# Complete Beginner's Guide to HTPC



## EvilGenius007

(suggestions welcome)

*COMPONENT RECOMMENDATIONS*

A great debt is owed to "renethx" at AVS Forum for h(er|is) original guide, which contains a much wider variety of configurations. I have attempted to pare down the original to a few simple suggestions that take into account the focus of builders here at OCN. For this reason, features like overclocking potential & "best bang for the buck" are emphasized in most of these components.

_*Component "Philosophy"*_
Note that when choosing parts for an HTPC build special consideration is given to aspects which are often disregarded in designing gaming or productivity systems. To keep the HTPC quiet, and to reduce operating cost, it's usally a good idea to emphasize energy efficiency and low power consumption components. This includes selecting slower hard drives, 80 Plus certified power supplies, low TDP processors, and using as many other components as possible which will offer small trade-offs in performance for large savings in heat, noise, and energy costs.

Of course, one efficient way to minimize power consumption and costs is to combine your HTPC with the functionality of one or more other classes of computer. For instance, a home media server or gaming rig. Doing so can reduce the costs compared to building two seperate systems, and prove more energy efficient--depending on your usage patterns. However, you will need to take care in your component selections to make sure enough computing power is present to fulfill both roles.

Last Updated: _2010.12.01_
_*Sample Build: Low Budget, Small Form Factor*_
$100 Gigabyte GA-880GMA-UD2H AM3 AMD 880G Micro ATX Motherboard
$60 AMD Athlon II X2 245 Regor 2.9GHz Socket AM3 65W Dual-Core Processor
$46 G.Skill F3-10666CL9D-4GBECO 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1333 Memory
$65 Western Digital WD10EARS 1TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$60 Moneual Lab Y601B Micro Case with 300W TFX Power Supply
*Total: $331*

_While this is a "barebones" configuration, it will be sufficient for all of the primary functions of an HTPC. While I still can endorse most of the 785G based motherboards, the I've moved my recommendation to a new 880G based board. This board keeps retains the positive features of its forerunner, trading a PCI slot for a PCI-E x16 slot (at x4 speed) while adding both USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0 Gbps functionality. An entry level dual-core and 2x1GB DDR3 RAM kit are all that are needed for most HTPC tasks--with RAM prices back at more sane levels, it may be worth it to pick up a 2x2GB kit to give you more flexiblity, though. AMD, regrettably IMO, seems to have largely abandoned the Hybrid Crossfire option, but the onboard GPU should also be enough for most HTPC needs. If it's not, consider an entry level 5000-series discrete GPU to gain decent video performance and bitstreaming audio._

_*Sample Build: Mid Budget, Full ATX Form Factor*_
$99 Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gbps USB 3.0 ATX Motherboard
$100 AMD Athlon II X4 640 3.0GHz AM3 95W Quad-Core Processor
$50 G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 Memory
$65 Western Digital WD10EARS 1TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$150 Silverstone GD01B-R Black Steel/Aluminum ATX Computer Case
$65 OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ500MXSP 500W 80 PLUS Certified Modular Power Supply
$120 Sapphire 100284L Radeon HD 5750 1GB GDDR5 Video Card
*Total: $649*

_The blessing of choosing a build in this price range is that there are a wide variety of options to customize it to your needs. Users wanting more computational power might opt for the additional cache of a 95W Phenom II or go all out with a hexa-core burner. Depending on your video processing needs you could also downscale your video card to the HD 5670 levels. Those wanting to increase their gaming capabilities have the option to add a second HD 5750 (and/or upgrade to a higher end card or cards) in CrossFireX (for which a mobo upgrade is recommended), or choose from any number of full-size video cards, and may cut costs by selecting a less expensive case._

_*Sample Build: Mid Budget, Full ATX Form Factor (Non-Gaming)*_
$150 Asus P7H57D-V EVO LGA 1156 Intel H57 ATX Motherboard
$120 Intel Core i3-530 2.93GHz LGA 1156 73W Dual-Core Processor
$80 G.Skill ECO Series F3-12800CL8D-4GBECO 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 Memory
$65 Western Digital WD10EARS 1TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$150 Silverstone GD01B-R Black Steel/Aluminum ATX Computer Case
$60 OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ500MXSP 500W 80 PLUS Certified Modular Power Supply
$0 Onboard graphics
*Total: $625*

_Apart from being "future proof" with support for SATA 6.0 Gbps, USB 3.0 and both SLI & CrossFireX compatibility, there's also a strong upgrade path through Core i5 & i7 processors. However, you do sacrifice a powerful, DirectX 11 video card, and two processor cores to keep costs competitive, making this a system much less capable of playing modern games._

_*Sample Build: High Budget, Full ATX Form Factor*_
$175 MSI P55A Fuzion LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard
$200 Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core
$60 G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 Memory
$90 Western Digital WD20EARS 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$170 Silverstone Black LC20B-M ATX Media Center / HTPC Case
$130 Silverstone ST75F-P 750W 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Power Supply
$190 Gigabyte GV-N460OC-1GI GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB GDDR5 Video Card
*Total: $1015*

_This motherboard and CPU combo will allow you a great deal of overclocking headroom, or cool and quiet operation at stock speeds. Also, the intelligent power management built in to this new tech will automatically increase your speed on single-threaded applications, without much increase in power consumption. To top it all off, you're no longer forced to choose your GPU camp outright, but can now fluctuate at will between Crossfire and SLI solutions. You can actually combine any TWO video cards with the latest technology._

_*Sample Build: Extraordinary Budget, Full ATX Form Factor*_
$330 Asus P6T6 WS Revolution with NF200 3xPCIe true x16 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
$295 Intel Core i7 950 LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor
$150 Corsair Dominator TR3X6G1600C8D 6GB (3 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 Memory
$180 Mushkin Enhanced Callisto Deluxe MKNSSDCL90GB-DX 2.5" 90GB SATA II MLC Solid State Disk
$90 Western Digital WD20EARS 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$660 Silverstone Black Aluminum CW03B-MT ATX Computer Case
$290CORSAIR Professional Series AX1200 1200W 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
$470 EVGA 015-P3-1480-AR GeForce GTX 480 1.5GB GDDR5 Video Card
*Total: $2465 (single vid card), $2935 (dual-GPU SLI)*

_If this computer can't do what you want it to do, I recommend revising your expectations, or contacting these guys. But, seriously, this PC steps well outside of the realm of the HTPC and becomes a gaming and computing powerhouse, especially if you take a multi-GPU approach and purchase more than one of the suggested, already ridiculously overpowered, gaming video cards._

_*Additional Components: All Builds*_
Tuners:

$110 *SiliconDust HDHomeRun Ethernet Interface Network-based Dual Digital HDTV Tuner*
$125 Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250 Media Center Kit 1213 PCI-Express x1 Dual TV Tuner
$85 AVerMedia AVerTV Combo G2 PCI-Express x1 Tuner Card (White Box)
$65 AVerMedia AVerTVHD Duet PCI-Express x1 Tuner Card (White Box)
_If you wish to record and/or timeshift TV you'll need a tuner or tuner card. The products recommended above are intended for areas where ClearQAM or ATSC (digital OTA) broadcasts are being watched & recorded. While some products capable of using CableCard are currently available, there are products on the horizon which require less "hacking" to function, making the current choices impossible to recommend._

Optical Drives:

$100 *LG WH10LS30 SATA 10X Blu-ray, 10X BD-R, 2X BD-RE & 16X DVDÂ±RW Burner Optical Drive*
$80 LG CH10LS20K SATA 10X Blu-ray & 16X DVDÂ±RW Burner Optical Drive
$65 LITE-ON iHOS104-08 SATA 4X Blu-ray Reader Optical Drive
$20 Samsung SH-S223L SATA 22X DVDÂ±RW with LightScribe Optical Drive
_Since LG has discontinued its all-media drives capable of Blu-ray & HD-DVD playback, my recommendations have had to change significantly. At the very least an inexpensive DVDÂ±RW drive is suggested. The next step up in price and features is a jump to a Blu-ray player with no burning functionality. For a slight increase you can restore DVDÂ±RW burning, or for an ever decreasing chunk of change you can "future proof" your system with a BD-R burner. As BD-R media has fallen significantly in cost lately, and burners have trended more and more towards competitive pricing, they're no longer an option to discount off-handedly._

Sound Cards:

$125 *Asus Xonar HDAV1.3 Slim 24-bit 192KHz PCI*
$90 Asus Xonar D1 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI
$50 Asus Xonar DS 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI

$0 Onboard Motherboard Audio
_A great place to keep costs down is by choosing to give your motherboard's onboard or integrated audio a chance before purchasing a sound card. Two great options which fit into almost all cases, and work with the bulk of motherboards, are products from the Xonar audio line by Asus. While the DS or D1 will be enough for most people, if you require bitstreaming (which means you know what bitstreaming is), the HDAV Slim is now available._

*CONTROLLING YOUR HTPC*

There are several options available to the HTPC enthusiast that span a range of prices, technical complexity, and ease of use. (Special thanks to DuckieHo and downlinx for their educational posts on this topic.)

*Dedicated IR "Media Center Remote" (approx. $8 [eBay] - $50+)* - A dedicated Media Center remote will allow you to directly control most media playback applications (WMC, Hulu desktop, Boxee, XBMC, etc.) and with advanced configuration and software ( http://www.eventghost.org/ ) can even be used for more advanced functions (instrcutions on VLC setup here, courtesy of downlinx) . Your PC will need an IR receiver, which is included in most remote "kits" and may also be included with your tuner card (if it includes a remote) or if you use a purpose-built HTPC case (such as the Antec Micro Fusion recommended above).
$25 Windows Media Center Remote with USB Receiver
$70 Antec VERIS Premier MultimediaStation internal IR receiver w/ VFD and remote

*Programmable Multi-Function Remote (approx. $25 [used] - $250+)* - Some remotes, such as the Logitech Harmony series, can combine control of an HTPC with the ability to control your other home theatre components, namely your TV, speakers/receiver, and cable box, etc. While programming the remote to function exactly as desired can be time consuming, this gives you a high degree of control from a single device. You will need an IR receiver (and/or a RF receiver/converter for the higher end models that reside out-of-sight) which is usually not included with such remotes.
$50 Logitech Harmony 300
$80 Logitech Haromny 600
$120 Logitech Harmony 700
$285 Logitech Harmony 900

*Gamepads with software mapped commands ($15 - $55)* - For those who want their HTPC experience to mimic that of an Xbox or PlayStation, you can! Pick your favorite gamepad and head over to http://www.xpadder.com/ for software & support.
$15 Philips 2.4GHz Wireless Controller
$31 Logitech Cordless RumblePad 2
$55 Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows

*Mini Wireless Keyboard/Mice/Remote Devices ($30 - $120)* - Available in entry level generic form as well as in "high end" form from name brands like Logitech, and at several points in between, these devices combine a small palm-sized keyboard with a built in pointing device and are intended to give you full control of your HTPC. They often have built-in shortcut keys for the common media tasks (Play/Pause, Stop, FF/SkipFwd, RW/SkipBack, etc.).
~$30 "iPazzport" Mini Wireless Keyboard/Trackpad
~$45 Lenovo Multimedia Remote with Keyboard
~$50 "Rii" Mini Wireless Keyboard/Trackpad
~$115 Logitech diNovo Mini

*Standard Wireless Keyboards/Mice ($20 - $150+)* - Perfect for those who value the full PC experience over concealing the fact that your media set-up is being run by a PC. It's like having a standard keyboard and mouse controlling a PC because... well, that is in fact what you're doing.







Of course, you can also run USB extension cords or use your front ports for direct-connected set-ups as well.
*Smart Phones and i-Pods/Pads/Phones (too expensive for sole-purpose deployment)* - If you have an appropriate receiver (Bluetooth, most likely) and an iPod touch/iPad or an advanced smart phone, there may be a downloadable software application you can use to control your HTPC.
*KEEPING YOUR HTPC QUIET*

For many HTPC applications you'll want a system that is quieter than a typical PC. There are several ways to accomplish this goal. The least expensive is to take advantage of built-in features provided by most newer motherboards that will automatically control fan speeds based on temperatures reported by integrated sensors. Alternatively, you can try using a free program called SpeedFan if your motherboard doesn't support automatic speed control, or you're not comfortable going into the BIOS to configure it. If neither solution is getting results, you may need a hardware fan controller (available in a variety of configurations) or fans with built-in thermal control. Replacing your stock CPU heatsink with an aftermarket model designed to be cool and quiet is also a fairly cost effective approach.

The next step up in effectiveness/cost is using a case silencing material, such as flashing tape (read more) or actual specifically designed sound dampening foam. Since these materials will also insulate heat in areas without good airflow, you should make sure there aren't dead spots in your case's interior.

For the most complete noise reduction, you may want to consider water-cooling. However, for almost all applications this would be overkill, and can be avoided by careful selection of components that compliment the way you intend to use your system.


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## EvilGenius007

(suggestions welcome)

*GLOSSARY OF HTPC ABBREVIATIONS, ACRONYMS AND TERMS*

analog hole: term associated with certain protection schemes, such as HDCP, whereby a signal is converted from digital to analog (and often converted back) to allow for playback on "unauthorized" device(s); as a real or perceived loss of signal quality may occur during this process, it is not necessarily considered circumvention and is in fact largely a designed effect

ATSC: Advanced Television Systems Committee, the digital format for OTA broadcasts that is replacing NTSC

Boxee: "social" media playback interface

ClearQAM: (Quadrature Amplitude Modulation) HD digital signals provided by cable companies without DRM

codec: software for encoding or decoding digital media

DP: Display Port, a (mostly defeated) type of video/audio connection championed by Dell, compatible with DVI and HDMI formats

DPL: Dolby Pro Logic, multi-channel audio encoding/decoding used in many films & converted by home theatre audio receivers, or software/PC component alternatives

DRM: Digital Rights Management, various techniques employed by content providers in a (futile) attempt to deter piracty, largely capable only of making legal uses of legitimately purchased content require unnecessary complexity

DVI: Digital Visual Interface, type of connection capable of carrying video signals in a variety of resolutions, well exceeding 1080p; some proprietary formats, use the DVI to also carry audio, most notably ATI

FLAC: Free Losless Audio Codec, an open source codec for compressing audio signals without any loss of quality

HD: High Definition, now largely refers to 1080p, though previously in widespread use (by unscrupulous TV manufacturers) to refer to 720p and 1080i capable televisions

HDCP: High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection, prevents playback of high-definition content on "unapproved" devices

HDMI: High-Definition Multimedia Interface, type of connection capable of carrying both audio and video signals in HD

HTPC: home theatre personal computer

MCE: Media Center Edition, an informal abbreviation for Windows XP Media Center Edition

MPC: Media Player Classic, an open source, free software program for playback of various media files

NTSC: National Television System Committee, analog OTA signals in the U.S., currently being phased out and replaced by ATSC

OTA: over the air, usually used to describe ATSC signals received from local stations via an antenna

PDVD (or PDVD9): PowerDVD, currently in version 9 this is commercial software from the CyberLink company for the playback of various media, most notably Blu-Ray and HD-DVD

"rip": to archive, usually from an optical disc to a hard drive; often has connotations of breaking or circumventing copy protection measures (which themselves break or circumvent the well recognized doctrine of fair use)--here it is best to avoid this term when "archive" will suffice

TMT (or TMT3): Total Media Theatre, currently in version 3 this is commercial software from the ArcSoft company for the playback of various media, most notably Blu-Ray and HD-DVD

VLC: originally VideoLAN Client, an open source, free software program for playback of various media files

VMC: Vista Media Center, the media client integrated into Windows Vista Home Premium and Ultimate editions

WMC: Windows Media Center, the general name for media client integrated first into Windows XP MCE

XBMC: X-Box Media Center (originally designed for the X-Box, since ported to PC)

*FURTHER READING*

Info/Software> Official HTPC Software Thread
Info/Software> TheHTPC.net Plug-in list
Info/Display> Guide to Calibrating Your Display
Info/Forum> Home Theater Computer forums @ AVS (Highly technical, not nec. nooby friendly)
Info/Forum> The Green Button Forums (Windows Media Center support)
Info/Forum> Home Cinema PCs @ AVForums
Info/Forum> Australia Media Center Community


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## DarkNite

Does HDCP actually stop avergae HTPC users from viewing anything? My old gpu had hdcp on it and it never checked or anything. Does it do anything??


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DarkNite* 
Does HDCP actually stop avergae HTPC users from viewing anything? My old gpu had hdcp on it and it never checked or anything. Does it do anything??

Yes. While my Blu-Ray drive was in my 8600GTS system I had to send the signal to my monitor over a VGA/DVI adapted cable. The playback software (PDVD7.3) down-res'ed everything to standard definition. So, I wasn't completely stopped from viewing but I did have to create an "analog hole", and suffer a loss of signal quality. (PS, thanks for reminding me that a definition of analog hole might be in order in the glossary.)

Fortunately, nearly all modern video cards and monitors are HDCP compliant, so a simple "upgrade" to something like a Radeon HD3450 or GeForce 9400 would have resolved my issue. (So did moving the optical drive to my HTPC, which uses 790GX/HD3470).


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## HITandRUN

Option for remote controls missing. I use the SoundGraph iMON 2.4G and I love it.


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HITandRUN* 
Option for remote controls missing. I use the SoundGraph iMON 2.4G and I love it.

Missing from where? On the self-examination? I tried to ask questions that would be useful in determining what was needed for multiple rather than single components.

I suppose "input" could be considered a class of components... What features made you choose that specific remote instead of the others available on the market?

Or were you referring to somewhere else entirely?


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## kneeki

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DarkNite* 
Does HDCP actually stop avergae HTPC users from viewing anything? My old gpu had hdcp on it and it never checked or anything. Does it do anything??

I refuse to 'purchase' anything with *CP on it. When it comes to home viewing, if I cannot view what I 'purchased' I didn't actually purchase it did I? To answer your question though, it does stop you from viewing high quality video on your HTPC.

Trusted Computing.


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## EvilGenius007

Added basic connection guide. If anyone knows of products that directly allow any likely output/input combination I'm missing, please let me know.


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## EvilGenius007

Added some suggestions for complete systems.


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## wierdo124

Wow, great, GREAT work EvilGenius. Rep for you!


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## N2Gaming

Great thread.









I wish you had a list of service providers and the type of signal each provider broadcast. This would make it easier to determine the type of service I have or plan on getting to work w/a specific Tuner card/s.

Thank you,

N2G


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I wish you had a list of service providers and the type of signal each provider broadcast. This would make it easier to determine the type of service I have or plan on getting to work w/a specific Tuner card/s.

That's an excellent suggestion, I'll definitely look into this and see how complete a list I can compile!

EDIT: Gathering some links here for a write-up.
http://tv.about.com/od/cableandsatel...ompare.htm?p=1

EDIT 2: Seems like this information is highly specific to particular regions. I'm not sure a comprehensive list is possible.


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## N2Gaming

I'm interested in IPTV. I have been trying to find out if there is a web sight that broadcasts live channels like The History Channel, Discovery Channel, MTV etc etc live for free. That would make it easy for my to just purchase the high speed internet and then tune to my favorite channels over the internet. I'm all ears if any one has any suggestions.

Thank you,

N2G


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## PizzaMan

Great guild Evil!

I need alittle help. I've given up trying to program my dad's comp to work his cable box. I can get it to work and change channels in command line, but that's just not going to work for my 56 year old father who's not very PC savy. I need to get him setup with his HTPC to work as a PVR. His cable is digital. His currant cable box can record two channels at a time. I would like to config is HTPC to do this for him. I need to get it setup so he can watch one show and record something else and with a GUI that's easy to learn. I'm a little confused as to what tuner card would be right for the job.

thx in advanced for any help and suggestions.


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## DuckieHo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PizzaMan* 
Great guild Evil!

I need alittle help. I've given up trying to program my dad's comp to work his cable box. I can get it to work and change channels in command line, but that's just not going to work for my 56 year old father who's not very PC savy. I need to get him setup with his HTPC to work as a PVR. His cable is digital. His currant cable box can record two channels at a time. I would like to config is HTPC to do this for him. I need to get it setup so he can watch one show and record something else and with a GUI that's easy to learn. I'm a little confused as to what tuner card would be right for the job.

thx in advanced for any help and suggestions.


Do you have an IR blaster?

To record two encrypted channels at a time with HTPC, you will need two set-top boxes.


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## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvilGenius007* 
That's an excellent suggestion, I'll definitely look into this and see how complete a list I can compile!

EDIT: Gathering some links here for a write-up.
http://tv.about.com/od/cableandsatel...ompare.htm?p=1

EDIT 2: Seems like this information is highly specific to particular regions. I'm not sure a comprehensive list is possible.

I guess the next question would be what is the best way to ask my provider "Comcast atm" what type of signal they broadcast and who would be the best person at that company to answer this question? This way I will know what type of tv tuner cards are compatible w/the signal

Thank you,

N2G


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## DuckieHo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *N2Gaming* 
I guess the next question would be what is the best way to ask my provider "Comcast atm" what type of signal they broadcast and who would be the best person at that company to answer this question? This way I will know what type of tv tuner cards are compatible w/the signal

Thank you,

N2G


Comcast sends both digital (including ClearQAM) and analogue signals. You can get any channel under 100 and its not encrypted.

You can use this lookup to see what digital channels you can get: http://www.silicondust.com/hdhomerun/channels


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## N2Gaming

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DuckieHo* 
Comcast sends both digital (including ClearQAM) and analogue signals. You can get any channel under 100 and its not encrypted.

You can use this lookup to see what digital channels you can get: http://www.silicondust.com/hdhomerun/channels

Thank you DuckieHo, I the lookup thing those channels look like the OTA channels that my tv already received w/the digital antenna


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## EvilGenius007

Thanks DuckieHo, great help! That link is especially useful.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PizzaMan* 
His cable is digital. His currant cable box can record two channels at a time. I would like to config is HTPC to do this for him. I need to get it setup so he can watch one show and record something else and with a GUI that's easy to learn. I'm a little confused as to what tuner card would be right for the job.

With digital cable I think you'll either need to go the IR blaster route, as DuckieHo alluded to, limit yourself to ClearQAM channels, or get an OCUR compliant mobo & purchase a cable card tuner (or two).


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## PizzaMan

Well, recording two channels is more of a perk. The main objective is getting him able to schedule recordings and watching as many channels as are offered by his cable service. After connecting the cable directly to the TV, I can tell that some channels are encyrpted. Are their tuner card available that will decrypt his channels.

ATM, his service is offering the SA 8300HD cable box if that helps.


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## EvilGenius007

Pizza, you should check out the link Duckie provided--input your ZIP code, choose your cable provider & see which stations will be available with a "normal" clearQAM capable tuner. If it's not the stations that will work for your father, you'll be looking for OCUR mobo + cable card (+ some extra hoops).


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## DuckYy

just a quick question, what kind of graphic card would you recommend using for a 52" tv? do you need like a 4850 or can a 3850 do the job?

also, for the proc, would a 5050e be enough?


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## EvilGenius007

The size of the TV won't matter, just the resolution. A 1080p television will be 1920x1080 regardless of physical size. If you're not going to do gaming, a 4550 should be enough. For gaming I'd probably recommend a 4770 before a 4850, as you'll save a chunk of change and have less heat issues. If you can stretch your budget to 4770 crossfire you'll definitely not be GPU limited at 1920x1080 gaming.

For your proc, a 5050e should also be fine due to the fixed resolution.


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## DuckieHo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DuckYy* 
just a quick question, what kind of graphic card would you recommend using for a 52" tv? do you need like a 4850 or can a 3850 do the job?

also, for the proc, would a 5050e be enough?

A $20 HD3450 or onboard HD3200 has been shown to be enough for 1080p. It doesn't take much using new tech that has been explicitly designed for HD playback. A $20 new video card is better at playback than some much more powerful older video cards (like the 8800GTX).


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## skieper

very nice guide, but how about cooling sugestions? I just threw in some 'old' parts in a small box and started from there with my build. The CPU Pentium D 3.0GHz can still handle most off the games atm but when pushed to 100% for a longer stretch, the fan also goes to 100% making the small almost inaudible box turn into a 737 at take-off. Since I'm planning to change the CPU to a quad Q8200 that's still lying here, im not planning on changing the cooling right now.
But for people having the same issue and that not have a 'cooler' spare CPU it might be interesting to know which coolers are recomended and which to stay clear from.
Especially with the limited airflow and space I think for many people a little help in choosing a good/great cooler would be very much appriciated.


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## EvilGenius007

I think that's a pretty good suggestion Skieper, but it's hard to verify the noise levels of a product without actually owning it. I can recommend the Cooler Master RR-CCH-P912-GP CPU Cooler and the Arctic Cooling ACF8PWM 80mm Case Fan as starting points, because I have experience with them.

I'll try to find some good resources for further reading on the topic, and perhaps some general guidelines as far as converting "dB" reported by manufacturers into acceptable & unacceptable noise ranges.


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## PizzaMan

I ended up ordering this card. Took the cable connection, put a 2-way splitter on the end and made two connections to the tuner card. Installed software and now have my dad recording on two tuners. Ended up not needing the set-top box for his installation. Thanks for the help guys.


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## EvilGenius007

Glad it's working out for you! The HVR-2250 actually gets two TV signals from 1 connection, though. The second connection is for FM Radio. If you're connecting cable and not an antenna I'd go ahead & disconnect it!


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvilGenius007* 
Glad it's working out for you! The HVR-2250 actually gets two TV signals from 1 connection, though. The second connection is for FM Radio. If you're connecting cable and not an antenna I'd go ahead & disconnect it!










With only one cable connected it only set up one tuner. I had to connect a second cable to the one labeled as FM. The FM will work with a normal signal.


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## skieper

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvilGenius007* 
I think that's a pretty good suggestion Skieper, but it's hard to verify the noise levels of a product without actually owning it. I can recommend the Cooler Master RR-CCH-P912-GP CPU Cooler and the Arctic Cooling ACF8PWM 80mm Case Fan as starting points, because I have experience with them.

I'll try to find some good resources for further reading on the topic, and perhaps some general guidelines as far as converting "dB" reported by manufacturers into acceptable & unacceptable noise ranges.

I own a Zalman 9700 which provides great cooling even at a mere 1000RPM, but it's rather loud at higher RPM, and I honestly doubt that it fits in all HTPC. As for the gfx card cooler, providing u have the space to install it (takes up 2 extra slots) I always recommend the Artic-Cooling twin turbo. I have it, at 100% (12V setting) u barely hear it and the cooling (@ 7V setting) is definitly better then stock.

I made an extra side hole in my HTPC to fit a 12cm fan, atm it's a ex-PSU fan, which is very audible, but the plan is to put a Tacens ventus pro instead. I've read very good reviews on the fan good CFM combined with low dB. Noctua is a very good alternative also delivering also great CFM with low dB. I've seen/heard them in a friends PC and I'm pretty impressed. Doubting even to get Noctuas instead of the tacens...
Anyways these are cooling systems I vouch for and I wouldn't tell anyone to get crap. lol.

And maybe some of you will react saying these are expensive, know that I always try to think budget-wise, but that beeing said, I also know that if you want the best, it's going to have it's price.


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## EvilGenius007

I've added a couple of links since I last bumped this. I'm still looking for suggestions on features folks would like to see added!


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## EvilGenius007

Updated recommended builds. Still trying to decide what price-point the "Mid Range" system should target... somewhere in the $600~$800 range seems appropriate, but where exactly is hard to pin down.


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## EvilGenius007

The NSK1480 is finally drying up from normal retail channels... if anyone knows of a sub-$150 case (pref. $90-120 range) to recommend, please let me know. There's a couple of solid contenders at the $150 range, but it's hard to get anything definitive below that...

EDIT: Also added sound cards to hardware recommendation.


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## EvilGenius007

Suggested builds update. A large number of pricing updates, a few component recommendation changes. Now suggesting the HD4850 or the HD4770, despite the somewhat higher heat, power-consumption & noise the performance increase at the same price point makes it a more attractive buy. Also recommending the 1.5TB LP Barracuda based on price/storage ratio better than the 1TB Caviar Green, but in general the best drive is the largest of the suggested models that fit in your budget (750GB AADS: $70/750GB = 9.3Â¢/GB, 1TB EADS $90/1000GB = 9.0Â¢/GB, 1.5TB Barracuda LP $115/1500GB = 7.7Â¢/GB, 2TB EADS $220/2000GB = 11.0Â¢/GB).

Also updated the "Ultimate" HTPC to suggest the Co-Op GTX295 so that some of your mobo slots remain free for sound & tuner cards.


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## Conspiracy

wow great thread. got me interested in trying to turn an old computer into a rly cheap HTPC


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## Inuzukakiba2

I looked through your budget build and some of the products are deactivated or have lowered in price.


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Inuzukakiba2* 
I looked through your budget build and some of the products are deactivated or have lowered in price.









Hmm... everything was there 9 days ago. I'm sure the motherboard was even for sale 2 days ago. I'll post an update again soon, if you need advice on alternatives in the interim I'm sure people would respond to your requests if you made a new thread.


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## EvilGenius007

In honor of 785G release I decided to update the budget build ahead of schedule. No changes (other than pricing updates) were made to the other builds, however I did have to shift recommended optical drives since LG has decided to discontinue it's brilliant GGC-H20L and offer instead a more expensive model that sacrifices HD-DVD playback for Lightscribe capability.


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## EvilGenius007

Bump.


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## DuckieHo

You might want to mention flashing your Optical drive and forcing it to run at lower speeds for less noise.

Also, you might want to add a section about PCM capabilities.


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## EvilGenius007

While I think those are both valid suggestions for an HTPC guide, I'm not sure they really fall into the scope of "Beginner". I'll look into those topics as I don't know a ton about them myself. Any links you have to help myself & others learn more would be welcome.


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## EvilGenius007

Updated pricing on most items. Considering replacing the "High Budget" components with LGA 1156 / Core i5 suggestions. If anyone has good links where I can get to know more about the motherboards & the features they offer, they would be welcome.

Also need to figure out what to recommend as a Blu-ray/HD drive now that LG has done away with yet another brilliant drive for no apparent reason.


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## EvilGenius007

Updated recommended builds. High end is now Core i5, seems more powerful & efficient than Core 2 Quads of any stripe. Have also changed some PSU suggestions for better performance per dollar.


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## EvilGenius007

Tweaked recommendations. Nothing major, save removing the Seagate LP 1.5TB drive and replacing it with the WD Caviar Green. A significant number of reports have cropped up which indicate that there are high failure rates with the Seagate drive.


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvilGenius007* 
Tweaked recommendations. Nothing major, save removing the Seagate LP 1.5TB drive and replacing it with the WD Caviar Green. A significant number of reports have cropped up which indicate that there are high failure rates with the Seagate drive.

heh, been reading the same complaints about WD. You data is never really safe. If you're really worried about your data go for a mirrored raid.

great guide BTW!


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## nubz

Nice guide.


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## EvilGenius007

Updated recommendations slightly. Not 100% sure that 5970s will fit in that case, but I'm more than happy to accept your donations and give you a definitive answer when I've received sufficient funds to purchase that motherboard, case, and 1 video card.


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## EvilGenius007

Added the following FAQs I've been observing lately:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvilGenius007* 
*Q: What GPU do I need for HTPC use?*
A: Generally if you ask that question you'll get the following recommendations:
ATI Radeon HD 4350 - entry level card, good for offloading with appropriate software, capable of 1080p playback (incl. PIP offloading to the GPU) and 7.1 audio over HDMI with integrated sound
ATI Radeon HD 3450 - roughly the same capability (except no Blu-ray PIP offloading to the GPU) of the 4350 but also able to run in Hybrid CrossfireX with 780G/785G/790GX chipsets & game at about the level of an HD 4550 or slightly better
ATI Radeon HD 4550 - same as the HD 4350, but with more gaming capability & also fully capable of upscaling standard def DVDs (with appropriate software); also true of any higher Radeon HD card, with increasingly better gaming as you go: 4550 < 4650 < 4670 < 4830 < 4770 = 4850 < 5750 < 4870 < 5770 < 4890 < etc.
nVidia GeForce 9xxx - all capable of 1080p playback and with an S/PDIF internal cable to your motherboard, 7.1 audio over HDMI; good for SD upscaling in comercial software like ArcSoft TMT3 Platinum (w/ SimHD) or CyberLink 9
nVidia GeForce 2xx - same as the 9xxx cards but some are without the need for the S/PDIF internal cable in order to do 7.1 audio over HDMI
Anything older than Radeon HD3xxx/GeForce 9xxx - don't spend money for it, you can get something newer that will work as well or better; if you already have one & absolutely need to know, ask--but be sure to clarify how you intend to use it

*Q: Is this system (insert specs) powerful enough for HTPC use?*
A: Depends on several factors, but most variably is what you mean by HTPC use. Your intended use, and the software on which you intend to do that work, can make a big difference in the answer to that question. Most dual cores will be capable of everything up to & including full screen "high def" Hulu playback, especially if coupled with a modern GPU & appropriate software. Older single core chips will likely run into some amount of bottlenecking with HD content, but (esp. with overclocking) chips such as the AMD 939 single-cores & later Pentium 4s will do some subsection of HD playback.

Please let me know if you think my answers missed the mark.


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## BoxKrait

Registered on this forum to weigh in on this particular build:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvilGenius007* 
Last Updated: 2009.12.28
Sample Build: Low Budget, Small Form Factor
$95 MSI 785GM-E65 AMD 785G AM3 Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
<snip>
$90 Antec FusionRemote MicroATX Computer Case and 350W 80 PLUS Certified Power Supply

The case is not exactly a good case:
The power/reset buttons feel like you are going to break something when you push them and do not fully depress after. Also, the larger power button is too small for my finger. (I'm not overweight)

The HDD section of the case was clearly built for two hard drives, the single cage they give you even has rubber spacers on top, but the LCD prevents you from fitting two.

The mobo combination is not the best choice either.
Sure there are six SATA connections, but the hard drive section of the case blocks 4 of them.
The only two that are accessible are the vertical port and the port with the rest of the I/O ports. Meaning the front panel SATA connector is unusable.

The LCD screen stays backlit at all times, even when powered off, and is just plain ugly.
The IR remote that comes with it is neat, but getting the box to read the signal requires precise aiming.

The 350w power supply is a custom one, and if you need to replace it with something that has more beef, you will need to cut the case.

If you plan on having a 5.25" optical drive, the cage for that is a tight fit above the IDE cable connection and the mobo power connection.
Oh, and on first eject of the drive, one of the little support nubs for the front door on the case broke and I had to superglue another little plastic nub on there.

The only positive thing I have to say about the case is I really like all the rubber spacers/feet on the thing, and the fans..

I really don't mean to sound so negative, the reviews on newegg for the case are mostly good, but don't be surprised when you don't like it.

All that being said, thanks a lot for this thread.
I also bought the processor recommended in that build and it plays full 1080p video flawlessly.


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BoxKrait* 
Registered on this forum to weigh in on this particular build:

The case is not exactly a good case

Thank you for taking the time to register and respond. While this case is admittedly not ideal, I have--in fact--worked with it & am aware of it's shortcomings. What I am not aware of is a widely available alternative that's approximately the same price & consistent with the half-height, micro ATX form factor (without sacrificing any of the 4 expansion card slots).

Quote:

The 350w power supply is a custom one, and if you need to replace it with something that has more beef, you will need to cut the case.
This complaint I do want to address individually: if you are doing a build in this case that requires more than 350W of power, you pretty clearly have no idea what you're doing. Or, 0.000001% of you have the skill to create an amazing & unique cooling system consisting of water-cooling and/or phase-change, and will not be daunted by a non-standard PSU. But simply put, there's no reason to want more power in a case this size, and being as the stock PSU is 80 PLUS Certified, there's little hope of finding something more efficient.

Quote:

All that being said, thanks a lot for this thread.
I also bought the processor recommended in that build and it plays full 1080p video flawlessly.
I'm glad you found the rest useful, and your critique of the suggested Antec case may help some people out. If you happen to know of an alternative that comes remotely close in terms of build quality & cost, please let me know.


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## EvilGenius007

Builds updated slightly. The new Caviar Green drives with 64MB caches & 4kb blocks (I think) are recommended so long as you're not using Windows XP, or if you are are willing to run WD's utility to correct the "offset" issue with the older OS. The *ADS drives are still sufficient for current bandwidth requirements, and the *ACS drives should still be largely avoided, but are hopefully even less likely to accidentally end up in new builds.

EDIT: Also have updated the "Additonal Components" section to include 4 each of Optical Drives, Tuners, and Sound Cards. Hopefully the expanded entries cover a better range of the available choices, and will provide guidance across a wider range of budgets.


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## Mucknuggle

EvilGenius007 why do you recommend the AMD Athlon II X4 620 2.6GHz AM3 95W Quad-Core Processor over an Intel Core i3?


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mucknuggle* 
EvilGenius007 why do you recommend the AMD Athlon II X4 620 2.6GHz AM3 95W Quad-Core Processor over an Intel Core i3?

It would depend on your intended use & upgrade path. You're looking at $96 for a quad core CPU vs. $125 for a dual-core. Motherboard costs are within a similar range, but the suggested Gigabyte board for the AMD system has a much better compliment of PCI Express slots, unless one steps up to the $200 Asus motherboard.

I'm not condemning Intel or i3, as alluded to by my inclusion of i5 and i7 systems for the next higher price-points. I'm simply suggesting that at that particular price range your best mix of features comes with a mid-range AMD quad-core over an entry level Intel dual-core.

EDIT: If it were important to "future proof" your system, including Sata 6.0 Gbps, USB 3.0, and both SLI & CrossFireX support, I'd go with the following:

_*Sample Build: Mid Budget, Full ATX Form Factor (Non-Gaming)*_
$200 Asus P7H57D-V EVO LGA 1156 Intel H57 ATX Motherboard
$125 Intel Core i3-530 2.93GHz LGA 1156 73W Dual-Core Processor
$110 G.Skill ECO Series F3-12800CL9D-4GBECO 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3 1600 Memory
$90 Western Digital WD10EARS 1TB 64MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
$140 Silverstone GD01B-R Black Steel/Aluminum ATX Computer Case
$65 OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ500MXSP 500W 80 PLUS Certified Modular Power Supply
$0 Onboard graphics
*Total: $730*

_Apart from being "future proof" with support for SATA 6.0 Gbps, USB 3.0 and both SLI & CrossFireX compatibility, there's also a strong upgrade path through Core i5 & i7 processors. However, you do sacrifice a powerful, DirectX 11 video card, and two processor cores to keep costs competitive, making this a system much less capable of playing modern games._


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## GaminProject

hey guys, im lookin to get into a htpc build n was wondering whats the cheapest cpu n gpu i could get in order to have smooth 1080p playback Thnx


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## nategr8ns

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GaminProject* 
hey guys, im lookin to get into a htpc build n was wondering whats the cheapest cpu n gpu i could get in order to have smooth 1080p playback Thnx

For what motherboard? AGP/PCI/PCI-e graphics? CPU socket?


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## hondajt

Here is my question:
How can I configure my bios so that I can turn on/off the computer with my wireless keyboard? It doesn't specifically have a power button on it, just email and calculator, then the regular 109 keys.

It's a Zotac 6100 Value board if it matters, but I figured this might be generic enough.


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## Bigpurple

Details on: "How can I get video signal from my HTPC to my TV?"

I have a Phillips HDTV with Component inputs (no HDMI, no DVI) I want to build an HTPC to stop paying for cable what I can get over the air for free, and still have PVR capability.

There are many GPU's that have an output listed at HDTV, but I can never find any details on whether that means I can connect from them to HD component analog with a simple adapter cable.

Any advice would be welcome.


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## Bigpurple

OK, I did some digging and now I think that I have a handle on it. If a card lists having HDTV output, it comes through a 7 pin port that looks just like an S-Video port, but it's really capable of 1080i and below, using a 3 cable breakout to Component Video.

Right?

Does this mean that I can send anything through it to my Analog TV without worrying about HDCP? Will HDCP stop me from using this port if the GPU is HDCP compliant?


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bigpurple* 
OK, I did some digging and now I think that I have a handle on it. If a card lists having HDTV output, it comes through a 7 pin port that looks just like an S-Video port, but it's really capable of 1080i and below, using a 3 cable breakout to Component Video.

Right?

Correct!

Quote:

Does this mean that I can send anything through it to my Analog TV without worrying about HDCP? Will HDCP stop me from using this port if the GPU is HDCP compliant?
Yes, and no--yes you won't need to worry about HDCP, no HDCP won't stop you from using that port. You'll be taking advantage of the analog hole.


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## EvilGenius007

Recommendations updated slightly. No longer any good reason to consider drives smaller than 1TB, prices just don't justify it. Holding off on recommending 890GX / 880G series mobos as I don't know a lot about them, and haven't heard of any "must have" features which justify the price increase. As always, though, if there's some particular configuration of PCI-E slots which suits your intended use the following is a rough ranking of AMD motherboard vendors:
Tier 1: Asus, Gigabyte, MSI (high $$$ vs. features/performance)
Tier 2: AsRock, BioStar, DFI, Foxconn (moderate $$ vs. performance)
Tier 3: ECS, JetWay, [some BioStar boards] (minimal $)


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## EvilGenius007

Recommended builds tweaked yet again. Now recommending 8-series AMD mobos due to USB 3.0 & Sata 6Gbps support, plus good availability and pricing. For the most part, prices have come down and computational demands haven't gone up. Will be tweaking the additional components section shortly, for those interested.

Have finished with tweaks to the additional components as well. Falling costs across most of this section, with sound card prices basically unchanged.


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## canrinusace

i will be looking to put an htpc together in the next couple months, and would like to recycle some of my older parts to do this, ill be using my htpc as a bit of a home server as well I have a few options, would like some suggestions as well. prob have about a $500 budget for this $200 of which is taken to get 3 tbs of hd space (2x wd caviar 5400rpm 64mb cache)

I have to options as the base an

asus a8n-sli premium socket 939 with an operton 165 and 4 gigs of ram (4x1gig ddr)
this is the base from my gaming computer a couple years ago, the mobo is packed with features and i think would be a good candidate as 939s are champ and the operton is a server spec cpu anyways.

or

asus m2n-sli, with an athlon x2 3800+, 4gigs ram (2x 2gig ddr2), im currently using it for my gaming purposes, although it a fair bit behind now, i will be upgrading soon. I like it as its from the green series of mobos, again is loaded with features

Things I have:

Full atx multi-media tower with front headphone jacks, as well as 2x usb 2.0 with flip-plate cover.
550w psu (may want to replace with something more energy effiecient)
wireless-n lan pci card
evga 8600gts 256 of ddr3 (dont know if its use able for this but it still is kicking full steam after 3 years of gaming)

so basically this thing is going to be needed to push a 42inch 1080p lcd tv, 7.1 surround sound, and play bluerays

things im pretty sure i need

hdmi output gpu with preferably 1gig of ram
blueray player (burner not needed will be placed on another rig)
some sort of way to input digital cable from shaw in canada to the computer

now that will be its side use as neither me or my roommate watch a ton of tv or movies, but it will get a lot of time as the home server holding all our audio and video files, Im not sure what else ill need or what i should make it handy for as its my first dabble into and htpc, any suggestions where i would be best to set the remaining $300 after hard drives would be very helpful


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## jebright

Does anyone know just how much of a performance increase I might get from RAID 0? In particular, my recorded media is choppy sometimes. I know it is not my incoming signal, and my system should be more than enough for HTPC so all I can figure is RAID 0.


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## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *EvilGenius007* 
*CONTROLLING YOUR HTPC*

There are several options available to the HTPC enthusiast that span a range of prices, technical complexity, and ease of use. (Special thanks to DuckieHo and downlinx for their educational posts on this topic.)

*Dedicated IR "Media Center Remote" (approx. $8 [eBay] - $50)* - A dedicated Media Center remote will allow you to directly control most media playback applications (WMC, Hulu desktop, Boxee, XBMC, etc.) and with advanced configuration and software ( http://www.eventghost.org/ ) can even be used for more advanced functions (instrcutions on VLC setup here, courtesy of downlinx) . Your PC will need an IR receiver, which is included in most remote "kits" and may also be included with your tuner card (if it includes a remote) or if you use a purpose-built HTPC case (such as the Antec Micro Fusion recommended above).
*Programmable Multi-Function Remote (approx. $25 [used] - $250)* - Some remotes, such as the Logitech Harmony series, can combine control of an HTPC with the ability to control your other home theatre components, namely your TV, speakers/receiver, and cable box, etc. While programming the remote to function exactly as desired can be time consuming, this gives you a high degree of control from a single device. You will need an IR receiver (and/or a RF receiver/converter for the higher end models that reside out-of-sight) which is usually not included with such remotes.
*Gamepads with software mapped commands ($10 - $60)* - For those who want their HTPC experience to mimic that of an Xbox or PlayStation, you can! Pick your favorite gamepad and head over to http://www.xpadder.com/ for software & support.
*Mini Wireless Keyboard/Mice/Remote Devices ($35 - $150)* - Available in entry level generic form as well as in "high end" form from name brands like Logitech, and at several points in between, these devices combine a small palm-sized keyboard with a built in pointing device and are intended to give you full control of your HTPC. They often have built-in shortcut keys for the common media tasks (Play/Pause, Stop, FF/SkipFwd, RW/SkipBack, etc.).
*Standard Wireless Keyboards/Mice ($20 - $150+)* - Perfect for those who value the full PC experience over concealing the fact that your media set-up is being run by a PC. It's like having a standard keyboard and mouse controlling a PC because... well, that is in fact what you're doing.







Of course, you can also run USB extension cords or use your front ports for direct-connected set-ups as well.

New section finally added, less than 2 months after I promised to do so. Feedback, as always, is welcome. I intend to add some links to specific products in the near future, but have spent enough of my workday on this for today.


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## jwalk_pv2001

EvilGenius007,

I have purchased all the parts from your "Sample Build: High Budget, Full ATX Form Factor" except for the motherboard which i see you have recently changed. Quite a few people on newegg.com have suggested that the stock cooler on the Intel i5 processor is inadequate and should be replaced with an aftermarket cooler/fan. I just wanted to know what you would recommend that i do? (This will be my first HTPC build or really my first pc build of any kind









Also i noticed that a lot of consumers seem to like the Cooler Master 212 + heatsink/fan, and was wondering if you do indeed recommend that i get a different cooler should i get the Cooler Master 212 + or do you recommend a different one?

My case is the Silverstone Black LC20B-M ATX Media Center / HTPC Case.

Thank you in advance,

J-Walk


----------



## EvilGenius007

I recently picked up a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ myself as a bargain CPU cooler to replace a stock AM2. Haven't gotten around to installing it yet, but I can say it appears well made and plenty adequate to cool a stock i5. Of course, the stock cooler should also be adequate at stock speeds...

I'd try things out with the stock cooler and if you're not satisfied with your obeserved temps (determined via SpeedFan or other monitoring software), then take a measurement and determine exactly how much clearance you have for an aftermarket cooler.


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## GYBE

Can I get sound from my receiver/ home theater system by connecting an HDMI cable to my GPU w/ SPDIF cable through a DVI to HDMI adapter and connecting another HDMI cable to my TV?


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## jwalk_pv2001

EvilGenius007,

Thank you for the quick response!! Just one more quick question, if you had to choose between the new MSI P55A Fuzion LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard or the ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard which one would you pick???

Thank you in advance,

J-Walk


----------



## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jwalk_pv2001* 
EvilGenius007,

Thank you for the quick response!! Just one more quick question, if you had to choose between the new MSI P55A Fuzion LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard or the ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard which one would you pick???

Thank you in advance,

J-Walk

I don't think either of those could be bad. I think Fuzion is a "neat" technology, and very unique. If I recall correctly, you should actually be able to get the SATA 6GB/s & USB 3.0 on the MSI board as well... Of course, Asus has a pretty stellar reputation. Sorry, can't pick a winner for you. Go with whatever you like more.


----------



## EvilGenius007

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PoopLord* 
Can I get sound from my receiver/ home theater system by connecting an HDMI cable to my GPU w/ SPDIF cable through a DVI to HDMI adapter and connecting another HDMI cable to my TV?

Get a SPDIF digital adapter like... this
 Amazon.com: SPDIF RCA Out Plate Cable Bracket: Electronics
one and use that to connect the audio to your receiver.


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## remnant

Have satellite Tv box with HDMI out. do i use that to connect it to my HTPC for recording a schedualed program?

If I want to watch one show with recording another. Or record two shows at once. how do I do this?


----------

