sure to install on AHCI to begin with. I'm not sure if I will overclock though, but I want an ASUS board so the option is there.
> 
> Skyrim is an exception to the rule. If somebody is debating between Intel and AMD and somebody pulls up Starcraft or Skyrim benchmarks to say AMD is terrible, then they lose all credibility in my mind unless those two games specifically mentioned. x87 and singlethreaded with lots of units to render obviously make Intel a more favorable option, and I'm willing to accept that a low-power tablet APU won't be able to handle this well. I doubt Bay Trail would be much better, and I'm not sure how, for example, downclocked Haswell or Kaveri would perform. I'll stick with the stock iGPU, perhaps overclocked if the ASUS boards allow that separate from the CPU, and upgrade if I need to. Sorry, want to. "Need" makes things boring. If I needed a portable computer, then I'd just buy a laptop like normal people.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are eight core Bay Trail systems out there, but they're pricey, they're soldered, their base clocks are surely locked, and they're intended for servers anyway. And after reading what you said more closely, I realized I just restated everything you said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do they fit a fan in there and expect it to do anything? And I dare you to take your 8320 up to 5GHz with an AM1 cooler. See how quickly it melts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't actually do this...
> No, I do not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got into hardware and upgrading stuff around Christmas 2012. I joined here almost a year ago because I decided to upgrade my laptop's 500GB HDD and ODD to a 250GB SSD and 1TB HDD, respectively, and needed some assistance to make sure I didn't break anything. Then the Xbone got announced, and all the crap that happened in the aftermath watered the seed in my brain that was already there (because Steam sales, among other things), telling me to build a gaming rig. I'm happy that I got into computers during this fairly idiot-proof time, if looking at legacy plugs and expansion cards has taught me anything.
> 
> Sounds about right. The PicoPSU I'm looking at is 120W with a variable input voltage. a 70W TDP 7750 + 25W TDP APU + maybe 10W of other stuff (two Samsung SSDs should peak at 2W, and I'm sure RAM and fans are under 8W) gives a bit of headroom. Kaveri is an option, but power would become an issue. If I were to go that route, then a 7850k with a ~3GHz CPU and ~1GHz GPU with 2133MHz RAM would be pushing it. If I'm going to be running a dGPU, then either a Haswell i3 or downclocked, unlocked i5 (why doesn't Intel unlock all chips for downclocking by default? It's not like you can overclock by cutting down the multiplier) and a 750Ti would be the way to go. This is either going to be low-end or relatively high-end, nothing in-between. Since I have my rig for gaming, I'm leaning towards low-end.
> 
> Hey, I was gaming on my laptop's 4250 until I built my rig, and before that, my dad's Vista machine with a 3250. Get on my level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fermi? Goodness, no! Wikipedia is my friend. I'm going to assume that avoiding anything 40nm or with a chipset beginning with "GF" is a good idea. I made sure to look for the 384 shader 630s, since those are Kepler, while earlier revisions are not. They are no different than 640s other than the type of RAM used, same with 650s which are literally the same thing, other than clockspeeds, as 640s. GSync isn't going to be used unless I can find a cheap enough laptop screen that runs it, and PhysX won't be missed in the three games that use it. Again, this is approaching the high-end end of the spectrum, and I also have a server I want to finish up, which means a WD Black for a parity drive, a couple 1TB or 2TB HDDs, and an unRAID license with more drives to be added when the need arises.
> And since it's impossible to get any sort of aftermarket cooler for the socket, irreversibly modifying the cooler is NOT on my to-do list.
> 
> Using it for intake might be difficult, but an intake vent on top and a shroud over the cooler should work well. Heck, I'm not sure I'd even need a shroud if an exhaust vent with a small fan (maybe the stock one?) is pulling air through the rear. Modding them to run on 5V is simple and will eliminate any noise and minimize power consumption.
> 
> Good job, I think! Selling them makes you a professional scavenger. You should update your resume now that you know this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a lot of paragraphs... Alright, here goes:
> 
> I know, right? That, and claiming to have had intercourse with the project's mother, or requesting a deity of choice to send the project to a less-than-desirable afterlife are also good words to use. And no, colleges don't require you to buy MacBooks or iPads. They give them to you free. The tuition, for some strange reason, increases by the price of one of these computers when these sorts of programs are implemented. I wonder why...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh boy, welding! Something I have never done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately this is just a glorified box, so it's not like anything too bad can happen, right? *knocks on wood* I have my trusty Dremel for removing jagged anything. I'm not sure how metallic a metal aluminium is though. It's considered a poor metal, as with any metal in the P-block of the periodic table (i.e. has a full D shell), and is almost but not quite a metalloid. More metallic metals, like the alkali metals, are extremely soft and malleable. Solid aluminium? I have no idea. Of course, I'm also overthinking this, so you can probably disregard that last paragraph.
> 
> I DON'T KNOW WHAT THESE WORDS ARE! ...Okay, I'm not that ignorant of electronics, but I have never really worked with them. I'm leaning towards a number of 5 LiPo cells in series. At a full charge of ~4.2V each to a discharged ~3.6V each, they remain within the PicoPSU's 19V-25V range (or maybe it's 12V-25V, but it should remain on the higher end). Then I'd take a bunch of sets of those, probably five given how cheap 9-cell laptop batteries can get, and wire them in parallel. This also means that if I screw up the circuitry, I suddenly have a firebomb because lithium does not play nicely with oxygen or water and 25 cells is a lot of lithium. Like, I'm pretty sure I won't be allowed to take this on an airplane.
> 
> Yeah, overcharging is a bad thing. I also want to get a watchmacallit that bypasses the batteries when the computer is plugged in, so the power brick charges the battery and powers the computer totally separate from each other. Otherwise, I fear that the battery will be in a constant state of charging and discharging, and that is a bad thing.
> 
> Yup, five cells in series. I've talked some of this over with Artikbot, and I don't want to mention him or he'll have to read through like three and a half walls of text at this point.
> 
> Problem with that is that they're located in China. Apparently, selling rechargeable lithium cells is illegal in the U.S., and I don't want to have a bunch of LiPo cells seized by customs. That seems a bit sketchy. HOWEVER, those cells look SO GOOD. Five sets in parallel gives a potential 25Ah, so assuming your math is correct, that give 500 minutes or over *eight hours* of battery life!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, goodness... I'll take ten sets of these things! Best $70 ever spent. Even then, you're assuming 30W full load. Realistically, it'll be drawing half or a third of that most of the time. which means 0.6 or 0.7 days of battery life can be expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've considered getting the quad-core Sempron for now and waiting (have I said this already?) to see what Puma brings. I find it unlikely that Puma will be on a new socket, since it seem like, say, Sandy to Ivy or Haswell to Broadwell, where no new socket is really needed. Since it's a SoC, everything is integrated on the die, including the southbridge. What would possibly require a new socket? Maybe more SATA ports or more USB ports? Even then, that would be easily solved by disabling those ports electrically when they don't exist physically. I dunno. It's cheap enough that a full system upgrade wouldn't be a huge deal.
> 
> Damn. That's not bad, especially for a low-end product in an already niche market. How big a city do you live in, or is this online? (Also, see the last sentence of the previous paragraph
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Can I just call you guys next time I have a term paper to write?


----------



## djthrottleboi

These last conversations make me want to go back to 10 posts per page. 100 posts are just to long and my mouses fast scrolling mode does not help.


----------



## RED_LINE

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned this before, but 3M double sided tape or equivalent instead of using screws to mount fans... awesome replacement


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> These last conversations make me want to go back to 10 posts per page. 100 posts are just to long and my mouses fast scrolling mode does not help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Can I just call you guys next time I have a term paper to write?


D'aw, thanks for being so supportive!







What else am I supposed to do with my day off? Productive things?


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> These last conversations make me want to go back to 10 posts per page. 100 posts are just to long and my mouses fast scrolling mode does not help.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Can I just call you guys next time I have a term paper to write?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> D'aw, thanks for being so supportive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What else am I supposed to do with my day off? Productive things?
Click to expand...

productive is for autocad. we are gamers who watch moddingporn


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Can I just call you guys next time I have a term paper to write?


Yeah I got a 400 page report due in a while maybe I can get these guys to do it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> productive is for autocad. we are gamers who watch moddingporn


Speak for yourself bro. Ghettomodding is done so the productivity can start back up faster.


----------



## Werne

Hmm, these keyboard batteries just refuse to die! Alrighty then... *cracks knuckles* Round 3...


Spoiler: Yup, this sure is a spoiler



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Hmm... It's Memorial Day and I should be studying for exams. Do I want to do that, or do I want to type a lengthy reply?


We are the OCN. Lower your books and start typing. Resistance is futile.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Yeah... Yeah, it is. I'm not sure if my current laptop's GPU or CPU is the bottleneck, but rendering chunks is a pain. The render distance is set to the minimum. I never thought I would say this, but Minecraft for the 360 might be a better experience. But if you want to see a strain on the CPU, then check out Creeper Worlds 1 and 2. They're written in Adobe Air. If there are enough packets (used to build things or charge weapons and use A* for pathfinding) on the screen at once, or enough Drones being rendered in 2, then the game drops from 30FPS to like 10-15FPS. Since rendering a frame also includes all the calculations, the game itself slows down, so suddenly one second of game time takes two in real time. 3 is much better - it's made in Unity - but the maps are much bigger and animating air units especially can slow the game to a crawl. I can assure you that the GPU isn't an issue, and my 6300 can drop down to 8-12FPS on absolutely massive maps. Good to know regarding IDE. That would be a stupidly frustrating issue, especially since Windows only boots on IDE if installed on IDE and, since I've learned my lesson, I'm going to be sure to install on AHCI to begin with. I'm not sure if I will overclock though, but I want an ASUS board so the option is there.
> 
> Skyrim is an exception to the rule. If somebody is debating between Intel and AMD and somebody pulls up Starcraft or Skyrim benchmarks to say AMD is terrible, then they lose all credibility in my mind unless those two games specifically mentioned. x87 and singlethreaded with lots of units to render obviously make Intel a more favorable option, and I'm willing to accept that a low-power tablet APU won't be able to handle this well. I doubt Bay Trail would be much better, and I'm not sure how, for example, downclocked Haswell or Kaveri would perform. I'll stick with the stock iGPU, perhaps overclocked if the ASUS boards allow that separate from the CPU, and upgrade if I need to. Sorry, want to. "Need" makes things boring. If I needed a portable computer, then I'd just buy a laptop like normal people.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are eight core Bay Trail systems out there, but they're pricey, they're soldered, their base clocks are surely locked, and they're intended for servers anyway. And after reading what you said more closely, I realized I just restated everything you said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do they fit a fan in there and expect it to do anything? And I dare you to take your 8320 up to 5GHz with an AM1 cooler. See how quickly it melts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't actually do this...


Slow motion games, reminds me of setting iFPSClamp in Skyrim to 180. Kinda liked it though, chopping people's heads off in slow motion is awesome.









And I didn't know Windows boots off IDE once installed on IDE, which kinda explains why I couldn't get my old Windows installation running when I upgraded to Core 2 Duo from an old 939 platform. Not sure why it happens though, could be that Windows loads kernel drivers through registry settings, blacklisting the AHCI driver for boot partition. Kinda stupid though, automatic load and detect like Linux has would be much better.

And yeah, once guys start throwing around Skyrim and Starcraft in "Intel vs AMD" threads it becomes crap. Aside from the fact that Skyrim's Gamebryo engine utilizes x87 code AMD disabled on Bulldozer/Piledriver, the game itself is coded so bad I'm surprised it even runs. I've seen so many scripting errors and useless things while modding it that the whole game starts looking like it's held together with duct tape (ghetto Skyrim). One script was even set to run in an infinite loop, taking up CPU cycles for no reason. I understand Starcraft though, it's a strategy game where things can't run parallel and must be executed serially, it's not the kind of game capable of utilizing multithreading and demands strong cores.

Downclocked Kaveri would perform pretty bad in games like those, Kaveri is as fast as Kabini clock-for-clock since it's architectural advances bring ~10% compared to Piledriver but just like Piledriver it loses ~15% total performance due to scaling compared to traditional cores, and PD is ~10% slower than Kabini, so yeah, they are pretty equal. Haswell would be able to handle those games better, but Haswell has issues of it's own. You know how guys complain about Intel CPUs running hot? That's in a tower case, in an SFF with severely limited airflow compared to a tower it becomes a MacBook.









Speaking of MacBooks, the only reason they have a fan is so the CPU doesn't throttle, but the CPU runs at close to 100C under load and idles at around 50C. Normal laptops are either designed to be cool and quiet but slow, quiet and relatively fast but warm, cool and high-performance but loud or hot and high-performance but relatively quiet, MacBook is quiet, fast and hot as the depths of hell. And in conditions like summer here on the Mediterranean (think 35C, in the shade), you're looking at close to 75C on idle, hence why a lot of tourists who use their MacBook on the beach instead of an air conditioned hotel room end up in the Apple repair center going "AAAHHH IT BURNS!!!".

By the way, I might try and see if the Kabini cooler can keep an undervolted stock 8320 without turbo cool enough to run normally. I highly doubt it, but my Vishera will gladly try it in the name of science.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> No, I do not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got into hardware and upgrading stuff around Christmas 2012. I joined here almost a year ago because I decided to upgrade my laptop's 500GB HDD and ODD to a 250GB SSD and 1TB HDD, respectively, and needed some assistance to make sure I didn't break anything. Then the Xbone got announced, and all the crap that happened in the aftermath watered the seed in my brain that was already there (because Steam sales, among other things), telling me to build a gaming rig. I'm happy that I got into computers during this fairly idiot-proof time, if looking at legacy plugs and expansion cards has taught me anything.
> 
> Sounds about right. The PicoPSU I'm looking at is 120W with a variable input voltage. a 70W TDP 7750 + 25W TDP APU + maybe 10W of other stuff (two Samsung SSDs should peak at 2W, and I'm sure RAM and fans are under 8W) gives a bit of headroom. Kaveri is an option, but power would become an issue. If I were to go that route, then a 7850k with a ~3GHz CPU and ~1GHz GPU with 2133MHz RAM would be pushing it. If I'm going to be running a dGPU, then either a Haswell i3 or downclocked, unlocked i5 (why doesn't Intel unlock all chips for downclocking by default? It's not like you can overclock by cutting _down_ the multiplier) and a 750Ti would be the way to go. This is either going to be low-end or relatively high-end, nothing in-between. Since I have my rig for gaming, I'm leaning towards low-end.
> 
> Hey, I was gaming on my laptop's 4250 until I built my rig, and before that, my dad's Vista machine with a 3250. Get on my level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fermi? Goodness, no! Wikipedia is my friend. I'm going to assume that avoiding anything 40nm or with a chipset beginning with "GF" is a good idea. I made sure to look for the 384 shader 630s, since those are Kepler, while earlier revisions are not. They are no different than 640s other than the type of RAM used, same with 650s which are literally the same thing, other than clockspeeds, as 640s. GSync isn't going to be used unless I can find a cheap enough laptop screen that runs it, and PhysX won't be missed in the three games that use it. Again, this is approaching the high-end end of the spectrum, and I also have a server I want to finish up, which means a WD Black for a parity drive, a couple 1TB or 2TB HDDs, and an unRAID license with more drives to be added when the need arises.


Well, back in the day the high-end graphics cards couldn't exceed the TDP of about 100W due to temperature problems, coolers back in the day didn't have vapor chambers or heatpipes like they do nowadays since those types of coolers began appearing about the same time Pentium 4 came out. The old GPU cooler were, plain and simple, solid aluminum with a copper GPU base. Or aluminum strips put onto a solid aluminum plate with a press. They very much resemble today's HTPC card coolers, both in size and looks.

And yeah, you're lucky you got in recently, back in the day assembling PCs was like trying to connect four cable TV boxes at the same time. SATA can plug in only one way but some of the old IDE cables didn't have any markings as to how do they connect, you could flip them around and spend whole day troubleshooting why doesn't your optical drive work. Some people think it was hell, but it really wasn't that bad.









And don't push the Pico PSU to the limit, those things aren't very trustworthy and a 70W graphics card can pull over 70W on peak, as well as how a 25W CPU can pull over 25W peak, although the GPU is a much bigger concern. I'd say a safe constant for a Pico PSU is 80% of the rating like it is for any PSU, I'd advise against pushing higher, especially not above 90%. If you're thinking about pairing a dGPU with Kabini, something like a GTX 750 would be the highest power GPU I'd connect to a system running off a Pico PSU.

Just so you know, I was playing games on a Radeon 4350 since 2007 up to last year. I'm already at your level.









Looking up if it's a Fermi GPU is smart, Fermi is the reason people used to make jokes about nVidia cards running hot, nVidia got burned (pun intended) by releasing Fermi in it's 400 series iteration. The 500 series is an improvement over the egg fryer 480 which ran as how as a reference 290X, but it's still a power hog. Kepler is the first iteration of GeForce cards that brought in major power consumption improvements, as well as an improved reference cooler comapred to the one held together with wood screws (nVidia, the way it's meant to be screwed







), which ended all the hot jokes. Not to mention Kepler is faster than Fermi by quite a bit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> And since it's impossible to get any sort of aftermarket cooler for the socket, irreversibly modifying the cooler is NOT on my to-do list.
> 
> Using it for intake might be difficult, but an intake vent on top and a shroud over the cooler should work well. Heck, I'm not sure I'd even need a shroud if an exhaust vent with a small fan (maybe the stock one?) is pulling air through the rear. Modding them to run on 5V is simple and will eliminate any noise and minimize power consumption.
> 
> Good job, I think! Selling them makes you a professional scavenger. You should update your resume now that you know this.


No aftermarket coolers? When using zip ties, there are plenty of aftermarket coolers.









Hmm, intake fan on the rear could work, but I'd still put up a shroud, a piece of cardboard wrapped in duct tape would do just fine. Back when my fan died on an old Freezer 11 I wrapped it in packaging tape and made a shroud between it and the rear fan using the said tape, it actually worked better than the original fan. Shroud serves to direct the airflow towards a certain component, in this case a cooler, without it much of the airflow is lost. Then again, it's not like this thing needs high-end cooling or something, so even a simple fan without a shroud might work. Requires experimenting to check.

Professional scavenger? Yeah, that would sound mighty fine on my resume - Werne, electromechanical engineer and professional scavenger. You know, that actually does sound awesome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That's a lot of paragraphs... Alright, here goes:
> 
> I know, right? That, and claiming to have had intercourse with the project's mother, or requesting a deity of choice to send the project to a less-than-desirable afterlife are also good words to use. And no, colleges don't require you to buy MacBooks or iPads. They give them to you free. The tuition, for some strange reason, increases by the price of one of these computers when these sorts of programs are implemented. I wonder why...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh boy, welding! Something I have never done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately this is just a glorified box, so it's not like anything too bad can happen, right? *knocks on wood* I have my trusty Dremel for removing jagged anything. I'm not sure how metallic a metal aluminium is though. It's considered a poor metal, as with any metal in the P-block of the periodic table (i.e. has a full D shell), and is almost but not quite a metalloid. More metallic metals, like the alkali metals, are extremely soft and malleable. Solid aluminium? I have no idea. Of course, I'm also overthinking this, so you can probably disregard that last paragraph.
> 
> I DON'T KNOW WHAT THESE WORDS ARE! ...Okay, I'm not _that_ ignorant of electronics, but I have never really worked with them. I'm leaning towards a number of 5 LiPo cells in series. At a full charge of ~4.2V each to a discharged ~3.6V each, they remain within the PicoPSU's 19V-25V range (or maybe it's 12V-25V, but it should remain on the higher end). Then I'd take a bunch of sets of those, probably five given how cheap 9-cell laptop batteries can get, and wire them in parallel. This also means that if I screw up the circuitry, I suddenly have a firebomb because lithium does not play nicely with oxygen or water and 25 cells is a lot of lithium. Like, I'm pretty sure I won't be allowed to take this on an airplane.
> 
> Yeah, overcharging is a bad thing. I also want to get a watchmacallit that bypasses the batteries when the computer is plugged in, so the power brick charges the battery and powers the computer totally separate from each other. Otherwise, I fear that the battery will be in a constant state of charging and discharging, and that is a bad thing.
> 
> Yup, five cells in series. I've talked some of this over with Artikbot, and I don't want to mention him or he'll have to read through like three and a half walls of text at this point.
> 
> Problem with that is that they're located in China. Apparently, selling rechargeable lithium cells is illegal in the U.S., and I don't want to have a bunch of LiPo cells seized by customs. That seems a bit sketchy. HOWEVER, those cells look SO GOOD. Five sets in parallel gives a potential 25Ah, so assuming your math is correct, that give 500 minutes or over *eight hours* of battery life!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, goodness... I'll take ten sets of these things! Best $70 ever spent. Even then, you're assuming 30W full load. Realistically, it'll be drawing half or a third of that most of the time. which means 0.6 or 0.7 days of battery life can be expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've considered getting the quad-core Sempron for now and waiting (have I said this already?) to see what Puma brings. I find it unlikely that Puma will be on a new socket, since it seem like, say, Sandy to Ivy or Haswell to Broadwell, where no new socket is really needed. Since it's a SoC, everything is integrated on the die, including the southbridge. What would possibly require a new socket? Maybe more SATA ports or more USB ports? Even then, that would be easily solved by disabling those ports electrically when they don't exist physically. I dunno. It's cheap enough that a full system upgrade wouldn't be a huge deal.
> 
> Damn. That's not bad, especially for a low-end product in an already niche market. How big a city do you live in, or is this online? (Also, see the last sentence of the previous paragraph
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yeah, but the English language is very bad when it comes to such words, which is why I'm glad to have been born on the Balkans. Out here, curses aren't just curses, they are a way of life. We invent more curses yearly than we have words in the dictionary.









And giving away MacBooks in college... seeing how many colleges there are in US and how hot those those things get, there's no wonder we have problems with global warming. Save the planet, stop using MacBooks!









Hey, welding is easy, provided that you know how a welder works. You adjust the right amperage for the material, pick the right electrode for the job and go at it. And I don't like dremels, I got one but I only ever used it for engraving things, when it comes to removing jaggies on metal I prefer a file, does the job much faster if you pick the right one. Aluminum is pretty easy to shape, cut and sand down to whatever you want, it's also pretty bendy. It's not as soft as gold but it ain't as hard as steel, it's easy to shape. Just don't weld it with anything other than a CO2 welder, that thing burns faster than a MacBook on the summer sun in Sahara.

Oops, I tend to forget that not everyone knows this stuff, sorry about that.







Anyway, five cells should be at ~21V (~4.2V per cell) under full charge and around ~12V (~2.4V per cell) discharged. Cells are generally either 3.6 or 3.7V nominal and 4.1 or 4.2V real charge. You know the serial/parallel connections which is pretty good, I've seen electricians that don't know which is which. And lithium cells don't explode just like that, a lithium cell needs a ~60% overcurrent for catastrophic failure which can be achieved either by overcharging without current limitation or causing a short circuit. That or overheating it to insane levels.

Separating the battery from the machine while charging is smart, a constant state of charge/discharge can build up heat in the cells, causing cells to overheat and rupture, effectively killing the cell and knocking a pack out.

Wait, why is selling lithium cells illegal? Out here I can go and order a whole shipping container of those without a problem. And yeah, assuming I'm correct, five packs with a total capacity of 25Ah would be capable of giving a total in excess of 8h life time under full load, more than one whole day of web browsing (~10W average) or about two days of idle time (~5W average). I use those batteries for pretty much anything nowadays, they are dirt cheap (two rechargeable 2Ah AAA batteries from a local store would cost me more) and three of those have enough capacity to make a bike turn on.

Well, with 10 packs you sure won't suffer from lack of battery power.







And assuming a half or third of power, yeah, estimated time is about 16-24h of use.

As far as I understand, Kabini has pretty much everything except VRMs integrated into the unit, so the only reason to actually move away from the socket is if there is DDR4/GDDR5M support added or if AMD actually pulls a Haswell and integrates VRMs onto the unit itself, so the board would basically become a simple carrier to power the unit. And I think I saw that AMD will be adding IVRs on the CPU soon, meaning even VRMs will be integrated, so the actual need for a new socket is non-existent other than for newer standards that utilize different physical connectors. With the low price and having a safe upgrade path, it's a decent platform.









It's being sold out in the entire country, I look mainly in the Links store chain but even the online sites are showing shortages. Just the one local store here sold over 400 units, and the city consists of ~80,000 people (~500,000 during summer). Then again, it doesn't surprise me, it's a decent performing low power unit for a casual user with integrated graphics good enough for general use and it costs very little compared to an FM2/1150 setup with similar features. Compared to US prices, this thing is pretty expensive (~$82 for Athlon 5350, $50 for the motherboard) but compared to our local prices, it's dirt cheap.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> These last conversations make me want to go back to 10 posts per page. 100 posts are just to long and my mouses fast scrolling mode does not help.


Well, why not do it the old fashioned way from a time before scroll wheels? Get a firm grip on that scroll bar and pull as hard as you can, then just keep going till you pull through.

Oh, and don't forget to yell "HEY HO!" while pulling, it makes the whole thing much more amusing for whoever is in the room with you.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Hmm, these keyboard batteries just refuse to die! Alrighty then... *cracks knuckles* Round 3...


LET'S GO!











Spoiler: You know the drill by now...



Quote:


> Slow motion games, reminds me of setting iFPSClamp in Skyrim to 180. Kinda liked it though, chopping people's heads off in slow motion is awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I didn't know Windows boots off IDE once installed on IDE, which kinda explains why I couldn't get my old Windows installation running when I upgraded to Core 2 Duo from an old 939 platform. Not sure why it happens though, could be that Windows loads kernel drivers through registry settings, blacklisting the AHCI driver for boot partition. Kinda stupid though, automatic load and detect like Linux has would be much better.
> 
> And yeah, once guys start throwing around Skyrim and Starcraft in "Intel vs AMD" threads it becomes crap. Aside from the fact that Skyrim's Gamebryo engine utilizes x87 code AMD disabled on Bulldozer/Piledriver, the game itself is coded so bad I'm surprised it even runs. I've seen so many scripting errors and useless things while modding it that the whole game starts looking like it's held together with duct tape (ghetto Skyrim). One script was even set to run in an infinite loop, taking up CPU cycles for no reason. I understand Starcraft though, it's a strategy game where things can't run parallel and must be executed serially, it's not the kind of game capable of utilizing multithreading and demands strong cores.
> 
> Downclocked Kaveri would perform pretty bad in games like those, Kaveri is as fast as Kabini clock-for-clock since it's architectural advances bring ~10% compared to Piledriver but just like Piledriver it loses ~15% total performance due to scaling compared to traditional cores, and PD is ~10% slower than Kabini, so yeah, they are pretty equal. Haswell would be able to handle those games better, but Haswell has issues of it's own. You know how guys complain about Intel CPUs running hot? That's in a tower case, in an SFF with severely limited airflow compared to a tower it becomes a MacBook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of MacBooks, the only reason they have a fan is so the CPU doesn't throttle, but the CPU runs at close to 100C under load and idles at around 50C. Normal laptops are either designed to be cool and quiet but slow, quiet and relatively fast but warm, cool and high-performance but loud or hot and high-performance but relatively quiet, MacBook is quiet, fast and hot as the depths of hell. And in conditions like summer here on the Mediterranean (think 35C, in the shade), you're looking at close to 75C on idle, hence why a lot of tourists who use their MacBook on the beach instead of an air conditioned hotel room end up in the Apple repair center going "AAAHHH IT BURNS!!!".
> 
> By the way, I might try and see if the Kabini cooler can keep an undervolted stock 8320 without turbo cool enough to run normally. I highly doubt it, but my Vishera will gladly try it in the name of science.


Yeah, it's a bit annoying for the levels that aren't exactly difficult but just require holding the line and thinning out the enemy to advance. Plus, there's an option to advance it frame-by-frame and an option to run at half speed anyway.

Yup. Very dumb. It can be changed, but it's overly complicated.

Oh, wow. They didn't just implement x87 poorly, they didn't implement it at all. That explains a lot. How exactly has Skyrim, given how poorly it runs, become such a popular game to mod? I guess the same can be said for GTA IV.

Intel, as in Ivy and Haswell, run hot, but they produce less heat than anything AMD. Crappy thermal paste = crappy heat transfer = more energy locked up in the die = more temperature, since temperature is just average kinetic energy. A bucket of ice has more thermal energy than a cup of boiling water, but the cup of boiling water has a 35% higher temperature or so. We'll need to wait and see how Haswell Refresh handles. I predict it will be worse than delidded Haswell but far better than stock Haswell. Piledriver is 10% slower than Kabini? Yeah, that's about right given the benchmarks. I guess your 2GHz 8320 you mentioned would be better than the 1.6GHz Athlon but slower than the 2GHz Athlon?

Form over function or function over form. Pick one. I like minimalist aluminium as much as the next guy, but can we at least make it not painful to touch?

You're nuts!









Quote:


> Well, back in the day the high-end graphics cards couldn't exceed the TDP of about 100W due to temperature problems, coolers back in the day didn't have vapor chambers or heatpipes like they do nowadays since those types of coolers began appearing about the same time Pentium 4 came out. The old GPU cooler were, plain and simple, solid aluminum with a copper GPU base. Or aluminum strips put onto a solid aluminum plate with a press. They very much resemble today's HTPC card coolers, both in size and looks.
> 
> And yeah, you're lucky you got in recently, back in the day assembling PCs was like trying to connect four cable TV boxes at the same time. SATA can plug in only one way but some of the old IDE cables didn't have any markings as to how do they connect, you could flip them around and spend whole day troubleshooting why doesn't your optical drive work. Some people think it was hell, but it really wasn't that bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And don't push the Pico PSU to the limit, those things aren't very trustworthy and a 70W graphics card can pull over 70W on peak, as well as how a 25W CPU can pull over 25W peak, although the GPU is a much bigger concern. I'd say a safe constant for a Pico PSU is 80% of the rating like it is for any PSU, I'd advise against pushing higher, especially not above 90%. If you're thinking about pairing a dGPU with Kabini, something like a GTX 750 would be the highest power GPU I'd connect to a system running off a Pico PSU.
> 
> Just so you know, I was playing games on a Radeon 4350 since 2007 up to last year. I'm already at your level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking up if it's a Fermi GPU is smart, Fermi is the reason people used to make jokes about nVidia cards running hot, nVidia got burned (pun intended) by releasing Fermi in it's 400 series iteration. The 500 series is an improvement over the egg fryer 480 which ran as how as a reference 290X, but it's still a power hog. Kepler is the first iteration of GeForce cards that brought in major power consumption improvements, as well as an improved reference cooler comapred to the one held together with wood screws (nVidia, the way it's meant to be screwed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), which ended all the hot jokes. Not to mention Kepler is faster than Fermi by quite a bit.


From what I've seen, coolers really advanced several years ago and then stagnated. Noctua spent years and millions (probably) developing a successor to their flagship and got something negligibly better. $80 for a single Kelvin lower temperature? No. No thank you. Solid metal blocks aren't ineffective for their purposes though as long as they have airflow. 150W is pushing it if my 99C XFX 7850 (while mining and during the winter) is indicative of anything.

The only plugs that aren't idiot-proof are 8-pin CPU and PCIe plugs, but those are usually labeled, and USB 2.0 and Firewire headers, but the latter is pretty uncommon and useless. SATA having the L-shaped "key" is a very nice development, and having fewer cables and plugs that can suffer from bent pins is nice as well.

Yeah, that sounds about right. 100W max then. I could always run this off a Kill-a-Watt or my UPS (which has a power monitor built in as long as the software is installed`) if it's borderline too much. I just want a 150W variable voltage input PicoPSU. A bunch more options become available.

Ah, well, in that case... When a more than one layer of AA breaks games five years older than my laptop, there is a problem. The worst part is that your GPU has twice the shaders as mine, and you probably had it clocked higher, so I can still be smug about this.







It's still bad, just not as bad.

Yeah... References 480s being louder than 290Xs? Hilarious! However, Hawaii is pretty close to Kepler clock-for-clock in terms of power consumption. Stock Kepler is just slower than stock Hawaii is all. What I find really scary about the direction Nvidia has gone is how much they've done in such a short time. A 750Ti is about as fast as a 480. A 750i uses a quarter the energy of a 480. I'll decide on a GPU once we learn more about Maxwell and the 800 series.

Quote:


> No aftermarket coolers? When using zip ties, there are plenty of aftermarket coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, intake fan on the rear could work, but I'd still put up a shroud, a piece of cardboard wrapped in duct tape would do just fine. Back when my fan died on an old Freezer 11 I wrapped it in packaging tape and made a shroud between it and the rear fan using the said tape, it actually worked better than the original fan. Shroud serves to direct the airflow towards a certain component, in this case a cooler, without it much of the airflow is lost. Then again, it's not like this thing needs high-end cooling or something, so even a simple fan without a shroud might work. Requires experimenting to check.
> 
> Professional scavenger? Yeah, that would sound mighty fine on my resume - Werne, electromechanical engineer and professional scavenger. You know, that actually does sound awesome


Technically yes, but I don't want to break the only officially supported cooler.

If a cooler works well passive, then just a little airflow should slash temperatures. If I can get a small current flowing through the radiator, then everything should work. I'm assuming that, as long as there is an intake and an exhaust nearby, no shroud will be needed for this system.

What can I say? I'm helpful.

Quote:


> Yeah, but the English language is very bad when it comes to such words, which is why I'm glad to have been born on the Balkans. Out here, curses aren't just curses, they are a way of life. We invent more curses yearly than we have words in the dictionary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And giving away MacBooks in college... seeing how many colleges there are in US and how hot those those things get, there's no wonder we have problems with global warming. Save the planet, stop using MacBooks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, welding is easy, provided that you know how a welder works. You adjust the right amperage for the material, pick the right electrode for the job and go at it. And I don't like dremels, I got one but I only ever used it for engraving things, when it comes to removing jaggies on metal I prefer a file, does the job much faster if you pick the right one. Aluminum is pretty easy to shape, cut and sand down to whatever you want, it's also pretty bendy. It's not as soft as gold but it ain't as hard as steel, it's easy to shape. Just don't weld it with anything other than a CO2 welder, that thing burns faster than a MacBook on the summer sun in Sahara.
> 
> Oops, I tend to forget that not everyone knows this stuff, sorry about that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, five cells should be at ~21V (~4.2V per cell) under full charge and around ~12V (~2.4V per cell) discharged. Cells are generally either 3.6 or 3.7V nominal and 4.1 or 4.2V real charge. You know the serial/parallel connections which is pretty good, I've seen electricians that don't know which is which. And lithium cells don't explode just like that, a lithium cell needs a ~60% overcurrent for catastrophic failure which can be achieved either by overcharging without current limitation or causing a short circuit. That or overheating it to insane levels.
> 
> Separating the battery from the machine while charging is smart, a constant state of charge/discharge can build up heat in the cells, causing cells to overheat and rupture, effectively killing the cell and knocking a pack out.
> 
> Wait, why is selling lithium cells illegal? Out here I can go and order a whole shipping container of those without a problem. And yeah, assuming I'm correct, five packs with a total capacity of 25Ah would be capable of giving a total in excess of 8h life time under full load, more than one whole day of web browsing (~10W average) or about two days of idle time (~5W average). I use those batteries for pretty much anything nowadays, they are dirt cheap (two rechargeable 2Ah AAA batteries from a local store would cost me more) and three of those have enough capacity to make a bike turn on.
> 
> Well, with 10 packs you sure won't suffer from lack of battery power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And assuming a half or third of power, yeah, estimated time is about 16-24h of use.
> 
> As far as I understand, Kabini has pretty much everything except VRMs integrated into the unit, so the only reason to actually move away from the socket is if there is DDR4/GDDR5M support added or if AMD actually pulls a Haswell and integrates VRMs onto the unit itself, so the board would basically become a simple carrier to power the unit. And I think I saw that AMD will be adding IVRs on the CPU soon, meaning even VRMs will be integrated, so the actual need for a new socket is non-existent other than for newer standards that utilize different physical connectors. With the low price and having a safe upgrade path, it's a decent platform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's being sold out in the entire country, I look mainly in the Links store chain but even the online sites are showing shortages. Just the one local store here sold over 400 units, and the city consists of ~80,000 people (~500,000 during summer). Then again, it doesn't surprise me, it's a decent performing low power unit for a casual user with integrated graphics good enough for general use and it costs very little compared to an FM2/1150 setup with similar features. Compared to US prices, this thing is pretty expensive (~$82 for Athlon 5350, $50 for the motherboard) but compared to our local prices, it's dirt cheap.


Keep it classy.









Temperature != heat. One terajoule can heat a milliliter of water several million degrees, but a thousand times that energy put into the oceans would do next to nothing.

Dremels are nice for rough work, but something like a file is better for precision work. What thickness would you recommend? 0.02" sheets are easily available, and adding some braces inside shouldn't be too difficult. Making it look pretty isn't a priority, but I might as well if the option is available.

Lol, don't worry. I have never seen LiPos claim to hit 2.4V discharged. Isn't ~3.5V more typical? Series vs parallel fortunately is not rocket science, and having taken AP chemistry, why they behave as they do (adding current vs adding voltage) makes sense.

60% overcharge to burst? That sounds difficult to achieve by mistake. Something to watch out for though. There is circuitry that can bypass the battery while the battery is charging, right? Something that works like a UPS where is can seamlessly switch over to battery power when needed but bypasses it otherwise is what I have in mind.

No, not lithium cells in general, just rechargeable. You can sell a 3.7V AA, you can sell a 1.5V AA, and you can sell any number of those in a rechargeable battery pack, but you can't sell rechargeable AAs alone. Why? I have no idea. I'm just going to go with "politicians are idiots and lobbyists are corrupt," an option that is rarely unsafe. I have seen people in the U.S. get rechargeable cells, but I've always thought importing lithium batteries is a bit sketchy.

Holy crap... A potential solid day of use and probably the better part of a week in sleep mode. This would need to be recharged as often as a phone and could run under load much longer. I can feel smugly superior, even to people saying that the MacBook Air's battery is awesome. I imagine the following would happen:
"Oh, 24 hours, not bad."
"No, I said 14 hours."
"Heh. That sucks. My laptop gets 24 hours."
Then they'd probably bring up something about form-factor, and I don't think I can hope to win that argument.









I want GDDR5M for Carrizo first. Even then, all they need to do is make it backwards compatible. Like, I've heard that some CPUs on AM2+ can be used on even an AM3+ motherboard. I think some sockets have both DDR2 and DDR3 motherboards available since the CPUs can support both. If VRMs get integrated, then suddenly the motherboard becomes a huge I/O board and, yes, a power delivery system.

Nice. I guess it's something for system builders who can't afford something higher-end, even as relatively cheap as AMD FX or a Pentium on B85, or for somebody who wants to get into computers but doesn't want to spend several hundred bucks on it, or is extremely popular for those new-fangled HTPCs people have been talking about.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Hmm, these keyboard batteries just refuse to die! Alrighty then... *cracks knuckles* Round 3...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Yup, this sure is a spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Hmm... It's Memorial Day and I should be studying for exams. Do I want to do that, or do I want to type a lengthy reply?
> 
> 
> 
> We are the OCN. Lower your books and start typing. Resistance is futile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Yeah... Yeah, it is. I'm not sure if my current laptop's GPU or CPU is the bottleneck, but rendering chunks is a pain. The render distance is set to the minimum. I never thought I would say this, but Minecraft for the 360 might be a better experience. But if you want to see a strain on the CPU, then check out Creeper Worlds 1 and 2. They're written in Adobe Air. If there are enough packets (used to build things or charge weapons and use A* for pathfinding) on the screen at once, or enough Drones being rendered in 2, then the game drops from 30FPS to like 10-15FPS. Since rendering a frame also includes all the calculations, the game itself slows down, so suddenly one second of game time takes two in real time. 3 is much better - it's made in Unity - but the maps are much bigger and animating air units especially can slow the game to a crawl. I can assure you that the GPU isn't an issue, and my 6300 can drop down to 8-12FPS on absolutely massive maps. Good to know regarding IDE. That would be a stupidly frustrating issue, especially since Windows only boots on IDE if installed on IDE and, since I've learned my lesson, I'm going to be sure to install on AHCI to begin with. I'm not sure if I will overclock though, but I want an ASUS board so the option is there.
> 
> Skyrim is an exception to the rule. If somebody is debating between Intel and AMD and somebody pulls up Starcraft or Skyrim benchmarks to say AMD is terrible, then they lose all credibility in my mind unless those two games specifically mentioned. x87 and singlethreaded with lots of units to render obviously make Intel a more favorable option, and I'm willing to accept that a low-power tablet APU won't be able to handle this well. I doubt Bay Trail would be much better, and I'm not sure how, for example, downclocked Haswell or Kaveri would perform. I'll stick with the stock iGPU, perhaps overclocked if the ASUS boards allow that separate from the CPU, and upgrade if I need to. Sorry, want to. "Need" makes things boring. If I needed a portable computer, then I'd just buy a laptop like normal people.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are eight core Bay Trail systems out there, but they're pricey, they're soldered, their base clocks are surely locked, and they're intended for servers anyway. And after reading what you said more closely, I realized I just restated everything you said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do they fit a fan in there and expect it to do anything? And I dare you to take your 8320 up to 5GHz with an AM1 cooler. See how quickly it melts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't actually do this...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Slow motion games, reminds me of setting iFPSClamp in Skyrim to 180. Kinda liked it though, chopping people's heads off in slow motion is awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I didn't know Windows boots off IDE once installed on IDE, which kinda explains why I couldn't get my old Windows installation running when I upgraded to Core 2 Duo from an old 939 platform. Not sure why it happens though, could be that Windows loads kernel drivers through registry settings, blacklisting the AHCI driver for boot partition. Kinda stupid though, automatic load and detect like Linux has would be much better.
> 
> And yeah, once guys start throwing around Skyrim and Starcraft in "Intel vs AMD" threads it becomes crap. Aside from the fact that Skyrim's Gamebryo engine utilizes x87 code AMD disabled on Bulldozer/Piledriver, the game itself is coded so bad I'm surprised it even runs. I've seen so many scripting errors and useless things while modding it that the whole game starts looking like it's held together with duct tape (ghetto Skyrim). One script was even set to run in an infinite loop, taking up CPU cycles for no reason. I understand Starcraft though, it's a strategy game where things can't run parallel and must be executed serially, it's not the kind of game capable of utilizing multithreading and demands strong cores.
> 
> Downclocked Kaveri would perform pretty bad in games like those, Kaveri is as fast as Kabini clock-for-clock since it's architectural advances bring ~10% compared to Piledriver but just like Piledriver it loses ~15% total performance due to scaling compared to traditional cores, and PD is ~10% slower than Kabini, so yeah, they are pretty equal. Haswell would be able to handle those games better, but Haswell has issues of it's own. You know how guys complain about Intel CPUs running hot? That's in a tower case, in an SFF with severely limited airflow compared to a tower it becomes a MacBook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Speaking of MacBooks, the only reason they have a fan is so the CPU doesn't throttle, but the CPU runs at close to 100C under load and idles at around 50C. Normal laptops are either designed to be cool and quiet but slow, quiet and relatively fast but warm, cool and high-performance but loud or hot and high-performance but relatively quiet, MacBook is quiet, fast and hot as the depths of hell. And in conditions like summer here on the Mediterranean (think 35C, in the shade), you're looking at close to 75C on idle, hence why a lot of tourists who use their MacBook on the beach instead of an air conditioned hotel room end up in the Apple repair center going "AAAHHH IT BURNS!!!".
> 
> By the way, I might try and see if the Kabini cooler can keep an undervolted stock 8320 without turbo cool enough to run normally. I highly doubt it, but my Vishera will gladly try it in the name of science.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> No, I do not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got into hardware and upgrading stuff around Christmas 2012. I joined here almost a year ago because I decided to upgrade my laptop's 500GB HDD and ODD to a 250GB SSD and 1TB HDD, respectively, and needed some assistance to make sure I didn't break anything. Then the Xbone got announced, and all the crap that happened in the aftermath watered the seed in my brain that was already there (because Steam sales, among other things), telling me to build a gaming rig. I'm happy that I got into computers during this fairly idiot-proof time, if looking at legacy plugs and expansion cards has taught me anything.
> 
> Sounds about right. The PicoPSU I'm looking at is 120W with a variable input voltage. a 70W TDP 7750 + 25W TDP APU + maybe 10W of other stuff (two Samsung SSDs should peak at 2W, and I'm sure RAM and fans are under 8W) gives a bit of headroom. Kaveri is an option, but power would become an issue. If I were to go that route, then a 7850k with a ~3GHz CPU and ~1GHz GPU with 2133MHz RAM would be pushing it. If I'm going to be running a dGPU, then either a Haswell i3 or downclocked, unlocked i5 (why doesn't Intel unlock all chips for downclocking by default? It's not like you can overclock by cutting _down_ the multiplier) and a 750Ti would be the way to go. This is either going to be low-end or relatively high-end, nothing in-between. Since I have my rig for gaming, I'm leaning towards low-end.
> 
> Hey, I was gaming on my laptop's 4250 until I built my rig, and before that, my dad's Vista machine with a 3250. Get on my level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fermi? Goodness, no! Wikipedia is my friend. I'm going to assume that avoiding anything 40nm or with a chipset beginning with "GF" is a good idea. I made sure to look for the 384 shader 630s, since those are Kepler, while earlier revisions are not. They are no different than 640s other than the type of RAM used, same with 650s which are literally the same thing, other than clockspeeds, as 640s. GSync isn't going to be used unless I can find a cheap enough laptop screen that runs it, and PhysX won't be missed in the three games that use it. Again, this is approaching the high-end end of the spectrum, and I also have a server I want to finish up, which means a WD Black for a parity drive, a couple 1TB or 2TB HDDs, and an unRAID license with more drives to be added when the need arises.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, back in the day the high-end graphics cards couldn't exceed the TDP of about 100W due to temperature problems, coolers back in the day didn't have vapor chambers or heatpipes like they do nowadays since those types of coolers began appearing about the same time Pentium 4 came out. The old GPU cooler were, plain and simple, solid aluminum with a copper GPU base. Or aluminum strips put onto a solid aluminum plate with a press. They very much resemble today's HTPC card coolers, both in size and looks.
> 
> And yeah, you're lucky you got in recently, back in the day assembling PCs was like trying to connect four cable TV boxes at the same time. SATA can plug in only one way but some of the old IDE cables didn't have any markings as to how do they connect, you could flip them around and spend whole day troubleshooting why doesn't your optical drive work. Some people think it was hell, but it really wasn't that bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And don't push the Pico PSU to the limit, those things aren't very trustworthy and a 70W graphics card can pull over 70W on peak, as well as how a 25W CPU can pull over 25W peak, although the GPU is a much bigger concern. I'd say a safe constant for a Pico PSU is 80% of the rating like it is for any PSU, I'd advise against pushing higher, especially not above 90%. If you're thinking about pairing a dGPU with Kabini, something like a GTX 750 would be the highest power GPU I'd connect to a system running off a Pico PSU.
> 
> Just so you know, I was playing games on a Radeon 4350 since 2007 up to last year. I'm already at your level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking up if it's a Fermi GPU is smart, Fermi is the reason people used to make jokes about nVidia cards running hot, nVidia got burned (pun intended) by releasing Fermi in it's 400 series iteration. The 500 series is an improvement over the egg fryer 480 which ran as how as a reference 290X, but it's still a power hog. Kepler is the first iteration of GeForce cards that brought in major power consumption improvements, as well as an improved reference cooler comapred to the one held together with wood screws (nVidia, the way it's meant to be screwed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), which ended all the hot jokes. Not to mention Kepler is faster than Fermi by quite a bit.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> And since it's impossible to get any sort of aftermarket cooler for the socket, irreversibly modifying the cooler is NOT on my to-do list.
> 
> Using it for intake might be difficult, but an intake vent on top and a shroud over the cooler should work well. Heck, I'm not sure I'd even need a shroud if an exhaust vent with a small fan (maybe the stock one?) is pulling air through the rear. Modding them to run on 5V is simple and will eliminate any noise and minimize power consumption.
> 
> Good job, I think! Selling them makes you a professional scavenger. You should update your resume now that you know this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No aftermarket coolers? When using zip ties, there are plenty of aftermarket coolers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, intake fan on the rear could work, but I'd still put up a shroud, a piece of cardboard wrapped in duct tape would do just fine. Back when my fan died on an old Freezer 11 I wrapped it in packaging tape and made a shroud between it and the rear fan using the said tape, it actually worked better than the original fan. Shroud serves to direct the airflow towards a certain component, in this case a cooler, without it much of the airflow is lost. Then again, it's not like this thing needs high-end cooling or something, so even a simple fan without a shroud might work. Requires experimenting to check.
> 
> Professional scavenger? Yeah, that would sound mighty fine on my resume - Werne, electromechanical engineer and professional scavenger. You know, that actually does sound awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That's a lot of paragraphs... Alright, here goes:
> 
> I know, right? That, and claiming to have had intercourse with the project's mother, or requesting a deity of choice to send the project to a less-than-desirable afterlife are also good words to use. And no, colleges don't require you to buy MacBooks or iPads. They give them to you free. The tuition, for some strange reason, increases by the price of one of these computers when these sorts of programs are implemented. I wonder why...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh boy, welding! Something I have never done before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fortunately this is just a glorified box, so it's not like anything too bad can happen, right? *knocks on wood* I have my trusty Dremel for removing jagged anything. I'm not sure how metallic a metal aluminium is though. It's considered a poor metal, as with any metal in the P-block of the periodic table (i.e. has a full D shell), and is almost but not quite a metalloid. More metallic metals, like the alkali metals, are extremely soft and malleable. Solid aluminium? I have no idea. Of course, I'm also overthinking this, so you can probably disregard that last paragraph.
> 
> I DON'T KNOW WHAT THESE WORDS ARE! ...Okay, I'm not _that_ ignorant of electronics, but I have never really worked with them. I'm leaning towards a number of 5 LiPo cells in series. At a full charge of ~4.2V each to a discharged ~3.6V each, they remain within the PicoPSU's 19V-25V range (or maybe it's 12V-25V, but it should remain on the higher end). Then I'd take a bunch of sets of those, probably five given how cheap 9-cell laptop batteries can get, and wire them in parallel. This also means that if I screw up the circuitry, I suddenly have a firebomb because lithium does not play nicely with oxygen or water and 25 cells is a lot of lithium. Like, I'm pretty sure I won't be allowed to take this on an airplane.
> 
> Yeah, overcharging is a bad thing. I also want to get a watchmacallit that bypasses the batteries when the computer is plugged in, so the power brick charges the battery and powers the computer totally separate from each other. Otherwise, I fear that the battery will be in a constant state of charging and discharging, and that is a bad thing.
> 
> Yup, five cells in series. I've talked some of this over with Artikbot, and I don't want to mention him or he'll have to read through like three and a half walls of text at this point.
> 
> Problem with that is that they're located in China. Apparently, selling rechargeable lithium cells is illegal in the U.S., and I don't want to have a bunch of LiPo cells seized by customs. That seems a bit sketchy. HOWEVER, those cells look SO GOOD. Five sets in parallel gives a potential 25Ah, so assuming your math is correct, that give 500 minutes or over *eight hours* of battery life!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, goodness... I'll take ten sets of these things! Best $70 ever spent. Even then, you're assuming 30W full load. Realistically, it'll be drawing half or a third of that most of the time. which means 0.6 or 0.7 days of battery life can be expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I've considered getting the quad-core Sempron for now and waiting (have I said this already?) to see what Puma brings. I find it unlikely that Puma will be on a new socket, since it seem like, say, Sandy to Ivy or Haswell to Broadwell, where no new socket is really needed. Since it's a SoC, everything is integrated on the die, including the southbridge. What would possibly require a new socket? Maybe more SATA ports or more USB ports? Even then, that would be easily solved by disabling those ports electrically when they don't exist physically. I dunno. It's cheap enough that a full system upgrade wouldn't be a huge deal.
> 
> Damn. That's not bad, especially for a low-end product in an already niche market. How big a city do you live in, or is this online? (Also, see the last sentence of the previous paragraph
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, but the English language is very bad when it comes to such words, which is why I'm glad to have been born on the Balkans. Out here, curses aren't just curses, they are a way of life. We invent more curses yearly than we have words in the dictionary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And giving away MacBooks in college... seeing how many colleges there are in US and how hot those those things get, there's no wonder we have problems with global warming. Save the planet, stop using MacBooks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, welding is easy, provided that you know how a welder works. You adjust the right amperage for the material, pick the right electrode for the job and go at it. And I don't like dremels, I got one but I only ever used it for engraving things, when it comes to removing jaggies on metal I prefer a file, does the job much faster if you pick the right one. Aluminum is pretty easy to shape, cut and sand down to whatever you want, it's also pretty bendy. It's not as soft as gold but it ain't as hard as steel, it's easy to shape. Just don't weld it with anything other than a CO2 welder, that thing burns faster than a MacBook on the summer sun in Sahara.
> 
> Oops, I tend to forget that not everyone knows this stuff, sorry about that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, five cells should be at ~21V (~4.2V per cell) under full charge and around ~12V (~2.4V per cell) discharged. Cells are generally either 3.6 or 3.7V nominal and 4.1 or 4.2V real charge. You know the serial/parallel connections which is pretty good, I've seen electricians that don't know which is which. And lithium cells don't explode just like that, a lithium cell needs a ~60% overcurrent for catastrophic failure which can be achieved either by overcharging without current limitation or causing a short circuit. That or overheating it to insane levels.
> 
> Separating the battery from the machine while charging is smart, a constant state of charge/discharge can build up heat in the cells, causing cells to overheat and rupture, effectively killing the cell and knocking a pack out.
> 
> Wait, why is selling lithium cells illegal? Out here I can go and order a whole shipping container of those without a problem. And yeah, assuming I'm correct, five packs with a total capacity of 25Ah would be capable of giving a total in excess of 8h life time under full load, more than one whole day of web browsing (~10W average) or about two days of idle time (~5W average). I use those batteries for pretty much anything nowadays, they are dirt cheap (two rechargeable 2Ah AAA batteries from a local store would cost me more) and three of those have enough capacity to make a bike turn on.
> 
> Well, with 10 packs you sure won't suffer from lack of battery power.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And assuming a half or third of power, yeah, estimated time is about 16-24h of use.
> 
> As far as I understand, Kabini has pretty much everything except VRMs integrated into the unit, so the only reason to actually move away from the socket is if there is DDR4/GDDR5M support added or if AMD actually pulls a Haswell and integrates VRMs onto the unit itself, so the board would basically become a simple carrier to power the unit. And I think I saw that AMD will be adding IVRs on the CPU soon, meaning even VRMs will be integrated, so the actual need for a new socket is non-existent other than for newer standards that utilize different physical connectors. With the low price and having a safe upgrade path, it's a decent platform.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's being sold out in the entire country, I look mainly in the Links store chain but even the online sites are showing shortages. Just the one local store here sold over 400 units, and the city consists of ~80,000 people (~500,000 during summer). Then again, it doesn't surprise me, it's a decent performing low power unit for a casual user with integrated graphics good enough for general use and it costs very little compared to an FM2/1150 setup with similar features. Compared to US prices, this thing is pretty expensive (~$82 for Athlon 5350, $50 for the motherboard) but compared to our local prices, it's dirt cheap.
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> These last conversations make me want to go back to 10 posts per page. 100 posts are just to long and my mouses fast scrolling mode does not help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, why not do it the old fashioned way from a time before scroll wheels? Get a firm grip on that scroll bar and pull as hard as you can, then just keep going till you pull through.
> 
> Oh, and don't forget to yell "HEY HO!" while pulling, it makes the whole thing much more amusing for whoever is in the room with you.
Click to expand...

lol


----------



## Unfortunately

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> @CynicalUnicorn In a spoiler since it's a pretty big wall of text.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, VIA Nano runs Crysis as well as my old Core 2 Duo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I never did understand the guys yapping about wanting a power efficient CPU in a machine running two graphics cards that draw well over 500W, especially when everything in that machine will be overclocked. When i comes to machines built solely for performance, you don't ask what components fit in a certain power envelope, you ask how big of a PSU you need for the most powerful components you can afford and be on your merry way. 30-40W more in a machine that will draw over 500W anyway is nothing, it's peanuts.
> 
> I can understand it in industry, where those machines run 0-24 and where power efficiency and performance/watt does matter more than sheer performance. But in a gaming machine, that's ridiculous unless it's an SFF system where you can't cram a big cooler, for a full-blown desktop built for performance you get the best you can afford, no matter the power consumption.
> 
> The advances on the low-power front bring advances to the high-end front as well, which is very good since more performance can be crammed into the same thermal/power envelope. But for some reason, ever since 754 hit the market the trend of lower-power desktop units has become more pronounced. I'd bet my left leg that if AMD were to release a 125W unit that outperforms Intel CPUs for less money, people would still buy Intel cause it uses less power. Enthusiasts would buy the fastest, but others would likely buy whatever uses less power, which just doesn't make any sense to me what so ever.
> Ouch, Minecraft is VERY CPU intensive, you'd be looking at around 60FPS on an overclocked i7, Java just doesn't play nicely with CPUs. Hopefully, it might get compiled with HSA in mind, I think I've seen an AMD roadmap showing Kabini as HSA-capable but after Kaveri got released with claims like "first with HSA" I'm not sure anymore. Indie games, a lot of them will run just fine, others might need a bit of overclocking on the CPU side. Oh, and if you intend to overclock, you need to set the drives to IDE mode to get past 105MHz on BCLK using AM1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it comes to putting a dGPU on a stock 5350, a 7750 would be a good choice, I tried dropping my 8320 to one core per CU and 2GHz to run some games and my 7770 is bottlenecked in some titles like Skyrim where you get around 30ish FPS and Starcraft II where you get a total mess in multiplayer. But games like Fallout 3 and New Vegas surprised me since they are quite playable, FO3 ran at 60FPS most of the time and that's with over 150 mods and ultra settings (Rivet City dropped to some 35FPS), same for NV but with 90ish mods, some places drop but it's nothing unplayable. For an overclocked 5350 in the 2.5-2.6GHz range, I'd say a 7770 would be a good match. For office work and web browsing, you won't have any problems.
> 
> As for Bay Trail, it's a decent low-power setup but it doesn't bring much over Kabini. A bit stronger single-threaded performance but gets obliterated in multi-threading and you'll pay the same for a dual-core system as you would for a 5350 and an AM1 board. Problem with Bay Trail is that aside from the fact that overclocking is impossible, the CPU is a BGA meaning it's soldered onto the board, you'd have to swap the entire system and pay through the nose for a new CPU+board combo instead of just swapping the CPU, you upgrade it like you do a Mac - throw it out the window and buy a new one. Plus, I don't even look at cheaper Intel units since Sandy, stock clocks make my butt itch and scratching my rear while using the PC is not something I consider acceptable.
> 
> Also, MacBook Air does have a fan, but it's practically useless since it's tiny and slow in order to be quiet. Feels like strapping an AM1 cooler set to quiet on an FX 9590 and expecting it to run cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, people often completely disregard GPU coolers as viable for CPUs but I mounted several in places where an aftermarket cooler is not an option. I remember an old machine built into a case so tiny I could barely even work in it, and a new cooler was needed. I zip-tied a modified cooler off an old 256MB DDR3 high-end Radeon on it and it ran like a dream. Speaking of which, remember old high-end AGP cards? Coolers on those looked like coolers on HTPC cards nowadays.
> 
> For Athlon 5350, a 7750 would be a nice match, even a stock 5350 has potential for an entry level gaming PC, overclocked it actually becomes decent. I'll still have to wait on overclocking mine, AM1 parts around here practically fly off the shelves so I can't find a mobo. And if you intend to be using Kaveri in this thing, I'd wait for the A8-7600 to hit the shelves, current FM2+ parts are crap compared to that thing. I'm not sure which GPUs can Kaveri crossfire with, I think a 7750 is possible to be CF'd with a Kaveri iGPU. Hmm, I'll have to look into that.
> 
> By the way, don't think about using 5350's iGPU for any kind of smooth gaming, it's basically a 5450 built on GCN and a 5450 is, well, crap. I played games on a 5450 and I don't recommend it.
> 
> And that GT 630 seems pretty good for the price, though I'd personally step up to a 640 with GDDR5 and cut the iGPU out of the equation. A 640 is about as fast as a 7750, slightly faster than a Kaveri iGPU unless you're willing to pay more for high-speed dual-channel RAM than the rest of the build (also overclock that RAM as far as it'll go) and costs roughly the same as a 7750, not to mention it has all the nVidia goodies like PhysX and GSync. Just make sure it ain't a re-branded Fermi, you want Kepler, lower power draw and heat emission.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, to be honest, a PC ain't effective until there's zip ties and duct tape. And yeah, cutting down the cooler does seem like not so great of an idea, you'd practically be losing over 50% of the surface area and while these things run cool, I'm honestly not sure what would happen in a SFF system with most of the cooler missing.
> 
> And that blower, I'd kill for one of those things. If you intend to use that thing for intake, I'd put it in the build to draw air from beneath and make a shroud for it to exhaust over the CPU heatsink and out of the case. That way fresh air would get into the system and be blown directly over the CPU heatsink, completely removing the need for an active cooler on Kabini while allowing for the stock heatsink to be kept, something like Kaveri would still need an active cooler though. Stock fan on an AM1 heatsink doesn't have that much airflow, I can barely even feel the breeze 15cm away from it while it runs on full blast, so that blower may actually work. Don't take my word for it, I'm just thinking out loud, it's something that would require experimenting to find out.
> 
> Oh, and I have about 20 dead PS2 Slims in my magic box, seven of them have integrated 45W 7.5V PSUs I ripped out and experiment with to get 12V output for a Pico PSU using a 1:2 ratio transformer from an Enhance PSU, an ATX PSU PWM module from that very same Enhance and a voltage limiter, and I have 13 PS2s with bricks, that's why I mentioned a PS2 blower. I also have eight that work which I fixed with parts from those dead ones. I live close to a Sony repair center and when they throw these away, I take them home, fix the ones I can and sell them, sell off the pieces I don't need as well. I got more PlayStation parts than a Sony factory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, if there are no F-bombs while working on something, you're doing it wrong. And you guys have computer requirements in college? Apple stuff as a requirement? You guys are either all rich or your college seems to think so, if a professor were to set a Mac as a requirement here, he'd get bludgeoned to death by his students with actively used 10 year old laptops and machines running P4s.
> 
> Sheet metal is simple to work with - use metal cutters to cut it (do not use a saw, you'll just wreck it), use rivets to connect parts and if it needs welding, do it with a CO2 welder (Mig Mag) or you'll just burn a hole right through it. Low amps with a 1-1.5mm welding electrode would work with an arc welder but you'd need to pick at it carefully instead of welding in a straight line. For cutting a hole in the middle of it rather than edge, I generally use a table mounted grinder I rigged on a piece of old pipe or a ghetto drill press and then get rid of the jagged edges with a file. Sadly, anti-aliasing won't fix jagged edges when you cut metal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lithium ion charging circuit shouldn't be too hard to make, you'd need to make a voltage control circuit which should be pretty simple to do with a transistor and a resistor, as well as throw in a another resistor for current control, maybe even a capacitor for cleaner DC output. Circuit design depends on exact battery capacity (mAh) and total cell pack voltage so some tweaking would be necessary if you find a schematic, shouldn't be hard to make since it's pretty simple, it's elementary school style circuitry. For example, a 12V 1Ah battery pack should be charged with a 14.2V 100mA (1.37W) charger, current needs to be 1/10th of the battery capacity and voltage needs to be ~10-15% higher than battery pack voltage in order to charge it optimally. That applies to car batteries, should be the same or similar for lithium ion, do check the ratios for Li-ion.
> 
> And current remains the same with a current control resistor so once battery's internal resistance increases as voltages start to equalize, it won't be overcharged, that's why controlling the current is very important in battery chargers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you have to take something into consideration - there's a reason why laptop batteries are all 14V and higher. Once the pack starts dropping to about 11V, s*** happens, whole thing starts turning into an overall mess. I'd advise a higher voltage pack in the range of 16-19V, dropped down to a constant 12V output with another circuit, that way you won't have to suffer from headaches due to hard drives shutting down or errors once CPU/GPU start running out of volts.
> 
> I generally use these batteries for making stuff, they are cheap and have lots of capacity (5000mAh, aka 5Ah), that kind of capacity would be minimum I'd use. Assuming the entire system draws 30W under full load on 12V, that's 2.5A of current draw, meaning that a full 5x3.7V (18.5V nominal, 20V real) 5Ah battery pack with a 12V voltage limiter would keep it running full speed ahead an estimated ~1h40m before voltage begins dropping under 12V (once batteries hit 2.4V per cell, which is damn near empty), a few minutes more or less due to variation.
> 
> You know, once I put those batteries into an old HP laptop which could idle for 3h on a brand new stock battery, the end result was a 9h movie marathon on battery power and it was still running for another hour after I left it alone. It was charging for nearly five hours though, and for comparison, stock battery would be full within an hour.
> 
> And to be honest, I have no idea what AMD plans to do with Puma, AMD is all over the place with Mullins but their lips are tight when it comes to Beema. Only reason I'm going with a 5350 is cause I got it as compensation, I built a low-cost machine for a guy and he couldn't pay for my work so he gave me that CPU instead, he bought it for another machine which got scrapped. If it weren't for that, I'd still be waiting to see if/when Beema will come to AM1.
> 
> Personally, I think the socket is too popular to discontinue (at least around here, over 400 CPUs and motherboards sold out in less than two weeks) and the emphasis is on upgrading, which means they can't abandon it or the whole concept is dead. But then I remember 754 and it's life cycle which was practically non existent, so yeah, not sure. Either way, if you can find a cheap used dual-core AM1 Semiporn and board to serve as placeholder, it would be a no-brainer, the platform is cheap even new and used it costs as much as a bag of peanuts.


Wait time out, Skyrim on the AM1 chips at 30fps?? Paired with a single 7770 or 7750? Am i understanding that implication correctly?


----------



## Werne

Well, I licked a light post last night. It's one of those curvy at the top light posts still wrapped in christmas decorations that light up at night and it looked like a giant candy cane to me. Damn, I should really stop drinking so much.









Now I don't even know why I mentioned it. Anyway...


Spoiler: I think my keyboard hates me :D



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Yeah, it's a bit annoying for the levels that aren't exactly difficult but just require holding the line and thinning out the enemy to advance. Plus, there's an option to advance it frame-by-frame and an option to run at half speed anyway.
> 
> Yup. Very dumb. It can be changed, but it's overly complicated.
> 
> Oh, wow. They didn't just implement x87 poorly, they didn't implement it at all. That explains a lot. How exactly has Skyrim, given how poorly it runs, become such a popular game to mod? I guess the same can be said for GTA IV.
> 
> Intel, as in Ivy and Haswell, run hot, but they produce less heat than anything AMD. Crappy thermal paste = crappy heat transfer = more energy locked up in the die = more temperature, since temperature is just average kinetic energy. A bucket of ice has more thermal energy than a cup of boiling water, but the cup of boiling water has a 35% higher temperature or so. We'll need to wait and see how Haswell Refresh handles. I predict it will be worse than delidded Haswell but far better than stock Haswell. Piledriver is 10% slower than Kabini? Yeah, that's about right given the benchmarks. I guess your 2GHz 8320 you mentioned would be better than the 1.6GHz Athlon but slower than the 2GHz Athlon?
> 
> Form over function or function over form. Pick one. I like minimalist aluminium as much as the next guy, but can we at least make it not painful to touch?
> 
> You're nuts!


Well, you can always drop the CPU to a quad-core and rev up the clocks as high as they can go, I did so once to my 8320, once core per module scales as well as an i5 and at 4.9GHz it actually becomes a very decent unit, in line with stock higher-end Sandy Bridge i5s. Of course, a 6300 can only do two modules instead of four true cores (~15% penalty for module scaling) but moar jiggahertz ought to do better in poorly threaded titles than a hexa-core.









And that's why I don't use Windows, each and every machine I have (including my mother's laptop and my brother's machine) is running either Debian (various desktop environments) or one of it's most direct forks (Crunchbang, LMDE, etc), depends on the needs. Without installing proprietary graphics drivers (using Linux's open-source radeon), I just need to swap the hard drive and keep on chugging, don't even need to adjust anything, just install firmware if needed. Windows is nothing but necessary evil in my opinion, good for games and running benchmarks but a liability otherwise.

Nah, AMD implemented x87 instructions onto Bulldozer and Piledriver (not sure about Steamroller) but they are disabled. On Piledriver they can be easily enabled using Bulldozer Conditioner but on Bulldozer they are locked and may or may not be enabled depending on the unit batch.

Skyrim is popuar cause "4K texturez uber graphicz" crowd is like a plague in this game, the whole game is dull compared to Oblivion and Morrowind and the only guys actually playing it are those who care about nothing but graphics and screenshots. Go ahead and log in to Skyrim Nexus, if you find one image that doesn't have ENBs and 4K textures in the image section in the past year (yes, year), or find no retextures/ENBs/mesh improvements/naked women in the hot files, I'll gladly buy you a beer and pay $50 for shipping it to you.

Debatable. Intel measures die temperature and Intel peaks out at 105C where there's thermal shutdown, throttling at 95C. AMD tops out at 95C, AMD's 65C TCase (estimated IHS surface temperature) is 95C on the die, except on laptop CPUs that measure things a bit different, hence why TCMax on FX units is 61.1C. At 90C on the die Haswell runs at ~73C TCase, AMD experiences a thermal shutdown at 70C TCase if everything is by the book and safety measure aren't disabled on the board, otherwise anywhere from 75-90C (board safety feature). With a hot die, the CPU's PCB runs at a higher temperature, heating up the socket and increasing overall temperature. AMD does the same through insane power draw.

AMD CPUs cannot run hotter than Intel CPUs because they experience a thermal shutdown before they even reach Intel's peak TCase temperature. The things that do run hot are the Northbridge (old production process, running at twice the frequency of Intel's NB, higher voltages) and the VRMs (due to an obvious reason, high stress on the power delivery system), even southbridge tends to run warm when there's high I/O activity. The entire board runs a whole magnitude hotter than Intel boards, especially the ones with integrated low-end Radeon graphics (those can give you some nasty burns, I touched one







). Hence why AMD systems run hotter.

When it comes to Apple, form is everything, functions are for those who buy real machines anyway. Since Apple machines are designed for nothing other than boosting e-peen and dem hipsters, form is everything, an ugly notebook doesn't boost e-peen much. And seeing as how Apple is going for as thin as possible, just wait till they pull off a razor-thin netbook. Then not only will you burn yourself, you could also cut yourself on it, and use it as a shaving razor. MacBook Gillette! Just imagine the copyright infringement lawsuits apple would start with that one against the shaving product companies.









My psychiatrist prefers "mentally unstable".








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> From what I've seen, coolers really advanced several years ago and then stagnated. Noctua spent years and millions (probably) developing a successor to their flagship and got something negligibly better. $80 for a single Kelvin lower temperature? No. No thank you. Solid metal blocks aren't ineffective for their purposes though as long as they have airflow. 150W is pushing it if my 99C XFX 7850 (while mining and during the winter) is indicative of anything.
> 
> The only plugs that aren't idiot-proof are 8-pin CPU and PCIe plugs, but those are usually labeled, and USB 2.0 and Firewire headers, but the latter is pretty uncommon and useless. SATA having the L-shaped "key" is a very nice development, and having fewer cables and plugs that can suffer from bent pins is nice as well.
> 
> Yeah, that sounds about right. 100W max then. I could always run this off a Kill-a-Watt or my UPS (which has a power monitor built in as long as the software is installed`) if it's borderline too much. I just want a 150W variable voltage input PicoPSU. A bunch more options become available.
> 
> Ah, well, in that case... When a more than one layer of AA breaks games five years older than my laptop, there is a problem. The worst part is that your GPU has twice the shaders as mine, and you probably had it clocked higher, so I can still be smug about this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's still bad, just not as bad.
> 
> Yeah... References 480s being louder than 290Xs? Hilarious! However, Hawaii is pretty close to Kepler clock-for-clock in terms of power consumption. Stock Kepler is just slower than stock Hawaii is all. What I find really scary about the direction Nvidia has gone is how much they've done in such a short time. A 750Ti is about as fast as a 480. A 750i uses a quarter the energy of a 480. I'll decide on a GPU once we learn more about Maxwell and the 800 series.


Well, air cooler stagnated cause there is no need for them to improve, with AIOs hitting the market and being a suitable replacement for air coolers with their price and cooling power, they have no reason to advance. Even the Noctua PR admitted that Noctua works on an AIO cooler as well, which means they don't even need to advance in this matter. I'm sticking with air though, water is too much fuss and at least i can hear if my fan dies by the lack of noise, but if an impeller craps out the only thing I'll hear is BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP *thermal shutdown*.

Solid block coolers tend to peak out at 150W on GPUs and 95W on CPUs. Problem is that GPUs have even more heat per mm^2 than CPUs, hence why GPU heatsinks tend to include heatpipes at around 80-120W and after that begin vapor chambers and heatpipes. XFX is different, since my 7770 incorporates a "Ghost cooling system" (likely the same damn thing as your 7850) which is a circular aluminum heatsink that keeps it aat ~62C under load (it's overclocked to 1085/1550), doesn't even have a copper core like C2D coolers. Now that I think about it, mounting a C2D cooler would likely both bring my temps down as well as make the bloody thing quieter. Hmm, I shall try.

Not necessarily, I've seen guys struggling to plug in 6-pins and 4-pins into CPU 8-pin connectors, as well as connecting the F_AUDIO headers to F_PANEL headers, despite the usage for the headers being written both on them and the board. Some people just can't be helped. And you know those metal locks on SATA cables that you have to press in order to release the connector? I've seen a guy ripping off the entire SATA section clean off the board cause he thought it needs to be pulled "just a little harder", didn't even think about pressing the bloody thing.

Yeah, these Pico PSUs can take about as much as a cheapo PSU, meaning 80% constant load must be the worst thing that can happen to it, and peaks should be kept under 90% PSU rating. It's a nice thing for small systems since it's tiny but if that small system draws enough power to hit it's max rating, game over pretty soon.

Well, my 4350 was much faster than 4250 (will be explained), but it didn't have a very happy life, some very nasty things were done to it. I found it in the garbage, took it home, tried it and it worked, worked pretty hot though and it had a passive heatsink. So I changed thermal paste which made it run relatively cool. And then I volt-modded it and ran it overclocked through VBIOS for 6 years at 900/725... on a passive heatsink. Funny thing is, it survived all that and at those clocks it worked very good, I sold it last year and it still runs without a problem on the guy's PC. Tte old 4000 series were bloody resilient.

They weren't louder, they were as hot though, normal operating temperatures for a GTX 480 were in the 90s and reference cooler was keeping it at around 100-105C. Hawaii runs hot because no one expected a tiny die, Hawaii XT packs roughly the same number of transistors as GK110 but in 2/3 the size of a GK110 die with the transistor density roughly the same as Maxwell, heat generated per mm^2 is at insane levels and reference/aftermarket coolers mounted on those things early on were terrible since they were designed for ~33% larger GPUs, contact sucked which is why heat transfer sucked.

And to be honest, 750 Ti is nothing too innovative when it comes to GPUs performance-wise, it uses little power but to be honest, the performance jump is the same at 450 Ti > 550 Ti > 650 Ti with the same level of power drops. Nvidia just likes to bring hype like they did with the Titan Z and their Tegra yelling "uber performance" and in case s*** happens like it did with 295X2 and the Tegra flop (ARM got ahead by the time they were done with Tegra), they put their tail between their legs and keep quiet.

Speaking of which, did you by any chance notice how nVidia started hyping Maxwell like crazy and now all of a sudden things are quiet? My guess is that something either went wrong with Maxwell's features (remember AMD's Steamroller and a sudden calm before a half-disabled CPU came out), or they figured out AMD is not going to just sit and scratch their behind while they prance about with their 750 Ti. Not sure which though, but if we see a card with wood screws being shown, we'll know what's going on.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Technically yes, but I don't want to break the only officially supported cooler.
> 
> If a cooler works well passive, then just a little airflow should slash temperatures. If I can get a small current flowing through the radiator, then everything should work. I'm assuming that, as long as there is an intake and an exhaust nearby, no shroud will be needed for this system.
> 
> What can I say? I'm helpful.


Got a point there. And according to AMD, there are three official coolers being shipped with Kabini, one is CoolerMaster, one is Foxconn (the one I have and what every review demonstrated) and AVC which makes the standard AMD boxed coolers. I'm yet to see the other two though, but they are there in AMD's slides:


As I said, it might work perfectly fine by just putting an intake+exhaust fans close to the heatsink, I'm just the kinda guy that prefers to make a machine as ghetto as possible, mostly cause I like to make that stuff and partially cause it makes things work better.

Indeed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Keep it classy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temperature != heat. One terajoule can heat a milliliter of water several million degrees, but a thousand times that energy put into the oceans would do next to nothing.
> 
> Dremels are nice for rough work, but something like a file is better for precision work. What thickness would you recommend? 0.02" sheets are easily available, and adding some braces inside shouldn't be too difficult. Making it look pretty isn't a priority, but I might as well if the option is available.
> 
> Lol, don't worry. I have never seen LiPos claim to hit 2.4V discharged. Isn't ~3.5V more typical? Series vs parallel fortunately is not rocket science, and having taken AP chemistry, why they behave as they do (adding current vs adding voltage) makes sense.
> 
> 60% overcharge to burst? That sounds difficult to achieve by mistake. Something to watch out for though. There is circuitry that can bypass the battery while the battery is charging, right? Something that works like a UPS where is can seamlessly switch over to battery power when needed but bypasses it otherwise is what I have in mind.
> 
> No, not lithium cells in general, just rechargeable. You can sell a 3.7V AA, you can sell a 1.5V AA, and you can sell any number of those in a rechargeable battery pack, but you can't sell rechargeable AAs alone. Why? I have no idea. I'm just going to go with "politicians are idiots and lobbyists are corrupt," an option that is rarely unsafe. I have seen people in the U.S. get rechargeable cells, but I've always thought importing lithium batteries is a bit sketchy.
> 
> Holy crap... A potential solid day of use and probably the better part of a week in sleep mode. This would need to be recharged as often as a phone and could run under load much longer. I can feel smugly superior, even to people saying that the MacBook Air's battery is awesome. I imagine the following would happen:
> "Oh, 24 hours, not bad."
> "No, I said 14 hours."
> "Heh. That sucks. My laptop gets 24 hours."
> Then they'd probably bring up something about form-factor, and I don't think I can hope to win that argument.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want GDDR5M for Carrizo first. Even then, all they need to do is make it backwards compatible. Like, I've heard that some CPUs on AM2+ can be used on even an AM3+ motherboard. I think some sockets have both DDR2 and DDR3 motherboards available since the CPUs can support both. If VRMs get integrated, then suddenly the motherboard becomes a huge I/O board and, yes, a power delivery system.
> 
> Nice. I guess it's something for system builders who can't afford something higher-end, even as relatively cheap as AMD FX or a Pentium on B85, or for somebody who wants to get into computers but doesn't want to spend several hundred bucks on it, or is extremely popular for those new-fangled HTPCs people have been talking about.


I would, but I'm not much of a classy guy.









I know, I was just making a joke, no need to get scientific. And I agree, we should put those MacBooks into the ocean.







Who knows, maybe they'll float so Apple can market them as deluxe personal flotation devices for rich people.

A file is good for doing things fast and for doing precise work, depending on file used. I have a 1.2m long file for rough works, those small locksmith files that are designed for very fine work, and pretty much any other file in between. I use a dremel for engraving things since practically no other tool has that kind of RPM and precision, except a grinder but that thing is too big and bulky for precision work like engravings.

2.4V is generally regarded as fully discharged, 4.2V is fully charged, lithium batteries generally operate in the 4.2-3.4V range below which their voltage starts dropping down fast. And parallel vs serial is something our electricians don't seem to understand, since that guy who fixed my water heater connected the thermostat in parallel and blew up the fuse. Now I don't even call the repair guy when that stuff is under warranty, I fix it myself.

Nope, 60% overcurrent, overcharging implies pushing the cell beyond 100% and it would blow way before even hitting 100%. See, current increases exponentially as the cell is being charged, with the rise of potential in the cell also rises it's voltage which increases it's internal resistance against the incoming electrons. The closer the charger voltage is to the cell voltage, the higher that resistance is, and the higher the resistance the higher the current required by the cell (higher resistance = higher required wattage = more current since voltage can't increase).

The closer those two potentials are to each other, the resistance increases much faster as result, and once the cell reaches the charger voltage, charger sends a massive amount of current through the cell, starting a catastrophic failure inside the cell (massive overheating within moments), resulting in a physical destruction of the cell (leakage on acid-based cells like an old car battery, explosion on lithium based cells due to exposure to oxygen).

That's why I mentioned that controlling current is important in chargers, a short circuit or sudden high overcurrent on a Li-ion cell, especially ones that have a high current rating, is often enough to cause a cell rupture within a few seconds and a cell meltdown within a second. Be careful when playing with those things.









Hell, put 10 packs in there and you can do 100% usage for nearly two days and idle for a week. And the form factor is much better, if you make it well enough you can even have enough space to carry a beer inside.









I doubt Carizzo will come with GDDR5M, but anything is possible, AMD already has a GDDR5 memory controller (as proven by PS4 and pretty much every single AMD graphics card) and it wouldn't be hard to implement it, but it would be hard to convince memory manufacturers to produce GDDR5M modules for prices that fit a product in the price range APUs cover. And yeah, AM2/AM2+ processors work with AM3/AM3+, and some AM3 processors work with AM2+ motherboards after a BIOS upgrade (if available). AMD's sockets are designed to be relatively upgradeable for a longer time than Intel sockets (Intel is already killing off their 8x line of 1150 and switching to 9x line for Devil's Canyon and Broadwell), but that wasn't true for 754 and 939 while it was for AM2/AM3 and FM1/FM2. I think integrated VRMs should be released with Carizzo, so I guess we'll see how well that works out by the end of the year.









Actually, Kabini is bought as an upgrade for aging Pentium 4 systems which are like the plague here, they are everywhere. Also for offices, small businesses, corporations, HTPCs, machines for grandmas/mothers, etc. With XP being killed off which is a reason for an upgrade and a low-cost machine solution like Kabini released shortly after, these things are flying off the shelves faster than condoms on a friday evening. I know a guy who owns a local store since we went to school together, so I ordered a motherboard from him, should be here by thursday afternoon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unfortunately*
> 
> Wait time out, Skyrim on the AM1 chips at 30fps?? Paired with a single 7770 or 7750? Am i understanding that implication correctly?


It's actually Skyrim on ultra with FXAA instead of MSAA and a 2GHz FX 8320 set to 4M/4C coupled with a 1085/1550MHz 7770. FX 8320 at 2GHz and 4M/4C is ~3.5% faster than a stock 5350, which is negligible since you can bump the multi by .5 on Kabini without voltage adjustments on most board, and that difference becomes a margin of error.

Set to 4M/4C at 2GHz it runs 50-60FPS in the wilderness with a drop to 25-30FPS in Whiterun, 20-25FPS in Riften and 20FPS in Markarth, combat in forts is around 35-40FPS with magic and all that stuff. Do note that these results are with mods like Inconsequential NPCs, More NPCs and Populated Cities, among many others, so a drop in cities should be less on vanilla Skyrim and with more modest settings like medium. Also, I play on 1440x900 so at 1080p the game will be GPU bottlenecked in the open and CPU bottlenecked in cities.

It's a bit slower than my old Core 2 Duo E4500 on stock, Kabini is as fast as Conroe clock-for-clock so overclock an Athlon 5350 to some 2.6-2.8Ghz and you got yourself a decent little machine going up against stock mid-range Core 2 Quad models with 1/3 the power consumption (people still play games fine on those old C2Qs). So yeah, Kabini should be perfectly capable of running Skyrim on playable framerates even on stock, as long as you use settings more suitable for that poor thing like medium and tweak SkyrimPrefs.ini.

Well, that, or you can overclock and play even smoother on higher settings, which is much better in my opinion.


----------



## Jhereg10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *denman*
> 
> I don't think it's that ghetto (I'm actually very proud of it!), but I fit my main rig (400R) into an old HP Pavilion so I could do some modifying to my 400R. Here's a link to my build log and here is the exact post:


Gotta say, I'm loving that HP mod. I also have a 400R and am doing an early 00s Beigemod (see sig) at the moment (though not trying to fit one into the other), so I feel your pain. ;-)


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Studying? What's that? Well, after 11:40 tomorrow morning, my life becomes nothing but PlanetSide 2 for the next three months.


Spoiler: Join the clicky master race and you won't want to stop typing! :P



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Well, I licked a light post last night. It's one of those curvy at the top light posts still wrapped in christmas decorations that light up at night and it looked like a giant candy cane to me. Damn, I should really stop drinking so much.


I _think_ I should judge you for this.

Quote:


> Well, you can always drop the CPU to a quad-core and rev up the clocks as high as they can go, I did so once to my 8320, once core per module scales as well as an i5 and at 4.9GHz it actually becomes a very decent unit, in line with stock higher-end Sandy Bridge i5s. Of course, a 6300 can only do two modules instead of four true cores (~15% penalty for module scaling) but moar jiggahertz ought to do better in poorly threaded titles than a hexa-core.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's why I don't use Windows, each and every machine I have (including my mother's laptop and my brother's machine) is running either Debian (various desktop environments) or one of it's most direct forks (Crunchbang, LMDE, etc), depends on the needs. Without installing proprietary graphics drivers (using Linux's open-source radeon), I just need to swap the hard drive and keep on chugging, don't even need to adjust anything, just install firmware if needed. Windows is nothing but necessary evil in my opinion, good for games and running benchmarks but a liability otherwise.
> 
> Nah, AMD implemented x87 instructions onto Bulldozer and Piledriver (not sure about Steamroller) but they are disabled. On Piledriver they can be easily enabled using Bulldozer Conditioner but on Bulldozer they are locked and may or may not be enabled depending on the unit batch.
> 
> Skyrim is popuar cause "4K texturez uber graphicz" crowd is like a plague in this game, the whole game is dull compared to Oblivion and Morrowind and the only guys actually playing it are those who care about nothing but graphics and screenshots. Go ahead and log in to Skyrim Nexus, if you find one image that doesn't have ENBs and 4K textures in the image section in the past year (yes, year), or find no retextures/ENBs/mesh improvements/naked women in the hot files, I'll gladly buy you a beer and pay $50 for shipping it to you.
> 
> Debatable. Intel measures die temperature and Intel peaks out at 105C where there's thermal shutdown, throttling at 95C. AMD tops out at 95C, AMD's 65C TCase (estimated IHS surface temperature) is 95C on the die, except on laptop CPUs that measure things a bit different, hence why TCMax on FX units is 61.1C. At 90C on the die Haswell runs at ~73C TCase, AMD experiences a thermal shutdown at 70C TCase if everything is by the book and safety measure aren't disabled on the board, otherwise anywhere from 75-90C (board safety feature). With a hot die, the CPU's PCB runs at a higher temperature, heating up the socket and increasing overall temperature. AMD does the same through insane power draw.
> 
> AMD CPUs cannot run hotter than Intel CPUs because they experience a thermal shutdown before they even reach Intel's peak TCase temperature. The things that do run hot are the Northbridge (old production process, running at twice the frequency of Intel's NB, higher voltages) and the VRMs (due to an obvious reason, high stress on the power delivery system), even southbridge tends to run warm when there's high I/O activity. The entire board runs a whole magnitude hotter than Intel boards, especially the ones with integrated low-end Radeon graphics (those can give you some nasty burns, I touched one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Hence why AMD systems run hotter.
> 
> When it comes to Apple, form is everything, functions are for those who buy real machines anyway. Since Apple machines are designed for nothing other than boosting e-peen and dem hipsters, form is everything, an ugly notebook doesn't boost e-peen much. And seeing as how Apple is going for as thin as possible, just wait till they pull off a razor-thin netbook. Then not only will you burn yourself, you could also cut yourself on it, and use it as a shaving razor. MacBook Gillette! Just imagine the copyright infringement lawsuits apple would start with that one against the shaving product companies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My psychiatrist prefers "mentally unstable".


Man, and I wanted to keep this reply short.







Alright, here goes:

This is true. Can I not run it as a tri-core and turn up the jiggahertz to ~5 or so? Obviously I can't do "true" quad core, but tri should work, as should an emulation of a 4300 or a 2300 (if it existed).

Yup. 'Tis why I am happy about all of these new engines supporting Mantle. Not because #AMDMasterRace or anything like that, but because it's an open API that will let games run on Linux.

So for all intents and purposes x87 don't really exist. And yeah, it's all about dem HD screenshots. I'll probably pick up Skyrim next Steam Sale, but I doubt I'll sink hundreds of hours into it.

I might just be unclear, but I'll just drop this because I'm too lazy to argue.

62C core temp is Piledriver's maximum last I checked, and Intel chips can regularly get up to 80C or more. Not Sandy because solder is good. Interesting that it isn't just the cores that contribute.

The trashcan Mac Pro is actually a pretty good value. The problem is that they tried to cram so much stuff into such a little case and it constantly throttles under relatively light loads. It's supposed to be portable, but the G5 had those nice carrying handles and could fit internal, not just external, drive and whatnot. And I'm pretty sure Gillette already has a patent on every razor except single-blade. Two, three, five, seven, 9001...










Quote:


> Well, air cooler stagnated cause there is no need for them to improve, with AIOs hitting the market and being a suitable replacement for air coolers with their price and cooling power, they have no reason to advance. Even the Noctua PR admitted that Noctua works on an AIO cooler as well, which means they don't even need to advance in this matter. I'm sticking with air though, water is too much fuss and at least i can hear if my fan dies by the lack of noise, but if an impeller craps out the only thing I'll hear is BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP *thermal shutdown*.
> 
> Solid block coolers tend to peak out at 150W on GPUs and 95W on CPUs. Problem is that GPUs have even more heat per mm^2 than CPUs, hence why GPU heatsinks tend to include heatpipes at around 80-120W and after that begin vapor chambers and heatpipes. XFX is different, since my 7770 incorporates a "Ghost cooling system" (likely the same damn thing as your 7850) which is a circular aluminum heatsink that keeps it aat ~62C under load (it's overclocked to 1085/1550), doesn't even have a copper core like C2D coolers. Now that I think about it, mounting a C2D cooler would likely both bring my temps down as well as make the bloody thing quieter. Hmm, I shall try.
> 
> Not necessarily, I've seen guys struggling to plug in 6-pins and 4-pins into CPU 8-pin connectors, as well as connecting the F_AUDIO headers to F_PANEL headers, despite the usage for the headers being written both on them and the board. Some people just can't be helped. And you know those metal locks on SATA cables that you have to press in order to release the connector? I've seen a guy ripping off the entire SATA section clean off the board cause he thought it needs to be pulled "just a little harder", didn't even think about pressing the bloody thing.
> 
> Yeah, these Pico PSUs can take about as much as a cheapo PSU, meaning 80% constant load must be the worst thing that can happen to it, and peaks should be kept under 90% PSU rating. It's a nice thing for small systems since it's tiny but if that small system draws enough power to hit it's max rating, game over pretty soon.
> 
> Well, my 4350 was much faster than 4250 (will be explained), but it didn't have a very happy life, some very nasty things were done to it. I found it in the garbage, took it home, tried it and it worked, worked pretty hot though and it had a passive heatsink. So I changed thermal paste which made it run relatively cool. And then I volt-modded it and ran it overclocked through VBIOS for 6 years at 900/725... on a passive heatsink. Funny thing is, it survived all that and at those clocks it worked very good, I sold it last year and it still runs without a problem on the guy's PC. Tte old 4000 series were bloody resilient.
> 
> They weren't louder, they were as hot though, normal operating temperatures for a GTX 480 were in the 90s and reference cooler was keeping it at around 100-105C. Hawaii runs hot because no one expected a tiny die, Hawaii XT packs roughly the same number of transistors as GK110 but in 2/3 the size of a GK110 die with the transistor density roughly the same as Maxwell, heat generated per mm^2 is at insane levels and reference/aftermarket coolers mounted on those things early on were terrible since they were designed for ~33% larger GPUs, contact sucked which is why heat transfer sucked.
> 
> And to be honest, 750 Ti is nothing too innovative when it comes to GPUs performance-wise, it uses little power but to be honest, the performance jump is the same at 450 Ti > 550 Ti > 650 Ti with the same level of power drops. Nvidia just likes to bring hype like they did with the Titan Z and their Tegra yelling "uber performance" and in case s*** happens like it did with 295X2 and the Tegra flop (ARM got ahead by the time they were done with Tegra), they put their tail between their legs and keep quiet.
> 
> Speaking of which, did you by any chance notice how nVidia started hyping Maxwell like crazy and now all of a sudden things are quiet? My guess is that something either went wrong with Maxwell's features (remember AMD's Steamroller and a sudden calm before a half-disabled CPU came out), or they figured out AMD is not going to just sit and scratch their behind while they prance about with their 750 Ti. Not sure which though, but if we see a card with wood screws being shown, we'll know what's going on.


This is the danger of an air leak:



This is the danger of a water leak:



Yup, Ghost Cooling. A round block with some curved fins sticking out on the sides and an adorable 40mm fan. Fortunately, your 7770 is probably pulling under 120W under a full load, I'd assume closer to 100W. The numbers are coming out of my butt as I don't want to bother finding power consumption numbers.

I suppose, but there's the one pin missing on front audio that's slightly different than the one that's missing on the switches and LEDs. I dunno, you have to try to mess that up. Doing that to a SATA cable isn't a huge deal as long as only the cable is damaged. They're cheap!







Overall, it's much more idiot-proof, but I don't think it's possible to make anything idiot-"proof," just resistant.

Only cheapo?







Can we petition SeaSonic to make their own? That's why I want to have the battery pack (and it might not be a bad idea to integrate the power brick either and just plug in the cable when needed) in a FlexATX form-factor case. If I do go with a mobile gaming rig, then I can ditch the battery for a real PSU and switch out the system.

I swear reference 480s ran as loud as 290Xs. I can find the source if I decide to not be lazy. Didn't Hawaii run a modified Tahiti cooler reference? And of course, Nvidia has some sexy coolers for their high-end cards (GK110 and 690 come to mind).

Yeah, I suppose so, but having a low-end/mid-range GPU tie the flagship from three generations ago in performance and obliterate it in efficiency is always amazing to me. It's a very tangible demonstration of how quickly this tech moves. I have no idea what's going on with Maxwell. We've had a few leaks that are almost certainly fake, but nothing official about the 800 series. Maybe we'll get some information around E3?

Quote:


> Got a point there. And according to AMD, there are three official coolers being shipped with Kabini, one is CoolerMaster, one is Foxconn (the one I have and what every review demonstrated) and AVC which makes the standard AMD boxed coolers. I'm yet to see the other two though, but they are there in AMD's slides:
> 
> As I said, it might work perfectly fine by just putting an intake+exhaust fans close to the heatsink, I'm just the kinda guy that prefers to make a machine as ghetto as possible, mostly cause I like to make that stuff and partially cause it makes things work better.


Really? Three? I'm sure they're all going to be the same, or at least close to it. This is supposed to be low-end, and aluminium is significantly cheaper than copper. It's not like copper is even needed for 25W of heat unless you want the tiniest possible cooler.

Then there comes a point of diminishing returns, and it's not like it would even make a huge difference for this. As long as it stays under 60C or so, I'll be happy, and I'll probably end up changing that target later.

Quote:


> I know, I was just making a joke, no need to get scientific. And I agree, we should put those MacBooks into the ocean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who knows, maybe they'll float so Apple can market them as deluxe personal flotation devices for rich people.
> 
> A file is good for doing things fast and for doing precise work, depending on file used. I have a 1.2m long file for rough works, those small locksmith files that are designed for very fine work, and pretty much any other file in between. I use a dremel for engraving things since practically no other tool has that kind of RPM and precision, except a grinder but that thing is too big and bulky for precision work like engravings.
> 
> 2.4V is generally regarded as fully discharged, 4.2V is fully charged, lithium batteries generally operate in the 4.2-3.4V range below which their voltage starts dropping down fast. And parallel vs serial is something our electricians don't seem to understand, since that guy who fixed my water heater connected the thermostat in parallel and blew up the fuse. Now I don't even call the repair guy when that stuff is under warranty, I fix it myself.
> 
> Nope, 60% overcurrent, overcharging implies pushing the cell beyond 100% and it would blow way before even hitting 100%. See, current increases exponentially as the cell is being charged, with the rise of potential in the cell also rises it's voltage which increases it's internal resistance against the incoming electrons. The closer the charger voltage is to the cell voltage, the higher that resistance is, and the higher the resistance the higher the current required by the cell (higher resistance = higher required wattage = more current since voltage can't increase).
> 
> The closer those two potentials are to each other, the resistance increases much faster as result, and once the cell reaches the charger voltage, charger sends a massive amount of current through the cell, starting a catastrophic failure inside the cell (massive overheating within moments), resulting in a physical destruction of the cell (leakage on acid-based cells like an old car battery, explosion on lithium based cells due to exposure to oxygen).
> 
> That's why I mentioned that controlling current is important in chargers, a short circuit or sudden high overcurrent on a Li-ion cell, especially ones that have a high current rating, is often enough to cause a cell rupture within a few seconds and a cell meltdown within a second. Be careful when playing with those things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hell, put 10 packs in there and you can do 100% usage for nearly two days and idle for a week. And the form factor is much better, if you make it well enough you can even have enough space to carry a beer inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt Carizzo will come with GDDR5M, but anything is possible, AMD already has a GDDR5 memory controller (as proven by PS4 and pretty much every single AMD graphics card) and it wouldn't be hard to implement it, but it would be hard to convince memory manufacturers to produce GDDR5M modules for prices that fit a product in the price range APUs cover. And yeah, AM2/AM2+ processors work with AM3/AM3+, and some AM3 processors work with AM2+ motherboards after a BIOS upgrade (if available). AMD's sockets are designed to be relatively upgradeable for a longer time than Intel sockets (Intel is already killing off their 8x line of 1150 and switching to 9x line for Devil's Canyon and Broadwell), but that wasn't true for 754 and 939 while it was for AM2/AM3 and FM1/FM2. I think integrated VRMs should be released with Carizzo, so I guess we'll see how well that works out by the end of the year.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, Kabini is bought as an upgrade for aging Pentium 4 systems which are like the plague here, they are everywhere. Also for offices, small businesses, corporations, HTPCs, machines for grandmas/mothers, etc. With XP being killed off which is a reason for an upgrade and a low-cost machine solution like Kabini released shortly after, these things are flying off the shelves faster than condoms on a friday evening. I know a guy who owns a local store since we went to school together, so I ordered a motherboard from him, should be here by thursday afternoon.


I must make sure. This is the Internet. SRS BUSINESS. :|

Opinions. Everybody has them. I'll figure something out, probably with a lot of trial and error. I want to make the lid look a bit fancy. I'm thinking a solid layer a metal supporting everything, and a faceplate with the AMD Radeon logo cut out. It would be inappropriate for Maxwell, but oh well.







I mostly want it to look fancy enough that it's obvious that I'm not carrying a bomb. A metal case would probably set off alarms for some people. I don't know if it should receive a paintjob or a powder coat. Eh, I'll figure it out.

That's what I thought. I was told that, for a battery indicator, I could get a four-way comparator and a bunch of LEDs. When all are lit up, it (as in each cell) is running at over 4.2V. When one goes out, it's still above 4V. When the second goes out, it's 3.8V. The third, it's above 3.6V. The last, and it's below 3.6V and time to plug in. I'm pretty sure this how things like Game Boys have their battery indicators: green LED normally, red LED after the voltage drops.

Okay. So it's a matter of getting the right number of ohms in front of the batteries in the charging circuit and a heatsink so they don't blow up? I'm not entirely sure what you mean though. Pictures?







I guess that explains why you aren't supposed to recharge alkaline batteries, but it wouldn't surprise if it were possible but also a time bomb.

Gross. Warm beer? Hmm, maybe I could use the waste heat to power a small refrigerator... I need to figure out if that's possible for my rig if the 120F exhaust while BOINCing is anything to go by. I do like having that much battery life. That's ridiculous. If I plugged a charger into my UPS it could probably last a week.

Well, AMD is branding their own DDR3 RAM. Give Micron or Nanya or Samsung enough money, and I'm sure they can get a hold of it. Perhaps have it soldered onto the motherboard, with higher-end chipsets having more. Devil's Canyon and Broadwell are still on LGA-1150, just like Haswell. Same with the 60 series and 70 series chipsets being LGA-1155, just released with Sandy and Ivy, respectively. Can't forget LGA-2011 either. The only reason they're even changing it is for DDR4 support since Haswell-E will not be backwards compatible. Sure, CPUs can't be used across sockets, but the sockets themselves aren't that bad.

Oh, lord... P4s? Yeah, I have four of those. Two 1.7GHz, one 2.4GHz, and one 3GHz with Hyperthreading. I'm not even sure which one works, but I'm pretty sure a single Kabini core should be comparable (two for the HT chip) and use well under half the P4s' power for all four cores combined. I especially like that, with a VESA-compatible monitor and a proper case, you can grab that ASRock board with the 19V plug and integrate it so the entire computer works off one plug, like a makeshift (and far less crappy) AIO.



EDIT: I got bored. Anyway, THIS is the AM1 parts list for reference. I made THIS FM2+ system because procrastination. And no, I'm not going to use six DIMMs in this, just two.

A 7850k system, stock, can pull about 115W under a full CPU and GPU load. I figure that I can cut this down to 80W or less at 3-3.3GHz or so. The laptop flagship Kaveri chip has the same number of cores, GPU and CPU, but is 35W TDP. Power consumption is fine, but I might get just 8 hours, not 16, of battery.

Amazon lists that cooler as 1.6" high, which means I can most likely cut some vents in the top for intake and have a rear fan for exhaust. Alternatively, I can mount the motherboard upside-down, i.e. to the "roof" of the case and access it via panels on the bottom. Granted, this would cost like $170 more, but I'm willing to pay for it because it would be a much better system.


----------



## animal0307

Ok guys... This train has been of the tracks for quite some time now and while I love the info and discussion you are bringing up this is not the thread for it. You are more than welcome to start a new one but please try to keep this thread on track.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

That's mod code for : Get a room you two.


----------



## cinnamonrollz

+cynicalunicorn fyi, reports say am1 runs better with 1 dimm as it is single channel Ive yet to get an am1 cpu. I am however commited with a motherboard and some ram.


----------



## Unfortunately

MUST GET BACK ON TOPIC! HERE'S A CONTENDER FOR WORLD'S CRUDEST CASE MOD!
(repost though, best i could do.)
AND HERE'S VRM COOLERS MADE OUT OF AN OLD NORTBRIDGE HEATSINK HACKSAWED INTO PIECES!


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ok guys... This train has been of the tracks for quite some time now and while I love the info and discussion you are bringing up this is not the thread for it. You are more than welcome to start a new one but please try to keep this thread on track.


But... But... The machine we were talking about IS a ghetto product.









Ah well, guess I'll have to post ghetto rigging stuff instead, but I have to use old stuff since my AM1 board isn't here yet and I have no new ghetto cause of that.

So... about a year ago I made a HDD mounting system out of this thing:

A flat inner tire from a trolley, and don't laugh cause I'm 100% serious, also don't laugh at my bad pics. I ran the trolley over a piece of glass when I was moving a fridge from my friend's house and the tire got punctured, so I thought I might as well put it to good use. And the other thing I used is zip-ties, no ghetto builder should ever build anything without zip-ties.

I cut the tire into strips, like this:

It's a HDD suspension system, same as what Antec uses in Solo for suspending hard drives but ghetto'd with a tire, different kind of material but it works the same. It's the very first thing that popped into mind when I took the tire off so I kept the tire, some other things popped into mind too but I still didn't make those, I'm waiting on my AM1 board and then I'll deploy those ideas. Bicycle tire works too, I got it on my main machine's HDD.









Once I used some zip-ties to hold those strips in place and stretch them over the 5.25" bay, I got the finished product:


View of mounted drives from the front:

Everything went from an idea to a finished product in 15 minutes, it's very simple and easy to do. Thank god I remembered to take pics.









And remember kids, always use quality rubber when putting your hard drive into the bay. You don't want to make the same mistake my father did 22 years ago when he was putting his hard drive into the bay and the rubber broke so me popped out nine months later. Maybe that's why I have these crazy ideas, my smarts got stuck when I was filtered through cheap Chinese rubber, not that I'm complaining.









But seriously, if that mount breaks the hard drive will hit something when it drops and if the PC is working, you get carvings on the platter and lose your data. Not a good thing unless the goal is to wreck the hard drive so if making something like this, use quality materials for suspension. And make sure it grips the HDD tightly so it doesn't slide if you're moving the machine often.

Anyway, as a result of my ghetto rigging, this thing went from three hard drives making so much noise that using it felt like sitting next to a woodchipper with a jet engine strapped to it, to three hard drives that are inaudible and pretty quiet when seeking too (no wood grinding sounds), case didn't vibrate anymore either. I used the same mounting system in my main PC but with a bicycle tire, got the same dual-platter Hitachi as the top drive in that thing mounted the same way in the 5.25" bay and it went from loud as hell on idle and insufferable when seeking to barely audible when seeking and completely inaudible otherwise.

Personally, I think it's a great way to mount a hard drive, I very much recommend it if you want to get rid of the grinding sounds those hard drives make. And FYI, it works like a dream in crappy cases, as well as quality cases.


----------



## RnRollie

good one








the best thing, that inner tube rubber lasts for years , decades even if you don't expose it to direct sunlight.
just store the pieces you dont use it the dark and use a little talcum powder to prevent the rubber sticking to itself


----------



## Werne

Already done, it's in my garage cabinet at stable 16C ambient with baby powder all over it.









I use old tires to patch other more costly tires (like the one on my bike, not a chance in hell I'd give $120 for a tire) so it needs to remain in good condition.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ok guys... This train has been of the tracks for quite some time now and while I love the info and discussion you are bringing up this is not the thread for it. You are more than welcome to start a new one but please try to keep this thread on track.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That's mod code for : Get a room you two.


Yea im pretty meh about stuff like this but it is kind of overwhelming on this thread for readers..... Good info though you should make a thread for it..... But I totally agree.... Been biting my tung for a few days about this lol









this should be enough Ghetto to get things back on track!


----------



## ThatOneNewGuy

Hey, that PSU isn't ghetto, it's "Righteous"








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> this should be enough Ghetto to get things back on track!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> And remember kids, always use quality rubber when putting your hard drive into the bay. You don't want to make the same mistake my father did 22 years ago when he was putting his hard drive into the bay and the rubber broke so me popped out nine months later. Maybe that's why I have these crazy ideas, my smarts got stuck when I was filtered through cheap Chinese rubber, not that I'm complaining.


----------



## Werne

You can laugh all you want but it's true.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThatOneNewGuy*
> 
> Hey, that PSU isn't ghetto, it's "Righteous"


Lol I think that was the least ghetto aspect of it lol, you can have several nice things but if you jumble them up the right way they look Ghetto lol







FYI PSU still works great and looks Awesome!


----------



## ThatOneNewGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Lol I think that was the least ghetto aspect of it lol, you can have several nice things but if you jumble them up the right way they look Ghetto lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI PSU still works great and looks Awesome!


Can't wait to see your "ghetto" rig cleaned up.


----------



## davcc22

cool and i just fixed 2 pair of good head phones with you guessed it extra tacky hot glue worked a treat as well


----------



## RnRollie

for fixing headphone.. you do know you can "fix" them by glueing them into an old rugby helmet.. ?


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> for fixing headphone.. you do know you can "fix" them by glueing them into an old rugby helmet.. ?






























































































lachen:




















































































lachen:




















































































lachen:




















































































lachen:




















































































lachen:




















































































lachen:


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Lol I think that was the least ghetto aspect of it lol, you can have several nice things but if you jumble them up the right way they look Ghetto lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI PSU still works great and looks Awesome!


Too true! This:



with shorter cables = this ghetto mess:


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That's mod code for : Get a room you two.


Yes, dear.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ok guys... This train has been of the tracks for quite some time now and while I love the info and discussion you are bringing up this is not the thread for it. You are more than welcome to start a new one but please try to keep this thread on track.


But the text itself is only 121KB! Can't you at least allow us to hit 1MB?







Alright, fair enough. Thank you for not deleting all of those posts. I've got a lot to go off of for now.

Anyway, I have no obligations for the next two and a half months, and I'm off to try case modding. I will report back upon success of said mod or total destruction of said case. My goal is to consolidate a bunch of drive bays from a few super old beige cases into something more appropriate for a server.


----------



## Werne

Well, my AM1 board came in yesterday, all tested and working like a dream. I just need to find an old midi tower and pull out my trusty metal cutters to turn it into mITX.

So, to overclock or not to overclock? Now that's a stupid question - overclock, of course!


Linky

Needed 25mV to get to 2.4GHz, and another 90mV to get to 2.5GHz, that means I've hit a voltage wall so I won't be pushing it harder, it peaks at 44.6C overclocked with that flimsy stock aluminum crap on it. Still, a 23% overclock and performance ~5% short of a stock Yorkfield on a unit which is cheaper than a used Yorkfield around here (not to mention tinier, quieter, cooler and much less of a power hog) is pretty damn good if you ask me.









Overclocking APUs is tricky though, it's nothing like the AM2/AM3 platform. BCLK raises CPU-NB, iGPU clocks, CPU clocks, RAM, PCI-E bus, everything, and only two voltages I can tweak on this thing are VCore and VDIMM. All is connected to BCLK so I had to test everything to make sure the machine is stable. A pain in the arse, especially since this RAM sucks.

Still didn't test PCI-E but I don't really mind if it's messing up data on a half-dead hard drive and a half-arsed Windows installation i could care less about. I'll test it though, just need to figure out a way to do it.









And no ghetto pics this time, too lazy to install bluetooth drivers on this thing to transfer pics.







I did screw in a 2.5" hard drive into the 3.5" bay on only one side and tilted it 45 degrees, along with other stuff I ghetto'd, but that will have to wait till I fire up my desktop again (currently using it's monitor, can't find my HDMI cable to use the TV).


----------



## ThatOneNewGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Well, my AM1 board came in yesterday, all tested and working like a dream. I just need to find an old midi tower and pull out my trusty metal cutters to turn it into mITX.
> 
> So, to overclock or not to overclock? Now that's a stupid question - overclock, of course!
> 
> 
> Linky
> 
> Needed 25mV to get to 2.4GHz, and another 90mV to get to 2.5GHz, that means I've hit a voltage wall so I won't be pushing it harder, it peaks at 44.6C overclocked with that flimsy stock aluminum crap on it. Still, a 23% overclock and performance ~5% short of a stock Yorkfield on a unit which is cheaper than a used Yorkfield around here (not to mention tinier, quieter, cooler and much less of a power hog) is pretty damn good if you ask me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overclocking APUs is tricky though, it's nothing like the AM2/AM3 platform. BCLK raises CPU-NB, iGPU clocks, CPU clocks, RAM, PCI-E bus, everything, and only two voltages I can tweak on this thing are VCore and VDIMM. All is connected to BCLK so I had to test everything to make sure the machine is stable. A pain in the arse, especially since this RAM sucks.
> 
> Still didn't test PCI-E but I don't really mind if it's messing up data on a half-dead hard drive and a half-arsed Windows installation i could care less about. I'll test it though, just need to figure out a way to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no ghetto pics this time, too lazy to install bluetooth drivers on this thing to transfer pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did screw in a 2.5" hard drive into the 3.5" bay on only one side and tilted it 45 degrees, along with other stuff I ghetto'd, but that will have to wait till I fire up my desktop again (currently using it's monitor, can't find my HDMI cable to use the TV).


What board did you use? Some people I seen overclock the Athlon couldn't even get another 100mhz out of it.

I'm gunna get one sooner or later.

EDIT: never mind, I clicked on the link. Found it.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThatOneNewGuy*
> 
> What board did you use? Some people I seen overclock the Athlon couldn't even get another 100mhz out of it.


The important thing is dropping SATA from AHCI to IDE mode, otherwise you won't get more than maybe 100-150MHz out of the CPU, regardless of the motherboard. IDE mode impacts sequential writes performance on SSDs and I guess it drops performance on HDDs a bit as well but it allows to break the 105MHz barrier on BCLK.









I could care less about HDD performance though, I have an old Seagate Momentus 5400.2 which is a slow-arse SATA 1.5Gb/s anyway.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> The important thing is dropping SATA from AHCI to IDE mode, otherwise you won't get more than maybe 100-150MHz out of the CPU, regardless of the motherboard. IDE mode impacts sequential writes performance on SSDs and I guess it drops performance on HDDs a bit as well but it allows to break the 105MHz barrier on BCLK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could care less about HDD performance though, I have an old Seagate Momentus 5400.2 which is a slow-arse SATA 1.5Gb/s anyway.


I've used an IDE SSD. I don't think it hurt random speeds too much, but sequential speeds were ~100MB/s slower. Still, it's twice as fast as even a VelociRaptor. IDE and AHCI are, unfortunately, both designed with HDDs in mind. I forget the name, but there is a new mode in the works designed for flash, and presumably RAM, based drives.

So is that overclock stable? How much power is it drawing? And some AM1 boards have unlocked voltage?!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I've used an IDE SSD. I don't think it hurt random speeds too much, but sequential speeds were ~100MB/s slower. Still, it's twice as fast as even a VelociRaptor. IDE and AHCI are, unfortunately, both designed with HDDs in mind. I forget the name, but there is a new mode in the works designed for flash, and presumably RAM, based drives.
> 
> So is that overclock stable? How much power is it drawing? And some AM1 boards have unlocked voltage?!


NVM or something like that.


----------



## animal0307

Ok guys seriously. I get that the machine you are talking about is the one you are ghetto modding but you are straying away from the ghetto mods again. I'm not trying to stop you from posting but requesting you do it in the proper places. If you want you can always start a build log over in the case mod threads and talk about hardware and how you over clock it until yours hearts content but this thread is. Not the proper place for it. Please don't make me ask again or I will be removing the posts to clean up the thread.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ok guys seriously. I get that the machine you are talking about is the one you are ghetto modding but you are straying away from the ghetto mods again. I'm not trying to stop you from posting but requesting you do it in the proper places. If you want you can always start a build log over in the case mod threads and talk about hardware and how you over clock it until yours hearts content but this thread is. Not the proper place for it. Please don't make me ask again or I will be removing the posts to clean up the thread.


Wrong machine.







This one is mine, already built and ghetto modded, but I couldn't post pics before actually ghetto rigging the thing into the case. I don't have a time machine, you know.










A 2.5" HDD screwed in from only one side under a 45 degree angle cause I couldn't be arsed to drill another hole and install it horizontally.










It's kinda hard to see the molex-to-3-pin in that perfect cable management, but the fan attached to it is routed back into the PSU. PSU couldn't start the fan once connected to it's internal header, so I had to improvise.


There's the fan, an 800RPM Scythe GlideStream from my Mugen. And there is no thermal pad on that mosfet heatsink, gone and replaced with Arctic MX-2. Thermal pads on VRMs are too mainstream anyway.

And here's the machine itself:

It's screwed into the case with wood screws since the screw holes are damaged, and I had to break the power LED connector in two since this is an old case, power LED header on the original board had 3 pins. Finally, I sat on the rear I/O shield so I had to beat it into submission shape with a rubber hammer.









There's more ghetto stuff in there but chandelier popped after I took these so I'll have to take the rest tomorrow. By the way, I really wanna see how this board would look in a 900D.









@CynicalUnicorn 30-pass IBT AVX stable, draws ~38W, and nearly every AM1 board has voltage control, some of those really cheap ones don't and some ASRock boards have flimsy VRMs that heat up like crazy so increasing voltage ain't really safe.


----------



## djthrottleboi

so here is my newest mod but its not put on yet as i have to plug my fans in again lol.
before was no cover so i modded this finally.


Spoiler: Warning: Simple mod


----------



## chrisjames61

Now this is ghetto. Local Craigslist offering. Gaming attic style.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> so here is my newest mod but its not put on yet as i have to plug my fans in again lol.
> before was no cover so i modded this finally.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Simple mod


LMAO diggin that Pink zebra print tape covering the RAD fans!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Alright, Project Ashurbanipal, my way-too-fancy name for my NAS build, is back in business. I did some more modding today, and I gotta say, 85+F and 50+% humidity is gross. Also, having a Dremel cut-off wheel shatter and smack you in the hand at 30k RPM isn't fun, but apparently it does not have the force to break skin. Also, HDD prices still suck, but I might need to bite the bullet if I'm going to get this done anytime soon.

I managed to get a second drive cage modified, so now there are three total in the case. I had to remove the speaker, but that's not a big deal. Unfortunately, even though all three cages hold 3x3.5" drives, the top two won't be able to have a drive in the bottom bay since a mounting screw on the side would get in the way. Pretty sure I can get a 2x2.5" tray and cut a wedge to fit the screw for both, and I need to fit a cache SSD anyway. Warranties are optional, right?

Pictures when I get finished. I still need to cut slots to access the screws on the motherboard tray side. Inconvenient, yes, but dat capacity and for the low price of zero dollars (+ electricity







). I've got potentially three cages to add later: the 2x2.5" cage from the HAF 912, the 2x3.5" cage from the Gateway OEM case, and the 3x3.5" cage in the last salvaged systems assuming the retro rig doesn't happen. Case modding is fun and I am far too excited about this.







It's been way too long since I've done any sort of project like this.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> so here is my newest mod but its not put on yet as i have to plug my fans in again lol.
> before was no cover so i modded this finally.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Simple mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LMAO diggin that Pink zebra print tape covering the RAD fans!
Click to expand...

thats for when ladies come over. i strobe my bike light across it and then i tell her to hide in the closet as my fiance walks in with her normal being pregnant complaints.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> LMAO diggin that Pink zebra print tape covering the RAD fans!
> 
> 
> 
> thats for when ladies come over. i strobe my bike light across it and then i tell her to hide in the closet as my fiance walks in with her normal being pregnant complaints.
Click to expand...

Er... what?


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> thats for when ladies come over. i strobe my bike light across it and then i tell her to hide in the closet as my fiance walks in with her normal being pregnant complaints.


???


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> LMAO diggin that Pink zebra print tape covering the RAD fans!
> 
> 
> 
> thats for when ladies come over. i strobe my bike light across it and then i tell her to hide in the closet as my fiance walks in with her normal being pregnant complaints.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Er... what?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> thats for when ladies come over. i strobe my bike light across it and then i tell her to hide in the closet as my fiance walks in with her normal being pregnant complaints.
> 
> 
> 
> ???
Click to expand...

thats the point. ??? as i dont know why i used that tape lol. i just grabbed the first tape i saw and after looking at it i found my other tape but then i was to lazy to take the tape off and put new tape on. though flashing a light on it at nigght gets nice reflections at 300 lumens. also in case you were completely thrown off i have a fiance and we live together and we are expecting twins. both boys. they are due anytime now.


----------



## hartofwave

OK, so in bed phone mount mod.
Attached to the (mediocre) led lamp I have is an 8 socket belkin plug board, affixed with 2 steel guitar strings.
Along the arm I have an elastic strap to stop it bending and sagging at the joints as well as the charge cable for my phone.
At the swivelling joint for the lamp head I have zip tied 2 clips from a broken bike bag rack together to join the phone case and the lamp.
Side note my phone is the Xperia Z2, and the magnetic charge cable I have, very conveniently, can be stuck to the lamp!

If anyone said being lazy in bed was too hard, well no more!


----------



## Insane569

I shall gladly take my crown. Made myself a monitor stand.




link to the second image in OG form http://puu.sh/9cCE3


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Business in the front, party in the back.







Pretty sure that's relevant anyway. But it looks classy from the side you normally view it, and that's what counts!


----------



## nvidiaftw12

That's not very ghetto, that's actually pretty nice.







or







depending on which way you look at it.


----------



## animal0307

classy ghetto mod.


----------



## Insane569

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> That's not very ghetto, that's actually pretty nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> depending on which way you look at it.


haha. It's nice if you don't mind some things outta place.

there's 2 metal angles that stick out at the bottom. They support the monitors. There's also about 1 inch that sticks out on the top left side of the center screen.
link to OG image if you can't see it http://puu.sh/92vZ3


----------



## nvidiaftw12

You could replace the bottom angles with some sculpted wood, and cut the top part off.


----------



## Insane569

Yea I cut off the parts that stuck out on the sides already. I just haven't gotten to taking off the top part, Moving this thing is a pain in the ass. Who woulda thought that 3 monitors with no bezel would be so heavy? I also cut into the angles on the back a bit so I could bend the side monitors in a bit. My monitor on the left has a horrible view angle from the bottom of it. And Nvidia surround doesn't let me rotate 1 monitor when I'm in surround.


----------



## hambone96

This isn't really ghetto, but I don't think it fits anywhere else.

Look what I found at the dump yesterday


It was a prebuilt hp someone upgraded a little. Phenom II X4 975 BE, 8GB ram, 1TB hard drive, 600w power supply, and a GTX 550 ti.

Took apart and washed the 550 ti (it smelled like a garbage truck) and reassembled it, works perfect. Washed the 1TB too, works perfect. Have yet to test the other components.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> works perfect


"You keep using that [phrase]. I do not think it means what you think it means."









Why would somebody trash a perfectly good computer? At least salvage the parts. That's $70 worth of RAM in the current market, $60 worth of HDD, a reasonably powerful GPU for a low-end system or an HTPC, a decent (?) PSU, and a horribly outdated AM3 system running K10.

Is there any data on the HDD? Can you find its original owner and brag about your find?


----------



## twisted5446

Not a bad find there Hambone:thumb: now to see what all still works


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> and a horribly outdated AM3 system running K10.


Hey now, Phenom II X4 975 BE is still a decent CPU if the board allows for overclocking it (any 4-phase board does with a ghetto rigged VRM heatsink). Granted, it's not an i5, but it's pretty damn good, especially for a free CPU.









And now it's time for a very short tutorial on how to properly mount a hard drive - you take it and secure it to the side of the HDD cage with a big rubber band.












Speaking of which, the way CrazyRussianHacker says "rubber band" is just freakin' hilarious.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Man looking at some of these pics makes me wish I still had my first water cooling rig. That thing was ridiculously ghetto. It used a T-line (no reservoir) with a AA battery for fill port plug.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Hey now, Phenom II X4 975 BE is still a decent CPU if the board allows for overclocking it (any 4-phase board does with a ghetto rigged VRM heatsink). Granted, it's not an i5, but it's pretty damn good, especially for a free CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now it's time for a very short tutorial on how to properly mount a hard drive - you take it and secure it to the side of the HDD cage with a big rubber band.


Yeah, but Piledriver clocks higher and performs about the same. I'd certainly take one for $0 though!









I would say that's a good way to cut down on vibrations, but it's touching the metal. You have to suspend it via rubber band to do that. I'm not sure if any issues with harmonics would arise if you had a bunch of similar HDDs suspended like that.







We need to do some science! Needs moar duct tape in any case.


----------



## hambone96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> "You keep using that [phrase]. I do not think it means what you think it means."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would somebody trash a perfectly good computer? At least salvage the parts. That's $70 worth of RAM in the current market, $60 worth of HDD, a reasonably powerful GPU for a low-end system or an HTPC, a decent (?) PSU, and a horribly outdated AM3 system running K10.
> 
> Is there any data on the HDD? Can you find its original owner and brag about your find?


I did find out his name and the college he went to, then I wiped the drive









I think the mobo took a crap or something, and thats why it got thrown out. Maybe bad ram, still haven't checked them. The PSU is bent to hell and some of the wires are clipped, I'll just trash it (again). lol

I'm thinking the CPU is a pretty good find







Up until this, my best dump find was a Phenom X4 9650 with 8GB DDR2 and a gts 9600gt


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> This isn't really ghetto, but I don't think it fits anywhere else.
> 
> Look what I found at the dump yesterday
> 
> 
> It was a prebuilt hp someone upgraded a little. Phenom II X4 975 BE, 8GB ram, 1TB hard drive, 600w power supply, and a GTX 550 ti.
> 
> Took apart and washed the 550 ti (it smelled like a garbage truck) and reassembled it, works perfect. Washed the 1TB too, works perfect. Have yet to test the other components.


Mother of all dumpsterfound's









Well, friend found from somewhere dumbsterplace (he's working there) XFX 7970 and other gfx card's+hdd's+ram's but.. it isn't like dumbster, it more like, ...umm...

but, i'm jealious for you


----------



## naved777




----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Yeah, but Piledriver clocks higher and performs about the same. I'd certainly take one for $0 though!


Hell, I'd take any CPU for $0... and then I'd overclock the crap out of it until it explodes!

Which reminds me, the prices of LN2/DICE pots are too damn high! I can't afford any.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I would say that's a good way to cut down on vibrations, but it's touching the metal. You have to suspend it via rubber band to do that. I'm not sure if any issues with harmonics would arise if you had a bunch of similar HDDs suspended like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need to do some science! Needs moar duct tape in any case.


Not touching the metal, rubber band goes through the central holes on the cage side which are narrower than the drive itself, so the hard drive is actually pressed against the rubber band between the cage and the HDD itself, transferring very little vibration. I'm an engineer, I don't miss details like those.









And I have no idea about harmonics transfers, I was drinking beer in a nearby bar while they taught us that in school. I didn't skip handcrafting and chemistry though, making rocket fuel and blowing stuff up with hydrogen rocks! So does making ghetto-rigged remote controlled cars from wireless door bells on technical education classes, I liked those. Elementary school was awesome, I miss it.

And unfortunately, I can't use any duct tape, I used it all on my neighbor's dog last night.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Not touching the metal, rubber band goes through the central holes on the cage side which are narrower than the drive itself, so the hard drive is actually pressed against the rubber band between the cage and the HDD itself, transferring very little vibration. I'm an engineer, I don't miss details like those.


Good man! The picture didn't make that clear.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> This isn't really ghetto, but I don't think it fits anywhere else.
> 
> Look what I found at the dump yesterday
> 
> 
> It was a prebuilt hp someone upgraded a little. Phenom II X4 975 BE, 8GB ram, 1TB hard drive, 600w power supply, and a GTX 550 ti.
> 
> Took apart and washed the 550 ti (it smelled like a garbage truck) and reassembled it, works perfect. Washed the 1TB too, works perfect. Have yet to test the other components.


Wow a good score.....


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> The PSU is bent to hell and some of the wires are clipped, I'll just trash it (again). lol


Take it apart and try to repair. GS600 is a really nice PSU. Re-solder broken cables etc.

My best trash find was Pentium3(probaly dead ) with a dell mobo + some ram.Not even close to this.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Take it apart and try to repair. GS600 is a really nice PSU. Re-solder broken cables etc.
> 
> My best trash find was Pentium3(probaly dead ) with a dell mobo + some ram.Not even close to this.


Yeah please try to save that psu, those are really well made.


----------



## legoman786

Heh, I found an 80GB drive with no partition on it.

Had some file recovery softwares take a crack at it. Found nothing. Whoever owned it knew how to destroy the data.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Heh, I found an 80GB drive with no partition on it.
> 
> Had some file recovery softwares take a crack at it. Found nothing. Whoever owned it knew how to destroy the data.


Remember kids, hitting delete != deleting data. HDDs might be better about it, but flash drives don't permanently delete data until the space is needed or garbage collection (e.g. TRIM) deletes it. Even then, it isn't instant.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Take it apart and try to repair. GS600 is a really nice PSU. Re-solder broken cables etc.
> 
> My best trash find was Pentium3(probaly dead ) with a dell mobo + some ram.Not even close to this.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah please try to save that psu, those are really well made.
Click to expand...

NO! DO NOT OPEN IT UP! Those things can hold a deadly charge for days. People have died working on them.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Heh, I found an 80GB drive with no partition on it.
> 
> Had some file recovery softwares take a crack at it. Found nothing. Whoever owned it knew how to destroy the data.
> 
> 
> 
> Remember kids, hitting delete != deleting data. HDDs might be better about it, but flash drives don't permanently delete data until the space is needed or garbage collection (e.g. TRIM) deletes it. Even then, it isn't instant.
Click to expand...

It takes more than just hitting delete to securely wipe a drive of any kind. Someone with the right software and knows how to use it can easily retrieve data that has simply been deleted. One has to write 0s, then 1s (or vice versa) at least once to wipe a drive (more is better).


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

No, I know that, but it's the specifics I can't remember. I'll look it up when I get less lazy tomorrow.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> NO! DO NOT OPEN IT UP! Those things can hold a deadly charge for days. People have died working on them.


And pressing the power button a lot DOES NOT HELP. Somebody tried this and posted a thread about it. All I remember is that TwoCables responded, but that doesn't narrow it down at all.







They don't have the "Do not open" label just for warranties.


----------



## hambone96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> NO! DO NOT OPEN IT UP! Those things can hold a deadly charge for days. People have died working on them.


Well, I appreciate the thought, but I have taken apart every power supply that I get from the dump (for the fans) and not even a spark. I also take the copper out of tvs (these are actually deadly).

Do you have proof of anyone dying whilst taking apart a computer power supply?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> NO! DO NOT OPEN IT UP! Those things can hold a deadly charge for days. People have died working on them.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I appreciate the thought, but I have taken apart every power supply that I get from the dump (for the fans) and not even a spark. I also take the copper out of tvs (these are actually deadly).
> 
> Do you have proof of anyone dying whilst taking apart a computer power supply?
Click to expand...

Here's one. It doesn't happen often but that doesn't make them any less dangerous or deadly.


----------



## nepas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> All I remember is that TwoCables responded, but that doesn't narrow it down at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well,that narrows it down to less than 20k threads,should be easy to find


----------



## hambone96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Here's one. It doesn't happen often but that doesn't make them any less dangerous or deadly.


Thanks for the link! I think I'll take my chances still. If you don't grab a hold of everything, you shouldn't have any problems. I do appreciate your concern though.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> No, I know that, but it's the specifics I can't remember. I'll look it up when I get less lazy tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And pressing the power button a lot DOES NOT HELP. Somebody tried this and posted a thread about it. All I remember is that TwoCables responded, but that doesn't narrow it down at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't have the "Do not open" label just for warranties.


Well, not necessarily, if you unplug it, and then try to power on, it should drain the caps. I've dissembled them before and been fine.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Here's one. It doesn't happen often but that doesn't make them any less dangerous or deadly.


LMAO the article said that he was
Quote:


> "A whiz kid. A true geek."


If that were true then he wouldn't have gotten his butt killed..... Just the truth, don't screw with it and take the chance if you don't have a clue what your doing!







I have been working with high voltage and advanced electronics since I was 10, and you do have to get shocked sometimes but you have to also use common sense when messing with high voltage..... A simple discharge of the stored capacitors would have worked.... Then he could have even stuck his tung on it if he wanted too.......









Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Well, not necessarily, if you unplug it, and then try to power on, it should drain the caps. I've dissembled them before and been fine.


+ 1


----------



## Insane569

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Here's one. It doesn't happen often but that doesn't make them any less dangerous or deadly.


Wow what a great choice on his part. Discharge your caps and you should be fine. I've worked on a lot of PSUs from PC to monitor to plasma TVs. Not a single issue on any of them. Probably because I don't go discharging caps with my pinky and index finger.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> I did find out his name and the college he went to, then I wiped the drive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the mobo took a crap or something, and thats why it got thrown out. Maybe bad ram, still haven't checked them. The PSU is bent to hell and some of the wires are clipped, I'll just trash it (again). lol
> 
> I'm thinking the CPU is a pretty good find
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up until this, my best dump find was a Phenom X4 9650 with 8GB DDR2 and a gts 9600gt


I would be interested in getting that PSU case or the entire thing. I would like a new cup holder.

As for dump finds. I got a lenovo laptop with a 500gb HDD. Also picked up 2 of my monitors from a "dump" and they both are the same model.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Well, not necessarily, if you unplug it, and then try to power on, it should drain the caps. I've dissembled them before and been fine.


Same I've ghetto modded like 5 psus before. Just don't be stupid, wear rubber gloves if you're that worried. Don't listen to all the crazy talk from the non ghetto.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

A good idea to do anytime you're working on computers.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Same I've ghetto modded like 5 psus before. Just don't be stupid, wear rubber gloves if you're that worried. Don't listen to all the crazy talk from the non ghetto.


I am non-ghetto and I condone and maintain that it MUST be done with proper safety measures taken. If not, screw off.


----------



## Werne

I am a ghetto atheist, I don't believe in the existence of safety measures.


----------



## RnRollie

I think the world is overpopulated, and if i can't have a Zombocalypse , then i like to see Darwin at work


----------



## burticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> This isn't really ghetto, but I don't think it fits anywhere else.
> 
> Look what I found at the dump yesterday
> 
> 
> It was a prebuilt hp someone upgraded a little. Phenom II X4 975 BE, 8GB ram, 1TB hard drive, 600w power supply, and a GTX 550 ti.
> 
> Took apart and washed the 550 ti (it smelled like a garbage truck) and reassembled it, works perfect. Washed the 1TB too, works perfect. Have yet to test the other components.


That's a fairly nice computer to be trashed. I have a suspicion that someone was pissed at someone else and threw their computer away. Ex boy/girlfriend, pissed off parent, who knows.

I say that because when I was a (dumb stupid boneheaded stoner) teenager I once pissed my mother off so bad she ran into my room and grabbed my Commodore gear and threw it at me / against the wall. Then she picked up the parts, dumped into a bag and hauled it down to the dumpster. I recovered the bag doing a dumpster dive shortly after. Most of the casings were broken but I was able to get most of it working again. She was PISSED when she saw I had dug it up and repaired it. From then on I made sure she focused her anger on me and not my computer. Bruises heal but computer parts are expensive, yo. True story. She has since reformed her ways and we get along fairly well now, but we did not speak for years.


----------



## chrisjames61

You must have done something to get her that mad at you.


----------



## burticus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> You must have done something to get her that mad at you.


I was a dumb know it all teenager (ever met any of those? nah?) and I'm sure I mouthed off to her about something. I don't remember the exact words spoken, that was 25 years ago.

I actually may have pictures somewhere (polaroids most likely), I should dig them up and scan them for this thread. That was some ghetto'd up Commodore stuff... duck tape everywhere. My C-128 took a ton of cosmetic damage but mostly still worked, I frankensteined a C64 keyboard into it, stuff like that. Lost a 1541 disk drive, that one shattered like a glass vase, but at least she didn't destroy the much more coveted 1571 or 1581... she just grabbed what was closest.

My friend had something similar happen but back in grade school... he failed a class so his mom threw his colecovision into the street. Then it was promptly run over by a truck. We tried to salvage it but it was dust. On top of that he had to go to summer school and pay for it out of his allowance for like a year.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Well, not necessarily, if you unplug it, and then try to power on, it should drain the caps. I've dissembled them before and been fine.


How do you discharge a PSU that doesn't have a power switch? Ground pin 14?


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> How do you discharge a PSU that doesn't have a power switch? Ground pin 14?


ground the green wire on the 24 pin connector


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> How do you discharge a PSU that doesn't have a power switch? Ground pin 14?


Huh? Just unlug it from the wall and try to power on the computer as you normally would.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Huh? Just unlug it from the wall and try to power on the computer as you normally would.


Or touch your tongue to the largest of the capacitors, that what I do!











Just kidding dont do it! No liable for anyone taking that joke serious lol


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> I was a dumb know it all teenager (ever met any of those? nah?) and I'm sure I mouthed off to her about something. I don't remember the exact words spoken, that was 25 years ago.
> 
> I actually may have pictures somewhere (polaroids most likely), I should dig them up and scan them for this thread. That was some ghetto'd up Commodore stuff... duck tape everywhere. My C-128 took a ton of cosmetic damage but mostly still worked, I frankensteined a C64 keyboard into it, stuff like that. Lost a 1541 disk drive, that one shattered like a glass vase, but at least she didn't destroy the much more coveted 1571 or 1581... she just grabbed what was closest.
> 
> My friend had something similar happen but back in grade school... he failed a class so his mom threw his colecovision into the street. Then it was promptly run over by a truck. We tried to salvage it but it was dust. On top of that he had to go to summer school and pay for it out of his allowance for like a year.


LOL


----------



## Mystriss

As amusing as I find the "Mom pissed at teenager" theory as I've been through a few, I'd think it's more likely to be an upgrade situation. I'm wishing I knew a ghetto dumpster driver right now cause I'm about to clean out my basement (about 10 years of rigs and parts down there and I upgrade fairly regularly) plus my husband is going to upgrade his HP system and laptop this summer as well.

It'd be nice if I had more time to mod, but I can barely work on my own rig much less build more systems ( ya know, for my know it all teens who've moved out







)


----------



## hambone96

Meet Ryan, the previous owner of the awesome dump pc. (He is with a different girl on facebook, LOL!)


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Meet Ryan, the previous owner of the awesome dump pc. (He is with a different girl on facebook, LOL!)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


cool, can't wait for the lawsuit once he or she find out you've posted this


----------



## hambone96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> cool, can't wait for the lawsuit once he or she find out you've posted this


Haha, seriously though


----------



## Teplous

thought I'd give you guys an update on my box build


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'm wishing I knew a ghetto dumpster driver right now cause I'm about to clean out my basement


One professional ghetto scavenger and dumpster diver reporting for duty ma'am.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> thought I'd give you guys an update on my box build


That BeQuiet cooler is madness. Funny how the expensive cooler is in a cardboard box cheaper than the one it shipped in haha


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That BeQuiet cooler is madness. Funny how the expensive cooler is in a cardboard box cheaper than the one it shipped in haha


You would be happy to know it's cooling off an underclocked Intel Ivy bridge Celeron.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> One professional ghetto scavenger and dumpster diver reporting for duty ma'am.


Planning to visit Alaska over the summer? I'd be happy to let you cart it all off


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> One professional ghetto scavenger and dumpster diver reporting for duty ma'am.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Planning to visit Alaska over the summer? I'd be happy to let you cart it all off
Click to expand...

depending on what it is we wouldn't mind paying postage.


----------



## Nightfallx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Meet Ryan, the previous owner of the awesome dump pc. (He is with a different girl on facebook, LOL!)


pshh he don't need gaming pc's no more, he's got himself a pick up truck.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Planning to visit Alaska over the summer? I'd be happy to let you cart it all off


Nah. I thought I could just sit my wheelbarrow and paddle across the Atlantic, but going all the way to Alaska would be a bit too far.









In other ghetto news, I'll be getting a brand new Neoware CA22 equipped with a 1GHz VIA Esther and 256MB RAM for free today, a local store is getting a cash register upgrade and they are throwing this thing away. Then I'll rip out the original guts, paint the case black, cut a hole for a standard PC backplate on the rear and shove my ASUS AM1I-A inside. That way I get an SFF case for free, and a working VIA platform as a bonus.

The case is supposedly a total of 53mm thick which is a pretty tight fit, and a potential problem as well since my board (with 8mm worth of mobo tray stand-offs) is exactly 53mm thick, 45mm without stand-offs, 46.3mm with bottom solder points included. I'll be cutting away the CPU fan stand-offs to press it directly against the heatsink which will give me another 2mm of free room. There's a whole lot of ghetto-rigging potential in this thing, and I shall take advantage of it.


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That BeQuiet cooler is madness. Funny how the expensive cooler is in a cardboard box cheaper than the one it shipped in haha


can you just put a mobo in a cardboard box? no isolation or anything? I know it shouldn't conduct or combust but something about cardboard and a psu with 500W and naked components makes me wonder how long its safe to do. And i suppose if something did spark or pop theres more chance of an impressive fire show


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Meet Ryan, the previous owner of the awesome dump pc. (He is with a different girl on facebook, LOL!)


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> can you just put a mobo in a cardboard box? no isolation or anything?


*ahem*



You can put a whole system in a cardboard box, add some canned wifi, tie a fan onto the cooler with a shoe lace, have no insulation what so ever (everything screwed directly into the cardboard, mobo screwed in to the box bottom with nuts and bolts), and it will run without a problem for years.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> depending on what it is we wouldn't mind paying postage.


I'll get back to you whenever we get around to cleaning and upgrading.


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> can you just put a mobo in a cardboard box? no isolation or anything? I know it shouldn't conduct or combust but something about cardboard and a psu with 500W and naked components makes me wonder how long its safe to do. And i suppose if something did spark or pop theres more chance of an impressive fire show


mine only has the mobo, processor, ram, hdd, and cooler, the power supply is external, and there is no pcie cards
nothing will short, and nothing will combust


----------



## mix1983

The drives are super small so I needed a few of them lol. The top drives are held by double sided tape.


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Meet Ryan, the previous owner of the awesome dump pc. (He is with a different girl on facebook, LOL!)


that utter ass hole he deserved every bit of it and than to be left with a dent in his thick dumb skull


----------



## BlackVenom

That's one hell of a dump/ster find!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> that utter ass hole he deserved every bit of it and than to be left with a dent in his thick dumb skull


lol wut!?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> that utter ass hole he deserved every bit of it and than to be left with a dent in his thick dumb skull


you suggesting the pc was bend & in the dump after she clobbered him over the head with it?


----------



## Scott1541

Here's something I did yesterday. I'm upgrading my grandparents desktop with the newest old hardware I have and couldn't find the brackets or screws to mount the heatsink or fan. This wasn't a problem though because I had some wire and wood screws handy


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Here's something I did yesterday. I'm upgrading my grandparents desktop with the newest old hardware I have and couldn't find the brackets or screws to mount the heatsink or fan. This wasn't a problem though because I had some wire and wood screws handy


...What is that mobo

i see lga 775 (?) cpu socket open mechanism but then there have older cooler mount's from pga478


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> ...What is that mobo
> 
> i see lga 775 (?) cpu socket open mechanism but then there have older cooler mount's from pga478


It's a gigabyte OEM board, and yes, it's LGA 775. It must be a pretty early board as it came with a single core celeron.


----------



## Werne

@Gereti It's an old s775 OEM board for Cedar Mill/Prescott Pentiums, it has a different hole spacing (compatible with 478) if I recall correctly, as well as DDR SDRAM memory support. Newer s775 retail boards for Core 2 started using a modern HS mounting system and DDR2/DDR3 memory lanes.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> It's a gigabyte OEM board, and yes, it's LGA 775. It must be a pretty early board as it came with a single core celeron.


Okay,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> @Gereti It's an old s775 OEM board for Cedar Mill/Prescott Pentiums, it has a different hole spacing (compatible with 478) if I recall correctly, as well as DDR SDRAM memory support. Newer s775 retail boards for Core 2 started using a modern HS mounting system and DDR2/DDR3 memory lanes.


Ah, i see, i own myself one (Edit, ömh, maby i had those two) DDR1 lga775 mobo with singlecore cpu, but that use lga775 cooler mounting hole's and normal lga775 cooler, then i have couple ddr2 lga775 mobo's, oem and non oem model's, it's pretty interesting socket becose ounly word LGA775 won't tell you what kind of memory it use's, (just like if some's say he own's amd AM2+ mobo, you can remember that it use ounly ddr2 memory)

i have one (or maby two) mounting bracket's from old amd asrock 754 mobo, it have mounting hole's from stock amd 754, and intel pga478, so i tried to put FX8320 cooler to P4 3.2Ghz HT cpu








wasn't able to fit it perfectly, maby old Phenom II heatsink would fitt...


----------



## jpetrach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> Haha, seriously though


I just love the Ham Bone name tag. I tried to find the SNL skit..... sadly I could not.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Hi, thread. I took these pictures a few days ago, but my phone is linked to my laptop. There is a layer of dust on my laptop. I think you can figure out why I didn't transfer them until now. Anyway, server case mod:



My handwriting is beautiful and I can't find a black Sharpie in the house. The bottom two cages had to be modified, with rails on the top that slid into the 5.25" cage above cut off.The top two needed holes in the side to fit a screw. Unfortunately, this interferes with drives, so full 3.5" devices will not work. However, a 3.5" to 2x2.5" adapter, modified to accommodate the screw, will work, so I'll be using three laptop drives and a cache SSD if this fills up all the way.



I'm actually impressed with my power drill skills here. A couple of the holes drilled were actually blind. I could see where they need to be on the inside, so I eyed it on the outside. Works perfectly.











Of course, this was made before the days of toolless drive bays.







How to access the screws on the other side? Cut a massive slot on the side, of course! I was originally going to be more precise and drill holes, like the stock ones above, but realized that this would be far easier with a Dremel and about six cut-off wheels. I am not good with cut-off wheels, by the way.



And here's the cute li'l server installed, plus exhaust fans. There are a couple mounting points for fans, but they're like 50mm. Nope. Not gonna deal. Expansion slot fans and a PSU for exhaust, and a 2x5.25" to 3x3.5" cage with fans and maybe a bracket for front intake should work well enough. I mean, there's a 30W Celeron and maybe 100W of drives at worst. That's assuming three laptop drives (I don't think server drives will fit), an SSD, and ten desktop drives, all 7200 RPM and the SSD made by Seagate, so it's 3W instead of 2W under full load.


----------



## GhettoFied

So I got this super old LianLi case from a friend for $10. Looking for some ideas to do with it, because right now its basically unbuildable. The front panel does not stay on, one of the clips is broken, the motherboard mounts are not there and left with empty square holes (never seen them before like that), and the PCIe mounting screw holes on the back are all stripped. Oh yeah, and it's so old that it has no 120 or 140mm fan holes, so I may just drill out some in the front. You guys have any ideas what I should do with it?
Edit: Also, I have no need for the front floppy drive slots or 5.25 slots, so maybe fans could go there?


----------



## RnRollie

ok, nothing spectacular here, but since i'm going to take it apart soon, time to post pic for posterity









This is a Fractal Design ARC (mark 1)
+Fatality Pro P67 w/ i7-2600k - Cooling: NZXT Kraken X60 (set to draw air in through the roof)
+GeForceGTX 690 - Cooling: Artic Accellero
+All F14 fans PWM driven (except the NB on the floor which is voltage at full throttle) - Front Intake (x2) , Rear Exhaust, Side Panel Exhaust

The setup/contraption is to make sure that the air which is sucked in throught the floor and the Front Bottom fan can ONLY go through the Accellero on the 690 and then gets out throught the side panel fan.
Any "hot" air that doesn't get out throught the side gets ousted by the Rear exhaust. The "hot" air can not be recirculated by the 690.

To my defense i have a sheet of plexi on standby for at least six months now, but i never got around to implement it. Instead i kinda left the "proof-of-concept" cardboard in place.









This cardboard consists of (frozen) Pizza boxes


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ok, nothing spectacular here, but since i'm going to take it apart soon, time to post pic for posterity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Fractal Design ARC (mark 1)
> +Fatality Pro P67 w/ i7-2600k - Cooling: NZXT Kraken X60 (set to draw air in through the roof)
> +GeForceGTX 690 - Cooling: Artic Accellero
> +All F14 fans PWM driven (except the NB on the floor which is voltage at full throttle) - Front Intake (x2) , Rear Exhaust, Side Panel Exhaust
> 
> The setup/contraption is to make sure that the air which is sucked in throught the floor and the Front Bottom fan can ONLY go through the Accellero on the 690 and then gets out throught the side panel fan.
> Any "hot" air that doesn't get out throught the side gets ousted by the Rear exhaust. The "hot" air can not be recirculated by the 690.
> 
> To my defense i have a sheet of plexi on standby for at least six months now, but i never got around to implement it. Instead i kinda left the "proof-of-concept" cardboard in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cardboard consists of (frozen) Pizza boxes


Good Idea but what about the VRMs, NB, and SB? Passive cooling is ok but not suggested for the North Bridge.....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ok, nothing spectacular here, but since i'm going to take it apart soon, time to post pic for posterity
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Fractal Design ARC (mark 1)
> +Fatality Pro P67 w/ i7-2600k - Cooling: NZXT Kraken X60 (set to draw air in through the roof)
> +GeForceGTX 690 - Cooling: Artic Accellero
> +All F14 fans PWM driven (except the NB on the floor which is voltage at full throttle) - Front Intake (x2) , Rear Exhaust, Side Panel Exhaust
> 
> The setup/contraption is to make sure that the air which is sucked in throught the floor and the Front Bottom fan can ONLY go through the Accellero on the 690 and then gets out throught the side panel fan.
> Any "hot" air that doesn't get out throught the side gets ousted by the Rear exhaust. The "hot" air can not be recirculated by the 690.
> 
> To my defense i have a sheet of plexi on standby for at least six months now, but i never got around to implement it. Instead i kinda left the "proof-of-concept" cardboard in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This cardboard consists of (frozen) Pizza boxes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So front upper fan is flowing toward motherboard and back / top exhaust fans. I guess that is supplying the airflow over motherboard components?


----------



## RnRollie

yup, any VRM, RAM, MB cooling is provided by the Front Upper fan & the fans on the Kraken (set as intake) , hence the rotated drive cage

all intake (front/top/floor) is filtered, all exhaust (rear & side) is non-filtered

since non-filtered is "flowing" better this balances out the more-fans-but-yet-more-restricted intake
if one were to be able to measure the tiny tiny differences.. this setup is pressure neutral









And yes, because of the top rad intake, the VRMs are slightly higher v. roof as exhaust..... about 3°C


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> So I got this super old LianLi case from a friend for $10. Looking for some ideas to do with it, because right now its basically unbuildable. The front panel does not stay on, one of the clips is broken, the motherboard mounts are not there and left with empty square holes (never seen them before like that), and the PCIe mounting screw holes on the back are all stripped. Oh yeah, and it's so old that it has no 120 or 140mm fan holes, so I may just drill out some in the front. You guys have any ideas what I should do with it?
> Edit: Also, I have no need for the front floppy drive slots or 5.25 slots, so maybe fans could go there?


Oh man... my Builder-Sense is Tingling!

I would love to do a scratch built exterior on that case.

You could always get a new motherboard tray and IO/Expansion Card set and mount them in there. As to the exterior, for some reason, it's screaming "WOOD." Make thyself a wooden exterior.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Oh man... my Builder-Sense is Tingling!
> 
> I would love to do a scratch built exterior on that case.
> 
> You could always get a new motherboard tray and IO/Expansion Card set and mount them in there. *As to the exterior, for some reason, it's screaming "WOOD." Make thyself a wooden exterior*.


nah, all done before.. be original, use marble & quartz or polished concrete


----------



## Vario

I'd do a wood front panel and paint the rest black.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Oh man... my Builder-Sense is Tingling!
> 
> I would love to do a scratch built exterior on that case.
> 
> You could always get a new motherboard tray and IO/Expansion Card set and mount them in there. *As to the exterior, for some reason, it's screaming "WOOD." Make thyself a wooden exterior*.
> 
> 
> 
> nah, all done before.. be original, use marble & quartz or polished concrete
Click to expand...

That would work... if you NEVER WANTED TO MOVE THE THING ON YOUR OWN AGAIN.

Here's an idea...

Take the outer panels, scuff the holy bejeezus out if them, put some wire mesh on all sides, then put Apoxie Sculpt on it and sculpt your own panels.

Once the sculpt is done, dried, and sanded smooth, you can either finish the panels with paint and whatnot, or you could use some Smooth-On Silicone Rubber Molding to make a mold of the panel, then use the mold to make a resin cast of the panel using Smooth-Cast 325 resin mixed in with any color or metal powder listed.


----------



## Hrv123

Concrete = like


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yup, any VRM, RAM, MB cooling is provided by the Front Upper fan & the fans on the Kraken (set as intake) , hence the rotated drive cage
> 
> all intake (front/top/floor) is filtered, all exhaust (rear & side) is non-filtered
> 
> since non-filtered is "flowing" better this balances out the more-fans-but-yet-more-restricted intake
> if one were to be able to measure the tiny tiny differences.. this setup is pressure neutral
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, because of the top rad intake, the VRMs are slightly higher v. roof as exhaust..... about 3°C


If you are not sure if case is +/- and have some vent area with no fans around it hold one ply of TP or other very soft / light weight paper in front of vent and see which way it moves.. toward or away from case.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Any of you know best method to secure wood to metal? Should I just drill holes?


Depends... will it be attached permanently, or do you want to be able to remove the wood from the metal?

For a permanent attachment, use all-purpose epoxy after roughing up both the metal and wood surfaces.

Otherwise, use bolts through the wood and metal (with the holes through the wood and metal slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt to allow for easy passage) and secure them with washers and nuts on the inside of the case. This will allow for a secure fit without risking stripping the threads on the wood or metal and will allow it to be removed relatively easily.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> ... Anybody have any tips on how to restore ABS plastic to a factory-fresh, not-sun-damaged state? I'm either doing that or a paintjob for the old case. This is an acceptable topic, right?


there are a few car-care products from Mothers, Meguiars and a few other brands with better more expensive products that will work wonders in restoring ABS -something from their Marine products line if i remember correctly

see also: http://www.detailingspot.com/?page_id=21


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> come on , we're guys, what would we be if we can't every now & then derail something to serve our little heads and obsessive minds?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every now and then we need to reconfirm our own grunting & snoring neanderthal selves... otherwise we turn into bloodless metrosexuals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would the world come to if there were only metrosexual men left? No more bacon QP burgers, no more pissing contests, no more bar fights, no more roadrage, no more wars, ... is that really the world you would want to live ..... er .. hang on..... er ... change subject ...


Oh god what have I done! I turned the mankind into a bunch of law-abiding pansies by getting back on topic.









Anyway...

Do you guys know why I'm a ghetto engineer? Because I see the potential in trash and can find a purpose for any piece of old broken crap. I turn ordinary junk into extraordinary garbage.









Like this monitor for example:


This thing had a close encounter with someone who is the Croatian equivalent of an angry German kid and is now no more. R.I.P crappy old monitor. So, what do you do with a dead monitor? Disassemble it, rip out the broken panel, keep that massive piece of plexi inside as well as a reflective foil behind it and you got yourself a ghetto lighting system!









The four neon tubes inside old LCD panels are bright as hell, but they lose a bit with that whole monitor assembly, I'll tear the thing apart tomorrow and bypass the lighting system on the PCB to be powered off a 12V adapter, then put the circuit and tubes into a nice case and mount it as my front porch lighting. This monitor also has an audio amplifier as well as speakers, which I will bypass and remove from the monitor as well so I can use it for another project.

Regardless of light losses in the current build, that thing still gives off a whole lot of light, which I will be improving on and getting more. Most importantly, I'll make a great 12V neon lighting system that costs $100 around here out of something free most people consider junk material.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> come on , we're guys, what would we be if we can't every now & then derail something to serve our little heads and obsessive minds?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Every now and then we need to reconfirm our own grunting & snoring neanderthal selves... otherwise we turn into bloodless metrosexuals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would the world come to if there were only metrosexual men left? No more bacon QP burgers, no more pissing contests, no more bar fights, no more roadrage, no more wars, ... is that really the world you would want to live ..... er .. hang on..... er ... change subject ...
> 
> *snip pointless and idiotic part of post*
> 
> Anyways, lets get back on topic... er.. what was the topic again?


If you want to reconfirm your boyhood in such a way (I refuse to call it manhood, as only boys behave constantly in that fashion. Men know when it's appropriate... and this entire site is NOT an appropriate place for it), then I recommend checking out any of the numerous websites out there that cater to the more prurient interests of the male psyche.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> ... Anybody have any tips on how to restore ABS plastic to a factory-fresh, not-sun-damaged state? I'm either doing that or a paintjob for the old case. This is an acceptable topic, right?
> 
> 
> 
> there are a few car-care products from Mothers, Meguiars and a few other brands with better more expensive products that will work wonders in restoring ABS -something from their Marine products line if i remember correctly
> 
> see also: http://www.detailingspot.com/?page_id=21
Click to expand...

^This. However, depending on how sun-damaged the ABS is, you might find it cheaper and less time-consuming to just repaint the case. Of course, there's the idea of how much sun damage there is. If it's too great, the ABS can become brittle and take neither a restoration via car-care product nor a repaint.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Of course, there's the idea of how much sun damage there is. If it's too great, the ABS can become brittle and take neither a restoration via car-care product nor a repaint.


There are three identical ones in my possession, and they're all metal, steel most likely, except for a plastic front panel. One of them might have had a clip holding the power button in place damaged beyond easy or worthwhile repair because I might have been hammering a screwdriver to get it out. That one had some heavy sun damage, and it's pretty trashed.

I cut off a clip holding it to the case on another (it was interfering with the bottom drive cage), and the plastic underneath didn't look too different than the plastic exposed to the environment. The power and reset buttons aren't stained nearly as badly either. This one should still be flexible, though aged a bit.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> there are a few car-care products from Mothers, Meguiars and a few other brands with better more expensive products that will work wonders in restoring ABS -something from their Marine products line if i remember correctly
> 
> see also: http://www.detailingspot.com/?page_id=21


Ooh, those look nice, thanks! Actually, car detailing reminds me: how well does vinyl die work with ABS? I've read that the small amount of acetone, I believe, in it dissolves the topmost layer of plastic and allows the dye to bond to it. It's been windy and humid here recently, so spray paint is not an option for the time being.


----------



## Ridingmac

OK . ive been lurking and posting here and there for a while now . now it my time for a little contribution to getho riggin , now im no getho riggin expert and this isnt much but like they say . something is better the nothing lolll .

First of all heres how an HDD Normally goes into a Zalman Z9 case


then i removed this. Wich is the HDD holder clamp thigny


And flipped the HDD Nipples Around like this


And Boom same HDD hold . Same crappy noise . but MORE airflow around HDD and to MOBO from front fan

P.S sorry for cell phone pics


----------



## leafsnow

Here i am adding my ghetto mods


I added fans cuz i thought it cool it down only by a few degrees 1 intake 1 excess and a excess pussing excess towards me


----------



## Radmanhs

my ghetto keyboard fix isn't as bad as some of yours, but here it is



I somehow got a little soda in one of my mechanical switches and it was bugging me a ton because it worked, but it felt slow and didn't click like a real cherry mx blue switch at all. My dad and I ended up burning through 2 of the traces and had to rip apart an old phone charger and use the cable to jump the line, now it works perfectly!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I love how durable mechanical keyboards are. Now what has this taught you about drinking in front of you computer?


----------



## Werne

Guys, did any of you ever use an aluminum coffee pot as a CPU dry ice pot? I can't afford a CPU pot so I'm looking for alternatives.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Guys, did any of you ever use an aluminum coffee pot as a CPU dry ice pot? I can't afford a CPU pot so I'm looking for alternatives.


I believe you want it to be insulated, not conductive of heat.


----------



## Willi

hmm, consider using a tall one, with the thinnest aluminum base possible. It might work if you make a decent mounting system with good pressure over the CPU. Lowering the temps too fast might crack the glass the processor die is made of, though


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I love how durable mechanical keyboards are. Now what has this taught you about drinking in front of you computer?


shhh shhh shhh


----------



## gopackersjt

I had an hdd duct taped in place for a little while :/


----------



## Werne

@CynicalUnicorn I got a few old socks I can sacrifice in the name of science and use as insulation for the thing, but I'm not sure if a coffee pot would work. Google isn't very helpful either, seems like no one else came up with that idea.









@Willi Well, this thing isn't tall at all, only 65mm, but the bottom is .5mm thick. My guess is the height is just to increase the amount of ice in the pot or am I horribly wrong on that part?

As for lowering temps too fast, I got plenty of old Athlon 64s to try and play with so I can learn on my mistakes, I'll just start with the crappiest ones and if they crack, find some way to make the temps drop slower. Biggest concern I have is killing the mobo itself, I can't find any good 939 mobos, CPUs are expendable on the other hand cause they are cheap and there's plenty.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Uh, you don't want one with glass inside. If so, you're isolating the outside of it from the ln2.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> @Willi Well, this thing isn't tall at all, only 65mm, but the bottom is .5mm thick. My guess is the height is just to increase the amount of ice in the pot or am I horribly wrong on that part?
> 
> As for lowering temps too fast, I got plenty of old Athlon 64s to try and play with so I can learn on my mistakes, I'll just start with the crappiest ones and if they crack, find some way to make the temps drop slower. Biggest concern I have is killing the mobo itself, I can't find any good 939 mobos, CPUs are expendable on the other hand cause they are cheap and there's plenty.


Yes, the height is to fit more cubes and perhaps be usable with LN2 as well. And if you got enough processors, then go ahead and post some photos. Just remember to make the bottom of the pot as flat as possible, possibly lapping/polishing helps.
I don't know if you guys put a little bit of water to help with the temp transfer with the dry ice (since the cube contact area with the pot is probably too small, like one or two faces of a cube touching the metal). If so, the pot's height will help keeping any droplets in it and away from the sensitive circuitry.


----------



## RnRollie

coffee pot not ghetto enough, use an empty tincan.... condensed milk or tomato paste or something


or a 1 1/2 inch copper pipe witha flat copper end cap soldered on if you want LESS ghetto


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Uh, you don't want one with glass inside. If so, you're isolating the outside of it from the ln2.


What with glass inside? Now I'm confused.

By the way, I think your username and user title are conflicting.









@Willi Well, I got no intention to use LN2 anytime soon, I'll be borrowing dry ice from a fishing boat (they use it to keep the fish fresh on long hauls) and LN2 is too expensive for me to even consider it. LN2 itself is cheap but the container is €2000 for the cheapest one, not to mention I'd have to go 350km just to get it. I can extend the height with those big paper cups, got plenty of those, there's a carnival across the street so I can grab a whole garage full of them. Oh, I'd be polishing the coffee pot, it's already has a pretty flat bottom I'll make 100% flat with a hydraulic press so polishing is a must.

While using some form of liquid is a must since pieces of ice don't have much contact with the pot otherwise, I personally think it's better to use pure alcohol instead of water, doesn't leave any gunk and the pot requires less cleaning.









And I'd post photos but I only got three A64s at the moment, all single-core Venice, used to be over 30 of them a few months back. I sold most of them since they were overclocking like crap and I borrowed 8 of those to a friend of mine a few days ago (nostalgia hit him). The ones I gave him are the worst A64s I have that can't even do 100MHz over stock without hitting a big voltage wall, those will be the test subjects. Even if they all die, I can buy a whole pile of those in a local repair shop, guy there sells old 939 single-cores at $2 a piece.









Dual-cores still hold a nasty price though, cheaper than C2D but hell, $50 a unit is still too damn high.

@RnRollie Tin can doesn't have a flat enough surface but it's ghetto enough while a copper pipe is much more functional but not ghetto enough. Coffee pot is a compromise, ghetto and functional when used for sub-zero CPU cooling and it can still be used for making coffee. It's a multi-purpose tool, like a Swiss army ghetto pot.


----------



## RnRollie

you *could* cheat and use copper pipe with a "Heinz baked beans" label stuck to it


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> What with glass inside? Now I'm confused.
> 
> By the way, I think your username and user title are conflicting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Willi Well, I got no intention to use LN2 anytime soon, I'll be borrowing dry ice from a fishing boat (they use it to keep the fish fresh on long hauls) and LN2 is too expensive for me to even consider it. LN2 itself is cheap but the container is €2000 for the cheapest one, not to mention I'd have to go 350km just to get it. I can extend the height with those big paper cups, got plenty of those, there's a carnival across the street so I can grab a whole garage full of them. Oh, I'd be polishing the coffee pot, it's already has a pretty flat bottom I'll make 100% flat with a hydraulic press so polishing is a must.
> 
> While using some form of liquid is a must since pieces of ice don't have much contact with the pot otherwise, I personally think it's better to use pure alcohol instead of water, doesn't leave any gunk and the pot requires less cleaning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'd post photos but I only got three A64s at the moment, all single-core Venice, used to be over 30 of them a few months back. I sold most of them since they were overclocking like crap and I borrowed 8 of those to a friend of mine a few days ago (nostalgia hit him). The ones I gave him are the worst A64s I have that can't even do 100MHz over stock without hitting a big voltage wall, those will be the test subjects. Even if they all die, I can buy a whole pile of those in a local repair shop, guy there sells old 939 single-cores at $2 a piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dual-cores still hold a nasty price though, cheaper than C2D but hell, $50 a unit is still too damn high.
> 
> @RnRollie Tin can doesn't have a flat enough surface but it's ghetto enough while a copper pipe is much more functional but not ghetto enough. Coffee pot is a compromise, ghetto and functional when used for sub-zero CPU cooling and it can still be used for making coffee. It's a multi-purpose tool, like a Swiss army ghetto pot.


I dunno, willi said something about glass, and I was just saying you definitely don't want it.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you *could* cheat and use copper pipe with a "Heinz baked beans" label stuck to it


You know, that's not a bad idea at all, might even slap it on the coffee pot for starters.









I'll get a real CPU pot one fine day, just not this year and maybe not even next year. But I will get it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> I dunno, willi said something about glass, and I was just saying you definitely don't want it.


Yeah, he said dropping temps too fast might crack the glass CPU die is made of. And I do need it, it's kinda hard to overclock a CPU without a die, you know.


----------



## Willi

well, you can wait for the core to cool down slowly, adding a bit of DI at a time, slowly lowering the temps before attempting any run. Once its cold enough (yeah, you DEFINITELY NEED a thermometer for that) then you can start your attempts. Stating out while its lowering the temps might cause a thermal shock and cause the glass that makes up the processor die to break. I'm not a pro, sub-zero overcolcker by any means, but I've accompanied a session and saw a processor die due to shattered die. it was a pity, but lesson learned.


----------



## Werne

I'll be testing for the right way to drop temps without dropping them too fast, don't want to kill something valuable and I got lots of cheap test subjects lined up and waiting to be abused. I also have a pretty good analog probe thermometer for LN2, my old boss couldn't pay me so I took that thing as payment instead, it works perfectly for LN2 on sub-zero welders so it ought to work great for dry ice as well.









And now for something completely different (I like Monty Python). Since my room temperature just hit 34oC (I got no AC, too expensive), I needed a way to keep myself cool cause I'm sweating like a pig. Therefore, time for ghetto innovation!











I cut the cables off a cheap Chinese 80mm 2000RPM fan and soldered 80cm of 2x0.75mm cable attached to an old server PSU I fixed which was used for firing up storage drives. The fan itself is mounted onto a 25pcs CD case I drilled a hole in for the screw then filled it with my soldering tools so the fan doesn't fall down. That thing is pointed towards me of course, and now I feel much cooler, I'm even thinking of getting a 1200RPM 200mm fan and a 50pcs case to replace this thing for less noise and more airflow.

Funny enough though, despite a huge rise in temps my Mugen 4 PCGH can still keep a 4.5GHz 8-core Vishera at 57.4oC max with 34oC ambient, before summer it kept it at 55.2oC max with 21oC ambient. A 13oC rise in ambient = 2.2oC rise in CPU temperature. I love this heatsink, it does the job exceptionally well for a low price cooler even though it only has two 1000RPM GlideStreams on it.


----------



## RnRollie

or...


----------



## prince vultan

your welcome cynicalunicorn


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prince vultan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> your welcome cynicalunicorn


REP + Good find!


----------



## azanimefan

well i promised pics way back when of some of my ghetto rigging... here were go.

here we have electrical tape "sleeving" of my gentle typhoon wires... it looks like crap, but it actually helps keep them under control. before i did that i had great difficulty keeping those wires from getting fouled up in the fans...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








here we have the super glued on Velcro strips on my corsair h100 rad... and inside my antec 902.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












not only does this work flawlessly, but this fundamentally incompatible case and rad combo are instrumental in me pulling out a 5.0ghz 24/7 clock on this computer. (btw: i was swapping out hard drives, cause i bought a new one, and noted the Velcro had come a little loose, so i decided to snap these pictures and glue it back into place... then show you the end result. it works great... looks like crap, but damn if it isn't convenient.

I'd like to take a minute to thank the good men and women of the space program, without which we wouldn't have things like velcro allowing my lazy ass to secure my water rad seamlessly and flawlessly to the inside of my case at the same time eliminating vibration noise, and the hastle associated with water rads and cleaning them or servicing of the motherboard underneath.


----------



## Duality92

very temporary setup, H70 pump on a XSPC EX280.
http://imageshack.com/a/img838/8219/qi7c.jpg

Watercooled XFX Radeon HD One 5450 (see sig thread for moar pictures)
http://imageshack.com/a/img836/7757/lznj.jpg


----------



## sciencegey

I'm not sure if this matches the ghetto-ness level of the other posts, but my 2 7850's were getting hot will oc'd, so I found a spare Noctua fan (just have loads lying around







(not really!)) and stuck it between the ODD cage and the HDD cage! It was a perfect fit!







And the rubber anti-vibration corner things help keep it in place!


Spoiler: Warning: Possible Ghetto-ness!


----------



## Werne

To be honest, I really really hate the push-pin mounting system for Kabini, it sucks. You need to press the outer push-pins into the mobo holes with even pressure and then shove the central pin through them to lock those. But you have two insanely strong springs that make that difficult and the cooler mostly just pops over to the side, meaning I have to take it off, clean the TIM, apply it again and then the same thing happens a few times more. I spent half a tube of MX 2 on this thing.









So, due to major problems with mounting the bloody HSF (the engineer who designed those push-pins should definitely be fired), I decided to solve the issue myself.


Ta-da! Fixed with a bolt-through system using AMD's own bloody springs. Works hell of a lot better now, I can precisely control the pressure and there are no problems with mounting, not to mention there's no push-pin in sight! Now I need to apply TIM just once without swearing or frustration, I love bolt-through mounting systems.









And the backplate:


I cut it out of an "Attachable Case" I used as a sandwich tray until now. Apparently, it's not as attachable anymore.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> To be honest, I really really hate the push-pin mounting system for Kabini, it sucks. You need to press the outer push-pins into the mobo holes with even pressure and then shove the central pin through them to lock those. But you have two insanely strong springs that make that difficult and the cooler mostly just pops over to the side, meaning I have to take it off, clean the TIM, apply it again and then the same thing happens a few times more. I spent half a tube of MX 2 on this thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, due to major problems with mounting the bloody HSF (the engineer who designed those push-pins should definitely be fired), I decided to solve the issue myself.
> 
> 
> Ta-da! Fixed with a bolt-through system using AMD's own bloody springs. Works hell of a lot better now, I can precisely control the pressure and there are no problems with mounting, not to mention there's no push-pin in sight! Now I need to apply TIM just once without swearing or frustration, I love bolt-through mounting systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the backplate:
> 
> 
> I cut it out of an "Attachable Case" I used as a sandwich tray until now. Apparently, it's not as attachable anymore.


Geenyus. I agree, push pins need to die.


----------



## 222Panther222

Moded an old antec fan to usb. It doesn't push a lot of air because it's running at 5v instead of 12v, but it does the job just fine at exhausting the hot air out of the tv stand.. Tested it with kz:sf and now its almost dead silent.









(btw now it's fixed with screws because it didn't last long with electrical tape)









It's plugged in the tv usb so On/off same as tv.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Geenyus. I agree, push pins need to die.


That I agree with. But Intel push-pins are actually good for numbnuts who never did anything around a PC in their entire life except use it, these on the other hand are hell even for someone like me who built countless machines since 2003.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> btw now it's fixed with screws because it didn't last long with electrical tape


Then you were using electrical tape wrong.









And it reminds me of a brand new 250GB Seagate I got yesterday...


"Blocking the top breather hole voids warranty." "Improper mounting voids warranty." "Handling by unauthorized personnel voids warranty."


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I can agree with the push pins. I was using stock TIM because lazy, but the instructions have 11 steps and the pins come in four pieces. :/


----------



## Boinz

I would slay the individual who thought of those intel push pins, they are the bane of every Intel PC builder. I didn't even bother when I got my i5 3570k.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I can agree with the push pins. I was using stock TIM because lazy, but the instructions have 11 steps and the pins come in four pieces. :/


Yeah, the pins are delivered in four pieces (central locking system x2 and push-pins with springs x2) and detached from the heatsink itself. Kinda dumb packaging, 2-3mm bigger box and it could be delivered assembled.

And I got no idea about the instructions, I threw those away immediately after pulling them out of the box. I don't read instructions to figure out how to do something, I read the instructions to figure out where I screwed up. Luckily, it almost never happens. Almost.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> I would slay the individual who thought of those intel push pins, they are the bane of every Intel PC builder. I didn't even bother when I got my i5 3570k.


Did something change with the 115x sockets? Old 775 was simple - set push-pins to locked position, push the two opposite ones at the same time, push the other two at the same time, done. Haven't owned any Intel units after Core 2 and I always use aftermarket coolers when I build PCs for sale, but I mounted a 775 stock cooler a few times and it mounted fairly easily.

And did anyone actually watch the 



? I love it how the guy lowers the cooler on top of the CPU, lifts it up to remove a cable he caught in the push-pins then puts it back down. Not to mention the cooler wobbles and tilts a few times while he's pushing those pins into position. Nope, absolutely no bubbles in the TIM application there, all is well.









By the way, seeing how hot Haswell/Ivy Bridge get, I won't be surprised if Intel gave this guy a job to install lids on them.


----------



## DaveLT

ROFL. Either way all LGA stock coolers are idiotic. Everytime I get a new boxed processor I just chuck the stock cooler back in the box. Not to mention I sometimes had the chips overheating when I installed the stock cooler in the past


----------



## Pawelr98

I prefer the Amd mounting system. The lever just clicks and stays there. I hate intel push-pins. They always jumps out of their place(I have to re-mount them like 3-4 times to make sure they will stay there).
But I still remember my waterblock mounting system replacement.The used block(MNP Poseidon) came without mounting system(only springs and nuts). So used my spare parts to build one. Contac 29 backplate, four 50mm M4 screws from leroy merlin. Worked fine for many months.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> ROFL. Either way all LGA stock coolers are idiotic. Everytime I get a new boxed processor I just chuck the stock cooler back in the box. Not to mention I sometimes had the chips overheating when I installed the stock cooler in the past


Well, the last time I used a stock cooler on my machine for more than one day (to check if everything is working) was... never, actually.

Even on my Kabini machine. No aftermarket cooler support? No problem:

I made my own ghetto bolt-through mounting system.









I intend to use that heatsink (Athlon 64 cooler) for passive cooling which is a bit of a... problem. Kabini has a maximum core temperature of 70C but the board starts throttling cores down to make the CPU remain at 64C. It's funny though, the CPU is capable of remaining on 64C indefinitely through some kind of a weird throttling kicking in and leveraging a lot of different frequencies to make the CPU run as fast as it can without exceeding that temp, not even by a 0.1C. I even tried it on it's stock cooler, 4m until it hits 64C and it starts the multiplier dance.

Whatever AMD built into this thing, it's working bloody good. My guess is they meant to ship it with a passive cooler and built that in to make the CPU work as best as it can without getting too hot (since passive coolers have no fans to kick into overdrive and lower temps). You could just disconnect the CPU fan during an IBT run and it will work just fine, I like that.









But I have a problem - the CPU takes about 25m to hit 64C at 2.0GHz and 1.146V, but I don't want it to throttle. I just can't find a heatsink that's adequate enough for this thing to be used passively without hitting 64C, this is the best heatsink of the 5 I tested.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> But I have a problem - the CPU takes about 25m to hit 64C at 2.0GHz and 1.146V, but I don't want it to throttle. I just can't find a heatsink that's adequate enough for this thing to be used passively without hitting 64C, this is the best heatsink of the 5 I tested.


The question is:
Do you run stress tests 24/7 ? No ? Then It won't even come close to this.


----------



## Werne

True, it works below 40C while just browsing the web, checking e-mails or watching movies (what this machine will be used for). But still, it doesn't make me comfortable knowing my CPU throttles, despite the fact that it's way below it's thermal limit (76C TCase, 70C TCtl, throttling at 64C).

Ah well, I'll find a better cooler some day.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> True, it works below 40C while just browsing the web, checking e-mails or watching movies (what this machine will be used for). But still, it doesn't make me comfortable knowing my CPU throttles, despite the fact that it's way below it's thermal limit (76C TCase, 70C TCtl, throttling at 64C).
> 
> Ah well, I'll find a better cooler some day.


You *could* try to install something "slightly" bigger as the MB








http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/cooling/33008-nofan-cr-95c-icepipe/


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> You *could* try to install something "slightly" bigger as the MB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/cooling/33008-nofan-cr-95c-icepipe/


Ah yes, the hamster wheel. I can live with the size but giving ~$165 on a cooler is not really an option I'm afraid.









And I've been thinking... is it possible to attach more heatsinks to a heatsink without them falling off? If I attach enough heatsinks to my heatsink it may just be enough to keep the CPU passive.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> You *could* try to install something "slightly" bigger as the MB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/cooling/33008-nofan-cr-95c-icepipe/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah yes, the hamster wheel. I can live with the size but giving ~$165 on a cooler is not really an option I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I've been thinking... is it possible to attach more heatsinks to a heatsink without them falling off? If I attach enough heatsinks to my heatsink it may just be enough to keep the CPU passive.
Click to expand...

the weight of multiples of that one may damage the mobo unless we use something to prop that up. But we might be able to build the leanning tower of piza with those off the cpu.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Ah yes, the hamster wheel. I can live with the size but giving ~$165 on a cooler is not really an option I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I've been thinking... is it possible to attach more heatsinks to a heatsink without them falling off? If I attach enough heatsinks to my heatsink it may just be enough to keep the CPU passive.


Or simply find a fan that will hapily run at 3.3V(such fans exist).
Get a cheap used A64 Freezer Pro. It can keep oc'ed 965 at 60°C with fan @2000rpm so it should be able to keep your cpu running passive.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Or simply find a fan that will hapily run at 3.3V(such fans exist).
> Get a cheap used A64 Freezer Pro. It can keep oc'ed 965 at 60°C with fan @2000rpm so it should be able to keep your cpu running passive.


I already have a fan that can run at 3.3V and keep it very cool, even that teeny-tiny stock cooler can keep it well within spec with a 40mm fan at 900RPM, but I'm looking to build a machine that has no fans at all in the system and is as small as possible. A fanless AM1 system, a Pico PSU and an SSD inside a small scratch-built wooden mITX case is what I'm thinking of doing, tiny and completely silent. Plus, having fans ain't fun.









As for Freezer Pro, I got a Freezer 13 and it can't keep the CPU passive. Problem with those kinds of coolers is that they are made to be used with fans and are next to useless once airflow through their fins stops. Also, I'll be using the mobo horizontally and the fins also stand horizontally, which only makes things much worse.

Anyway, I'm very close to keeping the CPU under 64C with this heatsink, I can almost taste it! Going for 1.9GHz now, maybe I get lucky and it stays around 60C.









EDIT: 1.9GHz at 1.084V is almost perfect, took it whole 20 minutes to move from 62C to 64C and a grand total of 46 minutes to hit 64C, I'm very very close. A bit of voltage tweaking ad dropping RAM volts ought to make it run cooler.

As a side-note, I hate Kingston HyperX Blu, that thing runs bloody hot even at 1333 9-9-9-24 1.5V. Ripjaws in my desktop run a whole magnitude cooler at 2133MHz 11-13-12-36 1.65V. Stupid RAM.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I already have a fan that can run at 3.3V and keep it very cool, even that teeny-tiny stock cooler can keep it well within spec with a 40mm fan at 900RPM, but I'm looking to build a machine that has no fans at all in the system and is as small as possible. A fanless AM1 system, a Pico PSU and an SSD inside a small scratch-built wooden mITX case is what I'm thinking of doing, tiny and completely silent. Plus, having fans ain't fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for Freezer Pro, I got a Freezer 13 and it can't keep the CPU passive. Problem with those kinds of coolers is that they are made to be used with fans and are next to useless once airflow through their fins stops. Also, I'll be using the mobo horizontally and the fins also stand horizontally, which only makes things much worse.
> 
> Anyway, I'm very close to keeping the CPU under 64C with this heatsink, I can almost taste it! Going for 1.9GHz now, maybe I get lucky and it stays around 60C.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: 1.9GHz at 1.084V is almost perfect, took it whole 20 minutes to move from 62C to 64C and a grand total of 46 minutes to hit 64C, I'm very very close. A bit of voltage tweaking ad dropping RAM volts ought to make it run cooler.
> 
> As a side-note, I hate Kingston HyperX Blu, that thing runs bloody hot even at 1333 9-9-9-24 1.5V. Ripjaws in my desktop run a whole magnitude cooler at 2133MHz 11-13-12-36 1.65V. Stupid RAM.


You are the direct opposite of me, LOL. I usually try to stuff as many fans or say, bloody dare as I can into a rig.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> You are the direct opposite of me, LOL. I usually try to stuff as many fans or say, bloody dare as I can into a rig.


Hell, I stuff a lot of fans in performance machines as well, but this is a HTPC that needs to be quiet and the first fanless machine I intend to build that isn't a VIA.

Actually, even VIA needs a CPU fan to run at acceptable temps without throttling, 1.8GHz VIA C7 Esther runs at 1GHz under full load cause it reaches insane temps, likely due to it's 90nm production process. Can't imagine what VIA would be able to do with Intel's fabs and 22nm, those things would be awesome.

And I'm yet to see an Isaiah unit, I wonder why are those so hard to find.









EDIT: SUCCESS!!!











"Success! Your system was able to maintain it's stability while running IntelBurnTest. This is usually an indication that your e-peen has increased by 3.7%, if at least tested by Standard stress level."









100% passive Kabini, not a single fan in the system, I even shut down the PSU fan while praying that cheap POS doesn't blow up. Had to drop down to 1.8GHz and the voltage all the way to 1.056V (1.031V under load) but it has no fans and does not go over 60.5C (been hovering from 60 to 60.5C for 30 minutes). I'm sure I can drop voltage even lower, going for 1.05 was basically "it will work 100% so I'll tweak if necessary".

And I just beat Biostar! They got that 1.5GHz soldered mobile Kabini systems with a passive cooler that hits 64C within 15 minutes, I instead ran an hour of IBT at 1.8GHz without crossing 61C on this chunk of aluminum I dug out of an old A64 machine and a ghetto bolt-through mounting system made out of two screws, a piece of an aluminum sheet that presses the heatsink down and a cut-up CD case for backplate:



Flawless victory!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Hell, I stuff a lot of fans in performance machines as well, but this is a HTPC that needs to be quiet and the first fanless machine I intend to build that isn't a VIA.
> 
> Actually, even VIA needs a CPU fan to run at acceptable temps without throttling, 1.8GHz VIA C7 Esther runs at 1GHz under full load cause it reaches insane temps, likely due to it's 90nm production process. Can't imagine what VIA would be able to do with Intel's fabs and 22nm, those Nanos would be awesome.
> 
> And I'm yet to see an Isaiah unit, I wonder why are those so hard to find.


My HTPC is not so chuck full of fans ... It's in a CM N200


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Hell, I stuff a lot of fans in performance machines as well, but this is a HTPC that needs to be quiet and the first fanless machine I intend to build that isn't a VIA.
> 
> Actually, even VIA needs a CPU fan to run at acceptable temps without throttling, 1.8GHz VIA C7 Esther runs at 1GHz under full load cause it reaches insane temps, likely due to it's 90nm production process. Can't imagine what VIA would be able to do with Intel's fabs and 22nm, those things would be awesome.
> 
> And I'm yet to see an Isaiah unit, I wonder why are those so hard to find.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: SUCCESS!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Success! Your system was able to maintain it's stability while running IntelBurnTest. This is usually an indication that your e-peen has increased by 3.7%, if at least tested by Standard stress level."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100% passive Kabini, not a single fan in the system, I even shut down the PSU fan while praying that cheap POS doesn't blow up. Had to drop down to 1.8GHz and the voltage all the way to 1.056V (1.031V under load) but it has no fans and does not go over 60.5C (been hovering from 60 to 60.5C for 30 minutes). I'm sure I can drop voltage even lower, going for 1.05 was basically "it will work 100% so I'll tweak if necessary".
> 
> And I just beat Biostar! They got that 1.5GHz soldered mobile Kabini systems with a passive cooler that hits 64C within 15 minutes, I instead ran an hour of IBT at 1.8GHz without crossing 61C on this chunk of aluminum I dug out of an old A64 machine and a ghetto bolt-through mounting system made out of two screws, a piece of an aluminum sheet that presses the heatsink down and a cut-up CD case for backplate:
> 
> Flawless victory!


That is a wicked cool mod! HAHA I said cool. Making me want to build an HTPC now. So I'm still sitting on this Lian Li case I posted about earlier, emailed Lian Li and they don't have the mobo standoffs anymore. Going to have to get a motherboard tray and ghetto it in there.


----------



## Jared2608

I can't take pics right now but I have an 80mm fan attached the meshed side panel of my case by tilting it at a slight angle until two of the holes match up with the mesh. I then put 2 screws through it, and used a piece of CAT 5 cable outer cover as a washer and screwed the screws into it. Been holding for ages. On the same rig I had to replace my 775 board but the one I put in didn't have an I/O Shield so I took a side cutter and cut pieces out of my existing one to make it work with the new mainboard....Does this qualify as ghetto rigging?


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That is a wicked cool mod! HAHA I said cool. Making me want to build an HTPC now. So I'm still sitting on this Lian Li case I posted about earlier, emailed Lian Li and they don't have the mobo standoffs anymore. Going to have to get a motherboard tray and ghetto it in there.


I use the old VGA/DVI screws for mobo standoffs when I run out of real ones, you can get a dead graphics card for peanuts and take off the port screws to use for your mobo. They are a bit shorter than a standard motherboard standoff so you'd need to use a washer between it and the mobo (I cut a piece of thin cardboard to serve as a washer) and use different screws for screwing in the mobo, but they serve very well as emergency mobo standoffs.









And since I haven't been ghetto-rigging on my PC lately, does a ghetto keychain count?



I made that out of an old 512MB DDR2-667 SODIMM about a year ago cause no one wanted to buy it for $4, had plenty of keyrings and when I saw the hole in that SODIMM, this happened. Most importantly, it gives me nerd rep.

By the way, this thing still works, used it two weeks ago in my old laptop when it's RAM died. It's both a cool keychain and good emergency memory.


----------



## Torvi

enjoy tour hands getting cut whenever u try to reach em from ur pocket :d


----------



## Ridingmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I use the old VGA/DVI screws for mobo standoffs when I run out of real ones, you can get a dead graphics card for peanuts and take off the port screws to use for your mobo. They are a bit shorter than a standard motherboard standoff so you'd need to use a washer between it and the mobo (I cut a piece of thin cardboard to serve as a washer) and use different screws for screwing in the mobo, but they serve very well as emergency mobo standoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And since I haven't been ghetto-rigging on my PC lately, does a ghetto keychain count?
> 
> 
> 
> I made that out of an old 512MB DDR2-667 SODIMM about a year ago cause no one wanted to buy it for $4, had plenty of keyrings and when I saw the hole in that SODIMM, this happened. Most importantly, it gives me nerd rep.
> 
> By the way, this thing still works, used it two weeks ago in my old laptop when it's RAM died. It's both a cool keychain and good emergency memory.


i made the same thing from a sector 5 2gig DDR3 240pin that busted on me . i cut it in half and made a hole in it


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ridingmac*
> 
> i made the same thing from a sector 5 2gig DDR3 240pin that busted on me . i cut it in half and made a hole in it


Did the same with an old DDR1 256mb chip that died on me.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ridingmac*
> 
> i made the same thing from a sector 5 2gig DDR3 240pin that busted on me . i cut it in half and made a hole in it


Wait, shouldn't it already have a hole next to the pins? Or am I thinking about DDR/DDR2? Been handling a bit too many machines from 2000 and earlier that have DDR SDRAM, DDR2 VRAM and less than 1GHz so my brain is a bit confused.









I need to disassemble something with DDR3/GDDR5 and more cores than one so I can get back to the future.


----------



## Ridingmac

Here's mine. The small hole in the corner was to close to the edge and was afraid it breaking off

Sent by me


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ridingmac*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine. The small hole in the corner was to close to the edge and was afraid it breaking off
> 
> Sent by me


It did break off for me, after like a week, so I had to drill a new hole in my ddr1 keychain.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ridingmac*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine. The small hole in the corner was to close to the edge and was afraid it breaking off
> 
> Sent by me


----------



## Ridingmac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*


awsome . next processor i get that goes sour im making one of those


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ridingmac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> awsome . next processor i get that goes sour im making one of those
Click to expand...

Hell, I might just do that with one of my spares.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Made one but sprayed Clear coat over it so it will remain smooth...


----------



## DaveLT

Transform a chip out of a dead laptop into matte black keychain


----------



## Blaise170

Since everyone is posting their keychains here, I might as well post mine. I thought I was the only one.









P.S. Kind of funny, I own an AMD machine and stock in the company... Yet I have an Intel lanyard.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

I like this trend.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

How long before a raspberry pi I wonder.
Then a fan
Then an arduino
then a GPU
Then a power supply...


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> How long before a raspberry pi I wonder.
> Then a fan
> Then an arduino
> then a GPU
> Then a power supply...


4p mobo next.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PorkchopExpress*
> 
> check out the sweet heatsink on my 5770, and ya thats authentic intel from my 4670k. fishing line and zip ties holding it on.


Temps?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> 4p mobo next.


Inb4 someone decides to go all nerdy forever 21 with a mitx pc dangling on their neck as theyre jammin in the lan.

Now I wanna do it...


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Inb4 someone decides to go all nerdy forever 21 with a mitx pc dangling on their neck as theyre jammin in the lan.
> 
> Now I wanna do it...


Just found this on Etsy.







But off-topic.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Well, the last time I used a stock cooler on my machine for more than one day (to check if everything is working) was... never, actually.
> 
> Even on my Kabini machine. No aftermarket cooler support? No problem:
> 
> I made my own ghetto bolt-through mounting system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I intend to use that heatsink (Athlon 64 cooler) for passive cooling which is a bit of a... problem. Kabini has a maximum core temperature of 70C but the board starts throttling cores down to make the CPU remain at 64C. It's funny though, the CPU is capable of remaining on 64C indefinitely through some kind of a weird throttling kicking in and leveraging a lot of different frequencies to make the CPU run as fast as it can without exceeding that temp, not even by a 0.1C. I even tried it on it's stock cooler, 4m until it hits 64C and it starts the multiplier dance.
> 
> Whatever AMD built into this thing, it's working bloody good. My guess is they meant to ship it with a passive cooler and built that in to make the CPU work as best as it can without getting too hot (since passive coolers have no fans to kick into overdrive and lower temps). You could just disconnect the CPU fan during an IBT run and it will work just fine, I like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I have a problem - the CPU takes about 25m to hit 64C at 2.0GHz and 1.146V, but I don't want it to throttle. I just can't find a heatsink that's adequate enough for this thing to be used passively without hitting 64C, this is the best heatsink of the 5 I tested.


you HAVE to have active cooling, there is no such thing as GOOD passive cooling, the heat has to be removed other wise the heat the heat sink transfers in to the air lingers. thing get really hot before convection sets in. what you possibly want it to just have an 80-120mm fan near by set to really low or depending on the set up... any fan set to really low.

The best i've seen is No Fen/No Fan, and it's decent and it's also HUGE Nocutua HUGE if not bigger, it has to be, it's shaped like a hampster wheel. it not only heat sinks but, it also has to do it over a larger area to spread the heat out so the heat doesn't concentrate and linger as much/too much.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Inb4 someone decides to go all nerdy forever 21 with a mitx pc dangling on their neck as theyre jammin in the lan.
> 
> Now I wanna do it...












Forget it's there and get up to go get a drink...


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> you HAVE to have active cooling, there is no such thing as GOOD passive cooling, the heat has to be removed other wise the heat the heat sink transfers in to the air lingers. thing get really hot before convection sets in. what you possibly want it to just have an 80-120mm fan near by set to really low or depending on the set up... any fan set to really low.
> 
> The best i've seen is No Fen/No Fan, and it's decent and it's also HUGE Nocutua HUGE if not bigger, it has to be, it's shaped like a hampster wheel. it not only heat sinks but, it also has to do it over a larger area to spread the heat out so the heat doesn't concentrate and linger as much/too much.


Interesting. I was using my AII x2 250 in a full passive mode for over 6months without issue. Something like 45-50°C under peak load.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Interesting. I was using my AII x2 250 in a full passive mode for over 6months without issue. Something like 45-50°C under peak load.


THAT IS INTERESTING!!! That is usually the exception to the rule. I shouldn't say it's impossible but, more often then passive cooling makes for really hot temps specially fi there are no case fans. did you have any case fans? have a 250 helps though, i have 220, and it's running at practically room temp at +100mv and 1ghz overstock, As irony has it, it's being cooled with a TOTALLY hodgepodge ghetto cooler. (active cooling)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1497993/regor-240-average-oc#post_22475411

the 220-250 are some cool running chips. the one in my htpc is lapped with the 1100T cooler also lapped and doesn't seem to break 40-45c under peak load.


----------



## Decade

This is from one of my posts in the Corsair Carbide 540 thread... but it fits the bill of this thread too.

The 5.25" tool less drive bays in the case don't play nice with fan controllers with how the mechanism to "detect" a drive being in that slot is set back where the second set of mounting holes are on a 5.25" drive.

Solution to lock my fan controller in place? Use a ziptie to create pressure between the tool less mechanism and the drive cage itself. Keeps it in place just fine with some play on the opposite end that doesn't have any sort of lock support.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decade*
> 
> This is from one of my posts in the Corsair Carbide 540 thread... but it fits the bill of this thread too.
> 
> The 5.25" tool less drive bays in the case don't play nice with fan controllers with how the mechanism to "detect" a drive being in that slot is set back where the second set of mounting holes are on a 5.25" drive.
> 
> Solution to lock my fan controller in place? Use a ziptie to create pressure between the tool less mechanism and the drive cage itself. Keeps it in place just fine with some play on the opposite end that doesn't have any sort of lock support.


I just removed the tool free clips from my 650D and used screws in the existing holes: four on one side and one on the other side (that's all there were on the other side). That was easier than using a zip tie and has zero play.


----------



## Decade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I just removed the tool free clips from my 650D and used screws in the existing holes: four on one side and one on the other side (that's all there were on the other side). That was easier than using a zip tie and has zero play.


I have to remove half the trim on the Carbide 540 to get the 5.25" bay out in hopes there is a single screw hole on the opposite side... not worth the time when the zip tie took me 5 seconds to think of and "install".


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Decade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I just removed the tool free clips from my 650D and used screws in the existing holes: four on one side and one on the other side (that's all there were on the other side). That was easier than using a zip tie and has zero play.
> 
> 
> 
> I have to remove half the trim on the Carbide 540 to get the 5.25" bay out in hopes there is a single screw hole on the opposite side... not worth the time when the zip tie took me 5 seconds to think of and "install".
Click to expand...

I just took a look at that case and see what you mean. What was Corsair thinking?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> THAT IS INTERESTING!!! That is usually the exception to the rule. I shouldn't say it's impossible but, more often then passive cooling makes for really hot temps specially fi there are no case fans. did you have any case fans? have a 250 helps though, i have 220, and it's running at practically room temp at +100mv and 1ghz overstock, As irony has it, it's being cooled with a TOTALLY hodgepodge ghetto cooler. (active cooling)
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1497993/regor-240-average-oc#post_22475411
> 
> the 220-250 are some cool running chips. the one in my htpc is lapped with the 1100T cooler also lapped and doesn't seem to break 40-45c under peak load.


I ran my L5639 @ 3.6GHz passive testing the deepcool lucifer with max temps of 72C.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I ran my L5639 @ 3.6GHz passive testing the deepcool lucifer with max temps of 72C.


No case fans?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> No case fans?


Yup, None.


----------



## Wihglah




----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> THAT IS INTERESTING!!! That is usually the exception to the rule. I shouldn't say it's impossible but, more often then passive cooling makes for really hot temps specially fi there are no case fans. did you have any case fans? have a 250 helps though, i have 220, and it's running at practically room temp at +100mv and 1ghz overstock, As irony has it, it's being cooled with a TOTALLY hodgepodge ghetto cooler. (active cooling)
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1497993/regor-240-average-oc#post_22475411
> 
> the 220-250 are some cool running chips. the one in my htpc is lapped with the 1100T cooler also lapped and doesn't seem to break 40-45c under peak load.


Only psu fan(which is too far from the cpu cooler and runs at too low rpm to make any airflow) and no back panel.
But the chip was running 1.15Vcore and 0.95 cpu/nb so it was strongly undervolted.
Now I'm running a 965 in a server so I had to put a 80mm fan on the cooler.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Only psu fan(which is too far from the cpu cooler and runs at too low rpm to make any airflow) and no back panel.
> But the chip was running 1.15Vcore and 0.95 cpu/nb so it was strongly undervolted.
> Now I'm running a 965 in a server so I had to put a 80mm fan on the cooler.


that make sens it it has no or very little heat pump in to the air in the first place, it should nice and cool. My friend and I had machine come in work. The customer said it was locking up, it either had no CPU cooler at or or the fan was broken but, long story short we had it on the bench booted in to windows XP with out a CPU cooler and the CPU was only REALLY warm to the touch. It was socket 775 cpu, i think an early core 2 or something in that era.

I have to wonder if that was a golden chip and weather or not it would have clocked well in a decent board with a good cooler.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I don't predict a long future for you here if you keep insulting people like that, not to mention the inaccuracies (among other things) your post is full of.


This.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I don't predict a long future for you here if you keep insulting people like that, not to mention the inaccuracies (among other things) your post is full of.


yep.

as to the question that kicked this off... you might be able to get away with that passive sink if you stick a fan somewhere in the case to move air over it.

otherwise you probably need a heatsink dedicated to being a "passive" heatsink. they do make them. heck my laptop has a passive heatsink... pretty cool... and not much different TDP then that kabini you're trying to cool. I know some people meantioned the nofan, that's a badass sink that will work with serious performance desktop chips... i remember watching a review once on youtube which had it on an overclocked i5-2500k (clocked up to 5.0ghz) running prime95... it actually made it 11 or 12 minutes before it started to temp throttle. mindblowing performance for a fanless sink.

So if you gotta go fanless there certainly are options out there.

In the end though it's probably best to get some very slow spinning fans in a system, something like that Macho HR-02 (which can sorta work fanless) with some very slowly spinning fans "quiet" noctuas would probably be a better "performance" + "low noise" solution then any passive setup. Granted no one is going to get a $50 sink and stick some $20 fans on it to cool a $30 kabini... just saying that there probably is some option out there for you.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azanimefan*
> 
> Granted no one is going to get a $50 sink and stick some $20 fans on it to cool a $30 kabini... just saying that there probably is some option out there for you.


Is that a challenge?







And what laptop is it? I doubt that this actually exists given OEMs' love for using loud-as-jet-engine fans that keep the CPU at a chill 90C when idling.









Even something as simple as a cheap 200mm fan modified to run off 5V should work, and it should be very quiet at worst. Fan noise is white noise anyway, so it will quickly fade into the background. Purely passive systems don't seem like a great idea to me unless the system requires it, since adding a fan or two and doing a quick Molex mod is simple and exponentially increases airflow. They can be done, and it might be worth it for the challenge, but I wouldn't make it a requirement.

My 2 cents, worth 1.7 cents adjusted for inflation.







I wonder if you could get a CPU block with some heatpipes that uses the case itself as a radiator? I vaguely remember reading about one company that tried this, but could not get it to work because of the varying CPU socket positions.


----------



## Steele84

I wish I still had a pic of my drawer laptop/desktop. My screen broke so I took off the screen (via tin snips) and attached a monitor, keyboard and mouse, and threw the laptop in a drawer and boom, conversion!


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDragon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: I think your noise conscious friend is actually deaf...
> 
> 
> 
> I hate passive cooling . Many supporters seem to moan and cry about using fans. Boo Hoo, Is it really that hard to have a rifle bearing fan on? On top of than many of you live in the city where noise is constant anyway. I have cheap cooler master BALL BEARING 5000 rpm fan that when undervolted to 5v and held feet away from my ear can not be heard. And you are worried about system 10-15 ft away? COME ON! Plus if you even bother, with a stick of gum, a bottle of olive oil, a screwdriver, and a straw almost any rifle bearing fans can be ran at full voltage and be nearly silent. You are a bunch of nit picky wuses. I have a friend who is very noise concous and when he heard my main rig with 5 rifle bearing fans and 1 ball bearing fan even he thought it was passive. Passive cooling is a joke. It seems you feel you must under clock your cpu and add some huge heatsink so a teeny in audible 60mm fan doesnt have to be used. And the whole "it saves energy" is nearly irrelevant. Most fans use 1/10th of an amp! And even the in-effecient ones from 2000 are rated at 1/4th of an amp! If you guys really knew anything about passive cooling you would not use cases as they are designed to ISOLATE from the air outside thus not allowing the heat to escape!


Don't you just love other people's opinions?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azanimefan*
> 
> In the end though it's probably best to get some very slow spinning fans in a system, something like that Macho HR-02 (which can sorta work fanless) with some very slowly spinning fans "quiet" noctuas would probably be a better "performance" + "low noise" solution then any passive setup. Granted *no one is going to get a $50 sink and stick some $20 fans on it to cool a $30 kabini...* just saying that there probably is some option out there for you.


I spent more money on dumber things. And speaking of Noctua, do they have any 50mm fans? I know there's an NF-A4 but I need a 50mm for the stock Kabini heatsink. And I love the color scheme of those, would go nicely with the wooden case I have in mind.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I wonder if you could get a CPU block with some heatpipes that uses the case itself as a radiator? I vaguely remember reading about one company that tried this, but could not get it to work because of the varying CPU socket positions.


There are some cases built for that but those have a factory-installed motherboard you can't even remove from the case.

And guys, I already got the system to work passive a while back:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiliops!
> 
> 
> 
> SUCCESS!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100% passive Kabini, not a single fan in the system, I even shut down the PSU fan while praying that cheap POS doesn't blow up. Had to drop down to 1.8GHz and the voltage all the way to 1.056V (1.031V under load) but it has no fans and does not go over 60.5C (been hovering from 60 to 60.5C for 30 minutes). I'm sure I can drop voltage even lower, going for 1.05 was basically "it will work 100% so I'll tweak if necessary".
> 
> And I just beat Biostar! They got that 1.5GHz soldered mobile Kabini systems with a passive cooler that hits 64C within 15 minutes, I instead ran an hour of IBT at 1.8GHz without crossing 61C on this chunk of aluminum I dug out of an old A64 machine and a ghetto bolt-through mounting system made out of two screws, a piece of an aluminum sheet that presses the heatsink down and a cut-up CD case for backplate:


Can we stop beating a dead horse now?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steele84*
> 
> I wish I still had a pic of my drawer laptop/desktop. My screen broke so I took off the screen (via tin snips) and attached a monitor, keyboard and mouse, and threw the laptop in a drawer and boom, conversion!


Woah... Once I finish up the build I am no longer allowed to talk about here, that isn't a bad idea at all. Crack it open, take off the screen, stick it in the desk drawer that never gets used, run a USB hub and mount it somewhere, run a VGA cable to the big monitor, keep the battery maybe and run the power brick to the UPS... Sir, you have given me an excellent idea that will run into a huge number of issues because I, not somebody else, will try to make it happen.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> And guys, I already got the system to work passive a while back:
> ...
> Can we stop beating a dead horse now?


Where is the fun in that? And you said it yourself, it did approach throttling temperatures. Of course, that just means you need a bigger cooler, but still.


----------



## robbo2

Cooling a volt modded GT610


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That's ridiculous!

Everybody knows it's impossible to cool Fermi effectively.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Is that a challenge?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what laptop is it? I doubt that this actually exists given OEMs' love for using loud-as-jet-engine fans that keep the CPU at a chill 90C when idling.


Its an old Acer Aspire 4520; has an AMD Turion 64X2 TL-58, 35W TDP, and yes... they cool it 100% passive. I didn't even know it was passive (had it for 2 years now) till i decided recently to open it up and see if i could figure out why one of the 4 usb ports seems to be dying (figured it was a dust related grounding issue)... i was very surprised to see there was zero dust inside this archaic laptop (especially since here in phoenix you can get dust in ANYTHING in less then 3 days just by leaving it on a desk)... then had my 2nd big surprise and discovered there wasn't a fan in the whole system. Just a funky looking passive cooling solution for the cpu and on board gpu.

sorta cool... looks flimsy and crappy as all hell... but it seems to work.

If i get the motivation i might take a few pictures of their "passive" heatsink in this thing... it doesn't look like it would work... but hey... the laptop works just fine. gets a bit hot at times... but otherwise just fine.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling a volt modded GT610


REALLY!!! I'm interested to hear about the OC and or performance gains.


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> REALLY!!! I'm interested to hear about the OC and or performance gains.


Was for a competition they call a crap card challenge. Was great fun!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Don't you just love other people's opinions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent more money on dumber things. And speaking of Noctua, do they have any 50mm fans? I know there's an NF-A4 but I need a 50mm for the stock Kabini heatsink. And I love the color scheme of those, would go nicely with the wooden case I have in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are some cases built for that but those have a factory-installed motherboard you can't even remove from the case.
> 
> And guys, I already got the system to work passive a while back:
> Can we stop beating a dead horse now?


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Where is the fun in that? And you said it yourself, it did approach throttling temperatures. Of course, that just means you need a bigger cooler, but still.


Actually, that was the initial run, I dropped the voltage to 1.22V (under load) afterwards and got sub-60C temps while running IBT. Even with the CPU and iGPU running 100% it didn't exceed 63.2C.

I still put the stock cooler back on though, I thought for a while and figured that putting this thing into a teeny-tiny 200x200x80mm case would probably make for some throttling. Now waiting for passive aftermarket heatsinks or a bigger one I can ghetto-rig on this thing.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*


I should have expected this.


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling a volt modded GT610


haven't i seen this somewhere before??


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling a volt modded GT610


I may be going out on a limb here but I believe this is the best ghetto cooling mount I have seen









Also Were,yes I believe there is 50mm Noctua and.I think its a slim style too. I'm pretty sure its in the A series family of fans. I'll try to link you to it later if I remember


----------



## Gareth Ward

Both of my 560 Ti's fans have decided to start grinding and making all sorts of silly noises, this thread inspired me to remove the stock fans and stick two 120mm's there instead. Oh my its certainly something, only one has been done so far and it doesn't look too bad, when its in the case.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> Was for a competition they call a crap card challenge. Was great fun!


WOW! Did it boost performance any?


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Am I reading that right? 2800 cas 9? Whoa.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> Was for a competition they call a crap card challenge. Was great fun!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WOW! Did it boost performance any?
Click to expand...

since i see you oc'ed your ram i would like to know how do i get tighter clocks by increasing voltage? I'm using corsair veangance 1866MHz ram


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> since i see you oc'ed your ram i would like to know how do i get tighter clocks by increasing voltage? I'm using corsair veangance 1866MHz ram


Good luck with that one. You CANNOT OC a vengeance kit unless your kit is before 2013


----------



## robbo2

Yeah it's a samsung 2600 C10 kit. You need double sided samsung kits to hit cas9 at those speeds on air.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> since i see you oc'ed your ram i would like to know how do i get tighter clocks by increasing voltage? I'm using corsair veangance 1866MHz ram
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with that one. You CANNOT OC a vengeance kit unless your kit is before 2013
Click to expand...

so far i'm at cas 10 ras to cas 9 ras to precharge 10 tras 27 but i dont know how to get tighter than that. you think water will get me tighter?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> so far i'm at cas 10 ras to cas 9 ras to precharge 10 tras 27 but i dont know how to get tighter than that. you think water will get me tighter?


Like I said Vengeance kits won't OC for the sake of them.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> so far i'm at cas 10 ras to cas 9 ras to precharge 10 tras 27 but i dont know how to get tighter than that. you think water will get me tighter?
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said Vengeance kits won't OC for the sake of them.
Click to expand...

ok i got that but you could still tell me how its done so i know and can decide what to replace rather than continue saying they can't be oc'ed. i am only using my ram as reference but not pursuing oc'ing it after you said it the first time. I want to know the methods involved and the theory behind it. what is the most important value to oc and so on so on.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> ok i got that but you could still tell me how its done so i know and can decide what to replace rather than continue saying they can't be oc'ed. i am only using my ram as reference but not pursuing oc'ing it after you said it the first time. I want to know the methods involved and the theory behind it. what is the most important value to oc and so on so on.


From sandy bridge onwards, don't be too concerned of primary timings like CAS values. These don't impact much performance as much as secondary timings. They are and will open up a new box of tricks but are also tricky to get right (Pandora's box)

A good clocking RAM will do 1 step higher (+266MHz) on box rated CAS-timings. A stick of RAM that WON'T do 1 step higher without loosening the CAS timings are just so-so. Corsair Vengeance is neither of those, they are so tightly binned that ya have to loosen the CAS timings a lot just to go to 1750 from say 1600 on the box. That's hardly +266

Usually loosening the CAS timings is guesswork unless you're very used to overclocking RAM, it hardly affects performance on newer platforms though starting from sandy bridge but it's fantastic if you want to break records on OCN or HWBot
For example 1 step of CAS timings means like say from 9-11-9-28 it is to go to roughly 10-12-10-30. Your RAM maybe able to do 10-12-10-28 if it's good or 10-11-10-28.

tRFC is very important for RAM speed, my old kingston 1600c9 kits had 124 tRFC out of the box the 2133 G.Skill Ripjaws.X i'm borrowing now are 171 tRFC and won't boot at 124 I think. If lowered to 150 and remains stable it will yield better performance scores than tuning the CAS primary timings
Another one is CR, high clocking RAM usually sacrifice this from a 1T to a 2T to get higher speeds.Command Rate (CMD) is the Delay between chip select and command, or the number of clock cycles needed to send data. The performance difference doesn't change much in today's age


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> ok i got that but you could still tell me how its done so i know and can decide what to replace rather than continue saying they can't be oc'ed. i am only using my ram as reference but not pursuing oc'ing it after you said it the first time. I want to know the methods involved and the theory behind it. what is the most important value to oc and so on so on.
> 
> 
> 
> From sandy bridge onwards, don't be too concerned of primary timings like CAS values. These don't impact much performance as much as secondary timings. They are and will open up a new box of tricks but are also tricky to get right (Pandora's box)
> 
> A good clocking RAM will do 1 step higher (+266MHz) on box rated CAS-timings. A stick of RAM that WON'T do 1 step higher without loosening the CAS timings are just so-so. Corsair Vengeance is neither of those, they are so tightly binned that ya have to loosen the CAS timings a lot just to go to 1750 from say 1600 on the box. That's hardly +266
> 
> Usually loosening the CAS timings is guesswork unless you're very used to overclocking RAM, it hardly affects performance on newer platforms though starting from sandy bridge but it's fantastic if you want to break records on OCN or HWBot
> For example 1 step of CAS timings means like say from 9-11-9-28 it is to go to roughly 10-12-10-30. Your RAM maybe able to do 10-12-10-28 if it's good or 10-11-10-28.
> 
> tRFC is very important for RAM speed, my old kingston 1600c9 kits had 124 tRFC out of the box the 2133 G.Skill Ripjaws.X i'm borrowing now are 171 tRFC and won't boot at 124 I think. If lowered to 150 and remains stable it will yield better performance scores than tuning the CAS primary timings
> Another one is CR, high clocking RAM usually sacrifice this from a 1T to a 2T to get higher speeds.Command Rate (CMD) is the Delay between chip select and command, or the number of clock cycles needed to send data. The performance difference doesn't change much in today's age
Click to expand...

So then the goal of the others other than tRFC is to balance for a lower tRFC value with higher speed?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> So then the goal of the others other than tRFC is to balance for a lower tRFC value with higher speed?


Just get tRFC as low as you can without causing errors at a given speed.

Goal of the other CAS timings is not really important in today's RAM


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> So then the goal of the others other than tRFC is to balance for a lower tRFC value with higher speed?
> 
> 
> 
> Just get tRFC as low as you can without causing errors at a given speed.
> 
> Goal of the other CAS timings is not really important in today's RAM
Click to expand...

ok thanks i'm going to buy some new ram when dfone having these babies.


----------



## SlamberGamer

My Ghetto RIG


----------



## Gareth Ward

I thought I'd show you guys some pictures of what I've done, I don't think it looks half bad.



Sorry for the lame camera!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gareth Ward*
> 
> I thought I'd show you guys some pictures of what I've done, I don't think it looks half bad.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the lame camera!


temps?


----------



## Gareth Ward

They hover around 27-31 degrees Idling and when gaming I get around 40-50 so not bad.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlamberGamer*
> 
> My Ghetto RIG
> Not ghetto. Just messy.


----------



## SlamberGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*


i see.. so this is not ghetto.. can i see your so called ghetto rig?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlamberGamer*
> 
> i see.. so this is not ghetto.. can i see your so called ghetto rig?


on this page http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/3000#post_21986554


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SlamberGamer*
> 
> i see.. so this is not ghetto.. can i see your so called ghetto rig?
> 
> 
> 
> on this page http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/3000#post_21986554
Click to expand...

I still want it btw.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Yeah ghettofied's rig is just about as ratchetastic as it gets.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Yeah ghettofied's rig is just about as ratchetastic as it gets.


too bad he won't sell one full tower with dust filters like a tent and 3 mounting points for 240mm rads. asked him for one long ago.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> too bad he won't sell one full tower with dust filters like a tent and 3 mounting points for 240mm rads. asked him for one long ago.


Ah but then its not your ghetto its someone elses, thats like sloppy seconds of computer world man.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> too bad he won't sell one full tower with dust filters like a tent and 3 mounting points for 240mm rads. asked him for one long ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah but then its not your ghetto its someone elses, thats like sloppy seconds of computer world man.
Click to expand...

I didn't say i wanted it to be my ghetto i want a case that fits my rig without costing $350+ like the corsair 900D as you can see here is my current ghetto mod:


----------



## raidmaxGuy

This is how I cool my Radeon X600 Pro inside of my Samba server box. The fan on the GPU cooler is so tiny and the bearings are burnt up. (Mid 2000s Sony Vaio)



Ziptied the fan through one of the riser card screw holes to hold it in this position. It lines up with the ventilation holes on the side panel, so I have the ability to put it back on.


----------



## Pawelr98

I purchased a smartphone(Xperia M C1905) to replace my psp-3004.But of course I had to mod it to have better sound quality.
No otg cable suitable for making a connection ? No problem. I soldered a shorter cable for this purpose.
I'm considering even further modding the phone.
For example a small usb hub for connecting a pendrive at the same time.
But the worst thing is the battery. Even my psp can work longer that this phone.
The biggest problem is that the phone is charging from the usb port so I cannot charge it when using other stuff(like my FiiO for example).
Psp was easier because it could charge from both usb and power connector.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Yeah ghettofied's rig is just about as ratchetastic as it gets.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> too bad he won't sell one full tower with dust filters like a tent and 3 mounting points for 240mm rads. asked him for one long ago.


Aww you're so kind lol thanks, and that sounds like a pretty ballin idea for a case, maybe have a 45 degree angle mounted motherboard and a plank of wood on the other side to make a tent to have the psu in underneath, and mount drives on the wood plank, maybe also do a pcie riser ribbon to mount the card on the plank as well, have a true tent computer!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased a smartphone(Xperia M C1905) to replace my psp-3004.But of course I had to mod it to have better sound quality.
> No otg cable suitable for making a connection ? No problem. I soldered a shorter cable for this purpose.
> I'm considering even further modding the phone.
> For example a small usb hub for connecting a pendrive at the same time.
> But the worst thing is the battery. Even my psp can work longer that this phone.
> The biggest problem is that the phone is charging from the usb port so I cannot charge it when using other stuff(like my FiiO for example).
> Psp was easier because it could charge from both usb and power connector.


you can get a USB OTG Y cable that allows for charging at the same time, or just make one


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> I didn't say i wanted it to be my ghetto i want a case that fits my rig without costing $350+ like the corsair 900D as you can see here is my current ghetto mod:


That pink leopard duct tape is still the best thing on the internets btw


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> you can get a USB OTG Y cable that allows for charging at the same time, or just make one


Where can I find a scheme to solder one ?
I cannot find one to buy so I will have to make one.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Where can I find a scheme to solder one ?
> I cannot find one to buy so I will have to make one.


http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/64065/where-i-can-find-an-usb-dongle-to-connect-two-devices-with-external-power


----------



## BraveSoul

used dremel tool to cut out rails used for mounting 120mm radiators, thus increasing air flow

original condition of the case


----------



## Dyaems

^

Wheres the "ghetto" in that, sir?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> ^
> 
> Wheres the "ghetto" in that, sir?


Agreed, this is not a "show off your nice stuff" thread.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Can I show off my idiot-proof switch then?





It's pretty simple. The toggle must be closed for the power button to do anything, preventing accidental or intentional (and malicious) turning ons or shutting downs. The toggle, I noticed, fit exactly as if it were a motherboard header, and it's just plugged in and can be removed. Also, it's my first successful soldering job, so I think I deserve cookies.


----------



## Dyaems

A banana using as a TIM for your briefcase PC would be ghetto


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> A banana using as a TIM for your briefcase PC would be ghetto


Mayonnaise would be better. I've heard of it actually working for a while.


----------



## Dudewitbow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Mayonnaise would be better. I've heard of it actually working for a while.


things like vegemite, toothpaste and mayo for instance can work for very short periods of time and sometimes even effectively. The problem is the drying out period doesnt bode well for them.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> I didn't say i wanted it to be my ghetto i want a case that fits my rig without costing $350+ like the corsair 900D as you can see here is my current ghetto mod:
> 
> 
> 
> That pink leopard duct tape is still the best thing on the internets btw
Click to expand...

Rofl my fiance is mad at me because i used all her tape. I still am using it because i need screws.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Yeah ghettofied's rig is just about as ratchetastic as it gets.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> too bad he won't sell one full tower with dust filters like a tent and 3 mounting points for 240mm rads. asked him for one long ago.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Aww you're so kind lol thanks, and that sounds like a pretty ballin idea for a case, maybe have a 45 degree angle mounted motherboard and a plank of wood on the other side to make a tent to have the psu in underneath, and mount drives on the wood plank, maybe also do a pcie riser ribbon to mount the card on the plank as well, have a true tent computer!
Click to expand...

I hae some really cool ideals for designs but not the mats or tools.


----------



## hakz

where's the ghetto
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dudewitbow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Mayonnaise would be better. I've heard of it actually working for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> things like vegemite, toothpaste and mayo for instance can work for very short periods of time and sometimes even effectively. The problem is the drying out period doesnt bode well for them.
Click to expand...

true. I've used toothpaste a few months ago for an emergency usage. After two months, I had a hard time removing the hsf, and when I did, the processor itself was stuck to the heatsink! good thing it survived!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Found some old pics lol, a Zalman Z11 I had a long time ago that I mounted a Dell Tablet to lol


----------



## MCCSolutions

Oh and the Wii I installed in our SUV with a 2000watt Power Inverter as well


----------



## mistertime

You mean the ten-year-old P4 rig I had laying on my carpet while I set it up? Or the P4 whose pins I straightened with a X-acto knife? Crap, I need to take more pictures...


----------



## ThijsH

Here are some of my most ghetto fixes.

--1$ harddrive bay array


--Xbox360 fans that I ripped out of a broken 360 and elastic banded onto my case. I had to make a simple circuit to properly direct electricity flow. (pic2)



--Working usb wireless 360 controller receiver that I ripped out of the same 360


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Oh and the Wii I installed in our SUV with a 2000watt Power Inverter as well


Freaking awesome!








Haha the AAFES bag caught my attention before the Wii did ahhaa
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> Here are some of my most ghetto fixes.
> 
> --1$ harddrive bay array
> 
> 
> --Xbox360 fans that I ripped out of a broken 360 and elastic banded onto my case. I had to make a simple circuit to properly direct electricity flow. (pic2)
> 
> 
> 
> --Working usb wireless 360 controller receiver that I ripped out of the same 360


Whoa that's cool!

Can you show a guide how you did the pinout for the fans, and how you did the receiver?

I'm assuming its the same PCB as the one you can buy, does it even download the drivers automatically?


----------



## ThijsH

The wireless receiver doesn't automaticly get identified as receiver as it's missing the device identification host controller chip thing (no idea what that's called). However it just so happens to be almost exactly the same PCB as the seperately sold usb receivers that are like 20 $ and so you can install te driver for it manually in device manager







. Someone made a great guide on how to make one, here:

http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/how-to-make-a-homemade-xbox-360-controller-wireless-receiver-for-pc.668839/

Concerning the fans: they work just like any other pc fan except they have two seperate + inputs and two seperate - outputs, without flow directing diodes. I basicly just soldered some diodes to direct the flow, 1 from power source to fan +, two on both ground connections coming from both fans. The RED and BROWN wires are the positive ones. The BLUE and BLACK
wires are the ground.
I could make a more in depth guide with pictures if you want xD


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> The wireless receiver doesn't automaticly get identified as receiver as it's missing the device identification host controller chip thing (no idea what that's called). However it just so happens to be almost exactly the same PCB as the seperately sold usb receivers that are like 20 $ and so you can install te driver for it manually in device manager
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Someone made a great guide on how to make one, here:
> 
> http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/how-to-make-a-homemade-xbox-360-controller-wireless-receiver-for-pc.668839/
> 
> Concerning the fans: they work just like any other pc fan except they have two seperate + inputs and two seperate - outputs, without flow directing diodes. I basicly just soldered some diodes to direct the flow, 1 from power source to fan +, two on both ground connections coming from both fans. The RED and BROWN wires are the positive ones. The BLUE and BLACK
> wires are the ground.
> I could make a more in depth guide with pictures if you want xD


Yes please pics!


----------



## ThijsH

Allright give me a few minutes


----------



## ThijsH

Here we go:


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> Here are some of my most ghetto fixes.
> 
> --1$ harddrive bay array
> 
> 
> --Xbox360 fans that I ripped out of a broken 360 and elastic banded onto my case. I had to make a simple circuit to properly direct electricity flow. (pic2)
> 
> 
> 
> --Working usb wireless 360 controller receiver that I ripped out of the same 360


YOU CAN DO THAT!? AAWWWWWW MAN! Makes me wish i had kept one of those before i sold my lot of 360 parts. Heck I probably could have installed it INSIDE my HTPC.


----------



## Vario

The 360 fans are Delta brand huh?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> The 360 fans are Delta brand huh?


Aren't all of them delta? AUB0712HHs specifically. These are FDB bearing fans specially for OEM only.


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> YOU CAN DO THAT!? AAWWWWWW MAN! Makes me wish i had kept one of those before i sold my lot of 360 parts. Heck I probably could have installed it INSIDE my HTPC.


That's what tthought too! Well i just messaged someone about picking up some rrod 360s for free









I still don'tknow where to get diodes like that, or howto hook the fans up like that eweek, @ThijsH was kind enough to put a little photo guide, but thats a but above my understanding.

I wonder if there's an easier/cleaner way, and what else i can use those fans for....


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultra-m-a-n*
> 
> That's what tthought too! Well i just messaged someone about picking up some rrod 360s for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still don'tknow where to get diodes like that, or howto hook the fans up like that eweek, @ThijsH was kind enough to put a little photo guide, but thats a but above my understanding.
> 
> I wonder if there's an easier/cleaner way, and what else i can use those fans for....


diodes: http://www.newark.com/semiconductors-discretes


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultra-m-a-n*
> 
> That's what tthought too! Well i just messaged someone about picking up some rrod 360s for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still don'tknow where to get diodes like that, or howto hook the fans up like that eweek, @ThijsH was kind enough to put a little photo guide, but thats a but above my understanding.
> 
> I wonder if there's an easier/cleaner way, and what else i can use those fans for....


that's some what easy stuff, he probably got a free diagram off the internet and hooked a "POT" up to it and made the circuit using a "test board". i didn't know you oculd use those on/off boards off the 360s like that.

Do you plan on repairing the RRODs or just using them for parts? If you plan on on fixing them, i have simple 2 step process that kills 3 birds with 1 stone.


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> that's some what easy stuff, he probably got a free diagram off the internet and hooked a "POT" up to it and made the circuit using a "test board". i didn't know you oculd use those on/off boards off the 360s like that.
> 
> Do you plan on repairing the RRODs or just using them for parts? If you plan on on fixing them, i have simple 2 step process that kills 3 birds with 1 stone.


I don'tknow, probably ripping them apart, I don't have a need for a 360. What did you have in mind?


----------



## Kourin

My GPU was running a bit hot, and I wanted to direct more airflow to it. So, I came up with the bright idea of putting an additional 80mm fan inside the case right at the butt of the GPU, near my case's main intake. How could I attach a fan in such an unusual position? With tape of course!


----------



## RnRollie

TIP OF THE DAY









When you snap a shoelace, don't throw it away. The remaining piece can always come handy to take the strain of a sagging GPU or FullCopper Tower HS away.

(no pix.. its years ago. Might be able to find a pic of the contraption you can make out of a 2000's case shroud/funnel, a TT fan & a Scythe







)


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultra-m-a-n*
> 
> I don'tknow, probably ripping them apart, I don't have a need for a 360. What did you have in mind?


I have a modification, that requires a drill bit and a piece of rubber, it doubles air flow while having the noise of the fans, fixes the motherboard sag and tightens the heat sinks, using all original parts. no x-clamp mod no screws and no washers, all assuming it can be successfully re-flowed.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ultra-m-a-n*
> 
> I don'tknow, probably ripping them apart, I don't have a need for a 360. What did you have in mind?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a modification, that requires a drill bit and a piece of rubber, it doubles air flow while having the noise of the fans, fixes the motherboard sag and tightens the heat sinks, using all original parts. no x-clamp mod no screws and no washers, all assuming it can be successfully re-flowed.
Click to expand...

Oh...kay... How about some details, assuming you aren't yanking our chains?


----------



## ThijsH

Sounds too good to be true, buying information.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Oh...kay... How about some details, assuming you aren't yanking our chains?


If you shim the original X clamp with a properly sized and shaped piece of rubber, it tightens up the heat sinks and the same time extends them out so far supports/shims the mobo too. then the drill bit is for an air intake MS original meant to be installed but, never did, drilling holes in the spot, doubles air flow cuts down on noise.



See that metal mesh... that' all original to the 360 phat. that just happens to be the MOST CRUCIALLY IMPORTANT place to pull cold in because of it's location and the heat sink locations. What happens is the in the original design it's STARVED for fresh air the vent on the side mean NOTHING, so installing these holes make soooooo much easier to pull air the fans don't have to spin as much to get air, so fan noise drops by half and air flow doubles and the heat sinks are tighter so the heat sinks work better so that furthers the lower fan speed. Then you have mobo sitting level, to help with flexing and it's not getting as hot under load so there is less expansion and contraction on the mobo PCB and solder balls.

it makes all the mods with screws and washer and extra fans look bad. I just sat there looking over all the parts and looking at how they worked or were supposed to work on/for a few afters noons for long whiles. As the saying goes Keep It Simple Stupid. (KISS) The simpler it is and the less parts it has means less stuff to break. sure go a head add a fan but, that's more points of failure.


----------



## ThijsH

These fixes seem really plausible.. When I opened up that ol' broken 360 it felt like and air intake was missing in the design. And yeah those X clips are notoriously bad at providing the sinks pressure.

@Ultra-m-a-n
How and where are you getting those 360s from. I'm in need for some more supplimentary heatsinks, fans and more that I could scavenge xD


----------



## Pawelr98

So I repaired this old fujitsu display.I performed few things:

Replaced bad capacitors
Screwdriver+hammer to make bigger ventilation holes,also cutted out few metal parts to improve airflow over power section
Replaced AC power plug with a soldered wire.I don't have any more power cables so I decided to replace it. Now I have a ~3.5m long power cable(which is made from speaker cable and cable from old soldering iron)
No more front panel. It was unnecessary. I just used the wall mount(visible on picture #1) and 4 screws to connect the back frame and display.Normally the front panel holds the display.
This display is like 9years old. I won't let it die. All It needs is replacing caps from time to time.

PS
The wallpaper was smaller than native display resolution.


----------



## SkullTrail

I've owned an H50 for years. I decided the one fan it originally came with was lacking in the airflow department so I bought a pair of Corsair SP120s. Unfortunately the radiator only came with 4 screws for one side and they would not work the way I wanted them to so I went to Home Depot, bought myself a 3/16th screw that was several inches long and starting screwing it in. Works like a charm. It not only holds the two fans, but also to the back of the case. Ghetto, yet perfect.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I repaired this old fujitsu display.I performed few things:
> 
> Replaced bad capacitors
> Screwdriver+hammer to make bigger ventilation holes,also cutted out few metal parts to improve airflow over power section
> Replaced AC power plug with a soldered wire.I don't have any more power cables so I decided to replace it. Now I have a ~3.5m long power cable(which is made from speaker cable and cable from old soldering iron)
> No more front panel. It was unnecessary. I just used the wall mount(visible on picture #1) and 4 screws to connect the back frame and display.Normally the front panel holds the display.
> This display is like 9years old. I won't let it die. All It needs is replacing caps from time to time.
> 
> PS
> The wallpaper was smaller than native display resolution.


i have "old" 32" tv what ounly need's 2-3 new condensator but...

-i don't have condensator's
-my soldering skillz are model "awful"
-tried one's change condensator's to mobo, it taked 30min to take one condensator off from mobo, and i wasn't able to solder new one

now i have 19" lg from trash what i found becose my last 32" tv was dead from circuit or etc (well it was already half-dead tv what i was builded from 2 different tv and those tv circuit's was made 2007 (?)


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> i have "old" 32" tv what ounly need's 2-3 new condensator but...
> 
> -i don't have condensator's
> -my soldering skillz are model "awful"
> -tried one's change condensator's to mobo, it taked 30min to take one condensator off from mobo, and i wasn't able to solder new one
> 
> now i have 19" lg from trash what i found becose my last 32" tv was dead from circuit or etc (well it was already half-dead tv what i was builded from 2 different tv and those tv circuit's was made 2007 (?)


I used 10$ soldering station for this job(one of those china low quality ones). I got few caps from old psu(low quality Logic psu but the caps were in good condition) and ordered the rest of necessary caps(caps are cheap as hell,even high quality panasonic caps are ultra cheap). 30min to de-solder a cap ? Probaly too low temperature(solder with lead requires ~350-400°C,without lead ~250°C) or you really messed up something. I always do it like this:
Heat up one leg,pull the cap from one side, stop heating up the point,now go to second leg,do the same thing that you did to first leg, repeat until the cap goes off.It takes me ~30sec at top to de-solder a cap.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I just desoldered a perfectly good LED from a WiFi card and replaced it with another LED. Why? The new one has wires so I can route it elsewhere, since I won't be able to see it in the build-that-shall-not-be-discussed-in-this-thread. Pictures when said build gets more progress done.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I repaired this old fujitsu display.I performed few things:


Woohoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkullTrail*
> 
> 
> 
> I've owned an H50 for years. I decided the one fan it originally came with was lacking in the airflow department so I bought a pair of Corsair SP120s. Unfortunately the radiator only came with 4 screws for one side and they would not work the way I wanted them to so I went to Home Depot, bought myself a 3/16th screw that was several inches long and starting screwing it in. Works like a charm. It not only holds the two fans, but also to the back of the case. Ghetto, yet perfect.


you're lucky you didn't smash a water channel ... That's not ghetto that's dangerous.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> i have "old" 32" tv what ounly need's 2-3 new condensator but...
> 
> -i don't have condensator's
> -my soldering skillz are model "awful"
> -tried one's change condensator's to mobo, it taked 30min to take one condensator off from mobo, and i wasn't able to solder new one
> 
> now i have 19" lg from trash what i found becose my last 32" tv was dead from circuit or etc (well it was already half-dead tv what i was builded from 2 different tv and those tv circuit's was made 2007 (?)


What's a condensator doing in a LCD?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I used 10$ soldering station for this job(one of those china low quality ones). I got few caps from old psu(low quality Logic psu but the caps were in good condition) and ordered the rest of necessary caps(caps are cheap as hell,even high quality panasonic caps are ultra cheap). 30min to de-solder a cap ? Probaly too low temperature(solder with lead requires ~350-400°C,without lead ~250°C) or you really messed up something. I always do it like this:
> Heat up one leg,pull the cap from one side, stop heating up the point,now go to second leg,do the same thing that you did to first leg, repeat until the cap goes off.It takes me ~30sec at top to de-solder a cap.


350-400C is too much. That's the sort of temperature I use for lead-free
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I just desoldered a perfectly good LED from a WiFi card and replaced it with another LED. Why? The new one has wires so I can route it elsewhere, since I won't be able to see it in the build-that-shall-not-be-discussed-in-this-thread. Pictures when said build gets more progress done.


Oh unicorn. Show or I will kill you!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> What's a condensator doing in a LCD?


Tv's powersupply's condensator's, that tv model type of failure and cause flashing screen until tv is "warmed up"


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Oh unicorn. Show or I will kill you!


It's too dark to take pictures right now. That, and my options are using an actual camera and setting that up, or using my phone and booting my laptop for the first time this month to copy the pictures.

Anybody have advice for removing a monitor's bezels?


----------



## Gareth Ward

I pulled out the fan of a Radeon 5850 and slapped a 3-pin fan connector on it! damn this thing is capable of flight


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gareth Ward*
> 
> I pulled out the fan of a Radeon 5850 and slapped a 3-pin fan connector on it! damn this thing is capable of flight


yeah, they tend to be.... can be especially useful if you apply them in some ducting


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> It's too dark to take pictures right now. That, and my options are using an actual camera and setting that up, or using my phone and booting my laptop for the first time this month to copy the pictures.
> 
> Anybody have advice for removing a monitor's bezels?


When I removed mine I just did it knowing the bezel would be trashed afterwards. I used a flat head screwdriver to pry the seam apart and just ripped the thing off lol.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Oh unicorn. Show or I will kill you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's too dark to take pictures right now. That, and my options are using an actual camera and setting that up, or using my phone and booting my laptop for the first time this month to copy the pictures.
> 
> Anybody have advice for removing a monitor's bezels?
Click to expand...

Remove any screws, take a thin object (flathead with a very thin tip), gently pry apart if plan to use it again. One or all sides might have a couple spots that are recessed where there are clips for easy removal, push in and lift at those spots with the screw driver/flat object; if they're only on one side, once those are un-clipped the bezel should slip right off.


----------



## bhav

SSDs blu talked on top of HDDs:



Guild Wars skill pins stuck to a strip of folded cardboard:



Ugly HDDs successfully concealed.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Classy solution. I like!


----------



## PR-Imagery

Not so sure that is very healthy for the hard drives


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Not so sure that is very healthy for the hard drives


As if SSDs produce much heat if any at all.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

He's referring to the HDDs' restricted airflow. If they're 5900RPM, then it should be fine.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hambone96*
> 
> This isn't really ghetto, but I don't think it fits anywhere else.
> 
> Look what I found at the dump yesterday
> 
> 
> It was a prebuilt hp someone upgraded a little. Phenom II X4 975 BE, 8GB ram, 1TB hard drive, 600w power supply, and a GTX 550 ti.
> 
> Took apart and washed the 550 ti (it smelled like a garbage truck) and reassembled it, works perfect. Washed the 1TB too, works perfect. Have yet to test the other components.
> 
> 
> 
> *Wow a good score.....*
Click to expand...

Made me laugh, only on OCN could the beauty be seen lol


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> too bad he won't sell one full tower with dust filters like a tent and 3 mounting points for 240mm rads. asked him for one long ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah but then its not your ghetto its someone elses, thats like sloppy seconds of computer world man.
Click to expand...

This is why i love this thread. Comments are just as funny as the pics


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> He's referring to the HDDs' restricted airflow. If they're 5900RPM, then it should be fine.


It isn't really restricted in anyway. Just air passing over them is enough to cool them down. That's like saying all Corsair 540s will have overheating HDDs









I often left my 7200rpm in areas with no cooling and they remained at 43C ... in a country with temperatures of 32C


----------



## bhav

They are 5900 RPM drives.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhav*
> 
> SSDs blu talked on top of HDDs:
> 
> 
> 
> Guild Wars skill pins stuck to a strip of folded cardboard:
> 
> 
> 
> Ugly HDDs successfully concealed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Not so sure that is very healthy for the hard drives


I personally feel the drives looked better than the line of pins but that's just my opinion. If bhav thinks the pins looks better, then, for him, they are better. It's his case and he is the one who will have to look at it so its his choice.

Cooling air for the drives will come from the front of the case so the pins are highly unlikely to cause a heating problem. Even if they did, the difference wouldn't be enough to hurt the drives.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Made me laugh, only on OCN could the beauty be seen lol


Yeppers lol


----------



## ThijsH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I repaired this old fujitsu display.I performed few things:
> 
> Replaced bad capacitors
> Screwdriver+hammer to make bigger ventilation holes,also cutted out few metal parts to improve airflow over power section
> Replaced AC power plug with a soldered wire.I don't have any more power cables so I decided to replace it. Now I have a ~3.5m long power cable(which is made from speaker cable and cable from old soldering iron)
> No more front panel. It was unnecessary. I just used the wall mount(visible on picture #1) and 4 screws to connect the back frame and display.Normally the front panel holds the display.
> This display is like 9years old. I won't let it die. All It needs is replacing caps from time to time.
> 
> PS
> The wallpaper was smaller than native display resolution.


Very nice! The ingenuity of this ghetto fix is great. Looks like a great monitor even for a 9 year old one.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> So I repaired this old fujitsu display.I performed few things:
> 
> Replaced bad capacitors
> Screwdriver+hammer to make bigger ventilation holes,also cutted out few metal parts to improve airflow over power section
> Replaced AC power plug with a soldered wire.I don't have any more power cables so I decided to replace it. Now I have a ~3.5m long power cable(which is made from speaker cable and cable from old soldering iron)
> No more front panel. It was unnecessary. I just used the wall mount(visible on picture #1) and 4 screws to connect the back frame and display.Normally the front panel holds the display.
> This display is like 9years old. I won't let it die. All It needs is replacing caps from time to time.
> 
> PS
> The wallpaper was smaller than native display resolution.


Those punched holes are really nice!m How did you get them so uniform?


----------



## depricated

I posted this on /r/techsupportmacgyver a few months back, just came back around here and saw this thread, thought you guys might appreciate it.

Last January I moved into a house I'm renting. My roommate found a computer case in the garage, which had been left by the previous tenant. So we brought it in to see what could be cannibalized. It was empty, but had all the wires for the front panel. So that's cool. My case at the time was terrible. So we sat down and transfered everything into the new case. We get everything hooked up and it won't start. After the initial panic of "what did I break" we decided to test the jumpers with a screwdriver. Sure enough it worked, the power switch was busted. That's probably why it had been abandoned. So we took the wire for the power switch and cut the switch off, seated the end on the jumpers, and verified that the wires were functional and not shorted elsewhere on the line. Well, that would be cumbersome. He had a brilliant idea though. He grabs a swingline stapler and runs the wires to either plate, and verifies that it sends the signal when you click the stapler.

So we used that in place of the power switch. I have since gotten a new PC and gave this one to my more responsible brother for his birthday in April.

The Stapler








and the wiring


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Does it still staple things?


----------



## depricated

It does still work as a stapler, yes, but I didn't use it for that purpose nor does my brother now that he has it.


----------



## Duality92

looks like an Antec 300.


----------



## depricated

That's what Reddit seemed to think too. I never saw a label to name the exact model but it's definitely an Antec, probably correct in 300.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *depricated*
> 
> I posted this on /r/techsupportmacgyver a few months back, just came back around here and saw this thread, thought you guys might appreciate it.
> 
> Last January I moved into a house I'm renting. My roommate found a computer case in the garage, which had been left by the previous tenant. So we brought it in to see what could be cannibalized. It was empty, but had all the wires for the front panel. So that's cool. My case at the time was terrible. So we sat down and transfered everything into the new case. We get everything hooked up and it won't start. After the initial panic of "what did I break" we decided to test the jumpers with a screwdriver. Sure enough it worked, the power switch was busted. That's probably why it had been abandoned. So we took the wire for the power switch and cut the switch off, seated the end on the jumpers, and verified that the wires were functional and not shorted elsewhere on the line. Well, that would be cumbersome. He had a brilliant idea though. He grabs a swingline stapler and runs the wires to either plate, and verifies that it sends the signal when you click the stapler.
> 
> So we used that in place of the power switch. I have since gotten a new PC and gave this one to my more responsible brother for his birthday in April.
> 
> The Stapler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the wiring


Oh! My! Gosh! That is both brilliant and hilarious!


----------



## Duality92

I've owned an Antec 302 before (the 302 has a fan on the back of the motherboard and 140mm on top), unsure about the 300 though. The silver stickers on the fans tell me they're two-cool fans that come stock with the case.


----------



## srSheepdog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *depricated*
> 
> It does still work as a stapler, yes, but I didn't use it for that purpose nor does my brother now that he has it.


Probably because stapling would result in:
Computer on....
Computer off....
Computer on...
Computer off....


----------



## richie_2010

mum comes in while sons on his 8 hr gaming binge:

"son im just using your stapler"
poof pushes down game over
poff again and the comps back on
son just looks at mum and doesn't know if to cry or go into a fit of rage
"mum youve just ruined my game"
mum looks at screen
"what game son your not playing one"
and walks out

oh the thought, if that happened i would be pmsl


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Those punched holes are really nice!m How did you get them so uniform?


Normally those holes had diameter of ~3mm. I just used a fitness weight with a hole in the center(to hold the rest of metal cover in place). Then I was just putting screwdriver in the center of the vent hole. Bang,bang,bang and hole is much bigger.The screwdriver was getting in the hole of fitness weight after getting through metal cover.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> First: modified PCIe card that took about an hour and a half. Why? I have no idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two little solder joints. 90 minutes of desoldering. In my defense, this is my second soldering job that went right, and you've seen the other. I'm going to make a HUD for various activity indicators. Power, hard drive activity, wireless activity, and hopefully a receiving-wall-power status as well.


Ghetto rigging shenanigans: now with more shameless self-advertisement! @DaveLT, you don't have to kill me now.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Not sure if its ghetto or genius lol! I over estimated a cases size and was forced to relocate the PSU..... So I improvised lol


----------



## cravinmild

ha ha seen that case before this .. small world! Like that PSU, like it was on the losing team of a paintball game.









Nice simple idea and looks good


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> ha ha seen that case before this .. small world! Like that PSU, like it was on the losing team of a paintball game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice simple idea and looks good


Ha ha lol yea, saved me alot of time because it already had similar colors and I didn't have to paint or mod it! Its actually a pretty beefy PSU for the price, I think its Seasonic based.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Ghetto rigging shenanigans: now with more shameless self-advertisement! @DaveLT, you don't have to kill me now.


----------



## TheBrowno

Okay enough lurking, time to post my shenanigans:

This is my gaming computer (called Armin) yesterday being pushed into the highest over-clock I could manage (ended up at 4.8GHz):

Note the fans held in with blu-tack and the HDD just abandoned with the PSU.

This is what it normally looks like:

Looks good right? Here's the back:

Yes that Hard drive is held in with more blu-tack and so is that lighting controller (the white box)


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Okay enough lurking, time to post my shenanigans:
> 
> This is my gaming computer (called Armin) yesterday being pushed into the highest over-clock I could manage (ended up at 4.8GHz):
> 
> Note the fans held in with blu-tack and the HDD just abandoned with the PSU.
> 
> This is what it normally looks like:
> 
> Looks good right? Here's the back:
> 
> Yes that Hard drive is held in with more blu-tack and so is that lighting controller (the white box)


Nice and welcome to OCN! Also thanks for your input on my review it is much appreciated!


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*


XFX Radeon 7770 Core Edition with Ghost cooling technology (aka, a slab of aluminum and a nice-looking shroud), I'd recognize it from a mile away. Too bad mine can't go over 1065/1250 without crashing games, hope you at least had better luck with it, I'll have to volt-mod the bloody thing just to get a stable 10% overclock.









And holy pug in a pizza box! 4.8GHz on a stock cooler without a VRM fan!


----------



## STIguy312

Until I put a heat gun to the tubing and get it to relax. At the moment the tubing is stressing the GPU PCB.


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> XFX Radeon 7770 Core Edition with Ghost cooling technology (aka, a slab of aluminum and a nice-looking shroud), I'd recognize it from a mile away. Too bad mine can't go over 1065/1250 without crashing games, hope you at least had better luck with it, I'll have to volt-mod the bloody thing just to get a stable 10% overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And holy pug in a pizza box! 4.8GHz on a stock cooler without a VRM fan!


OK 4.8*









*2 cores disabled and it was a suicide run (stable ~3 mins)
I have proof though: http://valid.canardpc.com/ncjd0q

Day to day I run it at 4.4 and the GPU at 1100.

What's the volt mod you can do to them?


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> OK 4.8*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2 cores disabled and it was a suicide run (stable ~3 mins)
> I have proof though: http://valid.canardpc.com/ncjd0q
> 
> Day to day I run it at 4.4 and the GPU at 1100.
> 
> What's the volt mod you can do to them?


Ah, that explains it, I thought you're one of the crazy guys running fully-enabled 5GHz CPUs on the stock cooler.









As for volt-modding, you basically get the voltage controller to send more volts to the GPU/VRAM modules by lowering the resistance between the voltage chipset feedback pin and ground lead (as far as I understand). I'll first try it on an old 5570 before doing it on my 7770 but so far I didn't have time to do any of those. Ah well, I'll get to that one of these days, will post a how-to in the volt-modding section afterwards as well.









Anyhow, gotta post something on-topic - My 5570 was sagging on the AM1I-A due to a X4 PCI-E slot length, I hate those open-end X4 slots. So...





I fixed it.


----------



## RnRollie

bzzzrrrtt,bzzzrrrtt
-"Hello? Oh, hi mom"
-"What's that noise? Are you blowdrying your hair?"
-"No mom, i've put my phone as support for my video card in my PC"
-"................ *sigh*, I could have given you up for adoption you know"


----------



## STIguy312

Im still working from page 25 of this thread. Seeing how quickly I can get through it lol


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> bzzzrrrtt,bzzzrrrtt
> -"Hello? Oh, hi mom"
> -"What's that noise? Are you blowdrying your hair?"
> -"No mom, i've put my phone as support for my video card in my PC"
> -"................ *sigh*, I could have given you up for adoption you know"


One time I did put the wrong phone in there when that 5570 was in my old machine, played around with phone cases and switched them around. Ended up disassembling the PC a few hours later to figure out why the hell is it buzzing.









And I still use a 3310 (not the one in the PC though), best phone ever.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> One time I did put the wrong phone in there when that 5570 was in my old machine, played around with phone cases and switched them around. Ended up disassembling the PC a few hours later to figure out why the hell is it buzzing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I still use a 3310 (not the one in the PC though), best phone ever.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*


----------



## cravinmild

Now there is a mod to do. Old Motorola phones from back in the day ( the ones half the length of your arm) gutted and a modern phones innards placed inside. Nostalgia at its finest.


----------



## bhav

Would cellotape fix this?



I'm getting a free replacement sent to me, the leds on it still work, so just tape it up and hopefully it will be fine.


----------



## Werne

Electrical tape is best for that if you plan to use it long-term, sellotape would work as a short-term solution but it becomes crap after some time and stops holding.


----------



## bhav

Ok. I'll buy some off amazon.

This was cheap, and 2 rolls (1 roll was 90p):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/2x-PVC-Electrical-Insulation-Tape/dp/B005LBFF0S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1405447398&sr=8-10&keywords=electrical+tape


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Electrical tape is best for that if you plan to use it long-term, sellotape would work as a short-term solution but it becomes crap after some time and stops holding.


Nah, duct tape + a matchstick for re-inforcement .. remember the forum section you're in









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhav*
> 
> Ok. I'll buy some off amazon.
> 
> This was cheap, and 2 rolls (1 roll was 90p):
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/2x-PVC-Electrical-Insulation-Tape/dp/B005LBFF0S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1405447398&sr=8-10&keywords=electrical+tape


No B&Q around the corner?


----------



## bhav

Amazon quickest.


----------



## azanimefan

Did you try out the PSU? That PSU looked alright


----------



## bhav

Huh my new Antec? Yes its installed and working great. That pic was just a £5 LED strip though. Still functional, just torn. So I end up with 3 for the price of 2


----------



## ThijsH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> 
> 
> I fixed it.


lmao. Best fix ever.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Okay enough lurking, time to post my shenanigans:
> 
> This is my gaming computer (called Armin) yesterday being pushed into the highest over-clock I could manage (ended up at 4.8GHz):
> 
> Note the fans held in with blu-tack and the HDD just abandoned with the PSU.
> 
> This is what it normally looks like:
> 
> Looks good right? Here's the back:
> 
> Yes that Hard drive is held in with more blu-tack and so is that lighting controller (the white box)


God, it's so blue, it's almost tacky

see what i did there?


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ha ha lol yea, saved me alot of time because it already had similar colors and I didn't have to paint or mod it! Its actually a pretty beefy PSU for the price, I think its Seasonic based.


as the guy on eev blog says dont turn it on pull it apart first


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> God, it's so blue, it's almost tacky
> 
> see what i did there?


I'll have you know that's an RGB LED strip and I can have any colour you want!


----------



## Sweetie Bot

I feel this image speaks for itself.

(Now includes hotswap HDD bay)


----------



## cravinmild

Its like a easy bake oven. How long till the corn dog is done


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhav*
> 
> Would cellotape fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting a free replacement sent to me, the leds on it still work, so just tape it up and hopefully it will be fine.


clear silicone, just a drop then lay it level so the cut "closes", let it cure for 24 hours.


----------



## Werne

Finally volt-modded my 7770's GPU, using the most advanced volt-modding tool the world has ever seen...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





A pencil! If this ain't ghetto, I don't know what is.











Pushed up from 1065MHz, currently running at 1125MHz on the core and it's at 42m of Unigine Valley right now. I'll let Valley run for another hour or two and then I'll be going for 1150MHz. Screw the lack of software voltage control, I can voltmod!


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Finally volt-modded my 7770's GPU, using the most advanced volt-modding tool the world has ever seen...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pencil! If this ain't ghetto, I don't know what is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pushed up from 1065MHz, currently running at 1125MHz on the core and it's at 42m of Unigine Valley right now. I'll let Valley run for another hour or two and then I'll be going for 1150MHz. Screw the lack of software voltage control, I can voltmod!


So where does the pencil fit in the build? Let's see it in that case of yours, my eyes are itching for the goodness.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> So where does the pencil fit in the build? Let's see it in that case of yours, my eyes are itching for the goodness.


I just used it to shade the FB resistor and drop it's resistance to allow for more GPU voltage (I think the card pumps close to 1.3V now







). That pencil is actually held by a rubber band in the 3.5" bay, pressing my SSD against the bay tray since I have no 2.5" mounts.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sweetie Bot*
> 
> I feel this image speaks for itself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Now includes hotswap HDD bay)


Now that's a LAN party head turner right there.


----------



## Steele84

Ghetto SSD mount!






Oh Yeah!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quite inefficient. You could fit an SSD inside the box too!


----------



## bhav

Or just stack them on top of the HDD with blu tak.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Not impressed...

I'd be impressed if you had one inside the box, one on the top of the box, one stuck to the bottom of the box, and one stuck to the HDD.


----------



## Steele84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Not impressed...
> 
> I'd be impressed if you had one inside the box, one on the top of the box, one stuck to the bottom of the box, and one stuck to the HDD.


Buy me 4 more and I'll make it happen!


----------



## Blaise170

Might have to ghetto rig a fix for Logitech audio system... Hopefully it works.


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Finally volt-modded my 7770's GPU, using the most advanced volt-modding tool the world has ever seen...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pencil! If this ain't ghetto, I don't know what is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pushed up from 1065MHz, currently running at 1125MHz on the core and it's at 42m of Unigine Valley right now. I'll let Valley run for another hour or two and then I'll be going for 1150MHz. Screw the lack of software voltage control, I can voltmod!


Could you post some pics of your modifications to the card, or if there is a guide or something you used that would be great Thx Werne


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Could you post some pics of your modifications to the card, or if there is a guide or something you used that would be great Thx Werne


I posted bare-bones instructions here, it's rather simple but it's also rather risky, mess up the measurements, go too far or slip with the pencil and you'll fry the card. Hell, you can fry the card even if you do everything by the book, power delivery on these is not all that great. I went for high voltage for HWBOT submissions (reached 1450 on the core) but the noise and near 90C temps weren't worth it so I reverted down to only 3%. Just make sure you have a APW7098 voltage controller first, I marked it on the pics there.

Do note that I didn't check core voltage at all, currently I just shaded the resistor to drop it's resistance by 3% and checked load temps. I got no idea what my core voltage is at the moment, but temps went up only 4C at the same clock so I'm guessing not all that high. I don't have a PCI-E riser at the moment so I can't have the card laid out on a test bench for voltage measurements, and my Mugen 4 is in the way of multimeter leads without the riser. Granted, I might fry the card this way, but it's all in the name of science.


----------



## TheBrowno

thanks, although I would need to find away to bypass the CCC overclock limits to attempt this.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> thanks, although I would need to find away to bypass the CCC overclock limits to attempt this.


Use Afterburner with an unofficial overclocking mode enabled.









And if you have issues with the card, modify VBIOS. It's locked to 88W (106W max with +20% power limit) so it might throttle the card (or worse, crash the driver) if you hit the limit. I upped mine to 120W and 96/144 lower/upper limits a long time ago since it was screwing with me when running benchmarks, you can also tweak CCC frequency limits there as well.

Do note that while VBIOS modding basically gives you unlimited power over the card, modifying the VBIOS checksum afterwards to match stock VBIOS checksum is a pain in the arse, and even a tiny slip-up can brick the card. It demands a lot of caution and a lot of patience.


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> even a tiny slip-up can brick the card. It demands a lot of caution and a lot of patience.


Been there done that, unbricking it again was... interesting, hurray for BOIS backups \o/

Anyway we will be yelled at for being off topic soon


----------



## ThijsH

Some gfx cards have overvoltage failsafes built into the voltage modulators, preventing damage even if you do a voltmod. So you won't always brick your card if you overvolt it. One of my old cards had something similar in its memory voltcontroller.

which went something like this:

if FeedbackV =/= Vinput then change to match
but if FeedbackV = too different from Vout (seperate Voltmonitor loop) then shut down

hope that makes sense.. xD


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> Been there done that, unbricking it again was... interesting, hurray for BOIS backups \o/
> 
> Anyway we will be yelled at for being off topic soon


----------



## Blaise170

I think anything that involves a zip tie should qualify for ghetto-rigging.


----------



## Simmons572

It took me a moment there to find exactly what was ziptied there









Not a bad idea


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I think anything that involves a zip tie should qualify for ghetto-rigging.


Nonsense. There are quite a lot of proffesional applications for zip ties. It depends how use them. Mounting an ssd that way though is on the ghetto side


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Nonsense. There are quite a lot of proffesional applications for zip ties. It depends how use them. Mounting an ssd that way though is on the ghetto side


Joined two cases using zip ties ... and a recent train track temporary repair in my country involved zip ties :X


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> ...a recent train track temporary repair in my country involved zip ties :X
> 
> 
> 
> Now, that's just scary!
Click to expand...


----------



## animal0307

Hey now... That's a missquote... I'd fix it but my phone doesn't like editing threads and coding.

I don't see zip ties holding up to a train. They must have been used on some sore of signaling or wiring repair


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Hey now... That's a missquote... I'd fix it but my phone doesn't like editing threads and coding.
> 
> I don't see zip ties holding up to a train. They must have been used on some sore of signaling or wiring repair


I'm not kidding.

https://sg.news.yahoo.com/cable-ties-failed-to-secure-rail-claws.html
http://www.mrbrown.com/blog/2012/05/shocking-news-mrt-rail-claws-dislodge-despite-cable-ties.html
http://news.asiaone.com/News/AsiaOne+News/Singapore/Story/A1Story20111220-317151.html


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I'm not kidding.
> 
> https://sg.news.yahoo.com/cable-ties-failed-to-secure-rail-claws.html
> http://www.mrbrown.com/blog/2012/05/shocking-news-mrt-rail-claws-dislodge-despite-cable-ties.html
> http://news.asiaone.com/News/AsiaOne+News/Singapore/Story/A1Story20111220-317151.html


holy crap! hahaha "special industrial cable ties"


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Nonsense. There are quite a lot of proffesional applications for zip ties. It depends how use them. Mounting an ssd that way though is on the ghetto side


Yes of course, especially when wiring for IT. I guess I misspoke.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Hey now... That's a missquote... I'd fix it but my phone doesn't like editing threads and coding.
> 
> I don't see zip ties holding up to a train. They must have been used on some sore of signaling or wiring repair


I busted the mounting welds of a front strut on my E36 M 4-door...Zip-tied it to the chassis and drove a lil' over 40 miles @ freeway speeds on it to get home.

On another occasion... We had the roof of one of my car ports @ the shop rip completely off during a storm (last yr) they wanted $1800 to replace it, so I went down a bought an industrial "tarp" (12mil thick) and "Zip-tied" it down to the frame. The next week we had another "high wind" type storm roll in . I drove down to the shop to check if it held-up....ended up pulling the posts completely out of the concrete...Tarp and zip-ties still in "new" condition; but the entire carport was on it's side with about 2ft worth of concrete still attached to the posts. lol









You'd be surprised just how bada$$ zip-ties can be


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I'm not kidding.
> 
> https://sg.news.yahoo.com/cable-ties-failed-to-secure-rail-claws.html
> http://www.mrbrown.com/blog/2012/05/shocking-news-mrt-rail-claws-dislodge-despite-cable-ties.html
> http://news.asiaone.com/News/AsiaOne+News/Singapore/Story/A1Story20111220-317151.html


"Look, down on the rails!"

"It's a cow!"

"It's a train!"

"It's... Ghettoman!"



Saving people's lives, one zip-tie at a time.









By the way, pardon my poor editing job, it's the best I could do in 10 minutes.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> I'm not kidding.
> 
> https://sg.news.yahoo.com/cable-ties-failed-to-secure-rail-claws.html
> http://www.mrbrown.com/blog/2012/05/shocking-news-mrt-rail-claws-dislodge-despite-cable-ties.html
> http://news.asiaone.com/News/AsiaOne+News/Singapore/Story/A1Story20111220-317151.html
> 
> 
> 
> "Look, down on the rails!"
> 
> "It's a cow!"
> 
> "It's a train!"
> 
> "It's... Ghettoman!"
> 
> 
> 
> Saving people's lives, one zip-tie at a time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, pardon my poor editing job, it's the best I could do in 10 minutes.
Click to expand...

You might just say that it's a...










... Ghetto-Shop.


----------



## Willi

PLEASE someone photoshop a duct-tape belt on that ghettoman... and give him a WD-40 ray or something XD


----------



## cravinmild

Naaaa

Give him a whole tool belt of Ghetto Goodness. Zip ties, duct tape, Dremel, book to prop things up with and don't forget a few sheets of cardboard


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Naaaa
> 
> Give him a whole tool belt of Ghetto Goodness. Zip ties, duct tape, Dremel, book to prop things up with and don't forget a few sheets of cardboard


Replace the Dremel with tin snips and you're golden.


----------



## cravinmild

sorry my bad.

your suggestion was much better


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> PLEASE someone photoshop a duct-tape belt on that ghettoman... and give him a WD-40 ray or something XD


Superman had laser vision yeah? So Ghettoman can have ghetto-vision - he shoots WD-40 from his eyes!


----------



## Dyaems

WD40 is not a ghetto solution, it should be saliva


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> WD40 is not a ghetto solution, it should be saliva


But that doesn't work for ghetto vision.


----------



## cravinmild

It would if he spit it out his eye


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> It would if he spit it out his eye


in liquid streams.


----------



## ThatOneNewGuy

You guys have way to much fun in this thread.









Now please gimme some more ghetto content.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

There is no such thing as too much fun; the only limit is how much can you handle?


----------



## TiezZ BE




----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> But that doesn't work for ghetto vision.


The ghetto vision should be the power of seeing the easiest solution for any problem. Kinda like if SuperGhettoMan saw a broken bridge and people screaming for his life he can use his ghetto vision to know where put a few zip ties and some duct tape to fix the bridge (for a moment at least) and save the day.


----------



## Werne

Alright, I'll refine Ghettoman when I have some spare time. In the meantime, here's the most used ghetto invention of mine, an ugly 25pcs CD box:



An ordinary CD box? Nope. It's murky for a reason, took me an hour and some sandpaper to make it that way. This one stands on my right hand side and there's another same kind of case on the other side. Those form LED music boxes, reacting to electrical impulses sent from a "surround" connector on my mobo over an NPN transistor, they're basically flashing in the rhythm of music (for those who don't know what an LED music box is). I built one for each channel, each box housing 6 blue LED diodes connected in series and powered through an 18V adapter over the aforementioned NPN transistor. Here it is fired up:



Total cost is, well $0. I took the diodes out of old electronic scraps and the boxes are dug out of trash. Even the wiring is free, ripped out of some old set of $4 PC speakers, and the adapter is a charger from a battery-powered vacuum cleaner I got from a guy I know.

By the way, these look just beautiful when I turn the light off and play some music, they can light up my entire room when the bass kicks in. Not so beautiful for the epileptic though.


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Alright, I'll refine Ghettoman when I have some spare time. In the meantime, here's the most used ghetto invention of mine, an ugly 25pcs CD box:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An ordinary CD box? Nope. It's murky for a reason, took me an hour and some sandpaper to make it that way. This one stands on my right hand side and there's another same kind of case on the other side. Those form LED music boxes, reacting to electrical impulses sent from a "surround" connector on my mobo over an NPN transistor, they're basically flashing in the rhythm of music (for those who don't know what an LED music box is). I built one for each channel, each box housing 6 blue LED diodes connected in series and powered through an 18V adapter over the aforementioned NPN transistor. Here it is fired up:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Total cost is, well $0. I took the diodes out of old electronic scraps and the boxes are dug out of trash. Even the wiring is free, ripped out of some old set of $4 PC speakers, and the adapter is a charger from a battery-powered vacuum cleaner I got from a guy I know.
> 
> By the way, these look just beautiful when I turn the light off and play some music, they can light up my entire room when the bass kicks in. Not so beautiful for the epileptic though.


Love it! Great idea for some ligting near my computer after i had to make adjustments to my desk and lost my old lights.

Also since were in DIY electronics I just hooked this up to molex + internal USB connector. It's an arduino based fully programmable controller for some LED strip to put somewhere around the case (haven't decided yet). The great thing is i control it by programming and uploading directly on the computer. so no need to open the case once it's fully installed.






Also check out my ghetto-waterloop with the reservoir and pump sitting on some foam in the middle of the desk cause it was too big to fit inside until I get an SFX PSU


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Love it! Great idea for some ligting near my computer after i had to make adjustments to my desk and lost my old lights.
> 
> Also since were in DIY electronics I just hooked this up to molex + internal USB connector. It's an arduino based fully programmable controller for some LED strip to put somewhere around the case (haven't decided yet). The great thing is i control it by programming and uploading directly on the computer. so no need to open the case once it's fully installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also check out my ghetto-waterloop with the reservoir and pump sitting on some foam in the middle of the desk cause it was too big to fit inside until I get an SFX PSU


I see your flashing LEDs to music and raise you a 32 bit sound reactive light.


----------



## cravinmild

jezzz, how does your guys brains not just explode with all those good ideas


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> jezzz, how does your guys brains not just explode with all those good ideas


Selective absorption.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Alright, I'll refine Ghettoman when I have some spare time. In the meantime, here's the most used ghetto invention of mine, an ugly 25pcs CD box:
> 
> 
> 
> An ordinary CD box? Nope. It's murky for a reason, took me an hour and some sandpaper to make it that way. This one stands on my right hand side and there's another same kind of case on the other side. Those form LED music boxes, reacting to electrical impulses sent from a "surround" connector on my mobo over an NPN transistor, they're basically flashing in the rhythm of music (for those who don't know what an LED music box is). I built one for each channel, each box housing 6 blue LED diodes connected in series and powered through an 18V adapter over the aforementioned NPN transistor. Here it is fired up:
> 
> 
> 
> Total cost is, well $0. I took the diodes out of old electronic scraps and the boxes are dug out of trash. Even the wiring is free, ripped out of some old set of $4 PC speakers, and the adapter is a charger from a battery-powered vacuum cleaner I got from a guy I know.
> 
> By the way, these look just beautiful when I turn the light off and play some music, they can light up my entire room when the bass kicks in. Not so beautiful for the epileptic though.





Should water proof and tap it and turn it into a Res.


----------



## Dyaems

Any brave soul tried _ghetto_-rigging a custom loop?

PVC pipes and fittings, plumbing tape to prevent leaks, maybe throw in a faucet for a drain pipe... something to use for reservoir... anything...


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Any brave soul tried _ghetto_-rigging a custom loop?
> 
> PVC pipes and fittings, plumbing tape to prevent leaks, maybe throw in a faucet for a drain pipe... something to use for reservoir... anything...


When I told a colleague about water cooling he suggested buying randopm parts from alibaba to save money. I did not dare to go with his idea


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Any brave soul tried _ghetto_-rigging a custom loop?
> 
> PVC pipes and fittings, plumbing tape to prevent leaks, maybe throw in a faucet for a drain pipe... something to use for reservoir... anything...


that is EXACTLY how it was done +10 years ago









But you should dig into the archives of some boards
the ProCooling board is one of the oldest sites that "went there" in a big way, lots of engineers visiting/discussing

Some of the old sites are defunct now, so its become harder to find "good old times" examples, but VonSlatt is still doing his creative tinkering http://vonslatt.com/proj-cc.shtml

While some of the oldest "build logs" are pre-google era, don't limit the search to PC or O/C boards... found this on the LADA (uk) board : http://www.lada.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12197

And with some creativity, you can do this: http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/124677-how-to-cool-a-pc-with-toilet-water


----------



## Maticb

Well, this was my PC around the beggining of 2012









5770 crossfired. Got the second one for 60€what can I say, at the time it was worth it.



Mind the top hole I cut out for the 120 fan








And of course professional cable managment. With sound dampening ripped from the box of my motherboard for the fan (that helped a HUGE deal trust me)

The cables are actualy not that bad they were out of the way for the front fans, mostly outside or the side of the case, as you can see them tied to the side. I obviously couldn't attach the sidepanel it was off the entire time.


----------



## blooder11181




----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Any brave soul tried _ghetto_-rigging a custom loop?
> 
> PVC pipes and fittings, plumbing tape to prevent leaks, maybe throw in a faucet for a drain pipe... something to use for reservoir... anything...


That's how all water loops were done back around 2000... hell my ONLY 3 water loops (i'm including one i built for a friend) were built like this. The one i built for my friend is STILL in use. That one is freakin' awesome. when i get back to buffalo some time i'll have to take a picture of it. it's wild.

We used an old water heater as a res, a old boat bilge pump as the pump... copper piping from the garage up to the room with the pc. and a pair of wall attachments like you'd use for a washing machine... to allow him to plug the water loop into the pc. He's since replaced the homemade water blocks with custom ones, but the whole loop still is hooked up that that monstrosity. going on 11 years of use now. I think he replaced the bilge pump 2 or 3 years in with something meant to run 24/7... otherwise it's still kicking.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I have successfully powered a motherboard with an R/C car battery. Now to try the monitor!

I wouldn't call it ghetto if I hadn't used the last of my e-tape.







Ran out of heat shrink tubing.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azanimefan*
> 
> We used an old water heater as a res, a old boat bilge pump as the pump... copper piping from the garage up to the room with the pc. and a pair of wall attachments like you'd use for a washing machine... to allow him to plug the water loop into the pc. He's since replaced the homemade water blocks with custom ones, but the whole loop still is hooked up that that monstrosity. going on 11 years of use now. I think he replaced the bilge pump 2 or 3 years in with something meant to run 24/7... otherwise it's still kicking.


Reminds me of my first (and only) water cooling system I built, a friend of mine wanted it so I thought what the hell, can't be all that complicated.

There was a milk jug as a reservoir, car fuel lines as tubing, a tube with surgical clamps closing it at the end as a drain pipe, a submersible aquarium pump, radiator from a motorbike and a CPU block made out of a cut-up old socket A heatsink on which I put some plastic box and sealed the thing with plumbing silicone. Used screws that were drilled through as fittings, wrapped them up in teflon tape, screwed them in place then tightened them further with nuts to make sure they don't leak, and the tubes were secured to those with hose clamps.

It actually worked surprisingly well for a bunch of random crap with tubes sticking out of it.


----------



## vaporizer

i cut a 480 rad filter in half for each side of my HAF XB. stupid desert dust. turns out i was short by an inch on both sides. i love my Gorilla tape.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vaporizer*
> 
> i cut a 480 rad filter in half for each side of my HAF XB. stupid desert dust. turns out i was short by an inch on both sides. i love my Gorilla tape.


Gorilla tape is always FTW. Probably the most useful thing for ghetto mods. And it genuinely is better them normal duct tape.


----------



## vaporizer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Gorilla tape is always FTW. Probably the most useful thing for ghetto mods. And it genuinely is better them normal duct tape.


and it comes in the same color as my case. i can't even see it when im looking for it on my case.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Chilled RIVBE Deskputer .

Used 1/2' dia 2' long long copper pipe inside the 1/2' 3/4' hose to so it can fit inside a 3/4 hose from chiller . Then double hose clamped it with spare hose clamps for my Lexus


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Chilled RIVBE Deskputer .
> 
> Used 1/2' dia 2' long long copper pipe inside the 1/2' 3/4' hose to so it can fit inside a 3/4 hose from chiller . Then double hose clamped it with spare hose clamps for my Lexus


djeezes, how do you do it... ?
the noise inthere must be close to newbies-giving-it-a-go-day in Rawlinna


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Yes its noisy BUT 5.2Ch double 10' subs and a lot of speakers sorts it








Oh yeah the A/C on as well is a lttle too noisy


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Yes its noisy BUT 5.2Ch double 10' subs and a lot of speakers sorts it


There's a guy in my country who builds phase change coolers on request. He managed to build a *quiet* cascade phase change.He also builds water chillers.I used to watch his every build log.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> There's a guy in my country who builds phase change coolers on request. He managed to build a *quiet* cascade phase change.He also builds water chillers.I used to watch his every build log.


Shame I don't know him and shame he don't live here neither


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Shame I don't know him and shame he don't live here neither


Ryba and _bartx build such phase change coolers.
And the cost is about 1/4 of prebuild one.


----------



## chaoscontrol

How can you people live with yourselves. :'(


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Any brave soul tried _ghetto_-rigging a custom loop?
> 
> PVC pipes and fittings, plumbing tape to prevent leaks, maybe throw in a faucet for a drain pipe... something to use for reservoir... anything...


This is my current res for my dual rad nodded H50. Extra ghetto because I couldn't find my PVC glue and its held together with gorilla glue, hot glue and electrical tape. In the end I should have just bought more PVC glue *facepalm*


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> How can you people live with yourselves. :'(


We survive by realizing that often times our ghetto-rigging solutions far outlast the solutions you can purchase.


----------



## Zebeyo

So I was in the proces of ghettorigging a fan for my desk since it's hot as ****. I made a mistake and connected 12v to the tacho output pin, now my fan is dead. Any way to save it?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> So I was in the proces of ghettorigging a fan for my desk since it's hot as ****. I made a mistake and connected 12v to the tacho output pin, now my fan is dead. Any way to save it?


IIRC only the fan tach output will be dead ... not the entire fan.  (I actually accidentally did the same thing while wiring up a bunch of fans)


----------



## Zebeyo

Hmm my fan is dead-dead.

And being a proper scientist I decided to do a control sample, so I wired up a cheap 80mm led fan the same way - for science - and that is dead too....









Edit: Disregard that I was being a poor scientist and somehow ****ed up wiring up the fans correctly. See the first one has all-silver cables and one of them has a black line, so i assumed that to be ground. Turns out it wasnt. So when i hooked it up correctly it worked. I'm just confused about my control 80mm that also "died" and my control-control 80mm that i didn't give 12v on the tacho and it works, but i think it connected that wrongly then.

Seriously this is why I am not working in research, but in applied science instead.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> How can you people live with yourselves. :'(


Well, I make a little clay banana to honor the sacrifice of every banana peel I used to insulate wires. It makes me sleep better at night.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Hmm my fan is dead-dead.
> 
> And being a proper scientist I decided to do a control sample, so I wired up a cheap 80mm led fan the same way - for science - and that is dead too....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Disregard that I was being a poor scientist and somehow ****ed up wiring up the fans correctly. See the first one has all-silver cables and one of them has a black line, so i assumed that to be ground. Turns out it wasnt. So when i hooked it up correctly it worked. I'm just confused about my control 80mm that also "died" and my control-control 80mm that i didn't give 12v on the tacho and it works, but i think it connected that wrongly then.
> 
> Seriously this is why I am not working in research, but in applied science instead.


On the contrary, this is exactly why you should be working in research. If researchers never made "mistakes", we wouldn't have many of our inventions.


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> On the contrary, this is exactly why you should be working in research. If researchers never made "mistakes", we wouldn't have many of our inventions.


I guess you have a point









Anyway all fans are working (haven't checked tacho's though) and I moved on in my project. Ran into another problem though: Out of solder. Will have to get more tomorrow.


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> IIRC only the fan tach output will be dead ... not the entire fan.  (I actually accidentally did the same thing while wiring up a bunch of fans)


so thats why my 92mm San Ace fans does not do PWM anymore, lol. when I bought the fans this crazy seller wired them in all red wires without any marking, so when I sleeved it, i have no clue which is which and I have to make guesses UNTIL i realized that I will know which wire is which when if I pulled the sticker at the back of the fan. stupid me, lesson learned.

everything is OK though, those 4000rpm fans now always runs at 1200rpm for some reason, which i pretty much prefer.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> How can you people live with yourselves. :'(


In da ghetto of cause


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaoscontrol*
> 
> How can you people live with yourselves. :'(


Welcome to OCN!


----------



## ebhsimon

Sikabonded some acoustic foam all over my side panels. Makes it quiet AND for some weird reason lowers the temperatures of my cpu and gpu. It's uncanny. The only thing I can think of is that the inside foam funnels the intake air straight towards the gpu as there is less room on the inside for dead air to pool up.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Now THAT is ghettoriffic!


----------



## Gereti

Summer, i had too hot on my room so i desided to make my own desktop fan

first i had one but now i have two to taped to each other

all i neede was:

Antec 500W PSU
2x rosewill 23cm fan+2x12cm nmb's fan
2x empty Pepsi 12pack box
10cm molex riser
molex to 2x5V+2x12V adapter
some tape
jump wire for atx24 and ductaped it to atx24pin

made some hole's to box for one side 12cm to push air inside box, and hole for 23cm fan to push air out
same to other box, and taped boxes to each other
nmb's fan's to 5V pin and rosewill's to molex, then i placed psu behind my screen and now i can cool myself (and cat's) with that "homemade cooler"
(i can add some pics tomorrow)


----------



## Shpongle

Why buy a desk fan when you can "engineer" one?


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shpongle*
> 
> 
> 
> Why buy a desk fan when you can "engineer" one?


Yeah









Btw you should try to find couple delta/nmb/etc fan to cool yourself (those my nmb's run 6K if i run them @12V








there are soldering point's to pwm cable, luckily i have 4 of those so i was planning to mod 2 of them to pwm (actually i have soldered those pwm cable but i need just find anymore 4pin connector's, well i just stole those from "Old" fans (stockfan's(?))


----------



## RnRollie

or get one of the hi-speed, long life, etc all METAL fans... it can double up as a pencil sharpener and fly/bug killer.
And if it eats one of your fingers.. post pics


----------



## MCCSolutions

Hybrid!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> or get one of the hi-speed, long life, etc all METAL fans... it can double up as a pencil sharpener and fly/bug killer.
> And if it eats one of your fingers.. post pics


i have 2x140mm and 1x120mm full metal fan's what uses 220V


----------



## Wihglah

One of my intake fans died. The remaining one was sucking internal air through the hole and re-circulating it back into the case, so I blocked the hole until I figure out what to replace it with:


----------



## DaveLT

Sickleflows? I suggest jetflos. Sickleflows have nearly no static pressure and false ratings and were crap to start with though ...

Or are they jetflos? Strange of them to die. I have been using my jetflo since launch and it's fine.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Sickleflows? I suggest jetflos. Sickleflows have nearly no static pressure and false ratings and were crap to start with though ...
> 
> Or are they jetflos? Strange of them to die. I have been using my jetflo since launch and it's fine.


yeah - a Jetflo.

It got noisy, then rattley then stopped altogether.

I'm considering something a bit quieter - maybe Phobya E-Loops


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> yeah - a Jetflo.
> 
> It got noisy, then rattley then stopped altogether.
> 
> I'm considering something a bit quieter - maybe Phobya E-Loops


IMO these really are better than noctuas and NB e-loops (phobya rebadged them) because they actually work for more than just case fans.

Too loud? Use PWM. If you haven't been doing so ... For cooling one shall not skimp on performance... Noctuas skimp performance for lower noise. Frankly, I would take the jetflo.


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> IMO these really are better than noctuas and NB e-loops (phobya rebadged them) because they actually work for more than just case fans.
> 
> Too loud? Use PWM. If you haven't been doing so ... For cooling one shall not skimp on performance... Noctuas skimp performance for lower noise. Frankly, I would take the JetFlo.


I agree however, the JetFlos are so strong they cause a turbulence noise at the dust filter of my case. It's like a fluttering sound and it's really annoying. Consequently I never run them above 1500rpm anyway.

I may relegate my Gentle typhoons to the front of my case, they are much quieter at 1450rpm and the performance is comparable at that speed.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> I agree however, the JetFlos are so strong they cause a turbulence noise at the dust filter of my case. It's like a fluttering sound and it's really annoying. Consequently I never run them above 1500rpm anyway.
> 
> I may relegate my Gentle typhoons to the front of my case, they are much quieter at 1450rpm and the performance is comparable at that speed.


I see. These are directive airflow design blades meaning it will cause turbulence with bad filters ... *cough*coarse mesh filters*cough*


----------



## allindaze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> If you are not sure if case is +/- and have some vent area with no fans around it hold one ply of TP or other very soft / light weight paper in front of vent and see which way it moves.. toward or away from case.


Good idea. I never thought of that. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## xenomorph113

Love this thread!









time for a few of my Ghetto mods

this is my computer i had back in highschool, 2002 i believe

be sure to notice the speaker stands made of 1000ML take out containers, also the taped hard drives. and yes that is a mini disc and mini disc player on the floor in front of it

also you cant really tell, but the power switch was actually just 2 wires i would cross "jump starting" is what i called it (Edit: once the power button broke that is, was about 2 years later)




this is what my fiancée's computer used too look like, back when it was just a bunch of spare parts





then i won a sweet case from Dazmode so i needed to fix up her computer "project sweetheart/power melon" was born




i also H60 modded my GF 570's, unfortunately i didnt cool the VRMs and Caps well enough and both cards were damaged, one still mostly works, just down a cap

after the 570's went i replaced them with a 670, and strung it into the loop






yes, thats a honey bottle i used as a reservoir




and a vitamin water bottle when it was still the 570's loop







when i find my card reader ill take some shots of my main rig, the sprawling mess that is it....


----------



## cravinmild

ghettoman would weep with the ghettoness of that build. You make us all proud


----------



## TiezZ BE

awesome


----------



## MCCSolutions

Ha blew a cap and replaced it with ghetto repurposing and math! I accidentally overvolted a EL Ropes ballast, I forgot it was 5v not 12v which by the way is odd but at least its more efficient. But anyway I blew a 10v 220uf Capacitor, like a gun shot lol. But luckily im a boss so I did the math and replaced it with a 50v 2.2uf Capacitor(Basically the same thing) since I didn't have the original one.


----------



## DaveLT

Uh the cap might not die but the circuit might ... Gosh you just basically cut the capacitance of the filters by a factor of 100.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Uh the cap might not die but the circuit might ... Gosh you just basically cut the capacitance of the filters by a factor of 100.


Na all it did was basically disable the onboard controller IC by being out of range, I already tested it and everything is working good, it actually stepped up the voltage on the EL, making it a little brighter but still in a safe operating range. Also with such a simple circuit the V ripple is all over the place even in its original setup. I will be just fine







Besides you should know that both capacitors fall in a minute tolerable range, they are similar density.


----------



## Hyrdo

Don't know if this counts, but I lost my heatsink fan so I smashed the stock i5 one on...


----------



## cravinmild

If you used zipstaps it may qualify lol


----------



## Hyrdo

Well, it can fall off at any moment, and is incredibly unstable does that make it ghetto? xD


----------



## Maticb

Looking at that mobo and considering it's age I doubt it needs a fan on it hahahahahahha


----------



## MCCSolutions

Dang im on a roll.... I have a aquearo 4 USB but it has a Blue matrix display, so I decided to try and change it to yellow or orange! Well removing the polarizing film was a bad idea, im gonna put it back so hopefully its not too scared lol. But I did try out some neon green acrylic and between it and the blue it makes a perfect yellow! So im off to trim some acrylic and put it all together!


----------



## Simmons572

Make some glasses out of the polarizing lenses. Leave the polarized film off the Aquearo.

Bam. Now only you can see the readouts.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Make some glasses out of the polarizing lenses. Leave the polarized film off the Aquearo.
> 
> Bam. Now only you can see the readouts.


REP+ That is just genius!


----------



## Dyaems

it is indeed genius xD

make sure to put some zip ties on the frames glasses to make it look "ghetto"


----------



## M3nta1

So, folks of the ghetto rigging thread, a few months ago i was faced with a challenge. The challenge was simple, how to make an overstressed, overheating laptop run a small local minecraft server without melting.

I mulled the problem about, thinking hard of a solution that would be elegant, tasteful, and superbly done.

And then i threw that plan out the window and busted out the screwdriver. and a bigger screwdriver, as my hammer had migrated somewhere out of reach and i was so awestruck by my 2 AM flash of genius that i had to execute my plan immediately!

Behold, the cooling solution for my poor laptop!!

 
Sorry bout the terrible pictures, phone quality only.

Mad genius plan came together flawlessly, and i had crafted myself an _ACER SUPERLEGGERA_!! Mostly due to taking out the DVD drive. Note the delicate and careful application of force that left a finger shredding edge around the gaping maw of the fan intake, that would become a finger terrorising monster. Which is pretty funny when people forget and move the laptop only to BZRRT their fingertips on the fan.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

found this pic of my teamspeak server to post here










There is a small monitor bolted through the side panel of the old emachines case. It has a cooler that is too big for it, the side panel does not fit on it









This machine was put together with spare parts and donated parts from my online gaming friends.
processor i got for 50$ 25 of which was chipped in by a friend in NH.
The power supply and motherboard i got for free from a disfunctional college machine. Power supply was going to be thrown out and it didn't have a fan. found a 120mm thermaltake fan, screwed it in and ran the molex connector outside of the PSU case.
The cpu cooler was donated from a friend in Las vegas. Monitor was donated from my brother, the emachines case, well come on it's an EMACHINES CASE! those things brand new are cheap as dirt.
I had the stick of ddr3 ram laying around somewhere, and i don't even remember where i got the Wifi card. only thing i paid for in this machine was the processor, a celeron G540 at half cost.


----------



## Blaise170

Spliced together the cables to a working fan with a working fan connector... It works!


----------



## BradleyW

You cooling the PSU?


----------



## Blaise170

Haha no, was just testing it.


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Haha no, was just testing it.


Lies! You are cooling the PSU! Ultimate PC ghetto cooling right here lol!


----------



## Pawelr98

That's how I'm cooling down my room ATM. Normally people set the fan to blow at them. I use it to blow the hot air outside.During the day the ambient is ~30°C and when I start gaming then the ambient goes up even further.The fan is set to low RPM but the room is much cooler.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how I'm cooling down my room ATM. Normally people set the fan to blow at them. I use it to blow the hot air outside.During the day the ambient is ~30°C and when I start gaming then the ambient goes up even further.The fan is set to low RPM but the room is much cooler.


I do the same thing with a tower fan, I put it at some boxes (as high as possible) in the opening of my window to blow outside. The window at the opposite side of the room is opened so the cool air is coming inside.

But this only works when it's colder outside than inside, so I wait untill it's not that hot outside anymore (in the evening).

Your ambient is high







, here it is just at 25-28c inside when it's 30(+)c outside. But most of the time I don't game untill the evening/night because I don't want it to get hotter than that (can't stand it inside).


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Your ambient is high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , here it is just at 25-28c inside when it's 30(+)c outside. But most of the time I don't game untill the evening/night because I don't want it to get hotter than that (can't stand it inside).


My room is under terrace so the room heats up from the sun.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

thats my dust filter for now lol...


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> Your ambient is high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , here it is just at 25-28c inside when it's 30(+)c outside. But most of the time I don't game untill the evening/night because I don't want it to get hotter than that (can't stand it inside).
> 
> 
> 
> My room is under terrace so the room heats up from the sun.
Click to expand...

there's an easy solution to that...
Put a (garden)sprinkler on the terrace... the water will cool down everything.









I bet everyone was expecting


Spoiler: a picture like this:







but NO.. as that would be too easy










Spoiler: Check these:



    



source: http://macgyverisms.wonderhowto.com/how-to/beat-heat-for-cheap-with-these-five-diy-sprinklers-0138162/


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> there's an easy solution to that...
> Put a (garden)sprinkler on the terrace... the water will cool down everything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet everyone was expecting
> 
> 
> Spoiler: a picture like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but NO.. as that would be too easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Check these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> source: http://macgyverisms.wonderhowto.com/how-to/beat-heat-for-cheap-with-these-five-diy-sprinklers-0138162/


is that a real turtle


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You know, that turtle has the facial expression a real turtle would have if someone were to shove a garden hose up it's arse and use it as a sprinkler.


----------



## 5291Crash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TiezZ BE*
> 
> I do the same thing with a tower fan, I put it at some boxes (as high as possible) in the opening of my window to blow outside. The window at the opposite side of the room is opened so the cool air is coming inside.
> 
> But this only works when it's colder outside than inside, so I wait untill it's not that hot outside anymore (in the evening).
> 
> Your ambient is high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , here it is just at 25-28c inside when it's 30(+)c outside. But most of the time I don't game untill the evening/night because I don't want it to get hotter than that (can't stand it inside).


I use a 20" box fan int he window with a towel around its outside essentially make it a exhaust vent instead of a window.

Mid day ambient in the room can climb to 30-35 C, once the temps drops at night i flip the fan around and push cooler air into the room and open the opposing walls window to expel the hot air out.

Thinking my next build will be WC so i can control the exhausted heat better.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> You know, that turtle has the facial expression a real turtle would have if someone were to shove a garden hose up it's arse and use it as a sprinkler.


lol yeah its like dafuq is happening


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> You know, that turtle has the facial expression a real turtle would have if someone were to shove a garden hose up it's arse and use it as a sprinkler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol yeah its like dafuq is happening
Click to expand...



And I secured an 80mm fan to a 775 heatsink today with rubber bands that were used to bind the legs of a chicken I bought in the supermarket.









The chicken soup was delicious too, in case anyone wonders.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> 
> 
> And I secured an 80mm fan to a 775 heatsink today with rubber bands that were used to bind the legs of a chicken I bought in the supermarket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chicken soup was delicious too, in case anyone wonders.


are rubber bands really enough pressure? Don't melt that chip! Even though it's worth the same as some Lays haha


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> are rubber bands really enough pressure? Don't melt that chip! Even though it's worth the same as some Lays haha


Rubberbands should be plenty just to hold the fan to the heatsink, but i would not use them for holding the heatsink to the processor.


----------



## RnRollie

Just imagine what would happen if there were just enough vibration (eg by playing drum&bass at volume 11) for the rubber band to move up/down just enough for one of the fan blades to hook into...


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Just imagine what would happen if there were just enough vibration (eg by playing drum&bass at volume 11) for the rubber band to move up/down just enough for one of the fan blades to hook into...


well lets hope they are stretched enough








i would have just used some wood screws to dig into the aluminum of the heatsink if i didn't have anything else


----------



## Dyaems

I think its not about the pressure, but the rubber itself getting loose/melted after heating up for periods of time? And maybe the fan will fly afterwards (j/k)


----------



## 0493mike

OK here's my solution for the VRMs , memory and GPU. This is a plain jane pny 780. But the one rad does ok could use a second one. Temps while gaming stay in the mid 50s and idle is just above ambeint. A little backyard mechanics


----------



## s3nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> OK here's my solution for the VRMs , memory and GPU. This is a plain jane pny 780. But the one rad does ok could use a second one. Temps while gaming stay in the mid 50s and idle is just above ambeint. A little backyard mechanics


That sir, is genius!


----------



## XanderTheGoober

That is the first time i've ever seen anything like that. Did you have to custom cut a copper plate and heatpipes for the vrms?


----------



## 0493mike

I took a sheet of copper thats used for roofs and cut it to fit the heat plate. Then used copper pipe thats for water to the fridge, bent it and soldered. The fan needed to be trimed on the bottem to not rub the pipe. Also cut the heat plate to make direct contact for the pump so no need a shim. And cut the fins on the mounting of the card and allowed more air flow through it. In the fan housing I drilled a couple of holes to let air flow under the fan to the VRMs and out the back so that it could use the heat fins that were just passive before. So far its working but I think it needs more radiator to handle all the heat the waters picking up. And thank you this thread is amazing with all the ghetto goodness.


----------



## 0493mike

here's a closer picture 

This is my first attempt. After making this I now know a few things that would make it better. The next one I will incorporate the new designs. But it sure was fun.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> here's a closer picture
> 
> This is my first attempt. After making this I now know a few things that would make it better. The next one I will incorporate the new designs. But it sure was fun.


Aye, now that is the very definition of "ghetto rigging".


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> here's a closer picture
> 
> This is my first attempt. After making this I now know a few things that would make it better. The next one I will incorporate the new designs. But it sure was fun.


This is like an uber hardcorer mod of my HD 5450 (see sig in spoiler for thread)


----------



## 0493mike

That is really cool. What did you use for thermal interface material pads or paste? And a nice rig too. Bet its very quiet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> here's a closer picture
> 
> This is my first attempt. After making this I now know a few things that would make it better. The next one I will incorporate the new designs. But it sure was fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is like an uber hardcorer mod of my HD 5450 (see sig in spoiler for thread)
Click to expand...


----------



## ThijsH

That is one awesome hardware mod my friend. Not so much ghetto as ingenious altough I guess often those are the same thing.


----------



## acroback

I do not know but assembling a super low budget Haswell setup will count.

My case is composed of 2 carton boxes.
One from Amazon and another one is USPS Priority Regional rate box B.

Box B store PSU and wires are fed to upper Amazon box to power rest of the components includig my HDD.

My power switch is a flat screw head







.

Is that ghetto enough?


----------



## 0493mike

Thats ghettoness of high standerds. Pics please.


----------



## arealMESSiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acroback*
> 
> I do not know but assembling a super low budget Haswell setup will count.
> 
> My case is composed of 2 carton boxes.
> One from Amazon and another one is USPS Priority Regional rate box B.
> 
> Box B store PSU and wires are fed to upper Amazon box to power rest of the components includig my HDD.
> 
> My power switch is a flat screw head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Is that ghetto enough?


Oh man, I gotta see this lol.


----------



## TechnoVixen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ha blew a cap and replaced it with ghetto repurposing and math! I accidentally overvolted a EL Ropes ballast, I forgot it was 5v not 12v which by the way is odd but at least its more efficient. But anyway I blew a 10v 220uf Capacitor, like a gun shot lol. But luckily im a boss so I did the math and replaced it with a 50v 2.2uf Capacitor(Basically the same thing) since I didn't have the original one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I have to know, where did you get the EL Ropes ballast? That purple is amazing. Registered just to ask you this









My old Radeon HD 5770. Orignal fan died and I had a 120mm on it with bread ties. I cleaned up this fan and mounted it with zipties. Keeps the card cool at least for my cousin now since I upgraded to a R9 270 oc


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GigabitPony*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> I have to know, where did you get the EL Ropes ballast? That purple is amazing. Registered just to ask you this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My old Radeon HD 5770. Orignal fan died and I had a 120mm on it with bread ties. I cleaned up this fan and mounted it with zipties. Keeps the card cool at least for my cousin now since I upgraded to a R9 270 oc


Welcome.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GigabitPony*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> I have to know, where did you get the EL Ropes ballast? That purple is amazing. Registered just to ask you this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My old Radeon HD 5770. Orignal fan died and I had a 120mm on it with bread ties. I cleaned up this fan and mounted it with zipties. Keeps the card cool at least for my cousin now since I upgraded to a R9 270 oc


Good, but what are you asking? Where is the question lol?


----------



## MCCSolutions

I answered that way too quick, I should have read more, sorry lol was in a hurry with a build leaking all over the floor lol







The ballast came with the EL rope which was ordered from newegg but same on ebay lol and prob for cheaper.............


----------



## TechnoVixen

Ah okay. And can you use one ballast for 2 ropes? Wanting to get green and purple and if I can use one ballast and save money I am all for it.


----------



## Speedster159

I have a NZXT Sleeved LED Kit and the controller is supposed to be in a PCI slot, but it's ugly... especially with the wires, so I just found an unused space in my case and taped it there.

Not too ghetto I think.


----------



## Syde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Alright, I'll refine Ghettoman when I have some spare time. In the meantime, here's the most used ghetto invention of mine, an ugly 25pcs CD box:
> 
> 
> 
> An ordinary CD box? Nope. It's murky for a reason, took me an hour and some sandpaper to make it that way. This one stands on my right hand side and there's another same kind of case on the other side. Those form LED music boxes, reacting to electrical impulses sent from a "surround" connector on my mobo over an NPN transistor, they're basically flashing in the rhythm of music (for those who don't know what an LED music box is). I built one for each channel, each box housing 6 blue LED diodes connected in series and powered through an 18V adapter over the aforementioned NPN transistor. Here it is fired up:
> 
> 
> 
> Total cost is, well $0. I took the diodes out of old electronic scraps and the boxes are dug out of trash. Even the wiring is free, ripped out of some old set of $4 PC speakers, and the adapter is a charger from a battery-powered vacuum cleaner I got from a guy I know.
> 
> By the way, these look just beautiful when I turn the light off and play some music, they can light up my entire room when the bass kicks in. Not so beautiful for the epileptic though.


These are F'ing amazing!

Are they easy to build, and are schematics available easily? I'd love to build me some of these!


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syde*
> 
> These are F'ing amazing!
> 
> Are they easy to build, and are schematics available easily? I'd love to build me some of these!


If you can wire, it is pretty easy. All you need are a few parts.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Estop held onto machine table by velcro strap. Box is made from a plastic project box with dremel'd holes in it.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> 
> 
> Estop held onto machine table by velcro strap. Box is made from a plastic project box with dremel'd holes in it.


Speaking as someone who works in electrical controls, and is therefore very well versed in E-stops, that is Ghetto-Fantabulous.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syde*
> 
> These are F'ing amazing!
> 
> Are they easy to build, and are schematics available easily? I'd love to build me some of these!


I didn't make a schematic for mine, but I found this one - http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/

Here's the poorly drawn schematic for that circuit:


Red speaker jack wire is the channel (both channels in the above case), yellow one is ground, all hooked up to a TIP31 transistor similar to the one I used. Make two of these circuits and put them in two boxes, bridge the power source to power both of them in parallel, connect each channel to it's own box - you got a stereo version like the one I made. Or just use the above and connect both channels to the same box for mono version, either way works, I personally prefer a stereo one.

Each diode should be getting 2.8-3.1V, the number of diodes per channel depends on voltage you power them with. I had an 18V adapter (an Electrolux Rapido charger) so I used 6 diodes in series per channel to get 3V on each.

Overall, it's pretty easy to make, took me a few hours for two of these. Only complicated thing was gluing a 10pcs box to the bottom of a 25pcs box without them falling apart (all the parts are located in the bottom one and holes are drilled in the top box's bottom for diodes to stick out) and the one thing that actually took long was manually sanding the case tops to appear murky since it had to be equally murky on all sides.


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I didn't make a schematic for mine, but I found this one - http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
> 
> Here's the poorly drawn schematic for that circuit:
> 
> 
> Red speaker jack wire is the channel (both channels in the above case), yellow one is ground, all hooked up to a TIP31 transistor similar to the one I used. Make two of these circuits and put them in two boxes, bridge the power source to power both of them in parallel, connect each channel to it's own box - you got a stereo version like the one I made. Or just use the above and connect both channels to the same box for mono version, either way works, I personally prefer a stereo one.
> 
> Each diode should be getting 2.8-3.1V, the number of diodes per channel depends on voltage you power them with. I had an 18V adapter (an Electrolux Rapido charger) so I used 6 diodes in series per channel to get 3V on each.
> 
> Overall, it's pretty easy to make, took me a few hours for two of these. Only complicated thing was gluing a 10pcs box to the bottom of a 25pcs box without them falling apart (all the parts are located in the bottom one and holes are drilled in the top box's bottom for diodes to stick out) and the one thing that actually took long was manually sanding the case tops to appear murky since it had to be equally murky on all sides.


Wouldn't you need to put a resistor on that circuit?

Apart from that I'm totally going to build my own version of this with LED strip. 3 surround channels = 3 R, G and B should make for some decent colors I guess!


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Wouldn't you need to put a resistor on that circuit?
> 
> Apart from that I'm totally going to build my own version of this with LED strip. 3 surround channels = 3 R, G and B should make for some decent colors I guess!


Nah, these can't reach 20mA at 3V so no need for a resistor, they reach 20mA at 3.1V which they will never hit on this crappy adapter.

And LED strips are much easier to work with, they have a resistor built-in and you have no need to make a serial connection between a bunch of diodes like I had to do. Sucks that LED strips are too expensive for me, $10/m for single-color ones, $25/m for RGB.

I got 1m strip of red LEDs from an old PC case I ripped apart (was built into the front panel) but I'm saving it for a project I'm working on. I've been thinking lately about hooking a single piece of that strip to my voltage controlled CPU fan header and putting it behind the front panel mesh to glow brighter/weaker as my CPU temp increases and decreases. Kinda like those lights on Corsair AIO CPU blocks but changing in brightness instead of color.


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Nah, these can't reach 20mA at 3V so no need for a resistor, they reach 20mA at 3.1V which they will never hit on this crappy adapter.
> 
> And LED strips are much easier to work with, they have a resistor built-in and you have no need to make a serial connection between a bunch of diodes like I had to do. Sucks that LED strips are too expensive for me, $10/m for single-color ones, $25/m for RGB.
> 
> I got 1m strip of red LEDs from an old PC case I ripped apart (was built into the front panel) but I'm saving it for a project I'm working on. I've been thinking lately about hooking a single piece of that strip to my voltage controlled CPU fan header and putting it behind the front panel mesh to glow brighter/weaker as my CPU temp increases and decreases. Kinda like those lights on Corsair AIO CPU blocks but changing in brightness instead of color.


Arh good point with the resistors. I just tend to burn mine without one but I also always opt for "plenty-of-power" adapters.

Try dx.com for LED strip. You should be able to get 5m for less than $20 there. That's where I usually order med strip. Or from some random inside-EU Ebay seller. Slightly more expensive, but faster delivery and no VAT. Croatia is already integrated into EU too right? Should be same for you then. I prefer ebay.co.uk for stuff like that









Great idea with the CPU voltage to LED in front panel mesh! Look forward to seeing that! I guess you would need to put in a transistor for that as well. to not draw too many wats over the mobo. Like the idea though. I might even steal it ;D

Edit: Oh and PWM signal from CPU should do wonders to control that LED strip as well.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Arh good point with the resistors. I just tend to burn mine without one but I also always opt for "plenty-of-power" adapters.
> 
> Try dx.com for LED strip. You should be able to get 5m for less than $20 there. That's where I usually order med strip. Or from some random inside-EU Ebay seller. Slightly more expensive, but faster delivery and no VAT. Croatia is already integrated into EU too right? Should be same for you then. I prefer ebay.co.uk for stuff like that


I find that best way to check at what voltage can a diode work without blowing up is to put it on a variable voltage source. Just hook up the amp-meter to the diode to measure current and increase volts until it hits 20mA, anything less than that voltage can work without a resistor.









And yeah, Croatia has been integrated into EU but our import services are a bit iffy so until now I avoided importing if possible. Latest update says I can import anything under 500HRK (~€65) from EU without getting slapped with 150% import tax so I might actually try getting some electronic components.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Great idea with the CPU voltage to LED in front panel mesh! Look forward to seeing that! I guess you would need to put in a transistor for that as well. to not draw too many wats over the mobo. Like the idea though. I might even steal it ;D
> 
> Edit: Oh and PWM signal from CPU should do wonders to control that LED strip as well.


I've actually been thinking about that for a while, also about building an LED voltage meter similar in concept to this one:

Except I'd measure the voltage by adjusting the header to a linear curve starting with 3V up to 20C and ending with 12V at 60C, which would show pretty accurate temp results up to 60C on the front panel. I gave up on this one though, don't have the money for parts.

As for header overload, I'm not worried about that at all. A single segment of this LED strip consists of 5 LEDs operating at 2.2V across the resistor, each drawing 20mA so basically 2.2V 0.1A (0.22W) total. Considering that the header is designed to be able to constantly deliver 1A at 12V (12W), I'm way back in the safe zone.









Also, I'd love to use PWM but my VRM fan (old 60mm from an Athlon 64 stock cooler) that is hooked up to the CPU header is a 3-pin so no PWM control or that noisy little bastard runs full-speed all the time.


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I find that best way to check at what voltage can a diode work without blowing up is to put it on a variable voltage source. Just hook up the amp-meter to the diode to measure current and increase volts until it hits 20mA, anything less than that voltage can work without a resistor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah, Croatia has been integrated into EU but our import services are a bit iffy so until now I avoided importing if possible. Latest update says I can import anything under 500HRK (~€65) from EU without getting slapped with 150% import tax so I might actually try getting some electronic components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've actually been thinking about that for a while, also about building an LED voltage meter similar in concept to this one:
> 
> Except I'd measure the voltage by adjusting the header to a linear curve starting with 3V up to 20C and ending with 12V at 60C, which would show pretty accurate temp results up to 60C on the front panel. I gave up on this one though, don't have the money for parts.
> 
> As for header overload, I'm not worried about that at all. A single segment of this LED strip consists of 5 LEDs operating at 2.2V across the resistor, each drawing 20mA so basically 2.2V 0.1A (0.22W) total. Considering that the header is designed to be able to constantly deliver 1A at 12V (12W), I'm way back in the safe zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I'd love to use PWM but my VRM fan (old 60mm from an Athlon 64 stock cooler) that is hooked up to the CPU header is a 3-pin so no PWM control or that noisy little bastard runs full-speed all the time.


Wow that is a low limit for inside-EU importing. I don't know what our limits are for inside EU but it's several hundred dollars at least. If importing from outside EU though I risk a 25% VAT slapped on as default. If they decide to check the contents of the package. Which they never do from China but always do from the states.
If you are really in a pinch I suppose I could act as middle man for you and send it as a gift package to you. Should be tax free then. Will add extra postage though

Heh my LED strip is 12V rated and draws up to 72 watts over the 5 meters so even though I wouldn't use anywhere near 5 meters it still adds up. I already have an arduino built in with 12v power to an LED strip so for me I guess it would be easy to add in PWM from the CPU header. And I also have a PWM CPU fan.

But between this project and an LED strip music box of some sort I'm starting to look at a hell of a lot of LED strip. Particularly for my small Node 304 build


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Arh good point with the resistors. I just tend to burn mine without one but I also always opt for "plenty-of-power" adapters.
> 
> Try dx.com for LED strip. You should be able to get 5m for less than $20 there. That's where I usually order med strip. Or from some random inside-EU Ebay seller. Slightly more expensive, but faster delivery and no VAT. Croatia is already integrated into EU too right? Should be same for you then. I prefer ebay.co.uk for stuff like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great idea with the CPU voltage to LED in front panel mesh! Look forward to seeing that! I guess you would need to put in a transistor for that as well. to not draw too many wats over the mobo. Like the idea though. I might even steal it ;D
> 
> Edit: Oh and PWM signal from CPU should do wonders to control that LED strip as well.


Keep in mind that LEDs don't really turn on at all below 8v


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Keep in mind that LEDs don't really turn on at all below 8v


That's where PWM comes in


----------



## Syde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I didn't make a schematic for mine, but I found this one - http://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/
> 
> Here's the poorly drawn schematic for that circuit:
> 
> 
> Red speaker jack wire is the channel (both channels in the above case), yellow one is ground, all hooked up to a TIP31 transistor similar to the one I used. Make two of these circuits and put them in two boxes, bridge the power source to power both of them in parallel, connect each channel to it's own box - you got a stereo version like the one I made. Or just use the above and connect both channels to the same box for mono version, either way works, I personally prefer a stereo one.
> 
> Each diode should be getting 2.8-3.1V, the number of diodes per channel depends on voltage you power them with. I had an 18V adapter (an Electrolux Rapido charger) so I used 6 diodes in series per channel to get 3V on each.
> 
> Overall, it's pretty easy to make, took me a few hours for two of these. Only complicated thing was gluing a 10pcs box to the bottom of a 25pcs box without them falling apart (all the parts are located in the bottom one and holes are drilled in the top box's bottom for diodes to stick out) and the one thing that actually took long was manually sanding the case tops to appear murky since it had to be equally murky on all sides.


Way easier than I antecipated tbh! I got me some 12v wall warts around and some clear plastic sheating (clear and opaque acrylic) laying around somewhere, the rest of the components are cheap or salvageable! Also, the idea sugested below of using different channels to drive different colors is also pretty tempting.

Thanks, When I get around to building mine i'll eventually share it here.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ---snip---
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Arh good point with the resistors. I just tend to burn mine without one but I also always opt for "plenty-of-power" adapters.
> 
> Try dx.com for LED strip. You should be able to get 5m for less than $20 there. That's where I usually order med strip. Or from some random inside-EU Ebay seller. Slightly more expensive, but faster delivery and no VAT. Croatia is already integrated into EU too right? Should be same for you then. I prefer ebay.co.uk for stuff like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find that best way to check at what voltage can a diode work without blowing up is to put it on a variable voltage source. Just hook up the amp-meter to the diode to measure current and increase volts until it hits 20mA, anything less than that voltage can work without a resistor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah, Croatia has been integrated into EU but our import services are a bit iffy so until now I avoided importing if possible. Latest update says I can import anything under 500HRK (~€65) from EU without getting slapped with 150% import tax so I might actually try getting some electronic components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Great idea with the CPU voltage to LED in front panel mesh! Look forward to seeing that! I guess you would need to put in a transistor for that as well. to not draw too many wats over the mobo. Like the idea though. I might even steal it ;D
> 
> Edit: Oh and PWM signal from CPU should do wonders to control that LED strip as well.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've actually been thinking about that for a while, also about building an LED voltage meter similar in concept to this one:
> 
> Except I'd measure the voltage by adjusting the header to a linear curve starting with 3V up to 20C and ending with 12V at 60C, which would show pretty accurate temp results up to 60C on the front panel. I gave up on this one though, don't have the money for parts.
> 
> As for header overload, I'm not worried about that at all. A single segment of this LED strip consists of 5 LEDs operating at 2.2V across the resistor, each drawing 20mA so basically 2.2V 0.1A (0.22W) total. Considering that the header is designed to be able to constantly deliver 1A at 12V (12W), I'm way back in the safe zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I'd love to use PWM but my VRM fan (old 60mm from an Athlon 64 stock cooler) that is hooked up to the CPU header is a 3-pin so no PWM control or that noisy little bastard runs full-speed all the time.
Click to expand...

go here for a cheap way to convert PWM to voltage... a cap, a resistor and a transistor :
http://www.overclock.net/t/1505404/guide-convert-3-pin-fan-to-pwm-56k-warning-courtesy-of-lazzer408/0_100


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> go here for a cheap way to convert PWM to voltage... a cap, a resistor and a transistor :
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1505404/guide-convert-3-pin-fan-to-pwm-56k-warning-courtesy-of-lazzer408/0_100


Not relevant for me but I'm loving the idea of a PWM-mod PCB-board all just to be able to run some LED shenanigans


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Wow that is a low limit for inside-EU importing.


Not really, it's actually pretty high for what it used to be. Croatia will still slap 23% tax on the thing no matter the cost but under ~€65 goods aren't handled by customs which is great. Having it pass through customs brings around €50 worth of costs just for one day of storage and paperwork costs + 23% tax + pickup fee, it's to keep the local import services relevant but those only import large quantities. EU is a blessing in this regard since there are no fees, just tax.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> If you are really in a pinch I suppose I could act as middle man for you and send it as a gift package to you. Should be tax free then. Will add extra postage though


Thanks for the offer, I very much appreciate it and you get +REP for that. However I already use my relative for that since he owns construction companies both in Austria and here and travels there and back couple of times a month. Import/export taxes and fees not applying to him, has both Austrian and Croatian citizenship meaning he can import and export anything without paying extra.

And in turn, I make sure he doesn't meet an untimely demise by keeping quiet about the fact that his wife's expensive family dishes were broken by him slamming an €5000 model plane he didn't tell her anything about into them. It's a mutually beneficial agreement. 









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Heh my LED strip is 12V rated and draws up to 72 watts over the 5 meters so even though I wouldn't use anywhere near 5 meters it still adds up. I already have an arduino built in with 12v power to an LED strip so for me I guess it would be easy to add in PWM from the CPU header. And I also have a PWM CPU fan.
> 
> But between this project and an LED strip music box of some sort I'm starting to look at a hell of a lot of LED strip. Particularly for my small Node 304 build


Whoa, 72W over 5m? Even 1m without the fan would be too much for the fan header to handle, you gotta use something external in your case. Arduino is also something I'm seriously considering of getting, I could have a lot of fun with one of those.

And you may use a lot of LED strip, but it's all for a good cause.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Keep in mind that LEDs don't really turn on at all below 8v


You mean the LED strip? My red one starts turning on at 5V over a USB cable, it's glowing very dim but it's on, and at 8V it's already starting to glow nicely. At 12V my room looks like a scene out of Doom 3 with red lighting and all the PC parts and random crap thrown around everywhere, I kinda like that.

@Syde Yeah, the circuit is pretty simple, a few diodes, a transistor, speaker jack and a power source. Makes for some awesome visuals for something as simple, especially that one music box where I installed a few diodes in multiple colors line up in a single channel, looked like a flashing color spectrum. Sold that one though, you don't say no when someone gives you $100 for it.

And do share, I always like to see good LED builds.









@RnRollie I already thought about making something like that but it's too much work just to have one fan PWM controlled when it works perfectly with voltage control. Plus, it's much easier to build a voltage control circuit over molex since I need even less parts. Not to mention I don't have a single spare 4-pin header or plug in my toolbox, all I got are 3-pin and 2-pin plugs and headers.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> That's where PWM comes in


PWM doesn't give you an increased control range. It is just easier to control and much more efficient and is a way to actually increase brightness but to give it an increased control range? Hell no.

@Werne White LED strips in particular (Higher turn-on voltage) I hate PCs that look like an oven


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> PWM doesn't give you an increased control range. It is just easier to control and much more efficient and is a way to actually increase brightness but to give it an increased control range? Hell no.
> 
> @Werne White LED strips in particular (Higher turn-on voltage) I hate PCs that look like an oven


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> PWM doesn't give you an increased control range. It is just easier to control and much more efficient and is a way to actually increase brightness but to give it an increased control range? Hell no.
> 
> @Werne White LED strips in particular (Higher turn-on voltage) I hate PCs that look like an oven


My point was that with PWM you can just stick to the native 12V rail and use PWM to control, so down-volting is not necessary hence the 8V limit you mention is not a problem. Sure you only get 256 steps but due to the way we percieve brightness that amounts to far fewer percieved steps anyway. I've played quite a bit with arduino, PWM and LED strip and it is definitely not possible to distinguish that many levels. sure you can distingish between the first few levels but from then on it is not possible to say when it goes up a level. At least I am very much NOT able to do so.


----------



## diesel678

Anyone else have a ridiculously hot SAS controller?





Stock HS was getting so hot it would actually burn you if you touched it


----------



## DaveLT

If you don't mind a bit of elevated noise a low speed (5K is the "low-speed" around here) 40mm 10mm thick fan will do.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> If you don't mind a bit of elevated noise a low speed (5K is the "low-speed" around here) 40mm 10mm thick fan will do.


Agreed!


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> Anyone else have a ridiculously hot SAS controller?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stock HS was getting so hot it would actually burn you if you touched it


how did you bend that heatpipe. @TheReciever would probably like to know.


----------



## dispositional

They said that I could not fit a h105 in a thermaltake chaser a31. I had to prove them wrong lol.


----------



## dispositional

I didn't like the look of it though so I had to redo the whole thing with a different case and sleeve the cables.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

I have something coming up that will involve some ghetto water cooling. i will be using some clear tubing that came with my xspc kit, my thermaltake water 2.0 dual 120mm radiator that came off of an AIO. most likely a pump, block, res combo from a cooler master eisberg. some barb fittings and hose clamps from my local hardware store. this will be going in the vulcan hack mac so stay tuned.


----------



## Blaise170

Even though this isn't my PC, I think this qualifies. These sunglasses look normal, right?










WRONG! The earpieces were lost, so these use genuine 3/16 heatshrink, made to size with a butane lighter!


----------



## ThijsH

^ hahaha that is epic


----------



## TechnoVixen

Would it be ghetto for me to rig up a Xinruilian Axial AC fan on my cousins PC tor better airflow? Friend gave it to me from an air hockey table. it is 120v ac input XD


----------



## dispositional

Yes I would consider that Ghetto rigging lol. You never know it might work pretty good though. Let us know how it works.


----------



## TechnoVixen

Okay it works, putting out 120CFM but it does not like being mounted on the side. By that I mean it squeals when turned on. But I did see temp drops of around ~5c for this as intake and the existing fan as outtake


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Getto much?


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Getto much?


What material is that?

I am actually using a household window screen as a filter on my cosmos's bottom, stock filter system doesn't flow very well.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Im using this


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Im using this


ouh la la


----------



## cptnighthawk666

sexy


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Getto much?


How did you get those stockings to stretch out? I've always attempted to use stockings as filters before, and the stockings always ends up "curling" (not sure the word is) back to its original place.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

I did not cut em... lol ... i guess it worked out awesome... LADIES accessories FTW!!


----------



## Dyaems

Oh okay, I guess ill just cover the whole grill with stockings the next time I do it!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

I guess the old commercials were right... Nothing beats a great pair of L'eggs...


----------



## Lynchie

Just helping a mate 'fit' a 280x in a case (ft03 mini) which only takes 10" cards


----------



## cravinmild

Why not just slip the whole pc into the stocking and zip tie it closed at the top







called it a full sleeve filter or unifilter


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Why not just slip the whole pc into the stocking and zip tie it closed at the top
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> called it a full sleeve filter or unifilter


that is genius!! too bad the corners of the case is liable to cut the material you may want to use.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> that is genius!! too bad the corners of the case is liable to cut the material you may want to use.


is it possible to do so???? I need one big ass fat chick stockings...


----------



## cravinmild

Just make sure they aren't white cause of ..... ya know ( skid marks)


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> is it possible to do so???? I need one big ass fat chick stockings...


that and where are all the cables going to go? gonna need some extensions


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> is it possible to do so???? I need one big ass fat chick stockings...
> 
> 
> 
> that and where are all the cables going to go? gonna need some extensions
Click to expand...

crotchless maybe ?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> crotchless maybe ?


oh god XD
dont even wanna think about crotchless XXXL underpants/stockings.


----------



## Duality92




----------



## Vario

I have a skt 939 FX57 heatsink fan that has been sitting around for ages. It is very small but has a lot of mass because of the high quality copper heatpipe design. I am really tempted to install it on my i5 2550k but I am not sure the easiest way to do this, probably with zip ties?

I don't really trust my 4 year old Asetek 120mm AIO because it is getting quite old and has in constant use 24/7 for at-least 3 years straight.

Heatsink contact plate measures 75mm by 45mm. Do you think I could attach it to my 1155 2550k / Z77E-ITX?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> I have a skt 939 FX57 heatsink fan that has been sitting around for ages. It is very small but has a lot of mass because of the high quality copper heatpipe design. I am really tempted to install it on my i5 2550k but I am not sure the easiest way to do this, probably with zip ties?
> 
> I don't really trust my 4 year old Asetek 120mm AIO because it is getting quite old and has in constant use 24/7 for at-least 3 years straight.
> 
> Heatsink contact plate measures 75mm by 45mm. Do you think I could attach it to my 1155 2550k / Z77E-ITX?


if you wanted a nice secure fit i would try to fab up some metal brackets that would bolt through the 4 intel motherboard holes and then mount the amd retention clip to those brackets somehow, possibly by bending the amd bracket and sticking some bolts through. could be tricky but would be more secure than zipties.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> if you wanted a nice secure fit i would try to fab up some metal brackets that would bolt through the 4 intel motherboard holes and then mount the amd retention clip to those brackets somehow, possibly by bending the amd bracket and sticking some bolts through. could be tricky but would be more secure than zipties.


Well I know for sure that method fits in this thread.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> if you wanted a nice secure fit i would try to fab up some metal brackets that would bolt through the 4 intel motherboard holes and then mount the amd retention clip to those brackets somehow, possibly by bending the amd bracket and sticking some bolts through. could be tricky but would be more secure than zipties.


I wonder if a 939 retention bracket (with modification) could be installed on 1155 board. It is a rugged plastic so no risk of bad conductivity issue. I would be concerned about the clamping force though (too much force or incorrect height)


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> I wonder if a 939 retention bracket (with modification) could be installed on 1155 board. It is a rugged plastic so no risk of bad conductivity issue. I would be concerned about the clamping force though (too much force or incorrect height)


question is how far off are the holes of the bracket in comparison to the motherboard?


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> question is how far off are the holes of the bracket in comparison to the motherboard?


Going to see if I can get the 939 bracket from my friend, I sold that opteron system to him back in 08 but kept the FX57 cooler.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Take a pic of the cooler itself please.


----------



## Vario

It really looks a lot like the current FX 8350 HSF. However I think its heavier than the HSF that came with my Phenom II X4 965 so I have a feeling it has more copper in its base than the modern AM3 but who knows. Regardless it should have no problem cooling an i5.

I think I could send zip ties from the bottom up run through the holes in the motherboard with the stalks going through the fins and run a zip tie head (no stalk) through the stalk end to tie it off.

Probably upgrade the fan to a 70mmx20mm instead of the 70x12mm.


----------



## hiezenberg313

here's my temporary hdd cage made from two pieces of scrap acrylic it holds 1x 3.25 2x 5.25 and a ssd at the bottom it turned out better than expected




I'm also using the front panel connections of a old case


----------



## Duality92

that's not too ghetto, it's missing duct tape and tie wraps.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiezenberg313*
> 
> here's my temporary hdd cage made from two pieces of scrap acrylic it holds 1x 3.25 2x 5.25 and a ssd at the bottom it turned out better than expected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also using the front panel connections of a old case


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> that's not too ghetto, it's missing duct tape and tie wraps.


Agreed. Hell, I might try that for a build...


----------



## OxygeenHD

I personally took out many PSU fans, to put them as case fans, many of them had 2 pin ( + and - ) so i was multiple times crasy when i would like to plug them into the correct two pins on my Motherboard.

One day, i took a fan out a powersupply, this one had two wires directly sold into the PSU PCB, so i had to take a domino, and a 3 pin connecter cut out of an old 60mm CPU fan and assemble them... GHETTO FANS POWA !


----------



## RnRollie

why make a drive cage when this can easily hold two drives


----------



## nick779

Not a great picture, but you get the idea. H105 didnt fit inside my 300R, so I mounted it on the outside...


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Not a great picture, but you get the idea. H105 didnt fit inside my H105, so I mounted it on the outside...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


very similar to what i did with my nzxt vulcan


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Not a great picture, but you get the idea. H105 didnt fit inside my H105, so I mounted it on the outside...


What is this H105ception you're speaking of?


----------



## nick779

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> What is this H105ception you're speaking of?


Lol 300R, my bad


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nick779*
> 
> Not a great picture, but you get the idea. H105 didnt fit inside my 300R, so I mounted it on the outside...


LMAO same here:


----------



## 0493mike

I guess its ghetto but it looks to nice to be really ghetto.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> I guess its ghetto but it looks to nice to be really ghetto.


Lol I know but maybe this will make you feel better:


----------



## 0493mike

And loven it.


----------



## hartofwave

HDD box thing, I dunno.....


----------



## Dyaems

^

now thats what we call ghetto


----------



## NvNw

What about doing a molex to fan splitter using an old molex and IDE conector from a broken CD Writer?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> What about doing a molex to fan splitter using an old molex and IDE conector from a broken CD Writer?


Ghetto genius!


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Ghetto rigged waterloop in an attempt to salvage parts for RMA after my computer literally burst into flames during a suicide bench run (power surge during thunderstorm). I ran to my closet and just grabbed whatever random pc parts I had laying there to just get it up and running.



Kind of have things running now. Still using painter's tape as a reservoir cap and random left over tube to hold me over.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> What about doing a molex to fan splitter using an old molex and IDE conector from a broken CD Writer?


Brilliant!


----------



## Maintenance Bot

Job well done









The invention of painters tape has saved mankind many times.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Ghetto rigged waterloop in an attempt to salvage parts for RMA after my computer literally burst into flames during a suicide bench run (power surge during thunderstorm). I ran to my closet and just grabbed whatever random pc parts I had laying there to just get it up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of have things running now. Still using painter's tape as a reservoir cap and random left over tube to hold me over.


Job well done









Painters tape has saved mankind many times over.


----------



## Dyaems

I'd assume the answer is yes, is Painter's tape different from Masking tape? I can't seem to find any Painter's in our country... lol


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> What about doing a molex to fan splitter using an old molex and IDE conector from a broken CD Writer?


What's the quick and dirty guide to doing that? I have some old drives about and that seems fun....


----------



## Dyaems

The ghetto is not related to computers so this might be semi-OT:

So I noticed with my U3014 I bought really cheap that it has some markings that can't be removed from the bezel by the usual cleaning methods, like wiping. I can't make it to appear using my potatophone so I did not bother uploading a picture of it.

Since the U3014 bezel is in a form of brushed finish, I bought one of these:



Just an unknown brand because I don't want to buy Scotch Brite! They are expensive... This brand costs 1/5 the price of Scotch Brite. Anyways, I started scrubbing the bezel and problem solved.









I also noticed that the Dell logo infront of the U3014 is chrome, I'm not really bothered with it, but I still made it brushed finish while I'm at it











It probably needs more scrubbing, but I hope it can be seen with my potato pic!


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> The ghetto is not related to computers so this might be semi-OT:
> 
> So I noticed with my U3014 I bought really cheap that it has some markings that can't be removed from the bezel by the usual cleaning methods, like wiping. I can't make it to appear using my potatophone so I did not bother uploading a picture of it.
> 
> Since the U3014 bezel is in a form of brushed finish, I bought one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> Just an unknown brand because I don't want to buy Scotch Brite! They are expensive... This brand costs 1/5 the price of Scotch Brite. Anyways, I started scrubbing the bezel and problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also noticed that the Dell logo infront of the U3014 is chrome, I'm not really bothered with it, but I still made it brushed finish while I'm at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It probably needs more scrubbing, but I hope it can be seen with my potato pic!


Wait so you took something not pretty and made it pretty? Isn't that the opposite of ghetto?


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> What's the quick and dirty guide to doing that? I have some old drives about and that seems fun....


What i did was:

1 - Cut or unsolder away the conector from the drive. It's hard to unsolder every part at the same time so i use a torch to heat the board from the back side and with a little force remove it.

2 - Plan where and how many cables you are gonna plug in, the IDE port have the space to plug each connector side by side with a little of force in some cases, so you might want to leave 1 pin between two conectors.

3 - Wire every fan to the molex, you only need the Power and Ground cables to 12v and Ground, something like this but a few times:



You can also wire the pwm cable to another external cable so you can regulate the speed, but i don't think that if you plug a lot of fans to a single signal it will work right. So i used some inline resistors between the splitter and the end cables of the fans.

4 - Test it and make sure everything is wired the right way, if so trow some heat glue on the cables ends over where you solder them just to make sure it will stay that way.

5 - I used some electrical tape to cover the connection and thats it.


----------



## Vario

I gave up on my AMD heatsink plan but I have something more ghetto in the works, fitting my 120mm AIO Asetek to my 939 board. I'll post some pictures once I start cutting and drilling stuff (modifying the metal retention ring).


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

For the homemade water loop (Pentium $ @3.0GHz : *HERE* pictures) I had to find something to start the 220V aquarium pump at the moment of the PC's power on :


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zebeyo*
> 
> Wait so you took something not pretty and made it pretty? Isn't that the opposite of ghetto?


Oh man! I totally forgot that!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> What i did was:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1 - Cut or unsolder away the conector from the drive. It's hard to unsolder every part at the same time so i use a torch to heat the board from the back side and with a little force remove it.
> 
> 2 - Plan where and how many cables you are gonna plug in, the IDE port have the space to plug each connector side by side with a little of force in some cases, so you might want to leave 1 pin between two conectors.
> 
> 3 - Wire every fan to the molex, you only need the Power and Ground cables to 12v and Ground, something like this but a few times:
> 
> 
> 
> You can also wire the pwm cable to another external cable so you can regulate the speed, but i don't think that if you plug a lot of fans to a single signal it will work right. So i used some inline resistors between the splitter and the end cables of the fans.
> 
> 4 - Test it and make sure everything is wired the right way, if so trow some heat glue on the cables ends over where you solder them just to make sure it will stay that way.
> 
> 5 - I used some electrical tape to cover the connection and thats it.


Not really going to use it, maybe in the future where I go back to ITX and need more fans, but I'm gonna rep you for providing us the "quick and dirty guide"


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> For the homemade water loop (Pentium $ @3.0GHz : *HERE* pictures) I had to find something to start the 220V aquarium pump at the moment of the PC's power on :


Thats like my setup on my "Simple Desk Build"


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Thats like my setup on my "Simple Desk Build"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that's OCN type of ridiculous hahahah


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> I did not cut em... lol ... i guess it worked out awesome... LADIES accessories FTW!!


What's crazier still is, a stocking supplier actually sponsored a build so they could be used in this manner.


----------



## Werne

Well, I wanted to put the wireless USB mouse/keyboard unified controller (and the Bluetooth transceiver I'm yet to receive) inside my HTPC in preparation to move the build into a VESA mITX case. Decided to go for a small USB plug that goes directly into the internal USB header, so I went searching for something that allows me to do it and found this.


Thing is, that little ugly green piece of crap costs $12, and that's just the cheapest one I could find. $12. For practically nothing. I figured it's gonna be $1-2, but 12?! No. Just... no.

Luckily, going to the electronic waste landfill and ripping the front panel I/O circuitry off a random case costs nothing so I did that, fired up the soldering iron and started disassembling it. Ended up with these.


Sorry for a crappy pic, my potato is not in the mood for taking pictures today. Anyway, removed the USB sockets from the circuit, as well as a USB header cable which I cut off and kept the female header. Took the connectors out of the header and soldered them to the USB sockets.


Repeated the same for the second one, put some electrical tape over the solder points to avoid accidentally shorting the damn thing and assembled.


I didn't like how that looked, so two meters of electrical tape later...




Much better. The thing keeping distance between the two USB sockets is a piece of cardboard I just rolled up, wrapped in electrical tape and sandwiched between them before taping everything up. Finally, an obligatory on-the-machine pic:


Fits like a glove.









And a bonus ghetto light.





That's one of those battery-powered LED lamps that sticks onto a wall or whatever you stick it on, but I soldered a USB cable to it a while back along with a 10 ohm resistor to be used as lighting underneath the desk, for when I drop something and have to look for it. I need that, I'm clumsy.

Unfortunately, my desk lamp's neon bulb died a while ago and I can't afford a new one, so I just taped the LED light to the lamp. Works good enough for me.


----------



## Duality92

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Thats like my setup on my "Simple Desk Build"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Well, I wanted to put the wireless USB mouse/keyboard unified controller (and the Bluetooth transceiver I'm yet to receive) inside my HTPC in preparation to move the build into a VESA mITX case. Decided to go for a small USB plug that goes directly into the internal USB header, so I went searching for something that allows me to do it and found this.
> 
> 
> Thing is, that little ugly green piece of crap costs $12, and that's just the cheapest one I could find. $12. For practically nothing. I figured it's gonna be $1-2, but 12?! No. Just... no.
> 
> Luckily, going to the electronic waste landfill and ripping the front panel I/O circuitry off a random case costs nothing so I did that, fired up the soldering iron and started disassembling it. Ended up with these.
> 
> 
> Sorry for a crappy pic, my potato is not in the mood for taking pictures today. Anyway, removed the USB sockets from the circuit, as well as a USB header cable which I cut off and kept the female header. Took the connectors out of the header and soldered them to the USB sockets.
> 
> 
> Repeated the same for the second one, put some electrical tape over the solder points to avoid accidentally shorting the damn thing and assembled.
> 
> 
> I didn't like how that looked, so two meters of electrical tape later...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much better. The thing keeping distance between the two USB sockets is a piece of cardboard I just rolled up, wrapped in electrical tape and sandwiched between them before taping everything up. Finally, an obligatory on-the-machine pic:
> 
> 
> Fits like a glove.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a bonus ghetto light.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's one of those battery-powered LED lamps that sticks onto a wall or whatever you stick it on, but I soldered a USB cable to it a while back along with a 10 ohm resistor to be used as lighting underneath the desk, for when I drop something and have to look for it. I need that, I'm clumsy.
> 
> Unfortunately, my desk lamp's neon bulb died a while ago and I can't afford a new one, so I just taped the LED light to the lamp. Works good enough for me.






Now that's the beauty of OCN hahahahaha, I like it!


----------



## Radmanhs

I didn't feel like clearing off a wall or buying an expensive backdrop to make my youtube vids, so I decided I would make my own background. It's just a few boxes stacked up, a trifold, like the kind you would use in a school project, it even says "Expectant Mother Parking Only" on the back, from our Christmas party last year, with a light at the bottom as a finishing touch


----------



## nX3NTY

Use a GTX 560 as PhysX card, no way in hell my Seasonic 620W PSU gonna handle overclocked i5 4670k with overclocked R9 290 so I ad-hoc my old Vantec 600W PSU on top of the case, jumpstart it just to power the card











As an added bonus, I use my dead GTS 250 card as a holder for my R9 290 so it doesn't sag







p.s probably the worse cabling rig ever


----------



## 0493mike

Very good setup. Are those lights at the bottom. Where did you find that?


----------



## brandon88tube

This isn't as ghetto as my wind tunnel that I made and posted a while ago, but I'll leave you with this link. http://www.overclock.net/t/1510440/heatsink-mod-spire-thermax-eclipse-ii


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> Very good setup. Are those lights at the bottom. Where did you find that?


it's some light bar i believe i got at Costco, they come in a 2 pack


----------



## 0493mike

Thats cool thanks.


----------



## GhettoFied

So i'm thinking about moving to an FX8300 from mt 5800k. Can any of you with ghetto water cooling tell me what has made the biggest difference in heat? When I switch over I plan on running 5ghz daily


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I'm running FX. It's fun to overclock, sure, so get it for that purpose if you wish. But to be honest, you're better off with Z77 and a 2700k. Overclock that to 5GHz instead. Both the platforms are equally dead, so you'll need a new system anyway when it comes time to upgrade.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> So i'm thinking about moving to an FX8300 from mt 5800k. Can any of you with ghetto water cooling tell me what has made the biggest difference in heat? When I switch over I plan on running 5ghz daily


Good luck on getting an FX 8300 to 5 GHz. A 9590 most times won't do 5 GHz stable with all eight cores. An 8300 is more than likely a chip that didn't make the grade at either 3.5 GHz or 4.0 GHz.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Good luck on getting an FX 8300 to 5 GHz. A 9590 most times won't do 5 GHz stable with all eight cores. An 8300 is more than likely a chip that didn't make the grade at either 3.5 GHz or 4.0 GHz.


I agree with this guy, you need very good cooling and a good board to handle it. I'm running 5175 on FX-6350, it sure as hell beats my VRMs up pretty darn good.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Good luck on getting an FX 8300 to 5 GHz. A 9590 most times won't do 5 GHz stable with all eight cores. An 8300 is more than likely a chip that didn't make the grade at either 3.5 GHz or 4.0 GHz.


That's exactly what they are. They've been around since Vishera's launch, but they were OEM-exclusive until recently. They aren't even particularly good low-power chips. The 8320E and 8370E fill that niche much better. 8300s are one bin away from 6350s.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That's exactly what they are. They've been around since Vishera's launch, but they were OEM-exclusive until recently. They aren't even particularly good low-power chips. The 8320E and 8370E fill that niche much better. 8300s are one bin away from 6350s.


I bet an overclocked 6350 would stomp the 8300 to be honest.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I agree with this guy, you need very good cooling and a good board to handle it. I'm running 5175 on FX-6350, it sure as hell beats my VRMs up pretty darn good.


Slowly but surely the ambient temps rise in my office from my 8320 rig.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> I bet an overclocked 6350 would stomp the 8300 to be honest.


I doubt







Forgetting that the 8300 will OC as well.


----------



## chrisjames61

Your not getting it. The 8300 is a chip that failed it's test to be either an 8350 or 8320. So how is it going to overclock well exactly?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Your not getting it. The 8300 is a chip that failed it's test to be either an 8350 or 8320. So how is it going to overclock well exactly?


The way these chips are binned and made into various FX-xxx0's is as follow

Quantity of modules operational, if all modules are ok it goes into FX-8xxx series, if one module is defective, it goes into FX-6xxx series, two defective, FX-4xxx series, three defective it goes to the trash (I think?)
Heat produced with a certain load. They put the chip on some sort of CPU bench test and monitor temperature at certain frequencies with certain loads and based on its results, it's classified from:

- FX-8100 to FX-9590 for eight cores (was only FX-8100 to FX-8350 before) (12 different chips, at different TDPs and frenquencies)
- FX-6100 to FX-6350 for six cores (5 different chips, at different TDPs and frenquencies)
- FX-4100 to FX-4350 for four cores (8 different chips, at different TDPs and frenquencies)

Some have been limited to OEMs only, some are brand exclusive and not sold and etc.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Keep in mind that the #1## and #2## chips are Zambezi while the #3## and 9000-series chips are Vishera.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Your not getting it. The 8300 is a chip that failed it's test to be either an 8350 or 8320. So how is it going to overclock well exactly?


Not very, but I'd say that any Vishera chip should hit 4GHz. Since the 6350 is a decent chip, let's assume it can get to 5GHz. That's 32 core-jiggahertz from the 8300 and 30 core-jiggahertz from the 6350. Yeah, I know, that's not a real measurement. However, it means that a lightly overclocked eight core should still be tied with a heavily overclocked six core. Since Vishera scales very well with frequency, the 6350 ought to edge ahead by a small margin, and the 8300 can still be pushed further.


----------



## Duality92

I'm getting cinebench scores of around 600-620 between 5.2ghz and 5.3ghz, if I remember correctly, if you want to compare. I have no idea what a 8300 can do so.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Your not getting it. The 8300 is a chip that failed it's test to be either an 8350 or 8320. So how is it going to overclock well exactly?


And 6350 is a failed 8300 as such.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> And 6350 is a failed 8300 as such.


Not really, a 6350 started as a 4 module CPU (as every other last FX series processor), but had a module malfunctioning, so they disable/laser it off. Then they check it's thermals and classed it as 6350, because during test it required lower than the required voltage for its bracket at a specific frequency, please check my post above.

A failed 8300 will become a 8150 or lower depending on how it does thermally at specific voltages/frequencies/loads.

edit: Technically, every FX processor is a failed 8350 (every processor from 8320 and lower) and every processor above 8350 are binned versions of it that performed above expected thermals. (appart from the 8350 of course)


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

An 8300 can't become an 8150. They're two totally different architectures. That's like saying a failed 4770k becomes a 3770k.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> An 8300 can't become an 8150. They're two totally different architectures. That's like saying a failed 4770k becomes a 3770k.


Well then, I thought the opposite, *but after a bit of googling*, I've learned differently. I still think a failed 8300 doesn't become a 6350, but I guess it would be a possibility.

Then all FX-x1xx processors start at FX-8150s and all FX-x3xx (and FX-x5xx) processors start as FX-8350s. Interesting.


----------



## BinaryDemon

Like my attempts to fit an H110 into an Antec 300? I built the H110's 'cage' out of a dish drying rack that I got for $1 at the dollar store. I did have to buy the bolts as well, since i didnt have any size 6 - 3" bolts laying around.



I can't cut a straight line with metal snips.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> And 6350 is a failed 8300 as such.
> 
> 
> 
> Not really, a 6350 started as a 4 module CPU (as every other last FX series processor), but had a module malfunctioning, so they disable/laser it off. Then they check it's thermals and classed it as 6350, because during test it required lower than the required voltage for its bracket at a specific frequency, please check my post above.
> 
> A failed 8300 will become a 8150 or lower depending on how it does thermally at specific voltages/frequencies/loads.
> 
> edit: Technically, every FX processor is a failed 8350 (every processor from 8320 and lower) and every processor above 8350 are binned versions of it that performed above expected thermals. (appart from the 8350 of course)
Click to expand...

 That's pretty much how it works for both AMD and Intel. Its about the binning and the thermals, TDP, and fully working (or not working modules, L3 cache ect.

The other thing that can happen is an otherwise fully functioning CPU can have parts disabled to meet the demand of a 'in short supply' popular model.

Remember the triple core AMD models? a lot of those Athlon 720/730/740's were fully functioning quads that had a core shut off because of the short supply and popularity to meet a price point (economics) and great value of the Athlon 720 for example.

The Athlon models were PhenomII's minus the L3 cache (usually in that case because the L3 was not functioning up to par)

Many of us (myself included ) had a more than one of the 720's tri cores that could have the 4th core re-activated by a feature that motherboard manufactures implemented in the BIOS of 790 chipsets or later that supported ACC function or in AOD to turn them back on. Some were found to be perfectly fine cores that were just shut off, in which case we turned them back on and OC'd them perfectly stable at normal voltages, while others were actually sub par, unstable, or just did not work. I had a interesting conversation with an AMD tech about this years ago.

The same thing went on with GPU's I purchased a quartet of 6950's that turned out to be full fledged HD 6970's on BIOS Setting #2. Actually we used to turn quite a few models into the next model up. The HD 5830 was a prime example of filling a slot with silicon that had less than full functioning shaders, ROP's, etc.

There were stories that AMD began fusing off the additional shaders/ROPS/etc or laser cut them, but it seemed to be a very popular selling point for them.



This was for an example a 6950, notice the 6970 specs however.

all four turned out to be full 6970's



Hoped that helped


----------



## DaveLT

Some sapphire 7950s were actually 7970 chips as well. As well as some R9 290s being R9 290xs that most likely were locked because they were a fail or to meet demand.


----------



## Vario

way back in the mid 2000s the whole ATI radeon line was unlockable, x800, x850 stuff. You could unlock pixel pipelines, or even flash to the next card model up. Was fun times


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon*
> 
> Like my attempts to fit an H110 into an Antec 300? I built the H110's 'cage' out of a dish drying rack that I got for $1 at the dollar store. I did have to buy the bolts as well, since i didnt have any size 6 - 3" bolts laying around.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't cut a straight line with metal snips.


I did a similar thing with my Antec 300v2, however I just removed half of the drive cage, and then I made an aluminum brace bar to support the 5.25 from the floor, held in with rivets. Looks like the 300 case + larger 280 radiator necessitated more surgery.

Files are really useful for cleaning up edges, you could give it a shot if you want to straighten the cuts. It can be tedious but the result is worth it if you want a non-ghetto rigged look.


----------



## Maintenance Bot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon*
> 
> Like my attempts to fit an H110 into an Antec 300? I built the H110's 'cage' out of a dish drying rack that I got for $1 at the dollar store. I did have to buy the bolts as well, since i didnt have any size 6 - 3" bolts laying around.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't cut a straight line with metal snips.


That actually looks pretty damm good. In the past I did a similar thing but I used chicken wire.


----------



## 66racer

Gentlemen please get back on topic with this thread.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Gentlemen please get back on topic with this thread.


You're referring to the talk about processors and graphics cards yes?
I believe the below quoted post will hopefully get it back on track







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BinaryDemon*
> 
> Like my attempts to fit an H110 into an Antec 300? I built the H110's 'cage' out of a dish drying rack that I got for $1 at the dollar store. I did have to buy the bolts as well, since i didnt have any size 6 - 3" bolts laying around.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't cut a straight line with metal snips.


Ghetto mount looks good for that cooler in an older case. good work.


----------



## Wanou

Cable comb out of a dry cleaning hanger !
Yeah this is how we do it !


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Cable comb out of a dry cleaning hanger !
> Yeah this is how we do it !
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very cool!


----------



## wooshna

Hmm ghetto rigging shinanigans huh!!!!!!

Heres mine













I've had this chair for oh.... 3 years now. Only last year did it start going to crap on me. So earlier this year i had a choice,

New chair (Mayline high back exec chair http://www.overstock.com/Office-Supplies/Mayline-Black-Leather-High-Back-Swivel-Tilt-Executive-Office-Chair/5843332/product.html?refccid=CXPT437LBRDZP7KL3JONYO223I&searchidx=29)

Or

27 inch 2560 x 1440p monitor ASUS PB278Q
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=asus%20pb278q&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDIQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.newegg.com%2FProduct%2FProduct.aspx%3FItem%3DN82E16824236294&ei=c5EKVMyiM9C6ogSYu4LABg&usg=AFQjCNESVbx-ztGSs7cXUMRiZdxF5rW1hQ&bvm=bv.74649129,d.cGU)

I picked the monitor LOL.

Then in april i had a choice again

Chair or First water cooling loop

WATER COOLING LOOP lol great $450 spent

then just last week the wife said we need a new chair or did you want your video card

Enter the Sapphire R9 290x vapor x
http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=CJjLVaZIKVLv2BdKI-gPRyIH4C667iJsEtqWkjs4Bpoib5pUCCAMQAVDds5hyYMnu3obIo4wbyAEBqgQiT9DIHF9PfYzS55CHckVwZTFcWYsqENgPOy84kdjhptS1_YAH1pfNLZAHA6gHpr4b&sig=AOD64_2z-pssvnM2z9oe32Un_AI1F__vGQ&ved=0CJcBENEM&adurl=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2OJ38O/%3Ftag%3Dgooghydr-20%26hvadid%3D55253939438%26hvpos%3D1o1%26hvexid%3D%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D12899623786900453043%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3Db%26hvdev%3Dc%26ref%3Dpd_sl_9r7vouwqjh_b

and with some duct tape peices of wood and metal some screws and electric tape my chair is fucntional again!!!

this is my shinanigans!!!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooshna*
> 
> Hmm ghetto rigging shinanigans huh!!!!!!
> 
> Heres mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had this chair for oh.... 3 years now. Only last year did it start going to crap on me. So earlier this year i had a choice,
> 
> New chair (Mayline high back exec chair http://www.overstock.com/Office-Supplies/Mayline-Black-Leather-High-Back-Swivel-Tilt-Executive-Office-Chair/5843332/product.html?refccid=CXPT437LBRDZP7KL3JONYO223I&searchidx=29)
> 
> Or
> 
> 27 inch 2560 x 1440p monitor ASUS PB278Q
> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=asus%20pb278q&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDIQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.newegg.com%2FProduct%2FProduct.aspx%3FItem%3DN82E16824236294&ei=c5EKVMyiM9C6ogSYu4LABg&usg=AFQjCNESVbx-ztGSs7cXUMRiZdxF5rW1hQ&bvm=bv.74649129,d.cGU)
> 
> I picked the monitor LOL.
> 
> Then in april i had a choice again
> 
> Chair or First water cooling loop
> 
> WATER COOLING LOOP lol great $450 spent
> 
> then just last week the wife said we need a new chair or did you want your video card
> 
> Enter the Sapphire R9 290x vapor x
> http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=CJjLVaZIKVLv2BdKI-gPRyIH4C667iJsEtqWkjs4Bpoib5pUCCAMQAVDds5hyYMnu3obIo4wbyAEBqgQiT9DIHF9PfYzS55CHckVwZTFcWYsqENgPOy84kdjhptS1_YAH1pfNLZAHA6gHpr4b&sig=AOD64_2z-pssvnM2z9oe32Un_AI1F__vGQ&ved=0CJcBENEM&adurl=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2OJ38O/%3Ftag%3Dgooghydr-20%26hvadid%3D55253939438%26hvpos%3D1o1%26hvexid%3D%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D12899623786900453043%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3Db%26hvdev%3Dc%26ref%3Dpd_sl_9r7vouwqjh_b
> 
> and with some duct tape peices of wood and metal some screws and electric tape my chair is fucntional again!!!
> 
> this is my shinanigans!!!


Quote:


> I've had this chair for oh.... 3 years now. Only last year did it start going to crap on me.


I misread that line at first and had a good guffaw, ROFL


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Cable comb out of a dry cleaning hanger !
> Yeah this is how we do it !


I've never been that good working with wire hangers. It's so _clean!_


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Very cool!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I've never been that good working with wire hangers. It's so _clean!_


Thank you guys !
My second best is a paper clip dowel ! Yeah that's rock'n roll.


----------



## Pawelr98

I don't think it needs any comment.
That's how "koliber" looks like.


----------



## mestapho

Finally.. an area I shine in..




The BFG 9800 Mod complete with binding layer of Duct Tape and a finishing layer of electrical tape actually works well.

Not in the picture, I have a total of 3 psu's for the monster.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mestapho*
> 
> Finally.. an area I shine in..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The BFG 9800 Mod complete with binding layer of Duct Tape and a finishing layer of electrical tape actually works well.
> 
> Not in the picture, I have a total of 3 psu's for the monster.


y so tape?


----------



## mestapho

Cause I cut stock shroud to fit fan tape was logical thing for stealth.. Oh forgot to mention there's a Mountain Dew can backing the fan to help direct airflow.

Card never gets above 160f no matter what with fan running no more than 60%.

Plans to finalize BF


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> y so tape?


y 3 psu for 1 vga?


----------



## GamingBandit

My ghetto desk cost a massive $25.75 to build made from 2 bar stools i paid $10 for them and some wood flooring i paid $15 for it and some screws to hold the wood flooring to the bar stools .75cent for the screws and ya get this.Oh and included is the optional removable bluray player holder and my sub keeps it from falling over oh and ya cant use FFB with the G27 with this desk or else it will fall over (happend 4 times already)


----------



## arealMESSiah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GamingBandit*
> 
> My ghetto desk cost a massive $25.75 to build made from 2 bar stools i paid $10 for them and some wood flooring i paid $15 for it and some screws to hold the wood flooring to the bar stools .75cent for the screws and ya get this.Oh and included is the optional removable bluray player holder and my sub keeps it from falling over oh and ya cant use FFB with the G27 with this desk or else it will fall over (happend 4 times already)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










for the desk and mouse pad!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Im out of thermal paste you guys think automotive Grease will work or will it dry out ?


----------



## wooshna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Im out of thermal paste you guys think automotive Grease will work or will it dry out ?


give it a little ime and it starts to dry, then the oil starts spreading everywhere lol. i don't think automotive grease would be a good conductor of heat.


----------



## Vario

dont use grease bad idea. You could try tooth paste.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-July-2011/1334

Note that article says toothpaste stopped cooling well after several hours. Also consider mayonnaise. Aluminum foil might work.


----------



## Blaise170

Aluminum foil would be worse. Just buy some thermal paste.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooshna*
> 
> give it a little ime and it starts to dry, then the oil starts spreading everywhere lol. i don't think automotive grease would be a good conductor of heat.


That's why nobody ever says "thermal grease" unless ... 'Murican slang?







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> dont use grease bad idea. You could try tooth paste.
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-July-2011/1334
> 
> Note that article says toothpaste stopped cooling well after several hours. Also consider mayonnaise. Aluminum foil might work.


Toothpaste lel. One of my favorite articles


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Don't use chocolate. Chocolate is actually worse than no thermal paste. But yes, all sorts of household gels and gel-like foods can be used as thermal compound. However...




...you should be careful.


----------



## Wanou

Just put some Mayonnaise. Works wonders


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Just put some Mayonnaise. Works wonders


For a short while.


----------



## Vario

http://forums.overclockersclub.com/?showtopic=164465


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That man is a true hero.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> http://forums.overclockersclub.com/?showtopic=164465


This guy is one big hero i think








Thanks for sharing this link


----------



## Maintenance Bot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> http://forums.overclockersclub.com/?showtopic=164465


This guy is our modern day Einstein. Thanks for posting, Vario.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> http://forums.overclockersclub.com/?showtopic=164465


This MADE my day. Thank you so much for posting this!


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> http://forums.overclockersclub.com/?showtopic=164465


I call shenanigans. This test was obviously a setup. Everyone knows that you should use Degree, as it is clinically proven to keep you five degrees cooler than the leading antiperspirant.


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> http://forums.overclockersclub.com/?showtopic=164465
> 
> 
> 
> I call shenanigans. This test was obviously a setup. Everyone knows that you should use Degree, as it is clinically proven to keep you five degrees cooler than the leading antiperspirant.
Click to expand...

roflmao


----------



## Dyaems

Speaking of ghetto, we have this old thread in our local forums where they fix old, dead hardware using a liquid dishwashing soap. The thread started in 2006 and until now it is still getting posts, although not as much as before.

I may try it soon with my dead 8GB RAM and report it here


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Speaking of ghetto, we have this old thread in our local forums where they fix old, dead hardware using a liquid dishwashing soap. The thread started in 2006 and until now it is still getting posts, although not as much as before.
> 
> I may try it soon with my dead 8GB RAM and report it here


Wait what?


----------



## Dyaems

Well, after some researching/reading it seems that basically you just clean the PCB of the problematic/dead hardware, and let the sun "bake" the board. Similar method when one's computer got flooded and want to reuse it, so you have to clean it and have it dry outside using direct sunlight.

And it does not work 100% of the time so its best to try with out of warranty/old stuffs.


----------



## animal0307

Makes sense. Clean corrosion off the board. I'd give it a shot on dead hardware before I chuck it.


----------



## MCCSolutions

This Ghetto enough? Rubbermaid Tub portable electronics lab(Originally a Tacktical UHF repeater installed lol)


----------



## Blaise170

I have that same UPS, surprised you lug that thing around.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> I have that same UPS, surprised you lug that thing around.


Yea lol pretty beefy but thats why I like it and the XL has the expansion connector for an external battery bank. I replaced the original ones inside with 12ah SLAs


----------



## DiaSin

Looks clean enough from the front, everything in its place..



But behind the main display..



There is also a bag of chopsticks between the book and the file-box to give the monitor enough downward tilt to be usable, as it is an old CCFL lit LCD, not an LED like my other screens, so the viewing angles are atrocious. I somehow managed to arrange it so that even if the monitor somehow gets knocked forwards a bit its balanced in such a way that it wants to lean back towards the wall again.


----------



## Bluemustang

Not sure if this is too clean to qualify as ghetto but here it is. I realized the kraken g10s i bought wouldnt fit on my gtx 970s, at least the fan was worthless, not sure if the screw holes line up. Either way saved myself 60 bucks by doing it myself.

Havnt finished yet. Had to run back to home depot for another pack of nuts and bolts after i realized i could use the mesh vent covers from my HAF 932 case to hold the VRM heatsinks on and provide mounting pressure as well to further reduce my temps and make sure they never fall off







That was an awesome surprise. I was worried if those heavy copper ones would ever fall off and damage other components. Now not only is that no longer an issue but i have mounting pressure.

Hopefully i should finish up the rest tomorrow. On both cards.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Not sure if this is too clean to qualify as ghetto but here it is. I realized the kraken g10s i bought wouldnt fit on my gtx 970s, at least the fan was worthless, not sure if the screw holes line up. Either way saved myself 60 bucks by doing it myself.
> 
> Havnt finished yet. Had to run back to home depot for another pack of nuts and bolts after i realized i could use the mesh vent covers from my HAF 932 case to hold the VRM heatsinks on and provide mounting pressure as well to further reduce my temps and make sure they never fall off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was an awesome surprise. I was worried if those heavy copper ones would ever fall off and damage other components. Now not only is that no longer an issue but i have mounting pressure.
> 
> Hopefully i should finish up the rest tomorrow. On both cards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Theres a thread for this.

Edit: I see you already posted it there.


----------



## Bluemustang

Thought this was the ghetto mod thread?...


----------



## 0493mike

Looks awesome. Its ghetto enough, you made it out of other stuff. So it ought to be ghetto.

Nice job.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Not sure if this is too clean to qualify as ghetto but here it is. I realized the kraken g10s i bought wouldnt fit on my gtx 970s, at least the fan was worthless, not sure if the screw holes line up. Either way saved myself 60 bucks by doing it myself.
> 
> Havnt finished yet. Had to run back to home depot for another pack of nuts and bolts after i realized i could use the mesh vent covers from my HAF 932 case to hold the VRM heatsinks on and provide mounting pressure as well to further reduce my temps and make sure they never fall off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was an awesome surprise. I was worried if those heavy copper ones would ever fall off and damage other components. Now not only is that no longer an issue but i have mounting pressure.
> 
> Hopefully i should finish up the rest tomorrow. On both cards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


GhettoMan would rub his chin with folded arms while nodding his approval


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> GhettoMan would rub his chin with folded arms while nodding his approval


*nod*


----------



## RnRollie

ya know ghettoman should wear glasses held together with band-aids...


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> ya know ghettoman should wear glasses held together with band-aids...


Presenting.. GHETTO MAN'S GLASSES!



My glasses broke right at the bridge shortly before the appointment to get new ones a couple of months back. That is the spine of an old PS2 game box, trimmed to length and held to the top of the frames with epoxy. I wore my glasses that way for about a week and a half until the new ones were ready.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Getto anti static wrist band


----------



## Wanou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Presenting.. GHETTO MAN'S GLASSES!
> 
> 
> 
> My glasses broke right at the bridge shortly before the appointment to get new ones a couple of months back. That is the spine of an old PS2 game box, trimmed to length and held to the top of the frames with epoxy. I wore my glasses that way for about a week and a half until the new ones were ready.


ahahahahh !


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Getto anti static wrist band


Do you have a 1Ohm diode on the end of that?


----------



## DaveLT

You should have a 1megaohm resistor on it for it to be any useful as a anti static band


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OHHH thanks guys... did not know.... :/.. i learned sumthing today .. whats the need for the 1 MEG resistor??


----------



## Mike The Owl

What do you do when you break your jigsaw....use a drill of course.



What do you do if your VRM's are in a hot spot and you can't get good airflow across them....



Yep pull out the I/O cover and stick a fan there.

One cant have enough fans.


----------



## Gareth Ward

I agree with the following statement: "One cant have enough fans."


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gareth Ward*
> 
> I agree with the following statement: "One cant have enough fans."


Nope you cant!!



There are now 16 fans in my case ( but that includes the power and the H80i).

I like fans!


----------



## Gareth Ward

My previous case had 11 case fans all slapped in somewhere. If it fits it can stay.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Nope you cant!!
> 
> 
> 
> There are now 16 fans in my case ( but that includes the power and the H80i).
> 
> I like fans!


you must construct additional fans


----------



## Dyaems

That case is bad, use this case instead:


----------



## ThijsH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> That case is bad, use this case instead:


rofl


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> That case is bad, use this case instead:


... Did it never occur to them that they could just do a water loop for the amount of effort that went into that.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> ... Did it never occur to them that they could just do a water loop for the amount of effort that went into that.


I dont think that was the point lol


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> OHHH thanks guys... did not know.... :/.. i learned sumthing today .. whats the need for the 1 MEG resistor??


So that static does not just flow through ground and zap stuff anyway.


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Not sure if this is too clean to qualify as ghetto but here it is. I realized the kraken g10s i bought wouldnt fit on my gtx 970s, at least the fan was worthless, not sure if the screw holes line up. Either way saved myself 60 bucks by doing it myself.
> 
> Havnt finished yet. Had to run back to home depot for another pack of nuts and bolts after i realized i could use the mesh vent covers from my HAF 932 case to hold the VRM heatsinks on and provide mounting pressure as well to further reduce my temps and make sure they never fall off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was an awesome surprise. I was worried if those heavy copper ones would ever fall off and damage other components. Now not only is that no longer an issue but i have mounting pressure.
> 
> Hopefully i should finish up the rest tomorrow. On both cards.


Ok guys, it ended up taking me a lot longer than i thought it would (turned out to be more of a pain than i thought) but i finally finished. Pics below as well as a few extras cause im wondering if thats safe with how much i had to bend the tubes? I should have gotten AIOs with more flexible tubing.

My case went from fairly decent to a birds nest with this upgrade, i sure am glad i didnt have a smaller case haha. My 240mm CPU rad liquid temp is running about 5c hotter now too ;/

I really like what i was able to do with the VRM area. Now i have 2 120mm fans on my haf932 door pointed at the vrms. Think thats good enough or should i get some small fans to stick between the cards facing directly at the VRMs?

So my load temps in crysis 3 at 1560mhz and +87mv is 42c and 47c max, mostly staying around 40 and 45. Think that 5c spread is tim application or mounting pressure differences, or might it just be differences between the chips?

Man that was a headache but im pleased







WHO NEEDS FULL LOOPS!!!


----------



## Duality92

dat cable management.


----------



## Bluemustang

There isnt much more that can be done, the back behind the motherboard tray already has so many cables routed back there for cable management that the door cant fully close.

But you could comment on more than just that


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> There isnt much more that can be done, the back behind the motherboard tray already has so many cables routed back there for cable management that the door cant fully close.
> 
> But you could comment on more than just that


Fine fine







Overall it's a great idea. though, with that many AIO's I would daisy chain them together to save some tubing and add a swiftech microres


----------



## Wicked x Josh

I never wanted to join this club but here I am. Thanks to a small smoke cloud and fried cpu/gpu motheboard (it's been a long day) I am.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wicked x Josh*
> 
> 
> 
> I never wanted to join this club but here I am. Thanks to a small smoke cloud and fried cpu/gpu. Here I am.


See im the cup half full kind of guy. NEW PARTS and you didnt have to dump water on them to qualify the purchase


----------



## Wicked x Josh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> See im the cup half full kind of guy. NEW PARTS and you didnt have to dump water on them to qualify the purchase


But when the new parts are all downgrades that cup just got dumped out from full to half full, aka emptying it. So the glass got half empty now.

Went from a Maximus V Gene to a Gigabyte B75M with a whopping 1 Sata 3 plug. Also went from a 3770k to a 3570k.

And all of it will be getting returned in exactly 14 days as I didn't have the money really for any of this.

Guess the "half full" part of this is that somehow I was able to just plug in all my HDDs and they all run perfectly. No loss of data across the 3. No missing file paths. No reinstalls. Nothing.

And the real positive is I had just unplugged the 980 right before the smoke cloud of death popped out the back of the motherboard frying everything connected at the time.


----------



## 0493mike

Wow that sure was a close call. I've had a mobo fry once and I know its not much fun. Glad you saved your new card and data.

Hey Bluemustang very nice job. And thats cool how you used the mesh for the heat sinks. I know how it is, my side panel is a bear to close because of all the cable's, take's some real work to get it to latch.

Does the bottom cards radiator intake air. That might be why your cpu is warmer. Or your case needs more fresh air coming in. Kind of like positive pressure thing. I dont know but awesome work there. Now OC them bad boys and see what the lottery gave ya.


----------



## Bluemustang

No of course not, both gpus are set to exhaust. Thats one of the reasons i wanted to do this, gigabytes windforce coolers raised my cpu temp by a good 10-15c versus my old blower style 7970. And while swapping to AIOs that exhaust air has reduced my cpu temps a lot compared to the windforce, its still about 5c hotter than 1 7970 blower fan. All in all its more than worth it though lol. CPU temps still dont exceed 60c in games. 240mm Antec kuhler is plenty.


----------



## DaveLT

You probably need a fan hanging over the GPUs at the front side of them with extra pressure to blow the exhaust air out of the way







(Front side from the front of the case)


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> You probably need a fan hanging over the GPUs at the front side of them with extra pressure to blow the exhaust air out of the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Front side from the front of the case)


yeah, one of these would do just fine










like this


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yeah, one of these would do just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like this


Nice, blow the parts of your computer all apart


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yeah, one of these would do just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, blow the parts of your computer all apart
Click to expand...

No one ever said it was an elegant or perfect solution... that's why it's in the Ghetto Rigging thread.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> No one ever said it was an elegant or perfect solution... that's why it's in the Ghetto Rigging thread.


Just.. If anyone actually TRIES this.. for the love of god use an electric one. We don't want anyone passing out from fumes in here.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> No one ever said it was an elegant or perfect solution... that's why it's in the Ghetto Rigging thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Just.. If anyone actually TRIES this.. for the love of god use an electric one. We don't want anyone passing out from fumes in here.
Click to expand...

OR direct the exhaust out a well sealed window. Mini chimney, perfectly safe-ish


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> OR direct the exhaust out a well sealed window. Mini chimney, perfectly safe-ish


Don't you have to mix oil and gas for the gas ones? Plus gas costs more than electricity. Electric seems like a better option. Isn't the whole idea of ghetto rigging to save money? Thats why my 3rd monitor is sitting on top of an upended filebox (and a book, and a bag of chopsticks) behind my main monitor instead of nicely vesa-mounted.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> No one ever said it was an elegant or perfect solution... that's why it's in the Ghetto Rigging thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Just.. If anyone actually TRIES this.. for the love of god use an electric one. We don't want anyone passing out from fumes in here.
Click to expand...

OR direct the exhause
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> OR direct the exhaust out a well sealed window. Mini chimney, perfectly safe-ish
> 
> 
> 
> Don't you have to mix oil and gas for the gas ones? Plus gas costs more than electricity. Electric seems like a better option. Isn't the whole idea of ghetto rigging to save money? Thats why my 3rd monitor is sitting on top of an upended filebox (and a book, and a bag of chopsticks) behind my main monitor instead of nicely vesa-mounted.
Click to expand...

Only for the 2 stroke motors. And sure, electricity is cheaper but if you already have a gas leaf blower a couple bucks worth of gas to experiment with could be fun. Or, you could run it off natural gas. Absolutely none of that is practical for anything more than a few minutes, but neither is using a leaf blower as a case fan xD


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> OR direct the exhause
> Only for the 2 stroke motors. And sure, electricity is cheaper but if you already have a gas leaf blower a couple bucks worth of gas to experiment with could be fun. Or, you could run it off natural gas. Absolutely none of that is practical for anything more than a few minutes, but neither is using a leaf blower as a case fan xD


On the upside you wouldn't need a fan on the CPU heatsink anymore


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> On the upside you wouldn't need a fan on the CPU heatsink anymore


Another option occurred to me. Put the WHOLE THING outside the window, extend the blower tube with some drainage pipe. Then you don't have to put up with the noise right next to you.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> On the upside you wouldn't need a fan on the CPU heatsink anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another option occurred to me. Put the WHOLE THING outside the window, extend the blower tube with some drainage pipe. Then you don't have to put up with the noise right next to you.
Click to expand...

hey if you wanna go out the window... rig up a water cooling loop in winter, and then get the hottest running chip possible. add or subtract radiators to keep it running right around 5 degrees... when you turn off a rad it all drains out onto the ground, then find a way to blast the water through the rad to eliminate air bubbles...


----------



## bbond007

parts list:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



tent stakes
bicycle tire



cheers


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> 
> 
> parts list:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> tent stakes
> bicycle tire
> 
> 
> 
> cheers


Wah? Why? HUH? I'm so confused right now.. why is this even necessary.. how is it beneficial to have the fans stacked on top of each other?


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Wah? Why? HUH? I'm so confused right now.. why is this even necessary.. how is it beneficial to have the fans stacked on top of each other?


Take a look inside the Noctua fan and you'll see only the heatsink, it looks like the blades and motor supports are removed and it serves as a shroud for the fan mounted on top of it.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Wah? Why? HUH? I'm so confused right now.. why is this even necessary.. how is it beneficial to have the fans stacked on top of each other?


does not increase CFM but does increase static pressure. It has an additive effect.

Initially I was going to put the other 140mm fan on the bottom in a push-pull.

Unfortunately in that position I could not install the side of the case because it would not clear my 200mm side fan. oops...

I had already spent the energy reshaping my tent stakes, so decided to the fans in a series.

It looks like I am getting slightly better performance in silent mode than was getting before in standard mode with the Noctua alone.

If I were to put a shroud between the fans to separate them, it would probably be more optimum.

Thanks for looking









cheers!


----------



## DaveLT

Fans stacked together ... Doesn't improve anything. I once did like a 12 fan array and it only is as powerful as the weakest fan in the chain


----------



## Vario

Dave, did you use reverse rotation fans?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Dave, did you use reverse rotation fans?


They are rare mate.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> They are rare mate.


I think Pabst makes them, for example these may be counter clock wise rotating http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ebm-papst/4412FGM/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt8mcbdCMUjU6np6cTX3WcsB6R7y7yfYIE%3d
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spec Sheet*
> Air exhaust over struts. Direction of rotation counter-clockwise, seen on rotor.


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok guys, it ended up taking me a lot longer than i thought it would (turned out to be more of a pain than i thought) but i finally finished. Pics below as well as a few extras cause im wondering if thats safe with how much i had to bend the tubes? I should have gotten AIOs with more flexible tubing.
> 
> My case went from fairly decent to a birds nest with this upgrade, i sure am glad i didnt have a smaller case haha. My 240mm CPU rad liquid temp is running about 5c hotter now too ;/
> 
> I really like what i was able to do with the VRM area. Now i have 2 120mm fans on my haf932 door pointed at the vrms. Think thats good enough or should i get some small fans to stick between the cards facing directly at the VRMs?
> 
> So my load temps in crysis 3 at 1560mhz and +87mv is 42c and 47c max, mostly staying around 40 and 45. Think that 5c spread is tim application or mounting pressure differences, or might it just be differences between the chips?
> 
> Man that was a headache but im pleased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WHO NEEDS FULL LOOPS!!!


You better put some fan blowing that vrm because with no airflow they are gonna burn in no time...


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> You better put some fan blowing that vrm because with no airflow they are gonna burn in no time...


Zip tie a couple 120mm fans to the tubes pointing at the cards and call it good.


----------



## Vario

Not sure how ghetto this could be considered but it didn't cost me very much. My router and modem overheat and I need a fan for use while soldering. This is an 115V AC fan. Model is NMB MAT pn#4715MS-12T-B30.
http://www.nmbtc.com/fans/part-numbers/AC-Axial-115V/4715MS-12T-B30-A00/3638

It has a very nice bearing and frame is made of metal. It could be quieter though, but its a 2600 RPM fan. Undervolting it with the fan controller doesn't work well so it runs full out.




Total price was $22. $8 fan (eBay) $2 grills, $2 brackets, $10 cord with knob (pn#OK-501).


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Not sure how ghetto this could be considered but it didn't cost me very much. My router and modem overheat and I need a fan for use while soldering. This is an 115V AC fan. Model is 4715MS-12T-B30
> http://www.nmbtc.com/fans/part-numbers/AC-Axial-115V/4715MS-12T-B30-A00/3638
> 
> It has a very nice bearing and frame is made of metal. It could be quieter though, but its a 2600 RPM fan. Undervolting it with the fan controller doesn't work well so it runs full out.


You'd need a dimmer switch


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> You'd need a dimmer switch


Note the dimmer inline on cord (OK-501 fan controller cord), but yes. Sadly fan doesn't like being undervolted. You can run it about 3/4, below that it makes a loud whine which must be avoided. Below 1/2, it won't turn, also bad. Between 3/4 and 100%, well 100% makes less motor noise.

When you kill the power it stays spinning for a very long time.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Note the dimmer inline on cord (OK-501 fan controller cord), but yes. Sadly fan doesn't like being undervolted. You can run it about 3/4, below that it makes a loud whine which must be avoided. Below 1/2, it won't turn, also bad. Between 3/4 and 100%, well 100% makes less motor noise.
> 
> When you kill the power it stays spinning for a very long time.


Is it a controller made for AC?


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Is it a controller made for AC?


Yes. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556089346.html


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Yes. http://www.coolerguys.com/840556089346.html


Well then. I remember now that my first venture into watercooling involved a inline duct fan and a heater core. I had an actual dimmer switch on the inline duct fan and it did the same!


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Well then. I remember now that my first venture into watercooling involved a inline duct fan and a heater core. I had an actual dimmer switch on the inline duct fan and it did the same!


Nice ages ago a friend and I made a waterblock from a cut up heatsink and lexan with barbs.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Nice ages ago a friend and I made a waterblock from a cut up heatsink and lexan with barbs.


I still have mine in my parents garage attic, it was made from a 2" copper coupling, flattened out then lapped with two elbows joined together and lapped half way with barbs on both ends (kind of hard to explain). I had two submerged aquarium pumps powering the whole.

All to cool a old dell laptop motherboard with a *AMD TL-60*


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> You better put some fan blowing that vrm because with no airflow they are gonna burn in no time...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> I really like what i was able to do with the VRM area. Now i have 2 120mm fans on my haf932 door pointed at the vrms.


Do you not read? Not only do i have basically the best VRM solution bar water, but i do have some very powerful fans pointed at them. If people run their systems with nothing at all except airflow on their vrms (albeit not very well, but still works) then my solution with top end copper (like 6-7 times the price of the aluminum variety) PLUS mounting pressure (which almost noone would use when using such VRM heatsinks) is an extremely effective setup.


----------



## Asymmetry

Recently recased my PC and my gigabyte 570s were just way too loud. typically I would simply add a watering bracket and AIO water loops but cant justify spending in on old cards. Can upgrade to a 970gtx but department of finance is doing an audit.

So here I am ghetto


----------



## Dyaems

Put that Windforce shroud on a frame for display


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> Recently recased my PC and my gigabyte 570s were just way too loud. typically I would simply add a watering bracket and AIO water loops but cant justify spending in on old cards. Can upgrade to a 970gtx but department of finance is doing an audit.
> 
> So here I am ghetto


I totally did that type of fan mod to my 280x. Bent the heatsink with the tip ties but totally worth it for the temps. I did this mod because I had no other use for my fans










Also my 750w PSU had a dead fan when I first bought it. Never returned so I ended up adding one myself


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> I totally did that type of fan mod to my 280x. Bent the heatsink with the tip ties but totally worth it for the temps. I did this mod because I had no other use for my fans
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also my 750w PSU had a dead fan when I first bought it. Never returned so I ended up adding one myself
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I did the same thing with the psu fan with a power supply i found that was about ready to be tossed out with some stuff at college. coolmax 700W, took a thermaltake fan, mounted and ran the molex cable outside the psu to connect to it's molex cable.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

My ASRock Z97 board came in last night. The M.2 slot was damaged. One razor blade, one sewing needle, and one flashlight later, I think it's fixed. A wire was bent and looked like it was touching another. Sadly, I lack an M.2 drive with which to test. Might need to pick up a 512GB XP941.


----------



## Chargeit

*CD's and a laptop cooler to raise left monitor...*



*Ordered monitor mount that allows for height adjustment of side mounts to get everything nice and neat... Left monitor still too low. Though the mount made up for about 2" of the drop.*



*After some digging around in my garage.*



*Fixed!*



*I still need to do a few things. I'm going to get some square washers for the part I used to rise, secure them better with some bottom screws, and cut down the white shelf I'm using for a foundation. Still, the proof of concept worked out well.*


----------



## Roxycon

Which mount is that and what are your monitor sizes?


----------



## Chargeit

I got to thinking, why go buy screws when I have a ton of zip ties.

New and improved... very stable now. =D Will still add some square washers.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roxycon*
> 
> Which mount is that and what are your monitor sizes?


It's a "*Ergotech Triple Desk Stand with Telescopic Wings*". Great stand, really easy to remove the monitors. I'm happy I paid extra and got a high quality stand. My monitors are 24". It holds up to 27". Now that I have the side worked out, I should be able to play with the placement more.

*Highly recommended.*
http://www.amazon.com/Ergotech-Triple-Stand-Telescopic-100-D16-B03-TW/dp/B007BD0MPM

_*This is one of the things that makes it so great.*_


----------



## Asymmetry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> Put that Windforce shroud on a frame for display


LOL its going back on, played for 30min and smelt the rubber pads I was using to dampen vibrations and the fan burning. Wife wasn't happy (she hates things that auto ingnite) so getting a asus 970 instead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> I totally did that type of fan mod to my 280x. Bent the heatsink with the tip ties but totally worth it for the temps. I did this mod because I had no other use for my fans


Working ok still? Ties not melted


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> I totally did that type of fan mod to my 280x. Bent the heatsink with the tip ties but totally worth it for the temps. I did this mod because I had no other use for my fans
> 
> 
> 
> Working ok still? Ties not melted
Click to expand...

Yep, even at 93c with furmark lots of voltage they lasted. Just use the really thick ones instead


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*


Sexy with those sandals with socks doesn't match. lol


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> Sexy with those sandals with socks doesn't match. lol


Lol.

The quick release connections make that stand easy to work with. I can quickly remove any monitor to work with it. Just like me ghetto rigging that riser. Had it been a different mount, working with it and testing it out would of been much more of a pain. I don't even think the more expensive ones costing $400 (vs $184 - $224 for this one) have that.

Oh, and the thing is built like a tank and is stable. A all around great mount.

Even with 3 different screens, I was able to get them easily lined up. Sure, I had to rig that left monitor, but, the thing was like 3 inches too low, vs 1/2" to low in that picture I showed. I don't blame the mount for not being able to fix such a large difference in monitor mounting locations and depth.

Anyway, my rig worked great. My monitors are all now the same height, and looking good. Great mount, and a good ghetto rig too boot.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I recently did some major mods to a 2.5" hot swap bay but I wanted to test it before going any further on it. I had planned on mounting it temporarily in a 3.5" to 5.25" adapter and install it in place of the 3.5" swap bay already in my computer. However, when I started to remove the 3.5" swap bay so I could use it's power and data cables to test the modified swap bay, it dawned on my three remaining brain cells that, if I removed the SATA cable for the e-SATA port on the swap bay, I would have the divil's own time getting it back in. So, I just let the swap bay dangle by the cable and shoved the 2.5" swap bay in the hole and connected it up. It looked like heck but I was able to determine the mods worked (I replaced the Molex connector and cable and the SATA cable hanging out the back with a standard 22 pin SATA power and data connector and removed the two USB 3.0 connectors and pass through cables I didn't need).





One of the things I did to make the mods was to shorten a SATA cable to 2 1/4" (including connectors).



This is the cable compared to the original size:


----------



## Dyaems

is that a sata data cable? is it hard to shorten it?


----------



## DaveLT

It is. You have to make sure both wires are exactly the same length or you have signal infidelity leading to dropouts etc etc.


----------



## DAI_JAZZER

Had an old old gigabyte galaxy 2 watercooling kit. Drilled the 775 bracket holes bigger then bolted to 1150. Also added a heater matrix from a fiat punto.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> is that a sata data cable?...


Yes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> ...is it hard to shorten it?


No. See post #1540 here.


----------



## Jump3r




----------



## Wanou

Not mine. I found it today on internet and laugh out loud.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Not mine. I found it today on internet and laugh out loud.


Oh. Wow. That's, ...well, ..., über ghetto?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanou*
> 
> Not mine. I found it today on internet and laugh out loud.


Yea, when it gets to that point, it's time to let it go.









Or take the damned thing apart and clean it!


----------



## Simmons572

Not quite as spectacular as some of the others I've seen on here, and I know it's been done before, but yeh.

Homemade dust filter for the base of my Air 540 using a piece of an old t-shirt and some weak magnets. I don't use the hot swap bays, so no concern about wiping HDDs.


----------



## Vario

I use a window screen with hot glue on it. Cosmos 1000's stock bottom filter is too small and too far from the fan, so I cut out the bottom plastic and put the window screen across.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Not mine, but really interesting









Xperia Z1 cover with fitted a 70mm coolermaster fan







to prevent overheating and keeping cool the processor and the batery, for extended lifetime.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> 
> 
> Not quite as spectacular as some of the others I've seen on here, and I know it's been done before, but yeh.
> 
> Homemade dust filter for the base of my Air 540 using a piece of an old t-shirt and some weak magnets. I don't use the hot swap bays, so no concern about wiping HDDs.


I cut up a black shirt to do about the same thing for my backup rigs case. The two vents by the hdd bays made/make no sense. This worked out great.





The best part is, I used "Penguin" Christmas Duct tape to secure it. Has been a fixture for the better part of a year. I need to take a picture of that one of these days. Maybe next time I clean it.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> Not mine, but really interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Xperia Z1 cover with fitted a 70mm coolermaster fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to prevent overheating and keeping cool the processor and the batery, for extended lifetime.


I actually use a Delta blower fan on my phone when I'm overclocking/benching it







It's damn loud and pushing close to 200 CFM out of the nozzle which is about 1 sq-inch xD


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I actually use a Delta blower fan on my phone when I'm overclocking/benching it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's damn loud and pushing close to 200 CFM out of the nozzle which is about 1 sq-inch xD


There is no delta blower that can push out 200cfm. The highest spec is the bfb1212h and that is 60.39cfm and not 200.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> There is no delta blower that can push out 200cfm. The highest spec is the bfb1212h and that is 60.39cfm and not 200.


feels a lot more than that. I guess because it comes out of such a small exhaust it seems like a lot more


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> feels a lot more than that. I guess because it comes out of such a small exhaust it seems like a lot more


Pressure mate. A smaller nozzle usually means higher pressure


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Pressure mate. A smaller nozzle usually means higher pressure


Oh I know the pressure is high on those, they just feel like they output much more than what their spec sheets indicates.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I actually use a Delta blower fan on my phone when I'm overclocking/benching it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's damn loud and pushing close to 200 CFM out of the nozzle which is about 1 sq-inch xD


*LOL*


----------



## Widde

Antec Threehundred repainted in Nato Green and "improved" cooling ^^ Drilled out holes under the psu and another 120mm fan. Paint not done yet though.


----------



## Dyaems

^

needs more zip ties and duct tape


----------



## DiaSin

I thought I might as well post my elbow rest here. The book keeps the rest of my arm at the same height as the main surface of my desk, or close enough as makes no difference. I wrapped it in seran wrap so I wouldn't ruin it.



Ignore the residue marks on the pullout tray.. something to do with the previous owner of the desk, I bought it at the salvation army store. I haven't been able to get the marks off..


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I thought I might as well post my elbow rest here. The book keeps the rest of my arm at the same height as the main surface of my desk, or close enough as makes no difference. I wrapped it in seran wrap so I wouldn't ruin it.
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the residue marks on the pullout tray.. something to do with the previous owner of the desk, I bought it at the salvation army store. I haven't been able to get the marks off..


If it is adhesive marks, use Goof Off. That stuff is uber powerful.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> If it is adhesive marks, use Goof Off. That stuff is uber powerful.


"Uber Powerful" is the reason I haven't used that yet.. I worry about ruining the finish of the desk. I have Goo Gone, which I think is pretty much the same thing, but I haven't used it for that reason.


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> "Uber Powerful" is the reason I haven't used that yet.. I worry about ruining the finish of the desk. I have Goo Gone, which I think is pretty much the same thing, but I haven't used it for that reason.


Then i would recommend you trying Elmers sticky out and a plastic blade.
And yes, it is very powerful. It stripped the paint right off my Enthoo Primo...


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phantatsy*
> 
> Then i would recommend you trying Elmers sticky out and a plastic blade.
> And yes, it is very powerful. It stripped the paint right off my Enthoo Primo...


Would Goo Gone be closer to Sticky Out or Goof Off?


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Would Goo Gone be closer to Sticky Out or Goof Off?


Never used Goo Gone, so I can't speak from experience. But I do have both bottles next to me and the sticky out smells like a citrus-y cleaner while the goof off smells like pure lighter fluid. Just lightly apply the Goo Gone. I kind of went mad crazy with the Goof Off.


----------



## Duality92

I know goo gone works great to remove adhesive residue.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I know goo gone works great to remove adhesive residue.


I know it does. I learned about it because I used it in a professional context, working in the backroom of a secondhand shop, cleaning stuff to make it look nice for resale. I just have never used it on a surface like the stained wood of my desk, so I was not sure what it would do to the finish, if anything. I mostly was using it on electronics.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Depending on the adhesive, you can just take a finger and rub it over the residue. It should roll up into balls up glue and dirt which you can then trash.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Depending on the adhesive, you can just take a finger and rub it over the residue. It should roll up into balls up glue and dirt which you can then trash.


I got rid of most of it that way, but it left a thin layer.


----------



## Vario

dilute the goo gone with water.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

what is this now the goo gone thread?...lol


----------



## MrFumbles91

Mount a cylinder res with zippies?

(Also my coolant isnt algae ridden is just the pic)


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> 
> 
> Mount a cylinder res with zippies?
> 
> (Also my coolant isnt algae ridden is just the pic)


Maybe just a really bad case of goo? try Goo Gone!


----------



## Hand_Grenade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mount a cylinder res with zippies?
> 
> (Also my coolant isnt algae ridden is just the pic)


I did the samething on my first watercooling build. I didn't have a drill handy, but a huge amount of zip ties.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hand_Grenade*
> 
> I did the samething on my first watercooling build. I didn't have a drill handy, but a huge amount of zip ties.


instead of zipties why not use some goo gone ...by spishack


----------



## cravinmild

Or fill the goo gone bottle with coolent and zip tie that to the case as a res


----------



## MrFumbles91

Jesus H.

Unsubbing


----------



## Zebeyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> Jesus H.
> 
> Unsubbing


Sorry. It was just a very easy continuation of the goo-talk previously with the green color









I'm interested in what mechanisms of the camera would give that green color though. Do you have something else in the room that somehow was reflected?


----------



## cptnighthawk666

the algae lens


----------



## nepas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> Jesus H.
> 
> Unsubbing


You have been here a week......

(Please someone fill the blank)


----------



## Phantatsy

Useful information is useful.

On the subject, though.

Found this and thought "wow".


----------



## Werne

In case someone doesn't understand what's going on in these pics, I took this ghetto-rigged USB wifi dongle, hooked it up to this ghetto-rigged internal USB header and mounted it in the 5.25" bays with a rubber band and a dead marker pen. The end result is embedded wifi, no more tripping over the bloody thing.









Also, yes, that hard drive is suspended with rubber bands and yes, those front USB/audio headers are held to the front panel with hot glue and surgical tape on one side.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Duck tape the side panel back on and you will be good to go!


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Duck tape the side panel back on and you will be good to go!


Nah, I used masking tape, that way it's easier to take the side panel off when I need to.


----------



## MCCSolutions

A short story of me and Masking tape: Staring Me, and 3M


----------



## Bluemustang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Duck tape the side panel back on and you will be good to go!


Not a grammar nazi, but that one always gets me. Its not ducK (the bird) tape its ducT (like AC ducting) tape


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Either spelling is acceptable. Duck is a brand and duct is generic, rubberized fabric tape IIRC.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Not a grammar nazi, but that one always gets me. Its not ducK (the bird) tape its ducT (like AC ducting) tape


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Either spelling is acceptable. Duck is a brand and duct is generic, rubberized fabric tape IIRC.


correct. We used to sell duck tape in the hardware store I used to work at (college job)


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> correct. We used to sell duck tape in the hardware store I used to work at (college job)


Also, it was originally CALLED "Duck Tape" when it was developed for the military because of its ability to repel water.


----------



## jellybeans69

Something of good old 2006 or so. Superglue action


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Either spelling is acceptable. Duck is a brand and duct is generic, rubberized fabric tape IIRC.


Well it's a cloth tape


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Not a grammar nazi, but that one always gets me. Its not ducK (the bird) tape its ducT (like AC ducting) tape


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bluemustang*
> 
> Not a grammar nazi, but that one always gets me. Its not ducK (the bird) tape its ducT (like AC ducting) tape
Click to expand...

Marketing ploy to attract people with less-than-average intelligence. Sorry, but if it says "Duck Tape," I ain't buying it. I refuse to give in.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Strictly speaking, duct (or Duck) isn't even for use on ducts. It can't handle the heat of heating ducts and doesn't last very long on even cooling ducts. True duct tape is made of high temperature adhesive lined heavy aluminum foil.


----------



## nepas

All this talk of Ducks..........

IT.HAS.TO.BE.DONE.(WOOHOO)


----------



## ThijsH

^ Duck tapes. WOOHOO!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Strictly speaking, duct (or Duck) isn't even for use on ducts. It can't handle the heat of heating ducts and doesn't last very long on even cooling ducts. True duct tape is made of high temperature adhesive lined heavy aluminum foil.


Yes, the heavy duty stuff which is also used in the aviation industry - mostly in cargo & courier where it has earned the name "speed-tape" because of its ability to speedily "fix" issues (like a hole punched in the fuselage by a forklift) which would otherwise have the aircraft grounded till repaired.

Of course, it is not only used in courier & cargo... the cheaper the low-cost-tickets offered by the bargain-bin operators, the more frequently it is used. Think about that the next time you book a "only $4.99 flight-across-the-world" ticket


----------



## DotBeta

The lengths I had to go to to save 10 bucks lol. my old psu's 4 pin power cable was way too short to make it behind the mobo mount and over the top so I lengthened it a little...



I used butt connectors and heat shrink tubing and wrapped in electrical tape so it was legit for a hack job, got an extra 5 or so inches which solved the problem. I've moved on to a better psu since







.


----------



## Nightfallx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> The lengths I had to go to to save 10 bucks lol. my old psu's 4 pin power cable was way too short to make it behind the mobo mount and over the top so I lengthened it a little...
> 
> 
> 
> I used butt connectors and heat shrink tubing and wrapped in electrical tape so it was legit for a hack job, got an extra 5 or so inches which solved the problem. I've moved on to a better psu since
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


the extent people will go to gain a few more inches


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightfallx*
> 
> the extent people will go to gain a few more inches


well I've heard of people making deals with crossroads demons for a few extra inches


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightfallx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> The lengths I had to go to to save 10 bucks lol. my old psu's 4 pin power cable was way too short to make it behind the mobo mount and over the top so I lengthened it a little...
> 
> 
> 
> I used butt connectors and heat shrink tubing and wrapped in electrical tape so it was legit for a hack job, got an extra 5 or so inches which solved the problem. I've moved on to a better psu since
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> the extent people will go to gain a few more inches
Click to expand...

That could hurt!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Yesterday I snapped the part that holds the speakers to the headband on my HD201 headphones. I needed to something working and fast. Found some self tapping screws in my basement for a 5 minute fix. The best thing about this, is that they now sit a little tighter on my ears, sealing out some background noise and slightly increasing the bass.


----------



## Dyaems

That would sound like an HD800 if you used zipties and duct tape instead







j/k


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> well I've heard of people making deals with crossroads demons for a few extra inches


----------



## Phantatsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> well I've heard of people making deals with crossroads demons for a few extra inches


Do you mean Fergus Rodric MacLeod?


----------



## raidmaxGuy

This is not my work, but is really worthy of this thread, found it on overclockers.com


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raidmaxGuy*
> 
> This is not my work, but is really worthy of this thread, found it on overclockers.com
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Not actually that bad


Honestly with a bit of spray paint, that could actually be a really cool overclocking platform.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raidmaxGuy*
> 
> This is not my work, but is really worthy of this thread, found it on overclockers.com


That would make for a sweet testbench


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Here's how I mounted my NIC on my server:


----------



## burticus

So I have an Antec 300 case, which has a 140mm fan on the top. It sits in a section of my desk that had shelves which I removed to shove the PC case into. Not so great for ventilation... I've since cut some holes in the side of the desk (for the side intake) and opened up the back of the desk a little bit to allow for easier cable management and some airflow.

What I've noticed is that during heavy use / gaming, the system really pours out heat from the top 140mm exhaust fan, which has nowhere to go so it spills out the front of the desk directly onto me. Kind of annoying when I'm sitting at my desk gaming (nice in the winter though!).

So I had a thought, what if I could rig up some kind of airflow duct to sit on top of the case and guide hot air hot of the back opening, pushing hot air out the back instead of into my lap?

Here are some pics. My materials are a cardboard 12 pack container from some HEB sparkling water, and some packing tape. Enjoy. Oh and yeah, my opening at the back of the desk is horrible at best, it's too tight to get the jigsaw in there properly and my handsaws are all too big.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> That would make for a sweet testbench


You could easily lose a few fingers with that set up.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> what is this now the goo gone thread?...lol


Goo Gone is useless. WD-40 will get rid of almost any adhesive residue.


----------



## Scorpion49

On request, I'm reposting this here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Not exactly a PC, my Maytag MTB2156GEB fridge apparently is notorious for failing panasonic fans. I noticed a few days ago the freezer became an ice palace and then the defrost cycle would kick in hard for hours and the floor would be all wet. At the same time the beer cabinet would be getting very warm. I found the condenser fan in the back of the freezer was dying, a flick with a knife on the blades got it running for a few hours at a time. It finally died completely on Friday night, and nowhere local sells a replacement. I first got some ice and filled some coolers with the food so they wouldn't go bad until my replacement arrives next week, but then I had a better idea.
> 
> I checked out the bracket and the fan hole and realized a 120mm fan would fit perfectly on there, so I decided to put a fan I got to work. I have a pair of Notcua Industrial 2000RPM IP67 fans that are supposedly mostly waterproof and work in a vast range of temperatures. I got out a crappy power supply and some fan extensions and zip tied the little bugger to the bracket. Going on day 3 and the fan is frosted over but still going strong!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fan:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The failed pos panasonic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My sweet $15 PSU:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't really see the fan but its in there:


And an update to the original, the fan served flawlessly for over a week, I finally got my replacement in today and snapped a quick pic of how the fan was mounted in there.


----------



## DotBeta

Oh my God, out of all the crazy crap I've done how could I forget this treasure:



This beauty of a TT-1225t case fan I've had since 2006 and is still alive and kicking has been retired, but you wouldn't believe how long I ran it this way in my old case as exaust lol. One day I was tinkering inside my case while it was running and something hit one of the blades snapping it off and making the fan vibrate uncontrollably, I wasn't just gonna thow it away, NO WAY! I snapped off the other 2 blades to rebalance it and put it back to work albit anything over 1200 rpm causes it to sound like a jet engine but damn does it push those cfm's hahaha.

I have it tucked away with my other pc stuff.


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> You could easily lose a few fingers with that set up.


If it can't lop off a few digits, it aint ghetto enough!

Jokes, but seriously I think it's not so dangerous since it'll be closed up when you turn it on. And there is a fan grille too.


----------



## micro5797

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> What I've noticed is that during heavy use / gaming, the system really pours out heat from the top 140mm exhaust fan, which has nowhere to go so it spills out the front of the desk directly onto me. Kind of annoying when I'm sitting at my desk gaming (nice in the winter though!).
> 
> So I had a thought, what if I could rig up some kind of airflow duct to sit on top of the case and guide hot air hot of the back opening, pushing hot air out the back instead of into my lap?


Good idea there. My friend had a similar situation. Rather than just duct work, we placed an 8" house fan in the back of the desk to pull the air around the case and out the back of the desk.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> You could easily lose a few fingers with that set up.


The fan blades arent metal, it's just a Lasko fan that was painted. It could still hurt you pretty bad though


----------



## PR-Imagery

$100 for a actual gpu bracket or a penny worth of string?

Clearly the string won.


----------



## hartofwave

God get a vacuum cleaner on that.......


----------



## PR-Imagery

Meh, has a least another 6 months before it starts to effect cooling


----------



## DaveLT

Any amount of dust affects cooling.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Prove it. My H50 is pretty caked, seen no lose in cooling at all.


----------



## Master__Shake

had to make my own molex to sata connector to power some drives.

tried what was on my seaosonic power supply and it looked like hell





wish power supply companies would layout sata cables like this


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> had to make my own molex to sata connector to power some drives.
> 
> tried what was on my seaosonic power supply and it looked like hell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *wish power supply companies would layout sata cables like this*


The reason they don't is not all cases have the same HDD spacing. However, they get a little carried away with the amount of space they do leave between the connectors on the cables.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> had to make my own molex to sata connector to power some drives.
> 
> tried what was on my seaosonic power supply and it looked like hell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wish power supply companies would layout sata cables like this


FSP does it








but there is no set specification on how wide HDDs should be within each other for some cases cram it so tight airflow is non existent.
*cough* fractal design *cough*


----------



## Nyxx

My sister was complaining about how slow her netbook was. It's quite old. The hardware consisting of a single gig of ram, a N455 Atom, and a intel 3100 media accelerator (slow as ****)

But it should have been able to at least browse the internet without choking to death. So after spending a few minutes checking things out, I realized it was seriously downthrottling.



This was the old CPU cooler. Having a small amount of pure silicon thermal paste, and basically a slab of aluminum, the proccessor got up to 80C.

So figuring some extra airflow would help, i took it out of its old slim case, and stuck it in a cardboard box, which I used the top as a door to the guts. I reinforced the top with a slab of thin plastic so that it wouldnt bow or flex.


(Note the reason I have a usb keyboard on it, its because the old keyboard was missing keys.)
Now I was getting somewhere. My "Slight" Mod took the highest heat down to 70C When I popped holes in the side to do a makeshift grill and taped a old case fan in and wired it up to usb for half speed, it took the highest temp down to 60C. I was quickly realizing that the cooler was the problem. If I could get the temp down, I could always overclock using a program to change the FSB.

So after a bit if work, I changed the cpu cooler in for this:



With that heatpipe on, My temps max out at 30C while running prime 95 for a couple hours. A rather large temperature decrease. (I also used some copper thermal paste to replace it.)

The sad part of this project was that I was unable to change the fsb, or use GMAbooster to increase that measly 400mhz on the media accelerator.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyxx*
> 
> My sister was complaining about how slow her netbook was. It's quite old. The hardware consisting of a single gig of ram, a N455 Atom, and a intel 3100 media accelerator (slow as ****)
> 
> But it should have been able to at least browse the internet without choking to death. So after spending a few minutes checking things out, I realized it was seriously downthrottling.
> 
> 
> 
> This was the old CPU cooler. Having a small amount of pure silicon thermal paste, and basically a slab of aluminum, the proccessor got up to 80C.
> 
> So figuring some extra airflow would help, i took it out of its old slim case, and stuck it in a cardboard box, which I used the top as a door to the guts. I reinforced the top with a slab of thin plastic so that it wouldnt bow or flex.
> 
> 
> (Note the reason I have a usb keyboard on it, its because the old keyboard was missing keys.)
> Now I was getting somewhere. My "Slight" Mod took the highest heat down to 70C When I popped holes in the side to do a makeshift grill and taped a old case fan in and wired it up to usb for half speed, it took the highest temp down to 60C. I was quickly realizing that the cooler was the problem. If I could get the temp down, I could always overclock using a program to change the FSB.
> 
> So after a bit if work, I changed the cpu cooler in for this:
> 
> 
> 
> With that heatpipe on, My temps max out at 30C while running prime 95 for a couple hours. A rather large temperature decrease. (I also used some copper thermal paste to replace it.)
> 
> The sad part of this project was that I was unable to change the fsb, or use GMAbooster to increase that measly 400mhz on the media accelerator.


What did your sis say? did she mind it not being portable anymore?


----------



## Nyxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> What did your sis say? did she mind it not being portable anymore?


On the contrary, it still has a battery in it, so its still portable xD With the fan not turning on as often, most of the time its dead silent and that lack of fan gives it quite a bit more lifespan on battery.


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Prove it. My H50 is pretty caked, seen no lose in cooling at all.


Run Prime 95 for 15 mins before cleaning it, and then for 15 mins after you clean it. I'd bet my right nut it runs cooler.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyxx*
> 
> On the contrary, it still has a battery in it, so its still portable xD With the fan not turning on as often, most of the time its dead silent and that lack of fan gives it quite a bit more lifespan on battery.


Might need add duct tape from time to time.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Prove it. My H50 is pretty caked, seen no lose in cooling at all.
> 
> 
> 
> Run Prime 95 for 15 mins before cleaning it, and then for 15 mins after you clean it. I'd bet my right nut it runs cooler.
Click to expand...

I would but I have no desire at all to take it apart and clean it.


----------



## Red1776

I never considered this to be a 'Ghetto' deal but what the hey.

This was my 2nd quad build of the HD 5xxx era. (4 x HD 5870)

The CM V8 wa designed for 250w dissapation but needed some help with 4 air 5870's below. (the 4th 5870 is via a PCIe extender cable as well

I built an extruded aluminum rig to add fans on either side of the V8 for more flow for my heavily OC'd 1100T (4.4Ghz)

worked rather well


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Meh, has a least another 6 months before it starts to effect cooling


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> Prove it. My H50 is pretty caked, seen no lose in cooling at all.


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*


Hahaha. +rep


----------



## Dyaems

seeing that picure reminds me of those "dead rat inside a computer" pictures


----------



## PR-Imagery




----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> seeing that picure reminds me of those "dead rat inside a computer" pictures


lol I have found everything from rodent skeletons to live cockroaches in computers lol, small town computer biz problems lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> lol I have found everything from rodent skeletons to live cockroaches in computers lol, small town computer biz problems lol


http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/671-dirt-filth-mess-computer-pc.html


----------



## PR-Imagery




----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/671-dirt-filth-mess-computer-pc.html


Whats funny is when I googled "Dirty Computer" I got something completely different lol


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*


Nice ghetto "dust filter" you got there, sir


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*


Disgusting.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> had to make my own molex to sata connector to power some drives.
> 
> tried what was on my seaosonic power supply and it looked like hell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wish power supply companies would layout sata cables like this


Just out of curiosity, what do you duplicate/produce with that setup?


----------



## Master__Shake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raidmaxGuy*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, what do you duplicate/produce with that setup?


mostly ripping multiple cd/dvds

then im not sure what i'll do with it.

it was mostly out of boredom and i had a ton of spare bits kicking around.

it's really a waste of a 4770k.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*


Every time I see that gif, I can only envision this exchange:

Girl #1: "Oh no!"

Girl #2: "Oh no!"

Guy: "AAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWW YYYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*















Jesus Christ...


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I just finished cleaning out a computer from a smoker >_>

I had to strip the entire thing down to make sure there was nothing left. I really hate smoker's dust. It's so disgusting.


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I just finished cleaning out a computer from a smoker >_>
> 
> I had to strip the entire thing down to make sure there was nothing left. I really hate smoker's dust. It's so disgusting.


true story


----------



## Master__Shake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I just finished cleaning out a computer from a smoker >_>
> 
> I had to strip the entire thing down to make sure there was nothing left. I really hate smoker's dust. It's so disgusting.


normal dust is terrible smokers dust is terribad!


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I just finished cleaning out a computer from a smoker >_>
> 
> I had to strip the entire thing down to make sure there was nothing left. I really hate smoker's dust. It's so disgusting.


I charge 25% more for a repair if I have to deal with roaches or smoking filth.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> I charge 25% more for a repair if I have to deal with roaches or smoking filth.


Interesting lol, how is that working out? I always figured people would get offended if I did something like that.....


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Interesting lol, how is that working out? I always figured people would get offended if I did something like that.....


I smoke & id be really offended if someone tried to charge me more because of it.








although for people who don't smoke? it would I guess? be a bit bad for you.

id actually say pet hair is the worst! if your cat likes sitting on top of your rig.


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> I charge 25% more for a repair if I have to deal with roaches or smoking filth.


WHat exactly is smoking filth/dust? like cigarette ashes or does the smoke do something to the dust?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> WHat exactly is smoking filth/dust? like cigarette ashes or does the smoke do something to the dust?


It makes it all sticky and dark brown with gunkishy.


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> It makes it all sticky and dark brown with gunkishy.


Ew, this is why I smoke outside and never in my house lol. I knew it stain walls but that would be a major pain to clean.


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Interesting lol, how is that working out? I always figured people would get offended if I did something like that.....


I've had a few people tell me to pound sand, but as someone that doesn't smoke, tar riddled dust/hair is terrible to deal with. It'd be different if you could just use compressed air to blow it out, but that stuff likes to cling to anything and everything. The quickest way to kills PC fans is to smoke around it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> I smoke & id be really offended if someone tried to charge me more because of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although for people who don't smoke? it would I guess? be a bit bad for you.
> 
> id actually say pet hair is the worst! if your cat likes sitting on top of your rig.


If it offends someone, well, then too bad. It offends me when people smoke around their PCs and then request that I repair something that smells like it crawled out of a Chinese gambling den.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> WHat exactly is smoking filth/dust? like cigarette ashes or does the smoke do something to the dust?


The smoke leaves tar residue over everything and causes the dust to form a nasty, dark brown glue-like substance that is a major pain in the ass to clean. The only thing worse than a smoker's PC is one that's been infested with cockroaches.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Cigarette smoke deposit a thin layer of tar on whatever it contacts. Dust sticks to that tar and gets covered with another thin layer of tar. The cycle goes on until someone cleans it off. Besides being sticky as...well...tar, the longer the stuff sets, especially on a warm or hot component, the stickier it gets until it is literally baked on, making it difficult to impossible to remove.

If I was a business charging someone to clean out a computer, I would charge by the hour. That way, I won't lose money and the customer gets charged a fair amount. If a smoking customer doesn't want to pay for the extra time required to clean a computer exposed to cigarette smoke, then the customer needs to quit smoking.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Cigarette smoke deposit a thin layer of tar on whatever it contacts. Dust sticks to that tar and gets covered with another thin layer of tar. The cycle goes on until someone cleans it off. Besides being sticky as...well...tar, the longer the stuff sets, especially on a warm or hot component, the stickier it gets until it is literally baked on, making it difficult to impossible to remove.
> 
> If I was a business charging someone to clean out a computer, I would charge by the hour. That way, I won't lose money and the customer gets charged a fair amount. If a smoking customer doesn't want to pay for the extra time required to clean a computer exposed to cigarette smoke, then the customer needs to quit smoking.


Exactly what we do at my place of work


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> I've had a few people tell me to pound sand, but as someone that doesn't smoke, tar riddled dust/hair is terrible to deal with. It'd be different if you could just use compressed air to blow it out, but that stuff likes to cling to anything and everything. The quickest way to kills PC fans is to smoke around it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it offends someone, well, then too bad. It offends me when people smoke around their PCs and then request that I repair something that smells like it crawled out of a Chinese gambling den.
> The smoke leaves tar residue over everything and causes the dust to form a nasty, dark brown glue-like substance that is a major pain in the ass to clean. The only thing worse than a smoker's PC is one that's been infested with cockroaches.


meet your worse nightmare lol


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> meet your worse nightmare lol


Hahaha


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> meet your worse nightmare lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


At least he is smoking outside.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> The only thing worse than a smoker's PC is one that's been infested with cockroaches.


I'll just leave this here...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> ... Did it never occur to them that they could just do a water loop for the amount of effort that went into that.




Badly used meme. :/


----------



## Atham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> The only thing worse than a smoker's PC is one that's been infested with cockroaches.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just leave this here...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Only in Australia. XD

Wow. That is some scary stuff right there, not from a fear of snakes but from finding something like that in my beloved rig.


----------



## Dyaems

I googled "giant spider inside computer" and fortunately there are none


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atham*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> The only thing worse than a smoker's PC is one that's been infested with cockroaches.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just leave this here...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Only in Australia. XD
> 
> Wow. That is some scary stuff right there, not from a fear of snakes but from finding something like that in my beloved rig.
Click to expand...

hey did Coolermaster come out with a new heat snake?......nevermind


----------



## raidmaxGuy

While we are on the topic of dirty computers.....



A dust bunny the size of an actual bunny.....


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raidmaxGuy*
> 
> While we are on the topic of dirty computers.....
> 
> 
> 
> A dust bunny the size of an actual bunny.....


Holy hell, was that PC on shag carpet?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> Holy hell, was that PC on shag carpet?


LEL shag carpet


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Cigarette smoke deposit a thin layer of tar on whatever it contacts. Dust sticks to that tar and gets covered with another thin layer of tar. The cycle goes on until someone cleans it off. Besides being sticky as...well...tar, the longer the stuff sets, especially on a warm or hot component, the stickier it gets until it is literally baked on, making it difficult to impossible to remove.
> 
> If I was a business charging someone to clean out a computer, I would charge by the hour. That way, I won't lose money and the customer gets charged a fair amount. If a smoking customer doesn't want to pay for the extra time required to clean a computer exposed to cigarette smoke, then the customer needs to quit smoking.


I agree yet I disagree lol in the years I have been cleaning PCs not one has taken an hour lol. If it takes you an hour or more to clean a pc somthing is terribly wrong lol


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Cigarette smoke deposit a thin layer of tar on whatever it contacts. Dust sticks to that tar and gets covered with another thin layer of tar. The cycle goes on until someone cleans it off. Besides being sticky as...well...tar, the longer the stuff sets, especially on a warm or hot component, the stickier it gets until it is literally baked on, making it difficult to impossible to remove.
> 
> If I was a business charging someone to clean out a computer, I would charge by the hour. That way, I won't lose money and the customer gets charged a fair amount. If a smoking customer doesn't want to pay for the extra time required to clean a computer exposed to cigarette smoke, then the customer needs to quit smoking.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree yet I disagree lol in the years I have been cleaning PCs not one has taken an hour lol. If it takes you an hour or more to clean a pc somthing is terribly wrong lol
Click to expand...

Have you ever actually cleaned anything with tar deposits left by a smoker?


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Yes, the heavy duty stuff which is also used in the aviation industry - mostly in cargo & courier where it has earned the name "speed-tape" because of its ability to speedily "fix" issues (like a hole punched in the fuselage by a forklift) which would otherwise have the aircraft grounded till repaired.


In the Air Force, we called it "100 Mile An Hour Tape"


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I agree yet I disagree lol in the years I have been cleaning PCs not one has taken an hour lol. If it takes you an hour or more to clean a pc somthing is terribly wrong lol


Wait 'till you have to deal with tar.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Wait 'till you have to deal with tar.


I have, not pretty, even when I did smoke, I tried my best to not smoke infront of my PC. Windex and elbow grease seemed to do the trick though.


----------



## Duality92

I seriously think I'm the only one cleaning my PC at work.... all PCs here have tons of dust in and out of them, it's sad.


----------



## Nightfallx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I seriously think I'm the only one cleaning my PC at work.... all PCs here have tons of dust in and out of them, it's sad.


probably because it's a work pc. it breaks you get a new one lol.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightfallx*
> 
> probably because it's a work pc. it breaks you get a new one lol.


it's the beauty of things lol my i5 2500's (last work rig) hard drive died. Instead of replacing it, he gave me a brand new slightly upgraded lenovo with i5 4570 lol


----------



## Dyaems

I've been using this office PC of mine for more than 3 years, I wonder whats inside it... The case is locked by the management so I can't just open it and clean it. PSU (pretty sure its generic) is making a rattling noise on bootup and that also worries me lol. Already reported it long time ago and still no resolution on the IT department


----------



## Nightfallx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> it's the beauty of things lol my i5 2500's (last work rig) hard drive died. Instead of replacing it, he gave me a brand new slightly upgraded lenovo with i5 4570 lol


Luckily I work in the IT department so I get new stuff all the time







.


----------



## Duality92

Bah this Lenovo is actually pretty well equiped. (see sig) I asked for "minor" upgrades to the IT because he's kind of a friend of mine lol


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Have you ever actually cleaned anything with tar deposits left by a smoker?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Wait 'till you have to deal with tar.


Ha obviously. Never taken that long. Bleach does the trick easily, on the case at least. As far as the compoinets go you should only remove the dust and stuff off of the PCBs with a dry cloth and compressed air otherwise you are doing more harm than good...


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ha obviously. Never taken that long. Bleach does the trick easily, on the case at least. As far as the compoinets go you should only remove the dust and stuff off of the PCBs with a dry cloth and compressed air otherwise you are doing more harm than good...


Dry cloth and compressed air? I have a feeling you've only had to clean PCs with minimal tar build-up.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ha obviously. Never taken that long. Bleach does the trick easily, on the case at least. As far as the compoinets go you should only remove the dust and stuff off of the PCBs with a dry cloth and compressed air otherwise you are doing more harm than good...
> 
> 
> 
> Dry cloth and compressed air? I have a feeling you've only had to clean PCs with minimal tar build-up.
Click to expand...

Ditto.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Have you ever actually cleaned anything with tar deposits left by a smoker?


I HAVE! It sucked. It was a gamecube I got off craigslist. Took it apart, cleaned chips with rubbing alcohol, put all plastic bits in bucket of hot bleach in the sun,. Got rid of the smell 100%.


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I HAVE! It sucked. It was a gamecube I got off craigslist. Took it apart, cleaned chips with rubbing alcohol, put all plastic bits in bucket of hot bleach in the sun,. Got rid of the smell 100%.


I bought a Xbox 360 for $20 a few weeks ago that was infested with roaches. It's been sitting in a garbage bag with roach bait since then. I'm dreading what I'll find when I take it apart in a few days, I just need to make sure the roaches are dead before I do so; I'll make sure to take plenty of pictures when I do!


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I HAVE! It sucked. It was a gamecube I got off craigslist. Took it apart, cleaned chips with rubbing alcohol, put all plastic bits in bucket of hot bleach in the sun,. Got rid of the smell 100%.


I feel your pain.
When my uncle (chain smoker) died in 2008 I inherited most of his clothing since he was very close to my size. The worst was this Sherwood receiver on my desk I run my TV through.. It was a good 2 hours of cleaning before the smell was gone.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> I bought a Xbox 360 for $20 a few weeks ago that was infested with roaches. It's been sitting in a garbage bag with roach bait since then. I'm dreading what I'll find when I take it apart in a few days, I just need to make sure the roaches are dead before I do so; I'll make sure to take plenty of pictures when I do!


I shivered reading that.


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I shivered reading that.


Oh man, if you could smell it.. ugh, roaches smell so bad.


----------



## AKA1

My desk a few years ago. Bought a desk from office depot when i moved to a new house


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKA1*
> 
> 
> 
> My desk a few years ago. Bought a desk from office depot when i moved to a new house


That's brilliant.. I might actually do that myself.


----------



## AKA1

I had to have my chair raised all the way up to use the key board and im 6ft tall


----------



## Waan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKA1*
> 
> I had to have my chair raised all the way up to use the key board and im 6ft tall


I'm 6'6, so this should be perfect.


----------



## AKA1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> I'm 6'6, so this should be perfect.


all you need is 8 cinder blocks 1/4 plywood or thicker if you dont want it to bend down. I just used a 2x4 screwed from the top so no bending. cost me less than $20


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> Ha obviously. Never taken that long. Bleach does the trick easily, on the case at least. As far as the compoinets go you should only remove the dust and stuff off of the PCBs with a dry cloth and compressed air otherwise you are doing more harm than good...
> 
> 
> 
> Dry cloth and compressed air? I have a feeling you've only had to clean PCs with minimal tar build-up.
Click to expand...

Ditto.


----------



## MCCSolutions

More than one way to use EK Products lol


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> More than one way to use EK Products lol


Ömm...








you repaired wall with those?


----------



## MCCSolutions

Yep


----------



## LaGsHoCk

Check this thread out for a full description. It has been running for the last week, but I could pull it apart for a few pictures of the inside if anyone is interested.


----------



## Unknownm

Does Smoking thc create dust? maybe it's time for me to consider vap if the side panel is out of my case


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Does Smoking thc create dust? maybe it's time for me to consider vap if the side panel is out of my case


It does not but the tar embeds itself to dust and it's VERY sticky and hard when dried by heat.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Does Smoking thc create dust? maybe it's time for me to consider vap if the side panel is out of my case


Smoke in general leaves a film on things .. one that often collects dust and is very hard to clean.


----------



## PR-Imagery

Clean it, made no difference.


----------



## Pawelr98

Got some of polymer capacitors.

Before:

After

And testing before assembling again.

And during assembly I got a small electrocution.I forgot to unplug the power when assembling.
Nothing serious, Small pain in one finger for ~5minutes.

I still have to replace the 100uF 400V capacitor, it should come tommorow.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PR-Imagery*
> 
> *Clean it*, made no difference.




Most of the radiator fins are still clogged up.


----------



## PR-Imagery

A fine layer of dust on the fins


----------



## Nyxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Got some of polymer capacitors.
> 
> Before:
> 
> After
> 
> And testing before assembling again.
> 
> And during assembly I got a small electrocution.I forgot to unplug the power when assembling.
> Nothing serious, Small pain in one finger for ~5minutes.
> 
> I still have to replace the 100uF 400V capacitor, it should come tommorow.


What is that? A raspberry pi? Why did you change the caps?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyxx*
> 
> What is that? A raspberry pi? Why did you change the caps?


bottom pic looks like the back of a tv/monitor.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyxx*
> 
> What is that? A raspberry pi? Why did you change the caps?


This is a control board of Fujitsu W19-1.
I changed the caps because the display is almost 10 years old.
I still have to change 100uF 400V capacitor as the display still has trouble booting up(but after it boots up it can work for many hours without trouble).


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> This is a control board of Fujitsu W19-1.
> I changed the caps because the display is almost 10 year old.
> I still have to change 100uF 400V capacitor as the display still has trouble booting up(but after it boots up it can work for many hours without trouble).


Called it!


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaGsHoCk*
> 
> Check this thread out for a full description. It has been running for the last week, but I could pull it apart for a few pictures of the inside if anyone is interested.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyxx*
> 
> What is that? A raspberry pi? Why did you change the caps?


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Got some of polymer capacitors.
> 
> Before:
> 
> After
> 
> And testing before assembling again.
> 
> And during assembly I got a small electrocution.I forgot to unplug the power when assembling.
> Nothing serious, Small pain in one finger for ~5minutes.
> 
> I still have to replace the 100uF 400V capacitor, it should come tommorow.


You lift weights and work on your pc at the same time? That is true multitasking!


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> I charge 25% more for a repair if I have to deal with roaches or smoking filth.


Worst pc I ever opened up had a combination of cat and dog hair, tar and nicotine and it was from the right near the Atlantic Ocean and smelled like low tide.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I just finished cleaning out a computer from a smoker >_>
> 
> I had to strip the entire thing down to make sure there was nothing left. I really hate smoker's dust. It's so disgusting.


You sure it wasn't just from the air in Trenton or Newark?


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> I agree yet I disagree lol in the years I have been cleaning PCs not one has taken an hour lol. If it takes you an hour or more to clean a pc somthing is terribly wrong lol


You aren't doing a very thorough job then. I take components out and wash them with a mild soap and water. Then rinse them well. Everything except for drives and the processor itself. I then let everything dry for two days. Then I reassemble everything. I have done this to literally thousands of computers since about 1988.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I seriously think I'm the only one cleaning my PC at work.... all PCs here have tons of dust in and out of them, it's sad.


Are they all on the floor?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Are they all on the floor?


yup. I don't really get to decide either.


----------



## ShortySmalls

My home-made quad monitor stand, double sided tape behind the monitors holding them tightly together n all.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> yup. I don't really get to decide either.


I hate seeing pc's on the floor. At home I keep all mine on my desk.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> My home-made quad monitor stand, double sided tape behind the monitors holding them tightly together n all.


Is that a ghetto VESA mount I see? Very nice! How stable is it?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> I hate seeing pc's on the floor. At home I keep all mine on my desk.


I usually do to, but right now my PC is in the living room so it's besides the couch with a 25 ft HDMI cable going to the TV


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Waan*
> 
> I charge 25% more for a repair if I have to deal with roaches or smoking filth.
> 
> 
> 
> Worst pc I ever opened up had a combination of cat and dog hair, tar and nicotine and it was from the right near the Atlantic Ocean and smelled like low tide.
Click to expand...


----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> yup. I don't really get to decide either.
> 
> 
> 
> I hate seeing pc's on the floor. At home I keep all mine on my desk.
Click to expand...

o.0 you would put a corsar 900D on the desk just so it wouldn't be on the floor?


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djthrottleboi*
> 
> o.0 you would put a corsar 900D on the desk just so it wouldn't be on the floor?


I don't have a Corsair 900D. I assume it is a full tower which is overkill for 99.9% of the population. I do have a C70, a 350D, a Arc Midi R2, a Lian Li PC-7HWX and more and none are on the floor which would lead them to suck in dust like a vacuum cleaner.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> You lift weights and work on your pc at the same time? That is true multitasking!


I use this weight to protect the desk.
Also when I have to punch something with hammer(for example mod the metal cover of power circuits in monitor) I also use weights to protect the floor(but it's damn loud, try to hit a weight with a hammer).


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Is that a ghetto VESA mount I see? Very nice! How stable is it?


None of them are VESA, except the top one. The bottom monitors (the 23" AOC) are all non-VESA. Its just some metal hose clamps with the screws on them that tighten them and i put a pipe in line with the stand thing, which allows it to slide into a 90* fitting on the stand.

Its very stable, id say far more stable then the stock monitor stands actually.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> None of them are VESA, except the top one. The bottom monitors (the 23" AOC) are all non-VESA. Its just some metal hose clamps with the screws on them that tighten them and i put a pipe in line with the stand thing, which allows it to slide into a 90* fitting on the stand.
> 
> *Its very stable, id say far more stable then the stock monitor stands actually.*


Which are as stable as putting a bare LCD on cheese and hoping it doesn't fall off


----------



## ReaperN1

I needed a multi monitor mount for testing computers so I took apart a halogen shop light that has a tripod stand. I used a couple pieces of aluminum tubing scavenged from outdoor solar lights to make the mounts. It turned out pretty nice looking and didn't take more than an hr to make. Then I built a mount for my gaming controller as well as added neon lighting from a junk yard. The neon lighting was salvaged from an old honda civic. I also needed to build a desk stand so I took apart a broken shelving unit and made a stand for my lab.

Here's what they look like:

This is the monitor stand




Here's the stand for my desk


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I use this weight to protect the desk.
> Also when I have to punch something with hammer(for example mod the metal cover of power circuits in monitor) I also use weights to protect the floor(but it's damn loud, try to hit a weight with a hammer).


I would imagine it is loud. Kind of like a ball peen hammer on an anvil.


----------



## nismoskyline

i remembered this thread and i think this picture is quite fitting

was testing my tec, and zip tied a hyper t2 cpu cooler to my gtx 560ti because it was the cheapest solution i could think of at microcenter to get my test bench for my tec back and operational


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> i remembered this thread and i think this picture is quite fitting
> 
> was testing my tec, and zip tied a hyper t2 cpu cooler to my gtx 560ti because it was the cheapest solution i could think of at microcenter to get my test bench for my tec back and operational


Any before and after temps?


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Any before and after temps?


sorry no, I actually hadn't used the card in over a year, I don't even remember what the temps were, but I'd assume they were better beforehand because it was watercooled when i used it in my main rig


----------



## Pawelr98

New capacitor

Before

After


This is the powerboard of Fujitsu W19-1. As you can see there's few modifications that I made before replacing the main capacitor.
Ac power socket replaced with hard wire (ran out of AC power cables). 470uF 16V polymer capacitor from broken MSI HD5770.


----------



## Dyaems

not ghetto enough. you should have melted a ziptie and use that to install the capacitors instead

j/k. nice job with the cap replacement


----------



## FranBunnyFFXII

HOW DID I NOT KNOW ABOUT THIS THREAD?!

I make my own USB to 3 Pin fan cables:


And I made an angle riser for my buckling spring keyboard so the spacebar didnt hurt my thumbs anymore




Also I mounted the harddrive cage in my case with steel tiewire.

Only way I could get it into the case and still fit everything that will go inside of the case.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I'm more interested in the power strip and usb hubs mounted inside the case.


----------



## FranBunnyFFXII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I'm more interested in the power strip and usb hubs mounted inside the case.


click the Gnosis Half Breed link in my signature.
I'm converting my laptop into a desktop(building a custom docking station)


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FranBunnyFFXII*
> 
> click the Gnosis Half Breed link in my signature.
> I'm converting my laptop into a desktop(building a custom docking station)


ha I see you everywhere on OCN. Gonna checkout your build now


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> not ghetto enough. you should have melted a ziptie and use that to install the capacitors instead
> 
> j/k. nice job with the cap replacement


And so far the cap replacement seems to work. The display had no problem to power up today.


----------



## sindeky

does my air redirection system count as ghetto?


----------



## FranBunnyFFXII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sindeky*
> 
> does my air redirection system count as ghetto?


LOL.


----------



## sindeky

Wanna see my ziptie hinge for the top panel on my case?


----------



## 0493mike

Absolutely brilliant. Now thats ghettoness.


----------



## Unknownm

Fixing CF temp issues. Top card would be 20c higher than bottom

First was fan profiles which worked well (top 100% , bottom 45%) but only gave good temps at stock core. Since I want to OC decided to close up sides. Now both GPU are almost even temp (2-3c off) and running 1025mhz


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Fixing CF temp issues. Top card would be 20c higher than bottom
> 
> First was fan profiles which worked well (top 100% , bottom 45%) but only gave good temps at stock core. Since I want to OC decided to close up sides. Now both GPU are almost even temp (2-3c off) and running 1025mhz


duct tape and tie-wraps. +1 internet for you sir.


----------



## ThijsH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Fixing CF temp issues. Top card would be 20c higher than bottom
> 
> First was fan profiles which worked well (top 100% , bottom 45%) but only gave good temps at stock core. Since I want to OC decided to close up sides. Now both GPU are almost even temp (2-3c off) and running 1025mhz


Nice XFX DD cards you have there. What are the temperatures?


----------



## Unknownm

80c to 83c on both cards. Sooner or later I will have to pull off the heatsinks and apply some as5 since its still using the stock paste.


----------



## MrFumbles91

I'm more concerned about why your hands look so creepy rather than why you decided to put duct tape on your cards


----------



## ThijsH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 80c to 83c on both cards. Sooner or later I will have to pull off the heatsinks and apply some as5 since its still using the stock paste.


The stock tim isnt all too bad, can do alot better though. I used gelid gc extreme which cooled mine down ~10 degrees L. Tip:Be sure to use a viscous tim as the cooler has weird grooves for some reason.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> I'm more concerned about why your hands look so creepy rather than why you decided to put duct tape on your cards


The power adjusting brightness/contrast/exposure. I darken the image a bit from stock dng file my camera saved.. just happened to make my hands creepy looking
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 80c to 83c on both cards. Sooner or later I will have to pull off the heatsinks and apply some as5 since its still using the stock paste.
> 
> 
> 
> The stock tim isnt all too bad, can do alot better though. I used gelid gc extreme which cooled mine down ~10 degrees L. Tip:Be sure to use a viscous tim as the cooler has weird grooves for some reason.
Click to expand...

I have some Coollaboratory Liquid Pro left off from delidding my 3570K. Can I use that or is the base aluminum?


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> The power adjusting brightness/contrast/exposure. I darken the image a bit from stock dng file my camera saved.. just happened to make my hands creepy looking
> I have some Coollaboratory Liquid Pro left off from delidding my 3570K. Can I use that or is the base aluminum?


Anything short of a vapor chamber base would be an aluminium base with copper pipes soldered to it or just copper pipes on it if it's got "weird grooves"

Even if it is copper plated with nickel you would have to be extra careful not to get it outside the die area


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 80c to 83c on both cards. Sooner or later I will have to pull off the heatsinks and apply some as5 since its still using the stock paste.


you can get much better paste than as5 now...


----------



## animal0307

Do the weird grooves look like this?










If so, they are called direct heat pipes. The goal is to minimize the amount of material between the heat pipe and CPU/GPU. There is a special technique for these coolers where you smear paste into the grooves and wipe off the excess and apply paste to the die like normal. Atleast that's what I remember having to do before. Methods may have changed since then so you may want to do some research first.


----------



## ThijsH

The grooves are more circular, kind of like this: http://rlv.zcache.com/brushed_copper_look_ipad_mini_case-re7803ec208f64f918c6d041620a69a9d_w9wmu_8byvr_512.jpg

I'd imagine they are there for the same reason, to act as channels to flow away excess tim. At any rate you'd need a thick tim to better fill in these grooves.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> The grooves are more circular, kind of like this: http://rlv.zcache.com/brushed_copper_look_ipad_mini_case-re7803ec208f64f918c6d041620a69a9d_w9wmu_8byvr_512.jpg
> 
> I'd imagine they are there for the same reason, to act as channels to flow away excess tim. At any rate you'd need a thick tim to better fill in these grooves.


Those are probably maching marks left by the manufacturing process. Not all heatsink bases are sanded smooth (My H40 and H70 had circular marks from maching). Lapping those heat sinks helps tons.


----------



## FranBunnyFFXII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 80c to 83c on both cards. Sooner or later I will have to pull off the heatsinks and apply some as5 since its still using the stock paste.


MX-2/MX-4


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Those are probably maching marks left by the manufacturing process. Not all heatsink bases are sanded smooth (My H40 and H70 had circular marks from maching). Lapping those heat sinks helps tons.


These are just machining marks not grooves they do not protrude from the surface at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FranBunnyFFXII*
> 
> MX-2/MX-4


Prolimatech PK-1 WAY ahead of those 2 pastes


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Do the weird grooves look like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If so, they are called direct heat pipes. The goal is to minimize the amount of material between the heat pipe and CPU/GPU. There is a special technique for these coolers where you smear paste into the grooves and wipe off the excess and apply paste to the die like normal. Atleast that's what I remember having to do before. Methods may have changed since then so you may want to do some research first.


those outer two heatpipes don't look like they contribute much.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> These are just machining marks not grooves they do not protrude from the surface at all.
> Prolimatech PK-1 WAY ahead of those 2 pastes


Possibly, I know on my H40 and H70, you could really feel them easily with your nail, I gained about 5C from lapping both.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Possibly, I know on my H40 and H70, you could really feel them easily with your nail, I gained about 5C from lapping both.


Asetek quality with Corsair pricing lul
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> those outer two heatpipes don't look like they contribute much.


That's why I dislike "direct touch heatpipes" when you can get a deepcool gamerstorm for the price of a tiny little heatsik or a lucifer for the price of a hyper 212 here i don't see why i shouldn't buy a deepcool
And their AIOs are really quiet


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Asetek quality with Corsair pricing lul


Yup, I didn't know the difference back then lol, I've gone custom since then xD


----------



## RadarOne

Cable management? Plasti-dip!


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Cable management? Plasti-dip!


That must take a ton of plastidip....


----------



## RadarOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> That must take a ton of plastidip....


Nah. I made a little trough out of duct tape and card board and just dipped everything length wise 6 inches at a time. Used less than half a can for the cable pictured plus three others.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Cable management? Plasti-dip!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Nah. I made a little trough out of duct tape and card board and just dipped everything length wise 6 inches at a time. Used less than half a can for the cable pictured plus three others.


Looks really nice!








Would love to see more pictures and details on how you did this.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Cable management? Plasti-dip!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Nah. I made a little trough out of duct tape and card board and just dipped everything length wise 6 inches at a time. Used less than half a can for the cable pictured plus three others.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks really nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to see more pictures and details on how you did this.
Click to expand...

He's not the only one who would like to see more pictures and details! That is not ghetto rigging; it looks much too professional!


----------



## RadarOne

Here's a pic of the plasti-dip bath:


I pretty much just sloshed the cables around in there until they were nice and coated.

Before dipping, I zip tied everything together and did a bit of 'training' to get them in roughly the right shape. I think if you were to sew the individual wires into place you could enforce a clean shape without having to deal with the bulky zip ties. I'll have to give that a whirl next time.

Before:


Another after:


I suppose ideally the connectors would be the same color as the dip.


----------



## Manxminx

+1 for the brilliant idea. Pure genius









Ali.


----------



## 0493mike

Thats a pretty cool idea. Ghetto yet refined. Thanks for sharing that I will have to try that just because its there and awesome.


----------



## Manxminx

There's a distinct lack of right angle ATX plugs on the market, which is amazing seeing as how many people want one. Your Plasti Dip solution is neat and easy to do. With some care and careful masking and maybe a cable comb it should be possible to do this with sleeved cables.

Ali.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Instead of zip ties, which leave a lump on the cable after dipping, I would use electrical tape to tape the wires to train them. The tape would also help to smooth out the wires so the surface of the Plasti-dip wouldn't show the individual wires. If the coating isn't too thick, one could just coat where the wires flare out into the connector, then sleeve the rest of the cable right up to the flare. Or, if a thicker coating is desired, mask the wires with blue masking tape up to the flare, then tape the flare with electrical tape, coat the wire and connector, then trim away all but enough of the coating to provide a place for the heat shrink at the end of the sleeving to grip to keep the sleeving in place without a noticeable ridge on the shrink. Ideally, the coating would have the same thickness as the sleeving.


----------



## Dyaems

does it count as ghetto if I use the hot air from my graphics card to dry handkerchiefs?


----------



## nepas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> That must take a ton of plastidip....


Looks BLOODY good though,you have to agree,right?


----------



## Antykain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of the plasti-dip bath:
> 
> 
> I pretty much just sloshed the cables around in there until they were nice and coated.
> 
> Before dipping, I zip tied everything together and did a bit of 'training' to get them in roughly the right shape. I think if you were to sew the individual wires into place you could enforce a clean shape without having to deal with the bulky zip ties. I'll have to give that a whirl next time.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> Another after:
> 
> 
> I suppose ideally the connectors would be the same color as the dip
> 
> 
> .


Pretty impressive! I have to keep this idea in the back of my mind for my streaming rig.. Nice!


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nepas*
> 
> Looks BLOODY good though,you have to agree,right?


For the price of a can (spray can) on plastidip in Canada, it would be less expensive for me to sleeve the cables or even buy a pre-sleeved set. It does look nice though, but I bet they become pretty stiff.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nepas*
> 
> Looks BLOODY good though,you have to agree,right?
> 
> 
> 
> For the price of a can (spray can) on plastidip in Canada, it would be less expensive for me to sleeve the cables or even buy a pre-sleeved set. It does look nice though, but I bet they become pretty stiff.
Click to expand...

Maybe, if you are using the Plasti-Dip on the entire cable but sleeving won't give you that nice 90° boot on the connector. I personally feel a hybrid approach like I suggested earlier would be the best of both worlds. Keep in mind that Plasti-Dip comes in both pourable form as well as in spray cans (the former is more suitable for this) and in various colors.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

My case didn't have a spot for a 120mm fan, but it did have room for one of these: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39031_Xscorpion-TF8.html

Not sure if it counts as ghetto, but it works quite well at removing all the excessive heat.


----------



## nismoskyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> snip


not that ghetto, but that sure is cool









never seen one of those things before


----------



## DaveLT

Because they aren't even remote popular. They are not used for 2 reasons ... First is noise and secondly poor airflow.
Silverstone had "made" one of those


----------



## xxpenguinxx

It's not louder than my other case fans, and it puts out quite a lot of air.

I also have a SilverStone SG02-F. It has the same type of fan as an accessory option, but I wouldn't buy it from silverstone, too expensive for just a fan.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> It's not louder than my other case fans, and it puts out quite a lot of air.
> 
> I also have a SilverStone SG02-F. It has the same type of fan as an accessory option, but I wouldn't buy it from silverstone, too expensive for just a fan.


What you're feeling is the static pressure of that fan. Their actual airflow is very low


----------



## Pawelr98

Because the desk was not big enough after putting 29" display.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Got a crick in my neck after viewing that one... next time try rotating the image, genius!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Got a crick in my neck after viewing that one... next time try rotating the image, genius!


Sometimes, forum software will rerotate an image, genius.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Got a crick in my neck after viewing that one... next time try rotating the image, genius!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes, forum software will rerotate an image, genius.
Click to expand...

Wow, someone took my lighthearted post (evidenced by the tongue sticking out smiley) a bit too seriously...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> What you're feeling is the static pressure of that fan. Their actual airflow is very low


"Feel' static pressure? Maybe in your ears. But you sure can't feel it with your hands. We can "feel" static pressure .. with our ears .. when flying or driving over passes in the mountains our ears pop when pressure changes.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Blow on your hand with your lips tight, and then blow on your hand with your mouth wide open. Same effect.

However, considering I'm using two XAF-F1255 as intake fans and maintaining negative pressure on the side vent, I'd say it's moving enough air.


----------



## u3b3rg33k




----------



## doyll

Your feeling a fart is not static pressure. Really it's semantics, We really can't feel static pressure. We feel the differences in pressure, but not "static pressure."

By definition it is not something we can feel .. the same as we cannot "feel" 100mph.

*static pressure*
noun, Physics.
1.
the pressure exerted by a liquid or a gas that is not moving or flowing

2.
The pressure exerted by a liquid or gas, especially water or air, when the bodies on which the pressure is exerted are not in motion.
.[/INDENT
Higher pressure in your gut pushes your fart out your arse creating airlfow you feel (smell) .. and hopefully it doesn't get wet.









But once the pressure starts to move it is not longer static (stopped).


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

I thought this was about cheap and sketchy modifications, not fondling your farts.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> I thought this was about cheap and sketchy modifications, not fondling your farts.


Feeling the static pressure of your farts is an elemental part of ghetto-rigging.

By the way, anyone else using the case exhaust for drying their underwear or is it just me?


----------



## Zen00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Feeling the static pressure of your farts is an elemental part of ghetto-rigging.
> 
> By the way, anyone else using the case exhaust for drying their underwear or is it just me?


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Feeling the static pressure of your farts is an elemental part of ghetto-rigging.
> 
> By the way, anyone else using the case exhaust for drying their underwear or is it just me?


That is a great idea!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

That's a good idea, but I don't think my underwear ever gets that wet other than when washing it, and the washer is no where near the computer.


----------



## Duality92

Back on topic guys before this gets out of hand.


----------



## RadarOne

Played around with some home-brewed water cooling over the weekend. The case and cooling loop are made entirely from salvaged parts.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Played around with some home-brewed water cooling over the weekend. The case and cooling loop are made entirely from salvaged parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


the ghettoness is strong with this one.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> the ghettoness is strong with this one.


I concur!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Played around with some home-brewed water cooling over the weekend. The case and cooling loop are made entirely from salvaged parts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the ghettoness is strong with this one.
Click to expand...

_snicker_ _chuckle_ Cute!


----------



## Jimbags

That cpu waterblock!
Is it homemade!


----------



## RadarOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> That cpu waterblock!
> Is it homemade!


Yup. Cut the aluminum with a dremel and an end mill bit that I put in my drill press (lacking an actual mill). The green bit is a gasket made from some foam rubber sheet that I think was supposed to be used under laminate flooring. The clear cover is made of a plastic what is probably polycarbonate, but I found it in a trash can so I'm not completely sure.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Yup. Cut the aluminum with a dremel and an end mill bit that I put in my drill press (lacking an actual mill). The green bit is a gasket made from some foam rubber sheet that I think was supposed to be used under laminate flooring. The clear cover is made of a plastic what is probably polycarbonate, but I found it in a trash can so I'm not completely sure.


That is bloody awesome!
You have to tell us specs/temps?!
I spot a pentium logo on the monitor?...


----------



## DaveLT

Looks like a socket 478 to me or worse, 423


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Looks like a socket 478 to me or worse, 423


looks like this guy
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131464


----------



## RadarOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> looks like this guy
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131464


That's the one.

I'm really not sure what the temps are. The sensor is stuck at 125 C.


----------



## morbid_bean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Played around with some home-brewed water cooling over the weekend. The case and cooling loop are made entirely from salvaged parts.


a Gatorade bottle? lmao


----------



## nepas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> That is bloody awesome!


^^Agreed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> The sensor is stuck at 125 C.


----------



## Jimbags

What chip?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

That's bloody art, that's what that is. Down right fantastic.


----------



## iCrap

it dosen't quite fit...


----------



## 0493mike

LOVE IT. thats one top notch ghettomania , ghettolishess, ghettofide ,ghettoness ? What are you using for your radiator. Talk about spare parts.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> it dosen't quite fit...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2269150/


I'm a little confused by what you mean. what doesn't fit?


----------



## welshy46

A little ghetto rigging job I did to make a rev1 EKWB water block fit a MSI rev2.2 290x water block. I put some thermal paste on any likely sticky up bits to find out what needed replacing. Then Dremel in hand went at the block to make it fit.



After that I placed pads in the same areas as the MSI coolers. Then came more ghettoing with the loop. As I jad no idea if this would work I set up a separate loop to put the card under water.



After leaving it running furmark on 1440p all night the temps never exceeded 45c even with a large overclock.

Now I've proved it can be done, I'll deghetto it this weekend, so I can at least put the side panel back on. I'm leaving the rad, pump, res, 6 fans in pull and fan controller combo where it is and run the pipework out of the back of the case. It also doubles as a good way to hode the nest of cables behind pc.

Post edited for less blurry potato pic


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Warning: terrible photography ahead!
I moved into a new apartment which doesn't have a desk. And obviously, I had no intention to keep my PC gathering dust in the corner til I can be bothered to get one. My sister lives next door and kindly donated me this really low table or whatever it is. (Roughly the same height as my chair) Then I saw my case's box in the corner and couldn't help but see potential. It was too narrow for my 2 monitors, however, so I just put an old shelf on top of one of the foamy plastic things (whatever you call them) and bingo!

Sorry I forgot to lift the mouse mat out of the way to show the construction a bit more.


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

Not directly PC related, but my Dorm room was starting to stank a little, and febreez wasnt doin it, so I opened the window to the Ice cold Canadian Winter air overnight. When I woke up this morning, It was hella cold, so a Prime95 Test and a Furmark Test are now running to warm up my room, because the heating in my building doesnt even work... College Life


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker*
> 
> Not directly PC related, but my Dorm room was starting to stank a little, and febreez wasnt doin it, so I opened the window to the Ice cold Canadian Winter air overnight. When I woke up this morning, It was hella cold, so a Prime95 Test and a Furmark Test are now running to warm up my room, because the heating in my building doesnt even work... College Life


This works really well if power cost is built into the rent eh? When I was folding a couple years ago on all 3 of my gaming rigs it kept my basement nice and warm.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker*
> 
> Not directly PC related, but my Dorm room was starting to stank a little, and febreez wasnt doin it, so I opened the window to the Ice cold Canadian Winter air overnight. When I woke up this morning, It was hella cold, so a Prime95 Test and a Furmark Test are now running to warm up my room, because the heating in my building doesnt even work... College Life


Haha. Though it's not that cold now, need to go a bit north to hit real winter, we in the GTA are just getting a demo-version or something.


----------



## mr soft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Played around with some home-brewed water cooling over the weekend. The case and cooling loop are made entirely from salvaged parts.


A lot of ghetto hours , I cant stop looking at it.
Is that a paper towel splash back around the block ?


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> This works really well if power cost is built into the rent eh? When I was folding a couple years ago on all 3 of my gaming rigs it kept my basement nice and warm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Haha. Though it's not that cold now, need to go a bit north to hit real winter, we in the GTA are just getting a demo-version or something.


I live on residence, so yea, since power is already paid for, its fantastic! just gotta worry about food and Glenfiddich







I'm in the town of Waterloo, and we got hit by some narly winds and snow compared to GTA, but still not as bad as some places. I really should be studying for finals huh







at least now my room is toasty


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Played around with some home-brewed water cooling over the weekend. The case and cooling loop are made entirely from salvaged parts.


This is just... amazing!


----------



## GhettoFied

Man it's been awhile since I posted. Will update soon with the current status of the ghetto-rig.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Your feeling a fart is not static pressure. Really it's semantics, We really can't feel static pressure. We feel the differences in pressure, but not "static pressure."
> 
> By definition it is not something we can feel .. the same as we cannot "feel" 100mph.
> 
> *static pressure*
> noun, Physics.
> 1.
> the pressure exerted by a liquid or a gas that is not moving or flowing
> 
> 2.
> The pressure exerted by a liquid or gas, especially water or air, when the bodies on which the pressure is exerted are not in motion.
> .[/INDENT
> Higher pressure in your gut pushes your fart out your arse creating airlfow you feel (smell) .. and hopefully it doesn't get wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But once the pressure starts to move it is not longer static (stopped).


HEY! I have the same cooler as in your profile pic!!!


----------



## iCrap

Ok so, I needed a GPU block.. all i had was this intel block... so i got that onto the GPU fine, but the block also had a pump built in, and the other pump was making it spin really fast and make weird noises... soooo:


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Ok so, I needed a GPU block.. all i had was this intel block... so i got that onto the GPU fine, but the block also had a pump built in, and the other pump was making it spin really fast and make weird noises... soooo:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe i need to do that with my thermaltake AIO block eh? Good work. Did you just take a screw driver and bore it out?


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Maybe i need to do that with my thermaltake AIO block eh? Good work. Did you just take a screw driver and bore it out?


I took a drill to it! and also some wire cutters... tweezers.... screw drivers.. yeah.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I took a drill to it! and also some wire cutters... tweezers.... screw drivers.. yeah.


Kinda funny with the red coolant in there, first thing I thought is, "it's bleeding, you killed it!"


----------



## SalmonTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RadarOne*
> 
> Played around with some home-brewed water cooling over the weekend. The case and cooling loop are made entirely from salvaged parts.


plywood and Bounty wins the internet

/thread


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Well my DVD recorder wasn't reading DVDs and on a hunch I guessed any ol drive would work... It does, better than the Sony that was in it. Going to retrofit this in there. Who says you need a new one?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raidmaxGuy*
> 
> Well my DVD recorder wasn't reading DVDs and on a hunch I guessed any ol drive would work... It does, better than the Sony that was in it. Going to retrofit this in there. Who says you need a new one?










So it just uses a standard IDE or SATA cable? Hmm, do you think modern Blu-ray players are like that too? I've considered finding a cheap Black Friday player and ripping it apart for its drive.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it just uses a standard IDE or SATA cable? Hmm, do you think modern Blu-ray players are like that too? I've considered finding a cheap Black Friday player and ripping it apart for its drive.


You are just weird. DVD drives are like what, 10 bucks?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106393&cm_re=dvd_burner-_-27-106-393-_-Product


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Blu-ray, not DVD. I've got two DVD burners but no Blu-ray reader.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Blu-ray, not DVD. I've got two DVD burners but no Blu-ray reader.


Eh no wonder.
But we've all moved on from optical media


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Blu-ray, not DVD. I've got two DVD burners but no Blu-ray reader.
> 
> 
> 
> Eh no wonder.
> But we've all moved on from optical media
Click to expand...

Not all of us!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raidmaxGuy*
> 
> Well my DVD recorder wasn't reading DVDs and on a hunch I guessed any ol drive would work... It does, better than the Sony that was in it. Going to retrofit this in there. Who says you need a new one?


Thats a pretty amp you got there :3


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Thats a pretty amp you got there :3


Why thank you







. She's a 1968 Pioneer SX-1000Ta (the a variant is extremely rare), has a tube tuner frontend.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> You are just weird. DVD drives are like what, 10 bucks?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106393&cm_re=dvd_burner-_-27-106-393-_-Product


True. The reason I have an issue is the replacement for this model is the replacement is $125 on FleaBay. I can buy three new recorders for that price.


----------



## Regnitto

here's before and after, does this count as "ghetto rigging"?

before:


After:


all for the sake of taming the temps on my VisionTek R9 290:


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> here's before and after, does this count as "ghetto rigging"?
> 
> before:
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> all for the sake of taming the temps on my VisionTek R9 290:


Kinda, but I think it looks too clean to be called ghetto







Now if zipties were used to hold the coldplate on, sure. XD


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raidmaxGuy*
> 
> Kinda, but I think it looks too clean to be called ghetto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if zipties were used to hold the coldplate on, sure. XD


there's zip ties holding the fan on the card


----------



## Werne

Well, my HTPC's PSU fan died and I don't have a single 120mm fan, buying one would cost more than the PSU is worth. I only have a 92mm Arctic F9 which got left over from a build I sold, so I had to improvise. I remembered my neighbor threw away a couch and got an idea, so I blasted Amon Amarth for motivation, went down to the dumpster with an axe and a saw and chopped off a part of it's wooden back panel approximately the size I need. The looks people gave me while I was beating the crap out of a couch with an axe were hilarious by the way.

After chopping that thing off, I needed a drill, but I forgot my drill's battery is dead so I had to improvise in order to improvise...



Took a PSU that turns on ~50% of the time, slapped an on/off switch onto it and soldered the 12V line to the battery contacts, works like a charm 50% of the time. And yes, that chair is a bucket with two pillows on it, I'm poor and a local bar was throwing all that out so I put it to good use. Anyway, after doing that I proceeded to use my not-so-battery-powered drill to make mounting holes and an opening for a 92mm fan:



Holes for the 92mm fan are a bit off, 120mm holes turned out great. Screwed onto the PSU:




Perfect. Wanted to put it inside the PSU but it was too big so I had to screw it on the outside. With the fan mounted:





That "warranty void" OEM sticker residue there is a cute addition, and two out of four screws for a 92mm fan is good enough. The case isn't made for something like this to be mounted inside so I had to make some "adjustments", like this one:



That PSU support used to be inside the case, the second one is also bent like this. Now you know why the warranty is void.







And this is the PSU inside the case:



Now the thing makes a lot less noise than it used to before the fan stopped working altogether, can't even hear the PC working anymore. It's perfect.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Well, my HTPC's PSU fan died and I don't have a single 120mm fan, buying one would cost more than the PSU is worth. I only have a 92mm Arctic F9 which got left over from a build I sold, so I had to improvise. I remembered my neighbor threw away a couch and got an idea, so I blasted Amon Amarth for motivation, went down to the dumpster with an axe and a saw and chopped off a part of it's wooden back panel approximately the size I need. The looks people gave me while I was beating the crap out of a couch with an axe were hilarious by the way.
> 
> After chopping that thing off, I needed a drill, but I forgot my drill's battery is dead so I had to improvise in order to improvise...
> 
> 
> 
> Took a PSU that turns on ~50% of the time, slapped an on/off switch onto it and soldered the 12V line to the battery contacts, works like a charm 50% of the time. And yes, that chair is a bucket with two pillows on it, I'm poor and a local bar was throwing all that out so I put it to good use. Anyway, after doing that I proceeded to use my not-so-battery-powered drill to make mounting holes and an opening for a 92mm fan:
> 
> 
> 
> Holes for the 92mm fan are a bit off, 120mm holes turned out great. Screwed onto the PSU:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect. Wanted to put it inside the PSU but it was too big so I had to screw it on the outside. With the fan mounted:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That "warranty void" OEM sticker residue there is a cute addition, and two out of four screws for a 92mm fan is good enough. The case isn't made for something like this to be mounted inside so I had to make some "adjustments", like this one:
> 
> 
> 
> That PSU support used to be inside the case, the second one is also bent like this. Now you know why the warranty is void.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the PSU inside the case:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the thing makes a lot less noise than it used to before the fan stopped working altogether, can't even hear the PC working anymore. It's perfect.


Ghetto yes, great use of ressources, ..., also!


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Well, my HTPC's PSU fan died and I don't have a single 120mm fan, buying one would cost more than the PSU is worth. I only have a 92mm Arctic F9 which got left over from a build I sold, so I had to improvise. I remembered my neighbor threw away a couch and got an idea, so I blasted Amon Amarth for motivation, went down to the dumpster with an axe and a saw and chopped off a part of it's wooden back panel approximately the size I need. The looks people gave me while I was beating the crap out of a couch with an axe were hilarious by the way.
> 
> After chopping that thing off, I needed a drill, but I forgot my drill's battery is dead so I had to improvise in order to improvise...
> 
> 
> 
> Took a PSU that turns on ~50% of the time, slapped an on/off switch onto it and soldered the 12V line to the battery contacts, works like a charm 50% of the time. And yes, that chair is a bucket with two pillows on it, I'm poor and a local bar was throwing all that out so I put it to good use. Anyway, after doing that I proceeded to use my not-so-battery-powered drill to make mounting holes and an opening for a 92mm fan:
> 
> 
> 
> Holes for the 92mm fan are a bit off, 120mm holes turned out great. Screwed onto the PSU:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect. Wanted to put it inside the PSU but it was too big so I had to screw it on the outside. With the fan mounted:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That "warranty void" OEM sticker residue there is a cute addition, and two out of four screws for a 92mm fan is good enough. The case isn't made for something like this to be mounted inside so I had to make some "adjustments", like this one:
> 
> 
> 
> That PSU support used to be inside the case, the second one is also bent like this. Now you know why the warranty is void.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is the PSU inside the case:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the thing makes a lot less noise than it used to before the fan stopped working altogether, can't even hear the PC working anymore. It's perfect.


Ghetto after ghetto, love it!


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Werne truly is embodying the philosophy "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Ghetto yes, great use of ressources, ..., also!


I learned how to use any resource to make or fix anything since it was a part of my educational program in elementary school hand craft courses, it was supposed to help us think on our own and learn mechanics and basic electronics. Just as an example, one of the first things we made there was a wood saw out of a metal strip and a lead water pipe, I even made a hand crank drill at some point.

Judging by all the stuff I posted in here, I'd say I was a good student.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Ghetto after ghetto, love it!











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> Werne truly is embodying the philosophy "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."


But I'm both handsome and handy. Does that mean I get all the ladies?


----------



## cones

Not as much as others in here, but i needed to keep my HDDs cooler in my "case". I ended up finding a screw that fit and attached to fan to the HDD, so far it has made about a 10c difference. Also the photo is not to bad for using a phone with flash and a flashlight









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> ... The looks people gave me while I was beating the crap out of a couch with an axe were hilarious by the way.
> 
> After chopping that thing off, I needed a drill, but I forgot my drill's battery is dead so I had to improvise in order to improvise...
> ...


How far away were the people when they were looking at you? Far away because there is a crazy guy beating a couch with an axe or close to see what you were doing?







I also hope they saw you using that drill.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> But I'm both handsome and handy. Does that mean I get all the ladies?


Judging from the reaction in here, I think it means you get some of the dudes.


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> Judging from the reaction in here, I think it means you get some of the dudes.


Dam ...


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cones*
> 
> How far away were the people when they were looking at you? Far away because there is a crazy guy beating a couch with an axe or close to see what you were doing?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also hope they saw you using that drill.


They were far away, giving me the "Nope!" looks and trying to get as far away as possible from me, they even avoided passing through the street. Can't blame them though, I had a bad hair day and was dirty from unclogging the chimney beforehand so I probably did look like someone who just escaped from the loony bin.









And they did see me using the drill since I was working in front of the building, some douche parked in front of my garage so I couldn't get in and I didn't want to have sawdust all over the apartment. That wasn't strange though, ghetto-rigged drills like that one are fairly common around here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> But I'm both handsome and handy. Does that mean I get all the ladies?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Judging from the reaction in here, I think it means you get some of the dudes.
Click to expand...


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Took a PSU that turns on ~50% of the time, slapped an on/off switch onto it and soldered the 12V line to the battery contacts, works like a charm 50% of the time. And yes, that chair is a bucket with two pillows on it, I'm poor and a local bar was throwing all that out so I put it to good use. Anyway, after doing that I proceeded to use my not-so-battery-powered drill to make mounting holes and an opening for a 92mm fan:


So, lemme get this straight: you used the PSU to fix the drill that you used to fix the PSU? That's meta as hell.


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> So, lemme get this straight: you used the PSU to fix the drill that you used to fix the PSU? That's meta as hell.


He used a partially-faulty PSU to fix a drill that he used to fix a good PSU.


----------



## TTheuns

My temporary desk was too low, so my monitor, keyboard and mouse are on the box the monitor came in. Also, my Ducky Shine 3 is being balanced by a bread clip...


----------



## Dyaems

pics or it didn't happen


----------



## DiaSin

I guess this is kinda ghetto.. so..

I fixed the one gripe I had with the vintage Dell AT101W mechanical keyboard I ordered. I was regularly hitting the context menu key with the side of my right hand as I was typing, due to the unusual hand placement I developed for typing over the years. My old gaming keyboard had semi-low-profile keys, and a built in wrist rest, so it was never an issue before.

I took the rubber bit off one earpiece from a pair of garbage earbuds and stuck it over the stem in the keycap. It adds enough resistance to the key that when the side of my hand hits the key it doesn't actuate the switch.


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dyaems*
> 
> pics or it didn't happen


I'll have to take some pictures tomorrow then. I also used to mount my H105 with homemade brackets, for RAM clearance, but I took those out of my PC recently, I'll get them back in soon, that should be enough to qualify me to be a ghettorigger


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Well I was in a bit of a pinch after taking apart an N64 controller with a very scratchy analog stick. Turns out the crappy grease they used turned into dust, no surprise. So what do I do? I bust out some Antec Nano Diamond 7 and used that as grease temporarily. Now to buy a whole tube of lithium grease when I get the chance... Not computer-related but certainly ghetto.

It's not perfect but it works


----------



## davcc22

I was having vrm temp issues with my saburtooth 990fx so I did this


----------



## hartofwave

It would be cool of there were little 40mm fan mounts on VRM heat sinks


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> It would be cool of there were little 40mm fan mounts on VRM heat sinks


you just gave me an idea


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> It would be cool of there were little 40mm fan mounts on VRM heat sinks


50cm fan, will they do?


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> 
> 50cm fan, will they do?


Haha, Nice! What are your temps now?


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> I was having vrm temp issues with my saburtooth 990fx so I did this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> 
> 50cm fan, will they do?


I took a slightly different approach for cooling my VRMs on my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3. I cut a hole in my case and mounted a 140mm BEHIND my VRMs:




Used to see 70-80c in gaming and 80-100c stress testing in OCCT, now it never gets above 60c









just need to get a 140mm filter


----------



## Mike The Owl

Got one of those as well
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I took a slightly different approach for cooling my VRMs on my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3. I cut a hole in my case and mounted a 140mm BEHIND my VRMs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Used to see 70-80c in gaming and 80-100c stress testing in OCCT, now it never gets above 60c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just need to get a 140mm filter


Got one of those as well


----------



## nepas

O god,Maplin fans!!!!! temps will go up within a week


----------



## TTheuns

As promised:

Really glad I decided last minute I didn't need the extra number pad! Or I would have been forced to get an actual desk









If you have a really insanely sharp eye, you may notice that the base for this 'desk' are two $5 IKEA tables...

Sorry for the crappy shots, they are phone pics.


----------



## jsc1973

Ever wondered what would happen if you tried to build a modern rig in a 13-year-old case with no cable management and a non-modular PSU?











Next purchase is going to be a modular PSU...


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Ever wondered what would happen if you tried to build a modern rig in a 13-year-old case with no cable management and a non-modular PSU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase is going to be a modular PSU...


Or a new case


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Ever wondered what would happen if you tried to build a modern rig in a 13-year-old case with no cable management and a non-modular PSU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase is going to be a modular PSU...


Been there


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Or a new case


True, but I have my reasons for using it. I do have other cases around here I could have used. Wish I'd had a modular PSU.

I did think the rat's nest of cables was kind of funny. Fortunately, this case is so old that it doesn't even have a side window.


----------



## LEOPEVA

First of all, i'm not from usa, so sorry for mi english, someone recommended that post my work here, so here is,I decided to transforme a very cheap 3+1 phases board (asus M5A78L-M LX V2) that cost to me $48 dollars, in something most powerfull, and, with two tubes of artic alumina thermal adhesive and some very cheap heatsinks from local store, all for about $11 bucks, this was what I did:

THIS IS THE BOARD WITHOUT VRM HEATSINKS:




TO BE SURE, I DECIDED TO PUT HEATSINKS IN THE MOSFETS, CHOKES AND DRIVERS:




IN THE RED CIRCLES, YOU CAN SEE THE GLUE, ARTIC ALUMINA, THIS PRODUCT IS AWESOME:





THEN, WITH SOME BLACK SPRAY PAINT:






FINAL WORK:




I DECIDED TOO, ADD SOME EXTRA HEATSINKS TO THE NORTHBRIDGE AND SOUTHBRIDGE, WITHOUT INTERFERING THE PCIEX PORTS:

BEFORE:


AFTER:


----------



## iCrap

This one is pretty self explanatory......


----------



## ThijsH

^lol nice.

Did you record before and after temps?


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> ^lol nice.
> 
> Did you record before and after temps?


I have the before temps but I haven't actually ran it like this yet. Still have to test it.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LEOPEVA*
> 
> First of all, i'm not from usa, so sorry for mi english, someone recommended that post my work here, so here is,I decided to transforme a very cheap 3+1 phases board (asus M5A78L-M LX V2) that cost to me $48 dollars, in something most powerfull, and, with two tubes of artic alumina thermal adhesive and some very cheap heatsinks from local store, all for about $11 bucks, this was what I did:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> THIS IS THE BOARD WITHOUT VRM HEATSINKS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TO BE SURE, I DECIDED TO PUT HEATSINKS IN THE MOSFETS, CHOKES AND DRIVERS:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IN THE RED CIRCLES, YOU CAN SEE THE GLUE, ARTIC ALUMINA, THIS PRODUCT IS AWESOME:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THEN, WITH SOME BLACK SPRAY PAINT:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FINAL WORK:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I DECIDED TOO, ADD SOME EXTRA HEATSINKS TO THE NORTHBRIDGE AND SOUTHBRIDGE, WITHOUT INTERFERING THE PCIEX PORTS:
> 
> BEFORE:
> 
> 
> AFTER:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> This one is pretty self explanatory......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


the ghetto is very strong with these two. love it.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Heh, speaking of beige cases and modern rigs, I should show you guys my Vishera system now. I'm running a nonmodular PSU with all cables but 24-pin, CPU power, and a Molex string crammed into the (ghetto modded) extra drive cages. The front plastic panel has been removed for better airflow and the power button is hanging out the back. I'm using an Evercool drive bay's fan for front front intake, and exhaust is handled by the PSU and blower style GPU.

It's fantastic and temps are actually pretty good.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> I have the before temps but I haven't actually ran it like this yet. Still have to test it.


I have been looking for a way to quiet down my 290 on the cheep would be instred to see the before after as I have space for a setup like that









Sadily I had to down clock my ram it does not like to run at 1500 mhz at around 80°c









Any way when I get time I will have to post pictures of my ghetto cooled 7950


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> I have been looking for a way to quiet down my 290 on the cheep would be instred to see the before after as I have space for a setup like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadily I had to down clock my ram it does not like to run at 1500 mhz at around 80°c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any way when I get time I will have to post pictures of my ghetto cooled 7950


you could try something like what I did to my R9 290:



the Cooler Master Seidon series pump lines up perfectly with the 290/290x. all you need is 4x m3-0.5x20mm screws, some thermal paste and a seporate cooling solution for the vrms.


----------



## burticus

Is that / was that a Hyper 212+? Looks familiar... I've got 3 of them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> This one is pretty self explanatory......


----------



## burticus

I RECOGNIZE THOSE PURPLE FAN CLIPS! It's one of those "Dragon" style cases that were very popular (and copied) in the low 2000's. I had one and built a couple for others (think mine was a "Chief-tec" knockoff). I couldn't give that thing away at a garage sale 2 years ago. It was the bomb for quite a while until everything switched to 120mm fans and real airflow. Even though I switched out all 5 80mm fans for panaflo's back in the day, the airflow still wasn't great yet managed to collect dust like it was it's job.

120mm fans and fan filters FTW!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Ever wondered what would happen if you tried to build a modern rig in a 13-year-old case with no cable management and a non-modular PSU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next purchase is going to be a modular PSU...


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> you could try something like what I did to my R9 290:
> 
> 
> 
> the Cooler Master Seidon series pump lines up perfectly with the 290/290x. all you need is 4x m3-0.5x20mm screws, some thermal paste and a seporate cooling solution for the vrms.


This solves one of the biggest problems I have with mounting a aio to my GPU Dwood litearly just went dark when I was doing the mod to my 7950 and I had the square pump h60 (zip ties would in no way provide enough pressure ). That aio is on sale here for 49$ too. will consider that and post back here when it done because what ever I do it will be ghetto


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> This solves one of the biggest problems I have with mounting a aio to my GPU Dwood litearly just went dark when I was doing the mod to my 7950 and I had the square pump h60 (zip ties would in no way provide enough pressure ). That aio is on sale here for 49$ too. will consider that and post back here when it done because what ever I do it will be ghetto


make sure you have heat sinks for your VRMs and RAM. my VisionTek R9 290 came with heat sinks already pre-applied, so I was able to just slap a fan and an AIO. Running 1200/1500 on +100mv +50% power limit. temps stay in the 60's with fans in quiet mode via corsair link. I have the radiator fan and the vrm fan hooked into the extra fan connections on my H100i since i'm not running push/pull on it.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> Is that / was that a Hyper 212+? Looks familiar... I've got 3 of them.


yes its a hyper 212+


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burticus*
> 
> I RECOGNIZE THOSE PURPLE FAN CLIPS! It's one of those "Dragon" style cases that were very popular (and copied) in the low 2000's. I had one and built a couple for others (think mine was a "Chief-tec" knockoff). I couldn't give that thing away at a garage sale 2 years ago. It was the bomb for quite a while until everything switched to 120mm fans and real airflow. Even though I switched out all 5 80mm fans for panaflo's back in the day, the airflow still wasn't great yet managed to collect dust like it was it's job.
> 
> 120mm fans and fan filters FTW!


This one's an Antec SX1040B. All of them were made by Chenming, who was the OEM, and they just sold it to several companies who stuck their own brand on it. The Antec SOHO models were the best built, though. They were very popular back in the early part of the last decade, and you still see them occasionally. Mine is so old (purchased from Newegg in 2001--the first year there even WAS a Newegg...LOL) that it began life with a Athlon Thunderbird, and even still has case badges for one, along with a C2D, Phenom II, and other stuff.

I've continued to use it off and on for years because I'm always switching stuff in and out, and it's easy to do, and besides that I'm just used to having it around--sometimes when I've been using another case, I find myself reaching for stuff in the places that I'm used to on the old Antec. And it's built like a tank compared to some of the cases you see today.

The biggest problem with it now is that it does have limited airflow by modern standards. The fact that there's no cable management to speak of really doesn't matter except for limiting airflow; there's no side window on it anyway. I recently bestowed it with some of these Scythe 80mm fans that were discontinued a few years back, but which make about 30 CFM each and are quiet:


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

So when are you doing a custom loop in that beast? FrozenCPU sells 80mm and 160mm radiators...


----------



## GhettoFied

Wow. That's awesome. I'm always looking for old amps like that so I can clean them up, but they're usually too far gone.


----------



## datbimmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> True, but I have my reasons for using it. I do have other cases around here I could have used. Wish I'd had a modular PSU.
> 
> I did think the rat's nest of cables was kind of funny. Fortunately, this case is so old that it doesn't even have a side window.


I have the same case. It *was* available with a window. ( I gotta see if I can find the side panel of mine (with window)


----------



## jsc1973

The window was an option they offered several months after I bought mine. I wouldn't have ordered it that way, anyway. Never saw the appeal of viewing the guts of a PC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> So when are you doing a custom loop in that beast? FrozenCPU sells 80mm and 160mm radiators...


Interesting that you mentioned that. I actually have considered taking that case and doing some mods on it, then fitting it with a Black Ice 160, just because I can. The only reason I've never undertaken the project is that I've heard mixed reviews over whether or not that radiator is effective at cooling.

Right now, it wouldn't make much sense, anyway. I'm not running anything like a high-performance rig, and I've discovered that the 6800K I'm running is a low leaker that can run stock stable undervolted, but can't overclock worth a crap.


----------



## Werne

I fished a dead satellite set-top box out of a dumpster and upon closer inspection...



The system fits inside almost perfectly, there's just enough room to cram a mITX board and PSU guts inside, gotta make some modifications but it won't be much work.









Only complicated thing is mounting the hard drive. It won't fit underneath the mobo or the PSU and I can't mount it onto the side either, damn thing is too tall and too wide. I guess I could ghetto something up and mount it above the board under a weird angle, or maybe even mount it on the outside. Hmm...

I'll think of something.

And yes, those are fishy sheets.


----------



## 5291Crash

Note the Rope keeping the towers stacked lol

That setup was Main rig on top, Downloading mule on bottom (Socket 754 setup)


----------



## nleksan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *datbimmer*
> 
> I have the same case. It *was* available with a window. ( I gotta see if I can find the side panel of mine (with window)







Mine has the windowed sidepanel, I just don't know where it is lol


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> you could try something like what I did to my R9 290:
> 
> 
> 
> the Cooler Master Seidon series pump lines up perfectly with the 290/290x. all you need is 4x m3-0.5x20mm screws, some thermal paste and a seporate cooling solution for the vrms.


Only the seidon 120m, xl and 240m








120v won't support it.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Only the seidon 120m, xl and 240m
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120v won't support it.


Mine is the 120xl. I didn't even look at the 120v. It's got to have the round pump/water block


----------



## Tohru Rokuno

GTX 650 on top for the big monitor, GT 220 on bottom for the second monitor (only has VGA input, no adapters handy), fake SLI bridge for humor.


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tohru Rokuno*
> 
> 
> 
> GTX 650 on top for the big monitor, GT 220 on bottom for the second monitor (only has VGA input, no adapters handy), fake SLI bridge for humor.


I'd have gone all the way and made a fake SLI bridge with a 3dfx logo on it.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nleksan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has the windowed sidepanel, I just don't know where it is lol


I have similar, but it's Chieftech one, with more "easier" looking front panel








Using that on my night table


----------



## blooder11181

i did a light lapping on the arctic cooler 7 pro only to remove the cuts marcs because didnt sit well on the cpu.
sorry but my cellphone doesnt show well


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaveLT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> you could try something like what I did to my R9 290:
> 
> 
> 
> the Cooler Master Seidon series pump lines up perfectly with the 290/290x. all you need is 4x m3-0.5x20mm screws, some thermal paste and a seporate cooling solution for the vrms.
> 
> 
> 
> Only the seidon 120m, xl and 240m
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120v won't support it.
Click to expand...

I beg to differ.









@Regnitto



Spoiler: It kind of supports it.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> I beg to differ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Regnitto
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: It kind of supports it.


the support for it i'm refering to is being able to screw it on rather than a zip tie mod. almost any AIO is supported with a zip tie mod


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> I beg to differ.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Regnitto
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: It kind of supports it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the support for it i'm refering to is being able to screw it on rather than a zip tie mod. almost any AIO is supported with a zip tie mod
Click to expand...

I know, I know. But you could use thinner zip ties and have the space to drop a screw in each hole if you so fancy them.


----------



## Powerg4

My first computer mod was a TERRIBLE mess pretty funny actually!









It started with a really old IBM Aptiva someone gave me, it had 64mb RAM haha









This isn't the picture of the completed machine but the rats nest of wires and leds is identical, and the final case had a perspex window too!

Anyway I hacked out the back with a pair of diagonal cutters so I could fit an old pentium 4 motherboard in there (the OEM mainboard supports were different to standard, ended up bolting the board in.)

I then got some 12v leds off ebay, I think they were actually meant for cars, and hot glued them onto the METAL case







And of course you can't go past some led fans at 3$ each









I also glued a led from a optical mouse into an old plastic figure, powered by a cord which ran from the USB slot , through the card slot and into the case.

Lets just say that well... the leds melted themselves off frequently, the computer ran windows XP and eventually it just died and I decided to get a new case.

It was a great learning experience though, I did much better with the next mod









The machine on the right is the same model- from this respectable machine:



To this mess


----------



## OdinValk

So even though this is technically a ghetto mod... least not to the extent of some of these lol.. I was wondering...

http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&cat=&query_string=sleeved+cable+extension

would these extensions cause any kind of power drop or fluctuation in current? they are basically for the lazy person who doesnt want to spend the time sleeving EVERY individual cable


----------



## Duality92

bitfenix and nzxt sell some too, they're fine.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> bitfenix and nzxt sell some too, they're fine.


well, being an electrician by trade you'd think I'd know the answer to my own question.. lol in a lot of things.. the more you add to something (cable/wire/line voltage) you're in a sense adding more resistance.. and thus lowering the actual amperage/voltage didn't know if it worked the same in these cables... since they aren't carrying a high current anyway.. didn't know if adding to the line would raise the resist.. though since you are not actually adding anything MADE for resistance or impedance.. I suppose it would be ok...

yes I have conversations with myself at times..


----------



## DaveLT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> well, being an electrician by trade you'd think I'd know the answer to my own question.. lol in a lot of things.. the more you add to something (cable/wire/line voltage) you're in a sense adding more resistance.. and thus lowering the actual amperage/voltage didn't know if it worked the same in these cables... since they aren't carrying a high current anyway.. didn't know if adding to the line would raise the resist.. though since you are not actually adding anything MADE for resistance or impedance.. I suppose it would be ok...
> 
> yes I have conversations with myself at times..


Usually the wires aren't that thin that they will affect operation anyway.


----------



## 2002dunx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> well, *being an electrician by trade* you'd think I'd know the answer to my own question.. lol in a lot of things.. the more you add to something (cable/wire/line voltage) you're in a sense adding more resistance.. and thus lowering the actual amperage/voltage didn't know if it worked the same in these cables... since they aren't carrying a high current anyway.. didn't know if adding to the line would raise the resist.. though since you are not actually adding anything MADE for resistance or impedance.. I suppose it would be ok...
> 
> yes I have conversations with myself at times..


I would have thought you'd know the approximate resistivity of those cables then !

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/tables/rstiv.html

Yes 10^-8 Ohms per metre....

dunx

P.S. Some of us need extensions for stupidly large cases, with PSU's with stupidly short cables


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2002dunx*
> 
> I would have thought you'd know the approximate resistivity of those cables then !
> 
> http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/tables/rstiv.html
> 
> Yes 10^-8 Ohms per metre....
> 
> dunx
> 
> P.S. Some of us need extensions for stupidly large cases, with PSU's with stupidly short cables


well having never actually thought about it before lol.. I'm used to dealing with voltages of 480+ in the chemical plants.. working in substation MCCs with 13kV


----------



## OdinValk

Would using cardboard as a "psu shroud" or cover be a bad idea? I don't think the psu would get hot enough to start a fire.... Just curious


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Would using cardboard as a "psu shroud" or cover be a bad idea? I don't think the psu would get hot enough to start a fire.... Just curious


Which is it? A shroud or a cover? A shroud direects air. A cover blocks it. You do not want to block the airflow through a PSU.


----------



## DR4G00N

Bit of an old pic, this was my rig while I was waiting for my new case


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> So even though this is technically a ghetto mod... least not to the extent of some of these lol.. I was wondering...
> 
> http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&cat=&query_string=sleeved+cable+extension
> 
> would these extensions cause any kind of power drop or fluctuation in current? they are basically for the lazy person who doesnt want to spend the time sleeving EVERY individual cable


I use NZXT sleeved extensions for my EPS 12V, 24 pin, and 4 8 pin PCIe, they don't cause any trouble.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Which is it? A shroud or a cover? A shroud direects air. A cover blocks it. You do not want to block the airflow through a PSU.


the PSU's fan is underneath the PC.. wouldnt block anything.. it pulls air from under the case and expels it from the back... the top/side/front are all sealed anyway..

and I guess it would just be a cover by that definition


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> the PSU's fan is underneath the PC.. wouldnt block anything.. it pulls air from under the case and expels it from the back... the top/side/front are all sealed anyway..
> 
> and I guess it would just be a cover by that definition


You are not making any sense. The only PSU venting is bottom and back. If it's a cover on either of those places it will be blocking the airflow through the PSU.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You are not making any sense. The only PSU venting is bottom and back. If it's a cover on either of those places it will be blocking the airflow through the PSU.


Or its possible you're not understanding... The psu has a fan on the bottom.... And it's also got a grated opening in the back where it's power plug is.... The top.. side and front where it's cables (24pin, pci-e, sata, etc) come from is all closed.... I am looking to make a cover that covers the psu and the area in front of it... Obviously if the underside and the rear openings are OUTSIDE the case.. nothing airflow relevant would be covered....

See here for example:http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/quick-nzxt-psu-cover-mod.204306/


----------



## doyll

Kinda hard to understand incomplete questions like
Quote:


> Would using cardboard as a psu shroudor cover be a bad idea?


That is the first you've said of what you wanted to do with "psu shroud or cover".

"Shrouds" in computer cases are usually used to direct / focus airflow to or from components.









But hay, I'm an electrician either.


----------



## Powerg4

Yeah I think that would be fine, as long as no other vents get covered which they won't!









Most PSU's I've had have a fan at the back which push the warm air out near the power plug and sometimes a fan at the bottom or just ventilation slots, as long as none of those get covered I can't see why it would be a problem









Blocking airflow WILL cause the power supply to overheat and die eventually, I had this happen once with one that was mounted outside the PC as a second supply in it's own box with little ventilation, they do create lots of heat!


----------



## OdinValk

looks kind of meh.. but its a start.. maybe I can get a piece of aluminum or something to replace it with


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> 
> 
> looks kind of meh.. but its a start.. maybe I can get a piece of aluminum or something to replace it with


Don't look too bad at all.


----------



## OdinValk

lol yea a little drywall paint and some steady handed stencil cutting.. splash of neon green paint... I think metal would look better... have a kindof real look to it.. like I have a real radiation container in the bottom of my rig lol


----------



## Regnitto

Do you have any ventilation on the bottom of your case? when you make an aluminum one, you could make a fan mount with a green led fan tucked inside it to give a radioactive glow coming out of it.....


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

My Death Adder's left mouse button decided to stop working. I've ordered a pack of six replacement switches (Omron D2FC-F-7N for those wondering, which is also used in a number of other mice) and will report back once I get this fixed. Should be a much shorter turnaround than an RMA even if I had ordered switches from China. (Prime FTW!)


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Do you have any ventilation on the bottom of your case? when you make an aluminum one, you could make a fan mount with a green led fan tucked inside it to give a radioactive glow coming out of it.....


yea there is a spot in the bottom for a 120mm fan.. but other than that.. there is nothing moving air down there.. the psu's fan is on the underside of the case.. and the fans infront are blowing air above the top of the cover... eventually.. I plan on running a water solution everywhere.. and may have to utilize that bottom spot for a smaller 2nd rad


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJEndet*
> 
> Gotta keep my glasses clean, sue me?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inexpensive and effective + with a 2 year old you need to have tp rolls all around the house.


lol that works okay until you get anti glare coating then it's impossible to not get smears with anything but a smooth fiber free cloth...But yeah I like the ghetto rigging...All that hard drive.ever wanted was to spin free...


----------



## DR4G00N

Here's my rig as it is now (Getto HDD mount and GPU & Northbridge fans







):


----------



## animal0307

I'll join the craptacular ghettoness! My poor H50 is now pulling triple overtime and now keeping my GTX 670 ~10-12C cooler while folding.

Long story short. My H50 has been gutted and pushing fluid through a second 120mm rad for about 8 months now. One day I was surfing Ebay when I stumbled onto super cheap water block and the wheels started turning. I had to cool of my 670 and get rid of the fan noise some how so I jumped on it and for $3.95 it was shipped to my door.

Yupp it's one of theses things. With a scrap piece of aluminum laying around to mount it and some spare ramsinks I have managed to water cool my 670 for less than $5














Before the GTX 670. Note the Super ghetto PVC tube res.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> 
> 
> looks kind of meh.. but its a start.. maybe I can get a piece of aluminum or something to replace it with


Thanks's, gonna need one of those myself









Mine:


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Thanks's, gonna need one of those myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine:


is that a logisys sunlight stick on the bottom there? those things are great!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> is that a logisys sunlight stick on the bottom there? those things are great!


Propably possible, got it one's from local trashcenter e-waste from one old pc


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Propably possible, got it one's from local trashcenter e-waste from one old pc


I've got a green sunlight stick at the top of my case


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll join the craptacular ghettoness! My poor H50 is now pulling triple overtime and now keeping my GTX 670 ~10-12C cooler while folding.
> 
> Long story short. My H50 has been gutted and pushing fluid through a second 120mm rad for about 8 months now. One day I was surfing Ebay when I stumbled onto super cheap water block and the wheels started turning. I had to cool of my 670 and get rid of the fan noise some how so I jumped on it and for $3.95 it was shipped to my door.
> 
> Yupp it's one of theses things. With a scrap piece of aluminum laying around to mount it and some spare ramsinks I have managed to water cool my 670 for less than $5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the GTX 670. Note the Super ghetto PVC tube res.


I'd need another 120mm radiator like that (or 140) and do the same with my HTPC video card that's folding.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll join the craptacular ghettoness! My poor H50 is now pulling triple overtime and now keeping my GTX 670 ~10-12C cooler while folding.
> 
> Long story short. My H50 has been gutted and pushing fluid through a second 120mm rad for about 8 months now. One day I was surfing Ebay when I stumbled onto super cheap water block and the wheels started turning. I had to cool of my 670 and get rid of the fan noise some how so I jumped on it and for $3.95 it was shipped to my door.
> 
> Yupp it's one of theses things. With a scrap piece of aluminum laying around to mount it and some spare ramsinks I have managed to water cool my 670 for less than $5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the GTX 670. Note the Super ghetto PVC tube res.


That's not getto. It's well thought out and built. Look professional .. all of it.


----------



## nleksan

Fire Hydrant Reservoir

You won life.


----------



## Powerg4

Yeah looks fine to me!








Maybe you could paint the pvc tubing black haha


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Yeah looks fine to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you could paint the pvc tubing black haha


Unless you're going for max ghetto rep, in that case wrap some duct-tape around the caps to keep it sealed.


----------



## Powerg4

Haha of course!








Few things more ghetto than duct tape, except for maybe badly applied silicon gap filler! (although that's actually a really neat job on the reservoir, I like it







)


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I fixed my DeathAdder!







Since the only site I could find that showed any sort of detailed disassembly of the 2013 model was Polish, I figured I'd take pictures while rebuilding and even circle important things! If you want to take yours apart, then just read this post backwards.











Spoiler: Hiding this is just common courtesy!





First off, I apologize for some of the crappy close-ups. I swear they looked better on my phone. Anyway, this is an incredibly common microswitch. It's manufactured by Omron and is model D2FC-F-7N. It's used in a number of Razer and Logitech mice, and I believe Apple mice as well. Actually, make that every mouse in the world except some Zowie mice. This is the semi-worn right-click switch which I am saving for later use. They cost about a dollar each. I picked up six for $5.99 on Amazon.



There are three solder joints each holding the switches in place. I believe the line of six going diagonally in the left half of the picture go to the side buttons. Those shouldn't wear out as often as your primary buttons though. Anyway, you'll need to desolder them and solder in new switches. It's pretty basic. I mean, I pulled it off!











From top to bottom, we have a number of different wires:

First is a daughterboard for the scroll wheel's LED. I almost broke this trying to remove the PCB; I didn't realize it was anchored down. It's held in place by a single black screw - every other screw in this thing is silver







- and permanently attached to the mainboard. Be careful if you want to keep it.
Second, there's the USB header. This is important for reasons that I hope are obvious.
Third, the socket for the green pulsating LED that is covered by your hand in use. I removed it and its daughterboard entirely. I assure you, it's not difficult to do and you don't need instructions.








Fourth, there's a socket for something to do with the sensor. I'm not sure if it's power for an LED or what to be honest, but it's probably important.


Two long screws anchor the mouse down here. They go through the side buttons' mounting points. They need to be removed.



Crappy close-ups? Yeah, crappy close-ups.







I hope it's pretty self-explanatory. Just be aware that the scroll wheel needs to be re-fitted first, THEN the board replaced. (Alternatively, for disassembly, remove the board first and THEN the wheel.) Be careful with the LED board. It looks fragile. It should be the first thing you uninstall and the last thing you reinstall.



All six screws circled. These are the only internal screws you should need to mess with.



Cover back on. It should just slide into place. You still need to screw it in, but that's easy enough. Normally, you'd be able to see the LED for the pulsing logo. As mentioned earlier, I took it off. It just slides and clips into place and is very easily removed.



You'll need a #1 screwdriver for this. I managed with a #0 taking it apart, but I almost stripped some of the screws. Don't do it, it's dumb.

Press down toward the bottom of the warranty/serial number sticker and you should feel an indentation. Take a screwdriver, stab through it, and start turning. You should get a screw out. Underneath the two feet at the top are two other screws. I didn't remove them fully and just stabbed through the adhesive pad. It works well enough and the feet just fold back when you're done. A couple hours of use tops should flatten them again.



And finally, the top gets replaced. This is a pain in the arse. Everything clips in place, but at the top of the mouse cover, there are two little nubs. The plastic extensions on the buttons hook over these and it swings into place. In retrospect, I probably should have gotten a picture.







Basically, don't force anything and make sure everything is flush. You shouldn't even see a gap other than at the very top.

Also, if you're taking this apart, I highly recommend the newer style Lego brick separators as a cheap spudger. Unlike a flat head screwdriver, they're made of ABS plastic. This means they deform instead of whatever you're trying to disassemble, and they shouldn't take chunks out of anything or damage the edges. A credit card also works, but I've found them to be a bit flimsy, too thick in some case, and not too precise. Check Ebay; they're about 25 cents each if you buy in bulk.



Anyway, that's how my evening has gone. I might have gotten frostbite on my toes. It was really cold in the garage and not socks-and-sandals weather.


----------



## robbo2

AMD 5450 so I can run BF4 on Ultra settings @ 4k


----------



## Duality92

dear god and I thought I was rough with my 5450 hahahahah


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> 
> 
> AMD 5450 so I can run BF4 on Ultra settings @ 4k


not entirely sure of all that i'm looking at in that pic.......


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AMD 5450 so I can run BF4 on Ultra settings @ 4k


Oh thats priceless! How hard are you flogging that card?


----------



## flyer57

I guess of using tape ghetto, and how about this. Got tired of dirty computer, having to clean it out every month and a half. So I made my own filtering system and haven't had to clean the computer in a year and a half, but is not very pretty



picture showing the inside of the computer is just to show how clean it is after year and a half.
I'm using 12 x 12 x 1" high quality air filters. They seem to last about 6 to 8 months.
The black cardboard behind on the back of the computer is so I can put it up against the wall and the cardboard acts as a chimney forcing the heated air out of the computer straight up along the wall.
I sense bought some black duck tape so it should start looking better in time.


----------



## fragamemnon

Last couple of posts are awesome!









What clock speeds are you molesting your GPU at, robbo2?


----------



## robbo2

I did a quick test and hit 1200 heaven stable at 1.3v (stock is 650mhz) but I did the mod for someone else. I never really got a chance to push it harder.


----------



## Duality92

Check the hwbot submissions, they had a competition for this kind of card


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I fixed my DeathAdder!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since the only site I could find that showed any sort of detailed disassembly of the 2013 model was Polish, I figured I'd take pictures while rebuilding and even circle important things! If you want to take yours apart, then just read this post backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Hiding this is just common courtesy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, I apologize for some of the crappy close-ups. I swear they looked better on my phone. Anyway, this is an incredibly common microswitch. It's manufactured by Omron and is model D2FC-F-7N. It's used in a number of Razer and Logitech mice, and I believe Apple mice as well. Actually, make that every mouse in the world except some Zowie mice. This is the semi-worn right-click switch which I am saving for later use. They cost about a dollar each. I picked up six for $5.99 on Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> There are three solder joints each holding the switches in place. I believe the line of six going diagonally in the left half of the picture go to the side buttons. Those shouldn't wear out as often as your primary buttons though. Anyway, you'll need to desolder them and solder in new switches. It's pretty basic. I mean, I pulled it off!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From top to bottom, we have a number of different wires:
> 
> First is a daughterboard for the scroll wheel's LED. I almost broke this trying to remove the PCB; I didn't realize it was anchored down. It's held in place by a single black screw - every other screw in this thing is silver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - and permanently attached to the mainboard. Be careful if you want to keep it.
> Second, there's the USB header. This is important for reasons that I hope are obvious.
> Third, the socket for the green pulsating LED that is covered by your hand in use. I removed it and its daughterboard entirely. I assure you, it's not difficult to do and you don't need instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fourth, there's a socket for something to do with the sensor. I'm not sure if it's power for an LED or what to be honest, but it's probably important.
> 
> 
> Two long screws anchor the mouse down here. They go through the side buttons' mounting points. They need to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> Crappy close-ups? Yeah, crappy close-ups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it's pretty self-explanatory. Just be aware that the scroll wheel needs to be re-fitted first, THEN the board replaced. (Alternatively, for disassembly, remove the board first and THEN the wheel.) Be careful with the LED board. It looks fragile. It should be the first thing you uninstall and the last thing you reinstall.
> 
> 
> 
> All six screws circled. These are the only internal screws you should need to mess with.
> 
> 
> 
> Cover back on. It should just slide into place. You still need to screw it in, but that's easy enough. Normally, you'd be able to see the LED for the pulsing logo. As mentioned earlier, I took it off. It just slides and clips into place and is very easily removed.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll need a #1 screwdriver for this. I managed with a #0 taking it apart, but I almost stripped some of the screws. Don't do it, it's dumb.
> 
> Press down toward the bottom of the warranty/serial number sticker and you should feel an indentation. Take a screwdriver, stab through it, and start turning. You should get a screw out. Underneath the two feet at the top are two other screws. I didn't remove them fully and just stabbed through the adhesive pad. It works well enough and the feet just fold back when you're done. A couple hours of use tops should flatten them again.
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, the top gets replaced. This is a pain in the arse. Everything clips in place, but at the top of the mouse cover, there are two little nubs. The plastic extensions on the buttons hook over these and it swings into place. In retrospect, I probably should have gotten a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, don't force anything and make sure everything is flush. You shouldn't even see a gap other than at the very top.
> 
> Also, if you're taking this apart, I highly recommend the newer style Lego brick separators as a cheap spudger. Unlike a flat head screwdriver, they're made of ABS plastic. This means they deform instead of whatever you're trying to disassemble, and they shouldn't take chunks out of anything or damage the edges. A credit card also works, but I've found them to be a bit flimsy, too thick in some case, and not too precise. Check Ebay; they're about 25 cents each if you buy in bulk.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, that's how my evening has gone. I might have gotten frostbite on my toes. It was really cold in the garage and not socks-and-sandals weather.


Could have asked me as I know polish.

Also DAT 5450. I know one thing. Asus HD5450 is actually a mobility HD5470. It runs on PARK core instead of CEDAR.
Specs wise they are the same but the PARK can clock bit higher from what I saw comparing OC results on both.


----------



## Duality92

Mine is an XFX ONE HD 5450, I've watercooled and overclocked it before (see sig), but nothing like this :O


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I'll join the craptacular ghettoness! My poor H50 is now pulling triple overtime and now keeping my GTX 670 ~10-12C cooler while folding.
> 
> Long story short. My H50 has been gutted and pushing fluid through a second 120mm rad for about 8 months now. One day I was surfing Ebay when I stumbled onto super cheap water block and the wheels started turning. I had to cool of my 670 and get rid of the fan noise some how so I jumped on it and for $3.95 it was shipped to my door.
> 
> Yupp it's one of theses things. With a scrap piece of aluminum laying around to mount it and some spare ramsinks I have managed to water cool my 670 for less than $5
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the GTX 670. Note the Super ghetto PVC tube res.


Are those rads aluminum or copper? If they are copper, you're in for alot of headache with galvanic corrosion o.o


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Are those rads aluminum or copper? If they are copper, you're in for alot of headache with galvanic corrosion o.o


All AIO have aluminum rads ('cept h220 and it's siblings), by default, they have water glycol to prevent it, you need to put an anti-corrosion agent for it to last because the pump base is copper.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> All AIO have aluminum rads ('cept h220 and it's siblings), by default, they have water glycol to prevent it, you need to put an anti-corrosion agent for it to last because the pump base is copper.


If you want proof check out my sig under helpful links, there should be a link that says what is inside an AIO rad.

If you are thinking about reusing an AIO cooler for a custom loop Mayhems XT1 with a %18 to %20 concentrate with distilled water seems to get the job done. I am running a thermaltake rad in my second rig and will likely be disassembling shortly to check the corrosion after 3 months of use.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> If you want proof check out my sig under helpful links, there should be a link that says what is inside an AIO rad.
> 
> If you are thinking about reusing an AIO cooler for a custom loop Mayhems XT1 with a %18 to %20 concentrate with distilled water seems to get the job done. I am running a thermaltake rad in my second rig and will likely be disassembling shortly to check the corrosion after 3 months of use.


Well I did mod two already, here is what I found in the first one http://www.overclock.net/t/1416875/corsair-h40-mod-thread#post_20635766.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Well I did mod two already, here is what I found in the first one http://www.overclock.net/t/1416875/corsair-h40-mod-thread#post_20635766.


I remember your mods duality. Was mostly replying for Willi


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I remember your mods duality. Was mostly replying for Willi


It'll lead him to more proof though!









The H40 base is aluminium, so water glycol isn't needed, regular distilled water is fine, it's what I liked about it.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Are those rads aluminum or copper? If they are copper, you're in for alot of headache with galvanic corrosion o.o
> 
> 
> 
> All AIO have aluminum rads ('cept h220 and it's siblings), by default, they have water glycol to prevent it, you need to put an anti-corrosion agent for it to last because the pump base is copper.
Click to expand...

I've been running a 1:4 automotive antifreeze (glycol) and water mix in the loop. No problems yet but I haven't pulled the pump apart to check for corrosion but I'm not too worried about it. When I put the GPU block in I just cut the line, drained the coolant and refilled with the drained coolant. It was clear with no floaties so it probably wasn't the smartest move but I'm more worried about the o-rings on the pump barbs leaking and not corrosion in the rad/blocks. But thanks for the concerned comments.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I've been running a 1:4 automotive antifreeze (glycol) and water mix in the loop. No problems yet but I haven't pulled the pump apart to check for corrosion but I'm not too worried about it. When I put the GPU block in I just cut the line, drained the coolant and refilled with the drained coolant. It was clear with no floaties so it probably wasn't the smartest move but I'm more worried about the o-rings on the pump barbs leaking and not corrosion in the rad/blocks. But thanks for the concerned comments.


Automotive antifreeze has tons of anti-corrosion agent, so don't worry, you're safe









The water glycol I ran too was about the same when I hadmy moded H70.


----------



## OdinValk

Can the hydro series aio coolers really power that much cooling? I've got one on my cpu atm... Wouldn't mind cooling my gpu too


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Can the hydro series aio coolers really power that much cooling? I've got one on my cpu atm... Wouldn't mind cooling my gpu too


For GPUs yes, their dies are much bigger and direct instead of using an integrated heat sink (IHS), so they cool them very efficiently. You still should find something to cool the VRMs and VRAM though.

For CPU, they're as good or even a tad worst than large air coolers. The advantage of AIO is that you can mod them and daisy chain them as you want.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> For GPUs yes, their dies are much bigger and direct instead of using an integrated heat sink (IHS), so they cool them very efficiently. You still should find something to cool the VRMs and VRAM though.
> 
> For CPU, they're as good or even a tad worst than large air coolers. The advantage of AIO is that you can mod them and daisy chain them as you want.


I plan on building a total custom loop... but was just curious.. the EK block for my gpu covers both the gpu itself and vram


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I plan on building a total custom loop... but was just curious.. the EK block for my gpu covers both the gpu itself and vram


Yes, and VRMs too.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> For GPUs yes, their dies are much bigger and direct instead of using an integrated heat sink (IHS), so they cool them very efficiently. You still should find something to cool the VRMs and VRAM though.
> 
> For CPU, they're as good or even a tad worst than large air coolers. The advantage of AIO is that you can mod them and daisy chain them as you want.


Um no, high end AIOs beat the best air coolers, even without taking the giant amount of stress the air towers put on your motherboard.


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Um no, high end AIOs beat the best air coolers, even without taking the giant amount of stress the air towers put on your motherboard.


Air coolers don't really stress the motherboard that much if you have the backplate installed properly... that's kinda what the backplate is for. Some older AMD boards had issues because their cooler mounting points weren't very well positioned, but if you aren't moving the computer a ton, a large air cooler wont damage it at all.

And you're right that the high-end AIO coolers beat air coolers, but they're talking H40/50, which most definitely is not a high-end AIO.


----------



## Datsun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> I've been running a 1:4 automotive antifreeze (glycol) and water mix in the loop. No problems yet but I haven't pulled the pump apart to check for corrosion but I'm not too worried about it. When I put the GPU block in I just cut the line, drained the coolant and refilled with the drained coolant. It was clear with no floaties so it probably wasn't the smartest move but I'm more worried about the o-rings on the pump barbs leaking and not corrosion in the rad/blocks. But thanks for the concerned comments.


If you don't mind me asking, what particular antifreeze are you running?


----------



## animal0307

It's an orange Dexcool. It's just what I had on hand which is why I used it.


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Im rather curious why you decided to do that?


----------



## Willi

I think the performance differential for a mid-tier AIO like the H60 when compared to a similarly-priced air cooler is a bit bigger. Yes, large air coolers can perform similarly to some AIO's on stock, but when you overclock, the liquid drawing heat away from the processor makes all the difference. Add two fans on push-pull and no air cooler will give similar performance.

Aio WC versus Air cooling
List with tests on AIO and air coolers

Also, when you factor in aspects like noise and maintenance needed, AIO is obviously the best option. I own two computers running an H60 on processor, one Phenon II X6 1090T and another i5 3570K. The i5 is delided. Both run pretty much noiseless and I have to clean the intake side of the rad once every two months.
The AMD one has been on that configuration for 4 years now. The I5 for about two.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> Im rather curious why you decided to do that?


Confused about why I did what?


----------



## SniperTeamTango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Confused about why I did what?


How did you decide "Ima put antifreeze in this". And why did ya do it.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

me 2???


----------



## Regnitto

seriously, what's the point of using automotive antifreeze? Its not like you are running your pc outside in Alaska or Siberia.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SniperTeamTango*
> 
> How did you decide "Ima put antifreeze in this". And why did ya do it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> seriously, what's the point of using automotive antifreeze? Its not like you are running your pc outside in Alaska or Siberia.


Oh because of the anti-corrosive agents in it. Antifreeze is mostly ethylene glycol. It's meant to stop aluminum and copper radiators, aluminum or steel engine blocks, and other metals like brass that may be in automotive cool. I figure it ought to do the same in my PC loop. So far so good.

This wasn't my idea i must admit. I did read about people who use to use it back in the "old days" (mid 2000's) when PC water cooling was pretty much home-brew and they were actually using automotive heater cores from car heaters as radiators for PC and alot of blocks were aluminum before galvanic corrosion was a widely know issue. From what I remember reading it's not the best thing to use because I believe it's more viscus than straight water so it's harder on weak pumps which is why it's diluted to 25%(personal preference, no science). It also worse at transferring heat and for the purists every degree matters. There is also and environmental hazard with anti freeze, you can't legally dump it down the drain.

So in short, it's not the best but it's safer than straight water and I wasn't about to buy a bottle of special stuff for $10+ when I had a gallon in the garage.

Some of this info may be wrong but from what I think I remember I'm pretty that's the general gist of it.


----------



## Furf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> after my computer literally burst into flames during a suicide bench run (power surge during thunderstorm).


I am not sure why I find that so incredibly funny. But I was ROFL'ing.

Oh you know Small thunderstorm no worries now is a great time to do some benching!


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> after my computer literally burst into flames during a suicide bench run (power surge during thunderstorm).
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure why I find that so incredibly funny. But I was ROFL'ing.
> 
> Oh you know Small thunderstorm no worries now is a great time to do some benching!
Click to expand...

Well yeah, it's raining outside so a walk is out of the question.


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> Well yeah, it's raining outside so a walk is out of the question.


Well yea naturally, I mean with all the extra electricity about it makes the OCing higher so you've got to seize the opportunity. There's science in it or something


----------



## Unknownm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Fixing CF temp issues. Top card would be 20c higher than bottom
> 
> First was fan profiles which worked well (top 100% , bottom 45%) but only gave good temps at stock core. Since I want to OC decided to close up sides. Now both GPU are almost even temp (2-3c off) and running 1025mhz






update:. The bottom card only has complete duct tape. Top card is fully open.

I have to go more extreme. 2x fans blowing on the side + 1 outtake fan on the side. Using foam from packaging and duct tape to hold the fan in place. Now in Furmark 100% cards hit up to 90c meaning no more throttling (94c) and little bit more to push the core


----------



## wilson44512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyer57*
> 
> I guess of using tape ghetto, and how about this. Got tired of dirty computer, having to clean it out every month and a half. So I made my own filtering system and haven't had to clean the computer in a year and a half, but is not very pretty
> 
> 
> 
> picture showing the inside of the computer is just to show how clean it is after year and a half.
> I'm using 12 x 12 x 1" high quality air filters. They seem to last about 6 to 8 months.
> The black cardboard behind on the back of the computer is so I can put it up against the wall and the cardboard acts as a chimney forcing the heated air out of the computer straight up along the wall.
> I sense bought some black duck tape so it should start looking better in time.


How are your temperatures inside that thing?


----------



## vicyo

Overheating problems due to a open gpu cooler? Worry not as the 60mm fan, cereal box and blue painter's tape comes to the rescue!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Overheating problems due to a open gpu cooler? Worry not as the 60mm fan, cereal box and blue painter's tape comes to the rescue!


noice!


----------



## flyer57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wilson44512*
> 
> How are your temperatures inside that thing?


Air temperatures are really good usually within 5°F or less of ambient. Airflow is not a problem. To really make this thing work you have to keep positive pressure inside the case. Otherwise you would be drawing in outside air around the filter.
Thinking about adding a third fan so I can use a filter longer. And run the fans at lower RPMs for longer.


----------



## Gereti

Myself i used too car antifreezer+ distilled car battery water in modded cuhler 620 too (was modded to use 2x120mm cuhler 620 rad)

Now i was planning t put 3x120mm cuhler 620 rad and one 620 pum/block to my FX8350 becose h80i isnt able to cool my 8350 with 5Ghz clock's :/

But, i'm lazy to do that... :/


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> It's an orange Dexcool. It's just what I had on hand which is why I used it.


Ahh... Dexcool... Just be glad you dont have to worry about alumminum heads in a computer. Crap tore my 99 century's intake vavle to hell.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Oh because of the anti-corrosive agents in it. Antifreeze is mostly ethylene glycol. It's meant to stop aluminum and copper radiators, aluminum or steel engine blocks, and other metals like brass that may be in automotive cool. I figure it ought to do the same in my PC loop. So far so good.
> 
> This wasn't my idea i must admit. I did read about people who use to use it back in the "old days" (mid 2000's) when PC water cooling was pretty much home-brew and they were actually using automotive heater cores from car heaters as radiators for PC and alot of blocks were aluminum before galvanic corrosion was a widely know issue. From what I remember reading it's not the best thing to use because I believe it's more viscus than straight water so it's harder on weak pumps which is why it's diluted to 25%(personal preference, no science). It also worse at transferring heat and for the purists every degree matters. There is also and environmental hazard with anti freeze, you can't legally dump it down the drain.
> 
> So in short, it's not the best but it's safer than straight water and I wasn't about to buy a bottle of special stuff for $10+ when I had a gallon in the garage.
> 
> Some of this info may be wrong but from what I think I remember I'm pretty that's the general gist of it.


I run the same stuff in my rig @ approx 40/60 mix.
I did it for outside benching in the winter though. Gotta love sub 10*F ambients.


----------



## dracconus

I am considering utilizing a test build that will be ran with koolada. It is a chemical composition we utilize in electronic cigarettes to give a menthol throat hit feeling but it effectively cools the water vapor by an indiscernable but very obvious amount. I have been researching the ingredients used to make it and coolants a lot as of late and believe it might work. If it does we could be (potentially and theorhetically)seeing sub ambient temps on 120mm rads with a thickness of 25mm. The real question is how it will hold up over time but I've got systems I don't care about to test it on 24/7


----------



## Datsun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> It's an orange Dexcool. It's just what I had on hand which is why I used it.


Thanks for the reply. I've habitually been using the old-school green antifreeze for years with no ill effects, though I do get a moderate amount of deposits if I leave the coolant in for a year at a time. It's not a huge issue, but I've been thinking of switching to an organic acid coolant (like Dex Cool) or a hybrid coolant because of this. If I may trouble you with another question, have you had any problems with deposits or metals being etched while using Dex Cool in your loop?


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Datsun*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I've habitually been using the old-school green antifreeze for years with no ill effects, though I do get a moderate amount of deposits if I leave the coolant in for a year at a time. It's not a huge issue, but I've been thinking of switching to an organic acid coolant (like Dex Cool) or a hybrid coolant because of this. If I may trouble you with another question, have you had any problems with deposits or metals being etched while using Dex Cool in your loop?


idk about in a pc loop, but i know in cars (i am a mechanic) dex has a bad habit of turning to mud after a while....unless you change it regularly.


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Datsun*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I've habitually been using the old-school green antifreeze for years with no ill effects, though I do get a moderate amount of deposits if I leave the coolant in for a year at a time. It's not a huge issue, but I've been thinking of switching to an organic acid coolant (like Dex Cool) or a hybrid coolant because of this. If I may trouble you with another question, have you had any problems with deposits or metals being etched while using Dex Cool in your loop?
> 
> 
> 
> idk about in a pc loop, but i know in cars (i am a mechanic) dex has a bad habit of turning to mud after a while....unless you change it regularly.
Click to expand...

Ya I've heard that too. I intend to switch back to normal antifreeze when I change the coolant in my Jeep next time


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Ya I've heard that too. I intend to switch back to normal antifreeze when I change the coolant in my Jeep next time


I see it almost every day. cars come in with old dex in them and when u take the radiator cap off it is full of a muddy looking sludge.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I see it almost every day. cars come in with old dex in them and when u take the radiator cap off it is full of a muddy looking sludge.


what y'all fail to mention is though.. that sludge more than likely comes from stuff passing through the air filter and into the intake... or just crap that builds up in the bottom of the radiator anyway.. I HIGHLY doubt a watercooling rad will have the same problem... no matter which ant-freeze is used


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> idk about in a pc loop, but i know in cars (i am a mechanic) dex has a bad habit of turning to mud after a while....unless you change it regularly.


Dex also has the nasty habit of eating through gaskets on the lower intake manifolds of GM 3800 series engine cars. I don't know if it harms PVC or not, but I'd still stick to the green stuff if you're going to use car antifreeze.


----------



## 0493mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> I am considering utilizing a test build that will be ran with koolada. It is a chemical composition we utilize in electronic cigarettes to give a menthol throat hit feeling but it effectively cools the water vapor by an indiscernable but very obvious amount. I have been researching the ingredients used to make it and coolants a lot as of late and believe it might work. If it does we could be (potentially and theorhetically)seeing sub ambient temps on 120mm rads with a thickness of 25mm. The real question is how it will hold up over time but I've got systems I don't care about to test it on 24/7


That sounds very interesting. I would like to see your results when you do it. This may be a nice addition to our never ending search for awesome and crazy mods that we think up and try. Hats off to you sir and let us know when you try it.

We are a couple of wild and crazy kind of guys.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> That sounds very interesting. I would like to see your results when you do it. This may be a nice addition to our never ending search for awesome and crazy mods that we think up and try. Hats off to you sir and let us know when you try it.
> 
> We are a couple of wild and crazy kind of guys.


I'd like to see this as well but is the cooling effect applied as it vaporizes or is that one of its properties before hand? I would assume prior but it's an interesting idea...


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Dex also has the nasty habit of eating through gaskets on the lower intake manifolds of GM 3800 series engine cars. I don't know if it harms PVC or not, but I'd still stick to the green stuff if you're going to use car antifreeze.


and the 3400, and the 3100, and the 4.3, the list goes on with dex.


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> and the 3400, and the 3100, and the 4.3, the list goes on with dex.


Not surprised at that. My experience with Death-Cool has been solely with a 1997 and 1999 Buick LeSabre. And that experience has been negative enough for me not to recommend the stuff for any application. Stick to green stuff.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Not surprised at that. My experience with Death-Cool has been solely with a 1997 and 1999 Buick LeSabre. And that experience has been negative enough for me not to recommend the stuff for any application. Stick to green stuff.


i usually go with the yellow. it can mix with any of them


----------



## DiaSin

Cookie tin for a monitor stand.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Cookie tin for a monitor stand.


those tins I swear they will be around after the apocolypse for sure....


----------



## wilson44512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyer57*
> 
> Air temperatures are really good usually within 5°F or less of ambient. Airflow is not a problem. To really make this thing work you have to keep positive pressure inside the case. Otherwise you would be drawing in outside air around the filter.
> Thinking about adding a third fan so I can use a filter longer. And run the fans at lower RPMs for longer.


Do you have exhaust fans blowing out?

Im trying to get my case cooler. my MSI radeon R9 290 gets upto 185 degrees F when im gaming.... here are a few pics i have been trying to get to work?

this is my air flow



at first i replaced this little memory fan



with this. but it dont seem to help.



So i added this one on the out side. and it blows out more heat but it seems the temps in the case is the same?


----------



## M3nta1

Your MSI fan GPU doesnt blow out of the case, FYI. Looks like an open cooler design, if you were to install a fan on the side panel exhausting the hot air it generates that should lower temps. Assuming thats possible for your case.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wilson44512*
> 
> Do you have exhaust fans blowing out?
> 
> Im trying to get my case cooler. my MSI radeon R9 290 gets upto 185 degrees F when im gaming.... here are a few pics i have been trying to get to work?
> 
> this is my air flow
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at first i replaced this little memory fan
> 
> 
> 
> with this. but it dont seem to help.
> 
> 
> 
> So i added this one on the out side. and it blows out more heat but it seems the temps in the case is the same?


Do you have a custom fan curve set up for the GPU? It might not be spinning the fans very fast. If you aren't OCd you might be able to drop the voltage for the card a bit as well which will reduce temperatures. You could also try repasting the card to see if you could get the temp to drop, I would assume you'd see a few degrees at load MSI's pasting jobs are pretty awful in my experience.

Otherwise you're going to need more airflow as that looks like a fairly restricted case. Can you adjust the fans in the case to run faster and move more air? For future reference it would be a better idea to go with a blower style GPU in a case like that.


----------



## wilson44512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Your MSI fan doesnt blow out of the case, FYI. Looks like an open cooler design, if you were to install a fan on the side panel exhausting the hot air it generates that should lower temps. Assuming thats possible for your case.


i was thinking of cutting the plastic on the other side of this grill to put a fan but



It dont line up with the GPU?



If i do that what do i do with the fans i have on top blowing out?


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wilson44512*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Your MSI fan doesnt blow out of the case, FYI. Looks like an open cooler design, if you were to install a fan on the side panel exhausting the hot air it generates that should lower temps. Assuming thats possible for your case.
> 
> 
> 
> i was thinking of cutting the plastic on the other side of this grill to put a fan but
> 
> -snip-
> It dont line up with the GPU?
> 
> -snip-
> If i do that what do i do with the fans i have on top blowing out?
Click to expand...

First order of buisiness, with the water cooling loop you have you should be bringing in air from the top to feed fresh cool air to the CPU cooler, and to keep the VRMs at a reasonable temperature. Nothing to do with the GPU, just a personal preference.

That is a very interesting case on the alienware, ive never seen a case that has a metal sheet and then a plastic sheet on the side panel. Now, what you do depends on what you have the tools/capability of doing. Before you go hacking off bits of your case tho, take the side panel off and hang that top fan near the GPU so it pushes the heat generated out of the case. You can use cardboard and tape to just hack something together, we are testing to make sure that will bring the temps down. If that does help solve the problem, then great! you have options.

The best option would be to mod in a side panel vent, and secure a fan to that. brings the heat out of your system, and fresher air to the GPU to keep it cool. However, unless carefully done this could ruin the sleek look of that alienware case, so its up to you to decide if you can live with that. The other option is much simpler, just drilling a big hole in the side of the case and bolting a fan to it. This will almost certainly break the aesthetic, but if you are concerned about performance over looks, it will be worth it.


----------



## Unknownm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Fixing CF temp issues. Top card would be 20c higher than bottom
> 
> First was fan profiles which worked well (top 100% , bottom 45%) but only gave good temps at stock core. Since I want to OC decided to close up sides. Now both GPU are almost even temp (2-3c off) and running 1025mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> update:. The bottom card only has complete duct tape. Top card is fully open.
> 
> I have to go more extreme. 2x fans blowing on the side + 1 outtake fan on the side. Using foam from packaging and duct tape to hold the fan in place. Now in Furmark 100% cards hit up to 90c meaning no more throttling (94c) and little bit more to push the core
Click to expand...





Even had to get more extreme. All methods before only slowed down the cards getting hot but never solved the problem.

I stripped them and to find the fans are screwed on the heatsink so took out the casing on each card and that was it. So far I hit 80c with 1047mhz (+6 core voltage) when before one of them would start throttling.


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

This is my yoyo. It keeps my 7970 and its massive air cooler from sagging its pants, while I power through the rest of today so i can mod that HDD bay and install a second 7970.


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker*
> 
> This is my yoyo. It keeps my 7970 and its massive air cooler from sagging its pants, while I power through the rest of today so i can mod that HDD bay and install a second 7970.


I'm disappointed the yo-yo isn't mentioned in your build details.









Also, are you just playing Linux-ported games, or are you leaning on Wine?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 
> Even had to get more extreme. All methods before only slowed down the cards getting hot but never solved the problem.
> 
> I stripped them and to find the fans are screwed on the heatsink so took out the casing on each card and that was it. So far I hit 80c with 1047mhz (+6 core voltage) when before one of them would start throttling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just put some 80mm fans on those cards with zip ties.


----------



## Unknownm

Being that the cards are so close together there wouldn't be much space for the fans to collect air. Unless I was able to get thin 80mm fans

Sent from my HTC Incredible S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## emsj86

My eyes our melting! Lol


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> I'm disappointed the yo-yo isn't mentioned in your build details.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, are you just playing Linux-ported games, or are you leaning on Wine?


I play linux port games like L4D2 sometimes, but I have been using wine. So far i got simple games to work, but not all of them, hence i still have windows 7 to play, and Xubuntu to work


----------



## nleksan

Regarding antifreeze...

I don't have the MSDS for it thus don't know the exact difference, but I would highly recommend that if you are interested in using AF, to get a gallon of BMW Coolant Concentrate. I do know that it was made to be less likely to have issues as a result of the metal and sulfur problems that the M60-series V8's had early on in production (Nikasil blocks).
I have used it for "Winter Benching", and it was far easier to clean up too.

Redline Water Wetter is a POTENTIALLY useful thing due to the increased heat transfer, but what works for my built 9krpm S54B32's @ 200F+ (most noticeable during endurance races, which is 12/24 or even 25hrs continuous) may have little to no benefit at PC H2O temps. It IS a potent anti-corrosive agent as well, however, and makes running pure distilled water (with a single bottle of WW) not just feasible but eliminated a source of significant expense for myself and countless others in the pro racing world (no longer do I need to preemptively replace the $1500 Zionsville radiator + $300 pump + $300 Samco Sport silicone tubing + $500 expansion tank assembly + $600 BMW Motorsports thermostat and Zionsville milled housing, every 50hrs of track time, which is a HUGE savings over the course of a single season in a single league, much less when competing in 2 or 3 simultaneously; plus the time saved is huge, hundreds of hours)...

All that said, I still have not found a better solution for computer liquid cooling than pure distilled water and a couple drops PT-Nuke PHN...


----------



## Gereti

Finally, i was able to build the 620 back in working condition, it's gonna be put to i3 itx pc


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Finally, i was able to build the 620 back in working condition, it's gonna be put to i3 itx pc


now thats risky zip ties as a clamp :0


----------



## Powerg4

Haha I guess you would be better off to use hose clamps there but hey as long as it works!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> now thats risky zip ties as a clamp :0


Should work like that









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Haha I guess you would be better off to use hose clamps there but hey as long as it works!


Correct









Have been tested it like 6 hours, without any leak's/problems


----------



## doyll

I wouldn't trust zip-ties instead of hose clamps. Very different beasts with very different purposes.


----------



## fragamemnon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I wouldn't trust zip-ties instead of hose clamps. Very different beasts with very different purposes.


Secure them with duct-tape.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fragamemnon*
> 
> Secure them with duct-tape.


Have to maby...

Put second zipties









That should fix "problems"


----------



## doyll

Duct tape surface of motherboard and all components to keep potential leaks from shorting things.


----------



## 0493mike

I think as long as their tight those zips will be fine. I have used them on my aio setup for the gpu and have had no problems. Even have one tube with no ties on thr res. But had to heat it up just to get it on the over sized fitting. Been about six months now and not a drop.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Have to maby...
> 
> Put second zipties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That should fix "problems"


I'm probably just paranoid but water and electrical components don't mix...that and I've had zipties randomly just let go over time...id say a few dollars in clamps for piece of mind is super worth it but I'm sure that will work fine until you can get some


----------



## 0493mike

When you put it that way. Makes me think why temp murffys law. If it can mess up it probably will. Yeap whats a couple of dollars comparied to a fried mobo. Need to get to the hardware store. Thanks


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I'm probably just paranoid but water and electrical components don't mix...that and I've had zipties randomly just let go over time...id say a few dollars in clamps for piece of mind is super worth it but I'm sure that will work fine until you can get some


i was have to use pieces of tubing's and heat bigger one's to even get them to fit in the fittings, and you say that "buy clamps" for guy who have 0.46€ in bank account, zipties do what need's enought fine so they will be there now, and future
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> When you put it that way. Makes me think why temp murffys law. If it can mess up it probably will. Yeap whats a couple of dollars comparied to a fried mobo. Need to get to the hardware store. Thanks


I like to live dangerously, even in electrick install's


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> i was have to use pieces of tubing's and heat bigger one's to even get them to fit in the fittings, and you say that "buy clamps" for guy who have 0.46€ in bank account, zipties do what need's enought fine so they will be there now, and future
> I like to live dangerously, even in electrick install's


trust me I know broke I make.14k a year I'm no stranger to broke lol


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Have to maby...
> 
> Put second zipties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That should fix "problems"


You must also be an electrician and or instrument tech.. lol I can fix ANYTHING with tie wraps


----------



## Powerg4

Haha zip ties are amazing!








Best thing I ever found at the hardware shop...
You should probably get hose clamps some time, but for now the zip ties should be fine!








Just check them regularly to make sure they aren't leaking, and let it run for like 12 hours to make sure it's ok!


----------



## jason793

Rad didn't come with enough screws for 4 fans. Painters tape works just as well.


----------



## Powerg4

Haha nice work








Nothing beats duct tape!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> You must also be an electrician and or instrument tech.. lol I can fix ANYTHING with tie wraps


I'm allmost, i have made several elektrick install's in school...even i'm ICT student...








SSoo i would be able to get electrick installer papers...maby...


----------



## Powerg4

What does you needs installers papers, just do's it yourself to yours own standardz!








Haha


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> What does you needs installers papers, just do's it yourself to yours own standardz!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha


Hehe, yeah, i'm ICT student, not electrician one









Aand the cooler, it's already been running the 12 hours in floor


----------



## Powerg4

Ah yes electrickery!
Sounds like the cooler will be fine then! Nice work!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Ah yes electrickery!
> Sounds like the cooler will be fine then! Nice work!


Mjeah, Thanks. Next i should rebuild my itx pc and put in on use,

...if i'm not too lazy one... like usually









Hmm, the itx pc older XFX550W model need's zipties too to get those cables in control









Edit: Zipties... Zipties everywhere


----------



## Powerg4

Yeah zipties sure do make the cables neater especially in old cases that don't have much in the way of cable management!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Yeah zipties sure do make the cables neater especially in old cases that don't have much in the way of cable management!


Well, the itx pc is builded to cooker master elite 130, so it's not old one but...tiny and "not so good cable management" owning case yes

But, avoiding too much /OT i post two of my project's, what i have made in last 5 years

Case Project:


http://imgur.com/a


Audio project:


http://imgur.com/a


----------



## Powerg4

Wow I really like that red computer!
Especially that awesome heatpipe cooler, I really want to get one of those, I'm so sick of the stock intel ones








Seems that the motherboard is mounted upside down?


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Wow I really like that red computer!
> Especially that awesome heatpipe cooler, I really want to get one of those, I'm so sick of the stock intel ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems that the motherboard is mounted upside down?


Yes, the cooler is Scythe Mugen 3, and yes, motherboard is mounted upside down, actually whole case is rotated, so top is bottom and bottom is...top


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Yes, the cooler is Scythe Mugen 3, and yes, motherboard is mounted upside down, actually whole case is rotated, so top is bottom and bottom is...top


I gotta say the portable radio is pretty cool...but where's the zip ties


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I gotta say the portable radio is pretty cool...but where's the zip ties


There wasn't needed them


----------



## Sadmoto

While doing some trouble shooting and cleaning I grabbed some pics of my ghetto riggings!

Here I zip tied a 80mm fan from my 8320's stock heat sink on to my coolmaster Tx-3, helped my GPU vrm temps by 3c.










This is my anti-sag setup! 2 chopsticks at just the right height with a little electrical tape. It works really well too.










This is my hard drives ziptied to some chassis that normally would have the slide bays but since I got my case from the garbage, I had to improvise.










Here is some Neon green zebra duct tape holding in the power cable for my side 200mm fan, When I got the case it was ripped out so I popped the cable in the slot, put some tap and closed the casing, works like new.







unless I pull the cable out when putting the side back on










The last 2 I'm proud of, about a year ago I was moving drives while cleaning and without knowing the cable got pulled out, the pins were bent and you can even see there is one inside the sata cable that broke off, the plastic that sits around the pins also broke off. So what did I do after I thought it was broke beyond repair? I put the piece of plastic inside the sata cable, lined it up as it should and I used nail glue to make the cable and drive one. I did this because I figured it was broke so I said hey why not, AND I GOT IT TO WORK and it is still working a year later.










I have to be VERY VERY VERY gentle and precise when I the hard drive bay back in the case, but if I'm careful it boots up like normal.


----------



## Pawelr98

My xperia M had damaged usb port. When removing the usb port I damaged the tracks so I had to do something.
Sony engineers left some alternative spots that are connected to Usb lines.
The alternative spots are visible on the photo #2 (gold plated circles)
I manged to solder +5V Line to one of those spots and other wire to ground.
Effect ?
-Charging works every time (before I had to move usb plug around to make it work and even then there was a high chance that It would disconnect)

That's for these mods. Later I will solder the rest of the lines to get full usb port + usb OTG switch.


----------



## Gereti

There the cooler is now


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> There the cooler is now


Post to that rate my cables thread


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> Post to that rate my cables thread


Mainpc


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Mainpc


lol...who needs airflow


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> lol...who needs airflow


Well, there is airflow actually, and i dont even use sidepanel, pc gives lighting in my dark room on weekend night's


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Mainpc


Haha ha...... That's border line traumatic, what temps do you get?


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> Haha ha...... That's border line traumatic, what temps do you get?


"Idle"

Usually in gaming, cpu hit's max 60*C and gpu max 65*C
Gpu cooler is running 24/7 100% but cpu cooler is running from motherboard pwm settings "quiet"


----------



## wilson44512

i modded my alienware R3. if ya want to call it that? lol added some fans. just got done with it. so i havent had a chance to see how good it works when gaming.





































even replaced the pci fan


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wilson44512*
> 
> i modded my alienware R3. if ya want to call it that? lol added some fans. just got done with it. so i havent had a chance to see how good it works when gaming.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> even replaced the pci fan


Love it.

Plywood is the way to go for mad ghetto cooling power.


----------



## Powerg4

Haha nice, maybe paint that plywood flat black!


----------



## madcat23

Not sure if thisis rigged enough for this thread but its an old screen window cut into a circle to make a dust filter for my large case side fan...easy to take off and clean and saves me having to rip apart my whole rig as often to clean the dust out


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

So the fans on my Accelero 7970 died.... instead of doing something legit, i just strapped on some Fractal 92mm fans... Temps are actually pretty good, and actually super quite. Was not expecting 92's to be so quiet







also... they are mounted with zip ties



Also, i upgraded from my 212+ to an AIO liquid cooler, (on sale of course) but found out i cant close the side panel, so what do i do? DREMEL! (the plastic shroud).. And no duct tape.. so scotch tape











GLAM SHOT!

Also my ghetto bedside table made of a Phantom 240 box and a sheet of acrylic


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker*
> 
> So the fans on my Accelero 7970 died.... instead of doing something legit, i just strapped on some Fractal 92mm fans... Temps are actually pretty good, and actually super quite. Was not expecting 92's to be so quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also... they are mounted with zip ties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also, i upgraded from my 212+ to an AIO liquid cooler, (on sale of course) but found out i cant close the side panel, so what do i do? DREMEL! (the plastic shroud).. And no duct tape.. so scotch tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GLAM SHOT!
> 
> Also my ghetto bedside table made of a Phantom 240 box and a sheet of acrylic
> 
> [
> 
> 
> /quote]
> I've done similar several times. Usually not because GPU fans die, but just because they are too loud. The Arctic F9 TC, F120 TC work very well. Just slip the temperature control sensor behind the finpack and fans cycle as cooling is needed.


----------



## OdinValk

This isn't quite as ghetto... Since its not something I did to the build itself.... But I got tired of my huge case taking up so much room ....And well... Things got interesting


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> This isn't quite as ghetto... Since its not something I did to the build itself.... But I got tired of my huge case taking up so much room ....And well... Things got interesting


rofl....you needed more fans wouldn't have melted into the desk like that


----------



## weespid

while quite a while ago i said i would post some of my personal gheto rigs i ended up not getting around to that untill now









my first ever ghetto rig done to an computer done when i was 8 - 10 with the help of my dad was putting front usb on to a bigie box


it was don by taking an front pannal usb from an scraped compact and useing l brackets scrued in to the case to hold them on

my second ghetto adventure came much latter and it was to keep an oced 210 temps in check held the fan in with electrical tape sadly no pictures but the first upgrade to that was to use a bent pop out pci slot cover



Then i have my 2 failed versions of the mod on my 7950

(zip ties sadly un documented )

custom bracket made out of psu pannal





Then not really gehto but knocked a chip off of my 9600gt and broke the back legs and soldered it back on


My current team speak server was built from a laptop i got from my cousin a long time ago could never diagnose the problem. Meany years latter needed a display for an project while recurching the laptop it turned out that the heat pipe in these acers commonly lost there fluid and would fail to transfer heat to the fins sure enough that was the problem stuck an 1gb usb key in there loaded unbunto the fan has never span up once in the 4 mounts of constant operation stole the heat pipe from some random laptop and bent it to fit




next i have my pin on volt meter plug for tracing tiny phone circuits



and i swair some one posted almost the same thing on here before micro usb port broke on my friends rigged this up as a temp fix




mope toy guys enjoyed the ghetones its late now will edit post tomorrow to make it cleener


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> while quite a while ago i said i would post some of my personal gheto rigs i ended up not getting around to that untill now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my first ever ghetto rig done to an computer done when i was 8 - 10 with the help of my dad was putting front usb on to a bigie box
> 
> 
> it was don by taking an front pannal usb from an scraped compact and useing l brackets scrued in to the case to hold them on
> 
> my second ghetto adventure came much latter and it was to keep an oced 210 temps in check held the fan in with electrical tape sadly no pictures but the first upgrade to that was to use a bent pop out pci slot cover
> 
> 
> 
> Then i have my 2 failed versions of the mod on my 7950
> 
> (zip ties sadly un documented )
> 
> custom bracket made out of psu pannal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then not really gehto but knocked a chip off of my 9600gt and broke the back legs and soldered it back on
> 
> 
> My current team speak server was built from a laptop i got from my cousin a long time ago could never diagnose the problem. Meany years latter needed a display for an project while recurching the laptop it turned out that the heat pipe in these acers commonly lost there fluid and would fail to transfer heat to the fins sure enough that was the problem stuck an 1gb usb key in there loaded unbunto the fan has never span up once in the 4 mounts of constant operation stole the heat pipe from some random laptop and bent it to fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> next i have my pin on volt meter plug for tracing tiny phone circuits
> 
> 
> 
> and i swair some one posted almost the same thing on here before micro usb port broke on my friends rigged this up as a temp fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mope toy guys enjoyed the ghetones its late now will edit post tomorrow to make it cleener


Incredible ghetto, well done.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> and i swair some one posted almost the same thing on here before micro usb port broke on my friends rigged this up as a temp fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mope toy guys enjoyed the ghetones its late now will edit post tomorrow to make it cleener


Same fix here for the same phone.
Xperia M have crappy USB ports that break down easily.





Now I have stronger cables soldered but the connections are the same.

There are those "alternative" usb spots.
These gold plated points.

The #3 picture, Gold plate on the left is USB +5V (wire is soldered there).


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Same fix here for the same phone.
> Xperia M have crappy USB ports that break down easily.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have stronger cables soldered but the connections are the same.
> 
> There are those "alternative" usb spots.
> These gold plated points.
> 
> The #3 picture, Gold plate on the left is USB +5V (wire is soldered there).


I remembed seeing your post before and was going to ask you but could not find your post now since the phone was sitting for 3 months I got it to turn on once but now it on the charging battery screen and dissconects from the charger after 3 min If I un plug it from the charger I get a 3 red led flashes if I try to turn it on just wondering if you had this issue and if you solved it

Edit just got home it has been on the charger for five hours booted up with 14% battery but it will not charge when the phone is on do the data pins need to be shorted to charge when in the os


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> I remembed seeing your post before and was going to ask you but could not find your post now since the phone was sitting for 3 months I got it to turn on once but now it on the charging battery screen and dissconects from the charger after 3 min If I un plug it from the charger I get a 3 red led flashes if I try to turn it on just wondering if you had this issue and if you solved it
> 
> Edit just got home it has been on the charger for five hours booted up with 14% battery but it will not charge when the phone is on do the data pins need to be shorted to charge when in the os


This is like this:
If the phone has any charge on the battery then connecting wires to the power source will make it discharge.
So to charge:
-Deplete the battery
-connect the power source
-DO NOT TURN ON THE SCREEN WHILE CHARGING (it will make the battery discharge again)
It takes about 2days to charge to ~75%. The power flow is really low (0.1A 5V).
I tried connecting the power to the original pins but without effect(same power flow).

I'm going to try and connect the rest of wires.I will also tinker with original pins bit more.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> This is like this:
> If the phone has any charge on the battery then connecting wires to the power source will make it discharge.
> So to charge:
> -Deplete the battery
> -connect the power source
> -DO NOT TURN ON THE SCREEN WHILE CHARGING (it will make the battery discharge again)
> It takes about 2days to charge to ~75%. The power flow is really low (0.1A 5V).
> I tried connecting the power to the original pins but without effect(same power flow).
> 
> I'm going to try and connect the rest of wires.I will also tinker with original pins bit more.


While I was hoping to bring you good news by connecting the rest of the wires but I deglued the pads in the process d- and d+ only in less there are some more solder points on the board it looks like I'm Sol a also found a second 5volt solder point Its on top of the litle round thing between the two rf shields if you have some time to try to track a d+ d- pin that would be amazing anyway I will now go and put it on the charger for the weekend so I can get it on and extract the data thanks


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> While I was hoping to bring you good news by connecting the rest of the wires but I deglued the pads in the process d- and d+ only in less there are some more solder points on the board it looks like I'm Sol a also found a second 5volt solder point Its on top of the litle round thing between the two rf shields if you have some time to try to track a d+ d- pin that would be amazing anyway I will now go and put it on the charger for the weekend so I can get it on and extract the data thanks


D+ and D- are those small golden circles over the original solder points.

I'm using exactly this alternative +5V spot. There are alternative spots for every line of usb connector, +5V,D+,D-,Sense, Ground (can be even the RF shield).


----------



## weespid

any way lets get this thread back on topic my wall was really bland and i had a desk full of parts that needed to be cleaned off the end result was this





excuse the messy desk as i was working on some msc projects at the time not sure if this is ghetto enough for this thread though


----------



## Boinz

My GTX 660 was rattling due to sag, even when tightly screwed on the bracket size. Finally stopped the rattling.


----------



## Max78

I just did this today for a friend, He had a sub $100 budget so we made it work, plays Path Of Exile, War Thunder, and some other games just fine.

Here is a link to the tread for people more interested in it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1541460/supercharged-lenovo-m57p-slim-thinkcentre

http://s35.photobucket.com/user/A_Deer/media/Supercharged Lenovo/CAM00305_zps8aqqpfdj.jpg.html


----------



## caliking420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Max78*
> 
> I just did this today for a friend, He had a sub $100 budget so we made it work, plays Path Of Exile, War Thunder, and some other games just fine.
> 
> http://s35.photobucket.com/user/A_Deer/media/Supercharged Lenovo/CAM00305_zps8aqqpfdj.jpg.html


Nice!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> any way lets get this thread back on topic my wall was really bland and i had a desk full of parts that needed to be cleaned off the end result was this
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2354154/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2354155/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2354156/width/350/height/700
> 
> excuse the messy desk as i was working on some msc projects at the time not sure if this is ghetto enough for this thread though


Messy desk? That's not messy, Sometimes I can't even see my desk because it's covered in random parts.

I might do the same with my walls. I'm thinking of doing the wall shame and the wall of fame.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Max78*
> 
> I just did this today for a friend, He had a sub $100 budget so we made it work, plays Path Of Exile, War Thunder, and some other games just fine.
> 
> Here is a link to the tread for people more interested in it.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1541460/supercharged-lenovo-m57p-slim-thinkcentre
> 
> http://s35.photobucket.com/user/A_Deer/media/Supercharged Lenovo/CAM00305_zps8aqqpfdj.jpg.html


now that is a worthy ghetto







going to check out that thread now


----------



## DR4G00N

I didn't have any extra fans for my not yet finished secondary rig, so I improvised









I made it using a practically useless XFX HD 7950 DD heatsink shroud and soldered on a random usb cable for 5v power.

It blows a good amount of air while being near silent.


----------



## Powerg4

Now that is true case modding!








Need to have a look at the thread haha


----------



## generalkayoss

Yeah... my whole rig is "ghetto" to some degree.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I see it almost every day. cars come in with old dex in them and when u take the radiator cap off it is full of a muddy looking sludge.
> 
> 
> 
> what y'all fail to mention is though.. that sludge more than likely comes from stuff passing through the air filter and into the intake... or just crap that builds up in the bottom of the radiator anyway.. I HIGHLY doubt a watercooling rad will have the same problem... no matter which ant-freeze is used
Click to expand...

except... for the last century or so, automotive (water)cooling is a (pressurized) closed loop

the only way to get crap in the water is by using tap or pond water
or parts of the hoses or dissimilar metals slowly disintegrating.
OR by a failing/blown gasket/seal - but in that case most of the time water gets into the oil.. very very rarely oil into the water.. although it can happen that due to a blocked sump vent the pressure in the engine builds up, blows a (pinhole) hole in the gasket and exhaust gas gets into the (water)cooling side. But that aint a daily occurance either.

I DO accept that dex might be so aggressive that it rots hoses from the inside out... but air getting into the water through the air filter... NO.

Sorry, but this has been festering for a few weeks, and i couldn't let it go... i just HAD to comment on this.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> While I was hoping to bring you good news by connecting the rest of the wires but I deglued the pads in the process d- and d+ only in less there are some more solder points on the board it looks like I'm Sol a also found a second 5volt solder point Its on top of the litle round thing between the two rf shields if you have some time to try to track a d+ d- pin that would be amazing anyway I will now go and put it on the charger for the weekend so I can get it on and extract the data thanks


Shorting Data+ with Data- works. 3% battery through ~2minutes.
But I went much further than this.

Usb mode works just fine.

Detected in windows









And now the best part. I have cut single usb port from old case front panel.Added OTG switch. My FiiO E07K works just fine with it.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Shorting Data+ with Data- works. 3% battery through ~2minutes.
> But I went much further than this.
> 
> Usb mode works just fine.
> 
> Detected in windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And now the best part. I have cut single usb port from old case front panel.Added OTG switch. My FiiO E07K works just fine with it.


Nice glad to see that it worked for you but I'm still Sol because as hopefully as u saw in my pm when removing the usbport the data + data - and sence contacts got pulled from the board and the data +'- go down a level through the pins hence the little silver dot where the gold pads should be ( where the micro USB port goes ) and have not been able to trace another point or get solder to stick to those Also looked for board layout schematics on google and could not find any

So that's why I was asking if you have any free time could you try to track down anouthe d+'- point if possible sence on the board (in to an resistor / any of the other various pads around the board ) that would be greatly approached

As I have devorced parents 50/50 split and Monday is the day I change houses I won't be able to work on it for a week Also don't have any current pictures or the phone to try to better describe what I mean thanks in advance and I want to see the finished product of that

I wish I had a picture of more ghetto to bring this three back on topic but I currently don't








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Messy desk? That's not messy, Sometimes I can't even see my desk because it's covered in random parts.
> 
> I might do the same with my walls. I'm thinking of doing the wall shame and the wall of fame.


Wall of shame and wall of fame is a great idea mabey wall of cool in the middle ( depending on wall size )


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> Nice glad to see that it worked for you but I'm still Sol because as hopefully as u saw in my pm when removing the usbport the data + data - and sence contacts got pulled from the board and the data +'- go down a level through the pins hence the little silver dot where the gold pads should be ( where the micro USB port goes ) and have not been able to trace another point or get solder to stick to those Also looked for board layout schematics on google and could not find any
> 
> So that's why I was asking if you have any free time could you try to track down anouthe d+'- point if possible sence on the board (in to an resistor / any of the other various pads around the board ) that would be greatly approached
> 
> As I have devorced parents 50/50 split and Monday is the day I change houses I won't be able to work on it for a week Also don't have any current pictures or the phone to try to better describe what I mean thanks in advance and I want to see the finished product of that
> 
> I wish I had a picture of more ghetto to bring this three back on topic but I currently don't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wall of shame and wall of fame is a great idea mabey wall of cool in the middle ( depending on wall size )


Use multimeter and check if there's any "catch" in those places. Put one probe on RF shield and the second one is for searching any contact. Set the multimeter for resistance checking.
If multimeter shows anything it means there's a chance to still get signal from those damaged points(unless it shows 0 ohm or something close to that, then you got the ground and not Data pins).
There are conductive lacquers or special "pens" for repairing traces. This way you may be able to recover the lines.

I think Data lines go inside of the RF shield covered area so It would be almost impossible to get wires in there without doing any holes in the metal shield.

Still my mod is not that perfect.Mouse,DAC work ok in USB port but pendrives refuse to be detected by the OS.
Perhaps some more tinkering with usb port should od the trick.
Or connecting through the usb hub may do the trick.

Short video showing the mod.




Pardon the low-quality english. I was tired after tinkering with this phone for couple of hours.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Use multimeter and check if there's any "catch" in those places. Put one probe on RF shield and the second one is for searching any contact. Set the multimeter for resistance checking.
> If multimeter shows anything it means there's a chance to still get signal from those damaged points(unless it shows 0 ohm or something close to that, then you got the ground and not Data pins).
> There are conductive lacquers or special "pens" for repairing traces. This way you may be able to recover the lines.
> 
> I think Data lines go inside of the RF shield covered area so It would be almost impossible to get wires in there without doing any holes in the metal shield.
> 
> Still my mod is not that perfect.Mouse,DAC work ok in USB port but pendrives refuse to be detected by the OS.
> Perhaps some more tinkering with usb port should od the trick.
> Or connecting through the usb hub may do the trick.
> 
> Short video showing the mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pardon the low-quality english. I was tired after tinkering with this phone for couple of hours.


That's OK the rf shields are clip on so they are very easy to take off deffentaly no contunity left in the trace and have no way to follow the trace as from what I see the solder pad goes to the port pin then down an level in the PCB And as my port pin s was pulled off I have no way to check for contunity to points under the rf shild


----------



## MadRabbit

At first I thought I won't post it as it makes me look stupid but what the hell right?

So building my current build I ordered all the parts and everything but forgot to look up the dimensions of my 280x's.

All tandy and fine, everything arrived the same time, fitted the mobo, PSU, coolers etc etc. First that pissed me off is that I can't close my side because the Evo 212 is too high up and the side won't even be close to fitting into it's spot. Okay, I can live with that. More heat for my room in the winter, that's always useful right?

Now, trying to fit my cards, oh that's a whole other story. Tried to fit the first but suddenly the HDD bays seemed to be too close and they were so I figured for an hour what to do and since I didn't have any spare cash at that moment to actually buy a new case (and since this current Gigabyte case was around €40) I decided to get metal siccors and make some room. For both of the cards. Now I'm missing about 4 slots of HDD bays and some sharp edges around them.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadRabbit*
> 
> At first I thought I won't post it as it makes me look stupid but what the hell right?
> 
> So building my current build I ordered all the parts and everything but forgot to look up the dimensions of my 280x's.
> 
> All tandy and fine, everything arrived the same time, fitted the mobo, PSU, coolers etc etc. First that pissed me off is that I can't close my side because the Evo 212 is too high up and the side won't even be close to fitting into it's spot. Okay, I can live with that. More heat for my room in the winter, that's always useful right?
> 
> Now, trying to fit my cards, oh that's a whole other story. Tried to fit the first but suddenly the HDD bays seemed to be too close and they were so I figured for an hour what to do and since I didn't have any spare cash at that moment to actually buy a new case (and since this current Gigabyte case was around €40) I decided to get metal siccors and make some room. For both of the cards. Now I'm missing about 4 slots of HDD bays and some sharp edges around them.


Pics????
Mod the side panel too


----------



## MadRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Pics????
> Mod the side panel too


Oh right, sorry.

Try not to laugh












I actually have now smoothened the sharp edges as much as I could not to hurt the cables.









I seriously need to buy a new case lol.


----------



## Jimbags

Hey at least it works shoulda painted it black. It hides alot 
also turn the cpu cooler horizontal its going to be sucking heat straight off your gpu's :/


----------



## MadRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Hey at least it works shoulda painted it black. It hides alot
> also turn the cpu cooler horizontal its going to be sucking heat straight off your gpu's :/


Did that already, those pics were taken when I put it together a long time ago.







Thought you'd notice that


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadRabbit*
> 
> Did that already, those pics were taken when I put it together a long time ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought you'd notice that


metal files...







and by that I don't mean slayer lol


----------



## MadRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> metal files...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and by that I don't mean slayer lol


Dont really understand what you mean


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadRabbit*
> 
> Dont really understand what you mean


sorry I was telling you.to use a metal file or files on the edges...the second part was a joke about metal music


----------



## MadRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> sorry I was telling you.to use a metal file or files on the edges...the second part was a joke about metal music


Oh







Done that, just waiting my personal economy to get better and will buy a new case anyway.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadRabbit*
> 
> Oh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done that, just waiting my personal economy to get better and will buy a new case anyway.


yeah I'm waiting on my tax return to mod my case and add some extras to my build


----------



## Jimbags

My tax return will sadly go on bills or savings for house. Cant wait for the day Im setup and can build my ultimate rig in my ultimate mancave!  BTW tax sucks politicians here just do what they want anyways. I hate seeing how much tax Ive paid each week. About $42,000 Australian already for the financial year :-(


----------



## jspanking

best I got lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> My tax return will sadly go on bills or savings for house. Cant wait for the day Im setup and can build my ultimate rig in my ultimate mancave!  BTW tax sucks politicians here just do what they want anyways. I hate seeing how much tax Ive paid each week. About $42,000 Australian already for the financial year :-(


but that means you made a nice sum.. i made around 19k USD and paid in 4300... got back 1600 or will get back


----------



## Jimbags

Yeah I got to work on a really well paying project for 6 months. Our financial years last day is 31st June so I still have approx 20 weeks left. Im paying around 33% tax at the moment. Im on a lot less than I was last year though im guessing ill pay around $50,000 for this financial year.Hoping for a really good return. Just hate seeing the government get so much when all they do is squabble and dont really work for us .Like theyre elected to.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Yeah I got to work on a really well paying project for 6 months. Our financial years last day is 31st June so I still have approx 20 weeks left. Im paying around 33% tax at the moment. Im on a lot less than I was last year though im guessing ill pay around $50,000 for this financial year.Hoping for a really good return. Just hate seeing the government get so much when all they do is squabble and dont really work for us .Like theyre elected to.


agreed...unless you literally make next to nothing you get nothing


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> agreed...unless you literally make next to nothing you get nothing


if you earn 18k or ess in australia you get all tax you pay back


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jspanking*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> best I got lol


Dear god is that an Antec Sonata case? I had one of the originals that I gave to a friend not long ago.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> if you earn 18k or ess in australia you get all tax you pay back


must be nice here in the states you get about 33 percent back until you hit 35k ish...and only way to get back everything you paid in is if you make less than the standard deduction which this year was 6200 I think...or if you have children


----------



## MadRabbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> must be nice here in the states you get about 33 percent back until you hit 35k ish...and only way to get back everything you paid in is if you make less than the standard deduction which this year was 6200 I think...or if you have children


Man, we don't get back anything. I mean, this year I got back 0.01 cents. ***.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadRabbit*
> 
> Man, we don't get back anything. I mean, this year I got back 0.01 cents. ***.


ouch...people here that make over 40k often have to pay in if they claim themselves as an exemption...(means less taken out each check but possibility for underpayment at end of the year)...having kids or dependants to claim makes this a lot less likely though...my mother's fiance made 128k and will likely have to pay 10k and end of the year even though he paid in more than I made

On topic though...


----------



## Turdsandwitch

glad im not the only one who had a "desk rig" for a while.


----------



## jspanking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MURDoctrine*
> 
> Dear god is that an Antec Sonata case? I had one of the originals that I gave to a friend not long ago.


ya ive upgraded since to a cooler master haf XB. Still have the case in front room as backup PC/file server though


----------



## PurdueBoy

I should probably get in on the ghetto shenanigans.



Foam: Check
Duct tape: Check

Massive Performance Increase: Check

On a side note the performance increase from this is massive in the iMac in my sig. Feels like a brand new machine. Even with the Sata 2 limit.


----------



## BradleyW

Would a shoggy be classed as ghetto?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would a shoggy be classed as ghetto?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thought about getting one at one point. Didn't realize how damn thick it is, glad I decided not to (not that it doesn't work for your needs, just not mine)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would a shoggy be classed as ghetto?


which case is that...it's roomy


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> which case is that...it's roomy


I believe it's the Xigmatek Elysium judging by all those 5.25" bays.
Sadly it's EOL so it's hard to find now.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BradleyW*
> 
> Would a shoggy be classed as ghetto?


If its home made than I would say so


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> If its home made than I would say so


Not really:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-000-MM

Removes the vibrations. I have a slight pitched whine from the pump at full speed. Any tips on hiding the noise? Foam around the pump?


----------



## cravinmild

im not seeing the ghetto ... is it that nanaimo bar you pump is sitting on


----------



## MURDoctrine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> im not seeing the ghetto ... is it that nanaimo bar you pump is sitting on


They are and if it isn't home made then it doesn't count in my opinion. Now my folded paper towel one is


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> im not seeing the ghetto ... is it that nanaimo bar you pump is sitting on


Delicious!


----------



## yojofizz

Love looking at these! you either love it or it's painful to watch


----------



## philhalo66

not PC related but i bought a broken XBOX 360 off eBay and after i fixed the RRoD this is what i came up with to keep it cool


----------



## Puck

Last semi-ghetto thing I did was turn my screw in fan grills into magnetic ones. Just used a stack of tiny hobby magnets, some crazy glue, and a drill bit the same size as the magnets to sink them into the frames evenly.

Worked great, now I can clean my grills nice and quickly which is important with my two dogs staying inside now







. It took ages before with all the tiny screws...I have 16 intake fans and it was 4 tiny screws each







.


----------



## Jump3r

Getto rigged 500 led's into RJ45's to trace the patch panel with 9V battery form wall jacks. Then rewired into the new Ciso switches. ROFL all the led's left in were not used patches maybe over ordered on the cisco switches.

Check out the pics below lol


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Before



Inbetween



After


----------



## Nightfallx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jump3r*
> 
> Getto rigged 500 led's into RJ45's to trace the patch panel with 9V battery form wall jacks. Then rewired into the new Ciso switches. ROFL all the led's left in were not used patches maybe over ordered on the cisco switches.
> 
> Check out the pics below lol


those cabinets are much cleaner then the ones at my work.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jump3r*
> 
> Getto rigged 500 led's into RJ45's to trace the patch panel with 9V battery form wall jacks. Then rewired into the new Ciso switches. ROFL all the led's left in were not used patches maybe over ordered on the cisco switches.
> 
> Check out the pics below lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before
> 
> 
> 
> Inbetween
> 
> 
> 
> After


that's a good idea...and also why it's important to label the crap out of any cable you run especially that many...my old ccna teacher made us label every 4 foot with tape and proper tagging on the ends...it was time consuming but it made life so much easier once he introduced the troubleshooting phases


----------



## hartofwave

So I'm trying to bake a motherboard back to life, how's everyone's evening going?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Speaking of baking, I just baked my GTX 580 back to life. The caps swelled a little so I might replace them to be on the safe side. Two caps also fell off and I had to resolder them back in, at least I know the solder melted. The card lives so all is good.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Speaking of baking, I just baked my GTX 580 back to life. The caps swelled a little so I might replace them to be on the safe side. Two caps also fell off and I had to resolder them back in, at least I know the solder melted. The card lives so all is good.


how'd you bake it? oven, toaster oven, heat gun? got a buddy who's 560ti 448 cuda recently died, and now he's stuck with a 550. thinking we might try it on his


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I used a toaster over. It's much faster than heating up a regular oven. I did have to reapply thermal paste to the IHS because the old stuff became solid under that heat.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1156145/official-guide-modifying-removing-nvidia-gpu-heat-spreader-ihs/0_20

I didn't use a razor to get it off, I used an old feeler gauge set which worked much better. It's easier to remove when the card is still a little warm. I would also recommend using longs screws or something to support the card in the oven so you don't knock any parts off like I did


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I used a toaster over. It's much faster than heating up a regular oven. I did have to reapply thermal paste to the IHS because the old stuff became solid under that heat.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1156145/official-guide-modifying-removing-nvidia-gpu-heat-spreader-ihs/0_20
> 
> I didn't use a razor to get it off, I used an old feeler gauge set which worked much better. It's easier to remove when the card is still a little warm. I would also recommend using longs screws or something to support the card in the oven so you don't knock any parts off like I did


what temp did you bake it at?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I did 475F but that was too much. If I were to do it again I would try 425F or a little lower. It took less than 10 minutes to melt the solder.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I did 475F but that was too much. If I were to do it again I would try 425F or a little lower. It took less than 10 minutes to melt the solder.


I would probably use 350 and just less time to reduce chance of.melting things that shouldn't be


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I did 475F but that was too much. If I were to do it again I would try 425F or a little lower. It took less than 10 minutes to melt the solder.
> 
> 
> 
> I would probably use 350 and just less time to reduce chance of.melting things that shouldn't be
Click to expand...

60/40 solder, the kind most often used for electronic connections, melts at 370° so 350° wouldn't do the job. I would use at least 400°.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

So I'm going to try and cram a server motherboard in a mini ITX case. Wish me luck!









And just so you don't think I'm too crazy, it's a Prodigy.









...Fine, I lied. It's a 1U-twin or half-SSI board or whatever it's called, meaning mITX height with one PCIe slot but SSI EEB width for two sockets. The case in question is the deep-as-a-full-tower HAF Stacker 915R. The R version of this works horribly for mITX systems, since the CPU and cooler sit right under the PSU, but it's decent for a server board (with mods of course - gotta fit the extra standoffs somehow!) since the southbridges or VRMs sit under the PSU intake instead. Much, much nicer and more space efficient in comparison. I'm thinking about grabbing two cases. One for a dual LGA-1366 system now and one for a dual-G34 system later when they get cheaper.


----------



## weespid

3days ago I just took my biggest risk in the computing world for a free* upgrade I got rid of my fx 6100 for an fx 8350+ an hp motherboard (not pictured) that looks like this


Then I went and straghend the pins ( 6 broke off )

After doing that i put the cpu into its socket and it posted but was burning the vrms and looked like an clock pin was missing 194 fsb locked ( no pictures)
so i made some copper shims from some old telephone wire and put them in the socket


now the chip posts and runs stable at stock









edit
* it was not free sold the 6100 for the same price of the motherboard guy through in an broken 8350

some plerminy overclocking yealds expected average results


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Here you Go


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











The Cautious One


----------



## Faster_is_better

This is always a great thread to come back to and catch up


----------



## iCrap

290 on a riser hanging out of the case

No, it didn't work







(well it sort of did)


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> 290 on a riser hanging out of the case
> 
> No, it didn't work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (well it sort of did)


I cant see clearly.. where is the riser plugged and why didnt it work riser usually work fine?


----------



## MadRabbit

Got one more story from the past when I worked for an electronic company.

On our christmas break we got an small mp3 (Acme something it was...) player from them as a "gift" but since our work days were 8 hours long and the battery in that only lasted about 4 I decided to "upgrade" it a little.

Went out, bought 2 2000mah rechargable (duh, cant remember the spelling in English) batteries and got on it. Basically connected those two to the main circuit of the old battery inside. Got an whopping week out of it (at work) and I'm actually amazed it worked like that but that wasn't for long until the board gave up entirely.

Sadly don't have any pictures as that was almost 7 years ago now


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I cant see clearly.. where is the riser plugged and why didnt it work riser usually work fine?


The riser is that blue cable. I don't know why it didn't work. The PC detected it but refused to put it into crossfire with the other 2


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Does crossfire have a minimum lane requirement? I think it might have one, but I'm not actually sure. Looks like you got one of those USB 3.0 cable-based risers, which can only carry one lane's worth of data.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Does crossfire have a minimum lane requirement? I think it might have one, but I'm not actually sure. Looks like you got one of those USB 3.0 cable-based risers, which can only carry one lane's worth of data.


I'm pretty sure it needs a minimum of a 4x lane for crossfire to function.


----------



## Gareth Ward

`
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it needs a minimum of a 4x lane for crossfire to function.


Yup needs at least a 4x


----------



## iCrap

ohh that makes sense then.


----------



## Master__Shake

turned my workbench in to a test bench.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> turned my workbench in to a test bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's not ghetto, too clean. Also, that's a really good idea









Here's a ghetto test bench


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> My GTX 660 was rattling due to sag, even when tightly screwed on the bracket size. Finally stopped the rattling.


I did that a while back, plastic conduit to prop up gpu sag on a 5870 in old rig. Works perfectly









I have a 120mm fan blowing on my Northbridge, i mounted it in position with mecano, can point it exaclty were i want.
Have lots of mecano hanging around so it was easy to do, works well, suprised dont see more people using it for mounting stuff.



Yes i have 2 different colour tubing white and clear as i ran out of white and had clear left over so...in it went







Ghetto style mash up.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> turned my workbench in to a test bench.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's not ghetto, too clean. Also, that's a really good idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a ghetto test bench
Click to expand...

Nah, you need to use a couple of C clamps to keep the MB & OD & PSU & stuff in place


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Nah, you need to use a couple of C clamps to keep the MB & OD & PSU & stuff in place


C-clamps too expensive, use duct zip ties.


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> C-clamps too expensive, use duct zip ties.


NO.

You need to make a test bench out of mecano or lego








Now that would be Ghetto imo.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superj1977*
> 
> NO.
> 
> You need to make a test bench out of mecano or lego
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that would be Ghetto imo.


Use thumb tacks and a particle board that you may have illicitly borrowed from a classroom/office >_>


----------



## Master__Shake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superj1977*
> 
> NO.
> 
> You need to make a test bench out of mecano or lego
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that would be Ghetto imo.


lego is a brilliant idea!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> lego is a brilliant idea!


Lincoln logs ftw....my I'm showing my age


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> lego is a brilliant idea!
> 
> 
> 
> Lincoln logs ftw....my I'm showing my age
Click to expand...

Tinker toys would probably allow you to build a lighter weight frame and might be more stable.


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> lego is a brilliant idea!


Yeah it is and its been done before, i would like a test bench layout on my desktop next to my monitors, im sick of my big case.
Perhaps i will make one if i get bored one day, i would think mecano could be used as well to some extent for framework to hold up rads etc but would need a proper motherboard tray with standoffs etc.

Thing is...my cat will just hump the crap out of it, thats whats shes like, shes see's stuff and kills it with hair and claws


----------



## Teplous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superj1977*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I fail to see how this is Ghetto? That's just straight up awesome.


----------



## Dyaems

not ghetto indeed


----------



## cravinmild

made with lego IMO that is ghetto enough to post here


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teplous*
> 
> I fail to see how this is Ghetto? That's just straight up awesome.


NO, your totally right, its not ghetto i just went off on one dreaming about a lego or mecano test bench then spotted this case made from lego.

Its neat as hell though and really has got me thinking about if i could make one.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Lincoln logs ftw....my I'm showing my age


If it makes you feel better I played with lincoln logs as a kid and I'm only 24.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> If it makes you feel better I played with lincoln logs as a kid and I'm only 24.


kids now will never know the simplistic joy of lincoln logs....


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> kids now will never know the simplistic joy of lincoln logs....


I'm 21 and I still have my lincoln logs in my closet. Lincoln logs will not die!!!!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Lincoln logs ftw....my I'm showing my age
> 
> 
> 
> If it makes you feel better I played with lincoln logs as a kid and I'm only 24.
Click to expand...

Don't feel too bad,when I was a kid... they were called Washington logs.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superj1977*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> lego is a brilliant idea!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it is and its been done before, i would like a test bench layout on my desktop next to my monitors, im sick of my big case.
> Perhaps i will make one if i get bored one day, i would think mecano could be used as well to some extent for framework to hold up rads etc but would need a proper motherboard tray with standoffs etc.
> 
> Thing is...my cat will just hump the crap out of it, thats whats shes like, shes see's stuff and kills it with hair and claws
Click to expand...

Do they still make Mecano? The wholw sets with the girders and electric motors etc?


----------



## DR4G00N

My rig just keeps on getting more ghetto by the day









Latest addition:


GPU 1: Temps dropped 5c on the core and 10-15c for the vrm's.
GPU 2: Temps increased by 5c, which I countered by upping the fan speed.
GPU 3: No change noticed.

Full rig shot:


I wish the E762 had more fan headers...


----------



## ebhsimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> My rig just keeps on getting more ghetto by the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Latest addition:
> 
> 
> GPU 1: Temps dropped 5c on the core and 10-15c for the vrm's.
> GPU 2: Temps increased by 5c, which I countered by upping the fan speed.
> GPU 3: No change noticed.
> 
> Full rig shot:
> 
> 
> I wish the E762 had more fan headers...


Wow that is ghetto af. If you have a bit of spare cash lying around I'd change out the intake fans for something a bit stronger. If you don't care about noise, you could give Jetflos a try - they're extremely powerful, but also extremely loud. I have the same fans stock in my Arc Midi R2, but have since been changed for cougar fans. Temps are a lot better although not really quieter.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebhsimon*
> 
> Wow that is ghetto af. If you have a bit of spare cash lying around I'd change out the intake fans for something a bit stronger. If you don't care about noise, you could give Jetflos a try - they're extremely powerful, but also extremely loud. I have the same fans stock in my Arc Midi R2, but have since been changed for cougar fans. Temps are a lot better although not really quieter.


Yeah, I really need to pick up some new fans. I'm looking at buying some Aerocool DS 140mm Red's, they seem to be really good from reviews.
Mostly I just need to get rid of the crappy fans on the H110 because they are by far the loudest fans in my rig.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> My rig just keeps on getting more ghetto by the day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Latest addition:
> 
> 
> GPU 1: Temps dropped 5c on the core and 10-15c for the vrm's.
> GPU 2: Temps increased by 5c, which I countered by upping the fan speed.
> GPU 3: No change noticed.
> 
> Full rig shot:
> 
> 
> I wish the E762 had more fan headers...


Not enough fans.......






Now that's more like it


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Not enough fans.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that's more like it


That hurts my eyes. I like it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Not enough fans.......
> Now that's more like it


am I to assume the clips on one of the pcie power cables doesn't stay?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> am I to assume the clips on one of the pcie power cables doesn't stay?


Yep hence the cable ties


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> Yep hence the cable ties


figured as much my new psu the clips for pcie are just pressure clips and they fit tight enough.in the connectors even without them I don't think they would move


----------



## generalkayoss

Still waiting on more heatsinks


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *generalkayoss*
> 
> Still waiting on more heatsinks


Does it help? Dont short circuit it?


----------



## Neilthran

Heatsinks on the mosfets help, but they also need some airflow.

Well i did the same, old pentium heatsink+hacksaw+arctic alumina adhesive =


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neilthran*
> 
> Heatsinks on the mosfets help, but they also need some airflow.
> 
> Well i did the same, old pentium heatsink+hacksaw+arctic alumina adhesive =
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, Did something similar to a 1155 asrock board I had a while ago. I had plenty of heatsinks left over from the twin turbo cooler I installed on an old 6850, so I used them on this cheapo board. Actually sold it on here











Can see all the pics in my original sales thread > http://www.overclock.net/t/1528045/fs-asrock-h67m-ge-lga1155-matx-motherboard/0_20


----------



## generalkayoss

I was short 2 heatsinks on the VRM so I had to order more. Ordered some cheap 11mm aluminum ones for the memory modules too while I was at it. I used arctic alumina thermal adhesive. Was really careful not to string any on the board or let too much squeeze out of the sides... I had one that did spill out some, but a cotton swab and alcohol got it off the board before it dried.

I've got almost $500 in this 970 at this point. Counting the custom bracket, backplate, pump and all these heatsinks. I should have just kept it on air TBH. lol


----------



## YZ125

Got a few old 1990's Gateway's and server tower , cut everything apart and started making this little jem ...cut up and built the motherboard tray / back panel , the rest is just kind of laid in place until I have another day off to make mounts for the 5.25" and 3.5" bays to mount where they are currently sitting now ...the plywood is temporary ...that's an old P4C800e just laid in there to get scale .


----------



## legoman786

I never really had any good submissions, but now I do!



http://imgur.com/zCoI9


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I never really had any good submissions, but now I do!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zCoI9


Haha, nice job. I didnt see what it was at first and then I did. Great mod


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Haha, nice job. I didnt see what it was at first and then I did. Great mod


Have no need for the HDMI port in a work environment. The previous guy left nothing in terms of an old parts bin. Had to make do with what I got.

And the pfSense screenshot is my personal router.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I never really had any good submissions, but now I do!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zCoI9


That's really clean and really useful. I'm impressed.







I just wish all of my GPUs didn't have those stupid double-stacked DVI ports.


----------



## SuperMassiveScu

Hi all

Been having a trash time at work recently and have managed to get some time off tomorrow for the solar eclipse so I can play around with my camera. I got in today, cracked open a beer (well cider actually) and sat back to relax when I realised my foo fighters wasn't playing! Watf? Best timing for everything to break (I just broke my camera tripod too







)

Apparently the wall wart powering my speakers had died after 2 years and I have no replacements nearby... To the ghettocopter!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Above is the main offender, I've already begun to disgrace him by cutting off his wires! Muhahahha!





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Prepping my disgraced subjects limbs for a molex transplant...





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Soldered and heatshrinked using my trusty dremel hot-thingy.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




with this extra power i have... MORE POWER





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Woohoo!



I've swapped around the positioning of the red (normally 5v wire?) to connect to the 12v line, the speakers should operate at 16v but have been happily chugging away at 9v for a few years so 12v is an improvement for them. Sounds pretty much the same as it did before and now they will turn off automatically when I shut down my pc, bonus!

I'll take some photographs of my mini ITX case with the wrong sized motherboard mounted in side it + my ghetto LED mod for the case you can see in the photo's above at some other point in time.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Welcome!

+ First post is a ghetto mod
+ Said mod is actually a pretty good idea
+ Avatar is a cute dog
- Using iTunes as a music player

Eh, 75% is a passing grade. Enjoy your stay!


----------



## SuperMassiveScu

Well, my house is already a tip, so I may as well show you my other minor ghettorigs..

*Server ghetto rig:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Such accuracy with my drilling, the other 2 holes are pre-made in the case for mounting your mobo with.. I think the case is an M ITX and the mobo is an M ATX or something along those lines, it's been a while.


Never mind I missed one! Also note super advanced furniture feet-pad protector things so this thing doesn't rattle my TV stand apart.


You can sort-of see the bolts I'm using to keep the motherboard high enough so it doesn't short out.



Fans are way too loud on this machine, it's a cheapo case with cheap fans and cheap.. well everything so I had to quieten these badboys..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Switched 12v cable to run off 5v, that molex cable is powering my PSU fan... nothing bad can happen here, right?! I made sure to write "DO NOTE USE" on the rest of the molex cable as the voltages are the wrong way around and would happily ruin my day!


Air intake fan was really loud too, cut that down a bit by swapping the cables over the same as above.



*Main rig ghetto LED's*

I like to poke things inside my PC while it's running, by the time I get home it's normally dark outside and the room with my PC in had a crappy energy saving bulb so it's the darkest cave of all time, obviously I invested in ghetto LEDs rather than a brighter light bulb.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




LED's are 12v so I've stuck them directly into a molex cable (I love molex). Bottom LED on the left side is dead







need to replace it but the effort is real..


This one's pretty blurry, as mentioned I've wrecked my tripod! My apologies. You can still see how bright those LED's are though.



That's me ghetto'd out for now, If I saw this post a few years ago you would have seen a coolermaster 212 Evo held on by some tape and a Gainward GTX 460 with a 120mm corsair fan held on by paperclips covered in electrical tape for elite cooling whilst playing ARMA 2, those were the days.


----------



## SuperMassiveScu

Itunes really sucks, I only use it because I use my Iphone when I'm out jogging and it's handy to be able to download music at my desktop without having to do stuff that requires effort to get my music to my phone.
I'm no apple fanboy if it counts, I frequently argue with our software developer who swears by macs and I've had this Phone 4s for years now.

Many thanks for the welcome, I've been reading this thread over the last few weeks over my lunch.

You wouldn't call that dog cute if you saw her in real life, she looks like she'll mug you in a dark alley.


----------



## mllrkllr88

Here are some of my ghetto tinkering madness pictures from several years ago.

DICE POT:
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4507.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4512.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4541.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4542.jpg.html

Here is V2 ghetto dice pot:http://www.overclock.net/t/1541578/the-25-copper-dice-pot/0_100

Tupperware Case:
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4520.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4519.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4518.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4529.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4530.jpg.html

LOL Cold:
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_4426.jpg.html


----------



## cravinmild

HA

Great ghetto modding lol. Looks like a nice cheapy setup for subzero cooling


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> HA
> 
> Great ghetto modding lol. Looks like a nice cheapy setup for subzero cooling


I like the manila folder for the win...I mean nothing says screw you to the filing cabinet like turning it's star player into a deflector for maximum cooling on a budget


----------



## RockeyDA

this is my compact part testing station "fort dell"


This is my desk, its a large old school ping pong table held up wiith 70's fisher speaker cabinets. the carpet came out of a dumpster.


This is my main rig, it dose not look ghetto at first, but whats that its sitting on? the box it came in with 6 cd-rom drives duct taped together for interior support.


In console gaming area, im using a turnt over broken washer as a tv stand(i keep extra accessories and cables in the part you stick your clothes in). and my game systems are either on a box that a lawn mower came in or on a stand i made from a broken bed frame.


and finaly, you cant have ghetto with out a little bump ba bump.


So do i win at ghetto?


----------



## W3453L

lol



My graphics card risers are held together with duct tape......DO YOU EVEN GHETTO!


----------



## SuperMassiveScu

Update on my previous previous post: speakers sounded fine doing anything non-game related but when I booted up ARMA 3 I got this horrible buzzing louder than the actual game, probably interference bla bla bla using same PSU for speakers as PC bla.

Anyway every other wall wart based PSU I tried had the same issue, until my old ghetto friend saved the day..:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




Ghetto PSU, awaaaaaaaay! Here's my super awesome EZ-COOL PSU, featuring a super snazzy red LED and an extra switch so if I set something on fire I can turn it off quickly! Obviously during the creation of this monstrosity I took every 'nessesary' safety precaution. I also made sure that I plugged in my speakers the correct way...



By leaving the molex connections on and just squishing them between the posts, rather than actually soldering the cables to a banana jack and plugging them in properly. I'll let you know if I accidentally put my foot over the connections, unless I'm dead of course.

Speaking of safety I actually wrote little labels on the PSU telling me not to touch the metal parts of each post, I have a really.. really bad habit of touching live electricals after I've told myself "Hey, Better not touch those 2 pieces of metal which will send 240V coursing through my haAAAAhhhAHHAHHHHhhhAAAHnd"

Its also really handy that I can remember what the voltages are from each post because my no-expense-spared labels are starting to fail...


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

*I needed to remove the shroud/bracket on one side because it didnt allow my side panel to close, so i took it off and cut off the fan/rad mounting bits*

*Took a soda can, and bent it into shape*

*Stuck the little bracket bits that I cut off in.*

*Looks aight*

*Fits aight...*

*Success?*


----------



## tomytom99

Well here's what happens to be the past of my current rig. It's really interesting.


It's the result of my handy-work, my Dremel, some Goo-Gone, plexiglass from Lowes, Ducttape, a few dozen layers of paint, and a Gateway Essential 500 case.



I still have all of that hardware, it's really just all my sister's computer now. Aside from the watercooler.
Gotta' love the bezel wire work.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Well here's what happens to be the past of my current rig. It's really interesting.
> 
> It's the result of my handy-work, my Dremel, some Goo-Gone, plexiglass from Lowes, Ducttape, a few dozen layers of paint, and a Gateway Essential 500 case.
> 
> I still have all of that hardware, it's really just all my sister's computer now. Aside from the watercooler.
> Gotta' love the bezel wire work.


Umm, I cant see the ghetto, what am i missing here


----------



## GhettoFied

Error: 404. Ghetto not found!


----------



## PR-Imagery

My desk is too small for three monitors. So slapped a piece of 3/4"ply on top that overhangs on one side for the third monitor and the primary acts as a counter weight.

I forgot one day and lifted the primary...


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> Umm, I cant see the ghetto, what am i missing here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Error: 404. Ghetto not found!


- Wires everywhere
- Wires spliced together
- Sloppy cuts for the side fan and window.\
- Rear fan held in by paper clips or wire ties
- AIO cooler may be mounted in a spot not meant for a fan

And I think that's a dial up modem in the PCI slot.

All you are missing is a giant capacitor mod on that sound card.


----------



## Robitdolan

Video card was 1cm too long for the case. There was plenty of room between the front of the case and the PSU so I moved the PSU forward. It's held by duct tape.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> - Wires everywhere
> - Wires spliced together
> - Sloppy cuts for the side fan and window.\
> - Rear fan held in by paper clips or wire ties
> - AIO cooler may be mounted in a spot not meant for a fan
> 
> And I think that's a dial up modem in the PCI slot.
> 
> All you are missing is a giant capacitor mod on that sound card.


Finally, somebody saw how it is Ghetto. I actually regret putting that cooler as a front intake, I got ages of dust stuck in it. I cut a 120mm hole just to mount that.
Actually, that's a LAN card. The stuff on my motherboard went bad for a while (drivers didn't fix it for like a month, then it worked again).
Then the 60mm fan was there since the hole is for a 80mm fan, and I only had 92mm ones, (or smaller). You need to see my server's clutter. XD


----------



## blooder11181

compaq presario 6000
before


after


drill, metal saw and metal file and almost 2 hours.


----------



## GhettoFied

Just for the extra cooling?


----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Just for the extra cooling?


no.
i did this so i can use normal atx psu and no propriatry ones and most off them dont have like this deer 450watts psu small exhaust grill for the screws


----------



## xxpenguinxx

My GTX 580 that I baked has been running hotter than normal. I think I just need to shave a millimeter off the heatsink standoffs to give it more pressure, but I noticed the voltage wasn't as stable as it should be. Decided to add some caps to stabilize the voltage. Before the mod I couldn't set the voltage lower than 1.050v without it crashing the driver, now it happily runs at 1.000v. The large caps on the back are 1200uf 16v, the small are 320uf 16v, and the two next to the heatsink are 820uf 6.3v.

I guess you could call this a volt mod prep. If I ever water cool it this mod will definitely help with OCing.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> My GTX 580 that I baked has been running hotter than normal. I think I just need to shave a millimeter off the heatsink standoffs to give it more pressure, but I noticed the voltage wasn't as stable as it should be. Decided to add some caps to stabilize the voltage. Before the mod I couldn't set the voltage lower than 1.050v without it crashing the driver, now it happily runs at 1.000v. The large caps on the back are 1200uf 16v, the small are 320uf 16v, and the two next to the heatsink are 820uf 6.3v.
> 
> I guess you could call this a volt mod prep. If I ever water cool it this mod will definitely help with OCing.


That is pretty crazy stuff.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> My GTX 580 that I baked has been running hotter than normal. I think I just need to shave a millimeter off the heatsink standoffs to give it more pressure, but I noticed the voltage wasn't as stable as it should be. Decided to add some caps to stabilize the voltage. Before the mod I couldn't set the voltage lower than 1.050v without it crashing the driver, now it happily runs at 1.000v. The large caps on the back are 1200uf 16v, the small are 320uf 16v, and the two next to the heatsink are 820uf 6.3v.
> 
> I guess you could call this a volt mod prep. If I ever water cool it this mod will definitely help with OCing.


Wow that is some real modding right there. Very cool.


----------



## vicyo

After cleaning my stuff today, i found my old G35 that i stopped using because of a broken headband and terrible audio distortions. So why not making a DAC instead of throwing it away?

Sunday project works perfect and is just missing some proper P2 jacks for the mic and headphone


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> After cleaning my stuff today, i found my old G35 that i stopped using because of a broken headband and terrible audio distortions. So why not making a DAC instead of throwing it away?
> 
> Sunday project works perfect and is just missing some proper J2 connector for the mic and headphone


that's pretty cool and nice looking


----------



## 222Panther222

Fan failure, on my watch? K.



50c idle to 29
70ish load to 50.


----------



## Master__Shake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I never really had any good submissions, but now I do!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zCoI9


some one has a norco 2u case










nice job


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> Fan failure, on my watch? K.
> 
> 
> 
> 50c idle to 29
> 70ish load to 50.


that's actually pretty impressive upgrade.lol


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's actually pretty impressive upgrade.lol


Glad it works.








Does the fan stretch the rubber bands and 'hover" away from GPU PCB when it revs up?









First time I did this ghetto was out of necessity. Every sense then it's for better cooling and less noise.


----------



## 222Panther222

It doesn't move as far as i know, i was quite surprised at the temps difference too.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> It doesn't move as far as i know, i was quite surprised at the temps difference too.


Was joking about stretching the rubber bands.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Was joking about stretching the rubber bands.


its ok right now my res and hard drive are held with zip ties and my socket cooling fan is being held on by one piece of double sided tape and a plastic bread tie







That will all change one I get pump back and start making brackets for pump/res and hard drive but it works for now...oh and I forgot I have the 200 mm fan from the front of the phanteks case on top of it because I broke the leads off of my front top blaster 140 and have been too lazy to fix it...so I have no panels on the pc right now...more like an open test bench lol


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I'm not sure if this counts as ghetto, I had modded my Creative X-Fi a while back. I'm going to do a similar mod to my Asus Xonar DG and my old head unit from my car. The sound in my car is just not warm, the bass is muddy, but at the same time almost non existent, and it sounds electronic. Since this mod fixed the same sound issues I had with the X-fi, I figured why they heck not try it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> its ok right now my res and hard drive are held with zip ties and my socket cooling fan is being held on by one piece of double sided tape and a plastic bread tie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That will all change one I get pump back and start making brackets for pump/res and hard drive but it works for now...oh and I forgot I have the 200 mm fan from the front of the phanteks case on top of it because I broke the leads off of my front top blaster 140 and have been too lazy to fix it...so I have no panels on the pc right now...more like an open test bench lol


Aahh! A true ghetto builder. Do you have a junk-yard dog too.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Aahh! A true ghetto builder. Do you have a junk-yard dog too.


yeah two actually...but they would likely lick the assailant into submission lol...but yeah I'm not opposed to making things work and I'm a cheap bastage so often times it stays that way but I'm coming around to the idea of doing things properly...it's just my wallet doesn't like it...im actually gonna take apart an old projection tv I have and see if I can use parts of it for mounts etc...let's put it this way im 30 and I still have most of the clothes I wore to 8th grade...so 16 years ago....thankfully I wasn't a fad follower so most of them are bland singular colors...


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Just finished up the Asus card. The film caps on the back definitely bring out the details in the higher frequencies.

I tried it with and without, and something was just missing in the higher notes without them on the back.


----------



## Ziglez

I thought to myself, what's better than one fan blowing on my raid card, Two fans blowing on my raid card. I love zip ties.


----------



## MKUL7R4

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> this is my compact part testing station "fort dell"
> 
> 
> This is my desk, its a large old school ping pong table held up wiith 70's fisher speaker cabinets. the carpet came out of a dumpster.
> 
> 
> This is my main rig, it dose not look ghetto at first, but whats that its sitting on? the box it came in with 6 cd-rom drives duct taped together for interior support.
> 
> 
> In console gaming area, im using a turnt over broken washer as a tv stand(i keep extra accessories and cables in the part you stick your clothes in). and my game systems are either on a box that a lawn mower came in or on a stand i made from a broken bed frame.
> 
> 
> and finaly, you cant have ghetto with out a little bump ba bump.
> 
> 
> So do i win at ghetto?






Dude this is some mad scientist stuff, I love it.


----------



## generalkayoss

A little bit ghetto....


Spoiler: Ghetto superstar


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I'm not sure if this counts as ghetto, I had modded my Creative X-Fi a while back. I'm going to do a similar mod to my Asus Xonar DG and my old head unit from my car. The sound in my car is just not warm, the bass is muddy, but at the same time almost non existent, and it sounds electronic. Since this mod fixed the same sound issues I had with the X-fi, I figured why they heck not try it.


That's an X-Fi Xtrememusic right? Do you have a guide or something to that? Maybe i can get a little more life out of my card before i switch up to an external DAC.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker*
> 
> That's an X-Fi Xtrememusic right? Do you have a guide or something to that? Maybe i can get a little more life out of my card before i switch up to an external DAC.


Yup that is XtremeMusic. You can follow guide here or here. It is worth it if you confident with soldering.


----------



## RockeyDA

THANKS! this is what happens when you want to biuld a empire but never have the money to buy any thing. 80% of my setup is fixed up garbage finds.


----------



## mllrkllr88

I took my old HTPC case and turned it inside out to make a test bench...its super ghetto but I like it







And of course I am running my super ghetto $25 dice pot.

As the dice flies
On a cold and gray Portland mornin'
A poor little 775 chip is diced
In the ghetto

http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_20150404_111519000.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_20150404_110024429.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_20150404_133019280.jpg.html
http://s914.photobucket.com/user/mllrkllr88/media/IMG_20150404_111541846.jpg.html


----------



## Duality92

does this count as ghetto?

Dual E5345 running dual DeepCool Gammaxx 200 with dual Corsair SP140 blue LED!









zip tie mount, zip tie fan mount.


----------



## cravinmild

zipties are the pinnacle of ghetto but I do have to subtract a half point for the lack of duct tape. You sir have ghetto-ed


----------



## PorkchopExpress




----------



## djthrottleboi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PorkchopExpress*


if thats a closet you will have wicked bass issues. gonna need lotta tweeters.


----------



## RockeyDA

i know this is supposed to be computers, but how about computer entertainment system? i got pissed that my ps3 kept overheating so i turned it into this, i call it CODE NAME: FROSTBYTE.
  
  


artic sliver thermal adhesive, copper cooler from mini dell 755, and cut up fan from some other dell. no more BEEEP: system has become hot and neets to shut down... BEEP BA BEEP*off*


----------



## RockeyDA

#PorkchopExpress ... do you have a enclosure on the other side? even if it was ported that closet should be 2many cubes for that sub.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> does this count as ghetto?
> 
> Dual E5345 running dual DeepCool Gammaxx 200 with dual Corsair SP140 blue LED!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zip tie mount, zip tie fan mount.
> ~Snip~


Is that an Intel S5000PSL board?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know this is supposed to be computers, but how about computer entertainment system? i got pissed that my ps3 kept overheating so i turned it into this, i call it CODE NAME: FROSTBYTE.
> 
> artic sliver thermal adhesive, copper cooler from mini dell 755, and cut up fan from some other dell. no more BEEEP: system has become hot and neets to shut down... BEEP BA BEEP*off*


That is by far one of the top Ghetto things I've seen in this entire thread. I'm not sure if that beats the cardboard box that was used as a case in the first few pages though.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know this is supposed to be computers, but how about computer entertainment system? i got pissed that my ps3 kept overheating so i turned it into this, i call it CODE NAME: FROSTBYTE.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> artic sliver thermal adhesive, copper cooler from mini dell 755, and cut up fan from some other dell. no more BEEEP: system has become hot and neets to shut down... BEEP BA BEEP*off*


Love it. Absolutely brilliant.


----------



## Simmons572

My aunt's old computer died, and I built her a new one. She insisted I take the card reader from the old case, and find some way to mount it to the new case. The problem, is that the card reader was built to fit some proprietary HP mount, so there were no real attachment points for it.

The solution: Double Stick Tape, SSD 2.5"-3.5" bracket, and a dremel.










The results: A very solid mount that could be taken out of this case and used in the next computer when this one dies.

I was in a rush to get this shipped out, so my dremel holes were a bit messy. Also the card reader was a bit crooked. If I had 2 more hours, I could have made this look a lot better, but alas.


----------



## PorkchopExpress

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> #PorkchopExpress ... do you have a enclosure on the other side? even if it was ported that closet should be 2many cubes for that sub.


the other side is an empty bedroom. its being run infinite baffle. its temporary till i get off my lazy butt and build more boxes, 6 sealed and 2 horns for the ultras(the big guy) the folded horns are 300 lbs each of baltic birch in a complex build so ive been putting it off. little guys get 1000watts big guys get 4000


----------



## ReaperN1

I recently dismantled a large outdoor BBQ (for salvageable modding materials.) I now have a bunch of usable stainless steel. The ghetto creation came along because I needed a new standup workspace. I don't have much money so I got creative with the BBQ, a broken shelving unit, brackets off of outdoor solar lights and a handful of other junk. It came out pretty sweet and I'm still working on it to make it even better. The best part is that it's on locking rollers and it didn't take long to make. Ghetto upgrades coming soon.

*BBQ & Junk Workspace:*


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PorkchopExpress*
> 
> the other side is an empty bedroom. its being run infinite baffle. its temporary till i get off my lazy butt and build more boxes, 6 sealed and 2 horns for the ultras(the big guy) the folded horns are 300 lbs each of baltic birch in a complex build so ive been putting it off. little guys get 1000watts big guys get 4000


"When you have too much, time, too much stuff and too much empty space, happens stuff like this"


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReaperN1*
> 
> I recently dismantled a large outdoor BBQ (for salvageable modding materials.) I now have a bunch of usable stainless steel. The ghetto creation came along because I needed a new standup workspace. I don't have much money so I got creative with the BBQ, a broken shelving unit, brackets off of outdoor solar lights and a handful of other junk. It came out pretty sweet and I'm still working on it to make it even better. The best part is that it's on locking rollers and it didn't take long to make. Ghetto upgrades coming soon.
> 
> *BBQ & Junk Workspace:*


That actually looks nice








At least when I look at the junk I leave on my desk in my corner.

All of those rugs are because I have a resident who I rent the basement out to. The bass from the ButtKicker just resonates through there when I'm just on bare hardwood. The cables are also a mess. XD


----------



## OxygeenHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know this is supposed to be computers, but how about computer entertainment system? i got pissed that my ps3 kept overheating so i turned it into this, i call it CODE NAME: FROSTBYTE.
> artic sliver thermal adhesive, copper cooler from mini dell 755, and cut up fan from some other dell. no more BEEEP: system has become hot and neets to shut down... BEEP BA BEEP*off*


I really got curious about this ghetto PS3. Mine got a GLOD. When it will be fixed (send it to a local store). I might be going for something like this.

How did you plugged your fans ? There is no 3 Pin connectors on my PS3. Exept for the stock fan.


----------



## Gutterz

Old pic, my ghetto stand alone water cooling made out of a wine bottle holder lol


----------



## Gutterz

My bench station ghetto mod out of a server case


----------



## nismoskyline

Do you still use the server? Cool idea btw I think I'm gonna do the same with my old server, I could use a test bench


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Okay, don't laugh too hard... this was the only computer I had for several years and it would constantly overheat, so...


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Not quite as portable as a MacBook Air, but it doesn't look too hard to lug around.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiberiusisgame*
> 
> Okay, don't laugh too hard... this was the only computer I had for several years and it would constantly overheat, so...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Not quite as portable as a MacBook Air, but it doesn't look too hard to lug around.


Well, it does have handles on top.


----------



## GhettoFied

The ghetto rig got an upgrade! 290x lighting and an XFX PRO 750W Black Edition PSU, along with a MSI MPower z87, i5 4690k at 4.6ghz, and a cryorig R1 ultimate. Pics!


----------



## azanimefan

the split wood on that cracks me up. i gotta give you thumbs up. obviously those shop classes in high school went to good use.


----------



## GhettoFied

Haha yeah I was so pissed when that piece of wood cracked but I didn't care enough to cut another one. Made it in engineering last year from scrap wood so you're exactly right about making it in school. I need to stain the gpu support piece soon, had to make a new one when I replaced the 270x because the spacing was off. Actually made that peice of wood out of a 2x4 because I didn't feel like going to the store to get 1x2.


----------



## Tiberiusisgame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Well, it does have handles on top.


Exactly. See? Very practical rig. The talk of the LAN party... If you can hear above the 90dB fan.


----------



## mllrkllr88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gutterz*
> 
> My bench station ghetto mod out of a server case


YEP...I LOVE THIS ONE!!!


----------



## Gereti

Someone did, so i did it too
Pepsi max 12-pack+black spraypaint


----------



## azanimefan

covering the wires on the bottom? classic


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azanimefan*
> 
> covering the wires on the bottom? classic


Yeah, littlebit better than older one


----------



## Gutterz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nismoskyline*
> 
> Do you still use the server? Cool idea btw I think I'm gonna do the same with my old server, I could use a test bench


It was just an empty case I picked up from microcenter when it was on sale. I havnt used it in a while its been stored in the attic.Just recently pulled it out an I can feel the benching addiction taking ahold of me again. Its going to have to wait till after summer going to be building a garage soon so no time.


----------



## mr soft

Got ghettoing this morning.

AMD 8350 stock cooler

Those lugs, stop a snug fit for a fan replacement.



only thing to do was to break out the hacksaw, cutting fins is always a pain in the butt, and finger tips.



sits a lot better and it´s quiet.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr soft*
> 
> Got ghettoing this morning.
> 
> AMD 8350 stock cooler
> 
> Those lugs, stop a snug fit for a fan replacement.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only thing to do was to break out the hacksaw, cutting fins is always a pain in the butt, and finger tips.
> 
> 
> 
> sits a lot better and it´s quiet.


Aww, I love those heatsinks!
Also, how did you mount the fan?


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr soft*
> 
> Got ghettoing this morning.
> 
> AMD 8350 stock cooler
> 
> Those lugs, stop a snug fit for a fan replacement.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only thing to do was to break out the hacksaw, cutting fins is always a pain in the butt, and finger tips.
> 
> 
> 
> sits a lot better and it´s quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aww, I love those heatsinks!
> Also, how did you mount the fan?
Click to expand...

Looks like zip-ties around the heatpipes


----------



## mr soft

Yes , zip ties are a lifesaver , I even used them to hold the front grill on my Audi in place lol,


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OxygeenHD*
> 
> I really got curious about this ghetto PS3. Mine got a GLOD. When it will be fixed (send it to a local store). I might be going for something like this.
> 
> How did you plugged your fans ? There is no 3 Pin connectors on my PS3. Exept for the stock fan.


Simple, the cpu/gpu cooling fan is wired up the the original system's fan cable. it has 3 pins, brown=+ black=- and White=PMW(so use a 4 pin pc fan) and the psu coolers were cheep computer case fans from the early 90's. i solderd them directly to the 12 out inside the powersupply right by thoes big holes were 2 prongs connect the system to the power supply(if you look at bord positive and negative are labled). if you dont have soldering skills then i recommend either running to cpu fan line or external ac adapter. if you got any more questions let me know.


----------



## hartofwave

Sound proofing a door? Works well atm, the real test will be going to sleep tonight though!


----------



## Steele84

That moment when you realize that you don't have the AMD mount for your Corsair H60 !!!!


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Anyone else here have a surround setup with an aux display, but that aux display is just a space hog?

Continue reading...


Spoiler: Warning: Lots-O-Pics



First I look at the screen itself, typical budget monitor stand


Oh look, a screw, what can i do with this. certainly something...

gotta be able to do something with that bottom screw...
So I took a closer look at my fleebay special triple lcd mount.


Oh look... A cap... Hmmmmm, what can I do with this?

hey, let's find a washer to put the screw through the cap... Found a washer!!!

But oh... cap came apart.

Electrical tape to the rescue!


So now to put the smaller washer on the bigger one to make sure the screw doesn't fall through.


Mounting time!!










Oh yeah, looking good. Now the moment of truth. will the stand hold it?



Hell yeah!!!

Final look at the finished product!



Who needs those fancy multi hundred dollar stands?


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Anyone else here have a surround setup with an aux display, but that aux display is just a space hog?
> 
> Continue reading...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Lots-O-Pics
> 
> 
> 
> First I look at the screen itself, typical budget monitor stand
> 
> 
> Oh look, a screw, what can i do with this. certainly something...
> 
> gotta be able to do something with that bottom screw...
> So I took a closer look at my fleebay special triple lcd mount.
> 
> 
> Oh look... A cap... Hmmmmm, what can I do with this?
> 
> hey, let's find a washer to put the screw through the cap... Found a washer!!!
> 
> But oh... cap came apart.
> 
> Electrical tape to the rescue!
> 
> 
> So now to put the smaller washer on the bigger one to make sure the screw doesn't fall through.
> 
> 
> Mounting time!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, looking good. Now the moment of truth. will the stand hold it?
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah!!!
> 
> Final look at the finished product!
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs those fancy multi hundred dollar stands?


brilliant


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Anyone else here have a surround setup with an aux display, but that aux display is just a space hog?
> 
> Continue reading...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Lots-O-Pics
> 
> 
> 
> First I look at the screen itself, typical budget monitor stand
> 
> 
> Oh look, a screw, what can i do with this. certainly something...
> 
> gotta be able to do something with that bottom screw...
> So I took a closer look at my fleebay special triple lcd mount.
> 
> 
> Oh look... A cap... Hmmmmm, what can I do with this?
> 
> hey, let's find a washer to put the screw through the cap... Found a washer!!!
> 
> But oh... cap came apart.
> 
> Electrical tape to the rescue!
> 
> 
> So now to put the smaller washer on the bigger one to make sure the screw doesn't fall through.
> 
> 
> Mounting time!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, looking good. Now the moment of truth. will the stand hold it?
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah!!!
> 
> Final look at the finished product!
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs those fancy multi hundred dollar stands?


Now if only I can do that for three Dell monitors, and get a VESA mount instead of the thing for the Acer screens.


----------



## tomytom99

Here's some more ghetto work.

A 6950 that I Ghettoed to fit in a single PCI height. I also used the cooler from an XFX 6570 on there, and put a blower fan from a Dell on it. Good times.

As you can see, I had to remove the DVI port to make it fit.

Also, to avoid shorts that may or not have caused issues, I had to trim the connector's wiring.


The ASUS P5WDH Deluxe I'm troubleshooting, I'm waiting on ASUS for a new BIOS chip.

Ah, yes, my server. It's operational, but I'm currently servicing it to try to improve what it uses.

Gotta love the sketchy-ass wood word. Don't worry, I've put fire-******ant spray inside where the motherboard is.

Also, I've got the space for two PSU's, I won't need to get one large one, I can use the two 450w ones I have.

This network switch, it's a monster. It used to have three 40mm Delta fans working, I pulled them all, put a Noctua 40mm fan in there,

And put a 92mm fan on the top. Dead silent now, and it stays cool. Don't worry, I just use it for stuff that doesn't use 1000 Mb/s. My 8 port switch that has Gigabit is full.


*So much ghetto*


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Yet somehow more reliable than Steam's servers...


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Yet somehow more reliable than Steam's servers...



Somehow I think that even though there is so much ghetto, I keep it not only more stable, but more aesthetically pleasing too. (Yes this is my corner, and somehow it does look great with so much ghetto)


----------



## mr squishy

Hey guys, I'm currently trying to mount a Cooler Master Hyper 101 in my buddy's rig. The only problem is that I don't have any Intel mounts for the cooler... any suggestions?


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm currently trying to mount a Cooler Master Hyper 101 in my buddy's rig. The only problem is that I don't have any Intel mounts for the cooler... any suggestions?


Zipties. Rope (string really). Screws, nuts and bolts.

Just feed the ties through holes in the corners of the material on the top, and cross them over to make an 'X' Shape on the top and behind the board.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Zipties. Rope (string really). Screws, nuts and bolts.
> 
> Just feed the ties through holes in the corners of the material on the top, and cross them over to make an 'X' Shape on the top and behind the board.


Hmmm.... Never thought of that...
Good suggestion! I need more ideas though! Anybody else?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Now if only I can do that for three Dell monitors, and get a VESA mount instead of the thing for the Acer screens.


the bottom 3 are vesa mounted, 4th one pictured was not but just had to get it out of the way


----------



## Nukemaster

ASUS P5WDH with what looks like an AMD heatsink just sitting on the cpu.
Funny.

I still have one of those boards and is mostly works(the PC speaker port is dead). I removed the south bridge heatsink and the thermal paste(if I could call it that) was not even making contact.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Anyone else here have a surround setup with an aux display, but that aux display is just a space hog?
> 
> Continue reading...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Lots-O-Pics
> 
> 
> 
> First I look at the screen itself, typical budget monitor stand
> 
> 
> Oh look, a screw, what can i do with this. certainly something...
> 
> gotta be able to do something with that bottom screw...
> So I took a closer look at my fleebay special triple lcd mount.
> 
> 
> Oh look... A cap... Hmmmmm, what can I do with this?
> 
> hey, let's find a washer to put the screw through the cap... Found a washer!!
> 
> But oh... cap came apart.
> 
> Electrical tape to the rescue!
> 
> 
> So now to put the smaller washer on the bigger one to make sure the screw doesn't fall through.
> 
> 
> Mounting time!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, looking good. Now the moment of truth. will the stand hold it?
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah!!!
> 
> Final look at the finished product!
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs those fancy multi hundred dollar stands?


i never owned a lcd, but i thought lcd's came with stands like how crt's do.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i never owned a lcd, but i thought lcd's came with stands like how crt's do.


they do...but he has a stand to hold all 3 (4 now) so they stay in viewable position and are more seamless...also on a side note please for the love of god clean those poor monitors







lol


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> they do...but he has a stand to hold all 3 (4 now) so they stay in viewable position and are more seamless...


did they ever fix these few problems that bugged me when lcd's came out? 1 only can vew from small angle of angles, 2 input lag, 3 motion blur, 4 low refresh rates, 5 fragile as all hell, 6 low resolution, 7 really inaccurate color output.

because having a cld on top of one of my crt's would be nice, but those issues bugged me especially the fragile one, from time to time i get pissed and punch my monitor off my desk, so having a made in japan crt is nice for quality and taking a beating.... but weighs 75lbs for a 21" screen and warps the wood of every desk its ever been on. and i guss i liked, i had 1 lcd in 2006, and it was a huge down grade from my crt, only was 720p while my crt was 1536p. but it was nice it weighed like n4lbs


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

IPS displays can be viewed from like 180 degrees IIRC. Input lag is lower, though it isn't zero.
I think motion blur is an inherent problem with that type of display, but I'm sure it's been reduced over time.
Refresh rates now go up to 144Hz, which ought to reduce any motion blur and input lag as well.
Fragility, I'm not sure about, but they're pretty sturdy now in my experience.
Resolution is high, yes; 1080p has about as many pixels as 1600x1200 and is the smallest monitor you'll see an enthusiast use
And finally, IPS displays man. Beautiful colors.


----------



## Nukemaster

Viewing angles are fine with IPS and pretty good with VA. TN still sucks in that department. Check out IPS glow to make sure it will not bother you if you are going IPS(some users can not stand it, while others are fine).

I do not think screens like being knocked on the ground, Get a punching bag instead(way more fun too).

Motion blur compared to CRT has allot to do with the fact that CRT screens hold pixels on screen for the full frame while CRT flashes the pixels and the fade off combined with our eyes gives the impression of smoothness. Blur reduction by BenQ, Turbo 240 by Eizo, Light boost and ultra low motion blur by Nvidia among other stobed(pulsed with each frame draw) backlight setups can greatly reduce motion blur, but still have some artifacts because not all pixels refresh at the same time.

With a CRT each line scanned in one at a time with LCD the lines are refreshed, but they do not refresh instantly(this is already on top of the pixel change time). So when the backlight flashes some pixels may be "frozen" mid transition. The leads to a double image artifact under some circumstances.

At 60hz frames stay on the screen for a bit over 16ms while it would have been displayed at a much brighter intensity for a much shorter time on a CRT. 120hz screen reduce that sample and hold time to just over 8ms. This is still far slower than even a 60hz CRT, but noticeably less blurry.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> they do...but he has a stand to hold all 3 (4 now) so they stay in viewable position and are more seamless...also on a side note please for the love of god clean those poor monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


yeah i need to clean them badly. as well as the ones i just picked up used. one of many many things on my to do list. I just spend the better party of 5 days arranging over 2TB of data across 4 hard drives. yeah.. not fun but it feels good to have it all done and to have deleted over 500GB of either unneeded or otherwise duplicated data. Then configured backups


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> 
> IPS displays can be viewed from like 180 degrees IIRC. Input lag is lower, though it isn't zero.
> I think motion blur is an inherent problem with that type of display, but I'm sure it's been reduced over time.
> Refresh rates now go up to 144Hz, which ought to reduce any motion blur and input lag as well.
> Fragility, I'm not sure about, but they're pretty sturdy now in my experience.
> Resolution is high, yes; 1080p has about as many pixels as 1600x1200 and is the smallest monitor you'll see an enthusiast use
> And finally, IPS displays man. Beautiful colors.


basicly becase of crt's i have been babied as far as high rez goes, im used to 2048x1536. that makes 1920x1080 feel cramped. and i forgot got my biggest bug with lcds and plasmas, only 1 resolution, any other looks like **** because of set number of pixels on screen needs a video scaler. some games especially older ones only support some resolutions, so thats were its starts to get painful. i know if i had bucks to blow i would get a sony fw900, i have been drooling over them for years but never had the 1000$ it takes to get one used.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Viewing angles are fine with IPS and pretty good with VA. TN still sucks in that department. Check out IPS glow to make sure it will not bother you if you are going IPS(some users can not stand it, while others are fine).
> 
> I do not think screens like being knocked on the ground, Get a punching bag instead(way more fun too).
> 
> Motion blur compared to CRT has allot to do with the fact that CRT screens hold pixels on screen for the full frame while CRT flashes the pixels and the fade off combined with our eyes gives the impression of smoothness. Blur reduction by BenQ, Turbo 240 by Eizo, Light boost and ultra low motion blur by Nvidia among other stobed(pulsed with each frame draw) backlight setups can greatly reduce motion blur, but still have some artifacts because not all pixels refresh at the same time.
> 
> With a CRT each line scanned in one at a time with LCD the lines are refreshed, but they do not refresh instantly(this is already on top of the pixel change time). So when the backlight flashes some pixels may be "frozen" mid transition. The leads to a double image artifact under some circumstances.
> 
> At 60hz frames stay on the screen for a bit over 16ms while it would have been displayed at a much brighter intensity for a much shorter time on a CRT. 120hz screen reduce that sample and hold time to just over 8ms. This is still far slower than even a 60hz CRT, but noticeably less blurry.


just saying, if you got a blurry crt either you need to adjust your fly-back or you tube is shot... or its a ****ty tube. if you got something like a sony trinitron it should look sharp and crisp on every resolution you send it. (i have been poking arround with crt's for a while, so i have seen the good and the bad inside and out.)


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> 
> IPS displays can be viewed from like 180 degrees IIRC. Input lag is lower, though it isn't zero.
> I think motion blur is an inherent problem with that type of display, but I'm sure it's been reduced over time.
> Refresh rates now go up to 144Hz, which ought to reduce any motion blur and input lag as well.
> Fragility, I'm not sure about, but they're pretty sturdy now in my experience.
> Resolution is high, yes; 1080p has about as many pixels as 1600x1200 and is the smallest monitor you'll see an enthusiast use
> And finally, IPS displays man. Beautiful colors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> basicly becase of crt's i have been babied as far as high rez goes, im used to 2048x1536. that makes 1920x1080 feel cramped. and i forgot got my biggest bug with lcds and plasmas, only 1 resolution, any other looks like **** because of set number of pixels on screen needs a video scaler. some games especially older ones only support some resolutions, so thats were its starts to get painful. i know if i had bucks to blow i would get a sony fw900, i have been drooling over them for years but never had the 1000$ it takes to get one used.
Click to expand...

For hi-res fast response CRT rock and out perform ANY lcd system

If serious about hi-res, no-(mouse)lag gaming.. stick with CRT
The only benefit lcd has over CRT is the lack of weight and bulk and more weight









CRTs *can* be found at bargains sometimes...but the rare FW900 doesn't come cheap and if it does, shipping will kill you and the delivery guy


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> just saying, if you got a blurry crt either you need to adjust your fly-back or you tube is shot... or its a ****ty tube. if you got something like a sony trinitron it should look sharp and crisp on every resolution you send it. (i have been poking arround with crt's for a while, so i have seen the good and the bad inside and out.)


Was talking about LCD motion blur compared to CRT. Saying that 120hz LCD is better then 60, but still worse than CRT for motion blur







.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Was talking about LCD motion blur compared to CRT. Saying that 120hz LCD is better then 60, but still worse than CRT for motion blur
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


oh ok, my bad. also i will admit at high resolutions if my refresh rate is 60, my picture looks horrible, seems less sharp and shakie. so lesson of day is, if above 1024x760 never blow 75hz. btw i think its mainly a vga bandwith limit but in 1024x760 i can do 200somthing hz but in 2048x1536 im fairly sure 85hz is my cap, i wish it wasn't because crt's defiantly look even better with higher refrshrates.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> For hi-res fast response CRT rock and out perform ANY lcd system
> 
> If serious about hi-res, no-(mouse)lag gaming.. stick with CRT
> The only benefit lcd has over CRT is the lack of weight and bulk and more weight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CRTs *can* be found at bargains sometimes...but the rare FW900 doesn't come cheap and if it does, shipping will kill you and the delivery guy


UPDATE... so a few weeks back i repaird a 50" plasma tv that was being thrown out, had to repalce 1 transistor on one of the video prossesing boards, only coast me 3$ after shipping. and since this i have also repaird a playstation SCPH 1001, and i had been using the plasma to test it. and i got to see and get kinda used to the worst composite signal of my life(dont get me wrong it looks good in 1080p other than lack of resolution). well i recently picked up a copy of sonic 2 for Genesis (yeah i know i cant believe i did not have that one either...) and last night i went to go test it out, in my console gaming area i play on a 36" sony trinitron. 
also i got the a modle 1 Genasis with a 32x so got model 1 sound with model 2 picture clarity. and i poped in my cart, flipped that switch, and about ***** my self with how good that composite video looked. i had a sharp, colorfull, clear picture, and using composite. that right there is enough to make me sad crt's arrent made anymore. i can keep repairing boards, but one day my tubes will be shot and i wont be able to find replacements.


----------



## Nukemaster

CRT also has smoother pixel edges so old games look better. Composite should be just fine at the low resolutions older consoles used.

This makes it funny that developers(the ones the want to make more money off of the retro fad) seem to make things extra pixelated without that edge softening.

I still think sample and hold is the worst part of LCD. without it motion blur would not be an issue.


----------



## Sempre

I couldn't mount the radiator to the front because the short pipes so I improvised with zip ties:



Close up:


----------



## Nukemaster

Good use of zip ties.

You may be able to get a deep fan shroud or gut some dead fans to make up the distance as well.


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Good use of zip ties.
> 
> You may be able to get a deep fan shroud or gut some dead fans to make up the distance as well.


Thanks. Yeah I've been trying to find different ways to mount it. I searched for a fan shroud based on your suggestion and found something interesting:


This may actually be a good idea so thanks. But then it wont be a ghetto mod


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> I couldn't mount the radiator to the front because the short pipes so I improvised with zip ties:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Just a thought.
Rotate the radiator 180 so pipes are at bottom and zip-tie it to bottom of 5.25 cage. Make a shroud from file folder stock around fan to case intake.
Post number 17 in "Ways to Better Cooling" thread is a short tutorial of how I make air ducts.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22319102


----------



## GhettoFied

Made an old dell ultrasharp monitor stand work with my brother's Qnix korean panel. Not all that ghetto but hopefully you guys like it.


----------



## Onyxian

Just a few zipties holding the video cards up to prevent sag.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few zipties holding the video cards up to prevent sag.


That is a BEEFY rig.
Also just noticed you live in Hawaii with two Hawaii cards. Nice.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That is a BEEFY rig.
> Also just noticed you live in Hawaii with two Hawaii cards. Nice.


Hawaiiception


----------



## catacavaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Made an old dell ultrasharp monitor stand work with my brother's Qnix korean panel. Not all that ghetto but hopefully you guys like it.


Ghetto went pro


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catacavaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Made an old dell ultrasharp monitor stand work with my brother's Qnix korean panel. Not all that ghetto but hopefully you guys like it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto went pro
Click to expand...

True that! Nonetheless, Ghettofied deserves points for ingenuity!


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That is a BEEFY rig.
> Also just noticed you live in Hawaii with two Hawaii cards. Nice.


Yep, and they're nice and toasty just like it is here.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meticadpa*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is a raised hole in some cardboard for an optical drive mount, and yes, that is a removable motherboard tray.
> 
> (Sorry for the last pic... I was spasming while talking it. >.<)


I love this!! LOL


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catacavaco*
> 
> Ghetto went pro


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> True that! Nonetheless, Ghettofied deserves points for ingenuity!


I'm honestly surprised how well it turned out. I'm going to get another one of these dell stands off ebay, they're like 20$, when I get one of the Korean monitors.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meticadpa*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is a raised hole in some cardboard for an optical drive mount, and yes, that is a removable motherboard tray.
> 
> (Sorry for the last pic... I was spasming while talking it. >.<)


missing one thing, duct tape warped around corners of box for stability and swag.


----------



## RockeyDA

im straying even more than befor, instead of computer its game system, and instead of ghetto its more like talented *******.


----------



## RnRollie

awesome...







would be even better if using raw wood... planks with the tree bark still on


----------



## Nukemaster

Well that is something different.

The fan and heatsink must allow for some decent clocks


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Well that is something different.
> 
> The fan and heatsink must allow for some decent clocks


im not oven overclocking it, i just did not have the original heat sink and did not want any more problems from it. was mainly to keep regulator cool.


----------



## Nukemaster

I did not even know the Snes had a heatsink for anything.

I learned something new today.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> im straying even more than befor, instead of computer its game system, and instead of ghetto its more like talented *******.


Can I buy this? Jk but that is beautiful.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Can I buy this? Jk but that is beautiful.


if some one were to give me the supernintindo and pay about 200$ for finished product then yes. steep price because it is hard to make and takes alot of time and dedication.


----------



## Nukemaster

It is definitely something different and seeing all the work you put into it even more so.

How long did it take to make?

I also noticed the power switch on the back(edit, re-watched the video and noticed the new power jack.). Did any model ever come with such a switch(never seen that before either.).


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> if some one were to give me the supernintindo and pay about 200$ for finished product then yes. steep price because it is hard to make and takes alot of time and dedication.


not that I would do it but I think of you post in the right places someone would pay you to make one. Or at least you could make one and sell it.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> im straying even more than befor, instead of computer its game system, and instead of ghetto its more like talented *******.


That is pretty ingenious! Nice job!


----------



## nepas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> That is a BEEFY rig.
> Also just noticed you live in Hawaii with two Hawaii cards. Nice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Yep, and they're nice and toasty just like it is here.







Had to be done


----------



## RockeyDA

yah aint gonna get shocked from 12v, the average Pearson it takes around 40 to pass threw the skin. and if high voltage low amperage you just gonna get bruned more than shocked. (i have been burned countless times from lcd back light transformers.)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I did not even know the Snes had a heatsink for anything.
> 
> I learned something new today.


yep, and it dose not tuch cpu, its just for keeping that voltage regulator cool, the NES did it buy soldering the voltage regulator to the RF modulator box. i never modded my nes, just repaired it.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> not that I would do it but I think of you post in the right places someone would pay you to make one. Or at least you could make one and sell it.


well i think if i can get a hold of another super Nintendo and some more wood i will make another one and just hang on it untill some one wants to buy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> It is definitely something different and seeing all the work you put into it even more so.
> 
> How long did it take to make?
> 
> I also noticed the power switch on the back(edit, re-watched the video and noticed the new power jack.). Did any model ever come with such a switch(never seen that before either.).


like i said in the video it took a week of puting in work from noon to 5am with my only break waiting for glue to dry. probbly added up to about 5 hours of not work in a 15 hr day. and i know this dose not belong here but here is my other modded console(did not make video on this one yet(ipad broke and dont wanna spend money on that pice of crap))  
i used a rbg led for this as a indicator light, red means stock clock (7mhz) and US region, blue means 10mhz clock and US region, yellow means 7mhz and JP region, and cyan means 10mhz JP region and i know this dose not belong here at all becase the only part ghetto about this was the fact the led was way to big so i grinded the top down flat and filled the led hole with hot glue then glued the led to the other glue.

oh and on the back there is 1 momentary switch and 2 double pull double throw switch, the momentary switch shorts out a pin on the cpu freezing it so i can 1, pause a unpase-able game 2, change clocks without resetting system. the other switch is the region switcher witch also either leaves a circuit path open or closed. and i used double pull double throw so one side of switch changes function, other side changes led color.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yep, and it dose not tuch cpu, its just for keeping that voltage regulator cool, the NES did it buy soldering the voltage regulator to the RF modulator box. i never modded my nes, just repaired it.


In case this information is useful in the future, may I ask what voltage this snes operates on after the regulator?

I had muted Youtube before so it stayed that way. Did not even hear your video.

Thanks for the information and the extra mod looks cool. I was never a Sega kid, but cool mod none the less.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> In case this information is useful in the future, may I ask what voltage this snes operates on after the regulator?
> 
> I had muted Youtube before so it stayed that way. Did not even hear your video.
> 
> Thanks for the information and the extra mod looks cool. I was never a Sega kid, but cool mod none the less.


im pretty shure the snes has a 7806 in it witch is a 6v reulator but im not 100% on that, i can guarantee you the nes has a 5v


----------



## Nukemaster

Thanks. I guess if it is labeled that clearly it would not be hard to see the regulator specs with all the 78xx and 79xx showing voltage like that.

If i ever come across a second Snes, I wonder how a switching regulator would work for it(less losses and wide input range). Not going to mess with the single one I have.

Kind of surprised the NES uses a 9 volt AC power supply for 5v DC.

Again, thanks for all the information and an awesome mod to look at.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Thanks. I guess if it is labeled that clearly it would not be hard to see the regulator specs with all the 78xx and 79xx showing voltage like that.
> 
> If i ever come across a second Snes, I wonder how a switching regulator would work for it(less losses and wide input range). Not going to mess with the single one I have.
> 
> Kind of surprised the NES uses a 9 volt AC power supply for 5v DC.
> 
> Again, thanks for all the information and an awesome mod to look at.


the way they used to talk I used to think they were going to release improvements on the system and wanted to have that extra juice on tap with a minor change...but the only real improvements we got were "superscope" and better optimization/higher memory in the cartridges...but it's something at least


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the way they used to talk I used to think they were going to release improvements on the system and wanted to have that extra juice on tap with a minor change...but the only real improvements we got were "superscope" and better optimization/higher memory in the cartridges...but it's something at least


There were a lot of special chip carts to be fair. Just look at star fox! And DKC looks pretty amazing.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> There were a lot of special chip carts to be fair. Just look at star fox! And DKC looks pretty amazing.


For a short time Nintendo was supposed to release a CD drive with Sony. That did not happen.

All those on cartridge chips did some very cool things still. DKC is still a great game to this day.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

No, it did happen. Some of the circumstances changed, but it happened.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> No, it did happen. Some of the circumstances changed, but it happened.


and thua the PlayStation was born and im posting something again, so i dumpster drive on and off and found something in the uhall dumpster.


it had minor problems from how it was treated, it was slammed in the dumpster with a broken sheet of glass on top of it case open. the cpu cooler mounter was destroyed, could not find gpu and its pci-e slot was spread apart from abuse(was able to smash it to a normal shape and working order)
the ghetto part was for cpu mount i drove 2 screws on each side on the non destroyed parts of the mount and cut up a steel bracket for a a empty card slot in a older case, after shortening it i made 2 slits so the screws could slid in. it put some "great stuff" on the heat sink and screwed it on and let it dry in a upright position. after playing around with it for a few days i gave it to my dad. oh and i had to pop a few dents out of the case(horrible horrible case, looks fancy but maid of aluminum instead of steel).

inside there was:
Asus P5Q-E motherboard
intell core 2 quad clocked at 2.4 ghz and overcloked to 3.2ghz easly with that zalmin cooler.
650w psu with fancy led's
4x2gb Gskill 1066 DDR2
dvd works but wont always eject. probably gear off by 1 tooth.
hdd and gpu no were to be found. befor i gave it to my dad i poped in a 80gb Western Digital 10,000 RPM drive and moved the gt630 i put in his dell a while back.
BTW, i have cut up 3 dells (upside down ones like gx620) to fit double slotted gpu's. next time i go to one of my friends house i will take some pics of the most extreme one.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> it had minor problems from how it was treated, it was slammed in the dumpster with a broken sheet of glass on top of it case open. the cpu cooler mounter was destroyed, could not find gpu and its pci-e slot was spread apart from abuse(was able to smash it to a normal shape and working order)
> the ghetto part was for cpu mount i drove 2 screws on each side on the non destroyed parts of the mount and cut up a steel bracket for a a empty card slot in a older case, after shortening it i made 2 slits so the screws could slid in. it put some "great stuff" on the heat sink and screwed it on and let it dry in a upright position. after playing around with it for a few days i gave it to my dad. oh and i had to pop a few dents out of the case(horrible horrible case, looks fancy but maid of aluminum instead of steel).


The ghetto part is clearly "(was able to smash it to a normal shape and working order)". Probably first time someone uses a hammer to fix the PCIe slot. You're making history.


----------



## richie_2010

It isnt much ghetto but i used tape. here is a mod ive done to my 750d


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> It isnt much ghetto but i used tape. here is a mod ive done to my 750d


definitely qualifies if only because it was done in the front side


----------



## richie_2010

thanks

I need to get a new one cut but will be mounting it with double sided tape from behind.
for using just a ruler n pencil i got i pretty close


----------



## RockeyDA

n
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> The ghetto part is clearly "(was able to smash it to a normal shape and working order)". Probably first time someone uses a hammer to fix the PCIe slot. You're making history.


nah, i used a hamer on the case, the pci-e slot i used vice grips.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> n
> nah, i used a hamer on the case, the pci-e slot i used vice grips.


you are a true madman


----------



## vicyo

Who cares if the gpu VRM is in a bad location?


The guetto motherboard and cereal box shroud will manage something


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Who cares if the gpu VRM is in a bad location?
> 
> 
> The guetto motherboard and cereal box shroud will manage something


Mother of god. pics of it inside the case?


----------



## tomytom99

Just gotta love how he uses those cereal boxes as shrouds. That's full ghetto. I'd use some cereal boxes as shrouds, but when I try to make my case look clean, I'd rather make one out of acrylic sheets XD


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Mother of god. pics of it inside the case?


No cable management as expected










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Just gotta love how he uses those cereal boxes as shrouds. That's full ghetto. I'd use some cereal boxes as shrouds, but when I try to make my case look clean, I'd rather make one out of acrylic sheets XD


I want to make these shrouds in plexi but I'll have to spend money on it, so it's a no-go for now


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Who cares if the gpu VRM is in a bad location?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The guetto motherboard and cereal box shroud will manage something


Love it!








Ducting is cool.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Just gotta love how he uses those cereal boxes as shrouds. That's full ghetto. I'd use some cereal boxes as shrouds, but when I try to make my case look clean, I'd rather make one out of acrylic sheets XD


Me too ..
But I graduated to using file folders instead. With a rattle-can in your color of choice the duct becomes stronger and prettier.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22919853


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ducting is cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too ..
> But I graduated to using file folders instead. With a rattle-can in your color of choice the duct becomes stronger and prettier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22919853


Just the fact that there's a guide on this.
Just: Wow
I must enhance my ghetto abilities.


----------



## Nukemaster

While I have used cardboard air guides. I never had anything THAT nice.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> No cable management as expected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make these shrouds in plexi but I'll have to spend money on it, so it's a no-go for now


im glad you have no cable management, i hate those fussy "EWW your cables make me sick you gonna **** up for airflow and start a fire" guys. i sesrusyl had some one try and tell me my cable management was gonna mess up my air flow from this pic.

on a worse case senario i could imiagen a porly ventalated case goign up by 7F but in most cases you aint gonna get more than 2F diffrence. AND I HAVE NO CASE, i face palmed when some one told me im hurting my airflow with cables.
also more of a de-rial
here is modernday

all the gpus went by-by becase sli only hurt my performance no matter how i did it. so i am disgusted with nvidea for advertising a double performance boost per additional gpu when one card works better than 3


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Love it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ducting is cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me too ..
> But I graduated to using file folders instead. With a rattle-can in your color of choice the duct becomes stronger and prettier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22919853


thats a nice looking cooler, do to my mobo layout i could not have something that big i can barly fit my ram in with my cooler master hyper 212 evo. ram slots 6 and 12 are right up against my cpu fan.


----------



## tomytom99

"Those cables are going to mess up your airflow"
I can sympathise with you about most of that.









I just like the cable management so that it looks showier. But no point in doing it if you're using a test bench, or if you're like me, replacing cables all of the time as I get new HW.

Along with looks, I only fuss about it when it's in a case and right in front / behind of a fan, I always get concerned about clipping the fan. As long as it isn't like the box of wires that we all have somewhere in our houses, it's okay.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> "Those cables are going to mess up your airflow"
> I can sympathise with you about most of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just like the cable management so that it looks showier. But no point in doing it if you're using a test bench, or if you're like me, replacing cables all of the time as I get new HW.
> 
> Along with looks, I only fuss about it when it's in a case and right in front / behind of a fan, I always get concerned about clipping the fan. As long as it isn't like the box of wires that we all have somewhere in our houses, it's okay.


wait? ,y setup is called a test bench? i thought it was called cheep and ghetto.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> wait? ,y setup is called a test bench? i thought it was called cheep and ghetto.


Well that too...

It's a ghetto test bench in reality.


----------



## DiaSin

So... I did this a few minutes ago since it was 85f (30c) in my room. Actually does have a noticeable difference over the fan alone.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> So... I did this a few minutes ago since it was 85f (30c) in my room. Actually does have a noticeable difference over the fan alone.


Even better is if you have a copper pipe that you bend to make a spiral that loops then goes back into a drink cooler, with a pump and a whole lot of ice and water.


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Even better is if you have a copper pipe that you bend to make a spiral that loops then goes back into a drink cooler, with a pump and a whole lot of ice and water.


At that point you literally have icewater-based air conditioner unit.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> At that point you literally have icewater-based air conditioner unit.


Yup. Works well until the cooler isn't cold anymore.

(I saw your avatar, and with that post it was great)


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> So... I did this a few minutes ago since it was 85f (30c) in my room. Actually does have a noticeable difference over the fan alone.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Even better is if you have a copper pipe that you bend to make a spiral that loops then goes back into a drink cooler, with a pump and a whole lot of ice and water.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> At that point you literally have icewater-based air conditioner unit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Yup. Works well until the cooler isn't cold anymore.
> 
> (I saw your avatar, and with that post it was great)


----------



## mathelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mathelm*


Oh, sure. Quote me so everyone knows my screw up.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Oh, sure. Quote me so everyone knows my screw up.


*The first sentence is a fragment, consider revising.
XD

On topic:
With the heat and humidity here in NJ, I'll have to come up with something to fix that. As far as I know, electronics don't like the humidity (or heat, but I know that). There was a school I was working at where there were Dell Precision desktops that would have RAM issues whenever it was really humid and they were off overnight.
Maybe I could see about using coke cans and a mini fridge, and make water condense on the sides of the cans, but that would probably do little to nothing.
I need ideas here, since I'm not digging the conditions, along with my dog (the darn thing is like Doge, but with a coat of fur that's like a collie).
Also, I need to rig a room air filter so that I don't have what happened last summer. What happened was that there was a small fruit fly issue in my house, and by the end of the summer, when I went to clean my fan filters, there were clusters of dead fruit flies in hexagonal groups where the holes in the front grill were. At least they were dead, and not in the computer.


----------



## hartofwave

So have an upcoming mod you might be interested in, I have an old H80 and I'm looking for an asetek unit on ebay to mod onto my GPU to make a loop that goes res > CPU > Rad1 > GPU > Rad2 >Res or something like that. My case doesn’t had the mounts for 2 rads but ill make it work, failing that i can switch it. This will be first time custom water cooling, so any tips would be much appreciated!


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> So have an upcoming mod you might be interested in, I have an old H80 and I'm looking for an asetek unit on ebay to mod onto my GPU to make a loop that goes res > CPU > Rad1 > GPU > Rad2 >Res or something like that. My case doesn't had the mounts for 2 rads but ill make it work, failing that i can switch it. This will be first time custom water cooling, so any tips would be much appreciated!


Best tip is to take your time, do not rush anything.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> So have an upcoming mod you might be interested in, I have an old H80 and I'm looking for an asetek unit on ebay to mod onto my GPU to make a loop that goes res > CPU > Rad1 > GPU > Rad2 >Res or something like that. My case doesn't had the mounts for 2 rads but ill make it work, failing that i can switch it. This will be first time custom water cooling, so any tips would be much appreciated!


Also, I know that the old Antec Kuhler series (620 & 920) were made in cooperation with Asetek. Antec just made the cover for the block, and the did the aesthetics and marketing. The fans for the 920 are even the same as the ones on the R9 295x2 cooler.


----------



## RockeyDA

So today my ghetto-nis-nes is more how im working on things over the work im doing.
and hay if you dont got some tools it helps and dont wana spend anything my way works.

So this is my soldering/glueing/general electrical working desk.
im using a dell 755 mini pc as a metal frame to magnet my 3$ flashlight to, and using a lense i cant rember were it came from to get a closer look at boards. if you want a free lense with some power look for a older vhs cam with a viewfinder. they got decent lenses in them and a half inch crt tube than runs on a composite ntsc video signal. also i think this big lens actually came from the camera in the last vhs came i gutted. the cardboard and papertowl is my make shift cleaning sponge for soldering iron. and that yoohoo can is something i rense out and i use it for dropping globs of solder and other small scraps in like a little trash can.


Here is were i need that lens and light. my dull shock 3 was a newer cheeper one with mini usb port surface mount solderd. controller fell off my desk and ripped mini usb port off of board contacts and all. so im looking at the board and finding alternative places to solder new leads to.


Got my new leads on now and i figured since its open im gonna replace the leds, USA CONTROLLER FTW


so my cable is not removable anymore, but i don't have to spend 50$ on a new controller.


BTW got really pissed at one of my friends in between opening and closing the controller, i kinda punched my main desk enough to destroy a few hard drives, shut off the computers on it, crack the fram on one of my monitors, move the desk buy about 2" break my Ethernet switch, unplug my router, and phase my ds3 screws out of existence, i found 2 of them and tightly wraped elatric tape around the handles.


i really like posting here and watching what you guys post, im working on a ghetto overclocking project on the side should be done in a few days.


----------



## Powerg4

That dell looks like a good start for a project, you should mod it too!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> That dell looks like a good start for a project, you should mod it too!


only 2 ram slots 4gb ram cap, no overclocking, Intel integrated graphics (8mb) no expansion slots. only thing i like aobut it only needs somthing like 120w on 12v no other inputs needed. so could make nice car computer if started driving.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> only 2 ram slots 4gb ram cap, no overclocking, Intel integrated graphics (8mb) no expansion slots. only thing i like aobut it only needs somthing like 120w on 12v no other inputs needed. so could make nice car computer if started driving.


In home streaming?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> In home streaming?


steaming of what? only thing i would ever want to stream is audio from downstairs 2 upstairs to i can use both my big sound systems to shake house apart. but have not found easy way to do that with no feedback or latency problems. and in home gaming, theres no point, if im sitting next to the sr-2 i might as well game on it. its already pushing over 1000wrms on the audio end, best monitors ran up to it, and its were i keep my steering wheel and fight stick.
if you meant use for mini dell in other way of streaming i cant think of it. and unless thay make a usb to pci-e16 that lil pc aint even gonna do well on you tube.


----------



## Powerg4

Just chuck another main board in, that's what I'm doing with my 1999 dell xps at the moment!








It used to have a pentium 3 in it and 256mb ram so I'm just swapping everything out for fun.
It's alot of work though!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Just chuck another main board in, that's what I'm doing with my 1999 dell xps at the moment!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It used to have a pentium 3 in it and 256mb ram so I'm just swapping everything out for fun.
> It's alot of work though!


klipsch sr-2?


----------



## Powerg4

What do you mean?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> What do you mean?


im confused with the both of ya.


----------



## Powerg4

Yeah I don't know...


----------



## tomytom99

Time to rig that 6950 that's already rigged...
I'll be mounting two 92mm fans on it, Ghetto ACX cooler on an old XFX AMD card with no cooler casing! XD


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Time to rig that 6950 that's already rigged...
> I'll be mounting two 92mm fans on it, Ghetto ACX cooler on an old XFX AMD card with no cooler casing! XD


I had an XFX 6950 DD 2GB, so I want to see pictures of this. Mine was stable at 940 MHz core, but I forget how much for memory. I want to see how much you can do with this setup!


----------



## ThijsH

My wifi has been really bad lately so I decided to increase its reception the ghetto way.
I took a cheap receiver, duct tape and a beer can. I then proceeded to cut the can into a (half) cylindrical shape and plunked the receiver into it, then taped it to the underside of the table.
Here are some pics:



before and after speeds:



I'm surprised at how well this worked.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThijsH*
> 
> My wifi has been really bad lately so I decided to increase its reception the ghetto way.
> I took a cheap receiver, duct tape and a beer can. I then proceeded to cut the can into a (half) cylindrical shape and plunked the receiver into it, then taped it to the underside of the table.
> Here are some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> before and after speeds:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm surprised at how well this worked.


Love it!


----------



## Torvi

so my pedals were way too far off, this is how i locked them


----------



## sindeky

Ok, so some of you might remember my PVC computer case.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Well, due to changing circumstances i have had to relocate my computer and as such my PVC would no longer do as it was simply too bulky. So i had to come up with a new solution, A case no more than 172 mm tall. And as such came my new case.






My Power Button.


A corner


It was a close fit at 167mm tall.


----------



## RockeyDA

SO, something i bin waiting on for a long time has happened, my first and final cpu upgrade. I went from 2 L5506's to 2 X5690's. but i had a little problem. i remember almost breaking my MB under its own weight last time i flipped it over. so i needed a effective low effort no money solution to my problem.

THIS is my solution 2 chairs, pulled there seats off, took 2 scrap pices of wood, cut a hole in a plastic sheet i had laying around. INSTANT WORK BENCH.


Heres a little underside vew, easiest cpu change ever.(excluding thos dell plastic snap mount things used in 2003-2006)


While i had everything apart i also cleaned and washed many parts of the setup fairly thoroughly... forgot to do my gpu though. but yeah, got my desk lookin sexxie!


And now my task manager looks like this bout made me yell in excitement when i seen it.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> so my pedals were way too far off, this is how i locked them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done quite a similar thing in the past. and when i would take my wheel to school for gaming club i would duct tape the pedals to the floor.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Heres a little underside vew, easiest cpu change ever.(excluding thos dell plastic snap mount things used in 2003-2006)


Mounting a CPU cooler with zip ties would be easier and better than these infernal plastic snap mounts.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Mounting a CPU cooler with zip ties would be easier and better than these infernal plastic snap mounts.


what do you mean? thoes mounts are so easy to use i wish they were common whats so hard aobut this


takes me less than 2 seconds to add or remove a heat sink on this system


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> what do you mean? thoes mounts are so easy to use i wish they were common whats so hard aobut this
> 
> takes me less than 2 seconds to add or remove a heat sink on this system


I thought you were referring to this:


----------



## 0493mike

Mwaha ha ha pass the wrench Igor.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> I thought you were referring to this:


Curse the man that invented that. I hope he steps on MULTIPLE LEGOS.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Curse the man that invented that. I hope he steps on MULTIPLE LEGOS.


it seems I'm the only one who has mastered these?


----------



## RockeyDA

i never saw mounts like that on a cpu befor.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> it seems I'm the only one who has mastered these?


No, I actually like them too for systems that I use the stock cooler with. Quick and easy to work with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i never saw mounts like that on a cpu befor.


They're stock on Intel coolers and a few others.


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Mine is not as ghetto as any on here, but here it is. A fan to cool my top GPU better, just wedged into the power cables to hold it in place. Works really good though!


----------



## snipekill2445

Need to get that custom waterloop


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Need to get that custom waterloop


Need a lot of things lol.


----------



## catacavaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is not as ghetto as any on here, but here it is. A fan to cool my top GPU better, just wedged into the power cables to hold it in place. Works really good though!


ghetto went Heisenberg


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catacavaco*
> 
> ghetto went Heisenberg


White fan actually. Looks blue in the picture though.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> White fan actually. Looks blue in the picture though.


I think many white LED's are blue with a coating to make it white. The camera may see the blue more than our eyes.

A quick edit can make it more white


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I think many white LED's are blue with a coating to make it white. The camera may see the blue more than our eyes.
> 
> A quick edit can make it more white


Nice! That is pretty much what it looks like. lol

Not much for photo editing myself.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Oven overclocking?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> it seems I'm the only one who has mastered these?


I actually prefer them over the weird mounting brackets most after market CPU coolers use. It's easy on, easy off. I wish they would make the clips a little stronger though.


----------



## snipekill2445

I've never had trouble with the intel mounting clips either, the mounting bracket on the Hyper 212 Evo is terrible, like most cooler master coolers, the my EK CPU block is wonderful though


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> No, I actually like them too for systems that I use the stock cooler with. Quick and easy to work with.
> They're stock on Intel coolers and a few others.


i have never seen a cooler like that before. but it dose not help i have never had a new cpu and probably never will... cpus come with heat sinks? i thought either the motherboard came with one or you bought one.


----------



## snipekill2445

Yes almost all processors come with a (pathetic) little heatsink, apart from a select few high end chips. Of course they are cheap and perform poorly so anyone serious about their computer will replace them,


----------



## RockeyDA

have some light filler ghetto before the big ghetto comes.

and that fan was 100% necessary to not play games at 120C. now i can play them at 80C, case open 70C (xfx made a horrible cooler, no copper and the fans don't always work. if this hard did not throttle i would of put the heat sink from my 7900gt because it would of probably let overclock well.)

and because this computer is not intended for any expansions or anything of the sorts powering the fan was a minor issue.


TIME FOR BACKGROUND STORY!
This was one of many computers i got out of the trash. i threw i Pentium D 950 (3.4) in it to replace the 2.8 Pentium D it had once i found a use for this pc. when i first got it i used to run risky experiments on it because i thought a pc this small was useless(btw got a unstable overclock of +100mhz on cpu at one point







). but i was taking a plane trip to visit my famly in cincinati, all my laptops were over 10 years old and i wanted to be able to game over the summer. on a plain your limited to 50lbs of luggage... my gaming rig was 45lbs. i sat this computer on the scale and saw it was 14lbs and it could fit in the laptop slot of my backpack. i bought a one sale gpu for 60$ witch bumped it up to 15.5lbs. but i now could max put Garry's mod and play crysis 2 on medium i was satisfied. and when ever i go to a lan party or some ones house, i shove this pc in my back pack, a small sub woofer in another. and a 13" sony triniton that dose 1280x1024.(surprisingly light weight for a crt, and surprising good color and resolution output for age and size)


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Oven overclocking?
> I actually prefer them over the weird mounting brackets most after market CPU coolers use. It's easy on, easy off. I wish they would make the clips a little stronger though.


After a couple times removing one, the screwdriver slot gets destroyed (and it's a flat slot as well, not Phillips or square). You end up having to use needle-nose pliers to remove it. But that's not important when the pin breaks and gets stuck inside the bottom part so you end up having to clip the bottom off if you were to ever remove this.

A sturdy back plate and metal Phillips screws all the way for me.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Yes almost all processors come with a (pathetic) little heatsink, apart from a select few high end chips. Of course they are cheap and perform poorly so anyone serious about their computer will replace them,


it looks like the cheep heatsinks on a gt 640 (best pic i could find on google)


----------



## RockeyDA

i know its off topic but today is a sad day. my fattest chicken just died of what i amuse was a heart atack. i was told this breed only lived 6 months but i tought the fact my chickens could come and goes as they pleased would of gave me a year or two. this was Cartmen aka juk juk aka yellow fatty as of 2 days ago.

it really upsets me when one of my chickens die, and its is the first one that was not killed by a predictor. i guss its not as bad is finding one of your chickens dead covered in blood. i just did not expect him to die so soon.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> After a couple times removing one, the screwdriver slot gets destroyed (and it's a flat slot as well, not Phillips or square). You end up having to use needle-nose pliers to remove it. But that's not important when the pin breaks and gets stuck inside the bottom part so you end up having to clip the bottom off if you were to ever remove this.
> 
> A sturdy back plate and metal Phillips screws all the way for me.


There's a screwdriver slot? I always use my fingers. You learn something new everyday.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know its off topic but today is a sad day. my fattest chicken just died of what i amuse was a heart atack. i was told this breed only lived 6 months but i tought the fact my chickens could come and goes as they pleased would of gave me a year or two. this was Cartmen aka juk juk aka yellow fatty as of 2 days ago.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it really upsets me when one of my chickens die, and its is the first one that was not killed by a predictor. i guss its not as bad is finding one of your chickens dead covered in blood. i just did not expect him to die so soon.


We should do a ghetto build in honor of him.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> After a couple times removing one, the screwdriver slot gets destroyed (and it's a flat slot as well, not Phillips or square). You end up having to use needle-nose pliers to remove it. But that's not important when the pin breaks and gets stuck inside the bottom part so you end up having to clip the bottom off if you were to ever remove this.
> 
> A sturdy back plate and metal Phillips screws all the way for me.


Use the right size screwdriver, problem solved. Never had one get messed up on me yet.


----------



## snipekill2445

We had a bunch of chickens once but our dogs ate them all.

(srsly, those dogs would hunt them down everynight until they were gone)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> We had a bunch of chickens once but our dogs ate them all.
> 
> (srsly, those dogs would hunt them down everynight until they were gone)


i got 1 dog but shes vary well trained and she knows what animals are ok to kill and what animals she needs to protect. but i have lost 2 chickens to cyoties, 1 by opossum, and 1 by flowing me across street when she saw me take dog for a walk. she made it across fine the one way but when i got back and she saw me she paniced and ran in front of a car. and to acupy my time after work i have been cooking up a mod to post here. im a driver download away from crunch time.


----------



## 0493mike

Sorry about the chicken. I had bought a rooster off an old man one day at work. He told me its a good fryer. Him be just right fo da pan all young and juicy. But I took him home for our hens to keep them laying. Little sucker would kick me when my back was turned and filling the feed bucket. Then he would run behind all the hens so I couldnt kick him back. Old bruster the rooster I called him. But he kept on them hens. So he did his job.

But he got ate by a coyote one day. Fare well Bruster
The hens will miss you.


----------



## RockeyDA

so first up i got this lil pice of crap ati card that is much crapper than my agp ati card. and i got a heatsink from a strangely shaped white dell. i cut it up and pulled off all its fins. the hoses you see at acted to it was from a break line i found laying on the side of the road about 6 years ago. this shows how rubber bands are a critical component for overclocking.


SEE!


Different angle


ACTIVATE ATI REBELLION MODE! EAT GREEN!


AND THIS is the meat of the operation.... i keep containers of water frozen in the freezer because i used to cool my ps3 off with them. so i had to drill hole in the ice and put some water for the radiator to suck up. once i turned that fan on the ice started melting really fast. got rid of it in 5 min.


i wish this card had thermal monitoring and overvolting because i could of done more and showed you more.
this was the highest stable clocks i could get and i know it was just thirsty for power because stopping the water flow only had a 3 mhz clock difference.


here are the big clock changes with a smaller than expected performance boost. (if anybody knows what how to overvolt this card i don't care if it dies and i got another 1 or two laying around.[ATI x300se])
 

yeah woooo yes i might be able to play garrys mod on low settings! if my gtx 480 did not mean so much to me i would do something like this to it but it dose so this is my second best overclocking pci-e card.


----------



## RockeyDA

so one of my oldest
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> Sorry about the chicken. I had bought a rooster off an old man one day at work. He told me its a good fryer. Him be just right fo da pan all young and juicy. But I took him home for our hens to keep them laying. Little sucker would kick me when my back was turned and filling the feed bucket. Then he would run behind all the hens so I couldnt kick him back. Old bruster the rooster I called him. But he kept on them hens. So he did his job.
> 
> But he got ate by a coyote one day. Fare well Bruster
> The hens will miss you.


so one of my oldest chickens little red birdy (3 years old) layed an egg and ate it immediately, so now i know why all the eggs keep getting broken. also as far as old birds go, got 2 older chickens at the top of the pecking order and a pissed off mallard duck that im surprised never flew away. (a year ago i got 3 of them and they flew away soon as thay could... but i did not like them they where super panicy around me and mean to my older duck. btw got 2 Pekin ducks and there fairly nice.)


----------



## 0493mike

That is a right smart job you did on the card. Nicely done. I know its hard to mess with your better cards. You really don't want to jack them up.









But you only live once, sometimes I got to bite the bullet and hope for the best. And if it goes good , man what a feeling. On top of the world.















But all the way there its nail biting and nerve racking.









Check out the fan I got at the thrift store. got two of them for 3 dollars us.
So far I put one on a 120 radiator and it feels like alot more air flow coming through than a regular one.
At 12v its crazy loud but you can feel the fan 8 feet away. But I've got it at 5v and its not to bad for noise and still feels like more air flow than the original one That was there.
I don't care much for animals that are all freaked out by me just standing there. Like them when they have a personality.









And you never know what you might need when you start making stuff. I find things all the time and pick them up thinking oh I could use this on something







.




Sorry about the crappy photo's.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> That is a right smart job you did on the card. Nicely done. I know its hard to mess with your better cards. You really don't want to jack them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you only live once, sometimes I got to bite the bullet and hope for the best. And if it goes good , man what a feeling. On top of the world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all the way there its nail biting and nerve racking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you never know what you might need when you start making stuff. I find things all the time and pick them up thinking oh I could use this on something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Heh, it was a miracle that I had an old motherboard laying around once. I took a couple capacitors off, and put them in to replace broken ones on a screen a friend gave me. *The freeness of Ghetto*

I figure I'll be doing the mod to control regular 3pin fans with PWM, I just rebuilt my server computer after putting handles on the top, and the fans are quite loud. I mean they're fans from before PWM, but when there was speed control on 3 pin fans. They're loud, they're fast, but they don't have to be that way all the time.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0493mike*
> 
> That is a right smart job you did on the card. Nicely done. I know its hard to mess with your better cards. You really don't want to jack them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you only live once, sometimes I got to bite the bullet and hope for the best. And if it goes good , man what a feeling. On top of the world.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But all the way there its nail biting and nerve racking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the fan I got at the thrift store. got two of them for 3 dollars us.
> So far I put one on a 120 radiator and it feels like alot more air flow coming through than a regular one.
> At 12v its crazy loud but you can feel the fan 8 feet away. But I've got it at 5v and its not to bad for noise and still feels like more air flow than the original one That was there.
> I don't care much for animals that are all freaked out by me just standing there. Like them when they have a personality.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you never know what you might need when you start making stuff. I find things all the time and pick them up thinking oh I could use this on something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Sorry about the crappy photo's.


for the bite the bullet thing. my 480 means to much to me to put it at risk, that card was my jump into the modern gaming ara. i got it for my 18th birthday and i went from a damaged 7900 gt (video memory problem) to this gtx480... plus it overclocks fairly well on the stock cooler. with the 480 nvidia worried about fan noise so they made it run hot and quiet with a big heat sink and a powerful fan. (btw that fan is just shy of hitting 5000rpm)

---EDIT **** EDDIT!----
I BROUGHT MY NEWER DEAD GTX 480 BACK TO LIFE









So i did a lil this but rotated 90deg (480 only fit in toaster oven by under half an inch) cooked it up at 7min 30 sec at 380F
let 'er cool for about 30 min with oven door open. fired 'er up it worked agin (heat gun did this 3 times) but this time display driver did not re destroy card!


SOOO now its time for carzy ghetto cooling (btw this 480 always ran 10-20c hotter under load than my older one. and my fans max out after 60c)

So sadly if i took my clock over 800mhz my psu would fail(650w dell xps psu) but my god, this 480 runs hot even on ilde. if i stoped the flow of water the pipes instantly got hot. with the temps im getting i was worried i had poor connection but i dont. sad thing is this is maxed out no overclock and im pumping ice water. thes temps are ridiculous. this was after about 10 min of heating up and bench marking.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> I BROUGHT MY NEWER DEAD GTX 480 BACK TO LIFE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i did a lil this but rotated 90deg (480 only fit in toaster oven by under half an inch) cooked it up at 7min 30 sec at 380F
> let 'er cool for about 30 min with oven door open. fired 'er up it worked agin (heat gun did this 3 times) but this time display driver did not re destroy card!


I'll save this post to show people instead of explaining every time how to fix PCBs by oven baking.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Are you sure it's making good contact? Some cards need a shim between the block and core.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> I'll save this post to show people instead of explaining every time how to fix PCBs by oven baking.


so when i finally got home from a long day i went to go screw around with the card and it was dead agin.. tomorrow morning gonna re bake for 9 min. i think it just plain needs more solder somewhere probably under the prepossessing chip. so lets see what tomorrow brings.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Are you sure it's making good contact? Some cards need a shim between the block and core.


if i stop the water flow with in 2 seconds on 50mhz idle the pipes go from cold to fraily warm. and a small part of the heat spreader on the prepossessing chip is exposed to i can rest my finger on that to fell the temp difference. big with water flowing but the instant it stops pipes feel same as possessor. i do not doubt my contact.


----------



## snipekill2445

I tried baking this old HD 4870 I had once (was terrible card, built very poorly by some no name company) and it didn't fix it.

Sad times


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I tried baking this old HD 4870 I had once (was terrible card, built very poorly by some no name company) and it didn't fix it.
> 
> Sad times


i have heat gunned this card to partial life in the past. usually as soon as driver started it completely breaks. this oven trick working like this then failing leads me to believe i just plain have dry solder connections. i expect more than that from both EVGA and Nvidia! i stick with them expecting high quality parts. seriously this card runs so much hotter than my old 480. also sli is a big joke and both 2 way and 3 way kill performance.
also little detail i thought was odd, the inside pcb color of my old 480 was brown while the newer one of mine and one of my friends were green. i think his newer one also ran hotter than my older one. maby the EOL cards were cheeped out on.


----------



## snipekill2445

How old is the card? Things do eventually fail over time, especially parts producing alot of heat


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I tried baking this old HD 4870 I had once (was terrible card, built very poorly by some no name company) and it didn't fix it.
> 
> Sad times


HAY, if you still got that card there is one more thing to try. one time i was working on a visio tv that died from poor solder connections, but repairing them was not enough. it had a corrupted bios. if you can find your bios. obtain a eeprom programmer and its bios file, that might be a way to try and save it... and hay you can pick up a basic eeprom programmer on ebay for under 10$ and they work on desktop bios'es as well.


----------



## snipekill2445

No I burned this thing awhile ago, wasn't worth even trying to save


----------



## xxpenguinxx

It's the low quality solder. These GPU PCB manufacturers intentionally use it so it breaks overtime.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> It's the low quality solder. These GPU PCB manufacturers intentionally use it so it breaks overtime.


i know its lead free, witch cost more and is less reliable then your standard lead tin mix.
this is what i tihnk is happening, dry solder connection, high resistance, heats up and breaks connection. oven sets back in place.
and those bad solder connections could be contributing to my way to high heat output. becase a card made later on in time should have improvements if anything vs a launch model card.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> No I burned this thing awhile ago, wasn't worth even trying to save


whats with the blue fireballs on your profile and how did you get them?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

They're based on REP count, I'm not sure what the exact values are per fireball.


----------



## Duality92

25-100-250-350-500 (1-2-3-4-5) flames.

If I'm not mistaken.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> 25-100-250-350-500 (1-2-3-4-5) flames.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken.


*looks at flames*

*looks at rep count*

Nope! I wish though, that last flame is freaking elusive these days since almost no one gives +rep's...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1164692/overclock-net-site-features-and-explanations/0_20#user_rep


----------



## RockeyDA

i give + rep for cool pictures! but i dont know how to give unique.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> *looks at flames*
> 
> *looks at rep count*
> 
> Nope! I wish though, that last flame is freaking elusive these days since almost no one gives +rep's...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1164692/overclock-net-site-features-and-explanations/0_20#user_rep


----------



## richie_2010

Unique is where its a new person
if you repped me 10 times i would have 1 up in my unique cos youve never repped me before but then 10 in rep


----------



## Robitdolan

Don't know if this qualifies as ghetto, but I'll still post it.
I sticked this Zalman CNPS5X CPU cooler to this old ATI Radeon HD 4870 of mine. I used old PCI slot covers for fastening.

The temps changed dramatically. Idle went from about 63c to 49c and load went from 90c to about 60c. Keep in mind that the power consumption of this card is over 200w so the temps are quite good.

Even if the card doesn't have any support apart from the screws, it doesn't sag much. The cooler is rather lightweight.

In Furmark the cards over temp protection LED lights up and screen goes black. Core temp doesn't go far, so I suppose it's the vram of voltage regulators. One vram chip is missing a heatsink so it can be it. However it doesn't crash in any game or other program, so I don't lose sleep over it.
I didn't have thermal adhesive so I used 50/50 mix of epoxy and thermal paste







seems to be working.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robitdolan*
> 
> Don't know if this qualifies as ghetto, but I'll still post it.
> I sticked this Zalman CNPS5X CPU cooler to this old ATI Radeon HD 4870 of mine. I used old PCI slot covers for fastening.
> 
> The temps changed dramatically. Idle went from about 63c to 49c and load went from 90c to about 60c. Keep in mind that the power consumption of this card is over 200w so the temps are quite good.
> 
> Even if the card doesn't have any support apart from the screws, it doesn't sag much. The cooler is rather lightweight.
> 
> In Furmark the cards over temp protection LED lights up and screen goes black. Core temp doesn't go far, so I suppose it's the vram of voltage regulators. One vram chip is missing a heatsink so it can be it. However it doesn't crash in any game or other program, so I don't lose sleep over it.


That most certainly counts as ghetto. With duct tape and tie wraps though, it would bring it up a notch!


----------



## mr soft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robitdolan*
> 
> Don't know if this qualifies as ghetto, but I'll still post it.
> I sticked this Zalman CNPS5X CPU cooler to this old ATI Radeon HD 4870 of mine. *I used old PCI slot covers for fastening.*
> 
> The temps changed dramatically. Idle went from about 63c to 49c and load went from 90c to about 60c. Keep in mind that the power consumption of this card is over 200w so the temps are quite good.
> 
> Even if the card doesn't have any support apart from the screws, it doesn't sag much. The cooler is rather lightweight.
> 
> In Furmark the cards over temp protection LED lights up and screen goes black. Core temp doesn't go far, so I suppose it's the vram of voltage regulators. One vram chip is missing a heatsink so it can be it. However it doesn't crash in any game or other program, so I don't lose sleep over it.


I love it, it´s definitely ghetto enough


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robitdolan*
> 
> Don't know if this qualifies as ghetto, but I'll still post it.
> I sticked this Zalman CNPS5X CPU cooler to this old ATI Radeon HD 4870 of mine. I used old PCI slot covers for fastening.
> 
> The temps changed dramatically. Idle went from about 63c to 49c and load went from 90c to about 60c. Keep in mind that the power consumption of this card is over 200w so the temps are quite good.
> 
> Even if the card doesn't have any support apart from the screws, it doesn't sag much. The cooler is rather lightweight.
> 
> In Furmark the cards over temp protection LED lights up and screen goes black. Core temp doesn't go far, so I suppose it's the vram of voltage regulators. One vram chip is missing a heatsink so it can be it. However it doesn't crash in any game or other program, so I don't lose sleep over it.
> I didn't have thermal adhesive so I used 50/50 mix of epoxy and thermal paste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems to be working.


I LOVE IT!


----------



## Nukemaster

I would guess the VRM mosfets are what is getting too hot(memory rarely overheats without some hard clocks), but furmarks is VERY unrealistic and even less so on those cards(many cards have it black listed in drivers to avoid its power virus effect.).

Great mod either way.


----------



## 0493mike

Epoxy and thermal paste, oh my. That certainly is ghetto. And I applaud you sir.
Got a good laugh from that. Thanks.
The slot cover is genius.


----------



## GhettoFied




----------



## RockeyDA

i might be retiring the Dell XPS 600 by force. its the board you seen in my last post with the 480. this bord was something i picked up in 2010 for 15$ sold as parts. it had a dameged gt7900 that cased awesome model spazzes and texture glitches in games, it also had bent pins on the cpu socket causing massive stability problems. all problems were addressed with in the first year.
since then the computer has been striped down to a test bench once i got my sr-2. at one point when i was working on it one of my firends was riding a freaken scooter in my basement while i was working on the floor, ran over my xps MB while i was working on it and riped caps right off the bord... some how survived and i couldn't find the caps.

so short verson of this and more its been dropped on concrete several times, ran over, had water spilled on it with it turned on had several dead gpu's in it, and ran for the last 3 month's overheating because the north bridge chip set heatsink got knocked loose.

the last 6 months or so the motherboard has only been able to properly function with 2gb of ram or less. and as of yesterday i tested a broken gt 650 ti boost i tired to bake as last resort. it did not work and almost melted my psu cables. since then my motherboard gets random ram errors and wont turn on or restarts after the"Press [F1] to continue". i think its time to find a new test board and my god this was the most incredible thing dell ever made.
completely worth the 15$!

Here is a pick of it in its prime, 8gb of xms3 800mhz ram, Pentium D 950 and the same gtx 480 im using in my SR-2


it dies with honor!


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i might be retiring the Dell XPS 600 by force. its the board you seen in my last post with the 480. this bord was something i picked up in 2010 for 15$ sold as parts. it had a dameged gt7900 that cased awesome model spazzes and texture glitches in games, it also had bent pins on the cpu socket causing massive stability problems. all problems were addressed with in the first year.
> since then the computer has been striped down to a test bench once i got my sr-2. at one point when i was working on it one of my firends was riding a freaken scooter in my basement while i was working on the floor, ran over my xps MB while i was working on it and riped caps right off the bord... some how survived and i couldn't find the caps.
> 
> so short verson of this and more its been dropped on concrete several times, ran over, had water spilled on it with it turned on had several dead gpu's in it, and ran for the last 3 month's overheating because the north bridge chip set heatsink got knocked loose.
> 
> the last 6 months or so the motherboard has only been able to properly function with 2gb of ram or less. and as of yesterday i tested a broken gt 650 ti boost i tired to bake as last resort. it did not work and almost melted my psu cables. since then my motherboard gets random ram errors and wont turn on or restarts after the"Press [F1] to continue". i think its time to find a new test board and my god this was the most incredible thing dell ever made.
> completely worth the 15$!
> 
> Here is a pick of it in its prime, 8gb of xms3 800mhz ram, Pentium D 950 and the same gtx 480 im using in my SR-2
> 
> 
> it dies with honor!


Love it!


----------



## 0493mike

Took a licken, and kept on ticken.

R.I.P.


----------



## RockeyDA

OMG!! the xps is still alive. its just now i cant have my scsi controller in serten pci ports ands also any gpu will randomly not work. but after a few restarts i can get windows to boot with minimal errors. so i guss im not retiring it until i find another bord with at least 2 pci-e ports. but with all these problems its probably gonna kick that bucket of no refills any day now.


----------



## Duality92

Does this fit?









It's like 30C here so mounted fans so I can get a breeze and my rig can evacuate his better.



Tie wrapped 4*140mm XSPC fans and a NZXT grid and BAM 280mm fan! Hahaha


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Does this fit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's like 30C here so mounted fans so I can get a breeze and my rig can evacuate his better.
> 
> 
> 
> Tie wrapped 4*140mm XSPC fans and a NZXT grid and BAM 280mm fan! Hahaha


infomercial...."tired of your pc getting too hot...tired of not getting enough air..."


----------



## Jimbags

Haha I thought it was an R/C Drone strapped to it :-D


----------



## FloofyFox

Ooooo, ghetto mods! I've got a couple pics to share









A younger me was a little strapped for parts and cash when I built my first media server. I had to do a few creative mods of my own:

Used a spare intel heatsink fan as a case exhaust...


I had to use an HP case but decided to make it ghetto-fabulous!



Just a few months later, I hosted a LAN party and a friend needed a spare PC. I had an overheating Radeon X1950XT where I decided to upgrade the cooling.


...aaand I didn't really have a spare case for him to use my spare motherboard so I broke out the deck screws.



That same board was still kicking around, so in the spirit of things I decided to continue on the tradition of it being screwed to wood... but this time make it MOBILE!











Spoiler: More angles







I guess I was a little bit inspired by Thermaltake's Level 10.

So I decided to call mine the Level 1.



I hope you enjoyed, and keep up the shenanigans!


----------



## Nukemaster

I kind of like the wood+handle mod.
It is actually cool looking.


----------



## tomytom99

"Level 1" XD


----------



## 0493mike

I think that is a very good looking level 1. Pretty neat idea. And I did enjoy it rhanks


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Does this fit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's like 30C here so mounted fans so I can get a breeze and my rig can evacuate his better.
> 
> 
> 
> Tie wrapped 4*140mm XSPC fans and a NZXT grid and BAM 280mm fan! Hahaha


that camra has a big fancy lense.. im jelly. also a "cool" ideah.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloofyFox*
> 
> Ooooo, ghetto mods! I've got a couple pics to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A younger me was a little strapped for parts and cash when I built my first media server. I had to do a few creative mods of my own:
> 
> Used a spare intel heatsink fan as a case exhaust...
> 
> I had to use an HP case but decided to make it ghetto-fabulous!
> 
> Just a few months later, I hosted a LAN party and a friend needed a spare PC. I had an overheating Radeon X1950XT where I decided to upgrade the cooling.
> 
> ...aaand I didn't really have a spare case for him to use my spare motherboard so I broke out the deck screws.
> 
> That same board was still kicking around, so in the spirit of things I decided to continue on the tradition of it being screwed to wood... but this time make it MOBILE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I was a little bit inspired by Thermaltake's Level 10.
> 
> So I decided to call mine the Level 1.
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I hope you enjoyed, and keep up the shenanigans!


I love it, especially the wall mount pic.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Don't know if this count as ghetto, but I've extended my original home made liquid cooled (super-old) PC, and so the VGA was included in the loop








The WB is of course entirely homemade produced, and the anchorage system is a little bit experimental ^^

*Wood scrap shaped drilled and painted to seal everything, and 4 wooden screws to keep everything to fall apart



The mechanism is experimental but very succesful, I used heatshrink tube to keep the screws toghether and the great thing is that they can still be screwed, so the fit is absolutely tight, here a picture to explain the concept











Actualy the top srew is srcrewed to the bottom one (because the heatshrink is acting like a plastic nut) and the screw is insulated from the PCB with some electical tape



Here the final pictures









Cheers!







*


----------



## RockeyDA

Today im matancing my wooden snes... mainly the cartridge slot because its having trouble reading games...

i wish i has more contact cleaner. time to breakout the cardboard and lighter fluid.


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> Don't know if this count as ghetto, but I've extended my original home made liquid cooled (super-old) PC, and so the VGA was included in the loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The WB is of course entirely homemade produced, and the anchorage system is a little bit experimental ^^
> 
> *Wood scrap shaped drilled and painted to seal everything, and 4 wooden screws to keep everything to fall apart
> 
> The mechanism is experimental but very succesful, I used heatshrink tube to keep the screws toghether and the great thing is that they can still be screwed, so the fit is absolutely tight, here a picture to explain the concept
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actualy the top srew is srcrewed to the bottom one (because the heatshrink is acting like a plastic nut) and the screw is insulated from the PCB with some electical tape
> 
> Here the final pictures
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Need more details on this setup?


----------



## Nukemaster

I think they are talking about the wood strap that holds the block on and the 4 screws(2 from the top and 2 from the bottom) held to each other by heat shrink and the fact that the threads line up.

I am more interested in the self made looking blocks


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

If you need more information no problem









The WB on the CPU was alredy posted some months ago (*HERE*), now I've made the GPU WB in a similar way, but I must admit it was easyer this time, carving out the space in a methyl acrylate plastic block instead of creating layers of plexiglas to close the WB (as seen in the CPU WB post) is much faster


----------



## Nukemaster

Your cpu block is exactly the way water cooling was born. I think I had come across that post in the past.

Thank you for the images of the video block.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

No prob at all, it was my super first design, not sure if it was the best but after an entire year is still in perfect shape







THe GPU block is my second attempt and infact was really faster to make and I'm pretty exited, now the PC is dead silent, I also made a video to show the silence it makes ^^


----------



## NvNw

@HoFattoSoloCosi Nice work on those WB. I can see that you are using aluminum cores and brass (or copper) fitting or the tube, don't forget to use anti corrosive on the water cause you are mixing metal.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Thanks a lot for the reply







The problem of corrosion was addressed the first time when I designed the loop. The aluminum cores were choosed because the radiator was actually an old aluminum one (is a no brand one but scraching the surface it's all grey and shiny) so the metal were combined that way. The brass on the fittings is really just on the outside, internally is entirely covered in plastic. Infact the liquid inside the circuit is just ordinary demineralized water with a 5% add of alcohol to keep the water clean from molds and bacteria







.









*If you are curious this is the 1 year check made some days ago, before adding the VGA WB in the loop:
The water was absolutely perfect, still smelling of alcohol, and no signs of nothing, not even deposits of galvanic corrosion








*





*Cleaned the pump and then changed all the tubings from transparent old ones to blue plastic*





*The home made (of course) wooden case to insert the PC in the desk







*



*But that's another story







if interested will surely follow other pictures (I have a lot) ^^*


----------



## xxpenguinxx

You should do a build log!

The graphics card in that last picture, is that a ghetto rigged heat sink or a nuclear reactor? Looks crazy.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> You should do a build log!
> 
> The graphics card in that last picture, is that a ghetto rigged heat sink or a nuclear reactor? Looks crazy.


I'm leaning to say it's a reactor built to power the computer. XD


----------



## ronnin426850

Radiator for the rectifier bridge of SF-550K12XP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnin426850*
> 
> I ghettoed it a bit, but it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No fireworks so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?


----------



## Nukemaster

It can't hurt









I use parts of old cpu coolers on voltage regulators


----------



## RockeyDA

i have a question, dose anybody know if dubble gpu cards work as horrible in sli? because i have never seen sli even break even with a single card in performance. i just winder if you got a dubble gpu like the gtx 295 card would that mean your stuck with that jerky twitchy fps you get with sli.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

LOL I've an entire build log for the first WB, for the second as well, and one also for the case, but they are on another (Italian) forum. If some are interested I can ofcoure translate them (there are not a lot of words but really a lot of pictures) and post them on this site too ;D No prob.

*@tomytom99* | *@xxpenguinxx*

The grafic card in the last picture is an *ATi 9700 PRO* with a *Zalman ZM80A-HP* passive cooler. The card I used for the WB prototype is an older *nVidia FX5500*, expendable in case of failure.

*
The case in his final shape looks like that :
*


*And here the final location in the desk :*

 

 

*And with the PC inside :*


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> If you need more information no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics, post, real cool
> 
> 
> 
> The WB on the CPU was alredy posted some months ago (*HERE*), now I've made the GPU WB in a similar way, but I must admit it was easyer this time, carving out the space in a methyl acrylate plastic block instead of creating layers of plexiglas to close the WB (as seen in the CPU WB post) is much faster


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoFattoSoloCosi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: real cool pics, post
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot for the reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem of corrosion was addressed the first time when I designed the loop. The aluminum cores were choosed because the radiator was actually an old aluminum one (is a no brand one but scraching the surface it's all grey and shiny) so the metal were combined that way. The brass on the fittings is really just on the outside, internally is entirely covered in plastic. Infact the liquid inside the circuit is just ordinary demineralized water with a 5% add of alcohol to keep the water clean from molds and bacteria
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *If you are curious this is the 1 year check made some days ago, before adding the VGA WB in the loop:
> The water was absolutely perfect, still smelling of alcohol, and no signs of nothing, not even deposits of galvanic corrosion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cleaned the pump and then changed all the tubings from transparent old ones to blue plastic*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *The home made (of course) wooden case to insert the PC in the desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But that's another story
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if interested will surely follow other pictures (I have a lot) ^^*


Dude. Umad. I want to be a computer in your basement. When I saw these posts, I literally looked like this:


----------



## xxpenguinxx

That is awesome. I have a large gab under the shelf on my desk, you're custom case is giving me ideas.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i have a question, dose anybody know if dubble gpu cards work as horrible in sli? because i have never seen sli even break even with a single card in performance. i just winder if you got a dubble gpu like the gtx 295 card would that mean your stuck with that jerky twitchy fps you get with sli.


You can simply disable SLI completely in the driver or turn it off for specific applications. I was running a 9800GX2 for a short while and had no issues running it with and without SLI.


----------



## ML241

DIY water cooling. I had a antec kuhler 620 I took apart. I found a pump and put it together again with a huge res. I'm gonna clean up the hose mess tomorrow.











It works much better than the 620 and now gives me an excuse to get better radiators and a real block.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

*@KYKYLLIKA*

LOL thanks a lot







I really care about my PCs









The setup in the pictures is changed a lot of times during this years, the loop is just the last "madness" but also the most fun part.

*@xxpenguinxx*

Yup, this is not my official desk, is just an old computer desk I found and carried home. The original components, even with the water loop, were floating around in the desk and this was really annoying because every time I had to change or check something the parts were difficult to reach and very unstable.

*So I made a first scketch until I found the final design I liked :*









*I also did an extension cable (from an old phone) for the power on and off switch because the button is inserted in the desk, so when you pull the case out you simply extend the cable without any risk of breaking it ^^
*





*@ML241*

Nice setup! ^^ Is your pump noisy? I ask because mine is dead silent (I also have a video of the setup running) and the fans are downvolted, but a friend of mine is complaining about is noisy sub-pump so I'm asking to something else


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> That is awesome. I have a large gab under the shelf on my desk, you're custom case is giving me ideas.
> You can simply disable SLI completely in the driver or turn it off for specific applications. I was running a 9800GX2 for a short while and had no issues running it with and without SLI.


so double gpu cards do show up as sli? also i know back when i had a 3way sli setup it looked as good as 1 card. in metro ll on max settings 1 card was 10-15fps, while 3 cards was 8-90 fps. and two way was about 8-60 fps, and because every second the frame rate would chop super low it looked so much worse than a single card.
after a week of putting up with sli i gave away 1 card and put the other in a different rig. (i feel like the 480 has to much power to be wasted on just phys-x)
since i like posting pics, here is a pic of once was.


----------



## hartofwave

Does a RAM bookmark count?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Will it work with e-books?


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

*@hartofwave*

Wonderful


----------



## GhettoFied

@HoFattoSoloCosi Your build is super impressive, I love the wooden case. I made a wooden test bench similar to your's but your woodworking skills are far superior. Making me want to build a new one lol!


----------



## hartofwave

I plan to do it again with another dimm, this time more gently to reduce scratching.


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Will it work with e-books?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> I plan to do it again with another dimm, this time more genitally to reduce scratching.


surely you don't mean that


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> surely you don't mean that


Why not? i've a few dimms like ddr1/2 that i'm never gunna use


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> I plan to do it again with another dimm, this time more *genitally* to reduce scratching.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> surely you don't mean that
Click to expand...

You sure you don't mean gently?


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

*@GhettoFied*

Too kind, thanks







I have to admit this is my first ever experience with wood, even if I have seen other working with it. My tools were super limited so if you want to have a go I'm sure you can do a great job as well. I only had an hand saw, a regular drill and some sand paper, grey primer-paint, flat black spray paint and acrylic green (brush) paint. Surely I tried to keep high the accuracy ^^ I didn't used any glue, but you can still lift the entire PC without any risk of breaking the case!





*If you are trying to guess, the aluminium strips were used as rails, two glued on the desk floor and the other two to the bottom of the case.*



*I had a lot of measuring to do..and do again..*







*2 coats of primer*



*And 2 layers for any paint, first the black one and secondly the green one*


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> You sure you don't mean gently?


XD HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ahhhhh right. yes. good. hmm.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> *looks at flames*
> 
> *looks at rep count*
> 
> Nope! I wish though, that last flame is freaking elusive these days since almost no one gives +rep's...
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1164692/overclock-net-site-features-and-explanations/0_20#user_rep


+1 Rep


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Anyone else here have a surround setup with an aux display, but that aux display is just a space hog?
> 
> Continue reading...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Lots-O-Pics
> 
> 
> 
> First I look at the screen itself, typical budget monitor stand
> 
> 
> Oh look, a screw, what can i do with this. certainly something...
> 
> gotta be able to do something with that bottom screw...
> So I took a closer look at my fleebay special triple lcd mount.
> 
> 
> Oh look... A cap... Hmmmmm, what can I do with this?
> 
> hey, let's find a washer to put the screw through the cap... Found a washer!!!
> 
> But oh... cap came apart.
> 
> Electrical tape to the rescue!
> 
> 
> So now to put the smaller washer on the bigger one to make sure the screw doesn't fall through.
> 
> 
> Mounting time!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yeah, looking good. Now the moment of truth. will the stand hold it?
> 
> 
> 
> Hell yeah!!!
> 
> Final look at the finished product!
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs those fancy multi hundred dollar stands?


Had a little mis hap with this setup. The other night i was going to bed and heard a crash, top monitor fell. Turns out i had it angled too much. looks like more tape for the inside seal and maybe some on the exterior is in order.









thankfully the monitor was not damaged at all, which was surprising having a cheapo LCD fall over a foot onto the desk.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Had a little mis hap with this setup. The other night i was going to bed and heard a crash, top monitor fell. Turns out i had it angled too much. looks like more tape for the inside seal and maybe some on the exterior is in order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thankfully the monitor was not damaged at all, which was surprising having a cheapo LCD fall over a foot onto the desk.


I've "accidentally" kicked an HP VS15. Those cheap monitors only break when you least expect it. My foot and the floor was hurt more than the monitor.

I need to figure out how I can mount both my Kuhler 920 cooler, and the 295x2 (same as Kuhler 620) both in my C70. The 920 won't fit in the rear top mount, or else it hits the VRM cooler. I'll likely have my 295x2 set to the rear mount, and my 920 to the front top mount. "Welcome to the jungle, we've got hoses 'n wires"

It's gonna be sketchy. My other option is to eventually just get both running on a custom loop, or make that phase change system for my CPU. That'll be fun.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloofyFox*
> 
> Ooooo, ghetto mods! I've got a couple pics to share
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A younger me was a little strapped for parts and cash when I built my first media server. I had to do a few creative mods of my own:
> 
> Used a spare intel heatsink fan as a case exhaust...
> 
> 
> I had to use an HP case but decided to make it ghetto-fabulous!
> 
> 
> 
> Just a few months later, I hosted a LAN party and a friend needed a spare PC. I had an overheating Radeon X1950XT where I decided to upgrade the cooling.
> 
> 
> ...aaand I didn't really have a spare case for him to use my spare motherboard so I broke out the deck screws.
> 
> 
> 
> That same board was still kicking around, so in the spirit of things I decided to continue on the tradition of it being screwed to wood... but this time make it MOBILE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More angles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I was a little bit inspired by Thermaltake's Level 10.
> 
> So I decided to call mine the Level 1.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you enjoyed, and keep up the shenanigans!


I love this!


----------



## pillowsack

I think I deserve a medal.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pillowsack*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I deserve a medal.


for never cleaning you case?







j/k


----------



## FloofyFox

Thanks all for the positive feedback.

I built the Level 1 as a temporary Windows 10 Preview machine a few months back during the first release. It's handy to tote around and works as a spare PC in a pinch.

My friend @trevorludgate gave me an old NZXT Havik 140 heatsink he had lying around that had missing mounting brackets. I decided it would be a good replacement for the stock Intel heatsink on my i7 930 build. I had to drill some new holes in two identical brackets I had spare and try to get them lined up with the mounting posts.


He had a spare backplate and standoff screws from an H100i that I reused for the Havik. It ended up working pretty nicely. I did however, have to use a bunch of paper washers to get a uniform height.


And here it is mounted.


It works! I was surprised how smoothly the whole custom bracket ordeal went through. I was expecting to have to fight to get it working.


----------



## FloofyFox

Shout out to you guys in the last few pages, some really creative stuff going on there. Also, those custom heatsinks are nuts! Really cool.

@RockeyDA is that a full custom wooden SNES? With working sliding buttons and stuff? It even looks like the original! I have an old N64 where the case is broken but I think the mainboard is still in good condition. I was considering taking the internals out and trying to build something around it, maybe not on your scale of replication though.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Thanks







And really good job with that heatsink mont *FloofyFox*!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> Does a RAM bookmark count?


And sometimes I use an old ISA gpu as a bookmark.

Mission: "Fix the net !"
Objectives:
-Stabilize internet connection
-End up with acceptable looks (optional)





Results
-Stabilize internet connection-Successful
-End up with acceptable looks-Fail

The internet is far more stable but there's still room for improvement as there's still some instability. Next is to replace the rest of capacitors with polymer ones(3x470uF 16V 3x100uF 16V).


----------



## Sempre

I just caught up with the last few pages and they're filled with superb ghetto work wow...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> And sometimes I use an old ISA gpu as a bookmark.
> 
> Mission: "Fix the net !"
> Objectives:
> -Stabilize internet connection
> -End up with acceptable looks (optional)
> 
> Results
> -Stabilize internet connection-Successful
> -End up with acceptable looks-Fail
> 
> The internet is far more stable but there's still room for improvement as there's still some instability. Next is to replace the rest of capacitors with polymer ones(3x470uF 16V 3x100uF 16V).


Good work







This makes me think of doing the same thing to my Huawei HG8245T. Sometimes there are random slowdowns which only resolves by resetting the modem. Maybe it's temperature throttling or the slowdowns are actually from the ISP.


----------



## SirRobinII

Temperately setup till my cpu pump/block (cm eisberg) gets fixed.


----------



## Hl86

A very simple but effective mod.


----------



## cravinmild

Nice ghetto mods guys/gals. Love this thread


----------



## mllrkllr88

My NB has a built in reservoir but I wanted to make it a bit bigger to hold MOARRR DICE. I used InstaMorph, its pretty awesome stuff


----------



## Jimbags

The mobo in this prebuilt acer only had 2 sata ports and one external esata. I added my SSD, HDD so had to use the esata for the ODD. I wanted a ODD as its my htpc.The acer case is very SFF around 9L. I really like it. Specs are
E8400
4gb ram
750ti
In the pics you can see the esata cable going from ODD through pci slots to external esata  also note the bdmi plug in the gpu.


----------



## superj1977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I think many white LED's are blue with a coating to make it white. The camera may see the blue more than our eyes.
> 
> A quick edit can make it more white


Hi.
That fan placement is not really a good idea TBH.
Reason is that your Titan X have centrifugal fan that pushes air out of the back and front of the cooler. Forcing in air in the wrong direction will if anything cause hakok with airflow.

Change the orientation of that fan


----------



## snipekill2445

That fan is pushing air towards the back of the case, I'm not sure how flipping it so it's effectively sucking air away from the GPUs would help at all


----------



## broadbandaddict

I needed a place to put my Wii sensor bar so I hacked up a 3M rubber pad and stuck it to the top of my speaker. The pieces on the side are only one thick while the three holding the sensor in place are double thick. It works great.











Spoiler: Wii Sensor Pics









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superj1977*
> 
> Hi.
> That fan placement is not really a good idea TBH.
> Reason is that your Titan X have centrifugal fan that pushes air out of the back and front of the cooler. Forcing in air in the wrong direction will if anything cause hakok with airflow.
> 
> Change the orientation of that fan


Pretty sure his Titan Xs have a blower style fan that exhausts out the rear so the fan is fine like that.


----------



## FloofyFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Pretty sure his Titan Xs have a blower style fan that exhausts out the rear so the fan is fine like that.


No, from what I've seen I think the TitanX exhausts a portion out the front of the card, but the majority goes out the back. There's a heatsink in front of the blower fan that covers the VRMs or something. Take a look at this end of the card, the fins are open to the end. There will be some airflow here.


The fan looks like it's providing cold air for the intake of the GPU blowers, but will probably conflict with that small exhaust there. The question is, will it actually make a difference?

I agree that the fan would make more of a difference blowing cold air to the intakes of the GPUs, but flipping it will probably cause another airflow conflict with the front intake fan on the case. I'm curious @Nukemaster, did adding that fan help temps of your top GPU any? Is that why it's there? There seems to be enough space between the two for that not to be an issue.


----------



## 0493mike

I dont know about the titan but when I pulled my reference 780 apart, the fan has a housing around it an blows all the air out the back end of the computer.

The heat sink by the cards power ports is just passive and the voltage regulators are directly below the fan which picks up that heat first then through the core out the back.

You can look down through the fan with a flashlight and might see if it has any way for air to go out that way.


----------



## Nukemaster

The picture in question is from Prophet4NO1. I just edited that users image to make the LED's more white. It may be best to get @Prophet4NO1 in here to answer your questions.

This is the post the image was fist shown in
http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/5000_40#post_23951405


----------



## Jordanh517

My GPU started to sagg pretty badly, and I struggled to find a brace to hold it.

A mix of K'NEX and insulation tape and I had the answer!!!


----------



## hartofwave

Ghetto flow indicator? xD BTW first watercooling build (I have used the pump block from an H80) will post some pics tomorrow


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloofyFox*
> 
> Shout out to you guys in the last few pages, some really creative stuff going on there. Also, those custom heatsinks are nuts! Really cool.
> 
> @RockeyDA is that a full custom wooden SNES? With working sliding buttons and stuff? It even looks like the original! I have an old N64 where the case is broken but I think the mainboard is still in good condition. I was considering taking the internals out and trying to build something around it, maybe not on your scale of replication though.


if i had enough time i think i could. the hardest part would be working the curves.


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i might be retiring the Dell XPS 600 by force. its the board you seen in my last post with the 480. this bord was something i picked up in 2010 for 15$ sold as parts. it had a dameged gt7900 that cased awesome model spazzes and texture glitches in games, it also had bent pins on the cpu socket causing massive stability problems. all problems were addressed with in the first year.
> since then the computer has been striped down to a test bench once i got my sr-2. at one point when i was working on it one of my firends was riding a freaken scooter in my basement while i was working on the floor, ran over my xps MB while i was working on it and riped caps right off the bord... some how survived and i couldn't find the caps.
> 
> so short verson of this and more its been dropped on concrete several times, ran over, had water spilled on it with it turned on had several dead gpu's in it, and ran for the last 3 month's overheating because the north bridge chip set heatsink got knocked loose.
> 
> the last 6 months or so the motherboard has only been able to properly function with 2gb of ram or less. and as of yesterday i tested a broken gt 650 ti boost i tired to bake as last resort. it did not work and almost melted my psu cables. since then my motherboard gets random ram errors and wont turn on or restarts after the"Press [F1] to continue". i think its time to find a new test board and my god this was the most incredible thing dell ever made.
> completely worth the 15$!
> 
> Here is a pick of it in its prime, 8gb of xms3 800mhz ram, Pentium D 950 and the same gtx 480 im using in my SR-2
> 
> 
> it dies with honor!


I still own the same Pc. It's still kicking. Tough computer.


----------



## Powerg4

That's crazy!









Don't know how it kept running without the capacitors, they were probably just there to help filter the power and reduce interference or something!
Most boards are pretty tough though, the only main board I've ever killed was an old Pentium 4 ECS board years ago after some thermal paste got into the cpu socket (don't ask how!







)
Also had another ECS board just die and refuse to get past POST, don't know what it was with those boards, I stick to Intel and Asus now!


----------



## rogue1xwing

Is this ghetto enough??


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

That ARCADE desktop is awesome, clever idea to revisit a classic! ^^


----------



## rogue1xwing

it has a control panel that slots in and out when needed
Thanks for the appreciation!!


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Epic!!! Retrogaming FTW! Here in Italy we have a lot of enthusiast


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLADEizGOD*
> 
> I still own the same Pc. It's still kicking. Tough computer.


its not the most stable, but i got the dell xps running again, witch pci and pci-e slots i use affect stability. use wrong slots i cant boot

UPDATE, blew up my ps3 power supply thing to run a rather high amperage fan up to it. maby if i can find pin out of fat model power supply i can rig it up to my slim.


----------



## 0493mike

Its like frankinstien, cant kill it. RockyDA your sure getting your money out of that one.

Love the setup. Takes me back to the old days but with a new twist. Very nice.


----------



## hartofwave

Those tubing step up things are so expensive....


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> Those tubing step up things are so expensive....


Does that hold?


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rogue1xwing*
> 
> 
> it has a control panel that slots in and out when needed
> Thanks for the appreciation!!


That is so brilliant. Incredible job!


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hartofwave*
> 
> Those tubing step up things are so expensive....


You can just put reglar clear 1/4" tubing over the barb and 3/8" tubing over the 1/4" tubing. It does that same thing and it works well too


----------



## hartofwave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> Does that hold?


Seems to, I'm more worried about my northbridge tbh
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> You can just put reglar clear 1/4" tubing over the barb and 3/8" tubing over the 1/4" tubing. It does that same thing and it works well too


Thats what i did


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> You can just put reglar clear 1/4" tubing over the barb and 3/8" tubing over the 1/4" tubing. It does that same thing and it works well too


Me too, and that holds as well, no problem for my setup ^^


----------



## RockeyDA

i was getting worried i was gonna burn up my sub so time to treat it like a computer.


----------



## snipekill2445

I've got a couple of those subwoofers in my car, running on a 1200w rms amp @4ohm

Haven't had trouble with them getting too hot


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Could it just be the amp sending dirty power to the sub?


----------



## famous1994

Zip tied a 140mm fan in the front of my Level 10 GT, to get more air going in. I zip tied the top screw holes to sides of the drive bay and used my card reader as a wedge on the bottom so it won't move out of place.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I've got a couple of those subwoofers in my car, running on a 1200w rms amp @4ohm
> 
> Haven't had trouble with them getting too hot


sub 750w rms 2ohm
amp 800w rms(really only gives aobut 550wrms) 2ohm... guss its what i get for buying a amp made in china
so im not overpowering it, the coil getting that hot seems ridiculous... guss its what i get for buying a sub made in china.

mean while my usa made JL running on a good 500w rms amp @4ohms has never gotten hot on me and the sub is 300rms.

blowing on the vents of the alpine i feel hot air on other side to these fans otta help alot.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Could it just be the amp sending dirty power to the sub?


by dirty power do you mean distorted/clipped audio?


----------



## snipekill2445

Running a JBL GTO14001 here, got the subs and amp used for a good deal a couple years back, have only actually installed them properly in the boot with a 1/0kit recently


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Running a JBL GTO14001 here, got the subs and amp used for a good deal a couple years back, have only actually installed them properly in the boot with a 1/0kit recently


did not know jbl made car amps.
in my time the best car amp i have been able to get ahold of is a pioneer gm-x862 that is only 380w rms on 2 home both channels. so my sub can barley move on that thing.

for the heck of it this is the low power, would love to some day see it on the prober 750 wats


----------



## Jimbags

What do you guys think of a fan in my reciever? It gets really hot in my tv cabinet is all.


----------



## snipekill2445

That car is feral


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> What do you guys think of a fan in my reciever? It gets really hot in my tv cabinet is all.


You may be able to cut an opening and install the fan in the stand it self, It would help with cooling of everything. You can get 120/240 volt fans and some receivers have switched outlets to auto start them.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> You may be able to cut an opening and install the fan in the stand it self, It would help with cooling of everything. You can get 120/240 volt fans and some receivers have switched outlets to auto start them.


every reciever I've had since 1990 has had passthrough outlets...pretty good option honestly


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> every reciever I've had since 1990 has had passthrough outlets...pretty good option honestly


Sorry, whst are passthrough outlets?
I mean ive heard of hdmi pass theough etc but for fans?


----------



## Nukemaster

Just another 120 or 240 volt outlet on the back of equipment(even old computers had that setup for monitors, but it was a different plug[opposite version of what we have on our power supply now or like having the end you connect to the power supply].).

Cable tuners and converters tend to have them as well.

Some are referred to as "switched" and power on and off with the device it self while others are always on and called unswitched(I am guessing this is passthrough).


----------



## FloofyFox

You could also use an old AC/DC transformer plug and snip the end off and wire it straight to the fan. I've done that for a few old ones I had lying around from old cell phones and whatnot. Most of those adapters go between 5V and 12V / 1A output anyway.

It could be an easy project to make a cooling fan for the whole cabinet. You'd be surprised what one little fan can do for even a large cabinet. All it takes is a little airflow to make a big difference.


----------



## Nukemaster

I did that with an old 120mm fan(sat it at the back of an HP with all the slot covers removed) from an IBM before 120mm fans became even remotely standard on computers(late 80's to early 90s).

Great little 120 x 38mm thick fan(regret giving it away, it was actually very good.).


----------



## Jimbags

I knocked something up quickly, will solder heatshrink at a later point.I used an in line 12v to 7v adapter I got with a noctua cpu cooler I was going to use the y splitter cable and have 2 fans but with the noctua low noise adapter the second fan wasnt doing much and was too loud at full 12v. Used a 12v 3Amp power pack from an old eeebox asus pc. 120mm CM sickleflow is the fan.


----------



## Nukemaster

looks good and plenty of power.

With the ULNA and LNA adapters, It is best to use one per fan as more fans may cause too much heat in the resistor.

Alternatively a switching regulator after the power supply can give you more control. Even a linear regulator like like a 317 would work, but they are not very efficient(not much worse than a large resistor I guess.). You max voltage would also be limited to maybe 10-10.5 volts because the regulator needs some headroom.


----------



## jfing14

This is a 775 cooler on a 1150 board with no mounting




Thermal paste is all that keeps it on there and it keeps it cooler than the intel stock heatsink


----------



## Nukemaster

And to think I wasted time getting bolts for my 775 heatsink on LGA 1156.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

What thermal paste are you using? I would think it would just slide off once it's warmed up.


----------



## FloofyFox

Twist: He used double-sided tape.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> What thermal paste are you using? I would think it would just slide off once it's warmed up.


Then fall on the board and short the video card and motherboard.


----------



## Nukemaster

The board looks to be laying down(like in a desktop case) so it should not move at all.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Don't feel too bad,when I was a kid... they were called Washington logs.


Ahhh...I remember those days. Lol


----------



## cptnighthawk666

they should call this thread-light your house on fire shenanigans...lol just joking...


----------



## Gareth Ward

I have my Fallout 4 Pre order receipt in a small bag attached with Velcro inside my PC. Cuz you know.


----------



## Robitdolan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robitdolan*
> 
> Don't know if this qualifies as ghetto, but I'll still post it.
> I sticked this Zalman CNPS5X CPU cooler to this old ATI Radeon HD 4870 of mine. I used old PCI slot covers for fastening.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The temps changed dramatically. Idle went from about 63c to 49c and load went from 90c to about 60c. Keep in mind that the power consumption of this card is over 200w so the temps are quite good.
> 
> Even if the card doesn't have any support apart from the screws, it doesn't sag much. The cooler is rather lightweight.
> 
> In Furmark the cards over temp protection LED lights up and screen goes black. Core temp doesn't go far, so I suppose it's the vram of voltage regulators. One vram chip is missing a heatsink so it can be it. However it doesn't crash in any game or other program, so I don't lose sleep over it.
> I didn't have thermal adhesive so I used 50/50 mix of epoxy and thermal paste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems to be working.


I got tired of the old small and noisy fan, so I decided to hot glue a 120mm fan to it out of a broken PSU (****ty Cooler Master G450M, it broke twice).

I had to solder a wire which had the 4-pin connector to it, because it had a psu fan connector.
My awesome gluing already failed and the fan is hanging from a few drops of glue. But now it's significantly quieter.


----------



## Nukemaster

I love that cpu cooler on a video card


----------



## hartofwave

DDC pump mounted on a HDD, so this was a stroke of genius I had just now. I took an old IDE HDD dismantled it drilled 2 holes in the to plate. Using anti vibration things form old CD drives I made the mounts for it.




It goes; off cut of water bottle lid, CD drive anti vibration, m3 m3 standoff, and a m3 nut on the underside from a NB eloop. The black ones are held in place double sided sticky tape on the HDD side.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Just another 120 or 240 volt outlet on the back of equipment(even old computers had that setup for monitors, but it was a different plug[opposite version of what we have on our power supply now or like having the end you connect to the power supply].).
> 
> Cable tuners and converters tend to have them as well.
> 
> Some are referred to as "switched" and power on and off with the device it self while others are always on and called unswitched(I am guessing this is passthrough).


correct...most now require power I.e. Switched ive only had one with true passthrough...it literally had straight power from the psu of the receiver wired to the outlet it didn't use regulation board/ports...but switched is always better unless you plug in something like an alarm clock and then turn off your stereo before bed....(ask me how I know?)


----------



## Nukemaster

I guess you did not make it to work or school on time after switching off a device controlling an alarm clock









The pump on an old hard drive is great(and solid).


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> That car is feral


im assuming by feral you mean beat up and kinda ghetto? if so well in the video i failed to show half the setup. here is how i get sound and run my mids/tweeters

and of course my audio splitter was something i soldered together from a old vcr.


----------



## snipekill2445

I mean beat up and extremely ghetto


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> im assuming by feral you mean beat up and kinda ghetto? if so well in the video i failed to show half the setup. here is how i get sound and run my mids/tweeters
> 
> and of course my audio splitter was something i soldered together from a old vcr.


----------



## RockeyDA

todays ghetto, and maby some help if you know whats going wrong.
so i got a hp z800 off ebay, realized it had a goofy power connector so i looked up its pin out, rigged some things.

cutten up dem cables


makin connections


WOOH SHE FIRES UP!


here comes sad, after the hard driver controller dose that thing hp hard drive controllers do it shuts off for a few seconds and turns back on, then it turns off and back on over and over agin. it might be im not using the psu identification pin but i don't know what to do with it.
but i cant get it to turn on and stay on like the first time. im gonna play around with it some more see what i can get.
today my heatasinks should come, maby it dose not like the fact i only got one cpu in it atm.
***EDIT***
****... I THINK ITS THE GPU, i swapped my 7900gs with a ati x300 and its booting up agin.


----------



## TK421

Single 40mm fan sealed to pull hot air through large heatsink for vram, another 40mm fan blowing freeflow on a smaller heatsink over the mosfet area. Attached to backplate with thermal pads.


----------



## Jimbags

You ghetto rigged a TITAN-X?!


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> You ghetto rigged a TITAN-X?!


couldn't be arsed to build a custom loop or an EK/AQ backplate since it's not on amazon.

EVGA all-in-one cooler is coming sometime this month which will make it look even more ghetto


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> couldn't be arsed to build a custom loop or an EK/AQ backplate since it's not on amazon.
> 
> EVGA all-in-one cooler is coming sometime this month which will make it look even more ghetto


Haha over $1000 on a gpu, and ghetto rigged. Love it. Anything for that extra little bit of performance hey?


----------



## Sycksyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> You ghetto rigged a TITAN-X?!


I don't know whether to laugh, or rest my forehead on my desk and cry.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sycksyde*
> 
> I don't know whether to laugh, or rest my forehead on my desk and cry.


My feelings exactly haha


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I'm all for performance over looks but I couldn't take 1k of card and do that...I say that probably only because I cannot afford the 1k card but you know...


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Single 40mm fan sealed to pull hot air through large heatsink for vram, another 40mm fan blowing freeflow on a smaller heatsink over the mosfet area. Attached to backplate with thermal pads.


same model of fan i used on my subwoofer


----------



## RockeyDA

also updating on my last post... i wanted to try diffrent power supply to see if that was the problem to i took the atx power connector off of my dell xps and made a better adapter.


and as it turns out it was my power supply some how. because now it works with any low wattage gpu and i can use both possessors no problem. but becase i went from a 650W to a 400W and its my 3rd highest wattege psu i kinda cant use my 480 on this rig like i hoped... and if i buy a power supply i don't want a cheep one thats gonna break. the xps psu was a nice option becase its reliable, can push the 480 with a hard overclock no problem, and i was gonna build a case around its strange shape. oh and it had a nice set of connectors that made me need less adapters.
 and yes the cpu connector has 10 pins(5=12v 5=GND)
and a part i find more strange aobut this was i had used my xps psu to run other non dell motherboards no problem.

and untill my heatsinks come on monday im running the server like this, 2 heat sinks, one not even with a fan, no thermal paste. there 60w cpus and i have only 1 core enabled. under full load after a bit i hit 70c on the one with no fan.


also for fun i tried running one with no heatsink and had one finger on the cpu and one finger on the powercord... my hand conducted enough heat to keep the cpu cool.(only tested with bios thermal monitor so no load) if i left my hand off of it, it got kinda hot after 60 seconds but defenly under 80c, im honestly impressed, if i did this with my 2.8ghz Pentium d the safety shut down would trigger within 10 seconds from a cold start.

still upset about psu. total plan killer.


----------



## Zyro71

Until i get my new case. Meet the shoebox PC



Yes, thats Poorman's eyefinity. Doesn't work so well in this setup. I just wanted to see if it would actually work

The actual PC, its just my 7850K with a different motherboard inside that box until i get a new case and power supply.

Amazingly enough airflow isn't half bad.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> same model of fan i used on my subwoofer


What a coincidence! Do you have the 15k rpm or the 12k rpm like I do?

I picked these fans over the noctua 40mm since they can do so much more, plus they're server rated so the durability should be high.

Currently I set at 5000rpm and they move a lot of air while staying silent, static pressure through heatsink is quite strong for a 40mm fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Haha over $1000 on a gpu, and ghetto rigged. Love it. Anything for that extra little bit of performance hey?


If anything I would say that it got me 5mhz more vram overclock lol

Gotta see if I can overclock the memory more if I get the hybrid cooler, since the heat isn't being shared between the GPU and vram/vrm.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> What a coincidence! Do you have the 15k rpm or the 12k rpm like I do?
> 
> I picked these fans over the noctua 40mm since they can do so much more, plus they're server rated so the durability should be high.
> 
> Currently I set at 5000rpm and they move a lot of air while staying silent, static pressure through heatsink is quite strong for a 40mm fan.
> If anything I would say that it got me 5mhz more vram overclock lol
> 
> Gotta see if I can overclock the memory more if I get the hybrid cooler, since the heat isn't being shared between the GPU and vram/vrm.


i picked the fans because they were the quietest ones i found in the dumpster. i was in a dumpster ripping fans out of scraped blade servers.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

As long as your 650W power supply can output 12V stable, you should be able to use it just to power your graphics cards. Grab a 12V relay out of a junk car and wire it up to the green and ground on the 650W, and connect the other two plugs to the 12V and ground on the 400W.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Wireless router overheats.




Laptop fan too loud so cut the groundand taped on a resistor.




The BIOS don't like the resistor mod. Tried to improve airflow.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> As long as your 650W power supply can output 12V stable, you should be able to use it just to power your graphics cards. Grab a 12V relay out of a junk car and wire it up to the green and ground on the 650W, and connect the other two plugs to the 12V and ground on the 400W.


i did that once, the pc power supply failed and the gpu power supply kept running completely destroying the 9800gtx connected to it. if i merge there remote lines will both powersupplys be forced on and off at same time? because i dont wanna kill my 480 the same way.


----------



## RockeyDA

so i got my heat sinks for my motherboard, they say they were passive and rated for 130w cpu's TOTAL BS, they overheat on my 60w l5506's. about 10min on a max load and i go critical(85c).


so i wanted something quick and easy to cool both cups properly without glue or duct tape, and then it hit me... this kinda looks like a gtx 580 cooler, so i grabbed my dead 560 ti boost and snaped some metal off and used some pliers and ripped out some screw mounts and just slid it over the cpu's i connected the fan up to cpu getting heat from the other cpu on top of poor airflow.



if i could find 2 smaller blower fans i would like to put them in between the coolers and cut some sheets of fiberglass to direct air flow... also the hp has a strange fan curve, fan on like 40% untill 75c, by 76c its like 70% and i never got hotter than that.... and the well covered cpu runs at 40c

also this pc has a floppy connector but no IDE so i cant run a dvd drive up to it, i have scsi disk drives but there cd only. this problem has resulted in me using a copy of mint on a flash drive. so if any one needs a cpu burner
"su root"
"apt-get install stress" then for me i do
"stress --cpu 8" also i would look into adding a repository for i-nex, its like cpu-z for Linux.
****EDIT***
i brought those numbers closer together with some small adjustments, now CPU 0 maxes out at 73c and CPU 1 maxes out at 66c. yeah, helping air flow did not drop temp of cpu 0 much becase fan slows down more, guess hp likes to run cpus hot... no fan curve in bios either.


----------



## 0493mike

Now thats cool. Good idea RockeyDA.


----------



## Nukemaster

Nice mod.

Those passive heatsinks are only "passive" in servers with fans in the front that actually force all that air into them anyway(air guides and all).

Either way, Awesome mod,


----------



## Powerg4

Yeah cool mod!









About the power supply problems, I agree with the idea from xxpenguinxx, maybe you could get another small power supply and use it just for the graphics cards if you connect the coil of the relay to one supply and the contacts to the other, and you can get a small 12v relay for about $5 from most electronics shops or a car one would be fine!

I doubt that the failure of one supply while the other one kept running caused the graphics card to fail because the dedicated gpu supply continued to run, rather it sounds like the main computer supply probably fluctuated (voltage spike) and took out the gpu through the pcie slot.









I had a dual supply set up at one stage with the relay trick, you can run pretty much everything you want which is awesome, especially when you have 10+ hard drives spinning up at once, sounds like a plane taking off when you go to start it!









If you do try this remember to place a small diode across the coil of the relay, the reason for this is that when the relay is turned off as the magnetic field breaks down across the coil you can get a fly back current which is capable of destroying sensitive electronic components.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

I did a double power supply rig too ^^ I alredy posted my pictures a while ago *HERE*, just a quick recap


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so i got my heat sinks for my motherboard, they say they were passive and rated for 130w cpu's TOTAL BS, they overheat on my 60w l5506's. about 10min on a max load and i go critical(85c).
> 
> 
> so i wanted something quick and easy to cool both cups properly without glue or duct tape, and then it hit me... this kinda looks like a gtx 580 cooler, so i grabbed my dead 560 ti boost and snaped some metal off and used some pliers and ripped out some screw mounts and just slid it over the cpu's i connected the fan up to cpu getting heat from the other cpu on top of poor airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> if i could find 2 smaller blower fans i would like to put them in between the coolers and cut some sheets of fiberglass to direct air flow... also the hp has a strange fan curve, fan on like 40% untill 75c, by 76c its like 70% and i never got hotter than that.... and the well covered cpu runs at 40c
> 
> also this pc has a floppy connector but no IDE so i cant run a dvd drive up to it, i have scsi disk drives but there cd only. this problem has resulted in me using a copy of mint on a flash drive. so if any one needs a cpu burner
> "su root"
> "apt-get install stress" then for me i do
> "stress --cpu 8" also i would look into adding a repository for i-nex, its like cpu-z for Linux.
> ****EDIT***
> i brought those numbers closer together with some small adjustments, now CPU 0 maxes out at 73c and CPU 1 maxes out at 66c. yeah, helping air flow did not drop temp of cpu 0 much becase fan slows down more, guess hp likes to run cpus hot... no fan curve in bios either.


Yo, would you mind sending me that 650ti shroud?

I have some use of it mounting it in the back of my Titan X


----------



## RockeyDA

so i decided to give it a try, so i did a little this


brought back out the air craft carrier's nuclear reactor


purposely tried making the first psu fail, the second one was shutting off with it!








also i tought the 480 was shurly gonna be dead now from sitting arround (heat gunning/ baking normally only worked for a few days,) but i guss last time when i baked the ***** out of the card to the point the thermal paste tuned gold, guss its fixed for good, no complaints here!


and i test everything is a ok with some awsome web gl


now i got to get some wood and start planning out the case, i will drawl up some my ideas in a lil bit for you guys.


----------



## RockeyDA

ok, time for basic concept art, it will be close to this, and i will be using drywall screws in many places so i can easily remove and move many parts, Like hard drive bays. you guys should be able to figure out what the parts are since you have seen the real setup.


since im gonna be carrying this pc around alot im gonna want the ports facing me for easy access,and i dont have to worry as much about power cord length from having my pc reversed. its both convenient inside the case and how im gonna use the computer to have the powersupplys on the other side.


for looks and reliability i plan on abandoning the plastic shell from the 660 and cutting up pieces from a huge sheet of scrap fiberglass i have and making a new housing for the fan that pulls air in from one spot, runs it across both cpus, and makes it exit in one spot. on the intake end for all of them i plan on building small removable wooden boxes around vents/fans that will have a layer of light foam that will serve as a easy to clean air filter.


i have not planned the expansion slots out, since its gonna have a hot GPU im considering dremmeling the metal back out of another case. if not its just gonna be some slits i carve out and keep a eye on, not to hard with it being in front of me, but i will decide what will work best when i got some of the case built.

also i know the xps power supply is gonna flow air in opposite direction, but its not gonna exchange any air with the case. also forgot to drawl vents on the intake of the xps powesupply but they will be there, and this thing has never gotten dusty some how so im not putting a filter on it.


----------



## Lobsterman

My AX750 PSU decided to die last Friday so I decided to strip my system out of my 600T and give it a good clean whilst waiting for the new PSU, and found a suitabley sized cardboard box to put my bits in. Custom cutouts for the IO backplate, gfx + soundcard slots








Not that ghetto really compared to others in this thread.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

If you use card board box as case then more power to you.


----------



## Zyro71

The power of cardboard compels thee.

But no really, I understand myself.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Not ghetto, but it's pretty cool I think.




Also, I improved the flow rate on my MCW82.


----------



## Nukemaster

Interesting fan stack.

Does it improve airflow or pressure?


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Not ghetto, but it's pretty cool I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I improved the flow rate on my MCW82.


made me immediately think of this




Spoiler: Video


----------



## doyll

The gaps between them will neutralize and possible pressure increase.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The gaps between them will neutralize and possible pressure increase.


When all 3 are turned on the amount of air going out the sides is minimal.

I can always wrap A4 paper around it lol.

Also, I found like 5 80mm Deltas. I'm getting a Corsair 240 soon, and I might use all the 80mm Deltas along with my 48W 120mm Deltas to see what happens lol. I might be able to use a passive 1U heatsink on an OCed G3258.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

So I pulled a bunch of VRM modules out of these Dell 2550 / 2650s that were being thrown out. I looked up the controller and these are pretty much made exact to Intel spec. They have VID options from 1.1V to 1.85V. I have a 9800GT with a fried VRM controller. I'm curious if the chip and memory are still good. I'll try rigging one of these to it and see if I can get it to boot.

Pics, Front to back:



EDIT: Just finished mapping out the basic circuit and VIDs.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The gaps between them will neutralize and possible pressure increase.


If there was no gap between the fans, would there be any pressure increase?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> If there was no gap between the fans, would there be any pressure increase?


In theory, yes. The overall airflow is the same unless there is resistance. then the increased pressure overcomes more resistance.
There is a pressure differential between the intake and exhaust of the fan. intake sucks / lowers the pressure and exhaust pushes / increases the pressure. Each additional fan does the same, but as each fan is increasing the pressure, more fans mean more pressure .. in theory. If for example 1 fan has a static pressure rating of 1.0mmh20, then 2nd fan has that 1.0mm h2o added pressure to start with. Honestly, very little difference with normal fans, but with turbo-chargers and blowers like used on hi-performance engines stacking them does make a significant difference.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> Mine is not as ghetto as any on here, but here it is. A fan to cool my top GPU better, just wedged into the power cables to hold it in place. Works really good though!


Considering how much money you put into your system, if say what you did is pretty ghetto, but I think I'm going to copy you


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robitdolan*
> 
> Don't know if this qualifies as ghetto, but I'll still post it.
> I sticked this Zalman CNPS5X CPU cooler to this old ATI Radeon HD 4870 of mine. I used old PCI slot covers for fastening.
> 
> The temps changed dramatically. Idle went from about 63c to 49c and load went from 90c to about 60c. Keep in mind that the power consumption of this card is over 200w so the temps are quite good.
> 
> Even if the card doesn't have any support apart from the screws, it doesn't sag much. The cooler is rather lightweight.
> 
> In Furmark the cards over temp protection LED lights up and screen goes black. Core temp doesn't go far, so I suppose it's the vram of voltage regulators. One vram chip is missing a heatsink so it can be it. However it doesn't crash in any game or other program, so I don't lose sleep over it.
> I didn't have thermal adhesive so I used 50/50 mix of epoxy and thermal paste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seems to be working.


Omg omg omg omg


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> When all 3 are turned on the amount of air going out the sides is minimal.
> 
> I can always wrap A4 paper around it lol.
> 
> Also, I found like 5 80mm Deltas. I'm getting a Corsair 240 soon, and I might use all the 80mm Deltas along with my 48W 120mm Deltas to see what happens lol. I might be able to use a passive 1U heatsink on an OCed G3258.


When is your next crazy mod?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Go microwave the popcorn.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Go microwave the popcorn.


http://hackedgadgets.com/2008/05/31/crazy-pc-case-mods/

How about this?


----------



## 0493mike

Thumbs up. And loven it. Now that gets the old brain jucies flowing.


----------



## cdoublejj

76C max temp after running games like shadow of morodor (800x600), gta IV, Skyrim, and sleeping dogs


----------



## Unknownm

80mm fan for blowing out extra heat. zip ties work amazing


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 80mm fan for blowing out extra heat. zip ties work amazing


As we've learned from the Japanese, you can keep an entire car held together with nothing more than zipties


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> As we've learned from the Japanese, you can keep an entire car held together with nothing more than zipties


and soon we will be printing them on 3D printers
https://localmotors.com/3d-printed-car/


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 76C max temp after running games like shadow of morodor (800x600), gta IV, Skyrim, and sleeping dogs


omg i think we have the same gpu in the same dell








that's what my xfx 630 looks like with outer shell off.... if my fans ever give out i plan on putting a 7900 gt oem heatsink on er.
but yeah, are you running a optiplex gx620 by any chance? and a gt630?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> omg i think we have the same gpu in the same dell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's what my xfx 630 looks like with outer shell off.... if my fans ever give out i plan on putting a 7900 gt oem heatsink on er.
> but yeah, are you running a optiplex gx620 by any chance? and a gt630?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1300645/official-usff-sff-club/1570#post_23998485

http://www.overclock.net/t/1300645/official-usff-sff-club/1560#post_23993235


----------



## boneskid1

so how do you have everything wired up on that Optiplex 755, I have a couple and I running at least one as a TV gaming machine since it is so small.
i assume you are running the HardDrive off of the Esata port, but how is the smaller fan in the bottom wired up? and do you have the fan on the HardDrive caddy pluged in?
Also what model quad did you score?
any help is appreciated,
Thanks


----------



## cdoublejj

there was a weird little connector that isn't used on my model, cut it off and used the red and black wires that when to the connector. i have detachable 3 pin connector on there. the most crucial part is the slot i cut in the side panel chassis and PSU, the psu temps were cut in half. i also have some sata multiplers and sata to molex adapters or was it molex to sata. i had t create extra sata power adapter for 3 drives.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1300645/official-usff-sff-club/1570#post_23998485
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1300645/official-usff-sff-club/1560#post_23993235


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1300645/official-usff-sff-club/1570#post_23998485
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1300645/official-usff-sff-club/1560#post_23993235


WOW, this quite a impresive little beast.
i got a gt630 with 4gb of ram(so i can have compatibility with xp32 and a direct x 10 mod for xp) and a pentum D950.
i got enough to max out gmod and play BLR on close to minim 30fps. but i would imagen a 750 is probably about as powerful as my 480 and that maxes out blr.

so is that a portable rig or do you keep it at home? whole reason i got mine was it was in a pile of computers they were throwing out at school, had pci-e and could fit in laptop slot of my backpack, made a nice light weight ok gaming rig for air plain travel to Cincinnati. like 2 years ago i spent 60$ on the gt630, everything else i already had. considering geting a D965 since i can find them for like 25$ now.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> there was a weird little connector that isn't used on my model, cut it off and used the red and black wires that when to the connector. i have detachable 3 pin connector on there. the most crucial part is the slot i cut in the side panel chassis and PSU, the psu temps were cut in half. i also have some sata multiplers and sata to molex adapters or was it molex to sata. i had t create extra sata power adapter for 3 drives.


I do got a Optiplex 755... but it sucks, no expension slots of any kind, no floppy drive support, for some reson line in and mic are same port, and power supply is external. only thing good of it is the fact its a nwer revision of 775 that supports newer cpu's. all in all, i never use it unless im fixing a mac for some one and i need a pc to run mac os on.(this is only pc i ever got iboot to work right on sadly)


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> WOW, this quite a impresive little beast.
> i got a gt630 with 4gb of ram(so i can have compatibility with xp32 and a direct x 10 mod for xp) and a pentum D950.
> i got enough to max out gmod and play BLR on close to minim 30fps. but i would imagen a 750 is probably about as powerful as my 480 and that maxes out blr.
> 
> so is that a portable rig or do you keep it at home? whole reason i got mine was it was in a pile of computers they were throwing out at school, had pci-e and could fit in laptop slot of my backpack, made a nice light weight ok gaming rig for air plain travel to Cincinnati. like 2 years ago i spent 60$ on the gt630, everything else i already had. considering geting a D965 since i can find them for like 25$ now.


i bought a 65 watt "S" version core 2 quad for like $30 usd from ebay from china. same wattage as old dual core air slots keeps PSU reliable and happy. I have it hooked to TV and i take it places. i have the latest bios for quad support.. 4gb of ddr2 800.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I tried using one of those VRM modules on the dead GPU. The VRM works, but there's a short someone on the GPU itself so I couldn't get it to power up while connected. Oh well.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> i bought a 65 watt "S" version core 2 quad for like $30 usd from ebay from china. same wattage as old dual core air slots keeps PSU reliable and happy. I have it hooked to TV and i take it places. i have the latest bios for quad support.. 4gb of ddr2 800.


thats probably my problem with having crappy desktop hardware, as far as motherboards go im only willing to pay for server hardware unless the deal is just something i cant pass up..


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats probably my problem with having crappy desktop hardware, as far as motherboards go im only willing to pay for server hardware unless the deal is just something i cant pass up..


You can't say you have crappy desktop hardware, you have a damn SR-2.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> You can't say you have crappy desktop hardware, you have a damn SR-2.


that's workstation hardware and since it running xeon possessors i call that server grade.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats probably my problem with having crappy desktop hardware, as far as motherboards go im only willing to pay for server hardware unless the deal is just something i cant pass up..


strong wolfdale dual core might help.


----------



## TK421

Do I win the ghetto of the year award?

Removed the front shroud of the Titan X to place a 40mm fan cooling the fins inside, the fins are connected to vram and vrm on the gpu metal plate.

I put some cheap aluminum heatsinks with crap thermal pads (not sure if thermal pad or not), but it should conduct heat in some way and help in dispersing the heat.

Oh and I also have the front metal plate thing, I guess I'll stick it to the backplate with thermal pads later since that will improve heat dissipation on the back too.


----------



## snipekill2445

Wish I had the money to just casually ghetto a card like that


----------



## newbies

These are pretty awesome. I wish I had pictures of my old pink rubbermaid box computer.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> strong wolfdale dual core might help.


well i dont count that mini dell as a pc because no expansion slots. and excluding my 2 server boards the best cpu supported by any pc i have is a D965. good ole codename presler, after pentium d i went straight to xeons and are not familiar with thoes core2 v pros and i7's since i have never had compatible hardware. dont know there code names, models, or new abilities. i still wonder whats the "i" for, when i first herd about it i thought intel was making special possessors for apple. i gues there never gonna be a Pentium V or !!!!! or 5.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> well i dont count that mini dell as a pc because no expansion slots. and excluding my 2 server boards the best cpu supported by any pc i have is a D965. good ole codename presler, after pentium d i went straight to xeons and are not familiar with thoes core2 v pros and i7's since i have never had compatible hardware. dont know there code names, models, or new abilities. i still wonder whats the "i" for, when i first herd about it i thought intel was making special possessors for apple. i gues there never gonna be a Pentium V or !!!!! or 5.


Theyve continued making pentiums every generation so far theyre just not called pentium 5







Theres also the G3258 Anniversary edition unlocked Pentium..


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Theyve continued making pentiums every generation so far theyre just not called pentium 5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theres also the G3258 Anniversary edition unlocked Pentium..


"unlocked Pentium" what the hell dose that mean? also thats a confusing looking model. defently like the xeon numbering system better feels more like nvidia's with the X being like GTX L bing like GT, 56 being the generation, and the 90 being how high end it is.

also looked up data sheet on cpu... WHAT? 3mb of cache? im used to 2 or 4 and agin WHAT? Graphics Base Freq? dose this cpu do something to help out your gpu or something? if so i feel like thats a unnecessary waste of heat, unless it works really well or something, what ever it is im suspicious, i mean look how bad intel onborad graphics were, you would of been lucky to watch a youtube video on those things.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> "unlocked Pentium" what the hell dose that mean? also thats a confusing looking model. defently like the xeon numbering system better feels more like nvidia's with the X being like GTX L bing like GT, 56 being the generation, and the 90 being how high end it is.
> 
> also looked up data sheet on cpu... WHAT? 3mb of cache? im used to 2 or 4 and agin WHAT? Graphics Base Freq? dose this cpu do something to help out your gpu or something? if so i feel like thats a unnecessary waste of heat, unless it works really well or something, what ever it is im suspicious, i mean look how bad intel onborad graphics were, you would of been lucky to watch a youtube video on those things.


Haha you really havent seen cpu specs in a while hey?
Sandybridge, Ivybridge and Haswell all have pentium chips. It goes architecture= sandybridge for example then specs get higher i this oreder>

Celeron eg G555 low mainstream socket 1155. 1core/ 2 threads

Pentium eg G870 mainstream socket 1155. 2cores/2 threads

core i3 eg i3 2120 mainstream socket 1155. 2 cores/4threads

core i5 eg i5 2500k performance k= unlocked multiplier. socket 1155. 4 cores/4 threads

core i7 eg 2700k performance k.. socket 1155. 4 cores/8 threads

core i7 3970x extrem high end 6 cores/12threads hyperthreaded also unlocked multi.. socket LGA 2011

I used Sandybridge architecture as an example but theyre all similar now. I tried to list the highest rated cpu for each type ie i7 2700k. Xeon is also in there they are usually an i7 with different things activated etc or in a league of their own, eg the new 16 core 32 thread xeons.
Yes they also have intergrated gpu, well most of them, it gets higher in correlation with how high performance the chip is. Intel graphics are alot better no. The newest Intel igpu's can easliy game.
Sorry its rough, but thats roughly how it works now.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Haha you really havent seen cpu specs in a while hey?
> Sandybridge, Ivybridge and Haswell all have pentium chips. It goes architecture= sandybridge for example then specs get higher i this oreder>
> 
> Celeron eg G555 low mainstream socket 1155. 1core/ 2 threads
> 
> Pentium eg G870 mainstream socket 1155. 2cores/2 threads
> 
> core i3 eg i3 2120 mainstream socket 1155. 2 cores/4threads
> 
> core i5 eg i5 2500k performance k= unlocked multiplier. socket 1155. 4 cores/4 threads
> 
> core i7 eg 2700k performance k.. socket 1155. 4 cores/8 threads
> 
> core i7 3970x extrem high end 6 cores/12threads hyperthreaded also unlocked multi.. socket LGA 2011
> 
> I used Sandybridge architecture as an example but theyre all similar now. I tried to list the highest rated cpu for each type ie i7 2700k. Xeon is also in there they are usually an i7 with different things activated etc or in a league of their own, eg the new 16 core 32 thread xeons.
> Yes they also have intergrated gpu, well most of them, it gets higher in correlation with how high performance the chip is. Intel graphics are alot better no. The newest Intel igpu's can easliy game.
> Sorry its rough, but thats roughly how it works now.


how dose the graphics on the cpu work? do you have to have a compatible chipset and onbord video or something? and my xeons are westmere and they are free of graphics specs. also the only motherboards i have ever owned with onbord video were low end gateways and dells, even high end dell expected you to have a gpu. also can this intel cpu graphics be used as physx card?... ****, I JUST RELISED, I GOT SOMETHING LIKE THIS! i got a horrible gateway(btw i killed the bios on it) and it had a 2.8ghz amd phenom in it, it said my cpu had graphics on it and it only workd with onbord video, it was really good for onbord but still crushed by the 7900gt, but was enough to play halo. and halo is my main lan party game. but i avoid amd like the plaig and only reason i got this one was one of my firedns gave it to me after getting a msi board that overclocked. never had a cpu to try and swap out or another amd bord to play around with.

also whats the point of having a unlocked multiplier? you can under clock? i assume that because i can change my multiplier, mines unlocked but it only goes down. i know to get my clocks up i gotta change the QPI thing(dont tweek my clocks often.)


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> how dose the graphics on the cpu work? do you have to have a compatible chipset and onbord video or something? and my xeons are westmere and they are free of graphics specs. also the only motherboards i have ever owned with onbord video were low end gateways and dells, even high end dell expected you to have a gpu. also can this intel cpu graphics be used as physx card?... ****, I JUST RELISED, I GOT SOMETHING LIKE THIS! i got a horrible gateway(btw i killed the bios on it) and it had a 2.8ghz amd phenom in it, it said my cpu had graphics on it and it only workd with onbord video, it was really good for onbord but still crushed by the 7900gt, but was enough to play halo. and halo is my main lan party game. but i avoid amd like the plaig and only reason i got this one was one of my firedns gave it to me after getting a msi board that overclocked. never had a cpu to try and swap out or another amd bord to play around with.
> 
> also whats the point of having a unlocked multiplier? you can under clock?


Well modern iGPU is on the cpu chip itself, so it changes spec depending on the cpu. No it doesnt support physx, i think nvidia cards only do that. iGpu is stil not as good as a higher end dedicated GPU, but plenty for older games and some newer ones at low settings. For example the HD 4000 GPU on my Intel i5 3570k is slightly better then an nvidia GT 520 at low or medium settings.

Check this out



Personally I prefer dedicted gpu so the cpu isnt getting hammered by evrything, but iGPU can be good for general use and as a backup.


----------



## NexusRed

- Be me.
- At the GF's fams house.
- Sunday dinner with lots of good food.
- GF's bro has a nice gaming rig.
- 2600K, GTX 970, Antec Khuler 1250, etc.
- Temps are crap. Sitting at 60c on idle.
- LED on khuler is red.
- ohshizzle!.png
- Do all the troubleshooting (remount, new tim, clear airflow, etc).
- Pump on Khuler is shot.
- I have a spare CM 212 evo at the house.
- www.DriveLikeAMadManBackToTheHouse.ca
- Get the stuff and bomb it back.
- Install212EvoLikeABoss.mp3
- Temps are as they should be during gaming and idle.
- Bro wants to do push pull.
- Only have brackets for one fan.
- Running IdeaProgram.exe and searching for ghetto-rigging.zip
- Found zip. Extract file and double clicked AWWWYEAAA.msi


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> - Be me.
> - At the GF's fams house.
> - Sunday dinner with lots of good food.
> - GF's bro has a nice gaming rig.
> - 2600K, GTX 970, Antec Khuler 1250, etc.
> - Temps are crap. Sitting at 60c on idle.
> - LED on khuler is red.
> - ohshizzle!.png
> - Do all the troubleshooting (remount, new tim, clear airflow, etc).
> - Pump on Khuler is shot.
> - I have a spare CM 212 evo at the house.
> - www.DriveLikeAMadManBackToTheHouse.ca
> - Get the stuff and bomb it back.
> - Install212EvoLikeABoss.mp3
> - Temps are as they should be during gaming and idle.
> - Bro wants to do push pull.
> - Only have brackets for one fan.
> - Running IdeaProgram.exe and searching for ghetto-rigging.zip
> - File found. Extract file and double clicked AWWWYEAAA.exe


You don't need rubber bands (which degrade with time and especially so in temperature) when you got some twine and a midshipman's hitch: http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/midshipmans-hitch
Tie it reversed and you get ziptie functionality.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Well modern iGPU is on the cpu chip itself, so it changes spec depending on the cpu. No it doesnt support physx, i think nvidia cards only do that. iGpu is stil not as good as a higher end dedicated GPU, but plenty for older games and some newer ones at low settings. For example the HD 4000 GPU on my Intel i5 3570k is slightly better then an nvidia GT 520 at low or medium settings.
> 
> Check this out
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I prefer dedicted gpu so the cpu isnt getting hammered by evrything, but iGPU can be good for general use and as a backup.


do dose disabling the on chip graphics increase cpu performance? and still whats the point of a unlocked multiplier? and like i said is it just for under clocking or something?


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> do dose disabling the on chip graphics increase cpu performance? and still whats the point of a unlocked multiplier? and like i said is it just for under clocking or something?


Having it enabled helps take load off the cpu, granted if you use Intel QuickSync in OBS. The only thing I think you will see is higher CPU temps because iGPU under load


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Having it enabled helps take load off the cpu, granted if you use Intel QuickSync in OBS. The only thing I think you will see is higher CPU temps because iGPU under load


ok now what about the unlocked multiplyer thing, whats that all about, am i right on it?


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> do dose disabling the on chip graphics increase cpu performance? and still whats the point of a unlocked multiplier? and like i said is it just for under clocking or something?


Well no more overclocking via the FSB its now a ring bus and is linked to the pci so overclocking it overclocks them too. In turn causes instabilty going anything more than 1 or 2mhz. Therefore most overclocking is done by the multiplier. K and X series chips are the only unlocked ones, oh and the anniversary edition pentium  Eveything else barely overclocks. On top of that only certaian motherboard chipsets will overclock.


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You don't need rubber bands (which degrade with time and especially so in temperature) when you got some twine and a midshipman's hitch: http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/midshipmans-hitch
> Tie it reversed and you get ziptie functionality.


Thanks for ruining my first ghetto shenanigans post bro. It's a pinch fix and rubber bands are like a $1 for a thousand. No gonna buy a roll of twine and do some convoluted witch craft just to add a second fan onto a $30 cooler that's only going to be on until he A) gets a new AIO or B) goes to full water cooling.


----------



## 0493mike

Thats a good ghetto fix if ever I saw one. I mean half the time its just a temp fix anyways or just some crazy idea you want to try out.
I say good job sir.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Well no more overclocking via the FSB its now a ring bus and is linked to the pci so overclocking it overclocks them too. In turn causes instabilty going anything more than 1 or 2mhz. Therefore most overclocking is done by the multiplier. K and X series chips are the only unlocked ones, oh and the anniversary edition pentium  Eveything else barely overclocks. On top of that only certaian motherboard chipsets will overclock.


is this also a new thing, because i can only move my multiplier down but i can overclock no problem.

so is this something thats not supposed to work on newer motherboards or what? and i would assume my cip is locked then because my highest multiplier is 26, and it automatically switches to 27 on rare occasions of turbo boost is enabled.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> is this also a new thing, because i can only move my multiplier down but i can overclock no problem.
> 
> so is this something thats not supposed to work on newer motherboards or what? and i would assume my cip is locked then because my highest multiplier is 26, and it automatically switches to 27 on rare occasions of turbo boost is enabled.


Which cpu and chipset(mobo) is this?


----------



## koekwau5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Which cpu and chipset(mobo) is this?


By the color and text I would say a Gigabyte motherboard.
And cuz I see the word QPI it must be a X59 chipset.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koekwau5*
> 
> By the color and text I would say a Gigabyte motherboard.
> And cuz I see the word QPI it must be a X59 chipset.


I was thinking that so it might be his SR-2. X58*
I think thats your bus speed. You multiply that number by your multi and thats your cpu clock speed. Ithink you can change the multi you just might be as high as it goes. Most of your overclocking will be done via the bus.Little bit more old school but more fun tryin different bus speed/multi combos.


----------



## koekwau5

Typo X59 --> X58 indeed.

Could also be the SR2 like you mentioned. Same BIOS as the Gigabyte X58 boards:
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/evga_classified_sr_2_review_with_quad_sli_gtx_480_on_ln2,5.html


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Which cpu and chipset(mobo) is this?


its 2 xeon x5690's
classified sr-2 with a intel 5520 chipset


----------



## RockeyDA

so i was runing a windows repair on this retarted os.






ok seems legit, i need my power TO RUN THE FREAKEN OS!


----------



## doyll

LOL









Classic "Catch 22"


----------



## Duality92

It's incase you have a laptop... Since W8.1 is made for touchscreens.


----------



## hartofwave

XD Just in case you are useing cloud based power.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> Thanks for ruining my first ghetto shenanigans post bro. It's a pinch fix and rubber bands are like a $1 for a thousand. No gonna buy a roll of twine and do some convoluted witch craft just to add a second fan onto a $30 cooler that's only going to be on until he A) gets a new AIO or B) goes to full water cooling.


Sorry, man, didn't mean to be offensive. I probably have too many knots in my head.

Speaking of knots:
- Hey, my mobo has a built-in amp! I wonder if it can drive a couple monitors&#8230;









Had some paracord lying around and a pair of garbage earbuds. Combine with some speaker wire, snippers, soldering iron and black tape.


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Sorry, man, didn't mean to be offensive. I probably have too many knots in my head.
> 
> Speaking of knots:
> - Hey, my mobo has a built-in amp! I wonder if it can drive a couple monitors&#8230;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had some paracord lying around and a pair of garbage earbuds. Combine with some speaker wire, snippers, soldering iron and black tape.


No worries man. Just re-read my response. I came off as a tool. I apologies as well. Let's bro hug, have a virtual pint of beer!


----------



## Duality92

And this is why I love being Canadian.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> is this also a new thing, because i can only move my multiplier down but i can overclock no problem.
> so is this something thats not supposed to work on newer motherboards or what? and i would assume my cip is locked then because my highest multiplier is 26, and it automatically switches to 27 on rare occasions of turbo boost is enabled.


Overclocking will depend on your motherboard/chipset/cpu/bios. A lot of business class/consumer class PCs like Dell/HP/whatever don't have the ability to overclock.
I would suggest some research to learn how to overclock. Search for overclock tutorial or howto for your motherboard or chipset. It can be a lot of fun!


----------



## Asus11

pump sticking out the top, quick and dirty w/c / no panels on case

running stock intel cooler


----------



## doyll

@NexusRed & Duality92








No being able to see or hear each other on these forums sometimes makes is quite easy to miss-interpret the intent of the writer.








I think most of us have done it a time of 100.
Always good to see quick resolutions. Have another pint on me.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> It's incase you have a laptop... Since W8.1 is made for touchscreens.


i would assume if that was the case it would only show up if a battery showed up... plus its windows repair, a part the average dumb user will never see.
so im just gonna bet Microsoft had brain damage, would explane how they rekt the gui of windows 7 and 8... thank Jupiter for classic shell! now if only i could turn thoes stupid thumbnails off the task bar, get the old popup descriptions back, and make it so when i right click on a taskbar it gives me the normal options without shift+rmb. oh, and freken winflip. those changes make server 2008 and vista so much better because vista feels more like xp, and that's a good thing. and you can make vista and xp feel more like windows 98, and that's a great thing! i hate it when Microsoft drops support for a os i like, and i know server08/vista is probably only gonna be around for another year or two especially with direct x 12 bout to come out only for windows 10.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> Overclocking will depend on your motherboard/chipset/cpu/bios. A lot of business class/consumer class PCs like Dell/HP/whatever don't have the ability to overclock.
> I would suggest some research to learn how to overclock. Search for overclock tutorial or howto for your motherboard or chipset. It can be a lot of fun!


im quite familer with overclocking on motherboards that support it, and one time i pulled off overclocking a Pentium 4 on a older dell by 100mhz and it was horribly unstable but i was excited to see the speed change at all. things like dell and gatway any atempts of bios mods always ended in me with a bricked bio's... i need a eeprom programmer.
also i-nex (cpu-z for linux)could not find it, but i looked it up and hp sais my z800 has a "Chipset Intel® 5520 (Dual)" same as my sr-2. i would love to get to overclocking on this think... cant believe hp would make a workstation that cant overclock. workstation and overclock go together like cool-aid and sugar.


----------



## Farih

Old Sabertooth P67 died









To save me 3570K i got a cheap board (new good Z77 boards are to expensive nowdays)
So cheap it has a 4+2 VRM without heatsink.

So i put those heatsinks there myself and overclocked the 3570K to 4,6ghz @ 1.35V









Its running like that for 6-8 weeks or so and still going strong, dunno how long it will really last though.....


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Old Sabertooth P67 died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save me 3570K i got a cheap board (new good Z77 boards are to expensive nowdays)
> So cheap it has a 4+2 VRM without heatsink.
> 
> So i put those heatsinks there myself and overclocked the 3570K to 4,6ghz @ 1.35V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its running like that for 6-8 weeks or so and still going strong, dunno how long it will really last though.....


thats is the weirdest water cooling block i have ever seen... on here, never saw one at all in RL.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats is the weirdest water cooling block i have ever seen... on here, never saw one at all in RL.


The heatkiller 3.0 copper is actually a rather known block, at release time one of the better performing one's to.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I think it's the fitting that's making it look different.

If possible, I'd mount a fan above the VRM area to keep them nice a cool.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I think it's the fitting that's making it look different.
> 
> If possible, I'd mount a fan above the VRM area to keep them nice a cool.


Maybe, there 45 degrees angled fittings.

I have fans from the radiator blowing air in, air is slightly heated up offcourse but should still cool the VRM's.
Got nothing to test it though, they dont have sensors...... maybe the heatsinks actually made it worse, who knows lol.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I should of took pics but didn't have my camera. I went to my friends house to replace a what we though was a dying GPU, and the problem ended up being a dead fan on the CPU heatsink. It was old Antec cooler with a proprietary sized fan and a weird mounting bracket. I zip tied an 80mm fan to it and the problem was solved.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I think it's the fitting that's making it look different.
> 
> If possible, I'd mount a fan above the VRM area to keep them nice a cool.


whats a vrm?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Voltage Regulator Module. You're just cooling the transistors or mosfets, which are part of the VRM, VRM is just faster to type.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Voltage Regulator Module. You're just cooling the transistors or mosfets, which are part of the VRM, VRM is just faster to type.


apparently my fiance being an English nazi has rubbed off...I totally started to correct you on regulator but I won't


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Voltage Regulator Module. You're just cooling the transistors or mosfets, which are part of the VRM, VRM is just faster to type.


so its like a fancy precision voltage regulator?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I'm not even sure what the right word is anymore. There's too many names for the same thing...


----------



## Nukemaster

I do not know of the coils and caps actually require cooling. The board tends to use its own copper to help with cooling.

The transistors(mosfets are just another type of transistor after all) need cooling for sure(at least when pushed hard enough even with the rather high efficiency of switching regulators.).

I have been running a board with no extra cooling for years, but that cpu is not overclocked or anything.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farih*
> 
> Old Sabertooth P67 died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To save me 3570K i got a cheap board (new good Z77 boards are to expensive nowdays)
> So cheap it has a 4+2 VRM without heatsink.
> 
> So i put those heatsinks there myself and overclocked the 3570K to 4,6ghz @ 1.35V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its running like that for 6-8 weeks or so and still going strong, dunno how long it will really last though.....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I did this exact same thing to an old asrock board, not to overclock but just because, well, why not. I sold the board on OCN a while ago as well. I had aluminum heatsinks left from an arctic cooling gpu cooler that replaced the faulty stock cooler on a gigabyte 6850.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

The chokes don't need to be cooled, but putting a heatsink on them can help cool off that area on the motherboard.

I like the way these VRMs from the dell servers are cooled (these). The heatsinks are stuck onto the PCB instead of the transistors, giving it a little more surface area to pull the heat from. Too bad motherboards aren't standard when it comes to transistor placement, I would think you could get better cooling by using the motherboard tray to help cool the transistors from the back.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> The chokes don't need to be cooled, but putting a heatsink on them can help cool off that area on the motherboard.
> 
> I like the way these VRMs from the dell servers are cooled (these). The heatsinks are stuck onto the PCB instead of the transistors, giving it a little more surface area to pull the heat from. Too bad motherboards aren't standard when it comes to transistor placement, I would think you could get better cooling by using the motherboard tray to help cool the transistors from the back.


Aren't the chokes the bigger gray items next to the socket? I thought for sure i cooled the VRMs. Please look at the pic of the board before modification, i highlighted the areas I cooled.


----------



## tomytom99

So, building a G27 mount is a lot harder than I thought. Either my printer isn't printing to scale, or the reference sheet isn't 100% to scale. Either way, it still didn't have info I needed, because it wasn't to scale.

As you can see, I had to draw it all out on the board I am going to be using. Then, I have to trust my square and ruler, which has a few issues too. The square was only in inches, and the ruler had curved ends, along with the 0 mark being off of the end of it.

I'll be making it so that I can just undo four bolts, and then I can change where it's mounted on the table, or move it to a stand for the Play Station.

As you can see, it's made so that I can keep my keyboard on my desk while using the G27, and when I'm done, I can fold it under my desk, or remove it all together with minimal fuss.

After I do the cutting and mount work, I'll have to find if there's extension cables for the pedals and shifter so that I don't have to remove the wheel from the entire mount to move it. I'll also have to find some metric screws that don't cost a fortune.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> So, building a G27 mount is a lot harder than I thought. Either my printer isn't printing to scale, or the reference sheet isn't 100% to scale. Either way, it still didn't have info I needed, because it wasn't to scale.
> 
> As you can see, I had to draw it all out on the board I am going to be using. Then, I have to trust my square and ruler, which has a few issues too. The square was only in inches, and the ruler had curved ends, along with the 0 mark being off of the end of it.
> 
> I'll be making it so that I can just undo four bolts, and then I can change where it's mounted on the table, or move it to a stand for the Play Station.
> 
> As you can see, it's made so that I can keep my keyboard on my desk while using the G27, and when I'm done, I can fold it under my desk, or remove it all together with minimal fuss.
> 
> After I do the cutting and mount work, I'll have to find if there's extension cables for the pedals and shifter so that I don't have to remove the wheel from the entire mount to move it. I'll also have to find some metric screws that don't cost a fortune.


This isn't ghetto from what i am seeing, but i would like to see a build log


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Aren't the chokes the bigger gray items next to the socket? I thought for sure i cooled the VRMs. Please look at the pic of the board before modification, i highlighted the areas I cooled.


when you say choke i think choke coil, and the big gray boxes should be the choke coils.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> when you say choke i think choke coil, and the big gray boxes should be the choke coils.


That's what i thought


----------



## ccRicers

And today's ghetto PC build of the day award goes to....

(sorry if repost)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> And today's ghetto PC build of the day award goes to....
> 
> (sorry if repost)


its like that time my dad was yelling at me while i was swaping out a gpu, i got so pissed i ripped the gpu out the pci-e slot with enough force to rip the slot off the MB (mostly because i ripped it out at an angle) and i also tore the pcb like a piece of paper.


----------



## snipekill2445

I bent a few pins on my FX 8320 pulling it out a couple weeks ago, it came out with the cooler while I was removing it, spent at least an our with tweezers gently putting them back, and it actually worked, using it now


----------



## RockeyDA

*Question* its not important at all but im just curious if any one knows, back in the day server and desktop possessors had different slots and i think 771 cpud could be used in 775 with a sticker. now they thay share the same socket can you put a single xeon in a desktop MB or a single i7 in something like my sr-2? i know if its possible the desktop processors would not have the instruction for pairing up with another cpu. also i know there is a quad link socket with sucked that its only dull core cuz that sounds bad azz.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I bent a few pins on my FX 8320 pulling it out a couple weeks ago, it came out with the cooler while I was removing it, spent at least an our with tweezers gently putting them back, and it actually worked, using it now


I'll use an X-Acto knife or a razor blade that has a point, along with a hands-free magnifying glass to straighten bent pins. Line them up nicely from one side, then turn the chip 90 degrees and repeat. Keep turning until everything's nice and straight!


----------



## snipekill2445

Or just use a steady hand with a pair of tweezers and years of experience


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Or just use a steady hand with a pair of tweezers and years of experience


I used a credit card and a wire casing from an old psu


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

The one time I bent a pin, I used a tiny flat blade jeweler's screwdriver to gently nudge the pin back into place.


----------



## ccRicers

X-acto blade would work wonders. I even used it to fix a few pins on a Intel LGA 1150 socket.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

I too used a thin razor blade to straighten up some pins. 7 pins in about 35 minutes if i remember.
And as for the question about the dual desktop i7 cpu or similar, Last i heard those processors will not run in pairs like Xeons.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Or just use a steady hand with a pair of tweezers and years of experience


i grab the bord, head tho the couch, set my 1100 lumen flashlight in flood light mode on my shoulder, grab a sowing needle and go to town. same method for cartridge slots.


----------



## RockeyDA

another question, my memory says its "overclocking memory" witch would make me think it is possible to raise the memory's clock speed. but in my bios i only see the ability to switch from auto, 800mhz 1066mhz or 1300mhz. so is over clocking memory supposed to just help with the cpu over clock in some way or something? also on a side note i have no idea what to do with the timings and signal tweaks so i never touch them.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> Aren't the chokes the bigger gray items next to the socket? I thought for sure i cooled the VRMs. Please look at the pic of the board before modification, i highlighted the areas I cooled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You are cooling the right area.

By chokes I meant the larger grey boxes next them, also called coils or inductors. I was just saying putting a heatsink on the chokes could remove some heat from that area in general, but they do not need to be cooled.


----------



## RockeyDA

another question, my memory says its "overclocking memory" witch would make me think it is posibl
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> You are cooling the right area.
> 
> By chokes I meant the larger grey boxes next them, also called coils or inductors. I was just saying putting a heatsink on the chokes could remove some heat from that area in general, but they do not need to be cooled.


also if those components could run hot enough to cause damage shouldn't they already have heatsinks? i mean if the motherboard is intended for over clocking it should be assumed its parts are gonna be pushed harder.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i grab the bord, head tho the couch, set my 1100 lumen flashlight in flood light mode on my shoulder, grab a sowing needle and go to town. same method for cartridge slots.


haha nice. You can use xeons in some desktop boards now. Just all its features wont be available. Also cant no unlocked multi.. The online pc store I use sells bundles. They have Xeons with desktop motherboards advertised as gaming bundles.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> another question, my memory says its "overclocking memory" witch would make me think it is possible to raise the memory's clock speed. but in my bios i only see the ability to switch from auto, 800mhz 1066mhz or 1300mhz. so is over clocking memory supposed to just help with the cpu over clock in some way or something? also on a side note i have no idea what to do with the timings and signal tweaks so i never touch them.


To put it simply: "overclocking memory" has more 'headroom' for overclocking- better timings. Its a waste of money if your BIOS doesn't do overclocking. With Auto the BIOS will read the speed and timings from the SPD on the memory and set things to match. If you set it to '1066' you're telling BIOS to run at that speed. If you use CPU-Z, there is the SPD tab where you can see one or more columns with timing settings.

Regarding your side note- that's why I suggested earlier to search for a how-to or guide for overclocking your processor and motherboard. Then you would learn when and how to adjust those various settings.
Quote:


> ..and one time i pulled off overclocking a Pentium 4 on a older dell by 100mhz and it was horribly unstable but i was excited to see the speed change at all. things like dell and gatway any atempts of bios mods always ended in me with a bricked bio's... i need a eeprom programmer.


That's an accomplishment I'm impressed with- something I can't do and wouldn't consider doing on my current collection of Dells!


----------



## anti-clockwize

One of my rigs was like this for a bit.
the fans around it are screwed into the bits of plywood that the whole thing is sitting on (to raise it above the edge of that drawer unit to allow access to the i/o panel)
drawers were handy for the hdds & ssd








ssd hanging infront of the fan in the drawer, kinda hard to see with the lighting.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

I have to ask, how ghetto is to modify your own zipties??









Behold the colour session I did to match the color of the case (same paint)





And there they are..you see them??


----------



## snipekill2445

I've got a couple zipties holding my reservoir to the case, but it's hidden behind side panels so I can't really see them anyway


----------



## bamaredwingsfan

Thinking about building a tower out of this


----------



## ozlay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> another question, my memory says its "overclocking memory" witch would make me think it is possible to raise the memory's clock speed. but in my bios i only see the ability to switch from auto, 800mhz 1066mhz or 1300mhz. so is over clocking memory supposed to just help with the cpu over clock in some way or something? also on a side note i have no idea what to do with the timings and signal tweaks so i never touch them.


you should really ask these questions in the SR2 owners club however to answer your question with the SR2 by default the CPU supports up to 1333mhz ram however you can use higher such as 1600mhz or 1866mhz but they call it "overclocked memory" which basically it just means you are using faster ram then what was originally intended to be used with the xeons and or chipset. The faster the ram the better however you are limited to a max of around 1600 if i remember correctly unless you are overclocking the cpus.

Don't quote me on that its been a while since iv been in the sr2 bios


----------



## xxpenguinxx

RAM is RAM, some companies slap the word "Overclocking" on it to make it sound better, when really it's just RAM rated at X speed.

Your Xeons support up to 1333Mhz, to go higher, you have to set the BCLK manually. The default value is 133. You can use faster RAM, like 1866Mhz, but you have to set the BCLK to 186 and lower your CPU & Uncore multiplier.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> To put it simply: "overclocking memory" has more 'headroom' for overclocking- better timings. Its a waste of money if your BIOS doesn't do overclocking. With Auto the BIOS will read the speed and timings from the SPD on the memory and set things to match. If you set it to '1066' you're telling BIOS to run at that speed. If you use CPU-Z, there is the SPD tab where you can see one or more columns with timing settings.
> 
> Regarding your side note- that's why I suggested earlier to search for a how-to or guide for overclocking your processor and motherboard. Then you would learn when and how to adjust those various settings.
> That's an accomplishment I'm impressed with- something I can't do and wouldn't consider doing on my current collection of Dells!


yeah, im used to gpu overclocking since my sr-2 is the only motherboard i could overclock on besides some old socket 7 boards were i had to move jumpers or flip switches. also even if i set the memory speed to 1333 even the bios says 1333mhz (current 800mhz) and i never seen the memory clock go up in speccy either.. also is there something like a artifact scanner for cpu's?
on the gpu end i wait till i get artifacts then rais my voltage till they stop then move clocks up till thermal limits. on cpu end i just slightly raise the voltage if the oc is big enough and hope i dont bsod.
***EDIT***
tried to force 1333hmz, checked in both speccy and evga elite, both say 400mhz.... THATS DDR SPEEDS :C


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> you should really ask these questions in the SR2 owners club however to answer your question with the SR2 by default the CPU supports up to 1333mhz ram however you can use higher such as 1600mhz or 1866mhz but they call it "overclocked memory" which basically it just means you are using faster ram then what was originally intended to be used with the xeons and or chipset. The faster the ram the better however you are limited to a max of around 1600 if i remember correctly unless you are overclocking the cpus.
> 
> Don't quote me on that its been a while since iv been in the sr2 bios


the bios looks 90% just like a AM asus bios on my 25 year old pc


----------



## Scott1541

Not directly PC related but I made my own fan today and corsair retweeted it


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yeah, im used to gpu overclocking since my sr-2 is the only motherboard i could overclock on besides some old socket 7 boards were i had to move jumpers or flip switches. also even if i set the memory speed to 1333 even the bios says 1333mhz (current 800mhz) and i never seen the memory clock go up in speccy either.. also is there something like a artifact scanner for cpu's?
> on the gpu end i wait till i get artifacts then rais my voltage till they stop then move clocks up till thermal limits. on cpu end i just slightly raise the voltage if the oc is big enough and hope i dont bsod.
> ***EDIT***
> tried to force 1333hmz, checked in both speccy and evga elite, both say 400mhz.... THATS DDR SPEEDS :C


If your looking at ram speeds in cpuz or some others you usually double it as DDR means Double Data Ram or something like that, My pc says 800Mhz but effective speed is actually 1600Mhz.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yeah, im used to gpu overclocking since my sr-2 is the only motherboard i could overclock on besides some old socket 7 boards were i had to move jumpers or flip switches. also even if i set the memory speed to 1333 even the bios says 1333mhz (current 800mhz) and i never seen the memory clock go up in speccy either.. also is there something like a artifact scanner for cpu's?
> on the gpu end i wait till i get artifacts then rais my voltage till they stop then move clocks up till thermal limits. on cpu end i just slightly raise the voltage if the oc is big enough and hope i dont bsod.
> ***EDIT***
> tried to force 1333hmz, checked in both speccy and evga elite, both say 400mhz.... THATS DDR SPEEDS :C
> 
> 
> 
> If your looking at ram speeds in cpuz or some others you usually double it as DDR means Double Data Ram or something like that, My pc says 800Mhz but effective speed is actually 1600Mhz.
Click to expand...

Double Data Rate


----------



## Speedster159

In hopes of getting higher positive pressure and prevent junk from falling inside when the vents are open.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Double Data Rate


Thats the one








@Speedster159 I dont understand what im seeing? Whats that in the background?


----------



## Nukemaster

An image on a monitor that almost makes me think of an AF test.

That or someone has a portal to

I clicked just to try to see what it was.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> RAM is RAM, some companies slap the word "Overclocking" on it to make it sound better, when really it's just RAM rated at X speed.
> 
> Your Xeons support up to 1333Mhz, to go higher, you have to set the BCLK manually. The default value is 133. You can use faster RAM, like 1866Mhz, but you have to set the BCLK to 186 and lower your CPU & Uncore multiplier.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yeah, im used to gpu overclocking since my sr-2 is the only motherboard i could overclock on besides some old socket 7 boards were i had to move jumpers or flip switches. also even if i set the memory speed to 1333 even the bios says 1333mhz (current 800mhz) and i never seen the memory clock go up in speccy either.. also is there something like a artifact scanner for cpu's?
> on the gpu end i wait till i get artifacts then rais my voltage till they stop then move clocks up till thermal limits. on cpu end i just slightly raise the voltage if the oc is big enough and hope i dont bsod.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> If your looking at ram speeds in cpuz or some others you usually double it as DDR means Double Data Ram or something like that, My pc says 800Mhz but effective speed is actually 1600Mhz.


i wish my sr-2 user manual actually in depth covered what all my options did and had a tutorial on how to tweek all the oc settings. and if i dont know what it dose im half afraid to touch it because my cups cost to dam much, my ram cost to dam much and my motherboard cost to dam much when i got it for 450$ and its like 1000 if i can even find one now. sucks cheep motherboards don't overclock.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Double Data Rate


well dubble would be 800 witch means im not getting the 1333 i have it set to.


----------



## Mystriss

Ghetto Qualified?

I have a Halo XT PCI card but I didn't want it in my top "display" case so threw a riser on it and mounted it underneath:



The double stick tape kept unsticking from the shelf so the Halo would fall and come unplugged. Very annoying, so I cut up a Corsair 120mm fan box and made a custom Halo XT card "dock" with both cards in there:

 

(installed, I painted it black then had to circle it because you can't even see it anymore)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ghetto Qualified?
> 
> I have a Halo XT PCI card but I didn't want it in my top "display" case so threw a riser on it and mounted it underneath:
> 
> The double stick tape kept unsticking from the shelf so the Halo would fall and come unplugged. Very annoying, so I cut up a Corsair 120mm fan box and made a custom Halo XT card "dock" with both cards in there:
> 
> (installed, I painted it black then had to circle it because you can't even see it anymore)


is that a sound card? at first glance i thought it was a gpu that used bnc connectors.


----------



## Mystriss

It is indeed, PCI card with a daughter board gives me 7.1 to my Oknyo Receiver









Stock Photo:


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> It is indeed, PCI card with a daughter board gives me 7.1 to my Oknyo Receiver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stock Photo:


why don't you just use optical? (if your receiver has it of course)


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ghetto Qualified?
> 
> I have a Halo XT PCI card but I didn't want it in my top "display" case so threw a riser on it and mounted it underneath:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The double stick tape kept unsticking from the shelf so the Halo would fall and come unplugged. Very annoying, so I cut up a Corsair 120mm fan box and made a custom Halo XT card "dock" with both cards in there:
> 
> 
> 
> (installed, I painted it black then had to circle it because you can't even see it anymore)


Nice idea .. if it doesn't get too hot in there.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice idea .. if it doesn't get too hot in there.


i just use stereo but with more then enough speakers. (8 minds/tweeters 6 subs) every time i try surround it either sounds funny or with a computer music wont be sent to any speakers but front. also i never use a amp to power more than 4 speakers but usually just 2 so i have more control. so i got 6 amps in this setup. all over 2 channels, only my 8ohm sony amp supports optical so my on-bored sound works fine.


----------



## DR4G00N

I needed a vrm heatsink for my 780 Ti because I'm going to put an H75 + Kraken G10 on it.

I pulled the vrm heatsink off an old (dead) 7950 I had lying around, cut, drilled, filed & sanded and this is what came out in the end:

Perfect fit! And it looks pretty good to boot.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I needed a vrm heatsink for my 780 Ti because I'm going to put an H75 + Kraken G10 on it.
> 
> I pulled the vrm heatsink off an old (dead) 7950 I had lying around, cut, drilled, filed & sanded and this is what came out in the end:
> 
> Perfect fit! And it looks pretty good to boot.


I'm sorry but that looks much too professional to be ghetto.


----------



## Jimbags

@RockeyDA
Theres plenty of cheap intel socket 775 cpu/mobos on ebay that are cheapish..


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Thats the one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Speedster159 I dont understand what im seeing? Whats that in the background?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> An image on a monitor that almost makes me think of an AF test.
> 
> That or someone has a portal to
> 
> I clicked just to try to see what it was.


The photo is the top of my case where it's usually wide open and stuff can fall though if the vents are open.

Background is censored..


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> The photo is the top of my case where it's usually wide open and stuff can fall though if the vents are open.
> 
> Background is censored..


Censored hey?


----------



## Nukemaster

Ok, So you chopped(or painted that over the area) it out of the picture right?

Now everyone wants to know what you are hiding


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> why don't you just use optical? (if your receiver has it of course)


I put on the RCA's to split the channels out for my mod lighting. I have the optical plugged in as well so I just click a button to change the sound card output in Windows









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice idea .. if it doesn't get too hot in there.


It sits at about 30C in the box between the two cards, ambient is around 20C so it's not bad. I'd purchased a 25mm fan to put on there, but I didn't end up needing it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i just use stereo but with more then enough speakers. (8 minds/tweeters 6 subs) every time i try surround it either sounds funny or with a computer music wont be sent to any speakers but front. also i never use a amp to power more than 4 speakers but usually just 2 so i have more control. so i got 6 amps in this setup. all over 2 channels, only my 8ohm sony amp supports optical so my on-bored sound works fine.


Yea, if you're mostly playing music that's 2 channel/stereo, there's really not much point to a surround sound setup; the faux software 5.1/7.1 simulators are horrible imo. I had to upgrade my entire digital library to re-mastered surround versions, and/or rip them off [oft remastered] CD's. Almost none of my music is full 7.1 though, that's mostly for movies and gaming. I'm just a bit of an audiophile so I had to have a home theater quality setup for my rig. I'm running Boston Acoustics; 8ohm 100w sub (250w peak) and satellites.


----------



## Speedster159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Censored hey?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Ok, So you chopped(or painted that over the area) it out of the picture right?
> 
> Now everyone wants to know what you are hiding


Digital censoring and warping yeah.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Speedster159*
> 
> Digital censoring and warping yeah.


Gotta love that censoring, they censored my number plate at a track day once


----------



## OxygeenHD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Gotta love that censoring, they censored my number plate at a track day once


This japenese beauty...







I wonder how it will perform versus a Civic EG VTEC :3


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OxygeenHD*
> 
> This japenese beauty...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder how it will perform versus a Civic EG VTEC :3


Crush it, lol!! No vtec spare a NSX will touch a hawkeye STI.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I needed a vrm heatsink for my 780 Ti because I'm going to put an H75 + Kraken G10 on it.
> 
> I pulled the vrm heatsink off an old (dead) 7950 I had lying around, cut, drilled, filed & sanded and this is what came out in the end:
> 
> Perfect fit! And it looks pretty good to boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sorry but that looks much too professional to be ghetto.
Click to expand...

That is top notch work. Ghetto mod and sexy


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cravinmild*
> 
> That is top notch work. Ghetto mod and sexy


Thanks. It actually came out better than I thought it would.


----------



## -Leopold-

In these days, we have around 35 °C here, what might be a little to much for my HTPC's SilverStone Nitrogon NT07-115X.
So I've searched a bit in my spare part boxes and found one 120mm and two 80mm Fans. Simply connected to my Molex External PSU.
Ghetto enough?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I wish I had my camera today. Someone was driving in front of me who had a large piece of plexi glass & duct tape, in place of their rear window. It actually looked pretty good for what it was.


----------



## 0493mike

Question. I found an small tank that has a 360 gph pump in it with tubes coming out. They used to go to a pad and circulate around inside of it. The tank would be filled with ice and water to cool the pad which you could place on yourself like an ice pack. Weeeell here I go thinking,wow just like an water cooling system. I had to disconnet the electicronics and run it straight through because it had a thermal limit where the colder it was the slower it ran and if it got to hot it would not run at all till you put ice in.

Now I'm wondering if I can use a smaller power transformer. It has a input of 120VAC 60Hz 21w
Output 12VDC 1.0A
Does anyone have an idea if it might work with about half the output. So that it would run around half speed?

I've already got it hooked up to a car heater core and was playing around with it. Seems to go good but the transformer gets a little warm after a couple hours. Thats why I want to see if it might work with less power.


----------



## lurker2501

HDD mounting behind the mobo tray like a BOSS!


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> In these days, we have around 35 °C here, what might be a little to much for my HTPC's SilverStone Nitrogon NT07-115X.
> So I've searched a bit in my spare part boxes and found one 120mm and two 80mm Fans. Simply connected to my Molex External PSU.
> Ghetto enough?


yeah the heat wave in Europe right now SUCKS. I was in Florence for vacation and it was 101F one day. My 290x would melt here!


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> yeah the heat wave in Europe right now SUCKS. I was in Florence for vacation and it was 101F one day. My 290x would melt here!


haha heatwave at 38c. You guys ever been to Australia







hottest day personally. Summer as a kid was about a week of 48c-49c. My sister sent me a pic from where she lives using a digital thermometer under her patio. It was 53.3c. Her husband is a heavy deisel mechanic. Sometimes when working has to put spanners in a bucket of water or they burn you. Its high fiftys out in the feild doing break downs and on top of that the machinery is pumping out heat too. Usually 2 of them do 10 minutes then swap on and off. OK thats enough from me


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I bent a few pins on my FX 8320 pulling it out a couple weeks ago, it came out with the cooler while I was removing it, spent at least an our with tweezers gently putting them back, and it actually worked, using it now


I did that as well just a couple of weeks ago. Not fun.


----------



## cravinmild

43c for weeks now. Love it


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Sounds lovely. I wish people around here would stop making it 15C indoors with their AC.


----------



## snipekill2445

It's 3c here atm

Love new zealand climate


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> It's 3c here atm
> 
> Love new zealand climate


Overclock something for heat


----------



## snipekill2445

I'd say it's around 20c inside, got a little oil heater in my room, another bigger oil heater in the hallway and a log burner in the lounge

Have my 280x at 1050mhz (haven't bothered to overclock it properly yet) and my fx 8320 at 4.2ghz


----------



## IanVC

Modified my FlexATX 500W PSU. Shortened the cables, removed a molex cable altogether, then took apart the sata power cable and rigged it to use floppy power for ODD, molex for case fans, and sata for one 600GB velociraptor. Also rigged a remote turn on switch, which seems to be a missing feature for living room based cases.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IanVC*
> 
> Modified my FlexATX 500W PSU. Shortened the cables, removed a molex cable altogether, then took apart the sata power cable and rigged it to use floppy power for ODD, molex for case fans, and sata for one 600GB velociraptor. Also rigged a remote turn on switch, which seems to be a missing feature for living room based cases.


is that a garage door opener?


----------



## IanVC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> is that a garage door opener?


No but it definitely looks like one. Logisys bundles it with the remote switch


----------



## Slay

So I was at my friends house and he was complaining (alright, I noticed FPS loss and intervened) about his cpu reaching high temperatures.

I've decided to look into it and this is roughly what I saw. Nice isn't it? By the way, his PC was a pre-built and the cpu 4 pin power was stuck in the middle of 8 pin connector, connected to pins 2,3,6,7 instead of 1,2,7,8.

I am still amazed that it worked and didn't just burst into flames. Anyways, he had 2 exhausts and no intake. At all. Not even holes because some clever designer thought that these plastic... things are more needed than an intake fan.

What I ended up doing was getting rid of these useless supports and removing a part of the front panel so we could stick a fan in there (which was also jury rigged with random screws as you can see in pic 3, I swear I heard the plastic cracking), the cables have been cleaned up (as much as you can without zip ties at least) and "safely" put into the 5,25 bay.

Temps under max load, Phenom II 955x4:
Before: 65 @3.2GHz
After: 63 @3.6GHz (is that temp even safe?)
Also i think there might be something wrong with the paste, but sadly I didn't have any at hand.


----------



## azanimefan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> So I was at my friends house and he was complaining (alright, I noticed FPS loss and intervened) about his cpu reaching high temperatures.
> 
> I've decided to look into it and this is roughly what I saw. Nice isn't it? By the way, his PC was a pre-built and the cpu 4 pin power was stuck in the middle of 8 pin connector, connected to pins 2,3,6,7 instead of 1,2,7,8.
> 
> I am still amazed that it worked and didn't just burst into flames. Anyways, he had 2 exhausts and no intake. At all. Not even holes because some clever designer thought that these plastic... things are more needed than an intake fan.
> 
> What I ended up doing was getting rid of these useless supports and removing a part of the front panel so we could stick a fan in there (which was also jury rigged with random screws as you can see in pic 3, I swear I heard the plastic cracking), the cables have been cleaned up (as much as you can without zip ties at least) and "safely" put into the 5,25 bay.
> 
> Temps under max load, Phenom II 955x4:
> Before: 65 @3.2GHz
> *After: 63 @3.6GHz (is that temp even safe?)*
> Also i think there might be something wrong with the paste, but sadly I didn't have any at hand.


nice job.

as for the question about temps. it's safe if the pc isn't black screen powering down or hard freezing (locking up). The issue with the PHII is it was common for the cpu thermometer to be as much as + or - 20C from actual due to being the first AMD cpu without an actual thermometer (they use some sort of algorithem to "estimate" core temps)

on the bright side, unlike with bulldozer/piledriver temp reporting which could get pretty crazy, the PHII temp reporting typically was pretty dependable and accurate... only not particularly well calibrated.

with my phenomII i simply kept overclocking mine until i started getting temp related crashes. then i used the temp reported it was crashing at (55C) as the baseline for my cpu temp. generally speaking PHII cpus temp crash around 58-63C, so i just assumed mine was reporting it's temps 5C too cold, and adjusted accordingly. if your friend's cpu is reporting those temps but not crashing i guarantee his cpu is reporting its temps too high, as the PHII really didn't like temps in the 63C neighborhood.

(just a guess but it's probably safe to say his cpu is probably reporting it's temps +10-15C too high, that motherboard doesn't look like it could support serious voltages in the first place, and that cpu cooler doesn't look particularly robust, so i figure with a light overclock up to 3.6ghz you're probably running around 50C or so)


----------



## Jimbags

Reminds me of when I built my sandybridge build. Before Sandy came out I almost went with an AMD PHII X6 1055t. Didnt really know as much then but so glad I went with the 2500k in the end. Had so much fun with that rig. Have heard so many peoblems with the AMD's too,Sort of where AMD started to lose alot of ground. Sad really.
Nostalgic post over*


----------



## snipekill2445

I've had two amd builds now, a Phenom II build, and my current FX 8320 build. I've found AMD platforms just work, I had nothing but problems with my 3570K build, there's was always something new going wrong


----------



## Nenkitsune

Can you spot my ghettoish rigging?


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I've had two amd builds now, a Phenom II build, and my current FX 8320 build. I've found AMD platforms just work, I had nothing but problems with my 3570K build, there's was always something new going wrong


I guess it just comes down to personal experience. Ive never had trouble with my i5 2500K or my i5 3570k. Both easy to overclock, i5 3570k sits on 4.7Ghz @ 1.27V, The 2500K did 4.5Ghz on 1.24V. Awesome for gaming never ever freezes or lockups due to cpu


----------



## NexusRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> Can you spot my ghettoish rigging?


This is what I've found:

Zip tied fan on motherboard vrms. 80mm?
Aluminum heat sinks on motherboard vrm?
Zip tied Corsair SP120? onto Noctua headsink?


----------



## Sedici

Apple chargers just love to fray at the connectors.

Ordered a new one, but I'm not waiting 2-3 days without my laptop waiting for it to arrive so...

Crap chargers call for crap fixes.


















Basically what it looked like before.


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> This is what I've found:
> 
> Zip tied fan on motherboard vrms. 80mm?
> Aluminum heat sinks on motherboard vrm?
> Zip tied Corsair SP120? onto Noctua headsink?


ATX Mobo and 1 GPU. Can't unnotice.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> This is what I've found:
> 
> Zip tied fan on motherboard vrms. 80mm?
> Aluminum heat sinks on motherboard vrm?
> Zip tied Corsair SP120? onto Noctua headsink?
> 
> 
> 
> ATX Mobo and 1 GPU. Can't unnotice.
Click to expand...

So? I have a P9X79 WS and only one GPU (never mind I also have an HBA card, sound card, and feed my internal card reader from a PCI-e slot).


----------



## -Leopold-

I see red tape on the CPU-Cooler. And i didnt see RAM.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> I see red tape on the CPU-Cooler. And i didnt see RAM.


There should be a stick or two under the cooler fan.


----------



## snipekill2445

I've got an ATX motherboard with a single GPU aswell, I have a sound card too


----------



## Nenkitsune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NexusRed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> Can you spot my ghettoish rigging?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I've found:
> 
> Zip tied fan on motherboard vrms. 80mm?
> Aluminum heat sinks on motherboard vrm?
> Zip tied Corsair SP120? onto Noctua headsink?
Click to expand...

Yeah, and the fan I think is smaller than 80mm. can't remember. 55mm maybe? it's actually zip tied to the case.

it was worse. I have a fan controller i no longer use that only has molex connectors. I ripped all the molex connectors and had all the wiring taped up to the fans to control it.

There was also lots of duct tape holding up wiring out of the way behind the mobo tray, but i ripped that all out after i swapped power supplies.

2 sticks are under the noctua heat sink. And yeah, it's a corsair SP120. There's another SP120 between the PSU and hard drives, and a xigmatek fan as an intake on front of the case. I have another SP120 I'm not using that I want to put back in. I had an AF120 but the stupid thing is broken.


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> So? I have a P9X79 WS and only one GPU (never mind I also have an HBA card, sound card, and feed my internal card reader from a PCI-e slot).


Sorry, let me rephrase myself. 1 expansion card and atx mobo.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> Sorry, let me rephrase myself. 1 expansion card and atx mobo.


Still not seeing the problem.

Like saying someone shouldn't have a four door car when they drive alone.


----------



## Xylonjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I use the old VGA/DVI screws for mobo standoffs when I run out of real ones, you can get a dead graphics card for peanuts and take off the port screws to use for your mobo. They are a bit shorter than a standard motherboard standoff so you'd need to use a washer between it and the mobo (I cut a piece of thin cardboard to serve as a washer) and use different screws for screwing in the mobo, but they serve very well as emergency mobo standoffs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And since I haven't been ghetto-rigging on my PC lately, does a ghetto keychain count?
> 
> 
> 
> I made that out of an old 512MB DDR2-667 SODIMM about a year ago cause no one wanted to buy it for $4, had plenty of keyrings and when I saw the hole in that SODIMM, this happened. Most importantly, it gives me nerd rep.
> 
> By the way, this thing still works, used it two weeks ago in my old laptop when it's RAM died. It's both a cool keychain and good emergency memory.


I used to fabricate key fobs too back in the late 90's. I'd make them out of old DIMMS, cache modules, NIC's etc and give them to friends and colleagues. +1 for nerd rep.


----------



## snipekill2445

Seems to me it'd be cheaper to just buy more standoffs, rather than having to buy a whole gpu lol


----------



## Duality92

I have a pentium 4 as my keychain.


----------



## rodaduck

myu test bench..hahaha


----------



## Slay

You should patent that.


----------



## Nenkitsune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> Sorry, let me rephrase myself. 1 expansion card and atx mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> Still not seeing the problem.
> 
> Like saying someone shouldn't have a four door car when they drive alone.
Click to expand...

In my defense, when I built the system 6 years ago it had dual HD4830's

but by the time I bought my single HD7850, the one card was faster than my two 4830's.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> Can you spot my ghettoish rigging?


your computer looks like it has a dangerous amount of condensation on it. hope thats just dust


----------



## RockeyDA

SOOOO, i deded my ps3 mobo by putting a fan that pulled to much current on the pmw side of things. my mods ket it cool in the winter but it overheated in the summer so i went to overkill on it, and it overdied.

So i started calling apon owed favors and trading around and iM finally ready to be a MLG Console Peasant!

Finaly can start playing COD again, i never got the good ending in black ops 2, and i was no longer able to split screen DM with friends.


but yeah, the setup is here and i FINALY got a ps3 that can play ps2 games, i have been trying to get my hands on one since 2009!
its not ghetto but im so happy, and now i regret preordring black ops 3 for pc, because its probably not gonna have split screen and run worse than advanced warfare, witch i can only play at 5-15fps.

(Tested game. Def Jam: Fight For New York)
PS.... SONY DOSE SOME DUMB HDD ENCRYPTION THING SO IF YOUR PS3 DIES YOU CANT USE YOUR SAVE GAMES IN ANOTHER SYSTEM AND IS FORCED TO REFORMAT HARD DRIVE!

3RD TIME STARTING OVER ON PS3!

also this is my first ps3 i have got in working condition, the fan was kind rattlely at low rpm's but i just swaped it out with a fan from a newer fat.


----------



## snipekill2445

Dat wallpaper /)

I quite like my own one


----------



## Pawelr98

My voltmodded P5B Deluxe.
Added small voltmeter for vcore readout.
The board has permanent Vdroop mod (Vdroop resistor replaced by wire) and Vcore mod (IIRC fine up to 1.95V due to OVP).


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> My voltmodded P5B Deluxe.
> Added small voltmeter for vcore readout.
> The board has permanent Vdroop mod (Vdroop resistor replaced by wire) and Vcore mod (IIRC fine up to 1.95V due to OVP).


Benchies please!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Benchies please!


Look on my HWBOT if you need to see some results. Recently I'm not benching because:
-No new cpu's to bench on
-I must do complete main rig replacement (1045T->5820K(ghetto waterblock mount too) HD6990-> Fury X)
-Phase change has too weak compressor (-40°C without load and stock 352 is about -20°C so it's really weak) and it's failing too (sometimes I need to restart it few times to make it work)

So I will have to either go to some AC/fridge repair point (which has equipment to repair such stuff) or build really strong TEC chiller (~400W cooling power or so).


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Look on my HWBOT if you need to see some results. Recently I'm not benching because:
> -No new cpu's to bench on
> -I must do complete main rig replacement (1045T->5820K(ghetto waterblock mount too) HD6990-> Fury X)
> -Phase change has too weak compressor (-40°C without load and stock 352 is about -20°C so it's really weak) and it's failing too (sometimes I need to restart it few times to make it work)
> 
> So I will have to either go to some AC/fridge repair point (which has equipment to repair such stuff) or build really strong TEC chiller (~400W cooling power or so).


whats a HWBOT? sounds like a bad thing.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> whats a HWBOT? sounds like a bad thing.


hwbot.org


----------



## Pawelr98

It works.
I just need to improve the mount of the PCB.


----------



## hartofwave

Lower friction monitor arm mod! Just grab some Teflon thread sealer tape for plumbing and bam. I'm genuinely surprised at how good this is working


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> hwbot.org


so its like a online version of geek bench?


----------



## CS14

Needed some extra cooling over my VRMs and didn't have any zip ties so I took the stock cooler my FX 8320 came with and tied it above the VRMs using old wires from my 965's stock cooler.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> hwbot.org
> 
> 
> 
> so its like a online version of geek bench?
Click to expand...

No. It's rather a huge database of overclocks, benchmark results etc.
Just see for yourself.

Just click this under my avatar and you will go directly to my profile.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> No. It's rather a huge database of overclocks, benchmark results etc.
> Just see for yourself.
> 
> Just click this under my avatar and you will go directly to my profile.


At first glance i thought this was a stick figure.


----------



## crashdummy35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> At first glance i thought this was a stick figure.












OCN has an HWbot team.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashdummy35*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OCN has an HWbot team.


Yeah I know that and have known that for quite a while now, i am just stating at first glance it looked like a dang stick figure and made me look twice.


----------



## snipekill2445

I think this is about as 'ghetto' as I'll get, sleeved and cable tied the fan from the FX8xxx cooler to the vrm heatsink
Can actually touch those heatsinks without burning myself now





Edit: ended up taking it out, the retention clip was making a bunch of noise, got a new 80mm on the way to take it's place. Should be good


----------



## RockeyDA

so my dualshock 3 broke AGIN, and im sick of trying to find new solder points, if there are any, i just cut the back open, when the battry dies im gonna try charging the batry and only use it on my ps3. this thing is made cheeply and im sick of solder points coming ungled from the pcb.

funny thing is older ds3's the usb port goes all the way threw instead of the surface mount solder this one got... 45$ for this pice of crap. for that price i should be able to throw it off of a bridge and it be ok!\

this is the crap i had to go through last time!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so my dualshock 3 broke AGIN, and im sick of trying to find new solder points, if there are any, i just cut the back open, when the battry dies im gonna try charging the batry and only use it on my ps3. this thing is made cheeply and im sick of solder points coming ungled from the pcb.
> 
> funny thing is older ds3's the usb port goes all the way threw instead of the surface mount solder this one got... 45$ for this pice of crap. for that price i should be able to throw it off of a bridge and it be ok!\
> 
> this is the crap i had to go through last time!


what do you do to your poor controllers...I have a ps1 controller that survived a 70 foot drop and still works







none of my dual shock.2 or 3 controllers gave me issue no matter what I've thrown at them or thrown them at


----------



## Nenkitsune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so my dualshock 3 broke AGIN, and im sick of trying to find new solder points, if there are any, i just cut the back open, when the battry dies im gonna try charging the batry and only use it on my ps3. this thing is made cheeply and im sick of solder points coming ungled from the pcb.
> 
> funny thing is older ds3's the usb port goes all the way threw instead of the surface mount solder this one got... 45$ for this pice of crap. for that price i should be able to throw it off of a bridge and it be ok!\
> 
> this is the crap i had to go through last time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you do to your poor controllers...I have a ps1 controller that survived a 70 foot drop and still works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> none of my dual shock.2 or 3 controllers gave me issue no matter what I've thrown at them or thrown them at
Click to expand...

Surface mount micro USB is the problem. lol I have PS2 controllers that have survived rage spiking them into hard wood floors. Popped the L2 or R2 buttons off but those usually snap back in with a bit of effort.

I had two game cube controllers that got mauled by an annoying little dog and I had to basically make a new cable using speaker wire and lots of tape. It worked, but man was it ugly. Plus side was i made it like 2 feet longer than normal so it had a better reach! I think I even soldered the cables too. I think I was 13


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> what do you do to your poor controllers...I have a ps1 controller that survived a 70 foot drop and still works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> none of my dual shock.2 or 3 controllers gave me issue no matter what I've thrown at them or thrown them at


well, this controller fell 3feet on to carpet while the usb cable was plugged in. that was what set the pcb on to a downward spiral of fail! i have thrown this controller but only 3 times in the past 2 years i have owned it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> well, this controller fell 3feet on to carpet while the usb cable was plugged in. that was what set the pcb on to a downward spiral of fail! i have thrown this controller but only 3 times in the past 2 years i have owned it.


yeah having the cable in I could see how...mini and micro usb cables are crap these days I buy one every 2 months or so for my fiances phone and my headset just normal use the prongs flatten out so they fall out and the connectors just don't hold up


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah having the cable in I could see how...mini and micro usb cables are crap these days I buy one every 2 months or so for my fiances phone and my headset just normal use the prongs flatten out so they fall out and the connectors just don't hold up


I can attest to that







The micro usb connector on the charging cable for my note 2 is bent by about 25-30° just from the force of gravity...


----------



## Nukemaster

And we want smaller thinner plugs for all devices in the future.

Older ports may be bulky, but they are tough.

Lucky enough my miniusb(i think they is the normal small version of usb) devices have held up very well.


----------



## lexer

Oh men i have some many things to share .... this post is basically me in a nutshell

My DIY mouse cable holder


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah having the cable in I could see how...mini and micro usb cables are crap these days I buy one every 2 months or so for my fiances phone and my headset just normal use the prongs flatten out so they fall out and the connectors just don't hold up


the connector was 100% ok, just the pcb around the port started coming apart and unglued, and the pins were so close to there i could not solder in the original mini usb even if the pcb was not destroyed in that area.
you should never surface mount a connector bound to have stress on it, on top of having such a cheaply made pcb then the solder points for mounting the metal shell to the pcb were surface mount, and yes the basically fell off.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the connector was 100% ok, just the pcb around the port started coming apart and unglued, and the pins were so close to there i could not solder in the original mini usb even if the pcb was not destroyed in that area.
> you should never surface mount a connector bound to have stress on it, on top of having such a cheaply made pcb then the solder points for mounting the metal shell to the pcb were surface mount, and yes the basically fell off.


mini usb connectors aren't so bad anyway it's the micro and the new 3.0 usb with quick charge.likes on my note 3....but yeah things aren't made like they used to be I have an Atari system that fell off a truck and was run over by a car and nothing was broken..some scuffs but not even broken plastic...I dropped my first ps2 and it never worked after a 3 foot drop


----------



## Nenkitsune

I think the note4 went back to usb 2.0 but still has quick charge. Had this phone since it came out and haven't had any issues with the port. Hell, I still have the cable it came with and it still snaps in like it should even though I charge the phone in my pocket (portable chargers) with the usb port on the bottom.


----------



## Dtaivpp

Not sure if this is the right place to post but recently I decided I would build a server as cheap as possible and I ended up making my case out of cardboard and duct tape....


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dtaivpp*
> 
> Not sure if this is the right place to post but recently I decided I would build a server as cheap as possible and I ended up making my case out of cardboard and duct tape....


one of my firedns was trying to give me a ssd, i talked him out of it, worried i would not get the performance and reliability of my sas drive, aslo was only 250gb so im like meh 300gb is small enough as it is.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> one of my firedns was trying to give me a ssd, i talked him out of it, worried i would not get the performance and reliability of my sas drive, aslo was only 250gb so im like meh 300gb is small enough as it is.


ssd that's anything over 30gb is wonderful for system drive...beats the pants off regular hdd


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> one of my firedns was trying to give me a ssd, i talked him out of it, worried i would not get the performance and reliability of my sas drive, aslo was only 250gb so im like meh 300gb is small enough as it is.
> 
> 
> 
> ssd that's anything over 30gb is wonderful for system drive...beats the pants off regular hdd
Click to expand...

I never recommend anything less than 120-128GB. Prices have come down enough to make them easily affordable.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> ssd that's anything over 30gb is wonderful for system drive...beats the pants off regular hdd


1 i struggle for space at 300gb, (gtav is over 60)
2 regular old hard drive? i got a SAS Seagate Cheetah 15k.7 others have benched it at 400MB/s but i have only got 200MB/s on it because i bought a cheep azz hp smart array p400. a 6Gb/s card is like 300$ and if im lucky $100 on ebay. so i don't get my speed, but i still get the reliability of server grade hardware, and i never herd of a ssd that ran on sas so im doubting there made for long term reliability.


----------



## Nukemaster

Access times are what make an SSD so useful for certain things.


----------



## snipekill2445

SSDs are the single best upgrade for system performance and speed.

I could never go back to a hard drive based OS


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> SSDs are the single best upgrade for system performance and speed.
> 
> I could never go back to a hard drive based OS


REALLY? even with my speeds halved im getting about 4 times the performance as your run-of-the-mill 7200rpm drive. most of mine bench around 50MB/s , my old sata 80gb 10,000rpm gave me 90MB/s, and even with the hard drive controller crippling the drive im still getting 200MB/s. if you ssd is so life changing what do you get for benches? (tell me in bites not bits)


----------



## Nukemaster

I was running 3 short stroked WDC blacks in raid0 for the faster access times, but even a moderate SSD was much faster at everyday tasks. Access times play the major roll in random reads and writes and allot of computer use is just that type of thing.

This was what those drive gave me. And the cheap SSD is faster than this in everything aside from writing uncompressed sequential video files.


What are you benching 50 megabytes/sec on? Is that a min or average? It has been years since I saw a 7200rpm drive average 50 megabytes a second, but again access times make a HUGE difference.

Here is more recent and critical benches that take more than raw sequential speed into consideration.
WDC Black 2TB single drive.


Red 3TB


WDC Scorpio Blue 1TB(2.5 inch drive). Removed because it was a different benchmark

Cheap seagate drive


They all look ok,
Very cheap Kingston SSD(small SSD).


Where it counts even a cheap SSD would make a noticeable difference in day to day computer use.

EDIT.

I want to make it clear that i am NOT bashing you in any way(How could I even do that). I am just wondering what tests are being done and make sure it is clear that sequential throughput is only good for very specific workloads(uncompressed video is a big one) while random seek performance covers much more day to day computer use. Raid0(with its zero redundancy) only increases sequential and not random workloads(it may be even make random slightly slower in some cases).


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> REALLY? even with my speeds halved im getting about 4 times the performance as your run-of-the-mill 7200rpm drive. most of mine bench around 50MB/s , my old sata 80gb 10,000rpm gave me 90MB/s, and even with the hard drive controller crippling the drive im still getting 200MB/s. if you ssd is so life changing what do you get for benches? (tell me in bites not bits)


lol is not only about read/write speeds, it's about access times. Being able to open photoshop for instance in 3 seconds vs 30 in my old hard drive.

But if you want those speeds... 509.51/433.48MB/s read/write









I see you don't have an SSD? I know another guy who doesn't and he doesn't seem to like them either. Must be jealous of our performance


----------



## Powerg4

Nice work with the server case haha!









I agree about the mini usb plugs, they are just so flimsy! I always take extra care with mine on my new phone as my old phone went crazy due to the charging socket getting damaged-for some reason it always thought it was charging even when unplugged!
Even the new apple iphone connector is too small for my liking, luckily all my ipods have the old 30pin connector, never had a problem with that!

About SSD's:
As already mentioned they are probably best used as the system drive for your operating system and then you can put in a few large (2tb etc) hard disks just for storage!








Also they are probably way less likely to fail than any mechanical hard disk as there are no moving parts to go wrong, although my 10+ year old 160gb drives I got for free are still holding up well haha!









On the other hand I had a 1tb hard disk that was less than 5 years old die on me, and numerous other newer drives, particularly WD. Never a problem with my stone age seagate drives though, not sure why as they are way older.

I still use all hard drives just because they are dirt cheap but the SSD is definitely superior in terms of speed, if I had the money I would probably want to get one for a new build!








They are bound to get even cheaper eventually too!


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> *lol is not only about read/write speeds*, it's about access times. Being able to open photoshop for instance in 3 seconds vs 30 in my old hard drive.
> 
> But if you want those speeds... 509.51/433.48MB/s read/write
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see you don't have an SSD? I know another guy who doesn't and he doesn't seem to like them either. Must be jealous of our performance


+1

I had a Kingston Hyperx Predator that the brand send me to do a review ... is freakin' fast !. But the OS, Programs, games ect takes almost the same time to load, compared to a EVO 840.
So even a low/mid-end SSD (EVO 840/ MX100 / Intel 535) can do a massive difference and is not really necessary going for some crazy solution likes RAID 0 SSD or M2 PCI-E ... at least if you only want fast access time

Just my


----------



## Pawelr98




----------



## kernel G

Alright, back on topic! Love your ingenious mounting of your laptop monitor, Pawelr. I hope that you're not leaving that 5v wire bare at the back of the case! If you don't need it, snip it right at the plug.


----------



## Nukemaster

At least that monitor/TV will go off(not just sleep) with system









I run stuff off of USB(stuff not made for usb), but you have taken it to the next level(and one i have considered).

What are the lower buttons connected to anyway?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> Alright, back on topic! Love your ingenious mounting of your laptop monitor, Pawelr. *I hope that you're not leaving that 5v wire bare at the back of the case! If you don't need it, snip it right at the plug.*


I was thinking the same thing, but it looks like that wire is not connected on the computer side anyway.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> Alright, back on topic! Love your ingenious mounting of your laptop monitor, Pawelr. I hope that you're not leaving that 5v wire bare at the back of the case! If you don't need it, snip it right at the plug.


5V is not connected on PC side as the controller requires only 12V.

I have used molex plug to make it easier to disonnect the display from PC. Soon I will have to make upgrade to X99 so I will have to take the PC away from desk in order to change the parts.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> What are the lower buttons connected to anyway?


These are buttons connected to the controller itself.
I can control the display either with remote (that small thing next to keypad is the IR receiver) or with buttons.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I was running 3 short stroked WDC blacks in raid0 for the faster access times, but even a moderate SSD was much faster at everyday tasks. Access times play the major roll in random reads and writes and allot of computer use is just that type of thing.
> 
> This was what those drive gave me. And the cheap SSD is faster than this in everything aside from writing uncompressed sequential video files.
> 
> 
> What are you benching 50 megabytes/sec on? Is that a min or average? It has been years since I saw a 7200rpm drive average 50 megabytes a second, but again access times make a HUGE difference.
> 
> Here is more recent and critical benches that take more than raw sequential speed into consideration.
> WDC Black 2TB single drive.
> 
> 
> Red 3TB
> 
> 
> WDC Scorpio Blue 1TB(2.5 inch drive). Removed because it was a different benchmark
> 
> Cheap seagate drive
> 
> 
> They all look ok,
> Very cheap Kingston SSD(small SSD).
> 
> 
> Where it counts even a cheap SSD would make a noticeable difference in day to day computer use.
> 
> EDIT.
> 
> I want to make it clear that i am NOT bashing you in any way(How could I even do that). I am just wondering what tests are being done and make sure it is clear that sequential throughput is only good for very specific workloads(uncompressed video is a big one) while random seek performance covers much more day to day computer use. Raid0(with its zero redundancy) only increases sequential and not random workloads(it may be even make random slightly slower in some cases).


i use various test in a utility called HD TUNE PRO.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> lol is not only about read/write speeds, it's about access times. Being able to open photoshop for instance in 3 seconds vs 30 in my old hard drive.
> 
> But if you want those speeds... 509.51/433.48MB/s read/write
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see you don't have an SSD? I know another guy who doesn't and he doesn't seem to like them either. Must be jealous of our performance


yeah, my drive is already fast.... and im gonna be getting a 6gb's sas controller soon so i can(got a friend helpen me out there http://www.overclock.net/u/452526/w3453l ) and then i shal unlock the potential of my sas drive! but im not jelly, im worried there unreliable, and i know there small, and i already got a really fast drive. like i said i tuned down one being gave to me.

also i absolutely love how my hard drive sounds, like most server drives its unique and big sounding, i know when that drive is busy, witch is good because it has no accesses light, only power. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_NytnWm-ehYZS13azNqVTdTQjg/view?usp=sharing


----------



## snipekill2445

Even though SSD's cannot have a mechanical failure like a hard drive.... lol


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Even though SSD's cannot have a mechanical failure like a hard drive.... lol


using that logic memory cant die, and i have had alot of dead cheep ram, even some dead corsair xms stciks. and i know the inside of my hard drive was made with good parts intended to last along time. (seriously best built hdd i ever seen! even its air filter is gigantic) also all my old 8gb scsi drives still work fantastic but not big or fast by today's standards, so i wanna stick with reliable hardware intended for long term use in servers.
****EDIT***
just pulled one of my old scsi drives out, its a "quantum atlas 10k ii" and ****, its made in Japan, and as i thought was a 10,000 rpm drive. its been like 4 years since i becned it but i think i got like 60mb/s on it.... i kinda wanna bench it now, if i wasn't setting up for a big ass party tomorrow i would break out a controller card and test it on the hp workstation.


----------



## Powerg4

True but the likelihood of solid state memory failure is way less likely than the mechanical problems hard drives can have.
Removal of the mechanical parts reduces the chance of something going wrong by alot!








I still use all hard drives and have had many newer ones die on me after only a few years, interestingly my older drives are slow but they keep on going!

I too have had a number of dodgy RAM sticks, very common!








RAM is very different to SSD's though so it's not really fair to use that as an example of the reliability of an SSD.


----------



## snipekill2445

The inside of my SSD is built with quality parts made to last a long time, the Samsung SSDs are among the best, the 830 series was basically unmatched in reliability.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yeah, my drive is already fast.... and im gonna be getting a 6gb's sas controller soon so i can(got a friend helpen me out there http://www.overclock.net/u/452526/w3453l ) and then i shal unlock the potential of my sas drive! but im not jelly, im worried there unreliable, and i know there small, and i already got a really fast drive. like i said i tuned down one being gave to me.
> 
> also i absolutely love how my hard drive sounds, like most server drives its unique and big sounding, i know when that drive is busy, witch is good because it has no accesses light, only power. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_NytnWm-ehYZS13azNqVTdTQjg/view?usp=sharing


I can't fathom why someone would turn down a ssd...even if you just the some games on to try it out it cost you nothing...one thing I do find funny about your posts is in some areas you will fix something 1k times until it's totally unfixable yet in some areas you buy the much higher priced items for reliability







I can't say much I'm about as cheap as you can get.. About 80 percent of my clothes are from high school (13-15 years)


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yeah, my drive is already fast.... and im gonna be getting a 6gb's sas controller soon so i can(got a friend helpen me out there http://www.overclock.net/u/452526/w3453l ) and then i shal unlock the potential of my sas drive! but im not jelly, im worried there unreliable, and i know there small, and i already got a really fast drive. like i said i tuned down one being gave to me.
> 
> also i absolutely love how my hard drive sounds, like most server drives its unique and big sounding, i know when that drive is busy, witch is good because it has no accesses light, only power. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_NytnWm-ehYZS13azNqVTdTQjg/view?usp=sharing


Turning down a free SSD is about on par with the spelling and punctuation in the post I am replying to.


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Turning down a free SSD is about on par with the spelling and punctuation in the post I am replying to.


If Overclock had likes, you'd get one.


----------



## Pyro_Teknic

needed some vrm and mosfet cooling after putting the kraken on my 970 and had some leftover zipties and a an extra slotted bracket...


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i use various test in a utility called HD TUNE PRO.


I have tested most of those drives in HDTune as well, but because it is more useful for sequential(in the non pro version). It does not give a good idea.

Some HDTune pro tests. with a SLOW hard drive and 2 mid end SSD(from about 3 years ago)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Your 10/15k drives would kill things thing even if the top speeds did not match on access times alone
WDC RED 3TB(Slow, but works great for storage). Currently in use while benching

























Crucial M4 128(just shy of 3 years of on time). In use while benching

























Crucial M4 256(I have 2 of these in my gaming system). Not used too often(also on Windows 10).



























I am guessing the 50-60 megabyte/sec drives are before PRM drives had been released.

Anyway, back onto topic on ghetto mods









Pyro_Teknic,
Check out and post on this thread too








http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/0_40


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pyro_Teknic*
> 
> [/IMG]
> 
> needed some vrm and mosfet cooling after putting the kraken on my 970 and had some leftover zipties and a an extra slotted bracket...


Be sure to make a cardboard wind tunnel leading from these holes on the left for some fresh, cold air!


----------



## Powerg4

Definitely!
Also be sure to use duct tape to keep the cool air gathered through the tunnel from escaping!


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Definitely!
> Also be sure to use duct tape to keep the cool air gathered through the tunnel from escaping!


And don't forget to paint Razer logo on it for that extra FPS boost!


----------



## lexer

One customer brought me this to my home .... seems a rage kick.






Results


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> And don't forget to paint Razer logo on it for that extra FPS boost!


Paint it red for +20kw


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Paint it red for +20kw


Have to use a few zip-ties or job is not a good one.


----------



## Robitdolan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> One customer brought me this to my home .... seems a rage kick.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lol'd at your signature


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Have to use a few zip-ties or job is not a good one.


And now we wait for pictures


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> And now we wait for pictures


Indeed,








It's not real without pictures!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> One customer brought me this to my home .... seems a rage kick.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2524628/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2524629/width/350/height/700
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2524630/width/350/height/700
> 
> Results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2524632/width/350/height/700


That's a hell of a kick to dent the power supply like that.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> True but the likelihood of solid state memory failure is way less likely than the mechanical problems hard drives can have.
> Removal of the mechanical parts reduces the chance of something going wrong by alot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still use all hard drives and have had many newer ones die on me after only a few years, interestingly my older drives are slow but they keep on going!
> 
> I too have had a number of dodgy RAM sticks, very common!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAM is very different to SSD's though so it's not really fair to use that as an example of the reliability of an SSD.


isnt a ssd just a drive with ram and a battery backup on it? its what they were in the TSR-80 Days.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> The inside of my SSD is built with quality parts made to last a long time, the Samsung SSDs are among the best, the 830 series was basically unmatched in reliability.


DUDE? you just complemented Samsung, everything i have even seen from them throughout the years has been riddled with the cheapest components and dry solder joints. from tv's to ram, and i got a hard drive from them that actually messes with any pc u put it in, on diagnostic test is causes false memory and cpu errors.
if i ever repair something maid my Samsung i find, i get rid of it as soon as possible, usually give away with warnings of, hay its free but unreliable.
there hardware is the cheapest for a reason!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Turning down a free SSD is about on par with the spelling and punctuation in the post I am replying to.


funny thing is i have now turnt down 2 ssd's i know this dude named danny trying to give me one, i said no to the drive, but said hellz yeah to his other offer, a 12 port 10/100/1000 switch, all my pc's got 2x gigabit a second Ethernet on them, but never ran into a switch faster than 10/100. also this ssd is only like 80gb or something, that would barley fit GTA.


----------



## Mystriss

There is like /zero/ comparison between SSD and mechanical HDD for like anything but capacity. SSD's are smaller, faster, and better in just about every way I think. I will /never/ go back to a mechanical HDD boot system heh I've got Crucial SSD's right now that are pretty much flawless; win 7 64 boots in 3 seconds on my 2GHz mini ITX w/8gb ram









Still, the conventional school of thought is/was that SSD's need to be replaced every like 5 years, but that appears to be getting outdated. SanDisk now offers a *10 year* warrantee on their Extreme Pro SSD's (128gb-1tb sizes if I recall, and the 240gb was like $165 on their site/Amazon ~ that'll be my next drive purchase.) Still, I personally run a hybrid system for safety, I've got 2 like 10 year old WD's that I back up everything on (including Windows images - which also saves me from my tinkering heh) but they're pretty much just backup drives. All my games and programs are on the SSD.

I won't buy a Samsung SSD though, they seem to have massive compatibility problems... Compatibility flaws == deal breaker for me.

Now, if you want speed, then check out the M.2 SSDs; 1.5k write/1k read ~nod nod~ Spendy, but ALL the warp drive. ( Review w/tests: http://news.softpedia.com/news/kingston-hyperx-predator-480gb-m-2-pcie-ssd-review-when-nothing-matters-more-than-speed-486361.shtml Also as a note, the new x99 class MB's come with M.2 onboard so you don't even need the expansion PCIe card. See my next MB purchase: http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99E_WS/overview/ [Edit oops forgot it's not on the Deluxe, second Edit, /THIS/ Deluxe http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97DELUXENFC_WLC/overview/ heh])


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> isnt a ssd just a drive with ram and a battery backup on it? its what they were in the TSR-80 Days.


Current SSD's do not require nor have a battery(Some have high capacity caps to allow a cache flush to nand on a power out). The nand will hold data without power just like a flash drive or memory card.

If left powered for a rather long time, data corruption could be an issue(but it varies from drive to drive).

I too would have a hard time going back to a hard drive for my OS. Even my Windows 10 beta got an ssd because even a fairly fast hard drive was noticeably slower(making it hard to compare performance with my Windows 7 setup).

This does not mean SSD's give you higher FPS in games or anything and some games make all users wait until the last player loads. MMO users(or any game that loads data on the fly) should have shorter loading pauses because of the fast random access times on SSDs


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Used an envolope to guide air flow.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> isnt a ssd just a drive with ram and a battery backup on it? its what they were in the TSR-80 Days.


Umm, things have changed a bit since then. Don't tell me you're still running a Z-80 in there? It's flash memory like a usb thumb drive.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Used an envolope to guide air flow.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2524992/width/9200/height/9400


Works and is cheap.

I used to use a cereal box as an air guide(Pepsi case for another and clear plastic from a packing container for a last one).


----------



## vicyo

The previous VRM heatsink i made for the 970IXOC was not very good (very bad in fact), so the mk.2 heatsink is done










try guessing whitch motherboard it came from


----------



## Nukemaster

I do not know what board, but that nice thick base should work very well.


----------



## lexer

That heatsink looks like from the LGA 775 era .... MSI or ASUS.

OFF: I have a collection of those heatsink, they are really usefull for electronics


----------



## Werne

I've been 40C for a week and it'll be 40C for two more weeks so this is how I tolerate summer from now on...



I just screwed an 800RPM GlideStream to a ripped off fan mesh, stuck it to a candy box full of spare change using some HDD magnets, wrapped a sock around the candy box to eliminate vibrations and hooked it up to the little one since that thing runs 0/24. Works well enough.

Also, my new intake filter:



I took a dead fan, ripped the motor and it's supports out, left just the frame. Then I took a range hood filter, sandwiched it between two 120mm grills, screwed it to the frame and secured a fan to that thing with twist ties.

And the little one's current cooling:



Ran out of MX-2.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> try guessing whitch motherboard it came from


Gigabyte EP45T-Extreme?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I've been 40C for a week and it'll be 40C for two more weeks so this is how I tolerate summer from now on...
> 
> 
> 
> I just screwed an 800RPM GlideStream to a ripped off fan mesh, stuck it to a candy box full of spare change using some HDD magnets, wrapped a sock around the candy box to eliminate vibrations and hooked it up to the little one since that thing runs 0/24. Works well enough.
> 
> Also, my new intake filter:
> 
> 
> 
> I took a dead fan, ripped the motor and it's supports out, left just the frame. Then I took a range hood filter, sandwiched it between two 120mm grills, screwed it to the frame and secured a fan to that thing with twist ties.
> 
> And the little one's current cooling:
> 
> 
> 
> Ran out of MX-2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> try guessing whitch motherboard it came from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gigabyte EP45T-Extreme?
Click to expand...

So you run it without heatsink?


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> So you run it without heatsink?


Yup.


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I do not know what board, but that nice thick base should work very well.


it does, 3mm copper is very nice and I can strip the fins and solder a HR-09 to it if it's not cooling properly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> That heatsink looks like from the LGA 775 era .... MSI or ASUS.
> 
> OFF: I have a collection of those heatsink, they are really usefull for electronics


I stayed in-house for the brand









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Gigabyte EP45T-Extreme?


it isn't, but VERY close


----------



## tbone8ty

rubber band mod lol

http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/tbone8ty/media/20150630_194553_zpscn2okjoh.jpg.html


----------



## Asymmetry

result when you install a H10 cooling bracket into a 670GTX mini. Also to fit the water tank onto my case I needed to hollow out a fan to use a spacer .

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht3_zpsl13vx9a0.jpg.html


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> result when you install a H10 cooling bracket into a 670GTX mini. Also to fit the water tank onto my case I needed to hollow out a fan to use a spacer .
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht3_zpsl13vx9a0.jpg.html


Shoulda used zip ties


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> result when you install a H10 cooling bracket into a 670GTX mini. Also to fit the water tank onto my case I needed to hollow out a fan to use a spacer .
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht3_zpsl13vx9a0.jpg.html










Dremel time ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> That heatsink looks like from the LGA 775 era .... MSI or ASUS.
> 
> OFF: I have a collection of those heatsink, they are really usefull for electronics


i use mine as coasters- seriously my fav is my first none stock HS a CM- no idea the model but it is ALL copper !~ and looks sexay with my coke on it !


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i use mine as coasters-


I use a sock...


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i use mine as coasters- seriously my fav is my first none stock HS a CM- no idea the model but it is ALL copper !~ and looks sexay with my coke on it !


Now motherboard manufacturers don't use cooper at all even high-end boards use aluminium









This one are so sexy


----------



## crashdummy35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Now motherboard manufacturers don't use cooper at all even high-end boards use aluminium
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This one are so sexy


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I bent a few pins on my FX 8320 pulling it out a couple weeks ago, it came out with the cooler while I was removing it, spent at least an our with tweezers gently putting them back, and it actually worked, using it now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> I'll use an X-Acto knife or a razor blade that has a point, along with a hands-free magnifying glass to straighten bent pins. Line them up nicely from one side, then turn the chip 90 degrees and repeat. Keep turning until everything's nice and straight!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I used a credit card and a wire casing from an old psu


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The one time I bent a pin, I used a tiny flat blade jeweler's screwdriver to gently nudge the pin back into place.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> X-acto blade would work wonders. I even used it to fix a few pins on a Intel LGA 1150 socket.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> I too used a thin razor blade to straighten up some pins. 7 pins in about 35 minutes if i remember.
> And as for the question about the dual desktop i7 cpu or similar, Last i heard those processors will not run in pairs like Xeons.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylonjay*
> 
> I did that as well just a couple of weeks ago. Not fun.


Next time you bend a pin get one of these pencils and slip the pin where the lead goes to straighten it Genius
BTW a bit late to the party


----------



## Polarghost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> result when you install a H10 cooling bracket into a 670GTX mini. Also to fit the water tank onto my case I needed to hollow out a fan to use a spacer .
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht3_zpsl13vx9a0.jpg.html


Nice. I posted something similar in the AMD Red Mod Club. That kraken bracket is a great little thing. Unfortunately it didn't fit my Antec 650 cooler. A little dremeling fixed that.

Not sure if it's ghetto enough but...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














This is where I had to hammer down and straighten out the notches. This was the scariest part as well as I didn't want to warp the metal










The block is on the right way now making it easier to manage the tubing.




I did this because I could. Couldn't care less about temps, but full load temps were down 15-20c. Don't have a picture but the screws weren't long enough to attach my Bitfenix fan to the rad so I had to do a little zip tying to fix that.

As well not in these pictures, I had to dremel off some of the plastic on the block itself to fit the screws because the diameter of the 650 was a little bigger than the 620. or a lot, I don't know but that thing was going to get on there regardless. I was dremel crazy nothing was going to stop me.

EDIT: The Video Card is a Dirt 3 6950


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> Next time you bend a pin get one of these pencils and slip the pin where the lead goes to straighten it Genius
> BTW a bit late to the party


that is quite possibly the nicest mechanical pencil ive seen...


----------



## unknown601

Well my trusty S2 headphones cable broke inside where the cable splits to go to each headphone, so i found some old headphone wires and got a jack from Jaycar and rewired the drives without cutting into the case  ghetto?

I put super glue on the wires after a soldered then so it does not short out, then hot glued it all in place.



More hot glue  and before anyone ask i only had yellow shrink tube on me at the time.











There working!


----------



## lexer

Ghetto Mod Mic . The microphone I took it from a Steelseries 4H


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Ghetto Mod Mic . The microphone I took it from a Steelseries 4H


nice...probably still sounds way better than the garbage Mic that is on my corsair 2100...easily the crappiest headset I've bought to date...


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Ghetto Mod Mic . The microphone I took it from a Steelseries 4H


I like it, looks very industrial.


----------



## snipekill2445

So I needed foam to try insulate my pump from vibrating the case, went to the store and bought some foam mouse pads, cut them up and used them









Got a fan double sided taped to the back of my motherboard to cool the socket too, probably gonna do a proper job with it though


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> There is like /zero/ comparison between SSD and mechanical HDD for like anything but capacity. SSD's are smaller, faster, and better in just about every way I think. I will /never/ go back to a mechanical HDD boot system heh I've got Crucial SSD's right now that are pretty much flawless; win 7 64 boots in 3 seconds on my 2GHz mini ITX w/8gb ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, the conventional school of thought is/was that SSD's need to be replaced every like 5 years, but that appears to be getting outdated. SanDisk now offers a *10 year* warrantee on their Extreme Pro SSD's (128gb-1tb sizes if I recall, and the 240gb was like $165 on their site/Amazon ~ that'll be my next drive purchase.) Still, I personally run a hybrid system for safety, I've got 2 like 10 year old WD's that I back up everything on (including Windows images - which also saves me from my tinkering heh) but they're pretty much just backup drives. All my games and programs are on the SSD.
> 
> I won't buy a Samsung SSD though, they seem to have massive compatibility problems... Compatibility flaws == deal breaker for me.
> 
> Now, if you want speed, then check out the M.2 SSDs; 1.5k write/1k read ~nod nod~ Spendy, but ALL the warp drive. ( Review w/tests: http://news.softpedia.com/news/kingston-hyperx-predator-480gb-m-2-pcie-ssd-review-when-nothing-matters-more-than-speed-486361.shtml Also as a note, the new x99 class MB's come with M.2 onboard so you don't even need the expansion PCIe card. See my next MB purchase: http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99E_WS/overview/ [Edit oops forgot it's not on the Deluxe, second Edit, /THIS/ Deluxe http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97DELUXENFC_WLC/overview/ heh])


ssd's cost to much and there to small, i struggle for space on my 300gb drive, i got a 1tb drive i used to back up in, but its only got 3gb of space left on it (and i do try and delete anything i dont want) and look at it like this, drive i currnelty have, still really freaken fast, 25$used or 60 new and i could get another one, +300gb of a reliable high performance drive or cheeps. SSD's are not for me, and like i said at the end of the day, its reliability i care about. btw you know whats funny since were talking aobut ram disk? i got a program that i use to convert a chuck of my ram to a fromatable disk. then in vital box i move a disk imige to the ram disk and re mount it and its like HOLY **** 4GB/s DO YOU EVEN LIFT? combine that with 24threads of 3.8ghz and xp's boot is just BAM, desktop! but i set 8gb of ram to drive, 4gb to vbox and that gives me 6gb still left to the system to have 40 tabs open in chrome







also theres no point of me doing the ram drive thing, i have been running a vitral box of windows 98 to play sim-city 2000, (witch cant run on xp) and windows 98 with one core and my sas drive being held back, still takes under 2 seconds to boot... also i got windows 98 to work with 2gb of ram so im proud of that! no more reserving all the ram for the os after 512mb!


----------



## snipekill2445

Running windows 8, takes around 10 seconds to boot


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Current SSD's do not require nor have a battery(Some have high capacity caps to allow a cache flush to nand on a power out). The nand will hold data without power just like a flash drive or memory card.
> 
> If left powered for a rather long time, data corruption could be an issue(but it varies from drive to drive).
> 
> I too would have a hard time going back to a hard drive for my OS. Even my Windows 10 beta got an ssd because even a fairly fast hard drive was noticeably slower(making it hard to compare performance with my Windows 7 setup).
> 
> This does not mean SSD's give you higher FPS in games or anything and some games make all users wait until the last player loads. MMO users(or any game that loads data on the fly) should have shorter loading pauses because of the fast random access times on SSDs


trust me i know how importent hdd speed its, i got slow with my fast, i got windows 8 installed on a 250gb 5400rpm sata drive and let me tell you GOD AWFUL, i beched the drive out at 12MB/s and its sata 3.0. and thats why rpm's is so freaken important! i cant play battle filed 4 on that drive because freezes every 5 seconds to load chucks of the map or a new sound. in need for speed undercover i can actuly drive faster then the map can load and i will see just skybox followed by a 10 second freeze. i never fixed the problem because, 1 i got the drive and im gonna use it, 2 i dont use windows 8 a whole lot, just been using it to get me by till i can afford a not horrible sas controller. my hp smart array is actually messing windows making applications crash and causing instabilitys, and since every component including the hard drive was swapped, boils down to that freaken controller i got for 5$ on ebay. when most controllers are 150-300$ guess i got what i paid for.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> Well my trusty S2 headphones cable broke inside where the cable splits to go to each headphone, so i found some old headphone wires and got a jack from Jaycar and rewired the drives without cutting into the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ghetto?
> 
> I put super glue on the wires after a soldered then so it does not short out, then hot glued it all in place.
> 
> 
> More hot glue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and before anyone ask i only had yellow shrink tube on me at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There working!


what the hell? 4 pins? is the some kind of proprietary connector for a second coil on the head phones or something? thats defiantly a odd one, so what is this "s2" you speak of? because that is seriously vaig, and what dose that extra pin do? i just cant think of a piratical reason for 4pins on a head phone unless they were gonna try going for independent grounds, but that would make them only work with what ever was built for it.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I've been 40C for a week and it'll be 40C for two more weeks so this is how I tolerate summer from now on...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ---snip---
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just screwed an 800RPM GlideStream to a ripped off fan mesh, stuck it to a candy box full of spare change using some HDD magnets, wrapped a sock around the candy box to eliminate vibrations and hooked it up to the little one since that thing runs 0/24. Works well enough.
> 
> Also, my new intake filter:
> 
> 
> 
> I took a dead fan, ripped the motor and it's supports out, left just the frame. Then I took a range hood filter, sandwiched it between two 120mm grills, screwed it to the frame and secured a fan to that thing with twist ties.
> 
> And the little one's current cooling:
> 
> 
> 
> Ran out of MX-2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> try guessing whitch motherboard it came from
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gigabyte EP45T-Extreme?
Click to expand...

If you dump your sock into water first, then the evaporation will make the air feel cooler


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Ghetto Mod Mic . The microphone I took it from a Steelseries 4H
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 question... how can you stand wearing headphones for extended periods of time? don't they make your ears sweat to the point it starts dripping from you after like 30min? and ear buds make me ears super itchy so i don't like them either... guss its also time i show how i ghetto my mic *gets camra*
> 
> So dumpster diving at my local church with a friend we found a box if audio broadcasting equipment, and 2 of the notable things was a really nice, really heavy mic, and a Decibel Meter.
> but thwere was 2 problems with mic, inner layer of foam decentagrated, sock was solution, no hard P's. but do discover that i had to fix this, it had one of those blanched audio connectors, and i knew a mixer for one of those was over 100$, so instead i took the mic apart, hallowed out its insides and sodlerd my own wires from the mic to a 3.5mm jack pulled off a board from my scrap board box.
> 
> 
> but there was one problem, i felt like a amusement park announcer because to talk in game i had to drop my mouse, pick of my mic, and talk with other hand. and even though it felt awesome, in BLR that will get you killed unless you wait till the respwan screen. so when i moved my setup to the basement i realized my newly mounted steering wheel's grips were perfect for holding my mic at chin level. so to talk now i just lower my head like 2 inches and pres talk key. witch dose not get me killed. and because its mic that only works at close range, i can have my sound system rattling the house apart and my mic would barley pick up anything so wOOO! and if my soundsystem is on like half volume it cant pick up any background noise.


----------



## RnRollie

The other day, while perusing one of *those* peculiar shops, -you know the ones: the ones which are like a Swedish Furniture shop.. but on an even lower budget (basically one step above dumpster diving) - i came across this: a banana display/holder

Now there are only TWO reasons i can think of why one would buy something like this:

1. You have more money as common sense and want to convince a potential parter that you are a true metrosexual man with great taste and no qualms about the equalness of women in the modern professional society and have watched too many episodes of "Friends" & "Sex and the city" _(and you suspect yourself being possibly gay, but dont know how to find out if you are or not)_

2. As a holder for a headset.

Now, i plugged "banana display headset stand" into google and found out it has been done before... so i didn't have that an original idea









But of course i can still share the idea .. kudos to whoever came up with it first









 = 

.


----------



## Slay

That is genuinely the best headset holder i've ever seen. Now to buy tons of these for 3$ a piece and sell them as dedicated headphone stands for 100$.


----------



## Nukemaster

It is a great stand.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> This isn't ghetto from what i am seeing, but i would like to see a build log


trust me, if it uses 3/4" plywood, hinges, and latches, it's gonna be ghetto.
... As long as I do it.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Ghetto Mod Mic . The microphone I took it from a Steelseries 4H
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 question... how can you stand wearing headphones for extended periods of time? don't they make your ears sweat to the point it starts dripping from you after like 30min? and ear buds make me ears super itchy so i don't like them either... guss its also time i show how i ghetto my mic *gets camra*]


The Beyerdynamics DT235 are really light, most of the of the weight is held by the headband, so don't add so much pressure in the ears and has cloth pads so the sweat its absorbed and they are washable too (after a while gets a bit nasty)....
A key for a comfortable headphone IMO is the design of the head-band and earpads.

If you need some recommendation or info just PM me:thumb:


----------



## snipekill2445

I use Ukulele wall hangers to hold me headphones


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I use Ukulele wall hangers to hold me headphones


Without pictures, it didn't happen.


----------



## Pawelr98

Replaced the radiator of RAID controller in a server that I got for free from my uncle.

On left you have the original radiator.


----------



## snipekill2445




----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*


Thank you!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> what the hell? 4 pins? is the some kind of proprietary connector for a second coil on the head phones or something? thats defiantly a odd one, so what is this "s2" you speak of? because that is seriously vaig, and what dose that extra pin do? i just cant think of a piratical reason for 4pins on a head phone unless they were gonna try going for independent grounds, but that would make them only work with what ever was built for it.


TRRS jacks are commonly used for mobile devices to give the mic a connector on the same sized plug(almost all phones take and use this type of plug now).

By S2 i am guessing Samsung Galaxy S2


----------



## unknown601

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> what the hell? 4 pins? is the some kind of proprietary connector for a second coil on the head phones or something? thats defiantly a odd one, so what is this "s2" you speak of? because that is seriously vaig, and what dose that extra pin do? i just cant think of a piratical reason for 4pins on a head phone unless they were gonna try going for independent grounds, but that would make them only work with what ever was built for it.


There Samsung galaxy s2 headphones and yes the 4th pole is mice, i did not have a mic cable so i just left it disconnected.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> There is like /zero/ comparison between SSD and mechanical HDD for like anything but capacity. SSD's are smaller, faster, and better in just about every way I think. I will /never/ go back to a mechanical HDD boot system heh I've got Crucial SSD's right now that are pretty much flawless; win 7 64 boots in 3 seconds on my 2GHz mini ITX w/8gb ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, the conventional school of thought is/was that SSD's need to be replaced every like 5 years, but that appears to be getting outdated. SanDisk now offers a *10 year* warrantee on their Extreme Pro SSD's (128gb-1tb sizes if I recall, and the 240gb was like $165 on their site/Amazon ~ that'll be my next drive purchase.) Still, I personally run a hybrid system for safety, I've got 2 like 10 year old WD's that I back up everything on (including Windows images - which also saves me from my tinkering heh) but they're pretty much just backup drives. All my games and programs are on the SSD.
> 
> I won't buy a Samsung SSD though, they seem to have massive compatibility problems... Compatibility flaws == deal breaker for me.
> 
> Now, if you want speed, then check out the M.2 SSDs; 1.5k write/1k read ~nod nod~ Spendy, but ALL the warp drive. ( Review w/tests: http://news.softpedia.com/news/kingston-hyperx-predator-480gb-m-2-pcie-ssd-review-when-nothing-matters-more-than-speed-486361.shtml Also as a note, the new x99 class MB's come with M.2 onboard so you don't even need the expansion PCIe card. See my next MB purchase: http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99E_WS/overview/ [Edit oops forgot it's not on the Deluxe, second Edit, /THIS/ Deluxe http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z97DELUXENFC_WLC/overview/ heh])
> 
> 
> 
> ssd's cost to much and there to small, i struggle for space on my 300gb drive, i got a 1tb drive i used to back up in, but its only got 3gb of space left on it (and i do try and delete anything i dont want) and look at it like this, drive i currnelty have, still really freaken fast, 25$used or 60 new and i could get another one, +300gb of a reliable high performance drive or cheeps. SSD's are not for me, and like i said at the end of the day, its reliability i care about. btw you know whats funny since were talking aobut ram disk? i got a program that i use to convert a chuck of my ram to a fromatable disk. then in vital box i move a disk imige to the ram disk and re mount it and its like HOLY **** 4GB/s DO YOU EVEN LIFT? combine that with 24threads of 3.8ghz and xp's boot is just BAM, desktop! but i set 8gb of ram to drive, 4gb to vbox and that gives me 6gb still left to the system to have 40 tabs open in chrome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also theres no point of me doing the ram drive thing, i have been running a vitral box of windows 98 to play sim-city 2000, (witch cant run on xp) and windows 98 with one core and my sas drive being held back, still takes under 2 seconds to boot... also i got windows 98 to work with 2gb of ram so im proud of that! no more reserving all the ram for the os after 512mb!
Click to expand...

1 they just made a 2tb ssd - thats not big enough ( i mean for consumers )

2 i think you are doing it wrong,

you dont use your SSD for storage you boot off of it, you still have your hard drives for storage, heck in my basement now i have a nas 6x4tb hdds (~10tb useable - could do more but i like redundancy )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> That is genuinely the best headset holder i've ever seen. Now to buy tons of these for 3$ a piece and sell them as dedicated headphone stands for 100$.


hahaha


----------



## snipekill2445

I'm slowly running out of storage


----------



## Nukemaster

I can not wait for larger hard drives to come on sale(need 2 since I like to have an external for backup[2 for pictures]), I could use some extra storage in my media center system.

I need to put Onedrive or similar to use to have some offsite backup(one fire could take it all regardless of backups).


----------



## Liranan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I'm slowly running out of storage


LOL I have 6TB and I'm running out.


----------



## snipekill2445

Most of my stuff is just games, all 1.24tb of em


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> The Beyerdynamics DT235 are really light, most of the of the weight is held by the headband, so don't add so much pressure in the ears and has cloth pads so the sweat its absorbed and they are washable too (after a while gets a bit nasty)....
> A key for a comfortable headphone IMO is the design of the head-band and earpads.
> 
> If you need some recommendation or info just PM me:thumb:


nah, i could never do headphones, ontop of what i said before, this is the big one, i need to feel my bass. bass over headphones vs bass from a sub is night and day. and i cant stand to even keep a hat on unless its blow 10F.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> TRRS jacks are commonly used for mobile devices to give the mic a connector on the same sized plug(almost all phones take and use this type of plug now).
> 
> By S2 i am guessing Samsung Galaxy S2


looked it up, looks like one oh those iphones. i dont understand the appeal of a cell phone, unless you cant afford a desktop and thats all you can get.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> There Samsung galaxy s2 headphones and yes the 4th pole is mice, i did not have a mic cable so i just left it disconnected.


why did they just use 2 jacks like everything else. i would be pissed if my laptop has less than 3 audio jacks on it.


----------



## Slay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> looked it up, looks like one oh those iphones. *i dont understand the appeal of a cell phone*, unless you cant afford a desktop and thats all you can get.


are you life basement?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> are you life basement?


not quite, i spend time out in the woods to, but when i leave the house i dont need to bring my technology with me unless im going out of state.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Most of my stuff is just games, all 1.24tb of em


here is my constantly lowering hdd space. and i use ram drive mounted as a physical disk in vital box for communicating quickly with windows 98. im trying to see if i can get chrome and direct x 10 to work on it.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> ... i dont understand the appeal of a cell phone, unless you cant afford a desktop and thats all you can get.


Right, if a 50' cord is too short for your phone, you don't need a phone for where you're going!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

The banana holder isnt a status symbol and had nothing to do with displaying your bananas...the purpose is to simulate the natural position of them on the tree with air able to escape all sides (they expel carbon dioxide after being treated with chemical which I have to look up the name of) which is why they ripen so quickly...this allows them to ripen more evenly when on the stand...


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> looked it up, looks like one oh those iphones. i dont understand the appeal of a cell phone, unless you cant afford a desktop and thats all you can get.


I do not even own nor want a cellular phone(just do not need it), but I would never say users of phones that can cost more than a cheap desktop can not afford a computer or any other personal insult(who cares what other users can and can not afford) to such users.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> why did they just use 2 jacks like everything else. i would be pissed if my laptop has less than 3 audio jacks on it.


The S2 is not a laptop. Over time analog audio jacks(aside from a single one for headphones and maybe one for a mic) are being phased out already for digital interfaces. Is it better? who knows(depends on the DAC in your receiver), Does it allow more copy protection? yes so it will be the standard in no time. I mean can you buy a bluray player with component out for your old TV anymore?(not so easy and most times the video will be downscaled well below the 1080i that component can do)


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> are you life basement?
> 
> 
> 
> not quite, i spend time out in the woods to, but when i leave the house i dont need to bring my technology with me unless im going out of state.
Click to expand...

I have an ancient dumb-as-rocks cell phone (I think it's Fred Flintstone hand-me-down) I carry with me for emergencies that I don't even turn on until I actually go to use it (which is rare). I wouldn't mind having a smart phone but I don't really need one nor do I (and my retirement income) need the big monthly bill that goes with them.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Whenever I needed a cell phone it didn't work due to not having service in the area. Luckily I haven't been in any dangerous situations yet.


----------



## CS14

Back again with something a little different from my last post with a 120mm fan instead of an 80mm fan over my VRMs. Had more room to use it now that I got my H75 up and running. Didn't have zip-ties (still) so improvised with wires again:





Cba to do proper cable management in this case anymore


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CS14*
> 
> Back again with something a little different from my last post with a 120mm fan instead of an 80mm fan over my VRMs. Had more room to use it now that I got my H75 up and running. Didn't have zip-ties (still) so improvised with wires again:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2528519/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2528520/width/350/height/700
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2528521/width/350/height/700
> 
> Cba to do proper cable management in this case anymore


I like it.

I was a fan of doing VRM cooling this way(think of that as a rear fan), but it was not quite ghetto(no zip ties)


----------



## CS14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I like it.
> 
> I was a fan of doing VRM cooling this way(think of that as a rear fan), but it was not quite ghetto(no zip ties)


What's that little piece you used in the corner to attach it with a screw? I'd love to have something like that going to look neater.


----------



## Nukemaster

All Round Strapping.


I use it for everything(Even as a better than nothing TO220 heatsink), but be warned it can rust, they make stainless stuff too, but I was cheap.

First got it for this(about 2010).



It also backs the cardboard(and holds the fan in place to vent out the top of the case) in this, but it was only useful when I had 2 hard drives in the case. Now with only SSD's I do not need it anymore.


More cardboard


----------



## Werne

So I found this stuff in my magic box:



I soldered some wires to the speaker and tested it, thing actually worked and sounded fine to boot. I wanted to use the box for keeping screws and stuff in it but seeing as how the speaker actually worked, I decided to put the box to better use. So after some not-so-careful measuring, a half-arsed cutting job and screwing the speaker in, this is what I came up with:




PC doesn't like the speaker, it's too quiet and I sure as hell ain't making an amp for this thing. My phone loves it though which is good since it's speaker sucks. Now I can finally listen to music on the thing without it sounding as if someone is skinning live cats with a dull pocket knife.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


YIFFY Disk?


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> So I found this stuff in my magic box:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2527222/width/500/height/1000
> 
> I soldered some wires to the speaker and tested it, thing actually worked and sounded fine to boot. I wanted to use the box for keeping screws and stuff in it but seeing as how the speaker actually worked, I decided to put the box to better use. So after some not-so-careful measuring, a half-arsed cutting job and screwing the speaker in, this is what I came up with:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2527233/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2527234/width/500/height/1000
> 
> PC doesn't like the speaker, it's too quiet and I sure as hell ain't making an amp for this thing. My phone loves it though which is good since it's speaker sucks. Now I can finally listen to music on the thing without it sounding as if someone is skinning live cats with a dull pocket knife.


Great. mod. Love the extra long bolts(on 3 of the 4). I did that when I was younger with some TV speakers.

Computers do not tend to drive low impedance loads well(in fact some onboard cards already seem to have a 10-100ohm resistor inline with that output that would make things that much worse.)

I am kind of surprised your phone drives it so well.

Very cheap and simple Dip8 power amps could give you a full 150-300mW into that thing :0 off a 9 volt battery.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> YIFFY Disk?


And lots of it(did not even know "double-U Tee Eff[take that OCN built in censor]" that was).


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> looked it up, looks like one oh those iphones. *i dont understand the appeal of a cell phone*, unless you cant afford a desktop and thats all you can get.
> 
> 
> 
> are you life basement?
Click to expand...

Meanwhile I purchased a phone little more than 1 year ago.
But I don't have any SIM card in it. I use it as PDA (PSP-3004 was not cutting it anymore).

What is more interesting is that I was one of the first people in class who had a phone (that was in 2007 IIRC) but I stopped using the phone cause I didn't have the need for it back then.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> So I found this stuff in my magic box:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2527222/width/500/height/1000
> 
> I soldered some wires to the speaker and tested it, thing actually worked and sounded fine to boot. I wanted to use the box for keeping screws and stuff in it but seeing as how the speaker actually worked, I decided to put the box to better use. So after some not-so-careful measuring, a half-arsed cutting job and screwing the speaker in, this is what I came up with:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2527233/width/500/height/1000
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2527234/width/500/height/1000
> 
> PC doesn't like the speaker, it's too quiet and I sure as hell ain't making an amp for this thing. My phone loves it though which is good since it's speaker sucks. Now I can finally listen to music on the thing without it sounding as if someone is skinning live cats with a dull pocket knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YIFFY Disk?


I can just imagine the look on someone's face when they see you plug your phone into it.

YIFFY? Lots and lots of yiffy pics? Probably just a random name he gave it so he could remember what it's called.


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Great. mod. Love the extra long bolts(on 3 of the 4). I did that when I was younger with some TV speakers.
> 
> Computers do not tend to drive low impedance loads well(in fact some onboard cards already seem to have a 10-100ohm resistor inline with that output that would make things that much worse.)
> 
> I am kind of surprised your phone drives it so well.
> 
> Very cheap and simple Dip8 power amps could give you a full 150-300mW into that thing :0 off a 9 volt battery.


I ran out of short bolts so I just grabbed the long 4mm ones, though I'm pretty sure I'll need them later for something else. I should buy more screws.

And yeah, PCs are bad at driving speakers and need amps. That sucks, it would save me a lot of time and effort if it would just work with no amp. And the phone, I was honestly surprised, all the phones I used couldn't even drive headphones right but that X8 has a pretty solid output. I'm not a big fan of smartphones but as long as it plays music well, I can tolerate it. Now if only I could replace it's integrated speaker with one that wasn't soaked in kiddie juice...

Dip8's, I have two but I won't be making an amp for that thing, I have other plans. I'm thinking of making a VESA rig one of these days so I'll need an amp for embedded monitor speakers I'll be making. Or I could make an amp for the much cooler looking hard drive speakers. Tough choice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> And lots of it(did not even know "double-U Tee Eff[take that OCN built in censor]" that was).


Damn, I didn't even notice the usage, that's a lot of... something.

The only thing I managed to fill a 1TB drive with is junk, mainly development textures for my models which take up a ton of space. I do a bunch of test renders and got several 4K texture maps of each map type which tends to add up to quite a bit. I make an axe for Skyrim and all of a sudden my hard drive is full to the brim, then goes back to normal once I get rid of that stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I can just imagine the look on someone's face when they see you plug your phone into it.


Actually, people who know me find things like this quite normal. Kinda concerning when I think about it.


----------



## snipekill2445

So I got the little fan I ordered to stick over my VRMs, turns out it's controlled by a temperature sensor,

sooo I'm gonna have to order another one that I can actually control


----------



## CS14

Anyone got an idea as to how I can rig the H75 to fit the rear exhaust of my Thermaltake V3? I would try and move it to different holes like I have done with other fans but I removed the back mesh (w/e you call it) back when I had my 212+ for less restricted air flow. The H75 sides make it so that it's a few mm short of the holes due to the top of the case.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CS14*
> 
> Anyone got an idea as to how I can rig the H75 to fit the rear exhaust of my Thermaltake V3? I would try and move it to different holes like I have done with other fans but I removed the back mesh (w/e you call it) back when I had my 212+ for less restricted air flow. The H75 sides make it so that it's a few mm short of the holes due to the top of the case.


Id be really tempted to just shift the whole rad down, punch new holes through the case backplate for it there, and then drop in a supporting bar of some kind at the top so it doesnt fall over. little cut to make sure none of the fan is blocked, zipties and maybe some JB weld to complete the ghetto mod


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I have an ancient dumb-as-rocks cell phone (I think it's Fred Flintstone hand-me-down) I carry with me for emergencies that I don't even turn on until I actually go to use it (which is rare). I wouldn't mind having a smart phone but I don't really need one nor do I (and my retirement income) need the big monthly bill that goes with them.


I could see not needing a smart phone if someone is retired


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JTHMfreak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I have an ancient dumb-as-rocks cell phone (I think it's Fred Flintstone hand-me-down) I carry with me for emergencies that I don't even turn on until I actually go to use it (which is rare). I wouldn't mind having a smart phone but I don't really need one nor do I (and my retirement income) need the big monthly bill that goes with them.
> 
> 
> 
> I could see not needing a smart phone if someone is retired
Click to expand...

I didn't need a smart phone before I retired, either.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I didn't need a smart phone before I retired, either.


I remember when I was young and didn't see the point in having a phone, until I started working,

which was still very young lol


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I didn't need a smart phone before I retired, either.


Well if you're working and going different places it's nice to have a phone that also doubles as a mobile media center, gps, email, traffic updates on the fly, etc etc. But I digress, as you stayed you are retired that tells me we have about at least thirty years age difference between us, and I am aware that the generations before me are less reliant on technology than my generation is.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

When I was still working my last job before they ticked me off one time too many, I deliberately didn't give them my cell phone number. When they questioned me on not having one, I asked them if they were going to pay for it. That got them off my case. There are times when being incommunicado has its advantages. If I wasn't on the clock, I didn't want to be bothered.


----------



## snipekill2445

My boss used to come to my house...

As a dairy farmer, we're basically given houses to use while we work for the farm, and if you leave the job you leave the house.

He stopped coming to the house after some words I had with him though (I'm 100kg) ....


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> My boss used to come to my house...
> 
> As a dairy farmer, we're basically given houses to use while we work for the farm, and if you leave the job you leave the house.
> 
> He stopped coming to the house after some words I had with him though (I'm 100kg) ....


Im 88kg and id woop you, simply cos im an Aussie


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I do not even own nor want a cellular phone(just do not need it), but I would never say users of phones that can cost more than a cheap desktop can not afford a computer or any other personal insult(who cares what other users can and can not afford) to such users.
> The S2 is not a laptop. Over time analog audio jacks(aside from a single one for headphones and maybe one for a mic) are being phased out already for digital interfaces. Is it better? who knows(depends on the DAC in your receiver), Does it allow more copy protection? yes so it will be the standard in no time. I mean can you buy a bluray player with component out for your old TV anymore?(not so easy and most times the video will be downscaled well below the 1080i that component can do)


1 i know cheep cell phones are like 20$
2 most high power amps dont have any fancy digital inputs or audio processing, its just pain as day analog usually threw a RCA jack. i got 1 amp that has thoes fancy things, and its only 120w8ohm 4channel, witch makes it about useless because its rare i run into a speaker higher than 4ohms.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I have an ancient dumb-as-rocks cell phone (I think it's Fred Flintstone hand-me-down) I carry with me for emergencies that I don't even turn on until I actually go to use it (which is rare). I wouldn't mind having a smart phone but I don't really need one nor do I (and my retirement income) need the big monthly bill that goes with them.


i used to be able to use pay phones in an emergency, but some ass whole took them all out! now if its an emergency i just wait till i get to the nearest house.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> So I found this stuff in my magic box:
> 
> 
> 
> I soldered some wires to the speaker and tested it, thing actually worked and sounded fine to boot. I wanted to use the box for keeping screws and stuff in it but seeing as how the speaker actually worked, I decided to put the box to better use. So after some not-so-careful measuring, a half-arsed cutting job and screwing the speaker in, this is what I came up with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PC doesn't like the speaker, it's too quiet and I sure as hell ain't making an amp for this thing. My phone loves it though which is good since it's speaker sucks. Now I can finally listen to music on the thing without it sounding as if someone is skinning live cats with a dull pocket knife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> YIFFY Disk?


dont worry, its not all porn. only a few thousand files or so.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I can just imagine the look on someone's face when they see you plug your phone into it.
> 
> YIFFY? Lots and lots of yiffy pics? Probably just a random name he gave it so he could remember what it's called.


was called the yiffy disk because porn was the first thing the drive was used for. my banged up laptop is named the "Cloptop" for a similar reason.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I remember when I was young and didn't see the point in having a phone, until I started working,
> 
> which was still very young lol


how old are you? im 21 and i gots a job but that dose not make me need a smart phone, theirs this hot new thing called land lines. if im at work well my boss could just talk to me in person. now that i think of it i have never talked to him over the phone.... made me cut my Mohawk, pennstate is so fussy.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> My boss used to come to my house...
> 
> As a dairy farmer, we're basically given houses to use while we work for the farm, and if you leave the job you leave the house.
> 
> He stopped coming to the house after some words I had with him though (I'm 100kg) ....


whats that in LBS? i know i scar poeple off, im only 5'4" but im 235 Lbs and my shoulders are big for no reason.... actually kept me out of fights because nobody wanted to mess with me after i hit puberty.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Im 88kg and id woop you, simply cos im an Aussie


The 2011 rugby world cup doesn't agree with you


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> The 2011 rugby world cup doesn't agree with you


100kg is about 220 pounds.
We won the cricket world cup and win in pretty much everything vs NZ except the rugby occasionally . AFL is better than rugby anyways. For everyone else Aussies and Kiwis are old rivals, since kiwis wish NZ was a part of Australia.


----------



## RockeyDA

OK, time for some reall ghetto posting!
so i got a super everdrive as a gift from my father, was just the flash cart by it slef so i was on my own aobut a case for it, i figured i was gonna just pop open a snes game like i did with my mega drive ever drive, but noooooooooo, failed attempts of removing the bit without the proper tools did not work like it did on Genesis .
at this point i just riped the dang thing open.


since i already half assed it i just took a pair of pliers and riped a spot out for the sd card.


and i did not plan on this being perment so i did not glue it or put lable on it, when i get more wood (witch i still dont have!) i want to make a wooden cart to go with the wsnes. so good ole kentucky chrome was my weapon of choise!

And there i go, a ugly and lazy but fully functional flash cart, time for rom hacks!


oh, and my birthday was a few days ago and i had a big party over the week end, and one of my friends got me this un expected gift, but at a good time, because another friend was testing games out in my snes a month ago and i did not know the terminals of her games were caked with thick green corrosion, completely destroyed the cartage slot of my snes. and for the most part this thing seems like the real deal, works with games with fx chips and every game i have is spot on. but mouse dose not works in marrio paint, or at least i thought, if i connect the A/V cables the mouse starts working. i dobut it is, but this thing seems like a real snes, the retron 3 i can tell that its imitation hardware, especially with audio.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> For everyone else Aussies and Kiwis are old rivals, since kiwis wish NZ was a part of Australia.


But if we were part of Australia I couldn't have a blow off valve on my subaru









Actually I wouldn't of been able to afford my subaru in the first place..


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> But if we were part of Australia I couldn't have a blow off valve on my subaru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I wouldn't of been able to afford my subaru in the first place..


True that! Our government sucks big time!


----------



## RockeyDA

meanwhile in america... trucks guns, and exploding target fun!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> The banana holder isnt a status symbol and had nothing to do with displaying your bananas...the purpose is to simulate the natural position of them on the tree with air able to escape all sides (they expel carbon dioxide after being treated with chemical which I have to look up the name of) which is why they ripen so quickly...this allows them to ripen more evenly when on the stand...


While i accept that (although it resembles a bit like it is a marketing/sales pitch), i'ld liek to point out that the banana holder holds the bananas upside-down compared to their natural position


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> meanwhile in america... trucks guns, and exploding target fun!


Sounds like NZ, only with less freedom


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> But if we were part of Australia I couldn't have a blow off valve on my subaru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I wouldn't of been able to afford my subaru in the first place..
> 
> 
> 
> True that! Our government sucks big time!
Click to expand...

Oz & NZ ... one are descendants of convicts, the others of sheepsh*ggers .. and just a bunch







.
Brittania rules the waves







.

So, meanwhile, back home in Blighty...... OMG








i wanna get out of here, please Oz, please NZ ; let me in, please, please, pretty please


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Oz & NZ ... one are descendants of convicts, the others of sheepsh*ggers .. and just a bunch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Brittania rules the waves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> So, meanwhile, back home in Blighty...... OMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wanna get out of here, please Oz, please NZ ; let me in, please, please, pretty please


befor today i though everybody here was gonna have tv's that output in NTSC-U at 29.97 fps, but judging by the conversations most of you guys use pal and what ever refresh rate it has, because NTSC-U and NTSC-J are the only versions i know of, i assume you only get those signals in murica and japan.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> befor today i though everybody here was gonna have tv's that output in NTSC-U at 29.97 fps, but judging by the conversations most of you guys use pal and what ever refresh rate it has, because NTSC-U and NTSC-J are the only versions i know of, i assume you only get those signals in murica and japan.


Yeah all consoles are PAL here. I think in some cases PAL operates max speed 50z but ntsc-x is 60Hz. it sucks because older pal games are so much harder to find!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> nah, i could never do headphones, ontop of what i said before, this is the big one, i need to feel my bass. bass over headphones vs bass from a sub is night and day. and i cant stand to even keep a hat on unless its blow 10F.


I can't wear a headset either so I made my own headset; pair of good earbuds and a good mic:


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> But if we were part of Australia I couldn't have a blow off valve on my subaru
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I wouldn't of been able to afford my subaru in the first place..


Even if it's blowing off into the exhaust before the cat?


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Wanted to upgrade my HTPC's PSU fan with something really inaudible, but didn't have at home anyhing slim enough.
So I took a Noctua NF-A6x25 laying around and found a way to mount it anyway











The idea was to use the proper bits but the other way, *so I mounted the fan outside the PSU*











 

And just to be sure about quietness, added the ultra quiet-cable



Last thing to do, enlarge the hole in the back because the case was obstructing the fan holes





Finished product ^^



Note one of the PSU mounting holes used to run the cable through the case and inside the acutal PSU


----------



## Jared2608

Does attaching a fan to your case panel at an angle with cable ties because it's the wrong size for vents count as Ghetto Rigging?


----------



## snipekill2445

The fan I double sided taped to the vrms in on a angle, so I'd say so
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Even if it's blowing off into the exhaust before the cat?


Guess you're thinking of the waste gate, I've got a VTA BOV (the one that makes noise)

And no catalytic converters


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Herp. Yes I was thinking of the waste gate. You don't have catalytic converters but you can't have a blow off valve? What the?

I'm not sure if it has changed recently, the emission rules out in California are so strict you can't have an intake on your car that is not c.a.r.b. certified. For example, you can't replace you stock bulky air box with a simple pipe and cone filter without blowing money just to get one that's certified. I think it applies to catback exhausts as well.


----------



## snipekill2445

No we're allowed to do anything to our cars, I mean anything, if you want to cut a mini in half, and stick a motorbike to the back of it, you can


----------



## lurker2501

Dual 420 rads and a front mounted PSU.


----------



## RockeyDA

so my dad noticed one of my old magazines and was shocked i had it. over the years i have collected older paper work i have found in dumpsters. as i was pulling my collection out of boxes my dad was feaking out going OMG HOW DID YOU GET THIS!... i also got a box of 51/4 diskettes as well. but this is a good chuck of my collection.


----------



## RockeyDA

So today my dad pulls up with the car filled with old computers and says "happy birthday"


most of them i would say aren't something to special even for there time, most have larger hard drives than they should. who the hell has a 80gb drive for windows ME, back then i had a 4GB.
but either way this tower has my atetion and im aobut to fire it up as i type this, rather exsited aobut this one, 2x petium !!! 550mhz, not exons, did not know was possible to use 2 desktop cpu's in same motherbord.


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So today my dad pulls up with the car filled with old computers and says "happy birthday"
> 
> 
> most of them i would say aren't something to special even for there time, most have larger hard drives than they should. who the hell has a 80gb drive for windows ME, back then i had a 4GB.
> but either way this tower has my atetion and im aobut to fire it up as i type this, rather exsited aobut this one, 2x petium !!! 550mhz, not exons, did not know was possible to use 2 desktop cpu's in same motherbord.


So jelly about that last one.

I've got a Slot 1 P3 800Mhz running my router. I wonder how it'd perform with 2x P3 550Mhz CPUs.


----------



## HoFattoSoloCosi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> This would be so much more fun if you would use a +8000 RPM Delta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: (Reposted) picture: not for the faint at heart - click at your own risk!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


*LOL* fortunately the idea was exactly the opposite, to reduce the noise ^^ Now with the low noise cable in series the fan is running up to max 2000rpm and is extremely quiet! Not as exiting as a delta fan, but surely more effective (and safe)


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> So today my dad pulls up with the car filled with old computers and says "happy birthday"
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2530528/width/500/height/1000
> 
> most of them i would say aren't something to special even for there time, most have larger hard drives than they should. who the hell has a 80gb drive for windows ME, back then i had a 4GB.
> but either way this tower has my atetion and im aobut to fire it up as i type this, rather exsited aobut this one, 2x petium !!! 550mhz, not exons, did not know was possible to use 2 desktop cpu's in same motherbord.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2530531/width/500/height/1000


I see some old HP's


----------



## snipekill2445

Finally got a fan to cooool my vrms, put the other one back there to, cool the pump or something i guess lol


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> So jelly about that last one.
> 
> I've got a Slot 1 P3 800Mhz running my router. I wonder how it'd perform with 2x P3 550Mhz CPUs.


this pc is bad azz, gonna make short vid soon of its awsomness, made in 97, bios sais made in usa on power up, and its got 1GB OF RAM!!!!! back when i got my first pentum 4 pc i had 256mb. 1gb on a pc made in 97, some high end stuff right here. i decided to play around with windows whistler since this pc is old enough to be compatible but fast enough to run smoothly.(no sound card, gonna put my soundblaster awe64 ISA card in this beast! also gpu is a ATI Rage 3D 8mb i think)
oh and worst AM bios ever, it looks like im using windows 3.1 when im trying to change boot order. hoping to flash with normal non click am bios, if can find one for this MB. also its disabled by default, but it has teh usb and supports keyboard and mouse from it... but you know me, i got a serial mouse and a older keyboard with an adapter to make it ps/2
*****EDIT****
also power supply was dead. and its one of those transitional motherboards from between the era of the 20pin connector and the p1 p2 and p3 connectors. lucly had my trusty old power man 300w still working(have pushed that psu to limit buy running a modern rig with a gtx480 on it for over a year, mods were done to keep it from overheating, after all that abuse still reliable







)

oh, and i just love the case, wish i had all of it, big heavy rugged steal with a made in usa sticker on the frame. used to have a bunch like this one but got left at my last house.


----------



## Mega Man

It sounds like a server


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Finally got a fan to cooool my vrms, put the other one back there to, cool the pump or something i guess lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So I see I'm not the only one with VRM issues on the UD3 board









I've given up on it's horrible overheating (even my northbrdige goes up to 50C, I can't even run proper crossfire of my 290s, so I took one out while waiting for my new board), and I've also given up on waiting for AMD ZEN and Intel Broadwell lol.

I hope the new one I ordered, the MSI X99S SLI PLUS + I7 5820K will not have the same problems.

This is how mine looks at the moment:


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I really don't get the thought process. They're designing an overclocking motherboard, but they base the VRM cooling on stock CPU heatsinks.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> ]


No I think you are,

I'm just cooling mine because I don't like how hot they feel, but there aren't any actual problems


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> No I think you are,
> 
> I'm just cooling mine because I don't like how hot they feel, but there aren't any actual problems


I have no problems at stock clocks, but come on, I didn't pay 110€ for the board to run it at stock. It can barely keep the CPU at 4.5GHz and my CPU can do 4,8 even 5,0 but it isn't stable.


----------



## snipekill2445

I'm running at 4.5ghz pretty happily, highest I got was 4.7ghz but didn't bother going further

I think I paid like $100nzd for this board


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I'm running at 4.5ghz pretty happily, highest I got was 4.7ghz but didn't bother going further
> 
> I think I paid like $100nzd for this board


Yours is rev 4.0 where they fixed it. Mine is rev 3.0


----------



## Mega Man

i dont get it, you buy a bargain mobo, then complain that it is bargain !~

as my sig states budget components = budget results


----------



## RockeyDA

here i made a short lil vid on the dull Pentium 3 pc

i wonder if there is a way to overclock this thing.... or fit a agp x8 gpu in it so its not bottled necked by a horrible gpu. or if theres a pci gpu that is not horrible... i like this pc, i wanna do as much with it as i can.
****EDIT***
the gpu i wanted to use, the orignal, and what i ended up puttign in it.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> here i made a short lil vid on the dull Pentium 3 pc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wonder if there is a way to overclock this thing.... or fit a agp x8 gpu in it so its not bottled necked by a horrible gpu. or if theres a pci gpu that is not horrible... i like this pc, i wanna do as much with it as i can.


There is already a video where a guy combines dual P3 with a HD3850 (IIRC) and plays Crysis and other games on it.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> There is already a video where a guy combines dual P3 with a HD3850 (IIRC) and plays Crysis and other games on it.


whats a "HD3850" i never heard of this, looked it up, was a gpu, and was a x8, or 4x either way i could not use it, if i could i would just use my ATI AIW X800


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> whats a "HD3850" i never heard of this, looked it up, was a gpu, and was a x8, or 4x either way i could not use it, if i could i would just use my ATI AIW X800


Not sure if srs.

Anyway, I still have my 3870 and 4850 GPUs. Wife's begging me to offload them.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Not sure if srs.
> 
> Anyway, I still have my 3870 and 4850 GPUs. Wife's begging me to offload them.


yes was srs, i never heard of a gpu like that, i think it was a ati but the most modern ati i ever had was the X800. after that amd took over and i switched to nvidea.


----------



## RockeyDA

i got a lel thats almost like trolling offline.

so i have a lot of crappy old oem computers, one of my firedns had a modern rig in a fancy corsair case that was falling apart, this was the solution!

http://i.imgur.com/h345Ql0.jpg
the front panel is wired up properly and the floppy drive is connected.

http://i.imgur.com/TRqDEy1.jpg

Pentium 3 and windows 98 sticker on the front, gtx 780 in the back! seems legit!


----------



## RockeyDA

anybody know a way around this? vista is upset that this motherboard shuts off like a AT motherboard


----------



## KSIMP88

Pre-install the motherboard driver specific for Vista. You know, that one screen:


Aslo, check your BIOS settings for Power Management.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KSIMP88*
> 
> Pre-install the motherboard driver specific for Vista. You know, that one screen:
> 
> 
> Aslo, check your BIOS settings for Power Management.


the motherboard was maid in 1997, i doubt i can find a driver for it on vista. the motherboard is also not cabealbe of being powered off by the OS, and dose not support s1 or s3 suspension.
i think thats what it is complaining about, but that seems like somthing to small to stop me from using a whole os.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

What if you install the OS using another computer, and then just move the drive to this one?


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> What if you install the OS using another computer, and then just move the drive to this one?


More often than not that leads to a blue screen error.

Windows XP would work, but with no support, I can see why you want to get Vista or newer on that system.

Have you considered playing with some version of Linux on that system?


----------



## LmG

When you just gotta put that 360 rad where it was never meant to go:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## KSIMP88

Well, you will have more problems than that. Do not waste your time.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> What if you install the OS using another computer, and then just move the drive to this one?


gonna try that after i learn how to use this EEPROM prgramer that said it came with drivers and instructions, but did not (jerks) im trying to unbrick a bios on a pc i nolonger need, if i can un brick it im giving the masheen away once i put a cheep gpu like a gtx 280 in it.
but yeah, i totaly forgot how versatile these newer os's are about swapping hardware. i think i did this once to get windows 8 to run on a 3.7ghz Pentium 4 witch did not have some security feachers on the CPU the os required to install. but i also think i remember these newer os's throwing a fit about ide drives with could be a problem. well test by end of week.
*****EDIT******
i did the thing and unbricked the gateway... but had trubble finding bios rom for it becase gateway removed all files on pc's made before at least 2010, i accidently uploaded a acer bios to the chip.... IT WORKED, and now this gateway thinks its a acer. i also broke a pin off the bios chip and soldered a piece of solid core copper wire on it and its good as used.
also i now own a amd pc agin... and its cpu sucks. its a Athlon 64 6000+ and it can not even run gta V.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> More often than not that leads to a blue screen error.
> 
> Windows XP would work, but with no support, I can see why you want to get Vista or newer on that system.
> 
> Have you considered playing with some version of Linux on that system?


yes, but i really wanna see a modern windows based os, most of my distros of linux wont work either, but i did have good run in's with Debian that i put a mate gui on, and mandrake.
honestly, none of this is piratical, i just wanna see what modern things i can do on this old pc that has to many resources. its got twice as much ram as my primary laptop!


----------



## RockeyDA

hay back on the bricked gateway bios, well i kept swapping roms from bords with same chipset, i got one to work from a ecs bord and now overclocking works... i just beat gateway!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> hay back on the bricked gateway bios, well i kept swapping roms from bords with same chipset, i got one to work from a ecs bord and now overclocking works... i just beat gateway!


----------



## Horsemama1956

Not sure it applies but we grabbed a dirt cheap CRT RPTV while we wait for our 60" plasma to come back. The coolant in the blue CRT gun is nasty so I'll be replacing it with baby oil. Coolant for TVs is hard to find in Canada and expensive and I've read mineral oil or baby oil works just as well. I'll post a before and after of the IQ later on.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> hay back on the bricked gateway bios, well i kept swapping roms from bords with same chipset, i got one to work from a ecs bord and now overclocking works... i just beat gateway!


What board do you have and what rom did you use because I have an old gate way with an 5200+ over clocked to 3.6 with nv tune but if you have voltage control I could take it further the board has an nforce chipset and an empty bga socket where the on board gpu would be.


----------



## crashdummy35

Not sure it applies but we grabbed a dirt cheap CRT RPTV while we wait for our 60" plasma to come back. The coolant in the blue CRT gun is nasty so I'll be replacing it with baby oil. Coolant for TVs is hard to find in Canada and expensive and I've read mineral oil or baby oil works just as well. I'll post a before and after of the IQ later on.[/quote]

Nice.

We barely dumped ('bout 9 months ago) an older 73" MITSUBISHI we had outback because it literally just died during a football game one Sunday. There's still a lot to be said about color and picture quality in some of those sets.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> What board do you have and what rom did you use because I have an old gate way with an 5200+ over clocked to 3.6 with nv tune but if you have voltage control I could take it further the board has an nforce chipset and an empty bga socket where the on board gpu would be.


its a gateway dx4300-05.... and even with my bios mods amd overdrive still only lets me change cpu voltage.... and sadly my clock speed changes from the ECS bios dont seem to be registering. gonna slowly keep raising and see if that changes.... know were i could find a list of all motherboard models with a 780g chipset?
also this is the bord i got the bios from... and im now moving on becase the overclock wont work, it either dosnt register or the pc bricks. http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Product/Product_Detail.aspx?detailid=892&CategoryID=1&DetailName=Bios&MenuID=20&LanID=0


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashdummy35*
> 
> Not sure it applies but we grabbed a dirt cheap CRT RPTV while we wait for our 60" plasma to come back. The coolant in the blue CRT gun is nasty so I'll be replacing it with baby oil. Coolant for TVs is hard to find in Canada and expensive and I've read mineral oil or baby oil works just as well. I'll post a before and after of the IQ later on.
> 
> Nice.
> 
> We barely dumped ('bout 9 months ago) an older 73" MITSUBISHI we had outback because it literally just died during a football game one Sunday. There's still a lot to be said about color and picture quality in some of those sets.


rear projection tv's might have kick ass sound systems in them... but never been a fan of there dim blurry picture compared to a traditional crt. but i know the appeal of them is there big and lightweight.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> rear projection tv's might have kick ass sound systems in them... but never been a fan of there dim blurry picture compared to a traditional crt. but i know the appeal of them is there big and lightweight.


rear projection tvs are not light...at all my 46 inch was around 200 lbs...


----------



## Horsemama1956

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> rear projection tv's might have kick ass sound systems in them... but never been a fan of there dim blurry picture compared to a traditional crt. but i know the appeal of them is there big and lightweight.


I've had a few and they were all bright enough. I calibrate so all of my display output similar light output anyways.

The coolant change was a success. The yellow tinge to the whole picture(lack of blue) is now gone. The old coolant looked like apple juice, lol and there were orange chunks of goop throughout the tube. Looks like a brand new TV.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> rear projection tvs are not light...at all my 46 inch was around 200 lbs...


I'll have to second that, we've got a 2001 Sony 61" rear projection TV that's so heavy we're not even going to bother trying to /give/ it away. We would rather pull out the window and throw that thing off the second story home theater than move it lol Was a great TV but the new ones are far too awesome to pass up. It is the last of our 5 TVs to go Plasma and that's mostly because the things too heavy to move hahaha


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'll have to second that, we've got a 2001 Sony 61" rear projection TV that's so heavy we're not even going to bother trying to /give/ it away. We would rather pull out the window and throw that thing off the second story home theater than move it lol Was a great TV but the new ones are far too awesome to pass up. It is the last of our 5 TVs to go Plasma and that's mostly because the things too heavy to move hahaha


yep me and my uncle carried mine up 3 flights if stairs 25 steps each then had to hang it out over the railing to make the turn into my old apartment...then we had to do it in reverse 3 years later...my back hurts just thinking about it


----------



## crashdummy35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'll have to second that, we've got a 2001 Sony 61" rear projection TV that's so heavy we're not even going to bother trying to /give/ it away. *We would rather pull out the window and throw that thing off the second story home theater than move it lol* Was a great TV but the new ones are far too awesome to pass up. It is the last of our 5 TVs to go Plasma and that's mostly because the things too heavy to move hahaha


I lol'ed when I read this.

We had ours out in a shed in the backyard. Some Sundays we'd use a dolly to wheel it out and we'd watch the Texans game while BBQ'ing. My aunt was tossing it out a few years ago and we snagged it for that purpose. They are pretty heavy, no doubt about that.


----------



## RockeyDA

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> rear projection tvs are not light...at all my 46 inch was around 200 lbs...


my 36" crt weighs 400lbs so as far as im concerned rear projection tv's are light... there not that hard to move if you got 2 people. my crt is hard to move with 3. rear projection tv's have much smaller tubes in them so thats alot less lead and glass.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'll have to second that, we've got a 2001 Sony 61" rear projection TV that's so heavy we're not even going to bother trying to /give/ it away. We would rather pull out the window and throw that thing off the second story home theater than move it lol Was a great TV but the new ones are far too awesome to pass up. It is the last of our 5 TVs to go Plasma and that's mostly because the things too heavy to move hahaha


hold up? did you say plasmas are heavy? i got a 50" from 2007 and that thing is only like 100LBS, dont even need help to move that thing. when ever i go over to some ones house for more than 2 days i take it with me. if its less than 2 days i stick with 24"crt for gaming needs, or if im bring older systems such as nes and genesis over ps3 and pc.


----------



## Pawelr98

Koolance CPU-380A (for AMD only) mounted on LGA2011v3.

Temps are really good and mount is pretty solid.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'll have to second that, we've got a 2001 Sony 61" rear projection TV that's so heavy we're not even going to bother trying to /give/ it away. We would rather pull out the window and throw that thing off the second story home theater than move it lol Was a great TV but the new ones are far too awesome to pass up. It is the last of our 5 TVs to go Plasma and that's mostly because the things too heavy to move hahaha
> 
> 
> 
> hold up? did you say plasmas are heavy? i got a 50" from 2007 and that thing is only like 100LBS, dont even need help to move that thing. when ever i go over to some ones house for more than 2 days i take it with me. if its less than 2 days i stick with 24"crt for gaming needs, or if im bring older systems such as nes and genesis over ps3 and pc.
Click to expand...

It's almost 20 years since I could lift and carry 100 lb. (and that was just barely). Now? Only 60 lb. and that is just barely, not to mention I would be laid up a few days to a few weeks with a blown back. I have a 63 lb. paper cutter and, the last time I moved, about three years ago, I was in bed for four days afterwards. I now hire people to do my heavy lifting. Forget the senior discounts, I wish I was young again (and know what I know now).


----------



## snipekill2445

At work I used to have to move bags of magnesium around at 25kg a pop, used to take four at a time

Can't lift a whole lot now thought, with a broken spine


----------



## RockeyDA

i can barley pick up and carry my friend brain over my shoulders. he is about 260, 30 more than me. that's kinda my limit though.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i can barley pick up and carry my friend brain over my shoulders. he is about 260, 30 more than me. that's kinda my limit though.


Judging from your spelling, you've had too much juice of the barley.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Judging from your spelling, you've had too much juice of the barley.


so i caint spell. thats me.. .also brain came over today and he is like 180lbs now. so now im the fat one... AND HES GROWING A MOWHAWK... my work just made me cut mine off .

RIP this haircut. but its not all bad, now that im back to shaving my head you can see this big vain the bulges out when i get pissed.


should of took a pic right before i cut it, this was about a week or two before i cut it. freaken pen state saying my haircut was unprofessional.


----------



## snipekill2445

Look at mah abs


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Look at mah abs


ahh yeah? i got 6pack flabs! also even though i got man boobs i can still flex my pecks... wonder what would happen if i tried working out







.
also some bony pride! this was me when i graduated high school. they said i could decorate my hat however i wanted, the eclectic name tag on this scrolled "Rainbow Dash" of course!


----------



## RockeyDA

found a old splash of ghetto for yah... this is how i did my bike for dumpster diving a few years ago.. like 5 .


----------



## snipekill2445

I got to the gym to do rehab for my back three times a week, love getting some lifting in


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> found a old splash of ghetto for yah... this is how i did my bike for dumpster diving a few years ago.. like 5 http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2538825/width/500/height/1000


Is that a sub woofer powered by AA?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I got to the gym to do rehab for my back three times a week, love getting some lifting in


I need to start working out again...at one point I was doing an hour on elliptical and every weight machine...I felt great...nite not so much


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> found a old splash of ghetto for yah... this is how i did my bike for dumpster diving a few years ago.. like 5 .


Best mod EVER. How was the battery life?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

So I decided since pc needs a deep cleaning I was gonna try some led color changes but...I'm cheap so I decided sharpie wins... 

I tried different colors but I think I like the blue and green for hd...red was too pinkish...Orange looked yellow..does this qualify?


----------



## snipekill2445

In the process of building boxes for a set of old component speakers out of my car
Just need to fill in a couple of the gaps from my poor cutting skills, and sand it all down ready for painting




Thinking of painting them red like this


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Is that a sub woofer powered by AA?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Is that a sub woofer powered by AA?


2 Rows
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Best mod EVER. How was the battery life?


batteries came out of remotes i found dumpster diving. used it near daily for about a month... then i rekt my bike, some battery holders broke off, and more than half the batteries scaterd accost the mall parking lot in the hill side at 2am... and comcast moved and started throwing out less batteries... i scraped it befor i found enough to get it running a second time. figured its been threw a lot and could make better.
it was something i added on to 3 major times in 2 years. started out as a lil 5wat amp on a old 6x9 from a tv made in the 70's and a 9v battery. first night time test of the first time i built it i bike tier poped 2 miles from the house.
maby i should do something like that agin, buts its always the same problem, i need wood, nobody will drive me to get wood. i drew up plans for a arcade cabinet over a year ago... like a week after i finished the wooden snes. when i built the wooden snes i ened up walking 3 miles with aobut 200lbs of plywood that was big awkward to carry, decied not to do then again because it really sucked.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> In the process of building boxes for a set of old component speakers out of my car
> Just need to fill in a couple of the gaps from my poor cutting skills, and sand it all down ready for painting
> 
> Thinking of painting them red like this


good job on the box but EWWWWW, kickers? thems some walmart speakers and of average quality at best. kicker is only sigtly above pyle and pyramid. if thats all you got, i understand but i would keep your eyes pealed for an upgrade.

oh, and for a better looking box without the right tools, id recommend drawling on the parts what you need then to be shaped like, cut just outside the lines, then sand till you reach the lines, much faster job if you have dremmel but do-able by hand.


----------



## snipekill2445

lol they're what came out of my car, I wouldn't actually go as far as to buy new car speakers, at that point I'd just get some proper bookshelf speakers

They sound good, punchy mids and a decent tweeter


----------



## DizzlePro

is this ghetto enough?


----------



## BradleyW

I'm looking to paint my case a solid durable black. Are these products enough for the job?

Primer:

http://www.my-tool-shed.co.uk/p26744/Plastikote_Metal_Primer_White_400_ml_10598/product_info.html?utm_source=googleversafeed&vfsku=26744&gpla=pla&gclid=COLxhLzhjccCFajKtAod7SIHAw

Base Colour:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/plasti-kote-super-multipurpose-spray-paint-matt-black-400ml/33732

Should I bother with a lacquer? I'm not looking for a mirror finish, just a fresh look, brand new.

Thank you.


----------



## Pawelr98

Going back to my T5735 Project.


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizzlePro*
> 
> is this ghetto enough?
> 
> -snip-


I see zip ties although neatly done I bleave it is gettho enough I have an h60 and was supriesd it did not come with an second set of fan mounting screws


----------



## RockeyDA

did a lil video on something i have had for years but never talked about, felt like it deserved some attention.


----------



## kernel G

Yeah, I've got one of those too! Mine has a 34 pin card-edge connector (original PC style for really old 5-1/4 drives) instead of a (now normal) 34 pin connector. You might have seen cables with two different connectors next to each other- the bigger one is the card-edge connector.

Haven't used my drive in ages. I am surprised that a straight cable without the twist does not work! The twist makes the drive at that connector A:, a second connector below on the cable (without twist) would be B:. Untwisted cable _*should*_ make 5-1/4 B: (instead of A and 3-1/2 A: (instead of B. There are cables with 2 twists! The first twist makes the middle connector A:, and the second twist makes the end connector B:.
And once BIOS added option to swap the A: B: drive letters, you could now use an untwisted cable for a single drive, and have BIOS flip the letter to A:!

I still have a working 5-1/4 floppy in my main system. You hate buttons on the old floppy? This one has a button _*and*_ a motorized inject/eject like a slot loading CD drive! My 3-1/2 floppy is a combo with build in memory card reader.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> Yeah, I've got one of those too! Mine has a 34 pin card-edge connector (original PC style for really old 5-1/4 drives) instead of a (now normal) 34 pin connector. You might have seen cables with two different connectors next to each other- the bigger one is the card-edge connector.
> 
> Haven't used my drive in ages. I am surprised that a straight cable without the twist does not work! The twist makes the drive at that connector A:, a second connector below on the cable (without twist) would be B:. Untwisted cable _*should*_ make 5-1/4 B: (instead of A and 3-1/2 A: (instead of B. There are cables with 2 twists! The first twist makes the middle connector A:, and the second twist makes the end connector B:.
> And once BIOS added option to swap the A: B: drive letters, you could now use an untwisted cable for a single drive, and have BIOS flip the letter to A:!
> 
> I still have a working 5-1/4 floppy in my main system. You hate buttons on the old floppy? This one has a button _*and*_ a motorized inject/eject like a slot loading CD drive! My 3-1/2 floppy is a combo with build in memory card reader.


my older 5 1/4 drive has the slot instead of pins. and my old seagate st225 had slots as well. also i said you cant have the twist. if you run it after the twist only the 5 1/4 drive works.
also post pics of your drive.


----------



## kernel G

Beige slot loading 5-1/4 drive painted to match my case. Not full height, not even half- but actually 1/3 height. Just enough space to add a laptop optical drive and they fit in a half sized bay. Drive came from an IBM PS/2 system. Come to think of it- this qualifies as ghetto. Cut some steel from an old case to fashion a bracket on the back side, and electrical tape on the front to hold them together.

The light gray square on the upper right is the eject button. Down below it is the emergency eject that you push with a paper clip just like on an optical drive.
You're right about the cable- don't think I ever tried a twisted cable. Could be something with how the two floppies are internally wired together. I did use the BIOS to swap the floppy drive letter assignment.

Had to replace the 3-1/2 floppy with a USB floppy from a Dell laptop, because my new motherboard only supports one floppy disk. I was outraged- no more dual floppy support on a 2010 mobo?! It did allow me to clean up my cabling though. And an excuse to make a new rounded floppy cable for the one drive.

From bottom to top: 3-1/2" floppy with memory card reader
5-1/4 floppy
SATA Blueray drive
front loading SATA hard drive bay.


----------



## RnRollie

FYI the "twisted cable" story doesn't end there... for a while you actually had a master/slave jumper on some (business machines) floppy drives.. Just like the Master/Slave jumpers on harddrives.









And.. something similar for CD-ROMs (not talking about those that were plugged into a soundcard... those came later) and later tape drives - if not SCSI.

At some point an IDE Floppy drive existed... so you could have a Hardrive + floppy drive or CDROM + floppy drive on the same cable.

.....we've come a long way....


----------



## Bartouille

Ghetto anti-vibration case feets. Rubber gloves.







High speed fan life is hard... not because of the noise, but of the vibration and humming, this got rid of all that!




Holding top rad with zip ties. That also helped reduce vibration/humming.



Tight fit!









Ghetto hdd "cage", they were too noise in the 5.25 bay with adapter.


----------



## Werne

My old Seagate Momentus decided to die, it started beeping and whacking it's head back and forth. Not like I care much, there were 18 bad sectors on it and I made a backup an hour before that. But I just couldn't throw it away while there's stuff I can make with it, so I used the power of science and turned it into a speaker.









It was actually quite simple, open up the drive, rip the head and plates out, solder wires to the head, assemble, secure a plastiic cup onto the tip, hook it up to the stereo. Here it is playing music:






Sorry for the crappy audio, my phone doesn't like recording sound at all. The audio quality of the HDD is surprisingly good once you glue a plastic cup on it, but I had to secure it to the head with two magnets instead cause I have no glue, tends to vibrate a bit too much this way. The yellow hair band is there to kill vibration noise caused by that cup laying on top of the drive case.

And in case someone wants to know, the song is "It's all over but the crying" by The Ink Spots.


----------



## Slay

What if you stuck a gramophone tube on it?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> FYI the "twisted cable" story doesn't end there... for a while you actually had a master/slave jumper on some (business machines) floppy drives.. Just like the Master/Slave jumpers on harddrives.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And.. something similar for CD-ROMs (not talking about those that were plugged into a soundcard... those came later) and later tape drives - if not SCSI.
> 
> At some point an IDE Floppy drive existed... so you could have a Hardrive + floppy drive or CDROM + floppy drive on the same cable.
> 
> .....we've come a long way....


i got a superdisk floppy disk combo drive thats ide


----------



## BradleyW

Just spent the whole day machine polishing my rig chassis. Paint looks perfect! Wet sanded it first, then polished. No need to polish the interior as it was in perfect condition anyway.


----------



## Ultra-m-a-n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> My old Seagate Momentus decided to die, it started beeping and whacking it's head back and forth. Not like I care much, there were 18 bad sectors on it and I made a backup an hour before that. But I just couldn't throw it away while there's stuff I can make with it, so I used the power of science and turned it into a speaker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was actually quite simple, open up the drive, rip the head and plates out, solder wires to the head, assemble, secure a plastiic cup onto the tip, hook it up to the stereo. Here it is playing music:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the crappy audio, my phone doesn't like recording sound at all. The audio quality of the HDD is surprisingly good once you glue a plastic cup on it, but I had to secure it to the head with two magnets instead cause I have no glue, tends to vibrate a bit too much this way. The yellow hair band is there to kill vibration noise caused by that cup laying on top of the drive case.
> 
> And in case someone wants to know, the song is "It's all over but the crying" by The Ink Spots.


Can you explain to the ignorant (me) how this works?









Cool little mod by the way. I have a few dead drives


----------



## PetruV

This is ghetto, cheap,ugly,but works.On top if the pc there is an amplifier and the power supply for it,2 speakers 2 subwoofers, tears the house down. Feel free to ask anything


----------



## Werne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultra-m-a-n*
> 
> Can you explain to the ignorant (me) how this works?


I'm not sure if you mean "how it functions" or "how to make one", so I'll do both.

How it works is simple, two magnets with a coil in between, let some current through it and it'll move, electromagnetism 101. With a sound source hooked up to the coil, it becomes an electromagnet with a fast-changing magnetic field, causing the coil (and the HDD head attached to it) to rapidly attract and repel itself from the magnet's two poles, causing vibration.

Same underlying functionality applies to speakers as well, coil inside a magnet, current flow generates a magnetic field which moves the membrane back and forward, the coil and membrane being head and plastic cup in this case.

As for instructions, here's some instructable I found that explains how to make it. I'd explain it myself but it's 1am here.

One note though, if you have stiff or thick wires, don't solder them directly to the head like that guy did in step #6. Find a black thingy attached to a flat cable that leads to the head, it has a bunch of pins on the underside, find which two pins lead to the head coil and solder to them instead. You don't want stiff cables restricting head movement, it distorts the sound.


----------



## kernel G

That makes a lot of sense that it works! The coil of wire on the head actuator is called a "voice coil", just like the coil of wire on a real speaker. Luv it- ghetto recycling by repurposing that hard drive! You blinded me with science!


----------



## snipekill2445

Finished my speaker boxes, probably could have sanded them better, for a better paint finish, but it's good enough I think, they sound decent


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Finished my speaker boxes, *probably could have sanded them better, for a better paint finish*, but it's good enough I think, they sound decent


Keeps it ghetto


----------



## snipekill2445

Pretty happy with how they turned out, came to a grand total of 20 bucks or so for the mdf and paint


----------



## Nukemaster

Can not argue with that.


----------



## mrteddy

ghetto modding with velcro and HDDs, the rubber band solution was too ghetto so i pulled out the saw and cut the top of a hdd bay and the hdd caddy clips







HDDs dont overheat and didnt have a photo of the 14cm front fan isntalled


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetruV*
> 
> This is ghetto, cheap,ugly,but works.On top if the pc there is an amplifier and the power supply for it,2 speakers 2 subwoofers, tears the house down. Feel free to ask anything


DEEEEAAM SON, you jack those subs from a car in the hood back in the early 90's? but in all serusness older subs can still serve a purpus, they respond better with higher freq bass so 90's rap/techno will sound better if you have 90's subs. so if you ever get bigger newer subs, id recommend just adding to the setup for maximum awesomeness..
OMG, i just realized that's you bed... YOU CAN GAME IN BED? that sounds awesome..


----------



## RockeyDA

UPCOMING POST OF EPICNESS... i have been laying back on the posting, but that's only because if have been busy with glue and a screwdriver... hopefully by the end of the day i can show what i have been busy with.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Possible not Ghetto enough:









Will soon replace the 2x Gigabyte GTX780-Ti-GHz-Edition-3GB with 2x Asus GTX 980-Ti-DirectCU-III-GAMING-STRIX and put my NZXT. - Sentry-Mesh-Fan-Controller with 4x Fan-Cable-Extensions- / Splitters back in, to clean up a bit of the cabling mess.

Here is an older Ghetto-Build:







It's a 2600k @5047MHz on Air with a Thermaltake FRIO OCK + 2x EBM-Pabst 4112NH4 with 355m3/h AirFlow each.


----------



## BradleyW

That's incredible. I love that idea!


----------



## RnRollie

lolz

Now this would cool a lot better if you put the rads side-by-side i.s.o. that sandwich... but yeah, points for ghettoness. Two points deducted for no or not enough ducttape used


----------



## -Leopold-

A few months ago, a friend bought a new Graphics Card for his PC (a Sapphire R9 280 Varpor-X). Then he discovered, that his little crappy case was to short for this tall GPU.
So i decided to give him simpy my case with my RAM, Mainboard & CPU.
From this point, i play with my low-budget HTPC - Intel Celeron G1820, no GPU (yes, its possible







). Yesterday, he bought a new Mainboard & CPU, so he gave me my parts back.

Well, i did not have a case yet. So i simply put my old GPU (GTX 660) on it and connect my old HDD. The little bluetooth keyboard is for saving the position of my GPU, because its
very heavy and otherwise it would topple to one side. I have nothing to screw it on.

I start my "PC" by short-circuit the power-pins on the mainboard with a screwdriver.

Ghetto enough?


----------



## Nukemaster

That reminds me of this.

The standoffs on that thing are so short the boards heatsink bracket bottoms out.


This heatsink(chipset) almost fit. Little cutting and it fit right in. Even the cpu cooler heatsink needed the bracket re-drilled to clear the video card.


----------



## hartofwave

The headphone hanger


----------



## RockeyDA

wait, are people on this forum using headphones common? i got 1 friend in RL that uses headphones but thats because he lives with is parents and his step dad is a controlling ass whole over his life even though hes 19. dont get me wrong, just about everybody i know including my self own a pair of headphones but we never use them. (i only use mine when im eating lunch at work so i can listen to music without pissing off my boss.)


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Unless you live by yourself in a single house or have a dedicated sound proof room, headphones are a must.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Unless you live by yourself in a single house or have a dedicated sound proof room, headphones are a must.


I am neither of those things, and I almost never use either of my headphones.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I use headphones to block out other noises and to isolate the sound plus my stereo rarely gets used because I like it loud and the neighbors don't lol


----------



## hartofwave

TBH I find it better for locating in csgo and it is less bothersome with voip


----------



## snipekill2445

Got some more mdf to build speakers stands, prolly gonna paint these black

I just hope I've got enough screws and wood glue


----------



## Nukemaster

Duct tape.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> lolz
> 
> Now this would cool a lot better if you put the rads side-by-side i.s.o. that sandwich... but yeah, points for ghettoness. Two points deducted for no or not enough ducttape used


I have just not enough space here and couldn't be bothered to get a new case.

The temps are ok, even with the sandwich and the fan's are not too loud : Click


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> wait, are people on this forum using headphones common? i got 1 friend in RL that uses headphones but thats because he lives with is parents and his step dad is a controlling ass whole over his life even though hes 19. dont get me wrong, just about everybody i know including my self own a pair of headphones but we never use them. (i only use mine when im eating lunch at work so i can listen to music without pissing off my boss.)


Me and my wife have our PC-Setup's in the living-room, so yeah we need to use them, otherwise you can't watch TV at the same time.


----------



## caliking420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




This is what came to mind


----------



## Unknownm

maybe not so ghetto but damn near ghetto enough

The fan sitting on the watercooling tubes to cool down the VRMs, can't find a good mounting point so just leaving it there seems to work the best


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Me and my wife have our PC-Setup's in the living-room, so yeah we need to use them, otherwise you can't watch TV at the same time.


why cant you watch tv and use your pc at the same time? i usually watch something on Netflix on my small left monitor while doing the in portent things on my big right monitor. i mean if you in to something so intense you want to not here the tv... cant you just shut it off?


----------



## RockeyDA

OK! so a few weeks ago i finished my project.
i ordered a broken sega CD off ebay for 130$ witch was alot cheaper than the 200 the working ones go for. i knew it was a gamble but i also felt confident in my self to fix anything thrown at me.


when i opened my package i saw this

i knew the description said "it rattles when i shake it" but DANG.

once i got in side it i saw this, i forgot to take pics of the main RF shield witch i had to bang dents out of.

this was clearly thrown.

this was a real pain to deal with, one of the ribbon bables was cut 3 pins in from the RF shiled. i had to make it work again, and i failed twice.


then i had to realign the gears in the disk drive, but i ran into a problem, this lil pice of plastic was broke off and the drive was wobbly on the hinge.

i found the missing piece of plastic in the case and super glued it back on, broke it off messing with the gears and glued it on again.

then i had to deal with this being off track (starting to get frustrated with disk drive)


THEN, the belt was slipping off the whele at the motor so i had to find a way to increase friction.. so soaked the wheel in super glue and stretched out a q-tip head over the wheel, waited for it to dry, and ripped it off, leaving fibers all over the wheel and giving it the friction it needed.


In the end it works great now and cleaned up nicely. now i just need some games.


video saying basically what i did here




and if you seen the video, pics of me fixing my region mod.

When i peaked in to my Genesis i was like OMG WHAT DID IT DO? HOW DO I OPEN?


and this is after i got in and added a lead and connected the missing pin. (forgot to put lead on to connect ground to the JP region after taking it from US region)


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> why cant you watch tv and use your pc at the same time? i usually watch something on Netflix on my small left monitor while doing the in portent things on my big right monitor. i mean if you in to something so intense you want to not here the tv... cant you just shut it off?


What I mean is, if I play a game and my wife wants to watch TV at the same time or the other way around, then the gaming person has to use a headset.

Beside that, certain games like BF / COD are easier to play with a headset and positional audio.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> What I mean is, if I play a game and my wife wants to watch TV at the same time or the other way around, then the gaming person has to use a headset.
> 
> Beside that, certain games like BF / COD are easier to play with a headset and positional audio.


now i could never imagine playing a game with headphones, never tried it. running headphones to my computer, it would be difficult because of cable length and my sound card has weak pre-amp. i don't know i just all around don't like headphones and i only use them as a last resort. and i know a while back some body was going on aobut how gereat there beats were and they payed 200$ for them, put them on and laghed. bass was poor even for headphones and quality was so low could not here difference in 128kb/s mp3 over 320kb/s, with my upstairs sound setup flac is mid blowing







and im never used to it because i don't have high quality speakers down here dew to bad acoustics. but i can still tell difference between flac and mp3 with these ok speakers, combine that with good subs and i cant even look at headphones.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> lolz
> 
> Now this would cool a lot better if you put the rads side-by-side i.s.o. that sandwich... but yeah, points for ghettoness. Two points deducted for no or not enough ducttape used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have just not enough space here and couldn't be bothered to get a new case.
> 
> The temps are ok, even with the sandwich and the fan's are not too loud : Click
Click to expand...

Have you seen Stren's "saddlebags" ?








http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=222181

@everybody else:
Headphones are BAD for your hearing... especially if you have a tendency to put the volume up.

.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> now i could never imagine playing a game with headphones, never tried it. running headphones to my computer, it would be difficult because of cable length and my sound card has weak pre-amp. i don't know i just all around don't like headphones and i only use them as a last resort. and i know a while back some body was going on aobut how gereat there beats were and they payed 200$ for them, put them on and laghed. bass was poor even for headphones and quality was so low could not here difference in 128kb/s mp3 over 320kb/s, with my upstairs sound setup flac is mid blowing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im never used to it because i don't have high quality speakers down here dew to bad acoustics. but i can still tell difference between flac and mp3 with these ok speakers, combine that with good subs and i cant even look at headphones.


I use a Plantronics GameCom Commander Limited Edition and my wife a GameCom 777 and both come with an USB-Sound-Card.

For music I use my Sony XBA4, which were AUD 550,- back then when I bought them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Have you seen Stren's "saddlebags" ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=222181
> 
> @everybody else:
> Headphones are BAD for your hearing... especially if you have a tendency to put the volume up.
> 
> .


Nice Build !


----------



## snipekill2445

Finally got my speakers and stands finished up, in total about a $60 build


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Finally got my speakers and stands finished up, in total about a $60 build


nice setup there, speakers came out nice.


----------



## cravinmild

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> maybe not so ghetto but damn near ghetto enough
> 
> The fan sitting on the watercooling tubes to cool down the VRMs, can't find a good mounting point so just leaving it there seems to work the best


you could put a few smaller fans on the side which would give better air flow imo and allow better wire placement.


__
https://flic.kr/p/9pTgmC


__
https://flic.kr/p/9pTgmC
 by cory ekman, on Flickr

zipstraped to the case on the side of the fan and just resting on the psu


__
https://flic.kr/p/9raVFR


__
https://flic.kr/p/9raVFR
 by cory ekman, on Flickr


----------



## snipekill2445

Thought I put some spare speakers I had out of my car, into one of my parents cars, had to kind of make it fit into the factory bracket...



edit: ignore the packet of smokes >.>


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Thought I put some spare speakers I had out of my car, into one of my parents cars, had to kind of make it fit into the factory bracket...
> 
> 
> 
> edit: ignore the packet of smokes >.>


gonna fill the gap with cardboard and hot glue?
also i dont think i have ever herd anybody call it a "packet of smokes" its like a longer version of pack of smokes. sounds funny, when you say packet i think those padded envelope things you get in the mail.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> gonna fill the gap with cardboard and hot glue?
> also i dont think i have ever herd anybody call it a "packet of smokes" its like a longer version of pack of smokes. sounds funny, when you say packet i think those padded envelope things you get in the mail.


cigarettes and their packaging are called different things..pack is short for packet or package and as Americans we usually like the shorthand...


----------



## OfXaos

This was my professional optical drive install/gpu support system.. (I've removed the DVD burner to a more secure location and am housing the gpu in a different case lol


----------



## broadbandaddict

Traded a family member an old laptop for this HTPC. Here it is with the hard drives and optical drive pulled out.




Test fitting it in my TV console.





It doesn't fit. So I drilled out these rivets on the front....




Busted out the tin snips and ended up with this:




I wedged the front piece between the motherboard tray and case. Snapped the front panel on and zip tied everything to keep it on tight.





It turned out pretty good I think. I'm going to finish putting it back together tomorrow and cut the top.


----------



## RockeyDA

still have not got the wood for that case.... but gaming on the go is a must so this was my make shift means in transport... down side.. gota be careful not to damage MB with loose gpu or psu,. and takes aobut 30min to set up. but works for now. but i think this is beyond ghetto, more sad. my motherboard needs a case to call home.

http://i.imgur.com/a7ogJgz.jpg


----------



## Nukemaster

broadbandaddict,
Always good to see a case shrink work out. Even better when it uses zip ties.

RockeyDA,
Must be great to show up some place and just start setting up.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

Subtle repair to my server PSU. No 2 pin 120s on hand. This works better anyways.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> broadbandaddict,
> Always good to see a case shrink work out. Even better when it uses zip ties.
> 
> RockeyDA,
> Must be great to show up some place and just start setting up.


when i get to were im setting up i have to say "i need a flat ridged surface of at least 2ft by 2ft."


----------



## plottingCreeper

I was once in Scouts.
I needed another monitor.
My desk is against a post.
I have a lot of paracord around the place.


----------



## RockeyDA

So one of my friends showed me how to use reddit(i kinda get it... still haven't figured out how to change my profile pic) and i posted my rig on there expecting maby a like after a few days, got 21 in 9hr... what the hell is redit popular or something? becase i think its odd and clunky... i hope some day i can figure out 4 chan.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I don't like the layout of reddit either. 4chan just seems like the site weird people get together on. And when I say weird, I mean shouldn't be let out of their house or have internet access. Only been on it for 5 seconds at most.

The usb cable on my mouse was damaged somewhere, but I couldn't find where, so I just soldered a new cable directly to the mouse. I'll post pics if I ever take it apart again.


----------



## FloofyFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> So one of my friends showed me how to use reddit(i kinda get it... still haven't figured out how to change my profile pic) and i posted my rig on there expecting maby a like after a few days, got 21 in 9hr... what the hell is redit popular or something? becase i think its odd and clunky... i hope some day i can figure out 4 chan.


Reddit has a pretty large community for home PC stuff. I'll occasionally reply to people there asking questions, but I mostly just browse pictures.

r/buildapc and r/cable management are two favourites. r/buildapcsales and r/battlestations are fun too, and r/****tybattlestations if you're in for a laugh. Kinda similar to this thread actually









Yes, reddit is phenomenally popular. It's actually coined the term "hug of death" where if someone on reddit links something cool they found on another website, the traffic generated from people visiting the linked site is so high that it overloads the hosting server preventing anyone from further accessing that website.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloofyFox*
> 
> Reddit has a pretty large community for home PC stuff. I'll occasionally reply to people there asking questions, but I mostly just browse pictures.
> 
> r/buildapc and r/cable management are two favourites. r/buildapcsales and r/battlestations are fun too, and r/****tybattlestations if you're in for a laugh. Kinda similar to this thread actually
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, reddit is phenomenally popular. It's actually coined the term "hug of death" where if someone on reddit links something cool they found on another website, the traffic generated from people visiting the linked site is so high that it overloads the hosting server preventing anyone from further accessing that website.


so theirs a cable management page? i have ideas, i hate those cable management nuts.... i think im gonna shove a shut tone of loose wires in a computer case and take a pic







that is the day i have had enough sleep i feel like doing that.


----------



## RockeyDA

HALP! im trying to get into bit coin mining this year instead of [email protected], i dotn have heat so i make my servers work 24/7 in the winter for wamth. i was expecting to find a tool/aplication similar to folding at home, that would let me select what gpu/s and cpu/s i wanna use.




i have no ideah whats going on here, figured maby its like folding at home in the since it takes a while before it starts working, gave it 2 days and my resources are still on idle..... can some one put me on right track? also something rather important is that my cpu can be used for it because i got alot of cpu power. cuda acceleration usually slows things down.


----------



## snipekill2445

We're not nuts, we just like clean, sleek cable routing

As for bitcoin mining, even investing in dedicated miners, you wont earn enough bitcoin to even cover the cost of electricity you'll use


----------



## xxpenguinxx

He's going to be using that electricity for heating anyway, might as well get something back. You're better off mining an alt coin instead of bitcoin since they pay a little more, and I wouldn't bother with a CPU miner since they're the least efficient.


----------



## TheBadBull

Go dogecoin.


----------



## ccRicers

I've been out of altcoin mining for over a year. Made some okay money with it and sold my mining hardware afterwards. I don't know anything about which are profitable currently, it's best to go to the official Bitcoin/Altcoin discussion thread and look for information there.


----------



## sindeky

My mouse (Razer Lachesis 5600)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






(Named Nicki Minaj by my friends due to its shape) Died a while ago(3 months ?) and as I had a LAN the next day, I went out and bought a new mouse.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






About a week ago I decided I would give a shot at fixing it. I couldn't find any damage in the cable so after taking it apart found that one of the wires from the USB cable had come out of place and was shorting a contact on another pin. after replacing the cable it now works good as new. the new cable looks **** but it will do until I get myself a nicer cable or decide to custom sleeve it.
*/Pictures of mouse with new cable will be uploaded later/*


----------



## NvNw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *windfire*
> 
> XSPC EX240 has 9-10 fpi (a low medium figure, IMHO) and so it is supposedly geared toward low spinning fan speed.
> 
> Regarding rad stacking, it is not a good idea in general.
> Someone did a study on stacking with Magicool slim 360 rad (14 fpi). He found that both your suggested arrangements ([rad] [fan] [rad] --> airflow and [fan] [rad] [rad] --> airflow) yield a *poorer* performance.
> 
> See table below. 5, 4 and 8 all yield poorer performance than basic arragement 1.
> 
> 
> Table link
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?220874-More-Radiator-Sandwich-testing
> 
> And, using push+pull will not bring a substantial performance boost over using just push or pull fans because the fpi of the rad is already low. However, small performance boost is still better than nil.
> Using 800rpm push*+*pull (or 1200rpm push or pull) fans should be able to squeeze all the performance out of a EX240 rad, according to the user review below.
> 
> User review:- http://www.chiphell.com/thread-318203-1-1.html


It will work better if you separate both and put them side by side.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NvNw*
> 
> It will work better if you separate both and put them side by side.


Thanks for the Info !

We have to move end of January and I hope that we will have a bit more space at our new place, that I can a few things.


----------



## brodieboy143

A litle off topic, but I can give a little input with regard to mining.

I have free electricity where I am so there is no point not mining 24/7. I have 2 GTX580's and I have found that the optimal algorithm for these is x11, mining DASH (formerly Darkcoin). The algorithm gives the best balance between profitability, noise, heat and efficiency. I have heard the Quark algorithm is also good for Nvidia Cards. AMD cards have an advantage since there are actually algorithm switching pools that switch both coins and algorithms depending on what is most profitable.

CPU mining is still viable with specific coins. I currently mine Coin of the Magi on several machines, which is a CPU only coin and comparative in profit to what my graphics cards can output. Having said that, I mine on several machines 24/7, including my 8 core server.

For any mining to be profitable with computer hardware, you're going to have to join a pool of some sort. Look around to find the best one for your needs. Miner clients that run on your computer don't usually have nice GUIs, instead opting for a command line utility that you make a batch file for, launch, and let it run (much like the older [email protected] gpu clients).

More on topic, I'm doing an Electrical Engineering Design course this semester and we opted to make an automated cocktail mixing machine. We only have to build a rough prototype and will likely be sourcing most building materials from construction site skip bins to keep the main cost constrained to the components needed to make it all function. As such, ghetto epicness can be expected. Pics to follow once building commences


----------



## swingarm

This is of a recreation of a past "ghetto rigging" since I don't have one on my current computers.

My Dad is a computer tech(so am I) and back earlier this year he had an inventory of some old used computers and hard drives. I was bored looking for something to do, build a cheap NAS box came to mind. I took the fastest of the used computers he had, a Dell Optiplex 330.

E4500, 2.20Ghz Core Duo CPU
1GB Memory(2 sticks)


I had 6 hard drives + 1 SSD OS drive to work with but I quickly ran into 2 problems. First problem was the built in SATA on the motherboard only had ports for 4 drives. Easy solution, buy a cheap SATA card. Motherboard had a PCI-Express slot and a regular PCI slot, I bought one for the former not realizing that the the PCI-E slots on these Dells would only work with graphics cards. Bought a second card(good thing these were cheap) for the regular PCI slot, first problem solved. The second problem was 7 total hard drives and 4 available bays. I noticed that the top 5.25" bay had a smidgen of room left over for the 2.5" 80GB hard drive on top of the existing 3.5" hard drive in there. After looking around for a while on the internet I figured I would have to make my own mount with some spare aluminum laying around.




Secondary benefit was the mount acted like a little heatsink. After mounting another 3.5" drive in the floppy bay I only had to find space for one more drive. I got lucky, twice on this. The last drive was a 8GB SSD drive for the OS(Linux) and fortunately there was just enough space below the dual 3.5" drive cage at the bottom front of the chassis for me to shove the SSD in there.

The improvised mount lasted about a couple of weeks till I found this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032UUGF4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Fits in 2-5.25" bays but holds 3-3.5" drives, goodbye handcrafted mount.

Oh, also went and bought a 450watt power supply because I didn't trust the Dell OEM 330watt.


----------



## chaosblade02

I used a piece of a chop stick as support for my GPU to keep it from sagging. It works really good.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Ergotron's LX arm (from maybe 10 years ago) does not have 100mm VESA, only 75. A 100mm VESA mount from another stand, a drill and some nuts-n-bolts fix this okay.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Ergotron's LX arm (from maybe 10 years ago) does not have 100mm VESA, only 75. A 100mm VESA mount from another stand, a drill and some nuts-n-bolts fix this okay.


a lock washer or lock tite would be a good idea


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Ergotron's LX arm (from maybe 10 years ago) does not have 100mm VESA, only 75. A 100mm VESA mount from another stand, a drill and some nuts-n-bolts fix this okay.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a lock washer or lock tite would be a good idea
Click to expand...

There are two sets of nuts on each stud. It should b alright if the jam nuts (2nd nut) are tight also. But I think I'd use nylocks before locktite


----------



## battleaxe

Ghetto H20 cooling mods on my 290x Xfire. A pair of H80's using long screws. Various heat sinks to cool the VRM's.

Result: significant drop in temps on VRM's and core, but I still cannot use more than 150mv without getting too hot. Would need a full block to get to 200mv on the 290x. The upper card for whatever reason runs cooler and can take 193mv and stay nice and cool. Bottom card runs better, harder, faster, but gets hotter than a witch.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Ghetto H20 cooling mods on my 290x Xfire. A pair of H80's using long screws. Various heat sinks to cool the VRM's.
> 
> Result: significant drop in temps on VRM's and core, but I still cannot use more than 150mv without getting too hot. Would need a full block to get to 200mv on the 290x. The upper card for whatever reason runs cooler and can take 193mv and stay nice and cool. Bottom card runs better, harder, faster, but gets hotter than a witch.


Nice VRM cooling









You should post in *[Official] AMD/ATI GPU Mod Club - AKA "The Red Mod"* too.

I did something similar, but only a single card and on the green team.(pre-made bracket for the LQ310 and and old Athlon XP heatsink with some cuts deal with the VRMs. It also has a 70mm fan on it.)


----------



## kitoxx

Not sure if ghetto enough due to lack of duct tape and because the end result looks pretty strait. better than I thought it would anyways.

A while back I acquired a h100 cooler and had no problems mounting it in my 600t. Though it was in pull configuration, so not ideal. Plus there was the top case grill in between the fans and the rad which introduced a pretty serious amount of turbulence.

So I wanted push/pull but had no way of doing so due to clearance issues.

Ended up stripping the system down to component level and dismantling the case till all I was left with was the metal husk of a 600t.

Chopped the roof out of it with a friends angle grinder and hack saw, only narrowly missing the mounting holes. While I was at it I also cut out the front fan grill.

Fitted the h100 above the case, some fans on top of that and then some slim fans for underneath.

the last four pics are the finished product


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Yikes....metal file ftw....


----------



## Powerg4

Found a picture from ages ago of my old laptop, acer travelmate with 256mb ram, nothing special.








As I found out there is a reason why no one tries to mod laptops.
Spray painted the whole thing blue, didn't even bother with primer!








Still works but i snapped the keyboard cable and the battery pack died so it's kind of useless without being plugged into the wall and a full desktop keyboard as well!








The coloured wires sticking out the side power the cooling fans and leds.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Found a picture from ages ago of my old laptop, acer travelmate with 256mb ram, nothing special.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I found out there is a reason why no one tries to mod laptops.
> Spray painted the whole thing blue, didn't even bother with primer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still works but i snapped the keyboard cable and the battery pack died so it's kind of useless without being plugged into the wall and a full desktop keyboard as well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coloured wires sticking out the side power the cooling fans and leds.


That's freaking awesome man! LOL


----------



## kitoxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> That's freaking awesome man! LOL


seconded.









what is some of the other equipment you have in the photo?

the 3 things that grab my eye are the blue/grey box to the left. The black/dark grey box to the right and the silver amp looking thing under the upside down mobo under the desk


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Found a picture from ages ago of my old laptop, acer travelmate with 256mb ram, nothing special.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I found out there is a reason why no one tries to mod laptops.
> Spray painted the whole thing blue, didn't even bother with primer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still works but i snapped the keyboard cable and the battery pack died so it's kind of useless without being plugged into the wall and a full desktop keyboard as well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coloured wires sticking out the side power the cooling fans and leds.


I think I see an old HP under the desk?


----------



## battleaxe

A few updates to my RedMod. First some new bench scores. Still a cluster, but its better than it was. Overall, I'm happy with er'.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Nukemaster

If that is a Scythe Slipstream slim, how much did it help. That fan has very little static pressure(was my cpu fan for a while.).


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> If that is a Scythe Slipstream slim, how much did it help. That fan has very little static pressure(was my cpu fan for a while.).


The idea was to just push a bit of air on the back of the bottom card. And to cool the VRM on the top card. The top card really doesn't even need it. That thing stays silly cool for some reason. They work good enough to take about 1-2c off the bottom card VRM1. Which was a win in my book. After doing these mods and the other cleaning up my VRM1 is now almost 20c cooler than it was. All told, I'd say they work well enough to do the job.

I also added 4 new Skythe Gentle Typhoons to the case. Love these fans. I plan to get more. They are so quiet and move tons of air. Great, great fans.


----------



## Nukemaster

Maybe an air guide would help the bottom card.

It has WAY more heatsink by the look of things.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> A few updates to my RedMod. First some new bench scores. Still a cluster, but its better than it was. Overall, I'm happy with er'.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is very good ghetto stuff... in fact, if I remember correctly, I may have commented on this in another forum...

Good work


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> This is very good ghetto stuff... in fact, if I remember correctly, I may have commented on this in another forum...
> 
> Good work


What can I say? Thanks man...


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kitoxx*
> 
> seconded.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what is some of the other equipment you have in the photo?
> 
> the 3 things that grab my eye are the blue/grey box to the left. The black/dark grey box to the right and the silver amp looking thing under the upside down mobo under the desk


Haha the blue and grey thing is an oscilloscope, the black box to the right is my power supply I use for alot of things (in this case powering the cpu fan) and I think the silver box underneath the (dead) mobo under the desk is an eeprom programmer from the stone age, I've never tried it but it probably works!









I want to take the laptop apart and rebuild it inside a new, more portable case with it's own supply but I haven't had time to do it yet...


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> He's going to be using that electricity for heating anyway, might as well get something back. You're better off mining an alt coin instead of bitcoin since they pay a little more, and I wouldn't bother with a CPU miner since they're the least efficient.


got link for a good windows 64-bit miner that can pull cpu power?
i also have a second pc i wanna mine with witch i plann on relying on the second gtx480 for... any miners that might be better suited for a fermi card? so far every mining softwere i have tried never starts mining (tried bit coin core, light coin core, and GUI minor with no luck... let em sit for 24hr no cpu or gpu activity.)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Haha the blue and grey thing is an oscilloscope, the black box to the right is my power supply I use for alot of things (in this case powering the cpu fan) and I think the silver box underneath the (dead) mobo under the desk is an eeprom programmer from the stone age, I've never tried it but it probably works!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to take the laptop apart and rebuild it inside a new, more portable case with it's own supply but I haven't had time to do it yet...


i got a cheep eeprom programer my self..... i put a asus bios on gateway motherbord of same chipset.... it got a chassis intrusion error. tried a different over clocking bios and over clocking made system not boot. my first attempt at unbricking the bios i axidently grabbed a acer bios while having trubble finding the gateway bios. when i did my test power on i was like WHAT THE HECK? because i got a acer splash screen.


----------



## Pawelr98

Original backup battery was unable to keep the 128MB cache running.It works.

My 2P Server (HP ML350 G5). HD5450(VGA ribbon-cable goes from card to output),better FB-DIMM cooling.

My mod to fix P5K-VM "chassis Intruded" error.

My friend purchased a laptop, SSD and a caddy.
Caddy was 12.7mm while the laptop had 9.5mm slot.
Plastic frame+electronics both from caddy with some tape managed to fit there.


----------



## badtaylorx

I have this beauty up for sale in the Classies.

It's my HD 7870LE "Tahiti" GCN chipped PowerColor MYST.

the ghetto cooling includes a drilled out corsair block and a Gigabyte vrm cooler from a motherboard.

http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC00286_zps1buopu0d.jpg.html


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badtaylorx*
> 
> I have this beauty up for sale in the Classies.
> 
> It's my HD 7870LE "Tahiti" GCN chipped PowerColor MYST.
> 
> the ghetto cooling includes a drilled out corsair block and a Gigabyte vrm cooler from a motherboard.
> 
> http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/badtaylorx/media/DSC00286_zps1buopu0d.jpg.html


These guys might be interested.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1203636/official-amd-ati-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-red-mod/0_100


----------



## kitoxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Original backup battery was unable to keep the 128MB cache running.It works.


THIS!!.. this is why I love this thread


----------



## Faster_is_better

This thread really ramped up since I last looked at it just a couple months ago. Funnily enough I have something to contribute even









Pulled this from my build log:

Took a beer koozie (unsponsored I assure you) and made it into my pump decoupler. Works great, I like yellow.


----------



## battleaxe

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> This thread really ramped up since I last looked at it just a couple months ago. Funnily enough I have something to contribute even
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pulled this from my build log:
> 
> Took a beer koozie (unsponsored I assure you) and made it into my pump decoupler. Works great, I like yellow.






Nice. Buzz stopper.


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> My friend purchased a laptop, SSD and a caddy.
> Caddy was 12.7mm while the laptop had 9.5mm slot.
> Plastic frame+electronics both from caddy with some tape managed to fit there.


I bet 5 internetz that this is a asus X550LN


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> My friend purchased a laptop, SSD and a caddy.
> Caddy was 12.7mm while the laptop had 9.5mm slot.
> Plastic frame+electronics both from caddy with some tape managed to fit there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bet 5 internetz that this is a asus X550LN
Click to expand...

Nope
ASUS R510JX-DM044H
Now my internets please


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Nope
> ASUS R510JX-DM044H
> Now my internets please


Damn I was very close, it´s structurally identical to the X550 I have

here is your Poland equivalent to US Internetz (although i do no live in the US)


----------



## neo565

My Dell monitor bezel broke, so I made one out of duct tape:


----------



## Faster_is_better

hahahahaha, bonus points for writing the name and drawing the buttons on the bezel


----------



## TheBadBull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo565*
> 
> My Dell monitor bezel broke, so I made one out of duct tape:


hah cool


----------



## TK421

Not pretty, but I managed to stay below 55c even with max voltage allowed by the card














































GT1850 with duct tape mod set to pull air through radiator


----------



## Nukemaster

The heatsinks on the back of the video card are awesome.


----------



## battleaxe

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Not pretty, but I managed to stay below 55c even with max voltage allowed by the card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GT1850 with duct tape mod set to pull air through radiator





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> The heatsinks on the back of the video card are awesome.


Thole blinking thing is awesome. Gotta love it man!









Bet its super quiet too... LOL


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Anyone else having problems loading TK421's pics? It loads one line of pixels each time I refresh, but it won't load the whole thing, even when going to the url directly.

EDIT, oh now you load.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Anyone else having problems loading TK421's pics? It loads one line of pixels each time I refresh, but it won't load the whole thing, even when going to the url directly.
> 
> EDIT, oh now you load.


I'm using abload.de

Here is link to website to see if you can load the pictures

http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_29596obqh.jpg
http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_2958ymx3s.jpg
http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_2957g8afb.jpg
http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_295578ldp.jpg
http://abload.de/image.php?img=img_29541ab3p.jpg
http://abload.de/image.php?img=tx1274tts20.jpg


----------



## Mega Man

Or. .. you could just load them to ocn


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Or. .. you could just load them to ocn


And have them in lower res?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> And have them in lower res?


people are more likely to look at them if they don't have to open new tabs or keep refreshing etc...this forum doesn't seem to play well with that...and with a spoiler tag makes it clean

Who needs high res dust lol j/k I like the mod though...where the hell did you find that tiny fan and what size it?


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> people are more likely to look at them if they don't have to open new tabs or keep refreshing etc...this forum doesn't seem to play well with that...and with a spoiler tag makes it clean
> 
> Who needs high res dust lol j/k I like the mod though...where the hell did you find that tiny fan and what size it?


Which fan?

There's a single stack PMD1204PQB1-A 13k rpm on the front of the card cooling the vrm/vram plate heatsink (with front shroud cover removed)
Similar PMD1204PQB1-A on the small heatsink set on the rear of the card

I forgot the slim fan and one sitting on top of the stock intel heatsink. Will check later.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Or. .. you could just load them to ocn
> 
> 
> 
> And have them in lower res?
Click to expand...

no they are in full res, you just dont understand how it works, have no fear i will show you

click this pic, then find the button in the lower right, it says "original" ( or you can just right click and pic view pic )



omg full res....

see this pic,

you can even read my cpu temp


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no they are in full res, you just dont understand how it works, have no fear i will show you
> 
> click this pic, then find the button in the lower right, it says "original" ( or you can just right click and pic view pic )
> 
> 
> 
> omg full res....
> 
> see this pic,
> 
> you can even read my cpu temp


Should I repost the pics then?


----------



## Mega Man

that is up to you, i just wanted to show you how


----------



## Nukemaster

If you place the abload.de images within [_ img_] and [_/img_] tags without the _'s and check Import Images at the bottom right of the forum post editor, the images should be auto pulled to OCN.

testing









EDIT, you need to get the direct link from the website and place them.

Testing again.



EDIT

Success! I will remove your image from my name as soon as you upload, copy or say to.

So yeah you can do it like this.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

this is the one


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> If you place the abload.de images within [_ img_] and [_/img_] tags without the _'s and check Import Images at the bottom right of the forum post editor, the images should be auto pulled to OCN.]


I see, I'll do that next time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> this is the one


SUNON PMD1204PQB1-A, 13000rpm, 40mm single stack server fan


----------



## unknown601

Messing with a dell optiplex 280 XD

I give you the rubber band!


----------



## Nukemaster

I had a system with that board(or very close). The caps leaked pretty good. It was too slow to be worth fixing(I have plenty of junk laying around already,).

I still have the stock cooler and blower for it


----------



## AsusFan30

Can you find it?


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> Messing with a dell optiplex 280 XD
> 
> I give you the rubber band!


I wouldn't use rubber band.
After time they break from heat.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsusFan30*
> 
> Can you find it?


there is nothing getto about tw0 980s...lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

is it whatever you used as a drive sled? It's hard to see though....yep it's officially the left side of the left most drive...missing plastic tool less drive sled...it looks like a 1x2 block?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> is it whatever you used as a drive sled? It's hard to see though....yep it's officially the left side of the left most drive...missing plastic tool less drive sled...it looks like a 1x2 block?


The left drive tray (or sled, if you prefer) is there but the latch release tab is missing on the left side.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I wouldn't use rubber band.
> After time they break from heat.


after time it will loose elasticity on its own.. but who cares all newer cpu's have a thermal kill switch. so if it falls off the pc will shut off.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I wouldn't use rubber band.
> After time they break from heat.
> 
> 
> 
> after time it will loose elasticity on its own.. but who cares all newer cpu's have a thermal kill switch. so if it falls off the pc will shut off.
Click to expand...

Use wire and springs and you won't have to worry about it.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Use wire and springs and you won't have to worry about it.


I've seen bread ties used as well...I don't think I would use rubber bands or bread ties...wire and spring idea is pretty good though


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I wouldn't use rubber band.
> After time they break from heat.
> 
> 
> 
> after time it will loose elasticity on its own.. but who cares all newer cpu's have a thermal kill switch. so if it falls off the pc will shut off.
Click to expand...

Worse if it falls down on something like gpu.Not only weight itself can cause damage, it could also create a short.


----------



## Nukemaster

The CNPS 9500 comes with Socket 478 mounting hardware if I recall right.


----------



## ondoy




----------



## RockeyDA

if its a modern dell (775 or lator) it would require alot of effort to get a good gpu in that system, so i expect a cheep single slot if any.


----------



## V1C10U5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> So I'm waiting to break my loop down, switch tubing, and change the retention bracket on my CPU block until BD releases. But I couldn't be without a desktop while the BF3 beta was going on so I just sat my PC on it's side and stuck the 1155 block to my X2 560. Temps are actually good even at 4.4Ghz.


I've done this, works great until someone bumps it under load and the block breaks contact, temps went from 75 to holy [email protected]#t in about a second


----------



## unknown601

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Use wire and springs and you won't have to worry about it.


 I just did that will i was finding the mounts  not a perma thing XD


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Ancient GPUs are not worth it, you pay 1/4 of the price of a new one and get 1/8 of the performance for twice the power drain.


----------



## Mega Man

Why were the posts deleted ?


----------



## broadbandaddict

Fixed up an old Optiplex 360 at work to put Windows 10 on. I was planning to use a 8400GS we had laying around but the fan didn't work so I took one off an ATI X300 and screwed a fan to it. One of the heatsink posts was too tall and was hitting the fan so I put some washers on it.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why were the posts deleted ?


Name calling and off topic I'd assume.


----------



## Mega Man

Yea I guess I can see that sad though. Good info in one specific post sad it will be lost


----------



## V1C10U5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> needed openings for my front bottom fan.
> drilled holes!then used cut up Bic pens for some clearance between the front panel and the fan


Did you use a fibre stripper as sidecutters?


----------



## Mega Man

That looks like cap tube cutter


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I know it's not computer related I've never had to use this trick in all the years I've done carpentry...but my door to my bedrooms screws were stripped because apparently the jackleg that installed it didn't inset the hinges enough so the hinge holes were right in the gaps of the split frame...so they decided to caulk the crap out of it and run the screws in and let caulk hold the hinges lol....so I don't have any casing or excess lumber around but I remembered having some paint stirring sticks laying around... Hot glue and a hammer and about 10 minutes and the deed was done....sadly I think the paint sticks are stronger than the frame at this point....really need to buy a new split jamb...just so people know if you strip a hole in wood you can in a pinch place any splinter slightly larger than the hole...hammer it in until flush then re screw...obviously it's not intended as a permanent fix but it will hold solid for a while until you can replace the part


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> ...I know it's not computer related I've never had to use this trick in all the years I've done carpentry...but my door to my bedrooms screws were stripped because apparently the jackleg that installed it didn't inset the hinges enough so the hinge holes were right in the gaps of the split frame...so they decided to caulk the crap out of it and run the screws in and let caulk hold the hinges lol....so I don't have any casing or excess lumber around but I remembered having some paint stirring sticks laying around... Hot glue and a hammer and about 10 minutes and the deed was done....sadly I think the paint sticks are stronger than the frame at this point....really need to buy a new split jamb...just so people know if you strip a hole in wood you can in a pinch place any splinter slightly larger than the hole...hammer it in until flush then re screw...obviously it's not intended as a permanent fix but it will hold solid for a while until you can replace the part


I've used variations on that trick for decades. If one uses glue with the splinter (multiple toothpicks also work well), the "fix" can be permanent. especially if one lets the glue dry first. I've also drilled out badly stripped holes, glued in a dowel, then redrilled it for the screw. If dealing with softwood, that's usually stronger than the original. In fact, If I have no choice but to screw into the edge grain of plywood, I'll dill out a hole for a dowel, glue it in, and run the screw into the dowel.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I've used variations on that trick for decades. If one uses glue with the splinter (multiple toothpicks also work well), the "fix" can be permanent. especially if one lets the glue dry first. I've also drilled out badly stripped holes, glued in a dowel, then redrilled it for the screw. If dealing with softwood, that's usually stronger than the original. In fact, If I have no choice but to screw into the edge grain of plywood, I'll dill out a hole for a dowel, glue it in, and run the screw into the dowel.


that's actually a good idea with the plywood...it tends to split and not be very strong even when you do a pilot hole so I'm saddened I never even thought of that but I haven't done osb or plywood in quite some time...I did cabinetry for 8 years though...finish work I like much better...the results show your skill or lack thereof


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I was a cabinet maker for a short while before going into warehousing 43 years ago (more money and bennies). I minored in Industrial Arts education in college.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I was a cabinet maker for a short while before going into warehousing 43 years ago (more money and bennies). I minored in Industrial Arts education in college.


I was an installer but I did help a guy making cabinets for about a year...the housing market tanked was why I stopped construction altogether


----------



## santi2104

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> ssd's cost to much and there to small, i struggle for space on my 300gb drive, i got a 1tb drive i used to back up in, but its only got 3gb of space left on it (and i do try and delete anything i dont want) and look at it like this, drive i currnelty have, still really freaken fast, 25$used or 60 new and i could get another one, +300gb of a reliable high performance drive or cheeps. SSD's are not for me, and like i said at the end of the day, its reliability i care about. btw you know whats funny since were talking aobut ram disk? i got a program that i use to convert a chuck of my ram to a fromatable disk. then in vital box i move a disk imige to the ram disk and re mount it and its like HOLY **** 4GB/s DO YOU EVEN LIFT? combine that with 24threads of 3.8ghz and xp's boot is just BAM, desktop! but i set 8gb of ram to drive, 4gb to vbox and that gives me 6gb still left to the system to have 40 tabs open in chrome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also theres no point of me doing the ram drive thing, i have been running a vitral box of windows 98 to play sim-city 2000, (witch cant run on xp) and windows 98 with one core and my sas drive being held back, still takes under 2 seconds to boot... also i got windows 98 to work with 2gb of ram so im proud of that! no more reserving all the ram for the os after 512mb!


Wut, windows xp on two hexacore xeons with + 8gb of ram a gtx 480, that hdd, wow man, thats the most unbalanced and strange system i ever saw, not to mention that you are totally wrong about ssds


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Twinchillputer


----------



## GhettoFied

I am honestly confused what I'm even looking at.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoFied*
> 
> I am honestly confused what I'm even looking at.


Read my sig dude


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *santi2104*
> 
> Wut, windows xp on two hexacore xeons with + 8gb of ram a gtx 480, that hdd, wow man, thats the most unbalanced and strange system i ever saw, not to mention that you are totally wrong about ssds


why? having a os that would only use 80mb of ram is really so bad? but now games are DX11 so i cant scrape by with xd10 mod for xp.. now now im running server 2008 with 20gb of ram.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *santi2104*
> 
> Wut, windows xp on two hexacore xeons with + 8gb of ram a gtx 480, that hdd, wow man, thats the most unbalanced and strange system i ever saw, not to mention that you are totally wrong about ssds


actually you confised me, i read my post, im runnign server 2008 in the post... xp is booted off of the ram drive in vital box. so i have 20gb in this post aswell. i tohught you doug up something from years ago.


----------



## santi2104

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> why? having a os that would only use 80mb of ram is really so bad? but now games are DX11 so i cant scrape by with xd10 mod for xp.. now now im running server 2008 with 20gb of ram.


having a pc thats capable of running 10 windows vista at the same time and using windows xp to save ram is stupid, really, if you have 20gb of ram why the hell are you using windows xp?, is not even capable to allocate more than 4gb of ram, and you have the ram and processing power to run another os


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *santi2104*
> 
> having a pc thats capable of running 10 windows vista at the same time and using windows xp to save ram is stupid, really, if you have 20gb of ram why the hell are you using windows xp?, is not even capable to allocate more than 4gb of ram, and you have the ram and processing power to run another os


what the hell? i just said my os was server 2008, and xp is in a virtal box. also xp's ram cap was 8gb witch back when i ran it on my sr-2.(years ago) thats all i had. i clearly said in both post that i run server 2008 as my main os. read the post before you reply.


----------



## mrteddy

got the saw out and many many zip ties out the other day to get my corsair 650d watercooling ready, still few more mods to go


----------



## 0493mike

Thats really a good trick with the wood screws guys thanks will be using that idea. Amazed how dumb I've been to not think of that. Thanks.


----------



## HITTI

Lol. My old mining rig. 6 gridseeds and one fury. 2 x rpi's. And the rest. Disaster.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> Lol. My old mining rig. 6 gridseeds and one fury. 2 x rpi's. And the rest. Disaster.


Are you still mining?

Nice table setup. I love these. Had a few myself during the mining craze.


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Are you still mining?
> 
> Nice table setup. I love these. Had a few myself during the mining craze.


I got out before it was to late. With the bigger ltc mining machines coming out, there was no profit on the gridseeds and the fury. Btw, the gridseeds were volt modded. I ended up selling all of it. I think I got scammed selling the gridseeds. Guy said he plugged two in and they went up in smoke n I tell him he tried mining BITCOIN on a volt modded gridseed for LITECOIN, he insisted he did everything correct "bs" but I couldn't "PROVE IT". I said heck with it, keep all of em I don't wanna see them again.

Went to watercooling project Lol. Finished it. Then went onto a scooter project lol. In need of a new project soon, maybe I'll start one 2 years after I get a Genuine Roughhouse scooter"2 year warranty". Tune her up to go 50-55mph







...


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HITTI*
> 
> I got out before it was to late. With the bigger ltc mining machines coming out, there was no profit on the gridseeds and the fury. Btw, the gridseeds were volt modded. I ended up selling all of it. I think I got scammed selling the gridseeds. Guy said he plugged two in and they went up in smoke n I tell him he tried mining BITCOIN on a volt modded gridseed for LITECOIN, he insisted he did everything correct "bs" but I couldn't "PROVE IT". I said heck with it, keep all of em I don't wanna see them again.
> 
> Went to watercooling project Lol. Finished it. Then went onto a scooter project lol. In need of a new project soon, maybe I'll start one 2 years after I get a Genuine Roughhouse scooter"2 year warranty". Tune her up to go 50-55mph
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Anything above 40 MPH without a windshield is just insane. [Cue Jeremy Clarkson in lightweight racing car]


----------



## u3b3rg33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Anything above 40 MPH without a windshield is just insane. [Cue Jeremy Clarkson in lightweight racing car]


full face helmets FTW. they work up to 140mph, at least.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I left the house and forgot to put my belt on. I couldn't walk around in work with my pants sagging, so I improvised. I grabbed a bunch of Velcro straps and made a belt.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Anything above 40 MPH without a windshield is just insane. [Cue Jeremy Clarkson in lightweight racing car]


The irony of seeing this post and having my avatar on my profile for over a few months now.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> The irony of seeing this post and having my avatar on my profile for over a few months now.


I really wanted to post that gif when I said that.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> I really wanted to post that gif when I said that.


what else is rather funny is i have been stupid enough to go 100mph on a bike with only a pair of shades on.


----------



## mr squishy

That moment when the page you are on is also a GPU...


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Testing intel NUC5i5MYBE with a M.2 to PCIe x1 adapter to run a sound card for the S/PIDF

12V is provided by a boost converter running from a USB socket : P .


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Testing intel NUC5i5MYBE with a M.2 to PCIe x1 adapter to run a sound card for the S/PIDF
> 
> 12V is provided by a boost converter running from a USB socket : P .


More awesome than ghetto









How many watts is the converter good for and does it cause any noise*edit, optical? guess it can not







* issues(A link to it if you have one)?


----------



## HITTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *u3b3rg33k*
> 
> full face helmets FTW. they work up to 140mph, at least.


My hjc helmet with sunviser


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> More awesome than ghetto
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many watts is the converter good for and does it cause any noise*edit, optical? guess it can not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * issues(A link to it if you have one)?


Haha Thanks : D ,

The optical driver is powered from USB 5V , I just removed the Molex connector and soldered a USB one on instead .

The Buck/Boost converter will deliver up to 24W 19V in / 12V 2A out I have yet to scope it for noise but from what I remember its low .

Unfortunately the sound card shows up as a device in lane 1 in the OS but wont actually do anything :/


----------



## vicyo

The feels I had when I realised I forgot to buy countersunk M3 screws...





So no soldering today


----------



## Jimbags

Are you making your own heatpipe?


----------



## vicyo

Not a heatpipe, but a water block for the 970 VRM. I got the idea from the Fury X cooling


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> Not a heatpipe, but a water block for the 970 VRM. I got the idea from the Fury X cooling


Remember to get some cooling for the coils too.

This is the spot where Fury X failed and fails pretty much any waterblock without proper cooling of coils (either by backplate cooling the PCB(very common solution) or by waterblock cooling them(a rare solution)).


----------



## DesertRat

I built a fast charge port into my rig w/ no soldering, no electrical tape, and no drilling/metal cutting. Just a Leatherman and the pin off the back of my old name badge from work.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1575261/how-to-dedicated-quick-charge-usb-port-built-into-pc


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DesertRat*
> 
> I built a fast charge port into my rig w/ no soldering, no electrical tape, and no drilling/metal cutting. Just a Leatherman and the pin off the back of my old name badge from work.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1575261/how-to-dedicated-quick-charge-usb-port-built-into-pc


That seems sketchy, but still pretty awesome.
Ghetto rigging has gone well for me in the past, I might be able to make this work.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DesertRat*
> 
> I built a fast charge port into my rig w/ no soldering, no electrical tape, and no drilling/metal cutting. Just a Leatherman and the pin off the back of my old name badge from work.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1575261/how-to-dedicated-quick-charge-usb-port-built-into-pc


I think it is great. I did something similar to have usb ports that are OFF with the system(I know EUP/ERP can do this, but in this case it had side effects.). I just used some stripboard and headers to get power from an old floppy connector and connect the usb connectors too(I separated the data because I still wanted DATA if needed). Some devices do not react to shorted data in the same way(mostly in an attempt to ensure only the chargers the company sells work best).

Anyway. Very cool solder free/cut free mod.


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Remember to get some cooling for the coils too.
> 
> This is the spot where Fury X failed and fails pretty much any waterblock without proper cooling of coils (either by backplate cooling the PCB(very common solution) or by waterblock cooling them(a rare solution)).


I have some cheapo chinese copper heatsinks for that


----------



## DR4G00N

My just built ghetto bench. It's temporary, gonna move it somewhere else so I can use dry ice on it.

Yes, it is indeed running Win XP.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> My just built ghetto bench. It's temporary, gonna move it somewhere else so I can use dry ice on it.
> 
> Yes, it is indeed running Win XP.


The best kind of ghetto. No case at all. Love em'


----------



## hakz

^ even the fans are. love it too


----------



## Szarky

My friend wanted to clean his PC.. I also upgraded it a little to improve temps


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> My friend wanted to clean his PC.. I also upgraded it a little to improve temps


He should do something about the power supply . Logic PSU's are very bad. I had one unit giving out 13.12V on 12V line.

And your psu isn't very good either.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1527525/why-you-should-not-buy-an-fsp-raider-evga-supernova-nex750b-aka-b1/0_100
But still much better than any of those junky psu's.


----------



## ronnin426850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> He should do something about the power supply . Logic PSU's are very bad. I had one unit giving out 13.12V on 12V line.
> 
> And your psu isn't very good either.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1527525/why-you-should-not-buy-an-fsp-raider-evga-supernova-nex750b-aka-b1/0_100
> But still much better than any of those junky psu's.


Ah, good old shilka's over-aggressive "THE END IS NIGH! (if you use this PSU)" reviews. Gotta love the man


----------



## Szarky

Ye I know.. Told him that.. I also have checked the psu voltage and have 12.35v and 5.5V. Only 3.3 is OK. That's probably the reason why his gtx 260 ****s artifacts even in Bios. Post is just screen with random ASCII symbols. And also Nvidia driver keeps crushing and throws bsod.

Mine PSU is EVGA nex750G not b
But when we are in topic of PSU's in my second PC, I have BeQuiet E6-500W which have 2 cables to power fans. I was very supprised when i checked the voltage, and it shows that those cables have 5v xD Do you think that's not a bug, that's a feature?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnin426850*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> He should do something about the power supply . Logic PSU's are very bad. I had one unit giving out 13.12V on 12V line.
> 
> And your psu isn't very good either.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1527525/why-you-should-not-buy-an-fsp-raider-evga-supernova-nex750b-aka-b1/0_100
> But still much better than any of those junky psu's.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, good old shilka's over-aggressive "THE END IS NIGH! (if you use this PSU)" reviews. Gotta love the man
Click to expand...

sigh. People will never learn
He never says that. Just that at the time of release there are far better psu avail at a far better price.

The new evga psus are some of the best values out atm and a darn great psu which he also recommends heavily. (P2/g2/t2 )


----------



## ronnin426850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sigh. People will never learn
> He never says that. Just that at the time of release there are far better psu avail at a far better price.
> 
> The new evga psus are some of the best values out atm and a darn great psu which he also recommends heavily. (P2/g2/t2 )


Relax, avid defender of people's honor, I've been a part of many discussions with shilka, he is always very radical about his choice of words. The linked thread is mostly inspired from other review sources, as he explains in the end, and I have no doubt of its correctness. I just think it's funny how he usually expresses himself







For example, one day he told me FPS Hexa will damage my hardware and set my house on fire. I have 3 of those, they work fine on OCed right for 4 years now. See how he likes to exaggerate?







Doesn't mean he's wrong, it's just funny


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronnin426850*
> 
> Relax, avid defender of people's honor, I've been a part of many discussions with shilka, he is always very radical about his choice of words. The linked thread is mostly inspired from other review sources, as he explains in the end, and I have no doubt of its correctness. I just think it's funny how he usually expresses himself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For example, one day he told me FPS Hexa will damage my hardware and set my house on fire. I have 3 of those, they work fine on OCed right for 4 years now. See how he likes to exaggerate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't mean he's wrong, it's just funny


he exaggerates I think to let you know it could be catastrophic for your hardware and other things...but yeah it's interesting sometimes for instance I posted about mine in his why not to buy the rosewill photon 1200...to be fair that one was mild comparatively







BUT there is no denying he knows his stuff so I generally defer to him when making psu choices...so far every recommendation he's made for me worked out wonderfully...


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> Ye I know.. Told him that.. I also have checked the psu voltage and have 12.35v and 5.5V. Only 3.3 is OK. That's probably the reason why his gtx 260 ****s artifacts even in Bios. Post is just screen with random ASCII symbols. And also Nvidia driver keeps crushing and throws bsod.
> 
> Mine PSU is EVGA nex750G not b
> But when we are in topic of PSU's in my second PC, I have BeQuiet E6-500W which have 2 cables to power fans. I was very supprised when i checked the voltage, and it shows that those cables have 5v xD Do you think that's not a bug, that's a feature?


In my experience, that's usually due to the card needing to be reflowed rather than a power supply issue, although I'd advise you to test with a known good unit before making any conclusions. All the cards I've had that artifacted in the BIOS were fixed after a reflow (total of 4 now), mind you, all of them were ghetto reflows in a gas oven but results are results







(200°C for 10 minutes if you were wondering)


----------



## Szarky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> In my experience, that's usually due to the card needing to be reflowed rather than a power supply issue, although I'd advise you to test with a known good unit before making any conclusions. All the cards I've had that artifacted in the BIOS were fixed after a reflow (total of 4 now), mind you, all of them were ghetto reflows in a gas oven but results are results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (200°C for 10 minutes if you were wondering)


I always thought that's 15 minutes in 180°C in electric oven







In my post I meant that this crappy PSU fried this GTX 260 because voltage on 12V was about 12,5 - 12,6V which through few years could made a difference.


----------



## Jump3r

50Kg dumbbell set to counter balance the weight of those tempered glass 27" screens


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> I always thought that's 15 minutes in 180°C in electric oven
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my post I meant that this crappy PSU fried this GTX 260 because voltage on 12V was about 12,5 - 12,6V which through few years could made a difference.


It's hard to say. I cant imagine the die would have run at a higher voltage, but it sure would put a bit of extra stress of the VRMs, possibly even run them out of spec. At the very least it would likely generate more heat than necessary which is going to shorten the lifespan regardless.

A bit more on topic, I just finished ghetto mounting some coolers to my 2P board so I can do some mining/encoding. The tower cooler is mounted with some screws where the push pins used to be. The top-down cooler needed some 20mm standoffs and some screws with springs i salvaged from another heatsink. Using the fan from an Intel stock heatsink since the other one I had was far too loud. Also had to make my own power button with a soldering iron, crimper and a fan header since that's all I have with me at the moment, works fine though.

Picked up a pair of Xeon X5660s on eBay for a decent price, got the board at a steal for $50 and had the rest lying around. I can even get Windows server for free through my university


----------



## mfknjadagr8

hrmmm would be cool to do the opposite of that for a "jumper" on a psu when filling/leak testing a loop... nice


----------



## Powerg4

That's one cool mainboard! Six ram slots!








And $50 is pretty cheap for a board that good!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Szarky*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> In my experience, that's usually due to the card needing to be reflowed rather than a power supply issue, although I'd advise you to test with a known good unit before making any conclusions. All the cards I've had that artifacted in the BIOS were fixed after a reflow (total of 4 now), mind you, all of them were ghetto reflows in a gas oven but results are results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (200°C for 10 minutes if you were wondering)
> 
> 
> 
> I always thought that's 15 minutes in 180°C in electric oven
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my post I meant that this crappy PSU fried this GTX 260 because voltage on 12V was about 12,5 - 12,6V which through few years could made a difference.
Click to expand...

considering atx spec on 12v rail is 12.6 i am sure it is fine

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx12v%20psdg2.01.pdf


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> That's one cool mainboard! Six ram slots!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And $50 is pretty cheap for a board that good!


Actually 12 ram slots, 6 per physical CPU







Here's a better picture of the whole board. Was an old rackmount server board, $50 shipped off ebay, guy must have wanted it gone. Running it on top of a box at the moment



Running 2 6-core Xeons, for a total of 12 cores (24 threads). Only 8gb of ram installed but it's enough for now, considering getting some hard drives to fill up those 6 sata ports and making a file server


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Actually 12 ram slots, 6 per physical CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a better picture of the whole board. Was an old rackmount server board, $50 shipped off ebay, guy must have wanted it gone. Running it on top of a box at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> Running 2 6-core Xeons, for a total of 12 cores (24 threads). Only 8gb of ram installed but it's enough for now, considering getting some hard drives to fill up those 6 sata ports and making a file server


8GB can really get you places.
I need to get a second E5430 for my S5000PSL board. I say you have a nicer board than me, considering the layout and the ports. Is that a LGA771 board, or a different socket?


----------



## smokerings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> 8GB can really get you places.
> I need to get a second E5430 for my S5000PSL board. I say you have a nicer board than me, considering the layout and the ports. Is that a LGA771 board, or a different socket?


They are running two Xeon X5660 cpus which are socket 1366, and the ram slots number like that because it's a triple channel architecture!


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> 8GB can really get you places.
> I need to get a second E5430 for my S5000PSL board. I say you have a nicer board than me, considering the layout and the ports. Is that a LGA771 board, or a different socket?


It's a LGA1366 board, but I also have an old Dell PowerEdge 1900 that uses a dual LGA771 board, that one's running 2 quad core Xeon X5365s with 4GB ram. It's far too loud at the moment so I'm planning to replace the fans in it to make the whole setup run a lot quiter, I'll put some pics up of that when I get around to it. On that topic, does anyone know of any decent, cheap 92mm PWM fans, up to 38mm thickness?


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> 8GB can really get you places.
> I need to get a second E5430 for my S5000PSL board. I say you have a nicer board than me, considering the layout and the ports. Is that a LGA771 board, or a different socket?
> 
> 
> 
> It's a LGA1366 board, but I also have an old Dell PowerEdge 1900 that uses a dual LGA771 board, that one's running 2 quad core Xeon X5365s with 4GB ram. It's far too loud at the moment so I'm planning to replace the fans in it to make the whole setup run a lot quiter, I'll put some pics up of that when I get around to it. On that topic, does anyone know of any decent, cheap 92mm PWM fans, up to 38mm thickness?
Click to expand...

If it runs on FB-DIMMs then get much bigger radiators for the ram as well as for any chipsets (NB/SB/RAID).
In my ML350 G5 the problem with noise was because FB-DIMM run hot.
Improved their cooling(additional 80mm fan) as well as other chipsets(bigger radiators) and even with stock fans it's much more quiet than before.


----------



## Mega Man

I love dual socket boards but I don't need them I have a x10sll and x10sl7. Both are amazing. I love ipmi

One is a freenas 4c8t other is a pfsense server 2c/4t


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> If it runs on FB-DIMMs then get much bigger radiators for the ram as well as for any chipsets (NB/SB/RAID).
> In my ML350 G5 the problem with noise was because FB-DIMM run hot.
> Improved their cooling(additional 80mm fan) as well as other chipsets(bigger radiators) and even with stock fans it's much more quiet than before.


Thanks for the tip! It does run FB-DIMMs but I also think the stock fans are largely to blame, since they run up to about 6000rpm. Will definitely replace the heatsinks when I replace the fans though.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> It's a LGA1366 board, but I also have an old Dell PowerEdge 1900 that uses a dual LGA771 board, that one's running 2 quad core Xeon X5365s with 4GB ram. It's far too loud at the moment so I'm planning to replace the fans in it to make the whole setup run a lot quiter, I'll put some pics up of that when I get around to it. On that topic, does anyone know of any decent, cheap 92mm PWM fans, up to 38mm thickness?


That's actually my current problem in essence, the fans run at 100% all the time, I'll eventually get nicer/quieter fans..
You might be able to find some cheap 92mm PWM Delta fans on eBay. I got one 120mm Delta, and it sounds like a god forsaken jet engine whenever it gains RPM's. I think it died when I tried to run it off of a 9v battery.


----------



## Powerg4

Burnt out the fan on my ghetto laptop last night, have got it sorted now though with a block of pine wood painted black, 3 wood screws, a cable tie and an old 90mm fan!








Runs quiter and cooler than the old one did. The original burnt out because I was powering it with a lm317 variable regulator board and forgot to put the jumper on the 3v output selection, pumping 19v straight into it, went out with a poof!









The project started after I got an old travel mate 230 in bad condition and decided to rebuild it in a plastic case. The clear plastic is actually from the covers of some old record players!









Just need to add in a cheap mini keyboard and bolt it up and it's finished, I even got a wireless mouse for it!

Great for playing pinball on, anyone else remember this game?


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Burnt out the fan on my ghetto laptop last night, have got it sorted now though with a block of pine wood painted black, 3 wood screws, a cable tie and an old 90mm fan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Runs quiter and cooler than the old one did. The original burnt out because I was powering it with a lm317 variable regulator board and forgot to put the jumper on the 3v output selection, pumping 19v straight into it, went out with a poof!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started after I got an old travel mate 230 in bad condition and decided to rebuild it in a plastic case. The clear plastic is actually from the covers of some old record players!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to add in a cheap mini keyboard and bolt it up and it's finished, I even got a wireless mouse for it!
> 
> Great for playing pinball on, anyone else remember this game?


So many hours at school on pinball! Back in about 2000 I think


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Burnt out the fan on my ghetto laptop last night, have got it sorted now though with a block of pine wood painted black, 3 wood screws, a cable tie and an old 90mm fan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Runs quiter and cooler than the old one did. The original burnt out because I was powering it with a lm317 variable regulator board and forgot to put the jumper on the 3v output selection, pumping 19v straight into it, went out with a poof!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The project started after I got an old travel mate 230 in bad condition and decided to rebuild it in a plastic case. The clear plastic is actually from the covers of some old record players!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to add in a cheap mini keyboard and bolt it up and it's finished, I even got a wireless mouse for it!
> 
> *Great for playing pinball on, anyone else remember this game?
> *


I remember Pinball from playing @ Vic's Pizza, in beautiful downtown Wisconsin Rapids, WI - in the late 60's, Sometimes we'd play team Pinball. You get five guys on a team, 1 guy at the controls and 2 guys on each side of the machine to lift it and direct the ball to all the good bumpers and , of coarse, to keep the ball from going down the tubes! We learned dhow to turn off the tilt mechanism! We were smart boys!









BTW: Yo' Ghetto laptah be Fantastic!


----------



## michael-ocn

For your viewing pleasure, let me present my caseless spare bedroom build











I had to dig archaic crt out of some dark hole after the 15 year old lcd panel i had been using went 'pop'. That's a viewsonic gs790 in case anyone's interested in shopping for one.


----------



## DR4G00N

So... I built a better VRM heatsink for my 780 Ti...
(the solder looks pretty cruddy but it has a very good bond with the base).






The heatpipe and fin stack are from an old gpu heatsink.

It'll probably work better than that dinky little aluminum heatsink that is on it now.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> So... I built a better VRM heatsink for my 780 Ti...
> (the solder looks pretty cruddy but it has a very good bond with the base).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The heatpipe and fin stack are from an old gpu heatsink.
> 
> It'll probably work better than that dinky little aluminum heatsink that is on it now.


let's see that thing mounted on the card!!


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> let's see that thing mounted on the card!!


You wanted it, so here it is.
Before:

After:
(I had to cut off some of the Kraken G10 bracket for it to fit & it was causing a bit of sag so I stuck a box underneath to support it).





VRM temps didn't really change much from what I can tell, probably a lack of mounting pressure because of the plastic push pins that I'm using to attach it.
Though core temps happened to drop by 5c because of the repaste.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> You wanted it, so here it is.
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> (I had to cut off some of the Kraken G10 bracket for it to fit & it was causing a bit of sag so I stuck a box underneath to support it).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VRM temps didn't really change much from what I can tell, probably a lack of mounting pressure because of the plastic push pins that I'm using to attach it.
> Though core temps happened to drop by 5c because of the repaste.


lookin good! can always do the o'l zip tie method of mounting for more pressure. get some airflow across those fins too


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> lookin good! can always do the o'l zip tie method of mounting for more pressure. get some airflow across those fins too


The fins have plenty of airflow from the 140mm fan right in front of it.







I'll try using zip ties later.

It is working though, with the gpu at 1405MHz, 1.25V and playing some killing floor 2 the heatpipe and fins were at 38c and the VRM's were at 67c according to my IR thermometer. Gpu core peaked at 47c lol


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> let's see that thing mounted on the card!!


That is mounted. I threaded it from the bottom and used screws.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> You wanted it, so here it is.
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> (I had to cut off some of the Kraken G10 bracket for it to fit & it was causing a bit of sag so I stuck a box underneath to support it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VRM temps didn't really change much from what I can tell, probably a lack of mounting pressure because of the plastic push pins that I'm using to attach it.
> Though core temps happened to drop by 5c because of the repaste.


why do you cool your VRM's so much? i never had mine go critical with no cooling at all.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> why do you cool your VRM's so much? i never had mine go critical with no cooling at all.


I'm putting a lot of volts through my 780 ti; 1.25-1.275V. So they need very good cooling. At 1505MHz 1.275V the vrm peaked at 82c.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I'm putting a lot of volts through my 780 ti; 1.25-1.275V. So they need very good cooling. At 1505MHz 1.275V the vrm peaked at 82c.


82c with or with out cooling? because i would not fuss with anything under 95c, i figure, hay if my core can handle 95c its vrm's could handle it... but i have no idea how hot mine run i just assume its fine because my card is not dead.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 82c with or with out cooling? because i would not fuss with anything under 95c, i figure, hay if my core can handle 95c its vrm's could handle it... but i have no idea how hot mine run i just assume its fine because my card is not dead.


82c with that heatpipe cooler. Without the cooler It'd probably overheat (120c+) within seconds of load.
Regardless, the cooler they are the more stable voltage they can produce and the longer the mosfets last.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 82c with or with out cooling? because i would not fuss with anything under 95c, i figure, hay if my core can handle 95c its vrm's could handle it... but i have no idea how hot mine run i just assume its fine because my card is not dead.


when you overvolt heavily you never want to push the limits of the vrms because they are already being worked hard higher temperatures it's just asking for failure...high temperatures at lower clocks and voltages I'd less chance for spike and fail as opposed to running them ragged without active cooling...sure they might handle 105c ok but any variance in voltage could push them over and let the magic smoke out...imo there's no such thing as too cool


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 82c with or with out cooling? because i would not fuss with anything under 95c, i figure, hay if my core can handle 95c its vrm's could handle it... but i have no idea how hot mine run i just assume its fine because my card is not dead.


Efficiency drops over 75c. So when OC'ing you want as low as temps as you can manage. Usually, you can clock higher with lower temps too, both on the VRM and the core. Both are important when pushing limits.


----------



## Mega Man

7970s/ and older gen. And 290Xs like to have vrms far lower (40s to 50s with pref of lower 40s
Or it will get unstable at the higher clocks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 82c with or with out cooling? because i would not fuss with anything under 95c, i figure, hay if my core can handle 95c its vrm's could handle it... but i have no idea how hot mine run i just assume its fine because my card is not dead.
> 
> 
> 
> when you overvolt heavily you never want to push the limits of the vrms because they are already being worked hard higher temperatures it's just asking for failure...high temperatures at lower clocks and voltages I'd less chance for spike and fail as opposed to running them ragged without active cooling...sure they might handle 105c ok but any variance in voltage could push them over and let the magic smoke out...imo there's no such thing as too cool
Click to expand...

Come on did you not see the lengths he went to avoid custom water. Don't get me wrong. Good for him. But so much quicker to slap a $ 100-150 block on it and keep vrm/mem/core temps 40s - 60s at most


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Come on did you not see the lengths he went to avoid custom water. Don't get me wrong. Good for him. But so much quicker to slap a $ 100-150 block on it and keep vrm/mem/core temps 40s - 60s at most


Your forgetting the $300 of other wc'ing parts needed to use that $150 block.









I'm probably going to get a custom gpu loop soon anyway. The cooler was more of an experiment than anything else.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> when you overvolt heavily you never want to push the limits of the vrms because they are already being worked hard higher temperatures it's just asking for failure...high temperatures at lower clocks and voltages I'd less chance for spike and fail as opposed to running them ragged without active cooling...sure they might handle 105c ok but any variance in voltage could push them over and let the magic smoke out...imo there's no such thing as too cool


well i guss how dose this sound? for real would you do it? for a long time i ran my gtx480 at 870mhz instead of 700 with a modifed fan cruve that 100% at 60c, i overclocked to the speed becase 99% gpu load after 3-5 min would hit critical temps(would never happen in game) and in game i usaly ran around 68-80c(in game load for most games was 90-97%)
ran like that for over a year but i had to stop because the card started artifacting really easly. i assumed thats just normal overclocking aging.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> well i guss how dose this sound? for real would you do it? for a long time i ran my gtx480 at 870mhz instead of 700 with a modifed fan cruve that 100% at 60c, i overclocked to the speed becase 99% gpu load after 3-5 min would hit critical temps(would never happen in game) and in game i usaly ran around 68-80c(in game load for most games was 90-97%)
> ran like that for over a year but i had to stop because the card started artifacting really easly. i assumed thats just normal overclocking aging.


no your overheating finally did it in...you proved my point in your post...if you want it to run and last you have to keep it cool....Will it run over spec and over max heat recommendations sure it will...I guarantee you if you payed 3 to 500 for a card even after it's a few years old you wouldnt run it that way if you cared about using it for long...it's easy to say you bought a 50 dollar card and ran it like hell for a year and it started to artifact...you wouldn't lose much if it died...when you pay a premium for newer cards and items unless you simply don't care about losing it you keep it cool even if you run it hard you keep it cooled sufficiently


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 82c with or with out cooling? because i would not fuss with anything under 95c, i figure, hay if my core can handle 95c its vrm's could handle it... but i have no idea how hot mine run i just assume its fine because my card is not dead.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> 82c with that heatpipe cooler. Without the cooler It'd probably overheat (120c+) within seconds of load.
> Regardless, the cooler they are the more stable voltage they can produce and the longer the mosfets last.


If anything, the VRM's can handle a higher Tjmax than the core die probably can, the difference comes in the temperature dependent characteristics of the regulator modules.

Output voltage deviation of the regulators is going to be higher, stability of the output voltage is going to be lower and the overall efficiency is going to reduce as temperature increases. Basically, the voltage output from the VRMs, which is needed by the core is going to deviate more from ideal values, and is more likely to deviate more with varying load.

It's hard to tell if this will have much of an impact on overall stability of the card but it's definitely not ideal, especially when overclocking, as you're already pushing the hardware beyond it's recommended limits. I would not be surprised at all if this manifested itself as instability. While linear regulators aren't going to give off the kind of ripple that your PSU (or a SMPS) might, if the core can't get the voltage it needs out of the VRMs, it's definitely going to bottleneck your max stable core clock if nothing else.

If you want to squeeze as much performance as possible out of these cards, quality cooling is essential. While water is obviously ideal, making a heatsink out of spare parts is also awesome, and free, and everyone loves free performance


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> no your overheating finally did it in...you proved my point in your post...if you want it to run and last you have to keep it cool....Will it run over spec and over max heat recommendations sure it will...I guarantee you if you payed 3 to 500 for a card even after it's a few years old you wouldnt run it that way if you cared about using it for long...it's easy to say you bought a 50 dollar card and ran it like hell for a year and it started to artifact...you wouldn't lose much if it died...when you pay a premium for newer cards and items unless you simply don't care about losing it you keep it cool even if you run it hard you keep it cooled sufficiently


i payed 200 for my card when i tuned 18... 21 now, i just started needing more out if it so i kept pushing it harder, but i keepted it 15deg below max temp most of the time, stock clock stock fan curve and fresh compound the card like to sit at 95c so i figured 80c was fantastic. and its not just this 480 because i have 2 of them, it as well like to sit at 95c.

aslo i never water cool hardwere unless its on my death bech were im trying to kill it. i would consider using oil to cool something i like, but water cooling setups are so ugly and my sr-2 is so sexxy. so i just use good heat sinks and overclock harder in the winter since i don't run heat and it stays 45F down here. in the summer it stays 75-80F and i cant fun my cpu's above 4.1 ghz with out going above 70 (since my cpus cost 200$ a pice, i only run 3.7 in summer because i had to work my ass of to buy both of them.)... its fall right now and im doing 4.3 and staying blow 60c on max load... its like 60F in here, this is gonna be a fun winter.

BTW the 480 still works great, and i seem to be able to squeeze those clocks out of it agin, i guss spring was creeping around slowly raising my temps.


----------



## battleaxe

Just finished everything. Got fans on the VRMs and here's the results.





At 1250core 1660RAM and 200mv the core reaches 44c, VRM's are both at 65c max. I would say it worked very well. On the old sinks it was well over 80c on these settings.

The best part is that the PC is nearly silent. I can barely hear it 3ft away from behind the desk. Awesome. Should have gone with a custom radiator a long time ago. I have one 360 by 60mm RAD cooling both 290x's.

Pretty happy.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Just finished everything. Got fans on the VRMs and here's the results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 1250core 1660RAM and 200mv the core reaches 44c, VRM's are both at 65c max. I would say it worked very well. On the old sinks it was well over 80c on these settings.
> 
> The best part is that the PC is nearly silent. I can barely hear it 3ft away from behind the desk. Awesome. Should have gone with a custom radiator a long time ago. I have one 360 by 60mm RAD cooling both 290x's.
> 
> Pretty happy.


that's pretty cool...the tower of power


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's pretty cool...the tower of power


Yes. Best I can tell I'm about 8c higher on the VRMs would be with custom blocks. I haven't seen any VRM coolers done by anyone that are this large or do this well. Cost $13 total and some sweat equity.


----------



## Mega Man

Ew 50c vrms ... I wouldn't let mine get that hot.... ever unless doing suicide runs (1.65v) on 290Xs or 1.4+ on 7970


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ew 50c vrms ... I wouldn't let mine get that hot.... ever unless doing suicide runs (1.65v) on 290Xs or 1.4+ on 7970


I take it that's a joke.

One, I can't get full cover blocks for my cards. Two, unless you are running DICE or LN2 I call bull on you putting 1.65v to a 290x. Hard modding the card is the only way I know to get that kind of volts to these cards. Even then, its sketchy at best. Post some proof to prove me wrong, but if you are doing this my guess is your cards are highly modded, hard modded, and you would have to be doing a lot more than just water cooling them to keep temps in check.

And how is 50c too hot on the VRMs exactly? Whatever.

Why are you even posting on this thread if you are so against doing custom modding to the cards air cooling systems and only promote full cover blocks?

You're either joking or trolling.


----------



## battleaxe

I'm not trying to be a jerk. Just a little skeptical. And can't see how getting my temps on air is at all bad.

Just sayin'.


----------



## mllrkllr88

Come join in the 8800 competition fun...lots of ghettoness happing.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Come join in the 8800 competition fun...lots of ghettoness happing.


Now that is Ghetto. Nice.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Now that is Ghetto. Nice.


that's pretty badass lol


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Come join in the 8800 competition fun...lots of ghettoness happing.


I have been keeping an eye on that thread, but I only have a 8800GTX(not using those things)

I have a question, Do many caps in parallel like that perform better than less capacitors of a higher rating(same total rating overall)?


----------



## mllrkllr88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I have a question, Do many caps in parallel like that perform better than less capacitors of a higher rating(same total rating overall)?


Too bad the GTX is not allowed. As for the caps, its much better to have multiple caps in parallel vs one cap of the same value.

Why? Well, its all about total ESR that you introduce into he system. Think of caps as having tiny resistors built in, so when you put resistors in parallel is half's the total resistance. The more caps you put in parallel, the more you decrease the inherent resistance thus introducing lots of capacitance without resistance.

The bigger question is does introducing ESR really matter for something like this? The answer is maybe...but why now have some fun building cap banks for max win


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> ...but why now have some fun building cap banks for max win


You would love the cap banks I used to handle:


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ew 50c vrms ... I wouldn't let mine get that hot.... ever unless doing suicide runs (1.65v) on 290Xs or 1.4+ on 7970


how is 50c hot? thats startup cold.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mllrkllr88*
> 
> Come join in the 8800 competition fun...lots of ghettoness happing.


closest card i has to that is 7900gs. i went from 2005 card to a 2010 card so i missed out on alot.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ew 50c vrms ... I wouldn't let mine get that hot.... ever unless doing suicide runs (1.65v) on 290Xs or 1.4+ on 7970
> 
> 
> 
> how is 50c hot? thats startup cold.
Click to expand...

Mine stay in low 30s to 40s. Even in 40s is heavy ocing and when I push high voltage it is called suicide runs for a reason.

I don't like seeing 40s in normal day to day.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine stay in low 30s to 40s. Even in 40s is heavy ocing and when I push high voltage it is called suicide runs for a reason.
> 
> I don't like seeing 40s in normal day to day.


but 40c isnt that blow 100F? its just seems ridiculous to be worried about such low tempos, i really doubt you gonna melt a component.


----------



## Nukemaster

40c is about 104f.

From a switching transistor stand point it is VERY safe,

Stock VRMS can run well into the 90-100c are on some cards simply because these transistors are rated for 125-150c in most cases. It does still hurt efficiency to an extent and colder parts DO last longer in the log run.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine stay in low 30s to 40s. Even in 40s is heavy ocing and when I push high voltage it is called suicide runs for a reason.
> 
> I don't like seeing 40s in normal day to day.


I get what you are saying. And from a technical perspective you might be right. But, here a few things to think about when you see posts on this thread in particular. We like to mod our own gear for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, we do so out of necessity, curiosity, improving engineering, or just for the fun of it. This thread is not about throwing on a block and getting the lowest temps. We like to mod, and screw around with our hardware. Some of these folks don't have the money to drop on gear such as in your sig rig.

I understand what you are saying but this is the wrong place to poke at what mods these guys are doing. We like to do things different for all the above reasons I stated. Its not just about getting the lowest temps with a block that someone else manufactured. You are more likely to see someone here machine their own block than to buy something off the shelf, which would be costly, but this group likes to think up different, new ways of doing the same thing.

No-one here is going to argue that a full cover block is not the better lower temp way to go long term. But think about the college kid who has his mom and dads old PC and just wants to make it a little bit better on a shoe-string budget. Or, and old fart like me who just likes to screw around with his PC and do things my own way too. There are lots of us weird folks on here like me. Not saying you are wrong, but you might think about this when posting remarks that could insult someone's hard work to do it different, and cheaper too I might add.

Is that logical?


----------



## santi2104

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine stay in low 30s to 40s. Even in 40s is heavy ocing and when I push high voltage it is called suicide runs for a reason.
> 
> I don't like seeing 40s in normal day to day.


40 ºc?, is this a joke?, use cards like a radeon 4890 and measure the vrm temps, it wont be less than 90-100 while gaming, those cards produce a lot of heat, i really wouldnt be worried for 40º in any kind of electronics


----------



## Powerg4

Awesome job on the heatsinks, it has made a real difference in temperatures from the sounds of it!
They also look way better than the stock ones!









I like to salvage the heatsinks from old computer PSU's, nice and big and expensive to buy on their own when you can get them for nothing from some old dead supply!









And nothing wrong with 40-60c either, I'm happy with my stuff running at that temp as long as it stays around there, don't like to see it getting more than 80 though!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine stay in low 30s to 40s. Even in 40s is heavy ocing and when I push high voltage it is called suicide runs for a reason.
> 
> I don't like seeing 40s in normal day to day.
> 
> 
> 
> but 40c isnt that blow 100F? its just seems ridiculous to be worried about such low tempos, i really doubt you gonna melt a component.
Click to expand...

And I never said you would
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Mine stay in low 30s to 40s. Even in 40s is heavy ocing and when I push high voltage it is called suicide runs for a reason.
> 
> I don't like seeing 40s in normal day to day.
> 
> 
> 
> I get what you are saying. And from a technical perspective you might be right. But, here a few things to think about when you see posts on this thread in particular. We like to mod our own gear for a variety of reasons. Sometimes, we do so out of necessity, curiosity, improving engineering, or just for the fun of it. This thread is not about throwing on a block and getting the lowest temps. We like to mod, and screw around with our hardware. Some of these folks don't have the money to drop on gear such as in your sig rig.
> 
> I understand what you are saying but this is the wrong place to poke at what mods these guys are doing. We like to do things different for all the above reasons I stated. Its not just about getting the lowest temps with a block that someone else manufactured. You are more likely to see someone here machine their own block than to buy something off the shelf, which would be costly, but this group likes to think up different, new ways of doing the same thing.
> 
> No-one here is going to argue that a full cover block is not the better lower temp way to go long term. But think about the college kid who has his mom and dads old PC and just wants to make it a little bit better on a shoe-string budget. Or, and old fart like me who just likes to screw around with his PC and do things my own way too. There are lots of us weird folks on here like me. Not saying you are wrong, but you might think about this when posting remarks that could insult someone's hard work to do it different, and cheaper too I might add.
> 
> Is that logical?
Click to expand...

I never made fun of anyone's attempt. I did state it is amazing what some will do ( esp with modding aio units) when it is far better to go full cover and cheaper in the long run. And that 50c is hot.

What you are forgetting is above 40c can and will affect ocing. Is it bad. No. Will it? Yes it does.


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And I never said you would
> I never made fun of anyone's attempt. I did state it is amazing what some will do ( esp with modding aio units) when it is far better to go full cover and cheaper in the long run. And that 50c is hot.
> 
> What you are forgetting is above 40c can and will affect ocing. Is it bad. No. Will it? Yes it does.


Again. You are on the wrong thread.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Again. You are on the wrong thread.


He isnt really, consideroing its relevant. But Im not here to argue someonr post something ghetto already :-D


----------



## RockeyDA

yay, i got new eng enamel, but its to cold out to paint. >:U and its only gonna get colder... maby if i take my parts out side, paint them, then dry them inside it will still cure right.


----------



## Nukemaster

While un-recommended, it may work. This assumes the paint and all the parts to paint are inside first so the surface is not too cold.

Many paints used to recommend painting over 10c while some of the newer stuff lists down to 2c.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> While un-recommended, it may work. This assumes the paint and all the parts to paint are inside first so the surface is not too cold.
> 
> Many paints used to recommend painting over 10c while some of the newer stuff lists down to 2c.


wels its in the 40's and the paint says 50's lowest...
yesterdays painting came out good, and today im doing some quick painting inside.

what i did yesterday turned out FREKEN AWESOME!


i destroyed the green geforce logo trying to scrape the green off and taking to much black off with it.

its in the 30's today so disied to take on another paining project inside. this one is simple and i will post when its done in like 5hr

and this is how im combating the paint fumes, cant smell a thing.


----------



## Regnitto

Nice paint job, @RockeyDA

I don't know how ghetto this is, but I just added a keyboard tray to my homemade computer desk. I think I did pretty good for eye-balling about 80% of it. Cost me just under $10 in hardware since I already had the wood.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> wels its in the 40's and the paint says 50's lowest...
> yesterdays painting came out good, and today im doing some quick painting inside.
> 
> what i did yesterday turned out FREKEN AWESOME!
> 
> 
> i destroyed the green geforce logo trying to scrape the green off and taking to much black off with it.
> 
> its in the 30's today so disied to take on another paining project inside. this one is simple and i will post when its done in like 5hr
> 
> and this is how im combating the paint fumes, cant smell a thing.


that does look nice...I like it better without the logo


----------



## RockeyDA

UPDATE: im done with the other card.. came out surprisingly well!



My camera did not pick up the true intensity of the green, so i took a pic with my webcam with has better color.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> UPDATE: im done with the other card.. came out surprisingly well!
> 
> 
> 
> My camera did not pick up the true intensity of the green, so i took a pic with my webcam with has better color.


I will buy that card off you right now.


----------



## Nukemaster

That paint job is awesome.

I was reading the post via email and I knew before coming over what you would have to fight off the paint fumes from an earlier picture.

That turned out looking great(love the green.).

EDIT. maybe some photo editing can make it look more like you see it









This may be too much.It starts to overtake some detail in the images.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I actually like the less saturated green look from your camera


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> That paint job is awesome.
> 
> I was reading the post via email and I knew before coming over what you would have to fight off the paint fumes from an earlier picture.
> 
> That turned out looking great(love the green.).
> 
> EDIT. maybe some photo editing can make it look more like you see it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This may be too much.It starts to overtake some detail in the images.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thanks, im adding these color corected versions to imgur so i can show off with correct colors!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> I will buy that card off you right now.


Well this is kinda a card for a gaming rig im building for my cousin as a Christmas present... operation super cheep under 300$ of awsome! 2 proeesesers 4 cores 3ghz, 24gb 667 ram, Gtx 660 SC, and a 20 year old dell case or something i haven't decided yet. oh and power supply is gonna be a 300w spare from my closet. currently spent 270$ and i have ordered everything needed.

BUUUUT, if you covered shipping cost and slipped me like 20-30$ i would do this to anything you wanted.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> BUUUUT, if you covered shipping cost and slipped me like 20-30$ i would do this to anything you wanted.


Tempting haha, but I don't have any spare Gpu's. That sounds like one heck of a budget build though, do you have a build log?


----------



## battleaxe

Latest pic of the build. Using AIO pumps on GPU cores and large 360 aftermarket cooler.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battleaxe*
> 
> Latest pic of the build. Using AIO pumps on GPU cores and large 360 aftermarket cooler.


Looks good.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Tempting haha, but I don't have any spare Gpu's. That sounds like one heck of a budget build though, do you have a build log?


whats a build log? like my amizon/ebay purchases history or something?
oh and i guss if you ever did have a spar part you wanted me to paint like a gpu or something, but your to worried to ship it because i could run off with it, keep in mind the coolers come off really easily.
i know for me if i were to do something like that i would be in fear that some one would not give the card back.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> *whats a build log?* like my amizon/ebay purchases history or something?
> oh and i guss if you ever did have a spar part you wanted me to paint like a gpu or something, but your to worried to ship it because i could run off with it, keep in mind the coolers come off really easily.
> i know for me if i were to do something like that i would be in fear that some one would not give the card back.


Build logs are just a post with information and pictures on a build you have done.

So it would start with the card or system and some pre mod images. You would add pictures of the build or mod in progress and finally finish images and information.

This lets users see the steps taken for a project.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jump3r*
> 
> 50Kg dumbbell set to counter balance the weight of those tempered glass 27" screens


Love it


----------



## Gereti

*Lets play a game*

It's my time again, start playing with dualpsu pc


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Build logs are just a post with information and pictures on a build you have done.
> 
> So it would start with the card or system and some pre mod images. You would add pictures of the build or mod in progress and finally finish images and information.
> 
> This lets users see the steps taken for a project.


nope







im wingin it from start to finish! but if i mod the case i guess i will take a pic before i do it. got to make a 20 year old dell case look cool! i have a few more laying around, but im gonna use the smallest case everything easily fits in, most likely from this pile.

since i got some new cutting bits and replaced my broken dremel... i might end up putting a fiberglass panel in one of the cases. depends on which one i go for witch im not worring about till all the parts come in the mail.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> *Lets play a game*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's my time again, start playing with dualpsu pc


I know this feel!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> I know this feel!


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> nope
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im wingin it from start to finish! but if i mod the case i guess i will take a pic before i do it. got to make a 20 year old dell case look cool! i have a few more laying around, but im gonna use the smallest case everything easily fits in, most likely from this pile.
> 
> since i got some new cutting bits and replaced my broken dremel... i might end up putting a fiberglass panel in one of the cases. depends on which one i go for witch im not worring about till all the parts come in the mail.


Hot damn, it's hard to accept that those bullet proof Windows 98/95 computers are about 20 years old. I feel like my Dell Dimension from 2007 is just a couple of years old, not 8 (soon to be 9).


----------



## RockeyDA

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*






OMG OMG I LOVE IT







#2Legit2Quit


----------



## mr squishy

I finally have some good stuff to contribute to this thread









So first off, I recieved an Arctic Freezer A11 in the mail, but it was missing the screws to mount the cooler to the mounts. I didn't know what to do until I looked at my NZXT led kit, which I got as a bonus with my purchase (I got a great deal off the classifieds here on OCN) and realized that the screws were the PERFECT thread. So I used those screws to secure the cooler to the mounts, then I used some random other screws to repair the LED strip. After that, I realized my crappy case wasn't fitting the pci bracket for the LED controller, so I used a hammer and screwdriver to chisel out a part of the side. It fits perfectly now. Here are some pics:


That screw came from here:

(you can see I just grabbed whatever screws would fit







)

And here is the part of the case I modified:


----------



## RockeyDA

Newer gpu's are pissing me off with only 1 DVI-A port, dose this display port called display port put out a VGA compatible analog signal?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Newer gpu's are pissing me off with only 1 DVI-A port, dose this display port called display port put out a VGA compatible analog signal?


I think there are adapters to dvi but im not sure about vga signal


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Newer gpu's are pissing me off with only 1 DVI-A port, dose this display port called display port put out a VGA compatible analog signal?


No, DP is a digital connection, packet-based. If you want to VGA, you need an active converter.


----------



## RnRollie

but why would you need an old analog VGA signal? Except if you are still driving an analog CRT monitor?


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> No, DP is a digital connection, packet-based. If you want to VGA, you need an active converter.


which can be found form $1-5 on eBay I'm using 2 to get my 1280*1024 eyefynity with free/$5 monitors


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Newer gpu's are pissing me off with only 1 DVI-A port, dose this display port called display port put out a VGA compatible analog signal?
> 
> 
> 
> No, DP is a digital connection, packet-based. If you want to VGA, you need an active converter.
Click to expand...

not totally true.

It is gpu dependant you can put 2-3 nonactive adapters on since the 79xx and iirc even going back to 5xxx however I have no idea about nvidia.

And all I can say is hdmi and dvi need to die out already. Let alone vga


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And all I can say is hdmi and dvi need to die out already. Let alone vga


For sure. Enough already.


----------



## Jimbags

Haha none of my monitors are dp yet and my htpc is conected through hdmi to a reciever which then hdmi's to the TV


----------



## Boinz

I'm still using a VGA only 20 inch 1680*1050 samsung lcd.


----------



## M3nta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And all I can say is hdmi and dvi need to die out already. Let alone vga


VGA i agree with, it should be quietly retired. Served its purpose very well. But why do HDMI and DVI need to be retired? cuz displayport and its cables are literally twice the cost, for average joe bob I really cant see why DVI or HDMI should be killed off. DVI maybe could be killed (i like my screws tho, feels better than locks for me), but HDMI works very well and everyone has it.


----------



## Nukemaster

We keep lots for backwards compatibility.

HDMI will likely be the standard for a while and updates to get higher bandwidth until the medium it self can no longer handle it.

DVI with it dual links still does things HDMI can not on some older hardware configs. I love the secure connection of this connector still, but HDMI seems to stay put fine.

VGA. Yeah its old, but I would run a VGA screen until it dies(why not you have it anyway).

Displayport. I can not comment even with my monitor having display port, I have a dual link DVI cable. Why? Because I already had it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3nta1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And all I can say is hdmi and dvi need to die out already. Let alone vga
> 
> 
> 
> VGA i agree with, it should be quietly retired. Served its purpose very well. But why do HDMI and DVI need to be retired? cuz displayport and its cables are literally twice the cost, for average joe bob I really cant see why DVI or HDMI should be killed off. DVI maybe could be killed (i like my screws tho, feels better than locks for me), but HDMI works very well and everyone has it.
Click to expand...

huh? Last 15ft display port cable bought was like 5-10. How is that more expensive then hdmi? Moreover I wish we would just get rid of crap proprietary connections. And just use cat5/5a/6/6a/6e.... eventually fiber. The only connection that will never coast an arm and a leg and will always be faster then we need for our res


----------



## mr squishy

Today I learned to never use a 35 foot HDMI cable.


----------



## Mega Man

You can. But they make hdmi cables with "repeaters" in it


----------



## Roxborough

ROFL "The more you struggle, the farther you get sucked in"


----------



## lemans81

All my time here.....never seen this thread, but its pretty much the story of my life.

Here is a fun one, I am not sure when I modded this so that it had a fan adapter full time, I assume I meant to solder but never got there.



And the other day I found finally found a cpu cooler for a build I am putting together for my kids, using an ancient cpu....but found the stock fan was broken at some point...so...yeah this creation was formed.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemans81*
> 
> All my time here.....never seen this thread, but its pretty much the story of my life.
> 
> Here is a fun one, I am not sure when I modded this so that it had a fan adapter full time, I assume I meant to solder but never got there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the other day I found finally found a cpu cooler for a build I am putting together for my kids, using an ancient cpu....but found the stock fan was broken at some point...so...yeah this creation was formed.


Should cool well and be much quieter than a small fan moving the same amount of air.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Installing a second drive in my laptop, I realized I don't have another caddy.

Never mind.



And installed:


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Installing a second drive in my laptop, I realized I don't have another caddy.
> 
> Never mind.
> 
> 
> 
> And installed:


that's pretty slick I gotta say..."we don't need no stinking caddy!"


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> but why would you need an old analog VGA signal? Except if you are still driving an analog CRT monitor?


but i am, [email protected] 75Hz with rich burning phosphors for deep colors and ultra low lantency


----------



## RockeyDA

COUSINS COMPUTER UPDATE!!!!!

so as i said before i painted the gtx 660 for a rig im building for dirt cheep for my cousen, i should be done tomroow but here is my progress on it.... not bad for an old packerd bell case.





you can see the paneling that's gonna go around the case in the first pic, the bottom and side are fiberglass now


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Today I learned to never use a 35 foot HDMI cable.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can. But they make hdmi cables with "repeaters" in it


A potentially better solution is to get CAT5e/6 extenders for long runs. Usually works out cheaper per metre, allows variable length and makes it easy to make your own length cables and to repair them if they get damaged.


----------



## Mega Man

<< not fighting you !

as i said time to let it die altogether


----------



## weespid

while getting back to the ghetto my daily phone's charging port broke PSU to charge it and while I was at it I desidesd to stack my two batteries in parallel

edit 2 here you go



sorry for the potato quality


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> while getting back to the ghetto my daily phone's charging port broke PSU to charge it and while I was at it I desidesd to stack my two batteries in parrlel


pics?


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> pics?


there up now just could not upload them from my tablet. should be good now


----------



## -Leopold-

Re-Painted my ASUS GTX 660 OC:


The untouched one.


Then disassembled all parts. Its a little bit dusty :S.


After cleaned it...


...it looks like fresh out-of-the-box







.


After this, i give it a simple blue-stained look...


... and simply put it togehter. Finished.

Maybe this looks good in a complete blue-stained rig or something like that.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

A relatively clean mod, but still a ghetto fix that was free vs the $10 to get a northbridge heatsink.

Long story short, this mobo comes with a horrendous piece of stamped tin that has no cooling fins with a tiny fan plopped inside. I can't see how this offered any effective cooling. The knucklehead that stole the GPU out of it destroyed the top PCIe port and ripped the connector off of said fan. I would have repaired it but the plastic fan melted together and not salvagable. I popped a heatsink off of an AM2 board that has an unfixable USB short. It fits perfectly over the nForce4 chipset. I would like a different case for this thing, like an antec Sonata or similar. So... Yeah.. see pics

Stock Asus heatsink.... :/ Truly unbelievable design.



The heatsink I used.



Bonus Photo:


Specs:
Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe w/ dual Gigabit lan (how pointless, right?)
AMD Athlon 64 3500+ 2.2Ghz x1
2.5GB DDR 400mhz
MSI Nvidia 7300LE
320GB ATA-166 IDE HDD
450W Xpower PSU
Windows XP Pro SP3 (doesn't have important enough data to really be concerned with vulnerabilities)

(I also used electrical tape to hold the IDE cable boots in place because they kept sliding off and exposing the IDE wiring)

This whole thing was in a sense rigged together... But makes a proper little old school gaming rig (Windows 8 and onward can't run things like GTA San Andreas or Rollercoaster Tycoon worth a crap)


----------



## richie_2010

My heatsink mod on my ssd.

Just ran atto and touched the enzotech sinks and they get toasty


----------



## GhettoFied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> Re-Painted my ASUS GTX 660 OC:
> 
> Maybe this looks good in a complete blue-stained rig or something like that.


Looks super good man. Reminds me of the blue tiger gun skin in Modern Warfare. Almost exactly!


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> while getting back to the ghetto my daily phone's charging port broke PSU to charge it and while I was at it I desidesd to stack my two batteries in parallel
> 
> edit 2 here you go
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the potato quality


You can only surpass this by charging a phone using a potato.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You can only surpass this by charging a phone using a potato.


i was about to say....plot twist guys phone is taking the photo of itself...


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You can only surpass this by charging a phone using a potato.
> 
> 
> 
> i was about to say....plot twist guys phone is taking the photo of itself...
Click to expand...

Easy. Mirrors.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> I
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> You can only surpass this by charging a phone using a potato.
> 
> 
> 
> i was about to say....plot twist guys phone is taking the photo of itself...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Easy. Mirrors.
Click to expand...

Or.. GLaDOS is installed on the phone....


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> while getting back to the ghetto my daily phone's charging port broke PSU to charge it and while I was at it I desidesd to stack my two batteries in parallel
> 
> edit 2 here you go
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the potato quality


What voltage are you using for that bad boy? Think Ivcould charge my old nokia 7250i like this?


----------



## highoctane

So I have this open running "computer" sitting on top of a drawer next to my desk for some months now, but every time that i need to move it, I have to unplug all the cables from the psu and such and it was just a hassle. So I turned my H50 AIO packaging box into the housing for the psu, a dvd-rom reader, 1 ssd, and usb hub with the mobo sitting on top of it.

Make it a whole lots easier to move around now.


----------



## Mega Man

cute actually


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> *Lets play a game*
> 
> It's my time again, start playing with dualpsu pc


I wouldn't use those two PSU's together.
Both are pretty much "the best out of the worst".
They don't have amazing efficiency and their ripple is high.
But at least the protection circuits work properly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> while getting back to the ghetto my daily phone's charging port broke PSU to charge it and while I was at it I desidesd to stack my two batteries in parallel
> 
> edit 2 here you go
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the potato quality


If this is usb port there then remember to connect Data+ and Data- together (0.5A mode).
Otherwise the charging is stuck at 0.1A

Some cardboard,screws,tape and some foam.
Makes a good dust filter.
This is Koliber. On top you have 20KG (IIRC) weight plate to get rid of vibration.

Some candy packaging stuffed into empty places to ensure all intake air comes through filter.
Also all other intakes are closed with tape. I tried my best to cover as much holes as possible(the biggest problem is lack of I/O shield though).


The filter is like this
Foam->Cardboard "shroud" (keeps foam away from blades and prevents the air from entering from sides)->fan


----------



## HZCH

Want to avoid using the HHD trays in your node 304? No more money for some shiny 2TB SSDs, or even a 2'5" SSHD?

*VELCRO ALL THE THINGS!*





I mainly made this because I wanted to remove the upper bar, and ended breaking a screw... (like the ATX PSU bracket btw)


----------



## RockeyDA

UPDATES SOON<
i hit a wall while building the gameing rig for cheeps for my cousen.... turns once i got ahold of the super micro bored model#, it cant handle cpu's with a fsb of 1333mhz, 1066 was the highest. so now i got 2 2.8ghz quad cores in it with a 1066fsb and i think still 12m of l3 chach per chip.

also im not done with case mods, i have to dremmele out the back panel to use normal sized screws for a normal power supply and i need to make some switches so its like, no lights, one side, all sides... because those ground effects lights are really bright.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I wouldn't use those two PSU's together.
> Both are pretty much "the best out of the worst".
> They don't have amazing efficiency and their ripple is high.
> But at least the protection circuits work properly.


...Yes i know that very... very well... and that is the reason why i have those laying on and not in use...
...Modecom premium's 350W model was even in finland's Tukes's listings listed has "hazardous for life" becose it had possibility to cause elektrick shock...


----------



## marfmaster26

haha these are great


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I wouldn't use those two PSU's together.
> Both are pretty much "the best out of the worst".
> They don't have amazing efficiency and their ripple is high.
> But at least the protection circuits work properly.
> If this is usb port there then remember to connect Data+ and Data- together (0.5A mode).
> Otherwise the charging is stuck at 0.1A
> 
> Some cardboard,screws,tape and some foam.
> Makes a good dust filter.
> This is Koliber. On top you have 20KG (IIRC) weight plate to get rid of vibration.
> 
> Some candy packaging stuffed into empty places to ensure all intake air comes through filter.
> Also all other intakes are closed with tape. I tried my best to cover as much holes as possible(the biggest problem is lack of I/O shield though).
> 
> 
> The filter is like this
> Foam->Cardboard "shroud" (keeps foam away from blades and prevents the air from entering from sides)->fan


ya data + and - are bridged inside the phone as much as I love ghetto filter mods I have pulled all the filters out oh my air 540 and got some measurable temp drop.


----------



## blooder11181

i lap my powermac g4 dual 800mhz quicksilver heatsink.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> i lap my powermac g4 dual 800mhz quicksilver heatsink.


Pics then?


----------



## blooder11181

still testing but these heatsinks have a bad surface and use the same pentium 4 thermal pad


----------



## RockeyDA

OK GUYS IM BACK!!! and i finaly finished my cousins rig, sorry it took me so long, the cpu's i bought had a FSB of 1333 and turns out the MB could only handle up to 1066. can run Black ops 3 in 1080P on ultra of AA is off, the light things are off and the shadow things are off 45fps. gta v on ultra 40fps 1080p with AA on 2x, distance scaling low and long shadows off(woo no lag on max vegetation) 500gb hdd and 24gb of ram, and now 2.8ghz quads.

here is how it started, That Packerd Bell case in the lower left.


the knob is a 5k ohm variable resistor for dimming lights, im in a well light room and if you look at my woofer and chair you see shadows being casted from this light, so dimming was a must.


Dew to trying to save room i did not plug the floppy in, but the motherboard can take it.




The lights were a strip of ground efects water proof leds intended for use on a car, all the coloring was eng enamel, and i just cut and hot glued fiberglass on the bottom, and bent it till it fit in the gaps on the top and bottum, only 2 screw holes lined up with the super micro bord so i grabbed some pliers and ripped the others off, and held the bord in place and used more hot glue. the original power supply used really tiny screws so to replace it i had to cut bigger holes on the back pannel.
So did i win at ghetto case mods?


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> OK GUYS IM BACK!!! and i finaly finished my cousins rig, sorry it took me so long, the cpu's i bought had a FSB of 1333 and turns out the MB could only handle up to 1066. can run Black ops 3 in 1080P on ultra of AA is off, the light things are off and the shadow things are off 45fps. gta v on ultra 40fps 1080p with AA on 2x, distance scaling low and long shadows off(woo no lag on max vegetation) 500gb hdd and 24gb of ram, and now 2.8ghz quads.
> 
> here is how it started, That Packerd Bell case in the lower left.
> 
> 
> the knob is a 5k ohm variable resistor for dimming lights, im in a well light room and if you look at my woofer and chair you see shadows being casted from this light, so dimming was a must.
> 
> 
> Dew to trying to save room i did not plug the floppy in, but the motherboard can take it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lights were a strip of ground efects water proof leds intended for use on a car, all the coloring was eng enamel, and i just cut and hot glued fiberglass on the bottom, and bent it till it fit in the gaps on the top and bottum, only 2 screw holes lined up with the super micro bord so i grabbed some pliers and ripped the others off, and held the bord in place and used more hot glue. the original power supply used really tiny screws so to replace it i had to cut bigger holes on the back pannel.
> So did i win at ghetto case mods?


Not bad at all? Good work. Can you list the full specs?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> OK GUYS IM BACK!!! and i finaly finished my cousins rig, sorry it took me so long, the cpu's i bought had a FSB of 1333 and turns out the MB could only handle up to 1066. can run Black ops 3 in 1080P on ultra of AA is off, the light things are off and the shadow things are off 45fps. gta v on ultra 40fps 1080p with AA on 2x, distance scaling low and long shadows off(woo no lag on max vegetation) 500gb hdd and 24gb of ram, and now 2.8ghz quads.
> 
> here is how it started, That Packerd Bell case in the lower left.
> 
> 
> the knob is a 5k ohm variable resistor for dimming lights, im in a well light room and if you look at my woofer and chair you see shadows being casted from this light, so dimming was a must.
> 
> 
> Dew to trying to save room i did not plug the floppy in, but the motherboard can take it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lights were a strip of ground efects water proof leds intended for use on a car, all the coloring was eng enamel, and i just cut and hot glued fiberglass on the bottom, and bent it till it fit in the gaps on the top and bottum, only 2 screw holes lined up with the super micro bord so i grabbed some pliers and ripped the others off, and held the bord in place and used more hot glue. the original power supply used really tiny screws so to replace it i had to cut bigger holes on the back pannel.
> So did i win at ghetto case mods?


Nope, you did much too professional looking of a job to qualify as "ghetto" (a misuse of the word since ghetto just means an ethnic, religious, or socioeconomic neighborhood or community within a larger community, such as a city; a ghetto isn't necessarily a slum). For creativity? Kudos!


----------



## doyll

What Lady Fitzgerald said.









Looks like a winning entry in the "Cantermod" (Cannibalized Computer Modification) class to me.


----------



## Powerg4

Had some fun recently with an old emachine I found on the roadside collections a while back but only just got around to playing with!








A PII based celeron with 32mb RAM!

Needed a new PSU as it was dead but I didn't have one that was the same as the original OEM form factor as the original, so I took it all apart, removed a few bits of metal with the dremel and managed to get a normal ATX sized supply into the case, held in by a zip tie (quite securely to my surprise!









Next upgraded the ram from 32mb to 128mb, (had some old ram sticks around, it was all that would fit inside since it's so old.
Also installed a 20gb hard disk I've had for a while but had no use for!
The side panel was originally all white but after being buried under a pile of junk in the shed for about 2 years it was all scratched, so I gave it a quick coat of gloss black spray paint which looks a bit better!









Installing Windows 98 was a rather painful process as it kept crashing, but after setting up a nice big fan next to the cpu slot mounted heatsink it stopped crashing as often!

Installing all the drivers manually took forever, especially finding ones that worked for the ancient sound card! I gave up trying to get the usb drivers to work, I've just been burning disks for it instead to transfer games!

Have got it all working now and have been playing some old games such as Pod, need to find some more!


----------



## ericbau

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






> Had some fun recently with an old emachine I found on the roadside collections a while back but only just got around to playing with!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A PII based celeron with 32mb RAM!
> 
> Needed a new PSU as it was dead but I didn't have one that was the same as the original OEM form factor as the original, so I took it all apart, removed a few bits of metal with the dremel and managed to get a normal ATX sized supply into the case, held in by a zip tie (quite securely to my surprise!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next upgraded the ram from 32mb to 128mb, (had some old ram sticks around, it was all that would fit inside since it's so old.
> Also installed a 20gb hard disk I've had for a while but had no use for!
> The side panel was originally all white but after being buried under a pile of junk in the shed for about 2 years it was all scratched, so I gave it a quick coat of gloss black spray paint which looks a bit better!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installing Windows 98 was a rather painful process as it kept crashing, but after setting up a nice big fan next to the cpu slot mounted heatsink it stopped crashing as often!
> 
> Installing all the drivers manually took forever, especially finding ones that worked for the ancient sound card! I gave up trying to get the usb drivers to work, I've just been burning disks for it instead to transfer games!
> 
> Have got it all working now and have been playing some old games such as Pod, need to find some more!


----------



## blooder11181




----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*


does it work? Or rather, did it lower temps much?


----------



## blooder11181

maybee. halo 1 runs a little better


----------



## battleaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blooder11181*
> 
> maybee. halo 1 runs a little better


Halo 1... awesomesauce!


----------



## weespid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> What voltage are you using for that bad boy? Think Ivcould charge my old nokia 7250i like this?


5v just like the usb that was originally there it appears it should work as seen here although i bleave putting an 1a fuse in the line will help prevent from backwards connections/ accidental connections to the 12v rail









http://cellphoneforums.net/alt-cellular-nokia/t95722-what-difference-between-these-nokia-chargers.html#axzz3rEiogoAr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *"*
> 
> ACP-7U and ACP-8U ?
> 
> Disregarding the "U" ... here's my issue.
> 
> I have a Nokia 8890 that came with a charger ACP-8U and here are the specs :
> 
> Input : 120 mA, 50-60 Hz
> Output: DC 5.3 V , 500 mA
> 
> I recently bought a Nokia 7250i that came with a charger ACP-7U and here are
> the specs:
> 
> Input : 50 mA, 60 Hz
> Output : DC 3.7 V , 350 mA ( 0.35A)
> 
> If you check the accessories for the 7250i at
> http://www.nokia.com/nokia/0,8764,27413,00.html and for the 8890 at
> http://www.nokia.com/nokia/0,8764,2780,00.html you will see that both phones
> can use both chargers.
> 
> My question is how can that be if each charger has different output ?
> 
> Isn't that going to dammage the battery ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your reply/opinion.
> 
> Luc


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weespid*
> 
> 5v just like the usb that was originally there it appears it should work as seen here although i bleave putting an 1a fuse in the line will help prevent from backwards connections/ accidental connections to the 12v rail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://cellphoneforums.net/alt-cellular-nokia/t95722-what-difference-between-these-nokia-chargers.html#axzz3rEiogoAr


Ah stuff it 3x AA 1.5v batteries in series for 4.5v should get it to turn on. Want some pics off it


----------



## Sorphius

Maybe not directly relevant to the topic at hand, but what do you do when you've got a build planned around a custom-painted case, live in upstate NY where the weather in November isn't conducive to painting outdoors, and your paint guy falls through at the last minute?





Yessir, that's a ghetto rigged paint booth in my garage made from 3/4" PVC pipe, 4 mil plastic sheeting, a box fan, and a whole lot of duct tape.


----------



## RnRollie

Reminds me of Dexter


----------



## Powerg4

Nice painting setup there!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Not bad at all? Good work. Can you list the full specs?


ok!
screen

i modified the bios of the card hoping higher voltages meant higher oc... raising the voltage any higher makes the gpu crash so only +50mhz OC.

this is my first time using a computer on a widescreen monitor... i do not like it. why the hell is this tv only 1080p if its 50" and made in 2007, my crt is 1536p made in 2000 and only 21"
the pixies are so huge it bugs me.
GPUZ validator
http://valid.x86.fr/33vtwn
i wish the motherboard could handle the 1333fsb cpus i had as they were 3.0ghz and i guess i have to sell them or find a compatible bored 4 cheep now :/
but it aint all loss, modern day games are optimized for milticore systems and the gpu is still by far the bottle neck







, so this computer will be better at playing Advanced Warfare over L4D2(dumb sorce eng and your only dual core support at best >:U)
*EDIT*
aslo rock pool is now my fave gpu oc tester, it maxes out every compatible gpu i test it on and if its gonna crash it happens fast here.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> What Lady Fitzgerald said.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a winning entry in the "Cantermod" (Cannibalized Computer Modification) class to me.


is that on here? if so then i think im in need of a link so i can repost.


----------



## Pawelr98

I was sick of this Ni-Cd battery and the memory effect. I could use this driller for 15 minutes tops.
The AC-DC converter had the PCB broken.

Now I can drill without worrying about battery.



I just soldered it on wires and it works fine.


Battery was 14.4V while this brick was rated for 13.5V. It still works as the voltage is actually bit higher.
Not as fast as on fully charged battery but still fast enough for drilling.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> is that on here? if so then i think im in need of a link so i can repost.


Sorry, that came right out of my fingertips and into that post.









But it would be a fan completion to have. .. maybe requirements for different groups based on age of cannibalized components .. like must all be at least 10 years old, 20 years old, etc.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I was sick of this Ni-Cd battery and the memory effect. I could use this driller for 15 minutes tops.
> The AC-DC converter had the PCB broken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can drill without worrying about battery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just soldered it on wires and it works fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Battery was 14.4V while this brick was rated for 13.5V. It still works as the voltage is actually bit higher.
> Not as fast as on fully charged battery but still fast enough for drilling.


You may loose some voltage over the wire from the transformer/diode/cap power supply to the drill. If you could get all those parts into the old battery holder it may run a bit faster.

Running a 12 volt drill of a car battery had quite a drop on the cable(after all you can not mount the car battery on the drill).

Either way, nice ghetto mod.


----------



## Jimbags

I found an old hp 8510p laptop in the trash. C2D t7200 2.0Ghz, ati hd2600.
It would boot but shutdown, due to overheating after a few minutes. Further investigation revealed the heatpipe to the gpu had leaked so wasnt doing anything. So I cut the gpu heatpipe off and used a seperate heatsink and fan just for the gpu.Which I fitted into the ODD tray.Also think I did a decent job of bending heatpipe to fit. It is pretty noisy but ive just loaded ubuntu 14.04 and retroarch. Cool little project. Btw if anyone has the original heatsink ill take it









Original


Modifications


----------



## Pawelr98

I repurposed this old Sony APS-231 PSU from my old broken PS3.
This thing has 23.5A on 12V, efficiency is ~80%, all the caps are nippon chemi-con.
And the average price of this unit varies around 10$.



With this VR you can actually push the OCP further allowing for load greater than 23.5A but I won't do that as I prefer not to blow it up.


----------



## Powerg4

Nice! Looks similar to the insides of a switch mode PC supply, and 23.5A is huge! Does it have a 5v rail too?
What do you plan to re use it for? Could make a nice compact pc supply with it for a small machine!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Nice! Looks similar to the insides of a switch mode PC supply, and 23.5A is huge! Does it have a 5v rail too?
> What do you plan to re use it for? Could make a nice compact pc supply with it for a small machine!


+5V rail has 0.6A
Just enough to power a fan to cool it down when running on high load.

I don't know what I will use it for yet.


----------



## Jimbags

Charging up the old Nokia. Needed some photos from it 5v rail :-D


----------



## -Leopold-

My new Mini-ITX AMD Gaming Rig:



Had to cut the chassis a little bit to be able to connect the 6-Pin Power-Connector.



i think i can finish it in the next days


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> 
> Charging up the old Nokia. Needed some photos from it 5v rail :-D


Nice work!
I remember those old Nokias! On the one I had you could change the front shells on them, they just clicked on and off! Indestructible too!


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Nice work!
> I remember those old Nokias! On the one I had you could change the front shells on them, they just clicked on and off! Indestructible too!


Yeah they were awesome!
Now to figure how to get these pics off. Wont send an mms, not sure why but dont think data 'band' is used here anymore. It has Infrared but cant find an IrDA for pc to send them :-/ any ideas?


----------



## -Leopold-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> Yeah they were awesome!
> Now to figure how to get these pics off. Wont send an mms, not sure why but dont think data 'band' is used here anymore. It has Infrared but cant find an IrDA for pc to send them :-/ any ideas?


maybe http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_12?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=infrared+dongle&sprefix=infrared+dongle%2Caps%2C275 ?


----------



## RockeyDA

UPDATE, i gave steave his computer and his power supply had a melt down, it fried and i had to replace it... turns out thoes old packard bell cases used the powersuply to vent out all the pc's heat and that did not work to well on more modern 2 cup system. so now it had a different power man 300w psu and the side panel open intill i cut a hole on top of the case down the rode.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> UPDATE, i gave steave his computer and his power supply had a melt down, it fried and i had to replace it... turns out thoes old packard bell cases used the powersuply to vent out all the pc's heat and that did not work to well on more modern 2 cup system. so now it had a different power man 300w psu and the side panel open intill i cut a hole on top of the case down the rode.


A 300w psu is not going to power a dual socket system with a 660. That psu is also going to melt.


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> A 300w psu is not going to power a dual socket system with a 660. That psu is also going to melt.


Agree with this, my dual CPU system is running off a 395W power supply (360W on 12V output) for its two 95W CPUs, and that's with only 2 fans, 2 RAM sticks and a hard drive (No graphics card). At least look into a quality 400W (or more) unit, it may be relatively expensive given the budget of the build, but the importance of a quality power supply cannot be stressed enough. Most generic units are rated unnecessarily highly on the 5V and 3.3V rails to compensate for a lower current capability on the 12V output (the one you want most for CPUs and GPUs), so that 300W is probably close to being run beyond specifications (if it isn't already). The nature of the post implies this is a temporary solution, and I hope this is the case.


----------



## Powerg4

Yes it will probably need something larger or you risk damaging your hardware if it fails suddenly. The Corsair RM550 is decent for the price and I haven't had any issues with mine, probably worth it if it's a dual CPU system as I imagine that will consume a fair bit of power, so your'e going to want something solid.

In my experience the cheap no name or OEM ones seem to die suddenly after only a few years, and that's on a very average system with only 1 processor, so it would probably not last long under the strain of powering two processors!








That said I have some ancient supplies that are 10-15 years old that still run without a problem, although they are usually only very small 300w units which haven't been put under alot of strain.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Got a dead HP DV7 from work with a busted LCD mount and a smashed up casing. I pulled a dead 12" Chromebook apart and glued some standoffs in to hold the motherboard and hard drive and ended up with this. Specs aren't too bad: 6GB RAM, i5 [email protected] and a dedicated AMD Mobile GPU, just need to pick up an SSD for it now. Thinking this will be my new TV gaming setup.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> A 300w psu is not going to power a dual socket system with a 660. That psu is also going to melt.


the only reson it had a melt down was becase it took the heat from the full pc, a different model of power man 300w psu i used to run a gtx 480 on a different gaming rig quite stably after i did some cooling mods to it, before i did it the psu would heat up and shut off in intense games and i had to under clock the gpu by 50mhz for extended usage. steave now has that rugged 300w psu and next time i come over im reversing the fan so the side panel can be on without melt down, im also cutting a hole in the top of the case. if that powersupply could push a 250w gpu i think it can take a 140w gpu and a motherboard with 2 power efficient 80 W cpus that dew to 8 cores will almost never pull there full power. i know this goes alittle over 300w but the other rig went alot over 300w. that psu was in the other rig for 2 years, im confident it will be fine as long as i keep it cool.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the only reson it had a melt down was becase it took the heat from the full pc, a different model of power man 300w psu i used to run a gtx 480 on a different gaming rig quite stably after i did some cooling mods to it, before i did it the psu would heat up and shut off in intense games and i had to under clock the gpu by 50mhz for extended usage. steave now has that rugged 300w psu and next time i come over im reversing the fan so the side panel can be on without melt down, im also cutting a hole in the top of the case. if that powersupply could push a 250w gpu i think it can take a 140w gpu and a motherboard with 2 power efficient 80 W cpus that dew to 8 cores will almost never pull there full power. i know this goes alittle over 300w but the other rig went alot over 300w. that psu was in the other rig for 2 years, im confident it will be fine as long as i keep it cool.


That's not how a power supply works. The only reason you didnt lose your hardware is because you got lucky. You are going to need a bigger power supply.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the only reson it had a melt down was becase it took the heat from the full pc, a different model of power man 300w psu i used to run a gtx 480 on a different gaming rig quite stably after i did some cooling mods to it, before i did it the psu would heat up and shut off in intense games and i had to under clock the gpu by 50mhz for extended usage. steave now has that rugged 300w psu and next time i come over im reversing the fan so the side panel can be on without melt down, im also cutting a hole in the top of the case. if that powersupply could push a 250w gpu i think it can take a 140w gpu and a motherboard with 2 power efficient 80 W cpus that dew to 8 cores will almost never pull there full power. i know this goes alittle over 300w but the other rig went alot over 300w. that psu was in the other rig for 2 years, im confident it will be fine as long as i keep it cool.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not how a power supply works. The only reason you didnt lose your hardware is because you got lucky. You are going to need a bigger power supply.
Click to expand...

Also running electronic components out of spec reduces their life span and can start to drive them out of spec. So those big filter caps in the PSU might not be filtering as good any more so your GPU's filter caps have to do more work (I know I'm generalizing this to just capacitors, but it's many components that get affected).

Short version, just because it's working now, doesn't mean it will keep working.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the only reson it had a melt down was becase it took the heat from the full pc, a different model of power man 300w psu i used to run a gtx 480 on a different gaming rig quite stably after i did some cooling mods to it, before i did it the psu would heat up and shut off in intense games and i had to under clock the gpu by 50mhz for extended usage. steave now has that rugged 300w psu and next time i come over im reversing the fan so the side panel can be on without melt down, im also cutting a hole in the top of the case. if that powersupply could push a 250w gpu i think it can take a 140w gpu and a motherboard with 2 power efficient 80 W cpus that dew to 8 cores will almost never pull there full power. i know this goes alittle over 300w but the other rig went alot over 300w. that psu was in the other rig for 2 years, im confident it will be fine as long as i keep it cool.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not how a power supply works. The only reason you didnt lose your hardware is because you got lucky. You are going to need a bigger power supply.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Also running electronic components out of spec reduces their life span and can start to drive them out of spec. So those big filter caps in the PSU might not be filtering as good any more so your GPU's filter caps have to do more work (I know I'm generalizing this to just capacitors, but it's many components that get affected).
> 
> Short version, just because it's working now, doesn't mean it will keep working.
Click to expand...

but im using much less power than what i stably ran for 2 years. and cooling the power supply off better made quite a noticeable difference. replaced aluminum heatsinks with copper plates and put a large 120v fan on the bottom of it. and that fan made the big difference.
you can tell witch one was the modded one.


----------



## Pawelr98

I was further modding my HP T5735 Terminal.
Testing of the drives.


Spoiler: 4200RPM PATA









Spoiler: 5400RPM Sata/Pata Adapter









Spoiler: 5400RPM Sata on main X99 rig









Spoiler: Pretec 233X 8GB CF card used till now







CF card had problems with 4K write which is why the entire system was freezing when saving any data.

After all I will use that 4200RPM HDD.


----------



## AngryFuture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> You may loose some voltage over the wire from the transformer/diode/cap power supply to the drill. If you could get all those parts into the old battery holder it may run a bit faster.
> 
> Running a 12 volt drill of a car battery had quite a drop on the cable(after all you can not mount the car battery on the drill).
> 
> Either way, nice ghetto mod.


Another thing is, while its only a 14.4v battery, a full charge its proably about 16v.
14.4 is what it will stay at after coming off the initail full charge.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> but im using much less power than what i stably ran for 2 years. and cooling the power supply off better made quite a noticeable difference. replaced aluminum heatsinks with copper plates and put a large 120v fan on the bottom of it. and that fan made the big difference.
> you can tell witch one was the modded one.


Looks like both fans are exhaust. You may want to just remove the 80mm as I do not think you need it any more.


----------



## snipekill2445

Running a 300w gutless wonder.... You're brave, I'll give you that.

Hit me up when that power supply pops and takes the rest of your hardware with it









My suggestion, spend 50 bucks and get something decent


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> but im using much less power than what i stably ran for 2 years. and cooling the power supply off better made quite a noticeable difference. replaced aluminum heatsinks with copper plates and put a large 120v fan on the bottom of it. and that fan made the big difference.
> you can tell witch one was the modded one.


It obviously seems to work fine, however it shouldn't need extra cooling to run without issues. If it does then it's a sign it is being pushed too hard and the transitors and regulators are on the verge of overheating. You might be able to get lucky and never have an issue with it, but you are risking your hardware in the event that it fails suddenly, and given how cheap a decent supply is why not get something a little larger and not have to worry?

Nice mods though, very creative and I have never even thought of modding my PSU!


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> but im using much less power than what i stably ran for 2 years. and cooling the power supply off better made quite a noticeable difference. replaced aluminum heatsinks with copper plates and put a large 120v fan on the bottom of it. and that fan made the big difference.
> you can tell witch one was the modded one.


Do what you want, but you are going to kill your hardware quicker than if you used a better power supply or even start a fire.


----------



## krzesuo

Few years ago...







. Notice that Lego construction supporting the slightly too big fan.

And another version with a Prescott P4 air duct instead of front intake fan:

To be honest, I still can't figure out why I decided to put the carpet on the "floor" of my case


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krzesuo*
> 
> Few years ago...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Notice that Lego construction supporting the slightly too big fan.
> 
> And another version with a Prescott P4 air duct instead of front intake fan:
> 
> To be honest, I still can't figure out why I decided to put the carpet on the "floor" of my case


static it's fun.....


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krzesuo*
> 
> ...To be honest, I still can't figure out why I decided to put the carpet on the "floor" of my case


Sound damping?


----------



## Mega Man

Nah. It was so his hands didn't touch the cold steel in the morning


----------



## krzesuo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Sound damping?


Yup, the cheapest possible way.


----------



## Alex132

It has a certain charm about it


----------



## rodaduck

about as far as ill goo on psu mods ..well and making a loom


----------



## anywhere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I was sick of this Ni-Cd battery and the memory effect. I could use this driller for 15 minutes tops.
> The AC-DC converter had the PCB broken.
> 
> Now I can drill without worrying about battery.
> 
> 
> 
> I just soldered it on wires and it works fine.
> 
> 
> Battery was 14.4V while this brick was rated for 13.5V. It still works as the voltage is actually bit higher.
> Not as fast as on fully charged battery but still fast enough for drilling.


Mucha.

I did the same with a black and decker 12v. Except I ran leads to a car battery. Goes soooooo long before charging.

Sent from my One using Tapatalk


----------



## 0493mike

I like the tape telling us its electric tape.


----------



## chrisjames61

Motherboard tray from some generic aluminum case. Now I need to mount it on something. Like a 17"x21" peice of Luan plywood so I can mount a psu and a optical drive.


----------



## 0493mike

Good idea for a test bench. Nice.


----------



## Mega Man

wait, what kind of a "generic" case is AL to begin with, let alone that thick ?!?!?!?!? that is sexay


----------



## mr squishy

Is that one of those old motherboards with a physical add in card to determine what the pcie bandwidth for each slot was when using crossfire?


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Is that one of those old motherboards with a physical add in card to determine what the pcie bandwidth for each slot was when using crossfire?


Better than when they used jumpers


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wait, what kind of a "generic" case is AL to begin with, let alone that thick ?!?!?!?!? that is sexay


It was a no name case. It is built, or was built better than my old Lian Li cases. The aluminum is thick. I should get out a micrometer or calipers and measure it.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Is that one of those old motherboards with a physical add in card to determine what the pcie bandwidth for each slot was when using crossfire?


asus a8n-sli deluxe


----------



## JourneymanMike

Just testing some GPU's, without water blocks...



Check out the old, beat up, extension fittings!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Just testing some GPU's, without water blocks...
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the old, beat up, extension fittings!


I kinds like that and you can dust the inside when you have the fans at 100 percent do it doesn't throttle lol


----------



## Mega Man

gpus without waterblocks !!!! HERESY!


----------



## rodaduck

test bench


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> gpus without waterblocks !!!! HERESY!


This should look more normal...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> This should look more normal...


no more bypass


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> This should look more normal...


How are they even getting water flowing through them?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> How are they even getting water flowing through them?












It's osmosis, kind of like dialysis!









Edit: You were joking? Right?


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's osmosis, kind of like dialysis!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: You were joking? Right?


He probably doesn't see the vrm block


----------



## billbartuska

How about an AMD 939 socket stock cooler on an Intel 775 socket (Q9400 CPU) in a Dell Desktop.
Keeps the Q9400 cool enough to overclock from 2.66 GHz to 3.2 GHz.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> He probably doesn't see the vrm block


Yeah, you're probably right...

I'll have to take a more, better, picture...


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> This should look more normal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are they even getting water flowing through them?
Click to expand...

Perhaps this will explain the water flow better...




It goes out of the GPU's into the VRM cooler, into the CPU block, and back into the rad system, then Res / Pump, and around and around...

Is that what you meant? Or do you mean how do the GPU water blocks work?


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> This should look more normal...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are they even getting water flowing through them?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Perhaps this will explain the water flow better...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It goes out of the GPU's into the VRM cooler, into the CPU block, and back into the rad system, then Res / Pump, and around and around...
> 
> Is that what you meant? Or do you mean how do the GPU water blocks work?
Click to expand...

I think I know what he exactly means.
It looks like the water could bypass the gpu's.
In most setups it goes like this.

Code:



Code:


I I
XXXXXXXXXX
      I I
XXXXXXXXXX
I I

In your it goes like this:

Code:



Code:


I I
111XXXXXXX
I I   I I
111XXXXXXX
I I

In the place of 1 the water can simply not enter the gpu block and go through that additional connector on the left.
Because water is kinda like electricity, why go through restrictive waterblock when you can go through unrestricitve connector.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I think I know what he exactly means.
> It looks like the water could bypass the gpu's.
> In most setups it goes like this.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I I
> XXXXXXXXXX
> I I
> XXXXXXXXXX
> I I
> 
> In your it goes like this:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I   I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I
> 
> In the place of 1 the water can simply not enter the gpu block and go through that additional connector on the left.
> Because water is kinda like electricity, why go through restrictive waterblock when you can go through unrestricitve connector.


Got it! Sometimes I forget what I do...

I took one of these...



Then put it in here...



Which forces the flow through the first block, then it goes to the second block and out what appears to be the same side... Looks like a screwed up parallel setup... But it's not because it's really a series setup, I did this to make it look better...


----------



## xxpenguinxx

That makes sense now. I thought you were trying to run them in parallel.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> That makes sense now. I thought you were trying to run them in parallel.


Wasn't sure what you meant at first, until @Pawelr98 gave his interpretation of you original post...

Glad we got that straight... I thought it would look more appealing with the looks of a parallel setup...


----------



## xenomorph113

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I think I know what he exactly means.
> It looks like the water could bypass the gpu's.
> In most setups it goes like this.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I I
> XXXXXXXXXX
> I I
> XXXXXXXXXX
> I I
> 
> In your it goes like this:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I   I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I
> 
> In the place of 1 the water can simply not enter the gpu block and go through that additional connector on the left.
> Because water is kinda like electricity, why go through restrictive waterblock when you can go through unrestricitve connector.


to do a parallel GPU loop wouldnt you use the following:

Code:



Code:


      I I
111XXXXXXX
I I   I I
111XXXXXXX
I I

because the way that is setup currently doesn't seem flow efficient, as the inlets are also the outlets

here's a shot of my 970's in a parallel config



Edit: Sorry i guess this is irrelevant now, didnt refresh the page since before i left for work


----------



## vicyo

I had to test if the new motherboard was working or not, but the psu i bought will take a while to arrive. Guess I have to make do with the 30 BRL (+- 8 USD) Seasonic











And to think that people still waste money on generic PSU


----------



## Nukemaster

Does removal of heat spreaders from memory count?
I just took a blade and slowly cut the thermal pad from the speader to avoid having any issues with the memory it self.


It fits










Anyone still have cordless phones. What to do when the battery is dead and you do not have time to wait for it to charge.
Cheap regulator from amazon and some wire(and some other stuff I had kicking around) and I had a corded cordless phone.
I used USB so I could use computers or chargers.

If the phone looks new, it is. It came with a set of 3 and only 2 are used. its battery is already in another phone.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Does removal of heat spreaders from memory count?
> I just took a blade and slowly cut the thermal pad from the speader to avoid having any issues with the memory it self.
> 
> 
> It fits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what was your point or plan with removing the heatspreaders from the RAM?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Does removal of heat spreaders from memory count?
> I just took a blade and slowly cut the thermal pad from the speader to avoid having any issues with the memory it self.
> 
> 
> It fits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what was your point or plan with removing the heatspreaders from the RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the last photo. Note that the RAM stick on the left in the photo would not have cleared the CPU cooler with the heat spreader still on the stick.
Click to expand...


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Does removal of heat spreaders from memory count?
> I just took a blade and slowly cut the thermal pad from the speader to avoid having any issues with the memory it self.
> 
> 
> It fits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what was your point or plan with removing the heatspreaders from the RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> the ram wouldnt have fit?
> 
> i should upload some pics of my case. I got my water cool stuff ziptied to my case *****
Click to expand...


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanzylol*
> 
> the ram wouldnt have fit?
> 
> i should upload some pics of my case. I got my water cool stuff ziptied to my case *****


You should post those indeed


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanzylol*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Does removal of heat spreaders from memory count?
> I just took a blade and slowly cut the thermal pad from the speader to avoid having any issues with the memory it self.
> 
> 
> It fits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what was your point or plan with removing the heatspreaders from the RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> the ram wouldnt have fit?...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Seriously? You can't see that? Look at the picture below. The edge of the cooler runs along the white line to the left. The top arrow points to the top of the RAM stick that still has the heat spreader on it. The bottom arrow points to the top of the RAM stick that has had the heat spreader removed.
Click to expand...


----------



## Nukemaster

Maybe this makes it more clear. low profile can just be installed(it slides on the cooler before it can settle into the slot). A bit taller with the cooler removed and reinstalled after.



My first thought was to cut the heat spreader but the thought conductive shavings getting under the chips made me go this route.

When I first removed the stick I tested it in the system it came from, it does not even get that warm anyway so the heat spreader is for show anyway.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenomorph113*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I think I know what he exactly means.
> It looks like the water could bypass the gpu's.
> In most setups it goes like this.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I I
> XXXXXXXXXX
> I I
> XXXXXXXXXX
> I I
> 
> In your it goes like this:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I   I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I
> 
> In the place of 1 the water can simply not enter the gpu block and go through that additional connector on the left.
> Because water is kinda like electricity, why go through restrictive waterblock when you can go through unrestricitve connector.
> 
> 
> 
> to do a parallel GPU loop wouldnt you use the following:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I   I I
> 111XXXXXXX
> I I
> 
> because the way that is setup currently doesn't seem flow efficient, as the inlets are also the outlets
> 
> here's a shot of my 970's in a parallel config
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Sorry i guess this is irrelevant now, didnt refresh the page since before i left for work
Click to expand...

My cards are setup in series, not parallel, I have the extra Bitspower Aqualink to make it look better...


----------



## cptnighthawk666

He doesn't like his ram with spreaders...lol


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> what was your point or plan with removing the heatspreaders from the RAM?


I'm going to go out on a limb and assume that he intended to fit both under his cooler. If you look closely at the second picture, you can see both memory modules are installed with the cooler in place, the one with the removed heatspreader has less clearance due to the cooler design, and removing it allowed it to fit nicely. It's also ideal since the CPU fan is blowing air directly over it.

Edit: Wow, beaten to that one, the replies hadn't even started loading when I started typing. My mistake


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> I'm going to go out on a limb and assume that he intended to fit both under his cooler. If you look closely at the second picture, you can see both memory modules are installed with the cooler in place, the one with the removed heatspreader has less clearance due to the cooler design, and removing it allowed it to fit nicely. It's also ideal since the CPU fan is blowing air directly over it.


Yea when I first commented, I was on my phone. My screen is 5 1/2" but I couldn't see the tiny ram sticks lol


----------



## Unknownm

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


----------



## GhettoModder

A seriously ghetto mod.

Comments welcomed.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1580030/build-behemoth-bigger-is-better-a-thx-production/20
Dave.


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhettoModder*
> 
> A seriously ghetto mod.
> 
> Comments welcomed.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1580030/build-behemoth-bigger-is-better-a-thx-production/20
> Dave.


Here's my comment: What the heck is that? I've got no clue. :|


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomytom99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GhettoModder*
> 
> A seriously ghetto mod.
> 
> Comments welcomed.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1580030/build-behemoth-bigger-is-better-a-thx-production/20
> Dave.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my comment: What the heck is that? I've got no clue. :|
Click to expand...

Zen garden. it's for decoration in this case (pun not intended).


----------



## tomytom99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Zen garden. it's for decoration in this case (pun not intended).


I see that now. I thought those stones were nozzles or something for a HDD waterblock.


----------



## Jordanh517

I can almost feel the feng shui from here


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Zen garden. it's for decoration in this case (pun not intended).


First windowed cases, then LEDs, now zen gardens? Where will this case modding craze stop??

That's it, I'm doing dance-floor LED squares and a disco ball.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Zen garden. it's for decoration in this case (pun not intended).
> 
> 
> 
> First windowed cases, then LEDs, now zen gardens? Where will this case modding craze stop??
> 
> That's it, I'm doing dance-floor LED squares and a disco ball.
Click to expand...

You forgot Pink Panthers (check out cpachris's builds). A miniature disco ball sounds interesting.


----------



## Pawelr98

It works. T5735 works just fine on this Sony APS-231 PSU ( from my broken PS3 CECHG04).
The second thing which will run from this PSU is IIyama E2475HDS with new controller (chinese V59 controller).
New controller relies on 12V line unlike original controller(5V) so a new power source is needed.

Don't mind the clock. I use it for temperature readout only.The date&time there is incorrect.


----------



## lexer

The notebook of my mom just died ... so i builded a "new" computer for him







.

Opteron 185 @ 2.9Ghz - Cooled with a H60
4GB - DDR1 433MHZ
MSI K8N Platinum. .... I don't undertand why old high end boards have dual lan








EVGA GTX 460 ... I get it for a steal, like 50 u$d
CORSAIR CX 600
HDD 160GB .... probably i will remplace it with a SSD
And a old full tower case that was my first experience with modding .... like 7yr ago

Overall runs W7 really well ... she can play some games and watch 1080p movies with no problem so far.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> The notebook of my mom just died ... so i builded a "new" computer for him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Opteron 185 @ 2.9Ghz - Cooled with a H60
> 4GB - DDR1 433MHZ
> MSI K8N Platinum. .... I don't undertand why old high end boards have dual lan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVGA GTX 460 ... I get it for a steal, like 50 u$d
> CORSAIR CX 600
> HDD 160GB .... probably i will remplace it with a SSD
> And a old full tower case that was my first experience with modding .... like 7yr ago


That's an awesome case. And I got a 460 for $30


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> That's an awesome case. And I got a 460 for $30


Thx
I also get from the same guy a pair of 512mb TCCD memorys, that can clock to DDR620+/-


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Thx
> I also get from the same guy a pair of 512mb TCCD memorys, that can clock to DDR620+/-


what case is that?


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanzylol*
> 
> what case is that?


No idea i get it really cheap on a Garage sale for practicing modding on it.


----------



## Pawelr98

V59 controller goes into action second time.Powered from Sony APS-231 PS3 PSU.





Bios used for M236H1-L01 fits perfectly as all aspects except backlight are the same.

This screen is Chimei InnoLux M236H3-LA3 from IIyama E2475HDS. This model suffers from faulty NOVATEK NT68677UMFG chip.
This chip alone costs 90PLN + I would need hotair for replacement.Also there are reports of these chips breaking down again after 2-3 months.
V59 controller costed me 46PLN (free shippping) and I could put this together using normal soldering iron.


----------



## DR4G00N

I didn't feel like removing all the mounting hardware for my DICE pot from my X58A-OC but I wanted to use an air cooler for some testing, que the elastic bands.
Gives good mounting pressure so it works fairly well.


----------



## Pawelr98

So I decided to use original case of the display.
New controller has different shape than original parts so I just mounted it outside.
Drilled 6 holes total. 4 for controller, 2 for keypad.
Then some string and it stays there.

With T5735 doing something and display running the power draw is for sure bigger.
PS3 PSU gets much warmer. I can still hold my finger on radiator but if there was little higher temperature then I wouldn't be able to.


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I didn't feel like removing all the mounting hardware for my DICE pot from my X58A-OC but I wanted to use an air cooler for some testing, que the elastic bands.
> Gives good mounting pressure so it works fairly well.


lol what the hell man. Cant say i have gone that far and i have done some pretty ghetto stuff to my pc..


----------



## JourneymanMike

Here's a beauty!


----------



## OdinValk

Needed somewhere to hang my headphones while not using them. Laying them on the desk is for suckers, but I'm not sure it lives up to ghetto standards, what do y'all think?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Temporary mic preamp until I can get it in a proper box:


----------



## OdinValk

Apparently EVGA is totally cool with people making cosmetic changes to their cards.. So.. I did this to my 970 SSC today


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Apparently EVGA is totally cool with people making cosmetic changes to their cards.. So.. I did this to my 970 SSC today


I'm sorry, but that does not qualify as ghetto. It's far too professional looking.


----------



## OdinValk

Lol well thanks buddy! It's surprising what you can do with a little spray paint and some tinkering to take it apart... these pictures do it pretty good justice, up close there are some imperfections here and there


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Lol well thanks buddy! It's surprising what you can do with a little spray paint and some tinkering to take it apart... these pictures do it pretty good justice, up close there are some imperfections here and there


Buddy?


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Buddy?


Buddy, Bud, Friend, Cuzzy bro, mate

lol


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Buddy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buddy, Bud, Friend, Cuzzy bro, mate
> 
> lol
Click to expand...

Uh, look at my user name.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Buddy?


I apologize, I'm from the southern US.. we call everyone bud, pal, friend, buddy, bro.. even if their name suggests them being a woman.. though I didn't actually take the time to look at your name, I apologize m'lady


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Buddy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize, I'm from the southern US.. we call everyone bud, pal, friend, buddy, bro.. even if their name suggests them being a woman.. though I didn't actually take the time to look at your name, I apologize m'lady
Click to expand...

It's all good. It happens a lot here so I like to have a bit of fun with it.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Uh, look at my user name.


Look at mine

It's pretty mad if I'm honest


----------



## rodaduck

that's ugly , you doing a incredible hulk or Kermit the frog theme? hahahah


----------



## snipekill2445

I like green/black themed builds, as well as orange/black, don't see enough of them


----------



## Macgyverman1123

I once had my SSD held to the top of my HDD with scotch tape.


----------



## snipekill2445

I had my SSD double sided taped to the top of my HDD too, it would likely still be there if the H440 didn't have slots on the PSU cover to showcase it


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> That's why I bought an MSI 970 100ME


yea that is a slick looking card.. but NONE of the stores here around me have EVER had any


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> I had my SSD double sided taped to the top of my HDD too, it would likely still be there if the H440 didn't have slots on the PSU cover to showcase it


...............yea well i had two ssds taped together ...then taped inside my case...lol


----------



## cptnighthawk666

i am the color police btw....and yellow will get you arrested ...with some police brutality included


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cptnighthawk666*
> 
> ...............yea well i had two ssds taped together ...then taped inside my case...lol


Did you have a fan hot glued to your VRM heatsink, a fan cable tied facing the rear of the socket and string holding your GPU up though?

lol


----------



## Joe88

needed to get a bit more performance out of a cmv8 to cool an 1ghz oc 5820k, saw this fan mod http://www.overclockers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=93600&stc=1&d=1301320494
sure I could go to the hardware store and find the exact size bolts, nuts and washers, take the whole heatsink apart and reatch all that stuff...
or I just go with the free and quick route and use zip ties



and next my HTPC has a radeon 5450 "passively" cooled, temps get as high as 83C just running Kodi, so I looked around and found a little fan pulled from an cpu heatsink placed it right next to the card to blow some air through the heatsink, I needed a way to hook it up as the only two fan headers were in use. The psu has no molex cables, only sata, so got a sata to molex and a 2 pin fan connector to molex to power it. Temps dropped to a max of 47C after an hour of Kodi usage.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> needed to get a bit more performance out of a cmv8 to cool an 1ghz oc 5820k, saw this fan mod http://www.overclockers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=93600&stc=1&d=1301320494
> sure I could go to the hardware store and find the exact size bolts, nuts and washers, take the whole heatsink apart and reatch all that stuff...
> or I just go with the free and quick route and use zip ties
> 
> and next my HTPC has a radeon 5450 "passively" cooled, temps get as high as 83C just running Kodi, so I looked around and found a little fan pulled from an cpu heatsink placed it right next to the card to blow some air through the heatsink, I needed a way to hook it up as the only two fan headers were in use. The psu has no molex cables, only sata, so got a sata to molex and a 2 pin fan connector to molex to power it. Temps dropped to a max of 47C after an hour of Kodi usage.


Yes, zip ties FTW. They've helped me often with PC's I've built.


----------



## rodaduck

it was a joke , my mom paints every damn thing green , so i've seen a lot of it , the red and black is old but it really never loses its cool , here are some things to help you when you green build and never forget money is green !!!


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Motherboard tray from some generic aluminum case. Now I need to mount it on something. Like a 17"x21" peice of Luan plywood so I can mount a psu and a optical drive.


We made one too out of an ancient Dell! I wish I had kept the pcie/io but this metal was making me bleed just touching it.. Just cut out the tray and sanded out the jaggies.. use that for ghetto shenanigans.



It's actually my nephews daily driver right now until we can finish his rig (a fellow OCN member actually just donated him an FX 4100 board and ram







). When he's done with it i'll build a two tier using it for drives and such and use it as a torture test rack, might as well!

and yes that fan behind the gpu is being powered via a random usb cable we cut and spliced together because the headers on the mobo are toast









I guess this counts as my ghetto entry for the month


----------



## Joe88

wow havnt seen one of those all in wonder cards in a long time
kind of wish they continued making them


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> wow havnt seen one of those all in wonder cards in a long time
> kind of wish they continued making them


What's really amazing is that card has been trucking for over 10 years, its never been powered off short of a few moves.. still works fine.


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> What's really amazing is that card has been trucking for over 10 years, its never been powered off short of a few moves.. still works fine.


That pc reminds me of my dads pc when i was 15. Oh the nostalgia


----------



## Pawelr98

I rewired old DIN keyboard from 1997 to work on PS/2 connector (same pinout as DIN but smaller connector).

That machine in backround is something I'm working on recently.Workshop PC
Ati X600 still has Pixel/Vertex Shader(instead of Unified Shader like today) so I can run some really outdated software there.


----------



## rodaduck

it was all funny


----------



## rodaduck

ps 2 power supply , stuffed into the ps2 cd case just need a lid and its good to go , i already am using it alot more then my big unit soly for the fact that its light weight , i believe it has 2 12 volt rails , but unsure of the amps ..its for light work anyway ..


----------



## rodaduck

this is kind of getto , but anyone else own the photon res or res/pump combo? well im finally getting close to finishing my build and wanted to test the center light in the res and was disappointed with the result , i did not feel that 1 led did the job so i took it apart , pic 1 is befor and after the modyou can see the difference on my end it was huge pic 2 is the unit apartprety easy to get apart but i did have to make a tool for the center piece also very easy and some may have that type of tool around pic 3 is wht it looks like when you insert a single led into the res it kind of sits sideways so there is no focused light , im sure it could be moved around to be a little better pic 4 is 3 leds were the 1 used to be , i had to drill the center hole and make it bigger and i also filed the ridges off the led so they would go in a little smoother , it was tight for the wires because of the resistors so led with built in resistors would be better , and the other thing that kind of sucks is to replace the leds you have to take the res apart again for me it was worth the trade off .the last pic is the finished results ..it speaks for its selfsorry pic 3 is first


----------



## Jagsrs28

Oh that looks really nice


----------



## cdoublejj

Runs really cool now.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Runs really cool now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's so beautiful, tears have come to my eyes...

Oh, wait a second, that's from laughing!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> It's so beautiful, tears have come to my eyes...
> 
> Oh, wait a second, that's from laughing!


the thing used to feel like a heater on low, literally! now its just room temp air blowing around. but, i guess it is kind of funny with all those fans.


----------



## Powerg4

It is beautiful though!








Nice work, where did you find that fan? It looks like the ones they put in laptops with the plastic shroud but bigger.


----------



## cainy1991

Air flow on the ole pioneer was very sub par... as was the frame strength after removing the hdd cage and 5.25 bays hence the piece of particle board.....and the not pictured tension wire under the top cover lol.


----------



## Jimbags

They the xspc fans?


----------



## cainy1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> They the xspc fans?


Bottom one is, other two are cougars.

The xspcs are muuuuch better even when running at half speed they push more air than the cougars do at full.


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cainy1991*
> 
> Bottom one is, other two are cougars.
> 
> The xspcs are muuuuch better even when running at half speed they push more air than the cougars do at full.


Yeah I have 2 in push config on my xspc 240ex rad. The 2000rpm variants. I only run them at 50% though approx 1400rpm anything hogher theyre loud as hell! But they move alot of air even at 50% I game with headphones though







and when Im benching noise isnt a consideration


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> It is beautiful though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work, where did you find that fan? It looks like the ones they put in laptops with the plastic shroud but bigger.


it says gateway on the back of the fan. my buddy took something apart sometimes ago, we have both in been throwing parts and left overs at it, it's a machine at the office we intend to use for cloning.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> It is beautiful though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work, where did you find that fan? It looks like the ones they put in laptops with the plastic shroud but bigger.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> it says gateway on the back of the fan. my buddy took something apart sometimes ago, we have both in been throwing parts and left overs at it, it's a machine at the office we intend to use for cloning.


It's a centrifugal fan rather than the more common radial fans we normally use.
The centrifugal force of spinning "throws" the air away from center and when combined with the fins on inside of "squirrel cage" make them very efficient fans. Bigger ones are common in forced air central heating systems.
Sometimes called "squirrel cage".
They pull air into their center and push it out theirs sides rather than front to back like radial fans do.
Their round shroud is off-center with biggest offset on exhaust side


Centrifugal fans have lower cfm rates, but much higher mmH2O rates .. meaning the move more air in high resistance environments. Just another example of how "statiic pressure / mm H2O" and "cfm" ratings can be very misleading.

Reference GPUs use them.









Also things like car heaters, window AC units, a few CPU coolers


Most fluid pumps (water pumps) are centrifugal


Airflow and fluid dynamics are the same science.


----------



## Nukemaster

I have one of those blowers from an old Dell.

It is thermally regulated and has LOTS of power when you short the sensor to force full speed. It is still a bit loud for by tastes.


----------



## Carniflex

I once made a display.






MDF plate, some wood screws, VESA mount, 3x Ipad 3 retina replacement screens and some controllers to get the DP cable from PC to hooked up with the right pins in the ribbon cable.

More details at: https://hackaday.io/project/4276/gallery#fb5b3edf2b43c0b9a5e1eb679d012bc7


----------



## Stige

Like dis?


----------



## Carniflex

Thats not particularly ghetto looking, so dunno if it's ghetto enough for this thread. That is a Nova 1080 radiator bolted to the sidepanel of my PC few iterations ago. Just drilled some 3mm holes into sidepanel and bolted the rad to it as clearly there was not enough space for it inside.


And that is how a case without a handle gets one. About 3 EUR plastic door handle from a nearby hardware shop.


Just bolted to the top panel after drilling 4 holes in it.


----------



## Carniflex

A pump bracket from 1.5mm thick aluminum profile.




Turned out actually pretty nice looking and not as ghetto as I expected it to be.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> 
> 
> Like dis?


Ha thats a good one. I might have to steal that idea







Was just thinking about where (and how) to put the fan to get some airflow over that large aluminium heatsink coming with the alphacool GPX hybrid blocks. Thats gotta be a damn effective because how close the fan is to the radiator.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> Ha thats a good one. I might have to steal that idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was just thinking about where (and how) to put the fan to get some airflow over that large aluminium heatsink coming with the alphacool GPX hybrid blocks. Thats gotta be a damn effective because how close the fan is to the radiator.


Yeah, I glued small rubber pads in each corner to give it few mm of space between there to have some more space for the air to get out.

It dropped the VRM temps by about 4-5C. Better thermal pads next week..


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Yeah, I glued small rubber pads in each corner to give it few mm of space between there to have some more space for the air to get out.
> 
> It dropped the VRM temps by about 4-5C. Better thermal pads next week..


Hm .. only 4-5 C .. I would have expected a lot more TBH. Normally the difference between no airflow and some airflow is pretty dramatic. I was considering drilling couple of small holes into few fins and just using zip ties to add a 80 mm quiet fan in there. Plus use few zip ties to hang the back end of heatsink from HDD cages because it's a 1 kg heatsink and mine is a mobile system so might damage the PCIe slot if just hanging from there with all its mass during road bumps.


----------



## umeng2002

Inside, out H80i







Allows me to get that one fan more over the VRM cooler.




I don't remember why I Dremeled the side, maybe since the H80i may not have fit well, I forget.

Yes, I also Dremeled out the grate so there is nothing impeding the H80i fans. The radiator is flush against the metal case. Outside fan is flush against the case.


----------



## Stige

If it only was a real watercooler and not those wnb-aio-crap


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> If it only was a real watercooler and not those wnb-aio-crap


To be fair, for CPU the difference between AIO, high end air-cooler and small custom loop are predominantly cosmetic (and price for custom loop to some degree). The difference for GPU's is far more significant and that is where custom loop starts to really have a point.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Another laptop upgrade involves SSD. This time, the disk's case is too thick. Took it apart, a bit of dremel work, and there we go:


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> To be fair, for CPU the difference between AIO, high end air-cooler and small custom loop are predominantly cosmetic (and price for custom loop to some degree). The difference for GPU's is far more significant and that is where custom loop starts to really have a point.


Well tbh, best air coolers can match those cheap AIO coolers easily. Custom loops are on totally different level after that.


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Well tbh, best air coolers can match those cheap AIO coolers easily. Custom loops are on totally different level after that.


pretty much. My dads noctua actually does better than my h100i until i strap my deltas to it... Even when i slap a 3x120 rad on the h100 block with a new pump.. temps only went down 10 degrees..


----------



## Pawelr98




----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*


Forced air oil filled cooler









How well does it work?


----------



## umeng2002

tbh, I will probably go back to high-end air next time.

But the H80i has so much thermal headroom even with my CPU overclocked. i max out at 50 C doing AVX linpack on Maximum.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

It's getting that time of the year when I shove one of those under my desk.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> It's getting that time of the year when I shove one of those under my desk.


Overclock more


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> It's getting that time of the year when I shove one of those under my desk.


It's a casual 40'c here, and has been for the past week.

I hate summer. It's alright during the day... but trying to sleep when it's 35'c and 90+% humidity.... yeah....


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Overclock more


I was thinking of just installing my old GTX 580s and fold on them. Should put out about 500-600W of heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> It's a casual 40'c here, and has been for the past week.
> 
> I hate summer. It's alright during the day... but trying to sleep when it's 35'c and 90+% humidity.... yeah....


Heat doesn't bother me all that much so that sounds quite nice.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forced air oil filled cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How well does it work?
Click to expand...

It's bit warmer in whole room. But I cannot use it for too long as it draws a lot of power.

My room has poor insulation and there's a flaw in the heating system.Heater kicks in when flow is about 0.115-0.120m^3/hour or higher(and give minimal heat) where other heaters start heating properly at about 0.070m^3/hour.At 0.120m^3/hour other heaters are very hot while mine is just bit warm.
With about -10°C outside I get 15-16°C in room. If I would drop turn off the normal heating then after longer time the temperature could drop to about 12-13°C (one winter when coming back from holidays I measured the temp after 2 weeks without heating).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> To be fair, for CPU the difference between AIO, high end air-cooler and small custom loop are predominantly cosmetic (and price for custom loop to some degree). The difference for GPU's is far more significant and that is where custom loop starts to really have a point.


I disagree.

The difference between AIO (mostly CLC) and top air is significant, especially when comparing temps with noise levels.

There ar few similarities between small custom loops and AIO (mostly CLC). But there are all kinds of differences.
CLC pumps use less power than many fans Custom loop pumps sue much more power than fans.
Entire CLC system less fans but including coolant weigh similar to bare (and dry) similar sized low cost custom loop radiator .. with no fittings or hardware on them.


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I disagree.
> 
> The difference between AIO (mostly CLC) and top air is significant, especially when comparing temps with noise levels.
> 
> There ar few similarities between small custom loops and AIO (mostly CLC). But there are all kinds of differences.
> CLC pumps use less power than many fans Custom loop pumps sue much more power than fans.
> Entire CLC system less fans but including coolant weigh similar to bare (and dry) similar sized low cost custom loop radiator .. with no fittings or hardware on them.


who cares about weight and power draw on water pumps. The power draw is so low that it doesnt matter. And besides the fact that temps are better with high end air vs a aio unit until you strap some high speed fans on them.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanzylol*
> 
> who cares about weight and power draw on water pumps. The power draw is so low that it doesnt matter. And besides the fact that temps are better with high end air vs a aio unit until you strap some high speed fans on them.


The point went right over your head.

CLC are built so cheaply and lightly they don't have the abiltiy to do a good job. Cheap aluminium and plastic radiators versus heavier copper and brass raidators. is the point.

Volume of water flow is the point. For a pump to move much water requires power. Power requires electrical power draw. Simple logic is that if it takes 2-3 watts of power to run a fan capable of move a reasonable amount of air. It will that more watts to move water. The reason custom loop pumps use more power is to move more water .. Water moving through the block on CPU is extremely important. CLC pumps move just barely enough water to do the job and because they are such low volume they are also low power.

"Strap some high speed fans"?? Really. CLC pumps move less water than I can pee. They have "high speed fans" on them out of the box in an attempt to overcome the poor cooling ability of their cheap radiators with very high density fins.

The "fact" is strap the same kind of high flow fans on a top air cooler and supply it with air the same temp as air going into radiator and it will cool better than CLC.



Problem is CLC cultists are extreme fanatics. Truth and fact mean nothing to fanatics. Presenting them with scientific truth and educated facts is "the work of the devil".


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I was thinking of just installing my old GTX 580s and fold on them. Should put out about 500-600W of heat.


This won't help much unless you have very good insulated walls.

My heater is 1500W and even with forced air movement it won't help that much.
It took about 1.5-2 hours to heat areas close to heater by 3-4°C while the rest of room by 1-2°C.And this is with main heater also working (but barely).

The electric heater itself is really old. Made in Poland (or rather Polish Republic Of People at the time) in 1987.So it's about 29 years old.
The design is really simple. Normal heater filled with transformer oil.
At the bottom you have a heat source which heats the oil and then oil transfers the heat across the whole heater.

Communism era devices are usually very solid(even more solid if exported, devices sold inside countries were usually worse quality than the ones exported to west). IIRC my uncle still has a working 30+ year old fridge made in DDR (eastern germany).


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The point went right over your head.
> 
> CLC are built so cheaply and lightly they don't have the abiltiy to do a good job. Cheap aluminium and plastic radiators versus heavier copper and brass raidators. is the point.
> 
> Volume of water flow is the point. For a pump to move much water requires power. Power requires electrical power draw. Simple logic is that if it takes 2-3 watts of power to run a fan capable of move a reasonable amount of air. It will that more watts to move water. The reason custom loop pumps use more power is to move more water .. Water moving through the block on CPU is extremely important. CLC pumps move just barely enough water to do the job and because they are such low volume they are also low power.
> 
> "Strap some high speed fans"?? Really. CLC pumps move less water than I can pee. They have "high speed fans" on them out of the box in an attempt to overcome the poor cooling ability of their cheap radiators with very high density fins.
> 
> The "fact" is strap the same kind of high flow fans on a top air cooler and supply it with air the same temp as air going into radiator and it will cool better than CLC.
> 
> Problem is CLC cultists are extreme fanatics. Truth and fact mean nothing to fanatics. Presenting them with scientific truth and educated facts is "the work of the devil".


Ah so when you refer to CLC you mean closed AIO units..

I can verify coming from an 'open' loop to a temporary h100i that I've unfortunately been stuck with for a year now due to money issues. The radiator is full aluminum and very fragile, not enough coolant in the loop and/or an under powered pump which should be obvious by lack of any specification, the tubes are much hotter to the touch closer to the CPU. This is the reason they include 2700 RPM (38 dBA) fans, I have to put them on maximum speed compete with an nh-d15 at much lower noise, that's pathetic for 'water cooling'.

Not that I hate AIO because it's good enough for people who are afraid to order parts and fit a loop together, my issue is the price they charge for what you're getting PLUS the added risk of losing a pump that you just don't have to deal with on an air cooler. For just a little bit more you can get an XSPC raystorm with a copper core 360 rad with a much more efficient (albeit noisy) res/pump combo, no way any of the AIOs are going to cool as well afaik.


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Ah so when you refer to CLC you mean closed AIO units..
> 
> I can verify coming from an 'open' loop to a temporary h100i that I've unfortunately been stuck with for a year now due to money issues. The radiator is full aluminum and very fragile, not enough coolant in the loop and/or an under powered pump which should be obvious by lack of any specification, the tubes are much hotter to the touch closer to the CPU. This is the reason they include 2700 RPM (38 dBA) fans, I have to put them on maximum speed compete with an nh-d15 at much lower noise, that's pathetic for 'water cooling'.
> 
> Not that I hate AIO because it's good enough for people who are afraid to order parts and fit a loop together, my issue is the price they charge for what you're getting PLUS the added risk of losing a pump that you just don't have to deal with on an air cooler. For just a little bit more you can get an XSPC raystorm with a copper core 360 rad with a much more efficient (albeit noisy) res/pump combo, no way any of the AIOs are going to cool as well afaik.


The first WC'ing I had was an H100i, it did make as difference over the stock cooler. I wasn't happy, though, with the temp's...

So I did some research, and found the Swifthech H220... The Swiftech dropped my temps by 10c idle and 9c at load...

The Swiftech had a better pump, and copper fins with brass tubes in the radiator, a lot better than the Corsair...

Well, I got hooked on water cooling, and now have a full custom loop. Very expensive endeavor, to the tune of a couple thou, for the loop the way it is now!


----------



## snipekill2445

I pulled my loop and put a D15 in instead, I do miss how quiet my loop was with the pump on it's lowest speed,
but in order to have any chance of overclocking the pump had to be on it's highest setting, making a ton of noise and vibrations, hence why I pulled it out


----------



## RockeyDA

hay gus, long time no post, but i got a ghetto woofer for you guys, and if i can pull off geting a mostly intact magnet on it i might try using it for real.
this was one of my get it working witohut spending any money type thing... but i did end up buying jb weld... works great buy the way, and was cheapest epoxy there.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Heat doesn't bother me all that much so that sounds quite nice.


35+ C with 90% humidity for extended period of time can be lethal. There is different kinds of "heat" and some forms are not suitable for humans. There are regions on Earth that are unsuitable for human settlement without technology. Or living in a cave for most of the day and only coming out in twilight for limited period of time


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The point went right over your head.
> 
> CLC are built so cheaply and lightly they don't have the abiltiy to do a good job. Cheap aluminium and plastic radiators versus heavier copper and brass raidators. is the point.
> 
> Volume of water flow is the point. For a pump to move much water requires power. Power requires electrical power draw. Simple logic is that if it takes 2-3 watts of power to run a fan capable of move a reasonable amount of air. It will that more watts to move water. The reason custom loop pumps use more power is to move more water .. Water moving through the block on CPU is extremely important. CLC pumps move just barely enough water to do the job and because they are such low volume they are also low power.
> 
> "Strap some high speed fans"?? Really. CLC pumps move less water than I can pee. They have "high speed fans" on them out of the box in an attempt to overcome the poor cooling ability of their cheap radiators with very high density fins.
> 
> The "fact" is strap the same kind of high flow fans on a top air cooler and supply it with air the same temp as air going into radiator and it will cool better than CLC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is CLC cultists are extreme fanatics. Truth and fact mean nothing to fanatics. Presenting them with scientific truth and educated facts is "the work of the devil".


To be honest I have not used CLC, only high end air coolers and custom loop. However, this up to about 10C difference is what I was considering to be "in the same ballpark". Even with custom loop for CPU the differences are not dramatic, I mean, for example, for i7-3820 @ 4.5 GHz and stock volts with high end air cooler one will hit about 70 C under full load and with EK-Supermacy block and nova 1080 (9x 120 mm) radiator about 60 C. You are ofc correct that noise levels are different.

However, my point was that GPU's benefit a lot more. For a GPU normally the difference between air cooler and custom loop is in the ballpark of 30 C. Thats already pretty significant. Then again for GPU's the options for aftermarket air coolers are somewhat limited. So it's basically like comparing a stock heatsink to a water cooling and that difference is pretty dramatic even on CPU's.

So in a nutshell it seems we are not exactly disagreeing - just putting emphasis on different aspects.


----------



## snipekill2445

Having my 280x on air sits at ~80c during gaming, and just ~40c or so under water, GPU waterblocks are an amazing thing


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The point went right over your head.
> 
> CLC are built so cheaply and lightly they don't have the abiltiy to do a good job. Cheap aluminium and plastic radiators versus heavier copper and brass raidators. is the point.
> 
> Volume of water flow is the point. For a pump to move much water requires power. Power requires electrical power draw. Simple logic is that if it takes 2-3 watts of power to run a fan capable of move a reasonable amount of air. It will that more watts to move water. The reason custom loop pumps use more power is to move more water .. Water moving through the block on CPU is extremely important. CLC pumps move just barely enough water to do the job and because they are such low volume they are also low power.
> 
> "Strap some high speed fans"?? Really. CLC pumps move less water than I can pee. They have "high speed fans" on them out of the box in an attempt to overcome the poor cooling ability of their cheap radiators with very high density fins.
> 
> The "fact" is strap the same kind of high flow fans on a top air cooler and supply it with air the same temp as air going into radiator and it will cool better than CLC.
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is CLC cultists are extreme fanatics. Truth and fact mean nothing to fanatics. Presenting them with scientific truth and educated facts is "the work of the devil".


lol i misread that. i was half asleep at the time. Yea i put deltas on my h100 and that was the only time it stepped past my dads noctua.


----------



## Alex132

Only thing AIO has going for me is size/weight, ability to direct heat, looks (sometimes) and ease of use.

I can very much hear the pumps on my R9 295X2s AIO cooler, but it works pretty well and is able to direct the heat away from the GPUs to directly outside of my case. Most aftermarket GPU air coolers tend to push the GPU heat into the case.

Something like the 7990s stock cooler would heat up my case hugely, and thus heat up my CPU a lot too (as the hot air would go through my top radiator).


----------



## doyll

There are a couple AIO systems that are quite good. Swiftech and EKWB make a couple. The others all seem to be cheap garbage packaged with bells & whistles and hawked by shysters behind smoke and mirrors. I said this when they first hit the market with no reviews, almost no specifications give and extremely high failure rates in first batches. I've only had a couple in my hands, but know a fair few qualified testers and reviewers (that keep good data and use good procedures (as in know the difference between room ambient and cooler intake air temp .. and apply it). None of them have anything good to say about CLCs.

Now 3 years in we are seeing more and more X-CLCers posting about going back to air asking what cooler to get, or have gone back to air and are amazed their temps (and noise levels) are much better now,.

CLCs
are not easier to install
(mounting pump block might be, but by the time radiaotor, fans and all cabling is finished they take just as long.. often longer)
do not take up less room
(actual area of component is very close to the same)
have a much higher failure rate
(okay maybe it's on 7 out of 1000, but air is maybe 1 out of 10,000)
(if air fails it's a fan, most systems still function, though not under heavy load, any fan can be rubber banded on until replacement is acquired, an all that is needed is a fan simple, quick , cheap)
(CLC fails, 999 out of 1000 it's a leak of pump failure .. systen stone dead until CLC is replaced .. not simple, not cheap, not quick.)

I say there is really no 'up-side' to using CLC ... None! Even though there are case designs that only supportt CLC and not air, that only compounds the problems.

On top of what garbage CLCs are, we've ended up with is a bunch of bastardized cases to accommodate CLC radiators, but do not have room for custom loop components, but do a poor job at flowing cool air to components and removing heated exhaust air. Add these case issues to the lack of industry understanding of case airflow and how it should be versus how some twit with "design engineer" in their title .. or "senior designer" or "team leader" and we have ended up with a glut of case that require major modifications to flow air properly. At the very least they need better fans, more fans, and provisions for case fan control that sync's with component demands.

Sorry, but the whole CLC 'water cooled' hype has been a huge negative in every aspect.

If you want 'water cooling' go custom loop, Switech H140-X H220-X or H240-X; EK Predator 240 or 360; or custom loop kit as mentioned above.

And we need more cases that are really designed to flow air properly.. Cool air in the front to all component and component heated exhaust moving back and out of case without contaminating the cool air. Forget top vents, side vents, etc. Most of the time they screw up good airflow rather than improve it.

We also need to drag the GPU industry out of their idiot boxes. Even a pig only uses one corner of it's pen for waste. So why to GPU draw cool air in one side and discharge the heated 'waste' in every possible direction? ! ? !







Even many top oem CPU coolers have evolved from top down heaters to cool air in front and 'waste' goes out the back.

In most *reasonably* designed cases I can keep component intake air within 5c of room temp .. But GPU feces cooling feces designs make it impossible (in most cases) to cool more than one GPU properly.

But it can be done. Here is a concept design

or raphics card mounted parallel to side panel with PCIe riser. Fans pulling air out of cooler and exhausting out of case through custom vents in side panel.

Gigabyte 7970 SOC Windforce 5X actually reach consumers


@Serious_Don
Yeah, to me they are very different beasts. Yes, all CLC are AIO, but some AIO are not CLC .. and are noting like CLC

@Carniflex
Quick test; go into a computer store and pick up a CLC in one hand and a similar sized component radiator in the other hand. My guess I you won't need to change hand to know which one is lighter .. and I'm even guess you will have a rather shocked expression .. maybe even speak a few imperative words..









Bare weight of 280 Asetek CLC (sealed system and attached cable) is 870 grams.








Bare XSPC EX280 Dual Fan Radiator weights 855 gram.









10c is often a huge difference. Granted on 35c to 45c is "in the same ballpark" / no big deal. But for an AMD 55c is great .. while 65c is suicide .. . On Intel 70c is sweet, 80c is scary .. .NOT "in the same ballpark" Both of these examples are "out of the ballpark".


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Serious_Don
> Yeah, to me they are very different beasts. Yes, all CLC are AIO, but some AIO are not CLC .. and are noting like CLC
> 
> @Carniflex
> 10c is often a huge difference. Granted on 35c to 45c is "in the same ballpark" / no big deal. But for an AMD 55c is great .. while 65c is suicide .. . On Intel 70c is sweet, 80c is scary .. .NOT "in the same ballpark" Both of these examples are "out of the ballpark".


90C+ is scary for Intel








But I only run mid 60s at 1.52V in Prime so doesn't really concern me heh. I will reach insane voltages before I reach that 90C.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> 90C+ is scary for Intel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I only run mid 60s at 1.52V in Prime so doesn't really concern me heh. I will reach insane voltages before I reach that 90C.


80c is scary.
90c is house of horrors.









Much depends on how high normal use is. A couple of my systms run 70-100% load about 10% of the them. While that may not sound like a lot, 50% load on all cores at same time is rare .. I would venture to guess many never run 50% for more than a few minutes at a time.
60s on Prime is great.


----------



## vicyo

Haaa.... My setup for this cursed summer:
The asgard was getting way to hot for my taste, 50C is a no-go



You can always put more clothes during the winter, but you cannot remove clothes once you are naked on summer


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> You can always put more clothes during the winter, but you cannot remove clothes once you are naked on summer


You can only take off so many clothes before it's illegal

Thankfully it doesn't get that hot here in NZ, the hottest days are around 30c, but it's mostly between 20-25c


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> You can only take off so many clothes before it's illegal
> 
> Thankfully it doesn't get that hot here in NZ, the hottest days are around 30c, but it's mostly between 20-25c


It's all about TPO! You can be stark naked in your room, in a nudist community/beach or on TV








Here many (me included) follow the rule that is never too hot to remove your shirt... unless you are workout maniac or a barbarian like people from Rio









For me 23°C ir preferred and 20°C and below is optimal. Anything above 27 is annoying


----------



## DiaSin

My temporary stand for the 4th monitor I just added to this setup. Oh, you can see the cookie-tin stand I have been using on a permanent basis for my second monitor too, which I've posted here before. This is the box from my new PSU, a book, and a few wads of plastic wrap between the back of the monitors base and the book to tilt it at a bit of a downwards angle but keep it from sliding off. The 4th monitor looks good from where I'm actually sitting, which is what really matters.

Side note.. I forgot how thick the old pre-led LCD monitors were until I dug this thing out of the closet. Its like all 3 of my good displays stacked up. I also forgot how REALLY bad their viewing angles usually were, hence the wads of plastic-wrap keeping it tilted downwards.


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Side note.. I forgot how thick the old pre-led LCD monitors were until I dug this thing out of the closet. Its like all 3 of my good displays stacked up. I also forgot how REALLY bad their viewing angles usually were, hence the wads of plastic-wrap keeping it tilted downwards. ]


I had the pleasure to remember that a mount ago T.T
I got a G610HDA with the protective plastics still attached and was going to use as a secondary monitor until I saw that it was horrible to use it on the vertical that I just ditched the idea. It even had the very 90's green and orange led indicator


----------



## RockeyDA

KICKER UPDATE****
I put the kicer in a crappy seald box i had laying around and... this sub actually sounds like a real sub. hittin lows, hitten hard. i really wanna know what this would do in a tuned box. my amp distorts before the sub did. kinda shocked cuz this coil is only an alright coil and the new magnet should be worse than the old one. gonna have to make a new vid soon.


----------



## -Leopold-

Finally, my Low Profile CPU-Cooler arrived yesterday (Silverstone Argon AR-05), so i started to put my new hardware in this tiny case (9.6L). The case only offers a single pci slot, so i had to mod it a little bit. I simply cut a hole in the back to mount the PSU above the CPU-Cooler.





Cablemanagement of Doom










Lets see how toasty it gets - looking around for a small case with a better Airflow









Hardware:

Mainboard: ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+
CPU: AMD Athlon x4 860K, Black Edition
GPU: Club 3D Radeon R7 260X royalQueen, 2.048MB GDDR5 RAM
RAM: 2x 4.096MB G.Skill RipJawsX DDR3, 1.600MHz
PSU: be quiet! SFX Power 2, 300W Bronze
CPU-Cooler: Silverstone Argon AR-05


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> Finally, my Low Profile CPU-Cooler arrived yesterday (Silverstone Argon AR-05), so i started to put my new hardware in this tiny case (9.6L). The case only offers a single pci slot, so i had to mod it a little bit. I simply cut a hole in the back to mount the PSU above the CPU-Cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cablemanagement of Doom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see how toasty it gets - looking around for a small case with a better Airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware:
> 
> Mainboard: ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+
> CPU: AMD Athlon x4 860K, Black Edition
> GPU: Club 3D Radeon R7 260X royalQueen, 2.048MB GDDR5 RAM
> RAM: 2x 4.096MB G.Skill RipJawsX DDR3, 1.600MHz
> PSU: be quiet! SFX Power 2, 300W Bronze
> CPU-Cooler: Silverstone Argon AR-05


that's cute







you cut that with a dremel? Looks pro


----------



## -Leopold-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> that's cute
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you cut that with a dremel? Looks pro


Thank you







And yes


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> Finally, my Low Profile CPU-Cooler arrived yesterday (Silverstone Argon AR-05), so i started to put my new hardware in this tiny case (9.6L). The case only offers a single pci slot, so i had to mod it a little bit. I simply cut a hole in the back to mount the PSU above the CPU-Cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cablemanagement of Doom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets see how toasty it gets - looking around for a small case with a better Airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hardware:
> 
> Mainboard: ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+
> CPU: AMD Athlon x4 860K, Black Edition
> GPU: Club 3D Radeon R7 260X royalQueen, 2.048MB GDDR5 RAM
> RAM: 2x 4.096MB G.Skill RipJawsX DDR3, 1.600MHz
> PSU: be quiet! SFX Power 2, 300W Bronze
> CPU-Cooler: Silverstone Argon AR-05
> 
> 
> 
> that's cute
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you cut that with a dremel? Looks pro
Click to expand...

Yeah, too pro to be ghetto.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes


Very nice cuts for dremel.


----------



## Powerg4

Very good cuts, using a dremel that accurately is hard!









I had a moment of ghetto inspiration today as well!









Dragged out an old Antec case (looks about 12-15 years old?) from under the work bench today intending to use it for a small build. Unfortunately since I shoved it under there about 2 years ago after scrapping it for parts, it had accumulated a number of nasty scratches from being next to other cases, sheet metal etc. It looked especially awful due to the white scrapes which really showed up on the shiny black metal.

I couldn't be bothered repainting it since it was only a few small scratches and spray paint is expensive, so out came the black permanent marker! Did a surprisingly good job of hiding the damage actually, there was a large scratch at the front left of the plastic panel which is almost invisible now unless you look very closely and you can see the ink!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Very good cuts, using a dremel that accurately is hard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a moment of ghetto inspiration today as well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dragged out an old Antec case (looks about 12-15 years old?) from under the work bench today intending to use it for a small build. Unfortunately since I shoved it under there about 2 years ago after scrapping it for parts, it had accumulated a number of nasty scratches from being next to other cases, sheet metal etc. It looked especially awful due to the white scrapes which really showed up on the shiny black metal.
> 
> I couldn't be bothered repainting it since it was only a few small scratches and spray paint is expensive, so out came the black permanent marker! Did a surprisingly good job of hiding the damage actually, there was a large scratch at the front left of the plastic panel which is almost invisible now unless you look very closely and you can see the ink!


Antec Sonata. It was released around 2004 I think. I have one collecting dust along with the Sonata II.

Good quiet case, but rather poor airflow(strange for one of the early cases to switch to 120mm fans, but that front was just too restrictive).


----------



## Powerg4

I agree, very poor airflow! I actually removed the front cover and removed tons of dust that had just become trapped under it with no where to go.


----------



## Nukemaster

It should have a filter you can remove from the bottom. Not the best idea, but better than nothing.

I always wanted to cut out the hard drive bays and try to get better air flow. Maybe even mod it so the power supply was on the bottom, but it is not a very deep case so that may have its own downsides with optical drives.


----------



## RockeyDA

im using ghetto were i dont wanna be... i just got my new sub and i need enough wood for a 7'^3 box, i only have 1 sheet of ply wood atm. dont got the money to buy any, still dumpster diving trying to find more. but untill im so lucky i made the best of what i have.



4.5'^3 tuned at 28hz and rattles like all hell, but works, cuz i made the stove upstairs rattle, thats something no other sub has rattled.


and yes its the box it came in.
****EDIT***
Yesterday i struck gold and found alot of wood dumpster diving, i planned out my box and made my cuts, now i have to sand, glue and screw, but im out of screws and glue.
this is my first woofer box i ever built, and heres my paper i made to plan it out and to build it.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Just put a few layers of fiber glass over it and call it done.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> im using ghetto were i dont wanna be... i just got my new sub and i need enough wood for a 7'^3 box, i only have 1 sheet of ply wood atm. dont got the money to buy any, still dumpster diving trying to find more. but untill im so lucky i made the best of what i have.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.5'^3 tuned at 28hz and rattles like all hell, but works, cuz i made the stove upstairs rattle, thats something no other sub has rattled.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yes its the box it came in.


My mom designs speakers and subs and other sound equipment. She thoroughly approves.


----------



## RockeyDA

UPDATE!!!!
i have a real box for my woofer, and i screwed it up so asoon as i get the wood again im starting over and making a better one.


----------



## espgodson

welp i had to make a quick case to fit into my small backpack so i did with gorilla tape and cardboard









specs:
intel i5 4670k
msi gtx 760 itx
msi gaming itx
16gb ddr3 1866 (only 1 shown but i found my other one in a drawer!)
a whopping 120gb samsung ssd
silverstone 450w sfx
3m pci-x cable
gorilla tape
cardboard..




i had to have a computer to setup at this hospital suite because my dad had brian tumor surgery (it was yesterday and a success! but we won't know if it's benign until later today or tomorrow)

anyways appreciate my ghettoness


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *espgodson*
> 
> welp i had to make a quick case to fit into my small backpack so i did with gorilla tape and cardboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~snip~


Nice! I'd like to know what that keyboard in the corner of the picture is though


----------



## espgodson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Nice! I'd like to know what that keyboard in the corner of the picture is though


https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1528 with https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=864 keycaps =)

probably gonna switch to https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1322 because my niece likes to play on my computer and cant find my keys that well


----------



## mr squishy

Beautiful. I love that green. I'll stick to my alps keyboard though ; )


----------



## espgodson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Beautiful. I love that green. I'll stick to my alps keyboard though ; )


haha yeah if I had my way all of my stuff would be green







it's missing some features I would like but I made media keys and disabled windows key with AHK


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *espgodson*
> 
> https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1528 with https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=864 keycaps =)
> 
> probably gonna switch to https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1322 because my niece likes to play on my computer and cant find my keys that well


what? you can buy colord keys for keybords? is there keys with black bottions and red text? i dont care what there for ile make them fit on mine.


----------



## Powerg4

Nice case!








Also that keyboard does look great in green, I should get myself a decent one someday, here I am using a mushy microsoft wireless keyboard/mouse combo I got for nothing, better than the old beige keyboard I had though!


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Nice case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also that keyboard does look great in green, I should get myself a decent one someday, here I am using a mushy microsoft wireless keyboard/mouse combo I got for nothing, better than the old beige keyboard I had though!


Newer isn't always better. I'm using a 32 year old beige alps keyboard with my main rig and it's still trucking like a champ


----------



## Zonengorg

Keep the good work up guys, so many ideas...


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> what? you can buy colord keys for keybords? is there keys with black bottions and red text? i dont care what there for ile make them fit on mine.


You can change keycaps on vast majority of mechanical keyboards. Having different keycaps is not the only customization one can do with these - dampener rings, custom springs and few more tricks can be done with these.


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Newer isn't always better. I'm using a 32 year old beige alps keyboard with my main rig and it's still trucking like a champ


Agreed, in fact my old beige keyboard was of better quality with the nice chunky keys, only thing was that the letters had started to rub off!
It's also nice to save a usb port by using the old PS/2 connector, not many still have those, although you can buy a converter I think.

I have about five old beige keyboards in the shed right now, should clean some up!








Yours sounds like a proper vintage one, would be nice to see if you have any pictures of it.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carniflex*
> 
> You can change keycaps on vast majority of mechanical keyboards. Having different keycaps is not the only customization one can do with these - dampener rings, custom springs and few more tricks can be done with these.


is keycap just another way of saying keys?


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> is keycap just another way of saying keys?


It's only the cover-part with the lettering, but without the mechanical part of the key.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *espgodson*
> 
> welp i had to make a quick case to fit into my small backpack so i did with gorilla tape and cardboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> specs:
> intel i5 4670k
> msi gtx 760 itx
> msi gaming itx
> 16gb ddr3 1866 (only 1 shown but i found my other one in a drawer!)
> a whopping 120gb samsung ssd
> silverstone 450w sfx
> 3m pci-x cable
> gorilla tape
> cardboard..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had to have a computer to setup at this hospital suite because my dad had brian tumor surgery (it was yesterday and a success! but we won't know if it's benign until later today or tomorrow)
> 
> anyways appreciate my ghettoness


that's a pretty interesting computer right there...lol...good luck and best wishes for your pops


----------



## DraganUS

That thing above is just looking for trouble.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *espgodson*
> 
> welp i had to make a quick case to fit into my small backpack so i did with gorilla tape and cardboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> specs:
> intel i5 4670k
> msi gtx 760 itx
> msi gaming itx
> 16gb ddr3 1866 (only 1 shown but i found my other one in a drawer!)
> a whopping 120gb samsung ssd
> silverstone 450w sfx
> 3m pci-x cable
> gorilla tape
> cardboard..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had to have a computer to setup at this hospital suite because my dad had brian tumor surgery (it was yesterday and a success! but we won't know if it's benign until later today or tomorrow)
> 
> anyways appreciate my ghettoness


I can't make sense of it. That's some good ghetto rigging there.


----------



## Boinz

Duct tape is the clay from which Ghetto is created.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> It's only the cover-part with the lettering, but without the mechanical part of the key.


so the keys? on my keyboards with switches poping the keys out is quite similar to membrane. but theirs usliy a little (+) thing or something else were the keys kinda lock on.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so the keys? on my keyboards with switches poping the keys out is quite similar to membrane. but theirs usliy a little (+) thing or something else were the keys kinda lock on.


Everything above the "+" is the key-cap.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Agreed, in fact my old beige keyboard was of better quality with the nice chunky keys, only thing was that the letters had started to rub off!
> It's also nice to save a usb port by using the old PS/2 connector, not many still have those, although you can buy a converter I think.
> 
> I have about five old beige keyboards in the shed right now, should clean some up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yours sounds like a proper vintage one, would be nice to see if you have any pictures of it.


Here's a nice picture for you!


Edit: Thanks for the REP!


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Here's a nice picture for you!
> 
> 
> Edit: Thanks for the REP!


Do I see an apple logo there? ewwwwwwwwwww


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Do I see an apple logo there? ewwwwwwwwwww


Old Apple keyboards were some of the only ones to use alps switches. Shove off.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Old Apple keyboards were some of the only ones to use alps switches. Shove off.


Nice keyboard, find it in a closet or did you buy it? How much if so and how do you like those switches?


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Nice keyboard, find it in a closet or did you buy it? How much if so and how do you like those switches?


My high school art teacher actually gave it to me! He had lets students use the keycaps as molds. When I got it it was absolutely covered in orange clay. I had to deep clean the keycaps and buy a few missing ones but other than that the keyboard was in pretty good shape. The keyboard actually isn't usb by default, so I had to convert it myself by soldering in my micro controller and using code provided by the wonderful user hasu on Geekhack to convert the adb signals to usb. The switches are orange alps, which are extremely smooth. they are like a linear switch but are actually slightly tactile.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> My high school art teacher actually gave it to me! He had lets students use the keycaps as molds. When I got it it was absolutely covered in orange clay. I had to deep clean the keycaps and buy a few missing ones but other than that the keyboard was in pretty good shape. The keyboard actually isn't usb by default, so I had to convert it myself by soldering in my micro controller and using code provided by the wonderful user hasu on Geekhack to convert the adb signals to usb. The switches are orange alps, which are extremely smooth. they are like a linear switch but are actually slightly tactile.


Wow nice, good job cleaning it up and getting the converter working, I've seen those controllers Hasu sells. Wouldn't mind having one of those for myself, apple logo and all


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> My high school art teacher actually gave it to me! He had lets students use the keycaps as molds. When I got it it was absolutely covered in orange clay. I had to deep clean the keycaps and buy a few missing ones but other than that the keyboard was in pretty good shape. The keyboard actually isn't usb by default, so I had to convert it myself by soldering in my micro controller and using code provided by the wonderful user hasu on Geekhack to convert the adb signals to usb. The switches are orange alps, which are extremely smooth. they are like a linear switch but are actually slightly tactile.


Looks good for something you got in that shape.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Wow nice, good job cleaning it up and getting the converter working, I've seen those controllers Hasu sells. Wouldn't mind having one of those for myself, apple logo and all


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Looks good for something you got in that shape.


Thanks guys!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TONSCHUH*
> 
> Everything above the "+" is the key-cap.


but i though that was the key. and the plastic + thing was the switch.


i actually broke one of my keys in this pic and gotta break out the super glue, the Compaq keyboard is the only mechanical one i have you there is something colors under the keys, or as you call them key caps.


----------



## TONSCHUH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> but i though that was the key. and the plastic + thing was the switch.
> 
> 
> i actually broke one of my keys in this pic and gotta break out the super glue, the Compaq keyboard is the only mechanical one i have you there is something colors under the keys, or as you call them key caps.


For me a key is the key-cap + the actual switch.


----------



## Nukemaster

Anyone remember when the key actually had a cap that came off leaving a blank slightly smaller key under it.

Used to mess with keyboards that way(move all the keys around or leave works on the F keys). The middle of the F keys said nuke an awful lot









They can be seen on this page(google result).








http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2013/11/why-i-use-a-20-year-old-ibm-model-m-keyboard/


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Anyone remember when the key actually had a cap that came off leaving a blank slightly smaller key under it.
> 
> Used to mess with keyboards that way(move all the keys around or leave works on the F keys). The middle of the F keys said nuke an awful lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> They can be seen on this page(google result).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2013/11/why-i-use-a-20-year-old-ibm-model-m-keyboard/


wait is that why my ibm model m has some blank keys? i thought they just were generic or something.

only reason i grabbed a keyboard this bad off was it was 1$ and feels great. well actually its the best keyboard i have ever used by a large amount. but its to big and missing keys. oh and this ibm monitor came with it.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> wait is that why my ibm model m has some blank keys? i thought they just were generic or something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only reason i grabbed a keyboard this bad off was it was 1$ and feels great. well actually its the best keyboard i have ever used by a large amount. but its to big and missing keys. oh and this ibm monitor came with it.


While the space comes off, I do not think it was made to do that









And oh boy does that monitor bring back memories.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> While the space comes off, I do not think it was made to do that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And oh boy does that monitor bring back memories.


the space is a controll key, so i could still use it. my laptop has no space bar either so im used to a button blow b and n.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the space is a controll key, so i could still use it. my laptop has no space bar either so im used to a button blow b and n.


what do you do to these poor keyboard


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> what do you do to these poor keyboard


nothing, read earlier post, was missing keys when i bought it. but ti came with monitor for 1 $


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Newer isn't always better. I'm using a 32 year old beige alps keyboard with my main rig and it's still trucking like a champ


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Here's a nice picture for you!
> 
> 
> Edit: Thanks for the REP!


Very cool keyboard you have there!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Ghetto under 30c gaming @ 7680 x 1440p


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> Ghetto under 30c gaming @ 7680 x 1440p


NOW THAT'S GHETTO


----------



## Joe88

I wonder what the electricity bill is on that


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> NOW THAT'S GHETTO


Kinda its just that it grew to big for my old enermax case .....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe88*
> 
> I wonder what the electricity bill is on that


$350 AU a qtr for the whole house ;-}


----------



## Powerg4

Just finished my latest ghetto dumpster build!









Pentium III 450 mhz, 512mb ram, 80gb IDE Hard disk and viper v550 AGP graphics!

The whole thing is bolted into a plastic tray from a record player cover, mainboard came from an old dell tower (the case I used in my Back in Beige mod)

Dell bios is awful and the PIII needed re-seating several times before it would even boot.








Also zip tied an old P4 fan on to keep it cool















Nice work by the way, very impressive radiator!


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Just finished my latest *ghetto dumpster build!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pentium III 450 mhz, 512mb ram, 80gb IDE Hard disk and viper v550 AGP graphics!
> 
> The whole thing is bolted into a plastic tray from a record player cover, mainboard came from an old dell tower (the case I used in my Back in Beige mod)
> 
> Dell bios is awful and the PIII needed re-seating several times before it would even boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also zip tied an old P4 fan on to keep it cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work by the way, very impressive radiator!


Ghetto dumpster build ........... classic ........


----------



## feznz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOMECINEMA-PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto under 30c gaming @ 7680 x 1440p




you are my mentor in ghetto builds







I got a long way to go


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feznz*
> 
> 
> 
> you are my mentor in ghetto builds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a long way to go


Glad to be a inspiration to ya









I hid the ghetto wiring harness behind the rads , its my enermax case wiring harness ........


----------



## 0493mike

Hes a mad scientist out to rule the world. That's just part of his death ray.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I found this guide and it gave me bad ideas:
http://www.instructables.com/id/USB-heated-Mouse/step3/Add-Parts/

Basically, I made a heated mouse using two 22ohm 10w resistors. I don't have pics because I really don't want to try to cram this mouse back together again with everything in it.


----------



## rodaduck

ok her is my latest ghetto project !! what is it?


----------



## JourneymanMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> ok her is my latest ghetto project !! what is it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Since it's Ghetto...

It's a big Cockroach!!!!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I found this guide and it gave me bad ideas:
> http://www.instructables.com/id/USB-heated-Mouse/step3/Add-Parts/
> 
> Basically, I made a heated mouse using two 22ohm 10w resistors. I don't have pics because I really don't want to try to cram this mouse back together again with everything in it.


It is interesting, but 2 x 11 ohm resistors in parallel is pretty close(about 455ma) to the normal 500ma USB power. I know many boards will provide more however.

As long as the port can take some extra load, it should be interesting to see the finished product.


----------



## rodaduck

and you are the winner !!!!! it is a Mad-65 , i had recently bought a rat 7 from ebay that was broke , fully refunded and i had a corsair m65 that i broke when i was trying to figure out how to make it bigger so it fit my hand . so this seems like a perfect fit , all the electronics are corsair and the frame mad katz ..


----------



## cainy1991

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> ok her is my latest ghetto project !! what is it?


Actually looks really good man!

Great effort.


----------



## RockeyDA

so i saved my poorly tuned woofer box and got my 18 sounding like an 18 without rebuilding, had just enough scrap wood from original cuts to pull it off.




now dew to lack of proper tools my box is way crooked, 23" on one side 24" on the other, so this pice did not fit right, so i screwed it down and filled the gaps with great stuff since glue wouldnt of done anything for most of the gaps being 1/4 an inch think or so.


and here is a little before and after of just the sundown.


doing a tone sweep did not impress me, but once i went to actual music, my mind was blown.
im missing out above 40hz alot compared to blow, but 40-20hz is crazy loud now, every door in the house rattles. i can pick up the missing notes with my alpine with i plan to do when i get home from work.
first 2 songs i played that wowed me were "Big Kurt - My Sub" and "Young Jeezy - What I Do (Just Like That)"
still aint hittin the low low in big kurt my sub so definitely still gonna try and build a T-Line.

my next post will probably be on the scrap kicker, as i plan on putting that thing in custom built box and seeing what it can do.


----------



## billbartuska

Dell Optiplex 755, replaced Intel Core 2 Duo E6450 (2.33 GHz) with Core 2 Quad Q9400 (OC'd to 3.2 GHz) and needed more cooling.

Had this nice stock AMD dual heat pipe cooler laying around so....


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so i saved my poorly tuned woofer box and got my 18 sounding like an 18 without rebuilding, had just enough scrap wood from original cuts to pull it off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now dew to lack of proper tools my box is way crooked, 23" on one side 24" on the other, so this pice did not fit right, so i screwed it down and filled the gaps with great stuff since glue wouldnt of done anything for most of the gaps being 1/4 an inch think or so.
> 
> 
> and here is a little before and after of just the sundown.
> 
> 
> doing a tone sweep did not impress me, but once i went to actual music, my mind was blown.
> im missing out above 40hz alot compared to blow, but 40-20hz is crazy loud now, every door in the house rattles. i can pick up the missing notes with my alpine with i plan to do when i get home from work.
> first 2 songs i played that wowed me were "Big Kurt - My Sub" and "Young Jeezy - What I Do (Just Like That)"
> still aint hittin the low low in big kurt my sub so definitely still gonna try and build a T-Line.
> 
> my next post will probably be on the scrap kicker, as i plan on putting that thing in custom built box and seeing what it can do.


Ported?

Custom box usually cost about $20-30 in wood and materials. Use 3/4" mdf. You should try for a ported design and use WinISD for getting the calculations.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Dell Optiplex 755, replaced Intel Core 2 Duo E6450 (2.33 GHz) with Core 2 Quad Q9400 (OC'd to 3.2 GHz) and needed more cooling.
> 
> Had this nice stock AMD dual heat pipe cooler laying around so....


You should throw a 771 xeon in there


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vario*
> 
> Ported?
> 
> Custom box usually cost about $20-30 in wood and materials. Use 3/4" mdf. You should try for a ported design and use WinISD for getting the calculations.


uhhh? did you not read post? it is ported, thats why theres a tuning freq. and i fixed the tuning, and my not buiding another ported box, this is TEMPORARY, Transmission Line, thats what im going for. and that program you speak of, i have tried it, its kinda screwy and nothing like how it actually works in the real world, would not recommend basing box dimensions off that.

and finaly, wood cost, one of my firedns just built a woofer box, he used 3 sheets of 2x4 3/4" thick (way to thin for my sub) and that cost him 75$ to use that would i would have to use 2 sheets of wood for every side and would need about 8 sheets of wood with the port extension i added. thats 200$ in wood. im broke and only half way twards buying an amp that can actually push my sub.

ile stick to my dumpster diving wood thats 1.25" think 2x4's




vid on some new rattles.


----------



## snipekill2445

That box is pretty.. ghetto

May even look worse than the first sub box I ever built

My second attempt making a speaker enclosure went better


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipekill2445*
> 
> That box is pretty.. ghetto
> 
> May even look worse than the first sub box I ever built
> 
> My second attempt making a speaker enclosure went better


looks legit to me, whats ghetto bout it? even looks staind and glossed.


----------



## snipekill2445

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> looks legit to me, whats ghetto bout it? even looks staind and glossed.


It's not super ghetto, although upclose pics show the many imperfections,

Made them with car components speakers, have the crossovers hot glued to the sides and the tweeters gasket sealed into the holes (cut them too big)

A few of my measurements were off too, so the sides hang out from the back a fair ways

Painted it with regular spray paint in a can to give it the glossy look


----------



## RockeyDA

apparently my post is gone, so im reposting this, my rigged up sound system causing voltage dips on the 120 line.
probably because i have 3 sub amps running at same time. and since one of my amps is a car amp running off of a 14.4v power supply i would say thats still ghetto.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Dell Optiplex 755, replaced Intel Core 2 Duo E6450 (2.33 GHz) with Core 2 Quad Q9400 (OC'd to 3.2 GHz) and needed more cooling.
> 
> Had this nice stock AMD dual heat pipe cooler laying around so....


How did you overclock that cpu on the DELL board? Do you have a custom bios?


----------



## billbartuska

SetFsb


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> apparently my post is gone, so im reposting this, my rigged up sound system causing voltage dips on the 120 line.
> probably because i have 3 sub amps running at same time. and since one of my amps is a car amp running off of a 14.4v power supply i would say thats still ghetto.


You need thicker power cables coming into your house. Maybe add a few line conditioners between the wall and your electronics so they don't get as much of a voltage drop.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> apparently my post is gone, so im reposting this, my rigged up sound system causing voltage dips on the 120 line.
> probably because i have 3 sub amps running at same time. and since one of my amps is a car amp running off of a 14.4v power supply i would say thats still ghetto.


Mods delete posts that stir the pot and/or upset others.









Seems you lack understanding of basic electrical line load and size demands. Your problem could be from many causes, but most likely is house wiring. The wiring from panel to receptacle you are plugged into. It's basic electrics and ohms law. If wire is not big enough it's resistance lowers the voltage and raised the wattage load and increases heat. This often resulting in burned up equipment.

Source of problem could be power to meter wiring from meter to panel, panel itself, wiring from panel, socket you are plugging into, wiring to amp, etc. Sub amps use huge amounts of power and often require caps to run smoothly.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Mods delete posts that stir the pot and/or upset others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems you lack understanding of basic electrical line load and size demands. Your problem could be from many causes, but most likely is house wiring. The wiring from panel to receptacle you are plugged into. It's basic electrics and ohms law. If wire is not big enough it's resistance lowers the voltage and raised the wattage load and increases heat. This often resulting in burned up equipment.
> 
> Source of problem could be power to meter wiring from meter to panel, panel itself, wiring from panel, socket you are plugging into, wiring to amp, etc. Sub amps use huge amounts of power and often require caps to run smoothly.


ooor, maby im pulling alot a power amperage wise. you ever turn on a 12 amp vacuum and notice the lights dip alittle till you turn it off? im running quite a few amps and thet all have there own transformers in them. my sound setup has 6 audio amps in it, 3 for subwoofers. and to prevent a ground loop my gaming rig is on same line, my rig idles at 4 amps of current being used, when im gaming that goes up to 9. and i know this because my power bar i run my desk off of has an amp meter in it. my sound equipment goes in to a different outlet but same line.
my mic on my cameras is really good about cancelling out really high levels of bass weather i want it to or not. i have been in 150db setups, and though i do not have a term lab, i guarantee you im pushing over 130 DB around 33HZ.

here is how a normal mic picks up the bass https://e47014b3b6b11f624aabe5a7f554abef7c1eceed-www.googledrive.com/host/0B_NytnWm-ehYUmRhdG1qSjJESVU/BASS.mp3

and the voltage dip aint that crazy, its only a few volts. in the car i go from 14.4v to 11v, there its only a few but thats a big difference relative to the voltage. and there i do have a cap, but the problem is caused by a stock alternator and low amperage run of the mill battery.


----------



## AngryFuture

Wall mount PC.
Celeron M 370 OC from 1.5ghz to 1.9... (pin mod)
3gb DDR2

Old PSU was burning caps, so spliced on a full ATX PSU.

Duties:
Music streamer...


----------



## rodaduck

fan block made from a phone charger case


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> Wall mount PC.
> Celeron M 370 OC from 1.5ghz to 1.9... (pin mod)
> 3gb DDR2
> 
> Old PSU was burning caps, so spliced on a full ATX PSU.
> 
> Duties:
> Music streamer...


Cases are over-rated








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> fan block made from a phone charger case


Is it just parallel connectors? Board shot?


----------



## rodaduck

no board is new maximus formula 7 but i have 13 fans and spent money on a fan controller i wasn't sure i was going to use but i going to try it out , my goal has been to not show wire so this little black may help i was building regular spliter but ran out of terminals , so i have some of this stuff around and made a block in parallel , thought it was a good re purpose of one of the many chargers i have around , honestly im unsure of the very final fan set up but block came out clean so if i end up not using no then ill use it later on something , i am going to run the pumps off the mobo for sure


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> no board is new maximus formula 7 but i have 13 fans and spent money on a fan controller i wasn't sure i was going to use but i going to try it out , my goal has been to not show wire so this little black may help i was building regular spliter but ran out of terminals , so i have some of this stuff around and made a block in parallel , thought it was a good re purpose of one of the many chargers i have around , honestly im unsure of the very final fan set up but block came out clean so if i end up not using no then ill use it later on something , i am going to run the pumps off the mobo for sure


If there's no pictures it didn't happen.....................


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> Wall mount PC.
> Celeron M 370 OC from 1.5ghz to 1.9... (pin mod)
> 3gb DDR2
> 
> Old PSU was burning caps, so spliced on a full ATX PSU.
> 
> Duties:
> Music streamer...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


were did you find a motherboard that small? that thing is smaller than my mini dell. surprised it still works with a normal powersupply, the mini dell takes 3 12v lines and 4 grounds 1 remote line. if i ever repurposed that dell it would be in the car, and its bout useless because no expansion slots, lintel chipset graphics.
but if i ever get my own car, or get some body to take me to the dmv so they will teach me how to drive, would make a nice replacement for a head unit.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You should throw a 771 xeon in there


you can put a 771 in a 775?
if so that sounds awesome, being able to use a quad core. a D965 is more than i wanna pay for only 2 cores. and the D950 i have now makes alot of heat for the cooler, ripped plastic panels off to increase air flow. made it much quieter.


----------



## Nightfallx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> you can put a 771 in a 775?
> if so that sounds awesome, being able to use a quad core. a D965 is more than i wanna pay for only 2 cores. and the D950 i have now makes alot of heat for the cooler, ripped plastic panels off to increase air flow. made it much quieter.


yeah you have to buy an adapter for it that you place on the processor.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightfallx*
> 
> yeah you have to buy an adapter for it that you place on the processor.


thats crazy! im so gonna do that. if i had a quad core i could keep using that dell for gaming, and i fired my gt 630 so thats reason enough to upgrade my gpu. i just quit using it for gaming because well you know, a system that only supports 2 cores just dont cut it anymore. once i get my second job its so gonna happen.


----------



## brodieboy143

Got around to upgrading my server today! I had my old Antec 900 II sitting around gathering dust and thought it would make a nice upgrade to the cardboard box I was previously running it on. Now, fitting a server board into an ATX case proved a little challenging, so some 'modifications' were in order.

The board actually reaches into the 5.25" bays at the front of the case, requiring some special mounting arrangements and a 92mm cooler on the CPU that sits partially under the drive cage. In order for the board to sit flat I had to hammer down the little tabs used for holding drives in place, then place a non conductive layer over the metal chassis. For this, I used clear adhesive book covering, as it stuck nicely to the surface, and was thin enough not to warp the board, but mainly since I had some lying around. A few plastic spacers were used where the screw holes didn't line up with the case, but surprisingly, most did.

I am using an old Dell 375W PSU since the system has little need for power beyond its two Xeon X5660 CPUs. Unfortunately, this unit is not a standard size and collides with the expansion slots when installed in this case. Fortunately, I found some longer screws lying around that allowed me to securely mount the supply about 10mm back from the rear of the case.

This mounting configuration proved rather useful as the 24-pin connector on the supply is tiny and requires an extension cable to reach the socket on the motherboard. Not wanting to buy anything to make this project work, I dug through my spare parts box and found a dual power supply adapter, which allows a single motherboard to power on 2 supplies at once. Tucking away the second connection left me with an effective extension cable just long enough to reach.

Finally, since the board took up most of the drive bays, the problem of where to mount the HDD was all that remained. Opening up the back side of the case I was amused to find a strip of velcro attached to the outside of the drive cage where I had obviously mounted an SSD in a previous build. After some more adhesive book covering to insulate against potential shorts, and another strip of velcro, everything was mounted and ready to boot!


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats crazy! im so gonna do that. if i had a quad core i could keep using that dell for gaming, and i fired my gt 630 so thats reason enough to upgrade my gpu. i just quit using it for gaming because well you know, a system that only supports 2 cores just dont cut it anymore. once i get my second job its so gonna happen.


You'll also have to cut the two black tabs in the socket off because the notches used for lining up the cpu's are different. And you may have to add the cpu's microcode into the bios.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Got around to upgrading my server today! I had my old Antec 900 II sitting around gathering dust and thought it would make a nice upgrade to the cardboard box I was previously running it on. Now, fitting a server board into an ATX case proved a little challenging, so some 'modifications' were in order.
> 
> The board actually reaches into the 5.25" bays at the front of the case, requiring some special mounting arrangements and a 92mm cooler on the CPU that sits partially under the drive cage. In order for the board to sit flat I had to hammer down the little tabs used for holding drives in place, then place a non conductive layer over the metal chassis. For this, I used clear adhesive book covering, as it stuck nicely to the surface, and was thin enough not to warp the board, but mainly since I had some lying around. A few plastic spacers were used where the screw holes didn't line up with the case, but surprisingly, most did.
> 
> I am using an old Dell 375W PSU since the system has little need for power beyond its two Xeon X5660 CPUs. Unfortunately, this unit is not a standard size and collides with the expansion slots when installed in this case. Fortunately, I found some longer screws lying around that allowed me to securely mount the supply about 10mm back from the rear of the case.
> 
> This mounting configuration proved rather useful as the 24-pin connector on the supply is tiny and requires an extension cable to reach the socket on the motherboard. Not wanting to buy anything to make this project work, I dug through my spare parts box and found a dual power supply adapter, which allows a single motherboard to power on 2 supplies at once. Tucking away the second connection left me with an effective extension cable just long enough to reach.
> 
> Finally, since the board took up most of the drive bays, the problem of where to mount the HDD was all that remained. Opening up the back side of the case I was amused to find a strip of velcro attached to the outside of the drive cage where I had obviously mounted an SSD in a previous build. After some more adhesive book covering to insulate against potential shorts, and another strip of velcro, everything was mounted and ready to boot!


Cool. You may be be able to use all-round or some other strapping to mount the hard drive with bolts and nuts(but that may be less ghetto)


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats crazy! im so gonna do that. if i had a quad core i could keep using that dell for gaming, and i fired my gt 630 so thats reason enough to upgrade my gpu. i just quit using it for gaming because well you know, a system that only supports 2 cores just dont cut it anymore. once i get my second job its so gonna happen.


It depends on the chipset if the 771 Xeon will work. The X38, X48, Q35, and Q45 chipsets most likely will not work.

You don't have to buy an adapter, it just makes things a heck of a lot easier and safer. I did it with foil and double sided tape to test a X5460 before the adapters came in.

Here's the threads for this mod:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1431723/mod-lga775-support-for-lga771-xeon-cpus/0_20
http://www.overclock.net/t/1427554/official-775-to-771-mod-club/0_20
And the article on delidded: http://www.delidded.com/lga-771-to-775-adapter/


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> Wall mount PC.
> Celeron M 370 OC from 1.5ghz to 1.9... (pin mod)
> 3gb DDR2
> 
> Old PSU was burning caps, so spliced on a full ATX PSU.
> 
> Duties:
> Music streamer...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> were did you find a motherboard that small? that thing is smaller than my mini dell. surprised it still works with a normal powersupply, the mini dell takes 3 12v lines and 4 grounds 1 remote line. if i ever repurposed that dell it would be in the car, and its bout useless because no expansion slots, lintel chipset graphics.
> but if i ever get my own car, or get some body to take me to the dmv so they will teach me how to drive, would make a nice replacement for a head unit.
Click to expand...

mini ITX ( MITX)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats crazy! im so gonna do that. if i had a quad core i could keep using that dell for gaming, and i fired my gt 630 so thats reason enough to upgrade my gpu. i just quit using it for gaming because well you know, a system that only supports 2 cores just dont cut it anymore. once i get my second job its so gonna happen.
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on the chipset if the 771 Xeon will work. The X38, X48, Q35, and Q45 chipsets most likely will not work.
> 
> You don't have to buy an adapter, it just makes things a heck of a lot easier and safer. I did it with foil and double sided tape to test a X5460 before the adapters came in.
> 
> Here's the threads for this mod:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1431723/mod-lga775-support-for-lga771-xeon-cpus/0_20
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1427554/official-775-to-771-mod-club/0_20
> And the article on delidded: http://www.delidded.com/lga-771-to-775-adapter/
Click to expand...

yea i was just gonna say most had to make their own


----------



## Powerg4

Ghetto Skype mic, look closely and you'll see the microphone.
Needed a skype mic and unfortunately the good headphones I already have don't have a mic on them, and I didn't want to go and buy another set just for the mic!

But I had a set of really cheap and nasty headphones (already broken) with built in mic lying around, the headphones were stuffed but the mic still worked. So I cut the microphone and cable off the rest of it and made this lovely artistic stand out of a broken hard drive and some other random bits and pieces.
Works very well at perfect head height and suprisingly clear on the skype test call!









(Sorry for the dark pic, if you can't see it properly just turn up the brightness on your monitor, worked for me!)


----------



## Torvi

not mine, found on facebook group. ahahah this dude is savage lmao


----------



## Torvi

mouse was too light


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> 
> mouse was too light


Careful not to short-circuit anything.


----------



## Powerg4

I like it









That rust should provide some solid insulation anyway haha!









In all seriousness though, yeah, maybe wrap them in duct tape or something, easy to burn out a usb port if it shorts.


----------



## Nukemaster

That has to be the first time I have seen a mouse with what looks like almost all the parts on the back of the board.

Hot glue, let it get a bit solid and stick that bolt right in suspended above the board.


----------



## RockeyDA

im doing another super ghetto woofer repair, and this time im taking lots of pics for instructables, see yah in a week or so. if i fail ile only post here, im trying to make a copper foil coil former to replace a paper one. the copper foil i have is thicker than the paper and my quest for cooling might result in coil rub.

and alittle taste of my progress.


----------



## Pawelr98

Notes:
-Not my idea to put the picture there
-I didn't buy this garbage glue
-I didn't purchase this picture(my brother did)

Glue was supposed to work after 30 minutes but even after 1 hour the thing was still moving.
Nobody would hold it for few hours so I came up with this.



After almost 4 hours the glue is still not working with full strength (still moves a bit but it holds the picture)


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

What kind and brand of glue is it so we can avoid it?


----------



## Nenkitsune

How's this for ghetto? Didn't want to buy a new case, but wanted a 240mm radiator.


----------



## billbartuska

Aw shucks. To late now, but why didn't you mount the rad with standoffs?


----------



## Nenkitsune

Cause i think that would look kinda funky. It also means the vrm components have active cooling since i have a 120 in my 5.25 bay and in the back pulling fresh air into the case. I have a lot of fans on this case now lol


----------



## AngryFuture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> were did you find a motherboard that small? that thing is smaller than my mini dell. surprised it still works with a normal powersupply, the mini dell takes 3 12v lines and 4 grounds 1 remote line. if i ever repurposed that dell it would be in the car, and its bout useless because no expansion slots, lintel chipset graphics.
> but if i ever get my own car, or get some body to take me to the dmv so they will teach me how to drive, would make a nice replacement for a head unit.


Its just a mITX board out of a old HP computer, the PSU that was with it was burned up. but it wired up wire for wire no issues. From what I could find it just a mini version of the normal 24pin ATX connector.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> were did you find a motherboard that small? that thing is smaller than my mini dell. surprised it still works with a normal powersupply, the mini dell takes 3 12v lines and 4 grounds 1 remote line. if i ever repurposed that dell it would be in the car, and its bout useless because no expansion slots, lintel chipset graphics.
> but if i ever get my own car, or get some body to take me to the dmv so they will teach me how to drive, would make a nice replacement for a head unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Its just a mITX board out of a old HP computer, the PSU that was with it was burned up. but it wired up wire for wire no issues. From what I could find it just a mini version of the normal 24pin ATX connector.
Click to expand...

As an asidse, AliExpress has those adapters for $2.50



...although that wouldn't count as ghetto anymore!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> What kind and brand of glue is it so we can avoid it?


Dragon Butapren


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Dragon *Butapren*


Sounds like a knock-off brand aspirin or something....


----------



## billbartuska

Well there's the problem...........


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Well there's the problem...........








































@ Pawelr98. Now that I'm through laughing my ample asset off (sorry), did you apply the glue to both the wall and the sign and let it dry before putting the sign on the wall? I looked it up and it says it is a contact adhesive. Most contact adhesives I've used wouldn't stick worth beans if I used them like a regular glue.


----------



## jodybdesigns

Got some sewing thread and 2 paper clips. Took about 2 feet of string and tied a paper clip to each end. Made some cable combs. It was kinda like lacing some shoes. It's botched but I love it lol

I think I will redo it with thicker string instead of normal sewing thread next time.


----------



## Nukemaster

Looks good.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jodybdesigns*
> 
> Got some sewing thread and 2 paper clips. Took about 2 feet of string and tied a paper clip to each end. Made some cable combs. It was kinda like lacing some shoes. It's botched but I love it lol
> 
> I think I will redo it with thicker string instead of normal sewing thread next time.


called cable sewing






looks great though ! just bet you didnt know it was a real thing !


----------



## Torvi

custom water cooling


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> custom water cooling
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You're using distilled, right?


----------



## Torvi

ofc


----------



## billbartuska

Dell Optiplex 755 with AMD "stock" dual heat pipe cooler.


----------



## TK421

Found this set of pics of a guy trying to fit 100w GPU + 920XM into an M15x

Cooling mod is required...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Source: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/new-and-improved-m15x-cpu-cooling-mod-guide-and-pictures.752797/

And here's one from my laptop, tried to extract the hot air from the exhaust. Dunno if it made a difference or not.


----------



## Nightfallx

I can't help but think most of these people that have Dell 745-780 has probably taken them off a retired pile from their work? lol


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightfallx*
> 
> I can't help but think most of these people that have Dell 745-780 has probably taken them off a retired pile from their work? lol


$20 - eBay.


----------



## MrSunshine

Started playing around with overclocking on my old Phenom X4 9950 BE, so far 3.2GHz stable from stock 2.6GHz .. tho the power supply on the motherboard ran a bit hot at 1.5V so it started throttling =) So i cut up an heatsink from an old northbridge and one from an old amd cpu and glued them on with thermal glue


----------



## Torvi

#heaterMasterRace lool







trying to cool down 9590 like a boss


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> #heaterMasterRace lool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> trying to cool down 9590 like a boss


Before and after results?


----------



## Torvi

sadly it's not mine :C


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> sadly it's not mine :C


This is a polish mod from 2006.
I remember reading the mod log few years ago.
http://forum.purepc.pl/topic/206254-passive-wc/


----------



## Torvi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> This is a polish mod from 2006.
> I remember reading the mod log few years ago.
> http://forum.purepc.pl/topic/206254-passive-wc/


wow 2006 that's ancient technology right now haha


----------



## Nenkitsune

Ill have to post a picture but i made a divider in my case between my gpu and the rest of the system. Has an intake strapped to the back of the fan to feed my gigabyte 970 g1 gaming, and an exhaust up front to extract the air. The divider makes it so the exhaust on front can pull air more directly from the gpu. Havent done any major heat tests yet but it should work good.

Sent from my SM-N910P using JellyBombed Tapatalk 2


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Torvi*
> 
> custom water cooling


Hahahah I don't know why but this just made my day!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

The current ghetto setup for my rig:

- Cross flow fan exhaust.
- Erector set pieces holding up the 3.5" multi card reader.
- Corsair H80i mounted where the HDD cage used to be. Holes drilled for airflow.
- Tape on fan LEDs to reduce the light reflecting out.
- Front of case behind front bezel painted black to reduce fan LED reflection. (not visible)
- Vdroop mod, potentiometer taped to NB heatsink. Wires secured with white tape.
- 50mm fan sitting next to VRM heatsink.



And the start of my wall art at work. Old AGP GPUs, IO bracket and drive platters. The low profile GPU is volt modded on the back and should still work. Also me ghetto editing out company related text XD.


----------



## billbartuska

I once decorated my workshop with motherboards, video cards, raid boards, etc. spray painted flat black. Kind of stunning.


----------



## Cyrious

Heres a ghetto airflow mod I did mainly for my secondary GPU. See, due to a malfunction of the second PCI-E slot, I was forced to put the card in the third slot so I could have a secondary GPU for a number of purposes. However, that location in this case comes with a few issues. For starters, its choked somewhat on air supply, as what air gets to it comes through the drives from a rather weak fan. On top of that, the air it does get ends up being partially re-cycled from the exhaust as it bleeds around from the end and gets sucked back in. The air that gets vented has nowhere to go, as there's no vent holes on the back near the 7th slot, and my PSU is not oriented right for its fan to do that job. All of this combined with the fact the heatsink is a cheap single slot aluminum blower job means that card can get uncomfortably hot.

So I got me some cardboard boxes, a box cutter, and some tape, and made me an air guide. Its function is to capture a not insignificant amount of the center intake fan's flow and funnel it into the GPU intakes. Hidden underneath the main sheet is a small piece of cardboard that basically blocks any airflow from flowing out the slots, forcing it to pass through the GPU fans. For the secondary GPU, to prevent the air from bleeding back, i stuffed a thin slice of cardboard between the heatsink shroud and the PSU, running from the motherboard all the way through the cardboard on top. The GPU exhaust has a large cutout in the cardboard above it running from the GPU PCB to the PSU casing, and it more or less wafts out from there. The second sheet from the drive cage (lower right hand, across from the PSU) funnels the drive cage air into it as well.

The result? Full load temps were cut by 11C, from 80C to 69C, and idle temps cut by 7C, from 50 to 43C.

If i get around to doing it, I am going to make an exhaust "plate" for the area where I stash my rig, and stick some well undervolted Deltas on it so instead of the waste heat building up in that cubby, it gets pulled through.


----------



## AngryFuture

My latest ghetto mods...
Xbox 360 needed more than 4gb of storage, so I chucked a external DVD-rw out of its enclosure and put a 40gb IDE HDD in its place.
Then to keep the 360 from cooking itself I double sided taped a thermaltake fan from a heatsink after I put a few drops of oil in the fan to free it up, it was pretty stiff. and shoved wired into the 3 pin connector and voila. Instant cooling for the 360.


----------



## Stige

Building a second PC from cheap/free parts and got a case for it that only has rear exhaust fan, and it was missing two of those front panel covers. So I took some cardboard and black duct tape and voila, holes are covered with a front intake fan now!
Isn't very pretty but works well enough, used superglue to stick the cardboard to the case. The fan I also used cost me 2,5€ new when I first built my custom loop.

Ghetto 'nuff?








Also covered the see-through blue plastic on the edges with black duct tape aswell for better looks!



For those curious build will be:
- CPU: i3-4130 (free)
- Mobo: AsRock H81M-VG4 (45€, bought as new)
- RAM: 2x4GB Corsair 1600MHz salvaged from my own PC (60€ new)
- SSD: Kingston 128GB SSDNow V+ (**)
- HDD: 2x250GB Seagate in RAID0 (**)
- GPU: Radeon R9 280X (150€)
- PSU: Corsair 550W, not sure of exact model yet, will have it in a day or two. (**)

** Paid 20€ total for these parts, including the case.
Ok~ish price for a good gaming PC considering the display is propably 1680x1050 for now atleast?







Should run fine at 1080p aswell.


----------



## Pawelr98

Building an electric bicycle myself.

This is more or less how the engine will look in final.
Currently waiting for chain tool and I will have to cut that metal plate a bit as it colides with the chain.

Other thing I wonder about is how that plastic gear on the engine will handle the load.
I couldn't find any metal gear that accepts bicycle chain and fits the engine.
The gear is from rear derailleur so it is used to long use but not high loads.
The will be two stages of speed reduction(engine rated speed is ~2800rpm). Engine gear is small and the chain carries the force to biggest gear in front derailleur.
Then the next chain will carry force from smallest gear in front derailleur to biggest gear in rear derailleur.
Hopefully the speed reduction will make the load on the engine's gear low enough to allow proper operation.

Main advantage of using stock derailleurs as speed reductors is lower cost.
Big disadvantage however is that the pedals will rotate with the engine running.
I plan to make a place to rest my legs on so that my legs won't increase engine load.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Are you going to have a built in charging system or just a battery that needs to be plugged in?


----------



## Nukemaster

Electric bike will be interesting to see.

It seems like a VERY fast motor(small gear should help) for the job so that is going to be interesting.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Are you going to have a built in charging system or just a battery that needs to be plugged in?


Plugged in battery.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Electric bike will be interesting to see.
> 
> It seems like a VERY fast motor(small gear should help) for the job so that is going to be interesting.


The motor rated speed is 2600-2850 RPM under load according to specs provided on the site I bought from.

I have seen plenty of electric bikes on youtube utilizing the same(usually 24V variant while mine is 36V) or similar engines.They are popular because they are very cheap compared to other options.

250W is not much but the bike will ride on flat roads so it should be enough to reach 30-ish km/h according to others experience.
However I want to keep this bike within the law(250W ,48V 25kmh max) so I should have 25km/h limit. I will rather use stock derailleur as with highest reduction ratio it slows down a lot (I used this setting for riding in sand).

After I finish the chain and the rest then I will have to buy batteries and put circuits together.
Two circuits. 36V for the engine will be activated by a relay. The control circuit(activating the relay) will run on 12V.
Control circuit will be responsible for powering on/shutting down the engine when needed. For example with braking.
Pressing the brake= no power on 12V control circuit=relay cuts off 36V line which stops the engine


----------



## Nukemaster

Looking forward to seeing this in action.


----------



## Nenkitsune

Chop the crank arms and add pegs on the rear horizontals just behind the chain ring so you can put your feet there. Might be a little awkward but at least you'll have a decent place to rest your feet.


----------



## billbartuska

Count the teeth on the sprockets, that giver the gear ratios.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Count the teeth on the sprockets, that giver the gear ratios.


Looks like the large sprocket is 50 tooth or so, the smaller 11. That's about 4.5:1, or 577 rpm at the crank at 2600 rpm on the motor.

This might work if pedal power is used to get up to speed, then the motor applied with a speed controller, but there's no way a plastic sprocket is going to launch from a standing start. Even applying power at speed will likely strip it since the motor will try to spin at its rated RPM/V (KV), regardless of bike speed.


----------



## Nukemaster

The rear sprocket will also have an effect.

Electric motors do have lots of power so it would be best to at least have the thing rolling before trying to start.

Maybe a PWM controller to soft start it and vary speed as needed.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> The rear sprocket will also have an effect.
> 
> Electric motors do have lots of power so it would be best to at least have the thing rolling before trying to start.
> 
> Maybe a PWM controller to soft start it and vary speed as needed.


I was thinking a throttle if sorts maybe make it use a knob type voltage control connected to something similar to a survive it motorcycle type throttle grip


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Count the teeth on the sprockets, that giver the gear ratios.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the large sprocket is 50 tooth or so, the smaller 11. That's about 4.5:1, or 577 rpm at the crank at 2600 rpm on the motor.
> 
> This might work if pedal power is used to get up to speed, then the motor applied with a speed controller, but there's no way a plastic sprocket is going to launch from a standing start. Even applying power at speed will likely strip it since the motor will try to spin at its rated RPM/V (KV), regardless of bike speed.
Click to expand...

I have counted the teeth before(but I don't remember now) and it was about as much as you say.

The plastic gear is one of concers I have.I didn't receive my chain tool today so probaly on monday or tuesday I will be able to do some checks with engine running on around 14V (car battery charger).
I already did some tests when I ghetto mounted the gear on the shaft. With the engine running on 14V I could hold the gear using pliers. The engine would stop(I didn't hold it for more than 3 seconds) and the gear was still in place. And it was not that easy to hold it so I think it may survive regular usage especially considering how easy it is to rotate the pedals on highest speed reduction.
Practical test will show if I'm right or not(I have a backup gear just in case).
If I had a welder then getting some proper metal gear would be much easier(welding a gear to the shaft).From time to time I do search for a metal gear that could fit the engine's shaft but so far without success.

As I wait for the chain tool I was doing research on battery prices to check what capacity gives the best value.
The best value is 20AH batteries. So right now I consider 3x 12V 20AH batteries in series. The weight of each is 5.5KG (according to product description on auction portal) so 16.5KG total.
This should give me very solid range. However my usual daily distance is going to be around 8KM(2x4KM).Big batteries on short distances won't be stressed much so even if I don't need that much capacity then I will buy them just for longevity.


----------



## Powerg4

Ok so not really a computer mod but still ghetto!
Basically the stereo in my car doesn't display the time (it's an old one and I have no instructions for it either)
$2 alarm clock and a block of wood fits perfect!


----------



## billbartuska




----------



## blooder11181

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*


email, bacon, and a portal from your childhood to adulthood in the middle....sigh nostalgia of smashing defenseless pots that somehow contained money and hearts...


----------



## billbartuska

You're quite the romantic.


----------



## Powerg4

Not quite sure I get the joke?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Not quite sure I get the joke?


on your air vent...for open and closed the open looks like three steps of bacon...and closed looks like the new mail/ email icon...in my post the hazard light symbol always reminds me of the legend of Zelda tri link symbol


----------



## Powerg4

Oh right now I get it hahah









Now that is attention to detail!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Oh right now I get it hahah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that is attention to detail!


i will say this that clock you used is way easier to see in any light it's annoying to look at the face of the radio and have to contort to see the time


----------



## Stige

This Gigabyte R9 280X has the tiny "backplate" for VRM too hot to touch so I tried to improve it a bit with some thermal paste and small heatsinks I had laying around, not sure if ghetto enuff. Still hot to touch







Stupid crap coolers...



The PSU is temporary, borrowed from a friend so the cables for it are a mess..


----------



## bajer29

I hope that's not GPU sag and just the angle you took the pic... even the mobo looks skewed.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I hope that's not GPU sag and just the angle you took the pic... even the mobo looks skewed.


Yeah it does look a bit weird, the GPU is sitting there nicely though. The rear is obviously a bit titled but so is every GPU really due to heavy weight coolers that don't even work well enough in this case


----------



## G33K

My old computer case before I built my Sig rig.

Bonus round:


Budget gopro stick from an old snow brush


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Well there's the problem...........


at fist glance my brain read it as "BUTRAPEN"
im asuming thats the joke?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> The current ghetto setup for my rig:
> 
> - Cross flow fan exhaust.
> - Erector set pieces holding up the 3.5" multi card reader.
> - Corsair H80i mounted where the HDD cage used to be. Holes drilled for airflow.
> - Tape on fan LEDs to reduce the light reflecting out.
> - Front of case behind front bezel painted black to reduce fan LED reflection. (not visible)
> - Vdroop mod, potentiometer taped to NB heatsink. Wires secured with white tape.
> - 50mm fan sitting next to VRM heatsink.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the start of my wall art at work. Old AGP GPUs, IO bracket and drive platters. The low profile GPU is volt modded on the back and should still work. Also me ghetto editing out company related text XD.
Click to expand...

that case seems so empty. im used to an abundance of weirs fans and large heat sinks.

how do you have so few cables in your case? are they stuffed under your drive bay or something?


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> that case seems so empty. im used to an abundance of weirs fans and large heat sinks.
> 
> how do you have so few cables in your case? are they stuffed under your drive bay or something?


You can always visit the Cable Management thread or some build logs to see examples.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> that case seems so empty. im used to an abundance of weirs fans and large heat sinks.
> 
> how do you have so few cables in your case? are they stuffed under your drive bay or something?


The sheet of metal at the top covers the power supply and wires. It's a rat's nest behind that. If I didn't move the hard drives the case would be filled with wires. I should get some longer sata cables so I can tuck them behind the motherboard.

My case has this giant circular cut out on the side panel. I wonder how it would look if I replaced it with modders mesh or something and mounted a 240mm rad above the CPU/motherboard, blowing down on it. The VRM runs really hot, like 80C hot under full load, and that NB fan is loud. A single 120mm won't be enough to cool them and the CPU.

I'll get a pic of the side panel when I get home.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Notes:
> -Not my idea to put the picture there
> -I didn't buy this garbage glue
> -I didn't purchase this picture(my brother did)
> 
> Glue was supposed to work after 30 minutes but even after 1 hour the thing was still moving.
> Nobody would hold it for few hours so I came up with this.
> 
> 
> 
> After almost 4 hours the glue is still not working with full strength (still moves a bit but it holds the picture)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> What kind and brand of glue is it so we can avoid it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Dragon Butapren


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Well there's the problem...........


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> at fist glance my brain read it as "BUTRAPEN"
> im asuming thats the joke?


There you go... the whole back-story.


----------



## Pawelr98

I received my chain tool today.

The chain was falling after about 2 seconds of operation. The chain was bit too loose.Rather small teeth makes the chain unstable.
The problem with chain is that you can only remove 2n segments while I need to remove only one segment to make it tight,

So I think I will have to search for another(this time a proper one) gear.
I already have a gear from old bicycle. Only problem is hole diameter. Good thing about it is that the hole is square-ish.
The shaft of the engine has ~8mm diameter. I will check what is the outer diameter of M8 nut. If it locks within the new gear hole then the whole thing will be easy.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I received my chain tool today.
> 
> The chain was falling after about 2 seconds of operation. The chain was bit too loose.Rather small teeth makes the chain unstable.
> The problem with chain is that you can only remove 2n segments while I need to remove only one segment to make it tight,
> 
> So I think I will have to search for another(this time a proper one) gear.
> I already have a gear from old bicycle. Only problem is hole diameter. Good thing about it is that the hole is square-ish.
> The shaft of the engine has ~8mm diameter. I will check what is the outer diameter of M8 nut. *If it locks within the new gear hole then the whole thing will be easy*.


Was that a pun?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> The sheet of metal at the top covers the power supply and wires. It's a rat's nest behind that. If I didn't move the hard drives the case would be filled with wires. I should get some longer sata cables so I can tuck them behind the motherboard.
> 
> My case has this giant circular cut out on the side panel. I wonder how it would look if I replaced it with modders mesh or something and mounted a 240mm rad above the CPU/motherboard, blowing down on it. The VRM runs really hot, like 80C hot under full load, and that NB fan is loud. A single 120mm won't be enough to cool them and the CPU.
> 
> I'll get a pic of the side panel when I get home.


i live in america, mm means nothing to me as i see it so rarely. so that like 4" or what?
also rpm's of fans?

also hear this weekend i should begetting my new amp (1500wrms 1ohm on14.4v), and how i run it will be ghettofabulus(i was borrowing the 14.4v power supply and the 600w amp.)
im pretty shure this amp can run 16v, and i saw 2 seprate benches of this amp hitting over 3000wrms on .5 ohm on 14.4v so im not gonna need a bigger amp for a while.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> ...i live in america, mm means nothing to me as i see it so rarely. so that like 4" or what?...


The rest of the world uses the metric system so you may as well get familiar with it. A general rule of thumb for making a rough conversion between inches and millimeters is 25mm is a hair under 1"; close enough to 1" to just call it that in most cases. A good and easy to use free program for converting between various units of measures, including between the antiquated English system used here in the U.S. and the metric system, is Converber.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Even in the USA mm is used everywhere. I haven't needed a US size tool in years, other than screw drivers. 120mm is what most computer case fans are. 120mm is barely under 4 3/4".

EDIT:

Here's my side panel. There's just enough room for a 240 (9.5") radiator above the CPU.


----------



## Powerg4

That side panel looks too nice to be ghetto!








Quite a nice looking case actually


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i live in america, mm means nothing to me as i see it so rarely. so that like 4" or what?
> also rpm's of fans?
> 
> also hear this weekend i should begetting my new amp (1500wrms 1ohm on14.4v), and how i run it will be ghettofabulus(i was borrowing the 14.4v power supply and the 600w amp.)
> im pretty shure this amp can run 16v, and i saw 2 seprate benches of this amp hitting over 3000wrms on .5 ohm on 14.4v so im not gonna need a bigger amp for a while.


Dude, everything that has to do with computer hardware is decimals! The plan was by 1980 to switch to the metric system. We managed to screw that up just like everything else. The metric system is superior in every way.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Dude, everything that has to do with computer hardware is decimals! The plan was by 1980 to switch to the metric system. We managed to screw that up just like everything else. The metric system is superior in every way.


Not in europe. I have few cases that use M3 screws instead of imperial 6 .. something, in EU also motherboard standoffs often use metric threading instead of imperial. And to be honest, it's a bit annoying sometimes that one has to guess which friking screw is fitting into that particular hole - I'm not particularly bothered if the screw i have measures in full millimeters or some fraction of these (being imperial) but what I do care for is that it should be standardized.


----------



## Stige

Every screw in the past 10 years atleast when it comes to PCs has been what it should have been, I have never had this issue of some screw being non-standard, not in EU anyway.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Every screw in the past 10 years atleast when it comes to PCs has been what it should have been, I have never had this issue of some screw being non-standard, not in EU anyway.


Both metric and imperial screws are technically "standard". For me about third of the cases I have used have used metric threaded screws in some places. Particularly, for example, Skarkoon cases. Then again I order stuff from Germany on regular basis because the selection of some components in Estonia is not as good as I would like and to be frank - it would not surprise me too much at some point if they would give up imperial even for water cooling so stuff made in Germany would end up coming, for example with M12 threaded connectors instead of G1/4''. At least so far German brands like Alphacool and Phoyba still use imperial connections for water cooling







Then again most US brands have managed to move over to metric fan spacing on their radiators using 15mm standard pacing instead of 1''.


----------



## chrisjames61

I can't for the life of me understand why everything in the year 2016 isn't metric. I have to have two sets of socket wrenches, box wrenches. What a pita! Funny thing is that at the large engineering firm where I work many of our Swiss machines and German made equipment has both metric and Imperial, screws, bolts, hex heads etc...


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

The pity of it is that, even if the U.S. were to officially adopt the metric system immediately and require all future manufacturing be compliant, I would still need English system tools, hardware, and other parts for the rest of my life since so many existing items using the English system will still be around.


----------



## seanzylol

midtower case from the early 2000 with a modded h100i. Hey it works until i can afford better. Also psu only had 2 6 pins and i dint have a adapter but i had a 8 pin cable off of a old psu so i just wired that **** myself ;p Yes thats deltas you see btw


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i live in america, mm means nothing to me as i see it so rarely. so that like 4" or what?
> also rpm's of fans?
> 
> also hear this weekend i should begetting my new amp (1500wrms 1ohm on14.4v), and how i run it will be ghettofabulus(i was borrowing the 14.4v power supply and the 600w amp.)
> im pretty shure this amp can run 16v, and i saw 2 seprate benches of this amp hitting over 3000wrms on .5 ohm on 14.4v so im not gonna need a bigger amp for a while.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Dude, everything that has to do with computer hardware is decimals! The plan was by 1980 to switch to the metric system. We managed to screw that up just like everything else. The metric system is superior in every way.


well my tape measures and most of my tools are in imperial. when im mounting a power supply i grab the 1/4" nut driver, or #2 philips, but thats american as well. i have only used pozidriv on an old european oscilloscope, and metric nuts on foreign cars. so im really used to my imperial.

although something strange. my cheaper cooler master cooler = imperial hex bit, my v8 cooler =metric hex bit, this is a problem as i do not have metric bits.

and to my earlyr post, i got my amp, the 100 amp 14.4 psu only keeps up at low volumes. so im defiantly going to run off of the car batteries i have stashed behind my washer/tv stand. now i just got to hook it up. also i almost melted what was basicly a cut up extension cord after 1 low hitting song. i might actually need 1 gauge wire for this. but i blew out my sound card so that gets my $ and im just gonna cut more cables and double up.
power input is kinda big


----------



## RnRollie

we DO welcome you in our fold......









these are the three countries who don't use the metric system: Liberia, Myanmar and of course, the United States of America.



Resistance is futile any ways...









But the worst part of it is, is that the US has DIFFERENT "imperial" measures as the UK.... US Gallons vs ImpGallons , acres, etc fro example


----------



## bajer29

You say resistance if futile, yet the US has been refusing to use the metric system for over century in everyday life since 1866 when it was authorized for use in medical fields and scientific applications. Crazy. I'd say the US is resisting and will continue whether it's pointless or not, because America.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> You say resistance if futile, yet the US has been refusing to use the metric system for over century in everyday life since 1866 when it was authorized for use in medical fields and scientific applications. Crazy. I'd say the US is resisting and will continue whether it's pointless or not, because America.


The U.S. is resisting but not very effectually. Pretty much everything I own has something metric in it, if it isn't all metric.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The U.S. is resisting but not very effectually. Pretty much everything I own has something metric in it, if it isn't all metric.


that's because a large portion of our products are manufactured and assembled elsewhere....which means metric for most things...it's aggravating to work on cars these days because a lot of them contain metric and standard do your always switching...bleh


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The U.S. is resisting but not very effectually. Pretty much everything I own has something metric in it, if it isn't all metric.
> 
> 
> 
> that's because a large portion of our products are manufactured and assembled elsewhere....which means metric for most things...it's aggravating to work on cars these days because a lot of them contain metric and standard do your always switching...bleh
Click to expand...

Exactly. Personally, I wish we had switched back during the Carter administration but that attempt never went through. Now, at my age, I would not see the benefits of switching in my lifetime.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Exactly. Personally, I wish we had switched back during the Carter administration but that attempt never went through. Now, at my age, I would not see the benefits of switching in my lifetime.


IIRC in the mid 1970's when I was in junior high we were gearing up for the switch. Then it kind of went by the wayside.


----------



## mr squishy

Can we stay on topic please? I'm here to see ghetto mods, not watch the thread be spammed by measurement arguments.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> IIRC in the mid 1970's when I was in junior high we were gearing up for the switch. Then it kind of went by the wayside.


Yeah, in 1975 Congress passed legislation to implement the International System of Units (SI metric system. Many things were changed to metric and it was slowly progressing with all highway signage to be in both units by 2000, but was dropped inl 1998, Anyone in the military uses metric daily. USA is not one of only 3 countries in the world not using metric; the other two are Myanmar (Burma) and Liberia.

I've used both for most of my life and convert in my head all the time. 25.4mm is 1 inch, 6mm = 1/4", 13mm is 1/2", 100mm = 4" 1440mm is 4', etc. I do custom woodwork and it is much easier to avoid measurement problems using metric than inches. My biggest problem is finding tape measures in all metric. Most are metric on one edge and inches on other .. like a ruler. While this is okay for framing a house, it is very hard to make accurate measurements when metric is on wrong edge.


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Can we stay on topic please? I'm here to see ghetto mods, not watch the thread be spammed by measurement arguments.


+ 1


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> + 1


After all the hijacking you have done here you make that post? 'Pot calling kettle' comes to mind.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Can we stay on topic please? I'm here to see ghetto mods, not watch the thread be spammed by measurement arguments.


agreed but a ghetto mod created in inches still may be converted to mm if done in another country


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> agreed but a ghetto mod created in inches still may be converted to mm if done in another country


No! No! The minority must adapt to majority. Any mod in inches must be converted to mm so the majority of world can understand.


----------



## RnRollie

if you take ghetto seriously... you should NOT use inches or mm.. but something a lot more obscure... like el, or perches or cubits or parsecs or kellicams








Actually, if you ghettomod, you should use your own units.. like *"this panel is 5 times the height of the "world best dad" coffeecup my kid made in kindergarten*"...


----------



## bajer29

I use my second phalanges of my pointer finger. Is there a way to make this a universal measurement?


----------



## G33K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> if you take ghetto seriously... you should NOT use inches or mm.. but something a lot more obscure... like el, or perches or cubits or parsecs or kellicams
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, if you ghettomod, you should use your own units.. like *"this panel is 5 times the height of the "world best dad" coffeecup my kid made in kindergarten*"...


I am now going to tell people I have a 3.8889e-18 parsec fan on my Hyper 212.


----------



## Cyrious

Problem: Passive Tesla M2050
Problem: No zip ties
Solution: Use wire and tie the fans to each other and then to the card's heatplate. Works like a charm, but getting all of the fans hooked up is a bit of a pain.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> Problem: Passive Tesla M2050
> Problem: No zip ties
> Solution: Use wire and tie the fans to each other and then to the card's heatplate. Works like a charm, but getting all of the fans hooked up is a bit of a pain.


Cool ghetto mods. I used to do that on my old Powercolor Radeon 9000 passive heatsink with Pentium 1 fan. Sadly back then I don't have any camera.

Since you are Tesla user I always wonder since the card have display out ports, how does it handle games? What do you use it for?


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Cool ghetto mods. I used to do that on my old Powercolor Radeon 9000 passive heatsink with Pentium 1 fan. Sadly back then I don't have any camera.
> 
> Since you are Tesla user I always wonder since the card have display out ports, how does it handle games? What do you use it for?


Actually the older teslas do not have working video out. Yeah, the connector is there, but the circuitry linking the GPU to it doesnt work. Since its literally just an underclocked GTX 470, I suspect that if it did work that way it'd handle like one.

As for what I use it for, if I can get around to finding a suitable rig to install it in via that attached riser cable, I can use it for distributed computing. I *could* install it into my main rig, it will run on a single 8-pin, but then I run the risk of overloading my PSU if I go full power on it.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> if you take ghetto seriously... you should NOT use inches or mm.. but something a lot more obscure... like el, or perches or cubits or parsecs or kellicams
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, if you ghettomod, you should use your own units.. like *"this panel is 5 times the height of the "world best dad" coffeecup my kid made in kindergarten*"...


Now you are talking! We will now use the WBD unit of measure.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyrious*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Problem: Passive Tesla M2050
> Problem: No zip ties
> Solution: Use wire and tie the fans to each other and then to the card's heatplate. Works like a charm, but getting all of the fans hooked up is a bit of a pain.


Your fan system happens on most all of my GPUs.










Now it's cooler and quieter.


----------



## Cyrious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Now you are talking! We will now use the WBD unit of measure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your fan system happens on most all of my GPUs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's cooler and quieter.


Lol, except for the quieter part and the fact these are full depth 80mm fans, which means that installed in an x16 slot the card takes up 4 slots. Its why theres a PCI-E riser attached to it as well. I'd like to be able to install a normal stock nvidia heatsink on it, but the problem is that the fan header doesnt exist and the leads going up to it have components that were never installed. Going third party has similar issues and has the additional issue that I need a heatplate or heatsinks for the backside vram chips, and a heatplate for the front.

This card is a bit of a PITA to use.


----------



## obikenobi27

If measurement is really that important, everybody should measure in bananas, square bananas, and cubic bananas.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I wonder, how did people know exactly what 1" was way back?

Now we can use light or sound as a static measurement to base distance off of.


----------



## RnRollie

they didn't, which is why inch = width of thumb.. which is in general more or less the same for most adults... not 100% accurate, but close enough... and in case of disputes.... long long long time ago, some were based on what the local king/ruler/emperor/demi-god declared... like his thumb or his foot....

in more recent history, 1" was what remained of you after Chuck Norris roundhouse kicked you through a wall....


----------



## RockeyDA

im making progress,and i think im gonna use some scrap wood to make a amp rack for the other amps.







my power cable is super ghetto, random speaker wire and power cords doubld up.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> they didn't, which is why inch = width of thumb.. which is in general more or less the same for most adults... not 100% accurate, but close enough... and in case of disputes.... long long long time ago, some were based on what the local king/ruler/emperor/demi-god declared... like his thumb or his foot....
> 
> in more recent history, 1" was what remained of you after Chuck Norris roundhouse kicked you through a wall....


And all this time I thought it was Bruce Lee who left 1" remaining.

Learn something every day.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I wonder, how did people know exactly what 1" was way back?
> 
> Now we can use light or sound as a static measurement to base distance off of.


this topic is getting old, this is last of it for me, light has different colors witch are on different wave lengths, so different color different size.

now reply to my other post, i get the point, most people like metric but some dont.
i was only saying im not used to it not starting a war.

*edit*
my bad, i miss read this as making a unit of measurement based on light waves.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> IIRC in the mid 1970's when I was in junior high we were gearing up for the switch. Then it kind of went by the wayside.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, in 1975 Congress passed legislation to implement the International System of Units (SI metric system. Many things were changed to metric and it was slowly progressing with all highway signage to be in both units by 2000, but was dropped inl 1998, Anyone in the military uses metric daily. USA is not one of only 3 countries in the world not using metric; the other two are Myanmar (Burma) and Liberia.
> 
> I've used both for most of my life and convert in my head all the time. 25.4mm is 1 inch, 6mm = 1/4", 13mm is 1/2", 100mm = 4" 1440mm is 4', etc. I do custom woodwork and it is much easier to avoid measurement problems using metric than inches. My biggest problem is finding tape measures in all metric. Most are metric on one edge and inches on other .. like a ruler. While this is okay for framing a house, it is very hard to make accurate measurements when metric is on wrong edge.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem, I had to go to China to fix it.....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I had the same problem, I had to go to China to fix it.....


I met a nice German guy and he sent me some all metric measuring tapes, framing square, etc.


----------



## billbartuska

,,,nothing metric here.

Beginnings of a "wall computer".


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> ,,,nothing metric here.
> 
> Beginnings of a "wall computer".


right now it's a pile pc


----------



## Nenkitsune

Does this count as ghetto? Built my own racing cockpit. I dont build stuff with wood but its rock solid and the main bases are square. It wouldve looked nicer if i had a circular saw. Did it with a hand saw and screws. At least i had a power drill lol


----------



## billbartuska

What??? You forgot the cup holder!!!!


----------



## Nenkitsune

I'm too broke for that! haha I could add one in if I really wanted to.


----------



## Jimbags

We in Australia use both.But our standard is metric. We swapped over in the late 60's i think. Around the time we switched from pounds to decimal dollars and cents.
We import alot of machinery though so its a mix off both.
Like mack trucks we have at work are imperial. But the German cranes are metric.


----------



## RockeyDA

my 15w flaot charger is having a hell of a time with those truck batteries. they were 12.5v after 48hr whent to 12.7, my charger holds car batteries @ 13.6v. im worried this will take weeks to charge and hours to drain.


----------



## Nukemaster

Those small chargers are for maintaining larger batteries(just keep them topped off when not in use) and charging/maintaining smaller ones









Guess you will need to find something a bit bigger.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Grab a large generator, I'm sure someone has one in your area they're getting rid of that works.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> What??? You forgot the cup holder!!!!


Silly PC user... that's what a spare CD ROM drive is for...


----------



## Mega Man

I don't think I will ever forget that script from that call center.....


----------



## NateTheRetroGuy

A massive tangle of wires that is my PC setup.. I need new hardware, bad. The case is fine though, I like it.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## billbartuska

You upgraded?


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> You upgraded?


jesus christ. Why would you have that ancient thing lol.


----------



## NateTheRetroGuy

Yes I did, but I still love my C64 hehe

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateTheRetroGuy*
> 
> Yes I did, but I still love my C64 hehe
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I raise you this...


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanzylol*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> You upgraded?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jesus christ. Why would you have that ancient thing lol.
Click to expand...

Because.. whenever one sits in front of it, one can pretend to be Matthew Broderick (with a mild chance of banging Ally Sheedy)

and whoever doesn't get THAT reference... then booo! go learn you classics























PS: yes, i know he used an IMSAI, not a C64 :0


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

And I raise you two 3.5" floppy drives (still have my old C64c although the PSU is dead).


----------



## rgrwng

whoa. joysticks used to look so phallic back in the day.


----------



## RnRollie

THAT joystick is probably 10 years "younger" as the C64... i guess its i486DX2 or Pentium era


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I got no joy from joysticks. The took up two much space and generally required two hands to use. I had a tiny wiggle stick I attached to the side of my keyboard that worked better than a joystick; I could easily use it with one fingertip.


----------



## NateTheRetroGuy

And then there is me with my C64 and my modern computer, as well as my Amiga 500

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## -Leopold-

Acid GPU Hotglue & Santa-Lighter Mod for my case mod project

First 2 layers black added


Add some "Acid-like damaged-Effect"


Add some hot glue for a 3d-effect


colored the glue with the first layer yellow


Next time better use yellow hot glue. I'm sure you can buy pre-colored glue somewhere.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> Acid GPU Hotglue & Santa-Lighter Mod for my case mod project
> 
> First 2 layers black added
> 
> 
> Add some "Acid-like damaged-Effect"
> 
> 
> Add some hot glue for a 3d-effect
> 
> 
> colored the glue with the first layer yellow
> 
> 
> Next time better use yellow hot glue. I'm sure you can buy pre-colored glue somewhere.


This should help...

http://www.glu-stix.com/shop/page/product_detail/Product/fb0b4d59985ae8236008a910bf5e9a34.html


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> Acid GPU Hotglue & Santa-Lighter Mod for my case mod project
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First 2 layers black added
> 
> 
> Add some "Acid-like damaged-Effect"
> 
> 
> Add some hot glue for a 3d-effect
> 
> 
> colored the glue with the first layer yellow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next time better use yellow hot glue. I'm sure you can buy pre-colored glue somewhere.


If it's nice it ain't gettho...

It's nicely done...


----------



## -Leopold-

Too late


----------



## Tisser12

Little late to the party but shortly after I built my rig I wanted lights in it but didn't have any extra funds to spend, so I rigged up the old sound activated LED tubes I had from my car to be wired into a fan connector.. Turned out looking really nice, but having 12ft of extra wire coiled up in the bottom of my case and a cracked-open cigarette lighter adapter electrical taped to a 3 pin fan power for the power/controller was a little less than ideal haha. I will be purchasing some RGBW LED stripping on ebay shortly with a real 12v sound activated power adapter/controller with a remote.





Also
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Leopold-*
> 
> Too late










nice job dude that looks awesome!


----------



## RockeyDA

So my ghetto setup dose not pull enough power for my sundown, but one of my friends let me barrow there 50amp batt charger and i got 'er up to 13.6v and combined that with my 750wrms alpine trype R and i was easily able to bottom it out.

so this is my alpine full tilt.


----------



## Nukemaster

RockeyDA, Did you get to finish that speaker rebuild?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> RockeyDA, Did you get to finish that speaker rebuild?


the copper coil? im ready to start soldering and gluing just have been lazy. if i stick to it i could have it done in 2 days.
honestly thanks for reminding me, i did forget i was doing that.
and if i did not have to wait for epoxy to dry it wold take a few hours.


----------



## DR4G00N

Needed better cooling to push the voltage sky high on one of my volt modded HD 4850's.








(Seeing as direct touch heatpipe coolers don't work so well direct-die I took the IHS from my A8-3870K, sanded down the back so it makes good contact with the die and hot glued it in place).







Went from 800MHz core @ 1.33V VCore / Max 75c @ 70% fan - Stock cooler,

To 920MHz core @ 1.51V VCore / Max 45c - Hyper 212+. <- This cools 5c better than the Gelid Icy-vision that I have on my other 4850.


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Needed better cooling to push the voltage sky high on one of my volt modded HD 4850's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Seeing as direct touch heatpipe coolers don't work so well direct-die I took the IHS from my A8-3870K, sanded down the back so it makes good contact with the die and hot glued it in place).
> 
> Went from 800MHz core @ 1.33V VCore / Max 75c @ 70% fan - Stock cooler,
> 
> To 920MHz core @ 1.51V VCore / Max 45c - Hyper 212+. <- This cools 5c better than the Gelid Icy-vision that I have on my other 4850.


I'm running a hyper 212 evo and I love it. I don't OC much (yet) but I know that she'll deff be helpful when/if I do. That's one heck of an OC dude! I refuse to mess with voltages yet because I don't know enough, but I will eventually, I'm sure.

Idk if this is considered "ghetto" enough for this thread, but I installed some generic UV LED strips into my case, wired into a controller that has a remote to adjust brightness and a few dynamic modes. I plan on adding some RGBW stripping with a sound-controller as well.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

i made this LM317 fan controller from scrap parts what you guys think GETTO??


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> I'm running a hyper 212 evo and I love it. I don't OC much (yet) but I know that she'll deff be helpful when/if I do. That's one heck of an OC dude! I refuse to mess with voltages yet because I don't know enough, but I will eventually, I'm sure.
> 
> Idk if this is considered "ghetto" enough for this thread, but I installed some generic UV LED strips into my case, wired into a controller that has a remote to adjust brightness and a few dynamic modes. I plan on adding some RGBW stripping with a sound-controller as well.


Yeah, it's not a bad heatsink at all.

Though I encountered a new problem, the VRM's get extremely hot (Like hot enough to make the hot glue on the back of the card tacky again) and it shuts off.
I kind of expected that though since I'm just using tiny aluminium heatsinks attached with regular double sided tape. So I will cut the VRM heatsink section off of the stock cooler and use it instead.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> i made this LM317 fan controller from scrap parts what you guys think GETTO??


Man that is gonna get warn running lots of fans at 5 volts







(then again Zalman used 7805's for a fan controller with much smaller heatsinks). Switching would be ideal for this, but not as diy friendly.
250 volt cap, you are ready for anything


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Man that is gonna get warn running lots of fans at 5 volts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (then again Zalman used 7805's for a fan controller with much smaller heatsinks). Switching
> would be ideal for this, but not as diy friendly.
> 250 volt cap, you are ready for anything


HEHE Ummm im just running one fan on the controller... but it gets abit warm seeing the lm317 maxes out at 1.5amp ill switch over to a LM338 Which is rated at 5amps... I'm running it at 12v out put is some where around 11.5


----------



## RockeyDA

ok so for the most part my project is done, tomrrow i take er for a test run.
pics of progress. also jbweald is rated for over 500F while most epoxies seem to be under 200F so im sticking with JB weld.








vvvvv I took this pick before i mixed the glue to show how i apply it. vvvvv






Tomarrow i give it a test on the ohm meter, then hot glue terminals back on basket, then see how much power it will take untill it starts to bottum out. if i approve of its sound i glue a duscap on it and throw it in the box i found it in.


----------



## -Leopold-

Leopold's Do-It-Yourself-Headset:

Perhaps you know the problem: You want to have a headset. but you already have good headphones and you don't want to change them because you like the sound quality.
So heres my solution:

What you need:

Lavalier microphone
headphones
tape
cardboard or something like that
a magnet
a piece of metal (magnetic), i used a old part of an hdd tray
hot glue

The Materials:


I used a part of a tactical vest, basically it is textile with cardboard. Cut it into a matching piece and tape it.


glue the magnet onto it


In my case the part of the hdd tray was a way to big, use a dremel or somthing like that to cut it


Glue it onto your headphones


put it together. The end.


----------



## RockeyDA

PROJECT UPDATE,
Its Xmax and Excursion are vary close and not in a good way. after a little less than half an inch of movement the coil claps off of a metal plait on top of the motor, if i knew this would of happend i would of tried removing the plait from the motor or droping the coil more.
i actuly raised the coil hight alittle to try and make it it have a large excursion without bottoming out.
although it might not be my falt, one of my firedns has a woofer that was part of the pair of the one i pulled the motor from and he said it has the same problem... if so why the hell is there a metal plate on top of the pole.
im gonna try a and see if i can come up with something and if not i will make a vid on the outcome soon.

this really bugs me though, my goal was to turn a cheep dead woofer into something that can handle alot of power using scraps.
well in the end at least i know this woofer wont blow and i can give it away (did the same thing with the kicker sub.)


----------



## Nukemaster

So the JBweld is holding up. I wondered if it would be too brittle for this.


----------



## beezweeky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Because.. whenever one sits in front of it, one can pretend to be Matthew Broderick (with a mild chance of banging Ally Sheedy)
> 
> and whoever doesn't get THAT reference... then booo! go learn you classics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: yes, i know he used an IMSAI, not a C64 :0


War Games, lol, definitely one of my favorite childhood movies







!!!!


----------



## kivikas14

Looks ghetto, functional, but ghetto.  
As I'm currently living abroad - I don't have access to my handy tools to fabricate ghetto bracket out of aluminum. So the full ghetto-mode kicked in.








I hope that somebody would get a good laugh out of it, because I sure do every time I open the case









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



It didn't fit to the rear of the CPU cooler, even with CPU cooler fan removed (would have had to cut/bend some of the cooler fins - didn't want to). And tubes were too short to put it elsewhere.


----------



## Nukemaster

I like it.

If you have a dead fan or 2 you can gut them and use that to hold the radiator in place. It would be less ghetto tho so watch out.


----------



## RockeyDA

Yes the JB weald is still holding,and i knew it would, jb weald for a long time has been holding the grip to the barrel of my shotgun.
so, finaly got my laptop up and running agin, and im using a different LCD, i had replace both the back light and the back light transformer. but some one replaced the back light before i got to it, and when i went to pull back the plastic to tuck the light in the lcd was not properly secured, it bent and broke the seals around the edges.
this really sucks as this is one of the best lcd's i have ever seen and now its got a degrading picture. and its a 16:10 version of 1080p, every inspiron or latitude i ever seen was a 16:10 version of 1024x768
and it having a defuse screen looks way better than the glossy ones you see on the newer mac books.
but anyway new lcd ment i needed to shove more logos on it, and buying a amp and sub meant i have some car window decals.


and that lcd im going to hate giving up. im gonna use it until i find it unusable.



between work and sleep there are not enough hours in a day.


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Yes the JB weald is still holding,and i knew it would, jb weald for a long time has been holding the grip to the barrel of my shotgun.
> so, finaly got my laptop up and running agin, and im using a different LCD, i had replace both the back light and the back light transformer. but some one replaced the back light before i got to it, and when i went to pull back the plastic to tuck the light in the lcd was not properly secured, it bent and broke the seals around the edges.
> this really sucks as this is one of the best lcd's i have ever seen and now its got a degrading picture. and its a 16:10 version of 1080p, every inspiron or latitude i ever seen was a 16:10 version of 1024x768
> and it having a defuse screen looks way better than the glossy ones you see on the newer mac books.
> but anyway new lcd ment i needed to shove more logos on it, and buying a amp and sub meant i have some car window decals.
> 
> 
> and that lcd im going to hate giving up. im gonna use it until i find it unusable.
> 
> 
> 
> between work and sleep there are not enough hours in a day.


good taste on the decals. Sundown is literally one of my favorite audio companies lol.


----------



## Asymmetry

Found a 52mm 22 gauge Rheodyne valve needle the ideal tool for straightening out CPU pins. The needle has a 22 gauge opening and a flat end (unlike a medical needle) that is just large enough to take in pin. This X2 was rattling around my desk draw for some time until I actually needed it.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> Found a 52mm 22 gauge Rheodyne valve needle the ideal tool for straightening out CPU pins. The needle has a 22 gauge opening and a flat end (unlike a medical needle) that is just large enough to take in pin. This X2 was rattling around my desk draw for some time until I actually needed it.


Too awesome to be ghetto. My eyes first saw something on a stripboard









Can that also fix up Intel LGA pins?


----------



## Asymmetry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Too awesome to be ghetto. My eyes first saw something on a stripboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can that also fix up Intel LGA pins?


Haven't tried LGA pins, practiced on a p4 first.

With LGA might need bit of practice to straighten pins along the length. Spot the bent pins by constantly rotating CPU, they show up really clearly.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> Found a 52mm 22 gauge Rheodyne valve needle the ideal tool for straightening out CPU pins. The needle has a 22 gauge opening and a flat end (unlike a medical needle) that is just large enough to take in pin. This X2 was rattling around my desk draw for some time until I actually needed it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thats awsome, i wish i had one, also what cpu socket is that? im used to the center being a square of caps, that has pins everywere!


----------



## Pawelr98

A little update on my electric bike.

I welded new gear to original gear. Looks bad(my first experience with welding is last monday) but does the job.

In the process one teeth melted a bit but angle grinder fixed it. Also I had to grind all the teeth because they were too thick(teeth not going into chain).
With new gear it works better but there are still some problems. The chain is too loose.
While it does work for few seconds (small success) then the chain falls.
I will have to do something to keep the chain tension high enough. I already tested what happens if the tensions is higher.
I was holding the chain with my hand(it was bit painful) and started rotationg the pedals. The chain was not falling anymore.
So to do :
-further grinding of the teeth to avoid chain locking up(still happens but very rarely)
-mechanism to keep the tension(probaly adapted gear changer) of the chain
-a place to rest the legs on
-a place for batteries
-making the gear more stable (still moves slightly)


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats awsome, i wish i had one, also what cpu socket is that? im used to the center being a square of caps, that has pins everywere!


Something AM2 or newer.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Something AM2 or newer.


ahh, i quit using amd after they started using there own socket, i had a few socket "A" bords but the amd cpus always died on me so i was like NOPE and kinda forgot they existed.

did amd ever making a high quality server cpu like the xeons?
i never had a xeon die so i try to only use them now.


----------



## Nukemaster

AMD had Server CPUs(Athlon 64 based Opterons) that crushed Intel for a good while(in the Pentium 4 era). They did wake the sleeping giant Intel and have never quite got to that point since. They still offer some good value for some systems for sure.

I have had good luck with both sides, but older AMD cpu's did not take well to overheating, while many Intel ones just kept on going. These days, both have built in protection(clock down like crazy) and thermal shutoffs(still too hot).

Intel is mostly(if not all, but you never know if they have some mobile on desktop systems still) on LGA for desktop and have been for years. I had no issue with pins on the cpu since they are much more easy to straighten out of bent than the LGA socket.

I have not seen many cpus actually fail outside of neglect(or other failures taking it out). It is pretty rare for cpus to fail from what I have seen. Overclocking clearly can take out anything if one goes too far(but this is Overclock.net so that is expected).


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> With new gear it works better but there are still some problems. The chain is too loose.
> While it does work for few seconds (small success) then the chain falls.
> I will have to do something to keep the chain tension high enough. I already tested what happens if the tensions is higher.
> I was holding the chain with my hand(it was bit painful) and started rotationg the pedals. The chain was not falling anymore.


You should remove some links to make the chain shorter.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> Haven't tried LGA pins, practiced on a p4 first.
> 
> With LGA might need bit of practice to straighten pins along the length. Spot the bent pins by constantly rotating CPU, they show up really clearly.


I think you have LGA confused. LGA is Land Grid Array where the pins are on the motherboard socket, and the CPU has flat pads. Nothing to straighten out.


----------



## Asymmetry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats awsome, i wish i had one, also what cpu socket is that? im used to the center being a square of caps, that has pins everywere!


Old amd socket 939, this is a Althlon X2 chip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> I think you have LGA confused. LGA is Land Grid Array where the pins are on the motherboard socket, and the CPU has flat pads. Nothing to straighten out.


Yep, my bad with LGA


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> Old amd socket 939, this is a Althlon X2 chip
> Yep, my bad with LGA


Crap forgot about 939.


----------



## Jimbags

@Pawelr98 If that chain breaks ir will rip your scrote off. Maybe a chain gaurd is necessary?


----------



## doyll

@Pawelr98
You need to remove the slack from the chain by either removing a pair of links or adding another gear / roller on output / slack side, not the side (top side) that is tight the motor is running / gear is pulling on. This will keep the chain on top tight so it can't jump off of gear teeth, same as rear derailer does with it's 2 roller spring loaded tensioner.







But on the front I would only use one roller to tension the chain.

Also, your chain looks like some of the links are tight and not flexing easily. On such a small gear this will cause problems because the chain need to form over the teeth / around gear easily. This allows gear to pull on chain with several teeth.


----------



## RockeyDA

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> AMD had Server CPUs(Athlon 64 based Opterons) that crushed Intel for a good while(in the Pentium 4 era). They did wake the sleeping giant Intel and have never quite got to that point since. They still offer some good value for some systems for sure.
> 
> I have had good luck with both sides, but older AMD cpu's did not take well to overheating, while many Intel ones just kept on going. These days, both have built in protection(clock down like crazy) and thermal shutoffs(still too hot).
> 
> Intel is mostly(if not all, but you never know if they have some mobile on desktop systems still) on LGA for desktop and have been for years. I had no issue with pins on the cpu since they are much more easy to straighten out of bent than the LGA socket.
> 
> I have not seen many cpus actually fail outside of neglect(or other failures taking it out). It is pretty rare for cpus to fail from what I have seen. Overclocking clearly can take out anything if one goes too far(but this is Overclock.net so that is expected).






so i seen some advertisements talking about cpu's with a unlocked multiplier? is that suposed to help with over clocking some how? and if so how? i have never tuched the multiplier on my system, but its max is 24x i think. the QPI Freq and voltage are the only 2 things i really played with.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Unlocked means you can increase the CPU multi higher than stock speed. This is a selling point to overclockers, because you only needed to change the multiplier to make your CPU faster. This also gives you more room to adjust other things like RAM and the memory controller.

Now, at least for Intel, unlocked is the only way you can expect to get a successful overclock. They linked the BCLK to the PCIe frequency. You can't push the PCIe much without things getting unstable. The last chipset that fully supported BCLK overclocking is X58 as far as I'm aware. The Z170 chipset unofficially can overclock using the BCLK, but it's more limited, and Intel is doing their best to prevent it. It sucks because you can't even run your high end RAM at it's max frequency unless you have an unlocked chip.

AMD so far still allow OCing using the FSB / BCLK / Whatever you want to call that base frequency. Hope they keep it that way.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> @Pawelr98
> You need to remove the slack from the chain by either removing a pair of links or adding another gear / roller on output / slack side, not the side (top side) that is tight the motor is running / gear is pulling on. This will keep the chain on top tight so it can't jump off of gear teeth, same as rear derailer does with it's 2 roller spring loaded tensioner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on the front I would only use one roller to tension the chain.
> 
> Also, your chain looks like some of the links are tight and not flexing easily. On such a small gear this will cause problems because the chain need to form over the teeth / around gear easily. This allows gear to pull on chain with several teeth.


So today I welded an old gear changer to the frame.

The video shows how it works at the moment. The engine runs backwards to allow easier testing.
It also works when the engine runs normally. During the test the engine was running ~14V instead of rated 36V.



The only problem by far is chain falling off the big gear. That's becase the gear on the engine is still not secured (can move on the shaft) properly.
As the engine runs for little longer the gear starts to move closer to the engine. The chain follows and the chain jumps to lower gear causing huge lost of tension.

If the chains still falls off with engine's gear secured then I will try to get another mechanism for keeping proper chain tension.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I think if you shortened the chain a link or two it would work.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I think if you shortened the chain a link or two it would work.


I couldn't remove 2 links(the chain would be too short) and removing one was improssible(two unconnectable parts at ends).

But this works better because It's easier to remove the chain and when the chain extends due to wear then the tension is still the same.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> So today I welded an old gear changer to the frame.
> 
> The video shows how it works at the moment. The engine runs backwards to allow easier testing.
> It also works when the engine runs normally. During the test the engine was running ~14V instead of rated 36V.
> 
> 
> 
> The only problem by far is chain falling off the big gear. That's becase the gear on the engine is still not secured (can move on the shaft) properly.
> As the engine runs for little longer the gear starts to move closer to the engine. The chain follows and the chain jumps to lower gear causing huge lost of tension.
> 
> If the chains still falls off with engine's gear secured then I will try to get another mechanism for keeping proper chain tension.


\
When you run the engine forward the gear changer will be pulled flat and chain will no longer e tensioned.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Unlocked means you can increase the CPU multi higher than stock speed. This is a selling point to overclockers, because you only needed to change the multiplier to make your CPU faster. This also gives you more room to adjust other things like RAM and the memory controller.
> 
> Now, at least for Intel, unlocked is the only way you can expect to get a successful overclock. They linked the BCLK to the PCIe frequency. You can't push the PCIe much without things getting unstable. The last chipset that fully supported BCLK overclocking is X58 as far as I'm aware. The Z170 chipset unofficially can overclock using the BCLK, but it's more limited, and Intel is doing their best to prevent it. It sucks because you can't even run your high end RAM at it's max frequency unless you have an unlocked chip.
> 
> AMD so far still allow OCing using the FSB / BCLK / Whatever you want to call that base frequency. Hope they keep it that way.


one more thing since were on the topic, i tried going to the sr-2 owners forums but no one will ignolige my many post asking for help there, do you have anyidea how to overclock ram on a SR-2?
my rams rated for 1600mhz and has a freaking cooling fan... and never seen more than 1333mhz.
and wooo, im far behind that new link thing, x56 chipset!
my SR-2 is my first and only overclocking borad, only problem is it cost so much i dont want to just start touching things i dont recognize.

although i once got a 775 Pentium D Dell to overclock by 100mhz flowed by massive instabilitys and a crash around 30-60 sec.
befor i bought my sr-2 i was really desperate to get more out of my current hardware.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

The Xeon's for that socket only support 1333 RAM multiplier. You have to manually set the BCLK to 160 in order to to run them at 1600. Had the same issue when I first got my Xeons.

I'm not 100%, but I think you also need the uncore set to x2 the RAM frequency on yours. So 1600 the minimum uncore would be 3200. You may need to increase the VTT voltage to keep it stable at that speed. Mine require x1.5 the RAM speed, and won't let me set it lower. Just check in the BIOS, it shouldn't let you set it lower than it can go. Higher uncore is better for performance, just might be hard to keep it stable.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> So today I welded an old gear changer to the frame.
> 
> The video shows how it works at the moment. The engine runs backwards to allow easier testing.
> It also works when the engine runs normally. During the test the engine was running ~14V instead of rated 36V.Video was here
> The only problem by far is chain falling off the big gear. That's becase the gear on the engine is still not secured (can move on the shaft) properly.
> As the engine runs for little longer the gear starts to move closer to the engine. The chain follows and the chain jumps to lower gear causing huge lost of tension.
> 
> If the chains still falls off with engine's gear secured then I will try to get another mechanism for keeping proper chain tension.


That is pretty cool to watch.

RockeyDA,
As said above the base clock was linked to other things making it harder to overclock with the multiplier on some newer cpus. First generation I-series cpus could hold other clocks in check(expect the memory, that have a multiplier that had to be set to avoid pushing memory too far). Second generation and newer started using the multiplier. The advantage to this is it generally only stresses the cpu and not anything else on the board. This made overclocking pretty easy too(less settings to have to change unless you wanted every last mhz).

Older AthlonXP generation cpus also had issues pushing AGP frequencies when overclocking as well, but this varied from board to board and chipset to chipset.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> When you run the engine forward the gear changer will be pulled flat and chain will no longer e tensioned.


This is not the case. I already tested what happens with engine running forward. The tensioner still works.
If it wasn't then the chain would fall off the gear within few seconds.

The explanation for this is very easy, The pedals are very easy to rotate because of the second rpm reductor.
Thefore the chain is not under high load like in normal condition. The engine has high rpm but little torque. If the load was high then engine would have trouble to start.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I think if you shortened the chain a link or two it would work.
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't remove 2 links(the chain would be too short) and removing one was improssible(two unconnectable parts at ends)...
Click to expand...

It's been a long time since I worked on bicycles but, back in the day, you could get offset links that allowed removing just one link.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> This is not the case. I already tested what happens with engine running forward. The tensioner still works.
> If it wasn't then the chain would fall off the gear within few seconds.
> 
> The explanation for this is very easy, The pedals are very easy to rotate because of the second rpm reductor.
> Thefore the chain is not under high load like in normal condition. The engine has high rpm but little torque. If the load was high then engine would have trouble to start.


Sorry, but you are wrong. It is simple physics 101. the motor is pulling the chain from top of crank sprocket to top of motor, and the derailer's spring loaded tension system on it's 2 rollers will allow the chain to straighten out and create slack between motor and crank sprocket.

You need to remove the slack in the chain on the non-loaded side, not on the loaded side. It's basic mechanical engineering 101.

As Lady Fitzgerald said, you might be able to get a 'half link'. But normal drive chains have adjustable motor mounts or chain tension build into their design to tighten the drive chain. And the gears must be in alignment between motor and crank. You do not have the distances between gears from your motor to crank that there is from crank to rear gear cassette to absorb the differences nor the normal little gear to big gear pulling like is typical on a bicycle drive system. You are using big gear to small gear between crank and motor.

Look at your bicycle. the power that turns the wheel is on top of the gears from wheel to crank. Crank pulls the chain from rear gear to crank. The derailer and tensioner is on the slack side below the back gears.

If you cannot understand this, I will not try helping or explaining it again.

Look at any chain drive, like a military tank, the power/drive gear pulling the track (chain) is at the back of tank for a reason. It keeps tension on the chain (track) going onto the power gear.


----------



## kivikas14

The recap probably doesn´t qualify as ghetto mod, but the added ridiculously big LEDs...











Done mod to vanilla Recon3D: recap + 10mm blue LEDs + 330Ohm (0402 package)


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Does this count as ghetto? SO-DIMM DDR3 adapters. Only have two SO-DIMMs, gonna look into which samsung DDR3 chips have the best chance for high OCs. These do 1800mhz so far.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Does this count as ghetto? SO-DIMM DDR3 adapters. Only have two SO-DIMMs, gonna look into which samsung DDR3 chips have the best chance for high OCs. These do 1800mhz so far.


HCH9 or YCK0 IC's oc the best but your BCH9's should still be able to do 2400MHz+ (On newer platforms) if they are anything like the full sized dimm's.

I was able to do just under 2600MHz @ 11-12-12-30 1T 1.7V on my A55 FM1 mobo. One thing to keep in mind for these ic's are that they like the tRC & tRP timings to be 2 higher than the CAS latency (Ex. 8-10-10). Don't be afraid to give them extra voltage either because these things can take it (Your cpu's IMC may not though







).


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I'm limited to ~2140 since my bclk can only go up to 214, and the Xeons don't support a higher memory multi than 10. RAM currently in my sig rig could do that with ease (not in triple channel, just individually) so hopefully these can. If not, there's plenty going for cheap on ebay.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kivikas14*
> 
> The recap probably doesn´t qualify as ghetto mod, but the added ridiculously big LEDs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done mod to vanilla Recon3D: recap + 10mm blue LEDs + 330Ohm (0402 package)


Those are some big LEDs last time I saw 10mm leds was outdoor solar lighting.

Nice work either way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Does this count as ghetto? SO-DIMM DDR3 adapters. Only have two SO-DIMMs, gonna look into which samsung DDR3 chips have the best chance for high OCs. These do 1800mhz so far.


I did not even know they made those adapters.


----------



## kivikas14

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Those are some big LEDs last time I saw 10mm leds was outdoor solar lighting.
> 
> Nice work either way.
> I did not even know they made those adapters.


Thanks! My poor evaluation of the 10mm LED size when buying, resulted in rather awkwardly lightened up case














But what once bought, needed to be soldered, thus the ghettoness.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I did not even know they made those adapters.


I have seen such adapters in a electronics center in Shanghai.

I was wondering about them because I have seen so-dimm 2133mhz ddr3 sticks reaching as high as 2600mhz on overclockable mini-ITX board.

When it comes to electric bicycle:
-The gear is welded to the engine's shaft. No more moving around freely. Chain is bit more stable
-I have welded a trunk for the batteries, it may look weak but I loaded it with 25KG and it was stable, batteries will be 16.5KG so it should be fine
-As for tensioner I think I will get second one, That's because I tested what happens when there are 2 tensioners (one beeing current one, second my hand), the chain was very stable with 2 tensioners,what really convinced me was low cost of a gear changer, it won't cost much but will greatly affect chain stability (especially considering that the chain may be moving faster than in current tests).


These pipes are pretty thin so I burn through them very often even with lower current.


----------



## RockeyDA

UPDATE!



so yeah tomrrow im probbly gonna try and rip the motor off and see if i can find the sorce of grinding and stop it probably with more grinding.
i refuse to let a 15" woofer be low powerd!


----------



## Stige

Ghetto "rigging" for my new man cave at new apartment to keep the evil sun out of my room!


----------



## Powerg4

Only the finest Rustoleum paint was used to paint this ugly beige case!
Not perfect, but beats buying an expensive airbrush


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Only the finest Rustoleum paint was used to paint this ugly beige case!
> Not perfect, but beats buying an expensive airbrush


"Finest Rustoleum paint" is an oxymoron.


----------



## Powerg4

Of course! You can't get much more ghetto than Rustoleum for painting a case.








Although it was actually quite expensive compared to the other spray paints at bunnings, probably because it doesn't require the use of primer to paint metal. I'm actually pretty happy with how this came out though, if you are lazy like me and can't afford/ be bothered with primers and expensive airbrushes etc I would highly reccomend this stuff!


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Sorry, but you are wrong. It is simple physics 101. the motor is pulling the chain from top of crank sprocket to top of motor, and the derailer's spring loaded tension system on it's 2 rollers will allow the chain to straighten out and create slack between motor and crank sprocket.
> 
> You need to remove the slack in the chain on the non-loaded side, not on the loaded side. It's basic mechanical engineering 101.
> 
> As Lady Fitzgerald said, you might be able to get a 'half link'. But normal drive chains have adjustable motor mounts or chain tension build into their design to tighten the drive chain. And the gears must be in alignment between motor and crank. You do not have the distances between gears from your motor to crank that there is from crank to rear gear cassette to absorb the differences nor the normal little gear to big gear pulling like is typical on a bicycle drive system. You are using big gear to small gear between crank and motor.
> 
> Look at your bicycle. the power that turns the wheel is on top of the gears from wheel to crank. Crank pulls the chain from rear gear to crank. The derailer and tensioner is on the slack side below the back gears.
> 
> If you cannot understand this, I will not try helping or explaining it again.
> 
> Look at any chain drive, like a military tank, the power/drive gear pulling the track (chain) is at the back of tank for a reason. It keeps tension on the chain (track) going onto the power gear.


I agree with you mostly except the tank thing. I work with cranes for a living, alot of which use tracks. They can have the drive at either end and still drive back and forth. Some waying from 30 metric tonne to over 1000 metric tonne. Ive seen it with my own eyes. Also excavators etc. Not directly comparable to chain drives as they have weight on them.


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Of course! You can't get much more ghetto than Rustoleum for painting a case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although it was actually quite expensive compared to the other spray paints at bunnings, probably because it doesn't require the use of primer to paint metal. I'm actually pretty happy with how this came out though, if you are lazy like me and can't afford/ be bothered with primers and expensive airbrushes etc I would highly reccomend this stuff!


I'd like to speak on behalf of the rattle can masses.

Yes, it's much easier to screw up a paint job using a can of spray paint vs a dedicated airbrush system, but like anything, proper preparation of rattle can materials and surfaces can yield results that are indistinguishable from a quality airbrush job.

It's all about knowing what you are working with. Most beginners go with spray paints because the initial investment of cost is low compared to airbrushing. As time goes on, these beginners eventually graduate to using airbrushes, but those that remain behind with the rattle cans are just as good as the airbrush users.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Of course! You can't get much more ghetto than Rustoleum for painting a case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although it was actually quite expensive compared to the other spray paints at bunnings, probably because it doesn't require the use of primer to paint metal. I'm actually pretty happy with how this came out though, if you are lazy like me and can't afford/ be bothered with primers and expensive airbrushes etc I would highly reccomend this stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to speak on behalf of the rattle can masses.
> 
> Yes, it's much easier to screw up a paint job using a can of spray paint vs a dedicated airbrush system, but like anything, proper preparation of rattle can materials and surfaces can yield results that are indistinguishable from a quality airbrush job.
> 
> It's all about knowing what you are working with. Most beginners go with spray paints because the initial investment of cost is low compared to airbrushing. As time goes on, these beginners eventually graduate to using airbrushes, but those that remain behind with the rattle cans are just as good as the airbrush users.
Click to expand...

Rattle can paint is fine as long as you get good quality paint. Rustoleum has been pure garbage since sometime in the late '80s to early '90s when they changed up their formulation to be more "environmentally friendly". Since then, I've never been able to get a good finish with Rustoleum. It takes forever to cure, staying rubbery for quite some time unless yoy fog on really thin coats and let them dry thoroughly.

I have used Rustoleum's self etching primer for aluminum, which, surprisingly, is better than Krylon's or Duplicolor's, but it gives me a fuzzy finish at best that needs to be wet sanded before applying additional coats. Cans that have been used before will squirt out occasional what I call worms (the polite term I use): little short threads of thickened paint that manages to squeeze through the nozzle (I can shake the can 'til the cows come home and I will still get the worms). Those are harder to sand out without cutting completely through the primer. I use the can just for that job, then toss it, no matter how much paint is left.

I've had my best luck using Krylon. Duplicolor comes in second. Krylon has an excellent line of plastic paints. They even have a line of combination primer/color coat I've had good luck with. I usually put a color coat on top, though, to play it safe.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimbags*
> 
> I agree with you mostly except the tank thing. I work with cranes for a living, alot of which use tracks. They can have the drive at either end and still drive back and forth. Some waying from 30 metric tonne to over 1000 metric tonne. Ive seen it with my own eyes. Also excavators etc. Not directly comparable to chain drives as they have weight on them.


True, but a crane is not using the tracks to work like a tank or dozer. The strain on track, belt, chain is much greater when load being moved is behind drive gear / pulley than in front. On them the drive gear is at the end of track that is normally the back end when moving under heavy load. Tanks and crawler tractors are examples of equipment that do most of the heavy work going one direction, and I can't think of any that have the power gear at the front. John Deere, Caterpillar, Komatsu, etc. This is done for several reasons; less wear on track system and more direct load on working area being the most important .. the same principles apply to all chain and belt drive systems.


----------



## Recursion




----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> I'd like to speak on behalf of the rattle can masses.
> 
> Yes, it's much easier to screw up a paint job using a can of spray paint vs a dedicated airbrush system, but like anything, proper preparation of rattle can materials and surfaces can yield results that are indistinguishable from a quality airbrush job.
> 
> It's all about knowing what you are working with. Most beginners go with spray paints because the initial investment of cost is low compared to airbrushing. As time goes on, these beginners eventually graduate to using airbrushes, but those that remain behind with the rattle cans are just as good as the airbrush users.


Interesting stuff! I think in the end it all comes down to whether or not you are going to be painting regularly enough to justify buying an airbrush system. I don't so tend to just go for whatever spray paint I can get and so I'm not too fussed about minor imperfections. Good prep I would say is 75% of doing a good job, other than that you just have to spray as even as you can! I'm no expert though, I just like to make my old cases a bit more interesting!









I have only painted two cases so far anyway, one plastic and this metal one so not really worth the money to get an airbrush just yet when I would rather spend it on other tools (dremel blades, soldering equipment etc.)


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> I'd like to speak on behalf of the rattle can masses.
> 
> Yes, it's much easier to screw up a paint job using a can of spray paint vs a dedicated airbrush system, but like anything, proper preparation of rattle can materials and surfaces can yield results that are indistinguishable from a quality airbrush job.
> 
> It's all about knowing what you are working with. Most beginners go with spray paints because the initial investment of cost is low compared to airbrushing. As time goes on, these beginners eventually graduate to using airbrushes, but those that remain behind with the rattle cans are just as good as the airbrush users.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting stuff! I think in the end it all comes down to whether or not you are going to be painting regularly enough to justify buying an airbrush system. I don't so tend to just go for whatever spray paint I can get and so I'm not too fussed about minor imperfections. Good prep I would say is 75% of doing a good job, other than that you just have to spray as even as you can! I'm no expert though, I just like to make my old cases a bit more interesting!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have only painted two cases so far anyway, one plastic and this metal one so not really worth the money to get an airbrush just yet when I would rather spend it on other tools (dremel blades, soldering equipment etc.)
Click to expand...

You've inadvertently brought up another point about ROI (Return on Investment). If you are working on a single paint job and don't have any long term use for it, an airbrush system is a poor investment versus rattle cans.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> You've inadvertently brought up another point about ROI (Return on Investment). If you are working on a single paint job and don't have any long term use for it, an airbrush system is a poor investment versus rattle cans.


speaking of airbrush...I'm about to get an 80 gal 3.5hp dual piston compressor for 200...I'll be using it for everything from painting to air chisel


----------



## Powerg4

I would like to get an air compressor, very useful for cleaning out just about anything (dusty heatsinks, dirty old pcb's etc.)

A decent sized one is not cheap though, and my neighbour has a massive one he always lets me use if I need to, so i probably won't get one for a while.

Larger used 3 phase stuff is very cheap though, I even have an ancient 3 phase lathe sitting here doing nothing. Our house is an older one which has 3 phase on the incoming lines to the panel, but to access it would need a 3 phase socket installed in the garage which would be an expensive job. The benefits of being able to get cheaper equipment could quickly pay off though, there are also phase converters you can get.









It is always best to have the right tools for the job. That said I have a friend who painted his whole car with cans of rustoleum, the original paint was completely gone and it came out surprisingly good!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> I would like to get an air compressor, very useful for cleaning out just about anything (dusty heatsinks, dirty old pcb's etc.)
> 
> A decent sized one is not cheap though, and my neighbour has a massive one he always lets me use if I need to, so i probably won't get one for a while.
> 
> Larger used 3 phase stuff is very cheap though, I even have an ancient 3 phase lathe sitting here doing nothing. Our house is an older one which has 3 phase on the incoming lines to the panel, but to access it would need a 3 phase socket installed in the garage which would be an expensive job. The benefits of being able to get cheaper equipment could quickly pay off though, there are also phase converters you can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is always best to have the right tools for the job. That said I have a friend who painted his whole car with cans of rustoleum, the original paint was completely gone and it came out surprisingly good!


yeah a lot of people don't realize how large an 80 gal tank is...most large water heaters are 40 or 60 at most...must larger air compressors are 40


----------



## doyll

80 gallon is huge! Assuming it has compressor in proportion to tank it can run most any air tool with no problems. Well, probably not a big jack-hammer or sand blaster.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 80 gallon is huge! Assuming it has compressor in proportion to tank it can run most any air tool with no problems. Well, probably not a big jack-hammer or sand blaster.


I once had a compressor with a 50 gl. tank that I used for sandblasting. I built it from a 50 gl. propane tank, an old three cylinder refrigeration compressor, and single cylinder 10 HP gasoline engine (all scrounged components). It could have easily run a big jack hammer as long as I ran it full blast (even when sandblasting, it ran at only around half throttle).


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 80 gallon is huge! Assuming it has compressor in proportion to tank it can run most any air tool with no problems. Well, probably not a big jack-hammer or sand blaster.


yeah it's about 7 feet tall...and the motor is I think a two cylinder v style compressor...should handle anything I throw at it......plan to get me about 200'ft of good quality 300psi rated house and go to town on some stuff...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> I would like to get an air compressor, very useful for cleaning out just about anything (dusty heatsinks, dirty old pcb's etc.)
> 
> A decent sized one is not cheap though, and my neighbour has a massive one he always lets me use if I need to, so i probably won't get one for a while.
> 
> Larger used 3 phase stuff is very cheap though, I even have an ancient 3 phase lathe sitting here doing nothing. Our house is an older one which has 3 phase on the incoming lines to the panel, but to access it would need a 3 phase socket installed in the garage which would be an expensive job. The benefits of being able to get cheaper equipment could quickly pay off though, there are also phase converters you can get.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is always best to have the right tools for the job. That said I have a friend who painted his whole car with cans of rustoleum, the original paint was completely gone and it came out surprisingly good!


you can easily convert that to a single phase, unit, you just need to replace the motor unless it is a true commercial unit with starters/sequencers , in which minor rewiring would need to be done, but nothing hard about it


----------



## Pawelr98

An update on electric bicycle.

So far I received the batteries. Connected them in series using thick cables.
The trunk seems to be just fine with the weight.

Now for the more important part. Full power testing.
Batteries came with ~13V voltage so I was able to do testing with full power.
From testing:
1.Chain doesn't like high rpm, testing without load is impossible, therefore I should do tests with wheel on ground,the engine had enough power to move the bike
2.Second tensioner is going to be a very important part, because when loaded engine reaches high rpm then chain will be very unstable
3.Controller may be neccessary, the relay I wanted to use broke down during tests, high current with load testing welded connectors in relay making fixed connection(weird because car lights relay should be fine with such current).I can find cheap controllers in china so maybe this will do the trick


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> An update on electric bicycle.
> 
> So far I received the batteries. Connected them in series using thick cables.
> The trunk seems to be just fine with the weight.
> 
> Now for the more important part. Full power testing.
> Batteries came with ~13V voltage so I was able to do testing with full power.
> From testing:
> 1.Chain doesn't like high rpm, testing without load is impossible, therefore I should do tests with wheel on ground,the engine had enough power to move the bike
> 2.Second tensioner is going to be a very important part, because when loaded engine reaches high rpm then chain will be very unstable
> 3.Controller may be neccessary, the relay I wanted to use broke down during tests, high current with load testing welded connectors in relay making fixed connection(weird because car lights relay should be fine with such current).I can find cheap controllers in china so maybe this will do the trick


How thick are the cables? What's the voltage and amp ratings on those batteries and how many are there?

I'm just asking because you might be able to go with a thinner cable depending on the information on your system.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> An update on electric bicycle.
> 
> So far I received the batteries. Connected them in series using thick cables.
> The trunk seems to be just fine with the weight.
> 
> Now for the more important part. Full power testing.
> Batteries came with ~13V voltage so I was able to do testing with full power.
> From testing:
> 1.Chain doesn't like high rpm, testing without load is impossible, therefore I should do tests with wheel on ground,the engine had enough power to move the bike
> 2.Second tensioner is going to be a very important part, because when loaded engine reaches high rpm then chain will be very unstable
> 3.Controller may be neccessary, the relay I wanted to use broke down during tests, high current with load testing welded connectors in relay making fixed connection(weird because car lights relay should be fine with such current).I can find cheap controllers in china so maybe this will do the trick
> 
> 
> 
> How thick are the cables? What's the voltage and amp ratings on those batteries and how many are there?
> 
> I'm just asking because you might be able to go with a thinner cable depending on the information on your system.
Click to expand...

Cables are around 3mm thick IIRC. It's actually two thinner wires used as one but still does the job.

3 batteries (gel acid-lead(those maintence free sealed ones) 20AH),each is rated for 13.7V. Current wise I have no idea becase I cannot measure it.
But I think anywhere from 7A(rated 250W of the engine) to 10A(assuming engine running low rpm).


----------



## TheMadProfessor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> An update on electric bicycle.
> 
> So far I received the batteries. Connected them in series using thick cables.
> The trunk seems to be just fine with the weight.
> 
> Now for the more important part. Full power testing.
> Batteries came with ~13V voltage so I was able to do testing with full power.
> From testing:
> 1.Chain doesn't like high rpm, testing without load is impossible, therefore I should do tests with wheel on ground,the engine had enough power to move the bike
> 2.Second tensioner is going to be a very important part, because when loaded engine reaches high rpm then chain will be very unstable
> 3.Controller may be neccessary, the relay I wanted to use broke down during tests, high current with load testing welded connectors in relay making fixed connection(weird because car lights relay should be fine with such current).I can find cheap controllers in china so maybe this will do the trick
> 
> 
> 
> How thick are the cables? What's the voltage and amp ratings on those batteries and how many are there?
> 
> I'm just asking because you might be able to go with a thinner cable depending on the information on your system.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cables are around 3mm thick IIRC. It's actually two thinner wires used as one but still does the job.
> 
> 3 batteries (gel acid-lead(those maintence free sealed ones) 20AH),each is rated for 13.7V. Current wise I have no idea becase I cannot measure it.
> But I think anywhere from 7A(rated 250W of the engine) to 10A(assuming engine running low rpm).
Click to expand...

Yes, you can measure the current.

Watts = Amps x Volts therefore Amps = Watts/Volts

250W/13.7V = approximately 18-19 Amps total current, which you want to use when determining wire size. Voltage doesn't really become a factor until you start getting higher in the voltage ranges. Most wire you can get from stores is rated anywhere from 600V to 2000V, and you're only pulling about 45V total, if you have them in series.

Based on that, you want to use a single conductor #12 wire (preferably THHN or even something more insulated, since they are exposed to the elements) as #12 wire is rated for 20A of current (#14 is only rated for 15A).

A #12 stranded wire in THHN is 128 mils, or about 3.25mm.

Now, you said that the cable is a two conductor cable that measures at about 3mm in thickness. This is worrisome, as it means that it's two thinner conductors. The thinner the conductor it, the less amperage it can handle, and I worry that you may burn out the conductors.Putting two wires on a single point is dangerous, as if one wire breaks or shorts, all the amperes are gonna flow through the remaining wire. I would recommend replacing them with #12 wire as soon as possible. Maybe even #10 (rated at 30A) just to give yourself some padding.

The wire won't be any thinner than what you have, but it will be safer to use.

Also, get stranded, not solid wire. Stranded is better for this application, as it has more freedom of movement. When you bend solid wire, it tends to stay bent and is more susceptible to breakage.


----------



## RnRollie

^^^^ What @TheMadProfessor said









Also, as an extra argument for getting decent wire....: 45V at 18 Amps can give you quite a wake-up call already.

So,if this wiring is open to the elements, you might even consider using the rubberized automotive (battery/wiring harness) leads.... although i might be a bit too cautious here


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheMadProfessor*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> An update on electric bicycle.
> 
> So far I received the batteries. Connected them in series using thick cables.
> The trunk seems to be just fine with the weight.
> 
> Now for the more important part. Full power testing.
> Batteries came with ~13V voltage so I was able to do testing with full power.
> From testing:
> 1.Chain doesn't like high rpm, testing without load is impossible, therefore I should do tests with wheel on ground,the engine had enough power to move the bike
> 2.Second tensioner is going to be a very important part, because when loaded engine reaches high rpm then chain will be very unstable
> 3.Controller may be neccessary, the relay I wanted to use broke down during tests, high current with load testing welded connectors in relay making fixed connection(weird because car lights relay should be fine with such current).I can find cheap controllers in china so maybe this will do the trick
> 
> 
> 
> How thick are the cables? What's the voltage and amp ratings on those batteries and how many are there?
> 
> I'm just asking because you might be able to go with a thinner cable depending on the information on your system.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cables are around 3mm thick IIRC. It's actually two thinner wires used as one but still does the job.
> 
> 3 batteries (gel acid-lead(those maintence free sealed ones) 20AH),each is rated for 13.7V. Current wise I have no idea becase I cannot measure it.
> But I think anywhere from 7A(rated 250W of the engine) to 10A(assuming engine running low rpm).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, you can measure the current.
> 
> Watts = Amps x Volts therefore Amps = Watts/Volts
> 
> 250W/13.7V = approximately 18-19 Amps total current, which you want to use when determining wire size. Voltage doesn't really become a factor until you start getting higher in the voltage ranges. Most wire you can get from stores is rated anywhere from 600V to 2000V, and you're only pulling about 45V total, if you have them in series.
> 
> Based on that, you want to use a single conductor #12 wire (preferably THHN or even something more insulated, since they are exposed to the elements) as #12 wire is rated for 20A of current (#14 is only rated for 15A).
> 
> A #12 stranded wire in THHN is 128 mils, or about 3.25mm.
> 
> Now, you said that the cable is a two conductor cable that measures at about 3mm in thickness. This is worrisome, as it means that it's two thinner conductors. The thinner the conductor it, the less amperage it can handle, and I worry that you may burn out the conductors.Putting two wires on a single point is dangerous, as if one wire breaks or shorts, all the amperes are gonna flow through the remaining wire. I would recommend replacing them with #12 wire as soon as possible. Maybe even #10 (rated at 30A) just to give yourself some padding.
> 
> The wire won't be any thinner than what you have, but it will be safer to use.
> 
> Also, get stranded, not solid wire. Stranded is better for this application, as it has more freedom of movement. When you bend solid wire, it tends to stay bent and is more susceptible to breakage.
Click to expand...

The batteries are in series so 250W/36V= ~7A (nominal engine parameters)
However the voltage will be higher than the nominal 36V and when starting the engine the current will be higher.
I can't really measure the startup current.

But it won't be that problematic by now as I ordered PWM controller for the engine.
Getting a relay that can stand such extreme current at startup is not really good cost wise(shipping costing 2-3 times more than relay).
So I just purchased PWM controller rated for 20A and voltage up to 90V.

And another update:
-Got chargers and tensioner
-New tensioner welded to the frame
-Chain seems to be more stable but I would prefer to test it when controller gets here
-"fake" pedals" (to place foots on and to meet the last law requirement for this vehicle to be considered bicycle)welded to the frame


----------



## JourneymanMike

Hey, what's all this electric bicycle stuff doing on a computer forum????
There is another place on ONC for this discussion http://www.overclock.net/f/22/off-topic http://www.overclock.net/f/22/off-topic


----------



## Mystriss

It's a ghetto electric bike! ~shrug~ I like reading about it's progress; make a build log under "other mods"?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> It's a ghetto electric bike! ~shrug~ I like reading about it's progress; make a build log under "other mods"?


it's interesting enough...I read an article about 13 years Shi a company was developing an electric motor powered bike that had small generators on the wheels using friction to charge the batteries similar to what one of those lights you can install that is powered from the wheels friction..I'm pretty sure it never made it to production though


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Dat bike qualifies as "Ghetto rigging shenanigans".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *88EVGAFTW*
> 
> Well I could not find a thread dedicated to only posting what you have ghetto rigged, so I thought I would make my own. Post any ghetto cabling, ghetto fan mods, ghetto electrical tape jobs, ghetto holes and lights. ANYTHING GHETTO!!!


----------



## Nukemaster

Seeing as we have other non computer mods in here as well. Let the bike stay


----------



## G33K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, what's all this electric bicycle stuff doing on a computer forum????
> There is another place on ONC for this discussion http://www.overclock.net/f/22/off-topic http://www.overclock.net/f/22/off-topic










I bet you're real fun at parties


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JourneymanMike*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey, what's all this electric bicycle stuff doing on a computer forum????
> There is another place on ONC for this discussion http://www.overclock.net/f/22/off-topic http://www.overclock.net/f/22/off-topic


Who cares, it's interesting.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Who cares, it's interesting.


Interest is relative.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Who cares, it's interesting.
> 
> 
> 
> Interest is relative.
Click to expand...

So?


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> So?


There's no "so?" to it. It's a declarative statement.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> So?
> 
> 
> 
> There's no "so?" to it. It's a declarative statement.
Click to expand...

It's also meaningless.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> It's also meaningless.


Well isn't that quite rude.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> It's also meaningless.
> 
> 
> 
> Well isn't that quite rude.
Click to expand...

No more than your comment.


----------



## mr squishy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> No more than your comment.


Well this isn't getting anywhere.








To get back on topic, has anyone mounted one of those old stock Phenom heatpipe coolers to an LGA 1150 socket before? I'm going to try it myself and I'm curious if anyone on this forum has done it themselves before.


----------



## Nukemaster

Closest I saw was this.
http://www.overclock.net/t/666445/post-your-ghetto-rigging-shenanigans/6240_40#post_24916239


----------



## Powerg4

The electric bike deserves it's place in this thread if you ask me!
Besides, it's a ghetto rigging right?








I guess not everyone understands the spirit of throwing something together to make do with what you have!


----------



## TK421

I got a 920XM for my M15x, topped out at 3.6GHz but running a bit toasty when stress testing.




























I cleaned some of the black paint off to improve themal transfer. Currently the TIM for small heatsink is only a thermal paste, not strong enough to be flipped upside down, but is enough for testing purposes.

Without mod, cover installed or removed (no diff) = 92c max core
With mod, cover removed, vent grill removed = 88c max core
With mod, cover removed, vent grill removed, fan blowing = 80c max core


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Of course! You can't get much more ghetto than Rustoleum for painting a case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although it was actually quite expensive compared to the other spray paints at bunnings, probably because it doesn't require the use of primer to paint metal. I'm actually pretty happy with how this came out though, if you are lazy like me and can't afford/ be bothered with primers and expensive airbrushes etc I would highly reccomend this stuff!


i have had good luck with engine block paint. i got a pouder coat gun and im exited to try that out but i need pouder coat poaint :C


----------



## RockeyDA

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I got a 920XM for my M15x, topped out at 3.6GHz but running a bit toasty when stress testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cleaned some of the black paint off to improve themal transfer. Currently the TIM for small heatsink is only a thermal paste, not strong enough to be flipped upside down, but is enough for testing purposes.
> 
> Without mod, cover installed or removed (no diff) = 92c max core
> With mod, cover removed, vent grill removed = 88c max core
> With mod, cover removed, vent grill removed, fan blowing = 80c max core





i used to have the same fan!, but one day i tripped on it and it pissed me off so i kicked it to pices.


----------



## Mystriss

I need some advice:



I'm all excited cause this is my first scavenger operation! My husband wants it gone so I've got a week to pull it apart. I know I want the transformers, motors, display, and pcbs, but is there anything else in particular I should really make sure I snag off it?

We think the magnatron is dead, it stopped cooking after only 2 years and I decided I'm not replacing the thing every couple years so I bought a Samsung instead of having it looked at.


----------



## Nukemaster

Most of these do not have that much inside(I got some wire and heat sinks and a power filter last time I took a microwave apart.).
I had no use for the motor under the table.


----------



## Mystriss

Aww









Ah well, I want the motors cause I'm building an android operated camera pan/tilt for aurora pictures - I don't want to sit out in the cold chasing them lol I was hoping I could do something with the display and it's got some fans I had an idea for.

How about a 65" rear projection TV? The one in the theater decided that "red" and "green" are not real colors anymore so we're planning to chuck it out the window soon as the ground dries up a bit - no way we're taking it back down the stairs, it took us two days to get it up there even with all four boys lol


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Aww
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah well, I want the motors cause I'm building an android operated camera pan/tilt for aurora pictures - I don't want to sit out in the cold chasing them lol I was hoping I could do something with the display and it's got some fans I had an idea for.
> 
> How about a 65" rear projection TV? The one in the theater decided that "red" and "green" are not real colors anymore so we're planning to chuck it out the window soon as the ground dries up a bit - no way we're taking it back down the stairs, it took us two days to get it up there even with all four boys lol


you can make some fun projects with that transformer. 2 of them to look into is mini induction oven and low voltage high amperage welder.


----------



## Werne

Well, since I couldn't sleep last night due to gastritis pain, I decided to do some cleaning on my phone's memory card and I found pics of stuff I haven't posted here yet.



Spoiler: DIY light fixture







Ate a jar of my mom's strawberry jam, cut a hole in it's lid and screwed a northbridge heatsink on top with a 10W LED strapped to it. Best balcony lighting I could think of with a $8 budget. Also, best jam I ever ate, I should really learn how to make that stuff.





Spoiler: Athlon 64 necklace



Not sure if wearing mutilated processor remains qualifies as ghetto, but I'll post it anyway.



I had 17 heatspreaders in my drawer from various CPUs I delidded over the years so I drilled a 1.5mm hole in the edge of each IHS, threaded keyring through them and sold them for €2 a pop as keychains/pendants figuring I might get some beer money if anyone bites. Turns out people actually like the stuff, I sold them all in a few weeks.

This particular one holds sentimental value so I kept it.













Spoiler: Solar powered radio






I made this thing ages ago, fished all the parts out of a dumpster and did some transplants. The radio was dead but I fixed it and since using batteries or adapters just isn't fun, I resorted to cannibalizing two dead solar garden lamps I found next to it and making that thing. Works quite well.





Spoiler: A spare backup backup PC



I was told I couldn't possibly fit a third PC under my desk...





This spare backup backup PC is there in case the main PC, backup PC, spare PC and two laptops I have lying around all fail.





Spoiler: LED music lightbox











I think I posted those pics before but I'm not 100% sure. Those lightboxes are basically 12 LEDs (6 in each box) hooked up to TIP31 transistors and jammed into two 25pcs CD boxes I sanded to look like frosted glass. They're powered by an 18.7V adapter from a dead 12V Electrolux Rapido, which is all I had on hand at the time.

The phone stand I hastily put together to record this is a cardboard box my MK270 (I think) came in, on which I put a dual-clamp stand for soldering that held the phone itself.

In case there's too much bass in the video, sorry about that, my phone sucks.





Spoiler: Fan vibration dampeners






1. Cut up rubber bands into small strips
2. Glue them onto a fan
3. ???
4. Profit!

It works surprisingly well and $2 gets you enough Chinese superglue and rubber bands to dampen a truckload of fans.

And if you're wondering about that piece of plastic that's screwed onto the center of the thing, Arctic F12 comes without the rubber cap thingy you can remove to oil it so I took a drill and drilled a hole there after it started rattling, figured I'd cover it with electrical tape. Turns out that doesn't work the way I thought it would, as the plastic I drilled through was pushing the fan's axle down and without it the rotor starts grinding against the stator. To fix that I just drilled two holes for screws, stuffed a bunch of cardboard in the center to push the axle down and screwed that piece of plastic over it to keep the cardboard from falling out.













Spoiler: PSU fan AC generator



Fan disassembly:


FTC S276 fan driver removed and coil connected directly to output wires:


Fan assembled:


Blowing onto the blades will power a white LED without a problem and peak output voltage I've seen is 5.12V, but generating any significant amount of power requires constant high RPM so blowing doesn't cut it. A 10pcs CD box has a lot larger diameter than the fan motor so I'm thinking about tearing off the fan blades and shroud, then using a CD box with a handle attached and a rubber band as some form of a hand crack belt drive transmission.

Also, there won't be any pics or videos of the generator in action until I make that belt drive. I'm not fond of people watching me give a blowjob to a PC fan, but a handjob is something I can live with.





Spoiler: Smartphone radio antenna





This is basically a bunch of wire I coiled up, soldered to ground on a 3.5mm jack and wrapped in electrical tape to keep everything together. It has better signal reception than headphones, it's small, and I don't have to spend 5 minutes untangling my keys from it every time I want to listen to the radio.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> We think the magnatron is dead, it stopped cooking after only 2 years and I decided I'm not replacing the thing every couple years so I bought a Samsung instead of having it looked at.


I worked on a ton of those in the repair center and from my experience, only about 2% of microwaves have an actually blown magnetron or HV transformer when they stop heating, vast majority just has a blown magnetron fuse (fuse is low quality and slightly underrated so any current fluctuation blows it) and some have a faulty microswitch. If everything works on yours (electronics have power, light is on, fan blows, plate spins, etc.) but the microwave doesn't heat, bridge the magnetron fuse and test the thing with a cup of water before you tear it to shreds, that might bring it back to life.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Aww
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah well, I want the motors cause I'm building an android operated camera pan/tilt for aurora pictures - I don't want to sit out in the cold chasing them lol I was hoping I could do something with the display and it's got some fans I had an idea for.
> 
> How about a 65" rear projection TV? The one in the theater decided that "red" and "green" are not real colors anymore so we're planning to chuck it out the window soon as the ground dries up a bit - no way we're taking it back down the stairs, it took us two days to get it up there even with all four boys lol


If you toss a TV out the window, you have to record it.

TV's tend to have lots of stuff(depending what you want). Speakers and the amplifier may be useful along with a boat load of caps/resistors. As more and more things go surface mount getting parts is less likely unless you are very good at removing them. Old stuff was so easy to scavenge for parts.

If it is a tube TV since some call those rear projection as well, watch out for high voltage for sure(the tube may also be under vacuum pressure).

Werne, Looks like you had some fun projects.


----------



## Mystriss

hmmm I suppose I should test the old nuker out then, it was like $1200 so I'm sure someone could use it if it's not as toast as we thought... Sounds like I'm not going to get a heck of a lot of parts off it anyway... meh I'll have to decide.

On the TV, yea no idea what kind it is anymore. It was brand new "tech" when we got it, Sony made it "just for us" in like 2000, 2001 (it has our last name scribed into the back panel from the folks that built it.) I really just recall that it doesn't fit up our stairwell and it weights a ton, we've actually been putting off upgrading this thing for a few years just cause we don't want to deal with getting rid of it. The frame is all wood so I figure it's going to open up like a Christmas present when it hits the ground, it could make for an interesting video. I told my husband he's gotta put some kind of bars across my picture window on the bottom floor so it doesn't get shattered heh


----------



## xxpenguinxx

@Werne I have that same pikachu thing.


----------



## Powerg4

Heaps of good stuff in old microwaves, the transformer, motors and micro switches especially are worth scavenging. Careful with the HV capacitors, make 100% sure they have discharged before you touch them, most have circuitry to drain the stored power away but I never rely on it. I pulled one apart recently, haven't used the motors yet but I made a jacob's ladder with the transformer, quite a common project there is lots of information on how to do it around the internet.

Be warned though that the level of current those transformers are capable of at 2000 volts WILL kill on contact, so be extremely careful with them. For mine I built the whole thing onto a solid wooden base, and connected the primary side of the transformer to a long extension cord fitted with an inline switch so I can control it from a good 10 metres back.

Also the safest way to start the arc is to use a single strand of steel wool wrapped around the ladder. The wool vaporises in an instant once the power is connected and starts the arc with absolutely NO contact required. Some videos show people using a long stick with a nail/piece of metal on the end to start the arc. VERY unsafe no matter what the material is at these kinds of voltages, remember that many ''insulators'' don't hold up at these voltages so you don't want to make ANY kind of direct contact/path between yourself and the source.

Only other thing is NEVER take apart a magnetron! The reason is to do with the pink insulating ring, if it is damaged it will release some very toxic dust, so don't mess with it!









That said taking things apart is fun, the Jacob's Ladder is a very cool project and perfectly safe as long as you show these transformers the respect they deserve!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Heaps of good stuff in old microwaves, the transformer, motors and micro switches especially are worth scavenging. Careful with the HV capacitors, make 100% sure they have discharged before you touch them, most have circuitry to drain the stored power away but I never rely on it. I pulled one apart recently, haven't used the motors yet but I made a jacob's ladder with the transformer, quite a common project there is lots of information on how to do it around the internet.
> 
> Be warned though that the level of current those transformers are capable of at 2000 volts WILL kill on contact, so be extremely careful with them. For mine I built the whole thing onto a solid wooden base, and connected the primary side of the transformer to a long extension cord fitted with an inline switch so I can control it from a good 10 metres back.
> 
> Also the safest way to start the arc is to use a single strand of steel wool wrapped around the ladder. The wool vaporises in an instant once the power is connected and starts the arc with absolutely NO contact required. Some videos show people using a long stick with a nail/piece of metal on the end to start the arc. VERY unsafe no matter what the material is at these kinds of voltages, remember that many ''insulators'' don't hold up at these voltages so you don't want to make ANY kind of direct contact/path between yourself and the source.
> 
> Only other thing is NEVER take apart a magnetron! The reason is to do with the pink insulating ring, if it is damaged it will release some very toxic dust, so don't mess with it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said taking things apart is fun, the Jacob's Ladder is a very cool project and perfectly safe as long as you show these transformers the respect they deserve!


I feel ripped off, I have no big transformer like that. Damn inverter(Panasonic) microwave must work different.


----------



## Werne

I forgot to post this flashlight yesterday...



Printer head motor serves as a generator (generates ~5V AC under load when spun by hand), it's hooked up to a white LED with a 100 Ohm resistor, the black square thingy is a rectifier to take care of AC flickering, and I used three 6V 2000μF caps to keep the LED glowing for a moment after I crank it up (will replace with a 2F supercap as soon as I get my hands on one). I used row connectors instead of solder cause this thing was whipped up in a hurry under the light of a tiny, almost completely burnt out birthday candle, after a lightning storm knocked out the local power grid one night. I hate surprise blackouts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Werne, Looks like you had some fun projects.


Yup, and I still got plenty of stuff I'm yet to finish. There's a whole lot of things sitting around here that either require parts I can't afford right now or are waiting for parts I can't find. I should probably hurry up and finish all that cause I'm starting to run out of room.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> it was like $1200


Holy crap, my whole kitchen cost less than that. And yeah, I'm 99% sure it's just a blown fuse, so you'll likely be able to patch it up. Just watch out for the HV cap, it should look like a big, round metal thing and sit next to the transformer, that cap stores a high-voltage charge so short it with pliers before touching anything around it. And if the microwave is dead, there's plenty of good stuff in there, like the power filter, intake fan, microswitches, plate motor, relay switches (maybe, depends on model), electronic components, heatsinks, a 2-5KV transformer (depends on model), etc.

Just don't break the magnetron (physically, I mean). Magnetrons use beryllium oxide rings for insulation, one on each end of the tube, which can cause lung cancer if beryllium dust is inhaled once the rings are damaged. If you really want to take it apart, disassemble it carefully.

As for the TV, be sure to rip out the flyback transformer if it's an old CRT. People usually throw that thing away but it can be used to make fun stuff like a plasma speaker or Jacob's ladder.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> @Werne I have that same pikachu thing.


I think I got that Pikachu there when I was around 5, it used to drive my parents nuts. The thing uses a photodiode to pick up movement so whenever a car passed by our building at night, it would go off and wake them up. It's still in excellent condition which is surprising, seeing as how my brother demolished any toy he got his hands on and he played with it often.

Considering the price of old Pokemon stuff, that Pikachu will probably be worth a fortune in 20 years, not that I'd complain.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Holy crap, my whole kitchen cost less than that. And yeah, I'm 99% sure it's just a blown fuse, so you'll likely be able to patch it up. Just watch out for the HV cap, it should look like a big, round metal thing and sit next to the transformer, that cap stores a high-voltage charge so short it with pliers before touching anything around it. And if the microwave is dead, there's plenty of good stuff in there, like the power filter, intake fan, microswitches, plate motor, relay switches (maybe, depends on model), electronic components, heatsinks, a 2-5KV transformer (depends on model), etc.
> 
> Just don't break the magnetron (physically, I mean). Magnetrons use beryllium oxide rings for insulation, one on each end of the tube, which can cause lung cancer if beryllium dust is inhaled once the rings are damaged. If you really want to take it apart, disassemble it carefully.
> 
> As for the TV, be sure to rip out the flyback transformer if it's an old CRT. People usually throw that thing away but it can be used to make fun stuff like a plasma speaker or Jacob's ladder.


We snagged this place cheap in a wonderful neighborhood, was a fixer upper but I just loved the French Tudor design. We're not planning on moving so the cost of remodeling the place exactly how we want it is well worth the expenses. I redesigned the entire kitchen and we're just about done with the remodel on it (and the entire downstairs really,) just need to figure out the drop ceiling (my husband won't let me put in a traditional copper ceiling tiles in the kitchen with all the grease but I can't find any tile designs I like :/), texture & paint the walls, and install all the maple and black trim work. I do love the way it's turned out/is turning out though, it makes me smile every time I go in there.

Went from this appalling layout  to this  


Spoiler: Kitchen Pictures



            



Its funny cause I'm actually a complete failure at cooking; I've burnt water, the kids flee if I touch a knife (I cut the tip of my finger off slicing potatoes), and if it wasn't for the nuker I'd starve to death - aka my decision to simply replace it heh

Anyway, I think I've pretty much decided that if it's easy to get the nuker fixed I'll just sell it. I'm fairly certain someone else with idk lower standards(?) would be thrilled to have it and really the only thing I was really excited to pull out of it was the motors and display panel, which I can buy pretty cheap anyway. Mostly it was the idea of scavenging something heh

The TV on the other hand I might as well scavenge because it's not going to survive being removed from the theater. I'll be sure to take some pictures of the guts for more advice as soon as my husband gets his replacement TV put in


----------



## Pawelr98

I will just quote myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> So today I rushed to finish the electric bike and ended slightly before 7PM.
> 
> However the first test ride was only a partial success.
> 
> I went into nearby path going through meadow.
> First problem I encountered was starting. I received the bicycle for my first communion so it's bit small.
> But on third try I managed to ride fast enough to put the legs on "fake pedals" and turned the potentiometer.
> Engine started and I was gaining speed. Pedals were rotating but my legs were safe from them.
> What I find important is that they were not that fast (effect of load on the engine).
> But after riding for maybe 150m the failure happened.
> 
> The path was bumpy. And the trunk with batteries was on rather long pipes.
> This was too much for the fragments of the pipes near the frame(Torque=r*F*sina so the force put on pipes near frame was much higher). Pipes bent and the trunk with the batteries ended up on rear wheel.
> 
> I quickly turned off the engine. Now was the hard part. Welds didn't break so I had to lift the trunk with batteries slightly to unlock the wheel, move a bit, get some rest and repeat.
> After some cycles of lifting the welds which were already hurt from bent pipes broke too.Actually it helped because I moved the basket with the batteries on the seat so I didn't have to lift them anymore.
> Just holding them on the seat.
> I was pretty tired after getting back home.
> 
> At least I know what works and what needs improvement.
> I will get thicker pipes and weld them to other place so that the Torque will be much lower.


I need to fix this and try again.


----------



## Mystriss

Trial and error! Sounds like nothing is broken so you can reuse it all at least


----------



## Pawelr98

I welded a new trunk for the batteries.

On old children(for 12year old children) bicycle was used as source of materials.
Frame gave me very thick pipes.

When I welded those pipes to the frame then I could sit on them (i'm 63KG) and it was still good.
Batteries are 16.5KG so this should be able to withstand such weight easily even on bumpy roads.

Tommorow I will have to redo electric circuits(connecting batteries,engine and potentiometer which controls the engine) as I had to disconnect them when the previous trunk broke down.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Just tripled my Logitech G930's battery


----------



## TTheuns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFumbles91*
> 
> Just tripled my Logitech G930's battery


For a moment I thought you just attached a power cable that would have to be connected to a wallwart.


----------



## MrFumbles91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> For a moment I thought you just attached a power cable that would have to be connected to a wallwart.


Lol not that ghetto! Just threw in an 1800mah li ion cell phone battery. The stock one was like 600mah. I'm still charging it but hopefully it lasts way longer


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TTheuns*
> 
> For a moment I thought you just attached a power cable that would have to be connected to a wallwart.


That is what I thought at first too. That plug just adds confusion for us


----------



## SuperMassiveScu

12V power supply I was using died a sad death (diode exploded.. or.. er... imploded:

Oh dear. How sad. You know diodes also contain magic smoke much like their capacitive siblings, just not as much.

So in green hopes I decided to make a supply from a scrap of wood and whatever was within an arms reach of me at the time:

It lets out about 11.75v under it's max load (about an amp). In case you're wondering, yes - I screwed everything down then soldered over it. Totally 100% the best connections available on the market in 2016. Oh, what's that? "Are they staples?" Yes they're staples.

In case you're wondering what I did with the old power supply - I did a quick and dirty fix and it's working again. Nobody likes de-soldering anything ever so of course it is ghetto repaired in true fashion.


For anyone wondering how the original copper clad board was made It was by using a CNC machine.


----------



## mfdoom7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperMassiveScu*
> 
> 12V power supply I was using died a sad death (diode exploded.. or.. er... imploded:
> 
> Oh dear. How sad. You know diodes also contain magic smoke much like their capacitive siblings, just not as much.
> 
> So in green hopes I decided to make a supply from a scrap of wood and whatever was within an arms reach of me at the time:
> 
> It lets out about 11.75v under it's max load (about an amp). In case you're wondering, yes - I screwed everything down then soldered over it. Totally 100% the best connections available on the market in 2016. Oh, what's that? "Are they staples?" Yes they're staples.
> 
> In case you're wondering what I did with the old power supply - I did a quick and dirty fix and it's working again. Nobody likes de-soldering anything ever so of course it is ghetto repaired in true fashion.
> 
> 
> For anyone wondering how the original copper clad board was made It was by using a CNC machine.


and no inrush current limiter resistor no wonder diode failed.


----------



## SuperMassiveScu

Blew it by shorting a M4 bolt off the top of the board and not realizing until it was too late - resistor is part of the wire going in (don't ask). No fancy thermistor though.


----------



## Mystriss

Kind of an odd question that may or may not fit here...

My husband just brought me home 40 of these cool ceramic down lights (basically to shut me up about the lack of accent lighting around the house,) problem is these sockets look completely worn out and I don't trust them. I'd like to replace the sockets but I can't find any that are on a side mounted bracket like these are. Has anyone seen anything like this anywhere, or alternately have any suggestions on something that would work in them? They're roughly 10" tall x 5.5" wide.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

The wiring on that socket is definitely toast and needs replacing. Before shelling out any shekels for new sockets, remove one and see if you can replace just the wiring (ceramic sockets sometimes have the pigtails connected to screw terminals). While the center terminal inside the socket is a bit burnt, it would be cleaned up using a pencil type typewriter eraser or some other kind of mild abrasive. If there is no hope for the socket, mayhap this one will work for you. Even though the socket is supposedly rated for 660W (that has got to be a typo and should be 60W), I would put anything bigger than a 60W incandescent bulb in there (assuming you can find any). Even a 75W CFL would be the biggest one I would put in there. LEDs run even cooler than even CFLs and I really recommend those (they also burn less juice). I prefer 2700K (Kelvin) temperature, often called Soft White. The Daylights are too harsh and a bit too bluish for my taste.

Edit: I just found another one you might be able to modify. I personally prefer ceramic over Bakelite for sockets. The mounting bracket on this one appears to be removable. If so, you just might be able to remove the mounting bracket from the old socket and put on the new one. If not, the old bracket could be removed and the bend by the socket straightened out, then replace the bracket onto the socket (don't try to bend the bracket while mounted to the socket; you might break the socket). If that puts the threaded hole for the nipple too far away from the socket, cut the end of the bracket off and use that second hole instead.


----------



## Nukemaster

Mystriss, Take out of of them and look, some of them are just brackets that hold the socket, you may be able to get replacements at the hardware store.

As Lady Fitzgerald said, you may be able to replace the wire. With modern CFL/LED bulbs once repaired those should last forever since these bulbs do not run so hot(and last long).


----------



## Mystriss

After pulling it apart I was able to do a google hunt and find them - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leviton-Porcelain-Side-Outlet-Lampholder-Light-Socket-Keyless-NO-CAP-660W-10091/351686420650?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36469%26meid%3D6e6a3f67f46a4d44bf4748c3ef53aa6b%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D350901563751

But, while it's not "quite" as simple as a screw terminal, I think I can easily solder on new wire onto the spades rather than buy all new sockets:

   

\o/

idk about the wattage, the ceramic light shade says 100W, (I think they may actually be exterior lights,) but they're perfect for my accent lighting since I can paint the shades to match the walls and they'll blend in when not on. I don't need them to be that bright - just enough to make the shade glow. I would love to have dimable LED's in these so that I can adjust them for TV watching or w/e mood lighting - off to hunt down bulb options heh

Update: OMG perfect! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B56EGN4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2HQR9PTCMY7LW&coliid=I1Q2WASLVTYALX&psc=1 8" long dimable tube LEDs!

Thanks guys!


----------



## Werne

Yeah, those wires are toast, you'll need to solder new ones. The socket itself is in a pretty decent shape though, it's ceramic housing is intact and the contacts seem perfectly fine, only charred a bit on the surface. The charred contact pad can easily be cleaned up with 500 grit sandpaper (or if you got none, a pencil eraser might work well) so you can re-use the socket itself, but the wires definitely need to go.

And now onto my woes. The fan on my 7770 died so I had to fix it...



Ripped the fan off an Athlon 64 stock cooler, screwed it onto a clear piece of plastic I cut from a box one of my GlideStreams came in, screwed that piece of clear plastic onto the card using the three screws which hold the shroud (the fourth screw crapped out so I had to tape the plastic down on that side). And to make sure the fan doesn't blow through various openings on my crappy mounting system, I wrapped everything in electrical tape. Fan runs at 7V since it keeps it at relatively high RPM but not high enough to make it sound like a hairdryer.

Then my keyboard's leg broke so that needed to be fixed as well...



Rolled up some electrical tape to use as support, wrapped into more electrical tape.

Finally, my exhaust fan's bearing decided to crap out some more so now even my rubber band vibration dampeners don't help enough, that damn bearing was driving me nuts. Since I couldn't go out and buy a new fan, I had to make do with what I got, which ain't much...



That would be an old lace from my boot and the key part in making this fan quiet again. The idea was to use the thing to make something like those Noctua rubber grommets and while mine are built on a shoestring budget, they almost works just as well.




The idea was sound but the execution was a bit sloppy and my strings ended up being a tad shorter than I hoped they'd be. I must admit, tying a fan and it's grill onto a case with a piece of string that's barely long enough to do so is a major pain in the arse. And surprisingly, this worked better than expected, I thought the noise reduction would be minimal due to that shoestring not being elastic but vibration noise got eliminated almost completely, now all I can hear is air passing through the grill unless I put my ear to it. I love it.


----------



## Nukemaster

Mystriss, It looks like it came apart pretty well. I do not see rivets(just screws) so can you replace the wires and rebuild those. I can not see those being outdoor lights(do they say suitable for damp or did they have a NOT on the other line?), but 100 watts was a pretty common MAX for many lights for a long time. It may not hurt to check the local hardware store, you may be able to get something that works as well.

Those led tubes are interesting looking. I wonder how they will look. I have seen many of these older looking style led bulbs, but never actually seen one used in person(or just did not notice it).

Werne, Good use of an old AMD fan and that is one beat up looking lace. Good work








I also love the avatar.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> ...Update: OMG perfect! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B56EGN4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2HQR9PTCMY7LW&coliid=I1Q2WASLVTYALX&psc=1 8" long dimable tube LEDs!
> 
> Thanks guys!


I'm glad you found such a simple (albeit tedious) solution to repairing the sockets.

I suggest you buy just one of those LEDs to make sure you like the color temperature before buying any more.


----------



## Mystriss

Yeah it'll take a little time, but it did come apart easy and frankly, if I do it myself then I'll /know/ its well done so I'm alright with it.

We prefer the whiter/cooler lighting, we've swapped almost everything in the house to 5k. All I have left is soft pink bulbs in my kitchen and dining room hanging lights - which are bare bulb types so the 5k was too harsh on the eyes. I went ahead and ordered one of the LED tube bulbs and a special LED dimmer switch to test it out in the dining room, I'm just shooting light up onto an architectural element in there so it's a small project perfect for testing.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yeah it'll take a little time, but it did come apart easy and frankly, if I do it myself then I'll /know/ its well done so I'm alright with it.
> 
> We prefer the whiter/cooler lighting, we've swapped almost everything in the house to 5k. All I have left is soft pink bulbs in my kitchen and dining room hanging lights - which are bare bulb types so the 5k was too harsh on the eyes. I went ahead and ordered one of the LED tube bulbs and a special LED dimmer switch to test it out in the dining room, I'm just shooting light up onto an architectural element in there so it's a small project perfect for testing.


It appears you are like me with more time than money.







It looks like you have an excellent handle on this! Btw, I would call this clever repurposing, not ghetto rigging.


----------



## Mystriss

Meh I have time and money, but doing it myself gives a certain self-satisfaction and security that I prefer, but yea, its not really ghetto rigging anymore, just simple soldering


----------



## Pawelr98

New motor with RPM reductor (1:8 reduction, motor spins the same 2800RPM as previous one but you get 350RPM on shaft).
Plastic bags I use for covering the batteries and other parts from rain when parked.

I also purchased some steel rods which will be used to protect the batteries from any theft.
Connected with this steel 8mm chain you see on top of bats it should offer decent protection.

On the back there's also 10mm chain for general protection from theft (it really takes some time to cut it using even large shears for metal).


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New motor with RPM reductor (1:8 reduction, motor spins the same 2800RPM as previous one but you get 350RPM on shaft).
> Plastic bags I use for covering the batteries and other parts from rain when parked.
> 
> I also purchased some steel rods which will be used to protect the batteries from any theft.
> Connected with this steel 8mm chain you see on top of bats it should offer decent protection.
> 
> On the back there's also 10mm chain for general protection from theft (it really takes some time to cut it using even large shears for metal).


Wow those batteries are pretty far back. Looks like that new frame will never break.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yeah it'll take a little time, but it did come apart easy and frankly, if I do it myself then I'll /know/ its well done so I'm alright with it.
> 
> We prefer the whiter/cooler lighting, we've swapped almost everything in the house to 5k. All I have left is soft pink bulbs in my kitchen and dining room hanging lights - which are bare bulb types so the 5k was too harsh on the eyes. I went ahead and ordered one of the LED tube bulbs and a special LED dimmer switch to test it out in the dining room, I'm just shooting light up onto an architectural element in there so it's a small project perfect for testing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It appears you are like me with more time than money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you have an excellent handle on this! Btw, I would call this clever repurposing, not ghetto rigging.
Click to expand...

correct, to be truly ghetto would of needed to leave old wiring with something like pastidip them to "prevent" shorts


----------



## yeliyayue

This is what happens when someone challenges a ghetto rigger by saying "there's no way a 2c server board can fit in a corsair 200r" haha!!! :->....


----------



## Powerg4

Crazy setup there!









Here is my latest ghetto rigging!
So basically I was trying to reuse an old heat sink from an OEM HP desktop on my new project. Problem was the adhesive on the metal back plate that stops the metal from shorting out the mainboard is one use only and was destroyed upon removal of the plate from the original mainboard.

So I stuffed some foam sheet under it instead, hope it doesn't melt but we will find out soon enough!









Also upgraded the 1.8 celeron to a 3.6ghz Pentium 4 I pulled from an old computer, if I can get some more RAM it might be enough to run ubuntu!


----------



## r333xxh4v0k

heres my ghetto rigging submission, got caught in a pinch & had to do some quick thinking... zip ties & a couple bread ties (for good measure lol) holding some vram heatsinks on.


----------



## mr squishy

You guys are gonna love this one. I bought a 560 ti 448 cores that had a broken stock cooler, so I secured a 120mm fan and one of the fans that came with the broken cooler to it, as well as the led that came with the original cooler. I then did a cooler swap with a dead 480.
pics:



cooler swap:


----------



## Powerg4

Now that's some ghetto dedication


----------



## shredded

Cant fit fans Push/Pull in case.
No problem, cut hole in case.





Dropped CPU temps 18*C on hot day (standard clocks)
Now overclocked to 4.1 and GPU +160mhz or so and stay 10*C lower than before on standard clocks.

Saved 500AUD or so, as i was going to go custom watercooling loop.

Edit: They are not actually attached to radiator. Only had 6 screws so i just put the rubber anti vibration things through the holes and sit them on top. Does the trick


----------



## yeliyayue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shredded*
> 
> Cant fit fans Push/Pull in case.
> No problem, cut hole in case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dropped CPU temps 18*C on hot day (standard clocks)
> Now overclocked to 4.1 and GPU +160mhz or so and stay 10*C lower than before on standard clocks.
> 
> Saved 500AUD or so, as i was going to go custom watercooling loop.
> 
> Edit: They are not actually attached to radiator. Only had 6 screws so i just put the rubber anti vibration things through the holes and sit them on top. Does the trick


Nice supra and aio mod








I did something similar before I switched to a server board.


Removed the hdd cage and mounted fans inside. And sandwiched the rad up front.
Then mounted the hdd's upside down to the top of the case where the fans usually go.

The rad had some air flow issues, I was going to modify some extra mesh vent holes but never got around to it and just left the face plate off. :/


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Needed to test a PCIe sound card for a future Pico ITX build so I used my laptops Mini PCIe using a Mini PCIe to PCIe x1 adapter , 12V was from a PSU but soon will be from USB via a boost converter .


----------



## animal0307

I'm down sizing to Mini-ITX and I want to know if a single 120m rad with a single fan can handle my GTX 670 at full OC. Since I only have a 240mm I taped off one side. Right now I don't have my CPU in the loop and it's out in the wide open so it's getting way more airflow than in my case but for now it gives me a rough enough idea to work. I don't care about temps as much as I care about noise levels.


----------



## Nukemaster

I have a single 120mm rad(LQ310 with a single AP15) on a 670









That is a thick rad and even with tape, I let that side dissipates a good bit of heat.


----------



## animal0307

Ya it does. I had it just sitting with no fans on it and my 670 only peaked at 42C after 45 mins of light web surfing.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Directly soldered cables to a 350W PSU for the 12V rails to provide power for two 6 pin Pcie plugs and a Pico ITX board , Also adapted a PCIe x1 adapter for a 16x Graphics card so I can run it from the Pico .


----------



## Boinz

http://i.imgur.com/TnQRX6v.webm


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Directly soldered cables to a 350W PSU for the 12V rails to provide power for two 6 pin Pcie plugs and a Pico ITX board , Also adapted a PCIe x1 adapter for a 16x Graphics card so I can run it from the Pico .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: you might faint


Wait&#8230; your PC is smaller than your GPU? Building a GPU-sized gaming system? This project is thoroughly cool, but mind putting it in context to help appreciate it properly?


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/TnQRX6v.webm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Wait&#8230; your PC is smaller than your GPU? Building a GPU-sized gaming system? This project is thoroughly cool, but mind putting it in context to help appreciate it properly?


Probably should have explained why I did it first , then showed it : P .

That would be cool but I don't think the N3150 CPU would do well : D , Its main purpose was for GPU folding while trying to keep it as small as possible , The GPU it the largest part of the whole thing , while the Pico ITX is there just to run windows and the folding program


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Probably should have explained why I did it first , then showed it : P .
> 
> That would be cool but I don't think the N3150 CPU would do well : D , Its main purpose was for GPU folding while trying to keep it as small as possible , The GPU it the largest part of the whole thing , while the Pico ITX is there just to run windows and the folding program


This is crazy. Micro folding machine deserves a special place on your team's roster.


----------



## Cyrious

I got some new ghetto involving an old project of mine I havent managed to get around to properly finishing.

BEHOLD! THE DUMPSTER COMPUTER!


The actual "dumpster" itself was part of a high school shop class project, done by another student (my own project was a smaller and somewhat simpler metal box). He didnt want it after he got graded for his work, so I asked if I could have it, and he said sure. First thing I did on getting it was drill ATX compatible holes into the back of it, followed by making and riveting in a self-made 6-drive 3.5" drive rack. I followed that up with the drilling of 4 more holes to allow the internal installation of a compatible 5.25" device flat against the inside of the front of the case.

Later, I did a rather ugly hackjob in adding in the PSU mounting and vent holes, and carved in a somewhat workable 120mm fan slot, so exhaust is possible. What I failed to take into account though when I drilled the initial motherboard holes was how close the back panel would be to the top of the case, and now there's no room until i get around to dremeling off the strip of metal blocking access to those ports.

Motherboard mounting is done through use of a pair of standoffs for each hole; one on the inside of the case for the normal screws to attach to, and one on the outside to secure the inside ones.

Things that need to be done before this case can truly be considered one:
-Finish dremeling the exhaust 120mm fan port so its not partially blocked
-Re-carve the PSU mounting area so its much less blocked,
-Dremel out the strip thats blocking the ports
-Dremel in the pair of 120mm intake fans
-Figure out a way to allow internal hard mounting of a single video card, as I have access to a PCI-E ribbon cable.
-Run some more masking tape around the rim of the opening to null out the slight buzzing the lid gives when its running.
-get the standard power/reset/power LED/HDD LED things and install them

No external pics yet, I need to find my bottle of isopropyl and wash the sharpie off the top of the lid.


----------



## Pawelr98

Purchased cheapo toolbox(very cheapo, 20PLN(3.86PLN/USD so ~5.2USD) for bundle that had second smaller toolbox inside) to store batteries(3x 12V 20AH agm lead-acid batteries) and PWM controller for my e-bike.


On side there's XLR connector for charger.

And here is thing I welded to secure the box from getting stolen.

Chain has 8mm diamater so it's not easy to cut through without some proper tools.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> This is crazy. Micro folding machine deserves a special place on your team's roster.


Thanks , This is the finished setup -

Running Win10 , Boinc


__
https://flic.kr/p/G3s2uc


__
https://flic.kr/p/G3s2uc
 by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr


__
https://flic.kr/p/GPBg8q


__
https://flic.kr/p/GPBg8q
 by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr


----------



## Master__Shake

no pics sorry.

i am using a steamlink as a "team-viewing" device so i can have my pc in a rack and use the steamlink as the "head"

just minimize big picture mode.










it's pretty quick not the best solution though.

also not sure if ghetto.


----------



## Torvi

brainstormed some idea for a custom pc shroud that would cover all the unnecessary mess in my case.



Case is thermaltake core v21, the turquoise ring is my intake fan, gray piece of shroud would cover motherboard to the point that only gpu would be visible from my window, then rear would be covered with black panel with cut hole for gpu cables the 3 square things by the fan are stickers for i5, amd and w10

those three:



now what is left to chose is material, im more for picking up some cardboard pieces from work and spray paint them, this way in case im going to change gpu and position of connectors will change i can always just cover up the hole and cut another one and also it will be free of charge (excluding spray paint and some newspaper as a painting base)

i am also looking after giving it a "rugged" look maybe which is quite simple to make (stick the newspaper bit to still wet paint and take it off) or just leave it nicely done


----------



## Torvi

I am back! with some progress as well!

I have got around with some thin cardboard for sketch purposes, well I'm kind of happy with the result, means it does what and almost "how" I want to do it, it will require few tweaks here and there but! there is a progress!.
Don't mind the colours, its actually heavily green inside.
Going to run prime 95 to check if temps wont be higher than how they were before, if everything will be same or even if they will get better ill progress with my mod, if not then ill put some changes.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Case too small, used an angle grinder..


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

@Pawelr98 What motor did you use for your bike? I've considered to do the same.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> @Pawelr98 What motor did you use for your bike? I've considered to do the same.


Well I used MY1016Z. 36V and 250W.
350RPM nominal on output shaft (it has RPM reductor, motor inside runs at 2800RPM).
250W is bit low(problematic to ride on even light uphill) but law in poland won't allow more.
500W is sweetspot (~40km/h on flat road) but remember that PWM controller can always limit the power.
That's why you should aim for 500+W if law permits it.

Orginal gear has 9 teeth and is aligned to fit bicycle chain.
It only requires grinding because teeth are bit too thick and chain locks up (the narrower gaps in some segments are too small for them).
I would also add some additional grease to RPM reductor as some parts of it have too littles grease(pull out the big gear(you will know once you open the reductor) and add grease into bearing under it).

And remember not to stress motor too much. One of my first successfull rides with this motor ended up with smoke coming out of it







due to too low reduction.
Calculate reduction before ordering/mounting anything. Then do a short ride to check how are motor temperatures.

The most recent photo.


And as my purchased charger was malfunctioning sometimes (44.2V output causing 15+V one one of 12V batteries) I build one myself.


At primary you have four 33 ohm 5W resistors in series to reduce voltage a bit.

Then at secondary you have rectifier rated for 3A, 680uF 200V capacitor and 6 diodes to reduce output voltage even more (each reduces 0.7V).
Transformer is 230V/42V but the rectifier+capacitor normally would stabilize voltage at peak (poland has peak AC of 325V so secondary has peak of 60V(in reality 63-64V)) which due to load drops to somehwere around 47-50V.
Both diodes and resistors reduce this to 43V which is good for charging.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Thanks a lot. Where did you get the motor? Do you think I can find one for free from the stuff people throw out?

I'll probably put car batteries in series for power, but that might get a little expensive.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Ran out of regular size PSUs.


----------



## davcc22

usb headset broke sound card on the saburetooth was bung so i hacked the headset up for its dac what insued was awesome


----------



## Nukemaster

Torvi,
Is your board laying down or is the video card on a riser? I have no window in my cases(ok the Antec 900 does) so I do not need to worry about what it looks like









Pawelr98,
They have to make a switching regulator that can do that job for you









TheLAWNOOB,
That works. I have a power supply sitting on top of a computer instead.

davcc22,
Integration at work. You can even have volume switches by the look of the board. May want to shorten those wires so they do not have a chance to short out(but it may be lest ghetto).


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Thanks a lot. Where did you get the motor? Do you think I can find one for free from the stuff people throw out?
> 
> I'll probably put car batteries in series for power, but that might get a little expensive.


I have three 20AH Lead-acid AGM batteries in series to power my e-bike.

I purchased the motor from a company("Magma") which is pretty much only importer of these motors in Poland.

They are also available at ebay but at higher prices than the company I purchased from.
I paid 150PLN + shipping(15 PLN). Equivalent of 43USD from that day(PLN/USD jumps a lot these days).

If you want to then it's also possible to buy a motor without RPM reductor(MY1016), they are cheaper and more common.
But then you have 2800rpm on output as well as different gear(11T which uses pocketbike chain). A common solution is purchasing 80T gear for the wheel.
11:80 is pretty much the same as 1:8 in the models with rpm reductor.
350RPM on wheel is rather hard to reach so in such case motor may be overheating a bit after longer rides(+ higher power consumption).
That's why it's better to get motor with rpm reductor.

As for salvaging parts.
I don't think you will be able to find such thing. Any engine starters will overheat.
Chance of finding exact motor as I'm talking about is nearly zero.
Unless you have some source of industrial scrap. Electric pumps, electric tools and stuff like that may get you somewhere.

One thing you may look for is starter relays. If you won't use deticated motor controller then it will be handy.
Deticated e-bike controller come with on/off switch while generic PWM controllers don't come with such functionality.
They still draw some power even with potentiometer turned to zero.
Example price of 350W 36V deticated controller is 65PLN while universal 15A PWM controller(up to 90V) is ~20PLN when purchased from china (I purchased in poland so I paid 42PLN for mine).
But remember that they(starter relays) were not meant for extended operation. They heat a lot so you will need some big radiator for it.

I use 24V Scania truck starter relay(god only knows how this thing ended up in my house, no one in family drives/owns a truck). Coil draws more than 20W and even with radiator it gets quite hot.


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Torvi,
> Is your board laying down or is the video card on a riser? I have no window in my cases(ok the Antec 900 does) so I do not need to worry about what it looks like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pawelr98,
> They have to make a switching regulator that can do that job for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TheLAWNOOB,
> That works. I have a power supply sitting on top of a computer instead.
> 
> davcc22,
> Integration at work. You can even have volume switches by the look of the board. May want to shorten those wires so they do not have a chance to short out(but it may be lest ghetto).


i will im going to hack my mech keyboard and put it in there with 2 3.5mm sockets for headphones lol http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/Plugs%2C-Sockets-%26-Adaptors/Phono/2-5MM-Socket---Mono-Switched/p/PS0105


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davcc22*
> 
> i will im going to hack my mech keyboard and put it in there with 2 3.5mm sockets for headphones lol http://www.jaycar.com.au/Interconnect/Plugs%2C-Sockets-%26-Adaptors/Phono/2-5MM-Socket---Mono-Switched/p/PS0105


Your link is 2.5mm mono jacks.
Better watch out since you will need 3.5. They have lots on ebay(of different quality) and even local stores may have ones that are fully open(take less space). Getting through hold with a nut to hold it does make life much more easy(but even board mount with the threaded end and nut should work well.).

That is going to be pretty cool to see when it is done. Are you going to run another usb or use a hub inside the keyboard as well?


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Torvi,
> Is your board laying down or is the video card on a riser? I have no window in my cases(ok the Antec 900 does) so I do not need to worry about what it looks like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pawelr98,
> They have to make a switching regulator that can do that job for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TheLAWNOOB,
> That works. I have a power supply sitting on top of a computer instead.
> 
> davcc22,
> Integration at work. You can even have volume switches by the look of the board. May want to shorten those wires so they do not have a chance to short out(but it may be lest ghetto).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Your link is 2.5mm mono jacks.
> Better watch out since you will need 3.5. They have lots on ebay(of different quality) and even local stores may have ones that are fully open(take less space). Getting through hold with a nut to hold it does make life much more easy(but even board mount with the threaded end and nut should work well.).
> 
> That is going to be pretty cool to see when it is done. Are you going to run another usb or use a hub inside the keyboard as well?


most likely a different cable


----------



## RockeyDA

Ok so i have bin out the ghetto rigging game for a while but junk day week just happend and it was time!

So i found this snow thrower, and other than some bad gas and a bad gas line it works! the gas line fell apart near the tank, did not have any to replace with so i shortend it and moved the tank, after some rubber bands my problem was solved, no more shovelling snow! also i have a new camera and by new i mean and old camera one of my friends did not want for reasons i cant understand.



in my trash picking dream land i finally found a power weels, actually i found 2!


but i only needed one so i made 1 that is comfortable to ride and haveing 2 motors gave it a bit more torque. all my apc batteries suck but one, and the one is kinda screwie, well i combined that with a large car battery to get 24v and this thing flew, for a bout a second then when i let go of the pedal the batteries flew out of the hood and my only good apc batt hit the ground and quit working, sounds like a maraca if you shake it :c and the big car battery weighs so much i cant go up hill with it by it self. i wish i could get a hold of 2 good lead acid apc batteries but until then my project is going behind the shed.



Another thing that kinda sucks is the back wheels keep fallling off, but im holding them on with hotglue and tape, nither work, and i have not had any money to spend other then buss tokens to get to work in more than 3 months's so i cant afford a tube of JB weld right now. in june im gonna get slammed with hours then im gonna try getting full time in a lower department then bid my way back were im at now and make over dubble the money, that will take a few years to completely pull off, but then i could afford computer hardware agin! or maby even a car!(i hate taking the bus and every day i grow more and more pissed of at thoes who just drive to work before they clock in! i could leave at 8:30 instead of 7:30)

Finnaly, there is something really wrong in this pic, im curious if any of you can spot the detail, so far no one i showed has.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Thanks , This is the finished setup -
> 
> Running Win10 , Boinc
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/G3s2uc
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/G3s2uc
> by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/GPBg8q
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/GPBg8q
> by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr


dose that work? 80% of the pci-e slot is not being used! and it it dose, how stable is it? and dose it impact performance if it is stable?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


>


how the hell did you break the polymer on the bodyguard? Also I'm pretty sure is not legal to not have at least one full magazine on hand if not it should be...

He's using a riser so it likely runs at x4 not x8 or x16


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> dose that work? 80% of the pci-e slot is not being used! and it it dose, how stable is it? and dose it impact performance if it is stable?


Works perfectly fine , its been running for over 14 days 24/7 with no issues running collatz taks non stop with no satiability issues . There is no need to run 16x lanes for what I'm doing as a 1x is more than enough , The GPU will run on 1x with no problems as all it will see is a slower link to the PC

For single taks there is no perfornace impact at all , gaming and that would be impacted but as its a folding machine only I don't have to worrie about that .


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so i saved my poorly tuned woofer box and got my 18 sounding like an 18 without rebuilding, had just enough scrap wood from original cuts to pull it off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now dew to lack of proper tools my box is way crooked, 23" on one side 24" on the other, so this pice did not fit right, so i screwed it down and filled the gaps with great stuff since glue wouldnt of done anything for most of the gaps being 1/4 an inch think or so.
> 
> 
> and here is a little before and after of just the sundown.
> 
> 
> doing a tone sweep did not impress me, but once i went to actual music, my mind was blown.
> im missing out above 40hz alot compared to blow, but 40-20hz is crazy loud now, every door in the house rattles. i can pick up the missing notes with my alpine with i plan to do when i get home from work.
> first 2 songs i played that wowed me were "Big Kurt - My Sub" and "Young Jeezy - What I Do (Just Like That)"
> still aint hittin the low low in big kurt my sub so definitely still gonna try and build a T-Line.
> 
> my next post will probably be on the scrap kicker, as i plan on putting that thing in custom built box and seeing what it can do.


If above 40Hz is weak, then you getting some killer box rise. And if you're resonant at 20Hz, then the tuning is WAY too low, unless thats what you want. In car audio, Ive noticed anything tuned 30 - 35Hz usually sounds really good and is somewhat balanced in output. Until 60Hz or so when it starts to cut off hard.


----------



## yeliyayue

Here's a cool link on Pci-e scaling https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/AMD/R9_Fury_X_PCI-Express_Scaling/18.html


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> how the hell did you break the polymer on the bodyguard? Also I'm pretty sure is not legal to not have at least one full magazine on hand if not it should be...
> 
> He's using a riser so it likely runs at x4 not x8 or x16


its not broke, that part of the grip is on the clip, and you didn't see what was wrong.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> If above 40Hz is weak, then you getting some killer box rise. And if you're resonant at 20Hz, then the tuning is WAY too low, unless thats what you want. In car audio, Ive noticed anything tuned 30 - 35Hz usually sounds really good and is somewhat balanced in output. Until 60Hz or so when it starts to cut off hard.


i have an alpine 15"for the 40-60 range and 2 fisher 15's for the 60-100. so all notes above 18 hz rattle your brains out


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeliyayue*
> 
> Here's a cool link on Pci-e scaling https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/AMD/R9_Fury_X_PCI-Express_Scaling/18.html


how about Fermi nvidia cards?


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> He's using a riser so it likely runs at x4 not x8 or x16


If that was aimed at my build , im using a mini pcie to pcie x1 adapter with the back cut out , the link is running at x1 1.1 only


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i have an alpine 15"for the 40-60 range and 2 fisher 15's for the 60-100. so all notes above 18 hz rattle your brains out


Hell yeah, I've got one HCCA 12", and it does this by itself...


----------



## yeliyayue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> how about Fermi nvidia cards?


It would effect Fermi even less.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Hell yeah, I've got one HCCA 12", and it does this by itself...


i will only need 1 sub when ever i get to building a T-line, and then i would hit an octive below tuning, tune to fs, fs is 21hz, that means i could go down to 10.5hz, only one problem, im really really broke and i would need to build a box thats 25cu ft.... THATS ALOT OF WOOD :C even more if i try and cut 45's if it werent for tax returens and a few odd jobs that poped up i would not have the alpine or the sundown or the amps that power them.

my current box is maid out of dumpster diving wood, but im having a hard time finding large sheets and having a hard time to find remotely enough.
my sub running off a 1500 w amp but on a powersupply that only puts out 100amps on 12-14.4v and usaly stays around 13v 



so my amp cant quite do its thing but still gets job done!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> its not broke, that part of the grip is on the clip, and you didn't see what was wrong.


You have the same screw driver as me? The one without the blood, and is it the blood? The dog comb?


----------



## Nukemaster

They had LOTS of screwdrivers that looked like that years ago. I think everyone was making them.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> You have the same screw driver as me? The one without the blood, and is it the blood? The dog comb?


ok, i will give you a hint, look at the clip, also blood dose not look like that when it drys, thats spray paint.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> ok, i will give you a hint, look at the clip, also blood dose not look like that when it drys, thats spray paint.


how in the hell did that get folded closed?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> how in the hell did that get folded closed?


huh?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> ok, i will give you a hint, look at the clip, also blood dose not look like that when it drys, thats spray paint.


Bullet tip looks like it was sawed off.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Bullet tip looks like it was sawed off.


you so close to the detail, but no there just hallow tip. i go on break agin at 3:00 and if no one spotted whats incredibly wrong ile just say it!

also question, say i have a motherboard with one of thoes tiny pci-e slots, if i cut the back plastic off and shove a gpu in the slot would it work?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> you so close to the detail, but no there just hallow tip. i go on break agin at 3:00 and if no one spotted whats incredibly wrong ile just say it!
> 
> also question, say i have a motherboard with one of thoes tiny pci-e slots, if i cut the back plastic off and shove a gpu in the slot would it work?


At this point it looks like you're going to drive that power wheels GTA style.

If you mean the PCIe x1 slot, it should work, just make sure you screw the card down real good since it won't have the clip holding it in place.


----------



## Werne

Stuff I did since last time...



Spoiler: New case for my HTPC



It took me only two years to make it, partly because I was saving up money for a variable input PicoPSU, partly because I'm lazy. Anyway, pics...




The case was an old satellite receiver, people buy these cheap craps then throw them away in a few months cause half the channels don't work, this one was big enough for a mITX PC case and it looks good on top of my crappy ol' VHS. And if you're wondering about it, that weird-looking audio cable is a 2m long 3x0.75mm power cable from a clothes iron which I soldered onto a 3.5mm headphone jack, with it's female equivalent soldered on the other end. Got tired of my crappy audio extension cable breaking (wires were so bad they could be attracted by a magnet) so I fixed it permanently.

By the way, I got another satellite receiver that looks exactly the same, just a different brand. One of these days I'll turn that into a PC case as well, only I'll put a real PC inside (with a CPU+GPU with as much performance as possible in a 200W power budget). However, unless AMD/Nvidia/Intel start a "buy one, pay none" promotion in the near future, I won't make it anytime soon since I got neither money nor parts for it at the time being.

Onto the insides:



I used the receiver's original front panel circuitry for the PC, just soldered wires to the switches and LEDs, can't take a pic of it cause the PicoPSU and cabling is in the way. The black square thing next to the board is a $1 USB wifi dongle on which I soldered an antenna from a router, then crammed it into a project box (I think I posted the thing already). And the stuff wrapped around the CPU fan is bubble wrap the PicoPSU came in, I needed an air duct to make sure the CPU fan takes air from the outside so it doesn't hit mid to high 50s, as the PicoPSU and power brick heat up like crazy. Also, the zip-tied fan.

After assembling everything I noticed there was a problem. When I came up with the case, I didn't think of a way to mount the laptop charger as it was initially supposed to be external, a plan I changed later on after it's cable crapped out. At first I thought I'd use double-sided tape and put it between the SSD and board but I ran out of it so I ended up taping it on top of an SSD using electrical tape (with two sheets of paper between the two to prevent shorts).



It stays in place so it's good enough.

Unfortunately, the TV died a few days after I finished the PC so it's currently pretty much useless.













Spoiler: An engraver made out of cardboard and some random crap





Built it out of a head motor from a floppy drive, insides of a row terminal as head, USB cable for power, lever microswitch (also from a floppy drive), cardboard as a handle, tip of a broken 1.5mm drill bit to engrave with, and a whole lot of electrical tape to hold it all together.

Works a bit better than how you'd expect a pile of garbage held together by tape to work. Not bad.





Spoiler: Fixing dead RAM





Two days ago I was met with no boot or beep on my 775 system, narrowed it down to the above DIMM as removing it is the only thing that makes the PC post. Tried cleaning it's contact pads with rakia, changing slots, even sticking it into another board, nothing helped.

So... time to wrap it up in tinfoil and stick it into an oven.











Set the oven to 175C, baked for 5m. RAM (as well as my kitchen) ended up smelling horribly cause I forgot to clean out the burnt chocolate that dripped onto the bottom of the oven when I was baking chocolate buns the day before. Oops. Disregarding that horrible stench I stuck the DIMM into the slot, pressed the power button and the PC posted, after which I ran Memtest and it passed.



Still stinks but I don't mind that so long as the thing works.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Finnaly, there is something really wrong in this pic, im curious if any of you can spot the detail, so far no one i showed has.


The round in the clip is backwards.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> The round in the clip is backwards.


You mean the magazine? Not many guns use "clips"...


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Stuff I did since last time...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New case for my HTPC
> 
> 
> 
> It took me only two years to make it, partly because I was saving up money for a variable input PicoPSU, partly because I'm lazy. Anyway, pics...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The case was an old satellite receiver, people buy these cheap craps then throw them away in a few months cause half the channels don't work, this one was big enough for a mITX PC case and it looks good on top of my crappy ol' VHS. And if you're wondering about it, that weird-looking audio cable is a 2m long 3x0.75mm power cable from a clothes iron which I soldered onto a 3.5mm headphone jack, with it's female equivalent soldered on the other end. Got tired of my crappy audio extension cable breaking (wires were so bad they could be attracted by a magnet) so I fixed it permanently.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I got another satellite receiver that looks exactly the same, just a different brand. One of these
> 
> days I'll turn that into a PC case as well, only I'll put a real PC inside (with a CPU+GPU with as much performance as possible in a 200W power budget). However, unless AMD/Nvidia/Intel start a "buy one, pay none" promotion in the near future, I won't make it anytime soon since I got neither money nor parts for it at the time being.
> 
> Onto the insides:
> 
> 
> 
> I used the receiver's original front panel circuitry for the PC, just soldered wires to the switches and LEDs, can't take a pic of it cause the PicoPSU and cabling is in the way. The black square thing next to the board is a $1 USB wifi dongle on which I soldered an antenna from a router, then crammed it into a project box (I think I posted the thing already). And the stuff wrapped around the CPU fan is bubble wrap the PicoPSU came in, I needed an air duct to make sure the CPU fan takes air from the outside so it doesn't hit mid to high 50s, as the PicoPSU and power brick heat up like crazy. Also, the zip-tied fan.
> 
> After assembling everything I noticed there was a problem. When I came up with the case, I didn't think of a way to mount the laptop charger as it was initially supposed to be external, a plan I changed later on after it's cable crapped out. At first I thought I'd use double-sided tape and put it between the SSD and board but I ran out of it so I ended up taping it on top of an SSD using electrical tape (with two sheets of paper between the two to prevent shorts).
> 
> 
> 
> It stays in place so it's good enough.
> 
> Unfortunately, the TV died a few days after I finished the PC so it's currently pretty much useless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: An engraver made out of cardboard and some random crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Built it out of a head motor from a floppy drive, insides of a row terminal as head, USB cable for power, lever microswitch (also from a floppy drive), cardboard as a handle, tip of a broken 1.5mm drill bit to engrave with, and a whole lot of electrical tape to hold it all together.
> 
> Works a bit better than how you'd expect a pile of garbage held together by tape to work. Not bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fixing dead RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two days ago I was met with no boot or beep on my 775 system, narrowed it down to the above DIMM as removing it is the only thing that makes the PC post. Tried cleaning it's contact pads with rakia, changing slots, even sticking it into another board, nothing helped.
> 
> So... time to wrap it up in tinfoil and stick it into an oven.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Set the oven to 175C, baked for 5m. RAM (as well as my kitchen) ended up smelling horribly cause I forgot to clean out the burnt chocolate that dripped onto the bottom of the oven when I was baking chocolate buns the day before. Oops. Disregarding that horrible stench I stuck the DIMM into the slot, pressed the power button and the PC posted, after which I ran Memtest and it passed.
> 
> 
> 
> Still stinks but I don't mind that so long as the thing works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The round in the clip is backwards.


WINNER WINNER CHIKEN DINNER!!!, and who cares, i call them clips and every one knows what i mean. and to a responce some else said, aobut that should be eligal, you would not like one of my closest firends. he as an auto ak-47 and he keeps 3 naner clips taped together! but the auto 308 is his big boy gun! mean while i just got a 20 gadge and a 12 im borrowing, the 12 was modifed to hold 6 rounds but im so cheep/broke i never put more than 2 at a time









and adding more ghetto, best way of starting a mower with no rip cord! when ever i get an adapter to i can connect a hose to my air compressor im gonna cram air directy in the air intake and see if i canr ev it higher (dont care if i kill it, got it out of trash)


----------



## DogeTactical

So my Linux box didnt have a exhaust fan, nor did I have any fans but a old cpu fan so I decided to rig it up












Zip ties holding it on


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeTactical*
> 
> So my Linux box didnt have a exhaust fan, nor did I have any fans but a old cpu fan so I decided to rig it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zip ties holding it on


looks alot like the gateway i keep in my bedroom, just make it 4 ram slots and give it 3 ide hard drives and a ati aiw x800! ahh gaming on that rig, 12v rail always ran at 11.5v my cpu over heated alot, so i did something similar... guss i will post when i get home and forget i typed this!


----------



## DogeTactical

I wanna get a graphics card for it but it would have to be AGP or PCI and idk what to get thats fairly cheap:headscrat


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeTactical*
> 
> I wanna get a graphics card for it but it would have to be AGP or PCI and idk what to get thats fairly cheap:headscrat


What games you trying to run on it? What CPU?


----------



## DogeTactical

Sempron 3100+ and I dont know yet really anything
Im not sure if i really need a gpu im gonna test some games I have that are for windows xp and see how they run


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeTactical*
> 
> Sempron 3100+ and I dont know yet really anything
> Im not sure if i really need a gpu im gonna test some games I have that are for windows xp and see how they run


They have a agp 3850 with. Dual orb cooler for like 65 on ebay. It's the best agp card ever made lol.


----------



## Tripnode




----------



## DogeTactical

Okay right now Im doing a fresh install of win xp on it because the one on it was full of crap


----------



## Pawelr98

From now this small mosfet transistor will replace previous heavy inefficient(20+W for coil) relay.

I still need to find some high value(friend suggested 200k ohm) resistor to connect it between gate and source.
Without it the mosfet won't discharge and will still conduct even with power disconnected.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeTactical*
> 
> Sempron 3100+ and I dont know yet really anything
> Im not sure if i really need a gpu im gonna test some games I have that are for windows xp and see how they run


I've got an radeon x1300 if you're in the states and want it posy shipping and its yours


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> From now this small mosfet transistor will replace previous heavy inefficient(20+W for coil) relay.
> 
> I still need to find some high value(friend suggested 200k ohm) resistor to connect it between gate and source.
> Without it the mosfet won't discharge and will still conduct even with power disconnected.


What you're describing is a pulldown resistor to ground (Source). The specific value of this will be dependent on your source voltage (Vin, applied to the Gate) and the Gate-Source threshold voltage of the MOSFET (Vgs, found on the data sheet). You can make a simple voltage divider from 2 resistors to accomplish the required result, one between the input and the gate (R1), the other between the gate and source (R2). The total resistance of these should be large, to limit current and hence power dissipation. R2 should probably be at least 10K or so (this should be fine for using 1/4 Watt resistors for Vin < 50V). From there, find the minimum and maximum values for the Gate-Source threshold voltage (datasheet) and average them, R1 can then be calculated as ((Vin - Vgs) * R2) / Vgs) using the average from before.

Also, if your load is inductive (motor, solenoid) you may need to connect an additional flyback path to discharge the coil safely.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

I was in Ace Hardware the other day looking for a replacement dimmer switch for my porch light. The old one looks like a regular toggle switch but the toggle also adjusts the amount of dimming. I put it and the porch light in almost twenty years ago. I spotted a cute one that was similar to the old one but the toggle was a bit narrower than normal and was just used to turn the light on and off. A tiny slider was alongside the toggle for adjusting the amount of dimming. What I really liked about that setup is I could set the amount of dimming I wanted for normal use of the porch light (just bright enough for me to see to safely get back into the house at night without disturbing the neighbors since I keep a 100 watt halogen bulb in the fixture for when I really need to see well) and it would keep that setting instead of me having to hang out the door so I can see the light while I fiddle with the setting everytime I turned the light on. So, I snagged that little puppy and went home happy as a tornado in a trailer park.

I decided to put it in last evening since there was nothing on TV. However, I had forgotten the stupid nonsense I went through to put the old one in. To make room for the switch for the porch light way back when I installed it, I removed the original single gang box for the hall light and replaced it with a plastic double gang old work box since I couldn't find any metal boxes I could retrofit. What I had forgotten was the old dimmer switch had a flange that went all the way across the top and bottom of the switch which interfered with the flanges on the old work box (I would love to meet the mute donkeys that came up with that brilliant idea). Back then, I cut off parts of the flange so it would fit in the cutout area of the old work box's top and bottom flange. Sadly, the new dimmer switch had the same kind of flanges that the old one did.



I had cut down the flanges on the old dimmer switch with a pair of dikes back then but, unfortunately, my old, arthritic hands are no longer up to that kind of work so I went after the plastic flanges on the old work box instead since that stuff is a lot softer. I used a pair of dikes to nibble away parts and a pair of duckbill pliers to break away the rest. Since I lost the holes I had used to angle a couple of screws into the stud to hold that side of the box in place, I angled one into the stud near the upper left corner of the box, wedging the box in place. I was pleasantly surprised how well that screw is keeping that side of the box in place.



Once that miserable mess was taken care of, the dimmer switch went in with no more problems. What should have taken me only 10-15 minutes tops to install took a bit over an hour, had me sweating like a horse, and madder than a cat getting a bath in cold water. Hopefully, I don't have to touch that misbegotten box again for another 20 years (assuming I'm still alive by then)!



(Btw, when I saw that dirt on the other switch after I took the final photo, I took a pointed Q-Tip to it to get it out. The old eyes aren't what they used to be, either).


----------



## doyll

Nice finished project @Lady Fitzgerald.








Only took one TV show's worth of time and screw slots are even lined up.









Funny story is as an apprentice I spend a lifetime aligning screw slots one week. About as functional as skyhooks.
FYI, UK switches are up for off, down for own. I assume yours are up for on, down for off?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Nice finished project @Lady Fitzgerald.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only took one TV show's worth of time and screw slots are even lined up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny story is as an apprentice I spend a lifetime aligning screw slots one week. About as functional as skyhooks.
> FYI, UK switches are up for off, down for own. I assume yours are up for on, down for off?


Thanks, Doyll!. It takes only a second, maybe two, to line up the screw slots when putting a screw in but it makes the job look far more professional (not to mention, I'm just anal that way).

Correct about the toggle direction. Except for three way (or more) switches (on those, anything goes), when off, our toggles point down. Curious about the difference between my side of the pond and yours. Btw, the second switch on the right in the photo is on a three way circuit. I upgraded that circuit around the time I added the porch light and first dimmer switch. I live in a mobile home with no attic so I just pulled the screws holding the aluminum siding on at the bottom of the outside wall and peeled it back a bit to run the cable to the second switch I added at the other end of the hallway. Things were so much easier to do when I was twenty years younger (and healthier).


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Thanks, Doyll!. It takes only a second, maybe two, to line up the screw slots when putting a screw in but it makes the job look far more professional (not to mention, I'm just anal that way).
> 
> Correct about the toggle direction. Except for three way (or more) switches (on those, anything goes), when off, our toggles point down. Curious about the difference between my side of the pond and yours. Btw, the second switch on the right in the photo is on a three way circuit. I upgraded that circuit around the time I added the porch light and first dimmer switch. I live in a mobile home with no attic so I just pulled the screws holding the aluminum siding on at the bottom of the outside wall and peeled it back a bit to run the cable to the second switch I added at the other end of the hallway. Things were so much easier to do when I was twenty years younger (and healthier).


I built in USA most of my life before crossing the pond. Most everything here is concrete block (not cinderblock) walls, even interior walls; stucco out and plaster in. Rafters are usually built on site, almost no composition roofs, but concrete tile. Carpenters (usually joiners) here are much more skilled than there .. skilled enough build mortise and tenon window frames, panel doors etc. Lots more one off construction here versus ticki-tackies all in a row. It varies a lot country to country too. Standards and codes are just as much a nightmare if not more. Main wiring is often a couple of 40 amp (220v rings from main panel. Plugs each have a fuse instead of socket being fused at source panel. Plumbing does not have 'J' traps under fixture. Everything but toilets lines drain to often open drains with air gap there to kinda stop back draft from sewers. Storm runoff usually goes into same sewer lines, not separate storm drain system. Lots of lead still used in roofing for flashing.
Sorry for the hi-jack.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Thanks, Doyll!. It takes only a second, maybe two, to line up the screw slots when putting a screw in but it makes the job look far more professional (not to mention, I'm just anal that way).
> 
> Correct about the toggle direction. Except for three way (or more) switches (on those, anything goes), when off, our toggles point down. Curious about the difference between my side of the pond and yours. Btw, the second switch on the right in the photo is on a three way circuit. I upgraded that circuit around the time I added the porch light and first dimmer switch. I live in a mobile home with no attic so I just pulled the screws holding the aluminum siding on at the bottom of the outside wall and peeled it back a bit to run the cable to the second switch I added at the other end of the hallway. Things were so much easier to do when I was twenty years younger (and healthier).
> 
> 
> 
> I built in USA most of my life before crossing the pond. Most everything here is concrete block (not cinderblock) walls, even interior walls; stucco out and plaster in. Rafters are usually built on site, almost no composition roofs, but concrete tile. Carpenters (usually joiners) here are much more skilled than there .. skilled enough build mortise and tenon window frames, panel doors etc. Lots more one off construction here versus ticki-tackies all in a row. It varies a lot country to country too. Standards and codes are just as much a nightmare if not more. Main wiring is often a couple of 40 amp (220v rings from main panel. Plugs each have a fuse instead of socket being fused at source panel. Plumbing does not have 'J' traps under fixture. Everything but toilets lines drain to often open drains with air gap there to kinda stop back draft from sewers. Storm runoff usually goes into same sewer lines, not separate storm drain system. Lots of lead still used in roofing for flashing.
> Sorry for the hi-jack.
Click to expand...

What hi-jack? I didn't see a hi-jacking.


----------



## DR4G00N

My super awesome WC'ing loop for my overclocking bench.
The reservoir is an old Folgers coffee ground container and the radiator is an aluminum transmission cooler from a Dodge grand caravan, it's 520mm X 120mm X 30mm.
For the cpu block I use the pump/block combo from my h110 since it literally went up in smoke and was otherwise unusable.

Believe it or not, it works pretty good for the most part. The cpu temps are pretty bad though since the inlet/outlet to the block are only 3/16's so it's super extremely restrictive.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> From now this small mosfet transistor will replace previous heavy inefficient(20+W for coil) relay.
> 
> I still need to find some high value(friend suggested 200k ohm) resistor to connect it between gate and source.
> Without it the mosfet won't discharge and will still conduct even with power disconnected.
> 
> 
> 
> What you're describing is a pulldown resistor to ground (Source). The specific value of this will be dependent on your source voltage (Vin, applied to the Gate) and the Gate-Source threshold voltage of the MOSFET (Vgs, found on the data sheet). You can make a simple voltage divider from 2 resistors to accomplish the required result, one between the input and the gate (R1), the other between the gate and source (R2). The total resistance of these should be large, to limit current and hence power dissipation. R2 should probably be at least 10K or so (this should be fine for using 1/4 Watt resistors for Vin < 50V). From there, find the minimum and maximum values for the Gate-Source threshold voltage (datasheet) and average them, R1 can then be calculated as ((Vin - Vgs) * R2) / Vgs) using the average from before.
> 
> Also, if your load is inductive (motor, solenoid) you may need to connect an additional flyback path to discharge the coil safely.
Click to expand...

This thing supplies power to PWM controller.

I soldered 100k ohm resistor between gate and source.

After cutting the power going to gate it cuts off power going to PWM controller within 3-4 seconds.

Motorcycle ignition switch soldered between +12V and gate.
This way I don't have to open the trunk to disconnect the power.


----------



## Alex132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> My super awesome WC'ing loop for my overclocking bench.
> The reservoir is an old Folgers coffee ground container and the radiator is an aluminum transmission cooler from a Dodge grand caravan, it's 520mm X 120mm X 30mm.
> For the cpu block I use the pump/block combo from my h110 since it literally went up in smoke and was otherwise unusable.
> 
> Believe it or not, it works pretty good for the most part. The cpu temps are pretty bad though since the inlet/outlet to the block are only 3/16's so it's super extremely restrictive.


Someone needs to have the aluminium and copper talk with you


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex132*
> 
> Someone needs to have the aluminium and copper talk with you


I'm using tap water so galvanic corrosion is probably the least of my problems







, plus I drain it when I'm done with it to minimize the effects. Though as you could probably tell I don't really care to much.


----------



## Pawelr98

This is how it looks like in reality.

Hotglued all the stuff to prevent shorts or any damage due to movement.
It won't heat up much so there's no problem.

Here's the motorcycle ignition switch I installed.


----------



## Nenkitsune

I built LED fog lights for my car. using two 50w leds, intel stock copper core heatsinks, random brackets, and a 600w dc-dc boost converter. For reliability I have them running at 35w each.









My review of my 1200w dc-dc converter is pretty ghetto too haha. I'm using my old Thermaltake Toughpower 850w psu (which is totally toasted, it can't handle more than about 10-15amps on the 12v rail) and the old powersupply from my gf's computer. It's rated for 16amps on the 12v rail but will over current to 19amp before the over current kicks in.


----------



## umeng2002

Not a case, but fixing my Logitech illuminate keyboard.


----------



## RockeyDA

i knoiw it took me a while but im chillen with my cousin over this labor day weekend so i haven't got around to posting my old agp rig, i made a short video on trying to run some games on it and digging threw some of my old files, felt like going in a time machine, because i have used this computer less than 5 times in the past 2 years.

MB: some old gateway motherboard,
CPU: some Pentium 4 @ 3.0ghz with hyperthreading,
GPU: ati aiw x800,
RAM: 3X 1GB @400MHZ 1X 512MB @400MHZ
HDD: MAXTOR 20GB C:\(OS) WESTERN DIGITAL 120GB F:"\(STEAM) SEAGATE 80GB E:\(FRAPS)
WINDOWS XP SERVICE PACK 2 SAME OS INSTALL SINCE 2009!

 http://i.imgur.com/EEqNQWe.jpg
 http://i.imgur.com/nBk7Qha.jpg

this is were the ghetto starts, look at that cooling fan! its one of thoes thermal speed controlls for a older dell cpu, i made it the exaust fan and i desolderd the temp sensor, gave it a lenth of wier, and cramed it in the fins of the heatsink! overheating went by by, witch happend daly for me.
 http://i.imgur.com/6QUTKV6.jpg

i loved this card so much when i got it, before this i had a Geforce 5200FX that was damedgd so it was quite the upgrade.
 http://i.imgur.com/NTnjJ7k.jpg

Viewer Descression Advised: i cuss now and i think i drop a few F boms in the video, but this is my going back and playing around with some of my old games.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

No photos but, a few weeks ago before it got too hot here, I ran a couple of Ethernet cables from the network shelf in the linen closet in my bathroom (no room for the modem, router, TV tuners, UPS, telephone transceiver, etc. where I have my computer) to where I have my computer and monitors in my mobile home (up to then, I had been depending on Wi-Fi). I took the easy way out and ran the cables down the inside of the wall, under the trailer, then up the inside of the wall at the other end since it was both a shorter run and one heck of a lot easier than around the upper perimeter under the trim up by the roof (which is how I routed my TV antenna cables; what a chore, I'm _so_ NOT doing _that_ again, _ever_!). To avoid possible damage from water and, maybe, critters (I certainly hope not!), I needed to run the cable in a conduit. The easiest and cheapest way I could think of to install conduit was to buy the cheapest 50' vinyl garden hose I could quickly find locally (the Lowes I usually drive by once a week), cut off the fittings, cut the hose in half, then pull a cable through each half before installation while the hose was still laid out straight.

I used my DataVac electric blower to blow a birdie (a small piece of wadded toilet tissue in this case) with a pull string attached through a hose, then used the string to pull the cable through the hose. It was a tight fit but it worked. After using some fish rods (fiberglass rods with threaded ends electricians join together to fish cables where a fish tape is too flexible to use; my fish tape was too flexible so I had to buy the fish rods) to pull the hoses and cables on the ground diagonally from one side of the trailer to the other, bored 3/4" holes in the underbelly and the sill plates to feed the hoses into, then run the cables hanging out the ends of the hoses up to Keystone wall plates in the walls (had to use my fish tape on one side). Since I also added an outside outlet while I had the siding partially peeled back, it turned into an all day job (being in my upper sixties and handicapped didn't help any; my Irish stubbornness, Aleve, and the small step ladder I used to pull myself up from the ground umpteen times that day were the only things that enabled me to get the job done).

Definitely "ghetto" rigged (inaccurate term since all ghetto means is a minority neighborhood, not a slum; ******* rigged would be more accurate) but once the skirting went back up, nothing shows. If the bugs and spiders underneath the trailer don't like how it looks, they can just move.

Btw, my "******* creeper" is a coroplast (corrugated plastic) sign I rescued from the dumpster at the last job I worked (slaved at). I need to get a "new" before the one I have falls apart; it's only eight or nine years old. It's better than an old carpet since it doesn't stink like wet dog when it gets wet and doesn't get moldy.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Built a PWM signal generator for my 4 Deltas that I will put on my radiator.

Turns out the Deltas are 3800rpm instead of 3300rpm, so it ended up a bit louder than I liked.

It's also 32mm in width, which I realized when trying to mount it.


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Built a PWM signal generator for my 4 Deltas that I will put on my radiator.
> 
> Turns out the Deltas are 3800rpm instead of 3300rpm, so it ended up a bit louder than I liked.
> 
> It's also 32mm in width, which I realized when trying to mount it.


I got the same exact ones on my 360 rad. Them things move some serious air.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Did you "repurpose" it from enterprise grade equipement too?


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Did you "repurpose" it from enterprise grade equipement too?


i pulled the two i have out of 2 old school dell xps pcs from like 2003ish


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Found a bunch of screws that are too long so I put on some nuts


----------



## DogeTactical




----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I'm using tap water so galvanic corrosion is probably the least of my problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , plus I drain it when I'm done with it to minimize the effects. Though as you could probably tell I don't really care to much.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Found a bunch of screws that are too long so I put on some nuts


jesus thats some serious cooling


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Deltas were too loud so I put on the low speed fans before the Delta and added a kill switch for the Deltas.


----------



## Nukemaster

Even at lower speed the Delta fans are too loud? how slow can they go.

Can I see your pwm controller? is based on a 555 timer or something else?


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Even at lower speed the Delta fans are too loud? how slow can they go.
> 
> Can I see your pwm controller? is based on a 555 timer or something else?


no way. Dude you can undervolt them to 5 volt. and they are dead silent and still move a good bit of air for how fast they are moving. I run mine at 5volt nonstop. Its like 1500 rpm or around that


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I use a 555 timer to send PWM signal to the Deltas. The Deltas don't have a RPM sensor. The third wire appears to be an alarm wire.

It sounds like its running about 2000rpm at about 60% on the 555 timer. It can run at 20% if I send signal from mobo but it clicks a lot. The clicks are so loud that I might as well run it at 60% from my timer.

Since it stops spinning below 60% PWM from my timer, I short resistor 1 to turn of the fans(forces 50% PWM).


----------



## cravinmild

I bought these headphones for the PS3 way back but they broke within a year. The earcups broke off the headband then just kind of dangled there from the speaker wires.



I put them in my shed with intent on someday fixing them.

That day is today









I honestly thought I would completely destroy them in the process but as luck would have it fixing them was a pretty simple task.

You will need a few tools and some ability but other than that its an hour fix.

Drill with a few small drill bits
Rivet gun with 12 rivets
two 4"x2" acrylic strips about 4mm thick
small torch or heat gun
Cut your acrylic to size. I scored mine with a cheap utility knife (P.S. you will need a small scoring knife) and just snap it along the cut. Few passes with the knife down the acrylic should be all it takes



After that you will want to drill three holes using drill bits the same size as the rivets you intend to use. Too small a hole and the rivets will not go though and too big a hole and the rivet will not get a good grab. I used a couple of clamps to hold the acrylic strip to the earcup/headband but in the end it turned out holding it there was just as easy. I drilled thought the holes I made already in the end of the acrylic strip marking spots on the earcup I wanted to drill into. I then removed the acrylic strip and drilled the actual holes at the spots I had marked. I used three rivets at each end of the acrylic strip and it seemed more than enough for a strong hold.





I used a small mini gas torch to slowly heat the acrylic so it would bend and mold my acrylic strip to resemble the original curve of the headset



I then drilled though both the acrylic sheet then into the headband in one step drilling all three holes at the same time. It was easier to have all three holes drilled instead of drilling then riveting each hole individually plus if i screw up the angle I dont think I could have removed the rivet to try again. I used two different rivet sizes as i thought the round silver disk thingy you have to drill into was thicker then it actually was. Looks very good imo



I have done both sides the same way. The one side was not torn completely free but there was a very large crack in the plastic where the ear-cup attaches to the headband, its only a matter of time before that side breaks as well. I also though it would give even pressure having both sides done with the same material .... and it was fun to do.



They are also super strong. No different to original when spreading them apart, very resistant to being spread apart, its been a few years since I wore these but I honestly can not feel any difference in pressure from new. Its even pressure, not head pinching tight while also being very snug and comfortable. I could bend over to grab something off the floor and they will not slide off my head. Exactly like when they were new out of the box.


I have them plugged in and charging. The red light is on so that is a good sign. At this point I have no idea if they will work, I never turned them on. I may have drilled though a wire while fixing or even the battery .....







I have my fingers crossed it worked. I would hate to have done such a wonderful ghetto fix only to have ripped the speaker wires apart while drilling.



Mostly I did this cause I could .. or thought I could. I have the materials, tools and time and second to lastly I hate throwing things this expensive away, I felt these cans still owed me time for the amount i paid for them. The last reason most will not agree with is that they are a fantastic headset. Hear me out now. They are official and one of the only versions which allow voice chat/audio via USB dongle so they are super easy to set up and use, works everytime no fuss no muss. They also work on my PS3,PS4, wired or wireless, they work on my pc, and kids laptops but the dongle also plugs into the usb ports of our TV sets allowing for wireless sound .... FROM OUR TV"S. That is a lot of feature for a simple headset. The voice chat quality is top notch, peeps are super easy to hear and the headset has the ability to adjust between voice chat volume and game volume, they have mute, built in mic, sound profiles can be DL--ed for each individual game. The last feature I really love is the RUMBLE. OMG, make your eyes fall out of your head they rumble so well. They are a super easy to use, light, have great sound and packed with features.

Very happy to have them back in the fold. Very happy to have fixed them myself and to have clawed back a product which should have been on its way to the dump.

Hope you liked my ghetto fix


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Spoiler: And there's more



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> My friend started mining. R9 290 too hot. Watercooled.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheap ass chinese $5 5W leaky pump is in the plastic bottle
> 
> 
> Pump leaks too much so need a bottle to hold the leaked water.
> Computer cant be shutdown or else air bubble gets in the loop
> Fan on PSU cools the VRM and parts of memory
> 
> 
> Barbs on radiator too big, so I stuffed the 3/8 tube with 1/2 OD into 1/2 barbs. Not even leaking
> 
> 
> Close up from water leaked from pump
> 
> 
> Forgot to get him a proper resevoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He forgot to buy screws for fans, so i placed the fan inside the radiator shroud


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*


I am impressed


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*


That first pic? HP dv4?


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Eurocom Electra 2, AKA Clevo W650SJ.

Has i5 4210M locked to 3.1Ghz and GTX 850M overcocked to 1375Mhz, 1.2V.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

And finally, TEC cooler for the laptop is assembled, after 1 year of procrastination.




TEC helped to reduce GPU temp by 5C and lowered fan noise quite a bit. The laptop fan used to run at full speed, and now it's much quieter.


----------



## DogeTactical

Thats dope


----------



## Nukemaster

Wow that keyboard has huge letters. My dad needs something like that.

Ohh and that is a pretty cool mod. I like the notebook fan cutout one(the tec is pretty over the top







).


----------



## doyll

@TheLAWNOOB
These have to b some of the best ghetto mods ever!


----------



## TheBrowno

My old Core2Duo Box was getting a bit slow, so I decided to do a bit of hardware modding to get it to go a bit faster.
*Before:*



Spoiler: After





Benchmarks show a 5000% performance boost


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

You forgot the GTX 1080 sticker.


----------



## Powerg4

And the blue led fans! Install them now and get at least a 10,000% performance boost.
I am guilty of installing led fans on a pentium 4 by the way


----------



## TheBrowno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> You forgot the GTX 1080 sticker.


I'll be printing my pre ordered RX490 Sticker tonight


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> I'll be printing my pre ordered RX490 Sticker tonight


Can you send me one of those, I need an upgrade.


----------



## RockeyDA

so my spwaker blew out on my speaker phone, i hate being on the phone and speaker phone made me able to do things and talk at the same time, i wast going back to holding the phone by tilting my head and pushing up my sholder!




i dont even know here, i was bringing life to a sony Trinitron KV-1510 and the plastic fake wood grain was peeling up, only to revile REAL WOOD GRAIN!!! WHAT? i dont know what that is! not even pulp wood, real wood all the way threw!
also this TV was made in 72 witch makes it the oldest tv i have worked on without a bad crt.


and if i find free time and feel motivated for some overclocking i have a new radiator that makes my other one look horible. put a box fan in front if that and i have the real deal. its a A/C radiator i found in the trash of a car dealership.


----------



## Nenkitsune

I don't suggest using an AC Condenser for water cooling. Instead of being a standard crossflow radiator (water goes through one way, to the end tank, then back up to the outlet) AC condensers tend to snake back and forth many times before getting to the outlet. They're designed to cool gaseous fluids back into a liquid state. Not sure what the flow would be like either compared to a normal radiator.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> I don't suggest using an AC Condenser for water cooling. Instead of being a standard crossflow radiator (water goes through one way, to the end tank, then back up to the outlet) AC condensers tend to snake back and forth many times before getting to the outlet. They're designed to cool gaseous fluids back into a liquid state. Not sure what the flow would be like either compared to a normal radiator.


Not to mention the condenser is made of aluminum and you will have problems with galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals.


----------



## ThijsH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You are a true ghetto rigger hahaha, I'm impressed.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> I don't suggest using an AC Condenser for water cooling. Instead of being a standard crossflow radiator (water goes through one way, to the end tank, then back up to the outlet) AC condensers tend to snake back and forth many times before getting to the outlet. They're designed to cool gaseous fluids back into a liquid state. Not sure what the flow would be like either compared to a normal radiator.


well i would have my pump fighting gravity, once i get it started probably by siphoning oil threw it it should be good, flow should be overkill, the pipes are far larger then the ones on my pump, my pumps hose is the same thickness of your average heat pipe. and so i dont have to worry about changing it i would use a few quarts of sae-30 instead of water. plus then if something breaks i don't loose hardwire unlike everyone else's setups. btw the condenser is not on the raitator so that wont be a problem either.


----------



## Nenkitsune

the "ac radiator" is the condenser. AC units don't have a "radiator" like a car does. They have a condenser. It's primary purpose is to condense the gas back into a liquid by cooling it.

Flow wise it has far LESS flow than a standard radiator (despite its pipe diameter) since a radiator pushes all the fluid through a much larger orifice overall internally, rather than a single pipe snaking back and forth.

While that particular condenser appears to have manifolds in the input and output side, overall you're trying to use it for a function it wasn't designed for.

You would probably be better off using a heater core from a car rather than an AC Condenser.

Oil is probably the worst coolant you could possibly use. It would absolutely demolish your pump due to the viscosity, and oil overall doesn't have great thermal properties vs water. Motor oil is literally 5x worse than water as a thermal conductor.


----------



## NiKiZ

I recently upgraded my PC and I did not have a proper ATX case or the money left to buy one. My friend gave me a Fujitsu Siemens Scaleo T for free, so I used it as the case.

Added a 90mm fan in the front bays. It is held on with a single rubber band.


The SSD is mounted with a rubber band as well. The rear fan is from the Pentium 4 cooler. I was not able to screw self tapping screws into it, so I used 4 zip ties. I did not have enough for all of the corners, though. The CPU cooler it too tall and the side panel doesn't fit.. It is held on with masking tape.


The GPU runs a bit hot. I have to find a way to get some air to it. The case has a spot for a front 80mm fan, but I don't have a fan with long enough wires to attach it.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Screen broke. Removed it and using wireless antennas from a random HP laptop.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so i saved my poorly tuned woofer box and got my 18 sounding like an 18 without rebuilding, had just enough scrap wood from original cuts to pull it off.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pitchures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now dew to lack of proper tools my box is way crooked, 23" on one side 24" on the other, so this pice did not fit right, so i screwed it down and filled the gaps with great stuff since glue wouldnt of done anything for most of the gaps being 1/4 an inch think or so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and here is a little before and after of just the sundown.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pitchures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> doing a tone sweep did not impress me, but once i went to actual music, my mind was blown.
> im missing out above 40hz alot compared to blow, but 40-20hz is crazy loud now, every door in the house rattles. i can pick up the missing notes with my alpine with i plan to do when i get home from work.
> first 2 songs i played that wowed me were "Big Kurt - My Sub" and "Young Jeezy - What I Do (Just Like That)"
> still aint hittin the low low in big kurt my sub so definitely still gonna try and build a T-Line.
> 
> my next post will probably be on the scrap kicker, as i plan on putting that thing in custom built box and seeing what it can do.


So&#8230; What did you use to power the sub? You can't just split an RCA cable for it. I'm very interested, since I need to fix a subwoofer I have.


----------



## DogeTactical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> The rear fan is from the Pentium 4 cooler. I was not able to screw self tapping screws into it, so I used 4 zip ties .


I did the same exact thing


----------



## Nukemaster

Great ghetto minds think alike


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> the "ac radiator" is the condenser. AC units don't have a "radiator" like a car does. They have a condenser. It's primary purpose is to condense the gas back into a liquid by cooling it.
> 
> Flow wise it has far LESS flow than a standard radiator (despite its pipe diameter) since a radiator pushes all the fluid through a much larger orifice overall internally, rather than a single pipe snaking back and forth.
> 
> While that particular condenser appears to have manifolds in the input and output side, overall you're trying to use it for a function it wasn't designed for.
> 
> You would probably be better off using a heater core from a car rather than an AC Condenser.
> 
> Oil is probably the worst coolant you could possibly use. It would absolutely demolish your pump due to the viscosity, and oil overall doesn't have great thermal properties vs water. Motor oil is literally 5x worse than water as a thermal conductor.


the condenser aint there, the condncer is a little par with a small opening to restrict flow. air flows to freely threw it to have one (i have done this before and i bypass the condenser and jump the lines with hose. you could see it in my much older post of liquid coolling)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> So&#8230; What did you use to power the sub? You can't just split an RCA cable for it. I'm very interested, since I need to fix a subwoofer I have.


my sub is powerd off a Sundown SAE-1500D and 2 truck batteries and a 50 amp charger.
and what do you mean by split the rca cable? i run rca out my sound card, then split half goes to my eq and run to different amps and the other gos directly to an amp. i chain my amps together to prevent gain loss. (high signal, less cables, lower interference)


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the condenser aint there, the condncer is a little par with a small opening to restrict flow. air flows to freely threw it to have one (i have done this before and i bypass the condenser and jump the lines with hose. you could see it in my much older post of liquid coolling)


They are correct the _radiators_ in a AC unit are the condenser and the evaporator.

Either way, It will be interesting to see what you do with it.


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> my sub is powerd off a Sundown SAE-1500D and 2 truck batteries and a 50 amp charger.
> and what do you mean by split the rca cable? i run rca out my sound card, then split half goes to my eq and run to different amps and the other gos directly to an amp. i chain my amps together to prevent gain loss. (high signal, less cables, lower interference)


Oh, that's very advanced. Thanks for help, I never thought about chaining amps before.

With 1500 watts I hope your neighbourhood does not go on earthquake alarm when you watch movies.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KYKYLLIKA*
> 
> Oh, that's very advanced. Thanks for help, I never thought about chaining amps before.
> 
> With 1500 watts I hope your neighbourhood does not go on earthquake alarm when you watch movies.


lucky me my neighbor count is low, 1 in a 1 mile radius, and they are just as loud as me. in the past 3 weeks me and my friends have been having fun with shooting anything we want to get rid of, 3 weeks 300 rounds of 12 gauge alone. no worry of cops. but i think my shoot fest is gonna stop because no one has anything to shoot. i shot my slushy on Sunday i was so desperate. RIP my slushy


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i shot my slushy on Sunday i was so desperate. RIP my slushy


Hilarious!!


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DogeTactical*
> 
> I did the same exact thing


Haha, nice!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Hilarious!!


proof i shot my slushy here, WARNING! i cuss alot when ther are guns and booms! so if that offedns you then dont click!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> proof i shot my slushy here, WARNING! i cuss alot when ther are guns and booms! so if that offedns you then dont click!


Good times.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Hilarious!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> proof i shot my slushy here, WARNING! i cuss alot when ther are guns and booms! so if that offedns you then dont click!
Click to expand...

Your Mother must be so proud.


----------



## Powerg4

Well that is one crazy video!
Reminds me of the time I discovered a rotten eggplant in the fridge. It was so disgusting I decided that even the compost was too good for it, so I constructed a small fireplace in the backyard to incinerate it in expression of my distaste to the vegetable.








I still have no idea what drove me to do it though, probably just had way too much time on my hands











Back on topic though, check out my custom DVD front bay cover













Cover off a broken cd rom drive, attached to a piece of pine, attached to the top cover of said broken cd rom drive. Does it get any more ghetto than that?







Needed something to cover the massive dust accumulating hole in the front!


----------



## Nenkitsune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> the "ac radiator" is the condenser. AC units don't have a "radiator" like a car does. They have a condenser. It's primary purpose is to condense the gas back into a liquid by cooling it.
> 
> Flow wise it has far LESS flow than a standard radiator (despite its pipe diameter) since a radiator pushes all the fluid through a much larger orifice overall internally, rather than a single pipe snaking back and forth.
> 
> While that particular condenser appears to have manifolds in the input and output side, overall you're trying to use it for a function it wasn't designed for.
> 
> You would probably be better off using a heater core from a car rather than an AC Condenser.
> 
> Oil is probably the worst coolant you could possibly use. It would absolutely demolish your pump due to the viscosity, and oil overall doesn't have great thermal properties vs water. Motor oil is literally 5x worse than water as a thermal conductor.
> 
> 
> 
> the condenser aint there, the condncer is a little par with a small opening to restrict flow. air flows to freely threw it to have one (i have done this before and i bypass the condenser and jump the lines with hose. you could see it in my much older post of liquid coolling)
Click to expand...

No, the component you're describing is called the EVAPORATOR. what it does it it takes high pressure LIQUID refridgerant, through the small port, then the tube opens up to a larger diameter, dropping the pressure and causing the liquid to flash into a gas. The phase change causes a drop in pressure as the refrigerant changes into a gas and thus, causes a massive temp drop. What then happens is the warm air begins to condense water onto the fins of the evaporator, and then the water then evaporates as warmer air flows over it, further dropping the air temp.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Your Mother must be so proud.


its funny you say that, i sent her the vid and she is super jellous! shes down in the hood still so she cant do something like that without getting shot at. i keep trying to tell her how great life is up here to get her to leave cinci, we call it nastynati for a reason.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> No, the component you're describing is called the EVAPORATOR. what it does it it takes high pressure LIQUID refridgerant, through the small port, then the tube opens up to a larger diameter, dropping the pressure and causing the liquid to flash into a gas. The phase change causes a drop in pressure as the refrigerant changes into a gas and thus, causes a massive temp drop. What then happens is the warm air begins to condense water onto the fins of the evaporator, and then the water then evaporates as warmer air flows over it, further dropping the air temp.


well either way the flow of the pipes are varry non restrictive, less restrictive than the chopped up dell heat pipe heat sink i use to cool the gpu. and if my pump has trouble with pumping oil ile just double the voltage and put some heatsinks on it. this motor can take it, its built like a powerweels motor, and its not quiet, but water pumps generally are.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Your Mother must be so proud.
> 
> 
> 
> its funny you say that, i sent her the vid and she is super jellous! shes down in the hood still so she cant do something like that without getting shot at. i keep trying to tell her how great life is up here to get her to leave cinci, we call it nastynati for a reason.
Click to expand...

The apple didn't fall far from the tree, then.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The apple didn't fall far from the tree, then.


Be careful, or we will be seeing applesauce.









Honestly, i worry more about the damage the stuffing and other debris may do to our environment than the shooting them up mentality.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The apple didn't fall far from the tree, then.


almost sounds like your trying to start some beef with me!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> almost sounds like your trying to start some beef with me!


beef is easily one of the tastiest things on the planet....lol ive always hated that slang term...its right up there with turnt and word...


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> The apple didn't fall far from the tree, then.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> almost sounds like your trying to start some beef with me!


Agreed, I think a line may have been crossed here.








No need for put downs around here, let people be themselves.


----------



## vicyo

This is the shy ghetto button box. Looks good outside, but a mess on the inside


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vicyo*
> 
> This is the shy ghetto button box. Looks good outside, but a mess on the inside


the best part is the glue instead of solder


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> the best part is the glue instead of solder


I think it is soldered and then added hot glue to strengthen it. That is pretty common.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> I think it is soldered and then added hot glue to strengthen it. That is pretty common.


yeah it is i seen it after i posted but was too lazy to amend...


----------



## vicyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> yeah it is i seen it after i posted but was too lazy to amend...


yep it's soldered to the smaller than 1mm² test points. Not what it was made for but still works


----------



## Skye12977

So I had purchased a laptop cooler in the past, never used it much and either lost it or gave it away... so I decided to make my own.


Spoiler: Version 1.1 (1.0 didnt have such a large opening or duck tape for rigidity. I shouldve used more tbh.






Needless to say it really wasn't strong enough to support the laptop.
This could be easily fixed or..... I could just make a better one.





Spoiler: Version 2.0



Some left over wood from a desk and some furniture stops that were laying around.




I may look into a wire that's close to the needs of the fan in the future, as it's currently powered by a 10ft molex extension cable I made for testing purposes a few months back.
Although I doubt the laptop will slide, the screws at the bottom are to "catch" it if it does.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skye12977*
> 
> So I had purchased a laptop cooler in the past, never used it much and either lost it or gave it away... so I decided to make my own.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Version 1.1 (1.0 didnt have such a large opening or duck tape for rigidity. I shouldve used more tbh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say it really wasn't strong enough to support the laptop.
> This could be easily fixed or..... I could just make a better one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Version 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> Some left over wood from a desk and some furniture stops that were laying around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may look into a wire that's close to the needs of the fan in the future, as it's currently powered by a 10ft molex extension cable I made for testing purposes a few months back.
> Although I doubt the laptop will slide, the screws at the bottom are to "catch" it if it does.


i have nearly the exact same thing for like 6 bucks from walmart on clearance except it can also be used as a lap stand with two heights it also has a cheap usb hub...but its definately not ghetto yet...maybe if i break it...it will become the ghetto


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i have nearly the exact same thing for like 6 bucks from walmart on clearance except it can also be used as a lap stand with two heights it also has a cheap usb hub...but its definately not ghetto yet...maybe if i break it...it will become the ghetto


This laptop has been my main PC for the past few months, not too concentrated on moving it around when I use an external monitor/keyboard/mouse.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skye12977*
> 
> So I had purchased a laptop cooler in the past, never used it much and either lost it or gave it away... so I decided to make my own.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Version 1.1 (1.0 didnt have such a large opening or duck tape for rigidity. I shouldve used more tbh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say it really wasn't strong enough to support the laptop.
> This could be easily fixed or..... I could just make a better one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Version 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> Some left over wood from a desk and some furniture stops that were laying around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may look into a wire that's close to the needs of the fan in the future, as it's currently powered by a 10ft molex extension cable I made for testing purposes a few months back.
> Although I doubt the laptop will slide, the screws at the bottom are to "catch" it if it does.


i dont get why? dose your lapop overheat or something? i have never had a laptop get to warm even on hot days and its sitting on carpet. carpet just makes thecpu fan kick onfor a few after 5 min or so.


----------



## Nukemaster

With so many notebooks in the market, some simply run warmer than others.

I had(still do in fact) an old desktop replacement unit that had 2 fans and 2 heatsinks(sharing the same heatpipe) just for the cpu. On the plus side it runs pretty cool as a result.

Think of this as the same thing you are going to do with that automotive radiator. It may not be needed, but you sure are going to try it anyway.


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i dont get why? dose your lapop overheat or something? i have never had a laptop get to warm even on hot days and its sitting on carpet. carpet just makes thecpu fan kick onfor a few after 5 min or so.


My CPU doesn't get it, but my GPU does.
If I'm just using the computer outside of gaming, I don't care about cooling it at all, there aren't any problems.
But currently I really don't have a main rig, so I have to game on my laptop.


----------



## killeraxemannic

I did this a while ago but eh... I ordered all my PC parts for my new build and then after everything arrived I found out the case I ordered was on back order.


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skye12977*
> 
> My CPU doesn't get it, but my GPU does.
> If I'm just using the computer outside of gaming, I don't care about cooling it at all, there aren't any problems.
> But currently I really don't have a main rig, so I have to game on my laptop.


I'm rather curious to see if the fan even helps, I know at least being off the table will give fresh air though.
Going to run Unigine valley with fan off and then with it on. Reapply thermal paste and try again.
Ran 83C with fan off and no Memory or Core-clock dips.
e) turned fan on and ran @ 78C, definitely worth it.
Now to do thermal paste.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> I did this a while ago but eh... I ordered all my PC parts for my new build and then after everything arrived I found out the case I ordered was on back order.


What all you go there?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skye12977*
> 
> My CPU doesn't get it, but my GPU does.
> If I'm just using the computer outside of gaming, I don't care about cooling it at all, there aren't any problems.
> But currently I really don't have a main rig, so I have to game on my laptop.


this Try pushing one to its limits on modern games they get toasty...ive gotten light burns from an elitebook pro on my legs while playing the original call of duty black ops from the exhaust heat


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> this Try pushing one to its limits on modern games they get toasty...ive gotten light burns from an elitebook pro on my legs while playing the original call of duty black ops from the exhaust heat


You should've seen seen one of the original macbooks my brother gamed on in college.
The laptop would get mad hot, and he even managed to get the charging brick so hot that it began to melt/had the yellow/black discoloration.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> With so many notebooks in the market, some simply run warmer than others.
> 
> I had(still do in fact) an old desktop replacement unit that had 2 fans and 2 heatsinks(sharing the same heatpipe) just for the cpu. On the plus side it runs pretty cool as a result.
> 
> Think of this as the same thing you are going to do with that automotive radiator. It may not be needed, but you sure are going to try it anyway.


i know, but laptops dont overclock. also the gpu fan on my laptop has never spun up, it runs cool under max load but it is a geforce 5200fx go. dont do much gaming on it, gold source games are old news to me. 1.6ghz 1 core, by far the closet thing to a gaming laptop i have ever had. just died on me to, then i got pised and punched the keyboard thill the screen broke off and the frame bent. i haveno moreframes, 1 more screen and 1 more mobo. my laptop is nearing its end.
odds are this will be its final rebuild and i need to find a way to mount the screen. all 3 of my frames have broken mounts now.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know, but laptops dont overclock. also the gpu fan on my laptop has never spun up, it runs cool under max load but it is a geforce 5200fx go. dont do much gaming on it, gold source games are old news to me. 1.6ghz 1 core, by far the closet thing to a gaming laptop i have ever had. just died on me to, then i got pised and punched the keyboard thill the screen broke off and the frame bent. i haveno moreframes, 1 more screen and 1 more mobo. my laptop is nearing its end.
> odds are this will be its final rebuild and i need to find a way to mount the screen. all 3 of my frames have broken mounts now.


sure they do...but their cooling generally doesnt handle it well so most peiple dont...


----------



## Skye12977

So I'm happy so far.
New thermal paste on, fan hooked back up.... 68C run with the fan not even on.
Gotta love new thermal paste.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know, but laptops dont overclock. also the gpu fan on my laptop has never spun up, it runs cool under max load but it is a geforce 5200fx go.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> sure they do...but their cooling generally doesnt handle it well so most peiple dont...


how? i have tried and failed on that many times. even failed to read bios of my gpu.


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> how? i have tried and failed on that many times. even failed to read bios of my gpu.


GPUs can over-clock. But not advised. Some require custom bios.
Much like desktop GPUs it's both power and thermal limited.
Some laptops also don't have the power bricks that can keep up.


----------



## NiKiZ

This is my ultra ghetto Pentium II PC.


Spoiler: The amazing specs



- ABit BH-6 motherboard
- Intel Pentium 2 350MHz
- 3x 128 Mb 133MHz DDR RAM. One of the stick only has half the capacity, totalling 320 Mb RAM
- ATI Rage 128 AGP GPU
- Sound Blaster Vibra 128 sound card
- 3Com something 10/100MBit ethernet card
- 20 Gb IDE HDD
- DVD- and CD-drive
- Floppy drive



Yes, that is an ATX motherboard in a mATX case. There is a piece of paper behind the motherboard preventing shorting. The PSU is held on with friction. The HDD is sitting on top of the DVD-drive.


The original CPU fan died, so I ziptied a 60mm fan on it.


The original CMOS battery died and I did not have the right size battery, so I used a coin to make it the right size..


Front view.


----------



## seanzylol

Damn I'm building a retro rig eventually. I still have my dads pentium 1 from his PC when I was a kid. Do you use it for old school games and all that stuff?


----------



## NiKiZ

I actually don't know what to do with it..







Mostly old school gaming, I guess. Though I am installing Arch Linux to it right now
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanzylol*
> 
> Damn I'm building a retro rig eventually. I still have my dads pentium 1 from his PC when I was a kid. Do you use it for old school games and all that stuff?


Yeah, mostly old school gaming. Some newer DOS games and Win9x games.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> This is my ultra ghetto Pentium II PC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The amazing specs
> 
> 
> 
> - ABit BH-6 motherboard
> - Intel Pentium 2 350MHz
> - 3x 128 Mb 133MHz DDR RAM. One of the stick only has half the capacity, totalling 320 Mb RAM
> - ATI Rage 128 AGP GPU
> - Sound Blaster Vibra 128 sound card
> - 3Com something 10/100MBit ethernet card
> - 20 Gb IDE HDD
> - DVD- and CD-drive
> - Floppy drive
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that is an ATX motherboard in a mATX case. There is a piece of paper behind the motherboard preventing shorting. The PSU is held on with friction. The HDD is sitting on top of the DVD-drive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original CPU fan died, so I ziptied a 60mm fan on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The original CMOS battery died and I did not have the right size battery, so I used a coin to make it the right size..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front view.


Looks good.

I love the battery because you can get a pack of 4-5 cr2032's for 1-2 dollars









I had a cr2016 in a computer for a while and it worked without a spacer.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> how? i have tried and failed on that many times. even failed to read bios of my gpu.


older laptops dont usually have the capability but newer ones do...the elitebook i spoke of didnt allow overclock in the bios but software worked fine...that laptop was a 2006 model...


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skye12977*
> 
> GPUs can over-clock. But not advised. Some require custom bios.
> Much like desktop GPUs it's both power and thermal limited.
> Some laptops also don't have the power bricks that can keep up.


well i have never go to thermal limits, i thing my gpu clock is around 200mhz and because it was made in 2002 its the only power state. i have tried modding bios but the card is to different from its desktop counterpart for me to even read it. also the 5200 go only has 32mb vs the desktop having 128.
also i have a 90 watt charger i never use, the 60 watt works fine and has a jack for plugging in the cigarette lighter of a car. i dont see that thing needing higher than 60 watt because my batteries still charge decently fast and there 9 cells.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

game controller I use on arcade game PCBs , uses micro switches : P


----------



## DR4G00N

When regular water cooling isn't good enough anymore, it's time to bring out the really big gun's.









My Sub-zero A/C water chiller...








Need to get some 50/50 antifreeze pre-mix and give this monstrosity a test run.


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> game controller I use on arcade game PCBs , uses micro switches : P


That looks really interesting! Do you build arcade games? I always wanted to as I can solder but I never really found any kits to put together. I've soldered together many other kits (amplifiers, robotics kits, led chasers etc) before though so I'm up to the challenge if you know where I can get one!


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> That looks really interesting! Do you build arcade games? I always wanted to as I can solder but I never really found any kits to put together. I've soldered together many other kits (amplifiers, robotics kits, led chasers etc) before though so I'm up to the challenge if you know where I can get one!


Thanks ! : D , I don't build the games ; though I wish I could : P , I am in the proses of collecting some and the controller was made off the top of my head as I'm terrible at using the joy stick controls as I prefer a remote I can hold with both hands . Unfortualy I don't know of any kits , but you could always get a arcade PCB and make a controller , the wiring harness also needs to be made aswell , currentky I'm making 5 harnesses one for each game I have : D


----------



## Jimbags

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> When regular water cooling isn't good enough anymore, it's time to bring out the really big gun's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Sub-zero A/C water chiller...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to get some 50/50 antifreeze pre-mix and give this monstrosity a test run.


Sorry no spoliers. On my phone. For a second i thought it was minus 253°c. I was like hang on thats not far off absolute zero (-273c or kelvin) haha


----------



## Tisser12

My current ghetto rig until I get the screen mounted. Still gotta try to find a more flexible DP->Hdmi cable or somethin. The one I bought is ridiculous. I mean, it's fantastic quality, nice and thick how you'd want it, but I needed slightly lower quality and flimsy so I could flex it however I wanted/needed to haha. Next move is mounting it to the window of my case. I've decided to leave the window in tact and just attatch the screen directly to it from the inside, the screen is bright enough to shine through the tint on the window without affecting visibility. That will allow a much cleaner and easier installation also. Just sucks I spent the extra $15 to get the one with the acryllic case. (Original plan was to use the case to mount it through a cutout in the window)

In case you were wondering, it's a 5" touchscreen LCD designed for a Raspbery Pi or other micro computer. Micro USB power and HDMI input. I'm gonna use it to display core speeds and temps while fullscreen without having to run one of those ugly overlays. (I'm difficult I know) Needed to come up with my own solution since there were no acceptable pre-made ones to do what I want this to do. Running as a second monitor for the time being, in the future I may purchase a Pi to attatch to the rear of it to run all sensors and programs. Would be very simple if I got android (CM) loaded up onto it.


----------



## nX3NTY

I removed the original Tri-X fans off my R9 290X since it's rather noisy at high speed and replaced it with a couple of 120mm fans, one from Seidon 240M fans to cool the big chunk of GPU heatsink and the other is Arctic F12 to cool the secondary heatsink and VRM portion of the card. Just use some rubber bands to keep it in place


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> My current ghetto rig until I get the screen mounted. Still gotta try to find a more flexible DP->Hdmi cable or somethin. The one I bought is ridiculous. I mean, it's fantastic quality, nice and thick how you'd want it, but I needed slightly lower quality and flimsy so I could flex it however I wanted/needed to haha. Next move is mounting it to the window of my case. I've decided to leave the window in tact and just attatch the screen directly to it from the inside, the screen is bright enough to shine through the tint on the window without affecting visibility. That will allow a much cleaner and easier installation also. Just sucks I spent the extra $15 to get the one with the acryllic case. (Original plan was to use the case to mount it through a cutout in the window)
> 
> In case you were wondering, it's a 5" touchscreen LCD designed for a Raspbery Pi or other micro computer. Micro USB power and HDMI input. I'm gonna use it to display core speeds and temps while fullscreen without having to run one of those ugly overlays. (I'm difficult I know) Needed to come up with my own solution since there were no acceptable pre-made ones to do what I want this to do. Running as a second monitor for the time being, in the future I may purchase a Pi to attatch to the rear of it to run all sensors and programs. Would be very simple if I got android (CM) loaded up onto it.






Nice , Whats the resolution and viewing like on the display . I was thinking of picking one up for my Pico ITX


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> My current ghetto rig until I get the screen mounted. Still gotta try to find a more flexible DP->Hdmi cable or somethin. The one I bought is ridiculous. I mean, it's fantastic quality, nice and thick how you'd want it, but I needed slightly lower quality and flimsy so I could flex it however I wanted/needed to haha. Next move is mounting it to the window of my case. I've decided to leave the window in tact and just attatch the screen directly to it from the inside, the screen is bright enough to shine through the tint on the window without affecting visibility. That will allow a much cleaner and easier installation also. Just sucks I spent the extra $15 to get the one with the acryllic case. (Original plan was to use the case to mount it through a cutout in the window)
> 
> In case you were wondering, it's a 5" touchscreen LCD designed for a Raspbery Pi or other micro computer. Micro USB power and HDMI input. I'm gonna use it to display core speeds and temps while fullscreen without having to run one of those ugly overlays. (I'm difficult I know) Needed to come up with my own solution since there were no acceptable pre-made ones to do what I want this to do. Running as a second monitor for the time being, in the future I may purchase a Pi to attatch to the rear of it to run all sensors and programs. Would be very simple if I got android (CM) loaded up onto it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice , Whats the resolution and viewing like on the display . I was thinking of picking one up for my Pico ITX
Click to expand...

Resolution is only 800x480 but for that small of a screen it's plenty imo. I'm not using it to game or watch movies on haha. The viewing angles are eh, if you have the screen flipped (like i do) the backlight is on the bottom, so it does have a limited vieing angle, but it's good enough. I got one that came with a little acryllic case/stand and that's what I have it sitting on now, it's angled just right to be able to get the best vieing angle of the screen. The bigger 7" ones come in a lot higher resolution and would probably have a better viewing angle and screen.

The touch panel overlay on this gives the image a sort of grainy look. Again probably due to it being a resistive touch panel instead of a capacitive.


----------



## Tisser12

Slightly different than initally planned, but it works and looks nice! Project completed! need to get different HDMI/DP connectors because that cable I got is WAY too thick, but I was able to get it snaked around, not cable managed like I wanted though.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> Slightly different than initally planned, but it works and looks nice! Project completed! need to get different HDMI/DP connectors because that cable I got is WAY too thick, but I was able to get it snaked around, not cable managed like I wanted though.


very nice did you build log that by chance?


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> very nice did you build log that by chance?


Thank you! Idk what you mean build log it haha. But I did put the "instructions" or w/e on the thread for my PC if that's what you mean!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1595668/this-is-project-f-a-i-t-h-and-the-history-of-tisser-lots-of-pictures/0_50 Page 3 has all the stuff on it about this screen.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> Thank you! Idk what you mean build log it haha. But I did put the "instructions" or w/e on the thread for my PC if that's what you mean!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1595668/this-is-project-f-a-i-t-h-and-the-history-of-tisser-lots-of-pictures/0_50 Page 3 has all the stuff on it about this screen.


You should check out some build logs....Its pretty interesting to watch a crazy build happen step-by-step, and see how they did some of the things they did....


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You should check out some build logs....Its pretty interesting to watch a crazy build happen step-by-step, and see how they did some of the things they did....


Ohh okay, I wasn't sure haha I figured it was pretty straightforward so I didn't really log it step by step..

I got the screen in the mail,
removed the window from my case,
placed the screen where I wanted it to be,
used a screwdriver to score the marks for the holes,
drilled the holes out with a drill bit slightly larger than the bolts that were supplied with the screen (I bought the screen that came with a plexiglass "case")
and then just bolted it together using the supplied harware and rear piece of the screen bracket.

Ended up needing to use one of my angled HDMI adapters to get the cable to fit because the ports on the screen were a bit too close to the bevel of the case for the cable end to fit. Micro USB cable I have fits fine though.









But pretty much exactly what you'd think I did. Set it up as an extension of my main desktop and drug some rainmeter skins and a windows gadget over there for monitoring my stuff.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> Ohh okay, I wasn't sure haha I figured it was pretty straightforward so I didn't really log it step by step..
> 
> I got the screen in the mail,
> removed the window from my case,
> placed the screen where I wanted it to be,
> used a screwdriver to score the marks for the holes,
> drilled the holes out with a drill bit slightly larger than the bolts that were supplied with the screen (I bought the screen that came with a plexiglass "case")
> and then just bolted it together using the supplied harware and rear piece of the screen bracket.
> 
> Ended up needing to use one of my angled HDMI adapters to get the cable to fit because the ports on the screen were a bit too close to the bevel of the case for the cable end to fit. Micro USB cable I have fits fine though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But pretty much exactly what you'd think I did. Set it up as an extension of my main desktop and drug some rainmeter skins and a windows gadget over there for monitoring my stuff.


you dont happen to have a link to the screen you bought do you?


----------



## NiKiZ

Well, I ordered a Corsair H110i GT liquid cooler, but the case I want (Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic) is out of stock and it takes about 1-2 weeks to arrive.. We might see a ghetto mounted 280mm radiator in a Fujitsu Siemens case soon..


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you dont happen to have a link to the screen you bought do you?


I've posted this link so many times in the last few days these guys should be giving me free merch haha.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221972042028?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> I've posted this link so many times in the last few days these guys should be giving me free merch haha.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/221972042028?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


thanks man thats cheaper than i thought


----------



## TUFinside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBrowno*
> 
> My old Core2Duo Box was getting a bit slow, so I decided to do a bit of hardware modding to get it to go a bit faster.
> *Before:*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: After
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Benchmarks show a 5000% performance boost


Good one


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> thanks man thats cheaper than i thought


Np. And yeah, it's decently priced, and like I said, that's with the acryllic enclosure, if you just wanted to nix all that stuff you can find the 5" HDMI screens for around $25ish from china, but I wanted to make sure I got protection for the thing cuz I didn't know how sturdy it was. Another thing to watch out for is the cheaper ones tend to have an I/O port that the Pi plugs directly into, that adds an extra 1/2 in to the clearance needed on the rear of the screen, and also I'm not sure if they work JUST with HDMI.

I have the touch stuff turned off on my windows 7, so I didn't get to try it out and see if it worked for that or not, but I would assume it does. I wanna try and get a microHDMI-> HDMI cable and hook it all up to my phone to test out the touch (Just out of curiosity to see if it ACTUALLY works and I got what I paid for







)

Bigger 7" and 10" screens come with higher resolution and capcitive touch screens too, so if/when I get a bigger case I'm gonna go with one of them and either mount it to the EXTERIOR of my case or actually make a correct-sized cutout for it to poke through the window so I can still use the touch part if I want haha.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> Np. And yeah, it's decently priced, and like I said, that's with the acryllic enclosure, if you just wanted to nix all that stuff you can find the 5" HDMI screens for around $25ish from china, but I wanted to make sure I got protection for the thing cuz I didn't know how sturdy it was. Another thing to watch out for is the cheaper ones tend to have an I/O port that the Pi plugs directly into, that adds an extra 1/2 in to the clearance needed on the rear of the screen, and also I'm not sure if they work JUST with HDMI.
> 
> I have the touch stuff turned off on my windows 7, so I didn't get to try it out and see if it worked for that or not, but I would assume it does. I wanna try and get a microHDMI-> HDMI cable and hook it all up to my phone to test out the touch (Just out of curiosity to see if it ACTUALLY works and I got what I paid for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Bigger 7" and 10" screens come with higher resolution and capcitive touch screens too, so if/when I get a bigger case I'm gonna go with one of them and either mount it to the EXTERIOR of my case or actually make a correct-sized cutout for it to poke through the window so I can still use the touch part if I want haha.


well I'm considering it for the space where i removed the front panel on my primo...


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> well I'm considering it for the space where i removed the front panel on my primo...


Should work out for you. You tryin' to put it behind the mesh or make a cutout for it? You could probably fit a 7" vertically in there, measure it and check the dimensions with this one here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172235316575?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## mr squishy

I sleeved my Corsair M65 cable with some nice paracord:


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr squishy*
> 
> I sleeved my Corsair M65 cable with some nice paracord:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's not ghetto at all! It looks awesome, though.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> I removed the original Tri-X fans off my R9 290X since it's rather noisy at high speed and replaced it with a couple of 120mm fans, one from Seidon 240M fans to cool the big chunk of GPU heatsink and the other is Arctic F12 to cool the secondary heatsink and VRM portion of the card. Just use some rubber bands to keep it in place


I've done this many times. In fact most all of my GPUs have after-market fans on them.








Arctic F9 and F12 TC and PWM are often used. The TC is quick and easy way to have fan speed change dependent on heat. I plug fans into a 12v source and slip the temperature sensor between GPU cooler fin-pack and GPU PCB so as GPU works harder and heat rises the sensor speeds up the fan.


----------



## RockeyDA

This aint a case mod, but i find it to be near mind blowing.
top chip is intel 5mhz floting point co possessor,
bottom chip is amd 5mhz possessor
its almost a dual cpu system with 1 being intel and the other amd.



now i need to find a system with a Voodo 4 and a ATI Rage 3D Pro working together!

Also my only printer surprisingly works on this pc without me doing a driver hunt!


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> This aint a case mod, but i find it to be near mind blowing.
> top chip is intel 5mhz floting point co possessor,
> bottom chip is amd 5mhz possessor
> its almost a dual cpu system with 1 being intel and the other amd.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i need to find a system with a Voodo 4 and a ATI Rage 3D Pro working together!
> 
> Also my only printer surprisingly works on this pc without me doing a driver hunt!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's pretty interesting! As for the ATI Rage/Voodoo combo, 2x Voodoo 2-cards in SLI (Or a single Voodoo 1/2) should work without problems, as the Rage will act as "2D"-card. Then you can use the Rage in DirectX games and the Voodoo cards with Glide games.


----------



## NiKiZ

Well, I made my case a bit less ghetto. The SSD is now attached with double sided tape, (I put some electrical tape on the SSD, so it won't stick too strongly.) replaced the rear fan, which is also attached with electrical tape and made the cable management a bit better. The extra SATA cables are for a second SSD, which will hopefully arrive in Tuesday. I also got a Corsair H110i GT in the same order, which I have to somehow fit in here..







I am thinking about using the holes for the side panel and attaching it with zip ties.

The picture quality is pretty bad. I was tired/drunk/both when I took this picture, so I did not focus to the right parts and it did not use enough flash.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Finally completed my speaker / sub.
Costed under $120 for everything. 3.75inch speakers + 6inch sub. Using a 240W passive 24V power supply and dual 24V 80mm fans.






Making a really cheap water loop. All aluminum. Will add anti-freeze later.


----------



## Nukemaster

TheLAWNOOB, Good thing you did not screw those fans in or it would be be ghetto enough


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

The 9500 GT cooling loop up and running.

38C max in unigine, compared to 70C before.

The radiator is a heatcore from a F150, passive with no airflow.


----------



## Nukemaster

It will take a while to saturate that thing with the card you are running.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The 9500 GT cooling loop up and running.
> 
> 38C max in unigine, compared to 70C before.
> 
> The radiator is a heatcore from a F150, passive with no airflow.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
Click to expand...

is that a heater core? if so i recently melted one in a fire pit (i try to make fires with hot long lasting cores)


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The 9500 GT cooling loop up and running.
> 
> 38C max in unigine, compared to 70C before.
> 
> The radiator is a heatcore from a F150, passive with no airflow.


I don't exactly get whats happening here... i see a res going to GPU block, going to radiator, going back to res. Heat from the GPU creating a vapor chamber effect? I see wires int he res. Did I miss the specifics?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The 9500 GT cooling loop up and running.
> 
> 38C max in unigine, compared to 70C before.
> 
> The radiator is a heatcore from a F150, passive with no airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't exactly get whats happening here... i see a res going to GPU block, going to radiator, going back to res. Heat from the GPU creating a vapor chamber effect? I see wires int he res. Did I miss the specifics?
Click to expand...

The pump appears to be immersed in the "reservoir".


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The 9500 GT cooling loop up and running.
> 
> 38C max in unigine, compared to 70C before.
> 
> The radiator is a heatcore from a F150, passive with no airflow.
> 
> [IM300[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> I don't exactly get whats happening here... i see a res going to GPU block, going to radiator, going back to res. Heat from the GPU creating a vapor chamber effect? I see wires int he res. Did I miss the specifics?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The pump appears to be immersed in the "reservoir".
Click to expand...

I'm just glad you guys didn't make fun of my milk pitcher


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The 9500 GT cooling loop up and running.
> 
> 38C max in unigine, compared to 70C before.
> 
> The radiator is a heatcore from a F150, passive with no airflow.
> 
> [IM300[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> I don't exactly get whats happening here... i see a res going to GPU block, going to radiator, going back to res. Heat from the GPU creating a vapor chamber effect? I see wires int he res. Did I miss the specifics?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The pump appears to be immersed in the "reservoir".
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm just glad you guys didn't make fun of my milk pitcher
Click to expand...

Why would we? This the "Ghetto Rigging" Shenanigans thread. Such creative repurposing is not only expected, it is mandatory.


----------



## RockeyDA

ok, so i may be up for a mod some time down the road, im trying to get ahold of a second ibm portable for this.

i thought alot of this hardware looked like desktop hardware from era, so i did some poking around and like what i found.





this thing might become the closest thing to a gaming laptop i have ever had. have keybord converter, have vga-composite adapter, mini itx is tiny, would leave room for full sized psu, card slots could be used for ventilation.
imagine showing up to a lan party, using 1 powercord, playing gta-v on a black and amber 640x480 crt with a ibm buckling spring keyboard. also if i pulled off finding a motherbord with no ps/2 i have a ps/2 to usb adapter as well. if i do it its getting posted here, and if i do it its probably gonna happen after i get my tax tax returns. but i really want to do this, when i moved to PA my only TV for over a year was a "MAGNAVOX computer monitor 80" a 13" black and amber crt ran to a VCR, i used it to watch tv and play gamecube, super Mario sunshine is a game i never played in color. for me gaming on a small black and amber display wold bring back nostalgia of better times. the make or break of me doing this is if i can get a second one and the guy who gave me this said he had another if i wanted it.


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*


Oh, my eyes... This hurts my soul. lol


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Oh, my eyes... This hurts my soul. lol


its kinda cool but not really gaming..it would be a nice screen to display temperatures and such though


----------



## Eeyore888

That moment you run out of fittings, fan control connections, and matching tube... Spent all my money on hardware


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Oh, my eyes... This hurts my soul. lol


i can clean the image up in 2 ways, 1 send black and White signal (plan to use svideo and turn down saturation) and use insulated soldered cabling instead of random chunks of speak wire.


----------



## NiKiZ

I got an AIO water cooler. But my Fujitsu Siemens case obviously doesn't have the mounts for it.. So I attached it with 2 zipties.


----------



## seanzylol

if this isnt ghetto idk what is lol


----------



## ryanlusk

Here's my Dell Optiplex 780 E8500 custom, running two power supplies because Dell uses something different than an ATX PSU so I got one rigged up for the 5750 and the stock PSU for the motherboard, I put in 8GB total of RAM and it has 160GB/500GB HDDs and a 240GB SSD for boot, no 5.25. Nothing really fit in the case anymore. The top doesnt attach properly anymore I just lay it overtop of the wires and drives but it had to be cut. It kinda fits in on this thread


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seanzylol*
> 
> if this isnt ghetto idk what is lol


That's a tiny computer. Or the mug is huge.


----------



## seanzylol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKiZ*
> 
> That's a tiny computer. Or the mug is huge.


huge mug lol. But the case is pretty small. A average atx board barely fits and any full size card ends up sticking into the hard drive bay a bit.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

My tubing was touching my RX 480. The RX 480 runs hot and I don't want my tubes to melt, so...


----------



## NiKiZ

I didn't like the previous way of mounting the radiator on my case. It took a lot of space and the fans were exposed. The Corsair fans also didn't quite like to be in pull position, because there was so little space between the blades and the radiator. They sometimes got stuck in the radiator.. (Ouch!)

So I managed to mount it vertically.


I ran out of zip ties, so I attached them with some wire..


----------



## storm-83

I took an Ikea "door thingy", usable with the old expedit and new kallax line of shelves, and hacked it to fit my pc inside.



I have made a false front, behind the door, out of mesh steel, used as fan mounts



And put it in its new home


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *storm-83*
> 
> I took an Ikea "door thingy", usable with the old expedit and new kallax line of shelves, and hacked it to fit my pc inside.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have made a false front, behind the door, out of mesh steel, used as fan mounts
> 
> 
> 
> And put it in its new home


How hot does it run with door closed?


----------



## Oj010

Cable ties holding the LN2 pot down.



And when you run out of cable ties it's time to whip out the string


----------



## storm-83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How hot does it run with door closed?


i have put some black foam-patches on the bottom and left side of the door, so that it doesn't close too tightly - running all fans @7v there is no difference in temp with open / closed door.
the only problem i have, is that the laminate on both the "door thingy" and the shelf itself is amplifying the sound the pump makes (seidon 240m mounted as exhaust) and all 6 fans...
currently working on the solution to rectify this situation - mind you, it's not bad, but noticeable...


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *storm-83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> How hot does it run with door closed?
> 
> 
> 
> i have put some black foam-patches on the bottom and left side of the door, so that it doesn't close too tightly - running all fans @7v there is no difference in temp with open / closed door.
> the only problem i have, is that the laminate on both the "door thingy" and the shelf itself is amplifying the sound the pump makes (seidon 240m mounted as exhaust) and all 6 fans...
> currently working on the solution to rectify this situation - mind you, it's not bad, but noticeable...
Click to expand...

Stick some Dynamat to the inside of the door... or at a push, you can use this:


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Added a second monitor to my dual GTX 1070 setup


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> 
> 
> Cable ties holding the LN2 pot down.
> 
> 
> 
> And when you run out of cable ties it's time to whip out the string


Ohh snap, we know whats going on here...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Stick some Dynamat to the inside of the door... or at a push, you can use this:


Dynamat works quite well. I've used it several times to dampen sound with good results.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Added a second monitor to my dual GTX 1070 setup


Love your woodworking skills. The combination is pure ghetto!


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Ohh snap, we know whats going on here...


Yeah? And what might that be?


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oj010*
> 
> Yeah? And what might that be?


s939 for life!


----------



## Oj010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> s939 for life!


For sure, for me it's the best platform of all time.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I acquired terminal illness from trying to help my friend.

1 like = 1 prayer.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



He fried all his hard drives by plugging in a incompatible SATA power cable.

He used wrong screws for the case.

We had to remove and install the mobo into the case multiple times. He probably bent the mobo which caused a connection problem, which prevents the mobo from starting 80% of the time.

I got annoyed and tried to use the iGPU instead of the R9 290, and it doesn't power on.

I gave up.

He is going to burn his case.

GG


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Made a laptop cooling mat 'cause Canada got too hot.


----------



## CritiCal

Well, there is this home-made VGA extender I made for a briefcase computer build where the PSU was so close to the back of the GPU that a "real" VGA cable could not be persuaded to bend sufficiently to fit into the GPU. I made it by meticulously connecting scrap cables to the DVI-VGA adapter and then to the VGA cable, pin by pin







. In the end the cables were secured with hot glue. The system worked perfectly well for over a year, when the GPU was replaced with one that had native VGA, allowing me to dispense with the adapter, which meant that a normal VGA cable would fit.



Then there is the slightly less homemade-looking mounting bracket I made for my SSDs:




As my Corsair Obsidian 800D case doesn't have any more available hard drive mounts, I had to make this bracket to mount my SSDs. I have four of these in RAID10; one is not shown because it is mounted underneath the black plate that the bracket rests on, just above the power supply. I could not mount them all next to each other as that would obstruct the fan. The mounting bracket was made on my CNC machine, a tabletop model called 3040T.

It has 6mm thick SAN feet glued onto a 4mm solid SAN plate, then to hold the SSDs in place there is a second 4mm SAN plate with slots for the drives and cables routed into it. The drives have glue pads on the bottom so they won't jump out during transport, but these are small enough that it's not too hard to remove the drives. In addition to looking pretty sweet, the bracket ensures that there is sufficient clearance between the drive and the bottom of the case for the power cables to bend without too much tension (similar problem to the VGA cable above, hence the 6mm thick feet). Looking back I should probably have used black opaque plastic for the feet so that the white glue pads holding them in place would not be visible from above, but oh well. (Also red SATA cables... I know...







)


----------



## Gereti

Not too ghetto but... its something still










All images:


http://imgur.com/UL2Hb


----------



## costilletas

Introducing the ghettowidow










Ok, i plan to make a proper case shell, just wanted to do a proof of concept lol.


----------



## m1919

Lenovo Thinkstation D30 motherboard in a Corsair 800D... cooling is completely overkill with two H105s on top of E5-2680 v1s (for now).

The 800D was never meant to house a board this big, it's larger than EATX and SSI EEB. Took some work to get this beast mounted.



Some pics of the second H105 setup. Cut some aluminum angle to fit, pop riveted the brackets together and drilled the required holes; rock solid. Had to get a second intake in place to feed this rad, so I popped in some 5.25" bay covers from my old Cooler Master HAF932. The foam is in there to reduce flow noise, was pretty loud without the foam but it's not so bad now. Still need to get a filter in there.


----------



## RockeyDA

ok so my ibm portable modernization WILL happen, but first my 22nd bday present.



its my first sun computer and its a fussy one, "ok BOOT CDROM "would get a device not found error so i plugged and unplugged all cables leading to it and now it boots to a white screen.... so i have some trouble shooting to do there.

but yeah i got the other 2 ibm portables, the first one i had is the nicest having 640k ram and a 40mb hdd, the other one just 2 5 1/4 FDD
*****UPDATE****
one died, and the 640k one had a ram card in it and was really only 256k, it also had a price tag saying "$1,080.00" on it, no 99 anywhere..

i find this picture really satisfying... kinda sucks one died, if only it was psu that died because i have an extra psu.
the one dieing was kinda my falt, there caps had to reform because none of them were ran since the late 80's, the one that died was one that ran without giving me trubble, i ran it for 5min straight and now that motherboard overloads any power supply i run to it.


this is from the other one that still works, a PLUS hardcard 20, a 20mb 8bit ISA card-drive... kinda remids me of thoes 1tb ssd's out now.


i also performed a CRT swap putting the best one in my 640k pc with windows 1.03 and soon im gonna see if i can use that ram card to get 1mb of ram on it!


hallowed out ibm portable waiting for new motherboard, and im gonna gut a power supply and put newer atx psu guts in it. of the motherbord i get had a FDD controller im keeping the 2 5.25" drives in it, if not then i guss cdrom and make a cover for other.


----------



## rodaduck

not sure my ghetto is as strong as some of the other monsters on here , but ill post a couple may of posted one before not sure so ill post anyway.. one is my corsair m65 and MadCatz rat7 inbred mouse the frame is MadCatz with the adjustable parts MadCatz , the body and eng are corsair m65 , i was bored and its cool have a few things to do so it works a little more smooth, next is my couch system , looks like Roccat 


and a few others are releasing these things for over a hundred bucks , i had some parts and wanted to play star citizen in the living room on the 67 inch tv so i made this to play and play other games as well it is completely modular and with a few more refinements i don't see myself buying a name brand with this works great


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> not sure my ghetto is as strong as some of the other monsters on here , but ill post a couple may of posted one before not sure so ill post anyway.. one is my corsair m65 and MadCatz rat7 inbred mouse the frame is MadCatz with the adjustable parts MadCatz , the body and eng are corsair m65 , i was bored and its cool have a few things to do so it works a little more smooth, next is my couch system , looks like Roccat
> 
> 
> and a few others are releasing these things for over a hundred bucks , i had some parts and wanted to play star citizen in the living room on the 67 inch tv so i made this to play and play other games as well it is completely modular and with a few more refinements i don't see myself buying a name brand with this works great


Very nice! So is it all mounted onto a board? That is actually a great idea!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> ok so my ibm portable modernization WILL happen, but first my 22nd bday present.
> 
> 
> 
> its my first sun computer and its a fussy one, "ok BOOT CDROM "would get a device not found error so i plugged and unplugged all cables leading to it and now it boots to a white screen.... so i have some trouble shooting to do there.
> 
> but yeah i got the other 2 ibm portables, the first one i had is the nicest having 640k ram and a 40mb hdd, the other one just 2 5 1/4 FDD
> *****UPDATE****
> one died, and the 640k one had a ram card in it and was really only 256k, it also had a price tag saying "$1,080.00" on it, no 99 anywhere..
> 
> i find this picture really satisfying... kinda sucks one died, if only it was psu that died because i have an extra psu.
> the one dieing was kinda my falt, there caps had to reform because none of them were ran since the late 80's, the one that died was one that ran without giving me trubble, i ran it for 5min straight and now that motherboard overloads any power supply i run to it.
> 
> 
> this is from the other one that still works, a PLUS hardcard 20, a 20mb 8bit ISA card-drive... kinda remids me of thoes 1tb ssd's out now.
> 
> 
> i also performed a CRT swap putting the best one in my 640k pc with windows 1.03 and soon im gonna see if i can use that ram card to get 1mb of ram on it!
> 
> 
> hallowed out ibm portable waiting for new motherboard, and im gonna gut a power supply and put newer atx psu guts in it. of the motherbord i get had a FDD controller im keeping the 2 5.25" drives in it, if not then i guss cdrom and make a cover for other.


I love the old IBM's! I used to have a black 1990 aptiva, I wish I had never scrapped it, should have rebuilt it instead









Perhaps you can replace the caps? You really need a decent desoldering gun to do the job properly though. I had the caps replaced on the mainboard of my imac G5 and it works now, not as well as it used to but at least it starts!


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Before:


After (not fully dried):


----------



## NiKiZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After (not fully dried):


Did you add paint to the fan while it was spinning? That pattern actually looks pretty nice!


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Yeah, I did that once and the paint looked really cool, so I did it again this time


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Very nice! So is it all mounted onto a board? That is actually a great idea!
> I love the old IBM's! I used to have a black 1990 aptiva, I wish I had never scrapped it, should have rebuilt it instead
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps you can replace the caps? You really need a decent desoldering gun to do the job properly though. I had the caps replaced on the mainboard of my imac G5 and it works now, not as well as it used to but at least it starts!


well maby someday, but that bord is going on the wall until i need it (i use dead motherboards as wallpaper, i dont have many anymore because i pulled alot of parts over past 2 years) also more prgross on project, i know how im doing it 90%!

IBM motherbord next to full ATX MB

micro atx is to wide and with atx the vga port wold be cramed into the shielding of the monitor so it looks like im going to have to use mini itx, witch sounds horrible becase i cant find any that are dull cpu or have at least 2 pci-e slots

also i was working on building my self a case for my varryac.... it gave me some fireworks and now im set back a bit, its been 10hr since i tool these pics and after i post this post im going back out to probe it then try round 2 transformer testing.

loosly what my ghetto box will be like (still gonna add power cord and power light!)



were we went boom


bottom plate removed to show some sketchy insulation


aaaaaaaaaand what im hoping will be a successful patch up


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> aaaaaaaaaand what im hoping will be a successful patch up


I assume you're intending to sand some of that paint back, don't most variable transformers rely on some form of brush or contact that is able to freely move over the coils and adjust the turn ratio? How did you go about fixing what appears to be a break in the coil in the 3rd photo? What are you running off it? I've used them in EM laboratories, but never personally had a need for one so I'm curious.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> I assume you're intending to sand some of that paint back, don't most variable transformers rely on some form of brush or contact that is able to freely move over the coils and adjust the turn ratio? How did you go about fixing what appears to be a break in the coil in the 3rd photo? What are you running off it? I've used them in EM laboratories, but never personally had a need for one so I'm curious.


ile start by sayig it works but my amp meter is dead so ile be poking around inside it this weekend, also i did not paint the side were the brush goes as the brush i the only thing that contacts there, infact i actually sanded the contacts till they looked knew. ile post pics in a day or 2 but for now my test was simple, used it to dim my lamp and slow my fan in my bedroom when i went to bed.

controlling ac motor speed, slowing bringing an old pice of electrical hardwire back to life, or even slowly giving power till a speaker till it dies, thems be some reasons i took on this project.


----------



## SirRobinII

wine box + fan connectors cut out some old mobo + old 12V charger =


----------



## Volvo

I tend to work with cardboard and paper a lot.

Here's my latest creation:


http://imgur.com/LXW36


I'll post in the future regarding my cardboard air deflector on my HTPC.


----------



## lexer

My ghetto headphone amp with a case made from scrap aluminum and wood







, if someone is interested i have the CAD desing of both PCBs.
Sounds surprisingly good even with high impedance cans, maybe i can improve the design adding a op-amp acting as a buffer


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> My ghetto headphone amp with a case made from scrap aluminum and wood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , if someone is interested i have the CAD desing of both PCBs.
> Sounds surprisingly good even with high impedance cans, maybe i can improve the design adding a op-amp acting as a buffer


i like that...very nice...if i ate Beyer at soldering i might give that a go


----------



## tomytom99

I had to mount my SSD's somewhere without the HDD cages to fit my rad in the front. So, I did what I had to do.


----------



## warpuck

IS there any kind of prize ?










Not shown bay cooler and pump. Ghettoed pump and resevoir for the upper GPU a r9 380 and probably did not get a good look at the Wind Force cooler off a dead 7870 and placed on a R9 285. Been running like that for 3 months now. May be I will get a Corsair 900D but then there are other things to spend $350 on


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpuck*
> 
> IS there any kind of prize ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not shown bay cooler and pump. Ghettoed pump and resevoir for the upper GPU a r9 380 and probably did not get a good look at the Wind Force cooler off a dead 7870 and placed on a R9 285. Been running like that for 3 months now. May be I will get a Corsair 900D but then there are other things to spend $350 on


like a data vac? Lol....


----------



## Volvo

I decided paper was a bit hazardous.

So, recycled foam inserts from graphics cards boxes will do.

Monsters hidden from view...


And here they are with foam inserts keeping them stable and also helping to dampen some noise. Will be adding a foam filter soon - the suction is real.


----------



## Pawelr98

I welded and painted a front "trunk" for my e-bike.

I still wait for other parts like new gears and freewheel.
I'm basically changing entire crank.

Instead of current worn-out standard crank I will put there a custom-build crank.
2x28T gears mounted on a freewheel. New crank has freewheel thread.

This will stop the pedals from moving.It's not the cheapest way but the most universal one.
The cheapest way is flip-flop rear wheel(gears on both sides, usually one fixed and one freewheel) but getting 24" wheel in such variant is hard.
It's only cheap if one is to purchase flip-flop hub and simply convert rear wheel.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> I welded and painted a front "trunk" for my e-bike.
> 
> I still wait for other parts like new gears and freewheel.
> I'm basically changing entire crank.
> 
> Instead of current worn-out standard crank I will put there a custom-build crank.
> 2x28T gears mounted on a freewheel. New crank has freewheel thread.
> 
> This will stop the pedals from moving.It's not the cheapest way but the most universal one.
> The cheapest way is flip-flop rear wheel(gears on both sides, usually one fixed and one freewheel) but getting 24" wheel in such variant is hard.
> It's only cheap if one is to purchase flip-flop hub and simply convert rear wheel.


Have u tried if 26" wheels fits on your bike ? I have 700c wheels on my GT Agressor 26" and they fit perfect.

Changing hub and get the wheel on center is a bit tricky ... i made this tool with a old fork for that job


----------



## Powerg4

Genius! Where did you find such tiny fans though? Old laptops maybe?

Here is mine,RC airboat buit from juice bottles, zipties and a piece of MDF. Used an old RC car remote control connected to a relay to power 2 PC fans, it works and everything but I need a worm gear drive for the rudder, better start looking for a Vcr player to scavenge one from!


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Genius! Where did you find such tiny fans though? Old laptops maybe?
> 
> Here is mine,RC airboat buit from juice bottles, zipties and a piece of MDF. Used an old RC car remote control connected to a relay to power 2 PC fans, it works and everything but I need a worm gear drive for the rudder, better start looking for a Vcr player to scavenge one from!


Looks good.

The fans above look like normal 40mm fans. They used to sell HDD coolers that worked along the same lines.
My system from 2002-2003







look at the cooler under the optical drives







You may also see screws holding a fan on the side of the case.


----------



## ForNever

I know an AMD Slot A driven PC ready for gaming and mass cd copying when I see one. Nice nuke.


----------



## Powerg4

Those were the days hahah, my friends used to buy music CD's and then burn them onto CDR's, and we would exchange burnt CD's with each other to get new albums!

Interesting about those HDD coolers, I have opened many old 90's to early 2000 era computers and never seen one before, hang on to that beast as it might be getting rare soon, I know I had great difficulty in finding things like AGp cards when I was fixing up this old 90's emachine I had, suprisingly it still works in all it's pentium II glory with an (upgraded) 64mb ram!


----------



## Powerg4

The ghetto watercooling build has begun!
Water damaged hardware is inevitable








http://www.overclock.net/t/1609735/ghetto-water-cooling-build


----------



## Werne

Got a bunch of stuff again...



Spoiler: Makeshift water heater



I ran out of propane for my stove so I couldn't brew my morning tea. Usually, I would've went to the garage and brought a new tank but it was 5 in the morning, I wasn't willing to carry 30kg of crap up to the second floor that early. So, two PCI brackets, one zip tie and a molex connector later...





Not all that healthy but I don't exactly give a damn.





Spoiler: Fan controller from random electronic scrap





I used an LM317T and 550 Ohm resistor I pulled from a satellite receiver that is now my HTPC's case, 5K potentiometer from god knows what, used test board out of a dumpster, 3-pin fan connectors from a dead ASUS A8S-X (and one from a molex adapter), heatsink from a dead PSU and the male lugs from some scavenged vacuum cleaner electronics (by the way, Electrolux vacuum cleaners suck, literally and figuratively).

Since the heatsink lacked it's supports (got ripped off) I bent a paper clip into a U-shape, put it upside-down over the heatink, pushed it through the holes on the board, tighten the heatsink down with it then bent it's ends and put a big blob of solder over them to keep the thing in place. I taped a piece of pink cardboard on the bottom of the board with electrical tape so it can't short-circuit on anything, also taped a zip tie onto the cardboard for mounting. And that potentiometer is superglued onto the 5.25" bay cover cause I didn't have a nut to tighten it down.

Works pretty good, fans run at 9.8V tops due to voltage drop but I can't say I care much, I didn't mean to run them over 9V anyway.





Spoiler: Charging a GPS





I found that GPS in the trash but the adapter in which that cable plugs in was dead so I just jump-started the PSU and tied it's 12V cables to the lighter plug. I also put the GPS on top of the PSU's intake fan to cool it down a bit as it runs fairly warm while charging.

And after testing the thing I realized why it was in the dumpster I pulled it out of - it's signal reception sucks, works well on open road but loses signal in the city frequently, it's battery is crap too. Ah well, don't look a gifted horse in the mouth and stuff like that. I'll try to trade it for some DDR, my s939 machine could use more RAM.





Spoiler: Speaker box out of plastic cups and toilet paper



It's a crappy speaker, it deserves a crappy case.






Construction of the thing is simple - there are three cups in total, the inner most cup had it's bottom cut off so I can install the speaker more easily while the two other cups have a hole in the back through which the cable is routed. The 1W speaker I ripped out of a dead radio is just jammed in there, the cups are inserted into one another with two sheets of toilet paper between each pair of them, and I also put some toilet paper over the speaker since I find it makes the sound a bit better (plus, it prevents me from sneezing all over the thing).

The "science" behind it is that multiple cups and toilet paper is supposed to reduce harmonic vibrations and increase structural integrity. Does it work? Not really, although it does improve sound quality when compared to the speaker's original case.





Spoiler: Fixing my soldering iron



The cable on my soldering station crapped out, thermal probe wire broke somewhere so the thing gave a "no temp reading" error and beeped like mad. I was hoping it wouldn't fail so soon, the cable is cheap crap and finding a 5x0.5mm cable with 6mm outer diameter is a pain in the arse for me. While I was swearing and heading to unplug the station so I don't have to suffer it's god-awful beeping, I tripped over the perfect replacement.



Meanwhile, my brother spent all morning wondering why his internet connection is down.









By the way, this is a damn good cable, solders like a dream too. I'm thinking of getting 10m of it for when I need thin wires for my projects, it's a bargain considering that 1m of ethernet cable is less expensive than 1m of 2x0.5mm speaker cable over here ($0.4/m vs $0.75/m) while I get four times as many wires.





Spoiler: Nokia Radeon HD 5570



I was subbing a DDR score for the HWBOT team cup but my card is finicky, it's rear had to be bumped up slightly to pass POST for which I used some 3310s.



Taped two phones together with electrical tape (the upper 3310 keeps the one bumping the card on target) and pushed them onto the card with a cable tie. Functioned well enough.





Spoiler: DIY first aid kit



In case you didn't know, electrical tape and toilet paper make for an excellent emergency bandage to treat burns. I give 'em a big thumbs-up.



By the way, those aren't for show, my soldering iron fell off the desk and I instinctively grabbed it. I must say, that was a pretty bad decision.





Spoiler: Made a water battery





Solid-core copper wire and zinc-plated nail submerged in saltwater. Lemons would have been better but life gave me a bag of salt instead.

Why did I make it? Power was down that day and I wasn't wiling to sit in the dark all evening so I hooked up an LED to that thing. Yeah, I could've just used a 3V battery from a mobo but where's the fun in that?





Spoiler: Cardboard air conditioner






I put a bottle of almost frozen saltwater in a cardboard box with two holes in it, taped a fan on the hole up top and voila, air conditioner. Top of a CD box under the bottle is there to avoid condensation wetting my folder, the fan is taped onto the box cause I misplaced my baggie of fan screws and there's a folded A4 paper taped where a piece of the box was torn off.

Kinda sucks but right now I just don't care, anything that cools the air in my room is good, I'll jam more bottles in there later for better performance.





Spoiler: Laptop power brick modification



The local mountain rescue service was throwing away old equipment from their office so after some dumpster diving, I got my hands on three Compaq Evo N1020v and two HP ze4300 laptops. All of them were dead and cannibalized for spare parts to keep their working laptops working but I managed to assemble a fully functional n1020v. Battery lasts for 10m, the touchpad is crap and P4 is slow but who cares, I have a laptop for college.









One little problem though, there was no power brick in the dumpster and the only one I have is a patched up HP one (from my mom's nx6110, I think) which I can't even assemble properly cause I misplaced it's cables and half the casing. So, random adapter plug, desk lamp cable, some wires and a few row terminals later...



I also had some trouble inserting the plug since it's a bit too big to get in the charging port but it was nothing my drill couldn't fix. And no, I won't be running the power brick naked, I superglued it to the bottom of it's original casing so I can't fry myself while handling it and I'll wrap the rest up in packing tape after making sure the thing won't catch fire.

Speaking of catching fire, the laptop's cooling will require extensive modifications. Someone at Compaq thought mobile Pentium 4 is not hot enough to be used in a laptop so a desktop chip was crammed there instead. I already popped the lid off the CPU which helps a lot, but the northbridge and power delivery are both hot as hell.





Spoiler: Fixing the unfixable



While I managed to get nn n1020V up and running for college, I also fixed up an HP ze4318EA. It lacks some parts, those being the charger port, optical drive, battery, battery charging circuitry, and some pieces of it's casing. All missing parts are irrelevant except for the charger plug which I fixed by soldering wires directly to the mobo, then securing them to the charger plug with a rubber band.




The laptop, however, has a major flaw, which is this:



That flimsy piece of aluminum with a thermal pad attached is supposed to be it's northbridge heatsink. This is not acceptable, iGPU managed to run UT99 for a grand total of 15m before it bluescreened due to overheating. Time to fix it. n1020V has a decent heatsink so I just ripped it of with a French key (or whatever the hell that thing is called).



Problem is, Compaq used some sticky-as-hell double-sided thermal tape on the thing so I needed to use quite a bit of force, now the board is dead. Scraping the gunk off the heatsink is easy, drench it in acetone, leave for a few minutes and it will peel off right quick, except I messed up and overdid the acetone part so I had to burn some of it off. Bonus pic of burning heatsink.



Then I just sat the thing on TIM and screwed a bent paper clip to hold it in place. And since it was still crashing, I also ripped out some useless slot and installed a blower fan from a PlayStation 2 in it's place.



No problems ever since.













Spoiler: Improving wifi



I made a Yagi wi-fi antenna a few years back but I keep forgetting to buy a cable for it since my old antenna worked. A few days ago I had problems with wifi connectivity and since I was too lazy to go buy a cable, I decided to make one myself.





I disassembled a crappy "range extending" antenna which, funny enough, actually shortened my wifi range, soldered a cable from a random adapter to it's inner terminals after ripping it's guts out, extended the cable twice cause it was too short, and finally soldered it to the new antenna. And then, of course, I used zip-ties to attach the thing to my closet's handles.



I should really make a mounting arm for it.





Spoiler: Overvolting a CPU



I overvolt my CPUs with tin foil and super glue.



1.325V VID (1.312V under load) + bridging VID3 to VSS = 1.375V (1.344V under load), which bumped me up from 2.75GHz to 2.93GHz.

Unfortunately, CPU scales like crap past that point, needs +75mV for 3.03GHz.













Spoiler: GPU cooler on CPU



Well, my HD 5570 died, it's voltage controller crapped out. Loving to recycle old crap, I decided to re-purpose it's cooler, the thing was cooling a 60W GPU so I figured it would do good on a 25W CPU. And so this happened:



Lower profile than the stock cooler, cools a lot better than the stock cooler, and it's a lot quieter than the stock cooler. Since I couldn't think of any other way to mount it, I zip-tied it. And the connector for the fan cable is just two small pieces of a paperclip soldered onto a molex cable, then jammed into the fan's contacts and wrapped in electrical tape.



EDIT: And since I've been busy today, here's some more.



Spoiler: USB cable RF shielding



I needed a USB extension cable so I soldered a female USB connector from some old charger to a USB cable I cut off a credit card reader. Then after soldering the wires together I needed some RF shielding for that part of the cable so I used this:





Orbit chewing gum protects both your teeth and your data. Aluminum isn't so great at RF shielding but it sure beats having nothing.





Spoiler: New crocodile clip cable for my multimeter





Left over from the water battery, I needed another crocodile clip for measuring some current so I re-purposed this thing.





Spoiler: Phone radio antenna





Another re-purposing, I used a wifi antenna from above and soldered it to a 3.5mm jack, figured that's a better use for it than becoming a key hanger. Works better than the bundle of wire I had there before.





Spoiler: Improving close-up camera shots






Allows me to take clear pics of stuff that would usually be blurry as hell (like the Orbit package).





Spoiler: Warming up my bagel





What can I say, I like warm bagels.


----------



## Simmons572

Holy crap, das a lot of ghetto! Though I have one observation to make..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warming up my bagel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What can I say, I like warm bagels.


That doesn't look a bagel...

Aside from that , you've got some really cool projects in there


----------



## RockeyDA

so im making progress on my modernization of my ibm portable faster than expected, over the weekend i threw together enough hardware to actually give it a test run.
a few things i need to really get project going *short dvi-vga adapter, 6" or less vga calbe, a powersupply in the 600w range, a front panel audio and usb thingy, and a different gpu as im giving this one to my dad.* there are more things i need but i have them laying around IE scrap plastic and plexi glass, or switches buttons and lights.
also my plan to use the luma from S-vdieo was a good one, cleard up my image big time!

Installing Server 08 (win 6.0)


Running 08 with a tweekd high contrast theme in lovely 640x480


Video of me testing it out..



also yesterday one of my friends convinced me to spend the night at his place with promise of good food and a 5:30am ride to work, i packed all my cables in my psu box and used an old lamp cord to tie the ibm portable shut and took it to his place, i had to take it to work so i set it up behind what you would call my general work area on top of a crate next to my ghetto boom box, ran the 2 together, and on my breaks me and one of my coworkers were taking turns playing BeamNG.Drive, honestly it was a bad ideah because a 15min break only lasted 5 min... so my computer speeds up time. aslo its still at work and im probably gonna leave it there all week,
oh, and i replaced the motherboard box with a sheet of cardboard as a temp insulator.


----------



## Pawelr98

So today I got my parts and assembled a functional crank with freewheel.

2x28T gears.
One gear for the electric motor and second one for the rear wheel.
This way I can use crank as a passthrough for electric motor while the pedals won't rotate.

But while I succeded in making the crank then for some reason my PWM controller shorted out.
At least one of two main transistors which are switching the main signal shorted.

Two P75NF75 transistors rated for 75V 80A.

I still have two functional RFP50N06 transistors salvaged from fried UPS unit.
They are rated for 60V 50A which is lower than original but I'm not using the full potential of this controller anyway.

Considering that both transistors were connected in parallel I think both may be fried.


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I still have two functional RFP50N06 transistors salvaged from fried UPS unit. They are rated for 60V 50A which is lower than original but I'm not using the full potential of this controller anyway.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Make sure you test those transistors thoroughly, I had a UPS unit with identical model number (FP50N06) N-Channel MOSFETs that failed, charring a large section of the circuit board. I'm not sure how many were taken out during the failure, but I replaced all of them as a precaution, since the UPS would probably work better with all similar batch semiconductor devices anyway.
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2861869/][IMG alt=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2861869/width/350/height/700/flags/LL[/URL]


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I still have two functional RFP50N06 transistors salvaged from fried UPS unit. They are rated for 60V 50A which is lower than original but I'm not using the full potential of this controller anyway.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Make sure you test those transistors thoroughly, I had a UPS unit with identical model number (FP50N06) N-Channel MOSFETs that failed, charring a large section of the circuit board. I'm not sure how many were taken out during the failure, but I replaced all of them as a precaution, since the UPS would probably work better with all similar batch semiconductor devices anyway.
> 
> [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2861869/][IMG alt=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2861869/width/350/height/700/flags/LL[/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> I salvaged four of RFP50N06 transistors from that UPS.
> 
> One works as a "relay" so that I can cut off the power ( I simply have motorcycle ignition switch connected to it).
> Second one was serving the same function but for some reason it shorted after few hours.
> 
> I will check if either of two original transistors in the PWM controller are still functional.
> As they are in parallel one shorting=entire line shorted so without desoldering I cannot tell if one or both shorted.
Click to expand...


----------



## Pawelr98

After all only one of the transistors shorted.

Replaced the shorted one with one from that fried UPS and everything works fine now.



Heavy Bicycle requires strong bicycle stand.


----------



## RockeyDA

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Got a bunch of stuff again...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Makeshift water heater
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out of propane for my stove so I couldn't brew my morning tea. Usually, I would've went to the garage and brought a new tank but it was 5 in the morning, I wasn't willing to carry 30kg of crap up to the second floor that early. So, two PCI brackets, one zip tie and a molex connector later...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all that healthy but I don't exactly give a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fan controller from random electronic scrap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used an LM317T and 550 Ohm resistor I pulled from a satellite receiver that is now my HTPC's case, 5K potentiometer from god knows what, used test board out of a dumpster, 3-pin fan connectors from a dead ASUS A8S-X (and one from a molex adapter), heatsink from a dead PSU and the male lugs from some scavenged vacuum cleaner electronics (by the way, Electrolux vacuum cleaners suck, literally and figuratively).
> 
> Since the heatsink lacked it's supports (got ripped off) I bent a paper clip into a U-shape, put it upside-down over the heatink, pushed it through the holes on the board, tighten the heatsink down with it then bent it's ends and put a big blob of solder over them to keep the thing in place. I taped a piece of pink cardboard on the bottom of the board with electrical tape so it can't short-circuit on anything, also taped a zip tie onto the cardboard for mounting. And that potentiometer is superglued onto the 5.25" bay cover cause I didn't have a nut to tighten it down.
> 
> Works pretty good, fans run at 9.8V tops due to voltage drop but I can't say I care much, I didn't mean to run them over 9V anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Charging a GPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that GPS in the trash but the adapter in which that cable plugs in was dead so I just jump-started the PSU and tied it's 12V cables to the lighter plug. I also put the GPS on top of the PSU's intake fan to cool it down a bit as it runs fairly warm while charging.
> 
> And after testing the thing I realized why it was in the dumpster I pulled it out of - it's signal reception sucks, works well on open road but loses signal in the city frequently, it's battery is crap too. Ah well, don't look a gifted horse in the mouth and stuff like that. I'll try to trade it for some DDR, my s939 machine could use more RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Speaker box out of plastic cups and toilet paper
> 
> 
> 
> It's a crappy speaker, it deserves a crappy case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Construction of the thing is simple - there are three cups in total, the inner most cup had it's bottom cut off so I can install the speaker more easily while the two other cups have a hole in the back through which the cable is routed. The 1W speaker I ripped out of a dead radio is just jammed in there, the cups are inserted into one another with two sheets of toilet paper between each pair of them, and I also put some toilet paper over the speaker since I find it makes the sound a bit better (plus, it prevents me from sneezing all over the thing).
> 
> The "science" behind it is that multiple cups and toilet paper is supposed to reduce harmonic vibrations and increase structural integrity. Does it work? Not really, although it does improve sound quality when compared to the speaker's original case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fixing my soldering iron
> 
> 
> 
> The cable on my soldering station crapped out, thermal probe wire broke somewhere so the thing gave a "no temp reading" error and beeped like mad. I was hoping it wouldn't fail so soon, the cable is cheap crap and finding a 5x0.5mm cable with 6mm outer diameter is a pain in the arse for me. While I was swearing and heading to unplug the station so I don't have to suffer it's god-awful beeping, I tripped over the perfect replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, my brother spent all morning wondering why his internet connection is down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, this is a damn good cable, solders like a dream too. I'm thinking of getting 10m of it for when I need thin wires for my projects, it's a bargain considering that 1m of ethernet cable is less expensive than 1m of 2x0.5mm speaker cable over here ($0.4/m vs $0.75/m) while I get four times as many wires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Nokia Radeon HD 5570
> 
> 
> 
> I was subbing a DDR score for the HWBOT team cup but my card is finicky, it's rear had to be bumped up slightly to pass POST for which I used some 3310s.
> 
> 
> 
> Taped two phones together with electrical tape (the upper 3310 keeps the one bumping the card on target) and pushed them onto the card with a cable tie. Functioned well enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: DIY first aid kit
> 
> 
> 
> In case you didn't know, electrical tape and toilet paper make for an excellent emergency bandage to treat burns. I give 'em a big thumbs-up.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, those aren't for show, my soldering iron fell off the desk and I instinctively grabbed it. I must say, that was a pretty bad decision.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Made a water battery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solid-core copper wire and zinc-plated nail submerged in saltwater. Lemons would have been better but life gave me a bag of salt instead.
> 
> Why did I make it? Power was down that day and I wasn't wiling to sit in the dark all evening so I hooked up an LED to that thing. Yeah, I could've just used a 3V battery from a mobo but where's the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Cardboard air conditioner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a bottle of almost frozen saltwater in a cardboard box with two holes in it, taped a fan on the hole up top and voila, air conditioner. Top of a CD box under the bottle is there to avoid condensation wetting my folder, the fan is taped onto the box cause I misplaced my baggie of fan screws and there's a folded A4 paper taped where a piece of the box was torn off.
> 
> Kinda sucks but right now I just don't care, anything that cools the air in my room is good, I'll jam more bottles in there later for better performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Laptop power brick modification
> 
> 
> 
> The local mountain rescue service was throwing away old equipment from their office so after some dumpster diving, I got my hands on three Compaq Evo N1020v and two HP ze4300 laptops. All of them were dead and cannibalized for spare parts to keep their working laptops working but I managed to assemble a fully functional n1020v. Battery lasts for 10m, the touchpad is crap and P4 is slow but who cares, I have a laptop for college.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One little problem though, there was no power brick in the dumpster and the only one I have is a patched up HP one (from my mom's nx6110, I think) which I can't even assemble properly cause I misplaced it's cables and half the casing. So, random adapter plug, desk lamp cable, some wires and a few row terminals later...
> 
> 
> 
> I also had some trouble inserting the plug since it's a bit too big to get in the charging port but it was nothing my drill couldn't fix. And no, I won't be running the power brick naked, I superglued it to the bottom of it's original casing so I can't fry myself while handling it and I'll wrap the rest up in packing tape after making sure the thing won't catch fire.
> 
> Speaking of catching fire, the laptop's cooling will require extensive modifications. Someone at Compaq thought mobile Pentium 4 is not hot enough to be used in a laptop so a desktop chip was crammed there instead. I already popped the lid off the CPU which helps a lot, but the northbridge and power delivery are both hot as hell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fixing the unfixable
> 
> 
> 
> While I managed to get nn n1020V up and running for college, I also fixed up an HP ze4318EA. It lacks some parts, those being the charger port, optical drive, battery, battery charging circuitry, and some pieces of it's casing. All missing parts are irrelevant except for the charger plug which I fixed by soldering wires directly to the mobo, then securing them to the charger plug with a rubber band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The laptop, however, has a major flaw, which is this:
> 
> 
> 
> That flimsy piece of aluminum with a thermal pad attached is supposed to be it's northbridge heatsink. This is not acceptable, iGPU managed to run UT99 for a grand total of 15m before it bluescreened due to overheating. Time to fix it. n1020V has a decent heatsink so I just ripped it of with a French key (or whatever the hell that thing is called).
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is, Compaq used some sticky-as-hell double-sided thermal tape on the thing so I needed to use quite a bit of force, now the board is dead. Scraping the gunk off the heatsink is easy, drench it in acetone, leave for a few minutes and it will peel off right quick, except I messed up and overdid the acetone part so I had to burn some of it off. Bonus pic of burning heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I just sat the thing on TIM and screwed a bent paper clip to hold it in place. And since it was still crashing, I also ripped out some useless slot and installed a blower fan from a PlayStation 2 in it's place.
> 
> 
> 
> No problems ever since.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Improving wifi
> 
> 
> 
> I made a Yagi wi-fi antenna a few years back but I keep forgetting to buy a cable for it since my old antenna worked. A few days ago I had problems with wifi connectivity and since I was too lazy to go buy a cable, I decided to make one myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I disassembled a crappy "range extending" antenna which, funny enough, actually shortened my wifi range, soldered a cable from a random adapter to it's inner terminals after ripping it's guts out, extended the cable twice cause it was too short, and finally soldered it to the new antenna. And then, of course, I used zip-ties to attach the thing to my closet's handles.
> 
> 
> 
> I should really make a mounting arm for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Overvolting a CPU
> 
> 
> 
> I overvolt my CPUs with tin foil and super glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.325V VID (1.312V under load) + bridging VID3 to VSS = 1.375V (1.344V under load), which bumped me up from 2.75GHz to 2.93GHz.
> 
> Unfortunately, CPU scales like crap past that point, needs +75mV for 3.03GHz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: GPU cooler on CPU
> 
> 
> 
> Well, my HD 5570 died, it's voltage controller crapped out. Loving to recycle old crap, I decided to re-purpose it's cooler, the thing was cooling a 60W GPU so I figured it would do good on a 25W CPU. And so this happened:
> 
> 
> 
> Lower profile than the stock cooler, cools a lot better than the stock cooler, and it's a lot quieter than the stock cooler. Since I couldn't think of any other way to mount it, I zip-tied it. And the connector for the fan cable is just two small pieces of a paperclip soldered onto a molex cable, then jammed into the fan's contacts and wrapped in electrical tape.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: And since I've been busy today, here's some more.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: USB cable RF shielding
> 
> 
> 
> I needed a USB extension cable so I soldered a female USB connector from some old charger to a USB cable I cut off a credit card reader. Then after soldering the wires together I needed some RF shielding for that part of the cable so I used this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orbit chewing gum protects both your teeth and your data. Aluminum isn't so great at RF shielding but it sure beats having nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New crocodile clip cable for my multimeter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left over from the water battery, I needed another crocodile clip for measuring some current so I re-purposed this thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Phone radio antenna
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another re-purposing, I used a wifi antenna from above and soldered it to a 3.5mm jack, figured that's a better use for it than becoming a key hanger. Works better than the bundle of wire I had there before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Improving close-up camera shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Allows me to take clear pics of stuff that would usually be blurry as hell (like the Orbit package).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warming up my bagel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What can I say, I like warm bagels.






HOLD UP, are you saying forcing the voltage higher forces OC? because if you had a motherboard that could over clock i would assume you would raise voltage in bios.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> HOLD UP, are you saying forcing the voltage higher forces OC? because if you had a motherboard that could over clock i would assume you would raise voltage in bios.


Not all motherboards have the voltage controls available. Older boards needed an adjustable base clock so they could support multiple FSB speeds.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Got a bunch of stuff again...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Makeshift water heater
> 
> 
> 
> I ran out of propane for my stove so I couldn't brew my morning tea. Usually, I would've went to the garage and brought a new tank but it was 5 in the morning, I wasn't willing to carry 30kg of crap up to the second floor that early. So, two PCI brackets, one zip tie and a molex connector later...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all that healthy but I don't exactly give a damn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fan controller from random electronic scrap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used an LM317T and 550 Ohm resistor I pulled from a satellite receiver that is now my HTPC's case, 5K potentiometer from god knows what, used test board out of a dumpster, 3-pin fan connectors from a dead ASUS A8S-X (and one from a molex adapter), heatsink from a dead PSU and the male lugs from some scavenged vacuum cleaner electronics (by the way, Electrolux vacuum cleaners suck, literally and figuratively).
> 
> Since the heatsink lacked it's supports (got ripped off) I bent a paper clip into a U-shape, put it upside-down over the heatink, pushed it through the holes on the board, tighten the heatsink down with it then bent it's ends and put a big blob of solder over them to keep the thing in place. I taped a piece of pink cardboard on the bottom of the board with electrical tape so it can't short-circuit on anything, also taped a zip tie onto the cardboard for mounting. And that potentiometer is superglued onto the 5.25" bay cover cause I didn't have a nut to tighten it down.
> 
> Works pretty good, fans run at 9.8V tops due to voltage drop but I can't say I care much, I didn't mean to run them over 9V anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Charging a GPS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that GPS in the trash but the adapter in which that cable plugs in was dead so I just jump-started the PSU and tied it's 12V cables to the lighter plug. I also put the GPS on top of the PSU's intake fan to cool it down a bit as it runs fairly warm while charging.
> 
> And after testing the thing I realized why it was in the dumpster I pulled it out of - it's signal reception sucks, works well on open road but loses signal in the city frequently, it's battery is crap too. Ah well, don't look a gifted horse in the mouth and stuff like that. I'll try to trade it for some DDR, my s939 machine could use more RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Speaker box out of plastic cups and toilet paper
> 
> 
> 
> It's a crappy speaker, it deserves a crappy case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Construction of the thing is simple - there are three cups in total, the inner most cup had it's bottom cut off so I can install the speaker more easily while the two other cups have a hole in the back through which the cable is routed. The 1W speaker I ripped out of a dead radio is just jammed in there, the cups are inserted into one another with two sheets of toilet paper between each pair of them, and I also put some toilet paper over the speaker since I find it makes the sound a bit better (plus, it prevents me from sneezing all over the thing).
> 
> The "science" behind it is that multiple cups and toilet paper is supposed to reduce harmonic vibrations and increase structural integrity. Does it work? Not really, although it does improve sound quality when compared to the speaker's original case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fixing my soldering iron
> 
> 
> 
> The cable on my soldering station crapped out, thermal probe wire broke somewhere so the thing gave a "no temp reading" error and beeped like mad. I was hoping it wouldn't fail so soon, the cable is cheap crap and finding a 5x0.5mm cable with 6mm outer diameter is a pain in the arse for me. While I was swearing and heading to unplug the station so I don't have to suffer it's god-awful beeping, I tripped over the perfect replacement.
> 
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, my brother spent all morning wondering why his internet connection is down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, this is a damn good cable, solders like a dream too. I'm thinking of getting 10m of it for when I need thin wires for my projects, it's a bargain considering that 1m of ethernet cable is less expensive than 1m of 2x0.5mm speaker cable over here ($0.4/m vs $0.75/m) while I get four times as many wires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Nokia Radeon HD 5570
> 
> 
> 
> I was subbing a DDR score for the HWBOT team cup but my card is finicky, it's rear had to be bumped up slightly to pass POST for which I used some 3310s.
> 
> 
> 
> Taped two phones together with electrical tape (the upper 3310 keeps the one bumping the card on target) and pushed them onto the card with a cable tie. Functioned well enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: DIY first aid kit
> 
> 
> 
> In case you didn't know, electrical tape and toilet paper make for an excellent emergency bandage to treat burns. I give 'em a big thumbs-up.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, those aren't for show, my soldering iron fell off the desk and I instinctively grabbed it. I must say, that was a pretty bad decision.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Made a water battery
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solid-core copper wire and zinc-plated nail submerged in saltwater. Lemons would have been better but life gave me a bag of salt instead.
> 
> Why did I make it? Power was down that day and I wasn't wiling to sit in the dark all evening so I hooked up an LED to that thing. Yeah, I could've just used a 3V battery from a mobo but where's the fun in that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Cardboard air conditioner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a bottle of almost frozen saltwater in a cardboard box with two holes in it, taped a fan on the hole up top and voila, air conditioner. Top of a CD box under the bottle is there to avoid condensation wetting my folder, the fan is taped onto the box cause I misplaced my baggie of fan screws and there's a folded A4 paper taped where a piece of the box was torn off.
> 
> Kinda sucks but right now I just don't care, anything that cools the air in my room is good, I'll jam more bottles in there later for better performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Laptop power brick modification
> 
> 
> 
> The local mountain rescue service was throwing away old equipment from their office so after some dumpster diving, I got my hands on three Compaq Evo N1020v and two HP ze4300 laptops. All of them were dead and cannibalized for spare parts to keep their working laptops working but I managed to assemble a fully functional n1020v. Battery lasts for 10m, the touchpad is crap and P4 is slow but who cares, I have a laptop for college.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One little problem though, there was no power brick in the dumpster and the only one I have is a patched up HP one (from my mom's nx6110, I think) which I can't even assemble properly cause I misplaced it's cables and half the casing. So, random adapter plug, desk lamp cable, some wires and a few row terminals later...
> 
> 
> 
> I also had some trouble inserting the plug since it's a bit too big to get in the charging port but it was nothing my drill couldn't fix. And no, I won't be running the power brick naked, I superglued it to the bottom of it's original casing so I can't fry myself while handling it and I'll wrap the rest up in packing tape after making sure the thing won't catch fire.
> 
> Speaking of catching fire, the laptop's cooling will require extensive modifications. Someone at Compaq thought mobile Pentium 4 is not hot enough to be used in a laptop so a desktop chip was crammed there instead. I already popped the lid off the CPU which helps a lot, but the northbridge and power delivery are both hot as hell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Fixing the unfixable
> 
> 
> 
> While I managed to get nn n1020V up and running for college, I also fixed up an HP ze4318EA. It lacks some parts, those being the charger port, optical drive, battery, battery charging circuitry, and some pieces of it's casing. All missing parts are irrelevant except for the charger plug which I fixed by soldering wires directly to the mobo, then securing them to the charger plug with a rubber band.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The laptop, however, has a major flaw, which is this:
> 
> 
> 
> That flimsy piece of aluminum with a thermal pad attached is supposed to be it's northbridge heatsink. This is not acceptable, iGPU managed to run UT99 for a grand total of 15m before it bluescreened due to overheating. Time to fix it. n1020V has a decent heatsink so I just ripped it of with a French key (or whatever the hell that thing is called).
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is, Compaq used some sticky-as-hell double-sided thermal tape on the thing so I needed to use quite a bit of force, now the board is dead. Scraping the gunk off the heatsink is easy, drench it in acetone, leave for a few minutes and it will peel off right quick, except I messed up and overdid the acetone part so I had to burn some of it off. Bonus pic of burning heatsink.
> 
> 
> 
> Then I just sat the thing on TIM and screwed a bent paper clip to hold it in place. And since it was still crashing, I also ripped out some useless slot and installed a blower fan from a PlayStation 2 in it's place.
> 
> 
> 
> No problems ever since.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Improving wifi
> 
> 
> 
> I made a Yagi wi-fi antenna a few years back but I keep forgetting to buy a cable for it since my old antenna worked. A few days ago I had problems with wifi connectivity and since I was too lazy to go buy a cable, I decided to make one myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I disassembled a crappy "range extending" antenna which, funny enough, actually shortened my wifi range, soldered a cable from a random adapter to it's inner terminals after ripping it's guts out, extended the cable twice cause it was too short, and finally soldered it to the new antenna. And then, of course, I used zip-ties to attach the thing to my closet's handles.
> 
> 
> 
> I should really make a mounting arm for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Overvolting a CPU
> 
> 
> 
> I overvolt my CPUs with tin foil and super glue.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.325V VID (1.312V under load) + bridging VID3 to VSS = 1.375V (1.344V under load), which bumped me up from 2.75GHz to 2.93GHz.
> 
> Unfortunately, CPU scales like crap past that point, needs +75mV for 3.03GHz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: GPU cooler on CPU
> 
> 
> 
> Well, my HD 5570 died, it's voltage controller crapped out. Loving to recycle old crap, I decided to re-purpose it's cooler, the thing was cooling a 60W GPU so I figured it would do good on a 25W CPU. And so this happened:
> 
> 
> 
> Lower profile than the stock cooler, cools a lot better than the stock cooler, and it's a lot quieter than the stock cooler. Since I couldn't think of any other way to mount it, I zip-tied it. And the connector for the fan cable is just two small pieces of a paperclip soldered onto a molex cable, then jammed into the fan's contacts and wrapped in electrical tape.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: And since I've been busy today, here's some more.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: USB cable RF shielding
> 
> 
> 
> I needed a USB extension cable so I soldered a female USB connector from some old charger to a USB cable I cut off a credit card reader. Then after soldering the wires together I needed some RF shielding for that part of the cable so I used this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Orbit chewing gum protects both your teeth and your data. Aluminum isn't so great at RF shielding but it sure beats having nothing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: New crocodile clip cable for my multimeter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left over from the water battery, I needed another crocodile clip for measuring some current so I re-purposed this thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Phone radio antenna
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another re-purposing, I used a wifi antenna from above and soldered it to a 3.5mm jack, figured that's a better use for it than becoming a key hanger. Works better than the bundle of wire I had there before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Improving close-up camera shots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Allows me to take clear pics of stuff that would usually be blurry as hell (like the Orbit package).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warming up my bagel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What can I say, I like warm bagels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HOLD UP, are you saying forcing the voltage higher forces OC? because if you had a motherboard that could over clock i would assume you would raise voltage in bios.
Click to expand...

What he did is a simple BSEL mod.

It tricks the motherboard into thinking that the cpu default voltage is higher.
BSEL mods can also change default detected FSB allowing OC on any motherboard.

It even works both ways. You can also underclock (lowering the FSB) and undervolt.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*


well i wish i knew this when i still had my dellxps600, that thaing had a monster cooling system in it.. either way i want to overclock my pentium D 950 in my mini dell. aslo i sent this mesege from the modded ibm portable from work... using a high contrast theme in chrome makes it even better!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> well i wish i knew this when i still had my dellxps600, that thaing had a monster cooling system in it.. either way i want to overclock my pentium D 950 in my mini dell. aslo i sent this mesege from the modded ibm portable from work... using a high contrast theme in chrome makes it even better!
Click to expand...

For some cpu's it's hard to get BSEL mod shematics.

As example once I tried to get some schemes for E7xxx series and it was pretty much impossible (even though I know that such mods exist).

At worst you can get the cpu pinout and search for right pins yourself.
Because all you need to do is connect/cover some pins.


----------



## Powerg4

Ok so this one isn't computer related.

But basically I refused to throw away this takeaway coffee cup because it just happens to be the perfect size for my car cupholder and I'm kind of sentimental about it.
Trouble is as I'm sure you know the things are made of cardboard and it really wasn't holding up so well after re using it 5-6 times!









So I put my ghetto skills to work! I found this plastic flask with a broken lid, cut it in half, wrapped it in bubble wrap to make it fit inside the cardboard cup and added duct tape.

And now it shall last forever!


----------



## Nenkitsune

My daughters cruddy hp computer has been having strange crashing issues (bsods, reboots, and hard freezes) short of replacing the amd 7750 with another cpu and swapping the mobo ive tried everything.

So i decided to say screw that and i just made a bench setup using my old hardware. Its an old amd 940BE underclocked to 2.5ghz and 1.2v, 8gb of ram, and an amd hd7750 gpu. Runs fine on the little hp's power supply. The motherboard is too big for the case, and i cant replace the heatsink so i just stuffed the little 92mm fan from the hp case onto it to keep it nice and cool.

The mobo has an issue though. A diode between the cmos battery and bios chip blew up so if it loses power the bios resets (so i decided to just remove the battery lol)


----------



## Pawelr98

Added front light to my e-bike.

12V 20W halogen light bulb placed inside normal bicycle light.

It's getting dark so I have mounted this light to ride legally at evenings (law says I need to have lights when riding in dark).

Next I will try to do something about Turn signals and rear light.I have an old kit that does exactly that.
I will have to extend the wire and perhaps adapt the kit to be powered from 12V.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Pico ITX . I added a Bluetooth / Wifi module on the Mini PCIe and added a side plate made from fiber copper clad board to hold the two antennas ( they are meant for cellular modules but work well ) . SSD is mounted on its side aswell with a screw and spacer .

This unit it for retro arcade emulation and will be placed inside the frame of a crt monitor .


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Pico ITX . I added a Bluetooth / Wifi module on the Mini PCIe and added a side plate made from fiber copper clad board to hold the two antennas ( they are meant for cellular modules but work well ) . SSD is mounted on its side aswell with a screw and spacer .
> 
> This unit it for retro arcade emulation and will be placed inside the frame of a crt monitor .


Very cool and compact system.


----------



## RockeyDA

if we are doing motor bike mods then i need to post mine... as soon as i find more AA batteries, my camera has enough juce for video but not to take a pic. but i got a little Japanese 80cc 2 stroke on a abnormally shaped mountain bike so the mounts dont work, parts of the frame had to be grinded, motor is held on with wire, and many parts have been riged, glued or replaced. i got it as a un rideable project from a firend, i rebuilt the carburetor and riged up the clutch and that was the start of a love hate relation ship involving something breaking or falling off every 2 blocks.

i made a video just for this post. i have had my chain snaped in multiple places, chain was from tractor supply and it saged hard till i lost a chunk of it. riding during a bad rain storm were i could barley see my bike shook the bolts on the tensioner loose. also at one point my sprocket only had 3 bolts on it because they kept loosing there nits and bending around the rim. my current nuts and bolt in the sprocket are soaked in superglue and that has been working well.


----------



## lexer

Guys have you tried porting the cilinder ? My friend have one of those motorized bicycle and i ported his cilinder just basic things smoothing the ports and removing all the imperfections (the casting imperfections are really baaad) , not even chaging the timing and he got a improvent on mid to top end.
Also i changed the CDI with a coil/cdi with auto-****** timing from my Suzuki AX100 and he got a few more km/h at top end and much colder engine


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> if we are doing motor bike mods then i need to post mine... as soon as i find more AA batteries, my camera has enough juce for video but not to take a pic. but i got a little Japanese 80cc 2 stroke on a abnormally shaped mountain bike so the mounts dont work, parts of the frame had to be grinded, motor is held on with wire, and many parts have been riged, glued or replaced. i got it as a un rideable project from a firend, i rebuilt the carburetor and riged up the clutch and that was the start of a love hate relation ship involving something breaking or falling off every 2 blocks.
> 
> i made a video just for this post. i have had my chain snaped in multiple places, chain was from tractor supply and it saged hard till i lost a chunk of it. riding during a bad rain storm were i could barley see my bike shook the bolts on the tensioner loose. also at one point my sprocket only had 3 bolts on it because they kept loosing there nits and bending around the rim. my current nuts and bolt in the sprocket are soaked in superglue and that has been working well.


No. This one is Soviet KO engine.
Polish law during communist times and up to 2011 allowed such engines to be used on bicycles(but only up to 50cc 45km/h).
Such bicycle engines were very popular during soviet times due to high prices of mopeds/motorcycles.
There were also some easy to mount friction drive engines("Gnom" beeing an example, 45cc and 0.4HP or 0.6 HP depending on version,fuel consumption ~1.4L/100KM).

They made it first but today there are dozens of companies which make clones.
Especially chinese. Such chinese clone costs bit less than 100USD (whole kit with 80cc engine).

As for my e-bike after I blew 20A fuse (720+W on 250W motor







, 100% power while driving on steep driveway) I decided to "upgrade" my PWM controller a bit.

Copper wires soldered to make tracks stronger (transistors can handle way beyond 100A).
And of course a cooper wire to bypass the blown fuse(I don't have any replacement).
Less important tracks only received some more solder (by default even some cooper on tracks was exposed, in general rather poor soldering).
Still works fine.

With highest possible gear ratio I can pull out 23-24km/h (full batteries and cool motor).
After longer rides the motor gets hot as hell. I will drop back to lower gear ratio then and save the highest ratio for wintertime.
With pedaling I can reach 30km/h (28T on crank and I think 14T or somthing similar on rear, original crank had 44T gear).

I'm about to begin my studies(Automatics and Robotics) at Gdańsk Polytechnic, for first 3 months I will have to rent a room in a place with no public transport nearby so e-bike will come in handy.

I may end up replacing the motor with 350W variant later (the only difference is rotor, case,RPM reductor and brushes are the same).
Of course I will leave the 250W sticker in order to be safe from police (it is illegall to ride with motor which nominal power is higher than 250W).


----------



## Pawelr98




----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> if we are doing motor bike mods then i need to post mine... as soon as i find more AA batteries, my camera has enough juce for video but not to take a pic. but i got a little Japanese 80cc 2 stroke on a abnormally shaped mountain bike so the mounts dont work, parts of the frame had to be grinded, motor is held on with wire, and many parts have been riged, glued or replaced. i got it as a un rideable project from a firend, i rebuilt the carburetor and riged up the clutch and that was the start of a love hate relation ship involving something breaking or falling off every 2 blocks.
> 
> i made a video just for this post. i have had my chain snaped in multiple places, chain was from tractor supply and it saged hard till i lost a chunk of it. riding during a bad rain storm were i could barley see my bike shook the bolts on the tensioner loose. also at one point my sprocket only had 3 bolts on it because they kept loosing there nits and bending around the rim. my current nuts and bolt in the sprocket are soaked in superglue and that has been working well.


Nice!









If there are any hardware stores near you, have a look for some flexible brackets like these:


They are perfect for mounting stuff (especially an engine) on your bike as you can easily bend them into shape with some pliers, and the ones I buy only cost $2 each!


----------



## Pawelr98

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> if we are doing motor bike mods then i need to post mine... as soon as i find more AA batteries, my camera has enough juce for video but not to take a pic. but i got a little Japanese 80cc 2 stroke on a abnormally shaped mountain bike so the mounts dont work, parts of the frame had to be grinded, motor is held on with wire, and many parts have been riged, glued or replaced. i got it as a un rideable project from a firend, i rebuilt the carburetor and riged up the clutch and that was the start of a love hate relation ship involving something breaking or falling off every 2 blocks.
> 
> i made a video just for this post. i have had my chain snaped in multiple places, chain was from tractor supply and it saged hard till i lost a chunk of it. riding during a bad rain storm were i could barley see my bike shook the bolts on the tensioner loose. also at one point my sprocket only had 3 bolts on it because they kept loosing there nits and bending around the rim. my current nuts and bolt in the sprocket are soaked in superglue and that has been working well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there are any hardware stores near you, have a look for some flexible brackets like these:
> 
> 
> They are perfect for mounting stuff (especially an engine) on your bike as you can easily bend them into shape with some pliers, and the ones I buy only cost $2 each!
Click to expand...

Too bad that the motor/engine can bend them too.

Right now I'm replacing my L-shaped brackets with new and wider ones as motor bent current ones.

I also replaced screws in the crank. One of two gears was bending.

There was a gap between the nut and the gear due to lack of space(trying to fit another nut in there would result in outer nut hitting the frame).
However after time the freewheel screwed all the way in creating just enough space to fit another nut.

After that I grinded just 1mm to ensure that no nut hits the frame(some were touching it slightly).

Whole operation has fixed several problems.
-Bigger separation between gears means less problems with chain collision
-Crank gear is more in line with the motor gear
-no more gear bending


----------



## lexer

Keeping the bike topic ...







My bike have really bad lights since is 6V and the magneto doesn't have to much power. So i made a custom bracket with four 5w high power led









Stock high beam

High beam + leds


----------



## Powerg4

Yeah, better than mounting your engine with wire though!









I find if you bend them and then put a couple of them bolted one on top of the other they are pretty strong!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If there are any hardware stores near you, have a look for some flexible brackets like these:
> 
> 
> They are perfect for mounting stuff (especially an engine) on your bike as you can easily bend them into shape with some pliers, and the ones I buy only cost $2 each!


well, times have changed, i was taking the bike off road and jumping it off the hills by the church getting a good 2-3 feet of air with my jumps, one of the times i landed my bike started shaking and the ass end was all over the place... i thought i poped my tire and drove home. well turned out i broke 1 quarder of all my spokes, some were even wraped around my sprocket with gear going over them, half were really loose, and only about 5 or 6 spokes were still stiff. so i moved the motor to another bike, got really pissed at my coborator for messing up at same time as my cluched and stompd it till i boke my mounts and bent other bike frame and craked a cover in the eng block, so its going to be a while before i make a video on my progress. and i just lost half my hours at work so i no longer make enough money to buy anything other than rent so im probably going back to buss/bmx agin till i get a union job. but my mounts were rock solid on the bike fram before i stomped it.

i was working on it all weekend and every time i would engage the cluch on this bike i would loose my balance, slip and punch the eng block or gass tank, carb kept leaking gas or not getting it in the motor (to make it fit i had to make it half the size and mount it at 90 deg) and even though i had at least 3 friends around me i could not get a single one of them to help me start the bike once. my dad lost my 250w light bulb so i could not work outside in the dark any more, and the cluch was randomly slipping and engaging when i was trying to get back home when it would not start yet when i would want it to engage i could not even kick the bar coming out of it because of the force it only seemd to take when i needed to aculy use it.

i am selling 2 15's for 300$ to one of my co workers but he is saving up to by them, when he dose that will be probably when i post about this agin, basically im getting a Y pipe that lets me have 2 carb's and mount them off the side, i already orders 1 of my replacement carbs before i knew i ran most of my hours up. i hate the handle throttle thing as it hurts my hand and im used to the 4 wheeler switch thing, so im gonna take the rear brake cable that runs to 2 already and put that on the carbs.(i even lost the mounts for the rear breaks when i took the rear wheel off)
price tog get bike back in action
carb1 15$ done
carb 2 15$
jets 7$
more jets 7$
ypipe 15$
so 44 more $ and ile be back on the road... i threw my old carb when i was mad and still cant find it so thats not gonna happen.

some pics i just took, last time i test ran bike was on Saturday at 8pm
Sunday i had work, came home early and assessed the damage, like test if motor cranked, tear down and inspect for damaged, head gasket is blown and i used RTV gasket maker to seal head and i pounded out that side panel and put RTV over that to. the compartment that had the magneto was filed over half way with oil.





and i really wish i was able to get full time without job hoping at penstate... i hate applying for jobs, especially when i never get them, witch was every job, i knew a guy and got my current job before i had an interview. meanwhile i guss now im only 20 hr a week im back to hunting around for odd jobs.

on a side note if im full time anywere no more pathetic 10$ an hr pay, witch means i could probboly dump money into bike at every point, and plan on using a dirtbike transmission so i can shift gears if i get 50$ to drop and its still running.
i also plan on using thermal adhesive and gluing heat sinks on any smooth surface
and down the road i plan on getting a nos kit and buying a pull start kit or making one out of scrap weedeater parts.
i also found out you can get a coil to give you 12v off mageto witch i will probably need a alt from car to do this but i have a 300w light bar laying around then behind that i have a 1300 lumen flashlight, then behind that i have a deer spot light from the 70's

and on the off chance i find a wagon or small trailer or sorts im going to find a way to realy have it connect to my bike, defiantly rig up a car junk yard alt, take a car battery from behind washer, and lug arround my old JL 10" with a few 6x9's and a few amps, i was born to bass and im going to do it weather i can afford a car or not. wagon is only important part i dont just have laying around.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Guys have you tried porting the cilinder ? My friend have one of those motorized bicycle and i ported his cilinder just basic things smoothing the ports and removing all the imperfections (the casting imperfections are really baaad) , not even chaging the timing and he got a improvent on mid to top end.
> Also i changed the CDI with a coil/cdi with auto-****** timing from my Suzuki AX100 and he got a few more km/h at top end and much colder engine


dont know what it means to port cylinder, sound like drilling a hole in the piston, 2 stoke has no valves so no timeing to worry about, have no idea what cdi is unless you mean panisonic cdi.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Yeah, better than mounting your engine with wire though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find if you bend them and then put a couple of them bolted one on top of the other they are pretty strong!


thing is i wont buy something unless i absolutely need it or its just really not worth my time, im cheep like that.
found several spools of wire dumpster diving years ago.

also tractor supply is my hardware store.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> dont know what it means to port cylinder, sound like drilling a hole in the piston, 2 stoke has no valves so no timeing to worry about, have no idea what cdi is unless you mean panisonic cdi.


ahhahaha have a read my friend http://www.amrca.com/tech/tuners.pdf.
CDI is the ignition box


----------



## Master__Shake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> dont know what it means to port cylinder, sound like drilling a hole in the piston, 2 stoke has no valves so no timeing to worry about, have no idea what cdi is unless you mean panisonic cdi.


no valves?

for srs?

they are called reed valves the are basically check valves and they open and close on exhaust and intake.


----------



## lexer

Those little engines have a lot to improve, a exhaust with expansion chamber can improve A LOT the power delivery, you are running that thing with open header ? That kill the performance of 2 two stroke engines, they need the back pressure if not the fresh mix is lost.
From what i tested on my friend bike,
>the stock carburetor have a terrible atomization so i installed a old 14mm Dellorto from a moped, much better throttle response
>A racing spark plug increase a little bit the power (NGK BR8EIX)
>The stock CDI doesn't have a ignition curve is just fixed, a CDI with ingition ****** curve can allow you to use a more advance initial timing (better aceleration) and the same top speed. Also some aftermarket CDI have ****** and advance on the curve so you can have more acceleration and top speed.
>The stock exhaust doesn't have a proper expansion chamber



Sorry for the offtopic ... But i love two stroke engines


----------



## Pawelr98

Spent 4 hours replacing motor brackets.




Also I secured sharp edges of my front trunk(I cut myself with this so I decided to do something about it).


Next to do is:
-Rear light + turn signals
-simple LM317T power supply to power those rear lights (LM317T is a voltage regulator, all you need is the chip itself and 2 resistors).
-Waterproofing the battery case


----------



## lexer

A LM317T isn't a good idea for a battery powered circuit, that voltage regulator is linear so isn't really efficient. Build a simple PWM voltage regulator with a 555 and Mosfet (IRFZ44 )


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Spent 4 hours replacing motor brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I secured sharp edges of my front trunk(I cut myself with this so I decided to do something about it).
> 
> 
> Next to do is:
> -Rear light + turn signals
> -simple LM317T power supply to power those rear lights (LM317T is a voltage regulator, all you need is the chip itself and 2 resistors).
> -Waterproofing the battery case


Very nice! Might want to grind those bolts back to the nut though, you don't want them to catch on anything!


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thing is i wont buy something unless i absolutely need it or its just really not worth my time, im cheep like that.
> found several spools of wire dumpster diving years ago.
> 
> also tractor supply is my hardware store.


Oh yeah it's great to use stuff you already have!
Just suggesting these are a very cheap and pretty solid way to mount your engine.

Another thing well worth doing is making some sort of cover over the exhaust, I have a friend who put a massive burn up his leg when he fell off one of these motorised bikes and landed his leg on the exhaust which basically gave a VERY nasty burn, needed surgery to clean it up!


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> A LM317T isn't a good idea for a battery powered circuit, that voltage regulator is linear so isn't really efficient. Build a simple PWM voltage regulator with a 555 and Mosfet (IRFZ44 )


I salvaged this LM317T from a fried UPS unit so it was free.

Efficiency isn't important in this circuit. It only has to deliver 3V for LED rear light/turn signals.
Not to mention that I need it only for dark time as law requires to have a rear light at dark time.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> I salvaged this LM317T from a fried UPS unit so it was free.
> 
> Efficiency isn't important in this circuit. It only has to deliver 3V for LED rear light/turn signals.
> Not to mention that I need it only for dark time as law requires to have a rear light at dark time.


Ahahahah ok ... here is the circuit if you wanna test it someday, you can use almost any mosfet
http://www.dprg.org/tutorials/2005-11a/2005-10a-004.gif


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> ahhahaha have a read my friend http://www.amrca.com/tech/tuners.pdf.
> CDI is the ignition box


thats alot, i cant stand reading, maby at some point i will break it up in chunks and have google translate butcher it to me. if i type more than 3 sentences i dont even read over it, i make google trans to it for me.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Powerg4*
> 
> Oh yeah it's great to use stuff you already have!
> Just suggesting these are a very cheap and pretty solid way to mount your engine.
> 
> Another thing well worth doing is making some sort of cover over the exhaust, I have a friend who put a massive burn up his leg when he fell off one of these motorised bikes and landed his leg on the exhaust which basically gave a VERY nasty burn, needed surgery to clean it up!


my exhaust is small and out of reach from my leg, i have only been burnt off the block.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> no valves?
> 
> for srs?
> 
> they are called reed valves the are basically check valves and they open and close on exhaust and intake.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Those little engines have a lot to improve, a exhaust with expansion chamber can improve A LOT the power delivery, you are running that thing with open header ? That kill the performance of 2 two stroke engines, they need the back pressure if not the fresh mix is lost.
> From what i tested on my friend bike,
> >the stock carburetor have a terrible atomization so i installed a old 14mm Dellorto from a moped, much better throttle response
> >A racing spark plug increase a little bit the power (NGK BR8EIX)
> >The stock CDI doesn't have a ignition curve is just fixed, a CDI with ingition ****** curve can allow you to use a more advance initial timing (better aceleration) and the same top speed. Also some aftermarket CDI have ****** and advance on the curve so you can have more acceleration and top speed.
> >The stock exhaust doesn't have a proper expansion chamber
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the offtopic ... But i love two stroke engines


question, im to afraid to try but i heard no exhaust will damage your motor... but i really want none, i love how loud is now and i want it louder, right now my back fires travel half a mile. and i know with a car open manifold sounds alot better than open headers. i did rig a cherry bomb exaust up to my bike once and i liked how large my bike sounded but i lost my backfire.


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> question, im to afraid to try but i heard no exhaust will damage your motor... but i really want none, i love how loud is now and i want it louder, right now my back fires travel half a mile. and i know with a car open manifold sounds alot better than open headers. i did rig a cherry bomb exaust up to my bike once and i liked how large my bike sounded but i lost my backfire.


I never run a 2 stroke bike without exhaust, probably will heat more due you are parcially losing the flesh mix from the cycle and the power output will be reduced like 40-45%. The exhaust on a 2 stroke is the heart of the engine.








Something like this will be perfect


Also if you can find in a junkyard a 2 stroke exhaust from a 50cc moped / scooter will also work, not perfect but better than nothing


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> I never run a 2 stroke bike without exhaust, probably will heat more due you are parcially losing the flesh mix from the cycle and the power output will be reduced like 40-45%. The exhaust on a 2 stroke is the heart of the engine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something like this will be perfect
> 
> 
> Also if you can find in a junkyard a 2 stroke exhaust from a 50cc moped / scooter will also work, not perfect but better than nothing


well at some point i could try putting the charrybomb back on. i also have 7 weed eaters behind my shed but those exhaust dont sound good.


----------



## Powerg4

Needed to mount this terminal block on my ghetto watercooling build, but didn't have any zipties handy!
Rubber band works well with a bit of vinyl hose wrapped in duct tape to keep the rubber band under tension!


----------



## 222Panther222

The two stock fan died a while back so i finally decided to do something about it.

Changed thermal paste, removed the shroud with the fans and put this 120mm antec one instead.

Unfortunately i didn't have any Zip-ties.

So before after, Idle 50c//35c, FalloutNV at 40% GPU 91c//46c and at 100% --//65c.


----------



## Jimbags

Love it. Still life in that 560ti :-D


----------



## 222Panther222

Yep, still running like a champ. Probably gonna upgrade to a 1060 for fallout 4 tho


----------



## xenkw0n

I love the fact that you're still using X58. Such a fun and enduring platform. Just upgraded mine with a 6 core Xeon.


----------



## 222Panther222

Thanks i also agree, i think the X58 still got a few years left for gaming, especially with console having such under-powered cpu.

It was one of the best future proofing purchase i ever made, i had a very crappy laptop and skipped 775 gen until 1366 dropped. It still hold up today.









Also a nice ASUS DUALGTX1060-O6G is coming next week.


----------



## KuKIE

I upgraded from that exact board not too long ago, I had my i7 920 in it running at 4.4. I sold it to the in-laws because i was tired of fixing their SLOW computer.

Every once in a while I borrow it from them and throw something like a 970 in it as a spare PC for a lan party and it does the job just fine.

Edit:

Figured i would share some ghetto rigging in the same post even though this was months ago.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Starting to ghetto my old stacker 810

Till I cut n shut it at the bottom of my storm Stryker


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuKIE*
> 
> I upgraded from that exact board not too long ago, I had my i7 920 in it running at 4.4. I sold it to the in-laws because i was tired of fixing their SLOW computer.
> 
> Every once in a while I borrow it from them and throw something like a 970 in it as a spare PC for a lan party and it does the job just fine.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Figured i would share some ghetto rigging in the same post even though this was months ago.


Hey dude, can you run me through that? Is that an electric chiller? Looks just like an esky...
I want to set up a chiller, gathering info


----------



## swingarm

This is not my computer but a picture that I found at a website that I frequent:


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swingarm*
> 
> This is not my computer but a picture that I found at a website that I frequent:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! Gorgeous mod 9/10!


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swingarm*
> 
> This is not my computer but a picture that I found at a website that I frequent:


im pretty sure id rather drink that diet coke after its sat there all this time than use that oc for a week lol


----------



## KuKIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> Hey dude, can you run me through that? Is that an electric chiller? Looks just like an esky...
> I want to set up a chiller, gathering info


Its just a normal cooler full of water, (one you would put ice in for your drinks) my radiator was still in the mail and i wanted to test the parts to make sure they were working properly, I ran it that way for several hours doing load tests and then i drained it.

Later that month i found out that Canada post had lost my radiator in the mail so until the replacement arrived i ended up doing this, lol.



I added my second PC into the loop of my main PC in series. Meaning i could only run the second PC if the first one was on.

When doing a stress test on one PC the other would go from about 20c idle to 50c idle, and stress testing both at once was about 80c


----------



## RockeyDA

So i got a dual carb manafold for my bike, but my carbs i ordered a month ago still aint shipped yet, and my old carb still dont work.


i also degreaced my block and poorly painted it then tried to get my old carb to run in the same day, dripping gag washed some my paint off.


Also i dont know how, but downgrading my ram to 24gb and bringing back my OC i seem to accidentally overclocked my ram. i went from 1300mhz to 1600mhz and im not shure what i did.
my geek bench score went from 29,000 to 31,000


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuKIE*
> 
> Its just a normal cooler full of water, (one you would put ice in for your drinks) my radiator was still in the mail and i wanted to test the parts to make sure they were working properly, I ran it that way for several hours doing load tests and then i drained it.
> 
> Later that month i found out that Canada post had lost my radiator in the mail so until the replacement arrived i ended up doing this, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> I added my second PC into the loop of my main PC in series. Meaning i could only run the second PC if the first one was on.
> 
> When doing a stress test on one PC the other would go from about 20c idle to 50c idle, and stress testing both at once was about 80c


so it was your reservior with no rad? ??


----------



## KuKIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> so it was your reservior with no rad? ??


Correct, with the amount of water in the cooler i could run the pc under normal load for 4 hours during an evening without throttling (water was about 50c by the end of the night) and it would be back to room temp by the time i got home from work the next day. Kind of like using a geothermal field to cool a house in the summer.

I joked with my friends that i could just add ice and beer and it was good to go for a whole lan party.


----------



## MattBaneLM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuKIE*
> 
> Correct, with the amount of water in the cooler i could run the pc under normal load for 4 hours during an evening without throttling (water was about 50c by the end of the night) and it would be back to room temp by the time i got home from work the next day. Kind of like using a geothermal field to cool a house in the summer.
> 
> I joked with my friends that i could just add ice and beer and it was good to go for a whole lan party.


I luv it!!! a heap of ice and POW!!!
rep + for styling!!


----------



## Powerg4

Pump controller


----------



## RockeyDA

so i started working on a case for my z800, i posted pics of ideahs i had before, i have changed them, biggest one is using 1 big fan to cool ram and cpu.
just need to sand, stain , and plexy glass... and mount some things.. and wood filler my ps3 fan hole a bit.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so i started working on a case for my z800, i posted pics of ideahs i had before, i have changed them, biggest one is using 1 big fan to cool ram and cpu.
> just need to sand, stain , and plexy glass... and mount some things.. and wood filler my ps3 fan hole a bit.


i gotta admit this is heads and tails above the speaker box you made as far as square and plumb goes


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> ...


Like HP Z800?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Like HP Z800?


yes, motherboard is in one of the pics.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> i gotta admit this is heads and tails above the speaker box you made as far as square and plumb goes


yeah, i went to a friends house and used tools from this century.


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yes, motherboard is in one of the pics.


Dang, that's crazy. I have a Z400 sitting under my desk at home. I've also used a Z600. Good machines.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Dang, that's crazy. I have a Z400 sitting under my desk at home. I've also used a Z600. Good machines.


post pcis of your z400 and z600? cuz i would like to see them.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> yes, motherboard is in one of the pics.
> 
> 
> 
> Dang, that's crazy. I have a Z400 sitting under my desk at home. I've also used a Z600. Good machines.
Click to expand...

This totally off topic but I love your avatar. It's simple yet so mesmerizing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KuKIE*
> 
> I upgraded from that exact board not too long ago, I had my i7 920 in it running at 4.4. I sold it to the in-laws because i was tired of fixing their SLOW computer.
> 
> Every once in a while I borrow it from them and throw something like a 970 in it as a spare PC for a lan party and it does the job just fine.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Figured i would share some ghetto rigging in the same post even though this was months ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey dude, can you run me through that? Is that an electric chiller? Looks just like an esky...
> I want to set up a chiller, gathering info
Click to expand...

What kind of info do you need?


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> post pcis of your z400 and z600? cuz i would like to see them.


The Z600, I don't have access to anymore. Haven't been at that job for well over 2 years. I believe it shares the same case as the Z800, if I'm not mistaken.










There's my Z400. It has the W3520, with 12GB RAM (ECC, unbuffered RAM is puzzlingly more expensive than ECC buffered







). It's serving as an ESXi host with one VM on it so far. That VM is my file/plex/torrent server. The Ubuntu instance has access to 8TB of HDDs in mirrored vdevs for 4TB of usable space.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Dang, that's crazy. I have a Z400 sitting under my desk at home. I've also used a Z600. Good machines.


post pics of your z400 and z
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> The Z600, I don't have access to anymore. Haven't been at that job for well over 2 years. I believe it shares the same case as the Z800, if I'm not mistaken.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's my Z400. It has the W3520, with 12GB RAM (ECC, unbuffered RAM is puzzlingly more expensive than ECC buffered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). It's serving as an ESXi host with one VM on it so far. That VM is my file/plex/torrent server. The Ubuntu instance has access to 8TB of HDDs in mirrored vdevs for 4TB of usable space.
Click to expand...

woe, never saw the case for one of thoghes. i just bought the motherboard because it was 80$ new. and i bought 12 4gb sticks of ddr3 ecc registered 1333 for $4.50 a stick, originally got it for my sr-2 because my test stick worked, but was mildly unstable and core clock was stuck at 1.5ghz.
as far as hdd space goes on my z800, i have 1 40gb sata drive i use on it some times and i pull my steam sas drive out of my sr-2 when i go somewhere else... so i need to buy some more sas drives at some point.
oh and my cpu is left over l5506's from my sr-2.
gpu is kinda random but if im planing some serious gaming like black ops 3 i pull my gtx 680 out of my sr-2

also i think your camera's lens is dirty.


----------



## legoman786

Yeah, I took it with my phone. I apologize for the dusty quality. I don't wanna take it out of the space it's in, because it's got 8x spinning platters in it. I'd have to shut it down first, and collectively, all my kids, plus my wife, will beg for me to turn it back on.

The Z4/6/800 cases are all rack-mountable, with special hardware. The Z6/800 cases have carrying handles on them. Otherwise, they're mostly tool free, and have lots of room inside.

I can't find a 24GB set (which is the max the Gen2 Z400's will take), for less than US$150-200. I can find the same set in buffered for US$70. No idea what the hell is up with that. A very rare handful of people have gotten the Z400 to boot with ECC/buffered RAM, however, none of them said what make/model of RAM. So, I bought a set off Amazon, just trying my luck, and nothing. Promptly sent them back for a refund.

I really do wish it could readily accept ECC buffered, however, I'm making do.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> Yeah, I took it with my phone. I apologize for the dusty quality. I don't wanna take it out of the space it's in, because it's got 8x spinning platters in it. I'd have to shut it down first, and collectively, all my kids, plus my wife, will beg for me to turn it back on.
> 
> The Z4/6/800 cases are all rack-mountable, with special hardware. The Z6/800 cases have carrying handles on them. Otherwise, they're mostly tool free, and have lots of room inside.
> 
> I can't find a 24GB set (which is the max the Gen2 Z400's will take), for less than US$150-200. I can find the same set in buffered for US$70. No idea what the hell is up with that. A very rare handful of people have gotten the Z400 to boot with ECC/buffered RAM, however, none of them said what make/model of RAM. So, I bought a set off Amazon, just trying my luck, and nothing. Promptly sent them back for a refund.
> 
> I really do wish it could readily accept ECC buffered, however, I'm making do.


huh, my z800 is 48gb max non ecc and ecc is 192gb max. 192gb ecc is like 700-1000$ so hell no.


----------



## RockeyDA

ok, so im trying to get my system runable so i can play black ops 3 with my cuz over Halloween weekend (starting tomrrow)
im off to a good start, and im gonna drop the height of the plexy glass near the fan by another 1/4"


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I like the use of duct tape on the air duct.


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> huh, my z800 is 48gb max non ecc and ecc is 192gb max. 192gb ecc is like 700-1000$ so hell no.


Like I said, it's a Gen2. The Gen1 capped at 12GB. I don't know if there ever was a Gen3. But, the Z600/Z800 models are proper workstations.


----------



## SILENTDEATH316

Now this I like as it shows just what we are really capable of to fire a rig up!!!

Amen...Heck yea...and HOOORAAHHH


----------



## MattBaneLM

Danm Straight. Good stuff bro!


----------



## RockeyDA

so side project, took me about an hour and a half, every day when i come home from work my dog tears my trash up and i have had it, im actually starting to hate my dog. i came home from that weekend of gaming and had my last straw but instead of chasing my dog around the house with a bucket of water i made an electric fence for my trash can and im only going to put food stuff in this one, then once my dog fails to take some trash for a few weeks im making dummie fences around my other cans.


----------



## Simmons572

That is... Absurd....

I love it


----------



## Pawelr98

Watercooling loop I constructed for my brother.

8/10 Tubing
Thermaltake p500 Pump (500L/H 1.8M)
MNP Poseidon Waterblock (Polish made, somehow fits LGA1155(it's an 775 era block))
MagiCool Copper Radiator III (360mm, 30mm thick)
500ml bottle as reservoir

Reservoir->pump->cpu->rad->reservoir

Results are
[email protected] 1.4V at full load(prime95 small FFT) hottest core reaches 80°C
That's with Prolimatech pk-3 as TIM.

I had to use angle grindger to shave off some plastic from pump connector.
Otherwise the o-ring wouldn't be pressed down enough resulting in a leak.

Silicon (white stuff) is just a "better safe than sorry".

Brackets are from Leroy Merlin (huge shop with building materials, tools and DIY stuff).


----------



## lexer

My mom loves how watercooling looks so i build one on his computer with some spare parts


----------



## RockeyDA

i finaly have all my parts rounded up. im to tierd to work with them today but when i get off work tomrrow im gonnna see if my carbs work, then reject them, see if they work agin, then a test fan hot glued over air intake and see if i can get noticeable performance boost, if yest then i will find a way to hid them inside my air filter.
im really exited, but i only had 3 hours of sleep last night and worked a 10hr day, and im going to sleep after this post because i need to catch up and i get up at 4:45 in the morning... i miss how school had summer vacation.


----------



## krns

I don´t know if this is ghetto enough for this thread... The screws/rubber-thingies i had didn´t fit in that dustfilter. So i just duct taped it on the bottom of the case:



it works


----------



## lexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i finaly have all my parts rounded up. im to tierd to work with them today but when i get off work tomrrow im gonnna see if my carbs work, then reject them, see if they work agin, t*hen a test fan hot glued over air intake* and see if i can get noticeable performance boost, if yest then i will find a way to hid them inside my air filter.
> im really exited, but i only had 3 hours of sleep last night and worked a 10hr day, and im going to sleep after this post because i need to catch up and i get up at 4:45 in the morning... i miss how school had summer vacation.


I'm not quite sure what you want to do ... like a "turbo" ?
Sorry for being a bit pessimist but i no gonna work, those little engine (for bicicles) don't need too much "air", a filter with too much airflow or using the carb without airfilter can cause a lean mixture, that kill power and can even damage your engine
That carb from the photo looks like a copy of a Dellorto SHA 14/12 pretty good carb for a moped or little 2t engines if you set it right. Fit the carb and the filter in a way that DOESN'T have a direct airflow, because when you reach some speed the incoming air cause the mixture going lean, that is the reason because most moped have the carb pointing back or the airfilter box is designed in way that the incoming air doesn't cause a turbulence inside it.
If you want to go faster, get bored cylinder or a proper exhaust


----------



## Powerg4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i finaly have all my parts rounded up. im to tierd to work with them today but when i get off work tomrrow im gonnna see if my carbs work, then reject them, see if they work agin, then a test fan hot glued over air intake and see if i can get noticeable performance boost, if yest then i will find a way to hid them inside my air filter.
> im really exited, but i only had 3 hours of sleep last night and worked a 10hr day, and im going to sleep after this post because i need to catch up and i get up at 4:45 in the morning... i miss how school had summer vacation.


I feel your pain, I miss my school holidays!
I'm doing an apprenticeship now and 12 hour work days are killing me hahah


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i finaly have all my parts rounded up. im to tierd to work with them today but when i get off work tomrrow im gonnna see if my carbs work, then reject them, see if they work agin, then a test fan hot glued over air intake and see if i can get noticeable performance boost, if yest then i will find a way to hid them inside my air filter.
> im really exited, but i only had 3 hours of sleep last night and worked a 10hr day, and im going to sleep after this post because i need to catch up and i get up at 4:45 in the morning... i miss how school had summer vacation.


Fan at intake won't give you any boost.

There were tests on "electric turbo" for cars. It was basically a high rpm electric fan connected to intake.
There was no boost. Some tests even showed a decrease in power.


----------



## cdoublejj




----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i finaly have all my parts rounded up. im to tierd to work with them today but when i get off work tomrrow im gonnna see if my carbs work, then reject them, see if they work agin, then a test fan hot glued over air intake and see if i can get noticeable performance boost, if yest then i will find a way to hid them inside my air filter.
> im really exited, but i only had 3 hours of sleep last night and worked a 10hr day, and im going to sleep after this post because i need to catch up and i get up at 4:45 in the morning... i miss how school had summer vacation.


It won't make you any boost or power if anything it may rob power at the top end. it's been done before.


----------



## frostbite

My hole saw frigged up years ago so took my aerocool case apart and used a hammer and chisel to cut the fan hole


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> My hole saw frigged up years ago so took my aerocool case apart and used a hammer and chisel to cut the fan hole


probably cleaner than the one i cut with a dremel lol


----------



## philhalo66

lol my 580 was running a little too hot so i zip tied 2 NIDEC DELL fans onto it. One of them is a 250 CFM and the other is 120 CFM lol i had them wired up to 12V at first but after a few second of the shop vac (i think the fans are louder) i wired it up to 5V and its tolerable. and dropped my temps a solid 30C only need to last a month or 2 till i get a 1070


----------



## doyll

More than half of my GPUs have shrouds removed and different fans on them.








Once in a great while these modes won't impove cooling and lower noise levels, but that's rare exception.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> I'm not quite sure what you want to do ... like a "turbo" ?
> Sorry for being a bit pessimist but i no gonna work, those little engine (for bicicles) don't need too much "air", a filter with too much airflow or using the carb without airfilter can cause a lean mixture, that kill power and can even damage your engine
> That carb from the photo looks like a copy of a Dellorto SHA 14/12 pretty good carb for a moped or little 2t engines if you set it right. Fit the carb and the filter in a way that DOESN'T have a direct airflow, because when you reach some speed the incoming air cause the mixture going lean, that is the reason because most moped have the carb pointing back or the airfilter box is designed in way that the incoming air doesn't cause a turbulence inside it.
> If you want to go faster, get bored cylinder or a proper exhaust


well i gave it a try and did not notice any change with fans on or off, i dont think they make enough pressure to make a difference. so also im dual carb, so that should be dubble the gas anyways. and on my first test run i tried to use a gasket sealer to connect my fuel line to the carbs, because those new carbs apparently arrent 1/4" fuel line like everything else, there just a little bit smaller. well the gas dissolved the gasket maker and i think it clogged my jets after a quarter mile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> Fan at intake won't give you any boost.
> 
> There were tests on "electric turbo" for cars. It was basically a high rpm electric fan connected to intake.
> There was no boost. Some tests even showed a decrease in power.


well why cant i try and see for my self huh? anyways i spent a few hours on the bike and i never got it to run, then i got destracted by a plasma tv i found dumpster diving and i have been recapping the powersupply bord, on the side i have been binge watching "The Nutshack" just found it and cant believe i never herd of it. but i think one of my problems with my bike is my new intake made me have to mount my motor at an angle and i thing the flotie thing in the carbs dose not like being at a 40deg angle.


----------



## MattBaneLM

is this a car thread?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> is this a car thread?


its an everything you can rig up thread...


----------



## legoman786

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattBaneLM*
> 
> is this a car thread?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> its an everything you can rig up thread...


I'm gonna go with mfknjadagr8.

I'm showing 69 pages at 100 posts per page (this is an option in your own settings), and over the years, there are plenty of non-computer shenanigans.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legoman786*
> 
> I'm gonna go with mfknjadagr8.
> 
> I'm showing 69 pages at 100 posts per page (this is an option in your own settings), *and over the years, there are plenty of non-computer shenanigans.*


This. Ghetto Rigging is Ghetto Rigging. Nuff said.


----------



## SwishaMane

I'm sure the intention of the thread was rigging computer / electronic related things, but it has evolved... +Level


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> I'm sure the intention of the thread was rigging computer / electronic related things, but it has evolved... +Level


it meditated till it levitated and got elevated and let the rigging be celebrated.


----------



## beret21

MY 9500 GT cooled


----------



## beret21

MY homemade cpu water block and an 80 mm fan with long blades made outta plasic bottle



That tiny fan on NB is from 9500 GT


----------



## KuKIE

I was throwing some old parts into one of the first cases i modded to build a retro pc and i found my old ATI AIW 9800 pro with a dead fan.


So i decided to make a waterblock for it (using a heatsync from a fanless trident card)


Swapped out the springs for stiffer ones to hold the block on tighter


Ready to go into the pc.


----------



## ericbau

Cool waterblock!


----------



## Tisser12

Since my case manufacturers decided that one 120mm intake fan was enough for the 3 120 exhaust fans, well my system didn't think so. I haven't used my DVD drive in a while so I removed it, and in it's place I modded in a Corsair AF 140, and added a second fan to my cpu cooler. Dropped my CPU temps by 20C









I just used zip ties on all 4 corners of the fan, and the back half of the bottom of the fan (bear with me here) is resting on an SSD tray that just so happened to be located right there. Ties are pulled tight enough in opposing directions that there's no vibrations or noise from it. And it looks like it belonged there in the first place. Pushes nice fresh air straight into my CPU cooler which, as stated above, DEFINITLEY helped my temps. I'm now running a 4.8Ghz OC on my a10 6800k as my 24/7 OC because of the temp drops I've only seen it get to 52C max









And theeeeeeeenn

Since I had a gaping hole in the front of my case then (from removing the door that covered the drive bays) I decided to do something about that as well. Few minutes of dremel work and it works. No air obstruction due to the 140 not running at super high rpms and the fact that I cut a bunch of holes lol. Next step is to probably clean up the center hole a bit, probably paint it to make it look nicer, and then add a screen to the backside of the door to filter the cat hair and dust a little bit.

Side note. It makes me mad as F%@ that where I mounted the 140 to wasn't centered to the front of the case.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> Since my case manufacturers decided that one 120mm intake fan was enough for the 3 120 exhaust fans, well my system didn't think so. I haven't used my DVD drive in a while so I removed it, and in it's place I modded in a Corsair AF 140, and added a second fan to my cpu cooler. Dropped my CPU temps by 20C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used zip ties on all 4 corners of the fan, and the back half of the bottom of the fan (bear with me here) is resting on an SSD tray that just so happened to be located right there. Ties are pulled tight enough in opposing directions that there's no vibrations or noise from it. And it looks like it belonged there in the first place. Pushes nice fresh air straight into my CPU cooler which, as stated above, DEFINITLEY helped my temps. I'm now running a 4.8Ghz OC on my a10 6800k as my 24/7 OC because of the temp drops I've only seen it get to 52C max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And theeeeeeeenn
> 
> Since I had a gaping hole in the front of my case then (from removing the door that covered the drive bays) I decided to do something about that as well. Few minutes of dremel work and it works. No air obstruction due to the 140 not running at super high rpms and the fact that I cut a bunch of holes lol. Next step is to probably clean up the center hole a bit, probably paint it to make it look nicer, and then add a screen to the backside of the door to filter the cat hair and dust a little bit.
> 
> Side note. It makes me mad as F%@ that where I mounted the 140 to wasn't centered to the front of


im pretty sure it's now coming to destroy our planet....damn decepticons lol


----------



## Tisser12

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> Since my case manufacturers decided that one 120mm intake fan was enough for the 3 120 exhaust fans, well my system didn't think so. I haven't used my DVD drive in a while so I removed it, and in it's place I modded in a Corsair AF 140, and added a second fan to my cpu cooler. Dropped my CPU temps by 20C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just used zip ties on all 4 corners of the fan, and the back half of the bottom of the fan (bear with me here) is resting on an SSD tray that just so happened to be located right there. Ties are pulled tight enough in opposing directions that there's no vibrations or noise from it. And it looks like it belonged there in the first place. Pushes nice fresh air straight into my CPU cooler which, as stated above, DEFINITLEY helped my temps. I'm now running a 4.8Ghz OC on my a10 6800k as my 24/7 OC because of the temp drops I've only seen it get to 52C max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And theeeeeeeenn
> 
> Since I had a gaping hole in the front of my case then (from removing the door that covered the drive bays) I decided to do something about that as well. Few minutes of dremel work and it works. No air obstruction due to the 140 not running at super high rpms and the fact that I cut a bunch of holes lol. Next step is to probably clean up the center hole a bit, probably paint it to make it look nicer, and then add a screen to the backside of the door to filter the cat hair and dust a little bit.
> 
> Side note. It makes me mad as F%@ that where I mounted the 140 to wasn't centered to the front of
> 
> 
> 
> im pretty sure it's now coming to destroy our planet....damn decepticons lol
Click to expand...

I'm glad someone noticed


----------



## Tisser12

Found that screen I needed. Cut it small enough to be able to work with and then used the end of my hot glue gun to melt the screen to the rear of the door to tack it into place, and then put a bead of glue around the whole thing. Finished it off with an exacto to cut off any excess and cleaned up the glue strands and stray glue drips best I could and voila.


----------



## krns

That looks great!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I should of took pics of me ghetto fixing the stripped screw holes in my RC car. I drilled out the holes so I could fit plastic cylinders in and used epoxy to secure them. Once dried I then cut the ends off and redrilled the holes in the new plastic. It looked like a porcupine with all the little tubes sticking out.


----------



## RockeyDA

so i have a ghetto question, a project i will only put my time in if others think it would be awesome.

so i got these speakers here



and im considering takeing a 24" long electric RC low rider truck i have, chopping the top off, making little boxes for these speakers, have the 3 2" speakers in the back seats, and have the sub in a box in the bed.

this car has been threw hell and surprisingly the imitation air ride suspension still work on it.

old pics of it from when i was 14



and before you hate on how bad of a mod i did, i was 14, and knew nothing about building enclosures.


----------



## TiezZ BE

Upgraded someone's old OEM pc (i5 2300) with a GTX950.

Needed some extra cooling:



and 1 extra intake fan underneath (drilled some random holes instead of completely open)


----------



## beret21




----------



## Pawelr98

I constructed a working AUX input for the radio in my 2007 Honda City (IV after facelift).

Base of the cable is mini-molex connector + single pin connector.

Fits into AUX port nicely.

Success. Radio turned on in the AUX mode (the single pin connector is soldered to yellow mini-molex wire, this connects AUX-enable pin with GND which enables aux mode).

Testing before mounting the radio back.

Connector in final form.


Drilled a hole in glovebox which is right under the radio and pulled the wire through.



To drill the hole I had to unmount panel that covers the shifter.
I saw that the grease has all dried out after 9 years.

Wiped all of the old grease and added nice chunk of fresh grease.

Now the shifter is much easier to move.

Now I only need driver's license to ride it







.

In case anyone needs it.
The schematic to make your own cable (this schematic is for Honda Jazz/Fit that uses the same radio as Honda City).


----------



## Mong Grel

Ghetto Soundbar.

The JVC's even had the tweeters and mids blown out and replaced with Radio Shack speakers in the mid 80's, heh.

The subs have held up well over time.


----------



## Nukemaster

Pawelr98, Looks good. If you have a panel mount jack you can use one to avoid breaking your cable over time(since the cables would not move or bend, just the aux cable from the panel mount to your device and those are easy to replace.).

Mong Grel, You can never have too much sound.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mong Grel*
> 
> Ghetto Soundbar.
> 
> The JVC's even had the tweeters and mids blown out and replaced with Radio Shack speakers in the mid 80's, heh.
> 
> The subs have held up well over time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


this has my approval... whats a sound bar? sounds cheep.

aslo since were on audio, i finaly did a free air video of my X-18 off my 1500W amp its surprisingly disappointing, but i love watching the coil move thew the vent between the motor and the basket.

Im running on way more power than it would take to bottom out my 15" alpine in a ported enclosure, and my sundown is no were near bottoming out in free air.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Pawelr98, Looks good. If you have a panel mount jack you can use one to avoid breaking your cable over time(since the cables would not move or bend, just the aux cable from the panel mount to your device and those are easy to replace.).
> 
> Mong Grel, You can never have too much sound.


Entire thing was done with spare parts.

I do have some jack ports from PC cases front panels.
But I don't feel like taking apart this cable.

It's a junk cable. It was jack->2xcinch cable. The plastic on those cinch connectors was literally falling apart in my hands(I grabbed the connector, pressed it a little and whole thing cracked into few parts).

Because of such low quality using my FiiO E07K as pre-amp is improving sound quality.

But at the same time default audio system is rather bad so I'm fine with this.
If the cable breaks down then replacement will be much easier as didn't put back the main screws that hold the radio.
The latches are very strong. To pull out the radio you would need to pry with long screwdriver.
I only left single screw that is far easier to access.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> this has my approval... whats a sound bar? sounds cheep.
> 
> aslo since were on audio, i finaly did a free air video of my X-18 off my 1500W amp its surprisingly disappointing, but i love watching the coil move thew the vent between the motor and the basket.
> 
> Im running on way more power than it would take to bottom out my 15" alpine in a ported enclosure, and my sundown is no were near bottoming out in free air.


Soundbars are a single bar with 2 or more speakers[some may include a center channel] used as a upgrade for most TV speakers. They just sit in front or under the TV. Some also have a sub or sound enhancements to mimic surround sound.

With the speakers some TV's ship with these things sell pretty well(I am not sure why they call it a sound bar, but it is a bar that makes sound







).
That is a good bit of speaker movement you got going on in that video


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Soundbars are a single bar with 2 or more speakers[some may include a center channel] used as a upgrade for most TV speakers. They just sit in front or under the TV. Some also have a sub or sound enhancements to mimic surround sound.
> 
> With the speakers some TV's ship with these things sell pretty well(I am not sure why they call it a sound bar, but it is a bar that makes sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> That is a good bit of speaker movement you got going on in that video


huh, guess tv speakers no longer are good? because my plasma puts out mid bass(2 woofers in a enclosure with a passive radiator on bottom and tweeters in front of Tv) and gets fairly loud. that was a tv i got dead so i spent a few weeks trouble shooting it, was only 1 bad transistor.

and as far as that excursion goes, the woofer is bottomless, so when its maximum movement means the cone smacks the spider. im far from that on a underrated 1500w amp. i really wanna see this sub full tilt and im mildly upset on how little i got out of that free air.
same amp running on less power on my alpine


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> huh, guess tv speakers no longer are good? because my plasma puts out mid bass(2 woofers in a enclosure with a passive radiator on bottom and tweeters in front of Tv) and gets fairly loud. that was a tv i got dead so i spent a few weeks trouble shooting it, was only 1 bad transistor.
> 
> and as far as that excursion goes, the woofer is bottomless, so when its maximum movement means the cone smacks the spider. im far from that on a underrated 1500w amp. i really wanna see this sub full tilt and im mildly upset on how little i got out of that free air.
> same amp running on less power on my alpine


Yeah, Many TV's do not have that much power or good(I mean they are good for the size I guess) speakers. This is not to say none do, but the need for thinner and thinner does not help.


----------



## Nenkitsune

most Tv's sound like butt now. They may as well be fancy monitors with crap DPI and a tv tuner built in.


----------



## SwishaMane

My 52" Sony Bravia is accompanied by late 1970's Cerwin Vega two-ways (I think they were D1 model?? not entirely sure) that were re-foamed with OEM red surrounds. Its a reflection setup, where the speakers go behind the TV at 45 degree angles to the wall behind them. The stereo imaging is amazingly wide and sounds gorgeous. Playing the RE1 remake for PS4 months ago, the zombies sound like their in my hallway when they are on the left speaker. So awesome! lol


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Upgrading my laptop's battery. Made a 6 pin reversible connector for connecting the battery pack that will come tomorrow.


----------



## Mong Grel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Pawelr98, Looks good. If you have a panel mount jack you can use one to avoid breaking your cable over time(since the cables would not move or bend, just the aux cable from the panel mount to your device and those are easy to replace.).
> 
> Mong Grel, You can never have too much sound.


Displacement is always fun, I use the old Kenwood KL-777Z's on the amp at the bottom just for subs these days.

Bought them at the PX when I was in the service in 1980, surprised they have survived this long without out damage over time, but I always warned people away from screwing around near those at parties, they will still jump about 2 inches either direction if cranked.

It isn't bad for a pair of big speakers that have been cranked up a lot of the time for 35 years









I think of them as tuned subs a bit, they do have mids and tweeters, I run them from the main 7.2 amp sub outs into the second amp to them.

So I can even tweak the sub feed on the second amp.


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Upgrading my laptop's battery. Made a 6 pin reversible connector for connecting the battery pack that will come tomorrow.


You will be connecting extra Li-ion cells in parallel to the existing cells ?

Good thing.

This way you can make conventional full-power laptop last on battery as long as netbook with very low power components.

If only bringing such laptop onto aircrafts wasn't problematic.

Instead of lame 3-4 hours browsing net I could game on laptop for 6-8 hours with no problem.

I guess it would be accepted only if I made it look decent enough.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I'm going to put the battery pack at the back of the lid and tape up everything with black electrical tape. Hopefully it wont look too suspscious for school.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Nice idea , Should stick 4 16Ah Cells on the back of the screen on mine xD


----------



## Jayjr1105

115X stock coolers have been in short supply around the shop lately. Found this old socket 370 cooler in the warehouse, lopped off the bracket and used some zipties to "ratchet" it down.









It's cooling a first gen i3 and does surprisingly well albeit loud as ever.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Batteries came early.

Short circuited this twice, burnt my thumb too. I should be more careful with exposed leads.


----------



## frostbite

Going back to my old aerocool Case

I had cut out the hdd cage or rather drilled the rivits as to not damage the case







I then cut the front fan grill off so I could fit a delta ehe 120mm fan



Then with no hdd cage, I loaded the 2 spare 51/4 bays with 80gb maxtors in raid 0 with niffty grill


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Batteries came early.
> 
> Short circuited this twice, burnt my thumb too. I should be more careful with exposed leads.


It's good to have small vice for such jobs.

One time I was in Leroy Merlin to purchase some metal parts but happened to find small 5$ vice.
It really makes my work with electronics much easier.

It holds the PCB while I desolder components.
I scavenge plenty of electronics for parts.

Last time I had to search for some 4.7Kohm resistors. I was often building them from two separate resistors.
Seller forgot to send five 4.7Kohm resistors for my Nixie Tube Clock kit.
Instead of waiting I decided to get the parts myself.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

The batteries won't fall off as long as I don't open the lid by more than 90 degrees.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

One word: Velcro


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Thanks, I'll see if I can pick some up today.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> The batteries won't fall off as long as I don't open the lid by more than 90 degrees.


But it's not ghetto without duct tape!


----------



## Sgsi5512

New build! Spare parts, an Amazon shipping box, and a few hours of fun! Surprisingly low-ish temps so far. Cases are just too expensive & overrated.









Asus 970G
AMD fx-4100 (4229Mhz)
Corsair H55 Liquid Cooler
ADATA 4GB ram (1580Mhz)
AMD Radeon HD 7750 (2GB, ~800Mhz)
Generic 700w PSU
HP 1600x900 LED


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Went to Staples and Canadian Tire. Couldn't find Velcro even though they said they have them on their websites.

Took some Scotch Extremely Strong double sided tape and it's holding up pretty good right now. Pretty good considering I got a full discount for the trouble I had to go through to find Velcro.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigSteak*
> 
> 
> 
> New build! Spare parts, an Amazon shipping box, and a few hours of fun! Surprisingly low-ish temps so far. Cases are just too expensive & overrated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus 970G
> AMD fx-4100 (4229Mhz)
> Corsair H55 Liquid Cooler
> ADATA 4GB ram (1580Mhz)
> AMD Radeon HD 7750 (2GB, ~800Mhz)
> Generic 700w PSU
> HP 1600x900 LED


I'm doing something similar, except I was too lazy to carve out the holes, so I just put everything on top of the box and called it a day.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Yeah, Many TV's do not have that much power or good(I mean they are good for the size I guess) speakers. This is not to say none do, but the need for thinner and thinner does not help.


hay so, me seeing my sub full tilt on my amp might be doable... i did the math and this 100a psu is still massively holding me back from the 1600w my amp dynos at.
so im not shure but i think im supposed to measure this with the voltage drop my sub causes.
what it takes to keep my input voltage above 11.5v
OUTPUT VOLTAGE
WITH SUB = 30v
NO SUB = 32v
E^2/R=P

(30^2)/1ohm=900 Watts
and just incase im wrong
(32^2)/1ohm=1024 Watts

so if i look as the positive side if i get some 16v batteries and a 18v float charger to top them off i could see alot more out of my amp. considering its 16v stable and people bench amps at 14v.
im just amazed at how little power im actually working with. i actually cant imagine what hitting my rated 1500w would be like.


----------



## Nenkitsune

lol that box PC reminds me of the one I built years ago (early 2008) when I got sick of getting cut whenever I worked on my PC (it was thin sheetmetal, was no fun)


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Camera I modified to do time lapse stuff with .

Arduino switches the button to ground with a NPN transistor .


__
https://flic.kr/p/gDxgDX


__
https://flic.kr/p/gDxgDX
 by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr


----------



## Nenkitsune

My room is cold. According to my SSD temp it was 19c in my room. Decided to use my computers secondary purpose. Personal heater. It has two fans on front that exhaust air. The radiator fans push into the case, and it has intake fans on the rear. I also have a fan tied to the case blowing air in through the PCI slots to give the GPU fresh air, and it vents air out the front as well. The bottom fan gets kind of the short end of the stick. It's an intake fan that blows air onto my hard drives. SSD is now at 29c as a result.

Anyways, I sit down on a seat out of a car (for my racing setup) and I have the front of my computer facing me so it's blowing nice warm air on me now.

pullin 500w from the wall btw



Is using your computer as a personal heater considered ghetto? It's definitely less power hungry haha.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

You should join the folding team, don't let that heat go to waste!


----------



## Tripnode

had a fitting take a leak on my main rig so had to improvise with the server for now


----------



## Mong Grel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Went to Staples and Canadian Tire. Couldn't find Velcro even though they said they have them on their websites.
> 
> Took some Scotch Extremely Strong double sided tape and it's holding up pretty good right now. Pretty good considering I got a full discount for the trouble I had to go through to find Velcro.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing something similar, except I was too lazy to carve out the holes, so I just put everything on top of the box and called it a day.


If you need velcro just hit a fabric store next time, they usually have a lot of it in various sizes.

Heh, now I cranked it up a lot and went into watching old ZZ Top vids mode


----------



## DR4G00N

I needed to mount this Intel only block to my FX-8150, crappy Asetek backplate to the rescue!
The stock amd retention bracket keeps the block aligned properly.


----------



## Mong Grel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I needed to mount this Intel only block to my FX-8150, crappy Asetek backplate to the rescue!
> The stock amd retention bracket keeps the block aligned properly.












Spare parts are nice to have around, most of my CPU coolers have a bit of a hybrid mount these days.

Have a couple big box's of spare parts and various cables hanging around from over a few decades


----------



## DizzlePro

got a bunch of case fans sitting in a box, any ideas on things i can make?


----------



## frostbite

make hovercrafts with old cd's


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> My room is cold. According to my SSD temp it was 19c in my room. Decided to use my computers secondary purpose. Personal heater. It has two fans on front that exhaust air. The radiator fans push into the case, and it has intake fans on the rear. I also have a fan tied to the case blowing air in through the PCI slots to give the GPU fresh air, and it vents air out the front as well. The bottom fan gets kind of the short end of the stick. It's an intake fan that blows air onto my hard drives. SSD is now at 29c as a result.
> 
> Anyways, I sit down on a seat out of a car (for my racing setup) and I have the front of my computer facing me so it's blowing nice warm air on me now.
> 
> pullin 500w from the wall btw
> 
> 
> 
> Is using your computer as a personal heater considered ghetto? It's definitely less power hungry haha.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> You should join the folding team, don't let that heat go to waste!


I second this motion


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> My room is cold. According to my SSD temp it was 19c in my room. Decided to use my computers secondary purpose. Personal heater. It has two fans on front that exhaust air. The radiator fans push into the case, and it has intake fans on the rear. I also have a fan tied to the case blowing air in through the PCI slots to give the GPU fresh air, and it vents air out the front as well. The bottom fan gets kind of the short end of the stick. It's an intake fan that blows air onto my hard drives. SSD is now at 29c as a result.
> 
> Anyways, I sit down on a seat out of a car (for my racing setup) and I have the front of my computer facing me so it's blowing nice warm air on me now.
> 
> pullin 500w from the wall btw
> 
> 
> 
> Is using your computer as a personal heater considered ghetto? It's definitely less power hungry haha.


i do the same, my computer is in the basement and it heats the whole house, pulles 9 amps when [email protected] 9x120=1080w
but i do have a 300wgpu a 250wgpu and 2 130w cpu's being overclocked from 3.4 to 4.2ghz (once it gets blow average of 50F inside i crank out [email protected] cuz i dont want it colder than 45F inside.)


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Pico ITX retro emulation pc boxed in a card box , Has two USB ports , WiFi , Bluetooth , VGA out as I use it with a CRT monitor .

Just need to add a 24W / 12V DC - DC converter so it can be run from 12+ to 25+ input and Audio jack .


----------



## Nenkitsune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> You should join the folding team, don't let that heat go to waste!
> 
> 
> 
> I second this motion
Click to expand...

Ok, you guys convinced me. I had to downgrade my nvidia driver cause of a glitch in the newer ones but here we go haha. Works out good. i was starting to get a little cold (I think I'm a bit under the weather right now)


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> Ok, you guys convinced me. I had to downgrade my nvidia driver cause of a glitch in the newer ones but here we go haha. Works out good. i was starting to get a little cold (I think I'm a bit under the weather right now)


Excellent! While you are at it, you should go sign up for the December Foldathalon, if you haven't already done so. Welcome to the fold!

Another thing, since the different Work Units affect the GPU differently, [email protected] is a great way to do long-term overclock stability testing. OC'ing the card will boost your numbers quite a bit.


----------



## Nenkitsune

My card is clocked up at 1506mhz haha. Can't push it much more than that before it starts having issues.

Hmm I suppose I could join haha. Might be fun.


----------



## Simmons572

I mean, if you are already folding, and you don't plan on shutting it down anytime soon, it won't hurt. You just fill out the signup sheet, and you keep on folding.


----------



## cdoublejj

https://forum.level1techs.com/t/id-like-to-contribute-to-the-new-consolitis-cure/


----------



## Simmons572

Dang, you put a lot of work into that build! Nice


----------



## cdoublejj

And usually rushed work too having access to shops and power tools helps. it would have went even quick had i done the outer back panel first then you can trace you lines on to the inner frame and then psu case and save all that time measuring and or guesstimating.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> My card is clocked up at 1506mhz haha. Can't push it much more than that before it starts having issues.
> 
> Hmm I suppose I could join haha. Might be fun.


and i though i was fancy for pushing my 680 to 1.3ghz


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Well yesterday I had the task of switching components from my boss' PC to another case because he didn't order a low profile graphics card.
Sound easy enough right? well, kinda.
His PC was a low profile Lenovo with an Ivy bridge i5 in it.
And he wanted the parts to go into an HP case. Both cases were Micro atx so that wasn't a big deal, but OEMs usually don't like to play nice with each other.
Why is mentioning the Intel processor generation significant? because Lenovo started using proprietary 14pin main atx connectors starting with the 4th gen haswell variants of their PCs, business and consumer lines.
Fortunately this one is an IVy bridge and uses standard power connectors like any aftermarket or sensible OEM board. The front panel connection was a different story, as was the front audio.

So before removing anything I closely inspected the front power button connector on both PCs. of course none of the connections lined up, but in my opinion the only thing that is really needed is a power button anyway. So I traced out the tiny connector cables on each connector and it looked like I could just offset the HP connector about 2 spaces on the lenovo board for just the power button to line up. Not wanting to take any chances with the Boss' PC I snipped the remaining led cables to prevent anything from potentially shorting on the front panel header.



I then realized that one of the blank out spots on the hp connector would get in the way of a pin on the lenovo board. So I went at it with a push pin.




problem solved.
I mocked up the two cases so the hp connector would connect to the lenovo board, and it worked! unfortunately no pics of this.

Then I proceeded to swap the I/O shields because why not. The lenovo shield had metal tabs that had to be bent out to get the shield out and then it fit.
HP shield held next to it for comparison



I also decided that the HP fan was a bit too noisy so i swapped the 90mm fan from the hp for the 80mm fan from the lenovo. The 80mm was pwm and worked well with the lenovo board.



After the fan was swapped out I inspected the usb connectors carefully and was able to connect the front usb and card reader in the hp case to the lenovo board. no pics of that either.

SUCCESS!!
Lenovo board in an HP case. The only two things that don't work are the usb 3.0 headers on the top of the hp case due to the lack of an internal 3.0 header on the lenovo board, and the front panel audio because the connections were just far too different. My boss uses a 4k tv for a screen anyway so audio will be routed through this. He also has a headset but I was able to swap the internal computer speaker from the lenovo case to the hp anyway and mount it on the front of the hp case with the use of a course thread hdd screw that worked nicely for grabbing the plastic holes.
The only thing left to do is swap the PSU for one with a 6 pin connector. The hp supply didn't have a 6 pin hence why we had to install the low power card in there as a place holder.




final specs will be
i5 3470
8GB ddr3
120gb ssd
500gb hdd,
dvd drive
hp case
and most likely a corsair cx430W psu because it is cheap.


----------



## Nukemaster

Dupont type connectors are very easy to move wires around in(just lift the plastic tab and gently pull the wire). You could most likely have made it all work(even if you had to use the other systems housing.)

Love the pin to fix the blocked hole


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Dupont type connectors are very easy to move wires around in(just lift the plastic tab and gently pull the wire). You could most likely have made it all work(even if you had to use the other systems housing.)
> 
> Love the pin to fix the blocked hole


i tried getting 1 wire out and wasn't playing nice so i decided to go quick and easy


----------



## storm-83

OEM pc cases are just the worst!
Nice job on the switch-over though, and nifty trick with the pin


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *storm-83*
> 
> OEM pc cases are just the worst!
> Nice job on the switch-over though, and nifty trick with the pin


thanks, yeah the pin was just some quick thinking. really didn't want to bend the motherboard pin and then there was the bulletin board, and it was like


not really but seriously though i don't think it could have gone much better unless I had a proper 90mm fan and the patience to remove all those pesky little connector wires.


----------



## Semitangible

I wanted to do a true push/pull fan system on a Cooler Master N200, but couldn't stand how there was a fan mount on the side of the case. I couldn't populate it with a fan because I was using a Hyper 212 EVO, and it almost hit the side as it was. I also wanted a window. I had never modded a case before, so I figured it shouldn't be too hard.

A few hours with a dremel tool, five cutting discs and a trip to Home Depot, and this is what came of it.


----------



## awesomeopossum

--I'm waiting for the U-Moulding to arrive in the mail. The "shaker hood" needs some more touching up



all it lacks is a seasonic.. or maybe an evga psu, and 8gb ddr3 2400. i've only spent ~$165 USD so far.. its in my sig. the hyper t4 was not necessary for an a6 7400k.. but it makes it cool, special.. it makes it uniquely mine









edit: the rear exhaust didn't fit with the cooler master, so it became the front intake


----------



## TK421

I think I'm doing this correctly


----------



## awesomeopossum

nice and cool!! are those 400mm fans? lol

+the rubber U-molding came in for my first case mod:

...much better


----------



## utparatrooper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> I think I'm doing this correctly


Nice. Gives new meaning to "direct air flow"


----------



## Werne

Power went out while I was making pancakes and since I'm too lazy to mix the stuff by hand, this happened.



Also, a guy recently brought me two Lumia 535 phones with broken charging ports for repair. The charging module is separate from the mobo on those things which is good, but the thing is taped to the back of the display casing with double-sided tape so I needed a thin, sharp tool to remove it without damaging anything.



I sharpened a PCI slot cover with a file and wrapped some electrical tape on the other end to use as a handle, works better than the crappy plastic chisel from those disassembly kits I've seen in repair shops.

And just so you can't say I posted nothing about PCs, here's my mouse pad.



The foamy hard drive mount from my dx6120.




Intake fan on my main rig, note the 1TB HGST crammed in some foam behind it.



GPU cooling upgrade.



The new fan works very well, max GPU temp was 62C after 4h of Valley and it's quieter than the one I used before.

And finally, here's my underwear being dried with Prime95.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Power went out while I was making pancakes and since I'm too lazy to mix the stuff by hand, this happened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also, a guy recently brought me two Lumia 535 phones with broken charging ports for repair. The charging module is separate from the mobo on those things which is good, but the thing is taped to the back of the display casing with double-sided tape so I needed a thin, sharp tool to remove it without damaging anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I sharpened a PCI slot cover with a file and wrapped some electrical tape on the other end to use as a handle, works better than the crappy plastic chisel from those disassembly kits I've seen in repair shops.
> 
> And just so you can't say I posted nothing about PCs, here's my mouse pad.
> 
> 
> 
> The foamy hard drive mount from my dx6120.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intake fan on my main rig, note the 1TB HGST crammed in some foam behind it.
> 
> 
> 
> GPU cooling upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> The new fan works very well, max GPU temp was 62C after 4h of Valley and it's quieter than the one I used before.
> 
> 
> 
> And finally, here's my underwear being dried with Prime95.


Is that flour on drill case?








Not sure about using foam to mount HDD as it might make it run hot, but the P95 underwear dryer is classic!


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*


Holy crap!









I am dying here, these are both phenomenal!


----------



## 222Panther222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Power went out while I was making pancakes and since I'm too lazy to mix the stuff by hand, this happened.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, a guy recently brought me two Lumia 535 phones with broken charging ports for repair. The charging module is separate from the mobo on those things which is good, but the thing is taped to the back of the display casing with double-sided tape so I needed a thin, sharp tool to remove it without damaging anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I sharpened a PCI slot cover with a file and wrapped some electrical tape on the other end to use as a handle, works better than the crappy plastic chisel from those disassembly kits I've seen in repair shops.
> 
> 
> 
> And just so you can't say I posted nothing about PCs, here's my mouse pad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The foamy hard drive mount from my dx6120.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intake fan on my main rig, note the 1TB HGST crammed in some foam behind it.
> 
> 
> 
> GPU cooling upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> The new fan works very well, max GPU temp was 62C after 4h of Valley and it's quieter than the one I used before.
> 
> And finally, here's my underwear being dried with Prime95.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> [/SPOILER]


i have to laugh everytime i see that picture...it reminds me of my father sad to say...i also have an interesting story that involves pee in a bottle and my dad but not to be told here....

Anyhow my uncle used to dry his clothes with a jet heater when we would work in the rain...it works really well until it runs out of fuel and sputters it tends to catch clothes on fire....


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> Power went out while I was making pancakes and since I'm too lazy to mix the stuff by hand, this happened.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, a guy recently brought me two Lumia 535 phones with broken charging ports for repair. The charging module is separate from the mobo on those things which is good, but the thing is taped to the back of the display casing with double-sided tape so I needed a thin, sharp tool to remove it without damaging anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I sharpened a PCI slot cover with a file and wrapped some electrical tape on the other end to use as a handle, works better than the crappy plastic chisel from those disassembly kits I've seen in repair shops.
> 
> And just so you can't say I posted nothing about PCs, here's my mouse pad.
> 
> 
> 
> The foamy hard drive mount from my dx6120.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intake fan on my main rig, note the 1TB HGST crammed in some foam behind it.
> 
> 
> 
> GPU cooling upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> The new fan works very well, max GPU temp was 62C after 4h of Valley and it's quieter than the one I used before.
> 
> And finally, here's my underwear being dried with Prime95.


Dont your HDD's over heat with that foam? mine ran really hot when my fan would fall over.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> [/SPOILER]


 mine may be a mess, but at least I use an ash tray...


----------



## 222Panther222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> mine may be a mess, but at least I use an ash tray...


Oh look at me, mister fancy millionaire who can afford an ash tray.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> Oh look at me, mister fancy millionaire who can afford an ash tray.


Lol. Almost anywhere I go in my house I'm within arms reach of an ashtray (except stairway and kids rooms)

Side note, potential ghetto rig coming soon. Gonna get the alphacool nexxxos gpx for my 390x, then see if I can get the fan shroud from the stock strix dc3 cooler to fit over it to put fans on the passive vrm heat sink...


----------



## Powerg4

Ghetto rig just completed, it was going to be watercooled but the pumps didn't have enough pressure to do it so just went air cooled for now









Case started out life as one of those small form factor office pcs. Very small and restricitive case, so the first thing I did was throw the lid in the trash and replace it with those hideous black and green pine wood panels









The back panel was especially restrictive in that it wasn't even wide enough for any standard size pci cards, due to the small intended size of the case, so out came the angle grinder! Ended up making a bracket with a bulldog clip to support the cards at the top.

Here is how I fixed the back panel issue:




For finishing touches I got some lovely green led fans (supported on a frame made from brackets) and a ninja turtle to finish off the build!

We went from this sensible refined case:


To this mess:











Specs are pretty average, 3 ghz core 2 duo and a few gigs of ram. Semi decent gpu but it was all stuff I got out of the rubbish so I can't complain if I didn't even pay for it. Best thing about my new rig though is it dual boots xp and 7 so I can play all my old games that never worked beyond xp properly!


----------



## Erikkre

Sick cooling mod yo!


----------



## KYKYLLIKA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erikkre*
> 
> Sick cooling mod yo!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pitchure


Dust filters? Do you see improvement? I heard paper dust is even worse than normal kind.


----------



## Nenkitsune

I upgraded my Driving Force GT. Replaced the stock motor and swapped it over to the other side to increase its speed. I also added heatsinks to the mosfets. I also had to buy a new gear since there was no way of using the 10T gear needed for the sensor to work now that it's on the other side.

I also added a 90mm fan to it and some heatsinks onto the motor itself to keep it cool. I'm using a pc power supply to run a DC to DC boost converter and have it running at something like 27v or so (this motor's normal running voltage is 18v in its original implimentation and has a maximum standard of 24v) it runs at 4500rpm at 18v but I'm not sure of it's exact RPM is now but it's pretty friggin fast.

The motor pulls something like 2.5amp instead of the 1 amp of the original.

WIthout the stock gear reduction this motor has more torque than the original setup with the gearing reduction. It also spins fast as you can see


----------



## Simmons572

A couple fan blades randomly broke off my Asus GTX 780. So an old AMD stock fan, and a 4600 RPM Delta should work just fine


----------



## RockeyDA

so i found some really nice speakers dumpster diving, and just giving them that first look over and picking them p and feeling how heavy they were i knew they were nice... but there is a catch, FOAM ROTT, not its still winter time and im broke till summer/fall so i had to use speaker parts from aground the house to bring these guys back to life. i made a video on every step of the prosses so ile just post some pics and the vid instead of explain my heart out.

parts


glue


paint


done


Video


----------



## Powerg4

Very nice, those speakers came out well!


----------



## Nukemaster

RockeyDA, You are a junk collector







, but A junk collector I want to hang out with.... You have so much stuff to play with.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> RockeyDA, You are a junk collector
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but A junk collector I want to hang out with.... You have so much stuff to play with.


well im currnelty at the start of a long prossses of getting my own place, starting with fuxing up a car from a junk yeard, hopefully a year buy now i live in a trailer on a back road up in the mountains, witch is a lot cheeper than paying the rent for my dads house.(him and hs GF dont have a job so they need to get there **** together before i leave) but when i have my own place in the middle of nowere i can build sheds and **** and i wont need a permit cuz no one will ever see it. and then i can have a proper workshop with proper mild junk hording









dumpster diving and seeing my firends will be harder, and the internet will suck, but i dont do online gaming anymore anyways.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Getto watch kinda









Uses a DS3231 RTC in a SOC package and a atmeg328pu DIP running Arduino UNO bootloader ( its under all the wires above the display as everything is directly soldered to it .

Display is a DL2416 intelligent display with 7 bit ASCII table for characters , on the right of the display is a 595 shift register ( saves I/O pins on controller ) .

All runs from a Lipo direct , low power mode current is under 1mA , Lipo cell is rated for 210mAh , The UNO wakes up for 500mS checks a pin and goes back to sleep for 5 seconds , if the pin is grounded by a tilt switch it will display the current time . I still need to add date and temperature function too .

Its just a very bulky prototype till I get all SMD stuff and the displays smaller brother .


__
https://flic.kr/p/R4HDrT


__
https://flic.kr/p/R4HDrT
 by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr


----------



## riffraffmakes

After a few days of reading a ridiculous amount of this in off moments at work, I had to join, just to share in the joys of ghetto malarkey. Speaking of work, this is the view from one of my workbenches...



It serves a purpose, that much I can say.

This is my current rig, or pile. The angle iron mounts being the latest addition towards a case, I have a plan, that much I have.





Cigar Box VU meters, after giving up on my intentions on finding the right box, this was the right one.



My N64 - BTW, any advise on Pal friendly av adapters to make this play with the TV would be great now that it works...



My Previous Machine - incidentally, a 7800B APU can game a bit as is, but the CPU is not a limitation to play real games had an R9 270X there but swapped to 380



Cooling you say?


----------



## awesomeopossum

1/3 of a pentium III cooler on the a68 chipset, held in place with arctic silver alumina epoxy. Raspberry pi heatsinks on the metal chokes. im going to pull those off, scrape the thermal pads off and use the arctic silver epoxy to reapply


----------



## awesomeopossum




----------



## Nenkitsune

The chokes aren't what need heatsinks. The mosfets need them lol.

Chokes never even get hot.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> The chokes aren't what need heatsinks. The mosfets need them lol.
> 
> Chokes never even get hot.


Nonsense, this is overclock.net. I have a delta fan cooling my delta fan.

Doesn't look like there are heat sinks on the MOSFETs though, more cooling needed indeed


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Nonsense, this is overclock.net. I have a delta fan cooling my delta fan.




Reminded me of this trainwreck


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Nonsense, this is overclock.net. I have a delta fan cooling my delta fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reminded me of this trainwreck
Click to expand...


----------



## Simmons572

That's an H100 IIRC. Also I think the video is on OC3D's youtube, but I can't verify here at work (youtube is blocked).


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> 
> 
> Reminded me of this trainwreck


I remember that. sounded like a jet engine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> That's an H100 IIRC. Also I think the video is on OC3D's youtube, but I can't verify here at work (youtube is blocked).


indeed it is


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Man, not that irritating, mouthy clown again. He has the worst case of diarrhea of the mouth!


----------



## Simmons572

Just mute the video, and play yakity sax on loop.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> Just mute the video, and play yakity sax on loop.


Boots Randolph sounded much better than that guy!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*
> 
> That's an H100 IIRC. Also I think the video is on OC3D's youtube, but I can't verify here at work (youtube is blocked).


why dose your work block youtube? my work dont block anything, you just agree not to pirate anything (i sometimes forget to close my torrentor on my laptop, if any one knew what that was, peeked and snitched i could probably loose my job over it. but none of my co-workers or boss even knows what a torrent is, most dont even have computers. one of my co-workers is even talking about getting an "internet computer")


----------



## RockeyDA

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simmons572*






Reminded me of this trainwreck









i never seen a non graphics card computer fan be anything other than solid black platic. guess thoes are expensive show off fans? if that is a thing and it probably is.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> why dose your work block youtube? my work dont block anything, you just agree not to pirate anything (i sometimes forget to close my torrentor on my laptop, if any one knew what that was, peeked and snitched i could probably loose my job over it. but none of my co-workers or boss even knows what a torrent is, most dont even have computers. one of my co-workers is even talking about getting an "internet computer")


I work for the government, no fun allowed


----------



## Steele84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> [/SPOILER]


For sure a lvl 100 colonel in all of the Battlefield games...


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steele84*
> 
> For sure a lvl 100 colonel in all of the Battlefield games...


Nah, taking that pic was the first time he got up from his computer since WoW launched


----------



## Nenkitsune

They're the Corsair SP/AF120 series fans. I had like, 4 of them. They're all dead.

I've got random 10 year old 120mm fans that are still like new.

imo, overpriced and crap.


----------



## Master__Shake

y'ever notice you run out of straight pieces long before you run out of curved pieces?

solution.

make your own












for my kids wooden train track


----------



## MCCSolutions

Squeezed my open air system into an old P4 Sundance Server lol "Needs Improvement"


----------



## Pawelr98

Building my bench power supply.

1.25-30V 0-2.5A regulated power supply + 12V Lead Acid Battery charger (10V 5A secondary with schottky rectifier)

2x Tungsram 2N3055 on a huge radiator.


DIY 5A 75mV shunt for ammeter.


Build got bit delayed because of fake LM338K regulators ( I was aware of the high possibility them beeing fake).

Popped with 1-ish A.
One of them which was supposed to limit current. Opened it and no visible damage but no output.
In second one Vin wire (wire that supplies input voltage) melted. These puny wires couldn't handle the current.

There's primary winding switch.
230V can get connected to 230V tap,400V tap or 500V tap.
Current on primary side is lower which makes it possible to switch with generic switches.


----------



## RockeyDA

this aint the place for this, if you know a forum were i should go or actualyl know how to do this let me know

so i have this 384k ram card and i want to put it in my IBM 5155 that has 640k so i can have 1024k ram, its currently configured for a 256k system witch i do have but i would like me one with the 40mb hdd to be decked out even more. also i dont wanna go flipping the memory address switches all willy nilly.


----------



## MCCSolutions

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> this aint the place for this, if you know a forum were i should go or actualyl know how to do this let me know
> 
> so i have this 384k ram card and i want to put it in my IBM 5155 that has 640k so i can have 1024k ram, its currently configured for a 256k system witch i do have but i would like me one with the 40mb hdd to be decked out even more. also i dont wanna go flipping the memory address switches all willy nilly.










1 &6 I think.. .


----------



## s1rrah

From my very first post *EVER* on overclock.net ... when I modded a 120mm fan on to a Zalman 9500 cooler ... LOL ...



...

Oh man ... that thing worked SOOOOOOO Good!!!

LOL ..


----------



## MCCSolutions

Not very Ghetto Look good actually!


----------



## NKrader

Can barely even tell it's modded, quite a fitting mod for a 4000$ accelerator.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NKrader*
> 
> Can barely even tell it's modded


i thought you bought it that way....fooled me


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MCCSolutions*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 &6 I think.. .


but 1 is part of memory on this card witch is correct. and sadly i cant upgrade my 256k ibm portable with it unless i take its hard card out then i have no hard drive and i dont have a dos startup floppy. the hard card dose do 1 thing cool though, dual floppy and hdd in same computer. it actually thows me off and i put disk in drive B:\ but end up typing A:\.
btw that ibm pc has SWAN DOS 3 on it with Norton Change Directory for a UI. my 640k has windows 1.03. swan dos dont let you use help or eddit command.
i also tryied backing up hard drive of windows ibm using floppies and my last serial mouse died so i did it all threw DOS, yay for xcopy, My screen would look like this

C:\>DIR /W
DIR1 DIR2 DIR 3 DIR 4 FILE 1
DIR5 FILE2 FILE3 DIR6 FILE4
FILE5 FILE6 FILE7

BLAH BLAH FILES BLAH BYTES

C:\>XCOPY C:\DIR1\SUBDIR1\ A:\SUBDIR1\
Then coped it over on a dull floppy P3 pc running windows XP


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i dont have a dos startup floppy


And you don't know the DOS command to create a bootable floppy?
format a: /s
When it's done, the disk should have COMMAND.COM and the two hidden files: IO.SYS MSDOS.SYS (or IBMBIO.COM IBMDOS.COM if you use IBM DOS instead of Microsuks)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> And you don't know the DOS command to create a bootable floppy?
> format a: /s
> When it's done, the disk should have COMMAND.COM and the two hidden files: IO.SYS MSDOS.SYS (or IBMBIO.COM IBMDOS.COM if you use IBM DOS instead of Microsuks)


hay before a week ago the only way i knew how to format a disk on dos was FDISK, did not know there was a another commad till i typed help and looked threw all of it. before this ibm pc most of my dos usage was a promt in windows on non windows nt platforms. also any one think its BS that windows xp can use full screen CMD and run most dos games with pc speaker but after that its like NOOO USE EMULATION OR OLDER PC! but yeah, did not know format had options other than drive letter.

also my pc running SWAN DOS has no help command, or edit, i use edit alot, its how i read readmes... and also work on sony monitors with a ttl connector and a windows 98pc.
but that makes me wonder, swan dos have any thing to do with swan computer of statecolge? i no longer around thing.


----------



## RockeyDA

btw, xcopy said it did not copy hiden or system files and my copy of dos i made when i reassembled all its files on my main rig was not bootalbe. is there a command to show alternate file attributes or make xcopy copy everything?


----------



## cdoublejj

Got tired of USB 2.0 wifi speeds and didn't wanna give up VGA in case of parties/portability.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> hay before a week ago the only way i knew how to format a disk on dos was FDISK, did not know there was a another commad till i typed help and looked threw all of it. .


FDISK only creates partitions on a hard drive. You still have to format it.
HELP was introduce in DOS 5. Oh, you use NT and Windows 95 or later, so format could be right-click the partition and choose format!
Swan DOS? First there was IBM PC-DOS and MS-DOS. Then Compaq DOS, Zenith-DOS, it's like every brand had their own version or they used Microsoft's.


----------



## Tisser12

Welp. Gonna try to cut this old heatsink in half and place it side by side to make a long skinny one, put some thermal pads on the back of my video card (Nitro+ 470 8Gb) backplate where the VRMs are and hope it reduces temps. They're gettin too toasty for not even being overclocked.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Got tired of USB 2.0 wifi speeds and didn't wanna give up VGA in case of parties/portability.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a nice functional little hack. good work


----------



## awesomeopossum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nenkitsune*
> 
> The chokes aren't what need heatsinks. The mosfets need them lol.
> 
> Chokes never even get hot.


Weird, mine were very hot before I stuck heatsinks on em. Mosfets are running a lot cooler too now


----------



## RockeyDA

so i got a new monitor


and it meant it was time for color calibrations and restoration of my old main monitor. i had a replacement tube and spent all weekend on this project. i also now use a ibm model m keyboard, i could not find a space bar so i made one from a crappy dell keyboard and an extra key cap.


so i took my monitor of my ping pong desk for the first time since late 2014 and was terrified on what was behind my lead glass barriers.

much better!


first fail test with a almost new tube on old monitor, had issues, video coming in a week or less.


My new desk setup


trying to show off how closely i tuned my crt's and im not done yet, red gun in the right monitor aint quite emitting enough, and its ttl connector is inside the monitor so i will have to tear it down and try boosting the red in sony DAS


trying to show off how sharp my picture is at 1536p 80hz, im really proud of my crt tuning


trying to show off my color depth next to a lcd, but my camera dose it no justice at all. i really wish i could show you how bold and deep the colors are espicely on the new old crt! there both just mind blowing.


and tiny rims


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> btw, xcopy said it did not copy hiden or system files and my copy of dos i made when i reassembled all its files on my main rig was not bootalbe. is there a command to show alternate file attributes or make xcopy copy everything?


Wanna bet its xcopy /H ?

xcopy source [destination] [/a | /m] [/d:date] [/p] [/s] [/e] [/w] [/c] [/i] [/q] [/f] [/l] [/h] [/r] [/t] [/u] [/k] [/n]

Try xcopy /? for a list of switches.. every self respecting DOS after 3.20 should have "help" build in

BTW: the official M$ list is here


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> this aint the place for this, if you know a forum were i should go or actualyl know how to do this let me know
> 
> so i have this 384k ram card and i want to put it in my IBM 5155 that has 640k so i can have 1024k ram, its currently configured for a 256k system witch i do have but i would like me one with the 40mb hdd to be decked out even more. also i dont wanna go flipping the memory address switches all willy nilly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thats an old LIM board isn't it?

You cant have 1MB of RAM , not on old DOS 8086, 80286, 80386, 80486, ....
You can only have 640 K , because _"640K is more memory than anyone will ever need."_









Also, the A20 gate/hole will effectively prevent you from accessing anything above 640k.... unless you load himem.sys & emm386.exe in config.sys and use the space between 640 & 1024 to hiload keyb , mouse & command (and maybe ansi.sys)

But, maybe with OS/2 or Windows NT/386 you can have the "full" 1 meg at you disposal


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Thats an old LIM board isn't it?
> 
> You cant have 1MB of RAM , not on old DOS 8086, 80286, 80386, 80486, ....
> You can only have 640 K , because _"640K is more memory than anyone will ever need."_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the A20 gate/hole will effectively prevent you from accessing anything above 640k.... unless you load himem.sys & emm386.exe in config.sys and use the space between 640 & 1024 to hiload keyb , mouse & command (and maybe ansi.sys)
> 
> But, maybe with OS/2 or Windows NT/386 you can have the "full" 1 meg at you disposal


can you run any version of windows NT on an 8088? (never seen any thing older than NT 4.0)
also thanks a tone.... i wanna use that ram card, only way i can in other ibm is if i remove hard, gpu, or fdd card.... or maby find a ISA riser or make one. a project for another time. i actually want to play aground with os's on my 5155, but i also dont want to loose my ones on hdd, so backing up every file on hdd is what i need.
on a side note i really wish i could find a computer case with four 5 1/4" bays and two 3 1/2" bays, but i never seen one so my just find one method probably aint gonna help me.


----------



## RnRollie

No, no NT on 8088 & 8086 , but in the time between IBM's OS/2 and M$ NT4 there were 286 & 386 versions --- a bit similar to DOS-4 & Windows 2.0 i would say, haha

You can use that LIM card, but you're gonna have to do some DOS tweaking and best do it with an "original" IBM or PC DOS, at least v3.2, preferably v5

As for a case... you're looking for something like an old "beige/grey" Chieftec case... 3-4 3.5" cages + 6-8 5.25" cages ... if you are lucky you can find one in a skip or in a 2nd hand store or maybe at one of those organisations that recuperate old IT stuff to help teach the old, poor, homeless, etc some IT skills.
BTW searching through the skip of "big" governmental organisations & hospitals & the like can turn up some amazing things.. like an old Solaris server worth +200 000 at the time


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> No, no NT on 8088 & 8086 , but in the time between IBM's OS/2 and M$ NT4 there were 286 & 386 versions --- a bit similar to DOS-4 & Windows 2.0 i would say, haha
> 
> You can use that LIM card, but you're gonna have to do some DOS tweaking and best do it with an "original" IBM or PC DOS, at least v3.2, preferably v5
> 
> As for a case... you're looking for something like an old "beige/grey" Chieftec case... 3-4 3.5" cages + 6-8 5.25" cages ... if you are lucky you can find one in a skip or in a 2nd hand store or maybe at one of those organisations that recuperate old IT stuff to help teach the old, poor, homeless, etc some IT skills.
> BTW searching through the skip of "big" governmental organisations & hospitals & the like can turn up some amazing things.. like an old Solaris server worth +200 000 at the time


2 problems, no car, so i have to be willing to hall load on foot, good will has never carried computers, nore center peace, nore the faith center. and the salvage center (witch apparently rebranded them selves as lion surplus on the outside but at work we still call it savage) scraps any thing older than 2006 ish and i cant get in there scrap bins, but only on mondays, no car, cant walk there on lunch break. its a shame to, crt's are all you can grab for 1$ but it depends on staff, some people refuse to sell the stuff there paying to have recycled. also my biggest regret of not buying there was a mac pro 2005 dual xeon server. i did not buy dew to fear of needing a apple graphics card, then i learned apple gpu's just have diffrent 12v power connector, regret.
but sadly most of salvage these days is random retired PSU equipment and Dell Optiplex 775's.

i want a car so bad... funny thing is i need to do my taxes but dont have enough money to pay some one to do them, and im really worried im gonna mess it up when i try. i know i looked at it last year and i was like "i have no ideah what half these questions mean"


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> No, no NT on 8088 & 8086 , but in the time between IBM's OS/2 and M$ NT4 there were 286 & 386 versions --- a bit similar to DOS-4 & Windows 2.0 i would say, haha
> 
> You can use that LIM card, but you're gonna have to do some DOS tweaking and best do it with an "original" IBM or PC DOS, at least v3.2, preferably v5
> 
> As for a case... you're looking for something like an old "beige/grey" Chieftec case... 3-4 3.5" cages + 6-8 5.25" cages ... if you are lucky you can find one in a skip or in a 2nd hand store or maybe at one of those organisations that recuperate old IT stuff to help teach the old, poor, homeless, etc some IT skills.
> BTW searching through the skip of "big" governmental organisations & hospitals & the like can turn up some amazing things.. like an old Solaris server worth +200 000 at the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 problems, no car, so i have to
> ---snip---
> 
> i want a car so bad... funny thing is i need to do my taxes but dont have enough money to pay some one to do them, and im really worried im gonna mess it up when i try. i know i looked at it last year and i was like "i have no ideah what half these questions mean"
Click to expand...

You're gonna have to take a bus or something to your nearest regional IRS center/office, the address should be on the IRS website (and the golden pages)
Ask them to help you out. And they will gladly do so. I even think they have to do that by law.
But best make an appointment first, no use showing up unannounced on a Friday at 4:30 PM.... They are civil servants after all.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> No, no NT on 8088 & 8086 , but in the time between IBM's OS/2 and M$ NT4 there were 286 & 386 versions --- a bit similar to DOS-4 & Windows 2.0 i would say, haha
> 
> You can use that LIM card, but you're gonna have to do some DOS tweaking and best do it with an "original" IBM or PC DOS, at least v3.2, preferably v5
> 
> As for a case... you're looking for something like an old "beige/grey" Chieftec case... 3-4 3.5" cages + 6-8 5.25" cages ... if you are lucky you can find one in a skip or in a 2nd hand store or maybe at one of those organisations that recuperate old IT stuff to help teach the old, poor, homeless, etc some IT skills.
> BTW searching through the skip of "big" governmental organisations & hospitals & the like can turn up some amazing things.. like an old Solaris server worth +200 000 at the time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 problems, no car, so i have to
> ---snip---
> 
> i want a car so bad... funny thing is i need to do my taxes but dont have enough money to pay some one to do them, and im really worried im gonna mess it up when i try. i know i looked at it last year and i was like "i have no ideah what half these questions mean"
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You're gonna have to take a bus or something to your nearest regional IRS center/office, the address should be on the IRS website (and the golden pages)
> Ask them to help you out. And they will gladly do so. I even think they have to do that by law.
> But best make an appointment first, no use showing up unannounced on a Friday at 4:30 PM.... They are civil *serpents* after all.
Click to expand...

There. Fixed it for ya.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Case was abit to short above the GPU and I had to remove one side bar to get it into the case : D


----------



## rodaduck

my getto gaming chair,fully electric
adjustable and self contained when finished


----------



## frostbite

Thats pretty awsome, I used to have a recaro bucket to sit in when I used to play on the xbox


----------



## domrockt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Case was abit to short above the GPU and I had to remove one side bar to get it into the case : D


i have the same case and needed a bit of "modding" to fit my fury tri-x in there








i mean you all know how it is.. you order a new gfx it arrives...the damn card wont fit... i could have checked the measures... so you get into your car drive to the toolshop and buy yourself a metal saw and make room 4 that damn card until your waterblock arrives...





and so does it look now


----------



## lexer

Mom PC upgrade !







Watercooled for heavy facebook and netflix workloads








I had some left over WC parts and hardware from my main build. So i bought a Asrock B85 PRO 4 Refurbished + i3 4130 OEM and a used 7970 XSPC Waterblock since one my old 7970 has a fan dead


With a 2x120mm @ 1000RPM ... CPU goes up to 45-47°C full load and GPU stay at 35° during video playback, heavy GPU usage can go up to 50° due the small rad, but that will never happen


----------



## Pawelr98

A basic 30V reference for voltage preregulator.
Will add 5/7.5V zener diode later to get it to higher voltage.

With a transistor it will create a basic series regulator.
I need this to provide power for LM723.


----------



## KuKIE

So i was given a swiftech h220 a while back with a dead pump and i modified it for use with an external pump for a while until the rotary barbs started leaking. I decided i wasn't going to throw out a perfectly good radiator just because of some bad o rings so i set about repairing it and managed to remember to snap a few pics while doing so.


The metal peice that held the barbs was soldered into the end tanks, i removed those first.

My tap wouldnt cut enough threads into the end tanks without hitting the core so i removed them with a torch

Here it is soldered back together with fittings from the hardware store.

Filled and leak tested, ready to go back into the pc.


----------



## doyll

Well done @KuKIE








Were you a radiator repairman in a previous life? Not many around anymore.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well done @KuKIE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Were you a radiator repairman in a previous life? Not many around anymore.


extra bonus points for the tubing...but my question is can it make soda yet


----------



## KuKIE

This was the first time i tried taking a radiator apart like this honest lol.

However, I have worked for over a decade as an automotive electrical rebuilder.

The process of heating the metal with a torch and removing and replacing the end tanks is quite similar to the way you would replace the diodes in a mitsubishi alternator, so the process was very familiar despite never doing it before.

Also on the tubing, i chose this style because its the first style of tubing i used in this case back when i started watercooling,

It goes nice with my IDE cables from back then


----------



## weespid

15$ gtx 570 from cragslist the poster said that the heat sink "fell off in his case one day"



but for $15 i had to take an stab at it. some how it still worked some zip ties later with an 8350 stock heatsink.





then that got merged with my ghetto (budget) test bench.



and an cardboard box too.....

make the ghettoist pc i have ever made.






edit specs and price of the pc are
[email protected] -$20
deepcool captin 360mm -$50
990fxa ud3 r4, -$80
8gb 1600mhz ram-$30
ghetto 570 @960 core 1.1v , 2256mhz ram-$15
120gb ssd and 250gbb hdd -free (salvage)
seasonic x650 gold psu-$40
samgsung syncmaster crt oced 2048 [email protected] free (garbage)
box-free
for an total of $235 cdn not bad for what it is plays all my games at around 60 fps except doom 2016 where it really needs vulken but that will never happen nor dx 12 thanks nvidia.


----------



## Pawelr98

Old Unitra "Tamburyn" Radio.

These were produced in 1973-75. Basically it's the same(electronic wise) as more popular "Jubilat" radio.


Changed 4 capacitors to change the band from OIRT (65-74MHz) to CCIR (88-108MHz).
To finish the change I will need a special screwdriver to adjust the coils.
Even with just changed capacitors I can already pick up some radio stations.


A full bridge rectifier from salvaged diodes.

No need to change bulbs anymore + scale is equally lit.


35V Linear Preregulator for my power supply.

330uF 200V Salvaged Capacitor, Bridge rectifier from salvaged diodes.
BD139 NPN transistor,small radiator from broken switching mode power supply, 3x10V + 1x5V Zener as voltage reference,1Kohm resistor + 680Ohm resistor to limit current flowing through zener diodes.

Powered from 42V AC it gets steady 60-ish V DC.
This way LM723 voltage regulator will have headroom for driving power transistors regardless of voltage that powers the transistors (separate transformer with 2x15V AC is planned, LM723 can only go up to 40V DC while transistors can go up to 60V).

I still need to make -2V negative supply line. This is needed in order to get all the way down to 0V.
Of course post didn't deliver potentiometers on time so even If I rushed and finished eveything then at top I would be able to get exactly 10V out of power supply due to lack of proper voltage divider(feedback to LM723).


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

About to Velcro a H90 on top of a H105


----------



## KuKIE

On a quest to watercool an old PC i had laying around, I made a cpu waterblock.

The pieces cut to shape.

Ready to go together.

Installed in the PC.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuKIE*
> 
> On a quest to watercool an old PC i had laying around, I made a cpu waterblock.
> 
> The pieces cut to shape.
> 
> Ready to go together.
> 
> Installed in the PC.


Man, I cant even remember if slot one even got hot, what gpu is that?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuKIE*
> 
> On a quest to watercool an old PC i had laying around, I made a cpu waterblock.
> 
> The pieces cut to shape.
> 
> Ready to go together.
> 
> Installed in the PC.


I'm sorry but this has no business in this thread. It looks far too professional to be "ghetto".

All seriousness aside, well done!


----------



## KuKIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Man, I cant even remember if slot one even got hot, what gpu is that?


Its an ATI All In Wonder 9800 Pro, It was the first video card I owned with a fan on it.
It was also one of the cards I had in this case just before I started water cooling. I stopped using it when the fan died and like you say around that time not many GPUs were hot enough to even need fans so putting it on water back then was a bit of a foreign concept.

This build is a bit of a journey into what it would have been like if I got into water cooling just a few years earlier, when you had to make most of the parts because you couldn't buy them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> I'm sorry but this has no business in this thread. It looks far too professional to be "ghetto".
> 
> All seriousness aside, well done!


Awwwww come on, LOL its held in place with zipties, doesn't than count?









But seriously I did spend over a month staring at the heat sync on my desk working out a way to do it so that might explain why it looks professional, even though i spent under $10 and used a hand saw to cut the pieces.

If you could see the mess of clear silicone up close it would look more ghetto, lets just say I put more than necessary because this wasn't the first attempt.

I should get around to making a dedicated thread for this project, I just wanted to make sure I had a running pc first, as in, I had nearly completed this project once already but when I swapped out the tubing to connect it to a radiator I repaired for this build I crushed the corner of my AMD Duron putting the tubes back onto the block.

All I had laying around with an AGP slot and still working was this Pentium 3 which my old water block didn't fit, so I worked with what I had.


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC

What your looking at is in my sig and I run 2 waterchillers and A/C when required .









3 4k 28" monitors with a combined resolution of 11560x2160p . Middle one is freesync .

1hp chiller with 2 rads to cool them R9 290's when I'm not running the chiller .

1/10 hp chiller to directly cool my o/cd 4960x . No rads .

I run the cpu chiller at 23c 24/7 which is 5 c to 7c below ambient .

That's why I have cpu loop insulated and just the intake for the rads .

I'm using HVAC 3/4" inside that's used for insulating copper refrigerant pipe .

Cause I live in Brisbane SE Queensland this time of year humidity / wet weather plays a big part in what sub ambient temps I can run . Insulated or not .

So for the CPU loop 5c to 7c below ambient is the sweet spot for minimal condensation .

BUT when I run the A/C and the ducted house A/C at 18c I can run the loop even lower .

I can set the chiller to cool at 3c if I so desire .

GPU loop is a different beast altogether









The 1 hp chiller has a 4ltr res .

When the setpoint is say 18c and my room A/C running at 18c the GPU chiller exhaust gets sucked in to the room A/C's intake i have it pointed at the rads which in turn blows the air over my motherboard and chills the room too .

Actual watertemp is 15c / 16c . So when I was benching the 290's @ 1300mhz + I would have a full load temp of less that 30c . No chiller 45c to 50c

The best feature of this is when the A/C is running I really don't need to turn on the GPU chiller









I know its ghetto , don't care really BUT the results and reliability ive achieved over the years speak for itself .

Also I think waaay out side the square , circle , box ect


----------



## RockeyDA

i know i aint been posting much, but i just got full time at work, so less time for projects but now i have money to put in them. juming from 20hr-40hr per week to 40 all the time and 10$ per hour to 15 per hour fo 90 days then 16per hour, then 17 after 2 years. im going from scrapping to once my pay checks catch up ile be able to buy a car every 3 months, ile make enough to live on my own.... my life is turning around.

my dream of being a crazy mointan man with alot of guns, subs land so far away no one will notice all the crazy stuff i do is a realistic possibility. my dream home is a double wide trailer with a basement on a large patch of land, i thought i would only be a dream but im heading to it, to start i just need land and cheep trailer then expand later on in life.

also selling stuff on ebay has become a second but slow source of money so ibm 5155 modernization is back in action, just bought a stretchy new 20$ 600W psu that will probably be DOA or die in first week.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know i aint been posting much, but i just got full time at work, so less time for projects but now i have money to put in them. juming from 20hr-40hr per week to 40 all the time and 10$ per hour to 15 per hour fo 90 days then 16per hour, then 17 after 2 years. im going from scrapping to once my pay checks catch up ile be able to buy a car every 3 months, ile make enough to live on my own.... my life is turning around.
> 
> my dream of being a crazy mointan man with alot of guns, subs land so far away no one will notice all the crazy stuff i do is a realistic possibility. my dream home is a double wide trailer with a basement on a large patch of land, i thought i would only be a dream but im heading to it, to start i just need land and cheep trailer then expand later on in life.
> 
> also selling stuff on ebay has become a second but slow source of money so ibm 5155 modernization is back in action, just bought a stretchy new 20$ 600W psu that will probably be DOA or die in first week.


40hrs a week at $16 per? I remember my first part time summer job... now its 50-60hrs a week and $35 per lol. I'm just messin about man, grats on making more $ and more hours, save and spend wisely!


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> 40hrs a week at $16 per? I remember my first part time summer job... now its 50-60hrs a week and $35 per lol. I'm just messin about man, grats on making more $ and more hours, save and spend wisely!


i assume you putting out thats a bit much for my first full time job but your looking at it wrong. im looking at it like, im 22, never driven a car (llegally), stuck living with my dad, still part time. thats ok if your between 16-18. but im 22, i should of has my own house a long time ago, still a vergen to, im way behind on a lot of things, some things i want to stay behind on, like i dont want a cell phone, or any thing to do with social media or cable for that matter. also im glad to be well behind on drinking, i dont know how some one could drink something that sells like trash after watching some one else become weak defenseless and dumb from doing it.

i mean my life could have derailed worse as i could of made some huge mistake that messed everything up. (have to have a perfect record to work for PSU) but im not were i saw my self in 2017. to me over a year to land a job then took me 2 years before a position went to the street. meanwhile i did not do much else so i feel like im still fresh out of high school. 95% of my life is home and work, i use to ride my bike around alot but working made me lazy. i got a friend who is a month younger tham me and he has had around 15 cars, destroyed them all but still. i have only been behind the wheel durring a depressed rampage witch i have had 2 of.

before i got full time i planed on using tax returns to buy first car, leave my current job witch is easy cuz i catch ride with a coworker, get full time somewhere else, but i got less than last year even though i worked twice as many hours, 450$, but owed 60$ to friend, my dad wanted me to buy dinner for every one, thats 30$ and my dad wanted me to put 100$ in to his car. i was left with 260$ to spend, that would not even get me a junk yard car. so i have up and bought a 90 Model M keyboard and just slowly diped in to my money here and there as i did not make enough to save anything after bills. also keep in mind my dad has no job but has ssi witch is only 600$ a month, rent is 750$ a month, and he has a girl friend with no job. i cant live on my own, but i can also barley live here.

that was my life for so long and i though it would never end, my life was alot worse when i was younger but its like damn, im getting what i want for once, a chance out, a reason to go on. im so damn happy now! i know i typed alot but this change means soooo much to me! and without being in my shoes you probably dont understand it. i would say all i need now is a relation ship but i think im better off on my own, i know 0 gay poeple and having to put up with some one else defeats the purpose of living in the middle of nowhere. normal im afraid of change , not this time, i cant wait!


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

7970 @ 1180Mhz Core ,

Idle 25C , Running Boinc for 12 minuets at 98% load temperature hit 40C , Input current was 18.5A @ 12.1V , Cooler is a H55 .

I removed the metal plate from around the GPU aswell


----------



## frostbite

Testing parts then installing advanced server 2000


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Corsair still didn't send me my AM4 bracket, so I'm going to make one myself.

I'll print it once the 3D printer is calibrated.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Corsair still didn't send me my AM4 bracket, so I'm going to make one myself.
> 
> I'll print it once the 3D printer is calibrated.


Yessss that is awesome! Definitely need some pictures.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

I didn't want to wait for Corsair's AM4 bracket or waste money on a NZXT G10 for my RX 480, so I draw the brackets in Solidworks and 3D printed them.

I had to use an angle grinder to cut a few pieces off the GPU baseplate, but it all worked in the end.

I'm running Corsair H90 + H105 Velcro taped together.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Tried to upgrade the 70mm fan to a 80mm fan on the H90 bracket but ran out of room.

Nothing an angle grinder can't fix.


----------



## RockeyDA

i know this aint the right place but i know you gys here so question time.
So some one i know gave me these 4 workstation GPU's they were getting rid of at his job.
1. would 1 of these outperform my 680 running at 1.3ghz?
2. dose crossfire actually work? or is it worse than 1 card like SLI?
3. these cards only have that funky Display Port, Port, and my monitors are 1536p VGA, i dont have a non VGA monitor anyways, is there any kind of adapter than can run VGA without performance lost. a trip to Amazon just led me to cables that have a strange 1080p limit... witch i think is odd as hell since most vga monitors are 4:3.
if #3 is a no then i guess these are going on Ebay as untested as i wont be able to use them at all.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know this aint the right place but i know you gys here so question time.
> So some one i know gave me these 4 workstation GPU's they were getting rid of at his job.
> 1. would 1 of these outperform my 680 running at 1.3ghz?
> 2. dose crossfire actually work? or is it worse than 1 card like SLI?
> 3. these cards only have that funky Display Port, Port, and my monitors are 1536p VGA, i dont have a non VGA monitor anyways, is there any kind of adapter than can run VGA without performance lost. a trip to Amazon just led me to cables that have a strange 1080p limit... witch i think is odd as hell since most vga monitors are 4:3.
> if #3 is a no then i guess these are going on Ebay as untested as i wont be able to use them at all.


They are actually very close in power to your 680 but they are not optimized for gaming so I doubt you would see any real world improvement. Also, companies don't reference 4:3 monitors anymore when dealing with specs. VGA is just the interface and still exists on most new monitors - What you're referencing is a CRT monitor.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> They are actually very close in power to your 680 but they are not optimized for gaming so I doubt you would see any real world improvement. Also, companies don't reference 4:3 monitors anymore when dealing with specs. VGA is just the interface and still exists on most new monitors - What you're referencing is a CRT monitor.


yeah but 1440p is closest 16x9 resloution closest resolution to the 4:3 1536p, i looked up adapters and aparntly they have a DAC in them, and all of them run at low freq, cant find one that can max out VGA's bandwith. also every LCD ihave had with VGA was 4:3 or evermore common 5:4

also take it crossfire sucks then like SLI? as i got 7pcie slot and 4 run at x16 speed (all x16 size) i know with sliz kus of framrate being jutter 3 gtx 480's was a worse gaming experience than one, and my highest framrate was 3 times by my lowest was half my old lowest, and the real killer was the frames came at in inconsistent rate so even if i had 90fps it looked like 18. tried it on 3 computers, 3 os's on sr2, and tryied 3 way and 2 way, and every time games were most playable with 1 card, and my main test game was metroLL maxed out 1536p as it claimed SLI and physx support.

if crossfire sucks and this card is less than my 680 and i cant run my monitors i own seems kinda silly to keep them. and these days there probably way to weak to mine.


----------



## xenkw0n

It would be pointless to keep them. Might be able to get a few $ selling them on ebay. Just also want to point out that youre still limited by the amount of pcie lanes on a CPU/Motherboard. There are no consumer setups that can support 4 x16 pcie devices at the same time in full x16. Thats 64 PCIe lanes... x58 had 36 afaik, all 115x series intels have only 16-20 afaik and x79/x99 has either 28 or 40, depending on the CPU. Still... x8 pcie 3.0 is still even more bandwidth than a brand new Titan Xp needs.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

on a scale of 1 to ghetto, I would call my my desk's leg a minor affair but its the most ghetto thing I have right now.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> It would be pointless to keep them. Might be able to get a few $ selling them on ebay. Just also want to point out that youre still limited by the amount of pcie lanes on a CPU/Motherboard. There are no consumer setups that can support 4 x16 pcie devices at the same time in full x16. Thats 64 PCIe lanes... x58 had 36 afaik, all 115x series intels have only 16-20 afaik and x79/x99 has either 28 or 40, depending on the CPU. Still... x8 pcie 3.0 is still even more bandwidth than a brand new Titan Xp needs.


Actually, some MOBOs, such as the ASUS x99 WS series, can support as many as 4 GPUs at x16.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Actually, some MOBOs, such as the ASUS x99 WS series, can support as many as 4 GPUs at x16.


Do you know which ones? I know with x58 and some older models extra PCIe lanes are incorporated into the MB but I though since 2nd gen i series that they were all restricted to what the CPU offered, and 40 is the max on x99.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Actually, some MOBOs, such as the ASUS x99 WS series, can support as many as 4 GPUs at x16.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know which ones? I know with x58 and some older models extra PCIe lanes are incorporated into the MB but I though since 2nd gen i series that they were all restricted to what the CPU offered, and 40 is the max on x99.
Click to expand...

ASUS X99-E WS/USB 3.1 and ASUS X99-E-10G WS.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> It would be pointless to keep them. Might be able to get a few $ selling them on ebay. Just also want to point out that youre still limited by the amount of pcie lanes on a CPU/Motherboard. There are no consumer setups that can support 4 x16 pcie devices at the same time in full x16. Thats 64 PCIe lanes... x58 had 36 afaik, all 115x series intels have only 16-20 afaik and x79/x99 has either 28 or 40, depending on the CPU. Still... x8 pcie 3.0 is still even more bandwidth than a brand new Titan Xp needs.


Then my SR-2 is a Lie is it claims it has 4 x16 and 3 x8 and claims is quad SLI ready... are you shure you not wrong on that? i haven't known EVGA to like about specs.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Then my SR-2 is a Lie is it claims it has 4 x16 and 3 x8 and claims is quad SLI ready... are you shure you not wrong on that? i haven't known EVGA to like about specs.


Oh you're talking about an SR-2 then yea I think that has like 60-something lanes so you could run 4 cards in x16 (PCIe 2.0).


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> Oh you're talking about an SR-2 then yea I think that has like 60-something lanes so you could run 4 cards in x16 (PCIe 2.0).


Nah, it can only utilize the 32 lanes from the master cpu (it technically has 36 but four are used for the south bridge). It uses dual NF200 chips to get four slots @ 16x or all seven @ 16x/8x/8x/8x/8x/8x/8x.

My Classified 4-Way SLI is the same.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I got a roof rack for my car and did not like the way it was secured. I couldn't get the clips tight enough so it moved a little. It came with a stretch kit which is mainly for 2 door cars with a small area to clip to. I really have no idea how they expected the rear rack to stay in place with it. Nothing prevented the extension from moving, so even the slightest tug on the rear bar would break it free.

Anyway, I got a an extra set of clips for the stretch kit and made a hole for a hitch pin. Doing this I was able to lock the bars together and give the rack another point to clamp to the roof. Now when I pull on it the car moves instead of the rack. It looks too professional for this thread but it was a quick ghetto fix. I'm going to place holes every 2" on the inner sliding part so I can adjust the length if need be. You can also see my ghetto water sealing job on the sun roof.


----------



## Pawelr98

Output looks like this. Ripple gets smaller at higher input voltages or lower loads.



Ghetto boost circuit made from junk.

Chinese D4515 high voltage NPN transistor,radiator, FR302 fast diode, 820uF 200V capacitor,coil,47uF 50V capacitor,1nF capacitor (timing) and four resistors (0R22,620R,47K,100R)

Only MC34063,socket, PCB and 0R22 resistor are new. Rest is from ATX power supply.

This way I can power small neon bulbs or even power a phone charger (mine kicks in at around 32V).

This boost circuit can maintain 87.5V at input voltages between 9-40V.


----------



## Unknownm

Updated my rig wiring, still a mess but everything is organized to groups instead of hanging around.

The second GPU is a x1950XTX GDDR4, top gpu is 980 ti hybrid


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Output looks like this. Ripple gets smaller at higher input voltages or lower loads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto boost circuit made from junk.
> 
> Chinese D4515 high voltage NPN transistor,radiator, FR302 fast diode, 820uF 200V capacitor,coil,47uF 50V capacitor,1nF capacitor (timing) and four resistors (0R22,620R,47K,100R)
> 
> Only MC34063,socket, PCB and 0R22 resistor are new. Rest is from ATX power supply.
> 
> This way I can power small neon bulbs or even power a phone charger (mine kicks in at around 32V).
> 
> This boost circuit can maintain 87.5V at input voltages between 9-40V.


i really like your little scope







in high school all our scopes were B&K and mine is a B&K

its an old picture but its still same scope i have now. also i made a mod on a 20$ psu and will post when at home and not forgettign to post.


----------



## Pawelr98

It's an old portable Russian oscilloscope.

In theory it should be able to go up to 5MHz.
At very low timebase the beam gets rather dim so VHF band will be tricky to measure.

It also has an built in multimeter. It's broken and repairing it would be a nightmare(not my photo).









I do have full documentation which includes schematics,bloc diagrams or even part list.
But due to above I don't feel like repairing the multimeter part.
It's a common failure on this model. Oscillosope part is very simple and robust so any repairs are quite simple.

Another problem is that not all parts can be replaced with western counterparts.
There are some exotic parts with no equivalents in western-made IC's.

Sometimes clones could actually be better than originals.
Say 2N3055 60V/15A NPN power transistor.
Rough equivalent would be Tesla KD502 however at the same it has almost twice the minimum gain(40 vs 20) and 20A collector current(makes it 2N3772 equivalent with greater gain).
There's also KD503 which is simply KD502 with 80Vce max.
Both however were still produced as hometaxial base so they don't really have secondary breakdown unlike their newer western counterparts(epitaxial-base).

Too bad these are not produced anymore. They are great for power supplies due to lack of secondary breakdown and bigger gain(no need for darlington at high currents).


----------



## 222Panther222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Updated my rig wiring, still a mess but everything is organized to groups instead of hanging around.
> 
> The second GPU is a x1950XTX GDDR4, top gpu is 980 ti hybrid
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you use the x1950XTX for anything in particular?


----------



## RockeyDA

so i bought a 20$ Chinese power supply that claims 600w to use for a few months before switching to a OCZ
since opening the package brought smells of burnt enamel i figured i ott to test it for power up with no computer, check all voltages, and inspect interior since the 600w psu weighs less than a 200w. suprisingly it powered up and all voltages werre spot on, were talking 12.00v 3.300v 5.01v, i did not test under load but u also did not want to stress it before inspection


inspection was SAD, there is no way that is sufficient cooling for 300w theirs nothing there, if this thing dose its wattage its just going to blow up!


next job was to get proper heatsinks, i took some off of a dead roswell 600w PSU
they did not 100% fit so i dremmeld them up till they did.


array of emergency distractions so you feel like your not wasting your weekend!


this is final product and aluminum foil case can now close over this. not all screw hols lined up and i did not feel like drilling, and i also did not want to waste expensive thermal adhesive on a 20 PSU to i put my cheep silver ebay thermal compound (witch works really well) on the center of the transistors and screwed down what i could then put pressure on others with finger wile i went arround edge and screw hole with superglue. i held it for 10min (good thing i had detracting shinchan and drink.)



final product works as before and has 50mv or 0.05v ripple. the filter caps in the computer end should be able to handle that so i put it in use and it has worked fine.

also i did this over a month ago and at the time of me posting this i have a more trustable PSU now.


----------



## m1919

With the release of the 1080 Ti... I got another 1080 FTW Hybrid off ebay for about 400 CAD less than retail (these cards still go new for about 1k shipped.)

And at the same time, an upgrade to 2011-v3 with the Z10PE-D8 WS, 64GB Samsung DDR4 ECC and a pair of apparently QS E5-4655 v3s (QH9F); 6C/12T @ 2.9 GHz stock, running 104.8 MHz bclk. PSU is now an EVGA 1000P2 as I did not have enough connections on the 850P2 to support the setup; this is unfortunate as it had the capacity to handle this setup under full load.

Single-core turbo is 3.35 GHz, two core turbo is 3.25 GHz, all-core to 3.04 GHz. From what I'm seeing the QH9F is basically exactly the same as the production processors of the same model.

I've pushed this case pretty much as far as it will go in its mostly unmodified form. It was a real bear to get two Hybrid cards to fit in this case as space is surprisingly limited and everything must be installed in a certain order otherwise it's a no go. Even just mounting the fans and rads for the Hybrids was a challenge as the rads are 120mm while the fans are 140mm, each has to be mounted separately. In the end, it works out quite well. The front 240mm rad is mounted on a pair of custom brackets and hung from the top panel of the case, with the air intake coming through vented 5.25" bays up front.

Load temps on my procs don't seem to exceed 40C under load, idle is under 30C right now. My 1080s max out around 55-60C depending on load. Considering the case was never designed to have this much crap stuffed into it, I would say the temps are pretty good. The thermals even with the 240mm rad on intake and my second 1080 exhausting direct into the case are surprisingly good. The build is not dead-silent, but it's significantly quieter than my previous setup as my Lenovo D30 board did not have any provisions for controlling fan speed via PWM from bios.

I may zip tie on a couple fans for the VRM heatsinks for insurance, but I don't think they are getting particularly hot under load to actually need them; the airflow from the top 240mm rad setup seems to keep them cool enough. If I run at the "generic" fan speed setting in bios the rig is near-silent, but I would definitely need some active cooling on those VRMs as they will get toasty otherwise.

The SSDs mounted on the back of the motherboard tray were originally mounted on the case floor, but the wiring was a pain so I drilled some mounting holes on the CPU backplate access panel and mounted them there.

Plans for later are rotating out my 4 platter drives into my server and replacing with more SSDs; with that I will be removing the hotswap bay as it's a waste of space and replacing with a cage more appropriate for 2.5" drives. Right-angle SATA cables also coming.



















Lol, cable management.









Better shot of the rad setup before moving to the Z10PE-D8 WS.









Front intake; there's an air filter there now. Also the fan controller is now gone as I'm controlling everything via PWM now.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Updated my rig wiring, still a mess but everything is organized to groups instead of hanging around.
> 
> The second GPU is a x1950XTX GDDR4, top gpu is 980 ti hybrid
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you use the x1950XTX for anything in particular?
Click to expand...

Right now nothing. I'm trying to find z97 drivers for windows vista since the last x1950xtx drivers were Windows vista.

The whole point is to see what the 4690k can bring to the gpu in benchmarks.


----------



## RockeyDA

anyone know were i can go for help touble shooting problems on a IBM 5155? it has the motherbord of a IBM PC XT and mine refuses to detect 640k ram all of a sudden, it stuck in 256k mode.


----------



## kernel G

Has anything been changed recently? Could be a memory issue with the SIMM contacts corroding. I'd start by removing all and using pencil eraser across the contacts, then reinstall. Be careful with the release clips. I had an XT board with plastic clips, snapped one and had to replace the motherboard. (Working at IBM at the time, the only board I ever broke!)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> Has anything been changed recently? Could be a memory issue with the SIMM contacts corroding. I'd start by removing all and using pencil eraser across the contacts, then reinstall. Be careful with the release clips. I had an XT board with plastic clips, snapped one and had to replace the motherboard. (Working at IBM at the time, the only board I ever broke!)


i reseated all the chips and dug threw some old books, i checked all mechanical connections ignoring solder joints as i have not removed motherbord yet. my next 2 points of trouble shooting fliping the dip switches showed its just plain in 256k mode (it can go down to i think 16k in this mode) and a ic identified as U84 is used to adress the 640k memroy in 640k systems and is not present in a 256k system. this eara is known for habing bad caps so first im going to check all for shorts then check to see if that all sound right wen i play music threw them, if i find 1 bad cap im recaping whole bord, then if all else failes im looking at IC U84

btw i sprayed contact cleaner in the sockets of every chip i reseated, and like i said, i reseated all socketed chips.


----------



## acheleg

those are 20 year old ram chips- one could have gone bad. did you take the 128 stick out, and see if it recognized 512?


----------



## acheleg

modding plwer supplies, heh... i cut the molexes off a power supply to use it to power a car stereo amp.

when i got my 1045t, without a proper heatsink, i soldered 2 stock amd heatsinks together.


----------



## Jump3r

Well I think what i just done was Ghetto.

Needed to install another OS on my raspberry Pie, didn't have an SD card reader.

Removed the SD card from my HTC M8, put in the raspberry pie one, formatted it on the phone. Mounted the phone to my PC over USB then copied the NOOBS boot-loader onto the MircoSD.

Reason for all this, Team Speak 3 is blocked in UAE with one of the ISPs. My phone is with the other one, so I can hotspot my raspberry pie to my phone in order to use TS3 with my friends back in Australia. My phone headset audio was bad, so now I can use my Razor Siren Mic. Just need a mixamp to combine the audio from Raspberry pie with my Ryzen build now (second sig rig)


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acheleg*
> 
> those are 20 year old ram chips- one could have gone bad. did you take the 128 stick out, and see if it recognized 512?


128k sick? do you mean row by that?
also im gonna be putting this project on the back burner soon as junk day has made to many more projects.


----------



## RockeyDA

so many projects to come, i had 1 hell of a junk day. best find so far was a mostly tube admiral color table top. i think it had transistors for the color prepossessing.

i made 2 videos on it if your interested in seeing the rest of my finds, but im only posing that if requested.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> so many projects to come, i had 1 hell of a junk day. best find so far was a mostly tube admiral color table top. i think it had transistors for the color prepossessing.
> 
> i made 2 videos on it if your interested in seeing the rest of my finds, but im only posing that if requested.


Dont those give off x rays when you sit to close to them?


----------



## RockeyDA

The Tube is a 12VASp22 and its a Delta Gun
now i will try to find a data sheet on it...
20min lator, having trouble finding more than a manual for Sincore or B&K CRT Tester.. i know the heater runs at 6.3 volts now.
time to google something along the lines of "x-ray emission 70's crt" it being color means higher voltage but it being smaller brings it back down again, the radiation is blocked out with lead on modern sets, probably is here to but i got time to kill ATM.
"VDTs that use a cathode-ray tube (CRT) display produce internal X radiation; the tube face, however, is designed to filter out this radiation"
this crt has a sticker claiming to have that so hope that answers question.

more discussion on it.
http://www.videokarma.org/archive/index.php/t-112954.html

and a pic of the inside of the TV, im giving it a low level inspection and cleaning then im gonig to fire it up in series with a 300w light bulb, the tv is 280 watts but the bulb is rated for [email protected] 130v instead of 120v



so once it drys (have 2 fans and a dehumidifier on it) im going to give the flyback an inspection for any crispies or wax drippings and if all looks good im doing first test run tomorrow morning.

btw i washed it out with low pressure hot water in the slop sink (i have a garden hose switched to the shower like mode)


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Dont those give off x rays when you sit to close to them?


Yes, and also when you sit further away from them!








The display tube glass has lead to help reduce the x-rays. Sit to the side or back, less or no filtering. But you can't see the image from there!


----------



## RockeyDA

OK!! this tv took some work and its going to need alot more, but for the most part it works.

this was my first time getting a raster on it


this is the tube glowage


this is it running but not without problems. the IF is crazy out of aliment audio is on channel 3 but video is on channel 4 and video can not come in clear.
i also thing i might have a problem with the fliter cap as the picture seems to have a but of bob and ripple to it.
and adj the vertical linearity while the vertical size dose both linearity and size so i will have to look into that to.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acheleg*
> 
> modding plwer supplies, heh... i cut the molexes off a power supply to use it to power a car stereo amp.
> 
> when i got my 1045t, without a proper heatsink, i soldered 2 stock amd heatsinks together.


How well did that work out?
How kind of heat did it take to stick those together?


----------



## burticus

ignore me, I've forgotten how to post, apparently


----------



## Sgsi5512

The motherboard is an ATX, but the case is MicroATX. I drilled out the HDD cages, and "relocated" some of the standoffs. I won the CPU from @dranas in a BOINC competition. The motherboard was STR8 from china lol (used, even). All of the cables run thru the back, where the IO shield would have been.


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigSteak*
> 
> 
> 
> The motherboard is an ATX, but the case is MicroATX. I drilled out the HDD cages, and "relocated" some of the standoffs. I won the CPU from @dranas in a BOINC competition. The motherboard was STR8 from china lol (used, even). All of the cables run thru the back, where the IO shield would have been.


I seem to recall someone similar doing this with an NZXT vulcan over in the vulcan owners club. and I found the link. Now i don't know if he only re-located the psu to fit the bottom rad in it or if it an atx board on top of it but still same general concept. here you go. http://www.overclock.net/t/774308/the-official-nzxt-vulcan-owners-club/2380_20#post_23083082


----------



## ComradeCommie

Yup, cardboard and spraypaint. 3.5" drive bays come in handy when not in use.
If you're wondering, thats a dimension 3000 case I plan to build a gaming PC in.


----------



## acheleg

i soldered them, so , whatever temp it takes to melt lead... if i remember, the modded heat-sink brought temps down about 5 degrees c from stock, the aftermarket cooler master hyper-4 brought it down another 7 degrees c (13 down from stock, total).


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *acheleg*
> 
> i soldered them, so , whatever temp it takes to melt lead... if i remember, the modded heat-sink brought temps down about 5 degrees c from stock, the aftermarket cooler master hyper-4 brought it down another 7 degrees c (13 down from stock, total).


I was more asking about if you used a propane torch or some other method?

5c does not seem like allot, but if you could run the fan slower, it sounds great.


----------



## Skye12977

Looking for a little help here. I forgot how I wired up my weird thing.

I'm using a power-supply for some weird... contraption is the best thing to call it.

I'm using switches to control the flow of power/ground to turn on my power supply.

Each switch is like this:

Pin 1 Power

Pin 2 Pass through when turned on

Pin 3 Ground

*When the switch is off, nothing happens.

**When the switch is on, the power or ground is passed through Pin 2

***If Pin 1 has power and Pin 3 has ground and LED illuminates.

I believe I used three switches to complete this, but I know for sure that two (of the three, if I did use three) operated in this manner.

Switch 1 off and Switch 2 off, nothing illuminates

Switch 1 on and Switch 2 off, only Switch 1 illuminates

Switch 1 on and Switch 2 on, only Switch 2 illuminates and power supply turns on

Switch 1 off and Switch 2 off, nothing illuminates


----------



## Unknownm

the uncle has 2 acers just sitting in his office.

Took both home and gutted them from the case. Gonna install windows XP to test out my x1950xtx


----------



## Nukemaster

Skye12977, I we may need more detail as to what is going on.

Unknownm, Nice power supply mount


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Skye12977, I we may need more detail as to what is going on.
> 
> Unknownm, Nice power supply mount


I stripped the screw trying to release it so I guess this PSU is stuck on the bracket. Yes I know it can still be removed but that takes effort and i'm posting on ghetto rigging


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> I stripped the screw trying to release it so I guess this PSU is stuck on the bracket. Yes I know it can still be removed but that takes effort and i'm posting on ghetto rigging


use a dremmel and cut it out the ghetto way.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> I stripped the screw trying to release it so I guess this PSU is stuck on the bracket. Yes I know it can still be removed but that takes effort and i'm posting on ghetto rigging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> use a dremmel and cut it out the ghetto way.
Click to expand...

only if I had one

Anyways update. Got windows 7 32-bit installed, ati tool is running and now finally adjust the voltages and memory timings!


----------



## 222Panther222

My Polk PSW125 amp blew, well the green light is still on but no signal go to the sub-woofer, and the fuse seems ok, I even tested it on an old Logitech z2300 and on another receiver.
It was 150w r.m.s 8ohms and had to be set at +10 in the receiver, so i hooked an old school Rockford 300s car amp 4ohms 300w bridged
The sub-woofer can handle way more power than i thought, even at +0 in the receiver, the bass is soooo much tighter and stronger, i can feel it in my chest, It isn't muddy like the old car sub-woofer it powered.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> My Polk PSW125 amp blew, well the green light is still on but no signal go to the sub-woofer, and the fuse seems ok, I even tested it on an old Logitech z2300 and on another receiver.
> It was 150w r.m.s 8ohms and had to be set at +10 in the receiver, so i hooked an old school Rockford 300s car amp 4ohms 300w bridged
> The sub-woofer can handle way more power than i thought, even at +0 in the receiver, the bass is soooo much tighter and stronger, i can feel it in my chest, It isn't muddy like the old car sub-woofer it powered.


is this thing a sub amp only? and do you hear the relay click? is there any hind of faint hum or his you can here at all from it? if "?-Yes-Yes-No" i would back track and try checking your connections up to the amplifying ic/transitor/transistors and see if any are shorted/open and make sure there getting power as well.

but before any of that i would inspect all connections and solderjoints, lead free solder is not reliable in the long run. im not an expert but im also not a noob, if you need any other help or suggestions PM me.


----------



## TrYzRAID




----------



## 222Panther222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> is this thing a sub amp only? and do you hear the relay click? is there any hind of faint hum or his you can here at all from it? if "?-Yes-Yes-No" i would back track and try checking your connections up to the amplifying ic/transitor/transistors and see if any are shorted/open and make sure there getting power as well.
> 
> but before any of that i would inspect all connections and solderjoints, lead free solder is not reliable in the long run. im not an expert but im also not a noob, if you need any other help or suggestions PM me.


Yes it's at the back of the sub-woofer, no relay click when plugged, there is a faint hum. I'll check the solders join.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> Yes it's at the back of the sub-woofer, no relay click when plugged, there is a faint hum. I'll check the solders join.


i would double check to make shure it has a relay, if it dose and its not clicking the amp could be going to protect, witch dose complicate things a bit.


----------



## masterX244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> --snip--
> whats that green thing thats behind the GPUs?
> --snip--


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masterX244*


the reflection off the bag?


----------



## masterX244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the reflection off the bag?


meaning upper left corner of the picture


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

A helmet?


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masterX244*
> 
> meaning upper left corner of the picture


my cuz has some foam master cheife helmet. i think its dumb as its not z87+ so to me theres no point to it.


----------



## masterX244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> my cuz has some foam master cheife helmet. i think its dumb as its not z87+ so to me theres no point to it.


was wondering since i was unable to recognize it from that view


----------



## storm-83

One of the fans om my asus 780 dcII died.
Had a spare cooler, 8 zip ties later and temps never exceed 60 while gaming with the noctua's on 7v


----------



## XanderTheGoober

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *storm-83*
> 
> 
> 
> One of the fans om my asus 780 dcII died.
> Had a spare cooler, 8 zip ties later and temps never exceed 60 while gaming with the noctua's on 7v


need to get some heatsinks on those memory modules, add a fan to cool memory after that and you should be really good!


----------



## storm-83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XanderTheGoober*
> 
> need to get some heatsinks on those memory modules, add a fan to cool memory after that and you should be really good!


Memory chips don't get all that hot really, the heatsink didn't even contact them...

I have a Silverstone Air Penetrator pointing at the vrm's, highest i have seen them now are 77 - nearly 10c lower than stock...

But yeah, this is rocking!


----------



## RockeyDA

@storm-83
thats one hell of a test paturn you have for a profile pic.
is it from a generator you have?
and how many things are you meant to do with it?
looks like linearity size, convergence and hue/saturation and focus


----------



## storm-83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> thats one hell of a test paturn you have for a profile pic.
> is it from a generator you have?
> and how many things are you meant to do with it?
> looks like linearity size, convergence and hue/saturation and focus


It's an old aerial standby signal used by the Danish Radio and Tv Broadcast stations "back in the day".
It has been modified so that the specific channel name and logo is not shown.
It's a picture i adopted in a time of hardship in my life, and on some forums, and even facebook, it just sort of got stuck. It seemed very appropriate for my situation at the time 

Here is a sample of what it actually looked like:


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *storm-83*
> 
> It's an old aerial standby signal used by the Danish Radio and Tv Broadcast stations "back in the day".
> It has been modified so that the specific channel name and logo is not shown.
> It's a picture i adopted in a time of hardship in my life, and on some forums, and even facebook, it just sort of got stuck. It seemed very appropriate for my situation at the time
> 
> Here is a sample of what it actually looked like:


i was expecting a pice of equipment like this but more fancy


something odd and cool about my generator is it has EGA/CGA support on top of what you see in the front.


----------



## oobymach

Twist ties and elastic bands are among the materials I use to get fans where I want them, if there's no fan mount? No problem, 2 twist ties (the kind you get on cords with electronics) can stabilize a fan. In my case now is one such fan blowing air between my graphics cards.


----------



## paulerxx

I don't have a camera right now but my wifi card doesn't have the antennas so I have a fork in there to act as the antenna and it works better than you'd think!


----------



## storm-83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oobymach*
> 
> Twist ties and elastic bands are among the materials I use to get fans where I want them, if there's no fan mount? No problem, 2 twist ties (the kind you get on cords with electronics) can stabilize a fan. In my case now is one such fan blowing air between my graphics cards.


twist ties are my go to cable management tools in my builds / mods (both for myself and when helping others out).
the ability to untie, re-arrange and re-tie is simply wonderful.

the only reason i didn't use any on my gpu mod, is because i have a custom bracket in my case, holding the fan in place, pounting direcly at the vrm/gpu area - blowing on the vrm and around the mount...

i managed to get my cpu undervolt under control yesterday, this had the adverse effect of lowering temps on my gpu core as well (bad case is a veritable hot-box) - it now bare breaks 50c under gaming load


----------



## Pawelr98

Ghetto high power resistor.

Steel line separated into couple small diameter steel strings.

"Idle" resistance is 26 ohms.

It can dissapate plenty of power. A single string was taking 30Vx2A=60W (~15ohms/string at "red hot") while glowing red(the black marks on wood).

At low power the resistance is stable enough for basic experiments. Steel has high temperature coefficient so as it heats up the resistance increases quickly.

There are 10 strings total.

I will try to find a ceramic tile to stop the wire from burning the wood.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto high power resistor.
> 
> Steel line separated into couple small diameter steel strings.
> 
> "Idle" resistance is 26 ohms.
> 
> It can dissapate plenty of power. A single string was taking 30Vx2A=60W (~15ohms/string at "red hot") while glowing red(the black marks on wood).
> 
> At low power the resistance is stable enough for basic experiments. Steel has high temperature coefficient so as it heats up the resistance increases quickly.
> 
> There are 10 strings total.
> 
> I will try to find a ceramic tile to stop the wire from burning the wood.


i like this concept but what do you use it in?


----------



## Pawelr98

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto high power resistor.
> 
> Steel line separated into couple small diameter steel strings.
> 
> "Idle" resistance is 26 ohms.
> 
> It can dissapate plenty of power. A single string was taking 30Vx2A=60W (~15ohms/string at "red hot") while glowing red(the black marks on wood).
> 
> At low power the resistance is stable enough for basic experiments. Steel has high temperature coefficient so as it heats up the resistance increases quickly.
> 
> There are 10 strings total.
> 
> I will try to find a ceramic tile to stop the wire from burning the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> i like this concept but what do you use it in?
Click to expand...

Testing power supplies and power electronics in general.

Recently I was working on fixing a fatal flaw in my e-bike charger.
Used this resistor as a load to analyse what actually happens in regulation circuitry,


----------



## TK421

with liquid metal thermal paste for ultimate thermal dissipation

but as is a zotac card, the cooler sucks balls, and they can't bin the card for crap


----------



## randomassname

when one of your PCI-E slots malfunctions and you have to disassemble about 30% of your case and stick all your cables and your SSD out just to fit your big ass GPU in the second PCI-E slot


----------



## OdinValk

Not too ghetto, but when your kids want you to burn movies, and you don't feel like re-routing cables to put it back in the case.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with liquid metal thermal paste for ultimate thermal dissipation
> 
> but as is a zotac card, the cooler sucks balls, and they can't bin the card for crap


What card is that, and what kind of a drop in temps did you see after you applied the liquid metal?


----------



## HOMECINEMA-PC




----------



## frostbite

That reminds me of the prometeia mach 2gt

I always wanted one but a waste of electicity now

I used quick steel to try and seal my cracked exhaust manifold


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> What card is that, and what kind of a drop in temps did you see after you applied the liquid metal?


Zotac 1080 amp non extreme edition

Zotac is among the worst binner of pascal card I've seen, the cooler is small junk with zero airflow design and weak fans

Stock voltage/maxed power limit cannot hit 2000mhz stable, junk card! Even in maxwell generation, gamers nexus complained about the 970 amp version not ocing at all

Overall I wouldn't recommend zotac to new buyers of gpu, trash binning that invalidates strong pcb vrm design

Stock cooler at 100% fan is around 80c with kryonaut thermal paste, liquid metal and vardar fans around 58c with one oddity of warframe at 4K getting 64c


----------



## masterX244

Needed to test something on airflow... fan fixed by SATA-cables and the PSU


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Gift wrap string tied and hot glued a cheap blower to a passive NVS 290.

Used packing tape to make an air duct.


----------



## masterX244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Gift wrap string tied and hot glued a cheap blower to a passive NVS 290.
> 
> Used packing tape to make an air duct.
> 
> --SNIP-- Images optimized out


Funny how most ghettorigs tend to be related to airflow and cooling


----------



## RockeyDA

So this is a scraped up 7V DC Powersupply. i made it for a friend out of scraps. it might only be 7v but i can melt small bolts betwen the terminals of the secondary. i have not tryed that with my new mega rectifier. my friend is trying to make hydrogen and i dont know if high amperage low voltage is a good thing but if it is he has amps for days now, either way if he need more volts he could always unwind the secondary and find wire thinner than 8gaudge, but this 8 awg dose not get to hot when melting stuff.

here you can see i was worried a single all in one diod bridge rectifier would just burn up so i paralleled it with 7 more for 8x current support.


then soldered it all together and a filter cap from a scaped TV tacked on just in case


----------



## Scott1541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> So this is a scraped up 7V DC Powersupply. i made it for a friend out of scraps. it might only be 7v but i can melt small bolts betwen the terminals of the secondary. i have not tryed that with my new mega rectifier. my friend is trying to make hydrogen and i dont know if high amperage low voltage is a good thing but if it is he has amps for days now, either way if he need more volts he could always unwind the secondary and find wire thinner than 8gaudge, but this 8 awg dose not get to hot when melting stuff.


Cool, is that an old microwave oven transformer? I've got one of those bad boys sitting around that I salvaged from an old microwave, was considering replacing the secondary with some heavy gauge wire for melting purposes


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scott1541*
> 
> Cool, is that an old microwave oven transformer? I've got one of those bad boys sitting around that I salvaged from an old microwave, was considering replacing the secondary with some heavy gauge wire for melting purposes


yes it is, you should see my 1000w halogen light transformer i did that to.


----------



## OdinValk

EDIT: nevermind, the connector has a male/male thingy in the end, just removed that lol


----------



## Hexylnl

decided that the radiator of the crappy corsair H55 is banned outside.

only 1 tie-wrap used


----------



## Ajjlmauen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hexylnl*
> 
> decided that the radiator of the crappy corsair H55 is banned outside.
> 
> only 1 tie-wrap used


Why did you do this?


----------



## Hexylnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ajjlmauen*
> 
> Why did you do this?


my first H55 had the irritating clicking sounds @ pump after aprox. 1 year, so got it claimed under warranty... now 1 year later.. same issues..

so i made my case for not wanting the RMA claim, but have it upgrade to a newer (hopefully better) product, i would even be covering the additional costs... but support won't budge so *** them


----------



## Pawelr98

Who needs an expensive case with multiple bays.

Drill to remove bolts and then just generic metal parts from hardware store.

Cooling of the HDD's improved but still no good enough.
For now I just keep two fans to make it cool.

Later I want to add some aluminium radiators on the other side as there's still plenty of space there.
Should make it cool under passive conditions.

I'm still waiting for two HDD's to come back from RMA.
I want to build 6x2TB RAID 6 array(8TB usable out of 12TB) to keep a lot of files.


----------



## RockeyDA

i know this is a computer forum but i would like to see more than just a fan ziptied inside a computer case. break out the duct tape and make some things happen


----------



## Hexylnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> i know this is a computer forum but i would like to see more than just a fan ziptied inside a computer case. break out the duct tape and make some things happen


Well there's still that case that i need to build for my rig.. but i'm fresh out of inspiration for a while now


----------



## xenkw0n

Does this count? I used a dremel to cut apart an old hard drive cage so I could fit bigger fans in my case but in doing so I removed the support for the cage and it needed to be held up. Cut a piece of the excess steel and then used some JB Weld to stick it on top of the cage. Then I cut out a little bit of the front of the case so the steel I just put on top of the cage would slide through the front panel and support the cage.


----------



## Unknownm

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> the uncle has 2 acers just sitting in his office.
> 
> Took both home and gutted them from the case. Gonna install windows XP to test out my x1950xtx






Alright good news. Dad's wife office job refresh all computers and was gonna throw these out, lucky she knows I like collecting them. Unit is "Dell OptiPlex 7010" and the LCD is "Dell 2209wa"

To my surprise it's packing Ivy Bridge 3770 (non-K) cpu with 8GB 1600mhz ram, pretty good for FREE!!!

This is gonna replace the other computer (in quote).


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 
> Alright good news. Dad's wife office job refresh all computers and was gonna throw these out, lucky she knows I like collecting them. Unit is "Dell OptiPlex 7010" and the LCD is "Dell 2209wa"
> 
> To my surprise it's packing Ivy Bridge 3770 (non-K) cpu with 8GB 1600mhz ram, pretty good for FREE!!!
> 
> This is gonna replace the other computer (in quote).


That's insane. Stuff people do when they don't know what they have...


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> 
> Alright good news. Dad's wife office job refresh all computers and was gonna throw these out, lucky she knows I like collecting them. Unit is "Dell OptiPlex 7010" and the LCD is "Dell 2209wa"
> 
> To my surprise it's packing Ivy Bridge 3770 (non-K) cpu with 8GB 1600mhz ram, pretty good for FREE!!!
> 
> This is gonna replace the other computer (in quote).
> 
> 
> 
> That's insane. Stuff people do when they don't know what they have...
Click to expand...

She said there are all going into recycling. This unit was her office PC and she works in a pretty big office too bad I'm not allowed to get inside to take the rest.

Imagine selling these? 10-20 of them


----------



## xenkw0n

It pains me to know about things like that. Reminds me of when the social security office I worked next to last year was getting rid of a bunch of 20" DELL CRT monitors... as in paying someone to take them and throw them out. I looked up the model and they were really nice monitors that could hit ~100hz at 1600x1200. Flat screens. They sell for 100$+ on ebay for those extreme gamers that dont want to lose any latency in FPS's. They told me they couldnt sell them because they were government property and they didnt want to risk having ANY DATA STOLEN OFF OF THEM. WHAT.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> It pains me to know about things like that. Reminds me of when the social security office I worked next to last year was getting rid of a bunch of 20" DELL CRT monitors... as in paying someone to take them and throw them out. I looked up the model and they were really nice monitors that could hit ~100hz at 1600x1200. Flat screens. They sell for 100$+ on ebay for those extreme gamers that dont want to lose any latency in FPS's. They told me they couldnt sell them because they were government property and they didnt want to risk having ANY DATA STOLEN OFF OF THEM. WHAT.


data stolen from a CRT monitor? how is someone gonna steal from that

assuming there is EPROM on a CRT MB you could only get information about resolution or freshrate and color depth.

unreal


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ghetto high power resistor.
> 
> Steel line separated into couple small diameter steel strings.
> 
> "Idle" resistance is 26 ohms.
> 
> It can dissapate plenty of power. A single string was taking 30Vx2A=60W (~15ohms/string at "red hot") while glowing red(the black marks on wood).
> 
> At low power the resistance is stable enough for basic experiments. Steel has high temperature coefficient so as it heats up the resistance increases quickly.
> 
> There are 10 strings total.
> 
> I will try to find a ceramic tile to stop the wire from burning the wood.
> 
> 
> 
> i like this concept but what do you use it in?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> It pains me to know about things like that. Reminds me of when the social security office I worked next to last year was getting rid of a bunch of 20" DELL CRT monitors... as in paying someone to take them and throw them out. I looked up the model and they were really nice monitors that could hit ~100hz at 1600x1200. Flat screens. They sell for 100$+ on ebay for those extreme gamers that dont want to lose any latency in FPS's. They told me they couldnt sell them because they were government property and they didnt want to risk having ANY DATA STOLEN OFF OF THEM. WHAT.
> 
> 
> 
> data stolen from a CRT monitor? how is someone gonna steal from that
> 
> assuming there is EPROM on a CRT MB you could only get information about resolution or freshrate and color depth.
> 
> unreal
Click to expand...

That's our brilliant Government for you.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> That's our brilliant Government for you.


I stood there for a few seconds just staring at him waiting for the eventual sign that he was being sarcastic and just had really good dry humor. Nope. Never came. I ended up just saying "...Ok" and walked away with my mind blown over the fact I just offered this guy cash for things he was throwing out and got turned down.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

My state used to have the same policy with RAM. Now they just pull the hard drives out and throw the rest into storage for who knows how many years until finally auctioning them off.

They're really inconsistent about PC replacements too. They replace some user's PCs every single year, but there's still 10+ year old Windows XP machines in use. They run an air filter weighing facility for air born contaminants. It's not on a network, it only outputs measurements. The software only ran on XP and older, so the IT group made them replace the entire system, somewhere around $200K to rebuild the clean room to fit the new machine. Meanwhile, there still agencies run XP machines that are on the state's network...

I want to rant about more, but don't wanna get too political.

OH, here's how the local law enforcement rack their servers, they definitely earned their spot in this thread:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> That's our brilliant Government for you.
> 
> 
> 
> I stood there for a few seconds just staring at him waiting for the eventual sign that he was being sarcastic and just had really good dry humor. Nope. Never came. I ended up just saying "...Ok" and walked away with my mind blown over the fact I just offered this guy cash for things he was throwing out and got turned down.
Click to expand...

He would've been in trouble if he got caught giving away or selling computers he was required to trash. Government regulations often make no sense and/or are even downright stupid but one can catch hell on Earth if one breaks a regulation.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> My state used to have the same policy with RAM. Now they just pull the hard drives out and throw the rest into storage for who knows how many years until finally auctioning them off.
> 
> They're really inconsistent about PC replacements too. They replace some user's PCs every single year, but there's still 10+ year old Windows XP machines in use. They run an air filter weighing facility for air born contaminants. It's not on a network, it only outputs measurements. The software only ran on XP and older, so the IT group made them replace the entire system, somewhere around $200K to rebuild the clean room to fit the new machine. Meanwhile, there still agencies run XP machines that are on the state's network...
> 
> I want to rant about more, but don't wanna get too political.
> 
> OH, here's how the local law enforcement rack their servers, they definitely earned their spot in this thread:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Invisible racks. How clever!


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> They're really inconsistent about PC replacements too. They replace some user's PCs every single year, but there's still 10+ year old Windows XP machines in use. They run an air filter weighing facility for air born contaminants. It's not on a network, it only outputs measurements. The software only ran on XP and older, so the IT group made them replace the entire system, somewhere around $200K to rebuild the clean room to fit the new machine. Meanwhile, there still agencies run XP machines that are on the state's network...
> 
> I want to rant about more, but don't wanna get too political.


I agree! I'm working @ liquor delivery company and we have to stop by liquor stores to pick up and most computers use Windows 7 which is a Client PC but I've seen a couple of them run Windows 2000 which is beyond LAZY. HELLO! we are taking about thousands of dollars transactions and they feel fine connecting win 2000 to the internet


----------



## animal0307

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> They're really inconsistent about PC replacements too. They replace some user's PCs every single year, but there's still 10+ year old Windows XP machines in use. They run an air filter weighing facility for air born contaminants. It's not on a network, it only outputs measurements. The software only ran on XP and older, so the IT group made them replace the entire system, somewhere around $200K to rebuild the clean room to fit the new machine. Meanwhile, there still agencies run XP machines that are on the state's network...
> 
> I want to rant about more, but don't wanna get too political.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree! I'm working @ liquor delivery company and we have to stop by liquor stores to pick up and most computers use Windows 7 which is a Client PC but I've seen a couple of them run Windows 2000 which is beyond LAZY. HELLO! we are taking about thousands of dollars transactions and they feel fine connecting win 2000 to the internet
Click to expand...

The water jet I run at my work still runs XP. It's from 2004 and we've blown up 2 computer on it (lighting) and as far as I know our IT guys just has a clone of the hard drive and rebuilds the thing from whatever we have laying around at our shop, which probably needs to be put out to pasture any because we are small time machine/fab shop so anything we have laying around is already 6+ years old. But there is a specific PCI card that handles all the motion controls and I think the software/drivers may only work on XP. That or my boss doesn't like to spend money on repairs/upgrades/preventative maintenance so we just deal with what we have.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> They're really inconsistent about PC replacements too. They replace some user's PCs every single year, but there's still 10+ year old Windows XP machines in use. They run an air filter weighing facility for air born contaminants. It's not on a network, it only outputs measurements. The software only ran on XP and older, so the IT group made them replace the entire system, somewhere around $200K to rebuild the clean room to fit the new machine. Meanwhile, there still agencies run XP machines that are on the state's network...
> 
> I want to rant about more, but don't wanna get too political.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree! I'm working @ liquor delivery company and we have to stop by liquor stores to pick up and most computers use Windows 7 which is a Client PC but I've seen a couple of them run Windows 2000 which is beyond LAZY. HELLO! we are taking about thousands of dollars transactions and they feel fine connecting win 2000 to the internet
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The water jet I run at my work still runs XP. It's from 2004 and we've blown up 2 computer on it (lighting) and as far as I know our IT guys just has a clone of the hard drive and rebuilds the thing from whatever we have laying around at our shop, which probably needs to be put out to pasture any because we are small time machine/fab shop so anything we have laying around is already 6+ years old. But there is a specific PCI card that handles all the motion controls and I think the software/drivers may only work on XP. That or my boss doesn't like to spend money on repairs/upgrades/preventative maintenance so we just deal with what we have.
Click to expand...

As long as a computer is kept completely isolated from the internet and other computers (this includes the use of thumb drives, etc., older operating systems can be used safely. The designers of computer operated machinery should design their systems to be upgradable to newer OSes, though. The company I receive my pension from had to scrap several carousel storage systems because the cheaped out and bought an older system that couldn't be upgraded. We had them in use only a year or two before having to scrap them out when they couldn't be integrated with Window XP when the company upgraded to XP.


----------



## RockeyDA

the computers at my work still run windows XP excluding that smaller computers that just send data and pimp chemicals based of the my computer witch links to a secondary one upstarts. i work for PSU landry and i run the 5-mod tunnel washer i dont know if the Milnor software is compatible for a different os but i know it was programmed for our Landry for our unique setup, so probably not. whats kinda funny is this Landry was built in 2012 and they still stuck with good ole XP.

also back to a slightly older conversation, as some one who mildly collects crt's i take great offence to the government then. if i had a car i would have a pretty good collection, but even though its easy to find a crt, going on 23 and i still cut it close with bills so no car any time soon(if my dad or his wife got a job that problem would go away).

also have my living room like area for the crt's, it no longer looks like this as i have destroyed most of the black plastic crap TV's

looking back on it most of the black plastic crap tv's are behind the 36" so i guess it didn't change to much. altho admittedly i have the tv's scatterd cuz i wanted to play around with my crt tester.

the only newer tv's i realy care about is the trinitrons.


and since im posting tv pics my bedroom tv.


also i was chasing a dirty contact on the blue screen control on this TV but i poped my crt tester on it only to see blue emission is all over the place.


----------



## NiKiZ

Bought some cheap RGB strips and it came with a very basic controller which whined for some reason based on the brightness.. Now very happy with the settings it provided. It didn't have the rainbow cycle, the "Smooth" setting was just multi color breathing mode and strobe just flashed the different colors. My motherboard doesn't have AURA so I can't control it that way either..

I have a Raspberry PI 3 laying around with no use for it. Maybe I could hack something together..


This is the controller and the remote for it.


So, I opened the controller and it has a very basic PCB.


I desoldered the chips (Ripped off some traces too, oh well.. I wont restore it back anyway) and soldered some ribbon cable to the mosfet legs and to the ground. I also soldered a wire ti the IR sensor data pin, maybe I could program it to control the settings. The Raspberry PI detects the sensor and it is working.


Connected the ribbon cable to a floppy connector which fits nicely on the PI.



Connected to the Raspberry PI.

Wrote some code to control the lights with Python. I have actually never wrote Python before and I just threw this together in a day, so it might not be pretty.. But hey, it works! I have to implement a way to change the settings rather than editing the source code.


Spoiler: Python code



Code:



Code:


#!/usr/bin/python
'''
    Raspberry PI LED strip controller.

    This uses pi-blaster software PWM to control the GPIO pins.
    https://github.com/sarfata/pi-blaster

'''

''' Import stuff '''
import sys
import os
import time

''' Global variables '''
# GPIO pins for the LED strip channels
gpio_r = 23;
gpio_g = 24;
gpio_b = 25;

# Brightness 0-100%
brightness = 100.0;

# Delay 0-1000ms
delay = 10;
speed = 10;

# Predefined colors
color = "ff00ff";
colors1 = "ff0000", "ffff00", "00ff00", "00ffff", "0000ff", "ff00ff";
colors2 = "ff1010", "ffff10", "10ff10", "10ffff", "1010ff", "ff10ff";

''' Color format conversion '''
# Converts hex to rgb array
def hex_to_rgb(value):
    value = value.lstrip("#");
    lv = len(value);
    return tuple(int(value[i:i+lv/3], 16) for i in range(0, lv, lv/3));

# Converts rgb array to hex
def rgb_to_hex(rgb):
    rgb = eval(rgb)
    r = rgb[0]
    g = rgb[1]
    b = rgb[2]
    return '#%02X%02X%02X' % (r,g,b)

# Sets the led strip color
def setcolor(rgb):
    pwm_r = "echo %d=%f > /dev/pi-blaster" % (gpio_r, (rgb[0] / 255.0) * (brightness / 100.0));
    os.system(pwm_r);
    pwm_g = "echo %d=%f > /dev/pi-blaster" % (gpio_g, (rgb[1] / 255.0) * (brightness / 100.0));
    os.system(pwm_g);
    pwm_b = "echo %d=%f > /dev/pi-blaster" % (gpio_b, (rgb[2] / 255.0) * (brightness / 100.0));
    os.system(pwm_b);
    time.sleep(delay / 1000.0);

# Helper to set the color with a hex value
def setcolor_hex(hexcolor):
    setcolor(hex_to_rgb(hexcolor));

''' Color manipulation '''
# Shifts the color from one value to the next
def shiftcolor(rgb1, rgb2):
    rdiff = (rgb1[0] - rgb2[0]) * 1.0;
    gdiff = (rgb1[1] - rgb2[1]) * 1.0;
    bdiff = (rgb1[2] - rgb2[2]) * 1.0;
    newcolor = rgb1;

    speedmult = 1000 / speed;

    for i in range(0, speedmult, 1):
        newcolor = int(rgb1[0] - ((rdiff / speedmult) * i)), int(rgb1[1] - ((gdiff / speedmult) * i)), int(rgb1[2] - ((bdiff / speedmult) * i));
        setcolor(newcolor);

# Shifts the color in hex
def shiftcolor_hex(hex1, hex2):
    shiftcolor(hex_to_rgb(hex1), hex_to_rgb(hex2));

''' Modes '''
# Flashes the color on and off
def flash(hexcolor):
    setcolor_hex(hexcolor);
    time.sleep(10 / speed);
    setcolor_hex("0000");
    time.sleep(10 / speed);

# Flashes between the colors in the colors array
def strobe(colors):
    for i in range(len(colors)):
        setcolor_hex(colors[i]);
        time.sleep(10 / speed);

# Sigle color breathe mode
def breathe(hexcolor):
    shiftcolor_hex(hexcolor, "0000");
    shiftcolor_hex("0000", hexcolor);

# Multi color breathe mode
def multi_breathe(colors):
    for i in range(len(colors)):
        shiftcolor_hex("0000", colors[i]);
        shiftcolor_hex(colors[i], "0000");

# Cycles smoothly between the colors in the colors array
def cycle(colors):
    for i in range(len(colors)):
        if(i < (len(colors) - 1)):
            shiftcolor_hex(colors[i], colors[i + 1]);
        else:
            shiftcolor_hex(colors[i], colors[0]);

''' Main program '''
setcolor_hex("000000");

print("Small demo of the Raspberry PI");
print("RGB LED strip controller I made");
print("");
time.sleep(2);

print("Single color flash");
flash(color);
flash(color);
print("Strobe");
strobe(colors2);
print("Single color breathe");
breathe(color);
breathe(color);
print("Multi color breathe");
multi_breathe(colors2);
print("Rainbow color cycle");
cycle(colors2);

while True:
    cycle(colors2);





A small demo of the different modes. Sorry about the quality and the camera kept auto-adjusting..
I had to RMA my GPU so that's why there is a 8-pin power cable floating and I ran the 6-pin cable to my old GPU so that I can easily remove it when I get the replacement.











The software PWM frequency is only 100Hz, so it creates an interesting effect on the fans at low brightness:


----------



## RockeyDA

this slow and steady project you might remember is getting some progress.
also i cus in my day to day speaking, of that offends you mute video or dont watch it at all.


----------



## kithylin

Does this belong here?



Bought a Asus P5E3 Premium [email protected] motherboard off ebay for $40, then went and bought a box of core2duo 6MB wolfdale chips for another $30 for 45 chips. Temporary 2x120mm radiator and pump from a spare system and about 2ft either way of tubing to a waterblock for temporary overclocking. Haven't killed any chips yet but did manage to find one that could take 2.1v vcore and only run about 80c - 85c in benchmarks under water, 5.2 ghz is the best I've got so far. Still got more chips to play with when I get time for it.

Temporary setup on a table because it's easier to swap parts in a setup like this. The whiteness in the lines when I took this photo is air bubbles, had just rebuilt the loop and didn't get the air bled out yet.

Seasonic 1KW Platinum power supply down there and testing it with a EVGA GTX-260 Classified card. 4x1GB DDR3-1066-ECC chips (this board supports ECC), clocked currently at 1588 Mhz @ 1.95v, I have 6 sets of 4 of these ram sticks.. dirt cheap today I think they're like $2/stick or less on ebay. It's fun playing with overclocking these chips today because they're so damn cheap.


----------



## haha216

Not actually that ghetto, after looking at some complete states on this thread... Some of you should be ashamed


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> Not actually that ghetto, after looking at some complete states on this thread... Some of you should be ashamed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


just start ducttapeing things, duct tape is ghetto on a roll. i wonder if its ghetto to use contractors tape or 500mph tape as both of thoes are expensive versions of ductape. my self i stick with rustolium and Trex tape depending on the job.


----------



## Chargeit

I found videos of homemade ice chest coolers online and figured I'd test out making a smaller version. Seems to work pretty well. Right now I have ice cubes in it but I plan on freezing water in it instead. I don't think these ice cubes will last long.

Luckily I do have ac but still a quick and fun project.

Used,
80mm USB powered fan
A container from my local Chinese restaurant
A top from coffee cream
Some ice from the freezer covered in salt





*And no, I wouldn't recommend something on this small of a scale to be an ac replacement. I also wouldn't recommend running out and spending money on this. I just already had the supplies and tools to do it.

Froze some water in the container. This should last a while. =D


----------



## RockeyDA

i have a couple of op coming projects im working on and 1 is ghetto and pointless. i have removed the yoke from a crt and turned down the second grid voltage to avid burning then slid on a diffrent yoke not compatible with the set. that yoke is going to go to the left and right channel of a 2ohm stable amp. im gonna try using a function generator on on channel with a sawtooth and a test singal on other and see if it can be adjusted as a not horrible ghetto scope. if so i should be limited by the max frew of my function generator which is 100hkz witch would be quite horrible for a scope but a interesting project either way.

ita gonna take me a bit to get to as i plan on repairing a amber monitor before i get to it.


----------



## Unknownm

hi readers!

This pc is completely free! the i7 - mobo - ram - hdd was from my step moms office where they just threw away Ivy-bridge working units (she grabbed one for me knowing I collect). The Case - PSU is from uncles place originally had p4 system inside which is gutted and replaced with that i7.

I could of kept the original Dell case that came with the system but I threw it out as at the time I wanted open case. Now to help a friend out I made this

Cost: $0

This is gonna replace his Wii u for everyday tasks


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> hi readers!
> 
> This pc is completely free! the i7 - mobo - ram - hdd was from my step moms office where they just threw away Ivy-bridge working units (she grabbed one for me knowing I collect). The Case - PSU is from uncles place originally had p4 system inside which is gutted and replaced with that i7.
> 
> I could of kept the original Dell case that came with the system but I threw it out as at the time I wanted open case. Now to help a friend out I made this
> 
> Cost: $0
> 
> This is gonna replace his Wii u for everyday tasks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! That's awesome! It's really hard to beat free.... I think your buddy is going to be stoked about this.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> hi readers!
> 
> This pc is completely free! the i7 - mobo - ram - hdd was from my step moms office where they just threw away Ivy-bridge working units (she grabbed one for me knowing I collect). The Case - PSU is from uncles place originally had p4 system inside which is gutted and replaced with that i7.
> 
> I could of kept the original Dell case that came with the system but I threw it out as at the time I wanted open case. Now to help a friend out I made this
> 
> Cost: $0
> 
> This is gonna replace his Wii u for everyday tasks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! That's awesome! It's really hard to beat free.... I think your buddy is going to be stoked about this.
Click to expand...

we can get him to play some basic steam games. HL2 - CSS maybe CSGO and lots of emulators


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> we can get him to play some basic steam games. HL2 - CSS maybe CSGO and lots of emulators


YESS!!! I love my emulators. Sometimes you just wanna go back to the old days. I was just playing some "Turtles in Time" and "The Punisher" a couple days ago. One of the best parts is how little space most of them take up - I have 794 SNES games, and they only take up 657MB.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> YESS!!! I love my emulators. Sometimes you just wanna go back to the old days. I was just playing some "Turtles in Time" and "The Punisher" a couple days ago. One of the best parts is how little space most of them take up - I have 794 SNES games, and they only take up 657MB.


Oh hell,




I disassembled the top one for space but the bottom one is stored behind my sofa. The top one used a Raspberry pi3 and the bottom is a Jamma 60-in-1.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Oh hell,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I disassembled the top one for space but the bottom one is stored behind my sofa. The top one used a Raspberry pi3 and the bottom is a Jamma 60-in-1.


Very nice! That's a nice little personal arcade machine - way more comfortable than having to stand.







That bottom one reminds me, a local sandwich shop still has the tabletop Pac-Man in their dining room. Brings back memories....


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Very nice! That's a nice little personal arcade machine - way more comfortable than having to stand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That bottom one reminds me, a local sandwich shop still has the tabletop Pac-Man in their dining room. Brings back memories....


Thanks!

Yeah the top one worked great but took up a lot of space so I pulled the hardware out of it and stored it. Also I like my raspberry pi 3, but, I really started feeling like I was just using a fancy computer after a few weeks.

I really like the bottom one. Being jamma it's basically an arcade. I could of set it up to take quarters had I wanted. Only problem is no where to put it. I had it on saw horses which worked great but looked bad. Really gave me that nostalgia hit playing it though.

Both of them were fun projects and one of these days I want to make wine barrel cocktail arcade. All I need is a wine barrel and I'm on it. Not easy to find here in the eastern us.


----------



## DR4G00N

@Unknownm
How did you manage to get that X1950 working in Win 7? I would like to know as I cannot find any dirvers that will work.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Yeah the top one worked great but took up a lot of space so I pulled the hardware out of it and stored it. Also I like my raspberry pi 3, but, I really started feeling like I was just using a fancy computer after a few weeks.
> 
> I really like the bottom one. Being jamma it's basically an arcade. I could of set it up to take quarters had I wanted. Only problem is no where to put it. I had it on saw horses which worked great but looked bad. Really gave me that nostalgia hit playing it though.
> 
> Both of them were fun projects and one of these days I want to make wine barrel cocktail arcade. All I need is a wine barrel and I'm on it. Not easy to find here in the eastern us.


I can see that. It looks like it would definitely eat up some space. That is certainly the issue with stuff like this - where to put it? Not everyone has space for a "dedicated gaming room/area". Very cool stuff to have though.

I did a little bit of searching for barrels, and it kinda looks like most of the ones I saw are here in Cali. That's a bit of a bummer.... Though, I'll try to keep the barrels in mind when I'm just looking up random things online.... I enjoy having things to search for, and can't always think of enough things myself. Also, I'd love to see what happens to the barrel.


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> @Unknownm
> How did you manage to get that X1950 working in Win 7? I would like to know as I cannot find any dirvers that will work.


THESE (64-bit) maybe you can find 32-bit alternative.

Try finding BETA 10.2


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I can see that. It looks like it would definitely eat up some space. That is certainly the issue with stuff like this - where to put it? Not everyone has space for a "dedicated gaming room/area". Very cool stuff to have though.
> 
> I did a little bit of searching for barrels, and it kinda looks like most of the ones I saw are here in Cali. That's a bit of a bummer.... Though, I'll try to keep the barrels in mind when I'm just looking up random things online.... I enjoy having things to search for, and can't always think of enough things myself. Also, I'd love to see what happens to the barrel.


I've got a wall in my computer room that kind of functions as the flavor the month. A few years back it was painting miniatures for table top, Up there it was an arcade, right now my raspberry pi 3 is hooked up with a monitor and it's functioning as a catch all for the hardware I'm switching out of my rig.

That's what I noticed. All the barrels I found were in the west. I'm sure sooner or later I'll see one. Not in a huge rush though because the memory of me spending a fair bit on those projects are still fresh in my ol'ladys mind.









Here, this is what I want to make,

http://nerdapproved.com/gaming/a-custom-donkey-kong-arcade-table-made-from-a-wine-barrel/

****Not my Build****


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> THESE (64-bit) maybe you can find 32-bit alternative.
> 
> Try finding BETA 10.2


Hmm, I tried those once before but it would not run any 3d programs (dx9 and older) at all. Oh well, I'll just have to use vista instead I guess.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I've got a wall in my computer room that kind of functions as the flavor the month. A few years back it was painting miniatures for table top, Up there it was an arcade, right now my raspberry pi 3 is hooked up with a monitor and it's functioning as a catch all for the hardware I'm switching out of my rig.
> 
> That's what I noticed. All the barrels I found were in the west. I'm sure sooner or later I'll see one. Not in a huge rush though because the memory of me spending a fair bit on those projects are still fresh in my ol'ladys mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here, this is what I want to make,
> 
> http://nerdapproved.com/gaming/a-custom-donkey-kong-arcade-table-made-from-a-wine-barrel/
> 
> ****Not my Build****
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! "The Flavor of the Month" or "Now Featuring" area.... Ah, I see. My girl was ok with me upgrading my PC, until she bought me a 1070, and saw how much the parts I choose could cost.







In retrospect, it might have been better to just wait until I bought the card myself. Hehehe.... Now I mention wanting to do something to my PC, and the first question is, "So how much is that going to cost?" So cheap upgrades for now, until I can really justify more major upgrades.

That wine barrel arcade would be awesome. Even if it's not currently being used for the arcade portion, it still makes a nice end-table.

By the way, what state are you in?


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Hmm, I tried those once before but it would not run any 3d programs (dx9 and older) at all. Oh well, I'll just have to use vista instead I guess.


One thing with those drivers is I always have to apply 3d overclock with a hotkey because any resolution change or switch 2d to 3d (or back) will revert back to stock clocks.

What do you mean no 3d program will run. Any errors? blank screen? restart.. you might be able to figure out what the issue is , as 10.2 drivers never gave me problems in windows 7


----------



## RockeyDA

i managed to fix that monitor i was talking about the same day i got it and that was on a work day. thats impressive as i started out chasing wrong solution to problem.




hopefully this weekend i can get around to the other project i mentioned.


----------



## Ph42oN

Hard drive mounting to fit 360 rad.

Ghetto reservoir and another hard drive.


----------



## Pawelr98

Who needs batteries ?

~13VAC transformer,rectifier,25V 2500uF capacitor, two ITT ZX5.6 zener diodes (5.6V 12.5W) in series (creating effectively 11.2V zener diode) and 47Ohm resistor.

Inside the multimeter there's 7.5V zener diode along with resistors.
Enough to run this multimeter reliably.
I plan to adapt more of my battery-powered equipment to this power source.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pawelr98*
> 
> [IMG
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3104311/width/500/height/1000[/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs batteries ?
> 
> ~13VAC transformer,rectifier,25V 2500uF capacitor, two ITT ZX5.6 zener diodes (5.6V 12.5W) in series (creating effectively 11.2V zener diode) and 47Ohm resistor.
> 
> Inside the multimeter there's 7.5V zener diode along with resistors.
> Enough to run this multimeter reliably.
> I plan to adapt more of my battery-powered equipment to this power source.


DAMN, that meter dose not run on 2 AA batteries? i actually have a similar meter but i never wore the battery down as its a POS and the test leads failed on it so i use my 20$ Walmart DMM witch has beep on diode test.


----------



## Pawelr98

It runs on 9V battery.

I do have plenty of LR6 cells (AA).

As an alternative I use UM3a analog meter from 1970.








By default this meter it uses half of 2R10 cell. It's basically two 1.5V cells wrapped in a single package.

You cannot purchase single R10 cell, you purchase 2R10 cell (3V, rather rare) and split it into two 1.5V cells.
Soldered LR6 cell holder directly to default terminals.

This meter saved me countless times because only ohmmeter requires battery.
Ammeter/voltmeter run without it.

Design is quite old. It uses special copper-oxide rectifier for measurement of AC voltage/current.
It's actually better for measuring equipment because it has lower voltage drop compared to selenium rectifier(popular in the same era).

Meters from same series are still used in many technical highschools or technical universities.

During electronics laboratories(I study automatics) the guy brought us UM4b multimeter.
Pretty much same age.

The zener based stabilised power supply has pretty low ripple.
5mV


Double zener stabiliser is even more stable.
In this case meter is powered this way.

This power supply gives stabilised voltage of around 11.2V, then a resistor + 7.5V zener diode inside meter itself.
During metrology lectures such method was described as very stable power supply for measurement usage or voltage reference.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Tweeter blew on my door speakers, so I replaced it, and I forgot to take a pic of the front. Just imagine the silver thing on the black thing.


----------



## Master__Shake

quick and dirty PC case for an ITX board i have run off of a DC to DC power supply that is powered by an old XBOX 360 PSU


----------



## NKrader

LOL.. quick and dirty ITX motherboard tray, this is my system currently as it runs lol.


----------



## kevin7898

Crusty


----------



## 222Panther222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master__Shake*
> 
> quick and dirty PC case for an ITX board i have run off of a DC to DC power supply that is powered by an old XBOX 360 PSU
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Good ol xbox 360 power brick are still useful to this day lol, i power a car amplifier with it for my polk psw125.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> Good ol xbox 360 power brick are still useful to this day lol, i power a car amplifier with it for my polk psw125.


you know i have a friend who bought a 1000w computer psu for running a car amp in home. did not last long before he moved to a proper 14.4v 100a psu.


----------



## Unknownm

My liquid ultra pro came in by mail today. I applied some on this non-overheating intel t2300


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> My liquid ultra pro came in by mail today. I applied some on this non-overheating intel t2300


Temp results before and after?


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> My liquid ultra pro came in by mail today. I applied some on this non-overheating intel t2300
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temp results before and after?
Click to expand...

Not sure about that t2300 but

GOD DAMN this 4690k @ 4.5ghz core , 4Ghz uncore = 63c with prime95 FMA3

1.3vcore, 1.2v uncore, 1.8vinput, 1.8v DRAM, 1.2v SA, 1.1v DA IO.

last run with same settings was 96c and that was AS5


----------



## RockeyDA

im building my self a 4whiller mower out of scrap mowers, if you watch first video turn it off when i hop on the barbie car as i cuss alot at that point.








this thing is gonna change alot!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

That barbie car part reminded me of the time I went out with some friends in the middle of the night for some ******* sledding (at least that's what they called it). We tied a sled to the back of a car and drove around the park with it. One guy flipped off of it but luckily didn't get hurt. Doing 40+ on a kiddie sled isn't safe fyi. Cops shown up eventually but were kind enough to let us go without a fuss.

On the 1000W PSU + car amp. Most audio is rated for average draw, so 1000W woofer + amp will peak well over 1000W. I use a 300 or 400w PC power supply to test audio stuff but I keep the volume low. No issues and I've been using it off and on for a few years.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> That barbie car part reminded me of the time I went out with some friends in the middle of the night for some ******* sledding (at least that's what they called it). We tied a sled to the back of a car and drove around the park with it. One guy flipped off of it but luckily didn't get hurt. Doing 40+ on a kiddie sled isn't safe fyi. Cops shown up eventually but were kind enough to let us go without a fuss.
> 
> On the 1000W PSU + car amp. Most audio is rated for average draw, so 1000W woofer + amp will peak well over 1000W. I use a 300 or 400w PC power supply to test audio stuff but I keep the volume low. No issues and I've been using it off and on for a few years.


i do ******* sledding every winter, go to abandoned place like old driven theater with a truck or 4wheeler or both, wear couple layers of clothes and impact gloves and a painball/gas mask and have the driver do donuts and see what it takes before you let go of rope, the sled part never last long, then you just bouncing off the ground. surprisingly i have never gotten hurt doing this while i have just using a sled and a steep hill. well i think on a 4 whiller i got flung into a tree, that hurt, but not enough for me to call it quits.

as far as the amp thing goes, yeah it works but it cripples the amp, my amp is crippled by a 14.4v psu thats 100amp that should mean 1440watts but there is some voltage drop and my amp i think has 9% energy loss at 1ohm. my best clean power out of my amp is around 1024 watts. that amp is supposed to be able to do 1500wrms under poor conditions. also powersupply causes dip in line voltage by around 5v so all the lights get dimmer in the house on bassy songs.


----------



## Nukemaster

So my HDPVR power supply fails(again).

In steps the 2.50 amazon dc-dc converter(with some extra cooling).


I know these things kill capacitors. The last time I just tossed in a cap from an old cordless phone base. Honestly lasted longer than I thought it would.

No cap small enough. Closest thing I have is this rubycon, but it was rules out last time since it was too tall.


What to do?

I had an old dead wallwart switcher. I guess I can just gut it and stick this board into that one. It actually fit pretty well.
I Would of liked it a different way, but the short wires would not have that.

Good as new. For now.....


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Waterblock didn't have enough pressure to keep it in place, so I stuck an expired gift card under the backplate. I might just make my own and use screws and springs.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> Waterblock didn't have enough pressure to keep it in place, so I stuck an expired gift card under the backplate. I might just make my own and use screws and springs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I had the same issue with my H100i. I just took the plastic washers off of the backplate, put one of the washers that came with the unit on each peg of the backplate, then put the plastic washers back on. Accomplishes the same result, but doesn't end up looking like you did anything to it at all.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I had the same issue with my H100i. I just took the plastic washers off of the backplate, put one of the washers that came with the unit on each peg of the backplate, then put the plastic washers back on. Accomplishes the same result, but doesn't end up looking like you did anything to it at all.


But... maybe the ghetto look is desired! Hahaaaaaa this thread is amazing.


----------



## spinFX

Used some silicon to fix one of those case-pass-thru connectors into a lid from a distilled water bottle to make it easier to flush loops. Just screw it into another fitting (preferably on a bit of flexible tube) that goes in near the top of the loop, lift the bottle up, and stab a hole in the bottom after a while so some air can get in. 4 litres of distilled through the loop in about 1 minute








Not sure how much pressure its putting on the hose connections (water comes out the bottom pretty fast) ... but seems fine.




Spoiler: other imgs


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> But... maybe the ghetto look is desired! Hahaaaaaa this thread is amazing.


Touché, very true.... Carry on then.


----------



## RockeyDA

so i got a second mower now, i got it running so me and one of my friends can compete on making the fastest offload mower!
i did not feel like dealing with the annoying plastic frame it would of had to take apart to i kicked it to pices before working on it.
this week i have learned to love PB Blaster!


----------



## chrisjames61

Cool video. I always loved Tecumseh horizontal shaft motors. That motor runs strong.


----------



## RockeyDA

my starter motor gear stripped out completely on Friday and im out of money for 2 weeks... no mower fun for a while.


----------



## SavantStrike

A tiny bit of ghetto. I used plumbing parts from Hone Depot when I ran out of fittings, and let's see if anyone can spot the other ghetto items.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> 
> 
> A tiny bit of ghetto. I used plumbing parts from Hone Depot when I ran out of fittings, and let's see if anyone can spot the other ghetto items.


Are those 1080's? or 1080 Ti's ?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> Are those 1080's? or 1080 Ti's ?


1080 TI's.

This isn't the best picture of the carnage. I'll need to post one zoomed in on my MCP50x. I had a case full of components and didn't feel like removing them so I just started resorting to zip ties.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> 1080 TI's.
> 
> This isn't the best picture of the carnage. I'll need to post one zoomed in on my MCP50x. I had a case full of components and didn't feel like removing them so I just started resorting to zip ties.


So what, you're tearing it down? or is this a build in progress?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> So what, you're tearing it down? or is this a build in progress?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> 
> 
> 1080 TI's.
> 
> I'm not sure that's a good picture of the ghetto rigging though.
> A tiny bit of ghetto. I used plumbing parts from Hone Depot when I ran out of fittings, and let's see if anyone can spot the other ghetto items.


In progress. I bought all new components for the first time in at least 15 years and I've already resorted to zip ties.

Most of my real ghetto stuff is gone already... I purged my old cases a few years back


----------



## RockeyDA

SO i made my self a ghetto caborator and it actually worked. i have a video on it here, i think i drop 2 F bombs in the video so if that bugs you mute it or dont watch it.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm. I think it will work.


So. Change of plans. On the left, the 9600, in the middle, a 2500K stock cooler minus the fan, and on the right an FX-4100 80mm fan. I swear I didn't do all three brands for comedic effect, that's just what I had that worked. Looking at it, should just about fit within the standard two slots.





I butchered the heatsink to get it to fit the pci port below. Didn't go as planned, but it works. It's just got some screws through the fins.



Because of the screws I had to add some spacers under the fan. So it's just over 2 slot form factor now. The fan was super-glued onto some nuts which were super-glued onto the heatsink.



Loud but effective. Idles at 41C, load is 51C in furmark. What an inefficiently idling chip. That is better cooling than stock though.


----------



## SavantStrike

I had that card once upon a time. I loved those red MSI boards. I should've ghettoed it like you did, mine ran a lot hotter.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> SO i made my self a ghetto caborator and it actually worked. i have a video on it here, i think i drop 2 F bombs in the video so if that bugs you mute it or dont watch it.


Fyi the opposite of running rich is running lean. And, why? Poe weed eater


----------



## RockeyDA

i wanted to preform an experiment, that weedeater has a bad crab, like 6 others i had, i pitied most of them out, going to destroy the 2 i kept.


----------



## whitrzac

When nothing goes to plan and you just say ___ it i want this working now.


----------



## jimmyhackers

heres some ghetto riggedness

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/jimmyhackers/media/IMAG04551_zpszed8j2wa.jpg.html


----------



## xenkw0n

Where's the front panel?









Is that a Dragon? Looks just like the inside of the steel version.


----------



## OldGearHead27

My first case (1993) had a small square indentation for a case badge. This build was mine from scratch and did not have a manufacturer badge, nor did I have an Intel 486 badge (I did try to find one). The empty square drove me nuts. When I got a new driver's license, I noticed that the photo was about the same size. Since then, I have used my old drivers license, student ID, Hewlett-Packard ID, or whatever photos as my case badges. My system creations get my face.


----------



## xenkw0n

Yes - with the door on this style case there's a little square indent for a badge;


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> Where's the front panel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a Dragon? Looks just like the inside of the steel version.


He posted it in another thread in the water cooling forum and several of us told him to put it in this thread for all to enjoy. He said the case came form an Alienware Aurora, so I think it is a Dragon. I really liked the Chenming Alienware cases.

Every time I see a Dragon I get nostalgic and miss mine. I kept it so long I stripped all the threads in the expansion card slots, and then some of them on the motherboard tray too. I used it for like 4 or 5 builds. I Dremeled off the front grille and attached 92mm Deltas instead of the stock 80mm slots, drilled and installed a pair of 120mm fans on the side panel over the cpu and GPU, modded and tweaked it as much as I could to keep it's cooling relevant, and it repaid me by letting me strip it's screws. RIP.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> He posted it in another thread in the water cooling forum and several of us told him to put it in this thread for all to enjoy. He said the case came form an Alienware Aurora, so I think it is a Dragon. I really liked the Chenming Alienware cases.
> 
> Every time I see a Dragon I get nostalgic and miss mine. I kept it so long I stripped all the threads in the expansion card slots, and then some of them on the motherboard tray too. I used it for like 4 or 5 builds. I Dremeled off the front grille and attached 92mm Deltas instead of the stock 80mm slots, drilled and installed a pair of 120mm fans on the side panel over the cpu and GPU, modded and tweaked it as much as I could to keep it's cooling relevant, and it repaid me by letting me strip it's screws. RIP.


That's awesome to hear. I have 2 Dragons that originally came from Alienwares, one from the late 90's with a p4 + geforce 3 Ti 500, the other was from 2001 with an AMD Athlon XP 1800+ and a Radeon 9700 Pro. This was when I was much younger before I started building/even knew about overclocking.

I originally rebuilt a computer with an x58 system in early 2009 using my first case and lent the other to a friend for a 2500k build shortly after. Since then a few systems have been in the second case (silver) and the original I have heavily modded similar to what you did for a shrine to the x58 system which runs as a media server. Its wild how the x58 platform is still completely viable. Got a 950 Pro running in it and everything.

Build log is in my sig if you want to see a Dragon that's still in use today... it sits in my living room ;-)


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> That's awesome to hear. I have 2 Dragons that originally came from Alienwares, one from the late 90's with a p4 + geforce 3 Ti 500, the other was from 2001 with an AMD Athlon XP 1800+ and a Radeon 9700 Pro. This was when I was much younger before I started building/even knew about overclocking.
> 
> I originally rebuilt a computer with an x58 system in early 2009 using my first case and lent the other to a friend for a 2500k build shortly after. Since then a few systems have been in the second case (silver) and the original I have heavily modded similar to what you did for a shrine to the x58 system which runs as a media server. Its wild how the x58 platform is still completely viable. Got a 950 Pro running in it and everything.
> 
> Build log is in my sig if you want to see a Dragon that's still in use today... it sits in my living room ;-)


Oh man, that just makes me want my old Dragon even more. I keep hoping one will turn up on craigslist for a song but so far no dice.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Oh man, that just makes me want my old Dragon even more. I keep hoping one will turn up on craigslist for a song but so far no dice.


One sold on Ebay for $50 used a couple weeks back. Though if you REALLY want one, Im pretty sure this canadian site still has a few *brand new* in a few different colors. It's the aluminum version with a side-panel window. The picture I posted with the marooon version was from them, 20$ + 30$ shipping.

Orioncomputer.ca

I had to email [email protected] and coordinate a way for them to send me a paypal request since their website couldnt calculate shipping to the U.S.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> One sold on Ebay for $50 used a couple weeks back. Though if you REALLY want one, Im pretty sure this canadian site still has a few *brand new* in a few different colors. It's the aluminum version with a side-panel window. The picture I posted with the marooon version was from them, 20$ + 30$ shipping.
> 
> Orioncomputer.ca
> 
> I had to email [email protected] and coordinate a way for them to send me a paypal request since their website couldnt calculate shipping to the U.S.


Out of stock









I'll have to keep watching the bay or craigslist.


----------



## RockeyDA

my ghetto 4 wheeler still has no starter but i have a way to start it, it gos fairly fast now, neer the end of the video got oil on the belt system killing my torqe.

as usual a bad language warning, epsecily when i first hop on the mower and it throws me in the seat more than expected.


----------



## chrisjames61

That open flywheel could mess you up bad.


----------



## Hello Man

Oh, this one is too good.

Need a rad on top of your case? OK!


Looks uguly? Make a hole!





That was a year or two ago. I'm too anal retentive now.


----------



## TONSCHUH

My actual setup after an upgrade and after I found out that my actual pump didn't cut it and after I installed temp. my first ever pump, which came with that case.

It's still running better than it looks: http://www.overclock.net/t/1360884/official-top-30-unigine-valley-benchmark-1-0/13360#post_26383019


----------



## RockeyDA

so i fixed some tension issues and got a new generic starter (that self destructed after 1 week) and i gained much more torqe and bigger whillies. in fact i almosted flipped my mower in the walmart parkinglot. to show off i gunned it and aprently i have more HP after warmup, i was standing up hugging the wheel and pressing the cluch trying to get the thing back down, it took me about 3 seconds and when my front end came down i slamed my left front wheel in to the curb, i got a steering wheel to the front, cracked and bent both my axel and frame in sevral placed. i was able to drive it home but could only turn right like 5deg. i also rupsherd my old fule line and ran out of gas a few door down from my house. also i boke one of my rollbar lights.

i had it all bent back and welded up, and fule line replaced the next day.

by sunday we had gotten some good rain and some good mud, i went to slam it in 4th gear and instead of moving i just herd a pop, i belive i snapped a tooth of my drive gear, tranny rebuild coming soon. in the mean time this is me trying to rip on it while its damaged. and thats basically how i drive the mower everywere, when i get a car it will be the same thing. also i think i need to fix the breaks, stopping at a stop sighn is almost impossible just using transmission and cluch.


----------



## RockeyDA

if you want more detal with less reading there thouogh videos on my channel as recent uploads.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

You're better off building a custom frame for that kind of riding, or at least reinforce that frame with some angle iron around the joins.


----------



## RockeyDA

threw the magic of cutting and welding i plan on welding cut up bits of scrap metal along parts of the frame to make it more rigied. also plan on building a ram bar and a skid plate. but i want to rebuild my tranny first.


----------



## swingarm

Have a magnifying lamp that wouldn't turn on any more, figured it was the on/off switch. Couldn't find a direct replacement but did find a Youtube video with an alternate fix involving replacing the one switch with two other switches. The author of the video really didn't like the design of the original switch. Did the fix but it just flickered and not turn on. After some more investigating found out the plug-in ballast was bad but couldn't find a direct replacement. Found a different ballast that would work with the lamp then bought a AC cord with a male end and on/off switch that would work with my new setup.








Oh, the PC in the background is a different story.


----------



## GoLDii3

I swear this is not mine found it on some forum i frequent


----------



## faizreds

Upgrade to Ryzen but not enough money to buy a case. So, I just used a box as temporary pc case.


----------



## ComradeCommie

I'd say fire-hazard but you have a good amount of fans.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeCommie*
> 
> I'd say fire-hazard but you have a good amount of fans.


The parts would have to get hot enough to melt solder before the box catches fire.


----------



## frostbite

Plenty of people use boxes,

I built my server in a box before I got the lian li case


----------



## S.M.

The PCI fan is zip tied to a painted deli-sliced ham container. Brought a 6600GT down 30 degrees.


----------



## Werne

I took these laptop pics a long time ago but being busy doesn't mix well with posting stuff on forums. Anyway...

Some 5-6 months ago I found a Toshiba Satellite A100-011 lying disassembled next to a dumpster, glanced at it quickly and saw it still had the CPU and graphics card installed and the power brick was lying under the dumpster so I grabbed the stuff. I figured if nothing else, I can always sell the CPU and power brick if they work.

After I got home and examined it more closely, I realized why it was trashed. Battery was burnt and deformed cause someone shorted it, the hard drive and optical drive were dead, both speakers were blown, touchpad flat cables had their contacts ripped off, both wifi antennas had their plugs torn off (luckily, one was still attached to the card), mobo's display connector had it's pins smashed in (from what I can see, guy tried to plug the connector in backwards), some of the buttons on the keyboard were missing (as well as the keyboard's flat cable lock on the mobo), the graphics card had purple lines on the external monitor, Bluetooth flat cable was, and still is, missing, one of the DDR2 slots had superglue all over the contacts, and it had a burn mark on the top part of the lid.

On the bright side, however, almost all parts of the outer casing were present (except for the hard drive lid), all the important bits were present and more or less working (2x512MB DDR2, C2D T5600, GeForce Go 7600, mobo itself) and the thing was actually posting with an external display, albeit it was artefacting like mad.

It was giving signs of life, even if it was acting like it'll die any second, that meant I can fix it (or at least have it die while trying).

First off, the stuff I didn't take any pics cause I got a crappy phone that couldn't focus on it properly...

The wifi antennas I "fixed" by soldering the cable from one of them to the connector that was present there (albeit only to one contact of the two, the other one is inside the plug so I'd have to tear it apart which I'm not willing to do), I connected some internal router antenna to the other one and soldered the other cable to it's connector. If I'm within 2m of the router, it works just fine, anything more and it craps out. I threw away the battery, I wanted to keep the battery case but heat wrecked it, it was literally crumbling when you touch it.

I also fixed the mobo's display connector. Ever tried straightening out a bunch of teeny tiny pins that make the ones on Ryzen look thick as hell with just two pin needles and a crappy kiddie toy magnifying glass? Let me tell you, it ain't easy. And the superglue from the RAM slot I removed by pouring a bottle of acetone on it and just cleaning it off later with a toothbrush.

Now for the stuff I did take pics of...


Spoiler: Repairing the graphics card



After straightening out all the display pins, internal display didn't budge and the external display gave me this "card is dying" image:



Where do all broken graphics cards go? Into the oven, of course!












I fished this oven out of a dumpster a while back, someone threw it away cause it had a fuse inside that blew and didn't want to heat, I jumped it and have been using the thing for baking graphics cards, RAM and the like. Since I don't have a tray small enough to put it in the oven I used the aluminum body of a dead hard drive as a tray.

Anyway, I just propped the card on a bit of aluminum foil and threw it in for 10m at 200C. The smell of fried electronics filled the room (which is good) and after I pulled it out, cooled it off and installed it:



It's alive!













Spoiler: Mounting the hard drive



I had an 80GB Hitachi Travelstar lying around so I put it in, it's 5400RPM 1st gen SATA so you can imagine how fast the thing is. Ah well, at least it works fine if I disregard those 12 bad sectors. Since the laptop lacked a HDD bay lid, which is what usually holds the HDD in place, I did this:



I crammed toilet paper in the back of it so it can't be unplugged then taped a squished cardboard tube from a toilet paper roll onto it with electrical tape so the drive gets propped by it and doesn't sag.





Spoiler: Repairing flat cables



They had no contacts at all on the tip, not even mangled ones, I had to cut the tip off the cable then sand down the insulation with P240 sandpaper (which is the finest sandpaper I had at the time, P400 is much better) and use some electrical tape on the back of it so that the ribbon is thick enough to be locked in place.



That went better than I expected, I figured P240 would damage the contacts too much but they turned out nicely. Contacts might look bad in some spots but as long as it works, I don't care.





Spoiler: The speakers



Both speakers on the thing were blown, not sure how exactly you manage to blow out speakers on a laptop but whatever. The right speakers I replaced with this random laptop speaker:



Just glued it in place with UHU contact glue, I'm ok with that so long as it holds. And the left one I replaced with this tablet speaker:



Sound isn't all that great, to be honest. The two speakers sound differently and the right one is louder than the left one, I needed to adjust the balance quite a bit to the left so my left ear doesn't sound neglected. Ah well, at least it makes sounds.





Spoiler: Mounting the keyboard



The flat cable's locking mechanism looked like this:



Yeah, it's gone, someone ripped it off. Fortunately, if you ever have the same problem, the cardboard backside of a Duracell BR2032 packaging is just the perfect thickness to lock the cable in place.

No after picture though, you can't actually see anything in it cause the flat cable covers everything.



For final assembly, I used UHU all-purpose glue. Surprisingly enough, the poor thing actually looks like a proper laptop once assembled:



That is, as long as you don't flip it over and find out that it's held together with glue, toilet paper and electrical tape.









I gave it to my dad so he can do his own paperwork, he's been using it for about 4 months now and says it works just fine. Now all that's left to do is pin-mod the T5600 to run on an 800MHz bus cause the clock speed is pretty low on this thing, 1.83GHz > 2.2GHz should be a nice jump in performance.

OCing the 7600 Go, however, is a problem since the thing doesn't even have a proper heatsink, all it has is a 0.3mm thick metal sheet (which gets attracted by a magnet, meaning it's not even aluminum/copper







) slapped on top of it and a spot-welded heatpipe on it which leads nowhere. Cooling on the GPU is so crappy the thing idles at around 60C and reaches 90C+ within a minute under load. I'll have to do something about that one of these days, been thinking about sticking a bunch of heatsinks on top of that metal sheet with 5760 but I don't know if it'll work.

I also have some other, newer stuff.


Spoiler: Like my ''external'' hard drive, for example





Can't afford a laptop for college (or a half-decent PC even) so this meant-to-be-a-HTPC will have to do. Under that roll of toilet paper is a 500GB WD Blue which I can't fit in the case cause I have no drill to make holes to screw it in, and it sits on three packs of tissues to reduce vibration to the desk. External HDD cases? Pfff, who needs those?

And just as an FYI, guys - Athlon 5350 is not a very good CPU for running AutoCAD or Visual Studio. It works but it's slow as hell.



And then there's this...


Spoiler: How to keep plastic bags closed the proper way



It's saturday which means the college restaurant is closed and I have to cook myself. The good thing is, I know how to cook. The bad thing is, I have no clothes pins to seal my bags of ingredients with. So...



Pliers and hair ties work wonders, seasoning is all closed up. But I only have one pair of pliers, how will I close my pasta? Well...




Thank god for ZIF-PGA.







I would've closed both the pasta and seasoning with the same pair of pliers, which I tried, but the two kept tipping over and falling off the shelf so as funny as it sounds, it was better to use a mobo.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S.M.*
> 
> The PCI fan is zip tied to a painted deli-sliced ham container. Brought a 6600GT down 30 degrees.


Hey what abit mobo is that?

I used to have an AN7 many years ago slightly different colour, such fun was had with it oc'ing a T'bred B 2600+


----------



## S.M.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Hey what abit mobo is that?
> 
> I used to have an AN7 many years ago slightly different colour, such fun was had with it oc'ing a T'bred B 2600+


Keen eye.

It is an AN7. I don't remember why I spent the extra money over the NF7, but I did.

This one ended up getting some BH-5 to 260FSB at 3.1V 2-2-2-5.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Werne*
> 
> I took these laptop pics a long time ago but being busy doesn't mix well with posting stuff on forums. Anyway...
> 
> Some 5-6 months ago I found a Toshiba Satellite A100-011 lying disassembled next to a dumpster, glanced at it quickly and saw it still had the CPU and graphics card installed and the power brick was lying under the dumpster so I grabbed the stuff. I figured if nothing else, I can always sell the CPU and power brick if they work.
> 
> After I got home and examined it more closely, I realized why it was trashed. Battery was burnt and deformed cause someone shorted it, the hard drive and optical drive were dead, both speakers were blown, touchpad flat cables had their contacts ripped off, both wifi antennas had their plugs torn off (luckily, one was still attached to the card), mobo's display connector had it's pins smashed in (from what I can see, guy tried to plug the connector in backwards), some of the buttons on the keyboard were missing (as well as the keyboard's flat cable lock on the mobo), the graphics card had purple lines on the external monitor, Bluetooth flat cable was, and still is, missing, one of the DDR2 slots had superglue all over the contacts, and it had a burn mark on the top part of the lid.
> 
> On the bright side, however, almost all parts of the outer casing were present (except for the hard drive lid), all the important bits were present and more or less working (2x512MB DDR2, C2D T5600, GeForce Go 7600, mobo itself) and the thing was actually posting with an external display, albeit it was artefacting like mad.
> 
> It was giving signs of life, even if it was acting like it'll die any second, that meant I can fix it (or at least have it die while trying).
> 
> First off, the stuff I didn't take any pics cause I got a crappy phone that couldn't focus on it properly...
> 
> The wifi antennas I "fixed" by soldering the cable from one of them to the connector that was present there (albeit only to one contact of the two, the other one is inside the plug so I'd have to tear it apart which I'm not willing to do), I connected some internal router antenna to the other one and soldered the other cable to it's connector. If I'm within 2m of the router, it works just fine, anything more and it craps out. I threw away the battery, I wanted to keep the battery case but heat wrecked it, it was literally crumbling when you touch it.
> 
> I also fixed the mobo's display connector. Ever tried straightening out a bunch of teeny tiny pins that make the ones on Ryzen look thick as hell with just two pin needles and a crappy kiddie toy magnifying glass? Let me tell you, it ain't easy. And the superglue from the RAM slot I removed by pouring a bottle of acetone on it and just cleaning it off later with a toothbrush.
> 
> Now for the stuff I did take pics of...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Repairing the graphics card
> 
> 
> 
> After straightening out all the display pins, internal display didn't budge and the external display gave me this "card is dying" image:
> 
> 
> 
> Where do all broken graphics cards go? Into the oven, of course!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fished this oven out of a dumpster a while back, someone threw it away cause it had a fuse inside that blew and didn't want to heat, I jumped it and have been using the thing for baking graphics cards, RAM and the like. Since I don't have a tray small enough to put it in the oven I used the aluminum body of a dead hard drive as a tray.
> 
> Anyway, I just propped the card on a bit of aluminum foil and threw it in for 10m at 200C. The smell of fried electronics filled the room (which is good) and after I pulled it out, cooled it off and installed it:
> 
> 
> 
> It's alive!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Mounting the hard drive
> 
> 
> 
> I had an 80GB Hitachi Travelstar lying around so I put it in, it's 5400RPM 1st gen SATA so you can imagine how fast the thing is. Ah well, at least it works fine if I disregard those 12 bad sectors. Since the laptop lacked a HDD bay lid, which is what usually holds the HDD in place, I did this:
> 
> 
> 
> I crammed toilet paper in the back of it so it can't be unplugged then taped a squished cardboard tube from a toilet paper roll onto it with electrical tape so the drive gets propped by it and doesn't sag.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Repairing flat cables
> 
> 
> 
> They had no contacts at all on the tip, not even mangled ones, I had to cut the tip off the cable then sand down the insulation with P240 sandpaper (which is the finest sandpaper I had at the time, P400 is much better) and use some electrical tape on the back of it so that the ribbon is thick enough to be locked in place.
> 
> 
> 
> That went better than I expected, I figured P240 would damage the contacts too much but they turned out nicely. Contacts might look bad in some spots but as long as it works, I don't care.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The speakers
> 
> 
> 
> Both speakers on the thing were blown, not sure how exactly you manage to blow out speakers on a laptop but whatever. The right speakers I replaced with this random laptop speaker:
> 
> 
> 
> Just glued it in place with UHU contact glue, I'm ok with that so long as it holds. And the left one I replaced with this tablet speaker:
> 
> 
> 
> Sound isn't all that great, to be honest. The two speakers sound differently and the right one is louder than the left one, I needed to adjust the balance quite a bit to the left so my left ear doesn't sound neglected. Ah well, at least it makes sounds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Mounting the keyboard
> 
> 
> 
> The flat cable's locking mechanism looked like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's gone, someone ripped it off. Fortunately, if you ever have the same problem, the cardboard backside of a Duracell BR2032 packaging is just the perfect thickness to lock the cable in place.
> 
> No after picture though, you can't actually see anything in it cause the flat cable covers everything.
> 
> 
> 
> For final assembly, I used UHU all-purpose glue. Surprisingly enough, the poor thing actually looks like a proper laptop once assembled:
> 
> 
> 
> That is, as long as you don't flip it over and find out that it's held together with glue, toilet paper and electrical tape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gave it to my dad so he can do his own paperwork, he's been using it for about 4 months now and says it works just fine. Now all that's left to do is pin-mod the T5600 to run on an 800MHz bus cause the clock speed is pretty low on this thing, 1.83GHz > 2.2GHz should be a nice jump in performance.
> 
> OCing the 7600 Go, however, is a problem since the thing doesn't even have a proper heatsink, all it has is a 0.3mm thick metal sheet (which gets attracted by a magnet, meaning it's not even aluminum/copper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) slapped on top of it and a spot-welded heatpipe on it which leads nowhere. Cooling on the GPU is so crappy the thing idles at around 60C and reaches 90C+ within a minute under load. I'll have to do something about that one of these days, been thinking about sticking a bunch of heatsinks on top of that metal sheet with 5760 but I don't know if it'll work.
> 
> I also have some other, newer stuff.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Like my ''external'' hard drive, for example
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't afford a laptop for college (or a half-decent PC even) so this meant-to-be-a-HTPC will have to do. Under that roll of toilet paper is a 500GB WD Blue which I can't fit in the case cause I have no drill to make holes to screw it in, and it sits on three packs of tissues to reduce vibration to the desk. External HDD cases? Pfff, who needs those?
> 
> And just as an FYI, guys - Athlon 5350 is not a very good CPU for running AutoCAD or Visual Studio. It works but it's slow as hell.
> 
> 
> 
> And then there's this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: How to keep plastic bags closed the proper way
> 
> 
> 
> It's saturday which means the college restaurant is closed and I have to cook myself. The good thing is, I know how to cook. The bad thing is, I have no clothes pins to seal my bags of ingredients with. So...
> 
> 
> 
> Pliers and hair ties work wonders, seasoning is all closed up. But I only have one pair of pliers, how will I close my pasta? Well...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank god for ZIF-PGA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would've closed both the pasta and seasoning with the same pair of pliers, which I tried, but the two kept tipping over and falling off the shelf so as funny as it sounds, it was better to use a mobo.


You sir are a ghetto master. Well done. Also living the college life right.


----------



## Unknownm

The foam that holds the middle cone fell off which resulted in no bass. Good old duct tape fixes this problem. Finally I hear bass again










Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## 222Panther222

I think that sound system has earned it's retirement









I was playing with Nvidia Ansel then i looked at my north bridge temp 75c, i zip tied a old Asus cpu fan that blow on it, it lowered the temp by about 10c. For a little cpu fan that thing is no joke, it reach 4400rpm and displace a ton of air, it remind me of an ultra kaze.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> I think that sound system has earned it's retirement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Why retire something that still works?


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> The foam that holds the middle cone fell off which resulted in no bass. Good old duct tape fixes this problem. Finally I hear bass again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


Altec Lansing 5100s


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S.M.*
> 
> The PCI fan is zip tied to a painted deli-sliced ham container. Brought a 6600GT down 30 degrees.


Nice... To piggyback off of the other guy who called out the motherboard, that case catches my eye. Looks like an old Dragon that you painted black... Those fan holders in the back used to be an off-purple, correct?

I have a couple of them... The one in my signature is my first Dragon case (1999) and I have since modded it to hell and back to keep it up-to-date.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Why retire something that still works?











We are retired .. and we still work.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S.M.*
> 
> Keen eye.
> 
> It is an AN7. I don't remember why I spent the extra money over the NF7, but I did.
> 
> This one ended up getting some BH-5 to 260FSB at 3.1V 2-2-2-5.


Nice, Mine was more brown not mustard like the nf7 I guess it was different revisions of the pcb

I chose the an7 over the nf7 because it was newer and was easier to oc


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I'm upgrading to an NVMe SSD but I ran out of PCIe slots. I figured my capture card didn't need a lot of bandwidth so I got a PCI to PCIe adapter, long screw and an aluminum rod.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> I'm upgrading to an NVMe SSD but I ran out of PCIe slots. I figured my capture card didn't need a lot of bandwidth so I got a PCI to PCIe adapter, long screw and an aluminum rod.


Depends on the capture card.. if it's 1080p @ 60 FPS then it probably does need the PCIE bandwidth.... guess you'll find out right quick when you try to record with it though.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> Depends on the capture card.. if it's 1080p @ 60 FPS then it probably does need the PCIE bandwidth.... guess you'll find out right quick when you try to record with it though.


It's S-video. I don't think it can do more than 480p


----------



## S.M.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> Nice... To piggyback off of the other guy who called out the motherboard, that case catches my eye. Looks like an old Dragon that you painted black... Those fan holders in the back used to be an off-purple, correct?
> 
> I have a couple of them... The one in my signature is my first Dragon case (1999) and I have since modded it to hell and back to keep it up-to-date.


Yeah it's a Chieftech Dragon. I painted the inside with plasti-dip, but I only had 1 can LOL. It looked fine once the side panel was put on. This was back when everyone claimed plasti-dip provided sound reduction properties. That myth is busted. I don't recommend it. Notice the OG OC.net applique.


----------



## Pawelr98

A radio









AA144 germanium diode as detector

FiiO E07K amplifies audio signal so that I can use normal headphones.

Transformer unneeded. Works OK without it.
Otherwise provides separation which may be useful for some amplifiers.

1000KW long-wave transmitter is nearby so reception is very good.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S.M.*
> 
> Yeah it's a Chieftech Dragon. I painted the inside with plasti-dip, but I only had 1 can LOL. It looked fine once the side panel was put on. This was back when everyone claimed plasti-dip provided sound reduction properties. That myth is busted. I don't recommend it. Notice the OG OC.net applique.


+1 on the applique, I had the original one on an old build too


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> The foam that holds the middle cone fell off which resulted in no bass. Good old duct tape fixes this problem. Finally I hear bass again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Altec Lansing 5100s
Click to expand...

yes dad bought them early 2000's than got put in storage 2007 and been sitting until now. Still sounds alright but ghetto


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S.M.*
> 
> Yeah it's a Chieftech Dragon. I painted the inside with plasti-dip, but I only had 1 can LOL. It looked fine once the side panel was put on. This was back when everyone claimed plasti-dip provided sound reduction properties. That myth is busted. I don't recommend it. Notice the OG OC.net applique.


Looks good even if it doesn't sound-dampen.

I had some runs when I used spraypaint... Ah well, I was teaching myself - First time I ever used spraypaint.




Not trying to jack the thread... I did used to have a GTX 285 in this case with an aftermarket Arctic Accelero Extreme cooler - I don't have any pictures but I needed to use zip-ties on some of the memory heatsinks to keep them there since the provided pads didn't work well enough.


----------



## Unknownm

QX9300 + Liquid Ultra Pro came in at the same time. Current laptop is P8700 CPU (2cores) @ 2.53Ghz and after doing research there was 50/50 chance that qx9300 wouldn't work. Needs more ram , SSD or mSD to sata to RAID0 and new 150w power adapter (100w gets too hot).


----------



## Ph42oN

Chinese waterblock mounted with old amd stock cooler mount and ziptie. Ryzen 1600X at 4.1GHz maxed 60c on ibt avx.


----------



## 222Panther222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> QX9300 + Liquid Ultra Pro came in at the same time. Current laptop is P8700 CPU (2cores) @ 2.53Ghz and after doing research there was 50/50 chance that qx9300 wouldn't work. Needs more ram , SSD or mSD to sata to RAID0 and new 150w power adapter (100w gets too hot).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a awesome upgrade, what model of laptop is it?


----------



## cdoublejj

The double sided adhesive holds so well, it's not really that ghetto. the fans are spaced out far enough drafting shouldn't be too bad either. it's also pretty darned quite, even when recording podcasts.


----------



## cptnighthawk666

Modified my new pc with a mini 7 inch dual monitor ....it works excellent...I still have some work I gotta do to seal up a small hole under the panel. .. cable managed all the wires in the proper holes in the back of the case and cut a small hole in the back i/o erea for the hdmi cord to pass through discretely. ...all this beast needs now is custom hard line watercooling and it will be at peace.....specs-
Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D ATX
CPU: Intel i7 4970K (4.0/4.4 GHZ, 4 core/8 thread)
CPU cooler: Corsair H110 280mm Liquid Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z97 Gaming 7
Ram: 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR3, w/ optional light bar kit
PSU: Corsair AX760 [80 Plus platinum rated], w/ Custom para-cord sleeved cables
GPU: ASUS GTX 1080 Strix Aura RGB
Fans: 7 Thermaltake Riing RGB fans w/ controllers ( 2-120mm , 5-140mm )
OS: Windows 10 Pro


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> QX9300 + Liquid Ultra Pro came in at the same time. Current laptop is P8700 CPU (2cores) @ 2.53Ghz and after doing research there was 50/50 chance that qx9300 wouldn't work. Needs more ram , SSD or mSD to sata to RAID0 and new 150w power adapter (100w gets too hot).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a awesome upgrade, what model of laptop is it?
Click to expand...

The laptop in my signature. Tapatalk doesn't show it.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Unknownm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unknownm*
> 
> QX9300 + Liquid Ultra Pro came in at the same time. Current laptop is P8700 CPU (2cores) @ 2.53Ghz and after doing research there was 50/50 chance that qx9300 wouldn't work. Needs more ram , SSD or mSD to sata to RAID0 and new 150w power adapter (100w gets too hot).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a awesome upgrade, what model of laptop is it?
Click to expand...

update


----------



## spinFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoLDii3*
> 
> I swear this is not mine found it on some forum i frequent


trying to spot the ghettoness here, what is it?


----------



## frostbite

Probably the 70mm fan on the gfx card, not really ghetto at all.

and deffinately cant be the xfi


----------



## masterX244

Tape-connected fan on lower card


----------



## RockeyDA

so my min mower is going to take alot of effort to repair it and keep it fixed, so now i have bought a seoncd one for 100$ to play arround with, i have installed a ghetto gaspedal and made an exaust from scraps.... this is my home maid exuast.


----------



## frostbite

That's nearly as bad as the bloke who put a v8 in a mower


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> That's nearly as bad as the bloke who put a v8 in a mower


just imagen how that would sound with my twin and a glass pack? i have the glass pack, the twin sounded so much better as open manafold

open manafold on the single with some clips of the twin to compare



this some what brings out what an exust system would sound like, but the glaspack is only on 1 cilinder, its on the wrong end of the pipe, and most of the pipe is to small in diamitor.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> just imagen how that would sound with my twin and a glass pack? i have the glass pack, the twin sounded so much better as open manafold
> 
> open manafold on the single with some clips of the twin to compare
> 
> 
> 
> this some what brings out what an exust system would sound like, but the glaspack is only on 1 cilinder, its on the wrong end of the pipe, and most of the pipe is to small in diamitor.


You sound exactly like how I imagined you would.


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> You sound exactly like how I imagined you would.


not to sure what that means? way i talk? pitch of my voice?


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> not to sure what that means? way i talk? pitch of my voice?


The accent.

When I think of people modifying lawnmowers (for racing), I think of the south eastern US accent. I don't mean it in a bad way or anything


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> The accent.
> 
> When I think of people modifying lawnmowers (for racing), I think of the south eastern US accent. I don't mean it in a bad way or anything


well i grew up speaking Cincinnati Ebonics but when i was 11 i moved up to central PA and over time my accent changed to my new area, having both ******* and uppity friends all the stuff kinda blended in the way i talk but i still use Cincinnati words.
i would probably sound more hood but when i moved in with my dad he hated the way i talked so bad (its a racist thing) that he had me thrown in speech classes for all of middle school.
some times when im really pissed the Ebonics come back out.


----------



## lexer

Rockey have you tried a Boost bottle on a 2 stroke engine ? I implemented one on my daily bike and if is well calculated, make a noticeable improve on the throttle response and low end torque,


----------



## RockeyDA

that needs a little before and after, and no, i havent had my motor bike running in a long time, i lost parts to orginal carb, spent money on a suposed racing carb and jetted it for my motor... and i never got the thing to run with the new carb. have not wanted to put more money into it.


----------



## Master__Shake

a sad day when my eco c240 leaked.

it's ok it didn't fit on my am4 motherboard anyway.



so i modded my corsair h55 that did fit and gave it the coolit's 240mm rad.


----------



## cdoublejj

To the lathe it whent.





39mm head modified for 44mm


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> To the lathe it whent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 39mm head modified for 44mm


is that the head for some strange 2 stroke?


----------



## xenkw0n

Since we seem to be on the topic of cooling and metal mods... I'm working on a way to get an old aftermarket GTX 285 cooler to fit on a GTX 970. The mounting holes on the PCB for the GPU to mount to a bracket + the mounting holes for the bracket to mount to the heatsink do not line up. The heatsink itself also has lips that were meant to help line up the old mounting bracket but it forced me to cut away the inside of the newer one. Got pretty close to the bracket being turned into two pieces, which wouldn't work. Drill press and cutting wheel worked quite well and I'm very excited for how this project has turned out so far. The bracket fits perfectly now.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> is that the head for some strange 2 stroke?


Honda style/type Chinese, 4 stroke over head cam, the 2 holes are for the valves. and the ring for the jaws of the lathe to grab on to.


----------



## frostbite

I had a Chinese gy6, I never once serviced it and it ran like a champ


----------



## lexer

In my country there is a kart league that uses 150cc chinese push-rod engines (honda copy) with ported head, cam and other mods makes around 23hp to the flywheel.


----------



## swingarm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I had a Chinese gy6, I never once serviced it and it ran like a champ


I was going to guess that also. I actually have one atm but it's been modified.


----------



## RockeyDA

this trans axle case, its sad, but im hoping it will be what saves my current trans axle.

a c clip that came off when my left axle gear twisted off, i forgot to look for it on repairs... with it floating around trans axle exploded.



using my chop saw and JB weld i have patched up the broken bits. the trans axle off the current tractor was to far gone.

it almost worked but bull gear is different, so i have to get one that fits that case.


----------



## RockeyDA

how it ran with a swapped pulleys, tranny fluid replacing grease, and a locked diff rental



now it has no rear end till i get payed.


----------



## cdoublejj

.


----------



## frostbite

I didn't realise the M.2 drive got so hot, It came with an heatspreader but its like a soda can.

I found some old ddr ramsinks for diy-ness, I'll get some better looking ones later



Quite possibly the tall bga sinks for gfx cards, and fix them directly to the chips
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Enzotech-MOS-C10-Passive-Mosfet-Heatsinks_4366.html


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I didn't realise the M.2 drive got so hot, It came with an heatspreader but its like a soda can.
> 
> I found some old ddr ramsinks for diy-ness, I'll get some better looking ones later
> 
> 
> 
> Quite possibly the tall bga sinks for gfx cards, and fix them directly to the chips
> http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Enzotech-MOS-C10-Passive-Mosfet-Heatsinks_4366.html


how'd the temps do after?


----------



## frostbite

After a bench the temps sat at 55*C, with the ram sinks the temps slowly decreased to 40*C

Air cooling would help a lot more as it would be in the exhaust path. I suppose the end result is a ton of heat being the trade off for the speed gained


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> After a bench the temps sat at 55*C, with the ram sinks the temps slowly decreased to 40*C
> 
> Air cooling would help a lot more as it would be in the exhaust path. I suppose the end result is a ton of heat being the trade off for the speed gained


55c shouldn't be enough to effect the speed or performance of the M.2 device and I would just leave it alone if that's only as hot as it gets. Most of them don't speed-throttle until at or above 80c. They're designed to run like that, they're fine.


----------



## xenkw0n

He's probably referencing idle. My 950 Pro idled around 50c once the computer had been on for a bit. And while I understand this is the ghetto rigging thread, if you're dealing with new tech like an M.2 drive, why not just buy a heatsink meant for an M.2 drive?

https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-3830046991737-EK-M-2-Heatsink-Black/dp/B073RHHYCM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1512924872&sr=1-2&keywords=Ek+M.2

They even expanded so you can pick a color! I got the black one for mine but you'll want to make sure your M.2 drive is single-sided for these models since they also come with a backplate.


----------



## frostbite

Yeah mine is single sided, I will look into an heatspreader for it.

When I got it, it was bare and had that diy tin can plate you can put on it, I just added the ram sinks so the air flow would catch


----------



## Skye12977

Could anyone suggest a way hinge or method I could use to allow the two outer monitors to rotate towards me, without creating a gap between the monitors?

This is V1, need to work out how I'm going to do everything before making it actually look decent.



I'm using three of these monitors



They're all the 'same' 17" Acer brand VGA monitor. Sadly the middle one was different internally, also the reason why it doesn't have a stand.

I want to try and find a hinge I could mount on the top and bottom of the corner that touch (Left Monitor right side with Middle Monitor left side. Middle Monitor right side with Right Monitor left side.

*MS Paint example


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skye12977*
> 
> Could anyone suggest a way hinge or method I could use to allow the two outer monitors to rotate towards me, without creating a gap between the monitors?
> This is V1, need to work out how I'm going to do everything before making it actually look decent.
> I'm using three of these monitors
> They're all the 'same' 17" Acer brand VGA monitor. Sadly the middle one was different internally, also the reason why it doesn't have a stand.
> 
> I want to try and find a hinge I could mount on the top and bottom of the corner that touch (Left Monitor right side with Middle Monitor left side. Middle Monitor right side with Right Monitor left side.
> *MS Paint example


Just.. use standard VESA format wall-mount monitor arms? there's thousands in the market.. they're all adjustable... As long as your monitors support removable stands and have VESA bracket compatible mounts on the back.


----------



## frostbite

3 arm vesa desk mount, either a stand or clamped to the desk


----------



## Skye12977

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> Just.. use standard VESA format wall-mount monitor arms? there's thousands in the market.. they're all adjustable... As long as your monitors support removable stands and have VESA bracket compatible mounts on the back.


I mean I could, but I'm wanting to see if I can't do *something a little different* with these monitors.

I don't want to use any type of stand or monitor arm.

I don't want the hinge to be on the bezels between the screens, the backs aren't level, so the best thing that comes to mind is above the monitors.

I found these, but they won't be strong enough.



I found these...


----------



## RockeyDA

so i dont know if i posted this but my trans axel exploded (c ring floating arround got jamed in a gear) and i have been rebuidling the case from 2 shatterd cases with a chop saw and some JB weld. for added strenth i have been trying to rig up a solid axle system. my axel might be wide enough to support duallies but i haven't test fitted yet.
also my bull gear needs 1/2" + 1/8" sized key stock to lock to hub on axle shaft, so my plan is to shave the keystock long ways and make the 1/2" keystock the size i need.


----------



## Pawelr98

1mm drill in a 450W driller(it can do hammering too).

Wrapped some paper around the drill.
Works fine for drilling holes in PCB.


----------



## lexer

Got hit by a car a few months ago. That plastic is very expensive considering that is a cheap *** bike. So... Zip tie !


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Got hit by a car a few months ago. That plastic is very expensive considering that is a cheap *** bike. So... Zip tie !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gives it that "Frankenstein" effect too, looks pretty good!


----------



## TheBadBull

Hey drifter's stitching is a desirable look for some


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBadBull*
> 
> Hey drifter's stitching is a desirable look for some


I'm not knocking it at all, I'm digging the "stitched-up" look of it! (not sarcasm)


----------



## animal0307

Oh man!! Ive had cracked plastics on my ninka 250 for years and thry are only getting worse. Why did i never thunk of drift stitches. I may have something to do afrer the holiday break.


----------



## lexer

AHAHAHAHA Glad you liked guys







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *animal0307*
> 
> Oh man!! Ive had cracked plastics on my ninka 250 for years and thry are only getting worse. Why did i never thunk of drift stitches. I may have something to do afrer the holiday break.


That bike worth investing some bucks to repair it. This kit is similar to what professionals use https://www.amazon.com/Portasol-011289210-Plastic-Welding-Kit/dp/B003H6NNTY


----------



## RockeyDA

so all that effort backfired, cause of death=my atempt of cutting a keyway with a chopsaw.


----------



## cdoublejj

Removed the wimpy little copper sinks and swapped out with bigger aluminum sinks and had a wee bit of arctic thermal epoxy left and decided to stick em on the corner of the chokes. ...after cleaning off the soda pop sludge with alcohol and simple green with a tooth brush and air compressor. thankfully it still posts after cleaning.


----------



## frostbite

Whats that mobo?


----------



## cdoublejj

BioStar P4M900-M4. I think the new heatsinks are working. not blistering hot under notable load but, i have yet to stress test. i know it used to get hot hot under stress testing.


----------



## Nukemaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removed the wimpy little copper sinks and swapped out with bigger aluminum sinks and had a wee bit of arctic thermal epoxy left and decided to stick em on the corner of the chokes. ...after cleaning off the soda pop sludge with alcohol and simple green with a tooth brush and air compressor. thankfully it still posts after cleaning.


I used to think cooling inductors was not required, but since they dump heat into the board(or maybe absorb it from the board. either way they can be very hot.) I have changed my mind about that under some circumstances.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nukemaster*
> 
> I used to think cooling inductors was not required, but since they dump heat into the board(or maybe absorb it from the board. either way they can be very hot.) I have changed my mind about that under some circumstances.


I almost ground the text off so they were flat and used bigger heat sinks. so far it all feels way cooler but, i also have a PSU with a 120mm fan in it not too far from the VRMS and also no I/O shield, which i never had. if they do get hot under stress i have some double sided tape and a small fan that will fit over the serial and vga ports.









EDIT: and yeah i kind of came to the same realization about the heat absorption and then saw mobos with finned and dimpled chokes a few years later.


----------



## Nukemaster

Can never go wrong with more cooling. The caps will thank you.


----------



## cdoublejj

Yeah i already did a poly mod.



you can see the stock caps and stock north bridge heatsink.


----------



## Unknownm




----------



## dracconus

SO I found a guy selling an ASUS STRIX GTX 780 for $25 because it had one fan, and a missing shroud. The fan it DID have had a blown bearing; and was locking up.
So I disassembled it, cleaned everything out, re-pasted it with Arctic MX-4, and Slapped two Cooler Master Case Master 120's on it (72cfm @ 3.9mm/h2o) and it stays relatively 60c under full load while gaming at 1400mhz/3500mhz on Air.
All in all, I'd say GREAT waste of 25 bucks! - Especially since it was an upgrade from my R9 270x 4GB that I'll now re-sell for 50 more than what I paid for it.


----------



## Pawelr98

My amplifier.

120W ([email protected]), class A, the max output is less than 10W per channel.

Uses Czechoslovakian TESLA KD502 transistors.
150W 20A 60Vce Hometaxial transistor. Similar to western 2N3772 but with better gain.


----------



## xenkw0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> SO I found a guy selling an ASUS STRIX GTX 780 for $25 because it had one fan, and a missing shroud. The fan it DID have had a blown bearing; and was locking up.
> So I disassembled it, cleaned everything out, re-pasted it with Arctic MX-4, and Slapped two Cooler Master Case Master 120's on it (72cfm @ 3.9mm/h2o) and it stays relatively 60c under full load while gaming at 1400mhz/3500mhz on Air.
> All in all, I'd say GREAT waste of 25 bucks! - Especially since it was an upgrade from my R9 270x 4GB that I'll now re-sell for 50 more than what I paid for it.


1400mhz on the GPU core for a 780? Isn't that ridiculously high?


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> 1400mhz on the GPU core for a 780? Isn't that ridiculously high?


Yes, Yes it is. More information regarding this card, and validations, etc. can be found here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1393791/official-nvidia-gtx-780-owners-club/24920#post_26529837

I realize that in this particular instance the core is not 1400Mhz. While I CAN hit 1400Mhz, It's not stable at the moment due to my power supply, but I'm sure running 1354 is sufficient as proof that my card would be capable, no?


----------



## xenkw0n

Yea man, definitely. I was more asking than anything else. I have a friend who has a 780 and was having thermal throttle issues and once we take care of that I was going to try and mod his BIOS for him. I'm really just looking for what I should be able to expect as far as overclocks go on a 780. Would you say ~1200mhz core and 6500-7000mhz memory would be pretty standard for a reliable overclock on a 780? I'm assuming you were modding your BIOS and not using software? Might be better to take this into a personal message if you're open for it. I have experience modding my 970 with Maxwell ii Bios tweaker.

I actually have a new ghetto mod to show! Cut off my DVI connector on the 970 to fit this massive, old, arctic accelero xtreme gtx pro on my GTX 970 (made for a GTX 285);



The final product doesn't look too ghetto but the entire cooler was modded along with the mounting bracket that wasn't even meant for it so I could get it mounted on the 970 at all... Different spacing on the GPU holes... Fun!


----------



## dracconus

No, I used MSI Afterburner for the overclocks, and have done absolutely NOTHING to the card or it's BIOS other than the fans, and the T.I.M.
By editing the BIOS I am sure that I can hit 1450mhz but I don't want to turn my A760 into a ticking bomb. Lol
As for what would be respectable it just depends on the card and how it handles it's stress. I would say that 1100 would probably be more "the standard to expect to hit" and consider anything else pure dumb luck. Afterall, Kingpin was only able to get like 1600mhz core iirc and that was on LN2

**edit**
Getting insanely lucky with cards is nothing new to me. I once had an HIS HD6850 that was clock for clock able to compare with HD6950s and even destroyed their stock clocks in some tests, and that was on the stock heatsink AND fans, no mods whatsoever other than t.i.m.


----------



## xenkw0n

I was only asking because I wanted to know what voltage you were running. Did you do voltage offset in MSI afterburner? My whole plan is to not give the card more juice, but to see how far I can go with the stock voltage. He has a blower style card and I'm half-tempted to have him just rip off the plastic shroud and stick some fans against it like you did.

1400mhz is insane if most cards peak at ~1100-1200mhz. I would be cautious about getting artifacts then. My 970 can run at 1600mhz with 8200mhz memory but I'll get artifacting. I have that running at 1531 + 7700mhz memory to completely eliminate ANY artifacts. Modded bios, though, 1.281v.

Are you talking about a Corsair A760? That's a high-end unit, how would it have any issues powering a single overclocked card?


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenkw0n*
> 
> I was only asking because I wanted to know what voltage you were running. Did you do voltage offset in MSI afterburner? My whole plan is to not give the card more juice but to see how far I can go with the stock voltage. He has a blower style card and I'm half-tempted to have him just rip off the plastic shroud and stick some fans against it like you did.
> 
> 1400mhz is insane if most cards peak at ~1100-1200mhz. I would be cautious about getting artifacts then. My 970 can run at 1600mhz with 8200mhz memory but I'll get artifacting. I have that running at 1531 + 7700mhz memory to completely eliminate ANY artifacts. Modded bios, though, 1.281v.
> 
> Are you talking about a Corsair A760? That's a high-end unit, how would it have any issues powering a single overclocked card?


Without editing the BIOS The furthest I can get in superposition is 1354Mhz at max power draw, and the highest voltage offset in MSI Afterburner.
That said the only issue I run into is the benchmark crashing at 1400mhz. At 1380 I get a full driver crash, and at 1350 I have zero complications at all regardless of whether the memory is overclocked (this is how I know it's a power limit issue and not the fault of the card.)
The power supply I'm speaking of is a Cougar A760 (I should have specified that, and for that, I apologize.)
As for artifacting the only time I have gotten any was when I was testing the original limits without overvolting.
I can't recall what those were, as I blazed right past them once I saw my card wouldn't hit 55c at 50% fan speed; but I will say this:
If he's running a blower style cooler then the heatsink is COMPLETELY different, and I would NOT bother putting fans just "up against it" the way I did this ASUS. The blower style coolers don't typically have heatpipes at ALL, and heatpipes are far more efficient at cooling than just an aluminum block (Blower style coolers) would be.

Looking at superposition right now at 1333mhz the core runs at 1.212v with power limiting set to afterburners max. 67c at 50% fan speed, avg 68.5fps on 1080p medium test with total score of 9082 (always something right around that.)


Referring to tdp results in afterburner the highest i have hit is 85.7% of my allotted tdp so i simply need to bump the voltage to go higher stable, but again I do not want to nor need to since I quite enjoy the capabilities of this card as it stands.

That said: at +62mv to the core, and 120% power limit I can run +350mhz all day on core with no issues, but past that i HAVE to bump power limit excessively and the gain is minimal compared to the initial results.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> Referring to tdp results in afterburner the highest i have hit is 85.7% of my allotted tdp so i simply need to bump the voltage to go higher stable, but again I do not want to nor need to since I quite enjoy the capabilities of this card as it stands.
> 
> That said: at +62mv to the core, and 120% power limit I can run +350mhz all day on core with no issues, but past that i HAVE to bump power limit excessively and the gain is minimal compared to the initial results.


You're already at 1.212v. I'm like 98% sure this is literally the maximum nvidia will allow you to push through the 700 series of cards, custom bios or not. You can try and increase the power limit through bios and unleash it to let it suck as much power as it thinks it will need, and you -MIGHT- get 1400 mhz or more. But I think that you're most likely already at voltage max and probably can't go any higher. You're probably at max OC already.


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> You're already at 1.212v. I'm like 98% sure this is literally the maximum Nvidia will allow you to push through the 700 series of cards, custom bios or not. You can try and increase the power limit through bios and unleash it to let it suck as much power as it thinks it will need, and you -MIGHT- get 1400 Mhz or more. But I think that you're most likely already at voltage max and probably can't go any higher. You're probably at max OC already.


"Probably" isn't my type of mentality. Furthermore, I've seen 780s run 1.3 under the right conditions (It's even been mentioned in these very forums from time to time) without complication in the past, and given how efficient this one remains cool on air I've no reason to believe that proper power and cooling wouldn't allow such to occur. There are still plenty of ways outside of simply modifying the bios to unlock excess voltage on these cards, and given the price point of $25 I'm out to explore every. single. one of them regardless of whether it surmounts to the death of this card.
Also worth noting is that in no way is 1.212 NECESSARY to run the 1380Mhz, I set it there just for comfort's sake, and because I was too lazy to lower it during the quick setup that I did earlier today. I've run it at 1.8* by lowering the allotted power which is still lower than 1.212 and 1.3.


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> "Probably" isn't my type of mentality. Furthermore, I've seen 780s run 1.3 under the right conditions (It's even been mentioned in these very forums from time to time) without complication in the past, and given how efficient this one remains cool on air I've no reason to believe that proper power and cooling wouldn't allow such to occur. There are still plenty of ways outside of simply modifying the bios to unlock excess voltage on these cards, and given the price point of $25 I'm out to explore every. single. one of them regardless of whether it surmounts to the death of this card.
> Also worth noting is that in no way is 1.212 NECESSARY to run the 1380Mhz, I set it there just for comfort's sake, and because I was too lazy to lower it during the quick setup that I did earlier today. I've run it at 1.8* by lowering the allotted power which is still lower than 1.212 and 1.3.


I've tried to tell this to multiple folks before and some folks don't seem to understand. The nvidia 700 series cards -CAN-, potentially, run above 1.212v. Some cards. But not all of them. And the cards that can do it are usually in the low 5% or less of the entire retail-sold cards by all vendors. You're welcome to go try it, try a custom bios for 1.3v, it might work, maybe. The whole thing about it is with the 700 series, nvidia explicitly tried to enforce all vendors to 1.212v as the maximum. There were some card vendors that quietly exceeded this without permission and went beyond anyway. But which cards will go over and which will not is not actually documented anywhere that I've yet to ever find. Someone may have made a list but I've searched and can't find it. The vast majority of 700 series cards, even 780's and 780 Ti's, you go set something else in bios and flash it and go in windows and they just run at 1.212v anyway regardless of what you set.

Maybe you have a rare golden card in that 5% that will do it.. try it and good luck. But don't be surprised if it doesn't work.


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> I've tried to tell this to multiple folks before and some folks don't seem to understand. The nvidia 700 series cards -CAN-, potentially, run above 1.212v. Some cards. But not all of them. And the cards that can do it are usually in the low 5% or less of the entire retail-sold cards by all vendors. You're welcome to go try it, try a custom bios for 1.3v, it might work, maybe. The whole thing about it is with the 700 series, nvidia explicitly tried to enforce all vendors to 1.212v as the maximum. There were some card vendors that quietly exceeded this without permission and went beyond anyway. But which cards will go over and which will not is not actually documented anywhere that I've yet to ever find. Someone may have made a list but I've searched and can't find it. The vast majority of 700 series cards, even 780's and 780 Ti's, you go set something else in bios and flash it and go in windows and they just run at 1.212v anyway regardless of what you set.
> 
> Maybe you have a rare golden card in that 5% that will do it.. try it and good luck. But don't be surprised if it doesn't work.


I appreciate the candor, honestly; but just because my status on these particular forums that I rarely ever visit is low doesn't mean I'm some entry-level idiot that has no earthly inclination of what it is I'm doing. I'm well aware of the limits that Nvidia attempted to set, and I'm also aware that for 1. This isn't a reference card, and 2. there are ways around it regardless of whether or not Nvidia tries to force it on you. I've been doing this for longer than I even care to explain, but I'll leave this conversation with this: "You're from Texas too, you should know. We go big, ESPECIALLY in Dallas. DFW born and raised, friend









Also, fwiw I didn't expect this card to work at all, so it's already done more than enough surprises to me. Hell, I barely expected it to be a GTX 780 for 25 bucks. LOL


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> "You're from Texas too, you should know. We go big, ESPECIALLY in Dallas. DFW born and raised, friend


Where in DFW did you get this half broken for $25? I want one!









And yeah, Why do you think I went 1080 Ti + x99 hexacore chip for my latest build when my 3770K died.







Might PM you about my latest computer.. not sure I want to post it publically.


----------



## dracconus

I'm not currently in DFW anymore. I'm out west in Lubbock. I of course have no problem sharing this information because I've pissed off half the internet at some point or another, and I welcome them to find me


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Not to ghetto but I need to measure Power and Kw/h of PC , Spliced a 45A rated ( Its used other places hence the 45A rating ) Kw/h / Kw / A / PF meter into a power cable for the PC


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Not to ghetto but I need to measure Power and Kw/h of PC , Spliced a 45A rated ( Its used other places hence the 45A rating ) Kw/h / Kw / A / PF meter into a power cable for the PC


You know they do make plug-through things called the Kill-a-watt for about $19 US, 5000% safer than that thing.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Yes , So what makes it 5000% safer other than I cant stick my fingers in a connection ?

Plus a kill a watt meter isn't capable of 45A max , This isn't a permanent thing either and if it was id box mount it .


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Yes , So what makes it 5000% safer other than I cant stick my fingers in a connection ?
> 
> Plus a kill a watt meter isn't capable of 45A max , This isn't a permanent thing either and if it was id box mount it .


It should be obvious? What makes it safer is not splicing in to and jury-rigging something to deal with mains voltage @ 220v. Which is really scary. And I doubt you seriously have any circuits in your home that are rated for more than 20A, anything more than that is pretty pointless. Also.. you don't have a computer pulling more than 20A, they don't make power supplies that big.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kithylin*
> 
> It should be obvious? What makes it safer is not splicing in to and jury-rigging something to deal with mains voltage @ 220v. Which is really scary. And I doubt you seriously have any circuits in your home that are rated for more than 20A, anything more than that is pretty pointless. Also.. you don't have a computer pulling more than 20A, they don't make power supplies that big.


Splicing it makes it no more dangerous than a plug it meter , connections are soldered and screw terminated and secured with PVC insulation covering contacts , no reason for anything to happen unless I decide one day to stick a finger under the cover , if I put it in a box its no different to a kill a watt meter , just with a cable in-between.

230V isn't scary if you are aware of what you are doing , which I am .

You can doubt as mush as you like , But I do have a 45A 230V circuit to my shed , so yeah I do . Who said I use it solely for computers ? ....


----------



## kithylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> You can doubt as mush as you like , But I do have a 45A 230V circuit to my shed , so yeah I do . Who said I use it solely for computers ? ....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwirlyWhirly555*
> 
> Not to ghetto but *I need to measure Power and Kw/h of PC* , Spliced a 45A rated ( Its used other places hence the 45A rating ) Kw/h / Kw / A / PF meter into a power cable for the PC


You did right there... If you'd said something else I wouldn't of replied what I did. I was just assuming you used it for PC or computer, because of what you posted.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Ah well you got me ....


----------



## Cindex

Man do I have some ghetto for you guys. Zip ties, packing tape, gorilla tape, and shoved too many things in too small of a box. Built 2 PCs into a little china cabinet like thingy... The one on the left side (little one) runs the TV, and the one on the right side is my new (well, to me) 4930K with watercooling and an original GTX Titan. Watercooling stuff made it into a mess, since the tubes are only so bendable and it takes up a lot more space than the last one I shoved in there.



All Photos
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3CGfM1H9vlyAv9st1
Try to ignore the mess. I had just finished. The wires are slightly better now, but not by much. Just doesn't fit....


----------



## RockeyDA

so i wanted to bring my pentium 3 server back to life, as 2018 seems like a good year to daily drive a Pentium 3

i got sick of the powersupply floating arround in the case becase the motherbord needs a connector like you would see on a AT power supply combined with a 20pin atx connector, i blew up all my good powersupplys so now its a gateway power supply i have to work with.
i moved the bottom fan to the back, but i did not want to waste alot of time, i also wanted to mount my hard drives in some fashion but the case was missing the bays.


----------



## cdoublejj

a top end P3 with a clock boost and 1 gb of ram MIGHT just be doable with the right browser and browsing habbits and right OS


----------



## RockeyDA

well in 2017 i was wathcing youtube videos on it 20fps 240p.


----------



## cdoublejj

with a new enough GPU and OS you can get some GPU acceleration. like the p4m900-m4 did for the pentium 4 but, in your case you'd need the best a AGP slot you could get


----------



## RockeyDA

the slot is AGP 2x so that really limits the cards. its got a voodoo fx 3 (3000d) witch is a nice matchup for the rest of the PC


----------



## cdoublejj

great for retro gaming.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> the slot is AGP 2x so that really limits the cards. its got a voodoo fx 3 (3000d) witch is a nice matchup for the rest of the PC


it really is sad 3dfx went belly up glide really was great while it lasted...i bought the voodoo 5 back in the day saved two years and purchased it for 645 dollars...a month later 0 driver support from 3dfx lol


----------



## RockeyDA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it really is sad 3dfx went belly up glide really was great while it lasted...i bought the voodoo 5 back in the day saved two years and purchased it for 645 dollars...a month later 0 driver support from 3dfx lol


glide died because of proprietary, if they went all openCL about it it would probably be as big as direct X if not bigger. its amazing how it was practically an epic fad that faded faster than it came.
but old OS's and games still support glide so it will live on forever, untill all the cards go falty and a mad solar flare kills everything else fun.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockeyDA*
> 
> glide died because of proprietary, if they went all openCL about it it would probably be as big as direct X if not bigger. its amazing how it was practically an epic fad that faded faster than it came.
> but old OS's and games still support glide so it will live on forever, untill all the cards go falty and a mad solar flare kills everything else fun.


3dfx pushed glide very hard and for those games that supported it it was buttery smooth comparatively....but i dont have anything before windows 7 these days i simply dont have room for a second pc...i dpnt really have room for the behemouth i have but....side note i had to buy a new power supply to run the voodoo 5...i think it was a 500 watt back then which wasnt cheap...but i kept getting hard shutdowns on the cheap 350 i had at the time....i moss those days of gaming though


----------



## Pawelr98

Stereo KD502 Class A amplifier is working, it needs some improvements like new power cord or better fan cutout.


----------



## RockeyDA

hmm, i have some nice high power mosfets i want to build an amp out of, but i dont know much about wiring up amps other than theres alot of caps and the last time i tried, i faild.

also what the hell did they do to this sight? some the stuff is broke, and what dose work is confusing and pegs my laptop. i form sight should be able to work on IE4... im on what ever chrome XP last got.


----------



## Pawelr98

RockeyDA said:


> hmm, i have some nice high power mosfets i want to build an amp out of, but i dont know much about wiring up amps other than theres alot of caps and the last time i tried, i faild.
> 
> also what the hell did they do to this sight? some the stuff is broke, and what dose work is confusing and pegs my laptop. i form sight should be able to work on IE4... im on what ever chrome XP last got.


Class A amps are easy to do.

For bipolar transistors it's two resistors + two capacitors (no work point stabilisation but it still works very well if you have stabilised supply) or four resistors + two capacitors (work point stabilisation).

For mosfet transistors it's three resistors + two capacitors (no work point stabilisation).
Not exactly sure how work point stabilisation works on mosfet, most likely very similar to bipolar (resistor connected to source).


Efficiency with Class A sucks (few %) but it's simple and offers good sound quality.

My amp pulls 4A average at 30V even at idle.
Theory wise it may pull up to 7.5A (both channels at peak 30V output) in pulses.

The design is quite "original", +-15V symmetrical supply but also uses output capacitor in order to remove DC from output.
Input is DC-coupled.
Attatched the schematic of monobloc in my amp.

KD502 is a vintage czechoslovakian NPN high power(150W) transistor, BD139 is generic NPN medium power(10W) transistor.
For now the amp uses LM833 opamp but classic NE5532 may also be used (same pinout).
They are very similar anyway.


----------



## RockeyDA

i think i have 4 of these to work with

http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/IRFS450B-D.pdf
if i dont have 4 then i have 2 in the scrap bin.


----------



## Pawelr98

RockeyDA said:


> i think i have 4 of these to work with
> 
> http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/IRFS450B-D.pdf
> if i dont have 4 then i have 2 in the scrap bin.


High voltage,low current.
It's a typical primary-side switching transistor.
Kinda opposite of what you need.

0.39R RDSon resistance so cannot handle a lot of current.
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/amplifier/mosfet-amplifier.html
Contains some theory.

The four-resistor, two capacitor circuit is what you need.
R1,R2 provide bias,Rd is the load,Rs is used for work point stabilisation.

You find the sweet spot on characteristics, bias the transistor and it will work fine.

A potentiometer is a decent alternative to separate R1+R2 resistors.
Rd should be about the same as speaker, 8R/4R is preffered but anything close will work fine too.

Try the circuit with low voltage (eg.10V) just in case.


----------



## RockeyDA

im building a olld school monstor workstation, im making a video on it right now. down the road i plan on getting 1ghz pentium 3's and puting it a 32mb matrox workstation card to replace the 16mb voodoo 3000d

there are 2 parts, the volume knob from a amp used to controll fan speed and the glue gun speaker mount for a high efficiency pc speaker.


----------



## Unknownm

My parents own a place in this strata building. The pc that makes fobs started freezing and my step dad being part of community of strata recommended me.

First of all I never delt with cap issues. It turns on and loads XP from the bootsreen but system locks up when desktop loads.

Can these faulty caps cause this issue? I feel like replacing them might fix the issue.. I just don't wanna charge the building for something that might not be worth it.

Hard-drive is IDE I don't own any adapters to copy the files over.









Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## SavantStrike

Why not find another old machine and move to that? There might be someone throwing out a suitable replacement right now. I've got two p4 rigs sitting around right now looking for attention lol.

What do you mean by strata.


----------



## Unknownm

SavantStrike said:


> Why not find another old machine and move to that? There might be someone throwing out a suitable replacement right now. I've got two p4 rigs sitting around right now looking for attention lol.
> 
> What do you mean by strata.


I have no idea what I'm working with in terms of software. They said this computer is used to program key fobs to let people into the building. This was inside the telephone room not connected to the Internet or any devices besides keyboard, mouse and vga for 17inch crt. Not sure how those fobs are programmed or maybe the lady keeps the device with her? Idk 

however what's important to me Is keeping windows install and maybe transfer the HDD to a similar chipset motherboard. It's running Windows XP that's all I know.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Unknownm said:


> My parents own a place in this strata building. The pc that makes fobs started freezing and my step dad being part of community of strata recommended me.
> 
> First of all I never delt with cap issues. It turns on and loads XP from the bootsreen but system locks up when desktop loads.
> 
> Can these faulty caps cause this issue? I feel like replacing them might fix the issue.. I just don't wanna charge the building for something that might not be worth it.
> 
> Hard-drive is IDE I don't own any adapters to copy the files over.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


Those ram slots are triggering me.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

nvidiaftw12 said:


> Those ram slots are triggering me.


A lot of old OEM motherboards had them on a slant. It's to keep the traces even length.


----------



## RockeyDA

you did not really give any information that would point toward or against caps. hell it could be a damaged program running at startup, how dose safe mode work? if it works have you tried disabling all startup items? you have to make sure the software end is good before you assume its hardware unless the manufacture has a diagnostic disk for that system.
also it never hurts to re-seat the ram, that has been like 30% of all pc problems i have ran into(especially in dells).

i was on a house call about 2 weeks ago to help a guy who said correldrawl crashed, he restarted is computer, and then the screen just stayed black, i checked it out, no ram beep error, pulled out ram, blew out slots, put ram back in, booted right up no problems.


----------



## Unknownm

RockeyDA said:


> you did not really give any information that would point toward or against caps. hell it could be a damaged program running at startup, how dose safe mode work? if it works have you tried disabling all startup items? you have to make sure the software end is good before you assume its hardware unless the manufacture has a diagnostic disk for that system.
> also it never hurts to re-seat the ram, that has been like 30% of all pc problems i have ran into(especially in dells).
> 
> i was on a house call about 2 weeks ago to help a guy who said correldrawl crashed, he restarted is computer, and then the screen just stayed black, i checked it out, no ram beep error, pulled out ram, blew out slots, put ram back in, booted right up no problems.


I didn't give much information because I know nothing at the time. Gave the pc startup again locked up after bootsreen so Inserted bootable XP dvd disk and it froze at setup menu. Now 30 seconds in the bios setup it also freezes. I restore defaults reboot and same thing also same method with battery. Seems to me like ram, motherboard or cpu are causing the system to lockup. Changing the ram or reslotting them did nothing. 

The issue is hardware.. Maybe the caps but personally why try to fix this POC the client wants to have the software on her newer laptop which I'm unsure can be done until I actually get to see the process of how she programs the fob. I'm not worried about running the program as virtualbox or program compability works well but if she needs Internet or USB or serial device attached.

Also the fob company said if she can't get a computer running they will charge her 15,000 to reupdate to a newer system because they don't support it anymore.. 

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Pawelr98

Capacity of such blown cap is usually a small fraction of original value.

Even some low-quality chinese caps will be better than blown caps.
Capacitors are very cheap.

I counted 12 blown caps.
Less than single hour of work and few USD at top(dunno what prices you have).


----------



## Unknownm

Pawelr98 said:


> Capacity of such blown cap is usually a small fraction of original value.
> 
> Even some low-quality chinese caps will be better than blown caps.
> Capacitors are very cheap.
> 
> I counted 12 blown caps.
> Less than single hour of work and few USD at top(dunno what prices you have).


I was thinking about replacing them but the only soldering in my life was a small wire to bridge two ends. Which created a volt mod on my evga geforce 7900gs from 500mhz to 670mhz on air cooler 

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Unknownm said:


> I was thinking about replacing them but the only soldering in my life was a small wire to bridge two ends. Which created a volt mod on my evga geforce 7900gs from 500mhz to 670mhz on air cooler
> 
> Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


The hardest thing is getting the solder to melt on the motherboard. What I do is I take a heatgun and slowly warm up the board. This helps the soldering iron melt the solder without needing to hold it there for a long time. For through hole capacitors you can bridge the two connections on the back to make it easy to slide the pins in and out, then unbridge them after putting the new part in.


----------



## Pawelr98

Adding lead solder usually helps.Liquid metal passes heat more efficiently.

Lead-Free solder is much harder to work with as melting point is higher.


----------



## RockeyDA

just make sure you re-seat everything before you assume caps unless its clearly visible there blown or leaking. and everybody talks lead free down, after about my 3rd solder job with it i have had 0 problems. its slightly harder to work with but as long as you have a half decent (10+$) iron it should be no problem. my iron is a 5 year old 15$ radio sack iron. before that i had a ron that was about 10 years old when i retired it, 5$ radio shack iron and to melt solder properly i had to heat up the middle of the iron with my zippo right before soldering.


----------



## Skye12977

Putting three smaller screens together to get more screen real estate. (Budget screen real estate)
*All 3 monitors were 17" Acer monitors @1280x1020
*Total personnel cost was about 95$
*Total screen size 42 1/2 inches [Wide] x 11 5/8 inches [Tall]
*Total resolution size with Nvidia surround 3840x1024 [Meaning if two of these "monitors" were stacked it would almost a 4K resolution [divided into 6 displays]. (4K resolution is 3840x2160 vs the theoretical 3840x2048 of the screens)]


What are the pictures:
1. The first picture is a single screen
2. Second picture is pretty much how it's sitting right now
*Notice the table. It's so old and I've worked on so many random things on it that I'm rather embarrassed to even still have it in my living room anymore.
3. Third person zoomed out
*Brother decided to buy me World of Warcraft Time and Legion for no real reason. Haven't played it in quite a few years.
4. First person detail of a player
5. First person detail of another player
6. First person detail of an NPC
7. Future possible plans?



Pros:
>Uniqueness
>Total Price
>Max Resolution @ 3840x1024
>Multitasking
*Your choice of on display @ 3840x1024 or three displays @ 1280x1024
>Detail (At 3840x1024 you can play a game and not feel like you're using cheap/small monitors)
>Borders/Bezels (Not as annoying as what I've experienced with 23" or 24" triple monitors setups)
>Refresh rate of 60 or 75 Hz @ 3840x1024

Cons:
>Uniqueness
>Weight
>GPU horses needed to run some games (I personally use a 980ti)
>Borders/Bezels (There are bezels none the less)
>Footprint
>Limited to VGA inputs
>Having to buy display adapters
>The display(s) seem too wide vs tall

Price Breakdown:
50$ [4x Acer 17" Monitors (seller had 4, so why not. doesn't hurt to have an extra screen)]
0$ [VGA Cables and Power Cables included with screens]
8$ [HDMI to VGA Adapter]
12$ [2x DisplayPort to VGA Adapter]
25$ [JB weld and 2x Aluminum solid angle pieces]
Total ends up being about 95$




Conclusion:
*I don't know if other people have really ever thought about doing this, but it has always been in the back of my head.*
I'm glad I was finally able to do this as I've always been curious about this setup. One issue that I noticed was that one monitor had a slow/blurry spot, the best I could explain it would be if you enabled motion blur on within a game.
I would honestly like to keep the contraption until I either get bored of it or manage to sell it (if that's even possible for someone to want this). 
I wanted to put the plastic casing back on the monitors to make it look better, but I figured that would be waste of time as 1. I'd have to buy tools to do it and not make it look entirely hacked together and 2. the time and effort it would take to do that.
I see this as version 1.0 [or 1.1 as I used heavy duty double sided mounting tape first, but decided to move to JB weld so I would have a much more solid design. I regret that for future possibilities] and the last picture I added shows possible future ideas.

Idea 1-> Stacking 6 screens
Idea 2-> Going from Landscape to Portrait. Increasing the height of the display/resolution.
Idea 3-> Keeping the monitors in Portrait and replacing the two center monitors with a single 2560x1440 that's also in portrait.
*This might be a little strange to use. Especially if you make them 5 separate screens. But oh boy do I want to try this.


----------



## Simmons572

I like to have a fan running at all times when I am at work, the air movement and white noise helps me concentrate. I have been lucky over the past couple years, as I have inherited 2 fans from coworkers that left to get different jobs. However, both of those fans were confiscated, as they both had heater cores built into them. (Our company has a strict no-spaceheater policy) So I decided build one myself. 

The fan is a 33W 9" AC 110V ball bearing fan, which we ripped out of a dead hot water heat pump. I ground out a U-shape in the center of the 2x4, and drilled the 4 holes on either side for the screws. I dremel'd out space for the wires and the switch, and secured them with hot glue. 

A few of my coworkers don't like it because it "looks dangerous", but it is completely safe. I think.


----------



## Unknownm

Pawelr98 said:


> Capacity of such blown cap is usually a small fraction of original value.
> 
> Even some low-quality chinese caps will be better than blown caps.
> Capacitors are very cheap.
> 
> I counted 12 blown caps.
> Less than single hour of work and few USD at top(dunno what prices you have).





xxpenguinxx said:


> The hardest thing is getting the solder to melt on the motherboard. What I do is I take a heatgun and slowly warm up the board. This helps the soldering iron melt the solder without needing to hold it there for a long time. For through hole capacitors you can bridge the two connections on the back to make it easy to slide the pins in and out, then unbridge them after putting the new part in.


thanks rep+. I'm meeting with her tomorrow I found out the connection to the fob console is telephone or LAN which requires software. She has original software! but asked on running it on her laptop (windows 7). First i'll try just installing normally through windows if this fails, Virtualbox VMware windows XP install with network drivers (hopefully LAN). Worst case nothing works gonna find Pentium 4-D/Core 2 Duo/Nehalem system with LAN/Telephone IO and that's cheap to run.

sorry i don't know how to rep+


----------



## nrpeyton

Dropped 3c-4c off GPU temps by having fan blowing directly onto back plate behind core & memory.


----------



## RockeyDA

Simmons572 said:


> I like to have a fan running at all times when I am at work, the air movement and white noise helps me concentrate. I have been lucky over the past couple years, as I have inherited 2 fans from coworkers that left to get different jobs. However, both of those fans were confiscated, as they both had heater cores built into them. (Our company has a strict no-spaceheater policy) So I decided build one myself.
> 
> The fan is a 33W 9" AC 110V ball bearing fan, which we ripped out of a dead hot water heat pump. I ground out a U-shape in the center of the 2x4, and drilled the 4 holes on either side for the screws. I dremel'd out space for the wires and the switch, and secured them with hot glue.
> 
> A few of my coworkers don't like it because it "looks dangerous", but it is completely safe. I think.


to bad you dont have my kind of coworkers, we turn a blind eye to safty violations so often we start to forget what were violating. i dont think the chemical mask has been worn since i worked here other than being dusted off for safty inspectors. and i dont think my pay grade is allowed in the hydraulic press or boiler room but i got the damn keys to both and im in both often. because of common sense the worst injury i have seen is some one with a bloody sock from pushing a full packing cart in to there ankle, my worst was slipping on ice in the parking lot 3 years ago.

if my department had its own building i could do what ever i wanted really. like have my dman boom box and subwoofer back in my work area.


----------



## Unknownm

she was wrong and so was I. 

The software uses Serial connection which I thought was the mouse at the time. Turns out the mouse was ps/2, 

She provided me with original fob software, can serial emulator be done in virtualbox?

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## RockeyDA

cant you just use a PC with serial? most computers have it. i have 1 out of arround 30 that dose not


----------



## Nukemaster

From my experience more computers have removed serial than keeping it. I had to get rid of a scanner years ago because I no longer had the port for it.

On the plus side you can get a USB to serial adapter for cheap enough. I use one for my UPS.


----------



## 5291Crash

Depending on the mobo, lots still have the connector to add a RS232 port to them, gennerally on the lower edge. 


https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...m_re=serial_port_cable-_-12-200-516-_-Product


----------



## RockeyDA

if this software is not to taxing on the cpu just find a 15$ dell form 2000-2004, thoes things are so common some times you cant give them away, at least around here. a while back i sold about 8 dells for 20$ total becase i was sick of holding on to them, i still have 4 left.


----------



## anywhere

Nukemaster said:


> From my experience more computers have removed serial than keeping it. I had to get rid of a scanner years ago because I no longer had the port for it.
> 
> On the plus side you can get a USB to serial adapter for cheap enough. I use one for my UPS.


Serial or parallel? 

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


----------



## doyll

anywhere said:


> Serial or parallel?
> 
> Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


I seen both serial USB and parallel USB adapters.


----------



## Nukemaster

anywhere said:


> Serial or parallel?
> 
> Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


Mine has a 9 pin 2 row dsub serial connector. It works just like having on on my board.
Mine uses a prolific chipset(and it came from Amazon).


----------



## iCrap

My ghetto rigging adventures on a 1080ti today....

Waterblock didn't fit, so I thought i could modify it.



























Ending up ruining it completely. Dumbass move...

Then I got a universal block, and had to cut up the midplate to make it fit and cool the VRMs. (RIP WARRANTY) 
And it still dosen't work because the rest of the card is too hot to touch under load.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

You could probably cut it out more and braze on a copper piece, then recut to proper shape.


----------



## Nukemaster

iCrap,

More heatsink on the midplate and a fan should get you up and running.

Am i right to assume that the stock cooler just used airflow over the midplate?

If so, even a fan alone will give better results because the air will not be pre heated by the cooler.


----------



## iCrap

xxpenguinxx said:


> You could probably cut it out more and braze on a copper piece, then recut to proper shape.


That might work, Just scared it might leak though. But might as well try since its scrap metal now.



Nukemaster said:


> iCrap,
> 
> More heatsink on the midplate and a fan should get you up and running.
> 
> Am i right to assume that the stock cooler just used airflow over the midplate?
> 
> If so, even a fan alone will give better results because the air will not be pre heated by the cooler.


Yeah, stock just used airflow on it. I was thinking about sticking the stock fan back onto the midplate, but without a shroud I wonder if it will even do anything. I do have more little heatsinks as well as thermal epoxy so i could try that.


----------



## Nukemaster

If you do not mind going on ebay or similar you can get some low profile large heatsinks that may work well for this. Then you can screw some kind of low speed fans on it.
Remember VRMs will run at a temperature that will burn us, but is well within the specs for them.

I like overkill at times.

1070 VRM cooler. I want to make something better, but a part of a cpu cooler works pretty well








My old GTX 670. Old AMD cooler as close to the VRM area as I can get it. The GPU has an all on one liquid cooler on it.


----------



## Pawelr98

A way to connect European plug to american-style socket.

Forgot to take the adapter plug when going to japan.
I needed to connect my shaver somehow.


----------



## Nukemaster

Pawelr98

That is priceless.


----------



## Unknownm

Spoiler






RockeyDA said:


> cant you just use a PC with serial? most computers have it. i have 1 out of arround 30 that dose not





Nukemaster said:


> From my experience more computers have removed serial than keeping it. I had to get rid of a scanner years ago because I no longer had the port for it.
> 
> On the plus side you can get a USB to serial adapter for cheap enough. I use one for my UPS.





5291Crash said:


> Depending on the mobo, lots still have the connector to add a RS232 port to them, gennerally on the lower edge.
> 
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...m_re=serial_port_cable-_-12-200-516-_-Product





RockeyDA said:


> if this software is not to taxing on the cpu just find a 15$ dell form 2000-2004, thoes things are so common some times you cant give them away, at least around here. a while back i sold about 8 dells for 20$ total becase i was sick of holding on to them, i still have 4 left.





anywhere said:


> Serial or parallel?
> 
> Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk





doyll said:


> I seen both serial USB and parallel USB adapters.





Nukemaster said:


> Mine has a 9 pin 2 row dsub serial connector. It works just like having on on my board.
> Mine uses a prolific chipset(and it came from Amazon).







Thanks!

I'm on craigslist trying to find the cheapest low budget ($20 or less) XP ready machine all It needs is the serial port. Tested out the software on virtualbox (no networking w/COM port) and indeed seems pretty straight forward. 

Although looks like I can't play with it as I don't have the serial key


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Try debugging it with ollydbg. The software is pretty old I think it would be easy to crack it.


----------



## Unknownm

Alright pardon my English. 

I was able to get the software running and communicating with the fob system. The goal was head strata member come into the room with keyscan open, add new cardholder (fob key). 

First issue was no information was available (customers etc) Reading the software installation guide says 3 ways of restoring. First 2 required backup files which is unavailable unless I find IDE to USB and dig around on the old pc HDD. HOWEVER 3rd option was reading information from the 2 fob units through serial, and was able to find serial# and passwords for both. 

After importing both boxes finally the software updated with all customers keys, timezones, groups etc.. but had problems communicating with both boxes. Little box at the bottom of the keyscan main menu says : 0 of 2 panels active. No where in the software manual says about panels unactive or active so great... Ran test programs off the CD Rom and all of them reported OK communication to both boxes.

This leads me to think it's gotta be the client software (keyscan) that's having the issue and nothing to do with the communication. After a painfully tour around the submenus I found "site setup" which had another button that lead to a new window for detailed information about each box. Inside those details (another window) is 2 boxes with "active" and "inactive" and both fob boxes were set to inactive.

Both now set to active, I reboot the software and right away the program beeps at me with alerts and 2 panels active. Now it resynced the software to the box by updating all information and bam new fob keys work! 


Oh yeah note to keyscan company if your tech company doesn't support outdated software don't be a hole about it. The guy was so mean over the phone telling why are you calling us we don't support this old software and recommend I upgrade right away. 

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Unknownm

My question with last post. I need to write a invoice and she said whatever you charge is fine Reason why is the building is paying not her so what's a reasonable price? 

I was gonna do $25 per hour, 5 hours total time and $25 computer replacement (which was 25 dollars of my money from Craigslist plus 30 minutes of my time)

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## Pawelr98

USSR germanium AB class amplifier

MΠ37Б (NPN)+МП42Б(PNP) on output
"Pseudo" pair as МП42Б is stronger than МП37Б
Best МП37Б paired with worst МП42Б to more-less match the gain.

TG5S is used for control.
It's a Polish Germanium PNP transistor from 60's.


----------



## Unknownm

Liquid my ati x1950xtx with nail polish covering the rest. I will need to buy a HDD to install Windows 7 so I can install ati drivers before testing









Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk


----------



## RockeyDA

Pawelr98 said:


> A way to connect European plug to american-style socket.
> 
> Forgot to take the adapter plug when going to japan.
> I needed to connect my shaver somehow.


dont japan do something wired like like 100-110v 50hz instead of 110-120v 60hz?


----------



## RockeyDA

so i know this aint computers, but i shoved a big motor on a small lawntractor. this thing is supposed to have a 12hp single. i had to take tin snips and cut gastank mounts untill i could slide it back 2" for the motor to bolt on, then i had to cut the spring mounts for holding the hood open for the exhaust manifolds to fit. this alot more i still have to do, one of them being cut the sides of the hood out so it will fit back on. i flipped this thing alot with the single cylinder and i do not want a running opposing twin hitting me in the chest.


----------



## Pawelr98

RockeyDA said:


> dont japan do something wired like like 100-110v 50hz instead of 110-120v 60hz?


Yeah

But I believe that the socket is the same as in the USA.

100V is low but most switching power supplies won't care even if it's 40-50VDC(~30-35VAC).
One of my phone chargers was running fine on 35VDC.

I'm going part hunting this week.
Maybe I will bring the high-power GU50 Pentode.
40W RF Pentode made in USSR and licensed in Poland.

It's a perfect device for single-ended class A tube amplifier as it can take tons of heat.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

It looks too clean for this thread but it is ghetto. I needed an HD AV cable for the OG Xbox. People wanted to too much money for the original used ($70+), and the cheap ones had terrible reviews, so I decided to make my own. I followed this guide and used a 360 AV cable. http://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/240-high-quality-diy-component-cable/

The 360 one I got isn't OEM, so it had individual wires instead of the shielding. This made the installation much easier, and I saw no issues in the signal quality.


----------



## Nukemaster

xxpenguinxx,

Looks great.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

xxpenguinxx said:


> It looks too clean for this thread but it is ghetto. I needed an HD AV cable for the OG Xbox. People wanted to too much money for the original used ($70+), and the cheap ones had terrible reviews, so I decided to make my own. I followed this guide and used a 360 AV cable. http://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/240-high-quality-diy-component-cable/
> 
> The 360 one I got isn't OEM, so it had individual wires instead of the shielding. This made the installation much easier, and I saw no issues in the signal quality.


You did a too professional looking job to qualify for this thread. You need to, at least, use some silver duct tape on it. Or, maybe, even some masking tape.


----------



## lexer

I got a new chair with wheels, so i need something to fix me in place when play with my racing wheel and diy pedals.


----------



## Blze001

Question for you guys: I need to cut bits into my case, but I'm running into a problem. I can't really make any progress cutting with my mini-drill. It's not a name-brand Dremel, but the same kinda thing. It takes me probably 30 minutes of cutting to go half an inch, primarily because if I put too much force on it the tool stops. Is this just a case of me needing a beefier tool to spin the disc? I have a sawzall that goes through it like butter, but not only is that not exactly delicate, it also makes so much noise I'll have people on the other side of the apartment building complaining.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

You probably just need a harder cutting wheel. Take it to a hardware store and see if they have wheels that fit.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

If it's not that your tool is dramatically underpowered, it might be your cutting technique. Check out these two videos:











I've used both types of cutting wheels and both work pretty much the same other than the larger diameter disk will last longer before wearing out and it is much easier to change out disks. The only reason I'm still using the smaller ones is I still have a bunch of them I haven't used yet. Once I run out of them, I'll switch out to the large ones.

Cut close to but not on the line, then sneak up on the line using flat, half round, and round files (you should have sets of all three in various sizes and degrees of coarseness). Using a grinding drum as shown in one of the videos is more likely to result in a crooked line. Be prepared to spend as much, if not more, time filing than cutting unless you do not care how accurate the cut is (such as when the edge of the cut will never show, in which just dulling the sharp edges may be enough). I tend to cut farther from the line than most people need to since my old, arthritic hands are nowhere nearly as steady as they used to be. That way, any "oopsies" can be filed out (I—and my hands—hate filing but it is a necessary evil).

The first video complained that the battery operated Dremels didn't have enough power for cutting. Horse feathers! I have one and I was able to use it to easily cut an 8 1/4" x 16" window in a aluminum panel use most of one battery and part of the second one. It didn't cut any slower than my old, outdated 120vDremel and is easier to use without being tethered by a power cord. 

Also, if you are using one of the straight, carbide bits (looks a little like a drill bit), it will be slow as a sick snail. Use the cutting disks instead.


----------



## RockeyDA

get at small 20$ harbor freight angle grinder, would cut a computer case like butter. also id recommend doing metal work outside, and while wearing clothing your ok with catching on fire.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> get at small 20$ harbor freight angle grinder, would cut a computer case like butter. also id recommend doing metal work outside, and while wearing clothing your ok with catching on fire.


True, an angle grinder is faster but that would be like using a chainsaw to make toothpicks.


----------



## Blze001

On a whim, I stuck the cutting disc on my cordless drill and it went through just fine, I think it was a case of my off-brand not having enough oomph for the thicker case material.

Probably still suitable for cleaning the cuts up afterwards though.


----------



## toolmaker03

it's pretty ghetto.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

That's not ghetto, that's insanity. I almost forgot about that build. Glad to see you're still going at it.


----------



## Bill Owen

yes, that's an intense setup for sure


----------



## TheBadBull

Is that a setup with multiple peltier elements?

e:
Just saw your sig, I can't believe I got that right.


----------



## RockeyDA

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> True, an angle grinder is faster but that would be like using a chainsaw to make toothpicks.


not if you grab a small one, not something like my 7" 14 amp one, something with a 4" wheel.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> not if you grab a small one, not something like my 7" 14 amp one, something with a 4" wheel.


Still overkill for most applications.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Still overkill for most applications.


Overkill is better than the tool not working.


----------



## doyll

xxpenguinxx said:


> Overkill is better than the tool not working.


While a 4" angle grinder is not as easy to handle/maneuver there are some very nice thin cutting wheels available for it. I often use one instead of whimpy little Dremel like tools. I do have a Dremel and do occasionally use it when space limits me, but I don't like it much.


----------



## Regnitto

3rd fan went out on my STRIX 390x in 2 years.....got tired of waiting for shipping from china for a new fan so I dug around and found an old case fan


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

xxpenguinxx said:


> Overkill is better than the tool not working.


Curious. I've never had a Dremel and cutoff wheel fail to do what I needed it to do.


----------



## RockeyDA

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Curious. I've never had a Dremel and cutoff wheel fail to do what I needed it to do.


try cutting threw steel with a dremmel, its horrible. it sucked with the Packard bell case 

















and it was almost useless for trying to cut holes in the dash of my small craftsman for a tach and volt meter. i had to use about 12 cut off weeles to cut threw a total of about 2" of 1/16" thick steel, the long side cuts i used my 7" angle grinder because it worked alot better/faster even if it looked sloppy.


----------



## doyll

RockeyDA said:


> try cutting threw steel with a dremmel, its horrible. it sucked with the Packard bell case
> snip
> and it was almost useless for trying to cut holes in the dash of my small craftsman for a tach and volt meter. i had to use about 12 cut off weeles to cut threw a total of about 2" of 1/16" thick steel, the long side cuts i used my 7" angle grinder because it worked alot better/faster even if it looked sloppy.


I've had similar experiences with low powered Dremel like tools. They just don't have the torque / power to do the job. I think people who have used more powerful tools notice the differences more than people who have only used hobby craft / home owner tools.


----------



## RockeyDA

doyll said:


> I've had similar experiences with low powered Dremel like tools. They just don't have the torque / power to do the job. I think people who have used more powerful tools notice the differences more than people who have only used hobby craft / home owner tools.


i have 3 high speed rotary tools 2 crafstman and 1 dremmel, all 3 use same plastic mold and motor. 
l
the big problem is not torqe with me, its the metal/dimond cutting wheels are SOOOO SLOW and loud, and the sandy cutt off wheels last only a few seconds on hard metal.


----------



## doyll

RockeyDA said:


> i have 3 high speed rotary tools 2 crafstman and 1 dremmel, all 3 use same plastic mold and motor.
> l
> the big problem is not torqe with me, its the metal/dimond cutting wheels are SOOOO SLOW and loud, and the sandy cutt off wheels last only a few seconds on hard metal.


"Craftsman" brand is often not what I consider very good. I do agree, quality of cutting discs/wheels makes a huge difference. Also the thickness of wheels. I have some very good 4" very thin discs that when worn down I use in small air powered cut-off tool. I got several boxes of them years ago because they were so good and hard to find. Still have a few boxes left.


----------



## RockeyDA

doyll said:


> "Craftsman" brand is often not what I consider very good. I do agree, quality of cutting discs/wheels makes a huge difference. Also the thickness of wheels. I have some very good 4" very thin discs that when worn down I use in small air powered cut-off tool. I got several boxes of them years ago because they were so good and hard to find. Still have a few boxes left.


only diffrence between the crafstman and the dremmel is sticker, mold has same number, motor is same to. also never seen a wheel much bigger than 3/4"

dremmels work great for wood, plastic, and soft metals.


----------



## doyll

RockeyDA said:


> only diffrence between the crafstman and the dremmel is sticker, mold has same number, motor is same to. also never seen a wheel much bigger than 3/4"
> 
> dremmels work great for wood, plastic, and soft metals.


They are home use hobby tool. I prefer better, but that's my choice.


----------



## Bill Owen

I use the B&D RTX, motor has better torque than Dremel, but fits Dremel attachments and less $$$

Amazon link, https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC


----------



## doyll

I have and use B&D RTX occasionally, but usually use air tools. They don't have as heavy a motor creating strong gyroscopic effect so are easier to move around.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> try cutting threw steel with a dremmel, its horrible. it sucked with the Packard bell case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it was almost useless for trying to cut holes in the dash of my small craftsman for a tach and volt meter. i had to use about 12 cut off weeles to cut threw a total of about 2" of 1/16" thick steel, the long side cuts i used my 7" angle grinder because it worked alot better/faster even if it looked sloppy.


You must be forcing the wheel or trying to make the cut with the center of the wheel forced into the leading edge of the cut. You have to let the wheel do the work and keep the angle of the edge of the wheel contacting the leading edge of the cut shallow. It does require a bit of patience but the results are much cleaner and more accurate. You can also work in tighter spaces.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> only diffrence between the crafstman and the dremmel is sticker, mold has same number, motor is same to. also never seen a wheel much bigger than 3/4"
> 
> dremmels work great for wood, plastic, and soft metals.


Dremmel has a cutoff wheel that is 1 1/2" in diameter that uses the EZ-Lock mandrel. The only reason I don't use my EZ-Lock wheels much is I already have a bunch of the older 1" (not 3/4") wheels I want to use up. I've had no problems cutting steel with my Dremmel.


----------



## RockeyDA

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Dremmel has a cutoff wheel that is 1 1/2" in diameter that uses the EZ-Lock mandrel. The only reason I don't use my EZ-Lock wheels much is I already have a bunch of the older 1" (not 3/4") wheels I want to use up. I've had no problems cutting steel with my Dremmel.


well i still have a few cut off wheels left, ile have to make a video on how bad they are on steel, then compare it to my angle grinder. btw another problem these dremel wheels have is you need a super steady hand and cant let the metal get to hot or the bit explodes. with my angle grinder i have got the metal so hot it coght my pants on fire and only reason i did not get burn was my boots.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> well i still have a few cut off wheels left, ile have to make a video on how bad they are on steel, then compare it to my angle grinder. btw another problem these dremel wheels have is you need a super steady hand and cant let the metal get to hot or the bit explodes. with my angle grinder i have got the metal so hot it coght my pants on fire and only reason i did not get burn was my boots.


My hands are old and shaky (heck, I'm approaching 70) and I don't have much trouble controlling my Dremmel (I do find that using the angle attachment often helps with control). As far as breaking wheels goes, you must be digging the wheel too deep into the cut (which would also help explain why you wear them out so quickly). The wheel should never go any deeper that just barely penetrating the thickness of what you are cutting.

Check out this video to see how to properly use a Dremmel cutoff wheel. Note how little of the disk actually penetrates the metal at any time. Granted, this is aluminum but steel isn't much slower. You have to use a light touch and let the tool do the work or you will wear down the disk prematurely and actually slow down the cut. If you hear the Dremmel slowing down more than slightly, you are forcing the wheel too hard.






Btw, I would use files to smooth the cut, not a grinding drum like shown in the video. You can easily wear out those drums in a hurry whereas a good file will last for years if used correctly. It's also much easier and faster to file accurately to the layout line with files than with a grinding drum. Even with my arthritic, old hands, I much prefer filing to grinding to clean up a cut. If you have to use rubber U-channel to cover up an edge to make it look good, you didn't cut and file it correctly.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Dremels are gutless junk. I'll use a die grinder if I'm removing any quantity of material.

Something like,
https://www.grainger.com/product/30...4117!&ef_id=Vb0oSgAAAUSZcwkI:20180426192342:s

Also, pretty sure the other guy is talking about the little red disks that go away in about 2 seconds, not the bonded cutoff wheel like you have, Fitzgerald.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I just bought a pack of the ez locks. I have a bunch of the tiny wheels but they're a pain to change out. I might get that B&D RTX so I have a spare to carry around.

Made another Xbox HD cable. I wonder if I can find a company that will sell just the AV connector. I'd like to make them using properly shielded cable, or make it a box similar to the original from MS, instead of the whole cable bundle.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

nvidiaftw12 said:


> Dremels are gutless junk. I'll use a die grinder if I'm removing any quantity of material.
> 
> Something like,
> https://www.grainger.com/product/30...4117!&ef_id=Vb0oSgAAAUSZcwkI:20180426192342:s
> 
> Also, pretty sure the other guy is talking about the little red disks that go away in about 2 seconds, not the bonded cutoff wheel like you have, Fitzgerald.


I use both kinds and they both hold up just fine.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

xxpenguinxx said:


> I just bought a pack of the ez locks. I have a bunch of the tiny wheels but they're a pain to change out...


Although the EZ-Locks are more convenient (I like them more for the larger diameter and that they have some give in the mount), you can change out the old style wheels without a screwdriver. The trick is to just tighten the little screw by hand (the last few turns can be made by pushing a finger or thumb on the top of the little screw and twisting the screw) until it touches the wheel, then gently turn the wheel itself to continue tightening it. Loosening it just involves again turning the wheel itself, only counterclockwise, then finish backing out the screw.


----------



## toolmaker03

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> I use both kinds and they both hold up just fine.
> 
> View attachment 165145


no, no, no, come on now, it does not look like any of those are the cheap, break if you sneeze to hard cutting wheels, that come with the dremel.
I have used them to cut thin plastic, but trying to cut anything metal, and I just break them. I just got a good 1/32" grinding wheel for my dremel, and it cuts metal great.

I do prefer a die grinder, if I need to cut metal. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CCZTF8...8H&pd_rd_r=C9GQ4AK07JEECC9AG4AG&pd_rd_w=tK8wh


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

toolmaker03 said:


> no, no, no, come on now, it does not look like any of those are the cheap, break if you sneeze to hard cutting wheels, that come with the dremel.
> I have used them to cut thin plastic, but trying to cut anything metal, and I just break them. I just got a good 1/32" grinding wheel for my dremel, and it cuts metal great.
> 
> I do prefer a die grinder, if I need to cut metal.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CCZTF8...8H&pd_rd_r=C9GQ4AK07JEECC9AG4AG&pd_rd_w=tK8wh


Good grief, they have the word Dremmel printed right on them! What is your prejudice against Dremmel? I almost never break their disks (I can't remember the last time I broke one and I've been using them a lot in the past couple years).


----------



## circeseye

if you need more hp or speed that a dremmel cant provide use a rotozip. it will take all the attachments that work with a dremal. yea its a little heavier and bigger but it will work like a beast. only drawback is its one speed. but you can hack add a limiter on the cord to slow it down


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> nvidiaftw12 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dremels are gutless junk. I'll use a die grinder if I'm removing any quantity of material.
> 
> Something like,
> https://www.grainger.com/product/30...4117!&ef_id=Vb0oSgAAAUSZcwkI:20180426192342:s
> 
> Also, pretty sure the other guy is talking about the little red disks that go away in about 2 seconds, not the bonded cutoff wheel like you have, Fitzgerald.
> 
> 
> 
> I use both kinds and they both hold up just fine.
> 
> View attachment 165145
Click to expand...

No mate. Those are both bonded reinforced wheels. Super hard to break and last a long time. I'm talking about the red ones with no clothes reinforcement which are very weak and short lived.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

nvidiaftw12 said:


> No mate. Those are both bonded reinforced wheels. Super hard to break and last a long time. I'm talking about the red ones with no clothes reinforcement which are very weak and short lived.


The smaller ones that came with my current Dremmel (the battery operated one I bought two years ago to replace the ancient corded one my Daddy gave me around 30 years ago) were the reinforced ones, like the ones in the picture. I haven't seen the red ones in years. If you don't like the red ones, don't use them, use the good ones; they aren't that expensive. Seriously, would you use inferior blades, etc. in any tool just because they came with it? I usually chuck those right away rather than waste my time and work with them (or save them for serious abuse).


----------



## nvidiaftw12

A: They're thinner and are the only thing that works in certain applications (like recutting vice jaws)

B: I'm nearly 1/4 your age and in college. Money is a scarce resource.

C: The most important factor is that I didn't know anything like that existed.

Also, I don't do a lot of dremel work. I'm much more likely to cut a piece of 3" round steel bar then I am to cut .020 aluminum.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

nvidiaftw12 said:


> A: They're thinner and are the only thing that works in certain applications (like recutting vice jaws)...


Which ones are your talking about?



nvidiaftw12 said:


> B: I'm nearly 1/4 your age and in college. Money is a scarce resource...


Been there, done that (broke college student). Even though it was tough to scrape up the scratch to buy better quality, I managed it because it saved money in the long run. You can buy a pack of five of the good cutoff wheels for $14-16 at places like Ace Hardware and Home Centers. If you use the cutoff wheels correctly, they will last a long time, even on sheet steel. Btw, most of the YouTube videos of seen of people demonstrating how to use Dremmel cutoff wheels are using them correctly; they plunge the wheels too deep into the cut, use too much pressure, or both. Use them correctly and they will last a long time.



nvidiaftw12 said:


> ...C: The most important factor is that I didn't know anything like that existed.
> 
> Also, I don't do a lot of dremel work. I'm much more likely to cut a piece of 3" round steel bar then I am to cut .020 aluminum.


Most of the cutting I did recently with the Dremmel was on .0625" aluminum. I have cut some steel, including drill rod, using the Dremmel wheels. For long, straight cuts on sheet metal (aluminum and steel) not attached to anything, I use a 5" 18v circular saw with a fine tooth disposable carbide blade. This is one exception to buying better blades since cutting sheet metal dulls blades fairly fast and the cost of labor for properly sharpening carbide saw teeth (which isn't a DIY job) is outrageous if you are going to be quickly dulling them.

For shorter cuts, including some curved cuts, I sometimes use a jigsaw with a 32TPI metal cutting blade. Usually not my tool of choice since the cuts tend to be rough but sometimes it works out better.

If the piece is unattached and will fit, I use a small bandsaw with a 9" throat and 3 1/2" cutting depth. I have cut 7/8" 6061 T6 aluminum that way. This is one case where it really pays to buy good blades. The 59 1/2" ones you get in the Home Centers for around $10-12 are junk; they flex too much and dull quickly. I get mine from a vendor in CA that cost $25-30 (plus shipping). Those do not flex if the guides are set correctly and they will last ten times longer than the cheap ones.

I use the Dremmel on really short cuts or cuts on sheet metal, steel or aluminum that's attached to something, like a computer case, or inside cuts that that would be too difficult to do with saws. I used one of the smaller 1" wheels to cut a window in a .0625" 6061 T6 aluminum panel 8 1/4" x 16" without any problems. I cut out the top of a steel computer case once using a Dremel with no problems (I used no more than two of the smaller wheels).

Btw, 6061 T6 is pretty tough stuff for aluminum. It's hard enough it doesn't bend well without cracking or breaking but it makes great panels since it doesn't bend easily. It's also great for structural extrusions. Compared to most common aluminum alloys, it's oak to poplar.

For something like 3" steel round bar. I would use either a hacksaw (not as hard as it sounds as long as you use the full length of the blade, don't rush, and don't force the blade; good quality blades pay off here as well) or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. If I had one, I would use a abrasive cutoff disk in a chop saw.

The secret to using Dremmel cutoff wheels is to use a light touch, a slow feed, and don't rush the job. Most people are too ham fisted. Btw, I had some machine shop and welding training back in college, worked i.n a machine shop for a short while, and my daddy was a machinist (mostly a model maker although he did some tool and die work).


----------



## billbartuska

A few years ago they started selling circular saw blades designed specifically for metal cutting.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

billbartuska said:


> A few years ago they started selling circular saw blades designed specifically for metal cutting.


Actually, they have been available for decades. I just couldn't find any locally when I needed one (shopping in the Phoenix megalopolis is like shopping in a tiny, backwater village  ) so I just got a regular, disposable carbide blade and it has been working surprisingly well on hard aluminum (I had expected it to be dull by now).


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Which ones are your talking about?
> 
> Been there, done that (broke college student). Even though it was tough to scrape up the scratch to buy better quality, I managed it because it saved money in the long run. You can buy a pack of five of the good cutoff wheels for $14-16 at places like Ace Hardware and Home Centers. If you use the cutoff wheels correctly, they will last a long time, even on sheet steel. Btw, most of the YouTube videos of seen of people demonstrating how to use Dremmel cutoff wheels are using them correctly; they plunge the wheels too deep into the cut, use too much pressure, or both. Use them correctly and they will last a long time.
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the cutting I did recently with the Dremmel was on .0625" aluminum. I have cut some steel, including drill rod, using the Dremmel wheels. For long, straight cuts on sheet metal (aluminum and steel) not attached to anything, I use a 5" 18v circular saw with a fine tooth disposable carbide blade. This is one exception to buying better blades since cutting sheet metal dulls blades fairly fast and the cost of labor for properly sharpening carbide saw teeth (which isn't a DIY job) is outrageous if you are going to be quickly dulling them.
> 
> For shorter cuts, including some curved cuts, I sometimes use a jigsaw with a 32TPI metal cutting blade. Usually not my tool of choice since the cuts tend to be rough but sometimes it works out better.
> 
> If the piece is unattached and will fit, I use a small bandsaw with a 9" throat and 3 1/2" cutting depth. I have cut 7/8" 6061 T6 aluminum that way. This is one case where it really pays to buy good blades. The 59 1/2" ones you get in the Home Centers for around $10-12 are junk; they flex too much and dull quickly. I get mine from a vendor in CA that cost $25-30 (plus shipping). Those do not flex if the guides are set correctly and they will last ten times longer than the cheap ones.
> 
> I use the Dremmel on really short cuts or cuts on sheet metal, steel or aluminum that's attached to something, like a computer case, or inside cuts that that would be too difficult to do with saws. I used one of the smaller 1" wheels to cut a window in a .0625" 6061 T6 aluminum panel 8 1/4" x 16" without any problems. I cut out the top of a steel computer case once using a Dremel with no problems (I used no more than two of the smaller wheels).
> 
> Btw, 6061 T6 is pretty tough stuff for aluminum. It's hard enough it doesn't bend well without cracking or breaking but it makes great panels since it doesn't bend easily. It's also great for structural extrusions. Compared to most common aluminum alloys, it's oak to poplar.
> 
> For something like 3" steel round bar. I would use either a hacksaw (not as hard as it sounds as long as you use the full length of the blade, don't rush, and don't force the blade; good quality blades pay off here as well) or a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. If I had one, I would use a abrasive cutoff disk in a chop saw.
> 
> The secret to using Dremmel cutoff wheels is to use a light touch, a slow feed, and don't rush the job. Most people are too ham fisted. Btw, I had some machine shop and welding training back in college, worked i.n a machine shop for a short while, and my daddy was a machinist (mostly a model maker although he did some tool and die work).


Red ones.

I'm young but not naive. I've cut my fair share of things. For 3" round bar I'd use a powerhacksaw or horizontal bandsaw. For plate, I'd use my circular saw or table saw.

And abrasive chopsaw would never make it through 3" bar. They are rated for up to 1/4" and generally terrible tools for anything thicker. I'm pretty ham fisted though, I don't have time to dawdle with dremels.



billbartuska said:


> A few years ago they started selling circular saw blades designed specifically for metal cutting.



Been there, tried that, made a video on it.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

nvidiaftw12 said:


> ...And abrasive chopsaw would never make it through 3" bar. They are rated for up to 1/4" and generally terrible tools for anything thicker. I'm pretty ham fisted though, I don't have time to dawdle with dremels...


Curious. I've seen bigger stock than 3" round bar cut in chop saws. Granted, those were big abrasive chop saws. The one in the machine shop I worked in could handle 8" stock easily. We also had a saw made by Trenjaeger in Germany that used a 3' diameter carbide toothed circular blade. They had two blades for the saw: one to use while the other was sent out of State for sharpening and the occasional retoothing (as big as the Phoenix area is, there wasn't anywhere local to get the blades that large sharpened, let alone retoothed). I forget just how big of stock it could cut but remember watching it cut some 6" steel plate like it was butter.

The problem with youngsters like you is you lack patience. In the long run, learning what the correct tools to use are and how to use them properly will save you time and money. I use my Dremmel whenever it is easier and faster to use, which is pretty frequently. There is a video made by, I think, MNPC on how to cut a window in a computer case panel with a Dremmel that claims a battery operated Dremmel doesn't have the power to do the job yet I was easily able to do just that with time to spare on my two batteries (their cutting technique was rather slow and buried the wheel too deeply into the work, reducing wheel life  ).


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Made a bowl holder for the pup.


----------



## Pawelr98

6C19Π (6S19P) triode as output tube, EABC80 ("Tube IC" as it has three diodes and single triode inside) as preamp.

Seems to work OK but I haven't tested it on big speakers.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Finished modifying my roof rack. Now I can extend it without worrying about the rear rack pulling off.


----------



## anywhere

Oh yes.

Our chop saw at work is 460v 3ph belt driven... Toothed belt driven....guaranteed to not slip. 

I can hang on the pull down bar and that ***** keeps turning.

At times if you do that the wheel will disappear instead of stock you're trying to cut.

And I'm in the process of sweet talking sheet metal guys to run a program through the trump to punch out my custom case pieces so I can tig it together...

304ss.....mmmmm.....



Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Curious. I've seen bigger stock than 3" round bar cut in chop saws. Granted, those were big abrasive chop saws. The one in the machine shop I worked in could handle 8" stock easily. We also had a saw made by Trenjaeger in Germany that used a 3' diameter carbide toothed circular blade. They had two blades for the saw: one to use while the other was sent out of State for sharpening and the occasional retoothing (as big as the Phoenix area is, there wasn't anywhere local to get the blades that large sharpened, let alone retoothed). I forget just how big of stock it could cut but remember watching it cut some 6" steel plate like it was butter.
> 
> The problem with youngsters like you is you lack patience. In the long run, learning what the correct tools to use are and how to use them properly will save you time and money. I use my Dremmel whenever it is easier and faster to use, which is pretty frequently. There is a video made by, I think, MNPC on how to cut a window in a computer case panel with a Dremmel that claims a battery operated Dremmel doesn't have the power to do the job yet I was easily able to do just that with time to spare on my two batteries (their cutting technique was rather slow and buried the wheel too deeply into the work, reducing wheel life  ).


Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


----------



## RockeyDA

well sorry i never made the dremmel video i said i was going to make but i ran into a problem. i had 2 cut off wheels left. 1 shatterd in the dremmel bag, and the other, when i was doing a test fit to see if i could get in to a tight space with a wheel that small, i axidently bumped the drive shaft (of the tractor) and shatterd that one. sears just closed and tractor supply sells dremmels some times but not the bits. so my cutt of wheel days on my dremmel are done till i find another store that sells bits or grange fair at the end of the summer.

also i was wrong about the cut off wheel size, there not 3/4" there half inch, guess i just remembered them being bigger.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> well sorry i never made the dremmel video i said i was going to make but i ran into a problem. i had 2 cut off wheels left. 1 shatterd in the dremmel bag, and the other, when i was doing a test fit to see if i could get in to a tight space with a wheel that small, i axidently bumped the drive shaft (of the tractor) and shatterd that one. sears just closed and tractor supply sells dremmels some times but not the bits. so my cutt of wheel days on my dremmel are done till i find another store that sells bits or grange fair at the end of the summer.
> 
> also i was wrong about the cut off wheel size, there not 3/4" there half inch, guess i just remembered them being bigger.


Try hardware stores (the local Ace Hardware I haunt...er... frequent has them), home centers (the Home Depot near me has them), hobby stores, craft stores, etc.


----------



## RockeyDA

tractor supply is only hardware store close enough for me to get to on the tractor without hitting a big road. closest hobby store is about 40min away by car. home depo is way on the other side of town, i would just need to find a ride. because im not trying to get 25-30mi of walking in on 1 day. i wonder if i can get cut off wheels that dont explode if you pick them up wrong. i tried getting metal diamond ones but they were useless on metal.


----------



## chrisjames61

RockeyDA said:


> to bad you dont have my kind of coworkers, we turn a blind eye to safty violations so often we start to forget what were violating. i dont think the chemical mask has been worn since i worked here other than being dusted off for safty inspectors. and i dont think my pay grade is allowed in the hydraulic press or boiler room but i got the damn keys to both and im in both often. because of common sense the worst injury i have seen is some one with a bloody sock from pushing a full packing cart in to there ankle, my worst was slipping on ice in the parking lot 3 years ago.
> 
> if my department had its own building i could do what ever i wanted really. like have my dman boom box and subwoofer back in my work area.


I have been witness to about a half dozen terrible industrial accidents in my lifetime. Horrific you could say. Turning a blind eye to any safety "violation" is just insanity.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

So order them online and have them delivered to you.


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

started off with a napkin drawing on my phone.

some broken sink parts, a broken telescope lens, a porthole from a subwoofer and some other tid bits later I had a mock up



















then as an end result I had a venturi ram air intake for my old car.

Thing worked pretty well.


----------



## chrisjames61

ObiWanShinob1 said:


> started off with a napkin drawing on my phone.
> 
> some broken sink parts, a broken telescope lens, a porthole from a subwoofer and some other tid bits later I had a mock up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then as an end result I had a venturi ram air intake for my old car.
> 
> Thing worked pretty well.


K&N let in way too much particulate matter.


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

chrisjames61 said:


> K&N let in way too much particulate matter.


wow lol, stock airbox is horrible in the stock 3800 series II. I gained 5 hp the first day I got it by taking a plastic insert out which was a muffling device to quiet the motor. Get out of here with your brand bashing lol.

By the way that motor can literally run on rat turds. I could probably have taken the air filter off and run it for 50,000 miles, then after enough carbon buildup chokes it to the point of not starting, I could take the manifolds off, spray carb cleaner, put them back on and it would run like new.

My engine didn't have the tolerances of a BMW motor with highly viscous race oil to worry about those tiny bits of polen ruining my motor. By the way the whole thing was free, and when I got my car there were acorns and a sock in my air box. Think I did okay for an upgrade.


----------



## Martin778

A sock...that's one way to do it, lol.


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

Martin778 said:


> A sock...that's one way to do it, lol.


I didn't put it there lol it came like that


----------



## RockeyDA

chrisjames61 said:


> I have been witness to about a half dozen terrible industrial accidents in my lifetime. Horrific you could say. Turning a blind eye to any safety "violation" is just insanity.


you dont need safeties if you use common sense and pay attention.


----------



## SavantStrike

RockeyDA said:


> you dont need safeties if you use common sense and pay attention.


People get tired, get sick, and get complacent. Any of those three things is enough to turn an everyday task into a tragedy.

Earning a living shouldn't cost someone life and/or limb. Safety standards are there to prevent this.


----------



## TheBadBull

RockeyDA said:


> you dont need safeties if you use common sense and pay attention.


----------



## RockeyDA

i hate safty inspections, we have a week of following the rules and cleaning.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> you dont need safeties if you use common sense and pay attention.





RockeyDA said:


> i hate safty inspections, we have a week of following the rules and cleaning.


You are the kind of person safety rules and inspections were made for (the inspections should be random and unannounced in your case). If you followed the rules and kept things clean in the first place, there would be no need for frantic cleaning prior to cleaning. Most safety regulations are written in the blood of accident victims.

I worked in industry for 30 years (mostly warehousing but also power line construction and machine shop) and it was my experience that safety regulations and safe work practices actually increased productivity and reduced accidents.


----------



## SavantStrike

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> You are the kind of person safety rules and inspections were made for (the inspections should be random and unannounced in your case). If you followed the rules and kept things clean in the first place, there would be no need for frantic cleaning prior to cleaning. Most safety regulations are written in the blood of accident victims.
> 
> I worked in industry for 30 years (mostly warehousing but also power line construction and machine shop) and it was my experience that safety regulations and safe work practices actually increased productivity and reduced accidents.


This.

90 percent of the time safety standards make you more productive if written correctly. The last 10 percent of the time the standards keep workers from becoming a statistic.

I don't have as much experience as Lady F or ChrisJames, but I've got several years in petrochem under my belt, and I got to talk to some of the old timers. Before modern safety standards people died, often horrifically.

As far as respirators go, I watched a good man and a close family friend die of mesothelioma. Not a good way to go. People like him died before we understood the dangers of prolonged exposure.


----------



## doyll

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> You are the kind of person safety rules and inspections were made for (the inspections should be random and unannounced in your case). If you followed the rules and kept things clean in the first place, there would be no need for frantic cleaning prior to cleaning. Most safety regulations are written in the blood of accident victims.
> 
> I worked in industry for 30 years (mostly warehousing but also power line construction and machine shop) and it was my experience that safety regulations and safe work practices actually increased productivity and reduced accidents.


This 



SavantStrike said:


> This.
> 
> 90 percent of the time safety standards make you more productive if written correctly. The last 10 percent of the time the standards keep workers from becoming a statistic.
> 
> I don't have as much experience as Lady F or ChrisJames, but I've got several years in petrochem under my belt, and I got to talk to some of the old timers. Before modern safety standards people died, often horrifically.
> 
> As far as respirators go, I watched a good man and a close family friend die of mesothelioma. Not a good way to go. People like him died before we understood the dangers of prolonged exposure.


And this 

Sure, some of the safety requirements are a little overboard, but with rare exception they save lives and don't hinder production when applied properly. 

People having work place accidents are like horseback riders getting thrown off, climbers falling or motorcycle riders having an accident .. everyone who has been doing it for awhile has had some, be the miner or major depends on safety equipment and procedures. Claiming you haven't some accidents and very close calls tells the experienced you are either new to it or just won't admit it.


----------



## RockeyDA

doyll said:


> This
> 
> 
> And this
> 
> Sure, some of the safety requirements are a little overboard, but with rare exception they save lives and don't hinder production when applied properly.
> 
> People having work place accidents are like horseback riders getting thrown off, climbers falling or motorcycle riders having an accident .. everyone who has been doing it for awhile has had some, be the miner or major depends on safety equipment and procedures. Claiming you haven't some accidents and very close calls tells the experienced you are either new to it or just won't admit it.


well worst injury laundry ever had was some one running over there own ankle with a packing cart. it bled but the day went on. and that is literally the worst injury ever in this laundry.

if we obeyed rules, i cant go more than 2 steps up a latter, if the hydroponic press messes up i have to wait for maintenance, i cant get near a chemical barrel, and whover dose has to were ppe (that we have never touched) and i would not be able to fire up equipment in the boiler room 30min befor i clock in. i get alot more done in a day by doing what i shoud instead of what outsiders of Landry want me to.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> well worst injury laundry ever had was some one running over there own ankle with a packing cart. it bled but the day went on. and that is literally the worst injury ever in this laundry.
> 
> if we obeyed rules, i cant go more than 2 steps up a latter, if the hydroponic press messes up i have to wait for maintenance, i cant get near a chemical barrel, and whover dose has to were ppe (that we have never touched) and i would not be able to fire up equipment in the boiler room 30min befor i clock in. i get alot more done in a day by doing what i shoud instead of what outsiders of Landry want me to.


From what you just said, it's pretty obvious you need those rules to protect yourself and others from yourself. You really need to adjust your attitude. As I said, I had 30 years working in industrial settings and watched the transition from not regard to safety to the safety oriented environment that was in place by the time I retired 14 years ago. Productivity did improve due to less downtime from preventable accidents and improperly maintained equipment. Bottom line for the company improved due to the reduced downtime, reduced insurance costs, and reduced cost of post accident medical care and repairs needed due to accidents. Equipment life was increased, reducing repair and replacement costs. I went from literally being in fear for my life and limb to being reasonably assured I would go home everyday with all the limbs and other body parts I came to work with.

Safety regulations may seem like a pain in the neck on the surface but they are usually there to protect you, whether you are bright enough to realize it or not.


----------



## RockeyDA

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> From what you just said, it's pretty obvious you need those rules to protect yourself and others from yourself. You really need to adjust your attitude. As I said, I had 30 years working in industrial settings and watched the transition from not regard to safety to the safety oriented environment that was in place by the time I retired 14 years ago. Productivity did improve due to less downtime from preventable accidents and improperly maintained equipment. Bottom line for the company improved due to the reduced downtime, reduced insurance costs, and reduced cost of post accident medical care and repairs needed due to accidents. Equipment life was increased, reducing repair and replacement costs. I went from literally being in fear for my life and limb to being reasonably assured I would go home everyday with all the limbs and other body parts I came to work with.
> 
> Safety regulations may seem like a pain in the neck on the surface but they are usually there to protect you, whether you are bright enough to realize it or not.


if i did not do what i do i would defnitly loose over 1.5hr of productivity in a day, would lose 30min on the boiler alone, some days a high grade psu employing dont show up till 7am and we need to be moving by 6am. and some days that press messes up alot. i do not feel like im in danger, and like i said. pratcily 0 injuries in my department, no one has ever had to fill out one of thoes reports. like if a load gets stuck in the press, p put the ram off then hit the E-stop i know my way arround this place and there is SDS on all the chemicals. i know whats going to happen if i get even a drop of the 15% hydrosodium chloride on me. 

common sense is better than any safty


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> if i did not do what i do i would defnitly loose over 1.5hr of productivity in a day, would lose 30min on the boiler alone, some days a high grade psu employing dont show up till 7am and we need to be moving by 6am. and some days that press messes up alot. i do not feel like im in danger, and like i said. pratcily 0 injuries in my department, no one has ever had to fill out one of thoes reports. like if a load gets stuck in the press, p put the ram off then hit the E-stop i know my way arround this place and there is SDS on all the chemicals. i know whats going to happen if i get even a drop of the 15% hydrosodium chloride on me.
> 
> common sense is better than any safty


Common sense is an oxymoron. It's people with attitudes like yours who have the accidents. Just because you haven't had an accident yet doesn't mean you won't. It just means you've been lucky so far.


----------



## RockeyDA

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Common sense is an oxymoron. It's people with attitudes like yours who have the accidents. Just because you haven't had an accident yet doesn't mean you won't. It just means you've been lucky so far.


i guarantee you its not luck, same with my co-workers their mostly farm boy's and girls, they work hard and dont put up with BS.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> i guarantee you its not luck, same with my co-workers their mostly farm boy's and girls, they work hard and dont put up with BS.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

What's the smallest automotive or motorcycle muffler you know of? My mower is too loud.


----------



## RockeyDA

xxpenguinxx said:


> What's the smallest automotive or motorcycle muffler you know of? My mower is too loud.


im used to trying to make those things louder. the stock muffler from a briggs opposing twin (front mount boxy style) will make the exhaust so quiet you mostly just here the air blowing from fly wheel.

or if you have a car muffler laying around you can go to the hardware store and up sclae your pipe till it fits if your using a single. if you live anywhere near state collage i can give you a muffler from my oppy, i will never use one unless im trying to sell something that cuts grass.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I have a stock civic/integra muffler laying around but it's a bit big for a push mower. 

I found this article silencing a generator. I want to do something similar just not as big so it's not sticking out.
http://joelsgarage.blogspot.com/2006/03/quiet-generator-muffler.html


----------



## RockeyDA

xxpenguinxx said:


> I have a stock civic/integra muffler laying around but it's a bit big for a push mower.
> 
> I found this article silencing a generator. I want to do something similar just not as big so it's not sticking out.
> http://joelsgarage.blogspot.com/2006/03/quiet-generator-muffler.html


so is this a Briggs flat head with the screw on style muffler?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

RockeyDA said:


> so is this a Briggs flat head with the screw on style muffler?


Idk the type. It has this style muffler.


----------



## RockeyDA

xxpenguinxx said:


> Idk the type. It has this style muffler.


well i dont know if that motor would even have a round exhaust port. i think that stile of muffler is on the OHV motors witch i have no experience with
the flat heads just use a threaded pipe on muffler.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
Might be more appropriate here 
x99 Sabertooth added mono block and another ek top pump just like my x299 rig matter of fact they are twins no image of the x299 though
Put my ek water block on my ftw3 as well it's working much better now assembled right this time


----------



## chrisjames61

ObiWanShinob1 said:


> wow lol, stock airbox is horrible in the stock 3800 series II. I gained 5 hp the first day I got it by taking a plastic insert out which was a muffling device to quiet the motor. Get out of here with your brand bashing lol.
> 
> By the way that motor can literally run on rat turds. I could probably have taken the air filter off and run it for 50,000 miles, then after enough carbon buildup chokes it to the point of not starting, I could take the manifolds off, spray carb cleaner, put them back on and it would run like new.
> 
> My engine didn't have the tolerances of a BMW motor with highly viscous race oil to worry about those tiny bits of polen ruining my motor. By the way the whole thing was free, and when I got my car there were acorns and a sock in my air box. Think I did okay for an upgrade.


It isn't "brand bashing" It is about these filters letting in particulate matter that is many microns over what a paper filter lets in. This stuff is garbage. You are spewing nonsense. 5 extra horsepower huh? Did you put the motor on a dyno?


----------



## chrisjames61

RockeyDA said:


> you dont need safeties if you use common sense and pay attention.


That is really, really dumb. Regulations and safeguards are in place because people don't use common sense or pay attention. You can pay attention and still be hurt. Ever hear of the word "accident"? I have seen men lose hands, arms, fingers and eyes and two fatalities.


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

chrisjames61 said:


> It isn't "brand bashing" It is about these filters letting in particulate matter that is many microns over what a paper filter lets in. This stuff is garbage. You are spewing nonsense. 5 extra horsepower huh? Did you put the motor on a dyno?





Rivperformance forums; said:


> A very simple and inexpensive way to get a slight power increase is to remove your car's air intake box and take out some of the restrictive baffles and acoustic silencers to improve intake air flow. More air in = more fuel added by the car's PCM, which means more power is made. This mod is commonly referred to as "gutting the box", and it's only needed on '96 and up models ('95 came without noise-reducing restrictions). Here's how to do it:
> 
> STEP 1: Remove the cover.
> 
> - loosen the wing nut clamp on the rubber air intake tube.
> - remove the tube from the air box, rotate the tube upward so you have some room to work.
> - disconnect the two-wire plug from the air box. This is your IAT sensor.
> - there are two plastic clips on the side of the box facing the engine. pop them open and the cover with come off.
> - remove the filter. At this point, you could just add a K&N filter panel (use #33-2250 or #22-2086, they are both identical) or the filter of your choice for better air flow. Make sure you adhere the foam seal around the lip of the air box. If you want to open things up even more to hear some cool blower whine, proceed to the next step...
> 
> STEP 2: Remove and gut the box.
> 
> - there are two hex-head screws holding the bottom portion of the air box to the car. Use a socket wrench to remove the screws, then lift the box up and out of the engine bay.
> - there is a piece of red plastic baffle held in with plastic welds. Cut or drill the welds, or just pull on the red piece until they break, then remove the baffle and then you'll see a light grey plastic thing with multiple chambers. Remove this and discard all pieces except for the two halves of the air box itself.
> - if you have a Dremel tool, you can grind away the sharp opening in the cover where the intake tube attaches, and any other obstacles that might impede air flow.
> 
> STEP 3: Reinstall the box.
> 
> - Reinstall the bottom part of the box. It may be loose without the grey piece, so use a zip tie to secure the box to a part of the car. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the box and looped the tie around a piece of metal below it.
> - install your filter panel, then replace the top cover of the air box. Don't forget to plug the IAT sensor back in!
> 
> The nice part about this mod is that it takes only an hour to do, and you'll notice the difference instantly, but no one will suspect you've done a thing to the car because the air box will still look exactly the way it used to (stock).
> 
> Understand that along with about a few extra horsepower, you'll hear an increase in the sound level produced by the supercharger. In other words, your car will now make a distinct "whine" when you get on the throttle, yet during most normal driving you won't notice much difference.
> 
> For about $60 you can invest in a K&N high-flow air filter. The K&N is supposed to improve flow over the OEM filter, and it is reusable.
> 
> Pictures (Thanks Orca):


System admin for the performance forums of my old car probably knows more than you do about engines, dude got well over 380 hp and 400ft lb of torque out of the good old 3800 series II 3.8L V6 supercharged with the Eaton M90 gen III twin screw roots blower derived from the grand national GNX motor; with bolt on's only. That motor can make over 600hp stock bottom end and can make over 500 with a top swap from NA to supercharged due to higher compression, and over 800 with forged internals no problem. 5hp is a guestimate, but you definitely gain power by gutting that stock airbox because buick wanted the motor to be more quite. You may think I'm some idiot, but oh well. I didn't even care about the particulate matter because the non supercharged I had could literally run on rat turds and was one of the most reliable engines EVER made. I didn't care about the supercharged version having it because those rotors spinning at 14,000 RPM for the intake charge probably made it not matter so much for anything that could get passed the air filter.

power gains from gutting the stock airbox far exceeds just the 0.14% gained from switching to paper from K&N filter.

it's not like I was running a high tolerance motor with race oil. Why would I care about the tiny bits of matter that could get in with an engine so reliable in a car that was worth less than 2 grand?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

ObiWanShinob1 said:


> System admin for the performance forums of my old car probably knows more than you do about engines, dude got well over 380 hp and 400ft lb of torque out of the good old 3800 series II 3.8L V6 supercharged with the Eaton M90 gen III twin screw roots blower derived from the grand national GNX motor; with bolt on's only. That motor can make over 600hp stock bottom end and can make over 500 with a top swap from NA to supercharged due to higher compression, and over 800 with forged internals no problem. 5hp is a guestimate, but you definitely gain power by gutting that stock airbox because buick wanted the motor to be more quite. You may think I'm some idiot, but oh well. I didn't even care about the particulate matter because the non supercharged I had could literally run on rat turds and was one of the most reliable engines EVER made. I didn't care about the supercharged version having it because those rotors spinning at 14,000 RPM for the intake charge probably made it not matter so much for anything that could get passed the air filter.
> 
> power gains from gutting the stock airbox far exceeds just the 0.14% gained from switching to paper from K&N filter.
> 
> it's not like I was running a high tolerance motor with race oil. Why would I care about the tiny bits of matter that could get in with an engine so reliable in a car that was worth less than 2 grand?


After this load of baloney, I'm agreeing with chrisjames61.


----------



## BlackVenom

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> After this load of baloney, I'm agreeing with chrisjames61.


The only thing that was true was that the 3800 was super reliable - more so w/ aluminum LIM elbows and aluminum uim. I've seen ~400hp fwd set ups - or transmission killers. Not sure what can be made in a rwd set up. The GNX was turbo, not supercharged, and in todays world, isn't that fast - and the 3800 was indeed used in it. Beautiful car though.


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> After this load of baloney, I'm agreeing with chrisjames61.


did you not see the part where the resonator baffle thingy blocked airflow? That thing blocks at LEAST 5 hp worth of engine constrictions. You guys are basically attacking me because I made something cool for free 



BlackVenom said:


> The only thing that was true was that the 3800 was super reliable - more so w/ aluminum LIM elbows and aluminum uim. I've seen ~400hp fwd set ups - or transmission killers. Not sure what can be made in a rwd set up. The GNX was turbo, not supercharged, and in todays world, isn't that fast - and the 3800 was indeed used in it. Beautiful car though.







I said it DERIVED from the GNX I didn't say it was the GNX motor. way to twist my words.

Pretty sure that GTP was faster than a bughatti veyron in a 1/4 mile. some slow car huh. for a car you can have for under 1500 bucks, 3800 supercharged is a FANTASTIC motor in terms of reliability and performance.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

ObiWanShinob1 said:


> did you not see the part where the resonator baffle thingy blocked airflow? That thing blocks at LEAST 5 hp worth of engine constrictions. You guys are basically attacking me because I made something cool for free
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1IBLusB3VM
> 
> I said it DERIVED from the GNX I didn't say it was the GNX motor. way to twist my words.
> 
> Pretty sure that GTP was faster than a bughatti veyron in a 1/4 mile. some slow car huh. for a car you can have for under 1500 bucks, 3800 supercharged is a FANTASTIC motor in terms of reliability and performance.


You just keep digging yourself in deeper. You need to quit before you get in any deeper.


----------



## toolmaker03

ObiWanShinob1 said:


> did you not see the part where the resonator baffle thingy blocked airflow? That thing blocks at LEAST 5 hp worth of engine constrictions. You guys are basically attacking me because I made something cool for free
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1IBLusB3VM
> 
> I said it DERIVED from the GNX I didn't say it was the GNX motor. way to twist my words.
> 
> Pretty sure that GTP was faster than a bughatti veyron in a 1/4 mile. some slow car huh. for a car you can have for under 1500 bucks, 3800 supercharged is a FANTASTIC motor in terms of reliability and performance.


I agree that a simple project you made, has been raged on by some of the members here. I thought it looked fine and was a upgrade from the stock intake for that car. what does it matter what they think? you liked it, it felt to you like the performance of the car was improved. they have never built one like yours, so they really don't know what it did for your car. they know what similar units do for other cars, but that does not mean that yours is the same as the products made by manufactures. so take it with a grain of salt, and just say whatever, it is not like they truly know, because they never tested your car before, and after to see what the difference actually was, and nether did you.


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

Some of the worst elitists Iv'e seen on here. makes me mad when I just wanted to share some of the cool stuff I did only to find out all these people think what I did or built sucked










frankenlighter I built cause the tank of one of my lighters broke.























































passive radiator I built for the subwoofer box I built to hold me over until my third alpine type E was acquired. The sub box was stolen out of my car from my step father's tow lot so I moved on to type R's later.


all garbage though


----------



## Pawelr98

My Lenovo G510.

Standard "caddy adapters" were low quality and caused Bluescreens.

Laptop DVD drive has a sata connector with only difference beeing power pins.
So I decided to cut all power pins to make HDD fit into the standard DVD connector.

Power to the HDD is provided through single wire.
The "jumper" on power connector is there to allow spinup(drive won't start without the pins shorted).

For quite some time the HDD was running with the drive mounted using tape.

But yesterday I decided to use my newly purchased cheapo dremel to make it better.
Removed all plastic, 1950's capacitor mounting bracket, some glue(mix,generic universal glue + superglue) and it works wonderfully.


----------



## RockeyDA

chrisjames61 said:


> That is really, really dumb. Regulations and safeguards are in place because people don't use common sense or pay attention. You can pay attention and still be hurt. Ever hear of the word "accident"? I have seen men lose hands, arms, fingers and eyes and two fatalities.


i have been here 3 and a half years, only injury in whole department was some one hitting there ankle with a packing cart. you can disagree with the way we do things, but at the end of the day, we can handle our selves and no one gets hurt.


----------



## RockeyDA

since were posing performance motor stuff





im proud of dinky, since then i have re jetted the carb, made a better throttle setup, and in prosses of installing new front rims&tires, would be done with that yesterday, but i was 2 for 2 on puncturing my inner tubes. so when i get time im installing vavle stems and living that tubeless life.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> i have been here 3 and a half years, only injury in whole department was some one hitting there ankle with a packing cart. you can disagree with the way we do things, but at the end of the day, we can handle our selves and no one gets hurt.


Hmmm. 3.5 years of experience compared to my 32 years in industry. Yep, that certainly makes you more experienced in safety than I am.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Glue didn't hold up to the summer heat in my car, so this is how I'm currently holding the replacement tweeter in place. Also finished painting the dog bowl stand.


----------



## RockeyDA

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Hmmm. 3.5 years of experience compared to my 32 years in industry. Yep, that certainly makes you more experienced in safety than I am.


well you probably have had places with people that dont pay attention or are just pain dumb. were not your run of the mill batch of workers.


----------



## toolmaker03

RockeyDA said:


> well you probably have had places with people that dont pay attention or are just pain dumb. were not your run of the mill batch of workers.


well I think I have had enough of you inability to see truth, so here is a idea for you. why don't you go explain to the families of the deep water horizon, who lost loved ones, how it was there fault for not paying attention, or that they where just plain dumb. I am completely confident that you will get your just rewards for doing so. it is apparent to me that you work in a non-hazardous environment, and this is the reason for your ignorance. try working for a weapons manufacture, mining farcicality, or for that matter any kind of hazardous industry. then come on back, and tell us all about how safe you made it by working there.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

RockeyDA said:


> well you probably have had places with people that dont pay attention or are just pain dumb. were not your run of the mill batch of workers.


:lachen: Try telling that to the truck drivers, linemen, electricians, mechanics, carpenters, machinists, welders, etc. I've worked with (make sure your health and life insurance is paid up first!). I can remember when we didn't have the regulations we have now and it was downright scary!


----------



## RockeyDA

toolmaker03 said:


> well I think I have had enough of you inability to see truth, so here is a idea for you. why don't you go explain to the families of the deep water horizon, who lost loved ones, how it was there fault for not paying attention, or that they where just plain dumb. I am completely confident that you will get your just rewards for doing so. it is apparent to me that you work in a non-hazardous environment, and this is the reason for your ignorance. try working for a weapons manufacture, mining farcicality, or for that matter any kind of hazardous industry. then come on back, and tell us all about how safe you made it by working there.


you dont get it in the slightest, WERE NOT THE SAME, NOT IN SAME BOAT! and if i messed around i could easily kill my self here, but no i dont see this place as dangerous, its not like something is going to blow up because i walk up to it. and like i said before, not supposed to get into press at my pay grade, but i press the E-stop and do it any ways because it saves hours a day. that would be dangerous if i was dumb about it, but im not. if it get hurt, that would be an operator error type deal and i wold deserve it.


----------



## RockeyDA

now back on the fun stuff, i painted the wheel barrel rims white, took the old tiers off (axidently went 2 for 2 on puncturing inner tubes) put in new valve stems, and upgraded to some v treads. took dripping sweat and 3 screwdrivers to get them on but boy am i happy with the end result.

the rims are a little manged on the inside because i tried using the inner tubes first then had to remove them, buy then i was pissed and thoes v-treads are alot harder to take off than put on.









since i need to test how these cheep and now damaged rims would hold up yesterday i tried driving to the gas station, fill up on 97, then come back, while staying off road and keeping my speed above 30mph. they took the beating, i think when i get off work today im going to see if i can get one of my friends to take me to the big mud hole out of my reach. (both by road size and how much gas it wold take to get there)


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I'd straiten those rims out if you can. Wouldn't want a leak when driving down the back roads.

Here's a not so ghetto fix for my mower. The original cable was held in place with a plastic insert and kept breaking. The wire ended up rubbing and slowly cut itself apart. I replaced it with a generic go-kart throttle cable. I don't have to worry about plastic breaking anymore, and it looks way better.

EDIT: Apparently my files didn't attach. Fixed.


----------



## RockeyDA

xxpenguinxx said:


> I'd straiten those rims out if you can. Wouldn't want a leak when driving down the back roads.
> 
> Here's a not so ghetto fix for my mower. The original cable was held in place with a plastic insert and kept breaking. The wire ended up rubbing and slowly cut itself apart. I replaced it with a generic go-kart throttle cable. I don't have to worry about plastic breaking anymore, and it looks way better.
> 
> EDIT: Apparently my files didn't attach. Fixed.


siince this post i had a blow out on the really messed up rim, bought another rim, put the innertube and stock tire on the beat up rim, and i got good enough at this the third time arround that things almost worked out, but the new rim did not have the 2 halved sealed together and i had alot of JB weld and problems and more JB weld and tire slime... it worked out in the end and my wheels have been holding air for weeks now.












now i have to deal with sheard keystock in the rear end and alot of other problems.


----------



## Pawelr98

A circuit which turns oscilloscope into a monochrome TV.


















Vertical deflection had to be inverted (had a 74LS00 NAND which I desoldered from a broken 386 PC).
Use of 74LS00 killed the ramp linearlity so I had to add a current mirror which sinks current.
This way I have a perfect linear ramp.

Horizontal deflection is good enough with the RC circuit.
I may add another current sink later when I make a new PCB.

Now I just need to invert and amplify the Z modulation signal.

In a normal TV
High voltage=Beam on
Low voltage=Beam off
In oscilloscope
High voltage=Beam off
Low Voltage=Beam on

For now the image is negative and the beam is not turning off completely.
Oscilloscope requires 5V while the composite signal gives around 2.5V maximum.


----------



## RockeyDA

Pawelr98 said:


> A circuit which turns oscilloscope into a monochrome TV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vertical deflection had to be inverted (had a 74LS00 NAND which I desoldered from a broken 386 PC).
> Use of 74LS00 killed the ramp linearlity so I had to add a current mirror which sinks current.
> This way I have a perfect linear ramp.
> 
> Horizontal deflection is good enough with the RC circuit.
> I may add another current sink later when I make a new PCB.
> 
> Now I just need to invert and amplify the Z modulation signal.
> 
> In a normal TV
> High voltage=Beam on
> Low voltage=Beam off
> In oscilloscope
> High voltage=Beam off
> Low Voltage=Beam on
> 
> For now the image is negative and the beam is not turning off completely.
> Oscilloscope requires 5V while the composite signal gives around 2.5V maximum.


i have wanted to do somthing like that but did not think it wold be woth the effort, so i tryied somthing simpler, but cold not get the right horizontal sweep freq off my function generator.


----------



## RockeyDA

also i got a new toy im precticly jellous over my self for, got it deliverd for trading my rally they runs for this. this runs now but needs a carb overhall and some body work. and BIG VTREADS ALL ARROUND WITH A 1:1 PULLY RATIO A LOCKED REAR END ALL THE STEERING PLAY REMOVED BEFORE IT GETS IS CAMO PAINT. but thats mostly next summers project. 2018 is dinky's year.

witch BTW dinky's electrical is not ghetto, its absurdly overkill and im really proud of it. its kinda a shame i did all that but dont have a working starter to use it with. its got 0 gage wire and a relay for a V8 truck. minimal current loss! i also did a fialy good job making my cables considing i was crimping the ends with fice grips and cutting them with a pocket knife.


----------



## RockeyDA

did my tractor post not show? it better be behind this message, i typed to much for it to have deleted it self when i clicked post.


----------



## Pawelr98

RockeyDA said:


> i have wanted to do somthing like that but did not think it wold be woth the effort, so i tryied somthing simpler, but cold not get the right horizontal sweep freq off my function generator.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAEODpJxUYY


What you need to do is making them synchronised together.
They cannot differ in phase.

In my case:
Vertical Deflection








Horizontal Deflection









Together with Z modulation applied









VGA already has separate sync sygnals.

You only need to create proper ramps from those signals.
Most basic would be RC + diode (horizontal in my case)but it's harder to make it linear enough.

Better is Current source/sink + diode as it achieves good linearity with little effort.
In my case it's vertical deflection.
I used a current mirror to sink current from the capacitor.
A short negative pulse (ramp reset) gets inverted and recharges the capacitor through the diode.

http://www.electronixandmore.com/projects/vgatoscope/index.html
Over here you can see how to merge all the colors together.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I wanted to keep the wind deflector, but I also needed padding on the roof rack. They're 1" bars, so I cut up some 1" pipe insulation. Hopefully it holds up over the summer.


----------



## RockeyDA

Pawelr98 said:


> What you need to do is making them synchronised together.
> They cannot differ in phase.
> 
> In my case:
> Vertical Deflection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Horizontal Deflection
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Together with Z modulation applied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VGA already has separate sync sygnals.
> 
> You only need to create proper ramps from those signals.
> Most basic would be RC + diode (horizontal in my case)but it's harder to make it linear enough.
> 
> Better is Current source/sink + diode as it achieves good linearity with little effort.
> In my case it's vertical deflection.
> I used a current mirror to sink current from the capacitor.
> A short negative pulse (ramp reset) gets inverted and recharges the capacitor through the diode.
> 
> http://www.electronixandmore.com/projects/vgatoscope/index.html
> Over here you can see how to merge all the colors together.


my issue was the horizontal freq was far to high, above my sound card output, and in a range were a tap on my function generators knob will send it a few hundred hurts.


----------



## Pawelr98

RockeyDA said:


> my issue was the horizontal freq was far to high, above my sound card output, and in a range were a tap on my function generators knob will send it a few hundred hurts.


You don't use a soundcard or a generator for this.

VGA connector already has all the needed signals.
Pin13 contains Horizontal sync
Pin14 contains Vertical sync

You only need to create deflection signals from them.

In my circuit the LM1881 extracts the Hsync and Vsync from the composite signal.
VGA has no need for this chip.
What needs to be adjusted is capacitor values and charge/discharge rates.
Oscilloscope can adjust Vertical/Horizontal gain so the ramp amplitude is not very important.
As long as you don't hit Vcc or GND it's all fine.
With simple RC + diode it's better to decrease ramp amplitude as it makes it bit more linear.

The problem with VGA is that Green,Red and Blue are separate signals.
These need to become mixed in order to get a monochromatic beam modulation.
Pin 1-Red video
Pin 2-Green video
Pin 3-Blue video
The ciruit from the link provides a simple opamp based adder which will mix all these signals together and create a single beam modulation signal.


----------



## RockeyDA

Pawelr98 said:


> You don't use a soundcard or a generator for this.
> 
> VGA connector already has all the needed signals.
> Pin13 contains Horizontal sync
> Pin14 contains Vertical sync
> 
> You only need to create deflection signals from them.
> 
> In my circuit the LM1881 extracts the Hsync and Vsync from the composite signal.
> VGA has no need for this chip.
> What needs to be adjusted is capacitor values and charge/discharge rates.
> Oscilloscope can adjust Vertical/Horizontal gain so the ramp amplitude is not very important.
> As long as you don't hit Vcc or GND it's all fine.
> With simple RC + diode it's better to decrease ramp amplitude as it makes it bit more linear.
> 
> The problem with VGA is that Green,Red and Blue are separate signals.
> These need to become mixed in order to get a monochromatic beam modulation.
> Pin 1-Red video
> Pin 2-Green video
> Pin 3-Blue video
> The ciruit from the link provides a simple opamp based adder which will mix all these signals together and create a single beam modulation signal.


i will probably never do this unless you can tell me something common to find the chips on (i wont buy parts for repair or build projects so if i fail i only lost time) and as for the color thing, just go to nvidia control pannel and set the saturation to 0, BAM black and white image ready to go.


----------



## RockeyDA

i thoght you guys might enjoy this, i took a 486 that had an 8 bit ISA slot and put a huculies clone card in it, than ran that to a IBM 5151 aka the monitor to the original PC









i was trying to install win 3.11 on this pc but at one point it crashed (i had been up for 20hr and i think i put a setup disk in when it asked for the display driver disk the second time) and since the crash once the botom row of text gets used the whole display goes crazy and un useable. i got to the UI part of the windows setup on a lator attempt of installing but that was messed up to and the setup failed to complete... or alteast did not give me win.com and i cold not use DIR command becase it wold fill the screen with text resulting in a scrambled pciture. 








its devently the card becase i tried this in my spare 5155 motherbord and had the same isses in basic. i tried swapping the 2 chips on the card that looked like ram chips and were the same chip, no change in problem. i think im going to need another card at this point as i dont know what to do, also checked for any shorted tantalum caps, all clear. i guess i cold google all the IC's on the card and see if replacements are available and cheep. but i got the whole card for 15$


----------



## Blze001

Shame I don't still have the Bronco I had in college. You wanna see some grade-A ghetto rigging, look at the car of a college student who is broke but still feels the need to fix things.

What I can remember off the top of my head:

Rear window shattered, so I made a 2x4 and plexiglass rear window insert, using screw plates to hold it into the rear window guides and a gate latch to lock it.
Steering column ignition broke and new columns were expensive. So I wired a bypass using two toggle switches and a push-button to start.
Wired the radio to it's own toggle switch because I forgot to wire it with the accessory switch when I did the ignition, and all of the wires were the same color so I didn't know which one to use.
Hole in muffler repaired with a flattened out coffee can.
Hose between airbox and throttle body patched with two beer cans and ducttape.
Rear lights stopped working, fixed by cutting off the power cord of a broken desk lamp and using that to bypass the bad wiring.

Plus a few other small things I'm probably forgetting. Loved that truck. I would still have it, but the aforementioned ignition reworking kinda did this 5 years later and I took it as a sign that it was time to move on. https://i.imgur.com/svUikFh.jpg


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Pawelr98 said:


> 6C19Π (6S19P) triode as output tube, EABC80 ("Tube IC" as it has three diodes and single triode inside) as preamp.
> 
> Seems to work OK but I haven't tested it on big speakers.



Nice Work : ) , What kind of output power are you getting ? 


I did something a long time back with a dual triode as the preamp stage and a pentode as the output , though i can not remeber if i ran it as a triode - output was around 1W per channel . Other tube was a magic eye tube just for the fun of it . considering the mess it sounded not to bad .

SAM_0962 by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr


----------



## Sgsi5512

Needed some more fans, so I grabbed the mechanics wire.


----------



## Pawelr98

TwirlyWhirly555 said:


> Nice Work : ) , What kind of output power are you getting ?


Haven't measured it.

I plan to go stereo with this amp.
2x6S19P as output tubes and single JJ ECC803S as preamp.

The main problem is output transformers.
I could go with the cheap vintage TV audio transformers but they offer inferior bandwidth.
Indel TGL5-001 would work much better as it has 40Hz-20kHz bandwidth.
They are meant for EL84 SE so standard 5K/8R 5W.
However they cost a bit compared to normal "junk".112PLN each (3.65PLN/USD so around 30.5USD).

I also need a new smaller power transformer.
Current one has 2x300V winding.
6S19P runs better at lower plate voltages so I have to drop quite a lot of voltage.
560R resistor in series (at centre tap) as well as voltage regulator (+185V plate from ~360V).

My plan is to purchase two used transformers and connect them together.
Much cheaper than buying an overpriced transformer with proper secondary.

Been tube hunting recently and got some extra tubes to work with.
ECC82 and ECC81 made by RFT (Eastern Germany).
Will have to measure them.


----------



## Unknownm

rest in Peace. i knew this model of seagate was crap after reading a review year later. I bought two of these in 2014 and both been runing RAID0 since. Today one of them died on me, giving a wall of red errors for smart data.

Other drive is fine though









Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Oh yeah. I've had a few of those. They die a lot.


----------



## anywhere

Ohhh, who's the avatar?


nvidiaftw12 said:


> Oh yeah. I've had a few of those. They die a lot.


Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


----------



## nvidiaftw12

My brother. Every good internet enthusiast should be well familiar with the classic reverse image search.  Try it on google, just drag and drop an image or paste the link.


That's Sidney Sierota of the band Echosmith.


----------



## anywhere

Damn. Forgot about that drag and drop. Need to get on a computer with a gui more often...

It's phone or a keyboard and terminal when on a pc.... 

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


----------



## Pawelr98

Experimenting with a DIY VU meter.

Generally it works pretty good.
The needle is not moving as fast (does more averaging).
Could be because of it beeing military made (perhaps better resistance to vibrations which makes the dampener stronger).

However the average is quite close to software VU meter.

The meter itself is 50µA meter made in USSR.
These cost around 5PLN (or 1.35USD with current 3.7PLN/USD).

Cheap to purchase. Class 1.5 so it's also decent for other DIY meters(voltmeters, ammeters etc.).


----------



## cdoublejj

Well that's interesting


----------



## zeroibis

cdoublejj said:


> Well that's interesting


Why x16 when you can x1!


----------



## cdoublejj

zeroibis said:


> Why x16 when you can x1!


I thought it was an interesting name, being the king of rigging and all. the 1xs are for power for powered USB cards for bar code scanners and receipt printers etc etc.


----------



## Nukemaster

I thought because it was Macgyver  EDIT. ohh already posted.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I'm attempting a DIY EDM/UKDM style adjustable headlights, plus an HID retrofit. I want to keep it close to OEM, so I got a bunch of connectors and relays from the local u-pull it from a similar car. $8 for all the wiring. Height switch and motors were from overseas. The switch itself was like $20 including the shipping. I had to get the switch sent from the UK since it wasn't an option in the US. Still undecided on which HID projectors to use. Any recommendations are welcomed.

Attached is all the wiring. Also, this is why I want to go with OEM relays. I've had the aftermarket ones heat up and melt under low load.


----------



## RockeyDA

you ghetto lovers might apariate my desk/computer setup
some people call it trashy and messy and outdated, some people claim im living out there dream.
































i hope some one apritates this, or something in it.


----------



## TheBadBull

Well that sure is something..

you have quite a few projects going on there, is there anything you're working on right now in particular?


----------



## andrews2547

TheBadBull said:


> Well that sure is something..
> 
> you have quite a few projects going on there, is there anything you're working on right now in particular?



I hope it's the Fallout computer. That looks fun.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

TheBadBull said:


> Well that sure is something..


LOL. Yeah. It's something alright. Not sure what, exactly, but something.

Can't say I've met too many people who would call that living out "their dream" but different strokes I guess.

Why are there so many old TVs? And what's the electricity bill on that bad boy? Good grief.


----------



## RockeyDA

my current project is getting the trs-80's tape drive to work, and maby setting up a low power VHF brodcast so i can steam from a PC to a tv out in the back yard. and what do you mean by fall out computer? are you calling one of my pc's radioactive?


----------



## andrews2547

RockeyDA said:


> my current project is getting the trs-80's tape drive to work, and maby setting up a low power VHF brodcast so i can steam from a PC to a tv out in the back yard. and what do you mean by fall out computer? are you calling one of my pc's radioactive?





















It looks very similar to the computers in the Fallout series :upsidedwn


----------



## RockeyDA

im not familiar with that game, but what im doing here, i got a 486 with a huculies clone card attached and im stinalling win 3.11 so i can install windows 95 on a monicrome gpu. i had a problem with the driver instalation and it actually destryed the card. it oputputs a jumbled mess once information gets to the bottom of the display.


----------



## 8051

I haven't seen such a collection of CRT's since the 1990's. The CGA monochrome display is something for a museum.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I thought the motors in the last pic were bad. I checked the pcb and other components and it all looked fine. Looking at my switch, I don't think it's compatible with the motors. It appears to send a digital signal. These motors just compare voltage coming from 1k potentiometer, so they don't do anything when connected.

I didn't have a 1k pot, so I ghetto rigged this together with a few 1k resistors. You can also see my ghetto 12V power supply in action.


----------



## Pawelr98

1R resistor in series to limit inrush current of angle grinder(I didn't know what kind of fuse was on the line).

I needed to cut a padlock( a person renting the flat lost the key).
No outlets in the common basement so I had to improvise.
DIY light bulb-> outlet adapter

10 seconds and the padlock was gone.

At first I had to break into the basement box.
That required around 30minutes as I only had screwdrivers.


----------



## RockeyDA

for fun im going to count all the crt's i own, including spare tubes i have laying around for a later date. i counted 53 CRT's and i did not include anything rear projection. i wish i cold say next i am adding a Panasonic CT-101 to the collection but i dont think im ever finding one of those. most recent CRT pick up was a watchman for 9$. because i got that i set up some low power brodcast equipment in my basement and now i can stream what ever i want around the house and a little of the yard. gotta keep my gain low, it being eligal and all.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Slapped the engine bay wiring harness together for my headlight leveling circuit. Now to do the interior.


----------



## RockeyDA

ok, so i got a ASUS gaming Nfoce motherbord for under 30$ and i might be building my first non xeon system than can overclock, and the cpu i have to use is a 3.73ghz pentium D Extreme and a big zalmin cooler. this will be a fun build. going to try and keep ghetto out of this for once.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Installed the HIDs and level adjust on one light. Beam is even, onto the next. Cleaned up the engine bay wiring hardness too. Extra disconnects and extension for easy install / removal.

Top is HID, bottom is OEM-ish. I think I done goofed. This does not look ghetto at all...


----------



## taowulf

xxpenguinxx said:


> Installed the HIDs and level adjust on one light. Beam is even, onto the next. Cleaned up the engine bay wiring hardness too. Extra disconnects and extension for easy install / removal.
> 
> Top is HID, bottom is OEM-ish. I think I done goofed. This does not look ghetto at all...


Slap some duct tape on it


----------



## offroadz

Hi guys, been out of the loop for a while after having my first child that was born with special needs. Well things have calmed down in our lives now, so I've had some time to get back into my love for all things computer related. Well this little "build" I have thrown together seems to fit this thread very well. CPU/Motherboard/RAM were all pulled out of a busted dell inspirion. Its and i7 5500u with 8GB of ram, I added in a 250GB Samsung 850 Evo. It has an onboard 840M, which I have actually been using quite heavily since it was my only computer for some time. Its now using a GTX 760 via a gdc exp beast 8.5 external gpu dock connected to the mini pcie slot on the motherboard. While this is bottle neck due to the 1x slot, its still a massive upgrade over the 840m. The shoe box is my favorite part of the "build" lol, hope you guys enjoy!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Broke a tab on the second headlight. Fixed it with some scrap metal. Also here's some shots of the completed bracket.


----------



## Sgsi5512

*Ghetto RGB*

Merry Christmas! I wanted RGB, so I bought some lights at the nearest dollar store and grabbed a roll of duct tape.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Years ago I had a WRT54G that locked up after updating the firmware. I needed the internet up and running so I slapped together a quick jtag cable to redo the flash. I found that cable.

Figured you would enjoy it before I take it apart to make a more professional looking cable.


----------



## bmgjet

Window mounted radiator for some better cooling.


----------



## ThrashZone

Hi,
I knew you were nature cooled :thumb:


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Got a USB Blaster clone. Turns out the 3.3v configuration is done wrong. It only output 2.5v so the connected CPLD wouldn't communicate. 

I found a fix on a random site and redid the power on the board. I needed to remove the 4 200ohm resistors, and insert a 3.3v voltage regulator.

I didn't have exact value resistors, so I made due with wiring a bunch in series to get the right values.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Pi zero was running abit warm so …. : P

P1010707 by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr


----------



## Unknownm

Removed plastic cover of my hybird 980ti.

Since the AIO cannot be replaced with new liquid I just saved myself lots of steps. When it hits the dust it will be easy to replace









Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk


----------



## vicyo

My sister started to grow cactuses as a hobby and needed some strong lighting to keep them alive indoors. Boy how botanic specialist stores mark up the price of Led reflectors, I took some of them apart and most of them are just cheap generic chines cob led.
So what to do? Buy a cheap microphone boom arm, a similarly cheap timer and a decent led reflector (30W Philips 5700K) and voila! I got her a growth light for a fraction of the cost and did not even need to buy a single extra bolt or washer Lol

yes it IS working, been about 2 months since I built it and the cactuses are growing nicely 


It is also very practical, from time to time I borrow it to use when detailing my car's interior or doing maintenance on my pc.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Added voltage regulator for RC transmitter. All my old NiMh 9.6V batteries are dead, and I rather use lipos.


----------



## 1096bimu

After looking around the house for a few minutes, I found the perfect GPU anti-sag bracket.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

1096bimu said:


> After looking around the house for a few minutes, I found the perfect GPU anti-sag bracket.


Where is it? I can't see it in that tiny, blurry photo.


----------



## Bartholdi

*Moar coooling*

is 5 sp fans blowing at the GPU and two 140mm on the kraken x62.
Drilled a hole in the chassi to make room for the 280mms.


----------



## 1096bimu

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Where is it? I can't see it in that tiny, blurry photo.


It's 1721x2809 how is that tiny and blurry?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

1096bimu said:


> It's 1721x2809 how is that tiny and blurry?


I don't care what the resolution is, on screen, what's behind the window is blurry and too small to see. All that blue light washing everything out isn't helping, either.


----------



## Cysquatch

1096bimu said:


> After looking around the house for a few minutes, I found the perfect GPU anti-sag bracket.


please tell me this is a temporary thing, your pc looks so great otherwise!


----------



## Fluxmaven

1096bimu said:


> After looking around the house for a few minutes, I found the perfect GPU anti-sag bracket.


Yea Aquafina is extra ghetto... Gotta get a Fiji in there


----------



## JackCY

Lady Fitzgerald said:


> Where is it? I can't see it in that tiny, blurry photo.


He put a transparent PET bottle in there that's half hidden in the case as well, so you think it's a reflection etc. blur until you spot the label on it.


----------



## Pawelr98

A simple wooden table made from scrap.

This way the NAS in the basement won't take much space and will be safe from any water that may appear on the floor.


----------



## Nukemaster

It has been a since this thread had a post.

I see a Freezer 7 from Arctic. I have one of those with my spare parts 

Is that a UPS on the ground? I would put that on the table too.


----------



## Pawelr98

Yeah, an UPS.

I will move it too.
However the car battery is quite heavy and this table is not exactly very stiff.
The frame is (solid wood) but the main surface was made with leftover wooden floor panels.
They do bend under load.

I made quite an effort to move this thing into the basement.

I had to pull CAT6 SFTP cable through two levels.
Drilling through metal door frame and attaching the cable to the walls.

I decided to futureproof my setup. For the time beeing I just use 1Gbit/s LAN network.
Maybe if 10Gbit/s cards get cheaper in the future.
But I think it's not likely.

Freezer 7 on Athlon II X2 250. It's low power because it runs on single core at 1.5GHz and undervolted.
Pulls ~100W from the wall.

I couldn't make the SAS HP P400 boot on i3 550 setup.
It was entering a loop while checking for RAID arrays.


----------



## Lumpy20

Hi Brodieboy
I have had a a similar experience with a Jaycar UPS, MP5027, very similar PCB to the one in your picture. The unit went dead after lightning storm and I disconnected the batteries and found that one was dead. Unfortunately i turned it on without the batteries connected. Yes, I realize a dumb thing to do but ask if after replacing the transistors on your PCB did the batteries arc when re-connected? Mine did so that is why i turned on the UPS without the batteries. I will get a new set of transistors and replace them, mine seem to be FP50N06 types and a LM317? Thanks for your advice. Regards, KH


----------



## ObiWanShinob1

Got a couple good ones for yawl from the past when I actually had tools lol, will find more later 










I call that one frankenlighter, made it out of boredom lol had a broken tank and I fixed it with some good ol backyard engineering lol










So I had a concept idea of a venturi intake and wanted to see if it would work a while back on my old car










So I made a prototype out of some broken sink parts, a broken telescope, a porthole from a broken subwoofer and some other parts lying around lol










then proceeded to slap the finished prototype on my car intake lol. never dyno'd it but I feel like it might have done something better or worse


----------



## Volvo

I was in a huge rush to set up a hard drive cloning system, when I realised that the only cooler I had lying around had no fan on it.

It required a 120mm fan and I was all out of 120mm fans.
An adapter for a blower was then fabricated out of corrugated plastic from a recycled kids' art thing.

I live and die by my jank.

Adapt, improvise, overcome.


----------



## Simmons572

Living that apartment life, so taking your hot server and folding rigs...










--

And building an isolated exhaust chamber out of wood and foam particle board.

--


----------



## sultanofswing

Not my best, also not my worst.


----------



## Schmuckley

sultanofswing said:


> Not my best, also not my worst.


What is in that liquid? I'm guessing not a silicon pork tenderloin.

A radiator..hmm..Idk?

Dude, bong cooler. PM me for info.

Could have an uptake (and falldown) on that res and be getting sub-ambient water temps.


----------



## skupples

looks like ice water.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

skupples said:


> looks like ice water.


Ditto.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Due to the pandemic we are currently in I probably won't be finishing an ITX build I was starting. Mobo showed up so I wanted to test before setting it aside. I could have just bench tested it on the cardboard box hooked up with a spare PSU, but I happened to find this slim tower Lenovo that actually had a normal 24 pin PSU and was a standard Micro ATX layout in my recycle pile at work. Turns out the one non-standard thing was the CPU cooler. So Mugen 3 to the rescue.


----------



## Nukemaster

It fits right in.


----------



## ozlay

Pico psu in mATX case.


----------



## Nukemaster

Specs of that system?


----------



## ozlay

Nukemaster said:


> Specs of that system?


E3-1230v2 @ 3.7ghz all core. 
4gigs 1600 cas7. 
GT1030 gddr5
256gb 950 pro.
160w psu.


----------



## TwilightRavens

The fans on the top, top left to be exact is held up by 2 zip ties because my X570 Taichi's VRM prevents me from correctly screwing in that fan to my 240mm rad because of the way it protrudes in my Phanteks Enthoo Pro case, not all THAT noticeable if you aren't looking for it but hey its worked for about 3 months now.


----------



## Teknoman013

heres mine


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Tube amps hums below 115V. Gutted an old power supply and stuck a 115V to 120V transformer on the line filter. Bumps voltage up to about 125V. No more hum. Now to make it less ghetto looking.


----------



## Pawelr98

Transformer primary to mains, secondary in series with mains.
This can either add or substract the voltage.
Fairly simple but many don't know about it.

I happen to know a bit about tube equipment, I could find a proper solution to the hum problem.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Pawelr98 said:


> Transformer primary to mains, secondary in series with mains.
> This can either add or substract the voltage.
> Fairly simple but many don't know about it.
> 
> I happen to know a bit about tube equipment, I could find a proper solution to the hum problem.


It's a Schiit Vali. The wall wart outputs 24VAC and 6VAC. 6V is for the heater.

It hums when the voltage drops below 115 and my A/C or fridge compressor is running. They are on separate circuits and I have tried different wall outlets.


----------



## Pawelr98

Most of these low voltage tube designs are turds.

I heard this uses a voltage doubler to produce 60V DC or so.
For a standard tube this would be bare minimum.
I would expect 100+V for operation at full potential.

6BZ7 is VHF tube meant to operation in TV receivers.
Pretty much an 1USD junk tube no really wants that's plentiful to purchase in bulk.

The hum would indicate a design flaw.
Which can be solved easily with slightly more care given to the design.
There's LM317 on the board which means the voltage should be regulated to be very clean and ripple free.

I would guess that at low mains voltages the LM317 regulator basically drops out.
The input-output voltage is too low to maintain regulation and the ripple is appearing on the output of the regulator.
Which is what you hear as hum.

Slightly bigger input capacitors or reducing the output voltage by 500-1000mV (I doubt the output amp would notice much) would most likely solve the problem for good.
Reducing the voltage would require changing one resistor.

At least in Europe mains voltage changes of +-10% are expected and should be taken into account when designing.

The tube is not at fault. 317 is regulating the voltage for the discrete amp that follows the tube.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Putting a potentiometer in parallel with the resistor worked. I lowed it about 1v and the hum doesn't start till AC voltage drops below 110v. Also the hum isn't as loud when the AC kicks on.

If I can't find larger caps that fit than it will be more content for this thread.


----------



## Pawelr98

Dropout voltage was the case then.
It was running very close to the limit.

It could be fixed with an LDO with a lower dropout voltage, but don't know any models, I rarely use those.

I also wonder what kind of diodes they used.
If standard then replacing them with schottky diodes may just help to get over the dropout voltage.
But with voltage doubler in place it would require diodes that can withstand at least 80V or so.
And these usually have a 0.7-0.8V drop (two schottky in series basically) which is no good.
But diodes with lower drops also exist. Eg. BAT49

317 can handle 40V differential so with 30-something on the output it can handle quite the input voltage.
If I were Schiit designer I would just order a transformer wound for 25-26V instead of 24V.
Then a small zener across the 317 to protect against transient overvoltages and voila, a properly working design.
Tube would have a few extra volts too.


----------



## XGS-Duplicity

A video of my ambient jerryrig cooling. Inspiration from Jayz2Cents


----------



## Pawelr98

A softstart circuit for a 1350W PSU from my brother's PC.

22 ohm 5W went open, couldn't handle the surge.
The new one is 5.4k ohm 10W which limits the surge current to 60mA maximum (325V sine wave peak through 5400 ohms).
The delay is 2 seconds.

The breaker was tripping because of this PSU.
Now it doesn't trip anymore.

However I would say that lower resistance in the 500-1000ohm range would be better in this case as the capacitors would charge slightly faster, reducing relay contact wear.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I don't think capacitance is the issue. Still hums at 110v with this big thing. I'm thinking it's picking up line noise through the heater. I probably need to change it to DC power.


----------



## Pawelr98

An usb charger can be easily modified to output 6V DC.
Locate the 431 chip. There should be two resistors forming a voltage divider.
At the common point there is 2.5V, which is what the 431 chip uses a feedback.
Change either of those resistors and the voltage will change.
Increase the upper resistor or decrease the lower one.

Bigger capacitor may not always solve the issue.
Higher pulse current causes voltage drops in transformer winding resistance as well as diode drop.

If anything connect the capacitor to regulator output.
It will be nasty for the regulator but otherwise should test if the regulator dropout is the culprit.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

It's connected to the LM371M's 60V output. It's 200V or 400V 220uf capacitor. I didn't have a smaller one with a higher enough voltage rating.


----------



## TwilightRavens

Dunno if this counts as "ghetto rigging" but i decided to pretty up this Arctic Accelero III cooler that's on my 290X using some of my double sided thermal adhesive to attach a Radeon R9 290X badge to the side and colored the outside fans with a red sharpie, not ideal but I like how it turned out.


----------



## Nukemaster

haha sharpie. Nice.

I quite like Arctic VGA coolers.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I was going to build a RAM SPD reader, but then I found this thing on Aliexpress. Kinda ghetto with the cut in half DDR slots. Software is buggy but I got it working in a VM.


----------



## 2600ryzen

Pieced together from a mining rig frame and lots of zipties.


----------



## Avacado

2600ryzen said:


> Pieced together from a mining rig frame and lots of zipties.


The 4 zip tie segment holding up your GPU is my favorite part!


----------



## 2600ryzen

Avacado said:


> The 4 zip tie segment holding up your GPU is my favorite part!



Structural integrity was paramount during the build process.


----------



## Avacado

It's like we're related somehow.


----------



## TwilightRavens

2600ryzen said:


> Pieced together from a mining rig frame and lots of zipties.



Oddly enough, I actually like the look of that setup, zip ties and all.


----------



## 2600ryzen

TwilightRavens said:


> Oddly enough, I actually like the look of that setup, zip ties and all.



Yes it has potential to look decent, but I like the ghetto but functional look.


----------



## J7SC

Finished this little retro-build last month. Short version is that the TV in our master bedroom is 'driven' by a 4.8 GHz 6700K 'ES' in a Gigabyte Z170 SOC Force, 16GB of DDR4 4000 and 780 Ti Classifieds in SLI. It ''had'' a TT 240 mm AIO which ran continuously for almost eight years in this and other systems (3770K) w/o problems. But then I started moving things around for better cable management, and afterwards, that little AIO had temps 40 C higher (internal deposits came loose and plugged things up). I rebuild, modded and then refilled the AIO (works great) and then decided to mod parts of an older test-bench, along with going for a black / grey / white theme (before RGBs on the back of the mobo kicks in) because the Z170 SOC Force is a great mobo, but very orangy. The outcome is below


----------



## Avacado

The permanent marker marks in picture number 2 makes me happy.


----------



## J7SC

Avacado said:


> The permanent marker marks in picture number 2 makes me happy.


 
...yeah, that screw looked too screwy 'au naturel', so a black sharpie to the rescue...I might clean that off and give it a dab of white paint, or just leave it as a beauty mark :thinking:


----------



## Minotaurtoo

so this is the result of re-using the same case for over 10 years... started out as a Phenom rig... was mistakenly made into an ...coughs and mutters under breath... FX rig... then into 1st gen Ryzen... Ryzen 2000 and now a Ryzen 9 3900x.... same water cooling setup for the entire time with only minor repair/replace type work done on it other than fluid changes.... originally the idea was based on a "borg minotaur" style look... but lost it's way over the years... at one time the gpu was water cooled as well... but with the 5700XT I just didn't see the need like I did with earlier gpu's I had... in fact... I think I may have shared an earlier iteration of this before.... 

Also included a pic of my old phenom rig remade into a wall PC sans discrete gpu (used to have a radeon 6850)...

Not sure which one is more ghetto at the moment... but both work perfectly lol... oddly I put more time into cable management on the wall pc... as in... I actually bothered... over the years I just gave up on the other one.


----------



## J7SC

Minotaurtoo said:


> so this is the result of re-using the same case for over 10 years... started out as a Phenom rig... was mistakenly made into an ...coughs and mutters under breath... FX rig... then into 1st gen Ryzen... Ryzen 2000 and now a Ryzen 9 3900x.... same water cooling setup for the entire time with only minor repair/replace type work done on it other than fluid changes.... originally the idea was based on a "borg minotaur" style look... but lost it's way over the years... at one time the gpu was water cooled as well... but with the 5700XT I just didn't see the need like I did with earlier gpu's I had... in fact... I think I may have shared an earlier iteration of this before....
> 
> Also included a pic of my old phenom rig remade into a wall PC sans discrete gpu (used to have a radeon 6850)...
> 
> Not sure which one is more ghetto at the moment... but both work perfectly lol... oddly I put more time into cable management on the wall pc... as in... I actually bothered... over the years I just gave up on the other one.


 
Nice ! I used to have several open systems directly flat on my desk and really like them, but I kept on spilling Starbucks on them...

Another retro-ghetto build I finished last month; 5960X in an Antec 302 with a big square hole cut into the side panel for VRM, DRAM and GPU 'breathing' - A Dremel a day keeps the modding in play


----------



## lexer

I fixed my NVME throttling by using the side panel as heatsink and the chunck of alumium acts as "thermal mass" so even when i'm writting a lot of data takes a couple of minutes to reach the nominal temperature


----------



## 2600ryzen

lexer said:


> I fixed my NVME throttling by using the side panel as heatsink and the chunck of alumium acts as "thermal mass" so even when i'm writting a lot of data takes a couple of minutes to reach the nominal temperature
> 
> View attachment 2458581


How much longer does it take for your ssd to reach max temp? Is the max temp now lower?


----------



## davcc22

did my first watercooling loop!! somehow losy my optical drive bay so i had to get "creative"! one benifit of having about 1l of coolent is it takes AGES AND AGES to fully heatsoak the loop


----------



## Boinz

davcc22 said:


> View attachment 2465172
> did my first watercooling loop!! somehow losy my optical drive bay so i had to get "creative"! one benifit of having about 1l of coolent is it takes AGES AND AGES to fully heatsoak the loop


You know you don't HAVE to use all the loop hose right?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Boinz said:


> You know you don't HAVE to use all the loop hose right?


that's a hydrogen hydroxide dispersion loop... it reduces quantum tunneling effects so water stays wetter 😁


----------



## warpuck

Looks fine 2 Me. All It needs is a tee and a drain valve down by the power supply. Every six months or so drain it and flush it. If you can get to the fill cap without taking any hoses loose. That way you can get any stray wild dihydrogen oxide molecules out that managed infiltration.

Having done it a few times removing and reusing the hoses is not a good practice. Unless you want to conformal coat all the circuit boards and run the system with mother board back plane as the highest point.

Also nothing works better than plain distilled water.

I was going to do it with copper tube but could not find fittings to match up. So I could double flare them. The other choice was to take CPU and GPU heat sinks and reservoir to a machine shop and have have them threaded to SAE standards.Yes I know good enough for 1000 psi is over kill.

BUT I was folding 24/7 and pumps do fail.

Or I could do the military cooling system with chilled water, a dryer and duct work. Maybe I could make it fit inside a old refrigerator.

Then you would not need water inside the CPU box. I guess 5 C ambient would work for a bit of OC.

Or just move to Yellow Knife by the Great Slave Lake.
With global warming it might just be the year round place to be anyway.

Boy howdy them old data systems spaces were cold when it was 40 C outside.

Now I just air it out with lots of fans.

Actually cheaper than replacing 2 dead GPUs, dead CPU & mother board that got wet. At least the power supply and case still works.


----------



## Avacado

warpuck said:


> Looks fine 2 Me. All It needs is a tee and a drain valve down by the power supply. Every six months or so drain it and flush it. If you can get to the fill cap without taking any hoses loose. That way you can get any stray wild dihydrogen oxide molecules out that managed infiltration.
> 
> Having done it a few times removing and reusing the hoses is not a good practice. Unless you want to conformal coat all the circuit boards and run the system with mother board back plane as the highest point.
> 
> Also nothing works better than plain distilled water.
> 
> I was going to do it with copper tube but could not find fittings to match up. So I could double flare them. The other choice was to take CPU and GPU heat sinks and reservoir to a machine shop and have have them threaded to SAE standards.Yes I know good enough for 1000 psi is over kill.
> 
> BUT I was folding 24/7 and pumps do fail.
> 
> Or I could do the military cooling system with chilled water, a dryer and duct work. Maybe I could make it fit inside a old refrigerator.
> 
> Then you would not need water inside the CPU box. I guess 5 C ambient would work for a bit of OC.
> 
> Or just move to Yellow Knife by the Great Slave Lake.
> With global warming it might just be the year round place to be anyway.
> 
> Boy howdy them old data systems spaces were cold when it was 40 C outside.
> 
> Now I just air it out with lots of fans.
> 
> Actually cheaper than replacing 2 dead GPUs, dead CPU & mother board that got wet. At least the power supply and case still works.


Wait, tell me more about fitting incompatibility. Just bought a **** ton of 5/8 copper tubing I fully plan on using my existing 16mm fittings for.


----------



## Fluxmaven

Had a spare Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX and bought this corsair cooler thinking I could drop the Noctua right in... She a little too thicc... Ended up using zip ties to attach the fan to the mount, then normal fan screws to hold the trim piece to the fan. Doesn't look too bad when looking at it from the front.


----------



## Xinoxide

I needed to flash my Rog controller to enable the GPU hotwire ports. Haven't yet solved how to get hotwire to work on a card yet. EVC2SX has been good but apparently the hotwire work with other gpu too though.

Used my z490 benching board's psu to power a quick bench part together enough to backwards my EZ-connect from my x570 impact
as the USB half of the oc-panel connector for x99/z170 boards...


----------



## 2600ryzen

ghetto 4 pin pwm 6v low noise adapter, it works fine btw I haven't tested if the pwm signal and tachometer connection works yet but the fans work when I supply power.

o























In this config it gets hot without overheating supplying [email protected] with 24v input voltage meaning it's dissipating 5.76w of heat.


----------



## Nukemaster

Is that a 7806 regulator?

With such a voltage difference, I would recommend a switching regulator(LM2596 are old, but still work well). They are available ready to use and fairly cheep.

I never thought about hot glue on a breadboard. I like it.

I have the opposite. 5 volt usb to test computer fans with 12 volts. The extra input cap is under the board.


Note to self. Too much light.


----------



## 2600ryzen

Nukemaster said:


> Is that a 7806 regulator?
> 
> With such a voltage difference, I would recommend a switching regulator(LM2596 are old, but still work well). They are available ready to use and fairly cheep.
> 
> I never thought about hot glue on a breadboard. I like it.
> 
> I have the opposite. 5 volt usb to test computer fans with 12 volts. The extra input cap is under the board.


I'm still waiting on a usb powered step up converter like the one you've modded, I purchased it for a similar reason to be able to get more than 5v from a usb connection. I think you only need 2 pin fan connectors to test fans the way you are(the 3rd pin is the tachometer) but I guess having a 3pin connector adds strength/rigidity to the connection to the board.
I was going to use the lm2596 for my 6v low noise adapter but was advised by a random forumer that the linear voltage regulator was less likely to cause problems for my psu? The heatsink is overkill for my purpose(my fans max out at 0.24A which is only 1.44w heat in the 7806) I mainly just wanted to see how much power the l7806 is capable of dissipating, I think it really is capable of supplying 1.5A of constant current with the right heatsink. 
The hot glue does a good job I'm just not sure how good it will be in securing external connections like fan headers, I might need a proper solderable pcb for those connections.


----------



## Pawelr98

Well, 7806 is a simple regulator and with 1.44W it shouldn't be a big deal. You may want to include a series resistor to lower the dissapation.
I would however bolt the regulator straight to the case, since it's already at ground potential and is, well, a big chunk of metal that can act as a radiator.
7806 has GND at the metal tab, so no isolation is required, other than maybe for some noise reasons.


----------



## 2600ryzen

Pawelr98 said:


> Well, 7806 is a simple regulator and with 1.44W it shouldn't be a big deal. You may want to include a series resistor to lower the dissapation.
> I would however bolt the regulator straight to the case, since it's already at ground potential and is, well, a big chunk of metal that can act as a radiator.
> 7806 has GND at the metal tab, so no isolation is required, other than maybe for some noise reasons.


Bolting it to my case would be the best heatsink but then the regulator would have to stick out from the breadboard/pcb at a really weird angle or be separated from the breadboard. I'd prefer to have it enclosed in a small box with openings at each ends like a matchbox without the tray.
Max current you would ever pull on 3 fans(doubt you'd connect more than that to one pwm header) is about 0.6A which is only [email protected] or [email protected] like in the one pictured. Even with a smaller heatsink it can still easily dissipate 3.6w of heat without getting too hot to touch, it does get hot though.









Pretty sure I can transfer that design to a 3 x 4 pin solderable pcb board and it would fit inside a matchbox sized enclosure, I would just need some components to share pin holes and fold the regulator to be horizontal with the pcb.


----------



## Pawelr98

Just do it by wires and elements soldered directly across pins.
78xx series are very simple, one or two capacitors across the pins and that's it.
Then put heatshrink over the leads to secure stuff in place and it's done.


----------



## 2600ryzen

Pawelr98 said:


> Just do it by wires and elements soldered directly across pins.
> 78xx series are very simple, one or two capacitors across the pins and that's it.
> Then put heatshrink over the leads to secure stuff in place and it's done.


Done
















And some "heatshrink".


----------



## Nukemaster

Looks good.
I use short cables with computer type 3-pin fan headers and dupont type pins on the other for TO-220 parts on the breadboard. The pins on some of these TO-220 devices are pretty big for the breadboard.

Also. I used the 3 pin headers on the step up because they are fool proof(keyed to only fit the connector the right way). Any one can plug a fan in and it will work.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Dang, run a vacuum.


----------



## 2600ryzen

Sir Beregond said:


> Dang, run a vacuum.


Yeah the dog likes to hang out near my feet, I did actually vacuum a few days before the pic but someone broke a water pipe in the back yard and she brought a lot of mud in.


----------



## warpuck

Yep dogs are like kids. Always something to clean. Always want a treat. Want to go outside. Then want to come inside. Like the food, then don't like the food.
Like to ride in the pickup truck in the back looking over the cab.
But what is real fun is to be in the back of the pick up and watch the women walk almost by.
Then bark real loud. The one that looked like a wolf thought it was funny. I did too.


----------



## J7SC

...laying out a ghetto rig, w/ dual mobos (x99 Rampage V Xtr; Gigabyte Z170 SOC Force), Sammy-B RGB and a Strix 3090...hopefully will look better when finished...


----------



## rluker5

Hi, so I was bored and still wanted to play with pc hardware, which was made worse by not being able to pick up a 3080.
It started with buying a gtx 580 and an hd 6870 just for curiosity on their performance. Then I got this a little under a month ago for a bit less than $18 shipped with tax for convenience in messing with them:








It's barely functional and didn't accept a 4670k, but was ok with a 4130. And has a non overclocking HP oem bios that seems like it has a blacklist for the good 1150 cpus. Probably stripped out of one of those $100 office pcs you can find on ebay.
I ran it with the 4130 and some golden 2GB OCZ ram modules on a shelf for a bit in the garage until a leftover 2' * 4' piece of plywood from my daughter's waterbed caught my eye and this happened with the help of a few more leftover scraps from the garage:








It's just a little smaller than a Fractal Core 500 itx, but has a matx in it.
A couple of days later I wondered what the bargain h81 mobo would do with a rule breaking 4980hq I had in the pc my daughter is doing remote schooling on. She wouldn't notice if I switched that out for a 4670k.
It took it. Mostly unlocked, except for all ram controls and the power limit which is stuck at 47w. A 4980hq can do a lot with 47w and any ram so I put in 16GB of some low profile stuff which the mobo decided to run at 1333 cas 9. Now I was cooking with gas so I plugged in my waterforce 1080ti to see what the limited 4980hq with garbage ram settings could do. I only had one place to stick the aio, in front, so I had to switch the airflow from front to back to back to front so the stock intel cooler could get cool air. Even at 47w it gets to the low 70s if you run it like that continuously.


















Under 50% or less load the 4980hq holds 4ghz and power throttles back to 3.4-3.5ghz at 100% load. With CP2077 it does 60fps most of the time but can drop to low 50s driving quickly through the city in crowded areas with medium crowd density and the best 4k settings my 1080ti can muster. I tested a couple more games and the 4980hq with that bad ram and throttled clocks was about 8% slower than a 4.2ghz 4770k with 50ns latency 2400 ram. Or about 25% slower than my 5775c setup in cpu limited scenarios.
My 1080ti was still the bottleneck for this system at 4k60 by a lot. Did I mention that the psu is a mostly empty shell, $36 piece of trash? Still works though.
I decided to finish playing CP2077 with it since the drop in cpu performance was unnoticeable in the later parts of the game I was in. I also used a creative Play!3 usb headphone dac and some closed headphones.
Now that I'm done with all of the endings, including the secret one, I'm going to put the 1080ti back with the good stuff and pop the 580 in this wood box.
Shame the 1080ti can't keep up with a 2013 HP office mobo and 1333cas9 ram in a plywood box anymore, but that's why I'm in the market for something better.
Maybe bother my daughter to paint it some more. She doesn't want to because she doesn't think it will look convincing enough to fool people.
Here's a mildly entertaining xbox button recorded clip from that system:
Cyberpunk 2077 car troubles - YouTube
Edit: forgot this -pcie runs gen3 on this h81 combo, regardless of the pcie gen2 spec:


----------



## rluker5

But wait... there's more!


----------



## rluker5

Back in the fall of 2019 I started assembling the components for a headphone project but accidentally made an outstanding pair that made my intended project seem unworthy, especially after hearing the speakers for said intended project after they finally came.
It was to be this pair of speakers: 3 inch Protable Subwoofer Speaker 4OHM 30W Desktop Bluetooth Deep Bass Long stroke Foam Neodymium Speaker For GO+PLAY Micro 1pcs|speaker 4ohm|neodymium speakerspeaker for - AliExpress going into this headphone shell:








Well covid has indirectly taken some hobbies and given me a bit more time so my bored self decided to dig the stuff out of the attic and do the project.


----------



## rluker5

It turned out to be a tighter fit than I thought so there was a lot of imitation dremel work. And a lot of hot glue.








Here's with the subpar speakers that came with the thing. I didn't even think the little ones could do anything since there is no real way for the cone paper to move, but I hooked them up to my phone and they put out pure pain. Would make for an irritating dog whistle type device for really high frequencies:








With the speakers hot glued into place:








And I used some garden hose type globe valve washers as spacers under the cover plates to give the drivers a bit more space to travel and then sealed the cover plates with more hot glue. They are as heavy as the headphones that jumped their place in line a little over a year ago:








At first they sounded like real big headphone speakers in cheap plastic cups. Which they are. I drilled in some holes and this helped a bit, but I then tried the brainwavz earpads from the other headphones shown and this took most of that away. The headphones sounded better with my fingers on the holes so I hot glued them shut and here is the final result:








When you eq in bass and reduce the 250-500hz range by about 15dB they sound analogous to a decent pair of speakers with an oversized subwoofer. The bass isn't as clean or deep as Elear or M1060 but is much more copious if you call for it. The bass isn't that bad, it is similar to DT990 Pro, but more of it. They are very heavy so won't long term make it into a top spot in my headphone rotation, but are a new toy so I'll enjoy them on the wood box pc with a SoundBlasterZ playing that New California FONV mod I'm just now getting around to playing (the GTX 580 handles it fine).


----------



## Sir Beregond

rluker5 said:


> View attachment 2478385
> 
> 
> View attachment 2478386


That PSU being where it is sure makes me nervous. Ghetto rigging indeed.


----------



## rluker5

Sir Beregond said:


> That PSU being where it is sure makes me nervous. Ghetto rigging indeed.


The PSU is structural  and hung in front by it's cables by a hook I got from a dollar store. But there isn't much to be nervous about. The psu box is 3/4 air. It claims to be a 775w, but had a hard time feeding 250w to a gpu and 47w to a cpu. 1080ti at 90% power limit stabilized things.


----------



## warpuck

rluker5 said:


> The PSU is structural  and hung in front by it's cables by a hook I got from a dollar store. But there isn't much to be nervous about. The psu box is 3/4 air. It claims to be a 775w, but had a hard time feeding 250w to a gpu and 47w to a cpu. 1080ti at 90% power limit stabilized things.


 I tried that with a 80+ 700 watt, R 5 1600 & R9 390X. Did not work well.
Ended up with the R9 390X paired with a 3800X and the old 1050 watt..
The 700 watt now runs the olde lady's PC with the same R 5 and a HD7790 2G. She is not a gamer so why spend it. She also has trouble seeing the text at 2560 x 1440. So 1080P is for her. I got an old GTX 690 if she wants 2 go with 2 monitors. It works fine with the R 5 1600.
Happens when you get past 40. I guess they don't get it some of us senior citizen game soldiers do play a PC game or 2 now and then.
I ain't springing for anything newer in the GPU Market. 1/2 or more of the cost of a decent new box now is GPU and I ain't doing that.
Yep a 3800X plus good tight timing 3200 speed RAM, X570 mid range motherboard cost less than a decent late issue GPU. You can add a new case and power supply and a 2TB NVMe to that still not get with range of the 1/2 the price of 3070 or 5700XT. If you can find one.
Even the recent AMD APUs are over priced.

Been thinking about redoing The old Rosewill case R 9 390X that is big enough with a wood clad. Did not like they way looked but it was big enough. 
When the snow melts. I am not into RGB anyway


----------



## Nukemaster

rluker5 said:


> Back in the fall of 2019 I started assembling the components for a headphone project but accidentally made an outstanding pair that made my intended project seem unworthy, especially after hearing the speakers for said intended project after they finally came.
> It was to be this pair of speakers: 3 inch Protable Subwoofer Speaker 4OHM 30W Desktop Bluetooth Deep Bass Long stroke Foam Neodymium Speaker For GO+PLAY Micro 1pcs|speaker 4ohm|neodymium speakerspeaker for - AliExpress going into this headphone shell:
> SNIP
> Well covid has indirectly taken some hobbies and given me a bit more time so my bored self decided to dig the stuff out of the attic and do the project.


Your sound card is fine running 4 ohm speakers? Crazy.


----------



## rluker5

Nukemaster said:


> Your sound card is fine running 4 ohm speakers? Crazy.


The sound card only runs them at headphone volume so no big deal. 4 ohm headphones with 77-89mm drivers were common in the 1970s. They had speakers that looked like the leftovers ones I replaced in this set. The big problem with driving old headphones and random headphone sized speakers is they usually put out far too much midrange to sound decent by modern standards and you need to adjust that with a potent graphic equalizer setting to enjoy their sound. This is the bass heavy eq I'm using for these cat helmet headphones: 








Using a +-24dB eq helps a lot and I've found the Creative SoundBlaster Recon3d, 3d pcie, Z, AE-5, G1 and Play!3 to work fine in this. But the usb ones tend to be a little underpowered. And you need the older software for the Z and AE-5 since Creative is nerfing the EQ with the newer versions.
But anything will put out audio. Even an old phone. If you want you could just strip the wires on a 3.5mm headphone to rca adapter, wire the bare end to speakers and stick the headphone jack in your phone to test this. My normal phones even run an 1100 ohm crystal radio headset at medium volume when I turn the phone volume all of the way up.
Nobody will know.
It's all just for fun.
I got lucky when I put together their predecessors that I just cobbed the earpads off of (shown in one of above pics).
Those things went together real easy and look at them running off a fanless tablet and G1: 
clip4 - YouTube


----------



## rluker5

OK just one more 

So I saw these 40mm headphone speakers that caught my eye on ebay. I ordered them figuring I could find some housing to try them out. I remembered seeing some potential candidates at Five Below maybe a year ago so I dragged my daughter over and found the perfect candidate: wired headphones | Five Below | let go & have fun 
Then I measured them and ordered some replacement earpads. The speakers were pop out/ drop in easy. The new ones looked like some clone attempt at high end Focal and were $20. 








Then I did a few more things with tape, a little foam and some screws to make the headphones sound better and not fall apart unexpectedly:








If you plug them into a phone, the change in audio is mostly a more precise sound with a little more bass, so like 90% the same. The replacement speakers aren't tuned for bass, but the shape and powerful magnets have potential and if I heavily eq them with a core3d soundcard they shine. Like for example on 21 Pilots Jumpsuit the deep bass (not the mid bass, sub 100) is the loudest sound and holds it's texture nicely. Also they are quite light and are barely big enough to be over ear headphones with the new pads. And look very subdued and generic. 
But I suspect the speakers are factory seconds since I have to slightly adjust the balance to get them to put out equal levels. And the rubberized coating will likely degrade to a sticky mess in a few years. At least they are nice now.








I didn't need them, but it was an entertaining and easy project.


----------



## Nukemaster

The end result look great.


----------



## rluker5

Ok I've got another one.
In a recent thread MrThatGuy let us know, myself included, that gaming on an m40 (abbreviated to thwart searches) was possible and a bargain if you were willing to put up with some caveats.

I like messing with stuff like this so I immediately picked one up for $119 shipped, 125 with tax and 134 including a power adapter: Tesla M40 K80 M60 P100 Grid M60 NVIDIA Graphics Card 030-0571-00 Power Cable 719970808300 | eBay

It showed up Tuesday and I found the legacy bios installation of windows was incompatible with enabling above 4G decoding on the Z97 Hero I am using this card on.
Above 4G seems required since if I turn it on in the bios the card works and if I turn it off the drivers don't see it and nothing works on it. So I reinstalled windows uefi style. Then saw the card worked but was thermal throttling with the stock cooler but it was late since I got home at 830pm and I went to bed.

In my life I've picked up 3 "for parts, not working" gpus from ebay. Fury nitro and first 780ti worked with a bios flash. 2nd 780ti (gigabyte windforce oc) picked up for sli, didn't. It had caps swollen up like blueberries so I pulled the chip and saved the cooler. Turns out the 780ti windforce cooler fits the m40 quite nicely and is more than adequate for cooling it. I just had to chop off some screw guides around the vrm cooler, gouge out a spot for the m40 power plug, and put it against a table and bend it about a millimeter. It also needed a gpu fan to mobo fan adapter that I had laying around. Did that wed morning since had the day off. Pics below.


Spoiler




























































As MrThatGuy says you then have to install quadro or tsla drivers and change the gpu mode from TCC to WDDM by going to powershell admin and "nvidia-smi -dm 0" if you have just the m40 as your only nvidia gpu in the rig. If you have more nvidia gpus you will have to specify which one to switch. nvidia-smi says you then have to restart for the changes to take effect.
I'm using the igpu from my 5775c which is less capable in terms of display resolution than skylake and later. It doesn't have hdmi 2.0 and the m40 is limited to this being passthrough.

W10 20h2 then automatically assigns the m40 to games. If it doesn't you can override it's error by going to display properties, scrolling down to graphics properties and doing it from there.
















But the half dozen games Ive tried (some heavy use some light some new some old) all do, but userbenchmark doesn't totally do it.








Even though the asic is very good, overclocking is limited by MSI AB:








Memory is basically unlimited, voltage is locked and core tops out at 1226 which is kepler speeds. The power limit is effectively unlimited since the m40 is very efficient at stock volts and the most power I see in games is about 180w.

When I saw the top clocks I knew the chip could do more if I made it do it with a bios flash. And it is for entertainment so I got right to it. But be warned:

*IF YOU FLASH YOUR BIOS NVIDIA DRIVERS WILL NOT LET YOU BOOT IN WDDM MODE. NOT EVEN SIGN OUT THEN SIGN IN*

I'm guessing this is to not let people who have hardware flashed their geforce cards as tslas use tsla features and software.
But you can boot in TCC mode, you just can't game in TCC mode.
After I flashed the bios using the latest JoeDirt/Laithan modded nvflash with a bios altered with maxwellbiostweaker, if my pc shut down for any reason with the m40 in WDDM mode, I would only get as far as a flash of the windows login screen before it would go black and reboot and do an endless loop of this.
I would have to disable above 4G decoding to disable the m40, boot into windows and uninstall the drivers, then reboot, reenable above 4G and reinstall the drivers.
So I initially though I was stuck not being able to get WDDM mode working and not being able to game on the m40 anymore. I even restored the original bios, but nvidia drivers could tell the difference. So ended wednesday.

But I found a way around the nvidia security and I want it to keep working with newer drivers so that's why I'm not naming the m40 in a way that would pop up in a search.
Bios flashing gets me to a stable 1368 core, but I can't change the volts the same way I can with a 780ti so this may be my limit. As soon as the volt altering bios becomes active everything freezes. There is no improvement in power or mem oc with a bios flash so I just get +142 core for the hassle I will detail below.

1. I boot with the m40 in TCC mode.
2. I powershell "nvidia-smi -dm 0"
3. I open this old program DevManView to stop and restart nvidia drivers in windows








4. I powershell "nvidia-smi -dm 1" which will change the m40 back to the TCC mode upon restart, but not until then.

So the m40 that I half bricked with a bios flash will game for the time I want and not need to be hidden until nvidia drivers are removed and reinsalled in the case a game freezes or I forget to change it back to TCC manually.
At least it benchmarks nicely:
















but 3dmark hides the results because they don't recognize the card.

In retrospect, if I knew then what I know now, I would not have flashed the bios.
The m40 does live up to it's potential in gaming in the games I've tried though. It is about 60% the performance of my 1080ti with about 3/4 the power use. But the HDMI on my Z97 Hero will only do 1440p50 on the tv I have it hooked up to via my 5775c so the limitations are there. I found the DP 1.2 out on my Z97 Pro will run decent 4k60 if I use an active DP1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter via the 5775c in my rig with the 1080ti. But that 1080ti is going nowhere. Skylake and later should have less passthrough limitations. Also I found about a 5% performance loss running 4k60 passthrough vs 4k60 gpu direct out.

Shenanigans


MrThatGuy said:


> .





Avacado said:


> .


Edit: Also I can put my pc to sleep after I've submitted the (return to TCC mode upon restart) command and when I wake it, it is still in WDDM mode and working. Which is nice.

2nd edit: Reran timespy with ECC enabled. Reported capacity went from 12288 to 11520MB and gpu score went from 6020 to 5785 with exactly same settings. So I turned ECC back off.


----------



## T.Sharp

@rluker5 You ever listened to Koss Porta-Pro headphones? It's nutty how much bass can come from these glorified Walkman headphones.


Back on topic, here's my Gigabyte Z390 UD ghetto VRM / socket cooling mod. Running a 9700k at 5GHz, the VRM would get into the mid 90's when stress testing. Cut the frame off one of the oem case fans and super-glued it to the NH-D15 bracket.

Over 10c temp reduction under the heaviest loads.


----------



## Avacado

rluker5 said:


> Ok I've got another one.
> In a recent thread MrThatGuy let us know, myself included, that gaming on an m40 (abbreviated to thwart searches) was possible and a bargain if you were willing to put up with some caveats.
> 
> I like messing with stuff like this so I immediately picked one up for $119 shipped, 125 with tax and 134 including a power adapter: Tesla M40 K80 M60 P100 Grid M60 NVIDIA Graphics Card 030-0571-00 Power Cable 719970808300 | eBay
> 
> It showed up Tuesday and I found the legacy bios installation of windows was incompatible with enabling above 4G decoding on the Z97 Hero I am using this card on.
> Above 4G seems required since if I turn it on in the bios the card works and if I turn it off the drivers don't see it and nothing works on it. So I reinstalled windows uefi style. Then saw the card worked but was thermal throttling with the stock cooler but it was late since I got home at 830pm and I went to bed.
> 
> In my life I've picked up 3 "for parts, not working" gpus from ebay. Fury nitro and first 780ti worked with a bios flash. 2nd 780ti (gigabyte windforce oc) picked up for sli, didn't. It had caps swollen up like blueberries so I pulled the chip and saved the cooler. Turns out the 780ti windforce cooler fits the m40 quite nicely and is more than adequate for cooling it. I just had to chop off some screw guides around the vrm cooler, gouge out a spot for the m40 power plug, and put it against a table and bend it about a millimeter. It also needed a gpu fan to mobo fan adapter that I had laying around. Did that wed morning since had the day off. Pics below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484329
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484330
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484331
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484332
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484333
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484334
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As MrThatGuy says you then have to install quadro or tsla drivers and change the gpu mode from TCC to WDDM by going to powershell admin and "nvidia-smi -dm 0" if you have just the m40 as your only nvidia gpu in the rig. If you have more nvidia gpus you will have to specify which one to switch. nvidia-smi says you then have to restart for the changes to take effect.
> I'm using the igpu from my 5775c which is less capable in terms of display resolution than skylake and later. It doesn't have hdmi 2.0 and the m40 is limited to this being passthrough.
> 
> W10 20h2 then automatically assigns the m40 to games. If it doesn't you can override it's error by going to display properties, scrolling down to graphics properties and doing it from there.
> View attachment 2484343
> 
> View attachment 2484344
> 
> But the half dozen games Ive tried (some heavy use some light some new some old) all do, but userbenchmark doesn't totally do it.
> View attachment 2484345
> 
> Even though the asic is very good, overclocking is limited by MSI AB:
> View attachment 2484346
> 
> Memory is basically unlimited, voltage is locked and core tops out at 1226 which is kepler speeds. The power limit is effectively unlimited since the m40 is very efficient at stock volts and the most power I see in games is about 180w.
> 
> When I saw the top clocks I knew the chip could do more if I made it do it with a bios flash. And it is for entertainment so I got right to it. But be warned:
> 
> *IF YOU FLASH YOUR BIOS NVIDIA DRIVERS WILL NOT LET YOU BOOT IN WDDM MODE. NOT EVEN SIGN OUT THEN SIGN IN*
> 
> I'm guessing this is to not let people who have hardware flashed their geforce cards as tslas use tsla features and software.
> But you can boot in TCC mode, you just can't game in TCC mode.
> After I flashed the bios using the latest JoeDirt/Laithan modded nvflash with a bios altered with maxwellbiostweaker, if my pc shut down for any reason with the m40 in WDDM mode, I would only get as far as a flash of the windows login screen before it would go black and reboot and do an endless loop of this.
> I would have to disable above 4G decoding to disable the m40, boot into windows and uninstall the drivers, then reboot, reenable above 4G and reinstall the drivers.
> So I initially though I was stuck not being able to get WDDM mode working and not being able to game on the m40 anymore. I even restored the original bios, but nvidia drivers could tell the difference. So ended wednesday.
> 
> But I found a way around the nvidia security and I want it to keep working with newer drivers so that's why I'm not naming the m40 in a way that would pop up in a search.
> Bios flashing gets me to a stable 1368 core, but I can't change the volts the same way I can with a 780ti so this may be my limit. As soon as the volt altering bios becomes active everything freezes. There is no improvement in power or mem oc with a bios flash so I just get +142 core for the hassle I will detail below.
> 
> 1. I boot with the m40 in TCC mode.
> 2. I powershell "nvidia-smi -dm 0"
> 3. I open this old program DevManView to stop and restart nvidia drivers in windows
> View attachment 2484348
> 
> 4. I powershell "nvidia-smi -dm 1" which will change the m40 back to the TCC mode upon restart, but not until then.
> 
> So the m40 that I half bricked with a bios flash will game for the time I want and not need to be hidden until nvidia drivers are removed and reinsalled in the case a game freezes or I forget to change it back to TCC manually.
> At least it benchmarks nicely:
> View attachment 2484349
> 
> View attachment 2484350
> 
> but 3dmark hides the results because they don't recognize the card.
> 
> In retrospect, if I knew then what I know now, I would not have flashed the bios.
> The m40 does live up to it's potential in gaming in the games I've tried though. It is about 60% the performance of my 1080ti with about 3/4 the power use. But the HDMI on my Z97 Hero will only do 1440p50 on the tv I have it hooked up to via my 5775c so the limitations are there. I found the DP 1.2 out on my Z97 Pro will run decent 4k60 if I use an active DP1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter via the 5775c in my rig with the 1080ti. But that 1080ti is going nowhere. Skylake and later should have less passthrough limitations. Also I found about a 5% performance loss running 4k60 passthrough vs 4k60 gpu direct out.
> 
> Shenanigans
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also I can put my pc to sleep after I've submitted the (return to TCC mode upon restart) command and when I wake it, it is still in WDDM mode and working. Which is nice.


Great results. Temps, clocks and power draw are inline with what I am seeing as well. This was a good write up.


----------



## rluker5

T.Sharp said:


> @rluker5 You ever listened to Koss Porta-Pro headphones? It's nutty how much bass can come from these glorified Walkman headphones.
> 
> 
> Back on topic, here's my Gigabyte Z390 UD ghetto VRM / socket cooling mod. Running a 9700k at 5GHz, the VRM would get into the mid 90's when stress testing. Cut the frame off one of the oem case fans and super-glued it to the NH-D15 bracket.
> 
> Over 10c temp reduction under the heaviest loads.
> 
> View attachment 2484365


Nope, never heard the Porta-Pros. I have a set of KPH30i and KSC75 and hear the Porta-Pros have more bass than either. The KPH30i certainly aren't lacking so the Porta-Pros should be pretty good. The sound quality of those little Koss ones is really overlooked. Monoprice Modern Retros with oversized earpads are also pretty good for that price.

Also good job on pointing out the complete lack of airflow on the backside of the mobo in most pc cases. I'm pretty sure I just have dead air and wires in all of mine. Gpus use thermal pads to dump heat to backplates so why not cool cpu backs as well?


----------



## T.Sharp

rluker5 said:


> Nope, never heard the Porta-Pros. I have a set of KPH30i and KSC75 and hear the Porta-Pros have more bass than either. The KPH30i certainly aren't lacking so the Porta-Pros should be pretty good. The sound quality of those little Koss ones is really overlooked. Monoprice Modern Retros with oversized earpads are also pretty good for that price.
> 
> Also good job on pointing out the complete lack of airflow on the backside of the mobo in most pc cases. I'm pretty sure I just have dead air and wires in all of mine. Gpus use thermal pads to dump heat to backplates so why not cool cpu backs as well?


I also have the KHP30i, they're great too. The sound is very similar to the Porta-Pro.

If you have a high end board with a beefy VRM that only gets to ~50c, cooling the back of the board is pointless, but if it's a low or midrange board, it might be worth it. Putting a small fan on the front VRM heatsink will be a lot more effective though. I just didn't have one on hand and there wasn't an easy way to attach one if I did. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## MrThatGuy

rluker5 said:


> Ok I've got another one.
> In a recent thread MrThatGuy let us know, myself included, that gaming on an m40 (abbreviated to thwart searches) was possible and a bargain if you were willing to put up with some caveats.
> 
> I like messing with stuff like this so I immediately picked one up for $119 shipped, 125 with tax and 134 including a power adapter: Tesla M40 K80 M60 P100 Grid M60 NVIDIA Graphics Card 030-0571-00 Power Cable 719970808300 | eBay
> 
> It showed up Tuesday and I found the legacy bios installation of windows was incompatible with enabling above 4G decoding on the Z97 Hero I am using this card on.
> Above 4G seems required since if I turn it on in the bios the card works and if I turn it off the drivers don't see it and nothing works on it. So I reinstalled windows uefi style. Then saw the card worked but was thermal throttling with the stock cooler but it was late since I got home at 830pm and I went to bed.
> 
> In my life I've picked up 3 "for parts, not working" gpus from ebay. Fury nitro and first 780ti worked with a bios flash. 2nd 780ti (gigabyte windforce oc) picked up for sli, didn't. It had caps swollen up like blueberries so I pulled the chip and saved the cooler. Turns out the 780ti windforce cooler fits the m40 quite nicely and is more than adequate for cooling it. I just had to chop off some screw guides around the vrm cooler, gouge out a spot for the m40 power plug, and put it against a table and bend it about a millimeter. It also needed a gpu fan to mobo fan adapter that I had laying around. Did that wed morning since had the day off. Pics below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484329
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484330
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484331
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484332
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484333
> 
> 
> View attachment 2484334
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As MrThatGuy says you then have to install quadro or tsla drivers and change the gpu mode from TCC to WDDM by going to powershell admin and "nvidia-smi -dm 0" if you have just the m40 as your only nvidia gpu in the rig. If you have more nvidia gpus you will have to specify which one to switch. nvidia-smi says you then have to restart for the changes to take effect.
> I'm using the igpu from my 5775c which is less capable in terms of display resolution than skylake and later. It doesn't have hdmi 2.0 and the m40 is limited to this being passthrough.
> 
> W10 20h2 then automatically assigns the m40 to games. If it doesn't you can override it's error by going to display properties, scrolling down to graphics properties and doing it from there.
> View attachment 2484343
> 
> View attachment 2484344
> 
> But the half dozen games Ive tried (some heavy use some light some new some old) all do, but userbenchmark doesn't totally do it.
> View attachment 2484345
> 
> Even though the asic is very good, overclocking is limited by MSI AB:
> View attachment 2484346
> 
> Memory is basically unlimited, voltage is locked and core tops out at 1226 which is kepler speeds. The power limit is effectively unlimited since the m40 is very efficient at stock volts and the most power I see in games is about 180w.
> 
> When I saw the top clocks I knew the chip could do more if I made it do it with a bios flash. And it is for entertainment so I got right to it. But be warned:
> 
> *IF YOU FLASH YOUR BIOS NVIDIA DRIVERS WILL NOT LET YOU BOOT IN WDDM MODE. NOT EVEN SIGN OUT THEN SIGN IN*
> 
> I'm guessing this is to not let people who have hardware flashed their geforce cards as tslas use tsla features and software.
> But you can boot in TCC mode, you just can't game in TCC mode.
> After I flashed the bios using the latest JoeDirt/Laithan modded nvflash with a bios altered with maxwellbiostweaker, if my pc shut down for any reason with the m40 in WDDM mode, I would only get as far as a flash of the windows login screen before it would go black and reboot and do an endless loop of this.
> I would have to disable above 4G decoding to disable the m40, boot into windows and uninstall the drivers, then reboot, reenable above 4G and reinstall the drivers.
> So I initially though I was stuck not being able to get WDDM mode working and not being able to game on the m40 anymore. I even restored the original bios, but nvidia drivers could tell the difference. So ended wednesday.
> 
> But I found a way around the nvidia security and I want it to keep working with newer drivers so that's why I'm not naming the m40 in a way that would pop up in a search.
> Bios flashing gets me to a stable 1368 core, but I can't change the volts the same way I can with a 780ti so this may be my limit. As soon as the volt altering bios becomes active everything freezes. There is no improvement in power or mem oc with a bios flash so I just get +142 core for the hassle I will detail below.
> 
> 1. I boot with the m40 in TCC mode.
> 2. I powershell "nvidia-smi -dm 0"
> 3. I open this old program DevManView to stop and restart nvidia drivers in windows
> View attachment 2484348
> 
> 4. I powershell "nvidia-smi -dm 1" which will change the m40 back to the TCC mode upon restart, but not until then.
> 
> So the m40 that I half bricked with a bios flash will game for the time I want and not need to be hidden until nvidia drivers are removed and reinsalled in the case a game freezes or I forget to change it back to TCC manually.
> At least it benchmarks nicely:
> View attachment 2484349
> 
> View attachment 2484350
> 
> but 3dmark hides the results because they don't recognize the card.
> 
> In retrospect, if I knew then what I know now, I would not have flashed the bios.
> The m40 does live up to it's potential in gaming in the games I've tried though. It is about 60% the performance of my 1080ti with about 3/4 the power use. But the HDMI on my Z97 Hero will only do 1440p50 on the tv I have it hooked up to via my 5775c so the limitations are there. I found the DP 1.2 out on my Z97 Pro will run decent 4k60 if I use an active DP1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter via the 5775c in my rig with the 1080ti. But that 1080ti is going nowhere. Skylake and later should have less passthrough limitations. Also I found about a 5% performance loss running 4k60 passthrough vs 4k60 gpu direct out.
> 
> Shenanigans
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Also I can put my pc to sleep after I've submitted the (return to TCC mode upon restart) command and when I wake it, it is still in WDDM mode and working. Which is nice.


Nice results, I'm glad someone else was able to validate that you don't need an insider preview of windows to use it if you've got an integrated GPU.

Regarding the BIOS mod, have you tried disabling device driver signing enforcement? I found it was necessary to get my GRID M40 working under windows. (also a fun card, its basically four 4GB 750 Ti's on one board)


----------



## Nukemaster

I have been using KSC75s for years.
I still have 2 pairs new in box.
After a while the cables get stiff(not sure why) and after enough abuse the cables break.
I keep spares.


----------



## rluker5

MrThatGuy said:


> Nice results, I'm glad someone else was able to validate that you don't need an insider preview of windows to use it if you've got an integrated GPU.
> 
> Regarding the BIOS mod, have you tried disabling device driver signing enforcement? I found it was necessary to get my GRID M40 working under windows. (also a fun card, its basically four 4GB 750 Ti's on one board)


That's some fancy stuff you have going on, and I don't know how to do a lot of it, but if I set "bcdedit /set testsigning off" wouldn't that just affect window's acceptance of the nvidia driver?
I don't think that would apply to the nvidia driver's behavior in accepting my bios modded card. Which I'm pretty sure is what is happening now because everything was fine until I flashed the vbios, the nvidia driver hasn't changed. To fix that I would have to change the nvidia driver like you did. But instead of adding a card to the list, I would have to remove either a check of the card's bios or the action caused from it failing that check. If I knew how to change the nvidia driver to my liking then I may need to tell windows to just take it as is, but otherwise it won't help.
If I'm understanding this correctly that is.
But thanks for the creative suggestion. Sometimes you have to go out of the box and break some rules to get something new to work. And getting windows to accept altered drivers may be handy if the gpu manufacturers start gimping cards with them.


----------



## rluker5

Nukemaster said:


> I have been using KSC75s for years.
> I still have 2 pairs new in box.
> After a while the cables get stiff(not sure why) and after enough abuse the cables break.
> I keep spares.


I just picked up my first set of KSC75s a couple of weeks ago. To me they sound like a brighter, clearer KPH30i with a more open soundstage after I bent the wires to hold them snug. But they can tire my ears sometimes where the KPH30i is more relaxed and comfortable. 

I compared the KSC75 to my Sennheiser HD598se on my phone and they beat them in almost every regard. Deeper, clearer bass(not really the 598s strong point, but still) higher, clearer treble, clearer overall, soundstage just as wide without that high school hallway effect the 598s have that used to impress me, and they are more comfortable (so long as my ears aren't sore from 12 hours of covid mask). The only reason I would go with the Sennheiser is if I wanted a more gentle sound without the extra upper treble and lower bass, or if I wanted to look fancy or something. The KPH30i have a noticeably narrower soundstage than either and since they have less treble and are less clear then the KSC75 I was expecting them to also have less compared to the 598se, but head to head the KPH30i was clearer and more dynamic in treble and bass while still being relaxed sounding. 

Both of those Koss headsets are great portable open sounding headphones.

Comparing them reminded me of how 2 quality and inexpensive earbuds from Xiaomi compare: the MI Pro HD QTEJ02JY (graphene/balanced armature hybrid, sound like KSC75) and Xiaomi piston (titanium driver, sound like KPH30i). They even match colors. Grey for laid back and silver for dynamic. Those buds will definitely be seeing use again as soon as I have to start mowing my lawn again.


----------



## rluker5

Hi.
More ghetto rigging shennanigans:
I had a post about a new Creative product like yesterday and got a response showing the eq was not nearly potent enough for my desires.
I've got a bunch of Creative products and got the idea to daisy chain eq's from onboard through some simulation of the relatively weak one on a new creative product so I daisy chained my laptop realtek one out the headphone jack through a recon3d usb's(a powerful eq, but the dac tops out at 16bit/48khz) line in, to some headphones with the +-24dB limited to +-6dB and the bass was still pretty amplified. 

But I didn't stop there. If a lot of bass is good more must be better so I tried daisy chaining my AE-5 through my recon3d to headphones and am happy to have the option to completely drown out everything else if I want to. I just have to accept the lower audio quality. 








I'm not claiming that somebody will like this, just that it can be done. Now I wish I still had that G6  But I do remember software compatibility issues with the G6 being installed on the same pc as my AE5. I think the software versions must have been too similar. Realtek and Creative seem to coexist fine for me, as does old and new Creative.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Fixed GTX 650 Ti. A resistor broke off the pex circuit. Replaced it with a pot and it works again. Also doubles as a volt mod. Not sure if it's needed for OCing on air.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

When you receive a Dewalt tool but only have Ridgid batteries.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Swapped the LEDs in my Schiit dac and amp. I didn't like the white. It was too bright and kinda blue, like cheap HID lighting. I replaced them with green LEDs and swapped the resistor to adjust the brightness. I couldn't hold the smd resistor in place with my fingers, so I made tweezers out of windshield wiper inserts.


----------



## speed_demon

Nukemaster said:


> I have been using KSC75s for years.
> I still have 2 pairs new in box.
> After a while the cables get stiff(not sure why) and after enough abuse the cables break.
> I keep spares.


At one point I was the main reseller of these ear phones on ebay. Got a 300+ trader rating selling nothing but these, and buying them from my local radioshack the whole time. Basically everybody that bought a pair loved them. Shame I never stopped to save a pair for myself though.


----------



## Xinoxide

speed_demon said:


> At one point I was the main reseller of these ear phones on ebay. Got a 300+ trader rating selling nothing but these, and buying them from my local radioshack the whole time. Basically everybody that bought a pair loved them. Shame I never stopped to save a pair for myself though.



Im on alienware ultrasone body with proline 2500s drivers. Ported the housings and packed with cotton. Still missing some mids. :]


----------



## Fluxmaven

I had been planning on getting an RTX 3060ti-70 for my Plex server so I could use it for Plex, as an HTPC, and do Steam in home streaming off of it onto my 4K TV. Plans have changed. So it's just going to be running headless in the corner of my room running Plex. 

My roommate offered to loan me his backup Quadro P4000. Great other than the obnoxious fan it comes with. I considered slapping an EK thermosphere block I had laying around on it, but I wanted it to be quick and easy to swap back to stock when I get a new card and give this back to him.

Couple minutes of CAD work (cardboard aided design) later and I have a much quieter card.


----------



## JSHamlet234

My solution for getting 2 cards running in SLI to run within 1 degree of each other. It's a piece of plastic cut from a container that originally held leather conditioning wipes and a piece of rubber tubing with a slit cut in it to act like a gasket. I tried a lot of things, but nothing works better.


----------



## chyneuze

chyneuze said:


> Oops, cables, they are always there ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I also had another Ghetto Mod right next to the PC: The screen!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two screens with the HS. I modified it to work with an ATX power supply.
> 
> Note the power board cut to keep the backlight and the sata cable to hang the screen


Still Working great


----------

