# [Official] Fractal Design Case Club



## DefineSkillz

FYI thats a Fractal R2, and yeh there should be enough people with them nowadays to make a club lol.

i personally have the R2 (same case) with my sig rig specs,

i5-750
MSI GD-80
4GB Gskill DDR3
2xGTX470
Corsair AX1200
Corsair H50
2x300gb WD Velociraptors.

Ill have to take photos when i can find the damned charger for my camera battery.


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## nagle3092

Does anyone know where I can get an XL Black Pearl in the US (or Canada), or any place that carries it that will ship to the US?


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## GoTMaXPoWeR

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nagle3092* 
Does anyone know where I can get an XL Black Pearl in the US (or Canada), or any place that carries it that will ship to the US?

The only US FD retailer is NCIX.

...and unfortunately, both of the places I can find in the UK that actually sell the case you want are out of stock. Ebay is empty too.


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## nagle3092

Well thanks anyways, I like how cheap the R3 is but shipping is killer $70 from NCIX. I cant decided between the XL or to just get a Lian Li.


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## Pieiam

I have the R3







Its got the reset button.


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## resolve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nagle3092* 
Well thanks anyways, I like how cheap the R3 is but shipping is killer $70 from NCIX. I cant decided between the XL or to just get a Lian Li.

try it from the "real" NCIX site instead of the US version. On the US version the cheapest shipping I can get is $55, but the Canadian site, which still lets me deliver it to the US, has a $35 shipping option that's not on the US site


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## boredgunner

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nagle3092* 
Well thanks anyways, I like how cheap the R3 is but shipping is killer $70 from NCIX. I cant decided between the XL or to just get a Lian Li.

Lian-Li of course.


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## nzgroller

looks like nice cable management opportunities


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## picool

yeah, the cable manegement just like corsair.


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## Government

still need hardware obviosuly, but this is stage one.


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## Government

I think i'm going to copy you and take the 120m exhaust fan, stick it in the front for intake, and buy a Noctua for exhaust instead.
That what this forum is good for!


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## nagle3092

Looking good so far, I recently just emailed NCIX to see if they are going to carry the Arctic White R3 but I'm still waiting on a response.


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## Laine

Fractal Design Array R1.


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## opensesame

I wish Fractal Design had another retailer in the US for the R3 Arctic. It simply looks better to me than anything Antec has. Too bad I swore never to do business with NCIX everagain after I got ripped off a while back.


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## E30M3

Define R3
I7930
Asus P6X58D-E
6gb Corsair XMS3 1600
Corsair TX750
EVGA GTX460 fermi 1gb










Killer case, nice and quiet looks unreal, and cheap.


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## Government

Stage 2. I probably won't post the last stage because it's jsut Ram and GPU, but here it is.


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## Government

that diagonal wire is going to keep me up all night!.
Need to buy a longer one i guess.


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## E30M3

Stuck a H50 in the back as an exhaust with a Noctua P12 and got some great temp drops, and way more silent. The stock i7 fan was a jet engine at 2k rpm.


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## Nubzor

This is mine, dark room <.<


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## Government

I said I wouldn't post stage 3... but here it is. Probably a few things I could do to make it better, but it's not like there's a window to show it off anyway.


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## Government

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nagle3092* 
Looking good so far, I recently just emailed NCIX to see if they are going to carry the Arctic White R3 but I'm still waiting on a response.

At least NCIX is kinda-ish close to alaska. Could be worse.


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## rxkevin

Can anyone with this case measure the front area where the two fans sit? I wanted to see if I can fit a 240 radiator into that spot. I will be removing the HDD trays and putting my watercooling parts in that spot.

Appreciate it.


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## Make my day

I have the R2. It's kind of messy because of my fan controller cables everywhere.


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## SupahSpankeh

Well, in the absence of a dedicated Fractal case club (which someone should definitely start btw) there's always the unofficial Refined Rigs thread I started a while ago. The trolls have mostly forgotten it, and I can't imagine there'd be a FD case which wouldn't be a welcome member.

http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...gs-thread.html


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## stimr2

I just got my R3 couple weeks ago. Here are some pics.


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## pelplouffe

Hi, I'm new on this forum I hope i will like it! I just wqanted to post couple of pic of my Fractal Design RIG. The Spec are un my description.


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## stimr2

Welcome to OCN and good to see more Fractal Design owners.


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## pelplouffe

thanks im on ocn for only 2-3 day and i alreayd love it


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## pelplouffe

I Had the Same Heatsink then stimr2 before i move to watercooling!


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## EmZkY

Thought I'd share my Fractal build with you. Can't see much of it around here, as I guess it's not that common in USA.

Case: Fractal Design R3 Black Pearl
The rest is on my sig. Btw: My OS SSD is stored on top of the CDrom, and my storage HDD is in the second 5,25 inch bay. Why not?


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## stimr2

It would be more popular if there was a US retailer. I really like the rig you got there.


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## WIGILOCO

This R3 is really tempting. I have built three rigs onto that case at my workplace this week and really love it. Cable management is top class. Maybe I trade my Antec 300 to this


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## ehpexs

I'm just about the pull the trigger on an R3 + 620 watt Seasonic combo deal. Which color is better the silver or titanium front?


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## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

If only I had a Fractal Design.
They take feedback from users which is a big plus for such a company.
And their cases follow my golden rule, sleek and anti-flashy.


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## stimr2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ehpexs* 
I'm just about the pull the trigger on an R3 + 620 watt Seasonic combo deal. Which color is better the silver or titanium front?

I like the titanium better than silver. The titanium is a bit darker and I like that.


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## SupahSpankeh

Nice looking units.

How is the front intake air? On the old P181/2 there were some issues with poor intake unles you modded the grills and opened the front door. Only sorted that out on the P183, which is a real pity.

Thoughts?


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## stimr2

The front panel door pretty much restricts air flow to the fans. There is very little space between the door and front bezel. I don't see a lot dust on the doors for the front fans. However, when I do open to doors the fans filters are covered in dust. The fans seem to pull air from the side and bottom vents on the front bezel. There is about a 1/2 inch space between the fan filter and the doors. You can actually see the fans and filters through the side vents.


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## EmZkY

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SupahSpankeh* 
Nice looking units.

How is the front intake air? On the old P181/2 there were some issues with poor intake unles you modded the grills and opened the front door. Only sorted that out on the P183, which is a real pity.

Thoughts?

I didnt get to test it yet. I'm still waiting for a RMA replacement of my XFX HD5870 XT, which didnt function as it should. I had to downclock it from the "small frabric overclock" to normal 5870 speeds, and I guess future overclocking wouldn't be really optimal either







The HD-587A-ZNE9 chip is probably a bad one, as I can't find it in any webshops.
I'll do some testing once I have the GFX card though! I'm expecting worse temperatures compared to the HAF932 I had before. But on the plus-side: With the R3, you can install dual top fans, side fan and a bottom fan for better airflow, and all intakes are filtered.


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## WIGILOCO

Yes! I will buy this R3 beauty tomorrow from my workplace!







At 59€ (normally 99€, I get everything on the purchase price). I though adding a one or two 140mm slip stream 500 or 800rpm on the top because my CPU cooler is mounted on sideways.


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## ehpexs

I finally got around to ordering my Fractal R3! it came with a Seasonic 620 W PSU as a combo deal. I should arrive here in a few days, pics will follow. You can look in my sig to see what else I'm putting in my Sandy Bridge Build.


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## WIGILOCO

Yeeah! Fractal is on my floor right now! Tomorrow I will start the change from Antec 300 to R3







Yet now I don't have any air cleaner thing to blow the dust away..


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## ehpexs

Here are some pics of the ROUGH build. The completed rig is still a month out.


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## SupahSpankeh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *stimr2* 
The front panel door pretty much restricts air flow to the fans. There is very little space between the door and front bezel. I don't see a lot dust on the doors for the front fans. However, when I do open to doors the fans filters are covered in dust. The fans seem to pull air from the side and bottom vents on the front bezel. There is about a 1/2 inch space between the fan filter and the doors. You can actually see the fans and filters through the side vents.


Ye gods that looks like a bad design; the filter isn't flush with the front mesh? Can air enter the case without passing through a filter? It looks like it can.

Seriously considering one (they're cheap in the UK relative to the 600T etc.) but not sure about that front mesh. Surprised nobody's modded it to remove it...


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## stimr2

The design isn't the most optimal for air flow but it really isn't that bad. The filters are part of the assembly that attaches the fans to the chassis. So the filters sit flush with the fan. There's a decent amount of space in front of the fan/filter to draw air from the side vents on the bezel. So the side vents on the right and left of the bezel are the air intakes for the front fans. The fan doors are pretty much there so you can easily get access to the fan/filter for cleaning or removing/installing.

Unlike the Antec Performance One cases, the side vents on the Fractals are located behind the fan doors but in front of the fan/filter. While on the Antecs the side vents sit in front of the fan doors. Basically on the Fractals the fan can pull air directly through the side vents. While on the Antecs the air is pulled from the side vents through the grill on the fan doors.

I'm a big fan of the Antec Performance One cases. I was planning on getting a P183 before I got my R3. Antec really needs to update the Perfomance One cases. It really sucked paying for the shipping to get it to the States from Canada.

Fractal: Fan--->Filter--->Side Vent--->Fan Door--->Bezel Door









Antec: Fan--->Filter--->Fan Door--->Side Vent--->Bezel Door (BANDIT_COROLLA's picture from the "Official" Antec Performance One Owners Thread )









The fan snaps in to the assembly and you have the option of using 2 fans screws.


















The fan actually sits flush with the filter.









Here's a pic with the front bezel detached from the chassis.









There's actually a good amount of room for the fans to draw air from the side vents.









The stock fans that come with the R3 are only 1300rpm. If you want more air flow you could always get better fans. I currently have the 2 stock fans in the front. I also have 2 Scythe S-Flex Gs on the top and 1 in the rear as exhausts. I got some Zalman ZM-F3s in my closest but I haven't bought a 3 pin power cable splitter to use them with my Lamptron fan controller. They would definitely pull more air in than the stock fans.


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## Lele81

Hey guys!
It seems that here are some experts about Fractal Design!
I have a little question and I hope someone could help me out:

About the FD Fan....does them make some annoying or ticking noise when placed horizontally? (on top for Exaust for example).
If you don't know it, could you try with the one you have for me?
In particular I was referring to the 140mm version, but maybe the 120mm would have the same behaviour...

Thank you and good ggod case!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## ghost2501

LOL I thought this thread was people that wanted to get together and make "FRACTALS" like chaos theory and geometry etc. Oh well.


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## pelplouffe

I have a 120mm on the top and dosent make anynoise. I love these fan so quiet


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## Lele81

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pelplouffe* 
I have a 120mm on the top and dosent make anynoise. I love these fan so quiet

Not even any soft tick tick noise either? That seems good! If someone have a 140mm for confirming, that will be nice too









EDIT:
mmmm, something doesn't seems what you told, maybe your percepition of noise is different?
That's what I read from Silentpcreview HERE:
*Both the 120 and 140 mm fans are very quiet on their own, close to our anechoic chamber's noise floor. However, they both exhibit a noticeable ticking quality. It is particularly bad on the 120 mm model*


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## Pieiam

Alright guys im going to try turning this thread into a club thingo









Any objections?

Suggestions?


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## NguyenAdam

Where would I be able to buy this if I were from the US? Looking for the R2.


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## stimr2

There aren't any US retailers who carry Fractal cases. NCIX is the only North American retailer and if you buy it from them the shipping will cost you. Also I don't think NCIX carrys the R2 any more, the R3 is it's replacement. When I ordered my R3 it took over 2 weeks to get it from NCIX.


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## Pieiam

No idea about US.







But if you ever come to aus i could help you out. stimr2, do you want to join this club?


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## stimr2

Sign me up for the club.


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## Pieiam

Yay 2 official members ;D


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## E30M3

me too..


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## Pieiam

Added! Where do you guys put your case badges if at all?


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## yang88she

wow that case is pure sex!


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## Pieiam

WE get that A LOT


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## WIGILOCO

Am I in the club already? Sign in!


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## SupahSpankeh

Can it fit 10.5 inch graphics cards btw?

EDIT: And how many of those fan blocker things are included as default? the things which block 120mm fan holes?


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## pelplouffe

Sign me in! And i don't know about 10.5 but my GTX 470 pretty big and fit without any problem.


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## Pieiam

It fits my gtx 460 pretty easily, Added guys


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## WIGILOCO

R3 is so good... mmmmmmmm


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## stimr2

It comes with 3 of them and Fractal says it can accommodate 290mm(11.4 inches) long graphic cards.


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## Pieiam

Hey guys you can find the link thingo to put in your signature in the first page at the bottom.


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## Ubernoobie

i just helped my friend build a rig with the r3 and man is it quiet compared to my antec 300. It stomps a antec p180 easily too


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## stimr2

I just realized that the R3's fan controller came with a 3pin 3-way splitter. Now I don't have to buy a 3 pin splitter. I replaced the 2 stock fans with 2 Zalman ZM-F3s. Now I got 5 120mm Scythe S-Flex Gs 1900rpm and 2 Zalman ZM-F3s 1800rpm in the case all connected to my Lamptron FC Touch. I have them all at 6Vs and it's still relatively quiet.


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## Pieiam

@Ubernoobie, I think its time you get a replacement case!









@stimr2, yeah the case has lots of little ideas which make it so easy to work with! I love the removable psu filter.


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## bort123

Hi together,

I have a question to all design array (preferably r2) owners.
Background: I have been wondering whether to buy a new laptop for some time. Eventually, I decided to go for a small, powerful HTPC if I can find something I like.

Idea: design array r2, sandy bridge 2500K @ 4,5-5ghz, gtx 5700. both watercooled.

Radiator: CLICK, mounted (on a custom bracket) in front, on top of this fan: CLICK, blowing air inside.

My issue: I know it would fit width-wise. The radiator is 245mm and the case is 250mm (I asked fractal tech support). its awfully close, but should fit.

My problem is: the radiator is exactly 200mm in height (well, if you put it on the side...). According to fractal, the case height is exactly 200mm, excluding feet. I assume this means "200mm MINUS the actual strength of the aluminium".

Anyways, its, well, extremely close.

Could any of the design array r2 owners here maybe take a measuring tape and tell me exactly how much space is available WITHIN the case, from bottom to top?

It would be just to freaking awesome to fit that radiator in such a small case... for those interested, HERE a review of said radiator (in German - sorry).

Thanks a bunch guys,

/Bort


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## Pieiam

http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/838683-fractal-design-case-club-2.html#post10978730

If you look down this page it shows laines R1


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## exlink

I was thinking of picking up one a Fractal Design Define R3 since I'm looking to go SLI/CF for my next build and have a dedicated sound card which really can't happen in my current mATX case (even though the P180 Mini is my favorite case ever so far).

Anyway, I was wondering if any of you guys have had trouble with the length of any of the new generation cars (GTX 5xx or HD 69xx)? It seems like the newer end cards are just becoming longer in length so I need to have a case that can accommodate these cards without extra modifications needed.


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## pelplouffe

I got a GTX 470 on mine and between the GTX and the Rack for Hard Drive i got a 240mm Rad and a Fran and still have about 3/8 1/2 inch free to give you an idea


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## exlink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pelplouffe;11852947*
> I got a GTX 470 on mine and between the GTX and the Rack for Hard Drive i got a 240mm Rad and a Fran and still have about 3/8 1/2 inch free to give you an idea


Thank you. The GTX 470 is a "shorter" card compared to many of the other newer cards. I believe that it sits around 9.5" while most of the newer cards (especially the HD 69xx series) are around 11". The placement of the power connectors is also important because they can increase the required length clearance inside a case.

The only way I was able to fit my HD 5870 (10.25") into my P180 Mini was by removing one of the HDD cages but now I probably have enough room for a 13" card.

So I was just wondering if anyone has this case with one of the relatively larger cards (5970, 6970, etc) that can post their results.

I do appreciate your contribution though!


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## Pieiam

Yes it will fit. All these people wondering whether certain HSF or GPU fit.. They are designed to fit in almost any case. Whats the use of a GPU or HSF only a few people can use


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## Gunmann

Hi people!
I'm new here and I've a question:
How can I change the led color in my fractal?
I've the black pearl color and I've the blue one ... I want to change the color for red, as possible...
Best regards


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## Pieiam

Hey, I'll explain it:

First disconnect the wires from the power button and the led from your motherboard.
After that remove the front panel.

You'll find 2 screws that hold the switch and led in. Remove those screws and you can remove the switch. After that you'll have to remove the led, use a little knife or something pointy to remove it if it doesnt want to move.
After that just cut the cable from the led, and solder a white led with the right dimensions to the wire.
I used some transparant glue to hold the led in.
After that put the switch back in and the screws and you'll have a red led


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## NguyenAdam

Arghhhh why is shipping so expensive?! I really want this case, but the $50 shipping is killing it for me!


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## crashovride02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;11881707*
> Arghhhh why is shipping so expensive?! I really want this case, but the $50 shipping is killing it for me!


I'm with you on this! It's over $60 to me and that's insane!


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## NguyenAdam

The case is only $110 and we have to pay almost OR over half of the price just for shipping. -_-


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## nagle3092

Hey for all you guys thinking of purchasing a Fractal Design case in the US just wait a couple months at most. I have been emailing FD about this issue and a couple others, here is one of their responses.

We really appreciate your mail. I have good news for you. We are just starting our US office in Dallas/Texas.
Paul Heimbuch is our President for Fractal Design North America Inc.
We are with the highest priority busy to get Fractal Design into the major resellers like NewEgg and Tiger Direct.
As you can imagine it takes more then a couple of days to be listed into the biggest Etailers in the world but we are working hard on it.
I think the DEFINE Mini is a very good choice. You will like the case. Thanks a lot for your interest in our brand.

Paul will contact you and will keep you updated. Our goal is to be in the next quarter available in the US.

I will come back to you a.s.a.p. with the answer on the technical questions about the DEFINE Mini.

Best Regards,

Jens Harnisch Sales Manager


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## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;11886085*
> Hey for all you guys thinking of purchasing a Fractal Design case in the US just wait a couple months at most. I have been emailing FD about this issue and a couple others, here is one of their responses.
> 
> We really appreciate your mail. I have good news for you. We are just starting our US office in Dallas/Texas.
> Paul Heimbuch is our President for Fractal Design North America Inc.
> We are with the highest priority busy to get Fractal Design into the major resellers like NewEgg and Tiger Direct.
> As you can imagine it takes more then a couple of days to be listed into the biggest Etailers in the world but we are working hard on it.
> I think the DEFINE Mini is a very good choice. You will like the case. Thanks a lot for your interest in our brand.
> 
> Paul will contact you and will keep you updated. Our goal is to be in the next quarter available in the US.
> 
> I will come back to you a.s.a.p. with the answer on the technical questions about the DEFINE Mini.
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Jens Harnisch Sales Manager


If that is true... then YES! I will no longer have to pay crazy shipping prices! Dallas is much closer to me than Canada.


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## Gunmann

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pieiam;11867327 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting**************11867327******end_of_the_skype_highlighting*
> Hey, I'll explain it:
> 
> First disconnect the wires from the power button and the led from your motherboard.
> After that remove the front panel.
> 
> You'll find 2 screws that hold the switch and led in. Remove those screws and you can remove the switch. After that you'll have to remove the led, use a little knife or something pointy to remove it if it doesnt want to move.
> After that just cut the cable from the led, and solder a white led with the right dimensions to the wire.
> I used some transparant glue to hold the led in.
> After that put the switch back in and the screws and you'll have a red led


Hey! What type of led is this?
Best Regards


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## Pieiam

standrad 2.5mmled?


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## WIGILOCO

Yes I hope you guys will get lot of Fractals to US because this case is the lord. In Finland, number 1 seller. R2 was, now R3. I work in local computer store and we build many rigs daily on these cases.


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## stimr2

I wish they hand launched in the USA instead of Canada. Would of saved me shipping. They probably wanted to test out the waters in a smaller market.

I'm really looking forward to the arc. I plan using that case for a bullbozer build. My current rig will replace my media pc.


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## Pieiam

Its pretty popular in australia as well. Most stores have them.

We get it for a cool $140


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## Armastitium

Holy crap, just got interested in the XL version of the case but $53 shipping. Would it be worth it over Lian Li cases?


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## Not A Good Idea

i just got an XL. im unpacking it later today







so i guess you can add me! i only hate the fact that i paid 60 to have it shipped from canada... eh.


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## Gunmann

Here is my new toy!








I'm doing a project with red/black colors !


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## NguyenAdam

I envy you people who don't have to pay ridiculous shipping prices.


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## pelplouffe

I got mine for 129$ at NCIX with local pick up in combo with a seasonic 600w that i i sold for 70$(regular 110$ i think) i paid like 70-80$ for mine


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## NguyenAdam

One benefit about living in Canada. Lol


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## Pieiam

Not worth the sacrifice


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## esproductions

yeah Canada sucks for just about everything else.


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## NguyenAdam

Any news on the US release? :]

Edit: Do they have a Fractal rep on this site?


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## wupah

Question for the R3 Gurus out there :

Would a Noctua NH-D14 fit in the case ?

What 120mm fans would you recommend to add to the case ?
*I was thinking some Noctua 120mms, because I love the color scheme...

at 110$ + 5.99$ shipping I can afford 2-3 extra fans


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## stimr2

Hope this helps.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC0bvirdfpY[/ame[/URL]]





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2ypjrIHbA4[/ame[/URL]]


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## iamloco724

im in the market for a new case and had a question about the current fractal design cases is it at all possible to take off the front door permanently?


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## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamloco724;12051410*
> im in the market for a new case and had a question about the current fractal design cases is it at all possible to take off the front door permanently?


You probably could, but its not exactly designed for it. You're probably best off waiting for the Arc or the new Core series if you want a Fractal case without a door.

On another note, just received my Fractal Design XL, cools great, really quiet and looks the part - certainly worth the £100 I spent.


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## Genzel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;11886085*
> Hey for all you guys thinking of purchasing a Fractal Design case in the US just wait a couple months at most. I have been emailing FD about this issue and a couple others, here is one of their responses.
> 
> We really appreciate your mail. I have good news for you. We are just starting our US office in Dallas/Texas.
> Paul Heimbuch is our President for Fractal Design North America Inc.
> We are with the highest priority busy to get Fractal Design into the major resellers like NewEgg and Tiger Direct.
> As you can imagine it takes more then a couple of days to be listed into the biggest Etailers in the world but we are working hard on it.
> I think the DEFINE Mini is a very good choice. You will like the case. Thanks a lot for your interest in our brand.
> 
> Paul will contact you and will keep you updated. Our goal is to be in the next quarter available in the US.
> 
> I will come back to you a.s.a.p. with the answer on the technical questions about the DEFINE Mini.
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Jens Harnisch Sales Manager


It's cool that they bothered to give a personalized response. I'm not in the market for a new case, but those look really clean.


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## nVus

Awesome idea guys n galls. This is my first post on these forums and I found you from my Youtube analytics's







I own the Fractal Design DEFINE R3 Arctic White Case you might have seen on Youtube if you searched for reviews for it.

If you get a good following with a mind of helping others with modding FD's box's then I can give you some webspace to make a more official site.

Together we may even have some small influence on forthcoming products from FD in Sweden, ye never know.

*
Looking EVIL in its corner*









*
The Empire Needs You*


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## NguyenAdam

This club is about to get a whole lot bigger once Newegg starts selling them.


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## adamjamesroe

General question about Fractal cases, can the door be swaped to the other side?


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## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamjamesroe;12069412*
> General question about Fractal cases, can the door be swaped to the other side?


Pretty sure its a no with the XL at least. Not sure on the R3.


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## samgreeen

Well thanks anyways, I like how cheap the R3 is but shipping is killer $70 from NCIX.


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## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samgreeen;12071324*
> Well thanks anyways, I like how cheap the R3 is but shipping is killer $70 from NCIX.


That is why we are all happy that it is going to be sold on newegg in the near future.


----------



## Pieiam

Never been a fan of cathodes. Especially in the fractal. Its meant to be a clean sleek case


----------



## nVus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pieiam;12098494*
> Never been a fan of cathodes. Especially in the fractal. Its meant to be a clean sleek case


I'd disagree with any _*"..meant to be...*_" opinions on a Fractal Design R2/3, I felt they've tried to meet a very broad user needs. From the very silent and standard office environment to the bleeding edge end of computer enthusiast, why else include so many cooling options?

But I do agree with you that its never necessary to add lights and windows and even over-clock a computer, but that's why there is forums such as this very forum, so we can all share our own unique perspectives and experiences with our fellow enthusiasts.

....now back on-topic, My only gripe as it is with Fractal Design is not including more fan filters for the other 3 fan options and no way to purchase more from them







. But I managed to find DEMCiflex filters online and they where very helpful in getting me 3 more 140mm white filters for my Fractal Design R3 Arctic White STORM - TROOPER.


----------



## eGGe

Hi guys!

I'm wondering about this cases airflow/coolness. Are the 2 included fans enough to keep the whole system cool, or should I invest in additional fans? I'm also pretty concerned about the noise (I don't want it to be too loud). So perhaps 1 to the front, and 1 on the top? Does it become too loud if I install 1 fan on the top? And can u guys recommend some good silence/performance-ratio fans, that perhaps u r using?

What have u made to improve ur cases performance/silence?


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eGGe;12099417*
> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm wondering about this cases airflow/coolness. Are the 2 included fans enough to keep the whole system cool, or should I invest in additional fans? I'm also pretty concerned about the noise (I don't want it to be too loud). So perhaps 1 to the front, and 1 on the top? Does it become too loud if I install 1 fan on the top? And can u guys recommend some good silence/performance-ratio fans, that perhaps u r using?
> 
> What have u made to improve ur cases performance/silence?


Is this on the R3 or the XL?

I'd really recommend buying some more fans - you can still have a good amount of airflow but with quiet fans that way. In my XL I'm running all of the fans apart from the side panel one - all really quiet fans but it still keeps things pretty cool.


----------



## eGGe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing;12099428*
> Is this on the R3 or the XL?
> 
> I'd really recommend buying some more fans - you can still have a good amount of airflow but with quiet fans that way. In my XL I'm running all of the fans apart from the side panel one - all really quiet fans but it still keeps things pretty cool.


Oh, hah, sorry, forgot to mention the whole case







I'm talking about the R3, sorry







What fans r u using that r quiet?


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eGGe;12099452*
> Oh, hah, sorry, forgot to mention the whole case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about the R3, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What fans r u using that r quiet?


Just using Fractal Design ones. I had a few with the case but I bought a 140mm to go in the back of the case. Got an NZXT one sitting in the 120mm slot in the drive bays though, but it matches the Fractal ones, same colour and just as quiet.

I'd really recommend just buying more of what the case comes with, they move enough air and are really quiet.


----------



## wupah

I seem to be having an issue with my new fractal r3 case. I have a Silent Typhoon 120mm fan installed inside, at the bottom of the case taking in air from underneath the case, and for some reasons when I tighten the fan screws, the fan rubs against the filter mesh. Not a lot by any means, but just enough to make it annoying.

I'm going to try using some very thin rubber grommets, it probably needs like 0.010 in or something like that.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wupah;12100618*
> I seem to be having an issue with my new fractal r3 case. I have a Silent Typhoon 120mm fan installed inside, at the bottom of the case taking in air from underneath the case, and for some reasons when I tighten the fan screws, the fan rubs against the filter mesh. Not a lot by any means, but just enough to make it annoying.
> 
> I'm going to try using some very thin rubber grommets, it probably needs like 0.010 in or something like that.


Sometimes happens, just throw some grommets/washers on each corner and it should be fine.


----------



## ehpexs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;12066492*
> This club is about to get a whole lot bigger once Newegg starts selling them.


The same will be said for prices of Fractal Design cases once they become popular.


----------



## AusPC

I Might be getting a Fractal Mini Array !!


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs;12101948*
> The same will be said for prices of Fractal Design cases once they become popular.


They are already popular, but just not in the US. So with that out of the way, I don't think that the prices are going to go up.


----------



## Pieiam

They are pretty popular is Australia. Some of the big stores sell them. We pay around 140 for a R3


----------



## murderbymodem

I was going to order a Lian-Li PC-A70F from Newegg until I came across the Fractal R3 for a mere $108 - around $70 cheaper. I had it in my cart at NCIX, and then I saw that it was going to cost $50 just for shipping, as opposed to Newegg's $20 shipping on the A70F.









I'm tempted to wait for the R3 to come to Newegg, so hopefully it won't be long like they say. I don't want to be waiting around forever, I've been wanting a new case for quite a while


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;12180013*
> I was going to order a Lian-Li PC-A70F from Newegg until I came across the Fractal R3 for a mere $108 - around $70 cheaper. I had it in my cart at NCIX, and then I saw that it was going to cost $50 just for shipping, as opposed to Newegg's $20 shipping on the A70F.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tempted to wait for the R3 to come to Newegg, so hopefully it won't be long like they say. I don't want to be waiting around forever, I've been wanting a new case for quite a while


I was also about the buy the R3, but I saw the shipping prices. It kills it. :[


----------



## 36o

hi,

got my r3 yesterday just stripped it down n now now choosen colour goin to be a satinish black with light coat of clear with blue flakes bored lol, thinkin of goin new sandy bridge or i7 as its goin to be a lan pc/server box goin to be full of drives but also need it to play my games







heres few pics so far just stripped.


----------



## 36o

dead topic







ill upload few pics later


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *36o*


ill upload few pics later


Looking forward to it.


----------



## Wandatin

How are temps for air cooling in the R3? I'm trying to decide between the R3 and the Silverstone FT02.


----------



## pelplouffe

Atfer a few extra fan is pretty good considering the kind of case


----------



## 36o

lil bit more sanding and shall post them









got all the hardware for it now.
intel i7 920
gigabyte 460s in sli waitin for 2nd one to come in stock
asus sabertooth x58 board
6gb 1600mhz corsair ram
60gb ssd
4x2tbs
2x1.5tbs
dvd drive will upgrade to bluray writer
gave a 140mm noctua cooler a light coat of black for looks


----------



## 36o

sorry havn't got alot done been watching tv about cyclone hitting other side of australia.









heres what i done so far.
running normal push button switches behind door for stealth look.


----------



## Vranaxxas

hi everyone lookin to become a fd owner it seems ;p

just have a few questions about define r3 case

is it possible to add 140mm fans to front cover instead of 120?

also does the artic white model have improvements over the other colour scheme cases i seen it with added textile layer insulation on fd website pics and is the paintwork of higher quality heard that also?

thanks for ya time


----------



## 36o

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vranaxxas*


hi everyone lookin to become a fd owner it seems ;p

just have a few questions about define r3 case

is it possible to add 140mm fans to front cover instead of 120?

also does the artic white model have improvements over the other colour scheme cases i seen it with added textile layer insulation on fd website pics and is the paintwork of higher quality heard that also?

thanks for ya time










u cant put 140mm fans in there just for 120s but im sure with a lil mod its possible havnt thourght about that. but 120s are great lil bit louder then 140s but simular performance


----------



## Vranaxxas

ye guess ill stick to 120's cos the door vents are in same shape as 120 too so even modded it wouldnt be so good.

not sure when i going to build new pc (maybe march) want to get new alloys for my new car first hehe but i'll be sure to take pics ;p

only other thing is cpu coolers for 1155? websites are claiming 1156 coolers will fit 1155 but seems not the case from what ive read from the first 1155 owners.


----------



## puffsNasco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;12180013*
> I was going to order a Lian-Li PC-A70F from Newegg until I came across the Fractal R3 for a mere $108 - around $70 cheaper. I had it in my cart at NCIX, and then I saw that it was going to cost $50 just for shipping, as opposed to Newegg's $20 shipping on the A70F.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tempted to wait for the R3 to come to Newegg, so hopefully it won't be long like they say. I don't want to be waiting around forever, I've been wanting a new case for quite a while


r3 is alot cheaper than 108 lol... i seen it go down pretty low bundled with PSUs


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puffsNasco;12262309*
> r3 is alot cheaper than 108 lol... i seen it go down pretty low bundled with PSUs


We don't have the luxury of being able to purchase it within the US.. BUT we will!


----------



## Pieiam

One of the few products AUS has and US doesn't


----------



## Siegfried262

Hey guys, I'm really looking forward to Fractal Design coming to Newegg at the end of the month and I'm going to get an R3 when the time comes but I had a few questions.

The site says it can support a 120mm/140mm on the bottom if the PSU doesn't exceed 160mm but one of the earlier posts on this thread was a user with a corsair psu that measures 180mm (same as mine) and it looked like there might still be room to just barely squeeze in a 120mm fan, can anyone comment?

Also, how is the cooling when more of the fan slots are populated? I'm thinking of populating the fan slots (Both fronts, bottom if possible, side, rear, and the rearmost top) with Enermax's T.B Silence line (120mm/140mm) which I've read great things about.

Also, have any of you experienced better temperatures using two top exhausts rather than just one?

Thanks for the input!


----------



## eGGe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;12282065*
> Hey guys, I'm really looking forward to Fractal Design coming to Newegg at the end of the month and I'm going to get an R3 when the time comes but I had a few questions.
> 
> The site says it can support a 120mm/140mm on the bottom if the PSU doesn't exceed 160mm but one of the earlier posts on this thread was a user with a corsair psu that measures 180mm (same as mine) and it looked like there might still be room to just barely squeeze in a 120mm fan, can anyone comment?
> 
> Also, how is the cooling when more of the fan slots are populated? I'm thinking of populating the fan slots (Both fronts, bottom if possible, side, rear, and the rearmost top) with Enermax's T.B Silence line (120mm/140mm) which I've read great things about.
> 
> Also, have any of you experienced better temperatures using two top exhausts rather than just one?
> 
> Thanks for the input!


I have red that 1 in the front is enough. The side fan is completely useless and the only fans u really need is 1 back, 1 back on the roof and 1 at the bottom. These are not my own experience, just what other people have said and proven working.


----------



## Siegfried262

Interesting, I feel that a side fan might be more useful in my situation because my graphics card (Gigabyte GTX 560) has a more open cooling design and could benefit from the fresh air.


----------



## wot

I just got my R3 Black Pearl


----------



## eGGe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;12282500*
> Interesting, I feel that a side fan might be more useful in my situation because my graphics card (Gigabyte GTX 560) has a more open cooling design and could benefit from the fresh air.


But if u see at that from this angle, the bottom fan has a dust filter. The side fan has not. And the bottom fan will as well provide fresh air to ur GPU. I haven't heard about anyone that has thought that the side fan is good


----------



## Siegfried262

Easy/cheap enough to rig a homemade filter to the side intake










Only one way to find out.









Not to mention there's a possibility I might not be able to fit a fan to the bottom with my power supply which is 180mm. It looks like (from pictures) I'll just be able to squeeze in a 120mm but I'm not sure.


----------



## 36o

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;12282065*
> Hey guys, I'm really looking forward to Fractal Design coming to Newegg at the end of the month and I'm going to get an R3 when the time comes but I had a few questions.
> 
> The site says it can support a 120mm/140mm on the bottom if the PSU doesn't exceed 160mm but one of the earlier posts on this thread was a user with a corsair psu that measures 180mm (same as mine) and it looked like there might still be room to just barely squeeze in a 120mm fan, can anyone comment?
> 
> Also, how is the cooling when more of the fan slots are populated? I'm thinking of populating the fan slots (Both fronts, bottom if possible, side, rear, and the rearmost top) with Enermax's T.B Silence line (120mm/140mm) which I've read great things about.
> 
> Also, have any of you experienced better temperatures using two top exhausts rather than just one?
> 
> Thanks for the input!


im gonna be running 2 at front 2 uptop 1 rear and thats it =] iv had the old fractal case with a amd in it worked well run at 15 idle 28 full load with coolmaster v6 cooler. highly recomended case







just wasnt enough for full watercooling so i got main pc (gaming one) in a nzxt phantom and gonna run this one as a server box that i can take to lans ect


----------



## ehpexs

I'm about to do some cable management (Mobo #3 is coming in on Friday) anyone have some pics to help me get an idea?


----------



## nVus

I left all the Fan cables and the front cover cables loose so I can move them around without removing the MoBo side/side panel off
The HDD SATA n Pow cables are left with some slack also so i can remove the trays if needed.









Start with the largest/thickest cables while and work your way down to the smallest, also its a good idea to do one type at a time (molex/PCI/Sata/)










Inside view, my case uses all 7 fan options five of the fans are controlled by a NZXT external desktop touch-screen remote and the other 3 fans are controlled by the Fractal Design supplied rheostat fan controller.


































anyway hope that helps, and Good Luck with your build.


----------



## phaseshift

so when is fractal coming to newegg?


----------



## Onions

i jsut got an R3 for my home server build...... i have a 240 rad a gtx 250 and sound proofed teh crap outta it.







i love it great case only complaint is the depth behind the tray its to shallow to hide all teh cables







but i shoved all of them in the hd bay


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Onions*


i jsut got an R3 for my home server build...... i have a 240 rad a gtx 250 and sound proofed teh crap outta it.







i love it great case only complaint is the depth behind the tray its to shallow to hide all teh cables







but i shoved all of them in the hd bay










pics!!


----------



## Siegfried262

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;12355547*
> so when is fractal coming to newegg?


I believe at the end of the month. Can't wait!


----------



## grassh0ppa

Anyone if the Arc Mid will be available on NCIX anytime soon? Looks like a spectacular case, great for air cooling. Possibility for 8 fans....

The air flow is pretty low with stock fans, but 8 of them might be good enough for cooling, and are completely silent...expensive though


----------



## Siegfried262

I believe the Fractal rep said the Arc would be coming to the states around March or April so I'd imagine around that time, maybe a bit earlier.

With quiet components and fans the Arc would be pretty quiet but not as quiet as the Define.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Siegfried262*


I believe the Fractal rep said the Arc would be coming to the states around March or April so I'd imagine around that time, maybe a bit earlier.

With quiet components and fans the Arc would be pretty quiet but not as quiet as the Define.


Yea but the airflow doesnt seem as good. THanks for the info though. Ill be building my case late april, or early may so I should be good, so long as the price is right.


----------



## JMT668

I want!


----------



## Hatakescreams

I lvoe the the Fractal Design XL and want to buy one but i also want water cooling so i can get one


----------



## somebodysb2

so guys, R3 in Black, Grey, Silver or White?
R3 or a Arc Midi?


----------



## infernoRS

Quote:



Originally Posted by *somebodysb2*


so guys, R3 in Black, Grey, Silver or White?


I saw all of them live and then decided to buy the titanium, it is just so awesome looking.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *somebodysb2*


R3 or a Arc Midi?


R3 definitely, I think the Arc is ugly









Edit: does anyone know btw how hard it would be to change the front LED?


----------



## NguyenAdam

I'm going to have to turn my back on FD for a few months... I found a ridiculous deal on a Lian Li and I couldn't pass it up. It may be my case for forever.


----------



## grassh0ppa

How much is the Midi expected to cost?


----------



## timdafweak

Ah, I too am waiting to become a club member. R3 seems to offer the best of both worlds - value and performance. Like others, I too am waiting for Newegg to start stocking the Fractals.


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *timdafweak*


Ah, I too am waiting to become a club member. R3 seems to offer the best of both worlds - value and performance. Like others, I too am waiting for Newegg to start stocking the Fractals.


me too, I'm living in HK and the fractal rep told me it was a difficult market to enter, so chances are slim. ***

I want R3/Arc Midi SOOOO BAD


----------



## infernoRS

Hmm, I'll propably mod the side panel with a window this week

Either I
1) create an nVidia claw logo-like window
2) create a window of some other shape
3) create a normal square window that I'll laser engrave a logo, propably the claw

Then change the front LED to a green one, it was very easy to remove, and put a green cathode or two inside the case.

Tell if you have some good ideas to share









After that I'll propably paint the DVD drive black.


----------



## NguyenAdam

I'll be so jealous when there are going to be a crap load of FDs here. :[


----------



## Limes

I am getting a second Black Pearl because I like mine so much.


----------



## falcon26

Thinking about picking up the Black Pearl R3. How is the cable management on that? I am a neat freak and like all my wires hidden and looking nice and tidy. Also is it a quiet case?


----------



## t-ramp

If I can put off buying a case, I might get a Define Mini once they are released in the States.


----------



## falcon26

Any idea when this will hit Newegg? The R3 that is


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *falcon26*


Any idea when this will hit Newegg? The R3 that is


supposed to be late feb to early march.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Hows the airflow in the R3 with stock fans?


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12417328*
> Hows the airflow in the R3 with stock fans?


fine. but i intend to replace them with TY-140 (in it fits) or Yate loons or gentle typhoons.


----------



## falcon26

I went ahead and ordered the R3 Black Pearl from Ncix I think it will be well worth it. How quiet are the 2 120MM fans that come with it? I have 2 Scythe Sflex 800 RPM fans that are dead quiet, are the Fractal fans just as quiet? Also can you remove that filter on the bottom of the case? The one in front of the PSU?


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;12419310*
> Also can you remove that filter on the bottom of the case? The one in front of the PSU?


Yes


----------



## Rebelord

Fractal coming to Newegg! Freakin sweet. Been putting off picking up a Define XL only because of the $48 shipping. Woot great news for me, and many many others.

Love that case, the look of it is just sex to my eyes. Dont get me wrong, I love Lian-Li cases too. But theres something about the Define XL that draws me to it.

Ski


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;12424390*
> Fractal coming to Newegg! Freakin sweet. Been putting off picking up a Define XL only because of the $48 shipping. Woot great news for me, and many many others.
> 
> Love that case, the look of it is just sex to my eyes. Dont get me wrong, I love Lian-Li cases too. But theres something about the Define XL that draws me to it.
> 
> Ski


How about getting both?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;12424657*
> How about getting both?


Nah, One will be fine. XD

On a side note about case quality. I just helped 2 friend build there computers. They both used Ultra cases (diff models though). The fitment just never was right. Such as alignments for PCI slots to mount the vid cards, the I/O shield was off on both.

So you definatly get what you pay for. Never had any issues with my trusty Antec cases though. (Done 10+ builds with Antec cases)

Ski


----------



## somebodysb2

lian li b10 is pretty much to same as r3


----------



## fr0sty_

Here is my R3.










It's a great case, I do plan on removing the hd bays though to improve airflow. Only negatives apart from the hdd bays (can't accommodate large GPUs and impede airflow) are how heavy it is and the fact that there should have been 3mm extra space behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0sty_;12443953*
> Here is my R3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a great case, I do plan on removing the hd bays though to improve airflow. Only negatives apart from the hdd bays (can't accommodate large GPUs and impede airflow) are how heavy it is and the fact that there should have been 3mm extra space behind the motherboard tray.


580 fits in it right?


----------



## fr0sty_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebodysb2;12444847*
> 580 fits in it right?


Yes, 10.5" is fine but a card like the 5970 will not fit without modding.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0sty_;12444860*
> Yes, 10.5" is fine but a card like the 5970 will not fit without modding.


Define XL FTW, well when Newegg carries it. Don't feel like paying $48+ in shipping right now.


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0sty_;12444860*
> Yes, 10.5" is fine but a card like the 5970 will not fit without modding.


in the R3/Arc Midi?
and it not suffocating?


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebodysb2;12448063*
> in the R3/Arc Midi?
> and it not suffocating?


It would fit in the arc if you took out the removable bay


----------



## falcon26

I'm worried about putting stuff behind the motherboard tray myself. On my Lancool PC-K62 their is at least 1 inch of room for cables. And from what I have been hearing and seeing the Fractal has half that amount. I get mine next week I hope its got enough room to hid most of my stuff...


----------



## fr0sty_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;12450002*
> I'm worried about putting stuff behind the motherboard tray myself. On my Lancool PC-K62 their is at least 1 inch of room for cables. And from what I have been hearing and seeing the Fractal has half that amount. I get mine next week I hope its got enough room to hid most of my stuff...


The panel might bulge a bit but it is hardly noticeable. My cable management is pretty good imo and only results in a tiny bulge...


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;12450002*
> I'm worried about putting stuff behind the motherboard tray myself. On my Lancool PC-K62 their is at least 1 inch of room for cables. And from what I have been hearing and seeing the Fractal has half that amount. I get mine next week I hope its got enough room to hid most of my stuff...


Who did you hear that from?


----------



## stimr2

My panel does bulge a little too with all the wiring back there. A little bit more room back there would be nice.


----------



## falcon26

Does anyone know if the thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme fits in this case?


----------



## Pieiam

Yes


----------



## phaseshift

anyone know if we can get a front panel replacement, the person I bought this case from unfortunately messed up a couple cords and what not. I also feel like its missing a few front panel cords.


----------



## Limes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;12478062*
> anyone know if we can get a front panel replacement, the person I bought this case from unfortunately messed up a couple cords and what not. I also feel like its missing a few front panel cords.


http://fractal-design.com/?view=contact&category=

Try contacting them directly?


----------



## ehpexs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift;12478062*
> anyone know if we can get a front panel replacement, the person I bought this case from unfortunately messed up a couple cords and what not. I also feel like its missing a few front panel cords.


E-mail them. It'll take a while but they'll send you a new one if you provide photos (worked in my case.) <3 Fractal Design


----------



## falcon26

NCIX just sent me an email saying they were sold out of the R3's :-( and that is will be at least 15 days till stock comes in.....my fricking luck......


----------



## Rebelord

That sucks. I'm holding out for Newegg to carry them. Of course, I'm also waiting for EVGA to officially launch there P67 boards. =(


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;12485513*
> That sucks. I'm holding out for Newegg to carry them. Of course, I'm also waiting for EVGA to officially launch there P67 boards. =(


Same. Newegg needs to hurry up.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

My Fractal Design Define XL


















I have a define r2 but I havent finished that one yet.
You can find a build log here, though it is on hold.


----------



## Rebelord

I like how you attached the extra fan to your HDD cage. Please do tell....


----------



## wupah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;12453391*
> My panel does bulge a little too with all the wiring back there. A little bit more room back there would be nice.


same , but I'm going to sleeve my psu wires so they will be flat and it wont bulge anymore .


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;12496552*
> I like how you attached the extra fan to your HDD cage. Please do tell....


The HDD cage is working as a fan duct, with 1 fan at the front, and the other with tierips at the back.
There is a "tube" at the back of the HDD cage, the tierip goes through that "tube" and through the fan holes.










(Had the fan controller on the inside, its now on the outside with a second fan controller)


----------



## Rebelord

Aah. Ok, tyvm for that. Plus your pic with your fan controller on the inside helps. I was wondering how I'd be able to keep my Scythe FC. But the inverse mount seems to be the answer.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL;12496694*
> The HDD cage is working as a fan duct, with 1 fan at the front, and the other with tierips at the back.
> There is a "tube" at the back of the HDD cage, the tierip goes through that "tube" and through the fan holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Had the fan controller on the inside, its now on the outside with a second fan controller)


hows the air flow in that case? How many fans do you have running and what are they? Look like the FD silent series


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;12499267*
> Aah. Ok, tyvm for that. Plus your pic with your fan controller on the inside helps. I was wondering how I'd be able to keep my Scythe FC. But the inverse mount seems to be the answer.


No problem.
I have the fan on the outside now, pushed it a bit into the case.
Doesnt look perfect if you open the door, but at least you dont have to open the case to change the fan speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12501144*
> hows the air flow in that case? How many fans do you have running and what are they? Look like the FD silent series


The airflow isnt bad at all.
It really depends on the fans you are using.
Its not as good as the haf, or cases like that but it keeps my i7 and 470s cool enough.

I have 4x140mm FD fans, 2 behind the door, 1 behind the hdd cage and one on the side. 1x120mm FD fan behind the 5.25" bay, and the stock 230(?)mm fan.
3x 120mm scythe s-flex 1900rpm fans, 2 on the HS and 1 at the back of the case.
And a 40mm FD fan on the NB.

A total of 10 fans.
The rig is pretty silent if the gpu's are not stressed. Once the gpu fans are at 60% or above they'll make more noise than all the other fans at full speed.

2x 120mm


----------



## Pieiam

Hey guys new coding for the sig











PHP:


[URL="https://www.overclock.net/threads/838683/"]Fractal Design Case Club[/URL]


----------



## JohnPrimeXXL

Thanks to Bastiaan_NL for the inspiration and help for mounting the fan on the HDD cage in the Define XL. I didn't had any FD 140mm left so I used 2 Corsair 120mm fans that came with my H70 (which I replaced by a Noctua NH-C12P SE14). The result doesn't look as neat as Bastiaan's because of the fan size and the fact that my black tie wraps are quite short so I can't use the tubes on each side of the cage. Anyway, Here's a couple of shots.









Yep, the Noctua screwed my black/white/red theme but I am way happier with the NH-C12P SE14 than the H70, mainly because I am not overclocking and it provides better cooling on the NB.









This is how I mounted both fans. It helped reduced the temps by ~2C on each component. I'm getting CPU: 31 MB: 29 NB: 41 and SB: 31 at idle. Fans are set to minimum via BIOS.









And finally, the Define XL in all its glory beside my previous rig, a Dell Dimension 9200 which I sold earlier this week to a coworker. It served me quite well and I'm kind of sad seeing her go. Oh well.

Cheers


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pieiam;12517390*
> Hey guys new coding for the sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> [URL="https://www.overclock.net/threads/838683/"]Fractal Design Case Club[/URL]











And this is what it looks like:
Fractal Design Case Club
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnPrimeXXL;12519337*
> Thanks to Bastiaan_NL for the inspiration and help for mounting the fan on the HDD cage in the Define XL. I didn't had any FD 140mm left so I used 2 Corsair 120mm fans that came with my H70 (which I replaced by a Noctua NH-C12P SE14). The result doesn't look as neat as Bastiaan's because of the fan size and the fact that my black tie wraps are quite short so I can't use the tubes on each side of the cage. Anyway, Here's a couple of shots.
> 
> http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6721/img2192v.jpg
> Yep, the Noctua screwed my black/white/red theme but I am way happier with the NH-C12P SE14 than the H70, mainly because I am not overclocking and it provides better cooling on the NB.
> 
> http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1225/img2191qd.jpg
> This is how I mounted both fans. It helped reduced the temps by ~2C on each component. I'm getting CPU: 31 MB: 29 NB: 41 and SB: 31 at idle. Fans are set to minimum via BIOS.
> 
> http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/7360/img2178r.jpg
> And finally, the Define XL in all its glory beside my previous rig, a Dell Dimension 9200 which I sold earlier this week to a coworker. It served me quite well and I'm kind of sad seeing her go. Oh well.
> 
> Cheers


No problem John.
It looks pretty good. If you can find larger tiewraps you can always replace the current ones.

For the cpu fan, I have no idea about the specs from that fan, but you could replace it with the fan FD uses in the top of the XL, maybe they are for sale somewhere. Otherwise you could use a coolermaster 230mm fan, which is black.

You can say what you want about Dell, but I like the design of those dimensions


----------



## fr0sty_

Here's my modded R3...just removed the harddrive bay and added a Scythe Himuro HD cooler. Will grab 2 more gentle typhoons when I get a chance.


----------



## falcon26

The fans in the Fractal R3, are they really that quiet? I am a silence freak and build my system for silence. The fan of choice for me is the scythe sflex at 800 RPM. Its dead silent yet pushed 30 CFM. Are the fractal fans audible?


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fr0sty_*


Here's my modded R3...just removed the harddrive bay and added a Scythe Himuro HD cooler. Will grab 2 more gentle typhoons when I get a chance.

*snip*


That is a very clean build you have there!









Quote:



Originally Posted by *falcon26*


The fans in the Fractal R3, are they really that quiet? I am a silence freak and build my system for silence. The fan of choice for me is the scythe sflex at 800 RPM. Its dead silent yet pushed 30 CFM. Are the fractal fans audible?


Why not just get some fans that push more air, but with a fan controller?


----------



## Pieiam

The fans are quite silent. Atm i have 1 yate loon at the front pulling in cool air. And one fractal on my hyper 212+ and another fractal fan as exhaust. almost silent~


----------



## falcon26

I want that R3 case. But of course Ncix is sold out until like the 15th of march and newegg wouldn't have any for a while either...


----------



## grassh0ppa

These cases are pretty classy... thus I am debating the use of LED fans. I was thinking the 140mm black xigmatek fans with white LED's. I think they'd look sharp with some black and white PSU sleeving. But maybe a classy case like the arc midi wouldnt look as great with LED's? Opinions?


----------



## phaseshift

I contacted fractal and they are sending me a new PCB for the front IO panel. Nice customer support. Any who I'll probably be sending the cover off to get a window put on...trying to think of ways to install a wc system in this beast.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12536993*
> These cases are pretty classy... thus I am debating the use of LED fans. I was thinking the 140mm black xigmatek fans with white LED's. I think they'd look sharp with some black and white PSU sleeving. But maybe a classy case like the arc midi wouldnt look as great with LED's? Opinions?


I was tempted to do exactly that with my XL but instead I decided just to keep my single UV cathode and run with the Fractal fans. Black with white LED's would look very smart though.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing;12537167*
> I was tempted to do exactly that with my XL but instead I decided just to keep my single UV cathode and run with the Fractal fans. Black with white LED's would look very smart though.


I was thinking it'd have that smart look too. I don't like coloured LED's too much, but the whites would look nice.

Also, I'd like to join this club. Ill post pics of my case in a few months when I build.


----------



## Pieiam

And other new members? I haven't had time to trowel through the thread =D


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pieiam*


And other new members? I haven't had time to trowel through the thread =D


Ye, frosty joined, a few posts above yours


----------



## Dom_sufc

I'd really, really, really, _really _ want an R3 XL. Damn.

Pity it would be a pain to sell my current case.


----------



## Rebelord

Any word from that one contact about time frame that Newegg and TD to start carrying them?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


Any word from that one contact about time frame that Newegg and TD to start carrying them?


This.

Though someone did say the Fractal Design rep said it'd be available in March. It's not March yet.


----------



## Rebelord

Ah, ok. Don't remember seeing March. Well thats something to look forward to. Just hope its not late March. xD


----------



## etherealconstruct

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


Any word from that one contact about time frame that Newegg and TD to start carrying them?


Heard over at [H] that a newegg rep said R3 will be available starting Monday. (though he did remark the rep seemed unsure)

Newegg also has dummy listings up for FD:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...1137&SID=194r0


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *etherealconstruct*


Heard over at [H] that a newegg rep said R3 will be available starting Monday. (though he did remark the rep seemed unsure)

Newegg also has dummy listings up for FD:


Sweet, then it should be soon! I just dont like the whole: "Special Shipping" listed


----------



## mbudden

I really hope they come in at a good price & shipping isn't a PITA.


----------



## Rebelord

Exactly, I want a XL Tit. soooo bad.


----------



## mbudden

My only problem is, the cases come with no WC'ing space in mind. I would have to do a rear mount or sell my kit. Unless I could some how mod the rad in behind the front door of the case, but that would probably not work due to the HDD cages...


----------



## Rebelord

For the XL, maybe down in the lower HDD area? or remove the mid HDD cage and modify the 5.25" bay area a little. Idk, I'm not a WC person. Stay air for the simplicity.

William


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


My only problem is, the cases come with no WC'ing space in mind. I would have to do a rear mount or sell my kit. Unless I could some how mod the rad in behind the front door of the case, but that would probably not work due to the HDD cages...


Depending on which case you are talking about, the Define r3 can be used for wc. The only gripe is you can only use two 240mm rads. One up top and if you don't need the extra HDD cages one on the front. You could also take the cart apart and get a cutout for a 360mm rad up top.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


Depending on which case you are talking about, the Define r3 can be used for wc. The only gripe is you can only use two 240mm rads. One up top and if you don't need the extra HDD cages one on the front. You could also take the cart apart and get a cutout for a 360mm rad up top.


I didn't see any holes up top for mounting a 240 rad up there. I'm looking at getting the R3. I thought you could put them up front, but since I don't have a case in front of me. I don't know how much room is up there.


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I didn't see any holes up top for mounting a 240 rad up there. I'm looking at getting the R3. I thought you could put them up front, but since I don't have a case in front of me. I don't know how much room is up there.


For the top, it has holes for 140mm fans along with 120mm fans.

For the front its 2 120mm fans and can fit a 240 rad there as well.

I've been trying to plan a good way to WC the r3 I don't like how my layout is going. Plus I'm stuck with an asus amd board which they don't make waterblocks for... sigh


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


For the top, it has holes for 140mm fans along with 120mm fans.

For the front its 2 120mm fans and can fit a 240 rad there as well.

I've been trying to plan a good way to WC the r3 I don't like how my layout is going. Plus I'm stuck with an asus amd board which they don't make waterblocks for... sigh


Crap... I see that now...
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/F...fine_R3/3.html

I kept looking at the XL and not seeing holes at the top.
Perfect, looks like it would be good afterall.

And what you do you mean? Are you talking about MoBo WB? Or?


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Crap... I see that now...
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/F...fine_R3/3.html

I kept looking at the XL and not seeing holes at the top.
Perfect, looks like it would be good afterall.

And what you do you mean? Are you talking about MoBo WB? Or?


yeah the mobo chipset block, the loop would look soo much better to have the chipsets cooled along with my sli setup and cpu...but I would be taking a gamble with temps trying to cool all those components with 2x 240 rads.


----------



## phaseshift

here is a picture of someone over at XS who installed a rad in the front


----------



## JohnPrimeXXL

I posted some pictures in this thread and I didn't explicitly asked to join. Me want in.


----------



## eagle3566

So I don't know if any of you have seen this yet, but I just noticed this on newegg, and I know they weren't there a couple days ago. Gonna be going on sale any day now it looks like. No more $50 shipping from NCIX, can't wait to do my first build this summer with the R3.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=fractal+design&x=0&y=0


----------



## johnnyxbl4ze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eagle3566*


So I don't know if any of you have seen this yet, but I just noticed this on newegg, and I know they weren't there a couple days ago. Gonna be going on sale any day now it looks like. No more $50 shipping from NCIX, can't wait to do my first build this summer with the R3.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...design&x=0&y=0


they were on sale today but sold out


----------



## eagle3566

Quote:



Originally Posted by *johnnyxbl4ze*


they were on sale today but sold out


Do you know what price they had the R3 listed for?


----------



## falcon26

They went for $109 and $16 for shipping


----------



## eagle3566

Quote:



Originally Posted by *falcon26*


They went for $109 and $16 for shipping


Awesome. Thanks for the info


----------



## mbudden

They sold out? UGH!


----------



## Pieiam

PM me or post in this thread if you want your name added to this AMAZING list


----------



## moda

Bought myself a Fractal XL the other day...... ahh i'm so glad we don't have to deal with all your US stock bull****... walked into the store, walked out with one, then went to another store and they had a stack of all the fractal cases against one corner.









It's an awesome case btw, brilliant to build in, what an upgrade from my P180.

Only issues I have with it are the paint on the pci brackets are a bit peal-ey and I wish that they included an 8pin eps extension cable, and that the cover that you can take off between the psu chamber and the main chamber was adjustable, had to take the entire thing off to fit the 8pin cable. Thinking i'm going to manufacture one out of perspex.

Can't decide between black and white or black and red themes.... thinking black and red might be easier since all my sata cables and some motherboard accents are red, but black and white is rarer and looks better imo... plus there isn't much white left once you populate all the hdd bays...


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moda*


Can't decide between black and white or black and red themes.... thinking black and red might be easier since all my sata cables and some motherboard accents are red, but black and white is rarer and looks better imo... plus there isn't much white left once you populate all the hdd bays...


Go with black and white. If your motherboard has red accents it'll add a bit of colour in there too.

As for the 8 pin. I had the same issue, bought one of the NZXT sleeved cable extensions so I could run the 8 pin behind the motherboard and leave the cover in place over the PSU.


----------



## NguyenAdam

This club is about to get a whole lot bigger. Haha


----------



## falcon26

Just got my R3 and love it! System is dead silent. Its probably the quietest system I've ever had. And it looks awesome. I'll throw some pictures up later.....very very pleased...


----------



## JohnPrimeXXL

I wish I bought the R3 instead of the XL which is way too big for my needs. I might keep the XL for a server and go with a HAF 912 (stupidly cheap) with better cooling options. :/


----------



## grassh0ppa

I posted this in the air cooling section, and maybe I could post it too for a bit more help.

ust a question:

Say I have a heatsink with 2 fans in push-pull @ 95CFM each and say you have 4 intake and 4 exhaust case fans @ 40 CFM each...

What kind of impact would this have on overall airflow and cooling performance? Should I get higher CFM fans? the good thing about the fractal design fans is that they are completley silent - like 9dba @ 900 RPM, match the overall look I'm going for, but have low CFM. Would 8 of these fans in an Arc Midi provide enough general airflow and would they be enough to offset the higher CFM fans on the heat sink assuming I had 4 dedicated to exhaust?

One person in the other thread suggested that I face the heatsink so it exhausts air toward the top of the case, seems like a good idea - does the orientation of the heatsink really matter?

I just see so many people with fan controllers to dial back loud fan speeds and thus lower the CFM. So I'm thinking why not just get these low cfm, silent fans - as long as they would provide adequate cooling.

Although this has me thinking of the Frio over the Spire Thermax Eclipse II as the stock fans have built in fan controllers to dial back the speed, and also perfectly match the black and white colour scheme of my case. My goal is to have a quiet, good looking case with a black and white colour scheme.

Sorry, it's a lot at once, bit if anyone thinks they are knowledgeable to provide some input please do! I'd really appreciate it


----------



## Rebelord

Nice the R3s are in stock. But I want a XL....


----------



## goldbranch

Can't wait till the the Arc mini is released.


----------



## falcon26

Ok here's mine. And yes those rubber things come out way way to easy. I ended up just taking them out...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## redalert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *falcon26*


Ok here's mine. And yes those rubber things come out way way to easy. I ended up just taking them out...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Looks really good nice and clean looking not ugly like my HAF 922


----------



## Pieiam

The airflow in the R3 is pretty good. Atm i have, 1 yate loon pulling air. 1 Fractal exhaust and on pushing on my hyper212+.

Temps around 50 degrees while playing minecraft


----------



## JiminyBillyBob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;12620889*
> And yes those rubber things come out way way to easy. I ended up just taking them out...


Doesn't that mean you get vibration from the HDDs?


----------



## moda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JiminyBillyBob*


Doesn't that mean you get vibration from the HDDs?


Think he means the rubber grommets that go around the cable management holes.


----------



## mbudden

I wonder if the FD rep will chime back in and tell us if there are going to be any other cases being sold by Newegg.


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I wonder if the FD rep will chime back in and tell us if there are going to be any other cases being sold by Newegg.


I REPEAT: Arc Midi will be available in end of March.


----------



## mbudden

... That's just one. I wonder what ALL they are bringing to Newegg.


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


... That's just one. I wonder what ALL they are bringing to Newegg.


The entire Arc line are probably in Shipping to the Newegg warehouse from Taiwan. 
(I think Lian Li builds them?)


----------



## redalert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


... That's just one. I wonder what ALL they are bringing to Newegg.


it sounds like the are all of their cases will be sold by newegg judging by this post.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*


We have found an agreement with Newegg.com to sell our products, and our products should be available with them in late february for the already released products, such as Define R3, Define XL etc. The newly released products, such as Arc Miditower and Define Mini, will be shipped from March and on and available circa early April.


----------



## JiminyBillyBob

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moda*


Think he means the rubber grommets that go around the cable management holes.












The R3 looks great, am thinking about getting one and switching out my p183 for my server.


----------



## snoogins

Oh man, just found out about fractal design.







Looks like I'll be selling my a05n when the midi releases, can't wait!


----------



## JohnPrimeXXL

Someone asked me where did I got the Corsair fans from via the reputation system from this post. I don't know who you are but thanks for the rep and here's the answer:

I took them from my Corsair H70 since I'm not using it anymore (I'm not overclocking so it's kinda moot). I replaced the H70 by a Noctua NH-C12P SE14 and now using the H70 fans in my FD XL for better cooling. The water pump/radiator are in my closet as I don't know what to do with them (I should sell it maybe) The Corsair fans are attached to the fan controller that comes with the case along with a 50mm fan for NB spot cooling (not shown in the pictures).


----------



## antipesto93

Getting the R3 White this week, Looks like a great case, But i really want to put a window on, I can cut the hole, But then how to i stick a window on?


----------



## Rebelord

Quick! Define XL's are IN SToCK!! $149+24.99shipping. XD

Ski


----------



## mbudden

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352005&cm_re=fractal_design-_-11-352-005-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352006&cm_re=fractal_design-_-11-352-006-_-Product


----------



## falcon26

Those XL cases are nice. But a bit too big for me. I think they are bigger than an Antec P183 if I'm not mistaken. Where as the R3 is slightly smaller than the P183.


----------



## redalert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antipesto93;12657065*
> Getting the R3 White this week, Looks like a great case, But i really want to put a window on, I can cut the hole, But then how to i stick a window on?


http://www.mnpctech.com/scotch_4010_tape_of_the_casemod_gods.html


----------



## JohnPrimeXXL

I reconfigured my fans setup in my Define XL over the week-end and it is now way better than before. I removed the two Corsair I setup internally along with the NB 50mm cooler and my temps are reasonable still. So now I have 180mm top + 140mm (original) rear as exhaust and 140mm (original) top front + 140mm (bought) front bottom as intake.

While redoing my fan configuration, I notices that the 140mm I bought from NCIX had 9 blades running at ~800 RPM max. This is different from the ones that came with the case (11 blades at ~1100RPM). I sent an email to Fractal Design's support, will see what they have to say about that.


----------



## grassh0ppa

It's the 14th now... I'm guessing well see the Arc Midi start popping up this week?


----------



## Jodiuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12729686*
> It's the 14th now... I'm guessing well see the Arc Midi start popping up this week?


Oh wow...really? Thunderbolt and MIDI in the same week? I might have to cancel Saturday's rock climbing plans.


----------



## ch1nesetakeout

I just ordered this case. Ditching my CM Scout. This one is much more my style. Got the Silver/Black


----------



## Jodiuh

Sorry, which case?


----------



## antipesto93

R3 here:


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Nice setup antipesto93, I love the white one


----------



## N3G4T1v3

These cases look awesome, I want one









@antipesto93, I like your Frio


----------



## antipesto93

^ Thanks, cooler perfoms really well, 2500k @ 5.0ghz and fans at lowest rpm









Removed HDD cage and working on side window now


----------



## Gunlock

Hey guys.

Just wanting to double check - can you fit a 240 rad in the top of this case and still use the rear 120 fan slot?

Tempted to sell my P182SE for an R3 as the P182 really isnt designed for WC'ing.


----------



## Jodiuh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *antipesto93*


Removed HDD cage and working on side window now


How difficult was that? I'd really like to remove it, then put a few back...


----------



## b0z0

I'm ordering the Fractal define R3 this weekend. I'm currently going to be piecing a new system together. How is the airflow in this case, and is there anything you dislike about the case? I'm going with Sli 580's.


----------



## stimr2

Here are some updated pics of my R3.

I changed out the stock case feet for some MNPCTECH billet aluminum micro case feet. Had to use the smaller ones because of the psu intake/filter. I also had to drill out the holes bigger to install the feet. The stock feet were so cheap and the foam pads came off to easily.

I replaced my Scythe Mugen 2 for a Corsair H70 and replaced my 5770 for a 6950.

Added a Scythe S-Flex G at the bottom intake. So I have 2 Zalman ZM-F3s in the front, 2 Scythe S-Flex Gs at the top, 2 more S-Flex Gs on the H70 controlled from a Lamptron Touch.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Looks good









Btw, the gpu slot is kinda low on the board, 3 slots are empty above it.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bastiaan_NL*


Looks good









Btw, the gpu slot is kinda low on the board, 3 slots are empty above it.


Agreed.

Also, I've been trying to contact Fractal for information on a release date for the Arc Midi (in Canadian stores) and and an estimated price but they haven't gotten back to me in like two weeks. Kind makes me feel like looking for a new case.

This morning I emailed dazmode about some of his fans and I got a reply within 30 minutes.

bah


----------



## redalert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


Agreed.

Also, I've been trying to contact Fractal for information on a release date for the Arc Midi (in Canadian stores) and and an estimated price but they haven't gotten back to me in like two weeks. Kind makes me feel like looking for a new case.

This morning I emailed dazmode about some of his fans and I got a reply within 30 minutes.

bah


a couple places in UK have a price listed already

http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/pro...ases/fd-arc-bl
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...pid-13090.html

edit
They list the R3 for the same price as the midi so I would expect the same here in the US and Canada around $110


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redalert*


a couple places in UK have a price listed already

http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/pro...ases/fd-arc-bl
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...pid-13090.html

edit
They list the R3 for the same price as the midi so I would expect the same here in the US and Canada around $110


I expected it to be around 100 bucks. There's a lot of competition with most products in Canada so hopefully NCIX isn't the only website with Fractal Design stuff. Newegg.ca doesn't even have the R3's yet, but Newegg.com does...


----------



## UrbanSmooth

What is the point of running fans in a case that is closed like that? I'll tell you: NO POINT WHATSOEVER!

Those refrigerator-looking cases with a front panel that is 100% closed will net you ZERO airflow in your case.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


What is the point of running fans in a case that is closed like that? I'll tell you: NO POINT WHATSOEVER!

Those refrigerator-looking cases with a front panel that is 100% closed will net you ZERO airflow in your case.


Actually you get quite a lot of airflow. If I open the door on my XL all it does is makes things louder, don't get any more airflow through the case. Please note the vents all the way down each side of the front of the case. There is also a huge vent at the bottom of the front panel to let more air in.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing*   Actually you get quite a lot of airflow. If I open the door on my XL all it does is makes things louder, don't get any more airflow through the case. Please note the vents all the way down each side of the front of the case. There is also a huge vent at the bottom of the front panel to let more air in.  
_
Did someone say vents..._

IT WAS A SETUP!


----------



## NguyenAdam

When is the Arc Midi coming out?!


----------



## grassh0ppa

Anyone know if the Arc Midi Drive bay covers will cover the CD/DVD drive and/or a fan controller when installed? I prefer the sleek look as opposed to having a 1337 blu-LED fan controller glowing in all its glory


----------



## falcon26

Ok got my Fractal R3 revised. Temps are great airflow is nice and its pretty darn quiet...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;12883994*
> Ok got my Fractal R3 revised. Temps are great airflow is nice and its pretty darn quiet...
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


And it looks really good too








I want your GPU!


----------



## b0z0

Ordered my Black Define R3 today


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0;12958171*
> Ordered my Black Define R3 today


Nice, Cant wait to see some pictures


----------



## DarthShader

Question to R3 owners: Does the bitumen inside the case smell bad?


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

As far as I've tested the bitumen inside my case doesnt smell bad, though I have the define xl.


----------



## falcon26

I actually changed mine around a little. I put the rubber gomets back in and changed the memory to the new Gskill Sniper 1.25V memory 



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *falcon26*


I actually changed mine around a little. I put the rubber gomets back in and changed the memory to the new Gskill Sniper 1.25V memory 



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Nice set up. I'm getting the UD4 too because I thought it would look great in the black Fractal Design cases, and it does! I'll be getting the x760 too, although I may feel obliged to move the stickers around haha... perfectionist.


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthShader;12961339*
> Question to R3 owners: Does the bitumen inside the case smell bad?


It doesn't smell bad at all. People complained about the smell in the R2 and I'm guessing Fractal Design fixed that with the R3.


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;12963933*
> It doesn't smell bad at all. People complained about the smell in the R2 and I'm guessing Fractal Design fixed that with the R3.


I've got an R2 too, but no smell in that one either...
I guess someone just needed something to complain about, FD is just too awesome


----------



## falcon26

Good luck trying to remove that sticker on the side of the seasonic. I tried its pretty impossible.....but as you pointed out that is probably the one thing I do not like about my setup is the sticker facing out....


----------



## ohzer0

my homeboys--inprogress


----------



## fanaddict

I actually don't care about silence at all, but this case has some nice features. What are the temps like with all of the optional fans added and speeds turned up to medium?

Does anyone know the release date on the Arc Midi?


----------



## redalert

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fanaddict*


I actually don't care about silence at all, but this case has some nice features. What are the temps like with all of the optional fans added and speeds turned up to medium?

Does anyone know the release date on the Arc Midi?


the fractal rep said early April


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ohzer0*


my homeboys--inprogress



















The white looks sharp. Very nice case, post pics when youre done putting everything togethe!


----------



## b0z0

I was gonna get the white R3, but decided to stick with black


----------



## stimr2

I have to agree white definitively looks awesome.

Temps aren't bad right now but I'm waiting to see how it performs during the hot summers here. It gets about 100F here during the summer and with the A/C on the room gets about 78-80F(25-27C). I'm running all my fans at around 60% of their full speed. According to my fan controller its about 25-26C in the case and its about 22-23C in my room. I bump up the fan speeds to 70-80% when I'm gaming.


----------



## ohzer0

anyone have any idea if their case fans are available from any US re/etailers?


----------



## B3RGY

these cases look awesome, especially the white r3


----------



## Ragsters

I wish I was in this club. I want the Arc Mini so bad but don't know where to purchase it from.


----------



## fr0sty_

White cases look very nice!

Here's my case in its current form:


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0sty_;12983150*
> White cases look very nice!
> 
> Here's my case in its current form:


I was thinking about getting this case but I need to know a certain dimension to see if it will fit in the space I have for it. Can you tell me the dimension from the front of the case to the front feet? I looks like 3-4 inches but i need to be certain.


----------



## falcon26

Wow that blue color scheme with the wires looks pretty cool man. Where did you get those? Nice job....very eye catching...


----------



## ehpexs

I thought I might post a picture of my rig now that I have my 4th and final motherboard. I still need to do some cable management.










Full Res link https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_90bK-MdWa-U/TZitLb-OybI/AAAAAAAAAK0/aE07nkfOl74/s0/DSC08204.jpg


----------



## B3RGY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fr0sty_;12983150*
> White cases look very nice!
> 
> Here's my case in its current form:


nice job with cable management / sleeving, looks nice and clean


----------



## fr0sty_

Thanks for the nice comments guys. I love sleeving and tinkering with the setup. Next up: SSD.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Anyone know when the Arc Mini is going to be available from retailers?


----------



## redalert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;12987797*
> Anyone know when the Arc Mini is going to be available from retailers?


Its supposed to be early April for Arc Midi and Mini


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redalert;12987937*
> Its supposed to be early April for Arc Midi and Mini


That's rather soon! Thank you.


----------



## ehpexs

I finally finished my cable management (it took a few hours.) Tell me what you guys think.

Before:









After:


----------



## grassh0ppa

Wow. Excellent job with a non-modular PSU and a ****ton of harddrives! You should sharpie those sata cables though, and use black zipties (too late







)









Goes to show how great the cable management is in the R3 though.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Don't you just hate cable/wire management? Also, what's up with all of the storage drives? Are you running a mini server?


----------



## ehpexs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12990412*
> Wow. Excellent job with a non-modular PSU and a ****ton of harddrives! You should sharpie those sata cables though, and use black zipties (too late
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goes to show how great the cable management is in the R3 though.


Thanks, I agree the R3 is one of the best cases around (if not the best all around case.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;12991171*
> Don't you just hate cable/wire management? Also, what's up with all of the storage drives? Are you running a mini server?


I don't mind to be honest, I hate a rat's nest. I am running the computer as both workstation and a home server, so it's doing dual (plus a few other things) duty.

I cleaned up my cable management a bit more (I used about 150-175 zip ties in total.)


----------



## ohzer0

anyone know where i can get more of the case fans


----------



## ehpexs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohzer0;12992468*
> anyone know where i can get more of the case fans


I'd actually get Gelid fans over the fractal design fans. NCIX carries both, the advantage of the Gelid is that they're about the same price, but have 4-pin power connectors.


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ehpexs;12992487*
> I'd actually Gelid fans over the fractal design fans. NCIX carries both, the advantage of the Gelid is that they're about the same price, but have 4-pin power connectors.


NCIX ships to US yeah? I hope shipping isn't an arm and a leg


----------



## ehpexs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohzer0;12992503*
> NCIX ships to US yeah? I hope shipping isn't an arm and a leg


They should, I'm canadian and order from them all the time so I can't talk about their US service; but I've heard good things.


----------



## Jodiuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohzer0;12969117*
> my homeboys--inprogress


More!

Sent from my thunderbolt of furious thunstrosity using tapatalk.


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jodiuh;12993320*
> More!
> 
> Sent from my thunderbolt of furious thunstrosity using tapatalk.


it's coming.

patience young padawan.


----------



## Wandatin

How good is the cooling in an R3? It seems like it'd have a really hard time getting air to the CPU/GPU with both the way air is pulled through the front door, then having the hard drive cage further blocking the airflow.


----------



## NguyenAdam

Any news on the Arc Midi/Mini releasing?


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;12995223*
> Any news on the Arc Midi/Mini releasing?


Should be within the next two weeks I imagine.


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wandatin;12994500*
> How good is the cooling in an R3? It seems like it'd have a really hard time getting air to the CPU/GPU with both the way air is pulled through the front door, then having the hard drive cage further blocking the airflow.


There are vents all across the side of the front bezel and at the bottom.

I'm undecided if I want to use the Arc Midi or the Obsidian 650D for my bulldozer build. I really love both cases.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;12996506*
> Should be within the next two weeks I imagine.


But will newegg sell them?


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;13001161*
> But will newegg sell them?


They better.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;13001161*
> But will newegg sell them?


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters;13001161*
> But will newegg sell them?


they sell all the other FD cases so I don't see why not.

Linus from NCIX says the shipments keep getting delayed... I assume it probably wont be till mid april when we finally see these cases out


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

I'm working on my casemod again.
Its an Define R2.
If anyone wants to check it out, you can find it here.


----------



## b0z0

I just received my case last night. I must say that this case is the WOW factor. I was very impressed and pleased with my purchase. The quality is amazing for the price.


----------



## phaseshift

once again Malik from XS leaves me gasping for air!

His latest project is the XL



















he is such an awesome modder!


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

I had sent Fractal Design an email a few days ago asking if they plan to offer an upgrade or retrofit to USB 3.0 for the Define R3 case since it only has USB 2, as the Lian Li PC-9F case that I was looking at (for my upcoming i7/SB build) has USB 3.

Here is their response this morning:

Hello,

Thank you for your mail, and thank you for interest about our products.
Very soon we will be able to offer USB3.0 upgrade kit for Define R3.
We are now working to find a technical solution for upgrade,
but unfortunately for now I can´t tell you exactly date when upgrade kit will be available on the market.

Best regards
Fractal Design

I thought they had ignored my email and almost given up.. but at least it's good to know that there is a possible USB 3 retrofit or upgrade in the future.


----------



## b0z0

Yeah, The case is Amazing. I was blown away by the quality when I looked at it yesterday after receiving it.


----------



## grassh0ppa

approaching mid april, still no sign of the new rigs. Might just go with a 600T or something really cheap to hold me over.


----------



## taintedmind

I got my own Fractal Design XL case a few days ago.


----------



## Jodiuh

Welcome me! (posted on XS too)

Corsair's AX 750 and F90 came to play.









Coolermaster Stacker 810 vs Fractal Design Define R3

















Snuck the SSD up and out of the way. I'm actually using 5 Scythe SFLEX E's now, 2 in, 2 out, 1 cpu.









But I can spice it up a bit here and say that I really like this case. I've got a bunch of numbers and things w/ an sb meter, but it's nearly as quiet as my Stacker and can will be MADE quieter once I cut out the fan grills...those need to go along w/ 3/4 of that HDD rack!

I'm pleased with this case although would be embarrassed if someone found out the front's plastic feels like something from a play toy nearly 2 decades ago. :/


----------



## Pieiam

New members









antipesto93
ohzer0
phaseshift
b0z0
taintedmind
Jodiuh

Tell me if I missed you out!

BTW guys, despite this as being a silent case, it has quite impressive airflow. I have 1 fan at the front (Which definitely pulls air through, there are vents all around it) 1 exhaust and 1 HSF fan (Yate)

Getting temps of around 40 idle, and 55 at load


----------



## fanaddict

Two websites have surfaced that at least have the Arc Midi listed for sale (one doesn't have it in stock, not sure about the other).

http://www.techbuy.com.au/p/167329/CASINGS_MIDI-TOWER/Fractal_Design/FD-CA-ARC-BL.asp#

http://www.quietpc.com/ca-en-cad/products/pc-cases/fd-arc-bl

Unfortunately, Quietpc says "[Coming late May, 252 on order]".

LATE MAY?!?? I hope that Quietpc is just farther back in priority in terms of which stores get it first. I'm not sure that's the case though.

I think I'll wait another week+ and see if anything surfaces. But imo if it was going to be out in a week or two we'd already have more news/store features/updates.

Edit, can you take out the black plastic contraption out of the bottom of the Define R3 case, and attach a fan just to the metal, without using the attached plastic piece?


----------



## AusPC

Just a Questions to you guys who own a Define XL,

1) Can the Side Doors be removed? If they are fixed how are they attached?
2) What is the Distance Between the Case Floor and the Horizontal Lengths just above the Hard Drive Holders?

The Reason I am asking is because I am going to start a new Build Log,

Thanks for any help provided.

Cheers - Jason.


----------



## redalert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fanaddict;13055475*
> Two websites have surfaced that at least have the Arc Midi listed for sale (one doesn't have it in stock, not sure about the other).
> 
> http://www.techbuy.com.au/p/167329/CASINGS_MIDI-TOWER/Fractal_Design/FD-CA-ARC-BL.asp#
> 
> http://www.quietpc.com/ca-en-cad/products/pc-cases/fd-arc-bl
> 
> Unfortunately, Quietpc says "[Coming late May, 252 on order]".
> 
> LATE MAY?!?? I hope that Quietpc is just farther back in priority in terms of which stores get it first. I'm not sure that's the case though.
> 
> I think I'll wait another week+ and see if anything surfaces. But imo if it was going to be out in a week or two we'd already have more news/store features/updates.
> 
> Edit, can you take out the black plastic contraption out of the bottom of the Define R3 case, and attach a fan just to the metal, without using the attached plastic piece?


QuietPC had the MIDI listed on there site for at least a month and it was supposed to be in stock April 29 IIRC


----------



## grassh0ppa

Late may? geez, time to look for a new case. Probably a 690II basic


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Still awaiting the release of the Arc Mini for my new SFF water-cooled SLI surround gaming build.


----------



## fanaddict

Are temps fine in this case if you're running hot/overclocked hardware? Unfortunately all the reviews I've read use the stock cooling setup.


----------



## Jeci

Does anyone have any heads up on when the ARC mini is going to be available - Rough costings also?


----------



## Jayrock

I was told that Newegg will have an expanded Fractal line-up by June when I asked about the _Define_ Mini. I'm waiting for it as I don't want another Mini P180.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AusPC;13055560*
> Just a Questions to you guys who own a Define XL,
> 
> 1) Can the Side Doors be removed? If they are fixed how are they attached?
> 2) What is the Distance Between the Case Floor and the Horizontal Lengths just above the Hard Drive Holders?
> 
> The Reason I am asking is because I am going to start a new Build Log,
> 
> Thanks for any help provided.
> 
> Cheers - Jason.


1. Side doors? I assume the panals they are not the traditonal slide into place like most cases on the market but a simple pivoting point and held on with two thumbscrews. (Much easier imo)

2. I assume the bottom hard drive compartment? It's about 6 1/4 inches and from the bottom of the inside of the case to the bottom of the drivebay it's 12 1/2 inches.
(hope that is what you needed)

and any other info
http://www.3dgameman.com/reviews/1199/fractal-design-define-xl-case


----------



## ohzer0

more to play with. it's almost done


----------



## falcon26

Wow the white r3 looks pretty sick. If I had an all white system monitor keyboard etc I would have gotten the white one...


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohzer0;13066677*
> more to play with. it's almost done


Very sick setup. I am enjoying my new gray XL. Still need to clean it up abit but i love the case. Very ez build


----------



## tats

Anyone have a p67-UD4 in an R3? Just wondering because it looks like my bottom card would be smashed up against my PSU..... Anyone got pics of something similar?


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tats;13088032*
> Anyone have a p67-UD4 in an R3? Just wondering because it looks like my bottom card would be smashed up against my PSU..... Anyone got pics of something similar?


Based on the specs I found Newegg, the dimensions of the P67-UD4 is exactly the same as the P8P67 I used at 12" x 9.6"

It really depends how far your last card sticks out.


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohzer0;13088674*
> Based on the specs I found Newegg, the dimensions of the P67-UD4 is exactly the same as the P8P67 I used at 12" x 9.6"
> 
> It really depends how far your last card sticks out.


I think what I'm worried abuot it the slot placement of my bottom card....

Thanks for the quick answer though, but I'm going to continue my search for pics


----------



## joeyac02

anyone hear anything about the arc midi comin to north america yet?


----------



## falcon26

I have the UD4 and a seasonic psu in my R3. I also have a sound blaster XFI in that bottom slot and their is no problem at all. It fits perfectly without a problem...


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;13090585*
> I have the UD4 and a seasonic psu in my R3. I also have a sound blaster XFI in that bottom slot and their is no problem at all. It fits perfectly without a problem...


Anyway you can shoot a quick pic of your case?


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

Please add me to the Fractal Design Case Club. I received my R3 (Black) this morning, but unfortunately, UPS (or something) decided to take a crack at it and left some damage. I've posted the photos and details at http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/981015-fractal-design-r3-lian-li-pc-4.html#post13098341.


----------



## hakkafusion

i want that define mini! have it sale alreadyyy! lol


----------



## falcon26

Here you go...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## ohzer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pieiam;13055418*
> New members
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> antipesto93
> ohzer0
> phaseshift
> b0z0
> taintedmind
> Jodiuh
> 
> Tell me if I missed you out!
> ...


if you could kindly remove my name and instead add ackneal since I built it for him and not me


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;13102867*
> Here you go...
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Thanks man! I ordered it today. So I'll post pics this weekend.


----------



## grassh0ppa

you can remove me from the list too. went with the haf 912. i WILL have the arc midi ane day though. I promise you


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Still waiting for the Arc Mini...


----------



## Jeci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13104359*
> Still waiting for the Arc Mini...


Same!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeci;13110973*
> Same!


\Project\ Mini Surround Fury


----------



## tats

Just got mine tonight, thought I would put up some pics of how much smaller this thing is than my current monstrosity.

View attachment 205478


View attachment 205479


----------



## Pieiam

D:: But fractal is so nice


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pieiam;13121296*
> D:: But fractal is so nice


Yeah I really like the design and the 800 was enormous


----------



## NguyenAdam

Where is the Arc?!


----------



## cmos

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam*


Where is the Arc?!


I don't know









but I really want it.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Looks like several vendors are now estimating stock in late May or early June.

Frankly, I would just be happy to see a review...based on a pre-production unit or an early production unit. The fact that we haven't seen such reviews makes me wonder if there have been issues...and/or if FD is not enthusiastic about having one tested at the moment.

Personally, I am guessing that the case may be a tad loud given all of the mesh...and perhaps they are trying to determine how to get decent airflow at lower RPMs for lower dBs, but I'm just guessing. Hopefully we won't have to wait much longer to know for sure.


----------



## antipesto93

Support is great, They sent me a new side panel because mine was damaged in transit !


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA;13176013*
> Personally, I am guessing that the case may be a tad loud given all of the mesh...and perhaps they are trying to determine how to get decent airflow at lower RPMs for lower dBs, but I'm just guessing. Hopefully we won't have to wait much longer to know for sure.


Nothing that a rubber fan gasket can't fix.


----------



## stimr2

Hopefully, the Arc will be available when bullbozer is released.

I almost convinced myself to go sandy bridge. But I bought a new monitor instead.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stimr2*


Hopefully, the Arc will be available when bullbozer is released.

I almost convinced myself to go sandy bridge. But I bought a new monitor instead.


Wait for Ivy Bridge, will be well worth it. Your system is good enough for now.


----------



## nerdybeat

Wow... after seeing the core 3000 and Arc on their site.... it's going to be hard to wait. I am debating between the 650D and one of those. Fortunately the 650D is relatively hard to get right now, so I can wait a bit for the new FD cases.


----------



## phaseshift

Fractal make an inverted atx case!!!!!!


----------



## trentiles

I will be joining the club today as my titanium grey R3 is being delivered this afternoon. I can't wait!


----------



## joeyac02

finally after 2 weeks got a response about the arc midi coming to the states!

Hi Joseph,

Thank you for your interest in Fractal Design products. We are expected Newegg to sell the Arc Midi in June. I can't wait either.

Best,

Elizabeth Castiglioni


----------



## stimr2

Awesome can't wait to get mine and give my R3 to my brother.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyac02;13205781*
> finally after 2 weeks got a response about the arc midi coming to the states!
> 
> Hi Joseph,
> 
> Thank you for your interest in Fractal Design products. We are expected Newegg to sell the Arc Midi in June. I can't wait either.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Elizabeth Castiglioni


Holy buzz kill. And here I was checking Newegg everyday for the past month hoping to pounce on it.


----------



## joeyac02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7;13206870*
> Holy buzz kill. And here I was checking Newegg everyday for the past month hoping to pounce on it.


me too!


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyac02;13205781*
> finally after 2 weeks got a response about the arc midi coming to the states!
> 
> Hi Joseph,
> 
> Thank you for your interest in Fractal Design products. We are expected Newegg to sell the Arc Midi in June. I can't wait either.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Elizabeth Castiglioni


@#$%!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why must it take so long!?


----------



## nerdybeat

Hi Dominic,

Thanks for your mail and your nice words,
In the next 6 weeks we will have the Core 3000 and ARC Miditower available at New Egg,

Best Regards,

Jens Harnisch

received this email last night


----------



## Faraz

Add me, please.


----------



## falcon26

Very nice  Dam you have alot of HD's


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Why do people even need so many hard drives? I'm sorry, but, I think a lot of it has to do with E-PEEN.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

MID JUNE?









BTW, same source told me April about two months ago









- Scuba


----------



## joeyac02

yea guess just keep checking lol


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA;13208501*
> MID JUNE?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, same source told me April about two months ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Scuba


I've been hearing June for a while, though hoping that it would be sooner than that.


----------



## nerdybeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13208173*
> Why do people even need so many hard drives? I'm sorry, but, I think a lot of it has to do with E-PEEN.


Judging by that poster's sig rig (not what's in that R3), and that the R3 is a near-silent case - I think it is safe to say that is a server. I don't plan to build a server anytime soon, but if I did I would totally use a R3. My buddy has plans to use one as a server build in the next couple months.

I doubt it is an e-peen thing


----------



## Faraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13208173*
> Why do people even need so many hard drives? I'm sorry, but, I think a lot of it has to do with E-PEEN.


You're right. I bought one hard drive too many. But I'll be needing it in the not so distant future, so no harm done.


----------



## antipesto93

And dont forget, spreading your data over multiple hard drives/platters improves seek times massively


----------



## b0z0

will the R3 be able to house the new EVGA FTW P67. its 12 x 10


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Yeah, June on NewEgg, per the e-mail response from Fractal to me regarding the Arc Mini.

Just to reiterate what everyone else has been saying, heh.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13246525*
> Yeah, June on NewEgg, per the e-mail response from Fractal to me regarding the Arc Mini.
> 
> Just to reiterate what everyone else has been saying, heh.


I am really interested in the Define Mini. I want to build an awesome mATX build with that baby.








Quote:


> Thank you for your interest in Fractal Design products. I want the same case, too. We expect it to be available from Newegg in June.
> Feel free to let me know how your build goes.
> Best,
> Elizabeth Castiglioni


Also their PSUs look reallllly nice and I want to get one as well.
Quote:


> We are looking forward to bringing our power supplies to the US, too They will not be coming in the immediate future. We do have plans to bring the entire line over hear.
> We are working on getting the brand name built in the US.
> Best,
> E


----------



## james_ant

Just wanted to let everyone here know that the Define R3 Black is on sale for 109$ including a free CoolIT Eco Water cooler.

Sick deal, I will be joining the club as soon as mine comes in. Fractal makes such good cases.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james_ant;13319480*
> Just wanted to let everyone here know that the Define R3 Black is on sale for 109$ including a free CoolIT Eco Water cooler.
> 
> Sick deal, I will be joining the club as soon as mine comes in. Fractal makes such good cases.


That is a good deal, too bad shipping sucks to US lol.


----------



## james_ant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs;13319574*
> That is a good deal, too bad shipping sucks to US lol.


How much? It was 30$ for me to ship within Canada, but I ordered a sound card and a hard drive too.


----------



## stimr2

I paid around $60 dollars to get my R3 shipped from Canada.

Can't wait until June.


----------



## v1p3r

Does the bottom fan have a dust filter attached?

Also, how good are the dust filters for the case? Is your PC dusty?


----------



## stimr2

The bottom fan does have a dust filter and for me the filters work quite well. I clean mine whenever I vacuum my house.


----------



## tamas

Add me as well, just got my fractal today. Wonderful case...definite improvement over my old dusty HAF 932. I own the black pearl version.

Fresh out of the box










Ignore the orange SATA cable I'll get a black one eventually


----------



## UrbanSmooth

And? ^^?


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tamas;13385964*
> Add me as well, just got my fractal today. Wonderful case...definite improvement over my old dusty HAF 932. I own the black pearl version.
> 
> Fresh out of the box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the orange SATA cable I'll get a black one eventually


Always good to see more Fractal owners. Something I just noticed the grommets on tamas' R3 has a different grommet compared to the older ones. I also checked pictures on Newegg's website and the grommets are the same as tamas'. I'm guessing Fractal changed them out because the older ones popped out all the time. It gets really annoying trying to pop them back in.


----------



## kerwoo

I have a question for any AMD experts here. I just purchased a Fractal Design Define R3 to replace a Silverstone TJ05, because I have a Phenom 965 with a OCZ Gladiator Max that was exhausting in to the Power Supply. Was not crazy about this setup.
So my question is should I open one top outlet to let out hot air or just let rear fan do it's job?
Thank-you so much.


----------



## stimr2

I would suggest adding another fan at the top. But if you don't have extra fans just opening the top would help.


----------



## mazenimad

Just got this invitation from fractal design, and it seems theyre launching the arc series on 31st may














cant wait but unfortunately i cant go since its in taiwan


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Check the Fractal Design section of NewEgg sometime in June!


----------



## Faraz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13385975*
> And? ^^?


Read the thread title and the OP. You'll understand.


----------



## [nK]Sharp

Just got a define R3 today to replace my current no case. Just using this as a temporary solution until I get a bigger more badder case.

At least my RIIIE fits though.


----------



## Choopy!

Anybody know if Fractal is planning on bringing the Define Mini to the states any time soon? Maybe when the arc midi/mini are available too?


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Choopy!;13506114*
> Anybody know if Fractal is planning on bringing the Define Mini to the states any time soon? *Maybe when the arc midi/mini are available too?*


Correct. NewEgg will be including new Fractal Design releases in June.


----------



## Choopy!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth;13506301*
> Correct. NewEgg will be including new Fractal Design releases in June.


Many thanks! Rep'd! Was hard to find news about it, mostly people just mentioned the arc.


----------



## UrbanSmooth




----------



## Kvjavs

For the R3, is it possible to remove the 2 doors covering the intake fans at the front without breaking them off completely? Im not talking about the case door, just the doors for the fans, the lil plastic ones.


----------



## trentiles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kvjavs;13527611*
> For the R3, is it possible to remove the 2 doors covering the intake fans at the front without breaking them off completely? Im not talking about the case door, just the doors for the fans, the lil plastic ones.


They are easy to remove. I have already done this for better airflow. All you have to do is remove the front of the case and then where the door connect just use a flathead screwdriver to spread apart the plastic tabs. With the tabs opened just a bit allows you to pull the doors right out.


----------



## stimr2

MNPCTECH just posted a video review on the ARC Midi. Can't wait to get one in my hands.

[ame="



]


----------



## tweaker123

so... anyone have pics of their rigs??? i really want this case, but still have other options.
Also hows the cable management? going to be using a semi modular psu for this case. Is the Clearance between the motherboard and back big enough to hide some cables??
thanks


----------



## All-a-Mort

Hi. I'm building a new PC (first time in fact) based around an i5-2500k and P8P67 Pro board and planned to use a FD case, probably the Define R3. However I've encountered a couple of problems for which someone here might have an answer. I've read the thread thoroughly but not found an answer as such.

1. I was looking to use an Asus or XFX 6950 2gb GPU, but have learnt that the sizes of the reference cards are 11-11.5" in length, which conflicts with the specs from the Fractal Design webpage for the R3. I noted that some posters in this thread have MSI and Sapphire versions of the 6590, but assume these are shorter in length. Has anyone managed to shove an Asus or XFX card in? At the moment seems my only options are to look at other 6590s, switch to Nvidia GPUs, or wait for the Arc (I'm not looking for the oversized Define XL...my current case is that big and I hate it).

2. I noticed at the start of the thread that it was commented that only the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ cooler would fit with Ripjaws X in the case. Is that the only option? I had noted that on Noctua's website they say you can raise the fans on the DH-14, but couldn't tell if the same was true of the U12P. Otherwise I was favouring the Zalman CNPS9900A-LED (cos I like the look of it), but imagine the cooling isn't as good.


----------



## falcon26

Anyone know if Fractal plan to release a side panel with a window in it for the R3 or XL? Also any news on any new cases from fractal?


----------



## falcon26

I sent an email to Fractal about a window. They did reply they are working on one and it should be out sometime around June/July...This would be for both the XL and R3...


----------



## b0z0

Awesome. We need to get this thread going again. I'm about to order my parts so I can have a mini build log for the club.


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tweaker123*


so... anyone have pics of their rigs??? i really want this case, but still have other options.
Also hows the cable management? going to be using a semi modular psu for this case. Is the Clearance between the motherboard and back big enough to hide some cables??
thanks


I recently did a i7-2600K build with a Fractal Design R3 case and posted a full build log here, at http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...-i7-2600k.html with photos, etc.

The cable management is pretty decent; there is sufficient space behind the motherboard plate to hold and route all your cables. Keep in mind that the rubber grommets surrounding the holes are pretty flimpsy and can/will fall or come off when you run the cables through them, but they will fit back in. Just an annoyance, that's all.


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *All-a-Mort*


Hi. I'm building a new PC (first time in fact) based around an i5-2500k and P8P67 Pro board and planned to use a FD case, probably the Define R3. However I've encountered a couple of problems for which someone here might have an answer. I've read the thread thoroughly but not found an answer as such.

1. I was looking to use an Asus or XFX 6950 2gb GPU, but have learnt that the sizes of the reference cards are 11-11.5" in length, which conflicts with the specs from the Fractal Design webpage for the R3. I noted that some posters in this thread have MSI and Sapphire versions of the 6590, but assume these are shorter in length. Has anyone managed to shove an Asus or XFX card in? At the moment seems my only options are to look at other 6590s, switch to Nvidia GPUs, or wait for the Arc (I'm not looking for the oversized Define XL...my current case is that big and I hate it).

2. I noticed at the start of the thread that it was commented that only the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ cooler would fit with Ripjaws X in the case. Is that the only option? I had noted that on Noctua's website they say you can raise the fans on the DH-14, but couldn't tell if the same was true of the U12P. Otherwise I was favouring the Zalman CNPS9900A-LED (cos I like the look of it), but imagine the cooling isn't as good.


FWIW, I'm using a CM 212+ but with Corsair's XMS3 memory modules and there is plenty of space/clearance.


----------



## NguyenAdam

Anyone who is interested in getting one, there is a guy in the forums selling his for a mere $80 shipped.

http://www.overclock.net/full-systems/1005707-5ghz-stable-sandy-bridge-rig-full.html


----------



## phaseshift

so I'm in talks with FTW, we're trying to come up with a plan for turning the Define XL to an inverted atx case if all goes to plan I will start my build.

Parts List:
- i5 2500k
- Asus P8p67 WS Revolution
- 8gb Corsair Dominator
- c300 64gb
- Samsung F3 1tb
- Corsair AX750

The goodies:

- completely modded and REdefined XL
- ek Supreme HF Nickel
- ek Ram Waterblock
- ek 250 Multires
- ek Coolstream 360 XT
- ek GTX 580 Waterblock x2
- ek GTX 580 Backplates
- MCP655 with Bitspower Mod kit
- Bitspower Matte Black Compression fittings
- Bitspower Matte Black 90 and 45 angle rotaries
- bunch of fans

stay tuned! I hope everything goes as planned.


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

In case you haven't seen this, Engadget.com posted some photos of Fractal Design's booth currently on display at Computex 2011 in Taipei, Taiwan.

http://www.engadget.com/2011/06/02/visualized-the-coolest-desktop-chassis-at-computex-literally/

Pretty interesting, encasing their cases in solid block of ICE!


----------



## tats

Anyone have a 580 with an Arctic Cooling Accelero Extreme? I see that the R3 can fit cards up to 290mm and the Accelero is 288mm - does it fit?

Edit - Found out it does! here


----------



## phaseshift

Quote:



Originally Posted by *onedollarinmywallet*


In case you haven't seen this, Engadget.com posted some photos of Fractal Design's booth currently on display at Computex 2011 in Taipei, Taiwan.

http://www.engadget.com/2011/06/02/v...tex-literally/

Pretty interesting, encasing their cases in solid block of ICE!










that is so sexy!


----------



## oskariunit

Don't buy this case. Just warning you how bad the build quality is in fractal designs. Metal is soft, more like plastic than metal. You will have resonating problems from hdd's. Worst case I've ever owned







.


----------



## trentiles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oskariunit;13734799*
> Don't buy this case. Just warning you how bad the build quality is in fractal designs. Metal is soft, more like plastic than metal. You will have resonating problems from hdd's. Worst case I've ever owned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ive had 0 problems with resonance. Also i see no issues with the build quality. The sides seem a little soft but i just think that is due to the sound dampening adding extra weight.


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oskariunit;13734799*
> Don't buy this case. Just warning you how bad the build quality is in fractal designs. Metal is soft, more like plastic than metal. You will have resonating problems from hdd's. Worst case I've ever owned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hmm I actually really like the case and would _almost_ equate its build quality to my 800D.


----------



## squigly1

Hi,

I purchased a computer, still being built, using the R3 case. Was convinced to go with a Corsair H60 for CPU cooling. Now I'm concerned about exhusting air from the case. I believe the radiator for the H60 will be mounted where the rear exhaust fan would normally go. I have them moving the original rear exhasut fan to the front. If the H60 radiator is where the rear exhasut was and the fan is being used to intake air over the rad where will air coming in from the front of the case and air from the GPU be exhausted from? If the answer is to use one of the top fan places for an exhaust fam I may cancel the H60 and go to a cpu heatsink/fan and still be able to use the rear exhaust.

Thanks

BTW: The rest of the computer will comprise of:

Asus P8Z68-V Pro
i5-2500k
GSkill Ripjaws X 1600 2x4GB
Seasonic x-760
MSI Twin Frozr OC GTX 560ti
OCZ Max Iops 120GB Vertex 3
2x WD Green 2TB
ASUS 24x DVD ROM
I'll be overclocking it a bit, maybe to 4.2GHz, or a little higher but my main concern is quiet.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:


> Hi Andrew,
> 
> Good news. The Define Mini should be coming this month to Newegg.
> 
> Cheers,
> E


She will be mine. Oh yes, she will be mine.

As soon as I see it on Newegg, it's mine. ASSUMING it is cheaper than the R3 which it should since it is just a smaller version. I can't wait for that thing.


----------



## b0z0

Has anyone used a non modular PSU with the R3? If so do you have pictures of the cable management?


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0;13785720*
> Has anyone used a non modular PSU with the R3? If so do you have pictures of the cable management?


I would be hesistant unless it is a smaller PSU with limited cables. I will take a picture of my modular in there and even with only one GPU plugged in it looks cramped.


----------



## b0z0

I want to use the Antec high current 900w. Just because the red and black =X


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

Deleted- disregard.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:


> Hi Andrew,
> 
> Nice to hear from you. I believe the cases are on their way to the US.
> In about 4 weeks the cases should be available for you and I from Newegg.
> 
> Cheers,
> Elizabeth


ME: Do you have any idea on price? I know the Define R3 is $100-$110 + shipping, I assume this would be cheaper?
Quote:


> Define Mini cases will be $99.


Just got to hold out. Already have the build ready just need to put it in the case.


----------



## UrbanSmooth

Arc Mini or Sit The Honeymoon Down, I say!

Still looking forward to this nice little case being released.


----------



## sethmo

I just got an XL in today. Going to watercool CPU/2xGPU with a 2x120 and a 3x120 rad. Going to have to do some modding


----------



## b0z0

post pic's


----------



## nagle3092

Can anyone tell me how the hdd cage is held in? Is it screws or rivets? I think I might get an R3 but I'm taking that massive airflow blocker out if I get it.


----------



## Fackinlity

would 80mm fans fit on the side panel and bottom?

bad english


----------



## rpwarwood

Does anyone know if I can fit a Thermalright Silver Arrow in this case without it causing the side panel to bend? Would love to know asap so I can place my order


----------



## Fackinlity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpwarwood;13847589*
> Does anyone know if I can fit a Thermalright Silver Arrow in this case without it causing the side panel to bend? Would love to know asap so I can place my order


Thermalright Silver Arrow seems to be 163mm high and r3 is 207.40mm width

it should fit i think

EDIT: my arctic freezer is 173mm and it fits nicely


----------



## rpwarwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fackinlity;13847861*
> Thermalright Silver Arrow seems to be 163mm high and r3 is 207.40mm width
> 
> it should fit i think
> 
> EDIT: my arctic freezer is 173mm and it fits nicely


Thanks for reply, but according to their website the AF13pro is only 159mm height:

134L x 96W x 159H mm

Its 173mm with "packaging", which I assume is the box it came in :\. Or have you measured it yourself?


----------



## Fackinlity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpwarwood;13847993*
> Thanks for reply, but according to their website the AF13pro is only 159mm height:
> 
> 134L x 96W x 159H mm
> 
> Its 173mm with "packaging", which I assume is the box it came in :\. Or have you measured it yourself?


sry my bad wit packaging


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13841602*
> Can anyone tell me how the hdd cage is held in? Is it screws or rivets? I think I might get an R3 but I'm taking that massive airflow blocker out if I get it.


Can anyone answer this? Also has anyone modded it yet?


----------



## Traches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13864353*
> Can anyone answer this? Also has anyone modded it yet?


Off the top of my head, i think there's a mod somewhere where the guy removed the HDD cage from the R3. Said it was held in by rivets, which were easily drilled out.


----------



## nagle3092

Got any info if it was on here or somewhere else?

NM, I found it burried in here. Thanks.


----------



## phaseshift

yeah its held by rivets very easy to take out if you have a drill, otherwise you can use a needle nose plier <--- must have patience lol


----------



## rpwarwood

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nagle3092*


Got any info if it was on here or somewhere else?

NM, I found it burried in here. Thanks.


How will you be mounting your drives afterwards? Would be good to see a pic if/ when you do it.


----------



## Bill Owen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;12870396*
> Here are some updated pics of my R3.
> 
> I changed out the stock case feet for some MNPCTECH billet aluminum micro case feet. Had to use the smaller ones because of the psu intake/filter. I also had to drill out the holes bigger to install the feet. The stock feet were so cheap and the foam pads came off to easily.


Glad to hear the feet worked out, Look nice too!


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

I'm currently working on getting the XL under water.
Made some mistakes and messed up a few things...
But I ordered some replacement parts, extra tubing and barbs so I should be finished in a few days









I still have a set of "Diamond Knurl" casefeet, might install them too.

I'll get some pics up as soon as I've got everything working


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trentiles;13553516*
> They are easy to remove. I have already done this for better airflow. All you have to do is remove the front of the case and then where the door connect just use a flathead screwdriver to spread apart the plastic tabs. With the tabs opened just a bit allows you to pull the doors right out.


Well that's nice








With my P180 Mini I had to just rip the doors off (not that I'll ever use 'em but still ).

It's been June for 16 days Fractal/Newegg...*looks at watch + taps foot*


----------



## stimr2

Can't wait to see the pictures Bastiaan NL. I plan on going with a custom loop once the Arc Midis are available.

I've finally jumped ship. I got tired of waiting for Bulldozer so I got myself a 2600k. My 940BE will replace my old 8650 in my media pc. I took out the grommets because they kept coming out. Kind of rushed putting everything in because its all going to come out when I get a Arc Midi.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Arc Midi still no where to be found....btw you're build is pretty similar to mine


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Thats a nice upgrade stimr2!
Did you clean that bottom dust filter? If I replace any hardware I usually clean the whole case outside, saves you some time


----------



## phaseshift

be sure to watch my build log, its going to get interesting next week


----------



## Jaromir

Quote:



Originally Posted by *candy_van*


Well that's nice








With my P180 Mini I had to just rip the doors off (not that I'll ever use 'em but still ).

It's been June for 16 days Fractal/Newegg...*looks at watch + taps foot*


Im thinking about doing that with my antec mini aswell ...but i think there is an easier way to remove them, atleast i read that in one of the reviews, but i dont wanna rip them off, cuz Ill probably loose resale value ...thinking about buying arc mini


----------



## hoopem6

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UrbanSmooth*


Correct. NewEgg will be including new Fractal Design releases in June.


So, NewEgg _should_ be receiving the Arc Midi/Mini and Define Mini within the next two weeks?

I sent Fractal an e-mail last week regarding the release dates, but have yet to hear back from them...


----------



## Krahe

Hi, first post, ordered my Define R3 today, went with the titainum


----------



## Bastiaan_NL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;13948841*
> Hi, first post, ordered my Define R3 today, went with the titainum


Welcome to OCN









Thats a nice choise. I cant wait to see a few pictures from your setup


----------



## iamloco724

the arc midi doesnt seem to have a hdd activity light..and if it does its on the top of the case can you confirm if it is or not and is there anything i can buy to put in one of the bays to show hdd activity


----------



## moda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamloco724*


the arc midi doesnt seem to have a hdd activity light..and if it does its on the top of the case can you confirm if it is or not and is there anything i can buy to put in one of the bays to show hdd activity


Given the fact that none of the Fractal cases do as far as i'm aware (at least for the XL and R3) and looking at the Arc photos, i'd say no, it doesn't have an HDD activity led. Dunno why you'd want one anyway, they are pointless, ugly and don't even mean anything.


----------



## iamloco724

Quote:



Originally Posted by *moda*


Given the fact that none of the Fractal cases do as far as i'm aware (at least for the XL and R3) and looking at the Arc photos, i'd say no, it doesn't have an HDD activity led. Dunno why you'd want one anyway, they are pointless, ugly and don't even mean anything.










to me ive always used it to judge when im fully booted..plus it can be the first sign of a problem if something is accessing the drive when it shouldnt


----------



## moda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamloco724*


to me ive always used it to judge when im fully booted..plus it can be the first sign of a problem if something is accessing the drive when it shouldnt


Each to their own. I never had the HDD LED connected to my old P180 and I don't miss it on the XL either, so yea







To me, in this day and age its kind of irrelevant *shrugs*

Shouldn't be too hard to rig your own LED up to your motherboards pins, then you just gotta find a good place to mount it. Otherwise i'm sure somewhere someones done a thirdparty one somewhere, maybe a bay device of some kind?


----------



## Raul-7

I was dead-set on the Arc Midi but when I found out the front bezel was plastic, not aluminum, I died a little inside.


----------



## Vuashke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7;13982059*
> I was dead-set on the Arc Midi but when I found out the front bezel was plastic, not aluminum, I died a little inside.


does it matter? will plastic bezels die faster than aluminium or something?


----------



## Acefire

Personally this case needs more vents in the front panel door. What is the point of 2 front intake fans when the door closes over them?.......


----------



## sonano

Found an album with 76 pictures of the Arc Midi:

http://my.opera.com/myzodo/albums/show.dml?id=7631852

This case seems to be available already at some German and Austrian retailers. Hopefully, that's a sign of availability in North America soon







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acefire;13986634*
> Personally this case needs more vents in the front panel door. What is the point of 2 front intake fans when the door closes over them?.......


The vents on the side and bottom should be sufficient enough. The Define series is supposed to mainly focus on silence, so the door is there to reduce noise.


----------



## Acefire

Wow. Im loving this case. Haven't been able to find one that spectacular before. Nice find.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuashke;13986579*
> does it matter? will plastic bezels die faster than aluminium or something?


Of course it matters. Aluminum > Plastic.


----------



## FarTooJones

Hey guys... Thanks for this thread... Spent 4+ hours going through this so far i think... I'm hoping to be part of the club soon, if i can find an r3 titanium grey stateside. Couple questions.

Some people comment how their psu cables were barely or not quite long enough with all the cable management, and having to buy extensions... What are they called exactly and where do i get them?

Also, anyone find the fractal fans stateside?


----------



## stimr2

I haven't seen any retailers stateside selling their fans yet.

Both my Seasonic and NZXT power supplies had cables that were long enough to route behind the motherboard tray. If you do need to buy extensions I would get these.
NZXT 24 pin extension cable
NZXT 8 pin extension cable

Newegg also has some cheaper ones that are unsleeved and sleeved made by StarTech and Athena.


----------



## FarTooJones

Thanks for the response. For anyone wondering, I just emailed Fractal this morning and had already received a response back in regards to the case fans. There is no ETA on when the fans will be available stateside. Additionally anyone looking for the Titanium Grey version in the US, they will hopefully have more availability in the coming weeks. I'm already thoroughly impressed with their customer service, and can't wait to get my hands on a case.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FarTooJones;14001515*
> Thanks for the response. For anyone wondering, I just emailed Fractal this morning and had already received a response back in regards to the case fans. There is no ETA on when the fans will be available stateside. Additionally anyone looking for the Titanium Grey version in the US, they will hopefully have more availability in the coming weeks. I'm already thoroughly impressed with their customer service, and can't wait to get my hands on a case.


Yes, customer service has been very good. I have received prompt responses every time I emailed them.


----------



## scatology

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs;14002150*
> Yes, customer service has been very good. I have received prompt responses every time I emailed them.


Same thing for me!


----------



## xILukasIx

Yay, just ordered a Define XL Black 

Should be here on thursday, maybe earlier!
Time to get rid of the crappy Antec... -.-

Oh, and I'm also buying a second GTX580 tomorrow, finally I can play over all three screens!
First time I'm going SLI


----------



## sonofsam0981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design;11993936*
> We have found an agreement with Newegg.com to sell our products, and our products should be available with them in late february for the already released products, such as Define R3, Define XL etc. The newly released products, such as Arc Miditower and Define Mini, will be shipped from March and on and available circa early April.


Hello Mr Fractal.
Ive been looking for your cases day and night (since I read the review in Maximum PC a few days again)
Particularly the Midi Tower to replace my LIAN LI PC-A05NB. Where can I find this case?
Thank you!


----------



## Krahe

Got my R3 today, very happy with it, will post some pics once I get it together this w/e.


----------



## xILukasIx

My Define XL arrived today, it was shipped yesterday 

Here are a few early pictures, I'll post better ones when the lighting is better...
Had to use my phones LED-flash as a flash light lol

























8pin and 24pin cable extension ordered already, should be here on friday.
(NZXT Premium Sleeved Cables)

This case is just AWESOME!


----------



## FarTooJones

Nice looking case. Is it just me or does the front door look silver? Maybe it's just the lighting... My r3 should be here friday. Can't wait.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx;14048072*
> My Define XL arrived today, it was shipped yesterday
> 
> Here are a few early pictures, I'll post better ones when the lighting is better...
> Had to use my phones LED-flash as a flash light lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8pin and 24pin cable extension ordered already, should be here on friday.
> (NZXT Premium Sleeved Cables)
> 
> This case is just AWESOME!


----------



## xILukasIx

Ah, that's just the lighting from the windows on the other side of my room 
It's actually dark grey with a brushed look.

There's no need to quote my whole post for that though, your post is directly beneath mine


----------



## stimr2

Looks awesome xILukasIx, definitely look better with the 8/24pin NZXT cable extensions.

Damn it Fractal hurry up and release the Arc Midi.







I have my custom loop all picked out and ready too order. I just need the Arc Midi to put all in.

I'm thinking about getting a 60gb Crucial SDD using Intel's Smart Response Technology since I got a Z68 board. Also considering getting a 6970 to crossfire it with my unlocked 6950.


----------



## sonano

E-mail from Fractal said "2-3 weeks" for the Arc Midi and Mini to be available here in Canada (NCIX).

Can't wait


----------



## iamloco724

hopefully aroudn the same time for u.s.


----------



## stimr2

Damn it it better be available in the US in 2-3 weeks. I don't want to pay $60 for shipping again if I have to buy from NCIX.


----------



## hoth17

Just a quick question about the R3.

Will a psu sit out from the back of the case enough for the motherboard to fit behind it? (Example bellow in spoiler)

Does anyone know where to find a XL besides NCIX?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Tanner's from EVGA.com
Quote:


>


----------



## stimr2

It can't because the psu pretty much touches the motherboard tray.


----------



## xILukasIx

Here's the little update with the cable extensions:

























Still some stuff to do to hide all the cables 
I also got some MDPC sleeve now, I'm going to try it soon!


----------



## Krahe

Nice pics Lukas, still waiting for some parts before transferring my current stuff into the define, have been fiddling with it till parts arrive.


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;14078684*
> Nice pics Lukas, still waiting for some parts before transferring my current stuff into the define, have been fiddling with it till parts arrive.


Why did you remove all the rubber grommets?

I just noticed a nice looking side effect from putting the cathode light above the DVD drive:









I like the look of my floor in this picture, love my EOS 450D


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx;14084750*
> Why did you remove all the rubber grommets?


My new mb is wider so wont use the cable holes, mmm might have to look at cathode light as well


----------



## accoladeZIIS

greetings! so I'm fairly new to these forums but regardless i need some information. I'm sure its in this thread and i tried searching for a while but 80 pages is a lot to wade through and I'm starting to get a headache haha. Also, I don't mean to interrupt anything here but your replies will be appreciated!

I'm going to be purchasing the r3 case and eventually i want to do some water cooling in it. ideally i would have a simple sleek dual 120 or 140 radiator attached to the top vents then the two fans attached to it. i realize however there is not much room between the motherboard and the roof of the case. regardless this radiator shown here

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/im...r_-_Black.html

is only about 3 cm wide and fans are usually 2-2.5 cm wide. my question is (and I apologize for the wall of text) is about 5.5 cm really going to be not enough space between the roof and the motherboard?or am I just missing something here? regardless of weather I can make it fit or not I will be purchasing this case

Krähe, I just also received a 990fxa-ud7, so pumped! its such an awesome mobo! just waiting for dozer to come out now. what RAM are you going to put in yours? I was planning on this patriot viper extreme

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220562


----------



## Krahe

Hi Accolade, I'm a total nub when it comes to water cooling, I just measured mine quickly and it is 3.5cm from the top of the case to the very top of the motherboard, 5.5 will take you below the top of the ram slots. Hopefully someone who has water cooling will come along as I'm sure it has been done, the R3 has 4 holes in the rear which I think are for a water cooling setup, though I have no idea how its setup.









Re ram, will just run my corsair for now, when Bulldozer is released I will look at upgrading, that Patriot ram you linked would look damm good in the UD7 though.


----------



## PRx

The Arc Midi seriously still doesn't have a set ETA yet? They were saying March, then April, then May, then June, and now July?


----------



## Vuashke

fractal cases are pure eye sex, so jealous :3


----------



## N3Xus

These cases are the perfect combination of value, performance, and style.


----------



## deachem

Greetings gentlemen! New Overclocker and now proud Fractal R3 owner here









I've gone through the thread and seen it mentioned a couple of times, but what's the best way to detach the bezel on an R3? I want to swap the power LED out for one with a different color down the line if it's not too difficult.


----------



## HWI

Seriously considering the Define XL case, but a bit worried on loss of cooling capacity coming from a HAF-X. Anyone have any input on that? If I do buy it I would be replacing the front intakes, side intake, and rear exhaust with:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835129057
and adding this 120 in the top front as intake:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835129055
Unsure about replacing the 180mm top exhaust due to very limited 180mm fans available.

Looks wise, the change is a no-brainer, but I do take performance more seriously than looks, so I am having a hard time deciding if switching to the XL is a good idea or not. Any input is appreciated.


----------



## Krahe

Hi Deachem, the front bezel is easily removed, it is held in by plastic probes that you squeeze together and push out, so changing the LED should be straight forward enough.

@ HWI, I removed the top 4 hdd bays and atm have 2x120 front intake, 1x120 bottom intake and the 120 rear exhaust am am getting min-max temps on my amd 975 in prime95 of 23-39 @stock 3.6Ghz. My old Antec case was 33-51, thats with a prolimatech genesis cooler(2x140mm fans) in the R3 while in the antec I had a xiggy tower(1x120mm).

Off hand I think the top bays are removable in the XL, woulda been nice if they had done it for the R3 as well.

Just got mine up and running 2 days ago and I'm more than happy with it, am glad I chose it over some of the more exotic cases that I was considering.


----------



## HWI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;14155568*
> Hi Deachem, the front bezel is easily removed, it is held in by plastic probes that you squeeze together and push out, so changing the LED should be straight forward enough.
> 
> @ HWI, I removed the top 4 hdd bays and atm have 2x120 front intake, 1x120 bottom intake and the 120 rear exhaust am am getting min-max temps on my amd 975 in prime95 of 23-39 @stock 3.6Ghz. My old Antec case was 33-51, thats with a prolimatech genesis cooler(2x140mm fans) in the R3 while in the antec I had a xiggy tower(1x120mm).
> 
> Off hand I think the top bays are removable in the XL, woulda been nice if they had done it for the R3 as well.
> 
> Just got mine up and running 2 days ago and I'm more than happy with it, am glad I chose it over some of the more exotic cases that I was considering.


So the cooling seems to be good then. I would be removing the upper hdd cage, I only have 1 ssd and 3 hdd's, so the 2 lower cages would be enough. I'd also only be running one optical drive, so the other 5.25" bays would be empty, leaving room for that extra front 120mm intake fan. I think I'll be pulling the trigger on this when they come back in stock in Newegg.

I'm most likely going to be getting the R3 for my [email protected] build, so I'll be a new member of the club within a few weeks hopefully.

Edit: The XL is ever so slightly wider than the HAF-X, so hopefully it has no clearance issues with a Thermalright Silver Arrow.


----------



## iamlongtime

I own an R3 nicest looking case available and great cable management, Case layout, 8 Drive bays, 2x 120mm fans and 5x 140mm The list goes on!
and as for:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Acefire;13986634*
> Personally this case needs more vents in the front panel door. What is the point of 2 front intake fans when the door closes over them?.......


There are two vents running top to bottom on both sides of the case for the front intakes and if you are hammering it and it gets warm open the door and vents


----------



## uberCY

Anyone use the define mini? I think it would be a great mATX. Almost went with it over my FT03


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *uberCY*


Anyone use the define mini? I think it would be a great mATX. Almost went with it over my FT03


Still waiting for it to be released. Once it is available I will be getting it immediately.


----------



## stimr2

I emailed Fractal when the Arc Midi would be available in the states. Here's the response I got.

Quote:



Quote:



Hi ******,

Thank you for your interest in Fractal Design products.

I have great news. The Arc Midi cases are on their way to Newegg as we speak.

The award winning cases will suit your water cooling needs well.

I will let you know when the cases are available on their website.

Best,

Elizabeth




I wish I they could of given a date.


----------



## uberCY

Thanks for the info. Guess we'll just wait. Based on the measurements I'm a little concerned its not that much smaller than the R3. Really I'm wondering if it falls in between mini ATX and mATX cases.


----------



## Talos77

Strange that the arc midi has been available here in australia for a week now but not available in US still...

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## Jodiuh

I've been with an R3 for awhile now and love the thing. It needs a few mods, but overall best $100 case IMO.

Sent from my Ghost Armored "SS" TBolt with CM7 via Tapatalk!


----------



## Wildcard36qs

I assume that the Define Mini is coming along with the Arc. It better be. I am getting tired of waiting.
*edit*
Quote:


> Hi Andrew,
> 
> A large container is on its way. The word we are now hearing is 1-2 weeks.
> 
> We are getting really close.
> 
> Can't wait for the baby to come! I have requested a price list, too.
> 
> Best,
> 
> E


----------



## All-a-Mort

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0;13785720*
> Has anyone used a non modular PSU with the R3? If so do you have pictures of the cable management?


Not got any pics available, but I had a bit of a job with cable management with my XFX Black Edition 750w, which is partially modular only. There really isn't much space in the R3. Main problem I had was the 24-pin ATX cable (and for that matter the secondary main board power supply cable)...really hard job getting those to reach.

Has anyone who removed the unused HDD bays got any figures (or even anecdotal evidence) of whether it improves temps much with the better airflow? At the moment I've left the front two fans as the default FDs while putting 120mm Yate Loons on the side and case floor and Scythe 1450 GTs as exhaust, but it's still pretty hot in there with hot ambient temps. Just wondering whether I'm better removing the HDD bay, or adding another intake to the front top to feed into the P/P heatsink set up.


----------



## Ovlazek

Hiya all. I have had an R3 for quite a few months now but I never posted it here.










I am thinking of scrapping that awful Eco and putting in a D14. I'm just concerned with airflow as I have all of the original fan covers in place. In both the top and side panel. Figure I will get enough flow between two intake fans in the front and the single exhaust to oc my 930 to at least 3.8Ghz?


----------



## witnaaay

Hey guys, I have a question regarding the R3. Im thinking of buying one, and am considering cooling with a D14 or going with watercooling(obviously, the case wasnt made with this in mind)

My question is regarding to the two 140mm fan mounts at the top of the case. From pictures, it looks like theres a lot of space up here:










If I buy a 120mm slim rad, do you think I could mount that to the cases top (routing wires behind the rad). The specific one Im looking at is:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=16536

The Rad is 35mm thick (fractal fans are 25mm) so I'll need at least twice the thickness to get it in. The image I posted makes this look possible. Can anyone confirm?

My only other concern is that I am infatuated with the Sabertooth P67 motherboard, which has an 8pin [Edit] and a heatsink up there as well







The width of the rad is 120mm, and the top vents can fit 140mm fans. Could I run the 8pin up through that 20mm gap? Would the R3's internals allow me to do that?

I dont own this case but it is a beauty. Can any of you guys give me some advice with it?

~Cheers.


----------



## Krahe

Ovlazek, you should be fine with a D14 cooling wise, imo the side fan is mainly good for keeping gpu cool and helping maintain positive pressure in the case(less dust) I have my AMD 975 oc'd to 4.1 atm using the prolimatech genesis cpu cooler and airflow seems fine, hottest temp so far has ben 44 degrees which I hit after folding for 24 hours, though ambient temps are cool here atm which helps. Am fitting a Lamptron fan controller this weekend and top/side intake fans so will post some pics and let you know if my temps actually drop.

Witnaay, it is 3.5cm from top of case to top of mb, so rad would be a tight fit, I to would like to see some water cooling set-ups in the R3, it does have holes in the back of the case which I think are for a wc setup, but that could be for one of the closed loop cpu coolers like the H50, not to sure as Ive never used em.


----------



## witnaaay

Hm, so its about 2 cm short at the top for cooling. Maybe I could either mount it externally or mount it in the 35mm space on top (will just fit) and then use smaller 120mm fans mounted over the mb to draw air through it? It'll probably be a while before I build this comp (things are too busy and money too short), but Ill upload a build when I get around to it.


----------



## Ovlazek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witnaaay;14232655*
> Hm, so its about 2 cm short at the top for cooling. Maybe I could either mount it externally or mount it in the 35mm space on top (will just fit) and then use smaller 120mm fans mounted over the mb to draw air through it? It'll probably be a while before I build this comp (things are too busy and money too short), but Ill upload a build when I get around to it.


I'm not sure you could mount that rad to the top. You might be able to fit the rad, but there would be next to no space for fans. _Something_ will be external- either the fans or the rad. Also, with that Rasa kit, you take up all of your 5.25" bays for the res/pump combo. You would not be able to use an internal optical drive. I'm thinking that if you don't have many hdd's you could remove the hdd cage and install a rad in the front.


----------



## Krahe

Pic of my R3's current state


----------



## PRx

Any news on the arc midi's release?


----------



## fedex1993

Thinking about selling my ATCS 840 and going with the fractal design define R3 mid tower but have a couple of questions. I was wondering if someone could please measure from the back of the case to the first rubber grometed hole on the bottom. Trying to see if my PSU is short enough to use the holes at the bottom. Really would appreciated. It doesn't half to be super accurate just a simple eyeball measurement with a ruler or something. Really looking forward to getting this case as it will be a down size but will be better for lan party's instead of my full tower.


----------



## Krahe

Fedex1993, my PSU is 180cm long and just covers the front of the first hole,I still was able to run all my cables bar one sata power that I had to add and couldnt get through. hth


----------



## fedex1993

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KrÃ¤he*


Fedex1993, my PSU is 180cm long and just covers the front of the first hole,I still was able to run all my cables bar one sata power that I had to add and couldnt get through. hth











18 or 180? Haha.


----------



## Siegfried262

What model of the Noiseblocker Multiframes are you using?


----------



## Krahe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fedex1993*


18 or 180? Haha.


Soz, no coffee







180mm

Siegfried262, currently have 1 PK-3 on the case side 2 PK-2 (intake/exhaust) on the top and the M12-p as top front intake, just tried one to test it, will add another to the bottom next week I think. Was using PK-3 & 2 on the cooler and will probarly go back to that as it looks better than the TY-140's and I'm seeing no gain with them.


----------



## Siegfried262

Fascinating.

When I make the move to the Xigmatek Elysium I was considering Noiseblockers for the front intakes (the 1250rpm model) but I think I'll settle for Thermalright X-Silents. (Prior experience with them and they cost half as much as the Noiseblockers







)


----------



## HWI

The XL isn't on Newegg anymore. Looks like I won't be getting a Fractal.


----------



## fox3r

Got this from Newegg, but don't know if the person knows what they are talking about or not (I asked when they would have the Arc Midi on sale):

Quote:



Thank you for contacting Newegg.

Unfortunately, we don't have any information concerning the stock of this item. I do apologize. However, you may submit your suggestion at the following link: http://secure.newegg.com/FeedBack/ShallWeCarry.aspx.

If you have any further questions or concerns, please visit our FAQs page. If you still need assistance, please feel free to email me directly and I will be happy to assist you.


Hopefully this is not true because I really want the Arc Midi case and its getting harder and harder to wait for.


----------



## sonano

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fox3r*


Got this from Newegg, but don't know if the person knows what they are talking about or not (I asked when they would have the Arc Midi on sale):

Hopefully this is not true because I really want the Arc Midi case and its getting harder and harder to wait for.


It's true because they don't always know before they actually have the product in their catalog, unless they ask the supplier themselves. Fractal Design told me a shipment was already on its way to NCIX (Canada) though, and probably Newegg as well.

I can't wait for the Arc either, running my rig case-less until it's released lol.


----------



## PRx

Newegg has removed the XL from the fractal page and listed the r3s as out of stock. Does this mean the arc might finally be coming in.


----------



## All-a-Mort

For UK buyers, QuietPC inform me they have 243 Arc Midi Towers now in stock:

http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/pro.../fd-arc-series

Too late for me though having bought an R3 some months ago. Oh well...


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Guys we know that a shipment is coming. It has been confirmed directly by Fractal several times already. Just gotta be patient. I've been running a crappy case for the last couple months waiting as well. I almost broke down and got a Lian Li, but I will hold out lol.


----------



## IRO-Bot

I broke down and got the Silverstone TJ08-e instead of the arc mini.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Hmm that TJ08 looks great, so does Lian Li new matx, but I want the sound dampening and simple, elegant design of the Define mini.


----------



## Behrouz

What happened to the Fractal Designs page on newegg? Its not even up anymore.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Behrouz*


What happened to the Fractal Designs page on newegg? Its not even up anymore.










They are most likely updating it.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IRO-Bot*


I broke down and got the Silverstone TJ08-e instead of the arc mini.


I broke down and got the Corsair 650D and i'm sure i'll love it moar.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

hope newegg gets that page back up...I was planning on buying an arc midi for an upcoming build.....


----------



## b0z0

Are fractal fans going to be sold in the US? I'm curious how well these fans preform stock? If they are terrible moving air, I may upgrade all the fans.


----------



## Genma

Newegg just updated and no Arc Midi yet but wow everything was sold out immediately!


----------



## witnaaay

Hey guys, regarding my earlier post about water cooling:

This is the buildlog that inspired my question:
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...d.php?t=949898

How do you think he did this?


----------



## fox3r

They have Fractal Design case up for sale at Newegg again, but not Arc yet. I want that ******* case.


----------



## Masao

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KrÃ¤he*


Pic of my R3's current state











Hi Krahe 
Just a quick question, how did you remove the top half of the HD rack?
btw nice build


----------



## Krahe

Hi Masao, I just drilled out the rivets holding it in the case then used a 5' angle grinder to cut it in half just above the black half-way plate holes, subtle as a house-brick lol. I realy must buy a dremel one day.


----------



## PRx

July is almost over and still no arc midi, I might just get a 600t.


----------



## goldbranch

Go go go









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...design&x=0&y=0


----------



## iamloco724

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goldbranch*


Go go go









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...design&x=0&y=0


to what..these are the same cases they have had on there?


----------



## goldbranch

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamloco724*


to what..these are the same cases they have had on there?


Err.. have you bothered clicking the link?


----------



## iamloco724

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goldbranch*


Err.. have you bothered clicking the link?










yes i did thats why i said what i said these are the fractal cases that have been up on newegg nothign new..thats why im asking whats different?


----------



## goldbranch

Don't you see the new ARC and Core Series have been up for sale?











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## iamloco724

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goldbranch*


Don't you see the new ARC and Core Series have been up for sale?











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


im sorry but the link that you posted for me its not showing them..i do see them in the images though

and just now i tried to search for them i tried arc midi and fractal design arc and nothing came up

weird


----------



## iamloco724

can you go into the arc midi tower and post a direct link to that?


----------



## goldbranch

Arc Mini: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811352008
Arc Midi: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811352007
Core 1000: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811352009
Core 3000: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811352010
Define mini: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811352011

And this is newegg.com by the way.


----------



## HWI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamloco724*


im sorry but the link that you posted for me its not showing them..i do see them in the images though

and just now i tried to search for them i tried arc midi and fractal design arc and nothing came up

weird


That's really weird man, all the cases are showing up for me. Maybe you are viewing an old cached version of the site or something?


----------



## iamloco724

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HWI*


That's really weird man, all the cases are showing up for me. Maybe you are viewing an old cached version of the site or something?


thats what im assuming the direct link works fine..sorry about the confusion


----------



## fox3r

So ******* excited. Got my Arc Midi bought and hopefully it will be here soon.


----------



## iamloco724

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fox3r*


So ******* excited. Got my Arc Midi bought and hopefully it will be here soon.


i will be anxiously awaiting user feedback on this case..im having a tough time deciding on that and the corsair carbide 400r which should be arriving on the site soon


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fox3r;14313951*
> So ******* excited. Got my Arc Midi bought and hopefully it will be here soon.


Congratz! I really liked the looks and features of that case!


----------



## sonano

Dang, still waiting here in Canada


----------



## NguyenAdam

Shipping is costly. >.>


----------



## PRx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamloco724;14313996*
> i will be anxiously awaiting user feedback on this case..im having a tough time deciding on that and the corsair carbide 400r which should be arriving on the site soon


The carbide is missing features found in the midi, like the removable HDD bays. I almost jumped ship and got a 600t and I was thankfully turned around. All of the sub $200 corsair cases are overpriced imo.


----------



## Behrouz

Just ordered the ARC MIDI, cant f##$ing wait.


----------



## PRx

Do the fans on the midi only have 3 pin connectors? I want to connect them directly to my psu.


----------



## Genma

Just ordered my Arc Midi! Can't wait!


----------



## nerdybeat

WANT WANT WANT arc midi/core 3000 pics as soon as builds are completed!!! I was actually waiting for one of those cases, then I found an amazing open box deal on my 650D on newegg..

However, my brother is about to build a new rig and debating between the R3/arc/core!!!

Grats to all who purchased =)


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Define Mini has been ordered! SWEEEET!


----------



## 161029

I just found out the Arc and Core cases are on newegg now. I really need to check more often.


----------



## redalert

I was gonna get the ARC Midi if it would of came out back in April, just got tired of my HAF 922 and didnt fell like waiting till July. The Core 1000 is a nice case for $40. I can't wait to see some pics


----------



## Masao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;14304115*
> Hi Masao, I just drilled out the rivets holding it in the case then used a 5' angle grinder to cut it in half just above the black half-way plate holes, subtle as a house-brick lol. I realy must buy a dremel one day.


Lol
I'm guessing that you had replace the rivets after you where done? See that's my problem removing and cutting is isn't such a big deal, I've got the tools for that. I just don't have a rivet gun. Do you think you could screw it back on somehow?


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

It looks like Newegg updated their website over the weekend with the new FD cases that everyone was waiting for. No images uploaded yet, but at least prices are up.

Fractal Design Arc Series Arc Mini (FD-CA-ARC-MINI-BL) Black MicroATX Mini Tower Computer Case

Now: $89.99
$17.99 Shipping

Fractal Design Define series Define Mini (FD-CA-DEF-MINI-BL) Black MicroATX Mini Tower Computer Case

Now: $95.99
$17.99 Shipping

Fractal Design Core Series Core 1000 (FD-CA-CORE-1000-BL) Black MicroATX Mini Tower Computer Case

Now: $39.99
$9.99 Shipping

Fractal Design Arc Midi Tower (FD-CA-ARC-BL) Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Now: $99.99
$18.99 Shipping

Fractal Design Core Series Core 3000 (FD-CA-CORE-3000-BL) Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Now: $75.99
$13.99 Shipping

As for me, I'm waiting for them to offer the R3 front panel USB retrofit kit that has USB 3.0 ports on the front.


----------



## JAM3S121

really want a arc midi case but need ssd...


----------



## stimr2

Just ordered a arc midi. Once, I get the case I'll start ordering my custom loop.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Elizabeth has been great support for Fractal:
Quote:


> Hi Andrew,
> 
> Hope we are not too late. The case just went live on Newegg.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352011
> Let me know if you have any questions.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Elizabeth


----------



## b0z0

Here's how my system sits until my psu, and ram get here Wednesday.


----------



## PRx

Looks like someone screwed up at newegg. The Arc Midi's price just went up to $110 from $100. I luckily bought it when it was $100.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PRx;14342829*
> Looks like someone screwed up at newegg. The Arc Midi's price just went up to $110 from $100. I luckily bought it when it was $100.


They all went up $10. I too got my Arc Mini ordered when it was $89.


----------



## PRx

The midi is already out of stock.


----------



## stimr2

So glad I'm getting mine tomorrow. Its just sitting in the UPS facility waiting until tomorrow. Why can't they just deliver it early. It got here yesterday afternoon. I got my other order early and that was ordered a day later.

Got to order the loop once I get the case. But I don't know when I'm goin to actually put it all together. I have some work to do my car.


----------



## TekJoe

All of these photos were taken on a Samsung Galaxy S2!


----------



## Not A Good Idea

i might be parting with my DEFINE XL


----------



## TekJoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea;14377576*
> i might be parting with my DEFINE XL


Why? To get an R3?


----------



## Not A Good Idea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TekJoe;14377638*
> Why? To get an R3?


actually no, r3 is way too small for my needs. im going with a Thermaltake
Level 10 Extreme. im parting with the XL and my water cooling stuff.


----------



## TekJoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea;14377774*
> actually no, r3 is way too small for my needs. im going with a Thermaltake
> Level 10 Extreme. im parting with the XL and my water cooling stuff.


ergh i hate Thermaltake cases haha


----------



## b0z0

I'm stoked. My ram, and psu come in today. Now only if Prolimatech would release the TUF coolers already.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Out for delivery! Cannot wait!


----------



## PRx

My Arc Midi should be here within the hour.


----------



## TekJoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PRx;14381584*
> My Arc Midi should be here within the hour.


Post pics when you build your rig inside it! cant wait to see one of these built up.


----------



## b0z0

Tekjoe what cooler is that?


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Just got it. Won't be able to build until later, hopefully done tonight, if not tomorrow.










Most of what is going in...choices choices


----------



## stimr2

Finally got my Arc Midi. I'll post pics when I get the parts for my loop and when I have time to build it.


----------



## Behrouz

Got my Arc Midi today and just shoved everything from my old case in there. Will post guts when new PSU gets here, because right now it looks like a spaghetti bomb was dropped inside my case


----------



## PRx

Well I finished installing into the arc midi and I have to say it's much bigger than I expected it to be. Anyway, my build is a bit outdated and not all that great, I also don't like flashy stuff, so I don't know if any of you guys would like to see pics. Also the only real flaws that I see are the lack of a dust filter on the side panel and that the rubber feet on the back of the case come off easily but that's nothing a little glue couldn't fix.

To the poster above me, wow it looks so small in that pic when it's really pretty big for a mid tower.

I also have to thank you guys on the forum for convincing me not to jump the gun and buy a corsair case because I might have missed out on this amazing case.


----------



## Behrouz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PRx;14386781*
> To the poster above me, wow it looks so small in that pic when it's really pretty big for a mid tower.


Compared to the RV-01 it looks like a midget!


----------



## JAM3S121

Most likely going to buy a midi in a few weeks.. hoping to get a side window though


----------



## [-Snake-]

I saw a video review where if you installed a HDD, the white part would actually grind into the cage and leave a white residue. Any confirmation whether it does this or not?





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riiXaNZ7KFk[/ame[/URL]]

Go to 7:50


----------



## PRx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[-Snake-];14387961*
> I saw a video review where if you installed a HDD, the white part would actually grind into the cage and leave a white residue. Any confirmation whether it does this or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go to 7:50


This is true. The drive cages are also a bit rigid, there's quite a bit of friction, so it took a little push to get them in properly. Besides that and what I mentioned earlier, this case is perfect. Well, for what I wanted at least.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Almost done build. LOVE this case.



















The 6950 DCII does fit, but man it is so huge and cannot use my soundcard, so I will be sticking with the 560 TI.

This was my first time at cable management, so it may not be the best. Also, I have an H50 cooler that is going in, just need to get it from home. But the quality of this case is fantastic, it is smaller than my Scout was, yet it definitely is heavier. Also, I do not have issues with HDD. They are not too tight at all. Slight right in and out and no scratching.


----------



## b0z0

Well i got my PSU, ram in yesterday. Now I'm waiting on HDD's, ssd, and one day when prolimatech releases the TUF heatsink. Picking up a 8pin extension today.


----------



## PRx

So far, I only have the three 140mm fans that come with the midi. Two are exhaust (top and back) and one is intake (front). This creates negative pressure within the case and due to some holes at the bottom of the arc midi, along with the side panel opening, dust gets in. Would taking one of the two exhaust fans and putting it on the front as an intake work? Which one? What effect would this have on the cooling and temps?


----------



## fox3r

Just got mine in today and want to switch my system over to it so bad, but I'm waiting on my NZXT Hale90 PSU to get here.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Here are a couple configurations I was messing with.


















As you can see, the 6950 DCUII fits perfectly AND it is supported by the HDD rack which I thought was pretty nice. However I have decided to stay with the 560 TI. I initially had the H50 in the front like the first picture, but it was a tight stretch on the lines, so I moved it to the rear and have it intake from the rear and the top exhaust.


----------



## Kaneda13

Just got mine in today, here's what i came up with:


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13;14407192*
> Just got mine in today, here's what i came up with:


Hmm I may rotate and put my cage back in like you did to help direct airflow


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs;14407264*
> Hmm I may rotate and put my cage back in like you did to help direct airflow


i actually used double sided tape to attach an ssd adapter plate to the back of it so you couldn't see through the holes, then put a bunch of my wiring behind it, worked like a champ.


----------



## Siegfried262

For the Arc Midi, does it look like you can accommodate a tower cpu cooler (Hyper 212+, around that size) with a 140mm fan on the side panel?


----------



## falcon26

Can you remove the lower HD cages in the Define XL?


----------



## Kaneda13

here's my ARC Mini with the new window cut in it.


----------



## dlerch

Holy cow, I just got my Fractal Design Define XL case in today. This thing is gorgeous! I knew it would be big,but as a guy who only ever used mid atx cases, I was blown away by how huge this thing was. It is very sleek and well thought out. Comes with plenty of hardware too. The only thing that sucks is, I gotta order two extra fans from NCIX because newegg only carries cases not fans, bummer. This thing is huge though, very heavy and solid design. Very tough feet on the bottom and plenty of cable management options.

Make sure you have 8 pin and 24 pin extensions though. I'm gonna start the build tonight with my new 2600k, p8p67 deluxe, 16 gb of jigsaw, 1000w psu, twin gtx 260s(soon something better when 500 series drops). Posting pics tomorrow!


----------



## dlerch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26;14460173*
> Can you remove the lower HD cages in the Define XL?


Nope, just the upper one. I just got it today and I was looking at that. I am a little worried because my modular kingwin 1000w psu has military style connections that I am afraid might be a snug fit. Though I really shouldn't be stressed. The case is freaking HUGE. So much room, so sexy, so awesome. It really feels tough.


----------



## b0z0

I'm kind of unhappy with the fans that come with my Define R3. I moved the exhaust as another intake, and they hardly push any air at all. Have any suggestions on decent fans that move plenty air, and aren't horribly loud?


----------



## Siegfried262

Gentle Typhoon 1450 rpm fans are the best I've found in terms of airflow/noise but they're expensive and hard to find.

Otherwise I've had good luck with Thermalright X-Silents, Enermax T.B Silence, low speed Yate Loons, and from what I've read, Nexus 120mm fans. They all move a decent amount of air at a low noise level but I'm not sure they'd win any airflow awards.

These reviews might help you though.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/120-140-fans-roundup.html
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/140mm-fan-roundup.html
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/120mm-fan-roundup-1.html

Also, for anyone who has the Midi, how is the noise quality of the included 140mm fans? I've read conflicting things. Vortez's video review and a video of one of the fans had the character being pretty smooth. But some people have reported they can be clicky.

If they're clicky I'll get X-Silent 140s but I'd rather save some money if I could. Plus I like the look of the Fractal fans.


----------



## Behrouz

update: Finally got around to putting in an H100 and modular PSU.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Behrouz;14480416*
> update: Finally got around to putting in an H100 and modular PSU.
> 
> ~img snip


Looks great.







How are you temps for everything in that case?


----------



## falcon26

Try the Scythe S-Flex series 120MM fans. I have them in my R3, they are dead silent and keep my system nice and cool. I use the 800 RPM model and it works perfect...


----------



## solsamurai

Please excuse the multi posts...would any of you Arc Midi users mind posting pics of your cables behind the m/b? I'm going to build a rig for a friend in that case and want to get an idea of what I can work with. Thanks!


----------



## OKcheesus

Count me in! Here is my very first own computer build, finished like 5 minutes ago. :>

I'll post pictures of the backside as well, gotta tidy it up a bit more, it's a mess and I highly recommend using a modular psu instead of a normal one, even though there is plenty of space behind the motherboard tray, there are way too many wires.

Anyways- hello Overclock.net.


----------



## Volkswagen

Anyone having a hard time taking off the side panels of the Arc Mini? I really have to fight with mines to get them off.


----------



## JoshHuman

^ I have that problem with the midi on one of the panels. It appears one of the corners on the panel needs to be sanded down and it would fit fine.


----------



## dlerch

Just finished my latest build with the XL full tower. What a dream, so much space. So quiet, keeps my system running cool. I'll clean up the fan cables tomorrow. Otherwise lookin pretty clean!










Love my p8p67 deluxe mobo too. This had to be the fastest/ez breezy build I've every tackled.

Next step is SSDs


----------



## OKcheesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;14481773*
> Please excuse the multi posts...would any of you Arc Midi users mind posting pics of your cables behind the m/b? I'm going to build a rig for a friend in that case and want to get an idea of what I can work with. Thanks!


This is not the final version though (but it comes close), my camera batteries are still charging, so I'm going to take a picture of the final one as well. It doesn't look professional or really clean on the backside, but well... I gotta blame the psu for that.


















If the psu had less molex cables, it wouldn't be such a mess, but at least there is enough space and the side panel doesn't even bend.

Greetings


----------



## dominic*

Does anyone know what the rpm,voltage,airflow,db of the fans are ? (Arc midi)


----------



## dlerch

The 120s go to 1000rpm and the 140s go to 600. But rpms isn't everything, the blade design on these fans moves a lot of air without sounding like a vacuum. Currently I am running 4.5gHz on a 2600k with HT enabled with only 3 case fans and a 212+ running one push fan. My cpu temps look fine.


----------



## Kontorstol

So i finally took some pictures of my build and got one uploaded here.


----------



## OKcheesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dominic*;14495198*
> Does anyone know what the rpm,voltage,airflow,db of the fans are ? (Arc midi)


According to the store where I buy my parts, the 140 mm fans have 39 [email protected] +/- ~10% rpm and 9db. Fractal's website says that the 140mm fans that come with the Arc Midi have 1000rpm though.

Greetings,

Ben


----------



## BBEG

I have a couple questions for you guys:

Are there any sound-absorption options for the Arc Midi like there are for the R3 (the fan vent panels, foam lining for case walls, etc.)? Also, aside from the Arc Midi's removable HDD cage, are there any significant differences between the R3 and Arc internally?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG;14499793*
> I have a couple questions for you guys:
> 
> Are there any sound-absorption options for the Arc Midi like there are for the R3 (the fan vent panels, foam lining for case walls, etc.)? Also, aside from the Arc Midi's removable HDD cage, are there any significant differences between the R3 and Arc internally?


i don't have an R3, so i can't answer that one. but with the arc series (i have the mini) there is no sound deadening at all in the case.


----------



## Siegfried262

You'd have to buy and apply your own sound dampening foam.

I'm debating between Modright foam and an Acoustipack Foam kit for when I get mine. The latter would likely be more effective but it's a bit pricey.


----------



## BBEG

Then I'll drop them a line asking if they sell the acoustic foam vent covers. Do the Arc Midi's front fan slots accept 120mm and 140mm fans or just 140's?

I might also pester Fractal to see if they'll make my dream case one day:

Arc Midi dimensions
Arc Midi fan mount locations, all accepting 120mm and 140mm fans (maybe bigger side fan)
Provisions to mount common radiators up top
Fractal fan filters
Fractal vibration absorbing drive mounting
R3 noise absorbing foam and fan mount covers
R3 front panel door (removable of course)
USB 3
Removable/rotatable _and_ hot swappable upper (and lower?) HDD bay cage(s)
Muted, R3-minimalist appearance
Same price point
Room behind mobo for cable management, true modularity with internal air flow and cooling, modernized USB compatibility, and everything is quieter and breathes better (with the ability to emphasize either).

C'mon Fractal, make it happen!


----------



## OKcheesus

The Arc Midi's front fan mounts are only for 140mm fans.


----------



## 161029

^I was considering the Arc Midi and then when I saw that, I just turned away. Now I'm just torn between the FT02 and Define D3 (Silver Arrow).


----------



## Not A Good Idea

well i have decided to keep my XXXL. now i will be modding it once again with a major upgrade in my cooling and internals as well as a new side... stay tuned for pics...


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OKcheesus;14494386*
> This is not the final version though (but it comes close), my camera batteries are still charging, so I'm going to take a picture of the final one as well. It doesn't look professional or really clean on the backside, but well... I gotta blame the psu for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> img ~snip
> 
> If the psu had less molex cables, it wouldn't be such a mess, but at least there is enough space and the side panel doesn't even bend.
> 
> Greetings


Thanks for the pic. Very helpful.


----------



## eGGe

I finally made the desicion and ordered myself a new computer! All the goods in a Titanium Grey Fractal Design R3!! Rest of the parts can be seen in the sig below. Can't wait for the parts to arrive


----------



## BBEG

Would anyone mind taking a picture or three of how the front two fans mount? A review on Vortez.net shows them mounting to the front fascia/bezel/whatever and mentions it uses clips, not screws. Maybe it's possible to mount a 120mm fan there with a little creativity?


----------



## Febreze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13;14461128*
> here's my ARC Mini with the new window cut in it.


I plan on doin a window mod on mine as well. Could you give me the specs of the window size.


----------



## YangerD

I'm considering a Fractal Case. I just love there simple design yet it is stylish and elegant.


----------



## OKcheesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG;14522255*
> Would anyone mind taking a picture or three of how the front two fans mount? A review on Vortez.net shows them mounting to the front fascia/bezel/whatever and mentions it uses clips, not screws. Maybe it's possible to mount a 120mm fan there with a little creativity?












I think it's possible to mount 120 mm fans in there, but you need to be really creative then.

You could use zip ties to mount smaller fans in there for example. ; )

Greetings


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Febreze;14522327*
> I plan on doin a window mod on mine as well. Could you give me the specs of the window size.


sure, i left 1.5" at the top and the back, 4" at the bottom and 6" at the front. that left me with about a 10" x 10" window. i used u channel from mnpctech to clean it up after the cuts.


----------



## BBEG

Thanks OKcheesus, yeah, that looks easy enough to get a 120mm fan on. _Hopefully_ we'll start seeing more 140mm fans coming out in the next year as more cases fitting them come out; 140mm GTs anyone?

So... I can:
Get the R3 and go tool-crazy on the HDD cage and see if I can wire in USB 3;
Get the Arc Midi and apply sound-absorbing foam, make my own ModuVents, close the excess space on the top mesh between the fan and edge of the mesh, and fabricate some kind of front door panel thing;
Wait to see what Fractal plans to come out with in the next year.
My patience is waning.


----------



## Siegfried262

The 140mm fan market isn't as fleshed out as the 120mm market but there are still plenty of options.









That being said, 140mm GTs would be amazing.

Any ideas on how you might soft-mount those front fans on the Midi? When I get the case I'll using Nexus fan mounts for the top, bottom, and side. Looking at those clips it looks like there are screw holes in those frames above the clips.


----------



## Febreze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*


sure, i left 1.5" at the top and the back, 4" at the bottom and 6" at the front. that left me with about a 10" x 10" window. i used u channel from mnpctech to clean it up after the cuts. and i could always use a little rep if you don't mind.


Thanks i apreciate it. It is similar to the specs i planned on cutting out.

+rep


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*


sure, i left 1.5" at the top and the back, 4" at the bottom and 6" at the front. that left me with about a 10" x 10" window. i used u channel from mnpctech to clean it up after the cuts. and i could always use a little rep if you don't mind.


Not supposed to ask for rep.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solsamurai*


Not supposed to ask for rep.










fair enough, removed.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*


fair enough, removed.


Very professional and awesome of you sir!


----------



## BBEG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Siegfried262*


Any ideas on how you might soft-mount those front fans on the Midi? When I get the case I'll using Nexus fan mounts for the top, bottom, and side. Looking at those clips it looks like there are screw holes in those frames above the clips.


Without having the case, I would say you'd need something soft to insulate it from the bezel itself and something else to secure it to the clips.

Option 1: Wrap the four clips in velcro or 3m Dual Lock to thicken them, with the bottom two being thicker than the top two; the fan can rest on the bottom two clips. Securing can be done with zip ties through the velcro/dual lock (remember that one side is stuck to the plastic so it shouldn't go anywhere) or, since the clips aren't wrapped as thick, with a strip of velcro/dual lock on the side of the fan frame.

Option 2: Use a rubber fan isolator/velcro/dual lock/aquarium silicon or whatever to make a standoff from the filter, and two zip ties per clip to hold it up. One zip tie would simply close down on the clip, the other would link with it and through the fan's screw holes. The fan would basically hang from the top two clips.

I'll think of an Option 3 once I get off the phone.


----------



## Siegfried262

Thanks for the suggestions!










Am I wrong in thinking there may be screw holes on those brackets? It's hard to tell with the photos.


----------



## BBEG

Based on this pic:










It looks like there are screw hole guides, but no screw holes. Someone with the case would have to confirm for us.

With a rubber/silicon insulator it's an awesome way to hold 140mm fans, definitely. For those of us who want 120mm fans on there (like GTs to that have enough gusto to pull air through the filter and mesh) it's a pain in the ass.

Part of me thinks you can get them mounted in the fan 'slot' in the case frame itself rather than on the front bezel.










This picture makes me think a couple holes drilled just right and left of the top of that 'slot' would be perfect for the thin zip ties and still leave enough room for a foam strip or two a la the 5.25 bay intake fan. This might depend on how tight a fit the bezel is with the front of the case frame, though.


----------



## mostowizard

I have a TOUGH decision: should I buy an arc midi and use a cm hyper 212+ or should I buy the R3 and a coolit ECO closed loop water cooler?

I can get the R3 and ECO in a bundle price for around the same price as an arc midi, but the deal ends tomorrow. Should I pull the trigger?


----------



## Febreze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mostowizard;14525787*
> I have a TOUGH decision: should I buy an arc midi and use a cm hyper 212+ or should I buy the R3 and a coolit ECO closed loop water cooler?
> 
> I can get the R3 and ECO in a bundle price for around the same price as an arc midi, but the deal ends tomorrow. Should I pull the trigger?


Personal decision I would choose the Arc Midi


----------



## Siegfried262

How is the cable management in the R3?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mostowizard;14525787*
> I have a TOUGH decision: should I buy an arc midi and use a cm hyper 212+ or should I buy the R3 and a coolit ECO closed loop water cooler?
> 
> I can get the R3 and ECO in a bundle price for around the same price as an arc midi, but the deal ends tomorrow. Should I pull the trigger?


i'm currently using the arc mini with the coolit vantage (eco with an lcd display), and it's works great. i've set it up on one of the intake fans on the top (with a 120x38 panaflo fan). though i currently has plans to replace the rad with a 120.2mm, it's still a great setup as it sits.


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;14528002*
> How is the cable management in the R3?


Cable management is decent. Make sure you go with a modular PSU. The only issues I have with this case is the spacing between the motherboard tray, and the case side. It's a tight fit(that's what she said) for all the cables behind the tray. The other issue I have is the hole for the 8pin motherboard power is located in the center and not to the rear, where it's located at on motherboard, causing cables to not seat correctly.


----------



## Siegfried262

I'm debating between the R3 and the Arc Midi.

They both will allow me to do the airflow design I'd like, would cost about the same but the cable management seems a bit better in the Arc and the cpu/vga clearance is better.

With the R3 do the front fan slots use screws or that clip system like the front of the Arc Midi?


----------



## b0z0

The plastic front screws on/off. Then allowing you to snap in a fan. I like the design, because I don't have to pull the HDD bays out nor the front of the case.


----------



## ben1066

Will a corsair H100 fit in the top of an Arc Mini? Will it work well with a gene-z and corsair vengeance low profile ram?


----------



## falcon26

Like other have said the cable management on the R3 is decent, with the exception of the cables behind the motherboard tray. Its a tight fit (Yes that's what she said) Fractal should have made a little more room in that area...


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben1066;14543321*
> Will a corsair H100 fit in the top of an Arc Mini? Will it work well with a gene-z and corsair vengeance low profile ram?


depends on the fans you use with it. the rad is 27mm thick, and stock fans are 25mm thick. I currently has a Coolit Vantage (also a 27mm thick radiator) on the top with 1 38mm fan, and it's not even close to my ram modules.


----------



## ben1066

I wanted to get the h100 cause of the dual rad, i was planning to use stock fans, at least to start with. The main reason I wanted a AIO watercooler was because I figured an air cooler couldn't work too well since it's a small case. So just to make sure, it wont hit my cpu block, low profile vengeance ram or anything else? Also, will I be able to use the side fan?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben1066;14545896*
> I wanted to get the h100 cause of the dual rad, i was planning to use stock fans, at least to start with. The main reason I wanted a AIO watercooler was because I figured an air cooler couldn't work too well since it's a small case. So just to make sure, it wont hit my cpu block, low profile vengeance ram or anything else? Also, will I be able to use the side fan?


No, with the stock fans on a 27mm radiator, your not going to hit anything. When you say side fan, are you referring to the one in the removable side panel, or the back. I see no reason a fan won't fit on the removable side panel, however with any 120.2mm rad on the top, you will not be able to put a fan in the back location (next to the I/O shield).


----------



## Discrucio

Fractal Design Arc Midi - Can you fit 120 mm fans in the front?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Discrucio;14548066*
> Fractal Design Arc Midi - Can you fit 120 mm fans in the front?


check the previous couple of pages, it's talked about and there are photos.


----------



## skaboy607

Hi guys,

I've just bought myself the XL Black Pearl. Check out the mods i'm planning from the link in my sig.

If I can help anyone in any way, lemme know.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607;14548360*
> Hi guys,
> 
> I've just bought myself the XL Black Pearl. Check out the mods i'm planning from the link in my sig.
> 
> If I can help anyone in any way, lemme know.


looks great! if your still looking for the RX360, sidewinders has it in stock. i've ordered lots of stuff from them, actually ordered some more fans from them this morning.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13;14548544*
> looks great! if your still looking for the RX360, sidewinders has it in stock. i've ordered lots of stuff from them, actually ordered some more fans from them this morning.


Afraid not, as much as I tried and wanted to-I just couldn't find space for it in the top of the case. It was just a bit too thick! Prob end up having to add a 240 to the loop later on but I've got plans for where that can go.

Getting MCR320 now but they are nowhere to be found....


----------



## surfbumb

why did newegg get rid of the xl? it just came out recently.


----------



## Phenom_955

Just bought a Black R3, time to ditch this awful Coolermaster tat...


----------



## ben1066

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*


No, with the stock fans on a 27mm radiator, your not going to hit anything. When you say side fan, are you referring to the one in the removable side panel, or the back. I see no reason a fan won't fit on the removable side panel, however with any 120.2mm rad on the top, you will not be able to put a fan in the back location (next to the I/O shield).


Yeah, the sidepanels fan, I figured if I'm losing the rear exhaust it would be wise to use it. Also, would the h100 be better as an intake or an exhaust? I always hear positive pressure is better... Also, what is the FULL height, bottom of the feet to the highest point? Although that isn't really important.

I take it the midi wouldn't have any issues either? What about the R3?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben1066;14555164*
> Yeah, the sidepanels fan, I figured if I'm losing the rear exhaust it would be wise to use it. Also, would the h100 be better as an intake or an exhaust? I always hear positive pressure is better... Also, what is the FULL height, bottom of the feet to the highest point? Although that isn't really important.
> 
> I take it the midi wouldn't have any issues either? What about the R3?


the best placement for the h100 would be as an intake at the top. i'll be ordering a 120x12mm Scythe fan to see if i can fit it in the back as an exhaust, it'll be close. as for the total height, it's just under 17". sorry, i don't have an R3, so i can't answer any questions about that one.


----------



## nel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;14528002*
> How is the cable management in the R3?


If it helps, here are some pics of mine. Spent 2h on it.



















Kinda tight fit - my back panel is a little bent - but you can definitely do something clean with some time and thinking. Biggest issue comes from the fact that I don't have a modular PSU so... but more room on the back would be appreciated.

Hope it helped :3


----------



## Behrouz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nel;14556825*
> If it helps, here are some pics of mine. Spent 2h on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda tight fit - my back panel is a little bent - but you can definitely do something clean with some time and thinking. Biggest issue comes from the fact that I don't have a modular PSU so... but more room on the back would be appreciated.
> 
> Hope it helped :3


Try taping down the molex connections.

Not really related but I despise molex cables.


----------



## Volkswagen

My Arc Mini...Could be better but there is no Window



















I am happy with it- looks like a Corsair H100 will fit so that is on my list and perhaps a fan controller.


----------



## Volkswagen

My Arc Mini...Could be better but there is no Window











I am happy with it- looks like a Corsair H100 will fit so that is on my list and perhaps a fan controller.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volkswagen;14561604*
> My Arc Mini...Could be better but there is no Window
> 
> I am happy with it- looks like a Corsair H100 will fit so that is on my list and perhaps a fan controller.


Here's a little motivation for ya then...


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13;14561818*
> Here's a little motivation for ya then...


I see there's no rear exhaust fan. How's your airflow set up?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;14562185*
> I see there's no rear exhaust fan. How's your airflow set up?


2 intakes at the top, 2 at the front, and 1 at the bottom. can't mount a full size fan in the rear with a rad on the top. i'm waiting for my 120x12mm fan to come in and see if that fits. for now, i can feel quite a bit of wind coming out of the rear 120mm spot even without a fan yet.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13;14562676*
> 2 intakes at the top, 2 at the front, and 1 at the bottom. can't mount a full size fan in the rear with a rad on the top. i'm waiting for my 120x12mm fan to come in and see if that fits. for now, i can feel quite a bit of wind coming out of the rear 120mm spot even without a fan yet.


That's what I thought.







You have a positive pressure setup.







Your temps must be great.


----------



## Kaneda13

at idle:


----------



## solsamurai

I've never owned an nvidia card (for no particular reason







)...is that normal to idle that high?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solsamurai*


I've never owned an nvidia card (for no particular reason







)...is that normal to idle that high?


the GTX470's in particular where hot all the time, so for *this* card that's normal.


----------



## solsamurai

Ha, good to know. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Behrouz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solsamurai*


Looks great.







How are you temps for everything in that case?


In my very unscientific test of playing Crysis 2 and JC2 these were the results. I dont know what exact RPM my fans were spinning at, I just have them all set at the lowest setting my fan controller allows.


----------



## Kaneda13

re-did my system fans while i'm waiting to order my new 120.2 radiator to mod my Coolit Vantage. i've got 3 Panaflo FBA12G12L1BX's (2 at intake at the top and 1 at the bottom), and 3 Scythe SY1225SL12M (2 intake at the front and 1 exhaust at the back). the rad at the top is sitting at a slight angle because of a the 120.1 radiator, but it'll sit flat once i go to the 120.2 radiator. there's enough positive pressure in the case that i can feel air coming out of the vent pci slot covers at the back. got up this am and found the water temps at 27*c, ambient is at 23 1/3*c.


----------



## b0z0

I'm waiting for my 8pin extension then I'll post pictures of my Fractal R3 with SLI 570's.


----------



## Bryst

Is it just me or does anyone else notice that the R3 case has tons of similarity's to the Xigmatek Utgard? Are they basically the same company?


----------



## Phenom_955

Well I learned the hard way that the stock cooling in the R3 isn't adequate. Quite amusing actually, the sky in Battlefield turned into a pattern resembling the US flag when my Geforce 9800GT started to overheat









Anyone want to suggest 140mm fans for this case?


----------



## skaboy607

Im about to get 4 thermalright TY-140's for my xl. Supposedly one of the best 140 mm fan around.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607;14612503*
> Im about to get 4 thermalright TY-140's for my xl. Supposedly one of the best 140 mm fan around.


Indeed they are!







I have three in my case. Two on the Silver Arrow and one as top intake.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenom_955;14610536*
> Well I learned the hard way that the stock cooling in the R3 isn't adequate. Quite amusing actually, the sky in Battlefield turned into a pattern resembling the US flag when my Geforce 9800GT started to overheat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone want to suggest 140mm fans for this case?


Two 120mm fans, only one of which is an intake, and it's not enough for gaming? I'm shocked I tell you. Shocked.









Add intakes to the bottom, the second slot on the front, and the forward positioned top mount. Test the side mount close, with exhaust, and with intake.Swami says you'll find your temps much better.


----------



## Phenom_955

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG;14673680*
> Two 120mm fans, only one of which is an intake, and it's not enough for gaming? I'm shocked I tell you. Shocked.


I kind of expected it to be honest. So much for that "Gladiator" fansink Asus went on about








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG;14673680*
> Add intakes to the bottom, the second slot on the front, and the forward positioned top mount. Test the side mount close, with exhaust, and with intake.Swami says you'll find your temps much better.


I have a top and side 140mm (Yateloon) fitted now, much better. Sold the 9800GT though, going to be using the IGP.


----------



## BBEG

One day I'll have enough extra crap to mod a case to be modular and armored. Modular so I can mount fans to mimic most cases and their airflows, armored for when I OC the hell out of parts while emulating stock cooling solutions. I'll call it my 'boom box'.


----------



## Zerotex

Hi guys,
I want to get a Fractual Define Mini case, but I have some doubts right now.. I dont know if everything I already have will fit inside the case. So, Antec H2O 920 fits in this case? Can I us a Corsair TX950W as well? Can I hide all the cables?

Thanks!!!

GREAT THREAD BY THE WAY!


----------



## stimr2

Finally had some time to work on my water cooling loop. Just doing a 24hr leak test before I finish it up.










The Arc Midi just has enough room for my loop. I also took out the top hdd cage for better air flow.


----------



## pchow05

Nice wtb more pics cause I wanted to upgrade to an arc midi.

and do you know how much voltage the fan controller can handle?


----------



## Kvjavs

If anyone has it, could you take a picture of the bottom of the Arc Mini? I'm considering this case but may need to mod the feet.


----------



## Chunkylad

Add me to the list, got an Arc mini build going. Any recommendation on positive pressure? I am thinking about removing my rear exhaust, adding the case's stock fan controller, and adding a noctua 120mm to the front and bottom. Should I add a second 140mm to the top too or just leave my heatsink fans and stock 140mm as my exhaust?



















What I really do not feel like messing with is this:










Took me 20 minutes to plug that sucker in with the heatsink on.... learned a valuable lesson.


----------



## terence52

Hmm. Can someone do me a favour and give me a top photo of the Arc mini without the top cover? Planning to get one soon but I plan to stuff in a RX360 on top. lol


----------



## Chunkylad

Sorry about the mess in the photo, first start up on it. As you can see, taken apart it is a very flat rectangular surface


















Personally, with the fan mounts on the top, I would look for a 280mm radiator. Would fit perfectly in the slots build for 140mm fans.

Edit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13013/ex-rad-243/Phobya_G-Changer_280mm_Radiator_-_Black_35195.html Perfect for this case. Didn't look around for others, just wanted to get the general idea out. Cooling required is 2x140mm fans which you can still keep on the inside of the case!


----------



## KipH

I love the cases and would love to get one of my own.
I spent a lot of time talking to them at Computex. Please look at my sig and see the pictures. Sorry they are not sorted better. I will find some and post them here later








Enjoy.


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunkylad;14708326*
> Sorry about the mess in the photo, first start up on it. As you can see, taken apart it is a very flat rectangular surface
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, with the fan mounts on the top, I would look for a 280mm radiator. Would fit perfectly in the slots build for 140mm fans.
> 
> Edit: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13013/ex-rad-243/Phobya_G-Changer_280mm_Radiator_-_Black_35195.html Perfect for this case. Didn't look around for others, just wanted to get the general idea out. Cooling required is 2x140mm fans which you can still keep on the inside of the case!


+rep
Thanks bro for the pic. Looks like modding is needed if I wanna place a 360.
Or maybe I could just recycle my RX240 for it. And mount another 240 at the back of the case








Another Rx120 for the front and it will look sick


----------



## Chunkylad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terence52;14708996*
> +rep
> Thanks bro for the pic. Looks like modding is needed if I wanna place a 360.
> Or maybe I could just recycle my RX240 for it. And mount another 240 at the back of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another Rx120 for the front and it will look sick


If I ever, EVER wanted to do watercooling on this rig, I would mod my top so I can just have the radiator sitting where the fan filter is currently. A 280mm would sit in there nicely and be plenty for a CPU/GPU loop. Where the removable HDD bay is perfect for a radiator, but I wouldn't want it intake to be blowing all that hot air back into the case. Have to have that positive pressure with watercooling, impossible to clean dust off the tubes.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Check out what I got randomly in the mail today!










Gotta say I am in love with this company haha.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs;14712829*
> Check out what I got randomly in the mail today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta say I am in love with this company haha.


How did you get that!?!


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunkylad;14710754*
> If I ever, EVER wanted to do watercooling on this rig, I would mod my top so I can just have the radiator sitting where the fan filter is currently. A 280mm would sit in there nicely and be plenty for a CPU/GPU loop. Where the removable HDD bay is perfect for a radiator, but I wouldn't want it intake to be blowing all that hot air back into the case. Have to have that positive pressure with watercooling, impossible to clean dust off the tubes.


That was I was planning. A 280 rad aint cheap here. Thou if I could pick it up second hand I can get it close to half price








Yea. Same thoughts. But I dont like the rad and fans to be offset from the center. Might have to get another radgrill for it. I will see about that when the case arrive in Singapore. Current only the Arc Midi is bought in here. And I am still planning my next move. lol


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs;14712829*
> Check out what I got randomly in the mail today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta say I am in love with this company haha.


















Sorry for double posting.


----------



## stimr2

I really want one of their shirts.

Got my loop running and I have to say I'm really happy with my Arc Midi. I loved my R3 but I love my Arc Midi even more.

Didn't spend too much time on cable management. There's plenty of room but it could use more zip tie locations. The cable management is a lot better then the R3. My side panel on the R3 would bulge out a little. Not on the Arc Midi.









Here's a pic of the finished loop.









There's just enough space between the XSPC RX240 rad and the Corsair Vengeance ram.









Was going to go with a EK block but got the Koolance 370 instead.


----------



## Chunkylad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;14713576*
> I really want one of their shirts.
> 
> Got my loop running and I have to say I'm really happy with my Arc Midi. I loved my R3 but I love my Arc Midi even more.
> 
> Didn't spend too much time on cable management. There's plenty of room but it could use more zip tie locations. The cable management is a lot better then the R3. My side panel on the R3 would bulge out a little. Not on the Arc Midi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of the finished loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's just enough space between the XSPC RX240 rad and the Corsair Vengeance ram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was going to go with a EK block but got the Koolance 370 instead.


That looks exactly the same as the Mini... 2 5.25's, removable HDD bay, same size fans in all the same locations... never realized how EXACTLY THE SAME Fractal made them...


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Yea they are exact same layout except the ARC has 2 top fans. And the ARC came with 3 fans while the Define Mini only comes with 2 120mm.

As for the shirt, I had been in contact with Fractal for 6 months or so going back and forth, guess I said or did something right? LOL I dunno.


----------



## BBEG

Arc Mini's got 2x 120mm fans on front, Midi's got 2x 140mm. Mini only fits 120mm for exhaust and bottom fans, Midi accepts 120mm or 140mm for both places. Both accept 120mm or 140mm for top and side fans. Midi has one extra fan slot on top. Both have removable HDD bay (this feature should be mandatory on new cases). Midi has more room behind the motherboard tray for cable management (also needs to be a new trend).


----------



## vhaarr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;14713576*
> There's just enough space between the XSPC RX240 rad and the Corsair Vengeance ram.


Wow, thanks for that image man







One thing, can you see the attached image to this post and tell me - how many cm/inches from the radiator all the way to the front of the case?

Can you take a ruler and stick it in the 5.25" bays and measure to the edge?
Basically, what is the maximum length 5.25" item that can be put there with a radiator up top


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhaarr;14717402*
> Wow, thanks for that image man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing, can you see the attached image to this post and tell me - how many cm/inches from the radiator all the way to the front of the case?
> 
> Can you take a ruler and stick it in the 5.25" bays and measure to the edge?
> Basically, what is the maximum length 5.25" item that can be put there with a radiator up top


There's about 7.5" of space between the rad and the front of the bezel. I could fit my optical drive into the top slot but getting to the cables would be difficult.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Hi!

My brother is gonna go for the said case, and I just have a quick question on how I wanted the airflow to be:










So is this a good setup?









The top HDD cage will be removed.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## vhaarr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;14721019*
> There's about 7.5" of space between the rad and the front of the bezel. I could fit my optical drive into the top slot but getting to the cables would be difficult.


Excellent, thank you!


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser;14724792*
> Hi!
> 
> My brother is gonna go for the said case, and I just have a quick question on how I wanted the airflow to be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is this a good setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top HDD cage will be removed.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I think the setup would be great. It's just crazy how many fans you can put in the Arc Midi. I wish there was a filter for the 180mm fan location. I did buy a Silverstone 180mm fan filter. It doesn't fit flush but still better then nothing.


----------



## pchow05

what kind of temps are you getting stimr2! thanks cpu/gpu load and idle


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchow05;14725660*
> what kind of temps are you getting stimr2! thanks cpu/gpu load and idle


I had a H70 before and I was getting 76C on my hottest core. Idle I was at 38C on my coolest core and 42C on my hottest. My ambient temps are around 27C. My 2600k isn't a great OCer and is voltage hungry. My clock speed was at 4.3ghz w/HT @ 1.350volts.

With my new loop I idle around 34C on the coolest and 37C on the hottest. On load the hottest core would hit 70C. Its clocked at 4.5ghz w/HT at 1.404volts w. With the side panel off I've seen the coolest core go down to 31C.

Can't wait to see what temps I get in the winter. Its just so hot and humid here. I really wish I had a better OCing 2600K. But can't complain my old Phenom II 940BE couldn't touch it.

My GPU temps haven't changed too much from my R3 to my Arc Midi. It idles around 44C and on load around 68C.


----------



## Chunkylad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser;14724792*
> Hi!
> 
> My brother is gonna go for the said case, and I just have a quick question on how I wanted the airflow to be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is this a good setup?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top HDD cage will be removed.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Personally, I would remove the farthest right top exhaust, I feel it would just suck the cold air out before it even gets to the components, other than that it is pretty much what I am going to go for.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chunkylad;14726281*
> personally, i would remove the farthest right top exhaust, i feel it would just suck the cold air out before it even gets to the components, other than that it is pretty much what i am going to go for.


+1


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser*


Hi!

My brother is gonna go for the said case, and I just have a quick question on how I wanted the airflow to be:










So is this a good setup?









The top HDD cage will be removed.

Thanks in advance!


Won't that setup get a lot of dust build up due to the negative pressure. Just a thought.


----------



## Chunkylad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skaboy607*


Won't that setup get a lot of dust build up due to the negative pressure. Just a thought.


It would be about even unless he removes that 1 exhaust. Then it would be positive.


----------



## BBEG

Much of the issues about air flowing into the case from gaps and seams can be solved by closing the gaps and seems. Electrical tape covering vents and whatnot might make for a fun experiment.

Here's a mental exercise: how do you think a case will do if the only air flow into the case comes through filters, with fans exhausting more air from the case than pulling air into it?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG;14736050*
> Much of the issues about air flowing into the case from gaps and seams can be solved by closing the gaps and seems. Electrical tape covering vents and whatnot might make for a fun experiment.
> 
> Here's a mental exercise: how do you think a case will do if the only air flow into the case comes through filters, with fans exhausting more air from the case than pulling air into it?


Interesting idea...you should post it here.


----------



## KipH

You probably want a slight over pressure in that case. The right fan can be removed as suggested. And see if the floor needs a second fan or block up any holes there.

The only problem I see is: ORANGE! Why


----------



## iamlongtime

I want to watercool my R3 but it's very tight for space. I saw someone with most of the HDD cage removed and it gave me this idea:










The drive bay would have to be removable to get the sleds out, SSD could be attatched to the steal plate with the res/pump or hidden behind the MOBO plate. Think it would work?


----------



## Florida_Dan

Hi everyone!

First of all this is a fantastic thread, there are some really sharp looking builds in here.

I know that I'm going to be a Fractal Design case owner, my current dilemma though is which one. I've started the slow process of gathering parts for my first build in about 8 years. Yeah, I really kept my last machine that long; though I did cheat and get laptop somewhere in there for walk-around use. Anyway, the current build I'm looking at is listed in my signature (or at least it should be if I set that all up right.)

So, my dilemma, XL or R3....

It seems that the R3 is very popular around here, and by many accounts I've read, it's got less air-flow issues than the XL. On the other hand, the R3 has limited 5.25" drive bay space and only two USB ports on the front. Those two things are issues for the following reasons:

1. I can't find a CD/DVD/BD combo drive that seems worth the money at the moment, and eventually I'd like to be able to add another drive that at least reads BD, writing them is a whole different ball of wax now.
2. I can of course add USB ports in a 5.25" drive bay and even potentially get a couple of USB 3.0 up front that way. However that bumps headlong into #1.

So I started looking at the XL. It is certainly big. Fully 4" taller and longer than anything I've got now. That concerns me a little. Though what really gets me are the things that I've read about the air flow and "dead air" over the CPU. The cure for this seems to be a 120 mm fan in three of the four ODD bays. That of course rather kills my whole purpose for looking at this model in the first place.

Yes, I have given thought to one of those massive, third-party CPU coolers, and a I saw a cool idea in this thread for attaching fans to the inside of the HDD cages. I just don't have a feel for how all this stuff balances.

Any thoughts or opinions would be most welcome!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## jeffblute

Hey welcome to Overclocker.net's forum Dan.
I read your post and have a few questions to ask you, 
1. Are you building this as a gaming computer or some other needs?
2. Do you wish to go water cooling or just air cooling?
3. Do you think you will be upgrading your computer down the line? (expanding)
4. Do you travel alot? (Lan partys, ect ect)

Both cases are great for their uses, I personally went with the XL because I LOVE having the extra room to play around with in a case and enjoy knowing I won't have to squeeze my hands between anything when i go redoing wires or when I add my water cooling loop here in the next month or so.

If you are worried about CPU cooling and using up room in your 5.25 bays you could always get one of the Corsair Hydro series coolers. I am using one right now in the XL and it helps keep it cooler quite a bit. One suggestion i would do for any graphic cards (mainly xfire or SLI) add another fan behind the HDD cage inside the case.

I hope this helped you with any questions or concerns on choosing a setup!


----------



## GJF47

Can anyone tell me how much room there is behind the side panel to hide cables in the XL please? I'm considering it as my next case but the 600t I am currently using has loads of room so it needs to be roughly the same or more really. Thanks.


----------



## skaboy607

From the mobo panel to side is ~23mm as you have take into account the sound proofing material.


----------



## Mousie_Grr

Hi there Fractal Design fans








After much deliberation I decided on the Arc Midi and I'm so glad I did. I'm incredibly impressed by how much better it is at cooling than my previous cheap generic case. When I bought the previous case I didn't understand the need for proper gaming cases but when my GPU was hitting 80 at idle and 90 when playing games I decided I needed to look into it to have a healthier system.

This is a speedfan readout for my previous case at idle:









This is the Arc Midi at idle:









(I say idle for that last one but it's actually 5 minutes after a crash and reboot after playing Deus Ex: HR for 8 hours)

The temps while playing games don't even hit the idle temps of the previous case so I am one happy bunny









I have some questions for other owners. I had problems with the screws on the HDD bays scraping on the top of the HDD underneath. Also for the bottom HDD cage the screws holding the plastic bit on top are so long they hit any HDD I put in the top bay. Does anyone else have these problems or have I assembled something wrong?

I don't have any inside shots of my rig but here it is under the desk while in use, can I join the club? I promise an inside shot the moment I can get my fiance off Deus Ex


----------



## GJF47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607;14761610*
> From the mobo panel to side is ~23mm as you have take into account the sound proofing material.


Thanks for the reply, seems like there is plenty of room for cables. +rep for you


----------



## stimr2

Mousie_Grr you aren't the only one with the hdd cage plastic rail screws scrapping the hdds. Because of that I removed the plastic rails. I wasn't going to use the top cage anyway. Another flaw on the some Arc Midis is the expansion slots screw holes not lining up properly with cards. Also the flimsy mess grills.

I love the Arc Midi and Fractal Design Cases. But I think we should contact Fractal Design about these issues.


----------



## Florida_Dan

Jeff, thanks for response. My answers to your questions are below.

I keep weebeling between the two cases, but the swings are becoming less dramatic. Part of doubt has to do with not being sure about exactly how I'm going to use this build. This will be my fourth or fifth build, but really the first where I've got the ability to build the machine that I want rather than being heavily constrained by outside or artificial influences. I can't afford to go crazy or make any really bad decisions (another part of my doubt), but as long as I take it easy I'll wind up with a nice machine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute;14760349*
> Hey welcome to Overclocker.net's forum Dan.
> I read your post and have a few questions to ask you,
> 1. Are you building this as a gaming computer or some other needs?


It will probably be mostly "other needs". I have need for a fair amount of storage for pictures and video (right now I'm pushing 4 gb.) That's compounded by the desire to rip a relatively healthy DVD collection to ultimately go on some sort of NAS. For work and pleasure, I also tend to keep a number of VM environments around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute;14760349*
> 2. Do you wish to go water cooling or just air cooling?


I'm starting with air cooling, but have always wanted to try a water cooled machine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute;14760349*
> 3. Do you think you will be upgrading your computer down the line? (expanding)


LOL, yes.







There's certainly going to be additional storage. I really don't think I'm going to survive with on board video for that long, but I might, who knows. Sooner or later I'll probably wind up with a dedicated gpu. The real question is does that come before or after the SSD? Then there's that whole question about water cooling....

All that argues strongly for the XL. Particularly given that I have big hands and always wind up cussing a blue streak when working inside a mid-tower.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute;14760349*
> 4. Do you travel alot? (Lan partys, ect ect)


Given what these two cases weigh, empty, it wouldn't be good to be me if I did. Fortunately, I don't. I might be lucky if I can pull this thing out from under the desk to plug in another cable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute;14760349*
> If you are worried about CPU cooling and using up room in your 5.25 bays you could always get one of the Corsair Hydro series coolers.


I've thought about this. I don't know much about these things. Have you got the rad where the back exhaust fan goes or down in the "basement"?


----------



## Florida_Dan

OK, so I did it. I'm the future owner (when Mr. UPS-man delivers it) of a Define XL. That case just had more things that I wanted. If I ultimately think I want a PC that I can have in the living room as a media center, I'll think about another case at the time (hopefully a Fractal Designs, I just like the way their stuff looks). For the time being, I'm content knowing that a very heavy box is going to be coming my way in the next few days.

I hope newegg has the sense to pack everything separately.


----------



## Jodiuh

Finally tore into this thing.









Here's a link to the slideshow.

1. Cut fan grill from rear exhaust.
2. Cut fan grill from PSU intake.
3. Cut 6 HDD bays.

And yes, it definitely helped temps. Also worth noting that the included fan controller doesn't seem to spin my SFLEX' @ the full 1200RPM. They're definitely not pushing as much air as they do on a molex/mobo connector.


----------



## BBEG

Awesome before/after, Jodiuh. Did you happen to measure temps so we can have a before/after for those too?


----------



## ekg84

Does anyone know if Core 1000 can fit second 120mm fan in the front panel? it looks like it would to me with a minor modification, but maybe someone who owns it can confirm? also how is the metal quality?


----------



## psychrage

Here's my Arc Midi. Not done with it. Need some fittings and what not. Also, Will be mounting res tube attached to pump on the pci slot, as its mocked up in the picture.

Also need to make some brackets to push the bottom radiator forward a little bit so I can put the 2nd fan on there.


----------



## vhaarr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *psychrage*


Here's my Arc Midi. Not done with it. Need some fittings and what not. Also, Will be mounting res tube attached to pump on the pci slot, as its mocked up in the picture.


What's that 80mm (?) fan doing there resting on top of the video card?









Looks awesome though! Can the case fit a 120mm at the front bottom if you don't have the 240mm thin radiator there?


----------



## Rebelord

Looks like he has it for some extra NB cooling.


----------



## psychrage

Yes, that 80mm is extra cooling for the northbridge.

A 120 would fit fine. You just have to take the rivets out holding the bottom hdd cage in place. And do some more work to get the top cage to hold in place hanging from the 5 1/4" bays.

I'd also recommend cutting a blow hole, as there is not one in the "front" spot.

You could even fit a 140mm down there if you wanted to.


----------



## Jodiuh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG;14785983*
> Awesome before/after, Jodiuh. Did you happen to measure temps so we can have a before/after for those too?


Sadly I did not. But I couldn't get 4Ghz stable before the mod. Made it through an entire LAN after the mod. I do remember GPU temps though.

Before: 86 C
After: 81 C

EVGA GTX 560 Ti
950Mhz
1.100 V


----------



## BBEG

Any numbers are good, thanks. I'm still surprised the card is that high though. Does the 560 Ti normally run hot? (Wonder if I might be getting spoiled by my card & cooler...)


----------



## Jodiuh

EVGA's 560 Ti uses the reference design with a smaller heatsink and single fan. I run it on auto and it's overvolted a bit...doesn't get as hot @ 900Mhz/1.000V. I wanted the MSI or Gigabyte SOC, but Newegg had a sale week one for $220 shipped w/ 2 free games so I jumped. Here's a shot of my temps after playing BC2 for a couple hours. Got up to 83C this time. The aux temp's from the board and would read 60C before the mod. IIRC, CPU's would hit closer to 75/78 too. I probably would never have done the mod had I got a nice 760 that could do 4 @ 1.25.







But at least it's all stable now.


----------



## skaboy607

What does everyone think about using the bottom inlet fan as an exhaust fan. Some mod's that I am doing would make this is a useful change.

I am worried about there not be good airflow because of the front of the case being blocked.

On a side note, has anyone fitted third party fans to the front fan caddy. I bought two Thermalright x-silents to go in there and they just do not fit! If you kinda jam em in there, then the caddy doesnt go on to the case again. Very annoying!


----------



## pchow05

That would not be a good idea at all. You would be sucking the fresh air from the front 2 fans out the bottom and it wouldnt get to your gpu.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pchow05;14820391*
> That would not be a good idea at all. You would be sucking the fresh air from the front 2 fans out the bottom and it wouldnt get to your gpu.


That doesn't matter. GPU will be watercooled. and the false shelf seperates that bottom fan from the one above it which would cool the other comps. I have a 240 rad underneath false shelf and looking to exhaust that heat using bottom intake as exhaust.


----------



## jeffblute

you know I swore I joined this group, always looking around for new build ideas and I looked at the front page and didn't see my name. Quick add me


----------



## FiveEYZ

i would love to be added to the list


----------



## eGGe

Finally, I got my new rig! I have played around with it now for 3-4 days, and very pleased with this R3 case!

I have the original fans, connected to the fancontroller, and in my ears they are very quiet (I have the fans at the lowest rpm). If turned all the way to the max, yes, they can be heard, but it doesn't bug me.

Temps are pretty good as well. The CPU is around 27-31 degrees celsius at idle. When running prime95 the cores are around 50-53 degrees celsius. My GPU idles at 31 degrees while running furmark it topped at 77 degrees. When gaming CSS, CPU maxed at 45 degrees and GPU at 53 degrees.

The R3 is a very good case!!


----------



## Chobbit

Does anyone know if a GTX 590 at 11" would fit in a arc mini case when removing the top HDD cages?

Thinking about getting this case with a: 
Maximus Gene-Z motherboard, 
2500k, 
h100 
and a GTX 590, and probably keeping my current PSU and RAM.

Does this sound good and will it all fit?

Thanks


----------



## BumSquad Jack

interested in the arc midi because my mobo has a usb 3.0 port. I'm Not putting anything special in it really. Just my media comp(Inspiron)

Around black friday I plan on getting a 
hd6850(just to watch movies etc.)
Fatal1ty sound card(Music)
500w PSU
Memory Card Reader

My 690(gaming build) is all blue'd out so was thinking of putting red LED fans in it for a little extra taste. How do they look in this case? Thanks in advance


----------



## jaynoon

Anyone have any idea how long the Define Mini has been out of stock at Newegg? I just stumbled across Fractal Design and the Define Mini, but it seems like the perfect case for me.

Only problem is Newegg is the only US distributor and they're all sold out.

Wondering if I should give in and buy something else or hold out for the FD Case.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaynoon;14843498*
> Anyone have any idea how long the Define Mini has been out of stock at Newegg? I just stumbled across Fractal Design and the Define Mini, but it seems like the perfect case for me.
> 
> Only problem is Newegg is the only US distributor and they're all sold out.
> 
> Wondering if I should give in and buy something else or hold out for the FD Case.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352008

Seems to be instock...


----------



## jaynoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute;14844901*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352008
> 
> Seems to be instock...


That's the Arc Mini, rather than the Define Mini, which can be seen here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352011


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit;14840633*
> Does anyone know if a GTX 590 at 11" would fit in a arc mini case when removing the top HDD cages?
> 
> Thinking about getting this case with a:
> Maximus Gene-Z motherboard,
> 2500k,
> h100
> and a GTX 590, and probably keeping my current PSU and RAM.
> 
> Does this sound good and will it all fit?
> 
> Thanks


You would have no problem getting everything in. Fractal states the Arc Midi can accommodate a card up to 10.24" with the HDD and 15.75" w/o the cage.

Chunkylad recent posted pics of his Arc Mini. Check it out. http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/838683-fractal-design-case-club-70.html#post14705687
Quote:


> Anyone have any idea how long the Define Mini has been out of stock at Newegg? I just stumbled across Fractal Design and the Define Mini, but it seems like the perfect case for me.
> 
> Only problem is Newegg is the only US distributor and they're all sold out.
> 
> Wondering if I should give in and buy something else or hold out for the FD Case.


I would contact Fractal and ask when they're going to send another shipment. Fractal is usually pretty quick with responses.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaynoon;14846354*
> That's the Arc Mini, rather than the Define Mini, which can be seen here:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352011


Oops. Lol shows how awake I am right now : (


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stimr2*


You would have no problem getting everything in. Fractal states the Arc Midi can accommodate a card up to 10.24" with the HDD and 15.75" w/o the cage.

Chunkylad recent posted pics of his Arc Mini. Check it out. http://www.overclock.net/computer-ca...l#post14705687


Thank you for this +1, really looks like an excellent case. Is it a pretty light case?

Looking through this thread I see people fitting an RX240 with push fans so I'm sure a H100 would fit, but what about in push pull? Can you fit fans under the lid like you can on the CM690 I have now?


----------



## stimr2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chobbit*


Looking through this thread I see people fitting an RX240 with push fans so I'm sure a H100 would fit, but what about in push pull? Can you fit fans under the lid like you can on the CM690 I have now?


I'm not exactly sure of the size restraints on the Arc Mini. However this is what Fractal stated on their page about the Arc Mini. 
Quote:



*The component support in the case when using radiator in top is depending on the thickness of the radiator. See info below. When having a 2x120mm radiator mounted in top, you cannot use the rear 120mm fan slot at the same time.
- Up to 40mm radiator thickness: Support for most water CPU coolers and larger memory modules.
- Up to 50mm radiator thickness: Support for most water CPU coolers and standard memory modules with a height of max 40mm.
- Up to 70mm radiator thickness: Support for only certain water CPU coolers, depending on the water inlet and outlet. Supports standard memory modules with a height of max 40mm.


A RX240 rad is 63mm thick and the H100 rad is 27mm thick. So you should be able to install a H100 with push/pull. You won't be able to place fans under the top cover. It sits flush with the top of the case.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

I just got my Core 1000. For a $40 case, it is very nice. Definitely not as quality as my Define Mini (thinner metal), but it is great for the budget. It does not have the CPU cut out and the PSU is on the top, and there is no cable management, but that is OK for me as this is just an office build with nothing special in it. I do like the way the HDD mounts, although you can only hold 2 max (+1 if use 5.25 adapter). All in all a very nice and pleasing to look at case for the office.


----------



## Odracir

Hi guys
I'm going to buy a fractal design case but I can't decide on which( so many fine choices







)
So to make my mind I have to ask, can the arc mini take a 360mm radiator in the top with some small modifications or is it a no go?
If thats the case then gonna have to go with the define mini


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Join me with the Define Mini! It is the sexiest case around. I do kinda like being like the only one around having one.


----------



## Slow*Jim

You're not the only one anymore!









Got a new kid in town


----------



## Odracir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs;14888670*
> Join me with the Define Mini! It is the sexiest case around. I do kinda like being like the only one around having one.


Well that's my doubt beauty or practicality









But I really want to make a small loop and use like 3 slow fans to make it real quiet


----------



## psychrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Odracir*


Hi guys
I'm going to buy a fractal design case but I can't decide on which( so many fine choices







)
So to make my mind I have to ask, can the arc mini take a 360mm radiator in the top with some small modifications or is it a no go?
If thats the case then gonna have to go with the define mini










I know my Arc Midi will take a 360 up top with some minimal modifications. Not sure on the Arc Mini though.
It looks like the Arc Mini does not have a provision for a third top fan at the front. You'd give up a drive bay by using it in conjunction with a 3x120 rad however.
I just went with a XSPC RX240, its perfect and quite sexy in this case.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *psychrage*


I know my Arc Midi will take a 360 up top with some minimal modifications. Not sure on the Arc Mini though.
It looks like the Arc Mini does not have a provision for a third top fan at the front. You'd give up a drive bay by using it in conjunction with a 3x120 rad however.
I just went with a XSPC RX240, its perfect and quite sexy in this case.


Yea the Arc Mini will take a 240, which I think would be great for your purposes. The Define Mini won't be able to do anything unless you mod it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Slow*Jim*


You're not the only one anymore!









Got a new kid in town










And welcome!


----------



## Slow*Jim

Thanks! Kinda wish I would've gotten the R3 in white, since there really isn't much of a size difference between that and the Define Mini... oh well. No USB3.0 was a deal killer


----------



## Florida_Dan

Well, it's official, my stuff got here late last week and I spent some time yesterday putting it together.

This is my first build in a Fractal case, but I can say with certainty that it won't be last! I have zero cuts on my hands and there was almost no cussing during the time I spent putting all the components together.

My biggest issue was that I didn't listen to the reviews saying I should order an extender for the 8-pin mobo connecter. I thought I could just pop around to the corner and pick one up at CompUSA (yeah, they were resurrected here). I mean, they have plenty of cases on their wall that are the same size as the XL and they sell the same power supplies, so of course they must have all the bits and bobs to put it all together, right? I pity the fool who buys a full tower case and a power supply from them thinking that they're "good to go".

OK, I guess that's unfair, I got the thing together, but I had to pass the 8-pin cable through the main compartment instead of behind the tray. It looks hideous, but it works until the extension I ordered (yesterday) from Newegg arrives.

All in all, I'm overall very happy with the case, and it's contents







.

A few thoughts:

I think I might have been even more happy with the "titanium" front. The black is VERY black.though when I put it under the desk I might feel differently.
I read a lot about how heavy this thing is. OK, it's not light, but it doesn't make me think twice about moving it.
I need to find a way of further cushioning my HDD (WD Caviar black), a couple of times when there has been a lot of i/o (read Windows updates), it's vibrated the case enough for that vibration to be transmitted to the filing cabinet that the case is currently sitting on (not it's permanent home, but a more convenient temporary one until I get all the kinks worked out.)
I'm pretty sure that I'm going to an after-market CPU cooler much sooner than I thought. My temps aren't bad under "normal" usage, but I've spiked into the 60's under pretty mild conditions. Keep in mind that ambient is probably a little higher (potentially as bad as 26 - 27 C, though I'm guessing, I haven't measured.)
When I have that cable issue dealt with, I'll likely post a few pictures.


----------



## Florida_Dan

Whoops, I forgot to add that I also read a fair amount about how much of a pain the front fan unit is to take off or put back on....

Well, it officially is, until I learned the trick.

The pivot tabs on the right side as well as the locking tabs on the left side are both exposed when the respective panels are off the case:

Taking the panel off is as easy as "helping" the tabs with your thumb, as you move the corresponding lever on the front. When both tabs have been loosened a bit, the panel comes off easily. Where the door is doesn't really matter (as long as it's not closed.







)
Putting the panel back is as easy as looking to see that the pivot tabs are in the right notches on the right side of the case before closing it. If you do that, it just swings back onto place and locks with a click.
Both operations are really easy. Yes, you have to take the side panels off, but if you're messing with those fans, you're probably going to need to do that anyways.


----------



## goldbranch

Does anyone know if the Arc Mini can fit a 3 slot graphic card (say the Asus Direct CU II or ref card with Accelero Xtreme Plus cooler) with the top hdd cage removed?


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;14767381*
> Mousie_Grr you aren't the only one with the hdd cage plastic rail screws scrapping the hdds. Because of that I removed the plastic rails. I wasn't going to use the top cage anyway. Another flaw on the some Arc Midis is the expansion slots screw holes not lining up properly with cards. Also the flimsy mess grills.
> 
> I love the Arc Midi and Fractal Design Cases. But I think we should contact Fractal Design about these issues.


Well I decided to contact Fractal about these issues even though they're minor. A rep from Fractal wanted me to measure the screws that hold the plastic rails for the top HDD cage. Also to take pics of of cards not properly lining up.


----------



## psychrage

I'm just going to throw up a pic of my rig


----------



## pchow05

thats hawt minus the color of the tubes. lol


----------



## psychrage

Yea its hardware store tubing. It gets that color in about after about a week with just distilled and biocide. =(


----------



## Odracir

Hi guys
Can anyone tell me please the spacing between the 2 front fans in the define mini and the arc mini?

Thank you


----------



## NguyenAdam

Can the R3 fit a 240 rad in the roof with plenty of room to spare?


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goldbranch*


Does anyone know if the Arc Mini can fit a 3 slot graphic card (say the Asus Direct CU II or ref card with Accelero Xtreme Plus cooler) with the top hdd cage removed?


Yes it can. I had the 6950 Direct CU in there. Removing the top HDD cage it fit perfectly. In fact, the cooler just rested on the lower HDD cage and actually supported the GPU a bit.


----------



## Michalius

Whelp, took the plunge after reading some posts in here. On the way:

Fractal Arc Mini
2500K
Maximus IV Gene-Z
8GB Vengeance Low Profile
XSPC Rasa RS240
Koolance RP-401X2 with PMP-400

So happy I finally found an mATX that I can watercool with. I think i'll also be using the side panel window from my 600T on it. Now, to find someone with a water cutter in my area...


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;14939193*
> Can the R3 fit a 240 rad in the roof with plenty of room to spare?


There really isn't much room. You probably could install a rad but not a thick one like the XSPC RX240. Also you might not be able to install the rad w/fans in the case. The memory modules and mosfet heatsinks would also restrict the amount of space you have. Another thing you would have to do is drill out new holes to mount the rad. Because the the 120mm fan holes won't line up with any radiator. 4 of the holes will, not the rest. Another thing you could do is drill new holes for the radiator closer to the left side panel. It would give you more clearance for the motherboard and memory.

The reason I replaced my R3 with the Arc Midi was because you couldn't fit a loop internally without modifications.

Here's some pics from my old rig in the R3. So you can see just how much space there is.


----------



## Not A Good Idea

i just replaced my XL, if any one is interested...


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;14947605*
> There really isn't much room. You probably could install a rad but not a thick one like the XSPC RX240. Also you might not be able to install the rad w/fans in the case. The memory modules and mosfet heatsinks would also restrict the amount of space you have. Another thing you would have to do is drill out new holes to mount the rad. Because the the 120mm fan holes won't line up with any radiator. 4 of the holes will, not the rest. Another thing you could do is drill new holes for the radiator closer to the left side panel. It would give you more clearance for the motherboard and memory.
> 
> The reason I replaced my R3 with the Arc Midi was because you couldn't fit a loop internally without modifications.
> 
> Here's some pics from my old rig in the R3. So you can see just how much space there is.


Aw well thats disappointing.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea;14947645*
> i just replaced my XL, if any one is interested...


What'd you replace it with?


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not A Good Idea;14947645*
> i just replaced my XL, if any one is interested...


With?
And whats your location?


----------



## goldbranch

Here's my work in progress Arc Mini:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

And I honestly have no clue on how to deal with this mess:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## Florida_Dan

Well, it looks like the good folks at FD are officially listing the kits on their web site for the Define R2/R3 and XL:

http://www.fractal-design.com/index.php?view=product&prod=62
http://www.fractal-design.com/index.php?view=product&prod=63

However, their News page doesn't say when these might be available here. A quick check of Newegg indicates that they don't have them yet (no surprise there.)


----------



## ekg84

ok so i just got myself Fractal Core 3000 case. Did few minor modifications to make it look a better. I like the case a lot.



















































































First of all i decided to cut off this ugly looking grid behind front panel mesh:










then to cover the remains of grid i used thick paper which i spray painted










Also as you can see on the pictures above i've removed dust filter to make front fans visible.

Sleeved all cables:










There is not the whole lot of space behind the mobo tray but if you spend time you can still do pretty good job with cables, here is what is going on behind the mobo tray:

















I recommend this case.


----------



## stimr2

Looks super clean. Cutting the grids on the front panel just makes it look so much better.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;14991512*
> Looks super clean. Cutting the grids on the front panel just makes it look so much better.


Thanx mate! I think i am pleased with results myself. That damn grid is indeed very irritating. All fractal design cases have this same problem. I guess thats because without it soft dust filter which fractal use in their cases gets sucked into the fan. Thats why i like looks of new Carbide cases from Corsair so much, esp 500r - no grid, dual fans, clean design. But it just too big for my taste. Core 3000 on the other hand - just right size.


----------



## Michalius

MMMm yes. UPS just delivered my Arc Mini and Gene-Z. Time to get modding.


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Florida_Dan;14974777*
> Well, it looks like the good folks at FD are officially listing the kits on their web site for the Define R2/R3 and XL:
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/index.php?view=product&prod=62
> http://www.fractal-design.com/index.php?view=product&prod=63
> 
> However, their News page doesn't say when these might be available here. A quick check of Newegg indicates that they don't have them yet (no surprise there.)












It looks like pricing is going to be either €9.99 or $9.99 if the article below is accurate but of course, no one know for sure until it's readily available in the marketplace.

http://news.softpedia.com/news/Fractal-Design-Intros-USB-3-0-Upgrade-Kits-for-the-Define-R3-or-Define-XL-221072.shtml


----------



## XtremlyDementeD

just stumbled across this browsing for ideas and thought id post my setup.
Fractal Design r3 case thermalright silver arrow cpu(i7 920 @ 4.2ht)/shaman ("6970" 900/1400) super silent..couple ssd's no mechanical drives etc..


----------



## Florida_Dan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onedollarinmywallet;14992496*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like pricing is going to be either €9.99 or $9.99 if the article below is accurate but of course, no one know for sure until it's readily available in the marketplace.


Yeah, NCIX (both .com and .ca) list them as "available" but "back ordered" and the price shows there as $9.99, Canadian.

For $10, this is on my shopping list. Heck, I had to spend that just to get the 8-pin ATX cable to reach in my XL (without going through the mobo compartment. I'm more than happy enough with the case to drop that to get USB 3.0 on the front of it.

My 8-pin extender finally got here so I may post some pictures (depending on how they come out.)


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremlyDementeD;14993028*
> just stumbled across this browsing for ideas and thought id post my setup.
> Fractal Design r3 case thermalright silver arrow cpu(i7 920 @ 4.2ht)/shaman ("6970" 900/1400) super silent..couple ssd's no mechanical drives etc..


Love the paint job on the SA. What method/paint did you use? I get alot of questions in the SA club about painting the fans so any info would be very helpful.









Wait, when you say you stumbled across this did you mean this thread or the posted pictures?


----------



## XtremlyDementeD

Stumbled across thread...as far as painting I just took the fans apart cleaned them and used I believe krylon fusion for plastic..I'll double check when I get home...also tapped off any important parts and that's really it... Thanks for the compliments


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84;14989536*


Hope you don't mind, but I want to steal this idea for my Arc Mini casemod. So beautiful.


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

Heard back from Fractal Design re the availability of the USB 3.0 upgrade kits. Here's a quote from the email:

"They do exist, they just aren't available yet... They should be available on Newegg in a couple of weeks. They have the product and we're just waiting on them to put them online. I would recommend just checking occasionally. Shouldn't be much longer. If you use Facebook or Twitter we'll post on our sights as things become available, such as fans and USB 3.0."

Also, the official Facebook and Twitter links for Fractal-Design North America is:

http://www.facebook.com/FractalDesignNA
http://twitter.com/#!/fractaldesignna

Hope this helps!


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius;15002079*
> Hope you don't mind, but I want to steal this idea for my Arc Mini casemod. So beautiful.


I don't mind at all! I'm more than happy to share ideas.







This what OCN is for. I think ark mini would look much better with this kind of mod, so whenever u done post some pictures.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84;15005119*
> I don't mind at all! I'm more than happy to share ideas.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what OCN is for. I think ark mini would look much better with this kind of mod, so whenever u done post some pictures.


Will do. This will be my very first WC rig as well as the first time I've put a decent amount of time modding the case. Generally, when my parts arrive, I'm too excited to spend an additional 1-3 weeks doing additional labor. I think I'll probably do a log for it as well.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XtremlyDementeD;14998806*
> Stumbled across thread...as far as painting I just took the fans apart cleaned them and used I believe krylon fusion for plastic..I'll double check when I get home...also tapped off any important parts and that's really it... Thanks for the compliments


Thanks for the info!







Btw, you should stop by the SA club and post pics there as well.


----------



## Krame




----------



## Michalius

Looking at powdercoating the top and front grille on my Arc Mini. Big question: White or red? My PSU is sleeved mostly white with two red on the end of each one.


----------



## Krahe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stimr2*


There really isn't much room. You probably could install a rad but not a thick one like the XSPC RX240. Also you might not be able to install the rad w/fans in the case. The memory modules and mosfet heatsinks would also restrict the amount of space you have. Another thing you would have to do is drill out new holes to mount the rad. Because the the 120mm fan holes won't line up with any radiator. 4 of the holes will, not the rest. Another thing you could do is drill new holes for the radiator closer to the left side panel. It would give you more clearance for the motherboard and memory.

The reason I replaced my R3 with the Arc Midi was because you couldn't fit a loop internally without modifications.

Here's some pics from my old rig in the R3. So you can see just how much space there is. 








[/IMG]


I am trying to squeeze a custom loop into the R3 atm and as Stimr2 said it is very tight. The only other way of mounting a 240 internally apart from what Stimr2 mentioned that i could think of was if you used the Scythe 120mm x 12mm fans, even then you would only have around 1/2-1mm to spare. Didnt get to test that theory though as i could not find any supplier that had the fans in stock so have gone the external route.
I did hope to complete it this weekend but am still waiting on some fittings, I spent around 9 hours yesterday just fitting a 120mm rad in front and a pump/res in the botttom. Will post some pics when done.

Squeezing things into the R3 is more fun than a Rubics cube, the you come to the cable management and the fun ends









hth's


----------



## IcyPimpHand

I have a question for you guys... Around Christmas time I'll probably get the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 kit, and a new case. I want a Fractal case because they look good, and are pretty cheap. I want a case that is smaller then my 922 right now. I think it's too big. I'm looking at the Arc Midi and R3 right now. Anyone with the R3 think it's as big as the 922?

Lastly I was wondering will that kit fit in those cases?


----------



## Donkey1514

Quote:



Originally Posted by *psychrage*


I'm just going to throw up a pic of my rig










what's that fan on top of the video card blowing on?


----------



## psychrage

Northbridge until it goes under water in about a month.


----------



## Behrouz

Just a quick pic before a few parts come, to prepare for BF3.


----------



## falcon26

I really wish Fractal would come out with a side panel window for the R3's


----------



## Conc3ntrate

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Behrouz*


Just a quick pic before a few parts come, to prepare for BF3.










*Snip*


Very nice, I've been wondering what the H100 would look like in there.


----------



## candy_van

Anyone know why Newegg doesn't have the Arc Mini listed anymore? 
The Define Mini is out of stock; I'm presuming it's just the same deal on the Arc.


----------



## Michalius

I just bought mine from them last week. Must have gone out of stock. You can always contact them through their customer service to see when they expect a new shipment.


----------



## skaboy607

My complete Fractal build.


----------



## jeffblute

Good and bad news all.
The Bad: I have sold my Fractal XL to my last customer : (
The Good: It was to my girlfriend so it's moved over a whole four feet to the right of where it was.









So I still semi got the case! haha I will be posting her rig when I get my new case this week. I decided to try and give the CM Scout a go, Ive been itching to do some military themed mods!


----------



## falcon26

Nice setup man  love that black and red look..nice and clean..


----------



## densulim

hi to all!
i am today buying R3 cool case!!


----------



## Konkistadori

Unfinished FD-mini WC build


----------



## subtec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Konkistadori;15101227*
> Unfinished FD-mini WC build


What rad and fans? Does the rad overlap the motherboard at all?


----------



## Michalius

If that's a 240mm rad, how does it do with cooling CPU and GPU? Thinking about adding a GPU block to my rasa rs240 kit, but am skeptical.


----------



## willistech

Greetings fellow Fractal owners. ARC Midi owner here! Previously also had a Define R3 which I sold to a friend.


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

The USB 3.0 upgrade kits for the R3 and XL are now in stock at NCIX.com (Canada).

They're not available at NCIX.com's US site or Newegg.com yet though.









Fractal Design USB3.0 Upgrade Kit for Define R3 Case http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=64088

Fractal Design USB3.0 Upgrade Kit for Define XL Case
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=64087

Price is CAD $9.99.


----------



## surfbumb

anywhere other than newegg to buy fractal cases for US customers?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb;15104129*
> anywhere other than newegg to buy fractal cases for US customers?


NCIX according to Fractal's website.


----------



## surfbumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15104463*
> NCIX according to Fractal's website.


that's the canadian website...I'm guessing they will update the US one soon.


----------



## Michalius

Whelp, here is the basic setup for my new project. I call it the Arc Advanced. Basically, just want to keep the stock aesthetic of the Arc Mini, but enhance the looks that are there. System specs are in my sig.




























After getting everything together, realized I didn't flush the radiator. Whoops.

For those who have Rads in the top of the minis, normal 120x25mm fans will not fit in the rear panel, but that Scythe Slipstream fits like it was meant to be there. If only it had white blades though...


----------



## Konkistadori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subtec;15101331*
> What rad and fans? Does the rad overlap the motherboard at all?


It might be aquacool extreme 3, not sure tough.... 40euro 360rad 45mm thick. Fans are on top of the case.. Rad doesnt overlap mobo..

Fans are gentle typhoons.

Temps on full load are around 50-60 cpu and gpu around 40-50 when fans were running about 1000 rpm.

When gaming cpu temps stats in 45-55 range and gpu barely goes over 45 celsius degrees..


----------



## Florida_Dan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb;15105052*
> that's the canadian website...I'm guessing they will update the US one soon.


The US version of ncix.com is open (you have to click the American flag for the US site.)

For whatever reason, Fractal stuff has gotten a tad hard to get lately:

Define XL and R3 (in black) are out of stock at Newegg (OK, the SKUs are actually "deactivated" but I gotta think they'll be back)
The Mini is out of stock.
NCIX only has some cases as kits with kinda funky PSUs
The USB 3.0 upgrade kit is available at NCIX Canada, but there's no real way for an American to order it now that their American site is up (I tried and the checkout page redirected me to the US site where the SKU is invalid.)
I'm just being patient and waiting to see what's up, but Fractal hasn't responded to my inquiry about the upgrade kit in the US. If you want the R3 in a color other than black or some of their other cases you're good from Newegg, otherwise get in the boat with me.









Edit:

I just got off the phone with Fractal Designs technical support. I got frustrated about getting the run-around on availability of the upgrade kit from both NCIX (talking to a live person there takes an act of God and they apparently don't read or respond to their e-mails), and the Newegg was just useless (as far a they were concerned, there was no such thing as an upgrade kit and any cases that were out of stock were never coming back.)

The guy I talked to at Fractal was just about as frustrated. He indicated that Newegg has the kits and some new cases with USB 3.0 support build in. Everyone is just waiting for Newegg to get on the ball and get the SKUs in their system. His estimate was another two calendar weeks (meaning 14 days.) We'll see. I'm not going to hold my breath, but I'm going to have to be patient.


----------



## Michalius

FWIW, the Arc Mini I got had a USB 3.0 I/O panel. Ordered from Newegg last week.


----------



## SupaSupra

In, my Arc Midi just came in today. Can't wait to get home from work to put it to use.


----------



## mikesae

My first attempt at building a computer. Also, proof that a GTX580 DirectCu fits an R3, no problem.

Scythes in the front, Noctuas in the back.

Would like to clean the cabling up more, but want to play with the computer rather than the cables at this time!


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikesae;15121710*
> My first attempt at building a computer. Also, proof that a GTX580 DirectCu fits an R3, no problem.
> 
> Scythes in the front, Noctuas in the back.
> 
> Would like to clean the cabling up more, but want to play with the computer rather than the cables at this time!


You got some nice hardware in there...fill out your sig specs!


----------



## mikesae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15121903*
> You got some nice hardware in there...fill out your sig specs!


Done









I originally had the system in a Lian-Li "quiet" PC Z-60 case, but sadly it was quite noisy, hummed along with the fans and rattled with the HDDs.
The Fractal R3 is remarkably damped and quiet.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikesae;15122279*
> Done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I originally had the system in a Lian-Li "quiet" PC Z-60 case, but sadly it was quite noisy, hummed along with the fans and rattled with the HDDs.
> The Fractal R3 is remarkably damped and quiet.


Yay!


----------



## KamikaZee

I have a small request to anyone with an R3. I'm on the verge of buying one, though I fear my WC setup won't fit. Could anyone with 120mm fans mounted at the top take a top down picture of the vent, so it shows any possible clearance to RAM? some detail shots of the fan mounts in general there would be nice as well, since if clearance for the 120mm fans is not there then I might have an idea how to solve it still









I do know that the arc would actually fit my setup, but the R3 just looks sexier


----------



## stimr2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KamikaZee;15125415*
> I have a small request to anyone with an R3. I'm on the verge of buying one, though I fear my WC setup won't fit. Could anyone with 120mm fans mounted at the top take a top down picture of the vent, so it shows any possible clearance to RAM? some detail shots of the fan mounts in general there would be nice as well, since if clearance for the 120mm fans is not there then I might have an idea how to solve it still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do know that the arc would actually fit my setup, but the R3 just looks sexier


I don't have any top down pictures. However, another member did post if a WC loop would fit in the R3. Here's the post I replied with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2;14947605*
> There really isn't much room. You probably could install a rad but not a thick one like the XSPC RX240. Also you might not be able to install the rad w/fans in the case. The memory modules and mosfet heatsinks would also restrict the amount of space you have. Another thing you would have to do is drill out new holes to mount the rad. Because the the 120mm fan holes won't line up with any radiator. 4 of the holes will, not the rest. Another thing you could do is drill new holes for the radiator closer to the left side panel. It would give you more clearance for the motherboard and memory.
> 
> The reason I replaced my R3 with the Arc Midi was because you couldn't fit a loop internally without modifications.
> 
> Here's some pics from my old rig in the R3. So you can see just how much space there is.


I did try to install my H70 in the top panel but it wouldn't fit because of the RAM. I suggest getting a Arc Midi for your WC loop. I love my Arc Midi and it had no problem fitting my WC loop.


----------



## Krahe

Just installed a loop in my Fractal, I had to mount the top and rear rad externally, but driiled 25mm holes so it would not look to out of place as I like the clean look of the R3 as well.



















hth's


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;15131828*
> Just installed a loop in my Fractal, I had to mount the top and rear rad externally, but driiled 25mm holes so it would not look to out of place as I like the clean look of the R3 as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hth's


Loving the setup


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;15131828*
> Just installed a loop in my Fractal, I had to mount the top and rear rad externally, but driiled 25mm holes so it would not look to out of place as I like the clean look of the R3 as well.
> 
> hth's


Is your PSU invisible? Why can't I see it? Lol..


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15132091*
> Is your PSU invisible? Why can't I see it? Lol..


Hi Solsamurai, the Coolmaster psu has a nice finish so i peeled the sticker off and cut the 2 upper Fractal "moduvents" to make a cover to hide the wires coming out the back, I used aluminium brackets and secured it to the floor of the case.


----------



## solsamurai

Very nice. Thanks for the additional pic.


----------



## stimr2

Krähe that is just pure awesomeness.


----------



## salokin

Quick question to Arc Midi owners: can you fit a side panel fan AND a big tower cpu cooler like the SA? Thanks.


----------



## KamikaZee

Inspired by this : http://forums.overclockers.com.au/sh...d.php?t=949898

I decided to jump the gun and buy an arctic white R3. I'm comfortable with a little modding, and I definitely want my 2x120 rad in the R3. While the Arc Midi would be the natural choice for my setup, I just like the R3's aesthetic more, I also want a quieter case.

Not sure if I'll actually just drill new holes for the rad mount (surface area loss seems minimal) or if I copy KrÃ¤he's mount (though that would ruin the white exterior).
Also I'll swap the red LED for a blue one (will be taken from my old case).

So yea, waiting for the case to arrive and then I might get some pics going


----------



## Krahe

Looking forward to the pic's Kamikazee, good luck with your project.


----------



## Pott

Proud owner of a brand new Arctic white R3... and a GTX560TI Hawk to replace my GTX460 768MB Cyclone









I just assembled it all in the new case.

1) I put the I/O panel wrong so I'll have to re-assemble the whole thing. DOH!
2) cable management is amazing in there, even with my half modular PSU
3) however it feels that the case is noisier







I have three fans in there (two stock + a blue CM fan) all connected to the motherboard (not yet using the fan controller though I will soon). The noise is more hissy than it used to be with my Antec 300.

The R3 is twice the case the 300 is but I may need to do some tweaking to get it to its best. Such a beautiful design too...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

What Fractal case would you recommend for my sig rig?


----------



## Edgarejc

Can you buy a custom side panel that has a clear view? I'm in love with the R3, and
I'm getting close to purchasing it. and having a clear side panel would be a dream with that sexy case!


----------



## KamikaZee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Edgarejc*


Can you buy a custom side panel that has a clear view? I'm in love with the R3, and
I'm getting close to purchasing it. and having a clear side panel would be a dream with that sexy case!










I don't think there ever will be one, since fractals goal with the R3 seems to be silent operation, which is not possible with a windowed side panel.


----------



## Sevens

Hello,
Is there a way to fit a gtx 580 with an Arctic Accelero XTREME Plus II in the R3 ?


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salokin;15150617*
> Quick question to Arc Midi owners: can you fit a side panel fan AND a big tower cpu cooler like the SA? Thanks.


Mini owner here, but if I'm not mistaken, the fan is placed over the expansion slots, not the CPU block. It should be absolutely fine.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

My R3 has turned up. Can't wait to install everything. Any tips on cable management? Also would it be worth putting some different fans in it? I've got 5 Silent Eagle SE's that I could install.


----------



## mikesae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88;15189654*
> My R3 has turned up. Can't wait to install everything. Any tips on cable management? Also would it be worth putting some different fans in it? I've got 5 Silent Eagle SE's that I could install.


You'll find cable management with the R3 is pretty good with well positioned grommets and tons of little slots to slide zipties through.

I found the best cooling/noise compromise for my kit was a single intake in the front, single rear exaust and undervolted 140mm fan exhausting from the side moduvent.


----------



## ReignsOfPower

Oh cool a club for this case. Can I join? I have the mini.








http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/154...0917092449.jpg

Upgrading soon to either a Gene-Z/Gen3 with a 2700k or a X79 with 3630k.
Also picking up a 3K3UC from coolance. Does anyone know what size tubing I can fit through the top watercooling holes? They feel pretty small to me. might have to get the drill out


----------



## mm67

My new Arc Midi build


----------



## Krahe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mm67*


My new Arc Midi build


Nice mate







, what sort of pump are you using?


----------



## mm67

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KrÃ¤he*


Nice mate







, what sort of pump are you using?


That's a Swiftech MCP35X pump + reservoir.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Looking for a little help...if folks are game.









I like the size and looks of the Arc Mini...and am considering building one. I have built a number of PCs over the years, but my latest is about four years old...so I am way out of touch.

My high-level goals for the build:

Mid-range price...perhaps a bit more
Probably won't overclock (never have)
Will most likely air cool (always have)
Would like it to be relatively quiet...but it doesn't need to be dead silent (yeah, a Define Mini would probably be better)
Will leave it on 24/7...as I do with my current PC...which doubles as a home server
Will game on it as well...COD, BF3....and then it can be noisy









Initial thoughts:

I don't see much in terms of decent choices for a new MicroATX board...so I'm thinking about a ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z LGA 1155 Intel Z68
Would like an efficient PSU since it will be on 24x7...and quiet...and probably modular
Need at least 8GB of RAM
Would like a GPU that can handle upcoming games...and can drive two monitors
Not really interested in an SSD
Already have an OS license, so I am set there (64 bit 7 Pro)

The Gene-Z is probably overkill for my purposes, but it has some other nice non-OC features...and leaves the door open. It seems like the Arc Mini cutout doesn't align properly with the board, so the cooler could be an issue....but folks seem to manage. I'll likely only drop in two drives...perhaps three...so the top cage is coming out.

Any help on any subject above would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## JAM3S121

i guess this is a stupid question but how much quieter can you expect your system to be by just transferring into one of these cases?


----------



## Krahe

tbh I dont find it that much quieter, though I have removed the vents to place fans, fan/airflow/sound is a balancing act that depends on your personal needs. With no overclock and vents in place I think it would be very quiet.


----------



## densulim

hi to all
ASUS AMD RADEON HD 6950 DirectCU II can be inserted into Fractal R3??


----------



## tranzeagle

I would like to throw my hat into the ring as well.


















I know not the best pics but I work with what I have.


----------



## dlerch

My fractal is silent when I am not running games. I'd say it is about 40%-50% quieter when you are running games. Then again I don't have a decibel reader. I have twin gtx 260s that are very loud when running games and it isn't that loud when I'm gaming. My speakers muffle it out. A HUGE improvement over my old mid atx case. Get it, best case for the money. Great cable management, looks slick, strong build, and super silent.


----------



## eGGe

Hello boys and girls!

I was just wondering how you all have mounted your possible hdd into the R3? I've got the Samsung F3 mounted like it should be into the case, but the hdd resonate a bit. I've heard that some install the hdd with rubber band or something like that to prevent the hdd to touch the case. Are there anybody here that have done this? I would love to see some pictures how this actually is done!

Thanks in advance


----------



## eGGe

So, found some pics on the net on how the hdd could be suspended in a case, and got some ideas of them.

I just finished suspending the Samsung F3 in my R3, and it is DEAD silent now!! Can't literally hear anything from that HDD! I'm very pleased with this









Now my R3 is even better than before!


----------



## Odracir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eGGe;15339643*
> So, found some pics on the net on how the hdd could be suspended in a case, and got some ideas of them.
> 
> I just finished suspending the Samsung F3 in my R3, and it is DEAD silent now!! Can't literally hear anything from that HDD! I'm very pleased with this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now my R3 is even better than before!


Do share


----------



## moonslug

Agreed, suspending the HD in the R3 is very easy! I did mine this weekend, and MAN does it make a difference! If I put my ear right up to it, I can hear a very low/quiet seek noise, but the sound profile from when it was bolted down is completely different! Definitely recommended.


----------



## Johnsen

Well im not sure i Ever signed up back when i had the Define R2, But sign me up again, sold my 800D and now got the Arc mini. Pics commin up - and so sweet modding plans.


----------



## Johnsen

Heres a links that shows how to suspend them: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article8-page2.html


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA;15229751*
> Looking for a little help...if folks are game.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the size and looks of the Arc Mini...and am considering building one. I have built a number of PCs over the years, but my latest is about four years old...so I am way out of touch.
> 
> My high-level goals for the build:
> 
> Mid-range price...perhaps a bit more
> Probably won't overclock (never have)
> Will most likely air cool (always have)
> Would like it to be relatively quiet...but it doesn't need to be dead silent (yeah, a Define Mini would probably be better)
> Will leave it on 24/7...as I do with my current PC...which doubles as a home server
> Will game on it as well...COD, BF3....and then it can be noisy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Initial thoughts:
> 
> I don't see much in terms of decent choices for a new MicroATX board...so I'm thinking about a ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z LGA 1155 Intel Z68
> Would like an efficient PSU since it will be on 24x7...and quiet...and probably modular
> Need at least 8GB of RAM
> Would like a GPU that can handle upcoming games...and can drive two monitors
> Not really interested in an SSD
> Already have an OS license, so I am set there (64 bit 7 Pro)
> 
> The Gene-Z is probably overkill for my purposes, but it has some other nice non-OC features...and leaves the door open. It seems like the Arc Mini cutout doesn't align properly with the board, so the cooler could be an issue....but folks seem to manage. I'll likely only drop in two drives...perhaps three...so the top cage is coming out.
> 
> Any help on any subject above would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


If you're not OC'ing, yes, Gene-Z is throwing away money. With that being said, I have no reason why you wouldn't want to OC. To get a mild 4.3-4.5ghz OC, you literally change two values - multiplier and voltage. Hell, you're on the Overclock.net boards, time to get OC'ing!

If you are leaving it on 24/7, and are concerned with energy bills, I'd suggest going for an AMD card. The idle wattage pulls on them is absolutely fantastic. 6950 2GB would suit you well. If you can hold out a few months, the 7870 is looking to be a really fantastic card.

Any of the Seasonic X series PSU's will suit you well, as they're 80+ Gold. With a single card and a light OC, you won't need more than 600W.

Also, you *should* be interested in an SSD.

Finally, yeah, the cutout on the Arc tray does not match up with the backplate holes, and it needs to be assembled out of the case. I'm not sure what other issue that cases that you're referring to. You simply install the heatsink with the motherboard out of the case.

Define Mini does sound like it'll suit you a bit more, but I do have to get a shoutout to the Arc. Can fit a lot of really nice hardware in a small enclosure. Attached is my hasty post-build pic.


----------



## pez

Where are you guys (in the U.S.) ordering your case from? I see Newegg has it on their site, but there are no ratings, and no picture. What's up with that? I've had a really big interest in this case, and the last time I really checked it out was probably around 2 or so months ago. The only thing is that I can't really find a place to buy it from.


----------



## solsamurai

I'd trust the members of this club over the newegg reviews any day.







Newegg is super slow at updating newer products with pictures.


----------



## Michalius

Got mine from newegg.


----------



## pez

I guess I'll have to put my trust in them, then :ure for it.P. Just find it really strange there's no picture for it.


----------



## toyz72

i just ordered my Arc Mini. hoping to have it buy friday. theres still some other parts i want before i put it together though. i'll post pictures on arrival.


----------



## ChaiBear

Hi Pez,

If you are talking about the Fractal R3, then the reason for the absence of pics on Newegg is because the R3 with USB 3.0 just came out. They deactivated the USB 2.0 version a couple weeks ago. I assume Newegg has recently received shipments for the USB 3.0 version and just as Solsamurai said, they are taking their time with the pics.

I've been eying those cases as well for some time. Hope that helps your decision!


----------



## pez

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ChaiBear*


Hi Pez,

If you are talking about the Fractal R3, then the reason for the absence of pics on Newegg is because the R3 with USB 3.0 just came out. They deactivated the USB 2.0 version a couple weeks ago. I assume Newegg has recently received shipments for the USB 3.0 version and just as Solsamurai said, they are taking their time with the pics.

I've been eying those cases as well for some time. Hope that helps your decision!


That makes a lot of sense actually, and it's really awesome that they're doing that update. Thank you so much for this!


----------



## BBEG

Now just chop the HDD cage in half and make both halves removable; both Arc's and the Define Mini has it, dammit. _So close_. In an email a month(ish) ago I was told to keep my eyes peeled for the Define R4, which would address the only criticisms I have with the R3. Looks like they're just updating the R3 itself for now, which is fine by me.


----------



## Wogga

havent posted here yet, but i think it will be interesting in some way
here is my Define XL

there are no front pics - still have some problems with fan controller








and still havent set rad


----------



## Michalius

I've been curious to see how cooling works out when you're doing the whole system but with no breaks in between to go back to a Rad. Seems like that water would be awfully hot by the time it hits that second GPU.

Also, that bend from your CPU to your chipset looks like it's going to cut down flow significantly.


----------



## Wogga

load temp of CPU is 65, GPUs are 40/39/40/41.
delta is ~4 degrees so no problems with temperatures
and there are 2 DDC 1T+ so no problems with flow. damn, i've built this 3 months =) ofc all is fine

i had to make this elbow, because mosfet wb and CPU wb are on the different levels (~0.7 cm).


----------



## Michalius

The experience is much appreciated. I've been apprehensive about adding my GPUs to the loop because of all the extra tubes I'd have to add for a second rad in between. The wheels are spinnin' now!


----------



## Michalius

Alright, got some semi-decent pics of the final build. Only plans for this guy right now is to get another SSD. Waiting for the right deal to come along.














































And of course, most importantly:










5Ghz stable @ 1.45V.


----------



## Talos77

Nice looking build. Very tidy. What was your ambient temp for that run?

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## Michalius

Ambient was right around 19C.


----------



## Johnsen

Count me in.

Honnestly i gave up gaming, modding and watecoolin and sold my big rig. But when bf3 came out i couldnt resist. Pics, commin up later tonight or tomorow. Nothin to be exited about, its a value rig really..


----------



## Krame




----------



## solsamurai

Very nice. Window looks great!


----------



## pez

That looks beautiful. White LED's were always a dream of mine, too.


----------



## Kaneda13

did mine tonight too. still waiting to buy my water block to get my cooling system done, but here's the front (crappy cell phone pics)


----------



## ekg84

Nice to see people modding their front panels and cutting plastic grids off







This makes fractal cases look so much better. I Got my 2nd fractal case recently btw. Its a baby Core 1000. I have to say that im very impressed, i was affraid of bad cooling with single 120mm intake and single 92mm exhaust but its great! Temps are the same with side panel or without which means that air flow is sufficient.


----------



## momonz

Question to arc midi tower owners, how is the steel build quality of the case compared to Lancool K63\\K62 cases?


----------



## Kaneda13

finally got the camera charged, and when ahead and did the top too, what think?


----------



## drunkenvalley

Sadly, I'm not out to join the club.

However, I'm more than happy to share my own Define machine. I don't intend to keep it. Sadly, it still lacks a processor, which I'm hopefully getting somewhere this month. This also means I didn't attach the Corsair H80 cooler.










*Thoughts on Define R3*
While visually pleasing, this case has been rather annoying to work with. Those panels on the side are fine right up until you have to reattach them, upon which they have a nasty tendency of not quite fitting.

Oh, the amount of rage I've spent trying to fit it over the tidy cables on the back. And they're tidy. I swear.


----------



## Kaneda13

anyone have one of the 120MM white bladed fans they are willing to part with?


----------



## solsamurai

In case you weren't aware you could grab one of these NZXT fans. Same color scheme.


----------



## Kaneda13

yeah, i found a couple of places that sell white bladed fans, even places that sell the fractal fans, just thought i would see if any club members could use a little extra $$


----------



## solsamurai

I figured as much.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13;15625116*
> yeah, i found a couple of places that sell white bladed fans, even places that sell the fractal fans, just thought i would see if any club members could use a little extra $$


i have all 3 for sale in the forums


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *toyz72*


i have all 3 for sale in the forums


yeah, i saw that and commented, but i only need 1, not all 3.


----------



## Xyphyr

Found out the H100 fits in the Define Mini.


----------



## burndtjamb

Anyone have any instructions/tips on how to remove the front panel on the R3? I want to make sure I don't damage it by doing it improperly.


----------



## Kaneda13

got my loop in, hope to get some better pics this weekend....


----------



## Kaneda13

ok, just finished redoing my water loop, i had cut one hose too long and my pump/res won't fit properly. so, here we go:

*From the Front:*









*Side with the panel removed:*









*Detail of the hoses:*


















*Side with the panel installed:*









*Night time....*


----------



## stimr2

Looks really clean and I'm digging the RayStorm. Not really a fan of lighting but the RayStorm looks really good w/ the blue LEDs. Great job Kaneda12 on your rig.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2*
> 
> Looks really clean and I'm digging the RayStorm. Not really a fan of lighting but the RayStorm looks really good w/ the blue LEDs. Great job Kaneda12 on your rig.


+1 Great job!


----------



## masonkian

purchased the core 1000 mini as i needed a very small case
well happy with the quality for such a low price

had a lot to cram into it

have since replaced the fan on the arctic cooler to a coolermaster sickleflow


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> ok, just finished redoing my water loop, i had cut one hose too long and my pump/res won't fit properly. so, here we go:


Any reason why you're leaving the yop HDD cage in place? Seems like you would get better airflow with it removed.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonkian*
> 
> purchased the core 1000 mini as i needed a very small case
> well happy with the quality for such a low price
> had a lot to cram into it
> have since replaced the fan on the arctic cooler to a coolermaster sickleflow


Looks good!


----------



## subtec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Any reason why you're leaving the yop HDD cage in place? Seems like you would get better airflow with it removed.


When you turn the cage like that it acts as a duct to focus the airflow, supposedly. Probably doesn't make a big difference either way though.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subtec*
> 
> When you turn the cage like that it acts as a duct to focus the airflow, supposedly. Probably doesn't make a big difference either way though.


true. i turned mine and left it in place, as it gives me a nice place to hide cable on the over side.


----------



## adridu59

Why does OP only talk about Define R3 ?


----------



## ritz

Here's my Arc Midi







Couple other images here:


http://imgur.com/Y2oGw


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ritz*
> 
> Here's my Arc Midi
> 
> Couple other images here:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Y2oGw


man this is one sexy pc u got there








what camera are you shooting with? those photos are super nice


----------



## masonkian

yep camera please i need to know


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Why does OP only talk about Define R3 ?


The thread was started October of *2010*, none of the modern cases where here then.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subtec*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Any reason why you're leaving the yop HDD cage in place? Seems like you would get better airflow with it removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you turn the cage like that it acts as a duct to focus the airflow, supposedly. Probably doesn't make a big difference either way though.
Click to expand...

Makes sense.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonkian*
> 
> yep camera please i need to know


Check out the "Take better pictures" item on my sig for more info. It's not that hard to get nice images with most cameras.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ritz*
> 
> Here's my Arc Midi
> 
> *snip*
> Couple other images here:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Y2oGw


Damn. Beautiful images.

Camera doesn't matter all that much. As long as it's 6 MP and you know how to shoot, you'll get images just as good as this. Learn how to tweak the camera settings too.

Want an Arc Midi so bad.


----------



## ritz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Check out the "Take better pictures" item on my sig for more info. It's not that hard to get nice images with most cameras.


I agree, that link in your sig has all the tips you need for great rig pics. I originally wanted to get some photos with my flash, but found just taking pictures next to the window the easiest way. I used a Canon 60D and 50mm f/1.8 lens.

I'm thinking about mounting my radiator on the front intake, just need to figure out a way to mount it. Anyone know an easy way to attach it? I'm thinking lots of zipties.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Damn. Beautiful images.
> Camera doesn't matter all that much. As long as it's 6 MP and you know how to shoot, you'll get images just as good as this. Learn how to tweak the camera settings too.
> Want an Arc Midi so bad.


I can only agree partially, good camera makes difference otherwise people wouldnt spend thousands of dollars for DSLR's and lenses. However, Its still possible to shoot decent pictures with regular point and shoot but once you start comparing them the difference is obvious. Here is an example:

DSLR









P&S









DSLR









P&S


----------



## EventHorizon

Why do I suck at cable management?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Damn. Beautiful images.
> Camera doesn't matter all that much. As long as it's 6 MP and you know how to shoot, you'll get images just as good as this. Learn how to tweak the camera settings too.
> Want an Arc Midi so bad.
> 
> 
> 
> I can only agree partially, good camera makes difference otherwise people wouldnt spend thousands of dollars for DSLR's and lenses. However, Its still possible to shoot decent pictures with regular point and shoot but once you start comparing them the difference is obvious. Here is an example:
Click to expand...

Great example pics.







I just don't want people thinking they can't take good pictures without a $1000 camera/lens.


----------



## ritz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> I can only agree partially, good camera makes difference otherwise people wouldnt spend thousands of dollars for DSLR's and lenses. However, Its still possible to shoot decent pictures with regular point and shoot but once you start comparing them the difference is obvious. Here is an example:
> DSLR


Are those pics reversed? The P&S pics look quite a bit better. They're a lot sharper and have more vibrant colors. The DSLR pics look washed out and not crisp.

I really like the visible front fan... I just want to keep my filter up front.


----------



## toyz72

i was wondering if i was the only one who didn't care much for the case filters that came with there arc mini? i found them to be very restricting on air flow. has anyone else decided to replace there filters?


----------



## Kaneda13

several people had removed them completely, this is how mine looks:










i have talk to another owner who did the same mod, but put a higher flow filter on the back of the fans.


----------



## toyz72

i decided to try to make custom fans filters for mine. i went and bought some cork sheet and some small holed window screen.



all i need to do now is pop the front grill back on. i didnt want to cut my case up. i'm now working on the top filter now.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ritz*
> 
> I agree, that link in your sig has all the tips you need for great rig pics. I originally wanted to get some photos with my flash, but found just taking pictures next to the window the easiest way. I used a Canon 60D and 50mm f/1.8 lens.
> I'm thinking about mounting my radiator on the front intake, just need to figure out a way to mount it. Anyone know an easy way to attach it? I'm thinking lots of zipties.


What kind of rad ? This is how I mounted a 120 rad in upper hard drive cage :


----------



## stimr2

I just thought about making my own filters the other day. Great job toyz72. I think you just inspired me to actually do it now.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stimr2*
> 
> I just thought about making my own filters the other day. Great job toyz72. I think you just inspired me to actually do it now.


i have an extra one laying around, and i verified there is enough room for one of THESE on the back of the fan (only $1.95 each too).


----------



## grassh0ppa

Do the fans that come with the case come with the rubber mounts? I was thinking about getting this case to reduce the sound, the fans seem decent.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*
> 
> Do the fans that come with the case come with the rubber mounts? I was thinking about getting this case to reduce the sound, the fans seem decent.


No, they are hard plastic frames that either snap or screw into place.


----------



## Scorpion49

I'm gonna be in the club too! I just got my Arc Mini today... but I'm not going to take any pictures of it since its torn down ready to get powdercoated white and have 2x 240 rads in it


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> No, they are hard plastic frames that either snap or screw into place.


how is the noise of those fans when you have a few in a system?


----------



## podunk

Has anyone here with the Arc Midi removed the top filter completely? I just checked mine and it was full of dust. (i exhaust through the top). I figured the filter was just trapping dust inside my case and reducing airflow. Also, how do you guys have your fans set up? I bought a bottom and side fan, both intake along with the front. Top and back are exhaust.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *podunk*
> 
> Has anyone here with the Arc Midi removed the top filter completely? I just checked mine and it was full of dust. (i exhaust through the top). I figured the filter was just trapping dust inside my case and reducing airflow. Also, how do you guys have your fans set up? I bought a bottom and side fan, both intake along with the front. Top and back are exhaust.


If you exhaust through the top I see no reason you would need filters there. I personally don't like the filters that came with it at all, they will be going away.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*
> 
> how is the noise of those fans when you have a few in a system?


They aren't every noisy, lowest noise fans in my case
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *podunk*
> 
> Has anyone here with the Arc Midi removed the top filter completely? I just checked mine and it was full of dust. (i exhaust through the top). I figured the filter was just trapping dust inside my case and reducing airflow. Also, how do you guys have your fans set up? I bought a bottom and side fan, both intake along with the front. Top and back are exhaust.


i have pulled mine completely, along with the front too (i run filterless)


----------



## VansNL

hey Guy's

This is my fractal, I use it as HTPC
I've taken out the filter on the front


----------



## Volkswagen

I did the front and top filter removal mod as well- made me fall in love again with the case for now. Was thinking of going ITX but I would lose so much...







It looks much better in real life but i suck at taking pictures


----------



## podunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volkswagen*
> 
> I did the front and top filter removal mod as well- made me fall in love again with the case for now. Was thinking of going ITX but I would lose so much...
> 
> 
> 
> It looks much better in real life but i suck at taking pictures


Would there be any downside to just removing the filter completely vs cutting a hole in it? I would like to avoid doing anything that can't be undone.

EDIT: Also want to add that this case is awesome. Easily worth the money.


----------



## Volkswagen

Filter is removed completely...What you see is some sort of school type black paper behind the mesh


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VansNL*
> 
> hey Guy's
> This is my fractal, I use it as HTPC
> I've taken out the filter on the front


Looks really nice! Got any more pics/sys specs?


----------



## VansNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Looks really nice! Got any more pics/sys specs?


The spec is not that great, it's funny because it is a very old PC.
I try tomorrow to shot more picture from the case.

*SPEC*
Intel P4 3.o
Intel E210882
Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000 640GB SATA2
Coolermaster Silent pro 500 (LOL i had not a ohter Power Supplie)
MSI NX6200AX-TD512H
Adata DDR400 2x1GB


----------



## solsamurai

Sounds good. I'd love to see more of all that passive goodness on the GPU.


----------



## Scorpion49

Confirming 277mm 240 rad (BIP II) fits in front of Arc Mini:


----------



## VansNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Sounds good. I'd love to see more of all that passive goodness on the GPU.


it very nice XD
i try to shot more picture to day, from the videocard. and more course


----------



## LogiTekkers

I am looking at new case and am lately being very tempted to go for a fractal design case, they look so sexy and silence is something i long for when watching movies at night. my antec 300 just dont cut it sound wise. I like the XL but not many people in this thread seem to have it, is the r3 just that good and quiet it is just the best to go for? I like the idea of a full tower for more fututre upgrades like SLi etc. Who can give the XL some good feedback? pictures would be awesome too







I am pretty set on either the r3 or XL. The only thing putting me off the XL is that silly looking 180mm fan


----------



## VansNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LogiTekkers*
> 
> I am looking at new case and am lately being very tempted to go for a fractal design case, they look so sexy and silence is something i long for when watching movies at night. my antec 300 just dont cut it sound wise. I like the XL but not many people in this thread seem to have it, is the r3 just that good and quiet it is just the best to go for? I like the idea of a full tower for more fututre upgrades like SLi etc. Who can give the XL some good feedback? pictures would be awesome too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am pretty set on either the r3 or XL. The only thing putting me off the XL is that silly looking 180mm fan


i find you can beter go for Fractal Design R3 XL. you than more room for upgrade's


----------



## enkay

quick question to r3 owners, how do crossfire temps do in this case?


----------



## ritz

Played around with my fan setup. Putting the Kuhler radiator in the front with a 38mm shroud dropped my temps quite a bit, I'm idling at least 3-4* lower and at least 5* lower under load.










Might grab some acoustic foam to line the dead areas on top, but I think I've found something close to my finished fan setup.


----------



## Greg.Steele




----------



## momonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> several people had removed them completely, this is how mine looks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have talk to another owner who did the same mod, but put a higher flow filter on the back of the fans.


Hi kaneda, i am thinking of getting this case, how do you manage to prevent dust coming into your case if you removed the front filters?


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Does anyone know if a 240 rad will fit up top in the Core 3000 case? I see it fits in the Arc Mini, but I'm interested in the 3000. Thanks!


----------



## Krame

Made a couple changes to my Arc Midi.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krame*
> 
> Made a couple changes to my Arc Midi.


Love this!


----------



## VansNL

hi, guys

now i remove my filter, and a new cover see on the image.
I still have a hole drilled in the size 103 MM for the white fan


----------



## Otterpops

Im loving the look of these cases, Might be getting the Arc Mini for my next build.


----------



## Corrupt

Got it for $60 on black friday. Arc Midi


----------



## activ228

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Corrupt*
> 
> Got it for $60 on black friday. Arc Midi


oh nice where from?


----------



## Corrupt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *activ228*
> 
> oh nice where from?


Got it at NCIX


----------



## amorph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> Does anyone know if a 240 rad will fit up top in the Core 3000 case? I see it fits in the Arc Mini, but I'm interested in the 3000. Thanks!


Bump for an answer to this.

I'm thinking of getting the Core 3000 (I prefer the look of it over the Arc Midi).

I want to get a H100, but from what i can see it looks like a 240mm rad will get in the way of the rear fan and the top bay. And it looks like it'll interfere with the top of the motherboard.

Has anyone been able to mod one in?

If it can't fit I'll probably get the Arc Midi.

EDIT: Would it be possible to remove both of the HDD cages and put the H100 rad in the front?


----------



## Track2

Hey Guys

Iv just bought myself the Arc midi and was wondering how easy it was to fully remove all the hard drive bays
If im able to fit 2 rads in there i will

Cheers


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Thinking about getting an Arc Midi but I have a few questions.

Can I install a H100 or H80 push/pull easily?
Are the doors pretty solid or flimsy?
How is the cable management on it?

I'll be using AP15s on the H100 and AP13s as case fans with 140-120mm reducers on the rear and side panel.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Scorpion49

So I'm finally done, I managed to stuff 120.5 worth of radiator in the Arc Mini with no cutting of the case, the only thing I had to do was drill out the rivets for the lower HDD cage. I'm going to replace the PCI slot covers with some black ones and I need to find new filter material for the front grille, that brillo pad stuff was terrible. A few more small mods and it will be perfect.










Cable management was a huge chore, it took longer than anything else to get done (my own fault, there was too much cables for the tiny case).


----------



## Xyphyr

Did a video for noise level comparison with side panel off and on to show how well it works.


----------



## ritz

Just a heads up for anyone thinking about getting a Define R3 - Newegg has a shellshocker deal for it today at 3:00PM PST for $79.99.

http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-11-352-013-_-11282011_4
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Thinking about getting an Arc Midi but I have a few questions.
> Can I install a H100 or H80 push/pull easily?
> Are the doors pretty solid or flimsy?
> How is the cable management on it?
> I'll be using AP15s on the H100 and AP13s as case fans with 140-120mm reducers on the rear and side panel.
> Thanks in advance.


An H100 can fit easily on the top, just be careful with the push/pull setup and RAM clearance. You could also drill out the rivets on the front HDD cage and install it there.
Cable management is great, I had no problems with it though I would have liked to have a few more tie down points on the back for zipties (I just used sticky clamps).
The rear panel has holes for 140/120mm fans, you'll only need a reducer for the side panel since it's 180/140mm.


----------



## polizei

Thanks for the heads up, I think I'm going to order the R3 today for $80, then use the Google $40 certificate to get it for a total of $60!!!


----------



## skwannabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ritz*
> 
> Just a heads up for anyone thinking about getting a Define R3 - Newegg has a shellshocker deal for it today at 3:00PM PST for $79.99.
> http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-11-352-013-_-11282011_4
> An H100 can fit easily on the top, just be careful with the push/pull setup and RAM clearance. You could also drill out the rivets on the front HDD cage and install it there.
> Cable management is great, I had no problems with it though I would have liked to have a few more tie down points on the back for zipties (I just used sticky clamps).
> The rear panel has holes for 140/120mm fans, you'll only need a reducer for the side panel since it's 180/140mm.


I assuming its the same for the R3 as well for H100 compatibility..?


----------



## falcon26

Does the Arctic Cooling Xtreme Plus 2 fit in this case with a GTX 580?


----------



## cgull

Hi guys

great to see this thread .. can i join your club?

I've had the define r3(usb2.0) for a while now and it still impresses me.I clean the dust filters every few weeks and sometimes open the case just for a look inside.

I love this case, a classic scandinavian black and white beauty,cool and elegant. Named her Ingrid.

All my case fans are fractal ,would like their psu ,the modular ones look awsome.
anybody know if theres an aussie distributor? can get one from the uk but delivery is kinda heavy.

no mods planned 'cos its perfect.

A window would be nice but then it wouldnt be as quiet , which was what drew me to this case in the first place. Spent ages mulling over different brands but the look, features , size and price made it a no-brainer in the end.How many mid- towers could fit 8-9 drives?

Only issue was easily fixed: cleaning the 140mm bottom fan filter/holder meant flipping the case over to remove the screws, then opening side panel to get it out, then the reverse to put it back. Now I use a magnet filter(demci) on the bottom , just slides out. might get some more for the top and sides

the arc mid tower would be nice to mod tho , reckon a big side window and some bling would look great.

anyway heres my boring black pearl r3


----------



## BigRuss

I've just bought a define R3 case on the strength of the comments and pics on here.

It's my first build and I've got a couple of questions that you guys might be able to help with:

1. I've got a media card reader with headphone/mic sockets running off my HD audio connector on the motherboard. Is it possible for me to get a splitter to use the case sockets as well? Is there another way I've missed?

2. My motherboard doesn't have a 20pin USB 3.0 header on it. Has anyone used a PCI card withthis header to add these ports? Is there one that also has 2 USB 3 on the back of it?

Thanks for any help, there are Some great cases on here, I hope mine is half as good.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Hi everyone, I am planning on going about with getting a Fractal Midi to replace my humungous HAF-X. http://www.overclock.net/t/1176644/fractal-midi-vs-carbide-500r-vs-anything-else-you-can-offer/10#post_15823657

And I am going to do a window mod on it. But this will be the very first mod I am going to tackle.
So, just to clarify these are the steps taken right?:

1) draw out window outline
2) cut out window outline with dremel and sand
3) get acrylic
4)....... .......

So, here's the question, how to you guys actually go about attaching windows to your cases? Do you glue them or attach rubber gromets and slot the acrylic in between them?

I might even be planning to replace the entire side panel entirely and get a black acrylic, but have absolutely no idea how to go about doing that LOL.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigRuss*
> 
> I've just bought a define R3 case on the strength of the comments and pics on here.
> It's my first build and I've got a couple of questions that you guys might be able to help with:
> 1. I've got a media card reader with headphone/mic sockets running off my HD audio connector on the motherboard. Is it possible for me to get a splitter to use the case sockets as well? Is there another way I've missed?
> 2. My motherboard doesn't have a 20pin USB 3.0 header on it. Has anyone used a PCI card withthis header to add these ports? Is there one that also has 2 USB 3 on the back of it?
> Thanks for any help, there are Some great cases on here, I hope mine is half as good.


Since your mobo doesnt have usb 3 you would need a pci adapter card, most of them only have 2 or 4 ports on the card but no socket for the 20 pin header from the case front.

silverstone do have an adapter that does have the socket , but no ports on the card itself

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=301&area=en

I'd go with the silverstone , and use the header from the case front and if you needed more usb3 ports on the back then get the normal adapters as well.

As far as the audio issue not sure if there is a ready made splitter or if it would actually work, you could make one from scratch, but do you actually want to use 2 headphones at the same time? You can get headphone splitters for that easily.. Personally I'd use either the case header or the one the ones on the card reader but not both..Maybe an add in sound card would provide 2 headers?

hope this helps


----------



## Otterpops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Hi everyone, I am planning on going about with getting a Fractal Midi to replace my humungous HAF-X. http://www.overclock.net/t/1176644/fractal-midi-vs-carbide-500r-vs-anything-else-you-can-offer/10#post_15823657
> And I am going to do a window mod on it. But this will be the very first mod I am going to tackle.
> So, just to clarify these are the steps taken right?:
> 1) draw out window outline
> 2) cut out window outline with dremel and sand
> 3) get acrylic
> 4)....... .......
> So, here's the question, how to you guys actually go about attaching windows to your cases? Do you glue them or attach rubber gromets and slot the acrylic in between them?
> I might even be planning to replace the entire side panel entirely and get a black acrylic, but have absolutely no idea how to go about doing that LOL.


Cut hole, C-channel, thick double sided 3m tape to hold window on.
the c-channel is just to clean up the edge, and the tape is nice because it's more than strong enough but if you ever decide you want to change something, its much easier to remove then if you use glue.


----------



## polizei

Just a heads up!

Fractal Arc Midi on sale for $85 at Newegg, free shipping.

http://promotions.newegg.com/neemail/dec-0-2011/wintersale01/index-landing.html?nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL120111&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL120111-_-EMC-120111-Index-_-E0-_-SeeAll

Promo Code: EMCJHKJ24

Side note* My R3 should be here today!


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterpops*
> 
> Cut hole, C-channel, thick double sided 3m tape to hold window on.
> the c-channel is just to clean up the edge, and the tape is nice because it's more than strong enough but if you ever decide you want to change something, its much easier to remove then if you use glue.


I did some research as well. And I think it is called U-channel







It's gonna be hard to find that I believe


----------



## Exburn

I'm getting my Arc Midi tomorrow. I will probably post pictures during Sunday. Anyone know where to get some good/ sleeving? I *think* I will sleeve ALL my cables.


----------



## polizei

Have you looked into ModRight? I saw another members Arc Midi with white ModRight cables and it looks fantastic. I don't want to spend the money personally, but they sure look nice.


----------



## BigRuss

Thanks cgull.

I'll get myself one of those silverstone expansion cards, that should do nicely!


----------



## ekg84

I have some modright extensions and i'd recommend NZXT or Bitfenix Alchemy over modright, as those are better quality.


----------



## ritz

For extensions it's really BitFenix > NZXT > Modright

For sleeving check out FTWPC or MDPC-X


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ritz*
> 
> For extensions it's really BitFenix > NZXT > Modright
> 
> For sleeving check out FTWPC or MDPC-X


I would hit up Lutro0 for extensions, his work is top notch. Custom made in the colors you want. I was very impressed when I got mine.


----------



## Sync0r

I'm currently moving my rig to the Arc Midi. I have removed the drive cages from the front and replaced them with a push/pull 280mm rad with spacers! So much room to play with









Very pleased with the case so far, I'll add some pictures when its finished.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I would hit up Lutro0 for extensions, his work is top notch. Custom made in the colors you want. I was very impressed when I got mine.


+1


----------



## polizei

Well, I got my R3 Thursday, and I got my GPU back from RMA yesterday. Finally got everything up and running. I'm running the R3 with the two front Fractal fans, the rear exhaust and side intake as Cooler Master silent fans (120mm). I'll eventually pick up another couple of fans, mount those on the top, and put an H80 in the rear. So far, this case has a LOT of room to work, and is REALLY quiet. The only "harp" I have about the case is the fact that the HDD cage isn't removable. I know I can drill the rivits, but honestly I don't want to mess with it.

So far so good! What an awesome case.


----------



## surfbumb

R3 arrived a few days ago...the build quality is fantastic...I'm thinking of having 4 fans total...two as intake...two attached to an h80 out the rear...is that enough for adequate airflow?


----------



## toyz72

here's my mini. i will be adding a evga 560ti ftw 448 core on monday.


----------



## Exburn

Add me to the club. Here is my new Arc Midi which arrived at Friday!

Specs:
X6 1055T @ 3,5 ghz + CoolIT Vantage ALC cooler
m4a89gtd pro/usb3
Sapphire 6970 (non-reference)
8 GB kingston 1333 mhz cl7
Samsung SP F3 1TB
Crucial C300 64GB
Silver Power 750W modular


----------



## jeffblute

Very clean setup


----------



## ekg84

Just installed my custom made OD bays/psu cover on my Core 1000, what do u guys think?



Also finished a clear side panel for it:


----------



## falcon26

How much room do you have power supply cables in the XL

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk


----------



## toyz72

whats the largest cooler we can fit in an arc mini and still be able to get the door on? i really need to switch to a tower cooler for my set up. thinking of trying out a positive pressure set up.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Just installed my custom made OD bays/psu cover on my Core 1000, what do u guys think?


I really like what you did there man. Looks a lot better hiding those cables (as I know what it looked like before from your other thread) even though you sleeved them all lol. I am definately interested in making some sort of cover for my psu in my Core 3000 which I plan to get soon!


----------



## densulim

Hi all, I have a R3 size you can put the motherboard?


----------



## jeffblute

With the Fractal R3's you can put Mini ITX, Micro ATX and ATX size motherboards.
I wouldn't go any larger you wont have the standoffs for the board and will start running into sizing issues in the case.


----------



## Johnsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Also finished a clear side panel for it:


How in the world did you make that sidepannel? I mean how does it "grip" to the case? Looks like heaven!

EDIT: Also - how did you tin it? With som folio or?


----------



## ekg84

its actually not as hard as it seems, i used a piece of smoked acrylic which i bought from Mnpctech.com several months ago, i had to cut mine and sand edges but there are websites where u can order a sheet of acrylic cut to size you need. Then i just drilled 6 holes in it and used thumbscrews to mount it.


----------



## Bill Owen

I just finished this Arc for Fractal-Design's booth at 2012 CES with 3M Di-Noc Carbon Fiber sheet applied to the Asus Sabertooth P67 and Power Supply.


----------



## stimr2

Saw pics on Fractal Design's facebook page. It definitely looks awesome and clean.


----------



## ChesterCat

Stock with no mods. *Quiet as a "church mouse"..........VERY quiet*.

You'd have to dig deep to find many faults with these case's


----------



## VRFour

How easy is it to clean the filters on the R3? I really love the design but the filters on the Antec P280 seem much better thought out


----------



## polizei

Just unscrew the 4 screws and pop them out, then wash them. Not hard at all.


----------



## densulim

i have R3 white artic this is cool casee!!! and good price


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VRFour*
> 
> How easy is it to clean the filters on the R3? I really love the design but the filters on the Antec P280 seem much better thought out


I use the brush attachment on the Dyson. _No un-screwing_


----------



## stimr2

I do the same thing ChesterCat does and it works pretty well.


----------



## VRFour

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I use the brush attachment on the Dyson. _No un-screwing_


Good to know! I'm pretty sure this is my next case:thumb:


----------



## Jon A. Silvers

I just got black pearl ,define r3,and I am a little disappointed in it,Capabilities are very good,but build quality of the case is not nearly as my antec p182eu,and I had paid for antec 120e and for FD 86e.Everything except build quality is likable on it.Will post pics when I assemble rig.
....with time spending with it,its a decent built case with a lot of options. Not regretting anymore for buying it,I expected too much ,like lian li workmanship.


----------



## Kaneda13

anyone managed to put a 120MM rad at the bottom of an Arc Mini, just curious if anyone has any pics of it in a loop, fitment, routing, etc..


----------



## MrAlex

Does anyone know how to remove one of the front panels on the Core 3000 to be able to put a DVD drive in? I've tried everything but it just won't remove itself! There aren't any instructions either.


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all,
I'm almost sold on the Arc Midi (unless the tests of the Bitfenix Raider shows a huge perf/noise gap).

I have one question owners may answer: do you think the Arc Midi with a side fan will allow a Thermalright Archon ? A Silver Arrow ? A Macho ?

Thanks ! MaX.


----------



## Volkswagen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm almost sold on the Arc Midi (unless the tests of the Bitfenix Raider shows a huge perf/noise gap).
> I have one question owners may answer: do you think the Arc Midi with a side fan will allow a Thermalright Archon ? A Silver Arrow ? A Macho ?
> Thanks ! MaX.


It should fit just fine. May not be able to use the side fan but the HSF should fit.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volkswagen*
> 
> It should fit just fine. May not be able to use the side fan but the HSF should fit.


Thanks, but my question was with the side fan.
The side fan is one of the advantages of the Arc Midi over the Bitfenix Raider: if it turns out that I can't use it with an Archon, then ...

MaX.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Personally not going to care about the side fan lol. The case looks waay too good to go without having a window. Soo...... Bye bye side fan, hello Window!











Here's the draft window shape I made. How does this look?
Just waiting for the U-Channel to arrive and get the acrylic, So I can mount it on the cutout


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

I agree, FD cases would look nice with a side window, at least as an option for those who prefer the window over the black with a side fan.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*


lol cool totem pole you got there


----------



## piraveen22

Hey there u guys seem like experts on these cases : define r3 black pearl and the arc midi or mini.... i just want to know if i can changet the front power led colour to black instead of the blue one... is there any ways?....

Thanks in advance


----------



## piraveen22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TekJoe*
> 
> All of these photos were taken on a Samsung Galaxy S2!


hey man u seemed to have changed the front power led may i know how u did that?


----------



## piraveen22

bump


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> bump


No needs for multi posts....patience grasshopper.


----------



## piraveen22

sorry about that, its urgent thats why


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> sorry about that, its urgent thats why


Planning ahead and taking the time to do proper research will prevent situations like this.







It's not like you have to know right this second or else...







You will get your answer soon enough.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> Hey there u guys seem like experts on these cases : define r3 black pearl and the arc midi or mini.... i just want to know if i can changet the front power led colour to black instead of the blue one... is there any ways?....
> Thanks in advance


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> hey man u seemed to have changed the front power led may i know how u did that?


Black? U wanna change your front power LED to black? You mean remove the Power LED? Just dont plug it in then.


----------



## bobfig

well guys ill be joining this club in about 16 more days. i and getting the fractal designs R3 for christmas. its sitting in the dinning room at the moment but as you know i cant have it till then.


----------



## piraveen22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> Hey there u guys seem like experts on these cases : define r3 black pearl and the arc midi or mini.... i just want to know if i can changet the front power led colour to black instead of the blue one... is there any ways?....
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> hey man u seemed to have changed the front power led may i know how u did that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Black? U wanna change your front power LED to black? You mean remove the Power LED? Just dont plug it in then.
Click to expand...

sorry for the mistake i mean red....


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> .... i just want to know if i can changet the front power led colour to black instead of the blue one... is there any ways?....




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> its urgent thats why


----------



## piraveen22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*


I know i was being impatient some one has already told me so i am sorry about that, but no need to repeat it.... might have been useful if you had replyed with a helpful post.....


----------



## jeffblute

you pop the front panel off (there should be 3 - 4 tabs on each side of the case you need to push from inside the case) Once you get that off you unscrew the the small board that holds the power button and change that small LED. Think you need the smaller 3mm one.


----------



## Andrew Colvin

My Fractal Define Mini server build!


----------



## tonyw

I envy you people with such neat wiring...I guess I should spend some more time tomorrow with the cabling...


----------



## Kaneda13

Anyone know a vendor in the US that sells the Fractal 120mm case fans? looking for one more for my lower intake.


----------



## Greg.Steele

I just called fractal USA and had them ship them to me.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrew Colvin*
> 
> My Fractal Define Mini server build!


Aren't the hard drives...backwards? I think cable management would be better if you flipped them around. Just my







.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> well guys ill be joining this club in about 16 more days. i and getting the fractal designs R3 for christmas. its sitting in the dinning room at the moment but as you know i cant have it till then.


Everything has it's flaws. Christmas has the most tempting of them.


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Aren't the hard drives...backwards? I think cable management would be better if you flipped them around. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


If it's a server, cable management wont matter to much. By having it that way it would be easier to swap the Hds later on.
That stock cpu cooler is what bothers me, BUT that is because I strive to make a quiet system









Otherwise very nice Mini


----------



## polizei

I'm running a stock cooler on my rig and it's super quiet. I'm quite impressed so far.


----------



## Andrew Colvin

I need to swap them out sometimes, it is just a G620 processor that is silent and gives off no heat. I have the computer on 24/7 4 feet from my bed and I can beaaarly hear it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> Aren't the hard drives...backwards? I think cable management would be better if you flipped them around. Just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## VansNL

here is mijn Core 1000 photoshoot, it is not the best camera .

*SPEC*
Intel P4 3.o
Intel E210882
Hitachi Deskstar 7K1000 640GB SATA2
Coolermaster Silent pro 500 (LOL i had not a ohter Power Supplie)
MSI NX6200AX-TD512H
Adata DDR400 2x1GB


----------



## Cheshire

Nice case.
How did you manage to remove the frontpanel dustfilter and those plastic bars in front of the fan?

Thanks.

I'll post some pics of my build asap (E3-1220 / P8P67M PRO/ GTX560 etc) in a FD Core 1000...
Great case, but you're very limited in the choice for a CPU-cooler.


----------



## Deep1923

hi there :

heres mine:

Updated already the hardware to ASUS Maximus Extreme Z , 2xASUS 580GTX and new PSU (AX850)..I will left the Arc for Obsidian 650/800D ^^


----------



## VansNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheshire*
> 
> Nice case.
> How did you manage to remove the frontpanel dustfilter and those plastic bars in front of the fan?
> Thanks.
> I'll post some pics of my build asap (E3-1220 / P8P67M PRO/ GTX560 etc) in a FD Core 1000...
> Great case, but you're very limited in the choice for a CPU-cooler.


behind the fronterpanel are small black plates to hold them, you have to bend over al the plates, than you can remove them.

And remove the ugly plastic bars. I did witch a jig saw. and sanding down.


----------



## Greg.Steele

My latest build


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg.Steele*
> 
> My latest build


Very nice build my man, one of the better FD Minis I've seen here- well done


----------



## VRFour

Are there any rumors about a new R3 update? I'd love to see part of the HDD cage be removable like they have in the Mini and the Arc


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg.Steele*
> 
> My latest build
> *snip*


Damn. Nice.


----------



## Febreze

Arc Mini


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Febreze*
> 
> Arc Mini


I like that window- nice









I wish FD at least had an option for windowed side panels.


----------



## Volkswagen

Greg.Steele- nice build







Front Filter mod looks like mines. Can you post a picture of the back side of your case with the side panel off so I can see your cabling...Been thinking of ordering some psu extensions for my self as well but concerned with the limited space in the back. From what I can see it is possible though


----------



## Febreze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> I like that window- nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish FD at least had an option for windowed side panels.


Thanks mate. The window only shows the GPU, and the heatsink. I hate when windows show the PSU and the HDD Cages.


----------



## surfbumb

febreze...very very clean build...im guessing you put your lone hdd in the optical bay? I'll probably do that for my r3 build soon.


----------



## ChesterCat

Spent the last 2-3 weeks tweaking and adjusting the mobo's performance. In a quest to
maximize cooling, I removed the 2 HD cages. Rivited the SSD platform to the rear of case floor.
Then hung a storage drive below optical cage. Total unrestricted flow for the 2 front 120's.
Being that the fan wash ain't slamming into cages.....quieter too.


----------



## Febreze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> febreze...very very clean build...im guessing you put your lone hdd in the optical bay? I'll probably do that for my r3 build soon.


Thanks =D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Spent the last 2-3 weeks tweaking and adjusting the mobo's performance. In a quest to
> maximize cooling, I removed the 2 HD cages. Rivited the SSD platform to the rear of case floor.
> Then hung a storage drive below optical cage. Total unrestricted flow for the 2 front 120's.
> Being that the fan wash ain't slamming into cages.....quieter too.


Are the Noctua fans more quiet than the stock fans?


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Febreze*
> 
> Thanks =D
> Are the Noctua fans more quiet than the stock fans?


When you're spending a decent amount of money for a new build....

You don't wanna skimp on anything.....just not worth it.

I bought the case, cause it has tons of positive reviews and the size of the
case itself was just perfect. And at $100, was a no brainer.

BUT, the case just sits there in a static state, and the fans are constantly
spinning around, doing their thing. If anything could be a "risk" , it was
certainly the fans. Basically, we have NO long term reviews or data that
could indicate the quality of said fans. Not worth the risk.

I have no idea what kinda sound those fractal's put out. They were
replaced as part of the initial build. I've used Noctua's on several box's
and given nothing but positive results. Plus, they hardly make any sound
[which is extremely important to me]

Why gamble ?


----------



## polizei

I use two Fractal 120mm fans and 2 Cooler Master fans. Mine is super quiet, even with both of the case-sides off.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103052

Certainly not the best fans...but if you're on a budget it's hard to beat $3/ea.


----------



## deejay500sl

My Rig:
Q9550
EP45-UD3P
4GB OCZ REAPERS 1066MHz
HX-650W
MSI 5770 HAWK
ANTEC KUHLER 620
FRACTAL R3
CRUCIAL 128GB SSD
ANTEC SPOT COOL100


----------



## falcon26

Can you remove the Top fan on the XL case? Also can you use 120MM fans instead of the 140MM in the case?


----------



## polizei

I have an R3, but I'm assuming they are the same. The fans can be removed, and you can use 120 or 140.


----------



## StormX2

well thats a dissapointment - I came in here hoping to see Beautiful Fractals, Laser Etched into glass or something cool

Instead, I see Blank boring over priced Cases ^.^


----------



## falcon26

I love boring


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> , Laser Etched into glass


Sorry to hear you're disappointed.....but I have some "mint" Disco Shirts I could sell you.

or maybe...... a slightly used Pee Wee Herman Doll ??


----------



## Sync0r

Here's my Arc Midi setup.

Specs:
Intel 2600k @ 5.1Ghz (Cooled via Hardware Labs Black Ice GT Xtreme 280mm Rad and EK Supreme HF CPU block)
ASRock P67 Extreme 4
12Gb G.Skill Ripjaws 1600
Gigabyte 580 GTX Super Overclock Edition (975 Core/1145 Memory)
SB Live X-Fi Fatality


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sync0r*
> 
> Here's my Arc Midi setup.
> Specs:
> Intel 2600k @ 5.1Ghz (Cooled via Hardware Labs Black Ice GT Xtreme 280mm Rad and EK Supreme HF CPU block)
> ASRock P67 Extreme 4
> 12Gb G.Skill Ripjaws 1600
> Gigabyte 580 GTX Super Overclock Edition (975 Core/1145 Memory)
> SB Live X-Fi Fatality


Only two posts....Welcome to OCN!















Very nice and excellent pics!







Go use rigbuilder and get that info in your sig!


----------



## polizei

Ok question:

When I was building my rig, I looked in my mobo manual and the Fractal manual. I can't seem to find out where to hook the USB 3.0 up in my R3. Does anyone know? Mobo is in the sig. Does it support it?


----------



## wot

Here's my r3, specs in my sig.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wot*
> 
> Here's my r3, specs in my sig.


Wow...that's a lot of hard drives.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polizei*
> 
> Ok question:
> When I was building my rig, I looked in my mobo manual and the Fractal manual. I can't seem to find out where to hook the USB 3.0 up in my R3. Does anyone know? Mobo is in the sig. Does it support it?


hi

I checked your mobo manual..it doesnt appear to have a usb 3 header on the board so you would need to get a pci adapter card

most of them only have 2 or 4 ports on the card but no socket for the 20 pin header from the case front.

silverstone do have an adapter that does have the socket , but no ports on the card itself

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=301&area=en

hope this helps


----------



## polizei

Thanks for the help. I was merely curious, I won't ever use it. I'll just tuck it behind the mobo and forget about it.









+rep though.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polizei*
> 
> Thanks for the help. I was merely curious, I won't ever use it. I'll just tuck it behind the mobo and forget about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep though.


but........ if you were to change your mind _[cause USB3.0 external hard dives are fast as heck]_ you can always grab yourself a usb3.0 card.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *polizei*
> 
> Thanks for the help. I was merely curious, I won't ever use it. I'll just tuck it behind the mobo and forget about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep though.


you're welcome

I'm in the same boat, dont have any usb 3 drives yet and all my pc's are gigabit networked so probably don't need usb3..tho a really fast flash drive would be cool/handy.
What I do need is more sata ports(upgrade to sata 6gb/s as well) ..my mobo only has 4,and i only really have access to 1 pcie slot due to my sli setup, so its a toss up between usb 3 or more sata.(unless i get a pcie riser cable and move a vga card )

asus used to make a card that had both but it was pcie x4 and besides its not really available anymore.

I'll wait and see if something pops up..and try to keep that upgrade itch under control..

thanks for the rep


----------



## azeller09

Here is mine








Specs:
Intel i5 750 @ 4.0GHz
Radeon HD 5850
Corsair XMS3 1600MHz 4gb
Corsair TX 650
Crappy 1tb HDD + 120gb old HDD


----------



## toyz72

i got my h100 installed ,along my my 560ti 448. i think i have my cooling pretty balanced out now.


----------



## Bill Owen

Here is the video of the Arc Midi I modified for Fractal-Design


----------



## YangerD

What are the main differences between the Mini and Midi?


----------



## azeller09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> What are the main differences between the Mini and Midi?


Midi has 7 PCI slots instead of 2, uses 140mm fans instead of 120mm, and is bigger.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> What are the main differences between the Mini and Midi?


To be honest, not a whole lot. Besides the small size difference, the Midi supports ATX, mATX, and mITX boards, 8 HDDs, 7+1 expansion slots, and more 140mm fans.

The Mini only supports mATX and mITX boards, 6 HDDs, 4+1 expansion slots, and 120mm fans except for the top and side fans (140mm).

Both have USB 3.0 support on the front panel, removable/rotatable hard drive cage, and should have room to go water if wanted. Other than that, they are quite similar cases- both kickass


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Got my window mod in







Just waiting for my Lutro extensions to arrive in a day or 2.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Very nice window- I wish FD had an option for windowed side panels, but I don't mind doing a bit of modding


----------



## piraveen22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Got my window mod in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just waiting for my Lutro extensions to arrive in a day or 2.


Hey i was wondering ho you did that and what is the rubber thing you used around the cut out edges?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piraveen22*
> 
> Hey i was wondering ho you did that and what is the rubber thing you used around the cut out edges?


Not really pointed to me, but you can cut window with dremel, jigsaw, angle grinder or water jet cutter to name a few ways. And the "rubber thing" is u-channel molding.


----------



## piraveen22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Not really pointed to me, but you can cut window with dremel, jigsaw, angle grinder or water jet cutter to name a few ways. And the "rubber thing" is u-channel molding.


thanks rep+


----------



## sloppyjoe123

use set square to measure out everything. I made sure I do not see the HDD bays, and leave enough metal around the hole so that you can stick the acrylic behind it.

I use 4010 3M tape to tape the acrylic.
Used a dremel and jigsaw to cut it out. then hand-filed the edges down. *Youtube, basic case mods window* and watch the one by mnpc. steps are there.

The window size I used is 10inch by 12 inch. and I used the tape as a template to do the rounded edges. You wanna leave half an inch at least around the edge of the hole.


----------



## falcon26

I wish their was a pace that could add a custom window for you.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I wish their was a pace that could add a custom window for you.


http://www.mnpctech.com --- will mod your panel at their facility

http://www.frozencpu.com --- has pre-made side panels for SPECIFIC models


----------



## piraveen22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> use set square to measure out everything. I made sure I do not see the HDD bays, and leave enough metal around the hole so that you can stick the acrylic behind it.
> I use 4010 3M tape to tape the acrylic.
> Used a dremel and jigsaw to cut it out. then hand-filed the edges down. *Youtube, basic case mods window* and watch the one by mnpc. steps are there.
> The window size I used is 10inch by 12 inch. and I used the tape as a template to do the rounded edges. You wanna leave half an inch at least around the edge of the hole.


thanks rep+


----------



## macarule

my new ARC








just a question, how do you get the front to show just 2 fan holes? and not the whole fan?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> my new ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a question, how do you get the front to show just 2 fan holes? and not the whole fan?


you have to remove the filter, and cut the plastic bracing behind the filter.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> my new ARC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a question, how do you get the front to show just 2 fan holes? and not the whole fan?


Looks great! How do you like the Arc vs the K62? I can take the unused Silverstone AP off your hands.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> you have to remove the filter, and cut the plastic bracing behind the filter.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


but see how you can only see the blades of your fans? have you got a custom cover in there aswell? because if i did it to mine i would be able to see the whole fan not just the blades.
Quote:


> Looks great! How do you like the Arc vs the K62? I can take the unused Silverstone AP off your hands.


it was alot easier to build in than the K62, but the stock fans defiantly need upgrading they suck!

Water cooling capabilities
Better build quality
Easier to build in
nah im probably gonna mod it in somewhere


----------



## solsamurai

Cool, glad you like it!







I'm looking at the Arc Midi or the 650D for my next case. The K62 was good for learning with my first build but there are so many better options out there.


----------



## macarule

Yeah i was tossing up between the 2 but i got the ARC the price difference is quite big and i think the ark is better for water cooling in my opinion







the ARC doesn't have a window but ill make my own when i can be bothered







anyway i took out my dust filters and plastic supports with wires cutters and my trusty victorinox


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> but see how you can only see the blades of your fans? have you got a custom cover in there aswell? because if i did it to mine i would be able to see the whole fan not just the blades.


Yes, i took a piece of thin cardboard, cut out the 2 wholes just the size of the fan blades, and painted it flat black, installed it between the front bezel and the metal mesh.


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi guys, great theread here !









I'm definitely going to buy a midi soon (winter sales starting soon in france). I'm not a big fan of watercooling (nor I plan to have massive OC), hence I'll install something in between a thermalright macho and a silver wing (more than enough for a 2500k), depending on the prices I can find around.

Was just wondering if having two front fans (in) and 1 back one (out) is a better config than the default one (1 front in, 1back out, 1 top out).
Dust-wise, positive pressure should be more interesting, right ? Any idea ?

MaX.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi guys, great theread here !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm definitely going to buy a midi soon (winter sales starting soon in france). I'm not a big fan of watercooling (nor I plan to have massive OC), hence I'll install something in between a thermalright macho and a silver wing (more than enough for a 2500k), depending on the prices I can find around.
> 
> Was just wondering if having two front fans (in) and 1 back one (out) is a better config than the default one (1 front in, 1back out, 1 top out).
> Dust-wise, positive pressure should be more interesting, right ? Any idea ?
> 
> MaX.


That's what I'd do, have 2 fans intake and one exhaust. The fans on the cooler also help to exhaust the air out of the case.


----------



## macarule

yeah i agree, 2 intake 1 exhaust!


----------



## HornetMaX

another question for the owners with the two intake fans in the front visible (removed dust filter): how about the dust coming in ? Too much ?
Did you install any additional mesh filter or you only have the honeycomb-like in the front ?

MaX.


----------



## macarule

i only have the mesh, and ive only had the case for a day so i cant really comment haha, i clean my ps out quite often so it shouldn't be too bad


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> another question for the owners with the two intake fans in the front visible (removed dust filter): how about the dust coming in ? Too much ?
> Did you install any additional mesh filter or you only have the honeycomb-like in the front ?
> 
> MaX.


That one really depends on how much dust you have in your home and how often you clean your case. If you're worried, there are dust filters that can be mounted directly to fans, so you could have the dustfilters inside your case screwed on your intake fans.


----------



## falcon26

Should have my XL by tomorrow


----------



## Kaneda13

WOOT, my new memory upgrades kits showed up last night.


----------



## Greg.Steele

My new Build Based off of a Fractal Core 1000

Fractal Design Core 1000

Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z

Asus GTX580 Matrix Platinum 1.5GB

I5 2500k

ENERMAX ETD-T60 VEGAS

GSkill Sniper 12GB DDR1600

Samsung 830 SATAIII 128GB SSD

OCZ ZT Series 750 80plus Bronze Fully Modular PSU

2x 120mm Gelid PWM Silent fans - Front, Side
1x 92mm Gelid PWM Silent fan - Rear


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> another question for the owners with the two intake fans in the front visible (removed dust filter): how about the dust coming in ? Too much ?
> Did you install any additional mesh filter or you only have the honeycomb-like in the front ?
> 
> MaX.


The amount of dust you will collect on the filters, will depend a great deal
on how balanced your cases positive or negitive pressure works out. If you've
come close to having fans pushing in.....as well as the same amount pushing out =
you might not experience a severe dust issue. From the exterior, you can simply vacume
off the filters and any other areas dust is visable. Taking those fans off by unscrewing um.....is
a pain. Vacume works just fine


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg.Steele*
> 
> My new Build Based off of a Fractal Core 1000
> Fractal Design Core 1000
> Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z
> Asus GTX580 Matrix Platinum 1.5GB
> I5 2500k
> ENERMAX ETD-T60 VEGAS
> GSkill Sniper 12GB DDR1600
> Samsung 830 SATAIII 128GB SSD
> OCZ ZT Series 750 80plus Bronze Fully Modular PSU
> 2x 120mm Gelid PWM Silent fans - Front, Side
> 1x 92mm Gelid PWM Silent fan - Rear
> *snip*


More pictures.


----------



## cls33

I'm looking for a case to house a Gene-Z mATX build and I'm torn between the Arc Mini and Midi. The mini was obviously built to house my components, but I like having the flexibility to swap a full size motherboard in for a future upgrade... even if it does seem like a very big case.

Has anyone installed a mATX motherboard in a midi? Any thoughts?


----------



## macarule

The only problem i can see is the front panel connectors but even then, just run them behind the motherboard tray, through the cpu plate cut-out and under the motherboard and itll be just as neat


----------



## cls33

One other question... does anyone know where I can buy some more of the silent series fans Fractal includes with these cases? I can't seem to find them online anywhere...


----------



## Greg.Steele

Call Fractal Design USA ask for Ryan and he can help you. Number below.

For United States Technical Support we also have a phone number.
Please call 855-446-3722 (855-I-GO-FRAC) for direct service.

Rep+


----------



## Greg.Steele

Pictures that were requested


















































































































Pictures that were requested

Fractal Design Core 1000
Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z
Asus GTX580 Matrix Platinum 1.5GB
i5 2500k @ 4.2GHZ 24hr Prime 95 Max temp 65c
ENERMAX ETD-T60 VEGAS
GSkill Sniper 12GB DDR1600 1.25v
Samsung 830 SATAIII 128GB SSD
OCZ ZT Series 750 80plus Bronze Fully Modular PSU <---- replacing with a Corsair HX750 or AX650 because OCZ ZT 750 is way to loud!!!
2x 120mm Gelid PWM Silent fans - Front, Side
1x 92mm Gelid PWM Silent fan - Rear


----------



## wot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg.Steele*


That looks beautiful!!! Why 12gb ram?


----------



## Greg.Steele

Had 16GB total, but would not fit due to the huge CPU cooler, So its just running dual channel 12GB in the later 3 slots furthest from the CPU.


----------



## Volkswagen

Greg.Steele- nice looking system! Got any pictures of the back side- interested to see the cable management







Wonder how much smaller the case is compared to my arch mini- and if it would be possible to mount a H100 in the front?


----------



## Greg.Steele

lol there is no cable management on this case. the back panel is right up on the mobo tray so you can NOT run any cables behind it at all. All the cables I ran are in my pictures you can see all of them. I just made them tidy as hell. My Fractal Arc Mini has cable management though, just not the Fractal Core 1000.

You can mount a H100 on a Arc Mini, but not on core 1000

Its much smaller then the Arc Mini


----------



## 161029

@Greg

Thanks! I'm obessed with the core 1000. Is there only one front intake?


----------



## Greg.Steele

Yes only one, but paired with the Gelid PWM 120mm fans side/front its keeps my case nice and cold. I use my 140MM PSU and a Gelid 92mm rear for exhaust. been thinking of adding a custom bottom intake 120mm fan.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg.Steele*
> 
> Yes only one, but paired with the Gelid PWM 120mm fans side/front its keeps my case nice and cold. I use my 140MM PSU and a Gelid 92mm rear for exhaust. been thinking of adding a custom bottom intake 120mm fan.


wouldn't a custom second front intake be better?


----------



## 161029

From the looks of it, the only way to get a positive pressure setup is to have the back 92mm fan as an intake so it can be used for the CPU which will be pushed out by the PSU fan.

Unless you want to mod.


----------



## Greg.Steele

@ Blizlake yeah but there would need to be a whole lot of cutting in order to add a second front intake and then it still would not fit another 120mm, so it would look dumb. a bottom would be super easy to add.

@ Hybridcore I dont wanna turn the rear 92mm fan around because its so ugly turned around, so I will add a fan, just not sure where yet.
would dual 120mm stacked up work any better then a single? like a sandwich not on top of one another? I have room to do that now and no modding needed. The front fan by default is attached to the grill, but I did some modding and attached it to the chassis.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg.Steele*
> 
> @ Blizlake yeah but there would need to be a whole lot of cutting in order to add a second front intake and then it still would not fit another 120mm, so it would look dumb. a bottom would be super easy to add.
> 
> @ Hybridcore I dont wanna turn the rear 92mm fan around because its so ugly turned around, so I will add a fan, just not sure where yet.
> would dual 120mm stacked up work any better then a single? like a sandwich not on top of one another? I have room to do that now and no modding needed. The front fan by default is attached to the grill, but I did some modding and attached it to the chassis.


Oh I understand what you mean. I just measured it roughly and thought that there might be just enough space for another 120mm.

And "sandwiched" fans do push more air but the increase in airflow won't be linear (2 fans isn't double the airflow). But yeah, they'd pull more air. Maybe buy a fan that directs the airflow a bit, like s-flow blade or air penetrator.
We did similar tests in physics last year, I think the increase was around 20-30% IIRC.


----------



## Greg.Steele

Yeah I'll look into doing something along those lines then


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

My Arc Midi should be here sometime next week. Can anybody recommend me some easy mods to start me out. Going to WC it in the future so only going for small mods to start with.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> My Arc Midi should be here sometime next week. Can anybody recommend me some easy mods to start me out. Going to WC it in the future so only going for small mods to start with.


removing the filters and grills to show the fans is a great look if i do say so myself


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*


Kaneda, i dont think your pic is crappy by cell phone. . it is very clearly and no noise like snow dots in background picture. you're very lucky!









BTW: your compact rig is super-neat!


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *masonkian*
> 
> purchased the core 1000 mini as i needed a very small case
> well happy with the quality for such a low price
> had a lot to cram into it
> have since replaced the fan on the arctic cooler to a coolermaster sickleflow


Neatly set up, Masonk!


----------



## 161029

I should remove the filter too if I get one. I can't get over that white. I'm painting my fans white if they're not already.


----------



## bobfig

well guys tomorrow i should be moving into my define R3. the rest of my water cooling stuff should be getting here







its not going to be a pretty move but it should work. when i get more money i will be modding the case with a smoked window, matching fans, sleeved extensions, and maybe some red lights. ill have to play it by ear.


----------



## toyz72

i was wondering if anyone has made an attemp at putting an h100 in the front of the arc mini? if so, i would really like to see a picture of this for reference. i have mine mounted in the top, but would love to move it to the front for a push/pull setup. if anyone comes accross a picture or has this setup plz let me know. thx


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i was wondering if anyone has made an attemp at putting an h100 in the front of the arc mini? if so, i would really like to see a picture of this for reference. i have mine mounted in the top, but would love to move it to the front for a push/pull setup. if anyone comes accross a picture or has this setup plz let me know. thx


You have to pop the bottom hdd cage off and move it towards rear to be able to have a 240 rad on the front. You should check the lenght though, the hoses on those coolers arent from the longest end. They're like 11" long.


----------



## intrasonic

Took some pictures of my custom acrylic side panel. I used a sheet of tinted acrylic cut to size and then glued on some aluminium angle and magnets to keep it secured. Hard to explain but check out the photos to see how it works.

Tinted Acrylic Side Panel. Lights Off.


Lights On






Side Panel Construction


Side Panel Off


----------



## 161029

It looks so epic. I think covers for the stuff like the PSU or HDD cages would really make it shine though.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intrasonic*
> 
> Took some pictures of my custom acrylic side panel. I used a sheet of tinted acrylic cut to size and then glued on some aluminium angle and magnets to keep it secured. Hard to explain but check out the photos to see how it works.


NICELY done. this may be something i myself will look into doing.


----------



## VRFour

Just got my Define Mini in the mail today and when I went remove the HDD cage, two of the HDD cage feet fell off! Is this a common occurance? I tried screwing them back in but the screws are either stripped, too short, or the hole is too big.

Other than that, I'm very impressed with the case and can't wait for my PSU to arrive (last thing I'm waiting on) so I can build this bad boy.

Lastly, does anyone know if the Define Mini's door will close with a NZXT Sentry fan controller installed flush to the front? My knob style Lamptron fan controller doesn't allow the door to close all the way


----------



## lolmont

how is the air flow/quietness on the XL was thinking of getting one or P280.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolmont*
> 
> how is the air flow/quietness on the XL was thinking of getting one or P280.


With the stock fans its very quiet although there isn't a huge amount of airflow. If you fill up the rest of the fan slots it's still quiet but cools everything pretty well from my experience. If you wanted a bit better airflow you could always swap the fans out for GT's or something along those lines - it would still be quiet enough but you'd have slightly better cooling.


----------



## lolmont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing*
> 
> With the stock fans its very quiet although there isn't a huge amount of airflow. If you fill up the rest of the fan slots it's still quiet but cools everything pretty well from my experience. If you wanted a bit better airflow you could always swap the fans out for GT's or something along those lines - it would still be quiet enough but you'd have slightly better cooling.


I'm really tight on money I would be able two buy two 120mm for the front area but would stock fans + two 120mm be good enough airflow I'm looking for a quiet LEDless case for my room as I hate the shine in your eyes at night lol


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolmont*
> 
> I'm really tight on money I would be able two buy two 120mm for the front area but would stock fans + two 120mm be good enough airflow I'm looking for a quiet LEDless case for my room as I hate the shine in your eyes at night lol


You'll only need to buy a 120MM and two 140MM fans if you want to fill every available space up. If you're not bothered about a side panel fan then you'll only need a 140MM and a 120MM for the front. With that and the top drive cage removed airflow is pretty good, keeps my rig cool enough, even with my CPU fan on minimum. You may find the power LED on the case to be a bit bright if you're sleeping in the same room, but you could always just unplug it or cover it up with something.


----------



## lolmont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing*
> 
> You'll only need to buy a 120MM and two 140MM fans if you want to fill every available space up. If you're not bothered about a side panel fan then you'll only need a 140MM and a 120MM for the front. With that and the top drive cage removed airflow is pretty good, keeps my rig cool enough, even with my CPU fan on minimum. You may find the power LED on the case to be a bit bright if you're sleeping in the same room, but you could always just unplug it or cover it up with something.


Alright thanks might get this case gonna look around a little more thanks for quick reply's +rep


----------



## bobfig

well guys its official.... i have moved in to my new R3. got the last parts i needed today from frozencpu.com in a brilla box so that i could migrate. was hard having the case for nearly 3 weeks and not able to use it. i still plan on getting new phobya nano-g fans and a smoked window. red led's were ordered last night so i can light up the case and change the blue power button to red.

no more waiting here are some picks that my awesome evo 4g phone took.













































and my old cm690 that's going out to the pasture.


----------



## Alpha_project

Thought I finally post a photo of my main rig. Just like many Define Xl owners, it is such a great case to work with.


----------



## Hillskill

Ordered mine from Quiet PC UK last week thanks to a generous Xmas gift from my brother. I can finally move my HTPC/Server build out from this old Coolermaster Wavemaster and get the thing run a ton quieter. In the end I went for one in Arctic White to be a bit different. Its a very wife friendly colour and nice change from the "xtreme" bravado of usual PC enthusiast kit. I was tempted to go full tower but they had the USB 2.0 model define R3 on a special of £70 which is a total bargain. Only downside is that they closed the office till 4th Jan so I won't have it till atleast the weekend. Should give me something to do


----------



## Kimir

Hello everyone,

I loved the R3 when my bro got his titanium one and wanted my next rig to be with that case so, here it is!
After I ordered everything I was like, "everything will fit in?". A stupid thought I should have had before lol, but well after few research it seems like Asus e-atx extreme MB fits and huge GTX580 too.
Here a pic:

You can see some more pics and the whole rig components in my profile of course.

If anyone ask you if an Asus Rampage E-ATX motherboard or a 29cm graphic card fit, feel free to link my photos.

Happy new year and best wishes to all of you


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I loved the R3 when my bro got his titanium one and wanted my next rig to be with that case so, here it is!
> After I ordered everything I was like, "everything will fit in?". A stupid thought I should have had before lol, but well after few research it seems like Asus e-atx extreme MB fits and huge GTX580 too.
> Here a pic:


Very nice! It's good to know the DH-14 can fit on one of those 2011 boards. Now to find someone who used the Silver Arrow....


----------



## macarule

Got my LEDs today









with monitor on:









with monitor off:


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VRFour*
> 
> Just got my Define Mini in the mail today and when I went remove the HDD cage, two of the HDD cage feet fell off! Is this a common occurance? I tried screwing them back in but the screws are either stripped, too short, or the hole is too big.
> Other than that, I'm very impressed with the case and can't wait for my PSU to arrive (last thing I'm waiting on) so I can build this bad boy.
> Lastly, does anyone know if the Define Mini's door will close with a NZXT Sentry fan controller installed flush to the front? My knob style Lamptron fan controller doesn't allow the door to close all the way


Mini owner myself:

I also noticed the screw hole issue. I've already stripped out the thumb-screws for the side panel.

I've accumulated so much hardware over the years, I simply replaced with a larger diameter thumb-screw =EZ
The shack used to sell "asst muti sized screw" kits [small box]. HomeDepot also has a good selection
of machined scews, but ya gotta dig thru the slide out trays in the screw dept.

The fan controller knob thangy is deff an issue. Had same problem as you with an older
Zalman I have.

Grabbed me an in-expensive one pictured below. Absolutely amazing cabling for such
a low cost product. Works great !!


----------



## VRFour

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Mini owner myself:
> I also noticed the screw hole issue. I've already stripped out the thumb-screws for the side panel.
> I've accumulated so much hardware over the years, I simply replaced with a larger diameter thumb-screw =EZ
> The shack used to sell "asst muti sized screw" kits [small box]. HomeDepot also has a good selection
> of machined scews, but ya gotta dig thru the slide out trays in the screw dept.
> The fan controller knob thangy is deff an issue. Had same problem as you with an older
> Zalman I have.
> Grabbed me an in-expensive one pictured below. Absolutely amazing cabling for such
> a low cost product. Works great !!


Thanks, Chester. I contact Fractal's support and they emailed me yesterday. I'm going to get some pictures of the issue to them and we'll see what they do from there.

Good to know about the NZXT controller, too... I think I'll pick that one up some time soon.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VRFour*
> 
> . I contact Fractal's support and they emailed me yesterday. .


One heck of a case for the price. I'm over getting pizzed at quality control issues. I find
my own repair abilities are better than OEM anyhow. Too dang impatient to be sending
stuff back-n-forth. Since wer'e going to be reliant to China for supplying us with "the goods"
then i'd suspect we'd all better get used to doing some of the less critical repairs ourselves.

Good luck at gettin' yer build underway !!!!!! ......and relax


----------



## bobfig

well i got my first mod done!! its not big or anything but changes the whole attitude of the case. also phone camera not all that good in poor lighting.


----------



## Corrupt

How do you clean the front dust filter? My Arc Midi below


----------



## macarule

With an air compressor









i completely removed the front dust filter


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> well i got my first mod done!! its not big or anything but changes the whole attitude of the case. also phone camera not all that good in poor lighting.
> *snip


I like it! I've actually unplugged my LED, the flickering was annoying me at night!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Finally got my Arc looking pretty clean. It was a bit of a challenge because I used sleeved extensions so there were loads more cables behind the motherboard tray but I think it turned out pretty good. I'll keep it as it is for a while and then I'll sleeve my psu. Thinking about getting some sleeved sata cables as well just to make it all match. Haven't taken any decent pics yet but I'll do that in a bit and upload them.


----------



## Aryus

arc midi can have 3 140 fans on top panel, if anyone ever tried to put it all?
I'm curious about the fan in top of ODD panel, does it have any good effect for cooling? (of course I will set it all for exhaust)


----------



## bobwas4

Hello i was just wondering about the fractal case arc midi or r3? in the front you can add 2x120mm fans can they fit 120x38mm fans?


----------



## kornu06

Hi everybody !
I'm french and i'm going to buy the lastest parts of my new computer soon. One of this part is the case. I hesitate between Fractal Arc Midi and Mini !
I have for now few parts :

Mobo: P8p67-m Pro (mATX)
GPU: Asus 560 TI Direct CU II TOP 900 MHz
RAM: DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Low Profile 2x 2 go 1600 mHz
CPU: Intel I5 2500k (is gonna be overclocked at 4.7 ghz)
Ventirad: Thermalright Silver Arrow (2xTY-140)
PSU: Be Quiet Straight Power 680W E8 Modular 80+ Silver
HDD: 1To Samsung F3

So, I draw a schem of the Fractal arc midi with those parts and extra fans (that i don't have again)



I put the GPU on the 2nd PCI-E x16 coz of silver arrow's size ! But I don't care, the 2nd PCI-e is running x16 too !

So, what do u think guys about this configuration and with GPU on 2nd PCI-e, should I stay on the fractal arc MIDI or should i go on Arc MINI ?
Which case has the better airflow ?

Bye !


----------



## jatontg

Hi guys,

Just got my Fractal Arc as a replacement for my 600T but I was expecting better temps. Any ideas how I can improve my temps?

I have 2 Fractal 140mm at the front intake, 1 exhaust at the back, 1 intake at the bottom and corsair H100 exhausting.

Idling 42 for the video card and 38 for the CPU...might be the warm aussie temperatures...

Suggestions?


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jatontg*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Just got my Fractal Arc as a replacement for my 600T but I was expecting better temps. Any ideas how I can improve my temps?
> I have 2 Fractal 140mm at the front intake, 1 exhaust at the back, 1 intake at the bottom and corsair H100 exhausting.
> Idling 42 for the video card and 38 for the CPU...might be the warm aussie temperatures...
> Suggestions?


well what temps were you getting in the 600t?


----------



## jatontg

I was idling low 30s for CPU, around 32-34 and high 30s for GPU 36-38


----------



## tjcad

Anyone have a problem with turning on the computer? I have a Fractal Design R3 and after a few weeks of used I am having trouble turning it on. When I press the power button it won't turn one. It will only turn on if I depress the power button and holding it for several seconds, sometimes that won't work, sometimes I have to depress the button and hold it for several seconds again and if that doesn't work I sometimes have to press the power button repeatedly. Anyone having the same problem of know how to fix it? Is it my case or the component in my case?

Thanks


----------



## AMDigger

My temps also got higher coming from an antec df-85.
I managed to lower my mobo and gpu's temps a bit by installing one of the 140mm fans on the side panel as intake.,
I suspect the stock fractal fans doesn't do a very good job cooling my system and i'll replace them as soon as i can.


----------



## Shrak

Just my XL, nothing fancy. Waiting for sleeving to get here so I can sleeve all my cables.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tjcad*
> 
> Anyone have a problem with turning on the computer? I have a Fractal Design R3 and after a few weeks of used I am having trouble turning it on. When I press the power button it won't turn one. It will only turn on if I depress the power button and holding it for several seconds, sometimes that won't work, sometimes I have to depress the button and hold it for several seconds again and if that doesn't work I sometimes have to press the power button repeatedly. Anyone having the same problem of know how to fix it? Is it my case or the component in my case?
> Thanks


Check the PWR cable connected to your M/B. It may be loose or damaged. It could also be the power button itself. Perhaps it's faulty and needs to be replaced.


----------



## IcyPimpHand

I have one question if you guys would be willing to answer it. I'm looking for a new M-ATX case, and I love how the Mini looks, I just wondering if someone would compare how big it is. I would really like a small case. I have the HAF922 and HATE how big it is.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcyPimpHand*
> 
> I have one question if you guys would be willing to answer it. I'm looking for a new M-ATX case, and I love how the Mini looks, I just wondering if someone would compare how big it is. I would really like a small case. I have the HAF922 and HATE how big it is.


The Arc Mini is a rather large mATX case, but a very nice one nonetheless. The Haf 922 is (HxWxL) 22.2" x 10" x 19.7" and the Mini is 19" x 8.2" x 15.9". To save the math, the difference is roughly 3" x 2" x 4".

So while the Mini is definitely a step down in size from your Haf, mATX cases come smaller. That Mini is bigger than my Core 3000


----------



## IcyPimpHand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> The Arc Mini is a rather large mATX case, but a very nice one nonetheless. The Haf 922 is (HxWxL) 22.2" x 10" x 19.7" and the Mini is 19" x 8.2" x 15.9". To save the math, the difference is roughly 3" x 2" x 4".
> So while the Mini is definitely a step down in size from your Haf, mATX cases come smaller. That Mini is bigger than my Core 3000


I defiantly did not think the Mini was bigger then the Core 3000. On another note, I like the size of the P180, but I can't find it anywhere. IS there a case like the size of the P180?


----------



## jatontg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDigger*
> 
> My temps also got higher coming from an antec df-85.
> I managed to lower my mobo and gpu's temps a bit by installing one of the 140mm fans on the side panel as intake.,
> I suspect the stock fractal fans doesn't do a very good job cooling my system and i'll replace them as soon as i can.


Thanks, I'll give that a try. I've been meaning to replace the stock fractal fans as well as removing the filters currently in place for better airflow. What fans have ppl replaced the stock fractal ones with?


----------



## Aryus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aryus*
> 
> arc midi can have 3 140 fans on top panel, if anyone ever tried to put it all?
> I'm curious about the fan in top of ODD panel, does it have any good effect for cooling? (of course I will set it all for exhaust)


add a picture, this is what I mean (red for exhaust and blue for intake)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aryus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aryus*
> 
> arc midi can have 3 140 fans on top panel, if anyone ever tried to put it all?
> I'm curious about the fan in top of ODD panel, does it have any good effect for cooling? (of course I will set it all for exhaust)
> 
> 
> 
> add a picture, this is what I mean (red for exhaust and blue for intake)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Effect will be minimal if there's any. Also, if you have more exhaust than intake your pressure will be negative which means more dust inside your case.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcyPimpHand*
> 
> I defiantly did not think the Mini was bigger then the Core 3000. On another note, I like the size of the P180, but I can't find it anywhere. IS there a case like the size of the P180?


NCIX carries that case. The Canada NCIX carries both black and white versions, while the US NCIX carries white.

http://www.ncix.com/search/?categoryid=0&q=mini+p180

http://us.ncix.com/search/?q=mini+p180


----------



## AMDigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jatontg*
> 
> Thanks, I'll give that a try. I've been meaning to replace the stock fractal fans as well as removing the filters currently in place for better airflow. What fans have ppl replaced the stock fractal ones with?


I wolud like to know that too as i had very little experience with 140mm fans..
Though to keep the overall theme of the case i think i wolud go with the NZXT FN-140's
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146002


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDigger*
> 
> I wolud like to know that too as i had very little experience with 140mm fans..
> Though to keep the overall theme of the case i think i wolud go with the NZXT FN-140's
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146002


I've replaced with some thermalright x-silent 140's


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDigger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jatontg*
> 
> Thanks, I'll give that a try. I've been meaning to replace the stock fractal fans as well as removing the filters currently in place for better airflow. What fans have ppl replaced the stock fractal ones with?
> 
> 
> 
> I wolud like to know that too as i had very little experience with 140mm fans..
> Though to keep the overall theme of the case i think i wolud go with the NZXT FN-140's
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146002
Click to expand...

I've seen Akasa Viper, Noctua P14, Silverstone air penetrator, Bitfenix Spectre, Cougar Vortex and Yate Loon used to name a few 140mm fans. Also countless 120mm fans like GT's and most of the aforesaid in 120mm too.


----------



## hoven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Stock with no mods. *Quiet as a "church mouse"..........VERY quiet*.
> You'd have to dig deep to find many faults with these case's


Wait, is that the R3? Since when the R3 include removable HDD trays like the Arc or Core 3000? All of the images I see on Google or Youtube don't have it. Hmm..
I'd love to see the HDD removable cage in the R3, looks a lot tidier and allows more airflow. Since i'd be using only one HDD.

The front fan doors in the R3 look way too restricted for any airflow IMO, but since i don't have the case, i can't tell for sure. Look forward to replace my CM elite 430.


----------



## Fusion Racing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoven*
> 
> Wait, is that the R3? Since when the R3 include removable HDD trays like the Arc or Core 3000? All of the images I see on Google or Youtube don't have it. Hmm..
> I'd love to see the HDD removable cage in the R3, looks a lot tidier and allows more airflow. Since i'd be using only one HDD.
> The front fan doors in the R3 look way too restricted for any airflow IMO, but since i don't have the case, i can't tell for sure. Look forward to replace my CM elite 430.


The door is nearly the same as the XL and from my experience the airflow is pretty good. Considering the idea of these cases is to run quieter, low CFM fans anyway it isn't an issue.

Isn't that the Define Mini in those pictures anyway? That has always had the removable HDD cages, its only the R3 that doesn't.


----------



## hoven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fusion Racing*
> 
> The door is nearly the same as the XL and from my experience the airflow is pretty good. Considering the idea of these cases is to run quieter, low CFM fans anyway it isn't an issue.
> Isn't that the Define Mini in those pictures anyway? That has always had the removable HDD cages, its only the R3 that doesn't.


Ahh I see, haven't looked up Define Mini before, and the (side) front bezel looks similar to the R3. Thanks for pointing that out.


----------



## cls33

I'm just polishing off a build using an Arc mini running an i5-2500k, Asus Gene-Z with Hyper Evo 212 cooler and I have a question about what direction I should face the CPU heatsink.

In addition to the CPU fan, I'm using two intake fans in the front of the case and an exhaust fan in the rear top port. Right now I have the CPU heatsink fan set up to blow air away from the heatsink and towards the exhaust port on the back of the case, but I've seen several pictures of builds where the fan is placed on the other side (towards the front of the case) and I assume, is pulling air from the front and blowing it over the heatsink.

Which is the generally accepted "better" way to go with these cases?


----------



## treeman

I love the look of Fractal Designs cases... Hopefully buying an Arc Midi soon or one of their full tower cases


----------



## 161029

They need a full tower Arc.


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> They need a full tower Arc.


Agreed!


----------



## Konkistadori

Fractal mini's organs.

(zip ties are added for reliability.. And there is ugly 45 degree fitting(and few other ugly things)... And fans are added there because single fan on back didint provide enough cooling for PWM/NB)


----------



## hstanford1

A question for any Arc Midi owners: It specifies that there's 290mm of clearance available, my card measures 292mm. Is there any wiggle room to fit my card?
This is an absolutely GORGEOUS case, if anyone has some good front shots, that'd be great. I'm digging through this thread trying to figure out if it looks as great as on the Fractal Design site

Cheers!


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hstanford1*
> 
> A question for any Arc Midi owners: It specifies that there's 290mm of clearance available, my card measures 292mm. Is there any wiggle room to fit my card?
> This is an absolutely GORGEOUS case, if anyone has some good front shots, that'd be great. I'm digging through this thread trying to figure out if it looks as great as on the Fractal Design site
> Cheers!


EVGA GTX 460 2win = 11.5" (based off newegg) = 29.21 cm (google) ~ 292 mm

Arc Midi GPU space w/ HDD cage = 290 mm

Arc Midi GPU space without HDD cage = 470 mm

Remove the HDD cage as I see you only have a F3 and nothing else (I don't know if you have more than one). Also allows unrestricted airflow.

Other than that, I didn't realize that card was that long.


----------



## Corrupt

Made some minor cable improvements. Before and after


----------



## 161029

Thanks for providing the pictures Corrupt.

@hstandford1 : remove the top HDD cage or bottom, whichever depending on where you place your card.


----------



## adi518

Got mine to go with a new rig I decided to build up.

Recently tho, I realized I need some new cables.. so until I get everything I need, here's a teaser shot of the back.










Since this photo it's gotten even better. The Seasonic velcros are sort of temporary, just to hold things in place before I make it more permanent with nicer cable management solutions.

Compare to what I've seen on other r3 rigs, I'm not gonna throw all the cables behind the motherboard tray. I actually realized you have lots of space to manage almost everything (inc the 24 pin) behind the hdd cage while relatively maintaining easy access to it.


----------



## hstanford1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> EVGA GTX 460 2win = 11.5" (based off newegg) = 29.21 cm (google) ~ 292 mm
> Arc Midi GPU space w/ HDD cage = 290 mm
> Arc Midi GPU space without HDD cage = 470 mm
> Remove the HDD cage as I see you only have a F3 and nothing else (I don't know if you have more than one). Also allows unrestricted airflow.
> Other than that, I didn't realize that card was that long.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Thanks for providing the pictures Corrupt.
> @hstandford1 : remove the top HDD cage or bottom, whichever depending on where you place your card.


Thanks guys! Definitely wanting to pull the trigger on this case, what a beauty.


----------



## k.3nny

ok my "entry"

Did this Fractal case for a buddy of me









asus Rampage Extreme III
Intel Core i7 960
3x2GB Corsair Domminator GT 2000Mhz
4x XFX HD 5770 1GB GDDR5
OCZ Vertex 2 90GB
WD Caviar Green 1TB
Samsung 1TB 7200rpm
modded Fractal Design R3 Black Pearl

Watercooling parts!!!!

2x XSPC RX 240mm with 4x Zalman 1800rpm Led Fan's
XSPC RS 120mm with 1x Scythe 120MM Ultra Kaze 2000RPM
Magicool slim 360mm with 3x Scythe 120MM Ultra Kaze 2000RPM
2x MCP655 (D5) with a Bitspower D5 dual top
FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Red Reservoir V2
EK-Supreme HF Nickel CPU Block
4x EK HD5770 Full cover black acetal
Full cover mobo block EK-FB RE3 - Acetal+Nickel
20x Bitspower Matt Black 1/2 Fittingen

P¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡cs







!


----------



## solsamurai

Very nice!


----------



## macarule

yummm


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> ok my "entry"
> Did this Fractal case for a buddy of me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> asus Rampage Extreme III
> Intel Core i7 960
> 3x2GB Corsair Domminator GT 2000Mhz
> 4x XFX HD 5770 1GB GDDR5
> OCZ Vertex 2 90GB
> WD Caviar Green 1TB
> Samsung 1TB 7200rpm
> modded Fractal Design R3 Black Pearl
> Watercooling parts!!!!
> 2x XSPC RX 240mm with 4x Zalman 1800rpm Led Fan's
> XSPC RS 120mm with 1x Scythe 120MM Ultra Kaze 2000RPM
> Magicool slim 360mm with 3x Scythe 120MM Ultra Kaze 2000RPM
> 2x MCP655 (D5) with a Bitspower D5 dual top
> FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Red Reservoir V2
> EK-Supreme HF Nickel CPU Block
> 4x EK HD5770 Full cover black acetal
> Full cover mobo block EK-FB RE3 - Acetal+Nickel
> 20x Bitspower Matt Black 1/2 Fittingen
> P¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡cs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


That is a very nice build and a lot of stuff to fit inside an R3. What sort of temps do you get under load with 4 GPU's and a quad rad?


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skaboy607*
> 
> That is a very nice build and a lot of stuff to fit inside an R3. What sort of temps do you get under load with 4 GPU's and a quad rad?


did you mean Quad core or Quad rad? if you mean rad, he actually has 2 x 240mm, 1 x 360mm and 1 x 120mm rads


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> did you mean Quad core or Quad rad? if you mean rad, he actually has 2 x 240mm, 1 x 360mm and 1 x 120mm rads


^ treutalk,

240 sandwiched in the front
120mm in the back
360 on the top

temps i owe u a screenie of that


----------



## dartuil

hello the arc midi is awesome can someone tell me what type of fans is inside and their speed ?are they quiet?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello the arc midi is awesome can someone tell me what type of fans is inside and their speed ?are they quiet?


They're the fans they make. Specs are listed on the fan product pages.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> They're the fans they make. Specs are listed on the fan product pages.


Actually they don't seem to be the same fans. These are the specs for 140 mm fans that you can buy separately :
Quote:


> Specifications
> 
> Dimensions: 140 x 140 x 25mm
> RPM: 800 +/- 10% RPM


And this is listed in Arc Midi specs :
Quote:


> Cooling system
> 
> Fan controller for 3 fans included
> 1 front mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> 1 rear mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> 1 top mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> Additional 5 fan slots available for optional fans; one 140mmin front, one 120/140mm in bottom, two 120/140mm in top and one 140/180mm in side panel
> Top panel can mount either 3x 120mm fans, 3x 140mm fans or 1x 180mm + 1x 120/140mm fans


I didn't like mine, I replaced them with Thermalright X-Silent fans.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Actually they don't seem to be the same fans. These are the specs for 140 mm fans that you can buy separately :
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Specifications
> Dimensions: 140 x 140 x 25mm
> RPM: 800 +/- 10% RPM
> 
> 
> 
> And this is listed in Arc Midi specs :
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling system
> Fan controller for 3 fans included
> 1 front mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> 1 rear mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> 1 top mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> Additional 5 fan slots available for optional fans; one 140mmin front, one 120/140mm in bottom, two 120/140mm in top and one 140/180mm in side panel
> Top panel can mount either 3x 120mm fans, 3x 140mm fans or 1x 180mm + 1x 120/140mm fans
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Strange. I expected them to be the same.


----------



## Blizlake

^ Could be just a small mistake. Maybe arc series has 1000rpm fans and define series has 800rpm?


----------



## mm67

Doesn't Define come with 120 mm fans ? Anyway, 140 mm fans that come with are labeled as FD-FAN-140 OEM, probably they are just some cheaper versions of retail fans.


----------



## subtec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> ...
> Magicool slim 360mm with 3x Scythe 120MM Ultra Kaze 2000RPM


I only see two fans and two fan openings at the top? Were these pics taken before you installed the triple rad? Did you cut the top panel for the third fan?


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subtec*
> 
> I only see two fans and two fan openings at the top? Were these pics taken before you installed the triple rad? Did you cut the top panel for the third fan?


Mounted the 360 radiador against the top and did push fans on it, in total of 4x zalman redleds, and 4x scythe slim


----------



## subtec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Mounted the 360 radiador against the top and did push fans on it, in total of 4x zalman redleds, and 4x scythe slim


So 1/3rd of the radiator is blocked by the top of the case and it only has 2 fans on it? So it's effectively a 240 rad then.


----------



## gceclifton

FINALLY! Woo! That's a hefty threat to read front to back! Only took me two days but hey. I enjoyed it. Kinda.









I too have joined the club with a Define R3... This talk of an R4 coming out irritated me somewhat as I have only just bought the damned thing! Other than that, I'm rather happy with the case itself. Possibly going to try the chopping of the HDD bays mod and I need to look at my PSU. It seems to be where all the noise is coming from! One thing I can say is though, my 8 pin ATX connector was 1.5" too short for this case routed round the back of the Mobo; In the end I made my own extender out of the middle section of a blown PSU 24 pin connector and a couple of female Molex connectors - quick fix but not to worry, I intend to whip the PSU open and alter the lengths of the cables while I sleeve them. I am the kind of person that won't change any components until they break or I run out of storage space so I have no doubts about making the cables specific lengths to fit curves etc... Hmm... A picture...


From 12 January 2012

I have since added an old fan on the bottom and will likely move the exhaust fan over to the front as an intake and leave the rear open. Currently waiting on my Gigabyte GTX570 SOC to be replaced as it died after a days light use and will be getting myself a Thermalright HR-02 Macho HSF and a 120Gb SSD at some point. Overclocking as it is isn't something that I can really do. With the motherboard deciding everything (4.4Ghz with 5.1Ghz Turbo (IIRC)), the CPU got up to 98C whilst running a CPU benchmark with SiSoftware Sandra... I was just a tad worried when I saw that...


----------



## pez

I'm looking at cases lately, and I want to move to something smaller/different from my Storm Sniper. Before I was set on a R3, but after seeing really amazing setups with the Arc Midi, I think I'm leaning more towards that. I'm hoping you guys have some opinions or some warnings that I may not know about going from my case to this one. I really like that it has black interior (I have the Storm Sniper that has the silver/white interior), removable hard drive bays, and of course, the sleekness. I plan to keep my cathodes, but I'm kinda through with the ultra-flashy case thing. Also, I notice a lot of people that have the Arc Midi also have modular PSU's while I know it's not necessary, how much will it hinder my cable management abilities. I have to admit that the Storm Sniper spoils me with it's pre-bulging sides. It's also nice to know the gross weight will be a good 5lbs less with the Arc Midi.


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subtec*
> 
> So 1/3rd of the radiator is blocked by the top of the case and it only has 2 fans on it? So it's effectively a 240 rad then.


treu


----------



## dartuil

arc midi on the way!!

longtime i want a good case with cable management


----------



## goldbranch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> ok my "entry"
> Did this Fractal case for a buddy of me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> asus Rampage Extreme III
> Intel Core i7 960
> 3x2GB Corsair Domminator GT 2000Mhz
> 4x XFX HD 5770 1GB GDDR5
> OCZ Vertex 2 90GB
> WD Caviar Green 1TB
> Samsung 1TB 7200rpm
> modded Fractal Design R3 Black Pearl
> Watercooling parts!!!!
> 2x XSPC RX 240mm with 4x Zalman 1800rpm Led Fan's
> XSPC RS 120mm with 1x Scythe 120MM Ultra Kaze 2000RPM
> Magicool slim 360mm with 3x Scythe 120MM Ultra Kaze 2000RPM
> 2x MCP655 (D5) with a Bitspower D5 dual top
> FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Red Reservoir V2
> EK-Supreme HF Nickel CPU Block
> 4x EK HD5770 Full cover black acetal
> Full cover mobo block EK-FB RE3 - Acetal+Nickel
> 20x Bitspower Matt Black 1/2 Fittingen
> P¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡cs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Crazy build!









Here's mine:


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> FINALLY! Woo! ... A picture...
> 
> 
> From 12 January 2012
> 
> .


WOW FACTOR! I actually admire that rig of yours as beautiful .....


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all, I've finally let my credit card see some action and I'm waiting for these components:

* Arc Midi
* Asus p8z68-v gen3
* i5 2500K
* Thermalright Macho
* Corsair Vengeance Low Profile 4x4 GB
* Corsair Force 3 GT 120 GB
* Corsair HX 750w
* Asus 6850 Direct CU II
* Optical drive

I don't plan to overclock it to world record levels, anything above 4Ghz should be more than enough.
I do plan to move the top fan of the Arc Midi in front position (to have 2 front pushig air in and only 1 back sucking air out).

*Question:* should i have the PSU with the fan sucking air from the outside or from the inside of the case ?

MaX.


----------



## gceclifton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> WOW FACTOR! I actually admire that rig of yours as beautiful .....


Why thank you









I do plan on getting some Black and White perspex in there to cover the Mobo tray, cable routing holes and HDD caddy rear (Not yet decided on chopping the caddy) Although I am going to be sleeving the cables with black and colonial blue (to match the mobo colours) paracord, I have just realised that with the HR-02 Macho I'll be putting in there along with the GTX570 SOC that I hope to have returned soon, you probably won't be able to see much if any of the blue heat sinks. Oh Well!

The rear fan has now been moved to the front and the top rear grill opened up. With any luck, I'll be able to swap out the fan in the OCZ PSU and have it running a fair amount quieter. Going to try and see if a TY-140 Will fit in there! (Might need a bit of... altering and I need to look up CFM and pressure value of the original to get an idea of whether the fan is up to it)


----------



## jjr007

Hi all please add me to the club.


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi all, I've finally let my credit card see some action and I'm waiting for these components:
> * Arc Midi
> * Asus p8z68-v gen3
> * i5 2500K
> * Thermalright Macho
> * Corsair Vengeance Low Profile 4x4 GB
> * Corsair Force 3 GT 120 GB
> * Corsair HX 750w
> * Asus 6850 Direct CU II
> * Optical drive
> I don't plan to overclock it to world record levels, anything above 4Ghz should be more than enough.
> I do plan to move the top fan of the Arc Midi in front position (to have 2 front pushig air in and only 1 back sucking air out).
> Question: should i have the PSU with the fan sucking air from the outside or from the inside of the case ?
> MaX.


I prefer to suck air from the outside as it will be cooler.


----------



## dartuil

my midi is on the way ,are the top and frontal plastic solid?

did your HDD have vibrations its the important things i need to know reviews cant ask cause they dont have the case evereyday









thanks men!!


----------



## Derek1387

trying to decide on a mATX case to do a fully watercooled CPU/7970 loop.... not sure what to do. Looking at the Core 3000... but havent seen too many actually done that look good. Any pics out there?


----------



## dartuil

the arc mini is better than the core 3000 better cable management and a hole to put the 8 pin cpu they forget it on the 3000
I advice to get the arc mini instead of core 3000 in my opinion , the mini is made for micro atx


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> the arc mini is better than the core 3000 better cable management and a hole to put the 8 pin cpu they forget it on the 3000
> I advice to get the arc mini instead of core 3000 in my opinion , the mini is made for micro atx


Im doing a mATX system though....


----------



## dartuil

arc mini full of radiator :

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/pict0060t.jpg/

aah tell me what you think on the mini


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> arc mini full of radiator :
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/pict0060t.jpg/
> aah tell me what you think on the mini


I was thinking of putting a 240 rad in the front of my XL like that. Looks like there's just BARELY enough room to fit it too.


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> arc mini full of radiator :
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/pict0060t.jpg/
> aah tell me what you think on the mini


Where on earth are you stuffing hard drives/


----------



## k.3nny

Hard drives are overrated









2 SSD's 1 for windows and 1 for games behind moboplate








2tb external with usb.

Planning to do a 2x 360 rad in a arc midi


----------



## Blizlake

Sorry for loaning the pic but I was just wondering that could one fit a 240 rad on arc midi on the spot I colored pink. Even if it includes cutting the case and having to offset the front 240 rad.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/10648995.png/


----------



## dartuil

yes i think it can i watch on youtube a reviewer put one here on midi but without fan i dont know with fans let me find the vid im french.
i cant understand everything he is saying


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Hard drives are overrated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 SSD's 1 for windows and 1 for games behind moboplate


Wow, nice. How did you fix the SSDs on the mobo plate ? Got a pic ?

MaX.


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Hard drives are overrated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 SSD's 1 for windows and 1 for games behind moboplate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2tb external with usb.
> 
> Planning to do a 2x 360 rad in a arc midi


|

That makes sense.... dont think I could afford a large enough SSD for my games though.

Thanks!


----------



## dartuil

one 40 for OS and one 80 or 120 for games


----------



## gceclifton

Took delivery of some black and white Perspex this morning... Think I shall be moving my rig into it's old case again after the Jan Foldathon to do a bit of cut and shutting


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> one 40 for OS and one 80 or 120 for games


^this


----------



## SPAZZ!!!

I think I want to buy the Arc Midi, but was also considering the core 3000. Any major pros or cons between them? Also does anyone besides newegg sell them?

Thanks.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPAZZ!!!*
> 
> I think I want to buy the Arc Midi, but was also considering the core 3000. Any major pros or cons between them? Also does anyone besides newegg sell them?
> Thanks.
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


if you want core 3000 its $65 shipped on newegg right now. Its a steal of a case for the price, built wuality is very good. Lots of people dont like that there is no hole for the 4/8 pin power cable, which i personally solved by routing cable through the cpu heatsink backplate cutout and under the mobo.


----------



## dartuil

arc miidi is home soon and is someone try the antec big boy in this case i heard peole do it but no screen


----------



## SPAZZ!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> if you want core 3000 its $65 shipped on newegg right now. Its a steal of a case for the price, built wuality is very good. Lots of people dont like that there is no hole for the 4/8 pin power cable, which i personally solved by routing cable through the cpu heatsink backplate cutout and under the mobo.


I was leaning towards that one because of the price, but heard that the Midi is a lot better, but after seeing your pictures I might have just been sold!
I love the way the front of your case looks. Was it hard to mod it like that?


----------



## dartuil

do you guys think i can put something like that n top? :

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Big-200-Tricool-200Mm/dp/B000V6FKGM
http://ncix.com/products/?sku=66100&vpn=BFF-LPRO-20025B-RP&manufacture=BitFenix

and why not a 230mm :

http://www.bttech.com.au/bitfenix-spectre-series-230mm-case-blue-p-251038.html


----------



## jatontg

Has anyone tried mounting say a Thermalright TY-140 on the front of the case instead of the stock fans? it looks like it accepts square mounted fans, I'm just wondering if fans like this are still able to be mounted?


----------



## skaboy607

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jatontg*
> 
> Has anyone tried mounting say a Thermalright TY-140 on the front of the case instead of the stock fans? it looks like it accepts square mounted fans, I'm just wondering if fans like this are still able to be mounted?


I couldnt get mine to fit. You could just about mount one in with a lot of effort but no chance of the second and even with one in, the door struggles to close.


----------



## gceclifton

I plan on cutting things about to MAKE the damned things fit! I have 2 on their way to me already









I imagine either cutting the lip around the fan holes or putting spacers under the screw holes for the fans... The cages may be useless when I'm done or I may fashion my own filter/cage thingy

Also going to try and open up the gaps in the HDD cage rather than chop it all out... I want to retain the ability to house more HDD if needed!


----------



## jatontg

Thanks for the responses guys, I was looking whether there was some sort of mod available or what has been done. Kinda disappointed in this aspect of the case that the front does not cater for those type of fans properly - I have two cougar vortex fans coming. May look to mod it also! probably have to...


----------



## gceclifton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> I plan on cutting things about to MAKE the damned things fit! I have 2 on their way to me already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine either cutting the lip around the fan holes or putting spacers under the screw holes for the fans... The cages may be useless when I'm done or I may fashion my own filter/cage thingy
> Also going to try and open up the gaps in the HDD cage rather than chop it all out... I want to retain the ability to house more HDD if needed!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jatontg*
> 
> Thanks for the responses guys, I was looking whether there was some sort of mod available or what has been done. Kinda disappointed in this aspect of the case that the front does not cater for those type of fans properly - I have two cougar vortex fans coming. May look to mod it also! probably have to...


Forgot to mention... I have the Define R3...


----------



## UBERmorrison

You guys are jelly because I have the Core 1000!


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SPAZZ!!!*
> 
> I was leaning towards that one because of the price, but heard that the Midi is a lot better, but after seeing your pictures I might have just been sold!
> I love the way the front of your case looks. Was it hard to mod it like that?


It wasnt too difficult - take a look at core 3000 mod thread in my sig. the hardest part for me was to find good thick paper to cut holes in


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> It wasnt too difficult - take a look at core 3000 mod thread in my sig. the hardest part for me was to find good thick paper to cut holes in


You're hired.

Win.


----------



## gceclifton

To any of those out there with a Define R3 and an SSD on one of the HDD trays.... Does the back end of the SSD come flush against the level of the back of normal HDDs? I'm looking at modding but without an SSD, I can't plan ahead for when I DO get one! Also wondering where the sockets come to in relation to mechanical drives.... pics with a ruler would be awesome!


----------



## andrews2547

I can join this club soon


----------



## hstanford1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> It wasnt too difficult - take a look at core 3000 mod thread in my sig. the hardest part for me was to find good thick paper to cut holes in


How did you mount the paper? This is really stunning and I want to do the same, and also did you use any specific paper? I was thinking about using whatever material used for making retail packages, it's thick and flat. Have no idea what it's called however.


----------



## ekg84

Any thick flat paper would work i guess, i just used some textbook hard cover and u dont really need to mount it - it holds between mesh and front panel frame right where the dust filter is.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quick question for you guys, the FD Arc Midi will be my next case and eventually I'll get into water cooling. Can I fit a slim 140.2 rad up top and another slim or thick 140.2 rad in the front? I just plan on using 2 pull fans for each rad, I won't do a push/pull config. Would I be stuck with just a couple of 120.2 rads for top and front? I love the Arc Midi, it's a beautiful case! I sure I can do the 2 140.2 rads but I'll take what I can get!


----------



## mm67

To fit a 280 at top you probably have to cut 5.25" bays a little bit, all I have seen are too long. 280 is easy to mount at front, some are just a bit too tall to go there, Magicool 280 that I use goes there easily, but Phobya 280 that I also have and originally wanted to use is too tall. Magicool is 323 mm tall and it has maybe 5 mm of extra space so I'd say that 280 radiators shorter than 330 mm should go there.


----------



## dartuil

question to arc midi and mini owner:
what do you put as dust filter on the left side panel?


----------



## goldbranch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> question to arc midi and mini owner:
> what do you put as dust filter on the left side panel?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999217&Tpk=ff121


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Quick question for you guys, the FD Arc Midi will be my next case and eventually I'll get into water cooling. Can I fit a slim 140.2 rad up top and another slim or thick 140.2 rad in the front? I just plan on using 2 pull fans for each rad, I won't do a push/pull config. Would I be stuck with just a couple of 120.2 rads for top and front? I love the Arc Midi, it's a beautiful case! I sure I can do the 2 140.2 rads but I'll take what I can get!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> To fit a 280 at top you probably have to cut 5.25" bays a little bit, all I have seen are too long. 280 is easy to mount at front, some are just a bit too tall to go there, Magicool 280 that I use goes there easily, but Phobya 280 that I also have and originally wanted to use is too tall. Magicool is 323 mm tall and it has maybe 5 mm of extra space so I'd say that 280 radiators shorter than 330 mm should go there.


If you have to mod to put a 140.2 up top and at the front, you could do a minor mod and fit a 120.3 up top but to fit a 140.2 at the front you have to move the HDD cage back a little bit but all that involves is a drill and some rivets! this it what im going to do when i go to water


----------



## mm67

240 at top and 280 in front is easily enough for me. Unless cpu and gpu are under load at same time fans on 240 stay at minimum speed all the time and Thermalright X-Silent fans in front are silent at any speed.


----------



## Aryus

recently upgraded from cm 690 ii adv to arc midi, this case is very roomy and much more easy to build in it
I do not even need cable ties to make it look neat


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Bill Owen

ThinkComputers.org dropped by my booth at CES to check out BF3 PC done with Fractal-Design Arc Midi


----------



## bobwas4

Hello i did give in and buy the r3. its a great case not to big not to small.



and





Let me know what you think? weather its a pile of **** or not. lol


----------



## gceclifton

Nice and tidy







I have that case too and am loving it







Just started modding it too... Top half of the HDD bays are coming out, SSD mounted on the black plate to be in line with normal HDD sata ports and a fair amount of black and white acrylic to hide all the nasty cables! (Need to pluck up the guts to get it done though!)

Edit: Always wondered... How the hell does your first GFX card get enough air to it to stay cool??


----------



## bobwas4

I'm to scared to get adventurous like that I mean I have cut a window in the side panel but that's it. I don't really wanna do to much cos it's my work horse and gaming center. Because I'm a Tattoo apprentice I use alot of photoshop etc on it.

Erm in all honesty pass but I check the ATi overdrive and the gpus are the same temperature. So I dunno they should get plenty of air as I have 2 deltas in the front of the case so it should be ok


----------



## Jam0r

Newbie here









Had my XL for a while and was using a H50 on the rear fan but decided I wanted to upgrade things slightly and this is where i've gotten to. Sorry about the quality of the photos, camera is dead and had to use my phone.


























As you can see from the photos i'm running a 360 radiator in the top and to get this to fit i've removed the optical drive bay cage as I have a portable DVD drive anyway. Front fan grill has been removed along with the horrible dust filter and future plans include a new side panel and some form of lighting which i'm yet to decide on. I'm hoping to find a way to 'blank' off the lower compartment from view to hide the HDD and the PSU too.

Spec is as follows:-

i5 2500k
Asus P8Z68-V
8GB GeIL DDR3
MSI 6950 with unlocked shaders at 900/1350

Plus here's a picture of my HTPC which is running a i3 2100k, 4GB DDR3, MSI H61 motherboard and Ubunutu off a USB stick for the time being. Managed to do a pretty good job on the cable tidying with this small case and non modular PSU but need to take a picture.


----------



## bobwas4

Yeh your case is sweet, I would like to of put a h100 rad in the roof but the ram and mb get in the way so I had to settle with h80 with some
Mega fans







I think ssd is next on the list for os


----------



## Jam0r

Aren't those Delta fans?!

Do you have ear muffs?


----------



## bobwas4

i have really loud headphones. nah i control them with a Lamptron FC-2 which handels them pretty well. but you can full force 5000rpm on tap. which is good for overclocking.


----------



## JDUB_68

I have a quick question for anybody with the Fractal Arc, I was planning on getting one, putting my 2 HDD's in the 5.25 bays up out of the way, removing both of the cages (one screwed in, one riveted?) and possibly building a little frame to hold up a spare NZXT 200m fan I have right in front of where the GPU will be. My question is about the width of the case, the fan is 192mm, will it fit and still be able to close the side panel? I've attached a photo in case that didn't make any sense!

Thanks!


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> I have a quick question for anybody with the Fractal Arc, I was planning on getting one, putting my 2 HDD's in the 5.25 bays up out of the way, removing both of the cages (one screwed in, one riveted?) and possibly building a little frame to hold up a spare NZXT 200m fan I have right in front of where the GPU will be. My question is about the width of the case, the fan is 192mm, will it fit and still be able to close the side panel? I've attached a photo in case that didn't make any sense!
> Thanks!


At that place you have about 225 mm of space, if you move a little bit towards back to where the motherboard tray starts then you have 200 mm.


----------



## JDUB_68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> At that place you have about 225 mm of space, if you move a little bit towards back to where the motherboard tray starts then you have 200 mm.


Sounds great, thanks so much for the quick detailed answer, I'll try and post a pic in a few weeks when its all set up.


----------



## dartuil

arc midi is at home









screen xhen i get a good camera

im asking if a 230mm like the bitfenix can fit on top with 2 screw but no answer ill try my myself to see


----------



## dartuil

why my arc midi come with a white thing on gomet?
look like chalk


----------



## Kaneda13

finally got a chance to do one of the projects i've had waiting. i got a used GTX470 back plate from EK used off the forums, and wanted to install it on my air cooled card. after some research and trial and error, i found the screws shipped with the plate are M3 screws, however the air cooler uses M2 screws. i was able to get some M2 x 8mm screws with counter sunk heads (had to buy 50, so if anyone else wants to try this, let me know and i'll cut you a great deal on some screws). this also meant i need new washer to fit the M2 screws, finally found ones that are 0.032" thick (only had to buy 25 of these, again, see earlier if your trying this). i'm really happy with the way this turned out.

before:









after:









installed:









i know the pics are a bit blurry (wife left the memory card reader at her school, so i'll get better ones later)


----------



## dartuil

nice rig man!


----------



## k.3nny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> finally got a chance to do one of the projects i've had waiting. i got a used GTX470 back plate from EK used off the forums, and wanted to install it on my air cooled card. after some research and trial and error, i found the screws shipped with the plate are M3 screws, however the air cooler uses M2 screws. i was able to get some M2 x 8mm screws with counter sunk heads (had to buy 50, so if anyone else wants to try this, let me know and i'll cut you a great deal on some screws). this also meant i need new washer to fit the M2 screws, finally found ones that are 0.032" thick (only had to buy 25 of these, again, see earlier if your trying this). i'm really happy with the way this turned out.
> 
> before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> installed:
> [URL=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v250/kaneda13/2012-01-21164032.jpg%5B/IM]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v250/kaneda13/2012-01-21164032.jpg[/IM[/URL]] i know the pics are a bit blurry (wife left the memory card reader at her school, so i'll get better ones later)[/QUOTE]
> 
> Your card is getting NO air in now :|


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Your card is getting NO air in now :|


All he did was install a back plate. Everything else is still there.









*Kaneda13*, looks nice!


----------



## bobwas4

That looks really smart man. Good stuff.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k.3nny*
> 
> Your card is getting NO air in now :|


the main fan intake is still on the bottom, and there's about a 5mm gap between the back and the plate, it's running the same temps as before, maybe even a degree or 2 cooler.
actually, here are my idle temps:


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all, my new rig (check my sig) is up and running !

I really like the Arc Midi. I don't event find it that loud, but that's probably because I come from a Dell









Only cons I've found so far, in order of importance:

Non-PWM fans ?!








The wiring of the fan controller really sucks bug time ! I'm tempted to buy 3 PWM fan or at least an NZXT sentry mesh ...
Lower cage not removable (well you can, but it's not meant to)
Count me in the club, I'll post some pics soon: nothing spectacular, just a plain Arc Midi on air cooling, unless I fall for some sleeved cabling
















MaX.


----------



## Blizlake

^ You really can't consider it a con that it has no pwm fans... Almost no case does. PWM is meant for coolers and fan controllers for case fans







The lower cage comes out easily btw, just tap the few rivets off.


----------



## fox3r

Just put a custom piece of acrylic on as my side panel. Looks super sick and is really easy to make. Hard to get no glare with the picture (would love to have found no-glare acrylic, but it was either too thick or too expensive).


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Only cons I've found so far, in order of importance:
> 
> Non-PWM fans ?!


Yeah that kinda does suck about every computer case ever sold.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fox3r*
> 
> Just put a custom piece of acrylic on as my side panel. Looks super sick and is really easy to make. Hard to get no glare with the picture (would love to have found no-glare acrylic, but it was either too thick or too expensive).


How did you attach the acrylic to the side? Ive seen people do it with thum screws.

Paul


----------



## fox3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> How did you attach the acrylic to the side? Ive seen people do it with thum screws.
> Paul


I went to TAP Plastic and bought a sheet of acrylic that was 1/16" thick by 22" by 17 1/4" (there is a little hang over on the bottom and back and sticks out a little pit with the magnets on there). Then I went to our local hardware store and bought a magnet roll with adhesive on one side (it was 10' of 1/2" wide) and then placed it all around the sides to create a decent seal. It holds it perfectly, but I doubt if it would hold a thicker piece of acrylic.

The magnet tape was something like this (mine was about a 1/16" thick):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.h...-MT10510P/dp/B0030GF2M2/ref=zg_bs_490664011_1


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> Yeah that kinda does suck about every computer case ever sold.


Well, the fans included might not be good so you're probably going to swap them. It would be pretty awesome to see some high CFM/dBA Sanyo Denki's coming with these cases although that would push the price up really high.


----------



## andrews2547

I can join this now







I got my Core 3000 today.

I can't take pictures







I don't have a camera (not even phone with a camera) But I have a screenshot of my order


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Well, the fans included might not be good so you're probably going to swap them. It would be pretty awesome to see some high CFM/dBA Sanyo Denki's coming with these cases although that would push the price up really high.


True. Personally I would rather cases just came without fans. I'll never use the stock ones unless Scythe ever makes a case I want.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> True. Personally I would rather cases just came without fans. I'll never use the stock ones unless Scythe ever makes a case I want.


If that happens, I hope the prices of the cases cut at least by how many fans and how expensive they sell them at normally.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> ^ You really can't consider it a con that it has no pwm fans... Almost no case does. PWM is meant for coolers and fan controllers for case fans


Well, many modern motherboards can handle pwm fans today. If you have plenty of fans, you just need a pwm splitter and you have the best possible setup (low rpms, unless when needed, all automated).
Cost-wise I do see the issue, but buying a case with 3 fans just to throw them away kinda sucks.

BTW, I've ordered a sentry mesh: the stock fans are good enough for me.
Out of curiosity, what would be a good 140mm PWM fan (not loud) for the Arc Midi ?

MaX.


----------



## axipher

New member









Fractal Design Core 1000

M4A78LT M-LE
Athlon X3 440 @ 4 cores @ 3.3 GHz
2x 2 GB G.Skill Ripjaws
Nvidia 9800 GTX+
Samsung 500 GB
Coolit Eco with 2x Scythe Slipstream
Scythe Kaze-Q Fan Controller
OCZ SZ 550 W

And picture time










































Not bad for a non-modular PSU


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*


Nice set up..!


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Well, many modern motherboards can handle pwm fans today. If you have plenty of fans, you just need a pwm splitter and you have the best possible setup (low rpms, unless when needed, all automated).
> Cost-wise I do see the issue, but buying a case with 3 fans just to throw them away kinda sucks.
> BTW, I've ordered a sentry mesh: the stock fans are good enough for me.
> Out of curiosity, what would be a good 140mm PWM fan (not loud) for the Arc Midi ?
> MaX.


Problem is that PWM does not differentiate between those fans. If you split 3 fans off one PWM signal it's gonna think they are all the same fan, performing the same cooling function, when they aren't; I mean, unless you're running a heatsink with three identical fans strapped to it. Just because the 120mm fan on the heatsink needs to be at 70% doesn't mean the 140mm intake fan needs to be. etc and so forth. Generally there is a secondary "System" PWM connection, but then you risk a cycle of case fans slow down..temps go up...case fans speed up...temps go down..speed goes down...up and down and up and down.

Then there's the problem with using PWM for a cooler, even, since it invariably cannot react as fast as your temps go up, resulting in your CPU temp jacking up for a couple seconds until the fan catches up to cool it. That happens to a lesser extent when you have a proactive fan profile but it still happens. I'm ranting. tldr: I prefer consistent airflow whenever possible.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Nice set up..!


Thanks


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> True. Personally I would rather cases just came without fans. I'll never use the stock ones unless Scythe ever makes a case I want.
> 
> 
> 
> If that happens, I hope the prices of the cases cut at least by how many fans and how expensive they sell them at normally.
Click to expand...

Bitfenix's Core-edition cases come without fans but the price difference between regular and core-case should be a bit bigger imho.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Out of curiosity, what would be a good 140mm PWM fan (not loud) for the Arc Midi ?


Akasa Vipers and Apaches


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> *snip*
> Not bad for a non-modular PSU


You got that right







Mine is a complete mess lol





I got a bit of TIM on the PSU in case you are wondering what that is. I need to clean that


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> *snip*
> Not bad for a non-modular PSU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got that right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is a complete mess lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a bit of TIM on the PSU in case you are wondering what that is. I need to clean that
Click to expand...

Could use a little work, 3-pin fan extensions maybe. If I can fit a full PSU worth of cables in an mATX case, I think you can manage









And just use an alcohol wipe to clean off TIM, I've been using 70% isopropyl alcohol *Webcol Alcohol Wipes* for years to clean TIM or prep parts before I sand and paint them.

I believe in you


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Akasa Vipers and Apaches


This. They're the best CFM/dba fans you can easily (frozenCPU and I believe Sidewinder) find for a good price. Has a rate a bit above 4.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> True. Personally I would rather cases just came without fans. I'll never use the stock .


Couldn't agree more.

I think whoever is manufacturing Fractal's Cases for them , is doing a fantastic job ...but
the supplied fans are rubbish. Fractal would better off serving the customer by either outfitting their
cases with name brand fans.....or just offer a fan delete option.

Understanding the logistics of the business, having two seperate skews is costly , so I can see why they just throw in a disposable fan, as a stock item.

Antec and others have obviouly seen the shakup Fractal is causing. I doubt there's been a case mfg. that's caught fire this quick....in a long time.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Could use a little work, 3-pin fan extensions maybe. If I can fit a full PSU worth of cables in an mATX case, I think you can manage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And just use an alcohol wipe to clean off TIM, I've been using 70% isopropyl alcohol *Webcol Alcohol Wipes* for years to clean TIM or prep parts before I sand and paint them.
> I believe in you


I got some stuff to get TIM off







and I don't really want to go though the hassle of sorting all the cables now







I am going to get a proper fan controller sometime next week and once I got it I am going to do the cable management properly


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I am going to get a proper fan controller sometime next week and once I got it I am going to do the cable management properly


Would totally support the use of controllers. Guess it all goes back to the days of
the issues drawing power off the mobo's headers. Secondly , cable management and
absolute control of each individual fan becomes the defining feature. Allowing the
mobo itself to maintain/control its function is just beyond my comfort zone.










As with the Fractal line of cases and also the P180 Antecs require a flush mounted
slider type controller. I found the NZXT had a controller that exceeded every demand
I could ever desire. The overall function is flawless and the cabling is far beyond
anything you'd expect at that price point. The NZXT controller appears to have
been custom made for Fractal (even tho it wasn't their intention)


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Would totally support the use of controllers. Guess it all goes back to the days of
> the issues drawing power off the mobo's headers. Secondly , cable management and
> absolute control of each individual fan becomes the defining feature. Allowing the
> mobo itself to maintain/control its function is just beyond my comfort zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As with the Fractal line of cases and also the P180 Antecs require a flush mounted
> slider type controller. I found the NZXT had a controller that exceeded every demand
> I could ever desire. The overall function is flawless and the cabling is far beyond
> anything you'd expect at that price point. The NZXT controller appears to have
> been custom made for Fractal (even tho it wasn't their intention)


Well, there's also a problem with the Midi. Most controllers with a brushed finished have their finish horizontal which doesn't match the vertical lines. A bit disappointing since it kills off a lot of options.


----------



## B!0HaZard

New member here.



Looks decent despite the 8-pin EPS cable running across the GPU.


----------



## bobwas4

Yeh I agree I use a lamptron fc-2 fan controller cos it's fairly powerful. And I hide mine behind the r3's front panel. Which is needed. Some decent rigs here.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Would totally support the use of controllers. Guess it all goes back to the days of
> the issues drawing power off the mobo's headers. Secondly , cable management and
> absolute control of each individual fan becomes the defining feature. Allowing the
> mobo itself to maintain/control its function is just beyond my comfort zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As with the Fractal line of cases and also the P180 Antecs require a flush mounted
> slider type controller. I found the NZXT had a controller that exceeded every demand
> I could ever desire. The overall function is flawless and the cabling is far beyond
> anything you'd expect at that price point. The NZXT controller appears to have
> been custom made for Fractal (even tho it wasn't their intention)
> 
> 
> 
> Well, there's also a problem with the Midi. Most controllers with a brushed finished have their finish horizontal which doesn't match the vertical lines. A bit disappointing since it kills off a lot of options.
Click to expand...

Get one with an LCD display instead that takes up the whole area.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Here's mine







Pardon the crappy PSU cover. Gna make one out of transclucent acrylic. It's a Arc Midi with a window mod


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobwas4*
> 
> Yeh I agree I use a lamptron fc-2 fan controller cos it's fairly powerful. And I hide mine behind the r3's front panel. Which is needed. Some decent rigs here.










I am getting a lamptron fc-2







I don't need one, The 3 fan controller is more than good enough for what I need (CPU @3.9GHz 1.45v 45C with Prime95 running for 5 hours 45 mins GPU Asus nVidia 550Ti @stock 67C with GTA IV running with everything on high) I just want one because I am planning on replacing the stock case fans with 4 140mm (one for push/pull on the CPU cooler), 2 120mm fans


----------



## axipher

I need to mod one of the front mesh panels on my Design core 1000 to accommodate a Scythe Kaze-Q 3.5" fan controller, any ideas on the best way to go about it? Or is there an existing 3.5" Mesh cover?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I need to mod one of the front mesh panels on my Design core 1000 to accommodate a Scythe Kaze-Q 3.5" fan controller, any ideas on the best way to go about it? Or is there an existing 3.5" Mesh cover?


i've just done that with my core 3000 but i used one of those Sunbeam Rheobus fan controllers:


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I need to mod one of the front mesh panels on my Design core 1000 to accommodate a Scythe Kaze-Q 3.5" fan controller, any ideas on the best way to go about it? Or is there an existing 3.5" Mesh cover?
> 
> 
> 
> i've just done that with my core 3000 but i used one of those Sunbeam Rheobus fan controllers:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Wow, can't believe I didn't think of that, thanks a bunch


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I need to mod one of the front mesh panels on my Design core 1000 to accommodate a Scythe Kaze-Q 3.5" fan controller, any ideas on the best way to go about it? Or is there an existing 3.5" Mesh cover?


There is an existing one, I got one with my case



I love what ekg84 done, It looks so nice and like it actually belongs on the case rather than an extra. I'm going to do that when I get my controller


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I need to mod one of the front mesh panels on my Design core 1000 to accommodate a Scythe Kaze-Q 3.5" fan controller, any ideas on the best way to go about it? Or is there an existing 3.5" Mesh cover?
> 
> 
> 
> There is an existing one, I got one with my case
> 
> 
> 
> I love what ekg84 done, It looks so nice and like it actually belongs on the case rather than an extra. I'm going to do that when I get my controller
Click to expand...

What case do you have, the 1000? If so I might have to do some digging through my parts boxes, maybe I misplaced mine.


----------



## andrews2547

I got the 3000


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I got the 3000


I just looked in to some inboxing of 1000's and supposedly they do come with one... Now I just need to find where I put it in one of the following:

- 2x automotive toolboxes
- 2x hobby toolboxes
- 4x of the drawers in my dresser
- 3x computer case boxes stuffed with other boxes
- somewhere under my bed


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I got the 3000
> 
> 
> 
> I just looked in to some inboxing of 1000's and supposedly they do come with one... Now I just need to find where I put it in one of the following:
> 
> - 2x automotive toolboxes
> - 2x hobby toolboxes
> - 4x of the drawers in my dresser
> - 3x computer case boxes stuffed with other boxes
> - *somewhere under my bed*
Click to expand...

If so, you're screwed


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I got the 3000
> 
> 
> 
> I just looked in to some inboxing of 1000's and supposedly they do come with one... Now I just need to find where I put it in one of the following:
> 
> - 2x automotive toolboxes
> - 2x hobby toolboxes
> - 4x of the drawers in my dresser
> - 3x computer case boxes stuffed with other boxes
> - *somewhere under my bed*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If so, you're screwed
Click to expand...

Pretty much, its like socks in the dryer, once they leave your site, chance of recovery drops to less than 1%.


----------



## bobwas4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> There is an existing one, I got one with my case
> 
> I love what ekg84 done, It looks so nice and like it actually belongs on the case rather than an extra. I'm going to do that when I get my controller


haha this is wkd. feeling that mod man top stuff







im to scared to do stuff like that all i have done is window my r3. lol.


----------



## candy_van

Just got my Define Mini today! Hopefully will have time to do my case swap etc over the weekend









Does anyone here run theirs w/o using a top exhaust? I might just leave the sound dampening block in up there.
I'm going to use 4x AP-14s (2x exhaust in P/P on a H60) and 2x up front.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Just got my Define Mini today! Hopefully will have time to do my case swap etc over the weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone here run theirs w/o using a top exhaust? I might just leave the sound dampening block in up there.
> I'm going to use 4x AP-14s (2x exhaust in P/P on a H60) and 2x up front.


A friend of mine has a very similar setup except his fans are 1200rpm Yates and his cooler is Kühler 620. Temps are great even with 2 evga reference 570's. The P/P rear fans give good exhaust.
edit: sorry not reference, they're "hd" cards that have the single fan on the middle(ish).


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Get one with an LCD display instead that takes up the whole area.


FC6? Still kind of bothers me.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Get one with an LCD display instead that takes up the whole area.
> 
> 
> 
> FC6? Still kind of bothers me.
Click to expand...

Not sure, I've never looked in to them, I like the look of mesh on my 690 II and my Design Core 1000. If I can't find my pre-made 3.5" hole cover that came with my case, I'll be doing the mid that was previously posted.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> A friend of mine has a very similar setup except his fans are 1200rpm Yates and his cooler is Kühler 620. Temps are great even with 2 evga reference 570's. The P/P rear fans give good exhaust.
> edit: sorry not reference, they're "hd" cards that have the single fan on the middle(ish).


Awesome that's good to hear








I'll prob still get a blower-style card tho, figure whatever warm air is coming off a non-ref will be going through the radiator otherwise.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Not sure, I've never looked in to them, I like the look of mesh on my 690 II and my Design Core 1000. If I can't find my pre-made 3.5" hole cover that came with my case, I'll be doing the mid that was previously posted.


Was looking at the previous page and liked ekg84's little project. I guess I'll do that. Just don't really know how I'll do it with an Arc Midi.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Well, there's also a problem with the Midi. Most controllers with a brushed finished have their finish horizontal which doesn't match the vertical lines. A bit disappointing since it kills off a lot of options.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Get one with an LCD display instead that takes up the whole area.


That's whats nice about that big azz Fractal Door. Once closed , you don't
see anything and the fans are still controlled at will.

Simplistic , but most importantly.......... functional


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobwas4*
> 
> haha this is wkd. feeling that mod man top stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im to scared to do stuff like that all i have done is window my r3. lol.












I didn't mod that







it came with the case







or did you quote the wrong person?


----------



## RaiGaL

Hello guys I was thinking of getting Fractal Design XL and I have one question. Is the rear top 180mm fan removable? If yes is there any sound dampening material in the original packaging so I can cover it? Is there a designated hole like the rest holes of the case, so I can cover it? Thank you!









Edit: I have a Corsair HX850 PSU and I was wondering, what's the required cable length for this case?


----------



## B!0HaZard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaiGaL*
> 
> Hello guys I was thinking of getting Fractal Design XL and I have one question. Is the rear top 180mm fan removable? If yes is there any sound dampening material in the original packaging so I can cover it? Is there a designated hole like the rest holes of the case, so I can cover it? Thank you!


That's 3 questions, derp...

Yes.
No.
Yes.

Why would you do that though?


----------



## B!0HaZard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RaiGaL*
> 
> Edit: I have a Corsair HX850 PSU and I was wondering, what's the required cable length for this case?


Depending on the position of your EPS 8-pin connector, you may need an extension. My VX550 8-pin CPU cable can't reach if I route it behind the motherboard. It's 5 cm shorter than the one on the HX850 and I think it's missing ~7 cm. Haven't tried the 24-pin as I already use an extension for that one, but it depends on the position of the 24-pin connector on the motherboard.


----------



## RaiGaL

Thanks for your reply B!0HaZard. My motherboard is Asrock P67 Extreme4 Gen3 and looking at the layout of the 8-Pin it seems like I should buy an extension cable.

As for the fan, looking back at some reviews I found out that the hole is in the rear and not the top part of the case, unlike r3. No problem there then!


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Hey everyone! I'd like to join the Fractal Club!!


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> Hey everyone! I'd like to join the Fractal Club!!


Nice.







How much room do you have between the top of the Silver Arrow and the side panel? I'm currently looking for a case that will hold the SA and two TY-150's (much larger width than the TY-140's). Thanks!


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much room do you have between the top of the Silver Arrow and the side panel? I'm currently looking for a case that will hold the SA and two TY-150's (much larger width than the TY-140's). Thanks!


It is very difficult for me to get a quantitative measurement for you, but there is no way that a 26.5mm fan will fit there. The fan that sits on the ram heat spreaders comes too close to the edge of the side panel. I'm trying to get you an exact measurement, but the vent does not line up with the top of the fan.

If you are really serious about putting a fan there, what if you mount the fan to the outside of the case? It may not be the most aesthetically pleasing, but it will certainly increase airflow. This case is pretty darn wide too! I'm not sure that you will have many options for a case that will fit a TY-150 and the SA.. Perhaps you could mount a 12.5cm fan? But those things move so little air it's just not worth it.

But the Arc Midi has lots of options for additional fans and is very airy and roomy. The side panel fan may not be necessary. I took 4C off my load temps by turning my top exhaust fan around and blocking off the second fan hole.


----------



## solsamurai

Right on. Thanks for the info!


----------



## toyz72

i'm waiting on the ups man to bring me my 120x12mm fan today so i can set my arc mini up with push/pull on my h100. i picked this fan up for the rear exhaust. i found out the hard way that i wasn't fitting a 25mm back there. i'll post a pich of the push/pull setup when i get it installed.


----------



## macarule

i cant remember if i've posted mine here or not, but here it is anyway


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Those thin fans are really good for tight spaces, but the amount of air they move is deplorable. I suggested that solsamurai mount the fan on the outside of the panel, but I admit that I probably wouldn't want that on my case. It would be worth it I think to mount a 25mm fan on the outside of the back of the case because it is not visible. Or at the very least cut the fan grill to allow a little more air through.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much room do you have between the top of the Silver Arrow and the side panel? I'm currently looking for a case that will hold the SA and two TY-150's (much larger width than the TY-140's). Thanks!


I'm not 100% here, but I would say that the rear 140mm and top 180mm fan mounts should mean that you could fit the bigger TY-150 fans there. Also, Arc midi is 230mm wide from which the back of mobo tray takes around 25mm and even if we give another inch to the mobo standoffs and mobo itself, there should still be 180mm space for cooler. Theoretically speaking, that is.


----------



## JDUB_68

Hey everybody,

I'm thinking of getting a Fractal Arc and removing the HDD cages, and storing my hard drives in the two 5.25 bays. I was looking around for options and saw this,

http://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1327949211&sr=8-10

Was wondering if anybody had any experience with this in any case, let alone a Fractal?


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> Those thin fans are really good for tight spaces, but the amount of air they move is deplorable. I suggested that solsamurai mount the fan on the outside of the panel, but I admit that I probably wouldn't want that on my case. It would be worth it I think to mount a 25mm fan on the outside of the back of the case because it is not visible. Or at the very least cut the fan grill to allow a little more air through.


its the 2000rpm one and its doing great. i just wanted to make sure i didn't have any dead air spots hanging out around the rad. picks coming up next.


----------



## RaiGaL

Honorable XL owners I need your help on this! Can the last two lower fan slots on the front side panel provide proper space for the installation of a Noctua PF-P12? Is the space too big for a 120mm fan?

If yes I should go for a 140mm fan, probably a Noctua PF-14, Xigmatek XAF, Akasa Apache or Thermalright TY-140. Which one would you recommend for a super silent operation?


----------



## B!0HaZard

http://cdn.overclock.net/8/86/865dc1b4_img9342a.jpeg

It only supports 140 mm fans, both clips and screw holes are for 140 mm.


----------



## gceclifton

TY-140s are out then... they have the same hole centres as 120mm fans...


----------



## Blizlake

Akasa FTW. Just saying


----------



## candy_van

Anyone here with a Define Mini have a hell of a time getting their back panel on with all the cables routed behind the tray?

I just did my case swap last night and am going to need to do some extensive clamping and zip-tieing to hopefully get this thing buttoned up.
Almost seems like there's not enough room for the 24-pin alone back there...


----------



## toyz72

heres a reference picture of my arc mini. this is the h100 push/pull with a 120x12mm rear fan.


----------



## HornetMaX

Few pics of my midi. My first build, I'm kind of a noob









Cable management looks messy, but with the side panel on it's fine ...








Hope to find some spare time and get it done a bit better.

BTW, I find the HX750 cables very stiff, bit of a pain to route properly.
And the Sentry mesh seems to be made for the Arc cases, it just blends in perfectly.

MaX.


----------



## elzhi

Fractal R3











i still have to tidy up some cables and move SSD's, etc. so its pretty much work in progress...


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Akasa FTW. Just saying


Agreed.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Anyone here with a Define Mini have a hell of a time getting their back panel on with all the cables routed behind the tray?
> I just did my case swap last night and am going to need to do some extensive clamping and zip-tieing to hopefully get this thing buttoned up.
> Almost seems like there's not enough room for the 24-pin alone back there...


I have heard many reports of this issue, but folks seem to somehow manage. Not sure how though, because my Arc Mini has more room and it kicked my butt when routing.

Both cases have the exact same width:

http://www.sizeasy.com/page/size_comparison/33961-550D-vs-Arc-Midi-vs-Arc-Mini-vs-Define-Mini-vs-Wine-Bottle

...even though the Define has a layer of sound insulating material on the inside of both case side panels. They need to make the Define at least 10mm wider to compensate for that insulation. Oh well, she is still a quiet beauty...so you have that going for you!









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Delete.


----------



## paulkemp

Hello guys. Do you know if there are any cheap US or Asian sites where i can get good quality silent fans? For the Define R3 case. I'm getting the case over the weekend. I currently have two two silent fans in my case that i can move over, that totals on 4 fans. It's probably enough, but it would be nice to fill it all up. Old CPU and GPU. Thx! Have a nice weekend


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

My Arc Mini arrived today...and I just finished wiring up the rig in my sig.









Impressions:


Beautiful in person. Looks more like the pics on Fractal's site than the pics in reviews (often taken with bad lighting I suppose). Even my wife likes it.

Very nice build quality...and plenty of extra screws.

Tight behind motherboard, but I managed to get the cables to fit. I originally wanted the Define Mini, but space behind the MB was one of the two reasons that I didn't get it...and I am glad now. I can't imagine things being any tighter. I feel your pain candy_van.

Plenty of headspace for my CPU cooler, which is the other reason that I didn't get the Define Mini.

MB cutout is offset for my Gene-Z. No worries, I installed it before I mounted the MB, but I would hate to have to replace the cooler.

The fan controller was a pain to wire without having wires hanging over the MB...and I had to use an extra (massive) molex cable from my modular PSU....which makes life even worse behind the MB tray, but it's nice that they throw a controller in.

It's louder than I had hoped due to the mesh on top. THAT is why I wanted the Define Mini. I'll need to play with the fans some I suppose.

Temps are ridiculously low with a small overclock...so I probably can back down on the fans, but I need to run some tests first.
I'll grab some pics sometime this weekend so I can officially be in the club. Thanks for the help!









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## joeyck

How you guys clean out the dust filters on the Arc Midi? This might sound like a stupid question I know -_-, do you have to remove the fans then do so? I don't quite understand how it should be done. I would like to the Arc Midi or the 500R.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyck*
> 
> How you guys clean out the dust filters on the Arc Midi? This might sound like a stupid question I know -_-, do you have to remove the fans then do so? I don't quite understand how it should be done. I would like to the Arc Midi or the 500R.


Many ways... Just simply vacuum it or use air compressor/gas duster for example.


----------



## joeyck

that simple? lol nice!

i also took a liking to another fractal case :

Core 3000

Same intake / filter method but wanted to know if the h100 will fit inside it like it does on the Arc Midi? Also is there anyway to remove both HD cages? If so then I would get the core 3000 any day before the Arc Midi


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Snapped a picture of the new build...but the lens was laser focused on one point, so I'll try to grab another one later:



Cable routing is not really my thing, so I won't even pretend that I plan to tidy up any more than this. I was lucky to get as much crammed behind the MB as I did.









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeyck*
> 
> that simple? lol nice!
> 
> wanted to know if the h100 will fit inside it like it does on the Arc Midi? Also is there anyway to remove both HD cages? If so then I would get the core 3000 any day before the Arc Midi


Yup, it's that simple.

Likely won't fit, too little clearance between mobo and top of the case (H80 fits though). Only the upper HDD cage is removable without popping rivets (like arc series) to my understanding.


----------



## joeyck

thanks a lot looks the arc midi will be my choice! +rep


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Greg.Steele*
> 
> My latest build


Very nice.

What did you use to hide the fan case and leave only the blades showing?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Very nice.
> 
> What did you use to hide the fan case and leave only the blades showing?


Cut some black paper or something similar to shape, that's how lots of peeps here have done it.


----------



## ekg84

my lightly modded core 3000:


----------



## joeyck

Only reason I wouldnt get the core 3000 is because its not as wide as the Arc Midi = no h100 pull push, still very nice build ekg84


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Very nice.
> What did you use to hide the fan case and leave only the blades showing?


My guess is cut a hole in the sponge or what Blizlake said.


----------



## ampy60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I'm finally done, I managed to stuff 120.5 worth of radiator in the Arc Mini with no cutting of the case, the only thing I had to do was drill out the rivets for the lower HDD cage. I'm going to replace the PCI slot covers with some black ones and I need to find new filter material for the front grille, that brillo pad stuff was terrible. A few more small mods and it will be perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management was a huge chore, it took longer than anything else to get done (my own fault, there was too much cables for the tiny case).


OMG this is so sexy, I NEED! How much did everything cost, and what's it running?


----------



## Otterclock

Any word on a follow up to the R3? Or is the R3 gonna be sticking around a while? I realize nobody can really know for sure, but pure speculation based on past history is fine. I know the waiting game is a no-win battle, but we're in the middle of a fairly heavy release activity amongst manufacturers at the moment, and I'd rather avoid buying an R3 only for a refresh to appear a month later. Three months away, I dont care. Guesses, hunches, and psychic predictions are welcome. I mean, its been like a year and a half since the R3 methinks.

sorry if this question is common. Its a big thread.


----------



## joeyck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> OMG this is so sexy, I NEED! How much did everything cost, and what's it running?


Thats a GTX 590 + i5 2500K Source Scroll down


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> my lightly modded core 3000:


Nice! That build is a work of art!


----------



## macarule

got my new motherboard







got a decent colour scheme going now







i plan on replacing all the 140mm fans with noiseblocker pk3's







when i get the $$, then a new PSU and im planning on sleeving it all with para cord


----------



## axipher

You need to fix the rainbow of those cables


----------



## macarule

there's no way im going to sharpie them!


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> there's no way im going to sharpie them!


Electrical tape? Spray paint?







lol


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Electrical tape? Spray paint?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


New power supply?


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Just finnished modding the front of my Arc Midi. Now has no filters with only 2 fan holes showing off my Aerocool Sharks. Try and get pics up tomorrow


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> [*]The fan controller was a pain to wire without having wires hanging over the MB...and I had to use an extra (massive) molex cable from my modular PSU....which makes life even worse behind the MB tray, but it's nice that they throw a controller in.


Same for me (I have a midi). I hated the fan controller wiring (and position) so much, I bought an NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller, problem nicely solved.

On top, it seems to me in your build you have only 1 sdd, 1 hdd and 1 optical drive, same as me. I managed to use only 2 cables from my power supply: 1 for the graphic card and 1 with 4 molex: 1 for the sentry mesh, and the others for the drives (with NZXT braided cables molex to sata).


----------



## adi518

Huge update on my case !


















hope you guys like it :>

what you see is pretty much thanks to this site: www.moddiy.com

it's some guy from Hong Kong who's running it and he's just fricking amazing guy.


----------



## solsamurai




----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Huge update on my case !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you guys like it :>
> what you see is pretty much thanks to this site: www.moddiy.com
> it's some guy from Hong Kong who's running it and he's just fricking amazing guy.


Bookmarked. Nice job BTW!







You do not want to see what's behind my MB tray.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Same for me (I have a midi). I hated the fan controller wiring (and position) so much, I bought an NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller, problem nicely solved.
> On top, it seems to me in your build you have only 1 sdd, 1 hdd and 1 optical drive, same as me. I managed to use only 2 cables from my power supply: 1 for the graphic card and 1 with 4 molex: 1 for the sentry mesh, and the others for the drives (with NZXT braided cables molex to sata).


Yes, I might change the fan controller, although I like its position. Thanks for the recommendation.









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## YangerD

Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade to a 2500K with the Gene-Z board. I can't choose between the Mini and the Midi. I need help guys


----------



## CHRISOD

Can any Define XL owners help me out. I'm trying to put together a really really quiet PC. Will be a 2500k cooled by a Noctua nh-d14, a GTX580 with the arctic cooling accelero xtreme cooler. No HDD's but 2 SSD's. I've heard the XL and R3 are quiet cases but was hoping for some input from some Define XL owners about how quiet the case is.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade to a 2500K with the Gene-Z board. I can't choose between the *Mini* and the Midi. I need help guys


Small is in !!!


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Bookmarked. Nice job BTW!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You do not want to see what's behind my MB tray.


Haha, wanna see behind my tray??


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Here is the inside of case. I have since fixed those fan controller cables on top, but I don't have a pic yet. Is there anyone else here who feels that there are just too many HDD slots? I could use another 5.25" bay. That hard drive silencer is just resting on top of the drive cage.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> Haha, wanna see behind my tray??


If you really care for ethics, it might be worth getting a sleeving kit...









Seriously tho, I see too many people buying new cases designed to hide cables and have them organized. The fact that you don't see these cables don't mean it has to be in a huge clutter.

But..it seems most don't maximize this potential which sorts of voids the point for getting one of them new cases.


----------



## gceclifton

I thought the idea of being able to hide the cables behind the motherboard tray was so that you maximise airflow over the components by getting the cables out of the way... I do prefer a tidy collection of cables in my PC though


----------



## rrohbeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHRISOD*
> 
> Can any Define XL owners help me out. I'm trying to put together a really really quiet PC. Will be a 2500k cooled by a Noctua nh-d14, a GTX580 with the arctic cooling accelero xtreme cooler. No HDD's but 2 SSD's. I've heard the XL and R3 are quiet cases but was hoping for some input from some Define XL owners about how quiet the case is.


My Define XL is incredibly quiet. I have 5 HDs and 9 fans inside, among them 3x 38mm Deltas and when they're running at low rpms you can't hear it over the fan of my laptop. It takes 25% (running 2 cores) on my 4.5GHz FX-8150 to kick the fans up one notch and then you hear a very light breeze.
Of course at 100% the Deltas are loud but it's still very bearable thanks to the case. Right now the noise from the Deltas blows straight out the back and I'm thinking of baffling that somehow.


----------



## ampy60

adi518, So Was looking at your system on the previous page and I had a though. I guess this goes for everyone posting pics on this thread buy why don't more people remove the mounting bracket(s) for their expansion cards and spay paint them WHITE so as to match the factory ones and continue the white accented internal appearance.


----------



## adi518

Its certainly possible. Basically, I'm not done with my rig and I do have similar ideas to what you described.


----------



## CHRISOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrohbeck*
> 
> My Define XL is incredibly quiet. I have 5 HDs and 9 fans inside, among them 3x 38mm Deltas and when they're running at low rpms you can't hear it over the fan of my laptop. It takes 25% (running 2 cores) on my 4.5GHz FX-8150 to kick the fans up one notch and then you hear a very light breeze.
> Of course at 100% the Deltas are loud but it's still very bearable thanks to the case. Right now the noise from the Deltas blows straight out the back and I'm thinking of baffling that somehow.


K awesome, think i'll probably end up getting an XL. How is it for cooling though, do you reckon it would be good enough to keep the 2500k and 580 w/ accelero extreme cool enough to also run at low RPM's to be really quiet ?


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's my little beast









I'm impressed with FD cases.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

My intake fan mod





Sorry for the crap photography.


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> If you really care for ethics, it might be worth getting a sleeving kit...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously tho, I see too many people buying new cases designed to hide cables and have them organized. The fact that you don't see these cables don't mean it has to be in a huge clutter.
> But..it seems most don't maximize this potential which sorts of voids the point for getting one of them new cases.


I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to say. The only visible cable on the inside of the case are the fan controller cables. The cables running from the fan headers are all sleeved extensions. Lol, yes behind the mobo tray is a disaster, but I'm not sure how to improve this. There must be 30 cables back there and the only way to get the side panel back on is to spread them out across the back of the tray.

Were you suggesting that I sleeve the cables behind the tray? To be honest I'm not sure that's worth doing. I see lots of people's pics with very neat cases. For me it is very difficult to get things looking that neat. If anyone has any tips I'm all ears







I can't stand the location of the fan controller that come's with the case. That is poorly designed IMO.


----------



## csm725

Okay guys, question.
I can get the Arc Midi for $100 in Israel, brand new!








I know it's an awesome case, but two questions:
1) Are there any obvious downsides to it?
2) How loud is it with the three included fans?
Thanks guys!


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to say. The only visible cable on the inside of the case are the fan controller cables. The cables running from the fan headers are all sleeved extensions. Lol, yes behind the mobo tray is a disaster, but I'm not sure how to improve this. There must be 30 cables back there and the only way to get the side panel back on is to spread them out across the back of the tray.
> Were you suggesting that I sleeve the cables behind the tray? To be honest I'm not sure that's worth doing. I see lots of people's pics with very neat cases. For me it is very difficult to get things looking that neat. If anyone has any tips I'm all ears
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't stand the location of the fan controller that come's with the case. That is poorly designed IMO.


Best solution is probably selling your current power supply and getting a modular one. Doing just that will cut clutter by at least 70%. From my psu there're only 4 cables, 24-pin, pci-e cable, cpu and one 6-pin peripheral cable. Then, you could either sleeve the psu or use sleeved extensions. Also if you have a black case, it's best to go with black sata cables and if you get sleeved ones they're actually easier to manage because they become kinda curby and nice.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> My intake fan mod


Nice!


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Okay guys, question.
> I can get the Arc Midi for $100 in Israel, brand new!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it's an awesome case, but two questions:
> 1) Are there any obvious downsides to it?
> 2) How loud is it with the three included fans?
> Thanks guys!


I would say this case is in the top 5 you can buy for $100

1) It's a bit larger than other mid-tower cases. This is great because there is more room for cable management and aftermarket coolers. It's bad however, if your place is really tight on space. Also, there are only 2- 5.25" bays. I need at least 3. Although I love the case, I would not have bought it if I noticed that.

2) The three fans IMO are just too loud. The case comes with a fan controller which can slow the speed down and reduce air noise, but these fans will always click and whine. I would plan on replacing them. Most of them can be replaced with 120mm fans if you choose, except for the the front intake fan which only hold 140mm, unless you modify it of course.


----------



## csm725

Size and 5.25" bays are no issue. I only need the two.
Ouch, not what I was hoping to hear. I have a fan controller (NZXT Sentry Mesh) and I would run all three fans at the lowest I could (7v).


----------



## Blizlake

I've heard one person to say that the stock fans suck and another say that they're fine. I don't think they're too bad when overvolted, but I wouldnt run them @12v. I'm a bit sensitive to noise though.


----------



## axipher

The stock fan on my Design Core 1000 is dead silent, but doesn't push much air. I find it better then some stock Cooler Master case fans I've sen though.


----------



## csm725

I can't stand stock CM case fans... anyways, anyone else on if the included fans in the Arc Midi running at 7v would be loud?


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I can't stand stock CM case fans... anyways, anyone else on if the included fans in the Arc Midi running at 7v would be loud?


I think that it's just a matter of your noise tolerance. I am super sensitive I admit, someone who is not may tolerate it undervolted to 5 or 7V. Fractal does make a "Silent" series fan, but these are not it. The tick drove me crazy. I noticed a big difference when replacing with 140mm Scythe Slipstream and 140mm Thermalright


----------



## csm725

Maybe you got 3 defective ones?








This is stopping me from buying the case, lol. I'm not so good with annoying noises, so if they make a tick, I won't be able to use the fans. I can't replace them.


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Maybe you got 3 defective ones?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is stopping me from buying the case, lol. I'm not so good with annoying noises, so if they make a tick, I won't be able to use the fans. I can't replace them.


I'm sorry to hear that. You are missing out on a great case. Any case I buy, I would plan on replacing the fans anyway, so the quality of the fans don't detract from the case IMHO. I wish they came with no fans so I didn't have to pay for them.

I have heard a few other people claim the same thing. A good place to look is newegg.com. You can read dozens more user reviews there to get more feedback and make a decision. Amazon too.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I can't stand stock CM case fans... anyways, anyone else on if the included fans in the Arc Midi running at 7v would be loud?


I use the 3 fans slowed down by the controller. With it, they are quiet enough to be inaudable and i hate too much noise. They are lower quality fans than the ones Fractal Design sell seperatly (cant remember the OEM) but still good fans. They still move enough air to provide all the exhaust for my case and my temps are great.

Hope this helps


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Size and 5.25" bays are no issue. I only need the two.
> Ouch, not what I was hoping to hear. I have a fan controller (NZXT Sentry Mesh) and I would run all three fans at the lowest I could (7v).


I actually have the FD Core 3000 case, but I have an NZXT Sentry Mesh controller as well and I have the three included FD fans (2x 120mm and a 140mm) as well as 3x 120mm and a 140mm NZXT white fans all hooked up to this controller. When I put all the switches down, I really can't hear anything. Though I don't do that because my CPU temps with my H60 begins to quickly rise.... it is still very quiet. Not to mention that the Sentry Mesh looks awesome with FD cases


----------



## rrohbeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHRISOD*
> 
> K awesome, think i'll probably end up getting an XL. How is it for cooling though, do you reckon it would be good enough to keep the 2500k and 580 w/ accelero extreme cool enough to also run at low RPM's to be really quiet ?


I read in a review somewhere that the airflow is mediocre with stock fans so this is what I did:
- Mount the stock rear fan in the front bottom position
- Mount the 140mm fan from the NH-D14 in the back of the case
- Mount the 120mm fan from the NH-D14 in the front top position
- Open all compartment dividers
- Put some more powerful fans on the NH-D14. It was great running at a moderate overclock but not for pushing the FX-8150. Of course it all depends upon how far you want to push your CPU.
I just made a new pic of the latest status after I added a shroud on the intake fan.

A 260cfm San Ace and a 120x25mm150cfm Delta are in the mail


----------



## solsamurai

Seems like you should replace that Noctua as it can't push as much air as the other fans on the D14. Or will that be accomplished with the fans you mentioned are in the mail?


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> I wish they came with no fans so I didn't have to pay for them.


Absolutely agree 100%.

Did my 1st Fractal install 4 months ago & have an additional 2 under me belt. [friends and family plan]

Got the case, for the case....not the fans. These guys have put one heck of a great box together, with what I consider to be quite the bargain price. No way you're get this kinda case, with premium fans, and still pay $99

Since cooling is "kinda"







important....why gamble with the unknown ? *sarcasm*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> I use the 3 fans slowed down by the controller. With it, they are quiet enough to be inaudable and i hate too much noise.


I've used fan controllers on my last 4 cases, going back 6-7 years. This one "piece" adds an incredible amount of versatility ata VERY low price point. Can't imagine running without one.










Don't think I paid much more than 20-25 dollars


----------



## K4IKEN

I really wish I could see the Midi's faux brushed aluminum design in person. I'm between the Midi and the Lian Li PC9F; the Midi just has so many features for the price and it looks so good, but so does the 9F. I'm leaning heavily toward the Midi but I just want to see it in person first, the WC ability without modding is just amazing to me, the case was designed perfectly.

Now time to wait for the tax refund..


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I've used fan controllers on my last 4 cases, going back 6-7 years. This one "piece" adds an incredible amount of versatility ata VERY low price point. Can't imagine running without one.


Yeah, i use the controller so much that iv ordered a Scythe Kaze Master Pro. It will let me control all my fans more easily. There so simple yet so useful.


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Yeah, i use the controller so much that iv ordered a Scythe Kaze Master Pro. It will let me control all my fans more easily. There so simple yet so useful.


depends on what case you got. the kaze master pro has 6 protruding knobs that may not fit into a case with doors.


----------



## candy_van

OK - case swap complete, here she is at the moment (sans a decent vid card lol)











Popped off the fan covers (since they murder airflow lol), and just have the filters.
I'm using AP-14s and while they're quite, it makes an annoying pulsing noise once I shut the case door as they draw in air from the vent.

Open up the front door a bit, boom, goes away...not really a big deal...but still, kinda annoying (I'd have to use weaker fans / undervolt mine then I guess).

Also anyone know where to get the Fractal Fans, I know they're not powerful, but I'd like to have a few extra on hand (have a few things in mind for 'em)?
(I'd need another silent series 120mm and 140mm)


----------



## catbuster

any nice cpu cooler to fit in core 1000?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> any nice cpu cooler to fit in core 1000?


I like my Coolit Eco.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclum*
> 
> depends on what case you got. the kaze master pro has 6 protruding knobs that may not fit into a case with doors.


It's okay, I have an Arc


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> any nice cpu cooler to fit in core 1000?


I'm sure you could fit something like this in there:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185174

Or a cooler like that where the fan is parallel with the board.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> any nice cpu cooler to fit in core 1000?


I have a Cooler Master Geminii S in my Core 1000. Great cooler.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

I have a CM 212 EVO with just the stock CM XtraFlow 120mm fan configured as push...and my i7 2600k running at 3.8 (stepped down to 1.6 at idle) is at ambient temps at a silent 900 RPM at idle in my Arc Mini. Load temps are also very reasonable. I was going to drop on a pull fan, but results in this thread indicate that if you do so, you would need to remove the rear exhaust fan to really get any real benefit:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning

I know this cooler gets slammed a lot (vs things like the D14, HR-02 macho), but unless you are pushing the limits of OC, it works fantastic, is inexpensive, is very quiet at medium RPMs, and doesn't threaten to short out your GPU.


----------



## rrohbeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Seems like you should replace that Noctua as it can't push as much air as the other fans on the D14. Or will that be accomplished with the fans you mentioned are in the mail?


Not needed right now - the air inside the case doesn't go above ambient+7C. The issue is getting the heat away from the heatpipes and fins.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrohbeck*
> 
> Not needed right now - the air inside the case doesn't go above ambient+7C. The issue is getting the heat away from the heatpipes and fins.


Hence the need for a fan that can pull more air out of the case, yea?


----------



## rrohbeck

Motherboard cooling with a cannibalized Kingston Hyper-X RAM cooler (fans reversed.)


----------



## rrohbeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Hence the need for a fan that can pull more air out of the case, yea?


Right now I'm not even using the case fans to the maximum of their ability. I have set the most aggressive fan control in the BIOS but they don't go up to full speed. Maybe in the summer during an extended prime testing session...


----------



## adi518

ekg84, I just love that avatar of yours lol...

u got good taste !

Anyways, how do you think I can light up my system?


----------



## adi518

* double post, sorry


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> ekg84, I just love that avatar of yours lol...
> u got good taste !
> Anyways, how do you think I can light up my system?


Thanx man









I'd get couple of white led strips and mount one up top and the second one lets say on the hdd cage facing the mobo/back of the case, you'd need to play with it to see what looks you prefer, but you'll need at least 2 light sources.

kinda like these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12825/lit-244/BitFenix_Alchemy_Connect_6_LED_Light_Strip_-_120mm_-_White_BFA-ACL-12WK6-RP.html?tl=c77s126b193

btw its a beautiful system u got there


----------



## candy_van

Anyone have an extra stock 120mm fan they don't need here in the US?
I'm sure I could contact Fractal for one (since apparently they sell them nowhere in the states), but i'd just as soon get one from a fellow OCNer.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

I have heard of people arranging a purchase through FD themselves about getting more fans, but I know people who get them off ebay through international sellers.


----------



## candy_van

^ Yea I found a 140mm fan on eBay and got it domestically, but the only sellers for 120mms on eBay are in the UK and the cost is outrageous :/


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Anyone have an extra stock 120mm fan they don't need here in the US?
> I'm sure I could contact Fractal for one (since apparently they sell them nowhere in the states), but i'd just as soon get one from a fellow OCNer.


NCIX sells Fractal, both in Canada and USA, did you look at their sites? They must be selling the fans as well.


----------



## Blizlake

I've heard NZXT's fans are almost identical to fractal's white fans.


----------



## Hillskill

R3 sitting next to a HAF932


----------



## adi518

Now ask yourself how did you pick the Haf in the first place


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> ^ Yea I found a 140mm fan on eBay and got it domestically, but the only sellers for 120mms on eBay are in the UK and the cost is outrageous :/


True. I wish their fans and power supplies were easier to obtain


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> NCIX sells Fractal, both in Canada and USA, did you look at their sites? They must be selling the fans as well.


They don't have 120 or 140mm fans listed on their US site, and it won't allow you to purchase from their Canada site (which does have them) + ship to the US :/


----------



## longlive775

Quick question for you Core 3000 owners; can it accomodate an H100 at the top?
Or maybe on the front, if I remove the drive cages and put shrouds?

Thanks!


----------



## Hillskill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Now ask yourself how did you pick the Haf in the first place










Ahh thats harsh! I love my HAF. the R3 is my server build (I really should do sig deets for it). On the whole I found the R3 far less sturdy then the HAF and of course less roomy. If I could go back I would buy the XL in a heartbeat. Eitherway though I love the 9HDD bays and I will probably convert the two 5.25" bays to squeeze even more drives in. Cable management is nice and neat and airflow is fairly decent.


----------



## rrohbeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rrohbeck*
> 
> Motherboard cooling with a cannibalized Kingston Hyper-X RAM cooler (fans reversed.)


Sounded like a cool idea, but increased my temps a little








Oh well. It seems like that case is thought out well and there's a good reason for the door behind the CPU.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

*Need advice: 120mm PWM case fans for Arc Mini*

Okay, so I am now officially over the Arc Mini's case fans. They have a "tick" that I find maddening. For now, I have them dialed fairly low using the Fractal fan controller, but what I would really like to do is get thee new 120mm *PWM* fans and use my Gene-Z to control their RPM precisely...rather than screwing with a knob.

My case runs very cool as is...so I am looking for something that I can run at under 1000 RPM. I may allow the Gene-z to control them dynamically if necessary, so higher RPM under load is fine, but I am striving for nearly silent at idle, which granted, is a challenge with this meshy box.

Anyone have any advice? So far, I am considering the following:

*Akasa Apache Black Super:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10345/fan-675/Akasa_120mm_x_25mm_Apache_Black_Super_Silent_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_-_Black.html?tl=g36c365s936

*Cooler Master Blade Master:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9780/fan-619/Cooler_Master_Blade_Master_120mm_x_25mm_PWM_Fan_R4-BMBS-20PK-R0.html?tl=g36c365s936

*Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PLPS:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12692/fan-826/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PLPS_120mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_PWM_Fan_-_600-1500_RPM_-_8-24_dBA.html?tl=g36c365s936

*Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-PS:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12548/fan-821/Noiseblocker_NB-Multiframe_M12-PS_120mmx25mm_Super_Ultra_Silent_PWM_Fan_-_600-1500_RPM_-_7-23_dBA.html?tl=g36c365s936

I don't care about the cost. I'll pay for silent...but I don't like brown, so Noctua is out. Shoot me.









Thanks!


----------



## Blizlake

Can't go wrong with Akasa







Also heard good things about Cooler Master Excalibur fans.


----------



## psyclum

define R3 on sale at newegg today


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclum*
> 
> define R3 on sale at newegg today


yeah I was considering that, though I was leaning towards the Arc Midi.

I'm kinda concerned about cable management room in the R3, and the space between the PSU and bottom intake fan looks really tight. Any issues with that bottom fan being fettered by cabling? I have a modular, but still. I'm trying not to get another case where the back panel is a nightmare to take off on and due to being so cramped with cables.

Any real advantage to an R3 over just getting an Arc Midi and dampening it myself? Thats the question I ask myself as I stare between these browser tabs..

this photo scares me a bit (courtesy of Anandtech)


Spoiler: Warning: photo!


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> this photo scares me a bit (courtesy of Anandtech)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: photo!


Well you better be. That's what happens when you spend zero minutes to manage cables and just stuff everything in the case.
Honestly, they haven't even tried.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> this photo scares me a bit (courtesy of Anandtech)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: photo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well you better be. That's what happens when you spend zero minutes to manage cables and just stuff everything in the case.
> Honestly, they haven't even tried.
Click to expand...

Yep, I love all the beautiful cable management holes... That aren't being used.


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> *Need advice: 120mm PWM case fans for Arc Mini*
> Okay, so I am now officially over the Arc Mini's case fans. They have a "tick" that I find maddening. For now, I have them dialed fairly low using the Fractal fan controller, but what I would really like to do is get thee new 120mm *PWM* fans and use my Gene-Z to control their RPM precisely...rather than screwing with a knob.
> My case runs very cool as is...so I am looking for something that I can run at under 1000 RPM. I may allow the Gene-z to control them dynamically if necessary, so higher RPM under load is fine, but I am striving for nearly silent at idle, which granted, is a challenge with this meshy box.
> Anyone have any advice? So far, I am considering the following:
> *Akasa Apache Black Super:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10345/fan-675/Akasa_120mm_x_25mm_Apache_Black_Super_Silent_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_-_Black.html?tl=g36c365s936
> *Cooler Master Blade Master:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9780/fan-619/Cooler_Master_Blade_Master_120mm_x_25mm_PWM_Fan_R4-BMBS-20PK-R0.html?tl=g36c365s936
> *Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PLPS:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12692/fan-826/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PLPS_120mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_PWM_Fan_-_600-1500_RPM_-_8-24_dBA.html?tl=g36c365s936
> *Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-PS:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12548/fan-821/Noiseblocker_NB-Multiframe_M12-PS_120mmx25mm_Super_Ultra_Silent_PWM_Fan_-_600-1500_RPM_-_7-23_dBA.html?tl=g36c365s936
> I don't care about the cost. I'll pay for silent...but I don't like brown, so Noctua is out. Shoot me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Not sure which is quieter but I think either of the Noiseblockers would look sick.


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> Any real advantage to an R3 over just getting an Arc Midi and dampening it myself? Thats the question I ask myself as I stare between these browser tabs..


well aside from the obvious extra work of dampening it yourself not really. you can technically get "better" foam, but the additional cost of that better foam can be used elsewhere like dynamatting your mobo tray dynamatting the mobo tray should give you better results anyway. remember noise comes from 2 sources. friction and vibration. foam cuts down on airborne friction noise but vibration is better taken care of by rubber / dynamat.


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Well you better be. That's what happens when you spend zero minutes to manage cables and just stuff everything in the case.
> Honestly, they haven't even tried.


Good point. I wasn't sure if it was such a mess due to lack of room for management or if they just didn't put in the effort. If it's the latter, I'm happy to hear it, ha. I have much respect for Anandtech but sometimes their case reviews leave me puzzled.

The extra width of the Arc Midi along with it's modular bay is very appealing (especially since I'll be getting a new cooler soon and the Midi opens up more options, i.e. Archon), but acoustic features and smokin' price of the R3 are nice as well. tick tock. I shouldnt make this decision based on price, though. Rarely turns out well.


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> Good point. I wasn't sure if it was such a mess due to lack of room for management or if they just didn't put in the effort. If it's the latter, I'm happy to hear it, ha. I have much respect for Anandtech but sometimes their case reviews leave me puzzled.


anandtech doesn't do wire management for looks since they tear down the machine after it's been tested anyway. for them, as long as the wires aren't in the way of airflow, they can care less as to what it looks like if you look at the pic closely, none of the cables are in the way of major airflow paths. so as long it doesn't skew their test results, it can be as ugly as sin and still server their purpose

there is a difference between building a machine for testing purpose and building a machine to show off your ninja cable skeelz


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclum*
> 
> there is a difference between building a machine for testing purpose and building a machine to show off your ninja cable skeelz


This is OCN, no matter what the purpose of the build is, cable management counts haha. That includes any posted pictures as well


----------



## Blizlake

Decisions decisions decisions...









R3 for quieter system, Arc midi for airflow. That said, R3 will keep your components cool too but as you said, midi can take bigger heatsinks and more fans. To answer your earlier question at the same time, it would take some work to have arc midi as quiet has the R3 as arc midi has big mesh areas from which sound can escape while R3 has basically none. Buuuut with some effort, Arc midi could be as silent as R3.


----------



## csm725

What can I do to quieten the Midi?
I'll be running the case fans 2 in the front and one on the side, so I will be able to do the following:
Cool the HDD's with the 140mm I'll place on the bottom
Remove middle HDD cage for more direct airflow
Let the D14's pull fan act as exhaust fan
Move 140mm exhaust fan to side panel
Lower GPU fan speed means less noise in case
All 3 case fans run at 7v

Anything else, or is the Midi just a loud case?


----------



## Lukegrimbley

I bought an R3 and sent it back in favour of the Midi. IMO its a more flexable case overall which was the reason for my choice. There is also a bit more room to work in the Arc but the R3 certainly dosent lack in space to route cables. Was a difficult choice for me at the time but im glad i picked the Arc. Would have been delighted with the R3 aswell i have no doubt.


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> What can I do to silence the Midi?
> 
> Anything else?


SSD?







if you put your OS and your major prog's on the SSD, your mechanical storage drive will spin down after awhile(you can set that in windows anyway) and that's a big reduction on a quiet system.


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Decisions decisions decisions...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R3 for quieter system, Arc midi for airflow. That said, R3 will keep your components cool too but as you said, midi can take bigger heatsinks and more fans. To answer your earlier question at the same time, it would take some work to have arc midi as quiet has the R3 as arc midi has big mesh areas from which sound can escape while R3 has basically none. Buuuut with some effort, Arc midi could be as silent as R3.


it's much harder to get the midi to as quiet as the R3 due to the lack of front door. the foam in the front door directly reduce the noise of the intake fans and that would be hard for the midi to mitigate.


----------



## csm725

Ummm I have an SSD. However setting that option in Windows can cause the HDD to shut off and your rig to BSOD when you try to access that HDD.


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Decisions decisions decisions...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R3 for quieter system, Arc midi for airflow. That said, R3 will keep your components cool too but as you said, midi can take bigger heatsinks and more fans. To answer your earlier question at the same time, it would take some work to have arc midi as quiet has the R3 as arc midi has big mesh areas from which sound can escape while R3 has basically none. Buuuut with some effort, Arc midi could be as silent as R3.


I'm have plenty of dampening material lying around from other builds and quality fans to accommodate any slot.

I would likely seal off the entire roof of the Arc Midi, as well as the side vent, as neither offers benefits for my preferred cooling/airflow config. The space for a rear 140mm fan on the Midi is a big seller for me; that isn't something easily rectified or modded on a smaller case. For front intakes I actually prefer 120mm but thats minor.

I think I'll not give in to the smokin' deal and go with my gut telling me the Midi ultimately would turn out to be a better fit for me. You guys have been more helpful than you know. Sorry to disrupt this thread. I'll come back when I can join the club.


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Ummm I have an SSD. However setting that option in Windows can cause the HDD to shut off and your rig to BSOD when you try to access that HDD.


I haven't personally encountered that problem yet, but then again, i'm running a 240gig SSD and majority of my progs are on the SSD. i only use mechanical drive as pure storage these days. none of my active stuff are on the mechanical drives anymore. whenever i access anything on my mechanical drive i have to wait about 8 seconds for the drive to spin up


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> I think I'll not give in to the smokin' deal and go with my gut telling me the Midi ultimately would turn out to be a better fit for me. You guys have been more helpful than you know. Sorry to disrupt this thread. I'll come back when I can join the club.


well $110 + free shipping is nice for a R3....







do it, you know you want to DO IT!!!!


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclum*
> 
> well $110 + free shipping is nice for a R3....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do it, you know you want to DO IT!!!!


You're eeeevil.

The cons: HDD bay I would need to mod, less space behind mobo, no 140mm rear exhaust, space constraints in case I decide to get an Archon or what have you, less configurability of the top mounted airflow should decide to use it for an all-out posi-press setup. Pros: Nice pre-installed dampening/front door I can shut when running silent. Slick looking. Side vent sealed up nicely. Cheap.

I don't mind modding the bay but it would be nice not to have to, and even if I cut off the top half it wouldn't have the flexibility of the Midi's modular bay.

Or I can wait for reviews of the Corsair 550d to roll in. But Corsair isn't Swedish. I mean, Swedish computer case. That's just kinda neat.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

or take advantage of Newegg's shell shocker of a black r3 for $80 shipped!


----------



## psyclum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> or take advantage of Newegg's shell shocker of a black r3 for $80 shipped!


what he said i thought i had my page on the shell shocker deal but i guess it was displaying regular price since i didn't refresh the page


----------



## paulkemp

Just installed my old computer in the case. Sweet installation process. Haven't booed it yet since I'm using the opportunity to slap one some new CPU paste

Anyway, I have a few silent 80mm fans from my old case, how do i mount them? I'm lost here, there is no apparent screw holes in them.
edit: Found out, either with the included screws or with some other scews you have.

Another question, how do I mount power to the fan controller? From where should I take that power?
edit: Ahhh, it's obvious. With the included power adapter.

And a third, what's the best for air pressure? Two fans in, two out? Or one in and 3 out? Thanks folks

Edit; Ok,I'm going for this, but I'm skipping the one at the bottom. That make two in, front and side. And two out, back and top.










Edit, this is the Define R3.

Thanks forums.bf2s.com for the pic


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyclum*
> 
> depends on what case you got. the kaze master pro has 6 protruding knobs that may not fit into a case with doors.


there is a new flat edition btw


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> there is a new flat edition btw


I'm now depressed. May have to sent it back when it arrives to get this. Wish i knew this before i ordered


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Ummm I have an SSD. However setting that option in Windows can cause the HDD to shut off and your rig to BSOD when you try to access that HDD.


Can this happen? If you are using the HDD for data storage only and not for any OS functions or programs, is it still possible to BSOD when accessed? You know I tried this for a short period of time and my disk was making all kinds of racket. Knocking and tapping like you wouldn't believe. I thought the disk was dying. I have it back in the HDD silencer now.


----------



## adi518

Anyone knows a good hot-swap 3.5" hdd bay top go nicely with the r3 ? I know about the Antec Easy Sata but I'm wondering if there're better ones.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> *Need advice: 120mm PWM case fans for Arc Mini*
> Okay, so I am now officially over the Arc Mini's case fans. They have a "tick" that I find maddening. For now, I have them dialed fairly low using the Fractal fan controller, but what I would really like to do is get thee new 120mm *PWM* fans and use my Gene-Z to control their RPM precisely...rather than screwing with a knob.
> My case runs very cool as is...so I am looking for something that I can run at under 1000 RPM. I may allow the Gene-z to control them dynamically if necessary, so higher RPM under load is fine, but I am striving for nearly silent at idle, which granted, is a challenge with this meshy box.
> Anyone have any advice? So far, I am considering the following:
> *Akasa Apache Black Super:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10345/fan-675/Akasa_120mm_x_25mm_Apache_Black_Super_Silent_PWM_Fan_w_Hydro_Dynamic_Bearings_-_Black.html?tl=g36c365s936
> *Cooler Master Blade Master:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9780/fan-619/Cooler_Master_Blade_Master_120mm_x_25mm_PWM_Fan_R4-BMBS-20PK-R0.html?tl=g36c365s936
> *Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PLPS:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12692/fan-826/Noiseblocker_NB-BlackSilentPro_PLPS_120mm_x_25mm_Ultra_Quiet_PWM_Fan_-_600-1500_RPM_-_8-24_dBA.html?tl=g36c365s936
> *Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe M12-PS:* http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12548/fan-821/Noiseblocker_NB-Multiframe_M12-PS_120mmx25mm_Super_Ultra_Silent_PWM_Fan_-_600-1500_RPM_-_7-23_dBA.html?tl=g36c365s936
> I don't care about the cost. I'll pay for silent...but I don't like brown, so Noctua is out. Shoot me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks for the replies folks...but if anyone has actually swapped out fans in a Mini, I'd be grateful to hear your experiences/advice. Thanks.


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> Can this happen? If you are using the HDD for data storage only and not for any OS functions or programs, is it still possible to BSOD when accessed? You know I tried this for a short period of time and my disk was making all kinds of racket. Knocking and tapping like you wouldn't believe. I thought the disk was dying. I have it back in the HDD silencer now.


Yes. If you try to access a drive that doesn't exist Windows will go crazy on you.


----------



## bluffmasta

I just have one question for arch midi case on the top of case and front of case is the dust filter washable?


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluffmasta*
> 
> I just have one question for arch midi case on the top of case and front of case is the dust filter washable?


You can wash it but it's better to just use compressed air or something. The top and front are easily removable.


----------



## paulkemp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bluffmasta*
> 
> I just have one question for arch midi case on the top of case and front of case is the dust filter washable?


Use a slightly moist washing cloth. Just like a drop of water on the opposite site from where you are washing.


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> there is a new flat edition btw


I'm waiting for this to arrive at Aquatuning.de. Dunno how I'll mount it but I'll figure something out. Today I drilled out the 5 1/2 bays to make room for a 360 rad. Doesn't look too bad. The bays where ugly anyway.


----------



## Otterclock

A question for you fine folks who have experience with the Arc Midi: will the front intake fan slots hold 120mm holed 140s? Such as the TY-140 etc.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> A question for you fine folks who have experience with the Arc Midi: will the front intake fan slots hold 120mm holed 140s? Such as the TY-140 etc.


Nope, the fan clips only hold "regular" fans, so no TY140's or NF-P14's. Not without modding anyway.
I'm not 100% as I haven't played around with it in a while though.


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Nope, the fan clips only hold "regular" fans, so no TY140's or NF-P14's. Not without modding anyway.
> I'm not 100% as I haven't played around with it in a while though.


I see. Many thanks.


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jodiuh*
> 
> Finally tore into this thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link to the slideshow.
> 
> 1. Cut fan grill from rear exhaust.
> 2. Cut fan grill from PSU intake.
> 3. Cut 6 HDD bays.
> 
> And yes, it definitely helped temps. Also worth noting that the included fan controller doesn't seem to spin my SFLEX' @ the full 1200RPM. They're definitely not pushing as much air as they do on a molex/mobo connector.


I'm looking to remove the grill on my exhaust fan. What would you recommend to use to remove them?
I've googled a short bit, will decent tin snips do?

I'd rather not spend $50 on a dremel since I'm a college student


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> I'm looking to remove the grill on my exhaust fan. What would you recommend to use to remove them?
> I've googled a short bit, will decent tin snips do?
> I'd rather not spend $50 on a dremel since I'm a college student


This tool will be perfect.







Lots of pictures in this thread as well plus really good advice on airflow.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> I'm looking to remove the grill on my exhaust fan. What would you recommend to use to remove them?
> I've googled a short bit, will decent tin snips do?
> 
> I'd rather not spend $50 on a dremel since I'm a college student


Worked fine on my old Sonata.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> I'm waiting for this to arrive at Aquatuning.de. Dunno how I'll mount it but I'll figure something out. Today I drilled out the 5 1/2 bays to make room for a 360 rad. Doesn't look too bad. The bays where ugly anyway.


I wasn't aware Scythe made that. Win!

Debating between flat and Kaze Master II. Hm...


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> I'm looking to remove the grill on my exhaust fan. What would you recommend to use to remove them?
> I've googled a short bit, will decent tin snips do?
> I'd rather not spend $50 on a dremel since I'm a college student
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool will be perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of pictures in this thread as well plus really good advice on airflow.
Click to expand...

Gonna look that up! Thanks for the tip & +REP
*3 member club haha


----------



## Angrybutcher

After skimming through the last 50 pages of this thread, and doing a couple searches, I think I've found that there is roughly 330mm of space between the 5 1/4 drive bays of the Arc Midi and the floor, once you remove the 3 1/2" cages. Does anyone know if a dual 120 radiator would mount to the inside front of this case or would it need to be a dual 140? Does the bottom 3 1/2" cage unscrew or is it riveted like in the Arc MIni?

Also, to clarify the top mounts, the dual 120 radiator positioning will be directly above the motherboard, correct?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> After skimming through the last 50 pages of this thread, and doing a couple searches, I think I've found that there is roughly 330mm of space between the 5 1/4 drive bays of the Arc Midi and the floor, once you remove the 3 1/2" cages. Does anyone know if a dual 120 radiator would mount to the inside front of this case or would it need to be a dual 140? Does the bottom 3 1/2" cage unscrew or is it riveted like in the Arc MIni?
> 
> Also, to clarify the top mounts, the dual 120 radiator positioning will be directly above the motherboard, correct?


1) 240 rad will likely mount the same way as a 280 will. There aren't any screw holes you can mount the rad/fans on the front, so you'll have to rig it on the front somehow else.
2) Bottom HDD cage is riveted.
3) How do you mean "directly above"? It's offset so you'll have plenty of clearance for mobo heatsinks and ram heatspreaders, if that's what you mean.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> 1) 240 rad will likely mount the same way as a 280 will. There aren't any screw holes you can mount the rad/fans on the front, so you'll have to rig it on the front somehow else.
> 2) Bottom HDD cage is riveted.
> 3) How do you mean "directly above"? It's offset so you'll have plenty of clearance for mobo heatsinks and ram heatspreaders, if that's what you mean.


Thanks. For point 3, I was more referring to the third opening on the top, which is only 120mm in size (I believe), above the 5 1/4 bays.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Thanks. For point 3, I was more referring to the third opening on the top, which is only 120mm in size (I believe), above the 5 1/4 bays.


Just forget it's even there







I still haven't figured what use it could be of.


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> I'm looking to remove the grill on my exhaust fan. What would you recommend to use to remove them?
> I've googled a short bit, will decent tin snips do?
> I'd rather not spend $50 on a dremel since I'm a college student


I have used this to mod two cases and they worked very well.

http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-14-256-10-Inch-Aviation-Snips/dp/B003HGH46C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329081780&sr=8-1


----------



## axipher

Here's what a White and Red Fractal Design Core 1000 would look like:

*Build Log*


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> I have used this to mod two cases and they worked very well.


Agree

Nuttin' better than a good "sharp" pair of tin snips


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Gonna look that up! Thanks for the tip & +REP
> *3 member club haha


No prob! It's honestly the best tool for the job with no crazy mess after.


----------



## ekg84

a little teaser of what im doing with my core 3000







:


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> a little teaser of what im doing with my core 3000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Ohh baby, another front panel mod!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> a little teaser of what im doing with my core 3000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Looking nice, we need to fill this thread with more Fractal mods









Could we maybe at a list to the first post of people who have modded Fractal cases?


----------



## Jcoffin1981

I think the Core 3000 is even better looking than the Arc Midi.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jcoffin1981*
> 
> I think the Core 3000 is even better looking than the Arc Midi.


No doubt, it is very sharp looking, but personally, I'm not loving the small number of cable routing cutouts, lack of grommets, and no USB 3.0 on the top/front panel. I also prefer a smaller size, but the Core 1000 is even worse in what it leaves out. That said, these really are nitpicks.


----------



## Mysticode

Any idea if Fractal has any plans for a new case any time soon? I am trying to plan a new PC build.


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Any idea if Fractal has any plans for a new case any time soon? I am trying to plan a new PC build.


They're releasing a r4 soon according to one of their CES videos


----------



## Mysticode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> They're releasing a r4 soon according to one of their CES videos


My heart just skipped a beat! Please link me to this video!


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> My heart just skipped a beat! Please link me to this video!







somewhere in there I believe. if not then im sorry, but I know for sure I heard the rep say they were releasing an r4 soon from a CES video.


----------



## gceclifton

Sounds like the Design R4 will have the removable upper HDD cage too then...


----------



## Lukegrimbley

I want to see a full tower Arc. That would be the only thing that would make me upgrade to a full tower case. Even more now that i am getting my own flat and i wont have to worry about space in my bedroom at home


----------



## Iggg

Hello everyone
Got an define xl on order and has been ordering extra goodies for it

Does anyone know how thick the top 180mm fan is? (25mm or 32mm)
I'm hoping to replace it with silverstone ap181 which are 180mmx180mmx32mm thick

Also, just to confirm the rest of the case uses 25mm thick fans right? Replacing all the 140mm fans with Aerocool sharks 140mm with 15 blades!

Lastly the exhaust by the CPU. Will that take 120mm fans instead of the 140mm?
I'm planning to do push/pull with a corsair h80 using gentle typhoon ap15s there

Thank you for your answers in advance!


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iggg*
> 
> Does anyone know how thick the fan is?


Dunno the exact size....but for your reference.

I swapped out every fan in the Fractal for Noctua's. They were
an exact match; in size. And I don't think Noctua's fans come
in varying thickness's.

Hope that helps


----------



## Iggg

Hmm don't see any 180mm fans at noctua's site :/ http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=produkte&lng=en#fans


----------



## ChesterCat

Sorry bout that........
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iggg*
> 
> Also, just to confirm the rest of the case uses 25mm thick fans right? Replacing all the 140mm fans with Aerocool sharks 140mm with 15 blades!
> Lastly the exhaust by the CPU. Will that take 120mm fans instead of the 140mm?


I was referencing the other sizes you were commenting on









*STOOPID ME......... the Fractals are all 25MM ...dunno what I was[not] thinking*


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> a little teaser of what im doing with my core 3000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


That black construction paper? I don't pay attention to what happens with the mods so...


----------



## adi518

man, u make me wanna buy another fractal case, even tho I don't need it.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> That black construction paper? I don't pay attention to what happens with the mods so...


no that is a sheet of black acrylic which i sprayed flat black. I used 4 and a quarter inch hole saw to drill fan holes







all mesh has been removed. i will post complete log with lots of pics later


----------



## solsamurai

Sounds awesome. Looking forward to the pics!


----------



## PriceEddie

Got me an Arc Midi. Arrived yesterday morning in a bloody huge box, got three extra 140mm fans to go with it. The 2 front ones I am yet to plug in and I'm currently waiting on some cables to allow me to get them all running. Got to say this case is very quiet, also the coolest (temperature wise), and the coolest (bro wise) I have owned.

Here some pics I apologise in advance, the pictures are not the best quality...







All the best,

Eddie.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Nice! Welcome to the club!


----------



## csm725

Hey guys, quick Q!
Would replacing the case fans included in the Arc Midi with Silent Series 140mms be noticeably quieter?


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Hey guys, quick Q!
> Would replacing the case fans included in the Arc Midi with Silent Series 140mms be noticeably quieter?


Are you referring to the Fractal Silent Series?


----------



## PriceEddie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Nice! Welcome to the club!


Hello, thanks.

Eddie.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Hey guys, quick Q!
> Would replacing the case fans included in the Arc Midi with Silent Series 140mms be noticeably quieter?


They are meant to be a lot better. I read somewhere on here on OCN that they are much higher quality because the ones that come with the case are OEM and not really Fractal fans. The ones that come with the case are 1000rpm and the silent series ones are 800rpm (taken from Fractal Design website.) The silent series are only 9Db at full speed. I would say you would definintly notice the differance


----------



## PriceEddie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Hey guys, quick Q!
> Would replacing the case fans included in the Arc Midi with Silent Series 140mms be noticeably quieter?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> They are meant to be a lot better. I read somewhere on here on OCN that they are much higher quality because the ones that come with the case are OEM and not really Fractal fans. The ones that come with the case are 1000rpm and the silent series ones are 800rpm (taken from Fractal Design website.) The silent series are only 9Db at full speed. I would say you would definintly notice the differance


I got three 140mm with my new Arc Midi, they are brilliant. Very, very, quiet well worth a buy, and they are fairly reasonable in the price department come with all necessary screws and some rubber fasteners too.

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm-fractal-design-800-rpm-silent-series-cooling-fan-inc-rubber-fan-mounts


(they have to be good, just look at that Hollywood-esque shine!)

Eddie.


----------



## csm725

Ok, will also buy 3 of those. Only ~$13 USD here.


----------



## ekg84

took few shots of my new creation







check it out i'm very pleased with result, came out just how i wanted it


----------



## adi518

OH MAN









You gonna have to tell us exactly how you did that awesome mod.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> took few shots of my new creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check it out i'm very pleased with result, came out just how i wanted it


That, my friend, came out damn sexy.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PriceEddie*
> 
> I got three 140mm with my new Arc Midi, they are brilliant. Very, very, quiet well worth a buy, and they are fairly reasonable in the price department come with all necessary screws and some rubber fasteners too.*snip*


Figures...Fractal has yet to answer my sales inquery as to how the hell people in the US are supposed to get their fans (or if we can get them direct)...

I tried getting couple extra 120s here, and they were 7 blade while the ones in mine are 11 (wound up just getting a bunch of 1000rpm Gelids anyway).
The 140mm I got from eBay so it's an OEM pulled from a case - not the one you just listed then I take it...

They need to get their poop straight over here with that.


----------



## adi518

Just press' em hard enough and they'll get it done.

I kept sending them emails to find a dealer around here and eventually, some months after they did and I was of one of the first to get their cases.


----------



## csm725

Anything else I should know about the Arc Midi before buying?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> took few shots of my new creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check it out i'm very pleased with result, came out just how i wanted it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












I love that side panel, I'm guessing you just drilled 4 holes in the plexi, and tapped 4 holes in the case lips for those thumb screws?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> no that is a sheet of black acrylic which i sprayed flat black. I used 4 and a quarter inch hole saw to drill fan holes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all mesh has been removed. i will post complete log with lots of pics later










I know what I'm doing with a Core 1000 or 3000 if I get one.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> took few shots of my new creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check it out i'm very pleased with result, came out just how i wanted it.


Excellent job! I'm looking forward to the build log/more/pics/try to make my own side panel that awesome!!!


----------



## 161029

@ekg48 : I think I can say that I lost my virginity without doing it.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Just press' em hard enough and they'll get it done.
> I kept sending them emails to find a dealer around here and eventually, some months after they did and I was of one of the first to get their cases.


Yea I tried again, and hopefully will get some kind of response this time.
All I want to do is purchase one of those 800rpm 140mm fans for my top exhaust, if they won't get back to me I'll have to see if someone in Canada can get me one or something I guess.


----------



## psychrage

Just an update on my Arc Midi





Got this done this past weekend, however, I just stuffed two 6970's in there, no water on those yet however. And I mounted 2 more YL's on the bottom of the top radiator for push/pull.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm kicking myself for not grabbing a Define Mini when it was a Shellshocker deal last week... I have to wait until Z77 hits, but I hate to miss a sale on something I want... Especially when it's a $40 difference


----------



## golfergolfer

Just throwing in another plug here for ekg... absolutely amazing...







Looks really good and and... i am speechless! everytime your work always impresses me


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage*
> 
> Just an update on my Arc Midi
> Got this done this past weekend, however, I just stuffed two 6970's in there, no water on those yet however. And I mounted 2 more YL's on the bottom of the top radiator for push/pull.


How's the noise level with a bay res/pump compared to d5+ek restop? How are you draining this now?


----------



## psychrage

Can definitely hear the dual ddc's, but it doesn't bother me. I like how compact the ddc is compared to the d5.

As far as draining, I put some paper towels down and very quickly pull a hose off and drain it into a tupperware container.
I don't like the look of drain hoses.

Also, the xspc bay reservoir isn't exactly easy to fill in the arc midi.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> I'm kicking myself for not grabbing a Define Mini when it was a Shellshocker deal last week... I have to wait until Z77 hits, but I hate to miss a sale on something I want... Especially when it's a $40 difference


Don't go with Newegg, I got mine from NCIX (US) for like $85 shipped when they had a free shipping over $50 deal.
Even w/o that though they're cheaper than Newegg IIRC.


----------



## psychrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> took few shots of my new creation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> check it out i'm very pleased with result, came out just how i wanted it



















That is amazing. Doesn't even seem like a Fractal case anymore.


----------



## PriceEddie

I think I'm going to do a similar thing with my Arc Midi, remove the foam stuff from the front panel and replace it with a thin sheet of plastic or even card, with the holes cut out so the fans peer through. It looks very smart I must say.

Eddie.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Don't go with Newegg, I got mine from NCIX (US) for like $85 shipped when they had a free shipping over $50 deal.
> Even w/o that though they're cheaper than Newegg IIRC.


It's backordered







I wish Amazon carried them.


----------



## 161029

@ekg: have you ever thought of trying to fit a 3rd fan on the front? That would look so nice.


----------



## Angrybutcher

One thing I noticed that was odd on my Arc Midi, even though the bottom HDD cage is riveted in, it appears to have pre-drilled screw holes as well in both the case and the cage! Why didn't they just screw it??


----------



## 161029

I feel like I have a problem because I'm starting to get bored with the Arc and Core cases. Isn't it time Fractal threw out something new?

*crosses fingers, hoping that I won't get flamed*

It would be pretty awesome to see them release another butt kicking case.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> One thing I noticed that was odd on my Arc Midi, even though the bottom HDD cage is riveted in, it appears to have pre-drilled screw holes as well in both the case and the cage! Why didn't they just screw it??


Well if you really wanted to, with short enough machine screws the right diameter, you could remove all the rivets and screw the case together, rivets just tend to hold a lot better over time. They also take a lot less time to install once you've done a few.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I feel like I have a problem because I'm starting to get bored with the Arc and Core cases. Isn't it time Fractal threw out something new?
> 
> *crosses fingers, hoping that I won't get flamed*
> 
> It would be pretty awesome to see them release another butt kicking case.


Have you not been looking at our Fractal Case Mods, they are super easy to make your own and make unique


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Well if you really wanted to, with short enough machine screws the right diameter, you could remove all the rivets and screw the case together, rivets just tend to hold a lot better over time. They also take a lot less time to install once you've done a few.
> Have you not been looking at our Fractal Case Mods, they are super easy to make your own and make unique


I have but I've seen them so many times.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Well if you really wanted to, with short enough machine screws the right diameter, you could remove all the rivets and screw the case together, rivets just tend to hold a lot better over time. They also take a lot less time to install once you've done a few.


I will be drilling out the rivets and sliding the cage over if needed. I'll be joining the club of those who have a vertical radiator in the front


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Well if you really wanted to, with short enough machine screws the right diameter, you could remove all the rivets and screw the case together, rivets just tend to hold a lot better over time. They also take a lot less time to install once you've done a few.
> 
> 
> 
> I will be drilling out the rivets and sliding the cage over if needed. I'll be joining the club of those who have a vertical radiator in the front
Click to expand...

I have a vertical RAD in my 1000, although it's only a 120 mm from the Coolit Eco lol.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> ! Why didn't they just screw it??


I agree 100%. Thankfully, rivets are so easily drilled out.

What's this talk about being bored ? Fractal needs new stuff ? Holy-Moley, the
entire line of cases themselves are new to the industry. It's not like thev'e had a
presence of even 2 years yet. The products are still "new"

Their current line-up has enough versitility to easily sustain 2-3 more years with
no additions. When you're mfg'ing a great product at a substantial discounted
price........I'd prefer a quality product with a known history of positive performance


----------



## a11an

Here is my Arc Midi.


----------



## psychrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Here is my Arc Midi.


Nicely done. No room for anything of use in the 5 1/4" bays?


----------



## a11an

There is 70 mm space between the rad and bay cover. I need to fix the tubing between rad and gpu. It's a bit too long and has a wierd angle. Will do it when I get a controller and a watertemp sensor.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Here is my Arc Midi.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What's that tube, Masterkleer? If that's the case, how transparent is it?


----------



## a11an

Yes it's Masterkleer 16/10 mm 3,3m retail package. It's not very transparent. Can see some bubbles but can't see completely through it. I really need to fix the tubing between gpu and rad. It's a bit too long and sagging down my gpu. I'll replace it when I get a controller and watertemp sensor.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Yes it's Masterkleer 16/10 mm 3,3m retail package. It's not very transparent. Can see some bubbles but can't see completely through it. I really need to fix the tubing between gpu and rad. It's a bit too long and sagging down my gpu. I'll replace it when I get a controller and watertemp sensor.


I was thinking of the same orange masterkleer and run red dye, that's why I was interested







Cheers m8.


----------



## lurker2501

Just built it yesterday. Any suggestions?


fractal design arc by fakehipster, on Flickr

fractal design arc by fakehipster, on Flickr


----------



## 161029

Clean up the wires please.


----------



## lurker2501

final variant


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Just built it yesterday. Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fractal design arc by fakehipster, on Flickr
> 
> fractal design arc by fakehipster, on Flickr


Send it to me







jk









After the final variant it looks really nice


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> final variant


Good job. Now remove the top HDD cage for more airflow.







MAke the top fans intake (I don't know if their in exhaust or intake mode right now) and remove all the PCIe brackets.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Good job. Now remove the top HDD cage for more airflow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MAke the top fans intake (I don't know if their in exhaust or intake mode right now) and remove all the PCIe brackets.


Is there really a point in doing so if I'm not gonna be using the side panel anyway? The fans are on exhaust. I'm thinking of adding one fan to the radiator to make it a push-pull system.


----------



## ChesterCat

You're not intending to mount the side panel at all ? Or not using a fan in side panel ?

And i'd have the 2 front 120's -- IN
And the top 2 120's -- OUT

Lokkin good , BTW


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Is there really a point in doing so if I'm not gonna be using the side panel anyway? The fans are on exhaust. I'm thinking of adding one fan to the radiator to make it a push-pull system.


Why no side panel? Just curious.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Is there really a point in doing so if I'm not gonna be using the side panel anyway? The fans are on exhaust. I'm thinking of adding one fan to the radiator to make it a push-pull system.
> 
> 
> 
> Why no side panel? Just curious.
Click to expand...

Cheap window?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Cheap window?


I just don't like boxed cases. Actually i need only the chassis skeleton from this rig to hold my system and when i get a more powerful water-cooling kit say with a triple slot radiator and a reservoir I will strip this case from front and top panels as well. I want something like this:


----------



## ChesterCat




----------



## lurker2501

Decided to add a NZXT Sleeved LED Cable Set. I think it's gonna look great on that chassis.


----------



## goodtobeking

Got a R3 the other day. Going to swap out my heavily modded Antec 300 for this bad boy on my secondary rig. Looks great and I love the front door on it. I bet it is quiet as can be with air cooling. Going to see if It can dampen the Ultra Kaze 3k thats going in it.

Can someone point me to some nice R3 mods?? My ISP is giving me hell and taking forever to load pages.


----------



## bobwas4

it should i have just done exactly the same transfered all my stuff from my modded Lian-Li pc-a05nb and have nothing but deltas in it (they are controlled) but are more quiet than they ever were in the ao5.







top case, i gotta say im very envious of some of the cases in here. nice work people


----------



## mablo

Hi guys. Can I join the club too?


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Only if you clean up your cables








Cos leaving the case in that mess is a tarnish to the Fractal Case name.


----------



## cgull

ahhh be nice








but really mablo you should tidy up.. use some cable ties, and those big, beautiful grommeted cable management holes .. get those fat modular power supply cables behind the mobo
it'll look a lot better and more importantly improve airflow..

Good choice on a great case


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Maybe I was a little harsh









But you can definitely do better without a doubt. I have the same case, look at my Silence build. I know because I own that case. And I have done my cables to be extremely neat and tidy.







And with much more hardware tbh.


----------



## Kimir

Yeah, a little of cable management doesn't hurt








Here is my bro new rig:


----------



## csm725

Well not all of us have modular PSUs


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Well not all of us have modular PSUs


That's just an excuse







There's plenty of room to hide your cables in a free 5.25" bay or just simply behind the mobo tray


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Well not all of us have modular PSUs


Worst excuse I've heard. Unacceptable csm.


----------



## csm725

So many spare Molexes!


----------



## lurker2501

was bored and made a short slideshow. lame, but i like it.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yeah, a little of cable management doesn't hurt


very clean, my backplate is a total mess, you can see it in the video.


----------



## g33k88

Hey guys and gals, new here but here's my new build. Coming from a 700D and I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out.


----------



## axipher

I might have a juicy update tomorrow for you all of my Design core completely painted White.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Yes...unused grommet holes are sad grommet holes.









Your case dwarfs my mATX fractal and I have more hard drives:



So it is possible to clean it up a bit.









Of course, my fan controller wiring sucks a bit...so perhaps I shouldn't be throwing stones.


----------



## elzhi

I was bored today so i decided to tidy up the cables, i'm pretty happy with how it looks, but the back of the case is rather messy...


----------



## adi518

guys, how hard would it be painting gpu bracket to the same white tone of fractal? I'm currently debating with myself on how to accomplish that.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> guys, how hard would it be painting gpu bracket to the same white tone of fractal? I'm currently debating with myself on how to accomplish that.


I have been thinking about that as well- It really couldn't be that hard. The most difficult part of that would just be getting the bracket off of the card itself then just spraying them down. I will probably do that down the line sometime. Go for it


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> guys, how hard would it be painting gpu bracket to the same white tone of fractal? I'm currently debating with myself on how to accomplish that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> guys, how hard would it be painting gpu bracket to the same white tone of fractal? I'm currently debating with myself on how to accomplish that.
> 
> 
> 
> I have been thinking about that as well- It really couldn't be that hard. The most difficult part of that would just be getting the bracket off of the card itself then just spraying them down. I will probably do that down the line sometime. Go for it
Click to expand...

It's not hard to paint it, just hard to find the right color. I did mine, you can look through my pictures. If you just want the GPU bracket to match the PCI covers, just paint them all the same white.


----------



## sethmo

My wip. Need to painful or get new ram heat spreaders.


----------



## axipher

Semi update to my painting, more to come









http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000/50_50#post_16508324


----------



## LiljHoN05

Hello Fractal Design Case Club!

i Would Like to Share my Fractal Design Arc Midi BF3 Mods Inspired by: Bill Owen







more here:

http://s1121.photobucket.com/albums/l516/WestSideCaseModz/Fractal Design Arc Midi on BF3 Mods/


----------



## LiljHoN05

More Here:

http://s1121.photobucket.com/albums/l516/WestSideCaseModz/Fractal Design Arc Midi on BF3 Mods/


----------



## DavidTiger

Hey Joining the club, Just bought and swapped over to a Fractal Arc Midi and fitted H100 P/P with Arctic F12 fans








Will be looking into sticking the cover plate onto the disk drive to hide it, will look a lot cleaner that way










Spent a bit of tie doing some cable management, Best I've had my cases looking yet


----------



## axipher

White Design Core 1000 anyone?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000/0_50


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiljHoN05*
> 
> Hello Fractal Design Case Club!
> i Would Like to Share my Fractal Design Arc Midi BF3 Mods Inspired by: Bill Owen


Absolutely beautiful job. Personally, I would have gone a tad darker with the camo (like Bill's), but no argument, that's a work of art.







I wasn't a huge fan of the bullet hole's in Bill's side window, so props to you for keeping it clean. That said, the recessed handles on the top of Bill's looked awesome...so perhaps on a rainy day...


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiljHoN05*


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> White Design Core 1000 anyone?


I have seen a lot of your work to date and it looks impressive, but I tend to favor the black myself. I have also been very impressed with how scratch resistant the black paint is on the latest FDs...and I would be a bit concerned about how well new paint would stand up over time...especially on the the smaller pieces and contact points. Are you doing anything special to prepare the surface and cure the paint?

BTW, you seem to have painted all of your grass white too.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Still a work in progress, but here's the latest for my Arc Midi


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Still a work in progress, but here's the latest for my Arc Midi


The 240 looks so small. Like you said, wish the EX140 radiators were out.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Maybe when they come out, I can resell my RS240, move the EX240 to the top and put an EX280 in the front


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Maybe when they come out, I can resell my RS240, move the EX240 to the top and put an EX280 in the front


That would be awesome. Do it. Also can't wait for Martin's (over at martinsliquidlab.org) compilation of radiator tests. I think he said he was asked to compare the RS, RX, and EX radiators with eachother. Can't wait for that.


----------



## Angrybutcher

He released results of the RS360, RX360 and EX360 compared to other brands. As long as they didn't drastically change design, that should translate to the other 120mm sizes. That's what I used to determine getting the EX240. I picked up the RS240 due to it being less than $40


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> He released results of the RS360, RX360 and EX360 compared to other brands. As long as they didn't drastically change design, that should translate to the other 120mm sizes. That's what I used to determine getting the EX240. I picked up the RS240 due to it being less than $40


He did? When was this? It's not on the site.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Ahh, it was Bundy! Found the post


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Ahh, it was Bundy! Found the post


Great! Looks like RX is the way to go.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angrybutcher*
> 
> Still a work in progress, but here's the latest for my Arc Midi


VERY nice! I am not a WCer, but wow, very clean..and almost tempting. Almost.









Do you plan on relocating one of the drive cages between the rad and the PSU...or are you going to drop one or more into the 5.25 bays? I love the FD's drive mounting system...and it has come in handy given that I have swapped drives out in my latest build three times in as many weeks.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Do you plan on relocating one of the drive cages between the rad and the PSU...or are you going to drop one or more into the 5.25 bays? I.


Too often overlooked......but plenty ample room, mounting 51/4 HD underneath naked cage.
Simple mod, with virtually no blockage of upper fan


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Too often overlooked......but plenty ample room, mounting 51/4 HD underneath naked cage.
> Simple mod, with virtually no blockage of upper fan


My first thought was this, especially with a 240mm radiator. I could also use a horizontal drive cage next to the power supply, helping to hide the hideous cables that Silverstone provided with the "PLATINUM" psu. You'd think they would do better in the looks department for such a "high end" unit. Problem with this config, is my pump has the Swiftech heatsink/fan combo mounted below it, making it fairly tall and tubing would need to also go through the drive cage. We'll see.


----------



## goodtobeking

Butcher, what about putting this bad boy up there?? Ikrin's 280 Airplex radiator?? Get that and some 140 Akasa Viper fans, and it would be even more of a beast. Plus you would be helping an OCNer.


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Butcher, what about putting this bad boy up there?? Ikrin's 280 Airplex radiator?? Get that and some 140 Akasa Viper fans, and it would be even more of a beast. Plus you would be helping an OCNer.


While that is a nice radiator, it's a bit out of my "budget", if you can call it that lol


----------



## goodtobeking

Lol oh, didnt realized it was for the Budget BOINCer. Finally going to start swapping parts over for my secondary rig in my R3. Looking some of the pics though, I wish I would of got the XL


----------



## a11an

Arctic F8 2000RPM fan added to mosfets


----------



## AbdullahG

Hello everyone!
Great looking builds here!
I may be joining this club this week or next week with a Core 1000 to upgrade the case of a budget gaming rig.
Quick question: how are the Fractal Design 120mm fans?
I'm considering replacing the OEM Corsair fans on the H80 with the FD 120mm fans.
Will that be an up-, down-, or sidegrade?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> Great looking builds here!
> I may be joining this club this week or next week with a Core 1000 to upgrade the case of a budget gaming rig.
> Quick question: how are the Fractal Design 120mm fans?
> I'm considering replacing the OEM Corsair fans on the H80 with the FD 120mm fans.
> Will that be an up-, down-, or sidegrade?


The stock fan on the Design Core 1000 is top quality build wise. I have one and I kept it on my case as a side fan. It's super quiet, but still moves a fair bit of air as a side fan.

I wouldn't rely on it as your only intake fan though. On the side it works perfect as a fresh air supply for your graphics card.

Take a look at my Design Core 1000 Build Log in my sig.


----------



## Nambo

Add me to the club
Fractal Arc Midi!! The lighting is NZXT led strip and logysis white cold cathode at the bottom in case anyones wondering
I need to clean the sidewindow and touch up the side panel
Waiting on nzxt white mobo pin extension


----------



## tianh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Arctic F8 2000RPM fan added to mosfets


please add some more pictures!!!


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> please add some more pictures!!!


I concur, more pictures please!


----------



## hstanford1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I concur, more pictures please!


This! Wanna see how that 360 got stuff in there


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I concur, more pictures please!


I agree- you can only go through 160 pages so many times. I love looking at FD cases. I plan to add mine soon, once I get my new PSU from RMA. Not quite photo worthy yet


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> I agree- you can only go through 160 pages so many times. I love looking at FD cases. I plan to add mine soon, once I get my new PSU from RMA. Not quite photo worthy yet


As soon as I get my tax return I'll be getting the Arc Midi. Hopefully in the next month or so!


----------



## tianh

Is the Arc Midi suitable to easily water cool a CPU and GPU having the interior look nice, and not modifying it at all?


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Is the Arc Midi suitable to easily water cool a CPU and GPU having the interior look nice, and not modifying it at all?


You can fit a 240 + 120/140 rad without any modifications. That should be enough for cpu+gpu. If you have a AMD cpu and midrange GPU then a single 240 rad will work but it will limit your overclocking.


----------



## drka0tic

Hey guys... I'm looking into moving my components into an Arc Midi.
I have the RASA 750 RS240 kit and from looking at all these builds it looks like I will will have to get a new pump/reservoir setup if I want to keep my DVD drive + fan controller.

Is that my only option? If so, what do you recommend for a reservoir?


----------



## Angrybutcher

It's alive! More in my BOINCer build log


----------



## solsamurai

Nice!


----------



## a11an

Moar pictures. Sorry can't make better pics.

specs

rad: Alphacool 360 XT45 full copper.
res: Magicool 150 mm with 2x Alphacool 50mm res holder.
pump: Phobya DC12-260
tubing: Masterkleer 16/10 UV orange

I used the 240rad mounting holes.


Lazy reservoir mounting.


Behind the hdd cage is 70x100x150mm room for pump.



360 rad still left room for a fan controller.


Peace!


----------



## peterbazooka

Thought I may as well join the club. I built this computer in February of last year and moved it all over to a define mini in August when they finally arrived at newegg. I actually found overclock.net when I was researching a quieter case. Its nothing special but it plays all the games I want and runs cool and quiet. Complete specs are in sig.





Cable management is a mess mostly because my pci express power cords are not quite long enough to route behind the motherboard. I do not really care since I do not have a side window and the computer sits under a desk out of sight. There is a little dust inside from when I experimented running a side intake but since it did not change temps I removed it.

I love this case, my cpu idles around 30*C and my gpu idles around 35*C. With the fans running at the slowest speed I barely hear anything and even running all fans including the cpu and gpu it sounds more like a ceiling fan than hair dryer. I also like that it does not look like a toy, nothing says nerd like flashing lights in the bedroom









I do wish there was a little more space behind the motherboard as cable management was tough.
After about a month one of my fractal intake fans starting making a terrible noise so I replaced it with a cooler master 120mm fan, not sure why it died so soon...
I also wish the front intake fan grilles would slide out for easier cleaning and I'm sure if they tried, running 2 140mm's fan would fit up front.

I would like any suggestions for any improvements/upgrades not just for the case but my entire build. I just tried out a 6970 I got from a newegg open box deal but I couldn't take the extra noise now that I have been spoiled. I also thought of buying a corsair h100 and mounting it up front and bumping my cpu clock up a little more (at 4.2 right now, it gets hot a full load but during games never really tops 60*C) but I want to hear one in person before I spend $120. Also I would really like to support my gpu as it sags right now but I don't know what to add that wouldn't take up much space.

I'm loving overclock.net keep up the good work


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

For all you people looking for new Fractal Design case fans, I found some browsing NCIX earlier. Both 120mm and 140mm, quite cheap too! It was only a matter of time before supplies started selling them.

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=51283&vpn=FD-FAN-120&manufacture=Fractal%20Design

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=51284&vpn=FD-FAN-140&manufacture=Fractal%20Design


----------



## Mysticode

Looks exactly like Arctic's fans!







http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/case-fans/77/arctic-f.html?c=2183


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Looks exactly like Arctic's fans!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/case-fans/77/arctic-f.html?c=2183


Somebody's gotta be making them for Fractal ......."Private Label". Very well could be Arctic

Same as their cases.......they've got someone manufacturing private labeled "in-house" designed cases
under the Fractal name. Hopefully, they'll continue to grow, Which would allow them to manufacture
independently, and the retail price will go down easily 20-30%. Before that could ever happen, the
Fractal product line would have to add many new SKU's to be self-supportive.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Looking to put a window in my Arc Midi and I'd like some advice please. I've got everything I think I'll need to do it (jigsaw, metal blades, acrylic etc) but I'm not sure which trim to get. I've looked at this: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Neoprene-Rubber-Edging-Trim-pid-9645.html and it looks like what I need but is it? If it isn't then can someone please link me to a UK site that sells them please. Thanks


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> For all you people looking for new Fractal Design case fans, I found some browsing NCIX earlier. Both 120mm and 140mm, quite cheap too! It was only a matter of time before supplies started selling them.
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=51283&vpn=FD-FAN-120&manufacture=Fractal%20Design
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=51284&vpn=FD-FAN-140&manufacture=Fractal%20Design


To me, it seems like these fans aren't very good quality and they make quite a lot of noise... its a shame because Fractal cases are real good.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

I use the included fan controller...and can dial them down enough to make them essentially silent.


----------



## csm725

Does anyone know if an NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller fits behind the R3 USB3's front door?
Thanks


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Does anyone know if an NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller fits behind the R3 USB3's front door?
> Thanks


While I don't have the case (but do have a Sentry Mesh), I don't see why they wouldn't. The control dials only stick out a few mm


----------



## csm725

I have the Mesh, but I like confirming things lol, thanks Dino








Now the epic dilemma, R3 v Arc Midi...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I had an NZXT Sentry Mix (sticks out further than a Mesh, I think) installed in my R3 when I had it and it was perfect. As for the R3 vs Arc Midi dilemma, I chose to get an Arc because it had more space behind the mobo, wider than the R3 and better water cooling capabilities without modding. I did love the quietness of the R3 though.


----------



## peterbazooka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Does anyone know if an NZXT Sentry Mesh fan controller fits behind the R3 USB3's front door?
> Thanks


I have the NZXT Sentry Mesh controller mounted in my define mini and it fits perfectly, so it should work in the full size case as well. i actually posted a picture of it a few posts back.


----------



## csm725

Awesome, cheers.


----------



## bjonbjonbjon

Hey guys, i am planning to get a fractal core 1000 case. Was wondering if I could fit a corsair h70 cooler inside. I noticed that the back panel is a 92mm cut. Was thinking if I could stretch it to the front 120mm fan. I'll be using a gtx 580 card, along with a asus maximus gene IV mobo. Thanks in advance.


----------



## csm725

I really think I'd rather the R3... anyone know how airflow is with just front and side fans (so with top fans blocked off)?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Is what they say about the 8 pin CPU power connector not being able to be routed through the hole on the top of the Define R3 Mid true?
> Is there enough room behind the mobo tray in the R3, and is it really THAT bad cable mgmt wise?


Lolwut?
8pin went smoothly through when I had R3, arent you confusing R3 with the define xl which is so big that peeps need extensions for the cpu power cable to be able to route it properly?

And the cable management was a breeze too, had enough room behind the tray to route the cables well.


----------



## csm725

Lolwut?
I'm just asking questions that were brought up on Newegg, etc...
So if there aren't any other obvious downsides, I wonder, how would airflow be if I kept the two top fan openings shut and had two front 120s, one side 140, and a D14 blowing air out the back? A bit choked?


----------



## adi518

R3 has much better looks with it's door panel but no modular hdd cage. I think Arc has slightly more room for cables behind the motherboard tray and can take 140mm up front whereas R3 can only take 120mm.

I say R3.


----------



## adi518

Something is wrong with the forum I can't edit my posts.


----------



## Blizlake

I assume you're talking about your sigrig. I'd say it'd be ok, I had 2 6950 twin frozr cards in it with 2 front intakes, frontmost top intake and rear exhaust with p/p on heatsink and my temps were fine, mid-70's on cards and mid-60's cpu on load. I had switched all the fans to 1150rpm GT's running @7v though, wouldnt use the stock fans even as shrouds.


----------



## csm725

Yeah the sigrig, cheers Bliz.
Yeah edits are broken right now... :/


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjonbjonbjon*
> 
> Hey guys, i am planning to get a fractal core 1000 case. Was wondering if I could fit a corsair h70 cooler inside. I noticed that the back panel is a 92mm cut. Was thinking if I could stretch it to the front 120mm fan. I'll be using a gtx 580 card, along with a asus maximus gene IV mobo. Thanks in advance.


Yes, it will fit. The H70 is about the same size as my Coolit Eco which fits perfectly fine in the front 120 mm slot on the Design core 1000.


----------



## csm725

Axipher can you hop on IRC for a sec?


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I wonder, how would airflow be if I kept the two top fan openings shut and had two front 120s, one side 140, and a D14 blowing air out the back?


Don't ignore the best exhaust point = the top panel

Hot air naturally rises, therefore top mounted fans are extremely
efficient at exhausting air. Expecting to perform this laterally is
never gonna be as effective.


----------



## grassh0ppa

how good are the 140mm case fans? Are they quite and good enough at keeping the system cool?

I'm living in the upstairs room of an apartment and I've heard it gets hot in the summer (Ontario, canada)


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Don't ignore the best exhaust point = the top panel
> Hot air naturally rises, therefore top mounted fans are extremely
> efficient at exhausting air. Expecting to perform this laterally is
> never gonna be as effective.


You do know how small natural convection is, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*
> 
> how good are the 140mm case fans? Are they quite and good enough at keeping the system cool?
> I'm living in the upstairs room of an apartment and I've heard it gets hot in the summer (Ontario, canada)


The ones on Arc midi were Ok. Weren't anything fabulous though. They'll keep a rig at decent temps, but they arent very silent imho.


----------



## csm725

I'll be getting two FD Silent Series 140mm since they're only 9dBa...


----------



## mablo

I promise to cleanup the cable mess when I'll be a little less lazy







. And you were not harsh, just realistic. I can take constructive criticism.

Since the cables are so stiff to bend and route around, I'm always afraid of breaking something when inserting them. Must learn more about cable management I guess.
Quote:


> Good choice on a great case


Excellent case indeed. Nice and quiet just the way I intended.

Thanks for the example Kimir.


----------



## Stompy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*
> 
> how good are the 140mm case fans? Are they quite and good enough at keeping the system cool?
> I'm living in the upstairs room of an apartment and I've heard it gets hot in the summer (Ontario, canada)


The fans that come with the fractal cases are ok-ish but not great quality. They are quiet but don't move much air considering their speed. Mine had a bit of a wobble too, so i don't expect them to last indefinitely. Replaced them with noiseblocker blacksilent fans which are still very quiet but move a bit more air and last forever.

To be honest, pretty much all fans that come pre-installed with cases are not good. The only really good ones that i know of are the air penetrators in silverstone cases and the slipstreams in scythe cases. Even many expensive cases from Lian Li or Corsair only have rubbish/mediocre fans installed.

[Edit:] @Blizlake: I'm suprised you consider the fans loud. I compared the 120mm version to a scythe S-Flex of similar rpm and the fractal fan was quieter but moved less air. Even compared to the noiseblocker fans, which are universally considered to be very quiet, the fractal fans didn't stand out negatively. I think they sacrificed airflow for noise reduction, so you have to crank the fractal fans up to high speeds for decent airflow.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stompy*
> 
> To be honest, pretty much all fans that come pre-installed with cases are not good. The only really good ones that i know of are the air penetrators in silverstone cases and the slipstreams in scythe cases. Even many expensive cases from Lian Li or Corsair only have rubbish/mediocre fans installed.
> 
> [Edit:] @Blizlake: I'm suprised you consider the fans loud. I compared the 120mm version to a scythe S-Flex of similar rpm and the fractal fan was quieter but moved less air. Even compared to the noiseblocker fans, which are universally considered to be very quiet, the fractal fans didn't stand out negatively. I think they sacrificed airflow for noise reduction, so you have to crank the fractal fans up to high speeds for decent airflow.


lol looks like the edit-system is still fubar, your edit doesnt show up on your post but it does when I quote you.
And I must agree that most fans that come in cases are crap, the aforementioned air penetrators are good and so are the fans Bitfenix has in their cases as those are the fans they sell separately.

And what I meant was that the noise is high compared to the airflow and the sound is annoying when compared to other fans from akasa, scythe and bitfenix for example. I think my gpu temps dropped like 5 degrees when I switched the two front fractal fans @12v to AP-13's @7v on my old R3, but it was still dead quiet.


----------



## a11an

I run my fractal 140mm fans ~ @ 7v. Too noisy at full speed.


----------



## csm725

And they're good at 7V?


----------



## Stompy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> And what I meant was that the noise is high compared to the airflow and the sound is annoying when compared to other fans from akasa, scythe and bitfenix for example. I think my gpu temps dropped like 5 degrees when I switched the two front fractal fans @12v to AP-13's @7v on my old R3, but it was still dead quiet.


True, when running at max speed the fractal fans are not quiet. But they are less noisy then a lot of fans at a given speed. The airflow to noise ratio is not great, though.
Admittedly, i hardly ever run fans at more then 1000rpm, and my Noiseblockers dont go any higher then that, so i couldn't do a comparison at higher rpm.

So in general, i would say the fractals are worth keeping if you run them at <1000rpm and don't need very high airflow for hot hardware.


----------



## tats

Anyone with an R3 and some good cable management want to put up a pick of the back of their MB tray? I rushed my build together when I first swapped cases and would like to really do it right this time. Looking for something to shoot for.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tats*
> 
> Anyone with an R3 and some good cable management want to put up a pick of the back of their MB tray? I rushed my build together when I first swapped cases and would like to really do it right this time. Looking for something to shoot for.


This is how I done mine:


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> This is how I done mine:


wow - show off









I think I have my work cut out for me.


----------



## adi518

I reckoned it'd give you plenty of inspiration.







I took the ideas from other people in here.


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I reckoned it'd give you plenty of inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the ideas from other people in here.


I want to see how good a job I can do without sleeving, so thanks for setting the bar high


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I reckoned it'd give you plenty of inspiration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took the ideas from other people in here.


Hey... Israel!
No way


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tats*
> 
> I want to see how good a job I can do without sleeving, so thanks for setting the bar high


Frankly, I had a harder time with sleeved cables. The 24 pin cable that came with my AX750 PSU is sleeved...and it is as fat as my finger. The PCI and 8pin MB cables are a bit smaller, but also have a fairly hefty sleeved diameter. I'm not sure how they would have fit in a Define with the acoustic foam insulation. They were fairly tight in my Arc...even with a fairly careful layout. Individually sleeved cables will lay flatter.

BTW adi518, that is one beautiful job. It almost warrants a window on that side of the case.


----------



## adi518

Individually sleeved cables is the best, they just flatten so easy. I initially measured 56cm (inc. molex connectors) needed in length for the 24 pin but could only get a 64cm length cable and I still managed pretty good because they're so easy to bend, shape and flatten around.


----------



## Stompy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Frankly, I had a harder time with sleeved cables. The 24 pin cable that came with my AX750 PSU is sleeved...and it is as fat as my finger. The PCI and 8pin MB cables are a bit smaller, but also have a fairly hefty sleeved diameter. I'm not sure how they would have fit in a Define with the acoustic foam insulation. They were fairly tight in my Arc...even with a fairly careful layout. Individually sleeved cables will lay flatter.
> BTW adi518, that is one beautiful job. It almost warrants a window on that side of the case.


I'm a bit suprised by that. The R3 was the first case where i actually tried to do decent cable management and it worked no problem on the first try. Even with the thick mono-sleeve cables from my non-modular bequiet PSU. No space issues behind the mobo tray, no trouble getting the side panel on, no issues at all.
The only annoying part was that the location of the 8-pin is right in the centre of the mainboard, so i couldn't bring the cable in from the top without an extension. Since the board will be replaced within a few months, i brought the cable in from the side.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stompy*
> 
> I'm a bit suprised by that. The R3 was the first case where i actually tried to do decent cable management and it worked no problem on the first try. Even with the thick mono-sleeve cables from my non-modular bequiet PSU. No space issues behind the mobo tray, no trouble getting the side panel on, no issues at all.
> The only annoying part was that the location of the 8-pin is right in the centre of the mainboard, so i couldn't bring the cable in from the top without an extension. Since the board will be replaced within a few months, i brought the cable in from the side.


Well, factor in that I may not be the cabling master.









That said, I had to ensure that no cable crossed the 24 pin to get the side to close without applying undue pressure. The positive side is that you can't see what I did. From, the front, it looks clean.











(except for the fan controller mess at the bottom left)


----------



## Stompy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Well, factor in that I may not be the cabling master.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, I had to ensure that no cable crossed the 24 pin to get the side to close without applying undue pressure. The positive side is that you can't see what I did. From, the front, it looks clean.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (except for the fan controller mess at the bottom left)


That does look really nice.







Looks better then mine at the moment.







And indeed, not crossing anything thick with the 24 pin is the key. Plus lots and lots of zipties. I also got a few of those zip-tie mounting points with adhesive backs so i could tie down cables at any point on the backplate.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> (except for the fan controller mess at the bottom left)


Bout as nice as any i've seen. If you were working towards "no see"........ya won, big time

and I hardly even noticed the fans wires


----------



## adi518

I plan to sleeve mine up and maybe use some extensions on it, until then tho, it's out the case.









I also took out the fan + filter mount near the psu. I wish Fractal made the filter below the psu extend over to where the fan mount was (thus, removing the filter from the mount and having the fan sitting slightly lower) instead of leaving it open. They also didn't accurately make the plastic filter part that slides under, would much preferred if it was metal made. Funny thing I also noticed is that in the winter cold air the case alloy shrinks a tiny bit so it's harder to slide the filter in. Other than tho, no real issues with the R3, it's a magnificent case.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Bout as nice as any i've seen. If you were working towards "no see"........ya won, big time
> and I hardly even noticed the fans wires


Thanks!

I wired it up and tried to close the side...and then realized that I wasn't even close







...so I disconnected everything and started all over again.

The fan controller wiring is lame, but I will say that I like having it. It lets me dial down my fans to the point that they still move a decent amount of air but are hardly noticeable, which is saying something in an Arc...with all the mesh. I actually like that the knob sticks out the back...since I don't really mess with it...and don't want to have to see it.

I really wanted the Define Mini since I hear that it is VERY quiet...and I liked the idea of stealthing the 5.25" bays. It also looks really sharp...but ended up going with the Arc since I heard that the acoustic foam in the Define cut down room behind the MB tray and takes 5mm off the supported height for tower coolers. I probably could have gotten it to work, but a man also has to know his limits...and I know mine. I am not the cabling master. I need a case that leaves room for a bit of error.









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> I will say that I like having it. It lets me dial down my fans to the point that they still move a decent amount of air but are hardly noticeable












I've had controllers in the last 3-4 personal builds of mine. Won't even consider going back to
software solutions and messin' with fan headers. Luv'um
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> I really wanted the Define Mini since I hear that it is VERY quiet...












I've never owned a quieter one. I've had the Sonata's-P180's-P190's with their sound deadening design.
For a lot less money, Fractal's quieter and quality's on par with some of the most expensive.
Early 90's was the full tower.....then the Mid's kinda took over. For me, the Mini's mATX size and
super clean exterior can't be beat.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*


That SSD ruins your color scheme.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> That SSD ruins your color scheme.


Guess the only solution for him is to buy a new one









Pretty clean rig ChesterCat, few loose cables on the floor?


----------



## m3cha

Hey....long time browser, first time poster. Could I possibly join the club?



Tried my best at cable management... pretty hard to get it all in (that's what she said) lol


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3cha*
> 
> Hey....long time browser, first time poster. Could I possibly join the club?


Looks awesome man, great job.


----------



## adridu59

Here's my Core 3000 :





Cable management was a pain but it made me more satisfied once I was done.









I also removed the upper drive cage's fittings.


----------



## tats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3cha*
> 
> Hey....long time browser, first time poster. Could I possibly join the club?
> 
> Tried my best at cable management... pretty hard to get it all in (that's what she said) lol


That put mine to shame, I started messing with it last night and gave up, i hate cable management. I want to find a cable management consultant to come clean my rig up


----------



## lurker2501

don't really see the point in cable management and modular psus if the side panel is on. same goes for water-cooling if you don't overclock. although i did my cables well when i was building because it was just interesting to me if i could do it clean, and because my lid is open. otherwise i could care less.


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> don't really see the point in cable management and modular psus if the side panel is on. same goes for water-cooling if you don't overclock. although i did my cables well when i was building because it was just interesting to me if i could do it clean, and because my lid is open. otherwise i could care less.


Airflow


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> don't really see the point in cable management and modular psus if the side panel is on. same goes for water-cooling if you don't overclock. although i did my cables well when i was building because it was just interesting to me if i could do it clean, and because my lid is open. otherwise i could care less.
> 
> 
> 
> Airflow
Click to expand...

Dust.
Messy cables + Dust = PITA to clean


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Airflow


well that pretty much depends on the case structure, number of fans installed and their quality obviously, and even if you gain somehow a couple of degrees from the cable clutter which i highly doubt it's not that you gonna burn any of the components anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Dust.
> Messy cables + Dust = PITA to clean


vacuum cleaner


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Dust.
> Messy cables + Dust = PITA to clean
> 
> 
> 
> vacuum cleaner
Click to expand...

lol yeah, good luck with that. Been there, seen that. First time I built my rig (in R3) I just slapped everything in it and started it up. I probably spent three times the amount of time cleaning it 2 months later than I had used to put the rig together. Redid my cables, next time it took me 5 mins to blow the dust off as all the cables were clean 'cause they were neatly behind the mobo tray.
But hey, dust and pain-free rigs arent for everyone I guess... I'd just rather spend an extra hour when building the rig to ensure that everything I do to it later will go swiftly.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> That SSD ruins your color scheme.


it's too hard these days working around color schemes. Guess I really value
function over fashion. But, that BLUE does stick out









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Pretty clean rig ChesterCat, few loose cables on the floor?


I know ! And there's only so much room to work with, out back. That's prolly the
only real issue I faced, building my 1st mATX box.

I did tho, create a totally clean path from the two front 120's & the operating temps
verify it worked. Clear unobstructive paths of air, does indeed make a huge improvement.
Again, the function part clearly over-ruled those lil messy parts. I know with a little
moving around, could be improved.......but i'm too dang lazy at this junction.

*GUILT EDIT:

It was raining when I woke up.....therfore, the perfect excuse to delay whatever I
wasn't gonna do anyhow.....and address "the mess"

*


----------



## XFighter899

Im planning to buy a Fractal Arc could anyone tell me if one or two thermalright TY-150 fit on top http://www.thermalright.com/products/index.php?act=data&cat_id=40&id=188

Thanks


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XFighter899*
> 
> Im planning to buy a Fractal Arc could anyone tell me if one or two thermalright TY-150 fit on top http://www.thermalright.com/products/index.php?act=data&cat_id=40&id=188
> Thanks


One would likely fit, though the holes would not line up. I don't know if you could fit two side by side without modification.


----------



## mablo

Inspired by all the neat cases in here and the fact that i didn't get in the club,
I cleaned up all the cables and now it should be a lot neater.

What do you guys think? Any better?


----------



## stevman17

Here is my Fractal Design Define-XL:


----------



## adi518

Looks nice. I hate how dust collects on my hardware.


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Looks nice. I hate how dust collects on my hardware.


Yea, I'll spend 15 minutes cleaning dust, take a picutre, and it looks like its been sitting in a warehouse for years. The drawbacks of a positive pressure setup I suppose.


----------



## Suffokate666

Anyone with a Define Mini and a crossfire/sli capable Mobo know if you would be able to get away with putting 2 HD 7950s in it without having to drill out the bottom HDD cage? I have 2 of the Sapphire HD 7950s (measure in at 265mm according to Sapphires webpage) and Fractal Designs web page states that a ~260mm card would fit in without removing the middle HDD cage... Thats only half a Centimeter space difference. Anyone know if it would work?


----------



## Suffokate666

Anyone with a Define Mini and a crossfire/sli capable Mobo know if you would be able to get away with putting 2 HD 7950s in it without having to drill out the bottom HDD cage? I have 2 of the Sapphire HD 7950s (measure in at 265mm according to Sapphires webpage) and Fractal Designs web page states that a ~260mm card would fit in without removing the middle HDD cage... Thats only half a Centimeter space difference. Anyone know if it would work?


----------



## Suffokate666

Sorry for the double post! Comp at work won't let me edit it


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suffokate666*
> 
> Sorry for the double post! Comp at work won't let me edit it


But now you triple posted









And hopefully someone here can answer your question for you.


----------



## Cheshire

Here my rig, just upgraded from a Core 1000.
Not yet finished, but ready enough to share a pic:


----------



## Suffokate666

Hahaha, I suppose I did triple post, but I just felt compelled to apologize for posting the same thing 2 times.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> lol yeah, good luck with that. Been there, seen that. First time I built my rig (in R3) I just slapped everything in it and started it up. I probably spent three times the amount of time cleaning it 2 months later than I had used to put the rig together. Redid my cables, next time it took me 5 mins to blow the dust off as all the cables were clean 'cause they were neatly behind the mobo tray.
> But hey, dust and pain-free rigs arent for everyone I guess... I'd just rather spend an extra hour when building the rig to ensure that everything I do to it later will go swiftly.


the amount of dust collected by the chassis depends on the room interior. as long as you don't have a cable spider-web inside and a room which hasn't been cleaned for years on, there's no real hustle cleaning the rig.


----------



## csm725

Is good cable management with a nonmodular PSU a possibility in the R3?
Will I have to stuff cables in the HDD bays?


----------



## Suffokate666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheshire*
> 
> Here my rig, just upgraded from a Core 1000.
> Not yet finished, but ready enough to share a pic:


Get a GPU in that thing Cheshire! hahaha, looks good so far though!


----------



## Paranoia

Can I join the club =D ...got my Arc Midi on Saturday from Micro Center and i absolutely love it as my new case (formally the Antec 900) so much space in front and behind the motherboard to hide all my non modular power supply...cleaned it up the best i could...what you guys think


----------



## Otterclock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> don't really see the point in cable management and modular psus if the side panel is on. same goes for water-cooling if you don't overclock. although i did my cables well when i was building because it was just interesting to me if i could do it clean, and because my lid is open. otherwise i could care less.


well I guess ultimately most things only matter as much as you feel they do, especially when it comes to things not directly connected to survival. Really I don't need a case, or could have probably just gotten a $20 one.


----------



## adi518

@Paranoia Pretty nice 10/10.

Got some new merchandise to go in the case soon...


















Also these,

Silicon jack covers, adds a nice look and keeps out the dust. Got more of them to fill in the io shield ports as well.










The most right one is the usb 3 jack so it's a bit bulgier than the other two. nbd though.


----------



## solsamurai

Very nice. Where did you get the extensions and the usb dust covers from?


----------



## Paranoia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> @Paranoia Pretty nice 10/10.
> 
> Thanks Bro...your build is awesome as well...cant wait to see your updates


----------



## adi518

Those aren't extensions, they replace the stock cables.

I got it all from moddiy.com.


----------



## solsamurai

Thanks!


----------



## csm725

Adi do you have the black pearl or the titanium gray?


----------



## subnet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Those aren't extensions, they replace the stock cables.
> I got it all from moddiy.com.


Can you comment on the quality of the sleeving? I can't see any heatshrink from that distance, if this is right then I'm sold.


----------



## adi518

@csm Black Pearl.

Quality of sleeving is kickass and uses no heatshrinks at all. Someone pointed out that its probably same material sold by MDPC.


----------



## csm725

So... should I get the Gray if KSP have it in stock?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Is good cable management with a nonmodular PSU a possibility in the R3?
> Will I have to stuff cables in the HDD bays?


Don't worry about that... see my post, I did a pretty clean cable management within the Core 3000, which is a tad smaller than the R3.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> So... should I get the Gray if KSP have it in stock?


Yes, if they don't have it, get the black one. You will be happy with either like I said in PM.


----------



## csm725

Alright.


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's an update I done to my rig.


----------



## gceclifton

nice and tidy


----------



## csm725

Is there room in the R3's drive bay to do this?
http://www.overclock.net/t/907643/corsair-obsidian-650d-mid-tower/2000_20#post_16441683


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paranoia*
> 
> Can I join the club =D ...got my Arc Midi on Saturday from Micro Center and i absolutely love it as my new case (formally the Antec 900) so much space in front and behind the motherboard to hide all my non modular power supply...cleaned it up the best i could...what you guys think


finally, somebody with a Khuler. Nice and clean. Cheers.


----------



## Paranoia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> finally, somebody with a Khuler. Nice and clean. Cheers.


Thanks Bro







...this case is amazing to hide all the cables there's sooo much room...and the Kuhler I picked up at Micro Center for 50 bucks so i couldn't pass it up


----------



## Okipa

For the Arc Midi, does anyone know if it is possible to fit a thick 120mm rad (or even a thin one) between the PSU, assuming standard 160mm length PSU (e.g. AX850), and the bottom HDD cage? The bottom fan mount can hold a 140mm, so I'm thinking it may be possible.


----------



## Suffokate666

I couldn't tell you off the top of my head.

I'd recommend just sending an e-mail to Fractal Designs and asking! I had a similar question about things fitting in the Define Mini and I just e-mailed them and they replied same day with an answer.

Probably not the quick help you were looking for, but it's all I got!


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Okipa*
> 
> For the Arc Midi, does anyone know if it is possible to fit a thick 120mm rad (or even a thin one) between the PSU, assuming standard 160mm length PSU (e.g. AX850), and the bottom HDD cage? The bottom fan mount can hold a 140mm, so I'm thinking it may be possible.


Depends on the length of PSU and the angular separation between saturn and mars IIRC.


----------



## hellwalker

hi guys, need some help with my gaming rig here









just got a define mini, asus gene-z, I5 2500K @ 4.5Ghz and gigabyte gtx580 soc. i've got noctua d14 on hands now but i realized that i have to put the gtx580 in the second slot. even if i rotate the d14 (place it vertically), i've only got really really close gap between the d14 and the gtx580 backplate. plus i don't really like the d14 to blow warm air to the backplate and i can't use the sidepanel fan to









so i need something that smaller but sufficient to cool my oc'ed I5, 24/7. some friends recommends h80, but to be honest i just prefer old school air cooler







, any suggestion guys?

p.s : will post pics as soon as i get a camera


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellwalker*
> 
> hi guys, need some help with my gaming rig here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got a define mini, asus gene-z, I5 2500K @ 4.5Ghz and gigabyte gtx580 soc. i've got noctua d14 on hands now but i realized that i have to put the gtx580 in the second slot. even if i rotate the d14 (place it vertically), i've only got really really close gap between the d14 and the gtx580 backplate. plus i don't really like the d14 to blow warm air to the backplate and i can't use the sidepanel fan to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i need something that smaller but sufficient to cool my oc'ed I5, 24/7. some friends recommends h80, but to be honest i just prefer old school air cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , any suggestion guys?
> p.s : will post pics as soon as i get a camera


The D14 rocks....but the clips pretty much touch most GPUs on mATX boards...and if you don't have a backplate, you end up having to find an insulator. Noctua actually recommends electrical tape. Yeah, no thanks. That wasn't for me..especially since there are many other decent coolers that are more than adequate for a moderate overclock.

The Define Mini has very limited headspace for a tower-style cooler given the acoustic foam on the left side. Fractal recently changed the advertised supported cooler height from 165mm (the Arc Mini's value) to 160mm to reflect that reduced clearance. That said, folks with coolers in the high 150s (like my Evo 212 at 159mm tall) have stated that the tips of the heatpipes still touch (and leave an impression in) the foam. Thus, 160 mm is absolute max.

Frankly, I think the 212 Plus and EVO are great "bang for your buck" coolers. Noctua also makes a range of well-reviewed smaller coolers.


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Okipa*
> 
> For the Arc Midi, does anyone know if it is possible to fit a thick 120mm rad (or even a thin one) between the PSU, assuming standard 160mm length PSU (e.g. AX850), and the bottom HDD cage? The bottom fan mount can hold a 140mm, so I'm thinking it may be possible.


It will fit.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellwalker*
> 
> so i need something that smaller but sufficient to cool my oc'ed I5, 24/7. some friends recommends h80, but to be honest i just prefer old school air cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , any suggestion guys?


Alpenföhn matterhorn and Coolink Corator DS come to my mind... Think the matterhorn has an equivalent from deepcool, dunno the exact model though. Oh and I've done a small review on it, can be found if you click the "1" on the "Reviews:" under my repcount.


----------



## Stompy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellwalker*
> 
> hi guys, need some help with my gaming rig here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just got a define mini, asus gene-z, I5 2500K @ 4.5Ghz and gigabyte gtx580 soc. i've got noctua d14 on hands now but i realized that i have to put the gtx580 in the second slot. even if i rotate the d14 (place it vertically), i've only got really really close gap between the d14 and the gtx580 backplate. plus i don't really like the d14 to blow warm air to the backplate and i can't use the sidepanel fan to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i need something that smaller but sufficient to cool my oc'ed I5, 24/7. some friends recommends h80, but to be honest i just prefer old school air cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , any suggestion guys?
> p.s : will post pics as soon as i get a camera


From what i can gather, the highest performing coolers in "medium" form factors are the prolimatech megahalems/supermega, the alpenföhn matterhorn and the scythe mugen 3. The matterhorn and mugen are both 158mm in height and 130mm in width, so they should fit nicely. Megahalems is a bit taller.
You can probably improve performance with all of them by swapping the stock fan for a scythe gentle typhoon or noctua NF-F12.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stompy*
> From what i can gather, the highest performing coolers in "medium" form factors are the prolimatech megahalems/supermega, the alpenföhn matterhorn and the scythe mugen 3. The matterhorn and mugen are both 158mm in height and 130mm in width, so they should fit nicely. Megahalems is a bit taller.
> You can probably improve performance with all of them by swapping the stock fan for a scythe gentle typhoon or noctua NF-F12.


True dat. However the wing boost-fans on matterhorn are great, especially the updated ones on rev.B. Just buy another one of those and you're golden.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I'll be posting some pics when I get my graphics card back from RMA. I cutout the grill on the front panel so you can see the fans better, re-done the cable management, swapped some fans, removed the top hdd cage fixings and hid my fan controller. I think it looks a lot better than before but I'll let you lot be the judges when I snap the pics. Thanks to everyone for the inspiration.


----------



## drka0tic

Hey guys... Another happy Midi owner here.
I was finally able to move over all my components from my huge Cosmos case. It was quite a challenge considering this case is a bit smaller.
Unfortunately, with my XSPC pump/res combo, I no longer have space for a CD drive and my fan controller. Currently the fan controller is screwed on to the top of the hard drive bay








I plan to sell the XSPC res and purchase a separate pump and cylindrical reservoir so I can free up the front bays.
Also plan to install an EX140 rad (when its released) at the front intake.
What worries me is that found it really difficult to maneuver the 1/2" piping. It's gonna be a bit more challenging once I expand the loop. However, I really don't want to switch over to 3/8" as I'll have to buy new fittings









Well, here are some pics of my work in progress.


----------



## 161029

Like what you did with the fan controller.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Like what you did with the fan controller.


thx


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Hey guys... Another happy Midi owner here.
> I was finally able to move over all my components from my huge Cosmos case. It was quite a challenge considering this case is a bit smaller.
> Unfortunately, with my XSPC pump/res combo, I no longer have space for a CD drive and my fan controller. Currently the fan controller is screwed on to the top of the hard drive bay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to sell the XSPC res and purchase a separate pump and cylindrical reservoir so I can free up the front bays.
> Also plan to install an EX140 rad (when its released) at the front intake.
> What worries me is that found it really difficult to maneuver the 1/2" piping. It's gonna be a bit more challenging once I expand the loop. However, I really don't want to switch over to 3/8" as I'll have to buy new fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, here are some pics of my work in progress.


9.7 / 10


----------



## adi518

I don't know why but my hdd is causing irritating vibration sounds lately. Can't figure out why. It comes and goes, if I touch the case slightly it stops. :\


----------



## csm725

The main reason I'm upgrading cases is to get rid of HDD vibrations.
That's irritating.


----------



## adi518

I think it might be my fault so don't get worried too soon lol... you're too jumpy-to-conclusions Mister.









I'm just wondering if anyone ever noticed an easy to spot reason for this to happen because I'm too lazy to reopen the case and start fiddling with it.









It's probably something I did lately to cause this... it certainly shouldn't happen. The hdd mounts have rubber on them.


----------



## lolofuxy

Picture of my R3



edit: and one more little closer


----------



## lurker2501

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Hey guys... Another happy Midi owner here.
> I was finally able to move over all my components from my huge Cosmos case. It was quite a challenge considering this case is a bit smaller.
> Unfortunately, with my XSPC pump/res combo, I no longer have space for a CD drive and my fan controller. Currently the fan controller is screwed on to the top of the hard drive bay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to sell the XSPC res and purchase a separate pump and cylindrical reservoir so I can free up the front bays.
> Also plan to install an EX140 rad (when its released) at the front intake.
> What worries me is that found it really difficult to maneuver the 1/2" piping. It's gonna be a bit more challenging once I expand the loop. However, I really don't want to switch over to 3/8" as I'll have to buy new fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, here are some pics of my work in progress.





drka0tic, absolutely love your case 10/10


----------



## lolofuxy

wrong post


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> drka0tic, absolutely love your case 10/10


thanks


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I don't know why but my hdd is causing irritating vibration sounds lately. Can't figure out why. It comes and goes, if I touch the case slightly it stops. :\


In assuming you only have one drive, you can remove the empty drive sled above your HD. Maybe your HD is touching that empty sled and causing vibrations?


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I don't know why but my hdd is causing irritating vibration sounds lately. Can't figure out why. It comes and goes, if I touch the case slightly it stops. :\


I had the same issue. It turned out that one of my drives was vibrating beyond a reasonable level...so I replaced it. Problem solved:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1215427/case-vibration-solved


----------



## hellwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Alpenföhn matterhorn and Coolink Corator DS come to my mind... Think the matterhorn has an equivalent from deepcool, dunno the exact model though. Oh and I've done a small review on it, can be found if you click the "1" on the "Reviews:" under my repcount.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stompy*
> 
> From what i can gather, the highest performing coolers in "medium" form factors are the prolimatech megahalems/supermega, the alpenföhn matterhorn and the scythe mugen 3. The matterhorn and mugen are both 158mm in height and 130mm in width, so they should fit nicely. Megahalems is a bit taller.
> You can probably improve performance with all of them by swapping the stock fan for a scythe gentle typhoon or noctua NF-F12.


i don't think i can get Alpenföhn products in my country (indonesia), but i'll check prolimatech product









quick photos










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







really close gap between d14 and vga backplate


----------



## Stompy

If you can get Noctua products easily, then the Noctua NH-U12 might be another candidate for a good 120mm cooler. Height 158mm, widht 126mm. I haven't seen comparison tests for this one, though.


----------



## DarthShader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> The main reason I'm upgrading cases is to get rid of HDD vibrations.
> That's irritating.


Don't upgraded cases, suspend your hard drives!

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article8-page2.html

Eventualy, upgrade to cases which allow such trick to be isntalled neatly.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

I have a Noctua NH-U12P SE2 and have never seen temps above 36C. This is on my sig rig by the way. Would definintly reccomend it.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthShader*
> 
> Don't upgraded cases, suspend your hard drives!
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article8-page2.html
> Eventualy, upgrade to cases which allow such trick to be isntalled neatly.


You can certainly do that, but you shouldn't need to do so. Any drive that vibrates that much has issues IMHO. My Caviar Greens float between 5400 and 7200...and regardless of their speed, you can barely feel anything when touching them. In contrast, the Samsung Spinpoint that I noted in the linked thread vibrated about ten times more than my old 10K RPM Raptor.

You can try to isolate such vibration, but I didn't even want to try. If an HD vibrates that much, I don't want to store my data on it.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthShader*
> 
> Don't upgraded cases, suspend your hard drives!
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/article8-page2.html
> Eventualy, upgrade to cases which allow such trick to be isntalled neatly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can certainly do that, but you shouldn't need to do so. Any drive that vibrates that much has issues IMHO. My Caviar Greens float between 5400 and 7200...and regardless of their speed, you can barely feel anything when touching them. In contrast, the Samsung Spinpoint that I noted in the linked thread vibrated about ten times more than my old 10K RPM Raptor.
> 
> You can try to isolate such vibration, but I didn't even want to try. If an HD vibrates that much, I don't want to store my data on it.
Click to expand...

You should try a FAEX WD Black 1 TB. That thing is a beast when it comes to speeds, but seeking is super noisy and vibrations are no better.

In my old In-Win Griffin case, screwed directly to the case, you could feel the whole case vibrating, the rubber mounts on the plastic CM690II HDD trays are a life saver, now it's just when it's doing a massive amount of seeking it gets annoying.


----------



## piskooooo

You can fit a H100/240 Rad in the top of an Arc Mini right?


----------



## Paranoia

From their website...you can depending on how thick the rad is
Arc Mini
Support for dual 120mm radiator in top*

- Up to 40mm radiator thickness: Support for most water CPU coolers and larger memory modules.
- Up to 50mm radiator thickness: Support for most water CPU coolers and standard memory modules with a height of max 40mm.
- Up to 70mm radiator thickness: Support for only certain water CPU coolers, depending on the water inlet and outlet. Supports standard memory modules with a height of max 40mm.


----------



## Paranoia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piskooooo*
> 
> You can fit a H100/240 Rad in the top of an Arc Mini right?


From their website...you can depending on how thick the rad is
Arc Mini
Support for dual 120mm radiator in top*

- Up to 40mm radiator thickness: Support for most water CPU coolers and larger memory modules.
- Up to 50mm radiator thickness: Support for most water CPU coolers and standard memory modules with a height of max 40mm.
- Up to 70mm radiator thickness: Support for only certain water CPU coolers, depending on the water inlet and outlet. Supports standard memory modules with a height of max 40mm.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Well, I am officially over the included Fractal Fan Controller....and the fans.









My case didn't sound right last night so I turned it off before going to bed...and fired it up when I got home from work. Sounded okay then, but I decided to adjust the fan controller to just spin the fans up higher and see how they sounded. Nothing happened. Normally, I would hear them spinning faster very clearly, so I tried to spin them down some and waited. Still nothing. After a couple of adjustments, spin down they did...to stop. Nothing would get them started again.

Great. Dead fan controller...30 days in...after dialing it in weeks ago and not touching it.

Okay, so I decided to wire the fans directly to the MB for now...and that's when I saw my larger issue - my front intake fan had a light sheen of oil around the cowling. It was just on the inside, but when I wiped it with a tissue, there was enough that it left a golden color on the tissue. What the heck?

I pulled the fan and the front of the case and checked. There appears to be nothing on the filter at all - i.e., nothing pulled in from the front. I can't say with 100% certainty that it wasn't there when I built, but I am pretty sure I would have noticed it if it was. I think the bearing blew a seal. Amazing. Has anyone seen this before?

cheers,
Scuba


----------



## adi518

Dispatch an email to Fractal.


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Princess Garnet*
> 
> I hope you guys don't mind me posing this question here, but I hope it's not too out of place.
> I'm considering moving to a bit smaller and more subtle case. I have a full tower Cooler Master Stacker 830 SE right now. I've been browsing around a bit over the past few days, and the Fractal Arc Midi and Fractal Define R3 are two of my three top choices (the Xigmatek Midgard II is the other), and that's the rough order I am considering them in. I like how the Arc Mini is even smaller while still having a lot of space for hard drives, but I don't want to swap out my motherboard, and the Midi wouldn't be too big for me.
> I have some questions.
> A few posts up, vibrations from the hard disk drives were mentioned. This is a concern to me. I have four, and my current case does very well at dampening them by having rubber grommets between the drive cages and the case, so I wouldn't want to introduce that. I would have them spaced every other bay in the case of the Arc Midi. To those who have three or four or more drives, is this an issue to you? I noticed it uses metal sleds and the drives appear to be screwed into small rubber grommets? Does this work well?
> I don't have a modular PSU, and it's even one of the ones with a rear style fan. To those with non-modular PSUs, is it tough? My current case has it mounted at the top, so I sort of tuck the extra wires above the optical disk drive, and the spares that are running down under the hard disk drive cages, but now I won't be able to. It's of some old hardware, but the wiring is like this.
> My CPU and GPU (more the GPU) can run warm on a bad day (Crysis during the summer). Right now, I have an "open style" case, so I recently cut back on the capability and number of fans by using four standard Cooler Master ones since having the extra fans blow on it did nothing to help temperatures but added a lot of noise. How is the cooling in this case? I don't want to have go and spend $40+ on some fans. It's a shame that, at least from my research, the stock fans aren't available separately in the states? Some say they are quiet and some say they aren't, but most say they aren't that great. I notice everyone here seems to be using them though. Does everyone just do the "front and sides intake and back and top exhaust" or is there a better way and/or some fans you're better off without?
> Lastly, I have two things to comment on.
> I'm not a fan of the top USB ports. They get dust and such in them. I may look into those small covers someone got them a little earlier in this thread.
> Secondly, while I want to try something different and get something smaller and more subtle in the process (though I still like what I have), I'm not thrilled by the static Black offerings, and the Silver door on the Define R3 doesn't change that for me. I wish they were silver and Black like what I have. I'd be all over them quicker.
> Sorry to be so excessive, especially since I'm not totally sure I'm going to do anything, or if I even choose a Fractal offering if I do (and on that note, any other suggestions?), but I am serious about researching it and can see myself 50/50 on doing it and ending up with an Arc Midi or Define R3, hence the attention to detail.


I'm pretty sure that the episodes of HDD vibrations mentioned are pretty isolated. The mounting system here is top notch. I dig it.

There is ample space behind the mobo for all the PSU cables. I have not heard of anybody saying it was a tight squeeze. There is about an inch.

The stock fans do suck IMHO. They can move some air but are noisy as heck. I do not think most people will be happy unless they replace them. Note, only 140mm fans will fit in the front. Many people have had the best luck with a front intake, a top intake, and a rear exhaust. Some people even report better cooling with no rear fan at all and the rear grill cut out.

I like the top mounted usb's. They are easily accessible. I have seen some with the ports at the very bottom. Very inconvenient.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Dispatch an email to Fractal.


I did, but I am not even sure why. At this point, I am not sticking another one of their fans in my case..and their fan controller isn't worth my time. I will probably drop in some PWM fans and connect them directly to my MB.

My satisfaction with Fractal just dropped off significantly. Oil leaking? When powered by THEIR fan controller? Which also died. Yeah, not happy at all.


----------



## adi518




----------



## Suffokate666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> I did, but I am not even sure why. At this point, I am not sticking another one of their fans in my case..and their fan controller isn't worth my time. I will probably drop in some PWM fans and connect them directly to my MB.
> My satisfaction with Fractal just dropped off significantly. Oil leaking? When powered by THEIR fan controller? Which also died. Yeah, not happy at all.


I've heard of several people having that fan controller die. But when it comes down to it I didn't buy my Define Mini because it had a fan controller. I bought it for the multitude of other things it brings to the table. You'd be better off buying a semi cheap aftermarket fan controller anyways... As far as the fan leaking oil, that is pretty bogus, but then again i've never really been impressed by any stock case fan.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suffokate666*
> 
> I've heard of several people having that fan controller die. But when it comes down to it I didn't buy my Define Mini because it had a fan controller. I bought it for the multitude of other things it brings to the table. You'd be better off buying a semi cheap aftermarket fan controller anyways... As far as the fan leaking oil, that is pretty bogus, but then again i've never really been impressed by any stock case fan.


Yeah, it's really the oil that has torqued me hard.

The fan controller is less of an issue, but regardless, the failure rate is unacceptable...and I had gone to considerable trouble to install it cleanly and zip tie everything...so I can't say that it failing (with almost no tweaking) also does not disappoint me.

But yeah, that oil...that trumps the controller issue. I am now dumping all of their fans...and I was happy with them before...so add another 40 or 50 beans to the cost of this case. Grrrr.


----------



## Suffokate666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Yeah, it's really the oil that has torqued me hard.
> The fan controller is less of an issue, but regardless, the failure rate is unacceptable...and I had gone to considerable trouble to install it cleanly and zip tie everything...so I can't say that it failing (with almost no tweaking) also does not disappoint me.
> But yeah, that oil...that trumps the controller issue. I am now dumping all of their fans...and I was happy with them before...so add another 40 or 50 beans to the cost of this case. Grrrr.


Yeah I replaced the stock case fans with Noctua NF-12s right off the bat, so I can't really speak on those fans. I can say though that from perusings around the net that you are the first person i've heard of having oil leak out of the stock fans. Sounds like a pretty isolated incident, regardless though, that would definately have me bent out of shape too! QAQC can't be 100% perfect though I suppose.


----------



## adi518

I wish Noctua would stop making such ugly fans... they're great and all but damn, what this ugly color scheme they picked up for their brand, lol.


----------



## Suffokate666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wish Noctua would stop making such ugly fans... they're great and all but damn, what this ugly color scheme they picked up for their brand, lol.


Yeah I love the fans, but the poop color scheme kinda kills it. At least my case doesn't have a window so I'm not stuck looking at them all the time... Maybe if I get some motivation to mod a window into it ill just paint the fans to look like the stock Fractal fans (I like the black and white color scheme!)


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wish Noctua would stop making such ugly fans... they're great and all but damn, what this ugly color scheme they picked up for their brand, lol.


i think its brilliant marketing,instantly recognisable, totally unique colour scheme that you can pick in any build or next to any other fans and they are very tricky to paint because the blades cant be removed.
personally i dont mind the colour but its also a measure of their quality that people who dont still use them.

Its only that smallish % of peolpe who go to the trouble of picking the perfect components to match looks and performance that they lose out on..Maybe its time they offered more flexibility, a modders line where you could choose your own colours or at least invert the current scheme.


----------



## adi518

It does set them apart, that's true indeed. However, enthusiasts do have a problem with it. :\


----------



## Suffokate666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wish Noctua would stop making such ugly fans... they're great and all but damn, what this ugly color scheme they picked up for their brand, lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> i think its brilliant marketing,instantly recognisable, totally unique colour scheme that you can pick in any build or next to any other fans and they are very tricky to paint because the blades cant be removed.
> personally i dont mind the colour but its also a measure of their quality that people who dont still use them.
> Its only that smallish % of peolpe who go to the trouble of picking the perfect components to match looks and performance that they lose out on..Maybe its time they offered more flexibility, a modders line where you could choose your own colours or at least invert the current scheme.


Now that would be amazing if they let you customize the color scheme on their fans. They'd have a customer out of me for life (they pretty much already do just based on performance alone)


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Suffokate666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wish Noctua would stop making such ugly fans... they're great and all but damn, what this ugly color scheme they picked up for their brand, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> i think its brilliant marketing,instantly recognisable, totally unique colour scheme that you can pick in any build or next to any other fans and they are very tricky to paint because the blades cant be removed.
> personally i dont mind the colour but its also a measure of their quality that people who dont still use them.
> Its only that smallish % of peolpe who go to the trouble of picking the perfect components to match looks and performance that they lose out on..Maybe its time they offered more flexibility, a modders line where you could choose your own colours or at least invert the current scheme.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Now that would be amazing if they let you customize the color scheme on their fans. They'd have a customer out of me for life (they pretty much already do just based on performance alone)
Click to expand...

They would have the entire customer base at that point...


----------



## drka0tic

Can anyone recommend any other 140mm fans with a black/white color scheme? I have no issue with the noise of the Fractal ones, it's just that I feel they don't move enough air.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Suffokate666*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wish Noctua would stop making such ugly fans... they're great and all but damn, what this ugly color scheme they picked up for their brand, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> i think its brilliant marketing,instantly recognisable, totally unique colour scheme that you can pick in any build or next to any other fans and they are very tricky to paint because the blades cant be removed.
> personally i dont mind the colour but its also a measure of their quality that people who dont still use them.
> Its only that smallish % of peolpe who go to the trouble of picking the perfect components to match looks and performance that they lose out on..Maybe its time they offered more flexibility, a modders line where you could choose your own colours or at least invert the current scheme.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Now that would be amazing if they let you customize the color scheme on their fans. They'd have a customer out of me for life (they pretty much already do just based on performance alone)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They would have the entire customer base at that point...
Click to expand...

No, they wouldn't. No matter what colour their fans are, there will still be people who think that their fans are overpriced due to the Noctua name.
Their new fans, NF-F12 if I'm not mistaken, are awesome performers and they actually look great (even though I'd prefer another colour scheme but that wouldnt be a deal breaker). It's just that the price is almost double of what other good fans cost. In here 120mm Akasa Viper is around 14 euros, Yate Loon around 5 euros, GT's 10-15 euros depending on speed while NF-F12 is over 20 euros. Even CM Excalibur fans are cheaper (around 19 euros) and perform (and look) better than nf-f12 do IIRC.
But yeah, I think their fans should be 3-5 euros cheaper for me to consider buying 'em.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> Can anyone recommend any other 140mm fans with a black/white color scheme? I have no issue with the noise of the Fractal ones, it's just that I feel they don't move enough air.


I know many black fans and some white 140mm fans that I could recommend, but no black and white ones... I think NZXT has some, maybe Sharkoon...


----------



## ChesterCat

The discussion of these fans has been an ongoing thing.... [for months]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Got the case, for the case....not the fans. These guys have put one heck of a great box together, with what I consider to be quite the bargain price. No way you're get this kinda case, with premium fans, and still pay $99
> Since cooling is "kinda"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> important....why gamble with the unknown ? *sarcasm*


Not surprised one bit with these fan failures. With such an important componet
.....I buy fans from "Mfg's" that actually "make" fans.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> I know many black fans and some white 140mm fans that I could recommend, but no black and white ones... I think NZXT has some, maybe Sharkoon...


This model FX-140LB from NZXT looks pretty good:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=33061

Anyone have any experience with them?


----------



## lurker2501

i would by my arc even without the fans, which are pretty average and a fan controller. speaking of which, what good fanbus would you people recommend? i'm thinking about scythe Kaze line


----------



## Suffokate666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> i would by my arc even without the fans, which are pretty average and a fan controller. speaking of which, what good fanbus would you people recommend? i'm thinking about scythe Kaze line


I've got a Scythe Kaze Master Pro, I love it!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Has anyone had any problems with having a D14 and a graphics card in slot 1?

I'm thinking about moving my card into the 2nd slot because the D14 is touching my 6970. Installing the card is a pain, I have to angle it into the slot then straighten it up and lock it in place.

I'm starting to think that is the reason why I had no signal issues, maybe it bent the pci-e connector on my card and it was sitting in the slot nicely.

What do you think?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Has anyone had any problems with having a D14 and a graphics card in slot 1?
> 
> I'm thinking about moving my card into the 2nd slot because the D14 is touching my 6970. Installing the card is a pain, I have to angle it into the slot then straighten it up and lock it in place.
> 
> I'm starting to think that is the reason why I had no signal issues, maybe it bent the pci-e connector on my card and it was sitting in the slot nicely.
> 
> What do you think?


D14 touching the card on 1st slot is known issue, especially if your card has backplate. You are actually adviced to put some electric tape between the heatsink and backplate so that metal isnt touching metal. One of the cons of huge heatsinks.


----------



## harlen

Need some better pictures, but this is my Fractal Design Arc Mini. Will be SLI when Kepler comes out, so just a 570 for now while waiting for nvidia to play catch up


----------



## Suffokate666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harlen*
> 
> Need some better pictures, but this is my Fractal Design Arc Mini. Will be SLI when Kepler comes out, so just a 570 for now while waiting for nvidia to play catch up


Looks really slick man!







Top notch work


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *harlen*
> 
> Need some better pictures, but this is my Fractal Design Arc Mini. Will be SLI when Kepler comes out, so just a 570 for now while waiting for nvidia to play catch up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Damn nice work man, now I have to follow up with my update which looks like nothing compared to yours:

*List of specs:*

Fractal Design Core 1000
EVGA P55 Micro SLI
Intel X3480
8 GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance White LP RAM
120 GB Solid 3
320 GB Scorpio Blue
AMD 6870 with VF3000A
Coolit Eco CPU cooler with original Coolit Fan and shroud in pull as intake
Scythe Kaze-Q Fan Controller
OCZ 550 W ZS PSU


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> D14 touching the card on 1st slot is known issue, especially if your card has backplate. You are actually adviced to put some electric tape between the heatsink and backplate so that metal isnt touching metal. One of the cons of huge heatsinks.


Thanks. I clearly didn't do my homework when I moved from atx to matx.
My replacement card has arrived so when I get a chance I'll put some electrical tape on, or move it to the second slot just to be safe.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> D14 touching the card on 1st slot is known issue, especially if your card has backplate. You are actually adviced to put some electric tape between the heatsink and backplate so that metal isnt touching metal. One of the cons of huge heatsinks.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I clearly didn't do my homework when I moved from atx to matx.
> My replacement card has arrived so when I get a chance I'll put some electrical tape on, or move it to the second slot just to be safe.
Click to expand...

No probs. I wouldnt sweat about it as long as the card/slot doesnt bend, but the electrical tape doesnt sound like a bad idea at all


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Damn nice work man, now I have to follow up with my update which looks like nothing compared to yours:
> *List of specs:*
> 
> Fractal Design Core 1000
> EVGA P55 Micro SLI
> Intel X3480
> 8 GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance White LP RAM
> 120 GB Solid 3
> 320 GB Scorpio Blue
> AMD 6870 with VF3000A
> Coolit Eco CPU cooler with original Coolit Fan and shroud in pull as intake
> Scythe Kaze-Q Fan Controller
> OCZ 550 W ZS PSU


You finished?







Thumbs up to you.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Damn nice work man, now I have to follow up with my update which looks like nothing compared to yours:
> *List of specs:*
> 
> Fractal Design Core 1000
> EVGA P55 Micro SLI
> Intel X3480
> 8 GB DDR3 Corsair Vengeance White LP RAM
> 120 GB Solid 3
> 320 GB Scorpio Blue
> AMD 6870 with VF3000A
> Coolit Eco CPU cooler with original Coolit Fan and shroud in pull as intake
> Scythe Kaze-Q Fan Controller
> OCZ 550 W ZS PSU
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You finished?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thumbs up to you.
Click to expand...

Thanks buddy









And not finished my any means, just operational:

Motherboard cover
GPU backplate
Paint fans white and red
Possible custom WC loop with painted parts
Plexi side panel (full panel, not just a window)
White plates for HDD and SSD, or mount them front side and paint front of HDD
Sleeved cables
Anything else I add to the list


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And not finished my any means, just operational:
> 
> Motherboard cover
> GPU backplate
> Paint fans white and red
> Possible custom WC loop with painted parts
> Plexi side panel (full panel, not just a window)
> White plates for HDD and SSD, or mount them front side and paint front of HDD
> Sleeved cables
> Anything else I add to the list


I should probably check the work log more often.







Looking forward to it.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And not finished my any means, just operational:
> 
> Motherboard cover
> GPU backplate
> Paint fans white and red
> Possible custom WC loop with painted parts
> Plexi side panel (full panel, not just a window)
> White plates for HDD and SSD, or mount them front side and paint front of HDD
> Sleeved cables
> Anything else I add to the list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should probably check the work log more often.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to it.
Click to expand...

If you became one of my followers, you would get all the updates









And there has been a lot of work as of late, finally got some time to do some work. Even my main rig, Canary Red got a full WC loop.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> If you became one of my followers, you would get all the updates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And there has been a lot of work as of late, finally got some time to do some work. Even my main rig, Canary Red got a full WC loop.


Is that a bribe?







I'll just subscribe to the thread, after I clean out my subscriptions for threads that have died.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> If you became one of my followers, you would get all the updates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And there has been a lot of work as of late, finally got some time to do some work. Even my main rig, Canary Red got a full WC loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a bribe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just subscribe to the thread, after I clean out my subscriptions for threads that have died.
Click to expand...

Just follow me directly, then you get all my threads haha


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Just follow me directly, then you get all my threads haha


Never! I will follow communist China...Forever! jk I would never do that. Communism...


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

*Update on Fractal 120mm fan leaking oil...and dead fan controller*

I emailed Fractal and they got back to me fairly quickly. They are going to send replacements...and also promised to look into the lot number to see if their are issues. They were actually very nice about the issue...which dented my frustration a bit.

That said, I have moved on. I ordered three 120mm PWM Noiseblockers and am removing all of my Fractal fans...and will be letting my Gene-Z control them.

The bad one and the fan controller are trash, but the other two (120mm and 140mm) are good with very low mileage...and the replacement 120mm will be brand new. My system is down now, but after the new fans arrive (tomorrow?), I will be swapping them and then selling the Fractals. It's premature to list them now, but once they are removed, they will be for sale if anyone is interested. I'll post in the appropriate forum at that time.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Just to clear something up about the fans, the ones that come with the cases are not really Fractal Design fans, they are a cheap but reasonable OEM. The fans Fractal Sell seperatly are much better quality and not the same.

The picture below shows how different they are. On the right are the fans that come with the case and on the left is one of the Fractal Design Silent Series fans i got today. The Fractal SS fans are very quiet and as a silence freak one of the only fans i will use without a controller or inline resistor. They have a nice quality feel to them.



Definintly reccomend these fans and will hopefully be swaping most fans in my system to them soon.


----------



## NARF

Hey,

I have the Define R3 and I'm looking for a good fan setup.
Currently I have the stock fans in rear (push) and front (pull) and an old fan from my former heatsink as an exhaust (top).
The exhaust fans speed is controlled by the mainboard.
Does it even make sense to have just one fan pulling in and 2 pushing out?
Could the negative pressure cause a bad airflow?
Do different fans with different speeds work well together?

Thanks


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Just to clear something up about the fans, the ones that come with the cases are not really Fractal Design fans, they are a cheap but reasonable OEM. The fans Fractal Sell seperatly are much better quality and not the same.
> The picture below shows how different they are. On the right are the fans that come with the case and on the left is one of the Fractal Design Silent Series fans i got today. The Fractal SS fans are very quiet and as a silence freak one of the only fans i will use without a controller or inline resistor. They have a nice quality feel to them.
> 
> Definintly reccomend these fans and will hopefully be swaping most fans in my system to them soon.


That explains why the specs are a little different.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NARF*
> 
> Hey,
> I have the Define R3 and I'm looking for a good fan setup.
> Currently I have the stock fans in rear (push) and front (pull) and an old fan from my former heatsink as an exhaust (top).
> The exhaust fans speed is controlled by the mainboard.
> Does it even make sense to have just one fan pulling in and 2 pushing out?
> Could the negative pressure cause a bad airflow?
> Do different fans with different speeds work well together?
> Thanks


Lot of good questions. I am sure that there are many who know far more about case cooling than I do, but I was a firefighter for a dozen years...and our rule of thumb for venting smoke from a structure (after the fire is out) is to ensure that the fans blowing in are through an opening equal to or greater than than the size of the exhaust opening on the other side of the structure (in which we often hang a negative pressure fan) to create a bit of overpressure.

Of course, we also close doors to compartmentalize things while we do it, so good luck there.







That said, those structures are fairly well-sealed relative to a case from a surface area percentage point of view. Most cases have many other areas in which air can leak in or out. Less so with the R3 if you have the side sealed.

Is it better to try and pull more out or cram more in? I think that is very dependent on the case design, where your components are, where your fan mounts are, and how many fans you have. You also have to be careful not to vent hot air from one source as input to another source...if you can help it. As with smoke ventilation, fan placement can also cause "churning", which is inefficient.

There is also a lot of data that suggests that a rear exhaust fan actually results in CPU temps that are a couple of degrees higher than a case that simply doesn't have one, presumably because a CPU cooler fan running at higher RPM has to force the air through the slower exhaust fan. My plan to deal with that phenomenon is to place the exact same model of PWM fan that is on my CPU cooler as an exhaust fan and plug it into my second CPU temp-controlled fan header...so their RPMs (and CFMs) always match. Seems to make sense. Of course, I could also just pull the rear fan and set up an outflow fan on the cooler, but I like this layout a tad better.

If I had unobstructed inlet air flow path, I would prefer to have two input fans on the front of my case, directing air from front to back - the same direction as the CPU cooler fan. That said, drive cages get in the way. In my Mini, I can at least remove one. I believe that they are fixed in the R3. That seems like a challenge. Perhaps an R3 owner who has done some experimentation can weigh in.

cheers,
Scuba


----------



## NARF

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.









Based on this information I'm going to test different layouts.
Especially the rear fan stuff.
Because I have a cubic heatsink on my cpu I can also easily switch it from blowing from bottom to top or side to side.
After I tested some layouts, I gonna post the information back here.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NARF*
> 
> Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on this information I'm going to test different layouts.
> Especially the rear fan stuff.
> Because I have a cubic heatsink on my cpu I can also easily switch it from blowing from bottom to top or side to side.
> After I tested some layouts, I gonna post the information back here.


Excellent!







The best info is actual data...instead of some wag like me blowing hot air.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just to clear something up about the fans, the ones that come with the cases are not really Fractal Design fans, they are a cheap but reasonable OEM. The fans Fractal Sell seperatly are much better quality and not the same.
> The picture below shows how different they are. On the right are the fans that come with the case and on the left is one of the Fractal Design Silent Series fans i got today. The Fractal SS fans are very quiet and as a silence freak one of the only fans i will use without a controller or inline resistor. They have a nice quality feel to them.
> 
> Definintly reccomend these fans and will hopefully be swaping most fans in my system to them soon.


Karma to you.


----------



## Stompy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NARF*
> 
> Hey,
> I have the Define R3 and I'm looking for a good fan setup.
> Currently I have the stock fans in rear (push) and front (pull) and an old fan from my former heatsink as an exhaust (top).
> The exhaust fans speed is controlled by the mainboard.
> Does it even make sense to have just one fan pulling in and 2 pushing out?
> Could the negative pressure cause a bad airflow?
> Do different fans with different speeds work well together?
> Thanks


I found a website with temperature results from various fan settings in a fractal Arc. While not 100% comparable, the overall trends should be the same in an R3. The site is in german, but the results should be self explanatory.

The 1x in, 2x out version is actually a very good setup for temperatures. Not ideal for dust buildup, because the case will be sucking in air (and dust) from all available unfiltered openings.
I personally use a setup with two front intake fans and one rear exhaust for my R3. I also tested a setup with 2 front intake, 2 rear/top exhaust fans. Temperatures are a little higher (2-3°C) for my 3-fan setup then in the 4-fan version. I still prefer the 3-fan version with two intakes, because it is quieter and all the dust is caught on the front filters.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stompy*
> 
> I found a website with temperature results from various fan settings in a fractal Arc. While not 100% comparable, the overall trends should be the same in an R3. The site is in german, but the results should be self explanatory.
> The 1x in, 2x out version is actually a very good setup for temperatures. Not ideal for dust buildup, because the case will be sucking in air (and dust) from all available unfiltered openings.
> I personally use a setup with two front intake fans and one rear exhaust for my R3. I also tested a setup with 2 front intake, 2 rear/top exhaust fans. Temperatures are a little higher (2-3°C) for my 3-fan setup then in the 4-fan version. I still prefer the 3-fan version with two intakes, because it is quieter and all the dust is caught on the front filters.


Excellent point about dust


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

New Fans!









Well, I jacked all three of my Fractal fans and my (dead) Fractal fan controller. Fractal is sending me replacements, but I am just going to sell the set to defray the costs of the replacements.

In their place, I dropped a CPU outflow (pull) fan on my 212 EVO - same model as the input fan - CM XtraFlow 120mm PWM...and I left the rear exhaust fan off since that config seems to yield the lowest CPU temps.

I replaced the front intake and top exhaust with 120mm PWM Noiseblocker BlackSilentPro PLPS fans...and am letting my MB control them. I bought a third as well to use as a second intake on the front, but have left it out for now to monitor temps. The temps look great so far...and at idle, CPU and chassis fans are nearly silent. It was a bit pricey, but quiet is nice.


----------



## a88mckeen

Hi guys, so I couldn't find any Arc Midi pictures to confirm/deny my hope, but is there physically enough room to fit a dual slot graphics card in the bottom slot of a motherboard (which lines up with the last slot on an Arc Midi). I am guessing no, but can any midi owners confirm this? Thanks.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a88mckeen*
> 
> Hi guys, so I couldn't find any Arc Midi pictures to confirm/deny my hope, but is there physically enough room to fit a dual slot graphics card in the bottom slot of a motherboard (which lines up with the last slot on an Arc Midi). I am guessing no, but can any midi owners confirm this? Thanks.


You should be able to. There's 8 slots and ATX mobos only have 7 at most (I think).


----------



## a88mckeen

The Midi has only 7 slots, and I have a pcie as the last slot that I want to use, but from pictures it is hard to tell if a dual slot will fit.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a88mckeen*
> 
> The Midi has only 7 slots, and I have a pcie as the last slot that I want to use, but from pictures it is hard to tell if a dual slot will fit.


I wonder why does top mounted rads appear skewed a little, like it's not 100% perpendicular to the case. Puzzles me entirely.


----------



## Vathral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NARF*
> 
> Hey,
> I have the Define R3 and I'm looking for a good fan setup.
> Currently I have the stock fans in rear (push) and front (pull) and an old fan from my former heatsink as an exhaust (top).
> The exhaust fans speed is controlled by the mainboard.
> Does it even make sense to have just one fan pulling in and 2 pushing out?
> Could the negative pressure cause a bad airflow?
> Do different fans with different speeds work well together?
> Thanks


This might be of help for you?
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1

They test the Fractal Design Define R3 with several different fan configurations.


----------



## conwa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Moar pictures. Sorry can't make better pics.
> specs
> rad: Alphacool 360 XT45 full copper.
> res: Magicool 150 mm with 2x Alphacool 50mm res holder.
> pump: Phobya DC12-260
> tubing: Masterkleer 16/10 UV orange
> I used the 240rad mounting holes.
> 
> Lazy reservoir mounting.
> 
> Behind the hdd cage is 70x100x150mm room for pump.
> 
> 
> 360 rad still left room for a fan controller.
> 
> Peace!


Im about to buy this set: http://ic.tweakimg.net/ext/va/473408.jpg

And i do want to build it like u did, but i was wondering: where do u leave the cd-rom drive?


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *conwa*
> 
> Im about to buy this set: http://ic.tweakimg.net/ext/va/473408.jpg
> And i do want to build it like u did, but i was wondering: where do u leave the cd-rom drive?


you use a USB one


----------



## NARF

Thanks Vathral and Stompy for the links.
Exactly what I was looking for.








The german link works fine for me since I am from germany.
If anyone wants a translation of parts of the review, just ask for it.

I just realized I can't change my CPU fans direction to blowing from bottom to top, because my heatsink is so huge.
Between the heatsink and the graphics card there is only 2.5 cm (1 inch) space, so it would be a bad idea to try it







.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NARF*
> 
> I just realized I can't change my CPU fans direction to bottom to top, because my heatsink is so huge.
> .


You attempted somthing like this ????


----------



## dartuil

hello do you guys know how many watt the arc midi fan controller can handle?


----------



## M4fade

Question!

Does anyone know if you can fit a side fan on the Define Mini with a P/P H80 installed as exhaust in the rear of the case? It looks like it'll clear just fine.. but I am not 100% sure.

I'd love to add a side-intake to my case but my damn Thermaltake Frio is in the way! Lookin' to get a smaller cooler that performs similar, an H80 sounds good.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello do you guys know how many watt the arc midi fan controller can handle?


About zero.







. Mine burned out in 30 days...with just the three Fractal fans connected.. I wouldn't waste any time on it.


----------



## axipher

Upgraded my Design Core 1000 to an H80 with push/pull AP-15's.


----------



## Stompy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> About zero.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mine burned out in 30 days...with just the three Fractal fans connected.. I wouldn't waste any time on it.


Just because your single unit broke down there is no reason to assume that all of them will do that. This fan controller is a very primitive thing, there is not all that much to go wrong.
If i thought that anything anyone ever had a problem with was unusable, then there wouldn't be anything to use.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> hello do you guys know how many watt the arc midi fan controller can handle?
> 
> 
> 
> About zero.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mine burned out in 30 days...with just the three Fractal fans connected.. I wouldn't waste any time on it.
Click to expand...

I have a poor memory but if I recall correctly, a Fractal rep said 10W when we asked about it. I rid myself of all responsibilities should someone burn his/her controller though


----------



## mablo

What are your guy's recommendations on filtering the side intake and top exhausts (in case i rotate one of the fans to be pushing air in instead of out)?
Any home made possibilities or aftermarket filters? My case is a Define R3.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mablo*
> 
> What are your guy's recommendations on filtering the side intake and top exhausts (in case i rotate one of the fans to be pushing air in instead of out)?
> Any home made possibilities or aftermarket filters? My case is a Define R3.


i ve got an r3 and i use DEMCi Flex Fan Filters .. they're magnetic, so no screws, very easy to clean and come in a variety of sizes and look great...not cheap but then quality never is,


----------



## Stompy

I used the Silverstone magnetic dust filters for 140mm fans. They work quite well. Might be cheaper than the DEMCi.


----------



## mablo

I was looking at the Silverstone ones too. DEMCi are twice more expensive.
Thanks for the replies.


----------



## TwentyCent

Anybody knows how easy it would be to reverse the mobo in the Define XL?


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Anybody knows how easy it would be to reverse the mobo in the Define XL?


Very easy tbh. Just flip the entire case around.

If not, extremely hard


----------



## candy_van

So I installed a 140mm Fractal fan in top exhaust of my case (Define Mini) and...wow does it vibrate a lot.

It came with these rubber screws, but I just used regular fan screws.
Has anyone used these push-through rubber mounts / how secure are they?

I'm thinking I might be better off getting some rubber grommets to use with the fan screws.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> So I installed a 140mm Fractal fan in top exhaust of my case (Define Mini) and...wow does it vibrate a lot.
> 
> It came with these rubber screws, but I just used regular fan screws.
> Has anyone used these push-through rubber mounts / how secure are they?
> 
> I'm thinking I might be better off getting some rubber grommets to use with the fan screws.


The rubber screws work great, only problem is when you have a flat case where the can screws go, then you have these rubber bumps sticking out.

I'm using the rubber screws on mt Core 1000 since it has little indents where your screws go and looks and sounds great.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stompy*
> 
> Just because your single unit broke down there is no reason to assume that all of them will do that. This fan controller is a very primitive thing, there is not all that much to go wrong.
> If i thought that anything anyone ever had a problem with was unusable, then there wouldn't be anything to use.


One or two pages back, someone commented about hearing numerous reports of dead fractal fan controllers...so I don't think that I am alone. Yes, it's primitive...and it died...so it couldn't handle the wattage of the three fans that they included with my Arc. Is my situation the norm? Almost certainly not, but I also doubt that I my situation is unique. Either way, the fan controller's wiring isn't sleeved, seems fairly delicate, and you only get one knob to control all of the fans....which often isn't really desirable.

I understand why. Fractal packages the case, removable drive chassis, slide out drive trays, front I/O panel (and wiring), accessory packs, three fans, and a fan controller...and needs to sell and ship all of that inexpensively enough to retailers to allow them to sell the kit for under 100 beans...while allowing both Fractal and the retailer to make a profit. How could they possibly include high-quality fans and controllers in that narrow profit margin? Hey, if they work for you, great, but one of my fans had a bearing leak and leaked oil...and the fan controller died while controlling only the three OEM fans. I have too much invested in the rest of my system to rely on those types of components. I pulled the fans and the controller and replaced with Noiseblocker PWMs.

Of course, if folks like the included fan components, great. Even better in fact, because Fractal replaced my dead fan and fan controller and I will now be selling my 3 fans and new fan controller elsewhere on this forum...so just an FYI for those who like the OEM components.









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Hmmm...well looks like I won't be selling my Fractal fans here. You need 35 rep to sell...and I suppose that I haven't been helpful enough.









They are for sale on [H] if anyone is looking for OEM Fractal fans. I don't want to put a link here and step on anyone's toes, but you can probably find the listing if you are interested. I'm posting here because I have seen many asking in this thread over the course of the last year.

cheers,
Scuba


----------



## axipher

Here's updated pics of the H80 with 2x Scythe AP-15's in Push/Pull and a beefy graphics card in a Fractal Design Core 1000.


----------



## ghostrider85

hello everyone? i'm about to buy an asus gtx 570 direct cuii, but i doubt that it will gonna fit in my ARC MINI without modification, can anyone chime in? thanks in advance!


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Are you kidding me? The GTX 570 DCUII will fit in an Arc Mini no problem. The Arc Mini is very big for an mATX case tbh.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostrider85*
> 
> hello everyone? i'm about to buy an asus gtx 570 direct cuii, but i doubt that it will gonna fit in my ARC MINI without modification, can anyone chime in? thanks in advance!


It will fit 100%
FD cases are amazing!


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

I just got the Fractal Design R3 in white a few days ago and built a new computer into it. I'm very happy with the case. I don't think the build quality is perfect in every aspect but for what you get (clean exterior, quality sound dampening material, quality switches, lots of space, excellent cable routing ability, fan filters, quality feet) I think it is great value at its price point. I almost ordered the Antec P183 and I'm glad I found the Fractal just in time while compiling my parts list. Never had a white case and I like this one a lot. I've read through this whole thread and I'm impressed at your guys' modding prowess and cable management skills - really some beautiful designs in here. I've never had a case with a window nor care about lighting (my case normally aren't very visible - to side of desk) but I do have an idea of my perfect case.

I give the case a 95/100.

Some things that I think would make the case even better (probably different from most of your guys' list):

1. I think the hard drive trays should be more solid and fit in better - not rattle.

2. The case should be a little more forward looking - should have an eSATA port on the top with the USB.

3. I think the case could be sold with an upgrade kit (premium silent fans with a quality fan controller that has separate control for each of 5 fans and matching color that mounts into the 5.25" slot - impossible to find a white fan controller now . . . )

4. More easily removable fan filters for easier cleaning, this was a must feature for me and I'm used to the Antec P180 that has fan filters with clips that are easily taken out, moved to the sink, and washed.

5. If number 3 isn't an option I think a better fan controller either way the included one is just not near the quality of the rest of the case.

6. A better manual (I know small gripe).

7. Switch to turn off front LED and/or switch colors or do a color transition from say blue to red.

8. Maybe a case strap / carrying strap (in an add-on kit maybe) - these cases are heavy.

9. Some internal edges are a little sharp.

10. The rubber grommets should probably be glued in or have a better seal.

11. I have had cases with front doors for a long time and like them but for a case this high quality I'd love to see the door be actual metal and true brushed aluminum.

12. Kinda surprised the R3 has not Fractal Design logo or the name printed anywhere on the case that I see . . .

13. Would love to have a case badge that is high quality like metal or some shield that has the Fractal Design logo on it.

14. Would love to see them offer some other colors too.

15. A top hard drive dock would also be cool.

Anyway, those are just my wish list for making this case even more perfect, I'm sure your guys list would be different. Either way this one of the best cases I've built into (including Lian Li).

I'd love to also see some Fractal Design accessories (case badges, shields, T-shirts, mice, keyboards, mouse pads, mugs). This company has done some serious quality work why stop with just a few cases?


----------



## sloppyjoe123

^ Some of your comments sorta applies to most cases on the market lol.

I agree with some of them though, like the rubber gromets which were a huge hassle to keep them on.
But do take note, that the R3 is considered cheap tbh. So stuff like high quality materials for the door, and better fan controllers, will cause the price to jack up and personally, Fractal makes very good brush aluminium knockoffs









And I think various colors will not fit the R3







Cant imagine such a professional looking case being anything other than black and white. Gray probably.

Apart from that, nice review







I would have given the same score.

My gripes would be too little space behind the mobo tray to hide the cables, the blue power LED is quite bright, and would have loved to be able to remove some of the HDD cages like the Define Mini IIRC.


----------



## F4ze0ne

Fellow Arc Midi user here!









I've read through most of the thread pages and I see a lot of great work on these cases! Mine is still a work in progress, but I'm getting some really great ideas from this thread. Keep it up!

Thanks!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F4ze0ne*
> 
> Fellow Arc Midi user here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've read through most of the thread pages and I see a lot of great work on these cases! Mine is still a work in progress, but I'm getting some really great ideas from this thread. Keep it up!
> 
> Thanks!


You should get a nice build log going of your progress, we love those here


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

I forgot to ask, has anyone changed the LED on the Design R3? I have the red LED with the white case and I just can't get over how it feels like the case is in error mode or something is wrong . . .

Seriously look at lots of electronics and I don't think red is a normal color for proper functioning. I'd love it to be purple - even bright white would have been OK. I looked at it and it appear the LED power wires are soldered in but I don't see anything that can be removed.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> The rubber screws work great, only problem is when you have a flat case where the can screws go, then you have these rubber bumps sticking out.
> I'm using the rubber screws on mt Core 1000 since it has little indents where your screws go and looks and sounds great.


I just put them in last night, work pretty well - top of the case still vibes a tad with them - but I nearly solved that by hitting the fan with a Noctua LNA adaper









As for the rubber bumps, those don't bother me it's the inside - now I've got like 1" rubber screws protruding from my top exhaust fan (inside the case).
I'm thinking of just snipping them, but that essentially means it's a one-time use kinda thing - would have to get some extras just in case.


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> ^ Some of your comments sorta applies to most cases on the market lol.
> I agree with some of them though, like the rubber gromets which were a huge hassle to keep them on.
> But do take note, that the R3 is considered cheap tbh. So stuff like high quality materials for the door, and better fan controllers, will cause the price to jack up and personally, Fractal makes very good brush aluminium knockoffs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think various colors will not fit the R3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant imagine such a professional looking case being anything other than black and white. Gray probably.
> Apart from that, nice review
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would have given the same score.
> My gripes would be too little space behind the mobo tray to hide the cables, the blue power LED is quite bright, and would have loved to be able to remove some of the HDD cages like the Define Mini IIRC.


Maybe they could make a limited edition case with lots of those features and charge more? I think the case is def. worth more than its $99 price tag, I would have probably been OK paying $150 knowing what I know now. I've paid $80 for cases that worth barely worth $15 and they took my blood when I put hardware into them. I think lots of the Antec cases are good but also use plastic doors, I don't get it, is metal hard to put on a door or does the hinge part add lots to the cost? I've read professional reviewers that complain about nice cases when the door is plastic. Hey I'm just in search of the perfect case and I'm shocked and how far away so many vendors are from making one. Fractal Design, I believe, could come close to doing it and if it raises the cost so be it. Have you seen some of the crazy prices out there for some fugly cases????

Silverstone Temjin ATX full tower = $659 ? ? ? ? ?
Lian Li ATX full tower = $500 ? ? ? ?
Thermaltake Level 10 = $369 ? ? ?


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevman17*
> 
> Here is my Fractal Design Define-XL:


Has anyone tried the Scythe Kaze Master II fan controller on that case with the door??? It has retractable knobs!!!


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

I just thought of the ultimate feature for the perfect case, you guys tell me what you think.

A fan controller that is wireless - like a small LCD picture frame that you can have just sit on your desk. Why not? The fan controller would be inside the case like normal but just have a transmitter/receiver that sends/receives control and info signals.

From what I've seen on here you guys are fond of your fan controllers and some of you mount them inside your case (which would be inconvenient for control) and I bet a lot of you don't want to mount one on a 5.25" drive bay.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoddo2KX2*
> 
> I just thought of the ultimate feature for the perfect case, you guys tell me what you think.
> A fan controller that is wireless - like a small LCD picture frame that you can have just sit on your desk. Why not? The fan controller would be inside the case like normal but just have a transmitter/receiver that sends/receives control and info signals.
> From what I've seen on here you guys are fond of your fan controllers and some of you mount them inside your case (which would be inconvenient for control) and I bet a lot of you don't want to mount one on a 5.25" drive bay.


Google "NZXT Sentry LXE" and "Bitfenix Recon"


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoddo2KX2*
> 
> Has anyone tried the Scythe Kaze Master II fan controller on that case with the door??? It has retractable knobs!!!


Just reminded me, the newer Scythe controllers are awesome.


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Google "NZXT Sentry LXE" and "Bitfenix Recon"


I looked at the NZXT Sentry LXE and I think it would be perfect if it were wireless but oddly its just an external fan controller - you run a cable from a PCI card to the external controller. I think Bitfenix has some interesting ideas but controlling fans from your smartphone? Really who wants to do that? Why not just a wireless controller? I see they have the app that can run on any browser which is cool but sometimes you want a hardware device instead of having to fire up another applet. I mean do you want to walk into the bathroom with your smartphone in order to turn on the water faucet cause there is an applet for that? The concept seems cool but is it practical?


----------



## Blizlake

Lol I'd still use the faucet manually, but I'd still have the option to control it via smartphone (for whatever reason). And I do walk in the bathroom with my smartphone







not sure that's the perfect comparison though.

The thing is that you can use it like a regular controller but you have the option to control the fans with your phone/tablet/pc, which I personally think is a great idea. I mean I have my phone next to my pc 90% of the time I'm home but even if I didnt have a smartphone, I could still easily control the fans via the website/program (whichever it'll be). And honestly, I have so much stuff on my desk already that an external fan controller is a no-no.

But really, to each his own. Unfortunately I dont think there is such a thing available as a wireless fan controller, so those are likely as close as you'll get.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Here's mine


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine


What uve done with your fractal arc midi, is exactly what i want to do to mine! awesome job









Ps. im pretty jealous


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Lol I'd still use the faucet manually, but I'd still have the option to control it via smartphone (for whatever reason). And I do walk in the bathroom with my smartphone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not sure that's the perfect comparison though.
> The thing is that you can use it like a regular controller but you have the option to control the fans with your phone/tablet/pc, which I personally think is a great idea. I mean I have my phone next to my pc 90% of the time I'm home but even if I didnt have a smartphone, I could still easily control the fans via the website/program (whichever it'll be). And honestly, I have so much stuff on my desk already that an external fan controller is a no-no.
> But really, to each his own. Unfortunately I dont think there is such a thing available as a wireless fan controller, so those are likely as close as you'll get.


Honestly, I'm not sure why a fan controller is preferable to getting PWM fans, connecting them to the MB, and allowing the MB to control them dynamically based on MB temp sensors.

We use a similar concept to control most heating/cooling devices in the real world. We don't manually set our home furnace or central air conditioning on 50% or 80% and then tweak it as the temperature outside changes. We set a temperature on a thermostat and let that device control the heating/cooling system to achieve that desired temp. That's also the way most of us control our CPU cooler fans...so why should case fans be any different?

I understand that you may achieve cooling efficiencies by setting different case fans to different speeds, but that's an efficiency gained at the expense of automated control for most folks with fan controllers.

I have a MB that has three 4-pin chassis fan headers and software that allows me to adjust fan speed by creating a curve on an XY graph, where Y is percent fan speed and X is MB temp...just as it allows me to do the same for my CPU cooler's PWM fans. I can set it up in Windows once and then ignore it. They speed up as necessary...and slow down when the system is idle. The result is that my system is fairly cool under load, very quiet when idle, and I am not constantly screwing with it.

Am I missing something?


----------



## Blizlake

I dont know about others, but I hate it when rpm goes up and down when doing something like rendering. Had a few vipers on my system, connected to mobo, but after I while I got fed up with it and got a fan controller. Dialled the fans up when I started gaming or rendering and down when I went to sleep or did something light.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I dont know about others, but I hate it when rpm goes up and down when doing something like rendering. Had a few vipers on my system, connected to mobo, but after I while I got fed up with it and got a fan controller. Dialled the fans up when I started gaming or rendering and down when I went to sleep or did something light.


I have the curve for mine set such that they stay around 800 RPM from system idle through moderate activity, and I don't hear them at that speed. When I am gaming or performing some other extremely demanding computational task, they kick up higher (automatically), but are pretty much drowned out by my GPU (or CPU) fans...which are also automatically controlled based on load/temp.

Personally, I just don't want to be screwing with knobs all of the time...and given that most folks have a CPU cooler and GPU cooler with fans that are dynamically controlled based on temperature, I just don't get why they want to take on manual control of the case fans. Oh well, to each his own.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

I love my fan controller and being able to alter fan speed myself. Never go back to running without it


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I dont know about others, but I hate it when rpm goes up and down when doing something like rendering. Had a few vipers on my system, connected to mobo, but after I while I got fed up with it and got a fan controller. Dialled the fans up when I started gaming or rendering and down when I went to sleep or did something light.


That's exactly why I got mine. My ears were very sensitive to changes in speed.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That's exactly why I got mine. My ears were very sensitive to changes in speed.


And these changes are more pronounced than those of your temp-controlled CPU and GPU fans? If so, I think that you need new case fans.









Seriously though, my case fans are far quieter than my GPU and CPU fans...and those fans are no slouches either. I have CM XtraFlos on my CPU and a TwinFrozr III cooling system on my GPU. The entire system is very quiet from idle to moderate usage with no noticeable fan variation.

I suppose that I am spoiled by my Gene-Z MB and the software that allows me to setup these RPM curves for the CPU and case fans. The case fans' RPM stays constant for minor variations in temperature and only increases when things are getting very warm...and even then they ramp up very slowly.

Do you folks put your CPU fans on your fan controller? I can't imagine that you would...but when those CPU cooler fans automatically kick up higher due to increased CPU temp, don't you also want increased air flow coming into the case to ensure that the cooler's input air is as cool as possible? Ditto GPU.

Heck, quite often I am not even near my system when something fires off that increases load. It could be a scheduled job, a server process, or me accessing it remotely. Who spins the knob then?









I really find the usage of controllers to be very curious. It's supposedly a power user thing. That said, it is the opposite in many other environments. Example - cars essentially had fan controllers for AC and heat for most of their history. You set the temp and fan speed manually and then adjusted as necessary. Luxury higher-end (i.e., more sophisticated) cars came along and allowed the driver (and perhaps passenger) to set a desired temperature...and then the vehicle would adjust the system as necessary to meet these target temps. A fan controller seems like a step backwards to me...especially when one factors in that CPU, GPU, and PSU fans in the same case are dynamically controlled based on temp.

Oh well, different strokes. One size never fits all.










cheers,
Scuba


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That's exactly why I got mine. My ears were very sensitive to changes in speed.
> 
> 
> 
> And these changes are more pronounced than those of your temp-controlled CPU and GPU fans? If so, I think that you need new case fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though, my case fans are far quieter than my GPU and CPU fans...and those fans are no slouches either. I have CM XtraFlos on my CPU and a TwinFrozr III cooling system on my GPU. The entire system is very quiet from idle to moderate usage with no noticeable fan variation.
> 
> I suppose that I am spoiled by my Gene-Z MB and the software that allows me to setup these RPM curves for the CPU and case fans. The case fans' RPM stays constant for minor variations in temperature and only increases when things are getting very warm...and even then they ramp up very slowly.
> 
> Do you folks put your CPU fans on your fan controller? I can't imagine that you would...but when those CPU cooler fans automatically kick up higher due to increased CPU temp, don't you also want increased air flow coming into the case to ensure that the cooler's input air is as cool as possible? Ditto GPU.
> 
> Heck, quite often I am not even near my system when something fires off that increases load. It could be a scheduled job, a server process, or me accessing it remotely. Who spins the knob then?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really find the usage of controllers to be very curious. It's supposedly a power user thing. That said, it is the opposite in many other environments. Example - cars essentially had fan controllers for AC and heat for most of their history. You set the temp and fan speed manually and then adjusted as necessary. Luxury higher-end (i.e., more sophisticated) cars came along and allowed the driver (and perhaps passenger) to set a desired temperature...and then the vehicle would adjust the system as necessary to meet these target temps. A fan controller seems like a step backwards to me...especially when one factors in that CPU, GPU, and PSU fans in the same case are dynamically controlled based on temp.
> 
> Oh well, different strokes. One size never fits all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers,
> Scuba
Click to expand...

My CPU has always been cooled by after-market cooler with at least one 120 mm fan connected to my fan controller and my GPU has a VF3000A cooler on it that also uses a 3-pin fan connector that requires being plugged in to the motherboard or a fan controller.

I also have mostly AP-15's or medium speed Yate's now so those are connected to Molex anyway and always at 100% and still nice and quiet.

My mini USB aquarium's water circulating is louder then both of my rigs which are less and 4 ft form my head.

As for your car comment, I currently have a car that came with a temperature based system where you set the temperature and it adjusts automatically, I hated it because I am constantly switching between city and highway on my drive to work (40 km/h and 100 km/h) and the built-in auto adjustment doesn't kick in fast enough, then over-compensates when I'm slowing back down and the change in cabin temperature was very noticeable, about 2-3 degrees.

So I actually went to the scrap yard and got the manual adjustable climate control module and installed it.

As you said though, most regular users probably would never benefit from a fan controller and are better off with auto adjusting, but power-users that seek control would almost never go without fan control.

The alternative though is finding a fan that you can set to a constant speed from your motherboard and not need to adjust it, in the same sense a water cooling pump as well.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> *1*
> I suppose that I am spoiled by my Gene-Z MB and the software that allows me to setup these RPM curves for the CPU and case fans. The case fans' RPM stays constant for minor variations in temperature and only increases when things are getting very warm...and even then they ramp up very slowly.
> *2*
> Do you folks put your CPU fans on your fan controller? I can't imagine that you would...but when those CPU cooler fans automatically kick up higher due to increased CPU temp, don't you also want increased air flow coming into the case to ensure that the cooler's input air is as cool as possible? Ditto GPU.
> *3*
> Heck, quite often I am not even near my system when something fires off that increases load. It could be a scheduled job, a server process, or me accessing it remotely. Who spins the knob then?


1. I had pretty much the same feature too, didnt work as well as msi AB's gpu fan profile did for some reason.
2. You can count on it. Every fan in my case was akasa viper, apart from the gpu fans. And the 180mm AP's after I switched over to FT02. See 3 for moar.
3. Indeed. For example, such a thing can happen while one sleeps. Don't want the fan to ramp up and wake me up. Even if something were to start up and use the cpu, it's not like it's going to fry or anything. Idles at high 30's and goes to 50c or a few mins of stress, so what? So nobody will be spinning the knob 'cause there's no need to.

And on a side note, my controller didnt have knobs. It had sliders


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> And these changes are more pronounced than those of your temp-controlled CPU and GPU fans?
> Do you folks put your CPU fans on your fan controller? I can't imagine that you would...
> 
> Scuba


There are many of us , who's builds revolve around creating the lowest levels of noise that could possibly be obtained. That "niche" market has been addressed with several Antec model cases dating back 5-7 years ago. Ad the fact that Mfg's have consistently improved fan technology to reach low noise levels never seen in the past. Now we add to this equation , the manuall fan controller. And, with several CPU coolers utilizing 2 and even three fans.....I'd say the ability to manual control the CPU's fans is no less critical than intake and exaust case fans. The onboard
mobo headers have greatly improved over the years, but can be extremly problematic and in some cases confusing. The risk factor of going total manual, can be confidently eliminated with the many temp reading outputted software proggies. Because some of the better "top tier" air coolers
can be close to running almost fanless, there's gonna be times that running CPU fans at 400-700 is absolutly reasonable and totally safe. Combining that control with the addition of operating all the case fans at rediccolous low sppeds.....creates db levels that produce near total silent. When we need to put the pedal to the metal arrises ,a simple twist of 4-5-6-7 fans knobs immediatly gives us the chill required to handle whatever high intensity graphics thrown in their direction.
For nearing 10 years now, controllers of some type have been in my every machine. Being able to do nothing but power surfing yields a sound level I defy you to hear at just several feet. That ability alone pushes us "quiet freeks" to imbrace the hardware that can 100% make it all come to fuition....the simple fan controller.

Fractal is one fine fine case , and I have virtually nothing negitive to comment about the case itself.
When I purchased my Fractal Mini.......that's what I bought......a case. The supplied fans and controller were thrown in there for the added "goodie" effect. Neither product could ever be classified as quality goods.....hence the immedite removal and replacement with fans and controllers which meet the demands of us noise freaks. IMO, why not compliment a kick ass case with equally kick ass fans and controllers. That combination can never be as effective as onboard fan controllers. One day they may be able to.......but at this current time, there's plenty more development to be done for absolute controllability. So yes, there's plenty reasons to not utilize onboard headers........even the CPU


----------



## tantric

hello!
fractal design core 1000 custom front panel


----------



## csm725

Looks very nice.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tantric*
> 
> hello!
> fractal design core 1000 custom front panel


Do you have a build log?
I really love it!


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tantric*
> 
> hello!
> fractal design core 1000 custom front panel


Sweet ! How did you accomplish that?


----------



## hamzta09

So anyone with a Define R3 and a non-modular PSU? Like a TX650 or similar with ~4-5 harddrives?

I wish to see your cable management. My main issues are the cables going to the HDDs (on the back), SATA cables and the 24Pin PSU cable which is too fat to hide behind the backplate.


----------



## gceclifton

My 24 pin went back there... but then, my PSU is modular so there wasn't much else back there


----------



## hamzta09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> My 24 pin went back there... but then, my PSU is modular so there wasn't much else back there


DId you plug it through the tiny hole at the bottom of the case (to the backside) and then through one of the holes with rubber things on em? Which one?


----------



## gceclifton

Tadaaa


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tantric*
> 
> hello!
> fractal design core 1000 custom front panel


Absolutely beautiful. Nice job!


----------



## drka0tic

That front is sweet!


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's mine


Looks amazing! Great job. Did you buy a window kit? I really want to do the mod, but not sure what size to get.


----------



## staryoshi

The picture of that front panel makes my eyes go buggy  I'm sure it looks sharp in person


----------



## mablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> Tadaaa


Is it a good idea to have the HDD trays left in the case or taken out? From an airflow point of view.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mablo*
> 
> Is it a good idea to have the HDD trays left in the case or taken out? From an airflow point of view.


if you aren't using them, pull them...and even better to remove the upper drive chassis if you can...but the R3 doesn't have a removable upper drive chassis.. No idea why. The XL, Mini, and both Arcs do. Seems odd.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tantric*
> 
> hello!
> fractal design core 1000 custom front panel


Amazing. I want one.


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> 3. Indeed. For example, such a thing can happen while one sleeps. Don't want the fan to ramp up and wake me up. Even if something were to start up and use the cpu, it's not like it's going to fry or anything. Idles at high 30's and goes to 50c or a few mins of stress, so what? So nobody will be spinning the knob 'cause there's no need to.
> And on a side note, my controller didnt have knobs. It had sliders


I've had the exact thing happen a few times on a couple different computers. Once I remember sleeping and I was like "WTeF is that fan noise", I come out and the graphic card fan was going crazy as the computer sat in the BIOS after a reboot (it was just a automatic reboot from automatic windows updates also). Besides those of us that love computers, do you really want Microsoft or someone else deciding what they define 'silence' as for everyone???

I guess there is just something to be said about having some actual control, if the automation works perfectly great but . . .

Like my old Buick - it had automatic headlights - would come on in the dark and turn off automatically. Years ago I used to get people yelling at me "you left your lights on" in a parking lot a lot. Also, as odd as it may seem there was no way to flash your headlights at someone.


----------



## tantric

Quote:


> Sweet ! How did you accomplish that?


sorry for the late reply. they're made out of laser cut acrylic pieces.


----------



## tantric

_but wait there's more







_


----------



## TwentyCent

Fresh as hell, superb man!


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tantric*
> 
> _but wait there's more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _


ZOMG! Do you sell the custom fronts? This would look amazing in my home theater setup.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

BTW, how did you paint/dye it?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tantric*
> 
> hello!
> fractal design core 1000 custom front panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow! Amazing!


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Looks amazing! Great job. Did you buy a window kit? I really want to do the mod, but not sure what size to get.


I cut the window by myself









The acrylic I used is 12 inch by 18inch, obviously I needed to cut some part off as well. I recommend you make one with rounded edges as it just looked weird with sharp edges.


----------



## drka0tic

Cool. Thanks. I agree, a squared-off rectangular window wouldn't match the case.


----------



## Hamy144

Hi
I have the opportunity to buy a "damaged" fractal design XL. is it worth it? how well designed are these things?
When i say damaged the doors dont line up and there are a few dents but nothing too major


----------



## adi518

Can you sell this piece in black/white?


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Hi
> I have the opportunity to buy a "damaged" fractal design XL. is it worth it? how well designed are these things?
> When i say damaged the doors dont line up and there are a few dents but nothing too major


Up to whether you can live with the dents, and if the price is right.


----------



## F4ze0ne

I'm very impressed with the GPU temps in this Arc Midi case!










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Up to whether you can live with the dents, and if the price is right.


Definitely the right price and was thinking with some precision tools (hammer) I could fix the dents but I'm asking is it a good case?


----------



## 271973

You're probably asking the wrong crowd - I imagine most people following this thread would be big fans of Fractal. But they're generally well regarded and I haven't heard anything bad about that case in particular.

What price is it being offered at?


----------



## F4ze0ne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Definitely the right price and was thinking with some precision tools (hammer) I could fix the dents but I'm asking is it a good case?


I can't speak for the Define XL, but the build quality is pretty good on my Arc Midi (I'd think the XL would be as well). I feel it's worth the price I paid new. My only gripe is the intake filters are hard to clean and the grill feels a little cheaply mounted.

I've already got some paint chips on the case in different areas, so you might want to be be careful hitting the dents out.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> You're probably asking the wrong crowd - I imagine most people following this thread would be big fans of Fractal. But they're generally well regarded and I haven't heard anything bad about that case in particular.
> What price is it being offered at?


Well £40 but i think i can get it down a bit more but i think its a steal
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F4ze0ne*
> 
> I can't speak for the Define XL, but the build quality is pretty good on my Arc Midi (I'd think the XL would be as well). I feel it's worth the price I paid new. My only gripe is the intake filters are hard to clean and the grill feels a little cheaply mounted.
> I've already got some paint chips on the case in different areas, so you might want to be be careful hitting the dents out.


Ive been looking at it and there are only small dents on the back panel
Thanks for your input i think ill take it and try to fix and sell on make a few £££


----------



## sloppyjoe123

I have the R3, closest thing to the XL. And I have to admit, it is made of extremely high quality, am suprised at the amount of noise dampening material they used tbh. The door is nice, the fans are quite bad tbh, but they work tho a tad noisy.

But, if you are thinking of buying that case and selling it, it might be a bad idea, as there really isnt a huge market for an XL at the moment, which is probably why the seller is selling it at that price, albeit the damage the case sustained.


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> I have the R3, closest thing to the XL. And I have to admit, it is made of extremely high quality, am suprised at the amount of noise dampening material they used tbh. The door is nice, the fans are quite bad tbh, but they work tho a tad noisy.
> But, if you are thinking of buying that case and selling it, it might be a bad idea, as there really isnt a huge market for an XL at the moment, which is probably why the seller is selling it at that price, albeit the damage the case sustained.


Plus unless you are selling it locally shipping will kill any attempted profit - its a heavy case. But, keep in mind computer parts even unopened ones sold by individuals often only command 50% of original cost. Keep those in mind if you're only profit motivated. Now if, however, you are planning on modding it and creating a work of art like so many on this board then that could be a profit making venture.


----------



## tantric

update on our little project.

-installed a removable 3.5 drive cage on the core 1000


twins


----------



## sloppyjoe123

^ Now, THAT is worth selling.

We need a step-by-step guide for that


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoddo2KX2*
> 
> Plus unless you are selling it locally shipping will kill any attempted profit - its a heavy case. But, keep in mind computer parts even unopened ones sold by individuals often only command 50% of original cost. Keep those in mind if you're only profit motivated. Now if, however, you are planning on modding it and creating a work of art like so many on this board then that could be a profit making venture.


Got it for £38 shipped which i think is a steal so i am going to mod it not at the moment as im working on two at the moment but in the future definitely but im not sure if im going to sell it or not ill see once it arrives


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Got it for £38 shipped which i think is a steal so i am going to mod it not at the moment as im working on two at the moment but in the future definitely but im not sure if im going to sell it or not ill see once it arrives


You should turn it into a Fractal bed for your dog. Could have removable dog toy drawer and dog bone tray also. Also, could have heated water system too.


----------



## Andrew Colvin

My new Fractal Define XL 14tb Unraid Server


----------



## SkySpy89

Can I use Fan Controller from Fractal Design Midi for 2 AeroCool Shark 140mm Blue LED Fan.

In that case I will connect FD fans direct to PSU.

Fractal Desing 140mm (3 of them are already connected to fan controler)
Power: 2.4 W +/- 10%

AeroCool Shark 140mm (will remove all 3 FD fans from controller and connect 2 of these)
Power: 4.3W


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkySpy89*
> 
> Can I use Fan Controller from Fractal Design Midi for 2 AeroCool Shark 140mm Blue LED Fan.


Yes, im doing that as we speak


----------



## SkySpy89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Yes, im doing that as we speak


Are you 100% sure?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkySpy89*
> 
> Are you 100% sure?


I've heard that they are not reliable above about 10watts. Two of those fans are slightly below 9w, so it "should" be fine.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkySpy89*
> 
> Are you 100% sure?


Well its working for me and has been for months now. I also have 2 gelid wings on my CPU cooler conected to the controller using a Y splitter. So im running 4 fans from it with an adaptor and have had no issues at all. However iv heard some bad reports about the controller so it seems to be a hit or a miss with it.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoddo2KX2*
> 
> You should turn it into a Fractal bed for your dog. Could have removable dog toy drawer and dog bone tray also. Also, could have heated water system too.


That is genius but i dont think he would fit even if i removed the partition but its an inventive idea


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Well its working for me and has been for months now. I also have 2 gelid wings on my CPU cooler conected to the controller using a Y splitter. So im running 4 fans from it with an adaptor and have had no issues at all. However iv heard some bad reports about the controller so it seems to be a hit or a miss with it.


Mine fried with just the three standard Fractal fans...so go figure. They sent out a replacement pretty quickly though, but it's still in the packaging. I switched to PWM fans.


----------



## Stoddo2KX2

For anyone interested I just finished my new computer build w the Fractal Design R3 in White and it looks great and sounds like . . . nothing. It took forever since I changed some fans and then bought the Scythe Kaze Master II fan controller. The Scythe Kaze Master II fan controller is very cool although the mount with the case wasn't perfect - it has retractable buttons and fits fine behind the door of the Fractal R3 case. I guess in some ways I'm happy I have the door since it doesn't come in white and optical drives in white are also not easy to find.

a downside to those fan controllers is the number of extra cables it adds to your build though. The Scythes Kaze II also came with 4 temperature sensor cables also - very long and you could add them easily to any part of your case you wanted - I only installed one by the CPU heatsink.

I have to say though the noise footprint of this case as opposed to the Antec P182 is very notable - I can't hear hardly anything from the Fractal even when my video card fan ramps up.


----------



## [email protected]

Totally need some incredible ideas or they do service for Antec 1200 cases?


----------



## sledge

Hey guys, I'm currently looking at the Fractal Design Define XL case. I'm getting tired of my Antec Twelve Hundred and it's LED lighting, and the fact that it just cannot suppress any noise, and it is a pain in the butt to clean.

How is the Define XL? Does it have good noise suppression? Is it easy to clean? Also, how is the case's airflow? Is the cable management easy? And is there room to work with inside?

Thanks.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sledge*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm currently looking at the Fractal Design Define XL case. I'm getting tired of my Antec Twelve Hundred and it's LED lighting, and the fact that it just cannot suppress any noise, and it is a pain in the butt to clean.
> How is the Define XL? Does it have good noise suppression? Is it easy to clean? Also, how is the case's airflow? Is the cable management easy? And is there room to work with inside?
> Thanks.


Mine is being delivered at around 5pm gmt today so ill post some pics


----------



## Hamy144

Anyway as promised pics of my new "damaged" fractal design define XL




Beside my Gigabyte sumo 5112 case mod

This is the highest quality case i have ever owned! the quality of the door that weight a tonne each is astounding and ive heard they are very well sound proofed. well the proof of the pudding is in the eating so ill see how it performs and report back


----------



## Shrak

Funny, my Define XL came with similar damage (not quite as bad though ), to the exact same spot. Was bought new though, and I just took a rubber malet and hammered it back then touched it up with a little spray paint as to not allow it to rust.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Funny, my Define XL came with similar damage (not quite as bad though ), to the exact same spot. Was bought new though, and I just took a rubber malet and hammered it back then touched it up with a little spray paint as to not allow it to rust.


WOW you bought it new!
i paid £38 for it and its new but was advertised as damaged. Bargain


----------



## adi518

That's why it's best to buy these from a local store. Risking dealing with return and all that crap is not worth it, of course unless that is your sole option.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That's why it's best to buy these from a local store. Risking dealing with return and all that crap is not worth it, of course unless that is your sole option.


Agree to a certain point. *-but-* You ain't gonna find to many brick and mortar stores
that have even heard of Fractal. So, the local store thing's just not an option.

On the other hand, Newegg replaces product on their dime [free return shipping]
Then of course, the price is usually cheaper and you pay no taxes. And you do
get free shipping on allot of products.

I do indeed believe in giving my local retailer, Microcenter all the business they deserve, when priced competitively


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Agree to a certain point. *-but-* You ain't gonna find to many brick and mortar stores
> that have even heard of Fractal. So, the local store thing's just not an option.
> On the other hand, Newegg replaces product on their dime [free return shipping]
> Then of course, the price is usually cheaper and you pay no taxes. And you do
> get free shipping on allot of products.
> I do indeed believe in giving my local retailer, Microcenter all the business they deserve, when priced competitively


FYI, the Micro Center near me is now carrying some Fractal cases...and the prices are good....at times, lower than NewEgg.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> FYI, the Micro Center near me is *now carrying some Fractal cases*...and the prices are good....at times, lower than NewEgg.


Good to know.

Haven't been in since I picked up my 2500 for $40 less than Newegg 4 months ago


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That's why it's best to buy these from a local store. Risking dealing with return and all that crap is not worth it, of course unless that is your sole option.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> FYI, the Micro Center near me is now carrying some Fractal cases...and the prices are good....at times, lower than NewEgg.


Quote:


> Scuba Steve in VA
> 
> Joined: Apr 2011
> Location: Northern Virginia


^however north he is is about the closest microcenter to me that I know of, lol. Not exactly worth the money in gas to get there.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> ^however north he is is about the closest microcenter to me that I know of, lol. Not exactly worth the money in gas to get there.


So I guess, trying to convince you to visit our Cleveland store is out of the question ?
Such a lovely place


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> So I guess, trying to convince you to visit our Cleveland store is out of the question ?
> Such a lovely place


Went to the Cincinnati one last year when I was visiting those parts


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Went to the Cincinnati one last year when I was visiting those parts


and stayed at a Holiday Inn Express


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> and stayed at a Holiday Inn Express


And stayed at my gf's parents


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Scuba Steve in VA
> Joined: Apr 2011
> Location: Northern Virginia
> 
> 
> 
> ^however north he is is about the closest microcenter to me that I know of, lol. Not exactly worth the money in gas to get there.
Click to expand...

Yep, the People's Republic of Fairfax. A good four hours north.









Of course, you are closer to the Fry's in Georgia.


----------



## KuuFA

Can I be Apart of the club now....


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Finally had time to redo cable management on my Arc Midi after my graphics card failed








Looking pretty neat now. Pictures will be uploaded tomorrow.
I used Bitfenix extensions but I hope to sleeve my psu very soon. Cable management was a pain due to these but the rear panel shuts cleanly.
I cut the grill out of the front to show off the fans and also cut the plastic grill in the roof to match.
I am hoping to cut a window in the side panel soon and I've also be thinking about watercooling it but funds are low due to getting married in may.
Once that and my knee op are out of the way I'll most likely watercool it and finish my planned mods.
When the time comes I'll do a build log and then everyone can have a peek at it.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Front of my case is finally done. Sorry for the amature photography. I'll borrow someones camera(as these were taken on my phone) and get some decent pics in daylight.

The only thing left for the outside is my window mod.






Mod's iv done:
Removed the dust filters and plastic to show off the fans.
Added some thin plastic so that only the fan blades show
Stealthed Optical Drive

With my Kaze Master back from RMA i think the front is finally done


----------



## adi518

to match in with the black pearl r3 white brackets I painted my xfi bracket white as well:


----------



## sledge

Anyone have a Corsair H100 in a Define XL case? I'm thinking about picking up on of these, but after looking at some reviews, I don't know if it will fit or not.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

As promised. Not the best quality (iphone 4) but didn't have a decent camera to hand.





Just need to find someone to make me a red HX850 sticker, any recommendations?


----------



## Jcoffin1981

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> I have the curve for mine set such that they stay around 800 RPM from system idle through moderate activity, and I don't hear them at that speed. When I am gaming or performing some other extremely demanding computational task, they kick up higher (automatically), but are pretty much drowned out by my GPU (or CPU) fans...which are also automatically controlled based on load/temp.
> Personally, I just don't want to be screwing with knobs all of the time...and given that most folks have a CPU cooler and GPU cooler with fans that are dynamically controlled based on temperature, I just don't get why they want to take on manual control of the case fans. Oh well, to each his own.


Yeah I used to let the mobo dynamically control the fan speed, bet eventually I ran out of fan headers. Also, I probably have 4 different fan models. What I was most concerned with is speed at idle, but it seemed just about impossible to get them all to idle at the ideal speed of 600-700. Some would be at 1000 and some at 500. The controller allowed me to further fine tune it. If I wanted to I could still hook 1 or 2 fans up to have them automatically changed and it would work well, but at the moment I am happy with it now.


----------



## macarule

Gone to water


----------



## azeller09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Gone to water


Sexy and clean


----------



## drka0tic

Hey guys...
The XSPC EX140 140mm rad is now available for purchase.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15076/ex-rad-354/XSPC_EX140_Single_140mm_Low_Profile_Split_Fin_Radiator.html

This should fit nicely in the front intake.


----------



## sledge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azeller09*
> 
> Sexy and clean


That is sick. What fan controller is that, by the way?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sledge*
> 
> That is sick. What fan controller is that, by the way?


NZXT Sentry 2


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Gone to water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! I love watching the evolution of your rig.


----------



## macarule

Thanks guys







i will be adding a rad to the front and a gpu block when i get the money


----------



## adi518

I've been thinking about water cooling my entire rig and I wonder...can I top-mount a 240mm rad on the r3? Or alternatively remove the hdd cage and mount the rad there somehow? My preference is keeping the top closed, I just like it better that way.


----------



## Fear Before

I just purchased a core 1000. Can't wait for it to get here


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> I just purchased a core 1000. Can't wait for it to get here


You're going to love it, and welcome to the forum


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> You're going to love it, and welcome to the forum


Thanks. I love your Core 1000


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> You're going to love it, and welcome to the forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I love your Core 1000
Click to expand...

Thanks, if you have any questions, feel free to post here or PM me


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I've been thinking about water cooling my entire rig and I wonder...can I top-mount a 240mm rad on the r3? Or alternatively remove the hdd cage and mount the rad there somehow? My preference is keeping the top closed, I just like it better that way.


When I put my R3 together I couldnt internally mount the top 240mm rad, if I remember correctly it might have been possible using the very thin fans that are made by Scythe but I was unable to source them at the time. Ended up mounting it externally and it came up ok.


----------



## macarule

awesome Watercooling set up Krahe what sort of temps are you getting?

PS. never heard back from you about them fans haha


----------



## Krahe

Hi Macarule, apoligies about the fans, (I did tell the wife to post them







) had xmas and dad's funeral to organise then was offered a construction job working between to sites in WA/QLD, back home in Melbourne now, hopefully for good, had enough of traveling for awhile, anyway they are still sitting here if you still need them mate.

Temps are pretty good GPU never exceeds 47° and the CPU at idle is 3° hotter than the ambient air temp in the case.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Hi Macarule, apoligies about the fans, (I did tell the wife to post them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) had xmas and dad's funeral to organise then was offered a construction job working between to sites in WA/QLD, back home in Melbourne now, hopefully for good, had enough of traveling for awhile, anyway they are still sitting here if you still need them mate.
> Temps are pretty good GPU never exceeds 47° and the CPU at idle is 3° hotter than the ambient air temp in the case.


if you wouldn't mind sending the 2 noise blockers that would be much appreciated!







ill PM you.
Wow im Jealous of the temps, mine sits at 10c above ambient and 67 load with a 240 rad just for my CPU


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> When I put my R3 together I couldnt internally mount the top 240mm rad, if I remember correctly it might have been possible using the very thin fans that are made by Scythe but I was unable to source them at the time. Ended up mounting it externally and it came up ok.





















However, I would like to avoid that piggyback look it gives it when mounted externally like that. I wanna keep it all inside. I know which Scythe fans you're talking about so it's a good idea.

How did you cut the hdd cage in half? I could certainly use half the amount. I hope they make it more sturdy and removable in the R4.


----------



## Krahe

Hi adi518, i just drilled the top and bottom rivets out (7/64 drill bit) then cut the sides in half with a 5" grinder, filed and sanded the cut edges down and respayed it satin black, which matched very well. I also drilled the halfway plate out and re riveted it, but that might have been for something else.

Beware though, once you watercool there is no turning back, its addictive and at times expensive


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Hi adi518, i just drilled the top and bottom rivets out (7/64 drill bit) then cut the sides in half with a 5" grinder, filed and sanded the cut edges down and respayed it satin black, which matched very well. I also drilled the halfway plate out and re riveted it, but that might have been for something else.
> 
> Beware though, once you watercool there is no turning back, its addictive and at times expensive


Awesome, I am planning on completely taking apart my case, but have yet to deal with rivets. Great to know what size bit to use now. What size rivets are you using to re-assemble the case?


----------



## Krahe

Axipher, I used 1/8 x 0.290 aluminium for the HDD cage, I would think they would be the same for the sides of the case as well. Do a search on google for your local hardware/electrical shops and you should be able to find black ones.
Btw, if you do a search for "rivets here on OCnet I'm pretty sure a member wrote a pretty comprehensive post on the best way to remove them, good luck with your project.

Krähe


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Axipher, I used 1/8 x 0.290 aluminium for the HDD cage, I would think they would be the same for the sides of the case as well. Do a search on google for your local hardware/electrical shops and you should be able to find black ones.
> Btw, if you do a search for "rivets here on OCnet I'm pretty sure a member wrote a pretty comprehensive post on the best way to remove them, good luck with your project.
> 
> Krähe


Thanks man, appreciate the info









Do you have a build log for your work?


----------



## adi518

damn rivets









thanks !


----------



## gceclifton

From Drop Box


From Drop Box


From Drop Box

Finally got it all back together. 49 rivets later!

I still need to sleeve my cables and get some black or white SATA cables. I did hide the orange and red ones behind the black but they are still visible!


----------



## Fear Before

According to my tracking number my case should be here tomorrow


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks man, appreciate the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a build log for your work?


No build log srry, always mean to but get carried away and forget to take pics lol


----------



## mswn

Hello, everyone. Seeing some amazing things here even in just the few pages I've managed to get through so far (*tantric*, I'm looking at you!). I'm getting ready to start my first build and have my case options narrowed down to the NZXT Source 210 Elite White or either the Design Mini or Arc Mini. I _think_ I can guess which direction will be more popular here (!), but just had a question: I already bought a Corsair TX650 PSU and was warned that the cables might be out of control for one of the Mini cases. Does anyone have any experience with that or something similar? Should it be all right (especially for a first-timer) or should I swallow the restock fee and look into a modular PSU?

Thanks for any input you may have. If the Fractal cases win, I imagine I'll be back here soon!


----------



## nagle3092

Could anyone tell me if there's enough space to mount 2 140mm fans in the front of the R3? I know you can't with the standard mounting system but if I left out the 120mm mounts and drilled holes in the frame would there be enough clearance from the hdd cage and width/height to fit them?


----------



## GeneO

I don;t know if anybody posted this or not. But FD has a case upgrade for USB 2,0 to USB 3.0 with a 20 pin connector.

I have a new MB that has the 20 pin but my case is a define r3 with USB 2.0. The upgrade kit was less than $10 at newegg. Well worth it I think. Kudos FD for thinking of us.


----------



## sectionsone

Hello everybody just show my FD Arc Mini









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!































With my corsair 800d








Please your comment


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Hello everybody just show my FD Arc Mini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my corsair 800d
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please your comment


pretty damn nice


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mswn*
> 
> Hello, everyone. Seeing some amazing things here even in just the few pages I've managed to get through so far (*tantric*, I'm looking at you!). I'm getting ready to start my first build and have my case options narrowed down to the NZXT Source 210 Elite White or either the Design Mini or Arc Mini. I _think_ I can guess which direction will be more popular here (!), but just had a question: I already bought a Corsair TX650 PSU and was warned that the cables might be out of control for one of the Mini cases. Does anyone have any experience with that or something similar? Should it be all right (especially for a first-timer) or should I swallow the restock fee and look into a modular PSU?
> Thanks for any input you may have. If the Fractal cases win, I imagine I'll be back here soon!


Personally I would get a modular, the fractals dont leave a great deal of room behind the MB (on the R3 at least), and whichever case you choose a modular PSU makes keeping the case inside clean and neat that much easier.


----------



## lurker2501

A small update to my KÜHLER H₂O 620. Now it's gonna be push-pull! Yay!


KÜHLER H₂O 620 update by fakehipsterz, on Flickr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Hello everybody just show my FD Arc Mini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my corsair 800d
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please your comment


1000w with a single gpu setup? you serious? nice work though.


----------



## bortoloj

Here is my Fractal Arc Mini =)


----------



## adridu59

Nice one...seems like an Alpenföhn cooler here.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just created this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1236612/cooler-to-replace-d14

Was wondering if you guys could help me decide.

Thanks.


----------



## bortoloj

yes it's an Alpenföhn Brocken, it really works (sorry for my english i'm french







)


----------



## Fear Before

Well my core 1000 came today. Got it built up but when I went to turn it on... Nothing. I really hope I didn't fry something. Not sure what else could be the problem


----------



## pioneerisloud

Alright guys....

Really wanting to join this club here soon.







One question though.

Can anybody confirm for me, 110% without a SINGLE doubt, that the Define R3 will hold a 240 / 280 rad up front, and a 240 or 280 up top? $110+ shipping is a lot to spend on a CHANCE that it will. I need to know absolutely without a doubt that it'll hold what I need it to.

Or the Arc Midi (the regular ATX one that's $100 on newegg). That case would work as well, but I would prefer the R3.


----------



## Fear Before

Forget my last comment! I got it going. Pics will up up tonight or tomorrow


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Well my core 1000 came today. Got it built up but when I went to turn it on... Nothing. I really hope I didn't fry something. Not sure what else could be the problem


I always do the following with a new build:


Take the MB out of the box and place it on the MB box
Drop in CPU
Apply thermal paste
Mount the cooler
Drop in one stick of RAM
Connect the PSU
Connect a monitor
Power it on and ensure that it POSTs. If it doesn't, swap the RAM stick with another and try again.

No case, no HDD, no DVD, no GPU, ...

It's a good way to ensure that the board works before sucking up the time to build.

My advice, try clearing the CMOS. If that doesn't work, disconnect the drives, pull all but one RAM stick, pull the GPU, and see if you can get it to POST.


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> I always do the following with a new build:
> 
> Take the MB out of the box and place it on the MB box
> Drop in CPU
> Apply thermal paste
> Mount the cooler
> Drop in one stick of RAM
> Connect the PSU
> Connect a monitor
> Power it on and ensure that it POSTs. If it doesn't, swap the RAM stick with another and try again.
> No case, no HDD, no DVD, no GPU, ...
> It's a good way to ensure that the board works before sucking up the time to build.
> My advice, try clearing the CMOS. If that doesn't work, disconnect the drives, pull all but one RAM stick, pull the GPU, and see if you can get it to POST.


Turns out I had the power/reset buttons mixed up. It's running good now. Thanks


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Alright guys....
> Really wanting to join this club here soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though.
> Can anybody confirm for me, 110% without a SINGLE doubt, that the Define R3 will hold a 240 / 280 rad up front, and a 240 or 280 up top? $110+ shipping is a lot to spend on a CHANCE that it will. I need to know absolutely without a doubt that it'll hold what I need it to.
> Or the Arc Midi (the regular ATX one that's $100 on newegg). That case would work as well, but I would prefer the R3.


I have an Arc Midi with 280 at front and 240 at top, don't know if you can do same with R3.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Alright guys....
> Really wanting to join this club here soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though.
> Can anybody confirm for me, 110% without a SINGLE doubt, that the Define R3 will hold a 240 / 280 rad up front, and a 240 or 280 up top? $110+ shipping is a lot to spend on a CHANCE that it will. I need to know absolutely without a doubt that it'll hold what I need it to.
> Or the Arc Midi (the regular ATX one that's $100 on newegg). That case would work as well, but I would prefer the R3.


I can 98.7% confirm that a 240/280 rad will NOT internally fit up top on R3. 240 front would be tight fit IIRC.
However on the Arc Midi, I can 120% confirm that you'll have no problems with 240 top and 280 front, as long as you're not planning on having a 80mm thick one up top. Not sure about 280 top though, 30mm one with regular fans should fit but I won't guarantee that one.


----------



## Zufushiki

Hi OCN!

This is my first post in here.









Want to show my Fractal Arc Midi case with Water cooling.

I have 280 radiator in front and 360 on top. i like to change pump and reseirvoir in future.

tell me what you like.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Alright guys....
> Really wanting to join this club here soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though.
> Can anybody confirm for me, 110% without a SINGLE doubt, that the Define R3 will hold a 240 / 280 rad up front, and a 240 or 280 up top? $110+ shipping is a lot to spend on a CHANCE that it will. I need to know absolutely without a doubt that it'll hold what I need it to.
> Or the Arc Midi (the regular ATX one that's $100 on newegg). That case would work as well, but I would prefer the R3.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Arc Midi with 280 at front and 240 at top, don't know if you can do same with R3.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Alright guys....
> Really wanting to join this club here soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One question though.
> Can anybody confirm for me, 110% without a SINGLE doubt, that the Define R3 will hold a 240 / 280 rad up front, and a 240 or 280 up top? $110+ shipping is a lot to spend on a CHANCE that it will. I need to know absolutely without a doubt that it'll hold what I need it to.
> Or the Arc Midi (the regular ATX one that's $100 on newegg). That case would work as well, but I would prefer the R3.
> 
> 
> 
> I can 98.7% confirm that a 240/280 rad will NOT internally fit up top on R3. 240 front would be tight fit IIRC.
> However on the Arc Midi, I can 120% confirm that you'll have no problems with 240 top and 280 front, as long as you're not planning on having a 80mm thick one up top. Not sure about 280 top though, 30mm one with regular fans should fit but I won't guarantee that one.
Click to expand...

What about dual 280's? I plan on using XSPC EX radiators, so they're not very thick at all. Also was going to use Yate Loon medium fans (authentic). Push on the front, pull on the top (so the rads are visible internally).

I could see myself using the Arc Midi.







Better than my Beta Evo, that's for sure.

I just want to make sure that I get the right case....one that will take these rads without too much hassle. Preferably just bolt in.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> What about dual 280's? I plan on using XSPC EX radiators, so they're not very thick at all. Also was going to use Yate Loon medium fans (authentic). Push on the front, pull on the top (so the rads are visible internally).
> I could see myself using the Arc Midi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better than my Beta Evo, that's for sure.
> I just want to make sure that I get the right case....one that will take these rads without too much hassle. Preferably just bolt in.


EX280 should be easy in front but it probably won't go to top unless you cut into 5.25" bays.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> What about dual 280's? I plan on using XSPC EX radiators, so they're not very thick at all. Also was going to use Yate Loon medium fans (authentic). Push on the front, pull on the top (so the rads are visible internally).
> I could see myself using the Arc Midi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better than my Beta Evo, that's for sure.
> I just want to make sure that I get the right case....one that will take these rads without too much hassle. Preferably just bolt in.
> 
> 
> 
> EX280 should be easy in front but it probably won't go to top unless you cut into 5.25" bays.
Click to expand...

Will the EX240 fit up top easily then, without cutting things?


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Will the EX240 fit up top easily then, without cutting things?


Yes, 240 is just bolt on job. Plenty of space for even a push pull setup with such slim rad.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Will the EX240 fit up top easily then, without cutting things?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, 240 is just bolt on job. Plenty of space for even a push pull setup with such slim rad.
Click to expand...

And an XSPC EX280 will bolt directly into the front? Nothing will be in the way of the barbs?


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> And an XSPC EX280 will bolt directly into the front?


Go on Steam.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> And an XSPC EX280 will bolt directly into the front?
> 
> 
> 
> Go on Steam.
Click to expand...

Give me a few minutes...gotta hook my main rig back up. Was testing something on my server.


----------



## Twoogle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zufushiki*
> 
> Hi OCN!
> This is my first post in here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Want to show my Fractal Arc Midi case with Water cooling.
> I have 280 radiator in front and 360 on top. i like to change pump and reseirvoir in future.
> tell me what you like.


Where did you put your Harddrive? I'm wanting to eventually do the same thing with my midi but I don't know where I would put my harddrive.


----------



## Zufushiki

I have 2 ssd drives behind, where are all wires.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> And an XSPC EX280 will bolt directly into the front? Nothing will be in the way of the barbs?


There are no built in mounting places for a rad in front, I'm still using just zip ties as you can see but it shouldn't be hard to build something that looks nicer. Then again even those zip ties work just fine.


----------



## macarule

EDIT: i swear im not stalking you.... ^^ but good ninja of my idea








i want to move my HDD cage a little to the left of the case and slip a 280mm rad in the front, shouldnt be to hard with a dremel and a drill


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> And an XSPC EX280 will bolt directly into the front? Nothing will be in the way of the barbs?
> 
> 
> 
> There are no built in mounting places for a rad in front, I'm still using just zip ties as you can see but it shouldn't be hard to build something that looks nicer. Then again even those zip ties work just fine.
Click to expand...

Taking your image, and modding my own plans into it the best I could...

Imagine I'm using the EX240 up top, and EX280 up front (bottom mounted barbs on the front). And the really sharp angles of tubing, are 90* rotary fittings.

Thoughts on this to cool an i7 3770k plus 7970 Tri Fire (7990 + 7970) or 7970 Crossfire if tri fire is too much:


----------



## mm67

Don't know if a 240 and 280 is enough to cool all that but everything should fit easily.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Don't know if a 240 and 280 is enough to cool all that but everything should fit easily.


Fine, 7970 Crossfire 2 way then.







I just wanted to avoid microstutter with crossfire. I'm at a high res, so the one card is barely cutting it as is (2560x1600).


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Fine, 7970 Crossfire 2 way then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just wanted to avoid microstutter with crossfire. I'm at a high res, so the one card is barely cutting it as is (2560x1600).


That should work just fine.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Imagine I'm using the EX240 up top, and EX280 up front (bottom mounted barbs on the front). And the really sharp angles of tubing, are 90* rotary fittings.
> Thoughts on this to cool an i7 3770k plus 7970 Tri Fire (7990 + 7970) or 7970 Crossfire if tri fire is too much:


3770k + CF7970 should be just fine, tri-fire wouldnt get that low temps but would likely still be fine. If I were you I'd go for thicker rads like mm67's top rad, if possible that is.

edit: and seems like someone over at overclockersUK managed to fit a 280 30mm rad up top, no pics but that's what he said.


----------



## cooper-noodles

hey guys, i'm new to the forums. need a little help, i want to get a fractal core 1000 for a new build but iv noticed the rear fan isn't 120mm. what i want to no is, is there enough clearance to maybe do a bit of modding and get a 120mm fan to fit?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Imagine I'm using the EX240 up top, and EX280 up front (bottom mounted barbs on the front). And the really sharp angles of tubing, are 90* rotary fittings.
> Thoughts on this to cool an i7 3770k plus 7970 Tri Fire (7990 + 7970) or 7970 Crossfire if tri fire is too much:
> 
> 
> 
> 3770k + CF7970 should be just fine, tri-fire wouldnt get that low temps but would likely still be fine. If I were you I'd go for thicker rads like mm67's top rad, if possible that is.
> 
> edit: and seems like someone over at overclockersUK managed to fit a 280 30mm rad up top, no pics but that's what he said.
Click to expand...

Just so long as my GPU's stay below about 65*C or less, and my CPU stays below Intel's recommended, I really don't care. I'm going water for noise purposes, with the cooling as an extra bonus.


----------



## Fear Before

Here's my core 1000. Still working on the cable management. Hard to hide all the cables on a psu when you only use half of them. Think my next upgrade will be a modular psu. So far I love this case. If anyone wants the specs just let me know.


----------



## csm725

Grabbing the R3 Black Pearl later today








I decided to replace the case fans with three of these:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49_1050&products_id=30931
Two front and one side, all 3 intake.
For now I will run with two front fans (the included ones) until I receive the fans I want








It'll be a couple of hours' work swapping everything over, but no big deal of course


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I decided to replace the case fans with three of these:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49_1050&products_id=30931
> Two front and one side, all 3 intake.


I'm willing to get the same fans for my Core 3000.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Here's my core 1000. Still working on the cable management. Hard to hide all the cables on a psu when you only use half of them. Think my next upgrade will be a modular psu. So far I love this case. If anyone wants the specs just let me know.


Is that a Dell motherboard?


----------



## csm725

Pic with name and timestamp for some pesky whiners.
*cough* pio *cough*








Building tomorrow since I need the rig today.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Made some changes to my Arc Mini since the last time that I posted a pic.


Removed the Fractal fans and fan controller
Added 3 Noiseblocker PWMs, wired to the 3 PWM headers on the MB...which is why I have one random wire zipped to the back of the case.








Added second CM Xtraflo 120mm as a pull on my CPU cooler



I'm really liking being able to setup temp vs RPM curves for the case fans...and she is far quieter at idle now. BTW, I now have two intake fans on the front rather than two exhaust...since:


I'd rather direct the air in through the filter rather than pull it in from wherever
I've seen data that shows that the rear exhaust just gets in the way of the airflow from higher RPM CPU cooler fans...at least with the 212, but your mileage may vary









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Made some changes to my Arc Mini since the last time that I posted a pic.
> 
> Removed the Fractal fans and fan controller
> Added 3 Noiseblocker PWMs, wired to the 3 PWM headers on the MB...which is why I have one random wire zipped to the back of the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added second CM Xtraflo 120mm as a pull on my CPU cooler
> 
> I'm really liking being able to setup temp vs RPM curves for the case fans...and she is far quieter at idle now. BTW, I now have two intake fans on the front rather than two exhaust...since:
> 
> I'd rather direct the air in through the filter rather than pull it in from wherever
> I've seen data that shows that the rear exhaust just gets in the way of the airflow from higher RPM CPU cooler fans...at least with the 212, but your mileage may vary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers,
> Scuba


Good build, nice cablemanegement...
I personly would move the top 120 to the back for following the airflow of the cpu-cooler








Which speeds are the noiseblockers running at?


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Is that a Dell motherboard?


No its a MSI H55M E-23


----------



## staryoshi

If they had a white Define Mini I would have gone for it. Instead I broke down and went for a Corsair 550D









The Arc Mini would make a good base for a project PC though, hmm...


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalDesign*
> 
> Good build, nice cablemanegement...
> I personly would move the top 120 to the back for following the airflow of the cpu-cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which speeds are the noiseblockers running at?


This thread has a lot of data about why that rear exhaust may actually hurt in some cooler fan configs...at least for the Hyper 212:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning

The fans are at around 900 RPM at idle....and are silent at that speed. They ramp up on this curve:


----------



## JDUB_68

I ordered the Fractal Arc Midi yesterday! I was annoyed at myself for placing the order on the weekend because it hasn't shipped yet.

I'll try and post some pics once its all set up.

Do people recommend the Corsair H100 for this case? I've only seen a few photos of people with the setup and it looks good but I just wanted to check.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> I ordered the Fractal Arc Midi yesterday! I was annoyed at myself for placing the order on the weekend because it hasn't shipped yet.
> I'll try and post some pics once its all set up.
> Do people recommend the Corsair H100 for this case? I've only seen a few photos of people with the setup and it looks good but I just wanted to check.


I mean its a good cooler that fits so I guess its recommended lol..


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> I ordered the Fractal Arc Midi yesterday! I was annoyed at myself for placing the order on the weekend because it hasn't shipped yet.
> I'll try and post some pics once its all set up.
> Do people recommend the Corsair H100 for this case? I've only seen a few photos of people with the setup and it looks good but I just wanted to check.
> 
> 
> 
> I mean its a good cooler that fits so I guess its recommended lol..
Click to expand...

But even the humongous Phanteks fits in the Arc Midi...
Just down to personal preference, if you dont want 2 pounds worth of metal hanging off your board, go with the H100


----------



## axipher

I think I'm going to rip my Core 1000 apart rivet by rivet and do the following:
- Modify the ODD area and front panel to allow a 240 mm rad, maybe a RX240 that I have
- Paint RAD, pump, and reservoir non-clear pieces red
- Sand blast all the black off of case (reason is below)
- Use an air brush with proper white paint and clear coat, no spray cans
- Prime and Re-paint front panel main plastic piece


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I think I'm going to rip my Core 1000 apart rivet by rivet and do the following:
> - Modify the ODD area and front panel to allow a 240 mm rad, maybe a RX240 that I have
> - Paint RAD, pump, and reservoir non-clear pieces red
> - Sand blast all the black off of case (reason is below)
> - Use an air brush with proper white paint and clear coat, no spray cans
> - Prime and Re-paint front panel main plastic piece


Wow thats a big job man but if you dio it right that would blow my mind








I´m also thinking about doing this with my R3 (only vutting the HDD cage out)


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalDesign*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I think I'm going to rip my Core 1000 apart rivet by rivet and do the following:
> - Modify the ODD area and front panel to allow a 240 mm rad, maybe a RX240 that I have
> - Paint RAD, pump, and reservoir non-clear pieces red
> - Sand blast all the black off of case (reason is below)
> - Use an air brush with proper white paint and clear coat, no spray cans
> - Prime and Re-paint front panel main plastic piece
> 
> 
> 
> Wow thats a big job man but if you dio it right that would blow my mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I´m also thinking about doing this with my R3 (only vutting the HDD cage out)
Click to expand...

Yep, should be awesome though if it turns out, might start on taking everything out tonight, bread board the rig for now. I'll probably just cur out the bottom of the ODD tray but leave the vertical parts for mounting my fan controller and a 5.25 > 3.5" adapter plate for mounting a WC pump down the road.

I'll be getting a MicroRes and probably stick it to the top of the case and drill a hole in the top for a fill port.

And I see you're a new member, welcome to the forum


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I think I'm going to rip my Core 1000 apart rivet by rivet and do the following:
> - Modify the ODD area and front panel to allow a 240 mm rad, maybe a RX240 that I have
> - Paint RAD, pump, and reservoir non-clear pieces red
> - Sand blast all the black off of case (reason is below)
> - Use an air brush with proper white paint and clear coat, no spray cans
> - Prime and Re-paint front panel main plastic piece


Why not just take it to get powder coated?









Depending where you're at and how many places are around that can do it, you can normally get it done for cheap.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Why not just take it to get powder coated?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depending where you're at and how many places are around that can do it, you can normally get it done for cheap.


The cheapest I could find was $60 to get it powder coated, which is just too much for something like painting.

My friend has a sand blasting cabinet and an air brush so all I need to to is buy paint.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> The cheapest I could find was $60 to get it powder coated, which is just too much for something like painting.
> My friend has a sand blasting cabinet and an air brush so all I need to to is buy paint.


$60 isn't bad, especially compared to how much tougher powder coat is compared to paint. And depending on the primer/paint/clear/sand paper ( if you want to make it nice with no orange peel ) you could easily speand at least $20-40+


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> The cheapest I could find was $60 to get it powder coated, which is just too much for something like painting.
> My friend has a sand blasting cabinet and an air brush so all I need to to is buy paint.
> 
> 
> 
> $60 isn't bad, especially compared to how much tougher powder coat is compared to paint. And depending on the primer/paint/clear/sand paper ( if you want to make it nice with no orange peel ) you could easily speand at least $20-40+
Click to expand...

Yeah, I though about it and called the guy back, he's willing to do the case for $50 cash, sand-blasted and everything, with a 2 week delay if I drop it off tomorrow night. So I plan to go home tonight, strip the case and really decide on if I'm going to do a 240 mm RAD or not.

Because it's going to be next to impossible to get the front plastic bezel to match the gloss white he will use, I'm going to change the front bezel to be red and get the mesh grills powder coated white as well.


----------



## Paul_M

Finished my new rig today, its early stage but so far so good, hope a can enjoy the club!


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I think I'm going to rip my Core 1000 apart rivet by rivet and do the following:
> - Modify the ODD area and front panel to allow a 240 mm rad, maybe a RX240 that I have
> - Paint RAD, pump, and reservoir non-clear pieces red
> - Sand blast all the black off of case (reason is below)
> - Use an air brush with proper white paint and clear coat, no spray cans
> - Prime and Re-paint front panel main plastic piece


That would be sweet man.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> Finished my new rig today, its early stage but so far so good, hope a can enjoy the club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks sharp. Makes me consider pulling my filters...but they are serving a purpose, so I'll probably think about it a bit more.







Still though, nice look.


----------



## csm725

Love my R3!
It's so good with HDD noise!








Included fans are very quiet at 7V.
I however will still replace them with the Spectres I ordered








And will add a side fan as well


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Yep, should be awesome though if it turns out, might start on taking everything out tonight, bread board the rig for now. I'll probably just cur out the bottom of the ODD tray but leave the vertical parts for mounting my fan controller and a 5.25 > 3.5" adapter plate for mounting a WC pump down the road.
> I'll be getting a MicroRes and probably stick it to the top of the case and drill a hole in the top for a fill port.
> And I see you're a new member, welcome to the forum


Yeah man hope you do and go one
It will be grat to see some pictures.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> Finished my new rig today, its early stage but so far so good, hope a can enjoy the club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


another kuhler owner, yay! nice build reminds me of mine very much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Looks sharp. Makes me consider pulling my filters...but they are serving a purpose, so I'll probably think about it a bit more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still though, nice look.


i think removing the front filter is not worth it at all. It's there on purpose to filter the dust sucked in by the front intake and ppl who remove them will just end up with a dustier chassis. The only justification is when it goes with the whole style concept of the build like the one done by mnpctech, which i posted earlier.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> i think removing the front filter is not worth it at all. It's there on purpose to filter the dust sucked in by the front intake and ppl who remove them will just end up with a dustier chassis. The only justification is when it goes with the whole style concept of the build like the one done by mnpctech, which i posted earlier.


I like the look of having the fans on show and hated the look when the filters started to get dusty and 2 rings formed on the filter. But i also hate dust build-up. So what i did was install more free flowing filters on the inside of the fans, problem solved


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> I like the look of having the fans on show and hated the look when the filters started to get dusty and 2 rings formed on the filter. But i also hate dust build-up. So what i did was install more free flowing filters on the inside of the fans, problem solved


Smart idea.

I honestly don't mind taking filters off since I give my rigs a good dusting every other week.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> I like the look of having the fans on show and hated the look when the filters started to get dusty and 2 rings formed on the filter. But i also hate dust build-up. So what i did was install more free flowing filters on the inside of the fans, problem solved


you're right but you would still have to clean the inside filters, which is harder then to clean the front one especially if there's a lot of parts and wires inside the case or a full vc loop for example and the side panel is on. plus so many people do that(remove the fron mech, that it became kinda boring and obvious to do)


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> you're right but you would still have to clean the inside filters, which is harder then to clean the front one especially if there's a lot of parts and wires inside the case or a full vc loop for example and the side panel is on. plus so many people do that(remove the fron mech, that it became kinda boring and obvious to do)


Like most things, its personal choice. More a sugestion to people who want to do the same.

I see your point about them being harder to clean, but because of where my PC is, opening it up to blow out the filters is not a problem.


----------



## Otterclock

I removed the filter and use two magnetic filters on the front. it's a bit easier to clean that way. and I can take them off situationally.


----------



## axipher

Well my case is completely stripped off and ready for powder coating.

I'll be doing the main case and panels gloss white, the rear PCI brackets red, but I'm stuck on what to do for the front. It will be too hard to match the gloss white powder coat with a white paint on the plastic so I'm pretty much stuck doing the front main bezel in red, but should I do the mesh covers in red as well, or do them in gloss white?


----------



## Shrak

Shouldn't be too hard to match glass white, could always spray some spare plastic scraps to get an idea first then go from there









But if you do decide red, I would personally do the mesh white just so the red isn't overly dominant.


----------



## ChesterCat

axipher's correct , white is prolly one of the hardest colors to properly match.

If it ain't the exact "spec" paint.....it'll look nasty


----------



## Paul_M

About the dust filters, is my first experience with Fractal Design cases, and in my opinion the stock front fans does not push much air with the front filter on, and without it things are better, at least with the stock fans, next month i will buy 4 GT 1850rpm and put the filter back in.(Too much money spent this month, i dont want a divorce







 )


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> About the dust filters, is my first experience with Fractal Design cases, and in my opinion the stock front fans does not push much air with the front filter on, and without it things are better, at least with the stock fans, next month i will buy 4 GT 1850rpm and put the filter back in.(Too much money spent this month, i dont want a divorce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Don`t you think that with 1850rpm they are to noise?
But man it`s yours








I personally really like the dustfilters (in my R3 they are working just great), and I don`t know how it is with the ARC


----------



## andrews2547

I have got two 120mm 1850rpm GT fans and they are surprisingly quiet







I am using them on my CPU heat sink though, not the actual case.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I've been thinking about buying 6x FD-FAN-140s but wanted to know if they're as silent as they suggest? I'll be installing 2 in the front, 1 in the rear, 2 in the roof and 1 in the floor.

Also thinking about buying a Lamptron FC8 but I can't find any pics of the Arc Midi with one installed. Anyone got one so I can see if they look good together?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I've been thinking about buying 6x FD-FAN-140s but wanted to know if they're as silent as they suggest? I'll be installing 2 in the front, 1 in the rear, 2 in the roof and 1 in the floor.


I would say get some Silent Series R2, they come with hydraulic bearings.









Through they have launched a few hours ago so they're not available for order atm...

I like the Bitfenix Spectre too, they have FDB bearings and are real cheap.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I've been thinking about buying 6x FD-FAN-140s but wanted to know if they're as silent as they suggest? I'll be installing 2 in the front, 1 in the rear, 2 in the roof and 1 in the floor.
> Also thinking about buying a Lamptron FC8 but I can't find any pics of the Arc Midi with one installed. Anyone got one so I can see if they look good together?


I have to recommend the Akasa Viper and Apache fans. They also have a FDB bearing, and have a great blade profile which increases their static pressure. Plus they are PWM, and PWM is Russian for WIN /jk

Off topic: would your name VulgarDisplay88 be referring to the Pantera CD Vulgar Display of Power??


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> axipher's correct , white is prolly one of the hardest colors to properly match.
> 
> If it ain't the exact "spec" paint.....it'll look nasty


My thought exactly.

I'll be dropping it off tonight, the guy said about a week to do because he's busy.

I've decided on Painting everything white (main case, PCI brackets, Mesh Panels, Side panels, GPU backplate, motherboard cover, PSU, fan casing) then all the rest red (GPU cooler, CPU block, RAD, Fan Grills, Fan blades, front bezel, fan controller)

Still on the fence about a full WC loop or the H80. I just RMA'd my H80 last week so I'll probably get a brand new one in the mail and I might just sell it to fund a WC loop instead and keep the Coolit Eco for now.

Either way, a full WC loop or the H80, I'll do white tubes with red anti-kink.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> About the dust filters, is my first experience with Fractal Design cases, and in my opinion the stock front fans does not push much air with the front filter on, and without it things are better, at least with the stock fans, next month i will buy 4 GT 1850rpm and put the filter back in.(Too much money spent this month, i dont want a divorce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


AP-15's work great with the dust filters.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalDesign*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> About the dust filters, is my first experience with Fractal Design cases, and in my opinion the stock front fans does not push much air with the front filter on, and without it things are better, at least with the stock fans, next month i will buy 4 GT 1850rpm and put the filter back in.(Too much money spent this month, i dont want a divorce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Don`t you think that with 1850rpm they are to noise?
> But man it`s yours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I personally really like the dustfilters (in my R3 they are working just great), and I don`t know how it is with the ARC
Click to expand...

My dist filters get cleaned once a week, not tons of build-up, but enough. Since I have negative pressure in my case, the two ODD mesh filters on my Core 1000 also get a little dusty since air is being sucked in through there as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I have got two 120mm 1850rpm GT fans and they are surprisingly quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using them on my CPU heat sink though, not the actual case.


I can't believe I'm seeing you out of the Off-topic section









And same here, but my AP-15's are doing double duty as case fans and heatsink fans on my 120 mm Coolit Eco RAD.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Off topic: would your name VulgarDisplay88 be referring to the Pantera CD Vulgar Display of Power??


It is indeed. My first rig was named Razorback after Dimebags guitar as well. As you can probably guess I like Pantera a lot.


----------



## axipher

Just an idea, but who would be up for having a list on the first post of builds that are currently in progress?


----------



## csm725

My R3's front LED isn't working.
I've had the case for less than 24 hours, last time I looked the LED was working fine, but now it just isn't...
I checked the connection and it's fine,
What the heck?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> My R3's front LED isn't working.
> I've had the case for less than 24 hours, last time I looked the LED was working fine, but now it just isn't...
> I checked the connection and it's fine,
> What the heck?


Which LED?

If it's the POWER LED, check to see if your rig is powered on...

If it's the HDD LED, check to make sure you have a HDD, SSD, or ODD installed and it's being used...


----------



## csm725

Power LED, I don't think the R3 has an HDD LED.
Yeah the rig is on... I'm using it now...
The LED is just not on.


----------



## axipher

Unplug the LED from the motherboard header and plug the HDD LED in to it, if you don't have an HDD LED then get a multimeter and test for DC voltage across the two pins for the power LED. This will at least determine if it's the motherboard not outputting a signal to it or if your LED is dead.


----------



## csm725

I do not think the R3 has an HDD LED.
I do not have a multimeter.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I do not think the R3 has an HDD LED.
> I do not have a multimeter.


Do you have another case laying around with a Power LED you can plug in to see if it's your motherboard failing or not?


----------



## csm725

I suppose so, but the point being it was working earlier today...


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> the point being it was working earlier today...


And axipher made it a *point* to give you every method to test.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I suppose so, but the point being it was working earlier today...


We just need to figure out if it's your case's LED that's pooched, or your motherboard decided to take a crap.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> the point being it was working earlier today...
> 
> 
> 
> And axipher made it a *point* to give you every method to test.
Click to expand...

Lol, I did didn't I


----------



## csm725

I'll test later if I can be bothered to. I'll just live with it, not like I can have it replaced...


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> Could anyone tell me if there's enough space to mount 2 140mm fans in the front of the R3? I know you can't with the standard mounting system but if I left out the 120mm mounts and drilled holes in the frame would there be enough clearance from the hdd cage and width/height to fit them?


So could anyone help me with this?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Can someone tell me how to mount 120mm fans on the Arc Midi? I'm hopefully going to get a H100 now with push/pull AP-15s and I'd like to get some AP-13/14s to match. I've seen 140mm to 120mm adapters but I don't know how they'd fit in the front panel.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Can someone tell me how to mount 120mm fans on the Arc Midi? I'm hopefully going to get a H100 now with push/pull AP-15s and I'd like to get some AP-13/14s to match. I've seen 140mm to 120mm adapters but I don't know how they'd fit in the *front* panel.


AFAIK only 140mm fans fit in the front clips, they aren't interchangable like the top is.

I'm geting my Arc Midi tonight, I'm so freaking pumped! I've been waiting months to get this case and I spent all of those months researching it. I already ordered 2 Bgears b-Blaster 140mm fans to go in the front. In the future I'll be using those as my front 280mm rad fans along with 2 additional Bgears b-Blaster 120mm fans for the top 240mm rad fan. That's all later, when I have money. Which I def don't right now...


----------



## axipher

There are some 280 mm to 240 mm adapter plates that would probably suit your needs.


----------



## ColdRush

Just ordered a Fractal Core 1000, not sure if that is cool enough for this club though


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdRush*
> 
> Just ordered a Fractal Core 1000, not sure if that is cool enough for this club though


Welcome to the club man, you'll love the case once you get by the lack cable management. Just check out my build log in my signature.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> AFAIK only 140mm fans fit in the front clips, they aren't interchangable like the top is.
> I'm geting my Arc Midi tonight, I'm so freaking pumped! I've been waiting months to get this case and I spent all of those months researching it. I already ordered 2 Bgears b-Blaster 140mm fans to go in the front. In the future I'll be using those as my front 280mm rad fans along with 2 additional Bgears b-Blaster 120mm fans for the top 240mm rad fan. That's all later, when I have money. Which I def don't right now...


I'm not sure about the Arc Midi but I know the Core 3000 has one for 140mm and one for 120mm on the front panel









I'm using the stock 120mm fan from the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo to keep my HDDs cool and a stock Fractal 140mm fan for better airflow









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColdRush*
> 
> Just ordered a Fractal Core 1000, not sure if that is cool enough for this club though


It is cool enough







If I have to build a mATX PC the Core 1000 will be my first choice for a case.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just ordered a H100, 2x AP-15s, 4x FD-FAN-140s, sleeving, heat shrink, black 3 pin connectors and some neoprene trim. Just got to order some acrylic and some mounting tape now (might use bolts instead, dunno yet) and then I can start modding again.


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092*
> 
> So could anyone help me with this?


yeah technecly it would be possible, but you would have to take out your dremmel for cutting a Space for a dual 140 fangrill.
But I perspnally think that you wold miss the point of the R3 with it`s Dustfilters - but I know you can buy aftermarkets..
So all in all it`s possible to do


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just ordered a H100, 2x AP-15s, 4x FD-FAN-140s, sleeving, heat shrink, black 3 pin connectors and some neoprene trim. Just got to order some acrylic and some mounting tape now (might use bolts instead, dunno yet) and then I can start modding again.


Cheers mate


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otterclock*
> 
> I removed the filter and use two magnetic filters on the front. it's a bit easier to clean that way. and I can take them off situationally.


can you post a pic?


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> can you post a pic?


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8823/ffi-29/DEMCiflex_120mm_Magnetic_Fan_Dust_Filter_-_Black_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html


----------



## rossb

This is my first post here, since my Arc Midi is in a van and is about to be delivered today and I will be moving the PC from my current Antec P193 v3 over easter.

Along with the case will be 6 Noctua NF-P14s to go with the two 140mm Fractal Silent Series fans I bought yesterday.

The plan is to put the two new Fractal fans in the front, with the Noctuas going everywhere else - two on top, one rear, one bottom and one on the side. Is this too much? I am currently using two GTX 580s, but about to go to a single GTX 680 (although will probably end up with two of these) and so I am looking to get better airflow than I currently have in the Antec case while keeping noise down.

I don't plan to use the fan controller and so my question is really how best to set these fans. The two Fractal fans will run on full speed anyway, since they are 800 rpm and claimed to be 9dba, so should effectively be silent. I will probably try the Noctuas with the Low Noise adapters, but would 6 of these still end up being loud? Would the ULNA adapters be sufficient if there are 6 of them? I'd be interested to know how others are using their Noctuas in these cases and what the results have been like.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rossb*
> 
> I'd be interested to know how others are using their Noctuas in these cases and what the results have been like.


Have no complaints with the six Noctuas in my Fractal Mini.

Was not overly impressed with the "cheap" controller, nor was I satisfied with header control of fans.
Back to a manual controller, and sound most defiantly not an issue. Virtually inaudible while surfing
and easily jacked up for the big-boy stuff.

Doubt you'll encounter heat issues with the fans you've listed


----------



## dvalle22

Just built my first rig a few weeks ago. I went with the FD Arc Midi. I'm a big fan of the minimalist style design so it fit perfectly. I did really want a window in my side panel just because I think it's cool to be able to see everything. So, this weekend I went and bought some 1/8" acrylic and made myself a side panel. I stole the idea from another rig that I saw here on OCN. I changed it up a little though, by doing a beveled edge and making my screws flush with the side panel.

I actually bought two pieces of acrylic. Clear and smoked. The clear was just a test run, but I really like how it turned out. The smoked will be done this weekend. I really like the clear those because I can see everything without needing lights inside.

Let me know what you think.


----------



## rossb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Have no complaints with the six Noctuas in my Fractal Mini.
> Was not overly impressed with the "cheap" controller, nor was I satisfied with header control of fans.
> Back to a manual controller, and sound most defiantly not an issue. Virtually inaudible while surfing
> and easily jacked up for the big-boy stuff.
> Doubt you'll encounter heat issues with the fans you've listed


Thanks. Do you need to have the fans on maximum during gaming/stress testing? If yes, how is the sound?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8823/ffi-29/DEMCiflex_120mm_Magnetic_Fan_Dust_Filter_-_Black_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html


thanks, but i meant how it looks on the case itself


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Have no complaints with the six Noctuas in my Fractal Mini.
> Was not overly impressed with the "cheap" controller, nor was I satisfied with header control of fans.
> Back to a manual controller, and sound most defiantly not an issue. Virtually inaudible while surfing
> and easily jacked up for the big-boy stuff.
> Doubt you'll encounter heat issues with the fans you've listed


How did you mount that Hard Drive??


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dvalle22*


Nice one mate.







+rep


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Have no complaints with the six Noctuas in my Fractal Mini.
> Was not overly impressed with the "cheap" controller, nor was I satisfied with header control of fans.
> Back to a manual controller, and sound most defiantly not an issue. Virtually inaudible while surfing
> and easily jacked up for the big-boy stuff.
> Doubt you'll encounter heat issues with the fans you've listed
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, I used the Fractal controller for several weeks and the wiring is insanely delicate. I wish that they had sleeved at least the main portion of the cable. I manage to get it connected and then it worked fairly well, but then it died within weeks...and I hadn't twisted the knob since setting it up. Perhaps I just got a bad one. FD US was great though...and FedEx-ed me a replacement (and even offered to send me an extra one), but the replacement sits unused.

My opinion - if you want a fan controller, you can do a lot better than the stock FD for not a lot of money. Personally, I went with PWM fans, but I seem to be the odd man out.


----------



## csm725

I don't like the included fans at all to be honest, they're not too quiet.
I'm replacing them.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I don't like the included fans at all to be honest, they're not too quiet.
> I'm replacing them.


They seemed pretty quiet to me when I dialed them down...and still seemed to move a a decent amount of air, but I wanted to go with PWMs to get more dynamic control. My MB doesn't support dynamically adjusting the speed of three pin fans...although the new "V" version does.

Noctuas are great, but I don't like the color scheme. Yeah, shallow, but true. Akasas are also very good. I went with Noiseblockers because I like the mounting system and the fact that they come with two different length sleeved extension cables, but there are many other less expensive options.

cheers,
Scuba


----------



## csm725

I'm getting these methinks:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_49_1050&products_id=28381


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rossb*
> 
> Thanks. Do you need to have the fans on maximum during gaming/stress testing? If yes, how is the sound?


Gaming runs louder [of course] .......but typically not heard over the sounds of the actual game
Fans running at 50-60%

For stress at MAX 90% = *LOUD* [not sumthin i'd be wanting to hear all day]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> How did you mount that Hard Drive??


first make a template of the HD's screw hole pattern

empty 51/2 drive bays , tranfer template over and drill
out matching holes

a 90 degree or right angled drill will come in handy

screw down thru drive bay into HD.

use some kinda suspension washer/standoff
to keep HD off of direct cage contact

real simple......but very effective


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> I'm getting these methinks:


I'd be getting you one of these too, methinks ....... *Doesn't everyone have a meter ?*


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I'd be getting you one of these too, methinks ....... *Doesn't everyone have a meter ?*


You'd be surprised how many people don't have multimeters


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> You'd be surprised how many people don't have multimeters


----------



## Shrak




----------



## Lukegrimbley

Need some advice people. Making some changes to the inside of my PC very soon and trying to decide weather or not to loose my blue LED's. I'm going for the clean sleek look and they seem a bit gimicky. The decision i need to make is between having none or having white LED's in place of the blue ones.

The other option is to keep the blue. Trying to make it as clean as possible. What are your opinions?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Need some advice people. Making some changes to the inside of my PC very soon and trying to decide weather or not to loose my blue LED's. I'm going for the clean sleek look and they seem a bit gimicky. The decision i need to make is between having none or having white LED's in place of the blue ones.
> 
> The other option is to keep the blue. Trying to make it as clean as possible. What are your opinions?


I think any color LED's or lighting in general can look amazing as long as it's done in moderation with a nice even effect on the entire case.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Need some advice people. Making some changes to the inside of my PC very soon and trying to decide weather or not to loose my blue LED's. I'm going for the clean sleek look and they seem a bit gimicky. The decision i need to make is between having none or having white LED's in place of the blue ones.
> The other option is to keep the blue. Trying to make it as clean as possible. What are your opinions?


sidewindow or none - white, otherwise ditch the lighting


----------



## Crim427

So I am doing a build for a friend and I offered him about 10 case choices. The R3 was in there and he picked the Antec 900 over it.


----------



## rossb

Just wondering whether most of you are removing the filters on the front and top?

After doing the rather unscientific experiment of blowing through the filter, it seems to block a huge amount of airflow.

How do you remove the filters without damaging the mesh? Do you just pull it out from underneath the frame?


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rossb*
> 
> Just wondering whether most of you are removing the filters on the front and top?
> After doing the rather unscientific experiment of blowing through the filter, it seems to block a huge amount of airflow.
> How do you remove the filters without damaging the mesh? Do you just pull it out from underneath the frame?


I left the front mesh on. Would probably look better without it, but it is serving its purpose as an intake filter...and I have two intake fans on the front to ensure that I am controlling where the air is coming in just for that reason. The top mesh seems less useful, although I guess it helps with falling dust for the spots in which I don't have a fan.


----------



## andrews2547

I might take the front filter off my Core 3000. It's starting to get a dust ring where the fan is









I have got the fans set so there's always high pressure inside the case so it shouldn't get too dusty without the filter.


----------



## rossb

I haven't even built the PC yet but I just ripped out the filters. They would seem to block 50-60% of airflow from my unscientific analysis, and I can't see how they would be beneficial. I actually prefer the look with the filters on, but not at the expense of a hotter pc. I will leave a square of the filter on the top just covering the fan position nearest the front, to prevent cool air from the front intake fan escaping directly above without cooling any components, although I will probably replace this with something more solid. So far, the filters are the only thing I don't like about this case. I'm really looking forward to starting the build on friday!


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rossb*
> 
> I can't see how they would be beneficial.


----------



## rossb

Okay, well I _can_ see how they would be beneficial in keeping out dust, but that marginal benefit seems to me more than outweighed by the airflow penalty which looks to me as if it would be huge. If you keep positive air pressure in your case and clean it from time to time, dust should not really be a problem anyway (he says hopefully).


----------



## TwentyCent

Has any of you guys seen a Arc Midi with a 240 rad fitted between the mobo-side side panel and the HDD cages? Could you fit a slim rad (say like the EX240) in there without removing the HDD cages ?


----------



## macarule

my front fans make a vibrating sound its just started and i cant find out what it is







it only vibrates when the front panel is clipped to the case its like a low humming sound when its not it doesn't make a sound, any ideas?


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> my front fans make a vibrating sound its just started and i cant find out what it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it only vibrates when the front panel is clipped to the case its like a low humming sound when its not it doesn't make a sound, any ideas?


Are you sure it's the fan and not an HDD vibration traveling to the front of the case?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Has any of you guys seen a Arc Midi with a 240 rad fitted between the mobo-side side panel and the HDD cages? Could you fit a slim rad (say like the EX240) in there without removing the HDD cages ?


very easy to check, take the size specs of the arc midi and the needed radiator and you'll get the answer. I suspect attaching it would be a pain though plus the cages could get in the way of tubing. i think it's easier to fit a dual rad behind the front fans or on the top like most ppl do.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> I might take the front filter off my Core 3000. It's starting to get a dust ring where the fan is


On mine I get those "dust rings" and have to vacuum like every week.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Are you sure it's the fan and not an HDD vibration traveling to the front of the case?


yeah because when i turn of the front fans the sound stops? i have anti vibration frames on the front but that didnt help at all


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> yeah because when i turn of the front fans the sound stops? i have anti vibration frames on the front but that didnt help at all


Then it is most likely either out of balance or not mounted flush. The former can happen due to a defect. If it just started to happen, the bearing may have gone bad. I had that happen to one of my Fractal fans...and they replaced it. It could also be that it is not mounted flush or the frame is being torqued somehow. Are all four clips securely locked over the fan? Is any of the wiring under one corner of the fan? When you mount the front panel, are you sure that all four posts are fully inserted to the chassis?

You might also be encountering some sort of odd wave harmonic by the vibrations from the HDD colliding with the vibrations from the fan. Can you change the speed of the fan...and if so, does the vibration then go away?

You could also try swapping the fan with another in the case to see if it makes a difference.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Then it is most likely either out of balance or not mounted flush. The former can happen due to a defect. If it just started to happen, the bearing may have gone bad. I had that happen to one of my Fractal fans...and they replaced it. It could also be that it is not mounted flush or the frame is being torqued somehow. Are all four clips securely locked over the fan? Is any of the wiring under one corner of the fan? When you mount the front panel, are you sure that all four posts are fully inserted to the chassis?
> You might also be encountering some sort of odd wave harmonic by the vibrations from the HDD colliding with the vibrations from the fan. Can you change the speed of the fan...and if so, does the vibration then go away?
> You could also try swapping the fan with another in the case to see if it makes a difference.


i will check the top things tonight, i swapped out the both front fans for noise blocker PK3s and the problem is still there







its really bugging me, ill try sort it out


----------



## LazarusIV

So I got my Arc Midi the other day and I've got a fan question. I've ordered and received 2 Bgears b-Blaster 140mm fans for front intake and I've got the included Fractal fans for the top and back. I was wondering, what if I set up the top fans as intake as well as the front fans? Would that be too much positive pressure? What if I ordered 2 more Bgears b-Blaster 140mm fans for the top? What do you guys think?


----------



## JDUB_68

Just got my Arc Midi yesterday and almost everything assembled last night. I was debating getting it for a couple months now and I wish I did it sooner. This thing is easy as hell to work with, I love how wide it is, makes cable management in the back easy. Also going from a NZXT Phantom to this, it just seems a whole lot classier.

Now I'm just debating modding the front panel and adding a Corsair H100...

Thanks to everybody for putting up their pictures and everything, definitely helped me make my mind up.


----------



## LazarusIV

Spoiler: snippity snip



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> Just got my Arc Midi yesterday and almost everything assembled last night. I was debating getting it for a couple months now and I wish I did it sooner. This thing is easy as hell to work with, I love how wide it is, makes cable management in the back easy. Also going from a NZXT Phantom to this, it just seems a whole lot classier.
> Now I'm just debating modding the front panel and adding a Corsair H100...
> Thanks to everybody for putting up their pictures and everything, definitely helped me make my mind up.






That looks very excellent jdub, well put together and clean. Well done and I'm glad you like it!


----------



## JDUB_68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> That looks very excellent jdub, well put together and clean. Well done and I'm glad you like it!


Thanks I appreciate it!


----------



## thfallen

I just got my XL in been working fixing every thing up.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> On mine I get those "dust rings" and have to vacuum like every week.


I used a 1400W vacuum cleaner and the dust still doesn't come off







I'm just going to take the filter out when I can be bothered.


----------



## rossb

I finally moved the PC into the Arc Midi this morning, and here are the results ...


----------



## rossb

Overall, I am happy with the build, although a few disappointments along the way.

The first is the front and top filter material. Once I realised how much airflow these block, they had to come out. I prefer the appearance with the filters in - I don't like seeing the fans - but I can live with it. I was also surprised there was no manual in the case, although it wasn't too hard to figure out where everything went, and it was a pleasant case to build in, with plenty of room and well laid out.

I was annoyed not to be able to get my Noctua fan in the bottom slot, once I realised that the PSU - a Season X-1000 Platinum - is too long. At some point I may downsize the PSU, now that I am running only a single GPU.

Cable management is probably the best I have been able to do. The inside of the case looks pretty good, although underneath the rear panel there is a bird's nest of wire and the side panel is bulging a little. I can't imagine having even less space in the R3.

I installed the fans first, and connected them up to a spare molex connector, side by side with pc in my Antec P193v3, just to hear how the fans sounded. Very disappointing! The fans were clearly audible - even with the Noctuas using ULNA adapters, it was louder than the Antec with stock fans on low. The Fractal Silent Series fans also displayed a faint but noticeable whine.

Then I tried the NZXT Sentry Mix fan controller I had bought during the week, although my preference was not to install it. I wanted to keep the front of the case clean, and I also wanted to find some quiet fan settings using the Noctua adapters that I would never have to change. Unfortunately, that wasn't to be. The fan controller did solve the problem, however. With all fans on the lowest setting the pc was now virtually inaudible, and much quieter than the Antec. With all fans on full, the difference in noise levels is even greater than the Antec, and in fact the sound is quite tolerable.

As the pc is sitting on carpet, I am a little concerned that the PSU is taking in air from the bottom of the case, so the bottom filter will probably clog with dust pretty quickly. I may have to put the PC on a piece of wood to solve this problem.

Temps don't seem to have changed much. The CPU always remains cool thanks mainly to the Noctua NH-C14. I am testing GPU temps with Kombustor as I type this, and the GTX 680 seems to have stabilised at 79 degrees with fans on full, compared with 82 degrees in the Antec case. (Switching the top fans to lowest settings, leaving only the side fan and front fans on full only adds a single degree to the GPU temps but significantly reduces noise.) This is a marginal improvement over the Antec, and not quite the dramatic drop in temps I was hoping for. Until a few days ago I was running GTX 580s in SLI and the noise and heat - and the random crashes from overheating - were driving me crazy. Going to a single 680 has solved most of these problems (with a slight reduction in fps in BF3), but it doesn't look like this case will allow me to add a second 680 without encountering the same problems.

Aside from the cooling and noise benefits, I prefer the Arc Midi to the Antec case because it is smaller and better looking, it has no door (which I prefer) and the power switch and USB ports are on the top where I can reach them. Overall, I'm glad I switched to this case.


----------



## ChesterCat

andrews2547:

You have any humidity in your home ?

Micron sized dust particles have hardened with the humidity in the air. Vacs prolly won't remove it......but light brushing will.

Can you imagine that sticky dust coating all the components inside your case ? You can ultimately can get the millage
thick enuff to cause over-heating, not to mention causing all kinds of problems with the balance of your kit.

Stuck on dust can kill sensitive electronics rather quickly


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> andrews2547:
> You have any humidity in your home ?
> Micron sized dust particles have hardened with the humidity in the air. Vacs prolly won't remove it......but light brushing will.
> Can you imagine that sticky dust coating all the components inside your case ? You can ultimately can get the millage
> thick enuff to cause over-heating, not to mention causing all kinds of problems with the balance of your kit.
> Stuck on dust can kill sensitive electronics rather quickly


Yeah lol usually 80-90% depending on whether I have my window open or not. The humidity right now outside is 92% where I live.

Thanks for that tip though







I shouldn't get too much dust in my case because of the pressure inside









I got two 140 mm intakes (all stockFfractal) on the top, one 120 mm intake (the stock fan that comes with the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo) on the front and I got one 120 mm exhaust (stock Fractal) at the back.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> Just got my Arc Midi yesterday


NICE !!!!!









........and you even have a "proper" GPU too !!!!

















*Gotta Luv that card*


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Yeah lol usually 80-90% depending on whether I have my window open or not. The humidity right now outside is 92% where I live.


Exactly why you "should NOT" remove your [intake] filters. Especially in HIGH humidity settings.
Deal with the clean-up...rather than having to replace componets. It'll kill' um

Ah-Ha.......you gots sum posi pressure !!! good stuff then........you'll prolly live !!


----------



## thfallen

my XL as it stands right now. still have to put another raid in and a few things but it is working out great.


----------



## csm725

I run positive pressure on my R3 as well. In humid Israel it'd be a pain in the butt otherwise.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> On mine I get those "dust rings" and have to vacuum like every week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used a 1400W vacuum cleaner and the dust still doesn't come off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just going to take the filter out when I can be bothered.
Click to expand...

I use my hoover @max power and it wipes instantly.


----------



## csm725

Okay, what!?
The case LED is working now!


----------



## Paul_M

Is getting good:thumb:


----------



## AbdullahG

Okay, I'm ordering my Core 1000 today (moving held it off for awhile).
I'm getting extra Arctic Cooling fans and CPU cooler with it for cheap at my dad's friends computer shop (all fans and cooling for about $50).
Here's what I'm getting:

2x 120mm fans: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186033
1x 92mm fan:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186034

I'm stuck with the CPU cooler though.
Will any of thse two fit properly in a Core 1000:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186039
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134


----------



## tonyjones

I just bought the fractal design r3 black pearl for $85 shipped!! woot can't wait, i hope it can fit 2 x GTX 295


----------



## Fear Before

Did a little cable management today. Comments and suggestions welcomed.


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyjones*
> 
> I just bought the fractal design r3 black pearl for $85 shipped!! woot can't wait, i hope it can fit 2 x GTX 295


Of course you can tecnicly fit it








I think the temperatures will stay right if you have good fans like noctuas or others with good cfm, I would recommend you to use the side pannel fan as an exhaust


----------



## AbdullahG

Alright, ordered my Core 1000.
Might come tomorrow or Monday









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Did a little cable management today. Comments and suggestions welcomed.


Zipties are your best friend.


----------



## 271973

I read an article a few weeks ago where one of the bigger hardware review sites used a Fractal R3 to test different system fan configurations. It was very extensive but I for the life of me cannot find it again! Anyone know the article I'm talking of?


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I read an article a few weeks ago where one of the bigger hardware review sites used a Fractal R3 to test different system fan configurations. It was very extensive but I for the life of me cannot find it again! Anyone know the article I'm talking of?


Is this it:
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Is this it:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1


Thank you!


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Is this it:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1


Quote:


> 1. The amount of venting in your case can have a huge impact on cooling, particularly around the CPU area. If you have fan mounts here that are blocked up, unblock them.
> 
> 2. Generally, all other things being equal, it's better to get hot air out of your case than to pump cool air in, particularly when it comes to CPU cooling.
> 
> 3. If you have a roof mount that's located nearer the front of the case than the CPU cooler, leave it open. Fitting a fan here only causes problems.


I don't agree with this as it goes against positive pressure airflow and would cause more dust in the case. Then again the R3 is not a good case for positive flow. With two different cases now I've use top mounted intakes, blocked other fan mounts and achieved better temps with less dust.


----------



## Blizlake

If you have only one fan, then it's best to have it as rear exhaust. Otherwise, positive pressure for the win!


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> my front fans make a vibrating sound its just started and i cant find out what it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it only vibrates when the front panel is clipped to the case its like a low humming sound when its not it doesn't make a sound, any ideas?


no one got any idea? ive replaced the fans, added rubber mounts that came with the noise blockers, that did nothing, when i take the front panel off the case with the fans in it the noise stops and when the fans are turned off the noise stops


----------



## mswn

Hey, guys! I'm officially joining the club! Here's a preliminary (and very grainy, very cell phone-y) picture of my new Define Mini, shortly after hearing the sweet sound of My Very First POST Beep:



Unfortunately, I realized right after taking this picture that my motherboard didn't have an internal USB 3.0 header to go with the case's lovely 19-pin, which I just _knew_ was going to drive me nuts; so I tore it out and will hopefully be able to exchange it for one that does at Micro Center today. Oh well, it wouldn't be a first build with a little bit of frustration, right?

It was tough to decide between the Define Mini and the Arc Mini-I was sitting on the floor of the store looking back and forth between the two of them for ages. What finally clinched it was a sudden vision of the Arc Mini's front grille clogged with cat hair...







Yeah.

Glad to be able to join you all!


----------



## tonyjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalDesign*
> 
> Of course you can tecnicly fit it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the temperatures will stay right if you have good fans like noctuas or others with good cfm, I would recommend you to use the side pannel fan as an exhaust


So this is what I'm thinking, put both stock fans in the front, get four noctuas 120mm fan for the two top exhaust rear exhaust and side panel exhaust, watcha think, I def would turn up the front fans to the max to get the air flow in


----------



## 271973

I would have a read of the Bit Tech article AbdullahG posted a few posts back. I believe in this instance, the air you'd be pushing in from the front would be pulled out of the case by the side panel before it could circulate over CPU/GPU. I would have the side as an intake. Use the top and rear as exhausts to get all that heat off your CPU/chipset and pull up some GPU hot air also.


----------



## goat

I have a question about the define XL before I buy it.
Will I need some extensions for my antec truepower psu? If I do, where would be a good place for me to shop for some?


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goat*
> 
> I have a question about the define XL before I buy it.
> Will I need some extensions for my antec truepower psu? If I do, where would be a good place for me to shop for some?


Most likely the only one you'll need is a 4pin or 4+4 for the cpu power. The rest should reach. ( My Corsair AX1200 all fit except for the 4+4 pin ). And you can find the extensions anywhere, especially if you're here in the beach, you can get them at Bestbuy, CompUSA, and a few of the local repair/retailer shops.

But if you get the case before the extension you can still use it, just run the 4+4 up the front of the case and not around the back until you get an extension.


----------



## thfallen

or you could just run it under the motherboard that's how i have mine till i get the extension.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> or you could just run it under the motherboard that's how i have mine till i get the extension.


Why add more work for yourself


----------



## Kaneda13

It's MOD-urday! check out the link to see my newest mod, fitting a Unisink, EK-VGA block onto a EVGA GTX470 (click to see the build log)


----------



## rossb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyjones*
> 
> So this is what I'm thinking, put both stock fans in the front, get four noctuas 120mm fan for the two top exhaust rear exhaust and side panel exhaust, watcha think, I def would turn up the front fans to the max to get the air flow in


That sounds ideal. I have six fans in my Arc Midi in similar positions - see post on page 207 - four Noctuas and two Fractals. I expected to run them all on full, but actually found that they work fine with my fan controller on the lowest setting for all fans, which I believe is 40%. Turning the fans on full only cools an additional 1-2 degrees even while playing BF3, so not really worth it for the additional noise. Turning the front fans on full made little difference - the side fan actually made the biggest difference, although again only a degree or two. Also, the stock fans are said to be noisy on full (which is why I used FD Silent Series in the front), so take that into account. Experiment with your fans but you may find it is not necessary to have them on max - this is the advantage of having more fans. My pc now actually runs absolutely silently 90% of the time, and I mean completely inaudible!


----------



## 271973

Anyone any advice for someone with an R3 who wants to remove the HDD cage entirely, but still be able to mount an SSD and 1, perhaps 2, 3.5" drives? The only real snag is that I don't want to have to drill any holes.


----------



## gceclifton

With thye cage removed entirely, you could hide an SSD behind the mobo tray, stuck down with a sticky pad or some sticky velcro patches for re-usability and chuck HDD in the upper bays. (It comes with a 3 1/2" to 5 1/4" converter IIRC). With no holes drilled, I'm not sure the second one would fit with an optical drive unless you are happy with it sitting loose on the floor of the case...


----------



## axipher

Here's a quick picture of my front panel I've been working. Not completely satisfied with the result, will probably re-do it again though:


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> With thye cage removed entirely, you could hide an SSD behind the mobo tray, stuck down with a sticky pad or some sticky velcro patches for re-usability and chuck HDD in the upper bays. (It comes with a 3 1/2" to 5 1/4" converter IIRC). With no holes drilled, I'm not sure the second one would fit with an optical drive unless you are happy with it sitting loose on the floor of the case...


Thanks. No optical drive so I guess I could fit both HDDs drives into the 5.25" bays and I might see if I can wrap the SSD onto the rear side of those bays also? Might have a hoke through the thread and see if I can find anyone else who has attempted it (with pics!).


----------



## Shrak

*@ Axipher*

That looks pretty good from the pictures. What exactly aren't you satisfied with?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> *@ Axipher*
> 
> That looks pretty good from the pictures. What exactly aren't you satisfied with?


Thanks man









Not quite as shiny as I want it, a few parts where some scratches are showing, and some of the edges are a little shy on paint. I won't know until I get the main body of the case back from powder coating.


----------



## TwentyCent

What kind of paint did you use? Before starting over, I would maybe try to spray a clear coat on it, then use car wax. Should be shiny enough









If not, then you could always redo it, but only then! Already looks quite good from what I see!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> What kind of paint did you use? Before starting over, I would maybe try to spray a clear coat on it, then use car wax. Should be shiny enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not, then you could always redo it, but only then! Already looks quite good from what I see!


----------



## TwentyCent

Oh I see, quite familiar with that stuff you are :yodaemoticon:

Have you tried wax then?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwentyCent*
> 
> Oh I see, quite familiar with that stuff you are :yodaemoticon:
> 
> Have you tried wax then?


Nope, just put the last coat of clear on this morning, so leaving it now for a couple days to cure in the garage.

P.S.: This is my 5000th non-OT post


----------



## TwentyCent




----------



## lurker2501

the skeleton :3


----------



## AbdullahG

Core 1000 is still in packaging








My other components should be here tomorrow.

Quick question for Core 1000 users, is the sideways mounting system for the HDD sturdy, and does it cause an vibration?
I'll most likely use the 5.25 inch bay if I replace the fan controller with a PCI fan controller I saw online.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Nope, just put the last coat of clear on this morning, so leaving it now for a couple days to cure in the garage.
> P.S.: This is my 5000th non-OT post


Hope it turns out the way you want, but from the pictures, I like how it's turning out.

You going white on the mesh or did you decide red for them too?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Core 1000 is still in packaging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My other components should be here tomorrow.
> 
> Quick question for Core 1000 users, is the sideways mounting system for the HDD sturdy, and does it cause an vibration?
> I'll most likely use the 5.25 inch bay if I replace the fan controller with a PCI fan controller I saw online.


The sideways mounting system is very secure, and it comes with rubber mounts for a 3.5" HDD. I came up with a way to use them on 2.5" drives too, you just need to hit up the local hardware store for some M4 screws (#4-40 x 3/8")

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Nope, just put the last coat of clear on this morning, so leaving it now for a couple days to cure in the garage.
> P.S.: This is my 5000th non-OT post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it turns out the way you want, but from the pictures, I like how it's turning out.
> 
> You going white on the mesh or did you decide red for them too?
Click to expand...

Thanks man









And going white on the mesh, here's a list of what I gave the guy to powder coat in white gloss:
- Main case
- PCI brackets
- Front mesh pieces
- Both side panels
- HDD tray


----------



## AbdullahG

Thanks for the advice!


----------



## axipher

My pleasure


----------



## thfallen

still have to sand it down and put the window in but just thought i might see what you all though.



one 6 pin done 4 to go.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> 
> still have to sand it down and put the window in but just thought i might see what you all though.
> 
> one 6 pin done 4 to go.


It looks horrible. Why did you cut it so inaccurately? :\

Terrible mess with the cables and don't put those fans like that, looks bad and blocks the view.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> It looks horrible. Why did you cut it so inaccurately? :\
> Terrible mess with the cables and don't put those fans like that, looks bad and blocks the view.


Doesn't look like he has much of a choice for the fans, as it's a radiator aswell


----------



## Hasdrubal

Make me a member of the club as well. I didn't take pictures of my Arc Midi after cable management, the only one I've got so far is one with a mess of cables, which has since been cleaned:



I'm going to replace the CPU fan this weekend, I'll take this oportunity to take more pictures.


----------



## drBlahMan

Does anybody know if the Prolimatech Genesis will fit inside the Fractal Design 3000*?*

I know the case will support the height of that heatsink...I'm not sure about the length


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Does anybody know if the Prolimatech Genesis will fit inside the Fractal Design 3000*?*
> 
> I know the case will support the height of that heatsink...I'm not sure about the length


I think it should. The 3000 has 2x140mm holes on top = 280mm clearance, minus the space on top of the 5,25" bays.


----------



## thfallen

its not as inaccurately cut as it looks and as it said it still needs to be sanded down.A ll the cables are going to be moved when i get around to putting every thing back together.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> It looks horrible. Why did you cut it so inaccurately? :\
> Terrible mess with the cables and don't put those fans like that, looks bad and blocks the view.


this. somebody should get familiar with a masking tape, ruler and a pencil. but it has potential if it plays out right.


----------



## JDUB_68

Quick question, is it possible to get a replacement front panel for the Arc Midi?

I'm thinking of modding it to get rid of the plastic bars across the fans and was wondering if I could get a replacement in case I really screw up somehow...


----------



## elzhi

here's my R3.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> Quick question, is it possible to get a replacement front panel for the Arc Midi?
> I'm thinking of modding it to get rid of the plastic bars across the fans and was wondering if I could get a replacement in case I really screw up somehow...


^This.

Or even if its possible to get a mesh pannel as the tabs you have to bend on mine are almost all broken off. Do you think Fractal would sell this part?


----------



## csm725

Fractal shipped me a replacement front power switch, will take nice pics of the case interior then.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> ^This.
> Or even if its possible to get a mesh pannel as the tabs you have to bend on mine are almost all broken off. Do you think Fractal would sell this part?


i've sent 3 different emails, and not gotten a response form any of them about purchasing a side panel. so if anyone hears anything definitive on this, let me know.


----------



## AbdullahG

Core 1000 came today. It's up and running, but pictures will be up Friday when I get a fan controller and have the cables organized.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Fractal shipped me a replacement front power switch, will take nice pics of the case interior then.


Need pics sooner...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> ^This.
> Or even if its possible to get a mesh pannel as the tabs you have to bend on mine are almost all broken off. Do you think Fractal would sell this part?
> 
> 
> 
> i've sent 3 different emails, and not gotten a response form any of them about purchasing a side panel. so if anyone hears anything definitive on this, let me know.
Click to expand...

I'll PM you with someone at Fractal who helped me withing 3 days.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Core 1000 came today. It's up and running, but pictures will be up Friday when I get a fan controller and have the cables organized.


Can't wait for pictures, I'm in love with the Core 1000. Speaking of which, I should call the guy today that is powder coating mine to find out how it's doing and track down a decent camera to take pictures of it. My room mate and her DSLR are out of country right now


----------



## Shrak

I'm waiting to see yours come together Axipher *-*


----------



## sherlok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i've sent 3 different emails, and not gotten a response form any of them about purchasing a side panel. so if anyone hears anything definitive on this, let me know.


Been talking to a rep about getting a new fan controller (mine makes an electrical wine), so I threw some questions about replacement parts in there as well. We'll see if they get back to me.

The front panel led on the midi is a standard 5mm LED right? Never replaced one before, but I'm thinking about swapping it out for white or orange (not sure what color scheme I'm going for yet).

I moved the front filter to behind one of my front intakes as a sort of...test. Wondering how much dust it'll pick up.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> I'm waiting to see yours come together Axipher *-*


Thanks man, looking forward to your comments


----------



## sherlok

Here's what I got back from support. I asked about being able to obtain spare parts or even alternate (windowed, etc) panels.
Quote:


> As of right now, no. We are hoping to open a parts store in the future but that is still a ways off. The store might have alternative panels but I haven't heard anything on this. Unfortunately we don't have enough spare parts here in North America to be able to accommodate requests other than for RMAs. We do try to support modders as much as possible. Depending on the request we try to help.


The rest of the e-mail was a mix of other things. He mentions that they'll basically replace a panel if you damage it really really badly trying to mod it. But only 1 time.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Just to throw it out there, Newegg will have the Arc Midi as the 'Shellshocker' for only $70, and most likely free shipping!
Awesome deal









http://www.mailboxr.com/2012/04/12/newegg-todays-shell-shocker-deal-previews/


----------



## JDUB_68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> Just to throw it out there, Newegg will have the Arc Midi as the 'Shellshocker' for only $70, and most likely free shipping!
> Awesome deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mailboxr.com/2012/04/12/newegg-todays-shell-shocker-deal-previews/


Awwwwww man... I just bought the Arc Midi. That shell shocker deal would have been pretty nice. Especially now I'm tempted to get an H100 that extra money would be nice...


----------



## thfallen

i am having trouble tracking down a panel for the whole i cut.
i want an opinion i am going to etch the panel but would you all think panting the etching white or leave it sliver look better?


----------



## XFighter899

Hi, can i join to the club ?

Here the pictures of my Fractal Midi with a window and hdd bays mod.
Sorry for the quality taken by LG P970.


----------



## Shepardg

Well, I guess this will be my 1st post, here's to many more and what not.

Just got my FD Mini and got everything configured

i7-3820
16gig low-profile corsair domintaor (1600)
120gig 830series samsung boot drive
Asrock extrem4-m mATX mobo
H70 CPU cooler
GTX580 3gig vs. w/ backplate
OCZ ZX850 power supply
LG blu-ray burner

Still to come, possible GPU upgrade, definetly gonna need a data disk, possible re-do the wiring with some blue paracord mixed into the white (still undecided, as i am somewhat unhappy with OCZ's top of the line PSU being riddled with bad design decisions (can you say 5 capacitors embedded in the 24pin ATX cable ><, and 2 each in the PCI-E's ><)

And i think a black light of some kind , or just another blue light to highlite some of the darker spots of the build.

CANIBEINTHECLUB?


----------



## solsamurai

Very nice and welcome to OCN!







Now use the links in my sig to add your system in yours!


----------



## Michalius

Crosspost from SFF thread.

This is the most current version of my Arc Mini - Arc Advanced. Next step: Gene V for mSATA boot drive. Remove front cage, add an XSPC RX240, and put a 690 or 7990 under water. Also, upgrade all of the fans to BitFenix Spectre Pros as soon as the white blades are available.



*edit* Also old pic of the outside for folks who may have missed it. Excuse the bad lighting.


----------



## ROM3000

For you Arc Midi owners, is there anyway to mount a 120mm fan in the front? Thanks.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> For you Arc Midi owners, is there anyway to mount a 120mm fan in the front? Thanks.


The front part has clips rather than holes for screws. Seems like the only way to put a 120mm in the front is the stick it somehow with doublesided tape or something like that.


----------



## axipher

Well Fractal Design is absolutely amazing.

One of my case feet has been damaged since day one and my HDD LED doesn't work. I had emailed Fractal Design Support requesting detailed drawings of the Design Core 1000 for modding purposes but sadly they can't disclose that information. So I went ahead to ask about replacement parts while I had the attention of a Support member in an email thread.

After giving him a link to my build log and asking nicely for the parts and an extra set of HDD grommets to mount a third HDD, they are going to send some free of charge









So EVGA, Corsair, and Fractal are the first 3 companies I can officially say are absolutely amazing for Customer Service and that alone makes me a customer of theirs for life.


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> The front part has clips rather than holes for screws. Seems like the only way to put a 120mm in the front is the stick it somehow with doublesided tape or something like that.


Thanks. I ask because I wanted to mount a radiator for my graphics card there, but I think I'll just mount it in the bottom then. That should work nicely.


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Well Fractal Design is absolutely amazing.
> One of my case feet has been damaged since day one and my HDD LED doesn't work. I had emailed Fractal Design Support requesting detailed drawings of the Design Core 1000 for modding purposes but sadly they can't disclose that information. So I went ahead to ask about replacement parts while I had the attention of a Support member in an email thread.
> After giving him a link to my build log and asking nicely for the parts and an extra set of HDD grommets to mount a third HDD, they are going to send some free of charge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So EVGA, Corsair, and Fractal are the first 3 companies I can officially say are absolutely amazing for Customer Service and that alone makes me a customer of theirs for life.


Fractal customer support rocks.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Thanks. I ask because I wanted to mount a radiator for my graphics card there, but I think I'll just mount it in the bottom then. That should work nicely.


You can stand up a 140.2 radiator in the front if you take out both HDD cages. That's what I'll do eventually... I'll probably end up using an Alphacool NexXxos UT60 120.2 up top to start then a Black Ice SR1 140.2 in the front. Also, you could still use 140mm fans in the front but attach a 120.2 radiator to them using something like this. I'm using one right now for my H50 and it works like a freakin' champ. Kind of acts like a shroud, too.


----------



## ampy60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XFighter899*
> 
> Hi, can i join to the club ?
> Here the pictures of my Fractal Midi with a window and hdd bays mod.
> Sorry for the quality taken by LG P970.


I like this design window much better than the typical U-channel and tapped in window. Do you have a build log or tutorial? Maybe you could just explain it to me. It looks much more factory and I love it. Just ordered my Midi on newegg's shell shocker and plan on doing a window as well.


----------



## sammkv

I love the look on those cases guys! Next case will be a fractal for sure.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> I like this design window much better than the typical U-channel and tapped in window. Do you have a build log or tutorial? Maybe you could just explain it to me. It looks much more facty and I love it. Just ordered my Midi on newegg's shell shocker and plan on doing a window as well.


I agree, I much prefer the bolt-on window style versus the U channel


----------



## Shrak

I personally like bolted in ones aswell... Just from the inside instead! Just looks cleaner when the window is inside rather than out.


----------



## macarule

Recently received 2 Noiseblocker (PK-2 & PK-3) 140mm fans for the front of my Midi for free from a very Generous member on here. there was Quite a bit difference between the stock fans and the Noiseblockers







so now all fans except 1 XSPC fan are all Noiseblockers, will get pics up tomorrow sometime


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Recently received 2 Noiseblocker (PK-2 & PK-3) 140mm fans for the front of my Midi for free from a very Generous member on here. there was Quite a bit difference between the stock fans and the Noiseblockers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so now all fans except 1 XSPC fan are all Noiseblockers, will get pics up tomorrow sometime


I also swapped out my stock FD fans for 3 Noiseblockers...and now I walk in my office and have to look at the LED to ensure that my PC is actually on...and that's with a "meshy" Arc Mini.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> have to look at the LED to ensure that my PC is actually on


Like snotty-nosed little brats......computers "can" be seen.....but who want's to hear them ?

_Quieter is totally cooler than noisy *snorts*_


----------



## XFighter899

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> I like this design window much better than the typical U-channel and tapped in window. Do you have a build log or tutorial? Maybe you could just explain it to me. It looks much more factory and I love it. Just ordered my Midi on newegg's shell shocker and plan on doing a window as well.


Sorry i cant explain to you as was done since the cut and acrylic was a work from friends (expertise modders) the design of the cut was made by me,
if you are interested i can send you the drawing in PDF of AutoCad with measurements.









By the way the bolts used on window are M4x8 countersunk screw http://blacksocketcaps.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=74_76


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Like snotty-nosed little brats......computers "can" be seen.....but who want's to hear them ?
> _Quieter is totally cooler than noisy *snorts*_


Exactly


----------



## XFighter899

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> I also swapped out my stock FD fans for 3 Noiseblockers...and now I walk in my office and have to look at the LED to ensure that my PC is actually on...and that's with a "meshy" Arc Mini.


I also like to swap the stock fans im in doubt with which the 140mm noiseblockers or the new revealed fractal silent series R2 with hydro bearings http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=4&prod=19


----------



## MME1122

Hey Fractal club! I'm looking into a Fractal case for the summer and I've got a few questions so I thought this would be a good place to start.

Basically I'm looking at either the define r3, define mini, ard midi, or arc mini. I eventually want to fit 2 240mm (or 2 280mm) rads in. I'm thinking the best way to go is to put one in the top and the other in the bottom. For the bottom, I would remove a few of the lower hard drive cages and put it in front of the psu, cutting a hole in the bottom. I'm hoping to keep the clean look of the case.

For each of the cases, will a 240 rad fit in front of the psu? I'm thinking of a corsair ax series, all of which are ~160mm, then room for the cables to come out. I'm hoping to fit push/pull, to ~50mm for both sets of fans then the thickness of the rad.
I believe the arc midi is specifically designed for a 240 rad in the top, but how about the others? Will it fit over the motherboard and such? The define mini is the only one without 2 120mm vents, I would cut a hole and use a new grill. Again, hoping to fit push/pull.
Finally, if I buy an arc series case, and I buy the define front panel and put it on? I really like the look of that front panel. If I don't buy a define I will probably add my own acoustic foam.
Last question: Is the define really that bad with cooling? I hear the door severely limits the front fan's intake. If the front panel is that much of a problem, will adding the side fan be sufficient? I think the other option is to use the bottom rad setup as intake.

Thanks for any feedback, I emailed Fractal too. I let you guys know what they say if you're interested.


----------



## Stompy

Define front panels will not work with Arc chassis, because the size is different (both width and height).

It will be a lot easier to watercool the Arc midi, than it would be to add rads to a Define. The whole point of the Define is quiet air cooling.
Since water loops with large rads can be run much quieter than air coolers on CPUs and GPUs, i don't quite see why you would want to sound dampen the case anyway. Optics are nicer on the Defines, though. Another reason why i got myself an R3.









Push-Pull will probably not work for a top mounted rad in any of the Defines. Ram and MB-heatsink clearance will put a stop to that. In the R3, there are about 30mm of space between the edge of the motherboard and the top of the case.

No matter which case, if you are going to take out the HDD cages, why not put the rad in the front? Less dust and you don't need to cut holes into the case.

The Defines are not bad with cooling, considering they are closed cases designed for quiet systems. You need to make use of the optional fan slots though. Which is why the Defines show bad cooling performance in "reviews" where they only use the two stock fans. Someone on this forum put an overclocked quadcore and 2x 7950 at stock clocks into a Define Mini and it works nicely.
The only thing i would be hesitant to put into a Define is a system with more than one overclocked graphics card on top of the overclocked CPU.


----------



## Futzy

I'm thinking of picking up a R3 for my venture back into desktops. I looked over this review, and a side intake + rear exhaust seems to be the best set up for two fans.

I'm planning to get a 3570K (overclocking to whatever yields the best temp/perf) with a 212+ evo, and 660ti if that comes out next month or June.
Would I be able to fit a side fan in there with the 212, and would it be best to pick up some noiseblockers, loons, or Fractal's new fans to replace the stock ones that come with the R3 and 212?
I want it to be quiet but can't have it running hot of course, since I want this build to last about 3-4 years. Rest of what I want in there is in my sig.


----------



## MME1122

Hmm...lots of good info. At first I really liked the arc midi but lately I'm leaning towards the define because of the looks. 30mm sounds like enough for a single set of fans, or a rad with no fans, which wouldn't be any good. A single 120mm rad in the back might be enough for the cpu if I can put a 240mm in the bottom.

I need some of the hard drive bays, the plan was to only remove the bottom half. I'm planning on 2-4 hard drives and 1 or 2 SSDs...along with a fan controller and a disk drive.

Can I fit a 240 into the bottom of a Define mini? If I can do that, I might go with the smaller case and put a 120mm in the back for the cpu.

Futzy, those specs are similar to what I want to do. So far Ivy isn't looking much better than Sandy, so right now I think I going with a 2600K or 2700K, depending on price. And if I go mATX, the Assu P8Z77 one..I forget the actual name.

From reviews I've read, the stock fractal fans aren't too bad, but you can certainly do better. I plan on replacing the,.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

The top HDD/SDD drive chassis is removable in the Arc series. You'll have to remove rivets to pull the bottom one. neither are (easily) removable in an R3. This is what it looks like with the top one removed (in an Arc Mini):


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XFighter899*
> 
> I also like to swap the stock fans im in doubt with which the 140mm noiseblockers or the new revealed fractal silent series R2 with hydro bearings http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=4&prod=19


I'm excited about these, but waiting for reviews as usual.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> The top HDD/SDD drive chassis is removable in the Arc series. You'll have to remove rivets to pull the bottom one. neither are (easily) removable in an R3. This is what it looks like with the top one removed (in an Arc Mini):


You can do this on a Core 3000 too !


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> You can do this on a Core 3000 too !


Yes...and in both the Define XL and the Define Mini...but not the R3. I have never understand that decision. Makes me think that an R4 is long overdue. If a future R4 had a removable top cage and was just a bit wider to provide more space behind the MB, it would be fairly awesome.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Yes...and in both the Define XL and the Define Mini...but not the R3. I have never understand that decision. Makes me think that an R4 is long overdue. If a future R4 had a removable top cage and was just a bit wider to provide more space behind the MB, it would be fairly awesome.


you can just repaint the arc midi and put foam on the panels)


----------



## thfallen

reworked my xl today.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2182658/width/600/height/338[/IMG][/URL]
> reworked my xl today.


Deff looking better.









Compare what others have done, to get a more references or ideas

Be very open to change or enhancements...... to improve as you progress.

If you're gonna post pics, you must find yourself a better camera than
the one you're currently using. [that's to your advantage]


----------



## Shrak

This is one of my favorite XL water cooling builds I've seen and liked.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?265767-Fractal-Design-s-Define-XL-REDEFINED!!!-%28and-LC-d!%29

They kept it really clean and really simple, keeps with the look of the case really nicely imo.


----------



## thfallen

ya i am stuck with my phone for now.
i got a small 120 raid that i am trying to figure out how to mount now.
and i found my good camera now to dig out the tripod.


----------



## FractalDesign

Hey just wanted to show my rig and want to knwoe what you think









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JDUB_68

How come people mount their heatsinks vertically? I thought it'd be pretty obvious that as the GPU heats up you're just pulling in warmer air up through the heatsink?

I didn't research it extensively but this guy did a test of it and saw a 2-4 degree difference with GPU only idling...

http://www.overclock.net/t/766461/an-examination-of-heatsink-position-horizontal-or-vertical-results-are-in


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> 
> reworked my xl today.


weirdest placing of the tank ever. and why is your tubing in random colors?


----------



## JDUB_68

Really doesn't seem like the XL is for water cooling.... Looks challenging.


----------



## thfallen

i have to get some new tubing its what i had laying around and the tank because the drive bays are all used.


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> How come people mount their heatsinks vertically? I thought it'd be pretty obvious that as the GPU heats up you're just pulling in warmer air up through the heatsink?
> I didn't research it extensively but this guy did a test of it and saw a 2-4 degree difference with GPU only idling...
> http://www.overclock.net/t/766461/an-examination-of-heatsink-position-horizontal-or-vertical-results-are-in


I´ve done some testing with many fan directions. I came to the conclusion that the GPU has 10°C less then with the conventional way and the cpu heat rises jus 2°C I thought that it is the best way of doing things








I also had problems with the RAM and the MUGEN2 :// which is anpther reason I went this way.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalDesign*
> 
> Hey just wanted to show my rig and want to knwoe what you think


Good one. It seems like you have put quite a lot of money into Be Quiet! products.









I would advise to mount the cooler horizontally. Fractal fans aren't meant for heatsinks, you should use it as case fan instead.
Use the Be Quiet! fans on top as Push/Pull on the heatsink, it will lead to a front->rear air movement. Having top exhaust isn't really useful actually ("hot air rises" phenomenon is way negligible and top exhaust doesn't help CPU temps). Drill the rear fan grill would also improve exhaust.

Edit: just saw your post. Nevermind but I do still think that the Fractal fan should not be on the heatsink.


----------



## JDUB_68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FractalDesign*
> 
> I´ve done some testing with many fan directions. I came to the conclusion that the GPU has 10°C less then with the conventional way and the cpu heat rises jus 2°C I thought that it is the best way of doing things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had problems with the RAM and the MUGEN2 :// which is anpther reason I went this way.


Yeh that heatsink is massive, guess you've gotta do what you can.

So you're saying it acted as an exhaust for the GPU?


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Good one. It seems like you have put quite a lot of money into Be Quiet! products.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would advise to mount the cooler horizontally. Fractal fans aren't meant for heatsinks, you should use it as case fan instead.
> Use the Be Quiet! fans on top as Push/Pull on the heatsink, it will lead to a front->rear air movement. Having top exhaust isn't really useful actually ("hot air rises" phenomenon is way negligible and top exhaust doesn't help CPU temps). Drill the rear fan grill would also improve exhaust.
> Edit: just saw your post. Nevermind but I do still think that the Fractal fan should be on the heatsink.


Yeah mate I put a lot money int bequiet! bur I got a good friend there








I know that Fractal Fans arent made for headsink but I´m actually waiting for 2 Silent wings2 for Push Pull DD
I also think about a change to Arc Mid for Watercooling and let my server get a R3


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> Yeh that heatsink is massive, guess you've gotta do what you can.
> So you're saying it acted as an exhaust for the GPU?


Yeah exactly! and because I have no side fan and the 570 is non reference it gets lots better Temps at all


----------



## Hasdrubal

I've finally changed the CPU fan from a stock Cooler Master to a Nexus Real Silent PWM fan. Look gets worse, but silence is better












I'm debating a graphic card update for next year, with an objective of watercooling the GPU only as it's by far the noisiest component in the system under load. I've been thinking of installing a 240 mm rad in the top placement, would that be a good idea or would it interfere with CPU cooling?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

If you're going to water cool just the GPU I'd probably put a rad in the front to avoid compatibility issues.

But I would just water cool both CPU and GPU, then you could have a 240 up top and a 250/280 up front but I'm inexperienced with water cooling.

If you want to cut down the noise of your GPU then buy an Accelero Xtreme cooler.

Just a thought.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasdrubal*
> 
> I've finally changed the CPU fan from a stock Cooler Master to a Nexus Real Silent PWM fan. Look gets worse, but silence is better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snippy McSnipperson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I
> 
> 
> 'm debating a graphic card update for next year, with an objective of watercooling the GPU only as it's by far the noisiest component in the system under load. I've been thinking of installing a 240 mm rad in the top placement, would that be a good idea or would it interfere with CPU cooling?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> If you're going to water cool just the GPU I'd probably put a rad in the front to avoid compatibility issues.
> But I would just water cool both CPU and GPU, then you could have a 240 up top and a 250/280 up front but I'm inexperienced with water cooling.
> If you want to cut down the noise of your GPU then buy an Accelero Xtreme cooler.
> Just a thought.


I agree with Vulgar, GPU rad in front would be easiest for a GPU only loop. You can fit a 120.2 rad up top without any mods and if you remove the HDD cages (minor modding) you can stand up a 140.2 rad in the front. Now I'm not sure if you can still fit that 120.2 rad up top *and* have a tower cooler for your CPU, my guess would be there isn't enough room for both, probably not even a low profile CPU cooler. Think of this, though: to add a CPU block to your GPU loop wouldn't be much more than just doing the GPU loop alone. All the basic hardware would be the same, the only difference would be a couple more fittings and the CPU block itself. At that point, you might as well just go all in, right?


----------



## Sixt

Not finished yet tho.


----------



## LazarusIV

Dang Sixt, that's lookin' super nice. Well done man!


----------



## Sixt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Dang Sixt, that's lookin' super nice. Well done man!


Thank you man


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixt*
> 
> Thank you man


No problem. I'm wanting to do something very similar with my Arc Midi but instead of a bay res I'll use a pump / cylinder res combo. Is that a 140.2 you have standing up front and a 120.2 up top? Did you research at all to see if you could fit a 140.2 up top? I have yet to do measurements and such but I'm somewhat hopeful. If I can't then no worries


----------



## elzhi

well this was shorter than i expected, i sold my R3, and now i own a Corsair 550D.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elzhi*
> 
> well this was shorter than i expected, i sold my R3, and now i own a Corsair 550D.


What did the 550D have that the R3 didn't?


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elzhi*
> 
> well this was shorter than i expected.


How could it possibly be shorter ????









*The SPECS are clearly listed in any Fractal literature*


----------



## OverClocker55

Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Full Tower Silent PC Computer Case - $99 with promo
Code: EMCYTZT1469
Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352017&Tpk=11-352-017&nm_mc=EMC-GD041612&cm_mmc=EMC-GD041612-_-index-_-Item-_-11-352-017


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sixt*
> 
> Not finished yet tho.


Which fans are on the top ? Stock Fractal ones that came with the case ?

Looks nice BTW.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> What did the 550D have that the R3 didn't?


A door that swings both ways?


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Full Tower Silent PC Computer Case - $99 with promo
> Code: EMCYTZT1469
> Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352017&Tpk=11-352-017&nm_mc=EMC-GD041612&cm_mmc=EMC-GD041612-_-index-_-Item-_-11-352-017


God damn that is a good deal.


----------



## 1rkrage

convince me to get the Define XL for my server case instead of my el cheapo NZXT Gamma


----------



## Sixt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Where fans are on the top ? Stock Fractal ones that came with the case ?
> Looks nice BTW.


Yes, and they are controlled with a fan-controller. They are really quiet aswell


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> convince me to get the Define XL for my server case instead of my el cheapo NZXT Gamma


doooo it


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> convince me to get the Define XL for my server case instead of my el cheapo NZXT Gamma


easy, the define has a higher area for hard drives and looks better. why would you want a server case with a irregular shaped front. another benefit is a quieter case as i wouldn't want the server making too much noise.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> easy, the define has a higher area for hard drives and looks better. why would you want a server case with a irregular shaped front. another benefit is a quieter case as i wouldn't want the server making too much noise.












sounds good to me. Ordering in a few







:

_shut up credit card. you're not even halfway to maxed







_


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> convince me to get the Define XL for my server case instead of my el cheapo NZXT Gamma


The Define XL is quiet, sturdy, and looks awesome.


----------



## darksen

IN THE CLUB~


----------



## ampy60

Well I got my Arc Midi a couple days ago from Newegg's $70 shell shocker. Waiting on some Z77 hardware that will be here tomorrow as well as a GTX 680 and i7 3770k that don't know they're on their way yet. But first things first....This thing needs a window.



I'm really pleased with how it turned out, especially it being my first case mod ever. The only thing that is a bumber is I switched tools halfway though and created some scratches in an area that wasn't masked because it wasn't needed to be initially.


----------



## drka0tic

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> Well I got my Arc Midi a couple days ago from Newegg's $70 shell shocker. Waiting on some Z77 hardware that will be here tomorrow as well as a GTX 680 and i7 3770k that don't know they're on their way yet. But first things first....This thing needs a window.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really pleased with how it turned out, especially it being my first case mod ever. The only thing that is a bumber is I switched tools halfway though and created some scratches in an area that wasn't masked because it wasn't needed to be initially.






Great job! Is the acrylic window installed yet, I can hardly notice it.

What size template did you use?


----------



## ampy60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Great job! Is the acrylic window installed yet, I can hardly notice it.
> What size template did you use?


Yes it is in. the template is 10 by just under 14 viewable leaving 1" around the outside inside for securing. making sure to leave room up top bottom for the case frame and then centered between HDD cage and back of the case. I also routed the edge inside to make a recess the thickness of the 2 face tape I used resulting in a 0 gap between the case panel and the window.


----------



## j dub

Heres my XL under water!


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j dub*
> 
> Heres my XL under water!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


w00t, you painted it white? What about the front bezel? That one you can't just spray, can you? :|

In the spirit of things I decided to give my windows 7 a little treat and redo the desktop area in the Fractal Design spirit ;D










more details and bigger view (kinda hard to see details when the picture is squeezed by the forum) :

http://adi518.deviantart.com/art/Asdesign-Fractal-Design-WIP-Theme-296734424


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> w00t, you painted it white? What about the front bezel? That one you can't just spray, can you? :|
> In the spirit of things I decided to give my windows 7 a little treat and redo the desktop area in the Fractal Design spirit ;D
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks awesome! That all custom doodads?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> That looks awesome! That all custom doodads?


I'm putting it together using bunch of things I found on Deviant Art database and some Photoshop. I will soon put in more details, links and whatnot on the Deviation page.


----------



## thfallen

j dub did you cut out the drive bays on the bottom? if so did you test if the raid would fit with out cutting them out. I got a 240 right there and was wondering if a 360 would fit with out cutting them out?

And its nice.


----------



## JDUB_68

Does anybody know off the top of their heads if an NZXT 200mm (actually 192mm) fan will fit on the side panel for the Arc Midi? I have a couple laying around, wondering what people do when fitting fans in places they aren't designed for... I'm thinking of maybe putting one on the top of the case directly above the cpu as well.

Any random ideas on ways to make it fit would be awesome!


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> Does anybody know off the top of their heads if an NZXT 200mm (actually 192mm) fan will fit on the side panel for the Arc Midi? I have a couple laying around, wondering what people do when fitting fans in places they aren't designed for... I'm thinking of maybe putting one on the top of the case directly above the cpu as well.
> Any random ideas on ways to make it fit would be awesome!


The holes on the Midi are for 180mm. You would have to drill 4 new holes and mabey have to make spacers as the holes that are there already bulge in the way slightly.

The top should be easy as it is almost all mesh and hidden. You have to drill some new holes each side of the mesh but its all flush so would be easy to mount. Can't see any clearance issues as a standard thickness fan easily clears anything on the motherboard. The only thing you would need to be careful about is that you don't interfer with the plastic parts of the top filter panel that slide in to hold it on.


----------



## Gama360

This is my first build so be gentel's








HardWare:
G620
Scythe Shuriken Rev.B
Msi H61M-E23 B3
4GB Ram - 1 Stick For Easy Upgrade Later
M4 64GB SSD
500GB SeaGate HDD
Msi Gtx460 - 2GB
SS S430
Fractal Design Core 1000

Pic:





I'm Very Happy With The Result


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gama360*
> 
> This is my first build so be gentel's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HardWare:
> G620
> Scythe Shuriken Rev.B
> Msi H61M-E23 B3
> 4GB Ram - 1 Stick For Easy Upgrade Later
> M4 64GB SSD
> 500GB SeaGate HDD
> Msi Gtx460 - 2GB
> SS S430
> Fractal Design Core 1000
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm Very Happy With The Result


Looks great









Just a quick tip, you can probably shove the PSU cables in the second 5.25" slot and run them through the cutout in the bottom of the 5.25" area.

And massive update on my Design Core 1000:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000/150_50#post_17029140


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gama360*
> 
> I'm Very Happy With The Result


Very nice, you won't be disappointed with the G620 !


----------



## lurker2501

finally added lighting! yay


----------



## Fear Before

Nice build Gama, sweet updates axipher, and nice lights lurker









Did a little cable management today. Suggetions welcomed.


Also was wondering if anyone had any advice for my exhaust fans cable. I was thinking of maybe running it through the little hole on the back of the case then drilling a hole on the bottom of the I/O shield and running it through there. Might make it a little cleaner. Any thoughts?


----------



## joeyck

Lovely cases


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Nice build Gama, sweet updates axipher, and nice lights lurker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did a little cable management today. Suggetions welcomed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also was wondering if anyone had any advice for my exhaust fans cable. I was thinking of maybe running it through the little hole on the back of the case then drilling a hole on the bottom of the I/O shield and running it through there. Might make it a little cleaner. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


And 3 Design Core 1000's out of nowhere









As for your exhaust fan cable, where are all your fan headers on the motherboard?


----------



## Fear Before

Only have two. One at the top which I use for the front fan and then that one below the cpu cooler.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Only have two. One at the top which I use for the front fan and then that one below the cpu cooler.


What I did was run the exhaust fan cable through that little hole above the motherboard right below the PSU around the back side to a fan controller.


----------



## Kaneda13

Been working on some mods all week, got the last fan painted last night, and finished soldering the new lights up, whata ya think?





































i'll try to get some pics tonight when it's dark


----------



## stellar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Been working on some mods all week, got the last fan painted last night, and finished soldering the new lights up, whata ya think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll try to get some pics tonight when it's dark


Beautiful setup! I'm gotta post my midi soon too.

How do you have your fans setup? Is the air going in from the top front and out the back/side/bottom?


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Opinions needed. Adding a window to my Arc Midi. Firstly should i go with round or square corners? and secondly should i stick to a basic clean square shape, or get creative?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellar*
> 
> Beautiful setup! I'm gotta post my midi soon too.
> How do you have your fans setup? Is the air going in from the top front and out the back/side/bottom?


in at the top, front and bottom, out at the back. there are enough vents at the back i can feel air forcing out through theses as well.


----------



## Airrick10

I'd like to join the club! I got my Arc Midi this past week and here are some pics


----------



## ampy60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Been working on some mods all week, got the last fan painted last night, and finished soldering the new lights up, whata ya think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'll try to get some pics tonight when it's dark


What kind of temperatures are you getting out of just 1 240 rad? What rad? and what components are under those blocks?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> What kind of temperatures are you getting out of just 1 240 rad? What rad? and what components are under those blocks?


Very good temps, i'll post a pic. It's an XSPC RS240 rad cooling an i7 860 at 3.36GHz and a stock speed GTX470.

This was taken on a cold boot, waited 1 minute, and ran 3DMark06, then screen captured as soon as ti was done.










i'm playing SWTOR at the moment, here's a screen shot:


----------



## ampy60

What fans are you using? How about Prime or loops of 3d mark over time, or firmark?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> What fans are you using? How about Prime or loops of 3d mark over time, or firmark?


my Radiator has 2 of these, the 2 front intake and bottom intake are these, and the rear exhaust is this. All the fans except the radiator ones have been painted white. I still haven't run Prime loop, but running BOINC on both CPU 100% and GPU 100%, my GPU caps at 40*C and my CPU gets to about 50*C.


----------



## ampy60

Damn, that's nice. Doesn't seem like one RS240 would be able to keep up with that. Is it loud at all?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> Damn, that's nice. Doesn't seem like one RS240 would be able to keep up with that. Is it loud at all?


no, it's just a quite hum of the air rushing past the rad fanson the top.


----------



## cgg123321

Hi everyone, I have a Define R2 and am wondering if the Thermalright Archon will fit my case (with the 140mm fans).

Cheers!


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Opinions needed. Adding a window to my Arc Midi. Firstly should i go with round or square corners? and secondly should i stick to a basic clean square shape, or get creative?


Before you go cutting into your case side, might I suggest you have a look at this mod.

I think this looks really nice and allows you to keep your side intact


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Before you go cutting into your case side, might I suggest you have a look at this mod.
> I think this looks really nice and allows you to keep your side intact


Thanks for posting this up!!! It looks beast!!! +1 Rep


----------



## Ramsey77

Doing this with a real piece of hardened tinted glass. Will post pics eventually.


----------



## gceclifton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgg123321*
> 
> Hi everyone, I have a Define R2 and am wondering if the Thermalright Archon will fit my case (with the 140mm fans).
> 
> Cheers!


Probably not... The Archon is 170mm tall IIRC, my macho JUST fits at ~165mm

I decided not to risk it when looking for my own cooling solutions, I would have preferred it though







(I have a Define R3)


----------



## AbdullahG

After dealing with Amazon about my lost fan controller, I finally got it not too long ago.
Here's one a pic; need some advice on cable management.
First time using a modular PSU, and for some reason, I organize better with a non-modular PSU...

Once I upgrade, I am DEFINITELY considering board layout; this Biostar MoBo I bought as a replacement for an OEM has such a horrible layout when it comes to cable and fan connectors.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> After dealing with Amazon about my lost fan controller, I finally got it not too long ago.
> Here's one a pic; need some advice on cable management.
> First time using a modular PSU, and for some reason, I organize better with a non-modular PSU...
> 
> Once I upgrade, I am DEFINITELY considering board layout; this Biostar MoBo I bought as a replacement for an OEM has such a horrible layout when it comes to cable and fan connectors.


not so much about board layout it's just that this particular case model has quite poor cable management options no matter which psu u use. modular psu are only good with cases that have good cable management otherwise there's no point in buying one.


----------



## AbdullahG

I don't know, Axipher was able to do really well with hiding cables in his Core 1000.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> not so much about board layout it's just that this particular case model has quite poor cable management options no matter which psu u use. modular psu are only good with cases that have good cable management otherwise there's no point in buying one.


Yes...but that is pretty much known going in. It's less than half the cost of an Arc or Define. It has no cutouts in the MB tray for a CPU cooler or grommetted cable pass throughs. No removable drive cage. Still though, it's a nice case...and as long as cables aren't interfering with your airflow, everything else is just cabling OCD....so seal it up and enjoy!


----------



## JDUB_68

Here is my Arc Midi with an NZXT 200mm fan mounted on the top, with the grill on the top of the case, mounting the fan was pretty easy. Also lucky that it matches the Fractal fan color scheme.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Yes...but that is pretty much known going in. It's less than half the cost of an Arc or Define. It has no cutouts in the MB tray for a CPU cooler or grommetted cable pass throughs. No removable drive cage. Still though, it's a nice case...and as long as cables aren't interfering with your airflow, everything else is just cabling OCD....so seal it up and enjoy!


Not that crazy about cM to have an OCD about it Actually at some point, i was considering buying this case, but the fact that it's a mAtx just didn't work for me. What i would do if i had it is just drill out the depressions on the motherboard tray and use them as cable management holes to properly route the cables.


----------



## macarule

do i have an OCD with cables?








Heres the ARC with NB PK-2/3


----------



## AbdullahG

I think I'm just paranoid about the cables; even though I cannot see them, it just bothers me that they are there...
The lack of zipties doesn't make it any easier.


----------



## axipher

New Update









My Design core 1000 came back from the powder-coater today. Got it done in a white gloss. Also updated my build log with more pictures.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000/200_50#post_17050018


----------



## macarule

Awesome!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome!


Thanks


----------



## AbdullahG

MOAR PICS


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> MOAR PICS


Haha, soon my friend, soon


----------



## macarule

Why not now?


----------



## 1rkrage

my Define XL is coming in today










tested out parts yesterday, so my file server should be good to go tonight


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> my Define XL is coming in today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tested out parts yesterday, so my file server should be good to go tonight


awesome!!! wish i could get the XL for my server.... oh well. mine needs more hdd's first


----------



## avaya

Having a hard time finding this info- has anyone been able to fit a silver arrow cpu cooler in a define mini? The specs for silver arrow make it look like it will barely fit, but I read the same height with or without the fan which, based on the silver arrow picture, doesn't appear correct. If not, anyone have a suggestion for a huge processor heat sync? I'd like to get as much overclock as possible while still keeping the fans around 1200 rpm or less.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> New Update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Design core 1000 came back from the powder-coater today. Got it done in a white gloss. Also updated my build log with more pictures.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000/200_50#post_17050018


Absolutely beautiful.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avaya*
> 
> Having a hard time finding this info- has anyone been able to fit a silver arrow cpu cooler in a define mini? The specs for silver arrow make it look like it will barely fit, but I read the same height with or without the fan which, based on the silver arrow picture, doesn't appear correct. If not, anyone have a suggestion for a huge processor heat sync? I'd like to get as much overclock as possible while still keeping the fans around 1200 rpm or less.


Seems unlikely...at least without removing foam.

The Define Mini has an advertised supported cooler height of 160mm...but folks with the 158.5mm tall Hyper 212 Plus claim that even that cooler leaves an indentation in the acoustic foam.

The advertised height of the Silver Arrow is 163mm (without fans). That is the height listed on the specs page schematic. Their main page states 160mm, but there is no way that is true. The fans themselves are 160mm tall, but perhaps they do not exceed the height of the heatpipes. Even so, I don't see how it would fit without removing foam...or modding the case. You would have 5mm more to play with in an Arc Mini. This is actually one of the reasons that I went with the Arc instead of the Define. The other issue was the room behind the MB tray, which is cut down in the Define due (again) to the foam.

It also looks like the fans would overlap the memory significantly on most mATX MBs...so it's low-profile or losing at least one if not two slots.

It's a heck of a cooler, but frankly, most folks can get by with something other than top of the line. Example, my 212 EVO keeps my mildly overclocked system chilly (at 900 RPM dynamic)...and still allows me to use all four memory slots without modifying heat sinks...or needing to wrap fan clips in electrical tape to avoid shorting out my GPU.

Just sayin'









cheers,
Scuba


----------



## avaya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Seems unlikely...at least without removing foam.
> The Define Mini has an advertised supported cooler height of 160mm...but folks with the 158.5mm tall Hyper 212 Plus claim that even that cooler leaves an indentation in the acoustic foam.
> The advertised height of the Silver Arrow is 163mm (without fans). That is the height listed on the specs page schematic. Their main page states 160mm, but there is no way that is true. The fans themselves are 160mm tall, but perhaps they do not exceed the height of the heatpipes. Even so, I don't see how it would fit without removing foam...or modding the case. You would have 5mm more to play with in an Arc Mini. This is actually one of the reasons that I went with the Arc instead of the Define. The other issue was the room behind the MB tray, which is cut down in the Define due (again) to the foam.
> It also looks like the fans would overlap the memory significantly on most mATX MBs...so it's low-profile or losing at least one if not two slots.
> It's a heck of a cooler, but frankly, most folks can get by with something other than top of the line. Example, my 212 EVO keeps my mildly overclocked system chilly (at 900 RPM dynamic)...and still allows me to use all four memory slots without modifying heat sinks...or needing to wrap fan clips in electrical tape to avoid shorting out my GPU.
> Just sayin'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers,
> Scuba


Thanks for the info +rep

Might try the side mounted Phantek TC14 with low profile ram, although my rampage V gene is not list on phantek's compatible mobo list :\


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Before you go cutting into your case side, might I suggest you have a look at this mod.
> I think this looks really nice and allows you to keep your side intact


I have my glass for my side panel, but it's not dark enough so I am going to get it tinted tomorrow (I want it to be piano black when the LED's are off). I have my glue coming from Amazon, and my neodymium 1/2" x 1/16" magnets coming from Ebay. So by this weekend, I should have something to show ya.....









Edit: I am actually tossing the idea of doing all the exterior panels in tempered glass, including the top. (except the front of course).

Glass: $12
Tint: $15
Glue: $6
Magnets: $10

$43 side panel of real glass. I wonder how many magnets i will need? I think i will start out with 4, those suckers are pretty strong!


----------



## j dub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> j dub did you cut out the drive bays on the bottom? if so did you test if the raid would fit with out cutting them out. I got a 240 right there and was wondering if a 360 would fit with out cutting them out?
> And its nice.


Not sure how I missed this. Sorry for the delay! I drilled out the rivets to get the bays out. The 360 would not fit with them there.


----------



## rubicsphere

Here is my latest build with the Core 1000 it's my sig rig:



And then my GTX 680 came in:


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Here is my latest build with the Core 1000 it's my sig rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then my GTX 680 came in:


Very nice...and congrats. Now, just figure out how to get those cables out of the airflow path.


----------



## cgg123321

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cgg123321*
> 
> Hi everyone, I have a Define R2 and am wondering if the Thermalright Archon will fit my case (with the 140mm fans).
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> Probably not... The Archon is 170mm tall IIRC, my macho JUST fits at ~165mm
> 
> I decided not to risk it when looking for my own cooling solutions, I would have preferred it though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I have a Define R3)
Click to expand...

Aw man..I have the chance to pick up an archon with dual 140mm fans for $40!

Ah well, thanks for the heads up!


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Here is my latest build with the Core 1000 it's my sig rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then my GTX 680 came in:


Nice, how do you like the Bitfenix Spectre ?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> New Update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Design core 1000 came back from the powder-coater today. Got it done in a white gloss. Also updated my build log with more pictures.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000/200_50#post_17050018
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely beautiful.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, always appreciate the kind words









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Here is my latest build with the Core 1000 it's my sig rig:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then my GTX 680 came in:


Looking great man


----------



## avaya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Here is my latest build with the Core 1000 it's my sig rig:
> 
> And then my GTX 680 came in:


I have been looking at that GeminII CPU cooler- How are temps? Do you think that cooler would be a good option for my fractal design arc mini?


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Here is my latest build with the Core 1000 it's my sig rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And then my GTX 680 came in:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking build, though there looks like there's a lot of extra wires/clutter that needs to be under control.
Such high-end parts in a $40 case


----------



## 1rkrage

Hey guys, here's my Fractal Design Define XL Server.



Spoiler: Why I Love Micro Center...











Cable Routing options are not as ideal as I would like. Oh well Challenge Accepted!







The tacky fan cables will have to wait until I grab some extensions. Until then, this is the best I could do for now









I love how roomy this case is though! room for all the hard drives I could possibly fit in the future. If I knew how to mod, this surely would've been a great watercooling case too


----------



## macarule

already posted it in here haha


----------



## Jeci

Has anyone got a prolimatech megahalem to fit in the arc midi?


----------



## Blizlake

Megahalems will fit easily in the midi


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Such high-end parts in a $40 case


Of course !!!!!!!







Smart Guy !!!!!

Someone breaks into his residence , see's the computer and thinks it's a cheapo. All the expensive goodies are safe inside.

Thief leaves with PS3 and 3 ABBA CD's.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Of course !!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smart Guy !!!!!
> Someone breaks into his residence , see's the computer and thinks it's a cheapo. All the expensive goodies are safe inside.
> Thief leaves with PS3 and 3 ABBA CD's.


----------



## ROM3000

Hey everyone. Here's my Arc Midi. Any tips for cable management?


----------



## solsamurai

Remove the unused HDD sleds for better airflow.







Or the entire top HDD cage.


----------



## tantric

update on my core 1000 project. still looking for a fan for the CPU cooler and the PSU still needs to be sleeved


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tantric*
> 
> update on my core 1000 project. still looking for a fan for the CPU cooler and the PSU still needs to be sleeved


Looks real good but you should grab an all-black motherboard to fit the color scheme.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Of course !!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Smart Guy !!!!!
> Someone breaks into his residence , see's the computer and thinks it's a cheapo. All the expensive goodies are safe inside.
> Thief leaves with PS3 and 3 ABBA CD's.


unless the burglars understand in pc's


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> you should grab an all-black motherboard to fit the color scheme.


Really ?

Are we dressing our inards like clothing ? _Form over function ?_

So... if a better MOBO existed, that was purple and green , would
I really pass that up for a black/white model with lesser quality ?

Shouldn't *features/performance/quality* be the most important feature when purchasing a MOBO ?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Are we dressing our inards like clothing ? _Form over function ?_












It seems to me like he bothered having parts in white so I don't see the point of having a mobo which looks like a rainbow... but that's my opinion.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> unless the burglars understand in pc's


Guessing if they were all that bright......probably wouldn't be breaking into houses









But you think a burglar actually would be taking panels off cases to examine its insides ?







_[me thinks you're giving scum too much credit]_


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to me like he bothered having parts in white so I don't see the point of having a mobo which looks like a rainbow... but that's my opinion.


OK ,









So it's more important that the parts are colour matched ? Features & quality are secondary ?


----------



## axipher

Quick tease of my upcoming update to my build log:


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> So it's more important that the parts are colour matched ? Features & quality are secondary ?


What are you trying to prove here ?


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> What are you trying to prove here ?


Nothing really. Not trying to give ya a hard time. Seriously

I'm just amazed somtimes, that fashion plays such an important role in
the constuction of such an industrial product. So it's somtimes interesting
trying to understand what is actually the purpose of a build.

Thus, the fashion over function question -s-


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quick tease of my upcoming update to my build log:


Ya know, that the powder coating process lays down a much more durable surface,
compared to a typical automotive painting style. You should be able to handle the
case without needing to worry about easily scratching the finished work.

Will be following this til completion


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> What are you trying to prove here ?
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing really. Not trying to give ya a hard time. Seriously
> 
> I'm just amazed somtimes, that fashion plays such an important role in
> the constuction of such an industrial product. So it's somtimes interesting
> trying to understand what is actually the purpose of a build.
> 
> Thus, the fashion over function question -s-
Click to expand...

Well in my mind, fashion and functionality are rarely equals as you said. There's a fine line between which side a build ends up taking.

Look at my HTPC for example, I just butchered an OEM PC with a bunch of after market cooling and upgrades to get a beast of a machine in a small package.

On the other hand, my Main rig and my LAN rig had components chosen purely on color scheme. That's not to say they aren't functional though, just the main drive behind the build is a more aesthetic one.

The same applies to most other things though. I just find that having something that looks good shows that you can take the time to really focus on something and see it through. When I see someone with a nice car with every little piece detailed, I tend respect that person because I feel that they truly appreciate the car and care for it.

When I see a car with rusted panels and an exhaust system louder then my grandma when she forgets to wear her hearing aid, I think one of two things: that person has no respect for there possessions, or that person is a mechanic and knows how far he can push the car without it breaking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quick tease of my upcoming update to my build log:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya know, that the powder coating process lays down a much more durable surface,
> compared to a typical automotive painting style. You should be able to handle the
> case without needing to worry about easily scratching the finished work.
> 
> Will be following this til completion
Click to expand...

And thanks man, the finish is beautiful, so strong, and doesn't feel like it's going to chip at all.


----------



## Ramsey77

I also chose products with a color scheme in mind for my newest build. It doesn't necessarily mean that I comprimised quality or cut corners to do so. Thankfully many manufacturers of equipment are finally starting to realize that color choices do play a role when enthusiasts build machines. I agree with the above comment about respecting someone for having a tasteful build/car as it shows that they have some pride in their work. It's an admirable quality to have.


----------



## AbdullahG

God, you make my Core 1000 cry at night for being so ugly.
I need to eventually customize it somehow; once I get the money, I'll get the cables sleeved.
It's the least I can do...


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> When I see a car with rusted panels and an exhaust system louder then my grandma when she forgets to wear her hearing aid, I think one of two things: that person has no respect for there possessions, or that person is a mechanic and knows how far he can push the car without it breaking.
> And thanks man, the finish is beautiful, so strong, and doesn't feel like it's going to chip at all.


3. That man is a poor student that spends all his money on his PC


----------



## ROM3000

Hey, I have removed the top hard drive cage and that did seem to improve air flow. I'm wondering what is the best combination of fans for the Arc Midi. Has anyone done any testing?


----------



## amadnei

anyone where I can buy the Fractak design arc mini ( not midi ) the matx format of midi


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amadnei*
> 
> anyone where I can buy the Fractak design arc mini ( not midi ) the matx format of midi


Sorry bud, couldn't find the Arc Mini online for Canadian residents. NCIX, however, has the Define Mini that you may consider:
http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=58474&vpn=FD-CA-DEF-MINI-BL&manufacture=Fractal%20Design


----------



## thfallen

Has anyone fit a triple 180 on the top of a define XL or a triple 140 on the bottom. i have seen triple 120's down on the bottom .


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Nothing really. Not trying to give ya a hard time. Seriously
> I'm just amazed somtimes, that fashion plays such an important role in
> the constuction of such an industrial product. So it's somtimes interesting
> trying to understand what is actually the purpose of a build.
> Thus, the fashion over function question -s-


There are plenty of mobo's which look good and perform well you know.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> God, you make my Core 1000 cry at night for being so ugly.
> I need to eventually customize it somehow; once I get the money, I'll get the cables sleeved.
> It's the least I can do...


Find someone that does powder-coating, you should be able to get the case done for $40 - $60 like I did in any single color.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> When I see a car with rusted panels and an exhaust system louder then my grandma when she forgets to wear her hearing aid, I think one of two things: that person has no respect for there possessions, or that person is a mechanic and knows how far he can push the car without it breaking.
> And thanks man, the finish is beautiful, so strong, and doesn't feel like it's going to chip at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 3. That man is a poor student that spends all his money on his PC
Click to expand...

Haha, good point









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Nothing really. Not trying to give ya a hard time. Seriously
> I'm just amazed somtimes, that fashion plays such an important role in
> the constuction of such an industrial product. So it's somtimes interesting
> trying to understand what is actually the purpose of a build.
> Thus, the fashion over function question -s-
> 
> 
> 
> There are plenty of mobo's which look good and perform well you know.
Click to expand...

Yep, just need to spend the time looking. Took me forever to find my motherboard.


----------



## ROM3000

Hey everyone. Here are some more pictures of my Midi. I absolutely love how easy it was to assemble. I have actually replaced the side panel with the fan mesh with a second panel without it since I won't be using any fans there. It makes for a much cleaner look personally, and slightly decreased the sound from the equipment.


----------



## ampy60

Build Update:
Showed you guys this a week or so ago.

Then some of my Z77 hardware arrived.



And CPU cooler.


Now I'm just waiting on a 3770k and the right looking GTX 680.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Hey everyone. Here are some more pictures of my Midi. I absolutely love how easy it was to assemble. I have actually replaced the side panel with the fan mesh with a second panel without it since I won't be using any fans there. It makes for a much cleaner look personally, and slightly decreased the sound from the equipment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!!! Where did you get the side panel?


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Nice!!! Where did you get the side panel?


Ordered through Fractal Design


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Ordered through Fractal Design


Sweet! May I ask how much it came out to?


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Sweet! May I ask how much it came out to?


PM sent.


----------



## bortoloj

I'm interested too , how much for the side panel ?


----------



## Ramsey77

How did you get in contact with them? I have sent numerous emails to Fractal, with no responses. Point me in the right direction.


----------



## darksen

odd, i contacted them using the email on their website, responded within 5minutes...


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

how much did they charge for the panel?


----------



## ROM3000

Hey everyone, I just want to clear up some confusion. I was able to get the panel under warranty as the side panel came with a rather large scratch in it from the factory or through shipping. They were very quick to respond to my email and quick to ship out the replacement. Obviously you have to show proof, but the process was rather painless. If you try contacting them, you may be able to order a replacement panel, but I'm not sure as I never did this. Give it a shot and post back.

Edit: I was wondering if anyone has done any testing to see what the best way to orient the fans are? I currently have 3 intake and two exhaust and temperature seem good, but thoughts? I've seen some people have just one exhaust and the rest all intake.


----------



## adi518

Fractal Design customer service is pretty good and yes, they reply rather fast on emails.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Edit: I was wondering if anyone has done any testing to see what the best way to orient the fans are? I currently have 3 intake and two exhaust and temperature seem good, but thoughts? I've seen some people have just one exhaust and the rest all intake.


Seems pretty much right. Intakes 2x front and bottom or side panel and exhausts rear and rearmost top ?


----------



## MP-Canuck

I love this case. Just got mine two days ago.

Inside.


Back.


Front.


3/4.


----------



## jjr007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MP-Canuck*
> 
> I love this case. Just got mine two days ago.
> Inside.
> 
> Back.
> 
> Front.
> 
> 3/4.


You do any temp testing yet?


----------



## MP-Canuck

I did a little bit of testing last night. Played skyrim for a while.

The temps are much better than my old case. In the old case my 5770 was hitting high 90s and at one point hit 105 C. This was with skyrim and BF3. But now with the Arc it only hit 86 C after playing skyrim for 30-40 minutes. It idles now at 39 C. I think it idled around 50 C something before.

My i5 only hit 61 C while playing skyrim. Used to hit around 70 C. So gained about 10 C. It idles now at about 30-32 C. It idled about 34-35 C before so not a massive change.

The motherboard is at 27 C at idle. Forgot to check it after playing skyrim.

I was going to test BF3 but it wanted to update and it was late last night and my internet is slow so I will try BF3 later.

I have the case set up with five fans. I have it set up for positive air flow with four intakes and one exhaust. Three of the intakes are on the included controller. Front top fan, side panel fan, and top fan. I had the controller on high. Oh, and the fans are the three stock fans and two fractal 140s I picked up with the case.


----------



## Special_K

At a LAN party now and the Fractal guys are here showcasing a bunch of their cases. I am impressed at the build quality of their cases and may consider them for my next case.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Edit: I was wondering if anyone has done any testing to see what the best way to orient the fans are? I currently have 3 intake and two exhaust and temperature seem good, but thoughts? I've seen some people have just one exhaust and the rest all intake.


My front 2 fans and the bottom are my intakes, and the top 2 and rear are my exhaust. This seems to have the best cooling effect for me.

Top Fans: 140mm Scythe Maru2: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185158

Front fans: 120mm Scythe Slipstreams: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185060

Bottom intake and rear exhaust: 120mm CoolerMaster Blademasters (same as my cooler, and also controlled by PWM): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069

Edit: The top 2 140's and the front 2 120's are hooked up to this: http://lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_FC5V2


----------



## Airrick10

Ok so last night I decided to remove the front fan filter and placed DiNoc carbon fiber vinyl on some cardboard. Here are the results. (I want to give Thanks to everyone else that has done this mod)


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MP-Canuck*
> 
> I did a little bit of testing last night. Played skyrim for a while.
> The temps are much better than my old case. In the old case my 5770 was hitting high 90s and at one point hit 105 C. This was with skyrim and BF3. But now with the Arc it only hit 86 C after playing skyrim for 30-40 minutes. It idles now at 39 C. I think it idled around 50 C something before.
> My i5 only hit 61 C while playing skyrim. Used to hit around 70 C. So gained about 10 C. It idles now at about 30-32 C. It idled about 34-35 C before so not a massive change.
> The motherboard is at 27 C at idle. Forgot to check it after playing skyrim.
> I was going to test BF3 but it wanted to update and it was late last night and my internet is slow so I will try BF3 later.
> I have the case set up with five fans. I have it set up for positive air flow with four intakes and one exhaust. Three of the intakes are on the included controller. Front top fan, side panel fan, and top fan. I had the controller on high. Oh, and the fans are the three stock fans and two fractal 140s I picked up with the case.


Still seems a tad warm...and I would blame that stock CPU cooler. You could do a lot better without spending very much.


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Seems pretty much right. Intakes 2x front and bottom or side panel and exhausts rear and rearmost top ?


Yeah that's how I have it now. The only thing is I have a radiator at the bottom as intake so its putting some hot air back into the case when the gpu loads up. I prefer maintaining the positive pressure as my last case was a dust magnet. I can thankfully say the Arc had dropped my CPU load temps by about 4 degrees which is very impressive.


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> My front 2 fans and the bottom are my intakes, and the top 2 and rear are my exhaust. This seems to have the best cooling effect for me.
> Top Fans: 140mm Scythe Maru2: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185158
> Front fans: 120mm Scythe Slipstreams: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185060
> Bottom intake and rear exhaust: 120mm CoolerMaster Blademasters (same as my cooler, and also controlled by PWM): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069
> Edit: The top 2 140's and the front 2 120's are hooked up to this: http://lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_FC5V2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the post. That's almost what I have right now less the second top exhaust and fan choice. I'm going to try another 140 up top to see if that helps. Also, how did you mount 120's in the front? Edit: NVM, I just noticed you have a mini.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> I just noticed you have a mini.


That's what she said....wait, wut?







Yeah, I got the little brother. I spent a lot of time with a Cosmos, and grew tired of its size. I think I am going to stick with a SFF from now on. Are you planning on sticking with the Fractal fans?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so last night I decided to remove the front fan filter and placed DiNoc carbon fiber vinyl on some carboard. Here are the results. (I want to give Thanks to everyone else that has done this mod)


+Rep....Nice job. I would really like to do this for the CFM increase, but I share the basement with our dogs, so I _really_ need the filter...The mod makes the case look better though imo.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> That's what she said....wait, wut?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I got the little brother. I spent a lot of time with a Cosmos, and grew tired of its size. I think I am going to stick with a SFF from now on. Are you planning on sticking with the Fractal fans?
> +Rep....Nice job. I would really like to do this for the CFM increase, but I share the basement with our dogs, so I _really_ need the filter...The mod makes the case look better though imo.


I have done this mod and put silverstone 140mm filters on the back side of the fans. You cant see them and they work a treat. you just need to cut/file out of the frame of the filters, some indented bits for the clips that actually hold the fans in to go, so that they dont hit the filters.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> I have done this mod and put silverstone 140mm filters on the back side of the fans. You cant see them and they work a treat. you just need to cut/file out of the frame of the filters, some indented bits for the clips that actually hold the fans in to go, so that they dont hit the filters.


I actually like how easy it is to clean since it keeps dirt off of the fans too. I just vacuum off the front with a shop vac. Does doing it that way make it a pain to clean? I clean the front pretty often. And also, does cutting the frame make the front (detachable) part weaker? I'd hate to break it while taking it off. (I really like this case







). Can I be a pain and ask you to post a pic of the fan clips?


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I actually like how easy it is to clean since it keeps dirt off of the fans too. I just vacuum off the front with a shop vac. Does doing it that way make it a pain to clean? I clean the front pretty often. And also, does cutting the frame make the front (detachable) part weaker? I'd hate to break it while taking it off. (I really like this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Can I be a pain and ask you to post a pic of the fan clips?


To clean it i open the side pannel and blow tem out with compressed air but i imagine a shop vac would work(never tried) just the same. As for cutting the frame, i noticed no differance in overall strength. One thing i would advise is if your working on the back of the front bezel, that you put something soft under it. I just had it on my workbench and when i spun it i put a scratch into it

Your wish is of my command:thumb:
Sorry for the awful pic


Hope you can see what i mean. For the clip to hold the fan i had to file away part of the filter frame


----------



## MP-Canuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Still seems a tad warm...and I would blame that stock CPU cooler. You could do a lot better without spending very much.


Yeah, probably should get something better. Been focusing on the main components first. Does look at little sparse in the cpu area with that puny stock cooler


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> That's what she said....wait, wut?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I got the little brother. I spent a lot of time with a Cosmos, and grew tired of its size. I think I am going to stick with a SFF from now on. Are you planning on sticking with the Fractal fans?
> +Rep....Nice job. I would really like to do this for the CFM increase, but I share the basement with our dogs, so I _really_ need the filter...The mod makes the case look better though imo.


Thanks Ramsey77! Yeah I'll see how well it does as far as dust getting inside the case. I might put filters in the back of the front fans but maybe later on.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> To clean it i open the side pannel and blow tem out with compressed air but i imagine a shop vac would work(never tried) just the same. As for cutting the frame, i noticed no differance in overall strength. One thing i would advise is if your working on the back of the front bezel, that you put something soft under it. I just had it on my workbench and when i spun it i put a scratch into it
> Your wish is of my command:thumb:
> Sorry for the awful pic
> 
> Hope you can see what i mean. For the clip to hold the fan i had to file away part of the filter frame


Do the magnets get in the way of the area that you trimmed out? I'm thinking of doing the same to my front intake fans.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> My front 2 fans and the bottom are my intakes, and the top 2 and rear are my exhaust. This seems to have the best cooling effect for me.
> Top Fans: 140mm Scythe Maru2: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185158
> Front fans: 120mm Scythe Slipstreams: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185060
> Bottom intake and rear exhaust: 120mm CoolerMaster Blademasters (same as my cooler, and also controlled by PWM): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069
> Edit: The top 2 140's and the front 2 120's are hooked up to this: http://lamptron.com/products/view/Fan_Controller_FC5V2


Looks very familiar


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MP-Canuck*
> 
> Yeah, probably should get something better. Been focusing on the main components first. Does look at little sparse in the cpu area with that puny stock cooler


Something else would most likely be quieter and drop your temps SIGNIFICANTLY


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> To clean it i open the side pannel and blow tem out with compressed air but i imagine a shop vac would work(never tried) just the same. As for cutting the frame, i noticed no differance in overall strength. One thing i would advise is if your working on the back of the front bezel, that you put something soft under it. I just had it on my workbench and when i spun it i put a scratch into it
> Your wish is of my command:thumb:
> Sorry for the awful pic
> 
> Hope you can see what i mean. For the clip to hold the fan i had to file away part of the filter frame


don't like the idea but if it works for you i guess it's ok.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Looks very familiar


HAHA, my Z68 counterpart!







Got to love that AX750. Why you no fill with fans?


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> HAHA, my Z68 counterpart!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got to love that AX750. Why you no fill with fans?


I have two PWM Noiseblockers as input in the front and another on the top for exhaust. I don't have an exhaust in the back since data has shown that such a fan can actually result in slightly higher CPU temps with my 212 cooler setup.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning

Under heavy load, it maxes out at about 50c when OC-ed to 4.2...and idles in the 20s...while being sooo much quieter than my last rig.









Nice rig btw









cheers,
scuba


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Do the magnets get in the way of the area that you trimmed out? I'm thinking of doing the same to my front intake fans.


Yeah, i had to take to magents off. When you start to cut they basically fall off.


----------



## jackeyjoe

Woah, didn't realise this thread was so active! So guys, right now I'm in the market for a new case and it's between the TJ07 and define XL. There is a fair price difference between the two so try and convince me to go with the XL. Keep in mind that I have an RX480 rad that I would really really really like to mount internally, I am not afraid to mod in the slightest though(in fact I want to mod whichever case I get).


----------



## Ramsey77

Goofing around tonight, and added some lighting to my PC stand. A fiery mount.


----------



## solsamurai

That is nice looking!


----------



## Ramsey77

Thanks. I wish my phone took better pics.


----------



## drBlahMan

Will somebody please confirm that the Noctua NH-C14 fits inside the *Core 1000*. _Thanks in advance_.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Will somebody please confirm that the Noctua NH-C14 fits inside the *Core 1000*. _Thanks in advance_.


Yes it will.

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038106585#post1038106585


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Yes it will.
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1038106585#post1038106585


Thanks for the confirmation


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Goofing around tonight, and added some lighting to my PC stand. A fiery mount.


That looks great! Good Idea


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Thanks. I wish my phone took better pics.


So what stand is that? Not looking to copy just curious.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> So what stand is that? Not looking to copy just curious.


It's my own design. Feel free to copy its design all ya want. I will take better pics tonight and post them tomorrow morning. I'm at work tonight.


----------



## solsamurai

Looking forward to it.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> To clean it i open the side pannel and blow tem out with compressed air but i imagine a shop vac would work(never tried) just the same. As for cutting the frame, i noticed no differance in overall strength. One thing i would advise is if your working on the back of the front bezel, that you put something soft under it. I just had it on my workbench and when i spun it i put a scratch into it
> Your wish is of my command:thumb:
> Sorry for the awful pic
> 
> Hope you can see what i mean. For the clip to hold the fan i had to file away part of the filter frame


Ok so I googled around for some 140mm fan filters and I came across these:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_463_92&products_id=26807

I ordered 2 of these and I think they'll work perfect because the frame will not interfere with the clips that hold the front fans. I'll let you all know how they work out. I actually found a silverstone fan filter and tried to trim the part where the clips would interfere but I ended breaking the frame and making a mess out of the filter. I don't think I could do as good of a job as you did on trimming the area that interferes with the clips.


----------



## cooper-noodles

hey guys recently bought myself the fractal design core 1000 for a matx build, i really do like the case but the more i see of the arc mini the more i want one plus the added bonus of watercooling in the future sounds good


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooper-noodles*
> 
> hey guys recently bought myself the fractal design core 1000 for a matx build, i really do like the case but the more i see of the arc mini the more i want one plus the added bonus of watercooling in the future sounds good


I am loving mine.

On another note, here is who I bought my aluminum from on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=8020inc&redirect=mobile&rt=nc&_pppn=r1&_fss=1&LH_SpecificSeller=1..8020inc


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Looking forward to it.


Here is a pic from my phone, that I had to link through photobucket.


----------



## solsamurai

Very nice. Thanks for the pic!


----------



## Special_K

After the LAN I was given a Fractal Arc Mini. This will be the case my new ivy bridge setup will go in. I hope to have a good experience with it. It has a lot of nice features I plan to take advantage of. The fan controller slot on the back will be a sound card instead, since I have SLI. We'll have to see how it goes.


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ritz*
> 
> Played around with my fan setup. Putting the Kuhler radiator in the front with a 38mm shroud dropped my temps quite a bit, I'm idling at least 3-4* lower and at least 5* lower under load.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might grab some acoustic foam to line the dead areas on top, but I think I've found something close to my finished fan setup.


Hey, just wondering how you mounted that 120mm radiator to the 140mm front fan?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Here is a pic from my phone, that I had to link through photobucket.


A Man this looks cool! + Rep All this time I thought it was made out of wood lol


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I thought it was made out of wood lol


Nope. Aluminum, stainless steel bolts, plexiglass, and stamped steel fasteners. Thanks for the compliment.


----------



## Brentus

Hey guys

I was wondering if i could get some input about fans for a Fractal Design Arc Mid Tower. I posted in the Air Cooling section first to see if i could get a reply. If you would like to help please head here. Looking forward to joining the club as soon as the rig is done


----------



## Ramsey77

Not really familiar with what is available in Australia. Where are you able to buy from so we know what your choices are?


----------



## Resinderate

Hi,

long time lurker here on OCN, but finally finished my Arc Midi build and thought some people might be interested in having a look. o/

Copy pasta'd from another post I made on another forum so sorry if I exceed allowed picture size or something else random ^^

cheers o/

--

Fairly happy with it so far and no real major **** ups seemed to have shown up ^^

Specs:

i5 2500k @ 4.6GHz
H100 in push/pull (4x Arctic Cooling F12's , 2 PWM)
ASRock z77 Extreme4
Gigabyte Windforce x3 GTX 680 OC (Boost on 1180MHz for now)
1.5TB WD Caviar Black
128GB Crucial M4
4x 4GB Corsair Vengeance LP White
850w NZXT Hale90
NZXT Sentry Mix
Asus XONAR DG 5.1 (Not in pics)
And of course the precious Arc Midi to hold it all! With some painted mesh

And the pics o/ (Excuse the general mess







)























































Thinking about maybe putting one of the spare H100 corsair fans in the floor, but airflow seems fine for the minute, kept shivering all day sitting next to this thing! With my headset on today I couldn't hear the 680 with it's fan on 90% so I don't think the noise should be an issue at least, we'll see









//Resi


----------



## Brentus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Not really familiar with what is available in Australia. Where are you able to buy from so we know what your choices are?


Pc case gear is really the only site i can get stuff from in australia. but there isnt many fans to select from


----------



## Ramsey77

More shots of PC Stand:


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resinderate*


I have come back to look at this several times, and have decided that I like it. It's _a lot_ of contrast, but I think it works. I wonder what a Gun Metal Grey would look like?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Resinderate*
> 
> Hi,
> long time lurker here on OCN, but finally finished my Arc Midi build and thought some people might be interested in having a look. o/
> Copy pasta'd from another post I made on another forum so sorry if I exceed allowed picture size or something else random ^^
> cheers o/
> --
> Fairly happy with it so far and no real major **** ups seemed to have shown up ^^
> Specs:
> i5 2500k @ 4.6GHz
> H100 in push/pull (4x Arctic Cooling F12's , 2 PWM)
> ASRock z77 Extreme4
> Gigabyte Windforce x3 GTX 680 OC (Boost on 1180MHz for now)
> 1.5TB WD Caviar Black
> 128GB Crucial M4
> 4x 4GB Corsair Vengeance LP White
> 850w NZXT Hale90
> NZXT Sentry Mix
> Asus XONAR DG 5.1 (Not in pics)
> And of course the precious Arc Midi to hold it all! With some painted mesh
> And the pics o/ (Excuse the general mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking about maybe putting one of the spare H100 corsair fans in the floor, but airflow seems fine for the minute, kept shivering all day sitting next to this thing! With my headset on today I couldn't hear the 680 with it's fan on 90% so I don't think the noise should be an issue at least, we'll see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> //Resi


Nice and clean looking rig! What kind of temps are you getting with the h100?


----------



## Resinderate

Quote:


> What kind of temps are you getting with the h100?


Ran a quick IntelBurnTest.

Load no more than 60C , Idle no more than 30C.

Currently have it on 4.5GHz, (8 hour prime was fine for 4.6GHz, but not 24hrs, so set it back till I have some time to sort it.) hitting 1.29v @ max.

Also this is with all the fans on high. In a fairly noisy part of the house and don't mind the noise at the worst of times so that's usually what I leave them on =]


----------



## macarule

Anyone been able to fit a HD5970 in a ARC midi? by my measurements, it should just fit by a few mm


----------



## Kaneda13

thinking about adding a second radiator to my Arc Mini, anyone know (or have a pic) of a 120mm rad at the bottom between the PSU and HDD cages?


----------



## Angrybutcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Anyone been able to fit a HD5970 in a ARC midi? by my measurements, it should just fit by a few mm


Unsure if you leave the drive bays in. If you remove the top drive bay (thumb screws), then it will have no issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> thinking about adding a second radiator to my Arc Mini, anyone know (or have a pic) of a 120mm rad at the bottom between the PSU and HDD cages?


As with the Arc Midi, a 120mm rad should be fine in the bottom as long as you are using a "short" PSU.


----------



## aesthetics1

I wrote up a review of the Define R3 and thought I would share it with the community:

http://f3ature.com/index.php?section=article&articleid=56

Glad to hear your thoughts or anything I might have missed/forgot to mention.

Great case, and was very happy to use it for a client of mine. I built a very modest file server to house their OCR'd documents on and it was a perfect fit for the deployment.


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

So I joined this site pretty much because of this thread. Hopefully I'm qualified to join the club.













This was my first ever computer build. I'm kind of apprehensive about the amount of air that these case fans (prolimatech BV 14) are projecting. Since I've never built a computer, I was expecting more air to project forward from the case fans. I have to put my hand right in front of the fans to feel anything coming from them. Even then, it only feels that air is blowing from the outside edges of the fan blades. Is that normal? I was expecting to at least be able to feel something from four or so inches in front of the fans.

I'm sure they're oriented the right way and my three front fans are at full RPM since they are direct to my PSU.

Also, am I employing positive pressure if I have three intake (two front/ one bottom) and three exhaust (one back/ two top) on my rig? I was reading on Tom's hardware about positive pressure and it said that having mesh will not allow it to work and I thought that counterproductive for my case since it was made with so much mesh.

Any recommendations would be awesome and sorry if these are noob questions. I'm still in the process of learning but it's fun.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Half Blood Pimp*
> 
> So I joined this site pretty much because of this thread. Hopefully I'm qualified to join the club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was my first ever computer build. I'm kind of apprehensive about the amount of air that these case fans are projecting. Since I've never built a computer, I was expecting more air to project forward from the case fans. I have to put my hand right in front of the fans to feel anything coming from them. Even then, it only feels that air is blowing from the outside edges of the fan blades. Is that normal? I was expecting to at least be able to feel something from four or so inches in front of the fans.
> I'm sure they're oriented the right way and my three front fans are at full RPM since they are direct to my PSU.
> *Also, am I employing positive pressure if I have three intake (two front/ one bottom) and three exhaust (one back/ two top) on my rig? I was reading on Tom's hardware about positive pressure and it said that having mesh will not allow it to work and I thought that counterproductive for my case since it was made with so much mesh.*
> Any recommendations would be awesome and sorry if these are noob questions. I'm still in the process of learning but it's fun.


Welcome to OCN!









Not quiet positive pressure/positive flow. Check out the Positive Airflow cooling item in my sig for more info and help in this area.







Looks good so far!


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not quiet positive pressure/positive flow. Check out the Positive Airflow cooling item in my sig for more info and help in this area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good so far!


Thanks! I'm definitely going to take a look at that as soon as I can.


----------



## JDUB_68

Corsair H100 showing up today, I'll post pics when its all up and running...


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

So today I changed my fan setup to three of the prolimatech bv 14's to intake (two front/ one top nearest front) and blocked the other top intakes not used. I have one of the Noctua 140's as exhaust. Is this proper for positive air pressure? I read some of the above recommended thread about positive pressure and it led me to this setup.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Half Blood Pimp*
> 
> So today I changed my fan setup to three of the prolimatech bv 14's to intake (two front/ one top nearest front) and blocked the other top intakes not used. I have one of the Noctua 140's as exhaust. Is this proper for positive air pressure? I read some of the above recommended thread about positive pressure and it led me to this setup.


Yes its good.


----------



## lurker2501

Was bored and decided to sleeve the default fanbus that came with my arc midi. i think it came out pretty cool. what do you think?


----------



## Ramsey77

Looks real nice man, good job. I have old fans sleeved that I will never use again. Just something I like to do.


----------



## mingqi53

If anyone has an *Arc Mini* they plan on selling, please let me know, I would like to purchase one!

Sorry for the big font but I needed to attract attention to this post, I put up a wanted ad already, but since I'm really looking for an Arc Mini I figure I'd come here to the source where all the Fractal owners are


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mingqi53*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone has an *Arc Mini* they plan on selling, please let me know, I would like to purchase one!
> 
> 
> Sorry for the big font but I needed to attract attention to this post, I put up a wanted ad already, but since I'm really looking for an Arc Mini I figure I'd come here to the source where all the Fractal owners are


Lol, you do realize within the next hour this post will be a couple pages back.







They go on sale on Newegg a couple times a year as well for decent prices. The last sale had the Arc Midi for $70.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Lol, you do realize within the next hour this post will be a couple pages back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They go on sale on Newegg a couple times a year as well for decent prices. The last sale had the Arc Midi for $70.


Yup! That's why I'm here cuz of that shell shocker from newegg! I couldn't pass it up lol


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Yup! That's why I'm here cuz of that shell shocker from newegg! I couldn't pass it up lol


I wanted to grab one as well but couldn't justify the purchase at the time.


----------



## Airrick10

Ok so I got my new fan filters for the front fans. I placed them on the back of the fan and I think they'll work just fine. I'm glad that the clips that hold the fans didn't even come close to interfering with the filters. I used some extra rubber fasteners that I had from some Gelid fans and they worked out great. As far as air flow, It does restrict it a bit but I noticed that if I ramp the front fans up on high, my temps would go up so it doesn't bother me much. Here are some pics...






If anyone is interested in these, here is the link:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_463_92&zenid=d6af9981e5be14eaa65ce036c2073dfc


----------



## mingqi53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Lol, you do realize within the next hour this post will be a couple pages back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They go on sale on Newegg a couple times a year as well for decent prices. The last sale had the Arc Midi for $70.


Yeah I missed the sale on the Arc Mini when it was $80, looking for a smaller build for my brother that he can take to college. Midi is a tad too big!


----------



## MrLondon

HI guys,

I am a new owner of the R3 however I seem to be stupid, I cannot find the reset button anywhere, can you please point me out, I might be completely stupid. so please be gentle.


----------



## cgull

dont worry your not the first person to have trouble finding reset on r3
open front door..its a small button to the right of the top fan door


----------



## aesthetics1

Haha, I don't think you can even press it with your finger unless you are a talented individual. I kind of like it hidden away.. I covered that in my review btw


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aesthetics1*
> 
> Haha, I don't think you can even press it with your finger unless you are a talented individual. I kind of like it hidden away.. I covered that in my review btw


Most reset buttons are designed like that, to make sure you don't push it accidentaly.


----------



## aesthetics1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Most reset buttons are designed like that, to make sure you don't push it accidentaly.


Haha, keyword being 'most!' It would be nice if they were all hidden away. I have a Black NZXT Phantom at work and the power/reset buttons are very close to the IO ports on the top, I sometimes almost hit them when going for a USB port. Not fun.


----------



## ryder

anyone have pics of an R3 with a sabertooth / ax650 package?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ryder*
> 
> anyone have pics of an R3 with a sabertooth / ax650 package?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


Might be hard to find a pic with AX650 but that's just a matter of sticker so no big deal here..


----------



## Ramsey77

Got my glass tinted finally, and my glue came in the mail yesterday so I got my side panel done. What do ya think?








http://www.overclock.net/t/1252932/black-glass#post_17156465

Lights off:



Lights on:


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Got my glass tinted finally, and my glue came in the mail yesterday so I got my side panel done. What do ya think?


Love it man! I just got half of my stuff in a couple days ago and will be doing the same mod except with acrylic glass. If I can't find someone to do it in my area I may have to go with the glass but really don't want the added weight.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Love it man! I just got half of my stuff in a couple days ago and will be doing the same mod except with acrylic glass. If I can't find someone to do it in my area I may have to go with the glass but really don't want the added weight.


It weighs a pound or so, so I had to glue a couple pieces of stainless steel angle to hold it up while the magnets hold it in place. Although my fans do a heck of a job at sucking it to the case themselves. Couldn't believe it. Ha! I wanna see pics when you are done man.


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> It weighs a pound or so, so I had to glue a couple pieces of stainless steel angle to hold it up while the magnets hold it in place. Although my fans do a heck of a job at sucking it to the case themselves. Couldn't believe it. Ha! I wanna see pics when you are done man.


Will do, I'll probably have a build log in the W/C section and the post finished pics here. I'm kinda irritated that this is my 3 day weekend and only half my stuff is here =\. So it'll probably be another two weeks.


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

Anybody hear anything else about the side window panel for the midi? I emailed fractal a little more than a month ago and they said they are finishing it up and getting it ready to make it available to partners and it should be out in a month or so or something along those lines. I don't want to try and do a custom window myself.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Half Blood Pimp*
> 
> Anybody hear anything else about the side window panel for the midi? I emailed fractal a little more than a month ago and they said they are finishing it up and getting it ready to make it available to partners and it should be out in a month or so or something along those lines. I don't want to try and do a custom window myself.


Nah, nothing here at least. Havent heard anything about it other than that they're working on it. And no one at work knows about it, so I don't think it'll be available just yet.
Believe me, I've been bugging my co-workers about it


----------



## lurker2501

best window= no side panel


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> best window= no side panel


LOL, not when you have a curious 3 year old running around!


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so I got my new fan filters for the front fans. I placed them on the back of the fan and I think they'll work just fine. I'm glad that the clips that hold the fans didn't even come close to interfering with the filters. I used some extra rubber fasteners that I had from some Gelid fans and they worked out great. As far as air flow, It does restrict it a bit but I noticed that if I ramp the front fans up on high, my temps would go up so it doesn't bother me much. Here are some pics...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If anyone is interested in these, here is the link:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_463_92&zenid=d6af9981e5be14eaa65ce036c2073dfc


Those look much better than my modded silverstone ones. Might see if i can track some down


----------



## Kritz

Here's my setup:


----------



## lightsout

What's up guys. Looking at the arc mini. I have an antec kuhler 920 on my gpu. Was wondering if anyone knows if it will reach to be mounted in the front of the case where the bottom 120mm fan is.

I'm also interested in putting an h100 in the top of the case.


----------



## JDUB_68

Just this weekend I put a new Corsair H100 in my Arc Midi. This case made it pretty damn easy to put this thing in, I can't imagine how annoying this must be to install this on a case that doesn't have the space and support the Midi does.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JDUB_68*
> 
> Just this weekend I put a new Corsair H100 in my Arc Midi. This case made it pretty damn easy to put this thing in, I can't imagine how annoying this must be to install this on a case that doesn't have the space and support the Midi does.


Looks nice man! Yeah that's another reason I switched to the Arc Midi. I had the CM Storm Enforcer and you just couldn't place an H100 with out it looking slanted and misaligned. I don't have an H100 now but perhaps when piledriver comes out I'll get one!


----------



## JDUB_68

Thanks man.

I think people underestimate how nice it is to have that extra inch or two of width this case has. It helps with cable management, the depth means the H100 isn't near your RAM and running cables behind there isn't too bad.....

Great case.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Those look much better than my modded silverstone ones. Might see if i can track some down


Thanks! Yeah they were very easy to install and I'm glad I didn't have to cut/trim anything out.


----------



## lightsout

H100 fits in the mini too right. Like I posted above I'll have a gpu cooled by an antec kuhler and later on a h100. Do you guys recommend the midi over the mini?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> H100 fits in the mini too right. Like I posted above I'll have a gpu cooled by an antec kuhler and later on a h100. Do you guys recommend the midi over the mini?


Well, not if you are planning on placing the Antec Kuhler on the front. I say this because on the Midi, the front 140mm fans are secured by clip-on's and there aren't any screw holes for the kuhler 120mm fans. Maybe with some modification, you might be able to do it. Although if you are able to install the antec kuhler on the bottom intake (between the psu and the hdd cage) then the Midi would be ok.


----------



## lightsout

Oh figured it would just be a 120;fan slot. I'll have to check it out better thanks.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh figured it would just be a 120;fan slot. I'll have to check it out better thanks.


120's in the front of the Mini, and 140's in the front of the Midi.


----------



## lightsout

After looking more into it I didn't realize this case had a cheap plastic front. Not really liking how the fan mounts to the front panel and not case. Not sure how good that would be for a rad.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> After looking more into it I didn't realize this case had a cheap plastic front. Not really liking how the fan mounts to the front panel and not case. Not sure how good that would be for a rad.


Wait, didn't you recently move into the TJ08B-E?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> After looking more into it I didn't realize this case had a cheap plastic front. Not really liking how the fan mounts to the front panel and not case. Not sure how good that would be for a rad.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait, didn't you recently move into the TJ08B-E?
Click to expand...

I did, why the rolling eyes? Am I not allowed to switch cases? I was thinking I would be happy with a mild OOC. Well that isn't really the case. And with my current setup the TJ08 just isn't good for airflow. I do love it though.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I did, why the rolling eyes? Am I not allowed to switch cases? I was thinking I would be happy with a mild OOC. Well that isn't really the case. And with my current setup the TJ08 just isn't good for airflow. I do love it though.


Sorry I meant this one







. You are most definitely allowed to switch cases as often as you like!







If you do let me know. I've been looking around for a good deal on the TJ08B-E.


----------



## lightsout

Oh hey Socal. I was actually looking to sell it locally. Where are you at I'm in Huntington Beach.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Oh hey Socal. I was actually looking to sell it locally. Where are you at I'm in Huntington Beach.


Sent you a PM.


----------



## lightsout

Replied.


----------



## mingqi53

For anyone here who owns a *Fractal Core 1000* and would like to sell it, please let me know, I have a wanted ad up here on OCN

I chose the Core 1000 over the Arc Mini.. Arc Mini is surprisingly heavy!

Also, I know the Fractal Core 1000 can be had for rather cheaply on Newegg, but I'd like to help an owner out since I know from personal experience it can be a bit hard to sell a case


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mingqi53*
> 
> For anyone here who owns a *Fractal Core 1000* and would like to sell it, please let me know, I have a wanted ad up here on OCN
> I chose the Core 1000 over the Arc Mini.. Arc Mini is surprisingly heavy!
> Also, I know the Fractal Core 1000 can be had for rather cheaply on Newegg, but I'd like to help an owner out since I know from personal experience it can be a bit hard to sell a case


*Hugs Fractal Design Core 1000*



Is joke, is joke.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> *Hugs Fractal Design Core 1000*
> 
> Is joke, is joke.


LOL


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mingqi53*
> 
> I chose the Core 1000 over the Arc Mini.. Arc Mini is surprisingly heavy!


Lol compared to my P180 Mini, the Arc Mini is light as a feather


----------



## jvkua

I need help with the fan setup on the Arc Mini.

Since I'm on a somewhat tight budget, should I even get extra fans for this case or should I just go with the 3 included fans? + how will I set them up, where should I put the intake and exhaust fans?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> I need help with the fan setup on the Arc Mini.
> Since I'm on a somewhat tight budget, should I even get extra fans for this case or should I just go with the 3 included fans? + how will I set them up, where should I put the intake and exhaust fans?


Blue are my intakes and Reds are my exhaust. This case flows some serious air.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> Lol compared to my P180 Mini, the Arc Mini is light as a feather


just gave my p180 to my son for his build...hate to see it go. might just grab a white one before they disappear.


----------



## candy_van

Anyone here have a H50/60 (rear exhaust) in their Arc Minis?
I'm considering going back to one, but am not sure how I want to configure the top fans of the case with it.

I'll have 2x AP-15s (exhaust) in p/p, so I was thinking about flipping the top 2x140mms as intakes (+pressure)
I suppose I could have one intake and one exhaust (seems wonky) or just stick w/ exhaust...not really sure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> just gave my p180 to my son for his build...hate to see it go. might just grab a white one before they disappear.


I know; can't get myself to let it go either I have it stored away even though I don't have a use for it now.


----------



## jvkua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Blue are my intakes and Reds are my exhaust. This case flows some serious air.


I see, but if I only used 3 of the stock fans. Would it be more helpful if I had 2 intakes and 1 exhaust or keeping it as is?


----------



## stellar

2 front, 1 top, and your cpu air heatsink is shooting out the rear. If your HDDs don't get hot and/or your gpu gets hot, put the lower front to the side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> I see, but if I only used 3 of the stock fans. Would it be more helpful if I had 2 intakes and 1 exhaust or keeping it as is?


----------



## shockre

Can you check my airflow and suggest if I should change something? I'm going to buy the side vent tomorrow because RAM and MBO get pretty hot.



Thanks!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shockre*
> 
> Can you check my airflow and suggest if I should change something? I'm going to buy the side vent tomorrow because RAM and MBO get pretty hot.
> 
> Thanks!


Put a fan in the bottom location for extra cool air intake. Other than that it looks good.


----------



## adridu59

Personally I set everything as intake except the rear fan hole which I leave empty = postive pressure.


----------



## Ramsey77

You can never have enough cool/fresh air IMHO. You could even experiment with your H60. Reverse it's airflow and see what yields the best results.


----------



## F4ze0ne

http://www.techpowerup.com/165786/Fractal-Design-Launches-New-Fan-Controller-the-Adjust108.html

This will look nice in the Arc Midi case.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F4ze0ne*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/165786/Fractal-Design-Launches-New-Fan-Controller-the-Adjust108.html
> 
> This will look nice in the Arc Midi case.


SOB, I just bought a nzxt sentry mix last week >.<

Sent from Stugots Mobile


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F4ze0ne*
> 
> This will look nice in the Arc Midi case.


Except that this is aluminum and the Arc front panel is plastic.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Except that this is aluminum and the Arc front panel is plastic.


If they have any sense it will be plastic to match there cases. So far its just a CAD drawing so Techpowerup probably don't know what it is made of yet


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Except that this is aluminum and the Arc front panel is plastic.


I see no problem with that as long as it fits the color scheme and judging by the photos it will perfectly.


----------



## ROM3000

Hmm, looks interesting. Can't wait to see some pricing for it.


----------



## Vowels

Hey guys, I was wondering if an NH-D14 fits inside a Define Mini. The official specs says 160mm maximum and the NH-D14 is exactly 160mm so I'm worried that the tips of the heatpipes or the NF-P14 fan press into the side ModuVent foam. I'm thinking of fitting it on an ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M motherboard if that makes any difference.


----------



## Outcasst

In!

Just finished my Arc Midi build. Let me know what you think.


----------



## Ramsey77

.......










Great looking Rig.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> name="Vowels" url="/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/2420#post_17205106"]Hey guys, I was wondering if an NH-D14 fits inside a Define Mini.


Now....C'mon









This has been discussed 283 times [or was it 382 times]

anyhoooooo.......of course it fits !!!!!


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> In!
> Just finished my Arc Midi build. Let me know what you think.


*That's how ya do it !!!*

Obviously took your time.....and it shows


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> In!
> Just finished my Arc Midi build. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Not bad. IMO it looks a bit empty, I personally don't an empty look which is one of the reasons mine looks like an organised mess, which is what it is lol



I do realise the top HDD cage is in upside down and it doesn't have screws in but I wasn't paying attention when I did that lol I only just noticed it when I looked at the photo.


----------



## Vowels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> name="Vowels" url="/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/2420#post_17205106"]Hey guys, I was wondering if an NH-D14 fits inside a Define Mini.
> 
> 
> 
> Now....C'mon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been discussed 283 times [or was it 382 times]
> 
> anyhoooooo.......of course it fits !!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Oohh nice, it even fits against video cards with a backplate. I was worried that the fan clips would short something if a card didn't have a backplate and with a backplate, I was worried there wouldn't be enough room for the fan clips.


----------



## WoodiE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Now....C'mon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has been discussed 283 times [or was it 382 times]
> anyhoooooo.......of course it fits !!!!!


How did you mount that HDD to the bottom of the 5.25" bay?


----------



## Ramsey77

I ditched the red for white led's. I like the effect better.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> In!
> Just finished my Arc Midi build. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome Build!


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> In!
> Just finished my Arc Midi build. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice and clean









That said, it looks like you have one too many 680s in there. No worries. It's a common mistake. Easy fix - mail me one.


----------



## shockre

Here's a pic of my Arc Mini build, it's complete now. Bought that side vent and it helps a lot, GPU is 4-5C lower, MBO is 7-8C lower and there is much less heat being pushed out through top vents to the room.


----------



## andrews2547

Redid my cable management


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Redid my cable management
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


8/10

- Hide front panel wires through that closest hole
- Hide that fan cable above the CPU heat sink
- Find a better spot for your 4-pin Molex under the HDD bay, too obvious

But great other than that


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Redid my cable management


Nice job, I wonder why you let the upper drive cage in place through..


----------



## Mareon

Hi everyone, i'm new there









First, excuse my awful english, i'm french!

I am about to order an Arc Midi for my rig but I have 2 problems... And damn i hate it!! Cause i really want this case...

1 / I actually own a Cooler Master CM690II Advanced since 2010 and I mounted 4x140mm Be Quiet Silent Wings fans in it. Of course, I want to use them in my new case.
Do you think it will be ok with the front bezel? I heard there are only clips but bequiet fans have a special frame and may not be holded by those clips









2 / My graphics card is an Asus EAH6950 2048Mo, wich means 304mm length and 3 PCI slots... My motherboard is an Asus M5A97 so the graphics card will be installed on the 2nd, 3rd and 4th PCI bracket on the case... I hope she will only "rest" a little on the hard disk cage but i'm afraid the HDD cage would simply block me








Of course, I am talking about the down cage, the other will go away.

Even with all the pictures on this thread, I cannot be sure it will fit, so PLEASE help me to join the club


----------



## Ramsey77

Yeah, those fans won't work with the mounting system the Midi uses for the front fans. Only fans with square frames will work. Sorry Dude, those look like awesome fans too.


----------



## Mareon

Humm... In fact it seems to be possible!

I'm gonna try to explain it








When you see the inside of the bezel, there are the clips for the fan frame BUT i can see 4 plastic 'pins' wich go in the fan's screw holes (i don't know if you gonna understand it, sorry again for my english)

so it would be easy to drill a hole instead of those 'pins' and so use the bequiet fixation system once you have pulled out the mesh!
See the picture here for fixation detail :

Source : Ginjfo

Anyway if ma graphics card is alright for this case (it is the most important), i'll order it quickly and try to lightly mod this bezel


----------



## KuuFA

Finally got some good pics of mine!

I love this case its is prob one of the best cases I have ever had the pleasure to work on.



The Cable management isn't complete yet as I kinda just put it together and let it run for awhile lol... too lazy to put the doors on


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> First, excuse my awful english, i'm french!


I am too, but my english is fine.







jk


----------



## Mareon

Yes I saw it









So if someone who owns an Arc Midi can answer my question about the graphics card, I will can join the club soon


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> So if someone who owns an Arc Midi can answer my question about the graphics card, I will can join the club soon


Supports graphic card lengths up to 290mm when removable HDD-Bay is in place
Supports graphic card lengths up to 470mm without removable HDD-Bay


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Finally got some good pics of mine!
> I love this case its is prob one of the best cases I have ever had the pleasure to work on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cable management isn't complete yet as I kinda just put it together and let it run for awhile lol... too lazy to put the doors on


how did you mount the from 140mm rad?


----------



## Mareon

I agree, but this picture is an Arc Mini and it looks like the Midi could be ok because the hdd cage is a little bit more down (4 against 3 drive cages, but 7 against 4 PCI brackets)


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> I agree, but this picture is an Arc Mini and it looks like the Midi could be ok because the hdd cage is a little bit more down (4 against 3 drive cages, but 7 against 4 PCI brackets)


Ah yes, sorry.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/fractal_design_arc_review,6.html

"Simiarily the Arc will also accommodate long graphics cards. With the top HDD cage installed we can manage up to 11.5". If the graphics card is longer, the HDD cage will need to be removed - this actually is probably a good idea anyway as it will help to improve airflow."

Should be fine then. 11.5" = 29cm. Similar to Fractal specs.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Finally got some good pics of mine!
> I love this case its is prob one of the best cases I have ever had the pleasure to work on.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Cable management isn't complete yet as I kinda just put it together and let it run for awhile lol... too lazy to put the doors on


Looks awesome, man. However, you could remove the two rails for the upper HDD cage, so that the front rad will not be crooked.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> Finally got some good pics of mine!
> I love this case its is prob one of the best cases I have ever had the pleasure to work on.
> 
> The Cable management isn't complete yet as I kinda just put it together and let it run for awhile lol... too lazy to put the doors on


Looks great! Which radiator did you install at the front? I want to get an EX140, but want to confirm that it fits.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> how did you mount the from 140mm rad?


Just screwed it on to the Front 140mm fan and pushed the fan in... Its not all the way in but its most of the way. The plastic brackets are touching the rad so its as close as it can get.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Looks awesome, man. However, you could remove the two rails for the upper HDD cage, so that the front rad will not be crooked.


Yea that was kinda bothering me but I think i need it to Hold the fan and Rad in place, The fan isn't all the way in the clips.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> Looks great! Which radiator did you install at the front? I want to get an EX140, but want to confirm that it fits.


Yup it is a EX140 and it works wonderfully if only the front air filter wasn't sooo restrictive lol....


----------



## tambok2012

CAN someone mod a *Fractal Design Core 1000*(PLEASE) With 2 120mm FANS on Front please don't have money I need an idea what will be the outcome...









please those who have many money there mod a case(Fractal Design Core 1000) please


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> CAN someone mod a *Fractal Design Core 1000*(PLEASE) With 2 120mm FANS on Front please don't have money I need an idea what will be the outcome...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please those who have many money there mod a case(Fractal Design Core 1000) please


Funny that you're asking about this. I'm currently in progress to mod a Core 1000. I'm giving it a nice cosmetic upgrade. The front will have (*2*) 120mm fans, the side custom door panel will have either (*1*) 140mm fan or (*2*) 120mm fans, and it will have a rear 120mm fan (_that stock 92mm fan is too small for me_). Got my parts ordered....just waiting for them to be delivered. Don't worry...I'll be posting the final pics in this thread


----------



## tambok2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Funny that you're asking about this. I'm currently in progress to mod a Core 1000. I'm giving it a nice cosmetic upgrade. The front will have (*2*) 120mm fans, the side custom door panel will have either (*1*) 140mm fan or (*2*) 120mm fans, and it will have a rear 120mm fan (_that stock 92mm fan is too small for me_). Got my parts ordered....just waiting for them to be delivered. Don't worry...I'll be posting the final pics in this thread


THANK YOU MAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN SOOOOOOOOO HAPPY posting PICs i will follow your modding ty men..

This budget case with just few modding it will look very good


----------



## Mareon

Thanks Adridu59, i found the same link as you, and this is exactly my graphics card









So next week, bye bye CM690II, say hello to Arc Midi!

I will try to put my BeQuiet fans in it, and improve the filters to avoid dust rings issue. I also have a window to mount, so i guess it will not be ready quickly but it should be nice









Stay tuned i'll post here when it's done!

Many thanks


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> I will try to put my BeQuiet fans in it, and improve the filters to avoid dust rings issue.


One solution would be to take the filter off the front and get 140mm filters that mount to the fans (to the exhaust side of the fan)


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

I know this is slightly off topic, but I want to make this available to my Fractal brothers first. I'm selling my Corsair Vengeance 16 GB high profile set of ram for cheap. I want to get the low profile version of the exact same ram so I can use two fans on my CPU cooler. They've been in my build for exactly two weeks today so they are pretty new and I've not done any stress testing or anything demanding on them at all and they've worked no problem with just casual gaming on LoL and CSS. Original box and packaging. PM me for price if interested.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> One solution would be to take the filter off the front and get 140mm filters that mount to the fans (to the exhaust side of the fan)


Personally I wouldn't take off the filter, just cut rings in front of the fan blades to keep the clean look. But that would also require cutting the frame behind the filter... maybe partially.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> 8/10
> - Hide front panel wires through that closest hole
> - Hide that fan cable above the CPU heat sink
> - Find a better spot for your 4-pin Molex under the HDD bay, too obvious
> But great other than that


Thanks








I can't hide the front panels wires though the closest hole because all my PSU cables are in the way lol

I only noticed they were like that after I took the pic







I have fixed that now

I can't







All the other good places have been taken up. I might try and move them to where the front bottom fan would be if I had one. There should be enough space there
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Nice job, I wonder why you let the upper drive cage in place through..


Thanks







And I moved them because I have a 140mm fan on the front, it's cooling the HDDs down. When I had them in the bottom cage the 3.5" would get to 40C and the 2.5" would get to 35C. With the 140mm fan blowing air onto them it's now down to 30C for the 3.5" and 27C for the 2.5"


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Personally I wouldn't take off the filter, just cut rings in front of the fan blades to keep the clean look. But that would also require cutting the frame behind the filter... maybe partially.


it's easier to clean the case every once in a while then cut it.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> How did you mount that HDD to the bottom of the 5.25" bay?


first make a template of the HD's screw hole pattern

empty 51/2 drive bays , tranfer template over and drill
out matching holes

a 90 degree or right angled drill will come in handy

screw down thru drive bay into HD.

use some kinda suspension washer/standoff
to keep HD off of direct cage contact

real simple......but very effective


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Half Blood Pimp*
> 
> I know this is slightly off topic, but I want to make this available to my Fractal brothers first. I'm selling my Corsair Vengeance 16 GB high profile set of ram for cheap.


_Just in case you didn't know_

You can always simply remove the mem stiks coolers. A hairdryer makes this a simple task.
3-5C's is all the diff you'll see, either way.

Also, you can purchase low profile replacements

....just in case you find selling them difficult.


----------



## Kaneda13

was really liking the way my UV lighting was looking in my Raystorm, but I wanted it to be a little brighter, so I pulled out the 2000mcd LEDs and replaced them with some 3000mcd ones:

BEFORE:









AFTER:


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> _Just in case you didn't know_
> You can always simply remove the mem stiks coolers. A hairdryer makes this a simple task.
> 3-5C's is all the diff you'll see, either way.
> Also, you can purchase low profile replacements
> ....just in case you find selling them difficult.


Ah nice, I may just take them off. If I choose not to, can you send me a link to where I can find low pro replacements? I couldn't find any with a Google search.

edit: Oh, I thought you meant I could buy Corsair low pro replacements. I found some heatsinks from other brands. Thanks


----------



## ChesterCat

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g40/c18/s236/list/p1/Air_Cooling-HDD_RAM_System_HeatsinksCoolers-Passive_RAM_Heatsinks-Page1.html

frozencpu's gots lotsa choices for heatsinks

of course, theve got allot of stuff for jes bout everything


----------



## The KurrK

Is anyone else's arc midi side panel really, really tight? I simply cannot get the right side panel off any more and I'm using so much force that I'm worried about damaging the case or hurting myself.


----------



## Paul_M

Poor little Midi..... preparing for the summer, i had to go TRIPLE (air) Penetration in her.....









AP 181 is very, very impressive..

BUT, atention all, if you want to put a Antec Kühler 620 in push pull config in the rear, and the AP-181, case will NOT close. Very very dissapointed about this, i had to put the Kühler on the top blowing air inside, and mount a Aerocool Shark on the rear as exhaust. If i want all correct, i have to put the AP-181 on the top, and the Nzxt 200mm on the side, im thinking about it, but my idea was the AP-181 in the side panel









I have NO photos of the final step, i was extremly dissapointed to make photos...


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> it's easier to clean the case every once in a while then cut it.


Removing the stock filter has two interests : allowing for more airflow (the stock "foam" filter reduces airflow by 50-60% if not more...) and looks.









I think (partially) cutting the frame + cutting holes in front of fan blades would look really good while staying clean.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> Poor little Midi..... preparing for the summer, i had to go TRIPLE (air) Penetration in her.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AP 181 is very, very impressive..
> BUT, atention all, if you want to put a Antec Kühler 620 in push pull config in the rear, and the AP-181, case will NOT close. Very very dissapointed about this, i had to put the Kühler on the top blowing air inside, and mount a Aerocool Shark on the rear as exhaust. If i want all correct, i have to put the AP-181 on the top, and the Nzxt 200mm on the side, im thinking about it, but my idea was the AP-181 in the side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have NO photos of the final step, i was extremly dissapointed to make photos...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Professional cameras make gorgeous builds even more gorgeous...


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Removing the stock filter has two interests : allowing for more airflow (the stock "foam" filter reduces airflow by 50-60% if not more...
> .


I've been looking around, trying to find any "real" data, which provides numbers
for filter -vs- no filter = finding nothing

Where exactly, did you extract that 50-60% number ?

*Using my Fractal Minis dual front 120 setup as an example. The filters are
located at the backside of the direction of the 2 fans. Incoming air is filtered
before it touches the fans path. Are in fact, my Noctua fans are being supplied
sufficient volumes of air based on the fans specification ? Is indeed the fans
losing any cooling abilities due to the filter ? Being that my idle temps are
pretty much static at 29-30 C , i'd tend to believe the filter is causing a neglible
amount of loss. So in fact, for incoming air......it's possible there is no loss at all
based on the fans position & the spec of the fan itself ???.*

What worries me about no filter, is the fact that dust kills sensitive electronics.
Plus, it's a fact.....dusty componets run hotter = def NOT good.
So wouldn't the benifit of moving more air, be negated by the fact
you're allowing dangerous (electronic killing) dust and dirt inside ?


----------



## solsamurai

Air slows down when it moves/is pulled through dense materials like foam or other dust filters. For example when I have the front filter on my 650D in place I can feel a decent amount of air from the front 200mm fan. When I remove the front filter though a HUGE amount of air begins to flow. Foam and filters do make a big difference but are needed to keep the case clean. That or blow it out with one of *these* every couple weeks.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> That or blow it out with one of *these* every couple weeks.










Everyone should try and invest in the Duster. I've used this and its predessor
since the beginning of time.

BUT....... Others and including myself, have our cases loaded into mounting positions
that dont allow easy access. It's a HUGE job just to get my case out of its resting place,
easily taking a 1/2 hour to remove. When you consider the number of folks that have
rack mounts and AV cabinets..........it's just not feasable to remove except for major
repairs and upgrades. The Military has for a long time , taken long term permanent
mounting filter designs in all its sensitive positions. Being that, lots easier to clean a
simple filter versus replacing equipment.


----------



## solsamurai

I would dust every couple months if I had a system tucked away like that.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> I would dust every couple months if I had a system tucked away like that.


To be honest......i'm lucky if it's 2-3 times a year. I know.......









Another thing i've learned thru time is keep the dang case *off and no where near the floor*.
Every case i've got, is mounted 4-5 feet above ground surface. Once I do get around to blowing
out the enterior......I truly get a very minimal amount of dust. _It kills me when I see nice stuff like
we got sitting on carpet_


----------



## solsamurai

Me too. I learned very quickly when my first build was a few inches off the floor how bad an idea that was, lol. My current system is 3-4 feet off the ground.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Removing the stock filter has two interests : allowing for more airflow (the stock "foam" filter reduces airflow by 50-60% if not more...) and looks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think (partially) cutting the frame + cutting holes in front of fan blades would look really good while staying clean.


not worth it for a couple degree difference and doubtful aesthetics if you're lazy enough to clean the case at least once a month.


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

I haven't had my build three weeks and I already have very noticeable dust circles on front and top mesh. I also just installed all prolimatech case fans and put both noctua fans on my cpu cooler. The inside of my case was already surprisingly dusty. I'm definitely going to invest in one of those dusters.

I have two questions. Is there a way to set the rear exhaust fan to never turn off unless power source is killed? I would like to keep it on even when the computer is asleep if that's possible. Also, would you all recommend a humidifier for my room to cut down on the dust? The computer is in the bonus room which also happens to be the dustiest room in the house. It won't move from the bonus room and I was wanting to know of ways to cut down on dust.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Half Blood Pimp*
> 
> I haven't had my build three weeks and I already have very noticeable dust circles on front and top mesh. I also just installed all prolimatech case fans and put both noctua fans on my cpu cooler. The inside of my case was already surprisingly dusty. I'm definitely going to invest in one of those dusters.
> I have two questions. Is there a way to set the rear exhaust fan to never turn off unless power source is killed? I would like to keep it on even when the computer is asleep if that's possible. Also, would you all recommend a humidifier for my room to cut down on the dust? The computer is in the bonus room which also happens to be the dustiest room in the house. It won't move from the bonus room and I was wanting to know of ways to cut down on dust.


Leaving the rear exhaust fan on will only pull in more dust from every opening in the case. Humidity is not good for electronics. Get the dust filters and consider a more positive flow airflow pattern. See the item in my sig for more info.


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Leaving the rear exhaust fan on will only pull in more dust from every opening in the case. Humidity is not good for electronics. Get the dust filters and consider a more positive flow airflow pattern. See the item in my sig for more info.


Ah yes, I didn't even think about that. That would create negative pressure inside the case wouldn't it? Ah well, guess I won't do that then.

I have all stock filters on and four intake/ one exhaust fan at the moment. I don't think it would be necessary to install additional filters on top of the stock ones to the intakes, would it?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Half Blood Pimp*
> 
> Ah yes, I didn't even think about that. That would create negative pressure inside the case wouldn't it? Ah well, guess I won't do that then.
> I have all stock filters on and four intake/ one exhaust fan at the moment. I don't think it would be necessary to install additional filters on top of the stock ones to the intakes, would it?


One exhaust running would create negative pressure.







Replacing the stock filters with different ones may help a bit but more importantly every intake fan should be filtered. Managing the right amount of airflow (CFM) of each fan is also important. Here's a really good summary on DemciFlex website: *clicky*.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I've been looking around, trying to find any "real" data, which provides numbers
> for filter -vs- no filter = finding nothing
> Where exactly, did you extract that 50-60% number ?
> *Using my Fractal Minis dual front 120 setup as an example. The filters are
> located at the backside of the direction of the 2 fans. Incoming air is filtered
> before it touches the fans path. Are in fact, my Noctua fans are being supplied
> sufficient volumes of air based on the fans specification ? Is indeed the fans
> losing any cooling abilities due to the filter ? Being that my idle temps are
> pretty much static at 29-30 C , i'd tend to believe the filter is causing a neglible
> amount of loss. So in fact, for incoming air......it's possible there is no loss at all
> based on the fans position & the spec of the fan itself ???.*
> What worries me about no filter, is the fact that dust kills sensitive electronics.
> Plus, it's a fact.....dusty componets run hotter = def NOT good.
> So wouldn't the benifit of moving more air, be negated by the fact
> you're allowing dangerous (electronic killing) dust and dirt inside ?


While I generally agree that the filters are a good thing, I would guess that the quoted figure is not far off....based on being a firefighter for a dozen years...where the conventional wisdom is that a window screen will reduce airflow by approximately 50% during powered ventilation. My quick google search found this thread:

http://www.firehouse.com/forums/t101239/

I'm too lazy to find the real source.









Of course, the number goes higher as the screen (or filter) becomes clogged with matter....and the type of filter also matters of course.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Half Blood Pimp*
> 
> Ah yes, I didn't even think about that. That would create negative pressure inside the case wouldn't it? Ah well, guess I won't do that then.
> I have all stock filters on and four intake/ one exhaust fan at the moment. I don't think it would be necessary to install additional filters on top of the stock ones to the intakes, would it?


I like to have more air coming in than out...so I can ensure that I control where the air is coming in - i.e., through my intake fans and through their filters....not getting sucked in through every crack and opening,

I also pulled my rear fan. It can actually get in the way of the CPU exhaust airflow and potentially increase CPU temps as opposed to just an open hole. I believe it is due to the fact that most case fans aren't ramping up at the same RPM as the CPU fan...and the CPU cooler fan then has to push its air through a lower RPM case exhaust fan. There is actually a great thread in the air cooling forums with hard temp data for various test setups with a range of different fans for the Hyper 212 CPU cooler...and the result is clear for that cooler at least: no rear fan = lower CPU temps. Of course, everyone's setup is different...so there is no substitute for running your own test with your specific rig.


----------



## lurker2501

New Power Supply Line by Fractal Design



http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=3&prod=83


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> New Power Supply Line by Fractal Design
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=3&prod=83


That actually looks pretty damn nice.

Any info on the actual PSU manufacturer? Seems my Google-Fu isn't finding much info on these bad boys.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> New Power Supply Line by Fractal Design
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=3&prod=83


Wow, that is sharp looking. I wonder if they will make a black version too?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That actually looks pretty damn nice.
> 
> Any info on the actual PSU manufacturer? Seems my Google-Fu isn't finding much info on these bad boys.


They claim it's Chuck Norris, but it's still unconfirmed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Wow, that is sharp looking. I wonder if they will make a black version too?


Seems like they will:


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Any info on the actual *PSU manufacturer*?


The "most" *important* question.....


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> The "most" *important* question.....


Yessir. Keeping fingers crossed. I spot a 5 year warranty, and other nice specs for the Newton series.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Any info on the actual PSU manufacturer? Seems my Google-Fu isn't finding much info on these bad boys.


Probably ATNG since they've worked with each other before, I've already sent an email to Fractal (from work) asking the same thing. We'll see if they actually answer me


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I spot a *5 year warranty*, and other nice specs for the Newton series.


Nice... it could be my next PSU then. Looking forward to this.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Absolutely beautiful, but rebranded is not that attractive to me...and yes, I say that as a Corsair PSU owner


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> , but rebranded is not that attractive to me...


The whole re-branding thing's a huge business.

A good forum thread which address's lots of the who's who and what is what :
http://www.overclock.net/t/1177728/the-problem-with-a-single-psu-brand


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so last night I decided to remove the front fan filter and placed DiNoc carbon fiber vinyl on some cardboard. Here are the results. (I want to give Thanks to everyone else that has done this mod)


Hey guys I just bought a Maxmus V GENE and I'm thinking of ordering a Fractal Design, I was looking at this mod and wanted to know if it was hard to do? It looks really awesome. Sorry if I'm off topic I just saw this a few pages back and thought it looked cool.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hey guys I just bought a Maxmus V GENE and I'm thinking of ordering a Fractal Design, I was looking at this mod and wanted to know if it was hard to do? It looks really awesome. Sorry if I'm off topic I just saw this a few pages back and thought it looked cool.


nope, it's real easy, just remove the from panel, remove the fans, straighten the mess tabs that hold the mess to the front, removed the mess, remove the foam, cut out the plastic that held the foam in place, reinstall the metal mess, reinstall the fans, reinstall front panel and your done! to clean it up a bit, i put a piece of black painted cardboard behind the metal mess where the foam was, but this is just a cosmetic choice.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Okay cool, What are the options for watercooling in the Arc Mini? Can I Jam a RS240 kit in there?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Okay cool, What are the options for watercooling in the Arc Mini? Can I Jam a RS240 kit in there?


Here's mine, specs are below:









My RS240 is being cooled by 2 x FBA12G12L1BX, which are 38mm fans, so you can use a thicker rad, you'll just need thiner fans.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Alright, Thanks your the help. I'll be buying a Arc Mini in the near future hope to join the club.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hey guys I just bought a Maxmus V GENE and I'm thinking of ordering a Fractal Design, I was looking at this mod and wanted to know if it was hard to do? It looks really awesome. Sorry if I'm off topic I just saw this a few pages back and thought it looked cool.


Thanks ANDMYGUN!! Pretty much what Kaneda13 said and I actually got the idea from his mod. The only trouble that I had was making the holes for the fans on the cardboard. After trial and error...I was able to align the holes to the fans just right. After that, I just applied the Carbon Fiber vinyl on it and trimmed everything out with a hobby knife.


----------



## Paul_M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> nope, it's real easy, just remove the from panel, remove the fans, straighten the mess tabs that hold the mess to the front, removed the mess, remove the foam, cut out the plastic that held the foam in place, reinstall the metal mess, reinstall the fans, reinstall front panel and your done! to clean it up a bit, i put a piece of black painted cardboard behind the metal mess where the foam was, but this is just a cosmetic choice.


I will try do this mod this weekend, thanks for this tip, just ons question, where´s your DVD player?


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> The whole re-branding thing's a huge business.
> A good forum thread which address's lots of the who's who and what is what :
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1177728/the-problem-with-a-single-psu-brand


Yeah, I went into my AX750 with my eyes open with regards to its Seasonic lineage and Corsair's modifications...and didn't mind given Corsair's rep, the killer warranty (7 years), and the great deal that I got...but in general, I'd rather go to the source if all other things are equal.


----------



## AbdullahG

Anyone know where to get that black sheeting stuff to replace the dust filter that comes with FD cases?
I hate the look the filter gives...


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> I will try do this mod this weekend, thanks for this tip, just ons question, where´s your DVD player?


it's external, see the build specs below.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Anyone know where to get that black sheeting stuff to replace the dust filter that comes with FD cases?
> I hate the look the filter gives...


I think they are just painting cardboard and sticking it in there.


----------



## MME1122

Her guys, I'm thinking about getting a Define Mini. I won't be all out watercooling right away, but depending on the budget, I might start with the H100 and a slight mod. I wanted to get some opinions though.

My idea is to use the existing top 120 mm spot and make a cut to add a second 120m and a 240 rad. The rad would be inside and then I'd get a fan shroud (something like this), mount it on top, and put the fans inside. I'm thinking of painting the shroud white. Do you guys think a dual 140 mm setup would work too? I'd like to keep the entire lower 5.25 bay clear, but the top will be only for a fan controller so I think a little overlap with the rad would be ok.

I'm wondering how much space there is between the top of the case and the motherboard, and if a 240 rad will hit the 5.25 bays or not. I'm also wondering if I can have a 120 rad (H80?) on the back still, or at least a fan.


----------



## ishy3

just thought id post a pic of my new arc midi








just needs another 460 and an ssd in there.


----------



## mironccr345

I love this little case. Just though I'd share my FD Core1k.


----------



## andrews2547

Is anyone using a Arctic Freezer i30 in an Arc Midi? I want to know if it will fit in the case properly







I'm building a rig for a friend (see friends build in my sig) and the Arctic Freezer i30 is the only choice I have without going over budget. The website I am getting all the parts from only sell the Arctic Freezer i30 and the Noctua NH-D14 which is £40 more and I would have to buy a socket 1155 adapter from somewhere else.

I'm asking this because I have a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo and that just about fits in my case, the Arctic Freezer i30 is slightly taller than the 212 Evo.


----------



## ishy3

hi, the arctic freezer i30 is 161mm in height and the arc midi supports coolers upto 180mm so it should be fine.
i got the info off fd website


----------



## andrews2547

Thanks







I don't know why I didn't look on the Fractal site


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ishy3*
> 
> just thought id post a pic of my new arc midi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just needs another 460 and an ssd in there.


Nice looking rig man. One thing I would do, is to get a couple of Sata cables that turn down instead of up so that you can hide them a little better, and to turn your cooler fan so that the power cable comes out the top (closest to your MB) instead of the side. It'll make it easier to hide also.


----------



## ishy3

thanks







ye im hoping to get a different cooler soon so i didnt bother sorting that fan wire out, i thought the sata cables would point down so was a bit gutted when they didnt.gonna order some new sata cables and some black sleeving for any other wires that are exposed.


----------



## Ramsey77

Got bored at work tonight. Made a "proof of concept" for a future project. The LED's are only running at 9 volts and lit from the bottom. I imagine it would look awesome at 12 volts and surrounded.










All lit up.


----------



## DJKAY

Hey Guys, see what just came in this morning











Just a quick build but it`s actually disassembled again ready for some mod`s










Actually I`ve moved the back 140 to the top.

Some more Pics










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





From left to right: my OFFICE PC in an IKEA VIKA-Case, my Hyper-V-Server in the R3 and the empty Arc Mid


----------



## Ramsey77

Sweet.


----------



## macarule

That CPU cooler is huge!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Sweet.


Thanks mate








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> That CPU cooler is huge!


Yes it is ^^









It`s Skythe`s Mugen 2 Rev. B with my paintjob und dual be quiet Silent Wings PWM


----------



## Paul_M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Hey Guys, see what just came in this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a quick build but it`s actually disassembled again ready for some mod`s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I`ve moved the back 140 to the top.
> Some more Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From left to right: my OFFICE PC in an IKEA VIKA-Case, my Hyper-V-Server in the R3 and the empty Arc Mid


Amazing! congrats! That Cooler is huge...







:thumb:


----------



## Paul_M

And today i finished the MOD in the front, it was very easy, and now it looks waaaaaaay better without that plastic thing.

Also, mounted the Kühler on the top, it´s the only way to get the Silverstone AP-181 on my side panel.

So now i have the 2x 140mm FD on the front, 1x FS 140mm on the top as intake, and the AK and 2x Silverstone AP-121 alongside him. The original Antec fan in the rear as exhaust, the AP-181 on the side panel, and an Aerocool shark 120mmm in the bottom as intake. For now im happy with this config, lets see how it works.


----------



## ishy3

that looks sweet! be even better with 12v, did you make the fd sign? looks professional


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ishy3*
> 
> that looks sweet! be even better with 12v, did you make the fd sign? looks professional


Yeah, I printed a logo off the nets, and used it like a stencil. Then painted the rest satin black. I am doing the main mod tonight, this was just a test. The next one should be even better.


----------



## FractalDesign

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Hey Guys, see what just came in this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a quick build but it`s actually disassembled again ready for some mod`s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually I`ve moved the back 140 to the top.
> Some more Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From left to right: my OFFICE PC in an IKEA VIKA-Case, my Hyper-V-Server in the R3 and the empty Arc Mid


Good and clean one!
Want to see your mods of that baby







))


----------



## bortoloj

Hello








I Have do the MOD in the front of my arc mini.
I've delete this ***** of plastic







and it"s really nice


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I Have do the MOD in the front of my arc mini.
> I've delete this ***** of plastic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it"s really nice
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good one








The fans` LED doing a dominating job!
Have you problems with dust in your case without the filters in the front?


----------



## bortoloj

There are a lot of dust because the pc is on the floor.
I think placed on a unit there would be less.


----------



## ishy3

good stuff! im gonna keep an eye on your mods, the glass side panel you made looks really nice and its got me thinkin


----------



## bortoloj

I don't make a side panel I just removed it ^^ but I'm working on it


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> I don't make a side panel I just removed it ^^ but I'm working on it


right one dude








I`ll also try my luck with some window-mods because I can`t see the ugly mesh on the side pannel anymore








But it would be a real pain if I`ll fail!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ishy3*
> 
> good stuff! im gonna keep an eye on your mods, the glass side panel you made looks really nice and its got me thinkin


I think he was replying back to me. Ishy, you need to use the "quote" feature when you reply to an older post to avoid confusion.







But we ain't mad at ya.









http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/2500#post_17281406


----------



## ishy3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I think he was replying back to me. Ishy, you need to use the "quote" feature when you reply to an older post to avoid confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But we ain't mad at ya.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/2500#post_17281406


haha oh ye sorry just noticed that


----------



## Mareon

Hi there,

Thanks a lot for your help on this thread, I finished assembling my Arc Midi today









So here is my "mid gamer" rig since October 2011 in his new case :
MB : Asus M5A97
RAM : 2x4 Go Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600Mhz
Processor : AMD Phenom IIx4 965BE @ 3.4 Ghz
Graphics : Asus EAH6950 DirectCUII 2Go
PSU : OCZ ZT 650W

SSD : Crucial M4 128Go
HDD : Seagate Barracuda 1To 7200tpm
ODD : Samsung Multi
LED : 2 meters NZXT white (didn't think it would look soooo good!







)
A window will be mounted very soon









Cooling :
Processor : Antec Kühler 620 with 2 Alpenföhn PWM (push/pull)
Front : 2x140mm BeQuiet Silent Wings (fits perfectly in the Arc bezel without any modification







)
Top : 2x140mm BeQuiet Silent Wings

I tried to make some cable management even if I am not good at it, but to my mind, I think it looks pretty good









Photos made with Samsung Galaxy S2 :




































There is room for big GPU



































Hope my pictures are not too bad!


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there,
> Thanks a lot for your help on this thread, I finished assembling my Arc Midi today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my "mid gamer" rig since October 2011 in his new case :
> MB : Asus M5A97
> RAM : 2x4 Go Corsair Vengeance DDR3 @ 1600Mhz
> Processor : AMD Phenom IIx4 965BE @ 3.4 Ghz
> Graphics : Asus EAH6950 DirectCUII 2Go
> PSU : OCZ ZT 650W
> SSD : Crucial M4 128Go
> HDD : Seagate Barracuda 1To 7200tpm
> ODD : Samsung Multi
> LED : 2 meters NZXT white (didn't think it would look soooo good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> A window will be mounted very soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling :
> Processor : Antec Kühler 620 with 2 Alpenföhn PWM (push/pull)
> Front : 2x140mm BeQuiet Silent Wings (fits perfectly in the Arc bezel without any modification
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Top : 2x140mm BeQuiet Silent Wings
> I tried to make some cable management even if I am not good at it, but to my mind, I think it looks pretty good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Photos made with Samsung Galaxy S2 :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is room for big GPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope my pictures are not too bad!






Nice rig Maren! How are you liking those BeQuiet fans? It's too bad that OCZ PSU fan sounds like a jet engine under load. You ever think of changing the fan out? I did it to my OCZ 750w because it was the loudest thing in my folding rig.


----------



## Mareon

Thanks









BeQuiet fans are great you just can't hear them! but I always used them in mesh cases, I don't know if they are efficient in closed cases like cooler master silencio for example...

The OCZ psu does not bother me cause even in charge, my computer may not exeed 450 Watts


----------



## airdeano

hey folks,
im decommisioning my Corsair 800D fully and moving the camp to the Fractal Design Arc Midi.
the 800D was large, to say but in some aspects was a small area case. due to the mid-plate,
hot swap bays, and stature of the opti-bays. wit h that said, i have an Asus Maximus IV Extreme-Z
(Z68 w/2550k CPU) and was wondering with the ATX boards, this one is 1.0" wider; which
looks to come out almost mid rubber grommet. i'd like to use the MIVE-Z if possible. is this a
headache or doable? then if so, i can move my water-cooling also. will have to re-structure
a lil bit, but it looks like it'll fit (with shoe-horn) 120x3x60mm (i dont use optis). if not, i can
settle on air cooling (NH-D14) and some fanage.

also, i'm having a hard-time with e-tailers to order items for the FDAMidi (front panel, top panel
and side panels). ive asked to pay for they in advance and will wait on stock order shipment,
do you think the FD headquarters in Cali can help? whom do i ask for? i do modify my cases
and like to have a back-up or donor to have for the mods.

input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BeQuiet fans are great you just can't hear them! but I always used them in mesh cases, I don't know if they are efficient in closed cases like cooler master silencio for example...
> The OCZ psu does not bother me cause even in charge, my computer may not exeed 450 Watts


How did you end up mounting the be Quiet fans?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> also, i'm having a hard-time with e-tailers to order items for the FDAMidi (front panel, top panel
> and side panels). ive asked to pay for they in advance and will wait on stock order shipment,
> do you think the FD headquarters in Cali can help? whom do i ask for? i do modify my cases
> and like to have a back-up or donor to have for the mods.
> input would be greatly appreciated.


several of us have inquired about getting case parts, and to no avail yet. we where told that they will be releasing a windowed side panel, but no date on the. i too wanted to get a back-up side panel for when i cut my window, but i just had to fly without a safety net...


----------



## Mareon

@ Macarule : the bezel has a frame and 2 pins for each fan, so I just clip the fan in those 2 pins and it holds... This is really sufficient, no need to mod it











Note : this is not my fan I have the other kind of attach from BeQuiet but it works the same!

Sorry if I'm not easy to understand i have a lack of vocabulary, but in one word : you can put any BeQuiet fan in the front of this case without any modification


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> ... i too wanted to get a back-up side panel for when i cut my window, but i just had to fly without a safety net...


the best interest on parts so far is NCIX, but they hadn't gotten back with me, yet. Fractal has been kind enough to supply the part numbers:

6901498 Arc Midi front panel
6901499 Arc Midi top panel
6901503 Arc Midi left side panel

now the price and date of arrival is what NCIX is finding out. i'd like to see if they'll service the North America since others will not.

airdeano


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> the best interest on parts so far is NCIX, but they hadn't gotten back with me, yet. Fractal has been kind enough to supply the part numbers:
> 6901498 Arc Midi front panel
> 6901499 Arc Midi top panel
> 6901503 Arc Midi left side panel
> now the price and date of arrival is what NCIX is finding out. i'd like to see if they'll service the North America since others will not.
> airdeano


thanks for the info, i'll be waiting to see what happens... (and hoping they get some Arc Mini parts in too)


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> BeQuiet fans are great you just can't hear them! but I always used them in mesh cases, I don't know if they are efficient in closed cases like cooler master silencio for example...


How do they compare against Wing Boost's ?

Nice rig BTW.


----------



## Mareon

the wing boost are pretty nice too









I mean you will hear them a 100% speed (tested in AI Suite, really loud at 1500 rpm!) but in my case, they are around 550 rpm and with high CPU charges, they increase until 900 or 1000 rpm.
And there is a radiator between them so of course, it makes more noise than the BeQuiet but Alpenföhn rocks, they are simply a must have to my mind









Note : I like silence so maybe my judgement is a little bit hard


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mareon*
> 
> BeQuiet fans are great you just can't hear them! but I always used them in mesh cases, I don't know if they are efficient in closed cases like cooler master silencio for example...
> 
> 
> 
> How do they compare against Wing Boost's ?
> Nice rig BTW.
Click to expand...

Be Quiet's fans, especially the new ones, are one of the best fans a silence freak can buy. The wing boosts are great fans too, but in silence I personally think that the Be Quiet's triumph.


----------



## NguyenAdam

I need to save up some money to get myself a R3. I'm getting kinda tired okf my Lian Li.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Be Quiet's fans, especially the new ones, are one of the best fans a silence freak can buy. The wing boosts are great fans too, but in silence I personally think that the Be Quiet's triumph.


O yeah the Silent Wings 2 Series is just goodlike even on heatsink performance!
They actually don`t reach exact NFF12 but they look just extremly better.
By the Way im some kind of an be quiet freak - the name says everything and I think they do their job as best in the market.
If I`m going to go water on my ARC mid the Silent Wings 2 will find their place


----------



## adridu59

Personally I'm going for Fractal Design SSR2. still waiting for reviews through.


----------



## WoodiE

Ordered my Arc Mini last night, any recommend "things to do first" before installing all the parts?


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> Ordered my Arc Mini last night, any recommend "things to do first" before installing all the parts?


To be honest, if you've ever assembled a case before it's pretty straightforward. Just re-arrange the fans to suite your configuration and take out the top hard drive cage if you don't need it to improve the airflow. I can't think of anything else, but maybe one of the other members here will chime in. Good luck and have fun.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> O yeah the Silent Wings 2 Series is just goodlike even on heatsink performance!
> They actually don`t reach exact NFF12 but they look just extremly better.
> By the Way im some kind of an be quiet freak - the name says everything and I think they do their job as best in the market.
> If I`m going to go water on my ARC mid the Silent Wings 2 will find their place


Aye, they don't keep heatsinks as cool as the F12's do, but the F12's are noisier so it's kinda what you're after. Would be my choice for watercooling fans also, or akasa apaches maybe...


----------



## Kaneda13

I've always been partial to the Scythe Slipstreams, these are the ones i use in my case for intake case fans.


----------



## WoodiE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> To be honest, if you've ever assembled a case before it's pretty straightforward. Just re-arrange the fans to suite your configuration and take out the top hard drive cage if you don't need it to improve the airflow. I can't think of anything else, but maybe one of the other members here will chime in. Good luck and have fun.


Oh no I've built a computer or two in my time. I'm talking more of the lines of computer case mods. I'm thinking some of the plastic behind the fans needs to go - for better air flow.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> Oh no I've built a computer or two in my time. I'm talking more of the lines of computer case mods. I'm thinking some of the plastic behind the fans needs to go - for better air flow.


If you're after performance and/or silence, def switch the fans and the configuration. You could for example switch the rear fan to front so you'd have 2x front, 1x top and the heatsink fans. The stock fans are ok, but I know I wouldnt use 'em.
Removing plastic and filter from front would give you better airflow, and as someone already noted: take the upper cage out if you don't need it, or at least flip it around.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Anyone know where to get that black sheeting stuff to replace the dust filter that comes with FD cases?
> I hate the look the filter gives...


I'm also curious about this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> I've always been partial to the Scythe Slipstreams, these are the ones i use in my case for intake case fans.


I love Sliptstreams, well actually I just love Scythe fans on general.


----------



## WoodiE

I've got a number of Scythe fans that I plan on using two in front blowing in, the one in back blowing in and then attach my H70 to the top with a fan blowing up and out. The top drive cage I plan on removing to allow better airflow as well.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> I've always been partial to the Scythe Slipstreams, these are the ones i use in my case for intake case fans.


I use the 1900 rpm version as my front intakes as well. Best fans for a fan controller imo. They are quiet at low rpm and move massive amounts of air at high.


----------



## darksen

very sexy case, I'm also looking forward to the new FD fans. I'm tired of painting my YLoons to fit midi color


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darksen*
> 
> I'm also looking forward to the new FD fans. I'm tired of painting my YLoons to fit midi color


----------



## DavidTiger

Got a little bored and decided to open up my case and remove the 2nd hard drive bays, since I don't need them and looks a lot cleaner










Green LED strips light up the case from inside, along with some tidy cable management!!


Also took the drive bay blank and glued it to the drive tray, works great.. opens and closes without a problem








Forgot to take a pic with the drive open, but trust me theres a dvd drive in the top bay


----------



## dtjerr

quick question, can't find the answer on the interwebz, so hoping someone here knows









Will the thermalright silver arrow CPU cooler fit in a fractal design arc mini?

And will it fit in a fractal design arc midi?


----------



## DavidTiger

The mini is 210mm wide and the midi is 230mm wide..

The silver arrow is only 163mm tall.. So I guess it would fit in both cases with enough room


----------



## dtjerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DavidTiger*
> 
> The mini is 210mm wide and the midi is 230mm wide..
> The silver arrow is only 163mm tall.. So I guess it would fit in both cases with enough room


Yea, but currently i have a NZXT hades (hate this case..) and in it, it won't fit. But, i just discovered the hades is only 20 cm wide, and i thought it was 21 too...

Still, i would like to know if anyone has any experience with the silver arrow in it, or perhaps the noctua NH-D14 since they're about the same height.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Personally I'm going for Fractal Design SSR2. still waiting for reviews through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2382352/width/600/height/446/flags/


Ooh, nice - glad to see they've moved away from sleeve bearings, and got some case fans with more oomph to 'em


----------



## cheewah0

Hi guys,

After a long 6 months of research and loads of reading I thought I'd pay homage to the club and post my first ever water cooling build.

First things first, I did use a lot of ideas from this forum and I would like to thank everyone on the forum for your help - if I nicked your idea it was because I thought it was fantastic! I would also like to take this opportunity to give special thanks to Scorpion49 who gave me a lot of advice for my build

















For those who are interested, parts are as follows:
1) Fractal Design Arc Mini (Most important unit!)
2) Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z/GEN3
3) Intel i5 2500k
4) 16GB Crucial Ballistix Elite PC3-12800 8-8-8-24
5) Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti 448 (ruined my black, red, white settings







)
6) Corsair AX850
7) 256GB Vertex 4, 120GB Intel 320 (from old PC) and a 120GB OCZ Apex (from a veeeery old laptop)
8) NZXT Mix
9) Lian Li BZ-525B (originally a Sharkoon SATA QuickPort 6 but was way too noisy)
10) 8 Zalman ZM-ZF3 120mm fans
11) Zalman ZM-RC1000
12) 2 Koolance HX-CU720V
13) 1 Koolance HX-CU420V
14) Koolance PMP-450
15) XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for D5
16) Phobya Noise Destroyer
17) Koolance CPU-370
18) Koolance GPU-220 with Koolance Video RAM Heat Sinks
19) A lot of compression fittings from Koolance
20) Primochill White PrimoFlex - all 10mm (3/8") ID and 13mm (1/2") OD
21) White BitFenix SATA cables which are too short (bought the wrong length







)
22) White paint









On picture 6 & 7 shows my current overclocks (Prim95 stable for 24 hours - ran twice) 4.5Ghz @ 1.280VCORE & GPU currently at 850Mhz, 4000Mhz Memory, 1700Mhz Shader

CPU temps while running Prime95 is 55 degrees at max while GPU running FurMark hits 51 Degrees.

Would definitely appreciate your feedback and where I can further improve this (besides changing my GPU!). I would also be extremely happy if I could be signed up to the Fractal Design club


----------



## dtjerr

Very nice, have you done any modding except for painting the grills?


----------



## cheewah0

Thanks dtjerr, I only removed the HDD bays (drilled out the rivets).

The case was really great with one exception, as mentioned I have 8 Zalman ZM-SF3s but for some reason the ones mounted in front are abnormally louder even after putting in rubber washers to reduce vibrations.


----------



## dtjerr

Wow, it sucks with the front fans.. But there must be a solution to this, and i will find it!







.. That is, if i buy the case


----------



## misterD

Before:
AMD 955, at default clock under load it went to 65° :S


After: Arc Midi
Overclocked to 4.0, max temp 55°, idle 30°

I think i'm gonna buy a acryl panel as sidepanel


----------



## misterD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheewah0*
> 
> Thanks dtjerr, I only removed the HDD bays (drilled out the rivets).
> The case was really great with one exception, as mentioned I have 8 Zalman ZM-SF3s but for some reason the ones mounted in front are abnormally louder even after putting in rubber washers to reduce vibrations.


I have this case for 1 day and i bought the Be Quiet Shadow Wings fans; with a max of 17 dB @ 1000RPM to attach in the front, then i bought a fancontroller and even at the lowest setting this fans are making a anoying noise!! It's so frustrating because i have the same fans attached to the cpu and gpu and at 50% speed they make less sound than the fans at front at lowest speed!!!


----------



## solsamurai

Fans tend to be a little noisier when behind mesh and air filters. Have you tried running the fans outside the case to confirm this?


----------



## cheewah0

Hi solsamurai, I tried removing the grills and the filter but it still does the same noise. I think it is because it is only clipped in and therefore makes a weird vibrating sound.

On that note, the front two ZM-SF3 on 1/4 power through the NZXT Mix is dead quiet and I don't see myself ever needing all my fans at full as my temps are quite low.


----------



## solsamurai

Did you run them outside the case as well? I figured it had something to do the way they mount to the front panel. It's also good to make sure the noise misterD is hearing is not coming from the bearings.


----------



## misterD

With me the fans are silent when removed from the frontpanel, when i insert the fans i have the noise again...

Pretty stupid for a 95€ case...

So i placed some foam between the clips and fan and tada! Fan noise is very silent again

Cheewah0, try this!


----------



## solsamurai

There ya go! It's always the mesh, filters or vibrations!


----------



## surfbumb

i'm preparing to build my r3 setup and have one question.

Are 3 fans enough (2 front intake, 1 rear exhaust) for a single gpu setup?

If not I would add 1 more fan to one of the top exhaust spots.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> i'm preparing to build my r3 setup and have one question.
> Are 3 fans enough (2 front intake, 1 rear exhaust) for a single gpu setup?
> If not I would add 1 more fan to one of the top exhaust spots.


Some help info on this can be found in the Positive Airflow Cooling item in my sig.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheewah0*
> 
> Hi guys,
> After a long 6 months of research and loads of reading I thought I'd pay homage to the club and post my first ever water cooling build.
> First things first, I did use a lot of ideas from this forum and I would like to thank everyone on the forum for your help - if I nicked your idea it was because I thought it was fantastic! I would also like to take this opportunity to give special thanks to Scorpion49 who gave me a lot of advice for my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those who are interested, parts are as follows:
> 1) Fractal Design Arc Mini (Most important unit!)
> 2) Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z/GEN3
> 3) Intel i5 2500k
> 4) 16GB Crucial Ballistix Elite PC3-12800 8-8-8-24
> 5) Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti 448 (ruined my black, red, white settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 6) Corsair AX850
> 7) 256GB Vertex 4, 120GB Intel 320 (from old PC) and a 120GB OCZ Apex (from a veeeery old laptop)
> 8) NZXT Mix
> 9) Lian Li BZ-525B (originally a Sharkoon SATA QuickPort 6 but was way too noisy)
> 10) 8 Zalman ZM-ZF3 120mm fans
> 11) Zalman ZM-RC1000
> 12) 2 Koolance HX-CU720V
> 13) 1 Koolance HX-CU420V
> 14) Koolance PMP-450
> 15) XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for D5
> 16) Phobya Noise Destroyer
> 17) Koolance CPU-370
> 18) Koolance GPU-220 with Koolance Video RAM Heat Sinks
> 19) A lot of compression fittings from Koolance
> 20) Primochill White PrimoFlex - all 10mm (3/8") ID and 13mm (1/2") OD
> 21) White BitFenix SATA cables which are too short (bought the wrong length
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 22) White paint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On picture 6 & 7 shows my current overclocks (Prim95 stable for 24 hours - ran twice) 4.5Ghz @ 1.280VCORE & GPU currently at 850Mhz, 4000Mhz Memory, 1700Mhz Shader
> CPU temps while running Prime95 is 55 degrees at max while GPU running FurMark hits 51 Degrees.
> Would definitely appreciate your feedback and where I can further improve this (besides changing my GPU!). I would also be extremely happy if I could be signed up to the Fractal Design club


so how well do them zalman fans work? do they push much air?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dtjerr*
> 
> quick question, can't find the answer on the interwebz, so hoping someone here knows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will the thermalright silver arrow CPU cooler fit in a fractal design arc mini?
> And will it fit in a fractal design arc midi?


Yeah, Silver Arrow will fit to both cases (101% on midi, 99% sure on mini), I just installed a HR-02 Macho (162mm) in a mini at work (literally minutes ago). Fractal states the max cooler heights on their website btw, 165mm for mini and 180mm for midi








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> i'm preparing to build my r3 setup and have one question.
> Are 3 fans enough (2 front intake, 1 rear exhaust) for a single gpu setup?
> If not I would add 1 more fan to one of the top exhaust spots.


Ought to be fine. Will you be using the stock fans?
I had my 2500k @5ghz and 6950 TF3 crossfire in an R3 for few weeks and had 2 fans intake front, one exhaust top and cpu cooler fans exhausted through the rear, so that's 3 case fans and 2 on the cooler. The gpu temps were a bit on the toasty side, but the gpu's didn't have practically any gap between them so that made it a bit worse. If you're worried about GPU temps, put an intake to bottom or side panel.


----------



## cheewah0

@toyz72 - The Zalman SF3 are really good. From my opinion they do push a lot of air through and operate quietly. After long hours of playing, the case inside is still very cool and the only "warm" area is usually the power supply which I can't do much about sadly.

misterD - Thanks for the advice - will look for some "postage foam" and see if I can make it fit. Great thing about this case is that the front panel comes off easily.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misterD*
> 
> With me the fans are silent when removed from the frontpanel, when i insert the fans i have the noise again...
> Pretty stupid for a 95€ case...
> So i placed some foam between the clips and fan and tada! Fan noise is very silent again
> Cheewah0, try this!


True words man I think that they should have used a better way for mounting the fans. I got the same fans in the front but I have no noise problems at all








I will try your trick too for possible noise reduction.
Thanks for your tip.


----------



## WoodiE

Am I missing something or what? My Arc Mini case came in today and started tearing it apart to be ready for the rest of the parts tomorrow. I'm looking and unless I'm missing something the front fan filter is not removable is it? Or am I over looking something?


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> Am I missing something or what? My Arc Mini case came in today and started tearing it apart to be ready for the rest of the parts tomorrow. I'm looking and unless I'm missing something the front fan filter is not removable is it? Or am I over looking something?


You aren't missing anything.

Folks who remove it, do so to remove it permanently. The rest of us leave it in place and clean it in place. I use a vacuum brush attachment when my PC is off...being careful not to overdrive the fan RPM. Easy enough. That said, I wish that it was easily removable (and replaceable), but even if it was, I would probably still clean it in place...since that approach doesn't require me to remove the front and deal with my fairly tight fan wiring.


----------



## WoodiE

Aww well ain't a kick in the.

I was also hoping to cut away some of that extra plastic behind the filter. Maybe I can bend the mesh tabs then remove it and the filter and cut away the plastic.

Thanks for the quick response.


----------



## drBlahMan

I would like to join the fam & give props to Fractal Design







I'm currently modding my Core 1000..._*Here is a teaser pic*_


















_*And the images below are the inspiration for me to perform this face-lift...*_

























_*I'm gonna have a ton of fun with this mod project*_


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> I would like to join the fam & give props to Fractal Design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently modding my Core 1000..._*Here is a teaser pic*_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _*And the images below are the inspiration for me to perform this face-lift...*_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _*I'm gonna have a ton of fun with this mod project*_


Can't wait to see it, be sure to start a build log and post it here. And feel free to check out my build log for any ideas


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> Aww well ain't a kick in the.
> I was also hoping to cut away some of that extra plastic behind the filter. Maybe I can bend the mesh tabs then remove it and the filter and cut away the plastic.
> Thanks for the quick response.


Glad to help....and if you are motivated, you will find quite a few folks in this thread who have removed them...and created some pretty impressive slide-in panels with holes for the fans. Of course, those mods lose the filters entirely. Others have removed the stock filters and added various removable filters directly to the fans.

And I agree, it's a weak spot in the case.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Can't wait to see it, be sure to start a build log and post it here. And feel free to check out my build log for any ideas


_*Will do*_







Still waiting for some hardware & acrylic to be delivered. I'll check out your build log when I get home this evening..._*Thanks*_


----------



## WoodiE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Glad to help....and if you are motivated, you will find quite a few folks in this thread who have removed them...and created some pretty impressive slide-in panels with holes for the fans. Of course, those mods lose the filters entirely. Others have removed the stock filters and added various removable filters directly to the fans.
> And I agree, it's a weak spot in the case.


Oh nice, sounds like a pretty cool idea. I'll see if I can't find what you're referring to. Thanks!


----------



## Ramsey77

Made a bigger Fractal sign for my stand, and changed led's to white.
The red that you see is colored plastic that catches the light.


----------



## solsamurai




----------



## AbdullahG

Make me one please


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Make me one please


It actually isn't that hard. I used a scrap piece of Lexan, taped it with masking tape, printed a logo and used it for a stencil, cut it out with an Exacto knife, pulled the tape off of everything except the letters, painted it and the pulled the tape off the letters. Then I cut up a red plastic folder and taped it on the back. Practicing with the knife helps a bunch. Especially the curves and arcs. And remember to cut out the insides of the letters first!


----------



## airdeano

ok, ok, ok.. i just ordered my Fractal Design Arc Midi from NCIX (US) along with the extra
front, top and side panel (in stock). i gotta tell ya, they made it real easy to order this case.
i was about to drop the sale to an eBay seller, but NCIX came through with the extra pieces
and parts.
so it is time to empty the 800D and nVidia 690 cases.. gawd, i feel GOOD! all Midi inside!

airdeano


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> It actually isn't that hard. I used a scrap piece of Lexan, taped it with masking tape, printed a logo and used it for a stencil, cut it out with an Exacto knife, pulled the tape off of everything except the letters, painted it and the pulled the tape off the letters. Then I cut up a red plastic folder and taped it on the back. Practicing with the knife helps a bunch. Especially the curves and arcs. And remember to cut out the insides of the letters first!


Hmm, doesn't seem too difficult. Maybe time-consuming though. I won't be doing anything like that though for awhile unfortunately.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> It actually isn't that hard. I used a scrap piece of Lexan, taped it with masking tape, printed a logo and used it for a stencil, cut it out with an Exacto knife, pulled the tape off of everything except the letters, painted it and the pulled the tape off the letters. Then I cut up a red plastic folder and taped it on the back. Practicing with the knife helps a bunch. Especially the curves and arcs. And remember to cut out the insides of the letters first!


that'd be a SHARP knife or blade for crisp clean lines, dull edges drag your cut and bunch it up and
you get to start over.. and using the right pressure to just cut the tape and not the background.

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> thanks for the info, i'll be waiting to see what happens... (and hoping they get some Arc Mini parts in too)


they got every piece and will ship with the case, too.. top-notch i tell ya.

airdeano


----------



## vitality

Just ordered an Arc Midi off of newegg. Hopefully I like it! Should be perfect for me. Can anyone suggest some quiet 140mm fans? I ordered a single cooler master r4 to see if I like it, but am open to other suggestions.


----------



## cheewah0

A website that I use a lot to get information on fans is QuietPC - they list the noise to CFM ratio which is quite good









A good fan that I was recommended (but never got) was NoiseBlocker and they have really good reviews too


----------



## WoodiE

What are your thoughts in this fan configuration?

2x 120mm fans in front blowing in.
1x 120mm fan in back (behind a H70 cooler) blowing in.
1x. 140mm fan on top blowing out.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> What are your thoughts in this fan configuration?
> 2x 120mm fans in front blowing in.
> 1x 120mm fan in back (behind a H70 cooler) blowing in.
> 1x. 140mm fan on top blowing out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would possibel go with the H70 as an exhaust because there will go some dust in, but if you clean your case regulary that should be no problem








By the way I clean the dustfilters on the ARC nearly every week because I hate these **** dust rings in the front


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> What are your thoughts in this fan configuration?
> 2x 120mm fans in front blowing in.
> 1x 120mm fan in back (behind a H70 cooler) blowing in.
> 1x. 140mm fan on top blowing out.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


pretty close. with three intake 120mm and one 140mm exhaust would be a
very, very positive case pressure scenerio. possibly too much. the air would
stagnate and not cool well enough. add a second 140mm in the roof to better
balance the pressure, still a lil on the plus side (low dust inside case).

airdeano


----------



## Charlie--

Hi all,

1st post here. I joined the Fractal Design Case Club in late April after many months of deciding which of their cases to go for. 1st it was the R3 (Pearl Black) then the Arc Midi, Core 3000, Arc Mini, then back to the Core 3000 as it was very close to having a Arc Midi and cheaper, but had some vouchers and found the Arc Midi at a great price and went for it - I've not looked back.

Already been moding it - Sleeved the front panel cables (not the USB3 one tho'), the fan controller cables and a few other bits - I got a 200mm filter for the side intake and I have just ordered some Sharkoon Silent Eagle 800 140mm fans (x3) to replace the stock fans, as 2 of them made a weird ticking/clicking sound and I was not happy with them. I had a FD R1 140mm (800 RPM) fan that seemed to move more air and was quieter than the stock fans but went with the Sharkoon fans instead. I would have got the FD R2 140mm fans but can not find anywhere that sells them in the UK.

Here is a not great and bit boring photo (sorry), but I'm in the FD case club now and thought I would post it . I'll post more as the build progresses and those ones will be better







- Which it has but not taken any more photos yet - Doh!



P.S. Current plan for fan set up is x2 front intake and 1x rear (back) exhaust.


----------



## Ramsey77

Welcome to OCN and the Fractal Case Club Charlie. What kind of hardware are you filling your Midi with?


----------



## stevman17

Just to let you guys know, the clips on my front 2 x 140mm fan mount on my Define XL had broken. I emailed Fractal to let them know about it and to request a replacement. All I had to do was fill out a form and send them a picture of it. (The picture was optional.) I got a new fan mount in two days.









Good on you Fractal. I will certainly be getting one of their cases if I ever build a new computer. (Perhaps a small one!)


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vitality*
> 
> Just ordered an Arc Midi off of newegg. Hopefully I like it! Should be perfect for me. Can anyone suggest some quiet 140mm fans? I ordered a single cooler master r4 to see if I like it, but am open to other suggestions.


I have NZXT FX series fans. They have 3 settings. They match the white on black Fractal theme. On low or medium they cool very well and are almost silent. If you need more cooling you can bump them up to high, and they will sound like a jet engine which is pretty awesome.









Pic:


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Welcome to OCN and the Fractal Case Club Charlie. What kind of hardware are you filling your Midi with?


Cheers for the welcome.

Well due to a tight budget it's a Frankenstein build







So I have a few steps to this build.

Current plan:

Silent PC & cooling 600W PSU (bought & in)
3x Sharkoon SE 800 140mm fans (bought - awaiting del)
Then putting the parts from a slightly (self) upgraded Dell Vostro 200 (E4400 4GB RAM GT440 GPU etc) in.
Upgrade to Win 7 Pro (bought)

Next step:

Upgrade mobo, CPU, RAM and HSF. etc

Yes a strange build, but a man gotta do what a man gotta a do - Will will be great for my needs in the end - Fingers crossed.


----------



## shockre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> What are your thoughts in this fan configuration?
> 2x 120mm fans in front blowing in.
> 1x 120mm fan in back (behind a H70 cooler) blowing in.
> 1x. 140mm fan on top blowing out.


i had arc mini with vents like that + another 140mm on top. it was not good, hot air was in the middle of the case and it would not go out properly. i put 140mm fan on the side panel and its great now, temps are 5-10C lower, depending on the component and hot air goes up through top vents like it should.

tl;dr
put 140mm fan on the side panel.


----------



## misterD

Just finished my side panel







pretty simple casemod but i like it


----------



## Ramsey77

Hey MisterD, how did you attach yours to your case?


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misterD*
> 
> Just finished my side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty simple casemod but i like it
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice side mod - Are you using the stock fans that came with the case & what HSF are you using there?


----------



## cheewah0

Hi WoodiE my two pence is that it is better to have the back and top pushing air out. If you think you need further cooling, put a 120mm fan at the bottom. Good thing about that is you cool the GPU (if you are planning on having one) plus the fan at the bottom has a filter (Win Win!!!







)


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheewah0*
> 
> Hi WoodiE my two pence is that it is better to have the back and top pushing air out. If you think you need further cooling, put a 120mm fan at the bottom. Good thing about that is you cool the GPU (if you are planning on having one) plus the fan at the bottom has a filter (Win Win!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Agreed. My coolest temps are with this setup. You want a constant flow of cool, fresh air coming in the front/bottom exhausting out the top/rear.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Agreed. My coolest temps are with this setup. You want a constant flow of cool, fresh air coming in the front/bottom exhausting out the top/rear.


Sounds like a good set-up there, is it like so:-

2x front - intake
1x bottom - intake (120 or 140?)

& how many/& size exhausts at top/rear you have?

Why not one on the side? - I 've read mixed thoughts on that one and not sure whether to put one there myself as an intake

Cheers


----------



## WoodiE

Aww man, I just got finished putting the system together and Windows 7 is installing on it now. I'll monitor temps to see how it goes but right now my CPU temp after the first reboot of windows install is 30c.


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misterD*
> 
> Just finished my side panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pretty simple casemod but i like it






Looks good! I might do the same with my Core 1000!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Sounds like a good set-up there, is it like so:-
> 2x front - intake
> 1x bottom - intake (120 or 140?)
> & how many/& size exhausts at top/rear you have?
> Why not one on the side? - I 've read mixed thoughts on that one and not sure whether to put one there myself as an intake
> Cheers


*Intakes:*
2x 120mm Scythe Slipstream 1900rpm in front panel hooked up to fan controller.
1x 120mm Coolermaster Blademaster in the bottom hooked up via PWM motherboard pins.

*Exhaust:*
2x 140mm Scythe Kaze Maru 1700rpm in the top hooked up to fan controller.
1x 120mm Coolermaster Blademaster in the rear hooked up via PWM motherboard pins.

*CPU Cooler:*
2x 120mm Coolermaster Blademaster in Push/Pull configuration.

This set up yields the best flow and temps for me. I have tried the "no rear exhaust" approach, and found no improvement. IMO, the more fresh air you bring in, the better your cooler will perform, as long as you are exhausting all of the hot air as well.

Blade Master

Scythe Kaze Maru 2

Scythe Slipstream

I can't use a side panel fan, because my cooler is too tall. I don't think it would improve anything, as my temps are pretty good. I'm satisfied anyway.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WoodiE*
> 
> Aww man, I just got finished putting the system together and Windows 7 is installing on it now. I'll monitor temps to see how it goes but right now my CPU temp after the first reboot of windows install is 30c.


What is your ambient temp in the room your pc is in? 30c at idle or low power usage is a great temp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Looks good! I might do the same with my Core 1000!


Not to pimp my own case or anything, but check the link in my sig for an easy side panel.


----------



## lurker2501

best panel- no panel







but each to his own


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> best panel- no panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but each to his own


You don't want to do that with a curious 3 year old running around!


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> You don't want to do that with a curious 3 year old running around!


HA! try it with a 7,6 and 2 year old. i'm contemplating a pad lock on my case.


----------



## misterD

Thanks, i used doublesided tape. And yes i use the stock fans but only at the rear and top. At the front and bottom i use Be Quiet Silent Wings fans, but i think you can only buy this in Europe. They generate max 17dB noise at 1000RPM so they are pretty quiet. Also, i have this fans attached at my CNPS10X heatsink, PSU and my GTX 560 gpu = pretty decent airflow, cfm and almost zero noise under load <3

To be honest, when i look at it it looks just gorgeous but on this pictures is don't look as good IRL







bit crispy i think, will make some high quality pics instead of this cellphonepics

Here some more


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misterD*
> 
> Thanks, i used doublesided tape


looks grand, but i like the idea Ramsey had about the e-tape alont the frame rails to blockout the
light bleeding through the open spaces. its on my list to have a clear side panel..

airdeano


----------



## Charlie--

Thanks for the info on your Fan setup Ramsey77 - I've picked up a good few tips there. I'm going to have 2x font intake and 1x rear Exhaust for now as it will be enough. Then add 2 more Exhaust at the top and on intake on the side. I wanted to have one at the bottom instead of the side but my PSU is in the way (I did measure before buying and it seems a fan would fit) but due to the modular cables being low I can't get a fan in there - Should have gone for the the HX750 - Oh well, I live and learn.

Hi, lurker2501 - I was not a fan of windowed side panels and was not bothered that the Arc Midi did not have one to buy as an option. However since owning the case I can not stop thinking about a side window (more so now having seen many great window mods on this forum) - I really want one now. I could not risk having no side panel on with a toddler and cat in the house.


----------



## cheewah0

Just a suggestion, if you are honestly worried about airflow, there is the option of having RAM coolers which I think are extremely underrated. I think this is quite important if you choose the water cooling option and choose not to water cool your mosfets/rams.

I hooked my Zalman ZM-RC1000 to the FD fan controller and you can only hear it if it goes above 80% power. Albeit your CPU temperature hardly decreases but it does cool down the MOSFETS and your memories which really helps to increase the lifespan of your products (plus I painted mine white so it blends in







)


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Outcasst*
> 
> In!
> Just finished my Arc Midi build. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice build you done there







- Any photos of the back of the case?

Just seen your link to to the British Overclockers Club - Will pop in there later. Also nice to see another great Arc case build from the West Midlands.


----------



## mironccr345

@outcaast. Very nice build and really clean.

I took out the 590 and put some 460's in the Core1K. What yah guys think?

]


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @outcaast. Very nice build and really clean.
> I took out the 590 and put some 460's in the Core1K. What yah guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


nice and clean, love it. good cable management in such a case too.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @outcaast. Very nice build and really clean.
> I took out the 590 and put some 460's in the Core1K. What yah guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Very nice set-up there - Looks fantastic, you have done very well considering there is not much room in the Core 1000 and you have a non-modular PSU too. 10/10


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @outcaast. Very nice build and really clean.
> I took out the 590 and put some 460's in the Core1K. What yah guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I really like the way you have build in the Core1K








I think itwas some kind of hart to do such antidy cablmanegement in this case. It just looks great








How are the temps with the 460? I`m shure they bring them together in a good sweat situation


----------



## Paul_M

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> @outcaast. Very nice build and really clean.
> I took out the 590 and put some 460's in the Core1K. What yah guys think?
> 
> ]


Amazing, well done, love this case!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paul_M*
> 
> Amazing, well done, love this case!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> I really like the way you have build in the Core1K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think itwas some kind of hart to do such antidy cablmanegement in this case. It just looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are the temps with the 460? I`m shure they bring them together in a good sweat situation


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> nice and clean, love it. good cable management in such a case too.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Very nice set-up there - Looks fantastic, you have done very well considering there is not much room in the Core 1000 and you have a non-modular PSU too. 10/10


Thanks guys! I had a little help with the HDD mount to hide the cables. The 460 temps were at 32-33c on idel, I haven't cranked them up to see how hot they'll get, but I would Image around 68-74c, depending on the ambient temp in my house. For $39.00 on newegg, I couldn't pass it up!


----------



## Charlie--

@Ramsey77 - or anyone that can help

Just a quick question, with your fan set-up and CPU cooler in a push/pull config' towards the rear of the case, does the exhaust fan highlighted green (in spoiler below) disrupt the air flow through the CPU cooler?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Cheers
Charlie


----------



## Ramsey77

Doesn't seem to bother mine at all.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Doesn't seem to bother mine at all.


Good to know & I was hoping you would say that









BTW what RPM do you normaly have that fan set at?

Cheers


----------



## Ramsey77

~1000 RPM


----------



## MiiX

Does someone know if its possible to mount a tripple-radiator (360) in the top of a Arc Mini Without removing the 5.25" bay cage?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Does someone know if its possible to mount a tripple-radiator (360) in the top of a Arc Mini Without removing the 5.25" bay cage?


no, it would hit the top of the drive bays. if you put the fans on top of the radiator, you might be abel to extend them into the middle of the 5.25" bays, but you would only be able to have 2 120mm fans on it.


----------



## ampy60

Finally got my last large component. Now im just trying to figure out what I want to do for lighting and maybe some fan adjustments.

All stock


----------



## Ramsey77

Very nice looking and tidy rig. Check my Sig out for some lighting ideas if you want.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Thanks guys! I had a little help with the HDD mount to hide the cables. The 460 temps were at 32-33c on idel, I haven't cranked them up to see how hot they'll get, but I would Image around 68-74c, depending on the ambient temp in my house. For $39.00 on newegg, I couldn't pass it up!


For 39,99$ you can never be on the wrong way








When we bought 120 of the Core1K (at work) we payed around 30€ per each one so you went with a pretty good deal!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> Finally got my last large component. Now im just trying to figure out what I want to do for lighting and maybe some fan adjustments.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All stock


Pretty clean build I like the way you made the window it just looks amzing!
The EVGA GTX 680 brings a good touch in it


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> For 39,99$ you can never be on the wrong way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When we bought 120 of the Core1K (at work) we payed around 30€ per each one so you went with a pretty good deal!


Your right about that! I hope the revised Core 1K, (if FD makes one) makes a cpu cut out and adds more room in the back panel for cable management.


----------



## Kaneda13

Some new toys arrived for me this morning...


----------



## jopy

will try to sleeves my gentle typhoon soon when the kits arrived


----------



## Charlie--

@jopy - Great build very nice









Has anyone else had issues with the two front 140mm intake fans in the Arc Midi? As they make a weird ticking/clicking noise (like the blades are catching on something, but I can not see anything in the way), really hard to describe the sound, but it's annoying.

*All these fans have this issue:*

FD case stock fans. - (OEM)

Fractal Design Silent Series - FD-FAN-140 (R1).

Sharkoon Silent Eagle 800.

All are worse when slowed down with the stock fan controller (ticking/clicking get louder) - the stock fans being the worst.

Cheers


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @jopy - Great build very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had issues with the two front 140mm intake fans in the Arc Midi? As they make a weird ticking/clicking noise (like the blades are catching on something, but I can not see anything in the way), really hard to describe the sound, but it's annoying.
> *All these fans have this issue:*
> FD case stock fans. - (OEM)
> Fractal Design Silent Series - FD-FAN-140 (R1).
> Sharkoon Silent Series 800.
> All are worse when slowed down with the stock fan controller (ticking/clicking get louder) - the stock fans being the worst.
> Cheers


i guess it's not the fans, it's the fan controller. had something similar when i lowered the fan speed of the fd stock fans that came with the case. try a different fanbus or non at all.


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @jopy - Great build very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had issues with the two front 140mm intake fans in the Arc Midi? As they make a weird ticking/clicking noise (like the blades are catching on something, but I can not see anything in the way), really hard to describe the sound, but it's annoying.
> *All these fans have this issue:*
> FD case stock fans. - (OEM)
> Fractal Design Silent Series - FD-FAN-140 (R1).
> Sharkoon Silent Series 800.
> All are worse when slowed down with the stock fan controller (ticking/clicking get louder) - the stock fans being the worst.
> Cheers


I have the stock fans running at 12V and don't hear this clicking your talking about, but I'll try lowering the voltage and report back.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @jopy - Great build very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had issues with the two front 140mm intake fans in the Arc Midi? As they make a weird ticking/clicking noise (like the blades are catching on something, but I can not see anything in the way), really hard to describe the sound, but it's annoying.
> *All these fans have this issue:*
> FD case stock fans. - (OEM)
> Fractal Design Silent Series - FD-FAN-140 (R1).
> Sharkoon Silent Series 800.
> All are worse when slowed down with the stock fan controller (ticking/clicking get louder) - the stock fans being the worst.
> Cheers


ty









no i dun have such problems,
various fans i tried on this r3: noiseblocker/oem/nzxt/scythe/antec/xigmatek.

u can try to take the fans out and try them without mounting, might be the case mounting area is bend or something ( the fan blade hitting the mesh etc), my top fan used to hit on my cooler wires
and made some similar ticking sound, louder ticking sound made when i press the top panel down.


----------



## Charlie--

Thanks for the help & replies @lurker2501, @ROM3000 & @jopy - I have tried all the fans I mentioned outside the case too and also on a direct 12v dc line from the molex on the psu. - I still get the sound but it is quieter so I am thinking that the front case housing is making that noise louder.

Would the way I am testing have an affect on this? As I only have the PSU in the case (all panels on) with the fans connected, I have tried with putting in more and less fans and in different positions.

Cheers


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Thanks for the help & replies @lurker2501, @ROM3000 & @jopy - I have tried all the fans I mentioned outside the case too and also on a direct 12v dc line from the molex on the psu. - I still get the sound but it is quieter so I am thinking that the front case housing is making that noise louder.
> Would the way I am testing have an affect on this? As I only have the PSU in the case (all panels on) with the fans connected, I have tried with putting in more and less fans and in different positions.
> Cheers


erm its an old psu or new psu? do you have any other alternate source to power the fans?
if its not hitting anything the default oem fans should be near silent when not mounted against any mesh
or surface.(should not have tat ticking sound)


----------



## Charlie--

It's a new PSU (PC Cooling & power 600W MKIII) - I do have a 5 yr old PSU I could test with. Maybe it's all fine and I just have super hearing in that range of sound or being to fussy. Something is not right tho' and it seems like one of those frustrating things that will end up being simple to fix.

Listening to it again it does sound like a HDD in constant movement, and it's not a HDD as there are none in the PC at the mo' and others that are in the room at the time are not on.


----------



## Pupo

few variations of my build with Arc Midi

1.st









then









then









later i added few details to build, but i forget to photograph it with decent camera



















unfortunately, i had to move on to another case because my curiosity, but in the future who knows and probably go on with Define


----------



## mrrockwell

Nice


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> It's a new PSU (PC Cooling & power 600W MKIII) - I do have a 5 yr old PSU I could test with. Maybe it's all fine and I just have super hearing in that range of sound or being to fussy. Something is not right tho' and it seems like one of those frustrating things that will end up being simple to fix.
> Listening to it again it does sound like a HDD in constant movement, and it's not a HDD as there are none in the PC at the mo' and others that are in the room at the time are not on.


see if u have the time to test with your old psu, if its still the same meaning its either other parts that is making the noise or ur being sensitive to noise







.

just fyi the hdd btw try to fasten as loose as possible, if you tighten too much the noise will be more amplified, saw this somewhere in this forum, my hdd was cranking alot of noise till i loosen them.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> see if u have the time to test with your old psu, if its still the same meaning its either other parts that is making the noise or ur being sensitive to noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> just fyi the hdd btw try to fasten as loose as possible, if you tighten too much the noise will be more amplified, saw this somewhere in this forum, my hdd was cranking alot of noise till i loosen them.


I've not had chance to test with old PSU (as it will mean pulling a system apart) will do when I get time. Thanks for the tip about the hdd after loosening the screws the noise from the front fans was less - I tried the fans as an exhaust (to rule out the blades catching on the front grill) but still had the same noise.

I'm thinking that the fans I have are duff and the FD-FAN-140 are too. Just read some reviews on Amazon about users complaining about a ticking sound, maybe this is a bad batch as other Fractal fans I've had have been fine, also probably my ears are sensitive. I don't mind the sound of air moving that's ok, just not ticking/clicking/whining etc. Going to get some 140mm high RPM ones (looking at Areocool Shark & NoiseBlocker at the mo') then use a fan control and/or use resisters to slow them down a bit.

Thanks again Jopy and others that have helped with this. - Back to building the Arc









Side topic - Sorry: The Sharkoon Silent Eagle 800 were rated at 55 CFM & the FD-FAN-140 at 39 CFM - Well the Fractal ones move way more air than the Sharkoons, strange.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> I've not had chance to test with old PSU (as it will mean pulling a system apart) will do when I get time. Thanks for the tip about the hdd after loosening the screws the noise from the front fans was less - I tried the fans as an exhaust (to rule out the blades catching on the front grill) but still had the same noise.
> I'm thinking that the fans I have are duff and the FD-FAN-140 are too. Just read some reviews on Amazon about users complaining about a ticking sound, maybe this is a bad batch as other Fractal fans I've had have been fine, also probably my ears are sensitive. I don't mind the sound of air moving that's ok, just not ticking/clicking/whining etc. Going to get some 140mm high RPM ones (looking at Areocool Shark & NoiseBlocker at the mo') then use a fan control and/or use resisters to slow them down a bit.
> Thanks again Jopy and others that have helped with this. - Back to building the Arc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Side topic - Sorry: The Sharkoon Silent Eagle 800 were rated at 55 CFM & the FD-FAN-140 at 39 CFM - Well the Fractal ones move way more air than the Sharkoons, strange.


didnt know fans have bad batch too








http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread
not sure if this thread gonna help ur fan search some kind soul tested a whole range of fans for a more consistence test setup

enjoy building your arc midi


----------



## AbdullahG

Okay, so I removed the front grills for the 120MM fan on my Core 1000. I'm thinking about cutting out the shape of the fan from the dust filter so the fan is completely exposed. Do you think it's a good idea in terms of aesthetics?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Okay, so I removed the front grills for the 120MM fan on my Core 1000. I'm thinking about cutting out the shape of the fan from the dust filter so the fan is completely exposed. Do you think it's a good idea in terms of aesthetics?


nope, it's terrible idea... (/end_sarcasm)


----------



## AbdullahG

That's gorgeous. What did you use for the sheeting around the fan?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> That's gorgeous. What did you use for the sheeting around the fan?


thick piece of cardboard, painted flat black. used a CD as a template to cut out the fans wholes.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> nope, it's terrible idea... (/end_sarcasm)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Seen that photo of the front fan mod a few times on this thread and every time I see it's WOW (I have that mod on a long to-do list) - Really like your build too, very nice (not so keen on the feet tho' sorry) seems like a lot of thought & work has gone into it.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> didnt know fans have bad batch too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread
> not sure if this thread gonna help ur fan search some kind soul tested a whole range of fans for a more consistence test setup
> enjoy building your arc midi


Most things tend to be made in batches. Thanks for the link, having a good read now.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Seen that photo of the front fan mod a few times on this thread and every time I see it's WOW (I have that mod on a long to-do list) - Really like your build too, very nice (not so keen on the feet tho' sorry) seems like a lot of thought & work has gone into it.


The feet came out of necessity. they are actually the crankshaft timing gears out of a mini cooper s. I needed something that would lift the case up a bit for better flow, and i had about 12 of them in the bottom of my tool box, so a little super-glue and some felt pads later.... TAH-DAH!


----------



## AbdullahG

Did my best with the dust filter. I'll eventually replace it with a more solid material.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Did my best with the dust filter. I'll eventually replace it with a more solid material.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2414374/width/395/height/700/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks good!


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> The feet came out of necessity. they are actually the crankshaft timing gears out of a mini cooper s. I needed something that would lift the case up a bit for better flow, and i had about 12 of them in the bottom of my tool box, so a little super-glue and some felt pads later.... TAH-DAH!


Now I have the background on the feet. I really like them more now (just thought they were just shop bought), that is a very neat idea and good mod - I reckon if you either painted them silver & black or maybe could you polish them up? - That would really complement your build more.

@AbdullahG - You mod is coming along and looks great so far.


----------



## jjr007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Actually they don't seem to be the same fans. These are the specs for 140 mm fans that you can buy separately :
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Specifications
> Dimensions: 140 x 140 x 25mm
> RPM: 800 +/- 10% RPM
> 
> 
> 
> And this is listed in Arc Midi specs :
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling system
> Fan controller for 3 fans included
> 1 front mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> 1 rear mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> 1 top mounted Fractal Design 140mm fan @ 1000rpm included
> Additional 5 fan slots available for optional fans; one 140mmin front, one 120/140mm in bottom, two 120/140mm in top and one 140/180mm in side panel
> Top panel can mount either 3x 120mm fans, 3x 140mm fans or 1x 180mm + 1x 120/140mm fans
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I didn't like mine, I replaced them with Thermalright X-Silent fans.
Click to expand...

How are the X-Silent fans? Better flow, temps, focus? I noticed the stock fans tend to blow out toward the edges of the fan.
I bought ty-140 fans for the rear exhaust , the bottom (near psu), and they seem to have a stronger
more focused flow. Now I am looking for the two stock fans I have in the front.


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjr007*
> 
> How are the X-Silent fans? Better flow, temps, focus? I noticed the stock fans tend to blow out toward the edges of the fan.
> I bought ty-140 fans for the rear exhaust , the bottom (near psu), and they seem to have a stronger
> more focused flow. Now I am looking for the two stock fans I have in the front.


X-Silent's are doing great but I have a 280 radiator behind them so I am not using them as case fans. I would expect them to work fine in that purpose as well.


----------



## Kaneda13

Got my new Rad up and in, leak checked and (hopefully) fully bled. i'll post some temp runs once everything gets seated in. My current flow order is:

Res/Pump -> CPU -> GPU -> EX120 -> RS240

Not much air going through the EX120 though, since it only has a case fan scythe on it, so i'll be upgrading that one first. Still scouring the web for review on the new corsair high static pressure fans.


----------



## shockre

awesome build mate!

only thing i would do is remove hdd case for cleaner looks as it seems you are not using it.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shockre*
> 
> awesome build mate!
> only thing i would do is remove hdd case for cleaner looks as it seems you are not using it.


i'm leaving it in for the single reason that it acts like a tunnel and helps focus the air from the front case fans back to the Ram and Mobo.


----------



## Huzzbutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i'm leaving it in for the single reason that it acts like a tunnel and helps focus the air from the front case fans back to the Ram and Mobo.


you should cover up the sides then, now it just creates unneccessary turbulence


----------



## stainlineho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i'm leaving it in for the single reason that it acts like a tunnel and helps focus the air from the front case fans back to the Ram and Mobo.


What are your temps like under load? Do you think you have enough raddage? What kind of OC are you running?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stainlineho*
> 
> What are your temps like under load? Do you think you have enough raddage? What kind of OC are you running?


After running Boinc at 100% on the GPU, and 7 of the 8 cores at 100% for an hour, everything topped out at 57C, with an ambient at 25C

I'm vaery happy with the rads now, but my fans are lacking badly, i have a medium speed Scythe on the EX120, andy can just barely feel air coming out the bottom. The chip is running at 3.36Ghz at stock voltage, and the video card is at stock speeds.


----------



## jmdulay

Would replacing the Define Mini stock fans with GT AP-15s improve airflow? I have 4 that I use as case fans and I have been eyeing the Define Mini as a candidate for my next case. I also plan on getting GTX670s in SLI.

My ambient temps reach 30c at times and I know the Arc Mini would be a better choice but I'm starting to like the Define Mini a lot more. Just looks so much sleeker.


----------



## Charlie--

Is anyone using any of these in their Arc Midi (or other FD case)?

I was thinking of replacing the (OEM) FD fans like so:

*Intake:*
Front: 2x NoiseBlocker Silent Pro 140mm - Either PK2 or PK3
Bottom or Side: not sure yet (would need to use a 120mm at bottom tho')

*Exhaust:*
Rear & Top: 3x NZXT 9 Blade Rifle Bearing Fan 1300 RPM 140mm - FN 140RB

The main aim is to run all these via a fan controller and/or under-volt them. So I am going to buy one of each to test but I would prefer to just get 2 to test so what would be better the PK2 or PK3?

Cheers


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Is anyone using any of these in their Arc Midi (or other FD case)?
> I was thinking of replacing the (OEM) FD fans like so:
> *Intake:*
> Front: 2x NoiseBlocker Silent Pro 140mm - Either PK2 or PK3
> Bottom or Side: not sure yet (would need to use a 120mm at bottom tho')
> *Exhaust:*
> Rear & Top: 3x NZXT 9 Blade Rifle Bearing Fan 1300 RPM 140mm - FN 140RB
> The main aim is to run all these via a fan controller and/or under-volt them. So I am going to buy one of each to test but I would prefer to just get 2 to test so what would be better the PK2 or PK3?
> Cheers


have tat nzxt 140 rb for top exhuast, actually most of the time ill just crank it to max using fc4 fancontroller, its quiet enough for me,
if its me ill just get the cheaper options available to me with higher rpm, since i can always lower the speed with the FC if its too noisy
and ram it up if i need more air flow(usually is benching/burn in test).


----------



## Charlie--

Cheers, I'm defo ordering 1 NZXT140RB to test - The Noiseblocker is only £2 more, I think with the NB PK3 the lowest RPM is ~700 at 4v whereas the PK2 is ~500 at 4v not sure if there would be much difference in sound at those speed, but the PK3 has a lot more head room, I would prefer the pk3 as intakes over the pk2 as long I can get that at a fairly low sound level under low loads.

What fans do you have at the front make/size/max rpm?

Cheers


----------



## jopy

Using 2x120 gentle typhoon 1850 rpm now
Previously was noise blocker xl2 1500 rpm.
not really much difference in performance maybe the most 1°
or 2° difference , but end up using the gentle typhoon cos the
fan blade is close to white color lol.


----------



## macarule

I am useing a PK2 and 3 in the front of mine, if I run them on low with a fan controller I get a weird humming sound (could be fan controller or just my case) but if I run them at full its fine, the PK3 pushes lots of air!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Is anyone using any of these in their Arc Midi (or other FD case)?
> I was thinking of replacing the (OEM) FD fans like so:
> *Intake:*
> Front: 2x NoiseBlocker Silent Pro 140mm - Either PK2 or PK3
> Bottom or Side: not sure yet (would need to use a 120mm at bottom tho')
> *Exhaust:*
> Rear & Top: 3x NZXT 9 Blade Rifle Bearing Fan 1300 RPM 140mm - FN 140RB
> The main aim is to run all these via a fan controller and/or under-volt them. So I am going to buy one of each to test but I would prefer to just get 2 to test so what would be better the PK2 or PK3?
> Cheers


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Is anyone using any of these in their Arc Midi (or other FD case)?
> I was thinking of replacing the (OEM) FD fans like so:
> *Intake:*
> Front: 2x NoiseBlocker Silent Pro 140mm - Either PK2 or PK3
> Bottom or Side: not sure yet (would need to use a 120mm at bottom tho')
> *Exhaust:*
> Rear & Top: 3x NZXT 9 Blade Rifle Bearing Fan 1300 RPM 140mm - FN 140RB
> The main aim is to run all these via a fan controller and/or under-volt them. So I am going to buy one of each to test but I would prefer to just get 2 to test so what would be better the PK2 or PK3?
> Cheers


I have two BlackSilentPro PLPS (PWM) 120mm as front intakes in my Arc Mini...and they are dead silent when running on this curve:



I imagine that when they get anywhere close to max, they would be lost in the noise of my CPU cooler and GPU fans.


----------



## macarule

Heres mine


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Heres mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice touch with the fan control pointed to the side, looks good.


----------



## Charlie--

Thanks @jopy, @macarule & @Scuba Steve in VA for the very handy info you all have posted.









@jopy - I really wish GT fans came in 140mm, with regards to fan colours you're as bad as me, LOL - I'm hoping that a strip of white LED's behind the front NB fans will make the fins seem white-ish as they are not a solid black so some light should get through

@macarule - Really like your rig, great braiding too (done the front panel cables on mine will post photos at w/end). I hope I don't get that fan humming noise, is the PK-3 at the top or bottom of the front panel?

@Scuba Steve in VA - Hopefully the NB PK's will be fine for me after seeing your chart and info and the PK-3 is not much louder than your PLPS. - Really nice rig you got there too.

Well I have on order one of each to test: NZXT FN 140RB, NB PK-2 & NB PK-3 they should be here on Thursday.


----------



## pokpok

I would appreciate if some1 saw or know if this heatsink can fit in a fractal core 1000 (PH-TC14PE 140mm).

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011

Fan Dimensions
140 x 140 x 25 mm, Dual Fans includes

Heatsink Dimensions
134 x 140 x 160 mm (without fan)
159 x 140 x 171 mm (with Dual Fans)

ty


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokpok*
> 
> I would appreciate if some1 saw or know if this heatsink can fit in a fractal core 1000 (PH-TC14PE 140mm).
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
> Fan Dimensions
> 140 x 140 x 25 mm, Dual Fans includes
> Heatsink Dimensions
> 134 x 140 x 160 mm (without fan)
> 159 x 140 x 171 mm (with Dual Fans)
> ty


Hi, The quick answer is no, sorry. As the Core 1000 only supports CPU coolers with height of 135mm. You might squeeze it in there with no fans, but you would be better of with a different cooler that can fit and use fans too.

*EDIT:*
@pokpok has pointed out to me that I have my info wrong. There is an article that shows you could get a 159mm cooler in the Core 1000, it's a very tight fit but has been done. - Sorry for any confusion.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @macarule - Really like your rig, great braiding too (done the front panel cables on mine will post photos at w/end). I hope I don't get that fan humming noise, is the PK-3 at the top or bottom of the front panel?


Thanks








it is at the top to get airflow through the case, i have a feeling its the fan and the case just magnifies it...


----------



## Blizlake

Been looking into getting a core1000 and pretty much the only problem now is cpu cooling. I've been looking at AXP-140, NH-L12 and Antec 620 and I'd appreciate suggestions/opinions. With noctua I'd get 2 fans, so that's obviously a bonus.
I'll be likely ordering from mindfactory.de, and price should be around the aforementioned coolers or lower.
Cheers


----------



## adridu59

I would go for the 620 to save space.


----------



## mironccr345

^^ what he said. the core 1K is a small case and if you dont have a modular psu, you going to need all the space you can.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is at the top to get airflow through the case, i have a feeling its the fan and the case just magnifies it...


Might be - I do seem to be having slight issues with different fans in the front and annoying sounds getting magnified (the FD OEM 2 of the 3 sounded bad outside the case tho'). I've notice that you have removed the filter on the front - did you have this humming issue before this? Are the exhaust fans you got there the NB multiframe ones?

*Edit:*
@Blizlake - The same as the other 2 said the Antec 620 for the Core 1000.
If you went for the Core 3000 you would have a bit more room and could go with either of the other 2 coolers.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Might be - I do seem to be having slight issues with different fans in the front and annoying sounds getting magnified (the FD OEM 2 of the 3 sounded bad outside the case tho'). I've notice that you have removed the filter on the front - did you have this humming issue before this? Are the exhaust fans you got there the NB multiframe ones?


nah i didnt but i didnt at first with it removed, but my FD one went a bit funny and i got a similar sound so i switched them out, but i got a similar sound, i think its the fan because it shakes and hums a little outside the case








yeah they are Multiframes


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> If you went for the Core 3000 you would have a bit more room and could go with either of the other 2 coolers.


Yep the 3000 is a great case, just a bit tight for cable management spacing.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Yep the 3000 is a great case, just a bit tight for cable management spacing.


Yes a very nice case, could get a bit tight on cable management. I nearly got that case but decided to give myself a bit more room & I was able to get the Arc Midi for just less than £50 as I had an Amazon voucher









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> nah i didnt but i didnt at first with it removed, but my FD one went a bit funny and i got a similar sound so i switched them out, but i got a similar sound, i think its the fan because it shakes and hums a little outside the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah they are Multiframes


Well I will test tomorrow - I did read (on this forum, I think) that someone said the NB PK fans sounded better without the rubber surrounds on them. *Edit:* Try putting a Zalman RC56 (7V) Noiseless Resistor Cable on one of the Pk's to test to see if the hum goes away.


----------



## Blizlake

Cheers for your imput adridu59, mironccr345 and Charlie--, Rep+ given








I was actually leaning towards the 620 after thinking about it, but I'd probably have to change the fan to a X-silent or something... Cheers


----------



## AbdullahG

I'm thinking about windowing the side panel on my Core 1000 just for the fun of it. I'll most likely get it done a month from now when the garage gets a workshop makeover.


----------



## stainlineho

Do any Midi owners have side panels that are a SOB to take off?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stainlineho*
> 
> Do any Midi owners have side panels that are a SOB to take off?


my mini can be really hard to take off at times, other times is goes right on.... never really been sure why.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stainlineho*
> 
> Do any Midi owners have side panels that are a SOB to take off?


I do but I put that down to my case being only a few weeks old, I'm ok with it as I want to to stay put when it's in place - Just a bit of hassle as I keep moding all the time, so have both sides of at the mo' for ease.

*Side note:* @Everyone,
I know its be mentioned on this thread about the FD Adjust 108 fan controller, but I just got an email reply from FD, saying it will be available in the UK in 6-8 weeks with a price of £20-25. I really like the simplicity of it and that is controls 6 individual fans. However I like this one too BitFenix Recon I like that it can do a lot more and is available now in the UK for £28.99 to pre-order for delivery in a week or so, but it only controls 5 fans and it has the soft rubber front.


----------



## AbdullahG

I'm hoping FD will release a mesh fan controller.


----------



## Sil

Mine..


----------



## tambok2012

THIS is the fractal design core 1000 modded...

can anyone try this mod im not sure it will dent the side panel on the left when putting the wires of the PSU.....









http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg809/scaled.php?server=809&filename=img9912b.jpg&res=medium

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg825/scaled.php?server=825&filename=gedc0896.jpg&res=medium

maybe only a generic psu will survive at that cable management mod ..

or maybe sleeved modular PSU..


----------



## pokpok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Hi, The quick answer is no, sorry. As the Core 1000 only supports CPU coolers with height of 135mm. You might squeeze it in there with no fans, but you would be better of with a different cooler that can fit and use fans too.


135 of height seem a bit exaggerated, on this article they say that they fit a 159 and it is touching the panel so i was thinking about 150-155 heatsink or something.

http://www.anandtech.com/Show/Index/5736?cPage=5&all=False&sort=0&page=3&slug=fractal-design-core-1000-how-little-is-too-little
(6th paragraph)
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is by no means an extravagant cooler or even one of the largest ones on the market, but its 159mm height caused the tops of the heatpipes to press against the side panel, bowing it outward a little. I was still able to secure the panel.

the Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme seem like a winner for me dont like the noctua color


----------



## airdeano

T-minus 5-working days until touchdown. weather is good, T12 afterburn sequence is go...

airdeano


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokpok*
> 
> ...the Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme seem like a winner for me dont like the noctua color


Regarding the Core 1000, what's wrong with Noctua heatsinks*?*


----------



## pokpok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Regarding the Core 1000, what's wrong with Noctua heatsinks*?*


Nothing i just said i don't like the color (personal preference)


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokpok*
> 
> Nothing i just said i don't like the color (personal preference)


_Simple solution.._.Buy different fans & sell the Noctua fans


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokpok*
> 
> 135 of height seem a bit exaggerated, on this article they say that they fit a 159 and it is touching the panel so i was thinking about 150-155 heatsink or something.
> http://www.anandtech.com/Show/Index/5736?cPage=5&all=False&sort=0&page=3&slug=fractal-design-core-1000-how-little-is-too-little
> (6th paragraph)
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is by no means an extravagant cooler or even one of the largest ones on the market, but its 159mm height caused the tops of the heatpipes to press against the side panel, bowing it outward a little. I was still able to secure the panel.
> the Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme seem like a winner for me dont like the noctua color


Oopps looks like I got it wrong, sorry everyone, I just got the info from the FD website. Thanks for pointing that out, I will edit my other post.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> THIS is the fractal design core 1000 modded...
> 
> can anyone try this mod im not sure it will dent the side panel on the left when putting the wires of the PSU.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg809/scaled.php?server=809&filename=img9912b.jpg&res=medium
> 
> http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg825/scaled.php?server=825&filename=gedc0896.jpg&res=medium
> 
> maybe only a generic psu will survive at that cable management mod ..
> 
> or maybe sleeved modular PSU..


That's a pretty good mod, but if you check out my build log in my signature, you will see that some higher-end mATX boards take up the entire motherboard tray area.


----------



## tambok2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That's a pretty good mod, but if you check out my build log in my signature, you will see that some higher-end mATX boards take up the entire motherboard tray area.


what if you cut small piece of metal from the tray and run it under the tray..


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> That's a pretty good mod, but if you check out my build log in my signature, you will see that some higher-end mATX boards take up the entire motherboard tray area.
> 
> 
> 
> what if you cut small piece of metal from the tray and run it under the tray..
Click to expand...

Where are you referring to?


----------



## tambok2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Where are you referring to?


the red ones are to be cut for maybe extra space for wires IDK...

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn252/kenneth1020/img9913p.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn252/kenneth1020/aw-1.jpg

but for me it really cant have cable management with a PSU that has long many cables...


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Where are you referring to?
> 
> 
> 
> the red ones are to be cut for maybe extra space for wires IDK...
> 
> http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn252/kenneth1020/img9913p.jpg
> 
> http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn252/kenneth1020/aw-1.jpg
> 
> but for me it really cant have cable management with a PSU that has long many cables...
Click to expand...

Yeah, with a full-size mATX board, you would definitely have to cut out the little rounded lip in those locations.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Thanks @jopy, @macarule & @Scuba Steve in VA for the very handy info you all have posted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Scuba Steve in VA - Hopefully the NB PK's will be fine for me after seeing your chart and info and the PK-3 is not much louder than your PLPS. - Really nice rig you got there too.
> Well I have on order one of each to test: NZXT FN 140RB, NB PK-2 & NB PK-3 they should be here on Thursday.


Thanks.







My goal was to keep it quiet since it is on 24/7...and I am pretty pleased thus far. The only time that I hear fans ramp up is when I fire up Call of Duty.







Even then, what I am really hearing are the CPU and GPU fans. You should be very happy with the NBs. They are not inexpensive, but they are very quiet.


----------



## Charlie--

@Scuba Steve - Well I got the NB PK-2, PK-3 & NZXT FN 140RB today & been testing them - Simple desk test and case test. So far the NB's are WOW







Both very good in their own way and even the 1700rpm one is not that loud for me at full pelt (good for a COD session) and it don't half move some air. The Pk-2 is very quite at full and the NZXT is a bit louder at full rpm, but I could run them at full most of the time without any issue - The PK-3 does need to be tamed for when I want quite & don't need the cooling.

My plan, one of many & subject to more testing is to have 2x Pk-3's at the front and 3x NZXT's at the top/rear - All of this might be over kill but I have the fan cooling bug now and it's fun


----------



## carmas

I have just received some noiseblockers too, 3 Pk-2 and 3 Pl-2, and they sound really quiet. Hopefully on the weekend I can move my rig to the Arc Midi and mount all this fan goodie...


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> I have just received some noiseblockers too, 3 Pk-2 and 3 Pl-2, and they sound really quiet. Hopefully on the weekend I can move my rig to the Arc Midi and mount all this fan goodie...


Nice one







- What configuration are you going to set the fans up in and control them? Have fun with the transfer of your rig into the Arc, please post a photo of it set-up if you can.


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Heres mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow nice, that sleeving looks awesome. This case has to be one of the best looking cases in general. Then the watercooling and sleeving just top it off. I'm not an owner but this is now on my must have list!!!

(oh yeah I followed Kaneda into this thread as I saw his post in the XSPC watercool club)


----------



## Futzy

Did my first build since 2001 in an R3









Probably going to pick up a fan to put on the side panel. The thing runs absolutely silent with all the fans around 800rpm and the 670 at 50%, even with the panels off.


----------



## evil jerry

that looks awesome futzy. Some high end parts and one of my favorite air coolers.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Nice one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - What configuration are you going to set the fans up in and control them? Have fun with the transfer of your rig into the Arc, please post a photo of it set-up if you can.


Thank you, I will definitely post a photo of my setup.









I think I will mount the fans like this:
2 Pk-2 front, intake
1 Pk-2 side or bottom, intake
2 Pl-2 top, exhaust
1 Pl-2 back, exhaust.

The fans will be controlled by a Lamptron FC5V2. However I haven't decided how to replace the stock fan filters yet.
I have also got an ax 650, and I plan on sleeving it in the next couple of weeks, I will probably order the tools and sleeving tomorrow. Depending on the color combination I will choose, I will also have to paint the white mounting brackets inside the case.

I am also thinking of going water in the near future and I am already thinking about possible mods for it.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> I think I will mount the fans like this:
> 2 Pk-2 front, intake
> 1 Pk-2 side or bottom, intake
> 2 Pl-2 top, exhaust
> 1 Pl-2 back, exhaust.


I'd ditch the frontmost top exhaust if I were you, it's pretty pointless as air will exit the case before it even touches anything. And 3x intake vs. 2x exhaust would give you nice positive pressure too.


----------



## carmas

Thank you for the advice, I will keep it in mind. I might consider adding the other top fan when/if I add a radiator.


----------



## Kaneda13

IF anyone is interested, i got an email last night form evga that the GTX470 blackplates (the ones that work as a heatsink, not just cosmetic) are back in stock. i ordered one, and i'll be replacing my EK blackplate with one of these.

*EDIT:* WOOT, 500 posts.


----------



## macarule

Cheers







should have blue tubing soon...







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> Wow nice, that sleeving looks awesome. This case has to be one of the best looking cases in general. Then the watercooling and sleeving just top it off. I'm not an owner but this is now on my must have list!!!
> (oh yeah I followed Kaneda into this thread as I saw his post in the XSPC watercool club)


----------



## evil jerry

Your welcome, I meant every word.


----------



## stainlineho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Heres mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wow nice, that sleeving looks awesome. This case has to be one of the best looking cases in general. Then the watercooling and sleeving just top it off. I'm not an owner but this is now on my must have list!!!
> 
> (oh yeah I followed Kaneda into this thread as I saw his post in the XSPC watercool club)
Click to expand...

I got one for you about 2 weeks old. Give you a great deal and local!


----------



## evil jerry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stainlineho*
> 
> I got one for you about 2 weeks old. Give you a great deal and local!


oh yes definitely, I've seen you around the forums. I never realized your from GA


----------



## Charlie--

Here are some photos of a little mod I did a few weeks back to the Arc Midi front panel cables - This is the first time I have braided cables and I am pleased with the results, they do look better than the photos show.




Spoiler: Photo 2









Spoiler: Photo 3







P.S. I also did the cables for the FD fan controller too, the only one that I did not do was the USB3.


----------



## jopy

@Charlie-- very nice, makes me want to sleeves my other connectors cable too







stop giving me ideas LOLOL

just sleeved my fans removed one hdd, so much easier to do the cable management now


----------



## Charlie--

@jopy - Those fan cables do look miles better sleeved, nice job







. As for the panel cables it was not too hard as the whole front panel comes out on the Arc, I think it does with the R3. I did want to individual sleeve all the cables but did not have enough braid. The USB3 came in black with a blue plug (instead of all blue) and looks ok but I can not see a way to sleeve it and it's sealed at both ends.

Still testing & messing around with fans, think I am going to go with this setup. (in green is decided)

*Intake:*
Front 2x NB PK-3
Bottom 1x NB PL2 or Side 1x NB PK-2

*Exhaust:*
Rear 1x NB PK-3
Top/Rear 1x NB PK-3
Top/Front NB PK-2 (on 5v) or PK-3 (on 5V)

Almost all the fans will be controlled via a 4-5 channel FC and I am aiming for a slightly positive air flow, what do people think of this plan?

*P.S. - TIP:* If you use a side fan on the Arc case it does sound like a mini lawn strimmer with all the fans I have tested so far, however I have found that when I placed a Demciflex 200mm filter on the side it quietened down the sound a lot & it does decrease airflow a bit. I found that the NB's hardly lost any air flow compared to the other fans and that the slower PK-2 preformed better than the PK-3 in that position at full pelt.


----------



## carmas

Thank you for the tip. I was looking at those Demciflex filters to use them together with my PK-2s. Do you think it would work fine also for the front intake, instead of the standard foam that comes with the Arc Midi?


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Thank you for the tip. I was looking at those Demciflex filters to use them together with my PK-2s. Do you think it would work fine also for the front intake, instead of the standard foam that comes with the Arc Midi?


Maybe, the front foam does seem thick and the Demciflex might be give better airflow (expensive mod tho'), and without testing I could not be sure. I'm not planning to remove any of the stock filters, yet anyway and was lucky to get that filter for £6 on Amazon rather than the current £15 price tag.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @jopy - Those fan cables do look miles better sleeved, nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . As for the panel cables it was not too hard as the whole front panel comes out on the Arc, I think it does with the R3. I did want to individual sleeve all the cables but did not have enough braid. The USB3 came in black with a blue plug (instead of all blue) and looks ok but I can not see a way to sleeve it and it's sealed at both ends.
> Still testing & messing around with fans, think I am going to go with this setup. (in green is decided)
> *Intake:*
> Front 2x NB PK-3
> Bottom 1x NB PL2 or Side 1x NB PK-2
> *Exhaust:*
> Rear 1x NB PK-3
> Top/Rear 1x NB PK-3
> Top/Front NB PK-2 (on 5v) or PK-3 (on 5V)
> Almost all the fans will be controlled via a 4-5 channel FC and I am aiming for a slightly positive air flow, what do people think of this plan?
> *P.S. - TIP:* If you use a side fan on the Arc case it does sound like a mini lawn strimmer with all the fans I have tested so far, however I have found that when I placed a Demciflex 200mm filter on the side it quietened down the sound a lot & it does decrease airflow a bit. I found that the NB's hardly lost any air flow compared to the other fans and that the slower PK-2 preformed better than the PK-3 in that position at full pelt.


they did a test on r3 of fan placement, u can use this as a reference for arc midi , its pretty similar in some sense.
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1


----------



## chris ofc

Hey everyone,

My first casemod.. on a Fractal design core 3000,
I wanna know what you guys think









(Sorry for bad pics)


----------



## Blizlake

Looks great, but the lower part of the window reminds me of an Alienware pc...


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris ofc*
> 
> (Sorry for bad pics)


Kinda difficult to give you much of an appraisal.......being that the photos are "bad"

Beg~Borrow-~Steal a "big boys" camera and let us see....what it really looks like.


----------



## chris ofc

ah yes.. i took a hammer to an alienware aurora case


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris ofc*
> 
> ah yes.. i took a hammer to an alienware aurora case


Only thing Alienware is good for









Btw, I'll be likely joining the club soon with a Core 1000! Will be buying a new rig at some point next week







("Soon..." @sig) Cheers to Axipher for help


----------



## adridu59

Who said Fractal cases were sober...


----------



## chris ofc

Oke..

I got a bit better pictures (phone)





Greetings,

Chris


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris ofc*
> 
> Oke..
> I got a bit better pictures (phone)
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> Chris





That's a nice side panel mod. Nice job.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris ofc*
> 
> Oke..
> I got a bit better pictures (phone)
> 
> Greetings,
> Chris


Looks very nice, do you have the build logs or more photo, very intriguing would love to find out more


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> they did a test on r3 of fan placement, u can use this as a reference for arc midi , its pretty similar in some sense


wow, some of the fan configs really suprised the outcome in effective cooling. i'm
gunna have to do some tests on my midi for verification. the front is so much more
open than the R3 there should be a difference in air flow-paths. but for R3 owners
a great read and data..

airdeano


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris ofc*
> 
> Oke..
> I got a bit better pictures (phone)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greetings,
> Chris


Great side mod & really like the blue lights









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> wow, some of the fan configs really suprised the outcome in effective cooling. i'm
> gunna have to do some tests on my midi for verification. the front is so much more
> open than the R3 there should be a difference in air flow-paths. but for R3 owners
> a great read and data..
> airdeano


They did the test on the R3 with the front panel door open, but I guess that with it closed it might make temps a bit higher. Also I would have liked to see that test done with some higher CFM fans (ie. 65+ CFM) as the FD fans are ok and push a fair amount of air its only a ~39 CFM fan.
*
EDIT:* P.S @jopy - Thanks for the link to the bit-tech article on fan placement, it was very useful







+rep


----------



## Vinnce

I finally got time to fix my cable management problems, spent a lot of time on saturday doing so, here is a pic of the two cases.

The Antec 900 on left and FRACTAL midi on the right.


Here is the totally epic mess I was running my computer in, notice the corsair H100 mounted to the front, you can see the fans in the first picture.


It's the second time I build a computer and this is what I've ended up with.

(Thanks to http://metatoile.com/ for the awesome pic hosting service)

I am now running this ARC midi with a total of 8 case fans, 2 of the 140mm fractal fans(intake), 2 noctua NF-P14FLX 140mm(1 intake-1 push) & 4 cougar vortex 120mm on my CPU cooler(pushing)


----------



## ishy3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stainlineho*
> 
> Do any Midi owners have side panels that are a SOB to take off?


mine are a bit stiff but just because its new i think,still come off with one hand tho.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ishy3*
> 
> mine are a bit stiff but just because its new i think,still come off with one hand tho.


you can adjust the panel latches on the top, bottom and lead edge for ease of slide and
alignment. the tighter the gaps, the harder the removal. but there is a line of both.
take a straight screwdriver and open or close the panel hooks on the top and bottom
of the panel. opening them makes it easier to remove, but can be prone to vibrate.

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vinnce*
> 
> I finally got time to fix my cable management problems, spent a lot of time on saturday doing so, here is a pic of the two cases.
> The Antec 900 ....notice the corsair H100 mounted to the front, you can see the fans in the first picture.


tbh.. uhh no.. i see the pump and maybe a hose... j/k

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> They did the test on the R3 with the front panel door open, but I guess that with it closed it might make temps a bit higher. Also I would have liked to see that test done with some higher CFM fans (ie. 65+ CFM) as the FD fans are ok and push a fair amount of air its only a ~39 CFM fan.


you know some cases did have the 140mm R2 fan in them, right?
they did not disclose the fan type. but yes, if they were 38cfm.. the 65cfm would have
been alot better..

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

well gang, it looks like my Midi came home.. i got a notice about an adult signature (yeah right)
from NCIX for two boxes.. and that means its MIDI time! snaps for tomorrow..

airdeano


----------



## peterbazooka

Anyone seen these?

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5922/fractal-designs-node-series-htpc-chassis-at-computex-2012

Mini-itx and micro-atx htpc cases. I'm just sad to see there are no places for a blu-ray drive on either of them.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterbazooka*
> 
> Anyone seen these?
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/5922/fractal-designs-node-series-htpc-chassis-at-computex-2012
> Mini-itx and micro-atx htpc cases. I'm just sad to see there are no places for a blu-ray drive on either of them.


wooooow these look great!
I actually have not seen these before.
I can imagine the big one for a new HTPC or for Homeserver use
I think we will see many builds in these in the future















Thanks for the advertise peterbazooka.


----------



## Futzy

Checked up on newegg and noticed that all the R3s are gone, they coming out with a new design?

My R3 is actually quieter with its side panels off, is the padding just supposed to reduce echoing/amplification?


----------



## Charlie--

Anyone used a Lian Li bezel kit (see photo below) in the Arc Mini/Midi to try and hide a DVD drive?



Spoiler: Bezel Kit







Or I'm thinking of trimming the existing Arc blanking plate, mount the DVD drive back a bit and then stick it on the DVD draw. Saying that I don't use it that much, only for old games & data - Might turn it into an external DVD drive instead.


----------



## archedperson

I'm thinking of building a rig for browsing/1080p movies with ASUS F1A55-M LX Plus mATX AMD and AMD A6-3500 APU. I have a NH-D14 lying around and thinking about buying the Fractal Design Core 1000 Micro ATX case and I see the width of the case is 6.89" (175mm) does that means I can fit the Noctua NH-D14 which is 160 mm in height with the fan? I've been googling all day and couldn't find any solid info. Please help!
I might have to go with Bitfenix Merc Beta which is on sale at my local computer store for 35$! I know it fits NH-D14 but as an ATX/mATX case it will be a tight fit under my table. I really want to the Core1000 though.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peterbazooka*
> 
> Anyone seen these?
> http://www.anandtech.com/show/5922/fractal-designs-node-series-htpc-chassis-at-computex-2012
> Mini-itx and micro-atx htpc cases. I'm just sad to see there are no places for a blu-ray drive on either of them.


god! just feel like getting one to build a htpc lolol looks so awesome,


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *archedperson*
> 
> I'm thinking of building a rig for browsing/1080p movies with ASUS F1A55-M LX Plus mATX AMD and AMD A6-3500 APU. I have a NH-D14 lying around and thinking about buying the Fractal Design Core 1000 Micro ATX case and I see the width of the case is 6.89" (175mm) does that means I can fit the Noctua NH-D14 which is 160 mm in height with the fan? I've been googling all day and couldn't find any solid info. Please help!
> I might have to go with Bitfenix Merc Beta which is on sale at my local computer store for 35$! I know it fits NH-D14 but as an ATX/mATX case it will be a tight fit under my table. I really want to the Core1000 though.


Unfortunately no, it wont fit. Fractal states that the max cooler height is 130mm, but it's probably more like 140mm since 110mm topflow cooler with 25mm fan fit there at work. I should receive mine tomorrow (thursday latest), I can measure it for ya.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *archedperson*
> 
> I'm thinking of building a rig for browsing/1080p movies with ASUS F1A55-M LX Plus mATX AMD and AMD A6-3500 APU. I have a NH-D14 lying around and thinking about buying the Fractal Design Core 1000 Micro ATX case and I see the width of the case is 6.89" (175mm) does that means I can fit the Noctua NH-D14 which is 160 mm in height with the fan? I've been googling all day and couldn't find any solid info. Please help!
> I might have to go with Bitfenix Merc Beta which is on sale at my local computer store for 35$! I know it fits NH-D14 but as an ATX/mATX case it will be a tight fit under my table. I really want to the Core1000 though.


This has been discussed a few pages back and I like @Blizlake both thought that the max high is 130mm in a Core 1000 but another member posted an article that states that a 159mm cooler can fit in the Core 1000 but the top touches the side panel.

*UPDATE: From page 270 - Posted by @pokpok*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokpok*
> 
> 135 of height seem a bit exaggerated, on this article they say that they fit a 159 and it is touching the panel so i was thinking about 150-155 heatsink or something.
> http://www.anandtech.com/Show/Index/5736?cPage=5&all=False&sort=0&page=3&slug=fractal-design-core-1000-how-little-is-too-little
> (6th paragraph)
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is by no means an extravagant cooler or even one of the largest ones on the market, but its 159mm height caused the tops of the heatpipes to press against the side panel, bowing it outward a little. I was still able to secure the panel.
> the Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme seem like a winner for me dont like the noctua color


----------



## adi518

Anyone has a usb3 hdd?

I recently borrowed a usb3 Passport drive from a friend and did some testing with crystal disk mark and I found out the following:

in the rear usb3 port I get around 84mb/s for both read and write.

from the front however, I get around half that figure, more around 40mb/s for read and 35mb/s for write.

So I'm trying to understand why......I asked in another forum and someone said Fractal isn't supplying a quality enough usb3 cable, unlike Corsair for example.

I'm just wondering if there's truth to all of this.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vinnce*
> 
> I finally got time to fix my cable management problems, spent a lot of time on saturday doing so, here is a pic of the two cases.
> The Antec 900 on left and FRACTAL midi on the right.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the totally epic mess I was running my computer in, notice the corsair H100 mounted to the front, you can see the fans in the first picture.
> 
> It's the second time I build a computer and this is what I've ended up with.
> 
> 
> 
> (Thanks to http://metatoile.com/ for the awesome pic hosting service)
> I am now running this ARC midi with a total of 8 case fans, 2 of the 140mm fractal fans(intake), 2 noctua NF-P14FLX 140mm(1 intake-1 push) & 4 cougar vortex 120mm on my CPU cooler(pushing)


as funny as it may sound, putting the sound card above the gpu is kinda taking away from the looks.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> So I'm trying to understand why......I asked in another forum and someone said Fractal isn't supplying a quality enough usb3 cable, unlike Corsair for example.


Not sure but maybe shielding would affect...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> as funny as it may sound, putting the sound card above the gpu is kinda taking away from the looks.


It's a network card.


----------



## DoctorWorm

Does anybody think there might be a new Define R4 case coming out soon this year? I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a Fractal Design Define R3, but I'm noticing that many stores are sold out, and it's even deactivated on Newegg. Seeing that the R2 came out in the first half of 2010, and the R3 came out in the first half of 2011, could there be a new R4 coming out?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoctorWorm*
> 
> Does anybody think there might be a new Define R4 case coming out soon this year?


YES... this year. soon?

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

its here! signed, sealed and delivered... the Midi has arrived.



field dressed all the tape from the box....



field dressed the chassis already.

tomorrow - HARDWARE! all stock:

intel i5-2550k
gigabyte z68-ud4 (may change to evga p67sli)
2 x4gb g skill sniper
nVidia GTS 450
kingston 64gb vnow ssd
corsair hx650
build it simple and markup mods..

airdeano


----------



## axipher

I *might* be planning to stick a custom loop in my Core 1000 this weekend, might need some tips and tricks on fitting a 240 mm RAD in the front, anyone have some advice?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I *might* be planning to stick a custom loop in my Core 1000 this weekend, might need some tips and tricks on fitting a 240 mm RAD in the front, anyone have some advice?


I haven't gotten a chance to unbox my Core1000 yet, but zipties are always handy


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I *might* be planning to stick a custom loop in my Core 1000 this weekend, might need some tips and tricks on fitting a 240 mm RAD in the front, anyone have some advice?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't gotten a chance to unbox my Core1000 yet, but zipties are always handy
Click to expand...

No zip-ties, those are for cable management only.

I have ideas on how to mount it, just trying to figure out the best way to cut the bottom of the 5.25" bay area so it will fit.


----------



## mironccr345

Your hack saw will work, but it will take a while. Might even scratch up your powder coat if you dont use a lot of masking tape. Maybe borrow a dremel? I'd let you borrow mine...But we're in different countries.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Your hack saw will work, but it will take a while. Might even scratch up your powder coat if you dont use a lot of masking tape. Maybe borrow a dremel? I'd let you borrow mine...But we're in different countries.


Yeah, I might just talk to my supervisor at work, see if I can borrow one from the maintenance shop at work.


----------



## AbdullahG

Getting a new dust filter from FD in a week or so. For those who have cut into it to show the fan, how did you cut the filter? I just cannot get a circle out of it...


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Getting a new dust filter from FD in a week or so. For those who have cut into it to show the fan, how did you cut the filter? I just cannot get a circle out of it...


I just removed my filter and replaced with the a piece of cardboard, but if you want to cut the filter to the right size, use a CD, it's about as close as your going to get without being exact (it's what i used to cut the cardboard in mine).


----------



## DoctorWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DoctorWorm*
> 
> ...the R2 came out in the first half of 2010, and the R3 came out in the first half of 2011...


Never mind, I'm wrong about the history. According to time-based Google Searching: The original "Design" came out in 2008, the R2 in '09, and the R3 with the original eSATA in 2010.
So I'm probably wrong about an R4 coming out in the near future, especially with the fact that there have been no rumors. Still, how come the R3's are out of stock everywhere? Amazon's completely out of stock, Newegg only has the silver, and NCIX and Microcenter are out. Products wouldn't get deactivated on Newegg if they just sold out from popularity.


----------



## airdeano

and newegg states the units out odf stock are:
Deactivated. This item is currently out of stock and it may or may not be restocked.

they are purposly running stock out.... HINT!!!
you dont deactivate selling inventory unless something else is going to replace it
thats loosing business.. if you check the reviews of the R3 they are 4.5+.
there has been a buzz on R3 for 4months... R4 is coming... CompuTex 2012 is now.

airdeano


----------



## macarule

Changed out my clouded tubing and added new lighting








soon a custom acrylic panel


----------



## tambok2012

I found this on google

https://7fieyw.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pj7OHzmfOk5rLbNpChDYEFY6ByhyTnE4ywo7vEzTzsa6jo88irgv9l3sEAIFF4v6G5A8_lL1IgY-rKmIfBR4rEA/IMG_0061.JPG?psid=1


----------



## carmas

I'm in the club








Here are some low quality pics. However it is a very preliminary stage, I will now sleeve and tidy up the cables, and then go for some light modding and minor painting. I also have to decide how to replace the stock fan filters. The final step will be going for watercooling.

some goodies



Lamptron FC-5v2


----------



## macarule

How do you find the NoiseBlocker PKs at the front? mine make a low humming noise when undervolted


----------



## carmas

I am very happy with these Noiseblocker fans. Honestly I didn't notice ant humming noise when undervolting, but my hearing might not be so sensitive.


----------



## macarule

maybe i just have sensitive hearing








switched out my tubing







and new lighting


----------



## Charlie--

@carmas - Nice one so far







Will be great to see it with the cables sorted more. I see you had to mount the bolts for the top/back fan the opposite way round like I did otherwise the top panel will not fit on. I was thinking of getting the Lamptron FC5V2 FC - How you finding it, does it work well with the NB's? I.e No whining on low volts etc?

@macarule - I now have 4x NB PK-3's 1x PK-2 & 1x PL-2 - A mate is giving me a Sycthe Kaze Q FC to use for a bit tomorrow, I will test for humming with that one. Your NB's at the front are they each on a separate channel? Also a tip from @jopy make sure the HDD's cadges are not screwed down too tight.

P.S - Really like the new tubing colour


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @macarule - I now have 4x NB PK-3's 1x PK-2 & 1x PL-2 - A mate is giving me a Sycthe Kaze Q FC to use for a bit tomorrow, I will test for humming with that one. Your NB's at the front are they each on a separate channel? Also a tip from @jopy make sure the HDD's cadges are not screwed down too tight.
> P.S - Really like the new tubing colour


they are both on the same channel maybe that's the problem?









And thanks, i really like it too, so much better than the clouded PVC








the PCIE sleeved extensions should be arriving in the next few days...


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> they are both on the same channel maybe that's the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And thanks, i really like it too, so much better than the clouded PVC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the PCIE sleeved extensions should be arriving in the next few days...


I would test with only one on 1 channel - If I remember right you have 2 different spec' fans at the front on 1 channel a PK-2 and PK-3 this may be the cause of the humming issue with your fan.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @carmas - Nice one so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be great to see it with the cables sorted more. I see you had to mount the bolts for the top/back fan the opposite way round like I did otherwise the top panel will not fit on. I was thinking of getting the Lamptron FC5V2 FC - How you finding it, does it work well with the NB's? I.e No whining on low volts etc?


Yes, I will sort everything. Unfortunately in this period I have a lot of work to do, so this was a quick installation. And yes, I had to mount the top bolts the other way round, otherwise the top panel would not fit. However, I am thinking of cutting the top panel to mount a radiator later this year.

I like FC-5v2 a lot. It works quite well with the NB fans, however now I am using only one fan per channel. I will change this as soon as I fabricate and sleeve a fan splitter cable. MAybe this is also the reason why I didn't notice any humming. Although I still thin it could be my hearing


----------



## Blizlake

Got my Core 1000 and all the hardware except my HDD, CPU cooler and a few fans.









Now, everything is golden apart from one thing. One of the 3 thumbscrews used to fix the HDD cage/plate is stuck. Stuck as in it won't come off and it won't tighten. The threads are probably busted, so anyone got any idea on how to get the screw off? Would be much appreciated


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Got my Core 1000 and all the hardware except my HDD, CPU cooler and a few fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, everything is golden apart from one thing. One of the 3 thumbscrews used to fix the HDD cage/plate is stuck. Stuck as in it won't come off and it won't tighten. The threads are probably busted, so anyone got any idea on how to get the screw off? Would be much appreciated












Sexy build coming our way









As for the thumbscrew, have you tried using a Philips screw-driver on it? If so, then your next best attempt would be grabbing some pliers and trying to twist the screw out with those.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sexy build coming our way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the thumbscrew, have you tried using a Philips screw-driver on it? If so, then your next best attempt would be grabbing some pliers and trying to twist the screw out with those.


lol cheers








I had to use a screwdriver on all of the thumbscrews 'cause they were so tight. Everything went smooth until the very last one








I've got pliers somewhere, maybe I'll twist and pull with those for a while. If the screw won't come off, I think I'll just grab an angle grinder and take half of the case off with it









_edit: Pliers = no good. Think I'll just nuke it off. I'll probably call my pops first since he's a wizard in all things difficult._

_edit2: Biggers pliers = very good. Looks like I was right, the threads on the thumbscrew were totally busted._


----------



## DoctorWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> and newegg states the units out odf stock are:
> Deactivated. This item is currently out of stock and it may or may not be restocked.
> they are purposly running stock out.... HINT!!!
> you dont deactivate selling inventory unless something else is going to replace it
> thats loosing business.. if you check the reviews of the R3 they are 4.5+.
> there has been a buzz on R3 for 4months... R4 is coming... CompuTex 2012 is now.
> airdeano


So you think it'll be out before the end of Computex?


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Got my Core 1000 and all the hardware except my HDD, CPU cooler and a few fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, everything is golden apart from one thing. One of the 3 thumbscrews used to fix the HDD cage/plate is stuck. Stuck as in it won't come off and it won't tighten. The threads are probably busted, so anyone got any idea on how to get the screw off? Would be much appreciated


Nice one, I can not wait to see the photos of your rig built


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Got my Core 1000 and all the hardware except my HDD, CPU cooler and a few fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, everything is golden apart from one thing. One of the 3 thumbscrews used to fix the HDD cage/plate is stuck. Stuck as in it won't come off and it won't tighten. The threads are probably busted, so anyone got any idea on how to get the screw off? Would be much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice one, I can not wait to see the photos of your rig buil*d-log*
Click to expand...

I want pictures of every step


----------



## Skrumzy

So I have had my rig up for about 3 weeks now and just never got around to posting the build log but I'll post one of the pics to clarify that I am in midi heaven











Quick question, how do you change your avatar picture for your rig? It defaulted to a picture of my rad and I would rather have the midi case displayed =p


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I want pictures of every step


+1 on that


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I want pictures of every step
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 on that
Click to expand...

Cheers guys.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1267169/build-log-its-either-beer-or-this-core-1000-ivy-bridge-7870


----------



## Skrumzy

Can anybody help a n00b out with the signature for this club? I have tried to copy and paste it but the syntax is either wrong or I'm not applying it correctly.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> and newegg states the units out odf stock are:
> Deactivated. This item is currently out of stock and it may or may not be restocked.
> they are purposly running stock out.... HINT!!!
> *you dont deactivate selling inventory unless something else is going to replace it*
> thats loosing business.. if you check the reviews of the R3 they are 4.5+.
> there has been a buzz on R3 for 4months... R4 is coming... CompuTex 2012 is now.
> airdeano


NewEgg deactivates products frequently when they are out of stock. They deactivated the Arc Mini earlier this year...and since it was out of stock everywhere else as well, I pinged Fractal to see if it had been discontinued. They responded by stating that demand was higher than expected and more were shipping soon. Sure enough, two weeks later it was active on NewEgg again.

The R3 is certainly due for a refresh, but I wouldn't read too much into its NewEgg status.


----------



## airdeano

okie-dokie.. ive gotten auto notifies.. but this one and most all the colors are deactivated.. with no notify to order from.
NP

airdeano


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Can anybody help a n00b out with the signature for this club? I have tried to copy and paste it but the syntax is either wrong or I'm not applying it correctly.


check you PM's


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Quick question, how do you change your avatar picture for your rig? It defaulted to a picture of my rad and I would rather have the midi case displayed =p


Go to your rig page, click the picture you want and click "Make it default".


----------



## alex-fitton

Got myself a Fractal Arc Midi Tower.

So much better than my previous cases for cable management and quality.

Bought from Aria PC in Manchester, UK.

My previous cases were: Xigmatek and a cooler master but forgot models


----------



## axipher

Major update to my Design Core 1000 Build log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000-custom-wc-underway/350_50#post_17435831



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cls33

I'm sure this has been covered previously, but this thread is massive and I was unable to find anything with search!

I'm having some cooling issues with my Arc Mini. The main heat generating components in my machine are an Intel i5-2500k overclocked to 4.6ghz running on an Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z/Gen3 motherboard with a Hyper 212+ cooler and I'm running an Asus DCII GTX 670 Top for a video card.

For cooling, I'm using the 3 Fractal fans that were supplied with the case, 2 of them are running as intakes on the front and one is running as exhaust out the top of the case on the rear mount (behind the CPU)

My CPU and ambient temps are pretty good, but my GPU temps are *horrible*. My GPU runs hot at idle and extremely hot under load. It's commonly in 50's under idle and reaches the high 70's under load (causing the card to throttle) and I've seen it reach into the 80's during extended gaming sessions. Once it's even gotten hot enough to cause a system reboot.

If I remove the side panel, the GPU temps are in the high 30's/low 40's at idle and <60 under load, so I'm pretty sure it's an airflow issue.

I obviously need to improve my cooling, but I'd still like to keep the noise low most of the time while gaining the ability to crank up the cooling when needed.

I'm currently running all of my case fans off of my motherboard, which only provides 3 fan headers. Being limited to 3 fans is bothersome, but the ASUS Gene-Z comes with a pretty good software fan controller that can automatically adjust fan speeds in relation to temps, so I'd like to try to stick with using that rather than a dedicated fan controller (I have a feeling I'd just never actually use a manual controller) but I'm still kicking the idea of getting a dedicated controller around.

My current thinking is to replace the stock fans with something that moves more air and to move the top exhaust fan to the rear exhaust port. I'd like to add a side panel fan, but my CPU cooler isn't leaving me enough room to do so. I may also leave the top exhaust fan, but that would require me to get a controller, or some kind of 3 pin splitter cable.

As far as replacement fans, I'm thinking of running a Cougar Vortex CF-V14HB for exhaust and (since those won't fit the front mounts on the Arc Mini) going with SilenX Effizio Thermistor EFX-12-15T fans for the intakes. I'm also considering going with NZXT FX 120MM 2600 RPM Enthusiast fans, but I'm concerned about noise... I'm not sure these will spin low enough at idle to be silent.

So... any suggestions on how I can improve the situation? Thoughts on fan placement? Opinions on the fan models I'm thinking of? Other suggestions?


----------



## airdeano

move one front intake fan to the side panel and retest, this will at least
tell you about your air-flow problem, if it is air-flow issue. if the temps
decrease get a replacement fan for the front and install one in the roof
at the front location. if the temp stays the same, under-clock or find a
better cooling solution for GPU.

airdeano


----------



## Charlie--

@cls33 - If you only have 3 fans try them in this position for better cooling in your setup -

*Setup 1:*
Side - Intake
Rear - Exhaust
Top/Back - Exhaust

*Setup 2:*
Floor - Intake
Side - Intake
Rear - Exhaust

*Setup 3:*
Front Lower - Intake
Side - Intake
Rear - Exhaust

Setup 1 should give you a cooler CPU, setup 2 a cooler GPU & setup 3 some where in the middle.

I did not like the stock FD fans (made a clicking/ticking sound) I have replaced them with NB PK-3's, PK-2 & PL-2 - I will only be using 5 of them 3-intakes and 2 exhausts with a fan controller. Going to test this w/end which is the better position for me with either a floor intake (PL-2) or a side intake (PK-2). The front 2 intakes are PK-3's and the rear & top/back 2 exhausts are PK-3's too.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> I did not like the stock FD fans (made a clicking/ticking sound)


Mine don't do this (you probably got a bad batch) but they are too noisy for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cls33*
> 
> As far as replacement fans, I'm thinking of running a Cougar Vortex CF-V14HB for exhaust and (since those won't fit the front mounts on the Arc Mini) going with SilenX Effizio Thermistor EFX-12-15T fans for the intakes.


SilenX fans do suck. The Vortex's are very good through.


----------



## cls33

I'd love to add a fan to the side panel, but my CPU cooler (Hyper 212+) is pretty tall and doesn't leave me anywhere near enough clearance to fit one in there. The Arc Mini simply isn't wide enough.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Major update to my Design Core 1000 Build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000-custom-wc-underway/350_50#post_17435831
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good as always









Might I suggest some u channel to go around the drivebay cutout. Maybe it's just me but seeing water tubes and electric wires next to a sharp edge just makes me cringe


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Major update to my Design Core 1000 Build log:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000-custom-wc-underway/350_50#post_17435831
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good as always
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might I suggest some u channel to go around the drivebay cutout. Maybe it's just me but seeing water tubes and electric wires next to a sharp edge just makes me cringe
Click to expand...

I have white electrical tape for this exact reason 

Definitely a completely valid reason to cringe, I think everyone should be aware of things like that.


----------



## Blizlake

Got my Core 1000 up and running


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Got my Core 1000 up and running


Cool stuff bro !


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Got my Core 1000 up and running


Looking amazing. Not much you could do except remove that yellow sticker on the rear I/O and hide your front panels cables.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Looking amazing. Not much you could do except remove that yellow sticker on the rear I/O and hide your front panels cables.


Cheers








lol I didn't even notice that sticker, good catch! I'll be doing some more work on the cables after I order a 3pin splitter, new 92mm fan and a few 7v adapters


----------



## axipher

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Looking amazing. Not much you could do except remove that yellow sticker on the rear I/O and hide your front panels cables.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I didn't even notice that sticker, good catch! I'll be doing some more work on the cables after I order a 3pin splitter, new 92mm fan and a few 7v adapters
Click to expand...

Looking forward to more pics


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I didn't even notice that sticker, good catch! I'll be doing some more work on the cables after I order a 3pin splitter, new 92mm fan and a few 7v adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to more pics
Click to expand...

Did you check my "build log" yet? (sig)
few pics there


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol I didn't even notice that sticker, good catch! I'll be doing some more work on the cables after I order a 3pin splitter, new 92mm fan and a few 7v adapters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to more pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did you check my "build log" yet? (sig)
> few pics there
Click to expand...

Yep, already posted in it


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Installed a 670 directcu ii TOP (unstable pos that's being returned)



Cable management still isn't finished but not going to bother until I've got a working 670 in there.

Also I've got a black molex to 4x sata cable coming to replace the red one behind the hdd cage and some sleeving for the IO cables.

Quick question: is it possible to buy a black usb 3 header cable to replace the ghastly blue one?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Quick question: is it possible to buy a black usb 3 header cable to replace the ghastly blue one?


Yes, why not ?









Nice build, I like.


----------



## AbdullahG

Sorry, I'm a bit distracted by that glass head behind the case









Fractal Design Support is awesome! I only requested a new dust filter and they send me a new front panel with accessories!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Haha I use that to hold my headphones, just emailed them so hopefully they can get me one. Thanks


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Got my Core 1000 up and running


Very nice. Is that PSU larger than normal?


----------



## kubed_zero

Arc Mini FTW, I call it the Big Mini.

Specs can be found in sig, along with the build log- IN PROGRESS!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Installed a 670 directcu ii TOP (unstable pos that's being returned)
> 
> Cable management still isn't finished but not going to bother until I've got a working 670 in there.
> Also I've got a black molex to 4x sata cable coming to replace the red one behind the hdd cage and some sleeving for the IO cables.
> Quick question: is it possible to buy a black usb 3 header cable to replace the ghastly blue one?


Nice Rig!!! I'm surprised you got a blue USB 3.0 cable. My Arc Midi came with a black USB 3.0 cable even though newegg had pics of it having a blue cable. Perhaps Fractal might be able to provide one for you.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> My Arc Midi came with a black USB 3.0 cable even though newegg had pics of it having a blue cable. Perhaps Fractal might be able to provide one for you.


mines blue also fresh from NCIX cali branch.

airdeano


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Sorry, I'm a bit distracted by that glass head behind the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Support is awesome! I only requested a new dust filter and they send me a new front panel with accessories!


cooler master did that for my old 690 case where the reset button broke off. i would of been happy if they sent just the little tab to put back in but they sent the whole front panel.

i think its just easier for them to send the front panel then go threw for a little part.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Just ordered some acrylic sheets. One for a window and the other for a bit of an experiment with the front panel


----------



## csm725

What do guys think?


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Installed a 670 directcu ii TOP (unstable pos that's being returned)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management still isn't finished but not going to bother until I've got a working 670 in there.
> Also I've got a black molex to 4x sata cable coming to replace the red one behind the hdd cage and some sleeving for the IO cables.
> Quick question: is it possible to buy a black usb 3 header cable to replace the ghastly blue one?


I love it! Quick question are those bitfenix alchemy extensions or did you sleeve?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Thank you. Yeah they're bitfenix extensions. Didn't sleeve this psu because I'm planning on getting a different one soon, possibly an AX750 or 850. I love these extensions though, really good quality.


----------



## Kaneda13

Well, after getting paid for 15.4 hours at double time today (boss offered me double time if i would come in and help us get caught up), I was in such a great mood, i decided to go ahead and put my new bits in place, what think?

Before:









After:









No Flash:









Detail of the new eVGA backplate:









New fans on my custom shroud (lights not wired up yet):









New Fan on lower radiator:









Oh, and the all important before and after:
Before:








After:


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Well, after getting paid for 15.4 hours at double time today (boss offered me double time if i would come in and help us get caught up), I was in such a great mood, i decided to go ahead and put my new bits in place, what think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Flash:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Detail of the new eVGA backplate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New fans on my custom shroud (lights not wired up yet):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Fan on lower radiator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the all important before and after:
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


Nice one, I really like, great job









P.S. What fans are those?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> P.S. What fans are those?


Seems like the new Corsair fans.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Well, after getting paid for 15.4 hours at double time today (boss offered me double time if i would come in and help us get caught up), I was in such a great mood, i decided to go ahead and put my new bits in place, what think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Flash:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Detail of the new eVGA backplate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New fans on my custom shroud (lights not wired up yet):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Fan on lower radiator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the all important before and after:
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


Very nice. What kind of feets are you using? They seem taller than the stock ones.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Seems like the new Corsair fans.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/911861/width/508/height/600/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You are correct, they are the high performance versions.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Very nice. What kind of feets are you using? They seem taller than the stock ones.


lol, they are the timing chain crank sprockets out of mini cooper engines. there was a bulletin to replace the timing chains in the engines, and we had bunches of them laying around. a little super glue and some felt pads later, ta-da!

here's a close up of when i was making them:


----------



## kubed_zero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Well, after getting paid for 15.4 hours at double time today (boss offered me double time if i would come in and help us get caught up), I was in such a great mood, i decided to go ahead and put my new bits in place, what think?
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No Flash:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Detail of the new eVGA backplate:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New fans on my custom shroud (lights not wired up yet):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New Fan on lower radiator:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and the all important before and after:
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


So your temp difference was seen completely just by switching out the fans?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> So your temp difference was seen completely just by switching out the fans?


all i did was change the fans and the gpu backplate.


----------



## Skrumzy

I think I am eventually going to add my gpu to my loop and plan on trying to squeeze a 120 at the bottom as well. I have to look, but I'm pretty sure I can make it happen







. You guys think a 240 at the top and a 120 at the bottom could cool 670s in SLI and an i5 3570k?


----------



## kubed_zero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> I think I am eventually going to add my gpu to my loop and plan on trying to squeeze a 120 at the bottom as well. I have to look, but I'm pretty sure I can make it happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You guys think a 240 at the top and a 120 at the bottom could cool 670s in SLI and an i5 3570k?


I think maybe if they are 50 or 60mm rads, but standard rads might not be able to take away all the heat.


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> I think maybe if they are 50 or 60mm rads, but standard rads might not be able to take away all the heat.


well I have an ex240 at the top and I was planning on putting an rx120 at the bottom


----------



## kubed_zero

That would probably work then! is the 3570k overclocked to all hell, with increased voltages and temps?


----------



## Ramsey77

An update to my rig. Did some sleeving with paracord to add a bit more color.


----------



## AbdullahG

That paracord looks awesome! Where'd you get it from?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> That paracord looks awesome! Where'd you get it from?


Ebay. $4 for 20 foot of each color and free shipping.

Flockdeals


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Ebay. $4 for 20 foot of each color and free shipping.
> Flockdeals


yeah, the ebays gots the paracord.. ive bought at least 1/2 mile and will be needing more, soon.
there are several stores with monster color selection. but a warning. if you have to restock, you
may not get the same shade if they have to reorder. so over buy by a lil to make sure you have
the right shade though out the build..

airdeano


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> yeah, the ebays gots the paracord.. ive bought at least 1/2 mile and will be needing more, soon.
> there are several stores with monster color selection. but a warning. if you have to restock, you
> may not get the same shade if they have to reorder. so over buy by a lil to make sure you have
> the right shade though out the build..
> airdeano


+Rep for the heads up.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Fractal Design said that they were unable to provide me with a black usb 3 header cable so I guess I'm gonna have to paint it. Any recommendations on what paint to use?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Fractal Design said that they were unable to provide me with a black usb 3 header cable so I guess I'm gonna have to paint it. Any recommendations on what paint to use?


what you gonna do with a corsair logo on the psu and waterblock? i would recommend to leave it as it is, till you do some perfectly clean serious mod. it's just not worth the effort.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> what you gonna do with a corsair logo on the psu and waterblock? i would recommend to leave it as it is, till you do some perfectly clean serious mod. it's just not worth the effort.


I've got clean peel stickers coming (red corsair ship and writing for the block and the HX sticker but in red) so I can remove them if an RMA is required.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> An update to my rig. Did some sleeving with paracord to add a bit more color.
> <...snip>
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@Ramsey77 - I really like the sleeving you have done on those cables, very neat and well thought-out









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I've got clean peel stickers coming (red corsair ship and writing for the block and the HX sticker but in red) so I can remove them if an RMA is required.


Where did you order them from?


----------



## Ramsey77

Thanks Charlie. I am doing the other set a bit differently.


----------



## Charlie--

Sounds interesting, I can't wait to see the results, I am sure it will be pure awesomeness


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

My friend works for a printing company and he made them for me.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> My friend works for a printing company and he made them for me.


Always good to have some friends who can paint things for you








It would be perfectly if I would know someone from a local paintshop....
O the creativity is coming throw


----------



## surfbumb

went to microcenter for the first time and had a good experience. Got the cpu+mobo discount and got some kingston ram, booted right up no issues.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> went to microcenter for the first time and had a good experience. Got the cpu+mobo discount and got some kingston ram, booted right up no issues.


Sure looks like a good experience at Microcenter


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> went to microcenter for the first time and had a good experience. Got the cpu+mobo discount and got some kingston ram, booted right up no issues.


Nice set up ya got there.







Welcome to the club!


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Hello, I am back with a few questions. I am running my Matx build inside a CM 690 II, don't get me wrong I love it but I stumbled across a picture a few nights ago with a front 240 rad in the Arc Mini. I was wondering how much modding would I need to do this, is it just taking out the front bays or is there some advance modding going on? Sorry I forgot where I saw this picture. Hopefully you guys know what I am talking about.


----------



## tambok2012

can anyone mount force mount 120mm fan @ the back of the Core 1000?


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> went to microcenter for the first time and had a good experience. Got the cpu+mobo discount and got some kingston ram, booted right up no issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great so far, you got some neat kit there, I can't wait to see more photos.


----------



## cheewah0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hello, I am back with a few questions. I am running my Matx build inside a CM 690 II, don't get me wrong I love it but I stumbled across a picture a few nights ago with a front 240 rad in the Arc Mini. I was wondering how much modding would I need to do this, is it just taking out the front bays or is there some advance modding going on? Sorry I forgot where I saw this picture. Hopefully you guys know what I am talking about.


Hi andmygun, I have the Arc Mini and it isn't hard to put a 240 rad in front of the case. There are many ways you can remove the rivetts which holds the front cages but I just used a drill and it worked like a charm. The most carpenting work I have ever done is Ikea so if I can do it, I am pretty sure most people can.

Note however that you should measure your radiator. I do not have anything holding my radiator up, it literally just fits very snugly (with a little wiggling capacity) - pictures are available on my sig and feel free to pop any further questions if required.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheewah0*
> 
> Hi andmygun, I have the Arc Mini and it isn't hard to put a 240 rad in front of the case. There are many ways you can remove the rivetts which holds the front cages but I just used a drill and it worked like a charm. The most carpenting work I have ever done is Ikea so if I can do it, I am pretty sure most people can.
> Note however that you should measure your radiator. I do not have anything holding my radiator up, it literally just fits very snugly (with a little wiggling capacity) - pictures are available on my sig and feel free to pop any further questions if required.


I was thinking of just throwing a rs240 kit inside it. I know I can fit it on top but I've only recently seen it front mounted. I'll be sure to

I was thinking of just throwing a RS/RX240 kit inside it. I know I can fit it on top but I've only recently seen it front mounted. Do you perhaps have a picture?


----------



## cheewah0

The RS240 would be a safer bet as the measurements are very similar to:

The Koolance HX-CU720V I use (WxHxD - 119x276x30)
The XSPC RS240 (WxHxD - 121x277x35)

The width and the depth is not really an issue as it has some space to spare but the RX240 has a 280mm height. I cannot confirm if it will fit or not without proper measurements when I get home but my gut feel is that it would not fit and even if it does, the fittings and piping will be an issue.

My post/picture is shown on page 256 of this thread or at this link (sry, still new with the forum thing and don't know how too add a picture to a reply!)

http://www.overclock.net/gallery/image/view/album/651152/id/886168/sort/display_order


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> can anyone mount force mount 120mm fan @ the back of the Core 1000?


Sorry dude, not possible. You can see the upper right mounting screw for the 92mm fan through the blades on the pic. The 120mm fan overlaps the case quite a bit.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cheewah0*
> 
> The RS240 would be a safer bet as the measurements are very similar to:
> The Koolance HX-CU720V I use (WxHxD - 119x276x30)
> The XSPC RS240 (WxHxD - 121x277x35)
> The width and the depth is not really an issue as it has some space to spare but the RX240 has a 280mm height. I cannot confirm if it will fit or not without proper measurements when I get home but my gut feel is that it would not fit and even if it does, the fittings and piping will be an issue.
> My post/picture is shown on page 256 of this thread or at this link (sry, still new with the forum thing and don't know how too add a picture to a reply!)
> http://www.overclock.net/gallery/image/view/album/651152/id/886168/sort/display_order


No need to be sorry you have an awesome rig. If I pick up a Arc Mini I'll be sure to thank you. You have answered all my questions.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Hi guys i'm relatively new to the forums just thought i would post my little server based in the core 1000, i really do love this case it's brilliant.
Having said that i have made a few small modifications to make it slightly better.


----------



## AbdullahG

Looks nice! Someone else also did that drive bay and PSU cover around on the forums.


----------



## kubed_zero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hello, I am back with a few questions. I am running my Matx build inside a CM 690 II, don't get me wrong I love it but I stumbled across a picture a few nights ago with a front 240 rad in the Arc Mini. I was wondering how much modding would I need to do this, is it just taking out the front bays or is there some advance modding going on? Sorry I forgot where I saw this picture. Hopefully you guys know what I am talking about.


I know exactly what you are talking about, something like this insane image. not mine, but I've gotten close to that


Apparently all you need to do is remove the drive cage by drilling the rivets out, and then the tubing and all the other components will hold that front 240 rad in place without the need for screws.

Actually, you MAY need to clip off the clips that hold the fans to the front plastic panel, but that would be the only other mod.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> can anyone mount force mount 120mm fan @ the back of the Core 1000?


Nope, 92 mm is the most you can fit.

And here is a small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:

*Project Maple Leaf*


----------



## kubed_zero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Nope, 92 mm is the most you can fit.
> And here is a small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:


Wow, I didn't think this was possible. Nice work!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Nope, 92 mm is the most you can fit.
> And here is a small update to my Core 1000 Build Log:
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I didn't think this was possible. Nice work!
Click to expand...

Thanks man 

And what didn't you think was possible?


----------



## kubed_zero

Fitting such a thick rad, plus all the extra water cooling stuff, in such a tiny case! Like that whole design sitting above the CPU block...it never would have even crossed my mind to do something like that.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Fitting such a thick rad, plus all the extra water cooling stuff, in such a tiny case! Like that whole design sitting above the CPU block...it never would have even crossed my mind to do something like that.


Yeah, I spent pretty much 6 hours last week playing with the barbed fittings from Canary Red trying to fit components in and I tried this idea out *for fun* just to test the components to make sure everything worked. Once I saw the 11 mm rotary spacers on DazMode, I knew that it was destiny


----------



## carmas

Wow, axipher, that is really a clean waterloop you have there. I am definitely going to check your build log.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Yeah, I spent pretty much 6 hours last week playing with the barbed fittings from Canary Red trying to fit components in and I tried this idea out *for fun* just to test the components to make sure everything worked. Once I saw the 11 mm rotary spacers on DazMode, I knew that it was destiny


I got a question: isn't that inefficient to have three radiators for cpu loop only, especially considering the fact that the temperatures will only go as low as the room temps?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Wow, axipher, that is really a clean waterloop you have there. I am definitely going to check your build log.


Thanks 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Yeah, I spent pretty much 6 hours last week playing with the barbed fittings from Canary Red trying to fit components in and I tried this idea out *for fun* just to test the components to make sure everything worked. Once I saw the 11 mm rotary spacers on DazMode, I knew that it was destiny
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a question: isn't that inefficient to have three radiators for cpu loop only, especially considering the fact that the temperatures will only go as low as the room temps?
Click to expand...

Well Canary Red is currently down-graded to just an H80. I used the parts out of it to water-cool Maple Leaf.

My initial intentions was to keep Canary Red as my main rig and build Maple Leaf as a LAN rig and invest in a file server later once I got my own house. This meant that Canary Red would eventually get a top-end GPU with water block, or maybe even a dual-GPU card. Bulldozer + a top-end GPU would get mighty hot so having the available RAD space was needed. I got all 3 RAD's for very cheap from the OCN marketplace along with the reservoirs, pumps, and some fittings.

After seeing how much power I was able to get out of Maple Leaf, I decided to use it as my main rig and Canary Red got converted to a server. Since then Canary Red got downgraded to a Nvidia 7300 GS as well since it just needed a basic GPU so that I could get VNC working.

I now have a RS240 and a 120 mm RAD laying around now with a Swifttech MicroRes. I'm not sure if I want to sell them off, or re-add a loop to my Canary Red build. For now my focus is 100% on Maple Leaf though since I want to see it through completely to the end. There is a lot of work to be done on it, you can see the list on the first post in my build log.


----------



## goldbranch

Does anyone know if Fractal Design would sell a separate window side panel for the Arc mini or I'm just gonna have to cut one myself?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch*
> 
> Does anyone know if Fractal Design would sell a separate window side panel for the Arc mini or I'm just gonna have to cut one myself?


Not sure if Fractal will provide one, but it's always way more fun to make one yourself.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch*
> 
> Does anyone know if Fractal Design would sell a separate window side panel for the Arc mini or I'm just gonna have to cut one myself?


They are working on a window panel for some of their cases AFAIK, but nobody has any idea when they'll come out.
Cut the window, it's more satisfying than buying one


----------



## goldbranch

I wish I can but I've never done anything like that before. I don't have the tools and really don't know where to start.
Anyone wanna make some quick money?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch*
> 
> Does anyone know if Fractal Design would sell a separate window side panel for the Arc mini or I'm just gonna have to cut one myself?


Check the side panel link in my Sig for an idea you might try out. It's super easy, and no way you can ruin the original.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Check the side panel link in my Sig for an idea you might try out. It's super easy, and no way you can ruin the original.


+1 for dat. i ordered a spare panel for mine, wished id gotten the soild instead.

airdeano


----------



## Charlie--

Just finished my "Stealth DVD Drive V1" mod for the Arc Midi. The bay cover can be easily taken off to enable the whole front panel to be removed without having to remove the DVD drive from inside. Also, not only is it stealth in looks but has a bit of sound proofing (kind of) on the front bay of the drive too.




Spoiler: DVD draw open (side view & with bay cover)









Spoiler: DVD draw open (front view & with bay cover)









Spoiler: DVD draw open (front view & bay cover removed)







For v2 I will use stronger double-side foam to stick the larger foam blocks to the drive draw and neaten things up a little bit. Also I will be spraying the back part of the drive housing gloss white. At the moment I am not sure whether to paint the draw inside white or add a white LED instead.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> went to microcenter for the first time and had a good experience. Got the cpu+mobo discount and got some kingston ram, booted right up no issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, MicroCenter rocks. I support them whenever I can...which is pretty easy given their pricing.

Welcome to the club


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Just finished my "Stealth DVD Drive V1" mod for the Arc Midi. The bay cover can be easily taken off to enable the whole front panel to be removed without having to remove the DVD drive from inside. Also, not only is it stealth in looks but has a bit of sound proofing (kind of) on the front bay of the drive too.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: DVD draw open (side view & with bay cover)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: DVD draw open (front view & with bay cover)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: DVD draw open (front view & bay cover removed)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For v2 I will use stronger double-side foam to stick the larger foam blocks to the drive draw and neaten things up a little bit. Also I will be spraying the back part of the drive housing gloss white. At the moment I am not sure whether to paint the draw inside white or add a white LED instead.


Awesome looking. Very clean, but I have a question. How do you open it?


----------



## airdeano

and she's filled up in stock trim...

airdeano


----------



## Charlie--

@Ramsey77 - Thanks and good question too. To open you just press lightly on the bottom corner (see white square in photo below) & bingo out the draw pops


----------



## Ramsey77

Nice. I like.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I apologize in advance for my terrible paint skills but it took 2 minutes to do so meh.

I'm having open knee surgery on the 22nd and I'll be off work for 6 weeks minimum so I'll be doing these mods then to keep me busy.



Removing upper hdd rails
Installing grommets on rear of 5.25 bays to route the front panels cables through so they're not visible
Making a cover for the side of the 5.25 bays
Small cover for psu cables (not fully decided on this yet)
Extending the mobo tray towards the front of the case so you can't see the rear panel
Sleeving the front panel cables
Recolouring the usb3 cable
Stickers for the psu and h100 block (big apologies for my paint skills here)
Paint blue psu sockets red
Removal of dvd drive
Cover for front panel to surround fans
Possibly get new 140mm fans and 120mm fans (Prolimatech Red Vortex) and a new fan controller (possibly Bitfenix Recon)
Extra 8gb ram but painting them (red,black,red,black)

Oh and a window


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Let the modding begin:thumb:

First up, window.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I apologize in advance for my terrible paint skills but it took 2 minutes to do so meh.
> I'm having open knee surgery on the 22nd and I'll be off work for 6 weeks minimum so I'll be doing these mods then to keep me busy.
> 
> Removing upper hdd rails
> Installing grommets on rear of 5.25 bays to route the front panels cables through so they're not visible
> Making a cover for the side of the 5.25 bays
> Small cover for psu cables (not fully decided on this yet)
> Extending the mobo tray towards the front of the case so you can't see the rear panel
> Sleeving the front panel cables
> Recolouring the usb3 cable
> Stickers for the psu and h100 block (big apologies for my paint skills here)
> Paint blue psu sockets red
> Removal of dvd drive
> Cover for front panel to surround fans
> Possibly get new 140mm fans and 120mm fans (Prolimatech Red Vortex) and a new fan controller (possibly Bitfenix Recon)
> Extra 8gb ram but painting them (red,black,red,black)
> Oh and a window


Are you doing a build log, or just keeping us updated here?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Let the modding begin:thumb:
> First up, window.


Same question as above for you. Anxious to see what you guys come up with.







Good luck.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Let the modding begin:thumb:
> First up, window.


looks good, i started the same way.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> looks good, i started the same way.


Good, means im headin the right way with it haha.


----------



## juanP




----------



## AbdullahG

^That looks amazingly gorgeous...
What CPU cooler do you plan on using?


----------



## shogrran

I need some help guys. Is there a fractal design contact here in overclock.net that you can refer me to? I bought a fractal arc midi case and one of the fans aren't working. The retailer here in the Philippines is taking too long to replace just the fan. It's just one fan. They say they are waiting for an email from the distributor but I have been waiting a long time. I am not happy about it obviously and it is frustrating. And a fan isn't a cheap item I can just disregard.

Who can I probably message? I tried contacting fractal via the site and I have not received any form of reply what so ever. Is fractal's customer support that bad?


----------



## Charlie--

@Lukegrimbley - Good luck with the window mod, I would like to do what you are doing, but will be doing a window mod like Ramsey77's one instead









@juanP - Very nice rig you got there so far


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> Is there a fractal design contact here in overclock.net that you can refer me to?


No, Fractal Design doesn't have any rep here...


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> I need some help guys. Is there a fractal design contact here in overclock.net that you can refer me to? I bought a fractal arc midi case and one of the fans aren't working. The retailer here in the Philippines is taking too long to replace just the fan. It's just one fan. They say they are waiting for an email from the distributor but I have been waiting a long time. I am not happy about it obviously and it is frustrating. And a fan isn't a cheap item I can just disregard.
> 
> Who can I probably message? I tried contacting fractal via the site and I have not received any form of reply what so ever. Is fractal's customer support that bad?


It usually takes a few days to get an email back from the international support. Their customer service has been top notch


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> It usually takes a few days to get an email back from the international support. Their customer service has been top notch


+1
Fractal Design CS has been super when needed.
I had a 180mm fan that had a terrible clicking sound. Distributor wanted the whole case just to RMA the fan.
That was obviously not acceptable. I contacted Fractal Design directly. They sent me a new fan FOC - no questions asked.

Top notch service!


----------



## Charlie--

Aye FD customer service is great, just sometimes it can take a few days for them to get back to you, it might have just been them finding the answer to my question about when their fan controller would be available in the UK & the price.

OK back to moding the Arc Midi. I've just picked up some white primer & gloss (Plasti-Kote) spray paint and some gloss vinyl to use with my plotter/cutter for custom decals on the case, fans & anywhere else I think they would look good, these will be subtle but enhance the look of the case, just not sure on the design yet.









P.S. It would be good to use the Fractal design font for some of the decal designs, does anyone know what font they use? I might drop them an email to see if they will tell me and one to Noiseblockers too - The other way is for me to find their design on the web and import/convert them to a vector graphic to use, this would take longer and not be as good tho'


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Aye FD customer service is great, just sometimes it can take a few days for them to get back to you, it might have just been them finding the answer to my question about when their fan controller would be available in the UK & the price.
> OK back to moding the Arc Midi. I've just picked up some white primer & gloss (Plasti-Kote) spray paint and some gloss vinyl to use with my plotter/cutter for custom decals on the case, fans & anywhere else I think they would look good, these will be subtle but enhance the look of the case, just not sure on the design yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. It would be good to use the Fractal design font for some of the decal designs, does anyone know what font they use? I might drop them an email to see if they will tell me and one to Noiseblockers too - The other way is for me to find their design on the web and import/convert them to a vector graphic to use, this would take longer and not be as good tho'


Ii know they have downloadable graphics logos on their site too, if your looking for and of those.


----------



## kubed_zero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> +1
> Fractal Design CS has been super when needed.
> I had a 180mm fan that had a terrible clicking sound. Distributor wanted the whole case just to RMA the fan.
> That was obviously not acceptable. I contacted Fractal Design directly. They sent me a new fan FOC - no questions asked.
> Top notch service!


I had the same problem with a 140mm fan that wobbled, Free of Charge replacement. I couldn't be any happier with Fractal Designs


----------



## axipher

Fractal Design has some of the best customer service I've dealt with yet. They have a permanent customer out of me for sure.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Ii know they have downloadable graphics logos on their site too, if your looking for and of those.


Cheers for the tip (+rep), they might be useful, would be great to find one of just the "snowflake" to use.


----------



## Kaneda13

Anyone know (or can they measure) the side panel of a Core 1000 to see if it will fit on a Arc Mini, and do you know if the left and right panels are swappable? i'm looking to do another window style, but i don't want to buy a whole new arc mini, however i would be willing to buy a $40 core 1000 if it would fit.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Anyone know (or can they measure) the side panel of a Core 1000 to see if it will fit on a Arc Mini, and do you know if the left and right panels are swappable? i'm looking to do another window style, but i don't want to buy a whole new arc mini, however i would be willing to buy a $40 core 1000 if it would fit.


Have you tried contacting Fractal Design directly yet? They are normally more than willing to help with stuff like this.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Have you tried contacting Fractal Design directly yet? They are normally more than willing to help with stuff like this.


i did a couple of months ago (when i first bought it), and they said they weren't able to offer individual parts at that time.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Have you tried contacting Fractal Design directly yet? They are normally more than willing to help with stuff like this.
> 
> 
> 
> i did a couple of months ago (when i first bought it), and they said they weren't able to offer individual parts at that time.
Click to expand...

Try again, I know about 5 of us for sure have been able to get parts from them without issue, most of the time free shipping as well.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Try again, I know about 5 of us for sure have been able to get parts from them without issue, most of the time free shipping as well.


kk, thanks for the info. i'll drop them email tonight.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Try again, I know about 5 of us for sure have been able to get parts from them without issue, most of the time free shipping as well.
> 
> 
> 
> kk, thanks for the info. i'll drop them email tonight.
Click to expand...

Good luck, if you have a build log here, link it in the e-mail, that might have been what worked for me.


----------



## DJKAY

I just can tell the same of the Fractal-Support in germany they outsourced it but they just said:"yeah we are going to send you a new 5,25" bay-cover and a new top-mesh for your ARC midi."
I did not even need to send them pictures!

I think they are one of the best supporters I´ve ever met!

I´m still amazed.


----------



## shogrran

Finally I got a reply later today. They did say they will send me a replacement part. It's going to be the first time I'll ever receive any international support from them. How does this go? Do they send the part via normal mail ? UPS? Fedex? How many days usually for overseas shipping? Do I also get a return slip so I can ship them the defective part too?


----------



## Lukegrimbley

More of the window mod:



Think it's not bad for my first time with a dremel



Not happy with myself for this. Let the Dremel slip and scratched the paint. Thankfully its not noticable.



Test Fit. Happy overall. Can't wait for the U-channel to arrive so i can get it done:thumb:


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanP*


May I know how to remove the filters cleanly?


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> More of the window mod:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think it's not bad for my first time with a dremel
> 
> Not happy with myself for this. Let the Dremel slip and scratched the paint. Thankfully its not noticable.
> 
> Test Fit. Happy overall. Can't wait for the U-channel to arrive so i can get it done:thumb:


Looks good to me, and yeah you can barely notice the scratch from the top of the 3rd picture. If the u channel doesn't cover it all the way just throw a bit of sharpie on it and you should be fine, that is if you don't feel ike repainting it all together. ( lazy fixes ftw )


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Good luck, if you have a build log here, link it in the e-mail, that might have been what worked for me.


email sent, we'll see where it goes.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> May I know how to remove the filters cleanly?


it's very simple, just remove the front panel (pull t the bottom. on the inside you can see the metal mesh tabs folder over, straighten those out and the front mesh will come off, then remove the filters and reinstall the mesh. if you want go a bit more advanced, you can cut the plastic, so it will look like this:


----------



## jvkua

I'm actually about to purchase a new case and space for me is an issue. After I checked a lot of cases, I thought that Fractal Design had the best cases that fit exactly my purposes, which is good cooling and easy installation and upgrades. So my main question is actually, Is there a notable difference between the Core 3000 and the Arc Mini?

I will be running the case with it's stock fans and I won't be buying newer fans for awhile.

Is the $20~ price difference between the Arc Mini and the Core 3000 worth it?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> I'm actually about to purchase a new case and space for me is an issue. After I checked a lot of cases, I thought that Fractal Design had the best cases that fit exactly my purposes, which is good cooling and easy installation and upgrades. So my main question is actually, Is there a notable difference between the Core 3000 and the Arc Mini?
> I will be running the case with it's stock fans and I won't be buying newer fans for awhile.
> Is the $20~ price difference between the Arc Mini and the Core 3000 worth it?


The arc is wider, which is a big plus. More width = more space behind mobo tray and/or more room for heatsinks.
The arc mini has 2x120mm fans on the front whereas Core3k has 140+120, that may be a pro or a con to you. Personally, I'd probably get the Arc out of those2.
What kind of cpu cooling will you be running? If a heatsink, switch the rear exhaust over to front so you have 2x front, 1x top and the heatsink fans pushing either through the rear exhaust vent or North-South so the heatsink exhausts through the top fan.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> The arc is wider, which is a big plus. More width = more space behind mobo tray and/or more room for heatsinks.
> The arc mini has 2x120mm fans on the front whereas Core3k has 140+120, that may be a pro or a con to you. Personally, I'd probably get the Arc out of those2.
> What kind of cpu cooling will you be running? If a heatsink, switch the rear exhaust over to front so you have 2x front, 1x top and the heatsink fans pushing either through the rear exhaust vent or North-South so the heatsink exhausts through the top fan.


i second this good advice.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> I'm actually about to purchase a new case and space for me is an issue. After I checked a lot of cases, I thought that Fractal Design had the best cases that fit exactly my purposes, which is good cooling and easy installation and upgrades. So my main question is actually, Is there a notable difference between the Core 3000 and the Arc Mini?
> I will be running the case with it's stock fans and I won't be buying newer fans for awhile.
> Is the $20~ price difference between the Arc Mini and the Core 3000 worth it?


I have the Core 3000, it has less space for cable management than the Arc Midi but it shouldn't affect you since you have a modular Power Supply.

Here's mine :



The only disadvantage I found is the lack of hole for the 8pin cable which I routed across the motherboard (it can also be bypassed by buying an extension cable) :



So yeah you're better off when you have modular PS.


----------



## axipher

Here's an updated pic and some info regarding GPU clearances form the RAD, I forget who had asked me for it.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here's an updated pic and some info regarding GPU clearances form the RAD, I forget who had asked me for it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


good info, thanks.


----------



## jvkua

Thanks for the quick and great advice!

I was actually already leaning towards Arc Mini and I just wasn't really sure if the price justified it. I'm using a modular PSU, I'm sure that will help with cable management. And I'm also using a CM TX3 Evo, which is a tower style heatsink.

I guess I'm going to purchase an Arc Mini if I'm able to find one since it's lesser in stock compared to the Arc Midi(which is too big for me)


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> And I'm also using a CM TX3 Evo, which is a tower style heatsink.


Core 3000 support 160mm height coolers (NH-D14 is 160 for example).
Arc Midi supports 180mm height coolers.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> Thanks for the quick and great advice!
> I was actually already leaning towards Arc Mini and I just wasn't really sure if the price justified it. I'm using a modular PSU, I'm sure that will help with cable management. And I'm also using a CM TX3 Evo, which is a tower style heatsink.
> I guess I'm going to purchase an Arc Mini if I'm able to find one since it's lesser in stock compared to the Arc Midi(which is too big for me)


I love my Mini.







There is Literally nothing I dislike about this case.


----------



## kubed_zero

The weight is my only gripe, but that is also good, in knowing that it is super well built


----------



## lurker2501

i wonder how much does the arc midi weigh with hardware and a full loop. propapbly would make a good exercise tool


----------



## kubed_zero

I have that exact setup, I'll go weigh it and see.

After weighing it, it read 39 pounds flat.

Here's a picture, and the specs are in my sig


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> it's very simple, just remove the front panel (pull t the bottom. on the inside you can see the metal mesh tabs folder over, straighten those out and the front mesh will come off, then remove the filters and reinstall the mesh. if you want go a bit more advanced, you can cut the plastic, so it will look like this:


I just noticed the feet of your arc midi looks different too. One of your mods too?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> I just noticed the feet of your arc midi looks different too. One of your mods too?


yes, they are actually the crankshaft timing sprockets off mini cooper engines (i'm a mechanic, and replacing them was put of a bulletin).


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> Thanks for the quick and great advice!
> I was actually already leaning towards Arc Mini and I just wasn't really sure if the price justified it. I'm using a modular PSU, I'm sure that will help with cable management. And I'm also using a CM TX3 Evo, which is a tower style heatsink.
> I guess I'm going to purchase an Arc Mini if I'm able to find one since it's lesser in stock compared to the Arc Midi(which is too big for me)


I was going for the Core 3000 then decide on the Arc Mini, as I thought the Midi would be to big, but I realised that the Mini is not that much smaller than the Midi so I got the Midi in the end, the only slight issue I have is that you are restricted to 140mm fans on the front


----------



## TheNovice

Hi all,

Just wanted to share my Fractal Design case.
Nothing special really - heavy as F... - great for bench pressing! 

The only thing i have "modded" was cutting out the mesh in the side as it created a lot of noice (no matter what fan i would use). I did the same at the rear. PCI-E slot covers removed and i have tried to guide the air flow usingsome carbon fibre.
The weave is not going in the same direction on the top and bottom plate as the CF was something i had as a left over from a different kind of project.


----------



## juanP

got my wiring done yesterday. i really like this arc midi case. perfect for me.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Try again, I know about 5 of us for sure have been able to get parts from them without issue, most of the time free shipping as well.


meh, emailed them at 5pm on Wednesday night, still haven't heard back.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Try again, I know about 5 of us for sure have been able to get parts from them without issue, most of the time free shipping as well.
> 
> 
> 
> meh, emailed them at 5pm on Wednesday night, still haven't heard back.
Click to expand...

It took me 3 days to get an e-mail back form a representative, but once you start an e-mail thread with someone, they are very quick to respond.


----------



## Ramsey77

I have tried three times, and never heard a word.


----------



## axipher

Let me e-mail the rep I spoke with and see if he would be okay accepting direct inquiries from members of OCN.


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanP*
> 
> got my wiring done yesterday. i really like this arc midi case. perfect for me.


Nice.

Fractal makes the best cases. Every case I see looks super clean and badass.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Let me e-mail the rep I spoke with and see if he would be okay accepting direct inquiries from members of OCN.


----------



## airdeano

i usually get a word back next-day from off the web-site contact page..
quick and follows through..

airdeano


----------



## radarjam

I have the Fractal Arc midi case and I'm happy with it







Got it from an NCIX warehouse sale for only $60!


----------



## xtclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radarjam*
> 
> I have the Fractal Arc midi case and I'm happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got it from an NCIX warehouse sale for only $60!


60? what a bargain!


----------



## jmdulay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanP*
> 
> got my wiring done yesterday. i really like this arc midi case. perfect for me.


Took me 5 minutes to actually notice what a great job you did with those cables. I got too distracted drooling over those GPUs.


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanP*
> 
> got my wiring done yesterday. i really like this arc midi case. perfect for me.


May we also see the back of the motherboard tray? I'd like to see it so I can "copy" some of how you do your cable management.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanP*
> 
> got my wiring done yesterday. i really like this arc midi case. perfect for me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Neat job I really like it







+1 for photos of the back of the mobo tray please









*P.S.*
Does anyone know if the power LED in the Arc Midi is a single or duel colour one? - Thanks









*EDIT*
Ok, did a test and the power led is a single colour (blue) - I take it that the HDD led should be red? - Just having an issue with the power led from the mobo as the existing header had a bi-colour led on it that is yellow (for 1 sec) on boot then an constant blue. Just hope I don't blow the led on the Arc as I have know idea what the max reverse voltage is for the power led and what voltage the mobo header outputs


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just ordered some black plasti dip to use on my blue usb3 cable and some red for an experiment I've got planned.


----------



## InTheFade




----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InTheFade*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good!


----------



## merple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InTheFade*


Very nice work









Strangely enough, I was planning on picking up an Arc and some plexi and doing the exact same thing.

Any tips on the process?
Looks like you used the magnetic tape method for the window.
How is your psu cover held in place? I was planning on using velcro.

Also: I think there is supposed to be an allen key provided by Fractal for removing those mounts for the extra hard drive bay that you have removed. Would make it look even cleaner imho


----------



## InTheFade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *merple*
> 
> Very nice work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Strangely enough, I was planning on picking up an Arc and some plexi and doing the exact same thing.
> Any tips on the process?
> Looks like you used the magnetic tape method for the window.
> How is your psu cover held in place? I was planning on using velcro.
> Also: I think there is supposed to be an allen key provided by Fractal for removing those mounts for the extra hard drive bay that you have removed. Would make it look even cleaner imho


The measurements for the plexi are 480x44mm. Any magnet strips you're likely to find will have crappy adhesive on the back that lasts about a day before it peels off. The first step is to remove that with some sort of solvent. I used 2-part epoxy to glue the strip to the plexi since I have a big tube of it handy. Something like 3M clear mounting tape would be pretty good too, or some other sort of strong glue.

The only issue I've had is that the plexi sags down after a while, especially if the desk moves around a lot. And I need to find a way to cover up the magnet strips, the glue looks so ugly...

Since I don't move my case around often, there is nothing holding the PSU cover in place. It just rests between the PCIe slot and the USB/front panel headers on the motherboard. Eventually I'm gunna put an LED strip beneath it, the opal white sheet I got looks really nice when it's backlit.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InTheFade*
> 
> The measurements for the plexi are 480x44mm. Any magnet strips you're likely to find will have crappy adhesive on the back that lasts about a day before it peels off. The first step is to remove that with some sort of solvent. I used 2-part epoxy to glue the strip to the plexi since I have a big tube of it handy. Something like 3M clear mounting tape would be pretty good too, or some other sort of strong glue.
> The only issue I've had is that the plexi sags down after a while, especially if the desk moves around a lot. And I need to find a way to cover up the magnet strips, the glue looks so ugly...
> Since I don't move my case around often, there is nothing holding the PSU cover in place. It just rests between the PCIe slot and the USB/front panel headers on the motherboard. Eventually I'm gunna put an LED strip beneath it, the opal white sheet I got looks really nice when it's backlit.


Really like the mods you have done to your case, nice job







See Ramsey77 's signature as he has done a great clear plexi window and has disguised the holding magnets very well too.

P.S. What thickness of plexi did you use for the window?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Really like the mods you have done to your case, nice job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See Ramsey77 's signature as he has done a great clear plexi window and has disguised the holding magnets very well too.
> P.S. What thickness of plexi did you use for the window?


My widow is real glass, but the process would be the same with plexi.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just had a reply from Fractal about my dodgy front audio cable. Instead of sending a new cable they're sending a front panel. Top marks for customer service. I think I might experiment with a few mods on the old panel.


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just had a reply from Fractal about my dodgy front audio cable. Instead of sending a new cable they're sending a front panel. Top marks for customer service. I think I might experiment with a few mods on the old panel.


I got a reply from mine as well. But what they usually do instead of making you send the item to them is make sure it is indeed broken if not majorly unusable. The reply I got asked me to break a fan blade, take a picture and send it to them. I was like WOAH, you'll definitely need to replace that by then.


----------



## kmetek

when is FRACTAL DESIGN R4 come out?


----------



## allenkane

For those of you with Corsair Hxx coolers, how did you mount your radiator?

I just ordered all my stuff for a new rig and chose the mini :< Been wanting to get an FD case ever since the original came out.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Window done. Came out good i think

Sorry for the really bad photo. Will try and get some good ones. Need to get myself a camera


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Window done. Came out good i think
> Sorry for the really bad photo. Will try and get some good ones. Need to get myself a camera
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


May I ask what you used for the edges of the plexi meeting the metal? Is that some gasket or something? I don't know what its called... so I don't know what to ask for in stores.


----------



## juanP

my gtx 690's vents out heat both ways, so i was wondering turning the front case fans from intake to exhaust will be a good idea or not.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Window done. Came out good i think
> Sorry for the really bad photo. Will try and get some good ones. Need to get myself a camera
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW - When I 1st saw your mod I thought that it was a side panel that you had bought as it looks great. That is a very neat job, I really like it, well done


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> WOW - When I 1st saw your mod I thought that it was a side panel that you had bought as it looks great. That is a very neat job, I really like it, well done


Thanks for the good words:thumb:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> May I ask what you used for the edges of the plexi meeting the metal? Is that some gasket or something? I don't know what its called... so I don't know what to ask for in stores.


Its called U-channel. It goes round the hole to neaten the edge. I got mine at chilled pc UK.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanP*
> 
> my gtx 690's vents out heat both ways, so i was wondering turning the front case fans from intake to exhaust will be a good idea or not.


I just would try it out with for example the Heaven Benchmark.

With my Zotac GTX 570 (custom cooler) I´ve tried it and came to the conclusion that the temperature difference is just in a margin of error (between 2 or 3 Degrees), but I do not know if it makes a big difference with dual GPU.

If you would try it, I would be really interested in your results.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanP*
> 
> my gtx 690's vents out heat both ways, so i was wondering turning the front case fans from intake to exhaust will be a good idea or not.


Doesnt sound that good me... Maybe intake bottom, side and bottom-front while exhaust rear and rearmost top?


----------



## Bill Owen

"DiRT Showdown" PC build with Fractal-design Define R3


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> "DiRT Showdown" PC build with Fractal-design Define R3










....._Absolutely & positively *AWESOME*_


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Let me e-mail the rep I spoke with and see if he would be okay accepting direct inquiries from members of OCN.


did you ever hear back? i haven't ever gotten a word back.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Let me e-mail the rep I spoke with and see if he would be okay accepting direct inquiries from members of OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> did you ever hear back? i haven't ever gotten a word back.
Click to expand...

No, I didn't get a reply.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> "DiRT Showdown" PC build with Fractal-design Define R3


I dunno.......kinda ugly and looks especially "gaudy".

All that crap they attached to the case...... don't do nothing.

Not doing Fractal any favors by posting that mess.

_[but that's just my opinion]_


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I dunno.......kinda ugly and looks especially "gaudy".
> All that crap they attached to the case...... don't do nothing.
> Not doing Fractal any favors by posting that mess.
> _[but that's just my opinion]_


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I dunno.......kinda ugly and looks especially "gaudy".
> All that crap they attached to the case...... don't do nothing.
> Not doing Fractal any favors by posting that mess.
> _[but that's just my opinion]_


hey! that was supposed to be my comment, but you've said it all pretty much. quite an ugly mod.


----------



## robertparker

I think that's typical of many of Bill's corporate mod's. While I wouldn't want to use it everyday, I appreciate the skill and effort that went into it.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I dunno.......kinda ugly and looks especially "gaudy".
> All that crap they attached to the case...... don't do nothing.
> Not doing Fractal any favors by posting that mess.
> _[but that's just my opinion]_


----------



## Blizlake

The R3 looks awesome in orange though


----------



## Charlie--

Well I was going to post some new photos of the work I had done but I had an issue with the Bitfenix 24-pin ATA Sleeved extension I had bought a few weeks back. I fitted it to the motherboard and to the existing PSU ATX connector fine the 1st time, all looking good. However I needed to unplug it (from the PSU connector, not mobo) and when I tried to plug it back it just would not connect together, then one of the wires fell out and 2 of the cables the braiding has come away from inside the socket too.

I'm really hacked off about this as the extension was not cheap and it was fallen apart already. I'm not sure I can return it to SpecialTech as I have had it for 30 days, is there a Bitfenix rep on this forum that could help. Or have I just wasted £10 on a part that I can not use?

Cheers


----------



## Blizlake

Yeah, PM xbournex about it. Sounds like it was faulty product.


----------



## xbournex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Well I was going to post some new photos of the work I had done but I had an issue with the Bitfenix 24-pin ATA Sleeved extension I had bought a few weeks back. I fitted it to the motherboard and to the existing PSU ATX connector fine the 1st time, all looking good. However I needed to unplug it (from the PSU connector, not mobo) and when I tried to plug it back it just would not connect together, then one of the wires fell out and 2 of the cables the braiding has come away from inside the socket too.
> I'm really hacked off about this as the extension was not cheap and it was fallen apart already. I'm not sure I can return it to SpecialTech as I have had it for 30 days, is there a Bitfenix rep on this forum that could help. Or have I just wasted £10 on a part that I can not use?
> Cheers


Looking for a BitFenix Rep on a Fractal thread... Yeah, I don't see one... Maybe try contacting Bitfenix? They have contact info on their site...


----------



## Charlie--

Cheers @Blizlake @xbournex for your help, yep not the best place for me to have posted my question sorry, I was just still seeing red - Good news tho' just got a reply back from Specialtech and they have issued a RMA for a replacement - Shame this has happened, never mind just means a delay in the re-build and going to wait and see if the replacement one is ok before I order other extension cables.


----------



## jvkua

I finally have an FD case! It's my first time doing cable management though, so don't blame on me if it sucks


----------



## bobwas4




----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I dunno.......kinda ugly and looks especially "gaudy".
> All that crap they attached to the case...... don't do nothing.
> Not doing Fractal any favors by posting that mess.
> _[but that's just my opinion]_


I agree, kinda takes fractals simpler and sleeker look and throws it out the door.


----------



## johnnyli

My 24hr download machine..... Built end of last year...


----------



## bobwas4

ya see thats decent form and function. thats what i like. rather than making it look super tidy but with no components etc etc. something with a decent amount of hd space etc etc, i mean i use mine for everything. gaming, photo editing downloading you name it it handles it. nice build dude


----------



## shogrran

Heres my arc midi. I'll post a pic of the insides sometime when I get a new video card


















I seriously need help with the cable management of my arc midi. It's the first time I'm dealing with cable management as before I didn't realize there were benefits in doing cable management and I only had a cheap case with no cable management option anyway. I did store the cables neatly before but as neatly as I would like now.

I am using a seasonic x 560 psu, and the thing is... I still have IDE drives -- remnants from my very first computer and they still work. You guys know how expensive HDDs became after the Thailand crisis and since then I haven't really put my mind and efforts into replacing them. I did eventually (had my sister) buy a 1TB WD Caviar Blue drive which will come later this year but until then. IDE is going to be one major pain in my OC-ass.

I am confused by the cables provided by seasonic and many other powersupplies... why is the sata powercable set up that way? That you need to connect them upside down so that you can have them in chain....


----------



## LiquidHaus

hey guys i gotta quick question about the Arc Mini. with a little bit of modification, would it be possible to place a 360 radiator in the top panel? i've seen many 240 radiators but i'd like to run a 360 radiator. please let me know what would have to be done, thank you!

im curious but it looks like the radiators are wider than the 5.25" bay is..which would eliminate that idea of running a 360..but please let me know thank you!


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> hey guys i gotta quick question about the Arc Mini. with a little bit of modification, would it be possible to place a 360 radiator in the top panel? i've seen many 240 radiators but i'd like to run a 360 radiator. please let me know what would have to be done, thank you!
> im curious but it looks like the radiators are wider than the 5.25" bay is..which would eliminate that idea of running a 360..but please let me know thank you!


I have a 360 rad in my Arc Midi. I just drilled out the optical bays and used the 240 rad mounting holes. Mini needs a lot more modding 'cause the top grill is shorter (for 240).


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> im curious but it looks like the radiators are wider than the 5.25" bay is..which would eliminate that idea of running a 360..but please let me know thank you!


the width isn't really the problem for the ODD cage. center mounting the radiator in
the roof, presents motherboard issues. a thin radiator and a fan set limits the height
of RAM and MOSFET sinks. 30-35mm plus a 25mm fan makes a 70mm drop. check
and verify your mobo for clearance. removing the ODD cage will allow the radiator to
be offset with mods to the roof panel for the 3rd fan and you can increase the radiator
thickness (best solution) to 45-60mm or more fans with no mobo issues.
if you don't wanna hack up the mini case, use dual thick 240 radiators and go with it.

airdeano


----------



## AbdullahG

I may order an I5 3570K with an AsRock Z77 Extreme4-M today, and maybe a new GPU. I will post pics if I can when I upgrade.


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> Heres my arc midi. I'll post a pic of the insides sometime when I get a new video card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously need help with the cable management of my arc midi. It's the first time I'm dealing with cable management as before I didn't realize there were benefits in doing cable management and I only had a cheap case with no cable management option anyway. I did store the cables neatly before but as neatly as I would like now.
> I am using a seasonic x 560 psu, and the thing is... I still have IDE drives -- remnants from my very first computer and they still work. You guys know how expensive HDDs became after the Thailand crisis and since then I haven't really put my mind and efforts into replacing them. I did eventually (had my sister) buy a 1TB WD Caviar Blue drive which will come later this year but until then. IDE is going to be one major pain in my OC-ass.
> I am confused by the cables provided by seasonic and many other powersupplies... why is the sata powercable set up that way? That you need to connect them upside down so that you can have them in chain....


As I write this I have already removed the two IDE drives I have. LOL. My OC-Ness wouldn't let me sleep knowing that ugly IDE cable was there inside the case.

Guys need further help here....Is there a sata power cable extension that is sata to sata?


----------



## valkeriefire

Does anyone know a place to buy a Fractal R3 White? I ordered one from a place called Costcaptain.com (they had a low price and had a few decent reviews (200+) but they are a small unknown company). Newegg won't even let you be notified when it is in stock again.

Did Fractal discontinue it, or is it so good it is just hard to find? Costcaptain states it will ship this Wednesday per the manufacturer, and I hope that is true.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> Does anyone know a place to buy a Fractal R3 White? I ordered one from a place called Costcaptain.com (they had a low price and had a few decent reviews (200+) but they are a small unknown company). Newegg won't even let you be notified when it is in stock again.
> Did Fractal discontinue it, or is it so good it is just hard to find? Costcaptain states it will ship this Wednesday per the manufacturer, and I hope that is true.
> Thanks in advance.


Newegg just marks things as discontinued when they don't have a solid date for when the next shipment will come in. If you wait a day or so it'll normally go back up though.


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> I have a 360 rad in my Arc Midi. I just drilled out the optical bays and used the 240 rad mounting holes. Mini needs a lot more modding 'cause the top grill is shorter (for 240).


what do you mean by "drilled out the optical bays"?
im not afraid of modding as that is the fun part to me lol but i plan on putting the cd drive in the lower slot, not the upper, so it can accommodate the 360.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> the width isn't really the problem for the ODD cage. center mounting the radiator in
> the roof, presents motherboard issues. a thin radiator and a fan set limits the height
> of RAM and MOSFET sinks. 30-35mm plus a 25mm fan makes a 70mm drop. check
> and verify your mobo for clearance. removing the ODD cage will allow the radiator to
> be offset with mods to the roof panel for the 3rd fan and you can increase the radiator
> thickness (best solution) to 45-60mm or more fans with no mobo issues.
> if you don't wanna hack up the mini case, use dual thick 240 radiators and go with it.
> airdeano


the only reason i am talking about the 360 rad is because i already have one. i have an extra 360 and an extra 120 rad to use on a build for my friend that i'll be doing somewhat soon here, and i really liked the look of the arc mini, plus its a really small form factor that i can get some good looks out of. i'll be cooling an i3 and a 550ti so the 360 rad will be plenty for those two. (i realize neither one create that much heat but im mainly doing it for noise purposes)

pretty much all im asking, is if you took everything out of the case, brand new, and then proceeded to mount a 360 radiator at the top, would it fit? never mind about fans right now, i just would like to know if the 360 will fit.

thanks guys


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> what do you mean by "drilled out the optical bays"?
> im not afraid of modding as that is the fun part to me lol but i plan on putting the cd drive in the lower slot, not the upper, so it can accommodate the 360.


Hmmm but I think he drilled it out because the size of the 360 rad will not fit in snugly in the slot of the CD drive. Besides, there's still needed space for the fan right? Or I maybe wrong ...


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> As I write this I have already removed the two IDE drives I have. LOL. My OC-Ness wouldn't let me sleep knowing that ugly IDE cable was there inside the case.
> Guys need further help here....Is there a sata power cable extension that is sata to sata?


Yes there are many cables available like that (& molex to sata power too), here are some examples of sata to sata power extension cables.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lifeisshort117*
> 
> what do you mean by "drilled out the optical bays"?
> im not afraid of modding as that is the fun part to me lol but i plan on putting the cd drive in the lower slot, not the upper, so it can accommodate the 360.
> the only reason i am talking about the 360 rad is because i already have one. i have an extra 360 and an extra 120 rad to use on a build for my friend that i'll be doing somewhat soon here, and i really liked the look of the arc mini, plus its a really small form factor that i can get some good looks out of. i'll be cooling an i3 and a 550ti so the 360 rad will be plenty for those two.pretty much all im asking, is if you took everything out of the case, brand new, and then proceeded to mount a 360 radiator at the top, would it fit? never mind about fans right now, i just would like to know if the 360 will fit.


the opti-bays are held into the chassis with rivets. a 1/4" drill bit in a drill can remove them easily.
drill into the hole of the shoulder on the rivet. i think there are 7 to be removed (three in front and two
on each upper rail).
the 360 will fit, but you'll have to make provisions for the most forward fan position of radiator an opening
to allow air to pass through radiator. but if you are going to use an opti-drive, then the 360 is out.. unless you
use an external USB cd/dvd. there isnt enough room for fan and rad and opti-drive. maybe a slim maybe.. just maybe
if all you have is a quad i3 and 550ti, then a 240rx would be fine. sell your rads and incorporate the new 240.

airdeano


----------



## LiquidHaus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> the opti-bays are held into the chassis with rivets. a 1/4" drill bit in a drill can remove them easily.
> drill into the hole of the shoulder on the rivet. i think there are 7 to be removed (three in front and two
> on each upper rail).
> the 360 will fit, but you'll have to make provisions for the most forward fan position of radiator an opening
> to allow air to pass through radiator. but if you are going to use an opti-drive, then the 360 is out.. unless you
> use an external USB cd/dvd. there isnt enough room for fan and rad and opti-drive. maybe a slim maybe.. just maybe
> if all you have is a quad i3 and 550ti, then a 240rx would be fine. sell your rads and incorporate the new 240.
> airdeano


first of all thank you, i really appreciate the help.

on selling the 360 it'd be easier said than done, its a swiftech mcr320 360 rad, so its pretty slim. what i would want to do is run only 2 fans on it, not 3, so that the cd drive can still fit in the lower tray. the rad is 34mm thick, any way you could measure and see if it'd fit and clear the cd drive?

i know how to drill the rivets out on cases (you should check out my build log) but i'd prefer not to disassemble a customers case, i'd rather just make due with what i have to save him/me money. external cd drive is out too.


----------



## airdeano

you are welcome,
ive got the same swiftech radiator and moving to a XSPC RX360 for my Midi.
then you need to find a 600t owner needing a radiator then. 'cuz you will have
to hack on that case to make it fit and function properly. or H100 time...

airdeano


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Yes there are many cables available like that (& molex to sata power too), here are some examples of sata to sata power extension cables.


Ahh why are the good stuff all hard to find from where I come from.

If only I can find someone who knows how to make these cables from scratch here.


----------



## Moneo

I just switched from a HAF 922 to the Define Mini, it's an amazing case.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> I dunno.......kinda ugly and looks especially "gaudy".
> All that crap they attached to the case...... don't do nothing.
> Not doing Fractal any favors by posting that mess.
> _[but that's just my opinion]_


Agreed. For me, the beauty of Fractal cases are their understated elegance and simplicity. I just don't get the desire to trick them out...and this may be the worst such example that I have seen.

Oh well, different strokes.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scuba Steve in VA*
> 
> Agreed. For me, the beauty of Fractal cases are their understated elegance s.


Oh yeah.....

Thats why I was attracted to the mini. Simply , slabs of plain ole black .
No freakin lights,windows or other gimmicky stuff. Its whats going on in the inside ......is all im concered with.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> I just switched from a HAF 922 to the Define Mini, it's an amazing case.


Really clean build, like I would expect from a Fractal build. The color sceme matshes perfectly FD








Btw the 670 looks incredible! The count of HDDs just shows perfectly how you can build a crazy gaming mashine with stupidly many drives in a tiny case which is still brilliantly ventilated.
Have fun with it.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> I just switched from a HAF 922 to the Define Mini, it's an amazing case.http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/932962/width/600/height/450/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice one, absolutely stunning


----------



## Clockdripdoor

I feel that I must post in this thread as I am having Arc Midi withdrawls. My HHG (household goods) were packed up in late April and that meant no Arc Midi for me.

2 more weeks and I should have a new house.

Currently:

Arc Midi
Seasonic Platinum 860w

I modded the case a little bit and I have another mod to do with the lower 5.25" bay.


----------



## stellar

Does anyone know where to pickup the Adjust 108 fan controller? Is it out anywhere yet?


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellar*
> 
> Does anyone know where to pickup the Adjust 108 fan controller? Is it out anywhere yet?


It won't be available for purchase until September:
Quote:


> Fractal Design said that it will begin shipping the Adjust 108 in the beginning of September of this year. The suggested retail price is $34.95.


http://www.tomshardware.com/news/fractal-design-fan-controller-speed,15596.html


----------



## Adrenaline

I have the Core 1000










Spoiler: Core 1000 Pics


----------



## NguyenAdam

I'm going to join the Fractal club soon enough... I just have to find a way to get rid of my case. Shipping rates are ridiculous.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam*
> 
> I'm going to join the Fractal club soon enough... I just have to find a way to get rid of my case. Shipping rates are ridiculous.


I would rather keep the Lian-Li.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I would rather keep the Lian-Li.


agree. good case.


----------



## NguyenAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I would rather keep the Lian-Li.


I'm getting tired of it. I may transition into watercooling in the future, so this case has to go.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> I have the Core 1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Core 1000 Pics


looks great! could you do me a favor, could you measure the size of your side door, i'm curious if the core 1000 and the Mini share a panel.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Having build a few system out of both of those cases i can tell you they are not the same.


----------



## adamraj

Which are some good and quiet fans for the R3?


----------



## Moneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> looks great! could you do me a favor, could you measure the size of your side door, i'm curious if the core 1000 and the Mini share a panel.


I've done a build in the core 1000, and I can assure you they a drastically different in size. In this picture they are even at the back.


----------



## Moneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Really clean build, like I would expect from a Fractal build. The color sceme matshes perfectly FD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw the 670 looks incredible! The count of HDDs just shows perfectly how you can build a crazy gaming mashine with stupidly many drives in a tiny case which is still brilliantly ventilated.
> Have fun with it.


It was really fun to work with, but temperatures are quite high with 6 hard drives. My 2500k @4.6Ghz will hit 66°C and my 670 will top out at 82°C.


----------



## two4teezee

Well I'd like to join the club =D Love this case... couldn't ask for more from mATX. Pictures inside the spoiler! Not the best quality, I'll have to take better ones later.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## juanP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> I just switched from a HAF 922 to the Define Mini, it's an amazing case.


nice clean build


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> I've done a build in the core 1000, and I can assure you they a drastically different in size. In this picture they are even at the back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


thanks for checking guys. i have been wanting another side panel, and was willing to buy a core 1000 just to get it (i've email FD numerous times, and never gotten a response). looks like i'll just have to wait to see if they ever release just parts. wonder if the core 3000 is the same, looks closer by the measurements,


----------



## Theloudtrout

Nope. Fractal design are not cooler-master. xD


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> It was really fun to work with, but temperatures are quite high with 6 hard drives. My 2500k @4.6Ghz will hit 66°C and my 670 will top out at 82°C.


Yeah that´s the compromises with many HDD´s.......
When I used my R3 with many Drives and a GTX 570 + Q6600 @3,0GHZ I just put 2 120´s on the back of the HDD cage for making a "push-pull" to improve the Airflow which is coming throw....
If you have some 140 or 120 laying around may give it a try









Edit: Something like this:


----------



## Theloudtrout

Why not reverse the airflow then to blow out the front ? hard drives don't need that much cooling as long as they have a steady flow of air they should be fine


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> Why not reverse the airflow then to blow out the front ? hard drives don't need that much cooling as long as they have a steady flow of air they should be fine


If you mean making the top fans an Intake and the front fans an exhaust (?) I personally would not do that because heat rises and in my testing ( a year ago with a TT V3 Black Edition, Skythe Mugen 2 PushPull a GTX 460 and some Slip Steam Fans taking air in from the top) it was worse than before because the top intake blew in the Mugen and destroyed its airflow.....

I don´t know if its the same with Moneo`s cooler.

For beeing proof I would test it anyway.


----------



## Moneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> Why not reverse the airflow then to blow out the front ? hard drives don't need that much cooling as long as they have a steady flow of air they should be fine


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I am going to test out two Coolermaster R4s in the front on a fan controller, and the HDDs in the top caddy are a measly 200gb each. I'm panning on getting another single 1tb caviar black to get rid of them.
> 
> Yeah that´s the compromises with many HDD´s.......
> When I used my R3 with many Drives and a GTX 570 + Q6600 @3,0GHZ I just put 2 120´s on the back of the HDD cage for making a "push-pull" to improve the Airflow which is coming throw....
> If you have some 140 or 120 laying around may give it a try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Something like this:


I can't fit them in snug enough because of my 24pin/6pins and because of my sata cables.


----------



## Theloudtrout

What i meant is to reverse the fans on the back, the front/hard drive bays and the cpu cooler to all blow to the front of the case and leaving the top fans as they are as.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> I can't fit them in snug enough because of my 24pin/6pins and because of my sata cables.


I would try Theloudtrout`s idea....
Which also prevent you from dustrings at the frontpannel.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> What i meant is to reverse the fans on the back, the front/hard drive bays and the cpu cooler to all blow to the front of the case and leaving the top fans as they are as.


Now I know what you mean


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Yeah that´s the compromises with many HDD´s.......
> When I used my R3 with many Drives and a GTX 570 + Q6600 @3,0GHZ I just put 2 120´s on the back of the HDD cage for making a "push-pull" to improve the Airflow which is coming throw....
> If you have some 140 or 120 laying around may give it a try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for the idea, I think I will give that a try with the Arc







- How did you fix the fan on the HDD bay (I can not see any cable-ties or screws/bolts etc. in the photo)? P.S. What make of fan is it too?


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *two4teezee*
> 
> Well I'd like to join the club =D Love this case... couldn't ask for more from mATX. Pictures inside the spoiler! Not the best quality, I'll have to take better ones later.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you show us how you put the leds in the mesh fan controller?


----------



## allenkane

New build... nothing special. Thinking about removing the bottom HDD cage since I only have 1 SSD in it. Rather mount the extra 120mm there rather than at the bottom.

Might also get a passive Thermalright HR-02 CPU cooler. The H60 is a little bit loud for my liking, considering I don't really need to OC.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allenkane*
> 
> New build... nothing special. Thinking about removing the bottom HDD cage since I only have 1 SSD in it. Rather mount the extra 120mm there rather than at the bottom.
> Might also get a passive Thermalright HR-02 CPU cooler. The H60 is a little bit loud for my liking, considering I don't really need to OC.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean Jop









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Thanks for the idea, I think I will give that a try with the Arc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - How did you fix the fan on the HDD bay (I can not see any cable-ties or screws/bolts etc. in the photo)? P.S. What make of fan is it too?


I have fixed it in the R3 with some zip ties and in the moment I got the fan just standing there because I´m still not finished with building.......
But I propably will screw the fan just in (throw the ottom of the case where the 140 / 120 meant to be mounted).
I need to try out which is the best way to do.

I will give you an update when I´m finished with my build


----------



## dhughesuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allenkane*
> 
> Might also get a passive Thermalright HR-02 CPU cooler. The H60 is a little bit loud for my liking, considering I don't really need to OC.


It's the fan, it's not very quite at all, change the fan for two quite ones and it will be silent, I have a Noiseblocker PL2 on a 5v resistor and a PL1 straight to the MB header and I can't hear a thing.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> Can you show us how you put the leds in the mesh fan controller?


That fan controller comes with the LED's (seven colour choices) in already. Lamptron Fan Controller FC9


----------



## allenkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> Clean Jop


Thanks. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna remove the bottom HDD cage and re-do the cables while I'm at it. Could barely get the back panel on









Thinking about buying something like this too: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992007 :>
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhughesuk*
> It's the fan, it's not very quite at all, change the fan for two quite ones and it will be silent, I have a Noiseblocker PL2 on a 5v resistor and a PL1 straight to the MB header and I can't hear a thing.


That does seem to be the culprit. I'll see about getting some new fans. Thanks


----------



## bortoloj

Here is my front panel mod


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Here is my front panel mod


Looks awesome great job!


----------



## bortoloj

In the night













The Silverstone Ap121 Red


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> In the night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Silverstone Ap121 Red


Very nice. Like what you've done here:thumb:


----------



## AbdullahG

Order the following parts:
-i5 3570K
-ASRock Extreme4-M
-PNY 8GB RAM @ 1600MHz
-PNY GTX 470 (Used; was limited by budget and had to find an older gen, used GPU to be able to upgrade from my HD 6750)

I'm a bit concerned about the GTX 470 (PNY Enthusiast Edition), as the GTX 400 series Fermi runs hot. I probably won't overclock it though. At 1600x900, it should max any game w/o overclocking lol. I was originally thinking about an HD 5850/70, but I figured with my horrid experience with AMD drivers in the past and the inability to actually find one as cheap as the GTX 470 (barely cost $100), it didn't seem likely. The parts should all arrive by Monday (not sure about the GPU). I will post pictures when the parts arrive.


----------



## Lethal Squirrel

Here's my core 1000 =)





It's in my bathroom because it was the best lighting at the time, before you ask ;P


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lethal Squirrel*
> 
> Here's my core 1000 =)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's in my bathroom because it was the best lighting at the time, before you ask ;P


Looks great, top job you have done there. I really like it and the cover over the HDD's








- The one thing I would do is just snip the excess on the white zip-tie by the PSU a bit shorter (sorry my OCD on tidy cables there.)


----------



## albmanzi

Hi guys! Great thread and so many amazing builds here!







I've been planning my new rig with a Core 3000 since last month, and today it's here!!
As this is my first build, I have a problem that most of you will find noobish probably: to use the lower front bay with or without the 3.5" adapter... do i have to break it's metal cover?
It's one piece with the rest of the frame so I don't know what to do with that :/


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albmanzi*
> 
> It's one piece with the rest of the frame so I don't know what to do with that :/


Yeah just break it.









I also have the Core 3000 BTW, be sure to post pics of your build !


----------



## albmanzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I also have the Core 3000 BTW, be sure to post pics of your build !


Sure! Anyway it will be just a standard air cooled mid-range build ...nothing compared to the gems i've seen here


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lethal Squirrel*
> 
> Here's my core 1000
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that looks clean and fresh, but i gotta wonder about those GPU temps. they have no air to speak of for cooling.
but still a great build.

airdeano


----------



## Charlie--

I have just been doing the cable management on my Arc Midi and have a semi modular PSU, the front is looking fairly tidy so is the back (the back is almost full tho'). I really take my hat off to neat builds by others that have Core 1000. I must be either bad at cable management or just too OCD about it


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> that looks clean and fresh, but i gotta wonder about those GPU temps. they have no air to speak of for cooling.
> but still a great build.
> airdeano


It looks like the cards angle up at the back to allow for airflow. So long as he has a strong front fan, it shouldn't be too bad. It looks awesome fwiw.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Here is my Core 1000. It was a neat case when it was a HTPC but now its been converted into my workhorse (The server) with a few modifications, It ain't pretty but it gets the job done ! xD


Spoiler: Pictures inside


----------



## AbdullahG

A strange flock of Core 1000s are gathering...


----------



## Kaneda13

Took the case into work today and dusted it out, so nice and clean...


----------



## Gama360

new cable management, let me know what you think about that








and a new cpu cooler, its pine for me i dont oc that machine anyway


----------



## stevman17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> A strange flock of Core 1000s are gathering...


It's $40 and looks good.


----------



## lurker2501

NCIX.com is giving a Fractal Design ARC MIDI case for free. Click on the picture below to enter:


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevman17*
> 
> It's $40 and looks good.


I know, I have one. Just didn't expect to find it used for a build very often with the Arc and Define available.


----------



## Lethal Squirrel

Thanks for all the feedback guys! =D
And to those wondering, the bottom card idles at around 50, and the top around 40.
at max load the bottom is round 80, and the top is around 70.
There is no AC in my house though so room temperature is about 80-85F


----------



## surfbumb

teaser...cooler installed.


----------



## AbdullahG

Woah...that's a nice tree in the background...

The PC looks nice too...


----------



## squirly

I built my rig back in February, and have been trolling this forum since before then.... I absolutely LOVE the case! Had a killer time assembling my rig, with help from both my wife (helping me line up my Cooler Master 212) and my 1 1/2 year old daughter (sitting on my lap and holding the motherboard book), plus it was taco night so multiple margaritas helped along the process of running wires and W7 install.... Killer case, I get questions and compliments very often regarding it. As far as mods, I have not done anything outside of filling most of the fan slots with NZXT 140mm fans. I want to watercool my 7950 and i5 but am somewhat leaning towards crossfiring the 7950 instead, as I don't have much overclocking going on and even under full load my cpu sits around 60C.


----------



## squirly

Anyone else have a non modular PSU in their case? If so, I'm curious to see how you routed your cables... I think I did well on mine, but I'm still not 100% satisfied...


----------



## squirly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> teaser...cooler installed.


I am jealous of those Noctua fans and coolers, they are incredible! I just wish they offered some color schemes... If they had a black+white, I would be all over that ****! Great looking rig!


----------



## jvkua

I finally got a Core 3000, and and decided to reorganize my cabling.


----------



## squirly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> 
> I finally got a Core 3000, and and decided to reorganize my cabling.


Looks good! I'm still debating whether to throw my middle HD cage back in or not... The open space for airflow is good but I feel like its empty... Not sure how the airflow will change from the front of the case with it in there.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squirly*
> 
> The open space for airflow is good but I feel like its empty... Not sure how the airflow will change from the front of the case with it in there.


it turns it into pure crap with OE fractal fans. the R2 or more powerful fans make a difference. im gunna fix
mine real good with no HDD cages and fill that "empty" look with alphacools (no monstas). just gotta get
all the review data and boo-yaaa.. swimming in mayhem..

airdeano


----------



## jvkua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squirly*
> 
> Looks good! I'm still debating whether to throw my middle HD cage back in or not... The open space for airflow is good but I feel like its empty... Not sure how the airflow will change from the front of the case with it in there.


I put it there since I routed my PCI power and Sata cables through there, to make it look neater







at the same time, it let me store the cables in the lower cages since the core 3000 won't really let me hide my cables in the back.


----------



## albmanzi

Here it is! My first build, completed!



















In the second pic there's the predecessor in the background, a scaleo p.... lol

Please forgive me for the floating molex connection, the fan controller cables are too short to route them behind the board!









Let me know what you think and suggest improvements please!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> I put it there since I routed my PCI power and Sata cables through there, to make it look neater
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the same time, it let me store the cables in the lower cages since the core 3000 won't really let me hide my cables in the back.


yeah, routing all the cables behind the motherboard is quite difficult in the 3000, there's so little space.... but if you arrange the cables well it's sufficient to fit everything!


----------



## Lethal Squirrel

Looks nice! but I'm not sure if t hat's the ideal way to mount your CPU cooler


----------



## albmanzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lethal Squirrel*
> 
> Looks nice! but I'm not sure if t hat's the ideal way to mount your CPU cooler


thanks!









noctua nh-u12p se2 manual stated it can be placed one way or the other with no problem, i choosed the vertical exhaust cause the case will have to stay near the wall and it will have little space behind to blow air off.


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albmanzi*
> 
> thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> noctua nh-u12p se2 manual stated it can be placed one way or the other with no problem, i choosed the vertical exhaust cause the case will have to stay near the wall and it will have little space behind to blow air off.


You have to understand though that heat rises, essentially your taking the hot air from your GPU and blowing it across your heatsink if your venting up at the top. I suppose if you have it set to intake from the top blowing down it wouldn't be such a problem. I believe fractal design made the dust filters on the top and at the front because they want their customers to use positive pressure by utilizing the top and front as intakes and the rear as exhaust. This is how I have mine setup. Can't complain about the temps.


----------



## albmanzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> You have to understand though that heat rises, essentially your taking the air from your GPU and blowing it across your heatsink if your venting up at the top. I suppose if you have it set to intake from the top blowing down it wouldn't be such a problem. I believe fractal design made the dust filters on the top and at the front because they want their customers to use positive pressure by utilizing the top and front as intakes and the rear as exhaust. This is how I have mine setup. Can't complain about the temps.


Thanks for sharing your thoughts guys!
At the moment, with 28°C ambient temperature the cpu (i5-2500k not oc'ed) idles at 35-36 that means 7-8°C above ambient... i don't know about full load cause still i haven't installed the OS by now.... when i get all the temps i'll give a try and see if the rear exhaust setup works better!


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> You have to understand though that heat rises, essentially your taking the hot air from your GPU and blowing it across your heatsink if your venting up at the top. I suppose if you have it set to intake from the top blowing down it wouldn't be such a problem. I believe fractal design made the dust filters on the top and at the front because they want their customers to use positive pressure by utilizing the top and front as intakes and the rear as exhaust. This is how I have mine setup. Can't complain about the temps.


And the heatsink wouldn't take any hot air if it were to exhaust through the back, yes?








The difference is so minimal that it isn't worth mentioning


----------



## adridu59

Personally I have succeded to fit all my cables in the back...










Wasn't too easy through.


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> And the heatsink wouldn't take any hot air if it were to exhaust through the back, yes?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The difference is so minimal that it isn't worth mentioning


It will always be minimal as airflow is just that air. By redoing your air configuration you will see at MOST 3 degrees drop in a case. Positive pressure has other benefits as it forces dust out. But back on subject, with his setup he is taking in a concentrated amount of hot air. Through the front is cool, gpu runs hot and mixes with the air from the front, by the time it hits the heat sink its already warm. Turn it to exhaust out the back the air coming from the front only hits HDD as the air is directed across and up. I don't think it was right to say "Its not worth mentioning" because maybe he doesn't know. But sure its so low that I shouldn't have even bothered


----------



## Skrumzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Personally I have succeded to fit all my cables in the back...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't too easy through.


Pretty nice







. I don't have the patience to tidy up the back. If it fits without bowing or bowing too much its good for me =p. Kudos to you.


----------



## kubed_zero

Just finished my WC build! If you want to see more, just go to the build log in my sig.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Pretty nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't have the patience to tidy up the back. If it fits without bowing or bowing too much its good for me =p. Kudos to you.


Thanks, before the Core 3000 I had a crappy generic case with no cable management at all so the 3000 is a breeze to work with in comparison.


----------



## Gama360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gama360*
> 
> new cable management, let me know what you think about that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and a new cpu cooler, its pine for me i dont oc that machine anyway


----------



## shogrran

I got questions regarding the dust rings.

MAIN QUESTION: How do I minimize the dust rings in the filters if not totally get rid of dust rings, while at the same time keep my components clean?

1. I have an arc midi and I here's what I've done so far. I have removed the front fan and connected it at the top. So I have two fans at the top blowing air downwards and a fan at the back blowing air out.

2. I have a cloth on top of the case at all times. I am thinking (in theory) the air that comes into the case via the top will be filtered by the cloth first before it gets to the filters of the case itself therefore the dust wont be able to get to the case filters and I'll have an easy time just taking the cloth out and washing it.

3. I believe though that the cloth is restricting the air that comes into the case via top. Would it make the fans heat up?

What I'm planning to do:

1. I've seen a build here where he took out the filters entirely and just had the mesh in front of the fans. I think that will get rid of the dust rings since there will be nothing to get the dust rings on. But doesn't the dust get into the mesh in that case and therefore make it even harder to clean? Doesn't that make the overall dust build up in the case higher?

I don't always open my case. I just open my case probably once every year at max. Primarily because it's located in a hard to reach area and it is quite heavy. I'd like to have the fewest reasons to open the case as necessary for cleaning.


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gama360*


Is that a AC Alpine 11 cooler?


----------



## jvkua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *albmanzi*
> 
> Here it is! My first build, completed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the second pic there's the predecessor in the background, a scaleo p.... lol
> Please forgive me for the floating molex connection, the fan controller cables are too short to route them behind the board!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think and suggest improvements please!
> yeah, routing all the cables behind the motherboard is quite difficult in the 3000, there's so little space.... but if you arrange the cables well it's sufficient to fit everything!


I fit my fan controller on the bottom most slot, as there is a hole nearby where you can fit the cables in. Either that, or you can sandwich the cables behind the motherboard and pass them through the CPU cutout. Same with the CPU 8pin, but you would need to give it a little slack just so that you would be able to put the 140mm fan on top(you'd have to remove it to fit the 8pin through the back)

You can also pass the blue cable(is that USB3?) through the small cutout on top where the I/O passes.









The core 3000 is was such a fun case to work with, especially when you come from building inside a generic case.


----------



## airdeano

a quickie...
3D carbon wrap on PSU and front panel. roof panel next..
BGears 140 (painted blades), Silverstone 700 with painted fan blade as well...
got more.. but waiting on other stuff...

 
 


airdeano


----------



## Blizlake

As I always suspected, white Arc looks fantastic


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> I got questions regarding the dust rings.
> MAIN QUESTION: How do I minimize the dust rings in the filters if not totally get rid of dust rings, while at the same time keep my components clean?


Well, Fractal cases use foam for filtering which sucks because airflow is reduced a lot and the dust still gets a bit inside the PC.

Regarding filters the best is those in nylon like Silverstones.



Your best bet is to remove or cut a circle of foam in front of each fans (like some have done here) and add nylon filters behind the fans.

Some dust might be on the fan but since they will be directly exposed it will be easy to vacuum them.


----------



## Gama360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Is that a AC Alpine 11 cooler?


Yes.
Perform very well for his low price.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Kinda makes you wish Intel outsourced their coolers to Arctic. xD


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Just finished my WC build! If you want to see more, just go to the build log in my sig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


like your loop except for the ugly res that kinda spoils it for me.


----------



## kubed_zero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> like your loop except for the ugly res that kinda spoils it for me.


What's wrong with it? Not to be aggressive, I'm just curious what you see in it that you don't like.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> As I always suspected, white Arc looks fantastic


yes, i believe so.. i should have the roof and side panel done, soon. the display side panel will
prolly be like Ramsey glass panel.

airdeano


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> the display side panel will
> prolly be like Ramsey glass panel.
> 
> airdeano


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> What's wrong with it? Not to be aggressive, I'm just curious what you see in it that you don't like.


nothing wrong with it, it's just my taste in hardware. i prefer bay res over separate ones.


----------



## kubed_zero

No room left in the bays, otherwise I would've done that!


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gama360*
> 
> Yes.
> Perform very well for his low price.


Alright sweet. Been thinking about buying one


----------



## nvidia3




----------



## Blizlake

A crappy teaser of what I'm currently working on


----------



## adridu59

Guys, any of you knows if its worth to replace front foam (on my Core 3000) with aluminium dust filters ?

Thanks.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Guys, any of you knows if its worth to replace front foam (on my Core 3000) with aluminium dust filters ?
> Thanks.


Something like the silverstone dust filters are better if that's what you mean


----------



## jvkua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Guys, any of you knows if its worth to replace front foam (on my Core 3000) with aluminium dust filters ?
> Thanks.


The foam dust filters that FD uses isn't really good. It restricts the airflow... and I'm not sure, but isn't foam harder to clean than aluminum?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Guys, any of you knows if its worth to replace front foam (on my Core 3000) with aluminium dust filters ?
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The foam dust filters that FD uses isn't really good. It restricts the airflow... and I'm not sure, but isn't foam harder to clean than aluminum?
Click to expand...

Yeah the foam lets more dust in, is more restrictive and is indeed harder to clean







(IMO)


----------



## adridu59

Just checked other forums and I think that pantyhose DIY filters could be good while having very slight airflow restriction... any thoughts ?


----------



## Blizlake

Yeah, I've seen lots of peeps use that kinda filters. Just pick black ones, don't think tan-colored will be good unless you're rocking Noctuas


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Just pick black ones, don't think tan-colored will be good unless you're rocking Noctuas


Here's an advice.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Just pick black ones, don't think tan-colored will be good unless you're rocking Noctuas


but hey dont do anything for my outfit and they make my green eys look gothic!...
use a fresh pair (not the used ones) of nude panty hose... and you can use the
filter to the rear of the fan... so you dont have to see the filter...

airdeano


----------



## axipher

Amazing cases everyone 

Here's my latest picture from the OCN LAN Event in Toronto, ON.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> but hey dont do anything for my outfit and they make my green eys look gothic!...


I didn't understand this sentence... but yeah I'm going to place filters on the rear of the fans so that I can see them.


----------



## AbdullahG

Look at what came today (warning: cellphone pic + horrible camera skills):


----------



## allenkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Just checked other forums and I think that pantyhose DIY filters could be good while having very slight airflow restriction... any thoughts ?


I used them on my last case. Definitely way better than the filters provided with most cases. Hardly any airflow restriction and catch way more dust.

You'll need to vacuum them pretty often (at least once a month in my case) because they catch so much dust.


----------



## adridu59

Cool thanks for the info !


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## xILukasIx

Hey guys, I got a question for you,

Will a Point of View GTX 580 fit into a Core 1000?
There's only going to be a single SSD in the case, no other drives.
I'm thinking about doing a small build to use for my other place, I still have a Q6600 lying around and µATX-boards for that socket are not very expensive.
Thinking about the Asrock G41MH/USB3 R2.0, it's 55€ here.

Also, what (inexpensive) PSU would you recommend for that build if the GTX 580 fits into the Core 1000?
Otherwise I will just go with the Core 3000.


----------



## adridu59

A Q6600 will bottleneck.


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> A Q6600 will bottleneck.


I'm going to use the second GTX580 from my current rig, so the only things I need to buy are a motherboard, a CPU cooler and some RAM.
Give me a cheaper alternative to that and I sure will do it!
Also, that was not point of my question, I know that already


----------



## Theloudtrout

To be honest as long as you get that Q6600 clocked over 3 Ghz then i doubt that it will bottleneck it that badly anyway assuming that your running a normal setup ie 1920x1080 @ 60 fps.


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> To be honest as long as you get that Q6600 clocked over 3 Ghz then i doubt that it will bottleneck it that badly anyway assuming that your running a normal setup ie 1920x1080 @ 60 fps.


Pretty sure that's not going to be that big of an issue, I'm mostly playing in windowed mode like 1600x900 though.
I'm not that much of a hardcore gamer either, I'll maybe play Borderlands 1 and 2 on it, once it gets released.
Shouldn't be really a problem to get 60FPS in these games.

Also, I didn't want to know wether the Q6600 bottlenecks anything at all :-D
I just want to know if the GTX580 can fit into a Core 1000 and what PSU fits in there aswell.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Yeah a GTX 580 will fit in there fine i saw a HD 5970 in one at a recent lan party and that is a much bigger card.


----------



## surfbumb

cable routing behind the mobo tray was a pain...but I'm happy the way it turned out...will update once i get a gfx card.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> cable routing behind the mobo tray was a pain...but I'm happy the way it turned out...will update once i get a gfx card.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean, good work.

On a side note, those are some good photos


----------



## AbdullahG

After reading that picture taking guide here on OCN, I put what I learned to the test.
Just a few pics:





Once I get the GPU, I'll post the final build pictures.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> To be honest as long as you get that Q6600 clocked over 3 Ghz then i doubt that it will bottleneck it that badly anyway assuming that your running a normal setup ie 1920x1080 @ 60 fps.


Sure it will. People with Q9550 and such have non-negligible bottleneck already.


----------



## Blizlake

A Q6600 will bottleneck a 580, yeah. But how much, that depends on the game. BF3 for example loves CPU power, so the bottleneck would be more obvious there than on some game that doesn't use CPU as much.
But whether it bottlenecks or not wasn't the question, was it?


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> But whether it bottlenecks or not wasn't the question, was it?


It sure wasn't.
Give me a better alternative which costs no more than 100$ (including a new motherboard, CPU and RAM) and we will talk.
For now, I'm fine with my Q6600 for which I only need to buy a new motherboard. (Or I'll just use my P5N32-SLI SE Deluxe)


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> But whether it bottlenecks or not wasn't the question, was it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sure wasn't.
> Give me a better alternative which costs no more than 100$ (including a new motherboard, CPU and RAM) and we will talk.
> For now, I'm fine with my Q6600 for which I only need to buy a new motherboard. (Or I'll just use my P5N32-SLI SE Deluxe)
Click to expand...

I didn't mean that it's a bad option







If you OC the puppy a few hundred mhz, it would be fine for gaming









In other news: got my Arc Mini finished (for now)!








More pics can be found from the log on my sig


----------



## albmanzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I didn't mean that it's a bad option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you OC the puppy a few hundred mhz, it would be fine for gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news: got my Arc Mini finished (for now)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics can be found from the log on my sig


cool! I love the orange and black contrast


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> But whether it bottlenecks or not wasn't the question, was it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It sure wasn't.
> Give me a better alternative which costs no more than 100$ (including a new motherboard, CPU and RAM) and we will talk.
> For now, I'm fine with my Q6600 for which I only need to buy a new motherboard. (Or I'll just use my P5N32-SLI SE Deluxe)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I didn't mean that it's a bad option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you OC the puppy a few hundred mhz, it would be fine for gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news: got my Arc Mini finished (for now)!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics can be found from the log on my sig
Click to expand...

Looks amazing man


----------



## Theloudtrout

Quote:


> (Or I'll just use my P5N32-SLI SE Deluxe)


The P5N32-SLI SE Deluxe might work the Q6600 but it is not on the CPU support list. I tried it with a Q8400 and it would not have any of it.


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> (Or I'll just use my P5N32-SLI SE Deluxe)
> 
> 
> 
> The P5N32-SLI SE Deluxe might work the Q6600 but it is not on the CPU support list. I tried it with a Q8400 and it would not have any of it.
Click to expand...

I already know it works, I used it for 2 years that way 
Had to update the BIOS and everything was fine.

I think I'm going to get the Core 3000, I might use the Core 1000 for a later build


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I didn't mean that it's a bad option
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you OC the puppy a few hundred mhz, it would be fine for gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In other news: got my Arc Mini finished (for now)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics can be found from the log on my sig


I am a little confused, is there a version of the ARC Mini that has the PSU mounted above the MB? I have the same case and mine is on the bottom.

Case switched later in the build log. I see now.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I am a little confused, is there a version of the ARC Mini that has the PSU mounted above the MB? I have the same case and mine is on the bottom.
> Case switched later in the build log. I see now.


lol yeah, it used to be a core 1000 build log









Any of you Arc Mini owners realized that the ODD bay thumbscrews fit in the 8 small holes in the front of the case? Just thinking if the holes have some purpose I haven't been informed of. Dunno if other Fractal cases have the same holes...
The holes in question:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I am a little confused, is there a version of the ARC Mini that has the PSU mounted above the MB? I have the same case and mine is on the bottom.
> Case switched later in the build log. I see now.


----------



## Ramsey77

Update on the side panel. A vertical retention system for my glass panel.









The Bits (1/8th plastic spacers, 1/8th longer bolts):









Notice the feat aren't set parallel to one another. One leg has to be a bit longer.


----------



## adridu59

Hi all, I am in the process of modding my Core 3000 front panel and have 2 questions...



I'd like to get rid of the foam in front of the fans. I think I'm gonna do circular holes.









1. If I try to unbend the metal mesh (in order to unmount the front panel), will it break ? I know that thin layer of metal usually doesn't like to be bent a couple of times...

2. Shall I cut the plastic frame ? ekg84 has done it in his front panel mod but I'm afraid of rendering the panel weak a bit...

Any thoughts ? Thank you !


----------



## n0n44m

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*


haha the side panels are the XL's best feature for sure







(although it kinda needs it as well because the main chassis without panels isn't that stiff)

by the way have you guys seen my build log ? not too much XLs around here










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> In other news: got my Arc Mini finished (for now)!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics can be found from the log on my sig


as a Dutchman I applaud your choice in colors


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Update on the side panel.


Wow, this looks great. I was thinking of doing something similar too, I think it looks much better than having a regular window. I will check you panel build log to get some ideas.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Hi all, I am in the process of modding my Core 3000 front panel and have 2 questions...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to get rid of the foam in front of the fans. I think I'm gonna do circular holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. If I try to unbend the metal mesh (in order to unmount the front panel), will it break ? I know that thin layer of metal usually doesn't like to be bent a couple of times...
> 2. Shall I cut the plastic frame ? ekg84 has done it in his front panel mod but I'm afraid of rendering the panel weak a bit...
> Any thoughts ? Thank you !


1. I've bent the tabs on mine 3 times now, none of them have broken (i've done the top and the front)

2. i cut the ones in the front out just slightly larger than the holes are going to be. will will allow you to keep the rigidity, and give support for a piece of cardboard behind the mesh to clean things up a bit. you can see the pics on mine below.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Define R3 Window Side Panel is launched
> 
> Fractal Design's new side panel features a large fully transparent window allowing you to display your setup in style.
> The acrylic window side panel features the same clean, Scandinavian design as the case itself, and has a completely flat outer surface without any plastic bezel or rivets.
> Installing the Fractal Design side panel could not be easier - simply remove and replace the standard panel!


Here is an FYI:
Looks like someone is listening.. Fractal Design has answered.
Newly designed side panel with a window. Available in Pearl Black and Artic White.
To be available in August

http://admin.getanewsletter.com/t/v/3_MzU1MjA0MjMx/

Hope this helps Fractal Design Define R3 owners

airdeano


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Define R3 Window Side Panel is launched
> Fractal Design's new side panel features a large fully transparent window allowing you to display your setup in style.
> The acrylic window side panel features the same clean, Scandinavian design as the case itself, and has a completely flat outer surface without any plastic bezel or rivets.
> Installing the Fractal Design side panel could not be easier - simply remove and replace the standard panel!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an FYI:
> Looks like someone is listening.. Fractal Design has answered.
> Newly designed side panel with a window. Available in Pearl Black and Artic White.
> To be available in August
> http://admin.getanewsletter.com/t/v/3_MzU1MjA0MjMx/
> Hope this helps Fractal Design Define R3 owners
> airdeano
Click to expand...

hope some arc series windows are in the pipe....


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> hope some arc series windows are in the pipe....


Yes, indeed. Would save me from a world of trouble.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Hi all, I am in the process of modding my Core 3000 front panel and have 2 questions...
> 
> I'd like to get rid of the foam in front of the fans. I think I'm gonna do circular holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. If I try to unbend the metal mesh (in order to unmount the front panel), will it break ? I know that thin layer of metal usually doesn't like to be bent a couple of times...
> 2. Shall I cut the plastic frame ? ekg84 has done it in his front panel mod but I'm afraid of rendering the panel weak a bit...
> Any thoughts ? Thank you !


1. On my Midi only 2 tabs are left:/ I'm getting rid of the restrictive mesh totally though









2. Iv cut out the plastic and it seems no weaker on the Arc Midi. I geuss the core 3000 will be the same.


----------



## adridu59

Thanks guys !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> 2. i cut the ones in the front out just slightly larger than the holes are going to be. will will allow you to keep the rigidity, and *give support for a piece of cardboard* behind the mesh to clean things up a bit. you can see the pics on mine below.


Well I think I'll just cut circles in the foam and let the rest in place.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Define R3 Window Side Panel is launched
> Fractal Design's new side panel features a large fully transparent window allowing you to display your setup in style.
> The acrylic window side panel features the same clean, Scandinavian design as the case itself, and has a completely flat outer surface without any plastic bezel or rivets.
> Installing the Fractal Design side panel could not be easier - simply remove and replace the standard panel!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an FYI:
> Looks like someone is listening.. Fractal Design has answered.
> Newly designed side panel with a window. Available in Pearl Black and Artic White.
> To be available in August
> http://admin.getanewsletter.com/t/v/3_MzU1MjA0MjMx/
> Hope this helps Fractal Design Define R3 owners
> airdeano
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Define R3 Window Side Panel is launched
> Fractal Design's new side panel features a large fully transparent window allowing you to display your setup in style.
> The acrylic window side panel features the same clean, Scandinavian design as the case itself, and has a completely flat outer surface without any plastic bezel or rivets.
> Installing the Fractal Design side panel could not be easier - simply remove and replace the standard panel!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an FYI:
> Looks like someone is listening.. Fractal Design has answered.
> Newly designed side panel with a window. Available in Pearl Black and Artic White.
> To be available in August
> http://admin.getanewsletter.com/t/v/3_MzU1MjA0MjMx/
> Hope this helps Fractal Design Define R3 owners
> airdeano
Click to expand...

oh my gah! This is BAd news for my wallet !


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Hi all, I am in the process of modding my Core 3000 front panel and have 2 questions...
> 
> I'd like to get rid of the foam in front of the fans. I think I'm gonna do circular holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. If I try to unbend the metal mesh (in order to unmount the front panel), will it break ? I know that thin layer of metal usually doesn't like to be bent a couple of times...
> 2. Shall I cut the plastic frame ? ekg84 has done it in his front panel mod but I'm afraid of rendering the panel weak a bit...
> Any thoughts ? Thank you !


that metal is pretty flexible from my experience, i've bent it like 4 times and it didnt brake or even crack, just bend it slowly, the only thing - that paint may crack a bit in the bending spot.


----------



## squirly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Define R3 Window Side Panel is launched
> Fractal Design's new side panel features a large fully transparent window allowing you to display your setup in style.
> The acrylic window side panel features the same clean, Scandinavian design as the case itself, and has a completely flat outer surface without any plastic bezel or rivets.
> Installing the Fractal Design side panel could not be easier - simply remove and replace the standard panel!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an FYI:
> Looks like someone is listening.. Fractal Design has answered.
> Newly designed side panel with a window. Available in Pearl Black and Artic White.
> To be available in August
> http://admin.getanewsletter.com/t/v/3_MzU1MjA0MjMx/
> Hope this helps Fractal Design Define R3 owners
> airdeano
Click to expand...

Any word on a Midi side panel window? Are they the same as the R3's?


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> hope some arc series windows are in the pipe....


+1 on that


----------



## AbdullahG

Core 1000 windows please!
No?


----------



## kubed_zero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Core 1000 windows please!
> No?


Why make a premium product for their cheapest case, when more expensive products don't get windowed side panels? Think about it, Fractal has to make a little incentive to drop that 100 bucks on a case, and not have a windowed, amazing 40 dollar case!


----------



## chris ofc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Hi all, I am in the process of modding my Core 3000 front panel and have 2 questions...
> 
> I'd like to get rid of the foam in front of the fans. I think I'm gonna do circular holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. If I try to unbend the metal mesh (in order to unmount the front panel), will it break ? I know that thin layer of metal usually doesn't like to be bent a couple of times...
> 2. Shall I cut the plastic frame ? ekg84 has done it in his front panel mod but I'm afraid of rendering the panel weak a bit...
> Any thoughts ? Thank you !


You can bent those things as much as you like, as long as you are carefull they won't break,

For the plastic grills, on my build i cut them all away without losing any strenght in the front bezel. (if you want to fit 2x 120mm properly you will have to cut away almost everything)


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Core 1000 windows please!
> No?
> 
> 
> 
> Why make a premium product for their cheapest case, when more expensive products don't get windowed side panels? Think about it, Fractal has to make a little incentive to drop that 100 bucks on a case, and not have a windowed, amazing 40 dollar case!
Click to expand...

That's pretty much exactly it. But $40 is what makes the Core1000 so great, you can mod it to your heart's content, like mine, and not worry about ruining an expensive case.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> hope some arc series windows are in the pipe....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Yes, indeed. Would save me from a world of trouble.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> oh my gah! This is BAd news for my wallet !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *squirly*
> 
> Any word on a Midi side panel window? Are they the same as the R3's?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> +1 on that


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Core 1000 windows please!
> No?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Why make a premium product for their cheapest case, when more expensive products don't get windowed side panels? Think about it, Fractal has to make a little incentive to drop that 100 bucks on a case, and not have a windowed, amazing 40 dollar case!


ok mates, it looks like an email campaign is necessary to support the FD cases and side-window panel production.
here is what i got for an answer:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano and Fractal Design*
> 
> *Message:*
> fractal design,
> congratulations on the release of the R3 windowed-side panel. as a proud owner of two Arc Midi cases, i am wondering if there is an antisipated launch date for the Arc Midi? there have been several question of this on several forums. i for one, would like to have (purchase) on of these when available. there are a lot of water-cooling kits installed and many want to "show-off" their wares and the windowed-side panel would be a major hit amongst the Midi owners. and while about the Midi, the Mini will surely come-up on availability, also. thank you for your products as i try to get many enthusiasts involved in the Fractal Design case as they are fabulous cases along with many of your other products.
> 
> *Reply:*
> Hello Dean
> Thank you for your mail.
> We don´t have a plan for the moment to release a acrylic side panel for the Arc Midi.
> Best Regards,
> Fractal Design


OUCH!! for best results, contact Fractal Design and impress upon them in their interest for an idea of a Mini/Midi
window panel would be beneficial for them as well as ourselves.

airdeano


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kubed_zero*
> 
> Why make a premium product for their cheapest case, when more expensive products don't get windowed side panels? Think about it, Fractal has to make a little incentive to drop that 100 bucks on a case, and not have a windowed, amazing 40 dollar case!


So lazy people like me don't have to pick up the dremel and start cutting








Was worth a try


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> So lazy people like me don't have to pick up the dremel and start cutting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was worth a try


im lazy and do not have the skill to start cutting


----------



## adi518

Not sure you guys heard but Fractal released a window panel for the define r3! Will be available in August for 19$.










I recommend you all to subscribe to their news-letter.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Nope didn't hear about that.







I am thinking of buying the Arc Mini, I wish it had a side panel window..


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris ofc*
> 
> For the plastic grills, on my build i cut them all away without losing any strenght in the front bezel. (*if you want to fit 2x 120mm properly you will have to cut away almost everything*)


Thanks, did you do this ? Have pics ?


----------



## azeller09

What about the Arc?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azeller09*
> 
> What about the Arc?


You should have bought a Define muhaha !









lol, j/k they'll probably make a panel for it as well.


----------



## lurker2501

i think the panel on define r3 ruins the whole idea of a complete silent case and thus the point of buying this case for this particular purpose, plus it looks kinda cheap to me and too simplistic. not hating on the case itself in any matter though.


----------



## dNAAAAZ

OMG OMG, make one for the Arc Mini








mATX is going to be the future, and there isn't a mATX case like the Mini. The only thing missing is a windows in the side panel








Cheerz,


----------



## airdeano

drown Fractal Design in emails and inquiries about the windowed-side panel, and that might kick 'em in gear to get it done!
'cuz so far, it is not gunna happen for the Arc Mini/Midi or Core cases....

airdeano


----------



## adi518

Fractal Design already proved they listen to customers and looks like it isn't too expensive for them to make these so I don't see why they would reject the idea of making a window panel for the arcs, especially when those are compatible with water cooling and FD must know how people like to show off a WC rig. There's a serious chance it will happen.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

I just sent them an email, asking for a side panel window for the Arc Mini/ Arc Midi. Hopefully they email me back, If you guys want a side panel window you should email them suggesting one.


----------



## shogrran

Does anyone of you guys know a custom pc maker in singapore? Ya know, the guys who offer braiding services and cable management and the like?


----------



## Theloudtrout

You don't want to take a crack at it yourself. It's really fun !


----------



## SirWooties

Will Fractal come out with a side window for the Arc Midi? I'm deciding on the arc midi or the new side window version of the carbide 300r.

ALSO! Does anyone know what color of the power LED is on the arc midi?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Power led is blue.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> Will Fractal come out with a side window for the Arc Midi? I'm deciding on the arc midi or the new side window version of the carbide 300r.
> ALSO! Does anyone know what color of the power LED is on the arc midi?


As ^ has said it's blue. FYI the HDD LED is red and makes the power LED look purple at times. I am going to hopefully change the Red LED for a white or blue one.


----------



## MiiX

Someone know the space between the two red lines?
http://ScrnSht.com/fmtwvr
It's a Core 1000


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Someone know the space between the two red lines?
> http://ScrnSht.com/fmtwvr
> It's a Core 1000


Measured 383mm.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Measured 383mm.


Thanks. That means there are 420mm-383mm=37mm plastic in the front. Now i have to rethink my watercooling idea...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> As ^ has said it's blue. FYI the HDD LED is red and makes the power LED look purple at times. I am going to hopefully change the Red LED for a white or blue one.


It annoys me that it looks purple when the hdd led flashes. I've got a replacement red led but I can't do much at the moment because I'm recovering from surgery


----------



## Blizlake

Pretty weird... On mini they dont mix at all


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

They mix quite bad on my Midi but I have my PC on my desk so I can't see them whilst I'm on it


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> Does anyone of you guys know a custom pc maker in singapore? Ya know, the guys who offer braiding services and cable management and the like?


From Hong Kong:

www.moddiy.com


----------



## Transmaniacon

Hi guys, thinking about picking up an Arc Midi soon, had a question about the side intake. Do you guys have fans there? There are only a couple 180mm fans out there, and they would also require a dust filter, is this sometching I should look in to?


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Hi guys, thinking about picking up an Arc Midi soon, had a question about the side intake. Do you guys have fans there? There are only a couple 180mm fans out there, and they would also require a dust filter, is this so,etching I should look in to?


I have an Arc Midi, with a NB Pk-2 140mm side intake this is a quite fan but all fans I have tested make a lawn strimmer noise on the side, but if you use one of these it does quieten things down, helps stopping dust getting in the case, does not restrict airflow and covers the side area well.

Some people don't have a fan there for many reasons the top 2 being, they have a side window mod or their cooler does not allow room there for a fan. At the moment I am testing diff' fan configurations and as I am always working on my rig, both sides are off most of the time, in the end I will be either doing a window mod or buying one from Fractal (you hear that Fractal - LOL)

P.S. If you have a positive air flow setup you could get away with no filter on the side if there is no fan there.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> I have an Arc Midi, with a NB Pk-2 140mm side intake this is a quite fan but all fans I have tested make a lawn strimmer noise on the side, but if you use one of these it does quieten things down, helps stopping dust getting in the case, does not restrict airflow and covers the side area well.
> Some people don't have a fan there for many reasons the top 2 being, they have a side window mod or their cooler does not allow room there for a fan. At the moment I am testing diff' fan configurations and as I am always working on my rig, both sides are off most of the time, in the end I will be either doing a window mod or buying one from Fractal (you hear that Fractal - LOL)
> P.S. If you have a positive air flow setup you could get away with no filter on the side if there is no fan there.


Thanks for the quick reply, I might try a fan there and see how it effects temps, and then invest in something good.


----------



## Transmaniacon

So here is my fan layout plan:










I currently have a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with one CoolerMaster BladeMaster fan in push, and I will be purchasing a second BladeMaster for push/pull. Denoted by the teal in the diagram.

I will move the rear Fractal 140mm fan to the front, and keep the top fan in its place as exhaust. This gives me two intakes, and one exhaust plus the CPU push/pull venting out the back.

Do you think the stock Fractal fans will be sufficient intake? I am open to suggestions, this layout just requires the least purchases, but I am not against spending if I can make improvements.

Let me know what you guys think!


----------



## Shrak

The stock fans aren't that great for air flow, both my mini and xl's stocks fans can barely be felt. You'd be better off getting better fans, or use the fractal ones as exhausts.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Yeah, i find the stock Fans to be more than good enough. If you were really obsessed i suppose you could throw noctua fans in there as they are quieter and can move more air. If you do then i would recommend pressure fans in the front to push it past the HDD cages. One thing to note about having air coming in the front you get dust rings on the front so if that would bother you then you may want to redesign your fan layout.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> Yeah, i find the stock Fans to be more than good enough. If you were really obsessed i suppose you could throw noctua fans in there as they are quieter and can move more air. If you do then i would recommend pressure fans in the front to push it past the HDD cages. One thing to note about having air coming in the front you get dust rings on the front so if that would bother you then you may want to redesign your fan layout.


Are those dust filters able to be cleaned? I usually take them out and use a vacuum.

What kinds of pressure fans do you recommend?


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> The stock fans aren't that great for air flow, both my mini and xl's stocks fans can barely be felt. You'd be better off getting better fans, or use the fractal ones as exhausts.


What would you recommend as a good replacement?


----------



## Theloudtrout

In the Arc the filters are in the grill so you don't even have to take anything off you can just hoover it off when the front is on the case. I just though i would mention it though as people have complained about dust rings in the past.

As for pressure fans off the top of my head i would recommend *Noctua's NF-F12 PWM fan's* they are quite expensive and the colors are slightly weird but they are the best in the market i think.

Alternatively Corsair have just released their own Fans and so far the performance spec's are quite promising. they are slightly cheaper and also black. for the Front i would recommend their *Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition* and if you were wanting matching fans they also do Airflow versions that are more like traditional fans. They are also very good (but get the quite editions) and will match the other corsair fans in the front if that is something you want. Personally if it were my case i would throw some SP 120 Quiet editions in the front and then leave the rest stock.

Other than that i cannot think of any other "decent" static pressure fans but if there are others i'm sure other users will be sure to recommend them.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> In the Arc the filters are in the grill so you don't even have to take anything off you can just hoover it off when the front is on the case. I just though i would mention it though as people have complained about dust rings in the past.
> As for pressure fans off the top of my head i would recommend *Noctua's NF-F12 PWM fan's* they are quite expensive and the colors are slightly weird but they are the best in the market i think.
> Alternatively Corsair have just released their own Fans and so far the performance spec's are quite promising. they are slightly cheaper and also black. for the Front i would recommend their *Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition* and if you were wanting matching fans they also do Airflow versions that are more like traditional fans. They are also very good (but get the quite editions) and will match the other corsair fans in the front if that is something you want. Personally if it were my case i would throw some SP 120 Quiet editions in the front and then leave the rest stock.
> Other than that i cannot think of any other "decent" static pressure fans but if there are others i'm sure other users will be sure to recommend them.


Thanks, I have an Antec 300 now so I am familiar with the "dust rings", nothing a vacuum doesn't fix









So it seems pressure fans will be best for intake, do you think it's a worthwhile investment to get a fan controller? I bought the three speed Antec tri-cools for this case, so I could just set it and forget it, but it seems I will need to manage the fans a little more now.


----------



## shogrran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> From Hong Kong:
> www.moddiy.com


I mean ... a physical location in singapore..







i can't order from a website.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shogrran*
> 
> I mean ... a physical location in singapore..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can't order from a website.


Try this 2 http://forums.vr-zone.com/case-modding/1720273-custom-modding-service-poll.html
http://forums.vr-zone.com/uvnium/355269-uvnium-reporting-opening-hours-updated-daily-your-convenience.html


----------



## bbbbqq

I hated how little room there was inside my R2, and since I was only using 1 hdd and 1 ssd, I did what I had to.

before:










After:


























Drilled out the stock cage
put the fan controller into the included 5.25-3.5" adaptor (backwards for ease of cable management)
elastic-mounted the hdd (no vibrations anymore)
velcro-dot the ssd onto the bottom of the 5.25 cage
zip tied the **** out of everything


----------



## Nuzart

Just joined, thought I'd post.

Sorry bad pics and could be neater.. but really cbf'd.

EDIT: should mention its a Arc Midi


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









And finally:


----------



## carmas

Nice build Nuzart, I like what you did with your SSDs. By the way, yesterday I was looking at those Silverstone filters. I am not sure on whether to go for them or rather use some Demciflex ones.


----------



## MrGMcD

Nice case Nuzart! I still think its a bit empty in the front though dont you?


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Nice build Nuzart, I like what you did with your SSDs. By the way, yesterday I was looking at those Silverstone filters. I am not sure on whether to go for them or rather use some Demciflex ones.


I used the silverstone ones because they can be screwed in (which I needed to do so it would stay) not sure if the demi ones do or not, haven't looked at them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGMcD*
> 
> Nice case Nuzart! I still think its a bit empty in the front though dont you?


I think yours is empty all round.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGMcD*
> 
> Nice case Nuzart! I still think its a bit empty in the front though dont you?


more to to add fat radiators and beastly drop-down LCD screens with a
stripper-pole and and and .... (*sorry, carried away*)

it looks fine, unobstructed air-flow to the rear of the case and no having the air go UP and
foul the CPU cooling system...

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbbbqq*
> 
> I hated how little room there was inside my R2, and since I was only using 1 hdd and 1 ssd, I did what I had to.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Drilled out the stock cage put the fan controller into the included 5.25-3.5" adaptor (backwards for ease of cable management)
> elastic-mounted the hdd (no vibrations anymore) velcro-dot the ssd onto the bottom of the 5.25 cage zip tied the **** out of everything


looks great. have you retested for temperatures?
if you aren't using it, loose it.. heat holders

airdeano


----------



## bbbbqq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> looks great. have you retested for temperatures?
> if you aren't using it, loose it.. heat holders
> airdeano


CPU went from about 45 idle down to about 35 idle. Not bad for an i5 2500k at 5ghz and 1.5v, being cooled by a Venomous X with 2 800rpm fans
GPU is down from about 55 idle to about 35 idle.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*


Is there a noticeable temp drop by swapping out foam for Silverstone filters ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbbbqq*
> 
> CPU went from about 45 idle down to about 35 idle. Not bad for an i5 2500k at 5ghz and 1.5v, being cooled by a Venomous X with 2 800rpm fans
> GPU is down from about 55 idle to about 35 idle.


Nice results mate !


----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

hey guys count me in. this is just the start of my new rig. ive got alot more to add to her but here ya go.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbbbqq*
> 
> CPU went from about 45 idle down to about 35 idle. Not bad for an i5 2500k at 5ghz and 1.5v, being cooled by a Venomous X with 2 800rpm fans
> GPU is down from about 55 idle to about 35 idle.


the temp drop is with the front cover closed?
might try to figure out where to place my 1ssd 1hdd and fan controller and i can do this mod, amazing temp drop.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

So I was looking for a way to put my 1tb and ssd in a single 5.25 bay and I found this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MM35A52CMB/

Anybody else got any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## Blizlake

Just tape the 2.5" to the back of the case: problem solved.


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Is there a noticeable temp drop by swapping out foam for Silverstone filters ?


Nope, not that I've noticed. Temps were/are fine regardless. It was just for looks.


----------



## AbdullahG

Guess what USPS did with my new GPU?



Almost 2 weeks and still counting...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I had to wait a week when my old gpu died and that was bad enough. I feel for you.


----------



## AbdullahG

It sucks








How do you screw in sending a package from Oklahoma that was suppose to go to New York, but you end up sending it to two cities in Texas and a facility in Washington?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> It sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you screw in sending a package from Oklahoma that was suppose to go to New York, but you end up sending it to two cities in Texas and a facility in Washington?


you know its cost effective to ship it more miles? like delta jetting me to atlanta and then to
seattle cheaper than direct by $400. just more skymiles for me, i guess..
i feel your pain..

airdeano


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Guess what USPS did with my new GPU?
> 
> Almost 2 weeks and still counting...


It's like pin the tail on the donkey... only with planes and packages!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> you know its cost effective to ship it more miles? like delta jetting me to atlanta and then to
> seattle cheaper than direct by $400. just more skymiles for me, i guess..
> i feel your pain..
> airdeano


Too bad the extra shipping miles just add on to the time I have to wait for the delivery...

Well, the package departed from the facility in Washington. I HOPE it's heading to NY by now; looks like it'll take an extra day or two to finally get here...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> It's like pin the tail on the donkey... only with planes and packages!











Too bad it's the only game of pin the tail on the donkey I don't wanna play.


----------



## bbbbqq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> the temp drop is with the front cover closed?
> might try to figure out where to place my 1ssd 1hdd and fan controller and i can do this mod, amazing temp drop.


Yeah, with front cover closed.

I just used those velcro dots to stick the ssd under the 5.25 bays, upside down, so I could use a right-angled sata and right-angled sata power without having it stick out. Same lead to the hdd that's suspended in the upper 5.25 bay.
I'd suggest suspending the hdd in the lower 5.25 bay (or getting a 5.25 to 3.5" adaptor, or using the one that came with the case) and putting the fan controller in the upper position.
I never adjust the speeds of the fans, i just want them slower, so i mounted the fan controller backwards for easy access to cables, threaded the cables in the hole above the 5.25 bay, and ran them down the front edge.


----------



## bortoloj

Hello I've replace all fans in my mini because the enermax apollish duo and fractal are crappy








Now it's Silverstone and Noctua, it blows and it's very quiet















I love the Silverstone fan


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Hello I've replace all fans in my mini because the enermax apollish duo and fractal are crappy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's Silverstone and Noctua, it blows and it's very quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I
> 
> 
> love the Silverstone fan


excellent move on the fan replacement... nice rig, too..

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbbbqq*
> 
> I never adjust the speeds of the fans, i just want them slower, so i mounted the fan controller backwards for easy access to cables, threaded the cables in the hole above the 5.25 bay, and ran them down the front edge.


then use the 5-volt side of the molex power connector or use a under-volt harness..
no controller necessay. more wirs to tidy and manage, bleh...

airdeano


----------



## ANDMYGUN

I sent this suggestion to them. they replied.
*Message:*

Let me start off by saying your cases are amazing. They are very minimalist and offer more customization features then most cases. Also congratulations on releasing the R3 side panel window. I've always found myself trying to cram all my hardware in to a small package. With respect, I would like to suggest a side panel window for the Arc Mini/Arc Midi. Right now there are no mATX cases available with the side panel window. We as PC builders really like to show off our hardware and right now there's just no way we can do that with mATX cases. Please think about it. or at least sleep on it, I hope you have a wonderful day.

Regards, A soon to be Fractal Design Arc Mini Owner.

*Reply:*

Depending on how well the R3 panels actually sell, we might very well introduce windowed panels for the mini models as well.

Regards,

Fractal Design


----------



## AbdullahG

My package is going to be delivered today!


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> My package is going to be delivered today!


Congrats! It only took then 6 tries


----------



## FloppyNL

Well I've finally finished my new built, after having some issues with the motherboard settings. Really enjoyed using the Arc mini, though those thumb screws are very tough to actually use your thumbs, had to use a screwdriver to release/tighten them.









Cables will be sorted tomorrow, just happy it runs smooth at the moment









*Edit:* How do I sort my signature rig? Keeps showing the old rig.


----------



## AbdullahG

Nice looking build buuutt...

What the hell is shining so bright in that picture?! Jesus coming down from the Heavens?!


----------



## FloppyNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Nice looking build buuutt...
> What the hell is shining so bright in that picture?! Jesus coming down from the Heavens?!


Thanks, and that's the afternoon sun on my window haha


----------



## Charlie--

Yes it's a very nice rig @FloppyNL - Top job








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Nice looking build buuutt...
> What the hell is shining so bright in that picture?! Jesus coming down from the Heavens?!


Well it is an Arc (it could be the Lost Ark) - Hence the bright light as the cover is of the case


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FloppyNL*
> 
> *Edit:* How do I sort my signature rig? Keeps showing the old rig.


Go to your profile page, scroll down to Signature and click "Edit signature text", you can change sig rigs from here.


----------



## FloppyNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Go to your profile page, scroll down to Signature and click "Edit signature text", you can change sig rigs from here.


Thank you, fixed it :]

And thanks @Charlie--!


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Hey guys! First time builder and new member of the of the community!
I finished my build literally five minutes ago and I powered it on and I panicked a bit: the hdd activity led is red? Is this normal? Like I said first timer here, so I'm not sure if the case is trying to warn me of a bad connection or something. Until someone tells me otherwise I am assumng it's just red and I didn't screw up, thanks! Will post specs and pictures later=) loving this case.

PS: what must I do to get into the club?







thanks


----------



## AbdullahG

Hey there, welcome to OCN! The HDD LED is suppose to be red. Yeah, it can seem confusing at first sight.

Just take a pic of your case, and you are in.


----------



## JYJelly

Hey guys, I have the White Fractal R3 and I recently found a few scratches (Its not too bad, but I can feel the dents so some paint got chipped off) on the case near the power button. I think either my parents or friend accidentally moved my chair and applied quite a bit of pressure from the chair to my case. Is there any way I can do some touching up so it looks good as new? The PC is less than a month old so I'm slightly annoyed by this haha.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Could you post a picture ? That way we know what we are dealing with.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JYJelly*
> 
> Hey guys, I have the White Fractal R3 and I recently found a few scratches (Its not too bad, but I can feel the dents so some paint got chipped off) on the case near the power button. I think either my parents or friend accidentally moved my chair and applied quite a bit of pressure from the chair to my case. Is there any way I can do some touching up so it looks good as new? The PC is less than a month old so I'm slightly annoyed by this haha.


If you can't fix it, get a spare part from Fractal. Just email them about it.


----------



## Charlie--

Ordered the following to continue my rebuild from an old Dell Vostro 200 PC

Mobo = MSI B75MA-P45
CPU = i3-2120
RAM = 8GB 1333MHz (Corsair XMS3 x2 4GB)

When funds are available I will probably get an SDD & replace HDD's & maybe a new GPU too, (not all at once tho')


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Is there any watercooling options for the define mini? I'm stuck between that and the ARC MINI.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Is there any watercooling options for the define mini? I'm stuck between that and the ARC MINI.


It's the same case with different panels AFAIK so technically watercooling in the cases is the same, (possibly) just more cutting involved if you get the define mini. Front 240 and rear 120 shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

So I'd have to remove the hard drive bays? where would be the best place to store hard drives if I'm also using a bay res?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> So I'd have to remove the hard drive bays?


how many HDD are you using?

airdeano


----------



## ANDMYGUN

1 WD Black
1 128 GB M4 SSD


----------



## adi518

Fractal told me on one of their emails that Define cases are not water-cooling ready. Frankly, I didn't think of WC when I bought mine. Anyways, that means, you must mod to make everything fit. What I don't like about this fact is that I hate modding, especially cutting the case. What I do have in mind though, is removing some components, like the entire HDD cage. You can do that by drilling out the rivets. No biggy up to here. Then, what I'd need is to make some sort of precision cut mount for say, a 240mm rad and hook it up with new rivets where the hdd cage was. This way, you get "clean" modding of the case, so you're not cutting and destroying it. I must say it's tempting to just drop the case and get another one that need not any mods for WC to work. I definitely think that FD will make the R4 and the next Define Mini WC compatible. They must.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Yeah. I like the silentness of the Define Mini. but the watercooling options of the Arc Mini. I also hate modding. Oh how I wish they made something inbetween.


----------



## adi518

They will. Other brands are breathing down their neck, so they must step up once again.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

I don't know. I mean if they do that then both cases become obsolete.


----------



## adi518

Well, that's for any product that gets a new version. The previous version most of time becomes obsolete.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Lets hope, I think I'm going to have to settle on the Arc Mini. Unless I mod in a fan grill for a top rad somehow.


----------



## adi518

In the Define Mini it's really cramped but I think that in a R3 you can actually use two rads, 50mm rad on the cpu and another 25 or 50mm rad on the bottom fan mount. That or maybe mount one of those really slim rads on the top with two Scythe slim fans. I'm guessing that in some setups it could actually work.

I was also thinking of dropping custom water cooling and going solely with ready-made solutions like the Kuhler 620. Currently I have one cooling my CPU. It seems that in the passing months Asetek (oem for Antec/Corsair/Intel) has put a kit for cooling a gtx 570/580. It's the same pump and 120/25mm rad but the pipes mount a bit differently to the pump. That should probably work on the Define R3 AND might work on the mini as well. You won't get super cold temps but it'll be enough and with right fans you'll get great performance and silence.










They also have this which looks great!



You can throw a dual slim PWM fans on that 50mm rad and there you go!


----------



## ANDMYGUN

That's cool. Something about watercooling makes me want to do it even though it'll cost me a small fortune.


----------



## adi518

That's mutual. Water cooling is fun and effective. My conclusion is, if you go high end, get it water-cooled. This 580 I have, heats up really bad on some games...it's a like a fricking toaster where I put my legs. :\ And what makes it even worse is that now it's summer time and the temps in the middle east are damn high so even my fan setup isn't that helping (got a bottom mounted 140mm fan throwing air on the 580 & a front 120mm fan).
So final conclusion is: WC is a must. It's just a matter of time and money now.


----------



## airdeano

it doesnt have to cost alot. it is all about choosing the right parts for the system and how they compliment
each other in the build. i've been water cooling for 4-5yrs now and made alot of mistakes, because it was
only an elite thing to water-cool. now with XSPC and other making starter kits and other review vendors to
offer suggestions on the who, what and where for water-cooling.
only 10% need to really look into the solution, the other 90% is sheer WOW factor looks. so if mechanically,
you are going to have a tougher time to do some things as other may blast past and make it look easy.
oh, by the way, it is, when you do it many times, it becomes easier and easier, know what parts work in
what situations.

airdeano


----------



## adi518

I've seen some setups around here and I sort of have an idea of what parts, fitting and tubing I want. Rads aren't cheap though, nor the CNC blocks. I might get one of those kits some day. I saw a Koolance pump+reservoir that I really liked but it's really expensive compare to XSPC.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

I think I'm getting the Define Mini and using a 240 fan grill on the top. fr0st.'s Red Carbon build has me motivated. I was going to get the EX240 kit but it's $260 so I may try a custom loop to see if I can save expenses.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Rads aren't cheap though......


you gotta know what you are looking for and usually it'll turn up. i just bought 2 black ice GTX 360 for under $100 shipped.
and 2 Alpha UT60 under $75.. so the deals are there, use common sense and know what the "deal" is to get it yours..

airdeano


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> you gotta know what you are looking for and usually it'll turn up. i just bought 2 black ice GTX 360 for under $100 shipped.
> and 2 Alpha UT60 under $75.. so the deals are there, use common sense and know what the "deal" is to get it yours..
> airdeano


sauce?


----------



## carmas

Yes, with so many competitors in the market it is possible to find good rads at a reasonable price. The Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 that airdeano suggested is my personal pick. I don't know what's the best price you can find in the US, here in EU I spotted it for 77 EUR (confirming the conversion 1$ ->1EUR







).


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Update:



Needs a good clean though


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> sauce?


meaning? source where? i get 'em used. usually minimal use time parts, didn't fit the build parts, or
need the money more than the parts sales. really nothing is critical other than tubing and i'd buy that new.

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Update:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs a good clean though


looks great, im going a bit further and carry the CF theme into the motherboard tray as well,
make it look as if it one full sheet all the way accross the back. and if i need pass-through
holes use the 800D grommets. parts forthe custom loop build should be here today! yeah!

airdeano


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I'm doing the same. This was just a mock up to see what it looked like. That's why it looks rough around the edges and doesn't go all the way up.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> meaning? source where? i get 'em used. usually minimal use time parts, didn't fit the build parts, or
> need the money more than the parts sales. really nothing is critical other than tubing and i'd buy that new.
> airdeano


nevermind, i thought you got em as a special offer of a website.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Update:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needs a good clean though


Great







- I like the CF or whatever it is called, see others use it but really don't know what it is or where I could buy some, any pointers? I take it's some kind of vinyl - I have some gloss white vinyl that I was going to use, that I got that from a local sign maker to do something similar to you, might go for the stuff you have used instead tho'.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Thanks. I used this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Scotchcal-Carbon-Fibre-Vinyl-Sheet-Wrap-Sticker-1m-x-1-52m-40-0FF/221068561977?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=012&category=36677&cmd=ViewItem.

So far I've wrapped the false wall and the drive cover in the pic and also both optical bay covers but I don't have a pic of that.

I'm planning on wrapping the floor, psu and making a cover to hide the psu cables. Also going to wrap the top of the hdd bay and bottom of the optical bays but it might be a bit over the top.


----------



## Charlie--

Ok cheers for the info, I might stick to my gloss white vinyl as it's only £5 per meter (600mm wide) - If you get chance post a photo of the front, please.

P.S. I take it that you mounted the bit on the side of the optical bay on card?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I'll post a pic tomorrow for you. I used a 5mm sheet of foam board for both the optical bay a day the false wall. Easier to cut than acrylic but not as strong but it does the job. Thinking about getting some sheet metal and welding it to the end of the motherboard tray to extend it then wrap it. All depends if I can be bothered to do it really. If I can't I'll use foam board to make it flush then wrap it.


----------



## Charlie--

Ok cheers, I think the sheet metal would be too much work for the end results as you would get just as good a look with the CF and more-so if you put it under the mobo like @airdeano mentioned. I am tempted to use the same stuff, but will wait as I need other parts for my rig 1st. - It would be great for me if they did CF like that in a white or blue too.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

They do. Search for BLUE 3D CARBON and it'll pop up with some. Just make sure it's 3d and bubble or air free.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Since we're on the subject, did some carbon wrapping myself today








First time i'v tried but pleased with the results









Sucky pics as usual though:


Did the top of the HD cage and the back of the optical drive too.


I'll get better pics once evreything is done. The plan is to replace the front mest with acrylic, cut 2 fan holes, then carbon wrap it to finish the look. Got the acrylic cut to fit in place of the mesh, now i just need to cut the 2 fan holes


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Ok cheers for the info, I might stick to my gloss white vinyl as it's only £5 per meter (600mm wide) - If you get chance post a photo of the front, please.


http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008DJENU8/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

Is this more in your price range? I recomend. Sorry for double post people


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Very nice. I wrapped the top of the hdd the other day but wasn't happy with the bumps where the rivets are so I removed the wrap in a mood.I'll start again when I can be bothered. I like what you've done with the I/O panel. Might steal that idea off you if you don't mind









Once I've got my side window done I'll start modding the front panel and top panel. Front will be the same as yours and the I'm putting a sheet of carbon wrapped acrylic under the top panel mesh with a cut out for my H100. Also need to paint the hdd trays and pci slots either black or red, haven't decided yet.

I'm limited because my knee is in a brace (thigh to ankle) and I can't stand for very long and it's a pain doing stuff sat down BUT it'll be coming off in a few weeks time so I can pick up the speed a bit.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Might steal that idea off you if you don't mind


Feel free









At first i wraped the I/O part but wasn't happy with the way the connectors made it look messy. Happy now though








CF goes well with the sleek looks of fractal cases.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Just got my Midi a couple of days ago and love it.

I wanted to know what you guys think of the fans. Do you think they are sufficient enough? I was planning on mounting all three on top as exhaust and buying three different fans, two in front, one in the rear. How does this sound?

Also, what fans would you recommend me getting?


----------



## carmas

Well, for the fans it depends on what you want. Do you prefer best performance, quiet fans or something in between? Do you have a color scheme in mind? PWM or not?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Just got my Midi a couple of days ago and love it.
> I wanted to know what you guys think of the fans. Do you think they are sufficient enough? I was planning on mounting all three on top as exhaust and buying three different fans, two in front, one in the rear. How does this sound?
> Also, what fans would you recommend me getting?


3x140mm won't fit up top, unless you drill out the dvd-drive cage. k.o.


----------



## airdeano

i did this weeks ago...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











freshly wrapped water-cooling parts, yummy.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




some water-cooling parts got wrapped, tonight


Black Ice GTX 240 with a Noctua NF-P12 (awaiting treatment)


XSPC RASA CPU water block wrapped in 3D black carbon fiber vinyl


dddddddaaaaaaammmmmmmmm..



airdeano


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Well, for the fans it depends on what you want. Do you prefer best performance, quiet fans or something in between? Do you have a color scheme in mind? PWM or not?


Somewhere in the middle would be fine. I prefer it to be white to match the other fans, but it can be black and orange too. It doesn't matter to me if it is PWM or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> 3x140mm won't fit up top, unless you drill out the dvd-drive cage. k.o.


Oh, didn't know that. Well, would the stock 140mm fans be good enough as an exhaust?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Somewhere in the middle would be fine. I prefer it to be white to match the other fans, but it can be black and orange too. It doesn't matter to me if it is PWM or not.


ahhh you forgot about cost... wasn't it 15 per fan?

airdeano


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> ahhh you forgot about cost... wasn't it 15 per fan?
> airdeano


Yes it was. My bad.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

@ airdeano - That looks awesome. Can't wait to see it finished.

@ ahzrukhal - I purchased these http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=4&prod=19 which are slower than the stock fans but very quiet. I have 2 in the front and 1 in the rear and 2 ap-15s on my h100 and during gaming sessions with all fans on the lowest I get a max of 65 on the cpu and 67 on the gpu and I can hardly hear my rig. The only thing I can hear that is kind of loud is my h100 pump but it's being sent back for a replacement AGAIN.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Since we're on the subject, did some carbon wrapping myself today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First time i'v tried but pleased with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sucky pics as usual though:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did the top of the HD cage and the back of the optical drive too.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll get better pics once evreything is done. The plan is to replace the front mest with acrylic, cut 2 fan holes, then carbon wrap it to finish the look. Got the acrylic cut to fit in place of the mesh, now i just need to cut the 2 fan holes


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> i did this weeks ago...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> freshly wrapped water-cooling parts, yummy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some water-cooling parts got wrapped, tonight
> 
> Black Ice GTX 240 with a Noctua NF-P12 (awaiting treatment)
> 
> XSPC RASA CPU water block wrapped in 3D black carbon fiber vinyl
> 
> dddddddaaaaaaammmmmmmmm..
> 
> 
> airdeano


I really like what both of you have done there


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Took a very poor pic of the front of my case to show the cf on the bay covers. Excuse the crutches and the dust


----------



## macarule

Few updates









GTX 580 (HD6870 running to hot)
Custom side panel.
small amount of cable work.
The side panel didnt come out how i wanted it to, im getting the font laserd on with a thicker outline or maybe even filled, still looks awesome though!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Few updates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> awesome though!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great modding...
take some electrical tape and run a stripe along the chassis rails to block out the through light of
the interior lighting. makes it solid. i will use a 3D carbon vinyl for my black out..

airdeano


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> great modding...
> take some electrical tape and run a stripe along the chassis rails to block out the through light of
> the interior lighting. makes it solid. i will use a 3D carbon vinyl for my black out..
> airdeano


awesome idea! cheers


----------



## Charlie--

@macarule - Great mods, top job







& @VulgarDisplay88 - Thanks for the photo, the CF on the bays looks really great


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Hey guys. Would a RX240 Rad fit in the front of a Arc Midi if I remove the hard drive bays?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hey guys. Would a RX240 Rad fit in the front of a Arc Midi if I remove the hard drive bays?


If I can get on in the front of a Core 1000, I think you can get one in any other case


----------



## ANDMYGUN

disregard this post. I've put to much thought it too it.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Few updates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GTX 580 (HD6870 running to hot)
> Custom side panel.
> small amount of cable work.
> The side panel didnt come out how i wanted it to, im getting the font laserd on with a thicker outline or maybe even filled, still looks awesome though!


Please give me your case..


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Please give me your case..











I was thinking the same thing. I especially love the side panel etching.

Wow...
I just realized something wrong about the airflow in my case: I have no exhaust fan. The 92mm fan was suppose to be backwards


----------



## Flanders finest

Hello;

After following this thread for a few weeks, I finally pulled the trigger! I ordered an Arc Midi, and expect it to be delivered somewhere next week. Could make a great deal by ordering now, case with PSU Antec HCG 520M (€ 156,89, shipping included), and that made the decision even easier.








I'll keep you people informed how my new build will go. Don't expect to much though. I'm not an over clocker, my only goal is to build a cool and quiet rig, and I am sure, after reading a lot of reviews and this thread, this case will be perfect.
When I get the case, I will start with moving all parts from my old rig in it, plus the new PSU. Then I can start playing with the fans set up, to find out how the cooling works, and eventually order more fans, wires, and maybe a fan controller.
I'm not in a hurry though. I'm waiting for the new AMD Trinity APU's to come out, and see what specs they have. I'm not an heavy gamer, so prolly the APU will be just fine for my needs. If not, maybe I go for an Ivy bridge with dedicated GPU, and even start with some mild over clocking. Time will tell.
See ya!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flanders finest*
> 
> Hello;
> After following this thread for a few weeks, I finally pulled the trigger! I ordered an Arc Midi, and expect it to be delivered somewhere next week.


welcome to the forum. once you get it snap some pix and share..

airdeano

on a lighter note, here some installation pix:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






got a quasi-layout of the pump/reservoir. prolly gunna use vulgardisplay theme to span the
backboard and prolly, under the motherboard tray. then mount the pump/res to it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






there is some distance to possibly use a fan controller (i don't use 'em) stripped down and
sheet metaled in over the opti bays for a side display similar to macarule idea.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






those radiator fans are the Swiftech Helix 120 fans. nnnnnnnnnnnice fans and a true white
blade. forthe dollars they are deffo a AP/GT-15 fan replacement. there is a Black Ice 240 GTX,
RASA water block mounted on a Gigabyte UD4. i removed the EVGA SLI to try something might
go back, won't know till i do the testing.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






close up of the MetroStyling 3D carbon fiber vinyl wrap. i do prefer this on the Di-NOC for
the price and thickness. its very durable and is an outside vinyl to resist fade.

will get more later...trying to get to the plexi shop for my clear window and backsplash panel.

airdeano


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> welcome to the forum. once you get it snap some pix and share..
> airdeano
> on a lighter note, here some installation pix:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got a quasi-layout of the pump/reservoir. prolly gunna use vulgardisplay theme to span the
> backboard and prolly, under the motherboard tray. then mount the pump/res to it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there is some distance to possibly use a fan controller (i don't use 'em) stripped down and
> sheet metaled in over the opti bays for a side display similar to macarule idea.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those radiator fans are the Swiftech Helix 120 fans. nnnnnnnnnnnice fans and a true white
> blade. forthe dollars they are deffo a AP/GT-15 fan replacement. there is a Black Ice 240 GTX,
> RASA water block mounted on a Gigabyte UD4. i removed the EVGA SLI to try something might
> go back, won't know till i do the testing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> close up of the MetroStyling 3D carbon fiber vinyl wrap. i do prefer this on the Di-NOC for
> the price and thickness. its very durable and is an outside vinyl to resist fade.
> will get more later...trying to get to the plexi shop for my clear window and backsplash panel.
> airdeano


Very nice. Are those the stock fans for the intake and rear?

How big did you decide to do your window? I was planning on doing one myself if Fractal doesn't release one soon.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Very nice. Are those the stock fans for the intake and rear?
> How big did you decide to do your window? I was planning on doing one myself if Fractal doesn't release one soon.


so far (because i am lazy) the rear fan is the only stock Fractal Design fan, it will come out when done. the front fans are the
BGears 140 (painted the blades white). the factory fans are ok, the R2 versions are far superior, but can be hard to locate.
for an enthusiast an easy option are the corsair AF140 quiet fans for a better increase over stock amount of air and quiet too.
for performance fans thats a preference choice you'll have to make, due to noise and equipment choices. i like the BGears
undervolted 7v and because i have removed the HDD cages for mass air-flow from the front to cool the GPU area.

the whole panel will be a window (ramsey77 idea). i bought a spare side panel with the intentions of making a window,
but the full panel idea is more revealing.
Fractal Design currently does *NOT* have plans for a window option for the mini or midi case at this time. we are urging
owners to email a request to "poke" them along to a quicker resolve.

airdeano


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Help me out guys. I'm going to be buying a Fractal Case on the 1st. I'm in between the Arc Mini or Define mini. With the Arc Mini it's ready to be watercooled but with the Define Mini I'll have to mod the the top with a fan grill. I'm leaning towards the Arc Mini cause I'm super lazy. But the Define Mini Looks great. Help me out?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Help me out guys. I'm going to be buying a Fractal Case on the 1st. I'm in between the Arc Mini or Define mini. With the Arc Mini it's ready to be watercooled but with the Define Mini I'll have to mod the the top with a fan grill. I'm leaning towards the Arc Mini cause I'm super lazy. But the Define Mini Looks great. Help me out?


i'll cast my vote for the mini, but i may be a bit impartial...


----------



## kubed_zero

Arc Mini for sure



http://imgur.com/tWm7B


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> so far (because i am lazy) the rear fan is the only stock Fractal Design fan, it will come out when done. the front fans are the
> BGears 140 (painted the blades white). the factory fans are ok, the R2 versions are far superior, but can be hard to locate.
> for an enthusiast an easy option are the corsair AF140 quiet fans for a better increase over stock amount of air and quiet too.
> for performance fans thats a preference choice you'll have to make, due to noise and equipment choices. i like the BGears
> undervolted 7v and because i have removed the HDD cages for mass air-flow from the front to cool the GPU area.
> the whole panel will be a window (ramsey77 idea). i bought a spare side panel with the intentions of making a window,
> but the full panel idea is more revealing.
> Fractal Design currently does *NOT* have plans for a window option for the mini or midi case at this time. we are urging
> owners to email a request to "poke" them along to a quicker resolve.
> airdeano


Yeah, I've sent about two emails already to them.

I'm still wanting those Corsair fans, but do you know anything about the COUGAR CF-V14HB fans? Priced at $16.99 so a little lower than Corsair.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> ]Yeah, I've sent about two emails already to them.
> I'm still wanting those Corsair fans, but do you know anything about the COUGAR CF-V14HB fans? Priced at $16.99 so a little lower than Corsair.


Cougar Vortex fans are great, def worth it


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Yeah, I've sent about two emails already to them.
> I'm still wanting those Corsair fans, but do you know anything about the COUGAR CF-V14HB fans? Priced at $16.99 so a little lower than Corsair.


I have mix of Noiseblocker fans PK-3, PK-2 & PL-2 - All PK-3's on a cheap fan controller (Scythe Kaze Q 3.5") and the PK-2 & PL-2 on the stock Fractal Design fan controller (see rig in sig). I have good cooling and quietness (near-silence for me) in normal operation and then great cooling with a bit of noise when I need it (might be overkill for my setup, but I really like these fans and in all aspects they work for me, as sound is subjective and each to own own). Shame the NB fans don't have white blades.

This is for an air cooling setup - for water cooling I think the NB-Multiframe S-Series are better for rad's (i.e. more static pressure) than the NB fans I use. Also there are better rad fans than the NB's I think, never done water cooling so not to sure, just info from what I have read on the forum.

*EDIT:*
Noiseblocker fan specs & info


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Looks like I'm getting an Arc Mini. Thanks guys. I had my doubts but you guys sure made me know which to pick with your amazing builds.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Looks like I'm getting an Arc Mini. Thanks guys. I had my doubts but you guys sure made me know which to pick with your amazing builds.


I am sure you will be very happy with it, all the Fractal Design cases rock! - I had a hard time deciding on which one to get myself. - Remember to post some photos of your build


----------



## candy_van

I've got both and decided to stick with the Arc Mini over the Define for my gaming rig.

I love both, but the Define is a bit restrictive for airflow - and the front door howled from the intake fans until I cut them down to 1200rpm or so.
That said I wasn't too happy w/ my temps in it, so I'll be using that either for a home server or another build when I need it.

May as well throw in a pic while I'm here (sry for the awful quality







)



Only minor quibble I have now is the case hums/pulses a bit, not loud but I'm super anal lol.
Don't think it will help too much but I might pickup some acoustic liner and seal up the doors at least.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Cougar Vortex fans are great, def worth it


Do you have them? I'd like to see someone who owns it give me a good word about them so I'll just buy them already. Been debating for over two days now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> I have mix of Noiseblocker fans PK-3, PK-2 & PL-2 - All PK-3's on a cheap fan controller (Scythe Kaze Q 3.5") and the PK-2 & PL-2 on the stock Fractal Design fan controller (see rig in sig). I have good cooling and quietness (near-silence for me) in normal operation and then great cooling with a bit of noise when I need it (might be overkill for my setup, but I really like these fans and in all aspects they work for me, as sound is subjective and each to own own). Shame the NB fans don't have white blades.
> This is for an air cooling setup - for water cooling I think the NB-Multiframe S-Series are better for rad's (i.e. more static pressure) than the NB fans I use. Also there are better rad fans than the NB's I think, never done water cooling so not to sure, just info from what I have read on the forum.
> *EDIT:*
> Noiseblocker fan specs & info


Noiseblocker's are not available here though. I would probably go with them if I had some extra cash as they are pretty expensive.


----------



## Shrak

I have 4 of the Cougar 120mm PWN fans and love them. Super quiet and still push plenty of air.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Super jelly guys. I can't wait to order mine.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Forgot to say the COUGAR fans are 140mm.

I wanted to put two in the front, but the washers will die too fast? I am using my bottom hard drive cages for my one SSD. If I could mount it somewhere so I can put the two fans that would be good, but I have no idea where else I'd put them.


----------



## Charlie--

@ahzrukhal - Shame the NB are not available to you. They are not cheap but I picked mine up for £9.98 ~ £11.99 each. Yate Loons are cheap and very good if you get the right ones from the right source.

@candy_van - Great set up, nice one


----------



## AHabit

I got mine today. I love the Case


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @ahzrukhal - Shame the NB are not available to you. They are not cheap but I picked mine up for £9.98 ~ £11.99 each. Yate Loons are cheap and very good if you get the right ones from the right source.
> @candy_van - Great set up, nice one


Yate's were going to be the ones I got but I guess I got fascinated by the look of the COUGAR ones. I could get six of the YL Medium Speed for around $50 but I don't think they like to be mounted horizontally.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AHabit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine today. I love the Case


8 pin to short?


----------



## AHabit

Jap, 8pin is too short. But i`ve ordered an extention.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Forgot to say the COUGAR fans are 140mm.
> I wanted to put two in the front, but the washers will die too fast? I am using my bottom hard drive cages for my one SSD. If I could mount it somewhere so I can put the two fans that would be good, but I have no idea where else I'd put them.


A lot of people like to hang their HDD and SSD from the bottom of the 5.25" bays which is easy and looks pretty nice (imo).


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> A lot of people like to hang their HDD and SSD from the bottom of the 5.25" bays which is easy and looks pretty nice (imo).


I've been wondering, how do you do that? I checked the holes on my Arc Mini last time I had my side panel off, but they didn't seem to align with anything...


----------



## Shrak

For one of my cases I just drilled the proper holes then just screwed it in as normal. But I'm sure you could easily use some of that awesome 3M doubled sided tape ( really is awesome stuff ).


----------



## ahzrukhal

I will try to mount it from the side of the 5.25 bay since I'm thinking the holes should line up. If not I'll just put tape and put it somewhere.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AHabit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine today. I love the Case


Nice rig & that's a beast of a cooler you got there.







Do you play "World of Tanks" by any chance?


----------



## ahzrukhal

Has anyone removed the bottom hard drive cage? I want to do it but I'm afraid I'll chip the screw and not be able to put it back again in the future.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Has anyone removed the bottom hard drive cage? I want to do it but I'm afraid I'll chip the screw and not be able to put it back again in the future.


no screws involved to loosed or lose because the lower HDD cage is held in by
6 rivots, four on the bottom and two in between the front fans on the chassis. i'd
advise install the other HDD cage when drilling the rivots to prevent twisting and
deforming the case while drilling. with the case on the I/O side down, i'd start on
the two front rivots first and then with roof and front panel removed, drill the last
rivots on the bottom. then remove the cages. i took string and threaded the string
through the rivot holes to contain the HDD trays and save for a later build idea.

like this


and when needed, you can pop rivot them back into place with 1/8" x 1/8" ally or steel
rivots and paint them SEM black trim paint (same color match).



airdeano


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> how do you do that?...


first make a template of the HD's screw hole pattern

empty 51/2 drive bays , tranfer template over and drill
out matching holes

a 90 degree or right angled drill will come in handy

screw down thru drive bay into HD.

use some kinda suspension washer/standoff
to keep HD off of direct cage contact

real simple......but very effective


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> no screws involved to loosed or lose because the lower HDD cage is held in by
> 6 rivots, four on the bottom and two in between the front fans on the chassis. i'd
> advise install the other HDD cage when drilling the rivots to prevent twisting and
> deforming the case while drilling. with the case on the I/O side down, i'd start on
> the two front rivots first and then with roof and front panel removed, drill the last
> rivots on the bottom. then remove the cages. i took string and threaded the string
> through the rivot holes to contain the HDD trays and save for a later build idea.
> like this
> 
> and when needed, you can pop rivot them back into place with 1/8" x 1/8" ally or steel
> rivots and paint them SEM black trim paint (same color match).
> 
> airdeano


So I need a rivet gun to unscrew them or just o screw them back?


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> So I need a rivet gun to unscrew them or just o screw them back?


1/8" drill bit is what you'd use

rivot gun would only be needed (actually you could use screws if you threaded the hole)
if you needed to mount the cage back to its original position


----------



## lurker2501

I don't see the point in drilling the holes for the hdd, it's easier to just strap it beside the mobo tray using a zip-tie like many ppl do with the ssds.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> zip-tie .


Sure.....zip-ties work. You could prolly get away with using hot glue or bubble gum too.
Most serious builders will take the time for a more professional installation.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I don't see the point in drilling the holes for the hdd, it's easier to just strap it beside the mobo tray using a zip-tie like many ppl do with the ssds.


I won't be drilling holes to mount the SSD. The holes on the 5.25 drive is what I plan to use if they actually fit. I'll upload a picture if I need to show you what I'm talking about.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Sure.....zip-ties work. You could prolly get away with using hot glue or bubble gum too.
> Most serious builders will take the time for a more professional installation.


This.

If you're going to do something, do it right the first time. It takes all of 5 minutes tops to drill the holes, and doesn't ruin the case in any way shape or form.

And it isn't the least bit hard.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Sure.....zip-ties work. You could prolly get away with using hot glue or bubble gum too.
> Most serious builders will take the time for a more professional installation.


What about modders who use velcro and tape? They probably look like satanists to you.
P.S. Each to his own. Any idea is only as "serious" as you consider it to be. It's not like you gonna play rugby with your rig or use it as a skateboard.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> It's not like you gonna play rugby with your rig or use it as a skateboard.


Right you are:


----------



## ahzrukhal

Anyway, I measured it and all four of them won't like up, so two of them will be left hanging. May seem stupid to put it there, but it was the first thing that came to mind.

You would use the screws from the inside to screw on the top two.


----------



## Blizlake

Don't the ones on the bottom of the ODD bay match 2.5" drives? looked that way earlier.
And thanks ChesterCat


----------



## bbbbqq

Simple solution: ditch your optical drive.


----------



## gceclifton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> zip-tie .
> 
> 
> 
> Sure.....zip-ties work. You could prolly get away with using hot glue or bubble gum too.
> Most serious builders will take the time for a more professional installation.
Click to expand...

QFT - zip ties are a half arsed solution. It doesn't take much more effort/time to do it properly and the finished product looks SO much better!


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> zip-tie .
> 
> 
> 
> Sure.....zip-ties work. You could prolly get away with using hot glue or bubble gum too.
> Most serious builders will take the time for a more professional installation.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> QFT - zip ties are a half arsed solution. It doesn't take much more effort/time to do it properly and the finished product looks SO much better!
Click to expand...

They are a blessing when doing cable management though


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> They are a blessing when doing cable management though


Right tool for the job!









But I msyself still prefer velco straps, or cable clips


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Right tool for the job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I msyself still prefer velco straps, or cable clips


I was tinkering with the idea of utilizing a mig/tig welder.........or possibly an air stapler.








Wanna make certain i'm not overlooking the next big thing.


----------



## adi518

Who's using an optical drive these days? I ditched mine long ago even though it was in mint condition and working perfectly! I can't even sell it because it's such an old technology by now.


----------



## gceclifton

I have a bluray player in mine. It's handy for the initial set up of drivers etc... I suppose an external drive would be better though, for the amount of use it sees! (Just bought a mini lathe and plan on getting a mill soon so I'm going over tightly packed machined aluminium case designs in my head... Can you get PCIe extender cables to change the orientation of GFX cards etc?)


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gceclifton*
> 
> I have a bluray player in mine. It's handy for the initial set up of drivers etc... I suppose an external drive would be better though, for the amount of use it sees! (Just bought a mini lathe and plan on getting a mill soon so I'm going over tightly packed machined aluminium case designs in my head... Can you get PCIe extender cables to change the orientation of GFX cards etc?)


something light this?


----------



## gceclifton

Exactly like that







Time for me to plan some plans then!

Just landed a job as CAD Technician for a small company so I feel it fitting to model a case in my off time and make it at home to house the CAD workstation that will eventually be bought for me to use (lugging my own PC to and from work at the moment as it is powerful enough to cope with Solidworks)

Maybe I should stop adding to my list of projects that I have on the go though!


----------



## MiiX

Anyone got some nice modded Core 1000 pictures for inspiration for my watercooling build? Thanks!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Anyone got some nice modded Core 1000 pictures for inspiration for my watercooling build? Thanks!


Axipher and golfergolfer watercooled their Core 1000:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000-now-with-custom-block-pump-res-combo-piece#post_16444238

http://www.overclock.net/t/1277710/work-log-completed-golfergolfers-first-water-cooled-core-1000


----------



## MiiX

Thanks, seen that case from axipher before, but the golfergolfer's case was new to me. Thanks to golfergolfer's pictures, i think i know how to fit my 360 rad inside the case


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Don't forget Ekg84's, It's a work of art. http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/2364651

Not watercooled but a really nice Core 1k


----------



## MiiX

Niice







Thanks

I thinking of placing the PSU in the bottom right corner of the case with the cables going up against the roof/top of the case. Then place a 360 radiator in the top where the PSU used to be.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Anyone got some nice modded Core 1000 pictures for inspiration for my watercooling build? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Axipher and golfergolfer watercooled their Core 1000:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1214261/project-maple-leaf-canadian-themed-design-core-1000-now-with-custom-block-pump-res-combo-piece#post_16444238
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1277710/work-log-completed-golfergolfers-first-water-cooled-core-1000
Click to expand...

Thanks for linking my build mate


----------



## Balli

Why did i buy my arc?
because of the 8 drives? No.
becouse of the ability to fit a double rad in the roof? No.
Becouse it had much potential? Yes.
i present my Arc.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balli*
> 
> Why did i buy my arc?
> because of the 8 drives? No.
> becouse of the ability to fit a double rad in the roof? No.
> Becouse it had much potential? Yes.
> i present my Arc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excellent - You defo' have vision and see potential in great ways - Nice one


----------



## AbdullahG

There's a good chance I can buy an Arc or Define Mini if my parents let me build them a PC for everyday stuff instead of buying an OEM. I'll most likely get the Define Mini. I've heard it's a better case vs the Arc Mini if you want quiet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balli*
> 
> Why did i buy my arc?
> because of the 8 drives? No.
> becouse of the ability to fit a double rad in the roof? No.
> Becouse it had much potential? Yes.
> i present my Arc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Half the stuff in the case is composed of rads


----------



## Balli

Well i crammed a 420mm x 140mm x 60mm rad in the bottom with push fans and a 360mm x 120mm x 60mm with push/pull fans in the roof








lots of cooling


----------



## AbdullahG

I just noticed something...Is that your PSU on top of the rad? I've seen someone once use the PSU fan in a mITX build as one of the rad fans.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> I've seen someone once use the PSU fan in a mITX build as one of the rad fans.


you really can not rely on the PSU fan to ventalate as the fan profile is usually slow until loaded
50-80% and then the fan ramps up in rpm.
pretty much unorthadox, but slightly ok. that last fan positiion will prolly be the warmest as again,
the PSU isn't reliable until 50-80 loaded and now that the heat generated is spilled into the case
the GPU PCB (not the GPU processor) is getting cooked. might wanna hang a thermometer in
the case about that area and monitor the temps and how it might effect overall interior heat
(GPU, CPU, VRM)

airdeano


----------



## Balli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> I just noticed something...Is that your PSU on top of the rad? I've seen someone once use the PSU fan in a mITX build as one of the rad fans.


Jupp, not for cooling but there is were it was room.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balli*
> 
> Why did i buy my arc?
> because of the 8 drives? No.
> becouse of the ability to fit a double rad in the roof? No.
> Becouse it had much potential? Yes.
> i present my Arc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice overkill. what about the temps though?


----------



## Adrenaline

I love my Core 1000 But i personally think the only downside is that the rear fan is only 92mm and not 120mm, Cant find a 92mm red led fan for cheap


----------



## MiiX

Zalman still sells red LED 92mm fans.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=92mm+red+led&_sacat=0


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> I love my Core 1000 But i personally think the only downside is that the rear fan is only 92mm and not 120mm, Cant find a 92mm red led fan for cheap


SilenX too


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Zalman still sells red LED 92mm fans.
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=92mm+red+led&_sacat=0


Thanks but my only problem is i live in the uk and these fans are quite expensive here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=92mm+red+led&_sacat=0


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> SilenX too


I don't have the red led SilentX fan in my Core 1000, but I have a red/black 92mm SilentX fan and it works great. Quiet and moves a decent amount of air.


----------



## AHabit

Update on my Case,..







Now with a custom window side Panel. How do you like it?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AHabit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my Case,..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with a custom window side Panel. How do you like it?


looks good!


----------



## Flanders finest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AHabit*
> 
> 
> Update on my Case,..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with a custom window side Panel. How do you like it?


Wow, good job on the side panel! Me like it!








Got news from the e-tailer today. My Arc Midi is ready for shipment, but not the PSU I ordered with it...







Hope it will be here before the weekend, as my two sons come to visit me.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AHabit*
> 
> 
> Update on my Case,..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with a custom window side Panel. How do you like it?


Very nice. Did you make it?


----------



## ahzrukhal

After sending 100 emails to Fractal they said they are working on a window for the Midi! No joke!


----------



## MiiX

Pic or it diddnt happen!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> After sending 100 emails to Fractal they said they are working on a window for the Midi! No joke!


i hope so, there are at leat 40-50 arc midi owners on various forums wanting the same.

airdeano

man, here's a customer service story.

friday i emailed fractal design about purchasing the midi i/o cluster as i boogered mine up "modding" beyond
repair. so i explained what i was doing, short cut photos and what i had done and i'd be greatful to pay for the
i/o cluster. i was prompted that they could not "sell" me one as they do not have a customer purchase program
(direct sales). so i get an email yesterday about an i/o cluster and this morning i get an email notifying me a
fedex package is on the way with a midi i/o cluster. will be here tomorow. out of texas no doubt.
this is a stand up company on support and what it takes to make the user return for more of their products and
services. i was looking at the bitfenix prodigy, but now i believe i might stay on Team Fractal Design.
thank you for your time..

airdeano


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Lets hope an Arc Mini gets a window too.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> i hope so, there are at leat 40-50 arc midi owners on various forums wanting the same.
> airdeano
> man, here's a customer service story.
> friday i emailed fractal design about purchasing the midi i/o cluster as i boogered mine up "modding" beyond
> repair. so i explained what i was doing, short cut photos and what i had done and i'd be greatful to pay for the
> i/o cluster. i was prompted that they could not "sell" me one as they do not have a customer purchase program
> (direct sales). so i get an email yesterday about an i/o cluster and this morning i get an email notifying me a
> fedex package is on the way with a midi i/o cluster. will be here tomorow. out of texas no doubt.
> this is a stand up company on support and what it takes to make the user return for more of their products and
> services. i was looking at the bitfenix prodigy, but now i believe i might stay on Team Fractal Design.
> thank you for your time..
> airdeano


Pretty much the same with me. I asked for just about every part aside from a whole new chasis, and they're usually more than happy to help out.


----------



## Flanders finest

Got an e-mail today. My Midi is on its way, expect it to be delivered today. Cant wait to start playing with it.
The bad news: the PSU I ordered was out of stock!


----------



## Half Blood Pimp

I emailed them back in March or April and they said that they are finishing up the midi window panel for production and it'll be out very soon... Obviously not but as long as one eventually does come out, I'm good.


----------



## AbdullahG

I don't think I've posted any updated pics of my build. Might as well (cellphone quality; I have NO idea how to work with a camera and the settings provided):
  

The cables:



I'm planning on sleeving the fan and front panel cables.


----------



## Flanders finest

Got my Arc Midi yesterday. And was really surprised about the good build quality! Very sturdy case, no flimsy side panels. Could not find any sharp edges. Came packed in a strong cardboard box, wrapped in plastic and protected with Styrofoam. No complaints here.
Started immediately to try it all out. Moved the fans to where I want them, took out the upper drive cage, looked closer how to mount HDD, mounted the fan controller that came with it... and so on.
Found some issues I wasn't to happy with though.
The snap on fan mounts didn't worked as smooth as I would like, not easy to snap a fan in.
Not much of a tool less design either. Needed a screwdriver for all thumbscrews, much to tight. After screwing them in an out a couple of times it went better.
I have doubts about the HDD mounting too. After sliding in the tray, you can secure the HD only on one side. I'm afraid they're going to rattle.
One of the MB stand offs had a damaged thread. I needed pliers to get it in, and then I could not fasten it, it kept turning. They could have provided one or two spares!
Well, so far my thoughts about the case. Overall I'm very pleased with it, even with the minor issues I mentioned.
To bad I can't start with the build, the PSU I ordered was out of stock. So I have to wait till next week to move on. I will post some pics later on.


----------



## AHabit

.


----------



## AHabit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Very nice. Did you make it?


Yes i made it,... it took me about 2hours. Wasn´t really hard. :-D


----------



## Malik

Hi Guys

I have question to you. Is there chance to install 2x140 on top of arc ?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Hi Guys
> I have question to you. Is there chance to install 2x140 on top of arc ?


in an Arc Mini, No. I do be leave however it is possible in an Arc Midi


----------



## Malik

Im talking about midi version


----------



## dNAAAAZ

It's possible in tha Midi =)

I have 2x140mm on top, but u can also put 2x120mm


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Hi Guys I have question to you. Is there chance to install 2x140 on top of arc ?


you just gotta be careful on the overall length. some of the tanks can get quite wide for capacity.
so how the rad/fan bolts to the roof, the ODD cage can restrict mounting. plus the bung-side
of the rad may get into the rear exhaust fan (if equipped).

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

i needing some help on an idea.

Fractal Design Core 1000 owners. i need a measurement from the bottom of the motherboard
(please list motherboard manufacturer and model)
to the case floor. it can be in millimeters or fractional. but it's gotta be very close to correct.

Fractal Design Core 3000 owners. i need a measurement from the bottom of the motherboard
(please list motherboard manufacturer and model)
to the case floor. it can be in millimeters or fractional. but it's gotta be very close to correct.

only core 1000 and 3000 cases, please. i'd gladly appreciate the ones who post and with
that i can +1 the members.

airdeano


----------



## AbdullahG

Case: Core 1000
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Measurement: Approx. 5mm

I measured in inches as well, and got a little over 3/16 of an inch. Convert 3/16 of an inch to millimeters, you get 4.8mm. A little over 3/16 on an inch would probably get you very close to 5mm.

P.S. Why do you need the measurements?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Hi Guys
> I have question to you. Is there chance to install 2x140 on top of arc ?


and also 3x120 and 3x140 if you remove 5.25 cage


----------



## AHabit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> and also 3x120 and 3x140 if you remove 5.25 cage


3x140? i want to see that







Can you show me a picture?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> i needing some help on an idea.
> 
> Fractal Design Core 1000 owners. i need a measurement from the bottom of the motherboard
> (please list motherboard manufacturer and model)
> to the case floor. it can be in millimeters or fractional. but it's gotta be very close to correct.
> 
> Fractal Design Core 3000 owners. i need a measurement from the bottom of the motherboard
> (please list motherboard manufacturer and model)
> to the case floor. it can be in millimeters or fractional. but it's gotta be very close to correct.
> 
> only core 1000 and 3000 cases, please. i'd gladly appreciate the ones who post and with
> that i can +1 the members.
> 
> airdeano


Tried 3 mobos at work in the core1k: every mobo was 4-5mm away from the bottom. Could help more if I knew why you need the measurements. Mobos were extreme4-m, asus's cheapest matx am3+ mobo and MIVG-Z.


----------



## DJKAY

UU Yeah Fractal Design Define R4 Review by Overclock3d.net
This is going to blow everything!

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/fractal_designs_r4_review/1




http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=99


----------



## Blizlake

^ DAFUQ?!?
lol 1080p TTL, here I come my darling <3
Nah, I kid. We've had one at work for a while now...


----------



## adi518

NEWSFLASH DEFINE R4 IS OUT!









From FD's Newsletter:










*Introducing Define R4*

The Fractal Design Define R4 is the latest in the Define Series of computer cases offering minimalistic and stunning Scandinavian design fused with maximum sound reduction, configurability and functionality.

The Define R4 side and front door panels are fitted with dense, sound-absorbing material making it a benchmark for noise reduction. Moreover, the Define R4 accommodates up to 8 HDDs, all modern graphics card sizes, and multiple ventilation options - including two standard Silent Series R2 hydraulic bearing fans - to keep internal components at optimal temperatures.

For ultimate functionality, the Define R4 features a front interface with USB 3.0 and an integrated three-speed fan controller behind the front panel door.

*Key features*


High density noise-reducing material for an optimal silent case - To achieve a high level of noise reduction, material with mass should be incorporated which is what we strive to achieve with the dense bitumen used on the side panels.

Patent pending ModuVent™ design allowing the user to choose between optimal silence or maximum airflow.

Top HDD cage (5 trays total) can be rotated 90° or removed for additional airflow or to accommodate long graphic cards up to 430mm in length.

Three-speed fan controller is strategically integrated in the front panel and supports up to 3 fans.

Two Silent Series R2 fans included, featuring hydraulic bearings contributing to a longer life expectancy - Silent Series R2 retail fans will now come standard in all cases.

Wider case body that allows for improved cable routing behind the motherboard - now 26mm wide.

New tool-less front fan holder makes switching front fans a breeze.

Two SSDs can be mounted on the back of the motherboard plate.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Nice case but a shame it doesn't support H100.


----------



## adi518

Oh there's a video:






Yeh, I'd be a bit pissed off if they STILL not make it water cooling compatible. I mean, I understand marketing but it's still isn't fair. I don't like the looks of the arcs.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

They have basically taken the Midi, slapped a door on it and added some noise dampening material but removed the best feature of the Midi - THE FAN HOLE LOCATIONS.

If they had placed them offset like the Midi then you could fit a H100 and other rads and I would have bought one.


----------



## adi518

Check the video, apparently you can put a 240mm slim radiator instead of the front fans...I'm still watching it, you should too.


----------



## adi518

Dude it's compatible! He says in the video you can mount a 240mm on the top! That's it I'm selling my R3.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

If you watch the TTL review he says "Talking of CPU heatsinks as a general rule of thumb we would say this case does NOT support the H100, in some remote cases you may get it in around your kit but for 99% of you we would say its a no no"


----------



## AHabit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Oh there's a video:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeh, I'd be a bit pissed off if they STILL not make it water cooling compatible. I mean, I understand marketing but it's still isn't fair. I don't like the looks of the arcs.


I think an ARC with overkill Rads, like 2x 360 etc. looks like crap, But a 2x120 in Top an a 120 in the front looks good,.. And i personally don't like doors at all. ^^

I think thats why Fractal made The R series and the ARC


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> If you watch the TTL review he says "Talking of CPU heatsinks as a general rule of thumb we would say this case does NOT support the H100, in some remote cases you may get it in around your kit but for 99% of you we would say its a no no"


Strange, what makes the H100 incompatible? Isn't it a 240mm rad? :|


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Strange, what makes the H100 incompatible? Isn't it a 240mm rad? :|


Not enough space. H100 + fan = 50mm, and there's roughly 40mm of space from top of the case to the start of the mobo. It might just fit but it depends on your motherboard. We've tried a few mobos (for pre-built systems) and it was a no-go.
Oh and the screw holes don't align with most rads IIRC, I didn't test it myself..


----------



## lurker2501

If Arc Midi and Define R3 Black Pearl could have sex, this would be their child. In a nutshell, as mentioned above it's basically an arc midi with a door and sound proof side panels. Plus bottom cage is not riveted anymore, so you can easily remove both. Pretty cool i would say for an update. Oh and two stealth ssd mounts on the back, which is a nice touch too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AHabit*
> 
> 3x140? i want to see that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you show me a picture?


3x140 i haven't seen, but it's possible with a little modding done. i'm thinking of trying that idea if i do a do a loop.


----------



## Blizlake

lol I just realized... Technically it does support slim WC rads: they didn't say that you could have fans too









Based on what little time I've had with the case:
They took the HDD cage from Arc series and made it 100% removable and 5+3 instead of 4+4 drives. They also made the case wider to accommodate 140mm fans all around. However the top fans aren't offset like on Arc series which is good from aesthetics point of view but essentially makes the top incompatible with watercooling.
Now that the case is wider, there's a lot more room on the back side of the case for cable routing (slightly under 20mm with the foam on the sidepanel included): that's very good since the R3 is a bit limited on space behind the mobo tray. The SSD mounts on the backside is a good idea but mounting is awkward since the screw holes will be behind your mobo. You can also, if my workmate isn't a ******, fit the huge Phanteks in the R4 He did say it was tight though..
Some people may love the integrated fan controller. Personally I don't like it but it's fantastic on pre-built systems.

Overall the case left me with a bit confused thoughts: it is clearly an upgrade, and it fixes some of the annoying little things on their cases like the fixed (lower part on arcs) HDD cage. However since they made it a tad taller than the R3, they could have made it even a tiny bit more so that you could install a watercooling radiator with fans on the top of the case without worrying too much about your mobo or RAM interfering.

As a successor to the R3, it's a winner. It just could have been so much better. Overall, I'd say it's 8.9/10.
Sorry for all the typos, I'm not going to start to hunt 'em on this rather long post.


----------



## Lukegrimbley

R4 looks not bad. Really brings the Define up to date. But what I really want to see is an Arc XL


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Arc XL would be awesome.

I want a white Arc so bad. Might see if I can get mine powder coated.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I want a white Arc so bad. Might see if I can get mine powder coated.


Yeah, I'd buy a white arc in a heartbeat. But powdercoating plastic is hard afaik. I'd rather have it painted


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just rang a friend of mine and he has given me a number for a local guy who has owns his own paint shop. Gonna see if he can paint my case rather than powder coat it.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> lol I just realized... Technically it does support slim WC rads: they didn't say that you could have fans too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on what little time I've had with the case:
> They took the HDD cage from Arc series and made it 100% removable and 5+3 instead of 4+4 drives. They also made the case wider to accommodate 140mm fans all around. However the top fans aren't offset like on Arc series which is good from aesthetics point of view but essentially makes the top incompatible with watercooling.
> Now that the case is wider, there's a lot more room on the back side of the case for cable routing (slightly under 20mm with the foam on the sidepanel included): that's very good since the R3 is a bit limited on space behind the mobo tray. The SSD mounts on the backside is a good idea but mounting is awkward since the screw holes will be behind your mobo. You can also, if my workmate isn't a ******, fit the huge Phanteks in the R4 He did say it was tight though..
> Some people may love the integrated fan controller. Personally I don't like it but it's fantastic on pre-built systems.
> Overall the case left me with a bit confused thoughts: it is clearly an upgrade, and it fixes some of the annoying little things on their cases like the fixed (lower part on arcs) HDD cage. However since they made it a tad taller than the R3, they could have made it even a tiny bit more so that you could install a watercooling radiator with fans on the top of the case without worrying too much about your mobo or RAM interfering.
> As a successor to the R3, it's a winner. It just could have been so much better. Overall, I'd say it's 8.9/10.
> Sorry for all the typos, I'm not going to start to hunt 'em on this rather long post.


what if you use a slim rad and two of these slim coolermaster fans?



No mentioned that..


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just rang a friend of mine and he has given me a number for a local guy who has owns his own paint shop. Gonna see if he can paint my case rather than powder coat it.


Just do what I did, get metal parts powder coated a gloss white and paint all the plastic with another colour to make the case your own.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> what if you use a slim rad and two of these slim coolermaster fans?
> [*pic*]
> No mentioned that..


That could work, as I said there's 40-45mm of space for rad+fans. The H100 is 25mm, so the 15mm fans could fit. *BUT:* Slim fans suck. They don't have enough pressure for radiator use and they're loud due to the higher rpm needed for "decent" airflow. The specs on those Xtraflo slim fans are very likely exaggerated (a lot), they're probably closer to 30dba/40cfm/low static pressure.
I don't dare to even guess what the real static pressure is)

Just get a good heatsink, a lot less painful.


----------



## Flanders finest

Damn Fractal Design! Just two days after I got my Arc Midi, they release this R4.
They improved all issues I had with the R3, and made me go for the Arc. Support for 140 mm fans, removable HDD cages.


----------



## adi518

I'm gonna put my R3 for sale but I'm not entirely sure I'll go for the new R4. I want to be unlimited.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> That could work, as I said there's 40-45mm of space for rad+fans. The H100 is 25mm, so the 15mm fans could fit. *BUT:* Slim fans suck. They don't have enough pressure for radiator use and they're loud due to the higher rpm needed for "decent" airflow. The specs on those Xtraflo slim fans are very likely exaggerated (a lot), they're probably closer to 30dba/40cfm/low static pressure.
> I don't dare to even guess what the real static pressure is)
> Just get a good heatsink, a lot less painful.


I want a thick 240mm rad to cool the cpu & gpu. The cpu, yeh it's not a problem these days. I don't like the huge noctua so a kuhler 620 works fine BUT, I rather make a full setup with a loop that goes to cpu, then gpu...the whole thing.


----------



## csm725

Adi you know you can also cool the GPU with a Kuhler 620, check out the Artisan section for some mounts. It's a new trend and it cools the GPU to within 5-10C of what you'd get with an actual WC loop. That coupled with good fans (say GTs) can be a great cooling solution, and that's what I'll do when I next upgrade.


----------



## adi518

I'm aware of that thread but I don't want to use the 620. Asetek has an OEM product which is something I could settle for but they insist not selling it to private customers. Weirdos.

http://www.asetek.com/desktop/gpu-a-combo-coolers/760gc.html


----------



## csm725

What's wrong with the 620?


----------



## Flanders finest

OK, so here is the first pic, to prove I'm a Fractal Design owner. Can I join the club now, please?
Sorry for the mess, I should have taken a pic before starting dismantle it.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Could help more if I knew why you need the measurements.


now, now... i'll let you know hen i can get it to work, first. so far it is a doable project of fractal owners. more
in a bit. still needing core 3000 specs..

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> ^ DAFUQ?!? lol 1080p TTL, here I come my darling <3


yeah, a pretty good review...

airdeano

as to the new R4, i won't be buying one as my midi is the same without a front door. i knew they'd made some
improvements over the epic R3 case, but this kinda left me shrugging my shoulders. instead of subtle changes
make them to where peeps like me, would move to the silent case because of.... and not i got it, what else.

i commented in another forum, to make me buy one today it'd have to have:
Quote:


> to buy the R4.5 or R5 i'd want it to be taller (500mm+), water cooling compatible, 4 USB 3.0 (with 2.0 pigtails)
> and convertible opti bay to use that area for HDD inline with the other cages and fix that friggin' door to open
> WIDER or hinge at the bottom or reversable!just let me access the fan area easier. make the front fan cartrige
> less clumbsy and more adaptable than the clip-on fan clips (that break) use fan attachment bosses (brass
> preferably) for more fan selection (140mm fan market is not as selectable as the 120mm are at this time).
> just make thin metal brackets to attach to the back of mobo to secure the SSD drives, they dont weigh any
> amount of mass to worry about ripping away from the tray (optional placement).
> 
> and please, please stop making the public
> cry for a windowed-side panel. state it on
> release that a panel will be available,
> *PERIOD!*
> 
> instead of waiting for public opinion to scream for it (the XL got one...).
> get it close to this and my dollars will be your dollars Fractal Design. till then i'll stay with
> my Arc Midi (R4 without a door).


some peeps base their purchase of a case whether it has a viewing window or not. and if will, then you have a
sale now and in the future. customers want options, you give them a few of the same.
the up to 510mm x 510mm case market is tight and in silent case market its bloddy.. gotta be on the cutting-edge
like the arc series move.

airdeano


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> What's wrong with the 620?


I don't have enough space to mount another Kuhler 620. The other product from Asetek, that one has 1x thick 120mm rad so it's far more convenient.

Guys, I've been thinking about this and maybe, just maybe there's a chance Fractal take notice of the wanted changes and make those, before the actual market release. Like they did with their new HTPC, it came out people didn't like some things about it and they changed it again, then posted a new newsletter. Either way, I'm gonna email Fractal.

Btw, regarding the SSDs need to be installed before the mobo, I have a very elegant solution...just use a 2-side gluetape.


----------



## adi518

Fractal Design has responded with a new video regarding the radiator comments, you better see it guys. It shows stuff TTL didn't show.






I think the "problem" is solved.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Doesn't really solve the "H100 problem" though does it?

Just sent them an email suggesting to relocate the top fan locations to that of the midi so they would get "more money from me and other fractal lovers"









It's a simple fix that I think would greatly increase the amount of people that would buy it. Me included.


----------



## adi518

Well, the problem is far less enhanced now. I can use a 120mm rad for the cpu and a 240mm rad for the gpu, make a nice loop and I'm done. I don't like top mounts anyway. Although, top mounts is better as hot air ventilates upwards and would clear faster this way, plus it'll be closer to the pump/reservoir.


----------



## Blizlake

I will personally go and test a H100 next week if I have any free time at work: I'll be doing 2 shifts (wednesday and friday iirc). It's very possible that my workmate is a ****** and could have tried to install the rad on the 140mm screwholes or something (he has done that once before...). What they've done with the front looks great though, I think this case just went from 8.9/10 to 9.38/10


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Wow. I'm in love with the R4, You guys think there going to release a mini version?


----------



## adi518

Now I can really relax and buy it. This time I'm going for titanium grey though.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Fractal Design has responded with a new video regarding the radiator comments, you better see it guys. It shows stuff TTL didn't show.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the "problem" is solved.


first thing this morning representative from Fractal Design Josh first video release was very vague about
the front inlet and roof radiator projects.. and her video was not a clear cut answer to water cooling the
front-end of the case. ya kinda need to attach a radiator to something mmm "solid" or your gunna have
5 feet of coolant hose to allow for the thing to tip outwards.. it was an idea at best. i'll wait to see how this
lil experiment unfolds.. but until then my doorless R4 and i are quite well..

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I will personally go and test a H100 next week if I have any free time at work: I'll be doing 2 shifts (wednesday and friday iirc). It's very possible that my workmate is a ****** and could have tried to install the rad on the 140mm screwholes or something (he has done that once before...). What they've done with the front looks great though, I think this case just went from 8.9/10 to 9.38/10


if you'll measure the roof height for 53mm, it'll tell you everything. due to the lack of an offset like the midi/mini the H100 is
not going into that case without roof modifications.

airdeano


----------



## Diesel Phreak

This thread has convinced me to get an Arc Midi. Gonna get one within the month. Already got a local buyer lined up to buy my Sniper. Awesome case, but tired of the flashiness. Want some sleeker and more minimalistic.


----------



## jvkua

I wonder if anybody has tried to fit a 120mm in the 140mm slot on the front panel of the core 3000. If you did, did it work?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvkua*
> 
> I wonder if anybody has tried to fit a 120mm in the 140mm slot on the front panel of the core 3000. If you did, did it work?


Here are some pictures I took for another member of my core 1000. a 140 mm should fit, just would need some new holes of course.

The first 2 pictures are a 120 mm frame, the last one is a 140 mm.


----------



## jvkua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Here are some pictures I took for another member of my core 1000. a 140 mm should fit, just would need some new holes of course.
> 
> The first 2 pictures are a 120 mm frame, the last one is a 140 mm.


I meant the 140mm slot of the core 3000 because it clips it in. I just wondered if anybody has tried fitting a 120mm fan on it because I can buy 120mm fans cheaper in bulk compared to buying a bunch of 120mm and a single 140mm. Plus, there are more choices for me if I buy 120mm


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*
> 
> This thread has convinced me to get an Arc Midi. Gonna get one within the month. Already got a local buyer lined up to buy my Sniper. Awesome case, but tired of the flashiness. Want some sleeker and more minimalistic.


i hear ya, had a sniper black as well to build up. i came from the 800D to CM 690 and now Arc Midi. and you'll like the
approach to modding for this case as you can have it all or stripped down to bare essentials for any type of cooling.
whether it be a straight air-cooled rig, or a bolt-in performance liquid cooler to a full blown custom water loop.
and the under 500mm x 500mm (20.0" x 20.0") case format it can do a lot. i was gunna jump on the Prodigy wagon
but i'm really happy with the midi, i may do a second one..
c'mon aboard the Fractal Design train...

airdeano


----------



## Malik

Now i must decide... AC or LC


----------



## Diesel Phreak

Where can i find some Fractal white fans to match the ones that come with the Midi, so i can fill in the rest of the fan holes?


----------



## Vuashke

quietpc sell em, both 120 and 140mm fractal silents


----------



## Greenbean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Now i must decide... AC or LC


Malik, I've seen the work that you've done in the past @ XS. It's beautiful stuff and I'm sure either AC or LC will turn out well. Personally, I've seen your Define build, so I would like to see what you can do with the Arc.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*
> 
> Where can i find some Fractal white fans to match the ones that come with the Midi, so i can fill in the rest of the fan holes?


Fractals new R2 is available @ NCIX $11
or the OE Fractals are here @ NCIX $7

but, you may not wanna fill all the fan holes unless you are water cooling.. air-cooling
doesn't need all that air-flow directions. especially the roof as it distrubs the intake air and
starves the CPU cooler from good air. if you under-volt the roof (middle) to 5-volt then your
golden as an intake, 12-volt just kills CPU temp.

airdeano


----------



## Diesel Phreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Fractals new R2 is available @ NCIX $11
> or the OE Fractals are here @ NCIX $7
> but, you may not wanna fill all the fan holes unless you are water cooling.. air-cooling
> doesn't need all that air-flow directions. especially the roof as it distrubs the intake air and
> starves the CPU cooler from good air. if you under-volt the roof (middle) to 5-volt then your
> golden as an intake, 12-volt just kills CPU temp.
> airdeano


Thanks for the advice, i read a few of your other posts regarding this so i started rethinking my approach. I'm thinking about getting some medium speed Yates and painting them white for the front intake, and using the stock fractal fans for rear and one top, which according to you is the best way to go for temps and such. And i'll be getting the NZXT Sentry fan controller to slow down the yates especially. Does that sound like a good plan to you? or you you think the Fractal R2's would suffice for the front intake. I want good performance but i really would like it to be pretty quiet too. Only requirement is i wanna stick with the white fan theme.


----------



## airdeano

the R2 is almost double in airflow and 200rpm faster than the OE fans.

OE Stock:
RPM: 800 +/- 10% RPM
Noise: 9 dBA
Airflow: 38.6 CFM

R2:
RPM: @ 7-volt 800 RPM @ 12-volt 1000 RPM
Noise: @7-volt 15 dBA @12-volt 19 dBA
Airflow: @ 7-volt 52.79 CFM @12-volt 65.99 CFM

while testing the R2 in the midi i found using two in the front intake one OE in forward position in roof (feeds CPU cooler pretty well).
and OE fan in rear exhaust. R2 in the side panel if you are running a hot GPU. and fan can be painted (lightly) to reflect your scheme.
once i get all the fan details finished, whip out the rattle can or air-brush and finish the details.

airdeano


----------



## Diesel Phreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> the R2 is almost double in airflow and 200rpm faster than the OE fans.
> OE Stock:
> RPM: 800 +/- 10% RPM
> Noise: 9 dBA
> Airflow: 38.6 CFM
> R2:
> RPM: @ 7-volt 800 RPM @ 12-volt 1000 RPM
> Noise: @7-volt 15 dBA @12-volt 19 dBA
> Airflow: @ 7-volt 52.79 CFM @12-volt 65.99 CFM
> while testing the R2 in the midi i found using two in the front intake one OE in forward position in roof (feeds CPU cooler pretty well).
> and OE fan in rear exhaust. R2 in the side panel if you are running a hot GPU. and fan can be painted (lightly) to reflect your scheme.
> once i get all the fan details finished, whip out the rattle can or air-brush and finish the details.
> airdeano


So you're saying to run the top forward position as an intake? and only exhaust being the rear most fan?

With the R2's being that quiet i probably wouldn't even need the fan controller.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*
> 
> So you're saying to run the top forward position as an intake? and only exhaust being the rear most fan?
> With the R2's being that quiet i probably wouldn't even need the fan controller.


yep, yep, and yep...

roof front position OE fractal fan
rear exhaust OE fractal fan
2 x R2 fans in the front intake and your rolling for little dollars. and
no painting...

i'm using 2 x BGears 140 on mine under-volted until i get the
280 rad for the front intake. painted blades white (to match scheme)



so far as an air-cooled case it is pretty chilly in their with an ambient 28°-32°
d14 @ 4.8 1.39vcore 80° avg core ambient 30.3° (@ 12-volt)





worked up to the Corsair H100
H100 @ 4.8 1.39vcore 77° avg core ambient 29.7° (perf w/push)
H100 @ 4.8 1.39vcore 74° avg core ambient 30.2° (perf w/push/pull)




then to a simple CPU - RX240 water loop
RASA RX240 @ 4.8 1.39vcore 68° avg core ambient 31.7° (push)
RASA RX240 @ 4.8 1.39vcore 65° avg core ambient 31.7° (push/pull)





airdeano


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*
> 
> So you're saying to run the top forward position as an intake? and only exhaust being the rear most fan?
> With the R2's being that quiet i probably wouldn't even need the fan controller.


2x intakes front, 1x exhaust rear. If you feel like you could use some more exhaust, then put an exhaust fan to the rearmost top. My mini is all good with 2x 800rpm intakes and 1x 1000rpm exhaust through a rad.


----------



## Balli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AHabit*
> 
> 3x140? i want to see that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you show me a picture?


you apparently missed it?
3 pages before this post:
my arc


----------



## Diesel Phreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> yep, yep, and yep...
> roof front position OE fractal fan
> rear exhaust OE fractal fan
> 2 x R2 fans in the front intake and your rolling for little dollars. and
> no painting...


Cool deal, sounds like i got a plan down. Can't wait to get this case.


----------



## airdeano

just an idea to flip over...



what do you think?

all the heat is on top, roof exhaust is useful (air colled or water-cooling) GPU heat is
on top and front intake air is plowed straight to the CPU cooler stack. PSU wont
interfere with large CPU coolers. solid side-panel can be modded for large window.
HDD cages are reversable to have cables in rear.

just plying around... just looking for 15-25mm ontop for better clearance of radiators.

airdeano


----------



## n0n44m

Finished my watercooled *Fractal Design Define XL* !







see Build Log in sig for more pics/details


----------



## misterD

Damn n0n44m so nice, woman and hardware, i LOVE IT









But dust, i do not like


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *misterD*
> 
> Damn n0n44m so nice, woman and hardware, i LOVE IT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But dust, i do not like
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i installed 140mm air filters on the back of my fans when i removed the front
sponge filter. eliminated the round dust circles and was quiet appealing, too.


you just gotta remember to service this filter and others regularly.

airdeano


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's update I did to my rig.


Silverstone dust filters.


And gtx 670.


----------



## nvidia3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> malik I saw all your projects in xs from the atcs 840 to the fractal XL and i Convinced ac or lc this build going to be amazing:thumb:


----------



## Kyronn94

Hello Fractal Owners









In an attempt to make my main rig smaller, I combined the 2 rigs in my sig and came up with this:



Everything fits perfectly fine, however as expected, it now runs very very hot.
My GPU is now idling at about 60 degrees.
Even my 2TB Hard Drive get hot to the touch.
As you can see in the picture, my 6950 has very little room to breath.

The specs are:

Fractal Design Core 1000
Asus M5A78L-M/USB3
Phenom II X4 955 @ 3.2GHz (Stock)
Noctua NH-C14
4 x 2GB Corsair XMS
64GB Crucial M4
2TB WD Green
Sapphire HD6950 2GB
Corsair HX650W

I was thinking of getting the Fractal Design Arc Mini to replace my core 1000.

How good is the Arc Mini in terms of GPU cooling?
Clearly the floor fan in my 690II was more useful than I thought!








Would this give me better cooling performance over my Core 1000?
I would be using the D14 over the C14 in the Arc Mini.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> I was thinking of getting the Fractal Design Arc Mini to replace my core 1000.
> 
> How good is the Arc Mini in terms of GPU cooling?
> Clearly the floor fan in my 690II was more useful than I thought!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would this give me better cooling performance over my Core 1000?
> I would be using the D14 over the C14 in the Arc Mini.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


That's what I did a while ago







You're using a side panel fan on the Core 1000, yes? One thing you could try is getting better fans.

I'd say that GPU cooling is pretty good in Arc mini, with 2 Bitfenix Spectre pro's running @5v as front intakes my 7870 is idling at 15C over ambient, without either side panel or bottom fan. You can see pics of my hardware in both cases by clicking the link on my sig.


----------



## llibert333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> can anyone mount force mount 120mm fan @ the back of the Core 1000?


You can use a fan adapter at the outside.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2854


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> just an idea to flip over...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you think?


well, scored another case to franken-flip the mobo tray. looks like another mod link/guide
in the future for Fractal FrankenFlip. should be the last part of next-week before i get the case

airdeano


----------



## toyz72

i already own an arc mini, but this is the one i'm waiting on:thumb: this case has me pretty excited about going itx.

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=94

anyone else checking out the node series?


----------



## MiiX

Yea, i was wondering about something like that for a workstation for my parents as their computer is slow, it takes around 5 minutes to tuen on, its using vista(I knwo, sucks) and i cannot go Ubuntu as my dad uses some custom made windows-based program from work. It sucks :\ But i was thinking of fitting a H40 and a low-speed fan.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> ..... i cannot go Ubuntu as my dad uses some custom made windows-based program from work.


you can use a Virtual Machine to setup Ubuntu for XP or vista or whatever is needed or dual boot.

airdeano


----------



## MiiX

Its way to hard for them to do that, and they want to use Windows, so yeah, im stuck there.


----------



## llibert333

Any ideas to mount the Lian Li Aluminium DVD Cover in the Fractal Design Core 1000?


----------



## AbdullahG

The Core 1000 Bay covers mount using a snap-on system:







If you can cut down and somewhat curve the edge of the DVD cover (you might be able to fit it without curving the edge), you can possible mount it on the Core 1000 Bay.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llibert333*
> 
> Any ideas to mount the Lian Li Aluminium DVD Cover in the Fractal Design Core 1000?


What's the point? Core 1000 has mech panels in the front and this one is brushed aluminium. It's not gonna match properly.


----------



## MiiX

looks better than a standard DVD cover...


----------



## Kyronn94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> That's what I did a while ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're using a side panel fan on the Core 1000, yes? One thing you could try is getting better fans.
> I'd say that GPU cooling is pretty good in Arc mini, with 2 Bitfenix Spectre pro's running @5v as front intakes my 7870 is idling at 15C over ambient, without either side panel or bottom fan. You can see pics of my hardware in both cases by clicking the link on my sig.


I am yes, I can't put a side panel fan in my Core 1000, my C14 is in the way.
I discovered one reason for my high idle temperatures though, a SATA cable was stopping one of the fans on my graphics card from spinning








Now idling at about 45 to 50.

I'm still going to go with the Arc Mini though, I know the point of mATX is that it's smaller, but I think that all of my components could do with a bit more room to breathe.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> What's the point? Core 1000 has mech panels in the front and this one is brushed aluminium. It's not gonna match properly.


And a crappy plastic DVD tray matches even less. And it would be easy enough to paint the lian li a nice black to match the rest of the case so that you don't see the anodizing / brushed aluminium.


----------



## Charlie--

@ llibert333 - Use the mesh bay cover from the Core 1000 line the back of it, add foam etc and make it into a stealth DVD cover, similar to what I did with the Arc Midi.


----------



## llibert333

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @ llibert333 - Use the mesh bay cover from the Core 1000 line the back of it, add foam etc and make it into a stealth DVD cover, similar to what I did with the Arc Midi.


I though about do that but I think that if I do it, it will break at the firs week...


----------



## arbysovenmitt

What would be a good fan or two to add to the R4? I'd like to keep the black/white theme if possible. Are there any obvious choices?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Fractal Silent Series R2 Fans are supposed to be quite good.


----------



## Blizlake

Bitfenix's Spectres and Spectre Pro's are great fans, come in pure black and pure white (and loads of different led choices, too).
I've got 2 of both the regular and pro's. The regular spectres are practically inaudible from roughly one meter away.


----------



## JureS

Hi guys, I just got my arc midi case the other day and this is what came out of it









I will replace the included fans as soon as I get some extra money. For now, they seem to be doing a decent job and the 120mm akasa viper at the bottom is helping keep the temps down as well. Now I am wondering, does anybody know of a supplier or e-tailer in Europe from whom I could order a windowed side panel and an extra front panel for this puppy? I only found the items on NCIX and they don't ship internationally.

If anyone has any suggestions about the cable management or anything, fell free to add







.

J


----------



## Shrak

Thinking about grabbing a Midi from Craigslist for $60. Don't really have a spare system to put in it, but it's plenty cheap. Love my XL and R2, just adding to the collection i guess.


----------



## arbysovenmitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Fractal Silent Series R2 Fans are supposed to be quite good.


Where can you buy these? I can't find a link anywhere.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> And a crappy plastic DVD tray matches even less. And it would be easy enough to paint the lian li a nice black to match the rest of the case so that you don't see the anodizing / brushed aluminium.


Attaching an aluminium mech cover and making a stealth bay would be much easier and cleaner looking.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Thinking about grabbing a Midi from Craigslist for $60. Don't really have a spare system to put in it, but it's plenty cheap. Love my XL and R2, just adding to the collection i guess.


Not if I get it first!


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Not if I get it first!


I will hunt you down and keel you. I would be more motivated if I had a spare motherboard laying around









BTW, a bit off the topic of FD. This looks awfully familiar... http://norfolk.craigslist.org/sys/3106839537.html


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> I will hunt you down and keel you. I would be more motivated if I had a spare motherboard laying around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, a bit off the topic of FD. This looks awfully familiar... http://norfolk.craigslist.org/sys/3106839537.html


Well dang, you can have it!

Yeah, my buddy is moving to Panama next week and his wife wanted him to sell it. So he put it on Craigslist for a ridiculous amount hoping no one will want it. He's Keeping it since no ones bought it. Im gonna miss that rig.









.......I offered $50.00.


----------



## ekg84

made some serious changes to my rig







got new feet, new fans, new power supply that i fully sleeved so now it perfectly matches FD color scheme







, installed my new z77 sabertooth which IMO looks simply fantastic and here is the rig!







Those front fans are new NZXT Flow series fans - they look really nice and move serious amount of air, so i definetily recommend them!

Thoughts?


----------



## Blizlake

Very nice ekg







Clean and professional look, love how the Sabertooth blends in.
I wish my rig would look as clean as yours does








Maybe some day I'll get around to sleeving some cables and getting rest of the gear that I need for completing my rig...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> made some serious changes to my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got new feet, new fans, new power supply that i fully sleeved so now it perfectly matches FD color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , installed my new z77 sabertooth which IMO looks simply fantastic and here is the rig!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those front fans are new NZXT Flow series fans - they look really nice and move serious amount of air, so i definetily recommend them!
> Thoughts?


That is a sick rig! Love that front panel! What's the dBA on those fans? Do you have pictures of the front panel mod?


----------



## Blizlake

ekg's front panel mod can be found here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1120835/fractial-core-3000-front-panel-mod

Fan specs can be found here:
120mm
140mm

ekg's rig is one of my personal favourites


----------



## adi518

Ekg, that pink fan, is it the Enermax Vegas that you had before or a new one? I don't remember the blue and red mixing so hard into pink so I wonder. Absolutely stunning, I take inspiration.

Btw, Ekg, if you sell that custom front panel I'll buy it and I think others will too.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Very nice ekg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean and professional look, love how the Sabertooth blends in.
> I wish my rig would look as clean as yours does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe some day I'll get around to sleeving some cables and getting rest of the gear that I need for completing my rig...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That is a sick rig! Love that front panel! What's the dBA on those fans? Do you have pictures of the front panel mod?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> ekg's front panel mod can be found here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1120835/fractial-core-3000-front-panel-mod
> Fan specs can be found here:
> 120mm
> 140mm
> ekg's rig is one of my personal favourites


Thanx for nice comments guys!

@ Bizlake that front panel mod is slightly outdated but i will update it with new pictures today








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Ekg, that pink fan, is it the Enermax Vegas that you had before or a new one? I don't remember the blue and red mixing so hard into pink so I wonder. Absolutely stunning, I take inspiration.
> Btw, Ekg, if you sell that custom front panel I'll buy it and I think others will too.


Yeap, that is my old enermax vegas duo, actually in person light mixing from blue and red led's looks more purple than pink







I appreciate your comment btw, im kinda glad so many people liked the result









P.S. I didnt thin about selling these panels but i think it could be a good idea


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> made some serious changes to my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got new feet, new fans, new power supply that i fully sleeved so now it perfectly matches FD color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , installed my new z77 sabertooth which IMO looks simply fantastic and here is the rig!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those front fans are new NZXT Flow series fans - they look really nice and move serious amount of air, so i definetily recommend them!
> Thoughts?


Gorgeous!







How's the dust issue with those front fans completely unfiltered?


----------



## Greenbean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> P.S. I didnt thin about selling these panels but i think it could would be a good idea


Fixed that for you.

Another awesome modification to an already beautiful project.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Gorgeous!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's the dust issue with those front fans completely unfiltered?


Thank you kindly







Honestly i kinda like to clean my rig once a week or so. But even after a week its not bad, i dont have pets - that coolit eco radiator gets a little dusty but that is pretty much it.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Thank you kindly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly i kinda like to clean my rig once a week or so. But even after a week its not bad, i dont have pets - that coolit eco radiator gets a little dusty but that is pretty much it.


I have a dog and cat here and have my FT02's 3*180mm fans unfiltered. Rarely ever gets bad in it at all, and I still regularly clean it out once every week or 2. Same with my Define XL.

Great build btw


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

I hope i uploaded this right, so am I in? =)

Edit: Does anyone have pictures of an arc case with LED fans? I really want to put some on my PC =)
.
Another edit: is anybody having issues putting in HDDs in? I screw them in to the caddy all the way but i just can't get the caddy in all the way when there's two drives near eachother. I only have 4 drives and if i can fix this i'd remove the top drive cage, but I really don't wanna force anything in there it seems cruel haha, thanks in advance!


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @ llibert333 - Use the mesh bay cover from the Core 1000 line the back of it, add foam etc and make it into a stealth DVD cover, similar to what I did with the Arc Midi.


Wow that's really cool what you did with the DVD drive on your arc midi, how'd you do that?


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> made some serious changes to my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got new feet, new fans, new power supply that i fully sleeved so now it perfectly matches FD color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , installed my new z77 sabertooth which IMO looks simply fantastic and here is the rig!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those front fans are new NZXT Flow series fans - they look really nice and move serious amount of air, so i definetily recommend them!
> Thoughts?


I want that case! It looks so awesome. I was thinking about getting new fans and recently wanted some LED ones. Have the NZXT given you any problems? I wonder if I should go with the Vegas Duo or the NZXT? Since I have the foam dampening crap on my Midi, it wouldn't do me much in the front but I was hoping for one on the rear.


----------



## adi518

Ekg, I just looked at the tray picture in bigger view and wow, you really put that cpu cable under the mobo? No cpu gromit?









I also have another question about the Enermax fan, I understand that you made it work with the radiator but how? Isn't it 3 pin? I mean, it's not even PWM.


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*


Love the look of that Rear Fan


----------



## adi518

I've come to a certain conclusion.

It's much more fun, and better looking to get a NON modular PSU and mod it like that. Funny, because I like my X-560 but sort of regret I didn't just get a cheaper non-modular unit and sleeve it. It's even slightly easier to manage cables that way.


----------



## dhughesuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Bitfenix's Spectres and Spectre Pro's are great fans, come in pure black and pure white (and loads of different led choices, too).
> I've got 2 of both the regular and pro's. The regular spectres are practically inaudible from roughly one meter away.


I find the non-led version (regular) emits a clicky noise where the LED version doesn't. I have no idea why this is, maybe they use a different bearing or I received a duff batch but every Led Spectre I own is amazingly quiet and great value.


----------



## Blizlake

I dunno, my regular spectres are amazingly quiet without any clickiness at all. I'm a bit puzzled though 'cause my regular spectre makes practically no noise at all @12V but the Pro's are like small hurricanes @12V (they do push good amount of air though)


----------



## downlinx

will get pictures up as soon as my R4 arrives, hehe.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I'm a bit puzzled though 'cause my regular spectre makes practically no noise at all @12V but the Pro's are like small hurricanes @12V (they do push good amount of air though)


thats why they call 'em pro...*grin* and now in PWM, too

airdeano


----------



## bortoloj

I made a side panel on my Arc mini it's not perfect but it's very cool


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xK1LLSW1TCHx127*
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of an arc case with LED fans? I really want to put some on my PC =)


Heres mine before i removed the dust filter











And after i removed the filter (not sure which you were after)



Fans off


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukegrimbley*
> 
> Heres mine before i removed the dust filter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And after i removed the filter (not sure which you were after)
> 
> Fans off


Awesome just what I was looking for! Thank you!


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> I made a side panel on my Arc mini it's not perfect but it's very cool


That looks really nice! Good work.

I am going to take out the bottom cage for my Midi soon. I looked at some videos of how to get the rivet out but I don't want to use a drill bit and just drill in the center. Is there not anyway I can take it out and reuse the rivet if I want to put it back later?


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> That looks really nice! Good work.
> I am going to take out the bottom cage for my Midi soon. I looked at some videos of how to get the rivet out but I don't want to use a drill bit and just drill in the center. Is there not anyway I can take it out and reuse the rivet if I want to put it back later?


Nope, You have to drill the rivet out AFAIK. I removed both my HDD cages. and if I want to put them back in, I just gotta pop rivet again. No big deal. I will actually have to do that sometime in the next 3 months when I move to Node 304


----------



## dhughesuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I dunno, my regular spectres are amazingly quiet without any clickiness at all. I'm a bit puzzled though 'cause my regular spectre makes practically no noise at all @12V but the Pro's are like small hurricanes @12V (they do push good amount of air though)


ah cool, hopefully it was a bad batch - I've sadly advised people off the non-LED ones in favour of the LED ones because of this. still the LED's can be turned off so no harm really :-s


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> That looks really nice! Good work.
> I am going to take out the bottom cage for my Midi soon. I looked at some videos of how to get the rivet out but I don't want to use a drill bit and just drill in the center. Is there not anyway I can take it out and reuse the rivet if I want to put it back later?


Yup, has to be drilled, but its no problem getting it back in. just buy a pop rivet gun or and some pop rivets


----------



## Malik

Arc Beta Version ...


----------



## senna89

Have this ARC MIDI model some frame problem like RC690 for example VGA or Soundcard whit the bracket that does not fit fully, or whit bracket that cant touch the frame to be properly tightened, or brackets are not perfectly straight ( horizontal ) ?

*In final the PCI cards always enter and remain perfectly aligned and symmetrical?*

Or the cheap manufactory is evident ?


----------



## CooperJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Arc Beta Version ...


That is amazing love how clean the beast is, good work man









Cooper


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Arc Beta Version ...


Whats that black box in the corner down on the leftright side?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Whats that black box in the corner down on the leftright side?


Looks like a hdd cooler enclosure


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Whats that black box in the corner down on the leftright side?


This is Scythe Himuro

More photos:













In progress:

- custom cover for aquaero and blu-ray drive
- custom window
- custom leather/carbon interior cover


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> Nope, You have to drill the rivet out AFAIK. I removed both my HDD cages. and if I want to put them back in, I just gotta pop rivet again. No big deal. I will actually have to do that sometime in the next 3 months when I move to Node 304


Thanks for the help. What size drill bit did you use? 1/8?

Also was wondering if anyone did an entire acrylic side panel for the Midi? I was on another forum looking and some guy did it for around $50. I am looking online on how to do this but I don't even know what size I should get it. They measure the length and width in inches. Also how thick should it be?


----------



## Shrak

Yes 1/8 bit for removing rivets


----------



## ahzrukhal

Thanks for confirming.

Still wondering how big the side panel case would be? I would try to find a nearby plastics shop so they can do the measuring, but that would cost $50+. I hoping someone can tell me how big it is and buy it on eBay for around $20.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

The side panel is 480mm wide by 440mm high so if you get a piece of acrylic that size along with some magnetic strips (20mm wide) then I think you'd be good to go. I've got a 3mm thick sheet here and it sits flush with the front panel but in my opinion it's quite flimsy so I'd probably go up to 5mm and just ignore the slight protrusion.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> The side panel is 480mm wide by 440mm high so if you get a piece of acrylic that size along with some magnetic strips (20mm wide) then I think you'd be good to go. I've got a 3mm thick sheet here and it sits flush with the front panel but in my opinion it's quite flimsy so I'd probably go up to 5mm and just ignore the slight protrusion.


Thanks! +rep

However the site I'm using measures everything in inches. I tried converting the mm to inches but even then they don't have an option. I'm afraid if I bought it it'll be a little big or a little too small.

480mm ~ 18.8976 in

440mm ~ 17.3228 in

Same thing applies with their thickness. The best I could go was 3/16 of an inch which ~ 4.7625mm. The 1/4 inch would be 6.35mm. Would that be too thick?

Sorry if sounds noobish but never done this kind of modding before.


----------



## Blizlake

Silly americans with your inches and gallons...









Take a slightly bigger piece and make it smaller. I'd pick the 3/16" thick one, 1/4" would be too thick imo.


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Have this ARC MIDI model some frame problem like RC690 for example VGA or Soundcard whit the bracket that does not fit fully, or whit bracket that cant touch the frame to be properly tightened, or brackets are not perfectly straight ( horizontal ) ?
> *In final the PCI cards always enter and remain perfectly aligned and symmetrical?*
> Or the cheap manufactory is evident ?


talking about serious things
help ?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Have this ARC MIDI model some frame problem like RC690 for example VGA or Soundcard whit the bracket that does not fit fully, or whit bracket that cant touch the frame to be properly tightened, or brackets are not perfectly straight ( horizontal ) ?
> *In final the PCI cards always enter and remain perfectly aligned and symmetrical?*
> Or the cheap manufactory is evident ?
> 
> 
> 
> talking about serious things
> help ?
Click to expand...

If I understood your post correctly:
On my Arc Mini everything aligns perfectly, including the expansion slots you seem to be worried about. All Fractal cases I've seen have great quality, even the cheap Core 1000 (not as good as the more expensive cases, but still good).


----------



## ahzrukhal

How did you guys cut circles around the fans in the front? I want to do that!


----------



## dhughesuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> This is Scythe Himuro
> More photos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In progress:
> - custom cover for aquaero and blu-ray drive
> - custom window
> - custom leather/carbon interior cover


love the shots, what camera are you using? I can't wait for my R4 so I dare do this with my PC


----------



## Malik

Im using two camers: nikon d700 and nikon d90... and 6 lens


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Im using two camers: nikon d700 and nikon d90... and 6 lens


Yeah the regular User I see...









BTW: My 550D with its 3 lens does a pretty good job as well









Here is a little teaser of what I´m doing while my summer holidays:


----------



## dhughesuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Im using two camers: nikon d700 and nikon d90... and 6 lens


Ah, that d700 is supposed to be fantastic, even the d90 I've played with impressed me....

Nice job!


----------



## Malik

Both body are great. Primary body is d700, d90 is my backup. Here some other of my shots: 500px


----------



## Blizlake

I've got a D90 and a couple of lenses: fantastic body for the price.


----------



## AbdullahG

Yeah, my cellphone camera's pretty good too...


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Yeah, my cellphone camera's pretty good too...


Mines horrible


----------



## Theloudtrout

At least your phone has a camera.


----------



## arbysovenmitt

I just received my R4. It's a beauty. I can't wait to see what you dudes do to it.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arbysovenmitt*
> 
> I just received my R4. It's a beauty. I can't wait to see what you dudes do to it.


Pictures or it didn't happen


----------



## ahzrukhal

Was wondering if anyone can answer my question on how you cut the circles around the fans in the front? Did you just trace around the outer rim of the fan? What did you cut it with?


----------



## arbysovenmitt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Pictures or it didn't happen


Yes sir.


----------



## Shrak

Gotta love the Define series


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Was wondering if anyone can answer my question on how you cut the circles around the fans in the front? Did you just trace around the outer rim of the fan? What did you cut it with?


i guess it depends on what material u r trying to cut, i have used This hole saw


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> i guess it depends on what material u r trying to cut, i have used This hole saw


First of all, I tried removing the foam on the front but I couldn't. I was afraid I was going to bend the front if I tried anymore. Is it possible to remove or do I have to cut the hole myself?


----------



## airdeano

dude, you sure are making it hard on this easy case...
are you sure you can't get that foam out?
it's like 8-tabs to straighten on the metal grill and it'll fall off.


turn power off
remove right side panel (behind motherboard panel)
disconnect power leads to fan(s) (note connetion position)
remove front panel assembly (sharp tug on lower panel)
remove fan(s) use care on fan clips. use enough pressure to lift fan(s) out of carrier
around the periemeter of fan area, there are metal tabs bent inward. stand the tabs upward 90°
once all tabs are straightened, apply slightforce to back of grill through the panel supports
grill and foam filter should release
to assembly, use reverse order
airdeano


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> dude, you sure are making it hard on this easy case...
> are you sure you can't get that foam out?
> it's like 8-tabs to straighten on the metal grill and it'll fall off.
> 
> turn power off
> remove right side panel (behind motherboard panel)
> disconnect power leads to fan(s) (note connetion position)
> remove front panel assembly (sharp tug on lower panel)
> remove fan(s) use care on fan clips. use enough pressure to lift fan(s) out of carrier
> around the periemeter of fan area, there are metal tabs bent inward. stand the tabs upward 90°
> once all tabs are straightened, apply slightforce to back of grill through the panel supports
> grill and foam filter should release
> to assembly, use reverse order
> airdeano


It seems like everything is hard to take out in my case. I need to apply so much pressure. I tried taking the thumbscrews on the back and a normal screwdriver wouldn't cut it. I needed a power drill. But thanks for the guide, I will definitely try it again later!


----------



## ahzrukhal

Finally decided to take some picture of my case. No GPU as of yet. Cable management may look crappy.



Hoping to get some vinyl and put it over the 5.25 bays and the PSU.


----------



## Shrak

If you aren't using the top 3.5" bays you might as well unscrew the plastic guides, will help clean up the look a bit


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> Finally decided to take some picture of my case. No GPU as of yet. Cable management may look crappy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping to get some vinyl and put it over the 5.25 bays and the PSU.


Very nice so far







- I see that the Arc now has a totally black USB3 cable, it used to be all blue, mine has a black cable with blue plug and I see your one is all black - I really like how FD listen to its customers









P.S. Don't forget to get that window panel for the Arc Midi & Mini out, will you now FD people


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Very nice so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I see that the Arc now has a totally black USB3 cable, it used to be all blue, mine has a black cable with blue plug and I see your one is all black - I really like how FD listen to its customers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Don't forget to get that window panel for the Arc Midi & Mini out, will you now FD people


Thanks a lot! Looks really plain now, but I'll get around to doing some adjustments. Right after I uplaoded that pic my ASUS 7850 came, but I won't bother posting any more pics. Too lazy right now.









I will definitely buy the Midi window, if it ever comes out. I get one email saying they are working on it and another saying they have plans, but haven't started. I will wait a couple of more months and if they still won't release one, I'll just do it myself.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Very nice so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I see that the Arc now has a totally black USB3 cable, it used to be all blue, mine has a black cable with blue plug and I see your one is all black - I really like how FD listen to its customers


Black sleeving and heatshrink - problem solved.


----------



## Theloudtrout

Or just a quick spray with black paint if it's just the plug.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Black sleeving and heatshrink - problem solved.


So you have done that with the USB3 cable on a FD case?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> Or just a quick spray with black paint if it's just the plug.


Yep that is an idea, but I like the blue n black look of the cable I have


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> So you have done that with the USB3 cable on a FD case?


No, I don't have OCD about color schematics in my case.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> No, I don't have OCD about color schematics in my case.


Thought you had not done it as your answer was "Black sleeving and heatshrink - problem solved." - Which would not help one bit with the USB 3 plug & cable - Regardless of whether you do or don't have OCD and others might when it comes to colour schemes, your suggestion was not very helpful.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just ordered some new fans and a few other bits and pieces. I'll post a pic when it's done.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Thought you had not done it as your answer was "Black sleeving and heatshrink - problem solved." - Which would not help one bit with the USB 3 plug & cable - Regardless of whether you do or don't have OCD and others might when it comes to colour schemes, your suggestion was not very helpful.


You know what, now I will make it just to prove that it really is a solution and it is helpful. Will post pictures soon.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just ordered some new fans and a few other bits and pieces. I'll post a pic when it's done.


What fans did you get and what for?


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> You know what, now I will make it just to prove that it really is a solution and it is helpful. Will post pictures soon.


It's doable. Might leave a small tip of the connector blue, but it's doable. I would have done it with heatshrink+sleeve if mine wasn't already black.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> What fans did you get and what for?


I bought 3x Phobya G-Silent 14 1100rpm Red LED fans. 2 for the front and 1 for the rear. When I get paid I'm going to get some 120mm fans in red to replace my AP-15s because I never used them any higher than 800rpm and they're grey.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I bought 3x Phobya G-Silent 14 1100rpm Red LED fans. 2 for the front and 1 for the rear. When I get paid I'm going to get some 120mm fans in red to replace my AP-15s because I never used them any higher than 800rpm and they're grey.


I have this fans and they are great


----------



## Kaneda13

just in case anyone is looking:


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> I have this fans and they are great


I bought them after seeing them look so good in your rig. Also bought some Phobya PCI Plate Airslots in black. Just need to paint my HDD trays black and there will be a lot less white in my build.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> just in case anyone is looking:


papa needs some spare parts!

airdeano


----------



## Silaz

Does anyone know if I could squeeze the Corsair AX1200 Gold into the Define XL? The literature states that the max is 180mm long PSU and the AX1200 Gold is 200mm. However, in review websites it looks like there is ample room even if I have to avoid using the cable management hole.


----------



## Shrak

Should be enough room. If not you can simply pop the rivets on the closest hard drive cage. If you're not planning on filling them, that is.


----------



## candy_van

You guys think a 12mm exhaust fan would fit inside an Arc Mini with a H100 configured as below?



(found these on overclockers.uk)

Looks pretty tight, but I think it might work if I use a fan grill.
I know I could fit a regular 25mm or 20mm fan in the exhaust with the tubing facing the other direction, but I'd prefer the other way (makes it easier to access stuff when needed).


----------



## Shrak

Yes.

And I personally like the tubes going the other way on closed loops like the H100 in that picture. Since mostly every 5.25 device will slide in from the front. There's no real issues.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *candy_van*
> 
> You guys think a 12mm exhaust fan would fit inside an Arc Mini with a H100 configured as below?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (found these on overclockers.uk)
> Looks pretty tight, but I think it might work if I use a fan grill.
> I know I could fit a regular 25mm or 20mm fan in the exhaust with the tubing facing the other direction, but I'd prefer the other way (makes it easier to access stuff when needed).


yes, they will fit, these are they ones i'm using in my Mini, i've just painted the blades white to match my color scheme.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> no, they won't fit, but these will. it's what ihave in the back of my Mini, i've just painted the blades white.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You just contradicted your answer, lol.

He asked if a 12mm fan would fit, you said no, then continued to say a 12mm fan would fit and you even used one.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> You just contradicted your answer, lol.
> He asked if a 12mm fan would fit, you said no, then continued to say a 12mm fan would fit and you even used one.


yeah, i was speed reading, saw the 20 25mm question, then i fixed my answer.


----------



## lurker2501

Almost done sleeving. Funny, but when i dissassembled the front panel and took it off I managed to reset my bios to the default setting and kill my win 7 boot files and overclock somehow. Well, i guess beauty goes with a price.







Will post the final pics tomorrow probably.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Almost done sleeving. Funny, but when i dissassembled the front panel and took it off I managed to reset my bios to the default setting and kill my win 7 boot files and overclock somehow. Well, i guess beauty goes with a price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post the final pics tomorrow probably.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great!


----------



## ad3ath

Hi, I want to order a Fractal Arc Midi.

Looking for advice on what fans to use in there. Currently have a Silencio 550 and it's not cool enough for me. Wish I had got the Arc in the first place. Just got 2 Corsair AF120's for the Silencio, they helped but because of the acoustic foam etc it's still struggles.

Will be happy to turn fans up while gaming, but otherwise want a pretty quiet Arc.

As for aesthetics I have a D-14 and a Bitfenix Recon Fan Controller, would look nice with white LED's. Also a white Be Quiet 600w PSU with white flat cables. Cheap red VTX 7970 lol.

Are the stock fans 'ok'? Worth using as the 3 intakes instead?
200mm or 2x140mm in top?
White or white and blue theme inside? Or both?
I am more concerned about having a good noise to CFM ratio than bling bling.
Any place in case where I should be using SP fans?
How do you guys deal with the holes in the side window? (I hate dust!) End of year Fractal will release a side window for the case and I will buy. Can I swap the side panels around till then?
Love to get some feedback on this. Seen some lovely builds in here.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Hi, I want to order a Fractal Arc Midi.


you'll like the case really well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> 
> Are the stock fans 'ok'? Worth using as the 3 intakes instead?
> 200mm or 2x140mm in top?
> White or white and blue theme inside? Or both?
> I am more concerned about having a good noise to CFM ratio than bling bling.
> Any place in case where I should be using SP fans?
> How do you guys deal with the holes in the side window? (I hate dust!) End of year Fractal will release a side window for the case and I will buy. Can I swap the side panels around till then?


a. stock fans are MEAH... the R2 fans would have been a better "stock" fan, but i digress..
a. if you plan to keep the HDD cages, you'll need some 60cfm+ to breach the obstruction.
a. there are no 200mm mounts in the case anywhere (fab up or pass) the roof will accept 120/140mm fans
a. as for theme that is your call
a.the case is spacious, especially without the HDD cages installed. which can lend to echo. i plan to batten
the sides with a noise-reducing material to dampen any issues.
a. should? not really, unless you want to use it on the D14 or water-cooling in the future.
a. make a block off plate or make a window panel out of it... yes, you can swap them around as well (blocked off or fanned)

you might wanna go through some of the members sig rigs to find some areas you'd like to have and some that you'd change

not to rush you, but newegg has a discount on the Midi $70 shipped...
EMCYTZT1978 only good till 07/31/2012 12:00pm (PDT)
my two are order already...

airdeano


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> I have this fans and they are great


How do you like them? I was planning on going red too but was looking at the NZXT FZ 140mm. I will do some research and see which one is better.

I like your case too. Nice job.


----------



## candy_van

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Yes.
> And I personally like the tubes going the other way on closed loops like the H100 in that picture. Since mostly every 5.25 device will slide in from the front. There's no real issues.


Yea it wouldn't be a big deal to have it forward I'm sure; just find it more aesthetically pleasing the other way I guess (case-shui lol).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> yes, they will fit, these are they ones i'm using in my Mini, i've just painted the blades white to match my color scheme.*snip*


Yep, exact one I was lookin' at there - looks great painted too







, would go perfect w/ the swiftech helixs I have


----------



## ad3ath

Wow, thank you for your reply.

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/2230 This is a 200mm fan installed at top, not sure if it's better than 2 140's though.

As for echo I think I can live with that. I will be removing the top hard drive cage and changing to an SSD in future. Just need to decide what fans and I will be good to go...

I live in the UK so I think newegg is too far for me. overclockers.co.uk has the midi pretty cheap and free shipping. Has decent fan selection too...hard to choose though as don't see many 14cm reviews.

Perhaps I should just get all 140mm AF140 Corsair fans? They look nice and are good if you are careful with the mounting them. Would prefer something cheaper though... 6 AF120 is about £60.

Will check back after work, and look at some more builds.


----------



## Blizlake

Code:

The midi has 180mm fan mounts up top so yeah, you can mount a 200mm fan in there depending on fan spacing. Bitfenix Spectre pros have that spacing IIRC, but you should check that from a bitfenix rep. Bigger fans make less noise so if you want top exhaust, a big one is a good choice.

Do you mean that AF140 costs 10 pounds? How can they be so cheap there, those fans are barely cheaper than noctuas here afaik...
But good 140mm fans: Bitfenix Spectre (Pro), NZXT FZ-140, Noiseblocker PK-series, Akasa vipers/apaches.


----------



## SoftIceMan

Hi, I'm a big fan of that Case and here are some Pics of mine















420 Radi in Top, 280 Radi in Front and 140 Radi on the Floor.

Maybe I need to find a better place for the Lightchain...


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoftIceMan*
> 
> Hi, I'm a big fan of that Case and here are some Pics of mine


Wow, awesome work ! I love the blue+white color scheme.


----------



## SoftIceMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Wow, awesome work ! I love the blue+white color scheme.


Thank you, I need to get a better Cam. Than I will make some better Pics, with closed Sidepanel.
Its difficult to make fotos with window in the sidepanel...


----------



## Egameman

hey guys n girls









I was able to get a Arc Mini for a small price, and I¨m heading out to buy WC parts.

Going to cool a 3570 K and a EVga 670 FTW.

Is there room for a 60mm thick 360 rad in the top if I remove all drive bays and HDD cages ? I will be using corsair low profile memory

SOrry for asking and not reading trough all the 354 pages, but I dont have a car, so driving for 1 hour to get to the watercooling shop, and I¨m going soon







and dont have the time right now.

HOpe someone could help me =) =


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> hey guys n girls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get a Arc Mini for a small price, and I¨m heading out to buy WC parts.
> Going to cool a 3570 K and a EVga 670 FTW.
> Is there room for a 60mm thick 360 rad in the top if I remove all drive bays and HDD cages ? I will be using corsair low profile memory
> SOrry for asking and not reading trough all the 354 pages, but I dont have a car, so driving for 1 hour to get to the watercooling shop, and I¨m going soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and dont have the time right now.
> HOpe someone could help me =) =


you should be fine, i'm using 25mm hick fans, a 14mm thick spacer, and a 36mm thick rad for a total of 75mm. a 60mm rad with 25 mm fans would only be 10mm thicker, and i don't see anything that would be in the way. i'm using Corsair XMS3 memory, and the radiator goes overtop of them fine. the only other thing to watch, if if you board has tall heat sinks on the mosfets, they could get in the way too. with the XMS3, i've got about the width of a finger between the rad and the tops of the memory.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Bigger fans make more noise so if you want top exhaust, a big one is a good choice.


Did you mean make less noise? AF140 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Series-Edition-Airflow-Single/dp/B007RESGGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343733156&sr=8-1 £8.15, absolutely crazy price! Cheaper than my double pack of AF120 that I have if I buy two lol. Gonna get the case and the AF140s!







Maybe a white cathode at some point too.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Did you mean make less noise? AF140 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Series-Edition-Airflow-Single/dp/B007RESGGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343733156&sr=8-1 £8.15, absolutely crazy price! Cheaper than my double pack of AF120 that I have if I buy two lol. Gonna get the case and the AF140s!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a white cathode at some point too.


+£5 for delivery.

£9.91 if you get it from Amazon and next day if you're a prime member.

I just bought 2x SP120s for H100.


----------



## AbdullahG

Hey Kaneda13, did you ever run your GTX 470 with the reference cooler in your Arc Mini before you watercooled it? If so, how were your temps?


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> +£5 for delivery.
> £9.91 if you get it from Amazon and next day if you're a prime member.
> I just bought 2x SP120s for H100.


Aye. Problem though is that Amazon appear to be out of stock. Says 1-2 months, last time I ordered with that time they never sent me anything.


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Hey Kaneda13, did you ever run your GTX 470 with the reference cooler in your Arc Mini before you watercooled it? If so, how were your temps?


yes i did, i'll look around tonight and see if i can find some pre-water temps and post them.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> yes i did, i'll look around tonight and see if i can find some pre-water temps and post them.


Thanks. I'm curious to how more adequate cooling would affect the GPU temps.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Bigger fans make more noise so if you want top exhaust, a big one is a good choice.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you mean make less noise? AF140 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Series-Edition-Airflow-Single/dp/B007RESGGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343733156&sr=8-1 £8.15, absolutely crazy price! Cheaper than my double pack of AF120 that I have if I buy two lol. Gonna get the case and the AF140s!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a white cathode at some point too.
Click to expand...

Lol yah, ment less. Text is so small when I'm typing on my phone that I should wear my glasses...gotta edit the damn post.
On a sidenote, under 10 pounds is a great price for those fans.


----------



## ad3ath

Yeah, it is. Too good, it's why it's amazon ... they charge £5 for postage to cover the acutal cost because of amazons minimum postage. They fans are actually still the cheapest. However, for slightly more I'm ordering the whole lot from a more trusted etailer. Some fresh MX-4 and air duster too.

Ordering 4 of the 140mm Corsair. Need to find the best 200 mm that will fit the Arc. Could also get an SSD as well... tempting.. tempting...


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Yeah, it is. Too good, it's why it's amazon ... they charge £5 for postage to cover the acutal cost because of amazons minimum postage. They fans are actually still the cheapest. However, for slightly more I'm ordering the whole lot from a more trusted etailer. Some fresh MX-4 and air duster too.
> 
> Ordering 4 of the 140mm Corsair. Need to find the best 200 mm that will fit the Arc. Could also get an SSD as well... tempting.. tempting...


I ordered two of the 140's Thursday. They will be here today. Pics later.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I ordered two of the 140's Thursday. They will be here today. Pics later.


Congrats! I will order my Arc and fans at a later date. dabs.com have offer for the Samsung 830 256GB SSD £149.97, got it delivered next day for extra £5. Couldn't resist.

Will give me time to find the perfect fans for my case while I save up for it. Can keep checking this awesome thread for ideas.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Congrats! I will order my Arc and fans at a later date. dabs.com have offer for the Samsung 830 256GB SSD £149.97, got it delivered next day for extra £5. Couldn't resist.
> Will give me time to find the perfect fans for my case while I save up for it. Can keep checking this awesome thread for ideas.


Nice one, I am looking at either the Samsung 830 128GB or OCZ Vertex 4 128GB both are available from Amazon for under £88 at the mo' - (I would like a 256GB but just out of my budget).


----------



## Malik

Job done for today:

- mb light
- carbon cover for 5.25


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Job done for today:
> - mb light
> - carbon cover for 5.25
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











The lights behind the motherboard tray are a nice touch


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Nice one, I am looking at either the Samsung 830 128GB or OCZ Vertex 4 128GB both are available from Amazon for under £88 at the mo' - (I would like a 256GB but just out of my budget).


£77.98 on Dabs I think they do free delivery, £79.99 OCuK...trust them more than amazon myself. 830 128GB. I wouldn't get an OCZ myself as the Samsung seems to have a better controller.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lights behind the motherboard tray look awesome


Thanks







Still waiting for fans, ram and cpu cooler... so this is the beginning


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for fans, ram and cpu cooler... so this is the beginning


Any plans on adding a side panel window?


----------



## Bruennis

I recently purchased the Fractal Design Arc Mini but it came with bad screw threads... Some couldn't tighten at all and one of the PCI slot cover couldn't be removed... Is this a common problem with the Arc mini / midi?


----------



## Blizlake

They seem to tighten their screws pretty well, I needed a screwdriver for almost all of them on my both fractal cases. I also had one thumbscrew with bad threads on my core 1000, almost had to cut the damn thing off.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruennis*
> 
> I recently purchased the Fractal Design Arc Mini but it came with bad screw threads... Some couldn't tighten at all and one of the PCI slot cover couldn't be removed... Is this a common problem with the Arc mini / midi?


For me it was. I couldn't to it buy hand. It took me 5 minutes to get the side panels off.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

No problems with my old R3 or my Midi.


----------



## airdeano

all three of my midis were stout at first, but all the threads were good.

airdeano


----------



## Kaneda13

yeap, no problems with my Mini.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Job done for today:
> - mb light
> - carbon cover for 5.25
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice ambient lighting and use of DiNoc. Looks really clean!


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Any plans on adding a side panel window?


Yes, there will be custom window
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice ambient lighting and use of DiNoc. Looks really clean!


Thanks


----------



## Shrak

My XL's screws were pretty tight from the factory. Been fine ever since, threads are still as good as new.

@ Malik, love the MB Lights.


----------



## JureS

Guys, I have a question. It has probably been answered already but I cant find it. Is anyone using the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit, or just the radiator this kit includes, or the EX280 Dual Fan/EX420 Triple Fan Radiator (those two are with 140mm fans)? I am wondering if it will fit in an Arc Midi case (the top), as well as I wish to know for the EX280 Dual Fan & EX420 Triple Fan Radiator.

All info is appreciated,

Jure


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Job done for today:
> - mb light
> - carbon cover for 5.25


Very nice









What are fan on the top?


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are fan on the top?


Phobya G-Silent14 Red LED


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JureS*
> 
> Guys, I have a question. It has probably been answered already but I cant find it. Is anyone using the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360 kit, or just the radiator this kit includes, or the EX280 Dual Fan/EX420 Triple Fan Radiator (those two are with 140mm fans)? I am wondering if it will fit in an Arc Midi case (the top), as well as I wish to know for the EX280 Dual Fan & EX420 Triple Fan Radiator.
> All info is appreciated,
> Jure


i know some here is running the 360 up top, it just takes out the 5.25" bays, and there isn't a whole already cut for it, but it is possible. not sure about the 420 though.


----------



## Shrak

420 may be seriously stretching the limits.


----------



## Ramsey77

An update on my mini. Sleeving, and Corsair fans in the top.


----------



## JureS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> i know some here is running the 360 up top, it just takes out the 5.25" bays, and there isn't a whole already cut for it, but it is possible. not sure about the 420 though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> 420 may be seriously stretching the limits.


Do you think a 2x140mm radiator would fit in and not take out the 5.25 inch bays? I might consider building a custom loop with that size if it fits, the cooling performance should be on par with 3x120mm radiator of the same quality, if my math is right.

J


----------



## AbdullahG

I need help deciding on what to get for around $100:
1) New case: I can get a Define Mini. My current temps in my Core 1000 are fairly cool ( CPU idles in the low 30s and maxes at 60C; GPU idles around 40C and maxes in the low 70s), so I am not sure if it is worth it right now. However, cable management and build quality are much better in the new case vs my Core 1000.

2) New monitor: My current monitor runs at 1600x900. I can get a nice 1080p monitor which should improve my gaming experience as well as everyday browsing.

I have no plans to run multiple cards or watercool in the future. Which option seems more worthwhile for the cost?

*TL;DR: Should I get a new case or a 1080p monitor for $100?*


----------



## Shrak

Monitor. Case won't make much of a huge difference for you.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> I need help deciding on what to get for around $100:
> 1) New case: I could get a Define Mini. My current temps in my Core 1000 are fairly cool ( CPU idles in the low 30s and maxes at 60C; GPU idles around 40C and maxes in the low 70s), so I am not sure if it is worth it right now. However, cable management and build quality are much better in the new case vs my Core 1000.
> 2) New monitor: My current monitor runs at 1600x900. I can get a nice 1080p monitor which should improve my gaming experience as well as everyday browsing.
> I plans to run multiple cards or watercool in the future. Which option seems more worthwhile for the cost?


I vote monitor. UPS just dropped this off to me today.

Asus PA248Q


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I vote monitor. UPS just dropped this off to me today.
> Asus PA248Q











I will go for the monitor then.


----------



## JureS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> I need help deciding on what to get for around $100:
> 1) New case: I could get a Define Mini. My current temps in my Core 1000 are fairly cool ( CPU idles in the low 30s and maxes at 60C; GPU idles around 40C and maxes in the low 70s), so I am not sure if it is worth it right now. However, cable management and build quality are much better in the new case vs my Core 1000.
> 2) New monitor: My current monitor runs at 1600x900. I can get a nice 1080p monitor which should improve my gaming experience as well as everyday browsing.
> I plans to run multiple cards or watercool in the future. Which option seems more worthwhile for the cost?


Well if your temps are that good in a Core 1000, it seems like your case is serving you well. If you are up for some quieter computing, Define mini might be worth considering. If your noise levels do not bother you, it would be a waste of money - rather spend that $$ on a quality monitor.

That being said, what monitor size were you considering and what is your budget?

J


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will go for the monitor then.


This thing is _beautiful_, and I have always missed the 1920x1200 resolution. It does have just a _little_ bit of back light bleed in the lower left hand corner, but I'm not planning on staring at a black screen. The vivid colors more than make up for it.


----------



## JureS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> This thing is _beautiful_, and I have always missed the 1920x1200 resolution. It does have just a _little_ bit of back light bleed in the lower left hand corner, but I'm not planning on staring at a black screen. The vivid colors more than make up for it.


It is a nice monitor, I was considering it myself but the price tag is a little steep so I went with Dell U2412M. I must say I am very pleased with it, 1920x1200 resolution and IPS panel sure do the trick


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JureS*
> 
> Well if your temps are that good in a Core 1000, it seems like your case is serving you well. If you are up for some quieter computing, Define mini might be worth considering. If your noise levels do not bother you, it would be a waste of money - rather spend that $$ on a quality monitor.
> That being said, what monitor size were you considering and what is your budget?
> J


It seems as though I would enjoy a new monitor more than a new case. I'm looking for a monitor at least 20" in size and cost under $150. I'm lost on how to choose one and what to look for in a monitor though.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> It seems as though I would enjoy a new monitor more than a new case. I'm looking for a monitor at least 20" in size and cost under $150. I'm lost on how to choose one and what to look for in a monitor though.


If you up your funds by $50 you can get a nice 21.5" Dell UltraSharp IPS monitor ( U2212HM ).

I snagged 3 for 180/each and love them.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> If you up your funds by $50 you can get a nice 21.5" Dell UltraSharp IPS monitor ( U2212HM ).
> I snagged 3 for 180/each and love them.


Unfortunately, $50 is a stretch for me.


----------



## Ramsey77

Asus VE228H

Just browsing the Egg, and this doesn't look too bad for the money.


----------



## ahzrukhal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> An update on my mini. Sleeving, and Corsair fans in the top.


That looks really nice. What fans do you have on the 212?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahzrukhal*
> 
> That looks really nice. What fans do you have on the 212?


2 Blademasters that come on the 212+ model.

COOLER MASTER R4-BMBS-20PK-R0 Blade Master


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> An update on my mini. Sleeving, and Corsair fans in the top.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks crazy good.. the braid look very good. still got your HDD upper guide, huh?

airdeano


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> looks crazy good.. the braid look very good. still got your HDD upper guide, huh?
> airdeano


Yeah, I left them to help hide the leads for my LED's that I have wrapped around in there.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

SP120s just arrived. Very happy with them. Nice and quiet and push a fair amount of air. Lowest I could set them using my Recon was 1200rpm, any lower than that and they spin back up to 2350rpm because they're isn't enough voltage to keep them there. They're really sturdy too which is a bonus. Still waiting for my other fans and PCI air slots though


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Hey Kaneda13, did you ever run your GTX 470 with the reference cooler in your Arc Mini before you watercooled it? If so, how were your temps?


sorry, forgot about posting this lastnight. this is the only temp reading i have, and this looks to be while i was running BOINC (so gpu @ 100%, cpu @ 2%).



*EDIT:*
aaahhh, nevermind. i just noticed the 2000rpms fan, that would have been the 80mm fan that was on when i was using a universal gpu block and a unisink from swiftech, so no then, i guess i don't have a reading with the stock air gpu block on. again, sorry.


----------



## LazarusIV

For my H50 in my Arc Midi, should I set the radiator as intake from the top or intake from the front? It's set up as intake in the top right now. What do you guys think?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> For my H50 in my Arc Midi, should I set the radiator as intake from the top or intake from the front? It's set up as intake in the top right now. What do you guys think?


Personally I would put the H50 in the Back as an Intake, because in the top as an Intake the fan blows against the rising heat and as I know a 120mm fan doesn´t fit in the front of an Arc Midi (correct me if I´m wrong).


----------



## ad3ath

Coldest air in from the back, hot air out the top, cooling motherboard a bit as well.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Personally I would put the H50 in the Back as an Intake, because in the top as an Intake the fan blows against the rising heat and as I know a 120mm fan doesn´t fit in the front of an Arc Midi (correct me if I´m wrong).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Coldest air in from the back, hot air out the top, cooling motherboard a bit as well.


I've got a 140 to 120mm adapter on the fan, I won't put it as intake on the back because I've got 2 reference cooler GTX 470s exhausting out the back, so I'd just be sucking all that hot air right back in again...

I've got all fans as intake except for the rear fan. 2 Bgears b-blaster 140mm intake in top (one attached to my H50 rad), 2 Bgears b-blaster 140mm intake in front, stock FD 140mm intake from bottom, and 1 stock FD 140mm exhaust out back. We've got 2 cats and a dog so I'm setting up a positive pressure system. Suffice it to say, animal hair is def an issue









When I moved from my Antec 1200 to this case I also swapped to IC Diamond 7 but I've been getting worse temps with that than I did with the AS5 I had been using. I'm going to reapply it one more time but if it isn't better I'll swap back to AS5. Maybe I can find some MX-2 at Microcenter. I dunno, I guess we'll see what happens...


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> When I moved from my Antec 1200 to this case........


if you could tell others about your case switch, what would you tell them about the Fractal Design Arc Midi?

did it meet your expectations?
was it a lateral move, better or worse?
was the case layout, looks or price what enticed the decision?
what would you want your Arc Midi to have to make you switch again?

airdeano


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> what would you want your Arc Midi to have to make you switch again?


SSD mounts on the rear of the motherboard. Something typically only found on higher end cases that I think all cases should feature.


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> SSD mounts on the rear of the motherboard. Something typically only found on higher end cases that I think all cases should feature.


http://www.mnpctech.com/scotch_4010_tape_of_the_casemod_gods.html


----------



## ahsjose

I bought my Arc Midi yesterday to start off my first build. I know it comes with three fans (1 front, 1 top, and 1 back), but I plan on getting two Silverstone AP141's for intake fans. Am I allowed to move the front stock fan to the bottom of the case? and are the Silverstone AP141's compatible with this case?

Thank you for your help!


----------



## CooperJS

Hey guys, Recently bought my fractal design Arc midi, and i LOVE IT!!! its so a nice looking case and also about 2 days after they had sent me another one of no cost!!!! they must of stuffed the order up or some thing









Ill try and post some pics of mine tonight or tomorrow
Love this thread









Cooper


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahsjose*
> 
> I bought my Arc Midi yesterday to start off my first build. I know it comes with three fans (1 front, 1 top, and 1 back), but I plan on getting two Silverstone AP141's for intake fans. Am I allowed to move the front stock fan to the bottom of the case? and are the Silverstone AP141's compatible with this case?
> Thank you for your help!


Congrats! Yes, the AP141's are compatible with the case, and not a bad choice at all for the front intake. You could move one of the stock fans to the bottom, that would give you more positive pressure and help direct the airflow up.
What are the other parts you will be using on your build? Mostly insterested in your cpu cooler and gpu.


----------



## ahsjose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Congrats! Yes, the AP141's are compatible with the case, and not a bad choice at all for the front intake. You could move one of the stock fans to the bottom, that would give you more positive pressure and help direct the airflow up.
> What are the other parts you will be using on your build? Mostly insterested in your cpu cooler and gpu.


For my GPU I am going to buy a GTX 670 and for my CPU cooler, I am still reading reviews and looking for the right one. I'd be willing to spend the money on the H100 or The Noctua NH-D14 (not digging the colors but not a big deal). This is gonna be my gaming rig so I want everything to stay nice and cool. What do you recommend?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahsjose*
> 
> For my GPU I am going to buy a GTX 670 and for my CPU cooler, I am still reading reviews and looking for the right one. I'd be willing to spend the money on the H100 or The Noctua NH-D14 (not digging the colors but not a big deal). This is gonna be my gaming rig so I want everything to stay nice and cool. What do you recommend?


I very much prefer heatsinks over the closed loop coolers. (I'm actually using a closed loop cooler myself at the moment, but I bought it because it's going on my GPU when I get some money.)
If you don't like the idea of 1kg of metal and plastic hanging off your motherboard (which is completely safe), or just want a more cleaner or open look, and easier access to some components like your RAM, a H100 isn't a bad choice.
If you want a H100, get some better fans for it. The best option for it would be a double pack of the Corsair SP120 fans IMO. The likes of NH-D14, Silver Arrow and TC14PE come with great fans, so they'll turn out cheaper than the H100.
The fan config I'd go with H100 would be The AP141's front and H100 top with 2 fans, maybe a fan at the bottom too for proper positive pressure.
With a heatsink like the phanteks TC14PE, I'd have the same config but only exhaust fan installed would be the rearmost top fan (and the 2 fans on the heatsink). In both cases I wouldn't use a rear exhaust fan, and I'd cut the mesh off the rear if I were using a heatsink.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> http://www.mnpctech.com/scotch_4010_tape_of_the_casemod_gods.html


Cheap way that shouldn't need to be done.

I'll drill my own holes before I tape something to my cases. Which is just what I did with my FT02, and my Define XL.


----------



## ad3ath

Hm, need to figure out which dremel disks to buy to cut out the fan mesh from my case. It's quite solid steel...my rotary tool is 12V plugged in type. Came with some small disks but I don't think they look up to it. Anyone ecommend some?


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Hm, need to figure out which dremel disks to buy to cut out the fan mesh from my case. It's quite solid steel...my rotary tool is 12V plugged in type. Came with some small disks but I don't think they look up to it. Anyone ecommend some?


Why not just get some cheap nibblers?

edit: quick video I found to show you;


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Why not just get some cheap nibblers?
> edit: quick video I found to show you;


Never even heard of nibblers...lol. They look interesting, I got the dremel because it was only £10 on special offer. I will order a nibbler to nibble it for me!


----------



## ad3ath

Not sure how I would get the cutting started on the mesh with one of those. Does it need a large hole to start with? Also do the cuttings go far? I don't really want to remove my motherboard etc if I can help it.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-35748-Hand-Nibbler/dp/B0001K9TGU/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1343966101&sr=1-1

Like that or do I need the style like in the video you posted? I have a drill incase I needed to make a hole I guess. Only ever modded with a chisel and hammer before, but don't want to destroy this case and last one was aluminium this is steel.


----------



## ahsjose

I have all the things i need for my build ready to order but I was wondering if anyone had any experiences with the NZXT Havik 140 and will it fit in the arc midi? Another CPU heatsink I was interested in is the CNPS11X Extreme because it looks really good imo. If anyone can give any personal input on these heatsinks i will appreciate it.

Thank you!


----------



## Blizlake

The havik fits easily with plenty of room to spare, and it's a great heatsink based on reviews I've read.
The Zalman... Ugh...


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> if you could tell others about your case switch, what would you tell them about the Fractal Design Arc Midi?
> did it meet your expectations?
> was it a lateral move, better or worse?
> was the case layout, looks or price what enticed the decision?
> what would you want your Arc Midi to have to make you switch again?
> airdeano


I switced from CM 690 II.

Reasons:
Arc midi 360 rad support with minimal modding.
Arc midi extra width.
Arc has better dust filters.

What Arc should have:

Sound dampening on side panels.
Even better dust filters.
White version.
Integrated fan controller.
Native 360 rad support. (bigger top mesh, removable optical bay).
Better FANS!!!


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Why not just get some cheap nibblers?
> edit: quick video I found to show you;


Thanks for the suggestion! It's hard to get cheap nibblers in the UK. I got some "Tin Snips" instead, 250mm quite heavy duty ones. Worked like a charm with very little mess to clean up, just a bit of paint and some little bits of metal, was very clean way of doing it. Fan is already quieter and putting out more CFM. Off to do the back fan mesh now.


----------



## CooperJS

Here's some pics of my case, hope to put a full side window in soon and do the front panel mod to
Hope you guys like it :d
I tried to get classy with the photos using my phone but is was pretty crap haha

Quick question: Does any one use the NZXT FZ-140mm fans? are they any good and would you guys recommend them?
Looking at putting some white ones in the case. Here's the link to the fans if don't know what im talking about: http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/case_fans/fz-140mm_nonled





Cooper


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CooperJS*
> 
> Quick question: Does any one use the NZXT FZ-140mm fans? are they any good and would you guys recommend them?
> Looking at putting some white ones in the case. Here's the link to the fans if don't know what im talking about:
> Cooper


Lovely system mate.

I'm going for the Corsair AF140's Quiet Airflow (they only do quiet ones at 140 ^^). I have the AF120 in my current pc and they are quite quiet at 1600RPM. At 1100 I can't hear them. Actually, at 1600 all I hear is the air moving (after removing fan mesh). Out of case they move a lot of air and make no noise for me to hear. I expect the AF140 to be even better because of lower RPM and they look lovely. Just finished removing all my fan mesh and airflow has increased by over 50%, fan filter holds intake fans back but I can't deal with dust. If you like the look of the Corsair fans don't hesitate they are really good. I would think the NZXT are pretty much the same, almost same design too for the anti vibration, which looks more sturdy than the corsairs, one of my rubber corners got shredded on one side, but managed to still use the back side of it.

I may consider the NZXT's myself, and get a 200cm one for the top to keep with the black and white theme.

Fractal are bringing out a side window at the end of the year, that's when I will order my ARC with it bundled so I don't have a random extra panel.

Excuse my rambling. I really like fans.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion! It's hard to get cheap nibblers in the UK. I got some "Tin Snips" instead, 250mm quite heavy duty ones. Worked like a charm with very little mess to clean up, just a bit of paint and some little bits of metal, was very clean way of doing it. Fan is already quieter and putting out more CFM. Off to do the back fan mesh now.


Great


----------



## CooperJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Lovely system mate.
> I'm going for the Corsair AF140's Quiet Airflow (they only do quiet ones at 140 ^^). I have the AF120 in my current pc and they are quite quiet at 1600RPM. At 1100 I can't hear them. Actually, at 1600 all I hear is the air moving (after removing fan mesh). Out of case they move a lot of air and make no noise for me to hear. I expect the AF140 to be even better because of lower RPM and they look lovely. Just finished removing all my fan mesh and airflow has increased by over 50%, fan filter holds intake fans back but I can't deal with dust. If you like the look of the Corsair fans don't hesitate they are really good. I would think the NZXT are pretty much the same, almost same design too for the anti vibration, which looks more sturdy than the corsairs, one of my rubber corners got shredded on one side, but managed to still use the back side of it.
> I may consider the NZXT's myself, and get a 200cm one for the top to keep with the black and white theme.
> Fractal are bringing out a side window at the end of the year, that's when I will order my ARC with it bundled so I don't have a random extra panel.
> Excuse my rambling. I really like fans.


That will be awesome when they bring out the side panel but i like the looks of smokey acrylic on the side of the case, makes it look sexy and you still get to keep your old side panel
I like the corsair fans but i like NZXT fans more because they are black and white and look pretty noice to haha
Going to take the front filter out now or tomorrow









Cooper


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> I'm going for the Corsair AF140's Quiet Airflow (they only do quiet ones at 140 ^^). I have the AF120 in my current pc and they are quite quiet at 1600RPM.


Corsair fans aren't that great. NZXT FZ are a better choice and they have white blades.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Corsair fans aren't that great. NZXT FZ are a better choice and they have white blades.











I've only heard good things said about the new Corsair fans. (Same with the FZ-series.)


----------



## Shrak

Same here, most people love corsair fans all around.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Hm, need to figure out which dremel disks to buy to cut out the fan mesh from my case. It's quite solid steel...my rotary tool is 12V plugged in type. Came with some small disks but I don't think they look up to it. Anyone ecommend some?


I just bought a pack of 5 MasterCraft discs for mine. I figured they are going to get used up anyway when cutting through steel so no point in paying for super good ones.

The only thing I noticed is the lower quality ones heat up a little faster and don't provide as clean of a cut. But I figured I would be using the sanding attachment anyway to smooth the edges.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

My fans and air slots turned up this morning but WCUK sent me the transparent framed ones instead of the black ones







waiting for an email now to see when they can swap them.

Air slots look much better though.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only heard good things said about the new Corsair fans. (Same with the FZ-series.)


I have no proof otherwise I would've posted it.


----------



## AbdullahG

To anyone who has replaced their side panel window with acrylic, how exactly did you install the acrylic? I plan on doing the same with the Core 1000, but I cannot seem to find a guide on how to replace the side panel with acrylic (they only explain how to make a window).


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> To anyone who has replaced their side panel window with acrylic, how exactly did you install the acrylic? I plan on doing the same with the Core 1000, but I cannot seem to find a guide on how to replace the side panel with acrylic (they only explain how to make a window).


Strong double-sided tape, glue and screws for starters


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> To anyone who has replaced their side panel window with acrylic, how exactly did you install the acrylic? I plan on doing the same with the Core 1000, but I cannot seem to find a guide on how to replace the side panel with acrylic (they only explain how to make a window).


A lot of people are using neodymium magnets.

I myself would take a bit more... sturdy approach and use rivet nuts or threaded rivets, then countersink the panel where the screws will go and use some nice flat hex/torx screws.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> if you could tell others about your case switch, what would you tell them about the Fractal Design Arc Midi?
> did it meet your expectations?
> was it a lateral move, better or worse?
> was the case layout, looks or price what enticed the decision?
> what would you want your Arc Midi to have to make you switch again?
> airdeano


Hey airdeano, great questions!

I love the Arc Midi. I'd say the biggest difference between the 1200 and the Arc Midi are two-fold. First and most obvious is size, the Arc Midi is much smaller than the 1200 and much lighter but even so I had zero issues fitting everything in there. Second, the layout and engineering of the Arc Midi is so much better! You can absolutely tell that a lot of thought was put into the design of the interior of the Arc Midi, it is *much* easier to work inside than the 1200 despite being smaller. All in all, it was looks, interior, price, and all my research that decided me on the Arc Midi.

I had been excited for the Arc Midi for a while (my fiancee can attest to that







) so when I finally got it home and opened it up I would have to say it exceeded my expectations, especially after working inside of it! Specifically, I was looking for a smaller, lighter case that would leave me room to grow and upgrade while supporting moderate custom watercooling in the future with a minimal of case modding. The Arc Midi fits that to a 'T' and then some. Cable management is very good, though I'm still learning. I want to get a new PSU for better cable management and, more importantly, because the one I have is an older one of a brand that's not big-name. The last thing I want is for it to blow up and leave me computerless until I can afford to build another one!

I would only have FD change a few minor things. First I would make both HDD cages removeable. Second, I would replace the sponge dust filters with more effective screen ones, like the magnetic ones a lot of people are getting. Third, I would either remove the crappy fan controller they include altogether OR replace it with a nicer more reliable one. They have a new fan controller coming out soon that looks awesome, so maybe include that as an optional add-on? All in all, those are very minor, cosmetic gripes. Every single person will have their own opinions, likes, and dislikes so I don't expect FD to cater to my wishes, though that would be pretty nice









Eventually I'll upgrade to a 3570K, a GTX 670 or 680, and maybe a few other things but no matter what I've got inside the Arc Midi it is an _excellent_ case and I do not in the least regret buying it.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> To anyone who has replaced their side panel window with acrylic, how exactly did you install the acrylic? I plan on doing the same with the Core 1000, but I cannot seem to find a guide on how to replace the side panel with acrylic (they only explain how to make a window).


I used the magnets, and real glass with mine.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1252932/black-tinted-glass-side-panel#post_17156437


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> A lot of people are using neodymium magnets.
> I myself would take a bit more... sturdy approach and use rivet nuts or threaded rivets, then countersink the panel where the screws will go and use some nice flat hex/torx screws.


I'll consider the rivets and nuts suggestion. All I need now is to find some acrylic and tools online.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I used the magnets, and real glass with mine.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1252932/black-tinted-glass-side-panel#post_17156437


Yeah, I'm a bit concerned about using magnets and how they hold up, although they give a much more clean and mess-fine look. You also gave me the idea of using rubber feet for the case.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I just bought a pack of 5 MasterCraft discs for mine. I figured they are going to get used up anyway when cutting through steel so no point in paying for super good ones.
> 
> The only thing I noticed is the lower quality ones heat up a little faster and don't provide as clean of a cut. But I figured I would be using the sanding attachment anyway to smooth the edges.


Heya, I just got some Tin Snips I think they were called, heavy duty sheet metal kinda scissors. Worked really well, was done with all my fan slots in about twenty minutes.


----------



## ouvreboite

Hello here

does anyone knows if a h80 (or any 120 rad) would fit on the top front fan of the define mini ?


----------



## Kaneda13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ouvreboite*
> 
> Hello here
> does anyone knows if a h80 (or any 120 rad) would fit on the top front fan of the define mini ?


I've seen customer loop 120's up front, so the rad should fit, you'll just have to removed the upper HD carrier. the only issue would be weather you have enough hose to reach all the way there. also, you'll need the radiator orientated so that the hoses are closest to the left panel so they clear everything. my guess would be while the rad would fit, you won't have enough hose to reach.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> I've seen customer loop 120's up front, so the rad should fit, you'll just have to removed the upper HD carrier. the only issue would be weather you have enough hose to reach all the way there. also, you'll need the radiator orientated so that the hoses are closest to the left panel so they clear everything. my guess would be while the rad would fit, you won't have enough hose to reach.


This pretty much, the rad will fit fine. The issue is hose length.


----------



## CooperJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> A lot of people are using neodymium magnets.
> I myself would take a bit more... sturdy approach and use rivet nuts or threaded rivets, then countersink the panel where the screws will go and use some nice flat hex/torx screws.


Yea im with you i reckon i would use a more sturdy approach, my plan was to use small black Allen key bolts, thought that they would look pretty cool or thumb screws.

Cooper


----------



## FDNFP14

Hey everyone, first time posting in these forums. Just wondering if I could get some advice about my setup. Slowly putting together my first rig in years and right now I am working on case cooling. I have attached a picture with the current airflow. Please note that the front intake fans show warm air coming in. This is because I will be installing a xspc water cooler and the radiator will be installed in front with fans pulling air through (and I will be removing the currently front mounted fans). Right now, I figure the radiator fans will be pulling hot air, the bottom fan will offset th ast by pulling in cool air and the top fans and back fan will exhasust hot air out. I will be watercooling the CPU and graphics card.

Since this is my first time doing this in 10 yrs, does this setup make sense? Any other reccomendations?


----------



## Shrak

Maybe it's just me but I always like having my roof's as intakes. With just the rear as exhaust.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Maybe it's just me but I always like having my roof's as intakes. With just the rear as exhaust.


My Cosmos 1000 benefited having the top fans as intakes too.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Hey airdeano, great questions!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I love the Arc Midi. I'd say the biggest difference between the 1200 and the Arc Midi are two-fold. First and most obvious is size, the Arc Midi is much smaller than the 1200 and much lighter but even so I had zero issues fitting everything in there. Second, the layout and engineering of the Arc Midi is so much better! You can absolutely tell that a lot of thought was put into the design of the interior of the Arc Midi, it is *much* easier to work inside than the 1200 despite being smaller. All in all, it was looks, interior, price, and all my research that decided me on the Arc Midi.
> I had been excited for the Arc Midi for a while (my fiancee can attest to that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so when I finally got it home and opened it up I would have to say it exceeded my expectations, especially after working inside of it! Specifically, I was looking for a smaller, lighter case that would leave me room to grow and upgrade while supporting moderate custom watercooling in the future with a minimal of case modding. The Arc Midi fits that to a 'T' and then some. Cable management is very good, though I'm still learning. I want to get a new PSU for better cable management and, more importantly, because the one I have is an older one of a brand that's not big-name. The last thing I want is for it to blow up and leave me computerless until I can afford to build another one!
> I would only have FD change a few minor things. First I would make both HDD cages removeable. Second, I would replace the sponge dust filters with more effective screen ones, like the magnetic ones a lot of people are getting. Third, I would either remove the crappy fan controller they include altogether OR replace it with a nicer more reliable one. They have a new fan controller coming out soon that looks awesome, so maybe include that as an optional add-on? All in all, those are very minor, cosmetic gripes. Every single person will have their own opinions, likes, and dislikes so I don't expect FD to cater to my wishes, though that would be pretty nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eventually I'll upgrade to a 3570K, a GTX 670 or 680, and maybe a few other things but no matter what I've got inside the Arc Midi it is an _excellent_ case and I do not in the least regret buying it.


great feedback.. glad you are enjoying the case..
we will see what FD can do for a revision if they can fit it in..

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Yeah, I'm a bit concerned about using magnets and how they hold up, although they give a much more clean and mess-fine look. You also gave me the idea of using rubber feet for the case.


using rare earth magnet tape is about the strongest to use for heavy or awkward loads.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Heya, I just got some Tin Snips I think they were called, heavy duty sheet metal kinda scissors. Worked really well, was done with all my fan slots in about twenty minutes.


here is a lil tool (the nibbler) that can really make life easier as a video earlier in a post showed..

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Hey everyone, first time posting in these forums. Just wondering if I could get some advice about my setup. Slowly putting together my first rig in years and right now I am working on case cooling. I have attached a picture with the current airflow. Please note that the front intake fans show warm air coming in. This is because I will be installing a xspc water cooler and the radiator will be installed in front with fans pulling air through (and I will be removing the currently front mounted fans). Right now, I figure the radiator fans will be pulling hot air, the bottom fan will offset th ast by pulling in cool air and the top fans and back fan will exhasust hot air out. I will be watercooling the CPU and graphics card.
> Since this is my first time doing this in 10 yrs, does this setup make sense? Any other reccomendations?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


if this is an air-cooled CPU cooler, you wont need all those fans, especially the roof. the weaker front fans will
be inaffective. the floor fan will be nice depending on your graphics card. and again, depending on cooling of
CPU, the rear exhaust may be restrictive.

airdeano


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> great feedback.. glad you are enjoying the case..
> we will see what FD can do for a revision if they can fit it in..
> airdeano
> *using rare earth magnet tape is about the strongest to use for heavy or awkward loads.*
> airdeano
> here is a lil tool (the nibbler) that can really make life easier as a video earlier in a post showed..
> airdeano
> if this is an air-cooled CPU cooler, you wont need all those fans, especially the roof. the weaker front fans will
> be inaffective. the floor fan will be nice depending on your graphics card. and again, depending on cooling of
> CPU, the rear exhaust may be restrictive.
> airdeano


The tape is junk. Neo's are the way to go. Tried them both, neo's blew the tape away.


----------



## airdeano

rare earth magnet are pretty strong, ive used them alot.. and on plexi it shouldnt be an issue, maybe
for glass because its heavier? ive used the tape for displays and it was monster hold on high carbon
steel. it was a 3 1/2 pound piece of aluminum on a vertical standing carbon steel square tubing. used
4- 6" pieces and voilia.. it was there.

hey wait.. isnt Neodymium a type of rare eath magnet anyway? i thought i had read that somewhere.

airdeano


----------



## ad3ath

Nibbler might have been easier, but that would have been £30 I would have put towards my ARC's fans! The snips were only £9.99 from a local store and did the job just fine, perhaps not as tidy though.

My roof fans will not be intakes because I want to get the hot air out of my case, and they look better as intakes lol. Though I'm probably getting a 20cm fan up top.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Hey everyone, first time posting in these forums. Just wondering if I could get some advice about my setup. Slowly putting together my first rig in years and right now I am working on case cooling. I have attached a picture with the current airflow. Please note that the front intake fans show warm air coming in. This is because I will be installing a xspc water cooler and the radiator will be installed in front with fans pulling air through (and I will be removing the currently front mounted fans). Right now, I figure the radiator fans will be pulling hot air, the bottom fan will offset th ast by pulling in cool air and the top fans and back fan will exhasust hot air out. I will be watercooling the CPU and graphics card.
> Since this is my first time doing this in 10 yrs, does this setup make sense? Any other reccomendations?


I'd take the frontmost top exhaust out, otherwise you'll likely get some pretty bad negative pressure inside your case.


----------



## FDNFP14

Thanks for all the advice guys. For now, I have changed the top two fans to intakes. Will update with more pics when I get the xspc kit.


----------



## AbdullahG

I got bored, so I decided to play with some 120mm fans:




With 3 fans blowing directly at a Fermi GPU, I had little to no difference change in temps. I also found out the 120mm side panel fan does not help improve temps for the GPU.


----------



## AbdullahG

*DOUBLE POST*


----------



## Blizlake

Your GPU is blower-style so it probably gets enough air from the front fan. The sidepanel fan could help keeping the mobo components cool though.


----------



## AbdullahG

Yeah, I was expecting there to be no change. My motherboard temps increased by 2 or 3C though.


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Job done for today:
> - mb light
> - carbon cover for 5.25


WOW that motherboard light is insane!














How'd you get lights back there? is it just a short LED strip back there? Awesome job:thumb:


----------



## Malik

Here you have LEDs which i used: LINK


----------



## MoInSTL

Ordered the R4 Titanium Grey earlier today and a Thermalright HR-02 Macho . I'm excited. First new case in 7 years!
I tried doing a search but couldn't find an answer to my questions.

I looked at the height size and I think the Macho with one fan may be cutting it close. Anyone have one mounted?
http://www.thermalright.com/products/index.php?act=data&cat_id=35&id=178

Also have a PC Power and Cooling MKIII Silencer 600w. Hoping I don't need a 12v extension cable. Will it reach?

Thanks!


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Yeah, I was expecting there to be no change. My motherboard temps increased by 2 or 3C though.


Awesome thanks, I had a feeling you were using alchemy


----------



## CooperJS

Well i did the first mod to my arc midi which is removing the filters and that plastic crap behind it, and now it looks so much more better











Hope you guys like it, next plan is a full acrylic window on the side









Cooper


----------



## Theloudtrout

Looks nice, but may i recommend putting some black card in and putting circular cuts in. A few have done it on here and it looks really nice.


----------



## JureS

Guys, is anyone using the new Thermaltake Water 2.0 extreme with an Arc Midi case or knows if it will fit in it without modding?

Thnx

J


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JureS*
> 
> Guys, is anyone using the new Thermaltake Water 2.0 extreme with an Arc Midi case or knows if it will fit in it without modding?


Yeah, it's 40mm thick so it should fit in the midi just fine with one set of fans.
I wouldn't use RAM or mobo with tall heatsinks though.


----------



## JureS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Yeah, it's 40mm thick so it should fit in the midi just fine with one set of fans.
> I wouldn't use RAM or mobo with tall heatsinks though.


I don't think that would be a problem (I'm getting these puppies http://geizhals.eu/736813 ), as the 120mm mounting holes up top are moved away from the MoBo. I think you can have a 20cm thick unit there if you want to.

I'm more concerned about the length, since the 5.25 inch bay cage in Arc Midi is fairly close to the 120mm mounting holes located toward that end. I just want to make sure that the radiator won't collide with that bay. If that won't happen, I might even set the radiator up in a push/pull









J


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> Ordered the R4 Titanium Grey earlier today and a Thermalright HR-02 Macho . I'm excited. First new case in 7 years!
> I tried doing a search but couldn't find an answer to my questions.
> I looked at the height size and I think the Macho with one fan may be cutting it close. Anyone have one mounted?
> http://www.thermalright.com/products/index.php?act=data&cat_id=35&id=178
> Also have a PC Power and Cooling MKIII Silencer 600w. Hoping I don't need a 12v extension cable. Will it reach?
> Thanks!


I have the R4 in titanium grey, it's an awesome case









I didn't need any extensions, I have a seasonic x750. Even the 8 pin CPU power was fine, and it's on the very top of the board. Your psu might be different but most likely I think you'll be fine.

As for the cooler I'm not sure, it kind of depends on the motherboard too. There isn't a ton of space in the top, if I remember around 30 mm or so before you hit the motherboard.


----------



## ad3ath

No dust filters? You guys are brave, or not lazy? I don't want any dust getting in my D14 or on my fans...do you guys just clean your case once a month or somethin? Or live in some special kind of bubble that has no dust? I know fans work 100% better without dust filter but I just don't think I can run mine without them.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> but I just don't think I can run mine *without them*.


*Nor would I*

I've seen plenty unfiltered box's. Not a pretty sight.

For the amount of money most have invested, I'd never take the chance of messing up
my stuff over the looks without a filter. Dusty componets run hotter and certainly shortens the
life of most all electronics.

The actual "gain" of air-flow isn't near enough to sacrifice what's inside _[IMO of course]_

I've got an 9 year old server box running 24/7 that looks near new inside _[all because of proper filtered air]_


----------



## CooperJS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theloudtrout*
> 
> Looks nice, but may i recommend putting some black card in and putting circular cuts in. A few have done it on here and it looks really nice.


I want to, but im worried if i bend the tabs again they are going to break, already broke two :/


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> No dust filters? You guys are brave, or not lazy? I don't want any dust getting in my D14 or on my fans...do you guys just clean your case once a month or somethin? Or live in some special kind of bubble that has no dust? I know fans work 100% better without dust filter but I just don't think I can run mine without them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> *Nor would I*
> I've seen plenty unfiltered box's. Not a pretty sight.
> For the amount of money most have invested, I'd never take the chance of messing up
> my stuff over the looks without a filter. Dusty componets run hotter and certainly shortens the
> life of most all electronics.
> The actual "gain" of air-flow isn't near enough to sacrifice what's inside _[IMO of course]_
> I've got an 9 year old server box running 24/7 that looks near new inside _[all because of proper filtered air]_


And that's why I put the dust filter on the inside of the fan. You get the looks, and the dust filter.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> And that's why I put the dust filter on the inside of the fan. You get the looks, and the dust filter.


Not a bad idea, fan still gets dusty though?







Airflow is probably better with the standard filter in front. Maybe I'll try out different materials for my filter. Do agree is looks much nicer with them fans on show. Look forward to seeing your side window.

I saw a review for fan filters once, some guy bought extra filter for the back of his case on the exhaust.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> No dust filters? You guys are brave, or not lazy? I don't want any dust getting in my D14 or on my fans...do you guys just clean your case once a month or somethin? Or live in some special kind of bubble that has no dust? I know fans work 100% better without dust filter but I just don't think I can run mine without them.


My computer goes on a date with the air compressor once every two weeks, so dust is no problem. The only filter I leave on is the PSU filter.


----------



## lurker2501

Front I/O panel sleeving complete. Yay!


----------



## MoInSTL

MME1122, Thanks for the reply. It's going to be a little close. Fractal says: CPU coolers up to 170mm tall (when no fan is installed in the side panel).. Thermalright: Dimension: Length 140mm x Width 102mm x Height 162mm (with no fan) It's horizontally mounted, so I should be okay.

My PC Power and Cooling is manufactured by Seasonic so it will probably be okay.


----------



## AM106

Pics of my black R4 with window. So happy with this case







. Used the camera on my Galaxy SIII, hence the low quality. Old case (CM 371) and new case. New fans in the near future. Don't mind the wires in the background, it's a work in progress haha.


----------



## legendaryboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AM106*
> 
> Pics of my black R4 with window. So happy with this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Used the camera on my Galaxy SIII, hence the low quality. Old case (CM 371) and new case. New fans in the near future. Don't mind the wires in the background, it's a work in progress haha.


thx alot mate for the pics..
awesome looking build...







enjoy


----------



## Theloudtrout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AM106*
> 
> Pics of my black R4 with window. So happy with this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Used the camera on my Galaxy SIII, hence the low quality. Old case (CM 371) and new case. New fans in the near future. Don't mind the wires in the background, it's a work in progress haha.


Nice build my friend. That thing is looking sweet !


----------



## Exothermic1982

Man, those R4 pics make me want to order one right now. Such a classy looking case. Does anyone know if the hoses on a H100 will reach the cpu if you mount one in the front in a push/pull config?


----------



## jopy

My antec cpu cooler leaked







, and they gave me the new revision with a better and all black mounting as replacement, oh well.....

At the same time i changed my ram, mobo, add 2 cougar pwm to the cooler and knock off my hdd cage.

Emailed fractal they can't sell me the r4 bottom hdd cage separately







thus I had to make a temporary hdd cage from those r3 hdd bracket for the time being, till i decide to buy some frames/metal to DIY a proper one.


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, I got myself an Enermax T.B. Vegas Duo fan today (the one ekg use on his rig) and holy crap it looks absolutely amazing in person! Really high quality stuff and a must have IMO.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> Emailed fractal they can't sell me the r4 bottom hdd cage separately thus I had to make a temporary hdd cage from those r3 hdd bracket for the time being, till i decide to buy some frames/metal to DIY a proper one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i might be able to help. i prolly won't be needing HDD cages from #4 midi project.. won't know i a week or two.
they might come up for sale, dunna know..

airdeano


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys, I got myself an Enermax T.B. Vegas Duo fan today (the one ekg use on his rig) and holy crap it looks absolutely amazing in person! Really high quality stuff and a must have IMO.


I'd love a pair for the front of my case(once I get the Arc Mini.) Lets see some pictures.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> i might be able to help. i prolly won't be needing HDD cages from #4 midi project.. won't know i a week or two.
> they might come up for sale, dunna know..
> airdeano










thks for the offer








ill see how too, more incline to diy from sheet metals atm hehe


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Man, those R4 pics make me want to order one right now. Such a classy looking case. Does anyone know if the hoses on a H100 will reach the cpu if you mount one in the front in a push/pull config?


I did some fitting with my H80, it'll fit in the front but you have the turn the rad the right way. I had the hoses facing up and it worked, so the H100 shouldn't be a problem. I fitted it with a fan in the little front bracket thing, so you could have intake as push or exhaust as pull if you know what I mean. It would be pretty tight to mount the rad directly in the holder.

But I don't think you can get push/pull without removing both HDD cages. You can set the bottom cage back and fit the H100 and one set of fans, and if you remove the top HDD cage you should be able to get a third fan on.


----------



## xILukasIx

Look what arrived at my place today!


I'm going to use the second GTX580 from my other rig and put it in the new PC once I move to Vienna (this is my PC that I'm going to use there while I'm at the University in Vienna).
Using it for some light gaming then 

This is what it looks like right now:

(That's a total of 6 fans in there, I'm going to buy two 120mm black/white fans and use them for the H60)

Will look a lot cleaner once the video card is in, I think.


----------



## AbdullahG

^Looks nice, although it bothers me seeing all that empty space in the case








You could probably hide your lunch in there when you head off to the university.


----------



## airdeano

more room to stuff big fatty radiators in... plural.. we'll see about that in a few..





*do we know what this is/was?*

72 rivets total removed... and why?

airdeano


----------



## Kyronn94

Just taken the plunge and ordered an Arc Mini to replace my Core 1000









I'll be sure to upload some before and after pictures, it will also allow me to use my D14, instead of the C14.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyronn94*
> 
> Just taken the plunge and ordered an Arc Mini to replace my Core 1000
> I'll be sure to upload some before and after pictures, it will also allow me to use my D14, instead of the C14.


congrats on the move up..
i moved from a c14 to d14 and there is a lotto difference at the top temperature range
in my midi case use and upped the overclock a bit too..

airdeano


----------



## Malik

Stage II ready:


----------



## MoInSTL

My (Titanium Grey) R4 is on the truck for delivery. It's 6:15PM local time. I guess UPS is really going to drag it out.









Edit:: Got it!

Finally got it 6:47 and with crazy high 99F temps, I could feel tons of heat emanating from it. Despite the box being banged up & dented, it looks okay. I already have a minor scratch near the bottom. Paint is not the best IMO. Seems like it's a thin coat of paint. Hard to line up side of case to re-insert thumbscrews. May need to acclimate from the intense heat it was in. Was a loose thumb screw from bottom drive cage bouncing around on the inside. Forgot to look for inside scratches. Not nice to have that inside hitting the fans either.

It's much wider than I expected. Like the layout a lot. I can't wait to check out the lights and fan controller to verify they work.

Not much else to say about it until I move over to it. It does look nice. I have not removed the door film yet, so can't comment on that. Looks like the only difference between this & the Black Perl is the door color.

Cooler has been shipped! Estimated Arrival: August 9, 2012

So I will move everything over this weekend. I can't wait!


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Stunning! The red rings on the fans really set it off


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Almost makes me wish the corsair fans had interchangable rings on both sides









Better symmetry would be <3


----------



## adi518

I like your taste Malik, not many know how to put up a great color scheme.


----------



## Flanders finest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Almost makes me wish the corsair fans had interchangable rings on both sides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better symmetry would be <3


Agree!


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:


Awesome job man, your rig looks killer (and judging from your sign) it runs killer too, your rig is one of the coolest ones I've seen, it manages to look elegant and like a beast at the same time, hats off to you sir!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xILukasIx*
> 
> Look what arrived at my place today!
> 
> I'm going to use the second GTX580 from my other rig and put it in the new PC once I move to Vienna (this is my PC that I'm going to use there while I'm at the University in Vienna).
> Using it for some light gaming then
> This is what it looks like right now:
> 
> (That's a total of 6 fans in there, I'm going to buy two 120mm black/white fans and use them for the H60)
> Will look a lot cleaner once the video card is in, I think.


Congrats on the nice build.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Almost makes me wish the corsair fans had interchangable rings on both sides
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better symmetry would be <3


My thoughts too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:


Reminds me of mine. Black and Red is the best IMO. Really nice job.







+Rep for good taste!


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Not a bad idea, fan still gets dusty though?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airflow is probably better with the standard filter in front. Maybe I'll try out different materials for my filter. Do agree is looks much nicer with them fans on show.


Well, yeah it does. But its not as bad as not having a filter at all. Fans aren't as hard to clean as heatsink fins


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, those fans look great on a cooler, I didn't think they would. Makes me want some for my D14 when I get my Arc.







Yours is so well colour matched! I'll be going for a white and black with a bit of blue in the mix because I can only afford boards with blue slots!







Is that a Bitfenix fan controller? Got one too.


----------



## sectionsone

@ Malik
verry clean build and nice hardware. Got the inspiration


----------



## Malik

Thanks Guys, now im wating for 140mm fans for case... of course corsair air series


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:


Wow it's very nice. What's your apn ?


----------



## Michalius

Seeing all these R4's pushed me. Ordered one to replace my my Lian Li V700.

Also, bortoloj, that has to be the most gorgeous air build I've ever seen. I hope you don't mind if I steal some of your ideas.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Seeing all these R4's pushed me. Ordered one to replace my my Lian Li V700.
> Also, bortoloj, that has to be the most gorgeous air build I've ever seen. I hope you don't mind if I steal some of your ideas.


That rig is Maliks and it is indeed gorgeous.

EDIT:

Just ordered 2x 128GB 830s, 3x Corsair AF140s and a load of extensions to once again spruce up my sig rig.

Ordered extensions because my PSU is making a weird noise and I didn't want to sleeve it for it to die soon after.


----------



## Michalius

Ah, didn't look close enough for the quote. Thanks!


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:





Wow that cooler looks so nice, Love the Colour sceme and The Red Led Backlight Motherboard Panel


----------



## robollama

Had my R3 for about a year. Yesterday I moved my fan controller to the front of the case,and got jealous of the new R4's so I drilled out my rivets and took out my drive cage







I also took the opportunity to flip my PSU fan-side up and clean up cable management a bit...

Before:









After:








Fan controller knob is barely visible on top

I put the SSD in my empty drive bay under my optical disk, and laid the HDD down on the bottom of the case and ontop of foam I had laying around from some packaging to maybe absorb the vibrations and noise from it. The stuff is pretty stiff and seems sort of plastic-y so it might be amplifying more than its helping :S

All in all I'd say it was a successful day of cost-free ghetto modding (I'm broke atm if you can't tell!







)

Thinking about adding some fan ducts on the case fans next? Maybe direct some of that flow better...


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> All in all I'd say it was a successful day of cost-free ghetto modding (I'm broke atm if you can't tell!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Thinking about adding some fan ducts on the case fans next? Maybe direct some of that flow better...


u can mod those hdd holder if its only 1 or 2 hdd/ssd that you want to put into your case.
I did tat to my r3 for the time being.
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/992681/width/350/height/700


----------



## Egameman

new rig coming up..

crappy pic from my lumia 800 phone...

Still alot of work that needs to be done, this is just a test fitting..

- gpu block
- sleeve cables from pump, fan controller and 5mm led.

- drill out hole for plexiglass / acrylic

- 4 x 45 degfree rotaries
-1x 30 degree rotary and a bitspower drain valve









and cable management


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> Had my R3 for about a year. Yesterday I moved my fan controller to the front of the case,and got jealous of the new R4's so I drilled out my rivets and took out my drive cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also took the opportunity to flip my PSU fan-side up and clean up cable management a bit...
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan controller knob is barely visible on top
> I put the SSD in my empty drive bay under my optical disk, and laid the HDD down on the bottom of the case and ontop of foam I had laying around from some packaging to maybe absorb the vibrations and noise from it. The stuff is pretty stiff and seems sort of plastic-y so it might be amplifying more than its helping :S
> All in all I'd say it was a successful day of cost-free ghetto modding (I'm broke atm if you can't tell!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Thinking about adding some fan ducts on the case fans next? Maybe direct some of that flow better...





Hmm not bad, I dont see a Massive improvement but i can see you have taken out the HDD bays To get better airflow









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> new rig coming up..
> crappy pic from my lumia 800 phone...
> Still alot of work that needs to be done, this is just a test fitting..
> - gpu block
> - sleeve cables from pump, fan controller and 5mm led.
> - drill out hole for plexiglass / acrylic
> - 4 x 45 degfree rotaries
> -1x 30 degree rotary and a bitspower drain valve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and cable management





Not bad Looks like so far.


----------



## Egameman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Hmm not bad, I dont see a Massive improvement but i can see you have taken out the HDD bays To get better airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad Looks like so far.


thanks









As said , just a test fitting, been without a computer for 3 weeks now so...needed one









Will be doing it proper when I get the other parts


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> Had my R3 for about a year. Yesterday I moved my fan controller to the front of the case,and got jealous of the new R4's so I drilled out my rivets and took out my drive cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also took the opportunity to flip my PSU fan-side up and clean up cable management a bit...
> Before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan controller knob is barely visible on top
> I put the SSD in my empty drive bay under my optical disk, and laid the HDD down on the bottom of the case and ontop of foam I had laying around from some packaging to maybe absorb the vibrations and noise from it. The stuff is pretty stiff and seems sort of plastic-y so it might be amplifying more than its helping :S
> All in all I'd say it was a successful day of cost-free ghetto modding (I'm broke atm if you can't tell!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Thinking about adding some fan ducts on the case fans next? Maybe direct some of that flow better...


great forward thinking. you'd benefit in a better sense to mount the 3.5 in the opti bay, mount SSD (velcro) on
motherboard tray, get some better intake fans. the R3 was not a air-flow conscience case... it needs help.
remove the exhaust fan to the intake position till you can get a better fan setup for the intake.
is the front intake fan setup as exhaust? it looks turned around as exhaust?

airdeano


----------



## Flanders finest

Finally, after three weeks waiting, I got the PSU. Ordered it together with the Arc Midi, but the damn thing was out of stock.
Will move all my stuff from the old case to the Arc this weekend. Cooling will be OK, with five 140 mm case fans. All intake, I remove the back exhaust fan and place it in the top front fan position. Also will remove the expansion brackets in the back of the case, so the air can exhaust freely. And with two 120 mm heat sink fans, and one 135 mm fan on the PSU to finish it all of.


----------



## ahsjose

I have all my parts and currently working on my build. I was wondering how i would be able to put both my HDD and SSD in the 5,25 inch bays. And how do i remove the lower HDD tray? Build is going slowly but surely, watching youtube videos since it is my first build.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flanders finest*
> 
> ...and one 135 mm fan on the PSU to finish it all of.


i wouldn't count on the PSU fan for a whole lot of anything... most of the PSU (and lately all) won't ramp the
fan up until 60-80% load.some are completely passive till then. fan up for looks only.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahsjose*
> 
> I have all my parts and currently working on my build. I was wondering how i would be able to put both my HDD and SSD in the 5,25 inch bays. And how do i remove the lower HDD tray? Build is going slowly but surely, watching youtube videos since it is my first build.


there are several companies that make a dual HDD/SSD bracket for the 3.5/5.25 bays. holds one 3.5 and one
2.5 or 2 2.5 drives. or use your bay adapter for the 3.5 and velco the SSD to the motherboard tray (front or back)
or ontop of the HDD...
you'll ahve to drill the 4 rivets on the bottom of the case and the three on the front chassis to remove the lower
portion of the HDD cages.



leave the upper in and secured. drill the front panel rivet first, support the HDD cage when drilling or the brace will
bend. flip case onto the top and drill the lower four in the front rivets. remove top cage, remove lower cage and last
remove the upper guide (4-phillips screws) bolt it all back together and store for later.

airdeano


----------



## ahsjose

Finally finished my build. Will post pics soon. Not very happy with these CPU Temps (I have a Havik 140). Now I'm wondering if i applied thermal grease wrong.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahsjose*
> 
> Finally finished my build. Will post pics soon. Not very happy with these CPU Temps (I have a Havik 140). Now I'm wondering if i applied thermal grease wrong.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would re apply it if I had such differences between the cores. It's quite warm today in Uk and my Q6600 3.2 1.4v idling at 40c.

Give Core Temp a try, I prefer it to realtemp.


----------



## ahsjose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> I would re apply it if I had such differences between the cores. It's quite warm today in Uk and my Q6600 3.2 1.4v idling at 40c.
> Give Core Temp a try, I prefer it to realtemp.


Yea, I will do it tomorrow morning. Hopefully I do it right this time. What method is preferred? Spreading it or just putting some in the middle and letting gravity do the rest.

This is my setup right now.


----------



## ad3ath

I like the grain of rice/small pea method. Heat sink will spread the paste for you optimally.









Set up looking sweet btw! Jealous.


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

I agree with ad3ath, this is my first rig and I tried the pea method on a hyper 212+ with one fan and at stock speeds at full load 10 minutes I can't get the processor over 60 on all 4 cores, ambient temp is about 23, at idle it won't go over 30, so I highly recommended pea!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Latest pics:


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Latest pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, I thought that was the Bitfenix Recon. I got the same, makes me want to order the case NOW instead of waiting for the window bundle late year. Well done dude, nearly achieving perfection.







I'm going to do similar to you, but with black and white.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Thank you. The psu is really letting the look down. Luckily its started playing up so I guess I'll have to buy a new one that better matches the theme. Need to find a decent one that is black and red though.


----------



## Kyronn94

Before:



After:



Just trying to beat my previous overclock now that I have my D14 back.
Loving the Arc Mini so far!

The only difficulty I encountered when building was the SSD screws. It was almost as if they were too long, or my M4 is too small, it would not fit securely into the drive tray.
I used 4 screws from my Core 1000 instead.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Thank you. The psu is really letting the look down. Luckily its started playing up so I guess I'll have to buy a new one that better matches the theme. Need to find a decent one that is black and red though.


http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-010-XI&groupid=701&catid=123&subcat=

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-035-AE&groupid=701&catid=123&subcat=

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-149-AN&groupid=701&catid=123&subcat=

Found these, look pretty good. I would just take the sticker off your corsair if it wasn't faulty though. Maybe you could paint it red?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Thanks for the links. I'll most likely RMA my HX850 and sell the replacement and get a new PSU. My wife is going to love me


----------



## Ramsey77

Somewhere out there, someone was making replacement stickers for the Corsair power supplies. Might search and see what ya find.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Yeah I had a look in that thread and I thought about it but then my psu started playing up a direct I gave up on it


----------



## ad3ath

I really want to order one but I'm broke. Just got a new job though, can't wait for the side window bundle...so long to wait don't know if I will last.







The corsair fans look great but I might stick with some black and whites to go with my theme. I have the 120 corsairs and do think the 140's would be great, not the highest RPM and CFM though.


----------



## johnko1

What are the dimensions of arc mini and arc midi? I want to make a small server and I want as many drive bays as possible

Edit: Is there any photo with theese two together?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> What are the dimensions of arc mini and arc midi? I want to make a small server and I want as many drive bays as possible


The dimensions are listed on their website.


----------



## MoInSTL

How do I remove front bezel to get to second R4 drive cage screws? Do I pull from the bottom? I thought I only had to remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the case but there is a stabilizer arm with 2 more screw heads behind the front bezel. It's new and rigid plastic and don't want to break anything.

EDIT: I pulled from the bottom and it easily popped off. Hope it goes back on as easily.


----------



## xILukasIx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> How do I remove front bezel to get to second R4 drive cage screws? Do I pull from the bottom? I thought I only had to remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the case but there is a stabilizer arm with 2 more screw heads behind the front bezel. It's new and rigid plastic and don't want to break anything.
> EDIT: I pulled from the bottom and it easily popped off. Hope it goes back on as easily.


I was kind of confused at first too, but then the front panel came off so easily...
No problem at all!

And you can put it back on quite easily too.

I always thought there would only be 4 screws you have to remove, at least it looked like that from the videos.


----------



## YaMoBeThere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Stage II ready:


What heatsink is this? No info in the sig...

Thanks!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaMoBeThere*
> 
> What heatsink is this? No info in the sig...
> Thanks!


I believe it is this: http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=888&page=1


----------



## Diesel Phreak

I was convinced on upgrading to the Midi, but i'm really digging the sleekness of the R4 with that front door. I can't decide now lol To the guys that own the r3/r4 does all the noise damping techniques it uses really help with sound?


----------



## Shrak

I can honestly say that my Define XL (r3/4 bigger brother) made no sound with all fans ( gt15's ) on high.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*
> 
> I was convinced on upgrading to the Midi, but i'm really digging the sleekness of the R4 with that front door. I can't decide now lol To the guys that own the r3/r4 does all the noise damping techniques it uses really help with sound?


Noise dampening helps, but you need to choose between airflow and cooling or quieter with slight compromise on cooling/airflow. I have a case similar to the R3, but because it's a silent case I'm changing to the ARC for the airflow and 14cm fans! The R4 would be a good choice too though. I will overclock and like gaming, silence isn't important for me while gaming and when not gaming the 14cm fans can spin at low rpm and be almost silent anyway.


----------



## robollama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> great forward thinking. you'd benefit in a better sense to mount the 3.5 in the opti bay, mount SSD (velcro) on
> motherboard tray, get some better intake fans. the R3 was not a air-flow conscience case... it needs help.
> remove the exhaust fan to the intake position till you can get a better fan setup for the intake.
> is the front intake fan setup as exhaust? it looks turned around as exhaust?
> airdeano


Yeah I had accidentally flipped it around at some point, but shortly after the picture was taken I switched it back to intake. I have ZERO room behind my mobo for the SSD, so not sure what I'll do in regards to that. Possibly velcro under the opti bay.

Figured modding my pc case was a good excuse to finally get a dremel. Been wanting one for a few years now... Lowes had the Dremel 4000 3/34 on sale for $75. Normally $90-$100. Was only $5 more than the Dremel 3000 2/28 so if you've been holding off now's the time!









Taking some more inspiration from the Fractal R4, I combined my bottom two cable routing holes into one long hole, and just applied electrical tape over the edges until I can get some u-channel.









I also cut out the bottom + back honeycomb fan grills (even though I don't have a bottom fan yet). I applied weather stripping around the inside edge of the back grill in order to decouple the fan from the case and cut down on any vibration noise. I also applied some around where the PSU meets the case for the same reason.

Results of cutting out fan grills = No difference in temps :S


----------



## Exothermic1982

Got my R4 Friday, so far I've been pretty impressed. Only real complaint is the need to use screws to secure 120mm fans in the front. The video made it seem tool less for fans of all sizes. I'll post more when the rest of my parts arrive and I can start really building.

Updated with a shot of the h100 attached.


----------



## FL Ronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


Malik,

What is this mini keyboard looking device?


----------



## Emerican

Alright, so im looking into getting the R4 because I like the quality of it, sound dampening, and just overall quality.

Im finding mixed reviews and I myself am getting confused by pictures regarding the H100 and where it can be mounted.

So can someone clarify to me if the H100 can be mounted in the top 120m holes, or if it can be mounted in the front, if it will reach to the cpu.

I have been searching, but to no avail which is why I come before you


----------



## 301912

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FL Ronin*
> 
> Malik,
> What is this mini keyboard looking device?


http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-052-AQ


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FL Ronin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Malik,
> 
> What is this mini keyboard looking device?
Click to expand...

+1

I want one for my car-puter build.


----------



## Shrak

It's;

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13215/bus-259/Aquacomputer_Aquaero_5_XT_USB_Fan_Controller_Touch_Screen_Graghic_LCD_Liquid_System_Controller_w_Remote.html


----------



## Exothermic1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emerican*
> 
> Alright, so im looking into getting the R4 because I like the quality of it, sound dampening, and just overall quality.
> Im finding mixed reviews and I myself am getting confused by pictures regarding the H100 and where it can be mounted.
> So can someone clarify to me if the H100 can be mounted in the top 120m holes, or if it can be mounted in the front, if it will reach to the cpu.
> I have been searching, but to no avail which is why I come before you


I understand how you feel I emailed Fractal before purchasing and they told me it probably wouldn't fit.. That said if you mount it in the front with the 120mm fans in the fan holder the h100 will reach the CPU area. You will have to give up the hard drive cages though.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Emerican*
> 
> Alright, so im looking into getting the R4 because I like the quality of it, sound dampening, and just overall quality.
> Im finding mixed reviews and I myself am getting confused by pictures regarding the H100 and where it can be mounted.
> So can someone clarify to me if the H100 can be mounted in the top 120m holes, or if it can be mounted in the front, if it will reach to the cpu.
> I have been searching, but to no avail which is why I come before you
Click to expand...

Depends on your mobo and ram heatsinks AFAIK, but it's very tight fit nevertheless. (top)


----------



## Nemesis429

That's too bad about the H100 not being able to be mounted in the R4, well unless you have specific motherboard/ram to make it fit, you would have assumed they would have done the top like they did in the Arc







.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis429*
> 
> That's too bad about the H100 not being able to be mounted in the R4, well unless you have specific motherboard/ram to make it fit, you would have assumed they would have done the top like they did in the Arc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I discussed about it with a Fractal rep, and the reason(s) they didn't do an "arc-style" top were basically that:
1) if they'd just offset the fan mounts, it would have looked bad.
2) If they had made a separate top panel it would have driven the cost up. And it doesn't really fit the Define lineup.
3) radiator compatibility was a low priority

They did seem to realize that it is obviously a flaw in their design even though radiator mounting is/was a pretty low priority on the R4.
They also promised to look into alternate fan mounting options for the fronts of their cases







(= no more plastic clips maybe?)


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> They also promised to look into alternate fan mounting options for the fronts of their cases


my new mod might solve the fan clip in the front panel trick.. CAD/CAM drawings to boot..
more to come!

airdeano


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> They also promised to look into alternate fan mounting options for the fronts of their cases
> 
> 
> 
> my new mod might solve the fan clip in the front panel trick.. CAD/CAM drawings to boot..
> more to come!
> airdeano
Click to expand...

Pfft, CAD







Just grab a piece of metal and drill the damn thing









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## FDNFP14

Step 2 of my build:

Just got the mobo in the mail today. I know it is technically E-ATX but it fits perfectly in a Fractal Define R4. Waiting on the core i7-3770K and Mushkin redline ram that will be coming in a few days. Will post an update after I get that set up.

Sorry for the crummy picture quality, I blame it on the iphone flash. By the way, do not ask for cable management pics, the back of my case looks like a trainwreck


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Step 2 of my build:
> Just got the mobo in the mail today. I know it is technically E-ATX but it fits perfectly in a Fractal Define R4. Waiting on the core i7-3770K and Mushkin redline ram that will be coming in a few days. Will post an update after I get that set up.
> Sorry for the crummy picture quality, I blame it on the iphone flash. By the way, do not ask for cable management pics, the back of my case looks like a trainwreck





Nice, That fan down the bottom Looks strange down there on its own


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Step 2 of my build:
> Just got the mobo in the mail today. I know it is technically E-ATX but it fits perfectly in a Fractal Define R4. Waiting on the core i7-3770K and Mushkin redline ram that will be coming in a few days. Will post an update after I get that set up.
> Sorry for the crummy picture quality, I blame it on the iphone flash. By the way, do not ask for cable management pics, the back of my case looks like a trainwreck


Thank you for this picture! I've been waiting on buying a new mobo for my secondary gaming rig as I wasn't sure whether EATX would work out in there. This helps so much.


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Nice, That fan down the bottom Looks strange down there on its own


Haha I agree. I may eventually put a 120mm radiator there to water cool the vid card that I dont have yet


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Thank you for this picture! I've been waiting on buying a new mobo for my secondary gaming rig as I wasn't sure whether EATX would work out in there. This helps so much.


No worries man- just make sure to check the dimensions of the e-atx first. The Maximus V is only 10.1" wide but some e-atx are wider


----------



## Nemesis429

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I discussed about it with a Fractal rep, and the reason(s) they didn't do an "arc-style" top were basically that:
> 1) if they'd just offset the fan mounts, it would have looked bad.
> 2) If they had made a separate top panel it would have driven the cost up. And it doesn't really fit the Define lineup.
> 3) radiator compatibility was a low priority
> They did seem to realize that it is obviously a flaw in their design even though radiator mounting is/was a pretty low priority on the R4.
> They also promised to look into alternate fan mounting options for the fronts of their cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (= no more plastic clips maybe?)


And yet they made it so you can mount a radiator in the front







, silly fractal!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Pfft, CAD Just grab a piece of metal and drill the damn thing


ummm some people want details, other than a piece of sheetmetal with drilled holes ...
but thank you for your caring..

airdeano


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> ummm some people want details, other than a piece of sheetmetal with drilled holes ...
> but thank you for your caring..
> airdeano


Why so Sirius?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis429*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I discussed about it with a Fractal rep, and the reason(s) they didn't do an "arc-style" top were basically that:
> 1) if they'd just offset the fan mounts, it would have looked bad.
> 2) If they had made a separate top panel it would have driven the cost up. And it doesn't really fit the Define lineup.
> 3) radiator compatibility was a low priority
> They did seem to realize that it is obviously a flaw in their design even though radiator mounting is/was a pretty low priority on the R4.
> They also promised to look into alternate fan mounting options for the fronts of their cases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (= no more plastic clips maybe?)
> 
> 
> 
> And yet they made it so you can mount a radiator in the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , silly fractal!
Click to expand...

It just probably "happened" when they added the possibility to mount 120mm fans there








It's kinda weird that they didn't make the top watercooling friendly considering that closed loop coolers are gaining popularity fast.


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Got my R4 Friday, so far I've been pretty impressed. Only real complaint is the need to use screws to secure 120mm fans in the front. The video made it seem tool less for fans of all sizes. I'll post more when the rest of my parts arrive and I can start really building.
> Updated with a shot of the h100 attached.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for posting pics of the H100 in the R4. Very helpful. I was thinking about going for the XSPC Raystorm but knew I would probably be too lazy to clean the loop on a regular basis so the H100 would be perfect. How tight of a fit was it to get the heatsink to reach your CPU?


----------



## Exothermic1982

Reached easily with the block facing the way it is in the picture. Will probably fit better with your board since the CPU looks like it's place a little further forward than on the Gene. You do want to put the ram in first tho since the hoses stretch across that area and get in the way when installing.


----------



## macarule

Got a new PSU and cables


----------



## 301912

Awesome


----------



## Michalius

About halfway done with my R4 build. I must say, this is without a doubt the case to beat in the $100 price range. Everything from the voltage selector for fans to the brilliantly cushioned PSU mounting system has me completely in awe with the attention to detail.

Will post pics tonight!


----------



## ahsjose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Got a new PSU and cables


I want to get custom cables also but will they plug in straight into my PSU? I have an AX650 and I know corsair sells their own cables but if I buy them from bitfenix or somewhere else will I be able to use them?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Got a new PSU and cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looking fine.. hey an FYI, you can snake the front panel leads behind the motherboard and reattach so
you dont have them just there from the PSU grommet kinda out of place not being sleeved. they'd be
stealth from under the mobo.

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ahsjose*
> 
> I want to get custom cables also but will they plug in straight into my PSU? I have an AX650 and I know corsair sells their own cables but if I buy them from bitfenix or somewhere else will I be able to use them?


currently no one sell the replacement cables other than corsair. you can order online
some custom cables from asia that would be custom (choose from 8 or 10 colors),
but i hadn't used them before. i sleeve my own...
all the other cable companies sell extensions that still use your ax cables from the PSU.
TTL got from bitfenix a demo set to review and gauge interest. said only set in the
world at this time.

airdeano


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Got a new PSU and cables


This is the part where I start crying for not buying a modular power supply:drool:

Could this be done on a non-modular with sleeving kits? I'm not entirely sure I even know what a sleeving Kit is.


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrup*
> 
> Awesome


Thankyou









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> looking fine.. hey an FYI, you can snake the front panel leads behind the motherboard and reattach so
> you dont have them just there from the PSU grommet kinda out of place not being sleeved. they'd be
> stealth from under the mobo.
> airdeano


Thanks! I will try do that soon, hopefully ill be able to do it without taking out the motherboard








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xK1LLSW1TCHx127*
> 
> This is the part where I start crying for not buying a modular power supply:drool:
> Could this be done on a non-modular with sleeving kits? I'm not entirely sure I even know what a sleeving Kit is.


Thanks heaps!
Yes it can be done but requires a bit more effort Plus a voided warranty if you need to open up the unit


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> Yes it can be done but requires a bit more effort Plus a voided warranty if you need to open up the unit


there are ways to get around that.. it only sucks when you have to RMA the unit
and get a non-sleeved unit back.. but yeah, a modular is the way to go if sleeving
a PSU for RMA purposes.

airdeano


----------



## robollama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> looking fine.. hey an FYI, you can snake the front panel leads behind the motherboard and reattach so
> you dont have them just there from the PSU grommet kinda out of place not being sleeved. they'd be
> stealth from under the mobo.
> airdeano


care to explain this a bit better? im a little confused


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> care to explain this a bit better? im a little confused


Run the leads through the CPU cutout behind the motherboard, then all you see after they're attached is basically the connector and very very minimal cable.


----------



## Ramsey77

An update on ma mini. Cut out the center of my tint and peeled it off for more of a "window" look, and added red LED's on the ceiling behind the fans. What you think?


----------



## robollama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> An update on ma mini. Cut out the center of my tint and peeled it off for more of a "window" look, and added red LED's on the ceiling behind the fans. What you think?


Sexy!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Run the leads through the CPU cutout behind the motherboard, then all you see after they're attached is basically the connector and very very minimal cable.


Ah, thanks! That won't cause any kind of electrical issues? I guess the rubber insulation over the wires is enough...


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> Ah, thanks! That won't cause any kind of electrical issues? I guess the rubber insulation over the wires is enough...


no issue at all... the wire insulation is plenty of protection.

airdeano


----------



## robollama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> no issue at all... the wire insulation is plenty of protection.
> airdeano


Sounds great! I'm going to definitely do this tomorrow









Has anyone here drilled holes and added thumbscrews for the side panels? I'd rather just flatten out/cut off the ****ty metal tabs on the r3 and use thumbscrews as it always takes me like 10 minutes to get a panel back on lol


----------



## salokin

Anyone have an efficient way to get the dust off the front panel of the Arc Midi without taking it off? It's getting pretty dusty for me, and it's a real pain in the ass to take the front panel off with the fans hooked up.

Also, is/will there be a side window panel coming out anytime soon? I remember hearing last year it was in development, but haven't seen anything.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> An update on ma mini. Cut out the center of my tint and peeled it off for more of a "window" look, and added red LED's on the ceiling behind the fans. What you think?


make one for me now!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *salokin*
> 
> Anyone have an efficient way to get the dust off the front panel of the Arc Midi without taking it off? It's getting pretty dusty for me, and it's a real pain in the ass to take the front panel off with the fans hooked up.


Pop the side panel off so you can keep the fans from spinning with your finger and just take a vacuum or shop vac to the front filter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> make one for me now!


No.







If you have a glass/window shop that would cut you a piece, you'd be half way there.


----------



## AM106

FYI Newegg just dropped the price on the new R4 w/ window. I paid retail and can't be refunded the difference since I already opened the box...the $15 could have been one fan, oh well. Just wanted to save my fellow members some money.









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352021


----------



## YaMoBeThere

Just got my R4 and I have a quick question...

Would I be completely bonkers to install the psu fan facing up? Aesthetically it is much more pleasing that way, but I am worried about how much it will affect the overall performance of my rig. Has anybody tested out both configurations to see if there is a significant temperature difference?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

No difference from my experience.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaMoBeThere*
> 
> Just got my R4 and I have a quick question...
> Would I be completely bonkers to install the psu fan facing up? Aesthetically it is much more pleasing that way, but I am worried about how much it will affect the overall performance of my rig. Has anybody tested out both configurations to see if there is a significant temperature difference?


do it. there's no difference, I currently have the PSU facing up.


----------



## YaMoBeThere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> No difference from my experience.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> do it. there's no difference, I currently have the PSU facing up.


Thanks guys, face up it is!


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YaMoBeThere*
> 
> Thanks guys, face up it is!


I would love some pictures of this, just curious =) Actually, I'm sure quite a bit of people wouldn't mind seeing a few pics, just an idea


----------



## robollama

My X650 fan is facing up. seemed cooler that way... Lets heat naturally rise up out of the fan grill


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> My X650 fan is facing up. seemed cooler that way... Lets heat naturally rise up out of the fan grill


The fan pulls air into the PSU then spits it out of the back, hence filtering them on the bottom.



And the whole heat rises thing is irrelevant when fans are involved. Heat then goes where you tell it to.


----------



## ad3ath

I'll probably have my PSU facing up, it has no sticker showing that way. I found it's a bit cooler upside down, but doesn't make any difference really because it's a silent PSU. Fan has to work a bit harder if you have it fan up in my experience.

Trying to remove all thoughts from my head about Corsair 650D's 200mm intake and roof fans, case has far too many 5'' bays for my liking though. Also I think corsair are swapping my 120's for 140's on my AF series fans!! ^^


----------



## airdeano

the newer PSU will be a null point as the fans are not a player until 20%+ load..
so the fan isn't even spining. so calculating it to increase/decrease pressure or
temperature in the case is a mute point. it is mainly a looks point.

the thermal sensors determine when the fan will over-ride the profile or not..

airdeano


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> The fan pulls air into the PSU then spits it out of the back, hence filtering them on the bottom.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the whole heat rises thing is irrelevant when fans are involved. Heat then goes where you tell it to.


Or as ehume would say, "Air goes where you push it."


----------



## robollama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> The fan pulls air into the PSU then spits it out of the back, hence filtering them on the bottom.
> 
> And the whole heat rises thing is irrelevant when fans are involved. Heat then goes where you tell it to.


x650 is a hybrid design though. 90% of the time the fan never turns on, so heat rising from the grill should still play a factor.


----------



## Tritanium

My new R4!











Picture of the fz-140 fans to show they are compatible with the mounting system:


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tritanium*
> 
> My new R4!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the fz-140 fans to show they are compatible with the mounting system:


You'd have an easy 10 out of 10 if you would sleeve those wires. It's sitting at a 9 right now. Good job.









Edit: That V8 looks sick in there. Nice choice.


----------



## robollama

I agree, looks great already! Nice camera work









One quick and easy mod for R3 users to improve airflow a little is to remove the front doors covering the fans. They serve no purpose as far as I can tell. If you take the front panel off you can see where they connect to the frame. There's two sets of small plastic tabs per door you can GENTLY pry apart while pulling the door to remove them. Try not to break the tabs!

While I had the front panel off I also removed my unused eSATA and Power LED cords. (I didn't have the LED plugged in anyways). Should help cable management a bit. I have such trouble I need all the help I can get!


----------



## AM106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tritanium*
> 
> My new R4!
> Picture of the fz-140 fans to show they are compatible with the mounting system:


Nice rig! I was thinking about getting the NZXT FZs for the front of mine haha. How do you like them so far?

I'm planning on getting new fans for my H50, should I go with the GT AP-15s or Swiftech Helix in push pull? I know the GTs wouldnt go with my fan color scheme, but I do plan on doing a slight overclock and want the best one out of the two. I can get two of either one for roughly the same price.


----------



## Tritanium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AM106*
> 
> Nice rig! I was thinking about getting the NZXT FZs for the front of mine haha. How do you like them so far?
> I'm planning on getting new fans for my H50, should I go with the GT AP-15s or Swiftech Helix in push pull? I know the GTs wouldnt go with my fan color scheme, but I do plan on doing a slight overclock and want the best one out of the two. I can get two of either one for roughly the same price.


The FZ fans are awesome! They match the case and have nice sleeved cables that are the same length as the fans that come with the case. They move more air than the fans that come with the R4 but you can hear them at full speed where the stock ones are silent. I don't mind this though because I can just use the fan controller to dial them back to 7 volts when I don't need the extra air flow and want silence.


----------



## AM106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tritanium*
> 
> The FZ fans are awesome! They match the case and have nice sleeved cables that are the same length as the fans that come with the case. They move more air than the fans that come with the R4 but you can hear them at full speed where the stock ones are silent. I don't mind this though because I can just use the fan controller to dial them back to 7 volts when I don't need the extra air flow and want silence.


Thanks for the feedback. Definitely will be getting those in the near future.


----------



## Blizlake

I







Big fans


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big fans


Looks quite awesome with the Spectre.
I also like the way you mounted your HDD. Did you stick it on the sidepannel?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Looks quite awesome with the Spectre.
> I also like the way you mounted your HDD. Did you stick it on the sidepannel?


Cheers, if the fan was 1mm wider it wouldn't fit







I had to go back to using my 2x 120mm for the moment though 'cause I may have damaged the fan... Seems like it's no longer balanced, makes a weird grinding/ticking type noise which is annoying as







Will open her up next week and see if there's something wrong with the motor, maybe add a bit of oil too.
The HDD mount is kinda funny actually. As you can see I've drilled the bottom cage off: it's fixed with 6 rivets, four on the bottom and 2 on the mobo tray. The HDD is mounted with one screw through the top rivet hole and is resting on a piece of noise dampening material I had.


----------



## ad3ath

Arc Midi on it's way!









Also 3 Corsair AF140. Should be swapping my current 120 with corsair for 2 more 140's. Until then I will use the stock 140's in the roof and floor. Post pics when installed. Plan to get some Bitfenix extention cables to tidy up the look of it. Will also be going 3570k in a few months.









Noctua D14
Q6600
Gigabyte P35C-DS3R
4GB XMS3
VTX3D 7970
BeQuiet 600W White Limited Edition PSU


----------



## MoInSTL

Has anyone used the BitFenix Spectre All White 140mm Case Fan? I only have a Micro Center in my area and they do have it in stock. I want to use the same RPM as the stock fans since I will be using the fan controller. New Egg link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345006&Tpk=bitfenixn


----------



## Blizlake

I have a few 120mm spectres and they're great if you're looking for silent fans. Can't hear them 1m away at all.


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I have a few 120mm spectres and they're great if you're looking for silent fans. Can't hear them 1m away at all.


Thanks for the feedback. I wanted it to match and have the same RPM. My build has been delayed as my GPU died. EVGA received it yesterday and will be shipping it soon. In the meantime, I have to use the on board graphics. With no GPU fan running I was surprised at how quiet both stock fans and the Thermalright TY-140 on the Macho are.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> Has anyone used the BitFenix Spectre All White 140mm Case Fan? I only have a Micro Center in my area and they do have it in stock.


i've got four of them as well as the white LED 140. i tried cross-breeding the white blade in the white LED frames.
the effect was MEAH at best... i like the bitfenix fans, but the pro is a better fan.. the plain spectre is ok for window
side-panels, but just not the breather you kinda need for the R4.

they are decent, not the best, but decent a tick better than the stock R2 that might have come in the case. leaps
better than the OE 140 that also came in some of the cases. there are better for the same of less monies. being
a local sale is good, but i wouldn't settle for these at this time. the pro would be a better fan and paint the cage/blade
white if you are using a fan controller.

airdeano


----------



## Blizlake

I agree that the Pros are better, but why did you say he should paint the fans? The Pros come in white too...


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> I agree that the Pros are better, but why did you say he should paint the fans? The Pros come in white too...


I'm going to give it a try. The Silent Series R2 has a bit more CFM so I'll mount the Bitfenix in the bottom front. 1000k RPM is not going to be a blower regardless. If it doesn't work out, I can return it.

I'm not a "he" btw. Although I am in a very small minority, there are a few women like me who build their own.









Is this the one you guys are talking about? It's 1200 RPM vs 1000 RPM. In order to use the built in fan controller isn't the same RPM for all the fans better?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345045

FWIW, I removed both drive cages. I have an SSD and a 2.5" laptop drive mounted in one of the drive trays. Screwed the SSD into the tray and used another mount for the 2.5". on top of it. EDIT: Right now it sits on the bottom of the case.

I have an eSATA drive dock I use for the 3.5" spinners. So except for the GPU, there will be little heat. The HR-02 Macho comes with the 140mm Thermalright TY-140 too.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> FWIW, I removed both drive cages. I have an SSD and a 2.5" laptop drive mounted in one of the drive trays. Screwed the SSD into the tray and used another mount for the 2.5". on top of it. EDIT: Right now it sits on the bottom of the case.
> .


I did a similar install:


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> It's 1200 RPM vs 1000 RPM. In order to use the built in fan controller isn't the same RPM for all the fans better?


doesn't have to be.. you can mix and match.. the fan controller doesnt care.. it take
12v and reduces it to a lower voltage. what the fan does with it is up to the fan... not
the controller. but if you are looking for equal, then yeah.. same rpm would be desired.
but most fans have a varience of +/- 10%.. so its not an exacting science..

200rpm can make a lot of difference depending on blade profile, hub sizing, and
blade pitch. in slot of cases, its not just the cfm, it is also the static pressure.

i love my BGears 140 1800 rpm @ 12v and 1100rpm @ 7v. quieter than R2 but moves
a lot more air (75cfm) and static pressure to boot... the spectres were decent.. the pros
were good, but a louder noise without air movement @ 7-volt to match noise content.

airdeano


----------



## MoInSTL

I installed the Bitfenix fan and I don't know if it's defective or just makes an annoying sound. @7v it was quieter, but still had some irritating noise. I'm taking it back. Based on what a couple of you said, I may just gotten a whiner. I am hesitant to exchange it. In the meantime I just slapped in my Scythe 1200 RPM, 120mm. I can hear it, but at least it's smooth.

So no GPU for now as I mentioned before so I have not cleaned everything up. I should get a replacement from EVGA by the end of the week. In fact you can see one of the PCI-e cables coiled up on the floor. It almost looks naked with no GPU. I almost didn't post this since it's a work in progress and a real mess ATM. But it should enable me to join the club.









EDIT: I am running an i7-2600K @ stock. Ambient is 25C/79F. Using Real Temp 3.70 and @ idle I'm getting 33C on cores 0 & 3. 24C & 28C on the other two. I may have to tighten down the Macho. Used Tuniq TX-4. Need some more air to do a moderate OC.

I am willing to run a lower OC than deal with loud fans. I'm open to suggestions...
Could use this NZXT for the exhaust since it's 26dBa, 1300 RPM +/-10%, 62.5 CFM. Has anyone tried it?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146002 They have it at my local MC.



EDIT: I have ruled the NZXT out. Corsair Air Series AF140has higher CFM with lower dBA.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181028


----------



## Blizlake

Sounds like you just had bad luck with the fan as my fans don't have any type of clicking or whining, the noise is very smooth (except the 230mm which I'm still trying to figure out...). Even a GT or Noctua can have a clicky sound


----------



## MoInSTL

Well, maybe I should just exchange it afterall. The one @ Micro Center is not sleeved. The New Egg one is. I compared the part numbers and they are the same.

It was a clicky sound. At first I thought it was hitting the dust filter. But is also made some other noise too.


----------



## Adrenaline

Have a Quick question Do any of you think that the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo Fit in a Fractal Design Core 1000 ?


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Have a Quick question Do any of you think that the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo Fit in a Fractal Design Core 1000 ?


The Hyper EVO is 159mm in height. The Core 1000 only supports coolers with a height of 135mm. So unfortunately, the EVO will not fit in the Core 1000.


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> The Hyper EVO is 159mm in height. The Core 1000 only supports coolers with a height of 135mm. So unfortunately, the EVO will not fit in the Core 1000.


Ah okay Just wondering Gunna Stick to the Hyper TX3 Then


----------



## ad3ath

My Arc Midi comes on friday with 3 extra 140mm AF Corsair fans.

What is the best fan configuration for you guys so far? I was just going to have standard 2 intake, 2 up top as exhausts with the rear exhausting. This is with Noctua D14 and a dual fan gpu. Might get a 200mm for the top and use the Corsair's as intake and exhaust with a stock on the floor.


----------



## Capwn

She is almost done, Chopped the HDD cages out etc, Need to get my backplate, and sleeved cables, and Ill be pretty content I do believe.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> The Hyper EVO is 159mm in height. The Core 1000 only supports coolers with a height of 135mm. So unfortunately, the EVO will not fit in the Core 1000.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah okay Just wondering Gunna Stick to the Hyper TX3 Then
Click to expand...

The 135mm seems to be inaccurate as I have heard of people fitting bigger coolers in there. I think someone had managed to fit an Alpenföhn Matterhorn (157mm) but I could be wrong, so I'll take no responsibility if one does not fit









If you have the case, you can measure it yourself: Just measure the distance from CPU to side panel.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Have a Quick question Do any of you think that the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo Fit in a Fractal Design Core 1000 ?


The EVO will cause the door panel to bow out slightly. Click & read... http://www.anandtech.com/show/5736/fractal-design-core-1000-how-little-is-too-little/3

I'm currently modding my Core 1000 and had already checked the absolute max height. I had measured roughly 156mm to the door panel *but* I'm modding my panel door so I can use heatsinks up to 160mm


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> The 135mm seems to be inaccurate as I have heard of people fitting bigger coolers in there. I think someone had managed to fit an Alpenföhn Matterhorn (157mm) but I could be wrong, so I'll take no responsibility if one does not fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the case, you can measure it yourself: Just measure the distance from CPU to side panel.


Okay ill Try Measuring From Cpu to Side panel later then see if i can find the Right height for The 212 Evo. Thanks


----------



## Capwn

not even sure why I post anymore..


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn*
> 
> 
> She is almost done, Chopped the HDD cages out etc, Need to get my backplate, and sleeved cables, and Ill be pretty content I do believe.


Now that's real cool bro








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn*
> 
> not even sure why I post anymore..


*Keep posting* bro...I always enjoy seeing FD cases modded, especially the Arc Mini & Core 1000


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> The 135mm seems to be inaccurate as I have heard of people fitting bigger coolers in there. I think someone had managed to fit an Alpenföhn Matterhorn (157mm) but I could be wrong, so I'll take no responsibility if one does not fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the case, you can measure it yourself: Just measure the distance from CPU to side panel.


Yeah, I noticed just now looking at it. If you install a 120mm side panel fan, then you can only fit up to a 135mm HSF.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Yeah, I noticed just now looking at it. If you install a 120mm side panel fan, then you can only fit up to a 135mm HSF.










_*Come on*_...show some creativity & mod that panel door so you can fit a taller heatsink and use a side panel fan


----------



## robollama

As a result of taking the front panel off on my R3 so much I broke the connectors on the power switch. Damn thing was so small it took me 1 hour+ to solder it back together. Pain in the ASS! Be careful you guys









Question: My side panel that covers the cable management area bows out in the middle. Anyone have any solutions to straighten it back up?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> Question: My side panel that covers the cable management area bows out in the middle. Anyone have any solutions to straighten it back up?


Improve your cable management


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _*Come on*_...show some creativity & mod that panel door so you can fit a taller heatsink and use a side panel fan


What's the point though? I won't benefit from it anyway. I doubt I will be replacing the HSF anytime soon, so why put all the work into modding the side panel to fit a larger heatsink?


----------



## avattz

Hello guys, I plan on getting a Fractal Design Define Mini, but I wanted to know if this case can have a 360 radiator mounted on the back of the case without the radiator hitting the "floor". Anyone tried it or have pictures with a triple radiator on the back? I currently have a CM 690 II and a Fractal Design Define R3, but after downgrading from quad 7970 to dual 7970, there seems to be a lot of "extra" room, and I think I can squeeze it all inside a Fractal Design Define Mini with a single triple rad with 1850RPM GTs. I have an EK XTX 360, but I might get a Black Ice GTX360 depending if they perform well with low speed fans (quietness is the largest factor for me).

Thanks!


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> What's the point though? I won't benefit from it anyway. I doubt I will be replacing the HSF anytime soon, so why put all the work into modding the side panel to fit a larger heatsink?


That's simply the enjoyment of case modding







and I don't waste time making points...just a suggestion here & there.
_You do what you like at the end of day_


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn*
> 
> not even sure why I post anymore..


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capwn*
> 
> not even sure why I post anymore..


Sharing your ideas and photos is a great way to inspire other people. That's basically the whole idea of such communities as ocn - contribution. So keep posting, there will always be people who will appreciate your work. Nice custom loop btw.


----------



## MoInSTL

I went to Micro Center and returned the dud Bifenix fan. Picked up the Corsair AF-140 for exhaust and tidied things a a bit more. Nice sturdy fan, replaced with the white ring, rubber corners and close to 1000 RPM of stock Fractals.

Ambient 25C. Real Temp temps at idle: 33-25-28-32 +/- one or two degrees as it fluctuates. @7v it's pretty much the same. Was feeling a little disappointed with HR-02 Macho until I ran Prime95 Blended torture test. Temps were 55-54-58-59 with ambient around 27C. When I had the side open I tightened the Macho a bit more. Running @stock until I get GPU back.

Did a comparison of the two fans. Missing from Corsair's spec is bearing type. Anyone know what it uses?

Finished for now until My GPU RMA arrives.

*Bitfenix*
Bearing Fluid Dynamic Bearing
Speed 800 RPM to 1,000 RPM
Airflow 60 CFM
Maximum Air Pressure 1.93mmH2O
Noise Level 18 dBA
*Corsair*
Speed 1,150 RPM
Airflow 67.8 CFM
Maximum Air Pressure 0.84mm/H2O
Noise Level 24 dBA


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> Did a comparison of the two fans. Missing from Corsair's spec is bearing type. Anyone know what it uses?


Hydraulic.


----------



## ad3ath

Got my AF 140's today, must say I wasn't blown away by the airflow. Are much quieter than my 120's at 12V though. Hope they perform better in my Arc on Friday.


----------



## Bill Owen

A lot of requests for this guide after Fractal shared my photos..

Guide for modifying and installing 2x140mm (280) radiator in Fractal-Design Define R4 mid tower, http://www.mnpctech.com/casemodblog/2012/08/20/guide-to-installing-2x140mm-280-raidator-in-fractal-design-define-r4-mid-tower/


----------



## adi518

That's awesome Bill, thanks a lot !!


----------



## downlinx

kiss up


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Hydraulic.


Thanks for the info.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Got my AF 140's today, must say I wasn't blown away by the airflow. Are much quieter than my 120's at 12V though. Hope they perform better in my Arc on Friday.


I installed it as a rear exhaust and all I am hearing are the two front Fractal fans @12v. It's nice & quiet. Helped with temps too..


----------



## Ramsey77

I don't like unplugging my front fans every time I take the front panel off to clean, so I did a version of the front panel mod. I was just going to flush mount them to the frame like I have seen others do, but ran into a problem. The fan frame hits on the curled part of the drive cage, so instead of shifting it over to the right, I did it a bit differently to keep the fans centered. I took a piece of stainless steel, transferred/drilled all my holes, then sliced it down the center so I could mount it to the underside of the flange, thus giving me clearance at the hdd cage. Give the stainless a satin appearance with a palm sander, and this is the result:




























EDIT: oh yeah, I will post more pics of it installed later today hopefully. At work now.


----------



## adi518

Not sure, the motherboard tray on the R4, is it wider than on the R3?


----------



## Ramsey77

Installed:










I am glad everything lined up nice from my cardboard template.










Now I can remove the plastic clips attached to the front panel.


----------



## FDNFP14

Another update of my Fractal R4 Build. Again, sorry for the terrible quality picture. Finally picked up an H100 which fits perfectly in the front fan mount. Will eventually clean things up and post some real pictures but just wanted to show the fit of the H100


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Another update of my Fractal R4 Build. Again, sorry for the terrible quality picture. Finally picked up an H100 which fits perfectly in the front fan mount. Will eventually clean things up and post some real pictures but just wanted to show the fit of the H100
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What GPU are you planning on using?


----------



## JureS

Quick question. Is anyone using a H100 in an Arc Midi and if so, does it fit to the top panel without modding?

TY,

J


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JureS*
> 
> Quick question. Is anyone using a H100 in an Arc Midi and if so, does it fit to the top panel without modding?
> TY,
> J


Yeah it fits without modding.


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> What GPU are you planning on using?


Wait, I need a GPU?









I am thinking Radeon 7970 but am a little broke right now so will have to wait a little while. Any reccomendations?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Wait, I need a GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking Radeon 7970 but am a little broke right now so will have to wait a little while. Any reccomendations?


I was going to get a 7970 because I had a 6970 but I am so glad that I got a 670 instead. So far I've found Nvidia drivers to be much better and perform better.

BUT

7970 is also a good choice. My friend has one and he loves it.


----------



## Exothermic1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Wait, I need a GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking Radeon 7970 but am a little broke right now so will have to wait a little while. Any reccomendations?


LOL I'm in the same boat. Need more monies. The recent price drops on the ATI cards make them look pretty good especially since the black and red color scheme matches the Maximus V boards...

Updated with hard drive mounted:


----------



## Malik

Next corsair fans in case:


----------



## Marksy

Hi guys, I just got a Define Mini at a steal( albeit missing some parts, fans). Was wondering if I could fit a EX240 at the top with push fans exhaust if I mod? Or would there be clearance issues with the VRM heatsink/ Rams? Appreciate your help guys as I am looking to build a 2 x 240mm WC setup inside if possible. TY


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JureS*
> 
> Is anyone using a H100 in an Arc Midi and if so, does it fit to the top panel without modding?


if using push/pull try an not use large-headed screws. if using one fan set, use the short screw
and washers provided with the H100.


using H100 in push/pull. using the fan screws from a Corsair Carbide accessory box
# CC-8930026


showing overhang of MOSFET heatsink with push/pull. the corsair screws are shouldered (can't
screw them too deep) and have a large enough head to prevent pull-through.

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marksy*
> 
> Hi guys, I just got a Define Mini at a steal( albeit missing some parts, fans). Was wondering if I could fit a EX240 at the top with push fans exhaust if I mod? Or would there be clearance issues with the VRM heatsink/ Rams? Appreciate your help guys as I am looking to build a 2 x 240mm WC setup inside if possible.


you'll have to offset the upper roof grill to make the rad/fan combo clear the
MOSFET heatsink.
it is doable, you'll already have to revamp the roof for the second fan outlet,
offset the whole grill for mobo clearances, like its sibling the arc mini.. if you
dont offest, yes you will have mobo interferences if you have large enough
MOSFET heatsinks.

airdeano


----------



## Marksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> you'll have to offset the upper roof grill to make the rad/fan combo clear the
> MOSFET heatsink.
> it is doable, you'll already have to revamp the roof for the second fan outlet,
> offset the whole grill for mobo clearances, like its sibling the arc mini.. if you
> dont offest, yes you will have mobo interferences if you have large enough
> MOSFET heatsinks.
> airdeano


I saw this http://www.overclock.net/t/1202341/red-carbon-7x120mm-inside-a-define-mini-essentially-complete/350 and was wondering since the f12 fitted the middle and frost(the modder) was using a maximus iv gene, the heatsink must be pretty high. He did not offset the fan placements too so I'm wondering if it'd be fine just having it in the centre.. Besides, it would look better too.


----------



## airdeano

ummm yeah, he purposly is leaving it that way with one fan only.. because of the heatsink interfers
with the right-side of the radiator. he hasn't updated whether it will work or not..
problem with a tiny case like yours is you will have limited options. if looks is the deal breaker you
can go for it and report back on your results. but from my experience buying equipment like this
expensive and not using it to its full potential is futile. the high-end air coolers will provide better
performance than half radiator cooling...

airdeano


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Next corsair fans in case:





Damn I love the Look of Your Build Looks So Sexy


----------



## Marksy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> ummm yeah, he purposly is leaving it that way with one fan only.. because of the heatsink interfers
> with the right-side of the radiator. he hasn't updated whether it will work or not..
> problem with a tiny case like yours is you will have limited options. if looks is the deal breaker you
> can go for it and report back on your results. but from my experience buying equipment like this
> expensive and not using it to its full potential is futile. the high-end air coolers will provide better
> performance than half radiator cooling...
> airdeano


Yeah I sent him a pm about it. Im thinking of looks,performance and noise, therefore air coolers will not cut in terms of looks and noise. An arc mini would've served better in the performance area but looks wise Im not into the meshed top and front ( plus they generate these white dust circles overtime due to the fans) . Actually i've seen a few arc minis with top 140/280mm rads and fans tt also dont block the clearance so prolly would try out but wanna get a few views first to see what mods need to be done, also the front wanna know if i can fit a 240 rad fine or the screws do not align.(fans nt 15mm apart)


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tritanium*
> 
> My new R4!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture of the fz-140 fans to show they are compatible with the mounting system:


Hi, I am interested in SLIing in a Define R4 so I wanted to know how cool is your case & GPU during full load/OC, and you are only using 2 Fz-140+ 2 Stock fan?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marksy*
> 
> also the front wanna know if i can fit a 240 rad fine or the screws do not align.(fans nt 15mm apart)


Kaneda13 in this forum has done what your are looking to do..scroll back in this thread to view posts.

airdeano


----------



## robollama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Wait, I need a GPU?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking Radeon 7970 but am a little broke right now so will have to wait a little while. Any reccomendations?
> 
> 
> 
> LOL I'm in the same boat. Need more monies. The recent price drops on the ATI cards make them look pretty good especially since the black and red color scheme matches the Maximus V boards...
> 
> Updated with hard drive mounted:
Click to expand...

How is that mounted?


----------



## ekg84

just couple new shots of my core 3000 build


----------



## Exothermic1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> How is that mounted?


Under the front bezel you will see two screw holes on the right side. They are by default attached to some bracket type thing on the bottom 3.5 drive cage.

You can mount a drive here using one of the hard drive caddys.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just couple new shots of my core 3000 build


Very classy looking. I like.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*


*Real nice*







I've been heavily influenced by this simple & elegant design *but* I'll be taking this concept to the next level with my Core 1000 mod (_currently in progress_).

*I'll be posting the rough draft result on Aug. 28th*


----------



## ben1066

Does the H100 reach to the front of the Define R4? I'm thinking about sticking a H100 in with some Corsair SP120s. If not it'll be a H80 in the back with some SP120s.


----------



## airdeano

Press Release

Since the release of the Define R4 and it's windowed side panel, the Arc Midi
shares the same side-panel. part number FD-AC-WND-DEF4-ARC-BL. so the
windowed side panel in now available for the Fractal Design Arc Midi

airdeano


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben1066*
> 
> Does the H100 reach to the front of the Define R4? I'm thinking about sticking a H100 in with some Corsair SP120s. If not it'll be a H80 in the back with some SP120s.


Yes, it does but may depend on your motherboard and where the CPU mount is located. Check out the below spoliers to see two cases with it set up mounted in front:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ben1066

They are both Asus boards, I'm panning on using a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H, will it reach from that?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben1066*
> 
> They are both Asus boards, I'm panning on using a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H, will it reach from that?


Probably. If it doesn't, buy 25mm shrouds and place them before the front fans?
If you want to squeeze every mm possible to make sure it fits, buy low profile ram


----------



## ben1066

Already getting some Corsair Vengeance LP in Cerulean Blue


----------



## Exothermic1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben1066*
> 
> Does the H100 reach to the front of the Define R4? I'm thinking about sticking a H100 in with some Corsair SP120s. If not it'll be a H80 in the back with some SP120s.


Yes but you have to give up some HD cages.


----------



## Jolting

Got my new Define R4 a few days ago. My friend dropped it off at 8pm... I said I would wait until the morning, but at around 2am I snapped this 

I'll be starting a slow build log on this shortly. I got some big plans if an artisan I contacted is able to help me with it. I'll be back to this thread once I start.


----------



## ben1066

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Yes but you have to give up some HD cages.


Knew that, and it really isn't an issue for me, I don't need more than a few HDDs, and if I get an SSD I'll use the mount on the back of the motherboard tray.


----------



## oliverglue

Greetings guys









So I'm make my first build ever and I'm 100% settled on either FD define mini or the arc, if define is too bad with cooling.

So my question is basically about the cooling; what fans do you guys use? I've read like 50-100 pages of this thread already, and it seems like the majority use Noctua or the silent version from FD, if I'm not mistaken. What do you recommend? Personally I was looking at a cheap 4pin coolermaster fan and place 2 intake, 1 exhaust.

Awesome with any answer and so sorry if I shouldn't ask questions in this thread, I just can't seem to find the right people else where and there most be the right people here


----------



## robollama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *robollama*
> 
> How is that mounted?
> 
> 
> 
> Under the front bezel you will see two screw holes on the right side. They are by default attached to some bracket type thing on the bottom 3.5 drive cage.
> 
> You can mount a drive here using one of the hard drive caddys.
Click to expand...

Ah, slick!


----------



## MoInSTL

The OP of this club, Pieiam, hasn't been here in 3 weeks. So how does one become a club member?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolting*
> 
> Got my new Define R4 a few days ago. My friend dropped it off at 8pm... I said I would wait until the morning, but at around 2am I snapped this
> I'll be starting a slow build log on this shortly. I got some big plans if an artisan I contacted is able to help me with it. I'll be back to this thread once I start.


That's a nice window mod.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That's a nice window mod.


That is the R4 Window Panel that they make.

So glad it fits the Arc as well. Gonna get one when it comes out in the UK.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> The OP of this club, Pieiam, hasn't been here in 3 weeks. So how does one become a club member?


If you have one of FD products you're already a member, so just grab the signature code on the first page and enjoy.


----------



## ben1066

Also, anyone know where I can get the window panel in the UK?


----------



## adi518

Hehe







r3 rev3 has come along nicely...soon some more pictures.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> r3 rev3 has come along nicely...soon some more pictures.


Is it safe to keep the tubes lying on the GPU like that?


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Is it safe to keep the tubes lying on the GPU like that?


Thats What i was thinking :? Couldnt The Tubes Possibly Melt after Mabey Playing Games For a Couple of Hours?


----------



## Ramsey77

Yeah, I would flip that rad for sure. That's a recipe for disaster.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Press Release
> Since the release of the Define R4 and it's windowed side panel, the Arc Midi
> shares the same side-panel. part number FD-AC-WND-DEF4-ARC-BL. so the
> windowed side panel in now available for the Fractal Design Arc Midi
> airdeano


Did someone tested personally? Does the color match?
Because when I sit my R3 beside the Midi I can see a good colour difference.....
Do not know if it´s different with the R4....
Thanks for reply







)


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Yeah, I would flip that rad for sure. That's a recipe for disaster.


Or a recipe for some rubber top GPU.

*bud dum tss*


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Or a recipe for some rubber top GPU.
> *bud dum tss*


LOL, well it ain't a recipe for Rice Krispie Treats that's for sure!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> LOL, well it ain't a recipe for Rice Krispie Treats that's for sure!


You never know, some people have strange crazing


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Is it safe to keep the tubes lying on the GPU like that?


No, lol. They don't touch the gpu, it's an illusion.


----------



## DJKAY

Hey guys!
ARC MIDI WINDOW announced








Waiting to buy it......



And the Window:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> No, lol. They don't touch the gpu, it's an illusion.


Oh okay.


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Hey guys!
> ARC MIDI WINDOW announced
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting to buy it......


Now that's a good window,not like coolermaster which has a cutout for a fan,making it ugly...


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Now that's a good window,not like coolermaster which has a cutout for a fan,making it ugly...


True words....


----------



## dejo1

I am still in the building stage, just getting started into watercooling. so just the cpu in the loop for now. I just fitted the Koolance KP401x2 res with dual ddc1t pumps and Swiftech MCR220-XP rad and Swiftech Apogee XT block.
Asrock z77 Ex6, 2600k and gtx480 gpu.


----------



## DyndaS

When we can buy Arc Midi Window Case?
I'm interested.


----------



## CooperJS

Super keen for this side panel gonna look sexy!!

Cooper


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dejo1*
> 
> I am still in the building stage, just getting started into watercooling. so just the cpu in the loop for now. I just fitted the Koolance KP401x2 res with dual ddc1t pumps and Swiftech MCR220-XP rad and Swiftech Apogee XT block.
> Asrock z77 Ex6, 2600k and gtx480 gpu.





Nice! How are your temps with the 480? Also, love those QDC. I have my QDC on my pump/res too. Just in case the pump dies, I can easily switch it out.


----------



## Airrick10

I wonder how much it would cost if I was to just order the window panel for my Arc MIDI


----------



## ranviper

Ok with the window, I'm sold. =)


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> 
> I wonder how much it would cost if I was to just order the window panel for my Arc MIDI


20$ ~


----------



## Malik

Where i can buy this beauty window side panel. I need this !!!


----------



## Egameman

The rig is done just waiting for MAyhems Pastel white coolant, and saving up some cashmoney for a 240 rad in the front











I'm very happy with it so far


----------



## ad3ath

I couldn't wait to order a bundled case+ window. Fractal told me the window and bundle will come out in shops at the end of the year. I can't wait to order window, just got my Arc Midi up and running!







IT'S HUGE!!

I have currently 2 Corsair AF 140 front intakes, 1 for the rear exhaust. The 3 stocks fans on roof and floor. Noctua D-14. My case temps have gone from 43c idle to 31c on Q6600 @ 3.2GHz, my GPU idle is now 30c from 44c. What an improvement on airflow! 31c northbridge.

Going to find a 200mm fan with white or blue LED for the roof, I think white will look best. Perhaps the BitFenix Spectre PRO 200mm 147CFM! Either that or more AF 140's. But running out of fan connections tbh.

Can't wait for the side window!#

Temps also possible improved by going from MX-2 to Gelid GC-Extreme paste on motherboard and CPU!


----------



## Egameman

Guess I'll have to make my own window for the Arc Mini then Unless F D gets one out for that case too


----------



## ad3ath

I'm sure they will make one for the mini as well? Would be unfair not to! I'm so pleased with the quality of the case, it's insane what you get for £63.


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> I'm sure they will make one for the mini as well? Would be unfair not to! I'm so pleased with the quality of the case, it's insane what you get for £63.






agreed !!!

I'm still very surprised I could cram a FULL size rad in there, with all the other stuff and ( in my opinion) make it look good

Will be getting the Midi when I have room for it ...need a bigger office and a nicer wife hehe, she wont have a big case on the desk: since it's in our bedroom


----------



## ad3ath

The midi is so wide I am in love! I will take pics soon, it's just as nature intended right now apart from a Bitfenix Recon Controller and no optical drive to make it look swish! The mesh is much more flat on top of case than I expected, looks warped in all the videos I saw. Strong enough to hold my z-680 control unit.


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Anybody know where I can find some honeycomb mesh like the one on the arc midi? I've been thinking about laying some of that mesh on a 5.25 inch metal skeleton frame thing and using that to cover the optical drives, and then doing a stealth optical drive type thing with the mesh as well


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xK1LLSW1TCHx127*
> 
> Anybody know where I can find some honeycomb mesh like the one on the arc midi? I've been thinking about laying some of that mesh on a 5.25 inch metal skeleton frame thing and using that to cover the optical drives, and then doing a stealth optical drive type thing with the mesh as well


This website has some...although you might want to try ebay and see if you find any

http://www.mnpctech.com/moddersmesh.html


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Egameman*
> 
> The rig is done just waiting for MAyhems Pastel white coolant, and saving up some cashmoney for a 240 rad in the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very happy with it so far


Good job.


----------



## DiamondCut

Calling all Fractal Define R4 owners! What have you all been able to fit into the top of the two 140mm grills? I want to know what Rad/fan set up can fit, no closed loops. Thanks!


----------



## ad3ath

Just ordered a Bitfenix 200mm Spectre Pro White LED for top of my case, should be a great improvment over the stock fans I'm using. Can't wait will post pics when it's installed, if it fits haha.


----------



## Tritanium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Hi, I am interested in SLIing in a Define R4 so I wanted to know how cool is your case & GPU during full load/OC, and you are only using 2 Fz-140+ 2 Stock fan?


Right now I am running the two fz-140's in the front and one of the stock fans for exhaust but will probably put the other stock fan in somewhere. I just did a quick test in dirt showdown and my gpu temps got up to 93°C on the top card







. The cards are 6970's.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Man I really hope they release a window for the define mini or arc mini. I've been holding off on buying a new case but a new side panel would make me buy one in a second.


----------



## Adrenaline

I really wish they would release a Windowed Version or The Core 1000 That would be Sweet.


----------



## Egameman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Good job.


thank you


----------



## Jolting

I couldn't be happier with the way the side panel deals with light. Excuse the night shots + lumia 710.


It really looks amazing in person.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolting*
> 
> I couldn't be happier with the way the side panel deals with light. Excuse the night shots + lumia 710.
> 
> It really looks amazing in person.


The lighting does its job very well IMO.








Even with phone picture quality.


----------



## ekg84

Just posted a short build log, if someone is interested please take a look







:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1298284/case-mod-turbo-core-3000/0_50


----------



## adi518

You switched the psu ekg.


----------



## Jabba1977

Hi...good night!!.

I have purchased one Fractal Define R3 white...

I´ll planing replace all fan in order to achive a minum noise / min temps on load.

I haved buyed this fan for replacement and this rehobus.

*3x NOISEBLOCKER MULTIFRAME MF12-P*

*And Two Red vortex 140 mm*
*
REHOBUS --> LAMPTRON FC9*

I´ll planing two NB on front, one in the cpu cooler (Prolimatech panther..is come with a red vortex 120mm)

One 120 mm prolimatech red vortex (cooler cpu) on botton

And one 140mm prolimatech red vortex on floor

Any suggestion about this? (I reserved one 140mm red vortex because I don´t want replace de noise absortion panel is not necessary).

Thank you to all, and sorry for my english!!!.


----------



## MoInSTL

I have the same PSU as ekg84 . Nice & quiet IMO. I bought it before I bought my R4. Worked out nice with the black & white colors.

Interesting orientation of it. I have mine fan side down. Does it help cooling in that position?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> You switched the psu ekg.


lol yeah man it just looks so much better this way


----------



## MoInSTL

But does it help cooling?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> But does it help cooling?


in theory its better for the psu to intake air from the outside of a case, cause its cooler. But in reality - if case has decent airflow - it doesn't really matter how u mount the psu.


----------



## CooperJS

So where can you buy the fractal design side windows??

Cooper


----------



## ad3ath

They just announced it, they told me towards end of the year. Hopefully sooner though, I currently got my side covers reversed so dust dont get in lol. Will pop up in etailers soon I hope!


----------



## quietpressure

Hello, I'm looking to buying a Define Mini for my first build.

But, I am worried that the Define Mini might not be wide enough to fit the protuding copper pipes of this Zotac GTX 670 AMP card...










I can't find the dimensions on their website too


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zrlan7710*
> 
> Hello, I'm looking to buying a Define Mini for my first build.
> But, I am worried that the Define Mini might not be wide enough to fit the protuding copper pipes of this Zotac GTX 670 AMP card...


It should just Fit With some left over room.


----------



## SupaSupra

Bought me another Arc Midi for my parents. Still loving mine, although my 580s are cramped.


----------



## Ramsey77

Got rid of the fan clips, plastic frame, and filter material. I thought it looked kind of dull so I made a "beauty" ring out of aluminum, and polished the snot out of it. I can't wait to see what it looks like on. What you think?


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice







look... I like it & can't wait to see the fans behind it


----------



## quietpressure

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Got rid of the fan clips, plastic frame, and filter material. I thought it looked kind of dull so I made a "beauty" ring out of aluminum, and polished the snot out of it. I can't wait to see what it looks like on. What you think?


Oooo, shimmering. Good job.


----------



## Charlie--

Just found some great news for Arc Midi owners that FD now have a window panel for the Arc too - Window Side Panel Arc Midi





Now if I can find stock of this panel in the UK - I will be buying one ASAP.

@Ramsey77 - Really like your front panel mod







, I can't wait to see the photos of it on the case with fans fitted


----------



## Ramsey77

Here you go. I think I will rip the stickers off of the fans. What do you think? Should I paint it all black?


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Here you go. I think I will rip the stickers off of the fans. What do you think? Should I paint it all black?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Definitely remove the sticker. The sparks really harm the look of the PC. I would personally paint them red so they don't blend in too much with the front panel. That pop of color should do some good.


----------



## Ramsey77

Yeah, I am going to revise it tomorrow at work. I will post pics tomorrow night. Everything behind the front grill is getting blacked out, and I am going back to my Slipstreams up front. Debating on painting the fans white. Not sure yet. Thoughts?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Here you go. I think I will rip the stickers off of the fans. What do you think? Should I paint it all black?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


de-sticker those fans and a low level sheen black on the ally details ('cuz you have nuttin' else shinny)
a good paint sheen (matches the chassis color really well is SEM black trim paint (39143).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Yeah, I am going to revise it tomorrow at work. I will post pics tomorrow night. Everything behind the front grill is getting blacked out, and I am going back to my Slipstreams up front. Debating on painting the fans white. Not sure yet. Thoughts?


painting the blades white would be a greater contrast and would pull the eye away from the beaming red LED in the controller.
im not an LED guy, but ive tried LEB probe lighting the front blades and cant get excited about 'em, so just the white blades
for me.

airdeano


----------



## Ramsey77

I know that I am not satisfied with the way it is right now, but I am not sure what I want to do about it. Tossing some ideas around, and I would like to stay a bit different than everyone else, so I probably won't paint my fans white.


----------



## oliverglue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverglue*
> 
> Greetings guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm make my first build ever and I'm 100% settled on either FD define mini or the arc, if define is too bad with cooling.
> So my question is basically about the cooling; what fans do you guys use? I've read like 50-100 pages of this thread already, and it seems like the majority use Noctua or the silent version from FD, if I'm not mistaken. What do you recommend? Personally I was looking at a cheap 4pin coolermaster fan and place 2 intake, 1 exhaust.
> Awesome with any answer and so sorry if I shouldn't ask questions in this thread, I just can't seem to find the right people else where and there most be the right people here


Bump please


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverglue*
> 
> Greetings guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm make my first build ever and I'm 100% settled on either FD define mini or the arc, if define is too bad with cooling.
> So my question is basically about the cooling; what fans do you guys use? I've read like 50-100 pages of this thread already, and it seems like the majority use Noctua or the silent version from FD, if I'm not mistaken. What do you recommend? Personally I was looking at a cheap 4pin coolermaster fan and place 2 intake, 1 exhaust.
> Awesome with any answer and so sorry if I shouldn't ask questions in this thread, I just can't seem to find the right people else where and there most be the right people here


Im thinking about Upgrading my Core 1000 To either a Define mini or a Arc Mini, Just For better cable management and for better cooling. Im Not to sure yet which one i will Pick Though Probably the Define mini, Also yeah most people are using Noctuas which are Pretty Expensive or The stock Fans Which acctually arent that bad there Quiet and Push Decent amount of air aswell if you want to Buy more they are pretty Cheap I bought a 92mm For my Rear fan For £4 Something, And i have 2 Coolermaster sickleflow red led fans one in the front and one in the side panel they are cheap and good also.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just opened my case to have a look at my 670 to see how I can stop it fro sagging and noticed that it's stupidly dusty inside and then realized that I'm running a negative pressure setup now that I'm not using the side panel fan. Such a silly little thing to miss. Going to swap my H100 to intake and add some dust filters. That should hopefully sort it out.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverglue*
> 
> Bump please


fans depend on how much cooling, if you care about looks, and price you would pay. imo i like the coolermaster r4's they are fairly cheep and look good. people that go with the fractal fans are mainly because they want to keep the b&w theme case.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverglue*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oliverglue*
> 
> Greetings guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm make my first build ever and I'm 100% settled on either FD define mini or the arc, if define is too bad with cooling.
> So my question is basically about the cooling; what fans do you guys use? I've read like 50-100 pages of this thread already, and it seems like the majority use Noctua or the silent version from FD, if I'm not mistaken. What do you recommend? Personally I was looking at a cheap 4pin coolermaster fan and place 2 intake, 1 exhaust.
> Awesome with any answer and so sorry if I shouldn't ask questions in this thread, I just can't seem to find the right people else where and there most be the right people here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bump please
Click to expand...

I like these Slipstreams from Scythe, only on a fan controller though, as these particular high speed units are a bit noisy at 12 volts, but they really move some air. They do come in a couple other RPM's too.

http://www.Newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-185-060


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I like these Slipstreams from Scythe, only on a fan controller though, as these particular high speed units are a bit noisy at 12 volts, but they really move some air. They do come in a couple other RPM's too.
> http://www.Newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-185-060


If you're looking for something different, I suggest you consider to use these fans with that polish rim... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835119032

The contrast would be sweeeet


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Switched my H100 fans to intake and it knocked 3 degrees off and still looks good.

Bonus!!!


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oliverglue*
> 
> Bump please


NZXT FN Series. They are better and cheaper than FD fans (from what I've seen).


----------



## DJKAY

That`s the way I like......


----------



## Malik

Some testing with lighting:


----------



## adi518

I can't take it anymore.









Gotta say Corsair really nailed it with the design of these fans.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I can't take it anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gotta say Corsair really nailed it with the design of these fans.


You must.. because im not finish


----------



## johnko1

The corair fans are really nice.You just have to use some white leds and it looks great!


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> NZXT FN Series. They are better and cheaper than FD fans (from what I've seen).


But 37.25 dBA? Yikes!

I went with the Corsair AF-140 for rear exhaust and put the white ring on it.


----------



## K4IKEN

Malik, your set-up looks amazing. For some reason, every time I see your heatsink it reminds me of Portal, lol. But seriously, everything is well thought out and well put together. Good job!









What camera and lens are you using?


----------



## corysti

Hey everyone! I decided to wait a week until I would post on here since i wanted to make sure I would be keeping the case. I had a old thermaltake spedo case for over 2 years and it was an okay case but I got tired of the flashy style of the case and wanted something simple and more professional. I was looking at a few cases on newegg around the first of the year and I loved the look of the R3 from the time it came out but just couldn't force myself to get it and I'm glad I did! I ended up buying the new R4 last week and I will say it has to be my favorite case out of the last three cases I've bought. The sad part about this is that this is my cheapest case I bought. Cable management is good and the room in it is pretty good for a mid size case. My only complaint with this case is the 8 pin power for my motherboard is a B*tch to get to when my cooler is on it but that's something I can live with. I will get pictures of the case once im done with getting it all button up.


----------



## Ramsey77

Looks better with different fans and everything blacked out under the front panel. I am gonna leave the ring polished for now to see if it grows on me. I still haven't decided if I want to paint it black or not.


----------



## SirWooties

Will Fractal Design design a side panel window for the ARC MINI ?


----------



## corysti

@Ramsey77 how thick is that door on your case?


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> @Ramsey77 how thick is that door on your case?


My guess is 1/8"


----------



## corysti

I was thinking the same thing...Just wondering.


----------



## johnko1

Does fractal design sell spare parts? I want some hdd cages fro the arc series...


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Does fractal design sell spare parts? I want some hdd cages fro the arc series...


Contact Fractal Design. It works fine when getting a replacement; I'm not sure if they are willing to sent in spare parts though. It's worth a shoot.


----------



## noodles002

Hi,

I'm trying to assemble my r4.
I'm not a noob but it is my first self build, unfortunately it's assumed that you know exactly what you are doing, the instructions are somewhat lacking.

In the past I've attached hdd drives to the bays using side screws, can I assume that this time I put 4 screws from the bottom through rubber grommets?

Also there are 12 rubber spacers included, what are they for?

Thanks


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noodles002*
> 
> Hi,
> I'm trying to assemble my r4.
> I'm not a noob but it is my first self build, unfortunately it's assumed that you know exactly what you are doing, the instructions are somewhat lacking.
> In the past I've attached hdd drives to the bays using side screws, can I assume that this time I put 4 screws from the bottom through rubber grommets?
> Also there are 12 rubber spacers included, what are they for?
> Thanks


Yeah, just whiz the screws through the rubbers on the bottom of the HDD sled. Not sure about the spacers though, probably for fan mounting?


----------



## noodles002

Thanks, should I be screwing them really tightly or just up to the grommets?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noodles002*
> 
> Thanks, should I be screwing them really tightly or just up to the grommets?


Not too tight and not too loose


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> @Ramsey77 how thick is that door on your case?


It is 1/8th inch "double strength" glass.


----------



## MoInSTL

On page 4 in the R4 manual it says the rubber spacers are for mounting additional fans for the top or side panel positions. 3 extra fan options = 12 rubber spacers. It's under the Mounting Additional Fans heading. Maybe RTFM since this is your first build.


----------



## noodles002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Not too tight and not too loose


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> On page 4 in the R4 manual it says the rubber spacers are for mounting additional fans for the top or side panel positions. 3 extra fan options = 12 rubber spacers. It's under the Mounting Additional Fans heading. Maybe RTFM since this is your first build.


Lol, damn there was me hoping that there was another manual which didn't come with mine, nope it's there. Clearly I didn't skim the manual properly. Thanks. I've almost finished building it, I love the quietness!


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> But 37.25 dBA? Yikes!


They're not the quietest, but specs are rarely accurate.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Hopefully going to recreate the false wall in my Midi tomorrow. All depends if Physio is harsh on me.

I finally figured out what was making my case vibrate loads, turns out it was my Samsung F3. Going to try to come up with something to sort that out soon.

Also thinking about cutting the window but with the announcement of the official one I'm tempted to just wait it out and buy that one.


----------



## Behrouz

Does anyone know when the windowed panel for the Arc Midi is coming out?


----------



## airdeano

ive contacted eight etailers and they all have not a clue when the Midi
windowed-side panel will be available. geeze...

airdeano


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

I've got 4 hdd's running RAID 10 and the noise I'm getting out of them is somewhat annoying haha, I don't mind fan humming but the random fast clicking is going to drive me to insanity =( anybody have any ideas how I can muffle the sound a bit, maybe eradicate it completely? Will creating a styrofoam wall around the cage help at all? Thanks guys, I just really don't know what material will help. I know egg cartons might help but that's weird looking.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xK1LLSW1TCHx127*
> 
> I've got 4 hdd's running RAID 10 and the noise I'm getting out of them is somewhat annoying haha, I don't mind fan humming but the random fast clicking is going to drive me to insanity =( anybody have any ideas how I can muffle the sound a bit, maybe eradicate it completely? Will creating a styrofoam wall around the cage help at all? Thanks guys, I just really don't know what material will help. I know egg cartons might help but that's weird looking.


I've seen 650D owners wrap rubber bands around their HDDs then install them in the sleds like normal. Supposedly reduces the read/write noise.


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> I've seen 650D owners wrap rubber bands around their HDDs then install them in the sleds like normal. Supposedly reduces the read/write noise.


Like white literally just wrap rubber bands around the Drives? I'm assuming that stops vibrations, right? don't the rubber grommets on the arc midi trays help with that? Thanks for the suggestion =) I'm gonna fine a bag of black rubber bands and give it a shot


----------



## corysti

I have a question about the r4 and not sure if it has been covered yet. While i know you can put a radiator in the front of the R4 I was wondering if the H100 by corsair will work in this case...Can you mount the radiator at the top?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I reckon it's possible to mount the h100 in the roof by offsetting it so you use the holes in line with the 140mm holes.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> ive contacted eight etailers and they all have not a clue when the Midi
> windowed-side panel will be available. geeze...
> airdeano


Fractal said end of the year, they have only announced the panel. According to their website it's the same panel for both the R4 and the ARC, has same product code. I expect it to come latest November, but that's hoping.


----------



## rovert19

Hi there, I have a define r3 and was wondering where in Canada can I get the windowed side panel. I've tried looking everywhere and cannot find any retailers that carry them. I tried contacting fractal numerous times but I never get a reply. Thanks!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rovert19*
> 
> Hi there, I have a define r3 and was wondering where in Canada can I get the windowed side panel. I've tried looking everywhere and cannot find any retailers that carry them. I tried contacting fractal numerous times but I never get a reply. Thanks!


the earlier cases might have had a panel available, but if not now listed, your pretty much on your own
to create your own window. pretty average install. difficulty would be a 3 outta 5.
working with power tools, grinding, sharp edges. 



 has a fine video on how.

airdeano


----------



## rovert19

Well since I don't own any power tools I think it'd be much easier to just purchase the one from fractal. It was announced in July in their newsletter that they were selling these so hopefully there are still some left. I just can't find them anywhere.


----------



## airdeano

well youll have to get in the boat with alot of others...

airdeano


----------



## rovert19

Well that's a bummer. Thanks for your reply airdeano.


----------



## airdeano

invest in a $15 jigsaw or $60 dremel, $5 plexi and $5 3m 410 tape and do it yourself.
i do it alot of the time for customer builds and its a piece of cake. juts plan out the cut,
file the egdes smooth and tape down the plexi.

airdeano


----------



## ad3ath

Got my Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200mm white LED for the roof.

It fit's in (just) and uses quite random mounts, 1 screw had to go through the mesh lol. It's secure and looks pretty good. Can't wait for a window.

Very dissapointed with the airflow this fan is producing in it's current place. I think I will have to cut a hole in the mesh but to be honest the arc has such good airflow I don't see it being that much different.

Arc midi, [email protected] 1.34vcore only 49C on P95 with the D-14. 3 Corsair AF 140, 1 fractal fan on the bottom as intake and the 200mm up top. Can take pics if anyone wants to see how it looks, doesn't look great, but will look better when the window is released.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Got my Bitfenix Spectre Pro 200mm white LED for the roof.
> It fit's in (just) and uses quite random mounts, 1 screw had to go through the mesh lol. It's secure and looks pretty good. Can't wait for a window.
> Very dissapointed with the airflow this fan is producing in it's current place. I think I will have to cut a hole in the mesh but to be honest the arc has such good airflow I don't see it being that much different.
> Arc midi, [email protected] 1.34vcore only 49C on P95 with the D-14. 3 Corsair AF 140, 1 fractal fan on the bottom as intake and the 200mm up top. Can take pics if anyone wants to see how it looks, doesn't look great, but will look better when the window is released.


Sounds cool! I've got a 230mm one on the front and it pushes loads of air even @5V, so I'm kinda surprised to hear that you're disappointed at the airflow


----------



## AbdullahG

@Blizlake When you had your Core 1000, was it difficult mounting the Antec Khuler 620 in the front? I plan on getting it.


----------



## ad3ath

In the Arc a 230 at the front?? lol. I think the lack of airflow is because my exhaust is very powerful, and the D-14 probably steals the air from it, out of the case it shifted a ton of air, it also probably doesn't have the pressure to blast air through the mesh and then the top filter. Will look cool though when I get window so not a loss at all.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> @Blizlake When you had your Core 1000, was it difficult mounting the Antec Khuler 620 in the front? I plan on getting it.


I'll be mounting a 620 or possibly a 920 on the outside rear (_have not decided which 1 to use_) of the Core 1000...I suggest you do that so you can take advantage of using that fan for your gpu


----------



## johnko1

Are there any builds with modded core 1000? I want to make this a server case so I would like to see possible mods


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> I'll be mounting a 620 or possibly a 920 on the outside rear (_have not decided which 1 to use_) of the Core 1000...I suggest you do that so you can take advantage of using that fan for your gpu


The Antec Khuler is actually for the GPU, not the CPU. I plan on mounting it to the GPU to keep noise and heat down (and so I can overclock further than 800MHz/1700MHz).


----------



## drBlahMan

*CORE 1000 FRONT BEZEL DUAL 120MM TURBINE MOD IN PROGRESS*










This is basically the conceptual idea for this Core 1000 front bezel mod project. The stock appearance will be totally transformed. There will be (*2*) turbine fans and for a stealth-look, the top optical bay will be a slot-load dvd. There will be a laser-cut, 1/4" thick black acrylic (opaque) for the face-plate that will be attached to the front bezel. In between the turbine fans, there will be a 16mm vandal on/off switch to power the front fans. The top fan will cool the single hard-drive that will be installed in the bottom optical drive bay. The slot-load tray that will be installed in the top optical drive bay will house the slot-load dvd drive and while installed, up to (*4*) SSD's can be installed.










Everything on the front bezel was removed (_2nd optical bay cover will be removed later_) and then I had to cut out the plastic grill since it's originally part of the bezel.










This is the 1st mock-up evaluation. I had temporarily installed the slot-load tray and attached the bezel on the case so I can take the necessary dimensions. I had used the dimensions to draft out an electronic sketch for an acrylic laser cutting company to fabricate the acrylic face-plate.










The 1/4" thick, black acrylic (_opaque_) face-plate was delivered with the cut pieces in place just as it appears in the image. All the openings were cut perfectly, based on the sketch I had provided.










This is the 2nd mock-up evaluation. All openings are perfectly cut and placed. As stated earlier, there will be a 16mm vandel on/off switch centered between the turbine fans. It will also power the fans. Underneath the bezel you can clearly see that I need to do some more cutting so the (*2*) turbine fans can be used appropriately.

*I'll be back with more updates*


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> @Blizlake When you had your Core 1000, was it difficult mounting the Antec Khuler 620 in the front? I plan on getting it.


Pretty painless tbh since the front of the case actually has the 120mm holes needed for mounting the rad. Just screwed the rad on the case and fan to the rad. You could even get a push/pull if you mount the push fan on the outside of the case with either the plastic clips on the front panel of the same screw holes on the front (would require breaking the clips off).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> I'll be mounting a 620 or possibly a 920 on the outside rear (_have not decided which 1 to use_) of the Core 1000...I suggest you do that so you can take advantage of using that fan for your gpu


The problem with that is that you'll need an 92mm-to-120mm adapter for it to work properly. I didn't notice that my gpu would have been starving or anything, I used a bitfenix spectre on the sidepanel.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> The problem with that is that you'll need an 92mm-to-120mm adapter for it to work properly.


Not a problem for me







Regarding the images I had posted, in the last image if you look to the left, you'll see my 92mm-to-120mm adapter


----------



## Blizlake

Haha yeah I'm sure it ain't a problem, I just prefer to have my setup somewhat clean







how will you run the hoses though?
The new front looks great btw, will you be painting the "turbines" to match the panel?


----------



## tambok2012

drBlahMan


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> *CORE 1000 FRONT BEZEL DUAL 120MM TURBINE MOD IN PROGRESS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is basically the conceptual idea for this Core 1000 front bezel mod project. The stock appearance will be totally transformed. There will be (*2*) turbine fans and for a stealth-look, the top optical bay will be a slot-load dvd. There will be a laser-cut, 1/4" thick black acrylic (opaque) for the face-plate that will be attached to the front bezel. In between the turbine fans, there will be a 16mm vandal on/off switch to power the front fans. The top fan will cool the single hard-drive that will be installed in the bottom optical drive bay. The slot-load tray that will be installed in the top optical drive bay will house the slot-load dvd drive and while installed, up to (*4*) SSD's can be installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything on the front bezel was removed (_2nd optical bay cover will be removed later_) and then I had to cut out the plastic grill since it's originally part of the bezel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1st mock-up evaluation. I had temporarily installed the slot-load tray and attached the bezel on the case so I can take the necessary dimensions. I had used the dimensions to draft out an electronic sketch for an acrylic laser cutting company to fabricate the acrylic face-plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/4" thick, black acrylic (_opaque_) face-plate was delivered with the cut pieces in place just as it appears in the image. All the openings were cut perfectly, based on the sketch I had provided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 2nd mock-up evaluation. All openings are perfectly cut and placed. As stated earlier, there will be a 16mm vandel on/off switch centered between the turbine fans. It will also power the fans. Underneath the bezel you can clearly see that I need to do some more cutting so the (*2*) turbine fans can be used appropriately.
> *I'll be back with more updates*





Wow Nice Good work


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Haha yeah I'm sure it ain't a problem, I just prefer to have my setup somewhat clean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how will you run the hoses though? The new front looks great btw, will uou be painting the turbines to match the panel?


Trust me...it will be clean







I do have a plan for running the hose (_don't want to reveal the secret yet_







) *but* I'm also modding the side panel so I can have the option to use large heatsinks like the DH-14. I'm still debating which route I want to go with cooling the cpu. As far as painting, I'm considering letting my buddy powder-coat the entire case including the turbines...not 100% sure with the color. I might create a thread in the requesting some help with the color.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Wow Nice Good work
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## Ramsey77

Very Nice DrBlahMan. Can't wait to see the finished project. I got my popcorn ready for the unveiling.

Anyways, an update of my case: The polished ring never grew on me, and I realized that it goes against the grain of having a stealthy looking case (what I think of as a "Fractal" type case)......so I painted it black. I really like the look of the front now. It fits more with the style of the case.


















Better right?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Are there any builds with modded core 1000? I want to make this a server case so I would like to see possible mods


I've got one in my sig, Project Maple Leaf, and *golfergolfer* has a good one as well: golfergolfer's First Water Cooled Core 1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> *CORE 1000 FRONT BEZEL DUAL 120MM TURBINE MOD IN PROGRESS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is basically the conceptual idea for this Core 1000 front bezel mod project. The stock appearance will be totally transformed. There will be (*2*) turbine fans and for a stealth-look, the top optical bay will be a slot-load dvd. There will be a laser-cut, 1/4" thick black acrylic (opaque) for the face-plate that will be attached to the front bezel. In between the turbine fans, there will be a 16mm vandal on/off switch to power the front fans. The top fan will cool the single hard-drive that will be installed in the bottom optical drive bay. The slot-load tray that will be installed in the top optical drive bay will house the slot-load dvd drive and while installed, up to (*4*) SSD's can be installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Everything on the front bezel was removed (_2nd optical bay cover will be removed later_) and then I had to cut out the plastic grill since it's originally part of the bezel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 1st mock-up evaluation. I had temporarily installed the slot-load tray and attached the bezel on the case so I can take the necessary dimensions. I had used the dimensions to draft out an electronic sketch for an acrylic laser cutting company to fabricate the acrylic face-plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/4" thick, black acrylic (_opaque_) face-plate was delivered with the cut pieces in place just as it appears in the image. All the openings were cut perfectly, based on the sketch I had provided.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the 2nd mock-up evaluation. All openings are perfectly cut and placed. As stated earlier, there will be a 16mm vandel on/off switch centered between the turbine fans. It will also power the fans. Underneath the bezel you can clearly see that I need to do some more cutting so the (*2*) turbine fans can be used appropriately.
> 
> 
> 
> *I'll be back with more updates*


Awesome work man, looks amazing


----------



## johnko1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I've got one in my sig, Project Maple Leaf, and *golfergolfer* has a good one as well: golfergolfer's First Water Cooled Core 1000


Thanks









I want to make this case a mini server/nas and I want to see the possible hdd mounting options...


----------



## DJKAY

Finally painted the mesh of my Arc Midi



I really like the look of the mesh from near.



Also painted my gtx 570 to go with the same color scheme



While testing!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
















I´m really happy with the results


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Has anyone changed the feet on a Midi? I'm worried because the rear feet are smaller because of the fan filter rail.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnko1*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make this case a mini server/nas and I want to see the possible hdd mounting options...


How many HDD's will you be using? A mate of mine just drilled a few holes to the bottom of the case and stacked 5.25" to 3.5" cages on top of each other. You should have just enough room to fit 2 of these (for example) and still have a 5.25" bay in case you need one.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Very Nice DrBlahMan. Can't wait to see the finished project. I got my popcorn ready for the unveiling.


Thanks







.....I can't wait to see it finished also








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Better right?


Regarding your case I like either silver or black but if you prefer the stealth look, black is always better









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Awesome work man, looks amazing


Thanks







.....I'll be posting updates, hopefully on a weekly basis (_depending on the work schedule_







)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Finally painted the mesh of my Arc Midi...I´m really happy with the results


Looks







.....Are you using a see-thru side panel*?* If so, have you considered using white fans on the cpu cooler to extend the black & white theme*?*


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Very Nice DrBlahMan. Can't wait to see the finished project. I got my popcorn ready for the unveiling.
> Anyways, an update of my case: The polished ring never grew on me, and I realized that it goes against the grain of having a stealthy looking case (what I think of as a "Fractal" type case)......so I painted it black. I really like the look of the front now. It fits more with the style of the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better right?


muchas bettero..
still contimplating the white blades?

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Finally painted the mesh of my Arc Midi
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the look of the mesh from near.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also painted my gtx 570 to go with the same color scheme
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While testing!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I´m really happy with the results


very, very nice...

airdeano


----------



## doyll

Has anyone managed to put 140mm fans in front of R2/R3


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .....Are you using a see-thru side panel*?* If so, have you considered using white fans on the cpu cooler to extend the black & white theme*?*


I´m using no sidepanel in the Moment...









And I´ve thought on changing the fans on the cpu cooler but as a Student my budget is quite low :/
Also I don´t know any white fans, which could beat the Silent wings... And I don´t think it is worth the investement to go with the AF series with white rings. Because the color difference is not that extreme.
Any suggestions?


----------



## ekg84

Just to let you guys know the Core 3000 is on sale right now on the EGG fro $40 shipped

LINK

Dont forget to use promo code FRACT830, ends 9/9


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> very, very nice...
> airdeano


Thanks mate.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Just to let you guys know the Core 3000 is on sale right now on the EGG fro $40 shipped
> LINK
> Dont forget to use promo code FRACT830, ends 9/9


Yessir







Own my way to MicroCenter for a price-match deal & pick up one so I can do a similar mod like my Core 1000


----------



## Tritanium

A warning for anyone with an R4: be careful with the front door fans I opened mine when it was running and it fell and broke both my fans


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tritanium*
> 
> A warning for anyone with an R4: be careful with the front door fans I opened mine when it was running and it fell and broke both my fans


A warning for anyone with butterfingers: don't drop your fans while they're spinning at 1,000+ RPM









It happens though.


----------



## Ramsey77

If you are careful with some super glue, they are fixable. I have done it a few times with no ill effects. Just let them sit for a day before throwing them back in service.

Edit: OR you could just send them to me, instead of tossing them out.


----------



## rebelextrm02

I would like to join the club! I just got my Fractal Designs Arc Mini from NCIX today. I got it for $70 with free shipping durring their warehouse sale. I took a quick pic of it next to my old CM 590 and my girlfriends new CM 690 II Advanced.


----------



## corysti

Well within two weeks of owning my r4 I currently have been on the search to make it look better inside and cool better. I just purchased my parts to make this switch to watercooling and I have a few questions. Does anyone know if I could fit two TFC - Triebwerk fans in the front some how? I know from the factory the 140x25mm fans just snap into the housing and no screws are needed but I couldn't tell if they provide holes for the 120 mm fans. I know these fans are great for watercooling but they are quite thick so I may have to get rid of the hard drive bay all together. Or does anyone have another affordable option for fans?


----------



## airdeano

hey corysti,
im in nlr... welcome to the forum.

the cassette that holds the fans does not have 120 mounting options. you can make
your own, but id use a 140 for the more air, better pressure and less noise.

what all hardware you jammin into the R4?

airdeano


----------



## ad3ath

Some new pics of my Arc, need's some work but I'm happy to be on Ivy platform now. Surprised how easy it is to over clock compared to LGA775. Straight to 4.2 with stock VID, runs about 8c hotter than my Q6600 though.




I want to spray my 7970 plastics white or black, also want to maybe some ram with LED's on from crucial and await the side window release.
Also wish my PSU didn't have these horrible flat cables, they are so hard to use.


----------



## Hellish

Has anyone fit a Rampage IV Extreme in the arc midi before?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellish*
> 
> Has anyone fit a Rampage IV Extreme in the arc midi before?


ive asked and no reply,
but by ATX the RIVE is .500" wider, so the grommets will be slightly covered more
but it should fit with little or no issues.

airdeano


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Also wish my PSU didn't have these horrible flat cables, they are so hard to use.


I agree with you about the flat cables. My PC Power & Cooling PSU uses them too. Mine are at least black.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> I agree with you about the flat cables. My PC Power & Cooling PSU uses them too. Mine are at least black.


Just not flexible enough, and too long for midi cases. I would get bitfenix extentions but they just wouldn't fit with these cables too. Will probably get a corsair psu with the nice braided cables. This PSU I have also has two very pointless cables, both with a molex and fan connector, of which neither provide enough power to spin a fan at full RPM or even power a fan controller, fail whoever's idea that was.

I do like how I've supported my 7970's weight with some thin cable ties though, the droop was bothering me, this fixed it for free!


----------



## yayat

Here is my Fractal Design R4


----------



## bortoloj

Look awesome !


----------



## falcon26

How does the R4 compare to the Corsair 550D


----------



## LolCakeLazors

I'm thinking of switching my Storm Scout into the Midi along with my Rasa Kit. Any suggestions on reservoirs? I need 2 bay drives for my CD drive and my Rasa Res takes up 2 as well leaving me with 1 bay drive space that I don't have in the Midi. Would you recommend a single bay drive res or a non-bay drive one? Personally, the bay drive reservoirs look so much better than a block of water inside and exposed.


----------



## Vash101

You could pick up a couple 5.25 usb 3 enclosures for your cd drives. New Egg has them for about $27.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> I'm thinking of switching my Storm Scout into the Midi along with my Rasa Kit. Any suggestions on reservoirs? I need 2 bay drives for my CD drive and my Rasa Res takes up 2 as well leaving me with 1 bay drive space that I don't have in the Midi. Would you recommend a single bay drive res or a non-bay drive one? Personally, the bay drive reservoirs look so much better than a block of water inside and exposed.


Get rid of the optical drive. Obsolete technology.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Get rid of the optical drive. Obsolete technology.


Not an option in my house.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Not an option in my house.


Tell me about it


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> I'm thinking of switching my Storm Scout into the Midi along with my Rasa Kit. Any suggestions on reservoirs? I need 2 bay drives for my CD drive and my Rasa Res takes up 2 as well leaving me with 1 bay drive space that I don't have in the Midi. Would you recommend a single bay drive res or a non-bay drive one? Personally, the bay drive reservoirs look so much better than a block of water inside and exposed.


Costs more but why not eBay your optical drives and just get an external optical drive? Surely you only need 1. I removed mine, only plug it in when I need to, it sits on the 3.5 cages when I install it, and the cables are always ready. If I had an external it would be gone.

External ones usually look better anyhow.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

I might actually consider doing that. Thanks.


----------



## lurker2501

Hey, guys, has anyone tried to get a spare I/O panel from fractal design? Someone in this thread posted a while back that they sent him one.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Hey, guys, has anyone tried to get a spare I/O panel from fractal design? Someone in this thread posted a while back that they sent him one.


Yeah they sent me a replacement I/O panel for my Midi a few months ago. Took about 2 weeks to get here.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> I might actually consider doing that. Thanks.


It's what people did when floppy started to become ancient isn't it. ^^ Is the age of digital downloads now. I want to put windows on a usb, never tried it probably really easy.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Windows from usb is a lot more convenient and faster. Been doing it for a while now. I've got mine on a 8gb stick with all my latest motherboard drivers, graphics drivers etc.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Windows from usb is a lot more convenient and faster. Been doing it for a while now. I've got mine on a 8gb stick with all my latest motherboard drivers, graphics drivers etc.


That's how I do it these days. M$ has put out a USB tool just for this purpose and it's easy to use as 1-2-3. Seriously, no need for optical, optical is so hmm 2003?


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How does the R4 compare to the Corsair 550D


The 550D has about half the amount of foam thickness of the R4 on the door. The R4 uses a sound dampening material and not foam except on the door. Which unlike the 550D has a place behind the door for your fingers and not stiff to open. Before I decided on a case I went to Micro Center so I could check out the R3 and 550D side-by-side. MC does not have the R4 in stock yet. The R4 has made some improvements like the ability to remove one or both drive cages more back panel room. If you can see the 550D in person I think it may be a good thing to do before paying $30 more for it. I am really liking the the built in three-setting fan controller, PSU dust filter, ease to get to front panel fans and filter, and the top panel power button and connectors on the top. I keep it below my desk so the USB ports are placed in a more convenient spot. Like the R3, one can choose Arctic White, Black Pearl or Titanium Grey. I chose the latter. I like choices.

This is from the Corsair forum:
- Front door hinges/locks are ridiculously weak. A plastic pin.
- Front placeholders for 5 25 bays: cheap plastic that would fit a cheap chinese case from 5 years ago, not a Corsair product from 2012
- The case itself doesn't feel that strong in the metal parts, like the side panels
- Plastic side panels that pop-off with a light touch and really feel light and weak
- PSU mount holes doesn't fit a Seasonic SS-760KM, only 3 mount holes fit the PSU at any orientation
- cheap plastic piece covering the case, feels really light and weak, like that type of plastic that cracks after some time under direct light
http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=108644


----------



## goldbranch

Does anyone know if Fractal Design would release a window side panel for the Arc Mini anytime soon?


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Fractal Design would release a window side panel for the Arc Mini anytime soon?





Wow now that is nice, Not sure When they May bring a windowed Version Out But you deffinateley need a window to show that Off


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That's how I do it these days. M$ has put out a USB tool just for this purpose and it's easy to use as 1-2-3.


That's much easier than what I was going to do. Thanks! Time to get a Patriot USB 3.0 32GB drive. xD


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Fractal Design would release a window side panel for the Arc Mini anytime soon?


Looking good! What fan controller is that?


----------



## goldbranch

It's Lamptron FC6.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch*
> 
> It's Lamptron FC6.


I've got the FC5V2.....awesome controllers aren't they? Loving mine.


----------



## falcon26

Is the power LED on the black r4 still blue?


----------



## bortoloj

Yes


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldbranch*
> 
> It's Lamptron FC6.


Looks like another 50$ I'm going to have to spend.

EDIT: Any thoughts on the BitFenix Recon 5? Cheaper, 5 channels, and touchscreen.


----------



## Markus

Raaaawr! Fractal Design, release the freaking sidepanel already







I cba modding my own sidepanel and messing it up








Apparently it will (hopefully) be available in the end of October. Too far away


----------



## yogzzz

Just finished my arc mini


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yogzzz*
> 
> Just finished my arc mini
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to the club








This looks very good and clean.
I also like your cables. Are these the Bitfenix or the NZXT ones?
BTW your CPU headsink looks godlike. Which one is it?


----------



## yogzzz

hi,








i've sleeved the cables with mdpc sleeve. The CPU Cooler is a Zalman 9700 LED.


----------



## catbuster

Almost ordered r3 today. But now I am torn between r3 and r4. Is it worth to get r4 cuz its cost more and dont know if 140 fans are really better. Ofc i am looking for a silent build


----------



## SLADEizGOD

Add me..


----------



## MoInSTL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Almost ordered r3 today. But now I am torn between r3 and r4. Is it worth to get r4 cuz its cost more and dont know if 140 fans are really better. Ofc i am looking for a silent build


There are a lot of improved features in the R4. You need to compare them. How much difference in the price?


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoInSTL*
> 
> There are a lot of improved features in the R4. You need to compare them. How much difference in the price?


um i converted local prices in dollars

r3 109$ vs r4 145$

yeah damn europe prices


----------



## airdeano

R4 has better case cooling, can be ordered with window, and todays technology
not 3-4 years ago (not a rip to r2/r3 owners). buy a R3 and you'll spend the
difference in fans, immediately... the R4 you can use what came with it for now.

airdeano


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> um i converted local prices in dollars
> r3 109$ vs r4 145$
> yeah damn europe prices


That's surprising. And I was thinking my country is the only place selling it as high as that (150$).

What I decided to do, is make a group purchase in a local forum and it helped reduce the price to ~130$.


----------



## Vuashke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> um i converted local prices in dollars
> r3 109$ vs r4 145$
> yeah damn europe prices


its ~160 bucks here in australia too. its not just europe prices, its non-NA prices









is it just me, or does the front panel on the r4 look alot better than the r3? that's only improvement that'd be relevant to me anyway


----------



## AbdullahG

Looks like the same flat, plain surface to me. Maybe in material and construction yes, but I can't tell the difference. The side panel window (unless only specific models of the R4 have one) could enhance the look of the overall case, front panel included.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Almost ordered r3 today. But now I am torn between r3 and r4. Is it worth to get r4 cuz its cost more and dont know if 140 fans are really better. Ofc i am looking for a silent build


Reasons for R4 vs R3
2x 140mm fans will move about the same air at same noise as 3x 120 fans
All vents accept 140mm fans (R3 back and front are 120mm)
4 instead of 2 USB sockets
More clearance for cooler. (new cooler are getting bigger all the time)
5 bay HDD rack removal. (R3 is fixed rack)
Slide out filter on bottom for both PSU and bottom fan (R3 is only PSU and have to turn case on side to clean bottom fan filter.
More room for cable management.

I have old R2 and love it but would get R4 titanium if I was buying new.
Maybe look around for a used R2/R3. I got mine for £35 delivered and see them on forums for £50-60.


----------



## Egameman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!













new pump ,pump top and res


----------



## corysti

Im with Doyll on the R4...Even though the R3 and R4 look the same the features of the r4 is totally worth the price. I've had mine around 3 weeks now and it has to be the best case i've owned and its also have been the cheapest case I've purchased.









Watercooling parts will be here tomorrow but I won't be able to start until this weekend. I'll take pictures if anyone is interested in seeing how it looks.


----------



## K4IKEN

I'm interested!!

Seriously considering picking up the R4 over the midi because of the window, I know that you can buy an additional window panel soon, but in the end that would drive up the price of the upgrade. Heard the R4 was built like a tank too.


----------



## corysti

It's a pretty solid case especially for the price.


----------



## Hellish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Another update of my Fractal R4 Build. Again, sorry for the terrible quality picture. Finally picked up an H100 which fits perfectly in the front fan mount. Will eventually clean things up and post some real pictures but just wanted to show the fit of the H100


Would the H100 have fit about the MVF?


----------



## ad3ath

I get a chill everytime I walk past my Arc lol. Cannot wait for the side window!! I have the panels switched around at the moment. Still loads of room after my D14 installed, wonder if somewhere will make an even taller heatsink.


----------



## doyll

Both Arc and R4 are good. R4 is quieter. Keep in mind if you need more air moving you can open the front door and even the grill if needed. When I was running NH-U12P and CPU was hitting 70c opening the front would lower temps by 3c.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellish*
> 
> Would the H100 have fit about the MVF?


Yes it will, you just need to offset it using the fan cutouts rather than the actual screw holes. Piece of cake.

I love my R4 so much. If anyone is on the fence about it, or going back and forth between R3 and R4, R4 is worth every penny. The cable management alone is worth it but there are a few other features (like the voltage selector for fans!) that really make the product stand out.


----------



## doyll

R4 is 24.6mm wider than R2/3.. more room for cable management and more cpu clearance.


----------



## Michalius

Yeah, it's really significant. I did some builds for other in the R3 and I was never really a fan of it due to how much of a PITA the cable management was. R4 fixes that.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Hopefully going to be building my friend a rig using the R4. Not going to be anything special component wise but if I like the case I might get rid of my Midi and get one.


----------



## K4IKEN

Pulling the trigger on the R4 today. Hopefully I'll have it by Saturday, but most likely it'll be in next week. I'll post plenty of pictures when I get it.


----------



## MoInSTL

I've had my R4 for about a month and love it so far. It is very quiet. The only thing I do not like is with my motherboard at least, the 12v 8-pin connector at the top corner made it a little difficult to plug both 4-pin connectors in as there was not much clearance. My PSU had a really long molex chain and I picked up a SATA to molex adapter for $3 to eliminate that cable for the molex fan controller. I use the same cable for the DVD burner. I also removed both drive bays. I got the Titanium Grey.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Hopefully going to be building my friend a rig using the R4. Not going to be anything special component wise but if I like the case I might get rid of my Midi and get one.


Blasphemy, the Midi is perfection! Still eager for the side window release.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Blasphemy, the Midi is perfection! Still eager for the side window release.


I know. I'm sorry. I might just wait until the window panel comes out and get that. I love my Midi but the R4 is also really nice.


----------



## K4IKEN

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=109

The wait is over, well almost.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=109
> The wait is over, well almost


yeah, thats been since 08/23/2012. no etailer has entered the part number for a search yet as well.. release
was slated septemberish/october.. no telling..

i gotta get one of my panels trimmed and to the powder coater

airdeano


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Still need an idea for WC'ing the Arc Midi. I could get a FrozenQ Bay Reservoir but then I would have no slots for a fan controller.

Any suggestions?


----------



## adi518

I might be getting the R4 as soon as next week but I'm having hard time picking a color. I originally wanted to replace my current black R3 with a Titanium R4 but Titanium was only recently put on order by the dealer so it won't be in stock for quite some time. That leaves me with either black or white.

What say you?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Hopefully going to be building my friend a rig using the R4. Not going to be anything special component wise but if I like the case I might get rid of my Midi and get one.


Please let us know how R4 compares to your Midi... cable management, noise, etc.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Yeah, it's really significant. I did some builds for other in the R3 and I was never really a fan of it due to how much of a PITA the cable management was. R4 fixes that.


Really? I found R2 has JUST enough room for cable management. Had to be careful but definitely wasn't a PITA.









Cooler clearance could be a real PITA... Phanteks JUST fits.. Literally 1-2mm clearance with fans and maybe 4-5mm on cooler itself.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Yeah, it's really significant. I did some builds for other in the R3 and I was never really a fan of it due to how much of a PITA the cable management was. R4 fixes that.


It's not PITA but it ain't easy if you don't use sleeved cables.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Please let us know how R4 compares to your Midi... cable management, noise, etc.


Yeah I'll let ya know. Convinced my friend to get better components so it should be a pretty decent build now. 3570K, MSI Z77A-G43, 8GB Vengeance LP Blue, AX650, 256GB Samsung 830, 3TB Barracuda, Fractal R4 Black and his GTX295. Trying to convince him to buy a newer graphics card but he doesn't game that much.


----------



## airdeano

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yeah I'll let ya know. Convinced my friend to get better components so it should be a pretty decent build now. 3570K, MSI Z77A-G43, 8GB Vengeance LP Blue, AX650, 256GB Samsung 830, 3TB Barracuda, Fractal R4 Black and his GTX295. Trying to convince him to buy a newer graphics card but he doesn't game that much.






yeah, that'll test the air flow of the case with the GPU card.

airdeano


----------



## K4IKEN

Well my R4 has shipqd and I can't wait to get it. Will get here Tuesday at the latest. This is definitely going to be the nicest case I've owned and will easily beat my beta evo. I was really considering the midi but the price difference on newegg was just too much for me. Looking forward to some WC'd R4s


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rovert19*
> 
> Hi there, I have a define r3 and was wondering where in Canada can I get the windowed side panel. I've tried looking everywhere and cannot find any retailers that carry them. I tried contacting fractal numerous times but I never get a reply. Thanks!


I have the same question/scenario. I don't think it's just Canada, I can't seem to find a store that carries these panels anywhere (granted, I'm only searching in English). I too have tried contacting Fractal Designs at their email for support, but have not received a reply.


----------



## rovert19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> I have the same question/scenario. I don't think it's just Canada, I can't seem to find a store that carries these panels anywhere (granted, I'm only searching in English). I too have tried contacting Fractal Designs at their email for support, but have not received a reply.


Hi, I was able to get one of these by requesting a special order through a retailer. However, it will be significantly more expensive than the $20 ERSP because of shipping. Mine came to $41. Good luck!


----------



## mitchy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaneda13*
> 
> Oh, and the all important before and after:
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:


probably a long shot... but what temperature monitoring program is that? i like it!


----------



## MoInSTL

BitFenix unveils new chassis dubbed Ghost, offers 'superb silence'

Looks a lot like a Fractal R4. Water cooling ready. Looks interesting.

http://www.tweaktown.com/news/25708/...nce/index.html

Pricing and Availability
BitFenix Ghost carries an MSRP of 89€ in the EU, $99 in North America, and will be available on store shelves at the end of September.
http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/ne...unveils-ghost/


----------



## ad3ath

I don't like the look or design of the bitfenix, and don't think you can compare it to the R4.


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> I don't like the look or design of the bitfenix, and don't think you can compare it to the R4.


Well it's a competitor to the R4 if I'm not mistaken.


----------



## ad3ath

Fair enough. I just prefer the hard drive cages in the R4. Also think the finish on the Bitfenix looks really cheap, and uses 120mm fans instead of 140.

edit:

230mm up top is a nice feature, but no dual 140mm intake, just 1 140 or 2x120. Rear exhaust is a 120 too.

Also, while I think the SDD hard drive cage is a good idea, it doesn't appear to come with another normal sized one so limits user to 4x3.5" drives...bit stupid imo.


----------



## Borarah

Hey guys. I'm planning a new build with the Arc Midi and was planning to route 7/16 tubing behind the mobo tray (will be using a MO-RA3). Would there be enough clearance to do that without putting pressure on tubing.

Here's a pic to visualise what I want to potentially do.



http://imgur.com/HS7z5


----------



## chickennoodle

Joining the club


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chickennoodle*
> 
> Joining the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Core 1000 1.jpg 453k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Core 1000 2.jpg 376k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Core 1000 3.jpg 403k .jpg file


Nice rig. Looks really clean.


----------



## ad3ath

So clean







love it.


----------



## chickennoodle

Thanks!!! Took ages to get it that way! appreciate your comments!







:thumb:


----------



## jcamp6336

May be joining this awesome club in a few days but i need some input.

Ive been looking into getting a smaller case to house my gaming rig since i wont be watercooling or SLI any time soon and my lian li just takes up too much space. Also has tons of wasted space inside. Going to keep it though, cause i know i want to do a WC loop in the future at some point.

Anyway, im considering the Define r4 with window, but i cant decide on black or white.

I want something that these 2 things will look good in, as they are the centerpieces of my build.

 

 

remember, thats a white PCB

What do you guys think?


----------



## adridu59

White, the blue Phanteks will look awesome in it...


----------



## mm67

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchy*
> 
> probably a long shot... but what temperature monitoring program is that? i like it!


It's this one : http://bjango.com/mac/istatmenus/


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> White, the blue Phanteks will look awesome in it...


Yeah i was leaning towards white too, always wanted a white case and this is one of, if not THE best looking one on the market i think.


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chickennoodle*
> 
> Joining the club





Wow Proper Nice Rig, Did you make the Side Panel Or did you buy it ?


----------



## adi518

why do so many people prefer black to white r4?


----------



## ad3ath

Just need to find a white motherboard now.


----------



## jcamp6336

that would be awesome


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

I'm pretty sure you could just but a white sheet of thin plastic and lay it over the motherboard so it's not touching the actual board but it simply covers it up, if you find the right color it would technically look like you don't ever have a board! The trick I think is getting it far enough off the board to leave it some airflow but low enough that it's not noticeable


----------



## Nuzart

I'd just like to state... HURRY UP Node 304!


----------



## SirWooties

Whats the best air cooler that would fit in the design 1000 case? I am building a nice and compact core i3 ivy bridge build for my sister.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> Whats the best air cooler that would fit in the design 1000 case? I am building a nice and compact core i3 ivy bridge build for my sister.


For an i3 cpu, you don't need the best.

You'll be okay using the stock Intel cooler *but* if you really prefer to buy a cooler I suggest not to spend so much & buy the *COOLER MASTER GeminII S524* .


----------



## macarule




----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*


What the hell??
Thumps up man!!









Greta Job!!


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macarule*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


***, cooking a burger atm, rather eat your pc. Nice!


----------



## blue-cat

Hey that loop set up looks sweet!
Would macarule's set up work in a n R4? Like is the internal room similar enough. Anyone got a dual rad up top for gfx and cpu? Is there space for push pull or just push?

(Planning on shifting into a R4 in a few months after I work out how to fit my 240, pump and res without removing any of the HDD cages. and whether I need an extra 120)


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Hey that loop set up looks sweet!
> Would macarule's set up work in a n R4? Like is the internal room similar enough. Anyone got a dual rad up top for gfx and cpu? Is there space for push pull or just push?
> (Planning on shifting into a R4 in a few months after I work out how to fit my 240, pump and res without removing any of the HDD cages. and whether I need an extra 120)


As suggested by some reviews and FD themselves, it may work depending on your motherboard and how much clearance there is between it's heatsinks and the radiator mount. They should have made it the same as Arc but unfortunately they did not, for reasons unknown. :\


----------



## K4IKEN

Looks like the only way to mount a dual 120/140mm rad comfortably in this case is to remove the HDD cages. My R4 is scheduled to come in tomorrow and I'm a long way from wanting to WC but I plan on removing those cages anyway to help airflow. When I do decide to WC I'm probably going to follow the guide to install a 280mm rad in the front found here.


----------



## DJKAY

Hey Guys!
See what came in for a client build:



BTW: It´s going to go into a client silent rig with a define mini.
I´m sorry my client doesn´t want that I upload a pictures of his rig cause his real name is painted inside.....
But what I can say it looks just.. BIG!

And I just found some pics of the good [email protected] times
Here is the one I like most (sorry no case just a benche)



I know it´s


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

If I decide to get an R4 after building my friends I think I'm going to take the roof panel from the Midi and the R4 and merge them together so it has the offset fan position of the Midi. Then I'll spray the whole case a new colour. Sound good?


----------



## K4IKEN

Sounds good, and I hope I actually get to see that.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

It should be pretty simple to do. I'm thinking that I'll cut the roof of the midi like this:



then cut the R4 like this



weld it in place, grind it smooth, prime and then paint it.


----------



## blue-cat

would it not be easier to just drill new mounting holes, and ventilation holes. you could even just cut it out and screw a coverplate over. that way you could sell your arc midi on for a decent price


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> would it not be easier to just drill new mounting holes, and ventilation holes. you could even just cut it out and screw a coverplate over. that way you could sell your arc midi on for a decent price


Yeah suppose I could BUT that would be too easy









I'll have a hard think about what I'll be doing when I have built my friends rig and decided if I like the R4 more than the Midi.


----------



## Borarah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm planning a new build with the Arc Midi and was planning to route 7/16 tubing behind the mobo tray (will be using a MO-RA3). Would there be enough clearance to do that without putting pressure on tubing.
> Here's a pic to visualise what I want to potentially do.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/HS7z5


Bump any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> any input would be greatly appreciated


itll be quite thin between the motherboard and rear chassis for a pass-through. even a bulkhead
fitting would be a tight fit in that location. the motherboard tray has a flange that rivets to the rear
chassis; which will leave a .550" or .730" modifying the motherboard tray. it is doable, you'll have
to disass the rear chassis panel to modify, but the motherboard tray will be the deal-breaker if
tubing exits behind.. best option would be the 8th PCI slot, OE cooling holes, or next to the PSU
in that area.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yeah suppose I could BUT that would be too easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have a hard think about what I'll be doing when I have built my friends rig and decided if I like the R4 more than the Midi.


VD88,
if hes not gunna make it hardcore, use the R4 (less PITA). if he has any tendency to make
a beastly cooler, use the midi. the R4 door is nioce.. but from a strict performance level,
he'll for sake the door for high speed, high static LOUD fans, kinda defeats the reason for
the door. take the door off and ya gotta midi.. a doorless R4 is not a pretty sight look at 24/7,
but a midi can look really noice...

airdeano


----------



## Borarah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> itll be quite thin between the motherboard and rear chassis for a pass-through. even a bulkhead
> fitting would be a tight fit in that location. the motherboard tray has a flange that rivets to the rear
> chassis; which will leave a .550" or .730" modifying the motherboard tray. it is doable, you'll have
> to disass the rear chassis panel to modify, but the motherboard tray will be the deal-breaker if
> tubing exits behind.. best option would be the 8th PCI slot, OE cooling holes, or next to the PSU
> in that area.
> airdeano


mmm yeah looks like it would be a tight fit. Reason being, I wanted to route the tubes in line with the sleeving. If It's too tight i was thinking just routing it to the back of the motherboard tray where the grommets are and run it down into the bottom half of the case, keeping it nice and clean and having it come out through the pci - slots which would be covered up with the acrylic. FYI, I would be using 7/16 tubing, but if I can get away with that, I might use thinner tubing just for that part so I can route it out the back.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

If anyone else has been wondering about the status of the R3 window panels, I finally received a reply to my email.
Quote:


> Hi XXXX,
> 
> Extremely sorry for the delay. The windowed panel for the Define R3 should be available by the end of next month. Should you have any other questions or concerns, please don't hesitate to call or email.
> 
> Best Regards,
> XXXX
> 
> Sales & Technical Support
> Fractal Design North America
> Telephone: 855.446.3722
> Email: [email protected]
> Web: www.fractal-design.com
> Facebook: www.facebook.com/FractalDesignNA
> Twitter: @FractalDesignNA


----------



## Vuashke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> Bump any input would be greatly appreciated.


where'd you get the noiseblockers from?


----------



## macarule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> What the hell??
> Thumps up man!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greta Job!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> ***, cooking a burger atm, rather eat your pc. Nice!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Hey that loop set up looks sweet!
> Would macarule's set up work in a n R4? Like is the internal room similar enough. Anyone got a dual rad up top for gfx and cpu? Is there space for push pull or just push?
> (Planning on shifting into a R4 in a few months after I work out how to fit my 240, pump and res without removing any of the HDD cages. and whether I need an extra 120)


Thanks guys!


----------



## Jolting

If I were to mount a 280mm radiator in the top of the R4, would the screw holes lineup properly? I'm not willing to sacrifice my hard drive trays so I'm not going for the front, nor do I want to do a 240mm. I understand clearance will be an issue, but does anyone know the exact clearance as well? I think I may have a way around it, but I'm not sure yet.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> mmm yeah looks like it would be a tight fit. Reason being, I wanted to route the tubes in line with the sleeving. If It's too tight i was thinking just routing it to the back of the motherboard tray where the grommets are and run it down into the bottom half of the case, keeping it nice and clean and having it come out through the pci - slots which would be covered up with the acrylic. FYI, I would be using 7/16 tubing, but if I can get away with that, I might use thinner tubing just for that part so I can route it out the back.


ive got a midi drilled and de-rivetted and there is literally no room in that area without
major modifications. 7/16" hose is 5/8" (.625") OD. so you are .125" too big, add another
.09" for a clamp or hose bulge (7/16" hose on 1/2" barb). there isnt seriously any where
to put the connections behind the motherboard because of the PSU and motherboard
themselves.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolting*
> 
> If I were to mount a 280mm radiator in the top of the R4, would the screw holes lineup properly? I'm not willing to sacrifice my hard drive trays so I'm not going for the front, nor do I want to do a 240mm. I understand clearance will be an issue, but does anyone know the exact clearance as well? I think I may have a way around it, but I'm not sure yet.


depending on whos radiator (different fan spacing holes) will be the answer. not all of
them use a 15mm fan spacing. the next would be the distance from the roof to the first
hortizontal line of motherboard mounts. because the fan grill isnt offset, you now have
a different issue that the rad and single fan set still will interfere with the motherboard
RAM and MOSFET heatsinks. get that measurement and the fan hole spacing in the roof.

airdeano


----------



## Borarah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> ive got a midi drilled and de-rivetted and there is literally no room in that area without
> major modifications. 7/16" hose is 5/8" (.625") OD. so you are .125" too big, add another
> .09" for a clamp or hose bulge (7/16" hose on 1/2" barb). there isnt seriously any where
> to put the connections behind the motherboard because of the PSU and motherboard
> themselves.
> airdeano
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for the info mate. Looks like I'll have to change my plans a little then. I could use 3/8 but it wouldn't look that good considering it's in an ATX case.
Click to expand...


----------



## LolCakeLazors

I'm planning on adding an CoolStream XTX 240 to the top of the Midi with some AP-14s. Will it clear?


----------



## tonyjones

damn just found out my radeon 6990 wont fit inside a fractal r3 black pearl !


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyjones*
> 
> damn just found out my radeon 6990 wont fit inside a fractal r3 black pearl !


I recently got my R3 and although I haven't tried, I'm pretty sure the HDD cage is made so that it could be rotated 90 degrees.


----------



## tonyjones

hmm it doesn't look like it can rotate


----------



## Aiml3ss

Hi guys,

Random question: How do I mount a 240 radiator in the top of my R3 case? Do I need some sort of bracket? I can't get the holes to line-up on my black ice gt 240 rad.

I want to do something like this:



I realize that's not an R3


----------



## corysti

On my R4 I am removing both harddrive trays because im watercooling. Where is everyone else putting their harddrives in this situation? Btw can anyone give me an ideal length of screw to fit my fans and radiator on the case? 40mm?


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

I know that the r4 has HDD's similar to the arc midi. If you take out both drive cages then you can slip drives into the 5.25" bays if you're not using them. If you are using them and you only have 1 drive then try sticking it to the bottom of the 5.25" bays (where the top HDD cage attaches) with some velcro. If you have an SSD then velcro on the back of the mobo tray should work too. Excuse my crappy grammar and spelling if i screwed up I just finished typing a 400 word essay and it;'s late and yeah =)


----------



## K4IKEN

Finally got it all pieced together.. still need to work on some cable managing but this will do for now. Temps aren't too bad either. Currently at 29C, and all my temps rose about 3C during idle. About to test gaming temps now with some CS:GO and BF3.









So now the upgrade path looks like this: 7870 is coming in tomorrow and I may buy a new monitor, waiting for the Bitfenix led strips to come back in stock so i can order a white strip, ordering some Samsung ram soon, and looking for some new fans. The R2s are really quiet but they just don't move enough air for me. Any suggestions?





Wow.. the D40 just doesn't look as good as it used to.


----------



## Peanuts4

Are those the stock fans everyone is using those white ones? I am looking at picking up a Core 1000 I think it only comes with the 1 fan. How good are the fans my current case has a ton of yate loons which have been pretty decent and not too noisy. I really don't want a noisy fan so let me know if I should order a replacement.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> has a ton of yate loons which have been pretty decent and not too noisy.


Personally, I'd seriously consider using some yates..........or any good reputable Mfg. of Fans

The Fractal ones supplied in kit are just so-so at best.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aiml3ss*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Random question: How do I mount a 240 radiator in the top of my R3 case? Do I need some sort of bracket? I can't get the holes to line-up on my black ice gt 240 rad.
> I want to do something like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realize that's not an R3


ive answered this in your water cooling section.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> I'm planning on adding an CoolStream XTX 240 to the top of the Midi with some AP-14s. Will it clear?


yes, just fine..

airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyjones*
> 
> damn just found out my radeon 6990 wont fit inside a fractal r3 black pearl !


too bad, i'd sold you my acr midi HDD cages, but they wont fit.. time to get out a dremel or the checkbook..

airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> On my R4 I am removing both harddrive trays because im watercooling. Where is everyone else putting their harddrives in this situation? Btw can anyone give me an ideal length of screw to fit my fans and radiator on the case? 40mm?


either in the optibay or large ssd, remote HDD (USB/eSATA/network) or laptop drives..

airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Are those the stock fans everyone is using those white ones? I am looking at picking up a Core 1000 I think it only comes with the 1 fan. How good are the fans my current case has a ton of yate loons which have been pretty decent and not too noisy. I really don't want a noisy fan so let me know if I should order a replacement.


i use either the BGears 120 or the swiftech helix for front fans.. helps push air in past the HDD and get to the important stuff GPU/CPU.

airdeano


----------



## falcon26

I'm thinking about selling my Corsair 550D and getting the R4 Black with window. How much room is their behind the motherboard tray for cables on the R4? On the 550D their is a good inch or so and I love that.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I'm thinking about selling my Corsair 550D and getting the R4


At best , you'd be making a lateral move.

Your existing case is a good one. Can't see one benefit in swapping, other than the Name


----------



## Vuashke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I'm thinking about selling my Corsair 550D and getting the R4 Black with window. How much room is their behind the motherboard tray for cables on the R4? On the 550D their is a good inch or so and I love that.


25mm or something? i forget


----------



## corysti

Its 25mm of open space behind the motherboard...Just measured


----------



## falcon26

Cool Thanks. I am probably going to stick with my 550D for now....


----------



## Entropia

Just water cooled my R3, surprising with any modding







(well I drilled 1 hole, but that doesn't count). Removable HDD cage would have been nice so I could get more stuff in the case as there is not much room to move in there. However it was easy enough to mount the res and rad externally, which does ruin some of the case's prettiness









Gotta say I do love these cases!

Next step for me will be mounting a 140mm rad on the bottom fan mount with push pull as there's enough space for it and will help when I get a water cooled GPU.


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Hi All,

This is my complete R4, I have done a little bit of sneaky editing to hide the messy build area! let me know what you think!


----------



## ad3ath

So clean...really like that R4 good job. That power supply comes with those cables? Might have to get one to replace my annoying flat plasticy ones on my BeQuiet. I got those fans too, really great they are, love to get another for the floor intake, just using stock fan there atm.


----------



## K4IKEN

The finish on the R4 is amazing! I may just stick with my original fans for now to save some cash, next up are some sleeved extensions and that led strip.


----------



## Peanuts4

How do you guys think a Noctua 120mm Fan NF-P12-1300 would do for the intake on the Core 1000. I'm also considering a gentle typhoon which I am kinda so so on, the enermax magma which looks good especially for cleaning and the cheapest, or a cougar.

I really want a quiet fan without any sort of whine or noise at all. But I only plan on having the 2 fans, front one and a rear 92mm Noctua 1600 rpm, really want things to be quiet and cool.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAnticitizen1*
> 
> Hi All,
> This is my complete R4, I have done a little bit of sneaky editing to hide the messy build area! let me know what you think!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really like the look of your build!
Extreamly clean and just beauty








I would be really interested in a picture of your top.


----------



## adi518

I just recieved my R4.................. holy batman it's huge compare to the old R3!


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> The finish on the R4 is amazing! I may just stick with my original fans for now to save some cash, next up are some sleeved extensions and that led strip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Where did you get the side window?







lol. It's the same window as the Arc Midi I think, wondering how you got this for the R4.


----------



## YairKoren

sorry for bad quillty , i cutted down one of the hooks for the cable mangment and put one fan cable and front panel cables there so it will look better








got some blue and black cables too


----------



## adi518

Prepping the case for some cable management action. While doing this I noticed you can remove the upper rail of the middle cage. It's surprisingly screwed in! However the access is kinda hard...any ideas?









Edit: found a 90 deg Philips driver and managed to get it out, it wasn't tight.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> The finish on the R4 is amazing! I may just stick with my original fans for now to save some cash, next up are some sleeved extensions and that led strip.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the side window?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol. It's the same window as the Arc Midi I think, wondering how you got this for the R4.
Click to expand...

I bought the window version of the R4. I love it


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> The finish on the R4 is amazing! I may just stick with my original fans for now to save some cash, next up are some sleeved extensions and that led strip.


Nice going removing those rear PCI slot covers. More airflow out the back!









Has anyone here used the two SSD mounting options on the back of the motherboard tray?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Nice going removing those rear PCI slot covers. More airflow out the back!


Yessir! I want to buy a nice high-end air cooler and remove that back fan completely but can't justify the purchase because my H50 keeps it cool enough.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yessir! I want to buy a nice high-end air cooler and remove that back fan completely but can't justify the purchase because my H50 keeps it cool enough.


Get one when you need it.


----------



## jcamp6336

Joining the club















Awesome case, lives up to its expectations. The only thing is my HX850 is a little too big to push all the wires through the main routing hole, so the back panel was a tight fit. But it worked out. Stuck 2 AF 140s on the front intake, temps are great.

and if anyone can tell me why my power LED is red, that would be great


----------



## adi518

The white version of the case comes with a red led, the black/titanium comes with a blue one. That's a design feature since R2 afaik. I think you can change the power led, I haven't tried yet but I bet it's feasible. I actually want to change the blue to white on mine.


----------



## jcamp6336

Ahh that kinda sucks, was looking forward to a nice blue one. Maybe ill look into changing that


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Any ideas on how to change the power led colour? I can't get mind of the front panel and i've cracked it (not in sight) trying to remove it!


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> So clean...really like that R4 good job. That power supply comes with those cables? Might have to get one to replace my annoying flat plasticy ones on my BeQuiet. I got those fans too, really great they are, love to get another for the floor intake, just using stock fan there atm.


Thank you! there is a lot of room to hide excess cables behind the mobo tray! The PSU includes black cables but for the AX 650/750/850 you can purchase different colour modular cables to replace the originals.


----------



## draterrojam

This case looks so nice, I"m just worried that if I get it I won't have room for a sli later on :-/


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> This case looks so nice, I"m just worried that if I get it I won't have room for a sli later on :-/


On the R4?? You'll have no problems running SLI.


----------



## draterrojam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> On the R4?? You'll have no problems running SLI.


really? seems like I would be cutting it pretty close to the psu...how's the back for cable management?


----------



## adi518

I just got the r4 and I have the r3 also so I compared them... r4 is HUGE compare to r3. A LOT of room behind the tray for cable management. SLI won't be a problem at all. Search the web, it's full rig pictures with people running SLI.


----------



## adi518

Done sleeving the front panel of the r4, just fan controller left, but that'll have to wait for tomorrow.









I also decided to take care of the ugly usb 3 cable. I removed the cable casing (the black one) sleeved it and tomorrow I'll be soldering it to a new usb 3 connector. Found the pinout online.


















Crap quality, was taken with my iphone. :\


----------



## AbdullahG

Color please









My next "upgrade" is going to be sleeving the PSU, fan, and case cables. I just need to overcome my fear of voiding my PSU's warranty and or screwing up while sleeving.


----------



## adi518

Look here for the case log:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/rebuilding-of-system-in-the-define-r4/0_30

I'll update more tomorrow, hopefully.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Color please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next "upgrade" is going to be sleeving the PSU, fan, and case cables. I just need to overcome my fear of voiding my PSU's warranty and or screwing up while sleeving.


That's why it's best to get a fully modular supply and better yet, Seasonic or something.


----------



## AbdullahG

I knew I should have gone with that fully modular OCZ PSU...

Might as well give it a try.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> I knew I should have gone with that fully modular OCZ PSU...
> 
> Might as well give it a try.


Buy a 24 pin extension to practice on, before cracking that psu open. You'll be a pro in no time.

http://www.Newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12-530-009


----------



## AbdullahG

I'll practice on an old OEM PSU I have lying around.


----------



## Gchc

.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gchc*
> 
> hello. everyone!
> this is my rig,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for Crappy pics.


welcome to the OCN forum and Fractal Design Club..
thats a good start..

airdeano


----------



## trendy

I just ordered my Arc Mini for a new mATX build! Can't wait to see this thing, I'm super excited :-]

Does anyone know what the max radiator space is at the top? I'm on the edge between a 25mm radiator and a 38mm one.


----------



## adi518

Sleeved my r4 fan controller:










I think it turned out really nice.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> I just ordered my Arc Mini for a new mATX build! Can't wait to see this thing, I'm super excited :-]
> 
> Does anyone know what the max radiator space is at the top? I'm on the edge between a 25mm radiator and a 38mm one.


I think you'll be fine with either. Tall ram might be a problem though but I think tall ram is pointless anyway.


----------



## adi518

last pic for today...


----------



## trendy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I think you'll be fine with either. Tall ram might be a problem though but I think tall ram is pointless anyway.


Thanks man, I have Samsung's 30nm memory modules anyways, which are very short haha.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> Thanks man, I have Samsung's 30nm memory modules anyways, which are very short haha.


No worries. Yeah they're tiny.

Has anyone used DEMCiflex filters? I need a filter for my H100 but I want it to be one piece and the only one I've found is the DEMCiflex one.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Has anyone used DEMCiflex filters? I need a filter for my H100 but I want it to be one piece and the only one I've found is the DEMCiflex one.


They're very good. Lots of HAF-X owners have the DEMCiflex kit for it.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> They're very good. Lots of HAF-X owners have the DEMCiflex kit for it.


Thank you. I'll give them a try. Quite expensive but if they're awesome then it'll be worth it.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Thank you. I'll give them a try. Quite expensive but if they're awesome then it'll be worth it.


I think they are. Silverstone filters are good also.


----------



## blue-cat

has anyone thrown a Phanteks PH-TC14PE in an r4? It says the height is 171mm and appaz clearance in the R4 is 170mm









jcamp6336, looks like you didnt have a problem?


----------



## Blizlake

It should fit just fine, the heatsink is only 160mm and I think you could push the fans down a tad.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> has anyone thrown a Phanteks PH-TC14PE in an r4? It says the height is 171mm and appaz clearance in the R4 is 170mm


take a look 2 pages back in this thread







it fits


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> has anyone thrown a Phanteks PH-TC14PE in an r4? It says the height is 171mm and appaz clearance in the R4 is 170mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jcamp6336, looks like you didnt have a problem?


No problem at all, i could even move the fans out a little more if i wanted to.

Keep in mind i have the windowed version though. Not sure if the solid panel has less clearance due to the noise dampening foam. Looks like it would have less.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> No problem at all, i could even move the fans out a little more if i wanted to.
> Keep in mind i have the windowed version though. Not sure if the solid panel has less clearance due to the noise dampening foam. Looks like it would have less.


That's perfect as I was planning on the white window if it ever comes to the UK anywhere NEAR the quoted £79.99 or whatever it was. Thanks for the clarification


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> has anyone thrown a Phanteks PH-TC14PE in an r4? It says the height is 171mm and appaz clearance in the R4 is 170mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jcamp6336, looks like you didnt have a problem?


My avatar has one in it.. and it's an R2.


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Hey guys will I run into any problems front mounting an h100 in the define mini?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Hey guys will I run into any problems front mounting an h100 in the define mini?


depending on motherboard, prolly not..
the R4 is a longer case and it has pretty much got a work-around to fit.

see this link post #83

airdeano


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> depending on motherboard, prolly not..
> the R4 is a longer case and it has pretty much got a work-around to fit.
> see this link post #83
> airdeano


Fixed for ya.


----------



## airdeano

supa-dupa.. thanks!

well i got the side panel "cut-in" for the arc midi..
whadda ya thinks?


*from this lucid boring view..*






*..to this exciting view!*

im pleased.. no waiting. just a jigsaw, 36tpi blade, flat and rounded files dremel,
cut-off disk(s) (8 total) and a dremel grinding disk. 45minutes later done!

i left the PSU covered as well as the optibays for those that like them hidden. my
next one, i might rip straight up the optis (possibly dropping the optibays). got the
plexi, just to late to install.
basically a 2.25" boarder, 8" x 4" (length x height) PSU and 6.25" x 4.75" (length x height)
plexi will be 16" x 14" rectangle held in with 3M 410 DS tape.

airdeano


----------



## VHJC

Hey! Count me in, with this baby







Core 3000


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> depending on motherboard, prolly not..
> the R4 is a longer case and it has pretty much got a work-around to fit.
> see this link post #83
> airdeano


I want the R4 but I'm using a Maximus Gene and I can't stand all the space below the motherboard. I might just wait and see if they release a Mini version of the R4, thanks.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> I want the R4 but I'm using a Maximus Gene and I can't stand all the space below the motherboard. I might just wait and see if they release a Mini version of the R4, thanks.


may i ask about why the define? is it the door?

airdeano


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> may i ask about why the define? is it the door?
> airdeano


I've been asking myself that question too.. and you know what, I'm not sure. It's a combination of things I guess, the door, the padding, the look. I'm not sure, I know with the Arc Mini I'll get better airflow but I'm stuck on the Define mini.. I got a few weeks to make up my mind before I purchase a case. I'm really just trying to narrow it down, if only I could get the benefits of both cases.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just read an article in Custom PC magazine and they've built a rig using an R4, Maximus V Gene and a H100 in the roof. Looks really nice. Making my decision easier.


----------



## caffeinescandal

I got my R4 a few days ago, a huge upgrade from my $60 dollar Lian-Li case i think. Loving the case so far. I have two Gentle Typhoons as exhaust on the top, two Gentle Typhoons as intake for the front, and a Phanteks fan as exhaust at the back. Still a work in progress, probably going to end up replacing the Phanteks with a Gentle Typhoon.

Anyway, I have a question for other R4 owners. Is there a way to turn the bottom hard drive cage so it's not facing the side panel? I want to turn it to improve my airflow. I have attached a picture of how I currently have it setup.





Sorry for the cellphone pic. It's the only thing I had atm.


----------



## draterrojam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> supa-dupa.. thanks!
> well i got the side panel "cut-in" for the arc midi..
> whadda ya thinks?
> 
> *from this lucid boring view..*
> 
> 
> 
> *..to this exciting view!*
> im pleased.. no waiting. just a jigsaw, 36tpi blade, flat and rounded files dremel,
> cut-off disk(s) (8 total) and a dremel grinding disk. 45minutes later done!
> i left the PSU covered as well as the optibays for those that like them hidden. my
> next one, i might rip straight up the optis (possibly dropping the optibays). got the
> plexi, just to late to install.
> basically a 2.25" boarder, 8" x 4" (length x height) PSU and 6.25" x 4.75" (length x height)
> plexi will be 16" x 14" rectangle held in with 3M 410 DS tape.
> airdeano


I think I'd like to have your side panel please...looks very good man.


----------



## AbdullahG

Anyone know any coolers that work like the Cooler Master GeminII and are under 165mm? I'd like something that isn't Cooler Master only because the name bothers the hell out of me.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Anyone know any coolers that work like the Cooler Master GeminII and are under 165mm? I'd like something that isn't Cooler Master only because the name bothers the hell out of me.


You want a down-flow flat cooler like the Geminii that is less than 165mm tall? Or do you want a cooler that will cool as good or better than GeminII that will fit in a 165mm case?

I have a Phanteks PH-TC14PE shoehorned into my R2. Need very short RAM for 140mm fan to fit on top of.







I'm running it vertical venting out top. Was just clearing cover while setting on NB heatsink cover. Ended up removing the NB cover so it would cool. (dropped temp from 75-80c to 48-53c) so have a little more clearance. Alpenfohn K2 fits nicely.

My shortlist of contenders

Cooler size comparison
K2 . = . 140x128x158mm 146x154x160mm w/fans (WxDxH looking from front of case)
D14 = . 140x130x160mm 140x158x160mm w/fans
TC14 = 140x134x160mm 140x159x171mm w/fans
SA . = . 147x123x160mm 151x149x160mm w/Fans
SB-E. = 155x105x164mm 170x130x170mm w/fans
Extreme 155x105x164mm 155x130x165mm w/fans Reason it's smaller is 140mm fan vs 150mm fan.

K2, D14 & TC14 are about same except for TC14 140mm fans & 31mm RAM clearance stack up to 171mm (my R2 is 165mm clearance and TC14 fits)

SB-E is widest by 15mm. Even wider with TY-150 fan = 170 (assuming fan is actually 170mm).

Extreme with TY-143 fans is still 155mm as fan is 151.5x141.5mm


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> I think I'd like to have your side panel please...looks very good man.


thanks.. im thinking i could mod panels on an exchange basis.. with 3 or 4 opening
choices.. and do it as well for the other case types.. looks like i gotta buy some fractal
cases for displays, huh? LOL...

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal*
> 
> I got my R4 a few days ago, a huge upgrade from my $60 dollar Lian-Li case i think. Loving the case so far. I have two Gentle Typhoons as exhaust on the top, two Gentle Typhoons as intake for the front, and a Phanteks fan as exhaust at the back. Still a work in progress, probably going to end up replacing the Phanteks with a Gentle Typhoon.
> Anyway, I have a question for other R4 owners. Is there a way to turn the bottom hard drive cage so it's not facing the side panel? I want to turn it to improve my airflow. I have attached a picture of how I currently have it setup.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the cellphone pic. It's the only thing I had atm.


the lower portion is bolted in, all youd have to do is resituate the lower portion to
align with the upper and mark new holes, drill new holes and now you have modded
the R4 case..

airdeano

Bill Owen of MNPCTECH has also explained on how to bolt the corsair H100 into
the roof of the new R4 chassis..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen of MNPCTECH*
> Contrary to what some reviewers have told people, The Define R4 will fit a Corsair H100 radiator in the top panel, however it will depend upon DDR slots and north/south/mosfet heatsink locations on some motherboard models. If you discover these elements are obstructing your 240 radiator install, You can do 2 things in the Define R4 to gain extra space for your 240 radiator install.
> 
> 1. Offset 240 radiator toward the left side of the top panel, by locating the radiator to the outer screw mounting holes used by optional 140mm fans in the top panel. There will be openings for all of the radiator mounting screws in the factory honeycomb perforations.
> 
> 2. Option 1 didn't buy you enough space? Then you can drill 4 additional radiator screw mounting holes toward left side of the top panel, to offset the 240 radiator even further, to clear any obstructions created by some motherboards.


hope this helps R4 owners..

airdeano


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> You want a down-flow flat cooler like the Geminii that is less than 165mm tall? Or do you want a cooler that will cool as good or better than GeminII that will fit in a 165mm case?
> I have a Phanteks PH-TC14PE shoehorned into my R2. Need very short RAM for 140mm fan to fit on top of.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running it vertical venting out top. Was just clearing cover while setting on NB heatsink cover. Ended up removing the NB cover so it would cool. (dropped temp from 75-80c to 48-53c) so have a little more clearance. Alpenfohn K2 fits nicely.
> My shortlist of contenders
> Cooler size comparison
> K2 . = . 140x128x158mm 146x154x160mm w/fans (WxDxH looking from front of case)
> D14 = . 140x130x160mm 140x158x160mm w/fans
> TC14 = 140x134x160mm 140x159x171mm w/fans
> SA . = . 147x123x160mm 151x149x160mm w/Fans
> SB-E. = 155x105x164mm 170x130x170mm w/fans
> Extreme 155x105x164mm 155x130x165mm w/fans Reason it's smaller is 140mm fan vs 150mm fan.
> K2, D14 & TC14 are about same except for TC14 140mm fans & 31mm RAM clearance stack up to 171mm (my R2 is 165mm clearance and TC14 fits)
> SB-E is widest by 15mm. Even wider with TY-150 fan = 170 (assuming fan is actually 170mm).
> Extreme with TY-143 fans is still 155mm as fan is 151.5x141.5mm


Wow, thank you for the suggestions and info! I was looking into down-flow flat coolers
+rep


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> supa-dupa.. thanks!
> well i got the side panel "cut-in" for the arc midi..
> whadda ya thinks?
> 
> airdeano


Awesome window man! Looks amazing


----------



## FDNFP14

Hey guys, decided that I liked the overall design of the arc midi more than the R4 so I pulled the trigger and bought a midi. Next steps are getting sleeved cables, a special surprise and, of course, a video card


----------



## corysti

Here the latest update on my R4 build. Dont mind the wires at the bottom. Its there until my powersupply is done getting sleeved.


----------



## VHJC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*


Hey! Are those fans Cougar Vertex 120mm on your rad? If so how are temps with them? Better than with Gentle Typhoon AP-15?

Thanks!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Hey guys, decided that I liked the overall design of the arc midi more than the R4 so I pulled the trigger and bought a midi. Next steps are getting sleeved cables, a special surprise and, of course, a video card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


congrats!!

i wouldnt hold onto all that HDD for one SSD.. velco it to the mobo tray and ditch the HDD cages all together.
mount a mechanical (if needed) in the optibays.. that way your new GPU can get awesome air.. not busted air..

you need one of these too..

side panel window to show it off.. my H100 (push/pull) just is visable at the top..
no HDD cages here!

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Here the latest update on my R4 build. Dont mind the wires at the bottom. Its there until my powersupply is done getting sleeved.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


corysti,
looks great. you gunna turn your lower HDD cage around as well? drill out rivets, rotate lower portion
remark new holes, drill new holes and screw/rivet them back together..

airdeano


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Pulled the trigger on a define mini. Next month I will be doing some small upgrades sleeving and what not then watercooling. Wanna make it elegant looking in there.

All I need then is a nice modded window on the side. How Much would ya charge Airdeano?


----------



## ANDMYGUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Pulled the trigger on a define mini. Next month I will be doing some small upgrades sleeving and what not then watercooling. Wanna make it elegant looking in there.
> All I need then is a nice modded window on the side. How Much would ya charge Airdeano?


Watercool a Define mini? Are you going for a front mount radiator? I've been thinking of doing that.


----------



## airdeano

i dunna know.. i dont have a case to mock from to fine the best reveals..
prolly $20 plus shipping if you'd tape it up, mark the lines.. i'll cut it on those
lines.. ship it back with 3M DS 410.. and you can stick the plexi on it..
no need in paying the extra shipping on a rectangle cut of plexi..
home depot/lowes has it in stock.. see screen door supplies.
think about it..

airdeano


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANDMYGUN*
> 
> Watercool a Define mini? Are you going for a front mount radiator? I've been thinking of doing that.


Wont know till I get a chance to play with it. Should be here in two days.

And Airdeano Ill hit you up when I water cool it Ill shell out 20 for an nice window thanks man.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Airdeano Ill hit you up when I water cool it Ill shell out 20 for an nice window thanks man


lemme know...

airdeano


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> congrats!!
> i wouldnt hold onto all that HDD for one SSD.. velco it to the mobo tray and ditch the HDD cages all together.
> mount a mechanical (if needed) in the optibays.. that way your new GPU can get awesome air.. not busted air..
> you need one of these too..


Thanks for the advice man. One question though - would mounting an additional 140mm fan at the bottom have a similar overall effect to removing the HDD trays? The reason I ask is that I eventually plan on having 3, if not 4 drives in (one for windows, one for linux, one for media) and both my drive bays will be taken up. I am also considering removing the 4 bay tray that is in there now and replacing it with the 3 bay bottom tray from the R4 (more for looks than anything else; I dont like the way the top of the midi HDD rack connects to the front of the case.

Let me know what you think


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> corysti,
> looks great. you gunna turn your lower HDD cage around as well? drill out rivets, rotate lower portion
> remark new holes, drill new holes and screw/rivet them back together..
> airdeano


Well with the R4 the only thing holding that cage is a few screws and so far I can't find a damn screw driver that will actually turn the screws at the bottom without stripping.

Btw, I won't be able to give you temps until I get my ssd and a new hdd in from newegg.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Thanks for the advice man. One question though - would mounting an additional 140mm fan at the bottom have a similar overall effect to removing the HDD trays? The reason I ask is that I eventually plan on having 3, if not 4 drives in (one for windows, one for linux, one for media) and both my drive bays will be taken up. I am also considering removing the 4 bay tray that is in there now and replacing it with the 3 bay bottom tray from the R4 (more for looks than anything else; I dont like the way the top of the midi HDD rack connects to the front of the case.
> Let me know what you think


if you are leaving the bottom HDD cage, yes it will.. just wont be able to use a powerful fan
as the cleance under the chassis is scant at best. the more powerful, the more area under
the fan and chassis is needed. i find that a high static pressure fan works best to pull past
a filter and project flow... something like the bitfenix spectre pro decent cfm and static pressure.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Well with the R4 the only thing holding that cage is a few screws and so far I can't find a damn screw driver that will actually turn the screws at the bottom without stripping.
> Btw, I won't be able to give you temps until I get my ssd and a new hdd in from newegg.


like above.. velcro the SSD on the back of mobo tray and mount the HDD in the opti..

airdeano


----------



## bortoloj

Small update, I replaced the noctua by Phobya G-Silent 12 and 14


----------



## ad3ath

Evil looking Arc!


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> like above.. velcro the SSD on the back of mobo tray and mount the HDD in the opti..
> airdeano


I plan on keeping my cage...Only reason I wanted to remove it was to put the radiator in the front but since I put it at the top I have room for the hd cages.


----------



## stellar

Does anyone know if the Adjust 108 fan controller is available anywhere yet??


----------



## airdeano

well it was announced in march 2012, and due to be shipped september 2012, but
no etailers have said they have 'em ordered. so itll prolly be for the holidays, my guess.

airdeano


----------



## TopFuel1471

http://www.benchtec.co.uk/forums/threads/6283-Xigmatek-Midgard-ATX-case-Photo-review

Looks almost exactly like the construction of a Fractal. The case feet, drive bays, and fan controller are identical to my Midi. Just an interesting thing I came across while searching about fan controllers. It's probably well known that the same company makes both Fractals and Xigmateks, but it's news to me.

And speaking of fan controllers, the one that is supplied is garbage. I managed to melt the SCR on it within 10 minutes of operation. Didn't even last as a temporary solution









Anyway, got some work done today.



I've never seen anyone mount an RX240 with push/pull up there before. Just enough room to where nothing touches. Might 45 the block outlet for looks though.


----------



## Shaefurr

Here's my work in progress R3. Still need to order a few new fans, some led sticks or cold cathodes, and cable sleeving in the next week or two.


----------



## FDNFP14

Hey airdeano, took your advice and removed the trays from the midi. I tried out the 3 HDD bay bottom tray from the R4 which looks good but the screw holes do not match up so I will have to drill it before I can install. For now, I just have my one SSD hanging out at the bottom. Next step is getting that tray in and then starting to clean up the cables!


----------



## TopFuel1471

I removed mine too. I'll just velcro some SSDs under the 5.25 bays and put a storage drive in one of them.

How did you mount those front nocturas?


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TopFuel1471*
> 
> I removed mine too. I'll just velcro some SSDs under the 5.25 bays and put a storage drive in one of them.
> How did you mount those front nocturas?


All you have to do is get 2 self tapping screws for each fan the same size as the fan mount screws. Attach the 140mm extensions to the nf-p14 then place them in the front fan mounts. Two of the mount holes will line up with a small piece of plastic sticking out of the cases fan mount. The other 2 will line up with a flat circular piece of plastic. Just screw the self tapping screws into the latter (the flat circular piece of plastic) and the fans are stable.

Sorry for the confusing description. Should have taken pics as I was doing it.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Hey airdeano, took your advice and removed the trays from the midi. I tried out the 3 HDD bay bottom tray from the R4 which looks good but the screw holes do not match up so I will have to drill it before I can install. For now, I just have my one SSD hanging out at the bottom. Next step is getting that tray in and then starting to clean up the cables!


Holey Moley....... ya spent all that money ona killer box.....now git yerself a light-buld so your pic is visible.

can't SEE anything


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> For now, I just have my one SSD hanging out at the bottom. Next step is getting that tray in and then starting to clean up the cables!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


aye... velcro or double-sided tape that SSD to the back of mobo tray or under the opti bays.
that way it looks as if belongs somewhere. looks great.. and yeah, a lil more lighting, please...
i wanna droll on those noc's.. LOL

airdeano


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Holey Moley....... ya spent all that money ona killer box.....now git yerself a light-buld so your pic is visible.
> can't SEE anything


Haha - case lighting will be coming. Have a couple other things I want to do to it first but it'll come. I think I know the answer but would you guys go the led route or cold catheter route?


----------



## Ramsey77

LED's


----------



## Sfirculitu

Anyone Know how to put 2x120 at the front on ARC MIDI?
i just put the order ,till friday i think im gona have it.

But becuse i have 6 Scythe typhoon 1850rpm im trying to find solution to put them in front!
for the beggining im gona put the 2x140 inclueded on the case
till to find a solution..

So anyone has any idea about that?


----------



## corysti

Hey I need some advice on what I should do...I currently have my R4 watercooled and I love the case but im seriously thinking of making it my folding rig and buying a full tower case for the watercooled build. Do you think I should do it or stick with the r4?


----------



## Sfirculitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> Anyone Know how to put 2x120 at the front on ARC MIDI?
> i just put the order ,till friday i think im gona have it.
> But becuse i have 6 Scythe typhoon 1850rpm im trying to find solution to put them in front!
> for the beggining im gona put the 2x140 inclueded on the case
> till to find a solution..
> So anyone has any idea about that?


UP UP ANYONE KNOW?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> Anyone Know how to put 2x120 at the front on ARC MIDI?
> i just put the order ,till friday i think im gona have it.
> But becuse i have 6 Scythe typhoon 1850rpm im trying to find solution to put them in front!
> for the beggining im gona put the 2x140 inclueded on the case
> till to find a solution..
> So anyone has any idea about that?


Make or buy a fan grill for 2 fans, and rig it to the front of the case somehow.


----------



## Sfirculitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Make or buy a fan grill for 2 fans, and rig it to the front of the case somehow.


Like?
Can you link me something to just take an idea?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Haha - case lighting will be coming. Have a couple other things I want to do to it first but it'll come. I think I know the answer but would you guys go the led route or cold catheter route?


LED.. cooler, no converter to hide, and light-weight so will stick well with little ds-tape.

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> Anyone Know how to put 2x120 at the front on ARC MIDI?
> i just put the order ,till friday i think im gona have it.
> But becuse i have 6 Scythe typhoon 1850rpm im trying to find solution to put them in front!
> for the beggining im gona put the 2x140 inclueded on the case
> till to find a solution..
> So anyone has any idea about that?


not knocking the AP-15 fans, but why?
way easier to hang the 140 fans without jacking up the front panel or making brackets
to mount to the chassis.
heres and alternate:
Swiftech Helix 140.. similar AP-15 blade look but in a 140mm pattern.. and still
cheaper than an AP-15.. to boot!
i just traded all my AP-15 for Swiftech Helix 120 PWM so they all would match as well.

airdeano


----------



## Sfirculitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Have no complaints with the six Noctuas in my Fractal Mini.
> Was not overly impressed with the "cheap" controller, nor was I satisfied with header control of fans.
> Back to a manual controller, and sound most defiantly not an issue. Virtually inaudible while surfing
> and easily jacked up for the big-boy stuff.
> Doubt you'll encounter heat issues with the fans you've listed


how you put the HDD over there?


----------



## Sfirculitu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> not knocking the AP-15 fans, but why?
> way easier to hang the 140 fans without jacking up the front panel or making brackets
> to mount to the chassis.
> heres and alternate:
> Swiftech Helix 140.. similar AP-15 blade look but in a 140mm pattern.. and still
> cheaper than an AP-15.. to boot!
> i just traded all my AP-15 for Swiftech Helix 120 PWM so they all would match as well.
> airdeano


The problem is not the Fans
I want to use the Scythe anyway becuse is the Theme Like this

Tommorow i can buy anything i want from 140
but i want the scythe that why
its going to be grey-black-white something like this

That why i want to put at least the 2 120 on the front


----------



## sherlock

Guys I got an R4 build ready to finish this weekend, how does this look:

*CPU: I5-3570K*
Mobo: ASUS P8Z77 V (Techpowerup 9.0/10)
Ram: 2X4G Samsung MV-3V4G3D/US (Yes, this is the 30nm OC maniac,techpowerup 9.8/10)
*Cooler: PH-TC14PE_BL*
*GPU: Gigabyte N670-OC-2GD(in SLI, Techpowerup 9.8/10)*,Tom's recommended buy.
*SSD: Samsung 830 256GB*(Techpowerup 9.5/10, Tom's best SSD for $$,Techreport.com editor's choice )
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Arctic White(Techpowerup 8.9/10, HTL.com editor's choice, adding 2-4 140mm fans)
*PSU: Seasonic X750 Gold*

p.s I have a 2 TB External for my back-ups and video, so I am going to back panel mount my SSD and remove both HDD cage to maxmize airflow. If I want a HDD later I will buy a 5.25" to 3.5" kit.

Status: Already have CPU/Cooler/SSD/PSU/GPU, waiting for the other parts coming in this Friday.
Accessories(already have):
24X DVD Burner(LG)
Microsoft wired Keyboard & Mouse(USB)
ASUS VG278H 120Hz monitor w/ 3D Vision 2 Kit

This is my plan to get a SGP(Silent Gaming Platform), goal is for it to be inaudible at idle and not noticeable in game(Battlefield 3). OC Target is about 4.6-4.7Ghz. Might experiment with a windowed panel later.

So is this set-up good? I made sure to read through available reviews everywhere and pick products with good reviews.

More detailed build & tuning log/benchmarks + Photos to come this weekend.

Once I get this build done I want in the club.


----------



## Dimaggio1103

SO got my Define Mini in today got it all together. It was a pain taking off back panel and putting it back on, too tight but I got it done. Super pissed though as when I buttoned it all up and pulled off the front plastic there is a 2-3 millimeter size deep scratch or ding in the front. Its small but way noticeable with that brushed look. Plus I'm OCD so its gonna bother the crap outta me. Hopefully they can send me a new front panel, like Rosewill did when I bought a case from them that had a broken front panel.

Other than those issues I really am enjoying the case. I'm folding 100% load right now and can barely tell its on. And surprisingly my temps have not gotten any worse. I thought for sure they would jump up around 5c being I only have 2 intake 1 exhaust compared to my Antec 300 4-1 fans.

I am a fan of fractal for sure now. My only other gripe is the bottom cage is not removable unless forced.


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Guys I got an R4 build ready to finish this weekend, how does this look:
> *CPU: I5-3570K*
> Mobo: ASUS P8Z77 V (Techpowerup 9.0/10)
> Ram: 2X4G Samsung MV-3V4G3D/US (Yes, this is the 30nm OC maniac,techpowerup 9.8/10)
> *Cooler: PH-TC14PE_BL*
> *GPU: Gigabyte N670-OC-2GD(in SLI, Techpowerup 9.8/10)*,Tom's recommended buy.
> *SSD: Samsung 830 256GB*(Techpowerup 9.5/10, Tom's best SSD for $$,Techreport.com editor's choice )
> Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Arctic White(Techpowerup 8.9/10, HTL.com editor's choice, adding 2-4 140mm fans)
> *PSU: Seasonic X750 Gold*
> p.s I have a 2 TB External for my back-ups and video, so I am going to back panel mount my SSD and remove both HDD cage to maxmize airflow. If I want a HDD later I will buy a 5.25" to 3.5" kit.
> Status: Already have CPU/Cooler/SSD/PSU/GPU, waiting for the other parts coming in this Friday.
> Accessories(already have):
> 24X DVD Burner(LG)
> Microsoft wired Keyboard & Mouse(USB)
> ASUS VG278H 120Hz monitor w/ 3D Vision 2 Kit
> This is my plan to get a SGP(Silent Gaming Platform), goal is for it to be inaudible at idle and not noticeable in game(Battlefield 3). OC Target is about 4.6-4.7Ghz. Might experiment with a windowed panel later.
> So is this set-up good? I made sure to read through available reviews everywhere and pick products with good reviews.
> More detailed build & tuning log/benchmarks + Photos to come this weekend.
> Once I get this build done I want in the club.


That setup will kick some a$$. Cant wait to see how it looks.

Love my R4 its a great case


----------



## doyll

Case on caster base. Bottom left the shadow shows how back is lower than sides so filter can slide in & out. The little triangle pieces on inside are to help index a magnetically attached Silvestone filter under middle bottom fan. Much easier to take off and clean than stock filter that's built into case.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case on caster base. Bottom left the shadow shows how back is lower than sides so filter can slide in & out. The little triangle pieces on inside are to help index a magnetically attached Silvestone filter under middle bottom fan. Much easier to take off and clean than stock filter that's built into case.


Rolling my PC around my room would probably entertain me for days TBH.


----------



## FDNFP14

Hey everyone - finally drilled out the bottom of the lower R4 HDD tray so I could install it in my Midi. I know it doesn't make a huge difference airflow wise but liked it a little better aesthetically and will eventually need the capacity for more drive bays. Will probably end up putting some carbon fiber tape on top of the tray to clean it up a little.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Hey everyone - *finally drilled out the bottom of the lower R4 HDD tray* so I could install it in my Midi. I know it doesn't make a huge difference airflow wise but liked it a little better aesthetically and will eventually need the capacity for more drive bays. Will probably end up putting some carbon fiber tape on top of the tray to clean it up a little.


Drilled out? AFAIK it( R4 Bottom HDD tray) was only bolted down to the bottom with screws, only need a screwdriver to remove that right?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> The problem is not the Fans
> I want to use the Scythe anyway becuse is the Theme Like this
> Tommorow i can buy anything i want from 140
> but i want the scythe that why
> its going to be grey-black-white something like this
> That why i want to put at least the 2 120 on the front


there is no link to look at scheme..
i painted my BGears 140mm fans:


and will prolly paint more.. way to easy than settling on something that may/may not function well.
check out the Swiftechs AP-15 clones..

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> SO got my Define Mini in today got it all together. It was a pain taking off back panel and putting it back on, too tight but I got it done.


the front panel guides can be spread out to allow a "looser" grip as not to bind. same with the
upper and lower guides (these are usually too tight causing your issue).

airdeano


----------



## Dimaggio1103

good looking out airdeano. will do. I would be lying if I said I dident expect more from this case, not as silent as I thought, however build quality is nice.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> ......not as silent as I thought, however build quality is nice.


what? the OE fans are frickin dead (no flow, but quiet) or overall, because the
side vent is HUGH and allows all interior racket to sound off...
before i loped the side-panel i bolted a piece of deadening to the 140 panel grill
and that was a marked improvement on system noise... i had asked FD if they'd
consider a Mod-U-Vent (R3 option) and they werent to keen on the idea said
"we only have 180mm".. uhh yeah, i have sissors and screws... anyway glad
the quaility was there for you..

airdeano


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Drilled out? AFAIK it( R4 Bottom HDD tray) was only bolted down to the bottom with screws, only need a screwdriver to remove that right?


Haha I should have been more clear. I unscrewed it from the r4 but had to drill new holes in order to screw it to the midi.


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> what? the OE fans are frickin dead (no flow, but quiet) or overall, because the
> side vent is HUGH and allows all interior racket to sound off...
> before i loped the side-panel i bolted a piece of deadening to the 140 panel grill
> and that was a marked improvement on system noise... i had asked FD if they'd
> consider a Mod-U-Vent (R3 option) and they werent to keen on the idea said
> "we only have 180mm".. uhh yeah, i have sissors and screws... anyway glad
> the quaility was there for you..
> airdeano


I don't have any side fans on I left the foam on it. just have two in the front and one in the back. probably will add one on bottom too. Once I get a new front panel Ill be good. For now though Im already mocking up some designs/themes to customize it. I was afraid whit fans would not go well with my black and red mobo but it dont look bad so ima keep them and do white tubing for water.


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfirculitu*
> 
> how you put the HDD over there?












first make a template of the HD's screw hole pattern

empty 51/2 drive bays , tranfer template over and drill
out matching holes

a 90 degree or right angled drill will come in handy

screw down thru drive bay into HD.

use some kinda suspension washer/standoff
to keep HD off of direct cage contact

real simple......but very effective


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Rolling my PC around my room would probably entertain me for days TBH.


Unfortunately....having a tower on or near the floor, is truly the worst place to keep it.

Basically, now you have a vacuum cleaner. Sucks in all kinds of particles. *[LOTSA DUST]*


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> first make a template of the HD's screw hole pattern
> empty 51/2 drive bays , tranfer template over and drill
> out matching holes
> a 90 degree or right angled drill will come in handy
> screw down thru drive bay into HD.
> use some kinda suspension washer/standoff
> to keep HD off of direct cage contact
> real simple......but very effective


Nice, I probably would have gone lazy and bought a 5.25->3.5 converter instead, good for you!


----------



## caffeinescandal

Heads up, if you want to score an R4 with a window, you can get it for 79.99 w/ free shipping using code "EMCNAHN76" at newegg.com. More deals here.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Don't tease.

Windowed R4 isn't out over here in the UK yet.

I really want one.


----------



## kim jong so ill

that would have been nice 4 days ago... when I bought mine for $105... fawk. lol


----------



## kim jong so ill

anywho, I'm new here. I just upgraded from the R3 to the R4 and freakin' love it.



not much to look at due to a crap camera, no mods, and sloppy wiring until I buy some sleeved cables; but it sure does look beautiful in person









anyways, some of you guys have some sick builds! I'm jelly.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal*
> 
> Heads up, if you want to score an R4 with a window, you can get it for 79.99 w/ free shipping using code "EMCNAHN76" at newegg.com. More deals here.


Considered this deal but I am SLIing with 2 Custom Cooler GPU so wanted the side grill for air to escape.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Considered this deal but I am SLIing with 2 Custom Cooler GPU so wanted the side grill for air to escape.


really not necessary for that request.
use high static pressure fans front intake, remove any unused pci slot covers (vented, mesh, high-flow remove them all)
all exhausts out the back-side. install side panel window from mesh from MNPCTECH.

airdeano


----------



## BluePhoenixHD

*Question*: Concerning the R4: It is on sale today and I was wondering, could I remove the Drop down cover to increase air flow. The case itself looks solidly built, problem is the temperatures.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BluePhoenixHD*
> 
> *Question*: Concerning the R4: It is on sale today and I was wondering, could I remove the Drop down cover to increase air flow. The case itself looks solidly built, problem is the temperatures.


"Drop down Cover"= ??

If it is the front door you are talking about you can leave it open to increase air flow, the second level cover can also be removed to increase airflow but then the only thing holding your front fans is a single clip so I wouldn't risk it.. Adding another 140mm front fan should take care of your cooling needs in most cases. The stock cooling is a bit weak with only 2X140mm but you can add up to 5 140mm fans so cooling won't be an issue.
If that don't please you, try add:
GPU cooling:
Bottom intake fan(filtered) slot with 120/140mm
Side panel exhaust 120/140mm

CPU cooling:
Open the top rear vent to allow hot air to escape, add a 120/140mm to help exhaust.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Unfortunately....having a tower on or near the floor, is truly the worst place to keep it.
> Basically, now you have a vacuum cleaner. Sucks in all kinds of particles. *[LOTSA DUST]*


Who said anything about turning it on?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Rolling my PC around my room would probably entertain me for days TBH.


ROTF LMAO figuratively speaking of course







:thumb:


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> Unfortunately....having a tower on or near the floor, is truly the worst place to keep it.
> Basically, now you have a vacuum cleaner. Sucks in all kinds of particles. *[LOTSA DUST]*


Unfortunately it is often the best alternative for many of us. Raising it up greatly improves airflow. Casters make it much easier to move... even play with for days







And having magnetically attached fliter make it easy to clean. Just think of it as an alternative hoover with reusable filter / bag on the bottom.


----------



## FDNFP14

I know I keep going back and forth but I think I am going to take airdeano's advice until I actually have more drives. Mounted my SSD on the bottom of my 5.25" bays. Did not want to use velcro so for now the drive is hanging on by two thumbscrews with rubber washers underneath. Will eventually drill extra 2 holes into the bottom of the bay so I can mount the SSD at all 4 mount points for stability and peace of mind. Also just threw the extra NF-P14 I had laying around onto the bottom fan mount. I know it looks out of place but figured it would do more there than on my desk


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Just want to say I am impressed with Fractal as a company. I bought my fractal case and it had a broke front panel. I called and without even asking for proof they are shipping me a brand new front panel within a week. Told me to just keep the old one for parts. No headaches no hassle just got the job done. Five minutes and Im done. That is a excellent customer service attitude.

After dealing with Asus horrible RMA process this is a welcomed relief, and I am a customer for life. Just though Id share my god experience for people considering Fractal.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Just want to say I am impressed with Fractal as a company. I bought my fractal case and it had a broke front panel. I called and without even asking for proof they are shipping me a brand new front panel within a week. Told me to just keep the old one for parts. No headaches no hassle just got the job done. Five minutes and Im done. That is a excellent customer service attitude.
> After dealing with Asus horrible RMA process this is a welcomed relief, and I am a customer for life. Just though Id share my god experience for people considering Fractal.


Glad to hear it









I asked for a replacement dust filter for my Core 1000. I was told Fractal could not provide that, so I was pretty bummed. Three days later, I get a brand new front panel at my front door along with the dust filter and accessories. Great service.


----------



## sherlock

An update on my R4 rig, the case have been delivered, however the new Mobo/Ram/Fans I wanted to go with it won't arrive till monday because newegg decided to ship from their California facility to my location in Indiana(instead of their facilities in New Jersey or Tennessee. I will install my old mobo & ram(someone else wanted to buy them from me so I ordered new ones) there tonight and give you guys some photos.


----------



## Michalius

Glad to see you went with the R4 Sherlock, you definitely won't regret it. It's my personal favorite in the $100 price range.


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Day two and I am loving my Define Mini. Wanna get some input. I fell in love with silence from my Rig and even got my 7870 back today, thank god cause the GTS 450 stand in was too loud. Anyways I wanna get some white 120mm Fans about 3 off them. are these nice and quite?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226045

I definitely want decent airflow but silence is priority, im willing to increase heat a bit. Ideas?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimaggio1103*
> 
> Day two and I am loving my Define Mini. Wanna get some input. I fell in love with silence from my Rig and even got my 7870 back today, thank god cause the GTS 450 stand in was too loud. Anyways I wanna get some white 120mm Fans about 3 off them. are these nice and quite?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226045
> 
> 
> I definitely want decent airflow but silence is priority, im willing to increase heat a bit. Ideas?


did you read the reviews.. didnt really poll that well and seemed to have the same
comment. the thermosistor seems to be an issue. prolly stick to a straight fan
option.

airdeano


----------



## Dimaggio1103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> did you read the reviews.. didnt really poll that well and seemed to have the same
> comment. the thermosistor seems to be an issue. prolly stick to a straight fan
> option.
> airdeano


Yea they all say its really quite. I cant find that exact fan without a thermosistor.


----------



## corysti

So everyone has the white and black r4 should I paint my black r4? If so what color would be a good color to paint it?


----------



## sherlock

My R4 build so far: Put it together tonight and got it to run fine, didn't add the SLI yet as I want to make sure it checks out thermally before doing so.

The new Mobo, Ram & new fans I wanted to add to it won't be here till monday so I had to make do with the old ones I eventually will sell:





Pardon the blurry photos, my hands shake really bad when I try to take a photo with my phone.

System is the same as the sig except:

My ASUS mobo is still in transit, using an Extreme 4 atm
My Samsung Ram still in transit, using Corsair
the Tail fan is a PH-140 from a friend's Phantek(he used TY-140 for his).

So far it is a bit noisy so I will check out a few things tomorrow:

Thermal so far: with 3 fans and all other fan slots sealed, my CPU/GPU temp in a Mark 11 run is about 3C higher compared to my old Thor V2 full tower.

Noise wise, inaudible while idle on 7V, slightly noticeable when on 12V and a bit noisy during benchmark run, but not as bad as my old case.

The Gigabyte GPU makes a weird whining sound when running 59-60%, will switch in my other card to check if it is bad card or all behave that way.

When I flip the PSU and smell the fan area it smells like something fried, although it still runs fine and I am still getting good voltages, not sure what's wrong with it.

Currently the PSU is pointing down and a bit too close to the ground(I heard a 140mm fan need at least 40mm of clerance, right now it is more like 15mm, will get some 2 inch high wood blocks tomorrow to boost the case up.


----------



## Sfirculitu

Here is my New One!

Very Happy with Fractal Midi
And Very happy leaving Nzxt Phantom


















I managed and i put 2x 120 scythe typhoon in the front!

Guys Be sure the stock Fans from fractal
Have no Air Flow!
and 3 on the top










and i want to put one 140 on the side panel
or one bitfenix that i have with red led
or the stock from fractal to put a little bit airflow
on the GPU


----------



## mironccr345

Moding the Core 1K a little bit for my Home server rig.

Making a removel HDD cage cause I dont like how the HDD's mount on the side. Painted it black too.





I'm also making a CPU cut out on the mobo tray. Tired of removing the PSU and the mobo just to remove the cpu cooler.


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Moding the Core 1K a little bit for my Home server rig.
> Making a removel HDD cage cause I dont like how the HDD's mount on the side. Painted it black too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also making a CPU cut out on the mobo tray. Tired of removing the PSU and the mobo just to remove the cpu cooler.





Oo Nice what else do you plan on doing?


----------



## sherlock

Update on my R4, went out to Menards to get some 3.5"X3.5"X7.5" Woodblocks to give my bottom PSU fan some clerance(it was 10-15mm off the ground previously).





Funny thing I found out: My Case pushes hard on the front two blocks and the rear right block making it very hard to move the blocks, however it applies no pressure at all on the rear left block, so it actually leaning slightly to the right. This make sense since the heaviest part of the Computer are all mounted on the right side(Mobo, CPU, SSD, my 1.24kg PH-TC14PE cooler and the 5 Kg PSU is closer to the right than the left.)


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Update on my R4, went out to Menards to get some 3.5"X3.5"X7.5" Woodblocks to give my bottom PSU fan some clerance(it was 10-15mm off the ground previously).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny thing I found out: My Case pushes hard on the front two blocks and the rear right block making it very hard to move the blocks, however it applies no pressure at all on the rear left block, so it actually leaning slightly to the right. This make sense since the heaviest part of the Computer are all mounted on the right side(Mobo, CPU, SSD, my 1.24kg PH-TC14PE cooler and the 5 Kg PSU is closer to the right than the left.)


On a hardwood floor there's plenty of clearence for the PSU to get air. Carpet I wouldn't trust as much ( I keep my computers on an extra slabs of granite from an old job site, and my house is all carpet ). Feet would sink into the carpet and cut off circulation.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> On a hardwood floor there's plenty of clearence for the PSU to get air. Carpet I wouldn't trust as much ( I keep my computers on an extra slabs of granite from an old job site, and my house is all carpet ). Feet would sink into the carpet and cut off circulation.


Yeah I heard from someone on OCN that 140mm fan need about 40 mm of clerance to function at 100% designed CFM so I went out and got the blocks to pop my Case up. If it don't make much of a difference I wouldn't really mind since the cost is minute compared to my system.


----------



## Jabba1977

Can I join to the club?.

This is my project on a fractal define R3 White... Hd cages are cut off!!! (very difficult).

Hard:

FRACTAL DEFINE R3 WHITE
THERMALTAKE TOUGHPOWER XT 1475W GOLD
ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX
PHENOM II X4 980BE
2x4GB G.SKILL RIPJAWS X 2133
SAMSUNG SSD 830 256GB
3 NB MULTIFRAME
I have too, 2x140mm red vortex, suggestions?...
Alpenföhn Matterhorn Shamrock Edition
HIS HD 7970 IceQ X² GHz Edition
LG BH10LS38 Blu-ray bulk
REHOBUS LAMPTRON FC9
HP ZR30W


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabba1977*
> 
> Can I join to the club?.
> This is my project on a fractal define R3 White... Hd cages are cut off!!! (very difficult).
> Hard:
> FRACTAL DEFINE R3 WHITE
> ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX
> PHENOM II X4 980BE
> 2x4GB G.SKILL RIPJAWS X 2133
> SAMSUNG SSD 830 256GB
> 3 NB MULTIFRAME
> I have too, 2x140mm red vortex, suggestions?...
> Alpenföhn Matterhorn Shamrock Edition
> HIS HD 7970 IceQ X² GHz Edition
> LG BH10LS38 Blu-ray bulk
> REHOBUS LAMPTRON FC9
> HP ZR30W





Nice i must ask why the 1475W Psu your Build could easily get away with a good 600w Psu ?


----------



## Jabba1977

Because this psu was for a previous RMA and i´m loving it!!! ;-D .

In the future I could upgrade easily my pc, this psu has seven years of quarantee!!!.

Thanks!!!.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Nice i must ask why the 1475W Psu your Build could easily get away with a good 600w Psu ?


Unless he planned on quad-fire/sli of top end cards.


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabba1977*
> 
> Because this psu was for a previous RMA and i´m loving it!!! ;-D .
> In the future I could upgrade easily my pc, this psu has seven years of quarantee!!!.
> Thanks!!!.


Fair Enough then haha Do you mean Warranty?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Unless he planned on quad-fire/sli of top end cards.


Well yeah very true also


----------



## Jabba1977

(sorry for my english, I´m spanish...haha)


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabba1977*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for my english, I´m spanish...haha)


Haha Nah its cool


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Oo Nice what else do you plan on doing?


Thanks. Nothing else I guess. I'd like two mod the front so I can add another 120mm fan and possibly a side panel window. But those will be later down the road. I fixed two things about the case that annoyed me the most.


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Thanks. Nothing else I guess. I'd like two mod the front so I can add another 120mm fan and possibly a side panel window. But those will be later down the road. I fixed two things about the case that annoyed me the most.


Ah okay cool im think of doing that also + Cutting a 120mm Honeycomb style Hole in the bottom of my case not sure yet.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> Ah okay cool im think of doing that also + Cutting a 120mm Honeycomb style Hole in the bottom of my case not sure yet.


That would be interesting to see. Post pics if you decided to do it. Also, I thought about making a little cover for the top to hide the PSU and the cables. Might do it this time around as I have a sheet of aluminum and paint ready to go.


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That would be interesting to see. Post pics if you decided to do it. Also, I thought about making a little cover for the top to hide the PSU and the cables. Might do it this time around as I have a sheet of aluminum and paint ready to go.


Hmm yeah that a good idea aswell, The only problem is going to be getting all the little honeycomb shapes to match up and be perfect.


----------



## freeze

My Fractal Core 1000..
Still waiting for my side panel to be finished..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> *On a hardwood floor there's plenty of clearence for the PSU to get air*. Carpet I wouldn't trust as much ( I keep my computers on an extra slabs of granite from an old job site, and my house is all carpet ). Feet would sink into the carpet and cut off circulation.


Simple math says you are wrong.








Face area of fan vs circumference of fan times clearance provided by stock feet (17mm) for intake.
15.38 sq cm fan area vs 7.47 sq cm intake... on hard surface, not carpet.








Raise case up so you have 40mm clearance and your intake area becomes 17.58 sq cm.
Raise case up so you have 50mm clearance and your intake area becomes 21.9 sq cm.
Add a 140mm intake fan for case in front of PSU fan and PSU fan looses 25% of it's intake area which means 21.9 sq cm is now 16.42 sq cm free access to airflow... Which is the reason I suggest 50mm

Technical fan area is just fan blade area without center hub/mother area; 15.38 - 1.26 = 14.12 sq cm.

But add in the airflow resistance for turning air 90 degrees from floor to fan, friction of air sliding on floor and case bottom, etc. and you can see why I'm calling a spade a shovel. Stock feet set case too close to surface.









Add carpet and... well... shall we say even more clearance is needed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jabba1977*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for my english, I´m spanish...haha)


Your English is better than many English English.









Beautiful build.

And that big PSU doesn't cost any more to run then a smaller one so why use what you got? Much cheaper than buying another.


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Simple math says you are wrong.


And yet the tempurate probe in my PSU says the temps are 2C above ambient of my room. So the fan while not optimal in performane in regards to what the fan _can_ do, it is plenty optimal in what it _needs_ to do in terms of keeping the power supply at an efficienct running tempurature.

If you really want to be paranoid enough to get that extra airflow to drop the temps to ambient, then by all means, go ahead it's your computer afterall. I'm not that paranoid and have never noticed a major difference in cooling or efficiency to warrant raising a case 2 inches.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> And that big PSU doesn't cost any more to run then a smaller one so why use what you got? Much cheaper than buying another.


A PSU that large without the parts able to run it within it's effeciency margin rating will make it run at higher loads than say a 500w or 600w would. There's plenty of tests out there that show it, running the same set up and just using higher and higher rated PSU's, you can watch a kilowatt meter numbers raise. A marginal difference in price for most people but a difference nontheless.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freeze*
> 
> My Fractal Core 1000..
> Still waiting for my side panel to be finished..


----------



## K4IKEN

Just a little update to the build, I'm done for now except some case lighting and a new CPU, waiting for PD to decide what route I'm going to take, expensive or economical..


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Just a little update to the build, I'm done for now except some case lighting and a new CPU, waiting for PD to decide what route I'm going to take, expensive or economical..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Should remove that top drive rail if you aren't using the cages, it's an eyesore


----------



## K4IKEN

Yea, I agree.. need to find a way to do it because it screws in from the drive bays. I would need a small/right angle screwdriver, but I'll definitely look into it.


----------



## Shrak

I used a regular (short) screwdriver to get mine out of my XL


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> I used a regular (short) screwdriver to get mine out of my XL


What PSU are you using that have a temperature probe? I couldn't find a way to monitor my Seasonic.


----------



## homestyle

would a fan controller fit in the 5.25" bay of the define r4?

the knobs stick out half an inch and the door may get in the way.


----------



## ahsjose

Anyone have any info on the ADJUST 108??. I heard this was going to start shipping in the beginning of September, it is almost October.
http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=80


----------



## ishy3

i have the arc midi, after removing the front fan filter mesh cover only twice to clean the metal tabs have broken off! the ones at the top and bottom are still intact as they're slightly thicker but all the side ones have fell off








anyone else had this problem? btw i was always gentle in bending them so as to not break them but well that didnt work.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ishy3*
> 
> i have the arc midi, after removing the front fan filter mesh cover only twice to clean the metal tabs have broken off! the ones at the top and bottom are still intact as they're slightly thicker but all the side ones have fell off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone else had this problem? btw i was always gentle in bending them so as to not break them but well that didnt work.


Yeah that happened to me on a few. Contact Fractal and ask them if they can send you a new mesh panel.


----------



## ishy3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yeah that happened to me on a few. Contact Fractal and ask them if they can send you a new mesh panel.


cool, ill email them now n see what they say


----------



## Lukegrimbley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yea, I agree.. need to find a way to do it because it screws in from the drive bays. I would need a small/right angle screwdriver, but I'll definitely look into it.


I used a 1/4" rachet with a bit adaptor


----------



## sherlock

I am more interested in if a NA retailer carries Windowed Panel for Define R4 White, if my R4 checks out thermally without the side grill fan I am seriously considering a Window Panel( currently only reatiler in NA are Newegg,NCIX &Microcenter)


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> I am more interested in if a NA retailer carries Windowed Panel for Define R4 White


currently, no news of the release in any etailer at this time. release stated september, but nothing yet..
if your R4 doesn't improve with the side fan, mod your own side panel..

airdeano


----------



## ad3ath

I just cut my fan filter from the top in half so my top 200mm fan can have some airflow and look pretty lol.







looks sweet in the dark.


----------



## mironccr345

Just finished my Core 1K Home Server rig.

Here's the HDD caged I used, vertical mount. It can fit up to three HDD's.


After:


Also made a CPU Cutout.


Finished Rig.


----------



## sherlock

Here is my still work in progress R4 rig, need to tweak the cooling a little bit, get used to the mobo and settings, do some more OC and add the SLI, but the backbone is already in:

This is my updated system:
CPU: i5-3570K(3.4Ghz stock,3.6Ghz 4 core boost,yet to OC)
Cooler: Phantek PH-TC14PE_BL
Ram: 2 X 4G Samsung MV-3V4G3D/US, DDR3-1866(OC) 9-9-9-24 1T, 1.35V
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V
GPU: Gigabyte N670-OC-2GD (1150Mhz Boost, yet to OC, SLI soon.
Storage: Samsung 830 256GB
Optical: LG 24X DVD burner
PSU: Seasonic X750 Gold
Case Define R4

Pictures:

Enough NT-H1 TIM?


Tail fan & Side fan are Xigmatek XLF-F1454, 1000 rpm, 63.5 rpm, 16 dba, Blue fan w/white LED

Benchmarks:
Ram OC:


SSD:


Mark 11 with stocked CPU and GPU, 1866Mhz Ram already paying off, my highest physics score yet and first P9.1K result.

More photos and benchmarks to come.

1080p Heaven 3.0 run with the stock 1150Mhz GPU,


Tempwise,after a Mark 11 & Heaven 3.0 run back to back.


More Pics to come.


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Just finished my Core 1K Home Server rig.
> Here's the HDD caged I used, vertical mount. It can fit up to three HDD's.
> 
> After:
> 
> Also made a CPU Cutout.
> 
> Finished Rig.





That Noctua Rear fan looks quite nice might get myself one, Good work on the Cutout and hdd cage


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Just finished my Core 1K Home Server rig.
> Here's the HDD caged I used, vertical mount. It can fit up to three HDD's.


Beautiful build.









But why put the hard drives in like a wall blocking airflow?


----------



## Shrak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Beautiful build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why put the hard drives in like a wall blocking airflow?


Looking at the picture made me notice that too.


----------



## bortoloj

Hello









I've removed hdd cages because the airflow was not optimal, now it blows a lot


----------



## CooperJS

hey man what fans are they look very nice and are they quiet and would you recommend them?

You case looks very nice man good job









Cooper


----------



## bortoloj

Yes i recommend them it's very quiet , all the silverstone ap121 are in 7v and the 3 phobya g-silent 12/14 are in 10v.


----------



## tonyjones

I think I'm going to build a fileserver from the R3 that is laying around, 8 x 3TB with main OS on 128gb SSD, now i'm deciding if I should go hardware raid or software raid, 400-500W super quiet psu along with mini itx mobo


----------



## sherlock

Update on my R4: More photos, getting ready to OC the GPU and CPU then SLI over the weekend.


----------



## Michalius

Love the white R4!

Got my camera and lights out for some other things I needed to take pictures of, so took a few decent shots of my R4 build as well.


----------



## Arvin

That is beautiful Michalius! Now I don't know if I want black or white once I finally get one


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Love the white R4!
> Got my camera and lights out for some other things I needed to take pictures of, so took a few decent shots of my R4 build as well.


Wish I had a real camera and those beautiful calbes


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Does anyone know if there is an update on the Windowed side panel in the UK? Starting to get frustrated!

I can hear my dremel calling! I'm not sure if I can fight the urge!


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tonyjones*
> 
> I think I'm going to build a fileserver from the R3 that is laying around, 8 x 3TB with main OS on 128gb SSD, now i'm deciding if I should go hardware raid or software raid, 400-500W super quiet psu along with mini itx mobo


Why the SSD? You could just as easily use a 20GB HDD and Freenas to save yourself alot of money!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> That Noctua Rear fan looks quite nice might get myself one, Good work on the Cutout and hdd cage


Thanks! The fan was off a NH-U9B SE2 I had lying around. Super Quite for a server build and I like the color.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Beautiful build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But why put the hard drives in like a wall blocking airflow?


That pic was just to get an idea of how it will sit. There is a slight gap between the cage and the fan. You can see that the HDD cage also has some holes for air to get through.


Spoiler: Air Flow






But your right, not much air will pass through the case. I was origially going to use THIS cooler, but decided to go with THIS so my main components will be able to get a decent amount of air flow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrak*
> 
> Looking at the picture made me notice that too.












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've removed hdd cages because the airflow was not optimal, now it blows a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean rig. Are those SilverStone fans in the front?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> Love the white R4!
> Got my camera and lights out for some other things I needed to take pictures of, so took a few decent shots of my R4 build as well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Like the color scheme of the cables. Nice work.


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Clean rig. Are those SilverStone fans in the front?


yes, they are Silverstone Ap121 red led


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> yes, they are Silverstone Ap121 red led


Those look awesome too bad they don't make LEDs for the AP 141 I want to add to my R4, they are all UV instead.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> yes, they are Silverstone Ap121 red led


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Those look awesome too bad they don't make LEDs for the AP 141 I want to add to my R4, they are all UV instead.


Nice, I didn't know they came in Red. I have a couple of AP121 UV Blue's. They look really good when their under the UV cathode.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice, I didn't know they came in Red. I have a couple of AP121 UV Blue's. They look really good when their under the UV cathode.


Yeah I will have to get some UV cathodes when I get the AP141, the LED model for AP fans are designated AP121L and they came in Red/Green/Blue and another color I don't remember.


----------



## Michalius

I know aesthetics are very subjective, but the thought of UV in an R4 seems really strange.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> I know aesthetics are very subjective, but the thought of UV in an R4 seems really strange.


Why so? If they look bad I might not get the Cathodes but I am definately getting the AP141 so might as well spend some to make them look good(maybe plus window panel but only if it don't substantially hurt my GPU cooling..


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> That pic was just to get an idea of how it will sit. There is a slight gap between the cage and the fan. You can see that the HDD cage also has some holes for air to get through.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Air Flow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But your right, not much air will pass through the case. I was origially going to use :


The gap between cage and fan still doesn't change much. No air is going through the HDDs.







You have a wall in front of your fan and the air has to go around it... and some will. But if HDDs were turned 90 degrees the air would go between them.... and cage side would be parallel to airflow too.








Still think it's a beautiful build.!


----------



## airdeano

CCT is 1990's stuff... the new tech is LED, lighter, easier to mount and no ugly converter to hide.

airdeano


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Why so? If they look bad I might not get the Cathodes but I am definately getting the AP141 so might as well spend some to make them look good(maybe plus window panel but only if it don't substantially hurt my GPU cooling..


UV strikes me as adolescent, whereas the R4 is the antithesis of that.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> UV strikes me as adolescent, whereas the R4 is the antithesis of that.


So R4 owners should avoid LED/UV like the plague and just run normal fans?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> So R4 owners should avoid LED/UV like the plague and just run normal fans?


To each his own I say. I grew out of LED about a year after installing a few LED fans.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> The gap between cage and fan still doesn't change much. No air is going through the HDDs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a wall in front of your fan and the air has to go around it... and some will. But if HDDs were turned 90 degrees the air would go between them.... and cage side would be parallel to airflow too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still think it's a beautiful build.!


Your point is valid, that's why I opted for the Down Blowing CPU cooler so the main components will have more air flow. My first intention's were to mount the HDD's in a horizontal position, but once I did a mock build, I had a PSU cable clearance as the HDD cage would have blocked half of the 24 pin connection. I Would have been better off buying an R3 for a server rig, but decided to mod the one I have. The modded Core1k will do for now. Thanks for the input and kind words.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> So R4 owners should avoid LED/UV like the plague and just run normal fans?


As I said, it's subjective, so I'm not going to tell any R4 owner what they should do (unless its an objective upgrade/improvement of the case, like removing a drive bay that you aren't using for better airflow). But, yeah, I think UV in general looks tacky and is compounded when in the R4.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michalius*
> 
> As I said, it's subjective, so I'm not going to tell any R4 owner what they should do (unless its an objective upgrade/improvement of the case, like removing a drive bay that you aren't using for better airflow). But, yeah, I think UV in general looks tacky and is compounded when in the R4.


Alright, I will hold off on the Cathodes, thinking about adding the AP 141s since according to HTL's review replacing a Define XL's stock fan with AP 141 s and a AP 181 dropped CPU & GPU temp by 4-5C.

Benchmark D - All stock fans are replaced with AP141 intake and exhaust and AP181 exhaust. Tested with and without additional AP121L in front



Considering Define R4 +1 140mm fan probably have better airflow than the XL(less 5.25" drives means top intake fan airflow a lot closer to the CPU, smaller case means airflow speed at CPU & GPU areas will be higher due to less distance traveled).


----------



## humanoidal

Hello gentlemen, my first post here on overclock.net









I'm thinking about buying the Core 1000 case, because of the small form factor and, lets be honest, price.

I have one question regarding the case - *Can you mount 3,5" HDD in the 5,25" slot on top?*

If no it's a dealbreaker for me, because I won't be able to connect PCI power for my GPU and I want the interior to look reasonably clean. Actually, I want to fit an ODD, HDD and SSD in those two 5,25" bays. Possible?

Now that I think about it, I need the top 5,25" bay obove the ODD for all the cables from my non modular PSU. What is the best way to mound my HDD and SSD then? I dont want them to be hanging sideways.


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *humanoidal*
> 
> Hello gentlemen, my first post here on overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about buying the Core 1000 case, because of the small form factor and, lets be honest, price.
> I have one question regarding the case - *Can you mount 3,5" HDD in the 5,25" slot on top?*
> If no it's a dealbreaker for me, because I won't be able to connect PCI power for my GPU and I want the interior to look reasonably clean. Actually, I want to fit an ODD, HDD and SSD in those two 5,25" bays. Possible?
> Now that I think about it, I need the top 5,25" bay obove the ODD for all the cables from my non modular PSU. What is the best way to mound my HDD and SSD then? I dont want them to be hanging sideways.


You can get various 5.25" to 3.5/2.5" bay adaptors. If I read that right.

Something like this to have both the 3.5" and and ODD in the one bay.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *humanoidal*
> 
> Hello gentlemen, my first post here on overclock.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about buying the Core 1000 case, because of the small form factor and, lets be honest, price.
> I have one question regarding the case - *Can you mount 3,5" HDD in the 5,25" slot on top?*
> If no it's a dealbreaker for me, because I won't be able to connect PCI power for my GPU and I want the interior to look reasonably clean. Actually, I want to fit an ODD, HDD and SSD in those two 5,25" bays. Possible?
> Now that I think about it, I need the top 5,25" bay obove the ODD for all the cables from my non modular PSU. What is the best way to mound my HDD and SSD then? I dont want them to be hanging sideways.


The case comes with one 5.25" to 3.25" bay adapter. You can mount the SSD pretty much anywhere you want with some Velcro or 3m Double Sided tape. So you can mount an ODD on the top, HDD right under and the SSD where ever you want. I would run the PSU cables through the 5.25" bay hole then mount the 5.25" to 3.25" adapter before you start routing your cables. It's going to be a tight fit, but it can be done.


----------



## freeze

Finished my sidepanel..


----------



## wompwomp

Does the R4's front panel have a aluminum brushed look to it? I can't tell in the pictures.


----------



## kim jong so ill

If anyone just so happens to live around Phoenix, AZ and wants to buy my old R3 for $40, please let me know. been trying to sell this on Craigslist, but not turning out so hot.


----------



## humanoidal

This is how the interior of my current case looks right now:



It's quite clean, with tons of sata and molex power connectos hidden behind the HHD bays. I guess an "upgrade" to Core 1000 wound only make more mess and cause worse cooling? Also I've heard that the front fan in Core 1000 can be quite loud, is that true? Still it's a tempting option considering the size of the case.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freeze*
> 
> Finished my sidepanel..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that is a clean side panel. Looks like a perfect cut. Where did you get the acrylic and do you mind sharing your measurements for the window?


----------



## sherlock

Well, On my R4 Cable Management redux:

First, I tried to route the entire 24 pin ATX behind the back:


Looks good, however due to the Sata and Power cables going to my backpanel SSD I was unable to close the backpanel in this configuration.

Second, this is my compromise: don't look as good but at least I can close the backpanel and the cable isn't obstructing airflow.



Looks alright?


----------



## freeze

@mironccr345
Thanks.. i got the acrylic here at a local glass shop. The sizes of the acrylic is roughly 9x9".


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> Does the R4's front panel have a aluminum brushed look to it? I can't tell in the pictures.


Yep, the black and grey do. I'm not too sure about the white version though. IMO it looks pretty good, nice and subtle.


----------



## TheNovice

Hi all,

Loving this thread - nice pics and good ideas.

Just looking into the possibility of going from air to water cooling.
I have the Define XL which i really love due to it being big and very good build quality.

I am planning on modding the top to recive a 240mm to 360mm radiator (removing the 180mm fan top rear)
Additionally I would like to have a 240mm rad in the front bottom facing outwards where there is room for 2 x 140mm fans.

I know this will take some modding - has this been done before?
Pictures - links - insight would be highly appreciated.

I could make room for the 240mm rad in the bottom, but i like the idae of having the rad in the front.

\M


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freeze*
> 
> @mironccr345
> Thanks.. i got the acrylic here at a local glass shop. The sizes of the acrylic is roughly 9x9".


Nice, looks really clean. Did you use a dremel or a saw? Thinking of doing something similar to my core 1K to show off the Noc fans.


----------



## freeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice, looks really clean. Did you use a dremel or a saw? Thinking of doing something similar to my core 1K to show off the Noc fans.


a friend of mine (who has steady hands) used the dremel. Yes.it's really nice to show those fans and internals..


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Hi all,
> Loving this thread - nice pics and good ideas.
> Just looking into the possibility of going from air to water cooling.
> I have the Define XL which i really love due to it being big and very good build quality.
> I am planning on modding the top to recive a 240mm to 360mm radiator (removing the 180mm fan top rear)
> Additionally I would like to have a 240mm rad in the front bottom facing outwards where there is room for 2 x 140mm fans.
> I know this will take some modding - has this been done before?
> Pictures - links - insight would be highly appreciated.
> I could make room for the 240mm rad in the bottom, but i like the idae of having the rad in the front.
> \M


Yeah the Define XL is quiete a good case for watercooling if yoo are in modding.

There is quiete a good projekt log of NKH
You should take a look at it:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1022573/project-rusty-cage-fractal-design-define-xl-gpu-waterblocks-installed-new-pics



There are always good threads on the web just google your way throw it









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TheNovice

Thanks DJKAY

I know of that thread - very nice work (and inspiring - will try not to copy.. to much)
Spending the night taking all the measurements needed.
Browsing stuff to buy - when I win the lottery.









Initial measurement indicates that with a bit of modding a 280 rad will fit in the front of the XL.
That is if the rad is no thicker than 50mm. Any thicker than 50mm and a bit more work has to be put into the project.

No - off to buy that lottery ticket!


----------



## bortoloj

Mod carbon


----------



## MiiX

Well, I'v had the Core 1000 for a while for measuring and stuff but I'm now using it as a temporary case for my rig while i plan the watercooling for this beast of a case. Im not going to use the parts in the case now as it just wont work with the layout in my head, 3x120mm rad, watercooler GPU and CPU... But i gotta do some testing with the case aswell as cutting and removing stuff inside it.

My plan is to move the PSU, get a GPU with short PCB, ex GTX670. Also no external radiators, pumps or anything like this. So, its a tight fit!and i will need Mnpctech to help me out with a few grills and u-channel and a few other things like tape ect...

For now:


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Mod carbon


What brand of carbon wrap is that? link please? That looks amazing.


----------



## bortoloj

I'm French, the shop is yakaquiper

http://www.yakaequiper.com/carbone-3d-noir-c-119_184.html?osCsid=vp5vh5s7ihcgue1vj56nqe9kk4

I don't know if they deliver in the United States


----------



## Nuzart

If you're american, http://www.mnpctech.com/CarbonFiber.html or http://www.mnpctech.com/CarbonFiber_Gunmetal_Titanium.html


----------



## SoliDD

Can anyone confirm or deny that a Coolermaster Hyper 212+ fits in a Fractal Core 1000?


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> You can get various 5.25" to 3.5/2.5" bay adaptors. If I read that right.
> Something like this to have both the 3.5" and and ODD in the one bay.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


holy crap! where do i get one of those? thats exactly what i need.

(couldnt find one at newegg.)


----------



## Nuzart

Google Images









I'll try find what its called though. Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817998058


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuzart*
> 
> Google Images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try find what its called though. Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817998058


oh jeez. didnt even think of looking in the HDD accessories.

thank you!


----------



## airdeano

ive got that same on in my test bench holding my only dvd-rw and two ssd
works out great and saves space as well..

airdeano


----------



## Farmer Boe

Just bought a Define R4 windowed edition in Black Pearl! So stoked!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> No - off to buy that lottery ticket!


I´m with you


----------



## jshzigler

Is it possible to fit two H80's inside of a Define Mini. One in the front and one in the roof preferably. Also, would you still have room for another intake in the front and exhaust in the back?


----------



## MiiX

Depends on how you mount the radioator of the h80. But I guess its doable.


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoliDD*
> 
> Can anyone confirm or deny that a Coolermaster Hyper 212+ fits in a Fractal Core 1000?


Nope It wont my Coolermaster Hyper TX3 Evo Only just fits i couldn't even fit my side fan on so i had to take the fan off


----------



## ampy60

Made some adjustments, What do you guys think?

to


----------



## TheNovice

Nice sleeving - great work!


----------



## draterrojam

I think i want you to come over and do my cable management


----------



## TheNovice

Anyone know what size the blue power LED is - 3mm or 5mm?

\M


----------



## adi518

That signature 680 is a sexy beast!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> Made some adjustments, What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to


The white and blue looks amazing bud


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> What brand of carbon wrap is that? link please? That looks amazing.


I got my carbon fiber from eBay...just search for Di Noc carbon fiber .....you want to get the 3M brand that's the best one


----------



## Electrochef

In the club!


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Electrochef*
> 
> In the club!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I got my carbon fiber from eBay...just search for Di Noc carbon fiber .....you want to get the 3M brand that's the best one


Di Noc. Gotchya. Thanks.


----------



## airdeano

metro-restyling has a great price on 3M and a 3D print as well..


this is the 3D print with a raised texture grain.

airdeano


----------



## Farmer Boe

Hey guys, here are a few pics of my Llano setup in the Define R4. Please excuse the cabling since this is only temporary and will be swapped out once Trinity is released.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Farmer Boe*
> 
> Hey guys, here are a few pics of my Llano setup in the Define R4. Please excuse the cabling since this is only temporary and will be swapped out once Trinity is released.


why single fan on the D14? I see you put the other fan as a bottom intake.


----------



## ampy60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *draterrojam*
> 
> I think i want you to come over and do my cable management


Well, do you live in Utah?


----------



## adi518

I tell you the truth guys.. I really don't like Fractal's window or any other cut off panel with a window. The best and most beautiful solution is to make something like ekg84 did.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

I agree but I like showing off my white LEDs.


----------



## draterrojam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> Well, do you live in Utah?


close....connecticut...no?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I tell you the truth guys.. I really don't like Fractal's window or any other cut off panel with a window. The best and most beautiful solution is to make something like ekg84 did.


agree.. thats why i went on my own with this..





as i need to see and view.. the LEDS will be soon. still like Ramsey's all glass idea, but that'll come
with another build....

airdeano


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> why single fan on the D14? I see you put the other fan as a bottom intake.


It's because I used to swap the ram around alot for benchmarking and the front fan got in the way of the dimm slots. The single 140mm center fan keeps the cpu cool enough for the highest oc I could manage.


----------



## Malik




----------



## AbdullahG

That's beautiful.

I'm tempted to sell my rig and build a new one from the ground up, but I'm not sure if it's worth the time doing so.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


>


What fan/shroud is that at the bottom of your case in the last picture?


----------



## K4IKEN

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*






What camera and lens are you using.. Looks like a 50mm lens with that buttery smooth bokeh. Awesome pictures.


----------



## AbdullahG

The camera probably costs more than the build


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


I like the black / red, I've the same









Where did you buy these Phobya fans ?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> agree.. thats why i went on my own with this..
> 
> 
> as i need to see and view.. the LEDS will be soon. still like *Ramsey's all glass* idea, but that'll come
> with another build....
> airdeano


Thanks Dood.







(the wires aren't normally like that. I have to pull it away from the wall to get a decent pic).


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> What fan/shroud is that at the bottom of your case in the last picture?


I think it is the Skythe Himuro hdd cooler / silencer (actaully don't know thright word in English -__-)

Also love this build!!


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> agree.. thats why i went on my own with this..
> 
> 
> as i need to see and view.. the LEDS will be soon. still like Ramsey's all glass idea, but that'll come
> with another build....
> airdeano


hey bro I love that window and I would like to get something like that done for mine. How much would you charge me if I drove down to your town with the panel to get it done? I'll buy food and you pick the place lmao.


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


God your rig is just so darn awesome!


----------



## gEEKaDE

-delete-


----------



## gEEKaDE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> It won't be available for purchase until September:
> http://www.tomshardware.com/news/fractal-design-fan-controller-speed,15596.html


It's October, anyone know where's the controller?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


What camera did you use to take these pics?


----------



## gEEKaDE

-delete-


----------



## Malik

Answers









1. On the bottom of case - Scynthe Himuro ( HDD case )

2. Nikon D700 with nikkor 50/1.4G lens


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that's nice. Awesome pics too.


----------



## tonyjones

that's damn secksi, My R3 black pearl is about to start build, waiting on CPU now


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Answers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. On the bottom of case - Scynthe Himuro ( HDD case )
> 2. Nikon D700 with nikkor 50/1.4G lens


Thanks









Looks like I'll be getting one to cover up my HDD.


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I'll be getting one to cover up my HDD.


I had the exact same idea today but I think the Himuro is hard to find in the US and more expensive as well. I ordered from here today and it looks like they still have a few left in stock if you are interested. If you are able to find a better price, congrats but my short search only gave me this retailer.


----------



## Malik

New Direct CU III Cooler


----------



## CooperJS

that looks madddd!!! Love the looks of your case and the way it looks so clean. By the way what cpu cooler is that??

Cooper


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CooperJS*
> 
> that looks madddd!!! Love the looks of your case and the way it looks so clean. By the way what cpu cooler is that??
> Cooper


It is an awesome looking rig.

I think it's a Prolimatech Megahalems Black.


----------



## Moolers

Can you fit a 180mm PSU (Corsair HX850) in the Core 1000?

Cheers,
Moo


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> It is an awesome looking rig.
> I think it's a Prolimatech Megahalems Black.


True







This is Megahalems Black Edition


----------



## corysti

Guy's i need some advice...Do you think a Blue, orange and white theme would look alright? I bought all of my current water cooled stuff and sleeved all of my cables orange to fit with my previous board and of course it went bad so now I got a blue msi board. Only blue that will be seen would be the motherboard.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Guy's i need some advice...Do you think a Blue, orange and white theme would look alright? I bought all of my current water cooled stuff and sleeved all of my cables orange to fit with my previous board and of course it went bad so now I got a blue msi board. Only blue that will be seen would be the motherboard.


Blue and Orange wouldn't look bad....this is coming from a Bears fan though.







GO BEARS!


----------



## corysti

Haha, I thought about that when I decided the colors. It will be mainly white and orange with the motherboard being blue.


----------



## Farmer Boe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> New Direct CU III Cooler


Hey Malik, can you take a photo of the same angle but a more upright stance? Rig looks so sick!!!!!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Guy's i need some advice...Do you think a Blue, orange and white theme would look alright? I bought all of my current water cooled stuff and sleeved all of my cables orange to fit with my previous board and of course it went bad so now I got a blue msi board. Only blue that will be seen would be the motherboard.


miami dolphin colors? aqua/teal blue, orange and white..
ive got the paracord for sleeving for that scheme..

airdeano


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moolers*
> 
> Can you fit a 180mm PSU (Corsair HX850) in the Core 1000?
> Cheers,
> Moo


Yes you can. I'm using a HX750 in mine:


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> miami dolphin colors? aqua/teal blue, orange and white..
> ive got the paracord for sleeving for that scheme..
> airdeano


Can you get any pictures of that paracord? And did u see my post about your window on your case?


----------



## Clockdripdoor

Has anyone been able to mount Noctua's NF-P14 FLX fans in the front of an Arc Midi? I tried to search the thread but I gave up.


----------



## FDNFP14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfast*
> 
> Has anyone been able to mount Noctua's NF-P14 FLX fans in the front of an Arc Midi? I tried to search the thread but I gave up.


Haha.... I knew I had posted this somewhere.... 








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> All you have to do is get 2 self tapping screws for each fan the same size as the fan mount screws. Attach the 140mm extensions to the nf-p14 then place them in the front fan mounts. Two of the mount holes will line up with a small piece of plastic sticking out of the cases fan mount. The other 2 will line up with a flat circular piece of plastic. Just screw the self tapping screws into the latter (the flat circular piece of plastic) and the fans are stable.
> Sorry for the confusing description. Should have taken pics as I was doing it.


And the photo:


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Haha.... I knew I had posted this somewhere....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the photo:


FYI: You can follow the links in my sig for add your system information to yours!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Can you get any pictures of that paracord? And did u see my post about your window on your case?


yes i can:

 

yes, i saw it and we can work s'muptin' out..
PM me your location and i'll see what weekend day i can cut-up a panel..

airdeano

on another note:
here is some spy photos on a ground up midi mod..
a lot of reference and measurements.. rough ideas.

 

 

 

now i gotta get outta here before someone catches me snapping pix.. c'ya!

airdeano


----------



## corysti

Wow looks interesting. I actually thought about doing that same setup with my current build except that they would be vertical and I would put two cut outs on each side and put some nice rad grills on the two side panels to make it clean. I still may do it since my current watercooled build is up in the air. I've taken the thing apart like 10 times because I know it could look better.

anyhow i turned both drive bays the same way.


----------



## sherlock

Fan Mod on my R4, 4X TB Vegas Duo & 2X TY-143 for my PH-TC14PE. I will test around to see if I can SLI with acceptable temp without the side fan, if so I might invest in a window panel as these LEDs are looking pretty good.


----------



## Moolers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Yes you can. I'm using a HX750 in mine:


Cheers MiiX, good to know I dont need to replace my PSU!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moolers*
> 
> Cheers MiiX, good to know I dont need to replace my PSU!


No problem







Tell me if you need to know something else, I can help you out with measurements if needed. Dont ask about the HDD/SSD frame as I dont use it







Mounted my SSD on the 5.25" holes


----------



## Moolers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> No problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tell me if you need to know something else, I can help you out with measurements if needed. Dont ask about the HDD/SSD frame as I dont use it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted my SSD on the 5.25" holes


The PSU was my only concern but if you know the best CPU cooler that fits in the Core 1000 that would be very helpful, thanks.


----------



## MiiX

Im using my H50 at the moment in push/pull config. So most watercooling 1x120mm radiator sets will be fine if you dont have an awsome long GPU.
Also the Noctua NH-C14 will fit inside, with both or one fan.

I reccomend a fan in the rear also in the door if you got a high-end system in there. I use my GTX580 lightning from MSI and an overclocked 1090T CPU







brings some heat to the air, and the only exhaust fan in the rear 92mm


----------



## mironccr345

Spoiler: Acool!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> yes i can:
> 
> yes, i saw it and we can work s'muptin' out..
> PM me your location and i'll see what weekend day i can cut-up a panel..
> airdeano
> on another note:
> here is some spy photos on a ground up midi mod..
> a lot of reference and measurements.. rough ideas.
> 
> 
> 
> now i gotta get outta here before someone catches me snapping pix.. c'ya!
> airdeano





Wow, you sir just game me an Idea. It looks like the PSU cables have no room, but the idea is great!


----------



## doyll

Just finished modding my R2. All case fans are now Thermalright TY-140 151x141x26.5mm fans.
Pulled the stock front and bottom mounts out.
Drilled out pop-rivets holding HDD cage in.
Mounted 2x TY-140 in to front panel using Velcro tape between fans and fan face to case front.
Re-mounted HDD cage and used some cheapo 6" x 9" pound store scouring pads for front filters. Only had green ones but pound store has white and grey so will be changing them








Mounted back fan on back using rubber screws/silicone mounts.

Will get some pics up tomorrow.


----------



## sherlock

RMAed the my volt hungry CPU for a replacement from Intel coming soon. During the wait time before cross shipping arrives I put the Drive Cage back in to accommodate my new 2TB HDD, moved my back mounted SSD there as well. This made the overall cableing look a bit better.

p.s Intalled the SLI, while back panel SSD sounded like a brilliant idea it was more sizzle than steak: Having to route SATA power & data cable back there made cable management a pain.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> RMAed the my volt hungry CPU for a replacement from Intel coming soon. During the wait time before cross shipping arrives I put the Drive Cage back in to accommodate my new 2TB HDD, moved my back mounted SSD there as well. This made the overall cableing look a bit better.
> p.s Intalled the SLI, while back panel SSD sounded like a brilliant idea it was more sizzle than steak: *Having to route SATA power & data cable back there made cable management a pain.*


Buy/make some extensions?


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Buy/make some extensions?


Nah, not worth it now that I need the drive cage for HDD anyway. Plus you can only mount/unmount with screws and with the motherboard removed. Had they supplied *3M Mounting tape* instead of designing these screw mounts for SSDs I would have been much happier.


----------



## doyll

R2 with TY-140 front intake fans
Velcro tape didn't stay stuck to fans.







That's why you can see the little 19mm wood block under fan.







So now I need to figure out what to make a mounting plate (1-2mm thick 400x150-160mm) out of to fit in front of metal case front. Then cut 2x octagonal holes with 4 sides 40mm and 4 side 65mm (40mm sides with holes on 105mm centers to mount fans) Drill holes in pattern to match stock fan mount bracket mounting screws too. Sure wish the Velcro had worked


----------



## dbterp

Can i fit a 280mm rad w/ one set of fans in the top of the r4 by offsetting it (or just drilling holes in the top)? I have a sabertooth z77 and dominator platinums.


----------



## Diesel Phreak

NewEgg has the Arc Midi $20 off with promo code EMCJNNE34 plus free shipping. Brings it too $69.99 plus free shipping. I think i'm gonna take advantage of this and snatch one up. Promo code is only good til 10/8. Getem while you can.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diesel Phreak*
> 
> NewEgg has the Arc Midi $20 off with promo code EMCJNNE34 plus free shipping. Brings it too $69.99 plus free shipping. I think i'm gonna take advantage of this and snatch one up. Promo code is only good til 10/8. Getem while you can.


if only the would do the same with the arc mini...


----------



## K4IKEN

Yea I wish They had that deal going when I was case shopping.. Definitely could have saved me a ton of money, but I love my R4 so its all good.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yea I wish They had that deal going when I was case shopping.. Definitely could have saved me a ton of money, but I love my R4 so its all good.


If they had that deal for a White Midi I would have so jumped on it, but they don't so I "settled" for a white R4 and I am pretty happy with it.


----------



## monoLab

Got me a Define R4!





Pardon the crappy cell phone pics and bad lighting...

and my stock AMD cooler -- goin water cooling for the first time shortly


----------



## waylo88

Picked up an Arc Midi from that Newegg sale. Cant wait to switch from my gaudy Lanboy Air.


----------



## senna89

Arc midi front panel is full plastic ?

or brushed metal outside and plastic inside ?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Arc midi front panel is full plastic ?
> or brushed metal outside and plastic inside ?


Full Plastic.
But the look is outstanding (for plastic) IMO


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Hi All,

Just a quick update on my Define R4. I have started cutting my own window Fractal are taking forever to release theirs in the UK and I find more satisfaction in getting the exact shape I want.



Apologies for the messy build area! The window was cut with a angle grinder and then filed back to a smooth(ish) edge, this will then be covered with U channeled rubber. The holes you can see are for M3 bolts to go through which will give a tough fixing for the plexi glass!

I am still waiting on some final parts to arrive before fitting the plexi glass but it was reasonably easy to drill with a normal metal drill bit. I have also place L.E.D strips on the inside of the window panel to light the entire case this is connected to a USB connector on the top right of the case and is well hidden when the panel is fitted but allows for the panel to be removed for maintenance! Finally I have added white L.E.D lights around the power button, the blue didn't fit the colour scheme!!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAnticitizen1*
> 
> Hi All,
> Just a quick update on my Define R4. I have started cutting my own window Fractal are taking forever to release theirs in the UK and I find more satisfaction in getting the exact shape I want.


congrats on the self-mod! wasnt that difficult was it? apart from filing (time consuming)
its pretty easy, isn't it?

airdeano


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> congrats on the self-mod! wasnt that difficult was it? apart from filing (time consuming)
> its pretty easy, isn't it?
> airdeano


No it wasn't difficult.. just slightly nerve racking taking the grinder to a brand new case! but I had decided i could purchase the new side panel if things went wrong lol Just took a slow and steady pace!


----------



## K4IKEN

What size is the power button led?


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> What size is the power button led?


That is the original the actual button is 22mm then you have the L.E.D ring around the outside, all I did was remove the blue L.E.D and replace it with White.. My camera makes white look kind of blue though :/ There are three L.E.D's lighting that button now and they draw power from the fan controller on the inside of the door.


----------



## cgb84

Hey guys what measurements did you guys use to make a full acrlyic side panel for the Arc midi?


----------



## sjparker

Didn't know if this has been mentioned before but e-mailed Fractal Design regarding a Window'd version release date in the UK:

"Many thanks for your enquiry on the R4 with window side panel. We plan to have the Window side panels in stock in the UK by mid-November.

Please could you look at our partner then such as Ebuyer where you will be able to buy"


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjparker*
> 
> Didn't know if this has been mentioned before but e-mailed Fractal Design regarding a Window'd version release date in the UK:
> "Many thanks for your enquiry on the R4 with window side panel. We plan to have the Window side panels in stock in the UK by mid-November.
> 
> Please could you look at our partner then such as Ebuyer where you will be able to buy"


I thought they were originally set to be released at the end of September/beginning of October?


----------



## dbterp

the fractal nodes 304 and 605 are being released right now in the US. i was almost certain i would buy an R4. Now its up in the air. guess i will wait to see reviews


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> here is some spy photos on a ground up midi mod..
> a lot of reference and measurements.. rough ideas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> airdeano


Like your idea with rad placement I think I'll steal it for my future wc build.


----------



## DJKAY

Fractal Node 304


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=75056&vpn=Node%20304&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1382


and Node 605


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=75057&vpn=Node%20605&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1382


are in stock at NCIX. And they got a special offer for today.


----------



## corysti

I would be a good size of tubing for the R4? I want decent size tubing so I can make good tight bends with but not where it fills up my case with tubing. I don't really want really small tubing either....Whats a good normal size tubing everyone uses?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Whats a good normal size tubing everyone uses?


i use 7/16" hose on 1/2" barbs.. tight fit no clamps, if thats not safe enough
then opt for the 1/2" x 5/8" or 1/2" x 3/4" hose for compression fittings. a lil
more costly, but not many have complaints on leaks (although they can leak).

if thats too beefy, the fall-back is 3/8" tubing. sometimes the fatter hose
can complicate some routing.. but on 5/8" OD i havent yet..

airdeano


----------



## doyll

Node 304 & 605 look nice. Wish the 605 was at least 25mm taller so better downflow coolers would fit... like Phanteks TC14CS or Noctua C14









or better yet 40mm taller so full size towers would fit.









The added height would also allow for a full size optical bay.


----------



## solsamurai

Love all three of those new cases. Wish I had a reason/money to build another system!


----------



## tensionz

I can't choose between the R4 and Midi, can you guys help me out? What made you choose one over the other, and is there a window version for the Midi (or would an R4 side panel work?) Thanks in advance, will be getting one of these cases asap once I can figure out what I want.


----------



## dbterp

midi is better for watercooling and airflow in general, although you could do a little modding to to get some good watercooling in an r4. it has a side window, but i think its purchased separately. R4 is better at silence. I think the r4 definitely looks better. Depends on what you want for your system.


----------



## jcamp6336

i bought the R4 for the White color, the window, and the silence. Plus i like the shinier finish it has compared to the Midis and the black R4s


----------



## Tslm

The R4 looks so good. Fixes every annoyance I have with the R3. I just can't bring myself to tear my rig apart and re cable everything and ugh


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Love all three of those new cases. Wish I had a reason/money to build another system!


tell me about it man, i love my build, but i catch myself getting bored of it a bit, i mean i just love working on my pc and when its done its just kinda sad


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> tell me about it man, i love my build, but i catch myself getting bored of it a bit, i mean i just love working on my pc and when its done its just kinda sad


Yep, lol. When I can afford it someday I'll probably have 3-4 systems in my house...that is, when I finally get a house someday.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tensionz*
> 
> I can't choose between the R4 and Midi, can you guys help me out? What made you choose one over the other, and is there a window version for the Midi (or would an R4 side panel work?) Thanks in advance, will be getting one of these cases asap once I can figure out what I want.


The only factor that lead me to pick the R4 over the midi was the price and the removable drive cages. Sure, you could just drill the rivets on the bottom cage for the Midi, but what if I just happened to need those cages back one day you know. I'm not much of a modder so having this so easily done was great for me.

I feel like the R4 is a great case for WC'ing too. I'm just waiting for someone with great ideas to come out with a sick build on it.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> The only factor that lead me to pick the R4 over the midi was the price and the removable drive cages. Sure, you could just drill the rivets on the bottom cage for the Midi, but what if I just happened to need those cages back one day you know. I'm not much of a modder so having this so easily done was great for me.
> I feel like the R4 is a great case for WC'ing too. I'm just waiting for someone with great ideas to come out with a sick build on it.


Don't really think you can fit a radiator+ fans up top on the R4 as easily as the midi since the 2X 120 mm fan screw hole is are a lot closer to the center(which means the motherboard will be in the way . You could barely fit H100's 25mm radiator in there but no room for fans or vice versa. With some custom kit and a lot of modding work it can be done or you can get single 120 rad solution like H80, but I wouldn't say it is a "great" case for WC-> A Great WC case such as midi wouldn't need one bit of custom mod to mount a custom kit, let alone cookie-cutters like H100.


----------



## K4IKEN

That's why I said someone with great ideas.. I know you can't fit much on the top, but a 280 can fit in the front with minor modification, and a 240 should fit easily on the bottom with a cut out.

Like I said, I'm just waiting for someone to come along and mod the ish out of the R4.


----------



## LazarusIV

Hey airdeano, quick question for you and I can't remember if I've asked it before so my apologies if I have... On the Arc Midi, can a 140.2 thick or thin radiator fit in the top with push fans or will it interfere with the mobo too much? I know I can fit one in the front after I take out the HDD cage but I'm wondering if I can get one up top too, or if I'll just use a 120.2 up there instead. I know it's not a HUGE difference but I'd like to if I can. Thanks a bunch, I appreciate it!

- Laz


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> That's why I said someone with great ideas.. I know you can't fit much on the top, but a 280 can fit in the front with minor modification, and a 240 should fit easily on the bottom with a cut out.
> Like I said, I'm just waiting for someone to come along and mod the ish out of the R4.


Now Where would you put the Fans?? the Radiator would fit with long enough tubbing, but there is no space for fans to be mounted without relocating the Drive Cages(more modding). If a case need serious Modding to Custom WC it is not a "great" WC case,







a "great" WC case is something like Midi that don't need tools heavy modding to fit thick radiator+fans inside.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> On the Arc Midi, can a 140.2 thick or thin radiator fit in the top with push fans or will it interfere with the mobo too much? I know I can fit one in the front after I take out the HDD cage but I'm wondering if I can get one up top too, or if I'll just use a 120.2 up there instead.


_(for reference i like to keep the temperatures below 60° with ambient 30°)_

with no modding, the 280 rad will be hard to fit in the roof. the optibay is in the way, the thickness
will lend to interference on the motherboard (no offset). with that said, the roof riddled with mesh
allows some shifting to accomodate but depending on mobo selection there maybe tolerance issues
still. without a total remake or make-over of the roof the 280 rad is a tough cookie for clearence
of mobo, mostly.

i like the 280 for both positions so you can use the same fan, but again the tanks on the rads are
the clearence problems. even the 420 gets really tight fast with no optibays.

thickness... hummm thats a hard-one to field. i prefer the 60mm, fall-back to 45mm. in my experience
the 60mm alpha, HW-SR1, are the best for performance and low speed (sub1200rpm) rads.
XSPC doesnt have a RX280 just the EX and the fan speeds gotta be 1600+ to make them work.

if you are going for all that, i'd move to the 360 (my trend) with a lil roof modding and use the 280
for the front intake for a massive overclock and SLI/X-fire support. a fall-back to 240 roof and 280
front intake can still handle a hard CPU overclock and moderate to stock GPU clocking.

hope this doesnt muddy the water, too much!

airdeano


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> _(for reference i like to keep the temperatures below 60° with ambient 30°)_
> with no modding, the 280 rad will be hard to fit in the roof. the optibay is in the way, the thickness
> will lend to interference on the motherboard (no offset). with that said, the roof riddled with mesh
> allows some shifting to accomodate but depending on mobo selection there maybe tolerance issues
> still. without a total remake or make-over of the roof the 280 rad is a tough cookie for clearence
> of mobo, mostly.
> i like the 280 for both positions so you can use the same fan, but again the tanks on the rads are
> the clearence problems. even the 420 gets really tight fast with no optibays.
> thickness... hummm thats a hard-one to field. i prefer the 60mm, fall-back to 45mm. in my experience
> the 60mm alpha, HW-SR1, are the best for performance and low speed (sub1200rpm) rads.
> XSPC doesnt have a RX280 just the EX and the fan speeds gotta be 1600+ to make them work.
> if you are going for all that, i'd move to the 360 (my trend) with a lil roof modding and use the 280
> for the front intake for a massive overclock and SLI/X-fire support. a fall-back to 240 roof and 280
> front intake can still handle a hard CPU overclock and moderate to stock GPU clocking.
> hope this doesnt muddy the water, too much!
> airdeano


No man, I appreciate the in-depth info. It'll be a lil bit before I can afford to do this but eventually I'll be planning to upgrade to my "Next Upgrade" build in my sig. I debated between an i7 3820 and an i5 3570K for a lil while but with some of Intel's future plans now in the open I think I'll choose X79 with the budget proc and then I can upgrade that later. I don't upgrade my comp nearly as frequently as I used to so I gotta plan these upgrades out a bit better when I can do them. So I've been tentatively planning on the i7 3820 with the Apogee Drive II cpu block and 35X pump combo, a cylinder res, and probably the 120.2 UT60 up top. I don't particularly want to mod my case a whole lot and I still use an optical drive (I know, old fashioned) but it's nice to know that in the future I can do that. I'll keep my SLI GTX 470s on air for a while yet (putting them under water is still super expensive), I'll eventually upgrade to one GTX 680 or maybe even the 7XX series later on and put that under water. I don't game on my computer as much as I used to, unfortunately. What it really boils down to is when I can upgrade and how quickly I can get those upgrades under water, key issue being funds.

It may be a bit silly to think about all this stuff this far in advance but it's a pretty large expenditure and I really like doing my research beforehand (way beforehand?). That way when I take the plunge I'm much more confident and informed.

BTW, I also have some Bgears B-Blaster 140s and they are truly awesome. I bought them with the intention of using them with rads later on. Great fans, if a tad noisy at full blast. Partly my fault, I need to go in there some time and isolate them a bit better. Thanks again for the advice man!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Now Where would you put the Fans?? the Radiator would fit with long enough tubbing, but there is no space for fans to be mounted without relocating the Drive Cages(more modding). If a case need serious Modding to Custom WC it is not a "great" WC case,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a "great" WC case is something like Midi that don't need tools heavy modding to fit thick radiator+fans inside.


Bottom line is a 240 and at least 2, 120mm rads can fit inside with no modifications whatsoever. Any case that can fit that much is a good WC case, in my opinion of course. For the average user that should be plenty of rad cooling. If you need more, you're probably looking into full sized towers to fit it all, or you're just gonna end up modding your current case anyway, and that's a whole other ballgame because the possibilities are endless haha.

Fractal did a great job designing both cases and they're equally awesome in my book.


----------



## nerdybeat

Ughhh is anyone else waiting for this awesome Fractal fan controller like I am?!?!? It would look so perfect on my case. It was announced soooo long ago.. and I know how long it can take for Fractal to have an announced product available in the US... siighhh


----------



## Seid Dark

Is it possible to mount Antec Kuhler 620 to the front in Arc Midi, with cable ties or somehow else? I sure wish Arc wouldn't have those stupid plastic clips that only fit 140mm fans.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Is it possible to mount Antec Kuhler 620 to the front in Arc Midi, with cable ties or somehow else? I sure wish Arc wouldn't have those stupid plastic clips that only fit 140mm fans.


With zip ties- easily, the question is what for when there are four spare places in the cases specifically for that.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> With zip ties- easily, the question is what for when there are four spare places in the cases specifically for that.


I've heard that you getter temps when Kuhler 620 is installed as intake, it gets cool air from outside rather than already hot air from inside case. Also currently I can't install my Gentle Typhoon fans in push/pull to Kuhler because then side panel that has 180mm Air Penetrator fan doesn't fit anymore. In front the cooler wouldn't block the side fan.


----------



## Pao

Has anyone with an Arc Mini replaced the stock Fractal Design fans and achieved any actual or notable temperature drops? Non water cooling, as I'm sure a better static pressure fan would help the rad heads.

Just curious!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pao*
> 
> Has anyone with an Arc Mini replaced the stock Fractal Design fans and achieved any actual or notable temperature drops? Non water cooling, as I'm sure a better static pressure fan would help the rad heads.
> Just curious!


*---- these are BGears with white painted fan blades*

i have. i replaced the front OE fractals (late-model cases have R2) with BGears B-Blaster
140mm fans. @ 12volts they are wind noisey. undervolt to 7volt and they are quiet. if you
have a blower style GPU with a reference design cooler, a floor fan works well to feed the
GPU. one of the fractals there will be fine. if you have an aftermarket style cooler on the
GPU, the side fan really helps, but there is no filter to aid in keeping the case clean inside.
a Deci 140 or silverstone 140 filter works well, but the fan needs some static pressure to
overcome the flow detereration. for the roof the fans can be tricky. depending on HSF used,
you want to be careful not to get a too powerful fan to steal the needed air for the HSF.
that'll have to be install, test and retest work.

airdeano


----------



## corysti

how long does it take for customer support to reply to email? im needing some support


----------



## Derek1387

Anyone know when the Adjust 108 fan controller is coming out? I cannot find it AYWHERE


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> how long does it take for customer support to reply to email? im needing some support


Agreed, i emailed them Wednesday last week, and still nothing


----------



## corysti

I do know the last time i contacted them about something they told me after 2 week of waiting "Im not sure if someone has helped you yet or not"


----------



## Derek1387

I just posted on their facebook page... maybe that will get their attention


----------



## corysti

which one did you post on they have like 5 or 6 of them.


----------



## Derek1387

Fractal design NA


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> how long does it take for customer support to reply to email? im needing some support


usually ryan emails the next morning, but it does depends on the support needed.

airdeano


----------



## Behrouz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1387*
> 
> Anyone know when the Adjust 108 fan controller is coming out? I cannot find it AYWHERE


Ive been waiting for what feels like eternity for the 108 and windowed side panels for my arc midi to be released.


----------



## Nuzart

Order my Node 304 and everything else I need for my build









http://www.overclock.net/t/1285564/first-time-water-cooling-node-project


----------



## waylo88

Got everything switched over from my Lanboy Air into my Midi today. Loving this case.


----------



## Clockdripdoor

What kind of LEDs does Fractal use for the Power LED in the Arc Midi? I am asking because I pulled mine out and the LED is flat.

I am not sure if it is a special LED or an LED that has had its plastic lens ground flat.


----------



## dbterp

heres an unboxing of the fractal design node 304 by linus, enjoy


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbterp*
> 
> heres an unboxing of the fractal design node 304 by linus, enjoy


I´m so excited about this case but I think an ITX rig is not in my buged -__-
Love to be a student


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> here is some spy photos on a ground up midi mod..
> a lot of reference and measurements.. rough ideas.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i gotta get outta here before someone catches me snapping pix.. c'ya!
> airdeano


Any updates on this? Are you push/pulling on both rads? Sandwiching a 120 in the middle? Are you going to modify the motherboard tray to do this?

I'm very curious about this.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Could be an odd question but... I'm looking to darken up the window on my R4 a tad bit. I've seen the smoked acrylic panels that people have made and I think it looks awesome. But I don't have the tools/skills to do that. What if I were to get a small roll of window tint (like for a car) and applied it over the window? Think it'll work okay? Or are there any other cheap and better alternatives to this?


----------



## dbterp

hey guys, i want to watercool my rig. the only thing holding me back from pulling the trigger on the r4 is if i can fit a 40mm 240 rad plus a single pair of 25mm fans in the top somehow. i know i can install the rad to the front but that looks kinda ugly to me, and im not too high on the arc midi. can anyone confirm if it will fit somehow perhaps with an offset?


----------



## bortoloj

Little mod it's not perfect but i like it


----------



## AbdullahG

That looks really nice! What fans are those?


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> That looks really nice! What fans are those?


Silverstone AP121 red led


----------



## CooperJS

That looks really good man good job









Cooper


----------



## vangsfreaken

core 1000-owners! may i borrow your attention for a little moment?







i was just curious... will a nh-d14 fit in the core 1000? possibly with 3 fans? i know it's probably mentioned somewhere in the thread, but it's simply to long to check







i am currently considering purchasing one just to practice my modding-skills, but won't bother if it won't fit, as case, cooler and motherboard is just to much to replace at the same time









also, i currently own a r3 that i am not using due to some minor damages, may i join the club anyways?


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> core 1000-owners! may i borrow your attention for a little moment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was just curious... will a nh-d14 fit in the core 1000? possibly with 3 fans? i know it's probably mentioned somewhere in the thread, but it's simply to long to check
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am currently considering purchasing one just to practice my modding-skills, but won't bother if it won't fit, as case, cooler and motherboard is just to much to replace at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, i currently own a r3 that i am not using due to some minor damages, may i join the club anyways?


It may fit without the side panel 120mm fan in place (I believe the max height in 165mm without the fan).


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> It may fit without the side panel 120mm fan in place (I believe the max height in 165mm without the fan).


sounds good! i was planning on replacing the sidepanel anyways







can anyone confirm this?


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> sounds good! i was planning on replacing the sidepanel anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can anyone confirm this?


Might actually be around 160mm max height (tight fit), but I guess my camera taking skill at certain angles may distort things:





My cooler height is 130mm.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Might actually be around 160mm max height (tight fit), but I guess my camera taking skill at certain angles may distort things:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My cooler height is 130mm.


oh god, this is now extremely tempting







just gotta wait til i've sold my H80 so i got some money


----------



## Blizlake

Someone said that he could fit a 212+ in there with the heatpipes touching the sidepanel, so that'd be your max height. Something like the Megahalems might fit in there.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizlake*
> 
> Someone said that he could fit a 212+ in there with the heatpipes touching the sidepanel, so that'd be your max height. Something like the Megahalems might fit in there.


aww







no core 1000 for me then, unless anyone can show a pic of a nh-d14 in there... it's 1 mm bigger than the 212+, which is just to much


----------



## Adrenaline

I cant even fit the side fan on my core 1000 my hyper Tx3 Evo's Heatpipes get stuck in the way of the case fan So i had to take it out.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrenaline*
> 
> I cant even fit the side fan on my core 1000 my hyper Tx3 Evo's Heatpipes get stuck in the way of the case fan So i had to take it out.


things are looking bad for my dream, i had even found the perfect motherboard


----------



## Clockdripdoor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfast*
> 
> What kind of LEDs does Fractal use for the Power LED in the Arc Midi? I am asking because I pulled mine out and the LED is flat.
> I am not sure if it is a special LED or an LED that has had its plastic lens ground flat.


Anyone?


----------



## chris ofc

Hey everyone, i made a post a few months ago when my pc was still in progress,
At the moment it's finished.. all of you inspired me allot to get this build done









Specs: i7 920 - 6gb ram - GTX 560TI - 2x 750gb raid 0.

Pics:


----------



## YairKoren

Some more pics of my build , nothing too fancy (3570k 4.3ghz , gtx 460 sli , z77x -ud3 , seasonic 620W , 8G Ram Kingston Hyper Blu


----------



## Jolting

You may want to use a new host for those photos, they take forever to load.

Also what cooler is that?


----------



## YairKoren

Scythe JAPAN MUGEN 3
sorry if it's taking age's to upload , if you have a better website to give me ill be glad.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just finalized my friends build (hopefully)

Going with a 3570K, MSI Z77A-GD55, Corsair LP 16GB, Corsair HX750, Be Quiet Dark Rock PRO 2, Samsung 830 256GB, Seagate 3TB Barracuda and Fractal R4 Black Pearl.

Not sure on the GPU yet though. He wants to use his GTX 295 to start off with but when that dies I'll probably get him to buy a GTX 670 or a 700 series if it lasts that long.

Really looking forward to building it and I'll post some pics when it's finished.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just finalized my friends build (hopefully)
> Going with a 3570K, MSI Z77A-GD55, *Corsair LP 16GB*, Corsair HX750, Be Quiet Dark Rock PRO 2, *Samsung 830 256GB*, Seagate 3TB Barracuda and Fractal R4 Black Pearl.
> Not sure on the GPU yet though. He wants to use his GTX 295 to start off with but when that dies I'll probably get him to buy a GTX 670 or a 700 series if it lasts that long.
> Really looking forward to building it and I'll post some pics when it's finished.


Does he really need 16GB?? 8GB is plenty for everything you need, 16GB is for virtual machines or heavy Photoshop work.

Samsung 840 & 840 Pro are available for per-order now and official release is in a week, something to consider.

Dark Rock Pro 2 is decent, but not the best air cooler, consider PH-TC14PE/NH-D14


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

He uses Photoshop loads and I wanted to make sure he had enough. I forgot that the 840 is coming out, thanks for reminding me. I wanted to keep things looking nice, I think the Noctua fans are ugly and the company that I'm getting the parts from only stock the red Phanteks and that won't go with the Blue/Black colour scheme so I settled for the Dark Rock Pro 2. Thanks for the recommendations though.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> He uses Photoshop loads and I wanted to make sure he had enough. I forgot that the 840 is coming out, thanks for reminding me. I wanted to keep things looking nice, I think the Noctua fans are ugly and the company that I'm getting the parts from only stock the red Phanteks and that won't go with the Blue/Black colour scheme so I settled for the Dark Rock Pro 2. Thanks for the recommendations though.


That's all good. Although If you plan on heavy overclocking for him(4.5Ghz+) I rcommend a Gigabyte Board(UD3H) over MSI, Gigabyte & Z77 ASUS uses digital VRMs, MSI and ASRock uses Analog VRMs, having better VRMs should reduce your power consumption and Vcore required to stablize a high OC.

MSI also don't have Vcore Offset-OC support which means the CPU will be kept at max Vcore at all times regardless of the load.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> That's all good. Although If you plan on heavy overclocking for him(4.5Ghz+) I rcommend a Gigabyte Board(UD3H) over MSI, Gigabyte & Z77 ASUS uses digital VRMs, MSI and ASRock uses Analog VRMs, having better VRMs should reduce your power consumption and Vcore required to stablize a high OC.
> MSI also don't have Vcore Offset-OC support which means the CPU will be kept at max Vcore at all times regardless of the load.


Thanks for the advice. I'll replace that with an Asus P8Z77-V instead then.


----------



## ben ten

Kinda hard to see, but it is an R4








http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/304351_4775729071042_438589952_n.jpg


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ben ten*
> 
> Kinda hard to see, but it is an R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/304351_4775729071042_438589952_n.jpg


Was that a H100??, Where did you mount the Rad?


Mind taking some picture with better lightning?


----------



## Nuzart

Anyone got a Node 304 set up going?


----------



## Col5

Can't see much benefit to the upgrade to th R4 from R3 myself , apart from more expensive and the new one is too big .

Same case but bigger , forget the removable cage the airflow is fine with the slim R3


----------



## ben ten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Was that a H100??, Where did you mount the Rad?
> 
> Mind taking some picture with better lightning?


It is front mounted actually, might take a pic later this today


----------



## Col5

Nice fans man , will stick with the noctua myself no choice they released the corsairs after I spent £100 on fans haha

The blue rings would of looked great in my rig .


----------



## ben ten

I see, I'm actually real happy with those SP120s. After mounting two of them in the front of H100's Rad and keeping the OEM ones in the back as a push/pull config I made 4,9Ghz at 1,37v at the lowest. The temps were from 73-83 degrees. Pretty happy about it, you can see a preview below.


----------



## thecool85

Anyone know if the corsair liquid cooling setups will work in the node 605?


----------



## K4IKEN

I accidently broke the second the second LED strip I had the in roof of the case. Ordered another and it should be here Wednesday, I'll update when I get it.

Also thinking of ditching that H50, but I'm still on the fence about what I want to get to replace it.


----------



## sectionsone

Here is my new project for demo









not finished yet please give advice


----------



## solsamurai

Looks gorgeous so far!


----------



## CooperJS

That looks amazing!!! Any chance of more pics?

Cooper


----------



## Borarah

Nice, looks very "similar" to Malik's but...


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> Nice, looks very "similar" to Malik's but...


I was thinking the exact same thing..


----------



## AbdullahG

More builds that look amazing are fine in my book.


----------



## sectionsone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Looks gorgeous so far!


Thank you brothe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CooperJS*
> 
> 
> That looks amazing!!! Any chance of more pics?
> Cooper


Thank you bro, i will update any picture
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> Nice, looks very "similar" to Malik's but...


Yups, because i get inspired from the malik build. But i will make a different look. Thank you


----------



## Col5

Ok not the best rig of all time or photos of

IMAG0130.jpg 996k .jpg file


IMAG0135.jpg 1076k .jpg file


IMAG0130.jpg 996k .jpg file


IMAG0133.jpg 1102k .jpg file
 my R3 , but i like it


----------



## gubbin

Just finished my Z77 Mpower-Arc Midi

Thanks for all the inspiration. I'm loving it so far







I'm still waiting on the materials to finish out the 24 pin connector







Other than that it's running like a dream

System Specs
MSI Z77 Mpower
I7 3770K With Corsair H100
16GB Corsair Dominator Platnium 1866
GIGABYTE GTX 670 Windforce
Seasonic X650 Gold PSU
Crucial 256 M4 SSD
WD Black 1TB
Fractal Design Arc Midi Case


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gubbin*


Damn, that looks nice! Especially with those dominator platinum's


----------



## Nuzart

I just received my Node 304 today and some other parts







You can see the build log so far here


----------



## 72bluenova

Hello all, please convince me as to why I should sell my 550D and buy an R4


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> Hello all, please convince me as to why I should sell my 550D and buy an R4



Front 2X 140mm instead of weak sauce 2X 120 1100rpm
Top front fan is higher = more air flow to the CPU area
More HDD cages
More Back panel space
More USB ports
Fan Controller
More Steel, Less Plastic
Was going to add you can go Black/White/Grey but since you bought a 550D you probably prefer black. Given that you bought a 550D you probably aren't into windowed side panel either.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> Hello all, please convince me as to why I should sell my 550D and buy an R4


mainly cooling options. the corsair case is a good case, but limited on options
in cooling. if you are a set and forget kinda person, no need in updating. but
if you are a gamer, enthusiast, or look for the nth in cooling the R4/Midi
are a better choice case.

many have tried to custom loop the 550D and its just not fesible to run the
tight rads and limit the hardware due to the shortness of cooling. as the R4/Midi
are rich in cooling options and still stay a quiet case for no one to hear.

airdeano


----------



## 72bluenova

Thank you for convincing me! Anyone looking for a 550D? hahaha

I have to say, I replaced the fans with TY-140 rear and 2 AP-15 for the front. All controlled with the lamptron fc. i do like the 550D, but...

I was considering the white R4 as well. A change like this is not that bad in life i guess. Even the R4 with window! As far as WC, I am not there yet, I don't do any OC, but that does not mean I won't in the future. I will try and sell the 550D 1st locally. If it sells then I will be purchasing the R4.


----------



## corysti

If u lived locally I'd trade ya....I like a challenge lol


----------



## Moneo

I may as well post here well I still own my Define Mini, I'm upgrading to a 650D in the next few months.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> If u lived locally I'd trade ya....I like a challenge lol


many have tried for the monster cooling solution for that case and you
can see 'em in the marketplace or they just settle and move to another case.
i like the look, and many swear by 'em and as well swear at 'em.
doors are for keeping things in or out not kinda-sorta.

airdeano


----------



## DJKAY

Fractal design is going to release a PcGameshardware Version of the R4

It´s going to lose the top mounted fans and its`s interrior is going to be FULL black!
This is only the german site but I think you will find your way throw by google and so on....
http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Gehaeuse-Hardware-213436/News/Fractal-Design-Define-R4-PCGH-Edition-mit-vielen-Verbesserungen-Anzeige-1030701/
I really like this








So here is a little preview


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Fractal design is going to release a PcGameshardware Version of the R4
> It´s going to lose the top mounted fans and its`s interrior is going to be FULL black!
> This is only the german site but I think you will find your way throw by google and so on....
> http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Gehaeuse-Hardware-213436/News/Fractal-Design-Define-R4-PCGH-Edition-mit-vielen-Verbesserungen-Anzeige-1030701/
> I really like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is a little preview


Interesting, They seem to have figured out without the ability to mount a 240 radiator+fan in most cases(due to fan mounts too close to the Motherboard panel) that the Top fan mounts are totally useless. Too bad it is all black and I already have a white R4 otherwise I might be trying to get of these, Do these come with Windowed Side Panels?

I Feel like for R5 they should just use the Top fan layout of the Midi-> Shift the Fan mounts closer to the side to better accommodate 240mm radiator+fan or Go Switch 810 style and add 1-1.5" to the Height for a Water Cooling compartment, The Side Panel fan mount could be reworked to like what Corsair 550D uses-> A Pop-off panel with Magnetic dust filters. A lot of "Silent" Cases now a days copies the Define Series in some way, I think it is about time for Fractal to copy back.


----------



## Ymac

define R4



































for the whole gallery:


http://imgur.com/a


----------



## 72bluenova

That looks awesome. I would change the cable ties to black so they blend with the cables, and you do not see them.

This makes me want to buy the R4 even more.


----------



## Ymac

I know, currently I didn't find this kind.
I'm planing on MDPC sleeve the whole case (whiteout the PSU) and change the zip-ties.
I got the case on a good deal, less then 100 bucks








I moved from an HAF 932 and it is so much better! in everything, build quality, easy installation etc...


----------



## gubbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Fractal design is going to release a PcGameshardware Version of the R4
> It´s going to lose the top mounted fans and its`s interrior is going to be FULL black!
> This is only the german site but I think you will find your way throw by google and so on....
> http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Gehaeuse-Hardware-213436/News/Fractal-Design-Define-R4-PCGH-Edition-mit-vielen-Verbesserungen-Anzeige-1030701/
> I really like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is a little preview


Of course they come out with all black after I build one for a friend and painted all the drive rails and slot covers!









Anyone have an ETA on the window side panel for the Arc Midi? Newegg and Amazon both are pretty clueless about it.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Fractal design is going to release a PcGameshardware Version of the R4
> It´s going to lose the top mounted fans and its`s interrior is going to be FULL black!
> This is only the german site but I think you will find your way throw by google and so on....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcgameshardware.de/Gehaeuse-Hardware-213436/News/Fractal-Design-Define-R4-PCGH-Edition-mit-vielen-Verbesserungen-Anzeige-1030701/
> 
> 
> I really like this
> So here is a little preview
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i dunna know... the upper fans and grill do alot and deleting them bastardizes the air-flow pattern.
especially, jacking a H100 in the front.. now the rear exhaust is more critical. and sucking all the
cases heated air across the MOSFET can't do a whole lotta good..

airdeano


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> i dunna know... the upper fans and grill do alot and deleting them bastardizes the air-flow pattern.
> especially, jacking a H100 in the front.. now the rear exhaust is more critical. and sucking all the
> cases heated air across the MOSFET can't do a whole lotta good..
> airdeano


This new model is definately not for H100. It is designed for more standard Front to Back straight airflow based Air cooling imo and make the top look better(they could have gone with the 550D solution for the top/side fan mounts the modular vent system but that probably was too costly for the price point).


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> This new model is definately not for H100. It is designed for more standard Front to Back straight airflow based Air cooling imo and make the top look better(they could have gone with the 550D solution for the top/side fan mounts the modular vent system but that probably was too costly for the price point).


and we get back to why peeps dump the 550D in the first place... lack of water-cooling capatibility..
now strickly air-cooling, no brainer.. deep static pressure and high cfm exhaust fan, carve out the mesh
possible GPU shield.

airdeano


----------



## tambok2012

THIS THING MAY NOT MAKE YOU HAPPY BUT

IM REALLY HAPPY SEEING THIS PICTURE BECAUSE OF THE CABLE MANAGEMENT!
ON THE CORE 1000













































*I DON'T OWN THIS PICTURE*

http://cdn.overclock.net/6/60/602f827f_JQu28843.jpeg


----------



## ambro2k

What's the actual size of the Define Mini? Does anyone have any comparison between the Define Mini and Core 1000, or Define Mini vs Antec 300?
Does anyone have pictures?


----------



## Blizlake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ambro2k*
> 
> What's the actual size of the Define Mini? Does anyone have any comparison between the Define Mini and Core 1000, or Define Mini vs Antec 300?
> Does anyone have pictures?


Send me a PM and I'll see if I can get you a few pics tomorrow. Going out in a min so don't have time tonight. I have both of them sitting here next to me.


----------



## Moneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ambro2k*
> 
> What's the actual size of the Define Mini? Does anyone have any comparison between the Define Mini and Core 1000, or Define Mini vs Antec 300?
> Does anyone have pictures?


I have pictures but not on this computer, I can post them in about 5 hours.


----------



## TSXmike

arc mini should be here on tuesday!


----------



## Moneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> I have pictures but not on this computer, I can post them in about 5 hours.


Here.


----------



## Phishy714

I am going to be getting a Fractal Design R4 here shortly. I will be running MSI 680 lightning's in SLI and I am thinking of using dual Antec Kuhler 620's to cool them. Does anyone know if I will be able to fit BOTH coolers on the front intakes? If not, I will have to settle for putting one on the front intake and the other on the bottom intake. Thanks for the help!


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I am going to be getting a Fractal Design R4 here shortly. I will be running MSI 680 lightning's in SLI and I am thinking of using dual Antec Kuhler 620's to cool them. Does anyone know if I will be able to fit BOTH coolers on the front intakes? If not, I will have to settle for putting one on the front intake and the other on the bottom intake. Thanks for the help!


wwwwwwwwwwwwaaaaaawhat?!?!

dual lightnings on make-shift cooling...
you prolly wont be able to fit both in, due to the overall height is larger than a single 240 rad.

why not just water cool the CPU and air cool the GPU(s). alot cleaner/cooler, less flex line, and
less to worry on malfunctions..
save up for custom loop.. just my







..

airdeano


----------



## SirWooties

How do I take off the front panel on the ARC MINI? It feels like its cemented onto the case. I really want to replace that crappy stock 120mm fan.


----------



## MiiX

Sledge hammer. *joke*

Shouldnt really be that hard with the right tools.


----------



## TSXmike

im almost positve that there are just a few plastic clips that hold the front on...

lemmie take a look..

edit:

no clips... should just pull off. use some force, but be gentle about it.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> wwwwwwwwwwwwaaaaaawhat?!?!
> dual lightnings on make-shift cooling...
> you prolly wont be able to fit both in, due to the overall height is larger than a single 240 rad.
> why not just water cool the CPU and air cool the GPU(s). alot cleaner/cooler, less flex line, and
> less to worry on malfunctions..
> save up for custom loop.. just my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..
> airdeano


Well, air cooling is sort of out of the question considering how loud these can get, specially in a somewhat air-starved Design R4. If anything, the custom water loop would cause MORE worry on malfunctions. While surely a custom water loop would be better looking, I don't see the difference in cooling to be worth the $300+ investment over the $70 for the khulers and brackets. It is kinda silly talking like that considering the two cards I am getting, but still. I already have 1 setup with a single 680 and it has never broken 55C in ANY benchmark I have done or BF3 or anything. While, sure a custom water loop might bring that number down, is it worth the effort and cost and maintenance?

You got it right, though that it would look A WHOLE LOT BETTER, but I am not getting a window in this case, so its not like I will be able to see it.

Thanks for the info though! I might be able to fit them if I turn the rads on their sides - If I get the clearance on both sides, they are the same as a 120mm fan.


----------



## Phishy714

-double post-


----------



## ben ten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> I am going to be getting a Fractal Design R4 here shortly. I will be running MSI 680 lightning's in SLI and I am thinking of using dual Antec Kuhler 620's to cool them. Does anyone know if I will be able to fit BOTH coolers on the front intakes? If not, I will have to settle for putting one on the front intake and the other on the bottom intake. Thanks for the help!


Since H100 fits, and I got it myself. Left I got about 3-5CM of extra space I think it could fit, not sure though


----------



## Drenalin

Seeing some other threads in this post inspired me to clean up my Fractal Define Mini









Here are some before and after shots.

Im happy with the little beast, running a 3570k O/C to 4.3 Ghz with a GTX670 FTW. Temps are much lower after the mod, however id still like to get the GPU running a little cooler under high load, might try applying some good TIM.

Will clean up the back a little more and im not entirely happy with the HDD cabling.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drenalin*
> 
> Seeing some other threads in this post inspired me to clean up my Fractal Define Mini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some before and after shots.
> Im happy with the little beast, running a 3570k O/C to 4.3 Ghz with a GTX670 FTW. Temps are much lower after the mod, however id still like to get the GPU running a little cooler under high load, might try applying some good TIM.
> Will clean up the back a little more and im not entirely happy with the HDD cabling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really good and clean setup, just like it should be with Fractal cases.
For better GPU temps you could try and put it into the lower PCIE slot, may it will help...
Personally I would squeeze the HDD cables throw the back side of the 5,25" bay so it would look a little tidier (don´t know if it will work with your setup but *Dremmel*)








But all in all really good looking.


----------



## ambro2k

Thanks! I'm getting my Define Mini by next month, so I was a little curious about how big it actually was. So, judging by the pictures it's just as big as a Core 3000, am I right?
But anyways, i'll be fitting a Asus Maximus V Gene mobo in there, along with a 3770k CPU and a GTX 590. Going to have a waterloop(just for cpu though) in there, fitting a 240mm rad in the front.

Again, thanks for the pictures!


----------



## corysti

R4 Mini: 19.29" x 8.27" x 15.55"

Core 3000: 18.90" x 7.87" x 16.93"

There you go









But my question is why would you get the R4 mini when you can have the actual R4 for like 20 more bucks...


----------



## Xs1nX

Received a white Define R4 today.

Have spent a good hour trying to get one of the side panels off, it just wont budge at all with as much forced used as I dare to. Do they weld these on ?


----------



## corysti

All you gotta do is take the two thumb screws off and slide the panel towards the rear and it will pop off.


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> All you gotta do is take the two thumb screws off and slide the panel towards the rear and it will pop off.


I have taken side panels off before
















Managed to get one of the panels off with a fair bit of effort. The other not budge despite my best efforts over an hour and with all the reasonable force I could use and with the case in all the orientations I could think of. Going to see if someone else can take it off..


----------



## corysti

Lmao, I was hoping you knew how. The pins at the top could have been bent up during shipping causing it not to slide.


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> Lmao, I was hoping you knew how. The pins at the top could have been bent up during shipping causing it not to slide.


Ive had a look in the case with a torch at the pin things I can see and they look fine to me so I dont know.


----------



## Xs1nX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*
> 
> Ive had a look in the case with a torch at the pin things I can see and they look fine to me so I dont know.


Managed to get the panel off, now it wont go back on properly, probably for the same reason It didn't come off easy in the first place


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> R4 Mini: 19.29" x 8.27" x 15.55"
> Core 3000: 18.90" x 7.87" x 16.93"
> There you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But my question is why would you get the R4 mini when you can have the actual R4 for like 20 more bucks...


Because small cases are awesome. After I pass on my Arc Midi I'm not going to anything larger than a mATX. I had mATX before the Arc and loved it.. but made the stupid mistake to want Crossfire and a soundcard.


----------



## 72bluenova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xs1nX*
> 
> Managed to get the panel off, now it wont go back on properly, probably for the same reason It didn't come off easy in the first place











Call Fractal and see what they do? Can you see what is causing for the side panel to fit correctly? which side?


----------



## gubbin

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drenalin*
> 
> Seeing some other threads in this post inspired me to clean up my Fractal Define Mini
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some before and after shots.
> Im happy with the little beast, running a 3570k O/C to 4.3 Ghz with a GTX670 FTW. Temps are much lower after the mod, however id still like to get the GPU running a little cooler under high load, might try applying some good TIM.
> Will clean up the back a little more and im not entirely happy with the HDD cabling.






That cleaned up real nice.

I have a manual version Lamptron controller and really love the look..it has that same really short molex power connector you have there. Like what you did though


----------



## ambro2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> R4 Mini: 19.29" x 8.27" x 15.55"
> Core 3000: 18.90" x 7.87" x 16.93"
> There you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But my question is why would you get the R4 mini when you can have the actual R4 for like 20 more bucks...


I want a relatively small case, the reason for that is that I can have the computer under one arm, and the screen under the other when I'm going to LAN-Parties


----------



## Drenalin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ambro2k*
> 
> I want a relatively small case, the reason for that is that I can have the computer under one arm, and the screen under the other when I'm going to LAN-Parties


^^^ this ...


----------



## Bereg

Hi

I have had fractal define R4 white for few weeks now and I have ran in to a problem. My hard drive( WD blue 500gb 7200rpm) causes vibration on the top and bottom panels on the case. Vibration gets even worse if I remove the upper hard drive cage. Previous case was Antec P150 and it had the suspension mounting for the hard drives.

I moved the hard drive outside the case and the vibration disappeared. Hard drive is 3 years old so It might be just dying? When I place my hand on the hard drive air bourne sound gets little lower. I can feel huge resonating on the hard drive when touching it.

I have tried loosening and tightening the hard drive screws but it has no effect on the vibration.


----------



## Tetris

Greetings Fractal owners!

I'm looking for a silent 140mm fan to put in the front of R4, any suggestions?


----------



## ben ten

SP140s, quitet as hell on medium/low, but on MAX it's terrible.


----------



## tonyjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bereg*
> 
> Hi
> I have had fractal define R4 white for few weeks now and I have ran in to a problem. My hard drive( WD blue 500gb 7200rpm) causes vibration on the top and bottom panels on the case. Vibration gets even worse if I remove the upper hard drive cage. Previous case was Antec P150 and it had the suspension mounting for the hard drives.
> I moved the hard drive outside the case and the vibration disappeared. Hard drive is 3 years old so It might be just dying? When I place my hand on the hard drive air bourne sound gets little lower. I can feel huge resonating on the hard drive when touching it.
> I have tried loosening and tightening the hard drive screws but it has no effect on the vibration.


Get a SSD and you won't regret it!


----------



## Moneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> Here.


Someone wanted another picture, this is all I have.


----------



## rossb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tetris*
> 
> Greetings Fractal owners!
> I'm looking for a silent 140mm fan to put in the front of R4, any suggestions?


I went through quite a number of fans and settled on Noiseblocker PK-2 as the quietest.


----------



## Fear Before

Everytime I turn my core 1000 on the front fan makes a loud noise, but it goes away after I hit the front panel a few times. Anyone else have this problem or know what could be causing it?


----------



## Col5

prob broke the fan by hitting it too many times


----------



## Col5

fantasic little case the core 1000 just built a rig for my son in one brilliant case


----------



## adi518

Guys, strangely, it says on Newegg, a 280mm radiator will go in the top of the R4:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352021&name=Computer-Cases

I think that's incorrect, isn't it?


----------



## K4IKEN

No... you can fit one up there, but you probably won't have access to the 8-pin and would probably have to run it fanless.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Here's my build in my R3 Black, I recently got the 670 but was very disappointed when my pci-e power cables wouldn't reach round the back because of the tiny PCB!


----------



## adi518

Sucks so much. Guess I'll have to put it on the front after all.


----------



## TSXmike

arc mini came in the other day. cannot wait for a day off so i can finally swap parts!


----------



## Badwrench

Got my Core 3000 last night in the mail. Good temps and very fun to build. Will be trying to add an H100 in the near future.





And where the cat stayed for the entire build.


----------



## ben ten

I love the color combo on the sleeves! Clean build


----------



## ben ten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> 
> Here's my build in my R3 Black, I recently got the 670 but was very disappointed when my pci-e power cables wouldn't reach round the back because of the tiny PCB!


Get an extension, lol.

Ops, forgot that I already posted once, alright, how do I delete this post? LOL


----------



## HiCZoK

Hi guys.
I am looking to get a good solid case for 2500k and 7950

My main candidate is define R4.
I want, dust filters, quiet, good air conditioning.

question. Should I just get it? YES or NO







(It is a little budget stretch but I feel like a naughty dog for that case)


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Hi guys.
> I am looking to get a good solid case for 2500k and 7950
> 
> My main candidate is define R4.
> I want, dust filters, quiet, good air conditioning.
> 
> question. Should I just get it? YES or NO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (It is a little budget stretch but I feel like a naughty dog for that case)


If you are looking for a yes or no on a Fractal case in the Fractal club, it's safe to assume the answer is YES!!!


----------



## HiCZoK

hehe. I guess so.

It is 23,2 cm width right?

This might be my only problem...

Is there any other good case tbelow that width ?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> hehe. I guess so.
> 
> It is 23,2 cm width right?
> 
> This might be my only problem...
> 
> Is there any other good case tbelow that width ?


I haven't looked, but I doubt it without going to a smaller case over all. My Core 1000 is over 18 cm, but at that point you start limiting yourself to mid-size air cooler.


----------



## HiCZoK

That 23cm would fit but:
let me explain:

my pc stands on my right side next to the wall (touching it with left panel)
There is a bed behind me which opens riiiight up to my desk (then I sit on it to use pc).

When bed is opened there is not much place left there,

pic:

sorry for the mess, its an old pic


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















I guess I could fit R4 in there, but would it be very bad, that it's both sides would be covered by either wall and bed ?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Hi guys.
> I am looking to get a good solid case for 2500k and 7950
> My main candidate is define R4.
> I want, dust filters, quiet, good air conditioning.
> question. Should I just get it? YES or NO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (It is a little budget stretch but I feel like a naughty dog for that case)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> hehe. I guess so.
> It is 23,2 cm width right?
> This might be my only problem...
> Is there any other good case tbelow that width ?


the R4 is a fantastic candidate, but concerns over the width can be an issue.
there are many other narrower cases, but since you asked about "doored" case
i am assuming that this is the "look" you seek. the BitFenix Ghost has similar
features and is relativly new to market. the 550D is fair for a water-cooling chassis
but if air only.. itll be great. these two are narrower
ghost - 210mm
550D - 220mm

airdeano


----------



## HiCZoK

YOu are right. I want dust filters, sound absorbing materials (if possible), door etc

never heard about bitfenix. It is even a bit cheaper than r4.

I just want a good case in that price or lower. It doesnt have to be fractal. I will check that ghost

edit: I checked it - that bitfenxix ghost is very interesting. Happy to see hot swap at the top !


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> YOu are right. I want dust filters, sound absorbing materials (if possible), door etc
> never heard about bitfenix. It is even a bit cheaper than r4.
> I just want a good case in that price or lower. It doesnt have to be fractal. I will check that ghost
> edit: I checked it - that bitfenxix ghost is very interesting. Happy to see hot swap at the top !


What about the Define R3? You can still buy it from NCIX. It's cheaper than R4 and Ghost and it's a bit smaller.


----------



## HiCZoK

That's a good point. I will look for it if I still can find it (Poland)
Also - it appears the same price as r4 and is only 207mm instead of 232 sot thats good.

Any other propositions for good silent cases like r3, r4 or ghost?

I like the hdd dock in ghost. R4 doesn't have it ?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Sucks so much. Guess I'll have to put it on the front after all.


I can't wait to see pics, I'm dying to see a WC'd R4 for some inspiration. Got a build log?


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I can't wait to see pics, I'm dying to see a WC'd R4 for some inspiration. Got a build log?


There was an R4 with front mounted H100 on page 453.

Here is the picture:



Haven't seen any custom loops.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I can't wait to see pics, I'm dying to see a WC'd R4 for some inspiration. Got a build log?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/rebuilding-of-system-in-the-define-r4/30_30#post_18432557

If you got questions/suggestion be sure to suggest them in that thread.


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Col5*
> 
> prob broke the fan by hitting it too many times


The fan is fine... I think it might be coming out of the clips though


----------



## boomski

Finally got my rig mostly where I want it.


----------



## solsamurai

That's pretty flippin' nice!


----------



## AbdullahG

I love the lighting. Name?


----------



## boomski

Its just a 2 foot strip of some LED's they had on clearance at an auto parts store. I figured since they are set up to run off a 12 volt car system they would work, and they did!


----------



## plastictree

Just bought a define mini







I was using a friends old server case that was like 7 years old idk. I turned it on and was like.... Wait, is it on? Lol, and then I heard the stock cpu cooler, and was like hmmmmmm gotta fix that. But man, I love it. Going to get an led strip for the bottom as an underglow and post some pics


----------



## 72bluenova

So it seems that Newegg has the Arc Midi for $69.99. Using this 10% Promo code 'EMCJNHG243' and the 3 day select it ends up being $67.98.

As much as I like the R4, I think I am going to have to get this case. The difference in $$ I can use it in getting a better GPU for now.


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got my rig mostly where I want it.


have u a frontal photos ?


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> Finally got my rig mostly where I want it.


Specs?


----------



## Eiss

Hey guys.
I'm fairly new here. I have recently bought R4. What do you guys think, would it be safe to connect more than 3 fans to the built in fan controller?


----------



## boomski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> have u a frontal photos ?


Just an old one on hand at the moment.
.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Specs?


i5 2500k at 4.6
Asrock Z77 Extreme 4
NZXT Havik 140
8gb Crucial Ballistix 1866 Ram
MSI HD7870 Twin Frozr 3

64GB Crucial M4 for the boot drive and a 1TB Samsung for storage.

And a scythe kaze server fan controller for the mix of stock fractal and nzxt 140 fans in there.


----------



## Burned

Hi Guys, Does anyone have the HTPC/SFF FD Cases? My current one is the Node 605 which I love, but from what I have heard its a bit hard to track down? Definitely gets my recommendation if you can and are in the market for a HTPC/Desktop PC (Not really SFF lol)


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just ordered my friends components.



Looking forward to building it.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just ordered my friends components.
> 
> Looking forward to building it.


Looks quiet good









BTW have some realy budged Core 1000 build coming...


----------



## YairKoren

Got me a Define R4 , already moved my rg into it and im loving every minute of it. pictures will be up soon (when ill get mt samsung s3 in about 2 weeks)
rig :
i5 3570k 4.3 ghz
gtx 460 sli
z77x ud3
1t barrucoda sata 3
620 w seasonic power supply
8g kingston memory


----------



## Darius Silver

Well, just bit the bullet and finally bought a Define R4. http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=75044&vpn=R4-Black&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1296

Now just need to slowly pick up parts to put into it, I tell ya, the after holiday sales can't get here fast enough.


----------



## gubbin

I've seen several people pull that front dust filter out. Really like that look but how does it affect the dust on the inside?


----------



## Nuzart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gubbin*
> 
> I've seen several people pull that front dust filter out. Really like that look but how does it affect the dust on the inside?


I put filters on the inside of the fans. It worked.. if I kept them clean lol. my Arc Midi is dusty and I'm too lazy to clean it out until I sell and start using the Node 304.


----------



## bortoloj

Little update
I've remove carbon film by acoustic tissue.





The whole is more homogeneous, I prefer without carbon


----------



## mrrockwell

360 fan combo in define mini. Work in progress


----------



## YairKoren

i didn't need to wait for my s3 to come becouse i found my digital camera








are are some pics of my rig in my new R4 , i do have sleeved extension cables but i took them off for now (black and blue)
LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ABOUT IT
Specs :
3570k at 4.3ghz on a gigabyte z77x ud3 motherboard , 2 gtx 460 in sli overclocked about 15% , 8 gigs o ingston memory , 1T barrcota and its all powerd by 620w seasonic power supply!
here are the pics :


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, I made some SSD separator adapters for the R4:










With these you can remove the SSD from behind the tray whenever you like, WITHOUT removing the motherboard.


----------



## TSXmike

Finally took pics of my mini.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys, I made some SSD separator adapters for the R4:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With these you can remove the SSD from behind the tray whenever you like.


Nice. Are you selling these? Can you post a pic with it installed?


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YairKoren*


Dont you open the top holes ?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Nice. Are you selling these? Can you post a pic with it installed?


I only made one. I don't know if it really has request...

Installed:










NIce, snug fit.


----------



## YairKoren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Dont you open the top holes ?


not sure if i want too yet , the cpu fan is going full blast and the 2 gpus suck air too , i think its a good mix


----------



## xQuantum

Has anyone here taken out the bottom HDD cage on the Midi? I am trying to convince myself to do it but I wouldn't know how to remove them. Would I just use a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill?

Also I wouldn't know where to mount my HDD and SSD if I did remove it. I do not want my SSD to just hang from the cable, so I was thinking I should Velcro it somewhere. The problem is I don't know where. The HDD I wouldn't even know where to put.

Help!


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xQuantum*
> 
> Has anyone here taken out the bottom HDD cage on the Midi? I am trying to convince myself to do it but I wouldn't know how to remove them. Would I just use a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill?
> Also I wouldn't know where to mount my HDD and SSD if I did remove it. I do not want my SSD to just hang from the cable, so I was thinking I should Velcro it somewhere. The problem is I don't know where. The HDD I wouldn't even know where to put.
> Help!


Here's an idea. It's not midi it's mini but you get the picture


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I only made one. I don't know if it really has request...
> Installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NIce, snug fit.


Cool







. Would've been nice if Fractal did something like this! Can't complain about much else in the R4 though


----------



## Drenalin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xQuantum*
> 
> Has anyone here taken out the bottom HDD cage on the Midi? I am trying to convince myself to do it but I wouldn't know how to remove them. Would I just use a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill?
> Also I wouldn't know where to mount my HDD and SSD if I did remove it. I do not want my SSD to just hang from the cable, so I was thinking I should Velcro it somewhere. The problem is I don't know where. The HDD I wouldn't even know where to put.
> Help!


Have a look at my post on page 457. I drilled the bottom cage out just last week, and you will see what i used for my hdd's. Post mod my temps are much much better.

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/4560


----------



## xQuantum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drenalin*
> 
> Have a look at my post on page 457. I drilled the bottom cage out just last week, and you will see what i used for my hdd's. Post mod my temps are much much better.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/4560


Thanks for the idea. I think that is what I'll end up doing. Is this where you bought yours from?

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MM35A52CMB/

Does your HDD get hot very fast up there?


----------



## plastictree

Any pics of a custom water cool system in a define mini?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xQuantum*
> 
> Has anyone here taken out the bottom HDD cage on the Midi? I am trying to convince myself to do it but I wouldn't know how to remove them. Would I just use a 1/8 inch drill bit and drill?
> Also I wouldn't know where to mount my HDD and SSD if I did remove it. I do not want my SSD to just hang from the cable, so I was thinking I should Velcro it somewhere. The problem is I don't know where. The HDD I wouldn't even know where to put.
> Help!




removal is easy. yes with a 1/8" drill and power drill to remove six (6) rivets. two on the front do
theses first and four on the floor. once all is removed, remove the upper cage mount. this is where
you install the SSD or behind the motherboard tray. for the HDD, install it in the optibay (already
a 3.5-5.25 adapter there).

airdeano


----------



## xQuantum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> 
> removal is easy. yes with a 1/8" drill and power drill to remove six (6) rivets. two on the front do
> theses first and four on the floor. once all is removed, remove the upper cage mount. this is where
> you install the SSD or behind the motherboard tray. for the HDD, install it in the optibay (already
> a 3.5-5.25 adapter there).
> airdeano


Should I have my top cage mounted while doing this? And can you show me actually where you are saying I can mount the SSD?


----------



## adi518

Good thing on the R4, the bottom cage is done with screws so really easy to remove.


----------



## xQuantum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Good thing on the R4, the bottom cage is done with screws so really easy to remove.


Ugh, I know. I bought the Midi a week before it came out and was pretty upset when I found out it had screws.


----------



## Drenalin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xQuantum*
> 
> Thanks for the idea. I think that is what I'll end up doing. Is this where you bought yours from?
> http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MM35A52CMB/
> Does your HDD get hot very fast up there?


no the temps for my hdd's as well as everything else are much better, even the the hdds dont have a direct fan. I think overall i have much better air flow through the case so the inside temps are lower. My hdd's hover between 25-30 degrees. Not the same shop but for the mounts but similar parts.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xQuantum*
> 
> Ugh, I know. I bought the Midi a week before it came out and was pretty upset when I found out it had screws.


Hmm I should also mention that on the R4, should you decide to remove the cages completely, you can also remove the top rail thing, it's also screwed in, you just need to tuck a small screwdriver in there.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Good thing on the R4, the bottom cage is done with screws so really easy to remove.


i would leave the HDD assembly all connected, while removing the rivets. kinda stabilizes
and prevents bending while drilling the floor rivets.
then once all are removed, remove upper HDD cage. then remove the lower (i use a string
or wire to hog-tie the lower cage to keep the HDD trays intact). lastely with a stubby phillips
or short phillips, remove the upper HDD mount. there you can mount the SSD and mount
the HDD in the optibay (HDD adapeter located in lower bay).

airdeano


----------



## Peanuts4

How much dust does the core 1000 collect and is it hard to clean that mesh? Have you guys added a rear fan? Is it needed since the front is so open?


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> How much dust does the core 1000 collect and is it hard to clean that mesh? Have you guys added a rear fan? Is it needed since the front is so open?


Not that much if you have a side fan make sure you get a fabric dust filter as the metal one i have still lets dust through and gets stuck on my gpu's pcb and is hard to clean off it basically sticks to it and the front dust filter is quiet easy to clean just run your hoover nozzle over the front where the dust ring is and it cleans it quiet well. Yes a rear fan will help remove heat from the case.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drenalin*
> 
> Have a look at my post on page 457. I drilled the bottom cage out just last week, and you will see what i used for my hdd's. Post mod my temps are much much better.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/4560


I also plan on drilling mine out. Can you tell me where you got the multi mount? I only found them in blue.

Also if you had some free time, would you please take a picture of how it looks like in the 5.25 bay?

Thanks.


----------



## Peanuts4

What size is the side hole in the core 1000 do you use it as an intake or an exhaust? Some reviews I was reading online were saying how if you don't need a rear fan as there is so much air from the front air pushes the dust to the back. It sounds strange to me I'm thinking a about a Magma 120 for the front to replace the front fan. How is the stock fan though is it decent enough to keep or is it loud?


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> What size is the side hole in the core 1000 do you use it as an intake or an exhaust? Some reviews I was reading online were saying how if you don't need a rear fan as there is so much air from the front air pushes the dust to the back. It sounds strange to me I'm thinking a about a Magma 120 for the front to replace the front fan. How is the stock fan though is it decent enough to keep or is it loud?


The side fan is 120mm I had mine sucking into the case but since i instlled a tower cpu cooler the fan wont fit anymore. Its completeley up to you i like having the rear fan so it sucks heat and dust out my case and yeah the stock fan i pretty decent and quiet i switched mine out for a led fan instead.


----------



## Jolting

Going to be having fun with my R4 here shortly. Got everything setup for a full loop. AlphaCool UT60 280mm 60mm radiator. Waiting on my new Maximus V and 3570K, should have the build started this week. I actually have two R4's here and I swapped all the white and black between the cases. All HDD trays and PCI brackets are swapped.

I will have a proper build log but here are components.

Intel i5 3570K (XSPC Raystorm)
ASUS Maximus V Formula (ThermoFusion block)
EVGA GTX 570 HD (Heatkiller V2)
Corsair HX750 (Misc Sleeving)
Dual DDC1-VC pumps with XSPC Acrylic Head
Alphacool UT60 280mm (60mm Thick)
XSPC 250mm Tube Res

Plus the thing we are all here to see.
Fractal R4 White / Window (all white swap)

This will be my first proper build. Shouldn't require too much custom work except for modding for the 280mm. I got a few ideas for mounting,


----------



## DJKAY

I´ve got some budget Core 1000 build coming..
Specs:
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000
CPU: Intel Pentium g630
Mainboard: ASUS p8B75-M LX
RAM: 2x2GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1066
DVD-Burner: ASUS DRW 24B5ST
HDD (-__-): Western Difital WD5000AAKX
PSU: Corsair CX 430 V2
May go with a lower PSU thought....


----------



## frallowfranny

A question.

If you put led fans in the front of a fractal Define, will the light escape through the door slits on the side ?


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frallowfranny*
> 
> A question.
> If you put led fans in the front of a fractal Define, will the light escape through the door slits on the side ?


Yes, there is the gap to allow the fans to intake air in from those side vents, so the face of the fan would be visible if it was lit.


----------



## ad3ath

For anyone wondering about the Arc/R4 side panel. Fractal had a slight issue with their distributor and have had a delay. They are expecting it to be ready with them in 6 weeks.


----------



## ad3ath

What's the easiest way to mount a 3.5" HDD in the case when removing all of the hard drive cages for more airflow? My SSD would go behind the motherboard tray. I have a fan controller, but is it easy to mount the HDD upside down under the 5.25" bays?


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> What's the easiest way to mount a 3.5" HDD in the case when removing all of the hard drive cages for more airflow? My SSD would go behind the motherboard tray. I have a fan controller, but is it easy to mount the HDD upside down under the 5.25" bays?


I put mine in the 5.25" to 3.5" adapter that came with it. Just pulled all the HDD cages last night to put an H100 in the front.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I put mine in the 5.25" to 3.5" adapter that came with it. Just pulled all the HDD cages last night to put an H100 in the front.


You mean that came with your HDD? I don't recall my Arc coming with anything like that. Your build look's good!







Maybe I'll end up getting a 5.25" adapter but was hoping to put a reservoir up in the dual bays at some point.


----------



## Peanuts4

On the core 1000 does the side mounting hard drive offer any cooling benefits? I would imagine if its mounted on the lower section of the bar it might be hit by the 120mm fan?
Let me know if not I'm just going to mount it in a drive bay with an adapter I have. I prefer to have a driver securely mounted horizontally vs vertically on that bar, it looks like it might vibrate. Thoughts?


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> You mean that came with your HDD? I don't recall my Arc coming with anything like that. Your build look's good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll end up getting a 5.25" adapter but was hoping to put a reservoir up in the dual bays at some point.


Lol I just saw what you meant I never noticed the adapter in there.


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> On the core 1000 does the side mounting hard drive offer any cooling benefits? I would imagine if its mounted on the lower section of the bar it might be hit by the 120mm fan?
> Let me know if not I'm just going to mount it in a drive bay with an adapter I have. I prefer to have a driver securely mounted horizontally vs vertically on that bar, it looks like it might vibrate. Thoughts?


Yes the side mount for HDD's & SSD's does get in the way of the air coming from the front fan and cools it my hdd dropped over 5c when installing it into this new case.


----------



## ZeVo

Guys, do you know if Corsair AF140's would fit the front of the Midi? I swear I saw a picture of them mounted in the front..


----------



## gubbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Guys, do you know if Corsair AF140's would fit the front of the Midi? I swear I saw a picture of them mounted in the front..


Yes, Arc Midi will fit 2 AF140's in the front


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Guys, do you know if Corsair AF140's would fit the front of the Midi? I swear I saw a picture of them mounted in the front..


Yeah they fit. Got 2 in the front of mine.


----------



## ZeVo

Sweet. Now I have to wait for them to go on sale.

Has anyone done some modding on their front panel? I really want to remove the foam and just buy some other fan filters. How should I proceed on doing this?


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Got my Core 3000 last night in the mail. Good temps and very fun to build. Will be trying to add an H100 in the near future.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And where the cat stayed for the entire build.


Looking good badwrench! Makes me want to work on a smaller build too! BTW nice h100


----------



## sectionsone

Need comment for my updated project mini


Spoiler: updatedmini


----------



## eza coy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Need comment for my updated project mini
> 
> 
> Spoiler: updatedmini


That's pretty ' nice!


----------



## Borarah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Need comment for my updated project mini
> 
> 
> Spoiler: updatedmini


This is jizz material. Do you mind listing your specs? I might be building one soon


----------



## Derek1387

Anyone know if the Phanteks cooler will fit the Arc Mini/Maximus Gene board?

Looking to upgrade...


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eza coy*
> 
> That's pretty ' nice!


Agreed!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borarah*
> 
> This is jizz material. Do you mind listing your specs? I might be building one soon


I'd like to see that too. Is that the megahelm heatsink?


----------



## winniethepwn

Does anyone have an AIO cooler on the front of an arc midi? I was going to buy an H100 and put it up top, but the thermaltake water2.0 just went on shellshocker--performs almost as well as the h100 and could not find anyone with pump/leaking problems. I'm concerned with how ugly it's going to look in the back with the dual fan setup (it sticks out VERY far), so I'm trying to figure out somewhere else to put it. I'm planning to drill out ALL HDD cages and mounting my SSD in the back. So the right side of the case is going to be very open.

Also, does the rad that comes with the XSPC rasa kit fit up front? This kit is in my future.

Thanks!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Looking good badwrench! Makes me want to work on a smaller build too! BTW nice h100


Thanks. I will be refitting the h100 tonight as I don't like how I mounted it. Building a bracket today to get the rad mounted better in the front of the case and picking up some hardware to replace the stock corsair fans with some Panaflows (38mm thick). I had them on my RX240 and they were nice a quiet. The stock corsairs even at the lowest setting are the loudest thing in my case.


----------



## HiCZoK

Wrote an email to Fractal, asking how long total is r3 and r4, with door open wide.

"The Define R3 is 715mm from the back of the side panel thumb screw to the open front door, 705mm without the thumb screw.
Same distances on the Define R4 is 747mm/737mm."

Some ppl might find it usefull, considering R3 or R4


----------



## Badwrench

Moved the H100 from the front to the top. Up front it was messing with the airflow of the case and I didn't like the bends in the tubing. I left the HDD cages out as the lack of turbulence from the front fans keeps it much quieter. Case is nearly silent except for a slight wind noise as there are 7 fans running. Folding wide open, my temps are topping out at 35C @3.725ghz.


----------



## VHJC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Moved the H100 from the front to the top. Up front it was messing with the airflow of the case and I didn't like the bends in the tubing. I left the HDD cages out as the lack of turbulence from the front fans keeps it much quieter. Case is nearly silent except for a slight wind noise as there are 7 fans running. Folding wide open, my temps are topping out at 35C @3.725ghz.


Is that a Core 3000???


----------



## Nuzart

Node 304 is nearly complete.


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's my 360 fan mod in a define mini all done.


And the false floor


Sorry for bad pictures I didn't have my camera at hand


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Thanks. I will be refitting the h100 tonight as I don't like how I mounted it. Building a bracket today to get the rad mounted better in the front of the case and picking up some hardware to replace the stock corsair fans with some Panaflows (38mm thick). I had them on my RX240 and they were nice a quiet. The stock corsairs even at the lowest setting are the loudest thing in my case.


Yea unfortunately that was the only thing I didn't like. Running them at low was the only way for me to have them near silent.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I've found a company in the UK that have the windowed R4 in stock but they only have the Titanium Grey version for £98.76 including delivery but they also stock the normal version for £116.78 including delivery. Is the windowed version cheaper because they use less sound dampening material or because they think less people will buy the windowed version?


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, Bill Owen made a new video on the R4 and water cooling. This one is really good and covers pretty much everything!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VHJC*
> 
> Is that a Core 3000???


Yup. Best budget case on the market.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> Yea unfortunately that was the only thing I didn't like. Running them at low was the only way for me to have them near silent.


Even on low, they were the loudest thing. I swapped them out for a pair of medium speed Yates as the 38mm panaflows didn't fit when I moved the rad to the top panel. Even so, it is still shifted toward the front of the case to clear the vrm heatsinks and 8 pin. Wouldn't fit if there was an optical drive.


----------



## VHJC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Yup. Best budget case on the market.


Yes I know! I own it too.

Can you give us (me







) a few more pics of how you mounted the H100 on top please? I also want to mount one of them but I wasn't sure that it would fit on top.

Thanks!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VHJC*
> 
> Yes I know! I own it too.
> Can you give us (me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) a few more pics of how you mounted the H100 on top please? I also want to mount one of them but I wasn't sure that it would fit on top.
> Thanks!


No problem. I will take more pics tonight when I get home. One thing to note is that it will not work with normal ram. I have the Samsung 30nm stuff that is super short. Even normal low profile memory wont clear without drilling new holes to mount the rad closer to the side panel. Also, there is no room for an optical drive in the upper 5.25" bay. The HDD in the adapter in the second 5.25" bay clears the fan by about 1/4".


----------



## ad3ath

Hard drive cage removed from MIDI, GPU VERY HAPPY! 26C idle, 40C load! Removed side panel, and bottom mounted fan, case much more spacious without.







SSD behind mobo, HDD in 5.25" bays. Want a new PSU now for cable management. Flat rigid PSU cables are awful.


----------



## wompwomp

FRACTAL DESIGN R4 OWNERS,

how are the stock fans? Decent airflow? Noise level at the different fan controller settings? Help a brother out one time.


----------



## Jolting

So anyone interested in my setup I'm working on? Should be done today, just gotta pick up some supplies. Had it setup for leak testing last night.

Thats a 280mm Alphacool UT60 in the front. With barely any modding at all.


----------



## 72bluenova

Yes please. Specs on everything. PC components as well as the WC. Can you get better lighting on the pictures?

This is exactly what I am looking to do for the future case and all. Thank you


----------



## Jolting

I have video of everything also. I will be uploading that pretty soon.

Intel i5 3570K (XSPC Raystorm)
ASUS Maximus V Formula (ThermoFusion block)
EVGA GTX 570 HD (Heatkiller V2)
Corsair HX750 (Misc Sleeving)
Dual DDC1-VC pumps with XSPC Acrylic Head
Alphacool UT60 280mm (60mm Thick)
EK 250mm Tube Res

If I can, I will find someone with a DSLR to take photos. I used a camcorder for the photos.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp*
> 
> FRACTAL DESIGN R4 OWNERS,
> how are the stock fans? Decent airflow? Noise level at the different fan controller settings? Help a brother out one time.


Okish case fans. Not for water cooling. @ 1000 rpm it's pretty inaudible.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolting*
> 
> So anyone interested in my setup I'm working on? Should be done today, just gotta pick up some supplies. Had it setup for leak testing last night.
> Thats a 280mm Alphacool UT60 in the front. With barely any modding at all.


That's great. I'm also planning a LC setup right now. That just gave me an idea actually. Although I wanted to use the top fan mounts for 140mm fans, using a res up there could actually be a better idea. However, I'd combine the pump into the res and maybe use a shorter res so the hose from the rad to the pump won't kink. Which reservoir is it and did you get a separate mount for it or was it included?


----------



## Jolting

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> That's great. I'm also planning a LC setup right now. That just gave me an idea actually. Although I wanted to use the top fan mounts for 140mm fans, using a res up there could actually be a better idea. However, I'd combine the pump into the res and maybe use a shorter res so the hose from the rad to the pump won't kink. Which reservoir is it and did you get a separate mount for it or was it included?


EK MultiOption, it comes with it (The mount thingy). Instead of the screw and nut though, I used a fan screw and threaded it into the plastic on the bracket. Also I have no kinks in the line. It's actually my like that is least likely to kink.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11180/ex-res-227/EK-MultiOption_RES_X2_-_250_Basic_-_Liquid_Cooling_Reservoir_4_Total_Ports.html

I basically used spare parts I had on hand. I wish I had a different pump so I could of mounted it to the res, but I have super tall pumps, so the mounting is odd. If you look they are about the twice the height of a normal MCP355. I however paid half the price of a single MCP355 to get two of these. Which the only difference is the extra volume chamber thing. These are just as powerful. I just had to do custom wiring. As I didn't hook up the RPM switch, I'm just running them at full power, but I will check to see if I can integrate it into the cases fan controller. I'm not sure on the wattage though.


----------



## adi518

I think that with this LC setup you could use a shorter res with a bitspower modded d5.. I think it will look amazing. Do you know if it's possible to thread in a D5 at the bottom of that res or do you need a pump top?









** edit I think I said something stupid ** is there a pump top for the d5 that is sort of circular?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just had an email saying the parts for my friends PC that I'm building will be here tomorrow. Really looking forward to working with the R4. I'll post some pics on Saturday when it'll hopefully be finished.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolting*
> 
> So anyone interested in my setup I'm working on? Should be done today, just gotta pick up some supplies. Had it setup for leak testing last night.
> 
> Thats a 280mm Alphacool UT60 in the front. With barely any modding at all.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/spolier]


Finally!! In for the video, and please find a way to get some better pictures. Looks great from what I can see though.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Added a couple things to my rig... Swapped the 2 stock 140's up top for a couple Gelid Wing 14's. Also replaced the Intel cpu fan for the Gelid pwm fan. So all case fans are now gelid.

Also swapped out the white pci slot covers for some black Silverstone Aeroslot covers. I think it looks significantly better, plus there's a bit more ventilation for my case.



Hopefully I can catch a deal on a 240gb+ ssd on black friday to eliminate the need of my hdd so I can remove the cage and clean up some space.

Also planning on getting the corsair ax850 sleeved cable upgrade kit, but can't seem to choose between the black or blue kit. Suggestions? I've seen the blue ones for $70 online but not quite sure if it'll match my components. Black is obviously the safer choice, but looking at $90-100 for those...


----------



## dumafourlife

Checking out this thread makes me want to start a new build with the arc mini =)


----------



## ZeVo

Has anyone taken out their foam on the Midi? I am planning on getting new fans and want to remove them.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Has anyone taken out their foam on the Midi? I am planning on getting new fans and want to remove them.


Yep. I de-foamed mine as soon as I opened the box. Looks much better.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yep. I de-foamed mine as soon as I opened the box. Looks much better.


Agree it looks way better. I know there are many other things to consider in this question, but is there a lot of dust since it is removed? I may just buy some filters and put them there.


----------



## corysti

latest update on my machine...It's still a mess but slowly getting put together. I decided to try the monsoon fittings and while they look good the finish suck. Ive scratched the blue off a few fittings within a few seconds of using them.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Has anyone taken out their foam on the Midi? I am planning on getting new fans and want to remove them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Agree it looks way better. I know there are many other things to consider in this question, but is there a lot of dust since it is removed? I may just buy some filters and put them there.


as said before, i never powered my case on with the foam inserted. always had the foam out, first mod
was to cut the cross-bars away and filters installed on back of fans.. i have minimal if any accumulation.



airdeano


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Has anyone taken out their foam on the Midi? I am planning on getting new fans and want to remove them.


Not a Midi, but the Core series has the same thing. I trimmed mine (140mm fan circle) and cut out the cross bars.


----------



## Jolting

http://www.overclock.net/t/1322496/build-log-project-red-snow-fractal-r4
Follow my build log and comment on it if you guys like, here are the photos from it though. Please don't quote the images without a spoiler tag. Videos will come soon. Also I'm getting a DSLR tomorrow hopefully. It may be better but I'm not sure yet.


















Here are some photos next to another R4.


----------



## Peanuts4

Hey guys do any of you Fractal design core 1000 owners have a Coolermaster CM690 II ATX Mid tower case? I would like to see a size difference. If you would please take a picture for me. Also how are the Fractal design 92mm fans?
Thanks!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Hey guys do any of you Fractal design core 1000 owners have a Coolermaster CM690 II ATX Mid tower case? I would like to see a size difference. If you would please take a picture for me. Also how are the Fractal design 92mm fans?
> Thanks!


Axipher has both cases. PM him to see if he's willing to help: http://www.overclock.net/u/244656/axipher


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Axipher has both cases. PM him to see if he's willing to help: http://www.overclock.net/u/244656/axipher


Wow impressed you know that, I pm'ed him thanks a bunch

Anyone test with and without the side intake fan in? I'm curious the temp difference planning out my fans.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Hey guys do any of you Fractal design core 1000 owners have a Coolermaster CM690 II ATX Mid tower case? I would like to see a size difference. If you would please take a picture for me. Also how are the Fractal design 92mm fans?
> Thanks!


I have one myself, the Advanced version, will be posting pictures later today afterwork.


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I have one myself, the Advanced version, will be posting pictures later today afterwork.


I love the people on this forum, seriously awesome. Thanks bud


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corysti*
> 
> latest update on my machine...It's still a mess but slowly getting put together. I decided to try the monsoon fittings and while they look good the finish suck. Ive scratched the blue off a few fittings within a few seconds of using them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Progress looking good! Too bad the fittings have a weak finish.


----------



## corysti

update: I went outside today and shot a few pictures to show everything.

Monsoon fittings will be only used on this build. I will never use these damn things again. The wrench doesn't work right half the time and finish peels off with my finger nail . They look great on the pictures and the are different of for everyday functionality a no go.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Almost finished building my friends rig. Still waiting on the blu-ray drive and graphics card but I think it's pretty cool. I probably could have made the cables look better but it'll rarely be opened so I didn't bother.

Build log is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1322804/build-log-friends-r4-build#post_18509718

Take it easy on me because it's my first attempt at a build log.

I also took some time to put my Maximus 4 Gene-Z Gen3 and my H100 in the R4 (didn't get pictures though) and it fits perfectly if I move it over one hole. It fits using the normal holes but it squishes the 8 pin and I didn't like that.

Now that I know it fits I'm going to buy myself an R4 and move everything across.

Need to decide on either the Black or the White now


----------



## K4IKEN

I'm loving all the R4 WC goodness.. Can't wait to shove a 280 in the front of mine!


----------



## kim jong so ill

yeah, keep these WC R4's coming! Definitely will attempt this in the future


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> I love the people on this forum, seriously awesome. Thanks bud


Will post in few minutes, lightning all over the place :S

Edit: Well the power slapped me in the face and left the house.
Here you go: http://db.tt/rdW4TLUE


----------



## ckdubois

Hi all,

I have a Define Mini on its way for my 3570k/Gigabyte GTX 670 OC build. I plan on OC'ing the CPU to around 4.2/4.3 and possibly the 670 as well.

While I wait, I've been thinking a lot about how best to cool the system. I know the 670 with Windforce 3 is great for cooling the GPU but will dump some of that heat back in the case, so I want to make sure it doesn't impact the rest of the system much. I have a Hyper 212 EVO sitting here plus an Enermax T.B.Silence on its way (I went ahead and bought it today since Newegg has 20% off all fans and I'd figure I'd want an extra fan anyway). I'm considering the following but want to just see if anyone with more experience thinks there's a better approach.


2 front 120mm (Enermax and stock) intake
1 rear 120mm intake (stock)
Hyper 212 fan pushing towards exhaust
Is this going to be sufficient? Should I move any of the fans around or bother with either of the bottom or top fan vents? I know I could do better than sticking with the stock fans, but I'm more of a "buy only what you need if what you've got is sufficient" guy than getting the top end of everything.

Thanks in advance, looking forward to putting this thing together!


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I'm loving all the R4 WC goodness.. Can't wait to shove a 280 in the front of mine!


I ordered the Black Ice GTS 280 (slim). You will be able to see pics in my project thread hopefully by the end of next week. Btw, I saw another water cooled R4 in the water-cooling gallery thread. I don't think he posted here yet.

Edit: oh lol, he posted just few posts above.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Will post in few minutes, lightning all over the place :S
> Edit: Well the power slapped me in the face and left the house.
> Here you go: http://db.tt/rdW4TLUE


That I would call tight fitting.
I really like your build


----------



## MiiX

Thanks!
I'm going to build a new system when Intel releases the new CPU's, but I'm not sure whether to choose mATX or mITX for watercooling.... I do want the mITX for the small size but it will limit me to something smaller than a 360 radiator.... But a mATX case such as Core 1000 can fit it. So im not sure yet, but somewhere in Q1 2013 i have to find that out,,,


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ckdubois*
> 
> Hi all,
> I have a Define Mini on its way for my 3570k/Gigabyte GTX 670 OC build. I plan on OC'ing the CPU to around 4.2/4.3 and possibly the 670 as well.
> While I wait, I've been thinking a lot about how best to cool the system. I know the 670 with Windforce 3 is great for cooling the GPU but will dump some of that heat back in the case, so I want to make sure it doesn't impact the rest of the system much. I have a Hyper 212 EVO sitting here plus an Enermax T.B.Silence on its way (I went ahead and bought it today since Newegg has 20% off all fans and I'd figure I'd want an extra fan anyway). I'm considering the following but want to just see if anyone with more experience thinks there's a better approach.
> 
> 2 front 120mm (Enermax and stock) intake
> 1 rear 120mm intake (stock)
> Hyper 212 fan pushing towards exhaust
> Is this going to be sufficient? Should I move any of the fans around or bother with either of the bottom or top fan vents? I know I could do better than sticking with the stock fans, but I'm more of a "buy only what you need if what you've got is sufficient" guy than getting the top end of everything.
> Thanks in advance, looking forward to putting this thing together!


I would put the Enermax up front, one of the stock fans on the side panel to push air directly on the gpu, and the stock 120 in the rear plus another stocker if you can find one for the top as exhaust. This way, there will be a little more intake than exhaust to keep some positive pressure.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I'm loving all the R4 WC goodness.. Can't wait to shove a 280 in the front of mine!
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered the Black Ice GTS 280 (slim). You will be able to see pics in my project thread hopefully by the end of next week. Btw, I saw another water cooled R4 in the water-cooling gallery thread. I don't think he posted here yet.
> 
> Edit: oh lol, he posted just few posts above.
Click to expand...

Yea man I got an eye on you're build already, I'm loving it so far. I knew the R4 was a great case for WC'ing. All you got to do is offset the top 240mm rad a little and you're golden. I'm thinking of doing a 240+280 but I doubt I need that much cooling for a cpu only loop, but hey, the experience wont hurt.


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Will post in few minutes, lightning all over the place :S
> Edit: Well the power slapped me in the face and left the house.
> Here you go: http://db.tt/rdW4TLUE


Thanks a lot bud, yeash lightning. The only thing I hate about these open mesh cases is the dust thats for sure. Pretty cool water cooling setup you have in there good use of space. Thats pretty neat is there actually holes to hook the SSD to the drive cage or did you make your own for that samsung? Thanks again


----------



## MiiX

Nothing special about it, Its screwed into one of the holes of the 5.25" bay with one HDD screw that came with the case.
I agree with the dust part, but can be fixed by removing the filter completly, because the case is made for positive airflow.(More air in to the case than out) and this makes it less dusty inside, so it would not be a major problem. Only reason for me for not removing it is that its harder to clean the dust inside the H50 than the filter


----------



## ekg84

just built another core 1000 pc for my nephew, despite lack of any type of cable management i like this little case a lot


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> just built another core 1000 pc for my nephew, despite lack of any type of cable management i like this little case a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wanted to say the same









Here is the core 1000 for my grandpa








Real budged but it is the way it is









Sorry for bad lighting...


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> just built another core 1000 pc for my nephew, despite lack of any type of cable management i like this little case a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, looks great! Your nephew is going to be pretty happy I assume. Did you sleeve the front panel cables?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Wow, looks great! Your nephew is going to be pretty happy I assume. Did you sleeve the front panel cables?


Thank you! yeah he is pretty excited about it, and u got a great eye spotting those front panel cables as they are indeed sleeved


----------



## gubbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> just built another core 1000 pc for my nephew, despite lack of any type of cable management i like this little case a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work and wow..looking over your core 3000 mods is inspiring. that thing is simplistic beauty at it's finest


----------



## corysti

Should i change the radiator fans to go along with the theme more and if so which fans should I get?


----------



## Michalius

Little update for my secondary/multimedia rig:


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> just built another core 1000 pc for my nephew, despite lack of any type of cable management i like this little case a lot


Nice build! What are the specs?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gubbin*
> 
> Nice work and wow..looking over your core 3000 mods is inspiring. that thing is simplistic beauty at it's finest


Thank you kindly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Nice build! What are the specs?


Thanx! specs are pretty modest, used some spare parts i had around:

i3 550 OC'ed @ 4.2Ghz
Msi H55m-ed55
8gb Wintec DDR3
Ati Radeon HD5870 Reference
500W Ultra x4 Modular PSU
1tb Samsung 7200Rpm hdd
CM Geminii S CPU Heatsink


----------



## PhilWrir

What about my Core 1000?
Is it too small to qualify?

ASRock FM2A75 Pro4-M
A8-5600K
8GB Wintec AMPX DDR3 1866
Kingston SSDNow V200 128GB
OCZ ModXStreme 500W


----------



## athlon 64

Hello, so i have a question. A priority for my pc is to be very quiet and serv me reliable 24/7, i"m not much of a gamer ( i do play bf3 but not a lot) and i currently use cm 690 2 case. It"s a good case but it"s completly opened. You can install 100000 fans in it and it has no isolation. I have installed a controller and i keep my rig very quiet by my goal is inaudible at idle. I use accelero extreme on my gtx470 and it dumps all the heat in the case so i have to have a dozen fans to take it out. If i replace my gpu with something a bit cooler would i be able to buy a fractal r4 and cool my system with 2 fans that come with it + one additional on the intake. And would my rig be inaudible when fans are at 800 or less rpm. I don"t use any noisy hard drives, just one wd green and a SSD. When i say inaudible i mean not possible to tell is it working or not. You can see my components below. It runs 24/7 and i don"t want to hear it when i sleep. R4 seems to be a perfect case with so much isolation. And it"s beautifully simple witch i love, I think it would look great below my desk









http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266/img0176or.jpg/


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Hello, so i have a question. A priority for my pc is to be very quiet and serv me reliable 24/7, i"m not much of a gamer ( i do play bf3 but not a lot) and i currently use cm 690 2 case. It"s a good case but it"s completly opened. You can install 100000 fans in it and it has no isolation. I have installed a controller and i keep my rig very quiet by my goal is inaudible at idle. I use accelero extreme on my gtx470 and it dumps all the heat in the case so i have to have a dozen fans to take it out. If i replace my gpu with something a bit cooler would i be able to buy a fractal r4 and cool my system with 2 fans that come with it + one additional on the intake. And would my rig be inaudible when fans are at 800 or less rpm. I don"t use any noisy hard drives, just one wd green and a SSD. When i say inaudible i mean not possible to tell is it working or not. You can see my components below. It runs 24/7 and i don"t want to hear it when i sleep. R4 seems to be a perfect case with so much isolation. And it"s beautifully simple witch i love, I think it would look great below my desk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266/img0176or.jpg/


I have just built a rig for my friend using the R4 and it's dead quiet. He turned up earlier to pick it up and I asked him to turn it on, when he did he asked me why it wasn't booting and then he looked at the screen and saw it had and was shocked that it was that silent. Even with his old reference Nvidia GTX card it was inaudible and that was with the fan controller at 12v for the front 2 fans and the rear fan, cpu fan is PMW and was at about 800rpm. It has made me finally decide to ditch my Midi and get an R4.


----------



## athlon 64

Great! Then i wait for R4 to come in my country and i buy one. It"s not expensive at all.
Btw i could install my wd green into the 5.25 bay and completly remove hdd cage?? Because then i could put those 2 fractal fans at the front and a 1200rpm scythe slip stream at the back. It would be perfect for airflow and i would get positive pressure.
Also case is so beautifully simple that i can"t get enough of looking it"s pictures.


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Thank you kindly
> Thanx! specs are pretty modest, used some spare parts i had around:
> i3 550 OC'ed @ 4.2Ghz
> Msi H55m-ed55
> 8gb Wintec DDR3
> Ati Radeon HD5870 Reference
> 500W Ultra x4 Modular PSU
> 1tb Samsung 7200Rpm hdd
> CM Geminii S CPU Heatsink


Nice! Similar to my core 1000.
i3 550
Msi H55m-E23
8gb gskill ripjaws
EVGA 9800GT
500W Corsair psu
500gb Western Digital Caviar Blue


----------



## sectionsone

Here my Fractal Arc Mini newest build, please give comment.
Quote:


> *Specifications:*
> *Chassis :* Fractal Design Arc Mini
> *Processor :* Intel 3960X
> *Motherboard :* Asus ROG Rampage IV Gene LGA 2011
> *Memory :* Corsair DDR3 Vengeance Black PC12800 16GB (4X4GB) - CML16GX3M4A1600C9 LP
> *VGA :* ASUS ROG Matrix Platinum GTX 580
> *HSF :* Prolimatech Black Megahelm
> *Fans :* 3 x Corsair AF120, 2 x Corsair SP120, 2 x Corsair AF140
> *Power Supply :* Seasonic X660W
> *SSD :* 2 x Corsair Force GT 120GB SATA III as RAID0
> *HDD :* WDC Black 1TB SATA III
> *ODD :*Silverstone SOD02 Slot In + Silverstone FP58 Black
> 
> 
> Spoiler: front side
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----------



## ELEKTRIK_BLUE

hey guys heres an update on my rig ive painted all the grills white







heres some case mods ive done nothing amazing

chopped out the grill to allow more airflow


painted the lettering in dead end grey pinstripers paint


i have also removed all that stupid foam crap they use as dust filters and my fans seem slightly quieter and ive noticed better airflow and temps by 1-2c depending on what part im monitoring. also the amount of dust inside the case is still the same.


----------



## ROM3000

Hey everyone. Quick questions for those of you that removed the dust filters. Have you noticed any significant increase in dust inside the case? I really like the look of the case without the dust filters, but I'm worried that the case will get very dusty quickly. Thoughts?


----------



## kim jong so ill

Arc Midi on sale for $70 w/ free shipping at Newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?SID=IxKyYCfyEeKPKPJvjwbRWgWRU7_0_0_0_0&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16811352007


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sectionsone*
> 
> Here my Fractal Arc Mini newest build, please give comment.


Love it - That is fantastic work - Well done


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Hey everyone. Quick questions for those of you that removed the dust filters. Have you noticed any significant increase in dust inside the case? I really like the look of the case without the dust filters, but I'm worried that the case will get very dusty quickly. Thoughts?


I haven't seen a significant difference. I have a positive pressure setup, so that helps a little, but I also clean my setup all the time as I have pets (and my cat sleeps on my case while it is folding)


----------



## Charlie--

I would like to add Bitfenix Alchemy cables to my Arc but I can not decide on white or black - I would get the 24-pin, 8-pin ATX and 6-pin PCIe cables only. The front panel ones have been braided by me in black and the Sata cables are just normal black plastic as well as the sata & molex power cables.

So which colour of braid would look better?

P.S. Post photos of your black or white braided cable if you can, thanks


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> I would like to add Bitfenix Alchemy cables to my Arc but I can not decide on white or black - I would get the 24-pin, 8-pin ATX and 6-pin PCIe cables only. The front panel ones have been braided by me in black and the Sata cables are just normal black plastic as well as the sata & molex power cables.
> So which colour of braid would look better?
> P.S. Post photos of your black or white braided cable if you can, thanks


Sleeve you're power supply!

I have extensions on the ones you listed and it makes cable management a lot harder.

I'd recommend getting the Bitfenix sleeved sata cables because they're really nice (I have 3, 2 black and 1 red)

I think a combination of both white and black would look good and maybe throw some blue in there to match your motherboard.


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I haven't seen a significant difference. I have a positive pressure setup, so that helps a little, but I also clean my setup all the time as I have pets (and my cat sleeps on my case while it is folding)


Thanks for the reply. Just to confirm, positive pressure is more fans as intake than exhausting correct? If so, then I currently am also running that setup.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. Just to confirm, positive pressure is more fans as intake than exhausting correct? If so, then I currently am also running that setup.


That's correct.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Sleeve you're power supply!
> I have extensions on the ones you listed and it makes cable management a lot harder.
> I'd recommend getting the Bitfenix sleeved sata cables because they're really nice (I have 3, 2 black and 1 red)
> I think a combination of both white and black would look good and maybe throw some blue in there to match your motherboard.


I'm not brave enough to sleeve the PSU, also I have to currently use extensions (cheap ones) and the cable mgr is ok. I do like the sata data cables too, but they are ~£9 each, no funds to do those at the mo'


----------



## winniethepwn

I purchased an Arc Midi off newegg. One of the wires on the front usb plug is severed, very close to the front panel. It's unfixable by my standards--looks like the pin is soldered onto the board, so I can't remove it and recrimp. Highly unlikely this was damage done by shipping. Who should I contact? Newegg or fractal? What would a new front panel thingy cost me if they brush me off?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> I purchased an Arc Midi off newegg. One of the wires on the front usb plug is severed, very close to the front panel. It's unfixable by my standards--looks like the pin is soldered onto the board, so I can't remove it and recrimp. Highly unlikely this was damage done by shipping. Who should I contact? Newegg or fractal? What would a new front panel thingy cost me if they brush me off?


Contact Fractal and they'll send you a new front panel I/O. They did it for me when my audio cable stopped working.


----------



## Charlie--

@ VulgarDisplay88 - I thought that I saw a photo of your updated rig with the new Corsair Air series fans fitted, but I can not seem to find it, any change you can post again? I am thinking of swapping my Noiseblocker PK's for some of the Corsair ones. - Thanks


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> I purchased an Arc Midi off newegg. One of the wires on the front usb plug is severed, very close to the front panel. It's unfixable by my standards--looks like the pin is soldered onto the board, so I can't remove it and recrimp. Highly unlikely this was damage done by shipping. Who should I contact? Newegg or fractal? What would a new front panel thingy cost me if they brush me off?
> 
> 
> 
> Contact Fractal and they'll send you a new front panel I/O. They did it for me when my audio cable stopped working.
Click to expand...

Fractal is amazing for sending case part replacements.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> @ VulgarDisplay88 - I thought that I saw a photo of your updated rig with the new Corsair Air series fans fitted, but I can not seem to find it, any change you can post again? I am thinking of swapping my Noiseblocker PK's for some of the Corsair ones. - Thanks


Here you go:


Spoiler: Side









Spoiler: Front







It's an old photo. I have flipped the top fans to intake, flipped the PSU, added a support to the GPU because it was sagging quite badly and neatened all the cables.

Going to be transplanting it all into an R4 soon though so look out for that.


----------



## Charlie--

Thank you @VulgarDisplay88 - I really like what you have done to your Arc and it will be great to see the setup in an R4







- I see that you have the Recon FC, I was thinking of getting it, but ran out of money by the time stock was available in the UK and then I started to think that I might get the FD Adjust 108 FC instead (but that seems delayed too), both are on my "maybe" wish list.

Is the Recon display white in colour and can the temp probes be disconnected if you don't want to use them?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Thank you @VulgarDisplay88 - I really like what you have done to your Arc and it will be great to see the setup in an R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I see that you have the Recon FC, I was thinking of getting it, but ran out of money by the time stock was available in the UK and then I started to think that I might get the FD Adjust 108 FC instead (but that seems delayed too), both are on my "maybe" wish list.
> Is the Recon display white in colour and can the temp probes be disconnected if you don't want to use them?


You're welcome









The Recon is a really nice fan controller with some good features. It is white with a small hint of blue (well to me it is) but the screen can be turned off. I'm not sure if the temp sensors can be disconnected but if you bunched them up and cable tied them then they'd be out of the way.

I only know of 1 company in the UK that can get the FD Adjust 108 at the moment (http://www.orsonit.co.uk/fractal-accessory-adjust-108-fan-controller-3137-p.asp)

I have never used that site before but I've been in contact with them recently and they're really helpful. I just need to decide on either the Black or White R4 and then I'll be ordering from them.


----------



## 72bluenova

Go for the white R4 and switch the rings on the fans to white


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> Go for the white R4 and switch the ring to white


That's what I was thinking of doing but I'm not sure if it'll look good together because I don't have much White in my build.


----------



## Charlie--

Thanks for the info @VulgarDisplay88 , not sure if I will purchase from that company at the mo' - i just have a bad feeling.

As for the R4, a white one would be good, but that would end up costing a lot if you are going colour co-orientated, as you already have a lot of great (and expensive) kit which seems to be around the black n red colour.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Thanks for the info @VulgarDisplay88 , not sure if I will purchase from that company at the mo' - i just have a bad feeling.
> As for the R4, a white one would be good, but that would end up costing a lot if you are going colour co-orientated, as you already have a lot of great (and expensive) kit which seems to be around the black n red colour.


Fair enough. I think I'm just going to get the Black windowed version. Thanks


----------



## ZeVo

Got a question for you guys.

I am going to drill out the bottom hard drive cage around Christmas time since I will only be using one SSD and one HDD, but I don't know where I should mount them. I've seen people put it behind the motherboard tray and they put the HDD in the 3.5 bracket included, but I would rather have them in to be together. I've looked around and this is the best I could find:

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MM35A52CMB/

I don't know about the price. $30 for that? If anyone could recommend me doing another method or finding me a similar product I would appreciate it.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Got a question for you guys.
> I am going to drill out the bottom hard drive cage around Christmas time since I will only be using one SSD and one HDD, but I don't know where I should mount them. I've seen people put it behind the motherboard tray and they put the HDD in the 3.5 bracket included, but I would rather have them in to be together. I've looked around and this is the best I could find:
> http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other%20World%20Computing/MM35A52CMB/
> I don't know about the price. $30 for that? If anyone could recommend me doing another method or finding me a similar product I would appreciate it.


Mount the HDD in the included 3.5" adapter, and velcro the ssd to the bottom of the 5.25" cage


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Mount the HDD in the included 3.5" adapter, and velcro the ssd to the bottom of the 5.25" cage


I've seen that before too but I don't know. I would rather it have a more "professional" look than just to velcro the SSD. Thanks for the suggestion though.


----------



## ImToeKnee

Hey guys, quick question.

Can the H80 fit in the R4?

- Tony


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question.
> Can the H80 fit in the R4?
> - Tony


Yes,even the h100 will


----------



## Dev One

Best way to take out the HDD cage on the Define R3 anyone? Dremel available.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dev One*
> 
> Best way to take out the HDD cage on the Define R3 anyone? Dremel available.


Find the rivets that hold it and drill them.


----------



## athlon 64

So i have informations that fractal r4 will be in my country next week. Damn i will buy one!
But i was wondering would it be possible to take out both hard drive cages, put my wd green in te 5.25 bay and ssd in the back? And can i take the smaller 3 bay hdd cage from the bottom and put it on the top. Also i would take out the bigger cage.


----------



## ROM3000

Has anyone heard of when the side panel windows will be available in the USA? Thanks.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

According to an email response I had from Fractal Design, they should have been available by the end of October.


----------



## ImToeKnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Yes,even the h100 will


I've never seen anyone put the H80 on the exhaust









Will it be blocking the top fans?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> I've never seen anyone put the H80 on the exhaust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it be blocking the top fans?


I think it MIGHT block the rear roof fan but the front roof fan would be ok.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> I've never seen anyone put the H80 on the exhaust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it be blocking the top fans?


http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/992680/width/350/height/700/flags/LL

You don"t need the back fan


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> I've never seen anyone put the H80 on the exhaust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will it be blocking the top fans?


I'm gonna be doing that once the h80i becomes widely available









Yes It will block the top rear fan by a couple inches


----------



## athlon 64

Btw if you are watercooling a fantastic option is to take all the hdd cages out, you can put 2 hard drives in 5.25"s and 2 ssd"s in the back, and then pput a h100 on the intake in the front


----------



## ImToeKnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> I'm gonna be doing that once the h80i becomes widely available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes It will block the top rear fan by a couple inches


LOL at your name.

That sounds awesome, hook me up with some pics once you hook it up


----------



## ImToeKnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I think it MIGHT block the rear roof fan but the front roof fan would be ok.


MIGHT is a scary word while on a build..


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> So i have informations that fractal r4 will be in my country next week. Damn i will buy one!
> But i was wondering would it be possible to take out both hard drive cages, put my wd green in te 5.25 bay and ssd in the back? And can i take the smaller 3 bay hdd cage from the bottom and put it on the top. Also i would take out the bigger cage.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Btw if you are watercooling a fantastic option is to take all the hdd cages out, you can put 2 hard drives in 5.25"s and 2 ssd"s in the back, and then pput a h100 on the intake in the front


or you could make a custom bracket to mount hdd/ssd vertically, which i am working on right now.




Also core 3000 lacks a cutout for 8 pin power cable so i decided to fix that


----------



## ImToeKnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> or you could make a custom bracket to mount hdd/ssd vertically, which i am working on right now.
> 
> 
> Also core 3000 lacks a cutout for 8 pin power cable so i decided to fix that


Holy ****, thats awesome. Wish i could mod..


----------



## ZeVo

Indeed very awesome..


----------



## ebduncan

Ordered a Arc Midi this past week.

Not sure if i will like it, but at least it has cable management which my current case lacks.

Couldn't say no about the 69.99$ deal on the egg.


----------



## camp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> or you could make a custom bracket to mount hdd/ssd vertically, which i am working on right now.


Really like your sleeving - nice color combination!

Anyone have any experience sleeving a non-modular PSU without voiding the warranty? I tried pulling pins without the proper tool and it didn't work so well...


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *camp*
> 
> Really like your sleeving - nice color combination!
> Anyone have any experience sleeving a non-modular PSU without voiding the warranty? I tried pulling pins without the proper tool and it didn't work so well...


Thanx a lot!
I think resleeving a psu would void warranty even if you dont open the actual psu case. Manufacturers consider resleeving a dangerous modification


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> LOL at your name.
> That sounds awesome, hook me up with some pics once you hook it up


I'm just waiting for either newegg or amazon to start stocking them. Newegg has it listed on their site for $105 + free shipping, but is currently unavailable to buy. It'll already be cheaper than buying directly from corsair









But yeah I'll show some pics when I'm able to get it


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Thanx a lot!
> I think resleeving a psu would void warranty even if you dont open the actual psu case. Manufacturers consider resleeving a dangerous modification


Yup, warranty is voided as soon as you sleeve the first wire (even if you don't open the psu itself). I did one for a guy that was set on me not opening the psu. Best I could do:


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> Holy ****, thats awesome. Wish i could mod..


That is fantastic. But i think my wd green 2TB would run too cold if i had a fan pointed to it. Even passivley it dropes to 26-27C during winter witch is not healthy for hard drives.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> or you could make a custom bracket to mount hdd/ssd vertically, which i am working on right now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also core 3000 lacks a cutout for 8 pin power cable so i decided to fix that
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is dead sexy. I may have to steal that for my Arc Midi. I've been thinking about how I could mod the HDD cage for a better looking drive presentation. I've been


http://imgur.com/prqH3

, but haven't figured out a good way to do the drives yet. I'm just not sure if I have the space to fit two HDDs and an SSD like you did. I may have to grab the Silverstone slot load ODD/SSD caddy 5.25" bay adapter I've been eyeing and a nice slot load ODD to make it happen.

And since I want to show off the full sexiness of my Arc Midi, here it is:







I got tired of waiting for the Arc Midi windowed side panel, so I made my own. And try not to be jealous of my hand shooting at f/3.5 ISO 500 1/8 second or slower.


----------



## VHJC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> or you could make a custom bracket to mount hdd/ssd vertically, which i am working on right now.
> 
> 
> Also core 3000 lacks a cutout for 8 pin power cable so i decided to fix that


How did you made that bracket? What material did you use? I love the way it looks... almost the same look as the entire case with that black painting.

And my Core 3000 has a cutout for the 8 pin power cable, is a little tight to pass through the 8 pin cable, but by pulling pins and placing them back did the trick. I'll post a photo later, I don't know where is my camera


----------



## athlon 64

It actually doesn"T seem very hard to make. But it"s very usefull


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VHJC*
> 
> How did you made that bracket? What material did you use? I love the way it looks... almost the same look as the entire case with that black painting.
> And my Core 3000 has a cutout for the 8 pin power cable, is a little tight to pass through the 8 pin cable, but by pulling pins and placing them back did the trick. I'll post a photo later, I don't know where is my camera


i just had some piece of metal around, i think it was a side panel from some old antec case, so i cut it with a dremel, drilled some holes and then sprayed it with some flat black. Thick acrylic would work for that kind of bracket as well.

I am curious to see your core 3000 8 pin cutout - i guess you got a newer revision of that case, cause i bought mine awhile back, almost as soon as they came out.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Btw if you are watercooling a fantastic option is to take all the hdd cages out, you can put 2 hard drives in 5.25"s and 2 ssd"s in the back, and then pput a h100 on the intake in the front


Guess you seen that somewhere before


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Guess you seen that somewhere before


Hell yeah: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/img5610h.jpg/


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Hell yeah: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/img5610h.jpg/


----------



## athlon 64

*** >.< i didn"t even realise that is you, wen"t to pc expert and found a picture of yours own rig







,epic.


----------



## CaNsA

This is NobCat.
Define XL USB3 Titanium


----------



## ebduncan

clean build.

I would be putting mine together today, but i was disappointed by fedex.

Nov 9, 2012 9:59 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL
Nov 9, 2012 9:26 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL Package not due for delivery
Nov 9, 2012 7:37 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL

So its in my area, at the fedex place, could have gone out to delivery today but they decided to hold it. Because that would mean i would have gotten 2 day shipping instead of 3. < Crock of crap

Will post pictures of the build soon.


----------



## ImToeKnee

Just ordered the Arc Midi from newegg for $70!









One question, I have the H80, will it block the top fan(s)?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Just ordered the Arc Midi from newegg for $70!
> 
> One question, I have the H80, will it block the top fan(s)?


no. However you can always mount the H80 on the top.....


----------



## caffeinescandal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> clean build.
> I would be putting mine together today, but i was disappointed by fedex.
> Nov 9, 2012 9:59 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL
> Nov 9, 2012 9:26 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL Package not due for delivery
> Nov 9, 2012 7:37 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL
> So its in my area, at the fedex place, could have gone out to delivery today but they decided to hold it. Because that would mean i would have gotten 2 day shipping instead of 3. < Crock of crap
> Will post pictures of the build soon.


Really? I'm surprised they didn't just deliver it to you. I had a package that showed up today from FedEx. It was a package that was scheduled to get to me 11/14/2012.









Anyway clean builds so far. Just wanted to ask the R4 owners, what fans do you guys recommend for the front intake? I have a full drive bay and am looking to improve cooling somehow. I was thinking maybe a couple of 3000 RPM Gentle Typhoons?


----------



## corysti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> clean build.
> I would be putting mine together today, but i was disappointed by fedex.
> Nov 9, 2012 9:59 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL
> Nov 9, 2012 9:26 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL Package not due for delivery
> Nov 9, 2012 7:37 AM At local FedEx facility MADISON, AL
> So its in my area, at the fedex place, could have gone out to delivery today but they decided to hold it. Because that would mean i would have gotten 2 day shipping instead of 3. < Crock of crap
> Will post pictures of the build soon.


Should've just asked them if you could just come pick it up...


----------



## airdeano

so deano, can you put an ASUS maximus IV Extreme-Z motherboard in a Arc Midi?
Fractal Design says it doesn't fit..









your standard ATX motherboard is 12.0" tall by 9.6" wide
the extended ATX motherboard is 12.0" tall by 10.6" wide

due to the placement of the 24-pin, the grommets on fairly all of the motherboards i have
used in this case is so out-of-place. the lower is usually to frickin' low to use and the upper
is placed to high to keep a tidy line, so the alternative is to hoop over the motherboard tray
and blow-off the grommets. they really need to use three along the mobo line.
maybe a revision would be to extend the motherboard tray 1.5", use three cable
pass-through grommets and move them .625" towards the front panel. just an idea..

airdeano


----------



## ImToeKnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> no. However you can always mount the H80 on the top.....


Wait, it *won't* block the top fans?









Do you know anyone who mounts it on the top? Pics?


----------



## SkillzKillz

Mine shipped with UPS. It arrived dented and severely scratched, with part of the externally packaging torn to shreds.

The horror!


----------



## ImToeKnee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkillzKillz*
> 
> Mine shipped with UPS. It arrived dented and severely scratched, with part of the externally packaging torn to shreds.
> The horror!


UPS


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Should've just asked them if you could just come pick it up...


Not to worried about it. It will come when it comes. My system is already running in another case anyways. Its not water cooled though,

Its a big package of goodies. Case radiators, the works. I'm eager to get it. I will not however drive to the fedex place to pick my package up. They will bring it to me. Thankfully Fedex deliveres on Sat. If they don't plan to bring it tomorrow I will call and pick it up.


----------



## athlon 64

I didn"T get a reply so i"ll ask again. In the fractal R4 is it possible to take the small 3 hdd cage from the bottom and put it on the top? While removing the big cage


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> I didn"T get a reply so i"ll ask again. In the fractal R4 is it possible to take the small 3 hdd cage from the bottom and put it on the top? While removing the big cage


I think not because it's held by rivets on the bottom. It means you have to drill the top of the case.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> I didn"T get a reply so i"ll ask again. In the fractal R4 is it possible to take the small 3 hdd cage from the bottom and put it on the top? While removing the big cage


The small cage is secured using screws so it's not a problem to remove it but I'm unsure if it'll be able to be fitted underneath the optical drives without any modifications as I don't have one to look at.


----------



## athlon 64

I found a guy that put the cage on the top, i"ll ask him if he did any modding:





Also with the case do i get an adapter to put my wd green in the 5.25 bay because then i can put ssd in the back and use the case withouth both cages.

EDIT: actually in the video he explains how it"s possible to do it withouth moding....


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> I found a guy that put the cage on the top, i"ll ask him if he did any modding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also with the case do i get an adapter to put my wd green in the 5.25 bay because then i can put ssd in the back and use the case withouth both cages.
> EDIT: actually in the video he explains how it"s possible to do it withouth moding....


As far as I'm aware they don't supply a 5.25 adapter but I could be wrong.


----------



## athlon 64

Well since it seems to be possible to put the cage on the top it doesn"t matter. Also i can allways buy an adaper


----------



## winniethepwn

My midi shipped with the front i/o panel broken in several places. USB was severed, power LED was severed, whole fitment is off. Inquired about receiving a replacement, they responded same-day and gave me a form to fill out. Haven't heard back from them for a week. Does that mean they rejected my request for replacement?

Side panel fitment is horrible, I have to bang them extremely hard (giggity) to get them on.

I guess you get what you pay for. This case is amazing on paper, but I would have gone with something else given the chance.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> My midi shipped with the front i/o panel broken in several places. USB was severed, power LED was severed, whole fitment is off. Inquired about receiving a replacement, they responded same-day and gave me a form to fill out. Haven't heard back from them for a week. Does that mean they rejected my request for replacement?
> Side panel fitment is horrible, I have to bang them extremely hard (giggity) to get them on.
> I guess you get what you pay for. This case is amazing on paper, but I would have gone with something else given the chance.


Very odd they haven't responded yet. When they didn't send me any stand offs I emailed them and got a response within a couple of hours. The package came a day later. I think their support is amazing. Try emailing them again. However, I'll agree with you on the side panels. Mine took about 20 minutes to get off the first day I got it. I think I tried so hard to get it off one time that now the side panel is actually crooked. Still debating whether I should contact them about it..


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I have a dilemma that I'd like you lot to help me with please.

Windowed R4 in Titanium for £104 delivered.

Windowed R4 in White for £104 delivered.

Standard R4 in Black for £94 delivered.

I'm tempted to get the Windowed R4 in Titanium because it's only £10 dearer and it has the window but it has the Titanium front that I'm not a fan of but I'm thinking that I'll wrap that in Carbon.

I'm tempted to get the Windowed R4 in White because I was thinking about doing an Assassin's Creed theme (White, Black, Red)

But I'm also tempted to get the standard R4 because it's the colour that I'm used to BUT it has no window and they don't sell them separately in the UK yet as far as I'm know.

HELP PLEASE!


----------



## K4IKEN

Those are all good options really. IMO white cases look awesome, but I just can't see myself owning one. Draws too much attention I guess. If you do go with the solid side, you could always cut out your own custom window if you have the tools and know how. Last but not least, a carbon wrap would look pretty good on the front as well.

Guess it really depends on how much work your willing to do with the new case. Good luck! its a win, win, win in my book.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Yeah I think White looks awesome but my wife hates it. I'll go for the windowed R4 and wrap it I think. Thanks for your input. .


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> My midi shipped with the front i/o panel broken in several places. USB was severed, power LED was severed, whole fitment is off. Inquired about receiving a replacement, they responded same-day and gave me a form to fill out. Haven't heard back from them for a week. Does that mean they rejected my request for replacement?
> Side panel fitment is horrible, I have to bang them extremely hard (giggity) to get them on.
> I guess you get what you pay for. This case is amazing on paper, but I would have gone with something else given the chance.


That's odd that it's taken so long. I've had a pedestal foot, fan controller, fans, side panel, and thumbscrews all replaced without issue and quickly. I'd e-mail them again and see if it didn't just get lost. They're usually great about responding quickly, though they can be a little slow to let you know something shipped.

I find the case quality is actually pretty solid, but I think their machining might be slightly off. My case came with several stripped thumbscrews, the side panel sticks out a little past the front panel, the fan controller arrived dead, and a fan arced when I turned it on. The case itself is sturdy and solid and easy to work in. Coupled with how quickly they replaced stuff and did so without making a fuss about it (unlike some other companies I've dealt with), I can't complain.


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I have a dilemma that I'd like you lot to help me with please.
> Windowed R4 in Titanium for £104 delivered.
> Windowed R4 in White for £104 delivered.
> Standard R4 in Black for £94 delivered.
> I'm tempted to get the Windowed R4 in Titanium because it's only £10 dearer and it has the window but it has the Titanium front that I'm not a fan of but I'm thinking that I'll wrap that in Carbon.
> I'm tempted to get the Windowed R4 in White because I was thinking about doing an Assassin's Creed theme (White, Black, Red)
> But I'm also tempted to get the standard R4 because it's the colour that I'm used to BUT it has no window and they don't sell them separately in the UK yet as far as I'm know.
> HELP PLEASE!


I would say the Titanium R4 or as you have a lot of black and red components already in your current build you could easily do a black/red/white build with an R4 white case. I do think white cases look great, but IMO only in the right room setting. I know that it would not look right in my office as all the furniture is beech colour, if the desk was black then a white case would look awesome.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> I would say the Titanium R4 or as you have a lot of black and red components already in your current build you could easily do a black/red/white build with an R4 white case. I do think white cases look great, but IMO only in the right room setting. I know that it would not look right in my office as all the furniture is beech colour, if the desk was black then a white case would look awesome.


My desk is Pine so a white case wouldn't look too good on it.

Titanium it is then. I'll order it in a bit and hopefully you'll see it soon.

Thanks guys.

EDIT: Case bought


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> My desk is Pine so a white case wouldn't look too good on it.
> Titanium it is then. I'll order it in a bit and hopefully you'll see it soon.
> Thanks guys.
> EDIT: Case bought


Nice one, I look forward to the new photos - What's the ETA on your new R4 getting to you ???


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I have a dilemma that I'd like you lot to help me with please.
> Windowed R4 in Titanium for £104 delivered.
> Windowed R4 in White for £104 delivered.
> Standard R4 in Black for £94 delivered.
> I'm tempted to get the Windowed R4 in Titanium because it's only £10 dearer and it has the window but it has the Titanium front that I'm not a fan of but I'm thinking that I'll wrap that in Carbon.
> I'm tempted to get the Windowed R4 in White because I was thinking about doing an Assassin's Creed theme (White, Black, Red)
> But I'm also tempted to get the standard R4 because it's the colour that I'm used to BUT it has no window and they don't sell them separately in the UK yet as far as I'm know.
> HELP PLEASE!


I was gonna get the titanium r4 and wrap it in carbon but then the midi went on sale. :/

If you have the tools to make your own window, go for it. If not, it's not worth trying to find someone to borrow from or find someone to do it. The plus is you can choose the shape.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Nice one, I look forward to the new photos - What's the ETA on your new R4 getting to you ???


Should hopefully be here in a few days. I'll post a few pics when it arrives and a few more when I've moved everything over.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> I was gonna get the titanium r4 and wrap it in carbon but then the midi went on sale. :/
> If you have the tools to make your own window, go for it. If not, it's not worth trying to find someone to borrow from or find someone to do it. The plus is you can choose the shape.


I have the tools but not the patience







so i ordered the Windowed version.

I was initially planning on doing a Steampunk theme but quite a few people have been doing it recently so I decided not to. I'll just try to make it as clean as possible and maybe throw a few Assassin's Creed things in to make it a little different.


----------



## K4IKEN

Got both my LED strips in.. Going to be upgrading that PSU to an AX850 some time early next year. Until now the rainbow cables will have to do, I'm not trying to win any system modeling contest so I'm good with them like that.










GSIII night pics aren't the best.. deal with it.


----------



## athlon 64

Looks great,tell me what is the noise difference between windowed version and non windowed version of the case. I wanted to buy a non windowed one but i really like the nice and simple look of the window


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just bought an Icy Box IB-318StU3-B to put my noisy 1TB drive in so I can remove the hdd cages and put my SSDs behind the motherboard.

I'm tempted to put my Ezio Auditore figure in that space so it doesn't look so empty.



Spoiler: Figure


----------



## K4IKEN

If you do put the figure there, you won't be able to see it looking perpendicular to the side of the case. The window does a good job of cutting out the drive bay and cage area. You'll only be able to see that are if you view it from an angle with your head toward the rear of the case.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> If you do put the figure there, you won't be able to see it looking perpendicular to the side of the case. The window does a good job of cutting out the drive bay and cage area. You'll only be able to see that are if you view it from an angle with your head toward the rear of the case.


I'd only put it in there to take some pics and then remove it. Maybe in the future I could incorporate it properly.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Looks great,tell me what is the noise difference between windowed version and non windowed version of the case. I wanted to buy a non windowed one but i really like the nice and simple look of the window


I can't imagine it being that huge of a difference. I'm running the the stock corsair H50 fan in PWM mode and I just hear a gentle whoosh from moving air, the fan barely goes over 1000rpm though. For the first time I can actually hear my HDD tracking every once in awhile lol..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I'd only put it in there to take some pics and then remove it. Maybe in the future I could incorporate it properly.


Gothca.. Well then go for it! that is a huge space, but I'm hoping to fill it with a 280mm rad and pump/res combo in the future.


----------



## athlon 64

You can hear it? That"s not good


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Got both my LED strips in.. Going to be upgrading that PSU to an AX850 some time early next year. Until now the rainbow cables will have to do, I'm not trying to win any system modeling contest so I'm good with them like that.


You could as well buy some sleeving extensions. I would rather invest money into new CPU+motherboard, unless you're fine with your current setup.


----------



## Fulvin

I got a Core 1000 build on its way, but one thing is bugging me, and i found this to be perfect place to ask!







So, will my 680 Lightning go in there? On paper it should. As the card is 129mm wide and the case is 175mm, allthough im unaware of the inner diameters.


----------



## athlon 64

Also one more a bit stupid question, is i possible to remove the feet from the R4, and put it directly on the flor with no gap. I will not have intake fans on the bottom. I think it would look very neet if it was that low.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Also one more a bit stupid question, is i possible to remove the feet from the R4, and put it directly on the flor with no gap. I will not have intake fans on the bottom. I think it would look very neet if it was that low.


Yeah you can remove them but the bit that the fan filter slides into sticks out by about 3mm. Found that out after it damaged my desk


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> You could as well buy some sleeving extensions. I would rather invest money into new CPU+motherboard, unless you're fine with your current setup.


I can't justify the cost for extensions honestly haha, and the CPU/mobo are coming soon. I'm just waiting to see if any deals pop up on black Friday.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yeah you can remove them but the bit that the fan filter slides into sticks out by about 3mm. Found that out after it damaged my desk


Hahaha, well i keep it on the floor. I might try removing the feet and then sticking a bit of rubber on the bottom. I won"t be moving the case.


----------



## Charlie--

Just put a 3 LED blue strip inside at the top of my Arc and it looks good, also just tried with a white one and that looks good too but does show more detail where the blue is subtle. Not sure which one to keep, white or blue?


----------



## athlon 64

White !


----------



## K4IKEN

Try both?!


----------



## Charlie--

I am testing both at the mo'. I am thinking that I might rig it up with a switch so I can have it permanently like that and be able to select White/Off/Blue - Not sure on the best place for the switch.

TBH I really want the window panel for the Midi, before going much future with lighting etc. I'm getting fed up of waiting for them to be in stock somewhere.


----------



## Pupo

finally got my Node 304










work in progress


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> TBH I really want the window panel for the Midi, before going much future with lighting etc. I'm getting fed up of waiting for them to be in stock somewhere.


They had also announced a window side panel for the R3, but I've never seen it available anywhere to purchase... Which is part of the reason I jumped over to the R4 windowed version. The best you can do is hope... Or just make one yourself.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pupo*
> 
> finally got my Node 304
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> work in progress


That's a sweet little case







. Wish there was an option to put an optical drive in there. I would've used it for an htpc build.


----------



## Massive17

Hey guys,

I just ordered the R4. I will be using it as a 24/7 media server, but I will eventually stick a video card in there for gaming. My main goal is to keep my PC cool n' quiet.

I'm going to be using the Noctua C-14 and I was going to order a couple Noctua fans for the case. What do you guys recommend in regards to removing the sound dampening materials and using fans?

Also,

- Does Noctua have the quietest case fans? If not, what do you recommend?
- Other than installing 2 fans at the front, do you guys recommend installing fans at the top or on the side of the case?
- Are additional case fans even necessary? Are the fans that come with the case pretty good?

My main concern for now will be to keep my RAID card cool. This is my first build with lots of drives (6) and a RAID card which I hear gets very hot.

Sorry for all the questions. Figured I'd ask everything in one post.

Thanks!


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I just ordered the R4. I will be using it as a 24/7 media server, but I will eventually stick a video card in there for gaming. My main goal is to keep my PC cool n' quiet.
> I'm going to be using the Noctua C-14 and I was going to order a couple Noctua fans for the case. What do you guys recommend in regards to removing the sound dampening materials and using fans?
> Also,
> - Does Noctua have the quietest case fans? If not, what do you recommend?
> - Other than installing 2 fans at the front, do you guys recommend installing fans at the top or on the side of the case?
> - Are additional case fans even necessary? Are the fans that come with the case pretty good?
> My main concern for now will be to keep my RAID card cool. This is my first build with lots of drives (6) and a RAID card which I hear gets very hot.
> Sorry for all the questions. Figured I'd ask everything in one post.
> Thanks!


Well in 5-10 days i will order an R4 when it comes to my country. And in it will be my rig witch is a pc for work/gaming/multimedia, everything... And it will be running 24/7.
For now there will be going a 230w hot gtx470 inside with a windforce x3 cooler that blows hot air into case and i"m still not planning to have more then 3 fans because i want to make it inaudible.
So 2 fractal fans i will put in the front and in the back i will put a scythe slipstream 140 1200rpm. All 3 of them will be hooked to that controller. I know i"m not gonna have perfect temps but it should be quiet good and very very quiet. If you want you can put an intake fan on sidepannel to cool yours raid card but i don"t think it"s necessary.

EDIT: also, we expect some pictures when it arrives


----------



## Massive17

Thanks for sharing your setup. I will definitely post some pics as all the parts start to arrive later this week. I was also thinking about putting the Fractal exhaust fan in the front and getting something else to replace it. I just want to get something that pushes a lot of air and is quiet.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Massive17*
> 
> Thanks for sharing your setup. I will definitely post some pics as all the parts start to arrive later this week. I was also thinking about putting the Fractal exhaust fan in the front and getting something else to replace it. I just want to get something that pushes a lot of air and is quiet.


Well i think a slipstream 140 will work well for airflow.
And beeing able to put a 140 in the back is a big advantage because i can leave the top isolated then. I can"t wait for it to arrive in my country.
Should be here next week.


----------



## Massive17

Is this fan you're referring to?


----------



## athlon 64

In the top 2 sentences i"m refering to a fan. Lower to the R4


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> They had also announced a window side panel for the R3, but I've never seen it available anywhere to purchase... Which is part of the reason I jumped over to the R4 windowed version. The best you can do is hope... Or just make one yourself.


Noooooooooooooo! - I must admit I have not seen an R3 window panel for sale (not looked, but not one appeared when looking for the Arc Midi one) - I do hope they still going to make them, I would rather not make my own & I like their version.


----------



## winniethepwn

Midi with stock fans and the thermaltake 2.0 is louder than my old stacker832 with 14 fans. I don't _think_ it's pump noise. Sounds like lame-o fans.








Why does my life suck.


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> Midi with stock fans and the thermaltake 2.0 is louder than my old stacker832 with 14 fans. I don't _think_ it's pump noise. Sounds like lame-o fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why does my life suck.


If it makes you feel any better, my life sucks too.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> Midi with stock fans and the thermaltake 2.0 is louder than my old stacker832 with 14 fans. I don't _think_ it's pump noise. Sounds like lame-o fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why does my life suck.


My money is on the thermaltake fans. Unplug one of them and see if it makes a difference. I just changed out the stockers on my h100, they were the only thing I could hear in my rig.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just installed my HD103SJ in my Icy Dock and it's still noisy and vibrates like mad so I think I'm going to buy a new HDD when I get paid, put that in the Icy Dock and use it to store my Steam backups.

On the plus side my PC is now a lot quieter but I can't wait until my R4 gets here so it can be silent.


----------



## ebduncan

well just got everything put into the new case. I have bear hands and those thumb screws needed a screw driver sheesh lol. Not exactly sure what radiators I am going to buy. I am thinking dual 280 radiators. One on the top panel and one on the front panel. (will remove hard drive cages)


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> My money is on the thermaltake fans. Unplug one of them and see if it makes a difference. I just changed out the stockers on my h100, they were the only thing I could hear in my rig.


Indeed it is. They're running at 100% and I can't lower it--too lazy to install this fan controller I have sitting around.







At least they push a lot of air.

Has anyone mounted the included crappy fan controller anywhere non-standard? I'm looking for a place to maybe screw it in somewhere, but haven't found any.

Still waiting on a response from fractal regarding my IO panel... Hoping they just didn't bother to email me and it shows up on my doorstep in the next couple days.


----------



## GoneTurbo

All of my stuff come in today! I'm excited to get started on my first Fractal build









Any name suggestions for my Arc Midi?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> All of my stuff come in today! I'm excited to get started on my first Fractal build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any name suggestions for my Arc Midi?


Welcome to OCN and this club.

Use the Rigbuilder so we can see what components you're using then we can see if we can give it a good name.


----------



## TSXmike

Coming along nicely...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> Coming along nicely...






Looking good


----------



## winniethepwn

Work in progress. Still sleeving my extensions at a rate of like 1 single wire per hour...


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Work in progress. Still sleeving my extensions at a rate of like 1 single wire per hour...


haha. I am not even going to bother with sleeved cables. Going to order a new corsair PSU and buy the pre sleeved ones. They are only like 60$, and saves me the headache of actually doing, and prevents me from voiding my warranty on the PSU. Looking at the AX 860I.
Maybe when it goes on special or something. 250$ for a PSU is steep.

Not going for the prettiest rig in the world function>looks.


----------



## winniethepwn

That's why I went with XFX. Seasonic made at a very good price. My 750W was $70 AR (ncix tends to have good deals on xfx units). Only downside is none of them are modular.

Sleeving lets me catch up on tv shows, that's the only way I can keep my sanity.


----------



## CaNsA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> All of my stuff come in today! I'm excited to get started on my first Fractal build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any name suggestions for my Arc Midi?


Bacon


----------



## GoneTurbo

Hey guys, im having trouble removing the bottom cage on the Arc Midi.

Any help or methods?


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> Hey guys, im having trouble removing the bottom cage on the Arc Midi.
> Any help or methods?


Drill out the rivets.


----------



## CaNsA

What kind of trouble?


----------



## GoneTurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaNsA*
> 
> What kind of trouble?


I'm kind of scared to drill.

I don't want to accidentally ruin such a beautiful case


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> I'm kind of scared to drill.
> I don't want to accidentally ruin such a beautiful case


That's a fair point - What is the reason that you want to remove the bottom HDD cadge - Maybe there is a way you can leave it in there. You will need to drill it out like others have said if you don't want it there, the new R4 case is the only current one that uses screws rather than rivets on that part of the case.

As for your Arc Midi name - What about AMLO, that is a combo of Arc Midi & YOLO = Arc Midi Lives Once.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GoneTurbo*
> 
> I'm kind of scared to drill.
> I don't want to accidentally ruin such a beautiful case


If you're scared, just be careful and take your time. It's a pretty simple thing to do and tough to screw up.

Alternatively, you can try to pop the head off the rivet with a mallet and chisel or dremel it off and pop the body out. In either case, the only way to remove the cage involves taking some tools to your case that have the potential to mess it up.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I'm kind of scared to drill.
> I don't want to accidentally ruin such a beautiful case


Well you don't necessarily have to use a drill. If you have a small hack saw, you can slip the blade between the case frame and the hard drive cage and cut the rivet in half, then remove. Its really easy to drill a rivet out though. Another option would be to use a punch and a hammer and just hammer it out.. Though the last option would likely warp the case where you were hammering.


----------



## CaNsA

Put some masking tape over the area.
It wont protect the case if the drill bit slips, but it will help to prevent the bit slipping off the rivet in the 1st place.

Just take your time, and use a variable speed drill.


----------



## HiCZoK

Would Fractal 3000 be a good case for H60 cooling? I want ot get both soon for my recently completed 2500k, gigabyte 7870 setup


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Would Fractal 3000 be a good case for H60 cooling? I want ot get both soon for my recently completed 2500k, gigabyte 7870 setup


Yup. Plenty of air flow.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Would Fractal 3000 be a good case for H60 cooling? I want ot get both soon for my recently completed 2500k, gigabyte 7870 setup


Yep, I ran a setup very similar to this for a while. Although, I did have to file down about 1/2" of the hump on the inside of the side panel so it didn't grind up against my H60 if that makes sense. Aside that, the Core 3000 has plenty of airflow for this


----------



## GoneTurbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> If you're scared, just be careful and take your time. It's a pretty simple thing to do and tough to screw up.
> Alternatively, you can try to pop the head off the rivet with a mallet and chisel or dremel it off and pop the body out. In either case, the only way to remove the cage involves taking some tools to your case that have the potential to mess it up.


Success! Some scratches around the rivets, but I got them off!

Now the problem is i don't know where to mount the HDD.. didn't really think this through


----------



## 72bluenova

You have the option to mount 2.5" drives in the back of the MB tray, or you can buy the 5.25" adapters to mount 3.5" or 2.5" HDs up on top.


----------



## HiCZoK

Great, thanks for the answerws about h60.

What about macho tho ? Would it fit in 3000 or do i need arc midi ?
Fractal 300 is cheaper


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Success! Some scratches around the rivets, but I got them off!
> 
> Now the problem is i don't know where to mount the HDD.. didn't really think this through


you can mount the hard drive to the back of the motherboard tray. If you really want to. Even a non solid state drive will fit there. Or you can use adapters on the 5.25" bay. Another option is to get a piece of plexi glass or sheet metal, and make a mounting plate. Personally I have plans to just push the hard drive cage out a inch or so on the bottom, to mount a 280 radiator in the front. While my pump and reservoir will go on top of the drive cage.

I have a optical drive that i want to keep, so most of the dual bay reservoir will not work for me Another option is to get a single bay reservoir and pump setup.

Get creative with it. But the Arc Midi is prolly one of the best mid tower cases for water cooling.


----------



## Swiftes

Thinking of picking up the 3000 micro atx fractal case for a mates build. Its gonna be an audio production rig so really just needs to be compact and quiet, owners of the case, how do you rate it?









Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> Thinking of picking up the 3000 micro atx fractal case for a mates build. Its gonna be an audio production rig so really just needs to be compact and quiet, owners of the case, how do you rate it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2


I assume you mean the Core 1000. It's compact, but I wouldn't say it is the quietest. There's no sound dampening and the HDD rumble can be heard on their mounts. It's a $40 case though, so it won't offer much. I would rate it a 7/10 considering the price and what it has to offer.


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> Thinking of picking up the 3000 micro atx fractal case for a mates build. Its gonna be an audio production rig so really just needs to be compact and quiet, owners of the case, how do you rate it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you mean the Core 1000. It's compact, but I wouldn't say it is the quietest. There's no sound dampening and the HDD rumble can be heard on their mounts. It's a $40 case though, so it won't offer much. I would rate it a 7/10 considering the price and what it has to offer.
Click to expand...

That's the one! Was looking at the mid tower one too haha. Yeah I've been out the PC building game for a few years so just wanted to check around!

Thanks for your input









Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> That's the one! Was looking at the mid tower one too haha. Yeah I've been out the PC building game for a few years so just wanted to check around!
> Thanks for your input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2


I heard the Define Mini is built for silence (costs around $100 though), so I recommend getting input from Define Mini owners.


----------



## nervx

I have an R4 and looking to make it quieter but keep good airflow. The stock fans are noisy at 12v so i was thinking of moving them to the front at 5-7v. Now for the back and top i have two choices:

-Thermalright ty-140 using pwm on back + one corsair af-140 on top 7v
-af-140 on back and one on top both at 7v

im looking to avoid not only motor noise but wind noise. the blade design on the thermalright makes me think more air pressure thus more wind noise but i don't know. would the ty-140 move more air with less noise or should i save the extra $7 and get two corsair?


----------



## winniethepwn

I really want a midplate for the midi to cover my nonmodular psu, but I don't have a tool to my name.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nervx*
> 
> I have an R4 and looking to make it quieter but keep good airflow. The stock fans are noisy at 12v so i was thinking of moving them to the front at 5-7v. Now for the back and top i have two choices:
> 
> -Thermalright ty-140 using pwm on back + one corsair af-140 on top 7v
> -af-140 on back and one on top both at 7v
> 
> im looking to avoid not only motor noise but wind noise. the blade design on the thermalright makes me think more air pressure thus more wind noise but i don't know. would the ty-140 move more air with less noise or should i save the extra $7 and get two corsair?


There has to be something wrong with your fans, because the stock fans at 12v in my R4 are dead silent. Those AF series fans will be a lot louder than what your experiencing now.


----------



## NateRowley

Just got my R4 windowed in yesterday! It's one of the nicest cases I've had! Pics of my full setup will be here later! I'm more than happy with my first time buying fractal design and it won't be my last! SO EXCITED


----------



## nervx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> There has to be something wrong with your fans, because the stock fans at 12v in my R4 are dead silent. Those AF series fans will be a lot louder than what your experiencing now.


theres nothing wrong with the fans you must live in a noisy environment. there's a lot of air noise when the stock fans are at 12v.


----------



## K4IKEN

My apartment is pretty quiet actually. The roommates are usually studying at the library and my building is in the rear corner of the complex so not much ambient noise from outside.

What cpu cooler and what graphics card are you using? In the meantime, just look up fan testing videos on youtube.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

When I built my friends rig the stock fans were very quiet on 12v. A lot quieter than my AF140's.


----------



## nervx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> My apartment is pretty quiet actually. The roommates are usually studying at the library and my building is in the rear corner of the complex so not much ambient noise from outside.
> What cpu cooler and what graphics card are you using? In the meantime, just look up fan testing videos on youtube.


hr-02 with ty-140 and asus 670 gtx. turning the fans down to 5-7v you cant really hear the pc at all. 12v there is a fair bit of air noise. anandtech mentions it in their review you'll find others mention it as well. i guess some people are used to having constant white noise so they forget what true quiet is.

anyone know if the af-140s will start up at 5v?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> hr-02 with ty-140 and asus 670 gtx. turning the fans down to 5-7v you cant really hear the pc at all. 12v there is a fair bit of air noise. anandtech mentions it in their review you'll find others mention it as well. i guess some people are used to having constant white noise so they forget what true quiet is.
> 
> anyone know if the af-140s will start up at 5v?


only way to get true quiet is with passive heatsinks. Otherwise under 20db is considered to be silent. My Arc midi is quiet, but its not silent. Small hum of fans, that 99% of people would find acceptable. Now my Antec 920 with 120mm delta fans on the other hand can get noticed under load. Though with the software control it is still sub 35db. Unless its summer time and the a/c is not working then we are talking about blistering noise. 50-60db when the deltas go full speed.


----------



## mtraccer

Hello all just got a Fractal Arc Midi and I must say WOW this thing is a lot bang for the buck $69 with FREE shipping at Newegg is amazing for this feature set and quality, I do have a question for you midi owners out there, is it possible to mount a corsair AF140 in the front of the case? the fans are held in by clips I do have two of the stock 140 fans in the front but I kinda want to get something that pushes just a little more air nothing super loud if they do not fit anyone have any suggestions on fans either black or white ones pref. thanks for your help and I will be posting some pics of my new build here shortly.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtraccer*
> 
> Hello all just got a Fractal Arc Midi and I must say WOW this thing is a lot bang for the buck $69 with FREE shipping at Newegg is amazing for this feature set and quality, I do have a question for you midi owners out there, is it possible to mount a corsair AF140 in the front of the case? the fans are held in by clips I do have two of the stock 140 fans in the front but I kinda want to get something that pushes just a little more air nothing super loud if they do not fit anyone have any suggestions on fans either black or white ones pref. thanks for your help and I will be posting some pics of my new build here shortly.


Yes, they will fit. I am actually buying some in a couple of weeks.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Yes, they will fit. I am actually buying some in a couple of weeks.


I'm pretty darn sure they won't work. They have a frame similar to the Cougar Vortex which doesn't work in the front of the Arc Midi.


----------



## ZeVo

I asked someone who has them mounted in the front and they confirmed it would. I also should have asked whether they had to mod it at all to mount it..









http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/4670#post_18483675


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

They fit perfectly without any modifications. I'll post a pic later.


----------



## SkillzKillz

I finally have my Fractal R4 almost finished. But I face one silly problem. How on earth do I mount the hard drives?

My drives either seem too thick, or the screws provided aren't long enough (due to the threads only going halfway up the screw).


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkillzKillz*
> 
> I finally have my Fractal R4 almost finished. But I face one silly problem. How on earth do I mount the hard drives?
> My drives either seem too thick, or the screws provided aren't long enough (due to the threads only going halfway up the screw).


You're suppose to screw through the black anti-vibration rings on the drive trays


----------



## kim jong so ill

H80i installed. Looks hella sexy in my R4.


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> H80i installed. Looks hella sexy in my R4.


have you some photos from top ?


----------



## Dev One

Could the R4 window fit the R3?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dev One*
> 
> Could the R4 window fit the R3?


Sure, the windows side panel for R3 and R4 is the same.

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=96


----------



## Clockdripdoor

You _can_ put almost any fan into the front of an Arc Midi. Leave the clips there. I installed 2 Noctua HF-P14 FLX fans by drilling out holes for the rubber mounts. If you need pictures to see what I mean, let me know. It is possible and it is quite easy.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Sure, the windows side panel for R3 and R4 is the same.
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=96


I don't think the R3 and R4 panels are the same size.

The R4 and the Arc Midi are the same though.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> have you some photos from top ?


You mean a top view of my case?


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dev One*
> 
> Could the R4 window fit the R3?


That is a negative, sir.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I don't think the R3 and R4 panels are the same size.
> The R4 and the Arc Midi are the same though.


Oh, okay. I thought it was compatible because looking at the spec sheet it says that to door's dimensions are the same, see:
http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=96
http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=103


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Oh, okay. I thought it was compatible because looking at the spec sheet it says that to door's dimensions are the same, see:
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=96
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=103


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*


So its a typo on their website it seems.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> So its a typo on their website it seems.


I think you were looking at the package dimensions, not the actual panel dimensions themselves


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> I think you were looking at the package dimensions, not the actual panel dimensions themselves


Whoops...


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svtfast*
> 
> You _can_ put almost any fan into the front of an Arc Midi. Leave the clips there. I installed 2 Noctua HF-P14 FLX fans by drilling out holes for the rubber mounts. If you need pictures to see what I mean, let me know. It is possible and it is quite easy.


I would really appreciate it if you did post some pictures. Thanks!


----------



## kim jong so ill

Arc Midi deal @ Newegg today (ends after midnight). $60 with promo code EMCJJJA35

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007&nm_mc=EMC-GD111812&cm_mmc=EMC-GD111812-_-Index-_-ComputerCases-_-11352007-E04B


----------



## TheNovice

Did some cutting and drilling in my Fractal Design XL
Time for water....









\M


----------



## Swiftes

Right following my earlier post I can stretch the budget for my friends build and get a Fractal Arc Mini, now owners of the case, how do you rate it? It looks a lot of bang for my buck, and I'll throw some nice low rpm fans in, what's it like to work with?

Cheers in advance.

Sent from Andy C's trucker hat using Tapatalk.


----------



## ebduncan

Hey guys

Quick question for those who might know. I am upgrading my cooling my my Arc Midi. Currently using a Antec 920.

However I am getting ready to go full custom loop. I am trying to decide on the XSPC RX kit, However here's my question

I know the RX240 kit will fit just fine. The RX 360 kit will also fit but will require me not to use the top 5.25'" drive bay. My question is Should i get the 360 kit for the extra radiator space even if the last 120mm fan mount will not be used? (i could mount a fan but that means i could not have a optical drive) So would the RX240 kit be better than the RX 360 kit with only two 120mm fans installed? Pretty sure if i do the 360 radiator I would be limited to push only, as i wouldn't want to loose my last 5.25" drive bay. I could do Push/Pull with the Rx 240.

Perhaps the RS360 kit would be better due to its thinner radiator and i could do 3 push fans then.

I am currently leaning towards the RX240 kit, and doing push pull. I will likely be adding another dual 140mm radiator to the front anyways, but that would require a bit of work to remove the lower drive bay and relocate it to give space for the 140mmx2 radiator.

Suggestions? Going to be cooling the entire pc, Fx [email protected] 4.9, 7950, motherboard gigabyte ud3. Will be starting with just the CPU and add on to the system as i get other blocks/ radiators.


----------



## SirWooties

Will Fractal Design ever release a side panel window for the Arc Mini? I want one so bad


----------



## alrgeez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Arc Midi deal @ Newegg today (ends after midnight). $60 with promo code EMCJJJA35
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007&nm_mc=EMC-GD111812&cm_mmc=EMC-GD111812-_-Index-_-ComputerCases-_-11352007-E04B


thank you for posting this! +REP


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> Will Fractal Design ever release a side panel window for the Arc Mini? I want one so bad


Just make your own! It isn't as hard as some people say it is. If you don't have the tools or just don't want to do it, I'm guessing around Christmas time they'll have it.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alrgeez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Arc Midi deal @ Newegg today (ends after midnight). $60 with promo code EMCJJJA35
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352007&nm_mc=EMC-GD111812&cm_mmc=EMC-GD111812-_-Index-_-ComputerCases-_-11352007-E04B
> 
> 
> 
> thank you for posting this! +REP
Click to expand...

Nice avatar mane..









And that Midi deal is awesome, wish it was around when I was case shopping. Would have saved me a few bucks.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alrgeez*
> 
> thank you for posting this! +REP


no problem, and thanks for the +rep


----------



## mrrockwell

To cut, or not to cut, that is the question :/


to show of this



+paracord sleeving


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> To cut, or not to cut, that is the question :/
> 
> to show of this
> 
> +paracord sleeving


Man that looks REALLY interesting!!
want to see the cut








Btw the this hardware deserves looks on it!


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> You mean a top view of my case?


yes


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Man that looks REALLY interesting!!
> want to see the cut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw the this hardware deserves looks on it!


Hm. It's not that easy, I mean cutting is but the plexi window on top and the side with 140 holes for the fans is something else.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Hm. It's not that easy, I mean cutting is but the plexi window on top and the side with 140 holes for the fans is something else.


Yeah... I would just give it a try or if your temps don´t explode leve it without a fan...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> I think you were looking at the package dimensions, not the actual panel dimensions themselves


Sounds like the kind of ID - 10 - T error I make all the time.


----------



## NunoPinto

Hi all,
I'm a regular follower of this thread and now it's my turn












Sorry for the images but i don't have money to buy a better camera. xD


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NunoPinto*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm a regular follower of this thread and now it's my turn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the images but i don't have money to buy a better camera. xD


Nice and clean looking


----------



## creatinfreak

Hello everybody








First I must sorry for my english. Can I join the club? Here is my Arc midi build







Enjoy


----------



## cgull

welcome
nice looking rig, you should put details in your sig


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *creatinfreak*
> 
> Hello everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I must sorry for my english. Can I join the club? Here is my Arc midi build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy


Looks awesome *__*


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *creatinfreak*
> 
> Hello everybody
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First I must sorry for my english. Can I join the club? Here is my Arc midi build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy


Very nice build you have there. Super clean and neat.


----------



## For_the_moves

I just found out about the Fractal Core 1000 case from the NewEgg OCN vote. What's the best CPU cooler given the clearance size of 148mm? I'll be building another machine using the processor from my sig rig, with no OCing.


----------



## Meisseli

I will be joining you guys soon! Already got the build but havent got pictures yet..







tomorrow you have something to give your opinion for!


----------



## ZeVo

Can anyone recommend me a good 140mm fan for the Midi?


----------



## Meisseli

so here is what i promised you last night. its still not finished but have been working on it for so long that i wanted to get your opinion on this guys! THANKS!! Specs are below



Thank you for your opinions and advices, if you have something on mind that i could have done other way plz let me know!

Meisseli


----------



## CaNsA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Can anyone recommend me a good 140mm fan for the Midi?


Yo,

I have 3 x 120mm versions in my Define XL of these.
Whisper quiet and shift a decent amount of air.

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=Ultra%20Quiet%20Fan&model=AK-FN063


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaNsA*
> 
> Yo,
> I have 3 x 120mm versions in my Define XL of these.
> Whisper quiet and shift a decent amount of air.
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=Ultra%20Quiet%20Fan&model=AK-FN063


Really? I've read many reviews saying they are really loud and their specs are way off. I'll consider this one mainly because I don't like the yellow color:

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM%20Control&model=AK-FN062

Any other recommendations? I am looking mainly for fans with high CFM and under 30 dBA.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaNsA*
> 
> Yo,
> I have 3 x 120mm versions in my Define XL of these.
> Whisper quiet and shift a decent amount of air.
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=Ultra%20Quiet%20Fan&model=AK-FN063


Get a fancontroller for those! Makes a ****load of sound on max :S


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Get a fancontroller for those! Makes a ****load of sound on max :S


You have them? How do you like it? I'll be getting a fan controller regardless if the fan is silent or not, so I'm good if it is loud.

How about the Bgears 140mm? 1800 RPM is crazy, but I think at 7v they would be quieter and still move plenty of air.


----------



## MiiX

Well, I do like them, I had it on a H50 so that would be making some more noise than in a case-mount. They push lots of air, and works perfect for both case and rad-mounting. At the moment im using it on my test PSU that has a broken fan, works great









I changed the fans for Akasa Apache as the colorscheme diddnt match with the green/yellow color on the blades. I'd go for the fan as it can push lots of air if wanted and can also be pretty silent.

EDIT:
What about some Scythe AP-15's?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVurl=*
> You have them? How do you like it? I'll be getting a fan controller regardless if the fan is silent or not, so I'm good if it is loud.
> How about the Bgears 140mm? 1800 RPM is crazy, but I think at 7v they would be quieter and still move plenty of air.


I've got 4 of the Bgears 140mm fans in my arc midi on a fan controller. At 40 to 60% or so they aren't very noisy and push a bunch of air. At full speed they are super loud and push *****-tons of air! I got them to be rad fans for when I go under water, they have the *best* static pressure I've ever seen.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I've got 4 of the Bgears 140mm fans in my arc midi on a fan controller. At 40 to 60% or so they aren't very noisy and push a bunch of air. At full speed they are super loud and push *****-tons of air! I got them to be rad fans for when I go under water, they have the *best* static pressure I've ever seen.


The only bad thing I've ever heard about these fans are the noise, but with a fan controller that should be no problem. Do you experience any clicking with them?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Well, I do like them, I had it on a H50 so that would be making some more noise than in a case-mount. They push lots of air, and works perfect for both case and rad-mounting. At the moment im using it on my test PSU that has a broken fan, works great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I changed the fans for Akasa Apache as the colorscheme diddnt match with the green/yellow color on the blades. I'd go for the fan as it can push lots of air if wanted and can also be pretty silent.
> EDIT:
> What about some Scythe AP-15's?


If only the Midi could have a 120mm mount in the front, I would have bought the AP-15's as soon as I got the case. It is so much harder picking 140mm fans because there are less choices..

I also have another quick question.. if you had to choose between the AP-15 or Bgears for a rad, which would you pick in terms of performance?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> The only bad thing I've ever heard about these fans are the noise, but with a fan controller that should be no problem. Do you experience any clicking with them?


The only clicking I've had was the bottom-mounted fractal design OEM fan. It just started to randomly and I couldn't figure out why at first... seems like the center hub was sagging and making contact with the blade. Weird.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> If only the Midi could have a 120mm mount in the front, I would have bought the AP-15's as soon as I got the case. It is so much harder picking 140mm fans because there are less choices..
> I also have another quick question.. if you had to choose between the AP-15 or Bgears for a rad, which would you pick in terms of performance?


If you've a 120.X rad I'd use the AP-15 but if you have a 140.X rad I'd use either the Bgears or the Akasa Apache. I've got one of my Bgears attached to my H-50 with an adapter and I don't see any significant difference over the 120mm Scythe I used use with it.


----------



## ZeVo

Thanks for the reply!

I don't know why I asked AP-15 vs Bgears, I'm getting a H100i and I already knew it supports 120mm. Stupid me.









I'm leaning towards the Bgears, but Noctua I am also considering. They just released their 140mm square fan, which I'm excited about. I thought about it for a while, and the brown color wouldn't look that bad.


----------



## CaNsA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Really? I've read many reviews saying they are really loud and their specs are way off. I'll consider this one mainly because I don't like the yellow color:


Ya Really.

I have 3 in mine.
2 of which are on a push/pull for the antec 920 closed loop.

My avg noise level is 14db.


----------



## CaNsA




----------



## CaNsA




----------



## ArcticFire

heres my core 1000 sorry if pics are abit blurry dumb webcam sucks....


----------



## adridu59

B-Gears...aren't those just rebranded Yates ?


----------



## Janac

what colourful plexi should i install on core 3000?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> B-Gears...aren't those just rebranded Yates ?


I thought it was OKGEAR since they seem to have the same specs and model names. But, I could be wrong..

http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16835299001


----------



## DRlZZLE

My arc mini


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRlZZLE*
> 
> My arc mini


Check my rig your rigs big bro in someways..







do you have anything to recommend, hint, tips etc?

Your rig is very nice!

Meisseli


----------



## DRlZZLE

Not much work was put into mounting the 360 rad to the top.
45mm thick radiator fits like a glove. blocks a bit of the motherboard at the top, but i dont see any problem in that, i can take my whole loop out of the case in few minutes if i needed.
Had to drill the rivets in the optical bays, since i don't have a dremel, i left the top as is ( only blocking ~50-60% of the last 120mm fan.
Though if i will take that system apart someday again, i'll borrow one from a friend, could use some additional airflow from the top.
Right now working on a mod to get a lamptron fan controller front mounted, since i dont have 5.25" bays anymore i have to make a custom bracket to mount it in the front.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Really? I've read many reviews saying they are really loud and their specs are way off. I'll consider this one mainly because I don't like the yellow color:
> http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM%20Control&model=AK-FN062
> Any other recommendations? I am looking mainly for fans with high CFM and under 30 dBA.


Have a mate who put them in his new R4 and he's happy. He hooked them up with his CPU PWM fans with Gelid PWM splitter so their rpm runs up and down with cpu fans.

I've been doing this for over a year in my R2. All fans in mine are controlled by PWM signal from mobo CPU PWM fan socket. You just need fans of similar rpm ratings if you expect them to run same speed.

I am currently running 2x TY-143 (800-2500rpm) on cpu and 3x TY-140 (900-1300rpm) case intakes. Both will idle down close to 600rpm.

For an idea of what different fans will run I put in the below comparison of Thermalright TY-140/143 and Akasa FN053 (500-1500rpm). RPM will very some depending on filters, cooler resistance, etc. These were open space speed using same PWM signal on all 3 fans, then change speed/signal and check again. It is by no means a scientific test.
TY-140 TY-143 FN053
. rpm . . rpm . . rpm
. 625 . . 601. . 660
. 692 . . 680 . . 771
. 806 . . 792 . . 780
. 900 . . 990 . . 863
. 998 . 1269 . 1004
1100 . 1650 . 1208
1203 . 2000 . 1542
1300 . 2491 . 1744


----------



## doyll

I did some mods about a month ago an now have TY-140 fans in front instead of the 120mm that it came with.
http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/4430#post_18300815

Have sense made it much nicer. Will do some pics tomorrow.


----------



## ZeVo

Thanks for the reply doyll.

Have you ever used or heard anything good about Arctic fans?

http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/case-fans/73/arctic-f-pwm.html


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Thanks for the reply doyll.
> Have you ever used or heard anything good about Arctic fans?
> http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/case-fans/73/arctic-f-pwm.html


Round 6 Fan Testing (Working Thread)
Fans!!!! The most complete and comprehensive array of tests and benchmarks

Apparently from Tator Tot's Testings Arctic uses Rifle bearings and not FDB as they claim they are.

Their fans also appear in various fan roundups such as XBitLabs'.

They are fairly good have have an awesome value, I can find them for 5€ here (an AP-15 costs 14€, another good 120mm fan is 10-12€)


----------



## ZeVo

Thanks for the links, but I think I'll pass on them.

What about the NZXT FZ series fans? Does anyone own these or find some reviews on how they perform?


----------



## how2pingu

Going to be getting 2 new R4's for mine and my brother's new builds. Would you guys recommend adding a 3rd fan or is the stock cooling adequate enough?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Going to be getting 2 new R4's for mine and my brother's new builds. Would you guys recommend adding a 3rd fan or is the stock cooling adequate enough?


you couldn't be more vague.

what kind of systems?

Are they going to be overclocked?

makes a difference you know.


----------



## how2pingu

Oops, sorry.

Specs:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($93.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($189.90 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($329.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ Outlet PC)
Monitor: Dell U2412M 60Hz 24.0" Monitor ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)

The 2nd system will be the same but with a 7850 and lacking an SSD.
Will probably do a moderate overclock on the CPU, 4.2 GHz or something around there.

I plan on removing the top drive cages to optimize airflow, does it matter if the drives in the bottom cage don't have a fan blowing directly on them? Or will adding a fan there make a large difference?


----------



## ebduncan

stock cooling will be fine in that case.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRlZZLE*
> 
> My arc mini


Pretty damn nice!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Little update: The company that I purchased my R4 from have emailed me saying that they're still waiting to receive the case from their supplier so I'm tempted to cancel the order and buy the non-windowed R4 elsewhere.

I've ordered the Corsair AX760i to replace my noisy HX850 purely because it's Black and Red.

I've also ordered the H80i to replace my H100. I decided on the H80i so I can keep the vents in the roof covered and not have to worry about fitting a dust filter whilst still keeping the sleek look.

I'll be using 2x Corsair AF140 fans in the front and 2x SP120 High Performance fans on the H80i. If temps are a bit hot then I'll have a tinker with the fan layout but I think it'll be ok just using the 4 fans.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I thought it was OKGEAR since they seem to have the same specs and model names. But, I could be wrong..
> http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16835299001


OKGEAR looks just like a minor brand that doesn't manufacture anything. To me, those are Yates.


----------



## Nuddi

Hello, add me to the club.
I was bored today and modded my antec kuhler 620 with a swiftech 240 rad and reservoir
I really like the R4, just came back to pc´s after about 5 years of maccing. This rig was supposed to be a budget gaming rig for my son, but now I spend a lot off time planning what to buy next


----------



## ZeVo

Do you guys know what tools I would use to cut off the plastic lines in the front panel? Would wire cutter work?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Do you guys know what tools I would use to cut off the plastic lines in the front panel? Would wire cutter work?


I used side cutters to remove them then used some sand paper to make it smooth.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuddi*
> 
> Hello, add me to the club.
> I was bored today and modded my antec kuhler 620 with a swiftech 240 rad and reservoir
> I really like the R4, just came back to pc´s after about 5 years of maccing. This rig was supposed to be a budget gaming rig for my son, but now I spend a lot off time planning what to buy next


That looks quiet good.
pretty interesting


----------



## Nuddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> That looks quiet good.
> pretty interesting


I didn´t believe that the cheap-lowflow-pump would work, but it did...


----------



## Meisseli

Does anyone have Any ideas for my rig? Pics in the rig.. Thanks!!

Meisseli


----------



## winniethepwn

The midi looks so much better with the 24 pin wrapped around the side rather than through the cable hole. Same goes for the pci-e cables.

I need to get around to fixing that.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Does anyone have Any ideas for my rig? Pics in the rig.. Thanks!!
> Meisseli


Sleeve your cables?


----------



## mtraccer

Hello all again here's my addition to the Fractal fan club

The Corsair fan is only temp until my AF120 comes to replace the sp120 that it is also I will be plugging the fans on the h100 directly to the PSU behind the motherboard tray and clean up the wires. All in all I think it looks fairly tidy tho







Let me know what you all think.


----------



## cgull

nice , very tidy , black & white scheme with fans looks good too
obviously put some thought into it.
cable sleeving would be icing, but youve cable managed pretty well anyway:thumb:


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Sleeve your cables?


Yeah been thinking of that... Never done it before and was thinking of doing a some kind of shield for the psu ens of the cables something like in those CM cases but smaller.. Any ideas on that?

Thanks!!

Meisseli


----------



## dumafourlife

Sad I missed out on Newegg's Arc midi sale...


----------



## creatinfreak

Before added sleeving cables, two leds and cover 5,25 bay:

After:


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *creatinfreak*
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. One of the best I've seen on here


----------



## creatinfreak

Thanks a lot


----------



## ebduncan

i hope you have a window on your case.

I don't know why people will dress up the interior of their case, and have a solid side panel so no one can even see inside.

No window= Fail

Window= Very nice job ;-)


----------



## creatinfreak

Heh







I don't have window. But I will buy after my payment


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

R4 has arrived. It's awesome.

H80i has arrived. It's rubbish. Installed it to find that 3 out of the 4 screw holes that you need to install it on the case are stripped







so I have requested an RMA from the company I bought it from.

Re-build has been put on hold until I receive a new one which will probably be sometime next week


----------



## ZeVo

I bought the NH-D14 for $39.99 so I can't wait to get it and post some pictures. All my fans will be Noctua. While not many people like the color, I love it. Probably even sleeve my cables brown and vanilla near Christmas.

Anybody here have an ASUS Sabertooth Z77? It looks so sexy, but I've read some bad reviews on it. I think my rig would look so good with it, especially because the PCI-E is brown and vanilla, which would match my great looking Noctua fans.


----------



## K4IKEN

Finally got my battery charger for my D40 from home.. Took some shots; going to edit and upload soon.


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I bought the NH-D14 for $39.99 so I can't wait to get it and post some pictures. All my fans will be Noctua. While not many people like the color, I love it. Probably even sleeve my cables brown and vanilla near Christmas.
> Anybody here have an ASUS Sabertooth Z77? It looks so sexy, but I've read some bad reviews on it. I think my rig would look so good with it, especially because the PCI-E is brown and vanilla, which would match my great looking Noctua fans.


I got it and yes you are right, that board looks amazing!! That thermal armor it has is pretty good looking and i havent noticed anything worth whining about... Althou those mini stock fans get quite noisy when they are on so i use them only for after shutdown Heat removal. Have been thinking of replacing them will post some results and photos after that! Meanwhile take a look at my rig that board really is a beauty!

Meisseli


----------



## Pupo

tease


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> I got it and yes you are right, that board looks amazing!! That thermal armor it has is pretty good looking and i havent noticed anything worth whining about... Althou those mini stock fans get quite noisy when they are on so i use them only for after shutdown Heat removal. Have been thinking of replacing them will post some results and photos after that! Meanwhile take a look at my rig that board really is a beauty!
> Meisseli


Nice looking rig!

The fans is really the only complaint I have heard. Do you even need them? I wouldn't imagine the board getting extremely hot, or would it?


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Nice looking rig!
> The fans is really the only complaint I have heard. Do you even need them? I wouldn't imagine the board getting extremely hot, or would it?


I haven't even looked at them alot but when i have they are not High at all... I think they are not even needed and like i sais i have them disabled when comp is on and they start up when i shut down the comp and after that they run for 10minutes... When you get yours i Wanna see pics!

Meisseli


----------



## HiCZoK

Someone in the other topic, said me that 7870 gigabyte windforce won't fin in 3000 without taking cage off. Can anyone confirm?

or maybe get arc midi ?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> I haven't even looked at them alot but when i have they are not High at all... I think they are not even needed and like i sais i have them disabled when comp is on and they start up when i shut down the comp and after that they run for 10minutes... When you get yours i Wanna see pics!
> Meisseli


Thanks for the info.

Of course I'll post pics! I will probably get it around Christmas. Can't wait.


----------



## K4IKEN

Might not be as pretty as some, but I'm proud.









Looking to venture into WC'ing soon. Got to see what the cash flow is looking like.


----------



## camp

Quote:


> Might not be as pretty as some, but I'm proud.
> 
> Looking to venture into WC'ing soon. Got to see what the cash flow is looking like.


What kind of lighting do you have in there? Looks amazing!


----------



## alabrand

'Ello folks. Will a H100i fit in the front of an R4 alternatively in the top? I've seen several pictures of people with an H100 in the top although they did not use the holes intended. They simple shifted it a little bit to the left/right (depends on how you look a things). Will this work out or will I have to moun it in the front?

And if I did mount it in the front, will there be room for a Scythe Himuro in the bottom?


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alabrand*
> 
> 'Ello folks. Will a H100i fit in the front of an R4 alternatively in the top? I've seen several pictures of people with an H100 in the top although they did not use the holes intended. They simple shifted it a little bit to the left/right (depends on how you look a things). Will this work out or will I have to moun it in the front?
> And if I did mount it in the front, will there be room for a Scythe Himuro in the bottom?


Hi,

Yes it will I have done this with my R4 but I had to move the HDD cage inside the case. I do not have a photo to hand but I will post one later if you are still interested.

-Mike


----------



## athlon 64

Damn that up there is a beautifull R4. But tell me, i see you are using just one HDD, why did you not remove the cage and put the hdd in the 5.25 bay with the adapter?


----------



## Kerelm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might not be as pretty as some, but I'm proud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking to venture into WC'ing soon. Got to see what the cash flow is looking like.


I love the look of PC's captured with a nice wide lens!

what you using? ~10mm?


----------



## alabrand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAnticitizen1*
> 
> Hi,
> Yes it will I have done this with my R4 but I had to move the HDD cage inside the case. I do not have a photo to hand but I will post one later if you are still interested.
> -Mike


Much appreciated.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Someone in the other topic, said me that 7870 gigabyte windforce won't fin in 3000 without taking cage off. Can anyone confirm?
> or maybe get arc midi ?


Hi, I have the Core 3000.

Supports graphic card lengths up to 270mm when removable HDD-Bay is in place.
Supports graphic card lengths up to 420mm without removable HDD-Bay in taken out.

Note that only the upper drive bay can be removed unless you drill the lower cage's rivets.

Your card is only 24,5cm long I don't see any problem with it.


----------



## HiCZoK

thanks.
also - any reason I should pay more and get arc midi ?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> thanks.
> also - any reason I should pay more and get arc midi ?


More space for cablemanegement, little better build quality, MUCH more WC-possibilities and Design (what should always be the Point on deciding)

I´ve build in the Core 3000 and the Midi and you can´t go wrong


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> thanks.
> also - any reason I should pay more and get arc midi ?


The Arc Midi is quite bigger and heavier than the 3000 (I much like this case because for being only 200mm wide, however the cable management spacing will be a bit tight), has all fan holes sized at 140mm, ability to fit 3x140mm fans on top (or 360 rad), front USB 3.0, a bit better cable management (bigger holes and grommets, also the 3000 lacks P8 cable hole).

Other than that both chassis are very similar.


----------



## ebduncan

new pictures with the water loop now in.

I am going to grab a can of rattle paint, and paint all that white stuff, red. Its really starting to bother me haha.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> thanks.
> also - any reason I should pay more and get arc midi ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> More space for cablemanegement, little better build quality, MUCH more WC-possibilities and Design (what should always be the Point on deciding)
> I´ve build in the Core 3000 and the Midi and you can´t go wrong


I actually went with the 3000 based only on the overall size. I wanted the smallest case (at a reasonable price) that could fit a full atx mobo. Antec 300 is close in size, but doesn't have nearly the same options that this case has. Love mine.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> thanks.
> also - any reason I should pay more and get arc midi ?


fractal cases are great (i own two) but right now there is a Corsair 300R on sale from the newegg for $65 shipped ($50 after MIR) . For that price you get more features and a better cable management. Believe me i've built pc's with both cases.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139011

again fractal cases are awesome but 300r for 65 bucks shipped is a pretty good deal


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *camp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Might not be as pretty as some, but I'm proud.
> 
> Looking to venture into WC'ing soon. Got to see what the cash flow is looking like.
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of lighting do you have in there? Looks amazing!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm using 2 LED strips made by a member here on the forums.. One on the top and one on the bottom, Thinking of placing another behind the mobo tray to illuminate the side where the 24-pin wraps around. I really like the way that looks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Damn that up there is a beautifull R4. But tell me, i see you are using just one HDD, why did you not remove the cage and put the hdd in the 5.25 bay with the adapter?


Laziness honestly.







I might put it back up there and mount the SSD somewhere cool, I did notice a few degrees cooler without the cage though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerelm*
> 
> I love the look of PC's captured with a nice wide lens!
> 
> what you using? ~10mm?


I'm actually just using this cheap wide angle adapter on my 18-55mm D40 lens. RAW images and editing is your friend. lol


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alabrand*
> 
> Much appreciated.


As requested here are the pictures of a front facing H100 cooling a i7 3770k, this setup gets cooling tempratures of around 28-30c @ idle and a maximum reached of 40-45c under load (Fallout 3)




Note: The HDD cage is moved to the left you can see how far by looking at the original mounts under the 5.25 bays.


A shot of the front, the H100 includes some nice long screws which can fit though the fan filter & fans to reach the rad and clamp the whole setup together this is very sturdy despite the bottom fan only have two screws.

Sorry for the poor quality (taken on my HTC) also if you were wondering the silver usb cable is used as power for L.E.D light's on the inside of my windowed panel









Hope it helps!


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Thanks! I'm using 2 LED strips made by a member here on the forums.. One on the top and one on the bottom, Thinking of placing another behind the mobo tray to illuminate the side where the 24-pin wraps around. I really like the way that looks.
> Laziness honestly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might put it back up there and mount the SSD somewhere cool, I did notice a few degrees cooler without the cage though.
> I'm actually just using this cheap wide angle adapter on my 18-55mm D40 lens. RAW images and editing is your friend. lol


Well lower temps for hard drives are not allways good. It"s unhealthy for them to work under 30C , the best HDD operation temp is 35-42C


----------



## K4IKEN

Good news.. my HDD never gets that cold, it hovers in that temperature range so I'm set.


----------



## trendy

Anyone removed the 5.25'' drive bays in the Arc Mini? I'm thinking about removing them to put a 360mm rad in the front of the case.... but I'm not sure that it will work or be easy to remove them.


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trendy*
> 
> Anyone removed the 5.25'' drive bays in the Arc Mini? I'm thinking about removing them to put a 360mm rad in the front of the case.... but I'm not sure that it will work or be easy to remove them.


Search engine:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1329465/couple-of-arc-midi-questions

Pic from a different site (removing the upper drive bays)



Picture from: Abz Hussain


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Anyone removed the 5.25'' drive bays in the Arc Mini? I'm thinking about removing them to put a 360mm rad in the front of the case.... but I'm not sure that it will work or be easy to remove them.


Well i wouldn't put a 360 up front, But a 420 (140x3)

Otherwise i would just mount a 360 radiator (120x3) to the top of the case. Then you wouldn't need to remove the lower drive bay. Still would have to remove the top drive bays if you wanted to do push pull.


----------



## Hasdrubal

You'd have to get a pretty slim rad in order to keep the lower drive bay, as clearance is about 60 mm if I recall correctly.


----------



## athlon 64

well you need the bottom cage only if you are using more then 2 hard drives and 3 ssd"s.
You can use 5.25 adapter and install 2 hard drives in 5.25 bays and then you can instal 2 ssd"s in the back and one upside down below the 5.25 cage when you remove the plastic part that holds the hard drive cage in.


----------



## K4IKEN

Yes, I'm aware of all of that. If you look through my picture, you see that I've had the HDD in the 5.25 bay before. I don't like the look of the sata power cables coming into the case, so I had them turned toward the front so I could route them. Like I said I might put everything back up there when I have some free time, but how it sits now is perfectly fine. Can't even see it because of the awesome job Fractal did with the window.


----------



## catbuster

Has any1 installed himuro hdd cooler on the bottom of r4?


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yes, I'm aware of all of that. If you look through my picture, you see that I've had the HDD in the 5.25 bay before. I don't like the look of the sata power cables coming into the case, so I had them turned toward the front so I could route them. Like I said I might put everything back up there when I have some free time, but how it sits now is perfectly fine. Can't even see it because of the awesome job Fractal did with the window.


Well i don"t like cables out of the 5.25 bays too but what i like even less is an unecessary hdd cage







, i"ll buy a scythe bay rafter when i get an r4 and put my hdd up there.


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Well i don"t like cables out of the 5.25 bays too but what i like even less is an unecessary hdd cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , i"ll buy a scythe bay rafter when i get an r4 and put my hdd up there.


Could you not have the HDD's facing the front panel so the cables go towards the front cable and then sneak their way down inside the plastic?


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAnticitizen1*
> 
> Could you not have the HDD's facing the front panel so the cables go towards the front cable and then sneak their way down inside the plastic?


why didn"t that cross my mind







, good idea,

one more good idea here:






turn to 5:00 , he explains hot to put the small 3 drive cage on the top. It looks good and doesn"t block much air.


----------



## ben ten

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAnticitizen1*
> 
> As requested here are the pictures of a front facing H100 cooling a i7 3770k, this setup gets cooling tempratures of around 28-30c @ idle and a maximum reached of 40-45c under load (Fallout 3)
> 
> 
> Note: The HDD cage is moved to the left you can see how far by looking at the original mounts under the 5.25 bays.
> 
> A shot of the front, the H100 includes some nice long screws which can fit though the fan filter & fans to reach the rad and clamp the whole setup together this is very sturdy despite the bottom fan only have two screws.
> Sorry for the poor quality (taken on my HTC) also if you were wondering the silver usb cable is used as power for L.E.D light's on the inside of my windowed panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps!


Wow, it looks good! Nice job


----------



## winniethepwn

Finally got around to getting rid of the bottom HDD cage and removing the bar. Idling 1 degree lower CPU, 3 degrees GPU. Power switch on the replacement IO doesn't work. Don't GAF anymore. Not waiting for a third replacement. Poor little 4850 gets dwarfed. Still waiting on a 7950 deal.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ekg84

Guys got few updates for you:

1st of all thanx for a MOTM nomination









http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-nominations-closed-poll-up-the-1st/0_50

Voting begins today i think

i made few changes to my build:

Added front intake dust filter, installed new h60, second 570 with a new power supply.
Also made custom vertical bracket for HDD/SSD:


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Guys got few updates for you:
> 1st of all thanx for a MOTM nomination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-nominations-closed-poll-up-the-1st/0_50
> Voting begins today i think
> i made few changes to my build:
> Added front intake dust filter, installed new h60, second 570 with a new power supply.
> Also made custom vertical bracket for HDD/SSD:


Man you deserve the win!
Great work


----------



## athlon 64

So if you have a small screwdriver is it possible to instal a 2.5 SSD up there? Upside down?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/378e405d2cnjmv4.jpg/

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## catbuster

ekg84 dat core 3000 so damn sexy







gonna vote for it


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Guys got few updates for you:
> 1st of all thanx for a MOTM nomination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-nominations-closed-poll-up-the-1st/0_50
> Voting begins today i think
> i made few changes to my build:
> Added front intake dust filter, installed new h60, second 570 with a new power supply.
> Also made custom vertical bracket for HDD/SSD:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just voted for your Core 3000 mod - You've done a fantastic job there, I love it


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Guys got few updates for you:
> 1st of all thanx for a MOTM nomination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-nominations-closed-poll-up-the-1st/0_50
> Voting begins today i think
> i made few changes to my build:
> Added front intake dust filter, installed new h60, second 570 with a new power supply.
> Also made custom vertical bracket for HDD/SSD:


I prefer without grills







but it's simply amazing, i love the colors white, purple and black are very harmonious


----------



## Badwrench

Beautiful work ekg84.

Reworked mine a bit this morning. Nothing compared to ekg's, but wanted to try something different.

Built a couple brackets from some stainless mesh. Didn't paint them yet, as I want to make sure the temps are good. Changed out the white fans for some Xigmatek Blue led fans (from the Newegg Black Friday sale - color is more of a teal). Also changed out the yellow/purple/black sleeving for some teal/brown action to match the mobo.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> So if you have a small screwdriver is it possible to instal a 2.5 SSD up there? Upside down?
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/378e405d2cnjmv4.jpg/
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


I actually had the same idea a couple of months ago except with a HDD. I don't know if it would fit, but you could try and tell us if it would work.

I did some modding on the front panel and removed the plastic lines andwas wondering, do you think I should remove the middle bar as well?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Beautiful work ekg84.
> Reworked mine a bit this morning. Nothing compared to ekg's, but wanted to try something different.
> Built a couple brackets from some stainless mesh. Didn't paint them yet, as I want to make sure the temps are good. Changed out the white fans for some Xigmatek Blue led fans (from the Newegg Black Friday sale - color is more of a teal). Also changed out the yellow/purple/black sleeving for some teal/brown action to match the mobo.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good so far.
Are you going to remove the filtering in front of the lower front fan?
Would be interested in the temperatures btw..


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Beautiful work ekg84.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Just voted for your Core 3000 mod - You've done a fantastic job there, I love it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> ekg84 dat core 3000 so damn sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna vote for it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Man you deserve the win!
> Great work


Thanx a lot guys! I think poll just went live


----------



## dbterp

Stunning. I've seen older versions of this build and it's still one of my favorites


----------



## CrypticBox

I just ordered this case and I really like the front led fans you've got going. But is there anyway to remove those black bar things behind the front mesh and in front of the fans? I think it would look cooler if the leds were completely unobstructed except for the honeycomb mesh


----------



## CrypticBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


I just ordered this case and I really like the front led fans you've got going. But is there anyway to remove those black bar things behind the front mesh and in front of the fans? I think it would look cooler if the leds were completely unobstructed except for the honeycomb mesh


----------



## AbdullahG

The black bars in the front panel cannot be removed unfortunately. They have to be cut off.


----------



## HiCZoK

Is arc midi available with window or can it only be bought separetely ?
With window it would be an instabuy for me but I can't find anything in Poland


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> So if you have a small screwdriver is it possible to instal a 2.5 SSD up there? Upside down?
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/441/378e405d2cnjmv4.jpg/
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


To be honest, I didn't even think of trying. My SSD is already stuck down with 3M so maybe someone else can try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Is arc midi available with window or can it only be bought separetely ?
> With window it would be an instabuy for me but I can't find anything in Poland


There is a window, but I have no idea where it's sold. Last I heard some european vendor had them, and that FD was soon going to ship them out to more vendors.


----------



## Techn0

Hello guys here is my arc midi

what I have in plan: sleeve psu cabels to blue/white, paint grills to purple or blue, and to see if make raid 0 or to throw both cages out and put this hdd in 5,25" slot, enjoy









(i can't remove the top hdd cage because the bottom screw wont come out, and


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> Hello guys here is my arc midi
> what I have in plan: sleeve psu cabels to blue/white, paint grills to purple or blue, and to see if make raid 0 or to throw both cages out and put this hdd in 5,25" slot, enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (i can't remove the top hdd cage because the bottom screw wont come out, and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good one








Like the idea of sleeving the psu.
You could give your cooler (skythe ninja?) also a paint. I´ve done it with my Mugen 2 and it´s not hard actually.
BTW putting HDDs in the 5,25 bay, lets everything look much better imo.


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Good one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the idea of sleeving the psu.
> You could give your cooler (skythe ninja?) also a paint. I´ve done it with my Mugen 2 and it´s not hard actually.
> BTW putting HDDs in the 5,25 bay, lets everything look much better imo.


thanks, as i mention before, i can't get the top hdd cage out, I will see about that, also I was wondering could I get front;side;top panels from fractal design for free so i can mod it?
and what do u think about these fans thanks


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> thanks, as i mention before, i can't get the top hdd cage out, I will see about that, also I was wondering could I get front;side;top panels from fractal design for free so i can mod it?
> and what do u think about these fans thanks


I don´t know exactly..
I became them because the upper one has scratched my case and the lower 5,25 bay cam with some scratches too -__-
So I got booth spare would send it over to you but I live in Germany that would make it difficult..


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I don´t know exactly..
> I became them because the upper one has scratched my case and the lower 5,25 bay cam with some scratches too -__-
> So I got booth spare would send it over to you but I live in Germany that would make it difficult..


maybe u can send that photos to me, and then i will send that photos to fractal design and get spare panels


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

For those on the fence for the Midi, currently the lowest I've seen at $50 FS!

[SOLD OUT]


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> For those on the fence for the Midi, currently the lowest I've seen at $50 FS!
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?SID=_RMOVDyFEeKMIHrE6lFVEwI2F3_MV3K3_0_0_0&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16811352007


i hate you, i could not resist on this and i dont even need one


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> For those on the fence for the Midi, currently the lowest I've seen at $50 FS!
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?SID=_RMOVDyFEeKMIHrE6lFVEwI2F3_MV3K3_0_0_0&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16811352007


woah good price. I got mine for 69.99 with free shipping, and i thought that was a good deal! Quality case. I love mine.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> For those on the fence for the Midi, currently the lowest I've seen at $50 FS!
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?SID=_RMOVDyFEeKMIHrE6lFVEwI2F3_MV3K3_0_0_0&AID=10440897&PID=1225267&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-cables-_-na-_-na&Item=N82E16811352007


I'm an absolute sucker...I had forgotten that my wallet can have a mind of its own







...but I'm *HAPPY* this time









*EDIT:*
*Whoa*







Now that case sold out quick







...So glad I was able to get mine


----------



## meridius

Hi all

Anyone know if the seasonic platinum x860 psu will fit into a fractal xl case with plenty of room for the cables ? And if yes any pictures

Thanks


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meridius*
> 
> Hi all
> Anyone know if the seasonic platinum x860 psu will fit into a fractal xl case with plenty of room for the cables ? And if yes any pictures
> Thanks


That psu is only 160mm long...XL case supports psu's up to 180mm. Don't need pics to show proof...just check out the spec on the site... http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=9&prod=54


----------



## meridius

Thanks for that. Just one more question would you think it would need a power extension to the top of the motherboard


----------



## HiCZoK

I am still having a hard time deciding between 3000 and arc midi.
Midi is a bit too wide for my needs but 300 doesn't have filtered top.

both have 3 fans, filtered front and bottom etc. 3000 is cheaper.
Is there a window for 3000 ?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> I am still having a hard time deciding between 3000 and arc midi.
> Midi is a bit too wide for my needs but 300 doesn't have filtered top.
> both have 3 fans, filtered front and bottom etc. 3000 is cheaper.
> Is there a window for 3000 ?


Yes, every case has, if modded







None from FD


----------



## BBEG

Would someone mind posting pictures of the front fan mounts for the R4? I'm buying the case this week but I'd like to confirm that both fan mounts are 140mm / 120mm; the idea is to use two Gentle Typhoons up front and for some silly reason not a single review or even the Fractal site confirms that both front mounts can fit 120mm fans. They probably do, but I'd like to be sure.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Haven't got a picture but I can confirm that they're 140/120mm. 140mm fans use a little rubber nipple in each corner to hold them in place and you can also use 2 screws. 120mm fans use 4 screws.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Double post. Sorry.


----------



## BBEG

Excellent, thank you. I'd bug you more about the mounting bracket thing but I'll learn more about that when I get mine in.


----------



## catbuster

R4 black pearl still not in stock, delayed till tomorow, lol i am mad


----------



## HiCZoK

How about going fractal node 605 ?

I never had horizontal case. Can someone tell me how long it is? That mean how wide desk I need?


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> How about going fractal node 605 ?
> I never had horizontal case. Can someone tell me how long it is? That mean how wide desk I need?


From Fractal Designs website:

■Case dimensions (W x H x D): 445 x 164 x 349 mm (excluding front panel - 440 x 162 x 341 mm)

http://fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=95


----------



## Techn0

can you ask fractal design for free case parts or they give parts only if that parts are broken by shipment?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> can you ask fractal design for free case parts or they give parts only if that parts are broken by shipment?


Yes, they will replace defect parts from shipping, also called DOA.


----------



## BBEG

R4 owners, would anyone mind chiming in with specs for the included fan controller? I'd like to know if it can handle pairs of Gentle Typhoons on each channel or if I ought to use the 5.25 bay for a slightly larger fan controller. Which influences where I put my 3.5" HDD, since I'd like to remove the drive cages for a radiator...


----------



## mrrockwell

I used 5 fans connected to controler and evrything was fine.


----------



## Techn0

my arc midi fan controler died, its on max but fans not spining, alsow tried on diffrent molex, nothing, now tha fans are on motherbrd


----------



## Techn0

my arc midi fan controler died, its on max but fans not spining, alsow tried on diffrent molex, nothing, now tha fans are on motherbrd


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Still waiting for my replacement H80i to arrive









I've installed everything else but hit a slight snag when I realized that I had underestimated how many of my devices use Molex.

I am using 4 of these (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-204-BX) that are connected to the 4x Molex cable from the PSU.

The problem became apparent when I went to connect the built in fan controller and realized I had ran out and I didn't want to attach a second 4x Molex just to power one device.

The solution was to install my Bitfenix Recon fan controller which has a Molex pass through but it also brought with it a huge amount of cables









I have tried to keep it as neat as possible but I'm really not happy with it so I'll probably redo it all again when the new H80i arrives.

I'm also going to order sleeved cables for the AX760i. Shall I go Black or Red?


----------



## alrgeez

jumped on the $50 newegg deal and am very impressed with this case. has a lot of features that my corsair 650d has. anybody know if fractal will sell the 2.5/3.5 to 5.25 bracket separately? thinking of deleting the bottom hdd cage altogether and moving my hdd up top to the optical bays.


----------



## CrypticBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> The black bars in the front panel cannot be removed unfortunately. They have to be cut off.


Ah okay : /
How exactly would I go about doing that? Do I just cut with a pair of scissors or a knife? Or is there a more careful, precise method I should go about it with?


----------



## anteante

I´m thinking of to try out the smaller version of the Fractal Arc and wonder if a 2x140 will fit in the front and a 1x120 in the back and 2x120 radiator in the roof?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrypticBox*
> 
> Ah okay : /
> How exactly would I go about doing that? Do I just cut with a pair of scissors or a knife? Or is there a more careful, precise method I should go about it with?


I used a pair of side cutters and then sanded the edges down.


----------



## alrgeez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrypticBox*
> 
> Ah okay : /
> How exactly would I go about doing that? Do I just cut with a pair of scissors or a knife? Or is there a more careful, precise method I should go about it with?


just did mine yesterday. i cut the front grill with a rotary tool with cutting disc. great investment if you don't own one.


----------



## ekg84

Guys, thank you for your support, just to let you know voting on Mod Of the Month ends on Dec 7th









Please vote for the build you like the most !
Thread is here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50

Here is a final revision Of my Core 3000 Build, now with painted sli bridge and tightened cables:


----------



## winniethepwn

Awesome photography. Wish I could do that.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> Awesome photography. Wish I could do that.


Yes you can!









And you dont even need an expensive camera - i used 4 year old 5 Megapixel Fujifilm camera to take these shots. Just check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig/0_50

AND DONT FORGET TO VOTE









http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


----------



## adi518

ekg84 has done it again. Looks like you were busy shopping on black friday.









Looks like, you switched power supplies? Which one is it? Looks like it's fully modular...


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> ekg84 has done it again. Looks like you were busy shopping on black friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like, you switched power supplies? Which one is it? Looks like it's fully modular...


haha, you know the drill man you can never get away without buying smth with all these good deals going on. This psu costed me like 25 bucks, i mean its not the best unit out there - its an Ultra X4 750w. But hey for the price it pretty good. It was open box with couple missing cables.


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Yes you can!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you dont even need an expensive camera - i used 4 year old 5 Megapixel Fujifilm camera to take these shots. Just check out this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig/0_50
> AND DONT FORGET TO VOTE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1325588/november-2012-mod-of-the-month-poll-up-vote-now/0_50


Never had a reason to buy a camera.







I long for the day our phones have add on lenses and what-not.


----------



## johnnyw

Few pics of my R4 build.


----------



## athlon 64

Looks great, i"d really like to see those LED fans removed and replaced with some quiet noctuas







, also put the hdd in the 5.25 bays and ssd in the back so you can get rid of that cage.


----------



## johnnyw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Looks great, i"d really like to see those LED fans removed and replaced with some quiet noctuas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , also put the hdd in the 5.25 bays and ssd in the back so you can get rid of that cage.


Ye those spectre pro fans are from my old build and will replace those with Corsair SP120 fans at at some point. HDD i probably wont move as then would need to buy some encosure, most of those 3.5->5.25 hdd adapters causes huge vibrations = noise.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> most of those 3.5->5.25 hdd adapters causes huge vibrations = noise.


Try these. They are scythe and work great. No vibrations whatsoever.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnnyw*
> 
> Ye those spectre pro fans are from my old build and will replace those with Corsair SP120 fans at at some point. HDD i probably wont move as then wooul need to buy some encosure, most of those 3.5->5.25 hdd adapters causes huge vibrations = noise.


Yes, those fans are fantastic!

I planned to buy a scythe himuro witch should reuce noise and vibrations. I have a single wd green so it"s not a big problem. I was also thinking about this: http://www.links.hr/?naziv=bay-rafter-scythe-omogucuje-montazu-3-5-diska-u-5-25-bay&option=artikl&id_kategorija=051518&id_artikl=051.518.041

But i don"t know is it any good.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Yes, those fans are fantastic!
> I planned to buy a scythe himuro witch should reuce noise and vibrations. I have a single wd green so it"s not a big problem. I was also thinking about this: http://www.links.hr/?naziv=bay-rafter-scythe-omogucuje-montazu-3-5-diska-u-5-25-bay&option=artikl&id_kategorija=051518&id_artikl=051.518.041
> But i don"t know is it any good.


Nope. No vibration dampening.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> haha, you know the drill man you can never get away without buying smth with all these good deals going on. This psu costed me like 25 bucks, i mean its not the best unit out there - its an Ultra X4 750w. But hey for the price it pretty good. It was open box with couple missing cables.












Got myself new ram, at last. G.Skill Snipers @ 1866 mhz, CL9. 16 gig kit (4x4) for 59$ shipped, off the Egg. Finally some nice looking ram to replace my value Kingstons.

Check my project log, some great updates coming soon! Needless to mention I got a lot of inspiration from the Core 3000 log and other rigs encountered on OCN.









Trying to fit the R4 with Lian Li wheels now:


----------



## kim jong so ill

Anyone order this fan controller yet?


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Anyone order this fan controller yet?


ebay link?


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Nope. No vibration dampening.


But a himuro should be great right?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> maybe u can send that photos to me, and then i will send that photos to fractal design and get spare panels


You´ve got some pics in your inbox


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> You´ve got some pics in your inbox


+1 rep


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Anyone order this fan controller yet?


i might buy one soon.

I've been looking for a red back light fan controller for awhile. (to match my theme)

but i might just go ahead and get this one as it will match the bezel.


----------



## HiCZoK

ok guys. For 99% I am ordering Core 3000 tomorrow







Thanks to it being smaller than arc midi and thanks to its price.

Now, I need to order one more thing for my rig to be fully finished. I don't want to steal the topic, but what 2500k cooler would be a good suite for fractal 3000?

I am not sure if I have enough for closed loops like h60 or h80, but just maybe I could go with air cooling? Which one should I get? Maybe Macho? or true spirit 140?
Any good price.performance coolers on the market which would fit in this case?


----------



## ampy60

The Hyper 212 is never a bad choice though I'm not certain if it fits in the Core 3000. I like the Enermax ETD T60 as well, it cools just as well if not better than the Hyper 212 but is a top down cooler.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> ok guys. For 99% I am ordering Core 3000 tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks to it being smaller than arc midi and thanks to its price.
> Now, I need to order one more thing for my rig to be fully finished. I don't want to steal the topic, but what 2500k cooler would be a good suite for fractal 3000?
> I am not sure if I have enough for closed loops like h60 or h80, but just maybe I could go with air cooling? Which one should I get? Maybe Macho? or true spirit 140?
> Any good price.performance coolers on the market which would fit in this case?


Former Core 3000 owner here, and I did use the H60 in mine. I had no problems with it except I did have to file down a part of the side panel. The lip of the side panel needs to be filed down like half an inch in from the edge otherwise it will grind up against the H60 when taking it on and off. Other than that, works fine


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> ebay link?


I've only seen it at ncix so far. http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=75062
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i might buy one soon.
> I've been looking for a red back light fan controller for awhile. (to match my theme)
> but i might just go ahead and get this one as it will match the bezel.


Post some pics if you decide to get it. I'd like to see this in a rig


----------



## catbuster

ok ppl i need your help i love fractal cases i wanted to order r4 black pearl, but the date was pushed back to 2012-12-26. I dont want gray one or white







do u think arc midi would be a good choice? I am really looking for silence out here


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ampy60*
> 
> The Hyper 212 is never a bad choice though I'm not certain if it fits in the Core 3000. I like the Enermax ETD T60 as well, it cools just as well if not better than the Hyper 212 but is a top down cooler.


I was running a 212EVO before the H100 and it fit just fine


----------



## mrrockwell

Windows mod teaser


----------



## Chickenman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> ok ppl i need your help i love fractal cases i wanted to order r4 black pearl, but the date was pushed back to 2012-12-26. I dont want gray one or white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do u think arc midi would be a good choice? I am really looking for silence out here


The arcs aren't made with silence in mind - lots of mesh etc.

Be patient, surely you can wait a couple of weeks?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Windows mod teaser


You've done it








Looks amazing


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Windows mod teaser


Very nice! the window shape reminds me of a Fantom case a bit








Great job, looks sharp!


----------



## ekg84

BTW Guys im only 15 votes behind at MOTM, need some more votes from fellow fractal owners to take the lead!

VOTE HERE PLEASE!!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> +1 rep


thanks


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> ok ppl i need your help i love fractal cases i wanted to order r4 black pearl, but the date was pushed back to 2012-12-26. I dont want gray one or white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> do u think arc midi would be a good choice? I am really looking for silence out here


You can´t go REALLY silent with a gaming rig in a ARC-Case but you can go semipassiv, if your not in gaming and so on.
(



 )
If you´re going to game AND want silence you should go with the Define..


----------



## ad3ath

Watercooled Midi, silent. Midi with D-14 and 5 fans at 700rpm, very quiet, not silent, but not far off.


----------



## winniethepwn

I find it impossible to get the bottom latches on the side panel to actually grab on the Midi unless it's laying down on its side and I'm putting my whole body weight on it. Any tips on getting the frickin door on properly? The bottom is starting to get all scratched up.

The right side panel fits on perfectly fine. No parts seem to be bent or broken off.

It also takes a crapload of effort to get the panel off compared to what I'm seeing in videos. Linus did it with one hand, holding a camera.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> I find it impossible to get the bottom latches on the side panel to actually grab on the Midi unless it's laying down on its side and I'm putting my whole body weight on it. Any tips on getting the frickin door on properly? The bottom is starting to get all scratched up.
> The right side panel fits on perfectly fine. No parts seem to be bent or broken off.
> It also takes a crapload of effort to get the panel off compared to what I'm seeing in videos. Linus did it with one hand, holding a camera.


I had the same problem.

You have to bend the taps (which secure the pannel the case) just a little out.
I can't send you a pic at the moment but you'll see which tabs I mean because they should be already scratched.

EDIT:


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> BTW Guys im only 15 votes behind at MOTM, need some more votes from fellow fractal owners to take the lead!
> VOTE HERE PLEASE!!


Voted









and did you spray paint the sli bridge?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Windows mod teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice!


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Voted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did you spray paint the sli bridge?


yes i did







i had an old hard sli bridge, so i just sprayed it with some flat black

BTW ITS EVEN GUYS











VOTE VOTE VOTE MY FELLOW FRACTAL OWNERS!


----------



## Charlie--

You are now in the lead with 140 votes









P.S. The SLI bridge does look miles better painted


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I had the same problem.
> You have to bend the taps (which secure the pannel the case) just a little out.
> I can't send you a pic at the moment but you'll see which tabs I mean because they should be already scratched.
> I'm going to post pics when I'm back home.
> Hope I could help you this way


Thanks, I appreciate it.

Still too tight to take off with 1 hand, but at least it's on there.


----------



## grassh0ppa

I may finally get a fractal case... Wanted to get it with my initial build, but I'm glad I couldn't afford it because the R4 is the perfect combo of what I liked about the Midi and R3. Are the new R2 fractal fans any good? Any other black and white fans to suggest?


----------



## K4IKEN

I like them simply because they are so quiet at 12v, but they barely move air. Thinking about picking up some BGears personally as I plan to WC in the future.

As for white/black fans:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_1085&products_id=34714


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Voted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and did you spray paint the sli bridge?
> 
> 
> 
> yes i did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had an old hard sli bridge, so i just sprayed it with some flat black
> 
> BTW ITS EVEN GUYS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VOTE VOTE VOTE MY FELLOW FRACTAL OWNERS!
Click to expand...

Haha !! Now where's that guy who said there's no chance for that to happen.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> BTW Guys im only 15 votes behind at MOTM, need some more votes from fellow fractal owners to take the lead!
> VOTE HERE PLEASE!!


Got you at 1 vote behind







I really hope you win


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Haha !! Now where's that guy who said there's no chance for that to happen.


Probably nervously smoking outside







JK
Man its really tight, i dont remember MOTM contenders to be so close also look at the total amount of votes








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> Got you at 1 vote behind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hope you win


Thank you very much!







you guys made this competition so much fun to watch and be part of


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> yes i did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had an old hard sli bridge, so i just sprayed it with some flat black
> BTW ITS EVEN GUYS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VOTE VOTE VOTE MY FELLOW FRACTAL OWNERS!


Voted yesterday!


----------



## Flanders finest

Voted!
Don't understand why that Compact Splash gets so many votes... it's plain ugly!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flanders finest*
> 
> Voted!
> Don't understand why that Compact Splash gets so many votes... it's plain ugly!


Probably for the completely custom case desgin and how much work went in to desiging the case and the internal layout.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flanders finest*
> 
> Voted!
> Don't understand why that Compact Splash gets so many votes... it's plain ugly!


I actually think it's interesting looking. It's getting votes because of all the work that went into designing and fabricating it into what is quite possibly the smallest water cooled build ever made. Whether or not you like the looks of it (which I actually do), you have to acknowledge the work and skill that went into coming up with the design and implementing it.


----------



## flame696

This was my rig before i replaced the case with a CM storm Trooper


----------



## TSXmike

love the mini!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> You can´t go REALLY silent with a gaming rig in a ARC-Case but you can go semipassiv, if your not in gaming and so on.
> (Linus did a vid. about it )
> If you´re going to game AND want silence you should go with the Define..


Depends on what level of silence your looking for. My rig runs at about 30db fully cranked. Most of it is the GPU with a 7950 XFX dual fan. With out GPU load. I'm at around 26db. (xspc fans on the radiator)

Its not silent but its not loud by any means. Gentle rush of air, its noticeable, but just barely. Case will around 20-22db when i replace the xspc fans with quiet edition Corsairs, and add my gpu block to the video card.

20-22db with great temps, on a overclocked gaming rig is a had chore to muster. I will be getting it done with 520 of radiator space, quiet low speed fans, and gpu/cpu blocks.


----------



## HiCZoK

ok guys it's DONE. Ordered fractal 3000.
Any newbie tips for building pc in it? I am a pc gamer and builder for 15 years but I NEVER had a good case. I always had cheapest terrible case for some reason.
So any build tips? Or maybe any 3000 tips?

My rig is in the sig ?(the banana one)


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> ok guys it's DONE. Ordered fractal 3000.
> Any newbie tips for building pc in it? I am a pc gamer and builder for 15 years but I NEVER had a good case. I always had cheapest terrible case for some reason.
> So any build tips? Or maybe any 3000 tips?
> My rig is in the sig ?(the banana one)


Congratz! core 3000 is a nice case but requires some attention. for example there is no cutout for the 8-pin, at least my case didnt have it so what you can do before you put the mobo in - route that 8 pin cable through motherboard backplate cutout underneath the mobo, it will look lot better that way just be careful when you tighten the mobo 8 pin is a thick cable so you might want to flatten it a little.


----------



## winniethepwn

Should I remove the bottom fan? Sometimes it feels out of place.


----------



## AbdullahG

Define Mini for $80 shipped on Newegg in "case" anyone wants it: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352011&Tpk=define%20mini


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Should I remove the bottom fan? Sometimes it feels out of place.


i don't see anything wrong with it being there.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AbdullahG*
> 
> Define Mini for $80 shipped on Newegg in "case" anyone wants it


I see what you did there


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> I see what you did there


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> 
> Should I remove the bottom fan? Sometimes it feels out of place.


What extensions are those? I have the same board and looking for some that match nicely.


----------



## ebduncan

just ordered some new fans. for my arc midi.

Corsair
4 af140
2 sp120 performance edition for my radiator (will be controlled by fan controller)

hope to drop system temps a tad bit and improve water temp/ cpu temp. Theme my case a bit more as well for the added bonus.


----------



## ekg84

Dear fellow fractal owners, MOTM contest is a really tight race this month, if you didnt vote yet please go HERE and vote for the build that you think deserves to win









Im participating, here is my build:


----------



## stealthybox

You picked a bad month to run EKG :/

normally, I'd be all over supporting you, but I'm sorry;
I just can't stand by and let Compact Splash lose.

Our SFF community is always in need of more eyes...


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealthybox*
> 
> You picked a bad month to run EKG :/
> normally, I'd be all over supporting you, but I'm sorry;
> I just can't stand by and let Compact Splash lose.
> Our SFF community is always in need of more eyes...


well, i didnt really pick it up i got nominated by someone but hey its your choice, if you think CS looks better that's what you should vote for.


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> What extensions are those? I have the same board and looking for some that match nicely.


Just a regular extension sleeved in neon turquoise paracord. It actually does not match at all. Lol. Bought it for the asus p8z77-v lk, but then the gd65 ended up a better deal.


----------



## fnee

Hey guys, been reading up on the r4 case and i've decided to purchase one this month.

one question though, i'm planning to get either a TT water2.0 extreme or antec kuhler 920, and i wish to mount it on the front. I know it works for the h100, but not too sure if the tubing length is sufficient for either of my two choices. i don't wish to void the warranty so changing to fancier tubing (as much as i wish to) is out of the question.


----------



## athlon 64

It probably is, you don"t need that much tubing to put it in the front. Btw post some pictures when you get it


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fnee*
> 
> Hey guys, been reading up on the r4 case and i've decided to purchase one this month.
> one question though, i'm planning to get either a TT water2.0 extreme or antec kuhler 920, and i wish to mount it on the front. I know it works for the h100, but not too sure if the tubing length is sufficient for either of my two choices. i don't wish to void the warranty so changing to fancier tubing (as much as i wish to) is out of the question.


Go with corsair's I series. It's been done before and i don't see any advantages of going with those mentioned above.


----------



## fnee

athlon 64: yes, i certainly will









mrrockwell: well, in my part of the world, the h100i commands a ~USD45 premium over the antec 920. whereas the TT extreme is around ~USD20 cheaper than the h100i, and it has a thicker core as well. in terms of benchmarks that i've found online, the TT seems to have a slight edge over the h100i, and that's a plus point as well.


----------



## di inferi

Can anyone confirm for me that the Arc/Define mini will fit two XFX 7950's? (10 1/2-11 in long)

Thank you and +rep


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Can anyone confirm for me that the Arc/Define mini will fit two XFX 7950's? (10 1/2-11 in long)
> Thank you and +rep


I had a GTX 590 back when I had the Arc Mini and it fit fine with the top hard drive bay removed. However, in your case you may have to remove both drive cages instead of just the top one and the bottom one is riveted in. Find the precise measurement of your card before you do anything.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> Can anyone confirm for me that the Arc/Define mini will fit two XFX 7950's? (10 1/2-11 in long)
> Thank you and +rep


Like Scorpion said you would probably have to remove the bottom cage as well.

Just wondering, why not get a single 7970?


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I had a GTX 590 back when I had the Arc Mini and it fit fine with the top hard drive bay removed. However, in your case you may have to remove both drive cages instead of just the top one and the bottom one is riveted in. Find the precise measurement of your card before you do anything.


It's 10 1/2 in long, I will be removing the bottom drive cage anyway, and thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Like Scorpion said you would probably have to remove the bottom cage as well.
> Just wondering, why not get a single 7970?


A single 7970 isn't enough for Eyefinity.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> A single 7970 isn't enough for Eyefinity.


it is actually.

just you will have to turn down some of the quality settings.


----------



## Scorpion49

I just got rid of my single 7970 but it was fine for 5760x1200 in all the games I play.


----------



## di inferi

No its not; I do that with what I have now... a 7950..... Why would I sell my 7950, spend money to side grade to a 7970... and run the same settings I am now, when I can just crossfire and have way more performance?

No single GPU has enough power to run every game I play at high enough settings on triples, not to mention be even remotely future proof. Period. Turn down the settings? I might as well sell my 7950 and downgrade a couple generations if I'm going to do that...

Thanks but no thanks.

Back to talking about cases? Thanks to those who confirmed fit for me.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> No its not; I do that with what I have now... a 7950..... Why would I sell my 7950, spend money to side grade to a 7970... and run the same settings I am now, when I can just crossfire and have way more performance?
> 
> No single GPU has enough power to run every game I play at high enough settings on triples, not to mention be even remotely future proof. Period. Turn down the settings? I might as well sell my 7950 and downgrade a couple generations if I'm going to do that...
> 
> Thanks but no thanks.
> 
> Back to talking about cases? Thanks to those who confirmed fit for me.


then while your add it upgrade your cpu







and get a big case.


----------



## di inferi

You know what you're right. I'll sell my 7950, buy a 7970, then sell every component I have, then buy the next model up of everything so I can get maybe 5 more fps at 6000+x1080....

You're brilliant. Brilliant.

Next time I want poor component advice I'll come here... The Fractal case club. Hope you're here.

Tool.


----------



## winniethepwn

Nowhere did you mention you already had a 7950. He probably assumed you were building a new computer, a fairly safe estimate to make when someone is searching for a new case.

Way to diss an entire group of hundreds of people just because you get a little pissy at one person.

Quit being such a hardass.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *di inferi*
> 
> You know what you're right. I'll sell my 7950, buy a 7970, then sell every component I have, then buy the next model up of everything so I can get maybe 5 more fps at 6000+x1080....
> You're brilliant. Brilliant.
> Next time I want poor component advice I'll come here... The Fractal case club. Hope you're here.
> Tool.


Do you play BF3 and such? I don't, thats why a single 7970 worked fine for me. If you're into top end games and want 60fps or so then CFX is a must at eyefinity resolutions. Good luck getting both those cards in there, I know I had put a radiator on the bottom of my Arc Mini so I removed both HDD cages and put an adapter in the 5.25" bay for my SSD and HDD.


----------



## di inferi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> Nowhere did you mention you already had a 7950. He probably assumed you were building a new computer, a fairly safe estimate to make when someone is searching for a new case.
> Way to diss an entire group of hundreds of people just because you get a little pissy at one person.
> Quit being such a hardass.


Nowhere did I ask for advice on GPU's; I asked if two 10 1/2-11 inch cards would fit in the case.

Nowhere did you say you have a 3570k; but... miraculously, I know...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Do you play BF3 and such? I don't, thats why a single 7970 worked fine for me. If you're into top end games and want 60fps or so then CFX is a must at eyefinity resolutions. Good luck getting both those cards in there, I know I had put a radiator on the bottom of my Arc Mini so I removed both HDD cages and put an adapter in the 5.25" bay for my SSD and HDD.


Thanks again.


----------



## Charlie--

1st UK stock of R4 (white) window panels, that I have see, should not be to long for the Arc Midi ones to be at ebuyer too.

Link --> Fractal Design (white) Side Panel For Define R4 & Fractal Design (white) Side Panel For Define R3


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Congratz! core 3000 is a nice case but requires some attention. for example there is no cutout for the 8-pin, at least my case didnt have it so what you can do before you put the mobo in - route that 8 pin cable through motherboard backplate cutout underneath the mobo, it will look lot better that way just be careful when you tighten the mobo 8 pin is a thick cable so you might want to flatten it a little.


Thanks for the tip. I will figure out something with that 8pin.

Should i leave fans in their default stock places?


----------



## beefcrinkle

Been checking posts but its allot of pages. Have people had any luck using the H100 in the Define XL? I love the look but I dont want to get ride of my H100


----------



## Col5

Stick with air cooling , then pre packed water kits are way over rated .


----------



## Col5

#Them


----------



## HiCZoK

Any cable management guide ?
300 here. 600w gs corsair psu, 2 sata hdds and 1 sata dvd. gpu with two power outlets


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beefcrinkle*
> 
> Been checking posts but its allot of pages.
> Have people had any luck using the H100 in the Define XL? I love the look but I dont want to get ride of my H100


dude, that 180mm in the roof doesn't help your H100 cause.. either a premium roof
modification or some custom loop thought. and stretching the hoses that length is
going to be painful as well.. although the XL is a tall R4/Midi, its 2" longer as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Col5*
> 
> Stick with air cooling , them pre packed water kits are way over rated .


i have to disagree about being over-rated. on the contray. the 240mm sealed all-in-one kits
are pretty simple, easy to install and pretty spot-on in performance. now, no speed
records will be set by using them, but "over-rated" is pretty sharp term.

airdeano


----------



## james990

Hey guys, i need some advice from the people who use the Arc Midi.
I don't know if the bottom hard drive cage is removable or not, or even rotatable which sucks imo








I was wondering how much the bottom hard drive cage will interfere with the 140mm bottom front fan's airflow.
I drew a diagram on my assumption on the airflow inside the case.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james990*
> 
> Hey guys, i need some advice from the people who use the Arc Midi.
> I don't know if the bottom hard drive cage is removable or not, or even rotatable which sucks imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering how much the bottom hard drive cage will interfere with the 140mm bottom front fan's airflow.
> I drew a diagram on my assumption on the airflow inside the case.


Bottom cage is removable you'll just need to drill out few rivets. It does somewhat block the air from that fan not completely though but removing it will definitely improve the airflow. Just did same thing with my core 3000 and it dropped my gpu temps by several degrees.


----------



## james990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Bottom cage is removable you'll just need to drill out few rivets. It does somewhat block the air from that fan not completely though but removing it will definitely improve the airflow. Just did same thing with my core 3000 and it dropped my gpu temps by several degrees.


Ohh wow dude. Beautiful cooling & cable management :3
Mmm, how exactly did you get your SSD & HD to sit securely on your rig?
Also, i will be using 2 HD's (2 TB) and an SSD (250GB).

I might just add for the sake of things:
I will not use any water cooling in this build. I want to try and get as much out of air cooling as possible from this case. Also i will be using a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo for my CPU cooler (i7 3770k attempting to OC for 4.3GHz @ 70c).


----------



## AD0BE

hey guys
what is the maximum length of GPUS in a ARC MIDI?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AD0BE*
> 
> hey guys
> what is the maximum length of GPUS in a ARC MIDI?


It supports graphic-cards up to 290mm.
If you remove the upper HDD-bay you can fit cards up tu 470mm buzt inly in the upper 3 PCIE slots I think.


Spoiler: Picture







EDIT: you can see all this on the Fractal Design homepage
http://fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=57


----------



## AD0BE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> It supports graphic-cards up to 290mm.
> If you remove the upper HDD-bay you can fit cards up tu 470mm buzt inly in the upper 3 PCIE slots I think.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: you can see all this on the Fractal Design homepage
> http://fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=57


Thanks







)
+rep


----------



## james990

repost:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Bottom cage is removable you'll just need to drill out few rivets. It does somewhat block the air from that fan not completely though but removing it will definitely improve the airflow. Just did same thing with my core 3000 and it dropped my gpu temps by several degrees.


Ohh wow dude. Beautiful cooling & cable management :3
Mmm, how exactly did you get your SSD & HD to sit securely on your rig?
Also, i will be using 2 HD's (2 TB) and an SSD (250GB).

I might just add for the sake of things:
I will not use any water cooling in this build. I want to try and get as much out of air cooling as possible from this case. Also i will be using a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo for my CPU cooler (i7 3770k attempting to OC for 4.3GHz @ 70c).


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james990*
> 
> Hey guys, i need some advice from the people who use the Arc Midi.
> I don't know if the bottom hard drive cage is removable or not, or even rotatable which sucks imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering how much the bottom hard drive cage will interfere with the 140mm bottom front fan's airflow.
> I drew a diagram on my assumption on the airflow inside the case.


Well first the psu doesn't exhaust hot air from the case, unless you mount it fan up. Otherwise it will draw cool air from the bottom of the case and exhaust it. The front panels fans are to cool the drives more or less. While it is restrictive there beyond the hard drives, you don't loose the overall amount of air being exchanged in the case. You loose directional air, which helps provide cool fresh air to components.

I highly recommend you install a fan on the side panel, this directs nice stream of air to the video card and to the motherboard.

The Midi doesn't have the best airflow in the world but it does decent, and has more than enough to keep things cool. If you remove the lower drive bay then it does help to bring in more cool fresh air to the rest of the system. However the biggest thing is just to be able to exchange enough air in the case to keep heat from building up. Which the Arc Midi does well.

I will say its kind of hard to have a positive pressure setup, unless you start replacing the stock fans.


----------



## Huzzbutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Well first the psu doesn't exhaust hot air from the case, unless you mount it fan up. Otherwise it will draw cool air from the bottom of the case and exhaust it. The front panels fans are to cool the drives more or less. While it is restrictive there beyond the hard drives, you don't loose the overall amount of air being exchanged in the case. You loose directional air, which helps provide cool fresh air to components.
> I highly recommend you install a fan on the side panel, this directs nice stream of air to the video card and to the motherboard.
> The Midi doesn't have the best airflow in the world but it does decent, and has more than enough to keep things cool. If you remove the lower drive bay then it does help to bring in more cool fresh air to the rest of the system. However the biggest thing is just to be able to exchange enough air in the case to keep heat from building up. Which the Arc Midi does well.
> I will say its kind of hard to have a positive pressure setup, unless you start replacing the stock fans.


I would do the opposite, in fact I did the opposite, Side fans didn't help me much but lowering the power for front intakes whilst increasing exhausts did wonders for my temps.

Fractal designs are prone to overpressure in a bad way, the hot air likes to stay inside.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I would do the opposite, in fact I did the opposite, Side fans didn't help me much but lowering the power for front intakes whilst increasing exhausts did wonders for my temps.
> 
> Fractal designs are prone to overpressure in a bad way, the hot air likes to stay inside.


how so?

at least with the arc midi, you can mount 3 140mm up top, and 1 120mm Plenty of exhaust, and plenty of fresh air being pulled in if you use the front 2 140mms and one side panel 140mm.

I personally have Intake- Corsair AF140's 3 of them (two in front panel, one on side panel)
Exhaust- Corsair AF140, two Corsair SP 120's (radiator), Power supply.

Case temp is only 2-3 degrees above ambient, and its positive pressure. (the sp 120's don't run at full speed)

I don't know what case your talking about, but the Arc Midi does just fine with positive pressure, which is good because it keeps dust to a min.


----------



## Airrick10

Ok so I just got my Phanteks PH-TC14PE air cooler and I was wondering if my 2 top 140mm fans on my Midi were necessary?

Should I:

a) Remove them
b) leave them as they are (outtake)
c) use them as intake

The cooler will be mounted with the fans blowing air to exit the back of the case...any input is appreciated...Thanks!


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so I just got my Phanteks PH-TC14PE air cooler and I was wondering if my 2 top 140mm fans on my Midi were necessary?
> Should I:
> a) Remove them
> b) leave them as they are (outtake)
> c) use them as intake
> The cooler will be mounted with the fans blowing air to exit the back of the case...any input is appreciated...Thanks!


I'd use one as intake in front of the heatsink, but run it at ~50%. I noticed better temps with my Archon when I had one top fan in front of it as an intake.


----------



## james990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Huzzbutt*
> 
> I would do the opposite, in fact I did the opposite, Side fans didn't help me much but lowering the power for front intakes whilst increasing exhausts did wonders for my temps.
> Fractal designs are prone to overpressure in a bad way, the hot air likes to stay inside.


That's what i was thinking


I won't use the side fan
I will only use the 1 top exhaust to the left and the rear exhaust to help compliment and not disrupt a slight push/pull config for the CPU cooler (the 212 Evo will only use 1 fan since tests done on push/pull 212 Evo didn't really yield that great results, hence why the 2 top exhaust case fans will do the pulling.)
The 3 intake case fans will be set to a lower RPM while the two exhaust fans will be set to higher RPM's.
The remaining unused side vent and top vents will be sealed off.
Am i doing it right?
& will this give me a positive or negative pressure cooling system?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> I'd use one as intake in front of the heatsink, but run it at ~50%. I noticed better temps with my Archon when I had one top fan in front of it as an intake.


Thanks for your feedback! I already have 2 140mm fans on the front as intake. I decided to leave them as outtake on top. I just run them at 1/2 speed. I also installed another 140mm as outtake on the rear. Still debating on whether or not to install another 140mm as intake at the bottom.


----------



## Huzzbutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> how so?
> at least with the arc midi, you can mount 3 140mm up top, and 1 120mm Plenty of exhaust, and plenty of fresh air being pulled in if you use the front 2 140mms and one side panel 140mm.
> I personally have Intake- Corsair AF140's 3 of them (two in front panel, one on side panel)
> Exhaust- Corsair AF140, two Corsair SP 120's (radiator), Power supply.
> Case temp is only 2-3 degrees above ambient, and its positive pressure. (the sp 120's don't run at full speed)
> I don't know what case your talking about, but the Arc Midi does just fine with positive pressure, which is good because it keeps dust to a min.


My bad, I was in define mode sorry bout that


----------



## doyll

Couple of options to test:
* Move top back to bottom as intake, turn top front into low speed intake and open unused PCI slots in back. Will force, hot air out.
* Move top front to bottom intake. Will give you more cool air in.
* For both raise your case up so bottom PSU and intake fans have about 50mm clearance for less restrictive intake. Will increase airflow and make them quieter.

Try each and see what the temps are, than use whichever one works the best.


----------



## HiCZoK

I need some help.

So I just got my fractal 3000 and build installed my pc in it. It was fun to build and the case itself is very sturdy and feels premium








I really like the fans, steel, black paint and all the details.

But I need help with cable management. I just suck at it. I have 600w gs NONmodulat corsair psu and installed it fan-down. All psu cables went thru hole right near it and then out of the holes corresponding to the needs. It is still a mess. I also removed the middle cage.

And I am not sure if I want to use the adjustable fan controller. First -it makes a horrible mess with it's cables. Second -it's analog controlled and I am not sure if fans spin with the speed I want. I would prefer 3way controller or maybe should I just plug THOSE FANS INTO MOBO and let em to be controlled by bios settings ? I have asrock p67 pro3.

One last question. Should I cover up the fan free mesh vent on the roof? I feel like dirt might just drop inside or something


----------



## Airrick10

Ok so I upgraded a couple of things on my Arc Midi:

1) Bitfenix Alchemy White Sleeved Extensions (Power, 8-pin power, 2x6-pin gpu power)
2) I replaced my cooler from an Antec Kuhler 620 to a Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK (much quieter while having slightly better temps)
3) I replaced 2 front and added 1 rear fans with Corsair AF140's


----------



## viox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Ok so I upgraded a couple of things on my Arc Midi:
> 1) Bitfenix Alchemy White Sleeved Extensions (Power, 8-pin power, 2x6-pin gpu power)
> 2) I replaced my cooler from an Antec Kuhler 620 to a Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK (much quieter while having slightly better temps)
> 3) I replaced 2 front and added 1 rear fans with Corsair AF140's


Once you go past the Phanteks size you can get quite amazed by their efficiency ( both thermal and sound ) . I went from H80 to the aforementioned.

Props for a wicked system!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viox*
> 
> Once you go past the Phanteks size you can get quite amazed by their efficiency ( both thermal and sound ) . I went from H80 to the aforementioned.
> Props for a wicked system!


Thanks Viox! Yeah man, the Phanteks is big but no problem installing this behemoth in the Arc Midi at all! I had to sacrifice my ram cooler but I mainly had it for aesthetics more than anything....oh well.









I now won't have to worry about any leaks. My antec kuhler was pretty good...no problems at all but you never know what might happen.


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> I need some help.
> So I just got my fractal 3000 and build installed my pc in it. It was fun to build and the case itself is very sturdy and feels premium
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the fans, steel, black paint and all the details.
> But I need help with cable management. I just suck at it. I have 600w gs NONmodulat corsair psu and installed it fan-down. All psu cables went thru hole right near it and then out of the holes corresponding to the needs. It is still a mess. I also removed the middle cage.
> And I am not sure if I want to use the adjustable fan controller. First -it makes a horrible mess with it's cables. Second -it's analog controlled and I am not sure if fans spin with the speed I want. I would prefer 3way controller or maybe should I just plug THOSE FANS INTO MOBO and let em to be controlled by bios settings ? I have asrock p67 pro3.
> One last question. Should I cover up the fan free mesh vent on the roof? I feel like dirt might just drop inside or something


anyone ?


----------



## Huzzbutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> anyone ?


Airborne dust generally tend to not drop into exhausts, cover it up if you feel like it. Let the air flow if temps get high.
As for fans I would use the one provided, but i like analog stuff.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> anyone ?


there should be enough space behind mobo tray for all loose cables. I wouldnt use stock fan controller, instead like you said you can plug fans directly into the mobo if mobo has enough headers of course. also best way to cover that fanless grill would be to cover it with a fan







you can move front fan to the empty top grill and buy some new fans for front intake: i have these:

LINK

dont forget that front fans are 140mm on top and 120mm on the bottom


----------



## HiCZoK

I will see how these perform when switched to mobo instead of controller.

And I am not willing to but another fan. 3 is enough for me.


----------



## ebduncan

figured i would post some new pictures.

Installed my corsair fans. Sorry for the bad quality, cell phone pic. Need batteries for my digital cam. I will be painting all the white stuff in the case red here soon to complete the theme as well as replacing my powersupply with a new one with red/black sleeved cables.


----------



## HiCZoK

Psu upside ?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Psu upside ?


Looks like.

I got my psi with the fan up too and got no temp or noise problems.
It just looks better imo


----------



## james990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Looks like.
> I got my psi with the fan up too and got no temp or noise problems.
> It just looks better imo


LOL omg im not the only one. I am new to building PC's & im about to build my first one & the first thing i noticed is that the PSU fan shouldn't be visible lol. I just didn't want to say anything so i wouldn't look like a fool :3
Wouldnt it be better to have the PSU fan down?

coolest air is on the bottom
PSU and GPU wont fight to suck air?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james990*
> 
> LOL omg im not the only one. I am new to building PC's & im about to build my first one & the first thing i noticed is that the PSU fan shouldn't be visible lol. I just didn't want to say anything so i wouldn't look like a fool :3
> Wouldnt it be better to have the PSU fan down?
> 
> coolest air is on the bottom
> PSU and GPU wont fight to suck air?


yeah it is not that problematic.
If there is enough space between the you and the psu you should be fine.

The temperature should be not a problem because psus are so efficient these days it should all be fine.

And just keeping in mind: If you have payd 200+ for your psu why not showing it of?


----------



## james990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> yeah it is not that problematic.
> If there is enough space between the you and the psu you should be fine.
> The temperature should be not a problem because psus are so efficient these days it should all be fine.
> And just keeping in mind: If you have payd 200+ for your psu why not showing it of?


lol fair enough :3
I'm about to start my first build that uses this case & im gonna try and get the most out of air. I'm probably gonna be obsessed about it when i finish my build & it turns out to work.


----------



## cgull

ahh the old which way is the right way up for a psu debate.. tom logan (ttl from oc3d tv) reckons it makes no real difference..he always has his fan up for asthetics..
personally i prefer the fan down , especially if you have a dust filter on the bottom of the case.
also i worry that a screw might drop in there one day when i'm swapping bits around..then i'd have to fish it out..

But It's an individual choice .. no right or wrong


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Bottom cage is removable you'll just need to drill out few rivets. It does somewhat block the air from that fan not completely though but removing it will definitely improve the airflow. Just did same thing with my core 3000 and it dropped my gpu temps by several degrees.


Once you remove the bottom hdd cage, I am guessing you can't put it back on right?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> ahh the old which way is the right way up for a psu debate.. tom logan (ttl from oc3d tv) reckons it makes no real difference..he always has his fan up for asthetics..
> personally i prefer the fan down , especially if you have a dust filter on the bottom of the case.
> also i worry that a screw might drop in there one day when i'm swapping bits around..then i'd have to fish it out..
> But It's an individual choice .. no right or wrong


That's where I'm from


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Psu upside ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Looks like.
> I got my psi with the fan up too and got no temp or noise problems.
> It just looks better imo


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james990*
> 
> LOL omg im not the only one. I am new to building PC's & im about to build my first one & the first thing i noticed is that the PSU fan shouldn't be visible lol. I just didn't want to say anything so i wouldn't look like a fool :3
> Wouldnt it be better to have the PSU fan down?
> 
> coolest air is on the bottom
> PSU and GPU wont fight to suck air?


It doesn't matter which way it is mounted. I rather have it sucking case air out, than have to worry about cleaning some hard to reach dust filter commonly. Psu's used to always draw air from the case. For looks wise it would probably look better if it was right side up, as the cables would be closer to the cut out. I tested it both ways, mounting it so the fan pulled air from inside the case results in a 1-2 c drop on the gpu.


----------



## HiCZoK

yeah but my psu hardly spins at all. it is 600w gs corsair and the sucker spins only from time to time when the power draw is big enough. It looks sick and have led's installed.... migth reconsider changing its position

edit: Any recommendations how to cover the spare fan mesh on roof of 3000 ? I will not install additional fan there


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> yeah but my psu hardly spins at all. it is 600w gs corsair and the sucker spins only from time to time when the power draw is big enough. It looks sick and have led's installed.... migth reconsider changing its position
> edit: Any recommendations how to cover the spare fan mesh on roof of 3000 ? I will not install additional fan there


If you have lightning then it´s worth a look








For covering I would reccomend you something like the ModuVent of an Define or some custom metall plate.
BTW interesting question









EDIT: Found something here


----------



## HiCZoK

Well that looks good but I would rather think of some dust filter I think + I don't want to buy anything else. parts like that are impossible to get in poland anyway


----------



## Huzzbutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Well that looks good but I would rather think of some dust filter I think + I don't want to buy anything else. parts like that are impossible to get in poland anyway


No need to buy parts like that, make them yourself´from any piece of black plastic, and if you're on a real tight budget: nylon stocking.


----------



## meridius

Hi alll

I just bought a fractal xl case and going to be using it as a server I was wondering has anyone removed the flap from the bottem chamber to the motherboard just above the psu or have you left it shut ? Does this matter.

And what about the side part next to the harddrives have you removed this flap also.

Thanks


----------



## void

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Once you remove the bottom hdd cage, I am guessing you can't put it back on right?


You sure can. You could rivet in again or go for nuts and bolts.


----------



## james990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> ahh the old which way is the right way up for a psu debate.. tom logan (ttl from oc3d tv) reckons it makes no real difference..he always has his fan up for asthetics..
> personally i prefer the fan down , especially if you have a dust filter on the bottom of the case.
> also i worry that a screw might drop in there one day when i'm swapping bits around..then i'd have to fish it out..
> But It's an individual choice .. no right or wrong


Yeah, thats exactly where i stand.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *void*
> 
> You sure can. You could rivet in again or go for nuts and bolts.


Hmm true.


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's update on my case mod



More on that
http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine#post_18815135


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here's update on my case mod
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More on that
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine#post_18815135


Just for this threat:

*____*


----------



## meridius

Hi all have the fractal xl and was wanting to know which 8-Pin eps12v extension to use on a seasonic 850w as there's many cables but wanted a good one as I don't think it will reach.

Cheers


----------



## HiCZoK

Here is my final 3000 build.
I removed the fractal fan controller for the sake of better cable management.

yes - that gpu is on string. The thing was bending












Btw. I could still use some more zdvice, how to cover 3 remaining mesh holes.
one on the top, on the side and on the bottom.
I could either do a plastic covers maybe or plexi. Preferably dust filters but I cant find the right material and nylon stocking is not doing it for me


----------



## kyismaster

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318926/sponsored-folding-team-competition-build-project-rainuke#post_18426454








sponsored define build log

little birdy says i got a R4 windowed titanium and Define XL titanium sponsored to me


----------



## JMatzelle3

What color LED does the FD Arctic Define R4 window have? Is it blue


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> What color LED does the FD Arctic Define R4 window have? Is it blue


Blue LED for the black and titanium, and red LED for the white.


----------



## JMatzelle3

+1 thanks


----------



## ahsjose

so i bought the red led phobya fans that malik has in his case. They arrived but the fan structure is clear and not black. ***.

anyways loving my arc midi, waiting on the adjust 108.


----------



## gregl342

Hey everyone, first post on this forum!!! Been using it for reference for a while but this thread finally made me join!









Anyway here are a few pics of my rig; this is my second Fractal Design build, my first PC was in an R2 and I liked it so much I built my new one in an R3!


The PC as a whole. Replaced led for a red one underneath the power switch to match the rest of the build.


Cut out the side panel myself, decided to use a dark tinted acrylic sheet.


Some nice bright white led lights to give it a very nice effect through the dark panel (when the lights are off its almost impossible to see inside!).


I Installed the custom sleeved cables the other day, was a bit of pain because the whole motherboard had to come out due to the E-ATX form factor. Definitely worth it IMO!


Finally an upward shot of my 7970, you may have noticed in the other pics the custom backplate on this. I bought this from www.coldzero.eu and cant reccomend them enough! They have a massive variety of backplates and take custom orders to. They also ship abroad fast and are pretty cheap!

Well thats me!
Please add me to the club...

Cheers,


----------



## HiCZoK

veeeery nice.


----------



## james990

Hey guys how should i go about assembling all my parts together?

GPU: ASUS GTX670-DC2-2GD5
Boot HD: Samsung 830 Series SATA3 256G
MOBO: Asrock Z77 Extreme4
RAM: G.Skill-Ares 1600Mhz 1.5v 16GB
CPU: i7-3770K
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH D14
PSU: Corsair TX650-V2
Sound card: Built in
Case: Fractal Design ARC-Mid USB3.0

With the size of the CPU cooler & all, do you think i should be able to assemble the whole thing together inside my case no problem?
Or should i assemble the RAM, CPU, CPU cooler and VGA onto the mobo outside the case to see if everything works, then take the VGA out and assemble the mobo into the case with the ram, & CPU cooler intact?


----------



## Chickenman

I installed mine with MoBo still in the case and it was a little finicky but worked better overall imo (same case).

Install backplate, install mobo in case, install ram, install cpu, install cooler, find out cooler doesn't fit, swap ram around or remove a fan, continue installing everything else. Saves putting undue stress on the mobo by picking it up with a large cooler on it.


----------



## james990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chickenman*
> 
> I installed mine with MoBo still in the case and it was a little finicky but worked better overall imo (same case).
> Install backplate, install mobo in case, install ram, install cpu, install cooler, find out cooler doesn't fit, swap ram around or remove a fan, continue installing everything else. Saves putting undue stress on the mobo by picking it up with a large cooler on it.


Thanks man, that sounds fair. I'll wait a while for some1 else to reply.
I can't wait to put this thing together ^.^


----------



## JMatzelle3

Does anyone know how many fans or the wattage of the Define r4 fan controller

there is cable for 3 fans could i split one to make it so i can use 4


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> Does anyone know how many fans or the wattage of the Define r4 fan controller
> there is cable for 3 fans could i split one to make it so i can use 4


I'm sure you can split the controller up so that's good.








I don't know the exact wattage I think you should be fine if you don't use 4 deltas or so


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Btw. I could still use some more zdvice, how to cover 3 remaining mesh holes.
> one on the top, on the side and on the bottom.


I used a thick black plastic sheet from an old notebook personally (paper notebook, not laptop







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james990*
> 
> MOBO: Asrock Z77 Extreme4


I would switch to a Gigabyte Z77X-UD3H or Z77X-D3H, the Extreme4 has mediocre MOSFETs.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1271002/asrock-z77-vrm-phase-cooling-badly-needed/0_20#post_17502529


----------



## JMatzelle3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I'm sure you can split the controller up so that's good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know the exact wattage I think you should be fine if you don't use 4 deltas or so


Nope i use Corsair AF140 Quiet and going to have 2 NZXT Airflow series 140 in the front no led


----------



## mrrockwell

Cables all done


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> Nope i use Corsair AF140 Quiet and going to have 2 NZXT Airflow series 140 in the front no led


Should be without problems. But no quote on this sorry -_-


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Cables all done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Do you have a build log?


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Do you have a build log?


Yep. Here it is.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine/10#post_18831317


----------



## JMatzelle3

Does anyone else know if its safe to put my top Corsair AF140 Quiet on there individual connections on the R4 and have one and use a splitter?

Since there is only 3 fan plugs and i need 4


----------



## kyismaster

:> I got my sponsored fractal XL today,

after some looks at it, I wonder how im going to mount 2 240 rads to it :|


----------



## siggie30

And



Sorry, couldn't resist.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> :> I got my sponsored fractal XL today,
> after some looks at it, I wonder how im going to mount 2 240 rads to it :|


I guess a Bitspower Radgard 240 would fit nice on the top


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I guess a Bitspower Radgard 240 would fit nice on the top


Not sure How I feel about cutting holes yet

I got a dremel but i'll have to wait for my voltage regulator or else i'll be cutting at 35,000 RPM's which I don't really feel safe with LOL


----------



## MiiX

I see... THE POWER!!!








I found out that my dremel is phucked, so I'm hoping for a new one for Christmas, else I'll buy it myself!







I really want to start cutting on my Core 1000... Plans are kind of back and forth, but I think I got it now...


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> Does anyone else know if its safe to put my top Corsair AF140 Quiet on there individual connections on the R4 and have one and use a splitter?
> Since there is only 3 fan plugs and i need 4


Should be I have 6 fans split onto mine and the voltage control is spot on. No problems so far, swapping to a fan controller @ later date though when I put in lights and put on an acrylic side. The fan controller is rated for 11 or 15 watts per channel iirc


----------



## JMatzelle3

Thanks so much i wanted to use it till i got my fan controller thats all


----------



## falcon26

How much room is their for a GTX680 standard PCB in the R4 from the drive cage? In my 550D its got a good 1/2 from the drive cage.


----------



## K4IKEN

You're going to have about 1.5 inches with the top drive cage still in.. Space really isn't an issue for this case unless you're trying to watercool or something crazy.


----------



## HiCZoK

would it hurt the airflow if I covered the spare roof and side panel 1400mm fanholes meshes, with thin plexi from the inside ?

There are already 3 fans in the fractal 3000 and do I really need those 2 mesh holes ? I am not installing additional fans in there anyway


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> would it hurt the airflow if I covered the spare roof and side panel 1400mm fanholes meshes, with thin plexi from the inside ?


Personally I have an all-intake setup so the air is exhausting from the top - hot air from the C12P.


----------



## reaceskoda

Hey guys, Im considering buying the awesome looking define mini!







Just out of curiosity would it be possible to change the colour of the power LED? and if so how would I go about doing it? Im just really obsessed with a red and black colour scheme and that big blue power LED would bug me forever


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaceskoda*
> 
> Hey guys, Im considering buying the awesome looking define mini!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just out of curiosity would it be possible to change the colour of the power LED? and if so how would I go about doing it? Im just really obsessed with a red and black colour scheme and that big blue power LED would bug me forever


Here's mine



http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


----------



## reaceskoda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here's mine
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


Wow! that looks awesome! My build is gonna be basically the same parts except the slightly updated versions (670, Gene 5 etc. etc.) but this being my first build and this probably applies to every other build i will do, they will never look as good as this!







. Sooo, How did you go about changing your power LED then, im really quite a noob at these types of things







. Amazing build by the way!


----------



## vitality

anyone know when the windows side panel will be available for the arc midi?


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaceskoda*
> 
> Wow! that looks awesome! My build is gonna be basically the same parts except the slightly updated versions (670, Gene 5 etc. etc.) but this being my first build and this probably applies to every other build i will do, they will never look as good as this!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sooo, How did you go about changing your power LED then, im really quite a noob at these types of things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Amazing build by the way!


I bought exsact same led at my local radioshack store and soldered it on. Its really easy.


----------



## reaceskoda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> I bought exsact same led at my local radioshack store and soldered it on. Its really easy.


Thanks for the reply! really helped considering how clueless about where to even start with these things I am







Good luck with you build, it looks fantastic!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vitality*
> 
> anyone know when the windows side panel will be available for the arc midi?


right now


----------



## Nuddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How much room is their for a GTX680 standard PCB in the R4 from the drive cage? In my 550D its got a good 1/2 from the drive cage.


You´ll get an idea from my sign./pics... gigabyte gtx 670 on 680 PCB


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> right now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That's what windows are made of!


----------



## Trojita

I'm building my new computer with a Fractal R4 case. I was originally going to get a more expensive case like the Corsair 800D, but people were recommending this because of cooling and how silent it is.

It definitely feels like a case that should cost more than $99.99. It's definitely better than my Antec 900. Now I won't cut myself when tinkering around inside!

this is my first full computer build in 4 years.


----------



## JMatzelle3

I love the R4 well built and everything


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Latest pic. Sorry about the quality and angle. I'll put better ones up when I get a decent camera and I've sorted out the cables properly.



Already outdated - flipped the H80i fans around so they're intake and moved the bottom AF140 to the roof as exhaust.


----------



## FunBox

I was wondering whether I could fit a H100i In push pull config in the front of my R4?
Bottom hard drive cage remove and using some form of 5.25 bay adapters for my storage needs. My main concern is whether the tubes will be long enough and it will fit nice and tight. Many thanks


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> I was wondering whether I could fit a H100i In push pull config in the front of my R4?
> Bottom hard drive cage remove and using some form of 5.25 bay adapters for my storage needs. My main concern is whether the tubes will be long enough and it will fit nice and tight. Many thanks


It could be done. Search this threat few pages dow an I'm sure theres a pic of that setup.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> It could be done. Search this threat few pages dow an I'm sure theres a pic of that setup.


http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/4520
It's the 5th post


----------



## Mainian

Hey guys, I just order an R4 black (no Window) !

I'm looking at buying 2 - 3 (Gonna put 1 in side panel). And IDK about the other(s).

Anyways, I've been recommend the AF140's. Any other fans you guys could suggest?

I'd like to order them soon so everything gets here around the same time







.


----------



## JMatzelle3

AF140 Quiet are amazing i use those on the top

AF120 Quiet in the front and SP120 with my h55


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I've got 2 AF140s in the front, 1 AF140 in the roof and 2 SP120 QEs on my H80i. They're awesome.


----------



## JMatzelle3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I've got 2 AF140s in the front, 1 AF140 in the roof and 2 SP120 QEs on my H80i. They're awesome.


Agreed Love the R4 with corsair fans.

Are you using a fan controller? which one if so


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> Agreed Love the R4 with corsair fans.
> Are you using a fan controller? which one if so


Bitfenix Recon which is also awesome.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

EDIT: Double post. Sorry.


----------



## JMatzelle3

Do i have to use the Thermal probes or can i take them off the controller of the Bitfenix Recon. Like do they detach from the controller since i never use them.

Do you use them?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

No I don't use them. You don't have to use them but I have noticed that if you unplug them (have to remove some glue) then you lose the ability to control the fan speed which is rather stupid in my opinion. I just bunched them all together and cable tied them so they're out of the way. Also done that to the USB cable because I also didn't use it. Hope that helps


----------



## JMatzelle3

thanks +1


----------



## ebduncan

don't see why you would need to adjust the fan speed on the quiet edition corsairs....

they are nearly silent.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> thanks +1


No worries. Thanks for the + rep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> don't see why you would need to adjust the fan speed on the quiet edition corsairs....
> they are nearly silent.


Very true but I like to have the option to turn them off completely.

Just thought I'd also add that I have ordered a windowed panel for my R4 (cost about £36 including delivery) and it'll be here in a few weeks (coming from Amazon.de)

Price is quite high but I had some vouchers that were just sitting on my account and I didn't need anything else.


----------



## meridius

Can anyone help me find a much better 180mm fan to replace the fractal in the xl case. Is there better fans and quieter sounding or am I just wasting my time and just keep the one I Ihave now

Thanks all


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Silverstone AP181, Silverstone FM181 and Phobya G-Silent 18. Only ones I can think of off the top of my head.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trojita*
> 
> I'm building my new computer with a Fractal R4 case. I was originally going to get a more expensive case like the Corsair 800D, but people were recommending this because of cooling and how silent it is.
> It definitely feels like a case that should cost more than $99.99. It's definitely better than my Antec 900. Now I won't cut myself when tinkering around inside!
> this is my first full computer build in 4 years.


Should be a pleasure for you to build compared to older cheaper cases.


----------



## meridius

Thanks

So these fans have better air flow and are quieter ? How easy are they to install as I think the fractal fan is 25mm and these fans seem to be wider. The motherboards close to the case fan as it is would these still fit.

Thanks


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meridius*
> 
> Thanks
> So these fans have better air flow and are quieter ? How easy are they to install as I think the fractal fan is 25mm and these fans seem to be wider. The motherboards close to the case fan as it is would these still fit.
> Thanks


Didn't think about that. Most likely won't fit.


----------



## JMatzelle3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> No worries. Thanks for the + rep.
> Very true but I like to have the option to turn them off completely.
> Just thought I'd also add that I have ordered a windowed panel for my R4 (cost about £36 including delivery) and it'll be here in a few weeks (coming from Amazon.de)
> Price is quite high but I had some vouchers that were just sitting on my account and I didn't need anything else.


some times there not quite enough.

I want to see what temps i get maybe i would want to shut off 1 120mm and 1 140mm fan while im not gaming and turn them on while gaming.

Also would it be stupid to put the Corsair SP120 that is used with my H55 on the fan controller instead of the motherboard.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> some times there not quite enough.
> I want to see what temps i get maybe i would want to shut off 1 120mm and 1 140mm fan while im not gaming and turn them on while gaming.
> Also would it be stupid to put the Corsair SP120 that is used with my H55 on the fan controller instead of the motherboard.


The corsair fans are 3 pin fans, they are not pwm controlled. If you plug into the motherboard, it will always operate at the same speed. So the Fan controller is nice for the SP series anyways. The Quiet Editions fan speed controller might as well just be used for a on/off switch like the other guy said.

MY sp120's are rather noisy at full power, I run them with the lowered voltage cable, for my radiator. I wanted to be able to push them to full speed when I want to. Need a fan controller for that though.

I have a new fan setup. Turned the rear 140mm into a intake, and the side panel fan as a exhaust.

So now its 3 af140 intakes. 1 af 140 exhaust, 2 sp 120 exhausts. Also changed out the powersupply for the seasonic x850. Trying it in normal position, might flip it around.


----------



## solsamurai

Hello Fractal Fans. I'm considering moving from a 650D to an R4 to quiet things down a bit more. Anyone else moved from a 650D?

It's on sale for $80 + free shipping on Newegg.


----------



## K4IKEN

For that price I would definitely scoop one up. I've always wanted a 650D, but I'm glad I saved a few dollars and went with the R4. I was surprised by the build quality for the price.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> For that price I would definitely scoop one up. I've always wanted a 650D, but I'm glad I saved a few dollars and went with the R4. I was surprised by the build quality for the price.


I seems like cable management and a few other things would be much easier in the R4. The one on sale isn't the windowed version so the LED strip I got recently would be somewhat less effective.







I really like the stealth SSD mounts on the back of the m/b tray as well. There's not a whole lot of room in the 650D for that. Plus if you move the HDD cage to the center like many do there's even less space to hide things. Not a big deal when it's all done just a pain if you open up your case on a regular basis (trying new fans, etc). Just need to find a way to mount a couple TY-147's in the front panel and we're good.


----------



## K4IKEN

Yea, mounting those TYs would be a nice little challenge..


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yea, mounting those TYs would be a nice little challenge..


I was actually thinking about moving the bottom HDD cage to it's alternate position, mount a TY-147 on top with another single TY-147 in the front panel. Mounting just one in the front shouldn't be too difficult I hope.









I was also wondering how easy it is to remove the stock fan controller?


----------



## doyll

Front would be the only challenge to putting TY-14x fans in. No idea what it would take but I put them into my R2 without too much problem. Drilled out pop rivets and removed HDD cage, removed stock fan mount/filter, made a plate for front and screwed threw it to fans. Used Silverstone 140mm magnetic mounting fans. Could use DEMCiflex but had Silverstones and DEMCiflex are more expensive.


----------



## solsamurai

Does anyone have a picture of the inside of the front panel? I'd like to get an idea what I'll have to work with.


----------



## JMatzelle3

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995017

will this work on the R4 with the door closed

or do i need something low profile like this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811997077


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle3*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995017
> will this work on the R4 with the door closed
> or do i need something low profile like this
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811997077


the second one.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Does anyone have a picture of the inside of the front panel? I'd like to get an idea what I'll have to work with.



Front fans are in a 2 fan/filter system that just snaps into the chassis.


Not the greatest shot because I couldn't take the front panel all the way off due to my cable managing, but the fan controller easily unscrews.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front fans are in a 2 fan/filter system that just snaps into the chassis.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the greatest shot because I couldn't take the front panel all the way off due to my cable managing, but the fan controller easily unscrews.


Are there any screw holes in the front panel? Lol, not as much room as I hoped.


----------



## K4IKEN

Nope, behind the door is one solid peice. There's just a small slit for the switch to come through.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Nope, behind the door is one solid peice. There's just a small slit for the switch to come through.


Drill holes and zip ties it is, lol. Again it would only be one TY-147 with the second mounted on the HDD cage. Kinda like my current setup in the 650D.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## K4IKEN

Yea I know what you're saying but I think that the TY is going to be too wide to use the included bracket. Without the bracket then you have no way to use the filter either.

The bracket snaps into place, and the 140mm fans are clipped into the bracket. Without the bracket the only way I see you could mount the TY is drilling directly into the frame rails and securing it, if the TY isn't too wide that is.


And this is a close up of the fan controller area.


----------



## solsamurai

The TY-147 is 140mm x 160mm so I figure I may be able to mount it somehow with the 140mm side. If not I would have to look into whatever other fan.







I'd like to have all my fans controlled from the CPU_FAN header as they mostly are now in the 650D. Worst case scenario I'll get a fan controller, lol.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yea I know what you're saying but I think that the TY is going to be too wide to use the included bracket. Without the bracket then you have no way to use the filter either.
> The bracket snaps into place, and the 140mm fans are clipped into the bracket. Without the bracket the only way I see you could mount the TY is drilling directly into the frame rails and securing it, if the TY isn't too wide that is.
> 
> And this is a close up of the fan controller area.


I think hes literally asking about the backside of the front panel.
maybe to gauge if he can fit fans or something.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> I think hes literally asking about the backside of the front panel.
> Like, maybe install 2 more fans on the other side of where the res would pop in.


If that's the portion the fans snap into then yes am I.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> If that's the portion the fans snap into then yes am I.


its kind of both.

the fans snap into the frame, but the cage for the fans pops out of the front panel lol. its like a gate or a door.


----------



## K4IKEN

The fans snap into that big empty void, which is part of the main chassis. If the fans are too wide for that, then you would be filing down the chassis, not the front panel. Wish I could show it better but I'm too lazy to take apart everything again lol..


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> The fans snap into that big empty void, which is part of the main chassis. If the fans are too wide for that, then you would be filing down the chassis, not the front panel. Wish I could show it better but I'm too lazy to take apart everything again lol..


I would take a picture of mines but my dual bay res is holding onto my front panel lol.


----------



## solsamurai

It's ok. I have a really good idea of what to expect. I also think I'll wait a bit more to get the case. Even though it's on sale I'd rather wait 'til I can also afford to upgrade to a 3770K system so I can leave the AMD components in the 650D.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> It's ok. I have a really good idea of what to expect. I also think I'll wait a bit more to get the case. Even though it's on sale I'd rather wait 'til I can also afford to upgrade to a 3770K system so I can leave the AMD components in the 650D.


you can always get the windowed one from NCIX shipped for 105


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> you can always get the windowed one from NCIX shipped for 105










I keep forgetting about them! Thanks! I have a small LED strip in the bottom corner next to the PSU and still wanted to have that pretty glow.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I keep forgetting about them! Thanks! I have a small LED strip in the bottom corner next to the PSU and still wanted to have that pretty glow.


mee too







,

except mines UV lol


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Gonna have to add this to the list of cases - Define XL R2: http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=111


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Gonna have to add this to the list of cases - Define XL R2: http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=111


THIS under water *___*


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Gonna have to add this to the list of cases - Define XL R2: http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=111


An offset 360 rad mount on the roof would have really set this case off.. still good none the less though.


----------



## kyismaster

Just when i got a XL lol


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Just when i got a XL lol


Damn dood.. how many cases do you have?!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Damn dood.. how many cases do you have?!


2 sponsored maybe 3 soon


----------



## Hasdrubal

I am considering replacing my current case fans (Thermalriht X-Silent 140) by Thermalright TY-147, which are 140 fans using 120 frames holes:



Do you believe they will hold on the 140 front frame?


----------



## doyll

Overclockers.co.uk has TY-147 on pre-order special for £5.99 and say they are late arriving.
The TY-14x series are actually 151.25 x 14176 x 26.2mm. Inside of shroud/housing is 136.8mm Just measure with my digital caliper which is accurate to .05mm at 22.4c stable temperature.








Tomorrow I might try cutting a TY-140 down to 140-141mm with either my table saw or my miter saw. Table saw has slide table and miter saw has slide arm. My blades do a good job on acrylic sheet goods so hopefully will do the job.


----------



## mshaddix

Hey guys, just ordered my Define R4 today but had a quick question about the fans. I'm trying to find an online retailer where I can buy 3 more 140mm R2 fans like the one in the case. Do any of you know where I can find these (US)?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mshaddix*
> 
> Hey guys, just ordered my Define R4 today but had a quick question about the fans. I'm trying to find an online retailer where I can buy 3 more 140mm R2 fans like the one in the case. Do any of you know where I can find these (US)?


Try NCIX US site.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mshaddix*
> 
> Hey guys, just ordered my Define R4 today but had a quick question about the fans. I'm trying to find an online retailer where I can buy 3 more 140mm R2 fans like the one in the case. Do any of you know where I can find these (US)?


Such as these? http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=71009&vpn=FD-FAN-SSR2-140&manufacture=Fractal%20Design

From NCIX


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Almost done with my Node 304! Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics and yes the graphics card will be updated for Crysis 3. Wire management is a pain and please forgive the free floating SSD. That will get the velcro treatment tomorrow. Think I did decent with the wires. Any input will be great and also considering a 120mm exhaust on the top and flippign the h80 fans around to get cleaner air in the rad. What do you guys think?


----------



## All3n

Cool


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker*
> 
> Almost done with my Node 304! Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics and yes the graphics card will be updated for Crysis 3. Wire management is a pain and please forgive the free floating SSD. That will get the velcro treatment tomorrow. Think I did decent with the wires. Any input will be great and also considering a 120mm exhaust on the top and flippign the h80 fans around to get cleaner air in the rad. What do you guys think?


Velcro to the side of the PSU, and pull the airflow into the case through the radiator.


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Velcro to the side of the PSU, and pull the airflow into the case through the radiator.


Perfect! Then I will add the 120mm Exhaust on top.


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Velcro to the side of the PSU, and pull the airflow into the case through the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perfect! Then I will add the 120mm Exhaust on top.
Click to expand...

Just my opinion, but having all the fans flowing inward, helps push the PSU exhaust out of that little mesh panel. Not much air in these boxes anyway, but I would not think another exhaust fan would help too much. Unless your after just modding the case.


----------



## mshaddix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> Such as these? http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=71009&vpn=FD-FAN-SSR2-140&manufacture=Fractal%20Design
> From NCIX


Yeah I found some there but they are 14.42 + 8.00 shipping.. That's $22 a fan! I'd spend $66 for 3 of them! Hopefully I can find a better deal elsewhere.


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Just my opinion, but having all the fans flowing inward, helps push the PSU exhaust out of that little mesh panel. Not much air in these boxes anyway, but I would not think another exhaust fan would help too much. Unless your after just modding the case.


I will give that a try first. Rather not cut it. Thanks for the advice!


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker*
> 
> I will give that a try first. Rather not cut it. Thanks for the advice!


I'd try several different configs and find out first hand which works best for your system.


----------



## Raincity007

Hello all, I have a question. I own both the R-4 and Define Mini. I am looking for the best setup to keep the GPU's cool in each setup.

R-4 current fan setup Both Fractal R-2 140 placed in the front for intake controlled with the fan controller at 7V, Artic F14 140 on the rear exhaust controlled from the motherboard and XIGMATEK XAF-F1451 140 exhaust on the roof also controlled on the motherboard. Would it be better to move the Xigmatek to the side panel for exhaust or intake ?

Define Mini current fan setup. Both Fractal R-2 120 for intake. One controlled from motherboard while the other is just connected to the PS. Antec Cool quiet 120 controlled from the motherboard. Should I add another fan ?

The R-4 houses a I5 3570K and EVGA 670FTW while the Mini houses a I5 3450 and EVGA 660TI SC. NO OC is going on both systems. I removed the top hard drive cages on both setups to increase airflow.

I am open to suggestions and fan replacement options. I want a quiet system but also want them to stay cool through long hour gaming sessions.


----------



## doyll

As promised here's a TY-140 cut from 152x141mm to 141x141mm
I know, it's black and they didn't make black housings on TY-140.. It's painted, so deal with it.








Cut with sliding compound miter saw with fine tooth finish blade. Plastic cut nice and clean. Cut so the 2 ribs going around in the outside are just cut off to the main body of housing. I cut off a little more than I wanted.. like 0.2-0.3mm too much.


----------



## All3n

Nice, +Rep for Mod.


----------



## doyll

Thanks!
Hardest part was setting up a stop to get cut right on both sides. .2mm isn't much on a saw.


----------



## Hasdrubal

Many thanks, +rep!


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Velcro to the side of the PSU, and pull the airflow into the case through the radiator.


5 Degree drop in avg CPU temp with no hit to mobo temps! +rep


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Velcro to the side of the PSU, and pull the airflow into the case through the radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 Degree drop in avg CPU temp with no hit to mobo temps! +rep
Click to expand...

That is an appreciable drop. Good going.


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> That is an appreciable drop. Good going.


Scratch that. Nasty side effect was Vid card temps almost doubled! Switched the fans back and all is better now. Thinking it's time to remove that middle bar and toss a 120mm Intake on top.


----------



## zer0entropy

OMG I want to build a Node 304 rig!


----------



## lowbudgethooker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zer0entropy*
> 
> OMG I want to build a Node 304 rig!


Yes you do! I use to be a Lian Li slut. But Fractal is stealing my heart...and wallet.


----------



## kyismaster

lol fractal is no where near as expensive as lian li xD, I gotta thank them so much for that.


----------



## TSXmike

Finished... For now.


----------



## ZeVo

Ugh I really want to remove the stock filter in the front and replace it with Demciflex, but I don't know how it'd work with my mod.

I want to do what ekg84 did with his 3000. I will first cut some cardboard to fit the front, then spray paint it black. Cut holes for both fans, then put tape on the panel and put it together. But how will I attach the filter? Unless I'd be taking the cardboard every month to clean it. I'm confused..


----------



## JMatzelle3

Thought i post my sexy R4 with its new 5.25 addition


----------



## K4IKEN

I need that controller... The built in one is great, but I want a little more control.


----------



## JMatzelle3

lol that controller would go amazing with that case. us.ncix.com has them


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol fractal is no where near as expensive as lian li xD, I gotta thank them so much for that.


Lian Li makes aluminium cases that are of very high quality, not really comparable with Fractal Design.


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol fractal is no where near as expensive as lian li xD, I gotta thank them so much for that.
> 
> 
> 
> Lian Li makes aluminium cases that are of very high quality, not really comparable with Fractal Design.
Click to expand...

Um, I've owned both, and Fractal Design uses a thicker gauge steel than Lian Li (in my experience). Both are mainstream companies that have comparable products at this price range. You cannot compare a $80 chassis to a $200 chassis objectively. Lian does have some added components for hot swapping ect., but that is included in the price. Frame for frame and skin for skin, I would prefer a FD over LL.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Um, I've owned both, and Fractal Design uses a thicker gauge steel than Lian Li (in my experience). Both are mainstream companies that have comparable products at this price range. You cannot compare a $80 chassis to a $200 chassis objectively. Lian does have some added components for hot swapping ect., but that is included in the price. Frame for frame and skin for skin, I would prefer a FD over LL.


I personally never been a fan of Lian Li cases. Some of them look ok. Comparing to Fractal Design is comparing apples and oranges though. The only thing they really have a common is its a computer case. Fractal uses Steel+plastic and Lian Li uses aluminum. With the use of aluminum nets a high cost of manufacturing, vs traditional steel. The aluminum cases however are vastly lighter, have better cooling characteristics, easier to mod.

Granted the Fractal cases are designed really well with thick high quality steel panels, they are heavy. Not a problem for most people, as their computer never gets moved. Personally I like Fractal cases could be even better if they put in a few more high end options. One thing that bugs me about my arc midi is the plastic front panel that looks like brushed aluminum. How about making a actual brushed aluminum front? Why are the dust filters for the front panel and top panel not removable? Why is the fan controller located in the rear of the case, with ghetto cable management?

I would love to see Fractal come out with a Arc Midi XL, with a few more 5.25" bays, and a good way to include a 360 radiator, combined with my other weak points (fan controller, front panel)


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Um, I've owned both, and Fractal Design uses a thicker gauge steel than Lian Li (in my experience).


That is one of the advantages of aluminium cases, not only its lighter already but you can design thinner cases and still have them very solid.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> That is one of the advantages of aluminium cases, not only its lighter already but you can design thinner cases and still have them very solid.


might as well use titanium


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> That is one of the advantages of aluminium cases, not only its lighter already but you can design thinner cases and still have them very solid.


My Lian Li PC-50 has thicker aluminum sheet than my R2 steel sheet is.


----------



## kyismaster

thin + aluminum = flimsy
steel + thin = brittle.
thin + titanium = god product. lol


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> thin + aluminum = flimsy
> steel + thin = brittle.
> thin + titanium = god product. lol


Trolololol


----------



## siggie30

Steel versus aluminum, same thickness, steel is stronger. Not sure why someone said different, but....

Fractal is an emerging company, and I hope they do well. LL still makes good cases, but I choose to support Fractal for reasons that cannot be said here.

I think a titanium case has already been made.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> but I choose to support Fractal for reasons that cannot be said here.


Your secret's safe with us..


----------



## vitality

I emailed Fractal CS and they said that the windowed side panel for the arc midi should be available on newegg and ncix by the end of this month, for anyone whose wondering.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vitality*
> 
> I emailed Fractal CS and they said that the windowed side panel for the arc midi should be available on newegg and ncix by the end of this month, for anyone whose wondering.


On September 10 they told me they'd be available by the end of October so I wouldn't hold my breath.


----------



## vitality

I just want my windowed side panel!!


----------



## lowbudgethooker

So I cut a top 120mm intake into my node 304. Drastic reduction in mobo, cpu and gpu temps. About 5C all around! Also, this case is just screaming for a rockabilly paint job. I am hunting down an airbrush artist on CL right now. After the nice flame paint...Going to try and cut the outline of either flaming dice or cards in the front panel and red led that puppy!


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowbudgethooker*
> 
> So I cut a top 120mm intake into my node 304. Drastic reduction in mobo, cpu and gpu temps. About 5C all around! Also, this case is just screaming for a rockabilly paint job. I am hunting down an airbrush artist on CL right now. After the nice flame paint...Going to try and cut the outline of either flaming dice or cards in the front panel and red led that puppy!


Share the carnage!!


----------



## bam06005

Would an R4 owner answer something for me?

Does a Noctua NH-D14 fit with a 140mm side panel fan installed?

I definitely want to keep the option to side-intake cool. If it doesn't, could someone recommend a comperable alternative to the NH-D14 that will fit? (Please don't say the Hyper Evo 212







)

And to just throw one more question in the mix...any good alternatives for 140mm fans for the R4 (balancing cooling/noise)?

I know there are a ton of reputable options: Corsair AF140, Noiseblocker BlackSilent, Noctua, Gentyle Typhoons, Thermalright, Bequiet...lots of them. But always appreciate personal opinions from actual experience!

Cheers!


----------



## lowbudgethooker

as soon as I pick up more sanding bits for the dremel. Need to smooth the cut out. No hits back from local airbrushers yet.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> On September 10 they told me they'd be available by the end of October so I wouldn't hold my breath.


Haha, they told me in November it's be available by the end of the month, so, yeah, don't hold your breath. Making your own window isn't too tough though. Here's mine I made a little while back:


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> Haha, they told me in November it's be available by the end of the month, so, yeah, don't hold your breath. Making your own window isn't too tough though. Here's mine I made a little while back:


Dat unicorn vomit..

Nice window mod though.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Dat unicorn vomit..
> 
> Nice window mod though.


lol yes, that is one ugly keyboard.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> lol yes, that is one ugly keyboard.


you can do better?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> you can do better?


yes i can.

its called leave my keyboard black. Well my personal opinion anyways.


----------



## siggie30

Some people are missing their "sack" of potatoes. (This is in reference to the flame for a unique keyboard). The keyboard is cool, and the window is also cool. Don't mind the haters.


----------



## AbdullahG

I'll be honest. The keyboard is a bit too colorful for MY tastes, but as long as the owner likes it, then I respect that.


----------



## kyismaster

possibly colorblind.

but

unique.

reminds me of indian corn


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> lol yes, that is one ugly keyboard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Some people are missing their "sack" of potatoes. (This is in reference to the flame for a unique keyboard). The keyboard is cool, and the window is also cool. Don't mind the haters.


^This.

The keyboard looks awesome imo!
Is it a QFR?


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Dat unicorn vomit..
> Nice window mod though.


CMYK isn't for everyone. I just wanted something with a little levity.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> ^This.
> The keyboard looks awesome imo!
> Is it a QFR?


Yes, it is. I was inspired by your QFR mod in the mechanical keyboard thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> lol yes, that is one ugly keyboard.


Taste is subjective. For example, you probably like the color of the water in your loop while I'm not super keen on it and would go for solid white tubing or a pastel color in the loop. I like my "unicorn vomit" keyboard since it gives a little humor and color to my otherwise minimalist and up tight looking Arc Midi build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Some people are missing their "sack" of potatoes. (This is in reference to the flame for a unique keyboard). The keyboard is cool, and the window is also cool. Don't mind the haters.


Haha, thanks. People seem to forget that people build and buy to their own aesthetic. I'd actually like to swap the keys for some of the Qwerkeys magenta keys with yellow lettering in the future but they're so expensive.

The side panel is incredibly easy to mod. They use a thick enough steel that it's pretty easy to work with and cut. The hardest part is cutting your acrylic. I have another panel lying around that I'm thinking of modding with a smoked acrylic panel so I can swap them out with my mood.


----------



## colforbin

I have a non-window R4. Does anyone know if you can just buy the windowed side? In case I feel like doing that one day.


----------



## ebduncan

don't get me wrong. I like that you modded your keyboard. I wouldn't have done it that way. That is just me, though,

your rig looks good, i just find the keyboard distasteful from my personal opinion anyways.

I am not trying to hate on your setup, just to me your keyboard is eye sore. As for my PC, I am going for a red and black theme, so the red water was a must in my book. You may not like it but that is not what matters, what matters the most is how i like it. Same with you and your keyboard. I may not like it, but all that matters is that you do.

Props on modding it, whether or not I would have done it in the same fashion.


----------



## karupt

Just a question guys: I want a silent case, so should I go for the Define Mini or R4? I do occasional gaming so temps during load may be a concern. Also, is noise levels between windowed and non-window R4 noticeable?


----------



## winniethepwn

I don't like that they got rid of the psu section separator thingy in the XL 2!


----------



## catbuster

just got my core 1k and to say the truth i am really impresed by the build quality of such cheap case!









will post some picks after build is done


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> Would an R4 owner answer something for me?
> Does a Noctua NH-D14 fit with a 140mm side panel fan installed?
> I definitely want to keep the option to side-intake cool. If it doesn't, could someone recommend a comperable alternative to the NH-D14 that will fit? (Please don't say the Hyper Evo 212
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> And to just throw one more question in the mix...any good alternatives for 140mm fans for the R4 (balancing cooling/noise)?
> I know there are a ton of reputable options: Corsair AF140, Noiseblocker BlackSilent, Noctua, Gentyle Typhoons, Thermalright, Bequiet...lots of them. But always appreciate personal opinions from actual experience!
> Cheers!


Anyone?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> Anyone?


Sure it will.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> thin + aluminum = flimsy
> steel + thin = brittle.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Trolololol


^ Basically.


----------



## Hasdrubal

I spent some time on my rig this morning while the boss was working:
- Installed a Thermalright Shaman on my Asus 560 ti DCU2/Top to reduce temps and noise at 100% load
- Replaced Thermalright X-Silent 14 by TY-147
- got rid of useless and unsightly temp probes

The end result at the moment:


The support frame on the GPU probably helps, as it isn't overly sagging down compared to pictures of reference video cards.

My modded the TY-147 to fit them with my trusty jeweller's saw (I really need to pick up a Dremel sooner or later), they ended up being loose in the front pop-in frame, so I inserted foam pads I had from leftover miniatures foam tray (always request to get the leftover foam, it has plenty of ppotential uses!). Et voila my ghetto Ty-147 rigging:



GPU delta T at 100% dropped by 13°C, but the GPU is now whisper quiet instead of being annoyingly load (75 mm fans at 3000 PRM are not fun, nor do they keep the card truly cool) ! I'll probably change the CPU heatsink next. The CM Hyper 212 Evo paired with A Nexus RealSilent PWM does its job, but load temps can be improved, plus the case is begging for more stuff to fill in the empty areas! The Archon and the PH-TC 14PE_BK are my favorite picks at the moment (the Archon for efficiency, the Phanteks for looks).


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Sure it will.


Sorry, but where in this video does he show/say that a NH-D14 fits with a 140mm side panel fan installed? I know the NH-D14 fits. I am asking because I am debating whether or not getting a top-down cooler or a regular tower cooler.

From the website specifications, the R4 has 170mm clearance. Subtract 25mm for a side panel fan and that's only 145mm. Most tower coolers are about 160mm tall. So yeah, not seeing how any tower cooler could fit, hence the top-down alternative.

I've seen benchmarks where the NH-C14 performs just as good as the NH-D14. I guess the next logical question would is a top-down cooler configuration going to interfere with air cirulation. I know push/pull is extremely popular as it just goes straight out the back. But I've seen benchmarks that show the side panel fan having the most significant affect on temperatures.


----------



## Bill Owen

Lots of people still asking me if you can fit 240 rads in the R4? Yes, and it will also fit 280 rad in front... Here is a Review and Dismantle video of the Define R4


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Sure it will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, but where in this video does he show/say that a NH-D14 fits with a 140mm side panel fan installed? I know the NH-D14 fits. I am asking because I am debating whether or not getting a top-down cooler or a regular tower cooler.
> 
> From the website specifications, the R4 has 170mm clearance. Subtract 25mm for a side panel fan and that's only 145mm. Most tower coolers are about 160mm tall. So yeah, not seeing how any tower cooler could fit, hence the top-down alternative.
> 
> I've seen benchmarks where the NH-C14 performs just as good as the NH-D14. I guess the next logical question would is a top-down cooler configuration going to interfere with air cirulation. I know push/pull is extremely popular as it just goes straight out the back. But I've seen benchmarks that show the side panel fan having the most significant affect on temperatures.
Click to expand...

Is this what your talking about?

http://www.overclock.net/t/628569/official-noctua-nh-d14-club/2840_20

Post: 2852


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Is this what your talking about?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/628569/official-noctua-nh-d14-club/2840_20
> Post: 2852


Actually, no. What I mean is fitting a 140mm fan on the non-window R4 side panel with a tower cooler.

It's not possible with a tower cooler. The alternative, as I said, would be a top-down cooler leaving plenty of room for a side panel fan. But after thinking about it some more and talking with other people, it wouldn't really be worth it. The top-down would disrupt the postive air pressure circulation from a front/bottom intake - back/top exhaust setup. Also the push/pull of the tower will help control circulation.

I do really like how he has the rig fitted. My only change to that fan setup would be a top/rear 140mm fan. That would balance the intake/exhaust ratio while still maintaining a postive pressure system. Oh and I might also rotate the drive cage to maximise airflow over the drives. This would sacrifice cabling (they would most likely show a tiny bit) but I'd imagine it would help temps. All about the circulation!









Question - Is the bottom clearance between the case and the floor enough for optimal airflow for bottom fan? I have seen people raise the R4 up on wooden planks and I really don't want to do that.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> Question - Is the bottom clearance between the case and the floor enough for optimal airflow for bottom fan? I have seen people raise the R4 up on wooden planks and I really don't want to do that.


My belief is no it's too close to floor. So I remove the feet and put this under my R2


The triangles are for to index the Silverstone magnetic filter into place without needing to tip case on it's side and the little buttons on it are silicone door/drawer quieters.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Anybody else got a 2500K, H80i and an R4? If so what are your temps like at stock speeds? Thanks.


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> My belief is no it's too close to floor. So I remove the feet and put this under my R2
> 
> The triangles are for to index the Silverstone magnetic filter into place without needing to tip case on it's side and the little buttons on it are silicone door/drawer quieters.


+rep just for the effort! I was only thinking about something like furniture feet cups. That's a real nice mod.









Thanks for the tip. I will keep my eyes open for a solution to raising the case.


----------



## bam06005

What's the best way to go about hooking up fans in the R4?

So take the included fan controller (up to 3 fans). Then throw in, say a Gigabyte UD3H z77 that has four 4-pin headers and a cpu fan header.

Then take a 5 fan configuration: 2 front intake, 1 bottom intake, 1 top/back exhaust, and 1 back exhaust.

Oh yeah, don't forget the cooler. Something like a NH-D14. That only comes with stock 3-pin fans, so I could go with a splitter to run the entire cooler unit off the cpu header.

So what three fans would plug into the controller? Or maybe would you run splitters and have everything running into the controller? I do like pwm and the UD3H would do just fine automatically regulating the fans. Or maybe have the controller hooked up to the 3 intakes, then when I am gaming I can crank them up and then just drop them back down when I'm finished, leaving the exhaust hooked up to mobo headers.

I really don't know what's optimal. I want a clean look, that's for sure.


----------



## ZeVo

Should I throw away the stock fan filters for the Midi and buy some new ones? What would you guys recommend?


----------



## Hasdrubal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> What's the best way to go about hooking up fans in the R4?
> So take the included fan controller (up to 3 fans). Then throw in, say a Gigabyte UD3H z77 that has four 4-pin headers and a cpu fan header.
> Then take a 5 fan configuration: 2 front intake, 1 bottom intake, 1 top/back exhaust, and 1 back exhaust.
> Oh yeah, don't forget the cooler. Something like a NH-D14. That only comes with stock 3-pin fans, so I could go with a splitter to run the entire cooler unit off the cpu header.
> So what three fans would plug into the controller? Or maybe would you run splitters and have everything running into the controller? I do like pwm and the UD3H would do just fine automatically regulating the fans. Or maybe have the controller hooked up to the 3 intakes, then when I am gaming I can crank them up and then just drop them back down when I'm finished, leaving the exhaust hooked up to mobo headers.
> I really don't know what's optimal. I want a clean look, that's for sure.


It's all depending on the fans you choose, and how close the speed you'll run them at is close to their maximal speed.

I would certainly recommend to hook the 2 front fans to the same controller header, and they will probably be generating most of the noise. The bottom intake would be allocated to another controller header (I'm assuming all case fans will be identital) or the same header as well, if wattage is sufficient. It's depending on how you'd like to optimize noise (bottom intake tend to be slightly less noisy than front intakes). The last header would run both exhaust fans at the same speed (ther ationale behind that the more heat is generated, the more fans need to exhaust it).
I'm confused bu the CPU fan headrer on the mobo: I would assume it had 1 4-pins CPU header for PWM control, and potentially a second header (3-pinsonly) to power a second CPU fan (similar setup to the ASRock P67 Extreme 6 I have). Anyway, I thoroughly recommend running the CPU and GPU on PWM to optimize noise!

I'm using the Arc Midi, which shares most of its internal with the R4, and run hte same configuration of fan as you intend to. My setup is (with 4 fan channels)
- 2 front intake fans (Thermalright TY-147) on a single fan controller header
- 1 bottom intake fan (Thermalright X-Silent 140, to be replaced by another TY-147) on a separate fan controller header
- 1 top/back exhaust fan (Phobya G-silent 18) on a separate fan controller header
- 1 back exhaust fan (Thermalright X-Silent 140, to be replaced by another TY-147) on a separate fan controller header
If I were you, I would run the 3 intake fans from the R4 controller, let let the mobo rake care of heat exhaust.

Hope this helps!


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasdrubal*
> 
> I'm using the Arc Midi, which shares most of its internal with the R4, and run hte same configuration of fan as you intend to. My setup is (with 4 fan channels)
> - 2 front intake fans (Thermalright TY-147) on a single fan controller header
> - 1 bottom intake fan (Thermalright X-Silent 140, to be replaced by another TY-147) on a separate fan controller header
> - 1 top/back exhaust fan (Phobya G-silent 18) on a separate fan controller header
> - 1 back exhaust fan (Thermalright X-Silent 140, to be replaced by another TY-147) on a separate fan controller header
> If I were you, I would run the 3 intake fans from the R4 controller, let let the mobo rake care of heat exhaust.
> Hope this helps!


Thank you so much for this really detailed response. I think that is exactly how I will do it - intake on controller and exhaust/cpu cooler on mobo.

I see you listed your fans and are running lots of Thermalrights. I actually just finished an excel spreadsheet comparison of 140mm fans









I have compared the following:
-Fractal R2 (case stock fans)
-Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition
-Aerocool Shark Black
-Thermalright X-Silent
-Scythe Kaze Maru 2 Slipstream
-Noiseblocker BlackSilent PK-2
-BeQuiet USC

When comparing these models, the stock R2s aren't actually that bad. They are all pretty good. Those Aerocool Sharks would be pretty good for the front intake. They have the highest rpm at 12v compared to the others but they have significantly higher airflow/pressure at that speed. Even at low 7v they are impressive due to the 15 fan blades. And if I run intake on controller and turn them up for gaming, well noise wouldn't be too much of an issue considering that's the time when the system is going to be loudest (i.e., gpu). Also the BeQuiet is a great company, great service, long warrant, and reputable. It's so hard to choose!

I see you have the X-Silents and are going for the TY-147. My only concern with the circular Thermalright 140mm fans (w/120mm fittings) is if they would actually fit alright in the R4. I am assuming they do now if you use them in the Arc Midi.

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=22957204#post22957204
picture in post 254
-Looks like 2x TY-141s don't fit in front intake (unless modified). So could put the two stock R2s in the front then three TY-140s (bottom, back, top/back).


----------



## mrrockwell

Update on my build

More on that
http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine/20#post_18887258


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> I was only thinking about something like furniture feet cups. That's a real nice mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I will keep my eyes open for a solution to raising the case.


Hadn't thought of using furniture feet cups. How much would they raise it?

You could use the bolt on casters and mount them directly to case.


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> I was only thinking about something like furniture feet cups. That's a real nice mod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I will keep my eyes open for a solution to raising the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Hadn't thought of using furniture feet cups. How much would they raise it?
> 
> You could use the bolt on casters and mount them directly to case.
Click to expand...

There are a lot of styles of "rollers". Industrial, self cleaning, roller style. The smallest I have used were about 1" lift.

EDIT: What type of substrate? I relooked at omniball which are 21mm tall, but the "wheel" is pretty small.


----------



## ZeVo

Finally removed the bottom hard drive cage!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> -Looks like 2x TY-141s don't fit in front intake (unless modified). So could put the two stock R2s in the front then three TY-140s (bottom, back, top/back).


Wish you had a TY-140 series to test and compare to your other fans.

If you have access to a good miter saw with a good finish blade or a table saw modding TY-140 series is a cakewalk. I trimmed of about.2-.3mm too much.. That's why the full width cream color shows.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> There are a lot of styles of "rollers". Industrial, self cleaning, roller style. The smallest I have used were about 1" lift.


For 2 140mm bottom fans you need approx 2"; That give fans similar airflow area as their face area is. I can hear the difference in noise between stock feet and 50mm.


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Hadn't thought of using furniture feet cups. How much would they raise it?


Definitely not as high as wheel casters. Would you have to drill new holes into the bottom of the hole to fit them? Or what if you just got some longer rubber feet? I can't tell if the existing R4 rubber feet are screwed in or actually glued into the entire feet mount (I don't own the case, yet!).



If they are just screwed in then I could find replacement rubber feet no problem. I suppose though you could always just superglue them together








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Wish you had a TY-140 series to test and compare to your other fans.
> If you have access to a good miter saw with a good finish blade or a table saw modding TY-140 series is a cakewalk. ]


I am actually considering this. I really want the TY-147s. Not only do I get the Thermalright 140mm fan performance, but the 147 comes in black/white to match the stock R4 fans. I am assuming the whole entire TY-140 series has identical casing plastic, so if you successfully trimmed thst 141 (did you spray paint it black?), then I should be able to square up the 147.

Do you think the TY-140 series is as good as or better than the others I listed? They are all fairly comperable I suppose. It sorta comes down to availability and pricing at this stage.


----------



## doyll

Pretty sure R4 feet are screed on from the bottom. If you like it setting on feet you could make some spacers out of wood to go between feet and case and put them on with longer screws.

I think the new TY-140 series fans are made of same or very similar plastic so should cut no problem. Right now I can get TY-147 for £5.99 pre-order special.


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Pretty sure R4 feet are screed on from the bottom. If you like it setting on feet you could make some spacers out of wood to go between feet and case and put them on with longer screws.


Another great idea! Cheers!


----------



## mrrockwell

Since lot of you would like to have a window on your Defines or Arcs heres a little how to window mod. Sorry I don't have any pictures of cuting the side panel but its straight forvard job with the dremmel.
I couldn't find black tinted plexi so I did it myself. I used car window film fro 3m.

To attach plexi to the side pannel I used 3m double sided tape.


And here's end result


More on that here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine/20#post_18891115


----------



## K4IKEN

My computer decided to die on me a few days ago.







I think its the PSU. I hear this weird squealing sound coming from the PSU when I run power through it. Whenever I try to turn the computer on it comes on for a split second and then powers off. The squealing from the PSU stops and the power indicator led on my mobo remains lit. Wish I had another PSU to test my theory.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Since lot of you would like to have a window on your Defines or Arcs heres a little how to window mod. Sorry I don't have any pictures of cuting the side panel but its straight forvard job with the dremmel.
> I couldn't find black tinted plexi so I did it myself. I used car window film fro 3m.
> 
> To attach plexi to the side pannel I used 3m double sided tape.
> 
> And here's end result
> 
> More on that here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine/20#post_18891115


jaw

dropping


----------



## adi518

Cool idea but make good photos to show it off properly.


----------



## ZeVo

What thickness should the acrylic be for a side panel?

Also, does anyone have a link for some smoked acrylic?


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> What thickness should the acrylic be for a side panel?
> Also, does anyone have a link for some smoked acrylic?


The thinner the better. The panel in mine is 1/8" thick. You can grab some smoked acrylic from Amazon. You might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere, but if you have Prime, it ships free.


----------



## ZeVo

Thanks for the reply.

I found some on MNPCTech for the same price. Now I need to decide on what design I want. I like how mrrockwell did his but I don't want to steal it.


----------



## Meisseli

Hey all you guys!

redid loop and added some acryl to the build... heres how she now stands!

Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics!
Hope you like it!











and oh if i'm not already in the list the Can I Join?


----------



## Nuddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> Hey all you guys!
> redid loop and added some acryl to the build... heres how she now stands!
> Sorry for the crappy cellphone pics!
> Hope you like it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and oh if i'm not already in the list the Can I Join?


Hi, nice:thumb:

I´m about to do almost the same in a R4, but with a 240 (top) and 280 in front, could you plz tell me your loop order, cause I can´t really see it clearly from the pics...
Do you have the exhaust from the 360 going behind the mobo plate to the res/pump?
Looks nice anyways, need to try it out, ftm I´m planning my loop order, while waiting for orders to arrive...



Just got a bay res and will try it in the loop, I won´t use the swiftech, but might also go for a tuberes or a tuberes-top for the D5...

I´m also looking forward to pics from Adi, when he gets his res mounted:winksmil1


----------



## Nuddi




----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuddi*
> 
> Hi, nice:thumb:
> I´m about to do almost the same in a R4, but with a 240 (top) and 280 in front, could you plz tell me your loop order, cause I can´t really see it clearly from the pics...
> Do you have the exhaust from the 360 going behind the mobo plate to the res/pump?
> Looks nice anyways, need to try it out, ftm I´m planning my loop order, while waiting for orders to arrive...
> Just got a bay res and will try it in the loop, I won´t use the swiftech, but might also go for a tuberes or a tuberes-top for the D5...
> I´m also looking forward to pics from Adi, when he gets his res mounted:winksmil1


Thank you!

I have my in order res-pump-240rad-cpu-GPU-360rad-res.

And yes that 360 outlet goes behind the motherboard plate...
I also placed the pump behind the 240rad, tight but with a bit of padding noiseless solution and in my opinion pretty good looking too...









When you get your build in motion i wont to see pics!









Meisseli


----------



## FunBox

Has anyone here mounted a RX240 In the front with the HDD bays removed?
I'm planning on running a cpu loop with 2 Corsair SP120 fans and stealth mounting my ssd to the back. I'm also curious as to what my option are for mounting a single HDD after this. I would like to take advantage of the bottom 120mm Mounts but i cant seem to find any bracket that will fullfill this purpose. The reason i cant mount the HDD in the 5.25 bays is cause the RX240 reservoir/pump combo takes up 2 5.25 bays

If anyone has any pictures of any of this being done i would greatly appreciate it


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> Has anyone here mounted a RX240 In the front with the HDD bays removed?
> I'm planning on running a cpu loop with 2 Corsair SP120 fans and stealth mounting my ssd to the back. I'm also curious as to what my option are for mounting a single HDD after this. I would like to take advantage of the bottom 120mm Mounts but i cant seem to find any bracket that will fullfill this purpose. The reason i cant mount the HDD in the 5.25 bays is cause the RX240 reservoir/pump combo takes up 2 5.25 bays
> If anyone has any pictures of any of this being done i would greatly appreciate it


as for the HDD you could buy some 3mm acryl which is very fun and easy to work with. Not to mention you can do almost anything from it. Im thinking of a black box filled with some foam to dampen the noise (leave the bottom open for some ventilation). Then a 120mm to HDD screw placement adapter made with that same acryl. bolt the adapter and hdd that 120mm and then bolt that box on top of the HDD using those HDD side screw holes. The box is not a must have but mostly for aesthetic and noise reasons... if you want i could use my amazing (read Poor) paint skills to make you a pic, if you want...

Meisseli


----------



## FunBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meisseli*
> 
> as for the HDD you could buy some 3mm acryl which is very fun and easy to work with. Not to mention you can do almost anything from it. Im thinking of a black box filled with some foam to dampen the noise (leave the bottom open for some ventilation). Then a 120mm to HDD screw placement adapter made with that same acryl. bolt the adapter and hdd that 120mm and then bolt that box on top of the HDD using those HDD side screw holes. The box is not a must have but mostly for aesthetic and noise reasons... if you want i could use my amazing (read Poor) paint skills to make you a pic, if you want...
> Meisseli


Thanks for the reply, Problem is though, I've relocated from Norway to the US and have no tools besides a basic screwdriver kit. Some form of premade bracket under 20ish dollars would be ideal. Also thanks for the offer for the paint picture
How did you do the Carbon on the 5.25 bays on your build if i may ask? I have some shipping right now and had planned to do the same thing


----------



## freeze

My Fractal Core 1000

1st Place Best in Looks "SFF Category" - Games and Gadgets Expo 2012 (Davao City - Philippines)

(sorry for the phone cam)


(sorry for the phone cam)


----------



## Meisseli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FunBox*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Problem is though, I've relocated from Norway to the US and have no tools besides a basic screwdriver kit. Some form of premade bracket under 20ish dollars would be ideal. Also thanks for the offer for the paint picture
> How did you do the Carbon on the 5.25 bays on your build if i may ask? I have some shipping right now and had planned to do the same thing


in my opinion that carbon on my 5.25 is a bit ugly cos of the poor finish but what i did was measure the 5.25 bay side panel and just cut that carbon tape to size. Then just stick it there... one down side is that when removed you had to do it all over again, that why I now moved to acryl plate on the 5.25 side (see pictures a couple posts back)

you could do it tho is to make a thin acryl plate for it and then stick that carbon tape to that acryl plate... after that glue some magnets to that acryl plate and voila! you have a reusable 5.25 side cover with carbon look... just because you never know when you want to remove that optical drive you have in there ( or atleast for me, im always having new ideas for my rig so....)

hope this helps!

Meisseli


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freeze*
> 
> My Fractal Core 1000
> 1st Place Best in Looks "SFF Category" - Games and Gadgets Expo 2012 (Davao City - Philippines)
> (sorry for the phone cam)
> 
> (sorry for the phone cam)


dat shiny door oooooo aaaaaa please elaborate


----------



## BBEG

Fractal Define R4, Black, Non-window, $80 w/ free shipping on Newegg

Well, I held off as long as I could. I've now got a shiny new R4 inbound. It'll probably be my last ATX case, so I'm gonna dress it up as nice as I can. mrrockwell's front 360 rad mod (for Swiftech MCR320 QP Res Rev2), drive mounts behind mobo panel for 1x SSD and 1x HDDs, and a front door mod (either high gloss like freeze's or carbon fiber like mrrockwell's) at the very least.


----------



## winniethepwn

Happy with the way this turned out! Paint was still wet when I took the pic. Gonna do the little NZXT on the fan controller later.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> Happy with the way this turned out! Paint was still wet when I took the pic. Gonna do the little NZXT on the fan controller later.


need light coats.

its gonna dry uneven, but very nice look


----------



## winniethepwn

I did several coats. It's fully dry now, and looks solid white everywhere. No bumps or missing spots.


----------



## void

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freeze*
> 
> My Fractal Core 1000
> 1st Place Best in Looks "SFF Category" - Games and Gadgets Expo 2012 (Davao City - Philippines)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (sorry for the phone cam)
> 
> (sorry for the phone cam)


.

Awesome mod, love the stuff I've seen people doing with the front panel of the core series.


----------



## Hasdrubal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> Thank you so much for this really detailed response. I think that is exactly how I will do it - intake on controller and exhaust/cpu cooler on mobo.
> I see you listed your fans and are running lots of Thermalrights. I actually just finished an excel spreadsheet comparison of 140mm fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have compared the following:
> -Fractal R2 (case stock fans)
> -Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition
> -Aerocool Shark Black
> -Thermalright X-Silent
> -Scythe Kaze Maru 2 Slipstream
> -Noiseblocker BlackSilent PK-2
> -BeQuiet USC
> When comparing these models, the stock R2s aren't actually that bad. They are all pretty good. Those Aerocool Sharks would be pretty good for the front intake. They have the highest rpm at 12v compared to the others but they have significantly higher airflow/pressure at that speed. Even at low 7v they are impressive due to the 15 fan blades. And if I run intake on controller and turn them up for gaming, well noise wouldn't be too much of an issue considering that's the time when the system is going to be loudest (i.e., gpu). Also the BeQuiet is a great company, great service, long warrant, and reputable. It's so hard to choose!
> I see you have the X-Silents and are going for the TY-147. My only concern with the circular Thermalright 140mm fans (w/120mm fittings) is if they would actually fit alright in the R4. I am assuming they do now if you use them in the Arc Midi.
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=22957204#post22957204
> picture in post 254
> -Looks like 2x TY-141s don't fit in front intake (unless modified). So could put the two stock R2s in the front then three TY-140s (bottom, back, top/back).


You're correct, the TY-14X series don't fit in the front intake, unless modded, this is however rather easy to do. They might actually fit easier within the R4 than the Arc Midi, due to the different front fan holes in the R4 (while the Midi in only a holding frame without any hole): you'll probably be able to screw in them in, else a 120-140 adapter would do the trick, and probably reduce noise as well (less turbulence).

I wasn't impressed by the stock R2's, they are rather noisy for my taste, and the motor has a clicking noise unless turned down to 8V or less.

All the fans you've listed are indeed very good. I moved from X-Silent to TY-147 fans because the TY-147 has, IMO, a better control range. Both fans have a somewhat similar starting RPM range (close to 500 RPM), but the TY-147 pushes a bit more air. And it looks cool









However, the noise quality of the X-Silent is slightly better, it has a deeper and smoother tonality when turned 750 RPM or higher.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Hope everyone had a good Xmas. My windowed side panel turned up on Xmas eve and I couldn't wait to swap it over. Looks really nice. Need to sort out some nice lighting now and sleeve my power supply.


----------



## lundrog

I have a Design Define R4, anyone know if the Noctua NF-P14 FLX 140mm Case cooler's fit well?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> I have a Design Define R4, anyone know if the Noctua NF-P14 FLX 140mm Case cooler's fit well?


On the Website is said that the cas will Support 120mm fans as well as 140mm fans.
So you will be fine with the fans


----------



## JMatzelle3

I have a huge problem my R4 one of my standoffs are not aligned correctly and i mean its off by a lot. My retailer will not take it back since it was over 30 Days and the US Fractal design does not replace chassis.

I guess im out money.


----------



## K4IKEN

I don't understand your problem.. Maybe pictures would be better to illustrate your issue.


----------



## All3n

Drill a small hole and tap a thread.

If the metal is too thin or you can't borrow a tap, just drill the hole and secure the standoff with a nut.

It's a hassle but not the end of the world.


----------



## JMatzelle3

If i were to put a hole in the right place then the standoff will just fall right through since its off by a mm







it will cause a big hole. its like a small issue that can cause a big one!


----------



## cgull

you'll have to drill/file the hole then use a nut and washer to secure the standoff


----------



## Techn0

can some one tell me how is it called, when someone put cover behind hdd cages, when cages are removed you cant see rear panel, thanks


----------



## JMatzelle3

Don;t quite understand what your asking


----------



## winniethepwn

It's not really called anything... most people put up a piece of black acrylic to mount something to (like an SSD).


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> can some one tell me how is it called, when someone put cover behind hdd cages, when cages are removed you cant see rear panel, thanks


I call it a false wall or a motherboard tray extension if you keep it looking the same.


----------



## 72bluenova

Did Fractal pull the ARC Midi off the shelf? I guess that is why Newegg went on sale spree for that case, now they don't even list it.









NCIX does not show it either.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> Did Fractal pull the ARC Midi off the shelf? I guess that is why Newegg went on sale spree for that case, now they don't even list it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NCIX does not show it either.


maybe midi v2 is coming out like how they did fractal design XL r2


----------



## 72bluenova

Let's hope so. Funny thing I never bought my fractal case







Still deciding what to do with my 550D


----------



## adridu59

The TY-147 is a better fan than the Arctic F14 right?

Thanks for your answers


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> The TY-147 is a better fan than the Arctic F14 right?
> Thanks for your answers


I would say yes. I've read the Arctic fans aren't even FDB.

If I could have mounted the TY-147 in my Midi without modding I'd be so happy. All I see are positive reviews on them.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I would say yes. I've read the Arctic fans aren't even FDB.
> If I could have mounted the TY-147 in my Midi without modding I'd be so happy. All I see are positive reviews on them.


Yes, the Arctics have rifle bearings.

How did you mount the 147? Nice build BTW.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Yes, the Arctic have rifle bearings.
> How did you mount the 147? Nice build BTW.


I guess I worded it odd, so I'll try again.

Tator Tot actually looked inside the Arctic fan and found out it wasn't even a FDB, but a Rifle Bearing.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1321074/tator-tots-big-quiet-120mm-140mm-fan-round-up

On how you would mount the TY-147, I have no clue. I actually had the TY-140 a while back when I didn't even know what overclock meant, and I couldn't mount it in the Midi, so I ended up giving it to a friend. I know I read a post of someone here saying they mounted it with some zip ties. I just gave up trying to mount it as I didn't want to do any modding to my case.

doyll could probably help you out too as he has three TY-140 fans mounted in his R2.

Also thanks for the compliment. I think it looks like crap now but hopefully I will get my cables sleeved!


----------



## bam06005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> How did you mount the 147? Nice build BTW.


All you have to do is square off the two rounded sides.

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/5380#post_18887411


----------



## doyll

Isn't the R4 setup a 140mm clip-in of some sort? The flat sides of the cut down TY-140 series fan are about 60mm. Both the cut sides and the original sides. Is that long enough to clip into the R4 front mounts?

You know if you guys were to give me an R4 I'm sure I can figure out how we can mount TY-140 series fans in them.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bam06005*
> 
> All you have to do is square off the two rounded sides.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/5380#post_18887411


I see. I think I could do something like this:



http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=22957204#post22957204


----------



## kyismaster

everytime i buy a new case, I sell my old one


----------



## ZeVo

When I was working with my comp I had my front panel on the ground and I hit it and now it is pretty scratched up. Not deep scratches, but light ones all over it. Would cleaning it then spray painting it cover them up?


----------



## Flanders finest

If the scratches aren't to deep, you can try removing them with rubbing compound.


----------



## ZeVo

Yeah I read online that I should use rubbing compound.

Any specific product you would recommend?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Yeah I read online that I should use rubbing compound.
> Any specific product you would recommend?


something with not much cutting power. A polishing compound would probably work better in your case. If the scratches are light and barely noticeable, you could always use a sharpie and color them back in.


----------



## ZeVo

The scratches aren't that bad, but maybe polishing compound would be better.

I found this on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002VRAEG/ref=aw_cr_item_title

Would I need to sand it first?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> The scratches aren't that bad, but maybe polishing compound would be better.
> I found this on Amazon:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002VRAEG/ref=aw_cr_item_title
> Would I need to sand it first?


that stuff is like sanding. Its heavy duty rubbing compound , that will just strip the paint off, and likely scratch the plastic. You need something with less cutting power.

something like this

http://www.autogeek.net/3mperllrubco.html

fine cut is what your looking for.


----------



## Raincity007

Hello, can anybody confirm that a Coolmaster 212 EVO and a Noctua NF-P14 will fit as a side intake in the R-4.

Thanks


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raincity007*
> 
> Hello, can anybody confirm that a Coolmaster 212 EVO and a Noctua NF-P14 will fit as a side intake in the R-4.
> Thanks


They will fit booth no Problem


----------



## Raincity007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> They will fit booth no Problem


Thanks alot


----------



## gtsteviiee

Whatever happened to Arc Midi? Would the R4 be a good sidegrade or a slight upgrade to my Lian-Li PC-K62? I've been looking for something more professional looking and the R4 or Midi look nice.


----------



## ZeVo

I think the Midi is getting replaced. Or maybe it's just out of stock.

If silence is what you want the R4 is perfect. The Midi has good airflow and is especially good when water cooling.


----------



## karupt

How much louder is the windowed version of this case than the non-window one?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> How much louder is the windowed version of this case than the non-window one?


i see no difference because the windowed one has sound dampening too.


----------



## BBEG

I don't think sound damping has been shown to have any real effect on overall system noise.

Also, I want to thank Newegg/Fedex shipping for the nice ding in the right-side panel of my shiny new R4.









(System migration won't happen until I've got the new motherboard. No sense in building then rebuilding if I don't have to.)


----------



## sherlock

Been watching this on Tom's for the past few days, 9-way showdown between Quiet Cases and R4 emerged victorious:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews...ilence-1-silverstone-ft-02s-usb3,3378-17.html


----------



## svenge

Does anyone know where I can find a .pdf of the manual for the Define R4? I tried looking on their site, but all I could find was a "product sheet", which seems to be just a glorified promotional flyer.

The reason I ask is because I'd like to be a member in good standing for this club, but I'm not about to buy a case without being able to RTFM _in advance_ and see if there's anything that would cause me problems with installation...


----------



## BBEG

There's not a whole lot the manual will show you that you can't find in greater detail in the various online reviews. The English section is literally 2 pages. The exploded view is somewhat useful; if you want I can upload a cell pic of it.

First impressions of the R4 are positive. It's solid/sturdy, has lots of space, and is going to be fun to build in and on. I suspect I'll be replacing the entire plastic front facade with aluminum or steel, though. Since I'll be watercooling and cutting up the front anyway, I have no need of the plastic fan mounts. I like the solid front / vented side look and concept though, so I'll definitely be replicating that.


----------



## TechCrazy

Im guessing you wanted english? Let me know because theres also german, spanish, italian, japanese, korean, polish, russian, french, and swedish


----------



## mshaddix

I'm loving my R4 but I ran into a problem today. My built in fan controller's Molex connector broke. I took the pins out of the plastic casing and plugged it straight into the PSU molex connector. My question is, is this safe? Could I rap the exposed leads with electrical tape and it be okay? Or are they fine exposed?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mshaddix*
> 
> I'm loving my R4 but I ran into a problem today. My built in fan controller's Molex connector broke. I took the pins out of the plastic casing and plugged it straight into the PSU molex connector. My question is, is this safe? Could I rap the exposed leads with electrical tape and it be okay? Or are they fine exposed?


its fine, just make sure the leads don't touch


----------



## lurker2501

I'll just leave it here.


----------



## BlackRat

Hi Guys,
I have a Fractal Design Arc Midi, it is currently housing my rig as spec'd in my sig.
I am planning to start modding the case in the New Year, but and I am looking for a few more ideas.
Has anyone modded a Arc yet, Google does not produce as much results on Modded Fractal Design Arc Midi's.
Regards
[email protected]


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mshaddix*
> 
> I'm loving my R4 but I ran into a problem today. My built in fan controller's Molex connector broke. I took the pins out of the plastic casing and plugged it straight into the PSU molex connector. My question is, is this safe? Could I rap the exposed leads with electrical tape and it be okay? Or are they fine exposed?


Same thing happened with me, I was able to get it back in the connector though. Honestly, I absolutely HATE molex connectors. I have the hardest time using them with anything. If the pins don't line up correctly then one of them gets pushed out so you have to sit there and use the precision of a seasoned brain surgeon just to plug up some lights or a fan. I wish they would just do away with molex all together. Would certainly make my computer life easier.

/rant









Still loving my R4 though!


----------



## mshaddix

Tell me about it! I do not like them either.

Do you think the leads will be fine, just plugged straight into the PSU Molex? They aren't touching, but they are exposed. I'm thinking as long as they don't come into a conductive surface they will be fine?


----------



## All3n

You can't have any exposed voltage, it cant be that hard to put a bit of electrical tape to isolate each connection from each other and everything else.

I also hate Molex, mainly because they are bulky. I remove them and solder the wires directly together.


----------



## Janac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> Dear fellow fractal owners, MOTM contest is a really tight race this month, if you didnt vote yet please go HERE and vote for the build that you think deserves to win
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im participating, here is my build:


where did you buy these sleeved PSU cables?

Very nice build.


----------



## MiiX

He made it himself.


----------



## DJKAY

Made myself a window and added LEDs to my ARC MIDI




Spoiler: More Pics








What do you guys think about it?

BTW: I hate Molex connectors too


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Made myself a window and added LEDs to my ARC MIDI
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think about it?
> BTW: I hate Molex connectors too












big like


----------



## All3n

I like those white LEDs. I just tried yellow in my R4 because my keyboard, mouse and R4 power switch are all yellow. Instead I am switching to white because I think it makes a much better colour for case lighting, at least compared to yellow.

This picture gives me an idea of what to expect. Nice.


----------



## Nuddi

Trying to figure out a nice loop with 2 rads in the R4





280 fitted in the stock plastic front, but ugly, maybe I´ll mod/rebuild the whole front....


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> I like those white LEDs. I just tried yellow in my R4 because my keyboard, mouse and R4 power switch are all yellow. Instead I am switching to white because I think it makes a much better colour for case lighting, at least compared to yellow.
> This picture gives me an idea of what to expect. Nice.


They are REALLY bright and do thire Job quiet good IMO.
Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> big like


Thanks


----------



## DJKAY

Double post


----------



## Techn0

i was wondering will h40 fit in arc midi, on corsair page it says that h40 uses 120mm fans


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> The scratches aren't that bad, but maybe polishing compound would be better.
> I found this on Amazon:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002VRAEG/ref=aw_cr_item_title
> Would I need to sand it first?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> that stuff is like sanding. Its heavy duty rubbing compound , that will just strip the paint off, and likely scratch the plastic. You need something with less cutting power.
> something like this
> http://www.autogeek.net/3mperllrubco.html
> fine cut is what your looking for.


Did you try the 3M Fast Cut Plus Perfect-it III™?
From what I've seen on their website this is their latest product.

Also *ZeVo*, could you post some feedback if you use the 3M stuff?
I'm considering the same for my case (my aluminium-made external HDD has left some tiny traces on the top of it) - but I wonder if it will work as good on the Core 3000 since its uses a grainy coating.


----------



## caffeinescandal

So I just found out that the XL is getting discontinued, for the XL 2. The XL has 4 x External 5.25" Drive Bays & 10 x Internal 3.5" Drive Bays while the XL 2 has 4 x External 5.25" Drive Bays & 8 x Internal 3.5" Drive Bays, which is a downgrade IMO. Does anyone know a case that is like the XL, that is easy on the eyes and has plenty of hard drive space? Or retailers that still carry the XL?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuddi*
> 
> Trying to figure out a nice loop with 2 rads in the R4
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 280 fitted in the stock plastic front, but ugly, maybe I´ll mod/rebuild the whole front....


Finally a proper loop in an R4!! More pics please!!!

Edit: do you have a build log?


----------



## ZeVo

I might actually leave it he way it is.

I'll try contacting FD to see if they'd be able to sell me one.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> i was wondering will h40 fit in arc midi, on corsair page it says that h40 uses 120mm fans


Ofcourse it will fit.


----------



## Nuddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Finally a proper loop in an R4!! More pics please!!!
> Edit: do you have a build log?


No log yet, I'll start one later today and there will be pics..


----------



## adi518

A good loop is a loop that has minimal crossing.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuddi*
> 
> Trying to figure out a nice loop with 2 rads in the R4
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 280 fitted in the stock plastic front, but ugly, maybe I´ll mod/rebuild the whole front....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


great, you got it all in there.. looks like a great start!

just to let you know it isnt necessary to have a rad before or after a component. but
i'd run some benchmarks on your routing and then go for a change up to compare
and look for minimal clustering of tubing.

you might look into this for a flow chart:
res->pump->280RAD->lower GPU fitting->240RAD->CPU->res
turning the upper rad will allow the run from the GPU to rad short, rad->CPU short
and less cluster behind res.

airdeano


----------



## raptorxrx

Well I have a problem.

I built a new computer-the one in my sig less than a week ago. Whenever I install the computer in the case, it refuses to boot. The fans briefly spin and then stop. I have to disconnect the power cord and reconnect it just to get a brief fan spin up. The weird part is that I uninstalled everything and it runs outside of the case: if I re install the components, it works for 6 hours or so, than goes back to the weird fan spin up. I've never had a problem like this before, and am not sure where to start.

Parts:
Fractal Arc Midi
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H
i5-3570k
Hyper 212 Evo
Seasonic X-650
MSI GTX 670 PE

Any advice would be really appreciated


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> Well I have a problem.
> I built a new computer-the one in my sig less than a week ago. Whenever I install the computer in the case, it refuses to boot. The fans briefly spin and then stop. I have to disconnect the power cord and reconnect it just to get a brief fan spin up. The weird part is that I uninstalled everything and it runs outside of the case: if I re install the components, it works for 6 hours or so, than goes back to the weird fan spin up. I've never had a problem like this before, and am not sure where to start.
> Parts:
> Fractal Arc Midi
> Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H
> i5-3570k
> Hyper 212 Evo
> Seasonic X-650
> MSI GTX 670 PE
> Any advice would be really appreciated


Press your 8 pin 12v rails in HARD, worked for me.
or you might have a short, aka, mobo is touching the case.





working on getting tubing sponsorship


----------



## All3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> working on getting tubing sponsorship


Why lol


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> Why lol


cause tubings expensive.


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> Why lol
> 
> 
> 
> cause tubings expensive.
Click to expand...

Are you working on a miser badge? What quality tubing are you referencing?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> Are you working on a miser badge? What quality tubing are you referencing?


Not a Miser if they agreed to it. lol I asked them to part me something for the build, It wouldn't be a sponsored build log without a sponsor lol.


----------



## All3n

It would be cool if you mixed it up a bit a got Home Depot etc. to sponsor your tubing.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> It would be cool if you mixed it up a bit a got Home Depot etc. to sponsor your tubing.


I would but they would look at me and would be like " you want to put what in your computer?" lolololol


----------



## alabrand

Hi, two questions: Would the Lamptron FC8 fit in this case and would I be able to fit two SSD's behind the motherboard tray?


----------



## MiiX

What case?


----------



## BBEG

If the R4, it has holes predrilled in the motherboard tray for two 2.5" drives to be mounted behind the motherboard tray. I'm about positive the Arc Midi has enough space, but I don't know if it has pre-made mounting holes. The FC8 takes up one 5.25" bay, so it should fit anything with at least one, or space for one, 5.25" slot.

Speaking of, I haven't decided if I should go with something like the FC8 or just use splitters and run my fans to the R4's included fan controller. GTs are really low-power, but as I don't have all of the fans I want yet I'm not locked into those and could still pick up fans that are a bit higher-draw (TY-147s, Noiseblocker Multiframes, San Ace Silents if Ehume ever sells me his, etc.). Does anyone know the power limits of the R4's stock fan controller?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> Well I have a problem.


well if it wnt 6hrs and then tipped over, id build out of the case (to rule out case short) and
verify the same out of case. two things come to mind, BIOS or PSU. do you have a spare
PSU or even a beefy PSU power cable? swap if you can.
and revise report.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alabrand*
> 
> Would the Lamptron FC8 fit in this case and would I be able to fit two SSD's behind the motherboard tray?


yes, the controller will fit and yes 2 SSDs can fit with some modifications to the tray.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> If the R4, it has holes predrilled in the motherboard tray for two 2.5" drives to be mounted behind the motherboard tray. I'm about positive the Arc Midi has enough space, but I don't know if it has pre-made mounting holes. The FC8 takes up one 5.25" bay, so it should fit anything with at least one, or space for one, 5.25" slot.
> Speaking of, I haven't decided if I should go with something like the FC8 or just use splitters and run my fans to the R4's included fan controller.


i dont think the arc is updated to the R4 motherboard tray, yet. i believe the R4 has a tray
relief for the SSD install and the arc does not, until they retool for the production of newer
arc midi cases.

as for fans, leave the fan controler out and use voltage reducers from a molex or SATA
power tap. some fans can take a controller and some make 'em howl and click. under volt
or get a proper fan for that location. most forget to "adjust" and leave 'em WOT or too low
and have issues and forget to throttle up the fans.

airdeano


----------



## BBEG

More thinking 'out loud':

With the Akasa splitter I can run up to 5 PWM fans from the mobo header, powering them via PSU. The only two PWM options I have in mind are Noiseblocker Multiframe M12-PS's and Thermalright TY-147's. My non-PWM list is also pretty short: Gentle Typhoons, or San Ace Silents (9S1212L4011) if Ehume ever decides to sell me his. Both of those can be run at or less than 1W each and can be easily managed by the R4's included controller. The Thermalright fan is the most taxing to the controllers at 1.5W, but I'd only be using 3 (one per channel), easily managed by the R4's controller.

Now then, here's my dilema. _Right now_ I'm on air, but as soon as I nix the X-mas debt I'll be going to water. The TY-147's will clearly be the best air coolers, and I would definitely mod them or the front of the R4 to fit two 147s. However, as they use 120mm mount holes, I pretty much _can't_ use them for radiators; they could fit a single 120 rad and that's it. The Gentle Typhoons and San Aces are the next best for static pressure and will fit both the case and any normal 120 rads without modification. The M12-PS's are PWM, have somewhat-better-than-standard static pressure and thus can be used both for air cooling and watercooling lower FPI rads like I'm getting, but they won't be as good as the TY-147's for air cooling or as good as fan controlled GTs and San Aces for watercooling.

*Watercooling plan is Swiftech Apogee Drive II, EK or Swiftech full cover GPU block, Swiftech MCR220-QP Res up front (12 fpi), XSPC EX240 up top (9-10 fpi), and possibly a single low-fpi 120 or 140 rad on the bottom. The third single rad may or may not be necessary, depending on how comfortable I feel with temperatures at my preferred noise levels. 4 or 5 fans needed for this setup.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> *Watercooling plan is Swiftech Apogee Drive II, EK or Swiftech full cover GPU block, Swiftech MCR220-QP Res up front (12 fpi), XSPC EX240 up top (9-10 fpi), and possibly a single low-fpi 120 or 140 rad on the bottom. The third single rad may or may not be necessary, depending on how comfortable I feel with temperatures at my preferred noise levels. 4 or 5 fans needed for this setup.


the EX is 20+ fpi so to make it work proper, the fans speed should be 1600-2000rpm
you can slow them down to forsake a couple of degrees in temperature rise.

why not keep it simple. depending on equipment used a RX240 in the roof and SR1
or alphacool XT/UT280 up front. the floor rad is going to be an after-thought and not
contributing to much if any.

a healthy overclock on ivey/sandy bridge, sli/x-fire late model cards with a medium
overclock. should hold mid-60° in loaded temperatures, using 1200rpm or less fans.
cool, quiet and performing as well. mixing radiator types and arrangements is plain
counter-productive. keep it simple and it'll work for you, instead of the other way around.

2x 120mm fans high static
2x 140mm fans high static
push/pull not needed unless dressing to impress..

airdeano


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> why not keep it simple. depending on equipment used a RX240 in the roof and SR1
> or alphacool XT/UT280 up front. the floor rad is going to be an after-thought and not
> contributing to much if any.


my exact setup :-D

I don't have my gpu block installed or the second radiator. Working on installing the ut60 280 radiator up front.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> the EX is 20+ fpi so to make it work proper, the fans speed should be 1600-2000rpm
> you can slow them down to forsake a couple of degrees in temperature rise.


Hm, I read that the EX is a really low fpi, which is apparently wrong. I picked a slimmer rad to go up top because I'm still not sure yet about clearance for the motherboard.

I'm measuring just about 300mm up top without removing the 5.25 cage. This should allow an MCR220-QP Res to fit up there, which keeps my loop neater by integrating the res. An SR1 240 will go up front. My goal is < 30dBA system, so fans will not go above 1000rpm unless gaming or under load. The floor rad _may_ be useful, or it may not; like I said, it will depend on how well the two 240s can cool at the noise level I want (it will be the first time I'll have the chance to really push the 955).


----------



## meridius

hi all

Would like to know if anyone has tried the AF140 corsair fans over the 140mm fractal fans ? Are the af140 fans better for moving air and are these fans just as quiet or even more quiet than the fractals ?

never bought 140mm fans before always had 120mm noctuas but herd good things about the AF140. any thoughts on this

thanks


----------



## stratosrally

With 550+ pages in this forum I apologize for not reading them all the way through - but is there an estimated release date for the new Fractal Design Define XL R2 other than sometime in 2013?

As the midtower Define R4 version just won Tom's Hardware's quiet case competition :

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/lian-li-pc-b12-nanoxia-deep-silence-1-silverstone-ft-02s-usb3,3378-17.html

I'm thinking it would make an excellent home for my dual-SLI GTX 580 rig.

I like the changes that they incorporated for this new revision.


----------



## raptorxrx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> well if it wnt 6hrs and then tipped over, id build out of the case (to rule out case short) and
> verify the same out of case. two things come to mind, BIOS or PSU. do you have a spare
> PSU or even a beefy PSU power cable? swap if you can.
> and revise report.
> airdeano


I built it outside of the case-no issues at all. I'm pretty sure that the case is the problem here although I could be wrong.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> I built it outside of the case-no issues at all. I'm pretty sure that the case is the problem here although I could be wrong.


Have you powered it up using case wires but not mounted in case? Like set it on a piece of cardboard in side of case so you can hook it up as it would be installed in case.

This would rule out case wiring and/or any PSU wiring used in case but not on bench... and my guess is it's motherboard grounding somehow to case.

If the above works then try making some heavy paper (like file folder are made of) insulating sheet between motherboard and mounting plate.. might be a little tricky getting screw holes made.

Also check it's not a PCI card possibly grounding out to mounting slots in case.

Don't know what else to suggest. Airdeano covered things pretty well.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meridius*
> 
> hi all
> Would like to know if anyone has tried the AF140 corsair fans over the 140mm fractal fans ? Are the af140 fans better for moving air and are these fans just as quiet or even more quiet than the fractals ?
> never bought 140mm fans before always had 120mm noctuas but herd good things about the AF140. any thoughts on this
> thanks


I am using them. The af140's are nice, quiet, and look sharp. They move about double the air of the stock fractal fans. I have 4 of them, one on the side panel, rear exhaust and 2 up front for intakes.


----------



## MME1122

Does anyone else have a vibration/buzzing noise issue? I think it's the hard drive cage but I'm not sure. I only hear it when the hard drive is spinning. Pushing on the drive cage or the tab that holds the tray in place usually makes it stop. Also adjusting the side panel can make it stop. Does anyone have this or know of a way to fix it? I've been trying to figure this out for months. Thanks


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Does anyone else have a vibration/buzzing noise issue? I think it's the hard drive cage but I'm not sure. I only hear it when the hard drive is spinning. Pushing on the drive cage or the tab that holds the tray in place usually makes it stop. Also adjusting the side panel can make it stop. Does anyone have this or know of a way to fix it? I've been trying to figure this out for months. Thanks


might wanna try rubber washers or putting rubber under the feet.


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> might wanna try rubber washers or putting rubber under the feet.


The case feet have rubber on them, and I've tried putting washers under the drive cage. Honestly I don't think it's helped at all


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> The case feet have rubber on them, and I've tried putting washers under the drive cage. Honestly I don't think it's helped at all


hmm...


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Does anyone else have a vibration/buzzing noise issue? I think it's the hard drive cage but I'm not sure. I only hear it when the hard drive is spinning. Pushing on the drive cage or the tab that holds the tray in place usually makes it stop. Also adjusting the side panel can make it stop. Does anyone have this or know of a way to fix it? I've been trying to figure this out for months. Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MME1122*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> might wanna try rubber washers or putting rubber under the feet.
> 
> 
> 
> The case feet have rubber on them, and I've tried putting washers under the drive cage. Honestly I don't think it's helped at all
Click to expand...

You have a resonance vibration from the hdd. You can manipulate the cage, or "shim" the vibrating area on the cage, or replace the drive, or shim the drive. You said it stopped with pressure, so find the area that is affected (ie the buzzing area) and address that.


----------



## MME1122

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siggie30*
> 
> You have a resonance vibration from the hdd. You can manipulate the cage, or "shim" the vibrating area on the cage, or replace the drive, or shim the drive. You said it stopped with pressure, so find the area that is affected (ie the buzzing area) and address that.


Resonance definitely sounds right. I'll try shimming the drive cage or the drive tray and see how it goes. Thanks


----------



## meridius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I am using them. The af140's are nice, quiet, and look sharp. They move about double the air of the stock fractal fans. I have 4 of them, one on the side panel, rear exhaust and 2 up front for intakes.


Thanks for the info, are they just as quiet at that double air intake ?

thanks


----------



## hodor.

I recently changed my case from a Silverstone RV02 to a Define R4. I found this thread to be a great resource & thought I would provide some feedback for others considering the R4.

I have had the RV02 for 2 years and have been pleased with its performance. But I was ready to make a change and wanted a case that was quiet, had good airflow, limited dust and had an understated aesthetic. My main concern in moving to the R4 was the tradeoff between airflow and quiet. I have been pleasantly surprised that this has not happened.

The R4 was easier to put together & cable, mainly due to the wider clearance behind the motherboard. I made a few changes from the stock R4 configuration:

- Moved the rear 140mm R2 fan to the front & addded a Xigmatek 140 mm 1000 RPM fan to the rear (it came free with my CPU cooler)
- Replaced the +1 expansion slot with a Silverstone Aeroslot. I was going to replace the others, but the Aeroslots do not fit as snuggly
- Removed the middle hard drive cage, but kept the lower cage in order to dampen HDD vibration & hide cables
- Flipped the PSU so its fan would exhaust air when the CPU + GPU were under heavy load

Here are some measurements I took with both cases. This is not very scientific since I also changed my CPU cooler from an H50 to a Xigmatek Dark Knight II. Ambient temps were 20-21c.

GPU (Sapphire 7950 @ 1075 Core / 1375 Mem / 1149 mv Target voltage) - Heaven

RV02 = 63-64c, 1916 RPM fan speed (46%)
R4 w. case fans @ 7v = 65-67c, 1960 RPM fan speed (48%)
- raising the case fans to 12v during the test dropped temps by 2c

CPU (2500k @ 4.2Ghz / 1272 mv) - Prime95

RV02 + H50 w. 2x Kama Flow 1500 RPM fans in push/pull: 51/58/58/54c, 2x fans @ 974 RPM
R4 @ 7v + Xigmatek Dark Knight w. stock PWM fan: 47/53/55/51c, 1890 RPM fan speed
R4 @ 12v + Xigmatek Dark Knight w. stock PWM fan: 47/53/55/51c, 1834 RPM fan speed

What has pleased me the most is being able to run the case fans at 7v & not giving up much performance vs. 12v. Anecdotally, I would say that the R4 @ 12v has a slightly higher noise level than my old RV02 with its 180mm fans on 'Low,' but that the sound characteristics of the R4 are better. At 7v the R4 is much quieter.

Overall, I am very happy I made the change. At the $80 price I paid (recent Newegg US sale), this is an incredible value.


----------



## Zufushiki

Hi, anyone got some ideas how to get better looking?

i have new pump, mcp655 and maybe i get new dualbay reservoir. but if i buy dualbay reservoir, i have to change 360 rad to 240/280.


----------



## raptorxrx

I'd keep it the way it is now, it already looks pretty cool.


----------



## airdeano

i just saw an ebay seller listing the windowed side-panel for sale. this is a US sale
so it must either be releasing or available. he had 10 and they look to be white
panels.

using part number: FD-AC-WND-ARCB

hope this helps some of you fence guys on buying the arc midi without a window option.

airdeano


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Janac*
> 
> where did you buy these sleeved PSU cables?
> Very nice build.


Thank you!
I didnt buy cables, i bought some paracord and sleeved cables myself.


----------



## BBEG

Ah well. I bit on five TY-147s and an Akasa 5-way PWM splitter. I'll leave my AMD machine to air cooling and save the watercooling for Haswell-E or Broadwell.


----------



## Emmer

I own a Fractal Arc Midi and managed to break the front audio jack by tripping over a headphone cable which was plugged in. It's now very loose and won't recognise that headphones are plugged in. Anyhow, does anyone know whether I would be able to obtain a replacement front i/o panel and whether it would be relatively straightforward to replace?


----------



## All3n

In hear Fractal has good customer service, just contact them.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmer*
> 
> I own a Fractal Arc Midi and managed to break the front audio jack by tripping over a headphone cable which was plugged in. It's now very loose and won't recognise that headphones are plugged in. Anyhow, does anyone know whether I would be able to obtain a replacement front i/o panel and whether it would be relatively straightforward to replace?


Email them and they'll send you out a replacement I/O panel. It's a breeze to replace too - unplug all the cables from the motherboard, undo the 2 screws, remove the unit, screw in the new one. and finally attach all the cables again.


----------



## Emmer

Thank you, All3n and VD88. Will definitely email Fractal... a much nicer solution than buying a new bay device.


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmer*
> 
> I own a Fractal Arc Midi and managed to break the front audio jack by tripping over a headphone cable which was plugged in. It's now very loose and won't recognise that headphones are plugged in. Anyhow, does anyone know whether I would be able to obtain a replacement front i/o panel and whether it would be relatively straightforward to replace?


I got a replacement for a broken front panel. Took about a week and a half. They ended up never emailing me that they sent the package out...I wasn't even sure they accepted my claim. It just arrived on my doorstep.

Unfortunately the replacement was also broken and I'm not gonna wait anymore.

Front i/o definitely is built shoddy.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> I got a replacement for a broken front panel. Took about a week and a half. They ended up never emailing me that they sent the package out...I wasn't even sure they accepted my claim. It just arrived on my doorstep.
> Unfortunately the replacement was also broken and I'm not gonna wait anymore.
> Front i/o definitely is built shoddy.


looool

Yeah, they tend to do that, when i got my sponsorship, they said they would send me tracking info, they never did, just had a giant case show up at my door one day.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zufushiki*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, anyone got some ideas how to get better looking?
> i have new pump, mcp655 and maybe i get new dualbay reservoir. but if i buy dualbay reservoir, i have to change 360 rad to 240/280.


I would replace the current pump with res/pump combo and use thicker colorful tubing, black, white, etc.


----------



## rovert19

I got my windowed side panel for the r3 today. Was a little disappointing to find out that it did not have the sound dampening material like it does on the r4. It does look very nice tho.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rovert19*
> 
> I got my windowed side panel for the r3 today. Was a little disappointing to find out that it did not have the sound dampening material like it does on the r4. It does look very nice tho.










yeah, its a r4 thing


----------



## winniethepwn

Just talked to an acrylic guy. Getting some custom work done for the midi. Coming soon.


----------



## MadeinUganda

Anyone need a windowed side panel for their R4 or Midi? Got an email from Fractal recently with links to the long awaited side panels.
http://www.antarespro.com/7439282-item-Fractal-Design-FDACWNDDEF4ARCBL-817301010962.aspx

http://www.mnjtech.com/UI/ProductCatalog/ProductDetail.aspx?productId=9979456&surl=%2fUI%2fProductCatalog%2fProductSearch.aspx%3ft%3d0%26sk%3dfractal+design%26st%3d0%26d%3d0%26ss%3d0%26sf%3d0%26pf%3d0%26pt%3d50%26sse%3d0%26p%3d1

http://www.computerbrain.authsafe.com/product_info.php?products_id=50319

You're welcome.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadeinUganda*
> 
> Anyone need a windowed side panel for their R4 of Midi? Got an email from Fractal recently with links to the long awaited side panels.
> http://www.antarespro.com/7439282-item-Fractal-Design-FDACWNDDEF4ARCBL-817301010962.aspx
> http://www.mnjtech.com/UI/ProductCatalog/ProductDetail.aspx?productId=9979456&surl=%2fUI%2fProductCatalog%2fProductSearch.aspx%3ft%3d0%26sk%3dfractal+design%26st%3d0%26d%3d0%26ss%3d0%26sf%3d0%26pf%3d0%26pt%3d50%26sse%3d0%26p%3d1
> http://www.computerbrain.authsafe.com/product_info.php?products_id=50319
> You're welcome.


gosh, they need to hurry up with the XL panels.


----------



## MadeinUganda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> gosh, they need to hurry up with the XL panels.


More companies should just have windowed side panels instead of the windowed side panels with fan mounts. I think they just ruin the point of a windowed side panel.


----------



## lee_hacken

side window panel for Arc Midi is in stock now at J&R for $23.99

http://www.jr.com/fractal-design/pe/FRI_FDACWNDDA01/


----------



## K4IKEN

Anyone planning on putting a Kraken X60 in the R4? I'm interested to see it in there.. I'd be the guinea pig but I'm broke and have to replace my dead PSU first.


----------



## kyismaster

lol anyone wanna trade new XL for old BNIB XL?


----------



## Col5

http://www.technextday.co.uk/products/Accessories/Miscellaneous/Fractal-Design/Fractal-Design-Define-R3-System-side-panel-with-?searchtrack=ProductList&prodid=1296688

For all you guys with the slim version of the R4 in UK


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Anyone planning on putting a Kraken X60 in the R4? I'm interested to see it in there.. I'd be the guinea pig but I'm broke and have to replace my dead PSU first


looking at my midi, ive bolted a SR1 280 and BixGTX 280 in the OE 140 spots and
it will be very tight with a push or pull. if the hose-end of tanks isn't too thick then it'll
bolt in hose-end towards front. if too thick, then hose-end to the back and blank tank
not to thick to obstruct the Optibays.
next is the 50mm drop from the ceiling and MOSFET/RAM interference issue. because
the rad is shifted back into the case. new holes can be modded back to the side-panel
side to make better clearence for the mobo sinks/RAM.

airdeano


----------



## Skrillex

My R4 is coming today can't wait to start using it!


----------



## athlon 64

And i can"T wait to see you post pictures of yours build in it


----------



## BBEG

Aight. Build so far.

Case: Fractal R4 ($80 Newegg special)
CPU: Phenom II X4 955 (salvaged from Project Prebuilt, $115 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 ($145 Amazon)
GPU: Gigabyte 7950 Windforce 3 ($298 from SuperBiiz w/ FC3, Hitman, and Sleeping Dogs)
CPU Cooler: Noctua UH-12P SE2 ($55 somewhere)
Memory: 8GB Samsung MV-3V4G3D/US ($40 Newegg)
Power: Seasonic X650 Gold ($100 Newegg, special at the time)
Storage 1: Samsung 830 series 256GB SSD ($230 Newegg)
Storage 2: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB ($90 Newegg?)

The GPU and RAM are inbound. I'm trying to get a hold of at least 5x TY-147s and an Akasa 5-way PWM splitter. 2x front fans, 2x heatsink, and 1x bottom. That they look great and perform well enough on heatsinks that they should pull a good amount of air through the filters. The middle HDD cage will be removed, the bottom one will probably also be removed if I can find a 3.5 HDD + 2.5 SSD mount that fits in a 5.25 bay.

(Pics once all the things get here and I can start building.)


----------



## bludd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDNFP14*
> 
> Haha.... I knew I had posted this somewhere....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the photo:


A little late to the party but I'm interested in adding those noctua fans to my midi. I have a question on how you mounted them, the usual way fractal design has you mounting these for me is clip the fans into front panel. So when you say front fan mounts, do you mean these holes in the


http://imgur.com/qJBuf

? Also was there enough room to put the hard drive brackets back in when you mounted it?

Thanks in advance and your case looks so tidy on the cable management, I'm jealous. lol.


----------



## Behrouz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee_hacken*
> 
> side window panel for Arc Midi is in stock now at J&R for $23.99
> http://www.jr.com/fractal-design/pe/FRI_FDACWNDDA01/











I've been waiting for an eternity to get this, should be here in a few days. +rep


----------



## BBEG

For anyone interested:

The internal dimensions of the front fan shroud is about 137mm (W) x 288mm (L) x 25mm (D) before fan clips. This is enough space to fit virtually all 240 radiators except the Swiftech models with the res and with the res & pump. In case you're wondering, yes, the Fractal R2 fan is only 137mm. Unfortunately, this means it *cannot* fit 140 rads. So for those who want to keep the shroud in place to keep using the stock filter, rock on with your 240s. Just note that you'll probably have to trim the clips that hold fans in place and maybe drill a couple new holes in the shroud.

On a related note, the front filter is pretty nice, but the spiral pattern annoys me. It looks like the plastic actually sandwiches the filter material so I don't believe you can snip it out like you can the spiral pattern on the fan shroud. Does anyone know of any similarly-sized fan filters?


----------



## mtraccer

Hello, Arc midi owner here and been waiting for the windowed side panel ever since they announced it but I have never heard of these retailers before and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with these stores and I wonder why they gotten them in before Ncix or Newegg.
Any help would be much helpful and once I get mine I will be posting more pics of this amazing case!


----------



## Eseuldor

Hey gang. Recently joined the board and I want to say thanks to everyone in the Fractal Design Case Club.









While I am still waiting for a couple key pieces to my newest build to arrive I have been looking through the pages here and I must say, you guys are a treasure trove of inspiration for the possibilities this case offers me. Proves I chose right while looking at that Black Friday sales ad!! I am going to slowly personalize and mold this beast into something I can truly enjoy. And not only from a performance standpoint but also from an aesthetics standpoint.

Looking forward to seeing all the other great pics you guys and gals post.


----------



## Mackem

Hey guys. I was looking at replacing my 400R with a Fractal case as I am getting a H100i and I would like more room. Question is will the Arc Mini, Midi or R4 be beat for the hardware I have?


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all,
a friend of mine just swapped his 6850 for a 7970 (lucky bastard), so he handed me his 6850 so that i can crossfire it with my own









In my Midi I have the 3 stock 140mm fans (2 front pushing air in, 1 back pulling air out): if I have to add a 4th fan, where would you put it ?
Bottom, side or top ? Pushing in or pulling out ?

Thanks,

MaX.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I had the same problem.
> You have to bend the taps (which secure the pannel the case) just a little out.
> I can't send you a pic at the moment but you'll see which tabs I mean because they should be already scratched.
> EDIT:


Can I ask what you used to affix your Perspex on to the the inside of your case? I've recently finished a cut on the side panel of my R3 and trying to work out best way to bond the Perspex to the metal. I've got access to quite a lot of bonding materials.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi all,
> a friend of mine just swapped his 6850 for a 7970 (lucky bastard), so he handed me his 6850 so that i can crossfire it with my own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my Midi I have the 3 stock 140mm fans (2 front pushing air in, 1 back pulling air out): if I have to add a 4th fan, where would you put it ?
> Bottom, side or top ? Pushing in or pulling out ?
> Thanks,
> MaX.


I'd add one on the side panel as intake.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Hey gang. Recently joined the board and I want to say thanks to everyone in the Fractal Design Case Club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While I am still waiting for a couple key pieces to my newest build to arrive I have been looking through the pages here and I must say, you guys are a treasure trove of inspiration for the possibilities this case offers me. Proves I chose right while looking at that Black Friday sales ad!! I am going to slowly personalize and mold this beast into something I can truly enjoy. And not only from a performance standpoint but also from an aesthetics standpoint.
> Looking forward to seeing all the other great pics you guys and gals post.


Welcome! So what case did you get?


----------



## ampy60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Can I ask what you used to affix your Perspex on to the the inside of your case? I've recently finished a cut on the side panel of my R3 and trying to work out best way to bond the Perspex to the metal. I've got access to quite a lot of bonding materials.


This isn't mine but I used just strong 2 face tape. I then routered a groove in the plexi the thickness of the tape and laied the tape in It. This way when the window is installed there is 0 gap between the window and side panel. I also finished the cut edge and painted it too so it pretty much looks factory.

Don't worry about strength. When testing mounting strategies and using 4 one inch strips(1 on each corner) it was hard to get back out. So naturally I did 360 degrees for the final mount and I'm pretty sure the metal would give first.


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Welcome! So what case did you get?


I got the R4 Black Pearl


----------



## ethanlovespi

Bought a R4 Titanium Grey last week to replace my Cooler Master 690.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> Hey guys. I was looking at replacing my 400R with a Fractal case as I am getting a H100i and I would like more room. Question is will the Arc Mini, Midi or R4 be beat for the hardware I have?


either one of the mentioned can do what your 400r can't. the mini will not hold your Z68 ATX board. welcome to the club!

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi all,
> a friend of mine just swapped his 6850 for a 7970 (lucky bastard), so he handed me his 6850 so that i can crossfire it with my own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my Midi I have the 3 stock 140mm fans (2 front pushing air in, 1 back pulling air out): if I have to add a 4th fan, where would you put it ?


should go in the floor as an intake. if you are still uing HDD cage (lower) the lower front will cool the drives
the upper fan will be for CPU/MOSFET cooling. the floor fan will support the GPU area with spill over from
the front fans.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Can I ask what you used to affix your Perspex on to the the inside of your case? I've recently finished a cut on the side panel of my R3 and trying to work out best way to bond the Perspex to the metal. I've got access to quite a lot of bonding materials.


thre 3M 410M Double Coated Paper Tape.comes in various widths from .1875" (3/16) to 24".
can hold 50oz per inch applied. this can hold some heavy dookie off the floor.

airdeano


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethanlovespi*
> 
> Bought a R4 Titanium Grey last week to replace my Cooler Master 690.


Nice









But you should remove hdd cage on the top for better airflow and for esthetic also


----------



## ebduncan

Hmm's I've owned my Arc Midi for about 2 months now. I like the case, but then i saw the Corsair 900D at CES. Say good bye Arc Midi, you will be retired to Server.


----------



## ethanlovespi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you should remove hdd cage on the top for better airflow and for esthetic also


Thanks.







I will probably do that when I add another 140mm fan.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Hmm's I've owned my Arc Midi for about 2 months now. I like the case, but then i saw the Corsair 900D at CES. Say good bye Arc Midi, you will be retired to Server.


yeah $350 and not available, yet. the word is februaryish... if like last year.. it'll be yawn
and a half.

for $25 more at CaseLabs the Merlin awaits your credit card information.
more rad support, mobo support, USA made and top-notch customer service.

airdeano
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethanlovespi*
> 
> I will probably do that when I add another 140mm fan.


steal the one from the roof or the exhaust. you wont miss either in temperatures.
id swipe the exhaust and move it to the front panel. let it naturally exhaust (there
is massive ventilation in back and roof).

airdeano


----------



## Magical Eskimo

After making a cut in the side panel of my R3 I'm thinking I should put some rubber lining type stuff along the edge of the cut, can anyone reccomend something for this?


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> After making a cut in the side panel of my R3 I'm thinking I should put some rubber lining type stuff along the edge of the cut, can anyone reccomend something for this?


Search for "u channel" at mnpctech


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Search for "u channel" at mnpctech


Thats definitely the stuff! will have to get a quote for shipping to UK


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

SpecialTech sell similar stuff: http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Neoprene-Rubber-Edging-Trim-pid-9645.html


----------



## ad3ath

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-(black)-side-panel-for-define-r4 Just ordered mine, thought I'd share this I've been looking for ages for this panel.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-(black)-side-panel-for-define-r4 Just ordered mine, thought I'd share this I've been looking for ages for this panel.


£12! I cut out my own side window identical to this because I thought I'd save money, but at £12 that's a steal. Still, I'm glad I've had the experience of cutting out my own


----------



## billynomates

The bottom dust filter on my R4 vibrates quite loudly. Anyone else have this problem? It seems to be slightly loose which causes the vibration. Is there something obvious I am missing or do I need to mod it to keep it still?


----------



## jeffblute

Should be getting my Arctic R4 sometime tomorrow


----------



## All3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billynomates*
> 
> The bottom dust filter on my R4 vibrates quite loudly. Anyone else have this problem? It seems to be slightly loose which causes the vibration. Is there something obvious I am missing or do I need to mod it to keep it still?


Mine has done this once or twice, I cannot seem to replicate it now though.

It was very minor, I literally only heard it because my ear was up listening for the PSU fan.

One time it went away when I touched the finger-pull, the other time it continued so I think it is towards the front of the filter.

Now I have a fan in that front position held in with rubber screws, which I think are touching the filter enough that it cannot vibrate anymore.

I'm sure you could come up with something similar to shim the gap a bit.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> £12! I cut out my own side window identical to this because I thought I'd save money, but at £12 that's a steal. Still, I'm glad I've had the experience of cutting out my own


I will probably attempt to cut my own with my spare side panel, but £12 is brilliant for a higher quality than I could do. It would cost me more than £12 to get a dremel and disks and metal files etc lol.

Also I've been waiting absolutely ages and finally I should have one tomorrow! Ebuyer got them in and they didn't last long enough for me to even see them. Emailed Fractal who didn't even tell me other etailers who might get them lol.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> yeah $350 and not available, yet. the word is februaryish... if like last year.. it'll be yawn
> and a half.
> for $25 more at CaseLabs the Merlin awaits your credit card information.
> more rad support, mobo support, USA made and top-notch customer service.
> airdeano
> steal the one from the roof or the exhaust. you wont miss either in temperatures.
> id swipe the exhaust and move it to the front panel. let it naturally exhaust (there
> is massive ventilation in back and roof).
> airdeano


The merlin is nice, but more expensive, and doesn't have top I/O. It also supports Less radiators. The 900D supports a 480 up top push/pull, 240/360 in the front, a 480 down below, and a 240. Granted both cases support enough radiator to cool just bout any PC.

I will be using a 480 and a 240. Plenty for my needs, (crossfired 7950's and Fx 8320/8350) currently single 7950 and 8120. I have not actually gotten around to install the second card and new cpu yet. Still waiting for the water blocks for the 7950's.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> The merlin is nice, but more expensive, and doesn't have top I/O. It also supports Less radiators. The 900D supports a 480 up top push/pull, 240/360 in the front, a 480 down below, and a 240. Granted both cases support enough radiator to cool just bout any PC.
> 
> I will be using a 480 and a 240. Plenty for my needs, (crossfired 7950's and Fx 8320/8350) currently single 7950 and 8120. I have not actually gotten around to install the second card and new cpu yet. Still waiting for the water blocks for the 7950's.


the merlin is modular, expandable and can configure alot quicker than the
900D. not taking anything away from corsair george and the corsair design
team, but this smacks alot of the SM8 and the swapable design. this is what
case owners have been wanting. Caselabs has been doing this awhile, but
under stated and not mass marketed and all in aluminum with color choices,
reversable motherboard, options out the wazzzoooo.

expensive?, $25 more.. it can be configured for top i/o.. a case of this caliber
that is already being sold to the open market.

radiator support is less than 900D? what? 480top p/p same, 240/360 front p/p,
240/360/480 lower p/p kinda the same, but one difference, the top can support
dual 480 p/p laterally as well with no mobo restriction..

you can have the 900D later, but i'll already have the SM8 Merlin..

airdeano


----------



## lundrog

Who is buying a XL R2/

I just spoke to my personal connection at Fratical, and he said 4 weeks until we should see it on newegg, etc.


----------



## Behrouz

Anyone have luck ordering the windowed side panel? My order was placed with J&R but they told me they dont actually have it in stock, and aren't sure when it will be shipped.


----------



## blue-cat

Saw currys are stocking the R4 in white for about £90. If I can find a Phanteks for less than £50 I'll use £90 Currys vouchers and then as for the windowed side panel for my birthday







Can'ty wait to join the club


----------



## kyismaster

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> Who is buying a XL R2/
> 
> I just spoke to my personal connection at Fratical, and he said 4 weeks until we should see it on newegg, etc.


i wanted to trade my bnib xl for a xl r2 lol

I kinda want a core 1000 but i was already sponsored 2cases straight from the VP.

The XL is nice but so nice it almost hurts me to have to mod it lol


----------



## ad3ath

Currently after delivery today. I need to choose some LEDs I was thinking Bitfenix braided 2M LED chain in white or blue. Also want to put something black on the battery to cover it up maybe electrical tape. May consider a new PSU and sound card to tidy it up.

The side panel is really good quality, fits better than the original and they also added sound deadening to it like in the R4.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Can I ask what you used to affix your Perspex on to the the inside of your case? I've recently finished a cut on the side panel of my R3 and trying to work out best way to bond the Perspex to the metal. I've got access to quite a lot of bonding materials.


I am using transparent silicone glue.
Just the most cheapest one from the hardware store.
I've been applying it with a silicone syringe just around the edges of the window, maybe a little to much but it´s like invisible from the outside. It holds the window in place like it will never fall out









I know many guys did use tape for mounting the windows but I´m moving my pc quiet often so I wanted it to last.
I hope that I could help you with my (late) answer.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Currently after delivery today. I need to choose some LEDs I was thinking Bitfenix braided 2M LED chain in white or blue. Also want to put something black on the battery to cover it up maybe electrical tape. May consider a new PSU and sound card to tidy it up.
> 
> The side panel is really good quality, fits better than the original and they also added sound deadening to it like in the R4.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Gorgeous looking build ad3ath!


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Gorgeous looking build ad3ath!


Thank you, any suggestions??

This is my GPU stand I want something better though:


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Thank you, any suggestions??
> 
> This is my GPU stand I want something better though:


That made me spill my tea.

I use a Power Jack for mine but it's not very attractive.

You could use some fishing line?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Thank you, any suggestions??
> 
> This is my GPU stand I want something better though:


EDIT: o fail









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> That made me spill my tea.
> 
> I use a Power Jack for mine but it's not very attractive.
> 
> You could use some fishing line?


I just got so freaking feared...


----------



## catbuster

any speculations on r5 release date? got core 1k for now and atlast some r4 are in stock to order at my country


----------



## carmas

I would expect them to refresh the other cases before releasing the r5. But that's just my


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> any speculations on r5 release date?


R4 came out recently you know.


----------



## catbuster

mmm i read somewhere it is around june lolz xD maybe i just get r4 >_>


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I doubt they'll release the R5 yet. The R3 was released in 2010 and then the R4 this year so I reckon in 2014 they'll release it.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Hi all,
> a friend of mine just swapped his 6850 for a 7970 (lucky bastard), so he handed me his 6850 so that i can crossfire it with my own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In my Midi I have the 3 stock 140mm fans (2 front pushing air in, 1 back pulling air out): if I have to add a 4th fan, where would you put it ?
> Bottom, side or top ? Pushing in or pulling out ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I'd add one on the side panel as intake.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> should go in the floor as an intake. if you are still uing HDD cage (lower) the lower front will cool the drives
> the upper fan will be for CPU/MOSFET cooling. the floor fan will support the GPU area with spill over from
> the front fans.


Thanks for your (opposite) advices









I've just realized I have two minor issues. First, on the bottom I cannot (easily) use a 140mm because my PSU (Corsair HX 750) is a bit too long.
I can sneak one in place between PSU and HD cage, but not in the correct position: the holes do not align, annoying.

Second, on the side I don't have a lot of space due to the height of my CPU cooler (Thermalright Macho): the stock fractal fan (25mm width) is OK, but not a lot of space is left hence I'd guess 180mm Silverstone AP181 won't fit (32mm width, seems just enoguh, not sure I want to take the risk).

So I'm left with a 120mm on the bottom or a 140mm on the side: as my issue is essentially he GPU temp, I would tend to go for the 140mm on the side. OK ?

Also:

1. Worth to put an additional 140mm on the top ? Without it I would have 3 fans pushing air in and only 1 pulling it out ... not sure is reasonable.

2. Suggestions for a good 140mm (PWN not really needed).

MaX.


----------



## All3n

NCIX Carries two models of Fractal fans. Quiet and reasonably priced.

The 3 to 1 fan ratio is fine.


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Also:
> 
> 1. Worth to put an additional 140mm on the top ? Without it I would have 3 fans pushing air in and only 1 pulling it out ... not sure is reasonable.
> 
> 2. Suggestions for a good 140mm (PWN not really needed).
> 
> MaX.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186080

In the current rig I am using Arctic F14's while I wait for the rest of the components for my new project, I have grown very partial to these fans. They move a lot of air and in my opinion are a solid value. At 100% speed I can barely hear them unless I am actively listening. At 80% I cannot hear them at all.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181028&Tpk=af140

I have heard the AF140's are extremely awesome fans as well, but I have no experience with those (just yet). Only experience with the SP120's so far which are awesome. But I plan on using a full compliment of the AF140's for my rig.

Both of those fans sit at 25mm btw.


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> That made me spill my tea.
> 
> I use a Power Jack for mine but it's not very attractive.
> 
> You could use some fishing line?


Hahaha xD I think I will get a power jack seems to be my only option, or I could paint that vitamin jar black!









I tried with cable ties but unfortunately it bends the card in a weird way, like pulls the heatsink up but the card still says a bit warped. Power jack it is!

edit: gorgeous rig matey!


----------



## SkillzKillz

Anyone have trouble with the front audio ports?

I believe my mic-in port in the front is faulty. When I plug a microphone in a device is detected, then it disappears, then it's detected again. This repeats for about 5 seconds until the device is no longer detected. I noticed the audio port seems loose and it does not make contact with the 3.5mm jack.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I am using transparent silicone glue.
> Just the most cheapest one from the hardware store.
> I've been applying it with a silicone syringe just around the edges of the window, maybe a little to much but it´s like invisible from the outside. It holds the window in place like it will never fall out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know many guys did use tape for mounting the windows but I´m moving my pc quiet often so I wanted it to last.
> I hope that I could help you with my (late) answer


Thanks for answering, I've not done it yet but two people have recommended glue so hopefully soon I'll be able to dig out my sheet of plexi from my shed and get it cut and stuck on.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> I've not done it yet but two people have recommended glue so hopefully soon I'll be able to dig out my sheet of plexi from my shed and get it cut and stuck on.


Glue is too messy







Just use some *Scotch 4010* double -sided mounting tape.
Cant's go wrong with that stuff for


----------



## Airrick10

Well I got the Kraken X60 yesterday and unfortunately you can only do push on the Arc Midi.







I'll post pics later on.


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Well I got the Kraken X60 yesterday and unfortunately you can only do push on the Arc Midi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post pics later on.










I really need to see these pics*!* I just can't understand how this can be









Wait-a-minute*!* I was thinking about the Kraken X40








However, I'm still curious about your situation.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drBlahMan*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really need to see these pics*!* I just can't understand how this can be


I'm at work right now but I'll post some pics up this weekend. But yeah...I was saying the same thing! That radiator is huge and It barely fit. The edge of the top drive cage that is curled, was getting in the way! Even if you remove the top drive cage, the back I/O area will not allow for push/pull.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I'm at work right now but I'll post some pics up this weekend. But yeah...I was saying the same thing! That radiator is huge and It barely fit. The edge of the top drive cage that is curled, was getting in the way! Even if you remove the top drive cage, the back I/O are will not allow for push/pull.


perhaps remove the front 3.5" drive bays and do push pull in the front?


----------



## Drake.L

Hey guys, I just finished putting my first watercooling loop in my R3 and thought I would share it with you guys so you can get an idea of it if you were planning to do the same as I but was hesistant for some reason.



It's actually my sig rig below if you guys are interested in the parts.


----------



## ad3ath

Wow, TIDY! Is that a drain valve on the GPU? Smart idea. Is it silent too? That rad is HUGE.


----------



## Drake.L

Yup that's a drain valve, it's very convenient. It's pretty silent, the only sound I hear is a small buzzing from the pump. I set the fans on the lowest setting on my fan controller and they are pretty much inaudible, but they still manage to keep the parts cooled. My vid card maxes furmark at 42C. My CPU also maxes at ~42C on prime95.


----------



## lundrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Hey guys, I just finished putting my first watercooling loop in my R3 and thought I would share it with you guys so you can get an idea of it if you were planning to do the same as I but was hesistant for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually my sig rig below if you guys are interested in the parts.


nice, but where are your hard drives?


----------



## lundrog

My latest config, new push pull fans, and case fans. Plus cleaned up my ssd drives.


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> nice, but where are your hard drives?


I only have an SSD, so I have that mounted where the back side panel is, on the optical drive cage. I use an external desktop drive for storage.

Also, you have a ton of SSDs! Holy hell! How is the heat in there with 2 680s?


----------



## kim jong so ill

Took out the rest of my drive cage and installed this in my 5.25" bay to help clean up my rig. Was gonna mount my ssd's to the back of the tray, but this just seemed easier to deal with.


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> My latest config, new push pull fans, and case fans. Plus cleaned up my ssd drives.


WOW you don't have enough ssd


----------



## jeffblute

So I ended up weighing this this after it was all filled, its about 62 pounds of terror


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Took out the rest of my drive cage and installed this in my 5.25" bay to help clean up my rig. Was gonna mount my ssd's to the back of the tray, but this just seemed easier to deal with.


Very nice and clean rig there.


----------



## lundrog

CPU 46 C . motherboard, 40c while playing BF3


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Hey guys, I just finished putting my first watercooling loop in my R3 and thought I would share it with you guys so you can get an idea of it if you were planning to do the same as I but was hesistant for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> It's actually my sig rig below if you guys are interested in the parts.


I... I rarely ever quote pics. But this one I must quote. *Dat rad.*









Now I'm _strongly_ reconsidering rad placement. I was originally thinking the 60mm thick 240 Alphacool up front and the 30mm 240 up top, maybe a slim 120mm on the bottom. Now I'm thinking I'll just steal your setup and add a filter on the rear fan. Could you describe your VGA block setup a bit more? That drain port is an awesome idea.


----------



## lundrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> WOW you don't have enough ssd


I know right.

Thinking of one of these to put drives in....

ToughArmor MB996SP-6SB 6x2.5" SATA HDD Hot Swap Mobile Rack at Amazon


----------



## lundrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Took out the rest of my drive cage and installed this in my 5.25" bay to help clean up my rig. Was gonna mount my ssd's to the back of the tray, but this just seemed easier to deal with.


I like that idea, see my last post.

What direction do you have the top fans blowing? in or out?


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I... I rarely ever quote pics. But this one I must quote. *Dat rad.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm _strongly_ reconsidering rad placement. I was originally thinking the 60mm thick 240 Alphacool up front and the 30mm 240 up top, maybe a slim 120mm on the bottom. Now I'm thinking I'll just steal your setup and add a filter on the rear fan. Could you describe your VGA block setup a bit more? That drain port is an awesome idea.


I first have to warn you though, my front rad is not mounted at all. The spacing in the two front fans does not align up with the radiator. The bottom fan will align with the vent but the top fan won't.

As for the VGA block set up. It's a XSPC Razor GTX 680 block. I used a male/male low profile fitting.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10372/ex-tub-619/Bitspower_Mini_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Low_Profile_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C42.html?id=jDSkgjW4&mv_pc=156

Sorry for the long link, i do not know how to edit it into the sentence. I use this fitting on the bottom G 1/4 port. I then connect a mini valve to the M/M fitting,

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14595/ex-tub-1034/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-MVV-BK.html?id=jDSkgjW4&mv_pc=155

Through that valve, you can open and close, allowing to drain the loop. You can buy an extra barb/compression fitting and hook it up to some tubing to drain it into whatever you use.

Also, the front rad I use is 80mm thick.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Took out the rest of my drive cage and installed this in my 5.25" bay to help clean up my rig. Was gonna mount my ssd's to the back of the tray, but this just seemed easier to deal with.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it. A good idea and looks pretty cool. Nice looking case too. How are those speakers? Have you had them for a while?


----------



## CarFreak302

Alright guys, I got an R4 for free from the Community Choice Awards, go me! Anyway, I am heavily considering water cooling this case. My loop plan is to have a 240 up top and a 120 on the bottom. I am wondering if it is worth it to add a second 120 to the back of the case as well. Is jumping up to 280/140mm rads worth it? Will the bigger rads give me clearance issues? I am also a little torn on fan choice. I think I am going to go with Noctua's, but if you guys know of any fans that are better I will look into them as well.
Overall, I really like this case. The first thing that struck me over my old Lian-Li was how quiet it is, unless my GPU is under load there is almost no sound. And my temps are actually a few degrees cooler with the stock fan config, I expect it to get better as I fill the remaining fan slots. And maybe it's coming from a very compact case, but working on this case was so easy. Also my first case with robber grommets for cable routing, really like that. And the extra space behind the mobo was greatly appreciated. I kinda miss the aluminum of my Lian-Li, but I'll get over it as this case is pretty darn good...especially for free


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarFreak302*
> 
> Alright guys, I got an R4 for free from the Community Choice Awards, go me! Anyway, I am heavily considering water cooling this case. My loop plan is to have a 240 up top and a 120 on the bottom. I am wondering if it is worth it to add a second 120 to the back of the case as well. Is jumping up to 280/140mm rads worth it? Will the bigger rads give me clearance issues?


is this a CPU or CPU/GPU loop?

i wouldnt waste the time/money on the single rad/fan solution.

if its a CPU loop only, a simple 30mm roof rad and sub 1200rpm fans. keep the fins per
inch loose (below 15fpi) for a mild overclock scenario. looking for higher clocks, use a thicker
45-55mm thick rad. monster clocks 60-80mm. and still using the same fans.

CPU/GPU loop: depending on overclock desired on both.
small CPU/GPU OC dual 240 (45mm) would be fine or 240 roof 280 in front. using the 280
front will allow a lil more heat for a faster clock. but be careful on the rad type. this will usually
dictate fans to use or settle on higher temps.

airdeano


----------



## beldecca

I was curious if an Arc Mini owner could tell me if this kit would fit?

XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ EX280 Radiator/D5 Pump/Res
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=34959

I'm thinking it should since the new Kraken x60 says it should fit. Was hoping to use this one so I can include a 7950 block as well. Thanks!

Basically, can I fit an XSPC EX280 in the top of an Arc Mini?


----------



## CarFreak302

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> is this a CPU or CPU/GPU loop?
> 
> i wouldnt waste the time/money on the single rad/fan solution.
> 
> if its a CPU loop only, a simple 30mm roof rad and sub 1200rpm fans. keep the fins per
> inch loose (below 15fpi) for a mild overclock scenario. looking for higher clocks, use a thicker
> 45-55mm thick rad. monster clocks 60-80mm. and still using the same fans.
> 
> CPU/GPU loop: depending on overclock desired on both.
> small CPU/GPU OC dual 240 (45mm) would be fine or 240 roof 280 in front. using the 280
> front will allow a lil more heat for a faster clock. but be careful on the rad type. this will usually
> dictate fans to use or settle on higher temps.
> 
> airdeano


CPU loop for sure, I'd like to add the GPU in as well, but I most likely won't do that till I get my next GPU or I find a really good deal on a 580 block. Looks like I'll stick with a single 240 up top for now, thanks for the help!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beldecca*
> 
> I was curious if an Arc Mini owner could tell me if this kit would fit?
> 
> XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ EX280 Radiator/D5 Pump/Res
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_202_972&products_id=34959
> 
> I'm thinking it should since the new Kraken x60 says it should fit. Was hoping to use this one so I can include a 7950 block as well. Thanks!


Well on my *ARC MIDI*, The Kraken fits but you can only do push because the upper drive cage gets in the way. If you remove the top drive cage, there is a slight chance you might be able to do push/pull just as long as the ram and ram clips don't get in the way. Here is a pic of my Kraken on my Arc MIDI


----------



## nubbinator

I've been slowly modding my Arc Midi. My last mod was a side panel window, now I'm modding the front panel. I made a replacement panel for where the mesh/honeycomb is, but I'm having a hard time deciding how to cut it for the fans. Here's what it looks like right now (sorry for bad phone pics). Obviously it's not painted yet since I haven't finished cutting it.





Now the black lines on the back side are where the fan lines up with the front. As you can see, it's not perfectly centered. If I cut perfect holes for the fans, the bottom of the sheet will have to be cut pretty close to the bottom, which will be a little tricky to not wreck the sheet. I'm not keen on wrecking it since it was a pain to fab with a nibbler. I'm torn on what would look best. Do I cut out holes, drill holes, cut slits, or do something else I hadn't thought of? Any suggestions would be great.


----------



## beldecca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Well on my *ARC MIDI*, The Kraken fits but you can only do push because the upper drive cage gets in the way. If you remove the top drive cage, there is a slight chance you might be able to do push/pull just as long as the ram and ram clips don't get in the way. Here is a pic of my Kraken on my Arc MIDI


Thanks for the feedback and the pic - that helps. Although I don't think I'll be doing push / pull as what I'm looking more for anything is quietness. Don't plan on pushing either CPU or GPU too much.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarFreak302*
> 
> CPU loop for sure, I'd like to add the GPU in as well, but I most likely won't do that till I get my next GPU or I find a really good deal on a 580 block. Looks like I'll stick with a single 240 up top for now, thanks for the help!


a single alphacool xt/ut 240, XSPC RX240, hardware labs SR1 240, or the EK xt240
would be the ones to look for. under volted noctuas or SP120, GT14, would be quiet
and peform well..

what 580 do you have? watercool has a good one with the heatkiller.



if it is a reference card youll wanna find out if your GPU has the IHS or non IHS. makes a difference.

airdeano


----------



## Transmaniacon

I see the Arc Midi is discontinued on newegg, does this mean a new model is coming out? Does anyone have any information on the Arc Midis future?


----------



## lowbudgethooker

I have alike new define r4 in black with a window that I am looking to trade for a arc mini if anyone wants.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> I see the Arc Midi is discontinued on newegg, does this mean a new model is coming out? Does anyone have any information on the Arc Midis future?


for lack of a better solution, NE uses discontinued rather that out of stock.
the Arc Midi has not reached End of Life (EOL). other suppliers are still
receiving inventory. they just ran out of inventory @ $50 shipped. prolly
to make room for the R4 venture. ive been watching the Arc Mini and it
is price steady for the past 3months
no released statement as of yet on any "upgraded" features of the Arc Midi
if any were done. removable HDD cages (R4), sold with window option,
or color choices.

airdeano


----------



## CarFreak302

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> a single alphacool xt/ut 240, XSPC RX240, hardware labs SR1 240, or the EK xt240
> would be the ones to look for. under volted noctuas or SP120, GT14, would be quiet
> and peform well..
> 
> what 580 do you have? watercool has a good one with the heatkiller.
> 
> 
> 
> if it is a reference card youll wanna find out if your GPU has the IHS or non IHS. makes a difference.
> 
> airdeano


I have never taken my heatsink off my card to know if it has an IHS or not. And I was looking at the Alphacool XT. To save space I was considering the Apogee Drive II as the CPU block and pump. Is that a good idea or should I get them separately? I like the idea of saved space more than anything else.


----------



## vangsfreaken

i won't bother reading through 113 pages for an answer... am i right that the node 304 won't fit a 7950 and an ax 860?


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> for lack of a better solution, NE uses discontinued rather that out of stock.
> the Arc Midi has not reached End of Life (EOL). other suppliers are still
> receiving inventory. they just ran out of inventory @ $50 shipped. prolly
> to make room for the R4 venture. ive been watching the Arc Mini and it
> is price steady for the past 3months
> no released statement as of yet on any "upgraded" features of the Arc Midi
> if any were done. removable HDD cages (R4), sold with window option,
> or color choices.
> 
> airdeano


Thanks for the info! I may wait and see when it comes back in stock, and the midi window on fractals site is sharp.


----------



## Rucka315

Can i join?


----------



## stl drifter

Is there a windowed side panel for the R3 out yet?


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stl drifter*
> 
> Is there a windowed side panel for the R3 out yet?


A simple google search shows that it is discontinued.

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=96


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rucka315*
> 
> Can i join?


Show pics of the inside!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beldecca*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback and the pic - that helps. Although I don't think I'll be doing push / pull as what I'm looking more for anything is quietness. Don't plan on pushing either CPU or GPU too much.


No problem! Glad I could help!


----------



## rovert19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stl drifter*
> 
> Is there a windowed side panel for the R3 out yet?


They're available through NCIX.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarFreak302*
> 
> I have never taken my heatsink off my card to know if it has an IHS or not.
> And I was looking at the Alphacool XT. To save space I was considering the Apogee Drive II as the CPU block and pump.
> Is that a good idea or should I get them separately? I like the idea of saved space more than anything else.


im not a fan of the ADII, seen too many neys and not enough yeas. you got a Midi and alot of room. when i get my mini
usable, im dressing the midi with some rads.. and it'll fit with an eye appeal. it has been donehere in the case thread.
the 45 is a fine rad, but either use a bayres/pump or seperates.

airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Thanks for the info! I may wait and see when it comes back in stock, and the midi window on fractals site is sharp.


yeah, the window is sharp. i made my own (couldn't wait and wanted my spin) prototype



once i get the cooling bundled, i'll adjust the opening for best view. ive got six side panels.

airdeano


----------



## kyismaster

Arrrrrrrrrrrg soooooo muuuch choices.


----------



## iconsam

Hi guys, I just bought myself a r4. But I realise the power led is not working. Do you guys know size led is being used in the r4 as I want to replace it.


----------



## catbuster

so many sexys r4's builds all around








i just one so badly


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iconsam*
> 
> Hi guys, I just bought myself a r4. But I realise the power led is not working. Do you guys know size led is being used in the r4 as I want to replace it.


Did you double check the header connection to make sure it's + to + and - to -?


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iconsam*
> 
> Hi guys, I just bought myself a r4. But I realise the power led is not working. Do you guys know size led is being used in the r4 as I want to replace it.


i think its a standard 5mm


----------



## Drake.L

Just wanted to post a small update to my case. I had an extra strip of IKEA Dioder lying around so I decided to throw it in my case.


----------



## iconsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Did you double check the header connection to make sure it's + to + and - to -?


Yup I double check it. could not turned it on.


----------



## iconsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i think its a standard 5mm


alright shall go get me some 5mm led. Thanks btw


----------



## All3n

I'm pretty sure I put a 3mm LED in my R4, so you might want to double check or get one of each size.

I got both sizes because I did my mouse at the same time which required both sizes.


----------



## monoLab

Cleaned up and updated:




Does tubing generally get discolored like that, or is there some biological growth goin on that is contributing to the discoloring?


----------



## JRuxGaming

I have an R4 coming in this week.


----------



## stl drifter

Thanks alot!!


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monoLab*
> 
> Cleaned up and updated:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm... something seems to be missing. I can't put my finger on it, but it has something to do with gaming.


----------



## monoLab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> Hmm... something seems to be missing. I can't put my finger on it, but it has something to do with gaming.


No it's there. It's just underpowered and integrated and unable to really power any sort of gaming experience.









I am actually in the process of saving up for one, can't decide between nvidia and ATI -- but I'm really wanting to play around with GPGPU stuff so I'll probably go nvidia unless ATI/AMDs implementation takes a hold by then (which I doubt).


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monoLab*
> 
> Cleaned up and updated:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does tubing generally get discolored like that, or is there some biological growth goin on that is contributing to the discoloring?


Did you use a kill coil or pt_nuke? It could also be plasticizer.


----------



## monoLab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> Did you use a kill coil or pt_nuke? It could also be plasticizer.


Yea I've got a kill coil in there and some biocide. What is plasticizer?


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monoLab*
> 
> Yea I've got a kill coil in there and some biocide. What is plasticizer?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery


----------



## kesawi

My R3 prior to cleaning up the cables. Specs in my sig


----------



## monoLab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery


ah ok. Thank you.

It's whatever tubing comes with the XSPC RASA kit so I dunno if it's plasticizer free or not -- doubt it because it was pretty flexible. Water is crystal clear in the reservoir so I'm not too worried about it. No case window or anything...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monoLab*
> 
> Cleaned up and updated:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does tubing generally get discolored like that, or is there some biological growth goin on that is contributing to the discoloring?


its your tubing, I suggest changing it lol.

it turns yellow / white and start to chalk up white inside of the tubing and may lead to possible clogs in the future.

i suggest getting duralene tubing,:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html


----------



## monoLab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> its your tubing, I suggest changing it lol.
> 
> it turns yellow / white and start to chalk up white inside of the tubing and may lead to possible clogs in the future.
> 
> i suggest getting duralene tubing, its about 69 cents per foot, at sidewinder/ petras pc shop, and all you'll need is 5 ft


thank you -- was bout to ask what you recommend.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monoLab*
> 
> thank you -- was bout to ask what you recommend.


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html


----------



## BBEG

Teaser for the build log. I'm learning some frustrating lessons right now and ended needing to order more SATA cables because the ones I had were meant for my previous case and previous placement of drives. I also learned that you can't put a newer slim SSD or slim 2.5" HDD in the 2.5" slot of the Icy Dock; the lever arm that pushes the drive out when you eject it slides along the top of the drive and it won't come out unless you uninstall the dock and carefully pry it out. And I need a couple more 3-pin y splitters for fans.

Fun times.


----------



## kyismaster

i see a R4


----------



## kim jong so ill

Sorry for the late responses. I was in Vegas the last couple days








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Very nice and clean rig there.


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> I like that idea, see my last post.
> 
> What direction do you have the top fans blowing? in or out?


I have the top fans as exhaust. And yes, I can see you benefiting from something like this







. But you will need straight to straight sata cables. I was only able to hook up 2 drives so far (top 2 slots) because there isn't enough spacing between the ports for angled connectors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> I like it. A good idea and looks pretty cool. Nice looking case too. How are those speakers? Have you had them for a while?


Thanks! I actually have 2 sets of these speakers. I bought my first set on Craigslist for about $70 used, and then bought a brand new set shortly after within the last year. Very good speakers for the price imo. Check the reviews on Amazon


----------



## amin7ty




----------



## tonyjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *monoLab*
> 
> Cleaned up and updated:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does tubing generally get discolored like that, or is there some biological growth goin on that is contributing to the discoloring?


very clean build there!! yeah should the tubing be transparent?


----------



## [email protected]

*Hello everyone!* I'm new to OCN, could I please join your club?


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Hello everyone!* I'm new to OCN, could I please join your club?


Welcome to OCN! Impressive build and awesome photography, props to you sir


----------



## K4IKEN

Awesome pictures mane!







How do you like those nzxt fans?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Hello everyone!* I'm new to OCN, could I please join your club?






Awesome rig and photographs







Only thing bothering me is the cable tie around the fan attached to the vertical pci slot. Cracking idea but it needs to be tweaked and made to look as good as the rest of your rig. Maybe you could butcher an old pci card so you can use the bracket to mount it.


----------



## [email protected]

Thank you guys!

I'd have to say I'm happy with the fans. They move a decent amount of air for how quiet they are.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Maybe you could butcher an old pci card so you can use the bracket to mount it.


I was thinking the same thing!.....I'll get working on it this week....if I can figure out how to do it...


----------



## ebduncan

I performed a small mod to my arc midi today. Was cleaning the air filters, and decided I wanted to remove the restrictive hold down for the air filter. So I cut the filter supports out and made a new low profile one out of a wire hanger. I was to lazy to paint it black, wanted to get back to playing games.

note you have to have something there to hold the filter back. Otherwise it will drag against the fan, and make a annoying noise. I know from experience, now you see my new filter hold down method, works like a charm


----------



## ekg84

couple new shots with a side panel on


----------



## All3n

Nice


----------



## BBEG

I absolutely love the idea of using a pci bracket to mount a side fan. I will be using that one...

[email protected], could you take a pic of the rear of your psu? I'm having trouble getting that area as clean and tidy as I'd like.


----------



## Michalius

Anyone have any info/pics on the Arc XL?


----------



## edelfurioso

Hello everyone! I'm new to OCN, could I please join your club?
i have a r4 stock but im trying to get a all clear side panel....
can some help me with that.
thanks...!!!


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Hello everyone!* I'm new to OCN, could I please join your club?


Definitely stealing the fan on the pci slot idea! what a great way to get a little more airflow over my gpu now that i strapped an H60 on it!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I absolutely love the idea of using a pci bracket to mount a side fan. I will be using that one...
> 
> [email protected], could you take a pic of the rear of your psu? I'm having trouble getting that area as clean and tidy as I'd like.


The back of the case?.....or the PSU cables?


----------



## BBEG

Ah sorry, semi-distracted at work and trying to post on my phone is not good for clear communication.









What I was trying to ask was if you could take a picture of the back of your PSU where everything plugs in. With my PSU (Seasonic X650), the cables leave about 3/4" of cable before the heatshrink, and then onto Seasonic's impressively thick sleeving. It's hard to bend in a way to neatly tuck the cables away and hide them all behind the motherboard. It looks like you have only two things plugged into your PSU...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Ah sorry, semi-distracted at work and trying to post on my phone is not good for clear communication.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I was trying to ask was if you could take a picture of the back of your PSU where everything plugs in. With my PSU (Seasonic X650), the cables leave about 3/4" of cable before the heatshrink, and then onto Seasonic's impressively thick sleeving. It's hard to bend in a way to neatly tuck the cables away and hide them all behind the motherboard. It looks like you have only two things plugged into your PSU...


It's a Coolermaster Silent Pro Gold 1000w.
It's semi-modular....I have 1x molex (fans) and 1x HDD power (SSD's/HDD) plugged in.

The main bundle of cables (24-pin, 2x 8-pin mobo, 2x 8+6-pin vga) are just behind those cables......and run at a hard angle behind the motherboard tray.

I can post a pic tomorrow if you would like


----------



## Eseuldor

Finally got the rest of my stuff this past weekend. Installed everything to make sure all is running well.

Now to clean it up a bit. This coming weekend I will do that I guess.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> It's a Coolermaster Silent Pro Gold 1000w.
> It's semi-modular....I have 1x molex (fans) and 1x HDD power (SSD's/HDD) plugged in.
> 
> The main bundle of cables (24-pin, 2x 8-pin mobo, 2x 8+6-pin vga) are just behind those cables......and run at a hard angle behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> I can post a pic tomorrow if you would like


Ah, I see. I'd still like to see a pic to see if I can draw any inspiration, but I suspect the only way to get the SeaSonic cables under control is to re-sleeve them so the cables can bend sooner after termination. (There is just about 1.5" between the plug and the end of the heat shrink.) I wonder if any of our forum artisans have some time on their hands.


----------



## Michalius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Ah, I see. I'd still like to see a pic to see if I can draw any inspiration, but I suspect the only way to get the SeaSonic cables under control is to re-sleeve them so the cables can bend sooner after termination. (There is just about 1.5" between the plug and the end of the heat shrink.) I wonder if any of our forum artisans have some time on their hands.


I know exactly what you mean. This is precisely the reason why I started to buy the AX PSUs instead. Same PSU, plus the added benefit of $80 unisleeved cables.


----------



## BBEG

Just discovered modDIY and their custom sleeved modular PSU cables. They can do custom lengths and configs as well it looks like; this is probably a great option for someone like me with no experience making cables, sleeving, or any of that jazz and with no equipment to do so. I think it's time to take some measurements and get me a quote...

Oh, just saw this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> i see a R4












Right now... it's one hell of a mess. Lack of SATA cables means I've gotta wait on those (I'll be looking on moDIY for sleeved SATA's too, now that I found them). My SSD is resting on the GPU power cables and is held in place by the PSU SATA cable also connected to the Icy Dock. Both side panels are off, so I don't even wanna mention what the area behind the mobo tray looks like...

All in good time. All in good time.


----------



## Techn0

Hey guys, here's my front panel mod...


----------



## BBEG

Cardboard huh? How's it sound with the fans running?


----------



## Techn0

it's just for testing, I will put plexi or something..its quiet


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> it's just for testing, I will put plexi or something..its quiet


Just slap some 3M Di-Noc carbon fiber vinyl on that cardboard lol!


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Just slap some 3M Di-Noc carbon fiber vinyl on that cardboard lol!


I guess I'm kind of weird, but I always hate that stuff. nine times out of ten, it ends up looking incredibly tacky to me.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> I guess I'm kind of weird, but I always hate that stuff. nine times out of ten, it ends up looking incredibly tacky to me.


/sadface

I have that stuff on my psu, drive bays, graphics cards, I/O mobo cover, RAM heatsinks, and H100.....doesn't look too bad


----------



## All3n

I had to enlarge the picture to see it, ya that looks pretty good. Subtle. What the hell.


----------



## BBEG

I'd sex it.

What?


----------



## Chickenman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> /sadface
> 
> I have that stuff on my psu, drive bays, graphics cards, I/O mobo cover, RAM heatsinks, and H100.....doesn't look too bad






I think your usage is very well done.

Sent me searching for it when I first saw your PSU, I would love to cover up my thermal take PSU stickers.


----------



## ebduncan

Anyone know where to get fan filter material that works better than the stock fractal Foam filter on the Arc Midi?

I would like to replace the Foam with something that works better, and is easier to clean.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Anyone know where to get fan filter material that works better than the stock fractal Foam filter on the Arc Midi?
> 
> I would like to replace the Foam with something that works better, and is easier to clean.


You could try an aquarium supply store. Some of the aquarium filters might work.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> /sadface
> 
> I have that stuff on my psu, drive bays, graphics cards, I/O mobo cover, RAM heatsinks, and H100.....doesn't look too bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Something about those three slot cards in SLI that makes them look so beast! How are the temps with the fan right next to them?


----------



## blue-cat

I know what you mean, I usually hate the look of carbon fibre even in black builds, mainly because they put it places where it's noticeable, like on the metalwork of the case. [email protected] has put it on select parts of components and spread its use so yeah, nice and subtle. Almost looks like they were made that way!









[email protected], is there any issue of it delaminating over time or is it expected that you have to reapply it after a certain period?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I would like to replace the Foam with something that works better, and is easier to clean.


Silverstone FF123 / FF143.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> /sadface
> 
> I have that stuff on my psu, drive bays, graphics cards, I/O mobo cover, RAM heatsinks, and H100.....doesn't look too bad


I'm with you! I too am a carbon fiber vinyl Freak!









http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c3/c30dbbcf_IMG_0666.jpeg


----------



## JRuxGaming

Such a boss case! Fractal Design Define R4


----------



## 72bluenova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Anyone know where to get fan filter material that works better than the stock fractal Foam filter on the Arc Midi?
> 
> I would like to replace the Foam with something that works better, and is easier to clean.


You can use dryer sheets; when dusty and all throw away and put a new sheet.


----------



## [email protected]

Dryer sheets? Are you really that inferior? Dryer sheets can build up static electricity!







Are you trying to make your computer smell better? Why don't you go to http://www.frozencpu.com/ and get fan filters there.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I'm with you! I too am a carbon fiber vinyl Freak!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c3/c30dbbcf_IMG_0666.jpeg


Carbon fiber looks are starting to make me wanna start a new build. Are they easy to maintain cleaning the case if you have Carbon Fiber on the case interior too? I wondered? Dust cleaning easy or troublesome?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Something about those three slot cards in SLI that makes them look so beast! How are the temps with the fan right next to them?


*THANK YOU THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR ALL THE KIND COMMENTS*









Temps are very good for triple-slot SLI.

Idle Temps: Top- 31C, Bottom- 27C

Gaming Temps (~50-70% Load): Top- 57-62C, Bottom- 38-40C

Benchmarking Temps: Top-74C, Bottom-44C

I removed all the HD bays, and I'm currently using (2x) NZXT 140mm + (1x) NZXT 120mm (bottom intake) as intake fans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> I know what you mean, I usually hate the look of carbon fibre even in black builds, mainly because they put it places where it's noticeable, like on the metalwork of the case. [email protected] has put it on select parts of components and spread its use so yeah, nice and subtle. Almost looks like they were made that way!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [email protected], is there any issue of it delaminating over time or is it expected that you have to reapply it after a certain period?


I have never have an issue with any delamination, discoloring, or peeling.....I guess as long as you clean the area of application before applying, you shouldn't have an issue. Other areas like stickers (the stickers on the Corsair RAM heatsinks) are a great surface to simply cut-and-stick








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Carbon fiber looks are starting to make me wanna start a new build. Are they easy to maintain cleaning the case if you have Carbon Fiber on the case interior too? I wondered? Dust cleaning easy or troublesome?


Cleaning is easy! The front fan filters keep out most of the dust, and because I removed the front HD bays, I just run a soft micro-fiber cloth over the internals every few days (I'm kind of a neat freak lol...) and use some canned air for everything else!

****One a completely different note****

Anyone with a WHITE Define R4 case willing to swap your LED/power switch (red) for my blue switch?
(Otherwise I plan on just swapping the LED with a red one







)


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Silverstone FF123 / FF143.


These will not work on the arc midi. I want to replace the stock foam with something better. Considering 95% of the top panel is fan filter clearly a single 140/120 fan filter will not work.
Quote:


> Dryer sheets? Are you really that inferior? Dryer sheets can build up static electricity! Are you trying to make your computer smell better? Why don't you go to http://www.frozencpu.com/ and get fan filters there.


Dryer sheets actually don't build static electricity unless friction is involved, since they won't move will not build static electricity. I don't want to make the computer smell better, that would just be odd, if it was stinky in the first place.

I ordered some of their mod right a+ super density material and some other super thin flexible material (plastic mesh) Will give it a shot.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> I know what you mean, I usually hate the look of carbon fibre even in black builds, mainly because they put it places where it's noticeable, like on the metalwork of the case. [email protected] has put it on select parts of components and spread its use so yeah, nice and subtle. Almost looks like they were made that way!


Exactly. It looks good in moderation or as small accents, but too many people use it to completely cover a part or panel.


----------



## BBEG

I worry about how much air can actually pass through that stuff. It seems almost as dense enough to be comparable to closed-cell foam, which would be anything but air filter material. I'm doing some web hunting for a sheet-like material that can be used as a filter but easily removed for cleaning, but my application (Define R4) is a lot different than yours on the Midi.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *THANK YOU THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR ALL THE KIND COMMENTS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are very good for triple-slot SLI.
> 
> Idle Temps: Top- 31C, Bottom- 27C
> 
> Gaming Temps (~50-70% Load): Top- 57-62C, Bottom- 38-40C
> 
> Benchmarking Temps: Top-74C, Bottom-44C
> 
> I removed all the HD bays, and I'm currently using (2x) NZXT 140mm + (1x) NZXT 120mm (bottom intake) as intake fans


Since you're using the windowed side panel, have you considered cutting vents or drilling holes to let that side fan function as an intake? Keeping them small, tight, and aligned with the fan wouldn't hurt aesthetics much (if at all) and would almost positively result in cooler GPU temps.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I worry about how much air can actually pass through that stuff. It seems almost as dense enough to be comparable to closed-cell foam, which would be anything but air filter material. I'm doing some web hunting for a sheet-like material that can be used as a filter but easily removed for cleaning, but my application (Define R4) is a lot different than yours on the Midi.


Why not just get a 10ppi foam filter pad like they use in aquariums? It should let air pass through easier. Otherwise you're looking at stuff like pantyhose or some nylon or polyester mesh like screen printing material. The density of that stuff will likely give worse performance than the foam pad.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Since you're using the windowed side panel, have you considered cutting vents or drilling holes to let that side fan function as an intake? Keeping them small, tight, and aligned with the fan wouldn't hurt aesthetics much (if at all) and would almost positively result in cooler GPU temps.


That fan is more of an "air circulator" of sorts...cool air moving on the inside of the window gets tossed at the gpu's.

The spacing is stacked, even when running with the side panel off (so that fan could, in theory intake air), temps remain the same.

If I upgraded my mobo (EVGA Z77 FTW maybe?) I could get some space between the gpu's and would definitely see a drop in temps with a side intake.









Speaking of that....anyone know of another mobo that would have that spacing? (P67, Z68. Z77....any works).

Only real requirement would be having the 1st slot be a PCI-E slot, and have (5) slot spacing between it and a 2nd PCI-E slot


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> Why not just get a 10ppi foam filter pad like they use in aquariums? It should let air pass through easier. Otherwise you're looking at stuff like pantyhose or some nylon or polyester mesh like screen printing material. The density of that stuff will likely give worse performance than the foam pad.


I might still have some of that stuff lying around. It would be really convenient if the solution is this simple; filters are very hard on air flow as it is but if this can both trap dust and be washable then add another sscore for DIYers.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> That fan is more of an "air circulator" of sorts...cool air moving on the inside of the window gets tossed at the gpu's.
> 
> The spacing is stacked, even when running with the side panel off (so that fan could, in theory intake air), temps remain the same.


Ouch. In that case, I'd agree that a motherboard upgrade would be your only shot at getting that top card's temps down. Unfortunately I don't know any boards with that spacing for PCI-E slots.

A little Google-Fu shows the following that may have the right spacing.

*MSI:* MSI Z77A-G45 Thunderbolt, MSI Z77 MPower, maybe other MSI boards.
*Asus:*The P8Z77-V DELUXE, P8Z77-V Pro, Maximus V series, Sabertooth Z77, maybe other Asus boards.
*Gigabyte:* G1.Sniper 3, GA-Z77X-UP5 TH, GA-Z77X-UP7, maybe other Gigabyte boards.
Didn't read too much into the above boards, but they look about right.

*Re: Define R4 Clearances*

I've been thinking about 140mm radiators lately after remembering Martin's tests showing Gentle Typhoons on adapters to be just as competitive with or outperform the bigger 140mm fans on 140 radiators. 140 rads are generally more effective than 120 rads for obvious reasons.

_Rear Fan Mount_ - This space will fit a rad at or less than 143mm x 185mm before brushing against the IO shield and the shelf just above the expansion slots. It's literally < 1-damn-mm too small a space to squeeze in an Alphacool 140 rad... unless you've got a push fan, that is, which would let an attached radiator clear both the IO shroud and the expansion slot shelf. Cool.









_Top Fan Mounts_ - Refer to these pics:

 

(Pardon the mess. Function-testing before my remaining cables come in.







)

You've got about 315mm in length and 190mm in width to work with. The width is more than enough for any 140 rad. Length will not fit the more common 280 rads. The SR1 280 and Swiftech MCR240 will need about 1-2mm of trimming. XSPC's EX 280 needs about 5-6mm of trimming, and Alphacool's 280s will need a solid 25-26mm cut out.

_Front Fan Mounts_ - You've got about 310mm from case floor to the bottom of the 5.25 cage's HDD cage mount bracket thing, or 325mm if you can squeeze the rad in that little 37mm-ish notch between the front of the 5.25 cage and that HDD cage bracket. Width is a nonissue; you can lay the longest single 140 rad sideways and it'll fit fine. Length will be just as difficult or moreso as it was in the top fan mounts. Removing that HDD cage mounting bracket clears up some space for most common 280s, but the longer ones will still be left out without removing the 5.25 cage altogether.

_Bottom Fan Mount_ - With the bottom HDD cage removed you can fit any single 140 rad out there length- or width-wise. Just be mindful of your PSU cable plugs.

Back to the drawing board I suppose...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Ouch. In that case, I'd agree that a motherboard upgrade would be your only shot at getting that top card's temps down. Unfortunately I don't know any boards with that spacing for PCI-E slots.
> 
> A little Google-Fu shows the following that may have the right spacing.
> 
> *MSI:* MSI Z77A-G45 Thunderbolt, MSI Z77 MPower, maybe other MSI boards.
> *Asus:*The P8Z77-V DELUXE, P8Z77-V Pro, Maximus V series, Sabertooth Z77, maybe other Asus boards.
> *Gigabyte:* G1.Sniper 3, GA-Z77X-UP5 TH, GA-Z77X-UP7, maybe other Gigabyte boards.
> Didn't read too much into the above boards, but they look about right.


Yeah, looked into the Sniper G1, Z77-UP7 and EVGA FTW (the only boards with slot #1 having a PCI-E x16 slot) but these are...$$$ (400+)









These coolers are HUGE, and hard to suffocate.....my temps look pretty good (even better when compared to reference cards), so I've never really been concerned with the temps. Real-world gaming load sub-65C on top card.....all good.









*EDIT* Load temps (non-benchmarking) for reference GTX 680 (non-SLI) are ~72C ...my temps in BF3, 54-60C. I can live with that.


----------



## dairyproduce

Hey guys,

I'm building a computer running i5 3570k and the GigaByte 7950 in the R4.

I'm not sure if the stock case fans will be enough to cool them as I'm planning to OC. Right now I'm thinking of either getting NH-D14 or a CLC.

Is it worth it to replace/buy more case fans for this kind of build? Also, should I add fans onto the top/side to maximize cooling? Or will this add a lot of noise?

Thanks!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I've been thinking about 140mm radiators lately after remembering Martin's tests showing Gentle Typhoons on adapters to be just as competitive with or outperform the bigger 140mm fans on 140 radiators. 140 rads are generally more effective than 120 rads for obvious reasons.


This is true, however its not because the 120mm fans are better. It's because when you use a fan adapter the fan is further away from the radiator fins, thus reducing the dead zone behind the fan hub.

besides a 120mm fan in push/pull is better than a 140mm radiator in push or pull only. Not Sure about the R4 but I know in my midi I can only do 140mm push or pull on the top panel. I can do 120mm push/pull even with a thick Xspc RX radiator because the 120 mounts are offset However with the 140mm mounts its centered, causing motherboard clearance issues. I am currently only running push, but I do have another set of corsair SP120's coming in the mail to fix that issue.


----------



## BBEG

Eh, Martin found shrouds to have little difference in his most recent tests with fans, so that part's debatable. It seems like the 140mm fans available simply don't have the static pressure that the higher-end 120mm fans do (Deltas, San Aces, Gentle Typhoons), negating the advantage of their larger fan area. I'm a little bummed that I can't use 280 rads in the R4 without at least some modifications though.

I'm hoping to have enough junk fans that I can gut and test shrouds myself on the radiators I [eventually] settle on. Gabe at Swiftech confirmed that an Apogee Drive II at 17-20% can easily manage 3 rads and a GPU block though, so that settles one worry with my intended setup.


----------



## sherlock

I am considering getting this 240mm AIO Water cooler from Swiftech for my R4. Do you guys think it can fit up top?


----------



## eBombzor

(All vents silenced)

I have one front fan (the mount near the bottom of the case) feeding air to the HDD and I removed the top HDD cage. I moved the rear fan to the bottom of the case next to the PSU as an intake b/c I felt my Evo pushed enough air through the back.

I want to install another fan on the front so that I can give more air to the CPU cooler. Which fan would you guys recommend? I was thinking about the Noctua NF-A14 FLX (it's better than the P14, right?) but I don't know a whole lot of fans, so I'm open to any suggestions.

One more question, I want to install either a 7850 / 660 / 7870 in my system. I know open coolers are way quieter and more efficient than blowers, but since I want to have all the vents closed, which one would be better for my situation? I have a bottom intake fan so would that be enough for open coolers?


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> I am considering getting this 240mm AIO Water cooler from Swiftech for my R4. Do you guys think it can fit up top?


Length is fine, width is fine, depth _might_ be an issue depending on where it rests relative to the top of the mobo (though a couple holes drilled should let you offset the rad/fans similar to the Arc Midi). I'd cut up some cardboard in the same dimensions to be sure.


----------



## tonyjones

Fractal Design R3 "Black Pearl"

My budget build, took about 5 months of waiting for the hottest deals, total price $300 build!


----------



## HiCZoK

guys I need a word of advice,

I decided to cover up the free vents on Fractal 3000 case (which I love)
And I decided to do it with plexi, so I cut to 14cmx14cm squares, drilled holes for screws and installed. now:

1) The side panel is covered with the same plexi as on top, but on the side it is attached from the inside with simple clips. You can barely see the plexi from outside.
2) I am not sure about the top. As for now I've installed it on top with only one screw for testing purposes. Do You like how it looks? Or maybe should i hide it inside, like on side panel ? (or move the one from side panel outside)

??
Also. Hide the holes of the top plexi with rubber feet or not? (as on the image)

I just need opinions! Can't decide myself. Also. Would be sick to install some leds from inside on the edges of the plexi but thats far future cause I dont have time. Just wanted to do something quick for now, to help with the dust problem. The case is a dust magnet


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> guys I need a word of advice,
> 
> I decided to cover up the free vents on Fractal 3000 case (which I love)
> And I decided to do it with plexi, so I cut to 14cmx14cm squares, drilled holes for screws and installed. now:
> 
> 1) The side panel is covered with the same plexi as on top, but on the side it is attached from the inside with simple clips. You can barely see the plexi from outside.
> 2) I am not sure about the top. As for now I've installed it on top with only one screw for testing purposes. Do You like how it looks? Or maybe should i hide it inside, like on side panel ? (or move the one from side panel outside)
> 
> ??
> Also. Hide the holes of the top plexi with rubber feet or not? (as on the image)
> 
> I just need opinions! Can't decide myself. Also. Would be sick to install some leds from inside on the edges of the plexi but thats far future cause I dont have time. Just wanted to do something quick for now, to help with the dust problem. The case is a dust magnet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


It definitely looks interesting. Have you considered doing just a small riser between the plexi and the case on the top? I think that could look good, it would still help silence the build, but it would also still allow for some air flow. I'm not sure how I feel about the side panel though.

I wouldn't do the rubber feet. I'd just try to make the screws/bolts flush with the acrylic.


----------



## HiCZoK

Very good idea. I have small rubber rings which i could put where the screws are betwneen plexi and case, to elevate it.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> Such a boss case! Fractal Design Define R4


How does what phantek feel inside in r4?







enough room? i just thinking if lga 1150 will need new mounting kit


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> It definitely looks interesting. Have you considered doing just a small riser between the plexi and the case on the top? I think that could look good, it would still help silence the build, but it would also still allow for some air flow. I'm not sure how I feel about the side panel though.
> 
> I wouldn't do the rubber feet. I'd just try to make the screws/bolts flush with the acrylic.


Was just aboutto suggest rising it up enough to get airflow under and then cover both fan spots on the top. I'd rather get the windowed sidepanel than cover up the standard one. It's pretty cheap.

Because the case if matte it might look better to get matte acrylic.


----------



## HiCZoK

I will post pics tomorrow. With both plexis outside and elevated a bit. I know it's cheap but whatever helps the dust and is not nylon


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> I was thinking the same thing!.....I'll get working on it this week....if I can figure out how to do it...


How about one of these:

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-031-AL


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> How about one of these:
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-031-AL


Looks awesome! (although I can't tell how it mounts the fan...lol)

Can they ship to the US?


----------



## BBEG

All the time.


----------



## Chickenman

http://hw-lab.com/peter-has-two-140mm-fans-for-your-graphic-card.html


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> All the time.


If that's the case, I may have to grab some of those sexy Alpenfohn and BeQuiet! fans.


----------



## [email protected]

Anyone know if any other online vendor sells these? (shipping would be over $25 to the US....bit much for a $10 part) :/


----------



## BBEG

Yeah, shipping isn't fun. For some parts though (Noiseblocker Multiframes, TY-147s, discontinued Lian Li cases, etc.) it ends up being cheaper with shipping than getting it from a US vendor.


----------



## [email protected]

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17728/slf-13/Expansion_Slot_Side_Fan_Mounting_Kit_-_Black.html?tl=g40c18s62

This looks promising.....only issue would be lack of space (only room for 1x 120mm or 1x 140mm) ....gonna try to fabricate one this weekend, otherwise I'll end up ordering one


----------



## mtraccer

Hey all my windowed side panel arrived and here's some pics as promised I must say the finish on this panel really makes the old ones look shody. Also is does have the same noise reduction material as the R4 so that's really cool also.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtraccer*
> 
> Hey all my windowed side panel arrived and here's some pics as promised I must say the finish on this panel really makes the old ones look shody. Also is does have the same noise reduction material as the R4 so that's really cool also.


Very nice! Where did you order the side panel?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtraccer*
> 
> Hey all my windowed side panel arrived and here's some pics as promised I must say the finish on this panel really makes the old ones look shody. Also is does have the same noise reduction material as the R4 so that's really cool also.


Very nice! Where did you order the side panel?

Sorry for the DP...stupid phone!


----------



## mtraccer

J&R music and computer world


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtraccer*
> 
> J&R music and computer world


Kool...Thanks!

Just ordered one!


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> How does what phantek feel inside in r4?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> enough room? i just thinking if lga 1150 will need new mounting kit


There is still around 1/2 inch between the top of the cooler and the window. It seems like a perfect fit inside the case.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Just wanted to post a small update to my case. I had an extra strip of IKEA Dioder lying around so I decided to throw it in my case.


Very good.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Just wanted to post a small update to my case. I had an extra strip of IKEA Dioder lying around so I decided to throw it in my case.


Niice








is the Bitspower drain-thingy-I-cannot-remember-the-name-of awsomly enough just fitting that way or are you using rotaries?

Its tight in there.









BTW: Love them Monsta's.


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> It definitely looks interesting. Have you considered doing just a small riser between the plexi and the case on the top? I think that could look good, it would still help silence the build, but it would also still allow for some air flow. I'm not sure how I feel about the side panel though.
> 
> I wouldn't do the rubber feet. I'd just try to make the screws/bolts flush with the acrylic.


Ok I've elevated that plexi a little. I know it's simple and kinda cheap but I worked on it for couple of hours for some weird reason








And yes - those pics quality is TERRIBLE. sorry for that.
also. cable management pic in spoiler. I am not too good at it but It's tidies pc i've ever managed to make














Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Ok I've elevated that plexi a little. I know it's simple and kinda cheap but I worked on it for couple of hours for some weird reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes - those pics quality is TERRIBLE. sorry for that.
> also. cable management pic in spoiler. I am not too good at it but It's tidies pc i've ever managed to make


That's very nice man, congrats. I must have too much cables on my PSU because on mine the back of the case is full of cables.


----------



## blue-cat

HiC Zok - looking better. If you used the case to draw a template that matches the raised metal rounded edges of the fan mounts it's look even better.


----------



## JiminyBillyBob

So for elegance, silence and dust-proof, is there anything that comes close to the R4?


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love this idea.







Like someone suggested before, I think it would look a lot better with some matte plexi, but it looks fine as is. You should have the mounts placed somewhere near the center so you don't see them.. so it looks like it's floating, kinda like the Nanoxia Deep Silence 1:


----------



## HiCZoK

So many cool idead :d

What about white led strips inside around the plexi ?
I have white led stripes but I have not idea how and in what place to connect em. any help ?

I had some trouble screwing the top plexi from inside the case. I had to remove the motherboard and dvdrom for that and I still couldnt fit a screwdriver in because of hdd case. Don't make me remove it now


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Yeah, shipping isn't fun. For some parts though (Noiseblocker Multiframes, TY-147s, discontinued Lian Li cases, etc.) it ends up being cheaper with shipping than getting it from a US vendor.


Yeah....$56 total T__T ...and they only ship (via PayPal) to confirmed UK addresses. *sigh*

Looks like I'm fabricating a bracket this weekend







I have some black angle steel-frames lying around......

I will post my progress!


----------



## vangsfreaken

well, i started working on my core 1000 today







http://www.overclock.net/t/1350914/core-1000-for-the-gathering-2013/0_50


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Very good.


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Niice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is the Bitspower drain-thingy-I-cannot-remember-the-name-of awsomly enough just fitting that way or are you using rotaries?
> 
> Its tight in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: Love them Monsta's.


Yup, I have enough clearance to use a barb on it with some 5/8OD tubing on it to drain into a bowl.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> well, i started working on my core 1000 today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1350914/core-1000-for-the-gathering-2013/0_50


Well, to bad I wont be at TG13, was last year, but it got kinda boring in the end :\
Well, good luck with the modding!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L*
> 
> Thanks!
> Yup, I have enough clearance to use a barb on it with some 5/8OD tubing on it to drain into a bowl.


Awesome!


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Yeah....$56 total T__T ...and they only ship (via PayPal) to confirmed UK addresses. *sigh*
> 
> Looks like I'm fabricating a bracket this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some black angle steel-frames lying around......
> 
> I will post my progress!


Please do. I'm extremely interested to see this.

Follow-up for those paying attention to the vertical pci-slot fan mount idea. These are the current options I've found.

Zalman ZM-SC-100 cooler (1x 92mm fan)
A Tech fab PCI bracket (can be modified easily enough, I think)
Lian Li BS-03 (1x 120mm fan, looks ugly but modifiable)
fan mount bracket (for 1x or 2x 90mm fans)
Tweakmonster dual 80mm fan bracket
Dual pci fan mount (looks like it can accommodate 2x 120mm fans)
modDIY expansion slot side fan mounting kit
Tweakmonster single 120mm fan bracket (looks damn near perfect if you hit that reflective part with matte paint... but not made anymore)
Of these, the Tweakmonster single 120mm bracket looks like the best solution, but it's out of production and nobody seems to have any for sale. I'll have to find a source for someone who can make these...


----------



## BBEG

My R4 weekend update!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





My super-tidy test bed. No one ever accused me of being organized.











*Near-Future To Do List:*

Wait PATIENTLY for my shiny new Seasonic Platinum 660 to come in (Shell Shocker = $90 shipped with rebate.







)
Measure the following
exact distances between PSU and components (mobo, CPU, storage drives, etc.)
Measure exact distances between SATA plugs and two drives mounted behind mobo
Measure exact distances between SATA plugs & both 5.25 bays and PSU to both 5.25 bays

Verify method of removing mounting bracket for top HDD cage on the bottom of 5.25 bay cage (I suspect it's inside the 5.25 bay itself)
Draw up solution to single 120mm fan mount to vertical PCI slot
Acquire WD Scorpio Blue WD10JPVT drive (lets me put 1x 256GB SSD and 1x 1TB 2.5" _quiet_ HDD behind motherboard)
Acquire custom cables from modDIY for PSU and SATA cables
Sleeve in black and blue, black and grey, or solid black
Use measurements from above to get cables in the right lengths to best route and secure cables for minimum visibility

Per this suggestion, reroute the front panel leads to run behind the motherboard instead of behind the motherboard tray to reduce their visibility
Consider sleeving the front panel leads


Past this, I start buying watercooling gear one component at a time. Rads first, then, Apogee Driver 2, then Swiftech Komodo GPU block, then tubage and fittings, then finally fans. Since watercooling this will be a very expensive proposition, it will be a pretty drawn out process. Evidently I ought to be paying bills and buying food before I just dump another grand into 'puter stuff.


----------



## adridu59

^ I would buy a WD10EZEX which is WD's best consumer drive and fit it in the 5.25" bay.


----------



## BBEG

Unfortunately, a 3.5" drive will not fit in the space behind the motherboard tray. One 5.25 bay will go to a res for watercooling and the other will have my Icy Dock hot-swap caddy (which fits 1x 2.5" drive and 1x 3.5" drive at the same time).


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> ^ I would buy a WD10EZEX which is WD's best consumer drive and fit it in the 5.25" bay.


Me having this I have to agree. very good drive.


----------



## rocstar96

Any ideas if a core 1000 could fit a 157mm heatsink?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rocstar96*
> 
> Any ideas if a core 1000 could fit a 157mm heatsink?


The maximum is 148mm.


----------



## rocstar96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rocstar96*
> 
> Any ideas if a core 1000 could fit a 157mm heatsink?
> 
> 
> 
> The maximum is 148mm.
Click to expand...

There was a review mentioning a 159mm heatsink (CM Evo) fitted in but the side panel was bulging, I was just wondering if I could get away with it with 2mm less.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rocstar96*
> 
> There was a review mentioning a 159mm heatsink (CM Evo) fitted in but the side panel was bulging, I was just wondering if I could get away with it with 2mm less.


I see, have a look at the Thermalright True Spirit 120M (the M variant is only 145mm tall) or the CM Hyper T4.

EDIT: some nice info in this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1306872/fractal-core-1000-hyper-212-evo/0_20#post_18250414


----------



## All3n

Some very cool ideas in here lately.

I may see what I have for fans laying around and just fasten one to the PCI slot cover. (Or another no fractal cover.) I had that spot reserved for my tuner card, other then it is kinda ugly there. My only other option is to put the tuner card next to the GPU, but that pretty much blocks one of the GPU fans, although I don't think it would cause much of a heat problem, as I would at least have a fancy new fan mounted blowing in between them. Just kinda OCD about somethings. Anyhow it would not be a permanent mod, so I could always remove it if needed.

I really dig the plexiglass covers for the top. I wanted to ask HiCZoK, or anyone else who has done that mod, if there was a significant increase in sound level vs. the R4 acoustic panels that traditionally covers the holes? I think I may try this out as well, I'm just wondering if I should make the panel a little bigger to minimize the direct paths for sound to escape.(With the Nanoxia Deep Silence 1 example posted a few pages back, you can clearly see the rear exhaust fan port)

I also am pondering adding acoustic dampening material to the bottom of the Plexi to reduce reflections. I would probably make it a little smaller then the panel so that it won't be noticed around the edges.

Any thoughts on this?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rocstar96*
> 
> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by adridu59 View Post
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by rocstar96 View Post
> 
> Any ideas if a core 1000 could fit a 157mm heatsink?
> 
> 
> 
> The maximum is 148mm.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There was a review mentioning a 159mm heatsink (CM Evo) fitted in but the side panel was bulging, I was just wondering if I could get away with it with 2mm less.
Click to expand...

Thermalright Macho 120 is 120x102x150mm
http://thermalright.com/html/products/cpu_cooler/macho120.html

Thermalright True Spirit 120M is 32x57x145mm
http://thermalright.com/html/products/cpu_cooler/true_spirit_120m.html


----------



## Gooner

Picked up a Fractal Design Define Mini a couple weeks back for my HTPC/Steambox. Have it, bought an Antec 450 Watt PSU and have a spare 3570K, GTX 460, OCZ Agility III 60 GB SSD to go in it. Need to pick up a mATX motherboard and another HDD for it here in the next couple weeks. I'll have more pictures when I put the parts together in it. But so far, it's a fantastic looking little case. I can't wait to see how quiet it's going to be.


----------



## ad3ath

Awwwww, baby fractal!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gooner*
> 
> Picked up a Fractal Design Define Mini a couple weeks back for my HTPC/Steambox. Have it, bought an Antec 450 Watt PSU and have a spare 3570K, GTX 460, OCZ Agility III 60 GB SSD to go in it. Need to pick up a mATX motherboard and another HDD for it here in the next couple weeks. I'll have more pictures when I put the parts together in it. But so far, it's a fantastic looking little case. I can't wait to see how quiet it's going to be.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Pretty sleek. What size monitor are you using?


----------



## ZeVo

Hey guys. Got a quick question for you.

I am trying to do the front panel mod Kaneda13 did but I am finding it a little hard.

I used cardboard at first, but as I cut with scissors, the cardboard gets really weak and cannot put it onto the front panel mesh.

What other material do you guys recommend?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Hey guys. Got a quick question for you.
> 
> I am trying to do the front panel mod Kaneda13 did but I am finding it a little hard.
> 
> I used cardboard at first, but as I cut with scissors, the cardboard gets really weak and cannot put it onto the front panel mesh.
> 
> What other material do you guys recommend?


I used black matte board and cut it with a circle die. (picked it up from a local photography studio).

It worked really well, and looked amazing!


----------



## edelfurioso

i have a 212 evo and i went to the store and i saw the h60 for like $40 (not the last one that came out the one before) and i still have time to return my 212 evo

what u guys think?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I used black matte board and cut it with a circle die. (picked it up from a local photography studio).
> 
> It worked really well, and looked amazing!


Thank you for the suggestion. I might pick some up in the future. Would you recommend cutting it with scissors?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> i have a 212 evo and i went to the store and i saw the h60 for like $40 (not the last one that came out the one before) and i still have time to return my 212 evo
> 
> what u guys think?


If I was you, I would just keep the 212. Since you already have the 212 the H60 wouldn't be any better in temps (maybe 1-2 max.)


----------



## adridu59

The 212 Evo performs a tiny bit better I think, through they're usually on the same level of performance.

Keep it if you like WC.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Hey guys. Got a quick question for you.
> 
> I am trying to do the front panel mod Kaneda13 did but I am finding it a little hard.
> 
> I used cardboard at first, but as I cut with scissors, the cardboard gets really weak and cannot put it onto the front panel mesh.
> 
> What other material do you guys recommend?


Pretty sure he said it was a temporary material. I'd try particle board myself.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Thank you for the suggestion. I might pick some up in the future. Would you recommend cutting it with scissors?


I would use a small x-acto blade.


----------



## rovert19

Does anyone know what kind of led is used in the define r3 power switch? I'd like to switch to a white one.


----------



## Gooner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3ath*
> 
> Awwwww, baby fractal!


I know! I wanted something small and quiet to go next to/behind my TV. I'm really excited to be getting some more parts in for it so I can start building! My new desk setup is taking up my current attention and/or funds.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Pretty sleek. What size monitor are you using?


At the moment it's going to be an HTPC/Steambox connected to my 32" 720P Panasonic TV. Not the best, but it was free.


----------



## Sparocool

Hello members

head over here to see my Fractal Design Define R3 MOD in progress.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1348903/build-log-devine-desire#post_19105758

Best case ever =)


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> If I was you, I would just keep the 212. Since you already have the 212 the H60 wouldn't be any better in temps (maybe 1-2 max.)


i already got the h60 an its install.
i return the 212 evo and i got the h60 for $38.
What u guys think?


----------



## koulaid

My Node 304.


----------



## AbdullahG

Beautiful...

Any pics of the internals?


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> i already got the h60 an its install.
> i return the 212 evo and i got the h60 for $38.
> What u guys think?


Well, since you already own it I will jump in and respond.

I have an H60 with push/pull fans on my Intel i7-920 CPU, it has worked completely trouble-free for 3 years+.

I use it in the rear exhaust position and for a year had my CPU running an overclock to 3.8GHz 24hrs a day, 7days a week.

I'm only back to stock clocks because I plan to move my whole system into a new case (XL R2?) soon. Then I will OC again.

I'm using Cooler Master Excalibur fans, they work fine but are loud - so they will also be replaced soon.


----------



## dervladimir

R4&#8230; in feb or mar planing do sleevin'


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> R4&#8230; in feb or mar planing do sleevin'


What's that cpu cooler? The fan looks really nice.


----------



## dervladimir

IceHammer-4500 with Deepcool UF140... it's much better than was in box (-10°C in stress-tests on 4.5Ghz)


----------



## Charlie--

Heads up for all UK Fractal fans, ebuyer now have the following in stock:

- Fractal Accessory Adjust 108 Fan Controller
- Fractal Design (Black) Side Panel for Define R3

Still no sign of the window panel for the Arc Midi yet, but I am sure they will stock it too.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koulaid*
> 
> My Node 304.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a sleek looking case. Love that front panel.


----------



## DarrellW94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Heads up for all UK Fractal fans, ebuyer now have the following in stock:
> 
> - Fractal Accessory Adjust 108 Fan Controller
> - Fractal Design (Black) Side Panel for Define R3
> 
> Still no sign of the window panel for the Arc Midi yet, but I am sure they will stock it too.


I believe this is my first post on these forums, but I follow this thread every day because some people's builds are just wonderful to look at, and give me a lot of inspiration!!!









I just ordered the windowed side panel for the Arc Midi yesterday, and it will be at my doorstep tomorrow!









You can order it from Scan here:

Fractal Design Arc Midi/Define R4 Side Panel

I hope this helps some people.


----------



## BlackskyDK

I just got my R4 last month, and today i got the sidepanel with the window, along with a NZXT HUE. This is my first post around here =)

Please leave feedback on what i could do different, if anything, in my case to make it look better.






I think i did an okay job, considering i don't have a modular PSU.

Can i be a part of the club? =)


----------



## [email protected]

WELCOME!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> Please leave feedback on what i could do different, if anything, in my case to make it look better.
> 
> 
> 
> I think i did an okay job, considering i don't have a modular PSU.


If you wanted to clean it up further, individually-sleeved cables (24-pin, 8-pin & VGA) are always a nice touch.

Also, if you're not using any optical drives, you can always mount your HDD's in those bays and remove the bottom HDD rack altogether.

You can mount that SSD behind your mobo tray, or on a bracket anywhere in your case. (Or anywhere you can use double-sided adhesive lol)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Please do. I'm extremely interested to see this.


Bracket has been completed! Different that what I first imagined. (I came across a steel frame in my garage that was 240mm wide.....couldn't pass it up lol)

Haven't had a chance to take any pics (unless you want a few phone snapshots...I'll try to get on that this week)

Ended up installing (2x) 120mm fans on a steel bracket (painted black) that uses magnetic strips to attach itself to the bottom and rear of the case.

Just had to sand it, paint it, and drill a few holes for the fan mounts. Worked out great!

I'm also messing around with the idea of using a pair of Asetek AIO's to cool the cards....(740 GF's or Antec 620's) Pics coming soon!!!


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, giving you all a quick reminder of my project with the R4: http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/build-log-the-define-project/0_20

It's progressing well. I have to make one last order from PPC, obtain a new radiator from HWLabs and I'm ready to put all the hardware in the case.

I also got sponsored by a local shop here in Israel so I've got a new board now (Mpowerrrr) and perhaps more stuff as I go. Be sure to check it out. It can give you ideas and inspiration of what you can possibly do with the R4.


----------



## Slobergoof

Hello everyone here at the Fractal Design Club!
Recently I decided to begin a case mod with the Core 1000. I wanted to give my old HP computer some new life, and try out some mods as well, Specifically ... " The Mod".
For those unfamiliar with "the mod", its attaching an antec 620 or h80 to a GPU.








As I am unable to OC my CPU with my mobo, I will use this opportunity to OC my GPU to the max. My only concern is fitment of the Antec 920 I wish to use inside the core 1000 itself. I've seen it mounted upside down, but could it fit on its side without blocking the rear side panel?


----------



## sjramon24

my ARC MIDI simple mod


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slobergoof*
> 
> Hello everyone here at the Fractal Design Club!
> Recently I decided to begin a case mod with the Core 1000. I wanted to give my old HP computer some new life, and try out some mods as well, Specifically ... " The Mod".
> For those unfamiliar with "the mod", its attaching an antec 620 or h80 to a GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I am unable to OC my CPU with my mobo, I will use this opportunity to OC my GPU to the max. My only concern is fitment of the Antec 920 I wish to use inside the core 1000 itself. I've seen it mounted upside down, but could it fit on its side without blocking the rear side panel?


Yes, you can mount a radiator in the front







just make sure the total length of gpu and rad (with fans) don't exceed 350 mm


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> WELCOME!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wanted to clean it up further, individually-sleeved cables (24-pin, 8-pin & VGA) are always a nice touch.


Yea, im gonna do that at some point, i just don't want to do it with this PSU. Whenever i get the money to get a bigger PSU which is gonna be modular this time. (I have waay to many cables on the back that i dont need







)


----------



## Slobergoof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> Yes, you can mount a radiator in the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just make sure the total length of gpu and rad (with fans) don't exceed 350 mm


Thanks Vangs, I've seen it done before, but my question was can the Antec or Corsair unit fit on its SIDE. The tubes seem to protrude a bit farther from the rad, but has anyone tried mounting these coolers on their sides?


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sjramon24*
> 
> my ARC MIDI simple mod


how did you put that hard drive on the bottom,is it possible to screw it in existing holes or you modded?


----------



## [email protected]

Picture of the bracket (sorry for the low light, system running in my game room)



What do you think? Not bad for the price of free


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Picture of the bracket (sorry for the low light, system running in my game room)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think? Not bad for the price of free


Looks awesome! Care to make a tutorial?

In other news, my system is still dead.







Never went this long without having it up and running and I having gaming withdrawals haha. Can't wait to get some extra cash so I can replace my dead PSU with the New SeaSonic X750. I really like the all black cables they switched too. Figure I'd upload some nice pictures when I get it because I can't seem to find too many. I've also been thinking about switching my H50 out for a black Phanteks PH-TC14PE. Guess I need to start a build log..


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> how did you put that hard drive on the bottom,is it possible to screw it in existing holes or you modded?


He's just placed it. If you look carefully it's not parrallel to the fron fans so is just loose... I think at least.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> He's just placed it. If you look carefully it's not parrallel to the fron fans so is just loose... I think at least.


Well that is not smart! Hard drives need to be still and secured.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slobergoof*
> 
> Hello everyone here at the Fractal Design Club!
> Recently I decided to begin a case mod with the Core 1000. I wanted to give my old HP computer some new life, and try out some mods as well, Specifically ... " The Mod".
> For those unfamiliar with "the mod", its attaching an antec 620 or h80 to a GPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I am unable to OC my CPU with my mobo, I will use this opportunity to OC my GPU to the max. My only concern is fitment of the Antec 920 I wish to use inside the core 1000 itself. I've seen it mounted upside down, but could it fit on its side without blocking the rear side panel?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That will depend on the radiator, as the total width of the front(inside measures) is 155-156mm. Anyway, good luck


----------



## S333N

Hey folks, new Define R4 owner here. Had a couple questions about efficiently cooling a overclocked graphics card in this case. I currently have what I believe is a positive air flow in this case, photos will come at a later date.

I have 6 Corsair AF140's sitting in boxes next to me (got them cheap, and I will resell at my shop if they are not needed). I want to get this machine running very cool. My last case was a CM Stacker 830 with almost every fan slot taken up, so I am not worried about wind noise. I bought the R4 because it looks amazing and feels great, and cost $80 shipped.

Heres a rough idea of what I am going to try first (2 front fans at max rpm/rear @ lowest rpm):



What would you guys do if you weren't too worried about fan noise and had 6 AF140's and 2 included fractals?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Looks awesome! Care to make a tutorial?


Would be happy to! (if I get some time this weekend)


----------



## sjramon24

that's temporary, as I'm not moving my cpu. will be placing a bracket to secure it there. removed the drive cage for better airflow. =D


----------



## sjramon24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Well that is not smart! Hard drives need to be still and secured.


that's temporary, as I'm not moving my cpu. will be placing a bracket to secure it there. removed the drive cage for better airflow. =D


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S333N*
> 
> 
> 
> What would you guys do if you weren't too worried about fan noise and had 6 AF140's and 2 included fractals?


I almost have the same setup, except i don't have the sidepanel fan on, since it does not come with a dustfilter. i do however have my two exhaust fans on top instead, since my cpu cooler is blowing the hot air towards the top of the case instead of the back.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just gonna put this here:

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=113

Looks pretty good.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just gonna put this here:
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=113
> Looks pretty good.


I was going to post it but you anticipated me by a minute








So, the Arc Midi R2 looks almost exactly like the Arc Midi. Apart from the side window I don't see any difference, at least not major ones


----------



## carmas

Ok, the only other novelty is that both HDD cages are now removable. Well, nothing worth upgrading for any Arc Midi owner, but a nice little addition for new users.


----------



## catbuster

Just ordered my R4! Had core 1k for 1 month and its time to say goodbye


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> I was going to post it but you anticipated me by a minute
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, the Arc Midi R2 looks almost exactly like the Arc Midi. Apart from the side window I don't see any difference, at least not major ones


Differences are:

Window, SSD mount on motherboard tray, HDD cages, 2x USB 3.0, fan controller, removable fan filters and maybe a few more small ones.


----------



## bortoloj

New Fractal ARC R2









I like it very nice


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Differences are:
> 
> Window, SSD mount on motherboard tray, HDD cages, 2x USB 3.0, fan controller, removable fan filters and maybe a few more small ones.


It also has the option to install 120mm fans in the front and both 140mm and 120mm front fans can be installed with screws!!! It might even allow you to install a 280mm (Kraken X60 or the new Corsair 110) radiator in the front!


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Differences are:
> 
> Window, SSD mount on motherboard tray, HDD cages, 2x USB 3.0, fan controller, removable fan filters and maybe a few more small ones.


Yes, I noticed later the other improvements. all in all is a lot of small changes, but after all the Arc Midi was already a good case, so there drastically change it.

However, it is nothing worth upgrading for a Midi owner. Actually I think that people interested in modding the case might have the chance to find some cheap Arc Midi and then do all the mods in your list. At least that's what I will do with my Midi.


----------



## Airrick10

Here's an Arc Midi R2 video!


----------



## bortoloj

I like the new front panel it's really better


----------



## Col5

Worth a read http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/4


----------



## Col5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S333N*
> 
> Hey folks, new Define R4 owner here. Had a couple questions about efficiently cooling a overclocked graphics card in this case. I currently have what I believe is a positive air flow in this case, photos will come at a later date.
> 
> I have 6 Corsair AF140's sitting in boxes next to me (got them cheap, and I will resell at my shop if they are not needed). I want to get this machine running very cool. My last case was a CM Stacker 830 with almost every fan slot taken up, so I am not worried about wind noise. I bought the R4 because it looks amazing and feels great, and cost $80 shipped.
> 
> Heres a rough idea of what I am going to try first (2 front fans at max rpm/rear @ lowest rpm):
> 
> 
> 
> What would you guys do if you weren't too worried about fan noise and had 6 AF140's and 2 included fractals?


http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/4


----------



## K4IKEN

Fuuuuuuu... that new Arc looks so good!


----------



## Elyminator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Here's an Arc Midi R2 video!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


you mean they expect me to wait 2 freaking months for this?!?!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elyminator*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> you mean they expect me to wait 2 freaking months for this?!?!


I know... right! Lol hopefully something happens to my arc midi so I can get an AMR2!


----------



## lurker2501

Completely not worth the upgrade.


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S333N*
> 
> Hey folks, new Define R4 owner here. Had a couple questions about efficiently cooling a overclocked graphics card in this case. I currently have what I believe is a positive air flow in this case, photos will come at a later date.
> 
> I have 6 Corsair AF140's sitting in boxes next to me (got them cheap, and I will resell at my shop if they are not needed). I want to get this machine running very cool. My last case was a CM Stacker 830 with almost every fan slot taken up, so I am not worried about wind noise. I bought the R4 because it looks amazing and feels great, and cost $80 shipped.
> 
> Heres a rough idea of what I am going to try first (2 front fans at max rpm/rear @ lowest rpm):
> 
> 
> 
> What would you guys do if you weren't too worried about fan noise and had 6 AF140's and 2 included fractals?


I'd use the side as an exhaust.you'd still have positive pressure and no filter required.. but try both ways and see what gets better temps.. side panel fan is the easiest one to flip


----------



## ivoryg37

Just modded my fractal core 1000 front panel. First time I've ever done something like this. Still waiting for some things before I can finish the build


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Just modded my fractal core 1000 front panel. First time I've ever done something like this. Still waiting for some things before I can finish the build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whoa, that looks sick! Do you have a build log?


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Just modded my fractal core 1000 front panel. First time I've ever done something like this. Still waiting for some things before I can finish the build


how did u measured where to fit the holes?


----------



## D33G33

Hi all can I join!?

New to the forum have been lurking a bit while i've been waiting for parts to arrive.

The goodies


Unpacked


And dry prelim testing


Just making sure everything is running OK and no DOA's then I'll be going to water and some tasty other mods. Cable management is horrible as its all coming out again in a couple of weeks.

System is
3770k
Asus Z77 Sabertooth
Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram
EVGA GTX 670 4gb SuperClocked
Coolermaster Silent Hybrid Pro 850
Most importantly a Black Pearl Refine R4









I've been out of the game a long time, hopefully this will work OK.


----------



## Eseuldor

Always loved how sick that board looks!


----------



## earwig1990

I would like to post this for anyone that ever needs to, considering after months of research I found no answer...

*THE FRACTAL DESIGNS DEFINE MINI HAS ENOUGH ROOM FOR AN ASUS GTX570 WITH ITS MASSIVE DirectCU II THAT TAKES UP A WHOPPING 3 SLOTS. D*

Just barely fits (less than a quarter of an inch) but it fits.


----------



## neomech

Hi all,

I'm about to build a new gaming rig using the Fractal R4. I'm going with the non-windowed version so that I'll have the option of a side fan.

I have one question before I finalize my order, which is whether a side fan will fit if I'm using the Hyper 212 Evo? I'm pretty sure others have done this but the FD website makes me worry that a tall heatsink like the Evo would prohibit the use of a side fan (in which case I should be getting a different heat sink, or ordering the windowed version).

Thanks in advance for any replies!


----------



## Techn0

i wonder if arc midi r2 front and top panels fits first arc midi


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Just modded my fractal core 1000 front panel. First time I've ever done something like this. Still waiting for some things before I can finish the build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice. I like it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Col5*
> 
> Worth a read http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/4


*Nice. I like it.*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Here's an Arc Midi R2 video!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neomech*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm about to build a new gaming rig using the Fractal R4. I'm going with the non-windowed version so that I'll have the option of a side fan.
> 
> I have one question before I finalize my order, which is whether a side fan will fit if I'm using the Hyper 212 Evo? I'm pretty sure others have done this but the FD website makes me worry that a tall heatsink like the Evo would prohibit the use of a side fan (in which case I should be getting a different heat sink, or ordering the windowed version).
> 
> Thanks in advance for any replies!


I don't have an air cooling solution, but the side panel sits more in line with where your GPU's would be so clearance for your 212 should not be much of a problem. Maybe someone with a 212 can actually confirm that though...


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Whoa, that looks sick! Do you have a build log?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> how did u measured where to fit the holes?


I don't have a build log! Everytime I build a pc I always end up forgetting then remembering too late.

I bought a 13 7/8 x 5 7/8 piece of 1/8 clear acrylic which fit up to the front perfectly then I just laid the acrylic over the fans. Used a ruler to draw a line from one center of the fan to the other then I got a 4 1/8 hole saw to drill the hole for the acrylic. After that I sprayed it with rustoleum Satin Black which matches the front perfectly in person.

Here is some pictures of it put together. Im just running prime 95 right now to overclock it but the case mod isn't not done yet. I'm still drying the piece of acrylic that hides my drivebay and powersupply that I just spray painted. Also I'm waiting on another piece of acrylic to come in on tuesday so I can mod the side panel for a window mod. Also I'm waiting on some sleeves so I can sleeve my power supply correctly and not use extensions to lessen the wires in the case. This time Im just sleeving them plain black so that I can change the fluid easier in my WC setup and still match lol. This will be my first sleeving so hopefully everything goes as plan and I don't mess anything up


----------



## wilow

HI guys! I've seen realy nice rigs around here and just wanted to show my mods on Arc Midi:


----------



## ivoryg37

looking pretty good! have you tried double stick tape instead of the thumbscrews? Might be even more stealth.

Just realize I put the inlet and outlet wrong for my EK waterblock. Looks like I will have to change that tonight


----------



## S333N

Thanks for all the fan tips folks, much appreciated!









That review with the # of fans is awesome! Going to give that a read.
Quote:


> 1. The amount of venting in your case can have a huge impact on cooling, particularly around the CPU area. If you have fan mounts here that are blocked up, unblock them.
> 
> 2. Generally, all other things being equal, it's better to get hot air out of your case than to pump cool air in, particularly when it comes to CPU cooling.
> 
> 3. If you have a roof mount that's located nearer the front of the case than the CPU cooler, leave it open. Fitting a fan here only causes problems.
> 
> 4. If you have one, two or three fans in your case, the side panel intake mount is the most important. Fill this first, followed by the rear exhaust mount, followed by the roof exhaust mount.
> 
> 5. Bear in mind the fact that fans have an effect on each other and use this to your advantage. For this to work though they need to be close enough to interact - a side intake works better with a rear exhaust than a front intake does for this reason.
> 
> 6. With four or more fans, concentrate on traditional front to back cooling and creating one strong, continuous air flow. Fill the front intakes and the roof and rear exhausts first.
> 
> 7. More fans does mean more cooling, but expect diminishing returns when going above three or four fans.


----------



## Fatality_

Will an H80 in push pull fit in an R4? I am thinking about getting the r4 today and I just want to make sure I can fit my h80 in push pull on the back


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fatality_*
> 
> Will an H80 in push pull fit in an R4? I am thinking about getting the r4 today and I just want to make sure I can fit my h80 in push pull on the back


yep


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fatality_*
> 
> Will an H80 in push pull fit in an R4? I am thinking about getting the r4 today and I just want to make sure I can fit my h80 in push pull on the back


I can try fitting an H80 tonight after work.

I currently have an H100 installed (push only, limitation of the R4's centered mounting) but I have an extra H80 lying around.

I can PM you or post pics.

**EDIT** Kim Jong beat me to it XD


----------



## the petes

*Node 304*

















*Build Log*


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> **EDIT** Kim Jong beat me to it XD











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the petes*
> 
> *Node 304*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Build Log*


sweeeeeet!


----------



## Fatality_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> yep


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I can try fitting an H80 tonight after work.
> 
> I currently have an H100 installed (push only, limitation of the R4's centered mounting) but I have an extra H80 lying around.
> 
> I can PM you or post pics.
> 
> **EDIT** Kim Jong beat me to it XD


Thanks guys!

+rep


----------



## ZeVo

Having a hard time doing the front panel mod on my Midi.

I plan on having it like wilow has it. Cut the material and then put the mesh on it. However, last time I tried I got uneven circles. How should I measure this? I'm very confused..


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I don't have a build log! Everytime I build a pc I always end up forgetting then remembering too late.
> 
> I bought a 13 7/8 x 5 7/8 piece of 1/8 clear acrylic which fit up to the front perfectly then I just laid the acrylic over the fans. Used a ruler to draw a line from one center of the fan to the other then I got a 4 1/8 hole saw to drill the hole for the acrylic. After that I sprayed it with rustoleum Satin Black which matches the front perfectly in person.
> 
> Here is some pictures of it put together. Im just running prime 95 right now to overclock it but the case mod isn't not done yet. I'm still drying the piece of acrylic that hides my drivebay and powersupply that I just spray painted. Also I'm waiting on another piece of acrylic to come in on tuesday so I can mod the side panel for a window mod. Also I'm waiting on some sleeves so I can sleeve my power supply correctly and not use extensions to lessen the wires in the case. This time Im just sleeving them plain black so that I can change the fluid easier in my WC setup and still match lol. This will be my first sleeving so hopefully everything goes as plan and I don't mess anything up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Rotate the CPU block, in should be the closest to the middle.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Having a hard time doing the front panel mod on my Midi.
> 
> I plan on having it like wilow has it. Cut the material and then put the mesh on it. However, last time I tried I got uneven circles. How should I measure this? I'm very confused..


Ah man! That was the hardest part when I did that mod....it was all trial and error.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Rotate the CPU block, in should be the closest to the middle.


Yeah I actually spotted that after posting the picture and fixed it already


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Yeah I actually spotted that after posting the picture and fixed it already











Awesome rig, when my pocket allows it, I'll fit a 280 in the roof









Damned, the MCP35x difference from the MCP355 is PWM? Only that? :|


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome rig, when my pocket allows it, I'll fit a 280 in the roof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damned, the MCP35x difference from the MCP355 is PWM? Only that? :|


I believe so. I personally don't care for PWM when water-cooling. The only PWM fan I have is the rear exhaust in the CPU fan slot lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the petes*
> 
> *Node 304*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Build Log*


Clean looking build. The case reminds me of a subwoofer.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I don't have a build log! Everytime I build a pc I always end up forgetting then remembering too late.
> I bought a 13 7/8 x 5 7/8 piece of 1/8 clear acrylic which fit up to the front perfectly then I just laid the acrylic over the fans. Used a ruler to draw a line from one center of the fan to the other then I got a 4 1/8 hole saw to drill the hole for the acrylic. After that I sprayed it with rustoleum Satin Black which matches the front perfectly in person.
> Here is some pictures of it put together. Im just running prime 95 right now to overclock it but the case mod isn't not done yet. I'm still drying the piece of acrylic that hides my drivebay and powersupply that I just spray painted. Also I'm waiting on another piece of acrylic to come in on tuesday so I can mod the side panel for a window mod. Also I'm waiting on some sleeves so I can sleeve my power supply correctly and not use extensions to lessen the wires in the case. This time Im just sleeving them plain black so that I can change the fluid easier in my WC setup and still match lol. This will be my first sleeving so hopefully everything goes as plan and I don't mess anything up
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


wow, looks really good. I was thinking of watercooling my C1K, but I use it as a server/HTPC.

Made a vertical HDD cage that can mount 3 HDD's.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Clean looking build. The case reminds me of a subwoofer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow, looks really good. I was thinking of watercooling my C1K, but I use it as a server/HTPC.
> 
> Made a vertical HDD cage that can mount 3 HDD's.


This is the exact build I had going on for my brother! I originally had the vulcan but when I was building my bro's C1K I had a 660 in there without two PCIe3.0 slot so the heatsink would touch the back of the GPU so I end up taking his build and throwing it in my vulcan with my z77 extreme4m board so I end up with the C1K and his z77 pro4-m board. Since I already had the water-cool from my original system. I just brought it over


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> This is the exact build I had going on for my brother! I originally had the vulcan but when I was building my bro's C1K I had a 660 in there without two PCIe3.0 slot so the heatsink would touch the back of the GPU so I end up taking his build and throwing it in my vulcan with my z77 extreme4m board so I end up with the C1K and his z77 pro4-m board. Since I already had the water-cool from my original system. I just brought it over


That's one of the reason's I did the HDD mod. I didn't want it hitting the GPU (the 460's I had in there prior to the pic) and I didn't like how it mounted. So now I have a cage that fits 3 HDD's and it's hidden behind the original HDD cage/mount.

Fits 3, but I only have two at the moment.


----------



## Deornoth

*Define Mini* mod in progress!





*Build Log*


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> *Define Mini* mod in progress!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Build Log*


For the love of god remove 5.25" bays. But the idea is just beautifull.

Here's Egameman's arc. Looks just awesome without 5.25" bays

It would look even better in define


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> For the love of god remove 5.25" bays. But the idea is just beautifull.


I would, but I intend to eventually stick something along these lines in the bottom one to hold all my drives internally:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994146

I'm not a big fan of having my drives mounted via sticky tape, or having them external to the case.

I worked hard to ensure that the front fan on the 360 rad has at least 25mm of clearance between it and the bottom installed 5.25" bay component, so I shouldn't have any airflow issues.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> I would, but I intend to eventually stick something along these lines in the bottom one to hold all my drives internally:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994146
> 
> I'm not a big fan of having my drives mounted via sticky tape, or having them external to the case.
> 
> I worked hard to ensure that the front fan on the 360 rad has at least 25mm of clearance between it and the bottom installed 5.25" bay component, so I shouldn't have any airflow issues.


Sry I was confused by the skechup image, and still am. Do you plan to remove hdd bay from the bottom?


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Sry I was confused by the skechup image, and still am. Do you plan to remove hdd bay from the bottom?


No worries, this is a multi-stage, long-term project for me. I plan to eventually remove the bottom hdd rack, but not for this first iteration of the build as I'm limited on my funds at the moment. Feel free to dig into the build log! I'll be open to suggestions or observations at this point, as I'm still early in the life of this project. I'm actively working on grinding down the top radiator mount weld seams between moments of checking the forums here today. I'll be updating more in the log as I go along.


----------



## Eseuldor

Finally had a bit of time last two days to actually put things together and make sure everything works as it's supposed to.

Pictures a bit crappy cause of my camera phone so excuse me for that haha

A couple mods I plan on doing soon would include:

1) Modifying the bottom HDD cage that came with the case in to a shroud of sorts and placing it where the bottom fan is at currently

2) Making some backplates for my GPU's cause that pcb is plug ugly

Lot of other ideas I am kicking around but this will be a work in process for a while as I iron out exactly how I want it to look in the end. Any ideas?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*


*Nice build! Love that H100 in the front.*









Per your request for editions- backplates for cards for sure!.....and.......Carbon Fiber (Di-Noc) that PSU! Lol (see my sig rig)


----------



## marlo

I forgot to post my problem when I got my case 4 weeks ago.

I got the Black Windowed Define R4 for a great price.

Thankfully it didn't come cracked, or damaged, or with any broken cables. However...

The area where the power supply is mounted, there are 2 little raised bumps. One is significantly higher so my power supply is not flush and can only be mounted with one screw. I don't know if they cut the metal wrong or something when making the case.

Did anyone else have this problem?

I am considering returning it for a replacement.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally had a bit of time last two days to actually put things together and make sure everything works as it's supposed to.
> 
> Pictures a bit crappy cause of my camera phone so excuse me for that haha
> 
> A couple mods I plan on doing soon would include:
> 
> 1) Modifying the bottom HDD cage that came with the case in to a shroud of sorts and placing it where the bottom fan is at currently
> 
> 2) Making some backplates for my GPU's cause that pcb is plug ugly
> 
> Lot of other ideas I am kicking around but this will be a work in process for a while as I iron out exactly how I want it to look in the end. Any ideas?


Why are you using your h100i as exhaust? It would be better to use it as intake. It would also blow more air to your gpu.


----------



## frozenwings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Why are you using your h100i as exhaust? It would be better to use it as intake. It would also blow more air to your gpu.


Agree with this guy. From what I see, you have at least 1 intake and 3 exhaust. I'm guessing more exhaust in the top as well. I'd definitely make that h100 intake, or put it on top as exhaust and mount two fans in the front as intake. I doubt that single intake fan on the bottom is good enough to cool your gpus and and that h100.

Edit: I looked again and saw that the back fan is actually an intake fan. Now, I'm not exactly sure how that would work out. You have some crazy reverse airflow thing going on. I would imagine that the h100 would still work best on top with this setup, but I'm guessing that it doesn't fit very well and that's why you had to stick it up front.


----------



## mrrockwell

I use my h100 as intake with 360 mod in the front and only one exhaust fan with great results.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> I use my h100 as intake with 360 mod in the front and only one exhaust fan with great results.


^---- This guy.

More pictures of that awesome build please


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ^---- This guy.
> 
> More pictures of that awesome build please


Here you go








Build log
http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


----------



## looterdevil

Hey guys, I am pretty new to building but now that I am here, I am seeing alot of inspirations.

I have a core 3000 right now, and I was just wondering would it be okay to have sleeved extensions rather than having the PSU fully sleeved?

Judging from the look at the back side of the case it does not have alot of space in it.

Maybe someone has done it before and could share a few thoughts?

thanks for all the help!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


Thank you! Amazing build btw!







.....makes my build feel really sub par lol


----------



## frozenwings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build log
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334774/case-mod-redefine


Window mods looks slick.
Front panel mod is awesome.
Triple rad possible in a mini: priceless.


----------



## mrrockwell

Thanks

Yep it would fit. The case has 397 cm clearance for the rad. I don't have funds for custom loop but it will be done


----------



## rebelextrm02

I finally got around to upgrading my psu to a modular seasonic and setting up my first water cooling loop. I bought my Arc Mini for this exact purpose. I plan to expand the loop the next time I upgrade my gpu, but that will be quite a while. I am ecstatic at how well everything fit in this case. I just need to sleeve my psu cables now. I have 100ft of white 550 cord sitting on my desk begging me to put it on.


----------



## ceaze one

That loop looks great! I love loops with a very short amount of tubing. It will look a whole lot better when you sleeve the cables too









Are you planning on upgrading your fans?


----------



## rebelextrm02

Eventually yes. I'd like to get some pwm fans. My mobo has the ability to set fan speed based on temperature of the cpu using pwm. I'd like some that work well with a low fpi radiator.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> I've been slowly modding my Arc Midi. My last mod was a side panel window, now I'm modding the front panel. I made a replacement panel for where the mesh/honeycomb is, but I'm having a hard time deciding how to cut it for the fans. Here's what it looks like right now (sorry for bad phone pics). Obviously it's not painted yet since I haven't finished cutting it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the black lines on the back side are where the fan lines up with the front. As you can see, it's not perfectly centered. If I cut perfect holes for the fans, the bottom of the sheet will have to be cut pretty close to the bottom, which will be a little tricky to not wreck the sheet. I'm not keen on wrecking it since it was a pain to fab with a nibbler. I'm torn on what would look best. Do I cut out holes, drill holes, cut slits, or do something else I hadn't thought of? Any suggestions would be great.


I know you posted this two weeks ago, but did you ever cut it? I tried doing the same thing except with cardboard and it did not turn out great.


----------



## crsn00

Hey guys,
I've been looking at this forum for a while and planning my first ever build and its been a huge help. It's taken a few months to order and get the parts but I finally completed it yesterday. I'm still not completely satisfied because the top hard drive bay needs to stay in due to a short sata power cable but that will be fixed soon when the extensions I ordered arrive


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've been looking at this forum for a while and planning my first ever build and its been a huge help. It's taken a few months to order and get the parts but I finally completed it yesterday. I'm still not completely satisfied because the top hard drive bay needs to stay in due to a short sata power cable but that will be fixed soon when the extensions I ordered arrive


Very nice rig you got there!


----------



## ad3ath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've been looking at this forum for a while and planning my first ever build and its been a huge help. It's taken a few months to order and get the parts but I finally completed it yesterday. I'm still not completely satisfied because the top hard drive bay needs to stay in due to a short sata power cable but that will be fixed soon when the extensions I ordered arrive


Very very nice! Any in the dark pics? I think that is the LED chain that I want...


----------



## Swiftes

Wanted to get a Midi R2, but they won't be out until late march (spoke to Fractal) so gonna bite the bullet and order a windowed Black Pearl R4 tomorrow, gonna be watercooling, dual 240 rads and some other little mods to it, going for silence and good looks for my Audio Production machine.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've been looking at this forum for a while and planning my first ever build and its been a huge help. It's taken a few months to order and get the parts but I finally completed it yesterday. I'm still not completely satisfied because the top hard drive bay needs to stay in due to a short sata power cable but that will be fixed soon when the extensions I ordered arrive


*Welcome!!!*

Awesome build! Love the colors


----------



## remixedMind

heres my core 1000 build, im planing on doing some sleeving and modding soon ;]


----------



## BlackskyDK

I just arranged my LED strip, so that it lights up the powerbutton aswell.





Sorry for the bad quality, taken with my iPhone


----------



## crsn00

No dark pics yet but I'll try to get some tonight. Not sure how well they'll turn out with my camera though... The white leds came out blueish in the daytime pics.
And the nzxt lights work great! They're pretty bright even on the lowest setting. The only issue is the sleeving tends to cover up the leds a bit but a bit of electrical tape or heat shrink tubing fixes that.


----------



## Bedo

This is a WIP as many of my parts will arrive later this week. I made sure my GPU would fit the other day. The case has excellent build quality. It is very sturdy and does not flex at all when moving it around. I will also be replacing the two front fans with Noctua NF-B9s.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bedo*
> 
> This is a WIP as many of my parts will arrive later this week. I made sure my GPU would fit the other day. The case has excellent build quality. It is very sturdy and does not flex at all when moving it around. I will also be replacing the two front fans with Noctua NF-B9s.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Awesome


Looks really good with that 680








What are the other components you will use?


----------



## anonymous83

just a question. I've purchased a fractal desgin core 3000 case, and I noticed that it have just 1 extension cable to the USB 2.0 ports on the front
is this normal or shoud I contact the point-of-purchase?


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> I just arranged my LED strip, so that it lights up the powerbutton aswell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the bad quality, taken with my iPhone


how did you make the power bottom change color?


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> how did you make the power bottom change color?


I have a NZXT HUE, and i just ran the end of the LED Strip up underneath the powerbutton, and unplugged the normal LED from the motherboard.


----------



## catbuster

Just transfered my rig from core 1k to R4







very happy, but dat thing looks huge comapared to little core 1k









so now i need some silent fans, and silent heatsink/cpu cooler any recomendations? i want it to be whisper quiet, seems intel stock cooler makes most noise right now









edit: typo


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Just transfered my rig from core 1k to R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very happy, but dat thing looks huge comapared to little core 1k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so now i need some silent fans, and silent heatsink/cpu cooler any recomendations? i want it to be whisper quiet, seems intel stock cooler makes most noise right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: typo


even with all the sounddeadening?







Thought this case was quiet?


----------



## CarFreak302

I can only hear my R4 when my GPU is at max fan speed. You must have some crazy loud fans to hear normally.


----------



## Kosire

Just ordered the Fractal Design Define XL R2 to upgrade my R1 with since it was really cheap! They should be in stock on friday.


----------



## BBEG

Stock Intel and AMD coolers are noisy as hell. Sound damping doesn't do a whole lot, really; the Define series is more quiet than most because of its many cooling options and because of its build material, not because of the damping material. Quiet components will get you a lot further toward a quiet system than a case will.

Going along with that, the stock Fractal fans need to go. They're driving me nuts.


----------



## Garming

did anybody else have trouble fitting the xspc res with the d5 var into the dual 5.25 bays?


----------



## the petes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bedo*
> 
> This is a WIP as many of my parts will arrive later this week. I made sure my GPU would fit the other day. The case has excellent build quality. It is very sturdy and does not flex at all when moving it around. I will also be replacing the two front fans with Noctua NF-B9s.


Thats the card i want!!!! Glad to see that it looks freakin amazing in that case.


----------



## the petes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've been looking at this forum for a while and planning my first ever build and its been a huge help. It's taken a few months to order and get the parts but I finally completed it yesterday. I'm still not completely satisfied because the top hard drive bay needs to stay in due to a short sata power cable but that will be fixed soon when the extensions I ordered arrive


MUST HAVE THAT DESK







PLEASE TELL ME WHERE YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## crsn00

Its a cheap target desk that I modded







here's the original desk

http://www.target.com/p/room-essentials-storage-desk-espresso/-/A-12630809#prodSlot=medium_1_29

I just moved the drawer part over, shortened the right wall and added some extra support to the back. very simple and pretty cheap too. I had some old drawer slides laying around which I used to mount a spray painted piece of plywood for the keyboard tray.


----------



## crsn00

Here are some more pictures my R4 in the dark and with the top HDD rack removed


----------



## K4IKEN

Looks great mane!


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Its a cheap target desk that I modded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's the original desk
> 
> http://www.target.com/p/room-essentials-storage-desk-espresso/-/A-12630809#prodSlot=medium_1_29
> 
> I just moved the drawer part over, shortened the right wall and added some extra support to the back. very simple and pretty cheap too. I had some old drawer slides laying around which I used to mount a spray painted piece of plywood for the keyboard tray.


I have the same desk, but with metal handles for the draws. A mouse pad is definitely necessary for me. The paint scratches easily it using a mouse without a mouse pad.


----------



## crsn00

I do have a mouse pad but it's black and probably hard to see on the black keyboard tray. Its definitely a necessity


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> I do have a mouse pad but it's black and probably hard to see on the black keyboard tray. Its definitely a necessity


Man that's a sweet keyboard/mouse tray! It's huge lol...I hate the fact that my keyboard that is in it's sliding tray, is lower than my mouse which is on the top of the desk


----------



## crsn00

Yeah I had that problem before I modded my desk and its annoying! Its quite easy to make another though especially if you already have the slides


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> did anybody else have trouble fitting the xspc res with the d5 var into the dual 5.25 bays?


Sometimes.. You just gotta jiggle it around a little and it'll go in smooth after.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Here are some more pictures my R4 in the dark and with the top HDD rack removed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like dat.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Here are some more pictures my R4 in the dark and with the top HDD rack removed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's my fav pic of the Rig. Looks good man!


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> I just arranged my LED strip, so that it lights up the powerbutton aswell.
> 
> Sorry for the bad quality, taken with my iPhone


how did you do that?


----------



## BlackskyDK

In the top of the case, there is a hole, where the front panel connectors go down. i just fed the end of the LED strip in through that same hole, and made sure that i lit up towards the powerbutton, and then i disconnected the powerbutton from the motherboards.

I have the NEXT HUE, which allows me to change the color of the lights =)


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Having a hard time doing the front panel mod on my Midi.
> 
> I plan on having it like wilow has it. Cut the material and then put the mesh on it. However, last time I tried I got uneven circles. How should I measure this? I'm very confused..


I used a utility knife inline with the frame of the fans to cut a circle behind. Not sure if I'm being clear.


----------



## [email protected]

****Rig Update*** (pics coming this weekend)*

I plan on ordering a Gigabyte Sniper 3 G1 mobo this week (to give my 680 DCII's a bit more breathing room)

Anyone know of any issues fitting an E-ATX board into a Define R4?


Furthermore, the MOSFIT heat-sinks seem a bit tall, anyone run into issues with tall heat-sinks and H100 mounting?

(I can always switch to an H80 or a tower cooler if it won't fit......I have a TON of other cpu coolers lying around lol)

Any input would be outstanding


----------



## adridu59

Pretty much the best motherboard you can get, congrats!


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ****Rig Update*** (pics coming this weekend)*
> 
> I plan on ordering a Gigabyte Sniper 3 G1 mobo this week (to give my 680 DCII's a bit more breathing room)
> 
> Anyone know of any issues fitting an E-ATX board into a Define R4?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Furthermore, the MOSFIT heat-sinks seem a bit tall, anyone run into issues with tall heat-sinks and H100 mounting?
> 
> (I can always switch to an H80 or a tower cooler if it won't fit......I have a TON of other cpu coolers lying around lol)
> 
> Any input would be outstanding


Rich guy over here







. So are you gonna switch to a green/black theme? Looking forward to seeing how your rig turns out


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ****Rig Update*** (pics coming this weekend)*
> 
> I plan on ordering a Gigabyte Sniper 3 G1 mobo this week (to give my 680 DCII's a bit more breathing room)
> 
> Anyone know of any issues fitting an E-ATX board into a Define R4?


I have an Asus Maximus V Formula in my R4 and it fits really well. It blocks the right cable management holes a bit but they're still usable. The Asus board is 12x10.1 which is only a tiny bit smaller than the gigabyte Sniper which is 12x10.39


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I used a utility knife inline with the frame of the fans to cut a circle behind. Not sure if I'm being clear.


Yeah, I understand you. But when you drew your circles on the material you used, did you actually mount the fans on the front panel and draw the outline from that?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Rich guy over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So are you gonna switch to a green/black theme? Looking forward to seeing how your rig turns out











I'm hoping that after I get everything placed back in the rig, you won't really notice the green... (or maybe I can at least paint the accents on the MOSFIT heat-sinks?)
Along with my update, I have removed all the red NZXT fans, and swapped them out for Corsair SP and AF series fans (using the white rings) for a simple black/white theme.

Only concern at this point will be keeping the H100 at the top of the case. It's already a tight fit with my current board, and I have the feeling that I will have to switch to an H80 or a tower cooler (I think I have a few 212+'s, a V6 GT and a V8 in a box somewhere....as well as an H80 and one of the AIO's from Antec.....hmmmm I think I have too much computer junk XD)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> I have an Asus Maximus V Formula in my R4 and it fits really well. It blocks the right cable management holes a bit but they're still usable. The Asus board is 12x10.1 which is only a tiny bit smaller than the gigabyte Sniper which is 12x10.39


Thank you! Looking at the spec, it seemed ok, but if you have had no issues I feel MUCH better







+rep


----------



## neal0790

Hey guys i have a fractal r4 (white w/window version) coming friday. Im planning to use some left over parts from my main rig that ive upgraded to build a gaming/entertainment pc for my living room. This is what i plan on putting in it. i5 2500k cpu, hyper 212 cool, 8gb Kingston Hyperx 1600 Ram, Asus z68 pro-v gen 3 mobo, corsair 750w psu, seagate 500gb HDD + 64GB Crucial m4 and im going to take a evga gtx 670 SC 4GB card out of my main rig since im running 3way sli in there.

I know the r4 comes with 2 fans already, but im not sure how many i should add. I want the case to run cool but i also want to preserve as much of the quietness as i can. Was looking at buying a few 140mm corsair quite series fans or some more of the stock fractal fans but not sure which one to choose. I want to take the top HDD cage out for better airflow and just put the HDD and SSD in the bottom cages.

Was thinking of putting 1 in the back and 1 in the top back for exaust . Then 1 in the top front, and 1 in the bottom next to the psu for a total of 4. But dont know if taking off the sound damping material on top will let off to much noise. Also how well do the fans do with bringing in air with the front door close though the side vents? Not used to cases that have the front blocked off like that. Thanks


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ****Rig Update*** (pics coming this weekend)*
> 
> I plan on ordering a Gigabyte Sniper 3 G1 mobo this week (to give my 680 DCII's a bit more breathing room)
> 
> Anyone know of any issues fitting an E-ATX board into a Define R4?


I just checked the measurements compared to my v formula and the extra 0.29 inches are going to cover up pretty much all of the cable management holes on the right side. You'd easily be able to route them around the side of the motherboard tray but I don't think you'll be able to get any through without them putting some pressure on the motherboard.

sorry for the sideways picture... idk how to rotate it


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neal0790*
> 
> Was looking at buying a few 140mm corsair quite series fans or some more of the stock fractal fans but not sure which one to choose. I want to take the top HDD cage out for better airflow and just put the HDD and SSD in the bottom cages.
> 
> Was thinking of putting 1 in the back and 1 in the top back for exaust . Then 1 in the top front, and 1 in the bottom next to the psu for a total of 4. But dont know if taking off the sound damping material on top will let off to much noise. Also how well do the fans do with bringing in air with the front door close though the side vents? Not used to cases that have the front blocked off like that. Thanks


The 140mm corsair quiet series is a very good fan it blows a lot of air and I can barely hear it even on 100%. In my opinion the bottom fan as an intake helps more than the front but the front does very well itself. I haven't used my R4 with the damping material on but I don't think a single AF140 would make too much noise especially if you hook it up to the front fan control and turn down the speed a bit


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> I just checked the measurements compared to my v formula and the extra 0.29 inches are going to cover up pretty much all of the cable management holes on the right side. You'd easily be able to route them around the side of the motherboard tray but I don't think you'll be able to get any through without them putting some pressure on the motherboard.
> 
> sorry for the sideways picture... idk how to rotate it


Thanks for the pic! Yeah, I figured I would have to route everything behind the tray, no biggie.

Do you like that Dark Knight cooler? I have a few 212+'s, but I've had clearance issues with a lot of boards using RAM with tall heat-sinks (and using a standard 25mm thick fan on the front).....

Would you be able to measure the width of the fins on that cooler? (just planning for the worst-case scenario of the H100 not fitting...) If it matches the dimensions of a 212, I could always use that (or an H80) *sigh* Lol.


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Do you like that Dark Knight cooler? I have a few 212+'s, but I've had clearance issues with a lot of boards using RAM with tall heat-sinks (and using a standard 25mm thick fan on the front).....


So far its been doing its job







the cpu stays around 35C when gaming. with the corsair fan on the front I wouldn't be able to install 4 dimms of ram the cooler+fan is too wide but I only need the 8gb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Would you be able to measure the width of the fins on that cooler? (just planning for the worst-case scenario of the H100 not fitting...) If it matches the dimensions of a 212, I could always use that (or an H80) *sigh* Lol.


at the widest part (where the fans mount) its 2 inches wide, 2.25 if you include the rubber nubs used to mount the fans


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> ... I wouldn't be able to install 4 dimms of ram the cooler+fan is too wide but I only need the 8gb...


I has a sad. (4x 4GB DIMMS) Looks like H80 will be the back-up *crosses fingers for the H100 fitting*


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I has a sad. (4x 4GB DIMMS) Looks like H80 will be the back-up *crosses fingers for the H100 fitting*


The mounts provided with the dark knight II are these rubber nubs which space the fans out about 1/10 of an inch and with my motherboard if you mounted the fan flush with zip ties or something then I think 4 DIMMS could fit. As its mounted right now I could probably shove 4 DIMMS in there but the 4th one would be touching the fan. with the fan mounted flush I believe a 4th DIMM could fit without touching.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> The mounts provided with the dark knight II are these rubber nubs which space the fans out about 1/10 of an inch and with my motherboard if you mounted the fan flush with zip ties or something then I think 4 DIMMS could fit. As its mounted right now I could probably shove 4 DIMMS in there but the 4th one would be touching the fan. with the fan mounted flush I believe a 4th DIMM could fit without touching.


Thank so much for looking into this for me!









Guess I'll have a better idea when I get the board (gonna bite the bullet and order it tonight or tomorrow morning).

Will post pics as soon as I get it!


----------



## BBEG

I'm really thinking I need a windowed side for the R4. I'd be adding a fan holes to it, but now I wanna see inside the rig.

Damn you people posting pics of windowed cases...


----------



## Airrick10

So I'm getting my windowed side panel for my arc midi delivered this Thursday and I'm wondering what kind of lights I should order for my case. Here are the 2 options I'm considering:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812551004

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812170028

which one would be best?


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> So I'm getting my windowed side panel for my arc midi delivered this Thursday and I'm wondering what kind of lights I should order for my case.
> which one would be best?


I have the nzxt leds, a white and a red and they look great! they're really easy to set up so they light the things you want and they're pretty bright. They come with small clips that you stick on to your case to hold them in place. The 1 meter long one was long enough for me since I got two of them but they also sell a 2 meter long version. Check out the pictures of my rig in my signature if you want to see what they look like.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> I have the nzxt leds, a white and a red and they look great! they're really easy to set up so they light the things you want and they're pretty bright. They come with small clips that you stick on to your case to hold them in place. The 1 meter long one was long enough for me since I got two of them but they also sell a 2 meter long version. Check out the pictures of my rig in my signature if you want to see what they look like.


Thanks! Yeah I've seen your pics and it looks great! I might go with the those led lights since it already has the on/off switch and the brightness adjuster.









Edit: Well I just ordered the 2 meter NZXT led strip! Thanks once again!


----------



## Swiftes

Just ordered my R4 Titanium with Window, £88.00 here in the UK, bargain







will get the build log up as parts arrive!


----------



## dioxholster

i just got the R4 case, looks nice except for one thing, both fans are dirty! they have dust on them and the white fans themselves have dark dust stuck on them as though it was sitting in the rain. The rest of the case is clean though. Is that a reason for complaint? Also what other silent fans or whatever could i get?


----------



## GasMan320

Guys I have a Fractal Design Define R4 and am having issues trying to install a motherboard in it.

I have the board perfectly matched with the standoffs however if I try to put the I/O Shield on and then try to line up the board, it doesn't fit.

The issue seems to be there not being any gap between the board's audio jacks and the case cutout on the left side.

In this pic if you look at the left side where the audio jacks are it seems that there is no way there can be space for an I/O shield to fit in there.

Can anyone show me a picture of their I/O shield and board fitting in this case for comparison?

here's my image:


http://imgur.com/DPCjcaf


P.S. I did check my standoff locations and everything is properly set.


----------



## faintember

First of all, awesome thread with some great mods!

Looking at the Midi R2 and the easily removable front panel/filter, I started to wonder if something similar was possible on the current Midi. After looking around I never came across anything (please correct me if someone has already done something similar).

My initial idea was to remove the front mesh and leave the tabs straightened, then use magnets to hold the panel to the case. Depending on the magnet and the filter material I may have to cut some holes in the filter so the magnets can make contact with the mesh. If a pantyhose filter was used (probably with a rectangular DIY frame inside of it) the magnets would probably hold to the front mesh fine. So a circular magnet in each corner of the front panel fan area. To make removing the mesh easier some black thread could be tied in an inconspicuous area of the mesh.

The other idea I had was to use magnetic touch latches (like the ones on some entertainment centers). Of course this sounded like a great plan, until I realized there was no room for them in the corners (unless you want to cut the corners off your fans).







The only "easy" place I see for them to go would be the center bar that separates the fans. This would make the operation pretty close to the R2.

I found a pic on the internet of the front panel with the mesh/filter off, and used that to mock up my design.


magnetic touch latch:


If the idea is solid I still need to figure out the best glue to attach the magnets with (I did find some with adhesive on the back already), and to make sure that magnets so close to the HDD area would be a good idea. Any ideas or am I asking for more trouble than it's worth?

Also does anyone know how to remove a "bubble" in the mesh on the top panel? Mine was always a bit bubbled, but it either has gotten worse or it is annoying me more as time passes!


----------



## adridu59

^ Why do you want to do all this? It isn't fine in it's current state already?


----------



## faintember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> ^ Why do you want to do all this? It isn't fine in it's current state already?


Because I have lots of trouble with dust in my house via the businesses in the surrounding area, thus dust rings are a constant issue. Over time it seems that I cant get the filter to look clean, even with repeated cleanings with compressed air.


----------



## Sparocool

Has any one put a maximus IV extreme z in an R3 before??


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GasMan320*
> 
> Guys I have a Fractal Design Define R4 and am having issues trying to install a motherboard in it.
> 
> I have the board perfectly matched with the standoffs however if I try to put the I/O Shield on and then try to line up the board, it doesn't fit.
> 
> The issue seems to be there not being any gap between the board's audio jacks and the case cutout on the left side.
> 
> In this pic if you look at the left side where the audio jacks are it seems that there is no way there can be space for an I/O shield to fit in there.
> 
> Can anyone show me a picture of their I/O shield and board fitting in this case for comparison?
> 
> here's my image:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/DPCjcaf
> 
> 
> P.S. I did check my standoff locations and everything is properly set.


I don't (yet) have a Fractal Design case - but I'd like to know which motherboard you're having this issue with?

I did look at your image - seems very odd!


----------



## Sparocool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GasMan320*
> 
> Guys I have a Fractal Design Define R4 and am having issues trying to install a motherboard in it.
> 
> I have the board perfectly matched with the standoffs however if I try to put the I/O Shield on and then try to line up the board, it doesn't fit.
> 
> The issue seems to be there not being any gap between the board's audio jacks and the case cutout on the left side.
> 
> In this pic if you look at the left side where the audio jacks are it seems that there is no way there can be space for an I/O shield to fit in there.
> 
> Can anyone show me a picture of their I/O shield and board fitting in this case for comparison?
> 
> here's my image:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/DPCjcaf
> 
> 
> P.S. I did check my standoff locations and everything is properly set.


You may have a faulty mobo if its a cheap make or model.... If you look on the board there should be lines on the board to mark where things are meant to be see if this is the case


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faintember*
> 
> First of all, awesome thread with some great mods!
> 
> Looking at the Midi R2 and the easily removable front panel/filter, I started to wonder if something similar was possible on the current Midi. After looking around I never came across anything (please correct me if someone has already done something similar).
> 
> My initial idea was to remove the front mesh and leave the tabs straightened, then use magnets to hold the panel to the case. Depending on the magnet and the filter material I may have to cut some holes in the filter so the magnets can make contact with the mesh. If a pantyhose filter was used (probably with a rectangular DIY frame inside of it) the magnets would probably hold to the front mesh fine. So a circular magnet in each corner of the front panel fan area. To make removing the mesh easier some black thread could be tied in an inconspicuous area of the mesh.
> 
> The other idea I had was to use magnetic touch latches (like the ones on some entertainment centers). Of course this sounded like a great plan, until I realized there was no room for them in the corners (unless you want to cut the corners off your fans).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only "easy" place I see for them to go would be the center bar that separates the fans. This would make the operation pretty close to the R2.
> 
> I found a pic on the internet of the front panel with the mesh/filter off, and used that to mock up my design.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> magnetic touch latch:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the idea is solid I still need to figure out the best glue to attach the magnets with (I did find some with adhesive on the back already), and to make sure that magnets so close to the HDD area would be a good idea. Any ideas or am I asking for more trouble than it's worth?
> 
> Also does anyone know how to remove a "bubble" in the mesh on the top panel? Mine was always a bit bubbled, but it either has gotten worse or it is annoying me more as time passes!


Looks interesting.

I´ve got a simular Problem with dust in my house (students and cats







)

So I´ve remioved the regular dustfilter and replaced it with two Silverstone FF141 fan-filter Link




Spoiler: Picture from the front







It works quiet well and WITHOUT DUST-RINGS!

I would be still interested in what you will do.


----------



## ervhamzz213

guys. i would like to ask if this build would be sexy on a fractal define r4 black.?? im changing my case and i need suggestions... a black case...


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Got an Arc Mini for my work PC. Great little case! Would have used a VenX (it fits!) but the motherboard wouldn't allow it.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Got an Arc Mini for my work PC. Great little case! Would have used a VenX (it fits!) but the motherboard wouldn't allow it.


Looks nice and tidy








But please get rid of this boxed-cooler









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> guys. i would like to ask if this build would be sexy on a fractal define r4 black.?? im changing my case and i need suggestions... a black case...


Yeah man get the windowed one and it will look that sexy with White / black / purple.
BTW I like the way, you´ve mounted your ssd!


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Looks nice and tidy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But please get rid of this boxed-cooler


Motherboard capacitor location is what is stopping me, sadly.









It's fine for work use though, and even in minecraft/heavy PhotoShop it only gets up to 43C max as the case has good airflow. Really need another 8GB of RAM though, be ordering that soon.

Makes me want a new case for my home PC. Getting the upgrade itch.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Motherboard capacitor location is what is stopping me, sadly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's fine for work use though, and even in minecraft/heavy PhotoShop it only gets up to 43C max as the case has good airflow. Really need another 8GB of RAM though, be ordering that soon.
> 
> Makes me want a new case for my home PC. Getting the upgrade itch.


Sad story bro.

I know what you mean.... Upgrading cases is addicting.









BTW nice temps with the boxed-cooler


----------



## TSXmike

anyone mod their arc mini or define mini to fit a 120.3 up top?


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Looks nice and tidy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But please get rid of this boxed-cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah man get the windowed one and it will look that sexy with White / black / purple.
> BTW I like the way, you´ve mounted your ssd!


thanks for the compliment







i hate my ssd.. i want an ocz vertex, my intel doesnt match my colour scheme.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> anyone mod their arc mini or define mini to fit a 120.3 up top?


Sorry I have not the exact quote on this but someone here made it, by Drilling out the 5,25 bays.




Spoiler: More Pics








Also mrrockwell did a mod to fit a 360mm rad into a Define Mini´s front.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Build-log here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> thanks for the compliment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i hate my ssd.. i want an ocz vertex, my intel doesnt match my colour scheme.


You can send me yours, when you have your vertex


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Sorry I have not the exact quote on this but someone here made it, by Drilling out the 5,25 bays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also mrrockwell did a mod to fit a 360mm rad into a Define Mini´s front.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Build-log here.


oh nice! thanks.

was planning on drilling out the 5.25 bays since they are not used. nice to get a feel about how the loop will look.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> oh nice! thanks.
> 
> was planning on drilling out the 5.25 bays since they are not used. nice to get a feel about how the loop will look.


almost all mini atx and atx case would fit 360mm radiators if you remove the hdd cage and top bays. the only problem is the thickness of the rad if u want a push pull build.


----------



## Techn0

do u think the front and upper panel's from arc r2 would fit a arc r1?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techn0*
> 
> do u think the front and upper panel's from arc r2 would fit a arc r1?


I think it will fit, because it is the same chassis.
But we will have to wait until someone makes pics with the front off.


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I think it will fit, because it is the same chassis.
> But we will have to wait until someone makes pics with the front off.


yep..i really like it's tool-les fan instalation and thinner holes on front panel and top panel, its so sexy


----------



## dioxholster

for r4 which is best way to set up HDD cages? for one sdd and HDD


----------



## [email protected]

***Updates***

Got my new G1 Sniper 3 this morning via FedEx







(Figured I would try to install everything before work...)

Sorry for the poor quality pictures (taken with my phone)



I would say I'm very happy...but I'm havin a teeny, tiny, little issue of the "...my system won't boot into Windows..." kind









http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/940#post_19184521

So yeah......looks nice anyway XD


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> for r4 which is best way to set up HDD cages? for one sdd and HDD


Doesn't the R4 have two SSD mounts on the back of the mobo tray? If it does, but one there and put the HDD in the 5.25 bay. You don't need the cages unless you have more than that.


----------



## faintember

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Looks interesting.
> 
> I´ve got a simular Problem with dust in my house (students and cats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> So I´ve remioved the regular dustfilter and replaced it with two Silverstone FF141 fan-filter Link
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture from the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It works quiet well and WITHOUT DUST-RINGS!
> 
> I would be still interested in what you will do.


Thanks for the post and the high res images!

How do you have the Silverstone Filter attached? Just magnetically to the wire mesh? Being the cheapskate I am they seem quite pricey but I am glad they work well for you and they might end up being an option for me.

I've totally disassembled my front and top panel and my magnetic touch latch idea will not work as there is just not enough room between the two fans in the middle (much less anywhere else). Unless these type of latches are made in much, much smaller sizes I doubt it can work (and then the issue would most likely be an inadequate magnet).

I did pick up some circular magnets and they kind of hold the mesh in place but I think I was too conservative on the magnet strength. I am going to try some more fitment of them tonight as well as a pantyhose/cutout idea that could work well for a filter but would still leave me wanting in the "easily serviceable/Midi R2-esce" way.

Will update.


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> guys. i would like to ask if this build would be sexy on a fractal define r4 black.?? im changing my case and i need suggestions... a black case...


i have one and it will look extra dope with does white accents!!!


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Doesn't the R4 have two SSD mounts on the back of the mobo tray? If it does, but one there and put the HDD in the 5.25 bay. You don't need the cages unless you have more than that.


I dont know why I haven't thought of that. but how will HDD fit in that bay? with screws? it's not gonna be easy to swap.


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ***Updates***
> 
> Got my new G1 Sniper 3 this morning via FedEx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Figured I would try to install everything before work...)
> 
> Sorry for the poor quality pictures (taken with my phone)


Your motherboard didn't cover as much of the cable management holes as I expected







I'm glad everything fit alright even your H100!. Good luck getting windows fixed


----------



## frozenwings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> I dont know why I haven't thought of that. but how will HDD fit in that bay? with screws? it's not gonna be easy to swap.


You usually need some sort of adapter to fit a 3.5 hdd into a 5.25 bay. Some cases come with one. You can buy some metal mounting brackets for around 5 bucks. Or you can spend a bit more on some fancy bay device. You can also rig some mounting thing up from scratch too if you're clever.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Your motherboard didn't cover as much of the cable management holes as I expected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad everything fit alright even your H100!. Good luck getting windows fixed


Yeah, I'm almost 90% sure (and won't be able to try it out til I get home later tonight) that it's due to the simple fact that I changed chipsets (P67 --> Z77) and didn't re-install Windows.

I know there are driver workarounds, but a re-install on my OS boot drive will be faster









On a side note, I cheated with the H100 mounting. I offset the radiator by aligning it with the 140mm mounting holes and using washers to mount the remaining points in the hex-mesh cutouts XD
You can't even really tell unless I pointed it out. (High quality pics coming this weekend)


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> I dont know why I haven't thought of that. but how will HDD fit in that bay? with screws? it's not gonna be easy to swap.


There should already be a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter in the 5.25 bay. It was for my Midi. But if it isn't, you could buy one:

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g43/c12/s852/list/p1/Case_Parts-OEM-Misc_Case_Parts-35_HDD_Adapters-Page1.html

Looks a lot cleaner without the extra cages in there. Plus it could help temps by a couple of degrees!


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> I dont know why I haven't thought of that. but how will HDD fit in that bay? with screws? it's not gonna be easy to swap.


for example (hot swap)
http://www.sunsky-online.com/product/default!view.do?subject.id=249411


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> I dont know why I haven't thought of that. but how will HDD fit in that bay? with screws? it's not gonna be easy to swap.


Icy Dock.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> for example (hot swap)
> http://www.sunsky-online.com/product/default!view.do?subject.id=249411


You can do it, obviously, but you would need top pop out the 5,25-bay-covers, that wouldn´t fit the look of the case IMO.
But it´s yours








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ***Updates***
> 
> Got my new G1 Sniper 3 this morning via FedEx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Figured I would try to install everything before work...)
> 
> Sorry for the poor quality pictures (taken with my phone)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say I'm very happy...but I'm havin a teeny, tiny, little issue of the "...my system won't boot into Windows..." kind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/940#post_19184521
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah......looks nice anyway XD


You said everything Looks nice anyway, nevermind the phone pics









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faintember*
> 
> Thanks for the post and the high res images!
> 
> How do you have the Silverstone Filter attached? Just magnetically to the wire mesh? Being the cheapskate I am they seem quite pricey but I am glad they work well for you and they might end up being an option for me.
> 
> I've totally disassembled my front and top panel and my magnetic touch latch idea will not work as there is just not enough room between the two fans in the middle (much less anywhere else). Unless these type of latches are made in much, much smaller sizes I doubt it can work (and then the issue would most likely be an inadequate magnet).
> 
> I did pick up some circular magnets and they kind of hold the mesh in place but I think I was too conservative on the magnet strength. I am going to try some more fitment of them tonight as well as a pantyhose/cutout idea that could work well for a filter but would still leave me wanting in the "easily serviceable/Midi R2-esce" way.
> 
> Will update.


Just Lumia 800 pics









I´ve just attached it inbetween the fan and the front mesh / plstic. I would suggest you to use them, if you can´t find a way to work out your idea.

Hope the circular magnets will do the job.








Like Techn0 said it will be interesting if the R1´s front is exchangeable with the one of he R2, than I think than Fractal will make it somehow possible to sell them seperatly.


----------



## HiCZoK

guys?
Any recommended cooler for 2500k inside fractal 3000 case ?

Would h100/h60, Macho or arctic 13 pro fit?

I am mostly set for Macho hr02 or nzxt havik 140.

I've noticed there are two versions of mahco. Which one I want? macho black and white is bigger and is 162 at max point. Would this fit ?


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> guys?
> Any recommended cooler for 2500k inside fractal 3000 case ?
> 
> Would h100/h60, Macho or arctic 13 pro fit?


I have an _old_ Macho (with the TY-140 fan) inside an Arc Midi and it fits, even with a side panel fan (stock fractal), but it's really the maximum you can squeeze out.
Don't know if it helps you .. maybe you can compare the specs clearance of the midi to the one of the 3000 ...

MaX.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> On a side note, I cheated with the H100 mounting. I offset the radiator by aligning it with the 140mm mounting holes and using washers to mount the remaining points in the hex-mesh cutouts XD


This is what I recommend to everyone saying that a 240mm radiator can't fit in the top of the R4. You don't necessarily need the proper mounting holes when you have all those mesh cutouts in the top of the case.

Your build looks awesome by the way.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Your build looks awesome by the way.


Thank you!

Good news!.....format + re-install + new drivers = working machine.

Going through the fun process of re-installing everything as I write this post (go ahead and laugh, I have failed to make backups since I went to an SSD for my boot drive







)

At least I have my games and most of my programs on my storage drive


----------



## K4IKEN

Been working on some cable management while my rig is down. Just got an upgraded replacement card from Sapphire RMA (Woohoo!!







) and getting the Seasonic X750 soon..


----------



## ivoryg37

Does anyone know if a 240 rad will fit on top in a Fractal Core 3000? I don't want to buy it if it doesn't fit on top


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Does anyone know if a 240 rad will fit on top in a Fractal Core 3000? I don't want to buy it if it doesn't fit on top


probably a bad choice of words, because you can fit any radiator on top of the case. So i will assume you mean on inside, on the top panel. Then you would have ask the question of what radiator? because they come in all different heights and physical size, based on end tank construction. Then there is also barb location.

Then it also the question as to what motherboard you will use, because some have tall heatsinks which may interfere with radiator mounting.

If you want a sure fit, then the Core 3000 is not ideal, to many factors. The Arc Midi expands those options with offset mounting and sure support for various 240 radiators.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Been working on some cable management while my rig is down. Just got an upgraded replacement card from Sapphire RMA (Woohoo!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and getting the Seasonic X750 soon..


That looks extremely tidy!


----------



## K4IKEN

Thanks mane.. Check out my build log for a lot more pictures and updates to the build. Link is in the sig.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Thanks mane.. Check out my build log for a lot more pictures and updates to the build. Link is in the sig.


Searched through your profile, when you originally posted the Picture and were a Little disappointed that there is no build log








Subscribed to it


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> probably a bad choice of words, because you can fit any radiator on top of the case. So i will assume you mean on inside, on the top panel. Then you would have ask the question of what radiator? because they come in all different heights and physical size, based on end tank construction. Then there is also barb location.
> 
> Then it also the question as to what motherboard you will use, because some have tall heatsinks which may interfere with radiator mounting.
> 
> If you want a sure fit, then the Core 3000 is not ideal, to many factors. The Arc Midi expands those options with offset mounting and sure support for various 240 radiators.


Yeah, I meant internally. Reading over it again I now see that I should have worded it better. I'm thinking of upgrading my build from a C1K to the Core 3000 but not sure if everything will fit. I have an RS240 rad but now that I'm really looking at it I don't think it would fit on the top internally due to my ram water block as well


----------



## lordhinton

heres my new toy










that cooler "just" fits against the side fan!


----------



## Airrick10

I just got my windowed side panel delivered for my arc midi!!! I'll post pics later on when I get my led light strip and get everything set up!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I just got my windowed side panel delivered for my arc midi!!! I'll post pics later on when I get my led light strip and get everything set up!


This will suit your rig








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> heres my new toy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that cooler "just" fits against the side fan!


PLEASE give it a clean.








After building a lot of Systems in the Core 1K I just can say that it is a very good case for its price.
Well done Fractal


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I just got my windowed side panel delivered for my arc midi!!! I'll post pics later on when I get my led light strip and get everything set up!


Looking forward to it. I love the look of the Phanteks in your build. Everything just matches so well..


----------



## lordhinton

nothings dirty apart from the cpu cooler, unless thats what you mean







i have owned the case for liturley 4 hours


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> nothings dirty apart from the cpu cooler, unless thats what you mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have owned the case for liturley 4 hours


Yeah that thing has a meeting with the hoover.

Pretty clean build (not the cooler







) for that short time.


----------



## lordhinton

hoover meet it is!, when i can get off this computer ¬_¬


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Looking forward to it. I love the look of the Phanteks in your build. Everything just matches so well..


Thanks man! Yeah I currently have the Kraken X60 instead of the phanteks...but I'm thinking of delidding tonight or this weekend and I'm gonna give the phanteks a go and see if the temps are good cuz it's a bit quieter.


----------



## K4IKEN

Be careful with the de-lid! Let us know how it goes and post some temps, and if you ever get tired of the Phanteks and want to sell it.. I'm buying.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Be careful with the de-lid! Let us know how it goes and post some temps, and if you ever get tired of the Phanteks and want to sell it.. I'm buying.


Thanks! Yeah I'll post some stuff up...kinda nervous about doing it though lol. I think I'll still keep my Phanteks...looks beast!


----------



## airdeano

i used the phanteks 14tc (white) and wasn't really impressed over the D14. yeah many bark its better
but i hadn't seen the hub-bub.. other than the color co-ordination , meah..

airdeano


----------



## BlackskyDK

Man. I just finished taking out the HDD bay, and hiding my HDD away at the optical drive. What a horrible nightmare to do, when i don't have a modular power supply, and have to hide all the cables on the back, when i used to hide most of them behind my HDD bay.



Heres a picture of the result. Had to put my SSD somewhere, so I stuck it to the back =)


----------



## ebduncan

I am doing some mods tomorrow to my Arc Midi. Pics to come.

What is planed? - mounting my SSD's to the back of the motherboard Tray, and removal of the lower front drive cage. Mounting my Hard-drives in one of my open 5.25 bays.
-Then some serious re management of wires to be super neat.

pictures to come.


----------



## ZeVo

Good job! Basic mods but it will look a lot neater and hopefully get some better temps!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Good job! Basic mods but it will look a lot neater and hopefully get some better temps!


yes, but they are the start of something more. The lower hard-drive cage is being removed, so i can fit a 280mm radiator in the front, in addition to my 240.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> yes, but they are the start of something more. The lower hard-drive cage is being removed, so i can fit a 280mm radiator in the front, in addition to my 240.


Nice. I love seeing pictures of anything water cooling related in FD cases.


----------



## BlackskyDK

Phew. This took quite a while to get done D= Had to make a DIY mounting thingy for my HDD to sit in my optical drive bay =)


----------



## ervhamzz213

guys!!! r4 or core 3000??? and why...


----------



## Monomyth

Sweet, joining my first club. So far I've cut down a couple of fan retention tabs on the front plate of my Arc Mini to jam in a thick high-CFM fan where the removable HDD cage used to be. Someday I'll saw off the second HDD cage and move my HDD+SSD up to the optical bays, so I can jam the second thick fan in on the botton.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> guys!!! r4 or core 3000??? and why...


I like the Core 3000 personally because it's compact and cheap. Only downside is that cable management will be a bit hard if you have a non-modular PSU that has a lot of cables (like mine).

The AX I see in your sig will be fine for it.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> heres my new toy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that cooler "just" fits against the side fan!


Love the C1K case. Nice build!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> Phew. This took quite a while to get done D= Had to make a DIY mounting thingy for my HDD to sit in my optical drive bay =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really clean looking. Why not mount the SSD behind the mobo tray?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> guys!!! r4 or core 3000??? and why...


It depends on what you want.
If you want a silent-optimised-case, with much space behind the motherboardtray and the ability to mount a 240mm radiator in the front, just by moving the drive cages, than go with the R4.
If you want a smaller case, with less space behind the mobo but still with good aircooling features at a good pricepoint, than go with the Core 3K.


Spoiler: What you get with an Arc Midi



If you want a more "premium" case with really good airflow, emense space behind the motherboard-tray and the posibillity for heavy watercooling (with the R2 there is NO modding needed to fit a 240mm rad + a 280 rad even the massive ones like the alphacool fullcopper ), than go with the ARC.


But in the end you should decide by looks, take the one that looks better in your oppinion. You will be fine with either of these cases.









EDIT : Sorry for misunderstanding.


----------



## adridu59

^ Airflow isn't worse on the 3000 compared to the Arc Midi (I've built systems on both cases).


----------



## BBEG

An R4 shouldn't be able to fit a 280 rad anywhere without modding...


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Love the C1K case. Nice build!
> Really clean looking. Why not mount the SSD behind the mobo tray?


Because i didn't want to take off the motherboard, and I actually want to be able to see the SSD


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> An R4 shouldn't be able to fit a 280 rad anywhere without modding...


Sorry guys I´ve read the wrong: Thought "Arc Midi vs. Core 3K"








Edited the post from my phone. Hope now it is okay.


----------



## mshaddix

I appologize for the crappy iPhone picture.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mshaddix*
> 
> I appologize for the crappy iPhone picture.


How do you like that G-550? I could save myself some cash by looking at that for my next PSU.


----------



## mshaddix

I really like it. Its more than enough for my rig but the cables are kind of short for the fractal design. I had to turn it upside down to get the 8pin power cable to reach. The only thing I don't really like about it are the molex connectors. They feel cheap and don't line up well with the R4's fan controller, or any other molex connector I've tried. But other than that, it's a solid PSU.


----------



## K4IKEN

Its most likely not the PSU causing the molex connection problem, its just molex in general. I absolutely hate molex connectors and wish they were gone. My psu had a problem with any molex I tried to hook up to it. If they don't line up perfectly expect the pins being pushed out of the connector. I cant stand it!









/rant

Good to hear that you like it though, and it should be plenty of power for my system. Even with a new 8350.


----------



## boomski

After waiting forever finally got an Arc Midi window side panel!


----------



## mshaddix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Its most likely not the PSU causing the molex connection problem, its just molex in general. I absolutely hate molex connectors and wish they were gone. My psu had a problem with any molex I tried to hook up to it. If they don't line up perfectly expect the pins being pushed out of the connector. I cant stand it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /rant
> 
> Good to hear that you like it though, and it should be plenty of power for my system. Even with a new 8350.


Yeah Molex are terrible, but my particular unit, all of the molex connectors were misaligned. I think it's just a flaw in the ribbon cable design.


----------



## lordhinton

here's an updated one of my c1000 with white fans








also removed the hard drive and mounted my 2 2.5" drives in the floppy bay adapter and all the cables moved clear of the airflow the best i could! also the heat sink has been cleaned


----------



## adridu59

^ How's 775 these days?


----------



## lordhinton

as i have no income and what not because of being in college , this is the most beastly thing ive owned







 it holds up well in things like mw3 max graphics at 120fps (unless my fraps is broken) really need a job to experience what an i series processor is like


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Its most likely not the PSU causing the molex connection problem, its just molex in general. I absolutely hate molex connectors and wish they were gone. My psu had a problem with any molex I tried to hook up to it. If they don't line up perfectly expect the pins being pushed out of the connector. I cant stand it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /rant
> 
> Good to hear that you like it though, and it should be plenty of power for my system. Even with a new 8350.


/agreewithrant

I can't wait til they banish molex









***New pictures coming this weekend***


----------



## valkeriefire

I just thought I'd share a mod I did a few weeks ago. Stealth DVDRW drive.


----------



## the_geek

Hey Fractal fans....! I'm currently in the market for an upgrade to my 775 build, and I've really been digging the Fractal Design cases.
Just curious what your thoughts are on the value of a Micro-ATX case vs a Mid-Tower -- especially the Define Mini vs the Define R4.

I have a Thermaltake Performer -- a single 120-rad watercooler; a 700W semi-modular PSU; a hard drive; and a GPU -- my trusty old GTX 460.
I have a MicroATX mobo picked out, as well as some RAM, and I plan to get a 3570K.

I move my rig around pretty often, so the mATX form factor is really appealing....but I'm wondering if I'll miss the flexibility of a Mid tower and a full size mobo....?

I don't plan to ever have any kind of SLI/xFire setup, and I don't need a ton of hard drive space, but what are your thoughts?


----------



## BlackskyDK

Just made a couple of mods i thought i would share =)



I wanted to mount my SSD to the bottom of my case, but there's no mounting holes, so i thought i could use one of my moduvents covers, and turn that into an SSD mount. Really DIY, made with a knife and a wine opener (







)



I saw some other guy who did this, and i had a fan laying around that i didn't use, so i thought i might as well just try it, and see how well it works =)


----------



## Bazem

http://imgur.com/miSFCNL

Been a fan of this thread for a while, finally get to join it.
My new R4 Build should be here sometime this week.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> 
> 
> I saw some other guy who did this, and i had a fan laying around that i didn't use, so i thought i might as well just try it, and see how well it works =)


At least you mentioned me








Sadly, that fan has been removed, and it will be replaced by a NZXT LED kit


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bazem*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/miSFCNL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been a fan of this thread for a while, finally get to join it.
> My new R4 Build should be here sometime this week.


hopefully you can get it built and pictured for the club..

question(s):
what 'cha building a rig for? gaming? rendering? 3D CAD?

why so much power supply? 850 is plenty for a overclocking beast and
SLI 680(s). use the spare cash from the PSU for 1866/2133 RAM.

airdeano


----------



## ZeVo

Installed the NF-A14's.





Also mounted my SSD behind the mobo tray and redid my cable management.


----------



## ervhamzz213

ordered my fractal core 3000 awhileago and it's coming tomorrow. excited much







here's my build that would get in that fractal core 3000. i'd love to have a black full acrylic side panel for the core 3000 but i dunno where to start.

my build feat. nzxt phantom 410 's last day:


----------



## Bazem

Im building an all around rig, Gaming, Rendering, Editing and Modelling. thats why i went with the 2011.
And the reason for the power supply is basicly because i plan to sli in the near future and i want that extra playing room.


----------



## HiCZoK

guys. So, my question is unanswered. Will Macho or silver arrow fit in fractal 3000 (with one 7870 in it) ?
The specs on official site say 160mm and macho is 162


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_geek*
> 
> I move my rig around pretty often, so the mATX form factor is really appealing....but I'm wondering if I'll miss the flexibility of a Mid tower and a full size mobo....?


If you move often you'd probably be interested in the Silverstone SG09/10.

Checkout this build log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1327623/build-log-silverstone-sg09-micro-atx-sff-powerhouse/0_20
That's the most compact µATX case through so you have to have a compact PSU and so on...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> my build feat. nzxt phantom 410 's last day


Anything you don't like with the 410 or you're just changing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> guys. So, my question is unanswered. Will Macho or silver arrow fit in fractal 3000 (with one 7870 in it) ?
> The specs on official site say 160mm and macho is 162


It's hard to say. I was researching it the other day and found those links which seem to confirm it:

http://forum.pcformat.pl/Fractal-Design-Core-3000-Macho-V2-t
- I think you should understand this better as I do since it's in Polish





- this video is mentioned in the previous thread, go to 8:25 they that max. clearance is 165mm

http://www.eteknix.com/reviews/cases/fractal-design-core-3000-case-review/5/
- « The maximum supported CPU cooler height is 160mm according to Fractal Design, but if you are lucky, you may be able to get away with 162mm as an absolute maximum. »

When measuring anyway one always has to take into account the motherboard+CPU clearance:
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2147200
You can measure and see by yourself, I didn't do it as of now.

If you find something please post back, this interests me.


----------



## Malik

Work in progress


----------



## HiCZoK

that's sick


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Anything you don't like with the 410 or you're just changing?


i don't like MY 410 because i dropped it once and it makes a buzzing noise and it's a bit bent. xD I have my 410 custom looped but i hated how the white mayhem ice dragon turned yellow and my gpu waterblock is such a failure. so there i made this build from my old parts and got a better gpu and thought i may need a new case.







no hard feelings for nzxt phantom 410


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Work in progress


AWWWWW YEAH







cant wait too see


----------



## lordhinton

sorry for the spam of my case, i just love this thing!
its my first name brand case ive owned and im very impressed with the quality!,

here are a couple showing my case at present, i managed cable management by cutting a hole up top next to my PSU also, as its a non modular unit, i have removed excess cables that are not needed and removed corsairs sleeving, there shrink wrap doesn't allow enough flex in the cables for what i wanted to do, also this allows the cables to be layed flat behind the mobo tray.. (you can now join me to the "bowed rear case door group", it isnt too bad, much easier than my last case!)

also that hard drive tray..

i lined it up at the back of the case and marked out where the screw goes at the bottom, i then drilled out a hole and placed it all in with original thumb screw, at the top i just used a cable tie to hold it all in place, also it gives me a fully covered area where i can hide cables behind. all i need now is longer sata cables so i can route them differently







im very pleased with today's work..





thanks for looking!

-lordhinton


----------



## [email protected]

☆ Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3 Update ☆


----------



## K4IKEN

Aweosome pictures [email protected] and Mailk.. Just to keep the HQ pic train going, my modest system.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Aweosome pictures [email protected] and Mailk.. Just to keep the HQ pic train going, my modest system.


Super _klean_







and love that blue!


----------



## K4IKEN

Thanks mane! What camera and lens are you using?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Aweosome pictures [email protected] and Mailk.. Just to keep the HQ pic train going, my modest system.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Everything is said: CLEAN
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ☆ Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3 Update ☆
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh man I love the G1´s slot-layout it´s just perfect for dual DCII 680 *__*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> sorry for the spam of my case, i just love this thing!
> its my first name brand case ive owned and im very impressed with the quality!,
> 
> here are a couple showing my case at present, i managed cable management by cutting a hole up top next to my PSU also, as its a non modular unit, i have removed excess cables that are not needed and removed corsairs sleeving, there shrink wrap doesn't allow enough flex in the cables for what i wanted to do, also this allows the cables to be layed flat behind the mobo tray.. (you can now join me to the "bowed rear case door group", it isnt too bad, much easier than my last case!)
> 
> also that hard drive tray..
> 
> i lined it up at the back of the case and marked out where the screw goes at the bottom, i then drilled out a hole and placed it all in with original thumb screw, at the top i just used a cable tie to hold it all in place, also it gives me a fully covered area where i can hide cables behind. all i need now is longer sata cables so i can route them differently
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im very pleased with today's work..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for looking!
> 
> -lordhinton


Nice touch.








I would be interested to see the back of the motherboard-tray, if possible .


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Thanks mane! What camera and lens are you using?


_Nikon D7000 + Nikkor 50mm (1:1.4)_


----------



## K4IKEN

I thought it was at least a 50mm looking at that sweet bokeh.. That lens is definitely on my wishlist.


----------



## [email protected]

It's a fantastic lens with incredible depth-of-field


----------



## alabrand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Work in progress


That is absolutely wonderful! Which sleeve do you use?


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ☆ Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3 Update ☆


Pardon me, [email protected] - I'm not familiar with those GPU support brackets you are using - I love the way they hold the cards perfectly straight.

They also are very subtle - could you tell me who makes them?

Or a link for them?

(BTW, those last 3 or 4 members builds are all to die for - props to all their builders/owners!)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> Pardon me, [email protected] - I'm not familiar with those GPU support brackets you are using - I love the way they hold the cards perfectly straight.
> 
> They also are very subtle - could you tell me who makes them?
> 
> Or a link for them?


Those brackets are stock on the ASUS GTX 680 DCII's (the last generation 570's and 580's did not have this bracket)

All I added was a few bits of Carbon Fiber Di-Noc to match the rest of the build.


----------



## blue-cat

Wow, Zevo, Malik [email protected] and Kaiken those looks awesome. Such nice photography too.

lordhinton, are you going to tidy up the cable management? with a little work you can hide most of your cables neatly behind the motherboard tray (there's plenty of room) and you'll be laughing.

Have finally decided that I will buy one of these at Easter. Can't wait. Do you know if fractal sells the rear PCI slot covers spearately as I'll be after white ones for my white case but I understand it ships with black?


----------



## lordhinton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Everything is said: CLEAN
> Oh man I love the G1´s slot-layout it´s just perfect for dual DCII 680 *__*
> Nice touch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would be interested to see the back of the motherboard-tray, if possible .


eerr.. you dont wanna see that







ill get one up tomorrow


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ☆ Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3 Update ☆


How's that gap treating your top card temps? Any difference?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> How's that gap treating your top card temps? Any difference?


About 10-12C load temp drop









While gaming, top card sits around 50C


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Installed the NF-A14's.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also mounted my SSD behind the mobo tray and redid my cable management.


Love the noc's. Some people don't because of the color, but I like them.










Spoiler: My Core 1k with nocs


----------



## the petes

Does anyone know how to clean the brushed aluminum from panels? My Node 304's front panel already looks like ass and i havent even touched the front!!! I was thinking Never Dull but i dont want to ruin the matte black finish.

Any ideas?


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the petes*
> 
> Does anyone know how to clean the brushed aluminum from panels? My Node 304's front panel already looks like ass and i havent even touched the front!!! I was thinking Never Dull but i dont want to ruin the matte black finish.
> 
> Any ideas?


Hahaha, it just so happens that I had teleshopping on this morning and they were advertising a steam cleaner for about 40 mins straight. In the video it cleaned the grease and grime from all the surfaces including steel, tiles and carpet. I reckon it'd be perfect for the job but it was about £99. Maybe you can get a cheaper one or just use a microfibre cloth and very hot water (maybe very mild/dilute detergent)

If it's good enough for this very greasy and dirty cooker backsplash a smaller handheld version could do nicely for your pc case.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Have finally decided that I will buy one of these at Easter. Can't wait. Do you know if fractal sells the rear PCI slot covers spearately as I'll be after white ones for my white case but I understand it ships with black?


If they don't sell them separately, I have 14x white slot covers I'm not using, and could send them to you.

Want to trade?


----------



## BBEG

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I _really_ like these support brackets. I wonder if Asus can be convinced to sell them separately. Gonna email them to ask.

Edit: And their contact information is down. Awesome.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I _really_ like these support brackets. I wonder if Asus can be convinced to sell them separately. Gonna email them to ask.


Iknorite?

I had a GTX 570 DCII in an older build of mine. Card sagged a bit, used a "Card Keeper" from a 9800GTX (heavily modified) to support it.

It worked well, but lots of effort for an issue that should have been aparent before they released the card


----------



## BBEG

I'm testing my new 7950 now and while the stock cooler is extremely effective, yeah, I'm getting some sag too. When I look at the water blocks available, they're all heavy SOBs themselves. That DCII bracket looks like it can be made to support most air-cooled designs, but I'd have to have a water block in-hand to see if they can be made to support those.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I'm testing my new 7950 now and while the stock cooler is extremely effective, yeah, I'm getting some sag too. When I look at the water blocks available, they're all heavy SOBs themselves. That DCII bracket looks like it can be made to support most air-cooled designs, but I'd have to have a water block in-hand to see if they can be made to support those.


Having a backplate will add some extra rigidity to the card itself, not sure how much though.


----------



## the petes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Hahaha, it just so happens that I had teleshopping on this morning and they were advertising a steam cleaner for about 40 mins straight. In the video it cleaned the grease and grime from all the surfaces including steel, tiles and carpet. I reckon it'd be perfect for the job but it was about £99. Maybe you can get a cheaper one or just use a microfibre cloth and very hot water (maybe very mild/dilute detergent)
> 
> If it's good enough for this very greasy and dirty cooker backsplash a smaller handheld version could do nicely for your pc case.


I can guarantee you that they sprayed some kind of degreaser before using the steamer. Water, no matter the temperature, will only spread oils around.


----------



## HiCZoK

Guys?
Any way of connecting 8-pin with psu fanside up?
I have corsair gs600w psu which looks fantastic and have nice blue led lighs but when I've tried to install it in my 3000 case, the 8.pin wasnt long enough and either way (back side and over gpu was too short).

It only fits like that, because cables come closer to the back hole when psu is fanside down as in pics. This is how I roll with my rig right now btw. not even sure if I posted thsoe pics before (prolly yes







)
yep -that gpu is hanging on a plastic thingy, because it was bending.(like most nowadays gpu's)


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Guys?
> Any way of connecting 8-pin with psu fanside up?


your gunna have to use a extension harness to make that connection.

airdeano


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Guys?
> Any way of connecting 8-pin with psu fanside up?
> I have corsair gs600w psu which looks fantastic and have nice blue led lighs but when I've tried to install it in my 3000 case, the 8.pin wasnt long enough and either way (back side and over gpu was too short).


Extension cables aren't that expensive and they look a lot better too

http://www.amazon.com/CB-8P-8-Pin-Motherboard-Extension-Premium/dp/B0036ORCJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1360114799&sr=1-1&keywords=nzxt+8+pin+extension

nzxt sells these extensions in white black and red for all kinds of connector types


----------



## ervhamzz213

hey guys! can i please be a member here?







an here's a pic of my case 
i've removed the hdd cages and the plastic ribs from the fron panel awhile ago.








ill be inserting my components later.


----------



## BBEG

Reach into that 5.25 bay and find the screws holding the HDD cage bracket. Removing that bracket cleans the case up a bit more and gives you more total height from case floor to 5.25 bay if you're putting a rad up there. For now, I have my SSD stuck up there where the bracket used to be until I get the build settled for the long-term.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Work in progress


Finally somebody with a decent Arc build.


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Extension cables aren't that expensive and they look a lot better too
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/CB-8P-8-Pin-Motherboard-Extension-Premium/dp/B0036ORCJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1360114799&sr=1-1&keywords=nzxt+8+pin+extension
> 
> nzxt sells these extensions in white black and red for all kinds of connector types


Thanks, Now, to find that in Poland


----------



## ervhamzz213

done with component installation.


----------



## looterdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Extension cables aren't that expensive and they look a lot better too
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/CB-8P-8-Pin-Motherboard-Extension-Premium/dp/B0036ORCJY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1360114799&sr=1-1&keywords=nzxt+8+pin+extension
> 
> nzxt sells these extensions in white black and red for all kinds of connector types


If I would get extensions for all 6 pins 8pin and 24pin, Would I be able to fit it at the back of the 3000 despite the small clearance?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Any way of connecting 8-pin with psu fanside up?


I would leave it as it is right now personally, always better to have the intake from the exterior of the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*


Very nice! How did you route the 8pins cable?


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Very nice! How did you route the 8pins cable?


luckily my 8 pin cable could be separated and clipped back in place. it took me so much time thinking where to route tht 8 pin cable. i was just about to route it behind the mobo and accidentally separated it 4x4.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> done with component installation.


Very nice and clean!


----------



## Airrick10

Well I got my led light strip and my window for my Arc Midi....I just need to install the led strip and I'll post some pics later on. The window looks great and has the sound proofing material found in the Define side panels!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*


Excellent build, VERY clean!


----------



## ervhamzz213

so yeah.. thaks you guys for good comments.







now 1 of my top fan isn't working due to lack of 3 pin slots i'm planning to buy a fan controller and what would you guys suggest? and i would love to make a full plexi side panel for this rig any suggestions? and lastly i want to mount my ssd somewhere else because it's obviously just dumped inside the bay. i do metalworks at work i could weld, bend drill and etc metals but i'm not that familiar with plexis that's why i wanted my side panel full plexi'd, that would be a easier way i guess.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> 
> so yeah.. thaks you guys for good comments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now 1 of my top fan isn't working due to lack of 3 pin slots i'm planning to buy a fan controller and what would you guys suggest? and i would love to make a full plexi side panel for this rig any suggestions? and lastly i want to mount my ssd somewhere else because it's obviously just dumped inside the bay. i do metalworks at work i could weld, bend drill and etc metals but i'm not that familiar with plexis that's why i wanted my side panel full plexi'd, that would be a easier way i guess.


Is your case an Arc Midi? If so, you can get this fan controller:

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=80


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Is your case an Arc Midi?


Nope it's a Core 3000.


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> 
> so yeah.. thaks you guys for good comments.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now 1 of my top fan isn't working due to lack of 3 pin slots i'm planning to buy a fan controller and what would you guys suggest? and i would love to make a full plexi side panel for this rig any suggestions? and lastly i want to mount my ssd somewhere else because it's obviously just dumped inside the bay. i do metalworks at work i could weld, bend drill and etc metals but i'm not that familiar with plexis that's why i wanted my side panel full plexi'd, that would be a easier way i guess.


The Reeven Six Eyes with retractable buttons, temp/RPM readouts, and adjustable colors is really nice...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36265


----------



## adridu59

The NZXT Sentry Mesh should match the front of the case better, through the mesh on it is thinner than on the case. Also it can seem a bit expensive but it can pull 30W per channel.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> The Reeven Six Eyes with retractable buttons, temp/RPM readouts, and adjustable colors is really nice...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36265


this is a nice controller but sir i'd just waste that controller's features. i don't want those sensor cables scattered around so maybe a fan controller without sensor cables and a cheap one i guess.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> The Reeven Six Eyes with retractable buttons, temp/RPM readouts, and adjustable colors is really nice...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36265


Very Nice indeed!!!


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> The NZXT Sentry Mesh should match the front of the case better, through the mesh on it is thinner than on the case. Also it can seem a bit expensive but it can pull 30W per channel.


I have a sentry mesh, integrates well with the look of the Midi.



MaX.


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looterdevil*
> 
> If I would get extensions for all 6 pins 8pin and 24pin, Would I be able to fit it at the back of the 3000 despite the small clearance?


The extensions aren't that long so it wouldn't be that much different than with out them. On my define R4 the 6 pin cables are just long enough to reach from the gpu to the back of the motherboard tray. I don't have a modular psu though so I shoved all the extra cables in a cloth bag in the bottom of the hard drive cage.


----------



## lordhinton

as some of you know i love my little core 1000 case







, what i want to know, is could i fit a corsair water cooling loop (like h80i) in there above where the front fan is (so there will be 2) i will have to cut out some of the metal but i don't mind doing that







, there looks to be enough space, also could i mount the fan on the outside of the metal (just behind the mesh front on the plastic part) then fix the rad directly to the chassis with a fan connected on the inner side?

i will make the whole case run backwards so the intakes will be in the rear with exhausts in front or could i just leave it with intakes in the front and exhaust at rear?

thanks for reading!

-dan


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> as some of you know i love my little core 1000 case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , what i want to know, is could i fit a corsair water cooling loop (like h80i) in there above where the front fan is (so there will be 2) i will have to cut out some of the metal but i don't mind doing that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , there looks to be enough space, also could i mount the fan on the outside of the metal (just behind the mesh front on the plastic part) then fix the rad directly to the chassis with a fan connected on the inner side?
> 
> i will make the whole case run backwards so the intakes will be in the rear with exhausts in front or could i just leave it with intakes in the front and exhaust at rear?
> 
> thanks for reading!
> 
> -dan


If @Axipher can do it, you can do it too.







Check out his pics. If that's what you're asking?
http://www.overclock.net/g/i/847402/project-maple-leaf/sort/display_order/


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> I have a sentry mesh, integrates well with the look of the Midi.


Yeah it looks good, was talking about the Core 3000 through.









- The mesh on it is thinner than what's on it's front panel but that should still look good whatsoever.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> as some of you know i love my little core 1000 case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , what i want to know, is could i fit a corsair water cooling loop (like h80i) in there above where the front fan is (so there will be 2) i will have to cut out some of the metal but i don't mind doing that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , there looks to be enough space, also could i mount the fan on the outside of the metal (just behind the mesh front on the plastic part) then fix the rad directly to the chassis with a fan connected on the inner side?
> 
> i will make the whole case run backwards so the intakes will be in the rear with exhausts in front or could i just leave it with intakes in the front and exhaust at rear?
> 
> thanks for reading!
> 
> -dan
> 
> 
> 
> If @Axipher can do it, you can do it too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out his pics. If that's what you're asking?
> http://www.overclock.net/g/i/847402/project-maple-leaf/sort/display_order/
Click to expand...

HAbing two H80's in the front is definitely possible by cutting out a portion of the ODD bay and trimming a bunch of useless plastic off the front panel.


----------



## lordhinton

Thanks Will take a look







. I will only be mounting one for the processor and I plan for it to be above the original fan so there will only be onerad







thanks for the help


----------



## ivoryg37

I was about to order the FD 3000 but apparently its sold out everywhere cause FD just upgraded the front ports to USB 3.0. Hopefully, it release in states soon so I can upgrade my case. mATX doesn't have enough PCIe slot for me right now.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Does anyone own both an R3 and R4 so they can check if the side panel is compatible between the two?

Seems they never ended up bringing that R3 window to market, while the R4/Midi one is readily available. According to their website, the specs are the same for both window panels but I'm not sure if that's accurate since the cases are different sizes.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> Thanks Will take a look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I will only be mounting one for the processor and I plan for it to be above the original fan so there will only be onerad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the help


I'm not using my Core 1000 and I think we have an extra H60 laying around, I'll snap some pictures tonight or tomorrow night if you'd like.


----------



## rovert19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> Does anyone own both an R3 and R4 so they can check if the side panel is compatible between the two?
> 
> Seems they never ended up bringing that R3 window to market, while the R4/Midi one is readily available. According to their website, the specs are the same for both window panels but I'm not sure if that's accurate since the cases are different sizes.


The r3 windowed panel can be purchased at NCIX's Canadian site. Hope this helps.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rovert19*
> 
> The r3 windowed panel can be purchased at NCIX's Canadian site. Hope this helps.


Thanks for the link. I see it's not on the US site though. After shipping this comes out to be about $40, while the R4 panel can be purchased from various US retailers for under $30 shipped. It seems the R3 panel also does not come with the padding that is offered with the R4, making it a worse value overall.

For the above reasons, I would buy the R4 panel if it fits but would hold off on the R3 version.


----------



## lordhinton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I'm not using my Core 1000 and I think we have an extra H60 laying around, I'll snap some pictures tonight or tomorrow night if you'd like.


thanks that would be great!, could you take some with you holding the rad up above the fan against the hdd cage please as this is where im planning on putting it









thanks for the help


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> HAbing two H80's in the front is definitely possible by cutting out a portion of the ODD bay and trimming a bunch of useless plastic off the front panel.


Yup, you could even fit an h100 in this case if you wanted. I have an RS240 rad in mine. Check out GolferGolfer's build http://www.overclock.net/t/1277710/work-log-completed-golfergolfers-first-water-cooled-core-1000


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> Does anyone own both an R3 and R4 so they can check if the side panel is compatible between the two?
> 
> Seems they never ended up bringing that R3 window to market, while the R4/Midi one is readily available. According to their website, the specs are the same for both window panels but I'm not sure if that's accurate since the cases are different sizes.


Posted this a while back. They are different sized panels. On the FD site, the dimensions are for the package it ships in.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> HAbing two H80's in the front is definitely possible by cutting out a portion of the ODD bay and trimming a bunch of useless plastic off the front panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, you could even fit an h100 in this case if you wanted. I have an RS240 rad in mine. Check out GolferGolfer's build http://www.overclock.net/t/1277710/work-log-completed-golfergolfers-first-water-cooled-core-1000
Click to expand...

No rpoblem, and I had a GTX240 (double thick) RAD in the front with I know anything else would fit, if you want fans on the inside as well as the outside on a double-thick RAD, you will just have to cut away more of the ODD bay then I did, but it's possible. Until I actually take pictures tonight or tomorrow night, I'm pretty sure that having a fan on the bottom then the H80 on top of that should only block the lower ODD bay.


----------



## rovert19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> Thanks for the link. I see it's not on the US site though. After shipping this comes out to be about $40, while the R4 panel can be purchased from various US retailers for under $30 shipped. It seems the R3 panel also does not come with the padding that is offered with the R4, making it a worse value overall.
> 
> For the above reasons, I would buy the R4 panel if it fits but would hold off on the R3 version.


Yea, it kind of sucks not having the sound dampening stuff. It was on sale a while ago for $16 too.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rovert19*
> 
> Yea, it kind of sucks not having the sound dampening stuff. It was on sale a while ago for $16 too.


It's $16 CAD right now but shipping is another $20 CAD.


----------



## Malik

Some tests how that looks inside Arc Midi:


----------



## Lutfij

@ Malik - you are absolutely killing it with those glamour shots!!! Nice work!!! What camera you using? any post processing tools?


----------



## eBombzor

Does any one know what RPM the stock R4 fans are spinning at for 5v and 7v? I need to know if I should plug it into my motherboard or use the fan controller on the R4 to achieve better temps.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


Beautiful pictures! Outstanding build! _...Hmmm....looks very similar to a build I've seen before.....just can't put my finger on it..._


----------



## K4IKEN

Editing on those photos is top notch! Is EK sponsoring the build or something, or are you just showing them lots of love?


----------



## blue-cat

Haha, s'wer, definitely see the resemblance but in fairness, the Crosshair V screams for a red and black build and the corsair fans are easy to get the right colour.

I was wondering if anyone actually uses alot/all of the drivebays in their cases? I plan on filling at least 5 initially and thought about reversing the airflow to keep the aircooled CPU and GPU cool. Any thoughts or experience?


----------



## [email protected]

Speaking of the Corsair AF/SP fans.....anyone have luck painting the rings? (I was thinking about going a bit wild and painting mine a bright green to match my G1 Sniper 3 mobo)









Any input would be awesome!


----------



## ElevenEleven

I'm seriously looking into Define R4 (white with window), but definitely worried about temperatures / noise.

Currently, I own an H100i 240mm radiator closed-loop cooler, and I've read here that it's possible to fit the radiator into the case, but not the details of how it was done.

Specifically, would it require modding to fit at the front of the case in push/pull configuration (like removing some rivets, adding more holes, or adding some bracket to hold the radiator where 2 140mm fans are normally supposed to go)?

How about along the top of the case as intake - I would need to make extra holes? Not sure if there's room for push/pull configuration there.

Any advice on the preferred configuration would be great.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Speaking of the Corsair AF/SP fans.....anyone have luck painting the rings? (I was thinking about going a bit wild and painting mine a bright green to match my G1 Sniper 3 mobo)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any input would be awesome!


I've seen a few builds on here with painted fans. Check out some of BNEGATIVE's builds. It looks pretty easy and is a nice touch to really set a build off.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I'm seriously looking into Define R4 (white with window), but definitely worried about temperatures / noise.
> 
> How about along the top of the case as intake - I would need to make extra holes? Not sure if there's room for push/pull configuration there.
> 
> Any advice on the preferred configuration would be great.


I have the Window R4
I haven't had any issues with temps or noise (although I have my case fans running on 7V)

I also have an H100 mounted in the top of my R4 (push only, p/p is not possible without modification) it fits just fine.
Only thing you would have to watch out for would be tall MOSFIT heatsinks or RAM positioned high on the mobo


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thank you. Looks like I might be better off putting H100i in the front in push / pull then, somehow. Did you have to remove some rivets to take out the bottom hard drive cage, or is it removable as well?

Also, looks like you just have your H100 in push for exhaust? How does that make the temperatures look on your overclocked i7? My ivy i7 likes to run warm in suboptimal conditions, but runs very cool now with intake push/pull radiator configuration.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Thank you. Looks like I might be better off putting H100i in the front in push / pull then, somehow. Did you have to remove some rivets to take out the bottom hard drive cage, or is it removable as well?
> 
> Also, looks like you just have your H100 in push for exhaust? How does that make the temperatures look on your overclocked i7? My ivy i7 likes to run warm in suboptimal conditions, but runs very cool now with intake push/pull radiator configuration.


Bottom drive cage is removable







(no rivets)
Temps are just fine (stays under 60C load temp / 4.4GHz)......I just don't like the idea of un-filtered air being pulled through the rad (plus I'm a neat-freak and hate dust







)

I guess I could always try to install filters, but since temps are fine, I haven't bothered with it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thank you! I actually have some Silverstone fan grills / filters that are on my AP-14s over H100i at the moment--I think I could re-use them for this case. We'll see... I'm happy to go through my case with a can of compressed air once a month if I can get good temperatures and low noise levels.


----------



## mikemartinco

If anyone wants to paint the rings... Speaking from experience....

If its a light or bright color use a white primer, multiple thin coats(shouldn't start to be covered till at least 3rd coat)

If going midtone use gray, black for dark

decide if you want the same shine, satin are what the rings are currently, gloss will add shiney light reflections

Krylon is the best and most available also made by sherwin Williams, 2nd would be valspar.

Make sure the rooms warm also the cans


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Thank you. Looks like I might be better off putting H100i in the front in push / pull then, somehow. Did you have to remove some rivets to take out the bottom hard drive cage, or is it removable as well?


Yup, bottom HDD cage is completely removable and even possible to relocate a bit deeper inside using the bottom fan mounting holes. Still, not enough clearance to accept a push/pull but the option is definitely there. Completely removing the HDD cage leaves a crazy stupid amount of space there for a push/pull with a 240 rad.

As far as mounting it, no modding at all is needed. Mine sits flush and securely using the original fan mount that came with the case itself.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thanks for the tips!!

Just ordered me a windowed white Define r4! Excited to move my main system to it from my Prodigy. Love the prodigy, but after a few months with it on my desk, I just can't take the noise anymore (my bedroom is super quiet due to not having any background noise). The Prodigy will just have to sit in a box


----------



## ervhamzz213

mod for today would be the bay cover. got home from work and bought some spray cans and double-sided tape. wish me luck on painting. i dunno anything about painting but i have a primer and black paint so i guess that's fine.


----------



## lordhinton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I have the Window R4
> I haven't had any issues with temps or noise (although I have my case fans running on 7V)
> 
> I also have an H100 mounted in the top of my R4 (push only, p/p is not possible without modification) it fits just fine.
> Only thing you would have to watch out for would be tall MOSFIT heatsinks or RAM positioned high on the mobo


great pic









my mate needs a tissue


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> great pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my mate needs a tissue










Thank You Sir!


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I have the Window R4
> I haven't had any issues with temps or noise (although I have my case fans running on 7V)
> I also have an H100 mounted in the top of my R4 (push only, p/p is not possible without modification) it fits just fine.
> Only thing you would have to watch out for would be tall MOSFIT heatsinks or RAM positioned high on the mobo
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So clean!


----------



## HiCZoK

How the heck do I do cable management (hdd/ssd power cables) in 3000?

I have corsair gs600w and it have extremely hard sata power cables (2x3) One goes to my dvdrom and I am left with one cable to use with 2xhdd and 1xssd. There are 3 plugs but The damn cable is so not flexible I am afraid I will break power ports on disks


----------



## b0z0

I'm seriously thinking about getting rid of my Silverstone FT03B and picking up Arc Mini.


----------



## bortoloj

My arc mini modded









Glossy black front mod and dark gey tint side panel


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> I have corsair gs600w and it have extremely hard sata power cables (2x3) One goes to my dvdrom and I am left with one cable to use with 2xhdd and 1xssd. There are 3 plugs but The damn cable is so not flexible I am afraid I will break power ports on disks


I'd get a 4 pinbs to SATA extension cable, like:
http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/premium_cables/cb_42sata
http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/premium_cables/cb_43sata

BTW, how do you like the M5S?


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> My arc mini modded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glossy black front mod and dark gey tint side panel


Alright, that side panel is just drop dead gorgeous!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> My arc mini modded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glossy black front mod and dark gey tint side panel


Very classy - well done!! A unique and beautiful take on the standard black case (I'm generally pretty tired of all the black computer cases, but some truly stand out!)


----------



## bortoloj

Thanks


----------



## adridu59

I don't think Air Penetrator's perform well on heatsink... do you get any temp difference vs. the stock Alpenföhn fan?


----------



## bortoloj

There is a difference but the stock fan does a lot of noise and vibrates, the silverstone is sufficient same as 7v my phenom is cold


----------



## ElevenEleven

Speaking of fans, would anyone with FD R4 comment on the included fans? I was planning on combining them at the top or at the front for intake, depending on where I put my radiator. Putting a 14cm Phanteks fan into the rear exhaust position. Should I invest in better fans, or are the FD Define R4 ones pretty good?


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Speaking of fans, would anyone with FD R4 comment on the included fans? I was planning on combining them at the top or at the front for intake, depending on where I put my radiator. Putting a 14cm Phanteks fan into the rear exhaust position. Should I invest in better fans, or are the FD Define R4 ones pretty good?


For air flow fans in a quiet case they do a good job. However, they aren't good for radiatiors if that's what you're aiming them for.


----------



## Techn0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> My arc mini modded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glossy black front mod and dark gey tint side panel


can i get more pitcures but from the front with lights on and off ?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> For air flow fans in a quiet case they do a good job. However, they aren't good for radiatiors if that's what you're aiming them for.


Ah no, I've got 4 Scythe GTs for that. Case airflow is what I was thinking about. Like if I do the radiator up top as intake, I was thinking of 2 140mm front intake fans that reach far, such as air penetrator fans of some sort. Otherwise, if I do the radiator at the front in push/pull (most likely), any good quiet 140mm fans will be fine at the top.


----------



## fireisdangerous

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InTheFade*


Love this, could you give me the dimensions off that but of acrylic? how have you fitted it in the case?

Thanks Tony


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I'd get a 4 pinbs to SATA extension cable, like:
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/premium_cables/cb_42sata
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/premium_cables/cb_43sata
> 
> BTW, how do you like the M5S?


The ssd is fantastic.
Installed win7 on it and the thing is fast !
I am still yet to play some games but I need to do a better job with cable management in my pc first. get 8pin extension and 4pin to sata power extensions as You linked. Maybe hang that 7870 on some string or something so it wont bend so much.

As for fractal 3000 case. it is fantastic but a bit low amount of space for cm inside. I am using default 1in 2 out fractal fans setup. Works great, Cooling is efficent and quiet (no fan controller. It is crappy. Using manual speeds of fans in uefi. 1100 for intake. 900 for both out fans









Also Installed raised plexi(raised on small rubber feet) on top and side panel, so dust wont enter the system easily. Looks good to me and really helps with dust. I posted some photos earlier
http://www.overclock.net/g/a/828004/fractal-design-case-club/ - my case photos if someone wants to see em







No ssd in those photos. I need to do something with cables and maybe put psu fanside up.

I am unsure on so many things but generally I am very happy with this build. None of builds I've had for past 15years were this well done and quality









edit: Love all the arc midi photos. Fantastic!
If I could ask please share fractal 3000 pics people. Especially inside cable management. give me some ideas !


----------



## adridu59

Yeah I like very much your plexi fan guards.









I know about the 3000 being quite compact... but it''s what I wanted when I bought it, I hate big cases and this one looks very big already in comparison to all the OEM stuff I've had before.









BTW, did you update the firmware of the SSD? ~ has some additional speed boosts.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> My arc mini modded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glossy black front mod and dark gey tint side panel


That is one good looking rig sir


----------



## lordhinton

was ment to upload this yesterday!
anyway-
done this in preparation for the h80, the hole is small like that until i can mark out exactly where the screw holes will be going then i will make it bigger (unless that's fine?), and the hole will be cleaned up, also the front looks prettier now







all i need to do now is (yet again) fork out for another fractal design silent fan for the side panel!, and then one for the rad after that arrives







looks like an expensive week ahead of me considering im upgrading to an i5 + mobo and maybe a 5870








i will replace that foam behind the drive cover













thanks for looking!
-lordhinton


----------



## bortoloj

Thanks kim jong so ill


----------



## BlackskyDK

Hi good people of OCN. I was just wondering, if i maybe should change the orientation of my CPU heatsink, since I've noticed a lot of heat coming from the GPU when i'm playing games.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> Hi good people of OCN. I was just wondering, if i maybe should change the orientation of my CPU heatsink, since I've noticed a lot of heat coming from the GPU when i'm playing games.


I just did this with my H100 this morning.

Fans are acting as intakes from the top of my case now, dropped my CPU temps by 10C+ while gaming


----------



## Kimir

Oh I haven't posted in here since a while (last time as with my R3 with the big noctua), here is a pic of my R4 :


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh I haven't posted in here since a while (last time as with my R3 with the big noctua), here is a pic of my R4 :


Is that a 280mm or 240mm rad up front?


----------



## Kimir

A 280 one.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Oh I haven't posted in here since a while (last time as with my R3 with the big noctua), here is a pic of my R4 :


How did you go mounting the top 240 (im assuming)? I just ordered a 240 stealth for mine. Did you have to offset it? I have the tall Dominator Platinum RAM headsinks that im worried about.

Cheers,
DeeG


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> A 280 one.


Just wondering... What 140mm fans are you using with the 280 rad? I plan to have a custom water loop in the Arc Midi R2 when it comes out and I have no clue what fans to use with a UT60.


----------



## alabrand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> Just wondering... What 140mm fans are you using with the 280 rad? I plan to have a custom water loop in the Arc Midi R2 when it comes out and I have no clue what fans to use with a UT60.


I could be wrong but those look like the AF140 fans from Corsair.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> How did you go mounting the top 240 (im assuming)? I just ordered a 240 stealth for mine. Did you have to offset it? I have the tall Dominator Platinum RAM headsinks that im worried about.
> 
> Cheers,
> DeeG


Yes it's the 240 of the h100i (I might change that and include the CPU to the custom loop) and I did had to offset it, not because of my ram but because of the CPU 8pin connector of the Rampage IV.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> Just wondering... What 140mm fans are you using with the 280 rad? I plan to have a custom water loop in the Arc Midi R2 when it comes out and I have no clue what fans to use with a UT60.


Well right now I have the two fractal one shipped with the case. I was looking for some good 140mm fan for rad (high mmH2O) but didn't found the one yet. My OCed lightning are cool enough anyway and those Fractal fans are deadly silent even @ 1000rpm (0.84 mmH2O at this speed)
I wish the NB eloop fan comes in 140!


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes it's the 240 of the h100i (I might change that and include the CPU to the custom loop) and I did had to offset it, not because of my ram but because of the CPU 8pin connector of the Rampage IV.
> Well right now I have the two fractal one shipped with the case. I was looking for some good 140mm fan for rad (high mmH2O) but didn't found the one yet. My OCed lightning are cool enough anyway and those Fractal fans are deadly silent even @ 1000rpm (0.84 mmH2O at this speed)
> I wish the NB eloop fan comes in 140!


http://www.amazon.com/Noiseblocker-NB-BlackSilentPro-140mm-Ultra-Quiet/dp/B004JUCNUW

Considering these as I've seen a few people use them including the Dream Machine on MaxPC.


----------



## looterdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> edit: Love all the arc midi photos. Fantastic!
> If I could ask please share fractal 3000 pics people. Especially inside cable management. give me some ideas !


I have been wanting to post my core 3000 here for a long time but I'm too shy since I'm new.

So I had to suck it up just so that I would be able to get some inputs from the good people of OCN so here it is with dust and all.



This here is the 8pin issue I have been having with it. So its just there for now till I get sleeves











Dont mind that piece of weird wood there











So those pics uptop was before I removed the fan grills on the front. This would also sound ridiculous but I pushed my fan controller inward and hid it with the foam and mesh.
It was too bright







I am thinking of changing it to something better.

This is the front panel now. Everything else is the same on the inside










Plans:

Sleeves or Sleeved Extensions
Change MOBO into an ATX
Get SSD
Remove Bottom HDD and transfer it to the 5.25Bays
Plexi Side Panel
EKG84's Front Panel well somewhat like his anyways!

Here you go enjoy guys!


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Yeah I like very much your plexi fan guards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know about the 3000 being quite compact... but it''s what I wanted when I bought it, I hate big cases and this one looks very big already in comparison to all the OEM stuff I've had before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, did you update the firmware of the SSD? ~ has some additional speed boosts.


Yeah. Updated it to 1.2 no problem


----------



## ervhamzz213

Done with my rig...


----------



## n0n44m

Did a bit of cleaning, took some new pics of my Define XL





such good looking cases in here







might do some more modding in the summer


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n0n44m*
> 
> 
> 
> such good looking cases in here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might do some more modding in the summer


I had to go look at your build log.....fantastic!

Love that radiator......I'm jelly of your temps









(<---- air-cooled noob







)


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just sent my Arc Midi to the PC scrap yard in the sky. Salvaged a few things off of it that I'll use to make my R4 better. I'm going to be drilling a few holes in the rear of the optical bays and re-use the small circular grommets so it'll make it easier to hide the cables. Also going to be using a few of the other grommets to make cable management easier. I sold both side panels, top panel, front panel and I/O to my friend who is going to use them to experiment with a few mods he has planned.


----------



## HiCZoK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looterdevil*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have been wanting to post my core 3000 here for a long time but I'm too shy since I'm new.
> 
> So I had to suck it up just so that I would be able to get some inputs from the good people of OCN so here it is with dust and all.
> 
> 
> 
> This here is the 8pin issue I have been having with it. So its just there for now till I get sleeves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont mind that piece of weird wood there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So those pics uptop was before I removed the fan grills on the front. This would also sound ridiculous but I pushed my fan controller inward and hid it with the foam and mesh.
> It was too bright
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of changing it to something better.
> 
> This is the front panel now. Everything else is the same on the inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plans:
> 
> Sleeves or Sleeved Extensions
> Change MOBO into an ATX
> Get SSD
> Remove Bottom HDD and transfer it to the 5.25Bays
> Plexi Side Panel
> EKG84's Front Panel well somewhat like his anyways!
> 
> Here you go enjoy guys!


Nice with additional fans but No dust filter love ? I would protect my pc from dust howeer I could


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Speaking of fans, would anyone with FD R4 comment on the included fans? I was planning on combining them at the top or at the front for intake, depending on where I put my radiator. Putting a 14cm Phanteks fan into the rear exhaust position. Should I invest in better fans, or are the FD Define R4 ones pretty good?


I have not been overly impressed by three stock R4 fans, BUT I am also using them behind the front fan filters. This is not a good arrangement as the stock fans are not high static pressure fans and front fans on the R3 / R4 case have a lot of restriction to overcome. My main annoyance is that they are not quiet at all, even dropped to 7 and 5v.

I also have to give credit where it's due to Fractal: the front fan mount is very secure and doesn't appear to transmit much, if any, vibration to the case or air as audible noise.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I have not been overly impressed by three stock R4 fans, BUT I am also using them behind the front fan filters. This is not a good arrangement as the stock fans are not high static pressure fans and front fans on the R3 / R4 case have a lot of restriction to overcome. My main annoyance is that they are not quiet at all, even dropped to 7 and 5v.
> 
> I also have to give credit where it's due to Fractal: the front fan mount is very secure and doesn't appear to transmit much, if any, vibration to the case or air as audible noise.


Hrm... Well I'm tending toward putting an H100i radiator at the front after all in push/pull (with Scythe Gentle Typhoons), since that's going to be a fairly thick slab to fit at the top otherwise. Not sure if I'd use the top fan openings then. I'm still trying to visualize the best way to set up airflow in that case. On one hand, my GPU is a reference GTX 660 Ti, so it will pull hot air out of the case, and it'd [probably] be good for it to have some high airflow intake fans at the front. On the other hand, maybe the H100i fans will be enough, since my CPU tends to run very cool with it, normally sub 50C in games.

I've been considering getting an Accelero Mono Plus for my GPU, but then the hot air would be dumped into the case, and with restricted airflow that R4 has, it might actually not help GPU temperatures. Unless I set up 2 exhaust fans at the top?

So many possibilities. And finally, I wonder how much of a difference it would make to open up the vents at the top and put fans there, as intake or exhaust. It would certainly be quieter with those vents closed, but not if it will choke the GPU. I'm afraid I'll have to play with configurations quite a bit, unless someone's already tested these possibilities to some extent and could comment.


----------



## [email protected]

Freezing rain all day today in Wisconsin.....stay indoors today = mess with the computer









Found something interesting....

I had a few CM 212+'s in a parts box downstairs.....figured "...hmmm, lets just mess with it..."
I swapped out my H100 for the 212+ and WOW...

CPU temps (2600k 4.4GHz) load temps only went up 5C (now 55C at load) but my GPU temps dropped (top card).

2x GTX 680's SLI Top card (old: 55C, ******new: 42C******)

I would assume the 212+ is helping to cool my top card....and I'm completely fine with 5C+ on my CPU for temps like that


----------



## Deornoth

Finally finished the top panel of my Define Mini!












The rest of the build is still very much a WIP, but it's starting to look the way it is supposed to now!

For more details, see the *Build Log*.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*


That looks killer


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Freezing rain all day today in Wisconsin.....stay indoors today = mess with the computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found something interesting....
> 
> I had a few CM 212+'s in a parts box downstairs.....figured "...hmmm, lets just mess with it..."
> I swapped out my H100 for the 212+ and WOW...
> 
> CPU temps (2600k 4.4GHz) load temps only went up 5C (now 55C at load) but my GPU temps dropped (top card).
> 
> 2x GTX 680's SLI Top card (old: 55C, ******new: 42C******)
> 
> I would assume the 212+ is helping to cool my top card....and I'm completely fine with 5C+ on my CPU for temps like that


How was your H100 set up before? Intake at the top in push configuration? Or at the front?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> How was your H100 set up before? Intake at the top in push configuration? Or at the front?


At first I had it top-mounted (as per my sig-rig pictures) as an exhaust (_Load temps: CPU: 55C GPU: 55C_)
Then I switched it to intake (still top-mounted) (_Load temps: CPU: 49C GPU: 60C_)

Now, threw in a Hyper 212+ (_*CPU: 55C GPU: 42C*_)

That, and going to a tower cooler after the past few years of: H60 --> H80 --> H100 ....it looks awesome in comparison









I now have (2x) 140mm Fractal (non-silent) intakes, (3x) 140mm Corsair AF's at the rear/top of the case ....the airflow is _really_ nice.

The fans on the 212+ are (2x) 120mm Corsair SP's on 7v


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> At first I had it top-mounted (as per my sig-rig pictures) as an exhaust (_Load temps: CPU: 55C GPU: 55C_)
> Then I switched it to intake (still top-mounted) (_Load temps: CPU: 49C GPU: 60C_)
> 
> Now, threw in a Hyper 212+ (_*CPU: 55C GPU: 42C*_)
> 
> That, and going to a tower cooler after the past few years of: H60 --> H80 --> H100 ....it looks awesome in comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now have (2x) 140mm Fractal (non-silent) intakes, (3x) 140mm Corsair AF's at the rear/top of the case ....the airflow is _really_ nice.
> 
> The fans on the 212+ are (2x) 120mm Corsair SP's on 7v


So are the top 140mm Corsairs currently in exhaust, or intake mode?

I like those numbers... very interesting, indeed.


----------



## looterdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Nice with additional fans but No dust filter love ? I would protect my pc from dust howeer I could


Planning to redo the front panel with just accryllic.. but sealing off the holes with maybe a silverstone fan filter. But im still unsure.. Tried picturing out, kinda looks off


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Hrm... Well I'm tending toward putting an H100i radiator at the front after all in push/pull (with Scythe Gentle Typhoons), since that's going to be a fairly thick slab to fit at the top otherwise. Not sure if I'd use the top fan openings then. I'm still trying to visualize the best way to set up airflow in that case. On one hand, my GPU is a reference GTX 660 Ti, so it will pull hot air out of the case, and it'd [probably] be good for it to have some high airflow intake fans at the front. On the other hand, maybe the H100i fans will be enough, since my CPU tends to run very cool with it, normally sub 50C in games.
> 
> I've been considering getting an Accelero Mono Plus for my GPU, but then the hot air would be dumped into the case, and with restricted airflow that R4 has, it might actually not help GPU temperatures. Unless I set up 2 exhaust fans at the top?
> 
> So many possibilities. And finally, I wonder how much of a difference it would make to open up the vents at the top and put fans there, as intake or exhaust. It would certainly be quieter with those vents closed, but not if it will choke the GPU. I'm afraid I'll have to play with configurations quite a bit, unless someone's already tested these possibilities to some extent and could comment.


Since Col5 linked this article a little while back, I've been rethinking how I originally planned to cool my case on both air and water. Paul (the author) found that fans worked best when working together, meaning they had to be close enough to form a concurrent stream or air flow. He illustrated this well when comparing side + rear fan to front + rear fan setups. It seemed that no matter what though, a side intake was the biggest positive impact on system temps. To me, this really gives some great incentive to put to market a 120mm fan mount that attaches to the vertical expansion slot, giving us a solid fan mount but still letting us take the side panel off easily.

Actually, [email protected]'s post also brings up an interesting thought. The GPUs will be cooled by air inside the case, while the CPU would be cooled by the air outside *or* inside, with the H100 as intake or exhaust respectively. I wonder what his temps might look like with an exhaust fan thrown in the rear fan mount, or with a side intake like the bit-tech article describes. It may be that the tower cooler is simply providing an exhaust function that wasn't there with the two CLCs.

Both of these call into question the maxim that "positive pressure" is king for cooling...

(And we're sitting pretty with some of the most versatile cases for cooling options. Go us.







)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> So are the top 140mm Corsairs currently in exhaust, or intake mode?
> 
> I like those numbers... very interesting, indeed.


All 3x 140's are exhaust


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Since Col5 linked this article a little while back, I've been rethinking how I originally planned to cool my case on both air and water. Paul (the author) found that fans worked best when working together, meaning they had to be close enough to form a concurrent stream or air flow. He illustrated this well when comparing side + rear fan to front + rear fan setups. It seemed that no matter what though, a side intake was the biggest positive impact on system temps. To me, this really gives some great incentive to put to market a 120mm fan mount that attaches to the vertical expansion slot, giving us a solid fan mount but still letting us take the side panel off easily.
> 
> Actually, [email protected]'s post also brings up an interesting thought. The GPUs will be cooled by air inside the case, while the CPU would be cooled by the air outside *or* inside, with the H100 as intake or exhaust respectively. I wonder what his temps might look like with an exhaust fan thrown in the rear fan mount, or with a side intake like the bit-tech article describes. It may be that the tower cooler is simply providing an exhaust function that wasn't there with the two CLCs.
> 
> Both of these call into question the maxim that "positive pressure" is king for cooling...
> 
> (And we're sitting pretty with some of the most versatile cases for cooling options. Go us.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I've abandoned the Positive Pressure anthem long ago after I got my BitFenix Prodigy case. Airflow is so limited there, especially on my model with the closed front, that my preference is to go for the best cooling rather than what will allow me to use a compressed air can less frequently. In any case, even when I had a Silverstone FT02-W, I had to use compressed air. I had the windowed model, and I could see all that accumulating dust on the illuminated acrylic quite well







And that case is ALL about positive pressure.

As for R4... I got the windowed model. I just love the looks of components too much. But I had the same thought: side intake would probably be great for a Reference nVidia GPU. It would possibly be detrimental for a non-reference card, however, as it could choke the airflow. As I understand it, non-reference cards, grab air from in front of the fans (from below, in this case) and exhaust it off to the sides, front, and back, to some extent. So having a fan blowing along the width of the card could be detrimental.

I believe in my case, with a reference card and a closed-loop CPU cooler, it would have been best to get the R4 with a side intake fan, use that fan for the GPU cooling (and the reference GPU would exhaust warm air out of the back of the case), put 2 high airflow 140mm intake fans at the front, and use the GPU cooler (H100i here) at the top as intake with one set of fans, exhausting that hot air out with a 140mm exhaust fan. But... I'm not doing that, as it stands =/


----------



## Junkboy

Hey folks, I'm gonna have Dwood make me some stuff and I wanted to place them on a Arc Midi Windowed Side panel I've yet to buy. I was wondering if anyone could help me out and give me exact measurements from the window acrylic to the front and down, I was planning to have him make roughly those three on the bottom mock so any help would be greatly appreciated. I work grave so I'm off to be but thanks in advance.











P.S. Don't hate on my mad paint skills............


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Junkboy*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could help me out and give me exact measurements from the window acrylic to the front and down


From the window to the front, there is 16,5 cm. and from the window to the bottom, there is 10,5 cm


----------



## Wasted1ntellect

Just finished placing the on/off switch module in the top of my Core 1000


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wasted1ntellect*
> 
> Just finished placing the on/off switch module in the top of my Core 1000


Really nice mod








What did you Need to do this mod?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Hrm... Well I'm tending toward putting an H100i radiator at the front after all in push/pull (with Scythe Gentle Typhoons), since that's going to be a fairly thick slab to fit at the top otherwise. Not sure if I'd use the top fan openings then. I'm still trying to visualize the best way to set up airflow in that case. On one hand, my GPU is a reference GTX 660 Ti, so it will pull hot air out of the case, and it'd [probably] be good for it to have some high airflow intake fans at the front. On the other hand, maybe the H100i fans will be enough, since my CPU tends to run very cool with it, normally sub 50C in games.
> 
> I've been considering getting an Accelero Mono Plus for my GPU, but then the hot air would be dumped into the case, and with restricted airflow that R4 has, it might actually not help GPU temperatures. Unless I set up 2 exhaust fans at the top?
> 
> So many possibilities. And finally, I wonder how much of a difference it would make to open up the vents at the top and put fans there, as intake or exhaust. It would certainly be quieter with those vents closed, but not if it will choke the GPU. I'm afraid I'll have to play with configurations quite a bit, unless someone's already tested these possibilities to some extent and could comment.


While reading your post The Mod came to my mind..
Maybe you would be interested because it Looks nice and puts out amazing temperatures!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post
> 
> Speaking of fans, would anyone with FD R4 comment on the included fans? I was planning on combining them at the top or at the front for intake, depending on where I put my radiator. Putting a 14cm Phanteks fan into the rear exhaust position. Should I invest in better fans, or are the FD Define R4 ones pretty good?
> 
> 
> 
> I have not been overly impressed by three stock R4 fans, BUT I am also using them behind the front fan filters. This is not a good arrangement as the stock fans are not high static pressure fans and front fans on the R3 / R4 case have a lot of restriction to overcome. My main annoyance is that they are not quiet at all, even dropped to 7 and 5v.
> 
> I also have to give credit where it's due to Fractal: the front fan mount is very secure and doesn't appear to transmit much, if any, vibration to the case or air as audible noise.
Click to expand...

Scan has TY-147 black/white fans on for £5.87 For front fans you will need to mod the by cutting them square. They work very well and fit everywhere else.

The square mod is done by clamping fan on a good miter saw with good carbide blade or on sliding fixture on a table saw and cut just to the inner circle of housing. Could do it with a belt sander too I suppose.. but be very careful about melting plastic.. Done properly you can clip the fan into the R4 front on newly cut sides.


----------



## MiiX

My front for now

Yes, its messy and weird, but This is my test-case


----------



## [email protected]

*H100 to 212+ swap, new RAM heat-sinks, & case lighting this week!*

_Pictures coming soon!_


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> H100 to 212+ swap


Why H100 to 212+?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Why H100 to 212+?


http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/6130#post_19261918

For my setup (2x 680 DCII cards SLI = vents hot air into the case) I get improved systems temps with a 212+ over my H100 (in any configuration, see above post)

I also just happened to have 2 of these on hand (from different test-builds)...I may be in the market for another 120mm tower cooler if there is a better option out there.
(I would have to stick to a single "fin-stack" 120mm unit, as any larger would hit my top card XD)


----------



## BBEG

Thermalright Archon?

I wonder how a top-down cooler would do in your setup.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/6130#post_19261918
> 
> For my setup (2x 680 DCII cards SLI = vents hot air into the case) I get improved systems temps with a 212+ over my H100 (in any configuration, see above post)
> 
> I also just happened to have 2 of these on hand (from different test-builds)...I may be in the market for another 120mm tower cooler if there is a better option out there.
> (I would have to stick to a single "fin-stack" 120mm unit, as any larger would hit my top card XD)


Was that with the H100 set as intake or exhaust? I'm sure you'd see vastly improved results by exhausting with the H100.


----------



## ElevenEleven

What about an intake fan at the bottom of the case too (Define R4 with a window)? Thinking of trying that. My case should be here on Thursday! Unsure if I want to paint it or just use it as is... I'll see how I feel about it when I see it in person


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> From the window to the front, there is 16,5 cm. and from the window to the bottom, there is 10,5 cm


I great many thanks, I appreciate the measurements, I just woke up so sorry for the long delay in giving them.







Thanks you..


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *H100 to 212+ swap, new RAM heat-sinks, & case lighting this week!*
> 
> _Pictures coming soon!_


I'm looking forward to it. I just built a rig for a friend and paired a Hyper 212 EVO with a 3570K and was impressed with the noise/performance. It was just the little bit of reassurance that I needed for wanting to switch from an AIO kit to an air cooler. Since I'm not an extreme overclocker anyway an air cooler will suit me just fine. Sure it doesn't look as cool, but it'll save me money in the long run.









I am still deciding on a good motherboard to purchase from Microcenter when I get my refund. Going to make a little road trip to the nearest one and pick up an 3570K and a mobo. Can't beat that MC price, and even with gas factored in, I'm still coming in cheaper.









Excited to join the Intel side of things!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> Was that with the H100 set as intake or exhaust? I'm sure you'd see vastly improved results by exhausting with the H100.


If you look at my linked post, I used it as both an intake and exhaust. Best system temps are still with the 212+ (All temps and configs are in that post)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> ...Sure it doesn't look as cool, but it'll save me money in the long run.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Idk if it's just me, but aside from a custom water loop, I think a big tower cooler looks much better that an AIO









***Looking into the CM TPC 812, anyone have experience with this cooler/worth the upgrade?***


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Thermalright Archon?


Too large







Mounting either way would 1) cover up RAM slots, or 2) cover up my top PCI-E slot.

I'm looking into the CM TPC 812


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> ***Looking into the CM TPC 812, anyone have experience with this cooler/worth the upgrade?***


I've read some reviews and you'll probably shave off 2-3 degrees.. Its not really worth it to me, but I hate installing CPU coolers and I'm broke so I try to stick one out as long as I can.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I've read some reviews and you'll probably shave off 2-3 degrees.. Its not really worth it to me, but I hate installing CPU coolers and I'm broke so I try to stick one out as long as I can.


2-3C.....yeah, wouldn't be worth it performance-wise....but the top of the cooler looks awesome XD


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I've read some reviews and you'll probably shave off 2-3 degrees.. Its not really worth it to me, but I hate installing CPU coolers and I'm broke so I try to stick one out as long as I can.


2-3C.....yeah, wouldn't be worth it performance-wise....but the top of the cooler looks awesome XD[/quote]

Yea it really does.. The appearance is what drew me to it at first, and the whole vapor chamber things sounds awesome too. Wish the 212 EVO had a fresh top redesign to it. I'm probably going to pick one of them up whenever I get my rig back up. I can't wait.. I miss gaming so baddd!


----------



## stratosrally

Appearance-wise, I've really liked the Xigmatek Dark Knight with Corsair SP120 fans that someone posted... love the flat black.

Also wonder how the new 120mm Phanteks PH-TC12DX would do with those SP120s on it, although the stock fans are reasonably good-looking.

The Phanteks PH-TC14PE looks and performs great, too.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Zalman CNPS12x - looks awesome and performs better than Noctua's big cooler. Someday I'll have a motherboard big enough to accommodate it.



I'm stuck with my mini ITX for a while (moving from a Prodigy build). Will look tiny in my incoming Define R4!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> Appearance-wise, I've really liked the Xigmatek Dark Knight with Corsair SP120 fans that someone posted... love the flat black.
> 
> Also wonder how the new 120mm Phanteks PH-TC12DX would do with those SP120s on it, although the stock fans are reasonably good-looking.
> 
> The Phanteks PH-TC14PE looks and performs great, too.


That black Phanteks with a white ringed SP120 would look so dope! Forgot all about that cooler..


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Zalman CNPS12x - looks awesome and performs better than Noctua's big cooler.


That is _highly_ debatable. In fact, as I recall the first major review of the CNPS12x showed fairly mediocre performance and abysmal performance on high overclocks. I have not heard of any revisions to the unit in question so I'm curious to see what leads you to the conclusion that it competes better than the D14.


----------



## chowyu

does the r4 window case have good airflow my build is

h80
asus p8z77 v lk
gtx 670 msi pe
ax 750w psu modular
ocz ssd 2tb hd
i5 3570k
8gb corsair vengeance ram

planning to overclock and dont want bad airflow


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Scan has TY-147 black/white fans on for £5.87 For front fans you will need to mod the by cutting them square. They work very well and fit everywhere else.
> 
> The square mod is done by clamping fan on a good miter saw with good carbide blade or on sliding fixture on a table saw and cut just to the inner circle of housing. Could do it with a belt sander too I suppose.. but be very careful about melting plastic.. Done properly you can clip the fan into the R4 front on newly cut sides.


If I can find a place with those prices but that ships to the US, I'm sold. Scan doesn't seem to venture outside of the UK. Shopping around now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chowyu*
> 
> does the r4 window case have good airflow my build is
> 
> h80
> asus p8z77 v lk
> gtx 670 msi pe
> ax 750w psu modular
> ocz ssd 2tb hd
> i5 3570k
> 8gb corsair vengeance ram
> 
> planning to overclock and dont want bad airflow


The R4 is one of the most versatile cases out there for airflow. You can set it up in a lot of ways. I'd really like to experiment with a few different fan setups (side-intakes-to-rear-exhaust with and without front fans, top-front and bottom intakes with rear and side exhaust, etc.), but that requires both more fans and work to give me a break long enough to set up a good test station.

*[email protected]*, what RAM did you get? The Samsung stuff is both awesome and _extremely_ low profile; it actually sits a shade lower than the locking tabs that keep it in place, so it might give you more tower heatsink flexibility.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> That is _highly_ debatable. In fact, as I recall the first major review of the CNPS12x showed fairly mediocre performance and abysmal performance on high overclocks. I have not heard of any revisions to the unit in question so I'm curious to see what leads you to the conclusion that it competes better than the D14.


Been a while since I researched that! Looking now, here's what I'm finding, just going by reviews pulled up through TechPowerUp review database:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/zalman-cnps12x_5.html#sect0










Guru3D:
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/zalman_cnps_12x_review,8.html
(2C better than Noctua D14 here, equal to C14)

Hardware Secrets:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Zalman-CNPS12X-CPU-Cooler-Review/1434/6
(worse than C14, better than D14)

FrostyTech: ~1-2 degrees warmer than Noctua but quieter.
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2620&page=4

Plus a major win in the badass look of CNPS12x


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> *[email protected]*, what RAM did you get? The Samsung stuff is both awesome and _extremely_ low profile; it actually sits a shade lower than the locking tabs that keep it in place, so it might give you more tower heatsink flexibility.


I'm sticking with my 16GB (4x 4GB) of Corsair Vengeance.
I just ordered a set of black aluminium low-profile heat spreaders.

I plan to removed the stock spreaders and throw on the generic black ones
If that doesn't work, I can always grab some Vengeance LP or Dominator (removing the top part of the stock heat sinks)


----------



## the petes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Been a while since I researched that! Looking now, here's what I'm finding, just going by reviews pulled up through TechPowerUp review database:
> 
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/zalman-cnps12x_5.html#sect0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guru3D:
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/zalman_cnps_12x_review,8.html
> (2C better than Noctua D14 here, equal to C14)
> 
> Hardware Secrets:
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Zalman-CNPS12X-CPU-Cooler-Review/1434/6
> (worse than C14, better than D14)
> 
> FrostyTech: ~1-2 degrees warmer than Noctua but quieter.
> http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2620&page=4
> 
> Plus a major win in the badass look of CNPS12x


i just cant figure out why no one is ever recommending the zalman over anything else in regards to air cooling. most of the consensus on the interweb is that the noctua D14 out performs ALL heatsinks and in some cases, the famed H100. every test i have seen has been noctua on top and everything below it , meaning higher temps by a couple degrees.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Noctua heatsinks are very good. No doubt about it. This has nothing to do with recommendations though--just pure reviews and comparison tables, which I personally use to help me form a preliminary opinion. (I usually do entirely too much preliminary reading before buying stuff, and at some point I was looking at heatsinks... which is how I happened upon Zalman's CNPS12x).

Zalman stuff is very "proprietary"--like you can't just swap the fans out for something else. That said, I ordered an extra fan from them for my CNPS9900Max (wanted to test something), and it was on the order of ~$5 including shipping, and customer service replies were pretty quick, so no problems with that at least.

CNPS12x was on a ~$45 sale after rebate recently too, so it can be had for a very reasonable price. I used to use Hyper 212+ for my machines, but after I swapped to windowed cases (modded and not), I just couldn't stand the generic look of it anymore. Since there was a discussion here about cool looking heatsinks that perform well, I _had_ to bring up CNPS12x. As much as I love Noctua, if temperatures are going to be that similar, I'd rather have that in my case than D14.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Not sure if anyone else noticed (or cares) but the Node 605 is currently down in price at Newegg... $129.99 + free shipping. Still a bit pricey but not as steep as it was at launch









Wish I could get one of these, but currently in the market for a new video card. Gonna ditch my SLI and go single gpu.


----------



## DatUsername

I'm planning to buy the R4, but I'm not sure should I get the windowed or normal. So guys I turn to you and want to know your opinion of this thing. I'm mainly worried about the sound, due the normal has the foam and the window has just plexi and a bit of foam on the corners. I don't care about the price cause the difference of prices is like 10€. So what is your opinion?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatUsername*
> 
> I'm planning to buy the R4, but I'm not sure should I get the windowed or normal. So guys I turn to you and want to know your opinion of this thing. I'm mainly worried about the sound, due the normal has the foam and the window has just plexi and a bit of foam on the corners. I don't care about the price cause the difference of prices is like 10€. So what is your opinion?


I haven't noticed any difference in noise since I changed to the windowed panel.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Ok, so ideas for painting my incoming white Define R4 with window:

(photos taken from a Google image search)

Rust-Oleum "Berry Pink"



"Colonial Red"



"Apple Red"



Hrm... Colonial Red is pretty great, but I love saturated colors in general, so it's usually a tough choice!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Ok, so ideas for painting my incoming white Define R4 with window:
> Hrm... Colonial Red is pretty great, but I love saturated colors in general, so it's usually a tough choice!


My vote goes for Colonial Red


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> My vote goes for Colonial Red


^ Ditto, and since it's a darker color compared to the other two options it will hide smudges and keep a cleaner look longer in between wipe downs/Data vac 500.


----------



## ervhamzz213

finalizing my build. tomorrow 2 xigmatek xaf white 14cm fans would be mounted on top. 1 140 and 120 fractal silent series r2 infront. and a seagate barracuda 1tb to be mounted under the ssd. credits to ekg for his ssd and hdd mounting method that i copied


----------



## ivoryg37

I've googled around but can't seem to find it. Has anyone put a custom loop in a Fractal Core 3000? Not an All in one but a custom loop


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> finalizing my build. tomorrow 2 xigmatek xaf white 14cm fans would be mounted on top. 1 140 and 120 fractal silent series r2 infront. and a seagate barracuda 1tb to be mounted under the ssd. credits to ekg for his ssd and hdd mounting method that i copied


That's a very nice rig man, a bit sad about the pic quality... if you had better lightning on the PC while you take your pictures that would probably improve them significantly.









There's a great thread with tips that I use here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig/0_20


----------



## ervhamzz213

i
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> That's a very nice rig man, a bit sad about the pic quality... if you had better lightning on the PC while you take your pictures that would probably improve them significantly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a great thread with tips that I use here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/912437/how-to-photograph-your-rig/0_20


i used my wife's macbook for light source.







i got 42 inches monitor but it's just too tiring to bring it down as a light source..


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i used my wife's macbook for light source.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i got 42 inches monitor but it's just too tiring to bring it down as a light source..


Well if you reflect a lamp or something it should do it.


----------



## ervhamzz213

no lamp...







i sleep through the darkness of the night ^;..;^ no seriously, no light source available and i'm so broke nothing to eat at work because of this rig.


----------



## ervhamzz213

no lamp...







i sleep through the darkness of the night ^;..;^ no seriously, no light source available and i'm so broke nothing to eat at work because of this rig.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> no lamp...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i sleep through the darkness of the night ^;..;^ no seriously, no light source available and i'm so broke nothing to eat at work because of this rig.


Well your rig looks awesome, and I hope you're enjoying it! Nothing like living off bread, Ramen noodles, and water.. (sorry, my broke college student-ness is showing)


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Well your rig looks awesome, and I hope you're enjoying it! Nothing like living off bread, Ramen noodles, and water.. (sorry, my broke college student-ness is showing)


yeah dude... ramen+tissue paper rolls+my rig+my bed=happiness. that's the formula of my life.


----------



## kim jong so ill

NCIX currently has a killer deal on the Node 304!

$69.99 + free shipping (not sure if there is tax)


----------



## ervhamzz213

these badboys came but i'm not in the mood for some case opening for today.







too tired from work.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Too large
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounting either way would 1) cover up RAM slots, or 2) cover up my top PCI-E slot.


I have a thermalright macho with his TY140 on an Asus P8Z68 with 4x corsair vengeance low profile: it fits, but just barely.
1st PCI slot is not obstructed, see it here (thre's a soundcard):



Alternatives, Thermalright True Spirit120M or even Macho 120.

MaX.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HornetMaX*
> 
> Alternatives, Thermalright True Spirit120M or even Macho 120.


Yeah, but they're not in the same ballpark.









That's a nice setup you have here... I'd just take out the empty drive slots, and remove the upper drive cage's fittings (they hold by 4x little screws).


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> That's a nice setup you have here... I'd just take out the empty drive slots, and remove the upper drive cage's fittings (they hold by 4x little screws).


Yeah the drive slots (I guess you mean the unused white trays in the lower cage) have been removed since I took the pic, but honestly they were not really blocking anything.
I may want to remove the upper cage fittings though, thanks !

MaX.


----------



## Arnoud87

lets join this club ^^ . Just builded today and had left some overkill power supply
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/563349_336070899843068_225547475_n.jpg

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/152934

Seems like Silverstone's top end just fits easily


----------



## [email protected]

So....I wanted to take some pics this weekend of the cooler replacement + new fans + stuff......

But, I have an old Arc Midi case sitting in my storage room.....and I noticed my R4 window side-panel fits the Arc Midi perfectly....should I swap my main rig from the R4 to the Midi?

Thanks in advance


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> So....I wanted to take some pics this weekend of the cooler replacement + new fans + stuff......
> 
> But, I have an old Arc Midi case sitting in my storage room.....and I noticed my R4 window side-panel fits the Arc Midi perfectly....should I swap my main rig from the R4 to the Midi?
> 
> Thanks in advance


I think you should stay where you're at.. Cooling may be a tiny bit better, but the low noise and the subtle looks is what draws me to the R4. That Midi 2.0 does looks really awesome to me though, but I just can't justify selling my R4 just for a sweet front and top.


----------



## [email protected]

It's an older project case (the front panel has been cleaned up / chopped up and repainted) ......I just think those Corsair AF 140mm's will look awesome in the front panel.







Also, I have always liked the looks of the top of the midi.


----------



## K4IKEN

Yea, the top is definitely a whole lot cleaner. The more I look at the Midi R2, the more I want it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

OH MY GOD, I got my white Define R4 today, and I CANNOT get over how amazing this case is!!! I truly had worries about the cooling capabilities, but it's simply incredible how well it suits my system while providing excellent sound insulation.

I took a lot of photos, because when I was looking into buying this case, there was a very limited number of user images of the white case version. And I had questions, like how glossy is the front panel, what is the case paint texture like? etc. So here are photos and the info on my build.

Empty case:





Powdercoated paint texture:





The case is very glossy, and the front panel is not tacky at all. I was going to get brushed aluminum or wood-textured 3M vinyl and paint the case some other color, but I have now reconsidered and will be keeping it as is! (and I love modding stuff)

Front panel gloss / reflectivity:



Corsair H100i in push/pull configuration with Scythe Gentle Typhoons (120mm) fans, attached to the front panel (I snipped off the plastic grille, as it was meant for 140mm fans and is unnecessary anyway):



H100i installed at the front (tiny motherboard! moving from my Prodigy build)



Intake front the front (H100i) + bottom fan. Bottom fan air and front going up to the reference graphics card fan and getting exhausted out of the case through the GPU shroud. Rear fan in exhaust mode. Top vents closed completely.



2 case fans (Phanteks 140mm and a Scythe Gentle Typhoon at the bottom) at 5V controlled by the case controller. 4 Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans on H100i in push/pull at static 800RPM (4.3GHz i7 3770). CPU stays under 45C while gaming, GPU stays at 70C. Stock reference GPU fan is buzzy, but I can BARELY hear it in this case!!! I am truly amazed.

Bitfenix Recon fan controller



Case closed and under my desk (Eventually going to put in IKEA Dioder lights inside to illuminate the window, but far too exhausted for tonight!)



~Sign me up for diz here club! I could not be happier with this case


----------



## Arnoud87

ye, you cant go wrong with fractal







. even the cheap ass 30 euro design 1000 is top quality


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arnoud87*
> 
> ye, you cant go wrong with fractal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . even the cheap ass 30 euro design 1000 is top quality


Wouldnt say that... After taking it apart, i have found rust on the 5.25" bay holder :\


----------



## VABuckeye

I received a white windowed Define R4 a couple of days ago. I've just started the build and since I just completed another build I will be taking my time with this one. I am extremely impressed by the build quality in a case in this price range. BTW, those doors are freaking heavy! The only things I'd change are the plastic clips attaching the front of the case to the metal and the door removal sustem. Something that swings out and lifts up and off would have been my preference. A great case and a tremendous value.


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Il be building a Fractal Design Arc mini system, specs below:
Asus ROG Maximus V Gene
Intel i7 3770K
Evga Gtx680
Corsair H100i
Samsung 840 series 120GB SSD (OS/Boot drive)
Western Digital VelociRaptor 1TB (10,000 RPM)
Corsair AX760i
G Skill 16GB
Windows 7 Professional








Just purchased the Mobo, CPU and Samsung 840 series 120GB SSD today, il post photos once i receive them in the mail...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> OH MY GOD, I got my white Define R4 today, and I CANNOT get over how amazing this case is!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ~Sign me up for diz here club! I could not be happier with this case


I'm so glad the case worked for you! Build looks great so far!


----------



## lordhinton

well done with the build so far







, i have to admit, your mobo made me giggle in your case







it doesn't look out of place though with other things added


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I'm so glad the case worked for you! Build looks great so far!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordhinton*
> 
> well done with the build so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , i have to admit, your mobo made me giggle in your case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it doesn't look out of place though with other things added


Thanks!! I almost got another, flashier case, but this was Define-tly the right choice









Yeah, the motherboard was a little lost in there, but because I removed the front drive cages, I had limited options of placing my 3 drives. 2 SSDs are velcro'd under the motherboard, and the 2.5" mechanical drive had to go to the right, because of limited SATA cable length. Cable management was already a nightmare, with 3 drives, a fan controller, and H100i, so I couldn't fix any drives to the rear. Limited cable management was the only negative point of this case (well, difficulty of removing dust filters too), because I'm super meticulous about it, and I couldn't get everything arranged neatly enough.


----------



## BBEG

Just ordered 5 TY-147s from Amazon.co.uk. They'll take a few weeks to get here it looks like, but I'm in no hurry and they're $10.4 USD per fan shipped. For perspective, that fan won't sell for less than $15-17 shipped bought in the US. Methinks someone's pricing scheme is a bit funny.









The plan is to set them up in a variety of ways to see what produces the best cooling scheme.

Rear exhaust, top (r) exhaust, top (f) *blocked*, side intake, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
Rear *intake*, top (r) *blocked*, top (f) *exhaust*, side intake, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan *exhausts*; CPU cooler fans reversed
Rear exhaust, top (r) blocked, top (f) intake, side *intake*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
Rear exhaust, top (r) blocked, top (f) intake, side *intake*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
Rear exhaust, top (r) blocked, top (f) intake, side *exhaust*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
Rear *blocked*, top (r) *exhaust*, top (f) intake, side *intake*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
There are several things I'm looking for in this. First, whether I can create CPU and GPU specific cooling zones, and if so, whether they are an improvement over industry-standard front-to-rear cooling schemes and newer 'positive pressure' cooling schemes. I don't believe reversing the flow (rear-to-front) will be useful, but it's worth trying out. There are two constants in this: bottom fan will always be intake, and CPU cooler will always be oriented front-rear. I cannot envision a top-bottom heatsink orientation being at all conducive to creating an organized air flow.

I guess I need something to do with my time before I can afford to drop $400+ on water cooling stuff.


----------



## winniethepwn

Still need to buy another PCIe extension... lol. Once that comes in I'm gonna lose the front IO connectors. They're ugly.





Next step.... water.


----------



## roman59

Moved my system to an R4 last week, really please with it.

At presnet running with 2 140 R2,s in the front, 1 140mm Viper as an exhaust top back & a Corsair H80i on the rear as an exhaust with 2 120mm Vipers in push pull all the Vipers are running of a pwm header & the 140 R2,s on the front are running off the built in fan controller.

Going to be adding a backplate tomorrow onto my Gtx 680.

Getting some really good temperatures when gaming and also when the machine is stiing at the desktop.

Just need to get a side window to finish it all off.

I will post some photos tomorrow at some point.

Cheers all


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winniethepwn*
> 
> Still need to buy another PCIe extension... lol. Once that comes in I'm gonna lose the front IO connectors. They're ugly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next step.... water.


How's that GD65 treating you? I'm considering it as an option for my rig upgrade..


----------



## winniethepwn

No complaints. Nice BIOS imo.

It was cheaper than asrock's offerings at the time, however I don't think that's true anymore.


----------



## K4IKEN

Yea, I played around with the Mpower which has the same Click BIOS set-up and I really enjoyed working with it. Asrock isn't even an option for me. Right now its down to the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H or the GD65.


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Just ordered 5 TY-147s from Amazon.co.uk. They'll take a few weeks to get here it looks like, but I'm in no hurry and they're $10.4 USD per fan shipped. For perspective, that fan won't sell for less than $15-17 shipped bought in the US. Methinks someone's pricing scheme is a bit funny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plan is to set them up in a variety of ways to see what produces the best cooling scheme.
> 
> Rear exhaust, top (r) exhaust, top (f) *blocked*, side intake, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
> Rear *intake*, top (r) *blocked*, top (f) *exhaust*, side intake, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan *exhausts*; CPU cooler fans reversed
> Rear exhaust, top (r) blocked, top (f) intake, side *intake*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
> Rear exhaust, top (r) blocked, top (f) intake, side *intake*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
> Rear exhaust, top (r) blocked, top (f) intake, side *exhaust*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
> Rear *blocked*, top (r) *exhaust*, top (f) intake, side *intake*, bottom intake, with 0/1/2 front fan intakes
> There are several things I'm looking for in this. First, whether I can create CPU and GPU specific cooling zones, and if so, whether they are an improvement over industry-standard front-to-rear cooling schemes and newer 'positive pressure' cooling schemes. I don't believe reversing the flow (rear-to-front) will be useful, but it's worth trying out. There are two constants in this: bottom fan will always be intake, and CPU cooler will always be oriented front-rear. I cannot envision a top-bottom heatsink orientation being at all conducive to creating an organized air flow.


Hey , this is exactly what I was wondering here a few days ago: http://www.overclock.net/t/1360332/5-fans-in-an-arc-midi-with-a-6850-crossfire

I've already tested 4 3 fans setups and 2 5 fans setups.

I'm very interested in separating GPU and CPU areas, I think it should work well.

One thing I''ve learnt: I tested with the side fan intake with and without a home-made filter (pantyhose). Huge difference, kind of 8-10 degrees on hottest GPU ! Maybe a proper filter could fare better, but ...

MaX.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yea, I played around with the Mpower which has the same Click BIOS set-up and I really enjoyed working with it. Asrock isn't even an option for me. Right now its down to the Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H or the GD65.


_Chanting:_ "...Sniper 3 ...Sniper 3 ...Sniper 3 ...Sniper 3 ..."


----------



## K4IKEN

I wish









I am leaning towards the Gigabyte board. Its cheaper, has one PCI lane which will allow me to keep my Xonar, has that dope matte black PBC, and awesome reviews.


----------



## BBEG

Aaaaand build log is started: Project Whisper

Gonna spend some time next week taking pictures, measurements, and drawing up a fan mount for that vertical PCI slot. I can't _believe_ I have 2 days off in a row.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I wish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am leaning towards the Gigabyte board. Its cheaper, has one PCI lane which will allow me to keep my Xonar, has that dope matte black PBC, and awesome reviews.


I have always been a huge fan of Gigabyte when it comes to motherboards.

They have great features, better pricing, and as you mentioned (P67 and newer gen) that sexy matte black finish









They also seem to have fewer issues than other board manufacturers.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Aaaaand build log is started: Project Whisper
> I can't _believe_ I have 2 days off in a row.


I know that feel.









Gonna be watching that build for sure!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Aaaaand build log is started: Project Whisper
> 
> Gonna spend some time next week taking pictures, measurements, and drawing up a fan mount for that vertical PCI slot. I can't _believe_ I have 2 days off in a row.


So detailed and organized already. In for updates!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> They also seem to have fewer issues than other board manufacturers.


Another things that's drawing me to them. At first I was put off by some of the VRMs being heatsink-less, but people are still getting great overclocks with the UD3. I doubt I'll ever take my CPU over 4.5ghz anyway, I have no need to honestly.

I hate seeing my R4 all dead and ish


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I have always been a huge fan of Gigabyte when it comes to motherboards.
> 
> They have great features, better pricing, and as you mentioned (P67 and newer gen) that sexy matte black finish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They also seem to have fewer issues than other board manufacturers.


Sadly not the case for my Z68 board (GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3). After that and an Gigabyte AM3 board, I promised to myself that I will never use Gigabyte again. Love both of my ASRock Z77 boards I've tried though--solid, great BIOSes, no weird moody behavior, and easy to work with overclocks, vs my Gigabyte boards (which had all kinds of POST issues for no good reasons).


----------



## winniethepwn

Can't go wrong either way. My e8400 ran at 4.4 for 3 years on an ep45-ud3p. Still a perfectly working board. Too big for an HTPC though. Not sure what imma do with it.

Went with the gd65 based on looks and size (it doesn't have that standoff issue that asrock boards do, and gigabyte boards were priced horribly back then). Can't really go wrong with a z77 board these days.


----------



## K4IKEN

I'm gonna go with the UD3.. Now I just got to wait on some money to appear in my bank account.









Don't worry, massive pic dump after I pick it up from MC!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I'm gonna go with the UD3.. Now I just got to wait on some money to appear in my bank account.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry, massive pic dump after I pick it up from MC!


Jelly of your MC.

Closest MC to me is nearly 3 hours away (in Chicago)


----------



## Eseuldor

Why the hate on the ASRocks?







Mine has been going strong with no issues. Don't know of this standoff issue you speak of lol

I admit, the PCB color is a bit fugly...


----------



## AbdullahG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Why the hate on the ASRocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has been going strong with no issues. Don't know of this standoff issue you speak of lol
> 
> I admit, the PCB color is a bit fugly...


I don't see any hate, just a mature exchange of experiences and opinions. And it is true that Gigabyte boards tend to offer higher quality parts for their price vs the competitors (not just ASRock).


----------



## winniethepwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Why the hate on the ASRocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has been going strong with no issues. Don't know of this standoff issue you speak of lol
> 
> I admit, the PCB color is a bit fugly...


The extreme4 (the asrock board at my price point) is shorter than regular ATX. It's missing 3 standoffs on the right side, leaving it hanging there with no support.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Jelly of your MC.
> 
> Closest MC to me is nearly 3 hours away (in Chicago)


Well mine is about 1.5 hours away, but its pretty much a straight shot on the highway, so it isn't too bad. This will be my first visit there. Even after factoring in gas I'm still saving money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Why the hate on the ASRocks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has been going strong with no issues. Don't know of this standoff issue you speak of lol
> 
> I admit, the PCB color is a bit fugly...


The Z77 Extreme 4 isn't normal size ATX, its not as wide. That with the combo of the PCB color and their mosfets were a big turn off for me.


----------



## ElevenEleven

No hate on ASRock here at all! <-- Big fan! Super fast post time, very solid BIOSes, very intuitive. Haven't had any problems at all with multiple builds and OSs, and I've used Extreme4 and Z77E-ITX.


----------



## [email protected]

I broke down... (even worse while at work......the downside of a slow Friday and having internet in my squad......)

http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2006&subid=2010#showtab

Should be killer...and should also fit with my case/mobo/graphics setup


----------



## Airrick10

Ok so I finally got my windowed side panel and an led strip for my Arc Midi...here are some pics







Pic Quality is not as good as i hoped but oh well


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I broke down... (even worse while at work......the downside of a slow Friday and having internet in my squad......)
> 
> http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=2006&subid=2010#showtab
> 
> Should be killer...and should also fit with my case/mobo/graphics setup


One of my favorite CPU coolers, where'd you find one though? I though they were discontinued.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> One of my favorite CPU coolers, where'd you find one though? I though they were discontinued.


Newegg has them in-stock


----------



## roman59

Here You Go Guys my R4











Really impressed with the case, hope you folks like it









Cheers all


----------



## ervhamzz213

guys i've got a bit of a problem here. my temps go skyrocketting @ 80~90*C(core temp) on max load @ 4.5ghz on my h60i and 50~60*C on Asus suite i dunno where to really base my temps but i don't wan't those high temps.







i did an OC of 5ghz @ 1.4V before and never get 80*C on core temp on my custom loop. i'm wondering if it is my h60i or just the core temp being buggy.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Swapped out my incredibly noisy 560 ti 448's for this bad boy











My R4 is much quieter now (as it was meant to be!)

Would post some rig pics, but my case is really dusty (removing the front filter was a bad move







). Waiting on my Metro ED-500 to be delivered so I can clean it out.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> guys i've got a bit of a problem here. my temps go skyrocketting @ 80~90*C(core temp) on max load @ 4.5ghz on my h60i and 50~60*C on Asus suite i dunno where to really base my temps but i don't wan't those high temps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i did an OC of 5ghz @ 1.4V before and never get 80*C on core temp on my custom loop. i'm wondering if it is my h60i or just the core temp being buggy.


Did you reseat the cooler already? do you use the dot method?


----------



## roman59

I would say the pump is not seated properly on the cpu, undo the thumbscrews & give it a slight twist you should feel the thermal paste against the cpu.

Then do up the thumbscrews & all should be ok.

Hope this helps

Cheers all


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Did you reseat the cooler already? do you use the dot method?


exactly what i've done. dot method and yes i changed case a few weeks ago.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> exactly what i've done. dot method and yes i changed case a few weeks ago.


Re-seat again and when removing the heatsink, check the distribution of "old" thermal paste on the CPU and the pump heat plate. You may see that the contact was not too good. You may need to compensate for surface unevennes and lack of completely straight and flat contact and use a bit more paste or change how you apply the paste.


----------



## Malik

Some news in project:

- front radiator custom mount: ready


----------



## K4IKEN

Top notch as always! I really love the tone you bring with the photo editing, looks amazing.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Top notch as always! I really love the tone you bring with the photo editing, looks amazing.


I second this


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Some news in project:
> 
> - front radiator custom mount: ready
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good man! Now lets see it tubed up with some coolant running through it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Swapped out my incredibly noisy 560 ti 448's for this bad boy


There ya go!







I have much love for the 680









*UPDATES*

On another note, while I wait for my Megahalems, RAM heatsinks..... I went out this morning and found some nice green RustOleum *cough* happens to match the Sniper 3 board _perfectly_ *cough*

All my Corsair AF/SP fan rings have been painted....any other components I should paint in the case?......pictures incoming this week


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> On another note, while I wait for my Megahalems, RAM heatsinks..... I went out this morning and found some nice green RustOleum *cough* happens to match the Sniper 3 board _perfectly_ *cough*


Since I"m not painting my case (for now)--and I was really looking forward to doing that--I will now be waiting for photos of someone else painting stuff







*hint*


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> All my Corsair AF/SP fan rings have been painted....any other components I should paint in the case?......pictures incoming this week


I think that'll be good enough, since its such a bright color you don't want to overdo it. Keeping it subtle is the way to go.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I think that'll be good enough, since its such a bright color you don't want to overdo it. Keeping it subtle is the way to go.


Well, all (7) rings are done, and sitting out in my garage. Waiting on my LP RAM heatsinks, I think I will paint the small metal clips and leave it at that









The paint is glossy and looks much lighter that the saturation of the green on the board.....meh, still looks nice (and should follow the theme)


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Hey guys, I got a pretty big question. I just got my XL R2 yesterday and its a pretty sick case, and its HUGE. But I have a pretty huge problem with it as well. It appears as though either my mobo tray is too far back, or the PCI mount points are too far away from my mobo. What I mean is, when I try and plug in any of my PCI cards (GTX 470, X-fi or my gt 610) they don't really go 100% into the mobo. My X-fi does fit perfectly, prob because its only a 4x, but my two video cards just don't quite make it correctly. I was able to work it a bit and get my GTX 470 in pretty comfortably, but the GT 610 is still just in the slot, too the point where im surprsed the pins are making contact at all.

I think it could be easily fixed with mobo standoffs that are about 1/8 inch taller, anyone hear of this issue or know if there are longer standoffs I could buy. I really don't want to return this case to Fractal because rebuilding it in my old tower would be really annoying (the entire reason I switches was because I put a Antec kuhler 620 on my 470 and there wasn't really a rad mount on my old case)

I could try and bend the mobo tray, but that just won't ever be right... Any suggestions?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I think that'll be good enough, since its such a bright color you don't want to overdo it. Keeping it subtle is the way to go.


Agreed.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> There ya go!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have much love for the 680


Oh man, I am already in love with my 680 too









Case seems a little empty now running only one card lol.

Just a quick pic taken.



Gonna have to clean up my cabling... again...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Oh man, I am already in love with my 680 too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case seems a little empty now running only one card lol.


That's its way of telling you to get a 2nd card







.....I had that EXACT ordeal some time ago.....


----------



## [email protected]

*Painting is done*

Sorry for the poor lighting/quality of my phone












I hope it looks good with the board


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *{EAC} Shoot em UP*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a pretty big question. I just got my XL R2 yesterday and its a pretty sick case, and its HUGE. But I have a pretty huge problem with it as well. It appears as though either my mobo tray is too far back, or the PCI mount points are too far away from my mobo. What I mean is, when I try and plug in any of my PCI cards (GTX 470, X-fi or my gt 610) they don't really go 100% into the mobo. My X-fi does fit perfectly, prob because its only a 4x, but my two video cards just don't quite make it correctly. I was able to work it a bit and get my GTX 470 in pretty comfortably, but the GT 610 is still just in the slot, too the point where im surprsed the pins are making contact at all.
> 
> I think it could be easily fixed with mobo standoffs that are about 1/8 inch taller, anyone hear of this issue or know if there are longer standoffs I could buy. I really don't want to return this case to Fractal because rebuilding it in my old tower would be really annoying (the entire reason I switches was because I put a Antec kuhler 620 on my 470 and there wasn't really a rad mount on my old case)
> 
> I could try and bend the mobo tray, but that just won't ever be right... Any suggestions?


Was the packaging of your case damaged? Could the case have been bent in shipping? I'd contact Fractal Design and explain your situation, as I am unaware of different length standoffs...

I'm hoping to get that case myself - the reviews I've read have been great.

If you get a chance and don't mind helping a forum member out - could you tell me if a 200mm long PSU would still allow the bottom 140mm fan mount to be used?

I'm assuming you're using the TX750 Corsair PSU in yours - mine is a HX1000 and is 40mm longer.

I plan on moving the rear 140mm fan to the bottom for an extra intake because I have a H60 that I will use as a push/pull exhaust in the rear.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Painting is done*
> 
> Sorry for the poor lighting/quality of my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it looks good with the board


Should look perfect.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> Was the packaging of your case damaged? Could the case have been bent in shipping? I'd contact Fractal Design and explain your situation, as I am unaware of different length standoffs...
> 
> I'm hoping to get that case myself - the reviews I've read have been great.
> 
> If you get a chance and don't mind helping a forum member out - could you tell me if a 200mm long PSU would still allow the bottom 140mm fan mount to be used?
> 
> I'm assuming you're using the TX750 Corsair PSU in yours - mine is a HX1000 and is 40mm longer.
> 
> I plan on moving the rear 140mm fan to the bottom for an extra intake because I have a H60 that I will use as a push/pull exhaust in the rear.


I can't measure it right now, but yea I am using a tx 750 in there and there is a lot of room. Also, I went to a hardware store and got some washers, and honestly now its perfect. The case doesn't seem to be damaged, so maybe whoever was riveting my case messed up just slightly. Nothing washers didn't fix. The standoffs still thread 100% of the mobo tray, so im not worried about integrity at all. Here are a few pics of my rig so you can try and judge the PSU length situation, but it should fit without any issues.

Also, it comes with three 140 fans, already has one in the bottom. I moved my rear one to the front which gives dual front intakes and single bottom intake in order to make room for my H50 on the CPU and Antec 620 on my GPU. The included fans don't seem to move too much air, but honestly they are fine. My GTX 470 is using MAX volts (1.087) at 860 Mhz core and 1950 mem and on the antec 620 its maxing at about 54c, which means I have plenty of cooling goin on in there... 42% OC on 4xx series card, im pretty happy heat is no longer an issue!


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Hey guys, joined this site VERY VERY recently. I have a couple questions regarding the Define R4. Just how good is the airflow in this case? How does it compare to a more "generic" case with more open vents and such? What is the difference in noise when using this case as opposed to a more gaming oriented case with open vents? If you had to pick between the new upcoming Arc Midi R2 (which is pretty much the same with some new improvements) and this case which would it be and why? Thank you for your time people.

Edit: Forgot to mention, can someone please give temps of their components when using these cases? (R4 and Midi)


----------



## ElevenEleven

Depends on your components. It's doing wonders for my set up with an Ivy i7 with H100i in push/pull (front intake) and a reference GTX 660 Ti. And I only have the bottom intake fan in addition to the radiator fans. Top vents are closed. Result is a very quiet case and GPU temps went up only by 3 degrees from previous loud case. I'm not using the stock fans that came with the case and still experimenting with rear exhaust / bottom intake fans (which kind to keep). If you have a non-reference GPU that blows hot air into the case, your set up might be different.


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention, can someone please give temps of their components when using these cases? (R4 and Midi)


I have an R4 and my cpu stays below 35C under load and my gpu stays under 65C. Nothing is overclocked but I'm running my fans on 7V and I could add 3 more if needed. I have a Silverstone FHP-141 140mm fan at the top for exhaust and one at the bottom for intake then a Corsair AF140 at the back for exhaust.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Thanks for the help guys, so how about noise? I see a lot of you are using quiet fans with it. How does this compare to a more open vented case WITH quiet fans?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> Thanks for the help guys, so how about noise? I see a lot of you are using quiet fans with it. How does this compare to a more open vented case WITH quiet fans?


I'd recommend looking for reviews of this case, which can show comparisons.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Thanks guys.


----------



## BBEG

There are less openings for sound to escape from in the R4 than the Arc. This means there is more material absorbing energy from the sound waves. Sound will still escape, but less of it and only from certain areas.

You were, however, pretty close to the main requirement of quiet systems: quiet parts. The quieter the components, the quieter the system, meaning a case conducive to 'quiet' will not tame loud system. Having said that, a system built in an R4 will generally quieter than an equivalent system in an Arc.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Anybody else got an R4, H80i and a 4.5GHz 2500K?

If so what's your idle and max temp please?

I'm getting an idle temp of late 30's to low 40's and a max temp of mid 70's.

My Midi used to idle at late 20's and max temp was mid 60's (although that was the H100)

Quite tempted to install my D14 and see if I can get lower temps but it's so huge on my matx board that it just touches the graphics card


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Anybody else got an R4, H80i and a 4.5GHz 2500K?
> If so what's your idle and max temp please?
> I'm getting an idle temp of late 30's to low 40's and a max temp of mid 70's.
> My Midi used to idle at late 20's and max temp was mid 60's (although that was the H100)
> Quite tempted to install my D14 and see if I can get lower temps but it's so huge on my matx board that it just touches the graphics card


I had a similar problem (I was using an H100) my temps were not as high, but I ended up going back to a tower cooler.

DCII cards are amazing, but they exhaust all their hot air into the case. (I'm running 2x 680 DCII's) A Hyper 212+ dropped my temps (on both my CPU and GPU's)

I have a Megahalems Black in the mail......I'm hoping I will get even better performance out of it.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I had a similar problem (I was using an H100) my temps were not as high, but I ended up going back to a tower cooler.
> 
> DCII cards are amazing, but they exhaust all their hot air into the case. (I'm running 2x 680 DCII's) A Hyper 212+ dropped my temps (on both my CPU and GPU's)
> 
> I have a Megahalems Black in the mail......I'm hoping I will get even better performance out of it.


Thanks for the reply. I'm really tempted by the Red Megahalems purely because it's Black and Red. I might wait until some of my stuff sells on ebay and then buy it. What fans are you going to put on it?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm really tempted by the Red Megahalems purely because it's Black and Red. I might wait until some of my stuff sells on ebay and then buy it. What fans are you going to put on it?


Going to use a pair of Corsair SP 120mm's (most likely on 7v).

I was looking for a decent tower cooler, but for us guys using an E-ATX board, most BIG coolers (D14, Silver Arrow, ect.) are out, due to the fact that they hit the top PCI-E slot

The Megahalems sounds like a prime choice, it's an "oldie" but still considered a staple of big-air cooling.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Going to use a pair of Corsair SP 120mm's (most likely on 7v).
> 
> I was looking for a decent tower cooler, but for us guys using an E-ATX board, most BIG coolers (D14, Silver Arrow, ect.) are out, due to the fact that they hit the top PCI-E slot
> 
> The Megahalems sounds like a prime choice, it's an "oldie" but still considered a staple of big-air cooling.


If my SP120s don't sell then I'll use them (7V like you) or AP-15s.

It is indeed an oldie but it's still going strong.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Anybody else got an R4, H80i and a 4.5GHz 2500K?
> 
> If so what's your idle and max temp please?
> 
> I'm getting an idle temp of late 30's to low 40's and a max temp of mid 70's.
> 
> My Midi used to idle at late 20's and max temp was mid 60's (although that was the H100)
> 
> Quite tempted to install my D14 and see if I can get lower temps but it's so huge on my matx board that it just touches the graphics card


Idle is low-mid 30's and just under 70c on load. I have my fan profiles set to "balanced" in Corsair Link


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Idle is low-mid 30's and just under 70c on load. I have my fan profiles set to "balanced" in Corsair Link


Thanks for the comparison. Those temps are with all my fans running at full whack so I think my H80i isn't seated properly or my airflow is poor.

I have 2x Fractal 140mm fans in the front as intake, H80i with AP-15s on the rear as intake, 1x Fractal 140mm fan as exhaust in the roof (front slot) but I have been playing with fan orientations today and nothing seems to improve the temps.

Tomorrow I'll install the D14 and if it is better then I'll buy the Megahalems because it is about 10mm shorter than the D14 so it won't touch my graphics card backplate.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Thanks for the comparison. Those temps are with all my fans running at full whack so I think my H80i isn't seated properly or my airflow is poor.
> 
> I have 2x Fractal 140mm fans in the front as intake, H80i with AP-15s on the rear as intake, 1x Fractal 140mm fan as exhaust in the roof (front slot) but I have been playing with fan orientations today and nothing seems to improve the temps.
> 
> Tomorrow I'll install the D14 and if it is better then I'll buy the Megahalems because it is about 10mm shorter than the D14 so it won't touch my graphics card backplate.


I also dropped my temps by using Corsair AF140's as intakes. The stock Fractal fans are whisper quiet...but they don't move nearly as much air as the Corsair fans.

(2x) AF140's as intakes, (2x) AF140's top exhaust, (1x) AF140 rear exhaust, and (2x) SP120's on the heatsink. Temps are awesome


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I also dropped my temps by using Corsair AF140's as intakes. The stock Fractal fans are whisper quiet...but they don't move nearly as much air as the Corsair fans.
> 
> (2x) AF140's as intakes, (2x) AF140's top exhaust, (1x) AF140 rear exhaust, and (2x) SP120's on the heatsink. Temps are awesome


I was running 2x AF140s in the front, 1 in the roof and 2x SP120 HP on the H80i but I removed them to test and found that the temps stayed roughly the same and it was quieter with AP-15s and stock fans.

The AF140s sounded like they were being restricted by the front door and the grill in the roof and used to whistle slightly and because my PC is about 2 feet from my ear on top of my desk it got on my nerves. To get rid of the whistle I made a makeshift 25mm shroud from a broken AF140 but it looked terrible.


----------



## Rylen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I had a similar problem (I was using an H100) my temps were not as high, but I ended up going back to a tower cooler.
> 
> DCII cards are amazing, but they exhaust all their hot air into the case. (I'm running 2x 680 DCII's) A Hyper 212+ dropped my temps (on both my CPU and GPU's)
> 
> I have a Megahalems Black in the mail......I'm hoping I will get even better performance out of it.


Black Megahelms FTW









Here is mine


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rylen*


Someone is a big fan of Malik's work







Still, looks nice


----------



## stratosrally

Man, that Megahalem looks wicked in there.

It and the Xigmatek Dark Night are really improved in appearance by switching to Corsair fans...


----------



## Rylen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> Someone is a big fan of Malik's work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, looks nice


Hahaha.

I was actually planning a SP120 and either a Megahelms or H100i, but than i saw Maliks air build and decided on the Megahelms.


----------



## Rylen

Double post


----------



## eBombzor

Can anyone help me with my fan config? My GPU temps are 73 C. My current fan config is one intake at the bottom and another intake in the front (with the hard drive cage rotated). I have no exhaust fan b/c my Evo will do that job just fine.

How do I lower the GPU temps?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Try changing your bottom fan to exhaust. Is your Define R4 with a side window or a side fan vent? If side fan vent, try setting that one to exhaust and bottom to intake. Non-reference GPU designs have their fans blow hot air out into the case, so it helps more to exhaust that hot air so as to not recycle it through the GPU.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Try changing your bottom fan to exhaust. Is your Define R4 with a side window or a side fan vent? If side fan vent, try setting that one to exhaust and bottom to intake. Non-reference GPU designs have their fans blow hot air out into the case, so it helps more to exhaust that hot air so as to not recycle it through the GPU.


I have the side fan vent. I don't really want to remove the vent b/c it'll create more noise. I'll try the bottom fan as an exhaust. Thanks for the help.

Here's a pic


----------



## ElevenEleven

The GPU fans will be exhausting to the sides of the card, so it's better to have the side vent with an exhaust fan, but try exhausting from the bottom, yeah. Next step would be trying bottom as intake and side vent as exhaust--at least as an experiment. You _should_ also attach a rear exhaust fan to help guide the air out. It might help in this case, because your CPU heatsink is pretty far away from the far grille, and the grille itself is not an empty cut-out hole but has metal mesh that blocks the airflow hitting it casually. I've seen recommendations to avoid rear exhaust fans and allow CPU fans guide the air out, but cutting out the rear grille is one of the things that should be done along with that, which you are not doing.


----------



## K4IKEN

That blue Mega looks great and would really tie in with my future UD3H. Definitely going to save up for it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rylen*
> 
> Black Megahelms FTW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is mine


Fantastic









Really can't wait for my Megahalems now


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I have the side fan vent. I don't really want to remove the vent b/c it'll create more noise. I'll try the bottom fan as an exhaust. Thanks for the help.


I agree with Eleven.
I would add a rear exhaust fan (which should greatly improve moving hot GPU exhaust out of your case).
I would also remove the top HDD cage if it's not being populated by any drives (to improve airflow).


----------



## eBombzor

So should I just move my bottom intake fan to the rear?


----------



## ElevenEleven

I would add fans. 2 140mm intake at the front, no middle drive cage, and the rest as suggested.


----------



## rovert19

Does anyone know what kind of bulb is used for the power led in the define r3? I would like to change it to a white one. Also how difficult is it to mod it?


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I would add fans. 2 140mm intake at the front, no middle drive cage, and the rest as suggested.


But for the fans I have right now, one front intake and one rear exhaust? I also feel a lot of air exhausting the back of my card, in front of the front intake. Should I use the front as an exhaust instead?

So two options:

1 front in, 1 rear ex

1 front ex, 1 bottom intake

How many fans should I buy? I'll try to get order them in 2 weeks. Should I populate all the fan slots or could I get away with just populating the 2 front and rear? Do I need a bottom fan too? Also I want to keep my side vents and top vents closed.

Thanks a lot.

Oh and what kinds of fans should I buy?

One more question. Will flipping the PSU fan to the top make a difference?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Well, 2 intake fans at the front and one exhaust at the rear are a good start, as is completely taking out the middle drive cage. From there, experiment with additional fans. As for flipping the PSU, it would mean running hot air through it to cool the PSU, which would lower efficiency somewhat. I'm not sure if it would reduce its lifespan, but it could potentially speed up its own cooling fan, depending on if its programmed to respond to higher temperatures as well as loads.

As for which fans to choose, there are lots of options. Unsure what your price range would be. I have actually yet to try the stock fans that came with my R4, as I had better ones, and according to some reports, the FD fans could be improved upon. I might hook one up to a fan controller tomorrow to test.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Well, 2 intake fans at the front and one exhaust at the rear are a good start, as is completely taking out the middle drive cage. From there, experiment with additional fans. As for flipping the PSU, it would mean running hot air through it to cool the PSU, which would lower efficiency somewhat. I'm not sure if it would reduce its lifespan, but it could potentially speed up its own cooling fan, depending on if its programmed to respond to higher temperatures as well as loads.
> 
> As for which fans to choose, there are lots of options. Unsure what your price range would be.


I want 2 more fans. I'll keep the stock fans for the intake at the front. So the 2 others will go on the bottom and rear. I have $25 for both.

I'm going to try to use the front intake as an exhaust and see if I get better performance.

Are you sure removing the HDD cage will be better? The manual from the R4 says that if you rotate the cage, air will be guided to the GPU. And the rotated cage is pretty free and unrestrictive.

I'm also going to try no front intake, on bottom intake, and one rear exhaust. The GPU is exhausting against the front so I don't think the front is helping much, and I don't think using the front as an exhaust is a good idea in this case.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Where is the air going to come from If you also exhaust from the front? Unfiltered rear grille and PCI-E covers? Bad idea, not to mention the odd paths this will create.

What is the point of the empty drive cage being left inside? It will obstruct air flow and create turbulence simply by sitting in front of the front fans vs an empty space.


----------



## eBombzor

Well I was thinking I could use the bottom as an intake and the rear as an exhaust, ignoring the front.

TBH, I don't know anywhere to put the cage outside of the case lol.

This doesn't seem that restrictive tho.


----------



## ElevenEleven

That's just logic based on my Physics and Astronomy degrees. But! I'd encourage you to experiment anyway and find the best set up that works for you. And it will provide you with intuition for future adventures with balancing airflow, temperatures, and noise.


----------



## Eseuldor

It may also be worth looking in to removing both cages altogether. Just looking at the pics you posted there would be nothing stopping you from relocating both drives to different spots and improving air flow even further.


----------



## VABuckeye

I know it's oversimplification but hot air rises. There is no way on earth I'd put exhaust fans in the bottom of the case or the front (which are lower than the back and top).


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> ...That's just logic based on my Physics and Astronomy degrees...


LOL. Now THAT"S awesome!

/ElevenElevenismyhomeboy

<- Also, it's this guys Birthday


----------



## jassilamba

Hey Guy/Gals.

Here is my node that I got for doing a 



, and I will say I really like their build quality....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Hey Guy/Gals.
> 
> Here is my node that I got for doing a
> 
> 
> 
> , and I will say I really like their build quality....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Just watched it. You are a very funny person! Also nice build. Definitely going to be my case for a media server.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Just watched it. You are a very funny person! Also nice build. Definitely going to be my case for a media server.


Thanks mate.

It is a really nice case for a media server. I just ordered a Silverstone SSF450-G PSU and waiting for water cooling stuff to arrive so that I can complete this build and start working on my next one.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Hey Guy/Gals.
> 
> Here is my node that I got for doing a
> 
> 
> 
> , and I will say I really like their build quality....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome review!


----------



## jcamp6336

Few updated shots of the rig currently, bad cell phone pics i know.

Just ordered my crimping stuff i need to finish the 8pin PCIe cables, so once its all done ill post some proper pics.


----------



## blue-cat

just bought my fractal r4 white with usb3 and window









Was only £72 shipped so feel like I've saved about £20 at least.
Now to buy my phanteks and get on selling my HAF932 and water cooling









Or has anyone got a triple rad up top without mods? It would just be til easter when I can sort things out.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Few updated shots of the rig currently, bad cell phone pics i know.
> 
> Just ordered my crimping stuff i need to finish the 8pin PCIe cables, so once its all done ill post some proper pics.


Love this! Hopefully mine will look similar but Orange


----------



## Mysticode

AF140's at full 12V can be loud to some people. If you drop them to 7V, I am not sure how much better the airflow will be than the stock Fractal fans?


----------



## jcamp6336

i run all 3 of my case fans at 5v


----------



## Mysticode

You mean the AF140's, right? Any idea how much air they push at 5V? That's a pretty slow fan speed for an already pretty slow fan.


----------



## jcamp6336

Not sure, but i get pretty good temps with a 2600k at 4.5 and a 680 Lightning OC'd to 1320mhz while gaming. So its more than enough for the R4


----------



## Mysticode

If you put them up to 7V, do you hear a noticeable difference?

I found a youtube vid once comparing the speed on them at different voltages, and it really only got somewhat louder than the base silent state at around 11.5V


----------



## jcamp6336

7v is not much of a difference in terms of noise. At 12v you hear the fans for sure, but its still not that loud, i just like mine as quiet as possible.


----------



## Mysticode

Ah, thanks for the response.

Have you completely swapped out the stock R2 fans then with AF140s?


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Just received the first couple parts of my Arc mini build








More pictures to come


----------



## dumafourlife

Very nice components! I'm thinking of a mini build as well but not sure if I want to go arc mini or core 1000


----------



## ElevenEleven

Tested the FD R4 fans today, and I'm very impressed! They are actually really good as case airflow fans. Barely audible at 700RPM while still moving a good amount of air across ~20cm distance. 800RPM is slightly audible, but airflow is even better. Even at max RPM they are quiet. I think I might like them more than my 140mm Phanteks, but I'll do more testing with that. They are not as silent as something like Noctua NF-S12B ULN at max RPM, of course, but they also move a lot more air while being almost as quiet.

Swapped my bottom intake fan with one of these 140mm FD fans, and my reference GPU dropped temperature by 2-4C at load







Thumbs up!


----------



## eBombzor

I moved the bottom intake to the rear for exhaust and moved the front fan to the bottom front. I get the exact same results :/


----------



## Mysticode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I moved the bottom intake to the rear for exhaust and moved the front fan to the bottom front. I get the exact same results :/


You didn't have a rear exhaust?


----------



## jcamp6336

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Ah, thanks for the response.
> 
> Have you completely swapped out the stock R2 fans then with AF140s?


Actually i'm only using the af140 as exhaust. The 2 front intake are stock fractals and i like them, honestly with this case theres no reason to upgrade. Im even thinking of getting another fractal to replace the af140 just cause it looks cleaner imo. Also the AF140s dont really fit securely in the front fan mounting thing.

That being said, the AF140s will perform better and quieter, but it costs more than twice as much as the fractal fans iirc.


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> Very nice components! I'm thinking of a mini build as well but not sure if I want to go arc mini or core 1000


Yeah I looked at going with the core 1000, my only issue is that it doesn't support a dual 120 rad in the top of the case. As my build i will be using water cooling.







By doing a custom water-cooling loop i hope to hit 4.5ghz or 5ghz


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I moved the bottom intake to the rear for exhaust and moved the front fan to the bottom front. I get the exact same results :/


More fans^


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> ...Also the AF140s dont really fit securely in the front fan mounting thing...That being said, the AF140s will perform better and quieter, but it costs more than twice as much as the fractal fans iirc...


You can use the mounting holes to screw the fans in place. (I use AF140's as intakes, secures them so they don't come loose if you move your case)


----------



## ElevenEleven

Was able to test Noctua NF-A140 FLX and ULN today, and while they were definitely very good fans, I'd only run them at ~800-900RPM for my quiet build, at which speed they are roughly equivalent to the stock Define R4 fans in airflow (subjectively).


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Or has anyone got a triple rad up top without mods? It would just be til easter when I can sort things out.


Based on my measurements, an R4 cannot fit a triple rad anywhere without modification.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I moved the bottom intake to the rear for exhaust and moved the front fan to the bottom front. I get the exact same results :/
> 
> 
> 
> You didn't have a rear exhaust?
Click to expand...

No. I only had a front intake and a bottom intake. I used my Evo as an exhaust.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> Very nice components! I'm thinking of a mini build as well but not sure if I want to go arc mini or core 1000


I use the Core 1000 and I do reccomend it for low-cost and space builds.
If you are going with a GPU with a refferance/blower design, 1k is awesome. I reccomend not running a say h80in the front as that is the only way for a GPU to get air. Unless you cut out a home for air in the bottom of the case


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Based on my measurements, an R4 cannot fit a triple rad anywhere without modification.


Ah, okay. Thanks BBEG, The seller is trying to make me buy outside of eBay through their website and only offering giftcard refunds so the sale might fall through


----------



## kbc8090

Arc Midi R2 Review up!


----------



## ElevenEleven

I'm personally disappointed they put a logo onto the grill and removed the cool embossed logo they had on the original version. It looked a lot classier in its original iteration, in my opinion.


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Im looking at doing the new Swiftech H220 in the Arc mini, with an over clock of 4.6ghz. Just trying to think if il have any issues trying to fit the H220 rad in the top of the Arc mini..?








Anyone know were sleeved cables for Corsair AX760i can be brought?


----------



## HornetMaX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VABuckeye*
> 
> I know it's oversimplification but hot air rises. There is no way on earth I'd put exhaust fans in the bottom of the case or the front (which are lower than the back and top).


I think others will be able to confirm this is not an oversimplification, it's a HUGE oversimplification. Hot air rises, unless you have the smallest flow, in which case hot air will go wherever the flow will dictate. If you have hot air in the bottom area, an exhaust fan may make sense. I think it depends a lot on your GPU cooling system, where it spits hot air.

I have 2 Asus 6850 DC, they spit a lot of hot air at their back (i.e. towards the case front). I can definitely tell you that a front exhaust (especially the upper front) may make sense: if I leave that spot without a fan, I can definitely feel the hot air coming out from the front ... if you wait for this hot air to rise it will get caught by the CPU fan, not a great plan knowing what generates more heat is today the GPU in general ,,,

MaX.

P.S.
At home I have convertible air conditioning (hot/cold) and the air vents are ... close to the roof ...


----------



## DJKAY

The time when you see, that there is no need for ATX.



Anyone is intersted in a ARC MIDI shipped from Germany?


Spoiler: More



Modificated Window (Thumbscrews aren´t usable anymore on the left pannel, White painted front and top-mesh (comes with an extra top and front-meshpannel)
Just PM


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbc8090*
> 
> Arc Midi R2 Review up!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Saw this last night. Pretty cool that it can handle those thick rads with no mods.


----------



## HmoobYaj87

Hi yall.. Arc midi r2 at walmart for cheap.. not sure if it's real but try it out. got ordered myself one. hopefully its true tho.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fractal-Design-Arc-Midi-Computer-Case-with-Window-and-Side-Panel/23261989


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HmoobYaj87*
> 
> Hi yall.. Arc midi r2 at walmart for cheap.. not sure if it's real but try it out. got ordered myself one. hopefully its true tho.
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fractal-Design-Arc-Midi-Computer-Case-with-Window-and-Side-Panel/23261989


If you google the model number (Model No.: FDACWNDDEF4ARCB) in the description you'll get this: http://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Window-Side-Panel-Midi/dp/B00B8XI30M


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HmoobYaj87*
> 
> Hi yall.. Arc midi r2 at walmart for cheap.. not sure if it's real but try it out. got ordered myself one. hopefully its true tho.
> 
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fractal-Design-Arc-Midi-Computer-Case-with-Window-and-Side-Panel/23261989


That has to be a mistake but I ordered one for the hell of it. Still not sure what I'll do with it if I do get one but for $27 shipped it's a steal.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> That has to be a mistake but I ordered one for the hell of it. Still not sure what I'll do with it if I do get one but for $27 shipped it's a steal.


^^^^^^ In for one!

Should get a price match on this before they fix it!


----------



## dumafourlife

^ I saw a post for it on slickdeals and the guys over there are saying its not the case. Just the side panel with window.


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> ^ I saw a post for it on slickdeals and the guys over there are saying its not the case. Just the side panel with window.


We already know that the model no. is for the side panel. Also, if you look at the dimensions and the questions people asked, clearly they refer to the side panel. However, the item name, description, and image are for a full case. I don't think they can just send people the side panel and leave it at that.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> We already know that the model no. is for the side panel. Also, if you look at the dimensions and the questions people asked, clearly they refer to the side panel. However, the item name, description, and image are for a full case. I don't think they can just send people the side panel and leave it at that.


And in worst case scenario it can be returned if when you go pick it up (there is walmart less than a mile from my house) and its just the side panel.


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbc8090*
> 
> Arc Midi R2 Review up!


I totally agree with him... we need a white Midi! I really want to try a custom water loop with a white/cyan color scheme


----------



## K4IKEN

A white midi would be pretty nice. I remember someone on here doing a pretty cool looking mod with the midi, but I don't think it was ever completed. I hate when that happens.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> I totally agree with him... we need a white Midi! I really want to try a custom water loop with a white/cyan color scheme


I like the way you think. White and Cyan would be sexy as none other and


http://imgur.com/gOsyw

.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> I totally agree with him... we need a white Midi! I really want to try a custom water loop with a white/cyan color scheme
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like the way you think. White and Cyan would be sexy as none other and
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/gOsyw
> 
> .
Click to expand...

HOLY CRAP that keyboard is SO sexy.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> I like the way you think. White and Cyan would be sexy as none other and
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/gOsyw
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> HOLY CRAP that keyboard is SO sexy.


This thing is epic !!!!


----------



## DJKAY

Double post.


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> I like the way you think. White and Cyan would be sexy as none other and
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/gOsyw
> 
> .










Anyway to mod a Ducky DK9087 into that? Aluminum housing + cyan spray paint + white keycaps


----------



## gopanthersgo1

If I want a real silent watercooled PC, should I get the r4 with the Window, I love the look, but it supposedly has a lot of hdd noise...


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> If I want a real silent watercooled PC, should I get the r4 with the Window, I love the look, but it supposedly has a lot of hdd noise...


HDD noise is, in and of itself, HDD noise. Sure, having the window present will reduce it's effectiveness at containing sound within the case itself, but nowadays if your HDD's are loud, this should not be blamed on the case. No matter which case you have.

I do not have the windowed version and I do not even have a platter of any type in this rig at all. But I have been all touchy feely with a few co-worker rigs at our lan parties (I like to get hands-on but I stay within reason







) and you can't hear there HDD's.

As noted, this applies to all cases in my opinion. My CM690 II Black Steel (which practically bleeds sound) has been converted in to a server and has 6 3tb barracuda's in it and I can't even hear the drives in it and it's running 24/7.

That said, there solidly designed cases and between mine and the other three people who own these (2 with windows) we all agree that if you want a near silent case with great airflow and tons of options, you can't go wrong with the R4. Either with the panel, or without the panel.


----------



## Oubadah

..


----------



## ervhamzz213

so yes guys i've cleaned my cpu, which means i've removed old thermal grease and reseated the cooler and tightened the screws. i got 82*C max temp from core temp and still wondering why. i dunno if our room heater is causing this. today i'm trying 3 corsair sp120 hpe out to test. may luck be with me.!!


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Has any one got a window side panel on there Arc mini?


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> so yes guys i've cleaned my cpu, which means i've removed old thermal grease and reseated the cooler and tightened the screws. i got 82*C max temp from core temp and still wondering why. i dunno if our room heater is causing this. today i'm trying 3 corsair sp120 hpe out to test. may luck be with me.!!


What CPU cooler are you using?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> so yes guys i've cleaned my cpu, which means i've removed old thermal grease and reseated the cooler and tightened the screws. i got 82*C max temp from core temp and still wondering why. i dunno if our room heater is causing this. today i'm trying 3 corsair sp120 hpe out to test. may luck be with me.!!


Have you delided the CPU ???


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> so yes guys i've cleaned my cpu, which means i've removed old thermal grease and reseated the cooler and tightened the screws. i got 82*C max temp from core temp and still wondering why. i dunno if our room heater is causing this. today i'm trying 3 corsair sp120 hpe out to test. may luck be with me.!!


Good luck and let us know.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> What CPU cooler are you using?


corsair h60i.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Have you delided the CPU ???


no not yet.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> Good luck and let us know.


no luck!! still 80*C above at max load 4.5 ghz


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> no not yet.


that is high for an H60i, make sure you are drawing air from the outside, and double check your mount again. Also if possible try it out on the stock cooler and see what temps you are hitting. There have been few cases where the ivy bridge CPUs run way too hot (hotter than average). If that is the case you might wanna look into RMAing it back.

I have read about cases where people have returned their ivy bridge CPUs as they ran really hot and the replacement ones were fine.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> that is high for an H60i, make sure you are drawing air from the outside, and double check your mount again. Also if possible try it out on the stock cooler and see what temps you are hitting. There have been few cases where the ivy bridge CPUs run way too hot (hotter than average). If that is the case you might wanna look into RMAing it back.
> 
> I have read about cases where people have returned their ivy bridge CPUs as they ran really hot and the replacement ones were fine.


i had 50~60*C using my hyper 212 evo. onax load. 50*C max on my custom loop. and yeah 1st time i had these bad temps. so i guess it's not the cpu and yeah i forgot to mention that whenever i start my rig my h60 pump whines like there's no coolant passing through for like 5 mins and go silent again.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i had 50~60*C using my hyper 212 evo. onax load. 50*C max on my custom loop. and yeah 1st time i had these bad temps. so i guess it's not the cpu and yeah i forgot to mention that whenever i start my rig my h60 pump whines like there's no coolant passing through for like 5 mins and go silent again.


In that case see if you can RMA the H60 as that does not sound right and I know that those use a really crappy pump too. If the warranty is over you can try taking the H60 apart and do some cleaning and convert it into a custom loop. I did that to mine (H80) and it was a royal pain in the rear to bleed that sucker.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## K4IKEN

So it wasn't until recently that I figured out you put the lid back on top of the cpu after you delid it. I always though it was heatsink straight onto the die. I was wondering how the retention bracket would work, aaaaaand I feel dumb. haha
















I doubt I'll delid my 3570k though, I'm too scared..


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> So it wasn't until recently that I figured out you put the lid back on top of the cpu after you delid it. I always though it was heatsink straight onto the die. I was wondering how the retention bracket would work, aaaaaand I feel dumb. haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I doubt I'll delid my 3570k though, I'm too scared..


Nothing wrong in how you had it running, its just a lil risky and quite a few people run their ivy bridge CPU that way.







So no you aint dumb, your the few of the bravest...


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tt-Prodigy15*
> 
> Has any one got a window side panel on there Arc mini?


i do.


----------



## zinfinion

15mm fan spacing confirmed by that video review for both 140mm and 120mm fans on the Fractal Arc Midi R2.


----------



## bortoloj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tt-Prodigy15*
> 
> Has any one got a window side panel on there Arc mini?


I do a full acrylic side panel


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bortoloj*
> 
> I do a full acrylic side panel


Nice







How did you bend the acrylic panel so it fits?


----------



## ElevenEleven

More photos of my white Define R4 (such an excellent case!). Added some white carbon fiber wrap, and discovered that it photographs poorly where it bends around curved objects (like my graphics card's shroud)--so it's not actually all chopped up looking; just weird with shadows.

Should probably get a white GPU backplate!

(Changing backlight colors with some IKEA Dioder LED strips I have extras of. I like it more than NXZT Hue I have in another computer, as that one has definite LED spotlights, whereas these give a nice soft glow).


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Where can I get some of that carbon fiber? Looks AMAZING!


----------



## ElevenEleven

eBay!! Just search for "carbon fiber vinyl" and 3M brushed vinyl and such. Can usually get a good amount for $10 or less, or fancier kinds of under $20.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> More photos of my white Define R4 (such an excellent case!). Added some white carbon fiber wrap, and discovered that it photographs poorly where it bends around curved objects (like my graphics card's shroud)--so it's not actually all chopped up looking; just weird with shadows.
> 
> Should probably get a white GPU backplate!
> 
> (Changing backlight colors with some IKEA Dioder LED strips I have extras of. I like it more than NXZT Hue I have in another computer, as that one has definite LED spotlights, whereas these give a nice soft glow).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


this is amazing







very nice !

only need to change ur gpu to black pcb
and get some white/black sata cable for ur storage drives and its perfect!!


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> this is amazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very nice !
> 
> only need to change ur gpu to black pcb
> and get some white/black sata cable for ur storage drives and its perfect!!


I don't think it's that easy to change the PCB...


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Maybe a GPU backplate from OCN artisan Dwood would suffice


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> Maybe a GPU backplate from OCN artisan Dwood would suffice


I've contacted him before, but every time I ended up switching the GPU shortly after. If I keep this one for a while (unless my plan of obtaining a 7970 goes through), I'll definitely get a white backplate! Dwood's work is so good.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Wait, he sells white ones too??? I've been looking at 1 for my 480!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Wait, he sells white ones too??? I've been looking at 1 for my 480!


I think he can paint in common colors like white and black. I'm proficient with spray paint cans in any event! Only thing I've been worried about is how I would properly connect a backplate to avoid shorting something. Maybe with thermal pads in between the PCB and backplate.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I think he can paint in common colors like white and black. I'm proficient with spray paint cans in any event! Only thing I've been worried about is how I would properly connect a backplate to avoid shorting something. Maybe with thermal pads in between the PCB and backplate.


I think it uses mounts like those used to keep the motherboard off the panel... you should ask him.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> More photos of my white Define R4 (such an excellent case!). Added some white carbon fiber wrap, and discovered that it photographs poorly where it bends around curved objects (like my graphics card's shroud)--so it's not actually all chopped up looking; just weird with shadows.


That white carbon fibre looks really nice. Just wondering why you didn't use the 2 2.5" HDD mounts on the rear of the motherboard rather than have them almost scattered around. I know you have 3 but you could have put the last on int the 5.25 bays or something. Would look alot cleaner and improve the look even more!


----------



## ervhamzz213

so i don't like my h60i anymore. any closed loop cooler suggestions??


----------



## ervhamzz213

so i don't like my h60i anymore. any closed loop cooler suggestions??


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> so i don't like my h60i anymore. any closed loop cooler suggestions??


What's wrong with it? Could wait for the Swiftech H220, looks promising







There are many different all in ones out now!


----------



## ervhamzz213

i get too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> What's wrong with it? Could wait for the Swiftech H220, looks promising
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are many different all in ones out now!


very high temps. wondering if h100i could fit inside my rig.


----------



## ZeVo

Just got an Asus 670 non TOP for a great deal. Finally, no more HD 4000!

Will post my rig again soon!


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

The new Swiftech H220!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> That white carbon fibre looks really nice. Just wondering why you didn't use the 2 2.5" HDD mounts on the rear of the motherboard rather than have them almost scattered around. I know you have 3 but you could have put the last on int the 5.25 bays or something. Would look alot cleaner and improve the look even more!


No room, sadly. Barely managed the cables neatly enough. I'm using 2 extensions and 2 sata+data cables, in addition to all the peripherals (total of 3 drives, H100i that needs to be powered with a SATA connector, fan controller that needs to be powered, and the case's own fan controller that also needs to be powered. Making all that neatly routed and fitting was annoying, and I definitely had no room for 2.5" drives after that. But I might put one of the drives up into the top optical drive cage at some point.

By the way, I keep reading people talking about noisy hard drives or "slow" notebook drives... I'm using a 500GB Hitachi Travelstar 7200RPM SATAIII with 32MB cache drive that's smaller than my SSDs, and it's inaudible. So loud larger mechanical drives can certainly be avoided without sacrificing performance.


----------



## the petes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i get too
> very high temps. wondering if h100i could fit inside my rig.


what do you have your CPU clocked at? i have an ITX rig and currently my 3570K @4.4 is about 76c after 5 minutes of Prime Small FFT. maybe your pump isnt running at max RPM?? I have the same fans and im having no issues with mine. i would check your pump speed and make sure your core clock isnt whats causing the high temps. i would say 4.5Ghz MAX.


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i get too
> very high temps. wondering if h100i could fit inside my rig.


Would also be worth reseating to see if something went wrong there


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> More photos of my white Define R4 (such an excellent case!). Added some white carbon fiber wrap, and discovered that it photographs poorly where it bends around curved objects (like my graphics card's shroud)--so it's not actually all chopped up looking; just weird with shadows.
> 
> Should probably get a white GPU backplate!
> 
> (Changing backlight colors with some IKEA Dioder LED strips I have extras of. I like it more than NXZT Hue I have in another computer, as that one has definite LED spotlights, whereas these give a nice soft glow).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow, that's a great DiNoc job. Not too much but just enough for a clean look. Nice work!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i get too
> very high temps. wondering if h100i could fit inside my rig.


Your GPU exhausts a bunch of hot air into the case. You are then using that warmed air to cool your CPU--I assume looking at the photo that your CPU radiator is attached to the rear fan location, and is set up in exhaust configuration, right? I'd run it as intake at the front instead, if the cables can stretch that far.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the petes*
> 
> what do you have your CPU clocked at? i have an ITX rig and currently my 3570K @4.4 is about 76c after 5 minutes of Prime Small FFT. maybe your pump isnt running at max RPM?? I have the same fans and im having no issues with mine. i would check your pump speed and make sure your core clock isnt whats causing the high temps. i would say 4.5Ghz MAX.


4.5ghz @ 1.190V 86*C max temp on max load. now i'm using sp120 hpe on the rad as push and the stock h60 fan a pull. and 2 more sp120 hpe on top as exhaust.


----------



## Ultranist

Hi guys
Does fractal have any plans to make a case similar to this?


----------



## Eseuldor

Only Fractal would be able to answer that.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> 4.5ghz @ 1.190V 86*C max temp on max load. now i'm using sp120 hpe on the rad as push and the stock h60 fan a pull. and 2 more sp120 hpe on top as exhaust.


Go with a custom loop man. I personally have had no issues with the H80. I would suggest opening the block and checking if it needs to be cleaned or something or convert the H60 into a custom loop.


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultranist*
> 
> Hi guys
> Does fractal have any plans to make a case similar to this?


Stand this one on end and you're close







:

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=95


----------



## caffeinescandal

Where can I get an R4 side panel with window? I wish I bought the windowed version at newegg.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caffeinescandal*
> 
> Where can I get an R4 side panel with window? I wish I bought the windowed version at newegg.


if you have a jig saw, you can make one yourself in a design you like....


----------



## Fast93bird

Joining this club with a Node 304 case. It's ordered, just waiting for Amazon to give me a ship date.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Go with a custom loop man. I personally have had no issues with the H80. I would suggest opening the block and checking if it needs to be cleaned or something or convert the H60 into a custom loop.


i ordered h100i and this is my last. coming tomorrow. sorry but i just don't want custom loops anymore. here's a pic of my dead pc because of my custom loop.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i ordered h100i and this is my last. coming tomorrow. sorry but i just don't want custom loops anymore. here's a pic of my dead pc because of my
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> custom loop.


Did you have a leak?


----------



## BBEG

Milk is a curious choice for coolant...


----------



## jbmayes2000

EDIT: Nevermind


----------



## NFL

Just picked up a white Define R4 for $80 on NCIX...I love it when I stumble into a deal.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Did you have a leak?


I would like to know that too.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Milk is a curious choice for coolant...


imagine the smell after boiling inside the computer for many months


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> imagine the smell after boiling inside the computer for many months


Pretty sure that is not milk... LOL but yeah that would be funny and prolly chunky after a while.


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi guys,

anyone tried the new silverstone fan filter (140mm, magnetic, ultra-thin, FF143) on the side panel of an Arc Midi ?
As the side grill is embossed, I'd tend to think it should be installed on the interior, between panel and fan, right ?

MaX.


----------



## Deornoth

Stage one is complete! I'll be doing more to the system once I can get it designed and figure out funding. For now the goal was to make the modding fit in with the stock theme and looks of the case.

Sorry for the crap pictures, this is the only camera I have











*Build Log*


----------



## solar0987

Ok so i want a r4 but i want to see cl;earance pics of top rad and front rad placement if possible pretty please


----------



## caffeinescandal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> if you have a jig saw, you can make one yourself in a design you like....


I wish I had the ability to do so, but my hands are so unsteady I'd probably cut the panel in half.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> Stage one is complete! I'll be doing more to the system once I can get it designed and figure out funding. For now the goal was to make the modding fit in with the stock theme and looks of the case.


This looks incredible! Fantastic loop! (and very clean)


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> Stage one is complete! I'll be doing more to the system once I can get it designed and figure out funding. For now the goal was to make the modding fit in with the stock theme and looks of the case.
> 
> Sorry for the crap pictures, this is the only camera I have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Build Log*


I first I thought that you were cooling a CPU and GPU with a 120.2 rad alone... then I saw the second pic and realized you're using a 120.3. When you finish your loop be sure to post temps!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> Stage one is complete! I'll be doing more to the system once I can get it designed and figure out funding. For now the goal was to make the modding fit in with the stock theme and looks of the case.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the crap pictures, this is the only camera I have
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Build Log*


One of the only times where I actually like a shroud. It looks great mane.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Did you have a leak?


no leaks. but the gpu waterblock is fcked up. it doesn't make any contact on my gpu vcore and shuts down my system as soon as i open any program that uses gpu. and i hated the white coolant too because after a week it changes to yellowish white which looks so dirty.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Milk is a curious choice for coolant...


mayhems ice dragon nanofluid. LoL @ milk.


----------



## ervhamzz213

so corsair h100 i is coming and ill be doing a push build on top and i dunno the screw's diameter in mm. anyone wanna help? i'll be buying screws on my way home so please if anyone knows the screwholes's diameter in mm please reply asap. thanks in advance


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> so corsair h100 i is coming and ill be doing a push build on top and i dunno the screw's diameter in mm. anyone wanna help? i'll be buying screws on my way home so please if anyone knows the screwholes's diameter in mm please reply asap. thanks in advance


You can use multi-quote function to quote multiple people in the same post. There's also an Edit button to combine multiple thoughts into the same post


----------



## NoGuru

Just bought the XL R2. Should be here in about a week.


----------



## CurtTerror

Hi Guys,

I am currently looking to build a new PC. My old macbook pro laptop is still great, however it doesn't have the power or compatibility to do what I need. I'm also looking to check out the new windows 8 operating system and I actually do quite like it.

One of the reasons for the switch is because I enjoy pc gaming, I am not a hardcore gamer and that's all I do, I will sit down and play games on my nights off or when it's pouring rain and there isn't heaps to do. I play many games from the past ( age of empires, Patrician, The Settlers, Dawn Of War, Old Grand Theft auto games and I also like to play newer titles like Battlefield 3, Assassins creed & The Witcher. I also like my sport games too.

i love the idea of building my own PC, however I don't consider myself to be an extreme enthusiast and I'm looking to build a solid Ivy bridge rig. I also do some video editing on this PC for personal not for professional use. I am aware of HAswell around the corner and after reading the benchmarks, I am deciding to to build on ivy.

I was originally going to buy a brand new iMac although, I have built systems before but never with these sort of capabilities. I'm thinking right now, get a Fractal Design R4, Throw in a Gigabyte Ga-z77-ud3h, 670, a good sound card, blu ray player, a h60 SE and 16 gb of Ram and get a solid system running. I'm not into big gaming cases or flashy boxes that light up. That's why this case appealed to me. I just want to build a reasonably sized powerful ivy system with enough power to kick the current games asses.

I use a dual monitor setup, but only because it's more productive for me. So Obviously I'm still gaming on a single monitor.

Would you guys reccommend an R4 for the uses I've suggested above and how big is this case? Because I had the corsair 600t and it was simply put way, way too big.

Cheers


----------



## ElevenEleven

Well, I'm a fan of customizing cases and such, and my previous build was in a Bitfenix Prodigy, which was small and fun. I initially thought Define R4 would be "boring" and had plans for it, but when my white one arrived, I tossed all those plans aside and so far I've been very happy with it as is. If you arrange your components and fans thoughtfully, it will be a very quiet and cool system. It's roomy inside, everything is very well-made, and I think it looks very classy. It's definitely not as big as 600t by far. I have not owned a 600t, but I've seen it at my local Microcenter. 600t is basically a full tower in an egg-shaped design. Define R4 larger than cheap low-end mid-tower cases, but it's not huge. It's just right, I think. You should get a measuring tape and estimate how large it would be under your desk, looking at specifications. That should give you a good idea.


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> Just bought the XL R2. Should be here in about a week.


Lucky!

I'm dyin' to get one, but waiting for my budget to catch up.

Newest review here:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6764/fractal-design-define-xl-r2-case-review-maybe-we-can-have-it-all

It did extremely well...


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> You can use multi-quote function to quote multiple people in the same post. There's also an Edit button to combine multiple thoughts into the same post


i'm not so sure how to do those stuff.







i'm using cellphone everytime i post and i dunno how to do those stuff to be honest.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i'm not so sure how to do those stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm using cellphone everytime i post and i dunno how to do those stuff to be honest.


Instead of tapping on "reply" or "quote", tap on "multi" for each post you want to quote. Then at the end, tap on "reply", and all of the posts you're quoting will appear. Also, next to each of your posts is an "Edit" button (at the bottom of each). Tap that to edit and then save.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Instead of tapping on "reply" or "quote", tap on "multi" for each post you want to quote. Then at the end, tap on "reply", and all of the posts you're quoting will appear. Also, next to each of your posts is an "Edit" button (at the bottom of each). Tap that to edit and then save.


thank you. but i guess that multi button isn't supported in my phone, so i guess i gotta post stuff on my pc next time.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> thank you. but i guess that multi button isn't supported in my phone, so i guess i gotta post stuff on my pc next time.


It might appear as if nothing happens when you press "multi". But it remembers what you've selected. When you do press "reply", it will copy all of the things you hit "multi" for and paste them into your reply.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> thank you. but i guess that multi button isn't supported in my phone, so i guess i gotta post stuff on my pc next time.


I got the iPhone 4S and have the button. Where it has the quotation marks (") click on one of the posts, then another to multi quote.


----------



## dervladimir

New hardware installed in my R4



...more fotos and small plans about modding
http://www.overclock.net/t/1273640/official-rog-maximus-v-owners-club/2080_20#post_19353713

...more and more fotos with review on russian
http://forums.overclockers.ru/viewtopic.php?p=10596774#p10596774


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> This looks incredible! Fantastic loop! (and very clean)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> One of the only times where I actually like a shroud. It looks great mane.


Thanks! I really wanted a 120.3 rad in this Mini, and could only see it being possible to integrate it with my other needs by roof mounting it. Unfortunately that would have only left 1/2" of clearance between the bottom of the front radiator fan and the top of the installed 5.25" bay device. I did a lot of research on this site and all over the internet and found that the minimum recommended intake area was the size of the fan itself, so I had to "find" another 1/2" somewhere. I couldn't agree more that shrouds typically clash with the theme of a case and detract from the overall looks and asthetics, which is why I worked so hard to make one that matched Fractal's existing theme on the Mini as closely as I could.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> I first I thought that you were cooling a CPU and GPU with a 120.2 rad alone... then I saw the second pic and realized you're using a 120.3. When you finish your loop be sure to post temps!


Unfortunately, the temps right now aren't really all that amazing. Honestly, I'm going the water route more for the silence than anything else. I've got all the fans set to run at 5v permanently to be as quiet as possible. The MCP-35x pump is set to ramp between 20% and 50% with the motherboard PWM based on CPU temp. As the loop is more or less finished for the time being (will be a while before I get the funds to expand it further), here's the requested temps after 15min of FurMark and a full "High" run (5min) of IBT:


The HD6850 is OC'd to 875MHz on the core, and 1150MHz on the GDDR, with no overvoltage at all. The i5-3750k has a mild OC of 4.2GHz with the voltage running in offset mode using an offset of +0.035v. I think I've got a bum 3750k, as it from the research I've done, mine seems to need far more voltage to be stable than it should at various clock speeds. I'll likely delid it in the future if the temps ever prove to be a problem.


----------



## ervhamzz213

i was about to give up but then i saw the light. lolz. i wouldn't suggest an h100i on a core 3000. it wouldn't fit without modding the case.


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CurtTerror*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am currently looking to build a new PC. My old macbook pro laptop is still great, however it doesn't have the power or compatibility to do what I need. I'm also looking to check out the new windows 8 operating system and I actually do quite like it.
> 
> One of the reasons for the switch is because I enjoy pc gaming, I am not a hardcore gamer and that's all I do, I will sit down and play games on my nights off or when it's pouring rain and there isn't heaps to do. I play many games from the past ( age of empires, Patrician, The Settlers, Dawn Of War, Old Grand Theft auto games and I also like to play newer titles like Battlefield 3, Assassins creed & The Witcher. I also like my sport games too.
> 
> i love the idea of building my own PC, however I don't consider myself to be an extreme enthusiast and I'm looking to build a solid Ivy bridge rig. I also do some video editing on this PC for personal not for professional use. I am aware of HAswell around the corner and after reading the benchmarks, I am deciding to to build on ivy.
> 
> I was originally going to buy a brand new iMac although, I have built systems before but never with these sort of capabilities. I'm thinking right now, get a Fractal Design R4, Throw in a Gigabyte Ga-z77-ud3h, 670, a good sound card, blu ray player, a h60 SE and 16 gb of Ram and get a solid system running. I'm not into big gaming cases or flashy boxes that light up. That's why this case appealed to me. I just want to build a reasonably sized powerful ivy system with enough power to kick the current games asses.
> 
> I use a dual monitor setup, but only because it's more productive for me. So Obviously I'm still gaming on a single monitor.
> 
> Would you guys reccommend an R4 for the uses I've suggested above and how big is this case? Because I had the corsair 600t and it was simply put way, way too big.
> 
> Cheers


Have you considered going Micro ATX? They are just as capable..


----------



## karesma

Does anyone have the NZXT Hue installed in their R4? Do the knobs on the Hue control panel prevent the front panel door from closing?

Thanks!


----------



## [email protected]

**Megahalems + System updates: DONE**

Pics incoming this weekend


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karesma*
> 
> Does anyone have the NZXT Hue installed in their R4? Do the knobs on the Hue control panel prevent the front panel door from closing?
> 
> Thanks!


I'm not entirely sure, but you could always push the control panel back into the drive bay a little so its recessed allowing more clearance for the knobs. That's what I would do if I had a knobby control panel for a 5.25 bay device.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> **Megahalems + System updates: DONE**
> 
> Pics incoming this weekend


Woooo!


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karesma*
> 
> Does anyone have the NZXT Hue installed in their R4? Do the knobs on the Hue control panel prevent the front panel door from closing?
> 
> Thanks!


It doesn't prevent the door from closing, it will however touch the foam on the door, and leave a little bit of a mark on the foam.


----------



## camp

Anyone know where I can get the Adjust 108 in the US?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i was about to give up but then i saw the light. lolz. i wouldn't suggest an h100i on a core 3000. it wouldn't fit without modding the case.


Just a quick question, what did you use to create that blanking plate for the drive bay?


----------



## jassilamba

Great news guys for those of us who ordered the Arc Midi on Walmart for $20.00 bucks here is the first review:



Source


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Great news guys for those of us who ordered the Arc Midi on Walmart for $20.00 bucks here is the first review:


That review is bogus, its author seems proud of that:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *losttsol*
> 
> *My bogus review just popped up on the site.* Make sure you print the review page too, so you can show how somebody else got the case for only $19.99.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1362440/walmart-arc-midi-r2-19-99/150_50#post_19340046


----------



## VHJC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i was about to give up but then i saw the light. lolz. i wouldn't suggest an h100i on a core 3000. it wouldn't fit without modding the case.


Is that a Core 3000 with an H100i on the front? What have you modd to fit it?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> That review is bogus, its author seems proud of that:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1362440/walmart-arc-midi-r2-19-99/150_50#post_19340046


That makes me a sad panda, I had a feeling as when you look at the weight of the shipment from FedEx it only states 8 lbs.
Thanks for the heads up mate.


----------



## [email protected]

Some *cough* low-quality phone teaser pictures for you guys













*Real* pictures coming this weekend


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Some *cough* low-quality phone teaser pictures for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Real* pictures coming this weekend


That looks pimp. Looking forward to your real pictures


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Some *cough* low-quality phone teaser pictures for you guys


Looks nice. I like how you painted PCI-E bracket covers as well!


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Some *cough* low-quality phone teaser pictures for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Real* pictures coming this weekend


sweet!

it'll be nice seeing a rig with a different color scheme


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> it'll be nice seeing a rig with a different color scheme


Unfortunately it was completely dictated by the main board (G1 Sniper 3) ...but it's starting to grow on me.

Stay tuned!


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Some *cough* low-quality phone teaser pictures for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Real* pictures coming this weekend


For some reason I want to watch a Hulk movie now...

Looking good so far sir!


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Just a quick question, what did you use to create that blanking plate for the drive bay?


a sheet of metal 1mm thick and used double-sided tape to stick it there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VHJC*
> 
> Is that a Core 3000 with an H100i on the front? What have you modd to fit it?


i'll take a picture as soon as i go home and post it. but i'm telling you it's not a great idea. now i'm thinking how my brackets would fit, because i have my hdd and ssd installed in a sheet of metal. near the h100i.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Some *cough* low-quality phone teaser pictures for you guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Real* pictures coming this weekend


Nice shots! Rig is looking good.


----------



## ervhamzz213

can anyone please check on my build. every fan is working as an exhaust. no air is coming inside the case, is it okay?? or should i inverse the sp120 and front panel fans for some air intake?


----------



## ElevenEleven

I think your graphics card and motherboard would like some air from the outside. Why have everything as exhaust, that doesn't make any sense... Front as intake (and possibly bottom) and rear as exhaust. Or Front as intake and bottom + rear as exhaust--depends on what is better for your particular GPU cooling.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> a sheet of metal 1mm thick and used double-sided tape to stick it there.
> 
> i'll take a picture as soon as i go home and post it. but i'm telling you it's not a great idea. now i'm thinking how my brackets would fit, because i have my hdd and ssd installed in a sheet of metal. near the h100i.


this looks extremely familiar








great job man looking good!


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I think your graphics card and motherboard would like some air from the outside. Why have everything as exhaust, that doesn't make any sense... Front as intake (and possibly bottom) and rear as exhaust. Or Front as intake and bottom + rear as exhaust--depends on what is better for your particular GPU cooling.


okay sir. i'd turn those fans the other direction a soon as i get home.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ekg84*
> 
> this looks extremely familiar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> great job man looking good!


an honor to be conplimented by someone great in case modding.







credits to you sir ekg.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VHJC*
> 
> Is that a Core 3000 with an H100i on the front? What have you modd to fit it?


sir this is how i mounted my h100i. you wouldn't like something like that in your rig. i'm in the process of thinking how to mount brackets for the h100i. if i wouldn't be mounting my hdd and ssd there, it would be an easy job to make brackets for the h100i rads.


----------



## ervhamzz213

thank you very much eleveneleven for not giving up on me. i get very good temps on my gpu as well as my cpu 54*C on max load on cpu @ 4.5ghz and 44*C on max load on gpu @1100mhz/5500mhz i guess i'm done with my system. i'll be saving for another 7950 and xfire them for future game releases. my side panel couldn't be modded atm, too busy at work and i don't really know what to do for my side panel. maybe next week i'll try cutting my side panel first and if i fail i'll make a full acrylic side panel

my rig pics from my iphone 4s.


----------



## adridu59

It looks great Ervham.


----------



## 909303

Heres a few pics of my build, not quite finished yet, going to replace the h80i stock fans and tidy the cables up more.

Its not a work of art but I'm happy with the end result.











Thanks for the inspiration, it helped my a lot as this is my first solo build.


----------



## bortoloj

There are very cool rig here









Phobya Flexlight received







Thanks Malik for the idea


----------



## dervladimir

Malik did not give bad advice, looking great!


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tambok2012*
> 
> THIS THING MAY NOT MAKE YOU HAPPY BUT
> 
> IM REALLY HAPPY SEEING THIS PICTURE BECAUSE OF THE CABLE MANAGEMENT!
> ON THE CORE 1000
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I DON'T OWN THIS PICTURE*
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/6/60/602f827f_JQu28843.jpeg


Maybe someone know ehre is the buildlog of this? i wanna know how he managed to make this soft of cable management on that case?


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Maybe someone know ehre is the buildlog of this? i wanna know how he managed to make this soft of cable management on that case?


me to, as i am currently modding one


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *909303*
> 
> Heres a few pics of my build, not quite finished yet, going to replace the h80i stock fans and tidy the cables up more.


Why would you replace the SP120L fans? - they're great.


----------



## lundrog

Here is my XL R2


----------



## Plumbergeek

I thought I would show you wippersnappers what an old man of 50 can do!







I will be replacing the H100i with the Swiftech H220 as soon as they are available.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Plumbergeek*
> 
> I thought I would show you wippersnappers what an old man of 50 can do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be replacing the H100i with the Swiftech H220 as soon as they are available.


Looks good. You can do away with the Corsair Link USB connector on top of your PSU. With the AX860i you should have got a link cable. You can use that to connect the PSU to the H100i and it'll give you readings for both until you swap over to the Swiftech H220 . Unless you plan to add and extra Corsair Link compatible product.


----------



## Backwoods166

Some love for the white knight! Sorry about the crappy photo


----------



## Plumbergeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Looks good. You can do away with the Corsair Link USB connector on top of your PSU. With the AX860i you should have got a link cable. You can use that to connect the PSU to the H100i and it'll give you readings for both until you swap over to the Swiftech H220 . Unless you plan to add and extra Corsair Link compatible product.


Thanks! I did not know that about the link dongle, it wasn't being used anyway as I don't have a free 2.0 usb header on this board.


----------



## [email protected]

*Project: S N | P E R* (High-Quality pictures)

_Thank you everyone for all your support, ideas, and suggestions for this ever-evolving build!_


----------



## adridu59

It looks great, but to my eyes the pictures are too sharp or something...


----------



## [email protected]

Pictures were taken with a Nikon D7000 + Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4
Photos were converted in Photoshop from NSF format (no editing)


----------



## Nhilzen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Project: S N | P E R* (High-Quality pictures)
> 
> _Thank you everyone for all your support, ideas, and suggestions for this ever-evolving build!_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beautiful.


----------



## SoulClap

R4 (Black Pearl)


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Gorgeous Sawyer. What sleeving?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Gorgeous Sawyer. What sleeving?


NZXT 8,24,& VGA extensions


----------



## K4IKEN

[email protected] that looks amazing! the prefect amount of lime green and black, great balance.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> [email protected] that looks amazing! the prefect amount of lime green and black, great balance.


Thank you!


----------



## jassilamba

Hey guys thought I would share some of my progress on my Node build:


----------



## NFL

Quick question...what color is the LED on the white Define R4?


----------



## BBEG

Damn [email protected], that CPU cooler blends in _perfectly_ to the color scheme. Well done sir.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Quick question...what color is the LED on the white Define R4?


It is red.


----------



## NFL

Thanks


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Damn [email protected], that CPU cooler blends in _perfectly_ to the color scheme. Well done sir.


Thank you Thank you


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Got my Arc Midi R2. This is no way finished yet. Gonna take a bit to get done, and a long while. Hopefully by end of year will be done.


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Why can't they do a Arc mini R2.....?? This time with a window panel...


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Project: S N | P E R* (High-Quality pictures)
> 
> _Thank you everyone for all your support, ideas, and suggestions for this ever-evolving build!_


looks great man!


----------



## catbuster

My build current state







dont mind the psu xDDD


----------



## D33G33

Hi,

Has anyone used Y-adapters off the built in fan controller headers?
I'm hoping to drive 6 GT's off the 3 headers. Any previous experiences would be tops.

Thanks,
DeeG


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Has anyone used Y-adapters off the built in fan controller headers?
> I'm hoping to drive 6 GT's off the 3 headers. Any previous experiences would be tops.


No way the tiny fan controller's gonna handle it, at the time of Define R2 Fractal rated it at 10W total, not sure if it evolved since then.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> No way the tiny fan controller's gonna handle it, at the time of Define R2 Fractal rated it at 10W total, not sure if it evolved since then.


Hmm this will be in an R4... here's hoping...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Swapped my H80i for my old D14. Idling at 35 instead of early 40s. Not sure what the max temp is until Burn Test has completed but it'll hopefully be better than the H80i.

It looks stupid though so I think I'm going to order the Red Megahalems and get some decent fans for it.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Project: S N | P E R* (High-Quality pictures)
> 
> _Thank you everyone for all your support, ideas, and suggestions for this ever-evolving build!_


How did you get you get you hard drive trays green? Paint? Dye? Same with the corsair fan rings.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> How did you get you get you hard drive trays green? Paint? Dye? Same with the corsair fan rings.


Everything is painted. (Rust Oleum color: 249104 - Gloss Key Lime)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Swapped my H80i for my old D14. Idling at 35 instead of early 40s. Not sure what the max temp is until Burn Test has completed but it'll hopefully be better than the H80i.
> 
> It looks stupid though so I think I'm going to order the Red Megahalems and get some decent fans for it.


See? It's black magic I swear lol


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Swapped my H80i for my old D14. Idling at 35 instead of early 40s. Not sure what the max temp is until Burn Test has completed but it'll hopefully be better than the H80i.
> 
> It looks stupid though so I think I'm going to order the Red Megahalems and get some decent fans for it.


Idle temps don't mean anything. What is the difference under load?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tt-Prodigy15*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why can't they do a Arc mini R2.....?? This time with a window panel...


They probably will. IIRC the Arc Mini was released after the Arc Midi, so the Arc Mini R2 will probably be announced later on.


----------



## adi518

Guys, does anyone know how to disassemble the led from the plexi housing? Is it tucked-in or glued onto it?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> Idle temps don't mean anything. What is the difference under load?


Max temp was 74. H80i was 83 iirc.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> No way the tiny fan controller's gonna handle it, at the time of Define R2 Fractal rated it at 10W total, not sure if it evolved since then.


AP15s draw at most 1W. The controller can handle GTs just fine.


----------



## Backwoods166

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *Project: S N | P E R* (High-Quality pictures)
> 
> _Thank you everyone for all your support, ideas, and suggestions for this ever-evolving build!_


Did you paint the heatsink? It will look nice but your are losing some cooling capabilities with the paint acting as insulation.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Backwoods166*
> 
> Did you paint the heatsink? It will look nice but your are losing some cooling capabilities with the paint acting as insulation.


No.
The heatsink is a Black Edition Prolimatech Megahalems.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> AP15s draw at most 1W. The controller can handle GTs just fine.


My bad then! Guess I've been fooled by when I heard about fan controllers with 30W per channel.


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Has anyone used Y-adapters off the built in fan controller headers?
> I'm hoping to drive 6 GT's off the 3 headers. Any previous experiences would be tops.
> 
> Thanks,
> DeeG


Currently running 7 fans off the tiny fan controller with y adapters, it's handling it like a champ.

Edit: think I posted this earlier in the thread too, and I'm housed inside an R4 for reference.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> My bad then! Guess I've been fooled by when I heard about fan controllers with 30W per channel.


My guess is, a lot of fan controllers are made to support devices other than fans as well, such as lighting, pumps, and anything that could use variable voltage. So they allow extra power. Though there are some ridiculously powerful fans out there, like high RPM Deltas. And even TY-143 on the high speed setting. Scythe Gentle Typhoons sub AP-15s should be _very_ low power when running vs. many other similar fans.


----------



## K4IKEN

Looks like I'm not upgrading to the 3570k after all.







Need to budget and pay some bills. I hate being on this laptop and just letting my R4 collect dust under my bed.


----------



## adi518

Does anyone have a clue whether eloops gonna work with the built in controller?







Just wondering, I'm not sure I'll use it. Although it's wires fit perfectly, length-wise, to the fans on my 360 radiator.

Also, I'm still inquiring about the led replacement, is it tucked in plexi or attached onto it with some glue?


----------



## DirkDaring

For folks asking about the fan controller:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=65822&p=571591

Pretty much all I could find, you could always call or email their support to see if you could get an actual number for watts it could handle but for now let's assume it's not meant to handle more than 3 fans at full tilt, although I have 7 @ full tilt with no problems to report. A combination of bgears blasters, phanteks 140mm, and cougar 120mm


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> For folks asking about the fan controller:
> 
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=65822&p=571591
> 
> Pretty much all I could find, you could always call or email their support to see if you could get an actual number for watts it could handle but for now let's assume it's not meant to handle more than 3 fans at full tilt, although I have 7 @ full tilt with no problems to report. A combination of bgears blasters, phanteks 140mm, and cougar 120mm


Ryan from Fractal Design emailed me about the controller for the Arc Midi R2. He said fan controller rating is 0.3A, 50V DC, 5w/ch.


----------



## BBEG

TY140/147s at full tilt are 2.4W on per specs, 1.27-1.5W at full tilt in practice. 5W per channel should be plenty for most modern sub-1600rpm fans. Very nice.


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Guys, does anyone know how to disassemble the led from the plexi housing? Is it tucked-in or glued onto it?


As for the Define Mini, it's just press-fit very tightly into place and takes quite a bit of careful wiggling to get it out. I'm not sure about the other models, however, as all I have ever used is a Define Mini.


----------



## spenzalii

Finally got my R4 put together. Here's a few pics. I will post up some more and the build log at some point this week.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I am planning on getting a Define R4 to replace my old P180B. Just waiting for the Egg to lower the price on it, to match what other sites have posted for the windowed R4. I have some newegg Gift Cards.


----------



## blue-cat

My white fractal R4 with window and USB 3 is on it's way!!!!!!






















wheee:
















fingers crossed it actually has a window and I don't have to return it or get a discount.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> My white fractal R4 with window and USB 3 is on it's way!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wheee:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fingers crossed it actually has a window and I don't have to return it or get a discount.


Preliminary congratulations! I love mine so much!







The glossy white paint is very nice.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Preliminary congratulations! I love mine so much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The glossy white paint is very nice.


i love your bitfenix survivor.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ervhamzz213*
> 
> i love your bitfenix survivor.


Thanks! I need to take better photos of the finished result soon. Just trying to figure out how to do it, since my indoor lighting situation is very poor.


----------



## ervhamzz213

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Thanks! I need to take better photos of the finished result soon. Just trying to figure out how to do it, since my indoor lighting situation is very poor.


send me a link after u finish everything on that bitfenix survivor.


----------



## aznever

I did a bit of cutting to mount a 280 mm radiator in the Arc Midi.

Single radiator 240mm



Dual radiators 240mm + 280mm


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznever*
> 
> I did a bit of cutting to mount a 280 mm radiator in the Arc Midi.
> 
> Single radiator 240mm
> 
> 
> 
> Dual radiators 240mm + 280mm


Exactly what I have planned for my Arc Midi R2 build when it releases! However, I don't think modding is needed in the R2 as the front has the appropriate spacing (15mm?) for 140.2 rads. Looking to get an alphacool UT60 in the front









Nice build!

EDIT: May I ask the temperature difference going from a single 240mm rad to a 240 + 280?


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> Exactly what I have planned for my Arc Midi R2 build when it releases!


When is now.









*http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227*


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> When is now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227*


Newegg doesn't have any info









I plan to order everything from newegg and I'm in no rush to start this build so I'll wait for the newegg release


----------



## edelfurioso

this are some pic of my build before a did the cable management. and after i install the H60.
what do you guys think i can do to make it look better.
imma try to take some pics of the build of how it is right now because that one is more than a month old and i took the top
hard drive cage off.


----------



## SageQi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> 
> this are some pic of my build before a did the cable management. and after i install the H60.
> what do you guys think i can do to make it look better.
> imma try to take some pics of the build of how it is right now because that one is more than a month old and i took the top
> hard drive cage off.


Hard drive cages off


----------



## aznever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SageQi*
> 
> Exactly what I have planned for my Arc Midi R2 build when it releases! However, I don't think modding is needed in the R2 as the front has the appropriate spacing (15mm?) for 140.2 rads. Looking to get an alphacool UT60 in the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build!
> 
> EDIT: May I ask the temperature difference going from a single 240mm rad to a 240 + 280?


about 10 Celsius lower + lower speed fans


----------



## dervladimir

*@edelfurioso*
I think better will if U off both of drive cages and mount your ssd's on back of backplate (there are 2 places for them if it's R4)... IMHO


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> *@edelfurioso*
> I think better will if U off both of drive cages and mount your ssd's on back of backplate (there are 2 places for them if it's R4)... IMHO


The mount behind mobo is useless. You have to mount the SSD first, then the mobo.
If you have issues with SSD, you have to remove the mobo.


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The mount behind mobo is useless. You have to mount the SSD first, then the mobo.
> If you have issues with SSD, you have to remove the mobo.


Im currently fabbing a bracket up to resolve this, if it works well im considering selling it cheap on here to people


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftes*
> 
> Im currently fabbing a bracket up to resolve this, if it works well im considering selling it cheap on here to people


Well that is good. If I had space and the tools needed I would too. A similar mounting like Lian-Li HDD would work well.


----------



## blue-cat

Seller gave me someone else's tracking number. Sheer disappointment when I saw it was delivered and I knew it hadn't been!


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Does anyone know the specific release dates for the R3 and R4? Im only curious b/c from what I am finding, via search results is the R3 and R4 are within a year of release. I wonder if a possible R5 is right around the corner.


----------



## Swiftes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> Does anyone know the specific release dates for the R3 and R4? Im only curious b/c from what I am finding, via search results is the R3 and R4 are within a year of release. I wonder if a possible R5 is right around the corner.


I doubt it, I think of them as more revisions than new models, I'd say there is hardly anything they can improve on to make it better, Aluminium front perhaps but that would put it out of its current price bracket, maybe a few tweaks, but IMO its already a brilliant case as is.

TLDR: I can't see a R5 coming out this year.


----------



## mironccr345

Anyone rocking or getting the New Arc-midi?


----------



## Phishy714

Anyone know when the Arc Midi 2 is set to be released? I.E. when should Amazon/Newegg get them?


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Anyone rocking or getting the New Arc-midi?


Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Anyone know when the Arc Midi 2 is set to be released? I.E. when should Amazon/Newegg get them?


NCIX has them...


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> Sp33d Junki3
> NCIX has them...


Yup I know!

Shipping says anywhere from 2-5 days TO SHIP and then another 4-5 days for ground.

Newegg MIGHT give me free shoprunner shipping, or Amazon might give me prime 2-day free.

That's why I am asking for those two specifically.


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, here's a useful post.









I emailed Fractal about how to replace the power led, and in their natural way of offering great support they sent in a short explanation and two pictures to help us understand:

Quote:


> Hello Adi,
> 
> It's attached with melted plastic. You can just pull it in order to remove.
> 
> Please check picture. The smaller part is tucked inside the plastic casing.
> 
> These are pictures of the Define R3 power button, but there are no big changes on the, except for the Define R4 button being a little bit harder to remove.






There you go, it's pretty damn easy to remove.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Anyone know when the Arc Midi 2 is set to be released? I.E. when should Amazon/Newegg get them?


I will most likely have to grab one when Newegg has them in stock


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The mount behind mobo is useless. You have to mount the SSD first, then the mobo.
> If you have issues with SSD, you have to remove the mobo.


yeah...
i know that's why i didnt do it.
i have it like that at first but it give me some problems soo yeah.

imma try to take some pics of the build of how it is right now because those are more than a month old and i took the top
hard drive cage off and did the cable management.


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys, here's a useful post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I emailed Fractal about how to replace the power led, and in their natural way of offering great support they sent in a short explanation and two pictures to help us understand:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There you go, it's pretty damn easy to remove.


are those for the R4 b/c i was thinking on changing mine.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys, here's a useful post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I emailed Fractal about how to replace the power led, and in their natural way of offering great support they sent in a short explanation and two pictures to help us understand:
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Adi,
> 
> It's attached with melted plastic. You can just pull it in order to remove.
> 
> Please check picture. The smaller part is tucked inside the plastic casing.
> 
> These are pictures of the Define R3 power button, but there are no big changes on the, except for the Define R4 button being a little bit harder to remove.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There you go, it's pretty damn easy to remove.
Click to expand...

I wished that it would have had separate Power and HDD activity leds.


----------



## edelfurioso

im thinking on getting Single Sleeved cables and ENERMAX T.B. Vegas Duo 120mm for a push pull config.
someone knows about Single Sleeved cable pack for the x650 seasonic?
what color u guys think it will look good?


----------



## adi518

The led post refers to the R4.


----------



## stratosrally

I'm curious as to why everyone that wants to hide SSDs behind the motherboard doesn't just Velcro them back there? That would negate the whole screws issue.

Given that there is 26mm (or just over 1") free space between it and the side panel, it should even work if you use the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter tray that comes with many SSDs.

My relatively ancient first generation Corsair Force 120 SSD came with the tray and I just used Velcro to hang it vertically on the back of my 5.25" bay.

It's been there for 3yrs....

I'd forgo the tray, but I thought perhaps the adhesive from the 3M brand Velcro might take some paint or anodizing off from my SSD housing if I ever wanted to remove it. It probably won't, though.

However, if you use the tray, you could simply screw it in before installing the motherboard.

Then the SSD itself would be installed onto the tray by simply removing the back side panel of the case without ever taking the motherboard out!

No Velcro that way...

Link to similar adapter tray:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9323/hdc-67/OCZ_SSD_25_35_Adapter_Bracket_-_OCZACSSDBRKT2.html?tl=g12c273s906



Heck, those unneeded screw holes on the bent up side of the tray could even be used to run additional zipties for cable management assistance...


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I noticed this morning that the Define R4 Black Pearl Windowed was out of stock at newegg. Now it doesn't even come up on the site.


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> I noticed this morning that the Define R4 Black Pearl Windowed was out of stock at newegg. Now it doesn't even come up on the site.


It's "temporarily out of stock" at Amazon, too... as is the XL R2 in Black Pearl (although it actually states the XL is "currently unavailable")

I think people are snapping the Define series up, as the Titanium Grey XL R2 is only available for over $170 (!!!) at Amazon, whereas it was $129.99 yesterday.

The XL R2 isn't even listed at Newegg in any color, at least the R4 is still there in Titanium Grey and Arctic White.

Unfortunately, as people see them scoring well in reviews the sales numbers go up and Fractal Design needs to increase production and distribution to match!


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

OK, now I am a sad panda







I could have grabbed 1 last week but held off thinking the Egg would put it on sale after NCIX ended its sale.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys, here's a useful post.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I emailed Fractal about how to replace the power led, and in their natural way of offering great support they sent in a short explanation and two pictures to help us understand:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There you go, it's pretty damn easy to remove.


They never cease to amaze me with their support. Definitely some of the best customer support in the business. That's awesome that they sent you those pictures with a great little explanation.


----------



## edelfurioso

just took some new pics.
there not that good b\c I did want to move it.



thanks..!!!!!
share your ideas.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> I'm curious as to why everyone that wants to hide SSDs behind the motherboard doesn't just Velcro them back there? That would negate the whole screws issue.
> 
> Given that there is 26mm (or just over 1") free space between it and the side panel, it should even work if you use the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter tray that comes with many SSDs.
> 
> My relatively ancient first generation Corsair Force 120 SSD came with the tray and I just used Velcro to hang it vertically on the back of my 5.25" bay.
> 
> It's been there for 3yrs....
> 
> I'd forgo the tray, but I thought perhaps the adhesive from the 3M brand Velcro might take some paint or anodizing off from my SSD housing if I ever wanted to remove it. It probably won't, though.
> 
> However, if you use the tray, you could simply screw it in before installing the motherboard.
> 
> Then the SSD itself would be installed onto the tray by simply removing the back side panel of the case without ever taking the motherboard out!
> 
> No Velcro that way...
> 
> Link to similar adapter tray:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9323/hdc-67/OCZ_SSD_25_35_Adapter_Bracket_-_OCZACSSDBRKT2.html?tl=g12c273s906
> 
> 
> 
> Heck, those unneeded screw holes on the bent up side of the tray could even be used to run additional zipties for cable management assistance...


Will not work. That bracket there dont have any threads to screw on to the back of mobo tray. Plus then you need to mount the SSD onto the bracket itself. So using the holes for zipties wont work either, unless they are super slim.


----------



## Eseuldor

$2 US and some change from Wal-Mart and have both of my SSD's mounted.

No mess no fuss and yes, you can remove the Velcro without damaging the paint on the case in anyway.

Depending on your cable management there is actually room for about 4-5 SSD's to be mounted back there.


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> 
> thanks..!!!!!
> share your ideas.


I would suggest to move the front fan up, so that it blows directly into the case, instead of blowing onto the drivecage. However i would also suggest getting rid of the drivecage all together, since you have ssd's on your hand, and they are really easy to put where ever you'd like.



I used one of the "moduvents" to make a really easy mount that goes where the drivecage used to be.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> 
> 
> $2 US and some change from Wal-Mart and have both of my SSD's mounted.
> 
> No mess no fuss and yes, you can remove the Velcro without damaging the paint on the case in anyway.
> 
> Depending on your cable management there is actually room for about 4-5 SSD's to be mounted back there.


High-five! I use Velcro a lot too, as well as mounting tape for some things, like dampening fans and sticking them to the bottom off-center.


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> I would suggest to move the front fan up, so that it blows directly into the case, instead of blowing onto the drivecage. However i would also suggest getting rid of the drivecage all together, since you have ssd's on your hand, and they are really easy to put where ever you'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> I used one of the "moduvents" to make a really easy mount that goes where the drivecage used to be.


imma do that but im going to use velcro for the ssd's.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> 
> 
> $2 US and some change from Wal-Mart and have both of my SSD's mounted.
> 
> No mess no fuss and yes, you can remove the Velcro without damaging the paint on the case in anyway.
> 
> Depending on your cable management there is actually room for about 4-5 SSD's to be mounted back there.


Will look in to that. Currently mounted in a way it is fine. Once I get my 280 rad up front, then it will need to be moved.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> I would suggest to move the front fan up, so that it blows directly into the case, instead of blowing onto the drivecage. However i would also suggest getting rid of the drivecage all together, since you have ssd's on your hand, and they are really easy to put where ever you'd like.


Now I feel left out







Lol.

I just put my bottom HDD cage back so I had something else to paint


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> I'm curious as to why everyone that wants to hide SSDs behind the motherboard doesn't just Velcro them back there? That would negate the whole screws issue.
> 
> Given that there is 26mm (or just over 1") free space between it and the side panel, it should even work if you use the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter tray that comes with many SSDs.
> 
> My relatively ancient first generation Corsair Force 120 SSD came with the tray and I just used Velcro to hang it vertically on the back of my 5.25" bay.
> 
> It's been there for 3yrs....
> 
> I'd forgo the tray, but I thought perhaps the adhesive from the 3M brand Velcro might take some paint or anodizing off from my SSD housing if I ever wanted to remove it. It probably won't, though.
> 
> However, if you use the tray, you could simply screw it in before installing the motherboard.
> 
> Then the SSD itself would be installed onto the tray by simply removing the back side panel of the case without ever taking the motherboard out!
> 
> No Velcro that way...
> 
> Link to similar adapter tray:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9323/hdc-67/OCZ_SSD_25_35_Adapter_Bracket_-_OCZACSSDBRKT2.html?tl=g12c273s906
> 
> 
> 
> Heck, those unneeded screw holes on the bent up side of the tray could even be used to run additional zipties for cable management assistance...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Will not work. That bracket there dont have any threads to screw on to the back of mobo tray. Plus then you need to mount the SSD onto the bracket itself. So using the holes for zipties wont work either, unless they are super slim.


Understood, I didn't think that through...

However, the Velcro idea still works on either the bare SSD or the SSD tray itself. If you Velcro the SSD tray on to the motherboard tray, just screw the SSD to its tray (which uses the 4 holes on the bottom, leaving the 6 side holes free for zipties, if you want)

As far as zipties go, I don't use thick ones just to hold cables together for management - those are hard to cut when you need to do redo anything and are overkill for that purpose.

I suppose the main conclusion to take away from this is that the amount of free space between the back of the mobo and the side panel makes up for the SSD mounting holes being a pain.

Can't fault Fractal Design for it, it cost them practically nothing to drill 4 extra holes!

If someone's not a tinkerer and their system tested out fine outside the case, I could still see them using screws to mount the SSD(s) during assembly, but I'd stick (heh-heh) to Velcro myself... it's really perfect for SSDs.


----------



## stratosrally

doubled, dammit!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

What could have been done is drill a large hole and make a slit down, so you screw into the SSD and slide the drive into lock position.
Like how Lian-Li does there fans and mounting.
I might if I can try that on my case.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The mount behind mobo is useless. You have to mount the SSD first, then the mobo.
> If you have issues with SSD, you have to remove the mobo.


Only if you're mounting the SSD with screws. 3M works just fine (or velcro, as stratosrally mentioned).









Related note. Lulzy temp-storage:



The result of a "What the **** do you mean the cable won't reach behind the motherboard!?" moment.


----------



## mrrockwell




----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*


Very nice.


----------



## nickt1862

Question: Do any of you know if there's a Fractal Design rep that frequents this forum?

Thanks


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> I would suggest to move the front fan up, so that it blows directly into the case, instead of blowing onto the drivecage. However i would also suggest getting rid of the drivecage all together, since you have ssd's on your hand, and they are really easy to put where ever you'd like.
> 
> 
> 
> I used one of the "moduvents" to make a really easy mount that goes where the drivecage used to be.


You can also use the hdd rack and glue them if you want to mount a few ssd, then use an industrial strength grade velcro at the bottom.
That's what I did, just a suggestion







.


Now I ditched my dvd writer and make space for the hdd and ssd at the drive bay mount, looks neater


----------



## Eseuldor

I don't know about using glue for anything inside my case that may involve parts that will likely be relocated or replaced at a later time...


----------



## vangsfreaken

2 quick question about the core 1000...

1. where can i find the serial number?
2. how can i remove the feet? i can't get them off


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> You can also use the hdd rack and glue them if you want to mount a few ssd, then use an industrial strength grade velcro at the bottom.
> That's what I did, just a suggestion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Now I ditched my dvd writer and make space for the hdd and ssd at the drive bay mount, looks neater


nice man.
good job!!!


----------



## K4IKEN

I've been recently thinking of picking up a SilverStone TJ08-E around August when I come back from training. I do love my R4 a lot, but I would really benefit from having a mATX build because I move around a lot. (driving back and forth from college and potential military career)

We'll see if LGA1150 provides any good mATX boards though. Any idea when to expect 1150 motherboards to be released?


----------



## ElevenEleven

June is the latest on Haswell release that I'm aware of (~June 2nd, but who knows about widespread availability). 1150 motherboards would go along with that.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I've been recently thinking of picking up a SilverStone TJ08-E around August when I come back from training. I do love my R4... ... mATX build


You almost gave me a heart attack just now thinking my 990FX ud7 wouldn't fit!!!

Wait.... now I'm not sure.... oh heck!

Triple checked - phew! ^_^


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Would be nice if there was a rad behind those fans.


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Would be nice if there was a rad behind those fans.


There is a H100i, if I recall correctly.... bottom fan is direct into case, upper 2 are through rad.

*mrrockwell* will be along shortly, I'm sure.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> 2 quick question about the core 1000...
> 
> 1. where can i find the serial number?
> 2. how can i remove the feet? i can't get them off


The serial number should be underneath the case near the front.

And I am pretty sure all of their cases have normal screws that hold the feet in, so unscrew them from the bottom.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> We'll see if LGA1150 provides any good mATX boards though. Any idea when to expect 1150 motherboards to be released?


I need 1150 info like I need another hole in my head. I'm struggling as it is to hold out until DDR4 without beautiful new motherboards and gpus coming out to stare me down.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I need 1150 info like I need another hole in my head. I'm struggling as it is to hold out until DDR4 without beautiful new motherboards and gpus coming out to stare me down.


I hear that! It's like the new GTX Titan staring down my GTX 680's (they're not gonna get along...lol).

But I'm confident I can go a year without jumping to a new chipset. I'm very happy with my current setup, and i doubt any games will come along in the next year that will truly test my hardware at 1080p.

/satisfied

P.S. I hear 1150 will be more geared toward notebooks and ultrabooks.


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Would be nice if there was a rad behind those fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> There is a H100i, if I recall correctly.... bottom fan is direct into case, upper 2 are through rad.
> 
> *mrrockwell* will be along shortly, I'm sure.


Yep you are right stratosrally


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> The serial number should be underneath the case near the front.
> 
> And I am pretty sure all of their cases have normal screws that hold the feet in, so unscrew them from the bottom.


i can't find the serial.... and the feet seems like you have to push out the center


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Yep you are right stratosrally


Damn, I just can't get over how slick that build is... the motherboard tray just seems to float in there.

Someday swap the AX850 for a new AX760i/860i with the red & white logo and it'll be perfect.

Or - just print out a replacement label in those colors on a decal sheet!


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> Damn, I just can't get over how slick that build is... the motherboard tray just seems to float in there.
> 
> Someday swap the AX850 for a new AX760i/860i with the red & white logo and it'll be perfect.
> 
> Or - just print out a replacement label in those colors on a decal sheet!


It's allready been tought of. Just cant decide on the right sticker.


Or


----------



## adridu59

The first one for sure.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> i can't find the serial.... and the feet seems like you have to push out the center


Well, that is not good. It should be underneath the front like I said. Did you buy the case new or used?


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Well, that is not good. It should be underneath the front like I said. Did you buy the case new or used?


brand new


----------



## sobi1984

Finally i made the Mod on my fractal design r4 download And media system. I hope you like it.
This blue Led was killing me.. :banghead:
Soon more from the inside but do not expect a killer Machine.. Only a vfm system With 6tb















Sent from Sobi's GneX


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sobi1984*
> 
> Finally i made the Mod on my fractal design r4 download And media system. I hope you like it.
> This blue Led was killing me.. :banghead:
> Soon more from the inside but do not expect a killer Machine.. Only a vfm system With 6tb
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Sobi's GneX


i saw a guitar stand and an amp~


----------



## sobi1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> i saw a guitar stand and an amp~


a guitar and my logitech's sub you saw


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sobi1984*




Like my LED?


----------



## mrrockwell

Here are first photos with all hardware in the case.


More on that HERE


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just ordered the individually sleeved cables in Red for my AX760i, was going to sleeve them myself but my fingers seize up after a while (stupid hyper mobility syndrome causing stiffness)

Also sending my H80i back to where I purchased it from for an exchange. Might install the new one or just sell it and get a Red Megahalems.

Then that'll be it for a while, need to decorate my house etc.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Here are first photos with all hardware in the case.
> 
> 
> More on that HERE


someone should mail this to fractal and make it the official Define R5!!!!!! omg


----------



## NFL

Quick question before I throw my money at people...will the H80i fit in the rear fan slot of the Define R4? And what would a good fan layout be?


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Quick question before I throw my money at people...will the H80i fit in the rear fan slot of the Define R4? And what would a good fan layout be?


Fits fine









I have the H80i in push/pull, 2 140mm front intake, and 2 140mm top exhaust


----------



## kim jong so ill

I get my Corsair dominator platinum 16gb (4x4gb) 1866 ram kit today. Can't wait to install them


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> brand new


Sorry then, don't know what to tell you. Make sure to look all around the case. Try contacting Fractal.


----------



## NFL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Fits fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the H80i in push/pull, 2 140mm front intake, and 2 140mm top exhaust


Thanks


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Sorry then, don't know what to tell you. Make sure to look all around the case. Try contacting Fractal.


i couldn't find anything at all, i ended up asking FD in a mail


----------



## sobi1984

nice mate! i like the purple one too!!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> i couldn't find anything at all, i ended up asking FD in a mail


Serial should be on the bottom of the case, in the front:


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> someone should mail this to fractal and make it the official Define R5!!!!!! omg


...Modular 5.25 bay. Holy crap why haven't I thought of this before.

Yeah. Definitely emailing Fractal. Also gonna tell them to design a fan mount for that vertical expansion slot that lines up with their side vent, modular placement on the bottom of HDD cages, _offset the damn top vents_, and design the front fans to be hard mounted without that plastic retainer. Filter should still be easily accessible though.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Serial should be on the bottom of the case, in the front:


Ah, well... There's absolutely no sticker on mine at all... Guess i'll have to ask if a picture of the case is enough... Thanks for the picture though


----------



## Eseuldor

#double post


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> ...Modular 5.25 bay. Holy crap why haven't I thought of this before.
> 
> Yeah. Definitely emailing Fractal. Also gonna tell them to design a fan mount for that vertical expansion slot that lines up with their side vent, modular placement on the bottom of HDD cages, _offset the damn top vents_, and design the front fans to be hard mounted without that plastic retainer. Filter should still be easily accessible though.


I would also like to have the front ports moved behind the door for an even cleaner front profile. Preferably running vertical along the right side or horizontal across the top. Or any combination of both.

Something like this maybe?



Probably not to many people who would like this like I would though lol. I tend to only use the front for very short periods of time like copying something to my external drive and I don't want to reach around the back. Outside of that, my door stays closed.


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Just ordered my Arc mini, i should receive it on Monday.. I will post pictures when i get it.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I see Newegg only has 3 Define R4's listed. Window Titanium Gray, Arctic White, and Window Arctic White. Fingers crossed that the black pearl and the others pop back up and Newegg has them on sale. I am jonesing to get the R4 black windowed.


----------



## BBEG

I'm jonesing for a separated R4 windowed panel. Any word or rumor mill on these yet?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I'm jonesing for a separated R4 windowed panel. Any word or rumor mill on these yet?


What country are you in?


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I'm jonesing for a separated R4 windowed panel. Any word or rumor mill on these yet?


Just the window side panel? http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=5&prod=103


----------



## BBEG

That's the one. I in the US and haven't seen those panels available yet. Arc Midi panels even come from outside the States, if I recall correctly.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

J&R has the arc midi panel. I think even wal-mart has it. But you are correct, not seeing the Define window panel


----------



## dtmorgwsu

I have an arc midi panel and on the box it says its for define r4 / arc midi. Its the one from Walmart.


----------



## chowyu

can the h100i support push/pull on fractal r4


----------



## ElevenEleven

Yes in the front.


----------



## BBEG

Can anyone with the Arc Midi windowed panel confirm whether it fits the R4?


----------



## chowyu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Yes in the front.


how about the top?


----------



## ElevenEleven

I believe at the top it would have to be in push or pull only--otherwise the fan-radiator "sandwich" would interfere with stuff on the motherboard. You could probably include a second set of fans over the top of the case for push, with grilles for protection.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Can anyone with the Arc Midi windowed panel confirm whether it fits the R4?


Yeah it fits.


----------



## Yanoflies

I've got an R4, been hearing some rattle/vibration noises lately and I can't pinpoint where it's from. And it's pissing me off.

Sabertooth Z77 (the two 40mm fans)
NH-D14
HDDs
ASUS DCII GTX670
HX650
Fractal's fans

^ those are the possible culprits, anybody experience anything like this? Sounds like something is vibrating and hitting the case.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Are your motherboard fans properly slowing down at low temperatures? I've read they can be noisy at high RPM. Could pass for buzzing from a distance. Other than that, you could briefly unplug your CPU fans and hold your GPU fans with your fingers to stop them, and then see if the buzzing continues. Then listen from which area in the case it comes from. Mechanical drives could also make something that sounds like buzz from a distance.


----------



## Yanoflies

I've ... tried. Except when I listen for it, it doesn't happen. When it happens and I get up from my chair, it stops. I tried stopping the fans already.

Really hard to test for when you don't know when it's gonna happen.


----------



## ElevenEleven

So you're saying it's only audible from certain angles and distances? But not when you're right against your computer? Could be that the sound comes from elsewhere too and makes it seem like it's coming from your computer.

I can hear a generator outside my windows. The sound reflects off glass case doors next to my desk and sounds like it's coming from around my desk, so it's confusing. But it is in fact coming from outside my room.


----------



## Yanoflies

Nah I mean it just is hard to predict. Like it coincidently stops when I get up, etc.


----------



## ElevenEleven

If you can't hear it at all when you're sitting down on the floor immediately next to your case, then I'm inclined to say it's something other than your computer. Could be something on your desk or around it. (Like computer speakers).


----------



## Eseuldor

Assuming you used the little rubber spaces and happen to be like me, check and be sure one or more of them have not 'gone rogue' i.e. fell out or got lost if you have removed/replaced/cleaned some of the parts in your case.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> I see Newegg only has 3 Define R4's listed. Window Titanium Gray, Arctic White, and Window Arctic White. Fingers crossed that the black pearl and the others pop back up and Newegg has them on sale. I am jonesing to get the R4 black windowed.


I hunted around for 4 of the R4 Black ones without the window, Looked at just about every site in the US I could think of and could only find 2, from 2 different places.


----------



## GasMan320

Guys,

What are the best case fans that will move the most amount of air and still be pretty quiet that would fit in the R4?

I was looking at these Cougar CF-V12HP Vortex fans but not sure if they would fit due to the way the front panel fans "snap in".

Here's the link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002

And if you guys know of any better ones that will provide better cooling, please let me know. Thank you!


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yeah it fits.


Heh, now that you mention it, both have the same product codes on Fractal's website. Awesome. Just picked one up from MNJTech (...paid tax, so Antares might end up slightly cheaper). Thanks mang.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GasMan320*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> What are the best case fans that will move the most amount of air and still be pretty quiet that would fit in the R4?
> 
> I was looking at these Cougar CF-V12HP Vortex fans but not sure if they would fit due to the way the front panel fans "snap in".
> 
> Here's the link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002
> 
> And if you guys know of any better ones that will provide better cooling, please let me know. Thank you!


Any 120mm fan will fit in the front fan mount. You just screw them or soft-mount them in place instead of clip them in. 140mm fans will most likely NOT fit, since as I learned the shroud is designed for Fractal's 137mm fans.









That said, when my TY-147s eventually come in I'm going to mod them and the shroud to mount 'em up.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Can anyone with the Arc Midi windowed panel confirm whether it fits the R4?


Yes it does. (fits perfect, no modding, it's the same panel)


----------



## BBEG

Great! 'Cause I have one inbound and I'd be disappointed to find it didn't fit.









Slight update also posted in the build log: 5x TY-147s due in around end of March, side panel inbound, acrylic sheet inbound, measuring for cables tomorrow. I'll have to set my alarm and wake up in the AM.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> 140mm fans will most likely NOT fit, since as I learned the shroud is designed for Fractal's 137mm fans. :rolleyes.


Corsair AF140s fit in the front of the R4 so I think the Cougars will too. Phobya 140mm LED fans also fit.


----------



## BBEG

How interesting. My ruler or eyeball may be off.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

I've changed my mind and thinking about getting a Define R4 instead. Anyone running the case without the plastic front thing? It seems very restrictive towards airflow.


----------



## TechnoProdigy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I have the Window R4
> I haven't had any issues with temps or noise (although I have my case fans running on 7V)
> 
> I also have an H100 mounted in the top of my R4 (push only, p/p is not possible without modification) it fits just fine.
> Only thing you would have to watch out for would be tall MOSFIT heatsinks or RAM positioned high on the mobo


How'd you do that with your video cards near the rear I/O? The shroud looks different than normal, as well as the support bracket which extends most of the length of the PCB.


----------



## K4IKEN

That's the stock bracket on the card. He just applied a carbon fiber vinyl.


----------



## TechnoProdigy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> That's the stock bracket on the card. He just applied a carbon fiber vinyl.


Whoops. I didn't look at his actual video card model. For some reason, I thought they were two 7950's or 7970's. My bad


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechnoProdigy*
> 
> How'd you do that with your video cards near the rear I/O? The shroud looks different than normal, as well as the support bracket which extends most of the length of the PCB.


I just applied Carbon Fiber Di-Noc over a few parts of the brackets so it would match my psu and drive bay

*EDIT* I just saw, K4IKEN beat me to it


----------



## oshu

Hello. I'll be upgrading my secondary computer which is in a "Define Mini" case. I'll have one Antec 620 for the CPU and one for the GPU.
I could use some ideas where to place those radiators and where to put extra case fans







.
Thanks!


----------



## MiiX

If there is space, I would put in in the roof as exhaust. I also think it would be looking awesome.


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Heh, now that you mention it, both have the same product codes on Fractal's website. Awesome. Just picked one up from MNJTech (...paid tax, so Antares might end up slightly cheaper). Thanks mang.
> Any 120mm fan will fit in the front fan mount. You just screw them or soft-mount them in place instead of clip them in. 140mm fans will most likely NOT fit, since as I learned the shroud is designed for Fractal's 137mm fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That said, when my TY-147s eventually come in I'm going to mod them and the shroud to mount 'em up.


whachu talkin bout willis? i got 140s in the front of my R4.....


----------



## BBEG

Hence,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> How interesting. My ruler or eyeball may be off.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Hence,


You're not off. The fans do measure 137-139mm (depending on the brand/model)

It's like TV's and monitors, it's more of a 140mm-class fan


----------



## amdcat

For anyone that owns the Core 1000 case, I'm wondering if when looking directly at the front of the case, is the 120mm off center/ not perfectly in the middle? From the pictures I've seen, it seems that the front 120mm fan is way off from the center.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdcat*
> 
> For anyone that owns the Core 1000 case, I'm wondering if when looking directly at the front of the case, is the 120mm off center/ not perfectly in the middle? From the pictures I've seen, it seems that the front 120mm fan is way off from the center.


give me 10 mins and i will post u some pictures with front panel on and off







its centered if i remember correctly

i even measured it for u with a ruler and used my mad paint skills









here u go panel off



the second pick, well i had black fan but u can see dust ring


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdcat*
> 
> For anyone that owns the Core 1000 case, I'm wondering if when looking directly at the front of the case, is the 120mm off center/ not perfectly in the middle? From the pictures I've seen, it seems that the front 120mm fan is way off from the center.


Front is not center, but the fan mounting holes on the case itself are correct. Why Fractal has done this, i do not know, but its kind weird :\


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Front is not center, but the fan mounting holes on the case itself are correct. Why Fractal has done this, i do not know, but its kind weird :\


because front panel wires are in the way


----------



## MiiX

Nope, they are not, i have mounted my fan on the case itself, not the plastic thingys. Works great, and there is no problem using it. Well, i have cutted my grill a lot to make it more airflow-efficient.


----------



## BBEG

Not overly happy with a discovery made about my R4 today.

Down by the PSU, between it and the rear case wall, one of the rivets in the case floor sticks up enough to prevent the PSU from snugging up against the back wall and screwing in easily. I'd wondered why my X650 had a tough time fitting, and now I know why. I'll have to do a little trimming. (Pics as soon as my replacement Fujifilm cable comes in.)


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Not overly happy with a discovery made about my R4 today.
> 
> Down by the PSU, between it and the rear case wall, one of the rivets in the case floor sticks up enough to prevent the PSU from snugging up against the back wall and screwing in easily. I'd wondered why my X650 had a tough time fitting, and now I know why. I'll have to do a little trimming. (Pics as soon as my replacement Fujifilm cable comes in.)


I imagine if you contact Fractal Design they would be glad to assist you with an RMA


----------



## amdcat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> give me 10 mins and i will post u some pictures with front panel on and off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its centered if i remember correctly
> 
> i even measured it for u with a ruler and used my mad paint skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here u go panel off
> 
> 
> 
> the second pick, well i had black fan but u can see dust ring


Thanks for the pictures. So I guess the fan mounted is center but the way the front mesh/plastic is makes it look off?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdcat*
> 
> Thanks for the pictures. So I guess the fan mounted is center but the way the front mesh/plastic is makes it look off?


Ye, the plastic is making it look off. Here is a picture without mesh and dust filter from the front and from the inside.

From the front, mounted with the plastic Fractal mounts:


From the front, mounted on the case, not the front panel


From the inside, mounted with the plastic Fractal mounts:


Why the **** did my images get tilted?! They are not tilted on my phone or computer


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Just recived my arc mini today

Edit
Just wondering has any braded these cables
on there Fractal Design?


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> If there is space, I would put in in the roof as exhaust. I also think it would be looking awesome.


Thanks, but I will have two radiators.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Hello. I'll be upgrading my secondary computer which is in a "Define Mini" case. I'll have one Antec 620 for the CPU and one for the GPU.
> I could use some ideas where to place those radiators and where to put extra case fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Thanks!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Thanks, but I will have two radiators.


Well, I was thinking the same, like this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/811416/e...herboard-corsair-h70-cpu-cooler#post_10507735
Just with 2 radiators side by side

Pic stolen from reaper~


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotyou1337*
> 
> hey guys how to get rid of this damm dustrings in the front of an arc midi / mini?
> 
> They keep me crazy...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and +rep for everyone who replys


You can mount off the regular filter by popping the front off.
Than you have some possibilities:
Leave it without fan filters and get a dusty case.
Or:
Mount your front like this:
Front (mesh) --> fan --> fan filter
Or like I did :
Front (mesh) --> fan filter (I got a Silverstone magnetic one) --> case that holds the fan --> fan
Here is a picture so you can imagine how it´ll look like:


----------



## gotyou1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> You can mount off the regular filter by popping the front off.
> Than you have some possibilities:
> Leave it without fan filters and get a dusty case.
> Or:
> Mount your front like this:
> Front (mesh) --> fan --> fan filter
> Or like I did :
> Front (mesh) --> fan filter (I got a Silverstone magnetic one) --> case that holds the fan --> fan
> Here is a picture so you can imagine how it´ll look like:


Some more Ideas?







)


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Well, I was thinking the same, like this:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/811416/e...herboard-corsair-h70-cpu-cooler#post_10507735
> Just with 2 radiators side by side
> 
> Pic stolen from reaper~


Define Mini only has one open spot in the roof


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Define Mini only has one open spot in the roof


Oh, mini, sorry, diddnt notice that







Well, I tried my best


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Oh, mini, sorry, diddnt notice that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I tried my best


Yeah its a good idea, I kinda use it in my main build







(Define R3)


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Anyone know where i can buy the 3.5" HDD trays in black?.. I got the White trays in my Arc mini but don't really like them...


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tt-Prodigy15*
> 
> Anyone know where i can buy the 3.5" HDD trays in black?.. I got the White trays in my Arc mini but don't really like them...


I don't think they are offered in black..

Simply go to a local hardware store and get some good black spray paint, take off all the rubber parts off the hdd tray and spray away!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tt-Prodigy15*
> 
> Anyone know where i can buy the 3.5" HDD trays in black?.. I got the White trays in my Arc mini but don't really like them...


Ask around and see if anyone with the White R4 isn't using the HDD trays because they're Black. I'm pretty sure the Arc Mini, Arc Midi and the R4 share the same drive trays.


----------



## adridu59

Hey guys, do you know how I could mount a 120mm fan on the 140mm front panel location?



On a Core 3000.









I guess I could stall it on both sides but how to make sure it's blocked...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tt-Prodigy15*
> 
> Anyone know where i can buy the 3.5" HDD trays in black?.. I got the White trays in my Arc mini but don't really like them...


Paint them. Then you can get any finish you desire (gloss, semi-gloss, matte, ect.)


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Hey guys, do you know how I could mount a 120mm fan on the 140mm front panel location?
> 
> 
> 
> On a Core 3000.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I could stall it on both sides but how to make sure it's blocked...


Buy some cheap 140mm fans, rip out everything so you just have the frames (make shift shroud) and then attach 140mm to 120mm fan adapters.

It would look pretty crappy though.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> It would look pretty crappy though.


Yeah and a bit costly... and very thick. Guess I'll just stall them.


----------



## Hoppo2Def

Here's a pic of my Define Mini with a little mod to allow for my H100i to be installed under the 5.25" bays.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoppo2Def*
> 
> Here's a pic of my Define Mini with a little mod to allow for my H100i to be installed under the 5.25" bays.


I like the look of that H100i location. Very nice.


----------



## Hoppo2Def

Thanks, this is my HTPC. I recently transferred from a Lian Li case to the Node 605, quite a tight fit but it allow me to install a GTX 660ti in it. Making it an official HTPC/Steambox convert.


----------



## gotyou1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoppo2Def*
> 
> Here's a pic of my Define Mini with a little mod to allow for my H100i to be installed under the 5.25" bays.


Maan this is a sick rig!








Do you have a buildlog?


----------



## Hoppo2Def

Unfortunately I do not. This was honestly my first time using a dremel and jigsaw, so when I say that I was not too confident in my skills is definitely an understatement. I will post pics when I'm done with the acrylic for my case window once my u-channel arrives. The H100i's rad fit perfectly and also allowed for tons of airflow for my Titan.


----------



## lcampbell89

Just ordered a Define XL R2 Black Pearl from newegg last night. Going to be installing an Asus Rampage IV Extreme and 3930k in there! The rest is to be figured out at the moment.


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Yeah i might just sand them down, then spray paint them..


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoppo2Def*
> 
> Here's a pic of my Define Mini with a little mod to allow for my H100i to be installed under the 5.25" bays.


GTX Titan.

I have to look at on my squad laptop, my sig rig wouldn't like even looking at your system


----------



## CarbonDrift

I really like my Fractal Define R2 case so instead of changing I cut the HDD tray and fitted an XTX 240 rad in push-pull. I'll take better pics next when when the corsair AF140s get here.


----------



## edelfurioso

look what I just did (not finish, wait for better pics)


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hoppo2Def*
> 
> Here's a pic of my Define Mini with a little mod to allow for my H100i to be installed under the 5.25" bays.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Smart! Looks good!


----------



## blue-cat

I got my lovely R4 White Window last Thursday or something but I had to get my parents to take it away from me because I was unsure it would actually arrive... so didn't buy an air cooler. Got a couple of questions...
Would a dual rad up top be enough for a 965 and a 4850 and would it be possible to fit a full loops with all HDD filled. Or should I just buy the nice orange phanteks?

When I got it out of it's box to see how shiny it was and get that "new pc smell" I realised that it was very white and I didn't like all the little black highlights so might change the screws and rivets to silver or orange. I want to keep everything though in case I ever want to sell it (learnt my lesson with the haf).

Has anyone added colour to the outside of their cases? I really want to add some orange vinyl highlights or something as the white is a little overpowering.

Can't wait to make a buildlog


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Here is a picture so you can imagine how it´ll look like:


How did you attach the Be Quiet! fan?

IIRC their mounts don't naturally fit the front clips right?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> look what I just did (not finish, wait for better pics)


HyperX SSD = So. Much. Win.

Looks great!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> How did you attach the Be Quiet! fan?
> 
> IIRC their mounts don't naturally fit the front clips right?


I´ve just put the rubber things, where you normaly stick your mounting "screw" in" (marked yellow) over the two tips on the pannel (red).

Yes magic paintskills












Spoiler: Thats the way they look like in the front









Spoiler: And you can mount them with screws ;)



Found it on the webs some weeks ago:


----------



## edelfurioso

thanks man but your build itas still BOSS!!!


----------



## Hegro

Hello! First post here. Been using this forum for information for months now and I finally joined. I have a question about my Fractal Design Define Mini. Just picked it up the other day and am thoroughly impressed. Downsizing from a Switch 810 and there is so much room in this case. (enough for me anyways)

I have a question about the fan controller though. Just opened up the box and am looking at the case. Which is the best PCIe slot to mount the controller in? I mounted it in the vertical PCIe expansion slot but it doesn't seem like the front fan will be long enough to connect. I am looking for as good as cable management as possible. Thanks for any help!


----------



## kraftyhosting

My modded Core 1000



See the build log here.


----------



## adridu59

Went to the chinese-held computer shops today:



Now modding begins.


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Hello! First post here. Been using this forum for information for months now and I finally joined. I have a question about my Fractal Design Define Mini. Just picked it up the other day and am thoroughly impressed. Downsizing from a Switch 810 and there is so much room in this case. (enough for me anyways)
> 
> I have a question about the fan controller though. Just opened up the box and am looking at the case. Which is the best PCIe slot to mount the controller in? I mounted it in the vertical PCIe expansion slot but it doesn't seem like the front fan will be long enough to connect. I am looking for as good as cable management as possible. Thanks for any help!


If you mount it in the bottom-most PCI slot position, you can easily feed the cables through the nearby hole in the motherboard tray that is normally obscured by the PSU. I did this myself for a short while and it was nice and tidy.

If you look closely, you can see what I mean here (sorry for the bad pic):


----------



## edelfurioso

look what I just install in my system!!! nice fan(can pi between this to colors)


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> look what I just install in my system!!! nice fan(can pi between this to colors)


Are those the vegas fans I have heard so much about?


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> If you mount it in the bottom-most PCI slot position, you can easily feed the cables through the nearby hole in the motherboard tray that is normally obscured by the PSU. I did this myself for a short while and it was nice and tidy.
> 
> If you look closely, you can see what I mean here (sorry for the bad pic):


Thank you very much for the help!


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Are those the vegas fans I have heard so much about?


This one looks like the newer T.B. Vegas.


----------



## edelfurioso

had to take another pic (a bad one though)


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Are those the vegas fans I have heard so much about?


yes man
got them today.


----------



## Phishy714

Great news guys!

Just called ncix and it looks like they received their Arc Midi R2 shipment today and will be shipping all the orders out shortly.

Woot! will be joining the club sometime next week!


----------



## sWaY20

Ok I just picked up my define r4 today from the mc near me, they gave me the one without the window. My fault I should've looked first, problem is their out anyway, where can I get a widowed side panel from? I checked fractal site but couldn't see where to purchase it from.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok I just picked up my define r4 today from the mc near me, they gave me the one without the window. My fault I should've looked first, problem is their out anyway, where can I get a widowed side panel from? I checked fractal site but couldn't see where to purchase it from.
> 
> tappin from the Note II


Ncix has them for about $23 I believe. Not sure about shipping cost


----------



## kim jong so ill

Link for side panel
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=72083&vpn=FD%2DAC%2DWND%2DDEFR4%2DARC%2DBL&manufacture=Fractal%20Design


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraftyhosting*
> 
> My modded Core 1000
> 
> 
> 
> See the build log here.


Nice.

EDIT: Got a picture of the inside?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Ok I just picked up my define r4 today from the mc near me, they gave me the one without the window. My fault I should've looked first, problem is their out anyway, where can I get a widowed side panel from? I checked fractal site but couldn't see where to purchase it from.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> Ncix has them for about $23 I believe. Not sure about shipping cost
Click to expand...

Thank you I'll give rep to you as soon as my girl gets finished her taxes.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Link for side panel
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=72083&vpn=FD%2DAC%2DWND%2DDEFR4%2DARC%2DBL&manufacture=Fractal%20Design


It says it's for the arc midi, I'm guessing it'll fit the r4 though?

tappin from the Note II


----------



## K4IKEN

Correct.


----------



## BBEG

Shipping will be another $10. Just made that purchase myself and mine is en route as we speak. Type. Whatever.


----------



## ZeVo

Since we are talking about the panels, would the Midi R2 window panel fit my Midi? I'd prefer the smoked black rather than just a normal windowed Midi.


----------



## [email protected]

Completely unrelated, but I just got a Das Keyboard in the mail.

Epic.

That is all.


----------



## K4IKEN

I _really_ want to get a tenkeyless with some Brown switches, but I just can't justify spending that much when I don't make that much extra cash. One of the many disadvantages of being a broke college student.


----------



## Kurio

Hello

I am going for 3X 7950 2 slot with MSI MPower in Arc Midi..

Does that fit? I mean i dont care about temps, im just wonderin if it would fit

greetz


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I am going for 3X 7950 2 slot with MSI MPower in Arc Midi..
> 
> Does that fit? I mean i dont care about temps, im just wonderin if it would fit
> 
> greetz


Nope, sorry.
If you look here and then think that slot 2, 5 and 7 need another slot below it, it wont fit. If it can be mounted with only 1 PCIe slot screwed to the case, I dont think there is enough space cause of the PSU


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraftyhosting*
> 
> My modded Core 1000
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the build log here.


Nice paint job.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I am going for 3X 7950 2 slot with MSI MPower in Arc Midi..
> 
> Does that fit? I mean i dont care about temps, im just wonderin if it would fit
> 
> greetz


If you use a different board, you can.

E-ATX boards that use slot #1 as a pci-e slot (like my Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3)


----------



## Hegro

Okay, more questions about my Define Mini. I want to remove the lower hard drive cage. I am pretty sure I read something in here about drilling out the rivets? Do I just take a small drill bit and drill up through the bottom.? Sorry, never done this before. Thank you.

Edit: okay I actually found a good article on here and it is exactly like I figured it would be. If anyone wants to give me advice on what they did with their fractal define mini then go ahead. I am gonna give this a try though. Pretty straight forward.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Okay, more questions about my Define Mini. I want to remove the lower hard drive cage. I am pretty sure I read something in here about drilling out the rivets? Do I just take a small drill bit and drill up through the bottom.? Sorry, never done this before. Thank you.
> 
> Edit: okay I actually found a good article on here and it is exactly like I figured it would be. If anyone wants to give me advice on what they did with their fractal define mini then go ahead. I am gonna give this a try though. Pretty straight forward.


I used a small drill bit to drill out the rivets from the under-side.

Worked like a charm.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraftyhosting*
> 
> My modded Core 1000
> 
> 
> 
> See the build log here.


aaw, i've been working on a white core 1000 for weeks now... i was so excited to post pictures, and then you got all the fun


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I used a small drill bit to drill out the rivets from the under-side.
> 
> Worked like a charm.


Yup, worked great.. Missed the two on the side but eventually got it all out. Also it rubbed a little of the paint or something off inside the case. Isn't too bad and it doesn't have a Window so I might just leave it. Was thinking about touching it up though. Unsure.


----------



## athlon 64

my titanium grey r4 arriving tomorrow








can"t wait.
Just one question, witch 140mm fan would be good in combination with fractal 140"s , i want a fan that would have similar noise levels so i can put it on the switch with fractals.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> my titanium grey r4 arriving tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can"t wait.
> Just one question, witch 140mm fan would be good in combination with fractal 140"s , i want a fan that would have similar noise levels so i can put it on the switch with fractals.


Did you not want to order additional Fractal 140's?

Otherwise I always recommend Corsair AF140's


----------



## athlon 64

I bought a used one so did not have a choice. Yeah i tought that af140 are perfect. I am also getting a PWM noiseblocker m12p with the case, very quiet and very high CFM, i don"T know should i put it on cpu cooler or use it as the exaust fan.


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Also it rubbed a little of the paint or something off inside the case. Isn't too bad and it doesn't have a Window so I might just leave it. Was thinking about touching it up though. Unsure.


If it bothers you (things like this bother me, so who knows...), I find that dabbing a black Sharpie marker over the missing paint area helps hide it very well if it's a small blemish.

As far as Define Mini mods, I'd highly suggest looking back through this thread. There are a lot of excellent mods you can do already shown in detail that might give you some ideas!


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> my titanium grey r4 arriving tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can"t wait.
> Just one question, witch 140mm fan would be good in combination with fractal 140"s , i want a fan that would have similar noise levels so i can put it on the switch with fractals.


I am replacing my stock Fractal 140s with TY-147s and Gentle Typhoons. To me the noise/performance ratio of the Fractal fans is unacceptable, particularly because these fans only max out at 1000 yet are louder than my AP14s. I'm extremely partial to Thermalright, Noiseblocker, and Gentle Typhoon fans.


----------



## athlon 64

Interesting, some guys say that fractal fans are one of the best in the world, some say thay suck. Well seems like i"m geting two corsair af140"s , so i"ll leave one fractal and put 2 corsairs in.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I am replacing my stock Fractal 140s with TY-147s and Gentle Typhoons. To me the noise/performance ratio of the Fractal fans is unacceptable, particularly because these fans only max out at 1000 yet are louder than my AP14s. I'm extremely partial to Thermalright, Noiseblocker, and Gentle Typhoon fans.


140mm fans are louder than 12mm fans at equivalent RPM. I would call 1000RPM AP-14s noticeable too (I own 6 of them). Good 140mm fans should have higher CFM than equivalent 120mm fans, so you can run them at lower RPM. Fractal Design R2s are pretty quiet between 5V and 7V.


----------



## athlon 64

Well they hit 67CFM witch is very good for a 1000rpm, 140mm slip streams do that at 1250rpm and they are louder. I will keep them at 5v over night, 12V only when i"m gaming and trust me they will be the quietest thing when under load


----------



## kraftyhosting

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by kraftyhosting
> 
> My modded Core 1000
> 
> See the build log here.
> aaw, i've been working on a white core 1000 for weeks now... i was so excited to post pictures, and then you got all the fun










Sorry! Just started it on Friday night. Was a very quick build! Still it came out nice


----------



## Hegro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deornoth*
> 
> If it bothers you (things like this bother me, so who knows...), I find that dabbing a black Sharpie marker over the missing paint area helps hide it very well if it's a small blemish.
> 
> As far as Define Mini mods, I'd highly suggest looking back through this thread. There are a lot of excellent mods you can do already shown in detail that might give you some ideas!


Thank you! Started to do the Sharpie idea but the sharpie black is a lot blacker than the case is and doesn't match very well. Just going to leave it alone I guess.

*ALSO* can anyone help me with SSD and HDD mounting on the Mini without the HD cages. Sorry I am sure this has been gone over 1000x times but I went back through 70 pages and only found so much info. How is everyone running their setups? I was thinking to just putting the SSD in the back if I can make room. ALSO can I just put the HDD in the optical drive cage? Sorry if that isn't the correct term, no idea. I currently have my HDD and SSD in my other build or I would mock it up myself to see if it will all work. Thank you for any help from anyone!


----------



## Hoppo2Def

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hegro*
> 
> Thank you! Started to do the Sharpie idea but the sharpie black is a lot blacker than the case is and doesn't match very well. Just going to leave it alone I guess.
> 
> *ALSO* can anyone help me with SSD and HDD mounting on the Mini without the HD cages. Sorry I am sure this has been gone over 1000x times but I went back through 70 pages and only found so much info. How is everyone running their setups? I was thinking to just putting the SSD in the back if I can make room. ALSO can I just put the HDD in the optical drive cage? Sorry if that isn't the correct term, no idea. I currently have my HDD and SSD in my other build or I would mock it up myself to see if it will all work. Thank you for any help from anyone!


The ODD bay, AKA 5.25" bay, can be filled with a 3.5" Drive. You'll just need a 5.25" to 3.5" adapter for the hard drive.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> 140mm fans are louder than 12mm fans at equivalent RPM. I would call 1000RPM AP-14s noticeable too (I own 6 of them). Good 140mm fans should have higher CFM than equivalent 120mm fans, so you can run them at lower RPM. Fractal Design R2s are pretty quiet between 5V and 7V.


Agreed for the most part, but Gentle Typhoons also have higher CFM for their RPM than most other fans (maybe all other 120mm fans below 2000rpm). It's why they're better on radiators than commercially-available 140mm fans. And while the R2 is quieter at 5V and 7V, the AP14 is quieter still. _That_ is what particularly bothers me: the R2s aren't great air movers in the first place, least of all through filters, and yet my several-hundred-RPM-faster GTs are still quieter. Of my fans, the only ones I have louder than my R2s are my Noctua P12s. They have a sound quality that just... bothers me. "Rough" is the best description I can think of.

(My Noiseblocker I can't really compare fairly. It's ridiculously quiet. Not good through filters either, but I can't think of a better exhaust fan. The only reason I replaced mine with an 800RPM GT is because the cable isn't long enough and I don't have an extension.)

Athlon, I _strongly_ doubt the R2s push that much air. My testing is pretty subjective but I've seen nothing to suggest it moves more air than my AP14s (makes sense since the AP14s are 400-500RPM faster) and the AP14s don't move 67CFM. Methinks the marketing department was pretty liberal with its estimate.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Agreed for the most part, but Gentle Typhoons also have higher CFM for their RPM than most other fans (maybe all other 120mm fans below 2000rpm). It's why they're better on radiators than commercially-available 140mm fans. And while the R2 is quieter at 5V and 7V, the AP14 is quieter still. _That_ is what particularly bothers me: the R2s aren't great air movers in the first place, least of all through filters, and yet my several-hundred-RPM-faster GTs are still quieter. Of my fans, the only ones I have louder than my R2s are my Noctua P12s. They have a sound quality that just... bothers me. "Rough" is the best description I can think of.
> 
> (My Noiseblocker I can't really compare fairly. It's ridiculously quiet. Not good through filters either, but I can't think of a better exhaust fan. The only reason I replaced mine with an 800RPM GT is because the cable isn't long enough and I don't have an extension.)
> 
> Athlon, I _strongly_ doubt the R2s push that much air. My testing is pretty subjective but I've seen nothing to suggest it moves more air than my AP14s (makes sense since the AP14s are 400-500RPM faster) and the AP14s don't move 67CFM. Methinks the marketing department was pretty liberal with its estimate.


I think you mean they have higher _static pressure_ than _many_ fans, not more CFM than most fans. And CFM is not everything. Air is moved in very different ways. It can be pulled in by a fan but then exhausted in an odd cone, with a lot of air escaping toward the sides of the frame. Or it can be well-collimated and travel mostly forward. "CFM" can only really be objectively measured for comparison purposes from a fan if you put a shroud tube onto the exhaust side and measured ALL of the air escaping that fan some predetermined distance away.

GTs are good at moving air through resitricted spaces--but not too restricted. They can get choked up on very densely spaced fin radiators. They have fairly high static pressure and terrible ability to carry air across distance. R2 Silent fans are case airflow fans, which is how they are meant to be. They may have poor static pressure, but they carry air across distances fairly well at low noise. I can feel air from them good 20cm and more away easily even at 5V speed. If you put your hand over downvolted GTs AP-14s , you won't feel anything over like 10cm.

Which brings the following point: they are for completely different purposes, not to mention completely different sizes. Also, I can't hear the R2 Silent fan in my R4 at 800RPM, and the equivalent RPM for total CFM could be as high as 1000-1100RPM, which I would start to hear on a GT AP-14. A GT would be good for rear exhaust on a case, but to be honest, most fans would be good for that, since you don't care what happens to the air after it leaves the case. For case airflow inside the case, GTs are really bad fans.


----------



## edelfurioso

what u guys think i should do next?


----------



## BBEG

No, I meant CFM / RPM for most 120mm fans (particularly at the speeds we typically run our fans), just as Martin (Martinsliquidlab.org) deduced in his fan testing. It's higher CFM / RPM is precisely why it dominates the noise / CFM game for sub-2000rpm fans, since you can run it at lower speeds than other fans but achieve the same CFM. Air pressure is basically a function of air density over a given area; a Gentle Typhoon, for example, has a smaller effective area (especially with that big ol' hub) than an R2, whose airflow is spread over a much larger effective area. If both fans were moving the exact same amount of air, the GT's pressure would be higher simply because it's concentrated over a smaller area. Since AP14s move more air (CFM) than R2s, and over a smaller area, their total pressure (Pascals or whatever unit of measuring pressure you prefer) is significantly higher.

Fun experiment. Take your favorite few fans and install them in the Define's front fan mounts. Make sure the filter is in place. Put your hand in your case, about even with your CPU cooler, the back of your hand facing the front fans. At all voltages, the R2 fans move less air than the AP14s. In fact, you don't begin to feel any significant air flow from the R2s at 12V until just before the motherboard tray. Knock it down to 7V and it creeps even closer to the fans. Down to 5V, and it's still closer to the fans, though not by much. 10CM of reach in the best cased (12V) scenario. Pop off the filter, and I "feel" about 50% greater reach. (Next time I test this it'll be somewhat more structured and while the case is not in its "working" place, which is in a wire rack that's a bit harder to access fully.)

The R2 might be a decent fan on its own, but behind a highly-restrictive obstruction like the Define R4's fan filter it falters in a big way. The motor noise/clicking of the R2 at 7V and 5V are unacceptable _for me_ for the amount of air two R2s up front can actually move through that filter and into the case. I get that the R2s and Gentle Typhoons are for completely different purposes; what I'm trying to convey is that the front fan position is an awful one for the R2s because of the fan filter. High-impedance environments favor higher pressure fans, and the GTs are clear winners over the R2s in this area.


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> what u guys think i should do next?


You could paint the expansion slot covers







I just spray painted mine black and it looks a lot better


----------



## the petes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> You could paint the expansion slot covers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just spray painted mine black and it looks a lot better










why you no like the white!!!!!!!!


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> No, I meant CFM / RPM for most 120mm fans (particularly at the speeds we typically run our fans), just as Martin (Martinsliquidlab.org) deduced in his fan testing. It's higher CFM / RPM is precisely why it dominates the noise / CFM game for sub-2000rpm fans, since you can run it at lower speeds than other fans but achieve the same CFM. Air pressure is basically a function of air density over a given area; a Gentle Typhoon, for example, has a smaller effective area (especially with that big ol' hub) than an R2, whose airflow is spread over a much larger effective area. If both fans were moving the exact same amount of air, the GT's pressure would be higher simply because it's concentrated over a smaller area. Since AP14s move more air (CFM) than R2s, and over a smaller area, their total pressure (Pascals or whatever unit of measuring pressure you prefer) is significantly higher.
> 
> Fun experiment. Take your favorite few fans and install them in the Define's front fan mounts. Make sure the filter is in place. Put your hand in your case, about even with your CPU cooler, the back of your hand facing the front fans. At all voltages, the R2 fans move less air than the AP14s. In fact, you don't begin to feel any significant air flow from the R2s at 12V until just before the motherboard tray. Knock it down to 7V and it creeps even closer to the fans. Down to 5V, and it's still closer to the fans, though not by much. 10CM of reach in the best cased (12V) scenario. Pop off the filter, and I "feel" about 50% greater reach. (Next time I test this it'll be somewhat more structured and while the case is not in its "working" place, which is in a wire rack that's a bit harder to access fully.)
> 
> The R2 might be a decent fan on its own, but behind a highly-restrictive obstruction like the Define R4's fan filter it falters in a big way. The motor noise/clicking of the R2 at 7V and 5V are unacceptable _for me_ for the amount of air two R2s up front can actually move through that filter and into the case. I get that the R2s and Gentle Typhoons are for completely different purposes; what I'm trying to convey is that the front fan position is an awful one for the R2s because of the fan filter. High-impedance environments favor higher pressure fans, and the GTs are clear winners over the R2s in this area.


Then it would maybe be a good solution to use the r2 for exaust and two corsair af"s at intake?


----------



## BBEG

Absolutely. Exhausts have a fairly easy job, especially if you cut away the unnecessarily restrictive mesh and remove that barrier from air leaving the case. Pick a nice, quiet fan, low or variable speed, and be happy.


----------



## tianh

Just ordered my fractal arc midi r2! Can't wait for it to come in..


----------



## DJKAY

Core 1000 gets a USB 3.0 in the front









Just saw it and thought it would be interesting for someone who is going to buy a Core 1K.

Click


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Absolutely. Exhausts have a fairly easy job, especially if you cut away the unnecessarily restrictive mesh and remove that barrier from air leaving the case. Pick a nice, quiet fan, low or variable speed, and be happy.


For this very reason I have become a huge fan of these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186081

Only had 2 to begin with (for the top exhaust) and eventually bought 3 more (rear exhaust, side panel and bottom) replacing the Fractals altogether. Even when I dial them all the way up through my sentry they seem almost non-existent.

I do not know how to measure CFM by myself but these buggers do indeed move ALOT of air.


----------



## lordhinton

Now I need one of those 1k panels xD


----------



## MiiX

Wont work as the thingy is screwed into the case. Have fun buying another front panel








Still, pretty awsome for a C1K


----------



## K4IKEN

Is there anyway to buy an R4 non-windowed panel?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Is there anyway to buy an R4 non-windowed panel?


I have one from when the mc gave me the non windowed one, I just ordered the window panel from a site. I won't need the non windowed panel when the new one comes in.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## athlon 64

One more question, can you screw an ssd in an r4 somewhere outside of the hdd cage and not in the back of the MBO tray.
Like when you take of hdd cage entirely, can you screw the ssd upside down on the bottom of 5.25 cages?


----------



## BBEG

I put mine there using 3M tape. I don't see myself screwing drives I'm place again, personally. I've grown very fond of soft-mounting.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> One more question, can you screw an ssd in an r4 somewhere outside of the hdd cage and not in the back of the MBO tray.
> Like when you take of hdd cage entirely, can you screw the ssd upside down on the bottom of 5.25 cages?


Why screw in the ssd, use 3m tape and it'll go anywhere.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## athlon 64

Well i can stick it anywhere but i"m not a fan of soft mounting.. I"d like it screwd in somewhere, i"ll improvise tomorrow when it arrives.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Core 1000 gets a USB 3.0 in the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saw it and thought it would be interesting for someone who is going to buy a Core 1K.
> 
> Click


Yeah they anounced this that day i got my c1k.... and they do not sell sepparately theese pannels...


----------



## athlon 64

I got one more, will this be a good adapter 5.25 adapter for my 2Tb wd green: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQGQfybGaAD1A6DUmyZ1SR2ZhIjkeOErypYFemrEyRYeL7uV8yO

I know it doesn"T have any dampening rubber, will that be a health problem for the drive? I don"t feel like buying a scythe himuro.


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the petes*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why you no like the white!!!!!!!!


I like having the slot covers blend in so more attention is focused on things like the cpu cooler, graphics card, and motherboard but its just personal preference







I think [email protected]'s lime green lime green covers look awesome but that's because they match other things in the build. I'm sure a black and white build with the white slot covers would look awesome too


----------



## DJKAY

Just came home from the cebit and spent quiet some time at Fractal´s stand...
Had a nice conversation with the woman who moderates the videos on their youtube-channel...

But holy crap they had a freaking blog of ice with their logo standing there..











Hope I can take some good pictures withe my 350D on satureday.
....If not melted









Btw talked to the ASUS guys and he said that haswell is going to come in June and is going to kick some asses (but no proof on this).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> I like having the slot covers blend in so more attention is focused on things like the cpu cooler, graphics card, and motherboard but its just personal preference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think [email protected]'s lime green lime green covers look awesome but that's because they match other things in the build. I'm sure a black and white build with the white slot covers would look awesome too


Just took a look at your rig and agree with you...
Maybe the petes should take a look at it too at deserves it


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> I got one more, will this be a good adapter 5.25 adapter for my 2Tb wd green: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQGQfybGaAD1A6DUmyZ1SR2ZhIjkeOErypYFemrEyRYeL7uV8yO
> 
> I know it doesn"T have any dampening rubber, will that be a health problem for the drive? I don"t feel like buying a scythe himuro.


I see that mine opinion doesn't mean anything to you


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> I see that mine opinion doesn't mean anything to you


It does







, just i"d like to get rid of both hard drive cages and get max airflow but stock hdd mount are nicely rubberized and stiff so i wouldn"t like to downgrade by using ****ty adapters. I"m thinking is a scythe himuro a good buy for a wd green or a waste of money.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> I see that mine opinion doesn't mean anything to you


sry for doublepost :/


----------



## oshu

Secondary rig built from leftovers...








Cable work was a ***** and I dont like the sound from the vibrations of the Define Mini.








Putting an Antec 620 on the graphics card whenever I get a bracket from dwood.


----------



## CrAYoN_EaTeR

Just got mine today. have to wait for a few more things to come in before I put my sig rig in it

EDIT: also have a 7970 and Samsung 840 250GB on the way


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> I got one more, will this be a good adapter 5.25 adapter for my 2Tb wd green: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQGQfybGaAD1A6DUmyZ1SR2ZhIjkeOErypYFemrEyRYeL7uV8yO
> 
> I know it doesn"T have any dampening rubber, will that be a health problem for the drive? I don"t feel like buying a scythe himuro.


Maybe this would work for you?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817997036

I got one of these for my other case not too long ago. If I ever decide to put a platter in my R4, I think I would like the look of this on it.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Maybe this would work for you?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817997036
> 
> I got one of these for my other case not too long ago. If I ever decide to put a platter in my R4, I think I would like the look of this on it.


Nah i can"t buy theese in my country and i don"t need hotswap. I"d rather get a scythe himuro then. I have the usual metal adapters i just don"t know is it bad for a wd green not to be on rubber dampeners.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I have one from when the mc gave me the non windowed one, I just ordered the window panel from a site. I won't need the non windowed panel when the new one comes in.
> 
> tappin from the Note II


I may take that off your hands in the future because I'm thinking about downgrading to a TJ08-E around August and want to save the R4 instead of selling it. Don't really want a window on a spare rig you know..


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Core 1000 gets a USB 3.0 in the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saw it and thought it would be interesting for someone who is going to buy a Core 1K.
> 
> Click


Thanks for the photo.









IMHO Fractal Design was quite foolish in not having them both USB 3.0 and include a USB 3.0 to USB 2.0 adapter for those who have mobo's that don't have USB 3.0 mobo header(s).

Just half-done to me like their R4 that doesn't have an independent HDD led.


----------



## sWaY20

I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.

My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?

tappin from the Note II


----------



## ZeVo

Didn't get a reply for my previous question, so I'll ask again.

Would the Midi R2 window fit on the original Midi?


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II


No offense:

Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?

If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> No offense:
> 
> Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?
> 
> If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.
Click to expand...

No offence at all, I wish it was something stupid that I didn't do or forgot to do but I've tried everything. It's all leading to either broken hardware or the front panel is not working. Considering I had a working comp a few hours ago, I doubt any hardware is broke.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> One more question, can you screw an ssd in an r4 somewhere outside of the hdd cage and not in the back of the MBO tray.
> Like when you take of hdd cage entirely, can you screw the ssd upside down on the bottom of 5.25 cages?


u can do what i did with Velcro to my SSD


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> No offense:
> 
> Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?
> 
> If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No offence at all, I wish it was something stupid that I didn't do or forgot to do but I've tried everything. It's all leading to either broken hardware or the front panel is not working. Considering I had a working comp a few hours ago, I doubt any hardware is broke.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
Click to expand...

Ideas if you wish to pursue:

Check the PSU 24 pin and CPU 4/6/8 pin that it's plugged in well.

If so and it doesn't "fire up" take the old case power switch plug and plug it into the mobo of course the two cases would be next to each other - you'll then may find out if it's a faulty power switch on the Fractal case.

Did you place the mobo standoffs in the correct place and not extra ones in that one of them can touch the backside of the mobo hence shorting it out?


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> No offense:
> 
> Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?
> 
> If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No offence at all, I wish it was something stupid that I didn't do or forgot to do but I've tried everything. It's all leading to either broken hardware or the front panel is not working. Considering I had a working comp a few hours ago, I doubt any hardware is broke.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ideas if you wish to pursue:
> 
> Check the PSU 24 pin and CPU 4/6/8 pin that it's plugged in well.
> 
> If so and it doesn't "fire up" take the old case power switch plug and plug it into the mobo of course the two cases would be next to each other - you'll then may find out if it's a faulty power switch on the Fractal case.
> 
> Did you place the mobo standoffs in the correct place and not extra ones in that one of them can touch the backside of the mobo hence shorting it out?
Click to expand...

I'm fixing to pull the old case out in a min, I did installed all the standoffs in the correct place.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> No offense:
> 
> Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?
> 
> If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No offence at all, I wish it was something stupid that I didn't do or forgot to do but I've tried everything. It's all leading to either broken hardware or the front panel is not working. Considering I had a working comp a few hours ago, I doubt any hardware is broke.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ideas if you wish to pursue:
> 
> Check the PSU 24 pin and CPU 4/6/8 pin that it's plugged in well.
> 
> If so and it doesn't "fire up" take the old case power switch plug and plug it into the mobo of course the two cases would be next to each other - you'll then may find out if it's a faulty power switch on the Fractal case.
> 
> Did you place the mobo standoffs in the correct place and not extra ones in that one of them can touch the backside of the mobo hence shorting it out?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm fixing to pull the old case out in a min, I did installed all the standoffs in the correct place.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
Click to expand...

Process of elimination and luckily in having your old case may answer a question or two.

Take your time and please let us know at your convenience.

EDIT: Another "stupid" thing to check: the PSU power switch in the rear if it's in the "ON" position. Nothing is a stupid suggestion though IMHO.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> No offense:
> 
> Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?
> 
> If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No offence at all, I wish it was something stupid that I didn't do or forgot to do but I've tried everything. It's all leading to either broken hardware or the front panel is not working. Considering I had a working comp a few hours ago, I doubt any hardware is broke.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ideas if you wish to pursue:
> 
> Check the PSU 24 pin and CPU 4/6/8 pin that it's plugged in well.
> 
> If so and it doesn't "fire up" take the old case power switch plug and plug it into the mobo of course the two cases would be next to each other - you'll then may find out if it's a faulty power switch on the Fractal case.
> 
> Did you place the mobo standoffs in the correct place and not extra ones in that one of them can touch the backside of the mobo hence shorting it out?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm fixing to pull the old case out in a min, I did installed all the standoffs in the correct place.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Process of elimination and luckily in having your old case may answer a question or two.
> 
> Take your time and please let us know at your convenience.
Click to expand...

Will do thank you, I'll know in a lil bit had to pull away from it for a min.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> No offense:
> 
> Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?
> 
> If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No offence at all, I wish it was something stupid that I didn't do or forgot to do but I've tried everything. It's all leading to either broken hardware or the front panel is not working. Considering I had a working comp a few hours ago, I doubt any hardware is broke.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ideas if you wish to pursue:
> 
> Check the PSU 24 pin and CPU 4/6/8 pin that it's plugged in well.
> 
> If so and it doesn't "fire up" take the old case power switch plug and plug it into the mobo of course the two cases would be next to each other - you'll then may find out if it's a faulty power switch on the Fractal case.
> 
> Did you place the mobo standoffs in the correct place and not extra ones in that one of them can touch the backside of the mobo hence shorting it out?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm fixing to pull the old case out in a min, I did installed all the standoffs in the correct place.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Process of elimination and luckily in having your old case may answer a question or two.
> 
> Take your time and please let us know at your convenience.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will do thank you, I'll know in a lil bit had to pull away from it for a min.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
Click to expand...

I edited/added to my last post so you may not have caught it so read this:

Another "stupid" thing to check: the PSU power switch in the rear if it's in the "ON" position. Nothing is a stupid suggestion though IMHO.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> I just made a thread for help but I just swapped everything into this case, but when I hit the power button on the case nothing happens. I think the front panel is faulty bc the led doesn't even light up, connections are right so idk.
> 
> My question though if I email fractal on this problem would they send me a new front panel so I don't have to swap cases again?
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> No offense:
> 
> Did you plug the power switch wires to the right place on the mobo header?
> 
> If so, try reversing the wires/plug and plug it back in the mobo header as that might do it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No offence at all, I wish it was something stupid that I didn't do or forgot to do but I've tried everything. It's all leading to either broken hardware or the front panel is not working. Considering I had a working comp a few hours ago, I doubt any hardware is broke.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ideas if you wish to pursue:
> 
> Check the PSU 24 pin and CPU 4/6/8 pin that it's plugged in well.
> 
> If so and it doesn't "fire up" take the old case power switch plug and plug it into the mobo of course the two cases would be next to each other - you'll then may find out if it's a faulty power switch on the Fractal case.
> 
> Did you place the mobo standoffs in the correct place and not extra ones in that one of them can touch the backside of the mobo hence shorting it out?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm fixing to pull the old case out in a min, I did installed all the standoffs in the correct place.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Process of elimination and luckily in having your old case may answer a question or two.
> 
> Take your time and please let us know at your convenience.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will do thank you, I'll know in a lil bit had to pull away from it for a min.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I edited/added to my last post so you may not have caught it so read this:
> 
> Another "stupid" thing to check: the PSU power switch in the rear if it's in the "ON" position. Nothing is a stupid suggestion though IMHO.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's on, when I turn it off and on my mobo power light goes off and on to, which leads me to believe my mobo is still ok.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## nickt1862

@ *sWaY20*

*Okay!*

*We'll just await to find out what happens when you use the power switch of your old case.* *Please make sure that both cases don't touch each other as a precautionary measure.*

*Post back once you tried the power switch from the old case.*


----------



## [email protected]

... ... ... _Quoteception_ ... ... ...

Sorry, someone had to say it.


----------



## nickt1862

@ [email protected]

I stopped it before you posted.

So please take it back







save it for another lol!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> @ [email protected]
> 
> I stopped it before you posted.
> 
> So please take it back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> save it for another lol!


No.
We need to go deeper.


----------



## crsn00

Its only been a couple weeks since I finished building my rig and I'm already itching to change something







I want some more airflow going under my case so I made some new feet that raise it up off my desk more. What do you think?


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> What do you think?


I think I want to know what those are made of and how they were made!







I'm presuming CNC machined, but I'm willing to be wrong.


----------



## nickt1862

Is that plastic?

Do you have rubber on the bottom?

Otherwise cool and interesting.


----------



## KaminaSC

Hey guys. Brand new here. Just finished my first rig in a long time. I went with the Define R4 as every one agrees it's a great silent case. I have the stock rear fan running in the back and hooked up to the cases controller and find it to be a bit too loud for me (sitting on my desk not far from me) (even with switch at 5V). Am I crazy? Is this an anomaly, or what? Suggestions?


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> I think I want to know what those are made of and how they were made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm presuming CNC machined, but I'm willing to be wrong.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Is that plastic?
> 
> Do you have rubber on the bottom?
> 
> Otherwise cool and interesting.


I haven't actually made them yet







its just a solidworks model but I plan on making them out of a 1"x1"x20" block of aluminum and using a jigsaw and a router to cut out the shape. Sorry for the confusion lol


----------



## the petes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> No.
> We need to go deeper.


......................THATS what she said.

Too much?









EDIT: probably going to get a PM but it was SOOOO worth it haha. Nuttin but love.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Didn't get a reply for my previous question, so I'll ask again.
> 
> Would the Midi R2 window fit on the original Midi?


Why not email Fractal and ask them? Their customer service is pretty top notch.

Speaking of which, their suggestion to my overaggressive rivet problem: careful application of a file. I'm always down for manufacturers recommending DIY solutions.


----------



## Crax

hey everyone quick question. as im at work right now and dont have much time to access sites and whatnot, i was just wondering if the swiftech h220 with a push/pull configuration would fit into the top of the recently released fractal design define xl r2? i will be slapping some left over noctua f-F12 as the replacements over the helix fans for the rad. hopefully it doesn't run into problems. thanks in advance!


----------



## lundrog

Ok all. Here it is! My Fingers still hurt from installing it all.









Spec's are in my SIG.



Full Size

Folding temps are as follows:

GPU1 72c, GPU2 74c, GPU 3 72c, GPU 4 58c, stock fan speeds.

Game temps are slightly less.


----------



## Paz911

Hi guys

Thinking of getting a 605 for a HTPC/NAS the only this is the 4 bays, do you know if anyone has already modded these cased for more HDD bays or if fractal sell any sort of add-on for more HDD bays in a 605? I need ~8 bays, 7 x 3.5 + a SSD for OS


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> Ok all. Here it is! My Fingers still hurt from installing it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spec's are in my SIG.
> 
> 
> 
> Full Size
> 
> Folding temps are as follows:
> 
> GPU1 72c, GPU2 74c, GPU 3 72c, GPU 4 58c, stock fan speeds.
> 
> Game temps are slightly less.


maaan that looks awesome!
Do you have a buildlog?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Didn't get a reply for my previous question, so I'll ask again.
> 
> Would the Midi R2 window fit on the original Midi?


They told me it wouldn't, because they chnged the chassis...


----------



## nervx

i have a fractal r4 and right now with only the fans that come with the case(one rear, one front-top) everything is fine except when gaming. even with the fans at 12v the gpu gets to the mid 70's. i have two corsair af140's to add to the case. originally i was going to put both fractal fans in the front and the corsairs in the back and top-back but i heard adding a second fan to the front doesnt do a whole lot. what is the best setup with 4 fans in the R4? ideally i would like to keep things at 7v to keep the noise down as well.

3770k with hr02 macho
asus 670 gtx


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nervx*
> 
> i have a fractal r4 and right now with only the fans that come with the case(one rear, one front-top) everything is fine except when gaming. even with the fans at 12v the gpu gets to the mid 70's. i have two corsair af140's to add to the case. originally i was going to put both fractal fans in the front and the corsairs in the back and top-back but i heard adding a second fan to the front doesnt do a whole lot. what is the best setup with 4 fans in the R4? ideally i would like to keep things at 7v to keep the noise down as well.
> 
> 3770k with hr02 macho
> asus 670 gtx


http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod
+
http://triptcc.com/product/basic-bracket/


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> @ *sWaY20*
> 
> *Okay!*
> 
> *We'll just await to find out what happens when you use the power switch of your old case.* *Please make sure that both cases don't touch each other as a precautionary measure.*
> 
> *Post back once you tried the power switch from the old case.*


Sui the other case didn't work to turn it on so I guess my mobo was fried during the swap somehow. Guess I gotta take it out and try to take it back to mc.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## ZeVo

Dang.. I would have preferred to get a smoked window. Guess it's time to whip out the jigsaw.


----------



## nervx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nervx*
> 
> i have a fractal r4 and right now with only the fans that come with the case(one rear, one front-top) everything is fine except when gaming. even with the fans at 12v the gpu gets to the mid 70's. i have two corsair af140's to add to the case. originally i was going to put both fractal fans in the front and the corsairs in the back and top-back but i heard adding a second fan to the front doesnt do a whole lot. what is the best setup with 4 fans in the R4? ideally i would like to keep things at 7v to keep the noise down as well.
> 
> 3770k with hr02 macho
> asus 670 gtx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod
> +
> http://triptcc.com/product/basic-bracket/


not happening. real answers please


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the petes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> No.
> We need to go deeper.
> 
> 
> 
> ......................THATS what she said.
> 
> Too much?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: probably going to get a PM but it was SOOOO worth it haha. Nuttin but love.
Click to expand...

So you think it was a "cool" snide response? If not I didn't understand the response.

Otherwise, have fun to yourselves as I have no time to waste when I was trying to help someone in need of such.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> @ *sWaY20*
> 
> *Okay!*
> 
> *We'll just await to find out what happens when you use the power switch of your old case.* *Please make sure that both cases don't touch each other as a precautionary measure.*
> 
> *Post back once you tried the power switch from the old case.*
> 
> 
> 
> Sui the other case didn't work to turn it on so I guess my mobo was fried during the swap somehow. Guess I gotta take it out and try to take it back to mc.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
Click to expand...

Being that you're going to take the mobo out I would do a minimum try with the mobo on a piece of cardboard. Hook up the PSU and install the RAM (and if the mobo doesn't have integrated graphics to also hook up a GPU but in that scenario you can still do without just to see if the mobo turns on), then hook up the power switch to the mobo header and see if the CPU cooler fan and BIOS beep engages.

Also please make sure that you're actually reading the case (Power, Reset, etc) plug descriptions and that you're hooking them up in the correct mobo header spots. It could be that you have the reset switch or power led hooked up to the mobo header power switch pins and whatnot - even us experienced people have bad days once in a while and can do crazy things.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> @ *sWaY20*
> 
> *Okay!*
> 
> *We'll just await to find out what happens when you use the power switch of your old case.* *Please make sure that both cases don't touch each other as a precautionary measure.*
> 
> *Post back once you tried the power switch from the old case.*
> 
> 
> 
> Sui the other case didn't work to turn it on so I guess my mobo was fried during the swap somehow. Guess I gotta take it out and try to take it back to mc.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Being that you're going to take the mobo out I would do a minimum try with the mobo on a piece of cardboard. Hook up the PSU and install the RAM (and if the mobo doesn't have integrated graphics to also hook up a GPU but in that scenario you can still do without just to see if the mobo turns on), then hook up the power switch to the mobo header and see if the CPU cooler fan and BIOS beep engages.
> 
> Also please make sure that you're actually reading the case (Power, Reset, etc) plug descriptions and that you're hooking them up in the correct mobo header spots. It could be that you have the reset switch or power led hooked up to the mobo header power switch pins and whatnot - even us experienced people have bad days once in a while and can do crazy things.
Click to expand...

I tried that as well with everything out, just heard a tiny sound, can't describe it though. Don't know how but I'm guessing it's just toast. I've never had a problem like this as long as I've been messing with computers, mine and others.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## nickt1862

*@ sWaY20*

I see that you have the ud3h mobo correct (I have the ud5h) so they're similar with some exceptions.

Reseat the RAM and try it, also do you have a spare PSU?

There's also the possibility that the PSU could be bad even though it lights up the led on the mobo.

Also, did you happen to reinstall the Processor when you did the transfer, IF SO I would redo that - IF NOT leave it alone for the test.


----------



## blue-cat

hey guys. This is a weird question and I'd check myself but won't have my hands on my R4 til I go home in a couple of weeks...

I have a Dtek DB-1 which is about 5mm wider than the height of a 5.25 drivebay and was wondering what the clearance between the top of the case and the drivebays is.

I can either buy a 240 rad and micro res and install the pump and res in the drivebays or just go with an Orange Phanteks TC14PE.

(I'm going to be using at least 5 out of the 8 HDD slots).


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> *@ sWaY20*
> 
> I see that you have the ud3h mobo correct (I have the ud5h) so they're similar with some exceptions.
> 
> Reseat the RAM and try it, also do you have a spare PSU?
> 
> There's also the possibility that the PSU could be bad even though it lights up the led on the mobo.
> 
> Also, did you happen to reinstall the Processor when you did the transfer, IF SO I would redo that - IF NOT leave it alone for the test.


I took the ram out and tried one at a time before I pulled the mobo out, I've tried everything I could possibly think of. I didn't pull out the processor when I swapped the case though, but right now everything is boxed up I'm just waiting for the mc to open up. I don't have another psu but I'm almost sure that's not the problem, I guess we'll see soon though.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nervx*
> 
> not happening. real answers please


Nervx:
I would move the front-topfractal to the back-top ,and both fractals exhausting
If you have all hdd bays installed then have af140 in bottom as intake otherwise in front and the other af in side mod vent as intake(unless you have window).,
Ideally I'd suggest getting 1more fan...so front,bottom and side as intakes....rear,top as exhaust..also dust filter any intakes...then test your GPU temps and try side as exhaust....sometimes ,depending on the internal airflow you get better temps with side exhausting.
Also tidy up cable management if you haven't already done so.every little bit helps.
Off topic but important in the long run is dust- I subscribe to the positive airflow theory-more air/pressure coming in stops dust sneaking through gaps,holes,vents in the chassis -not always simple to work out unless you have all the same model fans at same rpm,but a little uncommon sense and time and observation will sort it out.
If none of the above helps then test gaming with side panel removed...if temps are still high then it's a gpu issue-replace tim,maybe better cooler$$$?

Hope this helps
Cgull


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Replacement H80i and sleeved cables have arrived. Pics to follow.


----------



## nervx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> Nervx:
> I would move the front-topfractal to the back-top ,and both fractals exhausting
> If you have all hdd bays installed then have af140 in bottom as intake otherwise in front and the other af in side mod vent as intake(unless you have window).,
> Ideally I'd suggest getting 1more fan...so front,bottom and side as intakes....rear,top as exhaust..also dust filter any intakes...then test your GPU temps and try side as exhaust....sometimes ,depending on the internal airflow you get better temps with side exhausting.
> Also tidy up cable management if you haven't already done so.every little bit helps.
> Off topic but important in the long run is dust- I subscribe to the positive airflow theory-more air/pressure coming in stops dust sneaking through gaps,holes,vents in the chassis -not always simple to work out unless you have all the same model fans at same rpm,but a little uncommon sense and time and observation will sort it out.
> If none of the above helps then test gaming with side panel removed...if temps are still high then it's a gpu issue-replace tim,maybe better cooler$$$?
> 
> Hope this helps
> Cgull


thanks.
side panel is a no go due to cpu heatsink size and noise.
i only have the bottom drive bay installed to hold a storage drive and ssd. the temps there remain fine so the top front fan seems more ideal since it's a straight shot to the gpu.
ill consider a fifth fan for the bottom front later but for now four will have to do.

is there any reason why you would recommend the fractal fans in the back as exhaust over the corsair?


----------



## nickt1862

*@ sWaY20*

*Please keep me/us updated.*

*Hope that exchanging the mobo does the trick.*


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Replacement H80i and sleeved cables have arrived. Pics to follow.


Looking forward to them.









I'm just getting around to finally ordering a side window panel for my Arc Midi and do a few more tweaks too.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> *@ sWaY20*
> 
> *Please keep me/us updated.*
> 
> *Hope that exchanging the mobo does the trick.*


Well they exchanged the mobo and I put it in and it works, so somehow the mobo bit the dust. Thanks for your help and everyone else's. I'll go back soon as I have it up and running and give rep to the peeps that helped.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> *@ sWaY20*
> 
> *Please keep me/us updated.*
> 
> *Hope that exchanging the mobo does the trick.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well they exchanged the mobo and I put it in and it works, so somehow the mobo bit the dust. Thanks for your help and everyone else's. I'll go back soon as I have it up and running and give rep to the peeps that helped.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
Click to expand...

You're welcome.









Happy to hear that you're finally going to get your rig up and running in your new case.

Wonder what happened between the transfer though that it stopped working?

Maybe static electricity or a short? Who knows.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Secondary rig built from leftovers...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable work was a ***** and I dont like the sound from the vibrations of the Define Mini.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Putting an Antec 620 on the graphics card whenever I get a bracket from dwood.


Decided this ^ was stupid an rearranged a bit.


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> *@ sWaY20*
> 
> *Please keep me/us updated.*
> 
> *Hope that exchanging the mobo does the trick.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well they exchanged the mobo and I put it in and it works, so somehow the mobo bit the dust. Thanks for your help and everyone else's. I'll go back soon as I have it up and running and give rep to the peeps that helped.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You're welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy to hear that you're finally going to get your rig up and running in your new case.
> 
> Wonder what happened between the transfer though that it stopped working?
> 
> Maybe static electricity or a short? Who knows.
Click to expand...

That would be my guess, I was never one to wear the bracelet and just touch my file cabinet with my foot while I'm working. Could've been coincidence too idk.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> That would be my guess, I was never one to wear the bracelet and just touch my file cabinet with my foot while I'm working. Could've been coincidence too idk.
> 
> tappin from the Note II


you have to be really unlucky to actually short anything... i just built a system in the core 1000 on my bed, on top of carpets without any problem








EDIT: it's not the first time either, and it has never been a problem


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> That would be my guess, I was never one to wear the bracelet and just touch my file cabinet with my foot while I'm working. Could've been coincidence too idk.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> you have to be really unlucky to actually short anything... i just built a system in the core 1000 on my bed, on top of carpets without any problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: it's not the first time either, and it has never been a problem
Click to expand...

Maybe you're not "that electrifying".
















But with electronics any "stupid" thing is possible without rhyme or reason sometimes.


----------



## NoGuru

Done


----------



## KaminaSC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaminaSC*
> 
> Hey guys. Brand new here. Just finished my first rig in a long time. I went with the Define R4 as every one agrees it's a great silent case. I have the stock rear fan running in the back and hooked up to the cases controller and find it to be a bit too loud for me (sitting on my desk not far from me) (even with switch at 5V). Am I crazy? Is this an anomaly, or what? Suggestions?


Sorry to bump this, but I'd really love to hear some advice from some of you please. You guys know what you're talking about, and I'm trying to learn. Thanks!


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sWaY20*
> 
> That would be my guess, I was never one to wear the bracelet and just touch my file cabinet with my foot while I'm working. Could've been coincidence too idk.
> 
> tappin from the Note II
> 
> 
> 
> you have to be really unlucky to actually short anything... i just built a system in the core 1000 on my bed, on top of carpets without any problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: it's not the first time either, and it has never been a problem
Click to expand...

well I've always been unlucky with stuff, went through several power supply units bc they we doa, so I didn't expect less. I'm learning to start to deal with it better.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaminaSC*
> 
> Sorry to bump this, but I'd really love to hear some advice from some of you please. You guys know what you're talking about, and I'm trying to learn. Thanks!


I also find the stock fans too noisy even at 5V, which is why I'm replacing them. Three motor noise us unacceptable to me. I recommend tryinga couple different fans to see what noise profile you like best. I'm a big fan of Gelid, Enermax, Noiseblocker, Scythe, and Nexus for sound quality.


----------



## KaminaSC

Well...shoot. I guess I'll have to replace that fan. I appreciate the suggestions. Any idea what dBA the stock fans run at or where to find the specs for those puppies?


----------



## BBEG

Check SPCR for a review on the R4 case. I believe they list fan specs for the R2 fan in th review.


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaminaSC*
> 
> Well...shoot. I guess I'll have to replace that fan. I appreciate the suggestions. Any idea what dBA the stock fans run at or where to find the specs for those puppies?


http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=4&prod=79


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Check SPCR for a review on the R4 case. I believe they list fan specs for the R2 fan in th review.


Is there one? I've not seen a proper SCPR review of the latest Define. I believe there latest SCPR reviews are of the Mini and R3.


----------



## KaminaSC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=4&prod=79


Thanks...
I don't know if I believe that though. 14.9 dBA? That's pretty good. I hope that's not right or it will be hard to find something that is going to work for me.


----------



## athlon 64

Any my r4 finally arrived. I just love this thing:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img3230hl.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/img3233wl.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img3239w.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/46/img3230m.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/sassi.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/img3235h.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/img3231b.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/img3210bz.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/img3228m.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/img3221qv.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/img3220u.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/img3212uq.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/img3208s.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/img3205ed.jpg/


----------



## nervx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaminaSC*
> 
> Sorry to bump this, but I'd really love to hear some advice from some of you please. You guys know what you're talking about, and I'm trying to learn. Thanks!


at 5v what youre hearing is air movement unless you got some bum fans. even at 7v on mine they have no motor noise. at 12v there is a bit of motor noise but it's mostly air at this point. last night i tested some corsair af140s and the corsairs are at least twice as loud as the fractals that come with the r4. hell even my thermalright ty140 running at 1100rpm is quieter than the cosairs at 7v. going to return them... not sure what to replace them with.


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Any my r4 finally arrived. I just love this thing:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img3230hl.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/img3233wl.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img3239w.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/46/img3230m.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/sassi.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/img3235h.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/img3231b.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/401/img3210bz.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/547/img3228m.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/268/img3221qv.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/img3220u.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/img3212uq.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/img3208s.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/img3205ed.jpg/


can u please get bigger pics?


----------



## cgull

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nervx*
> 
> thanks.
> side panel is a no go due to cpu heatsink size and noise.
> i only have the bottom drive bay installed to hold a storage drive and ssd. the temps there remain fine so the top front fan seems more ideal since it's a straight shot to the gpu.
> ill consider a fifth fan for the bottom front later but for now four will have to do.
> 
> is there any reason why you would recommend the fractal fans in the back as exhaust over the corsair?


I think the corsairs would push more air,..so better to use them as intakes.

Still think as a quick test you could take the side panel off -just to see if it makes a difference to gpu temps...that way gpu is getting good supply of fresh cool air and also hot air is escaping .. If it works then you know you've got to fix airflow with panel back on.
Know what u mean by noise-I ran a side panel fan for a while,better temps, but a lot louder even with low rpm quiet fan-with the vent closed it was much better and really the whole point of this case is silence
Well build quality,style and price also play a part, but now I'm preaching to the choir. Hehe


----------



## K4IKEN

Fractal's stock fans in the R4 are dead silent to me even at full 12v. I have the case on a little nightstand right next to my desk and with the door closed I don't hear them at all. I guess I'm not as sensitive to sound as some of yall. My only complaint is that they barely move air, but at that sound profile I don't expect to feel a whirlwind behind the fans anyway. I'm actually considering replacing them with some high speed 140mm Yates because they start up voltage for those is 2v so I can crank them for airflow when I'm gaming, or dial them way down for silence.

I don't really hear anything with my headphones on anyway.


----------



## BBEG

The stock Fractal fans are known to have motor noise / clicks at lower voltages and have since the Define R2. Both of the fans that came with my R4 exhibit the same noise.


----------



## nervx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cgull*
> 
> I think the corsairs would push more air,..so better to use them as intakes.
> 
> Still think as a quick test you could take the side panel off -just to see if it makes a difference to gpu temps...that way gpu is getting good supply of fresh cool air and also hot air is escaping .. If it works then you know you've got to fix airflow with panel back on.
> Know what u mean by noise-I ran a side panel fan for a while,better temps, but a lot louder even with low rpm quiet fan-with the vent closed it was much better and really the whole point of this case is silence
> Well build quality,style and price also play a part, but now I'm preaching to the choir. Hehe


tried taking off the panel and the temps still reach 70-75C running the heaven bench, even if i add a fan under or to the side of the card. watching the rpms for the gpu they adjust to keep the card between those temps. im guessing it's the way asus has the fan profile set up for quiet use.(anyone with an asus 670 gtx care to verify?). if i use a custom fan speed to get it up to 60% then the temps drop to the mid 60s.

so i guess with the gpu is set to reach those temps no matter what it's simply a matter of finding a way to dump the air quietly. the corsairs are disappointingly loud. at 12v they are ridiculous and at 7v they're still quite a bit louder than the fractal r2s.


----------



## athlon 64

can u please get bigger pics?

There is a bug in those links, but here are direct ones









http://imageshack.us/a/img850/4707/img3230hl.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img577/1449/img3233wl.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/9681/img3239w.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img46/8873/img3230m.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img850/6236/sassi.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img4/4546/img3235h.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img822/6642/img3231b.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img401/5415/img3210bz.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/9880/img3228m.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img268/5407/img3221qv.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img221/2876/img3220u.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img713/2240/img3212uq.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img600/1866/img3208s.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img13/6058/img3205ed.jpg


----------



## colforbin

Swiftech H220:thumb:


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech H220:thumb:


more pics of your rig please







. thinking about changing coolers.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> more pics of your rig please


This.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech H220:thumb:


Nice grab on that Swiftech H220









What are you getting for temps?


----------



## gotyou1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Nice grab on that Swiftech H220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you getting for temps?


would be interested too.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Corsair H80i reinstalled, Corsair AF140s reinstalled and Corsair sleeved cables installed.



Ignore the opening in the roof, waiting for another AF140 so I can fill it.


----------



## AndenAnden

Think some out there will like this







I put a 400mm radiator in the front of the define R4







took some minimal doing and I was done. Extremly silent fans, the case is amazing.. Here is my log on an another site http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11049-define-r4-med-400mmfront280mmtop-radiator

7.JPG 474k .JPG file


8.JPG 469k .JPG file


b.JPG 487k .JPG file


c.JPG 445k .JPG file


111.jpg 41k .jpg file


222.jpg 40k .jpg file




Lots of stuff left to do, need more money atm







but I will do one thing at a time







hope some out there enjoy what I did


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> Think some out there will like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a 400mm radiator in the front of the define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> took some minimal doing and I was done. Extremly silent fans, the case is amazing.. Here is my log on an another site http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11049-define-r4-med-400mmfront280mmtop-radiator
> 
> 7.JPG 474k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 8.JPG 469k .JPG file
> 
> 
> b.JPG 487k .JPG file
> 
> 
> c.JPG 445k .JPG file
> 
> 
> 111.jpg 41k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 222.jpg 40k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Lots of stuff left to do, need more money atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I will do one thing at a time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope some out there enjoy what I did


Awesome job!

I will most likely copy your idea of the HDD cage location in my Define Mini case after I mount another 120 rad in the lower slot.

REP+


----------



## AndenAnden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Awesome job!
> 
> I will most likely copy your idea of the HDD cage location in my Define Mini case after I mount another 120 rad in the lower slot.
> 
> REP+


Sounds like an awesome idea, looking forward to see how it goes







and thank you very much


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> 
> 
> Swiftech H220:thumb:


I was thinking about grabbing the H220 when I get my Define R4. Was it a tight fit? And like everyone else has said, it looks good and more pics please


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> Think some out there will like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put a 400mm radiator in the front of the define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> took some minimal doing and I was done. Extremly silent fans, the case is amazing.. Here is my log on an another site http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11049-define-r4-med-400mmfront280mmtop-radiator
> 
> 
> 
> Lots of stuff left to do, need more money atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I will do one thing at a time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope some out there enjoy what I did


Am I the only one who is confused.... where's the waterblocks and pump and tubing. No point in having a radiator just chilling there. Unless your adding it all later ?


----------



## AndenAnden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Am I the only one who is confused.... where's the waterblocks and pump and tubing. No point in having a radiator just chilling there. Unless your adding it all later ?


Hehe, you are correct. I am quite silly, but all in all. I have to buy like 1-2 parts each month. And who wouldnt start with the most challening part first just for the hell of it and having something fun to do. and the fans make no noise what so ever so basicly it just ads extra cooling without the radiator. I am not done by a longshot. So it makes sense for the moment to have it in there.

Believe me, I would love to have the blocks, pumps and everything. but not everybody can afford an entire watercooling system in one go. Next on the list is installing the res, and doing the tubing, and again. it will still not be working. its just fun to do it meanwhile, and it wont what so ever decrease preformance


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Received my Arc Midi R2 at my door. What a stunning case, I absolutely love it over my old Phantom.


----------



## Casman

My new Fractal Define R4. Best case I've ever owned!


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Casman*
> 
> My new Fractal Define R4. Best case I've ever owned!


That top photo is beautiful and I like the blue lighting in the second. The first thing I thought about my white R4 was that it was TOO WHITE. You've added nice highlights


----------



## Casman

Thank you kindly sir! Means a lot.


----------



## K4IKEN

Put the specs of you system in your sig so we can see what you're running.

Looks great though.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Casman*
> 
> My new Fractal Define R4. Best case I've ever owned!


Excellent looking build! Welcome to the club!


----------



## Dogge

After being a Macintosh user for the last 15 years, I have finally got feed up with Apples products that just keep getting worse for every release the last 5 years. So I decided to change platform and I've had some problems to choose from all the nice products on this side of the world of computers but this is what I've chosen. What do you think of it so far?

I'm still waiting for SSD, GPU and CPU cooler. I will go for the Samsung 840 pro 256GB SSD and EVGA 660Ti 2GB. I think I will go for the H100i CPU cooler to start with and later on build some custom watercooling. Some fans and nice sleeving as well.

The case was the hardest part to choose, but thx to you and your nice builds and some reviews I spent the money on the Define R4 in white. Hope I love it as much as you do..


----------



## K4IKEN

You'll definitely love the case. Looks like a nice set of parts there. Be sure to update when you've finished!


----------



## CrAYoN_EaTeR

I have one Spare Corsair AF120 fan where should i put it i have two as intake and one as exhaust and two more on my Thermalright Venomous X cooler any suggestions?


----------



## edelfurioso

what psu cable do u guys recommend and what color?


----------



## K4IKEN

Color wise, I would just go with black in your system.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrAYoN_EaTeR*
> 
> I have one Spare Corsair AF120 fan where should i put it i have two as intake and one as exhaust and two more on my Thermalright Venomous X cooler any suggestions?


I would start by filling front, side and bottom with intake fans.


----------



## Magnum26

In an R4: 2 x 140mm front and 1 x 140mm bottom intake (if space), 1 x 140mm rear exhaust 2 x 120mm top exhaust (using a H220) and a side window, some LEDs. Job Done.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Nice grab on that Swiftech H220
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you getting for temps?


i3570k @ 4.6 1.32v running OCCT 4.3.2 for an hour with an avg core of 68c.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> I was thinking about grabbing the H220 when I get my Define R4. Was it a tight fit? And like everyone else has said, it looks good and more pics please


Somewhat tight. I have it setup on the offset 120 holes. Here are some pics too. Had to rotate pump due north/south due to RAM issues.


----------



## athlon 64

That"s a very nice looking desk. Btw why don"T you guys take those plastich crap off the hdd cages when you remove the middle one. It looks so much better withouth them.


----------



## Kimir

It's been a while since I've posted here, I changed the H100i and completed the custom loop (that was with the SLI cards only at first) with the cpu.


I also unscrewed the ssds from the case and put them on the tray shipped with them and put some scratch. Look at that mess,



I'm probably gonna try white tubing sometime soon, it may look better.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Somewhat tight. I have it setup on the offset 120 holes. Here are some pics too. Had to rotate pump due north/south due to RAM issues.


What fans are those on your intakes?


----------



## adridu59

It looks pretty great mate cheers!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It's been a while since I've posted here, I changed the H100i and completed the custom loop (that was with the SLI cards only at first) with the cpu.
> 
> I'm probably gonna try white tubing sometime soon, it may look better.


Looks great!

Why not have the top radiator fans in pull, taking cool air from the outside, and the rear fan as exhaust?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> Why not have the top radiator fans in pull, taking cool air from the outside, and the rear fan as exhaust?


I plan to try that, I'm actually trying with the rear as intake, it was exhaust a day ago.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> What fans are those on your intakes?


Noctua's AF-14 FLX (Outtake in back & intake on Bottom), Noctua NF-14 FLX Front intake & one stock Fractal. The Noctua in the front really doesn't fit perfectly, but it will have to do for now.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I plan to try that, I'm actually trying with the rear as intake, it was exhaust a day ago.


Radiator fans in pull, especially taking in fresh air, should cool that radiator significantly better than fans in push using recycled warm air.


----------



## beldecca

Has anyone seen an externally mounted rad on a Arc Mini (that is where the plastic filter piece normally goes)? Thinking that a 280 might fit outside of the case.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Noctua's AF-14 FLX (Outtake in back & intake on Bottom), Noctua NF-14 FLX Front intake & one stock Fractal. The Noctua in the front really doesn't fit perfectly, but it will have to do for now.


How's the air to noise ratio? Would you recommend any other fans?


----------



## starships

Quick question regarding the Arc Midi R2, does anybody know if it has any problems fitting the Phanteks PH-TC14PE?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> ...Outtake...


*twitch* ...sorry, I have to be that guy.

_*Exhaust*_. Not outtake.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> How's the air to noise ratio? Would you recommend any other fans?


Noctua's are pretty good on both, and I am happy with them. I haven't tried any other brands except for the stock Fractals, and the Swiftech's on H220. I am sure someone else can chime in that has better info.


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> *twitch* ...sorry, I have to be that guy.
> 
> _*Exhaust*_. Not outtake.


No worries. I am here to learn!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starships*
> 
> Quick question regarding the Arc Midi R2, does anybody know if it has any problems fitting the Phanteks PH-TC14PE?


It'll fit easily.


----------



## Sparocool

Hello Members

I have an issue with air flow in my R3... I want to go quiet.

Here are my fans

2x140mm (one blade came off one of my fans so i prefer only to use one)
2x 120mm (stock fractal)
2x 120mm (corsair stock H80)

Currently I have 2 140 in the top (want to remove), the HDD rack has been removed, and I have the fractals in the front, the corsair fans are on the H80 and its pulling air from the case. There is negitive air flow at the moment, this needs fixing, i would prefer the H80 to be pulling air in for the rear but no biggie if it cannot.

I have a H80 cooler and running a 4.6 OC and temps are a sitting around 30 ~ 35º C and getting up around 80 ~ 90ºC in the worst case scenario. (In by dining room with 16 other people 4 rigs 6 Laptops, 4 Xboxs and some random test bench.) It has only over heated once (H80 died) and I would like to keep it this way.

So I am putting it in the hands of you guys (pros) to help me find the best solution for a quiet, cool and positive pressure air flow case.

Thanks guys!


Said LAN (some people not present)


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Noctua's are pretty good on both, and I am happy with them. I haven't tried any other brands except for the stock Fractals, and the Swiftech's on H220. I am sure someone else can chime in that has better info.


I have the previous all biscuit colour ones before they put that brown/red on the edges, all in 140mm I find they are near silent and push quite a lot of air, about 60cfm to about 18db per fan so overall fairly good. I have 3 of these in my current system and only just hear the fans. Most of the noise in my current case comes from my CPU cooler and my GPU, if both are turned down fully you can barely tell the computer is on.

I've also had Xigmatec fans the black and orange ones with white LEDs and although I feel they push more air they are around 5-8db louder than the Noctuas.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> Somewhat tight. I have it setup on the offset 120 holes. Here are some pics too. Had to rotate pump due north/south due to RAM issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool







Thank you


----------



## lundrog

I replaced my 3570k with a 3930k, and my 1155 motherboard with a ASUS Rampage IV Extreme motherboard.

I also replaced my AIO water cooler with a Thermaltake CLW0217 Water 2.0 Extreme/All-In-One Liquid Cooling System.



Spec's are in my Sig, Using five 140mm Fractal Case Fan's. And a 140mm Silverstone Case fan on the side door for intake.

I have six ssd's in raid in a Thermaltake MAX-1562 5.25 HDD bay, as you can see this opened up my case.

I have to say , I am very happy with this rig!

Comments welcome!


----------



## jcamp6336

Good lord!
That is all...


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparocool*
> 
> So I am putting it in the hands of you guys (pros) to help me find the best solution for a quiet, cool and positive pressure air flow case.


Get rid of all your current fans, get Gelid Silent 12's (120mm) and TY-147's (140mm) for the case fans (go all intake on front/side/bottom - so that makes 2x 120mm's on front and 2x 140mm's for side and bottom) and SP120 Quiet for the H80.

Gelid Silent 12 - $9.99 @ Amazon: [2x]
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K6XYWY/

Thermalright TY-147 - $13.99 @ SuperBiiz: [2x]
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=FAN-TY147
(also available $16.99 @ Amazon)

SP 120 Quiet - $14.99 @ Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RESFM2/

BTW, the TY-14x fans are 140x*150*mm, so if you take that make sure it will fit (for side and bottom it should be fine).








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> Comments welcome!


Very nice, what are you doing with that rig?


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> I replaced my 3570k with a 3930k...
> 
> Spec's are in my Sig, Using five 140mm Fractal Case Fan's. And a 140mm Silverstone Case fan on the side door for intake.
> 
> I have six ssd's in raid in a Thermaltake MAX-1562 5.25 HDD bay, as you can see this opened up my case.
> 
> I have to say , I am very happy with this rig!
> 
> Comments welcome!


Try creating a rig using rigbuilder instead of posting the specs in your sig. Then you can have a signature and 3 rigs/photo albums at the bottom. (Look below for an example







)


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Try creating a rig using rigbuilder instead of posting the specs in your sig. Then you can have a signature and 3 rigs/photo albums at the bottom. (Look below for an example
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I believe his Rig in his Sig is a carry over from the old format that OCN had before the upgrade to Huddler.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> It's been a while since I've posted here, I changed the H100i and completed the custom loop (that was with the SLI cards only at first) with the cpu.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm probably gonna try white tubing sometime soon, it may look better.


What are you using for a pump and res? aaaaand.... if you didn't have that extra fan on the front radiator do you reckon you'd be able to fit the other drive cage in, trouting the tubing round the sides?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> I believe his Rig in his Sig is a carry over from the old format that OCN had before the upgrade to Huddler.


Nope, at the time when OCN was on vBulletin there was the exact same sig stuff (custom code carried over).


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sparocool*
> 
> Hello Members
> 
> I have an issue with air flow in my R3... I want to go quiet.
> 
> Here are my fans
> 
> 2x140mm (one blade came off one of my fans so i prefer only to use one)
> 2x 120mm (stock fractal)
> 2x 120mm (corsair stock H80)
> 
> Currently I have 2 140 in the top (want to remove), the HDD rack has been removed, and I have the fractals in the front, the corsair fans are on the H80 and its pulling air from the case. There is negitive air flow at the moment, this needs fixing, i would prefer the H80 to be pulling air in for the rear but no biggie if it cannot.
> 
> I have a H80 cooler and running a 4.6 OC and temps are a sitting around 30 ~ 35º C and getting up around 80 ~ 90ºC in the worst case scenario. (In by dining room with 16 other people 4 rigs 6 Laptops, 4 Xboxs and some random test bench.) It has only over heated once (H80 died) and I would like to keep it this way.
> 
> So I am putting it in the hands of you guys (pros) to help me find the best solution for a quiet, cool and positive pressure air flow case.
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> Said LAN (some people not present)


Re-seat H80i. Something is wrong with your cooler set-up if you're getting such high CPU temperature, or you're using too high of a voltage. Secondly, if that does not help, get some fresh air for the radiator by changing the fans to intake instead of using warm air from inside the case. You may be able to stretch H80 tubes to fit the radiator at the front of the case (I have my H100i there).


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> What are you using for a pump and res? aaaaand.... if you didn't have that extra fan on the front radiator do you reckon you'd be able to fit the other drive cage in, routing the tubing round the sides?


I have the Koolance RP-1005 pump/res combo, not the best choice in the world but I wanted it all in a single 5.25" drive bay.
Even w/o the extra fan, you can't put the upper drive cage cause the lower one is on offset position here and it goes a little under the graphic card. See :

trying pull intake fan on the rad and rear exhaust right now.


----------



## blue-cat

Do you mean the thing that costs about £150 ($250+) ? Perhaps I'll steal the idea and build it myself. If I can find some good radiators for cheap


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I see newegg still only has 3 Define R4's listed . I really want to get the windowed black pearl. (have newegg gift card)


----------



## marlo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marlo*
> 
> I forgot to post my problem when I got my case 4 weeks ago.
> 
> I got the Black Windowed Define R4 for a great price.
> 
> Thankfully it didn't come cracked, or damaged, or with any broken cables. However...
> 
> The area where the power supply is mounted, there are 2 little raised bumps. One is significantly higher so my power supply is not flush and can only be mounted with one screw. I don't know if they cut the metal wrong or something when making the case.
> 
> Did anyone else have this problem?
> 
> I am considering returning it for a replacement.


bump.

didn't bother sending it back because shipping would have been too much due to the weight. Probably as much as the case itself.

Did anyone else have this problem.

Thanks


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marlo*
> 
> bump.
> 
> didn't bother sending it back because shipping would have been too much due to the weight. Probably as much as the case itself.
> 
> Did anyone else have this problem.
> 
> Thanks


Contact Fractal Design, they may just send you a new case. I contacted them because my side panel doesn't sit flush. I asked for a new side panel to see if the problem was with the panel, but it's slight tolerance issue with the case itself. It's not a big deal to me, but I'm sure they would have sent me a new case if I pushed a little. They've replaced fans (one arced when I started it), the fan controller, the pedestal feet, and a side panel, all with no questions asked. The CS can be a little slow at times, but they take care of their customers.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*


Define Mini modding is done









Intake in the front, exhaust in the back.



Looks terrible, but works very well


----------



## Sparocool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sparocool*
> 
> So I am putting it in the hands of you guys (pros) to help me find the best solution for a quiet, cool and positive pressure air flow case.
> 
> 
> 
> Get rid of all your current fans, get Gelid Silent 12's (120mm) and TY-147's (140mm) for the case fans (go all intake on front/side/bottom - so that makes 2x 120mm's on front and 2x 140mm's for side and bottom) and SP120 Quiet for the H80.
> 
> Gelid Silent 12 - $9.99 @ Amazon: [2x]
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K6XYWY/
> 
> Thermalright TY-147 - $13.99 @ SuperBiiz: [2x]
> http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=FAN-TY147
> (also available $16.99 @ Amazon)
> 
> SP 120 Quiet - $14.99 @ Amazon:
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RESFM2/
> 
> BTW, the TY-14x fans are 140x*150*mm, so if you take that make sure it will fit (for side and bottom it should be fine).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lundrog*
> 
> Comments welcome!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Very nice, what are you doing with that rig?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sparocool*
> 
> Hello Members
> 
> I have an issue with air flow in my R3... I want to go quiet.
> 
> Here are my fans
> 
> 2x140mm (one blade came off one of my fans so i prefer only to use one)
> 2x 120mm (stock fractal)
> 2x 120mm (corsair stock H80)
> 
> Currently I have 2 140 in the top (want to remove), the HDD rack has been removed, and I have the fractals in the front, the corsair fans are on the H80 and its pulling air from the case. There is negitive air flow at the moment, this needs fixing, i would prefer the H80 to be pulling air in for the rear but no biggie if it cannot.
> 
> I have a H80 cooler and running a 4.6 OC and temps are a sitting around 30 ~ 35º C and getting up around 80 ~ 90ºC in the worst case scenario. (In by dining room with 16 other people 4 rigs 6 Laptops, 4 Xboxs and some random test bench.) It has only over heated once (H80 died) and I would like to keep it this way.
> 
> So I am putting it in the hands of you guys (pros) to help me find the best solution for a quiet, cool and positive pressure air flow case.
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> Said LAN (some people not present)
> 
> 
> 
> Re-seat H80i. Something is wrong with your cooler set-up if you're getting such high CPU temperature, or you're using too high of a voltage. Secondly, if that does not help, get some fresh air for the radiator by changing the fans to intake instead of using warm air from inside the case. You may be able to stretch H80 tubes to fit the radiator at the front of the case (I have my H100i there).
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help, is there an alternative 140mm fan for the roof? because with my mod I am going red and black...

This was going to go on the inside of the H80 to give a nice effect...
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_510&products_id=16013

Other than that i will pick up some new fans and reseat and change the direction of the H80 fans.

Thanks Guys


----------



## lundrog

Folding and gaming!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Get rid of all your current fans, get Gelid Silent 12's (120mm) and TY-147's (140mm) for the case fans (go all intake on front/side/bottom - so that makes 2x 120mm's on front and 2x 140mm's for side and bottom) and SP120 Quiet for the H80.
> 
> Gelid Silent 12 - $9.99 @ Amazon: [2x]
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001K6XYWY/
> 
> Thermalright TY-147 - $13.99 @ SuperBiiz: [2x]
> http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?p=FAN-TY147
> (also available $16.99 @ Amazon)
> 
> SP 120 Quiet - $14.99 @ Amazon:
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RESFM2/
> 
> BTW, the TY-14x fans are 140x*150*mm, so if you take that make sure it will fit (for side and bottom it should be fine).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice, what are you doing with that rig?


----------



## lurker2501

Can somebody tell me all the sleeving sizes for Fractal Design ARC front panel?


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marlo*
> 
> bump.
> 
> didn't bother sending it back because shipping would have been too much due to the weight. Probably as much as the case itself.
> 
> Did anyone else have this problem.
> 
> Thanks


When I saw your post I immediately remembered BBEG having the same issue.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> 
> 
> The rivets attaching the case floor to the case rear are in horrible, horrible places. They prevent the PSU from snugging up against the back wall. Not terribly awesome. Fractal Design says some trimming should work, which I expected, but still.


----------



## BBEG

I might have found a second issue too that I'll look into today regarding the left side panel screw holes...


----------



## F4ze0ne

Hi. Does anyone know if the Arc Midi R1 will fit a reference 7970 behind the bottom hdd cage?

I'm planning on running 2 cards with similar length to the 7970 (11.6") reference with 3 slot spacing and I'm concerned it might not fit even though I've measured about 12" from the back of the case to the hdd cage.

Thanks.


----------



## marlo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> When I saw your post I immediately remembered BBEG having the same issue.


that's a shame. It's such a nice case but it sucks not being flush with the case.

I sent them an email, but I doubt they would send a whole new case just because of that.


----------



## qwkslvr

Just received it in the mail today. Fractal Design XL R2 completely dwarfs my TJ08-E!


----------



## mtraccer

Hey guys I just received my new Fractal Design ADJUST 108 and it rocks!!! here are some pics!



This controller is really great, it has a brain in it so even if you have the sliders down all the way when you first boot up your computer it gives all the fans 12v for 5seconds to make sure the fans will start turning. Some fans can run on 5v but not start from a dead stop and this controller over comes that! GREAT WORK FRACTAL as always.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwkslvr*
> 
> Just received it in the mail today. Fractal Design XL R2 completely dwarfs my TJ08-E!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm thinking of doing the opposite and down sizing.







Got anymore pictures of the TJ?


----------



## MPX309

LOL. Here's my very budget build . . . I don't use it for gaming, mainly for photoshop. . . I do love the case though and I hopefully will make a build in a mid tower case (again fractal) with better parts


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MPX309*
> 
> *LOL*. Here's my very budget build . . . I don't use it for gaming, mainly for photoshop. . . I do love the case though and I hopefully will make a build in a mid tower case (again fractal) with better parts


Not to be picky, but is this really a good way to start your post--especially your very first one on OCN







Not to mention, there's not much to laugh about there.


----------



## MPX309

Ah thanks man. It's just I looked at a few of the pages before posting and there's some really stunning builds on here


----------



## dioxholster

i actually did the mistake of using velcro instead of cable ties, the noise dampening material in the back of the case got etched off a bit. never again.


----------



## Caesar3301

Hi guys,

I am looking at getting the Fractal design define r4 for my build. I am going to purchase the window seperately. I am going for an understated look but also want this build to look slick.

Two questions -

Will this case support & SLI setup,

2 - Can you guys post pics of any setups with what I'm asking about, ie define r4 with window ( in black pearl )

Cheers guys


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtraccer*
> 
> Hey guys I just received my new Fractal Design ADJUST 108 and it rocks!!! here are some pics!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This controller is really great, it has a brain in it so even if you have the sliders down all the way when you first boot up your computer it gives all the fans 12v for 5seconds to make sure the fans will start turning. Some fans can run on 5v but not start from a dead stop and this controller over comes that! GREAT WORK FRACTAL as always.


Nice photos, thanks - I was about to order one when I see that it is not possible to plug the the fan cables directly into the fan controller and you have to use the cables that come with the FC, even tho' they are detachable I see that it is not the standard socket for fan leads, is that correct?


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caesar3301*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I am looking at getting the Fractal design define r4 for my build. I am going to purchase the window seperately. I am going for an understated look but also want this build to look slick.
> 
> Two questions -
> 
> Will this case support & SLI setup,
> 
> 2 - Can you guys post pics of any setups with what I'm asking about, ie define r4 with window ( in black pearl )
> 
> Cheers guys


If you look back though the last almost 700 pages, you'll find plenty of pictures








But im just gonna share one of mine anyway


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> If you look back though the last almost 700 pages, you'll find plenty of pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But im just gonna share one of mine anyway


In fact if he's only interested in the R4 it's far less than that it only came out around this time last year if I'm not mistaken so only a years worth rather than all the R3 and R2 posts as well.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caesar3301*
> 
> ...Can you guys post pics of any setups with what I'm asking about, ie define r4 with window...


Lots of great pictures in this thread.

SLI (even with 3-slot cards) is not an issue. Click my sig for more HD pictures.


----------



## Casman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Lots of great pictures in this thread.
> 
> SLI (even with 3-slot cards) is not an issue. Click my sig for more HD pictures.


That is an amazing looking color sceme! very unique. awesome indeed!








The carbon fiber on everything is amazing too. and that cable management! Im in love with your build sir.


----------



## Scorpion667

Getting sick of big cases.

I wanna throw my R4E/3930k setup in to an Arc Midi R2. The damn thing is layed out so well. Big setups in small cases <3. Cable management looks a bit more challenging then my 810 (with drive cages removed) but that's not a bad thing. I like a challenge.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Casman*
> 
> That is an amazing looking color sceme! very unique. awesome indeed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The carbon fiber on everything is amazing too. and that cable management! Im in love with your build sir.


Thank you for your kind words


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Getting sick of big cases.
> 
> I wanna throw my R4E/3930k setup in to an Arc Midi R2. The damn thing is layed out so well. Big setups in small cases <3. Cable management looks a bit more challenging then my 810 (with drive cages removed) but that's not a bad thing. I like a challenge.


This is exactly what I'm feeling. Slowly wondering what the point of having a huge case to liquid cool stuff is when my friend has his 2600K at 4.4 or something stupid with his stock cooler. Much rather go for something smaller than a 932 and more elegant.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Getting sick of big cases.
> 
> I wanna throw my R4E/3930k setup in to an Arc Midi R2. The damn thing is layed out so well. Big setups in small cases <3. Cable management looks a bit more challenging then my 810 (with drive cages removed) but that's not a bad thing. I like a challenge.
> 
> 
> 
> This is exactly what I'm feeling. Slowly wondering what the point of having a huge case to liquid cool stuff is when my friend has his 2600K at 4.4 or something stupid with his stock cooler. Much rather go for something smaller than a 932 and more elegant.
Click to expand...

I use to live e-atx cases, due to room and cooling capabilities. But got tired of how much space it took and sometimes look. Once I got my Arc Midi R2,i doubt I will ever go back to full size towers. I even got better overall temps over my switch 810.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## K4IKEN

I'm actually thinking of downsizing even more to the TJ08-E and keeping the R4 if I ever feel the need to step-up the size again. The R4 is such a timeless case and I doubt they'll change too much with the R5 etc. Just got to wait on these here 1150 mATX boards.


----------



## luminous2013

Hey kids,

I just got my Midi R2 today, and I bought 2 Enermax Vegas 140mm fans to install in the front. Problem is, the rubber fan mounts won't fit through the case's mounting holes, and the fans aren't threaded, so I can't screw them into place.

At this point the only thing I can think to do is to use twist ties to fasten the fans to the front of the case (I feel dirty). Has anyone mounted the Vegas fans in this case? If so, how did you do it?

Thanks


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luminous2013*
> 
> Hey kids,
> 
> I just got my Midi R2 today, and I bought 2 Enermax Vegas 140mm fans to install in the front. Problem is, the rubber fan mounts won't fit through the case's mounting holes, and the fans aren't threaded, so I can't screw them into place.
> 
> At this point the only thing I can think to do is to use twist ties to fasten the fans to the front of the case (I feel dirty). Has anyone mounted the Vegas fans in this case? If so, how did you do it?
> 
> Thanks


That design is just bad, as not all mounting can be done with rubber screws. I avoid those fans due to that.
Not much you can do, only thing is return it or try figure out a way to use the rubber mounts.


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luminous2013*
> 
> Hey kids,
> 
> I just got my Midi R2 today, and I bought 2 Enermax Vegas 140mm fans to install in the front. Problem is, the rubber fan mounts won't fit through the case's mounting holes, and the fans aren't threaded, so I can't screw them into place.
> 
> At this point the only thing I can think to do is to use twist ties to fasten the fans to the front of the case (I feel dirty). Has anyone mounted the Vegas fans in this case? If so, how did you do it?
> 
> Thanks


Wait. Fans come with threaded screw holes? I always just put some oomph behind it and forced the screws to tap the plastic...


----------



## luminous2013

Oh man, I trimmed the hell out of the rubber screws with a wire cutter. It took more effort than anticipated, but crisis averted. Thanks for the help.


----------



## luminous2013

The fans that Fractal included are threaded. These Enermax and the Antec tri-cools I had prior were unthreaded. Would have saved me a few hours if they were. Oh well.


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luminous2013*
> 
> Hey kids,
> 
> I just got my Midi R2 today, and I bought 2 Enermax Vegas 140mm fans to install in the front. Problem is, the rubber fan mounts won't fit through the case's mounting holes, and the fans aren't threaded, so I can't screw them into place.
> 
> At this point the only thing I can think to do is to use twist ties to fasten the fans to the front of the case (I feel dirty). Has anyone mounted the Vegas fans in this case? If so, how did you do it?
> 
> Thanks


You must be new to this..

I don't think there are ANY new threaded fans. All fans come with funky looking screws that are SELF THREADING - just need a screw driver and a little muscle to get it in there.

I have my R2 and I sure as hell have different fans in there than what came with the case without using the rubber mounts.


----------



## dioxholster

my case came with those silicon rubber screw things, anyone use those? they really dont explain what all these screws are for.


----------



## BBEG

I don't have a single fan screwed in place in my case; as long as I'm air cooling, I probably never will.



They'll require some finagling and needle nose pliers but to me are well worth it.

Water cooling, though... well, dem rads need support. Doubt I can get away with soft-mounting those.


----------



## luminous2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> You must be new to this..
> 
> I don't think there are ANY new threaded fans. All fans come with funky looking screws that are SELF THREADING - just need a screw driver and a little muscle to get it in there.
> 
> I have my R2 and I sure as hell have different fans in there than what came with the case without using the rubber mounts.


More or less new. My first build was in 2001, but I've been using Antec and only Antec since then. Antec cases, Antec fans, Antec PSUs. This would be my first foray into Fractal.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luminous2013*
> 
> More or less new. My first build was in 2001, but I've been using Antec and only Antec since then. Antec cases, Antec fans, Antec PSUs. This would be my first foray into Fractal.


It's not specific to Fractal Design. New fans come unthreaded.


----------



## luminous2013

Done for tonight. Installed the Vegas fans, upgraded PSU from 450watt to HX750, upgraded GPU from 4850 to 7870. The wiring is a mess, but at least it booted up without a hitch.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luminous2013*
> 
> Done for tonight. Installed the Vegas fans, upgraded PSU from 450watt to HX750, upgraded GPU from 4850 to 7870. The wiring is a mess, but at least it booted up without a hitch.


Congrats and I like the color of the LED glow! Though 450 Watts would have been more than enough for the 7870.


----------



## luminous2013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Congrats and I like the color of the LED glow! Though 450 Watts would have been more than enough for the 7870.


You're probably right. I decided to get the PSU because the 450 was bought in 2007, and it isn't modular. I figure I'll have this one for several years, too, and who knows what power I may need.

I like the fans. I'm going to get a third and replace the exhaust.

Just running through The Witcher 2 tutorial, my frames about tripled. Pretty happy about that.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Looks like i'll be joining you guy's soon. Gonna get the define r4 black pearl with window and get a h100i. Now the only thing left is what atx board to go for. I will also get another evga gtx 670 4gb for sli unless new cards come out in few months time


----------



## mtraccer

Yes that is correct but the cables are black and easy to hide. I'm glad the pics turned out they were taken with my Lumia 920.


----------



## mtraccer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Nice photos, thanks - I was about to order one when I see that it is not possible to plug the the fan cables directly into the fan controller and you have to use the cables that come with the FC, even tho' they are detachable I see that it is not the standard socket for fan leads, is that correct?


Thanks I'm glad they turned out they were taken with my Lumia 920, Yes that is correct but they are black and easy to hide themselves.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Order is placed and hopefully I get my new Define R4 on Wednesday


----------



## Clegnut

Hi i'm new to Overclock.net and I have just finished my R4 build i guess this is the right place to post my build!?

Will post the development of this as its much different now.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clegnut*
> 
> Hi i'm new to Overclock.net and I have just finished my R4 build i guess this is the right place to post my build!?


_*
Welcome!*_

And yes, we LOVE pictures


----------



## Clegnut

How do people prefer the pictures in post or download or in my gallery, sorry for this as i am a new to this posting and such like.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clegnut*
> 
> How do people prefer the pictures in post or download or in my gallery, sorry for this as i am a new to this posting and such like.


On the post it would be nice, but please post them as picture and not attachments: it's the icon right left from the paperclip icon.


----------



## Clegnut

Well here is the first few images of phase 1 of my R4 Build, take out the HDDs as i needed room and was building a nas server as well and have a little tidy up to see what i was left with.


----------



## Clegnut

Second thing to do was to get all the parts I needed to fit, so I measured up and went for it...after many hrs of going ermmmm.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clegnut*
> 
> How do people prefer the pictures in post or download or in my gallery, sorry for this as i am a new to this posting and such like.


Please don't take this the wrong way but you should create a build log documenting the build there. That way you can post the juicy images here and link to your buildlog where there's more detail.
Sorry for sounding preachy because I know your excited by your new kit (as I will be when mine arrives







). But if everyone posted their full buildlogs in here it'd be chaos.

That said, awfully jealous of your new kit and can't wait to see how you make it all fit as I considered a similar set up.


----------



## Clegnut

Test fitting... that didn't quite work how I wanted it to by about 1.5mm, I wanted to put the extended RES Tube on but it wouldn't fit as the manufacturer's dimensions were out by 0.5mm on the pump and 1mm on the tube grrrr. The RAD was a pain as it was a little long for the roof meaning I had to ditch my CD drive and have a long loop between my Bay RES and the RAD, which you will see a bit later on. I can always hook up an external cd drive if I need to.


----------



## Clegnut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Please don't take this the wrong way but you should create a build log documenting the build there. That way you can post the juicy images here and link to your buildlog where there's more detail.
> Sorry for sounding preachy because I know your excited by your new kit (as I will be when mine arrives
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). But if everyone posted their full buildlogs in here it'd be chaos.
> 
> That said, awfully jealous of your new kit and can't wait to see how you make it all fit as I considered a similar set up.


I didn't really want to do a full build log so I am just putting a little bit of info at the beginning so people can see what's going on but it will be pretty much be juicy images from now on.


----------



## adridu59

Could you then post the parts list and add them to your sig? --> http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG

Looks good BTW


----------



## Clegnut

Be warned the Magicool rad screws supplied are 'just' to long and i managed to crack one of the waterways hence the leak, ended up buying another one!


----------



## Clegnut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Could you then post the parts list and add them to your sig? --> http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG
> 
> Looks good BTW


Yep no worries will do it now.


----------



## Clegnut

Last few pictures of the completed case, had to cut the fans about quite a bit to get the RAD in but here it is will get some better photos soon hope you all like it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clegnut*
> 
> How do people prefer the pictures in post or download or in my gallery, sorry for this as i am a new to this posting and such like.


You can embed them in your posts--just make sure they are not huge in size or use OCN's "insert Image" function when posting. If you want to put a LOT of photos in your post, you can always use the "spoiler" tag around the images and rename it to "click for a lot of photos" or something like that.

Like this:


Spoiler: Click for Photos



Sample images here


----------



## blue-cat

Looks nice! Loving the green coolant against the black. Why do you have a bay reservoir AND a reservoir attached to your pump? Is this a test fit because your tubing is quite long especially the one going from your bay res to your Rad. I know clearnaces must be an issue but you could angle the barbs to make a short straight piece of tubing rather than loop down.


----------



## Skullwipe

Didn't get any hep in the water cooling forum so I figured I'd ask here.

I'm looking at picking up a Define XL R2, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience mounting a 240mm Radiator behind the front intakes. I can't find any specific numbers on the amount of space between the optical bays and the bottom of the case, wanting to fit an H220 in there.

I'd appreciate any feedback, this is the deciding factor in my choosing between the Define XL R2 and the Storm Trooper.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Does anyone know if a corsair h110 will fit on top or front without modding on define r4 black pearl with window.


----------



## Skullwipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guy's what would you recommend motherboard for define r4 black pearl with window. Should i go with msi z77 mpower or asus maximus v gene. Will be going sli or crossfire down the road. Also will have a h100i for the time being as well. Would have gone with h110 but i don't think you can fit that or can you on top. Would like to go for a red and black theme. If i do go with the msi mpower will take off the thin metal plates that got yellow on them


I'd get the Asus, unless you need the expansion slots on the Mpower, or plan to run SLI. I really dislike running SLI with the card basically touching.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullwipe*
> 
> I'd get the Asus, unless you need the expansion slots on the Mpower, or plan to run SLI. I really dislike running SLI with the card basically touching.


Thanks for your reply. I will need to run sli due to around september time i will have x3 dell u2713hm for gaming. At the moment i only have x2 dell u2713hm. So i guess its best to go with the mpower board right or does e-atx board fit on the r4 case


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I will need to run sli due to around september time i will have x3 dell u2713hm for gaming. At the moment i only have x2 dell u2713hm. So i guess its best to go with the mpower board right or does e-atx board fit on the r4 case


That would be a no.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> That would be a no.


Thanks so i'll just stick to the mpower then


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> That would be a no.


Really?

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3740_20#post_17930122


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Really?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3740_20#post_17930122


Thanks man for the link. Do you think he made any holes to put the motherboard in


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks man for the link. Do you think he made any holes to put the motherboard in


Not at all, E-ATX uses ATX holes, it's just wider.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Not at all, E-ATX uses ATX holes, it's just wider.


Thanks again


----------



## Clegnut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Looks nice! Loving the green coolant against the black. Why do you have a bay reservoir AND a reservoir attached to your pump? Is this a test fit because your tubing is quite long especially the one going from your bay res to your Rad. I know clearnaces must be an issue but you could angle the barbs to make a short straight piece of tubing rather than loop down.


Just went for both so I have expansion if I need it, no real reason tbh other than I liked the look. I don't like the long length either I got about 6 different fittings to try and get around it but just couldn't make anything fit.


----------



## TheNovice

Thought I'd just share my first case mod and watercooling project....
Fractal Design "Re-Defined XL"

I used my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc. if I was to have a leak.
Next up - new hardware!
Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Thought I'd just share my first case mod and watercooling project....
> Fractal Design "Re-Defined XL"
> 
> I used my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc. if I was to have a leak.
> Next up - new hardware!
> Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!






That is awesome. Love it.


----------



## catbuster

copper pipes are sexy







very clean build luw it


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Thanks for your reply. I will need to run sli due to around september time i will have x3 dell u2713hm for gaming. At the moment i only have x2 dell u2713hm. So i guess its best to go with the mpower board right or does e-atx board fit on the r4 case


_Will H100 fit?_ = *YES*

_Will an E-ATX board fit?_ = *YES*

I used to run an H100 in my sig rig (push or pull ONLY, P/P won't work w/out mods)
I also currently run an E-ATX board in my sig rig. Absolutely no issues (other than covering a bit of the cable routing cutouts)

I hope that helps.


----------



## gotyou1337

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Thought I'd just share my first case mod and watercooling project....
> Fractal Design "Re-Defined XL"
> 
> I used my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc. if I was to have a leak.
> Next up - new hardware!
> Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!






Super awesome!


----------



## Lutfij

The novice - system specs please, thought this would be a good place to ask this question


----------



## NoGuru

Nice Copper build!


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> _Will H100 fit?_ = *YES*
> 
> _Will an E-ATX board fit?_ = *YES*
> 
> I used to run an H100 in my sig rig (push or pull ONLY, P/P won't work w/out mods)
> I also currently run an E-ATX board in my sig rig. Absolutely no issues (other than covering a bit of the cable routing cutouts)
> 
> I hope that helps.


Thanks


----------



## TheNovice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> The novice - system specs please, thought this would be a good place to ask this question


Lutfij - rig is in my profile (don't know how to link in my sinature)








A short re-cap: Old 775 platform, Q9550 (OC'ed to 4 Ghz), 560TI, EK Blocks and radiators, Corsair Dominators, Samsung SSD's....

All - thanks for the nice comments!

\\ M


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Lutfij - rig is in my profile (don't know how to link in my sinature)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A short re-cap: Old 775 platform, Q9550 (OC'ed to 4 Ghz), 560TI, EK Blocks and radiators, Corsair Dominators, Samsung SSD's....
> 
> All - thanks for the nice comments!
> 
> \\ M


I LOVE to see Q9550/Q9650's









I had a QX9770 and another rig with a Q9650......absolutely amazing chips!

Stunning build, _*that copper*_


----------



## BBEG

I love, _love_ the use of metal pipes vs polysomething tubes. I'll have to look into what's needed to bend them and who offers such services near me (since I know beyond a doubt that I don't have the tools to make those nice pretty bends).


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I love, _love_ the use of metal pipes vs polysomething tubes. I'll have to look into what's needed to bend them and who offers such services near me (since I know beyond a doubt that I don't have the tools to make those nice pretty bends).


http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/0_20


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I'd just share my first case mod and watercooling project....
> Fractal Design "Re-Defined XL"
> 
> I used my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc. if I was to have a leak.
> Next up - new hardware!
> Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!


AMAZING. That is pretty impressive man! Wish I could pull something like that off.


----------



## PyroTechNiK

Extremely impressive work TheNovice. That name certainly doesn't suit you.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNovice*
> 
> Thought I'd just share my first case mod and watercooling project....
> Fractal Design "Re-Defined XL"
> 
> I used my old and trusty components - not wanting to ruin new components like MB, GFX, etc. if I was to have a leak.
> Next up - new hardware!
> Sorry for Picture quality - only got my mobile for pics!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Simply amazing! Excellent work!


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1280153/pipe-bending-101/0_20


Most excellent. Thank you sir!


----------



## luminous2013

I don't know what the rules are around here regarding posting in multiple threads, but I wanted to add my Midi build to this thread. I really like this case, issues with installing the Vegas fans aside.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luminous2013*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Bling!


Whoah, I'm getting blinded just by looking at that photo


----------



## FlyingSolo

How good are the fans that come with the r4 case. Cause am thinking should i just put the two fans that come with the case in front and use one corsair af 140 quiet edition. For back as exhaust since you wont be able to see the two fans at the front or should i just get 3 corsair af 140 quiet edition. Two at front for intake and one at back for exhaust


----------



## BBEG

You should probably do a search. You'll find lots of opinions in this thread alone about the R2 fans that come with the Define R4.









(Spoiler alert: I'm not fond of them at all)


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> How good are the fans that come with the r4 case. Cause am thinking should i just put the two fans that come with the case in front and use one corsair af 140 quiet edition. For back as exhaust since you wont be able to see the two fans at the front or should i just get 3 corsair af 140 quiet edition. Two at front for intake and one at back for exhaust


That is exactly what I did, kept the fractal in front and an AF140 in the back. I find them fine enough to stick with them.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> You should probably do a search. You'll find lots of opinions in this thread alone about the R2 fans that come with the Define R4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Spoiler alert: I'm not fond of them at all)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That is exactly what I did, kept the fractal in front and an AF140 in the back. I find them fine enough to stick with them.


Thanks guy's for letting me know. It's just am buying my case today and just wanted to be sure. I already have two af 120 quiet edition fans and two sp 120 quiet edition fans.


----------



## FlyingSolo

I should be joining you guy's tomorrow. Got the fractal design define r4 black pearl with window plus also bought three corsair af 140 quiet edition. Hope i made the right choice not going with the corsair 650d


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Whoah, I'm getting blinded just by looking at that photo


LOL, I was about to say the same thing. Love those fans!


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

Corsair has sleeved cables now for there platinum power supplies!








http://www.corsair.com/us/power-supply-units/psu-accessories-1/professional-individually-sleeved-dc-cable-kit-type-3-generation-2-red.html


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

Just found this browsing on Newegg: Core 1000 for $25 shipped (with code), today only









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352009&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Cases+(Computer+Cases+-+ATX+Form)-_-Fractal+Design-_-11352009


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tt-Prodigy15*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair has sleeved cables now for there platinum power supplies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/us/power-supply-units/psu-accessories-1/professional-individually-sleeved-dc-cable-kit-type-3-generation-2-red.html


Yes they have. Got them in my rig for my AX760i.


----------



## Skullwipe

Debating picking up either the Arc Midi R2 or the Defile XL R2, figured you guys could help me decide which one to go with. My plan is to drop a Swiftech H220 in the front, and my concern is that the lack of a side intake would make my GPU run hot in the Arc Midi. Top mounting is out, I don't trust a single 140mm fan to exhaust my entire system.


----------



## Malik




----------



## zinfinion

Malik wins the thread. May as well shut it down.


----------



## BBEG

Classiest watercooling I've seen... maybe to date. Well done sir.

Honestly, the only thing that'd make it sexier is in a sleek Define case. Windowed of course.


----------



## K4IKEN

I love seeing Malik's system, its so classy, and the top notch photography only adds to the beauty.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's some stunning photograph with shallow DoF you've done there, may I ask what is the lens used? (I see you got a Nikkon D800)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*


I'd love to see some pictures w/out editing. Get a better look at the colors







.


----------



## Hogwasher

Next on the list is some orange and black cougar fans then on to water cooling!

This build is taking time but I hope to do it right and be worth it.

Looks good so far. Love this new case {Arc Midi R2}


----------



## FlyingSolo

Malik your builds are always amazing


----------



## FlyingSolo

If i put the 3M carbon fiber on my corsair ax 750 and say i had to RMA the psu and take off the 3M carbon fiber. Where on the sides it has a sticker saying ax 750 would that come off as well. If it does will they accept it


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's some stunning photograph with shallow DoF you've done there, may I ask what is the lens used? (I see you got a Nikkon D800)


I used two lens: Nikkor 50/1.8G and 85/1.8G


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> I used two lens: Nikkor 50/1.8G and 85/1.8G


Eh, full frame and f/1.8 for sweet DoF is good, and you've good skill.


----------



## adi518

Malik... can you open a build log? please?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Malik... can you open a build log? please?


I would really like that too


----------



## FlyingSolo

Just got my case and i really like this case. At the moment got a mini itx in there. While i wait for other stuff


----------



## athlon 64

I have put a gigabyte 660ti OC in my R4. Looks great


----------



## K4IKEN

I like the idea of placing a moduvent panel on the bottom intake slot. I'm guessing you have a non-windowed version of the case and that's how you were able to get the extra panel, correct?


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Those of you on the Arc Midi original. how are you dealing with noise? I have 4 HDDs running in RAID and a very loud CPU fan, I'm getting around 60, sometimes 70 decibels of sound out of the case and I'd love to lower it to 40 or lower. How much is insulation? Where do you guys buy it? What are cheaper alternatives to insulation? Just added a GTX 660 and am running low on cash







Cheers, thanks guys


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I like the idea of placing a moduvent panel on the bottom intake slot. I'm guessing you have a non-windowed version of the case and that's how you were able to get the extra panel, correct?


Exactly. I have put both fans in the front because it"s very easy to clean the front filter. My r4 doesn"T have a window so i removed the moduvent from the sidepannel, put the sidepannel on the cable management side witch is facing the desk so it doesn"t matter is there a moduvent or not. And then placed it on the bottom.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Ordered an R4 for $85!!!


----------



## Hogwasher

CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done


Looks GORGEOUS!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> CPU water cooled and overclocked to 4.8Ghz. Now need GPU water blocks then I'll finally be close to done


Looks killer!


----------



## Demoscraft

Sign me up! Fractal Define R4.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Looks killer!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Looks GORGEOUS!


Thanks guys


----------



## nervx

Does anyone know how well the 140mm bequiet silentwing 2 fans fit on the front of a fractal r4? Do they fit snug like the stock fans or are they a little loose due to form factor?


----------



## tt-Prodigy15

I will be adding a AX760 with red sleeved cables and red watercooling!









Work in progress...


----------



## Lutfij

@ hogwasher - pretty nice work - like Malik's - so to speak


----------



## OmarCCX

Ordered my rig 2 hours ago, went with a White R4 because it was $40 cheaper than the black one, and that basically covers the shipping for me. Hopefully it looks good in person.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> Ordered my rig 2 hours ago, went with a White R4 because it was $40 cheaper than the black one, and that basically covers the shipping for me. Hopefully it looks good in person.


I love my white one, we see black everywhere already... I actually paid my like 5 bucks more than the black/titanium one.


----------



## K4IKEN

Yea, the finish on the white R4 is amazing. I could never have a white case though. I like having a subtle, silent beast.. (even though my system isn't very beastly














)


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> @ hogwasher - pretty nice work - like Malik's - so to speak


his is on another level but thanks


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yea, the finish on the white R4 is amazing. I could never have a white case though. I like having a subtle, silent beast.. (even though my system isn't very beastly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


It's a very cool grayish "frost" white. Difficult to describe. I love mine. And I love how glossy it is, almost with some pearly sheen.


----------



## K4IKEN

Even the pictures of the white finish look amazing, I can only imagine how good it looks in real life.


----------



## CurtTerror

hi guys

deciding to do a new build & sick of the large weighty & massive towers un necessarily in the room. looking at getting a matx build & looking at fractal arc mini. any comments on t his case? i apologise for my lack of grammar and punctuation, i have three sprained fingers on my right hand & felt compelled to ask this rather than wait any longer!!!









cheers


----------



## Burnt

Hello everyone, been following this thread for a long time because I'm really interested in my next build being a mid-tower but also wanting to go the watercooling route and Fractal just so happens to make sexy cases that fit that bill. I've had my eye on the new arc midi but was wondering if anyone had put an Alphacool Monsta rad in the front of the case? Seems like with the cages removed those two would be a perfect match for one another.


----------



## Sparocool

MYe
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Burnt*
> 
> Hello everyone, been following this thread for a long time because I'm really interested in my next build being a mid-tower but also wanting to go the watercooling route and Fractal just so happens to make sexy cases that fit that bill. I've had my eye on the new arc midi but was wondering if anyone had put an Alphacool Monsta rad in the front of the case? Seems like with the cages removed those two would be a perfect match for one another.


Mate that system is gonna be beastly!


----------



## Sparocool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CurtTerror*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> deciding to do a new build & sick of the large weighty & massive towers un necessarily in the room. looking at getting a matx build & looking at fractal arc mini. any comments on t his case? i apologise for my lack of grammar and punctuation, i have three sprained fingers on my right hand & felt compelled to ask this rather than wait any longer!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers


Are you looking for cooling performance or science??


----------



## Hogwasher

Silence? Or science...lol

Just giving you a hard time


----------



## Malik

Some few shots more:


----------



## Lutfij

I want moar!!!!







Just give us a build log so we can drool all over it! Honestly though I think I subbed to this thread seeing your pics


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> I want moar!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just give us a build log so we can drool all over it! Honestly though I think I subbed to this thread seeing your pics


on weekend i will prepare worklog with all photos


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> I want moar!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just give us a build log so we can drool all over it! Honestly though I think I subbed to this thread seeing your pics


on weekend i will prepare worklog with all photos


----------



## Lutfij

Awaiting matey!


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yea, the finish on the white R4 is amazing. I could never have a white case though. I like having a subtle, silent beast.. (even though my system isn't very beastly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yeah, i can"T stop looking at my titanium front. It"s fantastic.


----------



## K4IKEN

Everytime I see Malik's system my jaw is on the floor..


----------



## drumma022

After only 1 day of owning the Define, I have been thinking how awesome the Midi R2 would look in white. I have a feeling that the Midi R2 is the same as the R4 with only a different top and front panel. Can somebody take a look at these measurements and compare to the Midi R2?

Don't worry, the white is WHITE! Not the crappy off-white that it looks like in the pic.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Some few shots more:






Sexy build.


----------



## K4IKEN

Well my system is officially dead (RIP







). I guess I could RMA the motherboard, but I _really_ don't feel like dealing with another RMA process. I'm keeping the R4 just in case I feel like WC'ing or stepping the size back up, but I'm looking forward to downsizing to the TJ08 this August.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Well my system is officially dead (RIP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I guess I could RMA the motherboard, but I _really_ don't feel like dealing with another RMA process. I'm keeping the R4 just in case I feel like WC'ing or stepping the size back up, but I'm looking forward to downsizing to the TJ08 this August.


Daaaamn that sucks.

My parts should arrive tomorrow. It'll be my first build ever. Can't wait.


----------



## Fear Before

My Core 1000 as of today. New cpu cooler on its way and hopefully new motherboard, cpu, and ssd this summer.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/009ssv.jpg/


----------



## FlyingSolo

Anyone know if the Alpenföhn Alpine Touch Fan Controller is a good fan controller


----------



## Charlie--

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> My Core 1000 as of today. New cpu cooler on its way and hopefully new motherboard, cpu, and ssd this summer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/009ssv.jpg/


Top job, (not easy at all with the limited space of the Core 1000) - Your rig looks fantastic!


----------



## blue-cat

Finally got my hands on my new case and won my orange Phanteks























I wanted to be able to put it back to stock once I tire of it so I'm trying to use adhesive vinyl. VERY difficult. If anyone knows of a simple method of making a template or has an accurate sketchup/CAD model that'd be wicked! haha. Trying to cut out the vinyl to the right size is so difficult even after making templates with sketchup. This is the first version but needs alot of tweaking to get it to fit better.



Also, has anyone tried screwing in their HDDs does it makes a difference?


----------



## Drenalin

My Rig can be seen from my post on page 457. Not much has changed.



To get my 3570k stable at 4.5Ghz i need ~1.35v. With the current fan set-up my CPU temps get to the high 90's after 20 mins of prime. If I change the orientation of my CPU cooler so the the fans are blowing from bottom to top do you think that will help?

Or any other suggestions that might help me achieve better cooling efficiency. I also have a 140mm side fan blowing in.

Cheers


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charlie--*
> 
> Top job, (not easy at all with the limited space of the Core 1000) - Your rig looks fantastic!


Thank you. It has taken me several tries to get it where its at now, but I'm really happy with the outcome.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drenalin*
> 
> To get my 3570k stable at 4.5Ghz i need ~1.35v.


I have always needed "a bit more voltage" on every CPU I have OC'ed for stable operation.

Right now, I am sitting at 4.6GHz and need ~1.33v. 1.35 doesn't seem over-the-top, but load temps do seem high.

I would go about the "re-seat the heatsink, check TIM, flash BIOS, ect." but I assume you have heard that before.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Some few shots more:


Why did you put a teabag in the reservoir?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> My Core 1000 as of today. New cpu cooler on its way and hopefully new motherboard, cpu, and ssd this summer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/009ssv.jpg/


Nice and tidy, I like it







How are your GPU temps?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drenalin*
> 
> To get my 3570k stable at 4.5Ghz i need ~1.35v. With the current fan set-up my CPU temps get to the high 90's after 20 mins of prime. If I change the orientation of my CPU cooler so the the fans are blowing from bottom to top do you think that will help?


Nope, more like the contrary, just get a better (bigger) heatsink.


----------



## adi518

Hmm... Malik, I can't see the tube run from the second port of the top radiator.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

My Define R4 is showing as delivered. Now I have to wait until I get home from work


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> My Define R4 is showing as delivered. Now I have to wait until I get home from work


u will love it


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> My Define R4 is showing as delivered. Now I have to wait until I get home from work


oh yeah that is the worst. Try not to check tracking while I'm at work.

Anticipation- always wins and I check anyways.

I work 12 hour shifts so an already long day becomes much longer when I know there is a toy sitting at home just waiting on me


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Nice and tidy, I like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are your GPU temps?


Thank you. I haven't done any serious tests/gaming with the new GPU yet, but I plan on doing some tonight. I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## OmarCCX

Just built my rig. I'll post some pics tomorrow. I'm exhausted. Took me 4 hours haha.


----------



## dumafourlife

A little curious to jump ship to the define r4 =) my only question, as I have not seen it answered, was the fitment of an Archon cooler in this case. Fractal states that the case supports up to 170mm tall cpu coolers and the archon is 170.2mm







Anyways I know .2 mm is not much but would that mean that the heat sink would be pushing up against the side?


----------



## OmarCCX

All I need now is a DVI cable and a GPU haha.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hmm... Malik, I can't see the tube run from the second port of the top radiator.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumafourlife*
> 
> A little curious to jump ship to the define r4 =) my only question, as I have not seen it answered, was the fitment of an Archon cooler in this case. Fractal states that the case supports up to 170mm tall cpu coolers and the archon is 170.2mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways I know .2 mm is not much but would that mean that the heat sink would be pushing up against the side?


if phanteks ph-tc14pe fits anything fits









Height: 171mm
Width: 140mm
Depth: 159mm


----------



## Eseuldor

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*






Always so classy!


----------



## Lutfij

Yeap, classy indeed!


----------



## Malik

Thanks









More photos with this connection:


----------



## adi518

Hehe... sneaky. It's hard to make such loop look good but you managed and it shows.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Built mine yesterday, the case change took 6 hours...








Looks nice though, need some toggle LEDs and a custom loop though...


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> if phanteks ph-tc14pe fits anything fits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Height: 171mm
> Width: 140mm
> Depth: 159mm


Haha okay thanks. I forgot to check the height with fans of the phanteks. My archon runs ~170mm no fans -____-









EDIT: Also, how much space is there between the phanteks cooler and the side panel?


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I just got my system transfered over to my new Define R4







will try and get some pics up.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> I just got my system transfered over to my new Define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will try and get some pics up.


It was a pain in the arse wasn't it? I did it yesterday!


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> It was a pain in the arse wasn't it? I did it yesterday!


Yeah it was. not because the Define R4 is hard to work in. My main issue was making sure everything was perfect. I won't lie the back of the Mob tray is a complete rats nest of cables. I need to rerun some cables and better bundle them.

Oh and I really like how they included that stand-off screw on tool.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> Yeah it was. not because the Define R4 is hard to work in. My main issue was making sure everything was perfect. I won't lie the back of the Mob tray is a complete rats nest of cables. I need to rerun some cables and better bundle them.
> 
> Oh and I really like how they included that stand-off screw on tool.


Same! I had to wiremanage forever, and moving the all in one watercooler was a pain in itself!


----------



## ElevenEleven

I moved my entire system from Bitfenix Prodigy to my white R4, and it was difficult only in the sense that have OCD about cable management, which took a long time to organize neatly. But my R4 is my favorite unmodded case to date, and in the past year I've used a Prodity, a Silverstone FT02-W in silver aluminum, and an old Antec 902. It's so perfect that I'm not even tempted to paint it (my original plan was to paint it and add textured vinyl to the front, like wood or brushed aluminum).


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I moved my entire system from Bitfenix Prodigy to my white R4, and it was difficult only in the sense that have OCD about cable management, which took a long time to organize neatly. But my R4 is my favorite unmodded case to date, and in the past year I've used a Prodity, a Silverstone FT02-W in silver aluminum, and an old Antec 902. It's so perfect that I'm not even tempted to paint it (my original plan was to paint it and add textured vinyl to the front, like wood or brushed aluminum).


Let's see some pictures!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Let's see some pictures!


Already posted a bunch earlier in the thread--search thread for user name. They are also now in my profile photos.


----------



## OmarCCX

So, I got a front-mounted H100i on my R4 and a single Fractal 140mm fan as a rear exhaust. Would I see much benefit in using the other 140mm fan I have lying around as a top exhaust?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> So, I got a front-mounted H100i on my R4 and a single Fractal 140mm fan as a rear exhaust. Would I see much benefit in using the other 140mm fan I have lying around as a top exhaust?


If your temperatures are good - not much point. If your temperatures are so-so, try the other 140mm fan as bottom intake (or exhaust, depending on your GPU cooler), to the right of your PSU.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Mine:


----------



## vnaut

Hey FD owner's club. I recently just finished my build in a Define R4 in white. It's an amazing case, both in functionality and design (unfortunately, I scratched the right panel while building







, but it still looks great! )

I searched both the internet and this thread, and could not find any information on how to remove the breakable cover from the bottom 5.25 drive cage. Perhaps someone could point me to a video or give a step by step? I was contemplating just trying to rip it off with my hands by applying force to the top, but it looks like it's connected at four points (2 at the bottom, one at the left, and one at the right). Thanks OCN!

http://rwlabs.com/images/articles/fractal_design/define_r3/define_r3_031t.JPG


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vnaut*
> 
> Hey FD owner's club. I recently just finished my build in a Define R4 in white. It's an amazing case, both in functionality and design (unfortunately, I scratched the right panel while building
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it still looks great! )
> 
> I searched both the internet and this thread, and could not find any information on how to remove the breakable cover from the bottom 5.25 drive cage. Perhaps someone could point me to a video or give a step by step? I was contemplating just trying to rip it off with my hands by applying force to the top, but it looks like it's connected at four points (2 at the bottom, one at the left, and one at the right). Thanks OCN!
> 
> http://rwlabs.com/images/articles/fractal_design/define_r3/define_r3_031t.JPG


You usually just force it out. That's what I had to do on a case before.


----------



## vnaut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> You usually just force it out. That's what I had to do on a case before.


Haha, could you elaborate a bit? I was thinking the best method would be to push on it from the back on the left and right side first to dislodge those connections, then sorta rip the rest out.


----------



## Xavin83

The front plastic fan swirl things (forgot the word for it) on my Define R4 is causing my fans to sound like whoooooooooo.
I can hear it although dampened when panels and everything is on (except the top back fan slot) and louder when the front door is opened.
I tried both the fans that came with and a couple be quiets and corsair quiet editions..tried with grommets and everything but to no avail.
Anyone heard anything similiar on their R4?


----------



## HoZy

// Before anyone asks, I'm not planning on posting a build log else ware. Just wanted to show you what was involved with fitting 2x 280mm radiators in my R4, To me all the images were juicy enough to post







//

Hey guys, Purchased the R4 and fell in love, Then decided to tweak the system a little

Started off like:

i7 3770k @ 4.4ghz 1.192v
16gb Gskill TridentX @ 2400mhz
Asrock Fatal1ty Z77 Professional
HD6970 Crossfire (From Old Rig)
Samsung Pro 128gb Windows 8/Apps
OCZ Vertex 4 256gb Games Drive
WD Caviar Black 1tb Temp Drive
WD 200gb Work Drive
CoolerMaster 850w Silent Pro Power Supply
Some bitfenix Extensions



Now...

I've decided to water cool her,
Parts as followed:
XSPC Raystorm Copper Waterblock
EK DCP 4.0 Pump & Res Combo
FRONT- Hardware Labs SR1 280
TOP- XSPC EX280
Koolance Dual 140mm Shroud
Cougar 140mm HDB Fans
Bitspower Compression Fittings
Primochill Primoflex advance LRT bloodshed red tubing

Planned Loop design:


----------



## falcon26

I'm thinking of switching my Corsair 550D to the R4 Window. I have an all blue led thing going, and well the 550D with its white led is throwing things off!


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I'm thinking of switching my Corsair 550D to the R4 Window. I have an all blue led thing going, and well the 550D with its white led is throwing things off!


You should, I came from a corsair case and couldn't be happier.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## Skullwipe

Hey guys, is it possible to remove the door from the Define R4 and Define XL R2? I imagine the airflow through a front mounted Radiator would be better with it gone.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoZy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome! Great work!


----------



## ChesterCat

HoZy: this is 2 separate rads to cool one CPU ?

I'm confused


----------



## falcon26

How are the rubber gourmets in the R4? In my old R3 they came out very very easy and would not really stay in. In my Corsair 550D they are nice stable and stay in great.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How are the rubber gourmets in the R4? In my old R3 they came out very very easy and would not really stay in. In my Corsair 550D they are nice stable and stay in great.


They have been redesigned, and are much better quality







(aka: they stay put)


----------



## falcon26

Good to know. I just bought the R4 Black Pearl Window from Newegg. I'll use my Corsair 550D in my backup system....Also forgot to ask is the front door more of a matte black as opposed to a glossy black?


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Good to know. I just bought the R4 Black Pearl Window from Newegg. I'll use my Corsair 550D in my backup system....Also forgot to ask is the front door more of a matte black as opposed to a glossy black?


I have this case. If you look from a bit far it's like matt black,glossy black kind of effect but when you go close its more like titanium brushed finish. I just don't know how to tell you. I kind of think its like two tone effect. It depends on the lighting of your room. But all i know is that you would love this case


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChesterCat*
> 
> HoZy: this is 2 separate rads to cool one CPU ?
> 
> I'm confused


Yea its two rads to one cpu.


----------



## HoZy

Future proofed for when the 8k Series AMD cards are out. Wasn't worth cooling/upgrading my HD6970's









Thanks for the kind words guys









Cheers
Mat


----------



## D33G33

Finally got there!

Just about to finish leak testing but here she is
3770k
Asus Z77 Sabertooth
EVGA GTX 670 Superclocked 4gb
2x 8gb Corsair Dominator Platinum
2x 120gb Samsung 840's in RAID 0

Koolance 380
XSPC Raystorm GTX 670 Waterblock
Swiftech 655
FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir
BlackIce GT 240 and XSPC RX240 Radiators
6x 2150 Gentle Typhoons.

I haven't built a PC since late '07 and this is my first every watercooled one. I had a blast doing up this one. Cant start to play with is until Wednesday but hopefully can get a decent Overclock out of it









And yes getting that 240 and fan s in the top with a Sabertooth proved VERY interesting indeed...


----------



## NoGuru

Looks fantastic! Well done


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Well ... im planing to buy a new Fractal R4 or Arc Midi R2.

Some significative changes between this two chasis?


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Finally got there!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just about to finish leak testing but here she is
> 3770k
> Asus Z77 Sabertooth
> EVGA GTX 670 Superclocked 4gb
> 2x 8gb Corsair Dominator Platinum
> 2x 120gb Samsung 840's in RAID 0
> 
> Koolance 380
> XSPC Raystorm GTX 670 Waterblock
> Swiftech 655
> FrozenQ Fusion Reservoir
> BlackIce GT 240 and XSPC RX240 Radiators
> 6x 2150 Gentle Typhoons.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't built a PC since late '07 and this is my first every watercooled one. I had a blast doing up this one. Cant start to play with is until Wednesday but hopefully can get a decent Overclock out of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes getting that 240 and fan s in the top with a Sabertooth proved VERY interesting indeed...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that condensation on the reservoir or is it just bubbles inside?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> Well ... im planing to buy a new Fractal R4 or Arc Midi R2.
> 
> Some significative changes between this two chasis?


Well I like to think of it as the R4 being more silent than the R2, but both are great choices. Are you going to be watercooling at all?


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> Is that condensation on the reservoir or is it just bubbles inside?


Just bubbles sorting themselves out mate. Does look like condensation but if it is its all on the inside...


----------



## RBPC

My Core 1000 build.

I5-2500K
GeminII M4 cooler
EVGA GTX 660
Asrock H77M
8GB GSKILL DDR3 1600
OCZ Agility 3 64GB
WD Black 1.5TB
Thermaltake 850W Black Widow
Fractal Core 1000


----------



## bortoloj

Wow very nice, i like it


----------



## [email protected]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RBPC*






_Di-Noc! Di-Noc! Di-Noc! Di-Noc! Di-Noc!_

Looks excellent!


----------



## ROM3000

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RBPC*
> 
> My Core 1000 build.
> 
> I5-2500K
> GeminII M4 cooler
> EVGA GTX 660
> Asrock H77M
> 8GB GSKILL DDR3 1600
> OCZ Agility 3 64GB
> WD Black 1.5TB
> Thermaltake 850W Black Widow
> Fractal Core 1000






Wow great rig you have there. Nice job.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Well I like to think of it as the R4 being more silent than the R2, but both are great choices. Are you going to be watercooling at all?


Not at the begining but when i move all the hard drives to the nas i want do it.

Right now i have a FT02R-W and its so big for my purposes.

My actual rig

I5-3570K
Noctua D14
Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti OC -- maybe upcoming a GTX670 or wait until new generation
Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3
16GB Kingston DDR3 1600 (Green and Black) (http://box.jisko.net/i/fa083fa7.jpg and http://box.jisko.net/i/8fc6ef8e.jpg)
Samsung 830 256Gb
5x 3Tb
Antec TP-750 Blue
Silverstone FT02R-W

and ... im a newbie but i cant collaborate too.

What about this two fan controllers? I dont know how control the fans pluged directly to the motherboard by software (not bios) and probably this fan controllers fits fine with the fractal r4 door and they look good with the arc midi mesh style

NZXT Sentry Mix
http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mix

NZXT Sentry Mesh
http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mesh


----------



## stratosrally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> Not at the begining but when i move all the hard drives to the nas i want do it.
> 
> Right now i have a FT02R-W and its so big for my purposes.
> 
> My actual rig
> 
> I5-3570K
> Noctua D14
> Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti OC -- maybe upcoming a GTX670 or wait until new generation
> Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3
> 16GB Kingston DDR3 1600 (Green and Black) (http://box.jisko.net/i/fa083fa7.jpg and http://box.jisko.net/i/8fc6ef8e.jpg)
> Samsung 830 256Gb
> 5x 3Tb
> Antec TP-750 Blue
> Silverstone FT02R-W
> 
> and ... im a newbie but i cant collaborate too.
> 
> What about this two fan controllers? I dont know how control the fans pluged directly to the motherboard by software (not bios) and probably this fan controllers fits fine with the fractal r4 door and they look good with the arc midi mesh style
> 
> NZXT Sentry Mix
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mix
> 
> NZXT Sentry Mesh
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mesh


I personally want this fan controller for my future build inside a Define XL R2:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1308249/reeven-6-eyes-rfc-01-fan-controller

The buttons can be pushed in after adjusting them for a flush face:


----------



## ElevenEleven

I owned an FT02-W (in silver) last year, and it's not what I'd call a silent case -- mostly because of the Air Penetrator fans themselves. It was a great case though--just large. I'd give Phobya 180mm (32mm thick) fans a try, but if size is your main issue, R4 is a wonderful case--my favorite so far.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stratosrally*
> 
> I personally want this fan controller for my future build inside a Define XL R2:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1308249/reeven-6-eyes-rfc-01-fan-controller
> 
> The buttons can be pushed in after adjusting them for a flush face:


looks fine but ... where i live (spain) i didnt find it in any store, even amazon.co.uk. i must search deeper
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I owned an FT02-W (in silver) last year, and it's not what I'd call a silent case -- mostly because of the Air Penetrator fans themselves. It was a great case though--just large. I'd give Phobya 180mm (32mm thick) fans a try, but if size is your main issue, R4 is a wonderful case--my favorite so far.


right now, with the ap181 and the noctua d14 at minimun level the temperature its about 30-35º and well, maybe isnt so quiet but its fine for this temperature i think. As you say, the problem is the size, i will buy a Synology DS2413+ and i will not need a big case.

this is the rig, sorry for the pic, its old


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> Not at the begining but when i move all the hard drives to the nas i want do it.
> 
> Right now i have a FT02R-W and its so big for my purposes.
> 
> My actual rig
> 
> I5-3570K
> Noctua D14
> Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti OC -- maybe upcoming a GTX670 or wait until new generation
> Gigabyte G1 Sniper 3
> 16GB Kingston DDR3 1600 (Green and Black) (http://box.jisko.net/i/fa083fa7.jpg and http://box.jisko.net/i/8fc6ef8e.jpg)
> Samsung 830 256Gb
> 5x 3Tb
> Antec TP-750 Blue
> Silverstone FT02R-W
> 
> and ... im a newbie but i cant collaborate too.
> 
> What about this two fan controllers? I dont know how control the fans pluged directly to the motherboard by software (not bios) and probably this fan controllers fits fine with the fractal r4 door and they look good with the arc midi mesh style
> 
> NZXT Sentry Mix
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mix
> 
> NZXT Sentry Mesh
> http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_mesh


I have the Sentry Mesh with my R4, and it works great! Look fits in well too.


----------



## Eseuldor

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colforbin*
> 
> I have the Sentry Mesh with my R4, and it works great! Look fits in well too.






I have the Sentry mesh as well and so far it's worked well for me.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RBPC*
> 
> My Core 1000 build.
> 
> I5-2500K
> GeminII M4 cooler
> EVGA GTX 660
> Asrock H77M
> 8GB GSKILL DDR3 1600
> OCZ Agility 3 64GB
> WD Black 1.5TB
> Thermaltake 850W Black Widow
> Fractal Core 1000





Did you colour the Fractal part of the Fractal Design logo on the front of the case?


----------



## RBPC

Yes. It took a while I just wanted a outline and not the inner painted so I had to mask it all off.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Just bubbles sorting themselves out mate. Does look like condensation but if it is its all on the inside...


Forgot to mention. The build looks amazing


----------



## Adrenaline

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RBPC*
> 
> My Core 1000 build.
> 
> I5-2500K
> GeminII M4 cooler
> EVGA GTX 660
> Asrock H77M
> 8GB GSKILL DDR3 1600
> OCZ Agility 3 64GB
> WD Black 1.5TB
> Thermaltake 850W Black Widow
> Fractal Core 1000





Damn nice, Puts my core 1K to shame haha


----------



## Exothermic1982

Love this case so much.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exothermic1982*
> 
> Love this case so much.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Red _AND_ white rings on fans?

*Mind blown.*


----------



## OmarCCX

Haha. Looks awesome with a GPU, hopefully I can get one soon.


----------



## blue-cat

exothermic, that looks fantastic! Wasn't sure at first but the fans at the front look awesome diferent colours.


----------



## falcon26

How do you mount the SSD behind the motherboard? Where is the hole for the Sata cable? I can't seem to see how that would work. I love the idea though. That is how I plan to install my SSD...


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> How do you mount the SSD behind the motherboard? Where is the hole for the Sata cable? I can't seem to see how that would work. I love the idea though. That is how I plan to install my SSD...


For the Define R4? Quite simple. There are holes on the back. Before you do anything the first thing you do is install the SSD since the motherboard covers the screws. So screw in your SSD then mount you motherboard. Then route you power and sata cables to the drive and manage the cables.


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> For the Define R4? Quite simple. There are holes on the back. Before you do anything the first thing you do is install the SSD since the motherboard covers the screws. So screw in your SSD then mount you motherboard. Then route you power and sata cables to the drive and manage the cables.


Even though I love the idea of mounting the ssd's to the back of the mobo tray, I do not love the idea of screwing them in. If one fails or you wish to replace it you have remove the motherboard and everything attached to it.

Some people have recommended using an ssd adapter tray and screwing that in instead of the tray itself. I prefer using velcro or other similar such material to accomplish the same thing. One or the other of those two options would be what I recommend for ssd mounting in this case.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Could a second 120mm fan be mounted on the front of Core 1000? I don't see it anywhere in the specifications, but from promo photos of the case it looks like it should be possible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Even though I love the idea of mounting the ssd's to the back of the mobo tray, I do not love the idea of screwing them in. If one fails or you wish to replace it you have remove the motherboard and everything attached to it.
> 
> Some people have recommended using an ssd adapter tray and screwing that in instead of the tray itself. I prefer using velcro or other similar such material to accomplish the same thing. One or the other of those two options would be what I recommend for ssd mounting in this case.


You can also just use Velcro strips for SSDs and 2.5" drives.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Even though I love the idea of mounting the ssd's to the back of the mobo tray, I do not love the idea of screwing them in. If one fails or you wish to replace it you have remove the motherboard and everything attached to it.
> 
> Some people have recommended using an ssd adapter tray and screwing that in instead of the tray itself. I prefer using velcro or other similar such material to accomplish the same thing. One or the other of those two options would be what I recommend for ssd mounting in this case.


I agree with this, get a SSD bracket and screw the SSD to that then the whole thing to the back of the motherboard, this will allow you to take the back panel off and unscrew the SSDs should you need to. Other wise you will have to take the whole motherboard and schitt out first.


----------



## Paz911

Have a question for you guys about the panel for the R4 is there much sound difference between the panel with the glass/plastic and the one without, was thinking of getting led's and the panel for my R4 but did not want to get them if it meant that my rig would be louder because of it.
FYI this is what it looks like


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paz911*
> 
> Have a question for you guys about the panel for the R4 is there much sound difference between the panel with the glass/plastic and the one without, was thinking of getting led's and the panel for my R4 but did not want to get them if it meant that my rig would be louder because of it.
> FYI this is what it looks like


I got one without the window bc they were oos and ordered the windowed side panel online, I couldn't tell a difference. They both have the sound foam stuff on them, it looks so much better though.

tappin from the Note II


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

I have one with a window, I am suprised how quiet the case is. Compared to my Antec P180, I was worried that the case would not be as quiet but the Define R4 with a window, 2 x AF140 intakes, 2 x 140mm exhaust (used the fans that came with case) Plus 2 x SP120 High performance (with voltage step down adapter on each fan) on my heatsink and a GTX 560ti. if it wasn't for the bright blue power light I would forget its on


----------



## OmarCCX

I hate blue LEDs. I'm just glad the white R4 has red LEDs, not as intrusive to my sleep.


----------



## blue-cat

ive got the window and i can hear my whiny hd4850 fan spin up to high speeds pretty much and even higher when its stressed. Cant wait to get rid of it for a quieter more powerful card.

You can just mount SSDs in the normal drivebays


----------



## ElevenEleven

Fractal Design Define R4 question about the front panel "buzzing". Recently, something in the front panel started to vibrate, which I can fix by holding the panel with my hand or shifting it slightly. But eventually the buzzing returns. There's some sort of a resonance happening. I have an H100i with 4 120mm fans mounted onto the front in push/pull configuration. I can't isolate the source of the vibration, but if anyone else has encountered this, have you found it to be the dust filter vibrating as fans spin, perhaps? I'm doubting it a little, because the vibration mainly stops when I press onto the *sides* of the front panel, where the side grille cut outs are.


----------



## Exothermic1982

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4 question about the front panel "buzzing". Recently, something in the front panel started to vibrate, which I can fix by holding the panel with my hand or shifting it slightly. But eventually the buzzing returns. There's some sort of a resonance happening. I have an H100i with 4 120mm fans mounted onto the front in push/pull configuration. I can't isolate the source of the vibration, but if anyone else has encountered this, have you found it to be the dust filter vibrating as fans spin, perhaps? I'm doubting it a little, because the vibration mainly stops when I press onto the *sides* of the front panel, where the side grille cut outs are.


I used to have this problem too, the whine I guess you could call it was driving me bat **** crazy. Originally I had my h100 mounted in the front as well, I've since moved it into the top in a push only config and placed 2 140mm fans in the front (without using screws just snap them in) and the noise went away. If I screw anything into the black bracket the sound returns.


----------



## ElevenEleven

It's not the whine at all, which I would attribute to fans with airflow impedance. It's a buzz from fast fine vibration; it sounds like electrical buzz. Could be fans making the mesh vibrate, for example, or some other mobile part. I can solve it but moving out the front panel slightly and jamming a thin piece of dampening material between the case and, say, top right corner of the front panel. It's some sort of a vibrational resonance, I just can't figure out from what


----------



## blue-cat

do you have any mechanical drives? My HAF 932 was terrible for HDD buzz. all that mesh with my 6/7 mechanicals didn't mix well.


----------



## ElevenEleven

I have one, it's 2.5", practically doesn't vibrate, and is fixed with velcro to the motherboard panel. There's nothing at the front beyond a fan controller and the H100i with fans. I'm thinking it's the mesh







I'll just find a small rubber grommet or two and keep it between the panel and the case. Hopefully that should do it.


----------



## Apolladan

Is the Arc Midi R2 significantly louder than the Define R4 @ stock?


----------



## halfeatenwaffles

For those of us who are a fan of Malik's work, I found out that he has a website! Many more pics of not only the Fractal build, but also previous builds. Thought this thread would be a good place to post. Very impressive work









Malik Customs


----------



## OmarCCX

I also have a 2.5" 7200 HDD. I put some of the included rubber grumnets on it just to be safe.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm afraid I'm leaving this club to join the Stormtrooper club.
You guys have been very helpful to me and I wish you all the best!


----------



## I Am The Stig

I've got the Fractal Design R4 case and I'm still working out the cooling. I'm looking for ways for better airflow to keep the GPU cool (Sapphire 7950 Vapor-X with two fans) which goes up to 70c with the fans just ramped up to 60% on an autoprofile. Right now I have two Noctua fans in the front as an intake and the stock fan in the back and top (closer to the back). The second fan slot on the top still has the sound dampener thing on it. My question is should I maybe look at putting a second top exhaust fan or remove the top exhaust fan and repalce it with the sound dampener thing again. Trying to find out ways not to mess up the airflow in my case.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm afraid I'm leaving this club to join the Stormtrooper club.
> You guys have been very helpful to me and I wish you all the best!












Sad to see one of our own leave..


----------



## catbuster

Does any1 use fan controller with switches in r4? something from lamptron lets say? or u cant close the door after instaling it?







those touchscreen fan controllers sucks i think


----------



## dumafourlife

I just ordered me a define r4 =) can't wait to start my first intel build!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Does any1 use fan controller with switches in r4? something from lamptron lets say? or u cant close the door after instaling it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those touchscreen fan controllers sucks i think


I have the lamptron touch and it works perfectly fine for me. I have no experience with switch operated or dial operated fan controllers.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Upcoming Project Violet for my mother's computer case (her office is a nice shade of rosy lavender with white accents):

++


----------



## dumafourlife

^







can't wait to see the finished product!


----------



## Kimir

Love the violet !


----------



## ElevenEleven

Heh. Well I wish it were a bit more rosy, but my selection is limited, because I want to use Rust-Oleum spray cans (I greatly prefer them to others I've tried to date). It's going to be a bit off from the room color, but good enough. Undecided if I'll just do full-on violet with black mesh or keep the case mostly black and add small amount of violet details, because two fans I will put at the front will already give a lot of violet glow. We'll see when it gets here, and I'll play with GIMP to make some test images.


----------



## dramabeats

Just got the arc midi r2 and I don't really like the tint, anyone know if the side panel you can order that fits the r1 is tinted?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Ok, played with GIMP using official Fractal Design images from the Mini page, and full-on lavender just looks bad on this case. How do you feel about some combination of the following:
(ignore the fans being so prominent--they'll be behind the grille, of course--this is only a "sketch")





Unsure if I'd paint the front grille yet, but I'll probably paint the top one.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Ok, played with GIMP using official Fractal Design images from the Mini page, and full-on lavender just looks bad on this case. How do you feel about some combination of the following:
> (ignore the fans being so prominent--they'll be behind the grille, of course--this is only a "sketch")
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure if I'd paint the front grille yet, but I'll probably paint the top one.


Personally I would just paint the grilles.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Do you guys think that a reference design graphics card would be better in the Define R4 as opposed to an open air cooler? The airflow is a bit low compared to a more traditional case.


----------



## Apolladan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apolladan*
> 
> Is the Arc Midi R2 significantly louder than the Define R4 @ stock?


Anyone?


----------



## ElevenEleven

What do you mean by "at stock" exactly? The stock case fans / configuration? Total system not being overclocked?


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> Do you guys think that a reference design graphics card would be better in the Define R4 as opposed to an open air cooler? The airflow is a bit low compared to a more traditional case.


I assume you mean enclosed versus open. From past experience, unless it was a cramped build with little space between components, heat build up was never an issue. The R4 is very roomy compared to a lot of cases in it's class. It's also a fatty that likes pie. So toss your treats at it. Even being a silent class case there is plenty of airflow to spare.

Basically, as far as enclosed vs open is concerned, I vote to just get the card that gives you the most at the price point you can afford.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, played with GIMP using official Fractal Design images from the Mini page, and full-on lavender just looks bad on this case. How do you feel about some combination of the following:
> (ignore the fans being so prominent--they'll be behind the grille, of course--this is only a "sketch")
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure if I'd paint the front grille yet, but I'll probably paint the top one.


I like to idea so far. Maybe also paint the Fractal logo in the same shade of violet? And the other side panel looks a tad bit loney


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> I assume you mean enclosed versus open. From past experience, unless it was a cramped build with little space between components, heat build up was never an issue. The R4 is very roomy compared to a lot of cases in it's class. It's also a fatty that likes pie. So toss your treats at it. Even being a silent class case there is plenty of airflow to spare.


I was thinkng about going SLI, would two GPUs with a blower cooler like an EVGA be better / cooler than two Asus DC2?

I only have 3 case fans and two of them are already pushing heat from the H100i inside the case.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I was thinkng about going SLI, would two GPUs with a blower cooler like an EVGA be better / cooler than two Asus DC2?
> 
> I only have 3 case fans and two of them are already pushing heat from the H100i inside the case.


If I were you, I would probpably go with a blower cooler, because it wouldn´t bump so much heat into your case, aspecially, considering that your H100i is taking air in and warms up the air in the case, anyway.

Also you have more possebilitys going under water, if you use reference 670s (if it matters to you).

With the DCIIs you´ll be happy too, but I would recommend you reference.
Just my two







.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> If I were you, I would probpably go with a blower cooler, because it wouldn´t bump so much heat into your case, aspecially, considering that your H100i is taking air in and warms up the air in the case, anyway.
> 
> Also you have more possebilitys going under water, if you use reference 670s (if it matters to you).
> 
> With the DCIIs you´ll be happy too, but I would recommend you reference.
> Just my two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I was actually thinking SLI GTX 660, there's not much OC headroom on those.

I'm kinda on a budget right now and will get 1 GPU in a few weeks and the other 4-5 months from now. It really sucks to have 20 games on steam and not be able to play them.









Thanks for the help.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Ok, played with GIMP using official Fractal Design images from the Mini page, and full-on lavender just looks bad on this case. How do you feel about some combination of the following:
> (ignore the fans being so prominent--they'll be behind the grille, of course--this is only a "sketch")
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unsure if I'd paint the front grille yet, but I'll probably paint the top one.


I think that would look sexy if you did the case in white. The purple would pop a lot more.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I Am The Stig*
> 
> I've got the Fractal Design R4 case and I'm still working out the cooling. I'm looking for ways for better airflow to keep the GPU cool (Sapphire 7950 Vapor-X with two fans) which goes up to 70c with the fans just ramped up to 60% on an autoprofile. Right now I have two Noctua fans in the front as an intake and the stock fan in the back and top (closer to the back). The second fan slot on the top still has the sound dampener thing on it. My question is should I maybe look at putting a second top exhaust fan or remove the top exhaust fan and repalce it with the sound dampener thing again. Trying to find out ways not to mess up the airflow in my case.


I just transferred my system to a Define R4. I put 2 x Corsair AP140's in the front intake and moved the front Fractal 140 to the top rear spot. I removed the top HD cage for better airflow to my GPU GTX 560ti.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I was actually thinking SLI GTX 660, there's not much OC headroom on those.
> 
> I'm kinda on a budget right now and will get 1 GPU in a few weeks and the other 4-5 months from now. It really sucks to have 20 games on steam and not be able to play them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Don´t know why I had 670s in mind.









If you want to SLI, you maybe want to raise the Resolution, so I would goo with 3GB ones.

Maybe you want to check the EVGA ones out (I think they have the most wide range of Cards and their costumer Service is great).





 is a reference design 3GB (with a Little clockboost and a backplate).

Just by the way, if you want to get some more OC headroom (with temps you may want to check out The Mod Thread).

Hope you´ll be able to game soon.


----------



## blue-cat

Anyone else find that the front panel plastic detaches from the metal frame too easily? And can't believe its heavier than my HAF 932 water cooled build!

Finally got round to uploading my photos. Loving the case, even with all my HDDs and 2 inputs and 1 exhaust its nice and quiet. The fan controller is great too! Only bad thing is my GPU fan can be a little loud but I rarely game these days so its not an issue.

Any suggestions on where to stash my cables other than under the drivebays? I've already cut off the GPU cables for my last build but I'm not sure I want to cut the molex off jsut in case I need them.





Spoiler: More photos here!


----------



## NoGuru

Looks good, and great cable management.


----------



## dramabeats

cell phone quality but here's my Midi r2 that I got on release


----------



## AndenAnden

Now I got the 400mm radiator going around in my system







where my old air cooler was at 80 in load, it is in 35 now







( 45 C degree less, I have no idea what that is in F but it is alot )I managed to clock 5.4, but my powersupply cant handle it. have to clock down on graphics to stock settings to be able to play. Im gonna get a new powersupply next month, and a 240 280mm radiator. not decided on size yet.. although im not done for awhile, lots more to do. hehe I love the res in the top, crazy simple to fill more water or release preassure. Lots more to do, but I can give some pics meanwhile

My entire log, in swedish though. but a pictures tell a better story

http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11049-define-r4-med-400mmfront280mmtop-radiator

The cpu block is a EK Supreme HF Full Copper CPU Water Block


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*


What fans are those?

If you want some pretty good LED fans I'd buy some Zalman ZM-F3-FDB's, drill holes and insert purple LEDs inside.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Anyone else find that the front panel plastic detaches from the metal frame too easily? And can't believe its heavier than my HAF 932 water cooled build!
> 
> Finally got round to uploading my photos. Loving the case, even with all my HDDs and 2 inputs and 1 exhaust its nice and quiet. The fan controller is great too! Only bad thing is my GPU fan can be a little loud but I rarely game these days so its not an issue.
> 
> Any suggestions on where to stash my cables other than under the drivebays? I've already cut off the GPU cables for my last build but I'm not sure I want to cut the molex off jsut in case I need them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More photos here!


Wow ok yeah I need to redo my wiring. After seeing your excellent job and cabling I just felt bad about mine and will be redoing everything








Excellent cabling


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> What fans are those?
> 
> If you want some pretty good LED fans I'd buy some Zalman ZM-F3-FDB's, drill holes and insert purple LEDs inside.


They are Xigmatek crystal series 120mm with purple LEDs. Not the best fans in terms of the bearing noise, but actually very quiet downvolted with fairly good case airflow. I've owned both 140mm and 120mm versions in different colors. These purple LED 120mm ones were $5.50 per fan in dual packs from NewEgg. I'll probably run them at static 7V. It's not going to be a high-performance case, since my mom has a cool'n'lite i3 in there, and is more for the purpose of quiet eye candy (she likes colors and dislikes black because it's too mournful after my dad died... so I'll probably end up painting the whole Mini case anyway).


----------



## AbdullahG

Anyone have an HD 7950 non-reference design (any brand, but I'm most interested in Saphhire) in a Core 1000? I'm planning on getting a new GPU, but I'm concerned the non-reference design will not find adequate airflow in my case. How are temps and noise for you?


----------



## Malik

Something new in arc case...


----------



## blue-cat

SO. MANY. SP120!!!!!!!


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> SO. MANY. SP120!!!!!!!


only two


----------



## stickg1

After a year of being an admirer I finally joined the club. Not as extravagant as some of the ones in here but this is what I'm working with now...

Arc Midi


----------



## ElevenEleven

Since my Arc Mini won't get to me until sometime next week, could an owner of this case please tell me the exact dimensions of the side panels? Trying to plan out a side window shape and size.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Since my Arc Mini won't get to me until sometime next week, could an owner of this case please tell me the exact dimensions of the side panels? Trying to plan out a side window shape and size.


I just so happen to have my tape measure right here by my side...

18-15/16" Wide x 17-5/16" Tall


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I just so happen to have my tape measure right here by my side...
> 
> 18-15/16" Wide x 17-5/16" Tall


That's for MIDI







I'm looking for MINI! Thank you though!!


----------



## Hogwasher

reported


----------



## vangsfreaken

this is sorta irrelevant to the thread, but does anyone have any experience with the sleeved, grey cables for the corsair ax860? i'm considering them for my core 1000  but i'm not quite sure how grey sleeving would work out... it will most likely be moved to a define mini as soon as i can afford more hdd's, so it have to work out there too


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> only two


Red ring fans then


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Something new in arc case...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That looks absolutely brilliant!


----------



## Botanica

Where can I get that gpu cooler D:


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> That's for MIDI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for MINI! Thank you though!!


DOH! Sorry I missed that!


----------



## ROM3000

Hey everyone. Does anyone know if there are any places that sell the Arc Midi windowed side panel in the USA? Thanks.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Botanica*
> 
> Where can I get that gpu cooler D:


That's a ProlimaTech MK-26. I have been considering it, but it's REALLY heavy, and all photos of it set up show how GPU PCB bends down under the weight.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROM3000*
> 
> Hey everyone. Does anyone know if there are any places that sell the Arc Midi windowed side panel in the USA? Thanks.


Yes I bought one last week.

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=72083&vpn=FD-AC-WND-DEFR4-ARC-BL&manufacture=Fractal%20Design

http://www.costcaptain.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DX_FDACWNDDEF4ARCB&Store_Code=C&search=arc+midi&offset=0&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=


----------



## ROM3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yes I bought one last week.
> 
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=72083&vpn=FD-AC-WND-DEFR4-ARC-BL&manufacture=Fractal%20Design
> 
> http://www.costcaptain.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DX_FDACWNDDEF4ARCB&Store_Code=C&search=arc+midi&offset=0&filter_cat=&PowerSearch_Begin_Only=&sort=&range_low=&range_high=


Thanks a lot stickg1. The price isn't that bad either. I'll post some pictures if I end up ordering it.


----------



## StevenT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> only two


nope, bunch of sp120 in your case , btw defenatly good fan too.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StevenT*
> 
> nope, bunch of sp120 in your case , btw defenatly good fan too.


He has SP120s and AF140s.


----------



## KevGann

I know this is a bit off topic, but I wanted an opinion on if I should get the arc mini with matx mobo or arc midi with atx mobo. I originally wanted the arc mini for its matx, compact form factor. This build is going to be my new main rig for graphic design and mid gaming. Do you guys think I should get the arc mini for my build, i'm planning on using one 660 ti for gpu. Thanks

-Just thought this would be a good place to ask, because many own the arc cases in this thread.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> I know this is a bit off topic, but I wanted an opinion on if I should get the arc mini with matx mobo or arc midi with atx mobo. I originally wanted the arc mini for its matx, compact form factor. This build is going to be my new main rig for graphic design and mid gaming. Do you guys think I should get the arc mini for my build, i'm planning on using one 660 ti for gpu. Thanks
> 
> -Just thought this would be a good place to ask, because many own the arc cases in this thread.


If you want compact ant aren't going to crossfire/sli or water cool I say mini. But if you're going to be water cooling etc.. I say the midi r2


----------



## Malik

Exactly









Front: 2x Corsair AF 140mm Quiet
Top: 2x Corsair AF 140mm Quiet
Rear: 1x Corsair AF 140mm Quiet
CPU: 2x Corsair SP 120mm Quiet
GPU: 2x Corsair AF 120mm Quiet


----------



## SirWooties

So the new Midi R2 only difference between the old one is the front panel and top panel? So basically you would be able to pop the old front and top panels off and insert the new panels for the "new" R2? Now if Fractal designs a Mini R2 and sold those panels separately there would be no point in buying the entire case brand new.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoZy*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Before anyone asks, I'm not planning on posting a build log else ware. Just wanted to show you what was involved with fitting 2x 280mm radiators in my R4, To me all the images were juicy enough to post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> //
> 
> Hey guys, Purchased the R4 and fell in love, Then decided to tweak the system a little
> 
> Started off like:
> 
> i7 3770k @ 4.4ghz 1.192v
> 16gb Gskill TridentX @ 2400mhz
> Asrock Fatal1ty Z77 Professional
> HD6970 Crossfire (From Old Rig)
> Samsung Pro 128gb Windows 8/Apps
> OCZ Vertex 4 256gb Games Drive
> WD Caviar Black 1tb Temp Drive
> WD 200gb Work Drive
> CoolerMaster 850w Silent Pro Power Supply
> Some bitfenix Extensions
> 
> 
> 
> Now...
> 
> I've decided to water cool her,
> Parts as followed:
> XSPC Raystorm Copper Waterblock
> EK DCP 4.0 Pump & Res Combo
> FRONT- Hardware Labs SR1 280
> TOP- XSPC EX280
> Koolance Dual 140mm Shroud
> Cougar 140mm HDB Fans
> Bitspower Compression Fittings
> Primochill Primoflex advance LRT bloodshed red tubing
> 
> Planned Loop design:


There are some awesome ideas in here. The method of including both SSDs & 3.5" HDDs is definitely clever.

What did you line the metal edges with? It looks like a small rubber tube.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Something new in arc case...


Waitaminit. When did you switch to the tower cooler? Did you get better temps that way like [email protected] did? Full circle back to air cooling CPU & GPU?


----------



## stickg1

Malik what CPU cooler is that?


----------



## Malik

This is Prolimatech Megahalems Black Edition. About fans... i changed SP for AF on GPU, because with AF i have better temps. And on CPU i have better temps with SP







Strange but true


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> So the new Midi R2 only difference between the old one is the front panel and top panel? So basically you would be able to pop the old front and top panels off and insert the new panels for the "new" R2? Now if Fractal designs a Mini R2 and sold those panels separately there would be no point in buying the entire case brand new.


I don't think you can just stick the new one on.. The original Midi had fan clips on the front and since the R2 has holes to mount the fans on the actual case itself. Correct me if I'm wrong..


----------



## jsarver

hey guys, first post here on the forum and my first pc build. im a heavy mac user but wanted a gaming rig that could run everything. picked the windowed r4 because i think it is a super clean case. hope your guys enjoy!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Corsair overload!







(looks nice)


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> hey guys, first post here on the forum and my first pc build. im a heavy mac user but wanted a gaming rig that could run everything. picked the windowed r4 because i think it is a super clean case. hope your guys enjoy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pictures


could use some cable management, but it's freaking sweet anyways


----------



## jsarver

thanks guys. appreciate the feedback. the cable management on the final product is much better then what is shown. may have to take an updated pic of everything finished with better lighting. i would like to get some individually sleeved cables down the road and really clean it all up.

yes its def. corsair overload lol. im a big fan of their products and i like dealing with as few companies as possible. take that outlook on most things i purchase as long as they are reviewed well, put out a good product and back it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Something new in arc case...


_Malik stole my system and turned it red!!_


----------



## Malik

hehe funny


----------



## K4IKEN

I'm jealous of yalls builds.


----------



## EssArTee4

I just ditched my horrible Antec Nine hundred case for a new Fractal Design Define R4 with Window Titanium Grey from NewEgg Today. Cant wait for it to come!


----------



## dumafourlife

^you'll love it! I just got mine in and its way more than I expected it to be


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> _Malik stole my system and turned it red!!_


I'm about to steal the whole thing and not even do you the courtesy of changing the colors! Although I might do a darker green paint.


----------



## BBEG

Malik, [email protected], how are those fans by the way? Specifically, how is their cooling-to-noise ratio, if either of you are sensitive to that sort of thing?


----------



## karupt

Is the Define R4 windowed version much louder than the regular version? And would the Define Mini be better/quieter for mATX builds?


----------



## Night Hawk

Hi, I'm about to buy a define R4 with a Asus p9x79 Deluxe motherboard and a h100i cooler. But will it fit into the case with those components without having the cooler fans outside the case? Some people say it will some say it wont, Im not quite sure what to believe. I have seen that combo but instead of an Asus it was an MSI Z77A-S01 motherboard. And it barely fit, it was maybe 2 mm between the h100i cooler fans and the motherboard.

Will it fit with the R4 or do I have to take the Arc Midi R2 version? I really like the r4 and would like to have it, but I need to be sure that those components will fit without any problem.

Thanks


----------



## gilljoy

I'd like the know the same,

I'm thinking about picking up a R4 or a Define XL R2, I've got a h100i I'd like to know will this fit in these cases?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Night Hawk*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to buy a define R4 with a Asus p9x79 Deluxe motherboard and a h100i cooler. But will it fit into the case with those components without having the cooler fans outside the case? Some people say it will some say it wont, Im not quite sure what to believe. I have seen that combo but instead of an Asus it was an MSI Z77A-S01 motherboard. And it barely fit, it was maybe 2 mm between the h100i cooler fans and the motherboard.
> 
> Will it fit with the R4 or do I have to take the Arc Midi R2 version? I really like the r4 and would like to have it, but I need to be sure that those components will fit without any problem.
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> I'd like the know the same,
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up a R4 or a Define XL R2, I've got a h100i I'd like to know will this fit in these cases?


It'll fit; you might have to offset the radiator and use the honeycomb mesh holes to mount the radiator instead of the existing 120.2 mounting holes, but it will fit.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> I'd like the know the same,
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up a R4 or a Define XL R2, I've got a h100i I'd like to know will this fit in these cases?


The H100i fit in the R4 just fine so it probably fit the XL R2 as well.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Night Hawk*
> 
> Hi, I'm about to buy a define R4 with a Asus p9x79 Deluxe motherboard and a h100i cooler. But will it fit into the case with those components without having the cooler fans outside the case? Some people say it will some say it wont, Im not quite sure what to believe. I have seen that combo but instead of an Asus it was an MSI Z77A-S01 motherboard. And it barely fit, it was maybe 2 mm between the h100i cooler fans and the motherboard.
> 
> Will it fit with the R4 or do I have to take the Arc Midi R2 version? I really like the r4 and would like to have it, but I need to be sure that those components will fit without any problem.
> 
> Thanks


There are posts earlier in this thread that people have successfully installed an H100 into the Define R4. you can either have it as a front intake or install it as a top exhaust. Installing it in the top will require you to first make sure you have enough room / clearance between your mosfet heatsink and ram slots. you have to off center the readiator at the top to the left (while looking down from front of case)


----------



## Night Hawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> There are posts earlier in this thread that people have successfully installed an H100 into the Define R4. you can either have it as a front intake or install it as a top exhaust. Installing it in the top will require you to first make sure you have enough room / clearance between your mosfet heatsink and ram slots. you have to off center the readiator at the top to the left (while looking down from front of case)


I know it fits in a define r4 case, but didn't know for sure if it would fit with an Asus p9x79 deluxe motherboard because I can't find the measurements of the heatsink. Someone said that if it is larger than 30mm then it wouldn't fit.


----------



## Eseuldor

E-ATX is generally about 1" wider right? There should be plenty of clearance to accommodate the board + h100/h100i in an R4. I am sure there are pics of people doing it earlier in the thread but I am too lazy to look for them. The clearance at top should not be any different either.


----------



## karesma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*
> 
> hey guys, first post here on the forum and my first pc build. im a heavy mac user but wanted a gaming rig that could run everything. picked the windowed r4 because i think it is a super clean case. hope your guys enjoy!


I'm thinking about mounting a fan on the side of my two video cards like you have. Can't really tell from the picture how you accomplished that, would be awesome if you could show us how that was done!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Malik, [email protected], how are those fans by the way? Specifically, how is their cooling-to-noise ratio, if either of you are sensitive to that sort of thing?


Cooling is great! The AF140's are quiet at 12v and silent at 7v.....the SP/AF120's are a different story at 12v.....I'm running everything at 7v, temps are awesome!


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> E-ATX is generally about 1" wider right? There should be plenty of clearance to accommodate the board + h100/h100i in an R4. I am sure there are pics of people doing it earlier in the thread but I am too lazy to look for them. The clearance at top should not be any different either.


Indeed, I've got an R4, a Rampage IV Extreme in it and I had an H100i (before I switch to full custom loop).
Check my rig pics, those with H100i are still there.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> I'd like the know the same,
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up a R4 or a Define XL R2, I've got a h100i I'd like to know will this fit in these cases?


You can also front-mount it.

I did.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karesma*
> 
> I'm thinking about mounting a fan on the side of my two video cards like you have. Can't really tell from the picture how you accomplished that, would be awesome if you could show us how that was done!


I think it may be the same was this user mounted his:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1259425/asus-670-directcu-ii-top/2620#post_19482317

Not sure 100% sure though!


----------



## jsarver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karesma*
> 
> I'm thinking about mounting a fan on the side of my two video cards like you have. Can't really tell from the picture how you accomplished that, would be awesome if you could show us how that was done!


i used the following brackets:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16145/slf-11/Akust_Adjustable_Magnetic_Fan_Bridge_Mounting_Kit_BK00-0107-AKS.html?tl=g40c18s62

and also one of these:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17728/slf-13/Expansion_Slot_Side_Fan_Mounting_Kit_-_Black.html?tl=g40c18s62

the one with magnet feet sits on the floor of the case where the drive bays used to be in the r4. it holds an af120 quiet edition which blows air over the cards from right to left.

the expansion slot bracket just mounts using existing expansion slot screws. this is holding a sp120 perfomance edition which is cut down to about 60% power in the bios. i tried using two bracket so the fan could be secured at all corners but the spacing was just slightly off for everything to line up and look neat.

one expansion bracket is enough though. i have no rattling or movement what so ever. also no noticeable added noise that i can tell from the addition if these two fans (and I'm sensitive to that stuff when im not gaming).

this setup was done because i have a sound blaster z sandwiched in my sli which was raising temps to 85ish on my oc'ed 670 ftw+'s. my temps now almost never break 75 and mostly stay at 70 (just under throttling temps)

very pleased! here are a few pics too, hope that helps!


----------



## vangsfreaken

anyone know if fractal sponsors modders? because i just applied for sponsorship for my next casemod!


----------



## karesma

Thanks that side mounting kit was just what i was looking for!


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsarver*


So you have a fan with no intake path?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Got my new "project case" Arc Mini in the mail today. Such a cute case. Only issue I have with it is the filters--they stick out through the honeycomb grilles and just look cheap. Is there a good kind of mesh I could substitute them with that will look nice and still block dust?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> So you have a fan with no intake path?


Looks like they're just mounted there for extra circulation within the cases existing airflow. It works, but obviously not as good as pure intakes.


----------



## stickg1

HELP! Which color should I paint all the white trim in my case, I have a green theme.



All the white is going to be one of those two colors


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> HELP! Which color should I paint all the white trim in my case, I have a green theme.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the white is going to be one of those two colors
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'd say go with the one on the left, the darker one.


----------



## jsarver

There is plenty of free space between the intake side of the fan and the window of the case. Also, since no hot air is blown inside the case what so ever, every bit of additional air that moves over the cards is already cooler then the cards. The significant drop in loaded temps is proof enough for me that this is helping...a lot!


----------



## ampy60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> HELP! Which color should I paint all the white trim in my case, I have a green theme.
> 
> 
> 
> All the white is going to be one of those two colors


I'd try and find something more turquoise, you'll have to look at it for the next couple of years, may as well make it match, not just be close.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Starting work on my mini project with a Fractal Design Arc Mini!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1378838/case-mod-project-violet


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Starting work on my mini project with a Fractal Design Arc Mini!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1378838/case-mod-project-violet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


/Sub, dat picture, got in in wallpaper size?


----------



## ElevenEleven

The largest I can find is 1280 x 1024


----------



## qwkslvr

Have you guys seen any build logs for the XL R2 where they fit a 480mm rad on the front? I plan to put a rad in front and debating if that (might) work or i'll just get the 140x3 monsta rad instead (of course i have to do away with the 5.25 bays).


----------



## stickg1

Did a little painting today


----------



## gilljoy

Anyone know how the h100i fits in the define xl r2? Thinking of picking one up or an R4


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Anyone know how the h100i fits in the define xl r2? Thinking of picking one up or an R4


Fits easy, I have one in mine.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Did a little painting today


Nice paint work. Your machine looks great!!!


----------



## gilljoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> Fits easy, I have one in mine.


The r4 yes?

I may have to order one or a 650D then


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Nice paint work. Your machine looks great!!!


Thank you! I'm loving that 5770 btw, the kids have been getting in some good games of Sonic and Dirt Showdown!


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> The r4 yes?
> 
> I may have to order one or a 650D then


Yes, the XL. Pretty nice for the price compared to the 650 but the 650 is nice too.


----------



## gilljoy

Corsair is out of the running now, its just a choice between the standard r4 and the xl r2.

Would I be able to fit in a h100i into a standard r4 ok?


----------



## EssArTee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> _Malik stole my system and turned it red!!_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What CPU cooler is this?


----------



## EssArTee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm about to steal the whole thing and not even do you the courtesy of changing the colors! Although I might do a darker green paint.


What CPU cooler is this?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EssArTee4*
> 
> What CPU cooler is this?


Which one? In Sawyer and Malik's rigs? Looks like a Prolimatec Black Megahalems. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835242031


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Which one? In Sawyer and Malik's rigs? Looks like a Prolimatec Black Megahalems. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835242031


Indeed it is!







(although I swapped back to an H70 when I switched to IB)


----------



## EssArTee4

Looks great, and i have the same fans. How do the fans attach?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EssArTee4*
> 
> Looks great, and i have the same fans. How do the fans attach?


The cooler comes with 4 clips that attach 2 fans in a push/pull config.


----------



## zombieno7

How much difference is there practically between the R4 and the XL? I guess what I'm saying is; is the XL worth it?


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zombieno7*
> 
> How much difference is there practically between the R4 and the XL? I guess what I'm saying is; is the XL worth it?


Worth it if you have an E-ATX board and actually NEED the space. Otherwise, no.


----------



## EssArTee4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The cooler comes with 4 clips that attach 2 fans in a push/pull config.


Thanks! How does it perform in our case? Wonder why no reviews.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EssArTee4*
> 
> Thanks! How does it perform in our case? Wonder why no reviews.


I can't help but point out that there's a function "Search This Thread" which can be used for anything in this thread by keywords. I would also use Google to find reviews for this cooler, as there are lots. (Just that all of your questions could have been answered by simple searches so far).


----------



## gilljoy

Ahh its like hens teeth trying to get a hold of an R4 with a window in the UK at the minute. Seems everywhere is sold out


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Ahh its like hens teeth trying to get a hold of an R4 with a window in the UK at the minute. Seems everywhere is sold out


Specialtech have White and Black with windows in stock.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Ahh its like hens teeth trying to get a hold of an R4 with a window in the UK at the minute. Seems everywhere is sold out


I know in the States you can get a replacement windowed side panel for the R4/Arc Midi for about $17 shipped to your doorstep. Maybe the same for in the UK? You're a lot closer to the manufacturers HQ than us.


----------



## AndenAnden

This is how a Phobya xtreme 400mm / EK XTC 280mm radiator looks inside a Define R4







was hard work for sure

Clocked my fx 8350 to 5.4, it refuse to boot at higher speeds, suspect my motherboard cant handle it. I am aiming for a really stable 5 to 5.2 ghz. not done much clocking yet. just happy the thing works hehe

My entire buildlogg http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11049-define-r4-med-400mmfront280mmtop-radiator


----------



## gilljoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Specialtech have White and Black with windows in stock.


Excelent thank you very much I'll get it ordered


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Excelent thank you very much I'll get it ordered


No worries. They're a good company too.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Corsair is out of the running now, its just a choice between the standard r4 and the xl r2.
> 
> Would I be able to fit in a h100i into a standard r4 ok?


It should fit fine. See my rig pics when I had the H100i before I goes full custom waterloop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> Worth it if you have an E-ATX board and actually NEED the space. Otherwise, no.


E-ATX such as Asus Rampage IV Extreme does not NEED the space actually, just saying.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> This is how a Phobya xtreme 400mm / EK XTC 280mm radiator looks inside a Define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was hard work for sure


520 rad space for a single CPU?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> 520 rad space for a single CPU?


WHY?!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Not?



This is OCN, overkill is overrated.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> WHY?!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Not?
> 
> 
> 
> This is OCN, overkill is overrated.










Winner!


----------



## BBEG

It's not overkill though; it's _wasted_ rad space. If he pulls the 240 from the loop I highly doubt he'll see any difference in temps. Seeing 520 rad space dedicated to a CPU that won't get hot enough to utilize it and seeing the GPU on air makes me sadface.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> It's not overkill though; it's _wasted_ rad space. If he pulls the 240 from the loop I highly doubt he'll see any difference in temps. Seeing 520 rad space dedicated to a CPU that won't get hot enough to utilize it and seeing the GPU on air makes me sadface.


Completely valid rebuttal Sir.
Even if this was overkill, proof of concept, or just "...how many rads does it take to cool a..." I still like it!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Completely valid rebuttal Sir.
> Even if this was overkill, proof of concept, or just "...how many rads does it take to cool a..." I still like it!


Fuh real, a lot of effort goes in to stuffing something like that into the R4!


----------



## TwentyCent

It's all about point of view and priorities.

Car enthusiasts drool over Lambos and ****, even though their potential can't really be used under normal driving conditions on public roads.
Some people will say the extra hp and the associated fuel consumption is sheer waste of money, considering all you want is to get from point A to point B.

Food for thoughts.

I say







for well executed setup.


----------



## crsn00

Just a small update to my rig







I added red and black thumbscrews, carbon fiber to the psu and a red hdd activity led instead of the power led. I had planned on having all red thumbscrews but 3 out of the 7 I ordered weren't made correctly and didn't fit :/ so I went with red and black

I'm still having trouble getting decent pictures with the not so great camera I have but this is the best I could do


----------



## AndenAnden

Thanks all who liked to see my hard work








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> It's not overkill though; it's _wasted_ rad space. If he pulls the 240 from the loop I highly doubt he'll see any difference in temps. Seeing 520 rad space dedicated to a CPU that won't get hot enough to utilize it and seeing the GPU on air makes me sadface.


lol cry me a river.

lol wasted? I had nothing there to begin with. and believe me, its not even enough. the 400 made a 40 C degree diffrence. + the 280 15- 25 C diffrence. and yet I can pull temps 75-80 on really high voltage. easy. Besides it wasnt even expensive concidering the preformance/price gain/ vs h100i( for the price of two of h100i I can get way better preformance, more quiet, and can expaned it easy).. and about the gpu, it def need a block. thinking I might save for a better card.

the temp drops way faster too, so basicly its very quiet so the fans doesnt have to create alot of noise.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> It's not overkill though; it's _wasted_ rad space. If he pulls the 240 from the loop I highly doubt he'll see any difference in temps. Seeing 520 rad space dedicated to a CPU that won't get hot enough to utilize it and seeing the GPU on air makes me sadface.


Overkill on OCN, is that even possible here?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*


This looks killer!







I'm liking the logo-free fans.......


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> Thanks all who liked to see my hard work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol cry me a river.
> 
> lol wasted? I had nothing there to begin with. and believe me, its not even enough. the 400 made a 40 C degree diffrence. + the 280 15- 25 C diffrence. and yet I can pull temps 75-80 on really high voltage. easy. Besides it wasnt even expensive concidering the preformance/price gain/ vs h100i( for the price of two of h100i I can get way better preformance, more quiet, and can expaned it easy).. and about the gpu, it def need a block. thinking I might save for a better card.
> 
> the temp drops way faster too, so basicly its very quiet so the fans doesnt have to create alot of noise.


Easy there killer, nobody's crying about anything.

I'm confused about how much those rads are cooling your chip though. Reading on Xtreme suggests a lot of chip to chip variance in temps and responsiveness to voltage adjustment, but are you saying that WITH the two rads you still get 75-80C at over 5.0?

(Just noticed that that was a 400mm rad... Which makes it even more amazing that an FX can get that hot.)


----------



## ElevenEleven

Is the contact between the processor and the base of the heatsink good? Poor seating / uneven surfaces can cause pretty high temperatures. I had to re-seat my H100i 5-6 times to get dramatically lower temperatures.


----------



## AndenAnden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Easy there killer, nobody's crying about anything.
> 
> I'm confused about how much those rads are cooling your chip though. Reading on Xtreme suggests a lot of chip to chip variance in temps and responsiveness to voltage adjustment, but are you saying that WITH the two rads you still get 75-80C at over 5.0?
> 
> (Just noticed that that was a 400mm rad... Which makes it even more amazing that an FX can get that hot.)


ahh good









Yeah, chip variance is what I am thinking too. I keep reading folks who get 1.45V for 5ghz with the fx 8350. sure one can start the computer with it, but stable no way in my case. I need atleast 1.58V to get it stable. 5.2 about 1.65(for gaming and normal use 1.61), even higher if one needs it bulletproof stable. and yeah the temp are crazy high. I am starting to wonder if I got a bad batch. I followed the vishera overclocking guide on this site to get temp/volt down. but I still need such high voltage to keep it going. Would love to get my hands on a intel 3870x and do some clocking, seems like a gold chip that one with good overclocking abilities. read somewhere that fx 8350 needs like 500watt when clocked at 5ghz, the extreme heat would be explained by that. its 8 cores I guess they need alot of energy. Although I might be extremly wrong here, so dont take my word for it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Is the contact between the processor and the base of the heatsink good? Poor seating / uneven surfaces can cause pretty high temperatures. I had to re-seat my H100i 5-6 times to get dramatically lower temperatures.


hmm, made a huge reply and I misunderstood. I cant say i had any problems with it. but im def gonna look into it. Im sure its fine, but wouldnt hurt to test some more. rather safe then sorry


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> hmm, made a huge reply and I misunderstood. I cant say i had any problems with it. but im def gonna look into it. Im sure its fine, but wouldnt hurt to test some more. rather safe then sorry


Yeah I only asked cause I kept getting poor temperatures, and every time I took off the heatsink and inspected how good or poor TIM distribution was (to see where contact was bad), it was very uneven, and contact was quite poor. I tried a rice grain in the center, two rice grains, tried spreading evenly and very thinly, tried applying more and spreading out. In my case, I think something needs lapping, because applying more actually helped a LOT, so there's an unevennes in the heatsink surface somewhere. If your temps are in line with what others are seeing at your voltage, then ok.


----------



## CptAsian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crsn00*
> 
> Just a small update to my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I added red and black thumbscrews, carbon fiber to the psu and a red hdd activity led instead of the power led. I had planned on having all red thumbscrews but 3 out of the 7 I ordered weren't made correctly and didn't fit :/ so I went with red and black
> 
> I'm still having trouble getting decent pictures with the not so great camera I have but this is the best I could do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very impressive, I really like color coordination and the little mods you did on that. What heatsink is that, by the way?


----------



## crsn00

Thanks







The cooler is a XIGMATEK Dark Knight II


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> This is how a Phobya xtreme 400mm / EK XTC 280mm radiator looks inside a Define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was hard work for sure
> 
> Clocked my fx 8350 to 5.4, it refuse to boot at higher speeds, suspect my motherboard cant handle it. I am aiming for a really stable 5 to 5.2 ghz. not done much clocking yet. just happy the thing works hehe
> 
> My entire buildlogg http://www.sweclockers.com/galleri/11049-define-r4-med-400mmfront280mmtop-radiator


love dat 400mm rad in front


----------



## gilljoy

Ordered my R4 today. So excited for it to arrive.

Edit: are the stock fans on it good? If not what should I pick up?


----------



## K4IKEN

I think the stock fans are just fine. They are super silent, but don't move a lot of air in my opinion.


----------



## hawker

I've got a Fractal Design Define XL since last year June.
By far the most proper case I've ever had. It's stylish, quiet, airflow is ok, although I always have one sidepanel off the case.

I decided to get a custom watercooling loop last december so I had to mod the case a bit in order to fit a 240 rad at the top of the case.

I cut a hole on the top of my case and put a fan grill on it. ( Yes I know the hole isn't the prettiest one )


----------



## Lshuman

I just got my Define R4 in yesterday. Now the onlything I'm waiting for is the SSD which should come tomorrow.


----------



## gilljoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I think the stock fans are just fine. They are super silent, but don't move a lot of air in my opinion.


Ahh I'll see what temps are like and I may have to replace them eventually then.

Thanks for the help


----------



## Gizzernl

Nice builds guys. Really love all the creative and sleak things you do with the fractal cases. Here is my own little build. I hope you like and will provide feedback, positive please hahah. Constructive criticism is also more then welcome.

After reeding a lot of the posts in this Fractal Design topic, I decided to start my own in Fractal Design build. After some searching and defining my requirements, I ended up at the Define Mini. I wanted a small case that can handle a small but powerfull system.

So after some hardware jugling, moving from Z68 with a 2500k, I finally ended up at Socket 2011 with a I7 3820. I came across some bargain hardware I could not pass on.

I also decided that this m-atx should be housing my first Custom Watercooling loop. Below, if you keep reading, you will find a sort of build log. But first a overview of the hardware that will pass those brave enough to read on:

Hardware
Intel I7 3820
Asus ROG Rampage IV Gene
Mushkin Redline Ridgeback DDR3 1600mhz CL 7-8-7-24 T1
EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB
Chieftec Nitro 88+ 850W
Corsair Force GT 64GB
Samsung HD103J

Watercooling
Aquastream XT Ultra
EKWB Supreme LTX CSQ Copper Plexi
Thermochill PA120.2
Aquacomputer inline tempsensor 2X
Aquascomputer flowsensor 1X
Aquacomputer temperature sensor 2
Antec H2O 620 with Dwood bracket

Here are some pictures to give you some idea of the build and the mods performed on the case (sorry about the grainy quality Iphone 4 and low light do NOT mix):

The starting point of the build, a Z68 Gene IV with 2500k setup.


I got everything out of the case, and in the mean time decided to go for socket 2011. I got a great bargain and was able to sell my 2500k setup with a small profit, so I decided to go for it.

First to make sure the radiator would fit in its intended place


Ready to start cutting


Cutting all done, there is room in the bottom of the 5,25 for the top of the radiator and the flowsensor and tempsensor.


I ordered some stands for the radiator cause the fan mounting holes on the rad did not match the fan spacing and placement of the define mini. The stands however were intended to be used with the radiator in a horizontal orientation. Not in a vertical position. Here some pictures. The stands are from bitspower.



I was planning to place the reservoir, just behind the radiator. Well that did not fly.


At least I got the holes drilled for the radiator stands. The stands will be placed on some spacers (doorstops from the hardware store)
The spacers can be seen on the bottom of the reservoir fitting photo.

Next up was the hardware installation, and assembling the first watercooling components.




Next up was the cpu loop completion and testing of the loop:

The test was succesfull. The next few days I fastened all the fittings a few more times. The first 2 times a couple of more tightening actions were easy, so additional tightening was necessary.

Continuing further with the build, I started with placing the hardware and all the wiring.


So next up was installing the rest of the hardware:
First up was the ram:


Followed by the GTX 670 with Antec 620 (with the scythe in this shot, facing the wrong direction. This has been corrected


After this it was all smooth sailing to the finish. So here are some overview shots. I plan on doing more including temperature results from before and after oc'ing. So I will be back. Here are the overview shots, enjoy.


----------



## adridu59

^ That looks good but do you have bigger pictures by any chance?

I can't see much with those you provided tbh.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> I just got my Define R4 in yesterday. Now the onlything I'm waiting for is the SSD which should come tomorrow.


Nice, I'd take out the upper HDD cage through.


----------



## ElevenEleven

❀❀ Project Violet ❀❀ moving along









http://www.overclock.net/t/1378838/case-mod-project-violet/30#post_19715024


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> ❀❀ Project Violet ❀❀ moving along
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1378838/case-mod-project-violet/30#post_19715024


I was going to suggest some vinyls, now I see I didn't have to.









Edit:







Just read the full thread on it, that you painted those freehand is boss.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> ^ That looks good but do you have bigger pictures by any chance?
> 
> I can't see much with those you provided tbh.
> Nice, I'd take out the upper HDD cage through.


Thank you, I'm waiting for the SSD, after i put that in i'll do the cable management and take out the upper drive cage. If you click on the pics they should go to their original size.


----------



## Thuwarakan

Do the corsair fans fit perfectly or did you have to make some mods to make it fit? Mind posting pictures of your cpu cooler with the fans close-up?


----------



## Thuwarakan

Looking at all your beautiful builds i dont know if i should go with the corsair 650d or the fractal design define r4...damn.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> Looking at all your beautiful builds i dont know if i should go with the corsair 650d or the fractal design define r4...damn.


When your talking to a certain person just click quote on the bottom right of their post and it will come up like i have done with you.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> I was going to suggest some vinyls, now I see I didn't have to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just read the full thread on it, that you painted those freehand is boss.


Thank you. The designs didn't come out as neatly as I wanted them, but painting by dipping a paint brush into spraypaint is a huge pain! Paint dries super fast, so I had to re-spray every couple minutes, and my paint brush kept getting stiff. Couldn't paint with anything else due to potential incompatibility with clear coat and long dry time of real oil paints







Came out a bit cartooney, but it's ok.


----------



## ivoryg37

Does anyone have picture of their cable management with two SSD drives behind the motherboard? I just got my Arc MIDI R2 but having trouble with the sata cables


----------



## dumafourlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Thank you. The designs didn't come out as neatly as I wanted them, but painting by dipping a paint brush into spraypaint is a huge pain! Paint dries super fast, so I had to re-spray every couple minutes, and my paint brush kept getting stiff. Couldn't paint with anything else due to potential incompatibility with clear coat and long dry time of real oil paints
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Came out a bit cartooney, but it's ok.


I think it turned out just fine despite your painting woes!


----------



## blue-cat

Does anyone else think the the front panel comes off WAY too easily on the Define R4 !? I love tidy cable management and it means that my cables are pretty tight. The front panel comes off at the slightest force and my audio and fan connections come loose and are really difficult to get back in (because of the short lenght/cable management). I actually thought that the audio was incompatible with my motherboard when I first got it until I realised the header was disconnected.

On another note, what kind of lighting have people used for their windowed cases? I'd love some plain white LED illumination or perhaps orange but being able to see the individual LEDs when you remove the sidepanel looks a little tacky to me.


----------



## ElevenEleven

The front panel does come off easily, but not too easily for me to worry about it. The USB ports are REALLY tight (as are the audio ports). My USB 3.0 front port actually popped out by half an inch or so yesterday when I was pulling out a cord and I had to push it back in. I'm more careful now. Front audio works, no problems, as do all of the USB ports. Can't help with lighting as I'm using a kind that changes colors with a dial.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Does anyone else think the the front panel comes off WAY too easily on the Define R4 !? I love tidy cable management and it means that my cables are pretty tight. The front panel comes off at the slightest force and my audio and fan connections come loose and are really difficult to get back in (because of the short lenght/cable management). I actually thought that the audio was incompatible with my motherboard when I first got it until I realised the header was disconnected.
> 
> On another note, what kind of lighting have people used for their windowed cases? I'd love some plain white LED illumination or perhaps orange but being able to see the individual LEDs when you remove the sidepanel looks a little tacky to me.


----------



## jsarver

mine is set up that way. you need to give a good bend to the sata cable. mine is in an r4 thought so i have some more wiggle room


----------



## Lshuman

Okay my SSD came in today now i'm finished with my build.


----------



## crsn00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> Do the corsair fans fit perfectly or did you have to make some mods to make it fit? Mind posting pictures of your cpu cooler with the fans close-up?


Who was this directed at?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> On another note, what kind of lighting have people used for their windowed cases? I'd love some plain white LED illumination or perhaps orange but being able to see the individual LEDs when you remove the sidepanel looks a little tacky to me.


I have both white leds (along the top) and red leds (along the bottom) in my rig and I really like how it turned out. The white illuminates the components nicely while the red gives everything a slight glow and isn't overpowering. I have the lights connected to two separate controllers so I can change the brightness of each individually and can turn off one or the other if I want to change the look. If you run the led strings on the edges behind where the side panel hooks on then they aren't that noticeable but I usually have the side panel on anyways so it doesn't bother me.


----------



## gilljoy

Arrived today, transferred across. Very very happy with it


----------



## blue-cat

My friend asked me to copy some files over from a broken external to a new external so I decided to finish off my SATA cables making the final connections the perfect length. I now have SEVEN of the eight bays filled with HDDs for 7.75 TB of space.

PROBLEM: There are some screws that protrude too far down so when I test fitted a harddrive in the top bay it didn't go in smoothly. I thought it was the standard stiffnes so I pushed a little harder but I pulled it out and theres a long scratch in the metal of my HDD!







Not sure whether or not to complain about this as it means I can't put a 3.5 in the top bay without buying a metal file or taking my cheap hobby tool to it (which is alot of effort and mess).

Loving how little dust is inside the case though! After 3 weeks at my parents REALLY DUSTY house I couldn't find a single piece of dust in there! Just need to remount my GPU cooler to stop it going into overdrive and crashing if I want to look at the BIOS.


----------



## Malik

Little changes... gpu down, sound up


----------



## K4IKEN

I will never get tired of seeing your build.


----------



## Thuwarakan

Project #1 Codename: Lil' Ass Kicker

Has anyone tried making a water cooled system in the Fractal Design Arc Midi or Fractal Design Arc Midi 2?

This is going to be my first water cooled system, i have been doing research for a while now on parts etc. My budget for water cooling is $300-$400. But i care a lot about quality so if i must i will spend some more.

The parts i am going to buy:

Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
Intel i5 3570k
Asus Maximus V Gene
Corsair Vengeance 16gb 1866MHz
Evga GeForce GTX 660 (First water cooled build so going with a cheap graphics card for now. Going to purchase the Evga 680 or the Evga 680 Hyrdo after a few months)
Samsung 840 Pro 128GB
Lamptron FC-6
Corsair AX760 (Yes, i know it is overkill but i like the red/black/white colors lol.)

So far after some research and reading reviews i have come up with some parts, but i can't find a lot of people who have accomplished building a water cooled system in this case yet. I do not plan on water cooling the motherboard or ram. Only the CPU and GPU for now!

CPU Block EK Supremacy Elite
GPU Block EK-FC660 GTX (Only company that has a GPU water block for the GTX 660)

What you guys think of the CPU and GPU blocks? Can i do better?

I plan on putting a 240mm radiator at the Top(Push Config with Corsair SP120) and 240mm radiator in the Front(Pull Config with Corsair SP120). Is this overkill? Btw, i will be overclocking my CPU and GPU.

I will be using compression fittings, 90' angle fittings and 45' angle fittings. Still deciding on the tubings...any suggestions?

Finally i will be needing a pump and reservoir. Any suggestions? The case seems pretty tight so maybe a combo would work better.


----------



## Thuwarakan

I saw this build on http://www.ekwb.com/



I thought i remember seeing this build posted here too. Would someone link me to his/her build log? or specs the build is beautiful.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> I saw this build on http://www.ekwb.com/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought i remember seeing this build posted here too. Would someone link me to his/her build log? or specs the build is beautiful.


looks like malik's build


----------



## AndySarsen

I just picked up a Node 304, and I'm building a replacement system for my old AMD Phenom II system that was in a Rosewill Destroyer this weekend. Saturday Drive to Cleveland, OH Micro Center and MELT FTW!









Components:
Fractal Design Node 304
Gigabyte GA-Z77N-WIFI
Intel Core i7-3770k
Silverstone NT-06 PRO Cooler
XFX Double D Radeon HD 7870 Black Edition
Patriot Gamer 2 DDR3-1600 2x4GB (low-profile throwaways, which will be replaced with something matching my black/white/red color scheme, like Corsair Vengeance DIMMs)
Silverstone ST45SF-G 450W fully-modular PSU
Silverstone PP05 short cable set
Crucial M4 256GB SSD
Western Digital Scorpio Black 750GB 2.5" HDD

Planned Additions:
Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition for the NT-06
Corsair Vengeane or similar low-profile RAM that goes with the color scheme
Lutro0 Customs sleeving for the Silverstone PP05 kit

I've thought about doing a build log, as I've not seen a really identical configuration to mine yet. For starters, I haven't seen many reviews of the cooler I chose, and spent a good bit of time on the phone with Silverstone and Gigabyte to verify compatibility. I'm going for a more balanced approach between super-high-end overclocked and relatively quiet, energy-efficient in my build. If anybody's curious, it's going to be used primarily for gaming and music recording with lots of tracking, VST plugins and instrument/amplifier modeling for my solo music projects as well as my metal band, SARSEN.


----------



## adridu59

^ FYI the Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI is voltage-locked
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thuwarakan*
> 
> The parts i am going to buy:
> 
> Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
> Intel i5 3570k
> Asus Maximus V Gene
> Corsair Vengeance 16gb 1866MHz
> Evga GeForce GTX 660 (First water cooled build so going with a cheap graphics card for now. Going to purchase the Evga 680 or the Evga 680 Hyrdo after a few months)
> Samsung 840 Pro 128GB
> Lamptron FC-6
> Corsair AX760 (Yes, i know it is overkill but i like the red/black/white colors lol.).


Honestly for the same price I would get 8GB of memory which is overkill already for all common uses, a Rosewill Capstone 550W-M, and there you could go right off with an HD 7950 which is a monster in terms of performance.

If you like the red color scheme on the PSU, you can always use a custom sticker, checkout this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1070408/custom-psu-sticker-thread/0_20

Links:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182262
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231455
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202006


----------



## AndySarsen

Quote:


> ^ FYI the Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI is voltage-locked


Thanks, I'm aware, and normally this would be a moderate concern for me. With this build, though, I'm not likely to overclock past 4.0-4.2, since heat and noise are likely going to be a factor.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndySarsen*
> 
> Thanks, I'm aware, and normally this would be a moderate concern for me. With this build, though, I'm not likely to overclock past 4.0-4.2, since heat and noise are likely going to be a factor.


That'll make a great motherboard then.


----------



## SynerOnline

Heya! Im syner =] I'm new to overclock.net and wanted to join the club!
A little bit about my build;

Fractal design r4 Mid Tower case titanium grey (Windowed)
Intel Ivy bridge i5 3570k OC to 4.5ghz (Stable so far xD)
Phanteks ph-tc14pe Air cooler in blue
ASUS p8z77-vPRO motherboard
Corsair Vengeance blue 16GB 1600mhz (4X4GB)
KFA² GeForce GTX 670 EX OC
OCZ 750w Power supply (Bronze Certified)
x3 Bitfenix spectre pro 140mm fans blue LED
x2 Fractal design supplied Silent Fans
2TB 3.5inch Seagate HDD
Custom LED lighting installation (remote controlled)

Loved every minute of putting this rig together!

wondered what you guys think?!

Syner


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynerOnline*
> 
> Heya! Im syner =] I'm new to overclock.net and wanted to join the club!
> A little bit about my build;
> 
> Fractal design r4 Midi ATX case titanium grey (Windowed)
> Intel Ivy bridge i5 3570k OC to 4.5ghz (Stable so far xD)
> Phanteks ph-tc14pe Air cooler in blue
> ASUS p8z77-vPRO motherboard
> Corsair Vengeance blue 16GB 1600mhz (4X4GB)
> KFA² GeForce GTX 670 EX OC
> OCZ 750w Power supply (Bronze Certified)
> x3 Bitfenix spectre pro 140mm fans blue LED
> x2 Fractal design supplied Silent Fans
> 2TB 3.5inch Seagate HDD
> Custom LED lighting installation (remote controlled)
> 
> Loved every minute of putting this rig together!
> 
> wondered what you guys think?!
> 
> Syner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: *__*


Welcome to OCN!









You have a really nice build!








I do really like your lighting.

Not a lot else to say.
Just a really good looking rig, you have there.


----------



## mshaddix

Very nice! I need to pickup a windowed side panel. My wife uses that case now, and I'm just sure she would love a window!


----------



## SynerOnline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a really nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do really like your lighting.
> 
> Not a lot else to say.
> Just a really good looking rig, you have there.


Thanks for the welcome man!

It can go any shade of RGB with the remote I have for it
it also stobes and other effects xD I love it


----------



## SynerOnline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mshaddix*
> 
> Very nice! I need to pickup a windowed side panel. My wife uses that case now, and I'm just sure she would love a window!


Thanks originally I got the non windowed version but the stuff I filled it with was too good not to show off xD

you do have to keep it clean though especially if you have lighting otherwise it shows all the marks on the window aha


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynerOnline*
> 
> Thanks for the welcome man!
> 
> It can go any shade of RGB with the remote I have for it
> it also stobes and other effects xD I love it


That sounds great!
Is it the NZXT-Hue?

Would love to see a Video of that thing thought..


----------



## SynerOnline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> That sounds great!
> Is it the NZXT-Hue?
> 
> Would love to see a Video of that thing thought..


Nah its actually a LED kit from the electronics shop I work in,
Its just been adapted to molex power xD looks great though


----------



## zinfinion




----------



## kraftyhosting

My modded core 1000, almost finished. Just waiting on my 240MM rad and pump/res to arrive


















[/URL]


----------



## ElevenEleven

Miss Violet is finished and is off to the races! (in my mother's office)



For all the gory details and loads of photos:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1378838/case-mod-project-violet


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Miss Violet is finished and is off to the races! (in my mother's office)
> 
> For all the gory details and loads of photos:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1378838/case-mod-project-violet


Nice glow, is the jsut the fan or leds?

Just spent the last 5/6 hours on this. So much effort to cut out my fingertips have gone hard.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Nice glow, is the jsut the fan or leds?
> 
> Just spent the last 5/6 hours on this. So much effort to cut out my fingertips have gone hard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












It's purple LED strips + purple LED fans.


----------



## K4IKEN

Anyone got a pair of the Bgear 140mm fans in the front of their R4?


----------



## lurker2501

HAVEN'T POSTED HERE IN A WHILE. CURRENT STATE OF THE MESS.


----------



## KevGann

(KraftyHosting) What motherboard are you using in that case? I'm thinking about building a matx platform PC.


----------



## AndySarsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> HAVEN'T POSTED HERE IN A WHILE. CURRENT STATE OF THE MESS.


NICE! Blacker than Black!


----------



## kraftyhosting

Asrock X79 Extreme-4M think its one of the only 2011 Matx boards


----------



## grazz1984

Hi ive just orderd my fractal arc mini does anyone know if i can just screw a 240m rad to the front (inside) without modding the case?


----------



## SynerOnline

I know you can fit a 240mm in the R4 I've seen a few videos and threads on it, I would probably check the dimensions perhaps Google it is your best bet


----------



## kraftyhosting

Core 1k mod finished for now!



http://imgur.com/CBIl8HL


----------



## OmegaRED.

I made the unusual choice of going from a Cosmos II to a Define R4. I had already built an HTPC with the R4 and loved it so it was just a matter of time before I got another one. Amazingly, my temps are great and the overall noise profile is much quieter. Though it also downgraded from SLI GTX 680s to 660TI's which aided in that happening. I have Asus DCUII models and they are practically silent and temps are phenomenal in the R4. I dont even have a side door fan for the gpus because the temps made me cocky. Will post pics tomorrow.


----------



## ScottAllyn

I've been playing around with tube routing in my new Arc Midi R2 this evening. I think I've settled on this:



That's just temporary 1/2" OD tubing; the final tubing will be 5/8" OD. The radiator fans will be in Pull configuration with 30mm shrouds and that top tube going from the bay reservoir to the motherboard is actually going to end up passing directly thru a shroud (dremel time!).

Yes, there is enough room for the power supply cables, but just barely. Heating them up with a hair dryer got them to be flexible enough to make that sharp bend w/o too much stress on the pins.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> I've been playing around with tube routing in my new Arc Midi R2 this evening. I think I've settled on this:
> 
> 
> 
> That's just temporary 1/2" OD tubing; the final tubing will be 5/8" OD. The radiator fans will be in Pull configuration with 30mm shrouds and that top tube going from the bay reservoir to the motherboard is actually going to end up passing directly thru a shroud (dremel time!).
> 
> Yes, there is enough room for the power supply cables, but just barely. Heating them up with a hair dryer got them to be flexible enough to make that sharp bend w/o too much stress on the pins.


Nice and clean. Which fans are you using and are you planning to go Push/Pull?
30mm shrouds, I would have gone with 10mm gaskets instead.


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice and clean. Which fans are you using and are you planning to go Push/Pull?


I was originally planning on going with the Swiftech Helix 120mm; I thought the white blades would look cool with my white cables and tubing. After testing them against my old GT AP-15's, tho... I'm going to stick with the GT's. The GT's just move a lot more air thru the radiators & filters with a more "pleasing" swoooosh.









The radiator fans will all be Pull.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> I was originally planning on going with the Swiftech Helix 120mm; I thought the white blades would look cool with my white cables and tubing. After testing them against my old GT AP-15's, tho... I'm going to stick with the GT's. The GT's just move a lot more air thru the radiators & filters with a more "pleasing" swoooosh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The radiator fans will all be Pull.


Got really confused when I looked at the CPU.







Looks nice and clean though.


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Got really confused when I looked at the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice and clean though.


I was wondering if that'd get comments!







I basically just taped the tubes to the temporary socket cover so that I could see how it'd look w/o having to break out the cpu block. Ultimately there'll be an XSPC Raystorm there, parked on top of my 3770K:


----------



## ZeVo

Hey guys, got a quick question for ya.

I was stupid and drilled out the hard drive cages thinking I'd never buy a hard drive. Well... I in actual need of one now.

Where do you guys think I should mount it? I was thinking of mounting it right under the 5.25 cages? Or maybe using the 3.5 to 5.25 adapter?


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> I've been playing around with tube routing in my new Arc Midi R2 this evening. I think I've settled on this:
> 
> 
> 
> That's just temporary 1/2" OD tubing; the final tubing will be 5/8" OD. The radiator fans will be in Pull configuration with 30mm shrouds and that top tube going from the bay reservoir to the motherboard is actually going to end up passing directly thru a shroud (dremel time!).
> 
> Yes, there is enough room for the power supply cables, but just barely. Heating them up with a hair dryer got them to be flexible enough to make that sharp bend w/o too much stress on the pins.


Really nice 10/10


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice and clean. Which fans are you using and are you planning to go Push/Pull?
> 
> 
> 
> I was originally planning on going with the Swiftech Helix 120mm; I thought the white blades would look cool with my white cables and tubing. After testing them against my old GT AP-15's, tho... I'm going to stick with the GT's. The GT's just move a lot more air thru the radiators & filters with a more "pleasing" swoooosh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The radiator fans will all be Pull.
Click to expand...

The difference from the helix and GT15 is little. What the Helix is good for low FPI rads.
Here is a video from Martin Liquid Labs comparing the Helix to the GT15.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> ^ FYI the Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI is voltage-locked
> Honestly for the same price I would get 8GB of memory which is overkill already for all common uses, a Rosewill Capstone 550W-M, and there you could go right off with an HD 7950 which is a monster in terms of performance.
> 
> If you like the red color scheme on the PSU, you can always use a custom sticker, checkout this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1070408/custom-psu-sticker-thread/0_20
> 
> Links:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182262
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231455
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202006


No this is what you would like. He never asked anyone for there help with his build. I don't understand why some people feel as though what they like is what everyone else should like. You have to just appreciate other peoples choices and give compliment, not tell them what they should by. This make you look like you are jealous of his build choice's.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynerOnline*
> 
> Heya! Im syner =] I'm new to overclock.net and wanted to join the club!
> A little bit about my build;
> 
> Fractal design r4 Mid Tower case titanium grey (Windowed)
> Intel Ivy bridge i5 3570k OC to 4.5ghz (Stable so far xD)
> Phanteks ph-tc14pe Air cooler in blue
> ASUS p8z77-vPRO motherboard
> Corsair Vengeance blue 16GB 1600mhz (4X4GB)
> KFA² GeForce GTX 670 EX OC
> OCZ 750w Power supply (Bronze Certified)
> x3 Bitfenix spectre pro 140mm fans blue LED
> x2 Fractal design supplied Silent Fans
> 2TB 3.5inch Seagate HDD
> Custom LED lighting installation (remote controlled)
> 
> Loved every minute of putting this rig together!
> 
> wondered what you guys think?!
> 
> Syner


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> ^ FYI the Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI is voltage-locked
> Honestly for the same price I would get 8GB of memory which is overkill already for all common uses, a Rosewill Capstone 550W-M, and there you could go right off with an HD 7950 which is a monster in terms of performance.
> 
> If you like the red color scheme on the PSU, you can always use a custom sticker, checkout this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1070408/custom-psu-sticker-thread/0_20
> 
> Links:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182262
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231455
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202006


Case and light looks good, although cable management is terrible.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> No this is what you would like. He never asked anyone for there help with his build. I don't understand why some people feel as though what they like is what everyone else should like. You have to just appreciate other peoples choices and give compliment, not tell them what they should by. This make you look like you are jealous of his build choice's.


Liking?
Explain me how you do "like" computer parts?

I'm just suggesting parts that have better value and better suit the build, not components that have a nicer color or IDK what is the point here.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> No this is what you would like. He never asked anyone for there help with his build. I don't understand why some people feel as though what they like is what everyone else should like. You have to just appreciate other peoples choices and give compliment, not tell them what they should by. This make you look like you are jealous of his build choice's.


Before you go off accusing someone and labeling them inappropriately, re-read the original posts:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndySarsen*
> 
> I just picked up a Node 304, and I'm building a replacement system for my old AMD Phenom II system that was in a Rosewill Destroyer this weekend. Saturday Drive to Cleveland, OH Micro Center and MELT FTW!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Components:
> Fractal Design Node 304
> Gigabyte GA-Z77N-WIFI
> Intel Core i7-3770k
> Silverstone NT-06 PRO Cooler
> XFX Double D Radeon HD 7870 Black Edition
> Patriot Gamer 2 DDR3-1600 2x4GB (low-profile throwaways, which will be replaced with something matching my black/white/red color scheme, like Corsair Vengeance DIMMs)
> Silverstone ST45SF-G 450W fully-modular PSU
> Silverstone PP05 short cable set
> Crucial M4 256GB SSD
> Western Digital Scorpio Black 750GB 2.5" HDD
> 
> Planned Additions:
> Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition for the NT-06
> Corsair Vengeane or similar low-profile RAM that goes with the color scheme
> Lutro0 Customs sleeving for the Silverstone PP05 kit
> 
> I've thought about doing a build log, as I've not seen a really identical configuration to mine yet. For starters, I haven't seen many reviews of the cooler I chose, and spent a good bit of time on the phone with Silverstone and Gigabyte to verify compatibility. *I'm going for a more balanced approach between super-high-end overclocked and relatively quiet, energy-efficient in my build*. If anybody's curious, it's going to be used primarily for gaming and music recording with lots of tracking, VST plugins and instrument/amplifier modeling for my solo music projects as well as my metal band, SARSEN.


People usually put up their preliminary lists on a public forum with an expectation that someone will comment and add critique/advice. Moreover, he did mention, somewhat ambiguously, that he may want to overclock. But again, it's a public discussion forum, so if anyone does not want their rigs discussed, they wouldn't / shouldn't post them.


----------



## OmegaRED.

I downgraded my main PC (Gaming RIG) from a Cosmos II to a Fractal Design Define 4 and SLI 680 Twin Frozrs to SLI 660TI DCUII. It makes for a quieter gaming build that still packs quite the punch.

Reason for this craziness...girlfriend moved in and complained about the size of the Cosmos 2. She loves the R4 I have in the living room as an HTPC so it made sense to buy a second one for my main rig.

BEFORE


AFTER
(sorry about the quality...also sold off the camera used in the first pic )


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmegaRED.*
> 
> I downgraded my main PC (Gaming RIG) from a Cosmos II to a Fractal Design Define 4 and SLI 680 Twin Frozrs to SLI 660TI DCUII. It makes for a quieter gaming build that still packs quite the punch.
> 
> Reason for this craziness...girlfriend moved in and complained about the size of the Cosmos 2. She loves the R4 I have in the living room as an HTPC so it made sense to buy a second one for my main rig.
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> 
> AFTER
> (sorry about the quality...also sold off the camera used in the first pic )


I would remove the top HDD cage and move the HDD to lower cage. SSD can be mounted anywhere. Also add another fan to the front or make sure it is on top section. Fix the cable clutter and your done.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Before you go off accusing someone and labeling them inappropriately, re-read the original posts:
> People usually put up their preliminary lists on a public forum with an expectation that someone will comment and add critique/advice. Moreover, he did mention, somewhat ambiguously, that he may want to overclock. But again, it's a public discussion forum, so if anyone does not want their rigs discussed, they wouldn't / shouldn't post them.


First off I never labeled any one, and second I read the post you need to re-read it.

Please point out the part where they are asking for advice on anything. They are simply saying what the build consist of. I'm not trying to be an a-hole, but i really do not see where they said they need advice on parts.


----------



## OmegaRED.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would remove the top HDD cage and move the HDD to lower cage. SSD can be mounted anywhere. Also add another fan to the front or make sure it is on top section. Fix the cable clutter and your done.


I have 2 Corsair AF140 (140mm) fans in the front and moved the stock fans to the back and top. That's true about the SSD but don't you have to remove the motherboard to do this? A lot of the cable clutter is due to a Recon fan controller below the BD RW drive, there's tons of wires that go to various areas of the case not all can be hidden I think.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmegaRED.*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would remove the top HDD cage and move the HDD to lower cage. SSD can be mounted anywhere. Also add another fan to the front or make sure it is on top section. Fix the cable clutter and your done.
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2 Corsair AF140 (140mm) fans in the front and moved the stock fans to the back and top. That's true about the SSD but don't you have to remove the motherboard to do this? A lot of the cable clutter is due to a Recon fan controller below the BD RW drive, there's tons of wires that go to various areas of the case not all can be hidden I think.
Click to expand...

You dont need to mount behind mobo. SSD has no moving parts. it can be placed anywhere. You can leave it sitting on top of the lower HDD cage.
Move the fan controller above the drive instead, and run wires behind case.

You hide all the cables, you can see in my case wires are limited with my fan controller.


----------



## blue-cat

New LED strip lights came today, only £3.40 without molex connectors so I butchered my PSU cables a bit more. Hopefully I'll rewire it in orange and white in September anyway. I couldn't get the lighting right as it's a nice icey white light with nowhere near as much blue as it appears.


----------



## ZeVo

Anyone?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Hey guys, got a quick question for ya.
> 
> I was stupid and drilled out the hard drive cages thinking I'd never buy a hard drive. Well... I in actual need of one now.
> 
> Where do you guys think I should mount it? I was thinking of mounting it right under the 5.25 cages? Or maybe using the 3.5 to 5.25 adapter?


EDIT: I don't suppose it'd be possible to mount a HDD like a SSD because of all the moving parts and vibrations?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Can't you reattach the bottom cage using small nuts and bolts? I've completely disassembled a riveted case and re-assembled it successfully. But yes, with one drive, I normally take out the drive cages, and fit that drive into the top 5.25" empty bay. In your case, the other drive can go underneath or on the floor of the case, mounted with strong velcro or something.


----------



## Fiked

I'm stuck. I currently own the Define R4, a case I love. However I didn't buy the windowed version, a mistake I now regret. To add to this I also believe I'm deeper in love with the Arc Midi, so I have figured on buying it with a window so I can switch up and whichever case ends up the lesser can become a server case. In the last week however I have heard speculation on an Arc XL or it least that there is a prototype, has anyone else heard anything about this possibility? I would much rather wait a couple months and purchase it if I were aware it is a certainty.


----------



## BSLSK05

I have a question, I have an R3 that I would like some cooling advice on.

What is the best AIO that I can fit in there, or, should I just go air with the massive phantek cooler or the noctua d14?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Can't you reattach the bottom cage using small nuts and bolts? I've completely disassembled a riveted case and re-assembled it successfully. But yes, with one drive, I normally take out the drive cages, and fit that drive into the top 5.25" empty bay. In your case, the other drive can go underneath or on the floor of the case, mounted with strong velcro or something.


Thanks for the advice. I may just mount it in the included adapter in the 5.25 bay.

But I got a another question that is kind of silly. I tried putting the front grill and filter back but it seems like the filter won't fit on the grill properly and then it curves in the middle. I didn't know this and put my fan back on and felt the fan grinding against the filter. I honestly don't know...


----------



## AndySarsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BSLSK05*
> 
> I have a question, I have an R3 that I would like some cooling advice on.
> 
> What is the best AIO that I can fit in there, or, should I just go air with the massive phantek cooler or the noctua d14?


That depends on where you want to mount it. If you don't want to lose the sound insulation on the top, which should accomodate up to a 280mm cooler (such as Corsair H100i), then you're probably going to use the rear exhaust fan area with a 120mm or 140mm cooler (such as Corsair H60 orH80i). For the money, I really like the H60, since the 2013 version is very quiet and performs really well. The H80i includes the Corsair Link monitoring system, which is pretty rad, but is not quite as low-noise as the 60.

Obviously, ever answer you'll get is probably going to be different, based on the preferences of the responder. I'm slightly biased towards Corsair because I love the price/performance ratio they offer, the low-noise aspect, and the aesthetics of their products, but NZXT and Thermaltake (especially the WATER2.0) make great products as well.

I would recommend searching through the build logs to see what looks good to you, then check the reviews on all the products you highlight. I make a spreadsheet with the pros/cons and compare my budget and wish-list expectations to what I find in the reviews, and that approach has worked really well for me. Side benefit is that it's kept my spending under control


----------



## SynerOnline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Case and light looks good, although cable management is terrible.


Aha this is very true im gettin around to sorting it out just awaiting a modular psu to cut down on some cables, then im going to reroute them all.

thanks for the critique none the less its helpfull


----------



## BSLSK05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndySarsen*
> 
> That depends on where you want to mount it. If you don't want to lose the sound insulation on the top, which should accomodate up to a 280mm cooler


I have already removed it to run some cables through there a bit more easily, but my main concern is with my motherboard.

My VRM heat sink is right up against my top fans and is very tall.

P.S. I have an aging h60 that's giving me some bad idle and not so spectacular load temps. (its the cooler, not the install)


----------



## AndySarsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BSLSK05*
> 
> I have already removed it to run some cables through there a bit more easily, but my main concern is with my motherboard.
> 
> My VRM heat sink is right up against my top fans and is very tall.
> 
> P.S. I have an aging h60 that's giving me some bad idle and not so spectacular load temps. (its the cooler, not the install)


Yeah, in that case, I'd probably go with a 120-140mm CLC. The 2013 H60 again looks a bit better for cooling and noise, and the NZXT Kraken X40 in silent mode is pretty similar. The fittings on that one look like they might not get in the way as much either.


----------



## Gizzernl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kraftyhosting*
> 
> Asrock X79 Extreme-4M think its one of the only 2011 Matx boards


I am using the rampage gene IV and am very pleased. Managed to get 4,8~4,9ghz stable from my 3820. At 1,48volt though so gonna have to optimize a bit better. Temps stay at about 70 degrees Celsius in IBT on high.


----------



## {EAC} Shoot em UP

So my Define XL R2 came with standoffs that were too short and the mic/headphone jack was reversed, kinda annoying but o well. I call em up and they send me a pack with the right standoffs and a wire to reverse the audio, as well as a an extra fan too make up for it. Problem is, before I went to install the new 140mm fan, I did the very unscientific putting my hands over the fans test to see how much air they are actually moving as opposed to the Cougar 120 it will be replacing. To my surprise, it seams like the Fractal 140 moves quite a bit less air than my cougar 120... Anyone know if the fractal fans are actually any good? It looks WAY better and will match my color scheme unlike my cougar, but it just seems like they don't move any air at all in comparison.

I would pick up some AF140's but I can't drop almost 100 bucks on fans (already have 2 SP120's for radiators and love them).


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Will switching to this case from another case bring a significant or noticeable noise reduction? I'm using the same parts BTW...


----------



## ElevenEleven

^ It worked wonders for me, moving from a Bitfenix Prodigy to a Define R4.


----------



## ZeVo

Don't have pictures, but I put some double sided tape on my HDD and slapped it on underneath the 5.25 bays. Not only does it look good (IMO), it also keeps temps at about 27C and has no annoying vibrating noise I thought it'd have.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Don't have pictures, but I put some double sided tape on my HDD and slapped it on underneath the 5.25 bays. Not only does it look good (IMO), it also keeps temps at about 27C and has no annoying vibrating noise I thought it'd have.


Careful with tape--it might not be strong enough. I would use small sections of strong plastic velcro, such as this:


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Careful with tape--it might not be strong enough. I would use small sections of strong plastic velcro, such as this:


I used some 3M tape to do it (forgot the model no.) and put three big pieces so hopefully I'm good. As this is an old HDD, I could care less if anything happened to it.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I used some 3M tape to do it (forgot the model no.) and put three big pieces so hopefully I'm good. As this is an old HDD, I could care less if anything happened to it.


I COULD NOT care less!

Aside from that sticky Velcro is only as good as the adhesive backing, which is just the same for double sided tape. you just need to be careful with both. Although, if the drive ever reaches about 50-60 oC then it might start to loose its structure and your drive could fall, losing your data :-(


----------



## ElevenEleven

The velcro I linked specifically is extra strong (glue and locking)--which is why I recommended it.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I used some 3M tape to do it (forgot the model no.) and put three big pieces so hopefully I'm good. As this is an old HDD, I could care less if anything happened to it.


scotch tape 4010 maybe?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> I COULD NOT care less!
> 
> Aside from that sticky Velcro is only as good as the adhesive backing, which is just the same for double sided tape. you just need to be careful with both. Although, if the drive ever reaches about 50-60 oC then it might start to loose its structure and your drive could fall, losing your data :-(


This drive is about seven years old already and I only use it for recording my gameplay. Now if this was a new WD Black, I'd be a little more worried.

Believe it or not, with two NF-A14 fans in the front, CrystalDiskMark is reporting it at 27C. I guess since the hard drive is almost directly in front of the fans it's pretty cool.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> scotch tape 4010 maybe?


Actually, I remember not buying the "Tape of the Gods" as Bill Owen says it. I bought another model which says says it holds about 5 pounds per 1 inch of tape and I put about three inches so I hope I'll be good.


----------



## MiiX

Reason for me using that tape is that its easy to peel of when changing anything, no residue left on say the SSD and the case.


----------



## DBEAU

Question fellas. I built a little office comp for work with a core 1000 and fell in love with the size. Now I'm on a quest for a compact matx build.

The question is, How much watercooling do you think I can mod into a core 1000. I have a 240 and 280 rad both 60mm thick. any possibilities there?


----------



## AndySarsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Question fellas. I built a little office comp for work with a core 1000 and fell in love with the size. Now I'm on a quest for a compact matx build.
> 
> The question is, How much watercooling do you think I can mod into a core 1000. I have a 240 and 280 rad both 60mm thick. any possibilities there?


Here's a thread where somebody did similar.

Looks like quite an adventure, but I for one would love to see the results!


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndySarsen*
> 
> Here's a thread where somebody did similar.
> 
> Looks like quite an adventure, but I for one would love to see the results!


Looking at that makes me think there is no way a 280 (140.2) rad will fit in the front. May have to step up to the arc mini


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> I've been playing around with tube routing in my new Arc Midi R2 this evening. I think I've settled on this:
> 
> 
> 
> That's just temporary 1/2" OD tubing; the final tubing will be 5/8" OD. The radiator fans will be in Pull configuration with 30mm shrouds and that top tube going from the bay reservoir to the motherboard is actually going to end up passing directly thru a shroud (dremel time!).
> 
> Yes, there is enough room for the power supply cables, but just barely. Heating them up with a hair dryer got them to be flexible enough to make that sharp bend w/o too much stress on the pins.


Hey mate, which 240 is that up top? (I'm trying to figure out mobo clearances)


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Hey mate, which 240 is that up top? (I'm trying to figure out mobo clearances)


Looks to be a UT60 (60mm)


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Hey mate, which 240 is that up top? (I'm trying to figure out mobo clearances)


It's a 60mm thick Alphacool NexXxoS UT60. With another 55mm taken up by the shrouds and fans, half of the CPU block is blocked from view.


----------



## BBEG

Excellent, thanks.


----------



## catbuster

Just curious, has any1 instaled 280 rad on top (inside case) of r4?


----------



## BBEG

None will fit without cutting away at least part of the 5.25 bay cage. Not that hard to mod though, if you have cutting tools.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Can a Corsair H100i fit at the top of the case? For the R4


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Can a Corsair H100i fit at the top of the case? For the R4


Yes, with no problems.


----------



## sobi1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Yes, with no problems.


but not in push pull


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Can a Corsair H100i fit at the top of the case? For the R4


If you want push/pull the get the Arc Midi R2 instead.


----------



## gtsteviiee

What's wrong with doing push/pull? Does it not fit very well? If I do push/pull, is putting it in the front a better choice?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

There is not enough clearance on top. As for the front, maybe if the tube is long enough to reach. Arc Midi R2 has no issues with plenty of room.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## majax

I just bought the Fractal R4 windowless case. I have two questions:

1) How many additional fans should I get for this case and what configuration should I use?

2) What brand/model of fan should I get?


----------



## HingedEmu

R4 happy owner... btw does any1 knows how to disconnect the upper hdd cage mounts?


----------



## gilljoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HingedEmu*
> 
> R4 happy owner... btw does any1 knows how to disconnect the upper hdd cage mounts?


Is there not a thumscrew you remove then just give it a yank?

Anyone have any recommendations for 140mm fans to replace the stock ones?

Looking at Corsair AF 140 but I'm not sure if they're worth picking up


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Is there not a thumscrew you remove then just give it a yank?
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations for 140mm fans to replace the stock ones?
> 
> Looking at Corsair AF 140 but I'm not sure if they're worth picking up


I have 5 of them in my system, and I think they are outstanding!

****Updates****

Feels like forever since I last posted.....*Green NZXT case lights and Noctua D14 incoming!*

_*Pictures coming soon!!!*_


----------



## gilljoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I have 5 of them in my system, and I think they are outstanding!
> 
> ****Updates****
> 
> Feels like forever since I last posted.....*Green NZXT case lights and Noctua D14 incoming!*
> 
> _*Pictures coming soon!!!*_


Excelent time to replace my stock ones + the ones on my radiator with sp120's


----------



## bojsha

Guys is there any way to order a side panel for Arc Mini?







i realy,realy need it.
sorry if i posted in the wrong thread.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HingedEmu*
> 
> R4 happy owner... btw does any1 knows how to disconnect the upper hdd cage mounts?


http://s1096.photobucket.com/user/BBEG/media/P30119-160200.jpg.html

Remove the 4 screws you see here on the bottom of the 5.25 cage.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is not enough clearance on top. As for the front, maybe if the tube is long enough to reach. Arc Midi R2 has no issues with plenty of room.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


Oh,okay. Thanks!


----------



## bojsha

please help me







guys


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bojsha*
> 
> please help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> guys


Side panel you need to contact manufacture for that.


----------



## bojsha

I did, have sent 2 emails
one few days back and today, i got no answer


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bojsha*
> 
> Guys is there any way to order a side panel for Arc Mini?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i realy,realy need it.
> sorry if i posted in the wrong thread.


I don't think they make a window panel for the Mini.


----------



## jcamp6336

a couple of crappy shots of my "finished" R4


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

it is the weekend now, have to wait till Monday.
It takes a few days to respond. I dont think there is a way to order one as dont see one on there site.

Whats wrong with side panel you have? If it defective and you just bought take it back to the place where you got it.


----------



## K4IKEN

Phanteks looks awesome in these cases!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> a couple of crappy shots of my "finished" R4
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Nice lighting and well done on this.


----------



## HingedEmu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gilljoy*
> 
> Is there not a thumscrew you remove then just give it a yank?
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations for 140mm fans to replace the stock ones?
> 
> Looking at Corsair AF 140 but I'm not sure if they're worth picking up


I tried, its stuck super hard in there ><.
Took me 30min just to take out the upper part and i cant move the bottom one at all. Ideas?


----------



## spawn447

finished my daughters pc
http://s112.photobucket.com/user/sp...f-4836-ae3f-7ef714b935b6_zpsd6243138.jpg.html


----------



## gtsteviiee

How in the world do you use the fan controller? And is it normal to use all your strength to pull the side windows!?!?

here's a photo by the way:


H100i coming in, and i'm removing the HDD cage once it arrives.


----------



## D33G33

A slight update from mine. Mounted the res directly on top of the pump and a slight change to tubing. I also delidded the CPU with MASSIVE improvements.
Before delid @ 4.4ghz 1 hour session of OCCT max temp was 80 degrees, after the delidding max temp was 66 degrees.

Now i'm running at 4.6ghz 24/7 and after about 3 hours of Bioshock max temp recorded was 63 degrees









I also drilled in some nutserts to mount the full plexi side panel. I think it looks great


----------



## StevenT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> A slight update from mine. Mounted the res directly on top of the pump and a slight change to tubing. I also delidded the CPU with MASSIVE improvements.
> Before delid @ 4.4ghz 1 hour session of OCCT max temp was 80 degrees, after the delidding max temp was 66 degrees.
> 
> Now i'm running at 4.6ghz 24/7 and after about 3 hours of Bioshock max temp recorded was 63 degrees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled in some nutserts to mount the full plexi side panel. I think it looks great


whao nice watercooled fractal design


----------



## bojsha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I don't think they make a window panel for the Mini.


yes, i know that.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> it is the weekend now, have to wait till Monday.
> It takes a few days to respond. I dont think there is a way to order one as dont see one on there site.
> 
> Whats wrong with side panel you have? If it defective and you just bought take it back to the place where you got it.


I dont know if they will respond at all. the side panel is not cut right by the previus owner so i have to fix it or hopefuly replace the side panel with new one and laser cut it for window. i didnt know the side panel wass mestup until i removed the plxiglass window. sorry for my bad english.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> A slight update from mine. Mounted the res directly on top of the pump and a slight change to tubing. I also delidded the CPU with MASSIVE improvements.
> Before delid @ 4.4ghz 1 hour session of OCCT max temp was 80 degrees, after the delidding max temp was 66 degrees.
> 
> Now i'm running at 4.6ghz 24/7 and after about 3 hours of Bioshock max temp recorded was 63 degrees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also drilled in some nutserts to mount the full plexi side panel. I think it looks great


Beautifully done


----------



## steyFR0STIE




----------



## Lauen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steyFR0STIE*


Wow, that is exactly the look I am going for with my R4, but I thought the Sapphire 7970's had blue PCBs? Or are the pics just not very detailed?
and are those cables custom sleeved by you or something you bought?


----------



## steyFR0STIE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lauen*
> 
> Wow, that is exactly the look I am going for with my R4, but I thought the Sapphire 7970's had blue PCBs? Or are the pics just not very detailed?
> and are those cables custom sleeved by you or something you bought?


The pcb is blue I think it's just the way the Phantek towers over it that makes it look black. The cables are silverstone modular cables, I'd like to learn how to sleeve cables but the whole process seems daunting.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

For those that have RL and radiators on top and front ... what thickness have the radiators?


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> For those that have RL and radiators on top and front ... what thickness have the radiators?


Not sure what an RL is? front thickness doesn't matter. You could have an Alphacool 80mm one if you wanted but you might need to check your video card length.

In the top i'm running a 30mm rad BUT because I have Dominator Platinum ram and a z77 Sabertooth board with the plastic molding over it there is no way it would fit even if offset, I drilled out the top of my case to make it fit, its almost hard up against the side of the case... though now I could fit anything in there... I'm thinking to move the XSPC res into the roof and going with the thickest 280mm rad for the front.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Not sure what an RL is? front thickness doesn't matter. You could have an Alphacool 80mm one if you wanted but you might need to check your video card length.
> 
> In the top i'm running a 30mm rad BUT because I have Dominator Platinum ram and a z77 Sabertooth board with the plastic molding over it there is no way it would fit even if offset, I drilled out the top of my case to make it fit, its almost hard up against the side of the case... though now I could fit anything in there... I'm thinking to move the XSPC res into the roof and going with the thickest 280mm rad for the front.


sorry, its a mix of spanish-english RL means Refrigeracion Liquida, in english Liquid Cooling.

I supose that a XSPC EX280 (30mm) on top and a XSPC RX240 on front will be enough.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> sorry, its a mix of spanish-english RL means Refrigeracion Liquida, in english Liquid Cooling.
> 
> I supose that a XSPC EX280 (30mm) on top and a XSPC RX240 on front will be enough.


Be careful with a 280mm up the top, might be too big, everyone that has 240mm have to offset them. I don't think you would get a 280 up the top without modding.

To get the most you can i suggest a slim 240mm up top and the biggest 280mm you can for the front.

I currently have the XSPC RX240 in the front and a Black Ice GT 240 up top. Hope that helps.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Be careful with a 280mm up the top, might be too big, everyone that has 240mm have to offset them. I don't think you would get a 280 up the top without modding.
> 
> To get the most you can i suggest a slim 240mm up top and the biggest 280mm you can for the front.
> 
> I currently have the XSPC RX240 in the front and a Black Ice GT 240 up top. Hope that helps.


If i'm not wrong, people offset rads because of mountingholes, not thickness. If there's enough room above mb (simply measure yourself) it shouldn't be a problem


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steyFR0STIE*


Phanteks look incredible (and have awesome performance to boot...)

I wish I could fit one in my system......D14 on the way, hope I can squeeze that into my system without too much trouble


----------



## Dphi

Here's my build =)

No GFX in loop yet due to card with weird PCB layout!


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dphi*
> 
> Here's my build =)
> 
> No GFX in loop yet due to card with weird PCB layout!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow...


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Thinking about going a bit smaller for a case, in size and in weight. I currently have a CM Storm Trooper, while it is a very good case, it's a bit too bulky, even though I will say, the handle is very nice to have.

For those that have a Arc Midi R2, what is the weight of the computer when it's actually full? Also, is it truly worth every penny? And I guess I should grab a couple more 140mm fans (one for the front and one for the top) if I were to go after one?

Probably one of the best things is that I can just use the bottom HDD cage with the 3 (since I only have 3 internal HDDs). It just looks so damn nice and clean.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Thinking about going a bit smaller for a case, in size and in weight. I currently have a CM Storm Trooper, while it is a very good case, it's a bit too bulky, even though I will say, the handle is very nice to have.
> 
> For those that have a Arc Midi R2, what is the weight of the computer when it's actually full? Also, is it truly worth every penny? And I guess I should grab a couple more 140mm fans (one for the front and one for the top) if I were to go after one?
> 
> Probably one of the best things is that I can just use the bottom HDD cage with the 3 (since I only have 3 internal HDDs). It just looks so damn nice and clean.


Weight varies with what you have inside. Weights aprox 10.7kg empty.
It is worth every penny for under $100.
You wont see any case like it for what it offers.
Dimensions (WxHxD): 230 x 460 (475 with feet) x 515mm


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

There we go, finally got the rig thing in the sig for what kind of set up I currently have.

I'm sure it would be pretty damn heavy with all that in there.


----------



## OmarCCX

I need a GPU, my case looks so dull without one.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Thinking about going a bit smaller for a case, in size and in weight. I currently have a CM Storm Trooper, while it is a very good case, it's a bit too bulky, even though I will say, the handle is very nice to have.
> 
> For those that have a Arc Midi R2, what is the weight of the computer when it's actually full? Also, is it truly worth every penny? And I guess I should grab a couple more 140mm fans (one for the front and one for the top) if I were to go after one?
> 
> Probably one of the best things is that I can just use the bottom HDD cage with the 3 (since I only have 3 internal HDDs). It just looks so damn nice and clean.


I moved from a HAF 932 expecting it to be lighter but no. I ditched my watercooling for a phanteks and now it weighs more than ever!!!
(Just weighed it at 20kg! )

It really is high quality steel with reinforced corners so its still rock solid when you remove the drive cages and the door panels have very little flex so minimal vibrations. The powder coating is thick and there aren't many places where it can get chipped or scraped away easily.

*REALLY COULD DO WITH SOME NICE WHEEL OPTIONS THOUGH!*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I need a GPU, my case looks so dull without one.


Awwwww.... you don't NEED one, and probably shouldn't get one just to fill a whole in your lif... CASE!
that said a Galaxy 560 ti or a 680 with a white PCB would lok grand in there!


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> I moved from a HAF 932 expecting it to be lighter but no. I ditched my watercooling for a phanteks and now it weighs more than ever!!!
> (Just weighed it at 20kg! )
> 
> It really is high quality steel with reinforced corners so its still rock solid when you remove the drive cages and the door panels have very little flex so minimal vibrations. The powder coating is thick and there aren't many places where it can get chipped or scraped away easily.
> 
> *REALLY COULD DO WITH SOME NICE WHEEL OPTIONS THOUGH!*
> Awwwww.... you don't NEED one, and probably shouldn't get one just to fill a whole in your lif... CASE!
> that said a Galaxy 560 ti or a 680 with a white PCB would lok grand in there!


So what you're saying is, even though it weighs quite a bit, the construction and quality are much better than the CM cases (Trooper or your 932)?


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> So what you're saying is, even though it weighs quite a bit, the construction and quality are much better than the CM cases (Trooper or your 932)?


Exactly! Not to mention all the thick sound dampening and the harddrive cages that slot nice and snugly in without rattle.


----------



## DRlZZLE

Had to redo my Arc mini again, this time more radiators and less space











Must say EKWB Titan waterblock works really well , Load temp @ +100mhz OC is 41C


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Exactly! Not to mention all the thick sound dampening and the harddrive cages that slot nice and snugly in without rattle.


Sounds good, now I'm thinking of filling in at least 2 of the 3 extra fan slots in the case with 140mm fans. Which ones would you rather go for, the Fractal 140mm fans (basically the same ones that come with the case) or the NZXT Black/White low noise/high CFM fans that are very similar in color? Here is the link to the NZXT ones (also they would be a bit cheaper and I do have access to Amazon Prime, so $45 free shipping for 3 or $53.97 from Newegg for 3 of the Fractal fans at a slower shipping speed):

http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-FZ-140MM-Cooling-RF-FZ140-02/dp/B007WTCISY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1366740086&sr=1-3&keywords=nzxt+140mm


----------



## mr one

Heavily thinking on arc mini over modded core 1k. is it woth? Had thoughs because of water cooling compactibility


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Heavily thinking on arc mini over modded core 1k. is it woth? Had thoughs because of water cooling compactibility


Core 1000 requires extensive modification for any decent water cooling and has no cable management. The arc mini would be far easier to build with.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Core 1000 requires extensive modification for any decent water cooling and has no cable management. The arc mini would be far easier to build with.


I have already done modification to core 1k to fit 240 rad and some small cable management improvements


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> I have already done modification to core 1k to fit 240 rad and some small cable management improvements


Mind posting some pics? I just started working on a core 1k and would like to see what you've done.


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DBEAU*
> 
> Mind posting some pics? I just started working on a core 1k and would like to see what you've done.


No problem







tomorow ill add some more pics to thread i started about it ( *LINKY*)


----------



## DBEAU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> No problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tomorow ill add some more pics to thread i started about it ( *LINKY*)


Oh right, I'm all over that thread already


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dphi*
> 
> Here's my build =)
> 
> 
> ]


Have same ram setup







killer build man


----------



## gtsteviiee

Is using the 3M Double sided tape for the HDD and SSD a bad idea?


----------



## HingedEmu

For the HDD probably yes... but for the ssd i think it will be just fine.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Is using the 3M Double sided tape for the HDD and SSD a bad idea?


that depends... are you planning to mount your hdd upside down or something? because that will one day end in failure. if you're just using it to prevent it from sliding around the floor or something it should be fine







(basically, don't expect tape to hold anything valuable over time)


----------



## BBEG

I disagree. I've not had any problems with an SSD stuck to the bottom of the 5.25 bay with 3M tape for several months now. Likewise, I've had the same SSD hanging from the SATA connector for just as long. The device is light enough that it's really in no danger of crashing down catastrophically.

HDDs I can't confirm, but with the non-low-profile 3M tape (which is much more secure) I see no reason why you can't mount it vertically or horizontally and have a very reasonable expectation it'll stay put for the long haul. Look up the specs on that stuff; the lock part has some pretty impressive strength. It just takes a bit of work to clean the glue off and remove the tape if you so choose. It will also keep vibrations from reaching the case, which can reduce noise.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Plastic velcro strips are better imo--stronger, drives can be moved / removed, and it allows for better ventilation + vibration dampening.



I've even got 140mm fans mounted with this by the frames. A 120mm fan with thin strips of this stuff on the outside of a case, holding super strong.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Thanks guys, I had these stuff laying around and they are pretty tough so, I thought they would work.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Plastic velcro strips are better imo--stronger, drives can be moved / removed, and it allows for better ventilation + vibration dampening.
> 
> 
> 
> I've even got 140mm fans mounted with this by the frames. A 120mm fan with thin strips of this stuff on the outside of a case, holding super strong.


That is 3M dual lock. It's rebranded but the same stuff. Generally the official 3M stuff is quite a bit stronger and comes in a wider variety of sizes, specs, and tolerances. Dual lock =/= velcro.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> That is 3M dual lock. It's rebranded but the same stuff. Generally the official 3M stuff is quite a bit stronger and comes in a wider variety of sizes, specs, and tolerances. Dual lock =/= velcro.


If you want to argue semantics, it's not rebranded, it has 3M in the bottom right corner of the package on the photo. Scotch is a part of 3M









Also, I called it "plastic velcro" for a reason. It's like velcro, but all plastic.


----------



## drew829

The Define R4 and Core 1000 cases I ordered came in today and I've got to say, the R4 looks even sexier in person










I've just got to wait for the other parts to come in so I can move my computer from my nzxt tempest 410 case to the R4.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drew829*
> 
> and I've got to say, the R4 looks even sexier in person


Indeed! I wasn't sure when I was ordering mine, as promo photos are deceiving, but it was love at first sight when I opened the box


----------



## OmarCCX

I kinda wish mine was black. It looks so out of place in my room.


----------



## Jaren1

Just ordered my R4 today. Super stoked to get it. Should be here Friday.


----------



## virtualnan

Hey guys. I just recently ordered and got my Define R4. I just have one question. One of the external 5.25" bays has a 3.5" converter. Knowing this I tried to put my multi card reader into it but it doesn't fit. Its like the bay is still too big and I can't even put the securing screws on the side, the bay is too big and I can't reach the side of the multi card reader with the screws. Any idea? Is this 3.5" bay for something else?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Is using the 3M Double sided tape for the HDD and SSD a bad idea?


I actually just made a post about this a couple of days ago -- look at that!

SSD would be perfectly fine. HDD though I would prefer to have it in a drive cage first of all to prevent vibration and just to make sure it doesn't fall down.

I have my HDD mounted right underneath the 5.25 bay and I've had no issues. I hear a tiny bit of vibration but that's it. I don't even hear it though unless I put my ear to the front panel.


----------



## ivoryg37

Almost done with my R2. Just have to leak test then I can zip tie all the cables down


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virtualnan*
> 
> Hey guys. I just recently ordered and got my Define R4. I just have one question. One of the external 5.25" bays has a 3.5" converter. Knowing this I tried to put my multi card reader into it but it doesn't fit. Its like the bay is still too big and I can't even put the securing screws on the side, the bay is too big and I can't reach the side of the multi card reader with the screws. Any idea? Is this 3.5" bay for something else?


Really! Mine didn't come with one of those :'(


----------



## blue-cat

So the signature tagline in the original post doesnt weork anymore here's a basic one

Code:



Code:


[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/]Fractal Design Case Club[/URL]


----------



## HingedEmu

anyone here have an R4 and can help me? :/

i removed the top HDD cage, and his mounts at the top (connected to the 5.5" bay), but i cant get the bottom mount out (connected to the bottom HDD cage) simply because its screwed pretty hard in there.
did anyone else had this problem? how can i take it out?


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HingedEmu*
> 
> anyone here have an R4 and can help me? :/
> 
> i removed the top HDD cage, and his mounts at the top (connected to the 5.5" bay), but i cant get the bottom mount out (connected to the bottom HDD cage) simply because its screwed pretty hard in there.
> did anyone else had this problem? how can i take it out?


I'd say buy a better screw driver. I have a couple of nice chunky bladed screwdrivers that I can really get more torque with than anything else. The blades on the phillips head have to be nice and chunky to get good contact.
Something that looks like this should work.


----------



## Lutfij

Nice work with the tubing and layout there! ivory


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drew829*
> 
> The Define R4 and Core 1000 cases I ordered came in today and I've got to say, the R4 looks even sexier in person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've just got to wait for the other parts to come in so I can move my computer from my nzxt tempest 410 case to the R4.


one for a gamingrig and one for a htpc?







using the c1k myself, it's okey with some modding








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> I'd say buy a better screw driver. I have a couple of nice chunky bladed screwdrivers that I can really get more torque with than anything else. The blades on the phillips head have to be nice and chunky to get good contact.
> Something that looks like this should work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i can't even begin to tell how important a proper screwdriver is... got a set from my dad christmas 2011, best gift ever







actually beats cash...


----------



## drew829

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> one for a gamingrig and one for a htpc?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> using the c1k myself, it's okey with some modding


Actually, the Core 1000 was for my parents. They needed a new computer and asked me to build one for them.


----------



## mshaddix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> i can't even begin to tell how important a proper screwdriver is... got a set from my dad christmas 2011, best gift ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> actually beats cash...


truth


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Noctua D14 arrived yesterday. (upgrade from Megahalems --> H70 + IB)
> 
> _*obligatory ****-quality cell phone picture*_
> 
> 
> 
> _REAL_ picture this weekend


You go through CPU coolers like my ex went through purses...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> You go through CPU coolers like my ex went through purses...


This time I had a valid reason _*cough*_ .... went from a 2600k to a 3770k last month...IB is a bit warmer.

_Cooler evolution:_
Hyper 212+ *->* CM V8 *->* H60 *->* H70 *->* H100 *->* Megahalems *->* (back to) H70 *->* (and finally) Noctua D14

_I have a disease, and the only cure... is more heatsink_


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> This time I had a valid reason _*cough*_ .... went from a 2600k to a 3770k last month...IB is a bit warmer.
> 
> _Cooler evolution:_
> Hyper 212+ *->* CM V8 *->* H60 *->* H70 *->* H100 *->* Megahalems *->* (back to) H70 *->* (and finally) Noctua D14
> 
> _I have a disease, and the only cure... is more heatsink_


I would never go through coolers like that, not because I wouldn't want to, but because I am laaaaaaaaaaaazy haha


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I would never go through coolers like that, not because I wouldn't want to, but because I am laaaaaaaaaaaazy haha


Yeah... it takes me ages to change coolers, although in fairness the last 2 was to and from water cooling so a big life decision ^_^


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Noctua D14 arrived yesterday. (upgrade from Megahalems --> H70 + IB)
> 
> _*obligatory ****-quality cell phone picture*_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _REAL_ picture this weekend


Nice set up! I like the lighting in There.


----------



## Jordan8

Hey guys, ive hit a problem i don't know what to do with my 2tb HDD i need some ideas where i can put it, Im in the middle on building my first water cooling loop

Im still waiting on some parts.

Any help would be appreciated


----------



## OmarCCX

You could take off the bottom fan, and put the small HDD drive cage there. If the holes don't give you enough room for the PSU cables you can always make some new ones.


----------



## ivoryg37

Velcro it to the back cover of the case


----------



## Jordan8

Yeah i worked it out cheers for the ideas

This is what i ended up doing


----------



## winterrr

My new Midi R2!


----------



## ivoryg37




----------



## drew829

I've got a question. More of the parts I've ordered came in today (Still waiting on the fan controller and blu-ray burner.) including the Xigmatech Dark Knight Night Hawk Cooler. Now I normally do the grain of rice method, I don't remember where I heard this but someone said that Xigmatech recommends that you put a small dot of thermal paste on each of the heat pipes on the cooler but doesn't say anything about it in the user's manual.


Is it safe for me to still use the grain of rice or do I need to put the thermal paste one cpu cooler first?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drew829*
> 
> Now I normally do the grain of rice method, I don't remember where I heard this but someone said that Xigmatech recommends that you put a small dot of thermal paste on each of the heat pipes on the cooler but doesn't say anything about it in the user's manual.


This should work best:


----------



## ceaze one

Looks like Newegg is having a sale on some Fractal cases untill 5/2:

*Define R4 Black Pearl @ $80/shipped:*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020

*Define XL R2 Black Pearl @ $95/shipped:*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352029

*Fractal Design Core 3000 @ $55/shipped:*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352026

I'm really thinking about getting that R4! $80 is a damn good price.


----------



## drew829

Thanks for the help adridu. Here's some pics for you guys.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Is it fine to have the R4 case wires (Power/LED/Reset/) Under the motherboard? The wires are bothering me so much that, in order for me to completely or almost hide it was to slap it right under the motherboard.


----------



## Stuartambient

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Looks like Newegg is having a sale on some Fractal cases untill 5/2:
> 
> *Define R4 Black Pearl @ $80/shipped:*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020
> 
> *Define XL R2 Black Pearl @ $95/shipped:*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352029
> 
> *Fractal Design Core 3000 @ $55/shipped:*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352026
> 
> I'm really thinking about getting that R4! $80 is a damn good price.


The first two are not showing those prices.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Is it fine to have the R4 case wires (Power/LED/Reset/) Under the motherboard? The wires are bothering me so much that, in order for me to completely or almost hide it was to slap it right under the motherboard.


Yes, that's totally fine. Do whatever you have to tidy it up.


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuartambient*
> 
> The first two are not showing those prices.


You have to apply the coupons. Newegg does that a lot.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Yes, that's totally fine. Do whatever you have to tidy it up.


Thank you.

I guess, I can be in the club now. I've settled with the R4.

Here's my current build, still waiting for my sleeves and graphics card:


----------



## adridu59

^ Pretty nice, I'd remove the upper HDD cage for improved airflow. What fans are on the H100i?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> I guess, I can be in the club now. I've settled with the R4.
> 
> Here's my current build, still waiting for my sleeves and graphics card:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean cable management. Where's the GPU and what cam are you using?


----------



## Jaren1

Got my case yesterday and got it all together. I love it. I can definitely tell that it was made with quality.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jarenmorrisphotography/8686401470/
IMG_4502 by awdftw!, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jarenmorrisphotography/8686393756/
IMG_4511 by awdftw!, on Flickr

Question, if I have no fans for the top would it still be beneficial to take the covers off so hot air can vent out, or should I leave them on. Right now I have the two 140mm fractal fans in the front and one 120mm fan in the back as exhaust that is attached to my H55


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> Question, if I have no fans for the top would it still be beneficial to take the covers off so hot air can vent out, or should I leave them on. Right now I have the two 140mm fractal fans in the front and one 120mm fan in the back as exhaust that is attached to my H55


Depends. If you don't care about the sound escaping through the top, and don't mind the small amount of dust that could get into your system, then sure. i would suggest only removing the one further back though.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Clean cable management. Where's the GPU and what cam are you using?


My GPU is on RMA right now, and I'm using a Canon 500D/T1i with Canon 50mm f/1.4


----------



## Stuartambient

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> You have to apply the coupons. Newegg does that a lot.


Cool. Thanks for pointing that out.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> ^ Pretty nice, I'd remove the upper HDD cage for improved airflow. What fans are on the H100i?


They're stock fans that came with the H100i. I will remove them as soon as I get my GPU and extensions.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> Got my case yesterday and got it all together. I love it. I can definitely tell that it was made with quality.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/jarenmorrisphotography/8686401470/


Good sir, tell us about that little bracket on your graphics card. My last Twin Frozr card did not have such a thing and I would love to get one to help the sag on my current (and future) cards.


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Good sir, tell us about that little bracket on your graphics card. My last Twin Frozr card did not have such a thing and I would love to get one to help the sag on my current (and future) cards.


That actually came with my video card. So im not sure if its something you could pick up


----------



## BBEG

I thought as much. I just emailed MSI about it; hopefully they'll let me buy a few from them. It doesn't sound like Asus is wiling to work with me or even communicate back to me regarding their DCII cooler's support bracket.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> I thought as much. I just emailed MSI about it; hopefully they'll let me buy a few from them. It doesn't sound like Asus is wiling to work with me or even communicate back to me regarding their DCII cooler's support bracket.


I don't think they'll take the effort to fork a bracket from the factory to send it directly...


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Good sir, tell us about that little bracket on your graphics card. My last Twin Frozr card did not have such a thing and I would love to get one to help the sag on my current (and future) cards.


It's the same story with many cards....

The cooler comes out (much as the case was with the GTX 570/580 DCII) that card sags as a result, the next generation has a support bracket.

It's a shame these vendors don't sell these separately, but I imagine that it would give the image that something may be wrong with an older rendition of a card or cooler, so it's not sold separately, because "there's nothing wrong with product ________" so it doesn't need a "fix" in the form of a support bracket.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Almost done with my R2. Just have to leak test then I can zip tie all the cables down


Can you picture in detail and higher resolution how you front rad is mounted as I'm thinking of doing the same mod.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Almost done with my R2. Just have to leak test then I can zip tie all the cables down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you picture in detail and higher resolution how you front rad is mounted as I'm thinking of doing the same mod.
Click to expand...

Front rad is mounted on the fans. Fans mounted on the front panel.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Front rad is mounted on the fans. Fans mounted on the front panel.


Is it ver2? Mine is ver1 so you can't mount the rad like that due to fan clips. That's why I asked.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I don't think they'll take the effort to fork a bracket from the factory to send it directly...


Some outfits do, some don't. Plenty of companies out there send you "spare" or "replacement" parts for free or for minimal charge. These types of parts are made in batches, so there's a bin somewhere with a bunch of 'em. Whether they're available or made in enough numbers to leave the factory not in a retail box... that's the $64 question.

[email protected], I suspect you're right. It's such an easy thing to fab though, provided you have access to the tools and materials (like these manufacturers do). It's frustrating knowing that there's an easy fix available but the folks making that easy fix aren't releasing it out into the wild through a vendor.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Front rad is mounted on the fans. Fans mounted on the front panel.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it ver2? Mine is ver1 so you can't mount the rad like that due to fan clips. That's why I asked.
Click to expand...

He said it was the R2.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Here's my current build, still waiting for my sleeves and graphics card:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great! Can we get a picture of the back please? I need some ideas on how to tidy up my cables a little better.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Looks great! Can we get a picture of the back please? I need some ideas on how to tidy up my cables a little better.


All I can tell you is that it is not zip-tied at all, it's EXTREMELY messy.. But, sure when I disassemble my pc later on.


----------



## DRlZZLE

More pictures of my Arc Mini


----------



## K4IKEN

Looks dope DRIZZLE


----------



## [email protected]

Looks killer!


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Here's my Fractal Node 304. It's part of my ESXi ITX Whitebox build for my test network. When I get the RAID card I'm going to tidy up the cables which is going to be a pain. I do love this case though. I bought it because it was one of the few, true SFF cases that supported 6+ HDDs. I was presently surprised by how quiet it with the fans on high. Great craftsmanship from Fractal Designs.

Case: Fractal Designs Node 304
CPU: Intel Xeon E3-1245 V2 Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77N-WIFI ITX
Memory: Patriot Viper 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600
Heatsink: Stock
Boot Drive and Primary VM storage: Samsung 840 250GB SSD
Additional VM Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB (Three more 2TB and two 1TB waiting for RAID card)
PSU: PC Power and Cooling Silencer MK III 400W Modular 80PLUS Bronze

Future Upgrade: LSI MegaRAID 9240-8i


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Is it ver2? Mine is ver1 so you can't mount the rad like that due to fan clips. That's why I asked.


I have the V2 which allows you to mount it with your fans. You do have to buy longer screws though. The stock screws that came with my XSPC EX280 was too short. I had to get some screws about a quarter of an inch longer to make it work.

For the V1 the best way to mount a radiator in the front is with a radiator stand screwed to the bottom of the case sorta like this.


If not you could drill holes in the front for your radiator.


----------



## vangsfreaken

could anyone with the node 304 show it next to some other case? i'm having trouble picturing the size only based on specs


----------



## MiiX

I like to watch videos about people messing around with it


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> could anyone with the node 304 show it next to some other case? i'm having trouble picturing the size only based on specs


Here it is with a Thermaltake Level 10 GTS Mid Tower. It's a little bit smaller than a Shuttle if you have ever seen one of those in person.


----------



## Hogwasher

here is how it stands now.

almost done but my video cards keep overheating. tried reseating the universal block with no luck.(no overclock)

I've ordered full cover blocks so we'll see if that helps


----------



## Lutfij

The answer to that problem is not the GPU chip mate - its the surrounding parts where the VRM's and mosfets's are located. you seem to have a good layout interms of rad space but there aren't any fans aiding your cards as they are missing the majority of the love.

In fact there isn't any air flow over the GPU heatsinks uch: maybe add a rear fan to help with airflow or maybe just add two fans for a push pull config where teh second set of fans past teh rad are feeding some air past the GPU's though they WILL be warmer than the ambient but that's many times better than no airflow.

^ My 2 cents.

* By overheating ...do you mean like windows shutting down kind of overheating?


----------



## Hogwasher

oh all my test have been done with the case open, so plenty of fresh air is coming in.

and yes overheating as in windows shutting down. or stalling


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> Here it is with a Thermaltake Level 10 GTS Mid Tower. It's a little bit smaller than a Shuttle if you have ever seen one of those in person.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


ah, thank you


----------



## ZeVo

Has anyone ordered a Midi V1 window panel through CostCaptian? Place looks sketchy..


----------



## crockerfilm

This is my Define R4 Build! 3570k and GTX 670


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> 
> 
> here is how it stands now.
> 
> almost done but my video cards keep overheating. tried reseating the universal block with no luck.(no overclock)
> 
> I've ordered full cover blocks so we'll see if that helps


I suggest going for Push/pull on both rads. Dont know what rads you have and fpi is used on them?
Which fans are you using on both rads in push or pull?


----------



## jeffblute

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> 
> 
> here is how it stands now.
> 
> almost done but my video cards keep overheating. tried reseating the universal block with no luck.(no overclock)
> 
> I've ordered full cover blocks so we'll see if that helps


I really like the build so far









I agree with your idea of going with fullcover blocks, it should help out quite a bit. Also I am assuming your rads are both pushing into the case? It might be tight but you should throw a fan in the rear to help pull that heat out OR move the fans on the top to PUSH heat out of the case.
Also I would upgrade your CPU block in the future to a Raystorm or other newer block it will help with your water flow. that block is kinda restrictive.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Since I can't find a reference, can someone tell me the dimensions of the CPU Backplate hole (or just measure for me) on an Arc Midi R2 (I think it's the same on the Define R4)? Trying to give some sort of reference size to my current case to see if I can easily take in and out my A70 if need be.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Since I can't find a reference, can someone tell me the dimensions of the CPU Backplate hole (or just measure for me) on an Arc Midi R2 (I think it's the same on the Define R4)? Trying to give some sort of reference size to my current case to see if I can easily take in and out my A70 if need be.


You should be fine. here is an image to get a reference on size.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Okay thanks. I ask because the CPU backplate hole on the Trooper is pretty damn big haha.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

It is hard to really tell. Mobo cpu placement is different and cut out placement too from other cases.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

If the insides and CPU hole is the same as the Define R4, I found a picture on here of someone showing the back of the motherboard with an aftermarket cooler and their motherboard. Found out their motherboard, pulled up the overhead pics on Newegg to compare it to mine, and found out my CPU placement on the board is _just_ slightly to the right and down (a few millimeters at most) compared to the other guy. And I can say I should be able to fit it without a problem (and be able to take it out as well... hopefully haha).


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> oh all my test have been done with the case open, so plenty of fresh air is coming in.
> 
> and yes overheating as in windows shutting down. or stalling


There's a big difference between an open case and having a fan blow air over the card. If you have a spare fan you can try positioning it at the grphics cards with the case open and see if they overheat. What ram cooling are you using?


----------



## Hogwasher

Someone stated I am using a incompatible block, so it's not making good contact. When my full cover block arrives I should be good to go


----------



## colforbin

Finally put my GPU into my loop. WC is highly addictive.


----------



## Jaren1

Made a "floor" for my case to cover my PSU and the empty space.


----------



## Phishy714

How were you able to do it?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> Made a "floor" for my case to cover my PSU and the empty space.


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> How were you able to do it?


I just too a piece of acrylic and cut it to size. Wrapped it in CF vinyl and then set it on the PSU. Im gonna get some plastic velcro to hold it on there. that way its easily removable if needed


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Phishy714*
> 
> How were you able to do it?
> 
> 
> 
> I just too a piece of acrylic and cut it to size. Wrapped it in CF vinyl and then set it on the PSU. Im gonna get some plastic velcro to hold it on there. that way its easily removable if needed
Click to expand...

Is that the Arc Midi R2? Can you take side panel off so I can see inside. That bottom plate is nice and like the idea.


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's little update I made to my rig.

Opposite side panel window and venting bracket.


More on that in the build log


----------



## HingedEmu

is anyone here interested to exchange black HDD trays and pci grills with my white ones?


----------



## JoshHunter

Does anybody know if it's possible to fit a 140mm radiator in the rear fan slot of the Define R4?


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HingedEmu*
> 
> is anyone here interested to exchange black HDD trays and pci grills with my white ones?


Maybe, but I think it might look weird. I wish Fractal would sell spares so I could buy some white ones and see what they look like painted orange


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Is that the Arc Midi R2? Can you take side panel off so I can see inside. That bottom plate is nice and like the idea.


I'll get a picture tonight. It's a Define R4


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshHunter*
> 
> Does anybody know if it's possible to fit a 140mm radiator in the rear fan slot of the Define R4?


I know the kraken x40 fits there with limited orientation. I thought that was going to be the only place I could fit it as it definitely doesn't fit up top, but I wanted to use it as intake so I put mine in the front uppermost spot with very little modification. I can't open the front completely and pull out the fan assembly without removing the radiator but I can open it enough to slide the dust filter out for cleaning.


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HingedEmu*
> 
> is anyone here interested to exchange black HDD trays and pci grills with my white ones?


I think the most headache free and quickest thing to do would be to paint yours the color you would want them to be.


----------



## HingedEmu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> I think the most headache free and quickest thing to do would be to paint yours the color you would want them to be.


The problem is that i want it black and i want the color to be the same as the original...


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> I think the most headache free and quickest thing to do would be to paint yours the color you would want them to be.


Another point is that they fit pretty snugly already so a layer or two of paint, even if its thin, might quickly scratch off if you swap HDDs alot.


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Another point is that they fit pretty snugly already so a layer or two of paint, even if its thin, might quickly scratch off if you swap HDDs alot.


Yes, I can respect that reasoning.


----------



## JoshHunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know the kraken x40 fits there with limited orientation. I thought that was going to be the only place I could fit it as it definitely doesn't fit up top, but I wanted to use it as intake so I put mine in the front uppermost spot with very little modification. I can't open the front completely and pull out the fan assembly without removing the radiator but I can open it enough to slide the dust filter out for cleaning.


Cool, thank you! May I ask what you mean by limited orientation? Which side are the ports on? It seems to me they will only fit at the top, but I could be wrong.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Maybe, but I think it might look weird. I wish Fractal would sell spares so I could buy some white ones and see what they look like painted orange


To get *some* idea, have a look at Cougar Evolution in white:



http://www.cougar-world.com/us/products/pc_case/evolution_galaxy.html


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Is that the Arc Midi R2? Can you take side panel off so I can see inside. That bottom plate is nice and like the idea.


Here is the pic that you asked for earlier. As you can see its just resting on top of the PSU. Super easy quick mod to clean it up some.


----------



## ZeVo

In case anyone was wondering, the R2 side panel can fit on the original Midi (I remember someone telling me it couldn't due to different threading):
Quote:


> Hello ZeVo,
> 
> The side panel for the Arc Midi R2 will fit on the original Arc Midi. The reason you cannot find any side panels for the Arc Midi R2 is because we do not sell them. We do however sell a windowed side panel for the Define R4 and Arc Midi R1. It is basically the same thing except the window is not smoked like it is on the Arc Midi R2. It is just clear. The only sites that currently have the windowed side panel for the Define R4 and Arc Midi R1 are NCIX.com and NCIX.us. They are a Canadian retailer that sells to the US.
> 
> Should you have any other questions or concerns, please don't hesitate to call or email.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Sean


Now if only Walmart got that R2 window back on sale for $20 as I prefer the smoked over clear.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Thank you. I might have to make a different kind to cover the HDD cage, as I'll have to move it closer to PSU to make clearance for the rad up front.
Gives me ideas.

The smoked side window is sweet. Not too dark or light. Enough to give a slight darkness to LED lighting.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I suggest going for Push/pull on both rads. Dont know what rads you have and fpi is used on them?
> Which fans are you using on both rads in push or pull?


I'm pushing air on the monsta front rad, and pulling on the top thick rad. Fans are gentle typhoons

but I'm not going to go push pull. want a quite build. But the other users where right the block I am using is incompatible with my cards. I've ordered one full block. Will order second when funds allow


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> I'm pushing air on the monsta front rad, and pulling on the top thick rad. Fans are gentle typhoons
> 
> but I'm not going to go push pull. want a quite build. But the other users where right the block I am using is incompatible with my cards. I've ordered one full block. Will order second when funds allow


You have a reference model for your GPU? You dont state which version you have?
Not all waterblocks are compatible.


----------



## Lutfij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> oh all my test have been done with the case open, so plenty of fresh air is coming in.
> 
> and yes overheating as in windows shutting down. or stalling


I mean't forcing air over the copper mosfet heatsinks not the amount of cool air your rads are being fed.

I noticed you have an AMD card - the GPU chip design isn't the same as an Nvidia chip as the Nvidia's previous(or initial) iterations almost certainly had an IHS on the chip and just recently the block makers have taken this into account and are designing their blocks to work alongside the IHS.

If I were you I'd double check the claims of the universal block being incompatible with the GPU - getting a full cover block to notice the same problem would warrant a gun to the head







get my drift mate? It might also be that you're mounting isn't secure and the nature of the tubing(ie the flex) is causing a slight gap to form on the hotside of the GPU.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You have a reference model for your GPU? You dont state which version you have?
> Not all waterblocks are compatible.


yes, it's listed on their website as compatible


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> I mean't forcing air over the copper mosfet heatsinks not the amount of cool air your rads are being fed.
> 
> I noticed you have an AMD card - the GPU chip design isn't the same as an Nvidia chip as the Nvidia's previous(or initial) iterations almost certainly had an IHS on the chip and just recently the block makers have taken this into account and are designing their blocks to work alongside the IHS.
> 
> If I were you I'd double check the claims of the universal block being incompatible with the GPU - getting a full cover block to notice the same problem would warrant a gun to the head
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> get my drift mate? It might also be that you're mounting isn't secure and the nature of the tubing(ie the flex) is causing a slight gap to form on the hotside of the GPU.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm67*
> 
> Normal MCW82 will not work with that card, you need MCW82-7900 which has a base like this :


it was just a simple mistake on my part. just a small detail that I over looked. Already had on universal so I ordered a 2nd. Probably should have tested fitted first. caulk it up to a $50 lesson


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You have a reference model for your GPU? You dont state which version you have?
> Not all waterblocks are compatible.
> 
> 
> 
> yes, it's listed on their website as compatible
Click to expand...

Which model do you actually have and which GPU block.
Some is visual based on images used, some is physical which is direct testing.
Sometimes manufactures change the original specs without telling anyone.


----------



## Hogwasher

http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13590_Alphacool-NexXxoS-ATXP-ATI-7970-50-series-V2---polished-stainless-steel---black.html

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131478

Supposedly able to return the block as long as it's still in it's shrink wrap. But it was listed on alphacool list of compatible cards


----------



## mr one

Can i jump in with my modded core 1k?


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mr one*
> 
> Can i jump in with my modded core 1k?


The cuts could look nicer, great job though. One question, what did yo do with the front? Is it a mesh? Custom?


----------



## BBEG

Gotta get a picture of that with the side panel off. The reflection is messing with me; I don't really know what I'm seeing beyond the window. Inquirin' minds gotta know!


----------



## mr one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> The cuts could look nicer, great job though. One question, what did yo do with the front? Is it a mesh? Custom?


laser cut acrylic piece painted and also added a dust filter,







yeah as about cuts i wasnt working with so thin metal so kinda messed up


----------



## grazz1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> 
> 
> here is how it stands now.
> 
> almost done but my video cards keep overheating. tried reseating the universal block with no luck.(no overclock)
> 
> I've ordered full cover blocks so we'll see if that helps


Hiya bud how did you fix the radiator to the front of your case isit just bolted onto the fans that sit in the front?


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grazz1984*
> 
> Hiya bud how did you fix the radiator to the front of your case isit just bolted onto the fans that sit in the front?


yeah the rad just bolts to the fans


----------



## JoshHunter

Do you realise your PSU is sucking up all the super hot exhaust air from your rads? Or are the fans on your rads in a pull config?


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JoshHunter*
> 
> Do you realise your PSU is sucking up all the super hot exhaust air from your rads? Or are the fans on your rads in a pull config?


are you talking about my build? Not sure since you didn't quote anyone?

If you are, top rad is pull front rad is push. And super hot?! Not exactly

Is it acting as a exhaust fan? yes. It also looks cleaner as well.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I have the V2 which allows you to mount it with your fans. You do have to buy longer screws though. The stock screws that came with my XSPC EX280 was too short. I had to get some screws about a quarter of an inch longer to make it work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> For the V1 the best way to mount a radiator in the front is with a radiator stand screwed to the bottom of the case sorta like this.
> 
> 
> If not you could drill holes in the front for your radiator.


Thanks for the tips, but I don't want to drill more holes in the case. I'm thinking of doing a double 280 setup in top and bottom presuming that the bottom one will fit in the 140mm fan holes without hitting the drive cage.


----------



## DrWaikiki

Hey Fractal Guys out there,

i have 2 questions about the Arc Mini. I want to put a Black Ice SR1 240mm in the front of the case. But there are 2 HDD-Cages.
I know, that you can remove the upper one. But what's about the lower one? Can you remove this cage?

One more question, will there be also a window kit for the Arc mini?

Thanks

~DocWaikiki ( sorry for my bad english







)


----------



## gdubc

Just a heads up that Newegg is going to have the arc MIDI r2 for $69.99 at 10 o'clock Pacific time for the daily deal to anyone who wants a good case for cheap!


----------



## BKinn

Here is what I have so far... I think I'm going to cover the PSU with some sort of wrap and get two more blue vortex fans for the front so they all match. Any other suggestions? I came from a prodigy to this so I'm still not used to having a mid tower aha.


----------



## athlon 64

Looking good!


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just a heads up that Newegg is going to have the arc MIDI r2 for $69.99 at 10 o'clock Pacific time for the daily deal to anyone who wants a good case for cheap!


PM tonight or AM tomorrow?


----------



## Seid Dark

Does anyone have experience installing Corsair AF140 fans to front of Arc Midi V1? AF140 is different looking than normal fans so I'd like to know if it fits in the fan clips without problems. I'm planning to replace all Fractal fans.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Does anyone have experience installing Corsair AF140 fans to front of Arc Midi V1? AF140 is different looking than normal fans so I'd like to know if it fits in the fan clips without problems. I'm planning to replace all Fractal fans.


Yeah they fit fine. Had them in my Arc Midi before I swapped over to the R4.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> PM tonight or AM tomorrow?


it was 10 a.m. this morning.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Does anyone have experience installing Corsair AF140 fans to front of Arc Midi V1? AF140 is different looking than normal fans so I'd like to know if it fits in the fan clips without problems. I'm planning to replace all Fractal fans.


Yup...they fit without a problem







...pics on my sig rig


----------



## Seid Dark

^^ Thanks for the info both of you









Just bought 3 AF140's. Very expensive around here but should be a good upgrade over stock Fractals.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> ^^ Thanks for the info both of you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just bought 3 AF140's. Very expensive around here but should be a good upgrade over stock Fractals.


No problem







The only thing I didn't like about the AF140's is that the power cable is kinda short :/


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Does anyone have experience installing Corsair AF140 fans to front of Arc Midi V1? AF140 is different looking than normal fans so I'd like to know if it fits in the fan clips without problems. I'm planning to replace all Fractal fans.


AF140's fit just fine! (see sig rig)


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

For the Arc Midi R2, would these fans really look out of place?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835345056

I would put one on the top, front and 120mm on the bottom.

Or would it be better to just go for these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WTCISY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


----------



## malvor

Guys, I just placed an order for the Define R4.
What sort of case fans would you recommend to improve the R4's mediocre cooling performance ?
While gaming, I expect the noise from case fans to get drowned by my GPU.


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Congrats on the order, malvor. I just ordered the Arc Midi R2 since it's on sale. Got some NZXT FZ series fans with it







.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malvor*
> 
> Guys, I just placed an order for the Define R4.
> What sort of case fans would you recommend to improve the R4's mediocre cooling performance ?
> While gaming, I expect the noise from case fans to get drowned by my GPU.


The R2 Silent fans are really not bad for case airflow. I don't know where this misinformation started, but the 140mm fans are quite decent for stock fans. Try them first at 5V and 7V.


----------



## newone757

I use 4 of them in my R4 and have no issues. I knew there was better but I was going for a nice uniform clean look throughout


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrWaikiki*
> 
> Hey Fractal Guys out there,
> 
> i have 2 questions about the Arc Mini. I want to put a Black Ice SR1 240mm in the front of the case. But there are 2 HDD-Cages.
> I know, that you can remove the upper one. But what's about the lower one? Can you remove this cage?
> 
> One more question, will there be also a window kit for the Arc mini?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ~DocWaikiki ( sorry for my bad english
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Hi there Doc.

The upper HDD cage is user removable, just a few screws. The lower cage can be removed but requires rivets to be drilled out. It is a mod, but not difficult or time consuming at all and I wouldn't be put off doing it.









Also, Fractal have released a side panel with a window for the Midi, but not yet for the Mini. If you've got a jigsaw, that's another fairly easy mod, and I'm sure you can buy another side panel if you screw it up.


----------



## diarh34

Just went through about 75% of this thread over the last couple weeks, decided to post my new arc midi r2, came from a lian li to this case that I loved but it was time for a more "modern" case with more cable routing options and bigger fans. So here it is.





I am really happy with this case, always wanted one since the first ones came out. I really wanted to do the front instake mod so the fans are more visable but it seems like the holes in the mesh are too small to see anything even after taking the filter out. Any ideas?

specs are
3560k + @ 4.6ghz
Corsair Vengeance 8GB
evga gtx 660 sc (oc'd)
Asus P8Z77-V
Toshiba 1TB
Samsung SSD RBX Series 128GB
Hyper 212+ w/ 2x TY-141


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diarh34*
> 
> Just went through about 75% of this thread over the last couple weeks, decided to post my new arc midi r2, came from a lian li to this case that I loved but it was time for a more "modern" case with more cable routing options and bigger fans. So here it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am really happy with this case, always wanted one since the first ones came out. I really wanted to do the front instake mod so the fans are more visable but it seems like the holes in the mesh are too small to see anything even after taking the filter out. Any ideas?
> 
> specs are
> 3560k + @ 4.6ghz
> Corsair Vengeance 8GB
> evga gtx 660 sc (oc'd)
> Asus P8Z77-V
> Toshiba 1TB
> Samsung SSD RBX Series 128GB
> Hyper 212+ w/ 2x TY-141


Hey mate, nice tidy build.

In regards to the front, perhaps consider removing the front grille altogether. You could replace the mesh with another type that is less obstructive. Then you could get a 280 rad mount installed behind the new mesh and attach the fans to it. That way you would be able to see the fans better without reducing cooling.


----------



## diarh34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Lolburger*
> 
> Hey mate, nice tidy build.
> 
> In regards to the front, perhaps consider removing the front grille altogether. You could replace the mesh with another type that is less obstructive. Then you could get a 280 rad mount installed behind the new mesh and attach the fans to it. That way you would be able to see the fans better without reducing cooling.


Thanks for the advice, I was thinking about getting some modders mesh from mnpc with 9/32 holes.


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diarh34*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Captain Lolburger*
> 
> Hey mate, nice tidy build.
> 
> In regards to the front, perhaps consider removing the front grille altogether. You could replace the mesh with another type that is less obstructive. Then you could get a 280 rad mount installed behind the new mesh and attach the fans to it. That way you would be able to see the fans better without reducing cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice, I was thinking about getting some modders mesh from mnpc with 9/32 holes.
Click to expand...

I bought some of that to cover holes I cut for ventilation in the cable side door. It matches the existing mesh well, so it will look good with the top of the case.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolidSnakeUS*
> 
> Congrats on the order, malvor. I just ordered the Arc Midi R2 since it's on sale. Got some NZXT FZ series fans with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You will have to post some pictures when you can. I almost got that case as well (even tho i do not need it) because it was such a good deal. I just got a define r4 for myself and a c70 for my son so my girl would've killed me if another case showed up on the step!


----------



## OzMan84

I am about to commence my build with the Fractual Design R4. I noticed in someones build they had brackets for the Stealth SSD, is there somewhere I can purchase some?


----------



## diarh34

few more pictures to show the lights, man my camera blows


----------



## bojsha

My Mini, just to make sore I have the case, its in working it out stage







lol

Guys, can I mount this RAD http://www.xs-pc.com/products/radiators/ex-series-radiators/ex360-crossflow-radiator/ in the top of Arc Mini? I wonna make sure it fits before I order the RAD


----------



## Captain Lolburger

The rad will physically fit inside the case, but the bigger question is will it fit around the other components in there, most importantly the motherboard and rear fan. Even it if will fit, you will need to drill holes in the top of the case to mount it (under the mesh though, so you won't see it), as the Mini only fits a 240 without modding. The best thing to do would be to make a cardboard or paper mock up of the rad (121mm x 35.5mm x 410mm, according to the website) and test it with other gear installed.

Getting a 360 in my Midi was tricky and it is a tight squeeze. I would be very surprised if one fit in a Mini. Look at my signature photo and see how tight the fit is in my case, which is 30mm longer and 20mm wider than yours. I also couldn't mount it in the middle of the case, it had to be pushed right to the side so that it wouldn't touch the heatsinks along the top of my motherboard.


----------



## bojsha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Lolburger*
> 
> The rad will physically fit inside the case, but the bigger question is will it fit around the other components in there, most importantly the motherboard and rear fan. Even it if will fit, you will need to drill holes in the top of the case to mount it (under the mesh though, so you won't see it), as the Mini only fits a 240 without modding. The best thing to do would be to make a cardboard or paper mock up of the rad (121mm x 35.5mm x 410mm, according to the website) and test it with other gear installed.
> 
> Getting a 360 in my Midi was tricky and it is a tight squeeze. I would be very surprised if one fit in a Mini. Look at my signature photo and see how tight the fit is in my case, which is 30mm longer and 20mm wider than yours. I also couldn't mount it in the middle of the case, it had to be pushed right to the side so that it wouldn't touch the heatsinks along the top of my motherboard.


ok, I will make cardboard mock up of the RAD but from what i can see from your signature photo it is hardly gonna fit in the Mini. btw, setup whould be, Swiftech Apogee Drive II + res + 280 or 360 RAD + GPU WB.


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bojsha*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Captain Lolburger*
> 
> The rad will physically fit inside the case, but the bigger question is will it fit around the other components in there, most importantly the motherboard and rear fan. Even it if will fit, you will need to drill holes in the top of the case to mount it (under the mesh though, so you won't see it), as the Mini only fits a 240 without modding. The best thing to do would be to make a cardboard or paper mock up of the rad (121mm x 35.5mm x 410mm, according to the website) and test it with other gear installed.
> 
> Getting a 360 in my Midi was tricky and it is a tight squeeze. I would be very surprised if one fit in a Mini. Look at my signature photo and see how tight the fit is in my case, which is 30mm longer and 20mm wider than yours. I also couldn't mount it in the middle of the case, it had to be pushed right to the side so that it wouldn't touch the heatsinks along the top of my motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> ok, I will make cardboard mock up of the RAD but from what i can see from your signature photo it is hardly gonna fit in the Mini. btw, setup whould be, Swiftech Apogee Drive II + res + 280 or 360 RAD + GPU WB.
Click to expand...

I think you should investigate using a 240 up top and then another 120 in either the front, bottom or rear. Another solution is to compromise water cooling the GPU and just cool the CPU, that way you can get away with just a single 240 rad.


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Actually, I did some research myself and saw these two examples. Turns out you can cram a lot in there!


----------



## bojsha

tnx
it did cross my mind that I can do a 240 + 120 RAD, couse I can't fit the 360 RAD couse of the I/O wireing (bummer)







if it was not for that I could fit a standard 360 RAD (it's a little shorter then crossflow RAD) in the with no problem. now I can not do a 240 + 240 couse I need HDD for a RAID 1 + SSD. I'll figure some thing out in the end..


----------



## DJKAY

Great News!

Fractal Design opened a spare part center (shop) on their european webside.








I will give it defenetly a try, especially looking at These prices!

http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/

Here are the countrys to which they ship in the Moment:


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Great News!
> 
> Fractal Design opened a spare part center (shop) on their european webside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will give it defenetly a try, especially looking at These prices!
> 
> http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/
> 
> Here are the countrys to which they ship in the Moment:


The one time I want something like this and it's not even available in the US


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bojsha*
> 
> tnx
> it did cross my mind that I can do a 240 + 120 RAD, couse I can't fit the 360 RAD couse of the I/O wireing (bummer)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if it was not for that I could fit a standard 360 RAD (it's a little shorter then crossflow RAD) in the with no problem. now I can not do a 240 + 240 couse I need HDD for a RAID 1 + SSD. I'll figure some thing out in the end..


The rig with the red tubing could be modified to have a 120 rad in the front. You could leave the HDD cage in the bottom for your SSD and HDD and sit a 120 rad and the pump on it, I have taken this approach in my Midi.


----------



## Sand3853

Just received my Arc Midi r2...easily one of the more fun cases I've worked with













sorry for the sub-par pics...only camera I have is also a phone


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sand3853*
> 
> Just received my Arc Midi r2...easily one of the more fun cases I've worked with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for the sub-par pics...only camera I have is also a phone


Nice tidy build there. The only gripe I have is with the 24-pin motherboard power cable. Is it long enough to route through the same hole that the GPU power cable is coming through? I think that would make it look a lot cleaner.


----------



## Eseuldor

From the looks of it I would assume that was the intended look they were going for.


----------



## Sand3853

Yeah, The power connector could have gone through a different hole, but I figured that it covered up the sata cables nicely. I may change where the pcie cables go..but that will wait till my second gfx card arrives


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sand3853*
> 
> Yeah, The power connector could have gone through a different hole, but I figured that it covered up the sata cables nicely. I may change where the pcie cables go..but that will wait till my second gfx card arrives


Fair enough. Post some new pictures when the new parts are in.

Regardless, a very impressive build. Congrats.


----------



## Sand3853

Thanks for the kind words... I'll be sure to post once the new parts are in. My ultimate goal is full custom wc loop, but I have to watch my spending as it makes the wife a lil cranky


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sand3853*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words... I'll be sure to post once the new parts are in. My ultimate goal is full custom wc loop, but I have to watch my spending as it makes the wife a lil cranky


Custom WC loops are fun, but yes there is always the unpredictable difficulty of the marital hobby fund. Hopefully the minister of finance can save money elsewhere this fiscal year and allow more spending to boost the domestic economy.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Finally, my computer is done after RMA's and returns.


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Finally, my computer is done after RMA's and returns.


Amazing build and even better photography. Stunning.


----------



## athlon 64

Photography, you mean pornography?
I just don"t understand why is the top front fan not an intake?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Finally, my computer is done after RMA's and returns.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This pic....







Oh, and nice rig.


----------



## Lutfij

@ GTS - outstanding photography mate!


----------



## youyou

has anyone mounted a h100i in front of the R4 ? i want to but it looks like the tubes are too short .
my R4 atm, want to add a water cooler but i don't want to remove the sound things covering the top and the side panel ,that gpu temporary waiting for my 7970.
don't mind the mess .

Fix


----------



## athlon 64

Dude there is no point in having a bottom exaust fan. Heat RISES. Basics of psyhics.


----------



## youyou

i was thinking because my vapor x 7970 doesn't push air out of the case that that fan would help it out let me go switch the fans~bbl
i'm not a pc person so yea~


----------



## BBEG

Anybody with some Sketchup/CAD/etc. skills mind helping me out?

I'm trying to design a fan mount bracket for the Define R4's vertical PCI slot that lines up with the nonwindowed side panel's existing fan mount. It would be a fairly low-tech piece of equipment: a metal plate with a standard PCI slot mount on one end and a round fan hole that supports mounting for a 120mm fan. Ideally it'll keep that 25mm-ish gap between the vertical PCI slot and the side panel.

(Current experiment will be to cut up a home AC filter, stick it in one of those DIY filter brackets, and see how well it does in place of the higher-restriction DEMCI filters.)


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*


What did you use to light this? Fantastic lighting


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Dude there is no point in having a bottom exaust fan. Heat RISES. Basics of psyhics.


Not significant at all when you have fans moving air but yeah bottom exhaust is generally a bad idea.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Dude there is no point in having a bottom exaust fan. Heat RISES. Basics of psyhics.


I do not know where you got that from, but every since I added my bottom fan my graphics card runs cooler than it was.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youyou*
> 
> has anyone mounted a h100i in front of the R4 ? i want to but it looks like the tubes are too short .
> my R4 atm, want to add a water cooler but i don't want to remove the sound things covering the top and the side panel ,that gpu temporary waiting for my 7970.
> don't mind the mess .


Yes:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/620#post_19352523

(though tall RAM heatspreaders make it difficult--but I made mine fit with a mITX motherboard in push/pull).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Dude there is no point in having a bottom exaust fan. Heat RISES. Basics of psyhics.


There's more to Physics than that, which everyone who says "_Heat_ rises" (incorrect terminology) forgets. You have to take the whole system into consideration--like drawing a force diagram. People forget about other fans in the system that apply force / push air in different directions. Hot air only rises in a convective loop manner when there is no induced turbulence from other fans, and it certainly doesn't take much for hot air to move sideways from front intake fans, etc. Imagine blowing a fan onto a steaming kettle, you'll see the steam move sideways if the fan is fast enough. Moreover, there are localized packets of hot air and all kinds of complicated microcirculation depending on how segmented your case is. It's not an empty box.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Lolburger*
> 
> Amazing build and even better photography. Stunning.


- Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> Photography, you mean pornography?
> I just don"t understand why is the top front fan not an intake?


- The GPU is blowing out air from the fans direction, and so I thought it would make sense to make it into an exhaust instead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> @ GTS - outstanding photography mate!


- Thank you!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> What did you use to light this? Fantastic lighting


- I used my iPhones light, took 3 pictures and just took parts that has good lighting, and thank you!


----------



## SolidSnakeUS

Well that ended up pretty bad. Switch on the front fan filter broke and then the USB 3.0 connector broke the hell off. Decided for the kind of system I have that it's not right. So dealing with taking all my crap out of my Trooper and into the Arc Midi R2, and then back and then figuring out why my computer wasn't booting correctly (fixed it), wasn't too fun. I'm going to get a refund for the Arc Midi R2. No offense to anyone in here. It really is a gorgeous case, but some of the cables were too short for me (the HD Audio connector couldn't reach my sound card's port for allowing front audio).

One plus out of all of this, my computer (inside) is WAY cleaner than it was before. By the way, all of this crap took me at least 4 hours (working slow, stoppages and lower back problems).


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youyou*
> 
> i was thinking because my vapor x 7970 doesn't push air out of the case that that fan would help it out let me go switch the fans~bbl
> i'm not a pc person so yea~


No, it"s on the bottom , all the heat from yours 7970 will rise up where the cpu cooler is. It"s not about beeing a pc person, it"s just logics.


----------



## athlon 64

(though tall RAM heatspreaders make it difficult--but I made mine fit with a mITX motherboard in push/pull).
There's more to Physics than that, which everyone who says "_Heat_ rises" (incorrect terminology) forgets. You have to take the whole system into consideration--like drawing a force diagram. People forget about other fans in the system that apply force / push air in different directions. Hot air only rises in a convective loop manner when there is no induced turbulence from other fans, and it certainly doesn't take much for hot air to move sideways from front intake fans, etc. Imagine blowing a fan onto a steaming kettle, you'll see the steam move sideways if the fan is fast enough. Moreover, there are localized packets of hot air and all kinds of complicated microcirculation depending on how segmented your case is. It's not an empty box.[/quote]

Yer but considering how his PC is assembled now there is no way that any heat will get down to that fan. There is nothing forcing it down there.


----------



## OzMan84

Just wondering if its possible to
a. Mount an intake fan to the upper hdd cage
b. Keep the lower hdd cage in place and install a 120-140mm fan on the base

Thanks in advance.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Just wondering if its possible to
> a. Mount an intake fan to the upper hdd cage
> b. Keep the lower hdd cage in place and install a 120-140mm fan on the base
> 
> Thanks in advance.


What do you mean by install a 140mm on the base? What is the base, the bottom of the case?


----------



## OzMan84

Bottom of the case correct


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Bottom of the case correct


Yes, i used to have that setup. One on the front ,, ont on the bottom but in the end i placed both intakes on the front because its easier to clean the frontal filter.


----------



## OzMan84

What about on the hdd cage? Is it possible to mount a fan on there aswell?


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> What about on the hdd cage? Is it possible to mount a fan on there aswell?


Well just mount both of them in the front and leave the cage in place. What"S the problem?


----------



## D33G33

Seeing as I removed all my drive bays I needed to move my data somewhere else. Welcome to my home cabinet!


----------



## OzMan84

I would like to have the bottom fan, 2 front and possibly side all as intake, rear as exhaust would this be enough of a positive airflow? This would be ample fans to keep things cool?

I wl have the consair h90 connected to the top also.


----------



## diarh34

So I got bored and decided to hide some of my drives, I am still looking for a more creative solution for the 3.5 other then the adapter I made out of an old hd cooler. I remember seeing some type of enclosure that looked like a heatsink mounted to the floor of the case in this thread somewhere, anyone know what I'm talking about and where to get one?

here is a gallery of 3 pics, I don't feel like resizing.



http://imgur.com/LrfTv


----------



## richie_2010

Hide it in the 5.25 bay


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diarh34*
> 
> So I got bored and decided to hide some of my drives, I am still looking for a more creative solution for the 3.5 other then the adapter I made out of an old hd cooler. I remember seeing some type of enclosure that looked like a heatsink mounted to the floor of the case in this thread somewhere, anyone know what I'm talking about and where to get one?
> 
> here is a gallery of 3 pics, I don't feel like resizing.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/LrfTv


That is called a scythe himuro. You should be able to buy it in most hardware stores


----------



## diarh34

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> That is called a scythe himuro. You should be able to buy it in most hardware stores


Thanks for the info, after the post I went back some pages and found it


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youyou*
> 
> has anyone mounted a h100i in front of the R4 ? i want to but it looks like the tubes are too short .
> my R4 atm, want to add a water cooler but i don't want to remove the sound things covering the top and the side panel ,that gpu temporary waiting for my 7970.
> don't mind the mess .


Yeah it's possible. All you have to do is move the bottom HDD tray a couple of inches back. Also, make sure you line the fan cables correctly, because the bottom fan will not reach the Corsair Link port unless it's placed properly.


----------



## Tattoedsailor

Just picked up a Fractal Design Arc midi R2. What awesome case! Any you guys using Corsair AF 140mm fans in the front? Hows the noise floor? I got set NZXT FZ140mm man are they noisy! I'm thinking about taking them back..


----------



## youyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> No, it"s on the bottom , all the heat from yours 7970 will rise up where the cpu cooler is. It"s not about being* a pc person, it"s just logics.


I always thought that gpu pushes air down, now i know thanks.

@the others i will see how my temps are with the evo 212 when i get my gpu should be here on tuesday, if its a bit high i guess i will buy the h100i was going to buy the h220 but always out of stock .

still decorating but slowly~ik bad cable management still waiting for some other things new desk etc etc.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youyou*
> 
> I always thought that gpu pushes air down, now i know thanks.


It pushes the air where its fans push it. Which is often sideways first on non-reference cards. Reference cards push air out of the case. PCB gets hot and heats the air around it, and that air goes where other fans push it or straight up if there are no fans. That poster just refuses to read other relevant posts a couple pages back and reiterates misinformation.


----------



## ScottAllyn

Here are a few shots of my completed build in the Fractal Arc Midi R2:

  

It looks a bit crowded with the shrouds installed, but I've found that they help quite a bit at lower fan speeds, both with noise & with cooling.


----------



## Tattoedsailor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> Here are a few shots of my completed build in the Fractal Arc Midi R2:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a bit crowded with the shrouds installed, but I've found that they help quite a bit at lower fan speeds, both with noise & with cooling.


Looks like Schecter in background... Awesome build btw! Looks epic.


----------



## StevenT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> Here are a few shots of my completed build in the Fractal Arc Midi R2:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a bit crowded with the shrouds installed, but I've found that they help quite a bit at lower fan speeds, both with noise & with cooling.


I love'n it.


----------



## lurker2501

I was always wondering does a single 140mm rad really make any temp difference or people just put in in for the sake of filling empty space in the chassis and for the looks as just clutters up the chassis.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*


What bay res is that?


----------



## MiiX

I think its this one: http://koolance.com/rp-401x2-single-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-400-pumps


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I think its this one: http://koolance.com/rp-401x2-single-5-25in-reservoir-for-1-2-pmp-400-pumps


Yup, that's it. I'm using it with a single Swiftech MCP35X and have it setup so that the coolant travels through both sides (they seem to recommend blocking off one side when using a single pump). It was a headache to bleed, so I ended up doing it in a couple of sessions to keep myself from getting too frustrated.

This is my first bay reservoir / pump combo and I was worried about vibration, but it's turned out to be very quiet.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dphi*
> 
> Here's my build =)
> 
> No GFX in loop yet due to card with weird PCB layout!


I like this. Was thinking of the rad on the bottom. Keep front air flow strong. Looks good. Awesome cases here.

I was wondering if anyone's put a 200mm fan in the top of their r4 yet? I'm running with a antec 1200 right now and have it on high settings, pulls a lot of heat and still very quiet. Although, I guess it would defeat the purpose of silence with a hole that big in the case.

Also, just replaced my antec 1200 fans with enermax TB silence fans Enermax TB Silence The 120mm's I got run at 900rpm/11db and are Super quiet. The 140mm versions are probably just as great!
I can't wait to upgrade cases


----------



## Dphi

Quote:


> I like this. Was thinking of the rad on the bottom. Keep front air flow strong. Looks good. Awesome cases here.


Thanks!


----------



## tasdefleja




----------



## Tonysoprano

A lot of really nice looking Fractal builds here!

White ftw!


----------



## Tonysoprano

Oh and black aint too bad either!


----------



## Tonysoprano

Oh dang it

Would love to see a yellow one, with an MSI M-Power theme!


----------



## Eseuldor

You can always edit a post to add new thoughts. Just an FYI.


----------



## AndySarsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tasdefleja*


I LOVE the way those Corsair fans look! Nice and clean build!


----------



## OzMan84

Where do you guys hide the fan controller cables?


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Where do you guys hide the fan controller cables?


A very good question lol.

a look inside mine. I still have some tidying up to do and need to replace the angled 120mm on the bottom. Ive never sleeved before too but I think I need to do that as well.







http://imgur.com/giw0444


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*


Nice job. I coloured in all except the cooler master logo on my cm CPU cooler top plate/fin with black marker to see how it looked. Its nice! Lol going to spray paint it anyways along with my DVD drive case.

PS. That bottom fan tilted is what I had in mind also


----------



## ZeVo

Amazing pictures newone.

What camera are you using?

Update on my rig: I will be moving my HDD from under my 5.25 bay and my SSD on the motherboard tray and sticking it directly on my side panel. What do you guys think? I like how it looks like in ekg84's 3k:



Only difference is I didn't make a bracket so I'll have to show the ugly side of the HDD..









Pics tomorrow!


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Nice job. I coloured in all except the cooler master logo on my cm CPU cooler top plate/fin with black marker to see how it looked. Its nice! Lol going to spray paint it anyways along with my DVD drive case.
> 
> PS. That bottom fan tilted is what I had in mind also


I'd like to see how that black cooler comes out!

I think I might turn my PS back over to move the cables outta the way a little and swap my top exhaust fan to a diagonal bottom intake, would like provide better airflow over the GPU. I just don't think the top exhaust right next to back exhaust is effective (in my head anyways). Would like a top intake but don't want the dust. Decisions decisions. I'm also going to swap m y power led to either blue or white (and do white lights on the inside)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Amazing pictures newone.
> 
> What camera are you using?


Thanks! I'm using a Canon 5d (the original/classic) with a Sigma 35mm 1.4 and a 430 ex speedlite. Setup cost more than my rig lol. I have a lot of (expensive) hobbies.

That hard drive in the last pic is so sexy lol


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> A very good question lol.
> 
> a look inside mine. I still have some tidying up to do and need to replace the angled 120mm on the bottom. Ive never sleeved before too but I think I need to do that as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/giw0444


Nice build there mate but I don't see were you put your case cables for the fan controller? (I am not using mine so I have no use for them so need to hide them away somewhere....)


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Nice build there mate but I don't see were you put your case cables for the fan controller? (I am not using mine so I have no use for them so need to hide them away somewhere....)


Thanks. I have mine tied in the little crevice on the side of the front fan brackets. I don't know a good place to put them that's why I said it was a good question. Hoping someone can chime in with a better solution.


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Nice build there mate but I don't see were you put your case cables for the fan controller? (I am not using mine so I have no use for them so need to hide them away somewhere....)
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I have mine tied in the little crevice on the side of the front fan brackets. I don't know a good place to put them that's why I said it was a good question. Hoping someone can chime in with a better solution.
Click to expand...

That's where I would hide them too.


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Thanks. I have mine tied in the little crevice on the side of the front fan brackets. I don't know a good place to put them that's why I said it was a good question. Hoping someone can chime in with a better solution.


I was looking at that area but I can't find anywhere to cable tie them to. Are you able to post a picture of how you achieved this?


----------



## DaTraS

Hey guys,

I'm very excited about the Arc Midi R2, but got a question about the radiators that will fit (or not).
Someone already did a build with 2x 280mm radiators inside the R2?

Greetings,

DaTraS


----------



## Hogwasher

I'm running two 240's with out a problem. The only thing I could see being wrong with 280's is the top might get really tight with High profile ram or VRM heat sinks. But a 280 in the front I'm confident wouldn't be much of a problem


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaTraS*
> 
> I'm very excited about the Arc Midi R2, but got a question about the radiators that will fit (or not).


I'd say that you have approximately 50 to 55mm of vertical clearance before you start running into potential fit issues between the radiator/fans and the motherboard components. A low profile 280 with a single set of 25mm thick fans (no push/pull and no shrouds) *should* be ok.


----------



## DaTraS

Thanks for the answers, guys.
So, the top should be fine - but what about the front?


----------



## OzMan84

Hey guys,

Going to attempt to sleeve the fans that were included with this case, whats the best way to "unhook" the cables from the fan casing without breaking anything.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaTraS*
> 
> Thanks for the answers, guys.
> So, the top should be fine - but what about the front?


I say the front will hold just about anything but the top is where you might run into clearance issues


----------



## ranviper

Proud new owner of a core 1000. AND a new PC. The old PC was just more power than I needed or used, so I sold it to a friend and build this little thing. Works great, still games, was mad cheap, and was able to put more money into car mods.









A10-5800K
MSI FM2-A75
MSI GTX 460 Twin Forzr II
8GB G-Skill1866
Corsair CX500W
Corsair 90GB Force 3
1 TB Seagate Baraccuda
Core 1000





Thinking I might spin the heat sink 180 degrees though so you can see my RAM. Idk, we'll see if I don't get too lazy. lol.


----------



## dezmick

Even though i am sure this question has already been asked, i am just wanting to know if a corsair h110 will fit in the top of the R4, and if so is it only with two fans or is a push pull possible. Thanks: Mickey


----------



## beyonddc

I built a PC for my parents using the core 1000 case recently. Very nice looking case.


----------



## DaTraS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hogwasher*
> 
> I say the front will hold just about anything but the top is where you might run into clearance issues


And that's exactly the point I'm not sure about.
I've seen the review on youtube with 2x 240mm radiators, and there was not much space left between the radiator and the 5,25" bays.

Dunno if the radiator was an extra long one, though.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Going to attempt to sleeve the fans that were included with this case, whats the best way to "unhook" the cables from the fan casing without breaking anything.


I use a paperclip personally, I bend it to the max then I have something that works and won't scratch the metal connectors.

Here's Lutro0 guide BTW if you haven't seen it:


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaTraS*
> 
> And that's exactly the point I'm not sure about.
> I've seen the review on youtube with 2x 240mm radiators, and there was not much space left between the radiator and the 5,25" bays.
> 
> Dunno if the radiator was an extra long one, though.


I read somewhere the kraken would fit in the top. I'm at work but when I get home I'll take some close up pictures of my 240 thick rad installed in the top

The holes for 120mm fans are farther forward then the 140mm mounts


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I use a paperclip personally, I bend it to the max then I have something that works and won't scratch the metal connectors.
> 
> Here's Lutro0 guide BTW if you haven't seen it:


Thanks for the help, I have watched that earlier but he seems to just yank it out? Wont that snap the little plastic thing on the black fan case because it looks fragile....(I ask this because he is using a different fan in the tutorial)?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Thanks for the help, I have watched that earlier but he seems to just yank it out? Wont that snap the little plastic thing on the black fan case because it looks fragile....(I ask this because he is using a different fan in the tutorial)?


Yah but he has a special tool like a cutter but with a flat edge, you have to push the top metal pieces:


----------



## MiiX

I use a think scewdriver, knife, sizzor. They all work. I like using the knife, easier to flip the metal pice down again if it wont lock into place after sleeving or w/e


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Proud new owner of a core 1000. AND a new PC. The old PC was just more power than I needed or used, so I sold it to a friend and build this little thing. Works great, still games, was mad cheap, and was able to put more money into car mods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A10-5800K
> MSI FM2-A75
> MSI GTX 460 Twin Forzr II
> 8GB G-Skill1866
> Corsair CX500W
> Corsair 90GB Force 3
> 1 TB Seagate Baraccuda
> Core 1000
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking I might spin the heat sink 180 degrees though so you can see my RAM. Idk, we'll see if I don't get too lazy. lol.


Nice little case. I have the same cpu cooler in mine but with a Noctua fan. Enjoy you're new rig.


----------



## Slobergoof

Rigs look great everyone. Heres a sneak peek of my newest case mod. Iv'e decided to go for a mATX build with the Core 1000. Should be ready to get started by this summer.


Fitted with a Noctua NH-C12P
Intel I7 2600K
Asrock Z77 Fatal1ty M mobo
8GB DDR3
GTX 580 or a 670
Silverstone Strider PSU w/ custom sleeved short cables.
Antec 920 cooling the GPU with Dwood Bracket
Bottom intake fan mod to mount a window on the side panel.
Custom Mesh PSU/cable shroud

What you guys think?


----------



## StevenT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slobergoof*
> 
> Rigs look great everyone. Heres a sneak peek of my newest case mod. Iv'e decided to go for a mATX build with the Core 1000. Should be ready to get started by this summer.
> 
> 
> Fitted with a Noctua NH-C12P
> Intel I7 2600K
> Asrock Z77 Fatal1ty M mobo
> 8GB DDR3
> GTX 580 or a 670
> Silverstone Strider PSU w/ custom sleeved short cables.
> Antec 920 cooling the GPU with Dwood Bracket
> Bottom intake fan mod to mount a window on the side panel.
> Custom Mesh PSU/cable shroud
> 
> What you guys think?


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> I use a paperclip personally, I bend it to the max then I have something that works and won't scratch the metal connectors.
> 
> Here's Lutro0 guide BTW if you haven't seen it:


I have two of these CM fans like in the video.







not that I'm using them. But they've lasted for 3 years so far


----------



## jtBizz

What up OCN! New to OCN and have bought parts for a rig using the Core 1000 usb3.0. Love this little case. Can't wait to put it together.


----------



## MiiX

Looking forward for pictures


----------



## Dphi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaTraS*
> 
> And that's exactly the point I'm not sure about.
> I've seen the review on youtube with 2x 240mm radiators, and there was not much space left between the radiator and the 5,25" bays.
> 
> Dunno if the radiator was an extra long one, though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaTraS*
> 
> And that's exactly the point I'm not sure about.
> I've seen the review on youtube with 2x 240mm radiators, and there was not much space left between the radiator and the 5,25" bays.
> 
> Dunno if the radiator was an extra long one, though.


Hey, I've got a 240mm rad up top and its tight. It's pretty much flush with the drive bays, just a few mm clearance. I'm pretty sure you couldn't fit a optical drive or anything like that.


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> Here are a few shots of my completed build in the Fractal Arc Midi R2:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a bit crowded with the shrouds installed, but I've found that they help quite a bit at lower fan speeds, both with noise & with cooling.


were u got the ROG sticker?


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Nice little case. I have the same cpu cooler in mine but with a Noctua fan. Enjoy you're new rig.


Thanks! Your's is looking good.


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Looking forward for pictures


This is the back sorry the pic is rotated

Front by the drive cages

here is the top, you can see that the 120mm mounts are farther forward then the 140mm mounts. Also you can see my motherboards VRM heat sinks would likely interfere with a thick 280

I think is you went with a 280 you might not be able to mount a rear exhaust fan


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Yah but he has a special tool like a cutter but with a flat edge, you have to push the top metal pieces:


No worries thanks for that







My build is 80% done. Everything except the CPU Cooler is installed. Don't want to install that until I order my sleeving gear and tidy up the cables. Alot has changed since I built a P4 way back in 2001 so took me a little longer to put things together but overall I am happy with everything.

Its been good seeing peoples rigs to get ideas for cable management which I hope to take advantage of soon.


----------



## Luke88

http://imgur.com/fxfI2hq


Can I join ?


----------



## DatUsername

What fans (120/140mm) would you recommend in the R4? 2 on the front panel and 1 on the back. Silent, but yet something witch can push enough air.


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> were u got the ROG sticker?


It came with the motherboard.


----------



## MiiX

Scythe Gentle Typhon AP15 undervolted if needed.
My


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> Here are a few shots of my completed build in the Fractal Arc Midi R2:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks a bit crowded with the shrouds installed, but I've found that they help quite a bit at lower fan speeds, both with noise & with cooling.


Hey what size fan does you're psu have? 120mm? also, is it loud?

I have a 850w corsair TX with 140mm fan.. You think it would be quiet but it has a offset/ warped fan that makes a sound at every full rotation.. loudest thing in my antec 1200 besides the 480..
I'm looking into a new psu for define r4 upgrade. yes, upgrade lol 1200 has a horrible fan filter set up.


----------



## dezmick

Can anyone tell me if the Corsair H90 will fit in the rear exhaust fan hole of an XL R2 in push pull. and still give me enough room to mount to 140 mm fans up top. And would i be wrong in wanting to use the H90 as exhaust as well as the two 140 mm fans up top, with two 140 mm fans up front as intake and one on bottom as intake as well, would that setup work or not. Thanks: Mick


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Hey what size fan does you're psu have? 120mm? also, is it loud?
> 
> I have a 850w corsair TX with 140mm fan.. You think it would be quiet but it has a offset/ warped fan that makes a sound at every full rotation.. loudest thing in my antec 1200 besides the 480..
> I'm looking into a new psu for define r4 upgrade. yes, upgrade lol 1200 has a horrible fan filter set up.


It has a 140mm fan. Under full load, the Gentle Typhoons are all that I hear, so I can safely say that it's less noisy than a GT AP15. As I sit here typing this, the power supply fan is not even spinning. Quoting corsair:
Quote:


> The fan doesn't even spin when your system is idle or doing basic work like surfing the web or running office applications.


----------



## Luke88

anyone knows the power led size of the fractal r4 ?
3mm or 5mm ?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luke88*
> 
> anyone knows the power led size of the fractal r4 ?
> 3mm or 5mm ?


3mm. Replaced my blue one with a red one.


----------



## Luke88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> 3mm. Replaced my blue one with a red one.


thank you so much..

anyway, here's my r4



http://imgur.com/hVuI7iR


----------



## Stuartambient

Does the sound dampening in the R4's really make a difference?


----------



## .theMetal




----------



## MiiX

Me like







What mousecarpet is that?


----------



## roman59

Nice to see a noiseblocker at the rear of your case got 2 of those on my H80i









Running 1 140 fan top rear in my r4 does the front top fan make much difference to the case temperatures?

Got 2 140 fractals on my front panel as intakes & the H80i with 2 noiseblockers on it mounted at the rear of the case in push/pull and a 140 fan sitting in the bottom of the case as an intake

Many thanks


----------



## .theMetal

appreciate it







Its a razer goliathus extended edition its the smooth speed version. I love it it doesn't move around at all.


----------



## OmarCCX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuartambient*
> 
> Does the sound dampening in the R4's really make a difference?


When I open the front door I really notice a difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luke88*
> 
> anyone knows the power led size of the fractal r4 ?
> 3mm or 5mm ?


I want to remove it altogether. It's way too bright.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a razer goliathus extended edition its the smooth speed version. I love it it doesn't move around at all.


I have the "Control Edition" Love that thing!


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luke88*
> 
> thank you so much..
> 
> anyway, here's my r4
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/hVuI7iR


Beautiful. What RAM is that. Pretty vain of me but I really like the white lol


----------



## Tiggles

For the R4, is mounting an H100i on top or in front better? Not in a push pull, just 2 fans.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Beautiful. What RAM is that. Pretty vain of me but I really like the white lol


Looks like Corsair Vengeance LP White


----------



## Stuartambient

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> When I open the front door I really notice a difference.
> .


Well so the thing is I just setup an Arc Midi 2 and it's comparatively quiet to other cases here (6 fans 140-120) . Now I was thinking of another one but if the DR4 was quieter then maybe that would be a better choice.


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuartambient*
> 
> Well so the thing is I just setup an Arc Midi 2 and it's comparatively quiet to other cases here (6 fans 140-120) . Now I was thinking of another one but if the DR4 was quieter then maybe that would be a better choice.


Or you could do the best of both worlds... an Arc Midi R2 with sound dampening material installed prior to assembly:



I used SilverStone Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01. Is it more silent than without the foam? I didn't do a before and after comparison, so I can't really say. However, this is definitely the quietest computer that I've ever built and it's not my first foray into watercooling.

I've installed the foam onto all exposed surfaces of both doors, the bottom of the case, the bottom of the 5¼ drive bay, and various other small exposed surfaces.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> It has a 140mm fan. Under full load, the Gentle Typhoons are all that I hear, so I can safely say that it's less noisy than a GT AP15. As I sit here typing this, the power supply fan is not even spinning. Quoting corsair:


Ah. My 850w tx never stops spinning.. Although it could be worse I suppose. The fan doesn't really ramp up at all, if at all under full load. It's been going for three years so I got my monies worth








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiggles*
> 
> For the R4, is mounting an H100i on top or in front better? Not in a push pull, just 2 fans.


I would try it on the bottom of the case, if it fits, drill a bunch more holes to get maximum air flow. That way you could maybe get one or two in the front with no obstruction.


----------



## Stuartambient

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> Or you could do the best of both worlds... an Arc Midi R2 with sound dampening material installed prior to assembly:
> 
> 
> 
> I used SilverStone Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01. Is it more silent than without the foam? I didn't do a before and after comparison, so I can't really say. However, this is definitely the quietest computer that I've ever built and it's not my first foray into watercooling.
> 
> I've installed the foam onto all exposed surfaces of both doors, the bottom of the case, the bottom of the 5¼ drive bay, and various other small exposed surfaces.


Sounds good. I'm going to look into it. Thank you.


----------



## dezmick

Hi all. I am wanting to know if this motherboard will fit in an Arc Midi R2. Thanks: Mick

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131854


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Hi all. I am wanting to know if this motherboard will fit in an Arc Midi R2. Thanks: Mick
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131854


Yeah it fits, blocks the cable grommets a bit though.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Finally got around to removing all the hard drive housing but, I still need to figure out how to hide some other cables.

Some crappy pics


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Gtsteveeiee that is one sexy rig. Nice work!


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> Finally got around to removing all the hard drive housing but, I still need to figure out how to hide some other cables.
> 
> Some crappy pics


LMAO @ "crappy pics", yeah right those are awesome


----------



## newone757

Re-did a couple things. Actually fastened down the temporary 120mm on the bottom, switched my top to an intake (I lay a dust filter over the top), and switched my power supply back around and turned its fan off of ECO mode. Temps seem to be around the same throughout the case before/after so I guess it didn't make much difference. Haven't put a crazy load on it yet though so we'll see







Still need to swap my power led to a white, replace my bottom 120 with matching Fractal fan and possibly sleeve everything. Have another 670 on the way so I'm pumped for that!


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Re-did a couple things. Actually fastened down the temporary 120mm on the bottom, switched my top to an intake (I lay a dust filter over the top), and switched my power supply back around and turned its fan off of ECO mode. Temps seem to be around the same throughout the case before/after so I guess it didn't make much difference. Haven't put a crazy load on it yet though so we'll see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still need to swap my power led to a white, replace my bottom 120 with matching Fractal fan and possibly sleeve everything. Have another 670 on the way so I'm pumped for that!


Looks good. You should try take out the back fan and pull fan on the hyper 212 +/evo I noticed I only gain -1 C with push pull, and I've heard the rear fan taken out helps. Maybe add it to the top is what I would do, if it turns out to be true. I'm looking for 70% better Silence to near 25% heating increase with getting rid of my antec 1200.


----------



## newone757

Hmm. So you just leave the back of the case open like that? What about dust?

Don't think I could do that with my almost 2 year old running around. I just picture her filling my case up with food and toys while I'm at work lol


----------



## dezmick

What would you guys think of an R4 Arctic white with a black and red inside theme, like a asus formula v and corsair fans using the red ring.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Hmm. So you just leave the back of the case open like that? What about dust?
> 
> Don't think I could do that with my almost 2 year old running around. I just picture her filling my case up with food and toys while I'm at work lol


Yeah. Rear fan out. And pull fan out. I read a old test article posted in this thread around page 200 that mentioned just one push fan on a hyper 212 is better for acoustics. Dust should be the same with it on or off. As for the top, I have a wide 200mm fan on my antec and even that's not too bad. But its all in the name of silence  As for toys and food, as long as you have the grills still its all good. I would watch out for crayons and food for sure lol


----------



## Jaren1

Some pics of my R4


----------



## newone757

Very nice! Unique color choice, well done floor. I love it


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Very nice! Unique color choice, well done floor. I love it


Thank you!

another pic, better showing the floor


----------



## dezmick

Can anyone tell me if a Corsair H90 will work at the rear exhaust of a Design R4 and still let me mount two Corsair af 140's up top. Thanks: Mick


----------



## gdubc

I would think that that would work. I have a kraken X40 and when I was testing it different places it fit in the back spot pretty easy. And looking at my case now I have an AF140 in the back and the fractal fans up top and it looks like it would fit. I would think the Corsair unit would fit pretty similar.


----------



## dezmick

Looking at doing a new build, and i was wanting some opinions as to which color of case i should go with, using this hardware. I am trying to decide between the Black R4 and the White R4

ASUS Maximus V FORMULA LGA 1155 Intel Z77
Intel Core i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Black
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 Red
CORSAIR AX860i
CORSAIR Hydro Series H80i
Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition Twin Pack, For H80i (Red Rings)
Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition x 5 (Red Rings)
EVGA SuperClocked 02G-P4-3662-KR GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB x 2
Corsair Force Series GT CSSD 2.5" 120GB
Western Digital WD Green 3TB
Corsair Vengeance M65 Black
Corsair Vengeance K70 Black

Basically it would be an all red and black inside of the case.


----------



## newone757

I'd vote for black

Just swap the power led to red. If you decide to go white it comes with a red led. They should have switched those IMO


----------



## edelfurioso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> 3mm. Replaced my blue one with a red one.


can i get a link from were u got the red one?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edelfurioso*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> 3mm. Replaced my blue one with a red one.
> 
> 
> 
> can i get a link from were u got the red one?
Click to expand...

You can buy then on ebay


----------



## newone757

Yeah because I wasted my time going into radioshack today. Should have known better. The whole drawer that was labeled 3mm only had one 3mm led that flash red green and blue. Everything else in the whole section was either 5mm or 10mm. smh Radioshack


----------



## OzMan84

would it be safe to say that it is ok if I was to solder the standard fan cables (assuming 24AWG) to 18AWG cables? Or would I be better off just making 18AWG Extensions? Would 3x 18AWG fit within MDPC sleeving? I am using 140mm Fractal Fans.

sorry if this is a little off topic.


----------



## dezmick

Define R4 or Arc Midi R2, I am going to be getting one of these two cases, but i am having a tough time deciding, if i get the Arc Midi R2 i can mount a H100i in the top in push-pull and have a AF140 in rear as exhaust, if i get the Define R4 i would go with the H80i at the rear in push-pull and have two AF140's up top as exhaust fans, which would be the best way to go. Thanks: Mick


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Define R4 or Arc Midi R2, I am going to be getting one of these two cases, but i am having a tough time deciding, if i get the Arc Midi R2 i can mount a H100i in the top in push-pull and have a AF140 in rear as exhaust, if i get the Define R4 i would go with the H80i at the rear in push-pull and have two AF140's up top as exhaust fans, which would be the best way to go. Thanks: Mick


I prefer the R2 and would scrap the H100i and go for the H220 instead.


----------



## dezmick

R4 Black Pearl w window 89.99 on the egg right now, And i just ordered one.


----------



## falcon26

Ordered one myself  Thanks for the heads up...


----------



## SclerosiS

Hello,

Recently found out this forum and im very pleased with all the info and guides that are here. Im planning to get a Core 3000 usb3 in about a month. So from what i read here it has to some level good cable management, is that so and is there a cutout for the 8-pin cable, because some state that there isnt, others that there is such. For now im not planning OC or watercooling.

Thanks,


----------



## shilka

You guys may want to check this thread out if you are interested

http://www.overclock.net/t/1391520/fractal-design-power-supplies-information-thread


----------



## R0yy

Got my R4 (black, window) 2 weeks ago. Got myself a WC kit (240 rad) and was just waiting for the tubing + some extra's to arrive.

Got the last stuff today hurray!

Because of the thickness of my radiator I can only mount it in front of the case, I am planning to build it this saturday but I had a quick question as a beginner!

http://postimg.org/image/7ih4t4y6r/

Ignore my paint skillz please









I got my fans sucking air into the case, into the rad. My eheim pump is directly connected to the reservoir.

The water goes into the pump (from the res) to the cpu. Water comes out of the CPU to the rad, then the water goes from the rad to the res then pump etc. Just want a final check before I build it. Is this the right way?

After its done I'll post the pics ofcourse!


----------



## jtBizz

Ok. So I Haven't built a system in a long time. I was hoping to do some sleeving on this rig but haven't found the time and went straight to putting it together.

Fractal Core 1000 USB 3.0
Intel 3570K
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5
Silencer MK III 500W Modular (partially modular)
Corsair Vengeance White (can't see them, they're under the heatsink)
1 TB Caviar Black





I was really worried about the CPU cooler not fitting because it would come too close to the PSU if you mounted pointing up, and pointing down is not recommneded by manufacturer. Pointing it back towards the mobo plate made the mobo nearly impossible to install so I had to remount and point it towards the front. To my surprise it didn't interfere with the vertically mounted HDD (1 TB caviar black). The cooler's fan also blows air onto the mobo and its nice that it can hang over the ram (low profile ram, but I've read that the standard vengeance model will fit underneath, but not sure).





The stock GeminII came with a 120 mm fan so I swapped it with a 140 mm Bitfenix, WHITE. I planted the original fan onto the side plate.







Put a Fractal R2 92 mm in the back, so all the fan slots are occupied (and it sounds like an air conditioner, but I don't care).





So, excuse me if it seems sloppy to you guys but I'm happy with it and most importantly it's running the games. Maybe at a later date I'll pull it apart and start sleeving


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R0yy*
> 
> Got my R4 (black, window) 2 weeks ago. Got myself a WC kit (240 rad) and was just waiting for the tubing + some extra's to arrive.
> 
> Got the last stuff today hurray!
> 
> Because of the thickness of my radiator I can only mount it in front of the case, I am planning to build it this saturday but I had a quick question as a beginner!
> 
> http://postimg.org/image/7ih4t4y6r/
> 
> Ignore my paint skillz please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my fans sucking air into the case, into the rad. My eheim pump is directly connected to the reservoir.
> 
> The water goes into the pump (from the res) to the cpu. Water comes out of the CPU to the rad, then the water goes from the rad to the res then pump etc. Just want a final check before I build it. Is this the right way?
> 
> After its done I'll post the pics ofcourse!


As long as you have the res feeding the coolant straight into the pump (which you do), the order of the rest of the loop doesn't matter. Build away my friend.


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtBizz*
> 
> Ok. So I Haven't built a system in a long time. I was hoping to do some sleeving on this rig but haven't found the time and went straight to putting it together.
> 
> Fractal Core 1000 USB 3.0
> Intel 3570K
> ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
> MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5
> Silencer MK III 500W Modular (partially modular)
> Corsair Vengeance White (can't see them, they're under the heatsink)
> 1 TB Caviar Black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really worried about the CPU cooler not fitting because it would come too close to the PSU if you mounted pointing up, and pointing down is not recommneded by manufacturer. Pointing it back towards the mobo plate made the mobo nearly impossible to install so I had to remount and point it towards the front. To my surprise it didn't interfere with the vertically mounted HDD (1 TB caviar black). The cooler's fan also blows air onto the mobo and its nice that it can hang over the ram (low profile ram, but I've read that the standard vengeance model will fit underneath, but not sure).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stock GeminII came with a 120 mm fan so I swapped it with a 140 mm Bitfenix, WHITE. I planted the original fan onto the side plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a Fractal R2 92 mm in the back, so all the fan slots are occupied (and it sounds like an air conditioner, but I don't care).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, excuse me if it seems sloppy to you guys but I'm happy with it and most importantly it's running the games. Maybe at a later date I'll pull it apart and start sleeving


Nice work with the tight space. Well done.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Hey guys I'm new to the SFF Scene and love the look of the Arc Mini. Howrver I need to wc my system a 3930K and two 7970s.. is there any mods I can do for two 240mm phobya g changers?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jtBizz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. So I Haven't built a system in a long time. I was hoping to do some sleeving on this rig but haven't found the time and went straight to putting it together.
> 
> Fractal Core 1000 USB 3.0
> Intel 3570K
> ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
> MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5
> Silencer MK III 500W Modular (partially modular)
> Corsair Vengeance White (can't see them, they're under the heatsink)
> 1 TB Caviar Black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was really worried about the CPU cooler not fitting because it would come too close to the PSU if you mounted pointing up, and pointing down is not recommneded by manufacturer. Pointing it back towards the mobo plate made the mobo nearly impossible to install so I had to remount and point it towards the front. To my surprise it didn't interfere with the vertically mounted HDD (1 TB caviar black). The cooler's fan also blows air onto the mobo and its nice that it can hang over the ram (low profile ram, but I've read that the standard vengeance model will fit underneath, but not sure).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stock GeminII came with a 120 mm fan so I swapped it with a 140 mm Bitfenix, WHITE. I planted the original fan onto the side plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put a Fractal R2 92 mm in the back, so all the fan slots are occupied (and it sounds like an air conditioner, but I don't care).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, excuse me if it seems sloppy to you guys but I'm happy with it and most importantly it's running the games. Maybe at a later date I'll pull it apart and start sleeving


Nice build! I love that little case. The only thing I didn't like about the case, was the HDD mount. I had to custom make a vertical HDD cage which gave it a cleaner look.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## R0yy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Lolburger*
> 
> As long as you have the res feeding the coolant straight into the pump (which you do), the order of the rest of the loop doesn't matter. Build away my friend.


Cheers m8, I will post pics when I'm done!

I am kinda curious about the rad as a front intake, isn't the "door" holding up all the air getting into the case?


----------



## dezmick

I am not sur if this has already been asked, i could not find it if it has, so i am planning on getting both a R4 Black Pearl w/Window and a Arc Midi R2 Black w/Window, i will be using the Midi R2 as my mane gaming rig and the R4 as a Entertainment pc, what i am wanting to know is will the clear windowed panel that i get with the R4 fit on the Midi R2 and like wise will the Arc Midi smoked window panel fit on the R4, i want a clear panel so i could see my components in the system better. Thanks: Mick


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R0yy*
> 
> I am kinda curious about the rad as a front intake, isn't the "door" holding up all the air getting into the case?


There are vents along the edges of the door to allow airflow. I've never used an R4 so I can't comment with authority, but there might be some turbulence noise depending on how fast your fans are running. Although I don't think this would be the case with the fans speeds associated with water cooling.


----------



## OzMan84

Has anyone changed the LED on their R4? Was iteasy enough?


----------



## OzMan84

just to addon from my previous post, has anyone sleeved the cables that come with the r4?


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Has anyone changed the LED on their R4? Was iteasy enough?


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*


I was trying to get it out earlier today. It seemed loose but still wouldn't come out and I didn't want to break anything. Are you able to help me out with pictures or a short vid or something please?

Also was there a specific LED you needed to use?


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

I am seriously considering getting the R4 today on newegg. Can anyone tell me what the max radiator size that can be fitted to the top with one set of fans? I am considering getting an H220 from Swiftech or getting a custom loop down the line and maybe mounting a rad there. I could do it in the front, so if you know the max size for a rad in there please let me know! (one set of fans probably).

Posts that answer me soon will absolutely get repped. I usually don't advertize that, but since I might get the case today or asap since it is only $90 shipped, I need an answer asap.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*
> 
> I am seriously considering getting the R4 today on newegg. Can anyone tell me what the max radiator size that can be fitted to the top with one set of fans? I am considering getting an H220 from Swiftech or getting a custom loop down the line and maybe mounting a rad there. I could do it in the front, so if you know the max size for a rad in there please let me know! (one set of fans probably).


I have the r4 as well as the h220. I havent put the h220 in yet but i have a kraken x40 push/pull in the front now. When doing that build I tried the kraken about everywhere in the case but the front worked best for my setup. I can say the h220 would go anywhere you want to put it with one fan for sure. Two fans however would not work up top more than likely. (depends on your mb)
If you get more tube you could even mount the rad in the bottom and add a small res. up top somewhere as an air trap. Basically you can do whatever you want with little to no modifications for a 240mm rad. If you put it in front you can move the bottom hdd cage back a little and use two of the case bottom fan holes to secure it and still use it, as you will have to remove the top cage.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Hmmm, I'm just not sure if this is the case to get then. Sounds tricky at best to really know what fits and where. I assume you lost 5 HDD slots by removing that top cage, leaving 3 on the bottom? That is enough for my needs, especially since I can relocate SSDs to the rear of the case if need be.


----------



## gdubc

Yeah, I took out the top cage but with the kraken i was able to leave the bottom in place and therefore added a bottom intake fan. I can mount 6 ssds in that bottom cage if need be. I use a 6 bay hot swap in one of the big drive bays with some old laptop drives for extra storage (had some 500gb wd blacks i didnt want to go to waste!) . I put an ocz vector, vertex 3 as well as a 1tb wd black in that bottom bay for now and have another vertex 3 I plan to put in. Thought I might add an Intel 330 I am not using to the back of the mb tray but havent decided if I want to go through the trouble. I do love the case very much though. Quality.


----------



## gtsteviiee




----------



## newone757

NIce. Shoulda just let them sit in the grass for the photoshoot though!


----------



## michael-ocn

Does anybody know if the Cooler Master Eisberg 240L fits up top in the R4?

I know the H220 does by virtue of this vid (which shows off the case quite alot)...




... but I just found out about the Eisberg cooler and am wondering if they can work in this case too?


----------



## gtsteviiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> NIce. Shoulda just let them sit in the grass for the photoshoot though!


I was about to! But then, I saw a bug crawling around so, I decided not to


----------



## dezmick

Got most of my stuff, but waiting on the most important part aka the motherboard. You can see everything that i will be having in my system in my sig. Mick


----------



## ZeVo

Looks interesting. Hope to see some more pics.


----------



## bojsha

hi guys, need a little info, since i don't have the motherboard yet
how much space does spacers + motherboard take? 15mm?
I'am thinking of getting the Thermalright Archon SB-E X2 for my Arc Mini build, the front panel is full plexiglass


----------



## OzMan84

where can I buy dupont male crimps? I need to make an extension cable for my HD Audio. I would rather make one then buy one if possible.... thanks in advance.

would this would if I used a female crimp within the housing and put this on the other side?


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee*
> 
> I was about to! But then, I saw a bug crawling around so, I decided not to


Haha gotta protect the precious' . Nice shots none the less. Probrably gonna have to steal that idea


----------



## R0yy

http://postimg.org/image/ddx5cp7wb/

http://postimg.org/image/7yofbqgcb/

http://postimg.org/image/6skfcxs1n/

http://postimg.org/image/l1k1v06kb/

http://postimg.org/image/b82ui74fv/

http://postimg.org/image/6kwsgfh2z/

http://postimg.org/image/bfqhepfej/










2 HDD's in the 5.25 bays, forgot about the ssd. I know you can mount it behind the motherboard tray, but since I was done already and didn't want to take the motherboard out again I made myself a ssd dock!


----------



## newone757

I was just thinking about moving my hdd to the 5.25 bay. Removing bottom cage for better airflow to the graphics card. Hmmm


----------



## dezmick

Can anyone tell me if a Corsair H110 will fit in the top of a Arc Midi R2 in push-pull or even just push. Thanks: Mick


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if a Corsair H110 will fit in the top of a Arc Midi R2 in push-pull or even just push. Thanks: Mick


No 140mm mounting has issues with mosfets or ram clearance. Can only be push or pull. H220 would be a better choice. Which you can do P/P. The tubing kinda hits the side OD bay, but not a big issue. The H110 was made to fit Corsair stupid 20mm spacing in there cases. You can see it in my build with H220.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## colforbin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> No 140mm mounting has issues with mosfets or ram clearance. Can only be push or pull. H220 would be a better choice. Which you can do P/P. The tubing kinda hits the side OD bay, but not a big issue. The H110 was made to fit Corsair stupid 20mm spacing in there cases. You can see it in my build with H220.
> 
> Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


+1 on that H220.


----------



## bojsha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bojsha*
> 
> hi guys, need a little info, since i don't have the motherboard yet
> how much space does spacers + motherboard take? 15mm?
> I'am thinking of getting the Thermalright Archon SB-E X2 for my Arc Mini build, the front panel is full plexiglass


guys please help me







Arc Mini and Midi have same hight spacers


----------



## lurker2501

What is the size of the Arc Midi power led and are there white aftermarket replacements for it?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> What is the size of the Arc Midi power led and are there white aftermarket replacements for it?


Pretty sure it's the same as the R4 so it'll be 3mm.

You can buy a pre-wired 2 pin 3mm LED on ebay. I think they are made by Mod/Smart.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Good afternoon guys and gals,

I recently purchased a FD Arc Midi 2 and I am waiting on all the parts to come in.

Here is what I have planned.

i7-3770k
AS Rock Extreme 6 Motherboard
Crucial Ballistix Low Profile 16GB Ram (2x8GB)
Corsair H110 in push pull
Sandisk 240GB SSD
Seagate 1TB Hard Drive
Havent ordered GPU yet but going with a 7950. I am partial to AMD for cost/performance
Cooler Master Power Supply

I am just wondering if the below cooling diagram will be enough based on your expert opinions. I am by no means an expert and have built computers before but not to this magnitude and just, like I said, want your personal professional opinions.

http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/e..._design_arc_midi_r2_2_plannedcooling.jpg.html

Any other recommendations will be great! I am not much of a Modder or anything but wouldnt mind it. I am trying to keep a Black/Gray/White/Yellow Theme on the build.


----------



## falcon26

I still don't know if I should ditch my corsaur 550D for the R4. I bought the R4 window for like $70 and its been sitting in my closet for about a week now. Man what to do....


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> Good afternoon guys and gals,
> 
> I recently purchased a FD Arc Midi 2 and I am waiting on all the parts to come in.
> 
> Here is what I have planned.
> 
> i7-3770k
> AS Rock Extreme 6 Motherboard
> Crucial Ballistix Low Profile 16GB Ram (2x8GB)
> Corsair H110 in push pull
> Sandisk 240GB SSD
> Seagate 1TB Hard Drive
> Havent ordered GPU yet but going with a 7950. I am partial to AMD for cost/performance
> Cooler Master Power Supply
> 
> I am just wondering if the below cooling diagram will be enough based on your expert opinions. I am by no means an expert and have built computers before but not to this magnitude and just, like I said, want your personal professional opinions.
> 
> http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/e..._design_arc_midi_r2_2_plannedcooling.jpg.html
> 
> Any other recommendations will be great! I am not much of a Modder or anything but wouldnt mind it. I am trying to keep a Black/Gray/White/Yellow Theme on the build.


Sorry H110 do not fit in that case. Arc Midi R2 uses standard 15mm mounting. H110 is for Corsair cases that uses 20mm spacing.
Buy the Swiftech H220.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

I was going based on the Case Compatibility Thread here. It should fit on the front if I am not mistaken.



I mean I did not spend too much money on it but that was the idea when I purchased it. I guess I can wait til I get everything and go from there. Its all about thinking smart. I appreciate the input and definitely will look at the switftech.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> I was going based on the Case Compatibility Thread here. It should fit on the front if I am not mistaken.
> I mean I did not spend too much money on it but that was the idea when I purchased it. I guess I can wait til I get everything and go from there. Its all about thinking smart. I appreciate the input and definitely will look at the switftech.


Seen that, not all mounting points are being used. Due to spacing from what I see.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Looking at it you are right. Since I spent $45 on it Ill give it a whirl and see what I can do and if not, Ill put it up on eBay and look into another way of cooling. Thanks SpeedJunki +Rep


----------



## gdubc

A quick dremel job and you will have new mounting holes.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> Looking at it you are right. Since I spent $45 on it Ill give it a whirl and see what I can do and if not, Ill put it up on eBay and look into another way of cooling. Thanks SpeedJunki +Rep


$45 is cheap for that. For that price I would keep it for now. The NZXT X60 is the exact same as H110, except it uses 15mm spacing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> A quick dremel job and you will have new mounting holes.


Its not that simple. Its not flushed, there is 2 different heights to screw into. Plus being plastic is little more work to do.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Pretty sure it's the same as the R4 so it'll be 3mm.
> 
> You can buy a pre-wired 2 pin 3mm LED on ebay. I think they are made by Mod/Smart.


Ok, thanks, ordered some. Will post a result picture when it arrives.


----------



## gdubc

I used a dremel to attach the kraken in the front of mine and i can still pop the front open enough to remove and clean the dust filter. Took me literally five minutes.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I used a dremel to attach the kraken in the front of mine and i can still pop the front open enough to remove and clean the dust filter. Took me literally five minutes.


Dust filter dont affect rad mount.
Take some photos.


----------



## gdubc

I couldn't understand what you meant by uneven mounting and of course I knew the filter wouldn't affect the way the radiator is mounted but I went back and reread the original post and yes I'm an idiot. I have the define r4 not the midi. Sorry for confusion


----------



## pokpok




----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokpok*


Awesome job on the cable management. Do you have any detailed pictures of the holes you made?


----------



## lurker2501

Saw this of on failbook today


----------



## newone757

that is sexy


----------



## zinfinion

Just a heads up for Arc Midi R2 owners or wanters. The front panel audio and fan controller cables use modular connectors which can be unplugged from the front panel. Less extraneous cables to tidy if you aren't planning on using either of those features.

The side panels are also swappable for those who aren't fans of case windows.









Super slick case, very pleased with it. Hopefully I should get around to doing a guts swap in the next week or so, still gotta check on some parts.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> The side panels are also swappable for those who aren't fans of case windows.


Oh... swappable with the type used for the Define R4? Or rather, is there an option for a Midi R2 steel side panel with a fan mount built into it? I'm thinking about one of these two cases.


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Oh... swappable with the type used for the Define R4? Or rather, is there an option for a Midi R2 steel side panel with a fan mount built into it? I'm thinking about one of these two cases.


Swappable as in you can swap which side the solid and windowed panel are on. My window is now on the motherboard tray side and will be up against a wall. Too many LEDs shining through windows for me.

As far as swapping with other cases, no idea. You might try contacting Fractal. I'm going to see if I can get a replacement solid side panel so I can ditch the windowed one entirely.


----------



## AndySarsen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Saw this of on failbook today


Great white buffalo.


----------



## adi518

Hmmm... white Node... :me gusta:


----------



## dezmick

Can anyone tell me if the side panel for the Arc Midi R2 and the Define R4 are the same, I am getting both but I want the smoke glass on the R4 and the clear glass on Arc Midi R2, so basically I want to switch windowed side panels between the two cases. Thanks: Mick


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the side panel for the Arc Midi R2 and the Define R4 are the same, I am getting both but I want the smoke glass on the R4 and the clear glass on Arc Midi R2, so basically I want to switch windowed side panels between the two cases. Thanks: Mick


They are indeed identical.


----------



## dezmick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> They are indeed identical.


Thanks, I was pretty sure that they were, I am just glad that I will be able to do what I want to do. The best thing is that I just got the Arc Midi R2 from Amazon for $69.00


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Thanks, I was pretty sure that they were, I am just glad that I will be able to do what I want to do. The best thing is that I just got the Arc Midi R2 from Amazon for $69.00


Makes me jealous seeing how cheap you guys can get these cases.
Cheapest in Norway at the moment is ~$120.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if the side panel for the Arc Midi R2 and the Define R4 are the same, I am getting both but I want the smoke glass on the R4 and the clear glass on Arc Midi R2, so basically I want to switch windowed side panels between the two cases. Thanks: Mick


They are the same (pm sent)


----------



## PCModderMike

Probably been thrown around in here a lot...so sorry if being repetitive. But how well does the H100 fit into the top of an R4?


----------



## Jason7890

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Saw this of on failbook today


Looks damn good,gonna be buying two as the gf wants aswell.Awesome case,the white really works on it.


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> [...]I am just wondering if the below cooling diagram will be enough based on your expert opinions. I am by no means an expert and have built computers before but not to this magnitude and just, like I said, want your personal professional opinions.
> 
> http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/e..._design_arc_midi_r2_2_plannedcooling.jpg.html


That's pretty much the same airflow pattern that I'm using with my Arc Midi R2 with the only difference being that I have a 120mm intake on the bottom, as well. It's working out quite nicely!


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScottAllyn*
> 
> That's pretty much the same airflow pattern that I'm using with my Arc Midi R2 with the only difference being that I have a 120mm intake on the bottom, as well. It's working out quite nicely!


Yep, I will be doing this as well, pretty much. Removing the top drive bay, and putting a spare 140 on the bottom. Bottom front will remain empty, no real point blowing it against the full bottom drive cage.


----------



## Jaren1

Rocking the red ate the moment

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jarenmorrisphotography/8799948159/
IMG_47191 by awdftw!, on Flickr
Flickr is mo betta


----------



## Apolladan

what are the chances of a fractal design r5 at computex?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Probably been thrown around in here a lot...so sorry if being repetitive. But how well does the H100 fit into the top of an R4?


Not sure if this was answered or not, but an H100 will fit at the top if you offset it from the 120 mounting holes.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Not sure if this was answered or not, but an H100 will fit at the top if you offset it from the 120 mounting holes.


Excellent vid about the DefineR4 case, demonstrates 240 radiator mounting in the top in some detail, you may need to offset to the left to leave room for DIMM slots depending on the mobo. Also shows off other details of the case.


----------



## CaCP3RO




----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Not sure if this was answered or not, but an H100 will fit at the top if you offset it from the 120 mounting holes.


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Excellent vid about the DefineR4 case, demonstrates 240 radiator mounting in the top in some detail, you may need to offset to the left to leave room for DIMM slots depending on the mobo. Also shows off other details of the case.


Thanks for that, it was an excellent video.


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Thanks.


Of course! Gotta help a fellow Carolinian out..







Are you planning on making an R4 build in the near future? I would hate to see that beautiful SM5 dismantled.


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Of course! Gotta help a fellow Carolinian out..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you planning on making an R4 build in the near future? I would hate to see that beautiful SM5 dismantled.


Just tossing ideas around.


----------



## karupt

Anybody got a Noctua NF-A15 to fit in the R4 rear exhaust?


----------



## Joining

Just finished my build in the R4. So far fitting all the cables in the back was an ordeal.


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joining*
> 
> Just finished my build in the R4. So far fitting all the cables in the back was an ordeal.


SSD's behind the mobo? Anything in the optical bays? Super tidy.


----------



## Joining

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> SSD's behind the mobo? Anything in the optical bays? Super tidy.


Just one behind the mobo tray. Nothing in the optical bays but i plan to add a hdd in the future in there.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> I was going based on the Case Compatibility Thread here. It should fit on the front if I am not mistaken.
> 
> 
> 
> I mean I did not spend too much money on it but that was the idea when I purchased it. I guess I can wait til I get everything and go from there. Its all about thinking smart. I appreciate the input and definitely will look at the switftech.


hey, your build is very interesting.

the fans of the radiator in the front are in push/pull? or just push/push? how good are the temperatures?


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joining*
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished my build in the R4. So far fitting all the cables in the back was an ordeal.


Was it easy to change out the LED? I don't want to break anything and I assume its held with glue?


----------



## Sirlindorf12

Morning Guys

Just wanted to show off my First computer build and figured this would be the place to go since its an R4 in WHITE!!!! Let me know what you guys think of her.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sirlindorf12*


Nice and clean!









Welcome to OCN!


----------



## JAM3S121

Thinking about using a arc midi r2 as my next case for my haswell build, my switch 810 is nice but its only air cooled and its just way to big.. but i needed a case that would fit sli with a weird spacing pci-e lanes at the time (my motherboard had terrible spacing so i needed a full tower.)

I got some questions
1) Does the black finish seem to be pretty good? Is it durable? Everything match? My switch 810 there are very noticable differences from the metal to the plastic on the white version, and my old CM 690II got scratched very easily.

2) How big is the window? I read through the thread and it seems the R4 window fits the midi r2, but I have no clue if either look different.. in some pics the window seems small but I can't find any good pics of a case filled with parts. Could someone post up a picture?

3) How good are the dust filters/easy of cleaning? Sadly the area I live in sucks, its a dirt road and literally everyone in my house tracks a large amount of sand/dirt into my house its impossible to keep my cases dust free.

I'm looking to fill one of these fractals up with a new i7 haswell cpu, gtx 780 or sli gtx 770, swiftech h220 cpu cooler, 16gbs of ram, a new ssd and two mechanical seagate momentus XT drives.

I really like the look of the R4 but I really don't understand how it can cool effectively, with the front panel being blocked off doesn't this severly limit the "cool" air flow? I know some good static pressure fans can still push air but isn't just pushing a much smaller amount of air?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Thinking about using a arc midi r2 as my next case for my haswell build, my switch 810 is nice but its only air cooled and its just way to big.. but i needed a case that would fit sli with a weird spacing pci-e lanes at the time (my motherboard had terrible spacing so i needed a full tower.)
> 
> I got some questions
> 1) Does the black finish seem to be pretty good? Is it durable? Everything match? My switch 810 there are very noticable differences from the metal to the plastic on the white version, and my old CM 690II got scratched very easily.
> 
> 2) How big is the window? I read through the thread and it seems the R4 window fits the midi r2, but I have no clue if either look different.. in some pics the window seems small but I can't find any good pics of a case filled with parts. Could someone post up a picture?
> 
> 3) How good are the dust filters/easy of cleaning? Sadly the area I live in sucks, its a dirt road and literally everyone in my house tracks a large amount of sand/dirt into my house its impossible to keep my cases dust free.
> 
> I'm looking to fill one of these fractals up with a new i7 haswell cpu, gtx 780 or sli gtx 770, swiftech h220 cpu cooler, 16gbs of ram, a new ssd and two mechanical seagate momentus XT drives.
> 
> I really like the look of the R4 but I really don't understand how it can cool effectively, with the front panel being blocked off doesn't this severly limit the "cool" air flow? I know some good static pressure fans can still push air but isn't just pushing a much smaller amount of air?


My thoughts exactly. I assume swinging the front door open on the R4 gives a good increase in airflow for when you really need it, and keeping it closed when your not killing zombie hordes makes for super silence.


----------



## Sirlindorf12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Nice and clean!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to OCN!


Thanks for the Welcome hope to be water cooling the R4 soon. Could I post a parts list here and get some advice from you guys. Or is that done in
another part of this forum?


----------



## Joining

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> Was it easy to change out the LED? I don't want to break anything and I assume its held with glue?


I went on frozencpu and got myself a 3mm led with motherboard pins and just took out the old one and put in the new one. Very simple process but you might want to superglue in place since it tends to get loose.


----------



## OzMan84

I unscrewed / unplugged the button and it would wobble but not come out.....? any ideas?


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> I unscrewed / unplugged the button and it would wobble but not come out.....? any ideas?


To get the LED out of the power button in my Define Mini, I had to carefully wiggle it for quite a while. It's a very, very tight friction fit once you remove any hot-snot/glue that's covering it.


----------



## OmarCCX

I solved my LED problem by disconnecting the Power LED from the motherboard. I'd rather have no light than that ridiculously bright red LED on my case.


----------



## Lauen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apolladan*
> 
> what are the chances of a fractal design r5 at computex?


I'd say chances are quite slim, as the R4 is almost brand new. it isn't even a year old, atleast from I remember.

I'd say we're looking at new mini cases. or maybe an Arc XL.


----------



## Lauen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Thinking about using a arc midi r2 as my next case for my haswell build, my switch 810 is nice but its only air cooled and its just way to big.. but i needed a case that would fit sli with a weird spacing pci-e lanes at the time (my motherboard had terrible spacing so i needed a full tower.)
> 
> I got some questions
> 1) Does the black finish seem to be pretty good? Is it durable? Everything match? My switch 810 there are very noticable differences from the metal to the plastic on the white version, and my old CM 690II got scratched very easily.
> 
> 2) How big is the window? I read through the thread and it seems the R4 window fits the midi r2, but I have no clue if either look different.. in some pics the window seems small but I can't find any good pics of a case filled with parts. Could someone post up a picture?
> 
> 3) How good are the dust filters/easy of cleaning? Sadly the area I live in sucks, its a dirt road and literally everyone in my house tracks a large amount of sand/dirt into my house its impossible to keep my cases dust free.
> 
> I'm looking to fill one of these fractals up with a new i7 haswell cpu, gtx 780 or sli gtx 770, swiftech h220 cpu cooler, 16gbs of ram, a new ssd and two mechanical seagate momentus XT drives.
> 
> I really like the look of the R4 but I really don't understand how it can cool effectively, with the front panel being blocked off doesn't this severly limit the "cool" air flow? I know some good static pressure fans can still push air but isn't just pushing a much smaller amount of air?


1) I have an R4, and the finish on it is very nice, it doesn't scratch all that easily. I have managed to get a few scratches, but no major ones, and I usually take my computer to a LAN once or twice a month. The paint is somewhat nicely matched, I find the black on the front just a little more grey-ish than the rest. the steel panels are perfect.

2) on a Arc R2 and an R4, it goes from right above the PSU and up to the top of the motherboard. it does not show the hard drives, and does not show optical drives. And also, just look back in this thread, you can find pretty much anything with a Fractal case.

3) when I clean mine, I just take off a filter, and blow it out, usually I blow quite hard (lol) and I try to be as thorough as possible. or I use compressed air and blow it out.

as for the intake, I have an ASUS GTX660Ti, overclocked to 1075 MHz core, and 1702 MHz memory, and i keep an ambient temp of about 20, and I usually never go above 75 degrees Centigrade / Celsius with fans at maximum 60% speed, and two 140's in the front, stock Fractal ones, which I run at 7 volt.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Just waiting on Processor and GPU and then I can fully assemble!  Cant wait

http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/erbaker67/media/IMG_0739.jpg.html


----------



## JAM3S121

nice color fans, i would kill to paint the white drive slots and hdd clips yellow to match


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> nice color fans, i would kill to paint the white drive slots and hdd clips yellow to match


I thought about that. I didnt want to kill the white. I am going for Yellow/Black/Gray/White for the Pittsburgh Penguins. I got some thinking to do now lol.


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OmarCCX*
> 
> I solved my LED problem by disconnecting the Power LED from the motherboard. I'd rather have no light than that ridiculously bright red LED on my case.


What about if I just create a custom cable and solder one of these on the end and place it up near the current one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3mm-WHITE-LED-Light-Emitting-Diode-Bulk-Pack-15-PCs-/180737335971?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item2a14c8e2a3&_uhb=1


----------



## Eggy88

Planning a build at the end of the summer (waiting to see what 1150 brings) and i'm stuck between the Arc Mini and Midi R2.
I want to have it as small as possible and watercool the cpu + Gpu(s)

Couple of questions:

- In the Mini will i be able to move the lower harddrivecage towards the PSU (like in the Midi) and mount a 240mm rad in the front? I know that i will have to find a way to bolt the cage to the case but just want to know it there is room there, i'm thinking of a EK XT 240 + fans (total of 47+25mm=72mm) According to my "calculations" there is space so can anyone see if something is way of. or provide me with accurate measurements on how long the case is Internal and how wide the harddrive cage is.

Case is 405mm, take away about 30mm for the front bezel and you have 375mm. (any acurate measurements here?)
140mm for the psu
Harddrive cage is about 95mm (any acurate measurements here?)
72mm for the rad+fans
That leaves 68mm for routing the cables out of the PSU

If that fails i can use a thinner rad (i know that there is a number of 240mm rads that are from 30-40mm thick)

- Has anyone found some 2x5.25" cages that converts to 3x3.5" and still leaves room for the top 240mm rad (space looks a bit tight with the rad in the top. I have a lot of drives that i want to house so thinking that i will keep the lower 3 and add another 3 in the 5.25" bays.

The plan is to start of with a 1150 Cpu + GTX 780 and then i might add a second 780 later on. I guess 480mm (2x 240mm) will be enough for this.


----------



## sendjes

Hi.

I've an old XL, and just ordered the Mini, and was wondering, is it possible to mount SSD's behind the motherboard in any way? Or is there not enough space between the sidepanel and the motherboard backplate?

Or do you have any other suggestions on how to "hide" SSD's? Total number of SSD's will be 2 max 3.

Hope my questions made sense.

ps. great forum.


----------



## Sirlindorf12

Hello there guys and gals of OCN I just recently posted a pic of my build in the R4. Now I am getting ready to watercool my build and just thinking of posting a parts list since I am new to watercooling to see what you guys think about what I am planning.

1. EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Nickel (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ - Nickel)
2. Mayhems Pastel Coolant Concentrate - 250mL - Pure Black
3. PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 1/2"ID x 3/4" OD - 10ft Retail Pack - Clear (PFLEXA10-34)
4. EK D5 X-RES Top 140 - Acetal - Laing D5 / Swiftech MCP655-B/655/655-PWM
5. Swiftech MCP655-PWM-DRIVE 12v Water Pump Module - PWM Enabled (Single Version)
6. Monsoon Free Center Compression Fitting - 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD - Modders 6 Pack Gold (FCC-1234-6P-GO)

I also have a few questions. I really do want to use a 280mm radiator from Alphacool but I saw the 240mm White one from them as well
which do you guys think would look better? I am slightly leaning for the white just to break up the black in the build. Also since this is my first build
should I get extra fittings just to be sure that I am covered on all fronts. I was thinking of mounting the rad in the front but I saw something online
that someone did and they mounted the rad and pump and res all in one neat little package could I do that on the floor of the R4. Here is the link to that idea what do you guys think. 




So just a few questions for my first watercooled build I would greatly appreciate the help and knowledge you guys posses.


----------



## JAM3S121

Def gonna buy a arc midi 2 this summer, do the drive cages come with ssd compatabiliy? I am not mounting those behind motherboard.


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Def gonna buy a arc midi 2 this summer, do the drive cages come with ssd compatabiliy? I am not mounting those behind motherboard.


Yup. There are screw holes for SSDs that center it in the middle of the drive sled.


----------



## JAM3S121

cool, I'm hoping to be putting two mechanicals and a ssd. Looking at a new haswell i7, h220 cooler expanded to include a gtx 780 hopefully


----------



## Azefore

Bought an Arc Midi R2 from NCIX yesterday for their memorial weekend sale for $60. Going to be doing my Haswell build in it hopefully, with a 4770k and maybe the new 780 or a 8XXX card depending on release date.

Now time to lurk through other builds for inspiration


----------



## dudenell

I got a R4 from NCIX for a file server.

Are there screwless drive bays available somewhere else that will fit? How about hotswap bays?


----------



## newone757

Got my new card!

I actually planned on going with green LED everything to match it but I kind of like the contrast with the blue. Hmmm


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dudenell*
> 
> How about hotswap bays?


http://www.icydock.com/index.php


----------



## ceaze one

Had to hop on this... was way too good of a deal to pass up









I love brushed aluminum cases, especially Lian Li, but I'm tired of the fingerprints!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> 
> 
> Had to hop on this... was way too good of a deal to pass up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love brushed aluminum cases, especially Lian Li, but I'm tired of the fingerprints!


Where at?


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Where at?


Opps sorry.. It's part of NCIX's Memorial Day Sale:

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227&vpn=Arc%20Midi%20R2&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1281

I don't know how long the sale will last but it's still listed as $65/shipped at this time (12:49 am EST)


----------



## stnz

Received my windowed R4 this afternoon, I jumped on the occasion while it was at 79.99 at NCIX. Anybody seen it at a lower price ?
I'll probably get a Midi R2 for my gf later on and switch the windowed pannels.

Here's my part list, just in case : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/stnz/saved/
I'm going for a white & black scheme as explained here.

Now, question time !

Did any of you tried to rotate the bottom HDD bay ? If I can't, my problem is that I have 2 HDD & 1 SSD, the SSD can go behind the MOBO, that I know, one can go in the optical bay, but since I'm planning on getting a DVD drive (quite useless these days, but I still burn stuff time to time), where would the second HDD go ? Any idea ?

Second question is a fan question ! I'll use the same kind of airflow mentionned by iworkatstapples (and I work at staples too ! What a coincidence !), anyway, I'm planning on getting 4 x AF120 and 2 x SP120 (as replacement for the H100i fans), how to set them up to achieve this airflow ? This is my first build, I didn't go that far in the airflow route so far. I would place 1 at the back, 1 at the bottom and 2 at the front (also I'm starting to wonder if the bottom is truly useful if I cannot rotate the bottom HDD bay or remove entirely and still place my 3 HDDs).

Thanks guys, hoping to see some good answers


----------



## OzMan84

Just wondering if anyone else faces the same problem as me, I can't get a 3.5 HDD in the top drive bay?


----------



## Eggy88

Trying this again:

- Can someone provide me with accurate measurements on how long the case is internal (talking at the bottom, from the rear to the front (want to see how much space i have to play with) and how wide the harddrive cage is (at the widest point)

- Can i mount a 280mm Rad in the top?


----------



## OzMan84

Thought I would contribute my first helpful idea - not sure if its been posted on here but couldn't find it in my search. Hope someone finds it helpful.

When sleeving Fractal Design Silent Fans, I couldn't fit the sleeve cables under the little plastic things on the chassis (that hold the cables down in a straight line) and I was toying with the idea of buying a $200 Dremel Kit but I don't know how often I would actually use it.

So I got my Xacto Knife, made a dent in the plastic by trying to cut it, got a flathead screw drive under the little clip and pulled the screw driver up.

This broke off the clips in a straight line without cracking any of the fan chassis. To hold the cables down a little PVA Glue or superglue will do the trick.

I am hoping to finally start sleeving soon, still waiting on my goodies from overseas.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Opps sorry.. It's part of NCIX's Memorial Day Sale:
> 
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227&vpn=Arc%20Midi%20R2&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1281
> 
> I don't know how long the sale will last but it's still listed as $65/shipped at this time (12:49 am EST)


I got one...could not pass up that price...no shipping even! +rep! :-D


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Got my new card!
> 
> I actually planned on going with green LED everything to match it but I kind of like the contrast with the blue. Hmmm


I agree. That looks Killer! Nice work!


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Opps sorry.. It's part of NCIX's Memorial Day Sale:
> 
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227&vpn=Arc%20Midi%20R2&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1281
> 
> I don't know how long the sale will last but it's still listed as $65/shipped at this time (12:49 am EST)


case: 69 dollars








shipping: 176 dollars


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Trying this again:
> 
> - Can someone provide me with accurate measurements on how long the case is internal (talking at the bottom, from the rear to the front (want to see how much space i have to play with) and how wide the harddrive cage is (at the widest point)
> 
> - Can i mount a 280mm Rad in the top?


Which case?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Trying this again:
> 
> - Can someone provide me with accurate measurements on how long the case is internal (talking at the bottom, from the rear to the front (want to see how much space i have to play with) and how wide the harddrive cage is (at the widest point)
> 
> - Can i mount a 280mm Rad in the top?


If you talking about Arc Midi R2 280 top, it will vary on what mobo is being used? So you would need to own the case and exact mobo to check for clearance.
in the front you can mount a 280 rad, but that also varies with model.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you talking about Arc Midi R2 280 top, it will vary on what mobo is being used? So you would need to own the case and exact mobo to check for clearance.
> in the front you can mount a 280 rad, but that also varies with model.


I can confirm that with the AS Rock Extreme 6 Z77 Motherboard it would fit if you do not have a fan on the back. I had such a hard time with the h110 though that I got a h100 instead. It was mountable on the front though if you wish.


----------



## ebduncan

I got around to installing the 2nd radiator. Alpha Cool XT45 installed up front. Sadly I didn't get to put the GPU water block on yet, the wrong one came in the mail. I have a 7970 water block for a 7950. Have to send it back and have them send the correct block. I painted the rear expansion slot covers black, the white was tacky in my case.

Still waiting on 5.25" drive bay adapter to 3.5", to move my hard drive from the bottom to the top of the case. SSD's are not pictured are mounted to the back of the motherboard tray. Still not sure what I am doing to do with the second hard drive There is space above the 5.25" drive bays where the front panel Usb, and audio/power. Will have to reroute the cables to go another route but the drive should fit up there nicely. Leave me with 4 hidden hard drives, and still keep my optical drive.

Coming along nicely. Temps are awesome


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Looks great! Cant wait to see the finished product.


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> I agree. That looks Killer! Nice work!


Thanks bud!


----------



## stnz

Any answers to *THIS* ?


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Received my windowed R4 this afternoon, I jumped on the occasion while it was at 79.99 at NCIX. Anybody seen it at a lower price ?
> I'll probably get a Midi R2 for my gf later on and switch the windowed pannels.
> 
> Here's my part list, just in case : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/stnz/saved/
> I'm going for a white & black scheme as explained here.
> 
> Now, question time !
> 
> Did any of you tried to rotate the bottom HDD bay ? If I can't, my problem is that I have 2 HDD & 1 SSD, the SSD can go behind the MOBO, that I know, one can go in the optical bay, but since I'm planning on getting a DVD drive (quite useless these days, but I still burn stuff time to time), where would the second HDD go ? Any idea ?
> 
> Second question is a fan question ! I'll use the same kind of airflow mentionned by iworkatstapples (and I work at staples too ! What a coincidence !), anyway, I'm planning on getting 4 x AF120 and 2 x SP120 (as replacement for the H100i fans), how to set them up to achieve this airflow ? This is my first build, I didn't go that far in the airflow route so far. I would place 1 at the back, 1 at the bottom and 2 at the front (also I'm starting to wonder if the bottom is truly useful if I cannot rotate the bottom HDD bay or remove entirely and still place my 3 HDDs).
> 
> Thanks guys, hoping to see some good answers


First Question: Use an Adapter to mount one hdd into the 5,25 bay and than drill some holes and skrew the second one under the bay. Than throw the ssd wherever you like









I´m still on my build so sorry for that mess...


Second Question: I would built on quiet a positive preassure.
Like 2 AF as Intake at the front, one intake at the bottom and rear intake (with a dustfilter on it thought.

Sorry for short answer I´m on the phone -__-
Just pm me if you have more questions..


----------



## stnz

Yeah, under the optical bay sounds good, I'll check if the holes that are there feet or if I need to drill some new ones, I'll throw the SSD behind the mobo and the second hdd in the optical bay. Concerning the fans, how do you set one as intake or exhaust ? You simply flip them ? It's dumb I know but I just want to make sure. What do you mean by building on quiet a positive pressure ? Detail when you'll be at home please







. Thanks a lot for your answer though !


----------



## Eggy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Trying this again:
> 
> - Can someone provide me with accurate measurements on how long the case is internal (talking at the bottom, from the rear to the front (want to see how much space i have to play with) and how wide the harddrive cage is (at the widest point)
> 
> - Can i mount a 280mm Rad in the top?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> Which case?


Arc Mini

Looking at some other pictures i'm pretty sure a 280mm wont work.

But would still love some accurate measurements concerning the things mentioned.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Arc Mini
> 
> Looking at some other pictures i'm pretty sure a 280mm wont work.
> 
> But would still love some accurate measurements concerning the things mentioned.


u can fit a 280 rad in the top of a arc midi, but alot will depend on motherboard clearance ie what motherboard you have, and if it has any tall heat sinks or memory. I'd just stick with the 240 not much space is gained with a 280 over a 240, and u have better fan options with the 240.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Yeah, under the optical bay sounds good, I'll check if the holes that are there feet or if I need to drill some new ones, I'll throw the SSD behind the mobo and the second hdd in the optical bay. Concerning the fans, how do you set one as intake or exhaust ? You simply flip them ? It's dumb I know but I just want to make sure. What do you mean by building on quiet a positive pressure ? Detail when you'll be at home please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks a lot for your answer though !


You´ll propable need to drill new ones (I needed on the Arc Midi R1). When you Mount your drive, don´t Forget to put some anti-Vibration stuff like this, between it, the screws and the metal.
Fans always blow air in the direction the sticker faces:


(here out of your monitor :O )

So you would Need to flip them, that the sticker faces inside the case.

Positive preassure is when you have more fans taking air in than out (prefereable dustfiltered).
In your case it would look like this:


(Magic paint skills....)

Hope I helped you out


----------



## stnz

You helped a lot ! Truly appreciated my dear


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Man, looks like my processor wont be here until Monday now :-(. Everything is in just waiting on that.


----------



## stnz

It's okay, mine is taking at least another 2 weeks so enjoy !


----------



## Luke88

After a rainy month I've been finally able to take some photos of my R4 outside








Enjoy



http://imgur.com/Rs8eUAJ




http://imgur.com/SiPpLY8


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Hot damn. That is sexy! Great work and stunning pictures!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luke88*
> 
> After a rainy month I've been finally able to take some photos of my R4 outside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Rs8eUAJ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SiPpLY8


That looks great! Such a clean case, makes me really want to do a build in one.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luke88*
> 
> After a rainy month I've been finally able to take some photos of my R4 outside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Rs8eUAJ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SiPpLY8


Wow ! A top quality build ! And that is actually truly close to what I am trying to do with mine, odly.
I'm still waiting on some parts though, but I chose the same RAM, the same cooler, the only difference being the mobo.
I took the Mpower over the sabertooth it'll sure feat with the scheme as well especially since I'm planning on painting those yellow stickers in white.

Questions though, where did you buy the NB-eLoop, how well does it perform and how much did you pay for it ? What are the other fans ? The stock fans ?

Another question, why not putting the SSD behind the motherboard and the HDD in the Optical bay ?
It would allow even better airflow and look even nicer IMO









PS : Really nice sleeving my dear, wish I could do that for mine :/

Last question : what do you guys here think about the 140mm stock fans ? (these)


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Another question, why not putting the SSD behind the motherboard and the HDD in the Optical bay ?
> It would allow even better airflow and look even nicer IMO


Yeah and then throw another fan on the bottom to provide extra cool air to the graphics card


----------



## Abula

Im about to buy R4, just wondering if any owners from classic R4 also bought the Windowed version, if you saw any difference in noise? more wondering if the window version would dampen less because of the acrylic and less bitumen....


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Yeah and then throw another fan on the bottom to provide extra cool air to the graphics card


That was obviously implied my dear !

Abula, I have not owned the classic R4 myself but the answer to your question is *yes*, there is a difference in term of noise levels, and you can find confirmation about that pretty much all over the internet. If you're aiming for the quietest system possible, forget about the window, if you want a truly decent noise level but a window, then it is the option to go with !


----------



## Luke88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Wow ! A top quality build ! And that is actually truly close to what I am trying to do with mine, odly.
> 
> *Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> Questions though, where did you buy the NB-eLoop, how well does it perform and how much did you pay for it ? What are the other fans ? The stock fans ?
> 
> *I'm really satisfied with the eLoops , I"ve got 3 of them, 2 on the radiator, 1 in the rear, spinning at 1000rpm and they're dead silent.
> I've bought the fans here in Italy, the shop is ybris-cooling.it
> I paid 19 euros for each one.
> I've putted the 2 fractal 140s in the top and they're good too*
> 
> Another question, why not putting the SSD behind the motherboard and the HDD in the Optical bay ?
> It would allow even better airflow and look even nicer IMO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cause it 's easier to swap drives mounting them in the standard cage.
> My purpose was building a nice looking system, but also easier to work with it if I have to change something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Cause it 's easier to swap drives mounting them in the standard cage.
> My purpose was building a nice looking system, but also easier to work with it if I have to change something


Well, congratulations, you entirely succeeded !

Which fans would you guys advise me to take ? I would be searching for a black chassis and white blades, 140mm, but under 20$ a pop, I cannot even purchase the E-loop here in Canada, can't find it anywhere, for now I'm looking at either the fractal design Fan or the FN 140 from NZXT, any ideas ?


----------



## gdubc

Arctic F14 or the F14pwm model are decent. The pwm model has a pwm sharing lead.


----------



## youyou

kinda hard to mount the h100i on this mobo, but it's done


----------



## Gubz

Just a _small_ teaser







.



Gonna be a total of 5x120 radiators in an Arc mini.


----------



## newone757

WHoah!


----------



## Seid Dark

Is it possible to mount SSD's behind motherboard tray in the old Arc Midi? I'm planning to also install my hard drives to 5,25" bays with Scythe Himuro HDD coolers.


----------



## zinfinion

Anyone else's Fractal fans that came with the case sound like buzzsaws? Just did my swap and not exactly pleased with the fan noise...

Never mind, swapped headers, all's good now. Guess they don't like to run at a full 12V.


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zinfinion*
> 
> Anyone else's Fractal fans that came with the case sound like buzzsaws? Just did my swap and not exactly pleased with the fan noise...


I think mine did when mounted horizontally. Frustrating because they were pretty nice @ 7v in the front and back but if I moved one to the top it got very noisy. For now I have no fans on top of the R4 and waiting on some new phanteks to come in that are supposed to be really nice


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> I think mine did when mounted horizontally. Frustrating because they were pretty nice @ 7v in the front and back but if I moved one to the top it got very noisy. For now I have no fans on top of the R4 and waiting on some new phanteks to come in that are supposed to be really nice


Ah yeah. It was the top two. Interesting. Running at 60% controlled by the BIOS now and it's pretty much a whisper.


----------



## Seid Dark

I'm pretty sure Fractal stock fans have sleeve bearings, those usually make more noise when mounted horizontally. Sleeve bearings are cheaper so that's probably why they chose them.


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I'm pretty sure Fractal stock fans have sleeve bearings, those usually make more noise when mounted horizontally. Sleeve bearings are cheaper so that's probably why they chose them.


They say they are hydraulic bearing fans. All mine are whisper silent


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Is it possible to mount SSD's behind motherboard tray in the old Arc Midi? I'm planning to also install my hard drives to 5,25" bays with Scythe Himuro HDD coolers.


They don't have screws on the back like R2 does, but you can always buy some velcro/double sided tape and place it there to get the same effect.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Just a _small_ teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be a total of 5x120 radiators in an Arc mini.


Nice. I am also running a lot of radiator in my arc midi  240x60mm and a 280x45mm. You are taking it one notch higher by also removing the top 5.25" bays and going with a 360 radiator up top. Guess you won't have much room for hard drives and such.

I have 4 drives 2, 2.5" SSD's mounted to the back of the motherboard, and 2 3.5" disk drives cleverly mounted in the top 5.25" bay. Then my optical drive (blu-ray), yes i still use it!


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Just a _small_ teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be a total of 5x120 radiators in an Arc mini.


Love it! Seeing tons of radiator space crammed neatly into a tiny Fractal case is always exciting. Would love to see more!









Just got one of these to store my HDD's and SSD's so that I can completely knock out the 3.5" cage for more radiator space, and one of these so that I can still work with optical discs (seems I'm a bit old fashioned!)

My Define Mini so far (no pics of new parts yet, sorry!):


----------



## Incubus32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Just a _small_ teaser
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be a total of 5x120 radiators in an Arc mini.


Good job Gubz! Do you have a shot on the top of this?







might do the same to my Arc mini


----------



## afallickwang

Thinking about picking up a white R2 case.


----------



## OzMan84

Can anyone please provide a photo of the HD Audio coloured cable layout? I messed mine up :$

I currently have

BLACK
BLACK
YELLOW
-
PURPLE

ORANGE
GREEN
RED
BLUE
BROWN


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Arctic F14 or the F14pwm model are decent. The pwm model has a pwm sharing lead.


This seems to be a good choice at 16.99 while the fractal design fans are at minimum 25$ here in Canada.


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Incubus32*
> 
> Good job Gubz! Do you have a shot on the top of this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> might do the same to my Arc mini


Thank you. I'll take a picture of the top as soon as I get my camera back.

How did you mount the front rad to your case?
Kind of a dilemma for me atm, not sure how I am going to do it.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Just a pic


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> This seems to be a good choice at 16.99 while the fractal design fans are at minimum 25$ here in Canada.


You can sometimes get them on sale for cheaper at newegg like now here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186081


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You can sometimes get them on sale for cheaper at newegg like now here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186081


The only problem with this is that I am purchasing from Canada :/


----------



## gdubc

Oops..oh yeah sorry.


----------



## stnz

No problem, if anything I could try and find a way so that newegg.ca could match the price from newegg.com


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> Just a pic


Looks familiar.....


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Arctic F14 or the F14pwm model are decent. The pwm model has a pwm sharing lead.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> This seems to be a good choice at 16.99 while the fractal design fans are at minimum 25$ here in Canada.


Pretty meh.
http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-6/comparatif-ventilateurs-140mm.html

Look at the Gelid Silent 14's, they're much better.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Looks familiar.....


Yes, a little bit. Maybe this is familiar too



and this is the making of


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Pretty meh.
> http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-6/comparatif-ventilateurs-140mm.html
> Look at the Gelid Silent 14's, they're much better.


Thanks Man ! Truly appreciated

Tu es juste genial, on te l'a deja dit ? +1


----------



## shilka

Am just curious but is there anyone here that own a Fractal Design PSU?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Thanks Man ! Truly appreciated
> 
> Tu es juste genial, on te l'a deja dit ? +1


Hehe, nice that you speak french, hardware.fr has some really good articles.









Tator Tot also found out that these fans don't use FDB but Rifle (same as Bitfenix fans).


----------



## stnz

So rifle blades, it may last a little bit less but at least it'll more silent







. Thanks again Adri !

Bah évidemment que je parle le français, je suis français, haha. Et ouais, ils ont des articles plutôt pas mal.


----------



## KevGann

I'm building my first custom pc this summer and don't know which fractal design case to buy. Right now, I'm between the Arc mini and arc midi r2. I would like to go with a compact matx rig using the arc mini, but I feel like there isn't much of a difference in size between the mini and midi r2. I'm just stuck if I should go with (atx) midi or (matx) mini. *this build is for my graphic design job and gaming, and I'll be using the i5 3570k.

Thanks, sorry if this is off topic with past forum discussions.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> Yes, a little bit. Maybe this is familiar too


It does indeed....lol


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> So rifle blades, it may last a little bit less but at least it'll more silent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Was that a joke or what, I didn't get it.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> I'm building my first custom pc this summer and don't know which fractal design case to buy. Right now, I'm between the Arc mini and arc midi r2. I would like to go with a compact matx rig using the arc mini, but I feel like there isn't much of a difference in size between the mini and midi r2. I'm just stuck if I should go with (atx) midi or (matx) mini. *this build is for my graphic design job and gaming, and I'll be using the i5 3570k.
> 
> Thanks, sorry if this is off topic with past forum discussions.


I would advise the Arc Midi over the Mini, the size isn't that different and the Midi has more upgrade possibilities later on the road. More GPU length, more expansions and 140mm over 120mm, you can find more info here


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Pretty meh.
> http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-6/comparatif-ventilateurs-140mm.html
> 
> Look at the Gelid Silent 14's, they're much better.


SPCR just did a couple of 140mm round ups, no gelid though, but a lot of fans were tested, in case any in interested ,

First 140 mm Fan Roundup: Noctua, Phanteks, Xigmatek
Second 140 mm Fan Roundup: Antec, bequiet!, Corsair, Scythe


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> SPCR just did a couple of 140mm round ups, no gelid though, but a lot of fans were tested, in case any in interested ,
> 
> First 140 mm Fan Roundup: Noctua, Phanteks, Xigmatek
> Second 140 mm Fan Roundup: Antec, bequiet!, Corsair, Scythe


Dat Noctua NF-P14 FLX!







I am using 2 of these in my Arc Midi R2, one as exhaust and one as bottom intake as those were the only spots with centered 120mm holes and I didn't want to use the 140mm hole extenders.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Was that a joke or what, I didn't get it.


Nevermind, I thought rifle blade was the technology used and would more silent than FDB.. Let's say I was lost for a moment.
The Gelid use HDB instead of FDB, I don't think there is much difference anyway.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> SPCR just did a couple of 140mm round ups, no gelid though, but a lot of fans were tested, in case any in interested ,
> 
> First 140 mm Fan Roundup: Noctua, Phanteks, Xigmatek
> Second 140 mm Fan Roundup: Antec, bequiet!, Corsair, Scythe


Thank you for these links my dear !


----------



## ChesterCat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> Just a pic


Is this one of them trick pictures ? Am I supposed to see Jeezus or sumthin, if I keep staring ?

C'mon........the suspense must be killing everybody


----------



## ceaze one

HI all,

I'm happy to be joining the Fractal Design family soon with the Arc Midi R2, which I recently bought from NCIX for $65/shipped








I've been a Fractal Design fan since the first Define came out and was planning on getting the R4 but I couldn't pass up this deal on the Arc Midi R2.

I'm looking for advice on cooling with passive heatsinks with this case. Right now I have a NH-D14, 650 ti, and power supply that are all running passive and I'd like to hear opinions on the best fan configuration for my set up. I was thinking of just having the fans in a "normal" configuration like most people here have:

2 fans for intake (front panel)

2 fans for exhaust (top panel)

1 fan for exhaust at rear

And maybe an intake fan at the bottom to keep the pressure positive. If any of you air cooling gurus can chime in I'd love to hear what you have to say.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> HI all,
> 
> I'm happy to be joining the Fractal Design family soon with the Arc Midi R2, which I recently bought from NCIX for $65/shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been a Fractal Design fan since the first Define came out and was planning on getting the R4 but I couldn't pass up this deal on the Arc Midi R2.
> 
> I'm looking for advice on cooling with passive heatsinks with this case. Right now I have a NH-D14, 650 ti, and power supply that are all running passive and I'd like to hear opinions on the best fan configuration for my set up. I was thinking of just having the fans in a "normal" configuration like most people here have:
> 
> 2 fans for intake (front panel)
> 
> 2 fans for exhaust (top panel)
> 
> 1 fan for exhaust at rear
> 
> And maybe an intake fan at the bottom to keep the pressure positive. If any of you air cooling gurus can chime in I'd love to hear what you have to say.


I have the H220 in Push/Pull on top, with 2x 140mm front, 140mm bottom and 140mm rear (Front/Bottom Intake, Rear/Top exhaust)


----------



## Magnum26

Fingers crossed I'll be getting my R4 when I come back off holiday and order my Haswell system.

My question is this: I want to mount two SSDs on the back of the motherboard although I don't want to screw them directly to the back of the motherboard, I've seen some users having a tray they screw the SSDs to first then screw the trays to the back, that way if you want to change the SSDs in the future you only have to unscrew the SSD and not the trays / remove the mobo. Would any 2.5" to 3.5" like the OCZ one or something similar work or is there something better out there?

Something like this? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Mounting-Adapter-Bracket-Holder/dp/B009EO1UQ6/ref=pd_vtp_computers_1


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Fingers crossed I'll be getting my R4 when I come back off holiday and order my Haswell system.
> 
> My question is this: I want to mount two SSDs on the back of the motherboard although I don't want to screw them directly to the back of the motherboard, I've seen some users having a tray they screw the SSDs to first then screw the trays to the back, that way if you want to change the SSDs in the future you only have to unscrew the SSD and not the trays / remove the mobo. Would any 2.5" to 3.5" like the OCZ one or something similar work or is there something better out there?


I just use some decent quality velcro to mount my ssd's behind the motherboard, works great.


----------



## Magnum26

Ideally I'd like something like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/build-log-the-define-project/60_20#post_18654918


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Ideally I'd like something like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1305945/build-log-the-define-project/60_20#post_18654918


That's pretty genius.
Also easy to make yourself.


----------



## HiCZoK

Guys, what are my options of cooling cpu in my fractal 3000 ? I have 2500k in there with some not known brand cooling. it's getting about 65C on 4.2ghz but i would like to go to 4.5 and have good temps.
Can i ask for some cooler solutions suggestions ? Not too expensive, capable of handling oced 2500k (not 5ghz tho) and quiet.

also, this might help:
This is how my pc looks inside (tho the photo is outdated. As there is now one hdd and one ssd + cable management is little upgraded)
http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1275237/a/828004/fractal-design-case-club/sort/display_order/

I was also trying to make my 3000 dustproof, so I covered 2 spare grates with plexi guards raised on little feet so air can still get in or out. The front grill is also very easy to clear with vacuum cleaner btw.
Plexi guards might not be up to everyone taste but they really help with dust colelcting and not blocking air.
http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1239490/a/828004/fractal-design-case-club/sort/display_order/


----------



## adridu59

Do you have Thermalright products available in your country? Or there's always the classic Hyper 212.


----------



## HiCZoK

yes. Thermalright products are available. Are You suggesting macho hr-02 black and white ? Price is a bit high but totally affordable. Will it fit in core 3000 and asrock p67 pro3 motherboard ?
http://www.komputronik.pl/product/167944/Sprzet_komputerowy_/Podzespoly/Thermalright_HR_02_Macho_Black_White.html

hyper 212 is also available. price is lower than macho
http://www.komputronik.pl/product/148169/Sprzet_komputerowy_/Podzespoly/CoolerMaster_Hyper_212_EVO.html


----------



## adridu59

Price is lower but performance is too. For 4.5 GHz and reasonable price the Hyper 212 Evo should be fine, the HR-02 Macho is a bigger heatsink with 140mm fan if you want something beefy that packs a reasonable price.

There's also the option that's between the two in terms of price and performance and has a pretty good fan (through it's not the 140mm TY-147 that's on the big Macho):
http://www.komputronik.pl/product/181475/Sprzet_komputerowy_/Podzespoly/Thermalright_HR_02_Macho_120.html


----------



## HiCZoK

thanks, i will consider those 3. closed water loops are still too expensive for what they offer. big hr-02 scares me tho. My motherboard will break and fractal 3000 won't close side panel








Even tho it would be hard to mount and clean etc, I might still go with huge one. it is too manly not to consider it


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HiCZoK*
> 
> Even tho it would be hard to mount and clean etc, I might still go with huge one. it is too manly not to consider it


Hahaha! One day I considered buying it and made some research as to whether it would fit the Core 3000 or not:
http://forum.pcformat.pl/Fractal-Design-Core-3000-Macho-V2-t




http://www.eteknix.com/reviews/cases/fractal-design-core-3000-case-review/5/


----------



## newone757

Got some new 140mm that seem to be quiter and move more air than the stock fans. Although they are a lot uglier than I expected. Oh well.


----------



## mshaddix

I have an Antec Kuhler 620. Made by Asetek I believe, same as the H60. You should be able to find it around $75 USD.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Officially can be called a member . Build was a Pittsburgh Penguins theme. Came out pretty good, cant complain.

http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/erbaker67/media/74509745-6f43-4a67-9ec9-91759d97be43.jpg.html


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Got some new 140mm that seem to be quiter and move more air than the stock fans. Although they are a lot uglier than I expected. Oh well.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Redundant pictures!


The gentle typhoons could have been an option as well, but these bitfenix performs extremely well from what I've heard, Noctua could have been better but I despise their color scheme, I wish they could make some black & white, they would sell twice as much I'm sure. You could have went with some Phantecks as well and place one on each side.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> Officially can be called a member . Build was a Pittsburgh Penguins theme. Came out pretty good, cant complain.


Nice build although I really do not get the yellow fans, unless you plan on painting the various trays in yellow as well.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Nice build although I really do not get the yellow fans, unless you plan on painting the various trays in yellow as well.


Pittsburgh penguins' colors are black and yellow. I know, because I'm from there


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> The gentle typhoons could have been an option as well, but these bitfenix performs extremely well from what I've heard, Noctua could have been better but I despise their color scheme, I wish they could make some black & white, they would sell twice as much I'm sure. You could have went with some Phantecks as well and place one on each side.


These are Phanteks PH-140TS and they are great. Got them after reading silent PC's 1st fan roundup that came out last week. They did not disappoint.

Only issue is you cant really fit them in the top of the R4 without removing both of the sound dampeners because of the 120mm mounting on them. I did manage to get one up there but didn't like the sound of it when mounted horizontally (as an intake). The fractal R2's sound bad in that position too, but they are fine as an exhaust horizontally.

I used to have mine in push pull but didn't notice that much difference in temps . Im also not overclocked so CPU temps are never a problem. So I try to focus on general case airflow and providing fresh air to the GPU.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Pittsburgh penguins' colors are black and yellow. I know, because I'm from there


Exactly. Going with the white for now might do yellow in the future but can't complain.


----------



## ZeVo

For anyone that has painted their PCI-E slot covers, how did you do it? Did you sand it a little bit then paint it? And how many coats did you use?

Sorry for all these noob questions. Besides taking out the bottom HDD cage, I have never modded anything else.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> These are Phanteks PH-140TS and they are great. Got them after reading silent PC's 1st fan roundup that came out last week. They did not disappoint.
> 
> Only issue is you cant really fit them in the top of the R4 without removing both of the sound dampeners because of the 120mm mounting on them. I did manage to get one up there but didn't like the sound of it when mounted horizontally (as an intake). The fractal R2's sound bad in that position too, but they are fine as an exhaust horizontally.
> 
> I used to have mine in push pull but didn't notice that much difference in temps . Im also not overclocked so CPU temps are never a problem. So I try to focus on general case airflow and providing fresh air to the GPU.


Ohhh okay, yeah I thought these were the bitfenix, no idea why, the shape is quite similar though, the Phanteks are made as CPU fans though, it's strange seeing these at the bottom and the rear.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Arc Mini R2 has been announced!



Planning on building a 2nd pc in a couple months. I might be going with this case







.

Corsair's 350d and Air 540 cases look sweet too though... da choices...


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> For anyone that has painted their PCI-E slot covers, how did you do it? Did you sand it a little bit then paint it? And how many coats did you use?
> 
> Sorry for all these noob questions. Besides taking out the bottom HDD cage, I have never modded anything else.


Paint sticks to paint, so you can just spray them as is


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> The gentle typhoons could have been an option as well, but these bitfenix performs extremely well from what I've heard, Noctua could have been better but I despise their color scheme, I wish they could make some black & white, they would sell twice as much I'm sure. You could have went with some Phantecks as well and place one on each side.


Bitfenix fans are pretty meh.


----------



## stnz

I heard good comments about them by two of my friends, but the previous fans were extremely bad so I guess anything new would be better


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> I heard good comments about them by two of my friends, but the previous fans were extremely bad so I guess anything new would be better


It's also rifle fans, the Spectre are quite good but Spectre Pros have mediocre results due to their odd blade design.
cf. http://www.hardware.fr/articles/874-9/bitfenix-spectre-spectre-pro-led-test.html

Seriously, look at the Spectre Pro results!


----------



## stnz

Darn, didn't expect it to be that bad :/


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Darn, didn't expect it to be that bad :/


I can report first hand that the 120mm and 140mm flat out suck

The 200mm and 230mm are only good as all 200mm and 230mm fans suck


----------



## stnz

Well I'm glad to know that ! Thanks guys


----------



## TSXmike

Almost forgot about this thread.

Here's my arc mini... nearly complete.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iWorkAtStaples*
> 
> Officially can be called a member . Build was a Pittsburgh Penguins theme. Came out pretty good, cant complain.


I'm liking it, great build!


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Paint sticks to paint, so you can just spray them as is


Alright, thanks! Any particular spray paint I should be using like Rust-Oleum? They have so many different colors of brown it's hard to choose. I'm looking for something to match my Noctua fans. By fans I mean their frame which looks like a sand color, but cannot find any colors that come close to it.


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I'm liking it, great build!


Thank you very much. I appreciate it!


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> Almost forgot about this thread.
> 
> Here's my arc mini... nearly complete.


Looks great. Show the final build!


----------



## Eggy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Arc Mini R2 has been announced!
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on building a 2nd pc in a couple months. I might be going with this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Corsair's 350d and Air 540 cases look sweet too though... da choices...


Link? what has changed from the old Mini to the Mini R2?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Link? what has changed from the old Mini to the Mini R2?


Tweaktown, just this pic for now.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Arc Mini R2 has been announced!
> 
> 
> 
> Planning on building a 2nd pc in a couple months. I might be going with this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Corsair's 350d and Air 540 cases look sweet too though... da choices...
> 
> 
> 
> Link? what has changed from the old Mini to the Mini R2?
Click to expand...

If like the Arc Midi R2, some good changes on the way.


----------



## lurker2501

Check out my super neat cable management. Now with two cards!


----------



## Deornoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Link? what has changed from the old Mini to the Mini R2?


Bit-tech.net has a bit more info:
Quote:


> As for the Fractal Arc Mini 2, this micro-ATX case includes fully removable drive bays - both HDD and optical - allowing for that top mounted radiator and a 2x120mm radiator in the front. The radiator mount is also offset in front of the motherboard to keep the overall case size as compact as possible, with dimensions of 210 x 405 x 484mm. Two SSD mounts are again inlcluded on the back of the motherboard. For accessing the top radiator it's a simple case of siding off the top filter section.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Alright, thanks! Any particular spray paint I should be using like Rust-Oleum? They have so many different colors of brown it's hard to choose. I'm looking for something to match my Noctua fans. By fans I mean their frame which looks like a sand color, but cannot find any colors that come close to it.


I've used cheap spray paint before (like 88 cent Wal-Mart brand cheap) and even that holds up pretty well. All you need to do is paint light coats to avoid dripping and make sure the surface is smooth and clear of any imperfections. I would go with a can of Rustoleum or Krylon if you can find the right shade of tan to match your Noctua fans. If you are having trouble finding the right color and need more shades I'd look into buying some Montana or Ironlak spray paint. I really like the idea of painting the white pci covers beige/tan to match with the Noctuas, seems like a subtle mod that would look great. Be sure to post up pics in this thread if you get the chance, I'd love to see it being a Noctua fanboy myself


----------



## Vash101

Cant wait for more info on the Arc XL

http://www.tweaktown.com/news/30736/fractal-design-shows-off-arc-xl-pc-chassis-at-computex/index.html


----------



## MiwaPi

Here's a video preview of the arc mini r2
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=xrMrJa8UurE&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DxrMrJa8UurE

Looks pretty good!


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> I've used cheap spray paint before (like 88 cent Wal-Mart brand cheap) and even that holds up pretty well. All you need to do is paint light coats to avoid dripping and make sure the surface is smooth and clear of any imperfections. I would go with a can of Rustoleum or Krylon if you can find the right shade of tan to match your Noctua fans. If you are having trouble finding the right color and need more shades I'd look into buying some Montana or Ironlak spray paint. I really like the idea of painting the white pci covers beige/tan to match with the Noctuas, seems like a subtle mod that would look great. Be sure to post up pics in this thread if you get the chance, I'd love to see it being a Noctua fanboy myself


Thanks for the reply. And of course, I'll definitely post some pics. I might as well Rust-Oleum and use it for other stuff around the house.

Now my idea at first was the paint the slots to match the frame of Noc fans - kind of a sandish color, but now I think I should do one slot sand, and one brown, like the blades themselves.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Magnum26

I use the Noctua 140mm FLX fans, they pump a hell of a lot air through my current case, but they don't half look fugly, if only they were black.


----------



## Hawxie

I would like to join, the specs of the machine are in my Sig







.

The case is a Define R4.


----------



## Epiales74

Does anybody know/tested if you can use plastic 3.5 inch rails from different cases in any of the Fractal cases available instead of using the white metal rails included?


----------



## Epiales74

Would a better option be just to paint the white rails black because the white does not match my color scheme any help would be much appreciated


----------



## The Lurking Ninja

Hello,

Can anyone tell me or show me a picture of a H80 or H80i being installed in the front of the Fractal Design R4? Does the tubing comfortably fit around the Ram?

thanks,

Ninja


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Lurking Ninja*
> 
> Hello,
> Can anyone tell me or show me a picture of a H80 or H80i being installed in the front of the Fractal Design R4? Does the tubing comfortably fit around the Ram?
> thanks,
> 
> Ninja


Yes it does, just like a H100i.
A H80i would work better in the back as Intake though


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Epiales74*
> 
> Would a better option be just to paint the white rails black because the white does not match my color scheme any help would be much appreciated


That would be a better option, you can find plenty of example of this being done here in this thread.


----------



## The Lurking Ninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Yes it does, just like a H100i.
> A H80i would work better in the back as Intake though


why in the back as intake?


----------



## Eggy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiwaPi*
> 
> Here's a video preview of the arc mini r2
> http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=xrMrJa8UurE&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DxrMrJa8UurE
> 
> Looks pretty good!


It looks freaking epic, only downside is the August launch, i'm planning a build now within a few weeks.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Lurking Ninja*
> 
> why in the back as intake?


Simply because the h80i is designed to work best as intake, instead of taking the warm air out it'll take the fresh air from outside and push it on your CPU, see what I mean ? Also ! Important ! If you do purchase the h80i make sure to align the screw extremely well and to not overtight them, don't change your fan position more than 2 to 3 times in a row unless you can position your screw well, the metal used for the screw threads is extremely soft and you could not be able to screw back, it happened to me yesterday while helping a friend on his build, we fixed if with tie wraps while he purchase a new one then get this one refunded, it's a known issue, but the product in itself except that little mishap is very good.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Lurking Ninja*
> 
> why in the back as intake?


Because if the H80i is an intake, its going to bring all the hot air into the case, however if its in the back, you're only bringing in semi warm air into the radiator, and blowing the rest of the hot air out of the case.


----------



## kim jong so ill

some info on the new Arc XL and Arc Mini R2






key differences are easily removable 5.25" bays and improved ssd mounting on the back side (finally lol)


----------



## adi518

Hehe Josh is an awesome guy.


----------



## stnz

I might get the new mini, it'll feat well near my define r4


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> some info on the new Arc XL and Arc Mini R2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> key differences are easily removable 5.25" bays and improved ssd mounting on the back side (finally lol)


I see the Node 605 right next to the Arc Mini, I wonder if that has gotten any updates.


----------



## TSXmike

finished product









http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/44100#post_20127018


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> finished product
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/44100#post_20127018


You took that with your iphone ?
Nice build btw


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> You took that with your iphone ?
> Nice build btw


S3... same difference.

ill break out the dslr later in the week.


----------



## housefly88

Here is mine, an XL v1 Titianum Grey, it still a work in progress, I'll post the build log when I get caught up with a few other projects.

Just a few teasers










Stock










Can you spot the difference?


----------



## dioxholster

got a design R4 whenever I get the fan controller to max volts it shuts down thr fan instead.


----------



## housefly88

Are you referring to the single PCI slot controller, that comes with the Case?


----------



## Anoxy

Ok I'm torn between the Define R4 and the Arc Midi R2

Somebody just choose for me!

edit: nevermind, I ordered the Arc Midi


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *housefly88*
> 
> Are you referring to the single PCI slot controller, that comes with the Case?


are you refering to me? if yes, then no, the case comes with a fan controller at the front that is connected to PSU and fans.

edit: actually im not sure what you mean by pci. anyway i figured it out, it simply was loosly plugged into PSU cable, i didnt check before because i assumed if that were the case it wouldnt work at all.


----------



## seaseec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to join, the specs of the machine are in my Sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The case is a Define R4.


What did you use to light up your case like that?


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TSXmike*
> 
> S3... same difference.
> 
> ill break out the dslr later in the week.


Pleaaaase ?


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaseec*
> 
> What did you use to light up your case like that?


Probably a led strip from Bitfenix ?


----------



## Anoxy

Or perhaps some cheap cold cathode lights from Logisys?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Probably a led strip from Bitfenix ?


The NZXT LED cables are cheaper and more flexible they come in 1 and 2 meter cables

When i say flexible i dont mean it as in its eaiser to bend i mean you can turn the lights on the NZXT cables off on low light med light or max light making them very flexible


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Or perhaps some cheap cold cathode lights from Logisys?


Meh, I would rather take LED strip, plus it's much better for the environment (no toxic mercury and lesser power consumption) plus the lighting is more balanced with LEDs imo.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Meh, I would rather take LED strip, plus it's much better for the environment (no toxic mercury and lesser power consumption) plus the lighting is more balanced with LEDs imo.


Oh I agree, I was just taking a guess.

I bought those cold cathodes for my case and they ended up in the trash two days later....uneven lighting and just...ugly


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seaseec*
> 
> What did you use to light up your case like that?


Akasa AK-188 White cold cathodes, one ghetto mounted in the top, another one in the front







.

But they are a PITA to mount, I used more double sided tape and some clips to get the top one fitted, the one in the front mounted just fine.


----------



## stnz

I heard the Bitfenix lasted longer than the NZXT ones and that they were brighter and that's why they're in my cart right now but I'll look into it deeper ! What about the nzxt led controller ? Is it any good ?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> I heard the Bitfenix lasted longer than the NZXT ones and that they were brighter and that's why they're in my cart right now but I'll look into it deeper ! What about the nzxt led controller ? Is it any good ?


You mean that controller where you can turn the light up and down?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I have 2 of the Bitfenix LED strip plugged into the fan controller of the Arc Midi R2. All is working fine for the last month. 12v is max 7v/5v is too dim too see it, its when I set it for when I sleep.
The NZXT Hue had issues and LED died out and the controller failed to correctly set the proper colors.
The LED strip from NZXT I used had issues of led not lighting or not showing the correct color.


----------



## TSXmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You mean that controller where you can turn the light up and down?


did that on mine. even have a wireless remote to control the lights.


----------



## Lutfij

Thanks for that news feed - I think I'll ask one of my clients to build on a fractal arc mini R2 with all that liquid cooling support







Good going Fractal!


----------



## DrizNasty

Just wanted to say hi everybody, after weeks of looking through this thread, I ordered my midi r2 today, will have some noob pics up in a couple weeks


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You mean that controller where you can turn the light up and down?


Yep and set their colors etc, its around 30$ I think, what speed junkie is saying basically


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizNasty*
> 
> Just wanted to say hi everybody, after weeks of looking through this thread, I ordered my midi r2 today, will have some noob pics up in a couple weeks


A couple weeks ? Whaaaaat !


----------



## tomato16

Finally settled down on an R4, fits everything and is by far the quietest case I have used.

No problem fitting an EATX board and a pair of triple slot cards.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizNasty*
> 
> Just wanted to say hi everybody, after weeks of looking through this thread, I ordered my midi r2 today, will have some noob pics up in a couple weeks


Cheers, my friend







. My midi r2 is being delivered tomorrow, along with all my other parts








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> A couple weeks ? Whaaaaat !


Haha right? Mine comes Friday and you bet your arse I'll be taking completed photos by the end of the night.


----------



## stnz

Nice ! Finally someone reasonable


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomato16*
> 
> Finally settled down on an R4, fits everything and is by far the quietest case I have used.
> 
> No problem fitting an EATX board and a pair of triple slot cards.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow.. those cards and cooler are _huuuuuuuggggeee._

But nice cable management! What temps are you hitting on the cards?


----------



## DrizNasty

haha, well im a slow builder, this is going to be my first custom loop build, and still trying to decide if i want to block this 680 classy, or go after something better...


----------



## Anoxy

Ah, you're doing a custom loop. That makes sense then. Mine isn't going to be quite that badass


----------



## tingc222

Hi everyone, long time lurker, and now I made an account









So I'm wondering. With an Asrock extreme4 z77 board and the Fractal Define R4, what maximum thickness of 240mm rad can I fit on top without compromising the RAM clips?

I searched all over but can't find one. So far all that people have posted/youtubed about are rads up to 30mm.

Does anyone have this setup?

Thanks


----------



## stnz

I would say around 30mm but I can't be entirely sure as I do not have that exact system at home, since the Extreme4 has a height of 8.6", you might be able to use a 40mm but once again you would have to check the exact placement of the card within the case.

By the way, shilka, etc, would you go for *1M* or *2M* ? As a reminder, I have a Define R4.


----------



## afallickwang

Just ordered my Fractal Design Define R4 in white on sale at Newegg today. Tomorrow is the last day of sale for that model.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomato16*
> 
> Finally settled down on an R4, fits everything and is by far the quietest case I have used.
> No problem fitting an EATX board and a pair of triple slot cards.


YAY! a friend! Lol....<3 triple-slot cards


----------



## tomato16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Wow.. those cards and cooler are _huuuuuuuggggeee._
> 
> But nice cable management! What temps are you hitting on the cards?


Thanks! I actually had AIO water coolers zip tied to the both of them but recently switched back to using the original coolers.

In a HafX, the cards would run up to 85 degrees and above during Furmark. During Heaven, I believe it used to be around 80 or so. Temps will probably higher now that they're in the R4.

Looks like I have some testing to do.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomato16*
> 
> Thanks! I actually had AIO water coolers zip tied to the both of them but recently switched back to using the original coolers.
> 
> In a HafX, the cards would run up to 85 degrees and above during Furmark. During Heaven, I believe it used to be around 80 or so. Temps will probably higher now that they're in the R4.
> 
> Looks like I have some testing to do.


If you're unsatisfied with your temperatures, I highly recommend the Gigabyte Z77 G1 Sniper 3 E-ATX board.

I have GTX 680 DCII's, and the spacing on the Sniper 3 is perfect for triple-slot cards. My temps on my top card dropped 15C+


----------



## birthdaymonkey

Just upgraded from a Define R3 to an XL R2. I am very pleased with the larger case. Cable management is so much easier, and my GPU now runs at the same temp it used to get at 48% fan speed--but now it's at 40% fan speed!

I have had some trouble getting the GPU to seat properly, but I e-mailed Fractal and they got back to be right away offering to send longer standoffs.

Now my only problem is that my hardware seems so small inside this giant. I guess I'll need to get some more.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *birthdaymonkey*
> 
> Now my only problem is that my hardware seems so small inside this giant. I guess I'll need to get some more.


Radiators would fill the void.


----------



## dezmick

Here is some photos of my Arc Midi 2.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Here is some photos of my Arc Midi 2.


The black and red looks great. I like the components too, nice rig.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Here is some photos of my Arc Midi 2.


I dig the red pci slot covers and drive sleds. nice build


----------



## housefly88

Very nice color on the sleds and pci


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> Here is some photos of my Arc Midi 2.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


Did you sleeve the cables yourself ? Nice work on the scheme ! Good parts too


----------



## dezmick

Quote:


> Did you sleeve the cables yourself ? Nice work on the scheme ! Good parts too


Thanks: I used NZXT extentions and just some regular red spray paint for the pci and drive bays. I think it came out pretty good.


----------



## stnz

Where did you buy the NZXT extensions ? On NZXT's website or via NCIX or another website ? What are the one to buy ? Could you give me the complete list (I'm searching for the white ones for my upcoming Hale90 v2)


----------



## dezmick

Quote:


> Where did you buy the NZXT extensions


I got them from Amazon. Here is a link to some white 6 pin pci cables, you can find the other cables you will need from there.

http://www.amazon.com/6-Pin-Premium-Extension-Cable-White/dp/B003TSCZS0/ref=pd_sim_e_40


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> I got them from Amazon. Here is a link to some white 6 pin pci cables, you can find the other cables you will need from there.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/6-Pin-Premium-Extension-Cable-White/dp/B003TSCZS0/ref=pd_sim_e_40


Yeah, these are the one I was talking about, thanks !


----------



## afallickwang

Just received my white Define R4 this morning. can't wait to figure what to stick in it soon.


----------



## Zboy

thinking about putting together a small and silent build with a modestly oc'd 3770k. would the define mini fit that build? does anyone have experience with quiet/silent coolers in this case?


----------



## AsTuRkInG

This is the progress of my R4



and contiuing with the style of this topic http://www.overclock.net/t/1391525/budget-overclocked-3570k-7870xt-water-cooled-rig-build-under-1400-fractal-design-r4/0_30


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> This is the progress of my R4
> 
> 
> 
> and contiuing with the style of this topic http://www.overclock.net/t/1391525/budget-overclocked-3570k-7870xt-water-cooled-rig-build-under-1400-fractal-design-r4/0_30


You should buy some green tape, cut it so it replaces the red AX on the PSU, or simply paint it, just saying


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> This is the progress of my R4


Dang, this is very similar to what I've been planning to build in a couple months







. Except I will be going with the G1 Sniper M5 and Arc Mini R2.

Was also gonna paint those corsair fan rings to match. What color did you use? Seems to match perfectly.

Hate to bite some of [email protected]'s style, but the G1 Sniper boards are so sleek


----------



## Anoxy

Man, I am extremely pleased with the Arc Midi R2. The build quality is just phenomenal.

Especially, the window...pleasantly surprised by the tint of the glass. It takes the edge off of any LEDs inside my case and makes them look so much more refined. I'm in love


----------



## Gabrielzm

Hi Guys

just got the define xl r2 case down here in Brazil (from Frozencpu) and the standoff are (guess what







): 6 mm. That means pci cards will not align properly with the case since the MB is lower that it should be. Apparently some cases are being shipped with 6mm standoffs while others are with the correct size 8.5 mm. So right now I have a useless case and I can´t manage to find the correct size standoffs here in Brazil. Fractal was unresponsive so far (24 h). Any ideas or suggestions of how to speed up their support?

Best wishes

Gabriel

PS- the problem is described here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1345154/fractal-design-introducing-define-xl-r2/110


----------



## MPX309




----------



## andyv

I have two FD cases. I just thought I would share some good experiences I have had (for anyone considering the cases)

I have the R4 in which the fan controller (one cable) stopped working. I emailed them the issue and they had a new controller sent to me within a week (This was from Europe to Australia) and I also contacted them about the Node 605 (the glue came off the magnet) and they got back to me straight away with recommendations (just wanted to make sure it wouldn't void warranty mainly).

I guess its bad that I have had two issues with my cases (albeit small ones, was going to ignore the fan controller if they wouldn't do anything) but I have nothing but positive things to say - so much so I am considering another one of their cases for my server.


----------



## -RYknow

I'll play along. I don't have the greatest pics, but they will give you guys the idea.




Pretty sure the specs are in my sig. If not here is a quick rundown.

CPU: AMD FX6300
RAM: 32GB G.Skill Rip Jaws
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5
GPU: Radeon something...It's a server. It's small, no power adapter, and black PCB. Perfect for this build
SSD: Samsung 840pro 128GB
HD; 6x Seagate 3TB

Noctua fans throughout. Corsair H60 with push/pull setup. It's running Xubuntu and the 6 seagate drives are raided with ZFS. Running Raidz2 which is basically raid 6.

When I get a chance, I recently built HTPC's with the Fractal Design Node 304, and 605. I'll try to get some pics of those as well!

-RYknow


----------



## .theMetal

7 hours from now the node will be on newegg's shell shocker deal, so if anyone is interested might be able to get a decent price.


----------



## -RYknow

Ok, so I did just find a few pics of each of my HTPC's that I already had. Again...these pics aren't very good. I just recently got a DSLR, so new pics will be taken in the future. But for now, cell phone pics will have to do.

Here are a couple pics of my Node 605 I built. This is the HTPC for the living room. It's going to double as a lightweight gaming rig.




CPU: Phenom II X4 960T
RAM: 16GB G.Skill RipJaws
Mobo: Gigabyte GA970A-ud3
GPU: Gigabyte GTX660
PSU: Corsair HX750
HD: Western Digital 2TB Black edition

Air cooled with a noctua fan. Had a Fatal1ty Sound Card I through in too.

And here is a couple of the Node 304. I built this HTPC for our bedroom.





CPU: i3 2100
RAM: 8GB G.Skill RipJaws
Mobo: Asrock B75m-itx
GPU: Gigabyte Radeon 6670
PSU: Corsair HX 650
SSD: Corsair 120gb
HD: Western Digital 2TB Black Edition

Water cooled with a Corsair H60, push/pull with Corsair SP120's. This is a great little case. I really love it. Using the built in fan controller allows the case to run silently. If I run the fans at full speed, they are loud, but toned down, things are damn quiet!!

-RYknow


----------



## jcm27

Looking forward tothe Arc XL's windowed side panel which is compatible for my Define XL R2


----------



## Dmavs41

Anyone here have an issue with their power button not working on Fractal case? I have an Arc Midi R2 case, and after the pc has been of for a long period of time, for example 8 hours, the pc will not turn on. The fans begin to spin but then stop and nothing happens. The only way to fix this is to cut the power to the PSU, wait 20 secs, then flick the power switch of the PSU back on, followed by pressing the power button on the case. I think the power cable or the power button on the case is defective because i didn't have this problem last week when i had everything working with my Corsair 800D case.


----------



## TIEAdvanced

Anyone know when the arc mini r2 will be out?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


----------



## DamyLv

I am waiting for a possible Define mini R2

Now there are more cases on the market with similar dimensions and features. I think an update should be good


----------



## Vash101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TIEAdvanced*
> 
> Anyone know when the arc mini r2 will be out?
> 
> Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2


I think in the videos i watched they said the end of the month first part of next month.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dmavs41*
> 
> Anyone here have an issue with their power button not working on Fractal case? I have an Arc Midi R2 case, and after the pc has been of for a long period of time, for example 8 hours, the pc will not turn on. The fans begin to spin but then stop and nothing happens. The only way to fix this is to cut the power to the PSU, wait 20 secs, then flick the power switch of the PSU back on, followed by pressing the power button on the case. I think the power cable or the power button on the case is defective because i didn't have this problem last week when i had everything working with my Corsair 800D case.


hmmm what kind of power supply is it?

its strange, my wifes computer did something similar in a super cheap rosewill case. then we moved it to a different case and it hasn't done it since. all the fans would turn on for about a second then turn off for a second, then on. and it would cycle on and off until you forced it to stop.

do you have a ton of led fans? I think that might have been my problem. maybe the initial draw of all the fans at once would cause the power supply to freak for a second.


----------



## Gabrielzm

Ok, update on the dfine xl r2. Fractal US was great and sent me the correct size standoffs. They are on the way down here now.

I will post pictures when the system is finally assemble.

Cheers


----------



## DrizNasty

Looks like tomorrow is the day, I've had the case sitting around for a week now, already love it!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Dang, this is very similar to what I've been planning to build in a couple months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Except I will be going with the G1 Sniper M5 and Arc Mini R2.
> 
> Was also gonna paint those corsair fan rings to match. What color did you use? Seems to match perfectly.
> 
> Hate to bite some of [email protected]'s style, but the G1 Sniper boards are so sleek


/brofist


----------



## Jason7890

Wish the white Node 304 would release already.How well does it fit a NZXT Kraken X40?


----------



## Dmavs41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> hmmm what kind of power supply is it?
> 
> its strange, my wifes computer did something similar in a super cheap rosewill case. then we moved it to a different case and it hasn't done it since. all the fans would turn on for about a second then turn off for a second, then on. and it would cycle on and off until you forced it to stop.
> 
> do you have a ton of led fans? I think that might have been my problem. maybe the initial draw of all the fans at once would cause the power supply to freak for a second.


Thanks for the suggestion, and the problem was a fan splitter i was using to add an extra fan to the fan controller. I guess the extra fan was too much for the controller to handle. Since I have taken off the splitter, the case has powered up immediately every time i press the power button.


----------



## jcamp6336

Is the Arc Mini R2 out yet? If not when will it be released?


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Is the Arc Mini R2 out yet? If not when will it be released?


It should be released end of june or beginning of July


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> It should be released end of june or beginning of July


Hoping youre right. I read somewhere that it was estimated for late August or early September. And the XL would be late July or early August. I dont wanna wait that long lol


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason7890*
> 
> Wish the white Node 304 would release already.How well does it fit a NZXT Kraken X40?


Same here. Really liking that case.


----------



## KevGann

Anyone thinking about using the new Haswell series processors for their future builds? I'm not quite sure if should get the z87 Asus Gryphon motherboard and the arc mini r2.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> Anyone thinking about using the new Haswell series processors for their future builds? I'm not quite sure if should get the z87 Asus Gryphon motherboard and the arc mini r2.


honestly, unless you are getting beaten up on SB/IB platform, i don't see the cost
advantage to moving to Haswell platform. so far the overclockers are not really
happy, especially that 70% of the new Haswell owners fall into the medium
category of overclock (4.4/4.5GHz). if you are on 775/1366/1156 platform or
AMD change-over the Haswell platform is a great improvement. i plan to stay
on SB/IB for now.
the new schemes of the Z87 boards are a lot better, but dropping $600 for just
appearance is steep for me (owns 32GB corsair platinum). just my opinion.

airdeano


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> honestly, unless you are getting beaten up on SB/IB platform, i don't see the cost
> advantage to moving to Haswell platform. so far the overclockers are not really
> happy, especially that 70% of the new Haswell owners fall into the medium
> category of overclock (4.4/4.5GHz). if you are on 775/1366/1156 platform or
> AMD change-over the Haswell platform is a great improvement. i plan to stay
> on SB/IB for now.
> the new schemes of the Z87 boards are a lot better, but dropping $600 for just
> appearance is steep for me (owns 32GB corsair platinum). just my opinion.
> 
> airdeano


+1


----------



## duhanus

Will the kraken x60(push and pull) with 4 noctua fans fit in a FRACTAL DESIGN XL R2? (asus sabertooth 3gen amd)


----------



## Blitos

Does anyone know if Fractal has a Define Mini update coming?


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitos*
> 
> Does anyone know if Fractal has a Define Mini update coming?


Define Mini R2 coming soon normally


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duhanus*
> 
> Will the kraken x60(push and pull) with 4 noctua fans fit in a FRACTAL DESIGN XL R2? (asus sabertooth 3gen amd)


push/pull, prolly not, mainly a single fan set more than dual. there just isn't
that much room between the roof and mobo with 'sinks (MOS/RAM) and not
being off-set mounted is a big negative. the 280 is harder to compensate
because of the width. prolly thickest rad is the XT45 280 by Alphacool and
a fan set. since the X60 is 27mm thick with a high fpi to get optimal cooling
performance you'll need some high static or high rpm fans.
the OE fans are rated 2900rpm(??) with 2.2mm/h2o.

airdeano


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blitos*
> 
> Does anyone know if Fractal has a Define Mini update coming?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Define Mini R2 coming soon normally


Define.. not yet..
the Arc Mini, yes. website just posted Arc Mini R2 so till this is launched
then prolly the define mini.

airdeano


----------



## bobwas4

hello everyone,

random question and completely changing the subject but i have a fractal design define r3 and i was wondering if the r4 windowed side panel will fit it. as i cant find anywhere that sells (if they did sell) the r3 window panel?


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobwas4*
> 
> hello everyone,
> 
> random question and completely changing the subject but i have a fractal design define r3 and i was wondering if the r4 windowed side panel will fit it. as i cant find anywhere that sells (if they did sell) the r3 window panel?


Nope, it won't fit. Posted this comparison a while back when I still had my R3...


----------



## bobwas4

well thats just meh :\.

thanks for your help anyways.


----------



## duhanus

If im getting the xl r2, phanteks14pe(with 2 NOCTUA A15 fans and 1 more in the future) will it fit? will it block the way of the ram(g skill ares) or gpx card(EVGA superclocked 780) ?


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> Define.. not yet..
> the Arc Mini, yes. website just posted Arc Mini R2 so till this is launched
> then prolly the define mini.
> 
> airdeano


My bad, I read Arc Mini, didn't realize it was about the Define


----------



## DrizNasty

Alright we are done


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizNasty*
> 
> Alright we are done
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Clean looking build. Well done.


----------



## Cha1ky

My R4. Pretty keen to get a new Arc mini R2 case, does anyone know if you can remove the lower HD case??


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cha1ky*
> 
> My R4. Pretty keen to get a new Arc mini R2 case, does anyone know if you can remove the lower HD case??]


That you can. You can remove the 5.25" bays as well.


----------



## DrizNasty

Alright, my buddy who basically did everything in the setup took this pic of the build, I guess he felt my pics didn't give his work justice lol...

http://s538.photobucket.com/user/mavdrdru/media/IMAG0019_zpsb573c8f7.jpg.html

Oh and forgot to mention it's OC'd to 4.7, at 1.28v! temps are amazing


----------



## Lutfij

What monitor arm is that?







Nice looking rig you got there


----------



## PCBuilder94

When does the Arc Mini R2 come out?


----------



## DrizNasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> What monitor arm is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice looking rig you got there


Here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S750LA/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> When does the Arc Mini R2 come out?


I've been hearing that maybe sometime in July and possibly even later.


----------



## Lutfij

Thanks for the link driz mate!


----------



## stnz

Nice build driz








Congrats to your buddy


----------



## AMDPhenomX4

I fixed the one issue I had with the Define R4.

I'd say it looks a lot better in white. It took 20 minutes and $5.


----------



## xquisit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDPhenomX4*
> 
> I fixed the one issue I had with the Define R4.
> 
> I'd say it looks a lot better in white. It took 20 minutes and $5.


Nice!


----------



## ZeVo

To anyone who has painted their PCI-E slots/other parts of their computer, what brand spray paint did you go with? There are so many colors of brown it'll be hard to chose which one will go with my Noc fans.


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDPhenomX4*
> 
> I fixed the one issue I had with the Define R4.
> 
> I'd say it looks a lot better in white. It took 20 minutes and $5.


How'd you pull this off? Just make a new cable and stuck a white LED on the end?


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMDPhenomX4*
> 
> I fixed the one issue I had with the Define R4.
> 
> I'd say it looks a lot better in white. It took 20 minutes and $5.


HOW DID YOU DO IT ?
I'm going for a black & white scheme, it is imperative I do this.


----------



## gdubc

Frozencpu sells leds. 3mm is what u want. Like *these*


----------



## AMDPhenomX4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Frozencpu sells leds. 3mm is what u want. Like *these*


Yup, a 3mm LED is the right size. I used a 45 degree one from Digikey. It's just a bit of gentle pulling to get it out. Only the LED comes out, not the whole button and you can use pliers or tweezers to help get it out. It is a tight friction fit.

Though not imperative, it's not hard to keep the polarity correct. Under the sleeving is another layer of sleeving that covers the LED leg and red/black wire connection.


----------



## dvalle22

So I swapped my new computer from my 650d and put it in my Arc Midi because I planned (or are still planning) to do some mods to the 650d.. in the process I kinda decided that I like the Arc Midi more so I'm thinking I might buy an R2.

Other being able to remove both HDD cages, the new front mesh/filter design, front I/O changes, and window option, are there any other changes from the original to the R2?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> To anyone who has painted their PCI-E slots/other parts of their computer, what brand spray paint did you go with? There are so many colors of brown it'll be hard to chose which one will go with my Noc fans.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/1070#post_19360233

My post on the Sniper 3 board.....painted my pci covers, HDD trays and Corsair fan rings......works great!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/1070#post_19360233
> 
> My post on the Sniper 3 board.....painted my pci covers, HDD trays and Corsair fan rings......works great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that is stunning. nice work.


----------



## newone757

Such a cohesive build. Nice work


----------



## dvalle22

What kind of temps do you get with that setup? Looks amazing

I was thinking of doing a very similar scheme in a Arc Midi R2. I want to paint all the accents yellow though to match my 680 Lightning and MPower mobo.

edit: which fans are you using in the front?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *newone757*
> 
> Such a cohesive build. Nice work
> 
> 
> 
> that is stunning. nice work.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I posted this rig a while back, glad to know people still like it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dvalle22*
> 
> What kind of temps do you get with that setup? Looks amazing
> 
> I was thinking of doing a very similar scheme in a Arc Midi R2. I want to paint all the accents yellow though to match my 680 Lightning and MPower mobo.
> 
> edit: which fans are you using in the front?


Current load temps: (CPU ~56C / GPUs Top ~53C, Botton ~44C)

All case and heatsink fans are Corsair AF120's and AF140's (Front fans are (2x) AF140's)

(This picture is a few months old, and I have since swapped out the Megahalems for a Noctua D14)


----------



## [email protected]

More pictures ~


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/1070#post_19360233
> 
> My post on the Sniper 3 board.....painted my pci covers, HDD trays and Corsair fan rings......works great!


I can't say it enough, you're builds are honestly one of my favorites. Everything looks so neat.

And +rep for the help on what paint to use. I honestly had no idea!


----------



## dvalle22

I want to trade out my cooler for a D14 as well, but I think I have to get to ram for that as well for compatibility reasons.

Also, on the Midi R2, did they change the filter style or are they still using that really dense foam on the top and front?


----------



## SclerosiS

I want to ask, to drill the 4 rivets of the bottom cage of core 3000 was needed a 4mm drillbit ,right?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I can't say it enough, you're builds are honestly one of my favorites. Everything looks so neat.
> 
> And +rep for the help on what paint to use. I honestly had no idea!


Thank you so very much!


----------



## Moolers

Quick one.....

Can you connect 4 pin fans to the built in fan controller on the R4?


----------



## KevGann

Did you add carbon fiber vinyl wrap to your 680's?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> Did you add carbon fiber vinyl wrap to your 680's?


Yes. 3M Carbon Fiber Di-Noc.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moolers*
> 
> Quick one.....
> 
> Can you connect 4 pin fans to the built in fan controller on the R4?


Not unless you modded the connectors (they are standard 3-pin closed headers)


----------



## black9white

hello!
idk if this is the right topic to ask this :/, but ill be going for a fractal arc xl, when its release, i would want to know if the upper hdd bays can be remove?

see pic


----------



## HPE1000

I have a node 304 that should show up today so I guess I will post pictures here when I migrate my rig into it.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *black9white*
> 
> hello!
> idk if this is the right topic to ask this :/, but ill be going for a fractal arc xl, when its release, i would want to know if the upper hdd bays can be remove?
> 
> see pic


Not unless you mod the case (drill out the rivets that attach the bay)


----------



## black9white

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Not unless you mod the case (drill out the rivets that attach the bay)


oh i see, got some ideas now. Thanks i might do what you said when i get it


----------



## Kokumotsu

i just got the Define R4, i do not have sleeved cables but what would be the best way cable management for this case.
im having neck issues so i kind of cant just sit and fool with it for hours.


----------



## SclerosiS

Got my Core 3000 Usb 3.0 and put everything in.Moving from a CM Elite 371, which was awful.This thing is great.I filled the rig builder put even two photos but i cant get them. What should i do? The only thing the makes me mad is the 8pin for the CPU. Needed 5cm more and would be everything great, but yeah, will be getting an extension because it stays very ugly like this,


----------



## AsTuRkInG

I dont understand.

I have just buy a radiator (Koolance 2x140) with the idea to put it at top but ... it doesnt fit!! I have a fractal R4 and the fans fit perfectly but ... with the motherboard is imposible. Im very frustated









Supposedly in this case fit perfectly but ... no.


----------



## Anoxy

Will a Corsair H110 fit in the top of the Arc Midi R2?


----------



## HPE1000




----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Will a Corsair H110 fit in the top of the Arc Midi R2?


Yes but only in PUSH not Push/Pull


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*


I give you recognition, because i know how it feels being ignored on OCN


----------



## Deep1923

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> More pictures ~












you absolutely need a ASRock Z87 OC Formula it would fit so nice in your system
















and two MSI Lightnings which are with yellow colors


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deep1923*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you absolutely need a ASRock Z87 OC Formula it would fit so nice in your system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and two MSI Lightnings which are with yellow colors


I have a Gigabyte Sniper 3 motherboard, it's florescent-green in color









The motherboard completely dictated my color choice.


----------



## Deep1923

sry it looks yellow on my screen ..the gigabytes green color is a bit darker









who cares?it looks awesome great job!


----------



## HPE1000

If only I could get the FD text to look sharper, its not turning out amazing, it could be a nice wallpaper..


----------



## Pebruska

Photoshop is your friend, my friend.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deep1923*
> 
> sry it looks yellow on my screen ..the gigabytes green color is a bit darker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> who cares?it looks awesome great job!


Thank you









Yeah, the green is a bit darker on the board....that was as close as I could get with spray paint.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Has anyone put a side window on there arc mini? I need to know the best way to go about it.


----------



## gdubc

The node is on sale at newegg today for 59.99 after rebate for anyone interested.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> If only I could get the FD text to look sharper, its not turning out amazing, it could be a nice wallpaper..


Would you be kind enough to give the original link, I'll do that for you


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Would you be kind enough to give the original link, I'll do that for you


What do you mean original link? It was my picture I took.

Also, I don't think I would use it because I run at 5760x1080 so unless you wanted to edit it and use it for yourself there is no reason


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Yes but only in PUSH not Push/Pull


Damn you. H110 definitely does not fit in the top of my Arc Midi R2. It might fit in the front but I would have to move the HDD cage over and I'd rather not. What a waste.

Back to the H100i


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Damn you. H110 definitely does not fit in the top of my Arc Midi R2. It might fit in the front but I would have to move the HDD cage over and I'd rather not. What a waste.
> 
> Back to the H100i


You have to squeeze it between the top and the HDD drive cage...I know cuz I Installed a Kraken on my Arc Midi




As far as I know, The Kraken X60 and the H110 are the same dimensions....It's a tight squeeze but it should fit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

H110 is 20mm spacing and X60 is 15mm spacing.
Arc Midi uses standard 15mm spacing, as the H110 is made for Corsair case.

Even in the front, the mounting holes do not line up correctly for the H110.
The front would be fine to go with.


----------



## Anoxy

The holes looked like they lined up, but I couldn't even get it in there because my motherboard wouldn't allow it. Perhaps if I had a different mobo, idk.

But whatever, I liked the H100i anyway so I just ordered a replacement from Amazon.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> What do you mean original link? It was my picture I took.
> 
> Also, I don't think I would use it because I run at 5760x1080 so unless you wanted to edit it and use it for yourself there is no reason


I meant the picture in its full resolution and not this limited one


----------



## AsTuRkInG

I have a little problems fitting my new 2x140 radiator but i think that i have find the solution

i need cut the part of the case, somebody have do it before? and later i need to make a pair of holes to hold perfectly the radiator


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> I have a little problems fitting my new 2x140 radiator but i think that i have find the solution
> 
> i need cut the part of the case, somebody have do it before? and later i need to make a pair of holes to hold perfectly the radiator


Try front mounting it, unless you need all the HDD space.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Try front mounting it, unless you need all the HDD space.


yes, i need it.

and ... later i will mount other radiator in the front to watercool the gpu too


----------



## TapTapTempo

Anyone use the Node 304 mini itx case? I've been thinking about doing a gaming setup with one. I'd like to throw in a 780 and Corsair A70, but not sure they'll fit. Anyone have experience with one?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Got my Core 3000 Usb 3.0 and put everything in.Moving from a CM Elite 371, which was awful.This thing is great.I filled the rig builder put even two photos but i cant get them. What should i do? The only thing the makes me mad is the 8pin for the CPU. Needed 5cm more and would be everything great, but yeah, will be getting an extension because it stays very ugly like this,


I routed my 8pin cable across the motherboard, under the GPU.

Also:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig/0_20
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deep1923*
> 
> sry it looks yellow on my screen ..the gigabytes green color is a bit darker


Then your screen does not produce accurate colors. If it's of good quality you need to calibrate to have a good IQ.


----------



## SclerosiS

Adridu,

Yeah. The next day i routed it up along the back side of the mb and through a little hole between the gpu and the mb. How you find the fan controller? Have you put it in, or you have connected your fans to the mb fan headers? Mine are to the mb, but im still wondering, which is better.


----------



## adridu59

I don't use the fan controller personally because I don't want to have additional cables in my case. Besides it's only useful if you're not satisfied with how your motherboard handles the fans.

So it's up to you I'd say.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*


Looking good!


----------



## Anoxy

Not to be a dick, but you could always look at the specs of your GPU and the Node and see if it will fit..


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TapTapTempo*
> 
> Anyone use the Node 304 mini itx case? I've been thinking about doing a gaming setup with one. I'd like to throw in a 780 and Corsair A70, but not sure they'll fit. Anyone have experience with one?


780 will fit without a doubt, but the a70, you will need either a z77 p8z77i deluxe if you are on z77, or many of the new z87 itx boards because the cpu socket is further from the pcie slot.


----------



## Anoxy

If you want a barely used P8Z77-I Deluxe for a good discount, I'm your man


----------



## HPE1000

Like how much are we speaking?


----------



## TapTapTempo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> 780 will fit without a doubt, but the a70, you will need either a z77 p8z77i deluxe if you are on z77, or many of the new z87 itx boards because the cpu socket is further from the pcie slot.


Thanks


----------



## Anoxy

Is it possible to order motherboard stand offs for my Arc Midi R2? One of them got stripped =\


----------



## HPE1000

Standoffs are universal as far as I know.


----------



## Anoxy

Aha, you're right. Should have just checked on Amazon first. My bad.


----------



## michael-ocn

A DefineR5 that fits 2x140 rads (like the kraken60 or the h110) up top would be super cool, would be great for -E builds.


----------



## failwheeldrive

deleted

misread original post


----------



## jcamp6336

Thinking of selling my white R4 with window which happens to be flawless. With all parts and accessories.


----------



## stnz

Why would you do that jcamp ?


----------



## jcamp6336

i want an arc mini r2


----------



## newone757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jcamp6336*
> 
> Thinking of selling my white R4 with window which happens to be flawless. With all parts and accessories.


I am too


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> A DefineR5 that fits 2x140 rads (like the kraken60 or the h110) up top would be super cool, would be great for -E builds.


are you sure that right now this ktis doesnt fit?

see my picture, i have a koolance 2x140 and there are space but not the holes


----------



## Lef013

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizNasty*
> 
> Alright, my buddy who basically did everything in the setup took this pic of the build, I guess he felt my pics didn't give his work justice lol...
> 
> http://s538.photobucket.com/user/mavdrdru/media/IMAG0019_zpsb573c8f7.jpg.html
> 
> Oh and forgot to mention it's OC'd to 4.7, at 1.28v! temps are amazing


Hey what radiator are you using for top and front ?
BTW your build is clean and awesome.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> are you sure that right now this ktis doesnt fit?
> 
> see my picture, i have a koolance 2x140 and there are space but not the holes


Just going by what I've read... folks seem to say not really close to fitting up top, but it can be made to work up front but you have to mod/force some things to do it. Maybe that's not accurate, but that's what i've read.

Where's the picture?

edit: ah, in the pictures of this build, http://cdn.overclock.net/6/65/650873f3_4c743422fdcadefr4bl7.jpeg,
so some 2x140 rads can fit up top


----------



## TIEAdvanced

One (probable noob) question regarding the soon to be released arc mini r2: would the gene vi be more suited to sli in this case because it's pcix16 ports are at 1 and 3, whereas the sniper m5's are at what seem to be 1 and 4 thus favoring the 350d?

If it makes no difference I would like to go for the sniper but I don't want to run into trouble down the road when I try to do sli.


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TIEAdvanced*
> 
> One (probable noob) question regarding the soon to be released arc mini r2: would the gene vi be more suited to sli in this case because it's pcix16 ports are at 1 and 3, whereas the sniper m5's are at what seem to be 1 and 4 thus favoring the 350d?
> 
> If it makes no difference I would like to go for the sniper but I don't want to run into trouble down the road when I try to do sli.


Sli on the Sniper wont fit the Arc mini. The bottom GPU is going to hit the power supply.


----------



## Sencha

For anyone interested in the Arc Mini V2 in the UK, Fractal are saying end of August.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*


The Node is just so damn sexy, not like that Prodigy pig.


----------



## CM Aztec

i wonder how would arc xl look like white. (btw if someone knows how to use photoshop can they make a preview or something, was really thinking of buying arc xl when it comes out to europe and paint it white but not sure how it will look


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! Might get the white version once it's on sale.


----------



## HPE1000

Yeah, I need to get fractal to send me a new mesh piece for the front panel because mine is slightly bent up and makes gaps


----------



## Anoxy

So what does it mean if a fan connected to the built-in fan controller on my Arc Midi R2 will only run on the "5V" option? If I switch it to the 7 or 12V spots, it shuts off.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So what does it mean if a fan connected to the built-in fan controller on my Arc Midi R2 will only run on the "5V" option? If I switch it to the 7 or 12V spots, it shuts off.


5v is slowest speed, 7v is middle and 12v is max.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> Yeah, I need to get fractal to send me a new mesh piece for the front panel because mine is slightly bent up and makes gaps
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you take apart and adjust that yourself.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 5v is slowest speed, 7v is middle and 12v is max.


Yes, I know that. But the fan shuts off when I switch it to 7V or 12V. Why would that happen?


----------



## MiiX

Check if the 12v and 7v cables are connected properly.


----------



## Anoxy

Wait, the three cables are each different voltages...?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Hey guys, just wanted to introduce myself as I'm new to the Fractal club. I've downsized from my Phantom 630 to an Arc Midi r2 and couldn't be happier. I'll post pics and a link to my build log once I've finished gathering my parts for wc.

I've been sleeving my front panel today and made the total noob mistake of not drawing up a diagram for the fan controller's molex power cable. I planned on copying the colors down but got distracted and forgot to do it lol. Could another Midi r2 owner check out the colors on their fan controller molex cable for me? I know the order of the cables (yellow/black/black/red) but don't know which side of the molex connector the yellow and red wires go into. I could really use the help, I'd hate to burn something out on my brand new case. Thanks guys!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Check if the 12v and 7v cables are connected properly.


There is no 12/7v cables.

Is there anything else connected to the molex line?
On mine I use the fan controller to turn on/off the LED strip I use. 12v is max, while 7/5v is too dim.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Hey guys, just wanted to introduce myself as I'm new to the Fractal club. I've downsized from my Phantom 630 to an Arc Midi r2 and couldn't be happier. I'll post pics and a link to my build log once I've finished gathering my parts for wc.
> 
> I've been sleeving my front panel today and made the total noob mistake of not drawing up a diagram for the fan controller's molex power cable. I planned on copying the colors down but got distracted and forgot to do it lol. Could another Midi r2 owner check out the colors on their fan controller molex cable for me? I know the order of the cables (yellow/black/black/red) but don't know which side of the molex connector the yellow and red wires go into. I could really use the help, I'd hate to burn something out on my brand new case. Thanks guys!


Does this help?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Sorry its upside down I am using my phone.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> There is no 12/7v cables.
> 
> Is there anything else connected to the molex line?
> On mine I use the fan controller to turn on/off the LED strip I use. 12v is max, while 7/5v is too dim.


Nope. I'm thinking it might be that my PSU is insufficient, because if I plug the fan into my 4th fan header on my mobo, it doesn't work either.

I just filed a return for my AX750 and ordered an AX860i. It doesn't seem very likely, but it's the only thing I can think of.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nope. I'm thinking it might be that my PSU is insufficient, because if I plug the fan into my 4th fan header on my mobo, it doesn't work either.
> 
> I just filed a return for my AX750 and ordered an AX860i. It doesn't seem very likely, but it's the only thing I can think of.


Why order a AX860i i sorta get the AX860 but why the i ???

Not trying to be rude just asking


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why order a AX860i i get the AX860 but why the i ???


Plat. rated and less double wires for sleeving. And its a top notch ps.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Does this help?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry its upside down I am using my phone.


Repped, thank you so much! I've learned my lesson now.... always write down the colors before disconnecting the pins lol. Appreciate it bud


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Plat. rated and less double wires for sleeving. And its a top notch ps.


Are you aware that the i models are way way overpriced and the Cosair link sortware that you pay all that for does not work and is flat out broken

And the 80 plus is marketing hype not a sign of quality


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Why order a AX860i i sorta get the AX860 but why the i ???
> 
> Not trying to be rude just asking


What gdubc said, and I also have Corsair H100i, so it made sense to just get the i version so I can monitor both through Corsair Link software. I have the money, so I figured why not.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What gdubc said, and I also have Corsair H100i, so it made sense to just get the i version so I can monitor both through Corsair Link software. I have the money, so I figured why not.


Yeah other then the Corsair link software you paied for works like crap if it even feels like working at all


----------



## gdubc

I paid 150 and dont use the link crap so I dont think thats overpriced for a top notch ps.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I paid 150 and dont use the link crap so I dont think thats overpriced for a top notch ps.


You can find just as good or better units for around the same price or lower

Not saying what you bought is bad its just the Cosair AX i series i is the single worst rippoff of all the PSU´s you can buy maybe other then the old EVGA units and the Enermax units


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Yeah other then the Corsair link software you paied for works like crap if it even feels like working at all


You have a strong opinion. I don't really care.

I could have gotten the Seasonic 850-X instead, but I'll 'waste' my money wherever I please, thanks. This isn't the power supply thread, so let's keep your strong opinions out of here


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You have a strong opinion. I don't really care.
> 
> I could have gotten the Seasonic 850-X instead, but I'll 'waste' my money wherever I please, thanks. This isn't the power supply thread, so let's keep your strong opinions out of here


I was just trying to help you not insult you


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I was just trying to help you not insult you


You aren't going to help anyone by repeatedly saying how much of a rip-off something is. You should try to explain _why_ it's a ripoff and touch on the features of certain other PSUs that are 'better' and more worth my money.

Just saying something is crap and is a rip-off helps nobody.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You aren't going to help anyone by repeatedly saying how much of a rip-off something is. You should try to explain _why_ it's a ripoff and touch on the features of certain other PSUs that are 'better' and more worth my money.
> 
> Just saying something is crap and is a rip-off helps nobody.


First off i cant read minds

Second here is why
http://www.overclock.net/t/1324891/corsair-deny-all-knowledge-ax1200i-software-broken-probably-applies-to-ax860i-and-ax760i-as-well

Third that thread has been around for a long time so i assumed it was a known thread

And two cables has said the same thing as me for far longer then i have


----------



## gdubc

The seasonic is full of double wires, just like the ax850 is. If you sleeve, the newer i models are easier.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> First off i cant read minds
> 
> Second here is why
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1324891/corsair-deny-all-knowledge-ax1200i-software-broken-probably-applies-to-ax860i-and-ax760i-as-well
> 
> Third that thread has been around for a long time so i assumed it was a known thread
> 
> And two cables has said the same thing as me for far longer then i have


You still haven't pointed me towards better alternatives. I can still cancel my order on the AX860i....if there's something with equally nice cables, good efficiency, and available from Amazon Prime, I'm all ears.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You still haven't pointed me towards better alternatives. I can still cancel my order on the AX860i....if there's something with equally nice cables, good efficiency, and available from Amazon Prime, I'm all ears.


Where are you from that might help narrow down some options

Was not trying to be rude so if you felt insulted then sory

The obvious first is just the normal AX860

Second options is the new Cooler Master V series thats an improved Seasonic KM3 platform

Number 3 is the NZXT HALE 90 V2 but thats a white PSU

Number 4 is the OCZ ZX

Then comes all the semi modular units and there are tons of new modular units on the way as well


----------



## dbrisc

In the computex videos I've seen Linus' mostly if I remember correctly the arc xl and midi r2 look to be next to each other. It seems like they are the same case almost isn't the xl a full size or are my eyes just that awful and I can't read? Just curious because I'm thinking one of those will be my next case. Just wishing it was offered in white but I'm up for painting!


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Where are you from that might help narrow down some options
> 
> Was not trying to be rude so if you felt insulted then sory
> 
> The obvious first is just the normal AX860
> 
> Second options is the new Cooler Master V series thats an improved Seasonic KM3 platform
> 
> Number 3 is the NZXT HALE 90 V2 but thats a white PSU
> 
> Number 4 is the OCZ ZX


Not offended, just learning and would appreciate some good information instead of baseless product bashing.

The normal AX860 is the same price as the AX860i, which is why I chose the i version in the first place. It seems like there's no reason not to get it.

I will look at the others, thank you.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Not offended, just learning and would appreciate some good information instead of baseless product bashing.
> 
> The normal AX860 is the same price as the AX860i, which is why I chose the i version in the first place. It seems like there's no reason not to get it.
> 
> I will look at the others, thank you.


The NZXT HALE 90 V2 and Coolmaster V series are able to trade blows with the Seasonic and Cosair units so they are good options

The OCZ is more like a step below sure its not bad but it could be better as its made by Great Wall

HALE 90 V2 is a custom FSP design made just for NZXT so that one is unique like the AX860i

Oh and the AX860 is a Seasonic unit but the AX860i is a Flextronics unit so they have nothing to do with each other

if you look under my sig there is lots of PSU info threads

Off topic back to cases


----------



## dtmorgwsu

Not perfect. But I jammed a lot into this case! Arc Midi R2.



And Anoxy.. when I first leak tested my build I had that exact issue. I'm pretty sure that it couldn't handle swapping voltages around with my pump attached to it. Since then I have had just fans running and haven't had any issues.


----------



## michael-ocn

To most of us (at least me), it's really not so obvious what PSUs are better than others or really how to compare them to one another aside from power and 80 rating fluff. The "recommended list" tells me which are deemed good, but not really what gets them on the list. All's i know is, if/when i need a new PSU, i'm gonna get some model of Seasonic, but i don't know why exactly







Its good to know that corsair ax860 is really a seasonic, that's not so obvious either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Where are you from that might help narrow down some options
> 
> Was not trying to be rude so if you felt insulted then sory
> 
> The obvious first is just the normal AX860
> 
> Second options is the new Cooler Master V series thats an improved Seasonic KM3 platform
> 
> Number 3 is the NZXT HALE 90 V2 but thats a white PSU
> 
> Number 4 is the OCZ ZX
> 
> Then comes all the semi modular units and there are tons of new modular units on the way as well


----------



## PCBuilder94

Just finished my Arc Mini WC build... atleast halfway just need cpu and gpu... Cable Management done it took me 4 hours. Had to ziptie res to hdd cage but hey atleast it works. I also decided to save money and just use the fans in the case for my RAD!


----------



## PCBuilder94

Using the included PCIe fan controller to control my pump...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Just finished my Arc Mini WC build... atleast halfway just need cpu and gpu... Cable Management done it took me 4 hours. Had to ziptie res to hdd cage but hey atleast it works. I also decided to save money and just use the fans in the case for my RAD!


I've been told that's not the best idea because case fans typically have poor static pressure.


----------



## mrrockwell

Omg they are multiplying


----------



## stnz

Wow that is pretty nice !
Cool mod on the right one


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrrockwell*
> 
> Omg they are multiplying


Another project???

Your last mod was outstanding, how are you going to top it?


----------



## PCBuilder94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I've been told that's not the best idea because case fans typically have poor static pressure.


its just temporary but I have a little painting to do today.


----------



## tasdefleja

Update...


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tasdefleja*
> 
> Update...


Very Nice!!!







Except for that rainbow colored motherboard power cable....Get a sleeved extension lol


----------



## tasdefleja

Thanks.
I have to do something about it but I do not have time for this...lately


----------



## PCBuilder94

[/URL]


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Another project???
> 
> Your last mod was outstanding, how are you going to top it?


My thoughts exactly..


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tasdefleja*
> 
> Update...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Redundant pictures


Wow, quite a nice build you got there, some sleeving / sleeved extensions would have been nice indeed,
But what interest me more is the PSU, which one is it and what kind of sticker did you put there ?


----------



## JMatzelle303

Does anyone know if the door will close if I use the nzxt hue in the drive bay or do the knobs stick out to much


----------



## tasdefleja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Wow, quite a nice build you got there, some sleeving / sleeved extensions would have been nice indeed,
> But what interest me more is the PSU, which one is it and what kind of sticker did you put there ?


Thanks.
It is a plain black piece of paper. Nothing special.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Got nervous trying to watercool my arc mini never even filked it... I selling alk my brand new WC GEAR


----------



## Hogwasher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Got nervous trying to watercool my arc mini never even filked it... I selling alk my brand new WC GEAR


you can do it!









Honestly what made you change your mind?

Plenty of knowledge, advice, and encouragement available on this site


----------



## PCBuilder94

I'm scared my green phobya fluid will leak everywhere and I would like to have room to mount cabkes. With my reservoir inside I have no room... wait... can I mount my res on the back of my case?


----------



## gdubc

You can mount it wherever you like as long as you keep it above/feeding the pump. Just put down plenty of paper towels and watch it closely at first for leaks. You should be fine, and not get your gear firehosed down if it does leak.


----------



## Deep1923

this was my system 2011/november


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tasdefleja*
> 
> Update...


I like where this is going......just my style!


----------



## tasdefleja

Thanks a lot.
When I get new fans and extension'll add better pictures.


----------



## oshu

Decided to replace the red led in my R3


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> Does anyone know if the door will close if I use the nzxt hue in the drive bay or do the knobs stick out to much


I don't know if the knobs stick out and interfere with the door but you can always just mount it further back in the 5.25 bay if space is an issue


----------



## sWaY20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> Does anyone know if the door will close if I use the nzxt hue in the drive bay or do the knobs stick out to much


Yes it will, I have this setup and the door closed normally. The knobs don't stick out that much.

tappin from a N E X U S


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> Does anyone know if the door will close if I use the nzxt hue in the drive bay or do the knobs stick out to much


Yes the door will close with no problems.


----------



## BlackskyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> Does anyone know if the door will close if I use the nzxt hue in the drive bay or do the knobs stick out to much


However this will happen over time.


----------



## Pebruska

So, Theodora (i know, not the best of names) went through some changes (lost a little weight) and she's looking better than ever.



Spoiler: More pictures.



Before and after her diet.









Can you guys give me some tips on how to remove fingerprints from this case?

No major restrictions in airflow









Easy fit.

Mmm, smexy *Drools*

Cable management is horrible, but that's pretty much what i expected from this small case.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Anyone try to put a window on there arc mini?


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pebruska*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So, Theodora (i know, not the best of names) went through some changes (lost a little weight) and she's looking better than ever.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> Before and after her diet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you guys give me some tips on how to remove fingerprints from this case?
> 
> No major restrictions in airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Easy fit.
> 
> Mmm, smexy *Drools*
> 
> Cable management is horrible, but that's pretty much what i expected from this small case.


Love it, and yeah, the fingerprints really stick to this case, I use a cloth and some multipurpose cleaner to get them off.

My cooler should get here today so I might take another stab at working on my cable management.


----------



## OzMan84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Decided to replace the red led in my R3


How'd you get the power button out? I can't seem to get it out without the feeling somethings going to snap


----------



## R0yy

If I want to move my SSD behind the motherboard tray, I probably have to pull my motherboard out of my R4?


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R0yy*
> 
> If I want to move my SSD behind the motherboard tray, I probably have to pull my motherboard out of my R4?


You don't have to screw it in though.
I just use some decent quality velcro. Works perfectly fine.


----------



## foxrocks

Hi guys, I'm thinking about getting a Define Mini and am trying to choose a CPU heatsink to go with it. Has anyone ITT successfully fitted a Noctua NH-D14 in this case? It seems like it might be a tight fit at 160mm tall.

If not I may end up going for the NH-U12S perhaps, as that is listed as 158mm tall and should fit.

Other high end air coolers like the Phanteks, Silver Arrow, K2 etc will be too tall AFAIK as they are all around the 165mm mark.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzMan84*
> 
> How'd you get the power button out? I can't seem to get it out without the feeling somethings going to snap


Removed two screws, which held a tiny piece of plastic in place.
After removing that piece I simply pushed the power button down until it popped out...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxrocks*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm thinking about getting a Define Mini and am trying to choose a CPU heatsink to go with it. Has anyone ITT successfully fitted a Noctua NH-D14 in this case? It seems like it might be a tight fit at 160mm tall.
> 
> If not I may end up going for the NH-U12S perhaps, as that is listed as 158mm tall and should fit.
> 
> Other high end air coolers like the Phanteks, Silver Arrow, K2 etc will be too tall AFAIK as they are all around the 165mm mark.


Yeah the D14 fits in the Define Mini. A few people have posted pictures in this thread. ChesterCat is the one that comes to mind.


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yeah the D14 fits in the Define Mini. A few people have posted pictures in this thread. ChesterCat is the one that comes to mind.


SoOOooOOOoooOO much money in noctua fans, I am debating buying 2 92mm and 2 140mm in black once they make them.


----------



## SclerosiS

Modded Core 3000 USB3.0












What remains to be done:
1. one 120mm for front down;
2. one 140mm for up;
3. - filling the gaps with black silicone between the edges of the front panel and the piece of polysterene i wrapped in black matte foil;
4. - put rubber rings that will be glued (will go to some water piping stuff shop) on the fan cutouts so the circles look even.
5. - close the side fan slot (it makes me mad) with the same black matte foil.


----------



## SclerosiS

5. goes away. Just did it.


----------



## jezzer

Got my Arc Midi R2 today.

Looks really nice, me is happy

Hope it can cool my gpus good enough tho


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R0yy*
> 
> If I want to move my SSD behind the motherboard tray, I probably have to pull my motherboard out of my R4?


Yes you do









Such a flawed design, especially coming from Fractal. There's always double-sided tape or velcro.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, I was just thinking about moving my SSDs to the HDD bays because the SATA power connectors are extremely torqued to get to my SSDs on the back of the mobo tray. I feel like it's probably not very good for the cables, or the drives' power slots. Sucks that I have to remove the motherboard to remove them though....wish I would have thought of velcro beforehand


----------



## zinfinion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I was just thinking about moving my SSDs to the HDD bays because the SATA power connectors are extremely torqued to get to my SSDs on the back of the mobo tray.


Why not just get some SATA power extensions? That would remove all the torquing.


----------



## Anoxy

Yeah, that's on my to-do list. More cables to manage though ugh


----------



## R0yy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Yes you do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Such a flawed design, especially coming from Fractal. There's always double-sided tape or velcro.


Ill probaly go with rhe velcro. Cheers!


----------



## .theMetal

there is a product made by 3m, they are called picture hanging strips. they are similar to velcro, but rough on both sides, and click together nice and tight. I would imagine them being perfect for mounting an ssd


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> there is a product made by 3m, they are called picture hanging strips. they are similar to velcro, but rough on both sides, and click together nice and tight. I would imagine them being perfect for mounting an ssd


Dual Lock is also amazing. Sooo much better than velcro. But make sure and get the low profile version...here's an amazon link


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Dual Lock is also amazing. Sooo much better than velcro. But make sure and get the low profile version...here's an amazon link


awesome







looks like a decent sized roll too


----------



## tingc222

Hi guys, new member here. Want to contribute









Just FYI. I was looking into pump controllers for a WC'ing setup i'm building with the R4. I contacted tech support since I couldn't find the max watt rating of the built-in fan controller of the front panel of the R4 (was hoping I could use it to adjust speed of 2 pumps). Here's their reply:

"Thank you for contacting us here at Fractal Design. The fan controller can technically control water cooling pumps, but I would not recommend it. The total wattage for the fan controller cannot exceed 15W. It is not limited by channel."

Hope this is useful. 15W isn't a lot for today's standards. High RPM fans may not be compatible with the built-in fan controller.


----------



## dbrisc

Some pics of the Arc XL went up on Facebook. That is one good looking case! It will be that or the Arc Midi r2 on my next build.









I'd throw a link on if I wasn't at work at the moment! I'll edit it put it up once I get home from work.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbrisc*
> 
> Some pics of the Arc XL went up on Facebook. That is one good looking case! It will be that or the Arc Midi r2 on my next build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd throw a link on if I wasn't at work at the moment! I'll edit it put it up once I get home from work.


https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.561681540549538.1073741826.154222594628770&type=1

posted for you.

The Arc XL is awesome. I will seriously consider moving from my Arc Midi R1.0 to the Arc XL. I was actually going to get the Arc Midi R2.0 cause i like the easy removable filters and ssd mounts on the motherboard tray. The XL though will give me even more room for my water cooling setup ) 2 radiators and more 5.25" bays which is just pure awesome because i still have a optical drive and I use it all the time.Would allow me to put the res/pump in the drive bay, and still keep my optical drive AND still have more drive mounting options. ( have 4 hard drives, 2 ssd's and 2 spinners.)

I want the XL so bad, been waiting for it to be released.


----------



## dbrisc

Beat to it! Hah! Anyone know how much bigger the xl will be than the midi or care to venture a guess?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbrisc*
> 
> Beat to it! Hah! Anyone know how much bigger the xl will be than the midi or care to venture a guess?


2 5.25" bays taller. What ever that is in inches or cm.


----------



## ceaze one

You gotta love Fractal design, coming out with the mini, midi, and XL all within a short amount of time. I don't think I've seen any other company listen to their customers as well as they do.


----------



## naossoan

Hey guys I'm running a Fractal Design Arc Mini with a Corsair H100 CPU cooler unit.

I contacted Fractal Design support because I noticed the Mini R2 has a windowed side-panel. I asked them if the side panel for the R2 will fit on the original and they said it would, however they said they do not sell the side panel only. I can't make my own window because I don't have any tools to do so nor do I know anyone that does. Well I mean I have a dremel but there is no way I will be doing some ghetto "by-hand" window cut out with a dremel.

Anyone know how I might go around getting one?

Also anyone know of a fan controller that looks slick in this case? I really want the actual Fractal Design one but again I contacted support regarding this because I can't seem to find it for sale anywhere. They told me they were having manufacturer/distributor setbacks for this product.

I was thinking the Bitfenix Hydra Pro, or the NZXT Sentry Mesh, but I don't know how they look in this case. I HATE knobs, and I HATE touch screens. I want a slider type fan controller with at least 5 fan channels.

Thanks!!


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naossoan*
> 
> Hey guys I'm running a Fractal Design Arc Mini with a Corsair H100 CPU cooler unit.
> 
> I contacted Fractal Design support because I noticed the Mini R2 has a windowed side-panel. I asked them if the side panel for the R2 will fit on the original and they said it would, however they said they do not sell the side panel only. I can't make my own window because I don't have any tools to do so nor do I know anyone that does. Well I mean I have a dremel but there is no way I will be doing some ghetto "by-hand" window cut out with a dremel.
> 
> Anyone know how I might go around getting one?
> 
> Also anyone know of a fan controller that looks slick in this case? I really want the actual Fractal Design one but again I contacted support regarding this because I can't seem to find it for sale anywhere. They told me they were having manufacturer/distributor setbacks for this product.
> 
> I was thinking the Bitfenix Hydra Pro, or the NZXT Sentry Mesh, but I don't know how they look in this case. I HATE knobs, and I HATE touch screens. I want a slider type fan controller with at least 5 fan channels.
> 
> Thanks!!


Based on your preferences I'd go with the Lamptron FC9 http://www.lamptron.com/product/controllers/fc9/. Only has four channels, but each one is a massive 50w, so you can run tons of fans or pumps on each channel. Best looking controller in its class as well. Kinda pricey though... sucks that the Adjust 108 is having production problems right now.

I'm stuck between the FC9 or the Phobya Touch (which is a rebranded FC touch I believe.)


----------



## naossoan

Thank you very much for your suggestion. I do like its fundamental design of it but I don't really like the flashy lights. That and it's very expensive. With 50 Watts per channel I could put all my 5 fans on 1 lead! But I can't really afford $65 (More like $90 after tax and shipping) for a fan controller. I thought even the two that I had mentioned were kind of expensive. I guess that one just costs so much because of the huge power capabilities?

I say $65 because it's that much in Canada. It will be more if I buy it from the US after exchange, shipping, and duties...Sometimes I hate living in Canada, but only when I am buying things!!! haha

http://www.ncix.com/products/?sku=66946&vpn=FC-FC9-B&manufacture=Lamptron&promoid=1056

And yes, I was quite unhappy that the Adjust 108 was not available. After seeing it on their site I was like oh my goodness, that fan controller would by far look the best in my Arc Mini compared to any of the other ones I had found....and was sad when I couldn't find it for sale anywhere. And even more sad when they told me it would not be available for an unknown period of time due to distribution issues!!

Maybe I will just have to wait for it.


----------



## ceaze one

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naossoan*
> 
> Hey guys I'm running a Fractal Design Arc Mini with a Corsair H100 CPU cooler unit.
> 
> I contacted Fractal Design support because I noticed the Mini R2 has a windowed side-panel. I asked them if the side panel for the R2 will fit on the original and they said it would, however they said they do not sell the side panel only. I can't make my own window because I don't have any tools to do so nor do I know anyone that does. Well I mean I have a dremel but there is no way I will be doing some ghetto "by-hand" window cut out with a dremel.
> 
> Anyone know how I might go around getting one?
> 
> Also anyone know of a fan controller that looks slick in this case? I really want the actual Fractal Design one but again I contacted support regarding this because I can't seem to find it for sale anywhere. They told me they were having manufacturer/distributor setbacks for this product.
> 
> I was thinking the Bitfenix Hydra Pro, or the NZXT Sentry Mesh, but I don't know how they look in this case. I HATE knobs, and I HATE touch screens. I want a slider type fan controller with at least 5 fan channels.
> 
> Thanks!!





If you are having trouble finding a windowed side panel for your Arc you can always wait for the R2 to go on sale and get it cheap that way lol. I bought mine for $65/shipped from NCIX's Memorial Day sale, which is almost half the price. I think at that price it's okay to go ahead and buy the newer version, it's worth it for the upgrades. I'm just like you, I don't have the tools and skills to cut out my own window and I want it to look straight from the factory, which a lot of custom windows don't look that clean imo. Just thought I'd put that out there.


----------



## naossoan

Yes exactly. The only reason I found out about the Arc Mini R2 was because I just built a gaming PC for my parent's exchange student, which I built in a Arc MIDI R2. I was like oh, cool, they have an R2 version of the MIDI, how wonderful.

Then I went to the Fractal Design website and found that they had an R2 version of the Mini as well. I was like *bah!* Then I saw that it had a nice looking window in it (and I don' t usually like windows much) and was double *BAH!*

I got the MIDI R2 from NCIX at one of the recent sales as well for I think $69.99.

I got a steal of a deal on my Arc Mini maybe...6 or 7 months ago because NCIX had it on sale for 59.99, but I was living in Manitoba at the time and Memory Express had them in stock and they beat prices and their's was not on sale, so I got it for $49.99!! I got the case home and was like wow. This is really the best deal on a case, ever.


----------



## stnz

50$ for an Arc Mini ?
It is indeed the best deal on a case haha


----------



## Vash101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbrisc*
> 
> Beat to it! Hah! Anyone know how much bigger the xl will be than the midi or care to venture a guess?


XL - Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 572 x 552mm
Midi - Case dimensions (WxHxD): 230 x 460 x 515mm


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tasdefleja*


Really nice build, i kinda wanted to do something similar with Fractal design define R4 White + Prolimatech mk-26 + Genesis + Vortex14 fans, but i fear the weight of the mk26, are you using anything to sustain the wieght? would you mind taking a side picture to see how much it flexes?


----------



## tasdefleja

Thanks.
Mk-26 is very heavy.
I do not use anything, but I think about it.

Picture.


----------



## Abula

Thanks for the pic +rep, thats what i was expecting.

I was also thinking on using PowerColor Power Jack Graphics Card Support, specially cause i was planning on using the prolimatech vertex 14, which are not square that will have a space where i could install it between the fans on a top corner, you probably could too between the fans. Im still thinking on mk26 such a nice cooler but so much wieght.

Btw from the pic i dont see any of the small heatsinks for the memory n mosfets, you didnt install them?


----------



## tasdefleja

Yep! I didn't install them because the gpu isn't overclock.


----------



## vangsfreaken

ah, i want the arc mini r2... if only i could afford watercooling







also, the node 304 is tempting, will it fit an ax860 if i remove that psu-bracket? (i'll just use velcro)








EDIT: also, have anyone had success with a d14 in there?


----------



## jezzer

Done building all my stuff in it, now fresh install of windows. Gonna be a long day


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Done building all my stuff in it, now fresh install of windows. Gonna be a long day


Nice clean b&w look in there. Those palit gpu coolers look substantial!

I'd be curious to know what your gpu temps look like once you get it up and running and about how you've got case cooling setup? Will you be running with a side mounted case fan too, and is the h220 rad setup as intake or exhaust? I'm curious because I think I'd like to build an SLI rig in an R4|ArcMidi case with the h220 cooler as my next rig.


----------



## stnz

What are these GPU ? Never heard of Palit


----------



## PCBuilder94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> What are these GPU ? Never heard of Palit


I think its a UK Brand? I think they are there EVFA EQUIVALENT


----------



## jezzer

Thanks, I really like the logos too in this build.

There is no side fan in the arc midi r2 so I am really curious too.
My previous case had two side fans which really helped cooling the gpus but those where different ones.

Have not tested this setup but gtxs 770s seem to pack quite some heat and these are also factory overclocked by quite an amount so I really hope its gonna work.

The h220 is intake with nff12's and the only outtake is a 140mm on the back.

The 120mm on the bottom and the dual 140mm fans in front are also intake.

The gpus are going to get enough fresh n cool air I just hope the single outtake can get enough hot air out of the case otherwise I am screwed lol.

@stnz those are gtx 770s
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/palit_geforce_gtx_770_jetstream_review,1.html


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Done building all my stuff in it, now fresh install of windows. Gonna be a long day
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are you using the cooler as an intake or exhaust? If exhaust move the fans to the bottom and push the air through the radiator, more effective than pulling.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Thanks, I really like the logos too in this build.
> 
> There is no side fan in the arc midi r2 so I am really curious too.
> My previous case had two side fans which really helped cooling the gpus but those where different ones.
> 
> Have not tested this setup but gtxs 770s seem to pack quite some heat and these are also factory overclocked by quite an amount so I really hope its gonna work.
> 
> The h220 is intake with nff12's and the only outtake is a 140mm on the back.
> 
> The 120mm on the bottom and the dual 140mm fans in front are also intake.
> 
> The gpus are going to get enough fresh n cool air I just hope the single outtake can get enough hot air out of the case otherwise I am screwed lol.
> 
> @stnz those are gtx 770s
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/palit_geforce_gtx_770_jetstream_review,1.html


I'm rooting for the positive pressure gods to smile upon your work









I would have set it up as all intake like that too and rely on pressure to kick it out. I think the define and the arcmidi share the same side doors, so if you need to, it might be possible to get a side panel with a fan mount in it. Also, you have the option of removing unused slot covers if/when the time comes.


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> My Core 1000 as of today. New cpu cooler on its way and hopefully new motherboard, cpu, and ssd this summer.
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/202/009ssv.jpg/


Your RIG is AMAZING! and fantastic job!


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Your RIG is AMAZING! and fantastic job!


It is always amazing to me the amount of money people drop on uber high end rigs when a well made, balanced rig can be made with a lot less money.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Well I'm adding a 120mm rad to my loop. Going to have to WC my Gpu as I wont have enough airflow for an aircooled GPU!


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> ah, i want the arc mini r2... if only i could afford watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, the node 304 is tempting, will it fit an ax860 if i remove that psu-bracket? (i'll just use velcro)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: also, have anyone had success with a d14 in there?


anyone?


----------



## jezzer

Hmm GPUs getting too hot in the case i think.

I dont know if the panel of the define matches the arc midi2 but seeing where the fanmount is it is too high. Need it blowing on both gpus.

I think i am going to mod the panel and make two fanmounts in the window of the panel of the arc midi2. Have to wait till friday tho, no time this week


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jezzer*
> 
> Hmm GPUs getting too hot in the case i think.
> 
> I dont know if the panel of the define matches the arc midi2 but seeing where the fanmount is it is too high. Need it blowing on both gpus.
> 
> I think i am going to mod the panel and make two fanmounts in the window of the panel of the arc midi2. Have to wait till friday tho, no time this week


Bummer







I wonder if a pair of shrouded blower style coolers would be better suited for SLI in general?

I don't know how close you are temp wise, but if not too far off, it may be that with a pair of different 140 intake fans, you could get all the way there?


----------



## HPE1000

My replacement mesh piece for the node 304 is going to get here tomorrow, hopefully it goes on well and looks nice.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Thread cleaned.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Thread cleaned.


Thank you!


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Thread cleaned.


lol thanks


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Thank you!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*
> 
> lol thanks


No problem guys. It's what I'm here for.


----------



## dbrisc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Thread cleaned.


Thank you!


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Thread cleaned.


How did you clean it ? 
Do you clean other stuff as well ?

Thanks


----------



## ZeVo

How would you guys go about cleaning the filters on the original Midi without taking the mesh off? I don't want to remove it as I have already broke the tabs on my previous two ones I had. Maybe a leaf blower..?


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GAMERIG*
> 
> Your RIG is AMAZING! and fantastic job!


Thanks for the props. I'll post a updated picture sometime this week when I get around to it.


----------



## UKiY

Hi guys!
I'm thinking of buying CM Seidon 240 M water-cooling but not sure it will fit in Arc Midi without modding...

What do you think?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UKiY*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I'm thinking of buying CM Seidon 240 M water-cooling but not sure it will fit in Arc Midi without modding...
> 
> What do you think?


Arc Midi R2 can fit 240 rad without any issues.
many videos out there to see.


----------



## Anoxy

Just beware that it also depends on your motherboard. I have the Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H which has a big notch at the top that prevented me from using a Corsair H110 (240mm) in my Arc Midi R2.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Just beware that it also depends on your motherboard. I have the Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H which has a big notch at the top that prevented me from using a Corsair H110 (240mm) in my Arc Midi R2.


You shouldnt have had any issues with clearance on any mobo for Arc Midi R2.
You can fit 60mm rad in Push/pull on top.
H110 is a 280 rad, not 240. H110i is a 240.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You shouldnt have had any issues with clearance on any mobo for Arc Midi R2.
> You can fit 60mm rad in Push/pull on top.


The h110 a 140 x 280 rad... its not a thinkness issue... length x width dimensions


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The h110 a 140 x 280 rad... its not a thinkness issue... length x width dimensions


I was talking about 240rad, not 280. Which is what the OP talked about that i comment on.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You shouldnt have had any issues with clearance on any mobo for Arc Midi R2.
> You can fit 60mm rad in Push/pull on top.
> H110 is a 280 rad, not 240. H110i is a 240.


Ah, whoops my mistake :3

I have the H100i now, which is 240mm. The H110 is 280mm and it didn't fit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, whoops my mistake :3
> 
> I have the H100i now, which is 240mm. The H110 is 280mm and it didn't fit.


The H110 is 20mm mounting spacing. Which is designed that way to work with Corsair cases. Standard is 15mm spacing.


----------



## CM Aztec

do thermalright ty140-147 fit in the front of the define r4


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> do thermalright ty140-147 fit in the front of the define r4


I dont think they will fit, but you can adapt it, check post #5435 and post #5370. Honestly i would use the included fans on front (included front and the back move to front) and just get a TY147 for the back.


----------



## michael-ocn

I'd love it if kraken x60 rad fit up top in these cases. The simplicity of true AIO cooler, but with a pretty darn big radiator that makes it a very effective cooler for people like me that are afraid of custom loops and such. A different h110 like package.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I'd love it if kraken x60 rad fit up top in these cases. The simplicity of true AIO cooler, but with a pretty darn big radiator that makes it a very effective cooler for people like me that are afraid of custom loops and such. A different h110 like package.


X60 is not a true AIO, Swiftech H220 is. X60 CLC, which is no different than any out there. only difference is the rad size.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> X60 is not a true AIO, Swiftech H220 is. X60 CLC, which is no different than any out there. only difference is the rad size.


ok then, i meant the true simplicity of a CLC


----------



## CM Aztec

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> I dont think they will fit, but you can adapt it, check post #5435 and post #5370. Honestly i would use the included fans on front (included front and the back move to front) and just get a TY147 for the back.


i already have 2 ty 147 and i wanna use them, the standard fans have really bad cfm compared to the ty147, there is no way i can put them in the front

nvm i guess zip ties are the way to go


----------



## CM Aztec

i dont know if i like the look of define r4 or not, im going through a phase of thinking gamer cases look ugly and wanting a more minimalistic design, anyone had the same feeling?


----------



## michael-ocn

Is the r4 a "gamer" case? I've never like the flashing lights and bizarro geometric shapes on some cases. I expect that's what you mean by "gamer" case. I like the looks of the r4 and the arcmidi too, nice clean non flashy designs.


----------



## gdubc

Yeah I don't get the gamer case thing. Cuz it has the window? I think they look pretty refined.


----------



## CM Aztec

oh i didnt mean that the r4 looks like a gamer case, though the window might make it seem like it


----------



## SclerosiS

Hi,

Can someone tell will the fan controller of core 3000 usb3.0 will handle two more fans (fd silent series r2 1x120 and 1x140) if i attach them to it or it wil s***w up? I will put it on max and leave it like this.Have heard that they are a bit crampy.

Thanks!


----------



## jcm27

Here is my XL R2











Really want a window for it


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Can someone tell will the fan controller of core 3000 usb3.0 will handle two more fans (fd silent series r2 1x120 and 1x140) if i attach them to it or it wil s***w up? I will put it on max and leave it like this.Have heard that they are a bit crampy.
> 
> Thanks!


It is a 3 channel fan controller.


----------



## AD0BE

long time off ocn..

And when I'm looking through thi tgread I'm happy to be back


----------



## SclerosiS

Sp33d i know that. Will make it with 2 splitters 3-pin fan to 2x3-pin fan and the 1 spliiter that comes with the fan controller which i 1-pin to 3x3-pin.. Just want to know will it handle them. Dont worry about the connecting.


----------



## steelkevin

I sold my NZXT Phantom like a week ago and I ordered a Midi R2 this morning.
Where would you lot recommend putting a 250ml cylinder reservoir knowing that I'll have a 55mm thick 280mm EK radiator up front with 4 Akasa Apaches in Push/pull and another 55mm thick 280mm EK rad up top but with only two fans (yates but they do the job) ? I was thinking about either putting it above the PSU against the rear of the case (which would mean I'd have to remove the rear fan unless I used something to have the reservoir 25mm further away from the back) or somehow mounting it to the front rad. In the Phantom I could just have it between the two rows of gromets but the Midi R2 doesn't have any metal on the right of the gromets so that probably wouldn't work.

Secondly, how would a 280mm rad fit up top ? Would it just slide inside the 5.25" or would the fact the mounting holes are offset make me have to entirely remove the 5.25' cage ? I wouldn't mind removing it, I've got no 5.25" parts anyway.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I sold my NZXT Phantom like a week ago and I ordered a Midi R2 this morning.
> Where would you lot recommend putting a 250ml cylinder reservoir knowing that I'll have a 55mm thick 280mm EK radiator up front with 4 Akasa Apaches in Push/pull and another 55mm thick 280mm EK rad up top but with only two fans (yates but they do the job) ? I was thinking about either putting it above the PSU against the rear of the case (which would mean I'd have to remove the rear fan unless I used something to have the reservoir 25mm further away from the back) or somehow mounting it to the front rad. In the Phantom I could just have it between the two rows of gromets but the Midi R2 doesn't have any metal on the right of the gromets so that probably wouldn't work.
> 
> Secondly, how would a 280mm rad fit up top ? Would it just slide inside the 5.25" or would the fact the mounting holes are offset make me have to entirely remove the 5.25' cage ? I wouldn't mind removing it, I've got no 5.25" parts anyway.


You could sell your 280, get a 240, keep your 5.25 and put your reservoir inside it


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> You could sell your 280, get a 240, keep your 5.25 and put your reservoir inside it


I could sell the 280mm and get a smaller 240mm but that'd mean I'd have to buy new fans too and I've got a car to buy so I'm not going to create unnecessary expenses







.
I don't see how a 250ml Cylindrical ("tube") reservoir could ever fit in those 5.25" bays though ^^.
Thanks for trying.

If anybody that has a Midi R2 can answer my questions it'd be great if not then I'll just have to wait till the case arrives to answer them myself


----------



## stnz

Search for optical bay reservoir, you'll find some, regarding the rad and the new fans well I don't know but a 280 is going to be a tight fit in a R2


----------



## PCBuilder94

Well guys my arc mini is done on Saturday. I'm thinking I might need to mount my res outside my case or my rad on the top of the case. It should all work out though. I have the balancer 150 res and that's the biggest pain to find a place to mount it...


----------



## dtmorgwsu

I've got a frozenq reservoir mounted to the front radiator in my case. Granted I've only got push fans on my rx240.


----------



## Anoxy

What's the best kind of paint to use if I want to make my Arc Midi case fans and PCI slot covers green?


----------



## PCBuilder94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What's the best kind of paint to use if I want to make my Arc Midi case fans and PCI slot covers green?


krylon


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Search for optical bay reservoir, you'll find some, regarding the rad and the new fans well I don't know but a 280 is going to be a tight fit in a R2


I don't think you understood my first post so nevermind.
Look at my signature, my water cooling loop is listed in the second "rig". I'm not looking to buy anything more or to sell or trade anything.
And yes, I know what a bay reservoir is, sigh...
Whether it's a tight fit or not wasn't my question.

Anybody who read and understood my first post feel free to answer any time.


----------



## hawker

My current system:

I cut a hole in the top of my Fractal Design Define XL case to fit in a 240 radiator





I got my 2x HD7970 Vapor-X yesterday, I'll post pics later with both cards installed


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I don't think you understood my first post so nevermind.
> Look at my signature, my water cooling loop is listed in the second "rig". I'm not looking to buy anything more or to sell or trade anything.
> And yes, I know what a bay reservoir is, sigh...
> Whether it's a tight fit or not wasn't my question.
> 
> Anybody who read and understood my first post feel free to answer any time.


My apologies then, someone enlighten me !


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hawker*
> 
> My current system:
> 
> I cut a hole in the top of my Fractal Design Define XL case to fit in a 240 radiator
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my 2x HD7970 Vapor-X yesterday, I'll post pics later with both cards installed


Love your build, too bad your pictures do not give it justice


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> What's the best kind of paint to use if I want to make my Arc Midi case fans and PCI slot covers green?


http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/1070#post_19360233

See my post in the Sniper 3 mobo thread.

Great paint w/ no pre-prep.


----------



## Jaapi

My first build, nothing special.

i5 3470
hd 7950 dual x
ssd and lots of storage.
the black paper sheet in between is darker irl


----------



## ScottAllyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaapi*
> 
> My first build, nothing special.


Looks nice, Jaapi. I'm Koros on the Star Citizen forums & chat, btw.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1259334/official-gigabyte-g1-sniper-3-m3-owners-thread-club/1070#post_19360233
> 
> See my post in the Sniper 3 mobo thread.
> 
> Great paint w/ no pre-prep.


Thank you sir. Wish I could find something on Amazon Prime though. Love that free two-day shipping.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thank you sir. Wish I could find something on Amazon Prime though. Love that free two-day shipping.


I couldn't agree more!
<3 Amazon Prime


----------



## 161029

Not sure if anybody has posted this already since I don't come in here that often.

http://fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=117


----------



## Anoxy

Damn, I'd love to have that case. If only I didn't need to switch to mATX to use it =/


----------



## mlibby1980

can anyone confirm that the front door on the Fractal Design Define XL R2 is steel and NOT plastic?


----------



## hawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> can anyone confirm that the front door on the Fractal Design Define XL R2 is steel and NOT plastic?


I'ts plastic.


----------



## iorekbyrnison

No love for the 605 in here?



I always hear that HTPC cases are a compromise of power for format, but I wanted this form factor, and I wanted power... so I made it work. Stuffed a proper powerhouse into the 605. Tight fit but it works wonderfully, and is pure class all closed up. I love Fractal's solid build quality, and classy clean looks.

FX-8350 8x4.2ghz, 2xGTX660 2GB, 32GB 1866mhz DDR3 DC'd to 1333mhz (discovered motherboard won't run it at 1866, don't much care)

I'm using all that power to run a 27" 120hz NVidia 3D monitor, and it handles everything of note, including Last Light, at full speed in 3D. I know that much memory is pointless for gaming - but I'm a video/graphics artist by day, so it makes life a lot easier when rendering.


----------



## Anoxy

That thing is jammed....what kind of temps do you get on the CPU and GPUs?


----------



## mlibby1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iorekbyrnison*
> 
> No love for the 605 in here?
> 
> 
> 
> I always hear that HTPC cases are a compromise of power for format, but I wanted this form factor, and I wanted power... so I made it work. Stuffed a proper powerhouse into the 605. Tight fit but it works wonderfully, and is pure class all closed up. I love Fractal's solid build quality, and classy clean looks.
> 
> FX-8350 8x4.2ghz, 2xGTX660 2GB, 32GB 1866mhz DDR3 DC'd to 1333mhz (discovered motherboard won't run it at 1866, don't much care)
> 
> I'm using all that power to run a 27" 120hz NVidia 3D monitor, and it handles everything of note, including Last Light, at full speed in 3D. I know that much memory is pointless for gaming - but I'm a video/graphics artist by day, so it makes life a lot easier when rendering.


would love to know the temps on that


----------



## iorekbyrnison

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> That thing is jammed....what kind of temps do you get on the CPU and GPUs?


I think the CPU sits at about 45C when gaming, and I haven't checked the GPUs - the exhaust air is pretty toasty but I don't experience any heat issues even with extended play, benchmark looping or rendering.

I did swap the Fractal fans for a set of much more powerful fans - louder, but I like some white noise, can't sleep without it. the three 120s are intake, the two 80s are exhaust. It moves a lot of air compared to stock fans, or I doubt it would run stable.

here are my 3DMarks at 4.5 OC, which didn't seem to be an issue, but I opted not to keep running, best not push my luck. I don't find it lacking at stock, so I don't really think it needs it. The FX8350 is a monster.

Ice Storm Extreme: http://www.3dmark.com/is/634629
Cloud Gate: http://www.3dmark.com/cg/566486
Fire Strike: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/603982
Fire Strike Extreme: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/603995


----------



## CaptainZombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iorekbyrnison*
> 
> No love for the 605 in here?
> 
> 
> 
> I always hear that HTPC cases are a compromise of power for format, but I wanted this form factor, and I wanted power... so I made it work. Stuffed a proper powerhouse into the 605. Tight fit but it works wonderfully, and is pure class all closed up. I love Fractal's solid build quality, and classy clean looks.
> 
> FX-8350 8x4.2ghz, 2xGTX660 2GB, 32GB 1866mhz DDR3 DC'd to 1333mhz (discovered motherboard won't run it at 1866, don't much care)
> 
> I'm using all that power to run a 27" 120hz NVidia 3D monitor, and it handles everything of note, including Last Light, at full speed in 3D. I know that much memory is pointless for gaming - but I'm a video/graphics artist by day, so it makes life a lot easier when rendering.


I had the 605 for a few weeks and really liked the case a lot for a HTPC case with heavy gaming. I also wanted to water cool my CPU and this case would not allow me to do that. So I ended up returning the case for the Silverstone Grandia GD08 which has more space in it as a HTPC case.

Here was my build in that case, that is awesome how you fit everything in there.

http://www.overclock.net/t/577082/show-your-htpc-pics-only/520_40#post_19950115


----------



## void

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iorekbyrnison*
> 
> No love for the 605 in here?
> 
> 
> 
> I always hear that HTPC cases are a compromise of power for format, but I wanted this form factor, and I wanted power... so I made it work. Stuffed a proper powerhouse into the 605. Tight fit but it works wonderfully, and is pure class all closed up. I love Fractal's solid build quality, and classy clean looks.
> 
> FX-8350 8x4.2ghz, 2xGTX660 2GB, 32GB 1866mhz DDR3 DC'd to 1333mhz (discovered motherboard won't run it at 1866, don't much care)
> 
> I'm using all that power to run a 27" 120hz NVidia 3D monitor, and it handles everything of note, including Last Light, at full speed in 3D. I know that much memory is pointless for gaming - but I'm a video/graphics artist by day, so it makes life a lot easier when rendering.


I really like the Node 605 pity it's not available in my location.


----------



## onin1911

Fractal Midi R2


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onin1911*
> 
> Fractal Midi R2


Holy crap that looks awesome

I really like how all the green goes together but does not overpower everything else

Why not turn your PSU around then you dont have to look at the sticker


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mlibby1980*
> 
> can anyone confirm that the front door on the Fractal Design Define XL R2 is steel and NOT plastic?


The plastic used is of good quality, you don't have to be afraid of it..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onin1911*


What motherboard is it? It looks like the VRM's aren't heatsinked.


----------



## onin1911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> The plastic used is of good quality, you don't have to be afraid of it..
> What motherboard is it? It looks like the VRM's aren't heatsinked.


Its a Gigabyte Sniper M3 mATX


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Which rad and res are used on this?
Are you going to WC the GPU later on? The top of the case can support 60mm 240 rad in push/pull.


----------



## onin1911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Which rad and res are used on this?
> Are you going to WC the GPU later on? The top of the case can support 60mm 240 rad in push/pull.


I actually made a mistake on getting the Swiftech 240mm Rad/Res combo. It did not fit the top, I also had problems at the front because the clips that holds the front filter are hitting the rad. I might change them up a bit If I have the time/money and possibly water cool the GPUs.


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onin1911*
> 
> Fractal Midi R2


..









Perfected. + REP for making an awesome build


----------



## Blitos

I contacted Fractal and asked them about a Define Mini R2.... They said:
Quote:


> We cannot disclose anything on the plans for a full year, but we *will not have a new version available at the market in the next few months*.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Hey guys, Just ordered a Arc Midi R2 from amazon, should be here Wednesday!


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onin1911*
> 
> Its a Gigabyte Sniper M3 mATX


Ah I see why now - it has such a high current delivery capatibility and integrated MOSFETs.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onin1911*
> 
> Fractal Midi R2


Now that's what I'm talking about!

Great work!







My PC feels a bit smaller now lol.....


----------



## Ivo119

Hey everyone! , I'm really thinking about getting a define R4 or a Arc Midi R2, Only thing that i'm now wondering to make my decision is how well does the define r4 Reduce noise with and without the windowed side panel(the one with only a fan mount)? is the reduced noise good? or doesn't it make any real (big) difference?


----------



## michael-ocn

I don't have an r4, but i do have a case with a front door that can open/close. Even without sound dampening lining the door, its noticeably quieter with the door closed, and airflow noticeably increases with the door open. I like the door







I'm pretty confident the r4 can make for a more peacefully quiet setup, especially if you don't need/use the top fan mounts and leave those sound dampening panels in place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ivo119*
> 
> Hey everyone! , I'm really thinking about getting a define R4 or a Arc Midi R2, Only thing that i'm now wondering to make my decision is how well does the define r4 Reduce noise with and without the windowed side panel(the one with only a fan mount)? is the reduced noise good? or doesn't it make any real (big) difference?


I've got a different question about the r4. Can plastic covers on the front fans seen in this pic be completely removed?
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2012/07/fractal-design-define-r4-review/define_r4-10b.jpg
And does that make a noticeable different in airflow when the case door is open?

I'm hoping the r4 can be a quiet case when wanted (with the door closed), but be as good at cooling as the arc midi when that's wanted (by opening the door).


----------



## Ivo119

The front cover you mean is not removable by default, because its on hinges that allow it to go flat so you can access the fan(filters), but you can possible remove it in some way but its hard to get back in later(or not possible).


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> I don't have an r4, but i do have a case with a front door that can open/close. Even without sound dampening lining the door, its noticeably quieter with the door closed, and airflow noticeably increases with the door open. I like the door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty confident the r4 can make for a more peacefully quiet setup, especially if you don't need/use the top fan mounts and leave those sound dampening panels in place.
> I've got a different question about the r4. Can plastic covers on the front fans seen in this pic be completely removed?
> http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2012/07/fractal-design-define-r4-review/define_r4-10b.jpg
> And does that make a noticeable different in airflow when the case door is open?
> 
> I'm hoping the r4 can be a quiet case when wanted (with the door closed), but be as good at cooling as the arc midi when that's wanted (by opening the door).


Yes it is removable. They make it that way, it can either stay hinged on or be removed.


----------



## Turt1e

Whenever I switch the fan controller to 5v on the arc midi r2, my psu shuts down. is it my case or psu?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Yes it is removable. They make it that way, it can either stay hinged on or be removed.


Perfect, thank you!


----------



## issak

Hi!

I'm proud owner of define R3, and I've only sorted cables a bit yesterday, even though I've had it for two years. I'll post some pictures once I get a new cooler for second GPU.

I have a question about fans. whats the best setup? Currently I'm waiting for a better fan controller (Scythe Kaze Q), but my fans are:
2x fractal 12cm front (intake)
1x fractal 12cm back (outtake)
1x fractal 14cm top, 1x arctic F14 PWM top (outtake)
1x fractal 14cm side (outtake) - this one is quite crucial to suck the heat that GPUs produce I think.

Zalman CNPS 11x extreme CPU cooler
Arcic Cooling Accelero Xtreme 5870 VGA1
stock 5870 VGA2

Do I have too many fans? Should I move one from top to bottom, for more intake?

Other components:
asus P8P67 Pro
intel Core i7 2600k
4*2GB RAM
2x Radeon 5870

I have idle temps around 30°C CPU, 40°C mobo with room temperature around 27°C


----------



## Magnum26

Can someone explain the differences between the Arc Midi R2 and the Define R4 please?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Can someone explain the differences between the Arc Midi R2 and the Define R4 please?


Pretty much identical internals. The R4 has a door and sound deadening material. Arc Midi R2 has a better roof layout to allow fatter radiators.


----------



## John Deere

Well this is my first post and my first computer build.

I used the arc midi R2 and here are the results. Pictures were taken with an iPhone so it's a bit yucky.





cpu: Haswell i5-4670k
mobo: msi z87-g45 gaming
cpu cooler: corsair h60
ram: corsair vengeance 8gb
psu: xfx pro 750w pro core edition
case: arc midi r2
hdd: seagate barracuda 1tb
graphics card: ??? debating between getting a 760 or a 770.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Deere*
> 
> Well this is my first post and my first computer build.
> 
> I used the arc midi R2 and here are the results. Pictures were taken with an iPhone so it's a bit yucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cpu: Haswell i5-4670k
> mobo: msi z87-g45 gaming
> cpu cooler: corsair h60
> ram: corsair vengeance 8gb
> psu: xfx pro 750w pro core edition
> case: arc midi r2
> hdd: seagate barracuda 1tb
> graphics card: ??? debating between getting a 760 or a 770.


Is that a whilte NZXT LED cable you have in there?


----------



## John Deere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Is that a whilte NZXT LED cable you have in there?


yep


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Deere*
> 
> yep


Looks great

I got a 2 meter red one myself


----------



## onin1911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John Deere*
> 
> Well this is my first post and my first computer build.
> 
> I used the arc midi R2 and here are the results. Pictures were taken with an iPhone so it's a bit yucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cpu: Haswell i5-4670k
> mobo: msi z87-g45 gaming
> cpu cooler: corsair h60
> ram: corsair vengeance 8gb
> psu: xfx pro 750w pro core edition
> case: arc midi r2
> hdd: seagate barracuda 1tb
> graphics card: ??? debating between getting a 760 or a 770.


Very Serious looking.









I would get a 760, then get another. 2 x 760s can be faster than a single Titan.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onin1911*
> 
> Very Serious looking.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would get a 760, then get another. 2 x 760s can be faster than a single Titan.


I would go with the 770. The 760 performs slightly under a 670 but the 770 will outdo the 670 & I know I wouldnt want anything less than a 670. I have two ftw 670s and wouldnt think about going down a notch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Can someone explain the differences between the Arc Midi R2 and the Define R4 please?


The midi r2 has offset holes naturally up top for the rad. mount, but most people use the offset holes that are part of the grill on the r4 as well so the thickness of radiator you can fit is the same, however the midi has a mount for a 360 rad whereas the define is a 240. Also the midi has smoked plexi and no door on the front.


----------



## DionTheGreek

Hello Everyone,

I am very happy to read all the suggestions and posting (it will take me a while to catch up).

For a while now I spend several hours a day researching the net and read countless reviews on various products with ultimate goal to build a system that will be powerful enough to play the latest games (not necessary on ultra settings) and silent enough to not give anyone in the family a headache.

My overall budget need to be ~<=$1600 with a GPU that is ~$400

On this first phase will build that great system and later buy better keyboard, mousepad, speakers, headphones, second monitor) and much later more RAM and even a second GPU (or better one)

Since my mind is set on the Fractal R4 with a window, I am concerned of how it will look (open for any suggestions)

Let me say why I picked these components so far:

I picked the sabertooth because of the updated version, the 5 years warranty and the quality of the board that want me to last for many years. On the other hand the Gigabyte board in newegg showed so many issues by many customers that complained it wasn't a good board with many problems.

On the Ram most of these boards are having a max of 32gb and my thinking is to load now to 16gb and later add just the rest. If I load 8gb now, I'll have to throw them away (or keep them to max up to 24...). Also read somewhere that 16gb is a good choice for the 8350 and good investment for the future.

On the GPU many said that is one of the best to buy. I would like to have some options when I am ready to place the order to pick what might be on sale. Maybe a 7970&#8230;

I plan to use the quieter sp fans by moving the included fractal from rear to front. replace the H100i with the SP and place the old ones one on the rear and one of the bottom.

Btw, since I am plan to use the H100i on the top of the case, does that compromise the noise levels a lot? Or not to worry about it.

After all, with all these fans, I was thinking to control the front fans and the bottom with the case controller. Do you guys suggest a different way to control the fans? (h100i I have a build in software but not sure if I can connect more fans into it).

What you guys think?
Here is my proposed build so far:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

*CPU:* AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
*CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($103.99 @ Newegg)
*Motherboard:* Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg)
*Memory:* Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($135.98 @ NCIX US)
*Storage:* Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Newegg)
*Storage:* Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
*Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($409.99 @ NCIX US)
*Wireless Network Adapter:* Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($16.99 @ Newegg)
*Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.98 @ Amazon)
*Case Fan:* Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
*Power Supply:* SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($166.98 @ SuperBiiz)
*Optical Drive:* Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Amazon)
*Keyboard:* Lite-On SK-1788/BS Wired Standard Keyboard ($12.98 @ Newegg)
*Other:* Rosewill RTK-002 Anti-Static Wrist Strap (4.99)
*Other:* Black E-3lue E-Blue Cobra EMS109BK 1600 DPI LED Light USB Wired Gaming Mouse (7.68)
*Other:* NZXT Technologies 5.25-Inch Hue RGB LED Color Changing Controller (8c-hue0000-00b) (28.19)
*Other:* Belkin Standard Mouse Pad 200 X 250 X 3MM (0.80)
*Total:* $1615.82
_(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
_(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-10 20:46 EDT-0400)_


----------



## Vash101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I am very happy to read all the suggestions and posting (it will take me a while to catch up).
> 
> For a while now I spend several hours a day researching the net and read countless reviews on various products with ultimate goal to build a system that will be powerful enough to play the latest games (not necessary on ultra settings) and silent enough to not give anyone in the family a headache.
> 
> My overall budget need to be ~<=$1600 with a GPU that is ~$400
> 
> On this first phase will build that great system and later buy better keyboard, mousepad, speakers, headphones, second monitor) and much later more RAM and even a second GPU (or better one)
> 
> Since my mind is set on the Fractal R4 with a window, I am concerned of how it will look (open for any suggestions)
> 
> Let me say why I picked these components so far:
> 
> I picked the sabertooth because of the updated version, the 5 years warranty and the quality of the board that want me to last for many years. On the other hand the Gigabyte board in newegg showed so many issues by many customers that complained it wasn't a good board with many problems.
> 
> On the Ram most of these boards are having a max of 32gb and my thinking is to load now to 16gb and later add just the rest. If I load 8gb now, I'll have to throw them away (or keep them to max up to 24...). Also read somewhere that 16gb is a good choice for the 8350 and good investment for the future.
> 
> On the GPU many said that is one of the best to buy. I would like to have some options when I am ready to place the order to pick what might be on sale. Maybe a 7970&#8230;
> 
> I plan to use the quieter sp fans by moving the included fractal from rear to front. replace the H100i with the SP and place the old ones one on the rear and one of the bottom.
> 
> Btw, since I am plan to use the H100i on the top of the case, does that compromise the noise levels a lot? Or not to worry about it.
> 
> After all, with all these fans, I was thinking to control the front fans and the bottom with the case controller. Do you guys suggest a different way to control the fans? (h100i I have a build in software but not sure if I can connect more fans into it).
> 
> What you guys think?
> Here is my proposed build so far:
> PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
> 
> *CPU:* AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
> *CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($103.99 @ Newegg)
> *Motherboard:* Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg)
> *Memory:* Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($135.98 @ NCIX US)
> *Storage:* Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Newegg)
> *Storage:* Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
> *Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($409.99 @ NCIX US)
> *Wireless Network Adapter:* Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($16.99 @ Newegg)
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.98 @ Amazon)
> *Case Fan:* Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
> *Power Supply:* SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($166.98 @ SuperBiiz)
> *Optical Drive:* Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Amazon)
> *Keyboard:* Lite-On SK-1788/BS Wired Standard Keyboard ($12.98 @ Newegg)
> *Other:* Rosewill RTK-002 Anti-Static Wrist Strap (4.99)
> *Other:* Black E-3lue E-Blue Cobra EMS109BK 1600 DPI LED Light USB Wired Gaming Mouse (7.68)
> *Other:* NZXT Technologies 5.25-Inch Hue RGB LED Color Changing Controller (8c-hue0000-00b) (28.19)
> *Other:* Belkin Standard Mouse Pad 200 X 250 X 3MM (0.80)
> *Total:* $1615.82
> _(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
> _(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-10 20:46 EDT-0400)_


Be careful with the H100 and the r4. The top position is motherboard dependent based on the heatsinks and memory.


----------



## JAM3S121

Hey guys, I have a question regarding this case.

I am trying to figure out a case for watercooling my next rig, my plan is two radiators (240mm top/front) But I really need two mechanical drives... but i also wanted to use a tube style reservoir making me wonder how I could fit two mechanical drives still? I know the case supports long graphics cards and most graphics cards are typically not nearly as long as they used to be but still i have a feeling if i used the drive cage and moved it over so i could fit the radiator it would get in the way of the cards? I am planning dual gtx 770's


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question regarding this case.
> 
> I am trying to figure out a case for watercooling my next rig, my plan is two radiators (240mm top/front) But I really need two mechanical drives... but i also wanted to use a tube style reservoir making me wonder how I could fit two mechanical drives still? I know the case supports long graphics cards and most graphics cards are typically not nearly as long as they used to be but still i have a feeling if i used the drive cage and moved it over so i could fit the radiator it would get in the way of the cards? I am planning dual gtx 770's


There is an option you can go with when using the Arc Midi R2 case.
Evercool HD-AR-RBK HDD Cooling Box for Three 3.5 HDD or Four 2.5 HDD. It fits the dual 5.25" bay.
Now the 80mm fan it comes with is terrible, and should be replaced.
I have tried it in my case and it works fine.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073&Tpk=Evercool%20HD-AR-RBK&IsVirtualParent=1

This way you will have all the room needed in the front as you can remove the HDD cages completely.


----------



## andyv

The way that I mounted the rads and tube res in my r4 I still got one of the HDD units to fit. So that was a potential for 2 HDD. only two because screws were in the way for a third. Quick look at the midi r2 and you could do the same. http://www.overclock.net/t/1395276/build-log-water-cooled-define-r4#post_20247083 is my build log. I haven't updated it yet. But I fit a 280 sr1 in the front. I plan on getting some pics when I have the time.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> Hello Everyone,


Welcome,

Sabertooth boards are generally overpriced. Also you don't need an antistatic wrist, just touch the metal part of your case before starting the assembly and make sure that the PC is not on an ESD-sensitive material (e.g carpet).

Looking at your budget and for the latest games you should be looking at an Intel i5 which is an higher performer in-game (not an i7 since it's just i5 with Hyperthreading and games mostly don't benefit from heavy multithreading).
8GB of memory is already way overkill by today standards for gaming, so I would stick with that.

Now regarding the SSD, that Kingston is getting outdated which means it's not the best bang/buck you can get. The Sandisk Ultra Plus is cheaper and if you look at real-world benchmarks it's a slightly better performer so I would take that into consideration vs. the raw numbers.

Lastly I changed the PSU to a Seasonic G-550 wich is a great unit and has the right wattage for the rig.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

*CPU:* Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Microcenter)
*CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($100.25 @ Amazon)
*Motherboard:* Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Newegg)
*Memory:* Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.63 @ Amazon)
*Storage:* Sandisk Ultra Plus 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Microcenter)
*Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($66.61 @ Outlet PC)
*Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($409.99 @ NCIX US)
*Wireless Network Adapter:* Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($16.99 @ Newegg)
*Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.98 @ Amazon)
*Case Fan:* Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
*Power Supply:* SeaSonic G 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon)
*Optical Drive:* Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Newegg)
*Keyboard:* Lite-On SK-1788/BS Wired Standard Keyboard ($12.98 @ Newegg)
*Other:* Black E-3lue E-Blue Cobra EMS109BK 1600 DPI LED Light USB Wired Gaming Mouse (7.68)
*Other:* NZXT Technologies 5.25-Inch Hue RGB LED Color Changing Controller (8c-hue0000-00b) (28.19)
*Other:* Belkin Standard Mouse Pad 200 X 250 X 3MM (0.80)
*Total:* $1385.37
_(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
_(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-11 04:45 EDT-0400)_


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I would go with the 770. The 760 performs slightly under a 670 but the 770 will outdo the 670 & I know I wouldnt want anything less than a 670. I have two ftw 670s and wouldnt think about going down a notch.
> The midi r2 has offset holes naturally up top for the rad. mount, but most people use the offset holes that are part of the grill on the r4 as well so the thickness of radiator you can fit is the same, however the midi has a mount for a 360 rad whereas the define is a 240. Also the midi has smoked plexi and no door on the front.


Thank you!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I am very happy to read all the suggestions and posting (it will take me a while to catch up).
> 
> For a while now I spend several hours a day researching the net and read countless reviews on various products with ultimate goal to build a system that will be powerful enough to play the latest games (not necessary on ultra settings) and silent enough to not give anyone in the family a headache.
> 
> My overall budget need to be ~<=$1600 with a GPU that is ~$400
> 
> On this first phase will build that great system and later buy better keyboard, mousepad, speakers, headphones, second monitor) and much later more RAM and even a second GPU (or better one)
> 
> Since my mind is set on the Fractal R4 with a window, I am concerned of how it will look (open for any suggestions)
> 
> Let me say why I picked these components so far:
> 
> I picked the sabertooth because of the updated version, the 5 years warranty and the quality of the board that want me to last for many years. On the other hand the Gigabyte board in newegg showed so many issues by many customers that complained it wasn't a good board with many problems.
> 
> On the Ram most of these boards are having a max of 32gb and my thinking is to load now to 16gb and later add just the rest. If I load 8gb now, I'll have to throw them away (or keep them to max up to 24...). Also read somewhere that 16gb is a good choice for the 8350 and good investment for the future.
> 
> On the GPU many said that is one of the best to buy. I would like to have some options when I am ready to place the order to pick what might be on sale. Maybe a 7970&#8230;
> 
> I plan to use the quieter sp fans by moving the included fractal from rear to front. replace the H100i with the SP and place the old ones one on the rear and one of the bottom.
> 
> Btw, since I am plan to use the H100i on the top of the case, does that compromise the noise levels a lot? Or not to worry about it.
> 
> After all, with all these fans, I was thinking to control the front fans and the bottom with the case controller. Do you guys suggest a different way to control the fans? (h100i I have a build in software but not sure if I can connect more fans into it).
> 
> What you guys think?
> Here is my proposed build so far:
> PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
> 
> *CPU:* AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter)
> *CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($103.99 @ Newegg)
> *Motherboard:* Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg)
> *Memory:* Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($135.98 @ NCIX US)
> *Storage:* Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Newegg)
> *Storage:* Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
> *Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($409.99 @ NCIX US)
> *Wireless Network Adapter:* Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($16.99 @ Newegg)
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.98 @ Amazon)
> *Case Fan:* Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon)
> *Power Supply:* SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($166.98 @ SuperBiiz)
> *Optical Drive:* Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Amazon)
> *Keyboard:* Lite-On SK-1788/BS Wired Standard Keyboard ($12.98 @ Newegg)
> *Other:* Rosewill RTK-002 Anti-Static Wrist Strap (4.99)
> *Other:* Black E-3lue E-Blue Cobra EMS109BK 1600 DPI LED Light USB Wired Gaming Mouse (7.68)
> *Other:* NZXT Technologies 5.25-Inch Hue RGB LED Color Changing Controller (8c-hue0000-00b) (28.19)
> *Other:* Belkin Standard Mouse Pad 200 X 250 X 3MM (0.80)
> *Total:* $1615.82
> _(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
> _(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-10 20:46 EDT-0400)
> _


850 watts is overkill even with two video cards


----------



## DionTheGreek

Appreciate all the replies,

Adridu59 thank you for all the valuable recommendations but I forgot to mention something important on my post (I tried to include as many details as I could)

I already purchased the FX8350 couple weeks ago and must make my build around it.

If I dont go with the sabertooth what is my best alternative? Also can you suggest a better air cooler because the only reason I want to go with the h100i is for aesthetics and not really anything else. I was looking into the cooler master v8 because is not as massive as any other air cooler and with good reputation. I also like the Phanteks tc14pe with the black heatsink and the white fans.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> If I dont go with the sabertooth what is my best alternative? Also can you suggest a better air cooler because the only reason I want to go with the h100i is for aesthetics and not really anything else. I was looking into the cooler master v8 because is not as massive as any other air cooler and with good reputation. I also like the Phanteks tc14pe with the black heatsink and the white fans.


Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3:
http://www.microcenter.com/product/366425/GA-990FXA-UD3_Socket_AM3_990FX_ATX_AMD_Motherboard

Cooler Master V8 is not a good performer for the money and it's quite loud.

You should look at Thermalright's lineup:
http://www.superbiiz.com/query.php?categry=711&brand=Thermalright
They have great TY fans and come at a good price.


----------



## DionTheGreek

I am reading so many bad reviews on the gigabyte boards that have absolutely zero faith on them and dont want to buy anything from that company. On the contrary many people say bad about the sabertooth but yet nobody can give me a reason why so much dislike beside the price. I am ok to pay for a good motherboard that will give me full features and quality to last for years. If anyone can give me facts why the sabertooth is bad against a different board I'll accept that argument but please dont suggest something because is cheaper!

How about that cooler? Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 140mm http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011

and how about that board? MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2 AM3+ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130649&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Apologize if my frustration comes along with my message, there is nothing personal here and appreciate all the efforts from anyone that want to help me.

At least, I know one think for sure - Fractal Design Define R4 stays!!!! and is by far the best case I've ever seen.


----------



## CaCP3RO

But in last time I sold EVGA ,because she is not very well PSU , I'm come back for few day with new part and changes .


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaCP3RO*
> 
> 
> 
> But in last time I sold EVGA ,because she is not very well PSU , I'm come back for few day with new part and changes .


What PSU is that you have it says EVGA on the side but it dont look like a EVGA PSU


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> I am reading so many bad reviews on the gigabyte boards that have absolutely zero faith on them and dont want to buy anything from that company. On the contrary many people say bad about the sabertooth but yet nobody can give me a reason why so much dislike beside the price. I am ok to pay for a good motherboard that will give me full features and quality to last for years. If anyone can give me facts why the sabertooth is bad against a different board I'll accept that argument but please dont suggest something because is cheaper!
> 
> How about that cooler? Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 140mm http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
> 
> and how about that board? MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2 AM3+ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130649&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
> 
> Apologize if my frustration comes along with my message, there is nothing personal here and appreciate all the efforts from anyone that want to help me.
> 
> At least, I know one think for sure - Fractal Design Define R4 stays!!!! and is by far the best case I've ever seen.


Nothing work with the sabertooth board. All my systems I built has used the sabertooth boards. Stable OC, looks great. I currently use the Z77 Sabertooth.

R4 is a good case, have you looked at the Arc Midi R2. As you might not be able to close the door with that Hue controller.
850w PSU is not needed for a single card like the 770, even a 650w is enough to add a 2nd 770.

The mouse you picked, not good if you want to game with it.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> I am reading so many bad reviews on the gigabyte boards that have absolutely zero faith on them and dont want to buy anything from that company. On the contrary many people say bad about the sabertooth but yet nobody can give me a reason why so much dislike beside the price. I am ok to pay for a good motherboard that will give me full features and quality to last for years. If anyone can give me facts why the sabertooth is bad against a different board I'll accept that argument but please dont suggest something because is cheaper!
> 
> How about that cooler? Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BK 140mm http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709011
> 
> and how about that board? MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2 AM3+ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130649&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
> 
> Apologize if my frustration comes along with my message, there is nothing personal here and appreciate all the efforts from anyone that want to help me.
> 
> At least, I know one think for sure - Fractal Design Define R4 stays!!!! and is by far the best case I've ever seen.


In the end, pick out what you want! I personally think the Sabertooth boards look awesome and function well. I liked Gigabyte until I got my UD5H and has loads of problems. Kept boot looping, froze on desktop. So I got an Extreme4 and I've been happy ever since. But that was for Z77 chipset. I say go for the Sabertooth though!


----------



## DionTheGreek

I found on the following post that HUE controller will not be a problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> It doesn't prevent the door from closing, it will however touch the foam on the door, and leave a little bit of a mark on the foam.


I am 100% sure by now that my motherboard will be the sabertooth since nothing else can convince me otherwise (and believe me I read many reviews)

I'll downgrade my PSU to lower one agree that was an overkill unless on the day of my purchase something else might be on sale (many good choices out there and newegg always put something on sale)

Regarding the mouse, I like the vengeance models but not sure about keyboard. On the first phase I want something simple to get started. I dont want to exceed over 150 for a good mouse and keyboard.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Got my midi r2!


----------



## DionTheGreek

All my comments are placed by each component

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

*CPU:* AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter) [Already purchased]
*CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($103.99 @ Newegg) [Currently Best on reviews / Doesn't add bulkiness that obstruct 50% of the window view that most quality air coolers do like the Phanteks or the Noctua]
*Motherboard:* Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg) [IMHO the best of what I needed to be]
*Memory:* Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($135.98 @ NCIX US) [look good with the MOBO and even though is more than I need is ok for me]
*Storage:* Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Newegg) [good quality / proven to be reliable]
*Storage:* Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($85.99 @ NCIX US) [good quality / proven to be reliable]
*Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($409.99 @ NCIX US) [Subject to change if on the day of purchase something else is on sale]
*Wireless Network Adapter:* Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($12.99 @ Newegg) [solid]
*Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.98 @ Amazon) [BEST OF THE BEST]
*Case Fan:* Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon) [to replace the ones that come with the h100i]
*Power Supply:* Corsair 760W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($169.99 @ Newegg) [The PSU will be useful for the additional HDD that will be added from my old system and later to handle possible extra GPU. Subject to change if on the day of purchase I found a better one for better price]
*Optical Drive:* Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Newegg)








*Other:* Rosewill RTK-002 Anti-Static Wrist Strap (4.99) [Better safe than sorry]
*Other:* Black E-3lue E-Blue Cobra EMS109BK 1600 DPI LED Light USB Wired Gaming Mouse (7.68) [Nothing special - Will upgrade when something good comes on sale later]
*Other:* NZXT Technologies 5.25-Inch Hue RGB LED Color Changing Controller (8c-hue0000-00b) (28.19) [Cant wait to use it]
*Other:* Belkin Standard Mouse Pad 200 X 250 X 3MM (0.80) [Cheap, Cheap, Cheap - Will be replaced when new mouse will be purchased]
*Other:* Keyboard!! - Not sure / use the one of the old system until I upgrade later
*Other:*OS will be Windows 8 Pro or Windows 7 Ultimate. Not sure yet. I am using both and the more I learn how to use the 8 the more I like it - Besides the 8.1 that comes soon and fix many problems
*Total:* $1597.86
_(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
_(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-11 16:41 EDT-0400)_
I am personally very happy with all my selections and when my system gets build, I'll take several pictures and report back here any problems (hopefully none) encountered.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> All my comments are placed by each component
> 
> PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
> 
> *CPU:* AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Microcenter) [Already purchased]
> *CPU Cooler:* Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($103.99 @ Newegg) [Currently Best on reviews / Doesn't add bulkiness that obstruct 50% of the window view that most quality air coolers do like the Phanteks or the Noctua]
> *Motherboard:* Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX/GEN3 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg) [IMHO the best of what I needed to be]
> *Memory:* Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($135.98 @ NCIX US) [look good with the MOBO and even though is more than I need is ok for me]
> *Storage:* Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Newegg) [good quality / proven to be reliable]
> *Storage:* Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($85.99 @ NCIX US) [good quality / proven to be reliable]
> *Video Card:* EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($409.99 @ NCIX US) [Subject to change if on the day of purchase something else is on sale]
> *Wireless Network Adapter:* Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($12.99 @ Newegg) [solid]
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($110.98 @ Amazon) [BEST OF THE BEST]
> *Case Fan:* Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($27.99 @ Amazon) [to replace the ones that come with the h100i]
> *Power Supply:* Corsair 760W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($169.99 @ Newegg) [The PSU will be useful for the additional HDD that will be added from my old system and later to handle possible extra GPU. Subject to change if on the day of purchase I found a better one for better price]
> *Optical Drive:* Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($49.99 @ Newegg)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Other:* Rosewill RTK-002 Anti-Static Wrist Strap (4.99) [Better safe than sorry]
> *Other:* Black E-3lue E-Blue Cobra EMS109BK 1600 DPI LED Light USB Wired Gaming Mouse (7.68) [Nothing special - Will upgrade when something good comes on sale later]
> *Other:* NZXT Technologies 5.25-Inch Hue RGB LED Color Changing Controller (8c-hue0000-00b) (28.19) [Cant wait to use it]
> *Other:* Belkin Standard Mouse Pad 200 X 250 X 3MM (0.80) [Cheap, Cheap, Cheap - Will be replaced when new mouse will be purchased]
> *Other:* Keyboard!! - Not sure / use the one of the old system until I upgrade later
> *Other:*OS will be Windows 8 Pro or Windows 7 Ultimate. Not sure yet. I am using both and the more I learn how to use the 8 the more I like it - Besides the 8.1 that comes soon and fix many problems
> *Total:* $1597.86
> _(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)_
> _(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-11 16:41 EDT-0400)_
> I am personally very happy with all my selections and when my system gets build, I'll take several pictures and report back here any problems (hopefully none) encountered.


The Cooler Master V700 or V850 is a better deal then the Corsair AX760


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Why are you replacing the stock fans of the H100i with the same ones, which is only slower top speed.
The fans speed can be adjusted from the H100i.

Now the issue is the clearance of the R4 and H100i. It will block the 8pin connector and have slight clearance from mobo.
That why I said to get the Arc Midi R2, which as the same window but till not have clearance issues.

If you are gaming, why do you need wireless, which is not good to go with.
Win7 Ult is not needed, unless you need all the extras.


----------



## DionTheGreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Why are you replacing the stock fans of the H100i with the same ones, which is only slower top speed.
> The fans speed can be adjusted from the H100i.
> 
> Now the issue is the clearance of the R4 and H100i. It will block the 8pin connector and have slight clearance from mobo.
> That why I said to get the Arc Midi R2, which as the same window but till not have clearance issues.
> 
> If you are gaming, why do you need wireless, which is not good to go with.
> Win7 Ult is not needed, unless you need all the extras.


The following video 



 shows that it can be done.

I cannot remember where I read it but the recommendation was to replace them with the sp120 for better quality on the noise levels. Regardless, I am planning to use the ones from the h100i at the front of the case and move the one from the front to the bottom of the case.

I am ok to spend $12 dollars to have that option available because it is possible to not have the option to run the cable to my router across the room at this point. Regardless, is not a deal breaker









More likely I'll go with Win8 that use daily for the last couple weeks and start to get used to it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The Cooler Master V700 or V850 is a better deal then the Corsair AX760


Thank you for recommending these PSUs. Will keep in mind on the day of the purchase if any of them are on sale.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DionTheGreek*
> 
> The following video
> 
> 
> 
> shows that it can be done.
> 
> I cannot remember where I read it but the recommendation was to replace them with the sp120 for better quality on the noise levels. Regardless, I am planning to use the ones from the h100i at the front of the case and move the one from the front to the bottom of the case.
> 
> I am ok to spend $12 dollars to have that option available because it is possible to not have the option to run the cable to my router across the room at this point. Regardless, is not a deal breaker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More likely I'll go with Win8 that use daily for the last couple weeks and start to get used to it.
> Thank you for recommending these PSUs. Will keep in mind on the day of the purchase if any of them are on sale.


Both the Corsair AX760/AX860 and the Cooler Master V is the same PSU

But the V is much cheaper so why pay more for the same


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

By settings the fans on the H100i to lower speed, it is basically the same thing as buying those fans.
You will be going with smaller 120mm in the front, when you can 140mm instead.
The stocks fans are very good on the R4 which is quiet.


----------



## DionTheGreek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> By settings the fans on the H100i to lower speed, it is basically the same thing as buying those fans.
> You will be going with smaller 120mm in the front, when you can 140mm instead.
> The stocks fans are very good on the R4 which is quiet.


Do you believe two 120 up front (from the h100i) and the Fractal from front to bottom is not enough airflow? We both like quiet systems. Any suggestion toward that direction is greatly appreciated
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Both the Corsair AX760/AX860 and the Cooler Master V is the same PSU
> 
> But the V is much cheaper so why pay more for the same


Thank you. I will keep in mind on the day of the purchase.


----------



## CaCP3RO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What PSU is that you have it says EVGA on the side but it dont look like a EVGA PSU


I did little cover for red carbon on side psu.

Before

After


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaCP3RO*
> 
> I did little cover for red carbon on side psu.
> 
> Before
> 
> After


Are you aware that what you have is a FSP Aurum group regulated unit which for one means you cant use C6 and C7 sleep states if you upgrade to Haswell


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Are you aware that what you have is a FSP Aurum group regulated unit which for one means you cant use C6 and C7 sleep states if you upgrade to Haswell


Yes it does support it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Yes it does support it.


Its group regulated so it cant

At least not from what understood


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its group regulated so it cant
> 
> At least not from what understood


EVGA already stated it does work last month.
http://www.techpowerup.com/185939/all-evga-power-supplies-support-core-haswell-new-c-states.html


----------



## shilka

sory wrong thread


----------



## Turt1e

When I turn the fan controller on my midi r2 to 7v it turns off my fan leds that use a separate molex connector. is that normal?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> When I turn the fan controller on my midi r2 to 7v it turns off my fan leds that use a separate molex connector. is that normal?


What led fans are you using?


----------



## catbuster

How is the quality of the r4 window panel, does windows feel very plastic (the window)? thinking to buy one for my r4


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What led fans are you using?


Spectre Pro White Led 140mm.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> Spectre Pro White Led 140mm.


Ok how is connected.
the 2pin is not for molex connections. It meant to use directly on the fan or with there own fan controller like the Hydra pro.


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Ok how is connected.
> the 2pin is not for molex connections. It meant to use directly on the fan or with there own fan controller like the Hydra pro.


3 Pin to Fan controller 3 pin connector
2 pin led to 2 pin to 2 pin molex


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> 3 Pin to Fan controller 3 pin connector
> 2 pin led to 2 pin to 2 pin molex


That could the issue. Why would you need to power the LED via molex. It wasnt designed to be that way. The fan controller would dim the LED based on the voltage.


----------



## Turt1e

What do I connect the led to then? The fan came with the molex to 2 pin adapter


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> What do I connect the led to then? The fan came with the molex to 2 pin adapter


That molex is for the fan, not LED. That is a good way to damage the fan. The LED gets power from the 3pin already.
The 2 pin with the loop is what is suppose to be used, which already came with the fan. The other cable is extension to be used to there fan controller.
You leave it plugged into the fan.


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That molex is for the fan, not LED. That is a good way to damage the fan. The LED gets power from the 3pin already.
> The 2 pin with the loop is what is suppose to be used, which already came with the fan. The other cable is extension to be used to there fan controller.
> You leave it plugged into the fan.


The 3 pin doesn't give power to the led for me


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> The 3 pin doesn't give power to the led for me


It does give power, cause you removed the 2pin adapter that was on the fan, small black wire. Not the 2pin-molex one.


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> It does give power, cause you removed the 2pin adapter that was on the fan, small black wire. Not the 2pin-molex one.


I'm confused now, can you tell me what you have plugged into what?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I'm confused now, can you tell me what you have plugged into what?


Look at image. The green box, that is the 2pin led adapter. That plugs into the 2pin on the fan.


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Look at image. The green box, that is the 2pin led adapter. That plugs into the 2pin on the fan.


Oh, I see now. Thanks!


----------



## Anoxy

Anyone here watercooling SLI 780s in an Arc Midi R2?

I could use some suggestions or example builds so I know where to start. Never watercooled before and I'd like to see how much it would cost me.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Anyone here watercooling SLI 780s in an Arc Midi R2?
> 
> I could use some suggestions or example builds so I know where to start. Never watercooled before and I'd like to see how much it would cost me.


You will need 2x 240 rads. Top and front.
GPU blocks, CPU Blocks, tubing and fits.

$120-150 each GPU x2
$50-100 each 240 rad x2
$50-80 cpu block

4 or 8 fans, Tubing, fittings maybe a reservoir.


----------



## Anoxy

Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll need to save some money for a little while before I can give liquid cooling a shot.

On another note, is anyone using a 3rd party fan controller in their Arc Midi? My mobo sucks so I'm looking at a controller to add more fans.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll need to save some money for a little while before I can give liquid cooling a shot.
> 
> On another note, is anyone using a 3rd party fan controller in their Arc Midi? My mobo sucks so I'm looking at a controller to add more fans.


Case has for 3 fans.
A few to choose from
Bitfenix Hydra Pro (5 fans)
Bitfenix Recom (5 fans)
NZTX Sentry Mesh (5 fans)
NZXT Sentry Mix 2 (6 fans)

These are the one I recommend.
As for watercooling, you can start with the Swiftech H220. Which can be expanded to add gpu, extra rads.


----------



## andyv

Thought I would post this up here. This Is my watercooled Define R4.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Case has for 3 fans.
> A few to choose from
> Bitfenix Hydra Pro (5 fans)
> Bitfenix Recom (5 fans)
> NZTX Sentry Mesh (5 fans)
> NZXT Sentry Mix 2 (6 fans)
> 
> These are the one I recommend.
> As for watercooling, you can start with the Swiftech H220. Which can be expanded to add gpu, extra rads.


Thanks. I was eyeing that Swiftech H220 for a while but it's sold out everywhere. The built in fan controller was giving me problems when I originally tried it, but maybe I'll give it another shot.

If I ever find an H220 in stock, do you know if it will fit in the front of the Arc Midi R2?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks. I was eyeing that Swiftech H220 for a while but it's sold out everywhere. The built in fan controller was giving me problems when I originally tried it, but maybe I'll give it another shot.
> 
> If I ever find an H220 in stock, do you know if it will fit in the front of the Arc Midi R2?


I think it will fit, only problem the res will be on the bottom. It will fit on the top.
As for the Midi R2 fan controller, I used mine to control LED lighting. 12v on, 7v very dim (useless) 5v off.
For the fans, there all PWM to use H220 PWM splitter module.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Aztec*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> I dont think they will fit, but you can adapt it, check post #5435 and post #5370. Honestly i would use the included fans on front (included front and the back move to front) and just get a TY147 for the back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i already have 2 ty 147 and i wanna use them, the standard fans have really bad cfm compared to the ty147, there is no way i can put them in the front
> 
> nvm i guess zip ties are the way to go
Click to expand...

If you have access to a good power miterbox or table saw you can trim them with a good fine tooth carbide blade. I know. I painted the TY-140 housings black.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1401382/new-case-worse-temps-picture/20_20#post_20208590


----------



## 3klipze

Hey guys, so i need a bit of help.

Recently picked up a Fractal R4. Now, i am stumbled on how to keep my parts cool without sacrificing quietness.

1. What Fan are recommended? How many? Should avoid top fans? [ I currently have a Hyper Evo 212 , planning to get another blade master to get a push/pull configuration]

2. I got the windowed version, planning to add some LED and I was wondering what LED is recommended. I was looking at the white LED NZXT ones.

Currently thinking of doing a black and white theme with LED lighting.

Pictures of your own R4 will help!.

Goal: Black and white theme with LED. Quiet! + lots of airflow to keep my parts cool.

Reason: looking to SLI GTX760 later in the year

I took out the two HDD cages and put my HD in the 5.25" bay with some rubber feet to keep vibration down.

Thanks,


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3klipze*
> 
> Hey guys, so i need a bit of help.
> 
> Recently picked up a Fractal R4. Now, i am stumbled on how to keep my parts cool without sacrificing quietness.
> 
> 1. What Fan are recommended? How many? Should avoid top fans? [ I currently have a Hyper Evo 212 , planning to get another blade master to get a push/pull configuration]
> 
> 2. I got the windowed version, planning to add some LED and I was wondering what LED is recommended. I was looking at the white LED NZXT ones.
> 
> Currently thinking of doing a black and white theme with LED lighting.
> 
> Pictures of your own R4 will help!.
> 
> Goal: Black and white theme with LED. Quiet! + lots of airflow to keep my parts cool.
> 
> Reason: looking to SLI GTX760 later in the year
> 
> I took out the two HDD cages and put my HD in the 5.25" bay with some rubber feet to keep vibration down.
> 
> Thanks,


The R4 does get a little warmer due to dampening material, with side window it defeats the purpose to even have it.
To have quiet, fans can be run at lower speed. Adjust with fan controller when you need more performance.
The front of the R4 is quite restrictive, which will increase noise.
What you need to do is have 2x 140mm front intake, 1x 140mm bottom intake, 2x 140mm top exhaust and 1x 140mm rear exhaust.

Quiet + lots of airflow is not what you use together. Something has to give, which is more towards quiet.
Idle system you can have quiet, once you start with load. performance is needed, and ambient outside temps gets hotter, so will the inside be. So more performance is needed.


----------



## 3klipze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The R4 does get a little warmer due to dampening material, with side window it defeats the purpose to even have it.
> To have quiet, fans can be run at lower speed. Adjust with fan controller when you need more performance.
> The front of the R4 is quite restrictive, which will increase noise.
> What you need to do is have 2x 140mm front intake, 1x 140mm bottom intake, 2x 140mm top exhaust and 1x 140mm rear exhaust.
> 
> Quiet + lots of airflow is not what you use together. Something has to give, which is more towards quiet.
> Idle system you can have quiet, once you start with load. performance is needed, and ambient outside temps gets hotter, so will the inside be. So more performance is needed.


I should have mentioned this, but I don't mind the computer being noisier under load.

currently my system is dead silent on idle and a bit fan noise when running into games.

I was thinking of getting more fractal fans to keep the CFM consistent. Have 2 front intakes, 1 bottom intake, 1 rear exhaust. [ Positive air pressure? ]

What do you guys think?


----------



## borderkill666

Hi guys, I need some help.

I like to get the Define R4 but I hate the front of the case, so ist is possible to put the front of the arc midi r2 on the define r4?

After some research I found these pictures:
http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/4/8/4844_31_fractal_design_define_r4_black_pearl_mid_tower_chassis_review_full.jpg
http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/5/4/5412_31_fractal_design_arc_midi_r2_mid_tower_chassis_review_full.jpg

The mounting mechanism seems to be the same because both cases are pretty similar.
But the I/O panel of the R4 may not fit in the front of the arc, correct me if I'm wrong.

I really hope for someone can help me.

Thanks


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borderkill666*
> 
> Hi guys, I need some help.
> 
> I like to get the Define R4 but I hate the front of the case, so ist is possible to put the front of the arc midi r2 on the define r4?
> 
> After some research I found these pictures:
> http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/4/8/4844_31_fractal_design_define_r4_black_pearl_mid_tower_chassis_review_full.jpg
> http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/5/4/5412_31_fractal_design_arc_midi_r2_mid_tower_chassis_review_full.jpg
> 
> The mounting mechanism seems to be the same because both cases are pretty similar.
> But the I/O panel of the R4 may not fit in the front of the arc, correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> I really hope for someone can help me.
> 
> Thanks


The front is different. Due to the mounting of the front panel.
Just get the Arc Midi R2.


----------



## Turt1e

When I turn the integrated fan controller to 5v my PSU shuts off and I got a new one which just fried my motherboard when I use the fan controller. I'm getting another new PSU, the AX760 so should I just ditch the fan controller?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> When I turn the integrated fan controller to 5v my PSU shuts off and I got a new one which just fried my motherboard when I use the fan controller. I'm getting another new PSU, the AX760 so should I just ditch the fan controller?


Get the Cooler Master V700

Same PSU as the AX760 but much cheaper


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> When I turn the integrated fan controller to 5v my PSU shuts off and I got a new one which just fried my motherboard when I use the fan controller. I'm getting another new PSU, the AX760 so should I just ditch the fan controller?


760w is not need even for dual 660.

the fan controller has nothing to do with your mobo. So something else caused the problem. What ended up happen is you might have damaged the controller or PSU on how it was setup before.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Get the Cooler Master V700
> 
> Same PSU as the AX760 but much cheaper


Barely cheaper than the AX760 and you get ugly unsleeved cables though


----------



## Maximus Karl

hi guys i'm new to overclock.net and a newbie in PC.. i'm just gonna ask if this case will fit a ASUS Crosshair IV formula?


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Karl*
> 
> hi guys i'm new to overclock.net and a newbie in PC.. i'm just gonna ask if this case will fit a ASUS Crosshair IV formula?


What do you mean by this case? And welcome to ocn


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Karl*
> 
> hi guys i'm new to overclock.net and a newbie in PC.. i'm just gonna ask if this case will fit a ASUS Crosshair IV formula?


Welcome.
Which case?


----------



## Maximus Karl

thanks for the reply .. sorry i mean the define mini


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Karl*
> 
> thanks for the reply .. sorry i mean the define mini


No that is a MATX case.
You need the Arc Midi R2.
Are you building a new system?


----------



## Maximus Karl

not really i wanted to transfer my system to a smaller case because i'm getting tired of those big clunky and heavy cases..


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Karl*
> 
> not really i wanted to transfer my system to a smaller case because i'm getting tired of those big clunky and heavy cases..


Arc midi R2 is not a big case.
What was the one you have? Please fill in your system in your profile so we know what you have.


----------



## Maximus Karl

A cooler master 690 II







btw thanks for a fast reply sir


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus Karl*
> 
> A cooler master 690 II
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw thanks for a fast reply sir


That is a standard size case.
Only way to go smaller is to get a new mobo that is MATX in size. Which is not worth it.


----------



## neo0031

Been really comments regarding the R4 windowed versions and windowed side panels in general, and I would really like an answer from someone who has tried both the windowed and non-windowed side panels on the Define R4. (Perhaps by switch motherboard-side panel to front side? lol)

How big is the difference in terms of noise? Any level of description would be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Been really comments regarding the R4 windowed versions and windowed side panels in general, and I would really like an answer from someone who has tried both the windowed and non-windowed side panels on the Define R4. (Perhaps by switch motherboard-side panel to front side? lol)
> 
> How big is the difference in terms of noise? Any level of description would be appreciated, thanks.


Noise levels is very little. The difference between is not the noticeable.
I had the R4 before I got the Arc Midi R2, as I was watercooling.
But for sound, the dampening did really nothing to make a difference, as I used fan controller to adjust fan speed or mobo headers.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Hey guys, I just finished building my first wc loop in my Arc Midi r2 and figured I'd share what I've done so far. I'm leak testing and flushing the system tonight, and I'll be filling it with mint green pastel tomorrow.







My girlfriend's cat helped check for leaks (and acted as an impromptu sponge in the case of a spill)



The full build log can be seen in my sig. I'll update again once I've finished building and filled with pastel.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I just finished building my first wc loop in my Arc Midi r2 and figured I'd share what I've done so far. I'm leak testing and flushing the system tonight, and I'll be filling it with mint green pastel tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My girlfriend's cat helped check for leaks (and acted as an impromptu sponge in the case of a spill)
> 
> 
> 
> The full build log can be seen in my sig. I'll update again once I've finished building and filled with pastel.


Very clean.
Any LED lighting? You can use the stock fan controller to control and LED strips.
What fans are used?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Very clean.
> Any LED lighting? You can use the stock fan controller to control and LED strips.
> What fans are used?


Appreciate it! I had an NZXT HUE lighting kit, but I'm ditching it in favor of a 60cm Phobya LED strip. I never used the customizable lighting on the HUE anyway. I've also got two white LEDs installed in the GPU block, so those should light the case up nicely along with the green LEDs on the motherboard. I'll be hooking the LEDs up to a Bitspower X-Station on the back of the motherboard tray. Good to know about the fan controller though, I never thought about using it for LEDs.

The 140mm fans are Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-3s. Really quiet under lower speeds, great static pressure, and they move a ton of air. The 1the20mm fans above the top rad are Noiseblocker NB-Eloops. I love the way they look, but since they're white they don't really fit the theme. I've thought about painting the blades black or deep gray and mounting them below the rad instead of above it. If I do that I'll also mount one to the left of the pump and res, since there's not enough room for a 140mm down there.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Nice. The LED stripes I used in the Bitfenix Alchemy 30cm white. I used 2 of them, with a Molex to (3pin Female, same style as fans) 12v is bright, 7v very dim (limited lighting), 5v off.
One on the bottom if front of the PSU and top behind the rad facing down. Gives a nice look.
The smoke window really adds a nice defuse to the lights.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Never thought my PC would be rendered useless, it's been a mining rig ever since I built it







(I know the gpu's doesn't match but, they're just mining)


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice. The LED stripes I used in the Bitfenix Alchemy 30cm white. I used 2 of them, with a Molex to (3pin Female, same style as fans) 12v is bright, 7v very dim (limited lighting), 5v off.
> One on the bottom if front of the PSU and top behind the rad facing down. Gives a nice look.
> The smoke window really adds a nice defuse to the lights.


Those Bitfenix strips are nice, I had a 30cm strip in my Phantom before getting the HUE. If I knew where it was I'd just use that instead of the Phobya strip lol. That's really cool that you can control the brightness like that; I'm going to have to do that now since I won't be using the fan controller for anything else. Maybe I can find another use for the X-station. Do you know if two pin LED connectors would work as well? Like the ones used on front panel connectors and individual LEDs?

Agreed about the smoked side panel, it makes internal lighting so much better. The green LEDs on the Sniper 5 are overpowering when viewed through a clear panel, but they look awesome in the Midi.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Those Bitfenix strips are nice, I had a 30cm strip in my Phantom before getting the HUE. If I knew where it was I'd just use that instead of the Phobya strip lol. That's really cool that you can control the brightness like that; I'm going to have to do that now since I won't be using the fan controller for anything else. Maybe I can find another use for the X-station. Do you know if two pin LED connectors would work as well? Like the ones used on front panel connectors and individual LEDs?
> 
> Agreed about the smoked side panel, it makes internal lighting so much better. The green LEDs on the Sniper 5 are overpowering when viewed through a clear panel, but they look awesome in the Midi.


2pin is not designed the same way as molex which is what Alchemy is using. So not sure.
The fan controller can handle 1A each line or 5w each.
it nice to switch, as the window faces my bed, I need my sleep.


----------



## gtsteviiee

oh delete


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 2pin is not designed the same way as molex which is what Alchemy is using. So not sure.
> The fan controller can handle 1A each line or 5w each.
> it nice to switch, as the window faces my bed, I need my sleep.


Yeah I doubted it would work with three pin connectors, but wasn't positive about it. I'll just stick with the X-Station for the individual LEDs then and use the strip on the fan controller. Thanks for your bud.


----------



## Magnum26

Can someone tell me if a Corsair H1000W PSU would fit in the bottom and still have enough room to fit a 140mm fan in the bottom intake please?


----------



## doyll

4x pwm fans controlled by CPU fan header PWM signal
*2x front intake
*1x bottom intake
*1x back exhaust fan
Raise case so you have 40-50mm bottom clearance so bottom fans have good airflow.
Open back top vent. Don't need a fan in it.
Remove all unused PCI slot covers.
Mate's system we built first of year with TY-147 fans front and bottom intakes. Can't hear it except at full load.. and even than it's quiet. HDD & SSD are now on bottom and in optical bay cage and HDD cage is removed.


Caster base like this works nicely for bottom clearance.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Been really comments regarding the R4 windowed versions and windowed side panels in general, and I would really like an answer from someone who has tried both the windowed and non-windowed side panels on the Define R4. (Perhaps by switch motherboard-side panel to front side? lol)
> 
> How big is the difference in terms of noise? Any level of description would be appreciated, thanks.


well ordered windowed panel few days ago, will share my opinion after i get it


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> well ordered windowed panel few days ago, will share my opinion after i get it


Thank you so much. Would love to hear back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Noise levels is very little. The difference between is not the noticeable.
> I had the R4 before I got the Arc Midi R2, as I was watercooling.
> But for sound, the dampening did really nothing to make a difference, as I used fan controller to adjust fan speed or mobo headers.


Thanks man!


----------



## Nowyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Can someone tell me if a Corsair H1000W PSU would fit in the bottom and still have enough room to fit a 140mm fan in the bottom intake please?


Says PSU needs to be at most 170mm long to use bottom fan.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nowyn*
> 
> Says PSU needs to be at most 170mm long to use bottom fan.


Ha ok cool thanks then my HX1000 is apparently 200mm long. Oh well.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magnum26*
> 
> Ha ok cool thanks then my HX1000 is apparently 200mm long. Oh well.


I belive the SilverStone Strider Gold is less then 170mm

Cant recall so i might be wrong


----------



## gdubc

I know its a crappy cell pick but this is the 160mm ax860i in a define r4 with a 140mm fan in bottom.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know its a crappy cell pick but this is the 160mm ax860i in a define r4 with a 140mm fan in bottom.


Thanks for this, mine won't fit with a fan then for sure!


----------



## BKinn

I redid my color scheme to match my new 770. All of the metal was powder coated and the fans painted. I think I still need to do another coat on all the fans and change the LED color but what do you guys think??


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> I redid my color scheme to match my new 770. All of the metal was powder coated and the fans painted. I think I still need to do another coat on all the fans and change the LED color but what do you guys think??


Looking awesome! I love the colors.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> I redid my color scheme to match my new 770. All of the metal was powder coated and the fans painted. I think I still need to do another coat on all the fans and change the LED color but what do you guys think??






Looks very nice







Those cables are screaming to be sleeved in black and gold.


----------



## neo0031

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> I redid my color scheme to match my new 770. All of the metal was powder coated and the fans painted. I think I still need to do another coat on all the fans and change the LED color but what do you guys think??






That is nothing short of glorious.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

just a pic, when it finished ... more


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> 
> 
> just a pic, when it finished ... more


As always...LOVE the colors...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> 
> 
> just a pic, when it finished ... more


Nice! If you're finished with the paint you used, send it my way!









I already have my green sleeved cables, now I just need to order some corsair fans and paint those rings.


----------



## Anoxy

Is the built in fan controller on the Arc Midi R2 capable of fully powering three 12V case fans?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is the built in fan controller on the Arc Midi R2 capable of fully powering three 12V case fans?


Case comes with 3 fans, controller has connections for 3 fans and there is 3 settings. 5v, 7v 12v


----------



## Anoxy

Nevermind. I just put my old bitfenix recon in there and covered up the ugly LED panel with the black plastic cover piece.

Sadly though, I managed to break the cable on one of my Fractal case fans....so it looks like I'll be needing to order another one :'(


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> 
> 
> just a pic, when it finished ... more


what color/brand spray paint? looks great.


----------



## powruser

My new Arc Midi R2 build. New PSU and red LED strip is on the way still. A bit disappointed that the case came with a scratch right out of the box on the rear left corner of the top panel. Do you think Fractal would send me a new top panel? I don't need a whole new case, just the top panel.


----------



## Magnum26

Can someone tell me if the top two 140mm vents on the top of an R4 are dust filtered? I've got a H220 coming in the post and it's default intake and I hate dust.


----------



## Nowyn

nevermind


----------



## powruser

The top fans have dust filters. The filters are right under the mesh piece on the top which is removeable.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *powruser*
> 
> The top fans have dust filters. The filters are right under the mesh piece on the top which is removeable.


Actually I have both the r4 and midi r2, and the midi r2 has the filters but the r4 doesnt. The r4 has filters in front and bottom but not top.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Actually I have both the r4 and midi r2, and the midi r2 has the filters but the r4 doesnt. The r4 has filters in front and bottom but not top.


Since you own both, did you find the R4 more quiet since its more closed and restricted? or you dont think the frontal door of the R4 or the open top of ARC Midi makes much of a difference in terms of noise?


----------



## gdubc

The r4 is more quiet than the midi r2 but not by much. I got the r4 first but then wanted better water cooling options so i got the midi r2. The top of the midi is the same as the define except for the filters added to the midi as well as being able to mount a triple rad uptop. Well, that and the midi r2 has the top mount offset toward the windowed panel instead of centered like in the define.


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Actually I have both the r4 and midi r2, and the midi r2 has the filters but the r4 doesnt. The r4 has filters in front and bottom but not top.


Thanks! I've ordered some dust filters for the top of my R4


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Is the built in fan controller on the Arc Midi R2 capable of fully powering three 12V case fans?


The case comes with three 140mm fans, and the controller has three headers. So if you bought a 220mm or a 240mm rad to put at the top of the case (a H100i or whatever), the case comes with enough fans to fill the available fan spots. Two up front, and the one in the rear. And all three can hook up the controller just fine (I run all three off of it no problem). I can't even hear my machine when the fans are on 5v they're so quite, and that's with my machine sitting right behind my monitor. The only downside is their fans don't push much air, even when on full 12v they don't seem to move much air. Tho I guess they beat most of the stock fans most cases come with that are noisy as anything.


----------



## Anoxy

I know, I own the case









I just don't use the fan controller and wanted to know if it's capable of running three fans at full speed.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I know, I own the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't use the fan controller and wanted to know if it's capable of running three fans at full speed.


It seems to run all three of the case fans that come with the unit just fine. I mean I got all of them hooked up to it, and they seem to rip just fine when on 12v. I prefer the manual controller over the motherboards built in controller, this way the machine stays quite when I want it to regardless of temps (which are fine anyways). Or if I am running a heavy game and I know the machine is getting hot, I can just crank them up to 12v with a quick slide of the switch.


----------



## JAM3S121

can anyone take a picture of the midi r2 with the window facing them directly? In some pics it looks to small (for me) and others it doesn't.. I'm onlying finding pics of the r4


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> can anyone take a picture of the midi r2 with the window facing them directly? In some pics it looks to small (for me) and others it doesn't.. I'm onlying finding pics of the r4


The window of the R4 is the same as the R2


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> can anyone take a picture of the midi r2 with the window facing them directly? In some pics it looks to small (for me) and others it doesn't.. I'm onlying finding pics of the r4






.


----------



## Anoxy

I wish more cases implemented the smoke glass on their windows. Looks so much more classy than clear.


----------



## ZeVo

I wish Walmart didn't mess up my order when I purchased a smoked window and got clear instead...


----------



## Anoxy

Ha, that sucks. I didn't even know they made a clear window for the Arc Midi. Also, Walmart? They actually sell this kinda stuff there?


----------



## jhaze84

Speaking of the built-in fan controller...

Does anyone know if the Arc Midi R2 fan controller would be able to power 5 fans hooked into the 3 ports with Y-cables? I am envisioning four 120mm radiator fans and one 140mm exhaust fan for my WC setup, and would like to control them all with the built-in controller.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> Speaking of the built-in fan controller...
> 
> Does anyone know if the Arc Midi R2 fan controller would be able to power 5 fans hooked into the 3 ports with Y-cables? I am envisioning four 120mm radiator fans and one 140mm exhaust fan for my WC setup, and would like to control them all with the built-in controller.


Each port can handle 1A at 12v each.


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Each port can handle 1A at 12v each.


Thanks. That is great news. GT AP-15's are only 0.083 A each, and I can't find spec on the Fractal Silent 140mm but it can't be much higher.


----------



## SclerosiS

jhaze,

Look at the back of the fan where the sticker with the logo is.Think there you can find specs as watts,ampers and volts.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Look at the back of the fan where the sticker with the logo is.Think there you can find specs as watts,ampers and volts.


You're talking about a Fractal fan here mate...


----------



## givmedew

Can I join?


----------



## catbuster

Has any1 instaled 180mm psu and 140 fan on the bottom of R4? i measured the case and i feel i could squeeze that in


----------



## SclerosiS

Ops,

Sorry for misleading you.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ha, that sucks. I didn't even know they made a clear window for the Arc Midi. Also, Walmart? They actually sell this kinda stuff there?


I was just as surprised as you were lol. I kept on thinking, Newegg doesn't have it, but Walmart does...? It baffles me to this day. And they do make one for the Midi! The box I got it in says R4/Arc Midi window side panel. I think they finally made one that had 'Midi' on the box because lot of people (including myself) didn't know the R4 window could fit on the Midi (which it does







)


----------



## mrrockwell

Here's my redefine all done.


More on that in HERE


----------



## Hawxie

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*





Is it possible, to mount the H100i like that, with the exception of having the pump facing "correctly"?, I mean with the tubes coming out of the side, instead of the bottom?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know its a crappy cell pick but this is the 160mm ax860i in a define r4 with a 140mm fan in bottom.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Has any1 instaled 180mm psu and 140 fan on the bottom of R4? i measured the case and i feel i could squeeze that in


Hope this helps...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I am looking at changing some of the screws that come with the R4 to stainless steel ones.

Motherboard screws are M3 x 6mm
PSU screws are M3.5 x 6mm
SSD screws are M3 x 4mm

But I don't know what size the thumb screws are.

Anybody know?

Thanks.


----------



## octave

Hey guys, first post for me. But, I have been lurking over the past couple of weeks researching for my first build. One of the reasons I wanted to post this picture was to give a clear picture of a Corsair h100i installed in the front of the Fractal Design R4. There seems to be some confusion on whether you can do this or not. Well, as you can see it fits perfectly even with the hard drive tray in the alternate position. Not saying that is wasn't kind of a pain to get in there.







Here I have it set up with two Noctua NF-F-12 PWM fans in a pull configuration. Also, there is no clearance issues with the Corsair Vengeance Ram. The only thing I am disappointed about is the Corsair link software doesn't show the core temps of any Haswell processors yet.







Kind of lame, but other than that it works fine.


----------



## octave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Is it possible, to mount the H100i like that, with the exception of having the pump facing "correctly"?, I mean with the tubes coming out of the side, instead of the bottom?


^
Yep!


----------



## Airrick10

Here's an Update on my current rig. The vertical PCI slot is a life saver







since my behemoth cooler blocks the top pci-e slot and using the bottom one for my sound card would block the airflow to my 2nd gpu!!!


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *octave*
> 
> ^
> Yep!


Awesome







.

By the way, would it be a bad idea, to use the H100i with 2x F12's as intake, and then a GTX 760 SC ( Blower fan ) as a means of exhausting the air?, the CPU won't be running at more than 2-40% load, and on very rare occasions 70%.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Here's an Update on my current rig. The vertical PCI slot is a life saver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> since my behemoth cooler blocks the top pci-e slot and using the bottom one for my sound card would block the airflow to my 2nd gpu!!!


Beautiful. I remember I asked you a while ago how you did the front panel mod. I think you took some old hard comic book poster and just painted it black? Either way, I could never actually do the mod. The cardboard I was using was too weak and just looked nasty, so I just forgot about it.









I might actually give it another go just because of how jelly I am of your rig.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible, to mount the H100i like that, with the exception of having the pump facing "correctly"?, I mean with the tubes coming out of the side, instead of the bottom?
Click to expand...

No unfortunately there is no way to mount it with tubes facing the correct direction unless you mount it on the top.

The exception would be if you used shrouds. 

That would most likely allow you to get enough length to turn the block the correct direction but I can not promise you that.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Beautiful. I remember I asked you a while ago how you did the front panel mod. I think you took some old hard comic book poster and just painted it black? Either way, I could never actually do the mod. The cardboard I was using was too weak and just looked nasty, so I just forgot about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might actually give it another go just because of how jelly I am of your rig.


Thanks ZeVo!!! Yeah it was some cardboard from a box...it was thin and flimsy too but I used some carbon fiber vinyl to make it a bit sturdier and give it the black color. It took several tries to get it right but well worth it in the end! Good luck and don't get discouraged!









The other thing to consider is giving up the fan filter and I'm in the process of using these to help with the dust.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SilverStone-FF143B-140mm-Ultra-Fine-Fan-Filter-w-Magnet-Black-/200899952714?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item2ec692004a

I already have some on the top of the case so I tried putting one in the front then the fan on top of it and the clips held it snugly and that's one way of doing it but I think I'll place the filter on the back of the front fans so the filter doesn't diminish the look of the cut out holes of the front fans.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Here's an Update on my current rig. The vertical PCI slot is a life saver
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> since my behemoth cooler blocks the top pci-e slot and using the bottom one for my sound card would block the airflow to my 2nd gpu!!!


that's pretty awesome


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> that's pretty awesome


Thanks man!!! You'rs looks pretty sweet too!!!







I had actually thought about doing the same green color scheme as yours but decided not too in the end.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Thanks man!!! You'rs looks pretty sweet too!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had actually thought about doing the same green color scheme as yours but decided not too in the end.


thanks








. I can't wait to transfer my components over to the Arc Mini R2


----------



## ds84

Wanna ask, for the arc midi r2, the included fan controller is able to control up to 3 fans. Does it mean that it has 3 seperate 3-pins cables?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Wanna ask, for the arc midi r2, the included fan controller is able to control up to 3 fans. Does it mean that it has 3 seperate 3-pins cables?


Correct.


----------



## octave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> No unfortunately there is no way to mount it with tubes facing the correct direction unless you mount it on the top.
> 
> The exception would be if you used shrouds.
> 
> That would most likely allow you to get enough length to turn the block the correct direction but I can not promise you that.


That is an incorrect statement. It fits just fine, the hoses are just the right lenght even clearing the RAM.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Wanna ask, for the arc midi r2, the included fan controller is able to control up to 3 fans. Does it mean that it has 3 seperate 3-pins cables?


Yes it does, it has 1 four pin molex for power input and 3 three pin fan headers for output.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Hope this helps...


yeah thx







now i need new ideas for bottom of the case


----------



## Anoxy

Will a NF-A15 PWM fit in the front of my Arc Midi R2?


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Will a NF-A15 PWM fit in the front of my Arc Midi R2?


150mm width, so i doubt it?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Will a NF-A15 PWM fit in the front of my Arc Midi R2?


Why not get an NF-A14 PWM instead? I don't see why you would want a larger frame in front of your case.



EDIT: looks like the A14 PWM just came out individually so it's a bit pricier (in the US at least).


----------



## Anoxy

The one I linked says 140mm in the title though...?

and the NF-A14 PWM isn't prime eligible on Amazon.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The one I linked says 140mm in the title though...?


has 140 120mm mounting holes, but the frame extends beyond that... its a 150mm fan... read the detailed description

idk if it will fit or not, good question?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608036


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> and the NF-A14 PWM isn't prime eligible on Amazon.


If you're willing to take an A15 measure the space in your case: if you have 140x150 available for both slots without obstacles then it will fit fine. Else you'll have to mod it but you will have to give up the 6-Years warranty.


----------



## Anoxy

Haha, I was just asking to hopefully get a quick answer from somebody who uses that fan. I'll just get another NF-A14 FLX.


----------



## failwheeldrive

My Arc Midi is almost finished


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> My Arc Midi is almost finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## smoke2

Hi,
I'm wondering to buy Fractal Desing R4 or Arc Midi.

I know that R4 is probably better, but on Arc Midi I have sell out price.

R4 costs me 85,80€ and Arc Midi 50,50€.

I have MSI GTX 670 PE OC brand new, which is louder graphic card.
My PC is situated in living room.

My PC was relatively louder with old case.
Which one would you prefer for these price?
Here is it, in my old Thermaltake Swing. I think GTX 670 need better case


----------



## gdubc

The old midi? Or the midir2?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The old midi? Or the midir2?


Yea if it's the first Midi there are a few things that will be worse in chassis design and noticeably the stock fans (on the newer iterations they're not high-end fans but they're still better). Also the dust filter on the first Midi is made out of foam so not great for airflow. Those are things to consider.

Now the R4 is more oriented towards silence than airflow when compared to the Midi R2, the difference is not dramatic but if you're sensitive to noise I'd go with the R4.


----------



## smoke2

It's older, first Arc Midi.
I'm little afraid of very perforated top, because little afraid when accidentally pour out water on it...








I'm owning MSI GTX 670 PE OC, i5-3330.
I'm not to plan overclocking, maybe CPU a little bit.
I have older case above, with only onebfan hole, but I think both of Fractals should be quieter?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> It's older, first Arc Midi.
> I'm little afraid of very perforated top, because little afraid when accidentally pour out water on it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm owning MSI GTX 670 PE OC, i5-3330.
> I'm not to plan overclocking, maybe CPU a little bit.
> I have older case above, with only onebfan hole, but I think both of Fractals should be quieter?


You want to look at the newer Arc Midi R2 instead.


----------



## smoke2

I was looking for rev.1 only due to price...
So, instead of price, I shouldn't buy rev.1 and look for the newer ones?


----------



## Anoxy

The R2 is cheaper than the original Arc Midi on Amazon...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Also the build is much better on the R2. So many improvements has been done.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I have older case above, with only onebfan hole, but I think both of Fractals should be quieter?


Surely I would say..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The R2 is cheaper than the original Arc Midi on Amazon...


Not sure if he's in the US..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> So, instead of price, I shouldn't buy rev.1 and look for the newer ones?


The R2 is a bit better but also more expensive it seems so it's up to you.


----------



## smoke2

I'm out of US.
Fractal Arc Midi rev.1 is in sell out for 50 EUR.
Then I'm thinking also about Fractal Define R4 for 85 EUR.
I have i5-3330 and single MSI GTX 670 PE OC, which will suits better for my configuration?
Can R4 cool it equally good as Arc Midi?


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm out of US.
> Fractal Arc Midi rev.1 is in sell out for 50 EUR.
> Then I'm thinking also about Fractal Define R4 for 85 EUR.
> I have i5-3330 and single MSI GTX 670 PE OC, which will suits better for my configuration?
> Can R4 cool it equally good as Arc Midi?


If its newer R4 vs Old Midi then the R4 would be a better choice IMO.


----------



## xINFINI7Y

Question about the Arc Midi R2, Can a H100i fit in the top of this case?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xINFINI7Y*
> 
> Question about the Arc Midi R2, Can a H100i fit in the top of this case?


Yes easily.


----------



## xINFINI7Y

Thanks!


----------



## Magnum26

A few places are starting to show the Define R4 as discontinued, if the R5 comes out soon I'm getting my order changed to one, as my order is on hold until stock comes in of the R4 and they have told me this is no ETA on the R4. I've contacted Fractal for confirmation on stock levels.


----------



## dbrisc

Arc XL that's a case I'm wanting! That or the midi r2 one of those will be my next build case!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm out of US.
> Fractal Arc Midi rev.1 is in sell out for 50 EUR.
> Then I'm thinking also about Fractal Define R4 for 85 EUR.
> I have i5-3330 and single MSI GTX 670 PE OC, which will suits better for my configuration?
> Can R4 cool it equally good as Arc Midi?


Get the Arc Midi rev.1 and use the extra €35 for better fans if needed. You could get some good 140mm PWM fans, use a PWM splitter with molex connecter to PSU to supply power and motherboard to supply PWM signal. This setup will outperform the newer R4.

As for the perforated top, put a nice piece of wood cut a little bigger than top or use some contract vinyl on it.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *octave*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> No unfortunately there is no way to mount it with tubes facing the correct direction unless you mount it on the top.
> 
> The exception would be if you used shrouds.
> 
> That would most likely allow you to get enough length to turn the block the correct direction but I can not promise you that.
> 
> 
> 
> That is an incorrect statement. It fits just fine, the hoses are just the right lenght even clearing the RAM.
Click to expand...

Not on that motherboard. I tried.

The fans would have to be back at least an inch. Unless some of the kits have slightly longer tubes but I doubt it. I could see if the motherboard had the socket a little closer to the radiator it could work but in my situation it does not.


----------



## powruser

What do you guys feel is the best fan orientation on the Arc Midi R2? 2 front fans as intake, bottom one as intake, rear as exhaust, and top two as exhaust? I was considering maybe switching the top two fans to intakes.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *powruser*
> 
> What do you guys feel is the best fan orientation on the Arc Midi R2? 2 front fans as intake, bottom one as intake, rear as exhaust, and top two as exhaust? I was considering maybe switching the top two fans to intakes.


That varies on what you have for cooling?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *powruser*
> 
> I was considering maybe switching the top two fans to intakes.


Yup. Positive pressure.


----------



## ZeVo

Guys, is it me or is the stock dust filter and the Midi way too restrictive?

Thinking about changing it, but I have no idea what other material I could use. Any suggestions?


----------



## DrizNasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lef013*
> 
> Hey what radiator are you using for top and front ?
> BTW your build is clean and awesome.


Sorry dude, I have not been paying attention, have been having too much fun with this machine, my rads are black ice gtx xtreme 240's, got them from frozen cpu


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Guys, is it me or is the stock dust filter and the Midi way too restrictive?
> 
> Thinking about changing it, but I have no idea what other material I could use. Any suggestions?


The mesh foam on the front panel?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The mesh foam on the front panel?


Yessir.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *powruser*
> 
> What do you guys feel is the best fan orientation on the Arc Midi R2? 2 front fans as intake, bottom one as intake, rear as exhaust, and top two as exhaust? I was considering maybe switching the top two fans to intakes.


That's what I was going to do but when I actually got the Midi R2, because of the anti-dust foam, I decided the top rad fans would be under the rad pushing air out. It probably doesn't change much though.


----------



## mritschris

My R4 has 8 drives in front and only the one default fan that came with the case i'm wondering if i should switch it for Quiet edition SP's or QE AF'S in the front.

I already have a dual pack of both types of fans.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Kimir

You have the fans, try them out and figure which are the best in perf/noise ratio.


----------



## steelkevin

Finally got around to taking proper pictures, had a total of 64 with different levels of darkness / brightness, narrowed it down to 14 and a friend helped me pick the best ones I couldn't decide on so I've got 10 left.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Please go easy on me, I would have better top fans and components but I barely have any money, the loop including everything cost me 200€ (concentrate blue pastel and the blue dye was free, the four Apaches I got for 6€ unit on sale and sold the old noctuas for 7€ each, bought everything second hand for 150€ and the tubing, fittings and Yates cost me 50€).


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Yessir.


Yea, the Midi R2 has a better filter. I'd say cut it round to the shape of the fan blade and add Silverstone FF141 if you want to avoid dust.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Guys, is it me or is the stock dust filter and the Midi way too restrictive?
> 
> Thinking about changing it, but I have no idea what other material I could use. Any suggestions?


It is a slight restrictive, but not enough to stop airflow. Noctua A14 PWM fans at 30% is enough to have airflow within case. As the top HDD is gone.
I find the dust filter stop more dust than any other, like FF141 or any metal/plastic mesh. Like the ones on the bottom of the cases for the PSU. Those do nothing to stop dust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mritschris*
> 
> My R4 has 8 drives in front and only the one default fan that came with the case i'm wondering if i should switch it for Quiet edition SP's or QE AF'S in the front.
> 
> I already have a dual pack of both types of fans.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


If you have all the drive filled and none the cage removed. Different fans wont help much, as all you do is cooling the drives.
The restrictions and gaps from the drives are enough to block airflow.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Yessir.


Yeah, I feel the same way. I was thinking of removing it the other day. Let me know what you decide to do.

EDIT: is the filter different on the original midi?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Guys, is it me or is the stock dust filter and the Midi way too restrictive?
> 
> Thinking about changing it, but I have no idea what other material I could use. Any suggestions?


I think it's more a fan issue than the filter. The stock fans are very low static pressure and just are not able to move enough air through the filter.


----------



## ZeVo

Thanks for replying.

doyll, I actually have A-14 FLX fans in my case (intake x2 and exhaust in the rear)

I can feel air coming through as I have them running at max RPM as my room gets really hot during the summer. My temps went up about 6C!

And yep Anonxy from what I've heard it's way better than the original Midi. I will take a look at those FF141's. I also though about going DEMCiflex before, but it was kind of pricey before and honestly thought it'd look stupid with a huge magnetic filter on the front.









Either way this is a mod for about time. I plan on putting some vinyl over my new PSU and on the side of the 5.25 bays. Also plan on sticking my old hard drive on the bottom of the 5.25 bays again as my 120GB SSD isn't enough for all my games lol.


----------



## Fade2Black

does the core 1000 case count?


----------



## MiiX

Im pretty sure all Fractal cases counts


----------



## Fade2Black

cool, i thought the only ones that counted for the club were the ones in the OP


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Guys, I just got the Arc Midi R2. Trying to put an XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 in it, but in the second 5.25 bay, there is a metal block in there. Does anyone know what that is? And if so, is there any way to remove it to put the res/pump in there?


----------



## Fade2Black

is it the thing for mounting SSD's and hard drives in those bays?
my one was screwed in with thumbscrews


----------



## Darth Scabrous

I'm not sure what it is. It has a lot of cutouts in it, but I'll try to remove it. Think I have to remove the hdd bay first to get to it.


----------



## Fade2Black

it sounds a lot like some sort of holder of sorts, it probably slides out somehow


----------



## RnRollie

try a picture
if it is in the top bay, it could be block that is holding the powerbutton & usb ports


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Guys, I just got the Arc Midi R2. Trying to put an XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 in it, but in the second 5.25 bay, there is a metal block in there. Does anyone know what that is? And if so, is there any way to remove it to put the res/pump in there?


Are you talking about this part?



Just twist/bend/pull it out.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Are you talking about this part?
> 
> 
> 
> Just twist/bend/pull it out.


Unless it's screwed on there


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Unless it's screwed on there


It's not







.

Sorry, I had no idea that was what you were talking about... might want to be more careful when describing stuff.
Yes, just rip it off. No idea why they put that on the Midi R2 though. I've seen such things used on cheap cases for the pci brackets.


----------



## Scarytiger

Hello all, I thought I'd share a few photos of my midi r2 build. There's more in my sig rig.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scarytiger*
> 
> Hello all, I thought I'd share a few photos of my midi r2 build. There's more in my sig rig.


Nice rig! That sli bridge is kind of an eyesore lol...if you have extra carbon fiber vinyl, slap some on the sli bridge....I usually do that and it looks much better


----------



## Scarytiger

That's an excellent idea my friend! The second 780 just arrived a few hours ago. I'm gonna try that out when I get home from work. Thanks!


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Unless it's screwed on there


I just broke that bastard off. I didn't know why it was there, so I just pulled it off. Still don't know why that part is there..


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I just broke that bastard off. I didn't know why it was there, so I just pulled it off. Still don't know why that part is there..


They left the cover when they mold the steel in case you don't use the slot. Lots of manufacturers do that.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

yeah I just hulked it off


----------



## actupsp

hi guys

this is my custom fractal r4 white with a complete WC :


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *actupsp*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> this is my custom fractal r4 white with a complete WC :


Pure EYE CANDY!!!! Great job on the psu cover!!!


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *actupsp*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> this is my custom fractal r4 white with a complete WC :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Such a nice build. How did you do the cover over the PSU? I am thinking I want to do something similar.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *actupsp*
> 
> hi guys
> this is my custom fractal r4 white with a complete WC :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Amazing build, great job my dear.
Almost made me hard.


----------



## Anoxy

Damnit, stop putting my poor PC to shame!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Damnit, stop putting my poor PC to shame!


I somehow feel the same way...


----------



## michael-ocn

Does anyone know of the switftech H2O-X20 fits up top in an arcmidi r2? Since h220's aren't an option for the time being, wondering about that kit which has a pump integrated at one end of the rad.


----------



## onin1911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Does anyone know of the switftech H2O-X20 fits up top in an arcmidi r2? Since h220's aren't an option for the time being, wondering about that kit which has a pump integrated at one end of the rad.


If you are talking about the swiftech rad with a reservoir, then it wont fit without modding or some kind. even at the front there is only one way to mount it since it will hit the clips that holds the front filter.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onin1911*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Does anyone know of the switftech H2O-X20 fits up top in an arcmidi r2? Since h220's aren't an option for the time being, wondering about that kit which has a pump integrated at one end of the rad.
> 
> 
> 
> If you are talking about the swiftech rad with a reservoir, then it wont fit without modding or some kind. even at the front there is only one way to mount it since it will hit the clips that holds the front filter.
Click to expand...

Part of what you said is correct.

On the top it will not fit, as it is 2" longer. For the front you need to measure. You can buy the H220 any where outside the US.
The clips are not in the way to mount a rad up front.


----------



## michael-ocn

What is the maximum length the *top* mount in the r2 supports? The spec sheet for the r2 does't go into enough detail for me to figure out if these will fit.

Here are diagrams for the MCR220 radiator with an integrated res on one end and a pump on the other end...
http://www.swiftech.org/images/products/MCRX20-DRIVE-REV3/MCR220-DRIVE-REV3-DIMENSIONSx800.jpg
... total length is 325mm. You can get this radiator w/o the integrated pump and thats 309mm.

There's a different but very similar model thats a little shorter and still has the integrated res...
http://www.swiftech.org/images/products/MCRX20-QP-RES-V2/MCR220-RES-V2-DIMENSIONS.jpg
... it's total length is 299.2mm.

Crap, these are definitely longer than the h220 radiator which is 269mm.

> You can buy the H220 any where outside the US
I'll have to look into what that does to the warranty?


----------



## gdubc

The midi r2 fits a 360 rad up top though, so wouldnt the h20-220 fit?


----------



## actupsp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Such a nice build. How did you do the cover over the PSU? I am thinking I want to do something similar.


it's in wood 3mm with a covering of sticker carbon white


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The midi r2 fits a 360 rad up top though, so wouldnt the h20-220 fit?


R2 dont actually fit a 360. The mounting holes do not line up. Plus clearance would be an issue and OD bay issues.

As for warranty, it is still covered for 3 years by Swiftech for the H220.


----------



## gdubc

Well that has to be one of the stupidest things I've seen fractal do.


----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HPE1000*


Clean! So how does the 670 hold up? No itching to go 780? I know I am with my only new 760 even though performance is great, I just want more


----------



## HPE1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ribozyme*
> 
> Clean! So how does the 670 hold up? No itching to go 780? I know I am with my only new 760 even though performance is great, I just want more


I am not sure yet, I am kind of holding off for amds next cards, obviously haswell would be a waste of time and money but as far as the gpu goes, I don't even play many demanding games to begin with.

The games I usually play are games like L4D2, Surgeon Simulator, Trials Evolution, and stuff like that, and my card handles it just fine. Although I will most likely grab a "9950-9970" or whatever they want to name it with a three fan cooler on it so it will be nice and quiet.


----------



## packerbackermk

I'm working on a build log right now. Thought you guys might be able to input a little knowledge.
Define R4 build log


----------



## Ribozyme

Thanks Fractal for making this awesome mITX case! Even fits the huge MSI twin frozer 760. Fits every card in length. Must check on the 7990 though


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Well that has to be one of the stupidest things I've seen fractal do.


Well no. It wasnt designed to fit. The issue would be clearance from the mobo and ram. Thats why there is offset for 240 rad on top, so you can add a 2nd rad up front.


----------



## gdubc

Kind of yeah tho. Why put the mount there in that case. You could still have fit a slim with just push fans. Would have been nice for the option is all I'm sayin.


----------



## michael-ocn

Hey Sp33d Junki3,

Your sig rig looks real nice and close to what i'd like to build. The biggest difference being I'd like to be able to run SLI'd cards in there. Maybe you can answer a couple/few questions about your build. Do you have the h220 in push/pull up top? What do you have mounted vertically against the right hand side up front? Looks like you removed the 'thermal armor' from the mobo, was that due to close clearance with the radiator/fan mounting up top? And finally did you have to cut/mod anything on the case to get that setup to fit?

Thnx
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Well no. It wasnt designed to fit. The issue would be clearance from the mobo and ram. Thats why there is offset for 240 rad on top, so you can add a 2nd rad up front.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Hey Sp33d Junki3,
> 
> Your sig rig looks real nice and close to what i'd like to build. The biggest difference being I'd like to be able to run SLI'd cards in there. Maybe you can answer a couple/few questions about your build. Do you have the h220 in push/pull up top? What do you have mounted vertically against the right hand side up front? Looks like you removed the 'thermal armor' from the mobo, was that due to close clearance with the radiator/fan mounting up top? And finally did you have to cut/mod anything on the case to get that setup to fit?
> 
> Thnx


H220 is in Push/Pull.
That vertical is my 256GB SSD. As the bottom only space for 3 drives, I decide to do a vertical mount.
I did remove it, I was planning to paint it. It is back on again. There is no issue with clearance, as the H220 is offset close to the side panel.
Nothing was cut.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H220 is in Push/Pull.
> That vertical is my 256GB SSD. As the bottom only space for 3 drives, I decide to do a vertical mount.
> I did remove it, I was planning to paint it. It is back on again. There is no issue with clearance, as the H220 is offset close to the side panel.
> Nothing was cut.


Thank you! If/when i ever get around to actually building my make believe build, I think i'll probably put it in this nice smallish but not too small case and hopefully with an h220 in there. I'm waiting on IB-E, but soon enough that wait will be over. The h220 asetek patent situation is a wrench in the works


----------



## ds84

Hi all, i would like to ask something about the Arc Midi R2... Supposedly i would be installing 2x front intake, 2x top exhaust, 1x rear exhaust, which configuration should i use for the bottom fan? Also, can i turn the bottom 3-hdd cage to be facing the PSU instead (removing the top cage and turning the bottom cage 90 degrees)? That way my front bottom fan would be blowing the hdd / ssd and helping to cool the innards, and the front top fan would be blowing the GPU.

I'm worried that the bottom fan being an intake fan would be conflicting with the front fans... any suggestions?


----------



## steelkevin

You can't turn the bottom 3.5" cage since it's rectangular and not square the screws and holes only work one way.
HDDs don't need extra cooling. Mine is up top where you can either put a 5.25" component or a 120mm fan. It's got no air flow passing over at all and runs between 30 and 40°C which is good. You should only worry if it reaches 50-60°C.
I don't see why you would want / need a bottom fan and don't see either how it would help or be an issue, sorry.


----------



## gdubc

Yeah you can. They are in brackets that allow for quick removal or sideways orientation. You can face them both ways. Do you have the midir2, steelkevin? You could put the top one a different direction from the bottom if you wanted to.


----------



## steelkevin

You're joking, right ?
He asked about the bottom cage not the top one. Maybe you can actually turn the bottom one, I may be wrong.
Do I have a Midi R2 ? No I don't which is why it's in my signature. Oh and that picture of the Midi R2 which is also in my signature, you know the one with my components and loop in it ? Well really I took that photo off google, it's not mine. Same goes for all the other pictures I've got.
Use your eyes and brain before typing such silly things.


----------



## gdubc

No need to b an ass. I just got up and read it. On my phone. I was seriously asking if you had it. Mine is in a box, but I have a define r4 also and you can switch both in that. According to the Fractal website the midi r2 is the same. Just trying to help, not b dickish.


----------



## ds84

But, lets say i put a bottom fan, would it be useful in the intake positive airflow or cooling of the gpu?? I'm worried that the bottom intake and front intake might collide and the airflow will be disturbed.


----------



## steelkevin

If it's possible then I'm sorry.
I honestly thought you were taking the piss.


----------



## Magnum26

Build plug, just got my R4 the other day, progress pics in my build log if anyone wants to have a look.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> But, lets say i put a bottom fan, would it be useful in the intake positive airflow or cooling of the gpu?? I'm worried that the bottom intake and front intake might collide and the airflow will be disturbed.


Dont worry so much.
I have my bottom HDD cage there it's fine with 2x 140mm fan in the front. The top one is the most important to create airflow. Plus the bottom cage leave about an inch shorter than the bottom 140mm fan. So some air passes over it.
Bottom I used a 140mm intake.
Rear/top exhaust


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> But, lets say i put a bottom fan, would it be useful in the intake positive airflow or cooling of the gpu?? I'm worried that the bottom intake and front intake might collide and the airflow will be disturbed.


unless using something like Silverstone AP fans, airflow in a case is always very turbulent... there is actually nothing to be gained by using APs or by "laminar" airflow. "laminar" Airflow is overrated. Balance counts: slight more IN than out without "fighting"

As long as you dont have your fans "fighting" too much, its ok

A setup like 2 front intake & 1 rear out + 1 top out should be enough. Depends a bit on the HS you'll use on the CPU
if you want positive pressure: 2 front intake, 2 top intake, 1 rear out - but you might have to run the rear out a bit faster thou

I dont see why you would need a bottom intake fan honestly; but, it depends on the your components: the HS on the CPU - because orientation of that HS might dictate how you have to set up the top & rear fan.
And the GPU, if a reference design, that exhausts to the the rear, then it MIGHT help to have bottom fan. IF one of those MSI Frozen series.. they tend to dump a lot of warm air IN the case and then Top intake + higher CFM rear fan might be needed

Anyways, if you think you have the need to for lots of fans at 1000 cfm, then this is not the case for you... then you need something different,with more ventilation options.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Anyone know the difference between the Arc Mini and the Arc Mini R2? I plan on taking out all of the drive bays (even the 5.25" ones). Those are riveted into the Arc Mini but I believe they unscrew in the Arc Mini R2?

Trying to plan my next build







.


----------



## phaseshift




----------



## Ribozyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


Beautiful


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phaseshift*


That orange actually looks pretty good am a bit tried of all the black and grey so yours really stand out


----------



## failwheeldrive

Looks awesome actupsp! I'm thinking about fabricating a psu cover for my Arc, though it won't extend to the front of the case like yours. The side panel looks great as well.


----------



## Anoxy

As an Oregon State alumni, I'm loving that color scheme!

and that ram is also lovely.


----------



## dbrisc

Well my arc midi r2 is on the way! Ordered today and can't wait. 70 bucks with free shipping I just couldn't pass that up! Super excited! Wanted to wait for the arc xl but that would have just been to much case for my build I think!


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Its freaking huge man, you'll be glad you got it instead of the XML.


----------



## dbrisc

Yeah I'm thinking so too! Maybe for another build someday a 2011 build when I win the lottery! Haha


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dbrisc*
> 
> Well my arc midi r2 is on the way! Ordered today and can't wait. 70 bucks with free shipping I just couldn't pass that up! Super excited! Wanted to wait for the arc xl but that would have just been to much case for my build I think!


Yea the Arc Midi R2 is a fairly big case. It's unbelievably wide and tall for just a mid tower. Pictures that you see on Newegg and what not make it look small, but in person its stinking huge.


----------



## ds84

Thanks for the input, i think i will stick to my original plan of having 2 front intakes, 2 top exhaust and 1 rear exhaust...i would be getting the hyper 212 evo in pull config, to push hot air into the rear exhaust...

and most likely, i will be mounting the bottom hdd cage onto the bottom fan area...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Thanks for the input, i think i will stick to my original plan of having 2 front intakes, 2 top exhaust and 1 rear exhaust...i would be getting the hyper 212 evo in pull config, to push hot air into the rear exhaust...
> 
> and most likely, i will be mounting the bottom hdd cage onto the bottom fan area...


Good start, dont see a point in moving the HDD cage. You have less clearance to plug in your drives and you will be seeing some of it in your window.
it wont improve airflow from the bottom front fan. What is important is the top front.
I would leave it as is and add bottom intake or remove all the HDD cage and add a bottom fan.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Good start, dont see a point in moving the HDD cage. You have less clearance to plug in your drives and you will be seeing some of it in your window.
> it wont improve airflow from the bottom front fan. What is important is the top front.
> I would leave it as is and add bottom intake or remove all the HDD cage and add a bottom fan.


Sorry, i typed wrong, my plan was to put the HDD cage in between the bottom fan area and original area... i dun want it to be too close to the fans as it would be blocking the intake airflow, would prefer to give it some allowance...

I would be doing a cable management such that it routes frm the PSU to the back, and comes out from a slightly higher hole to the SATA ports of the SSD/HDD.. I'm okay with it being slightly exposed in my window...

Maybe i will play around with the cage and see if i can have it facing the PSU, and the SATA ports facing the front fans... That way, i would like some clearance for the SATA cables..


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Sorry, i typed wrong, my plan was to put the HDD cage in between the bottom fan area and original area... i dun want it to be too close to the fans as it would be blocking the intake airflow, would prefer to give it some allowance...
> 
> I would be doing a cable management such that it routes frm the PSU to the back, and comes out from a slightly higher hole to the SATA ports of the SSD/HDD.. I'm okay with it being slightly exposed in my window...
> 
> Maybe i will play around with the cage and see if i can have it facing the PSU, and the SATA ports facing the front fans... That way, i would like some clearance for the SATA cables..


Look at how I have my HDD cage setup. It is in the original spot. only important is the front top fan.
Dont worry about the vertical mount. I did it that way myself.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Look at how I have my HDD cage setup. It is in the original spot. only important is the front top fan.
> Dont worry about the vertical mount. I did it that way myself.


Is it possible to rotate that cage 90 degrees? assuming i dun use the bottom tray...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Is it possible to rotate that cage 90 degrees? assuming i dun use the bottom tray...


No reason to so do. The way it will be mounted it will be very close to the PSU.
There is still space in between from the fan to the bottom HDD.


----------



## Ribozyme

Come to the dark side and buy the node 304 guys







Does anyone know if fractal plans on bringing more SFF cases on the market?


----------



## Magnum26

Any love for black, white and blue?


----------



## ds84

Just a quick one, what would you guys suggest for an optimal airflow, given that i have 2 front, 2 top and 1 rear??? thinking if i should add 1 more top...


----------



## ZeVo

Guys, I drilled out the bottom HDD cage thinking I'd never use a HDD, but buying about 10 games at the Steam sale, I need more room.

Where would you guys recommend I mount it? Or maybe should I buy the Scythe Himuro and place it on the floor of the case to make it look better?


----------



## RnRollie

if you've got a free 5 1/4 slot, use a convertor to 3.5
or with a little creativity, at the underside of the 5 1/4 cage
or on its side somewhere behind the MB tray
whereever you find a spot, as long as you dont mount diagonal

Or you could use an external drive... or a "network" drive

Follow instruction to move all of steam to external drive ; and only have the "current playing" game on the ssd (can use steam mover to create hardpoint)


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Just a quick one, what would you guys suggest for an optimal airflow, given that i have 2 front, 2 top and 1 rear??? thinking if i should add 1 more top...


Two Front IN
Two Top IN
One rear out - on a different fan header so you can up the rpms a bit

you can consider upturning the PSU also, so it takes air from IN the case iso through the bottom it depends on GPU and the CPU cooler


----------



## toyz72

i just picked up the midi r2 for $69 off the egg







. already own the arc mini,so i know it will be a great case to.


----------



## michael-ocn

Hmmm... I see some folks putting kraken x60s in the arcmidi r2 so i took a look at its length for comparison...

x60 - 312.5mm
h220 - 269mm
mcr220 (variants) - 299.2, 309, 325mm

So i think some of the mcr220 variants are viable options for the top mount. Might loose the ability to put a DVD in the top bay, but that's ok.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> What is the maximum length the *top* mount in the r2 supports? The spec sheet for the r2 does't go into enough detail for me to figure out if these will fit.
> 
> Here are diagrams for the MCR220 radiator with an integrated res on one end and a pump on the other end...
> http://www.swiftech.org/images/products/MCRX20-DRIVE-REV3/MCR220-DRIVE-REV3-DIMENSIONSx800.jpg
> ... total length is 325mm. You can get this radiator w/o the integrated pump and thats 309mm.
> 
> There's a different but very similar model thats a little shorter and still has the integrated res...
> http://www.swiftech.org/images/products/MCRX20-QP-RES-V2/MCR220-RES-V2-DIMENSIONS.jpg
> ... it's total length is 299.2mm.
> 
> Crap, these are definitely longer than the h220 radiator which is 269mm.
> 
> > You can buy the H220 any where outside the US
> I'll have to look into what that does to the warranty?


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> No reason to so do. The way it will be mounted it will be very close to the PSU.
> There is still space in between from the fan to the bottom HDD.


Which mounting holes do I use to move it further away for a rad? All of them are close together.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

if you have a rad up front, then you use lower left diagram. There is no set mounting holes, you use the fan grills holes.


----------



## packerbackermk

The guide that used to be out there on the web for mounting a 280mm in the front of the r4 is now a dead link. I was wondering if anyone has any experience or advice on doing this?


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> if you have a rad up front, then you use lower left diagram. There is no set mounting holes, you use the fan grills holes.


I wanted to mount my drive cage like the top right since the lower left one blocks my cables and can be seen through the window. Also, would mounting 2.5 inch HDDs on the motherboard tray be bad for either the HDD or everything on the motherboard?


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> I wanted to mount my drive cage like the top right since the lower left one blocks my cables and can be seen through the window. Also, would mounting 2.5 inch HDDs on the motherboard tray be bad for either the HDD or everything on the motherboard?


No it will be fine, if there was an issue they wouldn't have done it with the R4.


----------



## chromejaguar

anyone managed to mod the core 1000? to hold the hdds otherwise, I have to fit a blu ray drive & 3- 3.5 hdds
because the removable thing doesn't look very nice with the hdds on it


----------



## ZeVo

Ok guys so for now I have my HDD ghetto mounted under the 5.25 bays. I really am going to have to think of a more permanent solution though. I really don't want to mount it in the 5.25 bays themselves using that adapter as I think there'd be a lot of vibration and the cables would be visible.

So, either buy a Himuro and mount it there or drill the HDD cage back in. Which, by the way, how would I go about doing that? I know I'd need a rivet gun, but what size rivets would I need? If anyone has a link to some, I'd prefer it to be at like Home Depot, Lowes.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Anyone know the difference between the Arc Mini and the Arc Mini R2? I plan on taking out all of the drive bays (even the 5.25" ones). Those are riveted into the Arc Mini but I believe they unscrew in the Arc Mini R2?
> 
> Trying to plan my next build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


well... the arc mini r2 supports alot of watercooling with a 360 up top and a 240 in front, every bay (seriously, every) is removable and it has 2.5"-mounts behind mobo. that's at least what i can remember


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Ok guys so for now I have my HDD ghetto mounted under the 5.25 bays. I really am going to have to think of a more permanent solution though. I really don't want to mount it in the 5.25 bays themselves using that adapter as I think there'd be a lot of vibration and the cables would be visible.
> 
> So, either buy a Himuro and mount it there or drill the HDD cage back in. Which, by the way, how would I go about doing that? I know I'd need a rivet gun, but what size rivets would I need? If anyone has a link to some, I'd prefer it to be at like Home Depot, Lowes.


Well there is this you can get. It converts dual 5.25" bay to 3 HDD or 4 SSD.
Has a 80mm fan with filter to keep cool.

Evercool HD-AR-RBK HDD Cooling Box for Three 3.5 HDD or Four 2.5 HDD
I have one, the fan sucks. But Looks good in the Arc Midi R2


----------



## MiiX

Was amazed today by the Fractal Design Define Mini...
I built the system 4 sep. 2011. untouched, no dust from filters removed etc, no temp problems, this is what it looked like today when I opened the side door:


Case contains:
Asus P8P67-M B3
Intel Core i7 2600
Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB
Asus GTX 560Ti DCII
OCZ ModXstream Pro 700w (beware of extreamly short PCI cables)
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
Seriel Port PCI adapter

The only place I could find dust was ontop of the PSU.
The case is amazing, I was thinking someone else cleaned it, but I doubt my grandparents(who own this rig) would ever touch it. And I was right, no one has opened the case Since I built it. Im just amazed by this case. Does all the Define cases have theese EPIC dust filters?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Was amazed today by the Fractal Design Define Mini...
> I built the system 4 sep. 2011. untouched, no dust from filters removed etc, no temp problems, this is what it looked like today when I opened the side door:
> 
> 
> Case contains:
> Asus P8P67-M B3
> Intel Core i7 2600
> Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB
> Asus GTX 560Ti DCII
> OCZ ModXstream Pro 700w (beware of extreamly short PCI cables)
> Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
> Seriel Port PCI adapter
> 
> The only place I could find dust was ontop of the PSU.
> The case is amazing, I was thinking someone else cleaned it, but I doubt my grandparents(who own this rig) would ever touch it. And I was right, no one has opened the case Since I built it. Im just amazed by this case. Does all the Define cases have theese EPIC dust filters?


The Arc Midi R2 has the real mesh padded filters in front and top. In your case I see the drives are only in the top cage. I would move it to lower and remove the top cage completely, to give more airflow from the front fan with no restrictions.


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Case contains:
> Asus P8P67-M B3
> Intel Core i7 2600
> Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB
> Asus GTX 560Ti DCII
> OCZ ModXstream Pro 700w (beware of extreamly short PCI cables)
> Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB
> Seriel Port PCI adapter
> 
> The only place I could find dust was ontop of the PSU.
> The case is amazing, I was thinking someone else cleaned it, but I doubt my grandparents(who own this rig) would ever touch it. And I was right, no one has opened the case Since I built it. Im just amazed by this case. Does all the Define cases have theese EPIC dust filters?


Thats a beast of a machine for your grandparents lol. They playing some crysis?









But thats awesome about the lack of dust.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Ok guys so for now I have my HDD ghetto mounted under the 5.25 bays. I really am going to have to think of a more permanent solution though. I really don't want to mount it in the 5.25 bays themselves using that adapter as I think there'd be a lot of vibration and the cables would be visible.
> 
> So, either buy a Himuro and mount it there or drill the HDD cage back in. Which, by the way, how would I go about doing that? I know I'd need a rivet gun, but what size rivets would I need? If anyone has a link to some, I'd prefer it to be at like Home Depot, Lowes.


I mounted mine up top upside down where the 5.25" bay used to be. I used HDD screws and the rubber "spacers" that are on the 3.5" brackets. I can't hear it at all and unless you open the case and put your head almost inside you won't even know it is there.

It's was easy to do and I didn't have to mod anything or give a penny to anyone


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The Arc Midi R2 has the real mesh padded filters in front and top. In your case I see the drives are only in the top cage. I would move it to lower and remove the top cage completely, to give more airflow from the front fan with no restrictions.


Awsome, gotta check out that case for my parents new build








Well, I know I could, but there is no real need for it. Thank tho









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.theMetal*
> 
> Thats a beast of a machine for your grandparents lol. They playing some crysis?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But thats awesome about the lack of dust.


Heh yeah, its a true beast. It does run BF3 with okay FPS







He is playing single player first person games with good stories, so therfore the GPU








The CPU was on sale, I was first thinking a i5, but the i7 was more or less the same price at the time


----------



## Kimir

I envied those blue led on - other than white - define R4 so I put one onto mine









I left the red one for HDD activity, though. Purple look when both on:

Next step is the white tubing; when I receive them.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I mounted mine up top upside down where the 5.25" bay used to be. I used HDD screws and the rubber "spacers" that are on the 3.5" brackets. I can't hear it at all and unless you open the case and put your head almost inside you won't even know it is there.
> 
> It's was easy to do and I didn't have to mod anything or give a penny to anyone


Seems like an interesting idea. Can you post some pictures of how it looks like? I can't even get the Himuro in the US for less than $40, so I'm considering other things.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Well there is this you can get. It converts dual 5.25" bay to 3 HDD or 4 SSD.
> Has a 80mm fan with filter to keep cool.
> 
> Evercool HD-AR-RBK HDD Cooling Box for Three 3.5 HDD or Four 2.5 HDD
> I have one, the fan sucks. But Looks good in the Arc Midi R2


Hmm I've never considered those, but it would be better to have my SSD and HDD in the same place. Can you post a pic of how it looks like from the front? And if the fan sucks, maybe I can just buy a 80mm Noctua fan to replace it?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The fan is a molex type (Sucks already)
There is 2 brackets. One for 3x 3.5" HDD and 4x 2.5" drives. Cant use both. What can be done is use the 3.5" mounting and use the 2.5" SSD/HDD bracket to mount in that space.


----------



## ZeVo

I remember looking at this a while back, maybe this would be a better option?

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Other+World+Computing/MM35A52CMB/

Maybe I wouldn't need a fan to cool the HDD. Mine currently is at 33C, which I don't know if that is too cool for it. But the airflow in my system is good so maybe I wouldn't need it.

But thank you for the picture!


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Seems like an interesting idea. Can you post some pictures of how it looks like? I can't even get the Himuro in the US for less than $40, so I'm considering other things.
> Hmm I've never considered those, but it would be better to have my SSD and HDD in the same place. Can you post a pic of how it looks like from the front? And if the fan sucks, maybe I can just buy a 80mm Noctua fan to replace it?


It's dark so I can't really take more pictures but I have these two













My SSD is behind the motherboard. You could even just toss it behind there without using the mounting holes. It's an SSD, it doesn't heat nor vibrate so it really doesn't matter ^^.

EDIT: I'd wondered about HDD temps too since there is no air going over it up there but it turns out 30-40°C is ideal. 60°C is when you should worry.

EDIT 2: the HDD isn't touching the radiator by the way, it looks like it on that picture but there's a good 1-2mm gap.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> It's dark so I can't really take more pictures but I have these two
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My SSD is behind the motherboard. You could even just toss it behind there without using the mounting holes. It's an SSD, it doesn't heat nor vibrate so it really doesn't matter ^^.
> 
> EDIT: I'd wondered about HDD temps too since there is no air going over it up there but it turns out 30-40°C is ideal. 60°C is when you should worry.
> 
> EDIT 2: the HDD isn't touching the radiator by the way, it looks like it on that picture but there's a good 1-2mm gap.


Nice looking system you have there!









So I basically have the same thing as you now. The difference is I still have my entire 5.25 bay riveted in.





(excuse the crappy iPhone quality)

By the way, I also asked about swapping the stock foam filter in the front on the Midi for something else and found these pictures from a while back by a user:

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3170#post_17654331

Wouldn't it be better to put those Silverstone filters in front of the fans so they don't get dusty as well? Because I really hate this stock foam and want to get rid of it ASAP.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> well... the arc mini r2 supports alot of watercooling with a 360 up top and a 240 in front, every bay (seriously, every) is removable and it has 2.5"-mounts behind mobo. that's at least what i can remember


Can you verify that a 360 will set up top, because according to sp33d junki3 it does not. Mine is packed away in a box but I would like to find out without digging it out if possible. I was going to buy a 360 for it the other day but after speed junkie said it didn't fit I didn't bother, so I would like to know. Thanks!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> well... the arc mini r2 supports alot of watercooling with a 360 up top and a 240 in front, every bay (seriously, every) is removable and it has 2.5"-mounts behind mobo. that's at least what i can remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you verify that a 360 will set up top, because according to sp33d junki3 it does not. Mine is packed away in a box but I would like to find out without digging it out if possible. I was going to buy a 360 for it the other day but after speed junkie said it didn't fit I didn't bother, so I would like to know. Thanks!
Click to expand...

He was talking about the Arc Mini, not the Arc Midi


----------



## gdubc

Oops, I suck.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Nice looking system you have there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I basically have the same thing as you now. The difference is I still have my entire 5.25 bay riveted in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (excuse the crappy iPhone quality)
> 
> By the way, I also asked about swapping the stock foam filter in the front on the Midi for something else and found these pictures from a while back by a user:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3170#post_17654331
> 
> Wouldn't it be better to put those Silverstone filters in front of the fans so they don't get dusty as well? Because I really hate this stock foam and want to get rid of it ASAP.


Here's mine :3



Worse quality than your iPhone


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wait... How did you mount your HDD like that? :O.


----------



## DirkDaring

Rig I put together for parents after their almost 15 year old gateway finally died. R.I.P. that thing introduced me to the internets :-(. Excuse the crappy phone pics I do not own a good camera, bought it for the gf instead.


yep dat phanteks on a tiny xigmatek heatsink chugging away dropped temps by almost 5 degrees over 2 cougar fans ;-/.


phanteks everywhere except 2 stock and 1 rosewill in the back.

Anybody know a fan that doesn't whine when placed horizontal?


My Entry to the club. I personally have the titanium grey one sitting next to me but want to steal the white







.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> Here's mine :3
> 
> 
> 
> Worse quality than your iPhone


Nice rig and nice to see a Tesla R2 and yes not the best quality in the world


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Wait... How did you mount your HDD like that? :O.


Put some strong double sided tape on the HDD and slap the sucker underneath the 5.25 bays.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Put some strong double sided tape on the HDD and slap the sucker underneath the 5.25 bays.


Use a really big magnet.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> Use a really big magnet.


----------



## EssArTee4

Mine

http://s1205.photobucket.com/user/Essartee4/media/Loop_zps41f7acd3.jpg.html


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Put some strong double sided tape on the HDD and slap the sucker underneath the 5.25 bays.


I likes that HDD mounting job


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> Rig I put together for parents after their almost 15 year old gateway finally died. R.I.P. that thing introduced me to the internets :-(. Excuse the crappy phone pics I do not own a good camera, bought it for the gf instead.
> 
> 
> yep dat phanteks on a tiny xigmatek heatsink chugging away dropped temps by almost 5 degrees over 2 cougar fans ;-/.
> 
> 
> phanteks everywhere except 2 stock and 1 rosewill in the back.
> 
> Anybody know a fan that doesn't whine when placed horizontal?
> 
> 
> My Entry to the club. I personally have the titanium grey one sitting next to me but want to steal the white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Very Nice







...but my OCD is killing me seeing the power cable on the phanteks fan like that....perhaps rotating the fan so the cable is at the bottom (base of heatsink)? Don't mean to criticize, I'm just ocd like that lol


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Very Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...but my OCD is killing me seeing the power cable on the phanteks fan like that....perhaps rotating the fan so the cable is at the bottom (base of heatsink)? Don't mean to criticize, I'm just ocd like that lol


what if i told you.....? that i do little things like that on purpose just for people like you?







At least you know someone somewhere is thinking of you with a smile


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> what if i told you.....? that i do little things like that on purpose just for people like you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least you know someone somewhere is thinking of you with a smile


Ha ha ha...Good one!


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Very Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...but my OCD is killing me seeing the power cable on the phanteks fan like that....perhaps rotating the fan so the cable is at the bottom (base of heatsink)? Don't mean to criticize, I'm just ocd like that lol


haha... you'd just die if you saw the twisty tie on my nicely sleeved fan cable dangling near the back of my case


----------



## inrev`

Suggestions for a fan controller on the R4? ^=^


----------



## ZeVo

kevin, can you explain exactly how you mounted your HDD like that? Where did you put the spacers and the screws?


----------



## Magnum26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inrev`*
> 
> Suggestions for a fan controller on the R4? ^=^


Use the one that comes built in?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> kevin, can you explain exactly how you mounted your HDD like that? Where did you put the spacers and the screws?


It's daytime now so I can take pictures from angles that'll show how I did it.
Give me a couple minutes.




There you can see how it's mounted. I couldn't get the camera to focus when trying to do a close up on one of the screws, sorry about that.
The screws are the "hdd screws" included with the case. On the black box containing all the screws you'll be able to find out which ones I'm referring to.
I used the rubber "gromets" / "spacers" or whatever they're called. There are four on each 3.5" bracket that came with the case. I used those so I wouldn't get any vibrations and it works perfectly.


----------



## borderkill666

Hi guys









Anyone know when the Arc Mini R2 will came out?

I saw a video were a guy from fractal design says it was early august but the press release says early September


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice looking system you have there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I basically have the same thing as you now. The difference is I still have my entire 5.25 bay riveted in.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (excuse the crappy iPhone quality)
> 
> By the way, I also asked about swapping the stock foam filter in the front on the Midi for something else and found these pictures from a while back by a user:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3170#post_17654331
> 
> Wouldn't it be better to put those Silverstone filters in front of the fans so they don't get dusty as well? Because I really hate this stock foam and want to get rid of it ASAP.


Clean build, especially with the Noctua fans.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> haha... you'd just die if you saw the twisty tie on my nicely sleeved fan cable dangling near the back of my case


Oh no...the torture!!! Good thing you didn't post pics....I wouldn't have been able to sleep last night lol


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Clean build, especially with the Noctua fans.


Thank you! I think it's very 'meh' looking especially with some cables sticking out and that annoying yellow on the PSU cables, but soon I'll buy a new PSU and sleeve it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> It's daytime now so I can take pictures from angles that'll show how I did it.
> Give me a couple minutes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There you can see how it's mounted. I couldn't get the camera to focus when trying to do a close up on one of the screws, sorry about that.
> The screws are the "hdd screws" included with the case. On the black box containing all the screws you'll be able to find out which ones I'm referring to.
> I used the rubber "gromets" / "spacers" or whatever they're called. There are four on each 3.5" bracket that came with the case. I used those so I wouldn't get any vibrations and it works perfectly.


Awesome man. I don't think the HDD will fit vertically for me since I still have the 5.25 bays in, so I'll do it horizontally. I will post some more pictures soon!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Thank you! I think it's very 'meh' looking especially with some cables sticking out and that annoying yellow on the PSU cables, but soon I'll buy a new PSU and sleeve it!


What will you be buying?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What will you be buying?


Still no idea to be honest. But I'm thinking of buying it tomorrow or as quick as possible so I can enjoy the final weeks of summer with some gaming and not have to think about it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Still no idea to be honest. But I'm thinking of buying it tomorrow or as quick as possible so I can enjoy the final weeks of summer with some gaming and not have to think about it.


If its for the system you have under your sig you can power it with a 550 watts PSU

650-750 watts if you want a second video card

The Rosewill Hive and XFX Core Edition are good cheaper end options

Or the Roswill Capstone which is still pretty much the best bang for buck

Or you could get a Cooler Master V700 same PSU as the Corsair AX760/AX860 and Seasonic X / Platinum

But the V is cheaper then the Corsair/Seasonic versions so why pay more

Thats my 2 cents


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> If its for the system you have under your sig you can power it with a 550 watts PSU
> 
> 650-750 watts if you want a second video card
> 
> The Rosewill Hive and XFX Core Edition are good cheaper end options
> 
> Or the Roswill Capstone which is still pretty much the best bang for buck
> 
> Or you could get a Cooler Master V700 same PSU as the Corsair AX760/AX860 and Seasonic X / Platinum
> 
> But the V is cheaper then the Corsair/Seasonic versions so why pay more
> 
> Thats my 2 cents


Wow, that V700 is going for $110 now. Looks like a solid unit. Should I get a new HDD first? The one in my previous pictures is about seven years old and it's just so old and slow, so I want to get a new one. But I also want a new PSU for when I SLI and sell my current one to my dad, who's in need of one.

Halp?!


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Wow, that V700 is going for $110 now. Looks like a solid unit. Should I get a new HDD first? The one in my previous pictures is about seven years old and it's just so old and slow, so I want to get a new one. But I also want a new PSU for when I SLI and sell my current one to my dad, who's in need of one.
> 
> Halp?!


Get a HDD before the old one die

Your M12II is still good enough so why do you want a new PSU in the first place?

Just asking?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Get a HDD before the old one die
> 
> Your M12II is still good enough so why do you want a new PSU in the first place?
> 
> Just asking?


Probably right. I think I'll grab a WD Blue 1TB.

And no particular reason about upgrading my PSU really. A couple of months ago I was having issues where my computer would load into windows, the screen would flash different colors, then the PSU would shut down and make a high pitched noise. Since then the issue has gone away, but I haven't forgotten that and I've been suspicious of this PSU ever since.

Maybe I should just forget about that already haha.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Probably right. I think I'll grab a WD Blue 1TB.
> 
> And no particular reason about upgrading my PSU really. A couple of months ago I was having issues where my computer would load into windows, the screen would flash different colors, then the PSU would shut down and make a high pitched noise. Since then the issue has gone away, but I haven't forgotten that and I've been suspicious of this PSU ever since.
> 
> Maybe I should just forget about that already haha.


To bad you are from the US the new Super Flower Leadex 650/750 could have been a great option just not cheap

http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_detail.php?class=2&sn=17&ID=101&lang=en
http://www.super-flower.com.tw/products_detail.php?class=2&sn=16&ID=96&lang=en

Now that we have a 750/850 watts version i am going to replace my broken AX1200 with a Leadex

If i can get my hands on one


----------



## ZeVo

Those things look beast. I hear Super Flower makes really high end PSUs for other companies as well. But dang, not in the US. (We still have Microcenter







)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Those things look beast. I hear Super Flower makes really high end PSUs for other companies as well. But dang, not in the US. (We still have Microcenter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


The Rosewill Capstone is a Super Flower Golden Green
The Rosewill Tachyon is a Golden King
The EVGA SuperNova G2 is a Leadex Gold but only 1000 and 1300 watts so far

The list goes on think Super Flower has as many rebrand as Seasonic if not more

Anyway thats off topic from Fractal Design Cases


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> The Rosewill Capstone is a Super Flower Golden Green
> The Rosewill Tachyon is a Golden King
> The EVGA SuperNova G2 is a Leadex Gold but only 1000 and 1300 watts so far
> 
> The list goes on think Super Flower has as many rebrand as Seasonic if not more
> 
> Anyway thats off topic from Fractal Design Cases


Didn't know that. And yeah Super Flower does have a lot of rebrands.

And yeah, off topic a little bit, but thanks for the advice.

Anyway guys, I think I'm going to rivet back in the bottom HDD cage as I can't figure out where I'm going to mount my new one. kevin, I tried doing your method but the 5.25 bay itself got too much in the way when I tried to install it. I honestly couldn't fit my fingers in there to put the grommets and the screw in!

And as for my ghetto setup, I wouldn't want Ito have it mounted like that 24/7 with tape. It was only temporary with my old HDD.

So any other suggestions or should I just rivet back the HDD cage in? I'll sacrifice some airflow, but at least I'd have my SSD and HDD in the same place.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Put some strong double sided tape on the HDD and slap the sucker underneath the 5.25 bays.


Ahh I see







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> Use a really big magnet.


Haha







.


----------



## ZeVo

So I took out the front foam filter on my Midi and temps seemed to drop a couple of degrees. I still plan on buying some fan filter for the front that's better than the stock crap. I'm debating whether buying Demciflex (they have a custom Midi front filter you can buy) or just buy two FF141 filters and slap them in between the mesh and fan.

What do you guys think? Anyone have experience in either filters?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> So I took out the front foam filter on my Midi and temps seemed to drop a couple of degrees. I still plan on buying some fan filter for the front that's better than the stock crap. I'm debating whether buying Demciflex (they have a custom Midi front filter you can buy) or just buy two FF141 filters and slap them in between the mesh and fan.
> 
> What do you guys think? Anyone have experience in either filters?


Stock filters are very good, better than most case use. The rest are mesh, which dont help with dust. Like the one on the bottom of the Arc Midi. Those type really do little to help keep dust out.
Guarantee the dust will increase with those other ones. yes I have tried it with ones like the FF141.

Temp drop will be little unless the ambient changed. Also the fans used will determine on how well it is able to pull the air.
I'm using the NF-A14 PWM 2x front + 2x Top + 1x bottom intake and 1x Rear exhaust, all of them running at 30% (400rpm).
Once load hits, 60% (800rpm)
As long air is moved around and the top HDD cage is removed all will be fine.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Stock filters are very good, better than most case use. The rest are mesh, which dont help with dust. Like the one on the bottom of the Arc Midi. Those type really do little to help keep dust out.
> Guarantee the dust will increase with those other ones. yes I have tried it with ones like the FF141.
> 
> Temp drop will be little unless the ambient changed. Also the fans used will determine on how well it is able to pull the air.
> I'm using the NF-A14 PWM 2x front + 2x Top + 1x bottom intake and 1x Rear exhaust, all of them running at 30% (400rpm).
> Once load hits, 60% (800rpm)
> As long air is moved around and the top HDD cage is removed all will be fine.


I've heard the foam on the Midi R1 is decent, which I have, but the R2 is much better. As for my fans, I'm using NF-A14 FLX at 1200RPM for my front intake (x2) and one at the rear as an exhaust also at 1200RPM. NH-D14 is also at full.

I'll leave the filter alone then. I mean my temps are still great, but it's really hot here I wanted to see if there was anything I could do in the meantime.

Another question for you guys: are all, if not most of computer case rivets 1/8"? I'm going to install the bottom HDD cage back tomorrow for sure and need to go get a rivet gun and some rivets, but I had no idea what size they are. Also is it perfectly fine if they are aluminum? Home Depot doesn't have anything else in stock.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-1-8-in-Aluminum-Rivets-100-Pack-PAA42-1B/100654904#.UfsyXJK1HoE

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-10-in-Medium-Duty-Riveter-MR33C/203771504#.UfsyRJK1HoE


----------



## Turt1e

The filters make my system significantly louder and block a lot of airflow for me, so I usually remove the top one when stress testing.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> So I took out the front foam filter on my Midi and temps seemed to drop a couple of degrees. I still plan on buying some fan filter for the front that's better than the stock crap. I'm debating whether buying Demciflex (they have a custom Midi front filter you can buy) or just buy two FF141 filters and slap them in between the mesh and fan.
> 
> What do you guys think? Anyone have experience in either filters?


I can´t say a lot about the Demciflex, because I didn´t try one out.
For my Arc midi I used to Change every Filter against FF141, as you said between the mesh and fan (my reason was esthetics primary).
The result was quiet and more pleasing for the eye IMO.


----------



## stnz

Here's mine : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/EmN


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stnz*
> 
> Here's mine : http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/b/EmN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A build log is on his way, when I'll have time >_<


Nice build so you did end up with a NZXT HALE 90 V1?

Glad to see all that work you put into it paied of looks great


----------



## stnz

Yep, I did end up with one, I'll update some pictures on the thread soon







.
I'm glad indeed, that all the work and your help (and the people on the thread in general).
And yeah, for a first build, not too too bad \o/


----------



## Kurio

Ey guys got a Arc Midi R1. Does this fit a 240 rad in front without mod? i cant see the screw places, damn..


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Ey guys got a Arc Midi R1. Does this fit a 240 rad in front without mod? i cant see the screw places, damn..


Did you just buy that case? It does have offset mounts.


----------



## Kurio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Did you just buy that case? It does have offset mounts.


Sorry I dont understand so well. No, haved it for a long time. Have a 240 rad in top, but want a 240 in front. Today I removed the HDD cage and all. You mean like mount it to the 2 fans which already is there?

Cheers mate


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I can´t say a lot about the Demciflex, because I didn´t try one out.
> For my Arc midi I used to Change every Filter against FF141, as you said between the mesh and fan (my reason was esthetics primary).
> The result was quiet and more pleasing for the eye IMO.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks nice! One of the reasons I also want to change it is also aesthetics, but also just to see what is more effective for me (stock foam or FF141.)


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Ey guys got a Arc Midi R1. Does this fit a 240 rad in front without mod? i cant see the screw places, damn..


You have to mod it to use a rad in the front. The fans in the front are held by clips and not by screws.


----------



## ZeVo

Wow, didn't know Demciflex had Midi R1 filters. Thought you had to do a custom filter and measure by yourself, but they already got them!

http://www.demcifilter.com/c68/FRACTAL-DESIGN-ARC-MIDI.aspx

I really want to get one, but I hear mixed reviews on their filters. Are they really as restrictive as they say? My NF-A14 FLX's don't have the highest static pressure so I'm afraid they'd struggle to get air through.


----------



## Kurio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> You have to mod it to use a rad in the front. The fans in the front are held by clips and not by screws.


Oh.. I was thinking that I could just use those 2 120 fans which is there and use screws on them as holes. Since they have holes. Wouldn't that work really?


----------



## gdubc

You would have to drill through the plastic frame that the fans mount to. There aren't holes in it.


----------



## Kurio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You would have to drill through the plastic frame that the fans mount to. There aren't holes in it.


There are holes in the fans. I mean just mounting my rad to the fans, you understand what I mean?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> There are holes in the fans. I mean just mounting my rad to the fans, you understand what I mean?


That wont work well, as the fans mounting are not lined up correctly.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> There are holes in the fans. I mean just mounting my rad to the fans, you understand what I mean?


That wont work well, as the fans mounting are not lined up correctly.


----------



## Colt

If anyone here owns the R4, is it possible to remove the bigger 5-tray HDD cage and attach the smaller 3-tray cage in its place?


----------



## Kurio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That wont work well, as the fans mounting are not lined up correctly.


Damn your right. I'll change case then, bye Arc. ^^


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Get the Arc Midi R2. Improves on the case with the same offset on top + correct front mounting.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Damn your right. I'll change case then, bye Arc. ^^


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Get the Arc Midi R2. Improves on the case with the same offset on top + correct front mounting.


What Sp33d Junki3 said, if you can, go with the Arc Midi R2 since you can mount a rad in the front without a problem!









Here's a video:






Or you could use one of these...just make sure it will fit your rad standing up since this bracket is to mount the rad horizontally.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_987&products_id=30108


----------



## Kurio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> What Sp33d Junki3 said, if you can, go with the Arc Midi R2 since you can mount a rad in the front without a problem!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a video:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could use one of these...just make sure it will fit your rad standing up since this bracket is to mount the rad horizontally.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_335_987&products_id=30108


Yeah I know, but Arc isn't a great case, neither is my Define XL, so I'll change to Lian Li or something with quality.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Yeah I know, but Arc isn't a great case, neither is my Define XL, so I'll change to Lian Li or something with quality.


What? Arc Midi R2 is a great case. Quality is very good. Lian Li is not watercooling friendly. You pay for a higher cost, with little flexibility. Plus not all there cases are good quality.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What? Arc Midi R2 is a great case. Quality is very good. Lian Li is not watercooling friendly. You pay for a higher cost, with little flexibility. Plus not all there cases are good quality.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Colt*
> 
> If anyone here owns the R4, is it possible to remove the bigger 5-tray HDD cage and attach the smaller 3-tray cage in its place?


Yes you can, but for better airflow you might want to leave it at the bottom


----------



## narciso

Joined the club, I've received my Define R4 black and unfortunately I have issues with both my panels, bent corner, warped zones by the screw holes, scratch marks, etc, not very good Quality Control.
I've contacted them by using their form in their website, let's see if their customer support is better than their QC. I've contacted them Thursday, still waiting for a response. I'm from Portugal by the way.
One example: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/993l.jpg/


----------



## toyz72

i just got my midi r2 and looking for some suggestions on 140mm fans. what fans have you guys found that are strong enough to pull though these thick filters? i was thinking about going with corsair sp fans(120mm)?

i have a fan controller,so i'm not concerned to much about rpm.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i just got my midi r2 and looking for some suggestions on 140mm fans. what fans have you guys found that are strong enough to pull though these thick filters? i was thinking about going with corsair sp fans(120mm)?
> 
> i have a fan controller,so i'm not concerned to much about rpm.


I don't think they make the SP fans in 140mm....I could be wrong.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> I don't think they make the SP fans in 140mm....I could be wrong.


no they don't...just 120mm. i was thinking on going with the corsair 140's, but wasnt sure if they had enough power to pull air though the filter's?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> no they don't...just 120mm. i was thinking on going with the corsair 140's, but wasnt sure if they had enough power to pull air though the filter's?


I'm using the corsair AF140's in the front but then again, I have the Arc Midi R1 and I removed the front air filter. It doesn't pull much air but just enough.

Here are some options that I would go with (just my








):

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186080

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186081 (PWM)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553007

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426041

Then there's always the best which is Noctua but not sure if you like the colors....I would wait till they start selling the black version of the Noctuas.


----------



## toyz72

i love noctua's,lol. i have a hell of a collection of them. i'm running the newer u14s cpu cooler right now. i'm going to be moving most of my noctua fans over to the wife's rig soon.

right now i'm just trying to find some good cooling options for my new midi r2. thx for taking the time to help me out on some fan chioces.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i love noctua's,lol. i have a hell of a collection of them. i'm running the newer u14s cpu cooler right now. i'm going to be moving most of my noctua fans over to the wife's rig soon.
> 
> right now i'm just trying to find some good cooling options for my new midi r2. thx for taking the time to help me out on some fan chioces.


Well then lol







....no problem man!







I can't wait for the black version to come out so I can find out what the Noctua's are all about


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

As long the top HDD cage is removed, any fan including stock is enough to have air flow through the case.
You can add bottom fan to help cool the gpu and direct airflow.
I'm using the Noctua A14 PWM, fan is set to 30% (400 rpm) which is enough to have airflow.
Silence is golden for me, when working fans go 60% under load. No more is needed.


----------



## toyz72

its assame my 140 flx fans wont work out the way i want them to. i'm trying to talk myself out of ordering noctua's new 140mm fans,lol. silence is golden to me also.

so out of noctua's newer 140 fans,which one would you guys pick up as intake,and exhaust? oh, by the way, i have this fan controller also...........
http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&prod=80

found this cheaper at amazon....
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Cooling-NF-A14-FLX/dp/B00AEGRGNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375591910&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+nf-a14+flx


----------



## gdubc

I have *these* and like them. They have a 120mm mount but are 140mm fans with switches for speed control built in, have high static pressure, as well as being pwm. All this for a good price and they are Silverstone quality. The only thing is they are thick and fit in the front easily.


----------



## ZeVo

toyz, if you haven't done so already, hit up Tator Tot's fan thread. Lots of good info in there.

I would definitely vouch for those Silverstone fans gdubc linked. They are so beast looking and have really good air pressure.

I'm getting a Demciflex filter soon which many say is restrictive so I'll see how my NF-A14 FLX's hold up. If not, those Silverstone's are my next choice.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> toyz, if you haven't done so already, hit up Tator Tot's fan thread. Lots of good info in there.
> 
> I would definitely vouch for those Silverstone fans gdubc linked. They are so beast looking and have really good air pressure.
> 
> I'm getting a Demciflex filter soon which many say is restrictive so I'll see how my NF-A14 FLX's hold up. If not, those Silverstone's are my next choice.


they're a little to much for me. i guess i'm leaning towards noctua 140's,or corsair 140's. is there any chance a h110 will fit in the front of this case(midi r2)?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> toyz, if you haven't done so already, hit up Tator Tot's fan thread. Lots of good info in there.
> 
> I would definitely vouch for those Silverstone fans gdubc linked. They are so beast looking and have really good air pressure.
> 
> I'm getting a Demciflex filter soon which many say is restrictive so I'll see how my NF-A14 FLX's hold up. If not, those Silverstone's are my next choice.


The Demiflex would be worse than the stock. So no point in wasting money on those.
Like I mentioned, as long the airflow is fine without restrictions, you'll be fine. The A14 is good to use., as i have 6 of them in the case.
The temp difference is not going to be that big, your ambient with be the factor. If I can run my fans at 400rpm with the stock filters and still get temps below 65c cpu and gpu 45c, then there is no issues.


----------



## ZeVo

I feel they are restrictive though, and a lot. GPU at load is under 65C but CPU reaches high 80s. It's about 81F in my room now so maybe that explains it..


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I feel they are restrictive though, and a lot. GPU at load is under 65C but CPU reaches high 80s. It's about 81F in my room now so maybe that explains it..


I had the Demiflax on my HAF X, they did no better than the ones it came with.
With that high ambient, no fans will help cool your system.
Exactly how many fans are used in the case?
Show you mine is set up. CPU is maxed out a 65c, fans are at 60% when under load. 800rpm


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> With that high ambient, no fans will help cool your system.
> Exactly how many fans are used in the case?
> Show you mine is set up. CPU is maxed out a 65c, fans are at 60% when under load. 800rpm


Dang, so that's the issue. My parents really don't want to crank the AC up, so I'll have to deal with it I guess.

My setup is: 2x NF-A14 FLX intakes (1200 RPM) NH-D14 at max RPM (can't remember RPM) and another A14 FLX in the rear at 1200 RPM.

Very nice system by the way!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Dang, so that's the issue. My parents really don't want to crank the AC up, so I'll have to deal with it I guess.
> 
> My setup is: 2x NF-A14 FLX intakes (1200 RPM) NH-D14 at max RPM (can't remember RPM) and another A14 FLX in the rear at 1200 RPM.
> 
> Very nice system by the way!


So you dont have anything on the top or bottom? I set my top as Intake, as it worked out better. Bottom intake to help GPU better.
if you have your cpu OC and increase voltage then temps will be hotter.
Top HDD cage is gone, so clear airflow.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> So you dont have anything on the top or bottom? I set my top as Intake, as it worked out better. Bottom intake to help GPU better.
> if you have your cpu OC and increase voltage then temps will be hotter.
> Top HDD cage is gone, so clear airflow.


Nope, no fans in top or bottom. I was thinking of gutting out the rear fan mesh because from the tests I've seen temps are a lot cooler. I'd put that one fan to use then. Also have no HDD cages in, but I will be putting the bottom one back in soon. And yes I know they will be hotter so maybe I should ease off the OC for now. But it has to due with my ambient temps, right? It's super hot this summer.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Nope, no fans in top or bottom. I was thinking of gutting out the rear fan mesh because from the tests I've seen temps are a lot cooler. I'd put that one fan to use then. Also have no HDD cages in, but I will be putting the bottom one back in soon. And yes I know they will be hotter so maybe I should ease off the OC for now. But it has to due with my ambient temps, right? It's super hot this summer.


I would use top fans to exhaust. The space between the rear and heatsink has little room to be of use.
It is best to try to help increase your airflow. You can use the stock fans that came with the case.


----------



## CaCP3RO

It's beginning of BloodyMod...


----------



## stickg1

I think I'm done tinkering for a bit. It will likely stay like this for a while.

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/watercoolMVF1_zps42f91082.jpg.html

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/watercoolMVF2_zps0e4e627d.jpg.html

Specs:

3770K @ 4.7GHz
Maximus V Formula Z77
G.Skill Trident X 8GB CL10 2600MHz
EVGA GTX 760 SC ACX w/ EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition Nickel Acetal
Seasonic X-650
256GB Crucial M4
750GB WD Black 2.5"
Fractal Designs Arc Midi R2
XSPC Raystorm
Black Ice GT 240mm w/ P/P Corsair SP120
XSPC RS240mm w/ Thermalright Highs
Swiftech MCP-655B
Bitspower Z-Tank 150mL

A couple of blemishes, I have a final order to place for appropiate fittings. There's a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer on the return line from the GPU to the res because I ran out of 45 deg 1/2" rotary barbs but I had a 3/8" barb and reducer on hand


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I've just finished a mock up of a false wall to go where the hdd cage is on the R4. Waiting on some 5mm acrylic so I can make the final product.

Also making a cover for the optical bays and psu.

I'll post some pics when they're done.


----------



## XSHollywood

Use nothing. Take a pair of needle-nose pliers and rip the foam out from between the metal mesh and plastic frame. People get WAAAY too hung up on 'filters' for computers. Unless your computer lives in a bakery, or the high-desert, you shouldn't ever have enough dust to worry about. Just keep a medium horse-hair paintbrush in your tool box and brush the front off every now and then.

Without the foam it'll breath MUCH better. Hell, I'm getting great temps from two front intake and one rear exhaust. Bottom 140mm fan spot (between power supply and hdd/ssd cage) blocked with packing tape over the bottom filter, and kept the foam up top. The foam creates enough resistance for air to pretty much go from front to back and not leak out much. Until I decide to water-cool, I'm thinking of totally blocking the top with black posterboard. (or white)


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Here is my watercooled Arc Midi R2


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSHollywood*
> 
> Use nothing. Take a pair of needle-nose pliers and rip the foam out from between the metal mesh and plastic frame. People get WAAAY too hung up on 'filters' for computers. Unless your computer lives in a bakery, or the high-desert, you shouldn't ever have enough dust to worry about. Just keep a medium horse-hair paintbrush in your tool box and brush the front off every now and then.
> 
> Without the foam it'll breath MUCH better. Hell, I'm getting great temps from two front intake and one rear exhaust. Bottom 140mm fan spot (between power supply and hdd/ssd cage) blocked with packing tape over the bottom filter, and kept the foam up top. The foam creates enough resistance for air to pretty much go from front to back and not leak out much. Until I decide to water-cool, I'm thinking of totally blocking the top with black posterboard. (or white)


but not everybody is a compulsive cleaner








plenty of people get by with once a week or once a month pointing to their vacuumcleaner and tell it to "go clean, chop chop"
You'l be amazed how fast "common household dust" accumulates... not to mention "common dorm dust"







Add a smoker to that room and the inside gets dirty & sticky very fast.









Filters also help to keep mozzies & flies & roaches out


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Here is my watercooled Arc Midi R2


Holy Crap!!! What kind of light do you have in there??? Nice rig btw!


----------



## blue-cat

Looks like little strip lights they're very cheap although I think bits of mine have blown/overheated/who knows. Either way some of the leds have blown







Only a few quid though


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Here is my watercooled Arc Midi R2


It would look much better if you shortened the run from the rad to the bay res. Perhaps flipping inlet and outlet on the rad around so that the run from the radiator to the res is closer to the motherboard and the run from the cpu to the rad is closer to the side panel would be cleaner (if I'm making sense at all lol.) Nice start though; I like the coolant.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Looks like little strip lights they're very cheap although I think bits of mine have blown/overheated/who knows. Either way some of the leds have blown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only a few quid though


I had bought some led strips by NZXT but they weren't too bright....I had to get some of these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812551004

but I still don't think they look as bright as Dark Scabrous led's


----------



## ds84

What led lights you are using? im thinking of making something like spotlights to shine on my components from the top corners with white lights... any suggestions?


----------



## stickg1

I used these before. 16ft for $14 is not bad at all.

http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Flexible-Lighting-Bright-300SMD/dp/B005GL5R56/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1375721957&sr=8-6&keywords=hitlights+white+led

Although you have to make your own power connectors. There is a thread about it somewhere on here....

Here it is:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246458/easy-cheap-led-case-lighting/0_30

Here's one that I did with hitlights LEDs

http://www.overclock.net/t/1246458/easy-cheap-led-case-lighting/270_30#post_19261715


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSHollywood*
> 
> Use nothing. Take a pair of needle-nose pliers and rip the foam out from between the metal mesh and plastic frame. People get WAAAY too hung up on 'filters' for computers. Unless your computer lives in a bakery, or the high-desert, you shouldn't ever have enough dust to worry about. Just keep a medium horse-hair paintbrush in your tool box and brush the front off every now and then.
> 
> Without the foam it'll breath MUCH better. Hell, I'm getting great temps from two front intake and one rear exhaust. Bottom 140mm fan spot (between power supply and hdd/ssd cage) blocked with packing tape over the bottom filter, and kept the foam up top. The foam creates enough resistance for air to pretty much go from front to back and not leak out much. Until I decide to water-cool, I'm thinking of totally blocking the top with black posterboard. (or white)


Ok, then come to my home and you can clean the dust. Where I am it is very bad, have to dust my home every 3-4 days. It is worse in other home is even worse, were across the street from a wood mill.
I've had no dust filters and within a week, everything was covered, black has a slight whitish look.

I also have great temps, but running at low speed. More load faster speeds. All PWM, which is nice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> What led lights you are using? im thinking of making something like spotlights to shine on my components from the top corners with white lights... any suggestions?


I use the Bitfenix Alchemy Strips White 30cm. One on the bottom and one on top behind fans. Gives a nice look.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think I'm done tinkering for a bit. It will likely stay like this for a while.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/watercoolMVF1_zps42f91082.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/watercoolMVF2_zps0e4e627d.jpg.html
> 
> Specs:
> 
> 3770K @ 4.7GHz
> Maximus V Formula Z77
> G.Skill Trident X 8GB CL10 2600MHz
> EVGA GTX 760 SC ACX w/ EK-VGA Supremacy Bridge Edition Nickel Acetal
> Seasonic X-650
> 256GB Crucial M4
> 750GB WD Black 2.5"
> Fractal Designs Arc Midi R2
> XSPC Raystorm
> Black Ice GT 240mm w/ P/P Corsair SP120
> XSPC RS240mm w/ Thermalright Highs
> Swiftech MCP-655B
> Bitspower Z-Tank 150mL
> 
> A couple of blemishes, I have a final order to place for appropiate fittings. There's a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer on the return line from the GPU to the res because I ran out of 45 deg 1/2" rotary barbs but I had a 3/8" barb and reducer on hand


Looks good. Some blood red dye would complete your build.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Here is my watercooled Arc Midi R2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The blue looks really good. I would use an angled fitting to clean up that saggy tube.


----------



## mshaddix

Hey guys,

Anyone here have a mini ITX mobo installed in the Arc Mini and could post a pic? I'm thinking about changing from the Bitfenix Prodigy to the Mini. I know the mobo will fit, but I am trying to get a good visual before I order the case.

I'm using the Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe motherboard.


----------



## toyz72

i started the tear down of my midi r2 today. getting it ready for its new noctua 140 flx fans







i put the 140mm r2 fans up on ocn for sale if anyone is looking for a good deal.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Yeah, the tube from the res to the rad is like that because I had a shorter tube, and it didn't allow me to pull out the res to fill/drain. But in about 2 months, I'm getting rid of the res/pump and using something that doesn't go in the drive bay. Then, I'll use right angle fittings to make it look much better.

As for the light, I'm using 1 Bitfenix Alchemy 30cm White led strip. Pretty expensive, but it gives me even lighting. The glue sucked, so I put my own on it, now its snug.

Coolant is EC6. When I drain and add different bay/res and start cooling the gpus (no blocks for the vapor-x unfortunately), I'll be switching to Mayhems.


----------



## ZeVo

..and I just scratched my front panel when I was trying to cut off the tabs.







Guess I will leave it for now although it is killing me just thinking about it.

Any news on any new FD cases? Haven't been keeping track of any new updates.


----------



## steelkevin

Cut off the tabs ? Which "tabs" ?
I thought you were just switching the stock fans out for Noctuas.

Oh and btw, the N14-FLX (or are they called P14-FLX ?) Noctuas use 120mm mounting holes. If you'vetaken the time to look at your Midi R2 you'll probably have noticed the 120mm mounting holes up front aren't both centered (in the middle of the 140mm holes, as usually) which means you can't use the 120mm mounting holes up front for two 140mm fans since it was designed to fit a 240mm rad. I
Those Noctuas come with mounting "extensions" that allow for standard 140mm mounting holes to be used.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Cut off the tabs ? Which "tabs" ?
> I thought you were just switching the stock fans out for Noctuas.
> 
> Oh and btw, the N14-FLX (or are they called P14-FLX ?) Noctuas use 120mm mounting holes. If you'vetaken the time to look at your Midi R2 you'll probably have noticed the 120mm mounting holes up front aren't both centered (in the middle of the 140mm holes, as usually) which means you can't use the 120mm mounting holes up front for two 140mm fans since it was designed to fit a 240mm rad. I
> Those Noctuas come with mounting "extensions" that allow for standard 140mm mounting holes to be used.


These 'tabs.' 

Nope, I wasn't ever going to change the stock fans for Noctua's. I already have the FLX-A14's for a couple of months now. Great fans. But I don't think that second question was directed towards me.


----------



## KevGann

Does anyone have news or an idea, when the Arc Mini R2 is going to be release in the US? Excited, but my build is waiting on this thing.


----------



## fighter25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> Does anyone have news or an idea, when the Arc Mini R2 is going to be release in the US? Excited, but my build is waiting on this thing.


Waiting too. And I need it soon! I'm going back to school and I don't want my PC on a box again!


----------



## XSHollywood

Jeebus! "Keeping the flies, smoke and roaches out", I'm scared to ask where you live!?!


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Ok, then come to my home and you can clean the dust. Where I am it is very bad, have to dust my home every 3-4 days. It is worse in other home is even worse, were across the street from a wood mill.
> I've had no dust filters and within a week, everything was covered, black has a slight whitish look.
> 
> I also have great temps, but running at low speed. More load faster speeds. All PWM, which is nice.
> I use the Bitfenix Alchemy Strips White 30cm. One on the bottom and one on top behind fans. Gives a nice look.


What connectors do they use? Was thinking of pairing up with Scythe Kaze Master II Fan controller to help control the luminuous...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> What connectors do they use? Was thinking of pairing up with Scythe Kaze Master II Fan controller to help control the luminuous...


Mine is connected to the built in fan controller of the Arc Midi R2, via Molex to 3pin.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> These 'tabs.'
> 
> Nope, I wasn't ever going to change the stock fans for Noctua's. I already have the FLX-A14's for a couple of months now. Great fans. But I don't think that second question was directed towards me.


sorry about that, was on my found and for some reason I thought you had posted what Toyz had x)


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> sorry about that, was on my found and for some reason I thought you had posted what Toyz had x)


No harm done.


----------



## Kurio

I am so sick of frickin watercooling in Arc Midi, so I will show how a Arc Midi should look. Best PSU space ever.


----------



## vpinkhasov

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> I am so sick of frickin watercooling in Arc Midi, so I will show how a Arc Midi should look. Best PSU space ever.


Hey i'm building a loop in an arc midi r2 right now.








Deal with it


----------



## ds84

The third fan at the top, which is near to the ODD drive cage, would it be useful to put it there? I can only see it cooling my fc5v2 and i dun think it will help in the airflow...

I am thinking of top 2 fans and front 2 fans to be intake, and rear to be exhaust. Would be shifting my bottom hdd cage a little back or maybe onto the bottom fan space. Any other suggestions?

Or since im gonna get the EVGA GTX 770 SC w/ ACX, i believe the fans on the GPU would be exhausting hot air. So, is it wise to set the bottom fan to be exhaust, so that it can collect the hot air and quickly release it?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> I am so sick of frickin watercooling in Arc Midi, so I will show how a Arc Midi should look. Best PSU space ever.


That's your opinion.
I personnaly find that setup silly. If you put your PSU there you be able to have a proper front rad, you could have a 240 in the bottom but plugging the PSU to a socket will be harder. So basically your just making things harder on yourself for no good reason.
That and your loop isn't even complete, your picture is blury and you used a flash.
Next time you want to make a point try harder. I look forward to seeing the end result though







.

Here's what watercooling in an Arc Midi R2 should, in my opinion, look like (with a GPU in the loop):



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








EDIT: nice PCI brackets








Are you going to be using mayhems Blue Berry Pastel ? It'd perfectly fit your color theme.


----------



## Kurio

You need to remember this is a Arc Midi R1, and R1 doesnt have mounts for a rad in front. Mayhem cant be bought here.







Second I am like I dont care how the loop looks, I want it cheap hehe.







My PSU is way to long for fitting a 240 rad in bottom. Having a 240 rad in front looks silly and there aren't realy mounts for it. And it's always best to have have rads in bottom / top for best flow. I know I could do it like you, but I need cooling, and with this type of choice, I have more place for watercooling. I can actually fit a bigass 280 rad now. And I have to 2X 780 that I am going to watercool there too.


----------



## steelkevin

Oh, so you've got the first version of the Arc Midi, sorry about that, my bad. Then you are actually ,gaining for placing the PSU in the front since you can't have a rad there I guess







.
Wait, what now ? Where are you thinking about fitting a 280mm rad ? I've got two of those, both 55mm thick and I can't see anywhere in your current setup where you could have one :/.
I hate you for that last sentance







. At best I'll be getting a watercooled 770 (I love the number 7 and said about two years ago my next upgrade would be a 770







), depending on what AMD have to offer and when I might decide to get one of their cards because of the free games (if BF4 is one of them it'll save me 45+ €).

pm mayhems himself I'm sure he'll get you sorted







.


----------



## Kurio

Actually a 280 rad will fit. I have 34 cm with space, and a 280 rad is 33cm. You see?







Will be tight as heck, but works like a charm I hope. Will try with Mayhems for sure. 770 works fine. Had 770 SLi before, so no worry. Great cards, just not worth watercooling.


----------



## Kurio

Well, now with a better camera. As you can tell I am not finished yet tho.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> Actually a 280 rad will fit. I have 34 cm with space, and a 280 rad is 33cm. You see?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be tight as heck, but works like a charm I hope. Will try with Mayhems for sure. 770 works fine. Had 770 SLi before, so no worry. Great cards, just not worth watercooling.


Not worth watercooling Oo ? Clearly we don't share opinions nor budget apperently







.
Oh and my rads are 317x145x55mm so yeah, if you've got 340mm you'll be fine








.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurio*
> 
> You need to remember this is a Arc Midi R1, and R1 doesnt have mounts for a rad in front. Mayhem cant be bought here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second I am like I dont care how the loop looks, I want it cheap hehe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My PSU is way to long for fitting a 240 rad in bottom. Having a 240 rad in front looks silly and there aren't realy mounts for it. And it's always best to have have rads in bottom / top for best flow. I know I could do it like you, but I need cooling, and with this type of choice, I have more place for watercooling. I can actually fit a bigass 280 rad now. And I have to 2X 780 that I am going to watercool there too.


lolz

to people in general
Take care with a 280... , it WILL fit lengthwise @ TOP...but depending on the MB & RAM you have, you'll find that rad thickness can screw you.
A 30 mm + 25 mm fan should always work,
at 45+25 it might be tight (vengance type ram = yes , dominator type ram = fcked),
at 60+25 or 45+38 or 60+38 you need to be very lucky ...
and 80+38 is undoable (besides your rear fan becomes useless as its blocked









An 240 @ 80+38+38 (push+pull) will fit though - you wont be able to see most of your MB, but yeah


----------



## michael-ocn

Do you know the max length rad (in mm) that will fit up top without losing the 5.25" drive bays up there?

I'm wondering if any of these will fit an r2.
http://www.swiftech.com/H2O-x20-Elite.aspx (300mm)
http://www.swiftech.com/H2O-x20-Edge-HD.aspx (325mm)
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/83-kraken-x60-cpu-cooler (313mm)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> lolz
> 
> to people in general
> Take care with a 280... , it WILL fit lengthwise @ TOP...but depending on the MB & RAM you have, you'll find that rad thickness can screw you.
> A 30 mm + 25 mm fan should always work,
> at 45+25 it might be tight (vengance type ram = yes , dominator type ram = fcked),
> at 60+25 or 45+38 or 60+38 you need to be very lucky ...
> and 80+38 is undoable (besides your rear fan becomes useless as its blocked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An 240 @ 80+38+38 (push+pull) will fit though - you wont be able to see most of your MB, but yeah


----------



## Kurio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> lolz
> 
> to people in general
> Take care with a 280... , it WILL fit lengthwise @ TOP...but depending on the MB & RAM you have, you'll find that rad thickness can screw you.
> A 30 mm + 25 mm fan should always work,
> at 45+25 it might be tight (vengance type ram = yes , dominator type ram = fcked),
> at 60+25 or 45+38 or 60+38 you need to be very lucky ...
> and 80+38 is undoable (besides your rear fan becomes useless as its blocked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An 240 @ 80+38+38 (push+pull) will fit though - you wont be able to see most of your MB, but yeah


Well a 360 fits to in R1, you just need 2 holes.

Great thing about this case is that you can use like a 80mm 240 rad no problems with push pull. I have one of the biggest ram sticks out there and have plenty of space. 240 + 280 for 2 gpus and 1 cpu is great.







And I am going to use a 280 in bottom section, not in top.. In top i have a 56mm 240 rad.


----------



## jtBizz

The CPU fan only fit one way. poiting towards the HDD where I thought it would interfere. Luckily not. Pointed up, it was too close to the PSU. Down, and it covers the PCI slot. Originally I tried pointing it backwards but it made it impossible to install the MoBo. I had a small anxiety attack and found the current position.


----------



## Slayerik

hi guys, yesterday mi Arc Midi R2 arrived and I was so excited that managed to put system together in about two hours







I have just one question, I'm going to add RGB Led lights (I have my own homemade controller). I have led strip with 3leds/10cm and it's too intensive to put 60cm (30 in bottom and 30 in top) strip inside (used to have it like that in CM Elite 431 before)... I'm thinking of cutting it into 10cm pieces and put more space between them. So and the question is, should I put them again at top and bottom? Or the other option is to put them onto sidepanel. The point is, when the pc is under the table, bottom part shines straight into anyone who looks into it. I'm looking for any advice








Here are some photos (sidepanel still has plastic foil on it, don't want to scratch it before final setup):


And specs:
Intel i5-2500 (considering upgrade to k version)+ Noctua NH-D14 (only 140mm fan)
ASRock Z77 Extreme6
Kingston 2x4GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 KIT (about to upgrade into something "nicer" soon)
MSI GTX650Ti Boost OC Twin Frozr III
OCZ Silencer MK III 500W + Silverstone Single Sleeve Cables
Samsung SSD830 128GB
Seagate Barracuda 1TB SATA III (thinking of Vibration Killer)
2x Noctua A14 intake (ULNA), 1x Noiseblocker PK1 (700rpm)
and of course Fractal Design Arc Midi R2









I'm not a hardcore gamer and use CAD software quite much for school, often use cpu cooler with fan off (passive cools the cpu quite well), and the quieter the setup gets, the better.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slayerik*
> 
> hi guys, yesterday mi Arc Midi R2 arrived and I was so excited that managed to put system together in about two hours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have just one question, I'm going to add RGB Led lights (I have my own homemade controller). I have led strip with 3leds/10cm and it's too intensive to put 60cm (30 in bottom and 30 in top) strip inside (used to have it like that in CM Elite 431 before)... I'm thinking of cutting it into 10cm pieces and put more space between them. So and the question is, should I put them again at top and bottom? Or the other option is to put them onto sidepanel. The point is, when the pc is under the table, bottom part shines straight into anyone who looks into it. I'm looking for any advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some photos (sidepanel still has plastic foil on it, don't want to scratch it before final setup):
> 
> 
> And specs:
> Intel i5-2500 (considering upgrade to k version)+ Noctua NH-D14 (only 140mm fan)
> ASRock Z77 Extreme6
> Kingston 2x4GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 KIT (about to upgrade into something "nicer" soon)
> MSI GTX650Ti Boost OC Twin Frozr III
> OCZ Silencer MK III 500W + Silverstone Single Sleeve Cables
> Samsung SSD830 128GB
> Seagate Barracuda 1TB SATA III (thinking of Vibration Killer)
> 2x Noctua A14 intake (ULNA), 1x Noiseblocker PK1 (700rpm)
> and of course Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not a hardcore gamer and use CAD software quite much for school, often use cpu cooler with fan off (passive cools the cpu quite well), and the quieter the setup gets, the better.






Nice, you dont need to use ULNA from noctua, as the case has it own 3 fan controller.
As you have a Z77 board, the 3770 would be good. But if you want K series to OC, 3770k.
I have 2x Bitfenix Alchemy 30cm White LED Strip. one is on the bottom and other is on top behind the fans. The smoke side window diffuses much of the light.


----------



## Slayerik

Thanks, I'll consider the Alchemy strips, but they aren't RGB, are they? And they are also a bit more expensive, than ordinary led strip, as they are branded BitFenix.
I still don't know whether to put leds on the bottom and top or on the side panel (there on bottom, right and top of plexi).

Cpu is too distant right now for me (bought the mobo and case, out of money







). Thinking more about the RAM change.

After playing with cables today I plug those fans into the controller, but the problem is that they refuse to start at 5V. I have to start pc with controller at at least 7V setting, then lower it to 5V. But I'm thinking of adding homemade fan controller to the RGB controller, then maybe put it into 5,25" bay and use it to control all fans and leds as well.

Also I played a bit with cables, not a pro work, but it's all hidden


----------



## Darth Scabrous

I put my strip on the front side right next to the intake fans. It lights up the whole case.


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

My friend said that the Define R4 comes so that you can put a 3.5" HDD inside of one of the 5.25" bays. Is that true?

If not, what's the cheapest way to install one in there and have the noise/vibrations reduced?


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsskillsmcgee*
> 
> My friend said that the Define R4 comes so that you can put a 3.5" HDD inside of one of the 5.25" bays. Is that true?
> 
> If not, what's the cheapest way to install one in there and have the noise/vibrations reduced?


I ziptied my WD Green into the 5.25 bay, while it was mounted on the HDD sledge you'd normally mount a HDD on.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsskillsmcgee*
> 
> My friend said that the Define R4 comes so that you can put a 3.5" HDD inside of one of the 5.25" bays. Is that true?
> 
> If not, what's the cheapest way to install one in there and have the noise/vibrations reduced?


http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Mounting-Bracket-Adapter-Metal/dp/B0094D8UGU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375994942&sr=8-3&keywords=5.25+to+3.5


----------



## Dekkers

Hey guys. I really need some advice for cable managing my case. I want it to look really clean.
I was really bummed at how bad the GPU adapter looked when I hooked it up. It is an 8 pin PCI E adapter.
Can anyone recommend some red cables to highlight the case. Which cables would I need, are they called adapters? I'm thinking of taking out the optical drive, don't really need it and it adds more cable.

Any advice would be welcome. It is a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.

Sorry for Cell phone quality and lighting:


----------



## RnRollie

(sleeved) cables should be 13 a dozen nowadays








I think NZXT has a few nice ones - orginally to go with some of theri more awsome cases, but they can be found/ordered (possible even through Amazon) have look at NZXT website


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Question about ventilation in the Define R4. I run a 3570k - 660 Ti (blower style cooler) - 8GB 1600 - 1 HDD. I plan on having 2 front 140mm intakes and a 120mm closed-loop cooler as my rear exhaust. I am wondering if I should add another 140mm top exhaust, or if I should just leave it with the 1 rear exhaust and more silence.


----------



## Dekkers

How do you guys clean the dust filters on the Fractal cases? I have a Midi R2.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dekkers*
> 
> How do you guys clean the dust filters on the Fractal cases? I have a Midi R2.


Either a compressor, canned air, or my favorite is running it under cold/cool water and letting it dry completely before putting it back in.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Do you know the max length rad (in mm) that will fit up top without losing the 5.25" drive bays up there?
> 
> I'm wondering if any of these will fit an r2.
> http://www.swiftech.com/H2O-x20-Elite.aspx (300mm)
> http://www.swiftech.com/H2O-x20-Edge-HD.aspx (325mm)
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/83-kraken-x60-cpu-cooler (313mm)


In theory any 280 will fit, so a 240 also, but the Edge Drive can be a bit awkward for routing tubing, -> needs experimenting if it'll fit with the common chamber in the back or in the front, if common chamber in front, then tube routing might clash with the rear fan. worst case you have to dremel out a bit of the top 5.25 drivebay wall

Unless you got extremely short Optical drives, you'll probably loose the top one.

The top is awkward anyways what with the powerswitch & usb port cables and such.
I've put an extra low rpm intake fan in the top above the 5.25 and have an SSD + the iPower display of my Thortech PSU in the top 5.25 , the blueray in the 2nd 5.25 .
All my fans are intake EXCEPT the rear, which is exhaust at a slight higher RPM as the intakes; case is positive pressure









Thortech PSU picture :


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slayerik*
> 
> Thanks, I'll consider the Alchemy strips, but they aren't RGB, are they? And they are also a bit more expensive, than ordinary led strip, as they are branded BitFenix.
> I still don't know whether to put leds on the bottom and top or on the side panel (there on bottom, right and top of plexi).
> 
> Cpu is too distant right now for me (bought the mobo and case, out of money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Thinking more about the RAM change.
> 
> After playing with cables today I plug those fans into the controller, but the problem is that they refuse to start at 5V. I have to start pc with controller at at least 7V setting, then lower it to 5V. But I'm thinking of adding homemade fan controller to the RGB controller, then maybe put it into 5,25" bay and use it to control all fans and leds as well.
> 
> Also I played a bit with cables, not a pro work, but it's all hidden


RGB strips









http://www.ikea.com/sk/sk/catalog/products/40192361/

http://www.ikea.com/sk/sk/catalog/products/00191735/


----------



## ds84

Try this for LED... similar to Bitfenix Alchemy connect

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-White-LED-Strip-PC-Light-Kits-/281134580178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item8717211015


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

What are the rubber spacer things that come with the R4 supposed to be for?


----------



## RnRollie

either i'm not good at searching or i just overlooked it in the almost 900 pages









But has anyone ever modded their ARC Midi to an inverted MB design?

(I guess i could just try it, but being the lazy git i am, i wanna see if its "much" work







)


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsskillsmcgee*
> 
> What are the rubber spacer things that come with the R4 supposed to be for?


Do you mean the ones for the hard drive racks? If so they are for the anti vibration mounts for the hdds.


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Do you mean the ones for the hard drive racks? If so they are for the anti vibration mounts for the hdds.


Oh. In the reviews I've seen of the case, the HDD trays already have them in. Can you put more in? Or are they just replacements in case you lose them?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsskillsmcgee*
> 
> Oh. In the reviews I've seen of the case, the HDD trays already have them in. Can you put more in? Or are they just replacements in case you lose them?


Yeah, they are already in the trays themselves. Why would you want to put more in though? They really do help with vibration. Just make sure not to over tighten the screws. And what replacements? Each tray has four of them in already. I don't recall getting any extras in the accessory bag..


----------



## Slayerik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> RGB strips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ikea.com/sk/sk/catalog/products/40192361/
> 
> http://www.ikea.com/sk/sk/catalog/products/00191735/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Try this for LED... similar to Bitfenix Alchemy connect
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Premium-White-LED-Strip-PC-Light-Kits-/281134580178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item8717211015


quys I DO have the RGB strips, the ones that you buy how long you want (much cheaper than what you've found







,7€/meter), and I also have my own controller







I'm just not sure where to put them








and I'm becoming quite familiar with idea of using just white leds...


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Why would you want to put more in though?


Extra vibration reducing? I don't know. I haven't even received the case yet, so..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> And what replacements? Each tray has four of them in already. I don't recall getting any extras in the accessory bag..


I saw a review of the case on YT and it had some in it.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

The extra black rubber spacers are for the roof and rear fans. You put them between the fan and the chassis to reduce vibrations.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> The extra black rubber spacers are for the roof and rear fans. You put them between the fan and the chassis to reduce vibrations.


Today I learned something new







.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Glad to help.


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Oh, okay. Awesome.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dekkers*
> 
> Hey guys. I really need some advice for cable managing my case. I want it to look really clean.
> I was really bummed at how bad the GPU adapter looked when I hooked it up. It is an 8 pin PCI E adapter.
> Can anyone recommend some red cables to highlight the case. Which cables would I need, are they called adapters? I'm thinking of taking out the optical drive, don't really need it and it adds more cable.
> 
> Any advice would be welcome. It is a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.
> 
> Sorry for Cell phone quality and lighting:


Pick up some NZXT sleeved extensions.

That's what I have used in all of my builds, looks fairly clean!


----------



## ethanlovespi

I just bought a new video card and some RAM. Now I can't decide if I should take out the top HDD cage on my Define R4.


----------



## Rencyjane

Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini

Rig Name : Hellion
Specs:
Intel Core i5 3570K
Asus Maximus V Gene
8GB Corsair Dominator 2133 CL9 [2x4GB]
Asus GTX 680 DC2 TOP
Silverstone Strider Gold 850W
2x OCZ Agility 3 120GB (RAID 0)
WD Green 1TB (Games)
WD Green 3TB (Storage)
Modded Fractal Arc Mini
EK CSQ Block,Fittings,45deg. Angle Adapters
BlackIce GT Stealth 240 Xflow
XSPC 750 v4
Mayhems Pastel Deep Red
Windows 8 Pro With Media Center

Enjoy


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini


This looks awesome! Love the front panel and psu cover especially.

What fan controller is in the 3.5" drive bay? Been looking for something like that for one of my rigs.

Sweet system man


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethanlovespi*
> 
> I just bought a new video card and some RAM. Now I can't decide if I should take out the top HDD cage on my Define R4.


I would.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini


Awesome!


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ethanlovespi*
> 
> I just bought a new video card and some RAM. Now I can't decide if I should take out the top HDD cage on my Define R4.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You should definitively remove it, more airflow toward your GPU








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Specs!
> 
> 
> 
> Rig Name : Hellion
> Specs:
> Intel Core i5 3570K
> Asus Maximus V Gene
> 8GB Corsair Dominator 2133 CL9 [2x4GB]
> Asus GTX 680 DC2 TOP
> Silverstone Strider Gold 850W
> 2x OCZ Agility 3 120GB (RAID 0)
> WD Green 1TB (Games)
> WD Green 3TB (Storage)
> Modded Fractal Arc Mini
> EK CSQ Block,Fittings,45deg. Angle Adapters
> BlackIce GT Stealth 240 Xflow
> XSPC 750 v4
> Mayhems Pastel Deep Red
> Windows 8 Pro With Media Center
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pictures!


Looks gorgeous ! That mod in the front is just great


----------



## PointJpeg

Hey everyone,

I'm going to get a Arc Midi R2 (here's my config : http://www.ldlc.com/b-ad9cf216f2a55ce5.html french website but prices in euro).

Should I get fan replacements ? I'm tempted by either 3 (or 4 with twin packs?) AF120 Quiet Editions (they're pretty cheap as well) or 3 AF140 Quiet Editions or even cheaper 3 or 4 Cougar CF-T14S ?

Are any of these options worth it over the stock fans which according to Hardware.fr are not that good (http://www.hardware.fr/medias/photos_news/00/40/IMG0040249.png compared to be-quiet Shadow Wings i think).

Also what would be the best fan arrangement for my config, I doubt 1 intake out of 3 fans is optimal, so should I go for either 1 intake in the front, 1 at the bottom, 1 outtake at the top / bottom ? What improvement would get from 4 fans vs 3 ?

Thanks









EDIT : Btw, I'll remove the top HDD bay, and will get a Samsung SSD on amazon (coz cheaper







). Also, all the fans are going to run at 7V using the built-in fan controller (and I have some left-over Noctua LNA adapters just in case).


----------



## gdubc

Any US customers looking to get the arc mid r2; Microcenter has them on sale for $59.99 this weekend.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini
> 
> Rig Name : Hellion
> Specs:
> Intel Core i5 3570K
> Asus Maximus V Gene
> 8GB Corsair Dominator 2133 CL9 [2x4GB]
> Asus GTX 680 DC2 TOP
> Silverstone Strider Gold 850W
> 2x OCZ Agility 3 120GB (RAID 0)
> WD Green 1TB (Games)
> WD Green 3TB (Storage)
> Modded Fractal Arc Mini
> EK CSQ Block,Fittings,45deg. Angle Adapters
> BlackIce GT Stealth 240 Xflow
> XSPC 750 v4
> Mayhems Pastel Deep Red
> Windows 8 Pro With Media Center
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


nice







i'm planning on watercooling in the arc mini r2 myself, and that res is so gorgeous that i might have to use a 240 instead of 360 in the top... and i love the bottom cover


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PointJpeg*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I'm going to get a Arc Midi R2 (here's my config : http://www.ldlc.com/b-ad9cf216f2a55ce5.html french website but prices in euro).
> 
> Should I get fan replacements ? I'm tempted by either 3 (or 4 with twin packs?) AF120 Quiet Editions (they're pretty cheap as well) or 3 AF140 Quiet Editions or even cheaper 3 or 4 Cougar CF-T14S ?
> 
> Are any of these options worth it over the stock fans which according to Hardware.fr are not that good (http://www.hardware.fr/medias/photos_news/00/40/IMG0040249.png compared to be-quiet Shadow Wings i think).
> 
> Also what would be the best fan arrangement for my config, I doubt 1 intake out of 3 fans is optimal, so should I go for either 1 intake in the front, 1 at the bottom, 1 outtake at the top / bottom ? What improvement would get from 4 fans vs 3 ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT : Btw, I'll remove the top HDD bay, and will get a Samsung SSD on amazon (coz cheaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Also, all the fans are going to run at 7V using the built-in fan controller (and I have some left-over Noctua LNA adapters just in case).


The quiet editions AF140 is not better than stock fans. Stick with 140mm if you can for all the fans.
Front/Bottom Intake, rear exhaust, top intake or exhaust.
The fan controller only has room for 3 fans. At 12v the stock fans are decently quiet.
I would look at Modular PSU if you plan to use the bottom fan.


----------



## PointJpeg

Are you sure about the fact that AF140s are not better than silent series R2 ? This chart by hardware.fr seems to prove the contrary. AF140 (http://www.hardware.fr/medias/photos_news/00/40/IMG0040245.png)
vs FD Silent Series (http://www.hardware.fr/medias/photos_news/00/40/IMG0040249.png)

Edit: As I also said I have some noctua LNA around for a 4th fan if needed. (7V)
And the LDLC PSU is a OEM version of the G550 from Seasonic, just 25euros cheaper







:


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini
> 
> Rig Name : Hellion
> Specs:
> Intel Core i5 3570K
> Asus Maximus V Gene
> 8GB Corsair Dominator 2133 CL9 [2x4GB]
> Asus GTX 680 DC2 TOP
> Silverstone Strider Gold 850W
> 2x OCZ Agility 3 120GB (RAID 0)
> WD Green 1TB (Games)
> WD Green 3TB (Storage)
> Modded Fractal Arc Mini
> EK CSQ Block,Fittings,45deg. Angle Adapters
> BlackIce GT Stealth 240 Xflow
> XSPC 750 v4
> Mayhems Pastel Deep Red
> Windows 8 Pro With Media Center
> 
> Enjoy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now that looks BEAST!!!







What did you use to replace the front panel grill?


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Now that looks BEAST!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What did you use to replace the front panel grill?


It really is. I just looked at those pics again for like 10 minutes straight lol. I wish it was mine!


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Rig Name : Hellion
> Specs:
> Intel Core i5 3570K
> Asus Maximus V Gene
> 8GB Corsair Dominator 2133 CL9 [2x4GB]
> Asus GTX 680 DC2 TOP
> Silverstone Strider Gold 850W
> 2x OCZ Agility 3 120GB (RAID 0)
> WD Green 1TB (Games)
> WD Green 3TB (Storage)
> Modded Fractal Arc Mini
> EK CSQ Block,Fittings,45deg. Angle Adapters
> BlackIce GT Stealth 240 Xflow
> XSPC 750 v4
> Mayhems Pastel Deep Red
> Windows 8 Pro With Media Center
> 
> Enjoy


Now I'm suddenly dying to get a PSU cover, but what would be the most cost efficient way to make one?
Doesnt need to be fancy with lights and all that, just a cover







.


----------



## ZeVo

I'm with you Hawxie. I really want a PSU cover now.

Rency, are those HDD's in some type of enclosure or what? They look really cool in your second picture. Amazing build you have there. I'm jealous.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Now I'm suddenly dying to get a PSU cover, but what would be the most cost efficient way to make one?
> Doesnt need to be fancy with lights and all that, just a cover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


a thin aluminiumplate and a can of spraypaint would work if you're able to bend it yourself


----------



## mshaddix

Picked up a Arc Mini today!

My P8Z77-I Deluxe looks so tiny in there!


----------



## Rencyjane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Now I'm suddenly dying to get a PSU cover, but what would be the most cost efficient way to make one?
> Doesnt need to be fancy with lights and all that, just a cover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I'm with you Hawxie. I really want a PSU cover now.
> 
> Rency, are those HDD's in some type of enclosure or what? They look really cool in your second picture. Amazing build you have there. I'm jealous.


All materials used in this mod consist of just acrylic sheet that was laser cutted and a can of flat black spray paint. And by the the HDD Cover is just made from a thick paper folder cutted and painted


----------



## Rencyjane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Now I'm suddenly dying to get a PSU cover, but what would be the most cost efficient way to make one?
> Doesnt need to be fancy with lights and all that, just a cover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I'm with you Hawxie. I really want a PSU cover now.
> 
> Rency, are those HDD's in some type of enclosure or what? They look really cool in your second picture. Amazing build you have there. I'm jealous.


All materials used in this mod consist of just acrylic sheet that was laser cutted and a can of flat black spray paint. And by the the HDD Cover is just made from a thick paper folder cutted and painted


----------



## ZeVo

Sweet, thanks for explaining. Interesting idea about the HDD covers.


----------



## Angully

Hey i just recently got my first new system ever









Define R3 [Best looking case on the market imo!!
Asus z87-K
Intel i5 4670K
16Gb 1600mhz DDR3
Evga GTX 650

I plan on overclocking to 4.6+ with the h100i [Already bought it] if the chip i have is any good. Im currently getting 65-70 Degrees on the stock cooler with the turbo running at 4.2 and only the stock fans in the case.

I was just curios if anyone has done any case modding to fit a H100I?

Here is my plan.

1.Cut a block size hole in the top vents and also slightly to the front to allow the tubes to pass through I will use the washer things from the back of the case to make it look nice and clean.

2.Feed my block through the hole and fit my pull fans on the inside of the case.

3. Mount the radiator on the outside [The standard 120 fan mounting holes wont fit so i will likely have to bore out some new ones or use the meshing of the case to achieve a strong mount.

4,Install a pull system on top of the radiator and create a nice fascia to cover the radiator and fans [this part is going to be the difficult bit imo]

5.Block the rear outlet with the outlet covers supplied by fractal

5..Install another 120 fan at the front of the case also a 140 at the base of the case.

Just a few questions

1. Will the Push/Pull System be enough cooling to justify blocking the back outlet on the case? (i thought it would result in better airflow through the radiator)
2. Will creating a Fascia around the sides of the radiator reduce the effectiveness of the radiator?

Thanks in advance for any replies


----------



## Adrenaline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> Hi guys i just wanted to share my very own Fractal Arc Mini


Dude that looks amazing!


----------



## Anoxy

HOT DAMN! Rencyjane, that is the sexiest Arc Midi I've ever seen.


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Question about ventilation in the Define R4. I run a 3570k - 660 Ti (blower style cooler) - 8GB 1600 - 1 HDD. I plan on having 2 front 140mm intakes and a 120mm closed-loop cooler as my rear exhaust. Should I add a 140mm top exhaust, or no?


----------



## michael-ocn

^^^ I think there's no need for an extra fan on top. None of your big heat producers are dumping any heat in the case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsskillsmcgee*
> 
> Question about ventilation in the Define R4. I run a 3570k - 660 Ti (blower style cooler) - 8GB 1600 - 1 HDD. I plan on having 2 front 140mm intakes and a 120mm closed-loop cooler as my rear exhaust. Should I add a 140mm top exhaust, or no?


You want to make sure the top HDD cage is removed to allow airflow from the front.


----------



## MME1122

I had the same setup in my R4, I added too exhaust and it helped tremendously. However I have a 670 dc2t, which dumps hot air into the case.
Try opening the top vents to see if temps improve a little. If they do adding fans well probably help more.


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

I was thinking it would cool off my RAM little bit. I don't even know if it needs to be cooled off though.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rencyjane*
> 
> All materials used in this mod consist of just acrylic sheet that was laser cutted and a can of flat black spray paint. And by the the HDD Cover is just made from a thick paper folder cutted and painted


Oh right, thanks for the explanation







.


----------



## b4db0y

Any idea when the Arc Mini R2 is coming out?

I heard them say sometime around August but they are being awfully quiet now.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Any idea when the Arc Mini R2 is coming out?
> 
> I heard them say sometime around August but they are being awfully quiet now.


It's been available in Sweden for a month


----------



## b4db0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> It's been available in Sweden for a month


----------



## Mopar63

Dang it I want my Arc Mini, does not show up soon I might have to buy a Corsair.


----------



## Analog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Any idea when the Arc Mini R2 is coming out?
> 
> I heard them say sometime around August but they are being awfully quiet now.
> 
> 
> 
> It's been available in Sweden for a month
Click to expand...

I can easily get my hands on one as well. Haha.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> It's been available in Sweden for a month


what? link please? neither norwegian or swedish komplett have it in stock, and they're usually one of the first stores to get such...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Analog*
> 
> I can easily get my hands on one as well. Haha.


HOW?! that's unfair


----------



## dusters16

It has been here the in US for awhile now. Yesterday, Microcenter had it for $65 USD, i refresh the page today and its now $60 USD. That is like half the original price from the release date. time to pull the trigger!

http://www.microcenter.com/product/414591/Arc_Midi_R2_Mid-Tower_ATX_Computer_Case


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> It has been here the in US for awhile now. Yesterday, Microcenter had it for $65 USD, i refresh the page today and its now $60 USD. That is like half the original price from the release date. time to pull the trigger!
> 
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/414591/Arc_Midi_R2_Mid-Tower_ATX_Computer_Case


Wrong case. Arc Mini R2


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> what? link please? neither norwegian or swedish komplett have it in stock, and they're usually one of the first stores to get such...
> HOW?! that's unfair


http://www.webhallen.com/se-sv/hardvara/179367-fractal_design_arc_mini_r2-svart

EDIT, lol nvm, not in stock


----------



## Analog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> It's been available in Sweden for a month
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what? link please? neither norwegian or swedish komplett have it in stock, and they're usually one of the first stores to get such...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Analog*
> 
> I can easily get my hands on one as well. Haha.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> HOW?! that's unfair
Click to expand...

Turns out if was wrongfully labeled.
Because of people saying it wasn't available yet I decided to contact the shop and ask if it was actually a Mini and not a Midi got a response saying the title was wrong and they gave me a discount code for the trouble, lol.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Wrong case. Arc Mini R2


I just bought the midi r2, on the box they sku'd it wrong and wanted to charge $98 after tax. ***. Got a manager to help out and they fixed it.


----------



## toyz72

i'm still waiting on the ups man to deliver the rest of my new fans for my midi r2. i ordered a total of 5 noctua 140 mm flx fans.....

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608034

i'll be pairing them up on my adjust 108 fan controller


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I have just purchased a second Asus GTX 670 DCU II and now I'm thinking that I really need to get some decent fans for my R4.

I have used the Corsair AF140 fans in the past but wasn't that amazed by them (still have 2).

At the moment I have 5 of the stock fans and they are quiet but don't move much air and some of them are quite clicky which is very annoying.

I was looking at getting the Phobya Nano-G 14 Silent Waterproof 1000rpm 140mm Fan but when I read reviews people said that it was quite load when placed on a grill or radiator.

Is anyone here running these in their R4?

I can get them for just over £5 each so they're fairly cheap.

Thanks.


----------



## Slayerik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have just purchased a second Asus GTX 670 DCU II and now I'm thinking that I really need to get some decent fans for my R4.
> 
> I have used the Corsair AF140 fans in the past but wasn't that amazed by them (still have 2).
> 
> At the moment I have 5 of the stock fans and they are quiet but don't move much air and some of them are quite clicky which is very annoying.
> 
> I was looking at getting the Phobya Nano-G 14 Silent Waterproof 1000rpm 140mm Fan but when I read reviews people said that it was quite load when placed on a grill or radiator.
> 
> Is anyone here running these in their R4?
> 
> I can get them for just over £5 each so they're fairly cheap.
> 
> Thanks.


what about some noctua, noiseblocker or nanoxia? or even be quiet!, all of them are silent when regulated








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i'm still waiting on the ups man to deliver the rest of my new fans for my midi r2. i ordered a total of 5 noctua 140 mm flx fans.....
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608034
> 
> i'll be pairing them up on my adjust 108 fan controller


just be careful, they don't start at 5V (lowest fractal integrated controller can get), they need more...


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

edit; Got the side panel off after pulling super hard on it. It won't go back on smoothly at all and it won't come back off smoothly. God damn it.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slayerik*
> 
> what about some noctua, noiseblocker or nanoxia? or even be quiet!, all of them are silent when regulated


I don't like Noctuas and haven't thought about the other three.

I have just ordered a Corsair H100i and an additional AF140 to go in the rear.

I'll see how I go with these and if they're naff then I'll look into alternatives.

Thanks though


----------



## jhaze84

Finally decided that my Arc Midi R2 is share-worthy. Next up, PSU sleeving?? I need to keep myself busy while I try to not spend money on upgrading the main components.














To make room for the reservoir I put my WD Black HDD up in the 5.25" bay below my DVD drive:



However it is suffering from some heat issues up there. It got up to 49C last night with 78F ambient, which is within operating spec but still seems too high to me. I am used to my HDDs being in the 35-40 range. I ordered this to help but I don't think it will do much. I don't want to mess with installing additional fans up there if I can help it. Does anyone think swapping the position of the HDD and DVD drives, or removing the DVD drive entirely, would also help it stay cooler? If I can't get it to stay around 40C in the drive bay, I am considering bringing back the bottom HDD cage, which would kill the aesthetic I'm going for. But I don't want to cripple the drive's lifespan either.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I don't like Noctuas and haven't thought about the other three.:


Except for being ugly and expensive, whats not to like?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> However it is suffering from some heat issues up there. It got up to 49C last night with 78F ambient, which is within operating spec but still seems too high to me. I am used to my HDDs being in the 35-40 range. I ordered this to help but I don't think it will do much. I don't want to mess with installing additional fans up there if I can help it. Does anyone think swapping the position of the HDD and DVD drives, or removing the DVD drive entirely, would also help it stay cooler? If I can't get it to stay around 40C in the drive bay, I am considering bringing back the bottom HDD cage, which would kill the aesthetic I'm going for. But I don't want to cripple the drive's lifespan either.


Same question I have man. I decided to install the bottom HDD cage back in, but I want to take it back out!







I really do think it kills aesthetics too. I remember Sp33dy recommending this before:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073

Hell, I might just get it. It does help cool the HDD and even has a nice design in the front that would be kind of close to my Midi R1 panel.


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Same question I have man. I decided to install the bottom HDD cage back in, but I want to take it back out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really do think it kills aesthetics too. I remember Sp33dy recommending this before:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073
> 
> Hell, I might just get it. It does help cool the HDD and even has a nice design in the front that would be kind of close to my Midi R1 panel.


Oh wow I haven't seen that before, it looks nice. I've been looking at single-bay cooling solutions and they all looked like junk. I might end up getting this if the Akasa heatsinks don't help much. Thanks for posting it!


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> Oh wow I haven't seen that before, it looks nice. I've been looking at single-bay cooling solutions and they all looked like junk. I might end up getting this if the Akasa heatsinks don't help much. Thanks for posting it!


No problem. Very nice rig you have. Don't install the HDD cages though! It looks awesome the way it is now.


----------



## MrSharkington

Hi everyone, I'm thinking of swapping my prodigy build into a define mini, but in order of doing so i'd need to take the bottom hdd cage out. I was wondering what size drillbit i would need in order to drill out the rivets? thanks


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrSharkington*
> 
> Hi everyone, I'm thinking of swapping my prodigy build into a define mini, but in order of doing so i'd need to take the bottom hdd cage out. I was wondering what size drillbit i would need in order to drill out the rivets? thanks


1/8" drill bit is what I used on my Midi. Worked perfectly.


----------



## MiwaPi

I emailed the folks at Fractal not too long ago. They mentioned that the Arc Mini R2 should be available sometime mid-September in the US.


----------



## steelkevin

Reminds me I recieved my Midi R2 with scratches already on the window... I've got no lighting in there so it doesn't really bother me all that much for the moment.
Would it be too late to tell Fractal's support service about it ? I guess that I should've done it right away.

Is their RMA / support service any good anyway ? I know NZXT's was incredible and modder friendly. They would've no doubt sended a new window to replace mine (just the window, not the whole pannel).


----------



## andyv

From my experience they are decent. I had a faulty fan controller (massive difference from the case window though) and they sent out a new one after I supplied them with the POP and SN. Didn't have to send proof the old one was destroyed (I had to with Antec). Took about 2 weeks to arrive in Australia from Europe.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> From my experience they are decent. I had a faulty fan controller (massive difference from the case window though) and they sent out a new one after I supplied them with the POP and SN. Didn't have to send proof the old one was destroyed (I had to with Antec). Took about 2 weeks to arrive in Australia from Europe.


Funny you'd say that. My experience with NZXT's support service was about a faulty fan controller too. Same story, they only asked for the invoice and shipped a new one right away without asking for any proof. The stock 200mm fan from my Phantom was clicking and they also sent a new one with the fan controller.

I haven't really looked at how the windows is mounted to the side pannel on the Midi R2, maybe it wouldn't be possible to replace it without having to send out a entire new side pannel in which case I'd totally understand if they refused. If it was just mesh and not a window it'd be easy but here I'm really not sure, I'll check in a second.

Oh and isn't there a Fractal Design rep on OCN







?


----------



## XSHollywood

My plastic front panel on my Midi R2 arrived scratched. I'd like to know if they'd replace as well. Gonna send an email to Fractal and will report what they say.


----------



## steelkevin

I've got nothing to do for a good 4 hours so I guess I'll do that too.
EDIT: done

Oh and by the way ! I remember a lot of people wondering how solid the top of the Midi R2 was as opposed to the first Midi. I have a massive EK XTC 280mm rad up there and the top is sort of pulled down, bent, convex or whatever word you lot were using back then.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jhaze84*
> 
> Oh wow I haven't seen that before, it looks nice. I've been looking at single-bay cooling solutions and they all looked like junk. I might end up getting this if the Akasa heatsinks don't help much. Thanks for posting it!


Thats a dual bay gizmo using a 80mm fan , while it probably looks good on an ARC Midi, it is not a silent solution.
But if you dont mind a bit of whooosh, then ok.


----------



## Angully

After 2 days of testing with different fan positioning and running benchmarks i can say with a h100i externally mounted with a push pull system (push inside case) that having all case fans as intakes and blocking the rear exhaust and water cooling ports is the optimum to reduce temperature.
I am only using the stock Corsair fans as Push all of the other fans are Fractal 120mm Silent Series R2's


----------



## ZeVo

FD's customer service is amazing. I got two new front panels from them. The one I received had scratches, so I asked them for a new one and was sent out to me in two days. The other one I got recently was because of my own stupidity. I told them I would pay for the item and shipping since my case was out of warranty, but they still sent me a new one, free of charge. And that's when they honestly became my favorite company.


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Thats a dual bay gizmo using a 80mm fan , while it probably looks good on an ARC Midi, it is not a silent solution.
> But if you dont mind a bit of whooosh, then ok.


Yeah adding an 80mm fan is not ideal, but the unit does look like it would fit the aesthetic of the Midi pretty well. Plus I am a sucker for easily accessible dust filters. And this one has nearly universal positive reviews on Newegg and Amazon, which I can't say for any of the other HDD bay coolers I've looked it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> FD's customer service is amazing. I got two new front panels from them. The one I received had scratches, so I asked them for a new one and was sent out to me in two days. The other one I got recently was because of my own stupidity. I told them I would pay for the item and shipping since my case was out of warranty, but they still sent me a new one, free of charge. And that's when they honestly became my favorite company.


I also have had a good experience with them. My case came with a couple faulty parts (fan and front panel audio), and I had replacements to my door less than a week after contacting their support. Will definitely be buying more FD cases in the future.


----------



## gdubc

I have one of those i used for a whole in my sons c70. I liked it and its quite handy. You could always replace the fan as well if you wanted to. I eventually needed the slot space for a fan controller and the nzxt hue though. I plan on using it in a HTPC build next.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> FD's customer service is amazing. I got two new front panels from them. The one I received had scratches, so I asked them for a new one and was sent out to me in two days. The other one I got recently was because of my own stupidity. I told them I would pay for the item and shipping since my case was out of warranty, but they still sent me a new one, free of charge. And that's when they honestly became my favorite company.


Thanks a lot for that








+Rep.

I guess I'll just have to wait for their email asking for the invoice and wait for the pannel to be on its way







.

Btw, my front audio isn't working either, only found that out two days ago but I may not have plugged the Audio on the motherboard after getting a new one and even if I have, I can use other audio ports so it doesn't really matter.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Got most of my rig together today. Just waiting on the H100i and the additional GTX 670.

False wall should be done by the end of the week and I'm working on a psu cover. Pics to follow.


----------



## Angully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Got most of my rig together today. Just waiting on the H100i and the additional GTX 670.
> 
> False wall should be done by the end of the week and I'm working on a psu cover. Pics to follow.


What case are you using?


----------



## ZeVo

I really want to do a false wall and PSU cover.. but I have no idea how to get started on making them, or what tools I need.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Angully*
> 
> What case are you using?


R4 mate.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I really want to do a false wall and PSU cover.. but I have no idea how to get started on making them, or what tools I need.


I'm using correx sheeting. Only need a good knife to cut through and it's really cheap.


----------



## Lukas026

sharing some bad quality pics of my RIG:

back side (yeah its messy):



front view (I know my cable managment sucks







):



now my ASUS GTX 690 arrives on Friday and than I will make some good photos !


----------



## sendjes

I have the Define Mini, and I'm thinking of buying the R4, but what I'd like to now is, how much space is there in the R4 for cable management behind the motherboard tray?, as the Mini kinda lacks of space there imho.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sendjes*
> 
> I have the Define Mini, and I'm thinking of buying the R4, but what I'd like to now is, how much space is there in the R4 for cable management behind the motherboard tray?, as the Mini kinda lacks of space there imho.


There is plenty of room (about an inch) for cable management.


----------



## sendjes

Sweet, thanks for the reply.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sendjes*
> 
> Sweet, thanks for the reply.


No worries.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> sharing some bad quality pics of my RIG:
> 
> back side (yeah its messy):
> 
> 
> 
> front view (I know my cable managment sucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ):
> 
> 
> 
> now my ASUS GTX 690 arrives on Friday and than I will make some good photos !


Nice looking rig. I always love all Noctua fans in a case.


----------



## Anoxy

For the people that remove the HDD cage, do you just not have any HDD drives or do you put them in the media bays?


----------



## jhaze84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> For the people that remove the HDD cage, do you just not have any HDD drives or do you put them in the media bays?


I think it's a combination of both. I have a single HDD in one of my 5.25 bays. But they got hot up there with no active airflow, which I am working on a solution for.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> For the people that remove the HDD cage, do you just not have any HDD drives or do you put them in the media bays?


SSD's for the win, they can mount pretty much anywhere...


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> SSD's for the win, they can mount pretty much anywhere...


Yeah, I use SSDs for my OS/home folders, but I assume most people don't use them for data storage, considering their price to GB ratio is way more expensive than HDDs. I like that removing that bottom cage probably increases airflow to my GPUs, but I wouldn't know where to put my two 1TB drives.


----------



## Turt1e

Does the stock H220 rad fit in the front of the Midi R2?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> For the people that remove the HDD cage, do you just not have any HDD drives or do you put them in the media bays?


My 1TB HDD is in one of the optical drive bays (using adapters)
My SSD's are propped up on the back of the case.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I use SSDs for my OS/home folders, but I assume most people don't use them for data storage, considering their price to GB ratio is way more expensive than HDDs. I like that removing that bottom cage probably increases airflow to my GPUs, but I wouldn't know where to put my two 1TB drives.


Get creative bro.
Just throw them into the 5,25 bay, get a Skythe Humiro or skrew them somewhere.









This is where I store my games:


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> get a Skythe Humiro


Does it really keep HDD's cool enough?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Get creative bro.
> Just throw them into the 5,25 bay, get a Skythe Humiro or skrew them somewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is where I store my games:


If it's stupid but it works, it isn't stupid.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I use SSDs for my OS/home folders, but I assume most people don't use them for data storage, considering their price to GB ratio is way more expensive than HDDs. I like that removing that bottom cage probably increases airflow to my GPUs, but I wouldn't know where to put my two 1TB drives.


Understood, I have found that when I stop having the mentality of a hoarder when it comes to my personal PC that 240 gig becomes a lot of space.


----------



## Anoxy

I'm pretty much the opposite of a hoarder. I really don't use any of that 2TB of space. Especially since I joined Spotify Premium and don't download music anymore. Movies and games still take up a good bit of space though.

So much stuff is in the cloud these days, I could probably just remove the drives altogether.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm pretty much the opposite of a hoarder. I really don't use any of that 2TB of space. Especially since I joined Spotify Premium and don't download music anymore. Movies and games still take up a good bit of space though.
> 
> So much stuff is in the cloud these days, I could probably just remove the drives altogether.


I'm running a 60GB Kingston SSD, and I always have about 10GB free. Everything I wanna watch is online via Netflix or another. And you can just listen to whatever music you want through YouTube. I guess I am one of them "neat freaks" too, because I don't keep anything on my PC that I don't need. Just the essentials and games, everything else is streamed.


----------



## Anoxy

Oh god, I would never listen to music through youtube, the sound quality is atrocious...but I'm an audiophile. And Netflix streaming is pretty worthless...mostly just old stuff.

But this is the Fractal thread, sorry to de-rail. Back on topic.


----------



## Eseuldor

I only have two SSD's in my rig. A 180gb Intel I got dirt dirt dirt cheap (fairly sure they were just clearing inventory) from Newegg's last Black Friday for OS/Programs and w/e and a 500gb 840 I bought off a friend who needless to offload some stuff which replaced a 64gb 830 which I now use for my Steam/Origin etc games.

For actual storage I switched to using a Media Server and a NAS some time ago. I just think it's more efficient, to a point, to have a separate box or boxes out of sight and out of mind for actual storage. Added benefit, the server is a frankenstein rig built using all old parts which means I only needed to pay for the actual drives to stuff in it. Well fans too. I was surprised how much heat that many HDD's would put out.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Scan have let me down again. They're not getting their shipment of GTX 670s this week so I've cancelled my order.

Luckily Overclockers have so I'll be getting it tomorrow.

My molex extension arrived today along with a replacement reset switch so I'll be sleeving them later and hopefully have it all up and running minus the 2nd gpu tonight.

I've spent a good 4 hours on cable management and it's looking pretty sweet, just need to install the front panel and connect the cables and I'm good to go.


----------



## Anoxy

Damn, I wish I had friends who offloaded 500GB SSDs to me...


----------



## Norse

As of tomorrow i will be in this club with a Define XL R2


----------



## Norse

Double post


----------



## steelkevin

Twice







?

Anyway, Fractal Design's customer support answered two days ago (so less than 24 hours after I contacted them) and immediately offered to send an entire replacement pannel for free. All I had to do was fill in a form, send it back. He did ask for pictures but it's quite hard to take a decent shot of a reflective surface. Sent the form back with the best shot I could get.
So, great customer support although I wish they'd have a rep on OCN


----------



## Eseuldor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Damn, I wish I had friends who offloaded 500GB SSDs to me...


Well, in his case it was more that he needed to offload some stuff cause he and wife split up and he needed money to move to a new place.

And since were in the Fractal forum anyone with the Node 304 can say if it fits an H55 AIO comfortably? I am planning on putting together a Steambox using some parts I have and if I can get the H55 in there without any trouble that would be awesome.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eseuldor*
> 
> Well, in his case it was more that he needed to offload some stuff cause he and wife split up and he needed money to move to a new place.
> 
> And since were in the Fractal forum anyone with the Node 304 can say if it fits an H55 AIO comfortably? I am planning on putting together a Steambox using some parts I have and if I can get the H55 in there without any trouble that would be awesome.


H55 is just a slim line 120mm AiO, will fit fine.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Got my 2nd GTX 670, installed it and then couldn't find any SLI cables. Ordered a new one so no SLI until then


----------



## Anoxy

SLI bridges usually come with your mobo


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Got my 2nd GTX 670, installed it and then couldn't find any SLI cables. Ordered a new one so no SLI until then


It's a conspiracy.


----------



## CaCP3RO

Graphic card ?
I think I will buy XFX HD 6570 passive .


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> SLI bridges usually come with your mobo


Yeah I know but I can't remember where I put the damn thing.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Yeah I know but I can't remember where I put the damn thing.


you'll find it, about 10 minutes after you've received your new one


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you'll find it, about 10 minutes after you've received your new one


Yeah probably


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you'll find it, about 10 minutes after you've received your new one


Always like that, personaly what I do is put all the boxes and all the papers related to my build in the case's box, that way, you never lose anything


----------



## Norse

got my Define XL R2 today, lovely case and i really like the fact the unused fan vents are blocked until you remove the plate! stops dust getting into the system (see pic 4) also the cat approves of the case


----------



## XSHollywood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Got my 2nd GTX 670, installed it and then couldn't find any SLI cables. Ordered a new one so no SLI until then


I was about to say I'd send you one. Then I saw you lived over THERE...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XSHollywood*
> 
> I was about to say I'd send you one. Then I saw you lived over THERE...


Haha. Thanks anyway.

Oh yeah forgot to upload a pic of my rig.



Excuse the terrible picture.

The false wall still isn't finished, need to trim around the grommets to get it to sit flush.

Got a Corsair SP120 PE and a PCI fan mount coming so that should keep those 670's a little bit cooler.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Haha. Thanks anyway.
> 
> Oh yeah forgot to upload a pic of my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the terrible picture.
> 
> The false wall still isn't finished, need to trim around the grommets to get it to sit flush.
> 
> Got a Corsair SP120 PE and a PCI fan mount coming so that should keep those 670's a little bit cooler.


Clean looking rig. Really nice. Where did you mount your HDD by the way?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Clean looking rig. Really nice. Where did you mount your HDD by the way?


Thanks. I have 2 SSDs screwed in behind the motherboard and a 1tb HDD in an Icy Box.


----------



## hotrod9011

» Processor :: Intel i5 2500k @ 4.2GHz
» CPU Cooler :: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo
» Motherboard :: ASRock P67 Pro3 SE
» Memory :: Corsair Vengeance 8GB
» Graphic Card :: EVGA GTX 560 Ti DS SC 1GB
» Hard Drive :: Hitachi 1TB SATA-III
» Power Supply :: Corsair TX850M
» Computer Case :: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2


----------



## SclerosiS

Thinking of going with a evo 212, because the whine of the cpu stock cooler is awful.Cant stand it anymore. What you guys will suggest as a replacement of its fan.Corsair SP's in push/pull or something else.Im not going to OC, just want to decrease noise.


----------



## Nexo

I love the plain looks on these cases.


----------



## Nexo

I love the plain looks on these cases.


----------



## Nexo

I love the plain looks on these cases.


----------



## Nexo

I love the plain looks on these cases.


----------



## Nexo

I love the plain looks on these cases. Dang 5 post in one click?


----------



## michael-ocn

Looks like it might be challenge to keep those two closely stacked gpus cool. I'd be interested in knowing how it works out when you're all up and running.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Haha. Thanks anyway.
> 
> Oh yeah forgot to upload a pic of my rig.
> 
> 
> 
> Excuse the terrible picture.
> 
> The false wall still isn't finished, need to trim around the grommets to get it to sit flush.
> 
> Got a Corsair SP120 PE and a PCI fan mount coming so that should keep those 670's a little bit cooler.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> Looks like it might be challenge to keep those two closely stacked gpus cool. I'd be interested in knowing how it works out when you're all up and running.


Running Heaven 4.0 without the SLI cable wields a max temp of 88 degrees for the top GPU but that is with the fan running at 50% so it should be lower if I crank up the % and add an SP120 PE.

My SLI cable should be here on Tuesday so I'll try it without the fan first and when it turns up I'll post results.

If it is too much of a pain to keep them cool then I'll just buy an ATX motherboard.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Thinking of going with a evo 212, because the whine of the cpu stock cooler is awful.Cant stand it anymore. What you guys will suggest as a replacement of its fan.Corsair SP's in push/pull or something else.Im not going to OC, just want to decrease noise.


For the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and 2 Corsair SP fans being around $60, why not just get something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608043


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> For the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and 2 Corsair SP fans being around $60, why not just get something like this:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608043


or even this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181030


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Running Heaven 4.0 without the SLI cable wields a max temp of 88 degrees for the top GPU but that is with the fan running at 50% so it should be lower if I crank up the % and add an SP120 PE.
> 
> My SLI cable should be here on Tuesday so I'll try it without the fan first and when it turns up I'll post results.
> 
> If it is too much of a pain to keep them cool then I'll just buy an ATX motherboard.


The stock fan settings are silly, running at only 50% at 88c, what are they thinking







I think gigabyte might make an mATX board with wider sli slot spacing, somebody said the sniper m5 uses slots 1 and 4 for sli. Definitely something to look out for with mATX boards if you're planning to do SLI.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The stock fan settings are silly, running at only 50% at 88c, what are they thinking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think gigabyte might make an mATX board with wider sli slot spacing, somebody said the sniper m5 uses slots 1 and 4 for sli. Definitely something to look out for with mATX boards if you're planning to do SLI.


Yeah the stock fan settings are terrible. I wasn't planning on SLI but for the price I couldn't resist.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> The stock fan settings are silly, running at only 50% at 88c, what are they thinking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think gigabyte might make an mATX board with wider sli slot spacing, somebody said the sniper m5 uses slots 1 and 4 for sli. Definitely something to look out for with mATX boards if you're planning to do SLI.


I was in the same boat. Got a Z77 Sniper 3 board with decent spacing, temps dropped like mad.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I was in the same boat. Got a Z77 Sniper 3 board with decent spacing, temps dropped like mad.


Good to hear that it makes a difference. I think your rig looks awesome










Do you not use USB 2 or 3 and audio? Noticed that the ports aren't there in that pic.

Now I want a bigger motherboard. Got to stop coming on here. Lol.


----------



## SclerosiS

For the moment im a bit limited in terms of money, dont want to spend more than 30 Euros for cooler.Later on will change its fans.Here all is a bit overpriced. H60 is 70 Euros, The Noctua is not available anywhere, or when it is it will be the same price.


----------



## nitroxyl

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to OCN.

I just bought an R4 and I'm just wondering what is the optimal airflow configuration for the R4?
I'm planning on using the 2 stocks fans. 1 in the back pushing air out of the case and moving the one in the front to the higher slot pulling air in. Also I'm buying 2 of the same 140mm fans to push air out the top of the case, and just covering the bottom fan hole with one of the moduvent sound dampeners. I'll be connecting the front, and top 2 fans to the case's fan controller.

Specs:
Mobo: MSI H87M-G43 mATX
CPU: i5-4670k (Planning to overclock to 4.2GHz)
Cooler: Zalman CNPS9900 MAX Red
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB
PSU: Cougar RS 650W

I'm saving up to get a 79xx series GPU soon.
Would my airflow be good enough for my setup?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm pretty new to OCN.
> 
> I just bought an R4 and I'm just wondering what is the optimal airflow configuration for the R4?
> I'm planning on using the 2 stocks fans. 1 in the back pushing air out of the case and moving the one in the front to the higher slot pulling air in. Also I'm buying 2 of the same 140mm fans to push air out the top of the case, and just covering the bottom fan hole with one of the moduvent sound dampeners. I'll be connecting the front, and top 2 fans to the case's fan controller.
> 
> Specs:
> Mobo: MSI H87M-G43 mATX
> CPU: i5-4670k (Planning to overclock to 4.2GHz)
> Cooler: Zalman CNPS9900 MAX Red
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB
> PSU: Cougar RS 650W
> 
> I'm saving up to get a 79xx series GPU soon.
> Would my airflow be good enough for my setup?


Welcome to OCN

I dont mean to be rude or anything so dont take it that way

I just wanted to let you know that PSU you got there lacks a EMI fliter so its pumping out electromagnetic interference in your case


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Welcome to OCN
> 
> I dont mean to be rude or anything so dont take it that way
> 
> I just wanted to let you know that PSU you got there lacks a EMI fliter so its pumping out electromagnetic interference in your case


Nah I'm not offended by any way, thank you for the heads up though! I bought it at a clearance sale without reading too much into the reviews. Guess we know why eh? haha

*Edit*
Could you link me to a source for your findings?


----------



## RnRollie

PSU reviews, only one address: http://www.jonnyguru.com/


----------



## steelkevin

@all Midi R2 owners:

Run your dust filters under a tap to clean them. Using an anti dust cloth and my fingers, both dust filters seemed clean but I ran them under the tap and there was A LOT of dust.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> For the moment im a bit limited in terms of money, dont want to spend more than 30 Euros for cooler.Later on will change its fans.Here all is a bit overpriced. H60 is 70 Euros, The Noctua is not available anywhere, or when it is it will be the same price.


There's the GELID tranquilo r2 , but its not the best performer € 30-40

better save the money and run on the stock included cooler for a few weeks , then get something decent, like Prolimatech or Noctua
H60 is a waste of time , if you want to go that route, go H100 or Kraken


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Nah I'm not offended by any way, thank you for the heads up though! I bought it at a clearance sale without reading too much into the reviews. Guess we know why eh? haha
> 
> *Edit*
> Could you link me to a source for your findings?


I found a chinese review that i translated but all along there was one from hardwaresecrets

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cougar-RS-650-W-Power-Supply-Review/1323

OMG this unit is terrible no EMI filter cant do its rated wattage cant work in temps above 25c

All the good things you get from a dirt cheap HEC made PSU


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Good to hear that it makes a difference. I think your rig looks awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you not use USB 2 or 3 and audio? Noticed that the ports aren't there in that pic.
> 
> Now I want a bigger motherboard. Got to stop coming on here. Lol.


I almost never use any front ports, so I just removed the cables to make it a bit cleaner.


----------



## Mopar63

For those that do not know, Newegg has some great rpcies right now for SFF cases from Fractal.

Core 1000 is down to $35

Node 304 is down to $50

Arc Mini is down to $70.

These are IMHO the best buys on the market right now for a SFF build.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> For those that do not know, Newegg has some great rpcies right now for SFF cases from Fractal.
> 
> Core 1000 is down to $35
> 
> Node 304 is down to $50
> 
> Arc Mini is down to $70.
> 
> These are IMHO the best buys on the market right now for a SFF build.


If the Mini is that low I think they might be getting Mini R2 stock soon.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> If the Mini is that low I think they might be getting Mini R2 stock soon.


I hope so, I have a build I am waiting for that case to use. I was about to give up hope and use a Corsair 350D.


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm pretty new to OCN.
> 
> I just bought an R4 and I'm just wondering what is the optimal airflow configuration for the R4?
> I'm planning on using the 2 stocks fans. 1 in the back pushing air out of the case and moving the one in the front to the higher slot pulling air in. Also I'm buying 2 of the same 140mm fans to push air out the top of the case, and just covering the bottom fan hole with one of the moduvent sound dampeners. I'll be connecting the front, and top 2 fans to the case's fan controller.
> 
> Specs:
> Mobo: MSI H87M-G43 mATX
> CPU: i5-4670k (Planning to overclock to 4.2GHz)
> Cooler: Zalman CNPS9900 MAX Red
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB
> PSU: Cougar RS 650W
> 
> I'm saving up to get a 79xx series GPU soon.
> Would my airflow be good enough for my setup?


I think you would get better temps with 2 intakes and 2 exhausts.


----------



## nitroxyl

Thanks! I'll see what I can come up with. This case is awesome!


----------



## steelkevin

After 4 hours of testing split in two sessions of 2 hours each with an idle time of about on hour in between I have results on the impact of the Arc Midi's dust filters.
You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).
The filters were cleaned and absolutely dust free.
The ambient temp remained between 25.9°C and 26.6°C throughout the entire testing.

*Without dust filters:*
-HWMonitor: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
-RealTemp: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
-HWiNFO64: 65° | 64° | 62° | 64°

*With dust filters:*
-HWMonitor: 71° | 70° | 66° | 70°
-RealTemp: 71° | 70° | 66° | 71°
-HWiNFO64: 70° | 70° | 67° | 71°

*Conclusion:* the use of the Arc Midi R2's stock Dust Filters increase CPU temperature by 5-7°C.

These results may vary depending on your setup. I have a front 280mm rad in push/pull pulling out into the case through the front dust filter and another 280mm in push pushing the air out through the top dust filter.


----------



## Kurio

Ya, got some shiet today.

Tommorrow mah 2x 780s will arrive so cool







Bitspower y u so shiny.


----------



## Saliciouscrumbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> After 4 hours of testing split in two sessions of 2 hours each with an idle time of about on hour in between I have results on the impact of the Arc Midi's dust filters.
> You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).
> The filters were cleaned and absolutely dust free.
> The ambient temp remained between 25.9°C and 26.6°C throughout the entire testing.
> 
> *Without dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -RealTemp: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -HWiNFO64: 65° | 64° | 62° | 64°
> 
> *With dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 71° | 70° | 66° | 70°
> -RealTemp: 71° | 70° | 66° | 71°
> -HWiNFO64: 70° | 70° | 67° | 71°
> 
> *Conclusion:* the use of the Arc Midi R2's stock Dust Filters increase CPU temperature by 5-7°C.
> 
> These results may vary depending on your setup. I have a front 280mm rad in push/pull pulling out into the case through the front dust filter and another 280mm in push pushing the air out through the top dust filter.


Interesting. Was that with both the top and front dust filter off?

I'm building a computer with the Arc Midi R2 and been having trouble deciding on which fans to buy because of the dust filters. First I bought two Corsair AF 140 mm to use for top exhaust. But once I got the case and looked at the dust filters, which do look quite airflow impeding, I returned those and got two Corsair SP120 mm. The static pressure needed to blow through those filters has to be pretty high, right?

I'm kind of disappointed in Fractal Design for not letting use remove the top dust filter (without removing the entire top panel). It's not like we are going to get tons of dust into exhaust fans. Even if they, for some reason, had to include dust filter, why use such restricting ones for primarily exhaust fans?

I like silent cases, but I like airflow better. Has anyone use tweezers to remove the dust filter covering the top exhaust fans?


----------



## Mopar63

These numbers seem a bit drastic.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saliciouscrumbs*
> 
> Interesting. Was that with both the top and front dust filter off?
> 
> I'm building a computer with the Arc Midi R2 and been having trouble deciding on which fans to buy because of the dust filters. First I bought two Corsair AF 140 mm to use for top exhaust. But once I got the case and looked at the dust filters, which do look quite airflow impeding, I returned those and got two Corsair SP120 mm. The static pressure needed to blow through those filters has to be pretty high, right?
> 
> I'm kind of disappointed in Fractal Design for not letting use remove the top dust filter (without removing the entire top panel). It's not like we are going to get tons of dust into exhaust fans. Even if they, for some reason, had to include dust filter, why use such restricting ones for primarily exhaust fans?


Both







.

And you can remove the dust filters without removing the entire pannels or mesh. The top dust filter I'm pretty sure I could just pull out easily. The front one may require more strength and may not just come off in one single piece. To remove them all you have to do is bend the little piece of mesh that are bent over the plastic which will allow you to seperate the plastic frame and mesh and then you can just remove the dust filter. It might be glued on to the plastic frame but I doubt it, it doesn't feel like it is.

By the way, since the top rad is exhausting I think my results would've been the same without removing the top pannel / dust filter or leaving it on throughout the entire testing. I wouldn't remove it anyway because while your fans may be exhausting and preventing air from falling in once your computer is powered off nothing's stopping it from just raining down. The front dust filter is a different story though, without the dust filter, dust would be pulled inside the case and / or rad but when the computer is off it wouldn't. I'll see what I decide once I get a watercooled GPU in there







.

Removing the dust filters would have an aestetical impact too. Whether positive or not is up to personnal preference. The dust filters being so thick, black, etc... stops you from seeing through the mesh. Removing them would mean you'd see the case chassis and if we're talking about the front filter, your front fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> These numbers seem a bit drastic.


Well there wouldn't be much point in posting them if they weren't. I would've either said nothing or posted that the Midi R2's dust filters had barely any impact on temperatures.
Believe whatever you want, you don't have to take my word or results for fact. You can do your own testing if you wish too but I benefit in no way from sharing those findings with people I don't know nor will ever meet.


----------



## Saliciouscrumbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> And you can remove the dust filters without removing the entire pannels or mesh. The top dust filter I'm pretty sure I could just pull out easily. The front one may require more strength and may not just come off in one single piece. To remove them all you have to do is bend the little piece of mesh that are bent over the plastic which will allow you to seperate the plastic frame and mesh and then you can just remove the dust filter. It might be glued on to the plastic frame but I doubt it, it doesn't feel like it is.
> 
> By the way, since the top rad is exhausting I think my results would've been the same without removing the top pannel / dust filter or leaving it on throughout the entire testing. I wouldn't remove it anyway because while your fans may be exhausting and preventing air from falling in once your computer is powered off nothing's stopping it from just raining down. The front dust filter is a different story though, without the dust filter, dust would be pulled inside the case and / or rad but when the computer is off it wouldn't. I'll see what I decide once I get a watercooled GPU in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ugh, I hate dust, I would never in a million years not use dust filter for the front. I've seen some pictures or heard people comment that there are white circles of dust in the front after awhile. Just think of the dust that would be in the case without the filters. No, front filters are needed, what I'm a little bit against are the top filters since they are less important. Besides, I think they should/could have just used less restricting filters if they had to use filters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Removing the dust filters would have an aestetical impact too. Whether positive or not is up to personnal preference. The dust filters being so thick, black, etc... stops you from seeing through the mesh. Removing them would mean you'd see the case chassis and if we're talking about the front filter, your front fans.


Removing the top filters would be less of an impact than the front since my case is going to sit on my desk, I doubt I would see into the case, unless I'm standing right next to it and looking down. I'm not going to remove anything though, not yet, not until I've tested my temps. I got myself a 770 with an aftermarket cooler that's going to blow it's hot air inside the case. Hope my temps wont be too bad, in spite of the filters.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Believe whatever you want, you don't have to take my word or results for fact. You can do your own testing if you wish too but I benefit in no way from sharing those findings with people I don't know nor will ever meet.


Sorry not doubting you, just looking at this and thinking WOW.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saliciouscrumbs*
> 
> Interesting. Was that with both the top and front dust filter off?
> 
> I'm building a computer with the Arc Midi R2 and been having trouble deciding on which fans to buy because of the dust filters. First I bought two Corsair AF 140 mm to use for top exhaust. But once I got the case and looked at the dust filters, which do look quite airflow impeding, I returned those and got two Corsair SP120 mm. The static pressure needed to blow through those filters has to be pretty high, right?
> 
> I'm kind of disappointed in Fractal Design for not letting use remove the top dust filter (without removing the entire top panel). It's not like we are going to get tons of dust into exhaust fans. Even if they, for some reason, had to include dust filter, why use such restricting ones for primarily exhaust fans?
> 
> I like silent cases, but I like airflow better. Has anyone use tweezers to remove the dust filter covering the top exhaust fans?


hey bud...just remove the top panel and bend the taps back...then remove the metal screen. the filter is under it.

i did this to my arc mini and plan on doing it to my r2. i just cut a piece of black project board to fill the gap that is left from removing the filter. you'll see what i mean when you remove the filter. hope that helps you out.

i have a post with some pictures on here where i made my own fan filters to. theres pictures and all....but you'll have to find that one on your own









here it is....
http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/920


----------



## Norse

My server build so far, PSU is arriving tomorrow

Even with a huge case E-ATX mobo's make it look small


----------



## jhaze84

So a few pages back there was a discussion about keeping hard drives in the 5.25" drive bays. I just solved my own puzzle involving this, so I thought I'd share. I wanted to keep a HDD that runs hot (WD Black) in one of the 5.25" bays with acceptable temperatures (40 C or less). I wanted to do this without sacrificing my DVD burner, and without resorting to one of those cheap-looking bay cooling contraptions with loud tiny fans.

First I bought one of these Akasa HDD adapters, and shoved the HDD in the bay underneath my DVD burner. I was alarmed to see that the drive easily reached 49 C in its new home. This wasn't acceptable to me, so I next tried these Akasa HDD heatsinks instead. That gave a small improvement, dropping the temperature down to 45 C, but that still wasn't good enough. So I started contemplating either buying a bay cooler, getting rid of my DVD drive to give the HDD more room to breathe, or even giving up and reinstalling the bottom hard drive cage.







:

Then it dawned on me: There is a perfectly good fan mount above the drive cages!









I had a couple of the stock fans that came with my Arc Midi R2 laying around, so I used one of those. It fits very well next to the upper radiator with a couple mm to spare.



Looks like there will be plenty of space!



Hard drive is back in the Akasa HDD adapter.



With both the DVD burner and HDD installed, there is about 1/2 inch clearance between the fan and the hard drive.



Nothing's perfect! The PSU connector and the radiator are too close for comfort. I had to force the PSU connector down slightly and it seems to be okay.



The end result: Better than I could have hoped! The hard drive is now topping out at a frosty 32 C. And at 7 volts, the new fan adds no noise to my system.

As a bonus, since the topic was recently on dust filters, I figured I would take a picture of the "white circle" effect that shows up on the filters. I personally love the thick mesh filters. Sure they block some air flow, but look at all that dust that is kept out of my case! The top dust filter is probably my favorite feature of the Arc Midi R2. I don't know of any other case that puts filters on the top. I'm a fan of positive pressure so I now have 5 intake fans (4 on rads), and they are all filtered.


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm pretty new to OCN.
> 
> I just bought an R4 and I'm just wondering what is the optimal airflow configuration for the R4?
> I'm planning on using the 2 stocks fans. 1 in the back pushing air out of the case and moving the one in the front to the higher slot pulling air in. Also I'm buying 2 of the same 140mm fans to push air out the top of the case, and just covering the bottom fan hole with one of the moduvent sound dampeners. I'll be connecting the front, and top 2 fans to the case's fan controller.
> 
> Specs:
> Mobo: MSI H87M-G43 mATX
> CPU: i5-4670k (Planning to overclock to 4.2GHz)
> Cooler: Zalman CNPS9900 MAX Red
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB
> HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB
> PSU: Cougar RS 650W
> 
> I'm saving up to get a 79xx series GPU soon.
> Would my airflow be good enough for my setup?


You won't be able to do any overclocking on an H87 motherboard.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> I hope so, I have a build I am waiting for that case to use. I was about to give up hope and use a Corsair 350D.


Can't go wrong with a 350D either









I feel like I'm cheating on Fractal ATM... Hehe.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Can't go wrong with a 350D either
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I'm cheating on Fractal ATM... Hehe.


I know it would get the job done but to me the 350D is ugly compared to the Arc Mini


----------



## rob47ww

I love my Define R4! I've had it for a month or two now but have only just finished my build. It's the one in my signature if you wanted to look at the pictures of it.


----------



## Lshuman

My PC is finally complete. Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## Lukas026

just one updated but good quality photo of my RIG:


----------



## Slayerik

So this looks like my final upgrade for quite long. I figured out the LEDs, and like it. I added Vibration Killer, chaged outtake from Noiseblocker PK-1 to E-Loop (it look better).
With fans at 5V from case regulator it's completely quiet. At 7V you can hear the air fans keep pushing.









more photos:


http://imgur.com/a


----------



## Anoxy

The leds look pretty nice. Which ones did you use?


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slayerik*
> 
> So this looks like my final upgrade for quite long. I figured out the LEDs, and like it. I added Vibration Killer, chaged outtake from Noiseblocker PK-1 to E-Loop (it look better).
> With fans at 5V from case regulator it's completely quiet. At 7V you can hear the air fans keep pushing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more photos:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a


Sexy!!!!


----------



## ZeVo

Very nice rigs. Really like the lighting.


----------



## GTR Mclaren

Question Midi R2 users

In some videos it looks to me like the front dust filter is like foam or something like that...

it is foam ?? and if it is...it is hard to clean and remove ??


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slayerik*
> 
> So this looks like my final upgrade for quite long. I figured out the LEDs, and like it. I added Vibration Killer, chaged outtake from Noiseblocker PK-1 to E-Loop (it look better).
> With fans at 5V from case regulator it's completely quiet. At 7V you can hear the air fans keep pushing.


If you only have one drive, remove the bottom HDD cage and put the ssd in the ODD bay. That way you increase the airflow inside the case.
You can also remove the plastic mount under the optical bay and on the lower cage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTR Mclaren*
> 
> Question Midi R2 users
> 
> In some videos it looks to me like the front dust filter is like foam or something like that...
> 
> it is foam ?? and if it is...it is hard to clean and remove ??


It foam, so it should be washable.
i just use a vacuum.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTR Mclaren*
> 
> Question Midi R2 users
> 
> In some videos it looks to me like the front dust filter is like foam or something like that...
> 
> it is foam ?? and if it is...it is hard to clean and remove ??


It is made of foam and it's about 1/8" thick. The best way to clean it (imo) is to run it under some water and let it air dry. The filter is somewhat restrictive, but it does a really good job collecting dust. It's the best dust filter I've ever used


----------



## Slayerik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The leds look pretty nice. Which ones did you use?


it's a 12V strip, from a tiny shop in a shopping center, 3 leds/5cm, lower brightness... I'll add photo after work...
they are very easy to use, you just need to make your own connector...
I also have 2 meters of them with even lower brightness behind monitor, I use them at night, no need to use old noisy neon light (dorm room)...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTR Mclaren*
> 
> Question Midi R2 users
> 
> In some videos it looks to me like the front dust filter is like foam or something like that...
> 
> it is foam ?? and if it is...it is hard to clean and remove ??


yep it's something like a foam... it's easy to clean if you use something like compressed air (in can) or compressor, but you can also wash it with water and let it dry...
I've never tried removing it, but check pages before, there have been guys replacing it with something less restricting...
I like it stock, because pc is in dust heavy room, and it just does its job








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you only have one drive, remove the bottom HDD cage and put the ssd in the ODD bay. That way you increase the airflow inside the case.
> You can also remove the plastic mount under the optical bay and on the lower cage.


I have 3,5" hdd in 5,25" place, I have thought of removing that cage totally, but it'd look wierd with nothing in there







so I decided to leave SSD there...
I don't have any temperature issues (idle under 40°C on everything), so no need to removing because of that...
that plastic mount has normal screws? where? I put my pc under the desk and don't want to rip it apart again


----------



## serafim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> After 4 hours of testing split in two sessions of 2 hours each with an idle time of about on hour in between I have results on the impact of the Arc Midi's dust filters.
> You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).
> The filters were cleaned and absolutely dust free.
> The ambient temp remained between 25.9°C and 26.6°C throughout the entire testing.
> 
> *Without dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -RealTemp: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -HWiNFO64: 65° | 64° | 62° | 64°
> 
> *With dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 71° | 70° | 66° | 70°
> -RealTemp: 71° | 70° | 66° | 71°
> -HWiNFO64: 70° | 70° | 67° | 71°
> 
> *Conclusion:* the use of the Arc Midi R2's stock Dust Filters increase CPU temperature by 5-7°C.
> 
> These results may vary depending on your setup. I have a front 280mm rad in push/pull pulling out into the case through the front dust filter and another 280mm in push pushing the air out through the top dust filter.


Sir, would you mind run a test with the front filter but without the top filter?

I already have a watercooling parts except the case, Arc midi r2 would available next month, my loop plan is 240 front intake, 120 bottom intake and 240 on top as exhaust, and my plan to add default front filters and bottom + additional filter like this or this , I consider it because I live in very dusty area, what do you think? is it necessary? with your post im so worried about the rising temperature of my pc


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serafim*
> 
> Sir, would you mind run a test with the front filter but without the top filter?
> 
> I already have a watercooling parts except the case, Arc midi r2 would available next month, my loop plan is 240 front intake, 120 bottom intake and 240 on top as exhaust, and my plan to add default front filters and bottom + additional filter like this or this , I consider it because I live in very dusty area, what do you think? is it necessary? with your post im so worried about the rising temperature of my pc


I could do that tomorrow if you really want me to but I really don't think removing only the top one would make any difference at all.
My top 280 rad (people save yourself all the trouble and just consider the Arc Midi R2 not compatible with top 280mm rads unless you want a slim one) is exhausting. Which means that it's taking the air from inside the case and pushing it through the rad. Which means that air goes through the dust filter after having cooled the rad. If my top rad was intaking as I originally planned it would most likely matter but as it is (and as yours will be) it really wouldn't change much at all.

I'd also like to add that all my fans are running on the lowest possible setting (5V on the stock fan controller), if you run your fans faster the impact of the dust filter would probably not be as big (but I'm just guessing here).
I've got an i7-860 CPU which is a hot CPU, mine is a bad chip that overclock's poorly and generates quite the amount of heat. It's currently overclocked to 3.8GHz (which is my daily stable overclock, I'm still trying to reach the 4GHz barrier but I'm not quite there yet).
Those temperatures are Max Temps reached during 2 hours of Maximum Xtreme mode IBT. So obviously, unless you fold all day long or mine, those values won't be reached. With the dust filters and around the same ambient as in the testing BF3 after hours won't heat the CPU above 60°C and is around 55° Max.
While running IBT, my GPU is idle which isn't the case while playing BF3, with its fan running pretty fast it sits around 80°C (a bit over actually) and that heat goes right through the top rad.

All that to say that if I were you I wouldn't worry, even if you're going to be folding / mining all day long.

I'm really sorry that my testing and results got you worried







.


----------



## serafim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I could do that tomorrow if you really want me to but I really don't think removing only the top one would make any difference at all.
> My top 280 rad (people save yourself all the trouble and just consider the Arc Midi R2 not compatible with top 280mm rads unless you want a slim one) is exhausting. Which means that it's taking the air from inside the case and pushing it through the rad. Which means that air goes through the dust filter after having cooled the rad. If my top rad was intaking as I originally planned it would most likely matter but as it is (and as yours will be) it really wouldn't change much at all.
> 
> I'd also like to add that all my fans are running on the lowest possible setting (5V on the stock fan controller), if you run your fans faster the impact of the dust filter would probably not be as big (but I'm just guessing here).
> I've got an i7-860 CPU which is a hot CPU, mine is a bad chip that overclock's poorly and generates quite the amount of heat. It's currently overclocked to 3.8GHz (which is my daily stable overclock, I'm still trying to reach the 4GHz barrier but I'm not quite there yet).
> Those temperatures are Max Temps reached during 2 hours of Maximum Xtreme mode IBT. So obviously, unless you fold all day long or mine, those values won't be reached. With the dust filters and around the same ambient as in the testing BF3 after hours won't heat the CPU above 60°C and is around 55° Max.
> While running IBT, my GPU is idle which isn't the case while playing BF3, with its fan running pretty fast it sits around 80°C (a bit over actually) and that heat goes right through the top rad.
> 
> All that to say that if I were you I wouldn't worry, even if you're going to be folding / mining all day long.
> 
> I'm really sorry that my testing and results got you worried
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Another reason I want to use additional filters is because I use a fairly strong fan for all radiators except the exhaust, Delta AFB1212SH with 3400 RPM 113 CFM and 11 mmH20 static preasure and I will run it at full speed, the results of the test you just surprised me, I did not expect that fan filter can raise the temperature so high, I want to get the temperature of my pc as low as possible with minimal dust, maybe you could also include a test with the top radiator as an intake but using a filter, it would be very helpful


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serafim*
> 
> Another reason I want to use additional filters is because I use a fairly strong fan for all radiators except the exhaust, Delta AFB1212SH with 3400 RPM 113 CFM and 11 mmH20 static preasure and I will run it at full speed, the results of the test you just surprised me, I did not expect that fan filter can raise the temperature so high, I want to get the temperature of my pc as low as possible with minimal dust, maybe you could also include a test with the top radiator as an intake but using a filter, it would be very helpful


Wow ! I would never be able to tolerate such high speed fans, especially if water cooling







.

Unfortunately, I can't have the top radiator fans set up that way (as I said in my previous post, if you can avoid using 280mm rads up top, do so) for many reasons:
-the rear fan is already squashed and not screwed in, if the fans were above the radiator it would be impossible to have a rear fan.
-one out of two of the radiator's 1/4 threads would be completely blocked by the reservoir and the rad wouldn't be usable.
-the rad would put too much pressure on the ram and it could damage the ram slots and/or ram.
-the tube that goes from my rop rad to my front one would be totally kinked and would block or seriously hinder water flow
etc...

If I were you I'd be more worried about headaches than the impact the dust filters could have on your temps ^^.


----------



## serafim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wow ! I would never be able to tolerate such high speed fans, especially if water cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Unfortunately, I can't have the top radiator fans set up that way (as I said in my previous post, if you can avoid using 280mm rads up top, do so) for many reasons:
> -the rear fan is already squashed and not screwed in, if the fans were above the radiator it would be impossible to have a rear fan.
> -one out of two of the radiator's 1/4 threads would be completely blocked by the reservoir and the rad wouldn't be usable.
> -the rad would put too much pressure on the ram and it could damage the ram slots and/or ram.
> -the tube that goes from my rop rad to my front one would be totally kinked and would block or seriously hinder water flow
> etc...
> 
> If I were you I'd be more worried about headaches than the impact the dust filters could have on your temps ^^.


I've tried the fan, and I think I can deal with it


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

I have the R4 and I moved the bottom hard drive cage over to the middle position and now my case is making this HUMMMMM sound. When I pick the front end of the case up, it stops. I put 4 rubber washers between the cage and the case when I installed it. Anyone know why it's doing this? I'm about to remove it and take out the rubber washers after I post this.


----------



## Mopar63

If you are going to remove the foam filters, you do still have a way to filter, Demciflex makes a full set for the Arc Midi. It is a fine mesh, not foam, so it does not impede air flow like the foam does.


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsskillsmcgee*
> 
> I have the R4 and I moved the bottom hard drive cage over to the middle position and now my case is making this HUMMMMM sound. When I pick the front end of the case up, it stops. I put 4 rubber washers between the cage and the case when I installed it. Anyone know why it's doing this? I'm about to remove it and take out the rubber washers after I post this.


Okay I removed them and it made no difference. I think I'm going to do the bungee cord mod one day.


----------



## serafim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> If you are going to remove the foam filters, you do still have a way to filter, Demciflex makes a full set for the Arc Midi. It is a fine mesh, not foam, so it does not impede air flow like the foam does.


im not going to remove the stock foam filters, even I will add to it an another additional filter after the stock filter, but I will consider it again because of poor test results, thanks to steelkevin


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> just one updated but good quality photo of my RIG:


Noctua 4 life







.


----------



## stnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> If you are going to remove the foam filters, you do still have a way to filter, Demciflex makes a full set for the Arc Midi. It is a fine mesh, not foam, so it does not impede air flow like the foam does.


Too bad it is almost as expensive as the case when it is on special..


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> You won't be able to do any overclocking on an H87 motherboard.


Oh my... Thanks so much for pointing that out! I must have misread the item when I bought it ha! Anyways, I managed to get a refund for a Z87M-G41 board. Cheers


----------



## Mysticode

Just putting together my R4 right now, and I can't for the life of me find the LED light for the front panel. Does it come pre-installed?

Derp, I already had it plugged into the power LED connector. Forgot it doesn't come with two LED connectors, just one that you can use for HDD or Power.


----------



## steelkevin

Still waiting on my new side pannel from customer support but in the meantime while I was working on my rig I found out why the front audio wasn't working. It was plugged in to the motherboard. It wasn't plugged into the front of the case though ^^.


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> just one updated but good quality photo of my RIG:


Hey, I have a similar build I'm working on today. Could you tell me what your ambient, idle, and load temps are? I've been trying to find an optimal airflow configuration.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I have same build in my Midi r2. Bottom HDD cage is installed.
Top/Bottom/Front 140mm Intake and rear 140mm exhaust.


----------



## Mysticode

Guys, just need some airflow advice here with my R4.

Intake: 2x 140mm Gelid Silent (front)
Exhaust: 2x 120mm Corsair SP120 (top, in h100i), 1x Fractal R2 Silent fan (back), Corsair 760 PSU (mounted in intake position, to pull air from the case and exhaust out the back).

I am worried I will be created a negative airflow with this configuration, thoughts?


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Guys, just need some airflow advice here with my R4.
> 
> Intake: 2x 140mm Gelid Silent (front)
> Exhaust: 2x 120mm Corsair SP120 (top, in h100i), 1x Fractal R2 Silent fan (back), Corsair 760 PSU (mounted in intake position, to pull air from the case and exhaust out the back).
> 
> I am worried I will be created a negative airflow with this configuration, thoughts?


You could use the other Fractal fan that was given to you on the bottom to intake as well. But I wouldn't know because I haven't finished configuring mine yet. I'll report back!


----------



## Mysticode

I thought of that last night, but looking at the PSU I don't think it would work with all the cables come out of it, even with my PSU being modular. Could try to fit it in, but it would be a super tight fit - worries some of the PSU cables might hit the fan.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> I thought of that last night, but looking at the PSU I don't think it would work with all the cables come out of it, even with my PSU being modular. Could try to fit it in, but it would be a super tight fit - worries some of the PSU cables might hit the fan.


What PSU do you have?


----------



## nitroxyl

The thing with having your PSU grabbing air from inside the case, it'll conflict with your GPU's intake. It'll definitely not be a good setup if you have 2+ graphics cards cause there won't be any clearance for fresh air to be taken in. 1 card should be fine though.

*Edit*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What PSU do you have?


He has the Corsair AX760


----------



## Mysticode

Yep, AX760 from Corsair, fan only turns on when really under a lot of power consumption (hybrid switch).

I am using a single ASUS 760 SC Version, CUII cooling so the two fans are intaking the air. I put my PSU in the orientation to help suck hot air away from the graphics card, might not be the best bet in my setup though?


----------



## oshu

Here's my plan when i receive my Arc Midi R2:


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Here's my plan when i receive my Arc Midi R2:


I think the front fans sould blow in not out and the top fans out not in

Also the bottom fan sould blow in not out


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I think the front fans sould blow in not out and the top fans out not in


I dont want the hot radiator air inside my case. Also, I dont want my radiators to be filled with dust.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Also the bottom fan sould blow in not out


Why? I believe it will help the air go from top to bottom and an intake near the floor equals ****load of dust.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> I dont want the hot radiator air inside my case. Also, I dont want my radiators to be filled with dust.
> Why? I believe it will help the air go from top to bottom and an intake near the floor equals ****load of dust.


Hot air goes up its physics


----------



## steelkevin

100% with shilka on this one.

If you've never seen people put their fans the way you intend to you should trust that it's for a good reason.
I think you really worry too much about dust too.

Using three 120mm radiators is also an odd choice considering two 240mm radiators would be easier to set up, less restrictive, about the same price if not even cheaper and wouldn't hide your motherboard so much.
Is that going to be a GPU only loop ? Do you have plans for pump / res placement ?


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> 100% with shilka on this one.
> 
> If you've never seen people put their fans the way you intend to you should trust that it's for a good reason.
> I think you really worry too much about dust too.
> 
> Using three 120mm radiators is also an odd choice considering two 240mm radiators would be easier to set up, less restrictive, about the same price if not even cheaper and wouldn't hide your motherboard so much.
> Is that going to be a GPU only loop ? Do you have plans for pump / res placement ?


Those radiators come from three "CLC's".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Hot air goes up its physics


The point of this airflow would be to not have hot air inside the case.

Even if there would be any air inside the case which is a few degrees hotter than the ambient temps, the speed/power of the convective heat transfer is very weak compared to three ~1100 rpm fans.

But don't get me wrong, I posted this in here to get criticism.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Here's my plan when i receive my Arc Midi R2:


You should consider mounting all of your radiators at the top and back of the case exhausting all of the hot air. And use the front two fans and bottom fan for cool air intake. We all know hot air rises, and I understand your concept that since most of the heat is being fed to radiators and blown out of the case. That sucking in cool air from the top could flush the case with cool air. Tho I am not sure how effective that is going to be, considering regardless of your CPU and GPU(s) being waterblocked. They are still going to put off heat at the source. So you should expect to still have a bit of heat accumulation in your case. You could also keep the same setup that you have in the diagram. The only thing I would change is make the bottom fan pull in cool air to feed the front radiators. And move the rear radiator to the top, and have the rear fan sucking in to feed that radiator with cool air. Then have all of the other top fans exhausting any potential hot air accumulating in the case. Tho I think putting all of the radiators at the top and exhausting the hot air is the best solution. Cool air in, hot air out.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> You should consider mounting all of your radiators at the top and back of the case exhausting all of the hot air. And use the front two fans and bottom fan for cool air intake. We all know hot air rises, and I understand your concept that since most of the heat is being fed to radiators and blown out of the case. That sucking in cool air from the top could flush the case with cool air. Tho I am not sure how effective that is going to be, considering regardless of your CPU and GPU(s) being waterblocked. They are still going to put off heat at the source. So you should expect to still have a bit of heat accumulation in your case. You could also keep the same setup that you have in the diagram. The only thing I would change is make the bottom fan pull in cool air to feed the front radiators. And move the rear radiator to the top, and have the rear fan sucking in to feed that radiator with cool air. Then have all of the other top fans exhausting any potential hot air accumulating in the case. Tho I think putting all of the radiators at the top and exhausting the hot air is the best solution. Cool air in, hot air out.


Thank you, great ideas!

My concept might very well fail completely, but I have to try first.









Here's my current setup in a Define R3: (which gets a little too hot, imo)



Note: The length of the CLC tubing is a restriction (330mm). Bottom GPU won't reach the top of the case...


----------



## Mysticode

So... I shouldn't be worried about negative airflow?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Here's my plan when i receive my Arc Midi R2:


That is bad. Why go with 120mm fans, when you can use 140mm.
The fan in the front top, is inside the OD bay, and not needed.
Same goes for the bottom 140mm fan, should be better off as intake.
Front might have issues with spacing, as you want to run 2x 120mm rad? What kind of cooling you doing?
As the front fans are side by side, so no clearance in between.

As for rads pushing air out from the front, that is not a problem. Been done many times with little or no issues in temps or performance.
Having top as intake is more than fine.


----------



## Moragg

I've just ordered an Arc Midi R2, should arrive sometime next week. Also got a Hyper 212 EVO for the CPU.

Since everything is aircooled, what would be you recommended setups? I don't plan on buying any other fans, but if they would massively improve temps I might.

I was going to remove the top HDD cage and move the top exhaust to the middle and make it an intake, but otherwise I've not got a clue. the case itself was stretching my budget, so don't want to go overboard buying big fans.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Thank you, great ideas!
> 
> My concept might very well fail completely, but I have to try first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my current setup in a Define R3: (which gets a little too hot, imo)
> 
> 
> 
> Note: The length of the CLC tubing is a restriction (330mm). Bottom GPU won't reach the top of the case...


Imo even this would be a better setup than what you got going on in your first post. And it allows you to route everything just like you already have it, other than the CPU radiator which shouldn't be an issue to mount anywhere up top (same distance).



Edit: Noticed tho it might create a hot spot around your GPU's tho.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is bad. Why go with 120mm fans, when you can use 140mm.


Most of the great 120mm fans are not made in 140mm versions sadly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The fan in the front top, is inside the OD bay, and not needed.


5.25" bay removed ofc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Same goes for the bottom 140mm fan, should be better off as intake.


Yepp, I agree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Front might have issues with spacing, as you want to run 2x 120mm rad? What kind of cooling you doing?
> As the front fans are side by side, so no clearance in between.


CLC's
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> As for rads pushing air out from the front, that is not a problem. Been done many times with little or no issues in temps or performance.
> Having top as intake is more than fine.












Got a X58 chipset which runs hot. Don't want hot air around it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Depending on the fan used, there is many good 140mm.
So you have to cut out the ODD bay, the fan in there is not lined up with the rest, its in the middle of the case.
The hoses from the CLC used would need to be off the sides of the case.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Depending on the fan used, there is many good 140mm.
> So you have to cut out the ODD bay, the fan in there is not lined up with the rest, its in the middle of the case.
> The hoses from the CLC used would need to be off the sides of the case.


Yes, you just drill out a few rivets and the 5.25" bay comes off.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> Imo even this would be a better setup than what you got going on in your first post. And it allows you to route everything just like you already have it, other than the CPU radiator which shouldn't be an issue to mount anywhere up top (same distance).
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Noticed tho it might create a hot spot around your GPU's tho.


nope

do FRONT INtakes , TOP INtakes , REAR Exhaust 140mm (at higher speed as the intakes) , BOTTOM INtake (optional) and also optional: reverse the PSU so it takes air from inside the case
yes, the inside of the case will run a bit hotter, but no worse as if you were using traditional "air" heatsinks

note: the reason for using 120 mm fans on rads is that there is a much better selection of GOOD 120 mm fans for rads compared to 140mm fans


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> nope
> 
> do FRONT INtakes , TOP INtakes , REAR Exhaust 140mm (at higher speed as the intakes) , BOTTOM INtake (optional) and also optional: reverse the PSU so it takes air from inside the case
> yes, the inside of the case will run a bit hotter, but no worse as if you were using traditional "air" heatsinks
> 
> note: the reason for using 120 mm fans on rads is that there is a much better selection of GOOD 120 mm fans for rads compared to 140mm fans


Front intakes would only throw tons of heat directly into the case. That's fine but two GPU's worth of heat is a lot of heat. With the way you're telling him, there is essentially no escape for the heat. You're basically suggesting him to build a hot box. I suggest rear fan intake (with radiator to CPU), entire top three fans on exhaust, bottom fan intake, and both front fans intake (with radiator). Then the fans would be pushing the outside cool air through all the radiators to keep them cool. Once the heat is inside the case you then have to figure out a way to get rid of it. I would set the bottom fan to intake, and then the top three fans to exhaust (heat rises) so it is effectively funneling the heat up and out of the case. The PSU I would mount upside down so it takes in air from outside the case, then shoots it right back out the back. It not only will keep the PSU cooler so it lasts longer. Tho I strongly suggest it because most power supply's have plain sheet metal backing (no holes cut out for airflow). This means if either of his GPU or CPU liquid loops fail at the block. There is a 99% less chance of it leaking directly down and into the power supply. If that happens with the machine on, things will get ugly (e.g. the PSU could potentially fry every component in the machine). I personally myself rather it run cooler, and be safer. Tho that's just my own preference and how my machine is setup.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Have you bought the CLC yet? You can go with 140mm version, as you can use lower speed fans to get same effect from 120mm versions.
Which fans have you looked at?

I prefer this way as it works real well before. You have a strong intake to feed cool air into the rads.


----------



## Beatwolf

just a quick question is the XL R2 the same as the define r4 just bigger?


----------



## serafim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> just a quick question is the XL R2 the same as the define r4 just bigger?


XL R2 is a full tower case W x H x D ( 232mm x 559mm x 560 mm )

Define R4 a mid tower W x H x D ( 232mm x 464mm x 523mm )


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Have you bought the CLC yet? You can go with 140mm version, as you can use lower speed fans to get same effect from 120mm versions.
> Which fans have you looked at?
> 
> I prefer this way as it works real well before. You have a strong intake to feed cool air into the rads.


Yeah, already got three Antec 620's.
Think I'll go with Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450rpm.

Thought of putting these between the case and fan to reduce whiny noises....


----------



## GingertronMk1

Count me in! My Arc Midi R2 arrived today!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Thought of putting these between the case and fan to reduce whiny noises....


Wont reduce the whine, I have 7mm gaskets on my fans. it was just to move away from the grills. The fans you uses will determine the sound it will make.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Guys, just need some airflow advice here with my R4.
> 
> Intake: 2x 140mm Gelid Silent (front)
> Exhaust: 2x 120mm Corsair SP120 (top, in h100i), 1x Fractal R2 Silent fan (back), Corsair 760 PSU (mounted in intake position, to pull air from the case and exhaust out the back).
> 
> I am worried I will be created a negative airflow with this configuration, thoughts?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> So... I shouldn't be worried about negative airflow?


I would not go with a negative airflow configuration.
Just get a good 140mm dustfilter like the ines from Silverstone and flip the fan in the back.
It should give you better Temps on your h100 (one or two degree), but primarily a positive preassure.

If your 140mm fan doesn´t fit next to your AX760, just try a 120. I had one running one in my rig (because my PSU ist to long) for nine month or so and it works quiet well.
And if your going for esthetics:
(I think it works out well enough)


----------



## mphfrom77

Hi guys, sorry guys for this unresearched post, but I'm about at my wits end as far as researching and I am just so close to starting my build, but I forgot to research fans for my case. I'm not sure how long it would take me to find the info I need from this thread, so I thought I would go ahead and ask real quick.

So I was looking to see if I could get some suggestions and input on what I should do about my XL R2 build, as far as fans go. Maybe some fans I could pick up quick from my local Microcenter,or just from Amazon or Newegg.

I do not plan to water cool anything from the getgo. So only air.

This will be my first ever build. I'm pretty scared actually. I have all the parts at my house ready to go accept for a gpu, and case fans. I'm not sure if it would be a good idea to start building without having put case fans in yet. I haven't opened the box for the XL R2 yet, so I'm not sure what kind of fans it comes with or if I should replace them.

Also, if anybody knows of some good videos to help me put this together, that would be great as well.

Thanks


----------



## Theloudtrout

The Core 1000 makes a great little cheap server box once you shove an improvised HDD rack in.

I have done a few modifications to mine to make it more server friendly. Mainly soundproofing via some adhesive closed cell foam and dust filters on the intakes.


----------



## ds84

I'm thinking of getting an Arc Midi r2, and i need some advice on fan intakes/exhaust.

I'm planning on SLI in the future with EVGA GTX 770 SC w/ ACX. What i had initially planned was 2x front intakes, 2x top intakes, 1x rear exhaust. As for the bottom fan, i'm not sure whether to set it to exhaust or intake. I would also most probably use the last top fan as intake as well, but with the stock fan. I'm planning to get the AP-15 fans.

Any suggestions on how to improve airflow? Thanks.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I'm thinking of getting an Arc Midi r2, and i need some advice on fan intakes/exhaust.
> 
> I'm planning on SLI in the future with EVGA GTX 770 SC w/ ACX. What i had initially planned was 2x front intakes, 2x top intakes, 1x rear exhaust. As for the bottom fan, i'm not sure whether to set it to exhaust or intake. I would also most probably use the last top fan as intake as well, but with the stock fan. I'm planning to get the AP-15 fans.
> 
> Any suggestions on how to improve airflow? Thanks.


Two top exhaust, rear exhaust, bottom intake, front two intake. I believe that was originally how the case was designed for airflow. Tho that's just the way I run mine, equal amount of pressure through the case. All the heat will rise and be sucked out, while the bottom fans are drawing cool air into the case. Which usually works best in most situations.


----------



## RnRollie

heat rise is overrated - rising heat is only a serious factor in a totally passive setup
a bumblebee displaces more air as the natural convection/rise in a passive setup

Thus, as soon as you introduce fans, the "heat rises" point is moot.

for the Arc Midi : all Intake, except the rear which needs to be set at higher RPM/speed so that it can deal withthe positive pressure created by all those IN fans
example assuming you fill in all the positions with the same fans Rear out 1000-1100 RPM , Front,Top,Bottom IN: 700-800 RPM


----------



## GingertronMk1

Alternately, could you just not have a rear fan and let all the air come out naturally?


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> heat rise is overrated - rising heat is only a serious factor in a totally passive setup
> a bumblebee displaces more air as the natural convection/rise in a passive setup
> 
> *Thus, as soon as you introduce fans, the "heat rises" point is moot.*
> 
> for the Arc Midi : all Intake, except the rear which needs to be set at higher RPM/speed so that it can deal withthe positive pressure created by all those IN fans
> example assuming you fill in all the positions with the same fans Rear out 1000-1100 RPM , Front,Top,Bottom IN: 700-800 RPM


One would argue that hot air is less dense than cold air. Thus why the whole "hot air raises" factor comes into play (flotation). When you're introducing hot air into a closed environment, it will distribute itself until it reaches a thermodynamic equilibrium. Tho computer cases aren't exactly closed systems. So one would argue that introducing cool air at the bottom of the system, effectively persuades the hot air to go up and out on its own. If the case fans at the bottom of the case move enough air into the case. You wouldn't need fans at the top of the case only an air vent. Which has actually been implemented on a successful case already, the SilverStone RAVEN. Which bases its whole air flow on that theory.


----------



## Moragg

Arc Midi R2 has arrived







so count me in.

Love the case, my 212 evo will be arriving tuesday to replace the *cough" AMD stock cooler *cough*.

So far I've turned the top fan into an intake and moved it to the middle, but can anyone recommend some (fairly quiet at idle, not extremely loud at full speed) 140mm fans capable of pushing lots of air through these filters?
Preferably not expensive fans either, but would I be able to improve temps by more than 5C with more/better fans?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

As long you have good airflow. There is no middle 140mm top mount.
To have performance and silent against filters won't happen. As faster you go, more noise us made. Finding balance is what you want.
My rig you can see only the rear fan 140mm is exhaust, all the rest is 140mm intake.
Works well for me in my home.
Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Moragg

No middle 140mm slot? The Arc Midi R2 has 3 top slots, the back 2 are 140mm and the third (where the ODD drives go) is 120mm.

Silence is not what I want. At idle (for browsing) it should be a low hum, it can be quite a lot louder for gaming as I use IEMs. I was just wondering if the investment of more/better fans would improve temperatures by a decent amount, and if so which ones are good for a case like this, where filters/grill provide quite a bit of obstruction to airflow.


----------



## RnRollie

as with so many things in life, follwoing goes with fans
you can have them in following variations

silent + performance = NOT cheap
silent + cheap = NO performance
performance + cheap = NOT silent

cheap + silent + performance = unobtainium
and i am not even mentioning PWM and "bling"









the 140 mm FDs that come with it are not bad , they go upto 1000 RPM although they could do with a bit more pressure given the filters FD uses on their cases. specs: http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p14096_FRACTAL-DESIGN-fan-FD-Silent-Series-R2-FD-FAN-SSR2-140---140x140x25mm--.html

silent & performance puts you in Noctua & Noiseblocker territory - they dont come cheap
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p15623_Noctua-NF-A14-PWM---140x140x25mm--.html

or Gently Typhoon if you switch to 120mm


----------



## ZeVo

Rollie beat me to it..









But I really can vouch for the NF-A14 FLX fans. I have the non PWM version, but regardless, these fans are silent. I'm running them at max, and can still barely hear them. My DC2 670 is louder than all of the Noctua's in my case.

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-140x140x25mm-1200rpm/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377368447&sr=8-1&keywords=nf-a14

They really are good performing fans, while still being quiet. If the brown color scheme isn't your thing, they should be coming out with some new ones in black soon.


----------



## Moragg

Thanks, will definitely look at those fans.

My main priority is performance - as mentioned fitting out a case with good new fans is expensive, and not something I want to do unless these fans would improve temps by a lot - if they're as expensive as noctuas I'd like a 7C drop minimum really. Anyone able to provide some numbers for me here?

Noise isn't too much of an issue - so long as they don't become much more than a "loud hum" at max they should be sufficiently quiet when I'm idling.

Cost - while I have the funds I'm still quiet cheap, in that I won;t spend on minimal performance gains.

Colour - black would be nicer, but through this dark tint Fractal have gone with I can barely see my components, let alone colour









+rep to RnRollie for the link to the fan.


----------



## steelkevin

Just stopping by to say Fractal Design's customer support is EXCELLENT









I recieved a retail version (nzxt would send OEM parts) of the windowed pannel yesterday, I wasn't even expecting it seeing as they hadn't explicitely told me that they'd sent it. So that's great but then I opened the box up to find not one side pannel but TWO !

@Moragg:

20€ / $ is the price of most fans. I was lucky and got four 140mm Akasa Apache for 6€ each on sale but those were for a radiator. And the second radiator got some cheap (2.50€ each I think it was) Yate Loons. I'd never invest in case fan remplacements though because like you, I don't want to pay for stuff that won't make a significant difference.


----------



## toyz72

work in progress


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @Moragg:
> 
> 20€ / $ is the price of most fans. I was lucky and got four 140mm Akasa Apache for 6€ each on sale but those were for a radiator. And the second radiator got some cheap (2.50€ each I think it was) Yate Loons. I'd never invest in case fan remplacements though because like you, I don't want to pay for stuff that won't make a significant difference.


At that price they'd cost more than the case itself. Like you I think i'll leave it till I see or a good deal, or someone shows me some convincing numbers.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> *At that price they'd cost more than the case itself.* Like you I think i'll leave it till I see or a good deal, or someone shows me some convincing numbers.


Exactly which is why it always surprises me when people by a case and decide to order a load of replacement fans ^^.

If anybody ever turns up with some convincing numbers let me know, I'm curious


----------



## Moragg

@toyz72 - I see you have lots (and lots) of very high quality fans in there - would you mind doing a test for us? Nothing much, just a quick max temp running all your fans, then one with only 1 top fan, 1 rear fan, 1 front fan, so we can see the difference?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> work in progress


Nice build, so many nocuta fans..... im palnning something similar with arc midi2, just i wont use optical or external fan controller, i want to use a Noctua NF-A14 for case fans and Noctua NF-A15s for cpu fans, and control them all via BIOS on CPU header, still chosing mobo between MSI/ASUS. Btw those are NF-A14 but PWM or FLX?


----------



## toyz72

first off....i'm a noctua nut. the reason i choose noctua to over any other fan out there, is because i like silence. i'm not an oc'er, but i do run some benches just to see my performance level's.

i can't really run the fan test's you ask for because of the my fan controller is set up. but here is my system running prime95 at 75% fan speed. try to keep in mine that i have a hot chip and everything is at stock speeds.



this is only one pass....i'm also going to do a pass at 50% fan speed,which is totally silent. this is as low as i can go with out changing the fan controller setting.


----------



## Moragg

Nevermind. I think I may actually upgrade my fans since the included ones have very low static pressure. With the filters, i put my hand in front of these fans and feel next to nothing.

Am I right in thinking I need fans with high static pressure to get decent airflow with these filters?


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Nice build, so many nocuta fans..... im palnning something similar with arc midi2, just i wont use optical or external fan controller, i want to use a Noctua NF-A14 for case fans and Noctua NF-A15s for cpu fans, and control them all via BIOS on CPU header, still chosing mobo between MSI/ASUS. Btw those are NF-A14 but PWM or FLX?


these are the flx. i went with these because they had more rpm and i use a fan controller. don't be worried though,the pwn fans will work awsome to. i'm running prime95 right now at 50% fan speed to see my temp's. i might just be lowering my fan speed to 30%....which is just awsome!


----------



## Abula

@toyz72, thanks for sharing the stress test.

Im personally also waiting to see if noctua released the NH-D15, what should come with two NF-A15 PWM, the rest that im planning will be NF-A14 PWM, im kinda interested on Prolimatech MK-26 but will see, its so huge and heavy...

Btw if you were not to use the bottom hdd cage, could you still fit another NF-A14 on the bottom?


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> @toyz72, thanks for sharing the stress test.
> 
> Im personally also waiting to see if noctua released the NH-D15, what should come with two NF-A15 PWM, the rest that im planning will be NF-A14 PWM, im kinda interested on Prolimatech MK-26 but will see, its so huge and heavy...
> 
> Btw if you were not to use the bottom hdd cage, could you still fit another NF-A14 on the bottom?


i am also interested in that vga cooler. my gtx 670 is the loudest thing in my case. i went ahead and ran prime95 again at 50% fan speed and it seems i gained 2c. i think its safe to say i can run at 30% fan speed with out issue.



i know noctua's are pricey, but being able to run such low fan speeds is pretty sweet. anyone who own's a FD case knows the filter's are pretty thick.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> *At that price they'd cost more than the case itself.* Like you I think i'll leave it till I see or a good deal, or someone shows me some convincing numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly which is why it always surprises me when people by a case and decide to order a load of replacement fans ^^.
> 
> If anybody ever turns up with some convincing numbers let me know, I'm curious
Click to expand...

Here's a test you can try yourself:

Furmark, case as normal: my temps are 87C+ (didn't want to let it go over that).
Furmark, front filter taken off: 81C max

Fractal, why you do this?


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Here's a test you can try yourself:
> 
> Furmark, case as normal: my temps are 87C+ (didn't want to let it go over that).
> Furmark, front filter taken off: 81C max
> 
> Fractal, why you do this?


if your referring to 3dmark basic(fire storm)? using all stock settings and 50% fan speed, my cpu hits 58c and gpu 75c. all filters are in,and i have no fan curves set up.

why dont you post your set up and maybe some pic's? then we could see what your working with


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> if your referring to 3dmark basic(fire storm)? using all stock settings and 50% fan speed, my cpu hits 58c and gpu 75c. all filters are in,and i have no fan curves set up.
> 
> why dont you post your set up and maybe some pic's? then we could see what your working with


I can't post them right now, but I'll get them up tomorrow. Set-up is default Arc Midi R2 without top HDD cage.
GPU - 7870XT
stock amd cpu cooler (I know it's awful, am getting 212 Evo delivered on tues).

So fans are standard rear exhaust, on the top my back fan is exhaust, my front top fan is intake. Like http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Fractal_Design/Arc_Midi_R2/4.html

All fans are http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=4&prod=79


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I can't post them right now, but I'll get them up tomorrow. Set-up is default Arc Midi R2 without top HDD cage.
> GPU - 7870XT
> stock amd cpu cooler (I know it's awful, am getting 212 Evo delivered on tues).
> 
> So fans are standard rear exhaust, on the top my back fan is exhaust, my front top fan is intake. Like http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Fractal_Design/Arc_Midi_R2/4.html
> 
> All fans are http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=4&prod=79


that cpu cooler should make a world of difference. maybe later down the road add some more case fans to. looking forward to the pic's. i like seeing amd builds.


----------



## Moragg

I'm hoping it does, but then my GPU temps are still a problem. I don't want it going over 85C at most, and I can't manage that without removing the front filter (which improves GPU temps by over 7C, no small difference). With filters this thick I need something able to shift large amounts of air through them.

My AMD build is very old, CPU is a Phenom II X6 1055T


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I'm hoping it does, but then my GPU temps are still a problem. I don't want it going over 85C at most, and I can't manage that without removing the front filter (which improves GPU temps by over 7C, no small difference). With filters this thick I need something able to shift large amounts of air through them.
> 
> My AMD build is very old, CPU is a Phenom II X6 1055T


You dont have proper cooling for your CPU to handle the heat. I dont have issues with temps. You want to add bottom, front bottom and addition top to increase airflow.
Once you get your 212, you can try to have the top set to intake too help increase airflow on the cpu area.
I used all Fractal 140mm R2 fans before switch to PWM, and temps were no different.
If your room is warm, your temps will rise.


----------



## RnRollie

you know, a nice Swiftech or XSPC or EK (shudder) kit will bring you closer to ambient for less noise...


----------



## wickedout

Hey everyone! I'm looking at the Fractal Design Define R4 artic white - WINDOW or go Black with window or without? I'm still on the fence. What are some of you using for cooling? Feed me some ideas! Please! Thanks!


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Hey everyone! I'm looking at the Fractal Design Define R4 artic white - WINDOW or go Black with window or without? I'm still on the fence. What are some of you using for cooling? Feed me some ideas! Please! Thanks!


White with window look AMAZING, but I went with a black windowed one, because the rest of my peripherals are black too.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> White with window look AMAZING, but I went with a black windowed one, because the rest of my peripherals are black too.


I have a white PSU that's amazing! Is this case easy to clean out as in dusting?


----------



## Eggy88

Getting somewhere:


Checking clearance with SLI:




Card will be watercooled once EK releases the blocks, I'm also using a hdd drivebay cage to mount 3 other drives in the 5.25" bays for a total of 6 drives + 1 ssd


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Getting somewhere:
> 
> 
> Checking clearance with SLI:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Card will be watercooled once EK releases the blocks, I'm also using a hdd drivebay cage to mount 3 other drives in the 5.25" bays for a total of 6 drives + 1 ssd


That is an Arc Midi r2? The EVGA 780 Classified occupies 2 slots, right?


----------



## Eggy88

Yes it's an arc midi r2, uploading from the phone screws with the pictures, some are beeing rotated. The classy takes 2 slots yes


----------



## Dctr

I heard the XL R2 doors could open up....this true or are they just detachable?


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Yes it's an arc midi r2, uploading from the phone screws with the pictures, some are beeing rotated. The classy takes 2 slots yes


Thanks for the heads up.. Im planning for 770 SLI with Asrock Z87 Extreme 4 in the future.... and it seems that mine will clear the hdd as well, based on ur pics.


----------



## Eggy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up.. Im planning for 770 SLI with Asrock Z87 Extreme 4 in the future.... and it seems that mine will clear the hdd as well, based on ur pics.


This is the extreme 6, but yes the card has a few mm to the cage, i had to drill some new holes in thr bottom due to clearence issues with the pump/res config and the thick rad with push pull in the front. Depending on where you put rhe cage it might block the fan on the lower card, I'm watercooling them anyway so does not worry me. I'm really happy yo be able to fit 6 drives, 2 cards, 2x240mm rads in this small case, i only had to drill a few extra holes.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> This is the extreme 6, but yes the card has a few mm to the cage, i had to drill some new holes in thr bottom due to clearence issues with the pump/res config and the thick rad with push pull in the front. Depending on where you put rhe cage it might block the fan on the lower card, I'm watercooling them anyway so does not worry me. I'm really happy yo be able to fit 6 drives, 2 cards, 2x240mm rads in this small case, i only had to drill a few extra holes.


Im gonna leave the bottom cage in original position, removing the top cage, and adding a bottom intake fan to feed air into the cards.


----------



## ernieleo

Define R4


----------



## steelkevin

Not really a fan of the brand stickers... is it a sponsored build or did you decide to put them there ?


----------



## Pebruska

Those stickers... Oh the humanity!









Otherwise looks great


----------



## ernieleo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Not really a fan of the brand stickers... is it a sponsored build or did you decide to put them there ?


It was a build for a friend and she wanted them on there........


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ernieleo*
> 
> It was a build for a friend and she wanted them on there........


As long as she gave you an extra tenner to stick them on there







.

EDIT: the rig itself looks nice otherwise







. I would remove that black plastic bit that's under the OD cage though if you still can


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The fan on the heatsink facing as exhaust? Would flip it to push air through.
manufacture stickers, nah. Snow white is fine.


----------



## ernieleo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The fan on the heatsink facing as exhaust? Would flip it to push air through.


Why ?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Reason is pushing through with that type of cooler is better. The point is to cool the surrounding area with C-type cooler. Pull lacks the force to properly cool the heatsink, which will result in higher temps for the CPU and case.
Compared to a U-Type (CM 212) performance would be better. using the same fan.


----------



## echo27fire

Figured I'd go ahead and post a pic of my rig. I thinking about water cooling it in the next few months after I change those fans and get a 780.


----------



## ernieleo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Reason is pushing through with that type of cooler is better. The point is to cool the surrounding area with C-type cooler. Pull lacks the force to properly cool the heatsink, which will result in higher temps for the CPU and case.
> Compared to a U-Type (CM 212) performance would be better. using the same fan.


Thanks for the replay.........


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Figured I'd go ahead and post a pic of my rig. I thinking about water cooling it in the next few months after I change those fans and get a 780.


If you have 2 SSD only, you can remove them from the HDD bay and put them any where. Get more clearance and airflow
The plastic rails can be removed.


----------



## echo27fire

I have one SSD and a 1tb Seagate Barracuda. That second 2.5 drive is from my dead laptop I was recovering files from.

I'm still looking at all the options but I have an idea what I'm going to do. Put the HDD in the top 5.25 bay with an adapter and put a fan up there. Put a fan controller in the bottom one and the SSD somewhere behind the motherboard tray. Though I'm thinking about getting another one for RAID, but I don't want to install everything again....


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Hot air goes up its physics


Not significant where there are fans. The lighter hot air will not resist to the fans push.

My advice: all intake and leave the back free for air exhaust due to the pressure or stick a fan if you want to.


----------



## CZECHYa

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/iduv.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/mswk.jpg/

Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium Windowed
MSI Z77A-GD65
Noctua NH-U14S
Core i7 2600K 4,5 / 1.30V / 64 load
MSI GTX 770 Gaming 1320/8010 75 load
Seasonic X-660

Cooling : all 5V, except cpu fan PWM

All HDD cages removed, SSD mounted behind 5,25" position. 2x Scythe Himuro in 5,25s to keep my HDDs quiet and cool.

Using some Bitfenix single sleeved cables.

Deadly silent, no LEDs and other useless crap.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CZECHYa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/iduv.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/mswk.jpg/
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium Windowed
> MSI Z77A-GD65
> Noctua NH-U14S
> Core i7 2600K 4,5 / 1.30V / 64 load
> MSI GTX 770 Gaming 1320/8010 75 load
> Seasonic X-660
> 
> Cooling : all 5V, except cpu fan PWM
> 
> All HDD cages removed, SSD mounted behind 5,25" position. 2x Scythe Himuro in 5,25s to keep my HDDs quiet and cool.
> 
> Using some Bitfenix single sleeved cables.
> 
> Deadly silent, no LEDs and other useless crap.


ALL THE NOCTUAS









Nice rig, you´ve got there and some pretty good temps too.

Maybe go with some sleeved cables on your 770 it should give it a cleaner look.









EDIT:
Skythe Himuro FTW they are just amazing.


----------



## wickedout

Hi there everyone! I'm new to Fractal Design and so glad I am. Just pulled the trigger on a brand new case. I did all my research and my heart kept going back to this. I love white. Now my PSU will be in sync with this case. The current case was won and it's just to big for my needs. I'll put it back into storage. It's actually quiet but I want silence. No sounds! Just a computer that kicks some butt!

I'm really excited to get this case. What's your take on this case? Thanks for all the help!

http://www.fractal-design.com/?view=product&category=2&prod=107


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CZECHYa*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/iduv.jpg/
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/mswk.jpg/
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium Windowed
> MSI Z77A-GD65
> Noctua NH-U14S
> Core i7 2600K 4,5 / 1.30V / 64 load
> MSI GTX 770 Gaming 1320/8010 75 load
> Seasonic X-660
> 
> Cooling : all 5V, except cpu fan PWM
> 
> All HDD cages removed, SSD mounted behind 5,25" position. 2x Scythe Himuro in 5,25s to keep my HDDs quiet and cool.
> 
> Using some Bitfenix single sleeved cables.
> 
> Deadly silent, no LEDs and other useless crap.


That's a clean build. Love the Noctua fans.


----------



## Tetris

Good evening,

I have a slight issue here with FD Define R4 and Noctua NF-A14 fan. I want to put 2 stock fans that came with the case in front and Noctua fan in the back (as exhaust), the thing is Noctua fan is 4 pin. Do I need to get an adapter 4 pin to 2 pin( if there are any) if so will I be able to control all 3 fans with the stock controller that came with the case?


----------



## Moragg

I've looked around, and think I may well end up buying 4 Noctua A14 PWM (since it has higher static pressure+cfm) and connect them to the fan controller using 2 of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phobya-Adaptor-4Pin-PWM-Plug-To-3Pin-Socket-Fan-Cable-30cm-Black-/231027763602?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item35ca53e992

Those 4 would be for the filters, so front intake x2 and top rear would be exhaust and top middle would be intake (perhaps with LNA). Should work quite well I think - I'll save myself £40 and use the included fans at the bottom and rear exhaust, since they get fairly good airflow through them.

I settled on Noctua since their fans are actually quite cheap when you consider the 6 year warranty. It may actually make them cheaper than other similarly specced (and louder!) fans in the long run.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I've looked around, and think I may well end up buying 4 Noctua A14 PWM (since it has higher static pressure+cfm) and connect them to the fan controller using 2 of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phobya-Adaptor-4Pin-PWM-Plug-To-3Pin-Socket-Fan-Cable-30cm-Black-/231027763602?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item35ca53e992
> 
> Those 4 would be for the filters, so front intake x2 and top rear would be exhaust and top middle would be intake (perhaps with LNA). Should work quite well I think - I'll save myself £40 and use the included fans at the bottom and rear exhaust, since they get fairly good airflow through them.
> 
> I settled on Noctua since their fans are actually quite cheap when you consider the 6 year warranty. It may actually make them cheaper than other similarly specced (and louder!) fans in the long run.


It is bad to control a pwm fan with voltage. It will harm the pwm circuit. If you are running them off a fan controller there is no need to pay extra for pwm.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It is bad to control a pwm fan with voltage. It will harm the pwm circuit. If you are running them off a fan controller there is no need to pay extra for pwm.


It really comes down into how you design the cooling of your PC. I really like the freedom that Asus FanXpert2 gives, but the hole AI Suite III its not of my liking, seems unstable and to some point like if the software is still on beta, fanXpert2 should be a stand alone app, but since im having some issues with AI SUite III, im moving toward pure BIOS fan control, and with PWM fans is much easier. And the Asus BIOS fan control is inferior to MSI in my experience with this fans.

For example, im planning on returning to ATX with ARC MIDI2 (still on route), with pure PWM fans, i have chosen Noctua NF-A14PWM out of its good range (250-1600rpm) and no that many options out there. For CPU cooler im going to use a Thermalright Silver Arrow SBE with two TY150 PWM, going to run a Swiftech 8-Way PWM Splitter Box and probably a 2x Y PWM splitter for the TY150. All ran from CPU_Fan1 and CPU_FAN2 headers.

Testing on MSI Z77GA43 on pure bios, i got the following numbers, running the bios fan control with minimum of 25% on CPU Min.Fan Speed control,



I can run it below 25%, the TY150 will rung at 585rpm at 12.5% and at 0%, seems like the fan will never stop on PWM signal, and the sensor still reads it the same. The Noctua NF-A14PWM will also run at 12.5% and 0%, it will never stop either, but MSI motherboard wont read below 400rpm, so the fans are dipping below that. Will see on a MSI Z87 G45 (the board that ill use), but i expect the same readings, but who knows maybe it can read below 400rpm, this would be ideal for me.


----------



## gdubc

^that will work well in your case, as you will be using a pwm splitter. But with a voltage controlling fan controller he would be better off with 3pin fans. I wanted all pwm fans thinking my board had all pwm headers, so sad to find out I was mislead. I will probably hook everything up like you mentioned if I ever get around to installing my h220, it comes with one of those handy splitters also.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> It is bad to control a pwm fan with voltage. It will harm the pwm circuit. If you are running them off a fan controller there is no need to pay extra for pwm.


It is? That makes my solution even cheaper, don't get the adapter cables and run them 100% through my mobo. I doubt the Noctuas could be annoying or loud at max.

I still want the PWM though as it has better airflow and static pressure than the FLX version.


----------



## gdubc

You should do like Abula mentioned in that case and use a pwm splitter off your cpu header. No need for a fan controller. Just get one like the swiftech that supplies the power to the fans from a molex to your psu instead of off the mb header. The mb header is just used for the sense and pwm signal wires in that instance.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You should do like Abula mentioned in that case and use a pwm splitter off your cpu header. No need for a fan controller. Just get one like the swiftech that supplies the power to the fans from a molex to your psu instead of off the mb header. The mb header is just used for the sense and pwm signal wires in that instance.


If I do that would I be able to set custom fan profiles for each fan or would it run the same as my CPU fan?


----------



## Abula

The only problem with my plan is the motherboard, for example im chosing MSI out of it not having dumb restriction on the bios, i can send 0% pwm signal if i wish, on other motherboards is different, for example my Asus Maximus IV Gene, also can control the pwm fans on bios, but on manual (like the msi) it has a restricion of 40% on CPU header, not good enoufh for me, the NF-A14PWM runs at 615rpm (but to most it should be fine), it has presets also, the silent mode allows a little lower than the manual lowest, cant say how much as its preset on the bios, but here is on the Noctua NF-A14PWM on the Asus bios control



But remember im really trying to have my fans very low on idle, and let them ramp up with the load, overall for most what im doing is not worth it, its just that to me its something i want to do in terms of creating a very quiet setup that i dont have to push nobs when i game / bench.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> If I do that would I be able to set custom fan profiles for each fan or would it run the same as my CPU fan?


No you cant, this is a tricky part, this is the reason i bought mulitple fans to test before i even chose the motherboard, for me its like matching the fans. All fans will get the same PWM signal so whatever they are rated to run at that signal is what they will run, cant control them indiviually like this, if you wish to do it like that go with Asus motherboard, one with FanXpert2 will allow you control alll your fans, but as gdubc recommended, only use PWM fans on the CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT headers, this are the only true pwm headers, the rest are voltage controlled fan headers, so i also agree that you are better off using a 3pin fans on chassis fan headers, Asus fanxpert2 is pretty solid in terms of testing and giving you full range of operation on all fans, it will even overwirte the BIOS restrictions and give you full control, its really amazing software.


----------



## Moragg

I may do that... but you can run the fans full tilt off the 3 pin headers without damaging them, correct? So if that noise level is OK with me then I would probably leave it at that.


----------



## gdubc

They would all run off the CPU profile. Only one reports speed back and they are all controlled the same. Most, if not all motherboards only have the cpu and sometimes cpu_opt headers that are true pwm, regardless of what the motherboard manual says. That is for sure the case with Asus anyhow.

Edit: doh! i was too late!!


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I may do that... but you can run the fans full tilt off the 3 pin headers without damaging them, correct? So if that noise level is OK with me then I would probably leave it at that.


Im not sure about the damaging, i never have ran a PWM fan on 3pin voltage control for long periods of time, just for testing mostly. What i can tell you is that in my personal testing the PWM Fans run smoother on a 4pin PWM header and running them on 3pin voltage controlled headers will not allow them to drop as low as they can on 4pin PWM header (but remember that even if it has "four pins" its not enough to guarantee that its a pwm fan header, usually only CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT on Asus, and on MSI CPU_FAN1 and CPU_FAN2, idk other motherboard). This is the main reason that i was suggesting just to use fanXpert2, just use 4pin fans n the CPU_FAN headers, and use 3pin on CHASSIS_FAN headers, the rest is cake for fanXpert2, it will test the fans, it will establish its highest and lowest settings and it will calibrate it for you, you can always overwrite this and create your own ramping profile. For me FanXpert2 is the best by far managing software for fans there is, the only problem for me is that comes with AISUITE III, if Asus were to release it as stand alone, ill go back to asus motherboards, but for me atm is all about BIOS fan control and thats why im choosing certain fans that should work well together on the bios, and chosing a motherbaord that can drop them low enough for what im planning to do, but what im doing is way more complicated than it has to be, FanXpert2 will do all things for you as long as you chose the correct fans for each header.


----------



## Moragg

A quick bit of research shows 4-pin PWM fans are designed to be compatible with 3-pin slots. Only downside to this is you lose PWM functionality and the fan runs at full speed 100% of the time - not really an issue with the Noctua A14 PWM as they are fairly quiet (I think).

Shame no-one makes a good 4-pin PWM 5.25" fan controller.


----------



## michael-ocn

I'm surprised there are so few of pwm controllers too? Zalman makes some that support one 4pin pwm fan...
http://www.zalman.com/eng/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=376
http://www.zalman.com/eng/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=341
... with a controller like that and a pwm splitter like the swiftech splitter, you could control a bunch of pwm fans with a single knob.

You can plug a 4 pin fan into a 3 pin connector and it would be voltage regulated, but that could damage the pwm control logic built into the fan (its expecting 12v and will be getting less). If you plug a 3pin fan into a 4pin pwm connector, the fan will run at full speed since the 12v line will always be at 12v.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> A quick bit of research shows 4-pin PWM fans are designed to be compatible with 3-pin slots. Only downside to this is you lose PWM functionality and the fan runs at full speed 100% of the time - not really an issue with the Noctua A14 PWM as they are fairly quiet (I think).
> 
> Shame no-one makes a good 4-pin PWM 5.25" fan controller.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> A quick bit of research shows 4-pin PWM fans are designed to be compatible with 3-pin slots. Only downside to this is you lose PWM functionality and the fan runs at full speed 100% of the time - not really an issue with the Noctua A14 PWM as they are fairly quiet (I think).


Well personally i would run 3pin on voltage control headers or on 3pin fan controllers. Here is some test i did yesterday on FanXpert2 running the NF-A14 PWM on a CPU_FAN header (real pwm header), and on CHASSIS_FAN header (4pin in theory, but its voltage controlled), you can see the difference in the graphs and charts

 

Worth mentioning that the NF-A14 PWM is unstable on 3pin on the default setting on FanXpert2, it turn off after like 3mins of running after the testing/tunning, but this can be fixed by just bumping the graph some to avoid the stopping of the fan. On the PWM header is completely stable even at lower rpms.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Shame no-one makes a good 4-pin PWM 5.25" fan controller.


PWM fans are meant to be controlled by the motherboard PWM signal, its like going opposite to needing a external fan controller and just using your motherboard software / bios to control them. Personally i love this, specially the ability for the setup to drop down the fans to their lowest rpm when cooling is not needed like browsing or just being in idle, and the ability to ramp itself when more heat needs to be dissipated by benching/OCing/gaming, etc. This is why im putting so much effort in this, trying to automate the cooling, still fanXpert2 will do that for you no matter the fan (well matters its characteristics like its range of operation), but for the reason i mentioned before ill be doing it on bios.


----------



## kim jong so ill

First review of the Arc Mini R2


----------



## lugal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> ...


3 pin fans are thing of the past when it comes to automatic fan control, but most motherboards have still very long way to go - from what I learned it is better to use 3rd party program (in my case speedfan - if controlling chip actually supports it) so you can set the speed of the fans individualy and based on temperature of many different components (gpu core, hdds, mobo, cpu core etc.). Not even asus sabertooth bios/utility allows you to do that and that is sad.

Anyway, I personally wouldnt buy a mobo that doesnt have at least 2 individually controlable 4pins (for example for define r4 I usually do 1x front, 1x rear fan + cpu fans on first 4pin controled by cpu temp and 1x bottom fan on 2nd 4pin that is controlled by gpu temp, if I have more 4pins to play (that are actually pwm and without stupid %duty restrictions) I make exhaust fan controlled by both cpu and gpu temp.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lugal*
> 
> Anyway, I personally wouldnt buy a mobo that doesnt have at least 2 individually controlable 4pins (for example for define r4 I usually do 1x front, 1x rear fan + cpu fans on first 4pin controled by cpu temp and 1x bottom fan on 2nd 4pin that is controlled by gpu temp, if I have more 4pins to play (that are actually pwm and without stupid %duty restrictions) I make exhaust fan controlled by both cpu and gpu temp.


If you know of any mb that does have two independently controlled pwm headers you should share the info! I don't know of any...


----------



## Eggy88

Just about done. Just need to fill up the loop.

4770K
Asrock Extreme 6
16Gb Kingston Hyper X Beast
EVGA GTX 780 Classified
2 X 240mm EK rads
6 X HDD's
1 X SSD



GPU will be watercooled as well so this is just until EK releases the Classy blocks.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> If you know of any mb that does have two independently controlled pwm headers you should share the info! I don't know of any...


Asrock Fatality series
ASUS ROG series
.. most hi-end/gamers


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Asrock Fatality series
> ASUS ROG series
> .. most hi-end/gamers


Idk Asrock, but on ASUS ROG i have built some, although there are two CPU headers (CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT), only the CPU_FAN is controllable, the CPU_OPT is more like a Y spliter, convinient for people uisng twin tower coolers and entry lvl watercooling kits, or even higher end water, or in my case, for getting the rpms of two different fans although both are being controlled by the same pwm signal.


----------



## GingertronMk1

The OPT_FAN headers are independently controllable, but you need a thermal probe put where you want to cool.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> The OPT_FAN headers are independently controllable, but you need a thermal probe put where you want to cool.


Im not sure if im understanding what you are saying, there is no OPT_FAN, there is CPU_FAN, CPU_OPT and CHASSIS_FAN 1, 2, 3. The chassis_fans are controllable by voltage control on fanXpert2, and i believe you are correct into the probe (i never really done it), and they are controllable individually, but the CPU_OPT is not, it doesn't appear on the bios and FanXpert2 there is only the rpm reporting, i have never seen it or maybe there is trick to enable it.


----------



## gdubc

On my mvf there are 3 opt fan headers. All are supposed to be pwm and they can be controlled based on the probes but they actually use voltage. Only true pwm headers are cpu and cpu_opt(clone of cpu signal). Raja, rep for Asus confirms all Asus boards are this way.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> On my mvf there are 3 opt fan headers. All are supposed to be pwm and they can be controlled based on the probes but they actually use voltage. Only true pwm headers are cpu and cpu_opt(clone of cpu signal). Raja, rep for Asus confirms all Asus boards are this way.


So basically Asus is lying to consumers?


----------



## villain

I ordered a Fractal R4 to replace my HAF X.

This is going to be more of a quiet build. Should I keep my NH-D14 and add some fans or get a closed loop CPU cooler, replace its fans and put it on top?


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *villain*
> 
> I ordered a Fractal R4 to replace my HAF X.
> 
> This is going to be more of a quiet build. Should I keep my NH-D14 and add some fans or get a closed loop CPU cooler, replace its fans and put it on top?


if you want it to remain quite , i would stick with the d14 cooler. then maybe look into some new noctua 140mm fans.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> So basically Asus is lying to consumers?


Sadly so it seems. Raja just said "I don't know why it states that in the manuals as I don't write the manuals." I am like, thanks man...helps so much.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *villain*
> 
> I ordered a Fractal R4 to replace my HAF X.
> 
> This is going to be more of a quiet build. Should I keep my NH-D14 and add some fans or get a closed loop CPU cooler, replace its fans and put it on top?


The NH-D14 still is a great cooler, for OCing or to build a quiet setup, so i would keep it, still is on the top 5 air cooler. Now for more quiet, try to undervolt the fans or control them via

The Fractal Design Define R4 is imo a wonderful case, but it wont do miracles, if you are building for a quiet setup, you gotta avoid noisy components, Fans and mechanical hdds will be the biggest source of noise, so chose careful what you install on the R4.


----------



## Tempist305

Greetings, my fellow Fractal Design brethren! I come from a far away land known as the "Official Storm Trooper/Stryker Club". I switched from my Trooper to a new Define R4 because of it's sexiness. Replaced my Hyper 212 Evo with an h80i as well and not looking back!








Apologies for the bad image quality, stupid Nexus 4









This is with my old air cooler.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Um... if you only have the one hard drive, could you not just take the top cage out rather than rotating it?


----------



## Tempist305

Sure I could have! Then that would reveal my lazy cable management job! Also, wouldn't having the drive rails in front of the fan increase air pressure slightly? Just a thought.


----------



## Moragg

Hyper 212 Evo installed, cpu temps have dropped 20C. This is ridiculous, before I had zilch room to OC into, now I can volt up my 1055T and go for 4GHz









Not to mention my rig is now so much quieter, at max (furmark+prime95) it's about as loud as a normal whisper. At idle it's a quiet whisper. I wasn't aware computers could be this quiet


----------



## nitroxyl

Planning to wait for the new series of GPUs to come out before buying them.



Here's a pic with the window panel off. I tried my best to make my cabling as neat as possible!


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eggy88*
> 
> Just about done. Just need to fill up the loop.
> 
> 4770K
> Asrock Extreme 6
> 16Gb Kingston Hyper X Beast
> EVGA GTX 780 Classified
> 2 X 240mm EK rads
> 6 X HDD's
> 1 X SSD
> 
> 
> 
> GPU will be watercooled as well so this is just until EK releases the Classy blocks.


Wow! That massive rad in the front makes me mad jealous. I don't have enough money to spend on custom liquid cooling loops.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Wow! That massive rad in the front makes me mad jealous. I don't have enough money to spend on custom liquid cooling loops.


I know these aren't Monstas but now you've got another reason to be jealous







.





Waiting on the new GPUs too


----------



## lugal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Idk Asrock, but on ASUS ROG i have built some, although there are two CPU headers (CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT), only the CPU_FAN is controllable, the CPU_OPT is more like a Y spliter, convinient for people uisng twin tower coolers and entry lvl watercooling kits, or even higher end water, or in my case, for getting the rpms of two different fans although both are being controlled by the same pwm signal.


It doesnt have to be "cpu fan" header, many boards have "chassis fan" headers that are also pwm controlled and not dependant on cpu header pwm signal. For example maximusVIx has eight 4pins, sabertooth has six pwm headers etc. (usually at least one is just splitter that is meant to be used for dual fan coolers as you mentioned).

Basically you have to look for higher end motherboards - and there is still chance that even 4 pin header will have only voltage control (







), it will be limited to xy% minimum duty or it will have crap software and controller chip that doesnt work with speedfan.


----------



## Moragg

It's a bit late, but I thought I'd wait till the 212 Evo was in. Here's my setup:


It's not obvious from the photo, but I have no fans installed in the top. I was thinking of getting 4 Noctua A14 PWMs and arranging them like this:


Any feedback/suggestions? I was worried this could be "too much" positive pressure.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> It's a bit late, but I thought I'd wait till the 212 Evo was in. It's not obvious from the photo, but I have no fans installed in the top. I was thinking of getting 4 Noctua A14 PWMs and arranging them like this:
> 
> 
> Any feedback/suggestions? I was worried this could be "too much" positive pressure.


Put two of the Noctua in the front, one in the bottom for intake and then the 4th for exhaust in the rear. Leave the top open for the positive air flow to escape.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Could I get a Define R4 side panel and put it on my Arc Midi R2?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> Put two of the Noctua in the front, one in the bottom for intake and then the 4th for exhaust in the rear. Leave the top open for the positive air flow to escape.


I should've mentioned: I was going to use 2 of the included fans - these at the bottom as intake and at the rear as exhaust, where they are currently. The included fans shift a decent amount of air through the rear mesh and bottom intake (which has a thin filter) and I was going to use the higher static-pressure Noctua's for the much more heavily filtered top and front panels. I don't particularly want to remove these because of looks and dust.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> Could I get a Define R4 side panel and put it on my Arc Midi R2?


Yes.

I'm guessing you don't want the Midi's smoked window and ould rather be able to see through. That's understandable


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> It's a bit late, but I thought I'd wait till the 212 Evo was in. Here's my setup:
> 
> It's not obvious from the photo, but I have no fans installed in the top. I was thinking of getting 4 Noctua A14 PWMs and arranging them like this:
> 
> 
> Any feedback/suggestions? I was worried this could be "too much" positive pressure.


Unless you are willing to do some fancy ducting, dont do an in-out at the top, its only going to circulate air
do either in-in or an out-out

of course if you have a big household fan flowing air over the top of the case, THEN you can do an in-out


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lugal*
> 
> It doesnt have to be "cpu fan" header, many boards have "chassis fan" headers that are also pwm controlled and not dependant on cpu header pwm signal. For example maximusVIx has eight 4pins, sabertooth has six pwm headers etc. (usually at least one is just splitter that is meant to be used for dual fan coolers as you mentioned).
> 
> Basically you have to look for higher end motherboards - and there is still chance that even 4 pin header will have only voltage control (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), it will be limited to xy% minimum duty or it will have crap software and controller chip that doesnt work with speedfan.


Sorry to disappoint but the Asus only have the cpu and clone cpu_opt as true pwm. Manuals are wrong. They are 4 pin but use voltage (confirmed by many pissed off Asus customers as well as Asus themselves). Only motherboard I have seen that have more than one pwm header that is independently controlled is asrock (cpu and cha_fan 1) and that's assuming they aren't lieing about it like Asus.....


----------



## ds84

How do you tell if they fans are being fed with true PWM signals?


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Unless you are willing to do some fancy ducting, dont do an in-out at the top, its only going to circulate air
> do either in-in or an out-out
> 
> of course if you have a big household fan flowing air over the top of the case, THEN you can do an in-out


The air wouldn't circulate inside the case because of the 212 Evo and above the case I was hoping convection and the force at which it was pushed out would get rid of the hot air before it got sucked back into the case.

I'd like the benefit of cool air directly into the cpu fan though, but wouldn't in-in be kind out pointless? The top rear fan wouldn't cool a thing.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> I'm guessing you don't want the Midi's smoked window and ould rather be able to see through. That's understandable


Actually, I don't want a window at all.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> The air wouldn't circulate inside the case because of the 212 Evo and above the case I was hoping convection and the force at which it was pushed out would get rid of the hot air before it got sucked back into the case.
> 
> I'd like the benefit of cool air directly into the cpu fan though, but wouldn't in-in be kind out pointless? The top rear fan wouldn't cool a thing.


convection force is barely enough to change the flightpath of a mozzie
force of air expelled by fan is low to start with, and the filters that FD uses are not helping
result: any air expelled from one fan would be sucked in again by the other

best set them both top to IN so you've got some flow over VRMs & RAM
the evo + the rear fan will make sure its going back out


----------



## serafim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I know these aren't Monstas but now you've got another reason to be jealous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting on the new GPUs too


Nice and clean


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> convection force is barely enough to change the flightpath of a mozzie
> force of air expelled by fan is low to start with, and the filters that FD uses are not helping
> result: any air expelled from one fan would be sucked in again by the other
> 
> best set them both top to IN so you've got some flow over VRMs & RAM
> the evo + the rear fan will make sure its going back out


If that's the case I'll try switching the fans around - if the top rear is a fractal intake it'll have pretty low airflow through the filters. This would give the VRMs some cool air while not messing up the airflow of CPU->rear exhaust. It'd also mean the rear exhaust becomes a Noctua, which would have more airflow through the back grill.

I was going to experiment anyway but you've given me some ideas I wouldn't have thought of, so +rep for your troubles


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> How do you tell if they fans are being fed with true PWM signals?


If you hook up a 3pin fan on a pwm header it will always get 12v and therefore run full speed. If you can change the speed it is voltage controlled.


----------



## Beemo

Hello everyone, just stopping by to show my new case.
http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130828_123727_zps7ec20182.jpg.html

http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130828_123520_zps8badae75.jpg.html

Still have some work to do but its getting there. So far this case is amazing, very quiet, sleek and sexy. I will be needing some better fans though since the two stock and Cooler master fans I put in aren't cooling it enough for me.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> Could I get a Define R4 side panel and put it on my Arc Midi R2?


Yes indeed.


----------



## villain

The Fractal R4 is amazing. I could hear my HAF X from another room, now this one is barely audible at a distance of 2 meters. Both case fans are connected to the fan controller, running at 7 V. The NH-D14 fans are connected to the chassis fan headers for voltage regulation. My 7970 GHz is the loudest part in my case. I noticed some sort of hum/vibration at fan speeds below 30%.

The airflow seems to be very good with just the 2 stock fans. I will add another fan tomorrow and see if it can keep the temps down in games.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Hey Folks, some very nice clean systems here









I am currently awaiting delivery of a Arc Midi R2 case, and when ready, i will be transplanting my Switch 810 contents ( see sig ) into the new Fractal case. I have one question which you guys n girls may be able to help with, will my Corsair H110 280mm cooler fit in the front and still reach the cpu ?

I'm happy to mod a little if needed just so i can fit it in







Thanks in adv for suggestions


----------



## echo27fire

Mounting the rad to the front should not be a problem, though I'm not sure it will still reach the CPU. I'm trying to estimate with my H100i and it may be a little tight for the tubes. If that doesn't work though, you should be able to fit it up top but you may just barely clear the ram or any of the heat-sinks on your motherboard.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Mounting the rad to the front should not be a problem, though I'm not sure it will still reach the CPU. I'm trying to estimate with my H100i and it may be a little tight for the tubes. If that doesn't work though, you should be able to fit it up top but you may just barely clear the ram or any of the heat-sinks on your motherboard.


Hmm i guess i will have to wait and see, it won't be the end of the world i will just get something that will fit ha ha. The motherboard heat sinks are not very tall at all, the ram is a lil on the tall side though. Oooohh the excitement of the mystery


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *villain*
> 
> The Fractal R4 is amazing. I could hear my HAF X from another room, now this one is barely audible at a distance of 2 meters. Both case fans are connected to the fan controller, running at 7 V. The NH-D14 fans are connected to the chassis fan headers for voltage regulation. My 7970 GHz is the loudest part in my case. I noticed some sort of hum/vibration at fan speeds below 30%.
> 
> The airflow seems to be very good with just the 2 stock fans. I will add another fan tomorrow and see if it can keep the temps down in games.


I love this case too! It's outrageously quiet.









The humming comes from the HDD platters doing their job. Nothing we can change about it unfortunately... It's the only thing in my case that makes audible noise at idle with 5v fan speeds.


----------



## nitroxyl

*ignore please* oops, double post


----------



## VIPstudio

Hi guys, i am new on this forum and this is my first post.
Sorry for bad quality images, i will try put some bettter ones later.



CAM00052.jpg 308k .jpg file


----------



## itsskillsmcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Hi guys, i am new on this forum and this is my first post.
> Sorry for bad quality images, i will try put some bettter ones later.


Nice and clean. Looks awesome!


----------



## villain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> I love this case too! It's outrageously quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The humming comes from the HDD platters doing their job. Nothing we can change about it unfortunately... It's the only thing in my case that makes audible noise at idle with 5v fan speeds.


I'm fairly certain it's the graphics card, since the noise changes when I change the fan speed. Below 30% there's a pulsing noise.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsskillsmcgee*
> 
> Nice and clean. Looks awesome!


Thank you very much








I will try to take some high res pictures so you can see it better.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Hi guys, i am new on this forum and this is my first post.
> Sorry for bad quality images, i will try put some bettter ones later.
> 
> 
> 
> CAM00052.jpg 308k .jpg file


Looks like your photos may have answered my earlier questions of whether my H110 will fit







Nice and clean build there too


----------



## echo27fire

Sounds like your 7970 has coil whine to me.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Mechraven*
> 
> Looks like your photos may have answered my earlier questions of whether my H110 will fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and clean build there too


Thank you very much








Corsair H110 will fit in Fractal Define R4 in the front of the case, this is Push-Pull setup, with HDD in DVD bay and SSD on te back of MBO.
But radiator will go on two screws only, because on H110 the space between two fans is 20mm, and all others have 15mm spacing.
So you will have to use it on two screws (it wont fly away







), or drill 6 new holes.

In picture...
Green is where it will go original.
Red is where you must drill holes to have it on all 8 screws.
I hope this helps.


----------



## fx_fury

I mounted a 240 rad in the from with 1 set of fans in an Arc Midi R2. I am currently using the 3 slotted HDD rack but have not mounted and couldn't figure it out. I could mount it with velcro and correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that the holes do not line up. I haven't mounted a fan on the bottom so there is room there and I could drill holes but I assume they may be there already.


----------



## GingertronMk1

Might want to post your findings here.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GingertronMk1*
> 
> Might want to post your findings here.


Is this for me or?


----------



## GingertronMk1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Is this for me or?


Sorry, yeah.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair H110 will fit in Fractal Define R4 in the front of the case, this is Push-Pull setup, with HDD in DVD bay and SSD on te back of MBO.
> But radiator will go on two screws only, because on H110 the space between two fans is 20mm, and all others have 15mm spacing.
> So you will have to use it on two screws (it wont fly away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), or drill 6 new holes.
> 
> In picture...
> Green is where it will go original.
> Red is where you must drill holes to have it on all 8 screws.
> I hope this helps.


Ahhh i see , ok so a simple mod to the front fan housing it is then







i only use 2 x 140mm fans but i like things secure. In my Switch 810 the case window vibrates like mad when the fans kick up so im hoping this Arc R2 will be a little quieter. If not then i will look for an alternative cooling solution


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Sounds like your 7970 has coil whine to me.


I don't know where that came from lol.
My temporary GPU makes a hum, if I stop the fan with my finger I can't hear it anymore. It sounds like a HDD only MUCH loader, I'd always thought the noise was comming from my HDD until I uplugged it and the noise was still there.
I'd read that would happen when the fan bearing goes dry, considering it's a 3 year old OEM card from a Dell computer it's highly likely. I can't access the fan without drilling though and I'm too lazy / clumsy to attempt that so I'll leave it for now. I do have another backup GPU but it wouldn't run BF3 anywhere above 20fps on average at 720p with everything set to low when this GTS240 does double that at 1080p.

Only time I've ever heard coil whine was when running PassMark 7 with my old mutant 560 Ti (there's a part of that benchmark where you get these balls jumping about and fps was above 3000 or something crazy like that), I doubt his 7970 would suffer from it 24/7.

@VIPstudio, maybe you could stop the fans with your fingers and see if that's it ?


----------



## wickedout

Today I'll be getting my new PSU from PC Power and Cooling MkIII 750W that's going to be paired up with my white R4. Should be fun getting this up and running. Love the look of it to! It's an awesome case and well built!


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I don't know where that came from lol.
> My temporary GPU makes a hum, if I stop the fan with my finger I can't hear it anymore. It sounds like a HDD only MUCH loader, I'd always thought the noise was comming from my HDD until I uplugged it and the noise was still there.
> I'd read that would happen when the fan bearing goes dry, considering it's a 3 year old OEM card from a Dell computer it's highly likely. I can't access the fan without drilling though and I'm too lazy / clumsy to attempt that so I'll leave it for now. I do have another backup GPU but it wouldn't run BF3 anywhere above 20fps on average at 720p with everything set to low when this GTS240 does double that at 1080p.
> 
> Only time I've ever heard coil whine was when running PassMark 7 with my old mutant 560 Ti (there's a part of that benchmark where you get these balls jumping about and fps was above 3000 or something crazy like that), I doubt his 7970 would suffer from it 24/7.
> 
> @VIPstudio, maybe you could stop the fans with your fingers and see if that's it ?


Why should i stop my fans? i don't have any problems.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Why should i stop my fans? i don't have any problems.


couldn't remember who I was supposed to be talking to and instead of typing "@that bloke with the GPU humming" I took a guess. I probably guessed wrong, sorry about that


----------



## VIPstudio

No problem


----------



## echo27fire

It was 'Villian' who was having the noise issue. From what I've read 7970 is one of the worst for whine. Which is why I suggested that as a possibly. Though I guess it depends on which card it is specifically. Stopping the fan for a brief moment may help eliminate or confirm that as the problem though.


----------



## villain

I think my NH-D14 is killing the rear case fan.. The fan got really hot and started to tick.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *villain*
> 
> I think my NH-D14 is killing the rear case fan.. The fan got really hot and started to tick.


Take that brick out of the case and put some water inside man.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Take that brick out of the case and put some water inside man.


I run a closed loop, and to be honest I worry every day when is it going to leak and fry my whole system. If I had a NH-D14 I probably would run that instead, as it has no potential of destroying your entire machine. I think this is why air cooling will always remain popular. Not to mention the D14 alone stands up to some of the best closed liquid loops.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> I run a closed loop, and to be honest I worry every day when is it going to leak and fry my whole system. If I had a NH-D14 I probably would run that instead, as it has no potential of destroying your entire machine. I think this is why air cooling will always remain popular. Not to mention the D14 alone stands up to some of the best closed liquid loops.


But temps are 12 lower then NH-D14 and corsair will pay all damage that leaking do.
But, why would it leak if it's not leaking the first day of testing outside of the case?


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> But temps are 12 lower then NH-D14 and corsair will pay all damage that leaking do.
> But, why would it leak if it's not leaking the first day of testing outside of the case?


Corsairs warranty policy I heard changed, they only cover 50% of the cost of damaged hardware. I personally don't use a Corsair loop, I run the AMD FX liquid loop as AMD was generous enough to send me one for free. If I had to buy one I probably would go Corsair for at least some leak insurance. I'm not against liquid cooling at all, I love my FX loop it keeps my chip below 50C. And it makes the machine look that much cooler. It's just you have to live with that thought in your head "is it going to leaked today?". Every time I hear dripping water I gotta tear the side panel off my case.


----------



## villain

I considered a H100i with NF-F12 PWM fans, but what puts me off is that it would be a lot louder. If I open the top, my rig will collect dust twice as fast.


----------



## VIPstudio

Well, we all have our own demons in our head








If it leaks it lekas, if not, fine again.
But i like it cool


----------



## wickedout

So it sounds to me the Corsair H100 will not fit on top of the case? Is that the case?


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> So it sounds to me the Corsair H100 will not fit on top of the case? Is that the case?


Put H110 in R4.
That will fit in the front of the case.


----------



## Mysticode

Edit: Removed post. I'm a fool and posted in the wrong tab of my browser. This is what happens when you use OCN too much!


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Anyone having the weird stall/sound pause issue at Windows login?
> 
> To quote a recent post explaining this issue at rog.asus.com:
> 
> "2) The Stall or pause
> Usually after starting is when its most present, specially after windows log on screen, there is a 3-5 sec pause where i lose control of all things, and, there is also a sound on the speakers from the windows loading sound that stalls and its like a driver is not responding for a few seconds and then i regain control of my PC. There are sometimes that the stall is bigger than 5 sec, and i get a kernel nvidia driver stop responding.... so this is what im atm blaming, and that nvidia hasnt released stable drivers for the GTX780, at least as stable as the 314.22. But im not too sure yet, what this is. I didnt want to post before as im not sure this is Asus fault, but seeing so many other posting the same issues decided to post my experience also.
> 
> The pauses or not responding were much more present before i updated to 0711, before i still had it after loading windows, i open a file on hdd or a game or program and sometimes the stall/pause came back, and then nothing for hours and again. But since 0711 its only present on windows loadup, after that i dont have this issue anymore as i used to.
> "


Wrong part of forum, this is about case, not about windows.


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Wrong part of forum, this is about case, not about windows.


My case has windows.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> My case has windows.


Fractal Design Case Club


----------



## Opcode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Fractal Design Case Club


Yez, but my case have windows.

See


----------



## ACM

From HAF 932 to FDR4
Me likey









Anyone know if the NZXT X60 will fit in the top of this?

























































(Dirty Window, noticed after picture...)


----------



## VIPstudio

Nice pictures


----------



## ACM

Thanks


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACM*
> 
> From HAF 932 to FDR4
> Me likey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if the NZXT X60 will fit in the top of this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Dirty Window, noticed after picture...)


Wow ! Now those are good quality pictures







.
And the rig itself is nice and tidy







. I would've made the GPU cable comme from the same gromet as the Sata ports though, you think you can do that ?
+Rep, you did a great job at actually building the thing and you were able to perfectly capture its beauty







.

As for the Kraken, I don't know, but I'll go look around right away, you really deserve to be helped.
Oh and I'm jealous of the clear window on the R4









EDIT: so... it will barely fit in the top of an Arc Midi with a single pair of fans so no, I don't think it will fit up top of an R4. It does however fit up front in the Arc Midi but the R4 doesn't have 140mm mounting holes up front. You can just drill 6 holes though, if you don't have a drill (who doesn't ?) you could always get creative with knives, screwdrivers, etc... but it would take much longer ^^


----------



## ACM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wow ! Now those are good quality pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And the rig itself is nice and tidy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would've made the GPU cable comme from the same gromet as the Sata ports though, you think you can do that ?
> +Rep, you did a great job at actually building the thing and you were able to perfectly capture its beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for the Kraken, I don't know, but I'll go look around right away, you really deserve to be helped.
> Oh and I'm jealous of the clear window on the R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: so... it will barely fit in the top of an Arc Midi with a single pair of fans so no, I don't think it will fit up top of an R4. It does however fit up front in the Arc Midi but the R4 doesn't have 140mm mounting holes up front. You can just drill 6 holes though, if you don't have a drill (who doesn't ?) you could always get creative with knives, screwdrivers, etc... but it would take much longer ^^


Thanks for the compliments








I was messing around with the GPU cable & when I get my sleeved cable extensions I think it might look better looping from the bottom grommet giving it a natural flow. lol.

Also thank you very much on that help with the Kraken, I guess I'll just go with the X40 or a H90 (idk about the front mount, maybe if it was a custom loop with a GPU block) to keep the 140mm fans dominate in the case (screw dem 120mm!)
I tried measuring it out myself (was like 2.8" with rad & fans attached) & looked like it would be like 2-3mm over my RAM slots.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ACM*
> 
> Thanks for the compliments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was messing around with the GPU cable & when I get my sleeved cable extensions I think it might look better looping from the bottom grommet giving it a natural flow. lol.
> 
> Also thank you very much on that help with the Kraken, I guess I'll just go with the X40 or a H90 (idk about the front mount, maybe if it was a custom loop with a GPU block) to keep the 140mm fans dominate in the case (screw dem 120mm!)
> *I tried measuring it out myself (was like 2.8" with rad & fans attached) & looked like it would be like 2-3mm over my RAM slots.*


Then if somebody else could come give us their take on it it would be great. When looking around I only found people trying in Arc Midi s and saying it was a tight fit, that they'd had to mess with the OD cage or that their Ram and/or 8-pin was squashed.

EDIT: yeah, no, I still don't think it would fit.


----------



## ACM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Then if somebody else could come give us their take on it it would be great. When looking around I only found people trying in Arc Midi s and saying it was a tight fit, that they'd had to mess with the OD cage or that their Ram and/or 8-pin was squashed.
> 
> EDIT: yeah, no, I still don't think it would fit.


Oh shoot I forgot all about my 8 Pin (My H50 covers it from sight), yeah it won't work.


----------



## villain

I just replaced the rear fan of my R4. What surprised me was that Fractal didn't use rubber spacers to mount the R2 fan. Now that I mounted a Silent Wings 2 140mm with the anti-vibration kit, most if not all of the pulsating vibrations are gone. The R2 was put to good use in the front of the case.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Wow ! Now those are good quality pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And the rig itself is nice and tidy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would've made the GPU cable comme from the same gromet as the Sata ports though, you think you can do that ?
> +Rep, you did a great job at actually building the thing and you were able to perfectly capture its beauty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As for the Kraken, I don't know, but I'll go look around right away, you really deserve to be helped.
> Oh and I'm jealous of the clear window on the R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: so... it will barely fit in the top of an Arc Midi with a single pair of fans so no, I don't think it will fit up top of an R4. It does however fit up front in the Arc Midi but the R4 doesn't have 140mm mounting holes up front. You can just drill 6 holes though, if you don't have a drill (who doesn't ?) you could always get creative with knives, screwdrivers, etc... but it would take much longer ^^


You could mount it in the front with some easy modification. You would need to move the bottom hdd cage of course and drill out the little fan mounting pegs from the front bracket.I put a kraken x40 in the top front spot and was able to keep the bottom Hdd cage as is. I can barely open the front fan mount assembly though...just enough to slide out the filter for cleaning. If I was going to mount a double rad in the front I would probably just build a bracket for it so it wasn't actually attached to the front but just would sit right up there.
As you already discovered, the top won't work for one of the big nerfers, just the 2x120 rads fit up there.
That's some nice clean work btw, nice job!


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Opcode*
> 
> I worry every day when is it going to leak and fry my whole system. If I had a NH-D14 I probably would run that instead, as it has no potential of destroying your entire machine. I think this is why air cooling will always remain popular. Not to mention the D14 alone stands up to some of the best closed liquid loops.


Ya know, I had been planing to put my rig underwater. Now however I'm reconsidering. I Really don't want to deal with worrying if or when it will leak, the maintenance, and the installation. Sure, the cooling is great, but I think I will stick with CLC's for now...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You could mount it in the front with some easy modification. You would need to move the bottom hdd cage of course and drill out the little fan mounting pegs from the front bracket.I put a kraken x40 in the top front spot and was able to keep the bottom Hdd cage as is. I can barely open the front fan mount assembly though...just enough to slide out the filter for cleaning. If I was going to mount a double rad in the front I would probably just build a bracket for it so it wasn't actually attached to the front but just would sit right up there.
> As you already discovered, the top won't work for one of the big nerfers, just the 2x120 rads fit up there.
> That's some nice clean work btw, nice job!


I forgot to add that it took a while before ending up with the front mount on the kraken, but I just couldn't really get it to fit anywhere else that I was happy with. I just don't like the back exhaust spot for a rad and the thing was just too dang big to put up top.

Steelkevin, if you want a clear window, you could probably order a side panel from the define r3 to use on your midir2, or wait for the r3 to be on a ridiculous sale somewhere and get the whole case. If one had the ambition it wouldn't be too hard to cut one, maybe making it a little bigger than the original would be cool too, as to showcase more goodies.


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Well it appears i will be waiting a while longer before i can get started with re-building. The delivery clowns just dropped off my case ( quiet literally







) and this is the result









A nice big crack through the front bezel and fan mount. Plus now the front fan cover wont fit anymore. Oh and the front case foot was snapped off too.




What remains of packaging











The whole thing has damage all over it , almost like they drop kicked it for rugby practice. I was most annoyed to say the least, but a return RMA is in progress only 10 minutes after it arrived so fingers crossed i will get a new case soon. I was sooooo excited and now i wanna cry.


----------



## ACM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You could mount it in the front with some easy modification. You would need to move the bottom hdd cage of course and drill out the little fan mounting pegs from the front bracket.I put a kraken x40 in the top front spot and was able to keep the bottom Hdd cage as is. I can barely open the front fan mount assembly though...just enough to slide out the filter for cleaning. If I was going to mount a double rad in the front I would probably just build a bracket for it so it wasn't actually attached to the front but just would sit right up there.
> As you already discovered, the top won't work for one of the big nerfers, just the 2x120 rads fit up there.
> That's some nice clean work btw, nice job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I forgot to add that it took a while before ending up with the front mount on the kraken, but I just couldn't really get it to fit anywhere else that I was happy with. I just don't like the back exhaust spot for a rad and the thing was just too dang big to put up top.
> 
> Steelkevin, if you want a clear window, you could probably order a side panel from the define r3 to use on your midir2, or wait for the r3 to be on a ridiculous sale somewhere and get the whole case. If one had the ambition it wouldn't be too hard to cut one, maybe making it a little bigger than the original would be cool too, as to showcase more goodies.


I think I'm just going to stay with a single rad system like you did, but at least upgrade from my 120mm to a 140mm rad like the X40.
Thanks for all the info!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Mechraven*
> 
> Well it appears i will be waiting a while longer before i can get started with re-building. The delivery clowns just dropped off my case ( quiet literally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and this is the result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A nice big crack through the front bezel and fan mount. Plus now the front fan cover wont fit anymore. Oh and the front case foot was snapped off too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What remains of packaging
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The whole thing has damage all over it , almost like they drop kicked it for rugby practice. I was most annoyed to say the least, but a return RMA is in progress only 10 minutes after it arrived so fingers crossed i will get a new case soon. I was sooooo excited and now i wanna cry.


Unlucky mate. Hope the RMA goes smoothly. What delivery company was it?


----------



## gdubc

I have been very happy with my x40 so far. The rad isn't very thick but seems to work well and I have bgears push/pull on it, probably overkill but it works. I did get these
to replace the bgears but still haven't switched them. They are 140mm pwm but have a 120mm mount so I have to adapt them to fit the rad. It is hard to find good 140mm fans though, so I thought they would be worth the work.
Quick pics of the kraken mount. Cell pics ftw


----------



## Mr-Mechraven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Unlucky mate. Hope the RMA goes smoothly. What delivery company was it?


Yeah sometimes **** just happens, but the RMA is underway and i am awaiting the same delivery company ( Yodel btw ) to collect the case they broke and replace it. Unfortunately i have a hatred for Yodel here in UK as they break more items than anyone i know of, but sometimes it is luck of the draw who actually delivers the items, this time it was these clowns.


----------



## Saliciouscrumbs

Hmmm, I don't really like the dark tint that the Arc Midi R2 has. It's hard to see inside the glass even if you have LEDs.


----------



## ACM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have been very happy with my x40 so far. The rad isn't very thick but seems to work well and I have bgears push/pull on it, probably overkill but it works. I did get these
> to replace the bgears but still haven't switched them. They are 140mm pwm but have a 120mm mount so I have to adapt them to fit the rad. It is hard to find good 140mm fans though, so I thought they would be worth the work.
> Quick pics of the kraken mount. Cell pics ftw


Holy SATA cables Batman!
lol

Yeah I guess I'm going X40 next paycheck. I just spent 739 on a new Monitor, 2 SSDs, 2TB Media Drive, New Motherboard & some SATA cables.


----------



## gdubc

Its temporary lol. I am working on some hard drive switching in laptops/ps3s etc. so the hot swap makes it all easy!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr-Mechraven*
> 
> Yeah sometimes **** just happens, but the RMA is underway and i am awaiting the same delivery company ( Yodel btw ) to collect the case they broke and replace it. Unfortunately i have a hatred for Yodel here in UK as they break more items than anyone i know of, but sometimes it is luck of the draw who actually delivers the items, this time it was these clowns.


Thought it was Yodel.

A couple of Yodel workers regularly come into my work and brag about how they "accidentally" break parcels.

One of them said that if they see an item that says fragile on, then they will purposely damage it.

Bunch of ***holes if you ask me.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saliciouscrumbs*
> 
> Hmmm, I don't really like the dark tint that the Arc Midi R2 has. It's hard to see inside the glass even if you have LEDs.


It looks nice at first, but you quickly realise how hard it is to see anything through it. But with some decently strong LED's it should work fine - just taking the top off in my not-very-well-lit room allows me to see the components fairly well.


----------



## RnRollie

dang its a crime doing that to a nice case

then again, its the world we live in


----------



## nitroxyl

It's such a shame delivery companies don't give a crap about warnings on boxes...

Hope you can get your case problem sorted out with Yodel.


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys one question about my R4.

How do people fit aftermarket 140mm fans on the front when there are pugs that go into the fan holes that only seem to work for Fractal fans?

I want to fit A14s in the front but I'm not sure if that's possible.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys one question about my R4.
> 
> How do people fit aftermarket 140mm fans on the front when there are pugs that go into the fan holes that only seem to work for Fractal fans?
> 
> I want to fit A14s in the front but I'm not sure if that's possible.


It should be. The specs for it say it can fit 140s up front. I think the mounting is weird though and they mount to the bracket, which is removable with the filter attached.


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys one question about my R4.
> 
> How do people fit aftermarket 140mm fans on the front when there are pugs that go into the fan holes that only seem to work for Fractal fans?
> 
> I want to fit A14s in the front but I'm not sure if that's possible.


Yes you can, there are a few users who posted a few pages back with 140 rads mounted in the front.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Hey guys one question about my R4.
> 
> How do people fit aftermarket 140mm fans on the front when there are pugs that go into the fan holes that only seem to work for Fractal fans?
> 
> I want to fit A14s in the front but I'm not sure if that's possible.


You need to use a Dremel or something and shave the pegs off and drill holes. Very simple five minute job.


----------



## wickedout

Hi there everyone! It's official! I just got done putting this build together. Love this case and it's silent. Fixed from previous picture.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Hi there everyone! It's official! I just got done putting this build together. Love this case and it's silent. Here's a picture of it now!


Why did you mount our CPU cooler horizontally? Won't it take in hot air produced by your GPU?


----------



## wickedout

I'll fix it in the morning. I knew something didn't look right. Lol! Easy fix! Opps!!


----------



## wickedout

Bonehead move on my part. That's what happens when you have a party going and distractions from the little one's. Finally got everything moved over and done! This case is very solid and very quiet! Love it!


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Bonehead move on my part. That's what happens when you have a party going and distractions from the little one's. Finally got everything moved over and done! This case is very solid and very quiet! Love it!


I did the same thing - mounted it horizontally because in a moment of stupidity I thought my 212 Evo couldn't be mounted vertically


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Hi there everyone! It's official! I just got done putting this build together. Love this case and it's silent. Fixed from previous picture.


Nice, but you are missing front top fan?


----------



## Slayerik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Bonehead move on my part. That's what happens when you have a party going and distractions from the little one's. Finally got everything moved over and done! This case is very solid and very quiet! Love it!


those fans on Havik looks nice...
I'm looking for a black/white 140mm fans for quite a long time. Mainly because I want something really really quiet (even Noctua A14 could be a bit quieter for me, not to mention stock Fractal fans).
Here's my point, I want to ask, if you could somehow compare those NZXT fans with something like mentioned A14 or whatever you have? My biggest concern is noise level. Now I use two A14 FLX at 5 or 7 volts, but I want something in black/white combination for both intake and NH-D14. The biggest problem is that I want it to be even more than quiet and have a high quality bearings. Something like Noiseblocker PK1/PK2 but in black and white combination.

So if you can please put some comparation to whatever you have, I'd be thankful









also your build looks really nice!


----------



## madmeatballs

Do you guys think the Kraken X40 would fit ontop of the Core 3000? or front?


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice, but you are missing front top fan?


I'm not sure what fans I'll get for the top of the case yet. I'm really liking the NZXT fans very quiet and very efficient. I'm going to research fans later today. I'm thinking Typhoon fans. Love them but I want white and black. So let the search begin. Love this case. It's so damn awesome and tiny. My NZXT 820 is a monster and was to damn big for my room. I'll use that one for my office once that's complete.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I'm not sure what fans I'll get for the top of the case yet. I'm really liking the NZXT fans very quiet and very efficient. I'm going to research fans later today. I'm thinking Typhoon fans. Love them but I want white and black. So let the search begin. Love this case. It's so damn awesome and tiny. My NZXT 820 is a monster and was to damn big for my room. I'll use that one for my office once it's complete.


I have Fractal 1000rpm with 9v adapter, can't hear them at all, i have 8 fans in my case and it's still silent.
But i have put some liquid on fan spining bolt to silent them even more.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slayerik*
> 
> those fans on Havik looks nice...
> I'm looking for a black/white 140mm fans for quite a long time. Mainly because I want something really really quiet (even Noctua A14 could be a bit quieter for me, not to mention stock Fractal fans).
> Here's my point, I want to ask, if you could somehow compare those NZXT fans with something like mentioned A14 or whatever you have? My biggest concern is noise level. Now I use two A14 FLX at 5 or 7 volts, but I want something in black/white combination for both intake and NH-D14. The biggest problem is that I want it to be even more than quiet and have a high quality bearings. Something like Noiseblocker PK1/PK2 but in black and white combination.
> 
> So if you can please put some comparation to whatever you have, I'd be thankful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also your build looks really nice!


I'm a huge fan of Scythe Gentle Typhoon that I've used in the past. Only thing is their loud compared to those NZXT fans. Those seems to work great. Might pick me up 3 more of them to finish off my front and top mount fans.


----------



## gdubc

The nzxt pwm fan that came with the kraken x40 is anything but quiet. I wanted push/pull so I bought bgears and mounted on it instead. They are 3 pin and run at full speed off my Asus cpu header. I wanted to try to use the nzxt fan still as it is pwm (thinking at the time that my formula board had multiple pwm headers) but it was so loud, (I could easily hear it over the bgears running full speed) I had to take it out.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I'm not sure what fans I'll get for the top of the case yet. I'm really liking the NZXT fans very quiet and very efficient. I'm going to research fans later today. I'm thinking Typhoon fans. Love them but I want white and black. So let the search begin. Love this case. It's so damn awesome and tiny. My NZXT 820 is a monster and was to damn big for my room. I'll use that one for my office once that's complete.


swiftech helix fans are b&w i think, too bad no noiseblocker eloops in 140 yet


----------



## Beemo

Hello everyone I am looking replace the fans in my R4 to some better cooling fans. Currently I have the two stock fans in the front and two Corsair 120mm's, one in the bottom as intake and one at the rear as exhaust. I want to replace them all with these, I think I have to remove the pins for the front fans and that's fine, is there anything that I am missing? I like these fans for the color, performance reviews and they are PWM controlled since I will be using the Swiftech PWM controller/splitter.

Thanks


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beemo*
> 
> Hello everyone I am looking replace the fans in my R4 to some better cooling fans. Currently I have the two stock fans in the front and two Corsair 120mm's, one in the bottom as intake and one at the rear as exhaust. I want to replace them all with these, I think I have to remove the pins for the front fans and that's fine, is there anything that I am missing? I like these fans for the color, performance reviews and they are PWM controlled since I will be using the Swiftech PWM controller/splitter.
> 
> Thanks


They do have good airflow. Not quiet at full speed.
Horizontal mounting caused some bad ticking noise.


----------



## Beemo

Hmm, that's not too good, I was hoping I didn't have to go the Pootua route but I guess I will. Thanks


----------



## Abula

Sadly there are not that many options for 140mm PWM fans, The only two that i would consider good are,

Noctua NF-A14 PWM - Imo one of the best fans out there, on PWM they can drop extremely low, specially if you have Asus FanXpert2, you can drop them to around 250rpm virtually inaudible and you can ramp them to 1600rpm where they move tons of air but at the expense of noise, here a curve of them on it,

 

The other that i was considering, was Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PK-PS (400-1500rpm) , i have very good experience with a couple Noiseblocker PK3 and one PK1, i like the looks and they were pretty decent, if the pwm is similar to my Noiseblocker NB-BlackSilentPro PLPS (600-1500), it should be pretty good option, the only bad thing about them is that the way that Noiseblocker design them they are controllable from 0%-100%, but this can be bad if you dont have something like FanXpert2, as some bios do have limitations, for example my Asus Maximus VI gene has 40% restricition on bios, other motherboards have 20% on PWM, MSI has 12.5% as their minimum from what i remember on Z87, Gigabyte i have no idea, so this is something to take into account. Either here is FanXpert of my Noiseblocker NB BlacksilentPro PLPS,


----------



## VIPstudio

Look at Akasa Apache or Akasa Viper series 140mm, they are nice performance fans with low noise.


----------



## Raephen

Hi everyone!

I modded the Define Mini I owm today and gave it a window.

It houses my HTPC and sits in a kabinet below my tv.

So why give it a window, you ask? For practise, really.

I was a dremel-virgin up until today, and before I started hacking away at my Phantom 630, I wanted to try something a bit smaller for starters.

I took some pictures of the work in progress and the end result and wanted to share them.

Enjoy!







PS - You could say I'm all thumbs, so I'm pretty stoked about the end result. The minor scratches still visible could easily be hidden by some deeper u-mold.

Next up for this case is an NZXT led strip.


----------



## gdubc

Good work!


----------



## air tree

Does anyone know if the front door on the define r4 would close if i had a nzxt hue in it?


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Does anyone know if the front door on the define r4 would close if i had a nzxt hue in it?


Seeing that the knobs protrude out a bit, it might not close... or they may leave a mark on your foam at best.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *air tree*
> 
> Does anyone know if the front door on the define r4 would close if i had a nzxt hue in it?


Yes, it will close.

Only thing is you'll see circles in the foam when you open the door. Somebody posted a picture a while back.

Found it:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackskyDK*
> 
> It doesn't prevent the door from closing, it will however touch the foam on the door, and leave a little bit of a mark on the foam.


----------



## air tree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Yes, it will close.
> 
> Only thing is you'll see circles in the foam when you open the door. Somebody posted a picture a while back.
> 
> Found it:


Well that's good, those little marks wont hurt anything!


----------



## [email protected]

>503976801
Nothing to see here


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Well I'll be damned


----------



## Leader

Define R4 Titanium Grey Windowed


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> >503976801
> Nothing to see here


huh?


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michael-ocn*
> 
> huh?


----------



## wickedout

I wish Noctua made B&W fans! Their fans are the best. So far I'm loving my new R4 case. It's so quiet. Still on the fence on what fans to get for the top of case and the one for the front. Decisions, decisions & more decisions!!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I wish Noctua made B&W fans! Their fans are the best. So far I'm loving my new R4 case. It's so quiet. Still on the fence on what fans to get for the top of case and the one for the front. Decisions, decisions & more decisions!!


I'm using all Noctua NF-A14 PWM. No annoying PWM ticking noise.
I know my money is well spent.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Define R4 Titanium Grey Windowed


Is your Golden Green blocking your bottom fan? Since it is 170mm long, will it hit the 120mm fan holes?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

120mm fan will fit. it only blocked the 140mm holes.


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I'm using all Noctua NF-A14 PWM. No annoying PWM ticking noise.
> I know my money is well spent.


Those Noctua's look great in your rig. That color doesn't do well for me in my case. I want B & W fans. I'm leaning towards Fractal Design fans or NXZT fans. Not sure yet. More research to do later.


----------



## ds84

I can presume that the bottom internal layout would be similar to the arc midi r2. So, if i get the Super Flower Golden Green 850w with length of 180mm, it should not block the 120mm holes?

Hope to hear from someone with arc midi r2, best is if you could do some simple measurements for me... Thanks a lot.


----------



## gdubc

Here you go ....in arc midi r2.
Edit: realized how crappy that pic was...the holes are at the 190mm mark.


----------



## ds84

Thanks a lot.... made my decision-making a lot more easier.


----------



## gdubc

No problem....I was looking for an excuse to pull it back out of the box!


----------



## ds84

Seems like a 160mm PSU + cables would fit in nicely, with a bottom fan attached. 180mm psu would be cutting it a lot, with the cables included...


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know its a crappy cell pick but this is the 160mm ax860i in a define r4 with a 140mm fan in bottom.


Lol...this is from a while back and its in a define r4 with a 140mm fan. Basically the same case.


----------



## Seid Dark

I have Arc Midi 1 with AX860i PSU. There's Corsair AF140mm fan in the bottom fan slot, it's very tight fit but I managed to install it. It's easier if modular connectors for cables are positioned higher than the fan.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I can presume that the bottom internal layout would be similar to the arc midi r2. So, if i get the Super Flower Golden Green 850w with length of 180mm, it should not block the 120mm holes?
> 
> Hope to hear from someone with arc midi r2, best is if you could do some simple measurements for me... Thanks a lot.


What do you need 850 watts for?


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> What do you need 850 watts for?


770 sli...I know 750w is the bare minimum... but if i slight OC them, will 750w be enough? plenty of ppl recommend 850w..


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> 770 sli...I know 750w is the bare minimum... but if i slight OC them, will 750w be enough? plenty of ppl recommend 850w..


850 watts is way overkill you could have 3 GTX 770 cards on a 850 watts


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 850 watts is way overkill you could have 3 GTX 770 cards on a 850 watts


Maybe. I've always been of the opinion to give my rig lots of "breathing room" power-wise.

I use a CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 1000w for my sig rig (2x 680's SLI) which equates to lots of overhead, putting minimal strain on the PSU

....but that's just my opinion.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Maybe. I've always been of the opinion to give my rig lots of "breathing room" power-wise.
> 
> I use a CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 1000w for my sig rig (2x 680's SLI) which equates to lots of overhead, putting minimal strain on the PSU
> 
> ....but that's just my opinion.


Sure its not bad having extra but more then 200 watts extra and its just overkill


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 850 watts is way overkill you could have 3 GTX 770 cards on a 850 watts
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe. I've always been of the opinion to give my rig lots of "breathing room" power-wise.
> 
> I use a CoolerMaster Silent Pro Gold 1000w for my sig rig (2x 680's SLI) which equates to lots of overhead, putting minimal strain on the PSU
> 
> ....but that's just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Too much headroom is kinda bad which results in extra heat as the PSU tries to keep lower wattage. In your system, you not going more than 400-500w. Your stress load will vary.
Your headroom is beyond 200w, 60-70% range is what I like to be in for a sweet spot.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> 850 watts is way overkill you could have 3 GTX 770 cards on a 850 watts


So a 750w would b sufficient if my cpu is i5-4570 and i'm doing light overclocking without touching the voltage on my gpu? Even when im playing high end games at ultra with no/2x AA max?

Btw, what psu are you using?


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Too much headroom is kinda bad which results in extra heat as the PSU tries to keep lower wattage. In your system, you not going more than 400-500w. Your stress load will vary.
> Your headroom is beyond 200w, 60-70% range is what I like to be in for a sweet spot.


As a note most PSU's run "best" around 50-60% load level but also a lot of the time only the higher end PSU's have enough quality ampage per line regardless of the actual wattage for SLI/Crossfire


----------



## Hawxie

I'm puzzled here, what is the material used in the Define cases to dampen sound and/or vibration called?
I'm kinda wanting more.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Too much headroom is kinda bad which results in extra heat as the PSU tries to keep lower wattage. In your system, you not going more than 400-500w. Your stress load will vary.
> Your headroom is beyond 200w, 60-70% range is what I like to be in for a sweet spot.


I'm thinking about getting duel 780's soon. However, I'm not sure my PSU is enough. (AX 760). Various wattage calculators say I need between 840-1200 watts min. So I can see why people buy PSUs with more wattage they they will ever use.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> I'm thinking about getting duel 780's soon. However, I'm not sure my PSU is enough. (AX 760). Various wattage calculators say I need between 840-1200 watts min. So I can see why people buy PSUs with more wattage they they will ever use.


You dont need that much you can keep your AX760

Getting real tried of those damm calculators

They are often wrong either to sell you a bigger PSU or to cover all the crappy ones that cant do their rated wattage

A system with two video cards and overclocks will almost never go above 600 watts from the wall no matter what


----------



## Moragg

I would look at some reviews for your card and find the OCed Furmark power draw. Add those to the rest of your system max power draw, add 100W to be on the safe side and you'd be all set to go.

Furmark draws such a ridiculous amount of power that this should give you waaay more than enough headroom. I would take the additional headroom though for benching - my rubbish PSU can't handel simultaneous Furmark + P95, which is something I plan to rectify in a year or two with my next rig.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> I'm thinking about getting duel 780's soon. However, I'm not sure my PSU is enough. (AX 760). Various wattage calculators say I need between 840-1200 watts min. So I can see why people buy PSUs with more wattage they they will ever use.


AX760 is more then enough. These PSU calculators are annoying, which makes people buy more then they need, and not even close to accurate. Even some reviews are way off.
Just now my system with P95+Furmark is 308w is only happens with CPU+GPU is 100% stress. Under normal usage, like gaming 200-250w. Varies with game I play, like GW2 is 220w.
I'm not even using 50% of my AX650. I can add another GTX670 and wont even break 400w.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> AX760 is more then enough. These PSU calculators are annoying, which makes people buy more then they need, and not even close to accurate. Even some reviews are way off.
> Just now my system with P95+Furmark is 308w is only happens with CPU+GPU is 100% stress. Under normal usage, like gaming 200-250w. Varies with game I play, like GW2 is 220w.
> I'm not even using 50% of my AX650. I can add another GTX670 and wont even break 400w.


That's good news to me. I really don't want to upgrade my power supply. The video above and the wattage of the 580 vs. the 780 seems to confirm.


----------



## LazarusIV

Hey all, quick WC question. How much of a pain is it to fit a 360mm rad up top in my Arc Midi? I know I won't be able to use the Optical drive bays and such, what I want to know is the extent of case modding. Is it a quick cut, involved, easy, etc. Thanks all!


----------



## stickg1

Just drill a couple holes for screws and possibly cut out some metal for better ventilation.


----------



## mphfrom77

Well I can't get my graphics card to sit properly with my case and motherboard.

Fractal Design XL R2, EVGA GTX 780 Classified, Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H (full atx).

The bracketing from the graphics card and the case will not line up enough to allow the proper seating of the graphics card into the motherboard pci-e slot. Kind of frustrating. I'm having trouble figuring out a way to make it work.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mphfrom77*
> 
> Well I can't get my graphics card to sit properly with my case and motherboard.
> 
> Fractal Design XL R2, EVGA GTX 780 Classified, Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H (full atx).
> 
> The bracketing from the graphics card and the case will not line up enough to allow the proper seating of the graphics card into the motherboard pci-e slot. Kind of frustrating. I'm having trouble figuring out a way to make it work.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks.


I would check on the mobo if it is correctly placed. That would be the main reason.


----------



## mphfrom77

Yeah the motherboard is in the correct ATX slots. It actually almost fits in. It is just like an 1/8 inch too high or something. I can slightly bend the bracketing on the graphics card to where it fits, but then I can't screw the bracketing into the proper screw holes for the case slot.

I can get the graphics card in like half way, but the side closer to the case slot raises up because the bracketing seating is just too high.

Edit- this guy here claims it could be improper standoffs. Taller standoffs would certainly help me I would imagine.

http://www.amazon.com/review/R1KJJ3ATBMEPZA/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R1KJJ3ATBMEPZA

And then another reviewer on Amazon's site says the same, "They include the wrong size motherboard standoffs so when you plug in PCI-E devices like a graphics card it will not seat all the way into the slot causing it not to be recognized. Also the headhone/microphone front panel port connector is defective. These are known issues that you can do a quick google search to see all the people having problems. The solution is to email customer service and then wait for them to send you a XL R2 Fixed Standoff and Cable Kit that includes new standoffs that are the right height and an adapter that you plug on to your front panel connector so it will work correctly as well as a free 140mm fan for compensation. It took more than a week from when I first emailed Fractal to receive the new kit."

That's 2 out of 14 reviews. I purchased mine from Microcenter, so I am not sure how long they had it sitting around.

Pretty frustrating. I was really looking forward to doing some stuff with my graphics card.

Has no one else had this problem?

Pretty darn mad here, now that I believe that this is my problem. I waited to decide on the gpu. Then I waited until my off days to install it. Now I have to wait for until Fractal is open, or wait to receive a reply from them, then wait until they ship me the proper standoffs.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I would remove everything and make sure all the standoffs are correctly done and placed.
Make sure the mobo is correctly lined up with the I/O shield. Seen it where it is off slightly and the rest is an issue.
Seen some reviews with that issue, but nothing 100%. The people that are having this problem is very small.


----------



## mphfrom77

This issue is not that the graphics card and the motherboard don't line up. The issue is that the motherboard does not sit high enough up to allow the card to rest proper in the the case slot and in the pci slot.

Yeah the I/O shield fitting wasn't a proper fit as well, but it was basically a non-issue. But now that you mention it, it now makes sense to me why I was concerned that the fitment did not seem proper at the time I installed it. So that makes sense to me now.

I don't see how taking the motherboard out and re-installing it would benefit me, but thanks for the suggestion. I can't think of a way why the 9 standoffs are creating a 1/8 to 2/8 of an inch gap in my fitment here. Based off other people having the exact same problem, I am definitely leaning majorly to the problem being improper standoff parts.

14% of reviewers at Amazon had this problem. Add me and that brings it up to 20%.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> I modded the Define Mini I owm today and gave it a window.
> It houses my HTPC and sits in a kabinet below my tv.
> So why give it a window, you ask? For practise, really.
> I was a dremel-virgin up until today, and before I started hacking away at my Phantom 630, I wanted to try something a bit smaller for starters.
> I took some pictures of the work in progress and the end result and wanted to share them.
> Enjoy!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS - You could say I'm all thumbs so I'm pretty stoked about the end result. The minor scratches still visible could easily be hidden by some deeper u-mold.
> Next up for this case is an NZXT led strip.


Clean window mod. Perfect size for the mini.


----------



## SclerosiS

A liitle update. Removed the polysterene i used for the front and put 4mm acrylic which i otdered to be laser cutted where the fans will be. Only sprayed it flat black and mounted it with double-sided tape








. Also put an Evo 212.


----------



## 352227

What I have in my Fractal Design R4 Arctic White Case:

- Achieva Shimian QH2700 2560 x 1440 Monitor (this isn't in the case!)
- ASUS GTX 670 DirectCU II Graphics Card (may try SLI soon)
- Asus Sabertooth Z87 Motherboard
- Intel i7-4770k CPU
- OCZ PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk III 850W PSU
- Samsung 840 Pro 128GB SSD
- Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler
- Seagate Barracuda 3TB HDD
- G Skill Trident X 16GB RAM
- Windows 8 64 Bit OS
- Microsoft Comfort Desktop 5000 Wireless Keyboard & Mouse
- TP-LINK TL-WDN4800 N900 450mb/s Wifi Card
- Fractal Design 140mm x 4 Case Fans
- Asus DRW-24B5ST DVD/CD RW

I'll put photos up later, well slick machine!! AI Suite 3 is great to work with. Have all fans running whisper quiet with the case under positive pressure so no dust gets in!


----------



## kyismaster

keep forgetting to post here

sponsored case by fractal:






its a WIP

Im working on getting acrylic tubing + rigid acrylic fittings.


----------



## stickg1

Arc Midi R2


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Arc Midi R2


Mmm, I see some AF120's how are the temps/ sound levels on em?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> Mmm, I see some AF120's how are the temps/ sound levels on em?


SP120 high's in push/pull on the front rad (Black Ice GT 240mm)

Not nearly as loud as my Thermalright 120mm High's in push on the top rad (XSPC RS240mm)

I control all 6 fans on the Fractals stock front panel fan controller and typically keep it on 7v.


----------



## mphfrom77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mphfrom77*
> 
> Well I can't get my graphics card to sit properly with my case and motherboard.
> 
> Fractal Design XL R2, EVGA GTX 780 Classified, Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H (full atx).
> 
> The bracketing from the graphics card and the case will not line up enough to allow the proper seating of the graphics card into the motherboard pci-e slot. Kind of frustrating. I'm having trouble figuring out a way to make it work.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would check on the mobo if it is correctly placed. That would be the main reason.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mphfrom77*
> 
> Yeah the motherboard is in the correct ATX slots. It actually almost fits in. It is just like an 1/8 inch too high or something. I can slightly bend the bracketing on the graphics card to where it fits, but then I can't screw the bracketing into the proper screw holes for the case slot.
> 
> I can get the graphics card in like half way, but the side closer to the case slot raises up because the bracketing seating is just too high.
> 
> Edit- this guy here claims it could be improper standoffs. Taller standoffs would certainly help me I would imagine.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/review/R1KJJ3ATBMEPZA/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R1KJJ3ATBMEPZA
> 
> And then another reviewer on Amazon's site says the same, "They include the wrong size motherboard standoffs so when you plug in PCI-E devices like a graphics card it will not seat all the way into the slot causing it not to be recognized. Also the headhone/microphone front panel port connector is defective. These are known issues that you can do a quick google search to see all the people having problems. The solution is to email customer service and then wait for them to send you a XL R2 Fixed Standoff and Cable Kit that includes new standoffs that are the right height and an adapter that you plug on to your front panel connector so it will work correctly as well as a free 140mm fan for compensation. It took more than a week from when I first emailed Fractal to receive the new kit."
> 
> That's 2 out of 14 reviews. I purchased mine from Microcenter, so I am not sure how long they had it sitting around.
> 
> Pretty frustrating. I was really looking forward to doing some stuff with my graphics card.
> 
> Has no one else had this problem?
> 
> Pretty darn mad here, now that I believe that this is my problem. I waited to decide on the gpu. Then I waited until my off days to install it. Now I have to wait for until Fractal is open, or wait to receive a reply from them, then wait until they ship me the proper standoffs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would remove everything and make sure all the standoffs are correctly done and placed.
> Make sure the mobo is correctly lined up with the I/O shield. Seen it where it is off slightly and the rest is an issue.
> Seen some reviews with that issue, but nothing 100%. The people that are having this problem is very small.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mphfrom77*
> 
> This issue is not that the graphics card and the motherboard don't line up. The issue is that the motherboard does not sit high enough up to allow the card to rest proper in the the case slot and in the pci slot.
> 
> Yeah the I/O shield fitting wasn't a proper fit as well, but it was basically a non-issue. But now that you mention it, it now makes sense to me why I was concerned that the fitment did not seem proper at the time I installed it. So that makes sense to me now.
> 
> I don't see how taking the motherboard out and re-installing it would benefit me, but thanks for the suggestion. I can't think of a way why the 9 standoffs are creating a 1/8 to 2/8 of an inch gap in my fitment here. Based off other people having the exact same problem, I am definitely leaning majorly to the problem being improper standoff parts.
> 
> 14% of reviewers at Amazon had this problem. Add me and that brings it up to 20%.


A little update in hopes that this might possibly help someone in the future.

This seems to have been a minor problem Fractal had this past year when shipping the XL R2. But they realized it at some point and now ship these cases with the proper standoffs. The guy I spoke with at Fractal was a nice guy. He believed there really shouldn't be many cases still out there with this issue. But with me purchasing from a physical store, Microcenter, there really is no telling how long my case had been there.

But it was indeed a problem that they are aware of. So much so that they have a special "kit" in stock ready to ship to customers that have purchased one of these cases. The kit actually has a name..."XL Standoff Kit". It comes with the proper sized motherboard standoffs, as well as a new cabling for the front microphone and headset headers (because apparently these have been wired incorrectly where the headset is where the microphone is supposed to go and vice versa)...and then Fractal throws in an extra 140mm fan as compensation for the hassle.

I didn't ask for anything extra, because the guy was pretty darn nice and he had this kit shipped to me asap. I think it will arrive by Wednesday, (today is a Friday). But honestly I would have felt better if I also got a total of 3 fans for my hassle...lol. I mean I was pretty darn upset. I think mainly though because I still tried so hard to just get it to work, not knowing there was a motherboard standoff issue. It got a little scary, especially considering how much I had spent on my gpu, and just the whole build. Me wrestling around with it trying to get it to fit. Honestly I am surprised I didn't rip out my pci-e lane. I credit Gigabyte with a good design there as to why that did not occur. I hope I didn't shock anything in the process.

Having said this, I have been really impressed with this case. It seems like a really solid case. For me, with this being my first build, I really don't think the XL R2 is really all that big. To me, the size seems just right. I'm sure others might think it is very, very big, but I think it is a nice size. It seems very well built.

But it is just a shame that they had this oversight with them shipping the wrong standoffs, and mixing up the cabling for the front audio headers (I actually haven't checked mine yet, but I understand it has been a problem for others and Fractal had to come out with a special kit which included the correct audio wiring...to me the reversed microphone / headphone is not a big deal though).

Hopefully I get the kit in and can put everything together correctly this time so that I can enjoy doing stuff with my graphics card.


----------



## AKB75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*


*Установка реобаса в корпус Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl*








http://yadi.sk/d/myMtgfL48rtmg
(65 mb)
*Fractal Design Define R4.Жидкая решетка на дне*








http://yadi.sk/d/r_M13Tkw8_MWl
(90 mb)


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Arc Midi R2


What did you mount the reservoir to?


----------



## 161029

Really wish the Midi and Mini R2 came with a solid side panel option.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turt1e*
> 
> What did you mount the reservoir to?


The screw for the mount goes into one of the fan mount holes on the front rad.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKB75*
> 
> *Установка реобаса в корпус Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://yadi.sk/d/myMtgfL48rtmg
> (65 mb)
> *Fractal Design Define R4.Жидкая решетка на дне*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://yadi.sk/d/r_M13Tkw8_MWl
> (90 mb)


lol, oddly I don't have that problem in my case, you should maybe speak to a fractal rep about that o.o

they might send you a new case out of spite.


----------



## AKB75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> lol, oddly I don't have that problem in my case, you should maybe speak to a fractal rep about that o.o
> 
> they might send you a new case out of spite.


I wrote them now the letter


----------



## manner

Edit: Wrong Thread


----------



## DJKAY

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manner*
> 
> After seeing a few of the systems in here and the form factor I decided to go ahead and create a machine like this. I reviewed the thread carefully (hundreds of pages oh god) and think I have a solid setup for creating a low profile 1080p game, movie, porn and occasional work system. The only part I have yet to purchase is a video card since I am still deciding which would be the best for this case. I included a part list with annotations for part selections.
> 
> PCPartPicker part list for: Super Charged© Monster™ Fractal Design 340 (Powered by BEATS BY DRE™ Edition)
> 
> *CPU:* Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $229.99)
> No Brainer
> *CPU Cooler:* Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $78.49)
> After reviewing several air and all-in-one (I have bad mojo with water cooling) I believe that for the best noise and cooling performance for such a small system. The size is worrying me a little bit but I think the only concession I have to make is I am unable to use the sound card for my processor which isn't a deal breaker if it results in top notch cooling (not really an audiophile and my Denon D2000s are fine as is)
> *Motherboard:* Asus MAXIMUS VI IMPACT Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard (Purchased For $237.55)
> Pricey, but with the sheer amount of features and lack of any optical spots in this case I decided that this was the best backbone to have for a gaming-focused 304.
> *Memory:* Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (Purchased For $74.99)
> Couldn't find any RAM with LEDs, giant fins and pictures of Macho Man Randy Savage so I had to settle with this
> *Storage:* Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (Purchased For $182.99)
> Right now for price per GB and performance I think the 840 EVO is a leader. I thought about going for the 840 Pro series but there wasn't a giant enough difference to justify the premium. I know this is a relatively new drive and I am gambling on Samsung to stay reliable.
> *Video Card:* MSI Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($272.86 @ Newegg)
> This is the only part of the build I have not purchased yet since I am wondering if this card will fit into a 340 case. If it does then its a really easy choice since its 270, comes with 3 free games and is a powerhouse for a case of this size.
> *Case:* Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case (Purchased For $54.99)
> Too impatient to wait for white (like much of this thread)
> *Case Fan:* 2x Noctua NF-A9x14 29.7 CFM 92mm Fan (Purchased For $35.58)
> Besides them being awesome fans, I just want everything to match since they are a unique (**** brown) color
> *Power Supply:* Fractal Design Integra R2 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply (Purchased For $68.74)
> Went for an odd choice here but im hoping that this power supply will be sufficient and has a form factor that will fit into this case. I have a feeling I should of just got a seasonic g but if this supply works its all good.
> *Monitor:* Asus VN248H 23.8" Monitor (Purchased For $149.99)
> 150 for an 23.8 IPS monitor? Don't mind if I do!
> *Total:* $1386.17
> 
> Hoping that I didn't make hundreds of mistakes assembling this but once all of the parts are shipped I will post pictures of the rig (going to run around 50 feet of christmas lights in the entire case, spray paint it and super glue a picture of biggie smalls on the top of the case)






This sounds great! Waiting to see your Pictures.








BTW; I share your thoughts on that PSU....

If you guys didn´t see TTL´s Review of the ARC XL, take a look.
He goes really in deep and gives many Ideas what you could do with that case. So cheers


----------



## maxforces

Second computer (AMD system)


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxforces*
> 
> Second computer (AMD system)


Hey man loving the white - you should consider the OCZ Silencer MK III - I have it in mine and it is so slickkkkkkkk

http://www.pcpower.com/products/description/Silencer_Mk_III_850W/


----------



## BookerCZ

Hi ! This is my Fractal Define R4.

I have i5 - 3570, HD 7870 XT BOOST, 8GB RAM, Asus P8B75-M, 1 TB WD Blue and SSD Intel 330 Series 60GB.


----------



## gdubc

Nzxt has some white psus also that are fully modular. They look nice and have a full 24pin on the psu side, but I don't know how they are quality/performance wise.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Nzxt has some white psus also that are fully modular. They look nice and have a full 24pin on the psu side, but I don't know how they are quality/performance wise.


The NZXT HALE 90 V1 is Super Flower Goden Green based and are very good but pretty underrated

The NZXT HALE 90 V2 is a custom made FSP unit made just for NZXT its priced a bit high but its very good

The NZXT HALE 82 V2 is a HighPower made unit but with no reviews yet i dont know much about it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1392001/nzxt-power-supplies-information-thread

There are other white units like Fractal Design´s own Newton R3

And the PC Power and Cooling Silencer MK III 750/850 watts which are Super Flower Golden Green based units

Aerocool has one as well but i would not touch that one


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BookerCZ*
> 
> Hi ! This is my Fractal Define R4.
> 
> I have i5 - 3570, HD 7870 XT BOOST, 8GB RAM, Asus P8B75-M, 1 TB WD Blue and SSD Intel 330 Series 60GB.


Excellent case choice!









Welcome to OCN and the Fractal Design Case Club!


----------



## BookerCZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Excellent case choice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to OCN and the Fractal Design Case Club!


Thank you very much !!


----------



## karupt

Does anyone use the SSD mount on the back of the R4?

I currently have my SSDs in the drive cage, and I'm considering putting it behind the mobo tray, but I'm worried about them getting hot behind there.


----------



## BookerCZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Does anyone use the SSD mount on the back of the R4?
> 
> I currently have my SSDs in the drive cage, and I'm considering putting it behind the mobo tray, but I'm worried about them getting hot behind there.


Hi, I tried it, but SSD remained in the drive cage.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Does anyone use the SSD mount on the back of the R4?
> 
> I currently have my SSDs in the drive cage, and I'm considering putting it behind the mobo tray, but I'm worried about them getting hot behind there.


SSDs don't get hot, SSDs don't make noise and SDDs are fast as hell.

The problem doing that would be the case itself. While I love my Arc Midi R2, I hate that you have to remove the motherboard to use those mounts, that's poor design and they could've easily made it work otherwise.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Does anyone use the SSD mount on the back of the R4?
> 
> I currently have my SSDs in the drive cage, and I'm considering putting it behind the mobo tray, but I'm worried about them getting hot behind there.


SSDs were design more for laptops where there is very little airflow, even on my TJ08-E, i have it installed on the bottom of the case and a cage on top of it, so there is no airflow on my Samsung 840pro, here is my temps while running crystal disk mark,



I think you should be fine on the back, the CPU socket is still far away, the slots are closer to the PCIe, Check this build, [Build Log] Arc Under Water (Bitspower, EK, Alphacool, and all that jazz), he went with dual SSD on the back of the case,



Still monitor your temps, and see if it works out for you.


----------



## catbuster

any1 found adaptors to mount ssd's on the back of R4? so u could easily swap them without removing mobo?







saw 1 member to make some himself, but dont have such tools


----------



## gdubc

Just use velcro strips.


----------



## Beemo

Just wondering, When I put my SSD behind the MOBO the PSU plug was too big to fit smoothly into the SSD, once mounted I was worried that the plug would break since it was strained. Do you guys use washers or stand-offs with longer screws or does my PSU just have too thick of a plug?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beemo*
> 
> Just wondering, When I put my SSD behind the MOBO the PSU plug was too big to fit smoothly into the SSD, once mounted I was worried that the plug would break since it was strained. Do you guys use washers or stand-offs with longer screws or does my PSU just have too thick of a plug?


If you psu dont have flat ending sata power, you coudl go with an extension like NZXT CB-SATA-11P 300mm Individually Sleeved SATA Power Extension Premium Cable (Black)


----------



## Beemo

Thanks much I didn't think something like that was available.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> 
> This sounds great! Waiting to see your Pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW; I share your thoughts on that PSU....
> 
> If you guys didn´t see TTL´s Review of the ARC XL, take a look.
> He goes really in deep and gives many Ideas what you could do with that case. So cheers


god i think i have to buy this case


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> any1 found adaptors to mount ssd's on the back of R4? so u could easily swap them without removing mobo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> saw 1 member to make some himself, but dont have such tools


You could glue two strips of acrylic with some holes on each side exactly 2.5inch apart, and 8mm deep, I mean I can glue on my hard drive cage from my lenovo and it would fit perfectly but I have an ITX in this case so its not a problem. lol


----------



## Kimir

Because I didn't wanted to have anything bonded to my ssds, I use the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter and put the strap of them.









sorry for phone pic.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Because I didn't wanted to have anything bonded to my ssds, I use the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter and put the strap of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for phone pic.


Nice SSD's

But man, cable management, really? Inside and outside of the case...
And why did you mount two 120mm fans on top of Define R4?
That's a crime man. Buy some 140mm fans.


----------



## Kimir

That's some old pic, cable management is better today.
And the 2x120 on top, answer in my sig







(watercooling, if you are lazy) I'm also gonna change the 2x140 in front for 2x120, same reason.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> That's some old pic, cable management is better today.
> And the 2x120 on top, answer in my sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (watercooling, if you are lazy) I'm also gonna change the 2x140 in front for 2x120, same reason.


Then buy some 280mm radiators man, that's still a crime. Putting 120mm on Define R4, crime against Fractal Design and better air flow.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Because I didn't wanted to have anything bonded to my ssds, I use the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter and put the strap of them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry for phone pic.


this setup looks kewl







does ocz include them or u can buy them separately?


----------



## VIPstudio

Like this man


----------



## Mysticode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> AX760 is more then enough. These PSU calculators are annoying, which makes people buy more then they need, and not even close to accurate. Even some reviews are way off.
> Just now my system with P95+Furmark is 308w is only happens with CPU+GPU is 100% stress. Under normal usage, like gaming 200-250w. Varies with game I play, like GW2 is 220w.
> I'm not even using 50% of my AX650. I can add another GTX670 and wont even break 400w.


How are you pulling these watt calcuations? Thanks.

Also here is my build in my R4. Working to clean up the molex cables (not much room to hide them... ideas?)


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> How are you pulling these watt calcuations? Thanks.
> 
> Also here is my build in my R4. Working to clean up the molex cables (not much room to hide them... ideas?)


For what are you using those molex connectors in the front?
Thats crime also.
And put those SSDs in back of motherboard, and remove lower HDD cage.


----------



## Mysticode

The fan controller need 1 molex connection... I did not know of a better way to route it. It's a short run cable from the fan controller.

There's not really enough room on the back mobo for holding the SSDs


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> The fan controller need 1 molex connection... I did not know of a better way to route it. It's a short run cable from the fan controller.
> 
> There's not really enough room on the back mobo for holding the SSDs


Yeah you say that, but bear in mind that we all have the same case and we all manage to do it. So....

Maybe it will just take a little time and effort.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> How are you pulling these watt calcuations? Thanks.
> Also here is my build in my R4. Working to clean up the molex cables (not much room to hide them... ideas?)


I use a Kill-A-Watt meter and my UPS. I test under 4 settings. Idle CPU/GPU, 100% Load CPU only, 100% Load GPU Only and 100% Load CPU+GPU. Also I max out all fans and anything that uses power.
They way systems are now, it is by far more efficient than ever now.

You can keep the lower cage if you like, but remove the plastic sliders from the top and bottom.
SSD can be place behind mobo and HDD inside ODD bay. This way you have clear airflow.
Also it is good idea to add a bottom intake fan to add air flow towards GPU.

Molex is needed for the fan controller.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> The fan controller need 1 molex connection... I did not know of a better way to route it. It's a short run cable from the fan controller.
> 
> There's not really enough room on the back mobo for holding the SSDs


Cables goes behind DVD cage, SSDs goes in back of motherboard.
I have the same case and same setup and i know it can be done.
You can put HDD in DVD cage also with bay rafter 3.5" to 5.25"
SSDs have a place in the back of mobo, they need to be in the back of MBO.
There are holes for them to be mounted or you can youse double side tape to stick them in the back.


----------



## VIPstudio

[

Like this


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> [
> 
> Like this


I wish I could do that... But my PSU isn't modular and has a ****ton of cables I don't need.
So the component part of my case is nice and tidy but I wouldn't invite anybody to look behind the motherboard x)


----------



## Mysticode

Sigh, I need one of you guys to come over and help me cable manage all of this....









I imagine I will have to unplug every connection and re-route it. I had to actually remove the top large grommet to make it all the cables fit through it.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Sigh, I need one of you guys to come over and help me cable manage all of this....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine I will have to unplug every connection and re-route it. I had to actually remove the top large grommet to make it all the cables fit through it.


Pain and Gain man









Do it all over again please.


----------



## Mysticode

Is there some sort of agreed layout of the different cables for modern motherboards with this case? ALL of my h100i cables etc are coming out the tiny top grommets already, those seemed the most logical.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Is there some sort of agreed layout of the different cables for modern motherboards with this case? ALL of my h100i cables etc are coming out the tiny top grommets already, those seemed the most logical.


You have pics in this forum so search it.
Also Google is your friend


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Then buy some 280mm radiators man, that's still a crime. Putting 120mm on Define R4, crime against Fractal Design and better air flow.


Absolutely not, 120mm fan are much more efficient on rads (static pressure). Plus I love my noiseblocker e-loop !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> this setup looks kewl
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does ocz include them or u can buy them separately?


OCZ include those bracket, I had an agility 3, vertex 3 max iops, vertex 4 and then those 2 vector, each one came with a bracket. No idea if they are available separately.


----------



## VIPstudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Absolutely not, 120mm fan are much more efficient on rads (static pressure). Plus I love my noiseblocker e-loop


Well, i see that you don't know what are you talking about. Good luck with that crime on water cooling.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *VIPstudio*
> 
> Then buy some 280mm radiators man, that's still a crime. Putting 120mm on Define R4, crime against Fractal Design and better air flow.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely not, 120mm fan are much more efficient on rads (static pressure). Plus I love my noiseblocker e-loop !
Click to expand...

You are very very very very very mistaken about this. Besides static pressure is a misleading measurement and how much it matters has a whole lot to do with fin spacing. Pretty much though ALL 140x2 radiators outperform 120x2 radiators.

A 140x2 radiator has 39,200 mm of radiator surface area a 120x3 has 43,200 so how tiny do you think a 120x2 is? 28,800 mm Do you still want to say that a 120 out performs a 140? By that thinking a 80mm radiator should out perform a 120 since an 80 is going to have a higher static pressure.


----------



## Seid Dark

Why are most people using 240 radiators if 280 is superior?


----------



## gdubc

The 140mm rad would have more surface area than a 120mm, this is true, however, the 120mm fans that push through said radiator are more efficient/effective than their 140mm counterparts. The fans have better static pressure, this is fact. If you were adding a 140mm size rad (or 280) you would want one designed for slower speed fans in order to get good performance from most 140mm fans on the market.

There are plenty of instances were a 120mm setup could outperform a 140mm setup. Size isn't everything, lol!

A good example would be the swiftech h220(240mm)vs the kraken x60/corsair h110(280mm).


----------



## blade4246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Why are most people using 240 radiators if 280 is superior?


because of not enough room for 280mm?
because of more money?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The 140mm rad would have more surface area than a 120mm, this is true, however, the 120mm fans that push through said radiator are more efficient/effective than their 140mm counterparts. The fans have better static pressure, this is fact. If you were adding a 140mm size rad (or 280) you would want one designed for slower speed fans in order to get good performance from most 140mm fans on the market.
> 
> There are plenty of instances were a 120mm setup could outperform a 140mm setup. Size isn't everything, lol!
> 
> A good example would be the swiftech h220(240mm)vs the kraken x60/corsair h110(280mm).


Why slower speed fans to get good performance on 140mm rads? Isn't the radiator FPI designed which fans to work better.
Your example because they are diff manufacturers + diff models. To be fair, use XSPC RX240 vs XSPC RX280 or other same brand/model to compare.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade4246*
> 
> because of not enough room for 280mm?
> because of more money?
> Why slower speed fans to get good performance on 140mm rads? Isn't the radiator FPI designed which fans to work better.
> Your example because they are diff manufacturers + diff models. To be fair, use XSPC RX240 vs XSPC RX280 or other same brand/model to compare.


I meant that it would be better to get a rad designed to work with slower fan speeds because almost all 140mm fans are outperformed by their 120mm counterparts. They just don't have the static pressure to work well with a lot of the rads out there.

I work with fans/ventilation quite a bit in other areas of my life and I can tell you that when it comes to fans, static pressure is very important.

As for my example, it still shows how a 240 can outperform more than just one 280. Different manufacturers should mean nothing here since there aren't any comparisons you can do with same parts all the way around. That's the main point here. There just aren't any 140mm fans that are a comparable to the 120mm versions.

For instance, you could get an aquacomputer rad in a 240 and also a 280. You could put some gentle typhoons or sp120s on the 240, but what would you then put on the 280 for the comparison?

My main point is that all these different components are good, but they need all the pieces to be working together properly to get a good result. If you don't get a 140mm fan with good static pressure, you aren't going to get a good result from just any 280 rad.


----------



## blade4246

I'm not sure if Akasa Viper can do better than GT or SP120. But at least they are some high static pressure 140mm fans out there.


----------



## gdubc

Vipers are ok but overrated. The specs on the box are waaaaaaay overhyped. Not really much of a comparison to the scythes anyhow. At this point in time its much easier to get a good static pressure fan in the 120mm size.

I bought 4 sp120 pwm edition fans for about 13 dollars each and there is no way I could get a 140mm fan that could outperform them at that price, let alone a pwm version.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> Why are most people using 240 radiators if 280 is superior?


I guessing it's because most cases have more mounts for 120mm fans then 140's. Along with other clearance issues with the radiators being lager then the fan size the take 140 rad mounting is very limited.


----------



## givmedew

http://forums.pureoverclock.com/cooling/5123-120-vs-140-radiator-test.html

This sums it up quite nicely. Compares a 120 vs a 140 and uses a shroud adapter to cross check the 140 fan on the 120 radiator and the 120 fan on the 140 radiator.

Pretty clear that CFM and rad space wins this argument.

Any of you who still think 120 is better then come up with better evidence than 2 different branded AIOs!!!!


----------



## gdubc

Doh! I am not saying that is the case. Re read past posts and this is easy to see.

My posts have not been about which is better, but instead l am pointing out the fact that many other factors are involved. One can't just go buy a 280mm rad with a couple 140mm fans and expect better performance.


----------



## blade4246

I read your post.
Akasa Viper rated higher pressure than the GT-AP15 and SP120. You can put Akasa Viper on 280mm radiator.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade4246*
> 
> I read your post.
> Akasa Viper rated higher pressure than the GT-AP15 and SP120. You can put Akasa Viper on 280mm radiator.


Just because the box claims a certain thing doesn't mean anything. Check some reviews like Martins if you really want to see how those vipers compare. Im not trying to argue anything with anyone here, just trying to clear up some blanketed statements that don't always apply in all instances.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> http://forums.pureoverclock.com/cooling/5123-120-vs-140-radiator-test.html
> 
> This sums it up quite nicely. Compares a 120 vs a 140 and uses a shroud adapter to cross check the 140 fan on the 120 radiator and the 120 fan on the 140 radiator.
> 
> Pretty clear that CFM and rad space wins this argument.
> 
> Any of you who still think 120 is better then come up with better evidence than 2 different branded AIOs!!!!


I read that review, and while informative it is not definitive. His testing method was the best he could do, but it was far from being ideal. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying that 120 is better than 140. Obviously, if all other factors could be the same, more surface area would relate to better cooling. I'm am just saying that there are other factors to consider.

It would be nice to see something with proper tools to measure the results and having more of a controlled environment. Also, it would be nice to see one with some of the newer equipment as there are many more options now than there were in 2008.


----------



## blade4246

Do you have link for the Viper 14cm review?
I have 6x on my top SR1 420mm radiator, I knew they moved ton of air and work really well with slowest speed which I wanted for quiet computer.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade4246*
> 
> Do you have link for the Viper 14cm review?
> I have 6x on my top SR1 420mm radiator, I knew they moved ton of air and work really well with slowest speed which I wanted for quiet computer.


Check on martinsliquidlab and you can get a lot of good fan info and test results.
I was looking for good 140mm fans a while back and can't remember for sure where I got all the info to be honest.

Its not that the vipers are bad, I just meant they were overrated from the box specs. They are good fans, just not the best static pressure ones out there.The bgears blasters are supposed to be some of the best static pressure 140mm fans but they are not pwm and their reliability is questionable. I put two of them on my kraken x40 and they have done a good job for the last 8 months, but my mob is Asus, so they run full blast. That nzxt one was as loud as a rocket though, and two of the bgears on full are less noisy to my ear. I recently got these 
and they are pwm and supposed to have good static pressure but I still haven't gotten the time to try them. Also, even though they are 140mm, they have 120mm size mounting holes, so I am going to have to make a little bracket so it will fit on the kraken rad without being restricted like it would be if I used the common adapters.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The 140mm rad would have more surface area than a 120mm, this is true, however, the 120mm fans that push through said radiator are more efficient/effective than their 140mm counterparts. The fans have better static pressure, this is fact. If you were adding a 140mm size rad (or 280) you would want one designed for slower speed fans in order to get good performance from most 140mm fans on the market.
> 
> There are plenty of instances were a 120mm setup could outperform a 140mm setup. Size isn't everything, lol!
> 
> A good example would be the swiftech h220(240mm)vs the kraken x60/corsair h110(280mm).


The thing is you DON'T need "most of" the 140mm fans on the market. Following that logic I could say that people shouldn't build mATX rigs because most mATX motherboards are worse than their ATX counterparts. It's stupid.
You then follow up trying to make a point comparing All in One 140mm watercoolers (i.e. fake / rubbish coolers not worthy of the name watercooler) against a "proper" water cooling loop. It's like saying a big dog won't stand a chance against a wild wolf so it's weak.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Doh! I am not saying that is the case. Re read past posts and this is easy to see.
> 
> My posts have not been about which is better, but instead l am pointing out the fact that many other factors are involved. One can't just go buy a 280mm rad with a couple 140mm fans and expect better performance.


Thing is, people who get into watercooling DO research and don't just pick any 140mm fan off the shelf. So you're point is invalid. Once again.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> The thing is you DON'T need "most of" the 140mm fans on the market. Following that logic I could say that people shouldn't build mATX rigs because most mATX motherboards are worse than their ATX counterparts. It's stupid.
> You then follow up trying to make a point comparing All in One 140mm watercoolers (i.e. fake / rubbish coolers not worthy of the name watercooler) against a "proper" water cooling loop. It's like saying a big dog won't stand a chance against a wild wolf so it's weak.
> Thing is, people who get into watercooling DO research and don't just pick any 140mm fan off the shelf. So you're point is invalid. Once again.


My point is there are other factors to consider, how is this invalid?
Like I said before, i was never trying to argue anything with anyone about what would be better, only that there are other things to consider. This is the fractal thread and not the watercooling thread, so not everyone on here is going to be so knowledgeable about it.

Just not so sure what you are going on about.
I don't even know what you are trying to say in the first part of your post. My bringing up the other coolers was to prove my point that it doesn't all come down to size. No need to take the piss when I am just trying to clarify some things for others.


----------



## givmedew

The testing was not perfect but I would say it is definitive. Also I would like to define static pressure to you so you understand what it means. Pressure and static pressure don't necessarily mean the same thing. Static pressure is pressure but pressure doesn't necessarily mean static pressure. Static pressure is measured with no flow so 0 CFM at 100% fan speed. It doesn't perfectly apply to a fan on a radiator. We can assume that a fan with a higher static pressure is going to have more pressure while on the radiator but that is an assumption. Also what makes a fan have good static pressure has a lot to do with things that also make the fan flow more air (blade profile and rpm).

A 140mm fan that has 60cfm ability is going to have less pressure than a 120mm fan that has 60cfm ability but it is also going to be running at a lower RPM and noise.

A 140mm fan and a 120mm with similar blade design and noise output are going to have similar pressure levels but the 140mm is going to be moving a lot more air.

In other words in nearly all situations a 140mm radiator and fan is going to outperform a 120mm at the same noise level.

If you still don't understand and buy into this then do yourself a favor and swap out your radiator for a double thick dual 80mm radiator since it will obviously perform better.

Anytime you can run a 140x2 over a 120x2 then you should do so unless you already own the 120x2 radiator.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> The testing was not perfect but I would say it is definitive. Also I would like to define static pressure to you so you understand what it means. Pressure and static pressure don't necessarily mean the same thing. Static pressure is pressure but pressure doesn't necessarily mean static pressure. Static pressure is measured with no flow so 0 CFM at 100% fan speed. It doesn't perfectly apply to a fan on a radiator. We can assume that a fan with a higher static pressure is going to have more pressure while on the radiator but that is an assumption. Also what makes a fan have good static pressure has a lot to do with things that also make the fan flow more air (blade profile and rpm).
> 
> A 140mm fan that has 60cfm ability is going to have less pressure than a 120mm fan that has 60cfm ability but it is also going to be running at a lower RPM and noise.
> 
> A 140mm fan and a 120mm with similar blade design and noise output are going to have similar pressure levels but the 140mm is going to be moving a lot more air.
> 
> In other words in nearly all situations a 140mm radiator and fan is going to outperform a 120mm at the same noise level.
> 
> If you still don't understand and buy into this then do yourself a favor and swap out your radiator for a double thick dual 80mm radiator since it will obviously perform better.
> 
> Anytime you can run a 140x2 over a 120x2 then you should do so unless you already own the 120x2 radiator.


Okay. Agree with most of that and I was never disagreeing. A fans static pressure rating is more of a measure of how it performs under resistance(like from a rad). Trust me that I know what static pressure is. Once again, just stating that there are other factors.


----------



## blade4246

What about putting same 120 fans like SP120 or GT on 240mm & 280mm rads to compare? I still think size really matter.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade4246*
> 
> What about putting same 120 fans like SP120 or GT on 240mm & 280mm rads to compare? I still think size really matter.


If you did a setup with the same fans on two different size rads the bigger rad would outperform of course.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> My point is there are other factors to consider, how is this invalid?
> Like I said before, i was never trying to argue anything with anyone about what would be better, only that there are other things to consider. *This is the fractal thread and not the watercooling thread, so not everyone on here is going to be so knowledgeable about it.*
> 
> Just not so sure what you are going on about.
> I don't even know what you are trying to say in the first part of your post. My bringing up the other coolers was to prove my point that it doesn't all come down to size. No need to take the piss when I am just *trying to clarify some things for others*.


There are no more factors to consider when picking a 280mm rad with a pair or two of 140mm fans than when picking a 240mm rad with a pair or two of 120mm rads.

*Yeah, and that's exactly why I'm having a go at you for spreading missinformation. If they don't know and they see some chap posting long comments stating things as if they were fact, they're likely to take that comment seriously.*

Compare what's comparable. H220s are not like other All In One solutions. If you want to compare AiOs compare the H100 (240mm rad) and the Kraken X60 (280mm rad). I'm guessing that they've got about the same thickness and fpi (could be wrong though) and both use fans that aren't the best performers. That's stuff you can compare.

*No, your not clarifying anything, you typing a lot of words on your keyboard but you are in no way clarifying anything. If anything, you're confusing people even more than they would've been.*

If you want a 240mm rad, you're going to look for good fans if not the best fans. I see no reason why if you wanted a 280mm rad you'd just end up with a couple of bad fans. There doesn't have to be hundreds of options out there, a couple is enough. 280mm radiators are a viable option.

PS: I was initially going to have a go at that person telling another he should have a 280mm up top instead of his 240mm since it made no sense and I can't see why anybody would say such a thing. Especially considering a 280mm, depending on thickness and number of fans, will cause issue such as blocking the rear fan slot, ram or CPU cable. I think he was saying something like "shame on you, it's a disgrace to watercooling / the R4" (again, this isn't an actually quote). He then went on telling him how terrible his cable management was, which is fine, criticism can be good and push people towards the right direction. What bothered me was that when the other user asked for a bit of help he sent him off telling him to figure it out on his own.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blade4246*
> 
> What about putting same 120 fans like SP120 or GT on 240mm & 280mm rads to compare? I still think size really matter.
> 
> 
> 
> If you did a setup with the same fans on two different size rads the bigger rad would outperform of course.
Click to expand...

If you take a 140 radiator and put a 120 fan on it the rad will out perform the 120 on a 120 radiator but it may be a very small amount. HOWEVER if you put a 140mm fan with the same type of blades and the same RPM the 140mm fan will out perform the 120mm fan. Same holds true on a 120mm radiator as long as your using an adapter. A 140mm fan with the same rpm and blade style will out perform a 120mm fan on a 120mm radiator.

In all scenarios and examples including fin spacing, rad thickness, with shroud or without shroud a 140mm fan and radiator will always out perform a 120mm fan and radiator that has similar rad thickness, fin spacing, blade design, and noise.

The 140 will always be more efficient per noise and per rpm.

I don't know what your "other factors" are unless maybe your sticking your finger in the 140mm fan and not the 120mm fan but in ALL scenarios where you have the "factors" fair the 140 will win. Always!

The one scenario I can give you where a 140 would probably loose is if you take the best 120mm fan vs the best 140mm fan no holds bar because I don't think there is a 140mm fan that is as powerful as a PFC1212DE... but I may be wrong. If a 5500RPM beast of a fan like the PFC1212DE exists in 140mm trim then again 140 is going to win.


----------



## gdubc

All I was saying, kevin, is there are other factors than just getting a 280 and sticking it up top and its going to just be better. There are many factors to consider when choosing what fans and what rad to use. Any of my posts were in relation to that first statement of the bigger rad being better just because. Im using my phone by the way, lol.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> If you take a 140 radiator and put a 120 fan on it the rad will out perform the 120 on a 120 radiator but it may be a very small amount. HOWEVER if you put a 140mm fan with the same type of blades and the same RPM the 140mm fan will out perform the 120mm fan. Same holds true on a 120mm radiator as long as your using an adapter. A 140mm fan with the same rpm and blade style will out perform a 120mm fan on a 120mm radiator.
> 
> In all scenarios and examples including fin spacing, rad thickness, with shroud or without shroud a 140mm fan and radiator will always out perform a 120mm fan and radiator that has similar rad thickness, fin spacing, blade design, and noise.
> 
> The 140 will always be more efficient per noise and per rpm.
> 
> I don't know what your "other factors" are unless maybe your sticking your finger in the 140mm fan and not the 120mm fan but in ALL scenarios where you have the "factors" fair the 140 will win. Always!
> 
> The one scenario I can give you where a 140 would probably loose is if you take the best 120mm fan vs the best 140mm fan no holds bar because I don't think there is a 140mm fan that is as powerful as a PFC1212DE... but I may be wrong. If a 5500RPM beast of a fan like the PFC1212DE exists in 140mm trim then again 140 is going to win.


Agree with you again on these points. I am not sure what you are saying that is much different than what I have said. My point was there are factors to consider, like that you can't just easily go and get a 140mm fan that compares to say a gt45. Therefore, one needs to consider that factor when choosing what rad they want, and consider the differing factors of the radiators available. factors(just cuz we are saying factors a lot now)


----------



## echo27fire

Speaking of 140mm rads. Does anybody know any that will definitely fit in the front of the Arc Midi R2? I'm looking at a few different options but it looks like it will be cutting it close...


----------



## Moragg

Seems like you're arguing 2 different points - 1 says "140mm fans could technically be better because more space" and the other says "but the choice of fan still matters - a better 120mm fan would outperform a bad 140mm fan".

Best thing? Both are absolutely correct


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Speaking of 140mm rads. Does anybody know any that will definitely fit in the front of the Arc Midi R2? I'm looking at a few different options but it looks like it will be cutting it close...


Can't really answer that question without knowing whether or not you're keeping the 5.25' cage







.

PS: what do you mean by 140mm rads ? Rads that use 140mm fans (so it could be a 140 or a 280) or simply 140mm rads ?


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Can't really answer that question without knowing whether or not you're keeping the 5.25' cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> PS: what do you mean by 140mm rads ? Rads that use 140mm fans (so it could be a 140 or a 280) or simply 140mm rads ?


Not sure. I might do either a single 140 rad, or a 280 with the cage moved back to the second position.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Speaking of 140mm rads. Does anybody know any that will definitely fit in the front of the Arc Midi R2? I'm looking at a few different options but it looks like it will be cutting it close...
> 
> 
> 
> Can't really answer that question without knowing whether or not you're keeping the 5.25' cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> PS: what do you mean by 140mm rads ? Rads that use 140mm fans (so it could be a 140 or a 280) or simply 140mm rads ?
Click to expand...

Yes a radiator that is designed to use 140mm fans. It will be 2CM wider and 2CM longer per fan so for a 280 4CM longer. The bolt patterns will be for 140s.


----------



## Rotten Apple

Does anyone know if I can just RMA the front bezel? I've pinpointed an annoying vibration coming from the top right corner of the case. It goes away when I press on that portion of the front bezel. Has anyone else had vibration issues with this case?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Just because the box claims a certain thing doesn't mean anything. Check some reviews like Martins if you really want to see how those vipers compare. Im not trying to argue anything with anyone here, just trying to clear up some blanketed statements that don't always apply in all instances.


this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> 140mm radiator and fan is going to outperform a 120mm at the same noise level.
> 
> If you still don't understand and buy into this then do yourself a favor and swap out your radiator for a double thick dual 80mm radiator since it will obviously perform better.
> *
> Anytime you can run a 140x2 over a 120x2 then you should do so unless you already own the 120x2 radiator.*


OMG this made me laugh so hard. it is so wrong on so many ways

if you can find a quieter fan in the 140s that can out perform a gt15 .... sure but guess what... you cant. check martins he tried. the simple fact is no one makes a decent fan that CAN compete with gt15s in static pressure vs noise. end of it.
140s DO NOT work that much better then their 120 counterparts. in almost EVERY case actually they lose. in every argument i have heard you say at same speeds the 140 would be silenter. which is not necessarily true
and does not take into account for the fact that the 140mm fan would have to run at a faster speed to cool to the same temps as the 120mm fan .... because 120mm fans have better static pressure.

there is a simple reason for this. 120mm fans are the most common fan so guess what there is more research put into them then 140s

and again your wrong. static pressure IS NOT rated at 0cfm,

static pressure can not be rated without a cfm counterpart. which is why you need a GRAPH like these to get a real pic. of the fans performance.

static pressure can and DOES exist with CFM >0

i actually use static pressure in my profession and understand the idea behind it \

the only reason i would ever get any rad other then a 120 rad is
1 completely passive.
2 you have a chiller in another room
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Can't really answer that question without knowing whether or not you're keeping the 5.25' cage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> PS: what do you mean by 140mm rads ? Rads that use 140mm fans (so it could be a 140 or a 280) or simply 140mm rads ?


yes a fan that will fit and any multiple


----------



## AKB75

http://smotri.com/video/view/?id=v25592237ed8#


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if you can find a quieter fan in the 140s that can out perform a gt15 .... sure but guess what... you cant. check martins he tried. the simple fact is no one makes a decent fan that CAN compete with gt15s in static pressure vs noise. end of it.


The GTs are nice fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in every argument i have heard you say at same speeds the 140 would be silenter. which is not necessarily true


Also true.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and does not take into account for the fact that the 140mm fan would have to run at a faster speed to cool to the same temps as the 120mm fan .... because 120mm fans have better static pressure.


You can get more air flow, even though many rads, with a 140mm fan than a 120mm fan, even if the 140 has slightly less static pressure.

Generally speaking, you are correct that 120mm fans exist that will match or exceed the performance of 140s at the same noise level for this purpose, but there are good 140mm fans, and with 140mm popularity increasing, there are sure to be more soon.

Also, it's not difficult to mount 120mm fans to a 140mm radiator.


----------



## jamaicanpattie

hi guys, newbie here, just want to share my Arc Mini


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaicanpattie*
> 
> hi guys, newbie here, just want to share my Arc Mini
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a nice clean build, welcome to OCN and the Club


----------



## jamaicanpattie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> That's a nice clean build, welcome to OCN and the Club


Thanks sir!


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaicanpattie*
> 
> hi guys, newbie here, just want to share my Arc Mini


Great build!
I LOVE seeing triple-slot DCII cards


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Not sure. I might do either a single 140 rad, or a 280 with the cage moved back to the second position.


Oh, I actually meant the top cage. You know the massive one you need a drill to remove







? If you remove that, then you can pretty much fit any 280mm rad (unless for some reason it doesn't follow the standard for space between fan mounting holes).
If you're not going to remove that cage because you need it for a Fan Controller, a bay res or whatever, you can still fit a 280mm *BUT* you have to remove the plastic part that acts as rails for the biggest HDD cage or else I don't think any 280mm rad will fit.

PS: not sure why two other people answered for you after you'd already answered... not that it really matters though...


----------



## oshu

Prepping my GT's for my Arc Midi R2


----------



## Abula

@ arc midi r2 owners,

I just received my Arc Midi R2, really nice case, im really impressed with the design and the options it brings, just wondering about one thing that im not sure. Upon taking out the front grill and the top cover, there is a sponge on it not the usual mesh filters, while i do think it might trap dust im more worried about cleaning it, what do you guys do? im thinking on opening it and taking them out completly and getting some DEMCiflex filters at least just for the front, the top idk if its needed since ill be using as exhaust.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> @ arc midi r2 owners,
> 
> I just received my Arc Midi R2, really nice case, im really impressed with the design and the options it brings, just wondering about one thing that im not sure. Upon taking out the front grill and the top cover, there is a sponge on it not the usual mesh filters, while i do think it might trap dust im more worried about cleaning it, what do you guys do? im thinking on opening it and taking them out completly and getting some DEMCiflex filters at least just for the front, the top idk if its needed since ill be using as exhaust.


I wouldn't really waste extra cash on DEMCiflex. The stock filter on the R2 is pretty good at catching dust. To clean it, just pop the front grill out and just run it under water and let it dry. Or just take some compressed air (or an ED500 if you have one) and just blow the dust out. I do mine once a week (little harder since I have the Midi R1, and have to take my entire front panel off) and just run it under water. I usually wait a good day to make sure it's completely dry so water doesn't go flying inside the case.


----------



## Lamb0t

Hi there. This is my first post. Been a fan of Fractal for a long time. Anyway, here's my case looking to cut away to see the front fans soon. Any ideas for what to do with this huge empty space I've got?


----------



## jamaicanpattie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Great build!
> I LOVE seeing triple-slot DCII cards


Thanks man


----------



## Mega Man

o yes it is possible that 140s could ketch up very quickly but with current tech... they cant . you would think fan manufactures could just blow up the design... but meh that is why i am not an engineer. i always think fans are quiet ( not talking deltas ) but once you sit next to a flak fan or a joy fan ( they are as tall or taller then you are, the motors are 100 hp+ and ~ 1.5 to 3ft in diameter i dont see how you could cann these little things loud lol..... a joy or flak fan would make a great rad fan ... here is a pic that will give you an idea of the size
http://www.heatingandventilating.net/news/images/5147.jpg


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> @ arc midi r2 owners,
> 
> I just received my Arc Midi R2, really nice case, im really impressed with the design and the options it brings, just wondering about one thing that im not sure. Upon taking out the front grill and the top cover, there is a sponge on it not the usual mesh filters, while i do think it might trap dust im more worried about cleaning it, what do you guys do? im thinking on opening it and taking them out completly and getting some DEMCiflex filters at least just for the front, the top idk if its needed since ill be using as exhaust.


As long as you have a little positive pressure (more air coming in, than going out.) inside the case the foam does wonders for dust control. Just take a can of air and blow them out every week or so. Also, even if the filters are great, just check every month or so and blow out any dust inside.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> o yes it is possible that 140s could ketch up very quickly but with current tech... they cant . you would think fan manufactures could just blow up the design... but meh that is why i am not an engineer. i always think fans are quiet ( not talking deltas ) but once you sit next to a flak fan or a joy fan ( they are as tall or taller then you are, the motors are 100 hp+ and ~ 1.5 to 3ft in diameter i dont see how you could cann these little things loud lol..... a joy or flak fan would make a great rad fan ... here is a pic that will give you an idea of the size
> http://www.heatingandventilating.net/news/images/5147.jpg


Shoot, paint that light brown and dark brown and that would be the biggest Noctua fan ever. That one in back kinda looks like the blade and inner frame design from a noctua.


----------



## gstar888

Hey guys!

Just bought a new Fractal R4 case Titanium, it looks great except for one thing - the front USB ports (see pic). Is this a common occurance with this case or do I have a dud?


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lamb0t*
> 
> Hi there. This is my first post. Been a fan of Fractal for a long time. Anyway, here's my case looking to cut away to see the front fans soon. Any ideas for what to do with this huge empty space I've got?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


A 240 rad.







Clean build. How's the PSU treating you? I know the fan on that thing is pretty loud.


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just bought a new Fractal R4 case Titanium, it looks great except for one thing - the front USB ports (see pic). Is this a common occurance with this case or do I have a dud?


What do you think is wrong with it?? All looks fine to me....


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> What do you think is wrong with it?? All looks fine to me....


Look at the USB 2.0 ports. Clearly not clipped in place as well as the 3.0 ports.

I have a Midi r2 (different IO) but I will say that my headphone/microphone ports are not solidly connected to the case and move around. Literally the only part of the case I don't like. If anyone else can confirm/say there's doesn't move around then I may complain to fractal and hopefully get a replacement IO panel.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Look at the USB 2.0 ports. Clearly not clipped in place as well as the 3.0 ports.
> 
> I have a Midi r2 (different IO) but I will say that my headphone/microphone ports are not solidly connected to the case and move around. Literally the only part of the case I don't like. If anyone else can confirm/say there's doesn't move around then I may complain to fractal and hopefully get a replacement IO panel.


Does it work? As long as it works, slanted dun really matter...


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Look at the USB 2.0 ports. Clearly not clipped in place as well as the 3.0 ports.
> 
> I have a Midi r2 (different IO) but I will say that my headphone/microphone ports are not solidly connected to the case and move around. Literally the only part of the case I don't like. If anyone else can confirm/say there's doesn't move around then I may complain to fractal and hopefully get a replacement IO panel.


Mine are the same and are perfect


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Mine are the same and are perfect


Wait what? Your headphone/microphone sockets don't move around at all?


----------



## Seid Dark

My Arc Midi (version 1) has crooked usb ports also. Didn't bother to send it for RMA because I didn't have other case to replace it. Other problem is that there's something wrong with the hard drive cages, when it's fully loaded some of the HDD's get scratched on top. I plan to ditch the cage altogether and get some Scythe Himuro HDD silencers or something similar. Too bad it's riveted in instead of screws, gonna have to buy a drill to take it out.


----------



## gstar888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> What do you think is wrong with it?? All looks fine to me....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Mine are the same and are perfect


So this 'minor defect' is normal amongst R4 owners? I thought this was a premium case?


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> So this 'minor defect' is normal amongst R4 owners? I thought this was a premium case?


I wouldn't really call it a defect exactly. I have a Midi R2 and mine are the same. (usbs and front audio.) Either the way they mount it or how they make the front I/O is clearly not all that great. Though I don't really use the front I/O that much so it doesn't bother me.


----------



## neXen

Upgraded to a Arc Midi R2 a ~6months ago. The computer has been on 16/24hrs a day, everyday, barring holidays/random things.

Took the panel to see if it needed any cleaning and lo and behold.....there was nothing to clean....







Not the best pics, but you get the idea. I never realized how much dust those filters keep out


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Upgraded to a Arc Midi R2 a ~6months ago. The computer has been on 16/24hrs a day, everyday, barring holidays/random things.
> 
> Took the panel to see if it needed any cleaning and lo and behold.....there was nothing to clean....
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the best pics, but you get the idea. I never realized how much dust those filters keep out


Not bad at all. Did you get a pic of the dust covers themselves? They must've been full of dust.

I still remember opening a laptop 3 years after buying to find a solid block of dust blocking the heatsink







which explained why it was overheating every ~2 mins.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Upgraded to a Arc Midi R2 a ~6months ago. The computer has been on 16/24hrs a day, everyday, barring holidays/random things.
> 
> Took the panel to see if it needed any cleaning and lo and behold.....there was nothing to clean....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the best pics, but you get the idea. I never realized how much dust those filters keep out


Nice, the plastic mount under the ODD can be remove.
With the heatsink you have, I would remove the rear fan. being so close to the heatsink, it is not doing good for it.
Air will be force out from heatsink, and you might have better temps.


----------



## neXen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Not bad at all. Did you get a pic of the dust covers themselves? They must've been full of dust.
> I still remember opening a laptop 3 years after buying to find a solid block of dust blocking the heatsink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> which explained why it was overheating every ~2 mins.


I occasionally used my metro vac on the front filter, so it was clean. Its crazy how much of a difference it makes on the inside of the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice, the plastic mount under the ODD can be remove.
> With the heatsink you have, I would remove the rear fan. being so close to the heatsink, it is not doing good for it.
> Air will be force out from heatsink, and you might have better temps.


Well ****, i never even thought of removing the plate under the 5.25 bays.

Yea, i was thinking about removing the rear fan to see what would happen, but my temps are damn near fantastic.

3570k @ 4.6ghz 1.2V i get ~65 degree max during stress tests


----------



## Moragg

All this fan + airflow business is why my next rig will be a complete WCing job. Everything from VRMs through to the GPUs. Much less complicated, and tbh more fun and satisfying to build (and more frustrating. don't forget that







)


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Upgraded to a Arc Midi R2 a ~6months ago. The computer has been on 16/24hrs a day, everyday, barring holidays/random things.
> 
> Took the panel to see if it needed any cleaning and lo and behold.....there was nothing to clean....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the best pics, but you get the idea. I never realized how much dust those filters keep out


I found almost no dust in my case, as well. Except for the front dust filter. My last case was always dusty inside.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just bought a new Fractal R4 case Titanium, it looks great except for one thing - the front USB ports (see pic). Is this a common occurance with this case or do I have a dud?
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think is wrong with it?? All looks fine to me....
Click to expand...

Def crooked... just taking a guess but I doubt they are on a PCB or holder of any sort. They probably all go into the hole individually and are held in with friction clips. If I am wrong then they do really shoddy work with the PCB lol.


----------



## gstar888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Def crooked... just taking a guess but I doubt they are on a PCB or holder of any sort. They probably all go into the hole individually and are held in with friction clips. If I am wrong then they do really shoddy work with the PCB lol.


I agree, definitely looks redic given how great the whole case is overall.

Sorting it out with Amazon, they're sending a replacment!


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just bought a new Fractal R4 case Titanium, it looks great except for one thing - the front USB ports (see pic). Is this a common occurance with this case or do I have a dud?


mines straight as an arrow


----------



## michael-ocn

Holy heatsinks batman... that thing is HUGE










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neXen*
> 
> Upgraded to a Arc Midi R2 a ~6months ago. The computer has been on 16/24hrs a day, everyday, barring holidays/random things.
> 
> Took the panel to see if it needed any cleaning and lo and behold.....there was nothing to clean....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the best pics, but you get the idea. I never realized how much dust those filters keep out


----------



## gstar888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> mines straight as an arrow


thank you. I guess this one slipped through quality control!


----------



## CluckyTaco

Guys anybody hear anything on the grapevine about the arc mini r2 release date? I am waiting on that as I have my parts ready for a build


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaitu87*
> 
> Guys anybody hear anything on the grapevine about the arc mini r2 release date? I am waiting on that as I have my parts ready for a build


Should be end of Sept early Oct.


----------



## 352227

Here's my Fractal Design Define R4 in white... what you think?
















Any idea how to remove the black thing under the DVD drive bay? They have screws but can't get in!

HOW DO I ROTATE THE IMAGES? they are correct in windows...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The CPU fan is incorrectly blowing the wrong way.
You need small screw driver or one with angle.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Here's my Fractal Design Define R4 in white... what you think?


Another SLI DCII build!









Multi-card DCII master-race unite!


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Another SLI DCII build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Multi-card DCII master-race unite!


Cheers mate, got the second card yesterday.... deeeelish!


----------



## Hawxie

Does anyone by chance, know what the noise absorbating/dampening material used in the Define cases are called?


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Here's my Fractal Design Define R4 in white... what you think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea how to remove the black thing under the DVD drive bay? They have screws but can't get in!
> 
> HOW DO I ROTATE THE IMAGES? they are correct in windows...


That looks like mine! What fans are you using and do you like them? I need to order some soon.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Does anyone by chance, know what the noise absorbating/dampening material used in the Define cases are called?


I believe it's _bitumen_ sound-dampening material (and I believe it's 2mm variant used in the R4)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> thank you. I guess this one slipped through quality control!


Mine does kinda "lip" up but the usb ports are straight parallel with the front panel.


----------



## XFighter899

I have a Arc Midi original, i want to know if the front panel from arc midi r2 fits on r1(original)

Thanks.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I believe it's _bitumen_ sound-dampening material (and I believe it's 2mm variant used in the R4)


Ahh at last, now my hunt begins for more.
Thanks







.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Ahh at last, now my hunt begins for more.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


No problem


----------



## Rar4f

I made this for fun, to help visualize how air flow will be in Arc r2 midi with +2 more fans installed (1 at bottom, 1 at front)

I realize it may not be accurate representation of how the flow is, but i just wanted to make it.
And if anyone want to help make it more precise with constructive feedback, it will be great.
I have little to no experience with air flow in a computer, so i tried to think how it may be.



INTAKE:
140mm : Bottom x1, Front x2

EXHAUST
140mm x2 (rear and top rear)


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I made this for fun, to help visualize how air flow will be in Arc r2 midi with +2 more fans installed (1 at bottom, 1 at front)
> 
> I realize it may not be accurate representation of how the flow is, but i just wanted to make it.
> And if anyone want to help make it more precise with constructive feedback, it will be great.
> I have little to no experience with air flow in a computer, so i tried to think how it may be.
> 
> 
> 
> INTAKE:
> 140mm : Bottom x1, Front x2
> 
> EXHAUST
> 140mm x2 (rear and top rear)


pretty much on point. is there two exhaust on the top? making a total of 3 exhausts?

if so your gonna get a pretty diagonal flow of air to the top and back (( good positive airflow ))


----------



## kyismaster

im sorry if i butchered it


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Ahh at last, now my hunt begins for more.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


or you can try that stuff they put underneat machinery and laundry/washing machines - made from recycled rubber/car tires : +/- $ 5,-
(but it is rather heavy)











or
"professional" serenity mat (definitely MORE as $ 5,-)

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-products/soundproofing-floor-underlay/serenity-mat-flooring-underlay/


----------



## Rar4f

Improved the gif i made earlier


----------



## Mega Man

or .... it is just a use plug and if it bothers you so much you could just bend it back


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

For that airflow to work you have to remove the top HDD cage or both remove to have any airflow.
With the cage installed, frontal airflow is not there.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XFighter899*
> 
> I have a Arc Midi original, i want to know if the front panel from arc midi r2 fits on r1(original)
> 
> Thanks.


Unfortunately, it doesn't fit.


----------



## andyv

Does any one have any pics, of an Define R4 with a radiator in the front, SLI cards and a tube reservoir?


----------



## kyismaster

not quite... but heres front rad :


----------



## egotrippin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> Just bought a new Fractal R4 case Titanium, it looks great except for one thing - the front USB ports (see pic). Is this a common occurance with this case or do I have a dud?


My Define XL has USB ports that are kind of jacked up - the 2.0 ports are loose but the 3.0 ports work well so I stick with those....I don't need 4 things plugged in the front at once


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> not quite... but heres front rad :


Thanks. I currently have a setup with a 60mm thick 280 rad at the front. I have a tube res/pump attached to the HDD cage. I had to move this over. Basically I am looking for better ways to mount the tube res, so that I can fit another card in my system to SLI.

Here is a few pics of my rig. (I have posted them before)

Its just when I would try putting another card in my system it would hit the hdd cage. I think I want to remove this completely to give the case a cleaner look either way.





It kinda looks like it might fit, but when you get in there there is no way that it would fit at all.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Basically I am looking for better ways to mount the tube res, so that I can fit another card in my system to SLI.


I'm thinking about starting my own loop in my own arc and have run into the same problem. I plan on going SLI with a high rez monitor. However, both my 5.25 bays are populated and I have one mechanical drive. The only solutions I have right now is either...

A) cut down the drive cage with a dremel to free up that little extra space and file down the edges or w/e.

B) get another SSD for programs, move 3.5 to an external enclosure for storage. OR mount the HDD vertically in a custom bracket.

NOTE: you could also mount the res on your rear fan area too. or remove the plastic on the top of the HDD cage. Also, the pic.


----------



## Morizuno

Does anyone have a pic of an arc midi r2 w/ white LEDs and the window on? I'd like to see what it'd look like through the smoked glass


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno*
> 
> Does anyone have a pic of an arc midi r2 w/ white LEDs and the window on? I'd like to see what it'd look like through the smoked glass


When I can I could take a pic of mine. I have NZXT Hue, it lights it up pretty well except for the CPU area because of some obstructions.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Sorry for the picture. Under desk and very little lighting to get a good look.
Lighting is hooked up to the fan controller. Bottom is in front of PSU and Top one is behind the top fans.


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> 
> [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!][URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1658056/width/200/height/400]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1658056/width/200/height/400[/URL]
> I'm thinking about starting my own loop in my own arc and have run into the same problem. I plan on going SLI with a high rez monitor. However, both my 5.25 bays are populated and I have one mechanical drive. The only solutions I have right now is either...
> 
> A) cut down the drive cage with a dremel to free up that little extra space and file down the edges or w/e.
> 
> B) get another SSD for programs, move 3.5 to an external enclosure for storage. OR mount the HDD vertically in a custom bracket.
> 
> NOTE: you could also mount the res on your rear fan area too. or remove the plastic on the top of the HDD cage. Also, the pic[/SPOILER]
> .[/QUOTE]
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Actually, I think that it may fit well if i remove the plastic of the top. I think with the AIR cooler it would just fit, and would be fine with the water block when I would get it. Still considering if I want to do it, as since I will want to WC it, it will be a large investment.


----------



## Slayerik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno*
> 
> Does anyone have a pic of an arc midi r2 w/ white LEDs and the window on? I'd like to see what it'd look like through the smoked glass


I posted my photos some time before, look here http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/8880#post_20651172
But I'm thinking of putting RGB leds inside. Smoked sidepanel sometimes makes it look purple with just white LEDs.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> For that airflow to work you have to remove the top HDD cage or both remove to have any airflow.
> With the cage installed, frontal airflow is not there.


i am going to remove the HDD top cage.
And i will change the orientation of the lower HDD cage so that air flow goes directly through the cage rather than through the sides.


----------



## gstar888

guys - got a Seasonic M12II 750W bronze PSU - is it better to install it with the PSU fan facing down or up? Facing upwards, I'm a bit paranoid for dust falling (and blocking the fan), but I guess with the R4 case not much dust will get in? Thoughts?


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> guys - got a Seasonic M12II 750W bronze PSU - is it better to install it with the PSU fan facing down or up? Facing upwards, I'm a bit paranoid for dust falling (and blocking the fan), but I guess with the R4 case not much dust will get in? Thoughts?


If you got a arc r2 midi i think the best way is to face it down. That way it will take advantage of the exhaust vent where the PSU is to be positioned at.


----------



## andyv

I dont think dust is a major issue. I never cleaned or dusted my Corsair PSU for about 3 years, opened it up and it was filthy. Dusted it off and didn't notice any difference at all.


----------



## Slayerik

dust is an issue if you have pc in a dusty room, just as my dorm room. I need to clean the intake filter on Arc Midi R2 almost every two weeks as "dusty circles" appear, from where the fans are sucking air...
so if you live in a dusty room, and put the PSU with fan down, it will take air from floor, and need to clean the filter every now and then...
if you put it facing the inside of case, you don't need to clean it, as the intake filter will do it's job...

anyway a regular cleanup of the dust with a compressed air is not that difficult...


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I dont think dust is a major issue. I never cleaned or dusted my Corsair PSU for about 3 years, opened it up and it was filthy. Dusted it off and didn't notice any difference at all.


dust accumulates over the HS & components, resulting in "hotter" components, reducing lifetime/efficiency as the regulators have to "work harder"
If it gets bad enough , some cap will pop
If you are unlucky the popping cap will ignite the dust....

Most of the time it isn't a big issue.. clean/vacuum the room on regular basis (ie more as once a year







) helps a lot.
Blow/clean out dust from components every now and then

If you have dog/cat, it tends to get bad quickly, you'll find that hairy dust bunnies block airflow very well

compare it to the bathtub/shower drain... dirt/soap/(pubic) hair will build up till the drain is blocked


----------



## Rar4f

dust is a issue. On a big scale it ruins your build.

So when you know dust over time can affect a build you put alot of work into,
then its better to be safe.

I expect to clean the dust filters of a future case ever 2-3 weeks depending on when the filters are really full of dust spots

And clean the inside of computer every 3 months or so with a datavac ed500


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> i am going to remove the HDD top cage.
> And i will change the orientation of the lower HDD cage so that air flow goes directly through the cage rather than through the sides.


There is really no point in doing that, as you will have a hard time adding and removing the drive. Rotating wont increase airflow.
The be able to remove you might lose the bottom fan placement.

How many drives do you have?


----------



## b4db0y

Where's the damn Arc Mini R2?


----------



## Sencha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Where's the damn Arc Mini R2?


I know









I emailed fractal again. I'll post up the answer in here but so far they've been really slow with emails. I contacted a re-seller but they had no idea.

Doing my build next month....if its not here going to go with 350d instead.


----------



## Spritanium

Can't remember if I've posted this here yet


----------



## K4IKEN

I want to see some more Nodes in here! I'm thinking of downsizing to the node 304 while I'm still in college because hauling the R4 around is annoying.


----------



## Pebruska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> I want to see some more Nodes in here! I'm thinking of downsizing to the node 304 while I'm still in college because hauling the R4 around is annoying.


There's a whole thread for them, here


----------



## b4db0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sencha*
> 
> I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I emailed fractal again. I'll post up the answer in here but so far they've been really slow with emails. I contacted a re-seller but they had no idea.
> 
> Doing my build next month....if its not here going to go with 350d instead.


I would go with a 350D but I don't think it fits a 360 up top.


----------



## gdubc

Lian-Li has the Pcd-600 coming that looks promising. Same style as the 540 but wider. Looks like it can fit all kinds of stuff. Probably more than double the cost of that corsair though.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morizuno*
> 
> Does anyone have a pic of an arc midi r2 w/ white LEDs and the window on? I'd like to see what it'd look like through the smoked glass


http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/nighttime1_zps50e039b9.jpg.html

Thats an old pic though, this is my setup now, unfortunately no side panel pics. Maybe I'll take a new one tonight when it gets dark...

http://s1061.photobucket.com/user/stickg1/media/20130909_095246_zps58006150.jpg.html


----------



## Rar4f

How much does the led cost?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> How much does the led cost?


I bought a roll of HitLights LEDs on amazon (16ft for $13). But you have to wire them yourself. I used a spare molex to PCIe adapter and cut off the end and solder it to the LED strips. I sleeve and heatshrink and if I need to string strips together I use 18ga braided wire. If you have wire clippers and a soldering iron already its a cheap alternative to finished lighting strips. Although it does take some time...


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spritanium*
> 
> Can't remember if I've posted this here yet


your camera... makes it look like a starship


----------



## ceaze one

Does anyone else get a rattling noise when they remove the top HDD cage to get better airflow on the Arc Midi R2 or Define R4? I've been trying to find out where the noise was coming from for the past 2 or 3 months and finally found out what it was today. The rattling was caused by the bottom filter vibrating against the bottom of the case. To fixe this I placed a couple of thin pieces of foam on the frame of the bottom filter... No more rattling! I can't believe it took me this long to fix!!!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> How much does the led cost?


You can also get a kit like these: 
They are pretty cheap...like $20, and at 5m they are twice the length of the nzxt hue. Here's a link if you are interested. *Rgb led kit*
I got the link from another member, Buehlar. If you search for him in the vengeance c70 thread, he shows a lot of pics of all the settings/brightness levels.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> Does anyone else get a rattling noise when they remove the top HDD cage to get better airflow on the Arc Midi R2 or Define R4? I've been trying to find out where the noise was coming from for the past 2 or 3 months and finally found out what it was today. The rattling was caused by the bottom filter vibrating against the bottom of the case. To fixe this I placed a couple of thin pieces of foam on the frame of the bottom filter... No more rattling! I can't believe it took me this long to fix!!!


The fix is for the Arc Midi R2 or for the Define R4? they have different fronts.


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> The fix is for the Arc Midi R2 or for the Define R4? they have different fronts.


They both have the same internal layout... including the bottom filter, which was the cause of the rattling


----------



## Birk

Just ordered myself an Arc Midi R2, Looking forward to a black and white theme on my existing gear in a new case from my current Mozart TX thats been stripped to its frame lol.


----------



## Slayerik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> The fix is for the Arc Midi R2 or for the Define R4? they have different fronts.


he's speaking about bottom filter, for the psu and bottom fan, not bottom part of front filter








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ceaze one*
> 
> They both have the same internal layout... including the bottom filter, which was the cause of the rattling


I have no encountered this in my Midi R2 after removing it, actually the filter is really nicely fixed... haven't you bent some of those punchouts for it? It's weird problem, looking at bottom of my case, it's fixed so much that it's almost not possible to rattle....


----------



## ugo1

Hi,

just bought this case I notice this "problem" when I close it on the side panel





is normal?

Ugo


----------



## steelkevin

I would try to help but I can't see a thing in those tiny pictures.

Try posting much bigger ones please







.


----------



## ugo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I would try to help but I can't see a thing in those tiny pictures.
> 
> Try posting much bigger ones please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


ok edit the message now the link will open in the right way


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugo1*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> just bought this case I notice this "problem" when I close it on the side panel
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is normal?
> 
> Ugo


I'm not sure I see it and I looked at the bigger pictures. Are you talking about where the paint has a little chip in it? That can happen just trying to slide the side panel in place if you're not super careful. If it bothers you then you could always touch it up with a little paint.


----------



## MiiX

I think he means the gap between the side panel and the case/top


----------



## ugo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I'm not sure I see it and I looked at the bigger pictures. Are you talking about where the paint has a little chip in it? That can happen just trying to slide the side panel in place if you're not super careful. If it bothers you then you could always touch it up with a little paint.


Yes is the paint which gone away on bottom and up part of the case becuase probably wrong positioning of the panel never happend with other case









Also I have a R3 XL never happen this problem

Ugo


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugo1*
> 
> Yes is the paint which gone away on bottom and up part of the case becuase probably wrong positioning of the panel never happend with other case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I have a R3 XL never happen this problem
> 
> Ugo


Yeah I just don't see it being a big issue. It's on the backside of the case and its a little chipped paint. It could have happened in packaging/shipping or it can happen sliding the side panels on and off numerous times. You could put a dab of sharpie right there and probably not even notice it unless looking closely for it.

But calling it a defect I would deem as being a little too nit-picky.


----------



## Gubz

Almost done now, just waiting on AMD to release their new cards..



Without flash:


----------



## ugo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah I just don't see it being a big issue. It's on the backside of the case and its a little chipped paint. It could have happened in packaging/shipping or it can happen sliding the side panels on and off numerous times. You could put a dab of sharpie right there and probably not even notice it unless looking closely for it.
> 
> But calling it a defect I would deem as being a little too nit-picky.


I agree but in mean time I'm disappointed lately me computer we are on the opposite side (I just put in the basket bin a 500 Euro motherboard ...)

ugo


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Almost done now, just waiting on AMD to release their new cards..
> 
> 
> 
> Without flash:


Me too


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Me too


Then we're at least three in this club







.

A much needed upgrade for me seeing as I sold my 560 Ti months ago and am playing BF3 on an OC'ed GTS 240 (I was actually surprised how high it OC'ed, didn't expect it to OC at all) @720p on a full HD 24" monitor (I don't stay over 60fps @1080p...). Just ordered 8GB of Ram to replace my very old OEM 4*1GB sticks.

I've got 450€ aside for a GPU and its waterblock, just waiting on AMD







.

@Gubz: is that a Mini R2 ? from what I've been reading nobody can get ahold of one of those and Fractal Design haven't been giving out any information as to when it will actually be available.
I would cut the pump's foam if I was you. Otherwise, great looking rig







.

I guess that one of your tubes isn't black because it's a temporary run untill you get a watercooled GPU ?


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> @Gubz: is that a Mini R2 ? from what I've been reading nobody can get ahold of one of those and Fractal Design haven't been giving out any information as to when it will actually be available.
> I would cut the pump's foam if I was you. Otherwise, great looking rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I guess that one of your tubes isn't black because it's a temporary run untill you get a watercooled GPU ?


It's not, it's a first gen Arc mini with a couple of modifications.
Both the ugly looking clear tube on the left side and the foam is just temporary, tubing will be changed to black when I get the gpu and for the pump I think I'll get some thick double sided rubber tape, or something like that.


----------



## AsTuRkInG

Crossfire updated.

When i get more money i will watercool both gpus (or upgrade to new amd's)


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AsTuRkInG*
> 
> Crossfire updated.
> 
> When i get more money i will watercool both gpus (or upgrade to new amd's)


...I like the color...









Looks outstanding!


----------



## Abula

Well my cases arrived, Fractal Design Define R4 and Arc Midi R2.



ill be building next next week once my ATX MSI Z87-GD65 arrives, im really interested into testing both more restricted/quiet oriented R4 vs the more open ARC MIDI R2. I want to test the following

1) 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM on both cases (2 in two out)
2) 6x Noctua NF-A14 PWM (3 in and 3 out)
3) 7x Noctua NF-A14 PWM only on R4 to see if the side matter at all on single gpu.

I really want to see the temp and noise (although this will be more subjective).


----------



## pcoutu17

I don't know if anyone else has asked them, but I emailed the NA (North America) Fractal Design sales department about the release of the Arc Mini R2. They said it should be available by early October, and that they'll make an announcement on social media when it drops!


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> Without flash:


This looks _really_ good. I even like the clear tube that loops all the way to the bottom, and the photography is great too.


----------



## KevGann

Yeah asked them the same thing a week ago, really looking forward to building my new system in that case.


----------



## Sencha

Yeah they said to me mini r2 arriving in the UK ports from 1st Oct so in stores about a week after I guess.


----------



## gstar888

Currently in my R4 I have the top two fans still covered/blocked by the dampening material. Config is both 140mm case fans at the from with 5v set, and at the back 2x SP120 Corsair silent edition fans in a push/pull config with an Antec Kuhler 620.

Question - is it better to leave those vents at the top blocked, or have them opened if I don't plan to buy additional fans?


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Currently in my R4 I have the top two fans still covered/blocked by the dampening material. Config is both 140mm case fans at the from with 5v set, and at the back 2x SP120 Corsair silent edition fans in a push/pull config with an Antec Kuhler 620.
> 
> Question - is it better to leave those vents at the top blocked, or have them opened if I don't plan to buy additional fans?


I would leave them closed, if you dont want to put fans in the top.


----------



## Kitarist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Well my cases arrived, Fractal Design Define R4 and Arc Midi R2.
> 
> 
> 
> ill be building next next week once my ATX MSI Z87-GD65 arrives, im really interested into testing both more restricted/quiet oriented R4 vs the more open ARC MIDI R2. I want to test the following
> 
> 1) 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM on both cases (2 in two out)
> 2) 6x Noctua NF-A14 PWM (3 in and 3 out)
> 3) 7x Noctua NF-A14 PWM only on R4 to see if the side matter at all on single gpu.
> 
> I really want to see the temp and noise (although this will be more subjective).


Wow this is great!!!

I really cant decide which case to get and i'm actually between these two!!!

Could you please make some more HQ pictures of these two cases side by side?

Thanks!!!


----------



## gstar888

thoughts on replacement for my Antec Kuhler 620? Its started rattling and I need a replacement thats silent and cools great.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Wow this is great!!!
> 
> I really cant decide which case to get and i'm actually between these two!!!
> 
> Could you please make some more HQ pictures of these two cases side by side?
> 
> Thanks!!!


IMO the midi r2 looks much better, especially the top.


----------



## nitroxyl

The Noctua NH-D14 has the best silent:cooling ratio out there on the market.
Also, the Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 2 gives similar performance if I'm not mistaken.

I personally use a Zalman CNPS9900MAX-B in my rig but that's because I wanted the blue LED to match the rest of my components


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> The Noctua NH-D14 has the best silent:cooling ratio out there on the market.


If air cooling. I imagine a big radiator and lots of 140mm fans at low speed would be cooler and quieter. And cost quite a lot more.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Currently in my R4 I have the top two fans still covered/blocked by the dampening material. Config is both 140mm case fans at the from with 5v set, and at the back 2x SP120 Corsair silent edition fans in a push/pull config with an Antec Kuhler 620.
> 
> Question - is it better to leave those vents at the top blocked, or have them opened if I don't plan to buy additional fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> I would leave them closed, if you dont want to put fans in the top.


^this. I have fans in the top of mine as exhaust but they are set to only run when needed. As a result I get a lot of dust that just falls in the open top (I ordered filter that are on the way).
If you don't have fans there it will just be cleaner/quieter to leave them on.


----------



## gstar888

will a corsair h100 fit in the fractal r4 case?


----------



## Rar4f

the cloth at top fans protecting against noise, is it one thing

or two?

one for each fan vent?


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> will a corsair h100 fit in the fractal r4 case?


Yes, you can place it in the front or the top of the case. The case supports up to 280mm rads for both the top and front.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> will a corsair h100 fit in the fractal r4 case?


It does, but the compatibility depends more on your motherboard/MOSFIT heatsinks, RAM, etc.

Also, regardless of motherboard/RAM setup, you can only go push or pull. (P/P is only accomplished by modding the case to offset the rad)


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> the cloth at top fans protecting against noise, is it one thing
> 
> or two?
> 
> one for each fan vent?


If you are talking about in the top of the r4, it is two pieces, one for each fan location.


----------



## K4IKEN

Welp, I just put my R4 up for sale on CL. It's probably going to sit there for a very long time honestly, I highly doubt anyone is going to be looking for a decent computer case and willing to pay the asking price for it there.







I do love the R4 still, but I love/want/need the size and looks of the Node 304. Its just a lot more practical in my current situation.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Node 304 is nice. I was thinking of down grading from Arc Midi R2 to Node 304. I dont game much and lately dont need a tower.
Wish ITX cases has room for triple slot cooling for GPU.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Node 304 is nice. I was thinking of down grading from Arc Midi R2 to Node 304. I dont game much and lately dont need a tower.
> Wish ITX cases has room for triple slot cooling for GPU.


ikr. Then , it may as well be a mATX case though at that point I think.









I've been thinking about downsizing to ITX myself. Arc R2 takes up too much room on my desk, and I really don't want it on the carpeted floor.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

An extra one slot wouldnt make it that much wider.
I just hate my GTX670 stock cooling. Blower type.


----------



## Rar4f

could i get some input on how well the noise protection of R4 Define works?

Say if i installed two 140mm Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PK 3 in front, would i hear the fans at medium speed?


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> could i get some input on how well the noise protection of R4 Define works?
> 
> Say if i installed two 140mm Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PK 3 in front, would i hear the fans at medium speed?


I think these are the ones in my case. Honestly they are awful fans. The stock fans are silent but I find these to be loud. Might be that Its because I am using them on a rad, but honestly they are the loudest part of the case.

with all stock fans I couldn't hear a thing (I also had a few more for the front)


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I think these are the ones in my case. Honestly they are awful fans. The stock fans are silent but I find these to be loud. Might be that Its because I am using them on a rad, but honestly they are the loudest part of the case.
> 
> with all stock fans I couldn't hear a thing (I also had a few more for the front)


Well yeah they are noisy but that could be because your using them on a rad.
Plus maybe your using them at maxium rpm?
The stockfan is very silent but they also dont have things that Noiseblocker one has. Such as more static pressure.

I am thinking to get two noiseblocker and use the stock fans for a top intake and rear exhaust.


----------



## andyv

I pulled out everything from my case today, as my origional plan was to remove the optical drive bays out of my Define R4. However it got me thinking.
How easy would it be to do a reverse ATX in this case?

A few things I see may be an issue;
1) Would have to re-drill the holes to attach the doors
2) Would need to figure out a new way to attach the motherboard tray to the top of the case without really drilling into it. Could maybe JB weld it, but if I do that its permanent.
3) The PSU would be at the top and would need to figure a way to Mount it. Could do this at the bottom of the case as I would still need to fit a 240 rad in the case (at the top or bottom) Could maybe fit a 360 in the bottom. I Dont want to cut the top but dont mind about the bottom.

The other thing is, if I were to try I think it should be fairly easy to re-rivet the thing back together. Otherwise its fairly cheap for a new case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Well yeah they are noisy but that could be because your using them on a rad.
> Plus maybe your using them at maxium rpm?


Yeah, I just checked I do have these. They are silent enough on low (but found them to be fairly weak) I currently have them at 7V and they are still loud as hell. (but right now its outside the case)

I do remember seeing a you-tube video with the fans showing the volume. If I find it I will post it.

EDIT 2:
here is the video 



I am not saying don't get them, its just my opinion is that they are loud. And to get the best performance from them you may need to run faster. I don't know this for sure, but it could be that the fractal fans perform the same as the noiseblockers when they are at a lower voltage.


----------



## Rar4f

Well R4 Define is designed to soak up noise from fans. So how are you doing that with those fans if your testing it outside









Would been nicer to see someone running the fans at medium voltage and max inside the case with the front door closed.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Well R4 Define is designed to soak up noise from fans. So how are you doing that with those fans if your testing it outside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would been nicer to see someone running the fans at medium voltage and max inside the case with the front door closed.


In my experience cases matter little, you put noise components inside you will end up with a noisy setup, the R4 might have a door and dampening mat on the side panels, but you will notice a 1600rpm fan no matter what, but here all is relative, as in with audio we all have different criteria to judge it. In my experience any 120mm fan or bigger over 800rpm i start to notice it, no matter the case, but again we all have different cooling needs and are willing to sacrifice noise for it, so only you will be able to answer your own question. That said i own 2x PK3 on my Coolermaster SF19 and they are very good fans (just loud at 12V), also own a PK1 on my server and very quiet fan at 700rpm, so if you undervolt the PK3 i think you should be fine.


----------



## AKB75

Корпус Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl. Уселение дна и установка колес


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!























видео
http://smotri.com/video/view/?id=v25644625525#


----------



## Leader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Define R4 Titanium Grey Windowed


"Sticker bombed" the front door of Define R4


----------



## ceaze one

I emailed Fractal Design support since I had 2 fans that made ticking sounds last night, they got back to me this morning and I filled out a form with all my information. A couple of hours later they email me with a FedEx tracking number to the package of the replacement fans. Holy crap their customer service is quick, they shipped in less than 24 hours of me emailing them!


----------



## Fester1

I bought a fractal R4 case a month or two ago and need some help.

1) Is there a recommended fan setup for the case?

2) What model of Noctua fans should I get for the case?


----------



## nitroxyl

Depending on your CPU cooler and GPU setup, you may want to have 2 fans in the front as intake, 1 on the bottom for intake, and 2 on the top for exhaust since heat naturally rises.

I personally opted for the same model fans included in the Define R4, which are 140mm fans. I'd go with the Noctua NF-P14-FLX 140mm Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan 750-1200 RPM fans. If you don't mind spending $10 extra to have lower RPM fan speeds, go for it!


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> I bought a fractal R4 case a month or two ago and need some help.
> 
> 1) Is there a recommended fan setup for the case?
> 
> 2) What model of Noctua fans should I get for the case?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Depending on your CPU cooler and GPU setup, you may want to have 2 fans in the front as intake, 1 on the bottom for intake, and 2 on the top for exhaust since heat naturally rises.
> 
> I personally opted for the same model fans included in the Define R4, which are 140mm fans. I'd go with the Noctua NF-P14-FLX 140mm Ultra Quiet Cooling Fan 750-1200 RPM fans. If you don't mind spending $10 extra to have lower RPM fan speeds, go for it!


Basically this. Though I have my config as two front intake, and just a single fan exhausting air in the rear, which I will probably cut out the rear grill mesh soon as I can add that one fan to top exhaust and let that vent the air naturally. If you want more info on fan setups and what not, ask doyll. He really knows his stuff. And as for the fans, NF-A14 FLX is what I recommend. I'd just get the PWM fans or if you don't care, just get the regular non PWM ones.


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> 2) What model of Noctua fans should I get for the case?


I bought NF-A14 PWM... nice choice, imho


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> I bought a fractal R4 case a month or two ago and need some help.
> 
> 1) Is there a recommended fan setup for the case?
> 
> 2) What model of Noctua fans should I get for the case?


Some questions,

1) What motherboard do you have

2) Do you want to control them on bios, software or an external fan controller

3) Do you mind all fans speed together with the temps of the CPU or you want to control them independently?


----------



## Beemo

I am also running Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans all controlled by the Swiftech PWM splitter, quiet and cool.



Yeah the caramel colored fans are growing on me


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beemo*
> 
> I am also running Noctua NF-A14 PWM fans all controlled by the Swiftech PWM splitter, quiet and cool.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the caramel colored fans are growing on me


Seems like Fractal owner are prefering nocuta, i also have 7 noctua NF-A14 PWM to be mounted on the Acr Midi2 / Define R4 on the weekend.

Btw if you dont mind me asking, how low is the Gigabyte Bios allows to run the NF-A14 PWM? Im interested on knowing the minimum % the bios allows and the respective RPMs it displays.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

I also use 6x A14 PWM with Swiftech Splitter.
All control is done via SpeedFan. I have it set to 30% always, and it ramps up to 60%. For extra cooling while gaming. Not needed, as temps are below 60c.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I also use 6x A14 PWM with Swiftech Splitter.
> All control is done via SpeedFan. I have it set to 30% always, and it ramps up to 60%. For extra cooling while gaming. Not needed, as temps are below 60c.


Thanks for the info, interesting you chose speedfan having FanXpert2, did you tried Fanxpert2? o you didnt like it?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Asus own software is crap. If you look at what it is installed, other junk in the background. Once you uninstall the extra process is still there.
I use Sabertooth board, so i have Thermal Armor. All Asus software is limited preset lowest value. Too me it is bloatware.
Speedfan I can get to 0% if I want to turn off fans completely. Much easier and better fan curve. Asus is only 3 points, Speedfan can do 16 points.

The big issue is how the temp is monitored, which is incorrect. As Asus software dont not see core temps. I had it once testing showed 48c stress load, which Real temp showed 62c
It didnt scale properly to the speed I want.
Asus boards only PWM header is CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT. The rest might be 4 pin, but it is voltage control. Which is bad for PWM fans. Asus software min setting is 40% (5 volt), Speedfan cant control it, meaning no PWM.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Asus own software is crap. If you look at what it is installed, other junk in the background. Once you uninstall the extra process is still there.
> I use Sabertooth board, so i have Thermal Armor. All Asus software is limited preset lowest value. Too me it is bloatware.
> Speedfan I can get to 0% if I want to turn off fans completely. Much easier and better fan curve. Asus is only 3 points, Speedfan can do 16 points.
> 
> The big issue is how the temp is monitored, which is incorrect. As Asus software dont not see core temps. I had it once testing showed 48c stress load, which Real temp showed 62c
> It didnt scale properly to the speed I want.
> Asus boards only PWM header is CPU_FAN & CPU_OPT. The rest might be 4 pin, but it is voltage control. Which is bad for PWM fans. Asus software min setting is 40% (5 volt), Speedfan cant control it, meaning no PWM.


Thanks for the detail response. For some of the same reasons and some issues im having with my GENE VI, im moving away from Asus, specially i don't like the way asus measures the temp, sometimes my cores are at 60C and the asus reporting like 40C. I also think the AI Suite III is way to heavy for users that only need or want FanXpert2, i do like fanXpert2 though, its very good into testing fans and having a curve into what i can accomplish, another good thing on Asus side is their sensors can read extremely low rpms, on my experience on build i did with MSI Z77A G43 i couldn't read below 400rpm (even though the fans are still spinning). The AI Suite itself is not super stable either, there are incomplete things, even uninstalling is hard. That said i would love to see FanXpert2 as a stand alone, i like Speedfan but do like the ease of use of fanXpert2.

Because of the above, i went to test NF-A14 PWM on my friends MSI Z77A G43, and i was able to drop them very low, specially into how MSI has done their BIOS/UEFI PWM fan control, i can use the 0% 12.5% and 25% easily on NF-A14 PWM, and and set min/max temp and % on the bios (not 16 point like speed fan nor 3 points like FanXpert2), but i can test tweak to make it work without any software at all, which is my goal atm.










Worth mentioning that Asus on their ROG Z87 mobos sucks on pure bios, on manual preset on CPU_FAN the place a 40% minimum... this imo is a mistake on their part compared to what MSI on theri CPU_FAN having much lower restrictions.. Im interested into how are the restrictions on fan management on Gigabyte though.


----------



## F4lkon

Hi, I want to watercool my rig but I need Your help, namely what should I buy to build correct LC ? What kind of radiators fill fit in my ARC midi R2. I am planning SLI and OC my 2xGTX680 and i5 2500K.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F4lkon*
> 
> Hi, I want to watercool my rig but I need Your help, namely what should I buy to build correct LC ? What kind of radiators fill fit in my ARC midi R2. I am planning SLI and OC my 2xGTX680 and i5 2500K.






3:53 talks about radiators.


----------



## Kitarist

Does anyone else own both: Fractal Design R4 And Fractal Design Arc Midi R2?

If you do can you please post some side by side pics of them?

Thanks!!!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Does anyone else own both: Fractal Design R4 And Fractal Design Arc Midi R2?
> 
> If you do can you please post some side by side pics of them?
> 
> Thanks!!!


This was a couple pages back...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Well my cases arrived, Fractal Design Define R4 and Arc Midi R2.
> 
> 
> 
> ill be building next next week once my ATX MSI Z87-GD65 arrives, im really interested into testing both more restricted/quiet oriented R4 vs the more open ARC MIDI R2. I want to test the following
> 
> 1) 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM on both cases (2 in two out)
> 2) 6x Noctua NF-A14 PWM (3 in and 3 out)
> 3) 7x Noctua NF-A14 PWM only on R4 to see if the side matter at all on single gpu.
> 
> I really want to see the temp and noise (although this will be more subjective).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Thanks for the detail response. For some of the same reasons and some issues im having with my GENE VI, im moving away from Asus, specially i don't like the way asus measures the temp, sometimes my cores are at 60C and the asus reporting like 40C. I also think the AI Suite III is way to heavy for users that only need or want FanXpert2, i do like fanXpert2 though, its very good into testing fans and having a curve into what i can accomplish, another good thing on Asus side is their sensors can read extremely low rpms, on my experience on build i did with MSI Z77A G43 i couldn't read below 400rpm (even though the fans are still spinning). The AI Suite itself is not super stable either, there are incomplete things, even uninstalling is hard. That said i would love to see FanXpert2 as a stand alone, i like Speedfan but do like the ease of use of fanXpert2.


Fan expert is a nice feature but when you think about it controlling fans based on inaccurate temp readings its not so nice anymore. You can still use it to get an idea of your fan specs and then use that info for speed fan though. Speed fan is nice in that it can control individual fans based on temperatures measured from various sensors and they can be assigned to whatever fan you want.


----------



## F4lkon

to *Rar4f*

I know this film mate







. I am looking for sufficient equipment to build my first LC and I expect it wiil be anticipate to chill high OC CPU & SLI







.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Wow this is great!!!
> 
> I really cant decide which case to get and i'm actually between these two!!!
> 
> Could you please make some more HQ pictures of these two cases side by side?
> 
> Thanks!!!


I'll try to get you some pics, atm i dont have SLR with me, just my ipad =(, but ill see if my brother can borrow me his. Ill be building on the weekend so expect the photos on Monday, btw you interested on anything in particular?
Quote:


> Speed fan is nice in that it can control individual fans based on temperatures measured from various sensors and they can be assigned to whatever fan you want.


TBH i have tried speed fan like 3 times and i never been able to set it up well or there always sensor not recognized or doesnt display something, i bet is great on a motherboard that all sensors have supprot, but it just havent been the case for me. That said, yours and Sp33d Junki3 comments are making want to try again, so ill probably give a shot. Since you guys know it fairly well, do you have any tutorials or web that teaches easily how to set it up properly?


----------



## Kitarist

Would it be possible to make any pics today or as soon as possible?

Thanks!!!


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Would it be possible to make any pics today or as soon as possible?
> 
> Thanks!!!


I could it today but out of a ipad, very bad quality.


----------



## ataryens

Hello everyone,

I was wondering if any node owners could give me these dimensions of the for node 605:



and also the dimensions of the hard drive cages in the node 304 (including height).

Thanks in advance


----------



## Kitarist

Please post some of them anyway


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Read a few post up, it was already done.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Please post some of them anyway


Here are the pictures between Define R4 and Arc Midi R2 side by side,


----------



## Kitarist

Wow thanks for the pics man!!! The only pic that is missing is the one from the angle. Now i just need to decide which one to get as both look so awesome.

I wish they would make a hybrid somehow then it would be perfect!!

So how do you like them and which one do you prefer?

Thanks man!!!


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Wow thanks for the pics man!!! The only pic that is missing is the one from the angle. Now i just need to decide which one to get as both look so awesome.


If you were to have posted a little earlier i would have take it, but now they are in their boxes again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> I wish they would make a hybrid somehow then it would be perfect!!


Hybrid how... i mean what do you want from either that the other don't have? Bitumen, moduvents and the door is clearly for R4 as its oriented for more quiet operation, the same can be said of the mesh front n top of the arc midi being more open oriented for better airflow. Window both have versions with it, Arc Midi without window... yes this could be, but most like the window, i like it also, but i wanted to test with n without.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> So how do you like them and which one do you prefer?


Looks i dont care at all, but both look nice imo, i can some liking the more laid back style of the Define while others liking the more aggressive look of the Arc Midi, not one better looking imo just different. One thing that i do like about the Acr Midi is the easy of taking out the front grill/foam, while on the Define is more difficult to take the filter out, i also like more the mounting of the frontal fans on the Arc Midi than on the Define. I don't like too much that the Arc Midi has foam instead of mesh filter, but i haven't tested it or clean it to see if its better or worst. Overall i dont have a preference yet, these are things that i don't care much.

What i do care is temperatures and specially noise, i bought both because i do want to test with Noctua NF-A14 on multiple config on very low and mid rps into which of the two would net better temperatures and less noise. In theory the Define should win in the noise, and the Arc midi should win on temperatures, but i want to see how much on either case. My theory is that the Arc Midi should allow more efficient airflow allowing spin the fans lower, creating very little noise, ending a better solution than the R4, but then again there is mesh on front and top, usually grills/mesh creates turbulence and this ends up in noise, so could the that the front of the Define and bitumen could damp it to the point that i could ran the fans higher without perceiving the extra noise, this is what my weekend will be about.


----------



## Moragg

IMO the Midi r2 looks a lot better, especially from the top.

Running the included fans at 7V they are barely audiable. Filters are great, I never realised how much dust they stop, and I'm really glad my top is filtered in case I want to add fans there.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F4lkon*
> 
> Hi, I want to watercool my rig but I need Your help, namely what should I buy to build correct LC ? What kind of radiators fill fit in my ARC midi R2. I am planning SLI and OC my 2xGTX680 and i5 2500K.


I would check [Build Log] Arc Under Water (Bitspower, EK, Alphacool, and all that jazz), really amazing build, almost made me go to water, and probably will if air starts to get rough when i upgrade to SLI. Check also the following videos.
.



.



.
.



.



.
.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Wow thanks for the pics man!!! The only pic that is missing is the one from the angle. Now i just need to decide which one to get as both look so awesome.
> 
> I wish they would make a hybrid somehow then it would be perfect!!
> 
> So how do you like them and which one do you prefer?
> 
> Thanks man!!!


I am also in same boat as you. But i recently am leaning towards R4, it looks pretty nice


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Spoiler: Post from Abula
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try to get you some pics, atm i dont have SLR with me, just my ipad =(, but ill see if my brother can borrow me his. Ill be building on the weekend so expect the photos on Monday, btw you interested on anything in particular?
> TBH i have tried speed fan like 3 times and i never been able to set it up well or there always sensor not recognized or doesnt display something, i bet is great on a motherboard that all sensors have supprot, but it just havent been the case for me. That said, yours and Sp33d Junki3 comments are making want to try again, so ill probably give a shot. Since you guys know it fairly well, do you have any tutorials or web that teaches easily how to set it up properly?


There wasn't an easy guide that I could find. I used a YouTube video tutorial for basics and then searched here to get the rest set up the way I wanted. It for sure took some time to figure it all out and rename the sensors, etc., but it gives you more control than fan expert.
You can still use fan expert, but I would see how temps from Asus compare to actual temps with real temp or coretemp and then adjust fan expert accordingly to compensate for the Asus false readings.


----------



## michael-ocn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I am also in same boat as you. But i recently am leaning towards R4, it looks pretty nice


An appealing feature of the Midi missing from the Define are the offset radiator mounts up top. The mesh grill panel over the top is pretty nice too, but that's just cosmetic. I'm interested in seeing what Abula finds in his parallel builds.


----------



## Beemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Seems like Fractal owner are prefering nocuta, i also have 7 noctua NF-A14 PWM to be mounted on the Acr Midi2 / Define R4 on the weekend.
> 
> Btw if you dont mind me asking, how low is the Gigabyte Bios allows to run the NF-A14 PWM? Im interested on knowing the minimum % the bios allows and the respective RPMs it displays.


Honestly I haven't had good luck with Gigabytes so called fan control. Their software that apparently always control over the fans never works on my PC, if I manage to download it all I get is an error message. Although in doing research on the subject EasyTune 6 is a joke anyway so I gave up on it.

If I go into bios and change the fan control to Manual and then the lowest PWM voltage (Slope PWM .75) CPUID Hardware monitor says 500 RPM is the minimum. If I ever could get speedfan to work I would use it but I cant so I don't.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beemo*
> 
> Honestly I haven't had good luck with Gigabytes so called fan control. Their software that apparently always control over the fans never works on my PC, if I manage to download it all I get is an error message. Although in doing research on the subject EasyTune 6 is a joke anyway so I gave up on it.
> 
> If I go into bios and change the fan control to Manual and then the lowest PWM voltage (Slope PWM .75) CPUID Hardware monitor says 500 RPM is the minimum. If I ever could get speedfan to work I would use it but I cant so I don't.


Thanks for the feeback on the gigabyte (+rep), the outcome of the rpms is very similar to Asus minium on manual (40%) on NF-A14 PWM. Here is a screenshot of the bios with the noctua,

. 

I still find it baffling that they are restricting users that much, when MSI allows 0%, 12.5%, 25%, 37.5% on pure bios, all lower than ASUS, i even started a petition ASUS Bios fan control request, but a new bios came out two days ago and no changes ='(, so here i come MSI,

Btw here is a crappy screenshot that i took while testing the NF-A14 PWM on MSI Z77A-G43 on BIOS, hopping it behaves the same on the MSI Z87-GD65 =)



I can still run it at 12.5% and 0% on it, and fan spins fine, just the mobo doesnt report rpm below 400rpm, will see how is the Z87 on the weekend.


----------



## Beemo

You're most welcome.

Your picture got me thinking so I moved a few things around and came up with some odd results.

Basically I plugged a Noctua into the mobo System Fan 2, while keeping a Noctua plugged into the CPU header. Set both fan controls to Manual and .75 Slope.

The upper most RPM and PWM readings are the CPU the other is System Fan 2
http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/20130918_215413_zpsb58e4344.jpg.html

I then went into windows (keeping previous settings) and checked HWMonitor and noticed something odd.
FANIN0 is the CPU and FANIN2 is System Fan 2
http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Tarant/media/Capture_zpsd232a90f.jpg.html

So I would assume the bios reading is more accurate than HWMonitor but I don't know for sure. I find it odd there is such a large discrepancy.

I agree, you would think with so many companies offering all kinds of customizing/developer options (Heck! EVGA lets me have 3 bios settings on my GPU) that someone would come up with a good simple program that simply allows users to control fan speeds. Is it really that hard?


----------



## Rar4f

If anyone could shed some light on how well the R4 Define noise protection works, would be awesome.
Please







?
Would be great to hear how much noise comes from the case when having 4 or 5 fans installed and running at medium to max rpm.

I like the look of R4 Define more than R2 arc midi.
But if i find out the noise damping isn´t significant, then ill get the R2 arc.


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> If anyone could shed some light on how well the R4 Define noise protection works, would be awesome.
> Please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> Would be great to hear how much noise comes from the case when having 4 or 5 fans installed and running at medium to max rpm.
> 
> I like the look of R4 Define more than R2 arc midi.
> But if i find out the noise damping isn´t significant, then ill get the R2 arc.


Hey man, I've got the R4 along with 4 fractal design case fans (2 front, 1 side & 1 rear) along with a Hyper EVO 212 with Fan and 2 x GTX 670 in SLI (4 fans in total).

I can say this case is the quietest I have had. It does get slightly loud when playing BF3(for example) but that is because of the GTX 670's slaving away, nothing to do with case fans - they emit a nice whoosh/blow(didn't know how to describe) noise when high in RPM. I use the fan software included with ASUS motherboards to keep them at low RPM in normal usage.

Just got an ASUS Maximus VI Formula motherboard delivered today - this gives me the option to add 2 extra fractal design fans - I odn't like the look of other fans to be honest, especially Noctua(UGH!!).


----------



## Rar4f

Thanks friend. But noise noticed when playing bf is not good. In that case (no pun intended), ill prolly go with r2.
Dont see point of r4 define if noise from gpu is heard.

Though i must say its pretty great case anyway.

R2 midi arc is winning the race now







has extra stock fan, and i prefer its top vents (3) vs define r4 (2).


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> R2 midi arc is winning the race now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> has extra stock fan, and i prefer its top vents (3) vs define r4 (2).


It's also one of the best cases for your money right now. It's listed at $65/shipped on Newegg:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031&Tpk=arc%20midi%20r2


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Thanks friend. But noise noticed when playing bf is not good. In that case (no pun intended), ill prolly go with r2.
> Dont see point of r4 define if noise from gpu is heard.
> 
> Though i must say its pretty great case anyway.
> 
> R2 midi arc is winning the race now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> has extra stock fan, and i prefer its top vents (3) vs define r4 (2).


its sound DAMPENING, not sound ISOLATING









on another note, if you have a reference card, it will be loud in any case P:


----------



## Hawxie

A PC can only be as quiet as the components allow it.
Sure a dampened case will help, but dont expect miracles.


----------



## Rar4f

but not any case is supposed to stop noise.
anyway r2 arc midi and r4 define is same price where i live, so if any1 has argument as to why i shud pick r4 let me know.

i find the three vents at top of r2 arc awesome cause then there will be one vent (one in middle) without a fan. ill use reartop for exhaust and first vent at top as intake possibly noctua 140mm without any noise adapter for static pressure sake.
with r4 define ud not have the same thing.

though r4 has nicer design and sound dampening.

ill prolly use headset also so sound dampening becomes useless.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

the 3rd vent is ok, it is above the ODD bay, so cooling or exhaust is not going to be helpful.
The R2 has more flexibility with air cooling, as to watercooling also.


----------



## gdubc

The define r4 is like a simplified but refined midir2.


----------



## Rar4f

i think its good to have a fan installed at were odrive is at, noctua 140m nf a14 flx witjout noise adapter.
air can be inhaled in and then drawn towards cpu. and since its far away from reartop exhaust the likelyhood of hot air being inhaled back in is less.

ill remove top hdd cage (dont need it) and reposition lower one. by doing the latter i wont be able to use bottom intake vent but i feel the same way about this vent as i do about instaling intake next to exhaust at top.
with psu exhausting and narrow space at bottom i dont find it ideal for a intake unless i must.

but i have following setup in mind:
140mm x 2 front stockfan brand INTAKE
140mm Noctua a14 flx without noise adapter 1.50staticpressure above odrive INTAKE

and 140mm stock fans at top rear and rear exhaust

thats around 200cfm intake vs 100cfm exhaust. some of intake air will be taken by components and filters. but still shud be positive pressure.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

200cfm intake it is not. What it says on the box is not what it actually is. Most specs are done in open bench, once behind grills and filters those numbers change dramatically.
Take a look at my system, you will see how I have my fans setup.
The one in the ODD really do not do anything, and I would leave is empty.


----------



## Rar4f

thanks for enlightening me. but the point still stands, intake will be more than exhaust, but why not have a fan installed at odrive area? is it really that bad spot even with a fan with high static pressure?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

All the air is doing is siting in an area where there is nothing. That area the fan is not lines up with the others, so it sits farther back.
I have tried it there, did nothing for airflow and temps.
If you looked at my setup you will see only exhaust is the rear. The rest is all intake.


----------



## Spritanium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The define r4 is like a simplified but refined midir2.


Basically. Aren't they almost identical inside?


----------



## Fester1

I tried building a rig with m specs but it's not showing up for some reason so I'm posting here as to what else I have.

HARDWARE

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504

Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821

Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card 02G-P4-2678-KR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130787

Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB SATA III 7200 RPM 64 MB Cache Internal Desktop Hard Drive Bulk/OEM - WD1002FAEX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533

CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/AM3+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

SSD Hard Drive: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-148-442

Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model CML8GX3M2A1600C9
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186

Optical Drive: Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive IHAS424-98 - Retail (Black)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106335

Monitor: Dell UltraSharp U2412M Black IPS Panel 24" 8ms Pivot, Swivel & Height Adjustable LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 DC 2,000,000:1 (1000:1) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260047

Speaker: DELL UltraSharp and Professional Series 468-7412 10 W 2.0 AX510 Flat Panel Stereo SoundBar http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836260002&Tpk=Dell%20AX510

Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020
Power Supply: ?

SOFTWARE

Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium
Productivity Suite: Office 2010 Home & Student Edition


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> I tried building a rig with m specs but it's not showing up for some reason so I'm posting here as to what else I have.
> 
> HARDWARE
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 4000 BX80637I53570K
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504
> 
> Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821
> 
> Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 FTW 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card 02G-P4-2678-KR
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130787
> 
> Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB SATA III 7200 RPM 64 MB Cache Internal Desktop Hard Drive Bulk/OEM - WD1002FAEX
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533
> 
> CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/AM3+
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
> 
> SSD Hard Drive: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-148-442
> 
> Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model CML8GX3M2A1600C9
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186
> 
> Optical Drive: Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive IHAS424-98 - Retail (Black)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106335
> 
> Monitor: Dell UltraSharp U2412M Black IPS Panel 24" 8ms Pivot, Swivel & Height Adjustable LED Backlight Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 DC 2,000,000:1 (1000:1) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260047
> 
> Speaker: DELL UltraSharp and Professional Series 468-7412 10 W 2.0 AX510 Flat Panel Stereo SoundBar http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836260002&Tpk=Dell%20AX510
> 
> Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl w/ USB 3.0 ATX Mid Tower Silent PC Computer Case
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020
> Power Supply: ?
> 
> SOFTWARE
> 
> Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium
> Productivity Suite: Office 2010 Home & Student Edition


You dont need more then 550 watts for that system

If you can wait a little the brand new Cooler Master V550S sould show up on websites


----------



## Fester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Some questions,
> 
> 1) What motherboard do you have
> 
> 2) Do you want to control them on bios, software or an external fan controller
> 
> 3) Do you mind all fans speed together with the temps of the CPU or you want to control them independently?


As this is my first PC build, I have no idea. Which one would you recommend? I literally have all the parts in my closet, still in the boxes. Just waiting on PSU & fans.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> As this is my first PC build, I have no idea. Which one would you recommend? I literally have all the parts in my closet, still in the boxes. Just waiting on PSU & fans.


Well there is no better choice, its a matter of preference. I think Asus FanXpert2 is pretty good aside from the temp reading, easy to setup and use. Speedfan seems the more versitle software but dependant on having support for the motherboard sensors and headers, in some is great in some its missing some, also hard to setup (at least for me). Bios imo is the best for somone looking for having no extra software running, but not all bios are good and this will bind you to PWM fans and only used from CPU_FAN header, so all fans will practically run the same, this can have issues if you dont go for the same fans.

Maybe post what you have bought already, that will help some, and what you want, i mean you going water or want air, you have budget for PSU n Fans or unlimited...


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> All the air is doing is siting in an area where there is nothing. That area the fan is not lines up with the others, so it sits farther back.
> I have tried it there, did nothing for airflow and temps.
> If you looked at my setup you will see only exhaust is the rear. The rest is all intake.


I took a look but i couldn´t find where you placed the fans and whether it is intake or exhaust, and cfm data of your setup.

So if you could point me to that ill appreciate it


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> If anyone could shed some light on how well the R4 Define noise protection works, would be awesome.
> Please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> I like the look of R4 Define more than R2 arc midi.
> But if i find out the noise damping isn´t significant, then ill get the R2 arc.


Cases on their own will just help but wont make a noisy setup silent. this is a mistake that some assume when building a quiet PC, they want their case to fix their noise issues and this is not possible. The Define is a more restricted case on airflow (flexible as you can open more moduvents if you want more air). but the idea is to try to dampen part of that noise, like with hdd enclosing them on dampening boxes, its kinda the same principle, just here you cant do a total lockup as the PC needs air to cool itself. But the more open it is the more noise will get out easier and reach to you, but my theory is if i have every component quiet there is no need to enclose it, and if it goes right reverse it, a more closed setup will hurt as it will have more restriction on the fans to move air in and out, thus needing higher rpms to sustain the same cooling as more open air, again this all theories that i want to test, and should do some on the weekend. But just recapping, dont expect the Define to do miracles on noise if you are placing noisy components inside, chose your components wisely and you should be great even without a low noise case, the define should help lowering some, but just like the cherry on the ice cream.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Dont see point of r4 define if noise from gpu is heard.


Again the decision comes from planning your setup, there are very quiet GPUs, even high end. MSI GTX780/770/760 Gaming (N780/N770/N760) all are very queit gpus, now if you OC to the hell of it, dont expect it to be quiet, the GPU will react to it and will increase the fans thus the noise.


----------



## Rar4f

Just a question.

If i install a intake fan at bottom (next to psu), how much of the hot air from PSU will it inhale?


----------



## Kimir

Erm... none?.
Power supply fan are intake, so if you put it on the bottom, it will take the air from the bottom and eject it in the back.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Erm... none?.
> Power supply fan are intake, so if you put it on the bottom, it will take the air from the bottom and eject it in the back.


Awesome, that puts my worry to rest. You see i thought PSU was exhaust.

Dont ask me where i got that idea. Prolly someone did a inception on me.
or...im just stupid.

nope, it was inception i tell you


----------



## Spritanium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Awesome, that puts my worry to rest. You see i thought PSU was exhaust.
> 
> Dont ask me where i got that idea. Prolly someone did a inception on me.
> or...im just stupid.
> 
> nope, it was inception i tell you


Old/cheap PSUs have 80mm exhaust fans on the back. Newer models usually have a 120-140mm intake fan on the bottom, and open ventilation on the back.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spritanium*
> 
> Old/cheap PSUs have 80mm exhaust fans on the back. Newer models usually have a 120-140mm intake fan on the bottom, and open ventilation on the back.


The most common fan size is 135mm

Some units dont even need a fan

Super Flower Enermax and Seasonic all have models that are fanless


----------



## oshu

Arc Midi R2 nude pics


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Arc Midi R2 nude pics


look at them exposed vents. dayum!


----------



## pcoutu17

I just have a couple questions about the mini r2, which I know isn't released yet. I'm just slightly confused on some of the specs listed on their page. Is the top able to equip 3x120mm fans and also 2x140mm and a 120mm, or is it just the first combination?

Also, what would be a good fan setup? I'm definitely thinking 2x120mm in the front as intake and a rear 120mm as exhaust, but I'm not sure about the top. It seems as if 3x120mm as exhaust in the top would rob the cpu cooler (nh-d14) of a lot of air. Would 2x140mm be a better option? Also, what would the bottom mount be best utilized as? I'm assuming intake but I'm not sure. Those with the midi r2 should have a similar experience.


----------



## Moragg

Midi R2: top is basically 140-140-120. You can put 120mm in the 140mm places if desired. The 120mm slot is unusable if you utilise the top ODD slot, and even if you do use it I'm not sure how it could contribute to airflow in a case. It only seems useful if you want a thin 360mm rad up top.

My system runs happily on the 3 included fans, if you want more this is the configuration I'd suggest:

Front - 2x intake
Bottom - 1x intake
Rear - 1x exhaust

Top - bit weird this one. I wouldn't want to put them in exhaust as that would mess up airflow to the cpu-cooler. At most I'd put them intake, but only fairly weak ones to provide some cool air to parts of the mobo or to the cpu cooler.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Arc Midi R2 nude pics


You left the grommets and slot covers on, not nude enough.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> You left the grommets and slot covers on, not nude enough.


Sorry about that


----------



## Abula

I need some help, maybe someone else has experience the problem that I have. Im building on Define R4 but seems like the PCIe cards are not matching with the case as it should, like if I try to screw the cards, the back of the card lifts some, on the GPU don't seem to create a problem because the PCIe 16x has a lock so the gpu kinda pulls a little bit the mobo, but on my omega eclaro there if I screw it the back goes up a little bit and this creates static noise on my speakers, if I unscrew it and push it so the card fits in line with the PCIe x1 then the bracket is like couple of mm out from the screw, not allowing me to secure it, if I do again the pcie card lifts some and the problem comes back.

I read a long time ago there were some user that reported like the Fractal didn't align correctly the PCIe or maybe was the mounting screwed behind the motherboard. Here is a very bad drawing of my problem, probably is not as bad as I make it to be, but it gets the idea.



I still have ARC MIDI R2 that im going to test tomorrow, hopping this one doesn't have this issue, but since they are so alike.... idk. Maybe some owner has dealth with this issue before or knows what to do.

Thanks again for any info,


----------



## gdubc

I have the define r4 as well but never had that problem. The instance of it not matching that you are thinking of was with the define xl and the mobo spacers being the wrong size. Is that what it seems like with yours as well? Wish I could help you more.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have the define r4 as well but never had that problem. The instance of it not matching that you are thinking of was with the define xl and the mobo spacers being the wrong size. Is that what it seems like with yours as well? Wish I could help you more.


Thanks trying, im still unsure what it is, but I just finished Arc Midi R2, and its less but its still present, I been trying to see if the motherboard has something or the back of the case is not even, although it does slight force to the screw holes align some I cant see its not flat and leveled. Although all the cards do need some slight force there is no apparent problem, aside from the sound card, here is very noticeable, I leave it uneven and well seated with the PCIe x1 slot and its beautiful, no hiss, no noise, spectacular sound if I may add. But I screw it and it gets slightly uneven with the pciex1 slot... and lots of noise and hiss on my speakers, im starting to think I should just bend the bracket a little









Btw for all this trouble shooting I just rush to the Arc Midi , and didn't do much testing at all, just building and taking apart to see if I could fix it. But I might do the testing later on, just too exhausted atm and cut, and sleepy. Here a pic of how was the build on the Define R4 and some in Arc Midi R2.



 

Btw the MSI bios for fan control is really good, I tested some other fans and now it can read below 400rpm (in the Z77AG43 I couldn't). As with Asus you can only control the CPU_FAN1 then FAN2 is just a mirror, but in MSI you can go much lower than on ASUS on pure bios on PWM fans on CPU_FAN header, 12.5%, 25% and 37.5% are values that are lower than Asus 40% restriction on CPU_FAN header. Here is a screenshot of the bios and my temps at idle,


----------



## Ian2412

Hello I'm new here on this forum and I like all those great builds here so I want to show you mine











Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX
CPU: AMD FX 8120
GPU: XFX Radeon 7870
PSU: Corsair AX750
RAM: Crucial Ballistix 8GB

All sleeving are done by myself









hope you like my RIG


----------



## Rar4f

I like it


----------



## wickedout

Finally got my HIS 7970 x2 put in along with my my new Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H on Friday. The only thing I don't like about this case is your only option is that you can only use HDD or Power LED and not both at the same time. Is that correct? Or did I read the manual wrong? Feel free to fill me in? Otherwise this case is clean and my rig looks fresh and very clean.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ian2412*
> 
> Hello I'm new here on this forum and I like all those great builds here so I want to show you mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
> Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX
> CPU: AMD FX 8120
> GPU: XFX Radeon 7870
> PSU: Corsair AX750
> RAM: Crucial Ballistix 8GB
> 
> All sleeving are done by myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope you like my RIG


Where's your pump?


----------



## Ian2412

Hi I placed the pump in the 5.25 cage.

But there was not the perfect place so I installed the pump on top off the HDD cage


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ian2412*
> 
> Hi I placed the pump in the 5.25 cage.
> 
> But there was not the perfect place so I installed the pump on top off the HDD cage


Generally speaking you want the reservoir to be positioned higher up than the pump so the water falls in to the pump and helps with the flow of water (IIRC)


----------



## [email protected]

Little bit of "Fall Cleaning" today, switched back to the H100 (from a D14)....getting everything ready for the Battlefield 4 Beta....snapped some pictures tonight.


----------



## mphfrom77

Hey guys, I am new to this, can I get a little advice...

XL R2 full size case

Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H motherboard with 3 spots for fans (3 spots I believe).

My case came with 3 140mm fans, and I received 2 more of these exact same fans from Fractal Design. So I have a total of 5 fans.

I originally connected the basic 3 fans to the case's fan controller plug, and that's how I have been using my pc. Is that the best way to utilize the fans, or should I use the motherboard's connectors?

How would I want to connect the remaining 2 fans I recently received?

Thanks.


----------



## gdubc

I would run two front intake and one side intake for gpu with rear exhaust and maybe top back exhaust also. Is your gpu a blower type? If so you could alternately try intake in the top position and see if there is a difference. Might help to have more intake if the fronts are filtered and the gpu is exhausting case air also.

Your mobo has a pwm cpu header, a voltage controlled cpu_opt (that probably mimics the cpu fan...not positive on your board) as well as voltage controlled sys_fan 1-4. It looks like maybe you won't get as much control from the sys_fan 4 compared the others. I would use the mobo headers if possible though as they will most likely give you more control options.


----------



## Ian2412

I know and I will change this problem in the future


----------



## mphfrom77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I would run two front intake and one side intake for gpu with rear exhaust and maybe top back exhaust also. Is your gpu a blower type? If so you could alternately try intake in the top position and see if there is a difference. Might help to have more intake if the fronts are filtered and the gpu is exhausting case air also.
> 
> Your mobo has a pwm cpu header, a voltage controlled cpu_opt (that probably mimics the cpu fan...not positive on your board) as well as voltage controlled sys_fan 1-4. It looks like maybe you won't get as much control from the sys_fan 4 compared the others. I would use the mobo headers if possible though as they will most likely give you more control options.


Okay, thanks.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Little bit of "Fall Cleaning" today, switched back to the H100 (from a D14)....getting everything ready for the Battlefield 4 Beta....snapped some pictures tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks fantastic. I really like the neon green and the subtle lights, leds are not overwhelming like with some rigs.


----------



## ds84

I have the arc midi r2. Would it be benefical if i remove the front and top built-in filters and put in the silverstone ff123-b filter instead? It is much finer and may allow more air to pass through..


----------



## gdubc

The fractal filters are pretty good. I wouldn't worry about it unless they are giving you problems with your temps.


----------



## Rar4f

Is there any point in having a fan filter at rear exhaust of a case?


----------



## gdubc

Not really if its exhaust.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Not really if its exhaust.


But top fans exhaust needs filter right?


----------



## gdubc

I do on mine because it doesnt always run and I was getting a lot of dust falling in. My rear exhaust always runs at least a little.


----------



## glenquagmire

Does anyone have any good mods for making a window on the Design XL R2? Also this case has 6 fan slots, one on bottom, two in front, two on top, one in back and one on side. Is there a right way to have the air flow? POsitive vs Negative air flow? I am using a Watercooling system probably on top two fans. whats the recommendation for fans on this case?


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I do on mine because it doesnt always run and I was getting a lot of dust falling in. My rear exhaust always runs at least a little.


just my thoughts


----------



## Mysticode

Anyone know if Fractal sells a magnetic fangrill for the top of the R4? I think this would be a nice add-on for the case, reflecting the top comments re: dust.


----------



## danilon62

I´ve bought a Fractal Desing Core 1000, Hopping to recieve it tomorrow!


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Anyone know if Fractal sells a magnetic fangrill for the top of the R4? I think this would be a nice add-on for the case, reflecting the top comments re: dust.


you can get custom filters from demciflex. search them up on google.


----------



## Mysticode

Like this? http://www.demcifilter.com/p0397/Fractal-Design-Arc-Midi-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx

Wish it wasn't so expensive, it's just mesh and a few little magnets. I guess I could make my own.


----------



## Trinergy

Hi all,

I am a recent owner of an Arc Midi R2. I was wondering if someone has ever installed a 180mm fan on top? I wanted to use it as an intake. However, I also saw someone had installed a 200mm fan in theirs. Has anyone tried this here?

http://pcpartpicker.com/b/EVJ


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Like this? http://www.demcifilter.com/p0397/Fractal-Design-Arc-Midi-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx
> 
> Wish it wasn't so expensive, it's just mesh and a few little magnets. I guess I could make my own.


yes u can : ) get right material (nylon?) and cut it to top case dimensions. should work good.









alternative is 140mm silverstone filters for both top vents. check their site to see how those filtersnarenlike.


----------



## Mysticode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> yes u can : ) get right material (nylon?) and cut it to top case dimensions. should work good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> alternative is 140mm silverstone filters for both top vents. check their site to see how those filtersnarenlike.


Found http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999240 the shipping cost is almost on par with the product cost. Damn Canada...


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> Found http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999240 the shipping cost is almost on par with the product cost. Damn Canada...


try canadian shopping sites that list shops, to see if u can find a better offer : )


----------



## RnRollie

You know what works amazingly well as filter? Pantyhose.... available in lots of sizes and colours and even with designs








You only need to make a (magnetic) frame or re-use an existing frame

Note that you do not have to order those from Victoria Secret, the cheapest you can find at Walmart will do


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> You know what works amazingly well as filter? Pantyhose.... available in lots of sizes and colours and even with designs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You only need to make a (magnetic) frame or re-use an existing frame
> 
> Note that you do not have to order those from Victoria Secret, the cheapest you can find at Walmart will do


Is there any tutorial on forums for making them?


----------



## gdubc

First you have to wear them and get them broken in.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Is there any tutorial on forums for making them?


lol
Its the internet, so yeah probably









its not that different from making a kite








http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Kite


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> First you have to wear them and get them broken in.


PICS or it didn't happen









but remember, some things can never be unseen , like this
http://assets.cantbeunseen.com/hashed_silo_content/488/a02/754/resized/cantbeunseen-com-5eeaee.jpg


----------



## Pupo

My Core 1000


----------



## Hawxie

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pupo*
> 
> My Core 1000






What in Gods name did you do to get that mirror look at the front?


----------



## MiiX

I WANNA GUESS!!!
Black Acrylic!







:


----------



## baconbriefs

Hey guys, I'm interested in the Arc Mini but I'm worried that the cables of the front panel headers are too short to reach the connectors on my mother. If possible, I would like to route them behind the motherboard tray through the 8-pin hole because the USB3 and front panel header pins are at the upper left portion of my board.


----------



## glenquagmire

My second build. Let me know your thoughts.....first is on the right and new build on left


----------



## glenquagmire

Here is my setup. ..

AMD FX 8350 l Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 4.0) l G Skill 1866 CL8 l Gigabyte 7950 l Cooler Master V1000 l XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240 l Fractal Design XL R2 l OCZ Vertex 4 SSD l (2) 2tb Toshiba HDD l Win TV 2250 l ASUS Blu Ray Burner l Turtle Beach Px5


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconbriefs*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm interested in the Arc Mini but I'm worried that the cables of the front panel headers are too short to reach the connectors on my mother. If possible, I would like to route them behind the motherboard tray through the 8-pin hole because the USB3 and front panel header pins are at the upper left portion of my board.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


the panel i/o cables will fit with no problems. i have mine routed behind the motherboard and peak
out from under with slack for days. so routing through the 8-pin is a piece of cake. buy on, my friend!

airdeano


----------



## baconbriefs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> the panel i/o cables will fit with no problems. i have mine routed behind the motherboard and peak
> out from under with slack for days. so routing through the 8-pin is a piece of cake. buy on, my friend!
> 
> airdeano


Thanks!

I just called up the PC shop 10 minutes away from my house and they delivered the case in less than an hour.









I also have a Seasonic G-550 PSU coming in an hour or two, and I'll probably start transferring the innards of my Bitfenix Prodigy to the Arc Mini when it arrives.


----------



## Pupo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> 
> What in Gods name did you do to get that mirror look at the front?


It is Black Acryl


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pupo*
> 
> It is Black Acryl


Might pick some of that up at some point, when I get some more $$$ rolling.


----------



## baconbriefs

Would it be safe to connect the 2 stock 120mm fans using a Y-splitter to just a single connector of the free fan controller? Apparently, the connectors labeled FAN2 and FAN3 are dead...


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconbriefs*
> 
> Would it be safe to connect the 2 stock 120mm fans using a Y-splitter to just a single connector of the free fan controller? Apparently, the connectors labeled FAN2 and FAN3 are dead...


I never had a problem with Y adapters on AM2+ or 775 cheapo motherboards. You should be ok.


----------



## gdubc

I would check the manual first. It might have the limits of the controller listed in there. Maybe it depends on how the controller is wired, but fractal states it can handle up to 3 fans and I would take that to be that it can only handle one fan per channel. Mobo headers can take two fans typically but a low cost controller like the one in these cases...idk.


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconbriefs*
> 
> Would it be safe to connect the 2 stock 120mm fans using a Y-splitter to just a single connector of the free fan controller? Apparently, the connectors labeled FAN2 and FAN3 are dead...


I have done so with 2 120mm fans, it worked although I only used it briefly.


----------



## baconbriefs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> I never had a problem with Y adapters on AM2+ or 775 cheapo motherboards. You should be ok.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I would check the manual first. It might have the limits of the controller listed in there. Maybe it depends on how the controller is wired, but fractal states it can handle up to 3 fans and I would take that to be that it can only handle one fan per channel. Mobo headers can take two fans typically but a low cost controller like the one in these cases...idk.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> I have done so with 2 120mm fans, it worked although I only used it briefly.


Thanks guys.

I took a closer look at the controller and it seems it simply uses a 3-way splitter hot-glued to a 3-pin header controlled by a single circuit, which means I indeed should be able to use a Y-splitter. I sent an email to Fractal just to be sure though.


----------



## baconbriefs

BTW, were any of your thumb screws overly-tightened out of the box?

I had to use a screwdriver for all of mine. Not to mention one of them was probably tightened by a gorilla that the paint came off.


----------



## SclerosiS

Speaking of fan controllers, i want to ask if somebody has experimented with the one in the Core 3000.Can it handle 5 or 6 fans through extensions? Have asked FD representatives and they say that it cant handle more than 3 fans. Each fan is rated 0,3A. And the transistor in the fan controller is rated to 3A. So it could do it, because if all 6 slots for fans are occupied: 6x0.3=1,8A. And even remains. So, what you say? Ai think its mainly the Amps that are important or im mistaking?


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconbriefs*
> 
> BTW, were any of your thumb screws overly-tightened out of the box?
> 
> I had to use a screwdriver for all of mine. Not to mention one of them was probably tightened by a gorilla that the paint came off.


The screws on my Arc were very tight when I got it. Don't think they were that tight, but close. In other news, somehow while I was installing AcustiPack, I managed to warp my windowed side panel and bend the hooks. Was a major pain getting it back on with with the thumb screws.


----------



## winterrr

My updated Fractal Arc Midi R2!


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterrr*
> 
> My updated Fractal Arc Midi R2!


looks beastly! any better pictures?


----------



## stnz

Yep, better pictures would be nice !
Get some leds inside that beast too


----------



## taem

Hi, first post here, just got an R4 and I'm spec'ing out the parts. Been googling like mad trying to figure out what cpu cooler I can fit with a side fan, hopefully you guys can help me.

FD says max height of 170mm with no side fan. So I was going to use a Noctua C14. But there is a post I found that says a D14 will fit with a side fan. http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2075034

Board is an Asus Z87 Pro. First slot is pcie x1.

The coolers I'm interested in are Noctua D14 or u14s. I'd prefer the u14s but it is 165mm height vs 160 for D14. U14s is also 150mm wide vs 140 for D14.

Can anyone confirm that these will fit with a 140x140x25 side fan?

If either of those coolers won't fit, how about a Hyper 212 EVO or u12s? I'm assuming those aren't a problem but I want to make sure.

Sorry to make this post so long but can I also solicit advice on airflow? I'm thinking 2 front + 1 side intake and 1 rear + 1 top exhaust. Maybe A14 pwms in front and rear and the stock FD fans for side and top. I'm guessing I don't want strong airflow on the side mount, is that wrong?

I could also max out on fans, and I would if it would help, but I'm not sure it would. I worry it might actually hurt, with bottom intake altering airflow for the worse. For a max fan setup I'd probably use stronger fans (a14pwm) in front and rear and less airflow on side, bottom and top (FD R2 140s).

Anyway I love the look and feel of this R4, my only gripe is being unable to mount Thermalright fans in front, side and top. (I don't want to mod deal with modding the fans). The TYs are so much cheaper than the Noctuas and just as good IMHO so I'd love to use those.


----------



## 95birdman

So I just recently installed a Corsair H110 water cooler in my Arc Midi R2, and I mounted it in the front using two of the 140mm Corsair supplied fans on the front of the radiator and two of the Fractal 140mm fans on the back side of the radiator. I currently have no other intake fans since I had to move my HDD cage inward to clear the radiator. Will there be much difference in CPU temps if I mount the radiator on the top of the case as an exhaust and put the two 140mm Fractal fans back on the front of the case? Or keep it and buy 2 more 140mm fans to mount on top?


----------



## Trinergy

The major issue is that the Fractal case fans are not really that good at pulling air through the radiator. I would get a CORSAIR SP120 twin pack, mount them in the top as push/pull with the included cooler fans as intake. Then move the FD case fans to the front as intake and the rear as the only exhaust. That will create lots of positive air pressure pushing hot air out as well getting some cool air for your GPU. Heck, get another FD fan for the bottom as intake and connect the two in the front to the fan controller for control via the front switch. The rear exhaust can be connected to the motherboard.


----------



## gdubc

I agree with trinergy.


----------



## 95birdman

Since the 120mm high static fan is recommended, will I need an adapter like the Koolance 140/120mm fan adapter or is there another way to mount the fans to the radiator to the case all together?


----------



## m33w

Hi here's my fractal design arc midi build. Just going with a closed loop CM 120m for now... And its a borrowed 640 i got while waiting for the r9 290. What do you think?
____________________________________
Specs:
Cpu: amd fx 8350
Mb: asus something
Ram: 16gb kingston hyper-x
Gpu: nvidia gt640, soon to be amd r9 290
Ssd: samsung 120gb
Hdd: 2tb
Psu: antec 550w
Wc: Cooler master 120m


----------



## Trinergy

Cant enlarge the picture. Use Rigbuilder to list your parts and add more pics if you have them, then we can comment.


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *95birdman*
> 
> Since the 120mm high static fan is recommended, will I need an adapter like the Koolance 140/120mm fan adapter or is there another way to mount the fans to the radiator to the case all together?


Oh sorry, forgot you had a H110. Then you would have to get some other brand, as it appears Corsair doesn't make SPs in 140mm.

Maybe Silverstone Air Penetrators AP141 or their FHP141s.


----------



## 95birdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Oh sorry, forgot you had a H110. Then you would have to get some other brand, as it appears Corsair doesn't make SPs in 140mm.
> 
> Maybe Silverstone Air Penetrators AP141 or their FHP141s.


I ended up ordering a pair of bgears b-Blaster 140mm fans with 3.5mm h20 static pressure to mount as pulls on the radiator. The stock Fractal 140mm fans are going either to the top of the case, or the front if I move the radiator. I'll just test them both out. Thanks


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *95birdman*
> 
> I ended up ordering a pair of bgears b-Blaster 140mm fans with 3.5mm h20 static pressure to mount as pulls on the radiator. The stock Fractal 140mm fans are going either to the top of the case, or the front if I move the radiator. I'll just test them both out. Thanks


Sounds like a strong set of fans. Just make sure if you have the radiator mounted in the front to put a case fan next to the PSU at the bottom to feed some cool air to your GPU. Otherwise the hot air from the front mounted radiator gets recycled by your GPU.


----------



## Rar4f

Just a simple question: R4 Define comes with 2 stock fans. One Intake and one Exhaust.

The intake can be used for exhaust right? Because i want to move the intake to top-rear as a exhaust.

Thank you


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Just a simple question: R4 Define comes with 2 stock fans. One Intake and one Exhaust.
> 
> The intake can be used for exhaust right? Because i want to move the intake to top-rear as a exhaust.
> 
> Thank you


Yes, you'll be fine. That said, I don't think it's a good idea to remove the front exhaust.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Yes, you'll be fine. That said, I don't think it's a good idea to remove the front exhaust.


I will remove front stock fan and put it as exhaust.

Then install three new intake fans:
2x Noctua a14 FLX 140mm front
1x 140mm r2 silent at bottom


----------



## 95birdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Sounds like a strong set of fans. Just make sure if you have the radiator mounted in the front to put a case fan next to the PSU at the bottom to feed some cool air to your GPU. Otherwise the hot air from the front mounted radiator gets recycled by your GPU.


With the radiator and 4 fans attached to it, I have to move the HDD cage inwards which uses the frontmost bottom fan mounting points, so it doesn't really look like I can mount a fan there, at least not using the factory mounting points. If the mounting points weren't elevated it would be much easier. Even though my GPU is running good temps, the GPU fans are definitely working more in my games. Soo, maybe I would be better off with the radiator mounted on top?


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *95birdman*
> 
> I ended up ordering a pair of bgears b-Blaster 140mm fans with 3.5mm h20 static pressure to mount as pulls on the radiator. The stock Fractal 140mm fans are going either to the top of the case, or the front if I move the radiator. I'll just test them both out. Thanks


i still use the B-Blaster 140 fans and you won't need four (push/pull for that thin of a radiator
of fin density. you might gain 2°-4° temp drop, but the headache of low clearance comes into
play. single set (push or pull) with that strong of a fan (even at 7v) is plenty of flow. i use two
for the intake on a Alphacool UT60 280 and 3x120 for rad exhaust and still have a positive
to combat dust. so two FD R2 or BGears 140 in front panel and two on H110 and your setup.
might change the rear I/O fan to intake to promote some positive for yourself. and 7v on those
fans makes 'em quite and devilish good air-flow.

airdeano


----------



## dan123123

Just impulse bought this case from a newegg sale a few weeks ago and ran into several problems:

Does the USB port seem ridiculously tight to anyone? on my other cases my USB goes in and out real smooth but on the arc mini it seems like the USB panel is deathgriping my USB drive and i have to use some mild force to pull it out.

also the top fan that came with the case is damaged i think, it isn't sturdy like the fans that came with my other cases. It wobbles when i gently tap it

The mesh part of my top and front panel dont seem completely flush, some of the mesh comes out of the holes

also, whats a good way to stealth the DVD drive bay? i feel like a plastic DVD drive is really going to throw off the sleek aluminium look of the arc mini


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dan123123*
> 
> Just impulse bought this case from a newegg sale a few weeks ago and ran into several problems:
> 
> Does the USB port seem ridiculously tight to anyone? on my other cases my USB goes in and out real smooth but on the arc mini it seems like the USB panel is deathgriping my USB drive and i have to use some mild force to pull it out.
> 
> also the top fan that came with the case is damaged i think, it isn't sturdy like the fans that came with my other cases. It wobbles when i gently tap it
> 
> The mesh part of my top and front panel dont seem completely flush, some of the mesh comes out of the holes
> 
> also, whats a good way to stealth the DVD drive bay? i feel like a plastic DVD drive is really going to throw off the sleek aluminium look of the arc mini


I bought a Arc midi R2 last week only they forget to include the accessoires box with all the screws, zipties and mobo standoffs etc









I ordered a SilverStone SST-SOD02 DVD Drive, and a SilverStone FP58B in black it can house a slim optical slot loading DVD Drive and up to 4 ssd's or 2,5inch hdd's, I need the space for the hdd's because I'm building a WC setup and want to remove the hard drive cages to fit a reservoir and for increased airflow.

I really like the look of the SilverStone FP58B I think it looks way better then a normal DVD drive in there.


----------



## baconbriefs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dan123123*
> 
> Just impulse bought this case from a newegg sale a few weeks ago and ran into several problems:
> 
> Does the USB port seem ridiculously tight to anyone? on my other cases my USB goes in and out real smooth but on the arc mini it seems like the USB panel is deathgriping my USB drive and i have to use some mild force to pull it out.
> 
> also the top fan that came with the case is damaged i think, it isn't sturdy like the fans that came with my other cases. It wobbles when i gently tap it
> 
> The mesh part of my top and front panel dont seem completely flush, some of the mesh comes out of the holes
> 
> also, whats a good way to stealth the DVD drive bay? i feel like a plastic DVD drive is really going to throw off the sleek aluminium look of the arc mini


The USB ports on my Arc Mini are also very tight.

And when you say mesh, do you mean the filter? Some of the "hairs" of my front and top filters seem to stick out of holes too.


----------



## Beatwolf

So I´m getting the Define XL R2 today. Anyone have any tips on where to place the H100i? Will probably be doing push/pull in the future but right now I only have the two standard fans. Don´t think I will be adding more fans to the case itself, unless heat is an issue. Am pretty new to water cooling, in my current case it´s just lying on top of the three 180mm fans.


----------



## Trinergy

Put it up top, one stock fan up front, and another rear exhaust.


----------



## Beatwolf

ok thx, so i should take one out of the front and the bottom one out as well?


----------



## 95birdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> I bought a Arc midi R2 last week only they forget to include the accessoires box with all the screws, zipties and mobo standoffs etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered a SilverStone SST-SOD02 DVD Drive, and a SilverStone FP58B in black it can house a slim optical slot loading DVD Drive and up to 4 ssd's or 2,5inch hdd's, I need the space for the hdd's because I'm building a WC setup and want to remove the hard drive cages to fit a reservoir and for increased airflow.
> 
> I really like the look of the SilverStone FP58B I think it looks way better then a normal DVD drive in there.


^Now that's badass.


----------



## Trinergy

Tell me if I am wrong but according to FD's website you have an intake on the front, bottom, and an exhaust in the rear. There should be nothing on the top. If that is the case then the factory configuration is perfect for you to mount the water cooler on the top without moving any of the included fans around.


----------



## Beatwolf

yep you are absolutely right







Just confused because you said only front and back


----------



## BKinn

I have some updated photos of my build since my old motherboard crapped out on me. I was able to pick up a Asus Sabertooth Z77 on ebay for pretty cheap to replace my Gigabyte.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> I have some updated photos of my build since my old motherboard crapped out on me. I was able to pick up a Asus Sabertooth Z77 on ebay for pretty cheap to replace my Gigabyte.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


I saw your rig in the Phanteks thread, as well. I find the cooler and Design Define R4 a nice combo (Check rig sig).


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> I saw your rig in the Phanteks thread, as well. I find the cooler and Design Define R4 a nice combo (Check rig sig).


Thanks! It seems that great minds think alike!


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> Thanks! It seems that great minds think alike!


Yup.








You might as well add that beautiful rig to your sig. http://www.overclock.net/rigbuilder


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> I bought a Arc midi R2 last week only they forget to include the accessoires box with all the screws, zipties and mobo standoffs etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered a SilverStone SST-SOD02 DVD Drive, and a SilverStone FP58B in black it can house a slim optical slot loading DVD Drive and up to 4 ssd's or 2,5inch hdd's, I need the space for the hdd's because I'm building a WC setup and want to remove the hard drive cages to fit a reservoir and for increased airflow.
> 
> I really like the look of the SilverStone FP58B I think it looks way better then a normal DVD drive in there.


hey just for reference, as I use a different case, bu there is a shot of the front face of the optical drive holder. This thing really is awesome, so sleek and stealthy. I have the Silverstone dvd drive in there and an OCZ Vector 256gb. Get 1 or 2 of those custom made cable that are the T style for Sata. something like this. http://www.moddiy.com/products/4%252dPin-Molex-to-2-x-SATA-Power-Adapter.html

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/dusters_dark_knight/media/WP_20130320_007_zps29e76091.jpg.html


----------



## Trinergy

If you want to use sata connectors Silverstone has an extension that is similar:

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=454&area=en

I have the four plug version for my server. You can actually take the plugs off your self mount to back of drive and push down the wires again which will cut new connections for a perfect fit. You would probably want to sleeve it as well so that the old teeth cuts are hidden.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> hey just for reference, as I use a different case, bu there is a shot of the front face of the optical drive holder. This thing really is awesome, so sleek and stealthy. I have the Silverstone dvd drive in there and an OCZ Vector 256gb. Get 1 or 2 of those custom made cable that are the T style for Sata. something like this. http://www.moddiy.com/products/4%252dPin-Molex-to-2-x-SATA-Power-Adapter.html


Yeah i really like it, i got mine today and installed it in the R2, it was just a quick installation without all screws attached so it isn't the best aligned as I could probably do but atleast youn can see how it eventually would look like.

Excuse me for the crappy pictures my iphone's camera is heavyily damaged and my digital camera's battery charger is also dead





I have no idea why my pictures are uploaded rotated sideways, they are normal on my computer.


----------



## Beatwolf

So got around to putting everything in my newly arrrived Define XL R2. What a joy to work with, plenty of space and no problems at all. Here are some pics, not the best as I only have my camera phone. I think it turned out ok, and it is definetly more quiet than my Raven R02, though compared to how many fans were in that thing maybe not quite as much as I would like. I think its the H100i making this reverberating, and slightly high pitched sound. Oh well, it´s still a lot quiter than before.


----------



## 95birdman

So I got my b-gears Blaster 140mm fans in with 3.5mmH2O static pressure and mounted them in PULL pulling air from outside in through the radiator, and I have cooler temps by a few degress both idle and load. I don't have the room to mount the fans in push or push/pull. I was then able to move my HDD cage inward and mount a bottom fan for an intake, most importantly, to keep my GPU cool, because it was running warm with my last setup. Only exhaust is my rear 140mm fan. The radiator is NOT mounted properly in the correct mounting holes. In order to make everything fit I only used 3 mounting holes on the radiator. It's a pretty tight fit even without the screws so it's not going anywhere.

Before:


After:


----------



## b4db0y

Any news on the Arc Mini R2?

It's such a beast of a mATX case, I can barely find mid tower cases that fit that much water cooling hardware let alone other mATX cases....


----------



## pcoutu17

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Any news on the Arc Mini R2?
> 
> It's such a beast of a mATX case, I can barely find mid tower cases that fit that much water cooling hardware let alone other mATX cases....


I emailed their NA sales department a few weeks ago and they told me it would be available in "early October", so it should be soon.


----------



## Beatwolf

Has anybody with the XL R2 been able to get the power/hdd LED to work? I´ve tried all combinations of connecting those two pins but nothing seems to make that LED light up...


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beatwolf*
> 
> Has anybody with the XL R2 been able to get the power/hdd LED to work? I´ve tried all combinations of connecting those two pins but nothing seems to make that LED light up...


The Define R4 (same as your XL R2, just smaller) dont come with HDD activity leads, its just power on. The Arc Midi R2 does have the cabling and the led to report activity on the hdds. But i guess you could mod it to have it if thats something you need to have.


----------



## Beatwolf

it says in the manual that it can be either for power on LED or for hdd activity, either way neither works for me.


----------



## 95birdman

The Arc Midi R2 does not come with a speaker, but I don't mind it.


----------



## Sencha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Any news on the Arc Mini R2?
> 
> It's such a beast of a mATX case, I can barely find mid tower cases that fit that much water cooling hardware let alone other mATX cases....


I emailed them as well in regards to getting it in the UK. They said they arrive in the UK 1st week of Oct and probably go on sale 1-2 weeks after.


----------



## andyv

Got an arc midi today. Must say I think it is better than the define r4. It just seems more thought out.

Couple of things that would be awesome on the next revision.

1) mesh at the top to properly mount a 360 rad.
2) screw mounted bay drive cage so iyou don't have to drill it out.
3) not sure if it's my rad but better mounting at the front as I can only secure one fan on my 280 rad not both (they have 15mm between the holes and mine is 20) if they have adjustable ones like on the top it would be great.

Also I think extending the motherboard tray to the front would be helpful.


----------



## byterhythm

To those who are using the Define Rxx / Define Mini, What front intake fans are you using?
I have the Define Mini and I did some cooling tests and the fans I am using as front intake does not seem to do anything with regards to cooling my components.
I used a fan controller and I tried to turn off the 2 front intake fans and my cpu/gpu/hdd temps did not even move.

I am currently using Aerocool shark 120mm fans
I did not have any advanced knowledge when I bought the fans, I just saw the advertised 70 CFM and thought that it would be a good buy.


----------



## oshu

Arc Midi R2, WIP:


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *byterhythm*
> 
> To those who are using the Define Rxx / Define Mini, What front intake fans are you using?


On my Define R4 for intake i use 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM, and one out. Did some runs of prime95 between different RPM, and in my setup, going from 650rpm to 1100 (leaving the cpu fan the same) nets about 4C n prime95.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Arc Midi R2, WIP:


What gpu bracket and cooler did you use for your gpu?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Arc Midi R2, WIP:


I guess that rig is a dust collector? Nice rig


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> What gpu bracket and cooler did you use for your gpu?


This http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/4480#post_20607636
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I guess that rig is a dust collector? Nice rig


Doubt it, all intake fans got filters (3*top/1*bottom)... and temps looks great.

After 20h:


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> This http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/4480#post_20607636
> Doubt it, all intake fans got filters (3*top/1*bottom)... and temps looks great.
> 
> After 20h:


Guessed all the top fans was exhaust








Then it looks awesome! 20h of what? Idle or load?


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Guessed all the top fans was exhaust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then it looks awesome! 20h of what? Idle or load?


No stress tests, just gaming, browsing







. Those temps are idle!

(2* GTX480, i7 950)


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> No stress tests, just gaming, browsing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Those temps are idle!
> 
> (2* GTX480, i7 950)


Load numbers would be interesting thought...

I really like how nicely the mod turned out.
ALL THE SCYTHE GTs are just fitting this build.


----------



## Abula

Finally took some pics of the build, but its not finish yet, still waiting for Thermalright HR-22 that should be out before october ends.


----------



## Zelo

Just built my new rig. Arc Midi R2 was great to work with. Now I'm just waiting for AMD's new gpu's to release.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sencha*
> 
> I emailed them as well in regards to getting it in the UK. They said they arrive in the UK 1st week of Oct and probably go on sale 1-2 weeks after.


Well, you are lucky in that regard. From what I have heard it might take another week later to land in the states. I have been waiting for this since the dawn of time (Aug actually). I have all the pieces for my build except a case


----------



## baconbriefs

Can't fit a bottom 120mm fan into my Arc Mini because of PSU.


----------



## Sencha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaitu87*
> 
> Well, you are lucky in that regard. From what I have heard it might take another week later to land in the states. I have been waiting for this since the dawn of time (Aug actually). I have all the pieces for my build except a case


LOL same here. I just bought the last piece this week. Very hard waiting on a case as there's not much to be done without it







.....apart from open my desk draw and stroke the shiny component boxes.


----------



## Greg121986

Fellas,

I am working out the details of a new build and I am really struggling to decide on a case. I'd like to hear from those with experience with Fractal cases. I am stuck between the ARC Mini R2, and Arc Midi R2. I have been wanting to do an mATX build for a long time, but I am not 100% sure I want to commit to it. It is not too limiting considering what the ARC Mini R2 offers - 2 GPUs fit easily, Corsair H110 fits in the top, 2SSds fit in the back, 3 HDDs + fit in the front. I will use all of these features.

The issue is, these things are HEAVY! I've compared the ARC Mini to the Corsair 350D and I could not believe how heavy the Arc Mini was. Available info shows the 350D around 13 lbs, and the ARC Mini R2 is almost 20lbs! The Corsair 350D is eliminated, though, because it only has 2 3.5" HDD bays.

Do you guys with the ARC Mini / Mini R2 / Midi R2 find that the weight of the chassis contributes to its silence? Or, is it just heavy because it's made of all steel? If the steel construction is only a cost savings measure and doesn't help with silence then I am not sure that I want to go with such a heavy case.

Finally, how might I configure the H110 in the top of either case? I am using an MSI Twin Frozr GTX 760 (adding another at some point) so hot GPU air will be exhausted into my case. Should I have the H110 drawing in from the top, with a single fan in the rear exhausting? I would like to have 1 - 2 fans in front drawing air over my HDDs some how. Could I do Corsair H110 intake from top, rear fan intake, and front fans exhaust? I think that would cause dust problems if there is no filter on the rear fan.


----------



## DirtDiver1978

"Darc Arc".......work in progress


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtDiver1978*
> 
> "Darc Arc".......work in progress
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice looking build!
I really like that matt black tubing. What is the brand?
Use the rigbuilder at your profile to show which hardware you are using.

Great work mate.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Nice looking build!
> I really like that matt black tubing. What is the brand?
> Use the rigbuilder at your profile to show which hardware you are using.
> 
> Great work mate.


I think its this one:
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm.html


----------



## DirtDiver1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> I really like that matt black tubing. What is the brand?
> .


Thanks Mate...









Yes it is EKs Tubing.I also use "short" Bitspower Fittings-together it just looks smooth..


----------



## 17jotinha

Good evening, here is my machine still in alterations ..

before







Now with H100, photos soon ...
Coming push / pull


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtDiver1978*
> 
> Thanks Mate...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it is EKs Tubing.I also use "short" Bitspower Fittings-together it just looks smooth..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> I think its this one:
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm.html


Thanks guys!
Just wasn't aware of it..









Btw: nice build 17jotinha








Your rig looks dead clean.


----------



## 17jotinha

Thanks DJKAY


----------



## vangsfreaken

not sure if i ever posted this, but i built this sometime around easter this year


----------



## steelkevin

A friend of mine just brought something quite interesting up about the Midi R2's window.

Does anybody know if the windows just a clear one with a black vinyl sticked on it (like what you'd do on car windows) or if it's a dyed window ?

If it is just a vinyl I wouldn't hesitate a second to remove it.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## 17jotinha

Hello

The acrylic is really dark, you can buy an acrylic transparent in fractal ...
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/accessories/arc-midi-window-side-panel


----------



## steelkevin

Thanks for trying







.

But that wasn't what I was asking. I won't go into details but I have an extra smoked pannel that I'm going to give to a friend of mine. None of us really likes the smoked window and would rather have the clear model. We know they can be bought for 20-40€ (including shipping) but aren't willing to pay for it since we could live with the smoked windows. We were just going to use the smoked version but he had an interesting thought.
You knw how on cars you don't "dye" your windows but apply a dark (or coloured depending on what you're going for) vinyl / sticky film ? Well he thinks that maybe that's what Fractal Design did to get the smoked effect on their windows instead of using true dyed acrylic. Which would mean that people who want a clear window but won't pay almost half the price of their case to get one could just remove the vinyl.

I'll just look up how to remove the vynils on car windows and try it on the scratched smoked windowed pannel I havelaying around in the basement.

If it works I have no doubts quite a few Midi R2 owners like myself would be more than pleased to know.


----------



## Trinergy

Finally finished my rig





Looks like an aquarium through the smoked window with LEDs on.

The smoked window didn't look or feel like a "tint" was applied. Think it is part of the plastic.


----------



## 17jotinha

Nice Trinergy


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Finally finished my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like an aquarium through the smoked window with LEDs on.
> 
> The smoked window didn't look or feel like a "tint" was applied. Think it is part of the plastic.


I dont want to sound rude so please dont take it that way

That PC looks really good only one big problem you have a Raidmax PSU in there

You should really really replace that as soon as you can


----------



## steelkevin

The Midi R2's window is definitely coloured plastic or acrylic or whatever. I tried peeling, cutting, sanding and even burning/heating with my Zippo.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Frankly I would start a poll to see how many of us are waiting for the Arc Mini R2. I have seen a lot guys been idling about for this case. Getting jealous at looking at all those awesome rigs being shown in this thread. Come on fractal we have been waiting long enough....


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> I dont want to sound rude so please dont take it that way
> 
> That PC looks really good only one big problem you have a Raidmax PSU in there
> 
> You should really really replace that as soon as you can


LOL, that was the dilemma. My budget had enough for the 7950 and RaidMax or 7850 and a a legit PSU. Obviously I went with the former. In the meantime I will scan the specials for a nice one.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Finally finished my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like an aquarium through the smoked window with LEDs on.
> 
> The smoked window didn't look or feel like a "tint" was applied. Think it is part of the plastic.


Nice, raidmax PSU not a safe to choice to use.
Also remove the top HDD cage, all it will do is block airflow.
There is many PSU in your budget that will be much better. Take it back and get a different one. You dont need 700w for a single card.


----------



## wickedout

Got my fans today for my Fractal case. I went with Fractal fans to keep my rig cool. Love this case a lot. It's so quiet to! Glad I pulled the trigger on it.


----------



## boomski

Finished for now. Although looking to upgrade my 2500k. The BF4 beta has been kicking its ass but no point in making any decisions until the final product is out!


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> Finished for now. Although looking to upgrade my 2500k. The BF4 beta has been kicking its ass but no point in making any decisions until the final product is out!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> Finished for now. Although looking to upgrade my 2500k. The BF4 beta has been kicking its ass but no point in making any decisions until the final product is out!


The 2500K will most likely be plenty enough.
A friend of mine with a 4670K and a 7870 gets terrible fps drops on the Beta but I get stable fps with my OC'ed i7-860 and GTS240 (waiting on the R9 280X but now I've also got to wait to know for sure the card I'll get will get a waterblock... ) @720p and everything set to the lowest possible setting. Stabing somebody with his computer also lags like hell as it used to on BF3 (with his computer).

We're actually quite worried about BF4. How could they possible fix the game in less than a Month ?


----------



## Pupo

Why do you need to upgrade 2500K? Put him on 4.5-5.0GHz and forget about it. No point of upgrading, especially for games.









BTW Nice work


----------



## wickedout

I'm wondering if I should liquid cool my CPU. I have an H100 that's pretty solid. What do you guys think?


----------



## boomski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pupo*
> 
> Why do you need to upgrade 2500K? Put him on 4.5-5.0GHz and forget about it. No point of upgrading, especially for games. BTW Nice work :thumb:


I do have it at 4.6 and that's probably as far as I would like to push it on that board. The vrm heatsinks get pretty damn toasty as is.

I do a bit of video encoding though and an i7 seems really tempting but I can probably hold off for a year or two. And thanks!


----------



## Greg121986

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaitu87*
> 
> Frankly I would start a poll to see how many of us are waiting for the Arc Mini R2. I have seen a lot guys been idling about for this case. Getting jealous at looking at all those awesome rigs being shown in this thread. Come on fractal we have been waiting long enough....


I _was_ one of those! I couldn't take it any longer and I ordered a Midi R2 last night. Price was so right from NCIX US!


----------



## gdubc

Those sales are just too tempting! I couldn't pass up the deal on the Node the other day. $39.99 is ridiculous! You should still enjoy that midir2. You can do quit a bit with it and even more with a little modding.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chaitu87*
> 
> Frankly I would start a poll to see how many of us are waiting for the Arc Mini R2. I have seen a lot guys been idling about for this case. Getting jealous at looking at all those awesome rigs being shown in this thread. Come on fractal we have been waiting long enough....


i'm still waiting for it







my rig is currently a mess, i don't bother spending money or time on making it pretty before i got the case


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> The 2500K will most likely be plenty enough.
> A friend of mine with a 4670K and a 7870 gets terrible fps drops on the Beta but I get stable fps with my OC'ed i7-860 and GTS240 (waiting on the R9 280X but now I've also got to wait to know for sure the card I'll get will get a waterblock... ) @720p and everything set to the lowest possible setting. Stabing somebody with his computer also lags like hell as it used to on BF3 (with his computer).
> 
> We're actually quite worried about BF4. How could they possible fix the game in less than a Month ?


The BF4 beta version of the game is actually older than the version they are currently working on at the DICE office, so they probably are way ahead of what the Beta represents.

See ''What to expect from the Beta" part of this blog

http://blogs.battlefield.com/2013/09/this-is-the-bf4-beta/

I currently downgraded and upgraded at the same time









I went from an Corsair 650D and a H100 with a Lamptron FC5 (fan controller) and a big DVD drive to, these sleek Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 with a Silverstone FP58B and I think it looks awesome









I installed the Intel i7-2600k stock cooler because I am planning to upgrade to a custom CPU + GPU(new GPU) watercooling loop in the near future, I also upgraded my sleeving of the AX750 to sleeved cables instead of the ugly original ones, it will probably look a lot better when you sleeve them yourself but I never did that before and it's more work, but I am quite pleased with the sleeved cables from corsair I think they look pretty good.

I ordered a 3,5inch to 5.2 bay adapter for my hard drive it is currently laying just loose in the 5.2 bay and therefore my cable management inside the case is still a mess, but that will be fixed as soon as my adapter arrives.

Corsair 650D (photo taken with a broken Iphone camera)



Arc Midi R2





Now save some money for a kick ass graphics card and a custom water cooling setup


----------



## Sencha

For anyone waiting on the arc mini r2 just contact fractal (again) for stock in the UK.

Got the below message
Quote:


> The case is being booked in at distributor right now, so it will be out at re-sellers by next week.
> 
> Best Regards,


Sweet!


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Arc Midi R2
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now save some money for a kick ass graphics card and a custom water cooling setup


Nice and clean build the boxed cooler Looks really out of place.








Ist going to be interesting how the final result will look like.
Good look for saving Money for your machine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sencha*
> 
> For anyone waiting on the arc mini r2 just contact fractal (again) for stock in the UK.
> 
> Got the below message
> Sweet!


Good News









I recently upgraded my gaming rig and my fileserver.

Gaming rig (Midi R1):



I drilled out the drive bays of the MIDI R1
My 1TB black went into a Skythe Humiro and my 2TB green under the 5,25 bay.
The SSD became ist place to cover the ugly sides of the drive bay and because I think that something I payed that but tone of Money for (when it came out) shouldn´t been hided away behind the MOBO tray.
I got the front IO of the Midi R2 of the fractal store but Need to get the R2 frontpannel too, because the old one doesn´t fit.










Spoiler: more pics:













Server (Define R2):



I´m running Server 2012 using storage spaces for the HDDs just because I hope that it will be easier to upgrade the HDDs in the future.


Spoiler: more pics









I would like to hear your thoughts guys.


----------



## wickedout

I've got some questions regarding the non window side panel. There's not a lot of room for cables back there. It's very minimal. So all my cables are neatly zip tied to. My question is when I try to close up the non window panel the last latch doesn't seem to stick. I have to push it in and then lock it down. Do any of you have this issue? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I've got some questions regarding the non window side panel. There's not a lot of room for cables back there. It's very minimal. So all my cables are neatly zip tied to. My question is when I try to close up the non window panel the last latch doesn't seem to stick. I have to push it in and then lock it down. Do any of you have this issue? Thanks in advance!


Give us a screen shot. Usually I think it would be because you are crossing the main atx cable with another bundle. Try hiding as much slack in the bottom channel and top channel.


----------



## Lshuman




----------



## 95birdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*


What are you using for lighting?


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *95birdman*
> 
> What are you using for lighting?


In his Rig page it says he's using a NZXT Hue.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> In his Rig page it says he's using a NZXT Hue.


Yes, you are quite right. It's the NZXT HUE!!!


----------



## nitroxyl

I'm planning to get the NZXT Hue as well when it's in stock!


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Give us a screen shot. Usually I think it would be because you are crossing the main atx cable with another bundle. Try hiding as much slack in the bottom channel and top channel.


Screen shot? It's the bottom right hand corner of the case in the back. It just has to be nudged in there and latched into the hole on the bottom then need to get that lock screw put in. I have all my cables crunched in there nice and tight to.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> Finished for now. Although looking to upgrade my 2500k. The BF4 beta has been kicking its ass but no point in making any decisions until the final product is out!


Are you using Win7 or Win8?

Not to go off-topic in a case club...but if you're on Win7 and experiencing high CPU load / frame stutter, this is a Win7 issue, not your CPU.

I was having the same issues with my sig rig (3770k / 2x GTX 680's). I broke down and picked up Win8 this past weekend, and BAM!

CPU load went WAY down, ZERO frame-stutter, running Ultra 1080p locked at 60fps (w/ vsync)

It's a DX11 vs DX11.1 issue, not your CPU


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> The 2500K will most likely be plenty enough.
> A friend of mine with a 4670K and a 7870 gets terrible fps drops on the Beta but I get stable fps with my OC'ed i7-860 and GTS240 (waiting on the R9 280X but now I've also got to wait to know for sure the card I'll get will get a waterblock... ) @720p and everything set to the lowest possible setting. Stabing somebody with his computer also lags like hell as it used to on BF3 (with his computer).
> 
> We're actually quite worried about BF4. How could they possible fix the game in less than a Month ?


You're getting stable frame rates because you have Windows 8 (DX11.1)

Sorry for double-post...I didn't see this response


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> Screen shot? It's the bottom right hand corner of the case in the back. It just has to be nudged in there and latched into the hole on the bottom then need to get that lock screw put in. I have all my cables crunched in there nice and tight to.


Sorry, I meant a pic. I don't have any issues with the arc midi r2. Could one of the tabs be bent?


----------



## wickedout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Sorry, I meant a pic. I don't have any issues with the arc midi r2. Could one of the tabs be bent?


I figured it out! You have to push it in and then secure the lock screw in the back! It worked for me.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> I'm planning to get the NZXT Hue as well when it's in stock!


Not sure if I shared this *rgb led kit* on this thread or not. Twice the length of the hue and can be wired to a 4pin molex and connected directly to psu. Remote controlled and unlike the hue no drive bay is taken. I have this and a hue and love them both but this has its advantages and is easy to get.

Fellow member Buehlar turned me on to them. If you want to see some good picks of them search for his posts in the vengeance c70 thread.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wickedout*
> 
> I figured it out! You have to push it in and then secure the lock screw in the back! It worked for me.


Good for you then xD.

Well I have a similar problem but it's because my PSU has loads of useless cables so unless I cut them off there's going to be some crossing over the 24pin


----------



## 17jotinha

Now in push / pull ...


----------



## vangsfreaken

ahh, i can't decide between the arc mini r2 and the arc midi r2... my current mobo is m-atx, but at the same time i know my next board will be atx


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> ahh, i can't decide between the arc mini r2 and the arc midi r2... my current mobo is m-atx, but at the same time i know my next board will be atx


I have the midi r2, and (I think) many of the better boards out there are at least ATX, so I'd go with the midi. It's not that big anyway.


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> ahh, i can't decide between the arc mini r2 and the arc midi r2... my current mobo is m-atx, but at the same time i know my next board will be atx


Buy an Arc Midi R2 while it is on sale for your new one at $59.99 after rebate from Newegg. Can't beat the price. When the Mini is released and on sale pick that up for your old MB and start a new build in the Midi.

Midi is a lot bigger than I thought it was but that is to be expected if you want all of the space to hold radiators and fans and cable management.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trinergy*
> 
> Buy an Arc Midi R2 while it is on sale for your new one at $59.99 after rebate from Newegg. Can't beat the price. When the Mini is released and on sale pick that up for your old MB and start a new build in the Midi.
> 
> Midi is a lot bigger than I thought it was but that is to be expected if you want all of the space to hold radiators and fans and cable management.


60 bucks would be considered almost free here in norway... the midi r2 actually retails at 132 bucks here in norway







also, i'm not planning on starting a new build until i can bottleneck my 2600k in games, which means i'm gonna stick to this mobo for a while







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I have the midi r2, and (I think) many of the better boards out there are at least ATX, so I'd go with the midi. It's not that big anyway.


well, i'm not paying for another mobo yet...


----------



## Trinergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> 60 bucks would be considered almost free here in norway... the midi r2 actually retails at 132 bucks here in norway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, i'm not planning on starting a new build until i can bottleneck my 2600k in games, which means i'm gonna stick to this mobo for a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well, i'm not paying for another mobo yet...


Just go for it then! You will be ready for the future when you move on.


----------



## 95birdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*
> 
> Now in push / pull ...


Damn I should have gotten the H100i instead of the H110. My H110 only fits in the front with push/pull, and on top it only works in pull. I prefer it on top because I can then get better air to my GPU


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *95birdman*
> 
> Damn I should have gotten the H100i instead of the H110. My H110 only fits in the front with push/pull, and on top it only works in pull. I prefer it on top because I can then get better air to my GPU


is a non-H100 and H110.
Not exist h100i


----------



## Lukas026

in process of putting together my fd define xl 2:


----------



## matteof93

that's my modded Arc Midi R2


----------



## steelkevin

Delete


----------



## Lukas026

guys I need your help

I am planning on using this fan ( http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=52&lng=en ) on the side panel of FD Define XL R2 but I dont know if it will fit at all becouse I am using Noctua NH - D 14 as cpu cooler and its huge so I dont know if there is still space for the side fan.

anyone tried this ?

thank you


----------



## steelkevin

You could just take one of the stock FD fans that came with the case and see if it fits to be sure







?


----------



## Lukas026

hmm good point









omw to do it !


----------



## 95birdman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*
> 
> is a non-H100 and H110.
> Not exist h100i


Can you translate this to an actual English statement, phrase, claim, or question?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matteof93*
> 
> that's my modded Arc Midi R2 :


VERY sharp looking!

Fantastic build!


----------



## Raghar

Hi boys guess this case:


----------



## jcamp6336

r4?


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Arc midi r2


----------



## Moragg

Look at the top, no vents. Closest thing I can find from Fractal is the old Define XL, but there are a few differences.


----------



## catbuster

My little R4 got an upgrade







dont mind the cable madness


----------



## 17jotinha

Good look


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raghar*
> 
> Hi boys guess this case:


Is it the R4 PCGH-EDITION?
I would like to get one at spme Point because it should be even more silent


----------



## Lukas026

so the 140 mm side fan fits with my noctua nh -d 14 installed...

now I am thinking how can I plug the side fan in my mobo before I put the side panel on ? it has a realy short cable


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> so the 140 mm side fan fits with my noctua nh -d 14 installed...
> 
> now I am thinking how can I plug the side fan in my mobo before I put the side panel on ? it has a realy short cable


Extension.


----------



## jeffblute

going to be having some fun here soon, just grabbed a Arc midi R2 and some new water cooling gear. Hoping to snatch up some new gpus soon as well!


----------



## Hawxie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Is it the R4 PCGH-EDITION?
> I would like to get one at spme Point because it should be even more silent


Damn that PCGH Edition looks baller, my only gripe with my R4 is the top vents only being semi covered with the Moduvents.
I'm tempted to grab one of those PCGH R4's.


----------



## Raghar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Is it the R4 PCGH-EDITION?
> I would like to get one at spme Point because it should be even more silent


Yes, it's that one. It's one of few cocoa spill resistant R4 cases. In addition you can have it on the table and place books on the top. And it has enough space inside for everything. Also, there is no manufacturer name anywhere on the case, which is great when you hate companies and other corporate stuff. It's quite hard to find a case which is great, and either has no logo, or it's on place where it's either hard to see, or is done very unobtrusively.

Its weaknesses are the same as other R4. I found 2 places where the metal could be strengthened, and front door doesn't have brushed aluminium, nor they can be remounted to open to the other side.


----------



## Malik

FD Arc Mini R2 in Malik hands


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> FD Arc Mini R2 in Malik hands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't be lazy and put that GPU under water as well!!!!

Also - sexy sexy as always


----------



## catbuster

Why malik's build is so epic every time







great job


----------



## dioxholster

Anyone using NZXT kraken x40 in an R4? i need to know if it will fit with no hassle.


----------



## gdubc

I have one in the front top spot as intake. That was about the best spot I could get it to work.
Here is a cell pic from build time.
Sorry..don't know why but sometimes the pics get flipped when I upload.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> FD Arc Mini R2 in Malik hands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Malik *__*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawxie*
> 
> Damn that PCGH Edition looks baller, my only gripe with my R4 is the top vents only being semi covered with the Moduvents.
> I'm tempted to grab one of those PCGH R4's.


Yea I´ve seen the first PCGH Edition back in the define R2 days, still want one.


----------



## [email protected]

I would like to think my build looks acceptable.....then Malik comes along and posts a new build.....












As always...looks incredible!


----------



## Fear Before

Mines not beastly like some of your guys rigs, but I tried to make it as clean as I could.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Mines not beastly like some of your guys rigs, but I tried to make it as clean as I could.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You succeeded sir! Looks good!


----------



## .theMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Mines not beastly like some of your guys rigs, but I tried to make it as clean as I could.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


this looks very nice! what case is this again?


----------



## Fear Before

Thanks for the props guys!

The case is a Core 1000.


----------



## void

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Mines not beastly like some of your guys rigs, but I tried to make it as clean as I could.


I'd be proud of that build


----------



## Purejoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> FD Arc Mini R2 in Malik hands


Where can I get that gorgerous plate on the front ?


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have one in the front top spot as intake. That was about the best spot I could get it to work.
> Here is a cell pic from build time.
> Sorry..don't know why but sometimes the pics get flipped when I upload.


Thanks, i was kind of hoping to utilize the back fan space, why was it hard to fit in the back or top?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Purejoke*
> 
> Where can I get that gorgerous plate on the front ?


Its a watercooling reservoir, made by EK this might be the closest thing I could find: http://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-bay-spin-reservoir-plexi-csq.html
Dont think this is the one he uses tho.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> Thanks, i was kind of hoping to utilize the back fan space, why was it hard to fit in the back or top?


I guess it was more that I didnt like the the way it looked (blocking view of mvf) and the flow of the tubes compared to front mount. I tried the bottom but the tubes were too short/rad too big to fit right. One way the tube would reach but the rad was too wide. The other way the rad fit but the tube was too short/conflicting with gpu.
Mounted in the front, it is attached to the fan assembly and can be tilted out enough to remove the filter for cleaning.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I guess it was more that I didnt like the the way it looked (blocking view of mvf) and the flow of the tubes compared to front mount. I tried the bottom but the tubes were too short/rad too big to fit right. One way the tube would reach but the rad was too wide. The other way the rad fit but the tube was too short/conflicting with gpu.
> Mounted in the front, it is attached to the fan assembly and can be tilted out enough to remove the filter for cleaning.


but it should be no problem if i attempt it? i just looked at this guide, it says its supported: http://www.nzxt.com/uploads/downloads/manuals/Kraken_Compatibility_Guide_09.4.2013.pdf


----------



## vangsfreaken

gah, now i can't decide between the r4 and the arc midi r2...


----------



## Anoxy

Any of you Arc Midi R2 lads have two cards in SLI under water? I'm strongly considering this for my 780s, but it would be nice to see some examples.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any of you Arc Midi R2 lads have two cards in SLI under water? I'm strongly considering this for my 780s, but it would be nice to see some examples.


Kind of







haha


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Kind of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha


Nice!!!


----------



## vangsfreaken

gah, i want a arc midi r2 in white...







just because that doesn't exist i may need to go for the r4...


----------



## Captain Lolburger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Any of you Arc Midi R2 lads have two cards in SLI under water? I'm strongly considering this for my 780s, but it would be nice to see some examples.


I've got an Arc Midi R1 under water with one GTX690, but I'm thinking about adding another one for quad SLI. There's a link to photos of my current setup in my sig.

If I were you I'd go a custom single loop rather than multiple closed loop coolers. Just my preference.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Nice!!!


Ty







the ugly sli bridge has been changed to a black, non flexible one since this photo!


----------



## pcoutu17

I just recently finished my build in an Arc Mini. So far, temps have beem much improved from my previous case, but I'm still wondering if I have airflow optimized.

As of right now, I have two front intake fans (rated at 90 cfm) and a bottom intake fan that is just the stock fractal fan. I also have a 120mm exhaust and a 140mm exhaust (both 90 cfm rated and rear/top respectively). I have a couple different scenarios that I'd like advice on.

1) Should I keep the bottom fan as a weak intake, or replace it with a stronger fan?

2) Should I add a side fan? If so, should it be weak or strong?

3) should I only use the side fan, but not the bottom fan?

I've got a HD 7990 and an i5 4670k with a dark knight night hawk addition in front-rear configuration as the main heat producing components.

For reference, consider "strong" as equal to the 90 cfm rated fans and "weak" closer to the stock fractal fans.

And yes, I know that 90 rated cfm doesn't mean 90 cfm in real world applications, but they are still significantly more powerful than the stock fans.


----------



## dervladimir

Small modification of R4

  


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



  
  
  
  



Waiting for Corsair RM850W and EK-FC680 GTX Lightning


----------



## catbuster

OMG DAT RAD XDDD


----------



## 17jotinha

New exchange, Asus HD7950 TOP V2.


----------



## Sencha

For those in the UK waiting on the mini R2 the wait is over!

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-arc-mini-r2-micro-atx-mini-itx-motherboard-compatibility


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*
> 
> New exchange, Asus HD7950 TOP V2.


Triple-slot DCII FTW


----------



## CluckyTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sencha*
> 
> For those in the UK waiting on the mini R2 the wait is over!
> 
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-arc-mini-r2-micro-atx-mini-itx-motherboard-compatibility


Awesome. Let us know who made the plunge. I am seriously waiting for them across the pond







. Hopefully by next week


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Lolburger*
> 
> I've got an Arc Midi R1 under water with one GTX690, but I'm thinking about adding another one for quad SLI. There's a link to photos of my current setup in my sig.
> 
> If I were you I'd go a custom single loop rather than multiple closed loop coolers. Just my preference.


I am so new to watercooling I don't even know the difference between those two haha.... but I'm assuming multiple closed loop coolers is what *oshu* posted above? And a custom single loop would be like one radiator that has hoses running to both GPUs and my CPU?


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Triple-slot DCII FTW


yes


----------



## void

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I am so new to watercooling I don't even know the difference between those two haha.... but I'm assuming multiple closed loop coolers is what *oshu* posted above? And a custom single loop would be like one radiator that has hoses running to both GPUs and my CPU?


You got 99% of that correct.

Closed loop coolers are just another name for the pre-made Cosair or whoevers units. Named so, I believe for the fact they are sealed all in one units.

Also you can have multiple radiators in a single custom loop. The single denotes that everything you want to water cool such as CPU, GPU, RAM, chipset/VRM share the same radiator(s), pump(s), reservoir so everything is contained within a 'single loop'.

Multi loop is just taking components and cooling them independently with it's own set of pump(s), reservoir, radiator(s). A popular choice is CPU and motherboard on one loop and video cards on another. Custom just means spec it and build it yourself from individual components.

Hopefully that was clear enough to understand the basics.


----------



## 95birdman

Finished my LED strip lights on my Arc Midi R2. Got them on fade through all colors right now. This is just an eBay strip light custom wired into a molex plug.


----------



## kilo 40

any ARC XL builds yet?

I just got mine yesterday and I'm looking for ideas.


----------



## CluckyTaco

Just bought one Arc Mini R2 in Rakuten..Can't wait to start my build


----------



## Anoxy

A 280mm radiator will fit in the front of the Arc Midi R2, correct?

Specifically, the one included in this kit.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> A 280mm radiator will fit in the front of the Arc Midi R2, correct?
> 
> Specifically, the one included in this kit.


240mm max according to their site.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> 240mm max according to their site.


Ah you're right, thanks. The guy's build log I was looking at had to modify the front to fit his 280.


----------



## andyv

I fit a 280 rad in the front of mine without modification. Only thing is that I could only fit 4 screws, not 8. No big deal. Seems pretty solid. The spacing between the two is 15mm my rad was 20mm if that helps.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> 240mm max according to their site.


Sorry to tell you this but that's not true at all
A 280mm WILL fit in the front WITHOUT any modding.

Same goes for the R4 unless you considering drilling 6 or 8 holes modding.

I would even say their website should state 240mm as the maximum for the top if anything. Fitting a 280mm in the front caused me no hassle whereas up top you're really limited in terms of thickness
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I fit a 280 rad in the front of mine without modification. Only thing is that I could only fit 4 screws, not 8. No big deal. Seems pretty solid. The spacing between the two is 15mm my rad was 20mm if that helps.


I thought R4s wouldn't "fit" a 280mm in the front without drilling hoels yourself.


----------



## andyv

Oh. I have both. I got the arc midi the other week. The r4 you do need to drill holes but it took about 5 min to do it.

If you didn't want to drill holes and support it through 4 points (one fan) you could probably do it that way.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Sorry to tell you this but that's not true at all
> A 280mm WILL fit in the front WITHOUT any modding.


well, that's the official support, and no matter how simple it is, drilling holes for a bigger rad is actually a modification







simple as ****, but there's still some people that won't do it...


----------



## [email protected]

I have to come out and say it....I moved my rig out of my R4 yesterday....I'm sorry everyone!


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I have to come out and say it....I moved my rig out of my R4 yesterday....I'm sorry everyone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can't see ****.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Can't see ****.


My wife and I keep our computers in the basement....bit dark down there.
Took a few new pics upstairs.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Sorry to tell you this but that's not true at all
> A 280mm WILL fit in the front WITHOUT any modding.


So absolutely no modding or drilling holes, a 280mm radiator will fit in the front of an Arc Midi R2? I have no desire to do anything extra or modify my case in any way, I just want it to fit out of the box.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I fit a 280 rad in the front of mine without modification. Only thing is that I could only fit 4 screws, not 8. No big deal. Seems pretty solid. The spacing between the two is 15mm my rad was 20mm if that helps.


Thanks, which 4 screws were you able to fit? Like only the bottom 4 in a square?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> well, that's the official support, and no matter how simple it is, drilling holes for a bigger rad is actually a modification
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> simple as ****, but there's still some people that won't do it...


I know. But there is no need for drilling holes with the Midi R2. Which is why I said there is no modding at all required









You'd obviously remove both HDD cages so I wouldn't say "fit oit of the box"


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I know. But there is no need for drilling holes with the Midi R2. Which is why I said there is no modding at all required
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'd obviously remove both HDD cages so I wouldn't say "fit oit of the box"


Cool, well removing the HDD cages is not a problem. I guess I could throw those in the media bay.

Looking at your rig, is the top rad in push/pull, or is it the front rad?


----------



## 95birdman

What's up with all the "artsy" pictures? Just give us pictures where we can see ****.


----------



## ledzepp3

Here's some builds I've done over the past year... I am definitely only going to use Fractal Cases as the only non-custom frame for customer builds.






Definitely looking forward to Fractal Making the R5 (maybe with improved water cooling options?), and pretty much any other magic they work.

-Zepp


----------



## Malik




----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Thanks, which 4 screws were you able to fit? Like only the bottom 4 in a square?


The top 4. I figured it would support it better.

Actually now I think about it. Clearance may have been an issue. I already removed the 5.25 bay. The 280 fit in my r4 with the 5,25 bay no issues though.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Cool, well removing the HDD cages is not a problem. I guess I could throw those in the media bay.
> 
> Looking at your rig, is the top rad in push/pull, or is it the front rad?


It's the front rad that has the four Akasa Apache fans. The top rad only has two yate Loons. And even with only two fans up there it's a bit of a mess (trouble fitting a rear fan,, ...).


----------



## MiwaPi

Arc mini r2 is available for order on newegg!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352034


----------



## SeahawkCustom

yes a 280 mm rad will fit no trouble ive got the case an 360 on top 60mm thick with modding.....


----------



## dioxholster

for the storage hard drive, is it best to use the DVD bay or try to have it at the back?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *95birdman*
> 
> What's up with all the "artsy" pictures? Just give us pictures where we can see ****.


Not trying to be artsy, just showing the details of the case


----------



## dioxholster

is a accessories drawer on a case good or bad? i found this when searching for HDD mounting bracket

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=22087


----------



## Phishy714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> is a accessories drawer on a case good or bad? i found this when searching for HDD mounting bracket
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=22087


I think you are the only one that can determine if its good or bad.. I think its a good idea if someone needs it drawer.


----------



## vangsfreaken

huh, i knew the r4 wouldn't beat my haf x in cooling, but i expected better than 50 idle and 85 under load for a 2600k @ 3.6 ghz with a c14... for ****s sake, the core 1000 does better than that







guess i have to check my cooler this weekend...
EDIT: i'll post some pics of the beauty this weekend too


----------



## nitroxyl

Are you sure you don't have a negative airflow setup that interferes with your CPU cooler?


----------



## jeffblute

The R4 is suppose to be a "silent case" it has less airflow then say the Haf X. You should of expected that one


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Are you sure you don't have a negative airflow setup that interferes with your CPU cooler?


yes, the setup should be fine... i think i kinda screwed up the mounting of the c14 or something...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> The R4 is suppose to be a "silent case" it has less airflow then say the Haf X. You should of expected that one


i know, but almost double the temps?







this case has airflow too, which my old haf x wasn't set up for... there wasn't a single active casefan in that monster







at the current moment my silverstone sg05 with a ivy bridge-chip cools better than this


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> is a accessories drawer on a case good or bad? i found this when searching for HDD mounting bracket
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=22087


19;- for a gadget to hold usb sticks and the like??? 

far better off with an empty B&J container in your regular deskdrawer, at least you get to eat the icecream first









But utlimately, its up to you


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 19;- for a gadget to hold usb sticks and the like???
> 
> far better off with an empty B&J container in your regular deskdrawer, at least you get to eat the icecream first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But utlimately, its up to you


you are right but its a good place to hide stuff though.


----------



## michael-ocn

Hmmm... maybe if that $19 gizmo came filled with Chunky Monkey








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> 19;- for a gadget to hold usb sticks and the like???
> 
> far better off with an empty B&J container in your regular deskdrawer, at least you get to eat the icecream first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But utlimately, its up to you


----------



## sholvaco

I have a question on the Define R4: is the front flip down fan cover easy to remove?

The thin slits it uses look really restrictive to me.

Anybody running without the cover? Noticed any improvements in temps?

Thanks.


----------



## j1804

Made my first PC build ever using the Fractal Arc Mini R2.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j1804*
> 
> Made my first PC build ever using the Fractal Arc Mini R2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good to me


----------



## CluckyTaco

This is my build on a Arc Mini R2, still a work in progress...


----------



## taem

So I'm in the process of picking up components to put inside my R4, and I had a question.

Can I connect the power led connector to the hdd activity plug on the motherboard? I vaguely recall someone saying they did this but I can't find the post.

What is the result if I did this? Ideally the led would stay on solid with no hdd activity, and blink for activity. If it went dim with no hdd activity I don't know if I want that.

Anyway, nice case. I have some quibbles with it but I don't regret the pick. Very impressed with Fractal Design. I want to do a Node 304 rig right after this one even though I don't even need it.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> So I'm in the process of picking up components to put inside my R4, and I had a question.
> 
> Can I connect the power led connector to the hdd activity plug on the motherboard? I vaguely recall someone saying they did this but I can't find the post.
> 
> What is the result if I did this? Ideally the led would stay on solid with no hdd activity, and blink for activity. If it went dim with no hdd activity I don't know if I want that.


I have mine that way. The light is low/off without activity and gets brighter with activity.


----------



## Malik

air*ROG*

Intel i5 4670k
Asus Maximus VI Gene
Asus R9 280X DCU II
Asus Xonar Phoebus
Corsair Vengeance PRO RED 16B 1866Mhz
OCZ Vertex 4 128GB, Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB, Segate 2TB
Corsair AX 760i
Fractal Design Arc Mini R2


----------



## Abula

Really nice build Malik.

Btw from what i remember you had also a MK-26, would it have fitted with prolimatech vortex 140 fans without the Phoebus?


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Really nice build Malik.
> 
> Btw from what i remember you had also a MK-26, would it have fitted with prolimatech vortex 140 fans without the Phoebus?


Yes, he will fit when phoebus is out.


----------



## stnz

Nicely done Malik


----------



## Lukas026

nice job Malik

finally I got some time to spare and took a photo with my dads Sony A77. Not a great cable managment but what can I do with ton of fans


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> nice job Malik
> 
> finally I got some time to spare and took a photo with my dads Sony A77. Not a great cable managment but what can I do with ton of fans


Nicely done with Noctua.
Did the same on mine, except the top is set to intake


----------



## XSHollywood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> is a accessories drawer on a case good or bad? i found this when searching for HDD mounting bracket
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=22087


Drugs.


----------



## trojan92

Hey guys, I have an R4 with a H80i but I'm wondering if the H110 fits in the top of the case? I have a couple of HDD's installed so I can't install it in the front


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trojan92*
> 
> Hey guys, I have an R4 with a H80i but I'm wondering if the H110 fits in the top of the case? I have a couple of HDD's installed so I can't install it in the front


How many HDD installed? You can move the HDD cage over?
SSD mounting can be anywhere.

H110 is not standard mounting of 15mm, it is 20mm. Reason to support there own cases. The NZXT version X60 is correct mounting.


----------



## trojan92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> How many HDD installed? You can move the HDD cage over?
> SSD mounting can be anywhere.
> 
> H110 is not standard mounting of 15mm, it is 20mm. Reason to support there own cases. The NZXT version X60 is correct mounting.


4 HDD's, no SSD lol.
So the H110 won't fit in the top but the X60 will?
I'm trying to find some comparisons of the two.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trojan92*
> 
> 4 HDD's, no SSD lol.
> So the H110 won't fit in the top but the X60 will?
> I'm trying to find some comparisons of the two.


They are both the exact same made by Asetek. Except for the fans and NZXT has LED logo on pump.

But it might not fit the R4, you need to measure the area and make sure you have clearance.


----------



## rebelextrm02

I decided to add my 660TI to the loop along with another radiator in my original Arc Mini. I drilled out the rivets and screwed the lower drive bay back just far enough to fit the second 240mm rad. I think it turned out quite well!. I'll be adding either Mayhems blue dye or blue berry pastel soon.


----------



## stanimir330

Here's my Fractal Design core3000


----------



## taem

For Define R4, with psu fan pointed down and bottom mounted fan, how important do you think it is to elevate the case?

Looks like the stock case feet are about 14-15mm. That's not bad IMHO, lots of cases have 10mm feet. Wondering if its worth investing $22 for lian li spacers for $40 for 1" MNPCTech feet. I don't like the stuff I could pick up cheap as a spacer at the hardware store because of the way the stock case feet are designed - if you pop it off its plastic spokes inside, it's not a flat base, so is have to use a flat metal washer as a base and then something else for height, and it'd be real ghetto.


----------



## gdubc

I run mine stock and have had no problems, but I have an 860i and the fan hardly runs ever. I saw someone put castors on theirs, so that's an idea.


----------



## cyphon

Hey guys, I'm finishing up a water cooled arc midi r2 and I was running the fans and noticed how restrictive the dust filters were. I am considering removing the filters but don't think the plastics grid would look good through the steel mesh. I think the top one is attached to the whole sliding top part in there and the front has the clicky attachment part on it so the plastic. A not be removed completely. Has anyone tried cutting out the plastic grids? Are there any other mods to look at trying?


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm finishing up a water cooled arc midi r2 and I was running the fans and noticed how restrictive the dust filters were. I am considering removing the filters but don't think the plastics grid would look good through the steel mesh. I think the top one is attached to the whole sliding top part in there and the front has the clicky attachment part on it so the plastic. A not be removed completely. Has anyone tried cutting out the plastic grids? Are there any other mods to look at trying?


I have seen people remove the plastic grids, however I don't have any pictures of it offhand. I do want to point out, though, that you might compare your load temps with the filters installed vs removed. I know on my loop the difference was literally 1-2* average durring gameplay for both the gpu and cpu. Depending on your average temps, and the difference, it may not be worth cutting your case up.

Also, dust affects temps, obviously lol, and it's a lot easier to clean out a filter than rad (especially the ones with higher fpi).


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> I have seen people remove the plastic grids, however I don't have any pictures of it offhand. I do want to point out, though, that you might compare your load temps with the filters installed vs removed. I know on my loop the difference was literally 1-2* average durring gameplay for both the gpu and cpu. Depending on your average temps, and the difference, it may not be worth cutting your case up.


I don't have it all the way up and running quite yet, but I was planning on running the comparisons once I did. I did an admittedly inaccurate measurement by feel but the case temps were considerably hotter to the feel with the filters in. So While I was finishing it up I figured to ask if anyone had done the mod. I've already modded the case quite a bit so I am not worried about a little more hack and slash on it


----------



## rebelextrm02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I don't have it all the way up and running quite yet, but I was planning on running the comparisons once I did. I did an admittedly inaccurate measurement by feel but the case temps were considerably hotter to the feel with the filters in. So While I was finishing it up I figured to ask if anyone had done the mod. I've already modded the case quite a bit so I am not worried about a little more hack and slash on it


Here is a link to a user that removed the front filter and plastic grid:

Post #3651 - Fractal Design Case Club


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebelextrm02*
> 
> Here is a link to a user that removed the front filter and plastic grid:
> 
> Post #3651 - Fractal Design Case Club


I think that also looks better...may break out the dremel and cutting wheel


----------



## ichiwot

hi guys new here greetings from philippines







just posting my simple rig it is not yet finished i really like my arc mini best matx IMHO







any suggestion to improve my rig would help thnx overclock.net


----------



## KevGann

If I remove the plastic grid from the front filter on the arc mini t2, would the metal mesh become fragile, like in an unrenforced way? I was just wondering before I did it.

BTW, nice case and parts ichiwot.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> If I remove the plastic grid from the front filter on the arc mini t2, would the metal mesh become fragile, like in an unrenforced way? I was just wondering before I did it.
> 
> BTW, nice case and parts ichiwot.


Nope. I've done the mod so many times. Nothing bad will happen to anything else by doing it. It sure does look a lot nicer though, especially without the filter in.


----------



## ZeVo

Double post bug..


----------



## cyphon

Went ahead and removed the filters and cut out the plastic grid. I'll post pics tomorrow


----------



## athlon 64

I like the ARC mini r2 so much i'm thinking about replacing my R4 with it.
Does anyone have a picture of it beside te r4 ?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> I like the ARC mini r2 so much i'm thinking about replacing my R4 with it.
> Does anyone have a picture of it beside te r4 ?


Check my post


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Check my post


That's an ARC midi. I wante'd to se a MINI. Because of the size comparison







. But thank you.


----------



## michael-ocn

Here's a mini next to a midi, midi is the same size as the r4.


----------



## JMatzelle303

What color power led and hdd acitivty led does the arc midi R2 and Arc mini R2 have also are they hard to change?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> What color power led and hdd acitivty led does the arc midi R2 and Arc mini R2 have also are they hard to change?


power is bleu, hdd is red.

They're probably easy to change if you know basic sodlering and have a decent iron.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> What color power led and hdd acitivty led does the arc midi R2 and Arc mini R2 have also are they hard to change?


Most likely Blue for Power and Red for HDD like the original. They are really easy to change.


----------



## Mopar63

I need some info on the Define Mini, can someone give the the height and width of the door front?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Most likely Blue for Power and Red for HDD like the original. They are really easy to change.


Now i wanna do this too :/

As mentioned before, I removed the dust filters and the plastic grids. Was a simple dremel cut and sand job, I think it turned out well







(pics below as promised)


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

If you can't be bothered to solder a new LED then get one of these: Phobya LEDready 3mm To 2Pin.

Swap the 2 pin for 2 x 1 pins if you need to.

I changed my R4 LED from Blue to Red using this and it works perfectly.

Nice build Cyphon


----------



## JMatzelle303

I might get the Define R4 White since it already has red led. which would make life easier also get the maximus vi formaula make a sick rig


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> If you can't be bothered to solder a new LED then get one of these: Phobya LEDready 3mm To 2Pin.
> 
> Swap the 2 pin for 2 x 1 pins if you need to.
> 
> I changed my R4 LED from Blue to Red using this and it works perfectly.
> 
> Nice build Cyphon


Thanks!

I don't mind doing some soldering, but how are you guys getting into the control panel section?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I don't mind doing some soldering, but how are you guys getting into the control panel section?


You pop the front panel off and everything is attached to it (unlike the Midi)

The LED might be glued in (had 2 R4's and 1 wasn't) so just remove that and replace.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> You pop the front panel off and everything is attached to it (unlike the Midi)
> 
> The LED might be glued in (had 2 R4's and 1 wasn't) so just remove that and replace.


I have the midi tho........looks like it is a pain to get at lol


----------



## Razor 116

I have a 240 rad in the front with corsair sp120's pushing air out the front (Arc Midi R2), Would it be better if I removed the foam/filter in the front grill?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razor 116*
> 
> I have a 240 rad in the front with corsair sp120's pushing air out the front (Arc Midi R2), Would it be better if I removed the foam/filter in the front grill?


First, with rads, you pretty much always want intake on them. Cooler air is always outside your case and you can only get as cold as the air pushing through the rads. So using air from inside the case, you are limiting your cooling capabilities several degrees at least.

Second, what type of temps are you getting and what all is in your loop? I removed mine because (a) it looks better to me in some ways and (b) the temps were a lot hotter than I wanted them. I like to run my fans at 5-7v to keep em quiet. The temps running 5-7v without the filters have been better than 12v with the filters...and this is idle. I can get very close to ambient temps now at idle even on 5v fans


----------



## Anoxy

edit: nevermind


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Hey guys, anyone know if a 240mm x 80mm rad will fit in the top of my Arc Midi R2 in push/pull?


TinyTomLogan said that the biggest rad you could fit up there in push pull using regular fans was 55mm and that if he had tried with a 60mm one he wouldn't have been able to put fittings on the CPU block.

Why would you want to do that anyway ^^ ? I'm just curious because I'd think it'd look ugly because it would cover up most of the MB.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> TinyTomLogan said that the biggest rad you could fit up there in push pull using regular fans was 55mm and that if he had tried with a 60mm one he wouldn't have been able to put fittings on the CPU block.
> 
> Why would you want to do that anyway ^^ ? I'm just curious because I'd think it'd look ugly because it would cover up most of the MB.


Yeah, that's why I edited and said nevermind. I'll just stick a 80mm in the front and either a 60 in push, or 45 in push/pull up top. I just want to get the best performance I can out of cooling 2x780s and a 3570k, both overclocked.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, that's why I edited and said nevermind. I'll just stick a 80mm in the front and either a 60 in push, or 45 in push/pull up top. I just want to get the best performance I can out of cooling 2x780s and a 3570k, both overclocked.


If you look in my build log I have a 45mm in pull config. I wouldn't do more than that in the top.you can put 80mm push pull in the front if you take out the hdd bays. If you use ssd, there are mounts on the back of the mobo tray. I ended up just putting mine in the bottom under the front rad tho


----------



## dyscreet

Hey guys! Looking at buying a Fractal Design case. Newegg has a good deal on the Midi R2 for about $83 with free shipping. I do like the Mini R2 a lot though, do yall think that they will be offering a coupon code and free shipping for the Mini R2 this month like they are with the Midi R2 right now?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyscreet*
> 
> Hey guys! Looking at buying a Fractal Design case. Newegg has a good deal on the Midi R2 for about $83 with free shipping. I do like the Mini R2 a lot though, do yall think that they will be offering a coupon code and free shipping for the Mini R2 this month like they are with the Midi R2 right now?


No clue lol

I can say the midi is a great case tho







. I got mine for $75 a couple months ago from microcenter I think


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you look in my build log I have a 45mm in pull config. I wouldn't do more than that in the top.you can put 80mm push pull in the front if you take out the hdd bays. If you use ssd, there are mounts on the back of the mobo tray. I ended up just putting mine in the bottom under the front rad tho


Yeah I've got both of my SSDs installed behind the mobo tray already, and I'll probably just put my two HDDs in the ODD bay.

But I was looking at failwheeldrive's Arc Midi build, and he's got a 60mm rad up top in pull....looks fine to me:


----------



## dyscreet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No clue lol
> 
> I can say the midi is a great case tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I got mine for $75 a couple months ago from microcenter I think


Nice! It does look like a good case, there's a MicroCenter near where I live, might have to pay em a visit tomorrow. I'm thinking the chances of Newegg offering a deal on the Mini R2 is pretty slim though since it came out recently.

I need to get rid of my Antec 1200. Thing is stupid huge. Can't believe I use to like cases like this lol. I'll have to turn it into a backstop for the shooting range.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah I've got both of my SSDs installed behind the mobo tray already, and I'll probably just put my two HDDs in the ODD bay.
> 
> But I was looking at failwheeldrive's Arc Midi build, and he's got a 60mm rad up top in pull....looks fine to me:


I like to show off my blocks tho







. I have a ram block and a 60mm wouldn't have fit with that in there.

Also that wouldn't be pull config unless he is exhausting which is not the best to do with rads... especially around the mb. It doesn't look like the fans are under the rad
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyscreet*
> 
> Nice! It does look like a good case, there's a MicroCenter near where I live, might have to pay em a visit tomorrow. I'm thinking the chances of Newegg offering a deal on the Mini R2 is pretty slim though since it came out recently.


Never know with the cyber Monday







honestly, I'd wait to order anything from Newegg until then at this point lol


----------



## dyscreet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Never know with the cyber Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> honestly, I'd wait to order anything from Newegg until then at this point lol


Yeah I was kinda thinkin the same, but I want it all now! lol


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyscreet*
> 
> Yeah I was kinda thinkin the same, but I want it all now! lol


I knOw the feeling...... cannot resist. ......


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I like to show off my blocks tho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have a ram block and a 60mm wouldn't have fit with that in there.
> 
> Also that wouldn't be pull config unless he is exhausting which is not the best to do with rads... especially around the mb. It doesn't look like the fans are under the rad


Yeah, that's why I said I'll probably do a push config. up top, which is how failwheeldrive did his I believe.

I don't plan on using a ram block, and I'm using super low profile crucial ballistix sticks so I doubt clearance will be an issue.


----------



## Lukas026

hey there

I bought my Define XL R2 about a month ago (posted a picture here) and now I am wondering - is there any place I can buy a side panel window for it ?

I love the sound dampening material but I would love more if I can see inside of my case through some big window window like on Corsair 750D / 800D / 900D.

I cant find it anywhere.

Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> hey there
> 
> I bought my Define XL R2 about a month ago (posted a picture here) and now I am wondering - is there any place I can buy a side panel window for it ?
> 
> I love the sound dampening material but I would love more if I can see inside of my case through some big window window like on Corsair 750D / 800D / 900D.
> 
> I cant find it anywhere.
> 
> Thanks


I don't know of one (doesn't mean there isn't one as someone else may know of something)....you could always mod your own in there. It is really not too hard of a mod to do. mnpctech has kits instructionals and kits even if you are interested


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> I like the ARC mini r2 so much i'm thinking about replacing my R4 with it.
> Does anyone have a picture of it beside te r4 ?


Hope this helps. Threw in my 350d also just for the heck of it


----------



## athlon 64

Man, i can't thank you enough


----------



## dyscreet

Nice, Fractal cases look really good.


----------



## Razor 116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> First, with rads, you pretty much always want intake on them. Cooler air is always outside your case and you can only get as cold as the air pushing through the rads. So using air from inside the case, you are limiting your cooling capabilities several degrees at least.
> 
> Second, what type of temps are you getting and what all is in your loop? I removed mine because (a) it looks better to me in some ways and (b) the temps were a lot hotter than I wanted them. I like to run my fans at 5-7v to keep em quiet. The temps running 5-7v without the filters have been better than 12v with the filters...and this is idle. I can get very close to ambient temps now at idle even on 5v fans


Cheers for the info, I knew that intake would be better but I wanted positive pressure in my case and cooling via intake would require me to keep the filter(More like foam really) in therefore reducing cooling potential possibly making it worse than exhausting. I have no idea of the temps as my PSU died nearly 2 weeks ago so I've been using a backup PSU to leak test/bleed for four days. My spare PSU cannot run my computer so I have to wait until Wednesday for my replacement PSU. I am cooling a GTX 780 only on a 240 XT45 with Corsair SP120's, Pump is DDC + EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ.


----------



## Mopar63

Post a question a few days ago and have seen no reply. Can someone with a Define Mini please give me the dimensions of the door on the front of the case. Looking to do a mod and this looks like the perfect case choice but I am needing information.


----------



## Lukas026

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> Post a question a few days ago and have seen no reply. Can someone with a Define Mini please give me the dimensions of the door on the front of the case. Looking to do a mod and this looks like the perfect case choice but I am needing information.


sorry dont have that case so cant help









anyway thanks for replies to my XL R2 window problem

I managed to do some cable management and I thing I will live with that result for a moment, what do you think ? What should I improve ?


----------



## openwdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> air*ROG*
> 
> Intel i5 4670k
> Asus Maximus VI Gene
> Asus R9 280X DCU II
> Asus Xonar Phoebus
> Corsair Vengeance PRO RED 16B 1866Mhz
> OCZ Vertex 4 128GB, Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB, Segate 2TB
> Corsair AX 760i
> Fractal Design Arc Mini R2


Nice casing, would like to know what kind of cables are those red and black seems nice. I have no idea where to get such cables.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I think they're extensions. Many sites online sell them. ModDiy have a large range.

Or you could sleeve your own.


----------



## Razor 116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *openwdb*
> 
> Nice casing, would like to know what kind of cables are those red and black seems nice. I have no idea where to get such cables.


Here's how to use spoiler tags, {SPOILER} {/SPOILER}. Replace Brackets with normal brackets.


----------



## hero1

Nice systems you have here. I like the Fractal cases and I currently am modding my Fractal Design Define XL R2, it's done and waiting a powder coating job!


----------



## TSXmike

picked up another arc mini for another project.

wonder how this one will turn out.


----------



## Razor 116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hero1*
> 
> Nice systems you have here. I like the Fractal cases and I currently am modding my Fractal Design Define XL R2, it's done and waiting a powder coating job!


I was going to get a Corsair 300R originally but didn't want to cut/mod the case just to fit one 240rad (and likely a 360 or another 240 in future). Regardless I didn't know about Fractal Design until I searched on OCN for watercooling compatible cases around the same price of the 300R. Thank god I did, Couldn't be happier with the case, Minimalist exterior with so many options for cooling.


----------



## Clawbog

I barely had my Arc Midi R2 for a week and this morning I noticed the tint on the window panel has started peeling! After only a week of just sitting there. I'm not sure what to do, and I really don't want to tear apart my computer and send the case back...


----------



## taem

]Sorry to ask what everyone asks, but could I get some advice on fan setup for a Define R4?

Asus Z87 Pro, i4670k, NH D14, crossfired Asus R9 280x DC2T.

I cannot remove the hdd cages, I will be using a bunch of them.

The fans I have are:

2 x Fractal Design R2 Silent Series 140mm 3-pin
1000rpm, 66cfm, 0.8mmh20

4 x NZXT FX 140LB pwm
2000rpm, 116cfm, 2.8mmh20

2 x Thermalright TY 147 pwm
1300rpm, 74cfm, pressure unlisted

2 x Thermalright TY 143 pwm
2500rpm, 130cfm, pressure unlisted

I have 2 Gelid 4-in-1 smart pwm splitters.

I can order more fans. I'm tempted to order a bunch of Helix 140mms because specs are good and they are 3 pin, and the Asus board voltage regulates chassis headers. The board has 2 pwm cpu headers (CPU OPT mirrors CPU header), and 4 chassis headers with max draw 1 amp each.

I could jiust max it out:


Or go a bit less:


Or maybe something funky? I seem to recall ehume talking about a top intake to feed air directly into a D14:


I do want to use a side fan. http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Side-Panel-Fans-Are-They-Worth-It-102/

I'd welcome any advice, including whether to leave one or both of the top noise blocking panels on or off, whether to use the Thermalright fans in place of the R2 and 140LBs.

Sorry this is so long.


----------



## dyscreet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *openwdb*
> 
> Nice casing, would like to know what kind of cables are those red and black seems nice. I have no idea where to get such cables.


lol, did ya really have to quote that entire post for two sentences?


----------



## cyphon

My Arc Midi R2 build is done! I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar


----------



## ZeVo

Epic build. That tubing..


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clawbog*
> 
> I barely had my Arc Midi R2 for a week and this morning I noticed the tint on the window panel has started peeling! After only a week of just sitting there. I'm not sure what to do, and I really don't want to tear apart my computer and send the case back...


That's weird. I remember someone here trying to peel it off to no avail. Said it was maybe tinted plexi not a film. Steelkevin it was I think. Anyhow you should hit up fractal and I am sure they will set you up.


----------



## Jflisk

I would like to join the club. trying to figure out where to place another rad in this thing. Also does anyone know the paint color for the black cases. I have been threw about 2 blacks so far trying to find a match.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1427024/build-log-what-the-frac-tical-design-black-pearl-r1/10#post_21013746

Thanks


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I would like to join the club. trying to figure out where to place another rad in this thing. Also does anyone know the paint color for the black cases. I have been threw about 2 blacks so far trying to find a match.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1427024/build-log-what-the-frac-tical-design-black-pearl-r1/10#post_21013746
> 
> Thanks


Give them an email, they're really good at giving information about their cases.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clawbog*
> 
> I barely had my Arc Midi R2 for a week and this morning I noticed the tint on the window panel has started peeling! After only a week of just sitting there. I'm not sure what to do, and I really don't want to tear apart my computer and send the case back...


Please please take a picture of what's going on







!

If there's a way to remove the tint I need to know how


----------



## Clawbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Please please take a picture of what's going on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> If there's a way to remove the tint I need to know how


Here are a couple pictures:

http://i.imgur.com/Q3oJElL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/g7rv1VJ.jpg


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clawbog*
> 
> Here are a couple pictures:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Q3oJElL.jpg
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/g7rv1VJ.jpg


That looks to me like left overs from the plastic covering that comes on the window, not the tint. At least, that is what the photo makes it seem like. I would remove the window and see if it just comes out or just pull it out.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

That is not the tint. The plastic is tinted throughout, it is not like a plastic covered tint.
Looks like plastic cover stuck inside, that was on the panel to protect it.


----------



## Anoxy

Bingo. Had some of that left over on mine when I got it as well. Just pull it out with tweezers or something


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> That looks to me like left overs from the plastic covering that comes on the window, not the tint. At least, that is what the photo makes it seem like. I would remove the window and see if it just comes out or just pull it out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is not the tint. The plastic is tinted throughout, it is not like a plastic covered tint.
> Looks like plastic cover stuck inside, that was on the panel to protect it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Bingo. Had some of that left over on mine when I got it as well. Just pull it out with tweezers or something


Agree with all of ya that it is left over from the plastic cover they put on to protect from scratches in shipping. I also had some stuck in there that I had to dig out with tweezers


----------



## Clawbog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Agree with all of ya that it is left over from the plastic cover they put on to protect from scratches in shipping. I also had some stuck in there that I had to dig out with tweezers


Ops that's dumb of me... Thanks!


----------



## Darth Scabrous

OK, so I'm trading my desktop, but my ssd is staying with me. The problem is: Its behind the mobo. Is there anyway to remove it without removing the mobo? Could I just rip it out? Like, strip it? I won't need to use the screw holes again, its going into a laptop.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

you have to remove the mobo first.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Dangit. Knew I shouldn't have used that. Now I have to remove the mobo, rad, cards and everything just for it.


----------



## 17jotinha




----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> Dangit. Knew I shouldn't have used that. Now I have to remove the mobo, rad, cards and everything just for it.


Velcro ftw!!


----------



## DRlZZLE

Moved to Arc Mini R2











360mm Alphacool XT45 push top, 240mm Alphacool XT45 push/pull front


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

You could use a dremel to cut the screws but you'd have to be super careful not to damage anything.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*


Love this full panel window







want to make 1 for myself







any instructions would be great


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Love this full panel window
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> want to make 1 for myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> any instructions would be great


Thank you,
Want to buy?


----------



## CptChiggs

Just rebuilt my machine in a brand new Define R4. I had been eyeing this slick case for a awhile and I bit the bullet when it went of sale for $79.99 with shipping.



It's actually quiet enough to put on my desk!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Build complete! Now I just need to save for a decent CPU cooler and I will be reveling in the silence.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







My only problem with the case is the fact that the side padding was a lot thinner than I expected. I think it must have something to do with the side window version.

Coming from a Haf X to this was night and day. That HAF X was like a leaf blower with all the fans and little noise dampening. Now I just need to think of what to do with that massive piece of metal. I've actually been thinking of scrapping the metal to make a custom vertical HDD mount for this R4.


----------



## Slayerik

very nice...
I'm thinking about something similar, but with magnetic mounting and painted/frosted to not see edges


----------



## 17jotinha




----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*
> 
> Thank you,
> Want to buy?


dark plexi for r4 pls







what was the cost for u to make one?


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> dark plexi for r4 pls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what was the cost for u to make one?


work from home








12€


----------



## catbuster

Shiping would cost more XD need to do this myself







atleast now i know what i want


----------



## CptChiggs

Does anyone actually have a normal *non* windowed side panel they would be willing to sell? I don't have the money now, but I would like to know if they exist.

Thanks.


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> Shiping would cost more XD need to do this myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> atleast now i know what i want


7€ + shiping


----------



## Anoxy

Ok I'm about to drop $1000 on parts for my first water cooling loop and I would really appreciate a little Arc Midi R2 team brainstorming here....

I like this XSPC Photon 170 reservoir/pump combo, but I don't know where I would mount it in my case.....any ideas?


----------



## Jflisk

Anoxy
Check this build out might give you ideas.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar-wc-fractal-arc-midi-r2


----------



## Anoxy

Thanks, that would be helpful, but it looks like he's using a dual bay reservoir, which is not something I want to do. I need the ODD bay for my two HDDs.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

you can try to mount it beside the HDD cage if it not moved or place it on top on the HDD cage, just be sure to remove the plastic sliders.
You will need to measure to see how it will fit.

If you completely remove the HDD cage, you will not have issue finding a spot.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptChiggs*
> 
> Does anyone actually have a normal *non* windowed side panel they would be willing to sell? I don't have the money now, but I would like to know if they exist.
> 
> Thanks.


I've got one. What country?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> you can try to mount it beside the HDD cage if it not moved or place it on top on the HDD cage, just be sure to remove the plastic sliders.
> You will need to measure to see how it will fit.
> 
> If you completely remove the HDD cage, you will not have issue finding a spot.


I'm planning on completely removing the HDD cage because I'll have an 80mm thick rad up front. But if you look at how it is supposed to be mounted, I'm not there's anywhere in the Arc Midi R2 that will allow this?

This is the larger 270 version, I'll be getting the smaller 170 for my build:


edit: oooooh I wonder if I could get this Bitspower D5 mod kit, and then just mount it to the bottom of my case?


----------



## CptChiggs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I've got one. What country?


United States.

Don't know why I didn't have it on my profile.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

you should be able to mount the res in front the front rad. That would be fine.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks, that would be helpful, but it looks like he's using a dual bay reservoir, which is not something I want to do. I need the ODD bay for my two HDDs.


Do the offset lower cage and then get one of the motor mounting brackets to put on the front rad. If you go slim there might be just enough room. If you don't need the cages then you have plenty of room to do this with most any rad. 80mm maybe not buy otherwise you're good

Alternatively, go ssd and/or put an hdd in a 5.25" slot. With a smaller case like the midi you are usually left with compromises. This particular case compromises are usually no drive bays or no 5.25" bays


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Do the offset lower cage and then get one of the motor mounting brackets to put on the front rad. If you go slim there might be just enough room.
> 
> Alternatively, go ssd and/or put an hdd in a 5.25" slot. With a smaller case like the midi you are usually left with compromises. This particular case compromises are usually no drive bays or no 5.25" bays


Well I've got two 120GB SSDs, but I'd like to have at least one of my HDDs for storage. I'm planning to remove the lower HDD cage completely to make room for an 80mm thick radiator up front, and possibly a tube reservoir/pump combo.

But if a bay reservoir is a better choice, I guess I can try to get rid of my HDDs....that just wouldn't be very ideal.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Well I've got two 120GB SSDs, but I'd like to have at least one of my HDDs for storage. I'm planning to remove the lower HDD cage completely to make room for an 80mm thick radiator up front, and possibly a tube reservoir/pump combo.
> 
> But if a bay reservoir is a better choice, I guess I can try to get rid of my HDDs....that just wouldn't be very ideal.


Ill try to measure if it will fit with an 80mm rad when I get home. You will likely need push pull with an 80mm rad tho so you are likely going to run out of space


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Ill try to measure if it will fit with an 80mm rad when I get home. *You will likely need push pull with an 80mm rad tho* so you are likely going to run out of space


Yeah, that's what I'm planning to do, push/pull on the 80mm. So finding a res to fit is my last concern before I order everything.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Have you done a mock up build in the case yet? It is a good way to figure out how everything will fit.
You can use cardboard paper and make the sizes you need.


----------



## manwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I'm planning to do, push/pull on the 80mm. So finding a res to fit is my last concern before I order everything.


I have no experience with liquid cooling.. but your problem with finding a place for the res made me think of this guy's build:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I know it's not the same res so this may not help at all.. His case is also a little smaller than yours but the concept is the same. Just food for thought.

This is not my pc, credit goes to kubed_zero on page 307 of this thread.


----------



## Anoxy

Thanks, that XSPC Tank Reservoir actually looks promising, and the price is definitely right. 50 for the res + 90 for the MCP-655 PWM is not bad.


----------



## manwich

Yea I wouldn't have thought you could fit a res w/ pump that way in a fractal case but apparently you can. I might do the same whenever I decide to WC with my R4


----------



## sendjes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> air*ROG*
> 
> Intel i5 4670k
> Asus Maximus VI Gene
> Asus R9 280X DCU II
> Asus Xonar Phoebus
> Corsair Vengeance PRO RED 16B 1866Mhz
> OCZ Vertex 4 128GB, Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB, Segate 2TB
> Corsair AX 760i
> Fractal Design Arc Mini R2


What CPU cooler is that? And really nice build.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sendjes*
> 
> What CPU cooler is that? And really nice build.


Looks like a Prolimatech Megahalems Black to me.


----------



## sendjes

Thanks man, I searched for what you mentioned, and you're right, thanks again.


----------



## Foolsmasher

Anyone here tried watercooling in a Node 605? I'm getting an urge to try to build a badass watercooled gaming HTPC


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks, that XSPC Tank Reservoir actually looks promising, and the price is definitely right. 50 for the res + 90 for the MCP-655 PWM is not bad.


If you are getting the pwm version mke site you have pwm controller as you can't voltage control them


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If you are getting the pwm version mke site you have pwm controller as you can't voltage control them


Right, don't I just plug the 4-pin into my CPU fan header on my motherboard?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Right, don't I just plug the 4-pin into my CPU fan header on my motherboard?


If it is just the pwm signal (and tack) you can probably run off mobo, but don't power it off the mobo. I don't know how they split out the cables off the top of my head.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> If it is just the pwm signal (and tack) you can probably run off mobo, but don't power it off the mobo. I don't know how they split out the cables off the top of my head.


It's just a molex and a 4-pin. I don't think it should be a problem.


----------



## dervladimir

more photos:
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/52260_20#post_21156171


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Just threw this together recently with my left over parts (of course, that led to buying some other new ones). Just in case someone wants more inspiration... no log - too quick for that.




R4 obviously...


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRlZZLE*
> 
> Moved to Arc Mini R2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 360mm Alphacool XT45 push top, 240mm Alphacool XT45 push/pull front


If you only go push in the front, do you still have to move over the HDD cage on the Mini R2?


----------



## kim jong so ill

My basic Arc Mini R2







. Transplanted from a 350D. Everything fit fairly well in this case except the H80i, which I had to mount in the front.

.


----------



## HoZy

Sneak peak of this weekends build


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoZy*
> 
> Sneak peak of this weekends build


Great a Newton R3

Those are far too underrated so great choice


----------



## vangsfreaken

so... i bought a r4 a few weeks ago







went from this:

to this:

turned out okey, although there's alot of cables to manage...










and the fan controller from my last build matches! (thank god, 8 fans at 12 volt would be awful...)

i've also replaced the original drivemounts with white ones from my old r3, just because they blend in better







the rest of the cables will be managed properly once i can afford new cables for my psu.
EDIT: the cooling in this case wasn't planned at all, i just found random fans in random places all around my room...


----------



## shilka

Your CPU fan is mounted the wrong way

Or did you do that on purpose?


----------



## Anoxy

I asked this here once before, but I forgot the answer (sorry!)

What's the best type of spray paint if I want to paint my expansion slot covers black?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiGiCiDAL*
> 
> Just threw this together recently with my left over parts (of course, that led to buying some other new ones). Just in case someone wants more inspiration... no log - too quick for that.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R4 obviously...


Is your tubing translucent purple or is that a coolant dye?


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Your CPU fan is mounted the wrong way
> 
> Or did you do that on purpose?


it's almost 10 degrees colder when it doesn't blow the hot air back to the cpu, although it's a lot prettier the other way


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I asked this here once before, but I forgot the answer (sorry!)
> 
> What's the best type of spray paint if I want to paint my expansion slot covers black?
> *Is your tubing translucent purple or is that a coolant dye?*


I haven't used it myself but I follow this thread and the watercooling one and my best guess would be that what you're looking for is PlastiDip. Seems to work wonders









*Transparent purple tubing. Look at the reservoir, it's clearly non-dyed coolant







*


----------



## bigsobes87

Nice job...like the touch with the Noctua fans and cooler, seems to offset the red, black, and white fairly well


----------



## bigsobes87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> so... i bought a r4 a few weeks ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> went from this:
> 
> to this:
> 
> turned out okey, although there's alot of cables to manage...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the fan controller from my last build matches! (thank god, 8 fans at 12 volt would be awful...)
> 
> i've also replaced the original drivemounts with white ones from my old r3, just because they blend in better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the rest of the cables will be managed properly once i can afford new cables for my psu.
> EDIT: the cooling in this case wasn't planned at all, i just found random fans in random places all around my room...


Nice job...like the touch with the Noctua fans and cooler, seems to offset the red, black, and white fairly well


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigsobes87*
> 
> Nice job...like the touch with the Noctua fans and cooler, seems to offset the red, black, and white fairly well


personally i wouldn't mind something different, but i can't find a good replacement as noctua is kinda awesome


----------



## Darth Scabrous

I have a question. Building a new desktop, and was wondering if a Seasonic 860w Platinum psu would power a FX-8320 and crossfire R9 280x. Everything will be overclocked, but not crazily.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> I have a question. Building a new desktop, and was wondering if a Seasonic 860w Platinum psu would power a FX-8320 and crossfire R9 280x. Everything will be overclocked, but not crazily.


Cooler Master V850 is the same PSU just cheaper and without the coil whine

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171079&Tpk=V850

But you could do with a 700-750 watts

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171080


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> I have a question. Building a new desktop, and was wondering if a Seasonic 860w Platinum psu would power a FX-8320 and crossfire R9 280x. Everything will be overclocked, but not crazily.


each card is around 200 watts, so yeah, that's fine.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

actually, newegg has a $40 off promo code for the seasonic. Where do you hear about coil whine?

And, if I was mining with the cards and cpu, that 750w wouldn't be enough, would it? They would be on full load a lot.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> actually, newegg has a $40 off promo code for the seasonic. Where do you hear about coil whine?
> 
> And, if I was mining with the cards and cpu, that 750w wouldn't be enough, would it? They would be on full load a lot.


Its a very known fact that the Seasonic Platinum has coil whine

Pretty much everyone knows this and over in at the Platinum club they often talk about that they have sent their PSU back for RMA due to coil whine


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> I have a question. Building a new desktop, and was wondering if a Seasonic 860w Platinum psu would power a FX-8320 and crossfire R9 280x. Everything will be overclocked, but not crazily.


Definitely, but this is the Fractal Design thread...


----------



## Darth Scabrous

Its all going into a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its a very known fact that the Seasonic Platinum has coil whine
> 
> Pretty much everyone knows this and over in at the Platinum club they often talk about that they have sent their PSU back for RMA due to coil whine


Isn't the Corsair AX860 a re-brand of that same PSU? I've never had coil whine on mine.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Isn't the Corsair AX860 a re-brand of that same PSU? I've never had coil whine on mine.


Yes it is and coil whine is also a very common problem on the AX860

Think you are one of the few that have not gotten one with coil whine

Or you just cant hear it


----------



## Anoxy

Hmm, my ears are generally very sensitive to high pitched noise. Could it have something to do with the fan mode (hybrid vs. standard) or perhaps the amount of power being drawn from it?


----------



## Abula

While there is no denying the Seasonic X and Platinum series have coil whine, its not an issue present always with everybody. I have built on X660 and X400 and i have no issues. Some believe is not an issue with PSU alone, but a combination of hardware or settings, even Seasonic Rep have suggested certain settings on bios to help fix some, but doesnt work on all.

Weather you get the coil whine or not... its a gamble, but so is with a lot of PSUs, seasonic has been bashed a lot out it being so quiet, and some users build on them fairly quiet setups, so they are more susceptible to hearing noise.

Corsair new RM series is being market as no coil or noise, the reviews arent as high as Seasonic Platinum, but its you money, at $150 seems like a good deal the Platimum 860 as long as you dont get the coil whine.

Atm if i were to buy a platinum PSU, i would probably go with Kingiwn LZP Platinum Series.


----------



## Akula

Just need some classification with the Define R4 & Watercooling.
I'm aware the Define R4 is capable of housing "slim" radiators in the top compartment, how slim?

I'm interested in mounting an EK PE Series 240mm Radiator & Noiseblocker PL-2 Fans in the top section of the Define R4.

*Radiator Dimensions (EK PE 240mm)
Dimensions: 280 x 130 x 38mm (L x W x H)*

Will there be sufficient clearance between the motherboard & fans/radiator?

I'm aware that thinner radiators such as the Corsair H100i are able to fit, although this being a 38mm thickness radiator i may be pushing it.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Just need some classification with the Define R4 & Watercooling.
> I'm aware the Define R4 is capable of housing "slim" radiators in the top compartment, how slim?
> 
> I'm interested in mounting an EK PE Series 240mm Radiator & Noiseblocker PL-2 Fans in the top section of the Define R4.
> 
> *Radiator Dimensions (EK PE 240mm)
> Dimensions: 280 x 130 x 38mm (L x W x H)*
> 
> Will there be sufficient clearance between the motherboard & fans/radiator?
> 
> I'm aware that thinner radiators such as the Corsair H100i are able to fit, although this being a 38mm thickness radiator i may be pushing it.


even the H100i is pushing it... i can barely fit another fan underneath my current fans, which means there's around 50 mm in total from the roof to the radiator.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I haven't used it myself but I follow this thread and the watercooling one and my best guess would be that what you're looking for is PlastiDip. Seems to work wonders
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Transparent purple tubing. Look at the reservoir, it's clearly non-dyed coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


PlastiDip would work well. Or a higher quality acrylic spray would as well


----------



## Akula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> even the H100i is pushing it... i can barely fit another fan underneath my current fans, which means there's around 50 mm in total from the roof to the radiator.


Ok so you're able to bit the H100i & 2x25mm fans in the top section?
Have you got any extra room before it hits the DDR3 clips? OR Heatsink?

Also i heard rumors Fractal improved the mounting so it's central and not off-center, correct?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Also i heard rumors Fractal improved the mounting so it's central and not off-center, correct?


On the Define R4 is centered, on the ARC MIDI R2 is off center.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Ok so you're able to bit the H100i & 2x25mm fans in the top section?
> Have you got any extra room before it hits the DDR3 clips? OR Heatsink?
> 
> Also i heard rumors Fractal improved the mounting so it's central and not off-center, correct?


i can only fit fans, no radiator...


----------



## Akula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> i can only fit fans, no radiator...


Really? What motherboard?


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Really? What motherboard?


Maximus v gene. I could maybe fit a really thin radiator with only one set of fans, but definitely not push/pull.


----------



## Anoxy

Wow, didn't realize the define was so much more cramped than the Midi. I mean even the Arc Mini can fit a rad in the top.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Wow, didn't realize the define was so much more cramped than the Midi. I mean even the Arc Mini can fit a rad in the top.


it's not that cramped, but it really needs offset mounts... hopefully in the r5.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> On the Define R4 is centered, on the ARC MIDI R2 is off center.


actually the R4 has two positions, centered and off centered.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> actually the R4 has two positions, centered and off centered.


That makes absolutely no sense. Sorry mate...


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> That makes absolutely no sense. Sorry mate...


What makes no sense. If you look there are two sets of holes for 240mm settings. One is centered and the other is off centered.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> What makes no sense. If you look there are two sets of holes for 240mm settings. One is centered and the other is off centered.


Oh... alright then, my appologies it did sort of make sense in a twisted way ^^.

What's meant by off set is the mounts are closer to the left pannel (far from the motherboard for more clearence)







.

Like on these photos found on google:


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> actually the R4 has two positions, centered and off centered.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


we're thinking offset to the side, to be able to mount a radiator that will cover the mobo.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Oh... alright then, my appologies it did sort of make sense in a twisted way ^^.
> 
> What's meant by off set is the mounts are closer to the left pannel (far from the motherboard for more clearence)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Like on these photos found on google:


Yes this is exactly what I meant, sorry for the confusion of my wording.


----------



## bigsobes87

In the Arc Midi R2, since the mounting is off center for a 240mm radiator like the H100i at the top, I should be able to do push/pull with ease?? I have a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo with Corsair Vengeance memory. If not I'm not too concerned was just wondering if I would be having any issues, both my Arc Midi R2 and H100i will be here sometime next week, transplanting my system into that from an Antec Eleven Hundred....


----------



## nitroxyl

Have any Define R4 users experienced blue screens when decreasing fan speed using the integrated Fan Controller?
I've been using it fine for the first few months since I bought it, but for no apparent reason it started getting wonky and giving blue screens these past few weeks.

Specs:
Intel i5-4670k
MSI Z87-G41
Corsair Vengeance 8GB RAM
Cougar RS650W PSU (Which has proven to be a 600W)

I'm currently ruling out only my PSU being the source of the problems due to the inability to regulate the voltages going to/fro the motherboard.
Can anyone suggest any modular PSU solutions? Thanks a bunch!


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Have any Define R4 users experienced blue screens when decreasing fan speed using the integrated Fan Controller?
> I've been using it fine for the first few months since I bought it, but for no apparent reason it started getting wonky and giving blue screens these past few weeks.
> ...
> I'm currently ruling out only my PSU being the source of the problems due to the inability to regulate the voltages going to/fro the motherboard.
> Can anyone suggest any modular PSU solutions? Thanks a bunch!


The only reason I can think for that (other than there being a possibility of it overheating with slower fans) is that there is a problem with the 5V levels (loading, etc.) or a problem with the 5V wires. The way the fan controller is wired is weird, and I wouldn't have ever guessed it was the case if I hadn't tried to power it via an external 12V PSU during building and testing. For whatever reason it appears that the 7V and 5V settings pull from the 5V leads (although this is impossible unless the 7V is really 5V and the 5V is really 3V or something...). I meant to get a multimeter and check them at the fan connections, but I forgot.

In any case my PSU has a 2 wire Molex connection with only the 12V leads connected. At the 12V setting on the case, all fans spun fine... but at the 7V & 5V settings they would not spin at all, and an LED fan wouldn't even light the LEDs - so I conclude that there is no power being drawn from the 12V leads of the Molex connection at all. I confirmed this by connecting a much lower current external PSU which provides both 12V & 5V (all 4 leads of the connector) which despite being a 1.5A PSU, vs. 3A in the first PSU, allowed the fans to operate at all 3 speeds.

I'll try to remember to bring my meter in to work so I can check the voltages at the fan connections at each setting, and if/when that happens I'll report back here. If anyone else hasn't done it by that time that is.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Have any Define R4 users experienced blue screens when decreasing fan speed using the integrated Fan Controller?
> I've been using it fine for the first few months since I bought it, but for no apparent reason it started getting wonky and giving blue screens these past few weeks.
> 
> Specs:
> Intel i5-4670k
> MSI Z87-G41
> Corsair Vengeance 8GB RAM
> Cougar RS650W PSU (Which has proven to be a 600W)
> 
> I'm currently ruling out only my PSU being the source of the problems due to the inability to regulate the voltages going to/fro the motherboard.
> Can anyone suggest any modular PSU solutions? Thanks a bunch!


I think some time ago it was discussed in this threat. I am on a phone so I don't have a link actually....
Got ninjad









PSU wise I would recommend you a be quiet or Fractal but at most a Corsair one especially the rm series, because it is semi passiv and you can change to sleeved cables, they are all made by seasonic, which I would suggest also.
If you don't mind the sleeved cables for the future than just get one that is on sale. You will be fine with all of the brands.


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone know if they make HDD brackets for the ODD bay on the Arc Midi?

I'll be removing the entire HDD cage to make room for my water cooling loop and I'd like a spot to put my HDDs.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone know if they make HDD brackets for the ODD bay on the Arc Midi?
> 
> I'll be removing the entire HDD cage to make room for my water cooling loop and I'd like a spot to put my HDDs.


Could always just get somethin like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816119027

And then keep the faceplate for that 1 slot in


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone know if they make HDD brackets for the ODD bay on the Arc Midi?
> 
> I'll be removing the entire HDD cage to make room for my water cooling loop and I'd like a spot to put my HDDs.


You can use something like this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Could always just get somethin like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816119027
> 
> And then keep the faceplate for that 1 slot in


Thanks, that looks like it might be the ticket. Do you think stacking two drives on top of each other in there would lead to heat issues?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can use something like this
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073


Unfortunately I need one bay for my fan controller, but the one cyphon linked may work. Thanks!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Thanks, that looks like it might be the ticket. Do you think stacking two drives on top of each other in there would lead to heat issues?
> Unfortunately I need one bay for my fan controller, but the one cyphon linked may work. Thanks!


You will only really be able to get 1 in there with the mount i linked. I also would not stack HDDs on top of each other. SSD would be no problem to stack


----------



## TSXmike

dang... just realized the mini R2 is out after already receiving my mini R1. :/


----------



## Turt1e

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Have any Define R4 users experienced blue screens when decreasing fan speed using the integrated Fan Controller?
> I've been using it fine for the first few months since I bought it, but for no apparent reason it started getting wonky and giving blue screens these past few weeks.
> 
> Specs:
> Intel i5-4670k
> MSI Z87-G41
> Corsair Vengeance 8GB RAM
> Cougar RS650W PSU (Which has proven to be a 600W)
> 
> I'm currently ruling out only my PSU being the source of the problems due to the inability to regulate the voltages going to/fro the motherboard.
> Can anyone suggest any modular PSU solutions? Thanks a bunch!


With an OCZ PSU, I got a BSOD when I changed it, and with a Seasonic one, my motherboard got fried from it.


----------



## nitroxyl

So I should just stray away from the integrated fan controller at all costs?


----------



## stanimir330

In my fractal is not very tidy, but I still working on it


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You will only really be able to get 1 in there with the mount i linked. I also would not stack HDDs on top of each other. SSD would be no problem to stack


dual drives ain't a problem if you cool them, stuff a 92mm fan up there


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> So I should just stray away from the integrated fan controller at all costs?


Probably. I'm using it and I don't have any problems at all (Corsair AX850 PSU)... that being said I basically just leave it at 12V all the time since I'm just running 3 GT AP13's off of it and they are completely silent even at full speed - since that's only 1200RPM. I can hear my MCP35X much better even at 30% PWM cycle... but if it's actually caused such significant problems with other people's rigs - I'd say stay away if possible.

It's not like you can't get a good and cheap fan controller - and unless you're using both 5.25" bays... why risk it.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> So I should just stray away from the integrated fan controller at all costs?


I use mine on the Arc MIDI R2 and it works great (running 7 fans). I usually run 7v and then 12v when gaming.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> So I should just stray away from the integrated fan controller at all costs?


Why, I use mine and it works fine controlling LED light strips.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> So I should just stray away from the integrated fan controller at all costs?


mine works fine at all settings... using an ax 860 in case you wondered.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I use mine on the Arc MIDI R2 and it works great (running 7 fans). I usually run 7v and then 12v when gaming.


i run all my fans at 5 volts all the time, despite the rig being under full load 24/7


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone know if this window panel is the fully translucent, non-smoke version?

If not, anybody wanna trade for my smoke window?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Yeah that's the clear one.


----------



## desertsolace

Very happy with my Define Mini (built like a tank). I'm coming from a CM Sniper so I'm enjoying the leg room under my desk!
Looking to add a side fan still and haven't removed the padding where the fans could be yet.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desertsolace*
> 
> Very happy with my Define Mini (built like a tank). I'm coming from a CM Sniper so I'm enjoying the leg room under my desk!
> Looking to add a side fan still and haven't removed the padding where the fans could be yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


i wouldn't bother with a sidefan, i'd rather mount that single drive in the top and get rid of the cage, then i'd rather install some proper fans in front and rear







othen than that, nice


----------



## desertsolace

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/2

I just read that and I actually was thinking of moving the front to side then buying one more and putting it in top. Pretty crazy results though it is different case


----------



## HoZy




----------



## Timberwolf21

Hello all, my current build consists of the first generation Arc Midi. I've had it for close to 3 years now, and it has served my needs amazingly.
I recently moved my drives to the ODD bays with some ordinary brackets and managed to fit my SSD in underneath them.








(Dust filtering works wonders luckily)

Components are:
i7-2600K @ 4.2Ghz
Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3R-B3
MSI 560Ti Twin Frozr 1Gb
8GB Corsair 1600Mhz RAM
OCZ Agility 3 128Gb SSD
1Tb and 2Tb HDD
Noctua C14 Cooler
Auzentech X-Forte soundcard
Enermax NAXN 750w PSU

Sadly, I am looking to upgrade, yet downsize, from my Arc Midi to the Arc Mini R2, with AIO CPU cooling in mind.So I plan to sell off this system to help finance my next system. Thoughts on whether asking for around $1,100 (AUD) is too much?

More photos in link


http://imgur.com/b1AWq


+ great to be apart of this community ^_^


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desertsolace*
> 
> Very happy with my Define Mini (built like a tank). I'm coming from a CM Sniper so I'm enjoying the leg room under my desk!
> Looking to add a side fan still and haven't removed the padding where the fans could be yet.


Nice. I have a define mini and it is indeed tank like. I love mine coming from a much larger (and louder looking and sounding) Lancool K62 case. The only bummer is there is not a side window









I don't mind it too much but now and again id like the option to run with one from time to time. As for the side fan, i took the cover off but haven't put a fan there, i can see into the case a small amount and the CPU tower cooler is so close to it im getting direct airflow in without the need to fit a fan hence quieter.


----------



## Pip Boy

..actually you guys might be able to help here..

Does the Arc Midi side panel with window fit the Define Mini ? I read both cases are identical in dimension


----------



## desertsolace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> ..actually you guys might be able to help here..
> 
> Does the Arc Midi side panel with window fit the Define Mini ? I read both cases are identical in dimension


I'm not sure but
Arc Mini Case (WxHxD): 210 x 405 x 484mm
Arc Midi Case (WxHxD): 230 x 460 x 515mm
Define Mini Case size (WxHxD): 210 x 395 x 490mm


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> ..actually you guys might be able to help here..
> 
> Does the Arc Midi side panel with window fit the Define Mini ? I read both cases are identical in dimension


Nope.

The Arc Midi is roughly the same size as the Define R4.

The Arc Mini is roughly the same size as the Define Mini.

As far as I know they don't make a windowed panel that fit's the Mini series.

Except the Mini R2 but I don't think that is sold separately.


----------



## MiiX

Redid my cable "management" in my Core 1000 as I did some measurements for modding purposes


----------



## DamyLv

hi all! last week i finished assembling my own rig









I am using a Core 1000 modded by me
I cutted a hole in the front to fit an 92mm fan just above the 120mm one


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







So, i moved the vertical hd mounting bracket to the other side of the case. I obviously got to drill a couple of new screw holes


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







All components are ready..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I especially like the ga-78lmt-usb3. This Rev5.0 got awesome colours.
I replaced GeminIIm4 stock fan with an Arctic Cooling F12 Pwm and that's how it appears









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Finally I replaced Fractal Design Silent 120mm with a Coolermaster Jetflo 120 Red and sticked a blue led just behind the 92mm one.
That led was power led on an old not used case.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> The Arc Midi is roughly the same size as the Define R4.
> 
> The Arc Mini is roughly the same size as the Define Mini.
> 
> As far as I know they don't make a windowed panel that fit's the Mini series.
> 
> Except the Mini R2 but I don't think that is sold separately.


looks like im going to have to make a custom window.

never modded to that level before should i try it ?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> looks like im going to have to make a custom window.
> 
> never modded to that level before should i try it ?


It is one of the easiest mods to do







you will be fine


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> looks like im going to have to make a custom window.
> 
> never modded to that level before should i try it ?


Do you own a dremel and feel comfortable with it.Take a look here if the answer is yes. Thanks

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g42/Window_Kits.html?id=exAcN2HE


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Do you own a dremel and feel comfortable with it.Take a look here if the answer is yes. Thanks
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g42/Window_Kits.html?id=exAcN2HE


Or a Jig saw is better if you got 1...mnpctech has some good tutorials


----------



## Rar4f

Hi guys,

i had a idea for R4 Define case and would like input. I will have only one ssd, hdd and optical drive. So i thought, to open up the space between where lower hdd cage is at,
i could remove it, install the one hdd at the second optical bay and the ssd at back of the case.

It sounds great to me, so i want to see if anyone has done this or have any constructive comments.
I am aware it will be a hassel to remove the ssd later on if i have to, but that's fine by me.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i had a idea for R4 Define case and would like input. I will have only one ssd, hdd and optical drive. So i thought, to open up the space between where lower hdd cage is at,
> i could remove it, install the one hdd at the second optical bay and the ssd at back of the case.
> 
> It sounds great to me, so i want to see if anyone has done this or have any constructive comments.
> I am aware it will be a hassel to remove the ssd later on if i have to, but that's fine by me.


I already have plans to do this if I can be bothered to move everything. I'm upgrading to an 8320 soon and if I can snag a cheap DH-14/Silver Arrow or good 240mm/280mm CLC on black friday I'll be rearrange my case to improve airflow.

If you don't see yourself changing the SSD anytime soon then why not?


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I already have plans to do this if I can be bothered to move everything. I'm upgrading to an 8320 soon and if I can snag a cheap DH-14/Silver Arrow or good 240mm/280mm CLC on black friday I'll be rearrange my case to improve airflow.
> 
> If you don't see yourself changing the SSD anytime soon then why not?


I guess i was worried about SSD's temperature. But i guess that's just paranoia.


----------



## Moragg

I can't comment on that, but I don't expect it would be an issue. That said, it is effort and I suspect kind of pointless unless you at least install a fan in the front lower position.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I guess i was worried about SSD's temperature. But i guess that's just paranoia.


I've got 2 Samsung 830's behind the motherboard of my R4 and they don't go above 30 degrees so you'll be fine.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I've got 2 Samsung 830's behind the motherboard of my R4 and they don't go above 30 degrees so you'll be fine.


I love you !


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I love you !


Haha. No worries.


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Do you own a dremel and feel comfortable with it.Take a look here if the answer is yes. Thanks
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g42/Window_Kits.html?id=exAcN2HE


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Or a Jig saw is better if you got 1...mnpctech has some good tutorials


thanks for the link and no i dont own a dremel but I was actually thinking of using an entire perspex side screen or a dual layer acrylic with screws tapped in. Someone else on this thread did it and it looks mint


----------



## Rar4f

Does R4 Define come with any acessory that will help you put a 3.5HDD into 5.25bays?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Does R4 Define come with any acessory that will help you put a 3.5HDD into 5.25bays?


None that i remember, just 5.25 plain slots. But its pretty easy, ORICO AC52535-1S -BL Full Aluminum 5.25 " to 2.5 " / 5.25 to 3.5 / 2.5 & 3.5 - inch All - in - 1 Hard Drive HDD/SSD Converter / Adapter Mounting bracket (5.25 to 2.5 or 3.5 5.25 to 2.5 or 3.5 Black)


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> None that i remember, just 5.25 plain slots. But its pretty easy, ORICO AC52535-1S -BL Full Aluminum 5.25 " to 2.5 " / 5.25 to 3.5 / 2.5 & 3.5 - inch All - in - 1 Hard Drive HDD/SSD Converter / Adapter Mounting bracket (5.25 to 2.5 or 3.5 5.25 to 2.5 or 3.5 Black)


Would have been convenient if it did. Also i live in EU not US. There are only two adapters that are around same price as the one you linked to and both of them look cheap.

Thanks for consideration though.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I am aware it will be a hassel to remove the ssd later on if i have to, but that's fine by me.


You can attach the ssd with some velcro if you want. Easy to remove later. If you are ambitious I have seen some people make little aluminum trays.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You can attach the ssd with some velcro if you want. Easy to remove later. If you are ambitious I have seen some people make little aluminum trays.


It's cool, i found a adapter that got 9 fivestars on Amazon, that is at reasonable price at my location








Lian Li MF515


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phill1978*
> 
> thanks for the link and no i dont own a dremel but I was actually thinking of using an entire perspex side screen or a dual layer acrylic with screws tapped in. Someone else on this thread did it and it looks mint


In that case it gets a little easier, lol

Waiting for pics


----------



## manwich

My camera and photography skillz are the suck, and it a lil dusty, but here it is.
Feedback is welcomed.

http://s155.photobucket.com/user/m3llomik3/media/PC/IMG_0479.jpg.html
http://s155.photobucket.com/user/m3llomik3/media/PC/IMG_0490.jpg.html
http://s155.photobucket.com/user/m3llomik3/media/PC/IMG_0474.jpg.html
http://s155.photobucket.com/user/m3llomik3/media/PC/IMG_0503.jpg.html


----------



## Darth Scabrous

[/URL]
New build! Named it War


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manwich*
> 
> My camera and photography skillz are the suck, and it a lil dusty, but here it is.
> Feedback is welcomed.


Looks great! Megahalems all the way!


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manwich*
> 
> My camera and photography skillz are the suck, and it a lil dusty, but here it is.
> Feedback is welcomed.


What fan is that you have mounted on the bottom? Is it a 120mm?


----------



## manwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Looks great! Megahalems all the way!


Yea buddy, it's a beast.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> What fan is that you have mounted on the bottom? Is it a 120mm?


It's a 140mm stock fan that came with the case. The grill I bought seperately


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manwich*
> 
> It's a 140mm stock fan that came with the case. The grill I bought seperately


Well dammit. I made sure to get a 160mm psu because Fractal specifies that this is the max to fit a 140mm fan. Ended up with an XFX Pro Black Edition 850w. I think it's a solid psu, seaonic rebrand right down the "hybrid" silent mode. But I just do not like this psu. It feels cheap, comes with flat plastic cables that makes me feel like I want to buy braided extesions, with the exception of a monstrously thick braided 24 pin cable that causes a slight bulge in the side panel, it just will not bend enough to fit the side panel flush, even with an extension to enhance cable tie down.

But that psu you've got is longer than 160mm, it's got to be at least 165mm or maybe even 170mm? If I'd known I had that option I would have picked a different psu.

Here's how the 160mm deep XFX looks with a 140mm fan installed:



At least the XFX was cheap, $95 with rebate. Still, I would have preferred something else.


----------



## manwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Well dammit. I made sure to get a 160mm psu because Fractal specifies that this is the max to fit a 140mm fan. Ended up with an XFX Pro Black Edition 850w. I think it's a solid psu, seaonic rebrand right down the "hybrid" silent mode. But I just do not like this psu. It feels cheap, comes with flat plastic cables that makes me feel like I want to buy braided extesions, with the exception of a monstrously thick braided 24 pin cable that causes a slight bulge in the side panel, it just will not bend enough to fit the side panel flush, even with an extension to enhance cable tie down.
> 
> But that psu you've got is longer than 160mm, it's got to be at least 165mm or maybe even 170mm? If I'd known I had that option I would have picked a different psu.
> 
> Here's how the 160mm deep XFX looks with a 140mm fan installed:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least the XFX was cheap, $95 with rebate. Still, I would have preferred something else.


The ax850 I have is actually 160mm long, so I guess that answers your question lol. I was either gonna go with this corsair psu or a seasonic 850w. Both are gold rated with good reviews. I got no complaints with corsair psu, I'm also using sleeved cable extensions in my PC for the 24 pin and PCI express cables. That's strange that your 24 pin cable is that stiff.

The cables that came with my psu are also flat and plasticky but I don't feel like replacing all of them. However they are a b**** to disconnect.

I just noticed on newegg that my psu has been discontinued.


----------



## manwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> New build! Named it War


Very nice. First time I've seen anyone use that coolermaster CPU fan.

What do you have in the front of the case, is it just cables?


----------



## Darth Scabrous

That cooler is amazing. But yeah just cables. With the extensions, they wouldn't fit behind. I wanted to make a psu cover, but it would look horrible. I won't if someone else can make one.


----------



## manwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darth Scabrous*
> 
> That cooler is amazing. But yeah just cables. With the extensions, they wouldn't fit behind. I wanted to make a psu cover, but it would look horrible. I won't if someone else can make one.


Yea I know what you mean. It's a pretty tight fit behind my mobo with only a few extensions.


----------



## Darth Scabrous

If I can find a thermal bender, I might make my own. Just have to come up with a custom design for it.


----------



## manwich

If you can pull it off that will look sweet, and hide all the cables you want haha


----------



## nolonger

Looking into a Fractal Define R4. Anything I should be aware of before pulling the trigger?


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manwich*
> 
> Yea buddy, it's a beast.


I get better performance with it than my H100


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolonger*
> 
> Looking into a Fractal Define R4. Anything I should be aware of before pulling the trigger?


well, it's heavy







other than that, no, nothing special.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolonger*
> 
> Looking into a Fractal Define R4. Anything I should be aware of before pulling the trigger?


It has a door in the front. I think its the dream if you want a simple, stylish, quiet and overall awesome, as long as you like that door(my dealbreaker)


----------



## nolonger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> well, it's heavy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> other than that, no, nothing special.


Won't be moving it around much and my guess is heavy means good build quality.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> It has a door in the front. I think its the dream if you want a simple, stylish, quiet and overall awesome, as long as you like that door(my dealbreaker)


Pretty much what I'm going for. I won't be needing CD/DVD/Blu Ray drives so no need to open the door. It does worry me a tiny bit that temperatures will be high, but my sistem isn't even overclocked at the moment so I guess heat isn't an issue.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolonger*
> 
> Won't be moving it around much and my guess is heavy means good build quality.


then you're fine







i was shocked, even though i came from a haf x... i picked it up and was like "holy crap, how am i supposed to place this under my desk?!", i guess the wheels on the haf x were a little handy after all


----------



## manwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nolonger*
> 
> Looking into a Fractal Define R4. Anything I should be aware of before pulling the trigger?


The only thing I can think of that kinda bugged me with the case, was the openings of the optical bays for the plastic front of the case. I actually had to file down the small plastic elevations between the openings so that my fan controller could fit through it. Other than that small inconvenience, it's the best case I've ever owned.

And as others have said, it is pretty heavy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I get better performance with it than my H100


Yea I actually swapped out my H100i with the Megahalem and didn't really notice any difference.

I just noticed that you're the one with the green "sniper" pc. Your build actually inspired me to make my pc the way it is lol.


----------



## S[email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manwich*
> 
> I just noticed that you're the one with the green "sniper" pc. Your build actually inspired me to make my pc the way it is lol.











That's awesome!


----------



## Anoxy

So, thinking about future upgrades already and I haven't even finished putting together my first water loop....









If I were to remove the ODD bays to make room for a 360 rad up top in my Arc Midi R2, what would be the best way to control the 6 fans that won't fit on my motherboard?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, thinking about future upgrades already and I haven't even finished putting together my first water loop....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I were to remove the ODD bays to make room for a 360 rad up top in my Arc Midi R2, what would be the best way to control the 6 fans that won't fit on my motherboard?


What fans are you planning on using?


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So, thinking about future upgrades already and I haven't even finished putting together my first water loop....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I were to remove the ODD bays to make room for a 360 rad up top in my Arc Midi R2, what would be the best way to control the 6 fans that won't fit on my motherboard?


http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7912_Y-Cable-3Pin-Molex-to-6x-3Pin-Molex-60cm----black.html
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p15900_Phobya-adapter-4Pin-Molex-to-3Pin-5V-7V-12V-10cm---black.html


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Has anyone installed HDD's into the 2 x 5.25" bays at the top of the Arc Mini? I'd like to add 2 more 3.5" hard drives to mine and I'm wondering how I'd cool them. I don't need them hot swappable.

Are they are any quality products out there like this one?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> What fans are you planning on using?


Gentle Typhoons AP-15s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7912_Y-Cable-3Pin-Molex-to-6x-3Pin-Molex-60cm----black.html
> http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p15900_Phobya-adapter-4Pin-Molex-to-3Pin-5V-7V-12V-10cm---black.html


I'm assuming I would have no control over how fast the fans run? They would run at their max 1850 RPM all the time?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I'm assuming I would have no control over how fast the fans run? They would run at their max 1850 RPM all the time?


Yes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Gentle Typhoons AP-15s.


Sunbeamtech PL-RS-6 Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller. In theory it should convert a single PWM singal (CPU_FAN) into a 3pin voltage controlled, it can connect 6 fans so it should match what you want. And if it doesnt work like you like for whatever reason, push the buttons and it will overwrite the PWM fan control and convert the controller into individually controlled channels that you can adjust with the knobs.




As a final comment, Phantek has a similar thing on their PH-TC14PE, which comes with a converter from a 4pin PWM signal to voltage control, but i haven't seen sold separately, also the Phantek primo has a module that does this but in a bigger scale with more fan connectors, the case has an extra optional second mount for a second controller, so i thin phantek is planning on selling this, but the case is new and maybe the accessories are not complete to reach retail. I would drop by OCN Phanteks Enthoo Primo Owner's Club maybe someone knows about what sku is this product or if they know where to buy it.. I would also crosscheck in that thread that the item works as i said, i dont own the primo to be able to tested personally, just going by what i have read.

Good luck,


----------



## PuffinMyLye

I have one of these fan controllers in mint condition if you're interested. Worked fantastic with my AP-15's.

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/077/km03_detail.html


----------



## Anoxy

You guys are missing the point here. I will be removing the ODD bays to make room for a 360mm radiator in the top of my case.....so no room for a fan controller. I already have one, but I can't use it if I upgrade to a 360mm rad.

240mm rad in front in push/pull = 4 fans
360mm rad up top in push/pull = 6 fans
140mm exhaust fan in rear = 1 fan

Total = 11 fans

I have room for 6 fans on my motherboard. That leaves 5 fans that would need power, and some level of control would also be nice if possible.

Something like this would work but then I would have to run 5 fans at full speed 24/7 and that could be loud...slightly defeating the purpose of watercooling
haha
http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-AC-GRID-10-M1-Cooling-Black/dp/B00D2ZK2VW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


----------



## Darth Scabrous

you may just have to get y splitters


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You guys are missing the point here. I will be removing the ODD bays to make room for a 360mm radiator in the top of my case.....so no room for a fan controller. I already have one, but I can't use it if I upgrade to a 360mm rad.
> 
> 240mm rad in front in push/pull = 4 fans
> 360mm rad up top in push/pull = 6 fans
> 140mm exhaust fan in rear = 1 fan
> 
> Total = 11 fans
> 
> I have room for 6 fans on my motherboard. That leaves 5 fans that would need power, and some level of control would also be nice if possible.
> 
> Something like this would work but then I would have to run 5 fans at full speed 24/7 and that could be loud...slightly defeating the purpose of watercooling
> haha
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-AC-GRID-10-M1-Cooling-Black/dp/B00D2ZK2VW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


I dont know what your budget is for fan controller but you can try something like this. You can just locate it somewhere in the case I have the bottom one. My fans only come on when my water temperature rises. At idle I don't even think my machine is on.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=31251

or this
http://koolance.com/tms-205-software-thermal-interface-controller

I have one of these I dont suggest it but it works. not happy with it
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32268

One or two of these to send a temperature signal from the water

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1236&products_id=38400

if you really want to do it up you can get a flow sensor from koolance and add it also

Flow Sensor
http://koolance.com/ins-fm19-coolant-flow-meter

Flow adapter for above
http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You guys are missing the point here. I will be removing the ODD bays to make room for a 360mm radiator in the top of my case.....so no room for a fan controller. I already have one, but I can't use it if I upgrade to a 360mm rad.
> 
> 240mm rad in front in push/pull = 4 fans
> 360mm rad up top in push/pull = 6 fans
> 140mm exhaust fan in rear = 1 fan
> 
> Total = 11 fans
> 
> I have room for 6 fans on my motherboard. That leaves 5 fans that would need power, and some level of control would also be nice if possible.
> 
> Something like this would work but then I would have to run 5 fans at full speed 24/7 and that could be loud...slightly defeating the purpose of watercooling
> haha
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-AC-GRID-10-M1-Cooling-Black/dp/B00D2ZK2VW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


Aren't AP 15s very low power draw, like 0.1 amp each? You could just use a multi way splitter on to a chassis header and use mb control or speedfan, couldn't you? Afaik most chassis headers supply 1 amp. At even half that you could attach 4-5 AP 15s to a single header.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I dont know what your budget is for fan controller but you can try something like this. You can just locate it somewhere in the case I have the bottom one. My fans only come on when my water temperature rises. At idle I don't even think my machine is on.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_48&products_id=31251
> 
> or this
> http://koolance.com/tms-205-software-thermal-interface-controller
> 
> I have one of these I dont suggest it but it works. not happy with it
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32268
> 
> One or two of these to send a temperature signal from the water
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_239_1236&products_id=38400
> 
> if you really want to do it up you can get a flow sensor from koolance and add it also
> 
> Flow Sensor
> http://koolance.com/ins-fm19-coolant-flow-meter
> 
> Flow adapter for above
> http://koolance.com/adt-fm03-flow-meter-frequency-adapter


The Aquaero looks like a great option, thank you!

It says it supports 4 fan outputs...so would I just need to split one of those into 2 to power all 5 fans?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> The Aquaero looks like a great option, thank you!
> 
> It says it supports 4 fan outputs...so would I just need to split one of those into 2 to power all 5 fans?


You will need to look at the specs on it and compare it to the fans you are going to use. Looks like each channel can handle 1A so you should be okay. You should be able to do it with no problem. I have mine controlling 13 fans with splitters 5 channels for 13 fans.Just dont forget at least the temperature sensor for the water. The regular sensors for surface temperatures dont help when its under water. Thanks


----------



## Gunderman456

In Da Club!







Fractal Design Arc Midi R2.

It will be part of my new "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" build. Build Log in Sig.


----------



## 17jotinha

Good, very good









I Love...


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Has anyone installed HDD's into the 2 x 5.25" bays at the top of the Arc Mini? I'd like to add 2 more 3.5" hard drives to mine and I'm wondering how I'd cool them. I don't need them hot swappable.
> 
> Are they are any quality products out there like this one?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073


Anyone?


----------



## manwich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> Anyone?


What's wrong with what you linked? that Evercool HDD cage looks like it would work just fine for your situation for a good price.

If you want something higher quality, you could check out products from ICY DOCK.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994152
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994153
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994052

I have never bought or used any of these but they look solid.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manwich*
> 
> What's wrong with what you linked? that Evercool HDD cage looks like it would work just fine for your situation for a good price.
> 
> If you want something higher quality, you could check out products from ICY DOCK.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994152
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994153
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817994052
> 
> I have never bought or used any of these but they look solid.


I guess I was just looking to see if anyone had used one or done any other kind of mod themselves. Looks like it's my only option though. I looked at those Icy Docks but really have no need for hot swap bays since none of my other drives are hot swappable so it would just be a waste of money.


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PuffinMyLye*
> 
> if anyone had used one



only changed the stock fan on http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=9&lng=en work fine


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> 
> only changed the stock fan on http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=9&lng=en work fine


Awesome thanks!


----------



## Alex11223

I am trying to build a powerful and as silent as possible system.

Intel i7 4770k
Scythe Mugen 4
Asus Z87 Sabertooth
2x8 GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz CL9
Gainward GeForce GTX770 Phantom
Corsair RM 550-650W
2x HDD, 1x SSD
Should I take R4 or XL R2? Is there any benefits in XL R2 besides the size? (I think all my components will fit perfectly to R4)
Is there any differences in noise and cooling? I think XL R2 will have better cooling because of the size?

Is there enough cable length in RM 550 for XL R2?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex11223*
> 
> I am trying to build a powerful and as silent as possible system.
> 
> Intel i7 4770k
> Scythe Mugen 4
> Asus Z87 Sabertooth
> 2x8 GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz CL9
> Gainward GeForce GTX770 Phantom
> Corsair RM 550-650W
> 2x HDD, 1x SSD
> Should I take R4 or XL R2? Is there any benefits in XL R2 besides the size? (I think all my components will fit perfectly to R4)
> Is there any differences in noise and cooling? I think XL R2 will have better cooling because of the size?
> 
> Is there enough cable length in RM 550 for XL R2?


Size do not make it better at cooling alone. Only reason for you to get the XL is you need the optical drive space and have a eatx mobo.
Arc Midi R2 is a good choice, as silence is really based on how you cool everything with the fans you pick.
Scythe Mugen 4 is ok cooler, not sure what the cost is for you.


----------



## Alex11223

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Scythe Mugen 4 is ok cooler, not sure what the cost is for you.


My thread about choosing cooler is here http://www.overclock.net/t/1443679/cpu-cooler-for-powerful-gaming-etc-quiet-pc/10
I am choosing between this and Noktua NH-D14 (there is also NH-U12P SE2 but as I understood D14 is better). Mugen 4 is a lot cheaper and as I understood there is no much difference between them.


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You guys are missing the point here. I will be removing the ODD bays to make room for a 360mm radiator in the top of my case.....so no room for a fan controller. I already have one, but I can't use it if I upgrade to a 360mm rad.
> 
> 240mm rad in front in push/pull = 4 fans
> 360mm rad up top in push/pull = 6 fans
> 140mm exhaust fan in rear = 1 fan
> 
> Total = 11 fans
> 
> I have room for 6 fans on my motherboard. That leaves 5 fans that would need power, and some level of control would also be nice if possible.
> 
> Something like this would work but then I would have to run 5 fans at full speed 24/7 and that could be loud...slightly defeating the purpose of watercooling
> haha
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-AC-GRID-10-M1-Cooling-Black/dp/B00D2ZK2VW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


Actually you can add a bay controller. You just need to mod a little so you can mount it.

Arc Midi Alphacool XT45 360 rad mod


Use something like this to make new mounts.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You guys are missing the point here. I will be removing the ODD bays to make room for a 360mm radiator in the top of my case.....so no room for a fan controller. I already have one, but I can't use it if I upgrade to a 360mm rad.
> 
> 240mm rad in front in push/pull = 4 fans
> 360mm rad up top in push/pull = 6 fans
> 140mm exhaust fan in rear = 1 fan
> 
> Total = 11 fans
> 
> I have room for 6 fans on my motherboard. That leaves 5 fans that would need power, and some level of control would also be nice if possible.
> 
> Something like this would work but then I would have to run 5 fans at full speed 24/7 and that could be loud...slightly defeating the purpose of watercooling
> haha
> http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-AC-GRID-10-M1-Cooling-Black/dp/B00D2ZK2VW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


What you can do is get all your fans to be PWM. You get Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter, you'll need 2 of them. You plug both to the CPU header and CPU_OPT as they are the only true PWM, the rest of the headers are not and only voltage.

Other option is to get a fan controller, as you can use more than one fan per header. 5 bay = 10 fans you can run. But you need to find a way to get control of it.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What you can do is get all your fans to be PWM. You get Swiftech 8 Way PWM Splitter, you'll need 2 of them. You plug both to the CPU header and CPU_OPT as they are the only true PWM, the rest of the headers are not and only voltage.
> 
> Other option is to get a fan controller, as you can use more than one fan per header. 5 bay = 10 fans you can run. But you need to find a way to get control of it.


I don't think Scythe AP-15s are PWM fans, they are 3 pin. So if I went that route with the splitter, they would only be voltage controlled.

The Aquaero+water sensor seems like the best choice right now, but if I'm feeling particularly crafty I might try modding the case to fit a controller.


----------



## Anoxy

Now that I look at it, I don't even know how you remove the ODD bay rack. Those don't look like screws holding it in place.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

you would need to remove, cut or drill out the rivets.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I don't think Scythe AP-15s are PWM fans, they are 3 pin. So if I went that route with the splitter, they would only be voltage controlled.
> 
> The Aquaero+water sensor seems like the best choice right now, but if I'm feeling particularly crafty I might try modding the case to fit a controller.


Afaik if you use a molex or sata powered pwm splitter with 3 pin fans, they won't even be voltage controlled, they'll just run full speed, because the connector that plugs into the mb header is 2 pin, rpm sensor + speed control. They obviously don't need the 12v and ground because the molex/sata connection handles that. Maybe the Swiftech is different, but this is how the Gelid, Akasa, and Okgear pwm smart splitters work.

Aquaero is so expensive... If all you need is fan power and basic control that seems like a really inefficient solution. Definitely looks like a fun toy though, especially that remote. Where would the Aquaero be housed? Aren't those all bay devices? I thought the problem was the lack of an available bay. If you have the bay you can get a cheaper fan controller.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Afaik if you use a molex or sata powered pwm splitter with 3 pin fans, they won't even be voltage controlled, they'll just run full speed, because the connector that plugs into the mb header is 2 pin, rpm sensor + speed control. They obviously don't need the 12v and ground because the molex/sata connection handles that. Maybe the Swiftech is different, but this is how the Gelid, Akasa, and Okgear pwm smart splitters work.
> 
> Aquaero is so expensive... If all you need is fan power and basic control that seems like a really inefficient solution. Definitely looks like a fun toy though, especially that remote. Where would the Aquaero be housed? Aren't those all bay devices? I thought the problem was the lack of an available bay. If you have the bay you can get a cheaper fan controller.


I don't think the Aquaero 5 LT USB is supposed to be a bay device. I think the benefit of this is that I can connect it to an in-line temperature sensor and use software to set a fan profile based on that. I was thinking of just putting it on the floor of my case, hidden somewhere. But perhaps modding my case to fit a typical bay fan controller might be a better and cleaner choice.

Has anyone here removed the ODD bay on their Arc Midi and can give me some tips. This is way more difficult than I thought it would be.

edit: nevermind, I got it. All I needed to do was drill through them.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I don't think the Aquaero 5 LT USB is supposed to be a bay device. I think the benefit of this is that I can connect it to an in-line temperature sensor and use software to set a fan profile based on that. I was thinking of just putting it on the floor of my case, hidden somewhere. But perhaps modding my case to fit a typical bay fan controller might be a better and cleaner choice.
> 
> Has anyone here removed the ODD bay on their Arc Midi and can give me some tips. This is way more difficult than I thought it would be.
> 
> edit: nevermind, I got it. All I needed to do was drill through them.


The the Aquaero 5 LT USB is not a bay device it can be placed anywhere in the case. If you are going to water cool dont forget the temp sensors for the water if you want a true fan curve/control . Thanks


----------



## roleki

I have a Define Mini headed this way; reviews I have read indicate it is quiet but thermally inept, due largely to the stock fans. What would be a suitable replacement for the 120mm stock fans, keeping in mind I need this thing to be quiet?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roleki*
> 
> I have a Define Mini headed this way; reviews I have read indicate it is quiet but thermally inept, due largely to the stock fans. What would be a suitable replacement for the 120mm stock fans, keeping in mind I need this thing to be quiet?


Stock fans are fine. I didnt hear anything thermally inept.
Just need to make sure you have clear air movement that is not being blocked.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roleki*
> 
> I have a Define Mini headed this way; reviews I have read indicate it is quiet but thermally inept, due largely to the stock fans. What would be a suitable replacement for the 120mm stock fans, keeping in mind I need this thing to be quiet?


A little expensive yep ugly yep quite yep. Noctua 120mm 6 year warranty

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOCTUA-NF-P12-1300-120MM-SSO-BEARING-PREMIUM-FAN-/310412502363?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item484606e55b

http://www.platinummicro.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-FLX-SSO2-Bearing-1200-900-700rpm/dp/B00BEZKX8Y?field_availability=-1&field_browse=4926810011&field_keywords=noctua&id=Noctua+NF-S12A+FLX+SSO2-Bearing+1200-900-700rpm&ie=UTF8&refinementHistory=brandtextbin%2Csubjectbin%2Ccolor_map%2Cprice%2Csize_name%2Citem_type_keyword&searchKeywords=noctua&searchNodeID=4926810011&searchPage=1&searchRank=salesrank&searchSize=12

Good review here

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/noctua_nfs12a/4.htm

Better yet from this site
http://www.overclock.net/t/1016941/the-official-noctua-club


----------



## Malik

I have question to ARC XL users







I wanna install two radiators: EKWB 360 PE (top) and 240 PE (front). Is it a big problem to install this two radiators ?


----------



## taem

I'm getting an interesting result with case fan placement in the Define R4. Lower front + bottom intakes with rear exhaust gets me 4-5c lower mb temp and 2-3c lower cpu temp versus both front mounts + bottom intakes with rear exhaust. They're all nzxt fans at same rpm. I've been testing this over and over for two days, same result every time (idle testing only though). It happens in seconds; turn on that upper front intake, mb temp immediately climbs to 29c. Turn it off, it drops to 23c. I don't know what to make of this. Superficially, it looks like 3 intake and 1 exhaust is too much intake? Or maybe the bottom fan feeds cool air to the cooler which in turn cools the mb temp sensor, while turning in both front fans pushes too much of the air laterally, starving the cooler of air?

Gonna try upper front + bottom intake and see if that gets the same result.

Using one of the R4 stock fans on the side mount consistently lowers gpu temp by 2-3c, but raises mb temp by a like amount. Using the side fan as exhaust raises gpu temp by 1c on idle with no effect at load, but does this consistently.


----------



## DiGiCiDAL

I think you've already solved your issue - but in general yes... if you have tons of positive pressure generated from different angles then you will have very little 'settling dust' problems... but potentially have hot air congestion in certain areas of the case. In a perfect world, you would have exactly the same amount of intake and exhaust always flowing in the same direction and all heatsinks oriented to maximize the heat exchange as that air flowed through.

This is the way most servers are designed (usually with shields in place to keep the air in the area needed and moving constantly)... unfortunately, depending on the environment and how good the filters are (and how 'open' the case is) this can also cause dust issues in other areas.

The problem is that most intakes have restriction as they are either pulling against filters (like in the R4) or they are pushing against heatsinks... while the exhausts are not. So careful engineering is required to get it all perfect.


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> I have question to ARC XL users
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna install two radiators: EKWB 360 PE (top) and 240 PE (front). Is it a big problem to install this two radiators ?


both will work, but with the 360 you will lose at least one 5.25 bay. more like two depending on your fan config.

I decided to go with two 60mm 280s. one in the top and one in the front.


----------



## tambok2012

page 1000


----------



## Xoomtell

Hi

I´m new here ;-)

Anyone here tried to fit a ASUS P9X79-E WS or other SSI CEB MOBO into a Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl?

I´ve got a Fractal Design Define XL Black Pearl and simply love this case. BUT now I want to upgrade my old i7 920 to a 4930K with a more professioanl MOBO: ASUS P9X79-E WS. The problem is, this MOBO is SSI CEB and the case is ATX and E-ATX...according to Fractal Design the MOBO might fit in, if the mounting holes are placed like on the ATX MOBOs ...

I really need this MOBO because of its many features like 7 PCI-E etc....

Any clues?

thx in advance!









Morten


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo 40*
> 
> both will work, but with the 360 you will lose at least one 5.25 bay. more like two depending on your fan config.
> 
> I decided to go with two 60mm 280s. one in the top and one in the front.


Do you have any photos with this two radiators mounted in case ?


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Do you have any photos with this two radiators mounted in case ?


not yet. I'll be ordering the first radiator in a week or so, as I'm trying to buy the big pieces a bit at a time and I've only bought the case, the reservoir and a few odds and ends so far.. I'll post a picture then.

but based on my measurements, reviews, and pictures, they will fit just fine since the top is offset, and the bottom drive cage moved to the center of the case.


----------



## kilo 40

and I painted the drive bays and the slot covers red. not the best paint job at all, but it will pass.


----------



## FendahFlex

hi guys ive been silently lurking on this thread for a while now, and ive seen some of the best looking rigs. and so finally i got my own fractal design arc mini R2 and would like to mod paint it on white, the problem is, i cant really decide if i would make it completely white or just paint some portions of it. like the front and top panels??

i know this is kind of a personal preference thinggy but any inputs will be much appreciated thanks in advance










sorry for my MS paint skills XD


looking forward on becoming a member of this wonderful club


----------



## nickt1862

Question: What is the door made of (other than the soundproofing on the inside) on the Define R4 and R2 XL cases?

Also, do any of you know if the White color on any of the white cases fade to a yellowish or not?

Thanks


----------



## a11an

I checked the R4 in a local store. The door is made of thin plastic and feels very flimsy if you open and close it.


----------



## Scorpion667

Can anyone confirm if Alphacool UT45/UT60/MONSTA 280mm rad fits in Arc Midi R2 front bay? Worried that the optical bay might be too close, and I don't wish to remove it.

[edit] nvm confirmed it fits here


----------



## ThumperSD

Can I use a dust filter for every case fan on the R4? The case doesnt come with any filters but I really want to minimize dust a much as possible.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> Can I use a dust filter for every case fan on the R4? The case doesnt come with any filters but I really want to minimize dust a much as possible.


half the case (bottom and front) is filtered, the rest is designed to push air out, so in theory there's no reason to add more filters


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> I checked the R4 in a local store. The door is made of thin plastic and feels very flimsy if you open and close it.


Thanks for your response.

That's not too good if the door is thin and flimsy = not a good longevity thing and just a matter of time till a crack will appear somewhere on that door and or hinges.

I've seen a Corsair 550D (which also has a front door) at a store and it doesn't look too durable at the hinge area though the door seemed okay imho. I wonder if it's worth even seeking such a case as I do use the optical drives enough to warrant to be concerned about a case front door durability.


----------



## taem

I don't find the R4 door flimsy feeling at all. Yeah it's plastic but the sound deadening material backing it gives it a reassuring thickness. Swing action is nice and smooth, the magnet retention means no stress from plastic clips that have to bend all the time. I think the solid steel construction in the rest of the case might make the front door feel flimsier than it is by comparison.


----------



## athlon 64

LOL. The R4 is everything but flimzy. You could kill a man with it's damn sidepannel. It's a tank


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I don't find the R4 door flimsy feeling at all. Yeah it's plastic but the sound deadening material backing it gives it a reassuring thickness. Swing action is nice and smooth, the magnet retention means no stress from plastic clips that have to bend all the time. I think the solid steel construction in the rest of the case might make the front door feel flimsier than it is by comparison.


The only two things about these line of cases is that Fractal decided that an extra led for the HDD isn't warranted, yeah sure I know that I can use the power led for that but most cases already have both. Also that the door swings only one way, what if I want to place my computer case to my right?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *athlon 64*
> 
> LOL. The R4 is everything but flimzy. You could kill a man with it's damn sidepannel. It's a tank


Is there a video?


----------



## oshu

Found this on my phone, from my rebuild few weeks back...


----------



## eBombzor

How do you guys mount 140mm fans on the front of the R4 without any tools to remove the pegs?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> How do you guys mount 140mm fans on the front of the R4 without any tools to remove the pegs?


? You just push the fans in, the pegs go into the screw holes of a standard 140mm fan.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> ? You just push the fans in, the pegs go into the screw holes of a standard 140mm fan.


Seriously? Oh man maybe I need to stop over thinking.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD*
> 
> Can I use a dust filter for every case fan on the R4? The case doesnt come with any filters but I really want to minimize dust a much as possible.


Like the other guy said the bottom and front come with dust filters.

You can put filters on the side and top, like the Silverstone
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Filter-Cooling-FF143B/dp/B00ARB5E8A/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1385180270&sr=1-4&keywords=silverstone+dust+filter

Or the Demcifilter
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8824/ffi-31/DEMCiflex_140mm_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_-_Black_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s1024

Demci also sells a rectangular 140mm x 2 that will cover both fan mounts on top, vs using two 140mm filters
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16884/ffi-121/DEMCiflex_Dual_140mm_Magnetic_Dust_Fan_Filter_-_Dual_Radiator_or_Fans_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s1024

The only place where it's hard to put a filter is the rear fan mount, the honeycomb mesh grill extends out a bit. The magnetic filters will stick on there but it looks bad. Plus there's no point, this is an exhaust and there's a mesh right above it too, on top of bring vertical.


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if Alphacool UT45/UT60/MONSTA 280mm rad fits in Arc Midi R2 front bay? Worried that the optical bay might be too close, and I don't wish to remove it.
> 
> [edit] nvm confirmed it fits here







top 60mm push/pull
front 60mm push/pull


----------



## sendjes

Hi.

Is there anywhere to buy a left sidepanel for the Define Mini other than at Fractals sparepart site, preferably in the EU? Cause they have a timeframe around 3-5 weeks.

Reason for my question, I'm sick and tired of moduvents, to me they are the most ugly thing ever created by Fractal, and yes yes, I know how they work, and what they are good for, but I'm huge fan of the clean look, and the moduvent grills ruin that for me, so I want to replace the moduvented sidepanel with another left sidepanl.

I love Fractal cases, but not the moduvents.


----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> The only two things about these line of cases is that Fractal decided that an extra led for the HDD isn't warranted, yeah sure I know that I can use the power led for that but most cases already have both. Also that the door swings only one way, what if I want to place my computer case to my right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a video?


If you daon´t use your DVD drive often or at all, than I think it wont be a Problem at all.

And YES IT IS A TANK!




It is SHOTGUN prove....


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*
> 
> The only two things about these line of cases is that Fractal decided that an extra led for the HDD isn't warranted, yeah sure I know that I can use the power led for that but most cases already have both. Also that the door swings only one way, what if I want to place my computer case to my right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a video?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you daon´t use your DVD drive often or at all, than I think it wont be a Problem at all.
> 
> And YES IT IS A TANK!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is SHOTGUN prove....
Click to expand...

LOL! Never actually thought they'd be a video. Thanks for posting it!









To the fractal marketing rep in the video: "I dare you to do this to a Define series front door". lol!


----------



## Anoxy

Got the RX360 installed!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Got the RX360 installed!


Looks good, I would remove the rear fan completely. Not really needed to exhaust anything, as being blocked mostly from rad, which could increase noise.


----------



## Anoxy

You think? I have both rads set to intake, so I wanted at least one fan to pull some of that out.

I guess I'll try both ways once I get it booted up to see which works best.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Got the RX360 installed!


What are you trying to keep cool with this thing a nuclear reactor. Looks good but wow.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Got the RX360 installed!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can I see the top cutout you made for the 360?

Also, how are you planning on controlling your fans? They look like AP-15's which are 3 pin

I thought about using a thick 360 in my Arc Midi but then I lose the fan controller =(


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> Can I see the top cutout you made for the 360?
> 
> Also, how are you planning on controlling your fans? They look like AP-15's which are 3 pin
> 
> I thought about using a thick 360 in my Arc Midi but then I lose the fan controller =(


I posted a pic in my build log, link in my sig. Be warned though, it's pretty shoddy, but I don't think it will negatively impact performance that much. My drill and drill skills aren't so great haha.

As for the fan controller, there is still enough room to fit my Bitfenix Recon, I'm just going to jimmy rig it in there somehow, possibly with zip ties, or I might drill holes and try to mount it.


----------



## Scorpion667

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I posted a pic in my build log, link in my sig. Be warned though, it's pretty shoddy, but I don't think it will negatively impact performance that much. My drill and drill skills aren't so great haha.
> 
> As for the fan controller, there is still enough room to fit my Bitfenix Recon, I'm just going to jimmy rig it in there somehow, possibly with zip ties, or I might drill holes and try to mount it.


Not bad still, I like it better then cutting a big square which takes away from structural rigidity.

How do you keep the drill bits from moving around once you start the hole?

I might have to bite your style on this one lol

I'm gonna see if its possible to cut my NZXT Sentry Mix fan controller a little shorter to make it fit in that to bay somehow... or maybe mount it in the case


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Looks good, I would remove the rear fan completely. Not really needed to exhaust anything, as being blocked mostly from rad, which could increase noise.


I second this. But looks beast so far, nice job!


----------



## Jflisk

Just so you guys know 4 1/2 drill bit = 120 MM fan and a 5 1/2 Drill bit (available Home Depot / Lowes) = 140 MM fan . The drill bit is held in place by a pilot bit in the middle of the bigger bit. Been here done this. Thanks

Printable templates are available here

http://mnpctech.com/pc-cooling-fan-templates.html


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> What are you trying to keep cool with this thing a nuclear reactor. Looks good but wow.


Haha thanks. The OCN water cooling geeks had me convinced that anything less wouldn't be sufficient for my over clocked 780s and 3570k. And I plan on flashing a custom BIOS on the 780s so it will be nice to have the extra cooling capacity.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Haha thanks. The OCN water cooling geeks had me convinced that anything less wouldn't be sufficient for my over clocked 780s and 3570k. And I plan on flashing a custom BIOS on the 780s so it will be nice to have the extra cooling capacity.


I keep 7990+7970(450W and 400W) and FX 9590 (220W) under 51C all times(under full load Crysis 3 or BF4) with 2x240 and 1x120 Radiators. What pump and res are you throwing into your loop.I would highly suggest something built around the Laing D-5 has the highest out put from what I read.I have one in my loop can hardly tell its there. A little more expensive then most but keeps the water moving.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I keep 7990+7970(450W and 400W) and FX 9590 (220W) under 51C all times(under full load Crysis 3 or BF4) with 2x240 and 1x120 Radiators. What pump and res are you throwing into your loop.I would highly suggest something built around the Laing D-5 has the highest out put from what I read.I have one in my loop can hardly tell its there. A little more expensive then most but keeps the water moving.


Yeah I'd like it to be as silent as possible so the more rad the better. The Monsta should help a bit too up front.

My pump is the MCP655-Drive from Swiftech, with an XSPC tank res. It seems to be a highly regarded pump so I think I'm good to go there.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Haha thanks. The OCN water cooling geeks had me convinced that anything less wouldn't be sufficient for my over clocked 780s and 3570k. And I plan on flashing a custom BIOS on the 780s so it will be nice to have the extra cooling capacity.


Anoxy what does your side door look like on your case is it the standard black metal one 140mm hole. I took mine and added 4 extra 120MM fan holes to it. 2 on the bottom for retro fitted radiator fans(my R1 define XL has the old split level design) and 2 at the top below my upper radiator for cold air intake directly into the radiators you might want to consider it or keep it in mind. I cut 6C off by adding them.Also added silverstone filters to keep the dust out and to cover any imperfections from the drilling of the holes. Thanks


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Anoxy what does your side door look like on your case is it the standard black metal one 140mm hole. I took mine and added 4 extra 120MM fan holes to it. 2 on the bottom for retro fitted radiator fans(my R1 define XL has the old split level design) and 2 at the top below my upper radiator for cold air intake directly into the radiators you might want to consider it or keep it in mind. I cut 6C off by adding them.Also added silverstone filters to keep the dust out and to cover any imperfections from the drilling of the holes. Thanks


No, I have the smoked window panel. Are you saying you fitted fans to the outside of the panel or the inside?

I have both of my rads set to intake, so I don't think they would benefit from intake fans blowing more air at them. I didn't have any dust problems before with this fan configuration, but the Arc Midi is pretty well covered with filters....though I have read about people increasing performance by removing the stock foam filters and replacing them with steel mesh instead. Might look into that later.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> No, I have the smoked window panel. Are you saying you fitted fans to the outside of the panel or the inside?
> 
> I have both of my rads set to intake, so I don't think they would benefit from intake fans blowing more air at them. I didn't have any dust problems before with this fan configuration, but the Arc Midi is pretty well covered with filters....though I have read about people increasing performance by removing the stock foam filters and replacing them with steel mesh instead. Might look into that later.


You can see where my bottom radiator and Fans are. I had to Drill fan holes for the fans and radiator.


----------



## lurker2501

Where can I can a proprietary aftermarket USB 3 front panel cable for an ARC MIDI?


----------



## aidhanc

Received my Define R4 Titanium today


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Where can I can a proprietary aftermarket USB 3 front panel cable for an ARC MIDI?


You can search on Frozen CPU. Not sure what the cable looks like but they might have something for you.

http://www.frozencpu.com/


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Nope.
> 
> The Arc Midi is roughly the same size as the Define R4.
> 
> The Arc Mini is roughly the same size as the Define Mini.
> 
> As far as I know they don't make a windowed panel that fit's the Mini series.
> 
> Except the Mini R2 but I don't think that is sold separately.


Ok I emailed Fractal Design about this. The Mini R2 fits the define and very soon it will be sold separately on their webstore in the spare parts section

So those who have a Design Define Mini can have a window without using a dremel









https://support.fractal-design.com/support/solutions/articles/143046-are-the-windowed-side-panels-for-the-arc-series-cases-and-the-define-series-cases-interchangeable-


----------



## coolhandluke41

I'm loving this case









http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/media/IMG_0017_zps0d275f19.jpg.htmlhttp://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/media/IMG_0016_zps7a69a830.jpg.html

Build Log in my sig

I need your help guys ..this build is almost completed except I lost two plastic covers







,anyone knows where I can get the replacement ??

http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/media/rem_zps4869eefe.jpg.html


----------



## passinos

On the R4 the SSD are mounted behind the Motherboard. Anyone know where to get L brackets to install making it easier to swap SSDs without pulling MB?

Thanks


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I need your help guys ..this build is almost completed except I lost two plastic covers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,anyone knows where I can get the replacement ??
> 
> http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/media/rem_zps4869eefe.jpg.html


Just email Fractal and tell them you lost em. Hands down the best customer service I've gotten. I messed up my front panel trying to mod it, and I was even out of warranty, but still send me a new one.

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I need your help guys ..this build is almost completed except I lost two plastic covers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,anyone knows where I can get the replacement ??
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> Just email Fractal and tell them you lost em. Hands down the best customer service I've gotten. I messed up my front panel trying to mod it, and I was even out of warranty, but still send me a new one.
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us
Click to expand...

Thanks Ze,will do


----------



## ZeVo

Anytime.









Really nice build, by the way. Did you cut mesh from the case and stick it on the side of the 5.25 bays? Or am I just seeing things?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Anytime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really nice build, by the way. Did you cut mesh from the case and stick it on the side of the 5.25 bays? Or am I just seeing things?


sorry for the late response ,I made the cover for 5.25 bay and unused PCI slots
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9TKHI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> sorry for the late response ,I made the cover for 5.25 bay and unused PCI slots
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9TKHI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Ahh I see now. And it's no biggie, was just curious.


----------



## gamingharald

Hello!
This is the start of my bould. I am using a fractal design define r4, and i have only installed the ssd. What do you think so far?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> On the R4 the SSD are mounted behind the Motherboard. Anyone know where to get L brackets to install making it easier to swap SSDs without pulling MB?
> 
> Thanks


You can make some aluminum brackets pretty easily or just use some velcro strips even.


----------



## passinos

ahhh yes, Velcro. Splended idea. Rep 2 U


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> On the R4 the SSD are mounted behind the Motherboard. Anyone know where to get L brackets to install making it easier to swap SSDs without pulling MB?
> 
> Thanks


Why would you need to pull the MB? Just remove the sidepanel.
And you can put SSD almost anywhere you want using rubber bands, duct tape, chewing gum or velcro


----------



## Mysticode

Pretty sure you need to pull the mobo as the screws for mounting are on the inside of the plate, not the outside facing the sidepanel. I can see where his question came from.


----------



## MiiX

Double sided tape


----------



## 17jotinha




----------



## DJKAY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice work mate, I really like the "full size" window.
How do you mount it to the case?

Tripple Slot DCII´s are always awesome!









Maybe get some sleeving going on which would give your build the last touch...

BTW: how do your fans on the H100 perform?
They don´t look really preassure optimized thought...


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJKAY*
> 
> Nice work mate, I really like the "full size" window.
> How do you mount it to the case?
> 
> Tripple Slot DCII´s are always awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe get some sleeving going on which would give your build the last touch...
> 
> BTW: how do your fans on the H100 perform?
> They don´t look really preassure optimized thought...


Thanks DJKAY

Mounted with 6 small black screws.

Results for BF3 1h 4.3Ghz CPU ...


----------



## passinos

correct, but someone posted they made long L-Brackets to make SDD swaps easier. Using the bottom on the L to install through back of MB and the Sides of the L to swap HDs.

I will probably just use Double-Sided tape or Velcro like everyone suggested.

Thanks All


----------



## Malik

Arc XL in action


----------



## 17jotinha

Impec, TOP, good job


----------



## X-oiL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Arc XL in action
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good job! What tubing are you gonna use?


----------



## Malik

Tygon R3603 10/16mm


----------



## adi518

Hehe... Malik, why not remove drive bay for larger rad?


----------



## coolhandluke41

EL Impacto-Haze
http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/slideshow/El%20Impacto-Haze/El%20Impacto-Haze%202


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hehe... Malik, why not remove drive bay for larger rad?


There will be two ssd and one hdd... and aquaero 5


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Hello new member and owner of the xl2.
Just bought and build it today.
Mobo is gigabyte 970-ud3
Cpu amd 4 quare phenom 2.
Gpu xfx 6870.
Psu coolermaster 520 watt
10x wd ecogreen 2TB.
1x ocz vertex3 64GB ssd.
Will try to post pics some later time.
I just found out that cable management is a b***h.
Still pretty satisfied with the room to built it.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikkeenjij36*
> 
> Hello new member and owner of the xl2.
> Just bought and build it today.
> Mobo is gigabyte 970-ud3
> Cpu amd 4 quare phenom 2.
> Gpu xfx 6870.
> Psu coolermaster 520 watt
> 10x wd ecogreen 2TB.
> 1x ocz vertex3 64GB ssd.
> Will try to post pics some later time.
> I just found out that cable management is a b***h.
> Still pretty satisfied with the room to built it.


Is that the Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 520 you have?

Welcome to OCN by the way


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> EL Impacto-Haze
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/slideshow/El%20Impacto-Haze/El%20Impacto-Haze%202


Wow, and I thought my Arc Midi was packed! That's crazy.


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Is that the Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 520 you have?
> 
> Welcome to OCN by the way


Yes indeed that's the one.
I need some extra juice to keep all the stuff running.
Currently using it as an media server/nas to keep everyone happy here in the house.
Later planning to add 2 xtra 4TB wd red and an xtra ssd to run as a seperate htpc so i have 2 different system in one and the same case


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikkeenjij36*
> 
> Yes indeed that's the one.
> I need some extra juice to keep all the stuff running.
> Currently using it as an media server/nas to keep everyone happy here in the house.
> Later planning to add 2 xtra 4TB wd red and an xtra ssd to run as a seperate htpc so i have 2 different system in one and the same case


Well i dont want to be rude or anything so dont take it that way

But its not really not that good a PSU

The OEM that made it is called Seventeam and they are very well known for making crappy PSU´s

Just wanted to tell you that your weakest part in your PC is your PSU

Hope you are not offended or anything i did not mean to be rude


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Well i dont want to be rude or anything so dont take it that way
> 
> But its not really not that good a PSU
> 
> The OEM that made it is called Seventeam and they are very well known for making crappy PSU´s
> 
> Just wanted to tell you that your weakest part in your PC is your PSU
> 
> Hope you are not offended or anything i did not mean to be rude


Off course i'm not ofended and youre not rude at all.
And thanks for the welcome.
The cm psu is running now for 4 years stable now and not had anny issues at all,maybe i'm lucky.
Can you maybe give some advice for another psu then?
Cause in the not so far future i am gonna add those xtra hdd's and ssd and don't wanna run out of power of course


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikkeenjij36*
> 
> Off course i'm not ofended and youre not rude at all.
> And thanks for the welcome.
> The cm psu is running now for 4 years stable now and not had anny issues at all,maybe i'm lucky.
> Can you maybe give some advice for another psu then?
> Cause in the not so far future i am gonna add those xtra hdd's and ssd and don't wanna run out of power of course


Sure where are you from? what do you want to power? and what can you spend?


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Hi i'm from the netherlands and i've got around 100 euro to spend on new psu.


----------



## passinos

Malik, You running 2x 780's + 4670k off a H220+240mm rad?

I am planning similar with 280mm rad


----------



## ZippyPinhead

Just joined the club. Earlier today pulled the trigger on an Arc Midi R2. $49 shipped on Newegg.........can't beat that logic. Hope the case is worth it. Was looking for a simple/classy looking case for a new Matx build featuring 2 gpu's, 4 ssd's, a slim BD player and 3 radiators.


----------



## ds84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyPinhead*
> 
> Just joined the club. Earlier today pulled the trigger on an Arc Midi R2. $49 shipped on Newegg.........can't beat that logic. Hope the case is worth it. Was looking for a simple/classy looking case for a new Matx build featuring 2 gpu's, 4 ssd's, a slim BD player and 3 radiators.


I think u can only fit a slim rad with fans at the front only... Otherwise you gonna have to remove the hdd cage as well.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyPinhead*
> 
> Just joined the club. Earlier today pulled the trigger on an Arc Midi R2. $49 shipped on Newegg.........can't beat that logic. Hope the case is worth it. Was looking for a simple/classy looking case for a new Matx build featuring 2 gpu's, 4 ssd's, a slim BD player and 3 radiators.


Why mATX? And where are you putting three rads? Front, top, and bottom or?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyPinhead*
> 
> Just joined the club. Earlier today pulled the trigger on an Arc Midi R2. $49 shipped on Newegg.........can't beat that logic. Hope the case is worth it. Was looking for a simple/classy looking case for a new Matx build featuring 2 gpu's, 4 ssd's, a slim BD player and 3 radiators.


You could get the Arc Mini R2 instead and you can get a 360 rad on top instead and 240 in front.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZippyPinhead*
> 
> I think u can only fit a slim rad with fans at the front only... Otherwise you gonna have to remove the hdd cage as well.
> 
> 
> 
> You can fit 60mm 240 rad in front/top in push/pull. The HD cage would have to be removed.
Click to expand...


----------



## Anoxy

This is cool and all, but how do you think it's controlling 10 fans?


----------



## ZippyPinhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ds84*
> 
> I think u can only fit a slim rad with fans at the front only... Otherwise you gonna have to remove the hdd cage as well.


Ill be removing all the HD cages up front. Remember I got the Midi case, not the mini.

From what I understand this case can fit 3 rads.


----------



## ZippyPinhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Why mATX? And where are you putting three rads? Front, top, and bottom or?


Few reasons.

A. Compact
B. Price
C. Features I need

I'll be installing the ASROCK z87m OC Formula into this case. Will be running a pair of 290's. Start off with one, then as funds permit will grab a second. These will also be liquid cooled.

The Rads will go into:

A. THe top, either a single 140mm or a 240mm sucking air IN.

B. Front, again either a 140mm single or 240mm also sucking air IN.

C. Bottom. 120 or 140mm also sucking air IN.

The rear 120/140mm fan will be the lone exhaust fan. Positive pressure setup using all the intake filters to their advantage.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyPinhead*
> 
> Few reasons.
> 
> A. Compact
> B. Price
> C. Features I need
> 
> I'll be installing the ASROCK z87m OC Formula into this case. Will be running a pair of 290's. Start off with one, then as funds permit will grab a second. These will also be liquid cooled.
> 
> The Rads will go into:
> 
> A. THe top, either a single 140mm or a 240mm sucking air IN.
> 
> B. Front, again either a 140mm single or 240mm also sucking air IN.
> 
> C. Bottom. 120 or 140mm also sucking air IN.
> 
> The rear 120/140mm fan will be the lone exhaust fan. Positive pressure setup using all the intake filters to their advantage.


If running 2x 290 you want 240 on top and front at minimum. 140 on bottom only if PSU is no longer than 160mm.
If you went with Mini R2 then a 360 on top and 240 in front would work too.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If running 2x 290 you want 240 on top and front at minimum. 140 on bottom only if PSU is no longer than 160mm.
> If you went with Mini R2 then a 360 on top and 240 in front would work too.


You can do that in a Midi R2 as well


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If running 2x 290 you want 240 on top and front at minimum. 140 on bottom only if PSU is no longer than 160mm.
> If you went with Mini R2 then a 360 on top and 240 in front would work too.
> 
> 
> 
> You can do that in a Midi R2 as well
Click to expand...

Yes I know, Mini R2 can do it without modding.


----------



## ikkeenjij36

As promised some foto's of my build,not really modded but i am pretty satisfied with all the stuff i have in.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikkeenjij36*
> 
> Hi i'm from the netherlands and i've got around 100 euro to spend on new psu.


Cooler Master V550S

Its a brand new series and its nothing like any CM PSU before it this one is damm good

If you cant find that one Seasonic G series is the next best thing

Are those over 100 euros?


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Just looked for it and it's just 89.90 euro's so in price range
Makes it so much difference between these then?


----------



## catbuster

Some1 please make tutorial how to make full size window for r4 and how to mount it


----------



## ZippyPinhead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If running 2x 290 you want 240 on top and front at minimum. 140 on bottom only if PSU is no longer than 160mm.
> If you went with Mini R2 then a 360 on top and 240 in front would work too.


Yep my PSU is only 160mm(XFX 850w BEFX)so I can fit a small rad on the bottom.

Question is how big of a rad can I fit in the front and up top without having to remove the ODD drive bays? Those need to stay, that's where my BD ROM and 2.5" SSD's are going.

So whats the total length available in front and up top?


----------



## steelkevin

Hi guys,

I finally got around to topping off my reservoir which was almost empty since I added my R9 290 to the loop about a week ago. My loop is now complete, the only updates that I'll be doing for, hopefully, the next year, will be replacing the rear FD Fan and the two Yate Loons by three more Akasa Apache fans. The PSU is loud when mining so that'll probably be swapped out whenever I can too. I'll probably eventually get rid of all the random fittings and replace them by black matte Bitspowers or whatever, might even end up finally getting 10/13mm ones with that magic plasticizer free tubing. Anyway here you go







:





Spoiler: Warning: MORE PICTURES !














PS: just copied over my post from the water cooling club as I didn't feel anything needed to be added for this particular club







. Oh wait, actually... I'll have to add white LEDs or clod cathodes too because of the silly smoked window the R2 comes with.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Yes I know, Mini R2 can do it without modding.


So the ODD bay in the Mini R2 can be removed and put back in? No drilling involved?

Now I kinda wanna switch to mATX...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyPinhead*
> 
> Question is how big of a rad can I fit in the front and up top without having to remove the ODD drive bays? Those need to stay, that's where my BD ROM and 2.5" SSD's are going.
> 
> So whats the total length available in front and up top?


Had a typo, bottom 120mm rad only if the PSU is 160mm.
You do not need to remove the ODD bay at all. The HDD cages will have to go if you want a rad on the front. There is no room with the cages installed.
You can move the HDD cage over where the bottom fan is, and you can fit a 240 rad in front. You can do 60mm thick in Push/Pull for the front. 60mm on top with one set of fans, but you can go with 45mm with push/pull on top.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So the ODD bay in the Mini R2 can be removed and put back in? No drilling involved?
> 
> Now I kinda wanna switch to mATX...


They are screwed in. No rivets. Plus it has proper 2x SSD mounting bracket the in the back.


----------



## eBombzor

Does anyone know if the Noctua NF-AF15s can mount onto the rear exhaust of the R4 and onto the bottom fan placement next to the PSU?


----------



## gamingharald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Arc XL in action


Hey Malik!
How to you take your awesome foto's?


----------



## gamingharald

What is the best gtx 770 for casemod (look cool)? I'l try to have a red theme on my r4.
Please answer.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamingharald*
> 
> What is the best gtx 770 for casemod (look cool)? I'l try to have a red theme on my r4.
> Please answer.


https://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/GTX770DC2OC2GD5/


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamingharald*
> 
> Hey Malik!
> How to you take your awesome foto's?


Simple, i take camera and shoot


----------



## gamingharald

Any filter you use?


----------



## Malik

No, just manual settings and playing with wb, saturation etc.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gamingharald*
> 
> Any filter you use?


No, he just has a really nice camera and knows how to tweak the capture settings









I just cannot justify spending the money on a nice DSLR, since I probably would only use it for taking pics of my pcs, lol


----------



## Rar4f

If you install a 240mm radiator in front of R4 Define, does that stop you from installing two front fans?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> If you install a 240mm radiator in front of R4 Define, does that stop you from installing two front fans?


You have to install fans with the radiator, so no.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> You have to install fans with the radiator, so no.


So you install the radiator behind the fans?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Or in front, or both.
Behind fans is called push, in front is called pull, and both is called push-pull.
The fans draw/blow air through the rad cooling it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

The rad needs to be mounted to the fans for clearance.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No, he just has a really nice camera and knows how to tweak the capture settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just cannot justify spending the money on a nice DSLR, since I probably would only use it for taking pics of my pcs, lol


I dont buy DSLR for pcs pics only. This is maybe 5% of my photo work


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> I dont buy DSLR for pcs pics only. This is maybe 5% of my photo work


Did not mean to imply that you did. Sorry if it came off that way lol.

But yeah, if I did other photowork then I could perhaps justify it...I just don't lol


----------



## gamingharald

Nikon D700 i'l if i am not take wrong


----------



## Rar4f

Thanks Sp33d and Evil


----------



## NYMD

I love my white R4...



Haswell 4770k, 32GB, 1TB SSD, and dual GTX 780s at that point.


----------



## Beatwolf

Looks good, very clean. And 1TB SSD ahh me waaantt


----------



## Anoxy

You should mount those SSDs behind the motherboard and get rid of the HDD trays.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Lost two of my 5.25 bay covers few days ago ..it only took one E-mail to get this resolved
I'm so impressed with Fractal support I'm considering getting Arc XL


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You should mount those SSDs behind the motherboard and get rid of the HDD trays.


Anoxy
Your avatar what is it.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Lost two of my 5.25 bay covers few days ago ..it only took one E-mail to get this resolved
> I'm so impressed with Fractal support I'm considering getting Arc XL
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, I lost the box of screws that came with my case and they shipped me a brand new box for free. Their customer support really is top notch.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Anoxy
> Your avatar what is it.


It's Finn from Adventure Time


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Yeah, I lost the box of screws that came with my case and they shipped me a brand new box for free. Their customer support really is top notch.
> It's Finn from Adventure Time


I had to look it up on the internet looks like a cool show. Ill have to check it out have not watched the cartoon network in awhile.


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You should mount those SSDs behind the motherboard and get rid of the HDD trays.


Great advice and I already moved them







I put an Icy Dock 4 bay in a 5.25" slot and now my OS SSDs sit in there. The front of the case is now unobstructed since I tried to shove 3 GPUs in it (somewhat successfully)...


----------



## SeahawkCustom

picture of my Fractal Design arc midi R2 case I modded the top to fit a alphacool 420 45 mm rad.and the
front has a alphacool 240 60mm rad im just getting started on this build I have lots of modding to do here just few pic of it
theme will be black & blue with all EK wb and EK & bitspower fittings with E22 hard tubing.

IMAG0225.jpg 545k .jpg file
.

IMAG0228.jpg 574k .jpg file


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeahawkCustom*
> 
> picture of my Fractal Design arc midi R2 case I modded the top to fit a alphacool 420 45 mm rad.and the
> front has a alphacool 240 60mm rad im just getting started on this build I have lots of modding to do here just few pic of it
> theme will be black & blue with all EK wb and EK & bitspower fittings with E22 hard tubing.
> 
> IMAG0225.jpg 545k .jpg file
> .
> 
> IMAG0228.jpg 574k .jpg file


420 up top? Can't wait to see how it turns out!


----------



## OTHG_ChefTreb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> Lost two of my 5.25 bay covers few days ago ..it only took one E-mail to get this resolved
> I'm so impressed with Fractal support I'm considering getting Arc XL


That's great to hear! Just received my Arc Midi R2. When I pulled it out of the box I noticed the front dust filter/mesh was eschewed. Upon further investigation I found that one of the mechanisms that lock the mesh in place wouldn't lock. I sent an email immediately. waiting for a response.

It looks like the locking mechanism will pop out of the front bezel with just a little pinch on the back side, or would they send me a new bezel? Maybe with the fan in place so I get an extra, lol.


----------



## hfcobra

So I'm thinking about getting either an Arc Midi R2 or Arc XL. What are some pros and cons for either case? I can't seem to decide between the two at all. They both offer fantastic water cooling and I don't plan to get more than dual SLI, but I just can't decide.







I plan to put top notch components in the case so I want the perfect case. The problem is that they both seem perfect and I can't decide. Any pros or cons that one case has over the other?

Thanks!


----------



## boy005

can anyone confirm if the window side panel of arc r2 mini fit on define mini? or give me a right dimensions of the side panel define mini... thx


----------



## Anoxy

I love my Arc Midi R2, but I feel like they could have offered a little more space for cable clearance behind the mobo tray. I'm finding it very difficult to cram my cables back there without the side panel having to bend a little.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boy005*
> 
> can anyone confirm if the window side panel of arc r2 mini fit on define mini? or give me a right dimensions of the side panel define mini... thx


From the Fractal website:
Define Mini = 210 x 395 x 490
Arc Mini R2 = 210 x 405 x 484

Going off that, I don't think the panels would be interchangeable.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I love my Arc Midi R2, but I feel like they could have offered a little more space for cable clearance behind the mobo tray. I'm finding it very difficult to cram my cables back there without the side panel having to bend a little.


I need both hands and knees to close mine so I understand what you mean xD


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> I need both hands and knees to close mine so I understand what you mean xD


Haha right!? For me, it's mostly because the PCI-E cables from my 780s are fairly short so right when they get through the rubber grommet, they have to be immediately bent and then routed through the bottom rubber grommet to the PSU. Horribly bulky. Oh well, at least the front looks extremely clean /firstworldproblems.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Do you need 4x ODD bays or have a mobo with 9 PCI slots? If you do need both, then the Arc XL will fit for what you need.
If not, the Arc Midi R2 is more than enough.
As for cooling, they are both the same.


----------



## s1m0n

Anyone from Europe that had to do RMA for a case ?

Just got the XL R2, the front panel clips and the panel frame are both broken and the case is useless without it's front panel








How long do they need to send me a new front panel replacement for the case so I can replace it? The shop where I bought it wanted the whole case back (that would not be cheap for me to send the 17kg box to them).

Opened a ticket on Fractal Desing support and they said that they will send me a new panel after they get my case serial and a proof of purchase. Can't build my system untill I get the front panel replaced


----------



## boy005

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I love my Arc Midi R2, but I feel like they could have offered a little more space for cable clearance behind the mobo tray. I'm finding it very difficult to cram my cables back there without the side panel having to bend a little.
> From the Fractal website:
> Define Mini = 210 x 395 x 490
> Arc Mini R2 = 210 x 405 x 484
> 
> Going off that, I don't think the panels would be interchangeable.


because small measure differences ("look" of the case), maybe will fit...because of that, i need accurate measures os side panel...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Have you contacted Fractal directly?


----------



## Rar4f

Got my R4 Define today


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> You should mount those SSDs behind the motherboard and get rid of the HDD trays.


Just check which side has the mounting holes, and how your psu sata power cables are shaped. I had to buy a sata power extension cable because the Crucial m500 power port would not allow the XFX black psu's cable to fit with the ssd mounted flat like that.


----------



## GeneralA6

Hey guys i was wandering if this kind of setup could work or even improve temperature
The idea is to "split the case into two parts" with the GPU and the Upper drive base while you rotate the drive base so it's back is facing the front of the case


























any ideas or suggestions?
can anyone try it?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Which case you have and what is all that you have in there?
As all of those are not good at all.


----------



## taem

Been meaning to post this for a while, NYMD's post here http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/10100_100#post_21313989 answers this but I'll add this also.

It was asked several time in this thread, but never definitively answered, whether a side fan would fit with the D14 in a Define R4. It will: a 140mm side fan will fit in a Define R4 with a Noctua NH D14.





On the topic of spacing I'll toss this in there too, here is how a modular PSU with 160mm depth looks with a 140mm bottom fan mounted:


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Been meaning to post this for a while, NYMD's post here http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/10100_100#post_21313989 answers this but I'll add this also.
> 
> It was asked several time in this thread, but never definitively answered, whether a side fan would fit with the D14 in a Define R4. It will: a 140mm side fan will fit in a Define R4 with a Noctua NH D14.


I never realized it was such a tight fit!


----------



## filphil

Hey all.

Looking to get in to water cooling my Arc Midi R2 and have a question regarding radiator fitment. I'm looking to get a xspc d5 kit and am aiming for this by the end the build. I'm not sure if there will be enough room to fit a 240mm radiator on top and a 120mm radiator in the rear while keeping it all within the case. Has anyone seen someone do this with this case or could point me in the right direction?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

If you have a rad on top, no rad will be in the rear. You can add one in the bottom instead or just ran 2x 240 which most times is enough.
That will vary on which rad you will pick (can use thick rads in front and top) and what components are used in your system.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Just check which side has the mounting holes, and how your psu sata power cables are shaped. I had to buy a sata power extension cable because the Crucial m500 power port would not allow the XFX black psu's cable to fit with the ssd mounted flat like that.


Yep, this is what I used for my two SSDs.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PYO2SATA-Power-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B002N2EHVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386387445&sr=8-1&keywords=sata+power+splitter


----------



## ZeVo

Heya guys.

So I haven't tinkered with my computer in a while, so I feel it's the right time to try some little case modding.









I really wanna remove the bottom hard drive cage on my R1 Midi, but the only problem is I wouldn't know where to put my 3.5 HDD. Maybe in the top 5.25 bay with that included adapter? Or maybe buy a better adapter with some anti vibration and possibly a fan to cool it?


----------



## Malik

ARC XL in action


----------



## Rar4f

^ I got a Mid tower R4 Define, and it´s already 6-8 times bigger than my previous desktop pc.
Then again it will be vastly better








I thought i had received a R4 Define XL when i saw the case.

XL must be huge lol.


----------



## Malik

Arc Mini R2 vs Arc XL


----------



## Rar4f

Mother of god O _o


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> ARC XL in action


Thanks
P.S. what size mobo is that ?,I was planing to stack up two PSU's ,one on top of the other + R4G in SLI ..will it fit ?

wyglada bardzo fajnie


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Hi guys just want to ask if someone can give me help to get to the right person or forum how and which parts to ise to get my xfx hdradeon 6870 gpu watercooled,so including parts where to buy and where to install rad and so on in my definexl2.
Any suggestions will be apprecriated.
You can also pm me and/or send me mail.
Really love to get my pc upgraded everytime i find some time and money.


----------



## Peanuts4

I picked up an Arc Midi R2 it comes with 3 fans I believe. How are they? I'm thinking I'll leave the 1 on the back and pull the front one off and put it on top. Then I'll put my 2 120mm Noctuas on the front. Or do the Fractal fans such and need replacing? Also what's a good 3pin and PWM front fan controller?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> I picked up an Arc Midi R2 it comes with 3 fans I believe. How are they? I'm thinking I'll leave the 1 on the back and pull the front one off and put it on top. Then I'll put my 2 120mm Noctuas on the front. Or do the Fractal fans such and need replacing? Also what's a good 3pin and PWM front fan controller?


The Fractal fans are decent, absolutely silent but don't move a ton of air. I'm still using one of the included ones as an exhaust. I wouldn't hesitate to use the extras I have in another build, but I wouldn't go out and buy more.


----------



## catbuster

lol malik dat rez is fat







love your builds


----------



## Peanuts4

How are the Noctua 140mm? I see a number of people using them on these cases. Curious how much better they are than the Fractal 140mms.


----------



## Lukas026

installed my ZxR tonight and decided I will take a pic of my RIG



and noctua fans are great - I am using 4x NF A14 ULN and 4x NF S12 ULN. All of them with LNA adapters and my AC Accelero on 50%. Loudest thing in my PC is now my WD 1 Caviar Black









Cant compare Noctuas and Fractal ones - I replaced all my fans with Noctua ones the moment my case arrived


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Noctua NF-AF15s can mount onto the rear exhaust of the R4 and onto the bottom fan placement next to the PSU?


They will fit. I'm using NF A15s as exhausts right now, meant to use them on the cooler but the clips won't work.



Will work fine on bottom too, I had the TY 147 there before I moved it to the cooler and that's the same size basically.

Tricky part is the top because the 120mm mounting holes are not centered, they are offset so that if you mount 2 120mm fans they will be side by side. You need an adapter to use the 140mm mounting holes instead. The ones that come with the NF P14 are the best imho, far better than the Bitspower etc funnel style adapters:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> How are the Noctua 140mm? I see a number of people using them on these cases. Curious how much better they are than the Fractal 140mms.


Well the Fractals move no air imho so the Noctuas are better, not that I ever did a test or anything, I just felt the lack of air from the Fractals and used different fans. The Noctuas make a lot more noise though. I use them but I don't think they're the best around, but I do like the 6 year warranty and the accessories they come with and they are pretty good. The discontinued NF P14s are cheap-ish these days ($17 or so at Amazon) and those happen to be my favorite Noctua fans.


----------



## Rar4f

I used 4 of rubber rings on a bottom fan. Is it maybe wiser to use them for motherboard stand offs instead?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I used 4 of rubber rings on a bottom fan. Is it maybe wiser to use them for motherboard stand offs instead?


I use silicon mounts. Like these:



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19479/scr-704/Akasa_Rubber_Anti-Vibration_Fan_Screw_for_Closed_Chassis_Fans_-_20-Pack_AK-MX003.html?tl=g47c111s1260

You can get better prices at places like moddiy, I paid less for my pack, forget where I go them though. Coolerguys? The long ones are for closed mounting holes, there are shorter ones for open mounting hole fans.

Much much easier to install and remove. Noctua fans each come with a set of these.

Do motherboard standoff need rubber rings? I've never done that.


----------



## Rar4f

To late for me to order small stuff now. And no i don't think motherboard needs rubber rings but i thought for myself that it doesn't sound like a bad idea


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> 
> Well the Fractals move no air imho so the Noctuas are better, not that I ever did a test or anything, I just felt the lack of air from the Fractals and used different fans. The Noctuas make a lot more noise though. I use them but I don't think they're the best around, but I do like the 6 year warranty and the accessories they come with and they are pretty good. The discontinued NF P14s are cheap-ish these days ($17 or so at Amazon) and those happen to be my favorite Noctua fans.


Aren't the P14's meant more for cpu coolers and radiators? Do they push a lot of air through the case?


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Tricky part is the top because the 120mm mounting holes are not centered, they are offset so that if you mount 2 120mm fans they will be side by side. You need an adapter to use the 140mm mounting holes instead. The ones that come with the NF P14 are the best imho, far better than the Bitspower etc funnel style adapters:


Thank you finally now I can feel good about ordering them


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lukas026*
> 
> installed my ZxR tonight and decided I will take a pic of my RIG
> 
> 
> 
> and noctua fans are great - I am using 4x NF A14 ULN and 4x NF S12 ULN. All of them with LNA adapters and my AC Accelero on 50%. Loudest thing in my PC is now my WD 1 Caviar Black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant compare Noctuas and Fractal ones - I replaced all my fans with Noctua ones the moment my case arrived


Just like my system 6x Noctua A14 and 2x Noctua P12. I have Accelero on my 670.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Aren't the P14's meant more for cpu coolers and radiators? Do they push a lot of air through the case?


Well my guess is that a fan with a round frame isn't ideal for mounting on a square case fan slot, assuming that the mount is 140mm x 140mm. That's just a guess, I'm assuming that the crescent gaps left in the corners that a square frame fan would cover might result in some sort of air leak. Maybe one of the experts like ehume or doyll could chime in? If my guess is right I would assume these fans are better for exhaust than intake, where those gaps wouldn't matter. (And might even be helpful?) I don't use the NF P14s in the front mounts, I got NF A14 FLXs for those.

But, performance wise, the NF P14s work great for me. I had NZXT FX 140LBs mounted everywhere, those are high performance 2000rpm fans with high static pressure, they are the stock fans for the Kraken water coolers, I replaced those with the Noctuas, including P14s, and got the same temp results. Of the Noctua fans I've tried (P14, P12, A14 FLX, A14 PWM, A15 PWM), the P14 sounds the best. I think it's those vortex control notches Noctua no longer uses on their 140mm fans. You can hear them, but it's a non-intrusive low hum, whereas the other Noctuas when spinning at audible rpms produce more of a throbbing sound. I'm keen on these P14s. I'm seriously thinking about picking some more up before they're all gone, since they're discontinued, and using only these fans everywhere.

I know all the experts are big into the Thermalrights, but the P14 gives me the same temps and sound a LOT better. Not even close, the TY 14xs are so sound intrusive compared to the P14s.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> But, performance wise, the NF P14s work great for me. I had NZXT FX 140LBs mounted everywhere, those are high performance 2000rpm fans with high static pressure, they are the stock fans for the Kraken water coolers, I replaced those with the Noctuas, including P14s, and got the same temp results. Of the Noctua fans I've tried (P14, P12, A14 FLX, A14 PWM, A15 PWM), the P14 sounds the best. I think it's those vortex control notches Noctua no longer uses on their 140mm fans. You can hear them, but it's a non-intrusive low hum, whereas the other Noctuas when spinning at audible rpms produce more of a throbbing sound. I'm keen on these P14s. I'm seriously thinking about picking some more up before they're all gone, since they're discontinued, and using only these fans everywhere.
> 
> I know all the experts are big into the Thermalrights, but the P14 gives me the same temps and sound a LOT better. Not even close, the TY 14xs are so sound intrusive compared to the P14s.


This is practically the conclusion you can draw from the SPCR First 140 mm Fan Roundup: Noctua, Phanteks, Xigmatek, but the Phantek 140s came better and so in the Second 140 mm Fan Roundup: Antec, bequiet!, Corsair, Scythe the antec 140s came as the winners over the P14, i had a chance to play with one on a NH-D14 and its a great fan, but personally i just move on to PWM fans all around, and noctuas NF-A14 and NF-A15 PWM simply have the best range of control in the market for 140s, they might not be as pleasing on sonic tone as the P14, the phanteks or antec, but all of those are 3pin, and i would have to mod so much to get the same settings that i have including going into a Asus or search for a one that will work with Speedfan..... and to me not worth it when MSI and AsRock have such a good pure BIOS PWM fan control.


----------



## heyodee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Just like my system 6x Noctua A14 and 2x Noctua P12. I have Accelero on my 670.


And mine. Using the ULN 140mm
2 front intake
1 side intake
1 bottom intake
1 back exhaust
1 top exhaust


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> This is practically the conclusion you can draw from the SPCR First 140 mm Fan Roundup: Noctua, Phanteks, Xigmatek, but the Phantek 140s came better and so in the Second 140 mm Fan Roundup: Antec, bequiet!, Corsair, Scythe the antec 140s came as the winners over the P14, i had a chance to play with one on a NH-D14 and its a great fan, but personally i just move on to PWM fans all around, and noctuas NF-A14 and NF-A15 PWM simply have the best range of control in the market for 140s, they might not be as pleasing on sonic tone as the P14, the phanteks or antec, but all of those are 3pin, and i would have to mod so much to get the same settings that i have including going into a Asus or search for a one that will work with Speedfan..... and to me not worth it when MSI and AsRock have such a good pure BIOS PWM fan control.


I have absolutely hated the Gigabyte PWN controls in my system I'll tell you that much. Honestly if I could sell my UD4H I would and replace it with a MSI. I think their BIOS are much more user friendly. So I'm looking for a front fan controller for the Arc Midi that has both PWM and 3 pin.


----------



## s1m0n

How good is Fractals support ? Are they sending replacement parts world-wide ?
My XL R2 come with a broken front panel and local shop advised me to contact Fractal Design directly.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1m0n*
> 
> How good is Fractals support ? Are they sending replacement parts world-wide ?
> My XL R2 come with a broken front panel and local shop advised me to contact Fractal Design directly.


They're very good. I have had loads of spares sent out to me.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> This is practically the conclusion you can draw from the SPCR First 140 mm Fan Roundup: Noctua, Phanteks, Xigmatek, but the Phantek 140s came better and so in the Second 140 mm Fan Roundup: Antec, bequiet!, Corsair, Scythe the antec 140s came as the winners over the P14, i had a chance to play with one on a NH-D14 and its a great fan, but personally i just move on to PWM fans all around, and noctuas NF-A14 and NF-A15 PWM simply have the best range of control in the market for 140s, they might not be as pleasing on sonic tone as the P14, the phanteks or antec, but all of those are 3pin, and i would have to mod so much to get the same settings that i have including going into a Asus or search for a one that will work with Speedfan..... and to me not worth it when MSI and AsRock have such a good pure BIOS PWM fan control.


Thanks for that link, so it's not just my imagination, the P14s do in fact have different acoustic characteristics. I'm more inclined that ever to do a full P14 load out on my Define R4.

Re pwm, afaik the Asrock has at most one pwm chassis header, rest are 3 pin. I personally like to have chassis fans on separate headers for independent control and for mixing up fans of different specs. So I don't do the doyll method of daisy chaining off a pwm header. I have found, for example, that the side fan has to be lower rpm than the fronts and bottom, or else it interferes with airflow. I also like the front intakes to spin higher to push past the hdd cages.

Also, 3 pin fan control on my Asus Z87 Pro is excellent. Lowest I can go on the 3 pin Noctuas is about 800rpm, and at that speed they are practically silent. I think MSI uses the same 4 pin voltage control header system for their chassis headers. Asrocks is believe has 3 pin chassis headers other than the one pwm header.

I do use pwm cpu cooler fans. I'm using TY147s for now but I want to put the A15 Pwms there as soon as I can get some appropriate clips, I can't get the D14 stock or Megahalems clips to work with those.

Another advantage of Noctua fans - they draw very little power, you can put several fans on one header. Some fans are very high amperage, like the NZXT FXs at 0.56 amps, Swiftech Helix at 0.45, etc.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Thanks for that link, so it's not just my imagination, the P14s do in fact have different acoustic characteristics. I'm more inclined that ever to do a full P14 load out on my Define R4.


Np, glad to help. I do recommend you read them fully, as SPCR uses the P14 as their reference fan, so you will get a lot of comments between all the fans they tested vs the P14. If i were to go with 140mm 3pin fans i would go with Antec True Quiet 140s if i didnt needed high rpms, specially for the price they are almost half of nocutas P14, according to SPCR they have best tone, including the P14. I didn't go with them out of wanting pure pwm bios fan control, but i had stayed with Asus i would have go with them, but too many things i didn't like on Asus that i moved on and change to BIOS PWM fan control.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Re pwm, afaik the Asrock has at most one pwm chassis header, rest are 3 pin.


Not sure if all, but even AsRock B85 are coming with two true PWM fan headers (Asus is only 1), check the following thread for more info, Quiet gaming setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I personally like to have chassis fans on separate headers for independent control and for mixing up fans of different specs. So I don't do the doyll method of daisy chaining off a pwm header. I have found, for example, that the side fan has to be lower rpm than the fronts and bottom, or else it interferes with airflow. I also like the front intakes to spin higher to push past the hdd cages.


So do I, in my own personal testing, the CPU heatsink fan has a much higher impact than a chassis fan, so i do like to have them separated, MSI (and AsRock) offer two true PWM fan headers, in my setup, i have CPU_FAN1 to the TY150, and the CPU_FAN2 controls all 3 chassis fans, that are also PWM, ala Doyll style with a 4pin PWM splitter (Swiftech 8), I chose 3 in out of having such a restrictive front on the R4, so i can guarantee positive pressure like this, but each to its own, that's just the way i like it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I have found, for example, that the side fan has to be lower rpm than the fronts and bottom, or else it interferes with airflow. I also like the front intakes to spin higher to push past the hdd cages.


I cant say much here as i dont use side vents, i prefer to leave the moduvent on so less spots for noise to get out, i only used the ones that were open already. On the hdd cages i cant say much either as i dont use them, i took them out to have less restrictive airflow and less turbulence on the fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Also, 3 pin fan control on my Asus Z87 Pro is excellent. Lowest I can go on the 3 pin Noctuas is about 800rpm, and at that speed they are practically silent. I think MSI uses the same 4 pin voltage control header system for their chassis headers. Asrocks is believe has 3 pin chassis headers other than the one pwm header.


PWM fans like Noctua NF-A15 PWM and NF-A14 PWM allow for much wider range of operation, you can drop them around 200rpms (as long as you are running them on a true PWM header), this is what steer me toward PWM fans, and specially toward noctua and their really great range of operation.

Now on Asus.... it depends on the user, i still recommend them as i do believe FanXpert2 is by far the best software fan control, hell i still kept my Asus Maximus VI Gene just to test fans, its simply the best that i know for that. But not all is perfect, Asus does have 3 bad things that made me move on from them,

1) Temp
Idk who or how they measure it, but the temp on Asus AI SUITE doesn't match anything at all, according to Asus representative JJ, its a complex algorithm that uses multiple sensors to simulate a more real CPU temperature, that sound great no.... but in reality is not, the temps dont match any software out there, specially probes that most of us use to monitor the CPU to not overdue the overclocking, hey forget overclocking just even to setup the fans... if the temps isnt accurate or at least the way we use to measure it, then its worthless. The biggest problem is that its not linear, for example a user could adjust to it by delta, but its lower on idle and higher on load than for example realtemp or coretemp or hwmonitor. Now for a user that has a big end cooler and doesnt overclock much, and maybe doesnt even monitor their temps or dont care if the number is accurate this shouldn't be an issue. There are multiple posts on ASUS ROG forums about this, but their mods and representatives chose to ignore them, here is one example, Hero Temperature Sensor difference and Fan Xpert 2

2) AI Suite III
A totally unneeded amount of bloatware and beta software, Asus even had to create a cleaner for it as into how bad the installs and how in enters the registry on windows, I have friends that even with the cleaner they couldn't uninstall it, they had to reformat to upgrade to the newest version. There is no need to bind FanXpert2 to it. Its such a good software that allows so much control, its a big asset of Asus over their competitors, enough to have it as stand alone software, no need to mix it with a ton of things that most of us don't need.

3) Asus lies
Asus have been marketing their motherboards with all their headers as PWM headers, this is not true, they have only 1 and the rest are voltage controlled, this is nothing to rage about it, as most manufacturers have only 1 true pwm header (MSI and AsRock do have two and some intel motherboards). Now the problem is that many believe the marketing buying all PWM fans and FanXpert2 is not good handling a 4pin PWM fan on a 4pin fake header (aka a voltage controlled 3pin). Depending on the fan this could be a big issue or not, PWM fans are not design to be used below 12V, in the best scenario you will not get the full range of the fan (the fan drop to 300rpm but on voltage only 500rpm), but in the worst scenario the fans become unstable, fanXpert2 reads the operational range wrong and operates the fans into voltages that fans stop, you might be taxing you PC and the fan could be stopped and you not knowing..... this is simply unacceptable, and all because they are not upfront with their customers, fanXpert2 is wonderful if you chose the correct fans for each header, but can be harmful if you don't.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I do use pwm cpu cooler fans. I'm using TY147s for now but I want to put the A15 Pwms there as soon as I can get some appropriate clips, I can't get the D14 stock or Megahalems clips to work with those.


To what i tested, the TY147 and NF-A15 PWM are very similar, both are 140mm fans with 120mm holes, the frame is very similar aside from the rubber incerts on the sides on the noctua. I was able to mount, without any issue, a NF-A15 PWM on HR02 using the included fan clips that are meant for the TY140/147, i leave you a picture of it,


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Another advantage of Noctua fans - they draw very little power, you can put several fans on one header. Some fans are very high amperage, like the NZXT FXs at 0.56 amps, Swiftech Helix at 0.45, etc.


I do agree that noctua fans are more efficient than a lot of whats in the market, but i try not to put more than two on each header. Using PWM fans and PWM fan splitter that has a molex connector to draw the 12V from the PSU is the safest and in my experience works really well.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> PWM fans like Noctua NF-A15 PWM and NF-A14 PWM allow for much wider range of operation, you can drop them around 200rpms (as long as you are running them on a true PWM header), this is what steer me toward PWM fans, and specially toward noctua and their really great range of operation.


Yeah. But what I found is that the minimum rpm allowed by Asus's voltage controlled chassis headers is sufficiently low that you go below the audible threshold. I don't need to go down to 200-300rpm, I only need to get to like 600rpm. And Fan Xpert is actually capable of taking a fan really low, though at fixed rpms rather than temp controlled ranges:


Quote:


> 1) Temp
> Idk who or how they measure it, but the temp on Asus AI SUITE doesn't match anything at all, according to Asus representative JJ, its a complex algorithm that uses multiple sensors to simulate a more real CPU temperature, that sound great no.... but in reality is not, the temps dont match any software out there, specially probes that most of us use to monitor the CPU to not overdue the overclocking, hey forget overclocking just even to setup the fans... if the temps isnt accurate or at least the way we use to measure it, then its worthless. The biggest problem is that its not linear, for example a user could adjust to it by delta, but its lower on idle and higher on load than for example realtemp or coretemp or hwmonitor. Now for a user that has a big end cooler and doesnt overclock much, and maybe doesnt even monitor their temps or dont care if the number is accurate this shouldn't be an issue.


I heard about this, that Asus monitors can be off by as much as 10 degrees, but for me the temps reported by AI Suite III matches what I'm getting on HWInfo and Aida64. Wasn't this more of an AI Suite II issue?
Quote:


> 2) AI Suite III
> A totally unneeded amount of bloatware and beta software, Asus even had to create a cleaner for it as into how bad the installs and how in enters the registry on windows, I have friends that even with the cleaner they couldn't uninstall it, they had to reformat to upgrade to the newest version. There is no need to bind FanXpert2 to it. Its such a good software that allows so much control, its a big asset of Asus over their competitors, enough to have it as stand alone software, no need to mix it with a ton of things that most of us don't need.


I'm actually a big fan of AI Suite III. Fan Xpert 2 of course. But USB Boost improves my transfer rates by a whopping 15-20%, consistently. I like Wi Fi Go with my phone, it's easier than Samsung Kies or dropbox or whatever. I even like 4 Way Optimization, I just tried that out, it does raise voltages past what you can get manually but if you don't want to spend hours tweaking, it's a one click path to a good overclock. I got 4.6 @ 1.25v manually after hours and hours, AI Suite III got me 4.6 @ 1.275v in one mouse click. Not bad. I should have just done it that way from the start and saved myself the time. All in all I really do like this software. I have no experience with other board makers' offerings though.
Quote:


> 3) Asus lies
> Asus have been marketing their motherboards with all their headers as PWM headers, this is not true, they have only 1 and the rest are voltage controlled, this is nothing to rage about it, as most manufacturers have only 1 true pwm header (MSI and AsRock do have two and some intel motherboards). Now the problem is that many believe the marketing buying all PWM fans and FanXpert2 is not good handling a 4pin PWM fan on a 4pin fake header (aka a voltage controlled 3pin). Depending on the fan this could be a big issue or not, PWM fans are not design to be used below 12V, in the best scenario you will not get the full range of the fan (the fan drop to 300rpm but on voltage only 500rpm), but in the worst scenario the fans become unstable, fanXpert2 reads the operational range wrong and operates the fans into voltages that fans stop, you might be taxing you PC and the fan could be stopped and you not knowing..... this is simply unacceptable, and all because they are not upfront with their customers, fanXpert2 is wonderful if you chose the correct fans for each header, but can be harmful if you don't.


Asus actually explains why they do it this way:

*Usually, the hardware solutions used by motherboard vendors can control the connected fans in one way only, they don't have the flexibility to control the header in both ways. So it's worse for the end-user if the header the fan is connected to controls it in PWM mode only. While this is acceptable for 4-pin fans, if a 3-pin fan is connected to such a header, it will run at full speed all the time without any form of RPM control. On the flip-side, 4-pin fans can be controlled if they are connected to a fan header that can control in voltage mode (DC) only. It won't be PWM duty cycle control, but at least the fans won't run at full speed all the time.* http://pcdiy.asus.com/2013/07/z87-pro-comprehensive-feature-overview/

As to pwm fans getting hurt by low voltages, I don't think that's the case with Noctua fans. After all they ship with low noise adapters which reduce voltages. (Isn't that how the LNA cables work?) Also, Asus chassis headers have a +5v on the 4th pin where the pwm signal would ordinarily be, it's not strictly speaking a 3 pin voltage control. I don't fully understand how this works but I know it's different from a 3 pin.

[quote[To what i tested, the TY147 and NF-A15 PWM are very similar, both are 140mm fans with 120mm holes, the frame is very similar aside from the rubber incerts on the sides on the noctua. I was able to mount, without any issue, a NF-A15 PWM on HR02 using the included fan clips that are meant for the TY140/147, i leave you a picture of it,[/quote]

Oh so you removed the little anti vibration pads? What TY 140 clips are you talking about? Megahalems clips? Or the ones from Silver Arrow? I'm going to email Noctua and see if they have clips that will mount the A15 PWM to a D14. I imagine they must.


----------



## Seffyr

Hi lads! First post here and I'm super excited about it. I've been putting off joining OC.net till I had my mods completed but my perspex order got pushed back and I'm impatient so here goes;

This is my Fractal Design Define R4. I initially bought the R2 several years back and loved it so much I moved my build into a nicer home - the R4.
After subscribing to SingularityComputer's YouTube channel and stalking this thread, modding took it's hold on my mind.
Being a recently finished student (Meaning I'm broke) and unemployed at the moment I took the time to start modding my PC. I might not have the money to make my computer a powerful monster of a machine or water cool it, but I certainly have enough funds to buy a Dremel, start modding and make it look pretty!

There are a few little things I need to do before I'd consider the case mods complete:
I'm awaiting my side window panel which is a 3mm dark grey tint perspex. I'll be double sided taping it to the inside of the side panel. I don't want rivets or bolts breaking up the clean lines.
The triple fan mount in the images was a test cut from scrap acrylic to make sure everything fit - I'll be getting that cut out of a black acrylic soon.
The front door (Which has been sliced open, as seen in the pictures) will be getting a new 4.5mm 560 perspex (dark grey tint) panel put on it. I'll be replicating the original Define R4 front door, but it'll be made of dark perspex so that the fans should be sort of visible behind it.

Aaaaaaaand if I manage to scrap together some additional funds there is some other stuff I'll be doing:
3x 120mm blue CM Jetflo fans for the front fan mount. 3 LED fans through the dark grey perspex door should look badass. Being a bit broke I might ask some of the local PC shops if they want to sponsor my build. =3
A blue Prolimatech Megahalems - this one is a bit of a pipe dream though. You can only get the regular steel ones here in NZ, and the only accessible one I can find is to order it from France via eBay which will cost nearly $180 NZD inc shipping...
Watercooling - if I manage to scrap together like $500-600 NZD i'll be water cooling my build instead of the Megahalems. Probably EKWB stuff, and I'll be making use of my UV CCFLs and using UV reactive coolant.
A modular PSU - stashing the cables for my current PSU behind the mobo is a nightmare.

After that's all done and dusted I can finally sort out my cable management, and reattach that UV CCFL that is hanging in the picture to the roof.

tl;dr: I'm poor. Here's my half-done build. Feel free to sponsor me with parts or work. =)


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seffyr*
> 
> Hi lads! First post here and I'm super excited about it. I've been putting off joining OC.net till I had my mods completed but my perspex order got pushed back and I'm impatient so here goes;
> 
> This is my Fractal Design Define R4. I initially bought the R2 several years back and loved it so much I moved my build into a nicer home - the R4.
> After subscribing to SingularityComputer's YouTube channel and stalking this thread, modding took it's hold on my mind.
> Being a recently finished student (Meaning I'm broke) and unemployed at the moment I took the time to start modding my PC. I might not have the money to make my computer a powerful monster of a machine or water cool it, but I certainly have enough funds to buy a Dremel, start modding and make it look pretty!
> 
> There are a few little things I need to do before I'd consider the case mods complete:
> I'm awaiting my side window panel which is a 3mm dark grey tint perspex. I'll be double sided taping it to the inside of the side panel. I don't want rivets or bolts breaking up the clean lines.
> The triple fan mount in the images was a test cut from scrap acrylic to make sure everything fit - I'll be getting that cut out of a black acrylic soon.
> The front door (Which has been sliced open, as seen in the pictures) will be getting a new 4.5mm 560 perspex (dark grey tint) panel put on it. I'll be replicating the original Define R4 front door, but it'll be made of dark perspex so that the fans should be sort of visible behind it.
> 
> Aaaaaaaand if I manage to scrap together some additional funds there is some other stuff I'll be doing:
> 3x 120mm blue CM Jetflo fans for the front fan mount. 3 LED fans through the dark grey perspex door should look badass. Being a bit broke I might ask some of the local PC shops if they want to sponsor my build. =3
> A blue Prolimatech Megahalems - this one is a bit of a pipe dream though. You can only get the regular steel ones here in NZ, and the only accessible one I can find is to order it from France via eBay which will cost nearly $180 NZD inc shipping...
> Watercooling - if I manage to scrap together like $500-600 NZD i'll be water cooling my build instead of the Megahalems. Probably EKWB stuff, and I'll be making use of my UV CCFLs and using UV reactive coolant.
> A modular PSU - stashing the cables for my current PSU behind the mobo is a nightmare.
> 
> After that's all done and dusted I can finally sort out my cable management, and reattach that UV CCFL that is hanging in the picture to the roof.
> 
> tl;dr: I'm poor. Here's my half-done build. Feel free to sponsor me with parts or work. =)


Welcome to OCN

Looks good

Just one question that Cooler Master GX PSU is that the bronze rated version or the old one?

Does it say bronze on the side?


----------



## Seffyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Welcome to OCN
> 
> Looks good
> 
> Just one question that Cooler Master GX PSU is that the bronze rated version or the old one?
> 
> Does it say bronze on the side?


It's the Bronze rated one. My first PC build ever. I had a bit of help and am progressively learning more, but PSUs are something that still elude me. Why do you ask? Poor choice of PSU?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Yeah. But what I found is that the minimum rpm allowed by Asus's voltage controlled chassis headers is sufficiently low that you go below the audible threshold. I don't need to go down to 200-300rpm, I only need to get to like 600rpm. And Fan Xpert is actually capable of taking a fan really low, though at fixed rpms rather than temp controlled ranges:


I guess we all have different liking to what we consider quiet enough, and we all different hearing conditions as well as different ambient noises, for me 600rpm is too noticeable, while for most might not, either way MSI Bios Fan Control + Noctua fans = a range of operation between 200 to 1500, its up to you to set it up how you like it, there is no loss for using Bios fan control over FanXpert2.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I heard about this, that Asus monitors can be off by as much as 10 degrees, but for me the temps reported by AI Suite III matches what I'm getting on HWInfo and Aida64. Wasn't this more of an AI Suite II issue?


I did try HWinfo and had the same temps as HWmonitor on the cores, never really tried Aida64 but ill give a shot next weeked just for fun. And about bieng an issue of AI SUITE II, no its present on my AI SUITE III, as well as many others that had reported this on the ROG Forums, hey maybe its ROG thing and the standard motherboards are fine, who knows..... Here is a Prime95 on stock clocks on my GENE VI, where you can see the difference in temps,



Personally i would love the temps to be like AI Suite reports, hey 44C on load on 4770K sounds amazing, and the graph that fanXpert2 draw seems fine the problem is that fanXpert2 believes the CPU is that temp and its not ramping the fans, the cores are already at 70C+ while the 44C is reported on AI suite III. I moved on to MSI motherboard and the temps im getting are very similar with same ambient temps, personally i would love to be wrong and that my i7 is runnign at 44C on load, but i just fear that im going to burn it with how AI Suite reads/displays the cpu temp. Would be interesting if you could run HWInfo paralel to AI suite and let prime95 run for 30mins and screenshot it, maybe HWmonitor, Realtemp and CoreTemp are wrong in both Asus and MSI motherboards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I'm actually a big fan of AI Suite III. Fan Xpert 2 of course. But USB Boost improves my transfer rates by a whopping 15-20%, consistently. I like Wi Fi Go with my phone, it's easier than Samsung Kies or dropbox or whatever. I even like 4 Way Optimization, I just tried that out, it does raise voltages past what you can get manually but if you don't want to spend hours tweaking, it's a one click path to a good overclock. I got 4.6 @ 1.25v manually after hours and hours, AI Suite III got me 4.6 @ 1.275v in one mouse click. Not bad. I should have just done it that way from the start and saved myself the time. All in all I really do like this software. I have no experience with other board makers' offerings though.


I guess we all look for different things on our setups, i like the more minimalistic setup on software than having to load extra things that i don't use. But i do agree into AI Suite III and FanXpert2 making a lot simpler for users that don't want to mess with tweaking and setting up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> As to pwm fans getting hurt by low voltages, I don't think that's the case with Noctua fans. After all they ship with low noise adapters which reduce voltages. (Isn't that how the LNA cables work?)


All i can tell you that my Noctua NF-A14 PWM and a Prolimatech Ultra slim Vortex 140 PWM stopped being ran on CHA_FAN2 header, while satandard 3pin fans never stoped, the fans are not meant to be ran like that in their internal design. Yes the LNA will lower the voltage, but not to the proportion that FanXpert2 does, maybe it matter the amount maybe it doesn't, i really don't know, what i do know is that the fans stopped multiple times out of fanXpert2 not able to establish the minimum RPMS that the PWM could run on Voltage controlled header. Weather this happens with all PWM fans idk, but it did happen with what i tested.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Also, Asus chassis headers have a +5v on the 4th pin where the pwm signal would ordinarily be, it's not strictly speaking a 3 pin voltage control. I don't fully understand how this works but I know it's different from a 3 pin.


It would be much simpler for asus to implement what they did on the CPU_FAN on all headers, which you can make it voltage controlled (3pin) by simply entering the bios and swapping the Q-Fan from Auto to advanced. Asus knows how to do it right, they simply didn't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Oh so you removed the little anti vibration pads?


No, maybe you are confusing the NF-A14 with the NF-A15, similar fans but the frame is different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> What TY 140 clips are you talking about? Megahalems clips? Or the ones from Silver Arrow?


Its not about the clips, i show mine simply to illustrate that the NF-A15 PWM can be used as the TY147 can. What i was trying to say is that the fans are so similar that if you can mount the TY147, you should be able to mount the NF-A15 PWM, with what you currently own, the frame is almost identical, the fan holes are in the same positions, the only thing that could give you issues is the sides as the Noctua has some extra rubber on them, but my guess is that it shouldn't bother you.

Just to close this, and to clear it a little better, i still recommend asus for people that don't want to bother tweaking and testing. If asus releases motherboards with less bios fan restrictions more in line with MSI and AsRock, and releases all PWM headers as they falsely advertise, then i would come back again, i still think manufacture good all around motherboards, just atm is not the right one for me.


----------



## ZeVo

So I removed the bottom 5.25 bay in my Midi (again) just because it looks so much better and my temps dropped a couple of degrees. Now I got my HDD in the 5.25 bays using the included 3.5 to 5.25 adapter, but the noise is driving me crazy from the vibration. I was thinking, maybe I should buy one of these to stop it?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11757/hdc-77/Akasa_HDD_Cooler_Anti-Vibration_Suspension_Set_AK-HD03-BK.html?tl=g43c12s852

I was also looking at this, but I don't know if it'd be neccessary as I only have one HDD and SSD, and I have no clue if that tiny 80mm fan would be a vacuum:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10060/cpa-294/Evercool_ARMOR_Dual_525_Drive_Bay_to_Triple_35_HDD_Cooling_Box_HD-AR-R-BK.html?tl=g43c12s852

Any thoughts?


----------



## s1m0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> They're very good. I have had loads of spares sent out to me.


I'm asking, because it's been few days after I replayed to Fractals support providing them with my case serial and proof of purchase and got no answer yet!


----------



## Nowyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1m0n*
> 
> I'm asking, because it's been few days after I replayed to Fractals support providing them with my case serial and proof of purchase and got no answer yet!


I had a defective fan controller in my Arc. From my experience it takes them around a day or two to respond. After a couple of replies they notified me of sending new part and 2 days later I received it.

Af for how long shipping took, I guess it depends on where you live and how good is your mailing service. I live in Estonia and part was sent from Sweden, so not much of a distance really in my case.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seffyr*
> 
> It's the Bronze rated one. My first PC build ever. I had a bit of help and am progressively learning more, but PSUs are something that still elude me. Why do you ask? Poor choice of PSU?


Nope if it where the old non bronze then you would be in trouble

But the bronze is not that bad its not great but at least its not going to blow up like the old GX

No problem just making sure


----------



## s1m0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nowyn*
> 
> I had a defective fan controller in my Arc. From my experience it takes them around a day or two to respond. After a couple of replies they notified me of sending new part and 2 days later I received it.
> 
> Af for how long shipping took, I guess it depends on where you live and how good is your mailing service. I live in Estonia and part was sent from Sweden, so not much of a distance really in my case.


Good to hear that they are good at supporting users!

Got the XL R2 with all plastic clips broken off that hold the front panel on the steel case







Don't know how this could happen because the box doesn't show any signs of damage.


----------



## NiKa

Anyone knows the difference between

Fractal Design Arc Mini r1 vs r2?


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKa*
> 
> Anyone knows the difference between
> 
> Fractal Design Arc Mini r1 vs r2?


Removable 5.25" Drive Bay
360 rad support (5.25" removed)
Window
New front intake with removable dust filter.
Fan controller.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Removable 5.25" Drive Bay
> 360 rad support (5.25" removed)
> Window
> New front intake with removable dust filter.
> Fan controller.


and 2 removable ssd trays/plates on back of motherboard


----------



## NiKa

Thank you for the asnwers...









(ordered r2...







)...


----------



## looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I love my Arc Midi R2, but I feel like they could have offered a little more space for cable clearance behind the mobo tray. I'm finding it very difficult to cram my cables back there without the side panel having to bend a little.


my god.. and i thought 2.5cm was more than enough for cable management, I'm currently working with 1.2cm of space(PC-9F)


----------



## CoolGuy90

Is there a way to remove the front panel cables if not being used?


----------



## Seffyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Is there a way to remove the front panel cables if not being used?


Having just pulled apart my front panel of my Define R4 I can confirm that you can unscrew the PCBs for stuff like the audio and USB and remove them and the wiring altogether.
However, if you're referring to the Arc I can't make that call sorry. I'd assume that Fractal would make their cases in mostly the same manner? Can anyone else confirm?


----------



## CoolGuy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seffyr*
> 
> Having just pulled apart my front panel of my Define R4 I can confirm that you can unscrew the PCBs for stuff like the audio and USB and remove them and the wiring altogether.
> However, if you're referring to the Arc I can't make that call sorry. I'd assume that Fractal would make their cases in mostly the same manner? Can anyone else confirm?


I was wondering specifically on the Arc XL but like you saw it is probably the same throughout their cases. How much room is there behind the mobo for cables?


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> I need some help, maybe someone else has experience the problem that I have. Im building on Define R4 but seems like the PCIe cards are not matching with the case as it should, like if I try to screw the cards, the back of the card lifts some, on the GPU don't seem to create a problem because the PCIe 16x has a lock so the gpu kinda pulls a little bit the mobo, but on my omega eclaro there if I screw it the back goes up a little bit and this creates static noise on my speakers, if I unscrew it and push it so the card fits in line with the PCIe x1 then the bracket is like couple of mm out from the screw, not allowing me to secure it, if I do again the pcie card lifts some and the problem comes back.
> 
> I read a long time ago there were some user that reported like the Fractal didn't align correctly the PCIe or maybe was the mounting screwed behind the motherboard. Here is a very bad drawing of my problem, probably is not as bad as I make it to be, but it gets the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> I still have ARC MIDI R2 that im going to test tomorrow, hopping this one doesn't have this issue, but since they are so alike.... idk. Maybe some owner has dealth with this issue before or knows what to do.
> 
> Thanks again for any info,


Sorry for quoting you so many months later I have the same exact problem with my Midi R1. Did you ever find out what was wrong? Or if it happened with the Midi R2 too? I honestly thought to myself what in the world is going on.. I shifted my mobo forward and back but still it doesn't fit in perfectly. I'm already out of warranty on the case, maybe I gotta save up for a R4 or Midi R2 if they go on sale.


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> Arc XL in action


is that mount for your pump/res something you made? if not, do you have a link to where you got it?


----------



## Anoxy

Do the ODD bays need to be removed to fit a 360mm rad in the top of the Arc XL?


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> I was wondering specifically on the Arc XL but like you saw it is probably the same throughout their cases. How much room is there behind the mobo for cables?


I don't remember the exact number, and I'm not around my case at the moment, but there is plenty of room behind mobo for cabling.


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Do the ODD bays need to be removed to fit a 360mm rad in the top of the Arc XL?


No. but you won't be able to use them for something as big as an optical drive. something like a fan controller would still fit though.

I'm going with a 60mm thick 280mm instead of a 360 just to keep my options open for the ODD bays. well...as soon as frozen CPU gets them back in stock...


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo 40*
> 
> No. but you won't be able to use them for something as big as an optical drive. something like a fan controller would still fit though.
> 
> I'm going with a 60mm thick 280mm instead of a 360 just to keep my options open for the ODD bays. well...as soon as frozen CPU gets them back in stock...


There isn't enough clearance for 60mm top rad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo 40*
> 
> is that mount for your pump/res something you made? if not, do you have a link to where you got it?


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/ek-uni-holder-ddc-add-on.html
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/ek-uni-holder-d5.html


----------



## a11an

Double post .


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> There isn't enough clearance for 60mm top rad.


huh. I completely misread that it would. I thought with the offset that it would fit. I'm glad you told me that., you just saved me some money and/or hassle. thanks.

Now I have to completely rethink what I'm going to do.
Quote:


> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/ek-uni-holder-ddc-add-on.html
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/pumps-and-accessories/pumps-accessories/ek-uni-holder-d5.html


and thanks for the link.


----------



## cyphon

I'm considering building an HTPC and I'm looking at the Node 605. Anyone have a setup using this or can offer a recommendation for it?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> There isn't enough clearance for 60mm top rad.


In the XL? Are you sure about that?


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> In the XL? Are you sure about that?


Check out your arc midi. XL isn't any wider or is it? The 140 mounts are almost in level with the middle 120mm mounts. So if the case does not support 60mm 360 rad then it should not support 60mm 280 rad either.


----------



## Anoxy

I have a 60mm 360 rad in the top of my Arc Midi in push/pull though, which is why I ask. I had to remove the ODD bays for it to fit, but I'm assuming the XL is more forgiving?

Maybe we have different perceptions of what "fitting" means. I don't care if the rad/fans cover half the motherboard, as long as it can be mounted and the CPU can be reached by tubing and angled fittings. But if you mean it doesn't fit because the motherboard is slightly covered, I understand that.


----------



## Slayerik

another small upgrade, brand new cpu cooler, limited edition Scythe Ashura Shadow, all black... with eLoop matches the theme perfectly








pls excuse crappy Lumia 520 photos










to do: paint black fan mounting, and white some mosfet covers, especialy southbridge one


----------



## Seffyr

Almost done! Perspex arrived. Manged to attach the side window with some double sided tape with little hassle (Not so sure on the strength or security of it - bit it seems fine for now).

Anywho, I could use a little bit of help; does anyone have any ideas on how I can attach the face plate to the face plate framing? I was originally intending to just affix the new face plate in the same way the original was using the same screws. However, the original faceplate has some "posts" I guess you could call them that slot into the holes in the framing and are used to affix the face plate to the framing. I wanted to avoid having to bolt the face plate to the framing because I want to keep the face plate as clean as possible.

There are a few solutions I could see and would appreciate any ideas or suggestions while I figure this out;

1) Bolt the face plate to the framing. This is kind of last resort as it would sort of destroy the aesthetic I was going for but if it works - it works...
2) Fill in the framing with an epoxy or plastic of some sort, and then glue the face plate to the framing. This one is sounding like the most feasible way for me to get the look I want.
3) Longer screws. Just an idea... Probably combine that with idea 2 and flood the framing with epoxy and then use longer screws.








Edit: Photos taken from my phone. My wife's DSLR is buried somewhere... so yeah.


----------



## DirtDiver1978

Hey Guys.....DarcArc update 3:








please leave a comment!!...


----------



## Kyashan

Hello guys







after I read a few months to several reviews, I decided to buy the Fractal Design Arc Xl, the first thing I would like to replace the fan with the new LED, I ask you where to install silent fan with blue LED on the front and top of the case, I would also get a good boost of air and also install Lamptron control panel 5.25 ". We would be grateful if you post pictures where you can also get ideas for my new project. Sorry for my bad English









@DarcArc Great job Congratulations!

What is the brand of this control panel fans?



I would like to otterne fans with an similar effect

 

Thank you all for the pictures and congratulations for the job

Many forum users using arc midi r2, is better than XL? Thanks


----------



## NYMD

>DarcArc update 3

Is that Tygon norprene? looks great!


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> >DarcArc update 3
> 
> Is that Tygon norprene? looks great!


This is EK ZMT Matte Black tubing.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/10-16mm-3-8-5-8-tubing/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-16-10mm-retail.html


----------



## Rar4f

When installing a 3.5" hdd in optical bay with a adapter like this,


it's surface (the adapter) is not supposed to touch the surface of the optical bay correct?
Just want to ask this as i can't seem to align the screwholes of the optical bay with the adapter's without having to elevate the adapter.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> When installing a 3.5" hdd in optical bay with a adapter like this,
> 
> 
> it's surface (the adapter) is not supposed to touch the surface of the optical bay correct?
> Just want to ask this as i can't seem to align the screwholes of the optical bay with the adapter's without having to elevate the adapter.


Not entirely sure what you're asking here, but the inside lips of the adapters should screw into the sides of the HDD.


----------



## mxfreek09

Not sure if anyone has done a guide on this before. But I decided to changed my power LED light from red to white on my White R4 and while I was doing it I recorded my progress. Here is the guide if any of you R4 owners are interested.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1450451/fractal-design-r4-power-led-change


----------



## Elyminator

Hey on the arc mini r2 can you use fan splitters to connect multiple fans to the one controller (call it 9) or is there not enough power in it


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elyminator*
> 
> Hey on the arc mini r2 can you use fan splitters to connect multiple fans to the one controller (call it 9) or is there not enough power in it


Maximum is 15W so I doubt it'll do 9 fans.


----------



## Elyminator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Maximum is 15W so I doubt it'll do 9 fans.


well thanks for the info. I have a fan controller that will work I just like that one and since it's build into the case it's nice.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elyminator*
> 
> well thanks for the info. I have a fan controller that will work I just like that one and since it's build into the case it's nice.


I wish they'd up the wattage. I'd happily pay extra for a 30W+ built in fan controller.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Not entirely sure what you're asking here, but the inside lips of the adapters should screw into the sides of the HDD.


I am not talking about assembling HDD to the adapter, but when your going to screwdown the hdd (with adapter to it) to the 5.25 bay.


----------



## NiKa

I wanted to ask some questions about...
Fractal Design Define XL R2

I am thinking of building another new server that can hold as many hard drives as possible...
using This Motherboard that has 22 SATA slots...

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z87%20Extreme11ac/index.us.asp

but for $550....

Fractal Design Define XL R2
i see that it has 8 hard drive bays

maybe use this
http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=48
for 5 more hard drives,

and i am thinking if i can attach additional hard drive cages
http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=323 (for 4 more hard drives)
and
http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=388 (for 4 more hard drives)

Total 8+5+4+4=21 hard drives...
(with the Asrock Motherboard with the 22 Sata slots)

I asked Fractal if this is a viable build...
They responded:
"The lower HDD cage will fit, but I haven't tested an additional lower HDD cage in combination with the top HDD cage in a case with the motherboad installed, so I can't say for sure.
Otherwise this looks like a doable solution."

Any suggestions?


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I am not talking about assembling HDD to the adapter, but when your going to screwdown the hdd (with adapter to it) to the 5.25 bay.


Ah, I see. Yes, the adapter+HDD should not touch the bottom of the optical bay. It should sit slightly above the surface so that air can move freely over and under the drive.


----------



## Seffyr

Mods are drawing to a close (Finally). Only a few things left to do;
Replace the white acrylic fan mount with black acrylic, and then screw it to the face plate.
Buy a third fan for the fan mount.
Clean up glue spots on the face plate. (On that subject; anyone have any safe ways to remove glue from acrylic? Acetone is out of the question).

Feeling pretty good about the results (From a distance). Up close you notice a few of the botched areas, but they're fine for the greater part. I learned alot on this little modding romp. =)


----------



## Rar4f

A letter in the case is for standard ATX motherboards correct?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> A letter in the case is for standard ATX motherboards correct?


Yeah that's right.


----------



## cyphon

So no one has used the Node 605?


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NiKa*
> 
> I wanted to ask some questions about...
> Fractal Design Define XL R2
> 
> I am thinking of building another new server that can hold as many hard drives as possible...
> using This Motherboard that has 22 SATA slots...
> 
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z87%20Extreme11ac/index.us.asp
> 
> but for $550....
> 
> Fractal Design Define XL R2
> i see that it has 8 hard drive bays
> 
> maybe use this
> http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=48
> for 5 more hard drives,
> 
> and i am thinking if i can attach additional hard drive cages
> http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=323 (for 4 more hard drives)
> and
> http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=388 (for 4 more hard drives)
> 
> Total 8+5+4+4=21 hard drives...
> (with the Asrock Motherboard with the 22 Sata slots)
> 
> I asked Fractal if this is a viable build...
> They responded:
> "The lower HDD cage will fit, but I haven't tested an additional lower HDD cage in combination with the top HDD cage in a case with the motherboad installed, so I can't say for sure.
> Otherwise this looks like a doable solution."
> 
> Any suggestions?


For 21 HDD i suggest more a Norco 4224 or 4220, given that they are expensive cases, they are wroth it into how much eaiser will be to manage so many hdds later on. And about the AsRock imo not worth it, just get a motherboard that has at least 2x PCIe 4x and get some IBM 1015 on ebay, this way even if the motherboard fails or you want to upgrade to a new setup later on, you can move the PCie cards with the new setup and dont loss so much as little is invested in the motherboard.


----------



## cyclometric

New Arc MIDI R2 owner!! Please add me to the club!

I am just starting to put together (frankly at this point it's more "taking apart" than building) and I have a dilemma.

I want to have a positive pressure case, and want to use all 3 of the stock 140mm fans, along with 2 of the infamous "Group Buy" 2150 Gentle Typhoons on my radiator, pulling air in. The rear and top fans would be exhaust, and then if I could mount another 140mm on the bottom as intake (for GPU & more positive pressure), that'd be great. But I just discovered that moving the bottom HDD cage back to the next mount point covers the 140mm bottom fan holes (and the 120mm holes, too).

I'd mount the radiator on top, but I'd rather have the more natural bottom/front intake ==>> rear/top exhaust pattern.

If I could just attach the bottom (shorter) drive cage to the optical bay, that would be great. I could probably find a spot to mount my single HDD without a cage, and use the MB SSD mount... leaving all that space free... But I was going to put my pump on top of the drive cage, or sitting inside the larger/top drive cage if I end up attaching it from the bottom of the optical bay ... but it might not have be in the way of the front mounted Rad...

Any advice?




There are so many possibilities, but I keep finding faults in the basics... how do you guys run your fans for top mounted radiators? Merci Beaucoup!


----------



## passinos

Putting a 280mm Rad in the front of my R4 with push/pull fans. Got 2x 7970 to cool.
removing both drive bays of course.

Think I can get away with a 60mm thick 280mm? (plus 50mm of fans)


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passinos*
> 
> Putting a 280mm Rad in the front of my R4 with push/pull fans. Got 2x 7970 to cool.
> removing both drive bays of course.
> 
> Think I can get away with a 60mm thick 280mm? (plus 50mm of fans)


I know people have 280 ut60s and such in front of the midi r2 & it is basically the same size, but I cant say for sure how easy it would be. I am about to order a ut60 280 for the front of my midi r2 and I also have an r4. It might be a while but I can check the fit when I get it if no one else chimes in first.


----------



## steelkevin

Hi,

The Midi R2 can technically fit a 280mm up top and I currently have a 55mm thick EK one up there with two Yate Loons. Trouble is you can't use the rear fan's mounting wholes because of it. I was able to squeeze a stock FD 140mm Fan back there and keep it in place using velcro but I had to sort of trim down the top of it and it's still a very tight fit.
I'd like to eventually fully equip my rig with Akasa Apache fans like my front rad has.
What I'm wondering is how many rads people can fit in an R2. I'd like to swap my top rad out for either a thinner 280mm or a 360mm rad but the first would be a slight downgrade whereas the latter would be sort of a sidegrade. I'm cooling an i7-860 overclocked by 40% and a stock R9 290 and wouldn't refuse a few degrees less on at least the GPU. Where else would you lot put rads ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know people have 280 ut60s and such in front of the midi r2 & it is basically the same size, but I cant say for sure how easy it would be. I am about to order a ut60 280 for the front of my midi r2 and I also have an r4. It might be a while but I can check the fit when I get it if no one else chimes in first.


One of my best friends (and the only person I know whose into watercooling and computers) has an R4 with a UT60 and Four Vipers up front. So Yes it will fit. He even left the ODD bays.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Sorry for quoting you so many months later I have the same exact problem with my Midi R1. Did you ever find out what was wrong? Or if it happened with the Midi R2 too? I honestly thought to myself what in the world is going on.. I shifted my mobo forward and back but still it doesn't fit in perfectly. I'm already out of warranty on the case, maybe I gotta save up for a R4 or Midi R2 if they go on sale.


Anyone..?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> The Midi R2 can technically fit a 280mm up top and I currently have a 55mm thick EK one up there with two Yate Loons. Trouble is you can't use the rear fan's mounting wholes because of it. I was able to squeeze a stock FD 140mm Fan back there and keep it in place using velcro but I had to sort of trim down the top of it and it's still a very tight fit.
> I'd like to eventually fully equip my rig with Akasa Apache fans like my front rad has.
> What I'm wondering is how many rads people can fit in an R2. I'd like to swap my top rad out for either a thinner 280mm or a 360mm rad but the first would be a slight downgrade whereas the latter would be sort of a sidegrade. I'm cooling an i7-860 overclocked by 40% and a stock R9 290 and wouldn't refuse a few degrees less on at least the GPU. Where else would you lot put rads ?
> One of my best friends (and the only person I know whose into watercooling and computers) has an R4 with a UT60 and Four Vipers up front. So Yes it will fit. He even left the ODD bays.


I put the ek triple p.e. up top of the empty midi r2 last night because I am also trying to decide what rad(s) to use up top. It seemed that for my setup only the thinnest triple would work and clear the cpu plug. I dont really like the looks of the thick rads blocking the top anyhow and I also want to use the rear as exaust but I wondered about squeezing a slim 280 in the offset but still adding a 120 rad in that weird top front spot and maybe sticking a flow meter between them or something.


----------



## cyclometric

I am a proud new owner of Arc Midi R2. I sorta asked the same question this morning, but no one responded. I usual try to be more patient, but lately, across different areas on OCN, I ask for help and no one responds, which in my experience is not the OCN way. Are people holiday-busy? Do my pits stink? Should I have a tic-tac? Apologies for being a noodge, but I'm anxious to start putting my new build together... and could use the experience of Midi / Fractal case owners, please.

Two part question concerning mounting my two drives, one HDD, one SSD. I'd like to be able to mount my 240mm rad in front with fans as intake, and still be able to use the bottom fan mount for a 140 or at the very least, a 120 fan. Can't seem to do so with the bottom drive cage in the medium position, and rad won't fit unless I move it... So,

Is it possible to attach the bottom cage directly to the bottom of the optical bay, without doing any modding? I'm wondering if I removed the plastic mounts from both the bay & the cage, if the screw holes would line up to allow that position;
if not, I'm considering employing a leftover optical bay adapter for a 3.5 drive and maybe rivetting it to the optical bay, so I'll have an HDD place, and then will just put the SSD behind the mobo. Any other suggestions for where/how to mount a single HDD without using either of the cages (and both of the optical bay spots will be filled (stealth dvd + hidden rheosmart 3 to be left on PWM).
Please, any suggestions?

Thanks,


----------



## Rar4f

I think your best option is to do what you thought, using a adapter to install hdd in optical bay and put the ssd behind motherboard.
EDIT:
Maybe if you removed the part that's right below optical bay to support the top HDD cage, you could install a hdd there instead.


----------



## echo27fire

@cyclometric

So you want to mount a single HDD without using the cages or a 5.25 adaptor? You don't have a lot of options really unless you feel like getting crafty. What I've seen a lot of people do is take a piece of plexi or something and place it vertically in the space behind the cages and mount the drives to that.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> I think your best option is to do what you thought, using a adapter to install hdd in optical bay and put the ssd behind motherboard.
> EDIT:
> Maybe if you removed the part that's right below optical bay to support the top HDD cage, you could install a hdd there instead.


Do you mean the plastic thingamajig with the two grooves in it? What would the drive attach to? That's why I thought of somehow mounting an adapter to the bay... Maybe I should consider mounting the small rheosmart 3 fan controller somewhere else, and that'd leave me a bay to put the HDD in... thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> @cyclometric
> 
> So you want to mount a single HDD without using the cages or a 5.25 adaptor? You don't have a lot of options really unless you feel like getting crafty. What I've seen a lot of people do is take a piece of plexi or something and place it vertically in the space behind the cages and mount the drives to that.


Right, I plan on having both of the bays filled already, and it would be nice to have something hanging below the optical serving two purposes: first, to mount the HDD and ideally the SSD, too, and second, with a shelf or other mount point for my pump, though that could probably go between the bottom fan and the rad.

Thank you both for responding! I no longer feel neglected!


----------



## Rar4f

This thing


Maybe it's a bad idea. But i thought if you could get a hdd to align with the holes in optical bay that the plastic thing is screwed to, maybe you can install hdd there.
But you'd need to find a way to secure it.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric*
> 
> Right, I plan on having both of the bays filled already, and it would be nice to have something hanging below the optical serving two purposes: first, to mount the HDD and ideally the SSD, too, and second, with a shelf or other mount point for my pump, though that could probably go between the bottom fan and the rad.
> 
> Thank you both for responding! I no longer feel neglected!


lol, not a problem. An SSD can really go anywhere you can fit it. You can get some velcro and mount it to the back of the 5.25 bays. Might be a little difficult with the screws for those bays in place. Also, look at the pic, this is what I was thinking of in my first post.



EDIT:

Also, you can get something like these to mount a pump or rez.


----------



## NiKa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NiKa*
> 
> I wanted to ask some questions about...
> Fractal Design Define XL R2
> 
> I am thinking of building another new server that can hold as many hard drives as possible...
> using This Motherboard that has 22 SATA slots...
> 
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z87%20Extreme11ac/index.us.asp
> 
> but for $550....
> 
> Fractal Design Define XL R2
> i see that it has 8 hard drive bays
> 
> maybe use this
> http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=48
> for 5 more hard drives,
> 
> and i am thinking if i can attach additional hard drive cages
> http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=323 (for 4 more hard drives)
> and
> http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=388 (for 4 more hard drives)
> 
> Total 8+5+4+4=21 hard drives...
> (with the Asrock Motherboard with the 22 Sata slots)
> 
> I asked Fractal if this is a viable build...
> They responded:
> "The lower HDD cage will fit, but I haven't tested an additional lower HDD cage in combination with the top HDD cage in a case with the motherboad installed, so I can't say for sure.
> Otherwise this looks like a doable solution."
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> For 21 HDD i suggest more a Norco 4224 or 4220, given that they are expensive cases, they are wroth it into how much eaiser will be to manage so many hdds later on. And about the AsRock imo not worth it, just get a motherboard that has at least 2x PCIe 4x and get some IBM 1015 on ebay, this way even if the motherboard fails or you want to upgrade to a new setup later on, you can move the PCie cards with the new setup and dont loss so much as little is invested in the motherboard.
Click to expand...

Never thought on failure matter...
Will consider the 1015 oprion...
Norcos have great storage capabilities but are really ugly...


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> lol, not a problem. An SSD can really go anywhere you can fit it. You can get some velcro and mount it to the back of the 5.25 bays. Might be a little difficult with the screws for those bays in place. Also, look at the pic, this is what I was thinking of in my first post.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Also, you can get something like these to mount a pump or rez.


Man I love that build. Don't remember his username, but I recognize his work.


----------



## adi518

How ya doin fellow Fractal fans









My 360mm radiator adapter is completed:










The fans are attached using pressure, no bolts here.









Lian Li case feet instead of the fake ones:


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> The Midi R2 can technically fit a 280mm up top and I currently have a 55mm thick EK one up there with two Yate Loons. Trouble is you can't use the rear fan's mounting wholes because of it. I was able to squeeze a stock FD 140mm Fan back there and keep it in place using velcro but I had to sort of trim down the top of it and it's still a very tight fit.
> I'd like to eventually fully equip my rig with Akasa Apache fans like my front rad has.
> What I'm wondering is how many rads people can fit in an R2. I'd like to swap my top rad out for either a thinner 280mm or a 360mm rad but the first would be a slight downgrade whereas the latter would be sort of a sidegrade. I'm cooling an i7-860 overclocked by 40% and a stock R9 290 and wouldn't refuse a few degrees less on at least the GPU. Where else would you lot put rads ?
> One of my best friends (and the only person I know whose into watercooling and computers) has an R4 with a UT60 and Four Vipers up front. So Yes it will fit. He even left the ODD bays.


Do you think with a slimmer 280 up top the rear fan would fit better? Is is close enough that maybe even a different brand radiator thats a little shorter would work? Sorry, just dont want to end up with a bunch of stuff I dont need!


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Do you think with a slimmer 280 up top the rear fan would fit better? Is is close enough that maybe even a different brand radiator thats a little shorter would work? Sorry, just dont want to end up with a bunch of stuff I dont need!


If I recall from when I was looking at rads the choice of 280s that will fit the Midi R2 is very slim. Even then things would still be very tight.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Do you think with a slimmer 280 up top the rear fan would fit better? Is is close enough that maybe even a different brand radiator thats a little shorter would work? Sorry, just dont want to end up with a bunch of stuff I dont need!


Let me see if I can find a picture or two that shows what's going on for you







.

Ok found two that will suffice to illustrate what goes on when you have a 55mm thick rad:




The first is quite old and the second is only a week or two old.

In the first one you can see where the fan is placed and where it should normally be. It should be about a cm higher and screwed in place. But the very back of the radiator (a part that sticks out and is hard to see in those pictures) "is contact" with the fan. I actually have a bit of space between my fan and that part because I trimmed the top edge of the fan down (the gap is between 0.1mm and 1mm so it's really tight).
This means that with a 45mm that rad like the alphacool UT45 you could fit either a 140mm or a 120mm fan as you would if you didn't have any top rad at all.
However, unless you use a 30mm thick rad you can't have your fans above the radiator pulling fresh air through it. Mine are sucking fresh air through it which is being partially dumped out of the case by the rear fan (positive pressure airflow).
I could have a 30mm thick rad with four fans on it since that would still be slimmer than what I currently have which is 70mm thick counting the fans (the 30mm rad and two fans would take up 60mm and that would give me a full cm to push the fan up which is about what it needs.

I have to add that these EK rads are quite weird and that other 280mm rads could allow for the fan to be in its right place. I am considering simply drilling new mounting wholes like 5-10mm closer to the front of the case since barely anybody here in France is into watercooling and selling mine to buy something similar would not only be a pitty, I'd also most likely lose money and performance.
I might end up getting one of those small EK DDC Res/Pump Top combos with the stands so I can lift my pump off the ground and have either a 140mm or 120mm rad down the bottom (a 140 would be risky though since with my small PSU it would fit but with a bigger one it wouldn't).


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> If I recall from when I was looking at rads the choice of 280s that will fit the Midi R2 is very slim. Even then things would still be very tight.


Well no that's not true. Which is probably why he asked somebody who he knew could answer talking from experience and not just guessing


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Well no that's not true. Which is probably why he asked somebody who he knew could answer talking from experience and not just guessing


That's why I said when "I" was looking at rads. I measured out rads for the front of mine and was never happy with how tight things looked like they might get.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> That's why I said when "I" was looking at rads. I measured out rads for the front of mine and was never happy with how tight things looked like they might get.


Well you can fit anything in the front. You could push/pull a 280mm Monsta if you wanted to so that's weird. And he was asking about top rads. Maybe that's what you meant. Nevermind


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Well you can fit anything in the front. You could push/pull a 280mm Monsta if you wanted to so that's weird. And he was asking about top rads. Maybe that's what you meant. Nevermind


Hmm. I might take another look at 280 rads then. I'd like to fit one upfront but I have a HDD cage to contend with and I don't think AF140s are useful on rads


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mironccr345*
> 
> Man I love that build. Don't remember his username, but I recognize his work.


His name is ekg84, I believe. Don't see him posting too much anymore.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Let me see if I can find a picture or two that shows what's going on for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Ok found two that will suffice to illustrate what goes on when you have a 55mm thick rad:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first is quite old and the second is only a week or two old.
> 
> In the first one you can see where the fan is placed and where it should normally be. It should be about a cm higher and screwed in place. But the very back of the radiator (a part that sticks out and is hard to see in those pictures) "is contact" with the fan. I actually have a bit of space between my fan and that part because I trimmed the top edge of the fan down (the gap is between 0.1mm and 1mm so it's really tight).
> This means that with a 45mm that rad like the alphacool UT45 you could fit either a 140mm or a 120mm fan as you would if you didn't have any top rad at all.
> However, unless you use a 30mm thick rad you can't have your fans above the radiator pulling fresh air through it. Mine are sucking fresh air through it which is being partially dumped out of the case by the rear fan (positive pressure airflow).
> I could have a 30mm thick rad with four fans on it since that would still be slimmer than what I currently have which is 70mm thick counting the fans (the 30mm rad and two fans would take up 60mm and that would give me a full cm to push the fan up which is about what it needs.
> 
> I have to add that these EK rads are quite weird and that other 280mm rads could allow for the fan to be in its right place. I am considering simply drilling new mounting wholes like 5-10mm closer to the front of the case since barely anybody here in France is into watercooling and selling mine to buy something similar would not only be a pitty, I'd also most likely lose money and performance.
> I might end up getting one of those small EK DDC Res/Pump Top combos with the stands so I can lift my pump off the ground and have either a 140mm or 120mm rad down the bottom (a 140 would be risky though since with my small PSU it would fit but with a bigger one it wouldn't).


Thank you so much! Your post is helpful to me in so many ways with those pics as your setup is so much like what I am looking to do. Thats a 250 res, yes? I was hoping to squeeze everything leaving the odd bay intact for a aquaero 5lt,but it looks to be like no way? Unless maybe I go with a shorter res...still so much to do!


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> His name is ekg84, I believe. Don't see him posting too much anymore.


Too bad, tha'ts a nice build.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Ok found two that will suffice to illustrate what goes on when you have a 55mm thick rad:


Ya see, I was measuring with the optical bay still installed. Not something I can remove with my fan controler and HUE. Though I'm thinking about replacing the former, the sticky backing on the LED strip is terrible.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Too bad, tha'ts a nice build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya see, I was measuring with the optical bay still installed. Not something I can remove with my fan controler and HUE. *Though I'm thinking about replacing the former, the sticky backing on the LED strip is terrible.*


I have the hue in my sons c70 and the adhesive sucks but you can just buy a roll and put some little tabs of it where you need it and it works well.


----------



## Seffyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> The fans are attached using pressure, no bolts here.


Have you trialed it? How are the Noiseblockers treating you? I heard because of the way they're designed, the O-ring has a tendency to scrape and generate noise if they come into contact with anything (For example, your 5.25" drive bar thingy in the middle there).

If you want I can send you the blueprint I had drawn up for the 360mm mount I designed? It works fantastically and looks pretty sweet too, although you might have to grind off the the aforementioned strip of metal to mount it.


With the front door closed.


With the front door open.


----------



## adi518

Hehe.. I'm already pretty happy with my adapter, but thanks for suggesting.









I wanted to make this adapter with minimal modding to the case itself, I'm not a big fan of using a dremel and such.

I heard about the eloop problem, hopefully it turns out ok.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> lol, not a problem. An SSD can really go anywhere you can fit it. You can get some velcro and mount it to the back of the 5.25 bays. Might be a little difficult with the screws for those bays in place. Also, look at the pic, this is what I was thinking of in my first post.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Also, you can get something like these to mount a pump or rez.


Wow, I really like that clean side mount of the HDD & SSD. Is there a build log that goes with that setup, like the size of the material, etc... or even better, being a lazy "schmohawk", to quote Larry David, is there a CAD file or something I could give to a laser cutting shop so I could just order the part?









Otherwise, I'm looking at either purchasing or building my own version of this



It allows for mounting of both 1 HDD & 1 SSD. Perfect. Then I'd have to mount my little rheosmart somewhere else, perhaps along the side of the optical bay, underneather whatever I mount the pump to, or or stash it somewhere.

Even with all these musings, I'll probably just utilize the bottom cage for now, and go without having a bottom intake fan. It's a process.


----------



## echo27fire

I'm not aware of any plans for that, I've looked. That doesn't mean that they're not out there. I would assume it's pretty simple to make just some plexiglass or good solid plastic bolted or glued to a bracket. It could be as simple or complex as you want really.


----------



## ThumperSD

Is the R4 2.5" compatible without the bracket?


----------



## Ian2412

Hello

after a long time not active on this forum I want to show you some changes I made on my Build Red Warrior.







I hope that I can reinstall the Watercooling as soon as possible. Maybe after christmas


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Just wanted you all to know,customer support is very goog of fractal.
Had a faulty fan in my xl2
Mailed them for a replacement and after 2 days they are sending me a new one to replace.
Never had such quick and good customer support on hardware.
First i went to retailer but they just said ask fractal.
Great support and want to buy more from them.


----------



## ebduncan

So I just ordered some more goodies for my computer.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebduncan/media/computer 2013/goodies_zpsab01dc9d.png.html

Pictures will come once everything is here and installed. Might be a bit since my video card is on backorder blah!!


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I have the hue in my sons c70 and the adhesive sucks but you can just buy a roll and put some little tabs of it where you need it and it works well.


Thanks, I'll look into it.


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric*
> 
> Wow, I really like that clean side mount of the HDD & SSD. Is there a build log that goes with that setup, like the size of the material, etc... or even better, being a lazy "schmohawk", to quote Larry David, is there a CAD file or something I could give to a laser cutting shop so I could just order the part?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, I'm looking at either purchasing or building my own version of this
> 
> 
> 
> It allows for mounting of both 1 HDD & 1 SSD. Perfect. Then I'd have to mount my little rheosmart somewhere else, perhaps along the side of the optical bay, underneather whatever I mount the pump to, or or stash it somewhere.
> 
> Even with all these musings, I'll probably just utilize the bottom cage for now, and go without having a bottom intake fan. It's a process.


The log is in my sig







that vertical bracket is pretty simple, it's just a painted sheet of metal, can be acrylic too.

Thanks for kind words btw.


----------



## hero1

I got rid of all the cages in mine since I only use SSD but you can always, like shown up there. Do check out my build log, if you all feel like it.


----------



## taem

I'm finding my gpu options severely limited by the R4s dimensions. I need the drive cages but to orient the upper cage for airflow, the gpu can't be longer than 285mm, and that's if you remove some of the sleds. I don't need all 5 sleds so that's ok, but even 285mm isn't going to cut it for cards like the amd R9 series; already most of the high end 280xs are too long and the first announced custom 290 is 294mm.

Hopefully the R5 will extend the length of the case by an inch or so to fit longer cards. Or, maybe offer an addpn hdd cage that mounts to the bottom fan screws. I know some of you guys make your own but I have neither the tools nor the know-how. Not the inclination either.

In the meanwhile what is a case like the R4 but longer to fit a long card and keep the cages?


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I'm finding my gpu options severely limited by the R4s dimensions. I need the drive cages but to orient the upper cage for airflow, the gpu can't be longer than 285mm, and that's if you remove some of the sleds. I don't need all 5 sleds so that's ok, but even 285mm isn't going to cut it for cards like the amd R9 series; already most of the high end 280xs are too long and the first announced custom 290 is 294mm.
> 
> Hopefully the R5 will extend the length of the case by an inch or so to fit longer cards. Or, maybe offer an addpn hdd cage that mounts to the bottom fan screws. I know some of you guys make your own but I have neither the tools nor the know-how. Not the inclination either.
> 
> In the meanwhile what is a case like the R4 but longer to fit a long card and keep the cages?


How many HDD do you have? Why not use the bottom HDD cage and take out the top one completely? This way you will still have the top fan unobstructed.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> In the meanwhile what is a case like the R4 but longer to fit a long card and keep the cages?


If you want slightly deeper and similar to R4, look into XL R2,

Fractal Design Define R4 (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x *523mm* ---> Graphics cards up to 295mm in length with the top HDD cage installed
Fractal Design Define XL R2 (WxHxD): 232 x 559 x *560mm* ----> Graphics cards up to 330mm in length with the top HDD cage installed.


----------



## taem

I have 7 hdds + 1 ssd. I can fit 3 in bottom hdd cage, I can get an Evercool Armor to put 3 in the 5.25 bays (not keen on this route, that thing basically stacks 3 hdds with no room to breathe), and I'm still short one 3.5 bay.

I don't want a full tower, way too heavy and big. All I need is like one more inch in depth, surely there is a case like that with good build like the Fractal and noise reducing features.

Or maybe someone will release a short 290. That would be the best solution lol.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I have 7 hdds + 1 ssd. I can fit 3 in bottom hdd cage, I can get an Evercool Armor to put 3 in the 5.25 bays (not keen on this route, that thing basically stacks 3 hdds with no room to breathe), and I'm still short one 3.5 bay.
> 
> I don't want a full tower, way too heavy and big. All I need is like one more inch in depth, surely there is a case like that with good build like the Fractal and noise reducing features.


Look into Nanoxia cases, they seem very similar to Fractal in a lot of aspects,

Nanoxia NXDS2B Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $89.99, according to the following video with the hdd cages installed you have room for videocards up to 345mm, only downside no rotation of the hdd cage/bracket, but fan mount on the front and back of the hdd cage, can handle 7x 3.5 or 2.5 hdds and still on mid tower factor.
.


----------



## Pip Boy

They dropped the paint quality a little but that is clearly been commissioned for fractal design (well they are a design house after all) and used the same production and tooling factory. Its a cheaper version of the R4

My bro has one of those, apparently the cooling isn't too great overall but it is quiet.


----------



## taem

Thanks for the deep silence tip. I recall reading a review but I thought the Define R4 superior, still do, but that one might give me more gpu options, though the cooling setup isn't what I like. Is it meant to run in negative pressure if you air cool?


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Question for you Define R4 users. Is it possible to fit a 360 rad in the front with the 5.25 bay taken out? I looked a the dimensions for both and it seems possible but from the pics I see with 240 rads it doesn't look like there's enough room.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> Question for you Define R4 users. Is it possible to fit a 360 rad in the front with the 5.25 bay taken out? I looked a the dimensions for both and it seems possible but from the pics I see with 240 rads it doesn't look like there's enough room.


Possible, but not without some modding. Look in my log.


----------



## RnRollie

A note to all those who have problems with a top rad/fan combo clashing with the rear fan.

Nothing is stopping you from mounting the rear fan on the OUTSIDE
And if you get something "fancy" like at Bitfenix Spectre Pro it doesn't have look "weird"
Note that cutting out the rear mesh will help with wiring (& airflow)


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> A note to all those who have problems with a top rad/fan combo clashing with the rear fan.
> 
> Nothing is stopping you from mounting the rear fan on the OUTSIDE
> And if you get something "fancy" like at Bitfenix Spectre Pro it doesn't have look "weird"
> Note that cutting out the rear mesh will help with wiring (& airflow)


In my case, I'm creating a 140mm adapter that off-sets a rear 120mm towards the bottom, there's an inch there that helps creating clearance from the top.


----------



## passinos

Fractal Customer Support is awesome. I Lost my front filter and shipped a brand new one to me free of charge.


----------



## adi518

Yes.. they ship some stuff right from Sweden, without asking stupid questions.. this is why I support this company.


----------



## roleki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Yes.. they ship some stuff right from Sweden, without asking stupid questions.. this is why I support this company.


I dunno, you ask me, I think their customer service is overrated. I told them all I had was the filter and they refused to ship me a new R4.

Because of them, I had to go out and BUY an R4 to go along with my Define Mini.


----------



## adi518

Sorry, I didn't understand what exactly happened... you can't expect them to ship a new case, that's something you need to request from the retailer.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Sorry, I didn't understand what exactly happened... you can't expect them to ship a new case, that's something you need to request from the retailer.


I think that was a joke


----------



## adi518

Yes, I wasn't smart enough to pick it up at first.


----------



## NiKa

My Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 build..

Previous Housing: Bitfenix Prodigy...
Why Change: New Gfx Card wouldnt fit inside... (Palit Jetstream 770gtx 2gb) - was messing with the usb3 side panel port

In my opinion one of the biggest disadvantages of Prodigy is the side panel that is close to the Gfx Card... one should choose one that actually blows the air out of the case - or a watercooled one (Kraken g10)

Nevertheless... my new case

Build:

Core i7 4470K
Asus Z77 Deluxe Mini itx
Noctua DH14
Palit Jetstream 770 gtx 2gb...
1 Samsung SATA 840 128gb
1 Western Digital 2.5 1tb blue
Seasonic 520 MII



Impressions..
SILENT...








COOL...







(system, gfx card, cpu) - Lower then Prodigy.. (fans run at lower setting)
I could fit the Noctua DH14
I could fit a long graphics card as the Palit Jetstream
has a fan controller

What i didnt like (really those are glitches)
a) front USB3 cable is not long enough to reach a mini itx board - I have to use extension - but i didnt







(i use an extension cable from a back port)
b) maybe 0.5cm wider (back of the motherboard) would help cable management...

Overall...
REALLY HAPPY WITH MY PURCHASE....!!!
Grats on Fractal Design.....!!!!!


----------



## TaylorBosse

Proud to say I will be joining the Fractal family not once, but twice this week..

Case 1: Home Server (Media, Automated Backups,RDP etc)
Core 3000 Case
AMD A8-6600K APU
MSI FM2-A75MA-E35 Motherboard
8GB Corsair XMS3 RAM
2x2TB Caviar Green Drives
Silverstone 400W PSU
2nd NIC

After slapping all the hardware together I realized I didnt have an Optical Drive to load Windows onto the machine (I never have any luck with Windows installs from USB for whatever reason..)
So that meant I had to take the Blu Ray drive out of my main rig (Lian Li PC-Q08B) and for any of you who are familiar with this case it is no simple task.

Ended up getting ticked off and throwing down my nerd rage and long story short ended up ripping the PCI-E slot right off the pins, which forced me to buy a new board, and realize I NEVER want to go M-ITX again as long as I live..

So the main rig will now consist of

R4 with alumin front and window
MSI Z87-GD45 Motherboard
4770K CPU
16GB Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB)
OCZ ZT750 Full Modular PSU
256GB Samsung 830 SSD
GTX670 FTW GPU

Nothing makes me happier than building 2 PC's for my self in one week though!









Pics ASAP


----------



## donhkzjeronc

hallo, this is my first first visit here








I have some questions about compatibility for this case. Can Arc mini support cooler like H100 and my psu ss-x750?
I'm afraid they can't suit there because of size, but i'm sure it'll suit gtx780.
Honestly I also like obsidian 350d but it just provide 2 Internal 3.5" Drive Bays








Any come up with windowed side on arc mini?

thanks guys


----------



## packerbackermk

This is my build as it stands. All that is left to do is find a way to support my sagging 780 without effecting the aesthetics.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> 
> This is my build as it stands. All that is left to do is find a way to support my sagging 780 without effecting the aesthetics.


looks good any reason for not doing push pull on the front rad?


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> looks good any reason for not doing push pull on the front rad?


I didn't want the added noise of more fans. It's a possible future upgrade. I only recently added the rear exhaust, there was just too much hot air sitting in the case, all the non water cooled parts were running hotter than you would usually see.


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> 
> This is my build as it stands. All that is left to do is find a way to support my sagging 780 without effecting the aesthetics.


Nice build!







What Size rad up front?


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> Nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Size rad up front?


That's definitely a 280mm


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> That's definitely a 280mm


Correct, it is a 280. I modded the front fan bracket so I could fit it in there.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> 
> This is my build as it stands. All that is left to do is find a way to support my sagging 780 without effecting the aesthetics.


Adding fans in push/pull wouldnt add too much noise or none if the rad/fan setup was ideal.
It does vary on the fan and rad used.
When i did P/P there was no difference in noise, as the rad was a low FPI. But was able to get better overall temps by using lower speed fans.


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> 
> This is my build as it stands. *All that is left to do is find a way to support my sagging 780 without effecting the aesthetics*.


I hope you can spot the solution in this pic

http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/media/IMG_0048_zps688fd336.jpg.html

P.S. 1/2 acrylic pipe inside of 3/4 tubing fits great or just spare tubing cut to size


Spoiler: better view


----------



## ebduncan

I have the Arc Midi Rev 1.0.

Bit different of a case, but similar setup with radiators. I have a RX 240 up top in push only (Corsair SP 120's @ 7volts) then I have a Alphacool XT 45 280mm radiator up front, in push/pull with XSPC 140mm 1450rpm radiator fans.

I also have a Corsair AF140 as rear exhaust, and another AF140 as intake on the side panel

The Corsair SP120's are the loudest fan even at 7 Volts. Computer is still whisper quiet. If I had a DB meter it would be under 30 at few inches away.

I was running just push only on the 280, but upgraded to push pull and I saw average liquid temp drop 3-4C So rather nice improvement with no extra noise added.


----------



## Seffyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> Question for you Define R4 users. Is it possible to fit a 360 rad in the front with the 5.25 bay taken out? I looked a the dimensions for both and it seems possible but from the pics I see with 240 rads it doesn't look like there's enough room.


Yup, with a tad bit o'modding. If you look a little earlier in the thread I modded my front panel so that a 360mm rad will fit there (When I have the funds to watercool).


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> Correct, it is a 280. I modded the front fan bracket so I could fit it in there.


Thanks, that's what I thought.







.


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolhandluke41*
> 
> I hope you can spot the solution in this pic
> 
> http://s774.photobucket.com/user/coolhand_SS/media/IMG_0048_zps688fd336.jpg.html
> 
> P.S. 1/2 acrylic pipe inside of 3/4 tubing fits great or just spare tubing cut to size


Thanks a lot for the idea! I just need to get some pvc. Thats a good solution, better than any I've seen so far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Adding fans in push/pull wouldnt add too much noise or none if the rad/fan setup was ideal.
> It does vary on the fan and rad used.
> When i did P/P there was no difference in noise, as the rad was a low FPI. But was able to get better overall temps by using lower speed fans.


My temps are great right now even when folding. In a warm room CPU sits at around 65c and the 780 runs around 45c when stressed.


----------



## ZeVo

So, my question a week ago didn't get answered so maybe someone can help me.

For those of you that have your HDD cages removed (both) and have a HDD, where do you guys mount it? If it's in the 5.25 bay, how did you go about mounting it? Did you buy an adapter or use the one included in the case? I have it in there now with the included adapter and it vibrates a lot, so it's starting to irritate me.

And an update on my problem I had with my PCIe slots: FD is sending me new standoffs. They said it should fix my problem where if I try to fit a discrete GPU in the case, the back of the card doesn't line up with the brackets. Hopefully it fixes the issue. If not, looks like it's time to get a Midi R2.


----------



## packerbackermk

At the moment I only have an ssd. If I add an hdd I would use something like this because I don't have any space in my 5.25 bays. I would put it at the bottom of the case.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> So, my question a week ago didn't get answered so maybe someone can help me.
> 
> For those of you that have your HDD cages removed (both) and have a HDD, where do you guys mount it? If it's in the 5.25 bay, how did you go about mounting it? Did you buy an adapter or use the one included in the case? I have it in there now with the included adapter and it vibrates a lot, so it's starting to irritate me.
> 
> And an update on my problem I had with my PCIe slots: FD is sending me new standoffs. They said it should fix my problem where if I try to fit a discrete GPU in the case, the back of the card doesn't line up with the brackets. Hopefully it fixes the issue. If not, looks like it's time to get a Midi R2.


you can get a 5.25" to 3.5" drive bay adapter. I have two SSDs and two hard drives. Currently my hard drives are just sitting on top one another on the bottom of the case, just laying there. I will likely be moving them behind the motherboard tray ( pretty sure they fit)


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> At the moment I only have an ssd. If I add an hdd I would use something like this because I don't have any space in my 5.25 bays. I would put it at the bottom of the case.


Thinking like Malik, I see.









If only I could find one in the US. I've only found them off UK websites and shipping costs so much it's not worth it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you can get a 5.25" to 3.5" drive bay adapter. I have two SSDs and two hard drives. Currently my hard drives are just sitting on top one another on the bottom of the case, just laying there. I will likely be moving them behind the motherboard tray ( pretty sure they fit)


The SSDs for sure will fit behind the mobo. Not too sure on the HDDs though. They are pretty fat. If only FD made a little more room on the back it probably would. I've only seen 2.5 HDDs fit back there. Any particular adapters you recommend?


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Possible, but not without some modding. Look in my log.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seffyr*
> 
> Yup, with a tad bit o'modding. If you look a little earlier in the thread I modded my front panel so that a 360mm rad will fit there (When I have the funds to watercool).


Thanks guys. +REP


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> So, my question a week ago didn't get answered so maybe someone can help me.
> 
> For those of you that have your HDD cages removed (both) and have a HDD, where do you guys mount it? If it's in the 5.25 bay, how did you go about mounting it? Did you buy an adapter or use the one included in the case? I have it in there now with the included adapter and it vibrates a lot, so it's starting to irritate me.
> 
> And an update on my problem I had with my PCIe slots: FD is sending me new standoffs. They said it should fix my problem where if I try to fit a discrete GPU in the case, the back of the card doesn't line up with the brackets. Hopefully it fixes the issue. If not, looks like it's time to get a Midi R2.


You can use this. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817997040
Or this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995073


----------



## sampson

Anyone interested in trading their black expansion slot covers for my white ones?


----------



## nitroxyl

Wouldn't it be less of a hassle to just spray paint them?


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## sampson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Wouldn't it be less of a hassle to just spray paint them?


I'm no pro, but _I_ don't think so. They have a glossy paint on them now so they would prob need to be sanded, or ideally sandblasted, before a coat of spray paint would adhere well. Seems pretty easy that if someone were interested in swapping, that would be easiest.


----------



## vangsfreaken

i'm joining the club for the fourth time or something like that soon, i accidentally ordered a white node 304...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sampson*
> 
> I'm no pro, but _I_ don't think so. They have a glossy paint on them now so they would prob need to be sanded, or ideally sandblasted, before a coat of spray paint would adhere well. Seems pretty easy that if someone were interested in swapping, that would be easiest.


you could do that job in like 15 minutes, just sand them a little by hand (you just need a rough surface, not blank) and spray them.


----------



## smithydan

I would look for a pc being dumped or something, take the slot covers and paint them while keeping the original.


----------



## karupt

Is there anywhere on the net I can get a windowless R4 side panel? I regret buying the windowed version


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Is there anywhere on the net I can get a windowless R4 side panel? I regret buying the windowed version


Do not think there is one for sale. All it is on the windowless one is a side vent, which dont look so good.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Is there anywhere on the net I can get a windowless R4 side panel? I regret buying the windowed version


i contacted fractal design and asked for part number to the non fan mounted side panel and asked where to get them. they pointed to NCIX.US
so i ordered two and they were higher than windowed, but that's the rub on non-popular parts.

airdeano


----------



## HoZy

Fractal Define R4
XSPC EX280 Top Rad
Black Ice SR1-280 Front
Raystorm Copper CPU Block
EK Nickel/Copper GPU BLocks
Cougar 140mm HDB Fans
& Various other goodies.


----------



## NEOtheONE1

Hello that`s my pc
Define XL R2 Black Pearl
NEWTON R3 1000
ASUS MAXIMUS V FORMULA
INTEL CPU Core i7-3770K
ASUS GTX 680 DC2 Top
Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 16gb
240GB SSD INTEL 520
Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7200
Swiftech H220


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOtheONE1*
> 
> Hello that`s my pc
> Define XL R2 Black Pearl
> NEWTON R3 1000
> ASUS MAXIMUS V FORMULA
> INTEL CPU Core i7-3770K
> ASUS GTX 680 DC2 Top
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 16gb
> 240GB SSD INTEL 520
> Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7200
> Swiftech H220


is that 3.5" disc at the bottom attached to something?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Is there anywhere on the net I can get a windowless R4 side panel? I regret buying the windowed version


You might be able to flip left & right panels -at least its possible on my (old) ARC-

so, if your right side is out of sight, having a window in something you can not see it wont bother you... of course you'll KNOW its there


----------



## a11an

You can show off some hot cable management action.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NEOtheONE1*
> 
> Hello that`s my pc
> Define XL R2 Black Pearl
> NEWTON R3 1000
> ASUS MAXIMUS V FORMULA
> INTEL CPU Core i7-3770K
> ASUS GTX 680 DC2 Top
> Corsair Dominator Platinum 2400 16gb
> 240GB SSD INTEL 520
> Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 7200
> Swiftech H220


Wow a Newton R3 PSU those are very underrated


----------



## 271973

I have a peculiar question regarding Fractal cases. I have an R3 and love it, and am thinking about getting an R4. I know the R4 can mount some radiators on the front, but most of the stuff I find online is people mounting 240mm radiators.

What I want to know is, *which 120mm radiators will mount on the front*, while keeping the bottom case in its default position (my PSU is long so I don't think I can shift the bottom cage).

My end goal here is to have two AIO units - one on the rear or top for my CPU, and one on the front for my GPU with a Kraken G10 bracket. I hope to achieve this with Fractal.

Edit: to make it clean, I want the Rad2 in between the HDD cage and the 5.25" cage:


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I have a peculiar question regarding Fractal cases. I have an R3 and love it, and am thinking about getting an R4. I know the R4 can mount some radiators on the front, but most of the stuff I find online is people mounting 240mm radiators.
> 
> What I want to know is, *which 120mm radiators will mount on the front*, while keeping the bottom case in its default position (my PSU is long so I don't think I can shift the bottom cage).
> 
> My end goal here is to have two AIO units - one on the rear or top for my CPU, and one on the front for my GPU with a Kraken G10 bracket. I hope to achieve this with Fractal.
> 
> Edit: to make it clean, I want the Rad2 in between the HDD cage and the 5.25" cage:


I have the kraken x40 (a 140mm rad) in the front of my define r4 & the bottom hdd mount is in the original location.


----------



## RiseAboveFear

So yeah guys, I honestly feel the case department is lacking these days, I must admit I was a Corsair guy, but I think the new obsidian series is ostentatious, and their cases seem dated and lost their quality.

After doing endless searching for cases, looking at going with caselabs ( too expensive ) corsair, coolermaster etc.. I decided on fractal design.

Have just ordered my new rig, it will be housed in a Fractal Design Define XL R2, I wanted a big case, that will support water-cooling but also favour function over form. Wasn't a big fan of the ARC XL even though it has superior water cooling abilities. I didn't want a crazy rig, as this will also be my workstation so I wanted a good balance of performance and silence.

In a few months when I can afford it after spending an enormous amount on my setup, I will be doing liquid cooling. Dual EVGA GTX 780's







Looking forward to being a part of the Fractal Design Define XL R2 Case


----------



## TaylorBosse

Just moved back into full size ATX chassis from a PC-Q08 and Im loving all the extra room! 2nd GTX670 is in the mail to be here this week, cant wait!






And just got a home server put together in a Fractal Core 3000


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoZy*
> 
> Fractal Define R4
> XSPC EX280 Top Rad
> Black Ice SR1-280 Front
> Raystorm Copper CPU Block
> EK Nickel/Copper GPU BLocks
> Cougar 140mm HDB Fans
> & Various other goodies.


Looks great. Any other photos?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RiseAboveFear*
> 
> So yeah guys, I honestly feel the case department is lacking these days, I must admit I was a Corsair guy, but I think the new obsidian series is ostentatious, and their cases seem dated and lost their quality... After doing endless searching for cases, looking at going with caselabs ( too expensive ) corsair, coolermaster etc.. I decided on fractal design.


As an owner of both CaseLabs and Fractal Design, you made a good choice. While it isn't quite the all-metal beast of CaseLabs, the Fractal Design is very high quality for the price, well-built, and easy to work in.


----------



## Iniura

I sleeved my Gentle Typhoons AP-15's and it looks a lot better then before

I also sleeved my Stock Intel Cooler lol









Before:



After:



Also removed the PSU sticker on the top think it looks cleaner this way.

And changed GPU's


----------



## Deornoth

It's that time of year again when I break out the dremel and start torturing my poor Define Mini...

Time to put a 240mm radiator in the front! Didn't quite fit initially..


But I got it in there.











More to come!

-- *Build Log* --


----------



## ichiwot

my greeb arc mini


----------



## Jetlitheone

Got an r4 and 4 fans , any ideas where to set them up and which configuration?

Seems like the mesh grills on this case cause a lot of annoying noise

2 fans that came with it and 2 enermax


----------



## ZeVo

Well I personally always go with a positive pressure design, so maybe try two in the front as intake, one rear exhaust and another exhaust in the top back of the case. Try experimenting it yourself too. See which setup gets you better temps. I've also seen people do two front intake and a bottom intake too, with the rear as exhaust.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetlitheone*
> 
> Got an r4 and 4 fans , any ideas where to set them up and which configuration?
> 
> Seems like the mesh grills on this case cause a lot of annoying noise
> 
> 2 fans that came with it and 2 enermax


i personally benefit most from 2 in the front, one cooling drives and one for everything else, one in the back for general exhaust and one in the rear slot in the top for the cpu. i've filled the entire case, but those are most important


----------



## Jetlitheone

Is there any kind of mesh or something I can put in front of the fans to stop the noise of the fan blowing through the grill on the case?


----------



## anteante

Waiting for my watercooling to arrive that i will install in my Arc MIni R2

EK 360XT
EK 240XT
Alphacool VP655 ( D5 )
EK 100 reservoar
EK Supreme Acetal
EK 290X Fullcover
EK 290X Backplate
And to bind all this together i will use EK Acrylic tubing


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I have a peculiar question regarding Fractal cases. I have an R3 and love it, and am thinking about getting an R4. I know the R4 can mount some radiators on the front, but most of the stuff I find online is people mounting 240mm radiators.
> 
> What I want to know is, *which 120mm radiators will mount on the front*, while keeping the bottom case in its default position (my PSU is long so I don't think I can shift the bottom cage).
> 
> My end goal here is to have two AIO units - one on the rear or top for my CPU, and one on the front for my GPU with a Kraken G10 bracket. I hope to achieve this with Fractal.
> 
> Edit: to make it clean, I want the Rad2 in between the HDD cage and the 5.25" cage:


You are going to want more than 2 rad space if you are cooling CPU and GPU. I also do not see where you are planning your pump and res in your drawing. I'd offset the bottom cage and put a 240/280 up front then put a 240/280 in the top


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You are going to want more than 2 rad space if you are cooling CPU and GPU. I also do not see where you are planning your pump and res in your drawing. I'd offset the bottom cage and put a 240/280 up front then put a 240/280 in the top


Quote:


> My end goal here is to have two AIO units


All in one units, such as 2x Kraken X40s.


----------



## Akula

Project Armada
Define R4 Titanium


----------



## ebduncan

why are all your fans exhaust?


----------



## Fester1

I'm building my first PC ever and I'm confused with some issues regarding case fans.

I want to replace the 2 stock fans that come with the Fractal R4 case with Noctua NF-A14 fans. However, I have some questions:

1) My plan is to put 2 in the front as intake and one in the back as exhaust. Is this an efficient use of the fans? I will have a SSD and one or two hard drives. Thus, I'm wondering if the bottom intake fan will just be blowing into the bottom hard drive tray?

2) I don't know if I should plug them into the motherboard or the R4 fan controller. Is one way recommended over the other? I read that if I plugged them into the motherboard, I should get a splitter of some kind?

3) What voltage should I set them at, 7v?

4) What Noctua fans do I get and why: the NF-A14PWM or the NF-A14FLX?


----------



## Akula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> why are all your fans exhaust?


Aesthetics


----------



## Lutfij

Akula! - I love it!!!


----------



## Kimir

This is beautiful, indeed!


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> I'm building my first PC ever and I'm confused with some issues regarding case fans.
> 
> I want to replace the 2 stock fans that come with the Fractal R4 case with Noctua NF-A14 fans. However, I have some questions:
> 
> 1) My plan is to put 2 in the front as intake and one in the back as exhaust. Is this an efficient use of the fans? I will have a SSD and one or two hard drives. Thus, I'm wondering if the bottom intake fan will just be blowing into the bottom hard drive tray?
> 
> 2) I don't know if I should plug them into the motherboard or the R4 fan controller. Is one way recommended over the other? I read that if I plugged them into the motherboard, I should get a splitter of some kind?
> 
> 3) What voltage should I set them at, 7v?
> 
> 4) What Noctua fans do I get and why: the NF-A14PWM or the NF-A14FLX?


Refer to this interesting article for best use of fans. Remember you will get diminishing returns the more you add:

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1

One piece of advice would be to be careful with your side fan. I have an R3 and a 140mm Noctua and it creates an extremely annoying noise because the grills on the side of the case are positioned in such a way.

I think with 4 fans you're best going for Front->Back cooling. I think the Noctuas will be quiet enough to run off your motherboard but if you have issues, use the fan controller to nerf them a bit.


----------



## Jflisk

Arkula
Nice machine.









All Noctua fans are good I have 14 of them in my system and the only time I hear them is when my machine is running a Game. Otherwise i have my fan controller shut them off till the water heats up enough to turn them on.


----------



## TaylorBosse

My first SLI setup. Installed my 2nd 670 today and went from an avg 50-65 fps in bf4 to upwards of 100 fps!


----------



## vangsfreaken

i managed to fit a d14 in the node 304.... it was not a funny procedure, but it's working great







there's absolutely zero tolerance for the rear fan


----------



## catbuster

How did u manage to fit d14 xDD just WOW


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Akula*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> why are all your fans exhaust?
> 
> 
> 
> Aesthetics
Click to expand...

It looks amazing...


----------



## therealjustin

I love my new Define R4 but the vibration from the dust filter is driving me(and my right arm) insane. I thought it might have been my HDD at first but it is in fact coming from the top right of the dust filter area. The oscillation gets bad enough at times that I can feel it through my arm and desk!


----------



## Goof

I've been looking to dump my FD case for something better suited for water, but Akula's build makes me want to consider keeping it...


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goof*
> 
> I've been looking to dump my FD case for something better suited for water, but Akula's build makes me want to consider keeping it...


I know right. I would like to do something similar with mine but I have two mechanical hard drives to contend with in the lower cage. Also, I'm thinking about getting a new case because my cat likes to step on the power button.....


----------



## lurker2501

Does FD have a warranty for their case fans? I have one just die on me today.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Does FD have a warranty for their case fans? I have one just die on me today.


Yeah they do. They've replaced 2 of mine.


----------



## rcoolb2002

@arkula

That is absolutely beautiful. I hope to have my define mini looking similar to that soon!


----------



## Spartoz

Here's my Fractal arc midi r2









http://www.noelshack.com/2013-52-1388319701-img-5291.jpg

http://www.noelshack.com/2013-52-1388319755-11.jpg

http://www.noelshack.com/2013-52-1388320059-m.jpg

It's my first pc build


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *catbuster*
> 
> How did u manage to fit d14 xDD just WOW


1. install brackets
2. make sure fans are ready (install those bars)
3. install rear fan
4. remove support bar (the one in the middle of the case
5. plug in fans
6. mount cooler
7. mount fan to cooler
it wasn't that hard, i just had to make sure i did it in the right order







although you have to make sure you choose the right mobo, if the cpu socket had been 2 mm closer to the rear i would have to drop the rear fan


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoz*
> 
> Here's my Fractal arc midi r2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.noelshack.com/2013-52-1388319701-img-5291.jpg
> 
> http://www.noelshack.com/2013-52-1388319755-11.jpg
> 
> http://www.noelshack.com/2013-52-1388320059-m.jpg
> 
> It's my first pc build


I'd like to take a look but the photos are too small. I think you uploaded the thumbnails.


----------



## Spartoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> I'd like to take a look but the photos are too small. I think you uploaded the thumbnails.


Now i thinks it's good


----------



## cyclometric

I got my Arc MIdi R2 about 2 weeks ago and have made the leap to it just the other day. I did end up murdering the my motherboard in the process, though. I was trying to "fix" the PWM wire that connects the Rheosmart 3 to the mobo CPU header. Well, apparently I crossed two wires, because I literally saw smoke coming out of the top of the machine.. very pretty, whispy white swirls of smoke, and I was like ***!! I consider myself very fortunate to only have lost the motherboard. So thank goodness for Newegg... the next day I picked up the upgrade to my old board, the M5A97 R2 (not the LE which I hear is not so good).

Here are the contents:
(of course) Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
Mobo Asus M5A97 R2.0
Powercolor 7850 2GB
XSPC Acrylic Res Top on a bmaverick DDC --- _sidebar: has anyone done any of those upgrades, like the PWM one at DIYINHK?
_
XSPC EX240 with GT 2150's P/P
XSPC Raystorm AMD
Durelene 7/16"
Distilled, Killcoil and 5 drops of Mayhems.

Anyway, I wanted to get back online, so just decided for now to put my drives in the bottom cage, but it's a PITA, especially since my rad is also in front. In the next month or so I'll get that drive bracket/back wall thingy put together so I can have the pump at the lowest point where it should be. But this case was a breeze for cable management. I need to figure out my fan situation, too. I've got all 3 Fractal's 1 rear, and 2 top, exhaust, and put my 2 GT 2150's in Push Pull on the top 1/2 of the rad, and bought a yucky Shark Green Monster or whatever it's called, on the bottom. Temps are actually outstanding. Maybe I'll get two of the SP120 Silent High Static Pressure's for the bottom half... I like idea of having all my rad fans being PWM and these sound great, perfect low speed but effective for my EX240. The rad fans I'd like to have on an auto fan control like speedfan or even fanXpert... Oh yeah, forgot to mention... in the process of making Mama-Mobo "fall down go boom" I alsjo managed to deal a death blow to the proud and reliable Rheosmart 3. Double chipset homicide. So if I get extremely ambitious, maybe I'll try building my own following one of the many fan control circuits out there. Sounds like a great idea, right? Maybe not...

I really like the Logisys White Sunlight Sticks, they fill the case with enough light, actually almost *too much* light in places, like I haven't figured out how to hide the tacky glow seeping out from the top of the case...I want to add some UV light, too, to show off the mayhem dyed-liquid. I bought one flimsy strip of 3528 and thought I could cut them up and placed around the tubing, it would be enough... but it's clearly not. I found where to get two of the Sunlight Sticks in UV, (pretty cheap, too, if anyone's interested -- and they don't overcharge for shipping, either!) ... now I can be sure the Sunlight Sticks are bright, but are they worthwhile for the purpose of providing UV? If not that great, my other idea was to get some super bright 5050's either on a strip or I'd solder them into a clear tube, and then put some diffusing material on the top half of the tube, to get more of the general glow than a focused beam. Then maybe I'll put the white & the UV sticks on separate switches and enjoy let them fight it out as I finagle them to my hearts desire.

 

I've got to do some more cable management, and need to cut the huge curve of tubing from the pump to the rad... it'll all get sorted when the drives move out of the way.


----------



## cyclometric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *echo27fire*
> 
> I know right. I would like to do something similar with mine but I have two mechanical hard drives to contend with in the lower cage. Also, I'm thinking about getting a new case because my cat likes to step on the power button.....


I used to have a real frisky cat like that, too... If you like the case, you could just unplug the Power SW and use the Reset button for your Power... that'd make it much harder for Mister Kitty to ruin your day like that.


----------



## Goof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric*
> 
> I used to have a real frisky cat like that, too... If you like the case, you could just unplug the Power SW and use the Reset button for your Power... that'd make it much harder for Mister Kitty to ruin your day like that.


I'm kittyless but was forced to do that because my original AND replacement power switches were broken. Fail.







Didn't care to ask for a 3rd because the 2nd took 2 weeks to come.


----------



## Mitrailleuse

can i fit a corsair h100i in the fractal design node 605?


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric*
> 
> I used to have a real frisky cat like that, too... If you like the case, you could just unplug the Power SW and use the Reset button for your Power... that'd make it much harder for Mister Kitty to ruin your day like that.


Hm, I hadn't thought about that. I will think about doing that later. Right now I changed the window settings for what the power button does. Seems to have worked so far. I'm still thinking about getting a new case for taking the plunge into liquid cooling.


----------



## luminous2013

Hey Guys,

I just got some new parts in my MidiR2, including a top-mounted Corsair H50.

The problem is that the top case filter won't sit flush now that the radiator's screws are under it (see pic below).

Have any of you with top-mounted radiators found screws that sit flush and don't cause the case to bulge?

Thanks


----------



## vangsfreaken

some proper pics of my node!
 
 

it's only a htpc/server, so nothing amazing, but it's still rather decent even for modern games. got a 840 evo coming in about a week, and after that i'll add my storage drives







just have to figure out os/software...


----------



## echo27fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luminous2013*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I just got some new parts in my MidiR2, including a top-mounted Corsair H50.
> 
> The problem is that the top case filter won't sit flush now that the radiator's screws are under it (see pic below).
> 
> Have any of you with top-mounted radiators found screws that sit flush and don't cause the case to bulge?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


\

Yes, I have an H100i and had the same problem. I think what was happening is the washers for the screws up top stick out just enough to conflict with the frame around the top filter and top mesh. I fixed it by putting my fans in pull, and not using the washers, or pushing the bowing area down as you put the top pack on so it goes into the clips. It could take a few tries to do that though, and be careful, would not want to crack it or anything.


----------



## dosmond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyclometric*
> 
> I got my Arc MIdi R2 about 2 weeks ago and have made the leap to it just the other day. I did end up murdering the my motherboard in the process, though. I was trying to "fix" the PWM wire that connects the Rheosmart 3 to the mobo CPU header. Well, apparently I crossed two wires, because I literally saw smoke coming out of the top of the machine.. very pretty, whispy white swirls of smoke, and I was like ***!! I consider myself very fortunate to only have lost the motherboard. So thank goodness for Newegg... the next day I picked up the upgrade to my old board, the M5A97 R2 (not the LE which I hear is not so good).
> 
> Here are the contents:
> (of course) Fractal Design Arc Midi R2
> Mobo Asus M5A97 R2.0
> Powercolor 7850 2GB
> XSPC Acrylic Res Top on a bmaverick DDC --- _sidebar: has anyone done any of those upgrades, like the PWM one at DIYINHK?
> _
> XSPC EX240 with GT 2150's P/P
> XSPC Raystorm AMD
> Durelene 7/16"
> Distilled, Killcoil and 5 drops of Mayhems.
> 
> Anyway, I wanted to get back online, so just decided for now to put my drives in the bottom cage, but it's a PITA, especially since my rad is also in front. In the next month or so I'll get that drive bracket/back wall thingy put together so I can have the pump at the lowest point where it should be. But this case was a breeze for cable management. I need to figure out my fan situation, too. I've got all 3 Fractal's 1 rear, and 2 top, exhaust, and put my 2 GT 2150's in Push Pull on the top 1/2 of the rad, and bought a yucky Shark Green Monster or whatever it's called, on the bottom. Temps are actually outstanding. Maybe I'll get two of the SP120 Silent High Static Pressure's for the bottom half... I like idea of having all my rad fans being PWM and these sound great, perfect low speed but effective for my EX240. The rad fans I'd like to have on an auto fan control like speedfan or even fanXpert... Oh yeah, forgot to mention... in the process of making Mama-Mobo "fall down go boom" I alsjo managed to deal a death blow to the proud and reliable Rheosmart 3. Double chipset homicide. So if I get extremely ambitious, maybe I'll try building my own following one of the many fan control circuits out there. Sounds like a great idea, right? Maybe not...
> 
> I really like the Logisys White Sunlight Sticks, they fill the case with enough light, actually almost *too much* light in places, like I haven't figured out how to hide the tacky glow seeping out from the top of the case...I want to add some UV light, too, to show off the mayhem dyed-liquid. I bought one flimsy strip of 3528 and thought I could cut them up and placed around the tubing, it would be enough... but it's clearly not. I found where to get two of the Sunlight Sticks in UV, (pretty cheap, too, if anyone's interested -- and they don't overcharge for shipping, either!) ... now I can be sure the Sunlight Sticks are bright, but are they worthwhile for the purpose of providing UV? If not that great, my other idea was to get some super bright 5050's either on a strip or I'd solder them into a clear tube, and then put some diffusing material on the top half of the tube, to get more of the general glow than a focused beam. Then maybe I'll put the white & the UV sticks on separate switches and enjoy let them fight it out as I finagle them to my hearts desire.
> 
> 
> 
> I've got to do some more cable management, and need to cut the huge curve of tubing from the pump to the rad... it'll all get sorted when the drives move out of the way.


Are you still using the tinted side window or did you replace it with clear plexi-glass? I can't seem to brighten up the interior enough.... My arc midi's side window is way too dark


----------



## DevinR

here are a few pics of my arc mini r2. love this case and cant wait to water cool it!

system specs:
CPU: i5 3570k @ 5.1 ghz
MOBO: ASrock z77 fatal1ty pro-m
RAM: kingston hyperx 1600mhz OC at 1866 10-10-10-27 timings
GPU: Asus dcII 7870
PSU: GS700 from Corsair
SSD: samsung 840 evo 120 gig
HDD: seagate baracuda XT 3tb


----------



## Jflisk

Both machines above really look Good ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


----------



## HardwareDecoder

here is my super ugly R2 build. Not the R2's fault though.


----------



## rovert19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DevinR*
> 
> here are a few pics of my arc mini r2. love this case and cant wait to water cool it!
> 
> system specs:
> CPU: i5 3570k @ 5.1 ghz
> MOBO: ASrock z77 fatal1ty pro-m
> RAM: kingston hyperx 1600mhz OC at 1866 10-10-10-27 timings
> GPU: Asus dcII 7870
> PSU: GS700 from Corsair
> SSD: samsung 840 evo 120 gig
> HDD: seagate baracuda XT 3tb


Nice build! Also love that wallpaper, could you possibly link that?


----------



## nitroxyl

Happy New Years!









I have a quick question for you guys:
I have a Define R4 case. I currently have a Gigabyte R9 270 card in the top slot of my MSI Z87-G41 motherboard and I'm looking to install a Radeon HD 5830 into the "extra" PCI slot using a x1-x16 riser cable and installing a second 5830 into the x16 slot. Has anyone ever tried using that side PCI slot for a graphics card?

I'm just curious because I'm mining cryptocoins at the moment and I don't want to take my rig out of my beloved Define R4.


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Happy New Years!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a quick question for you guys:
> I have a Define R4 case. I currently have a Gigabyte R9 270 card in the top slot of my MSI Z87-G41 motherboard and I'm looking to install a Radeon HD 5830 into the "extra" PCI slot using a x1-x16 riser cable and installing a second 5830 into the x16 slot. Has anyone ever tried using that side PCI slot for a graphics card?
> 
> I'm just curious because I'm mining cryptocoins at the moment and I don't want to take my rig out of my beloved Define R4.


If it fits then it will work, but have you investigated the performance loss of using a 1x pcie for a graphics card?


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Hi All,

Thought I would post my updated case I've added a Corsair Hydro H80 to cool my Palit GTX 70 graphics card.


I know there is enough room for the cooler to go elsewhere but I'm very happy with the position I think it makes for a neat looking solution and it doesnt effect heat or airflow.

Here is a post of the temps to prove there is no adverse effect from mounting the H80 on the H100, the left is idle and the right is after an hour on BF4. There's a better explination of the GPU thread


----------



## DevinR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rovert19*
> 
> Nice build! Also love that wallpaper, could you possibly link that?


sure here ya go

http://resolution12.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/assassins-creed-logo-red.jpg


----------



## SclerosiS

I have a question. Is it so hard to press the tabs of the pins on the 8pin cpu or mine are hard to get out? Got a phobya extractor kit and tried with it, no luck. Dont wanna press to hard, afraid of breaking the tool.
Thanks,


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAnticitizen1*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Thought I would post my updated case I've added a Corsair Hydro H80 to cool my Palit GTX 70 graphics card.
> 
> 
> I know there is enough room for the cooler to go elsewhere but I'm very happy with the position I think it makes for a neat looking solution and it doesnt effect heat or airflow.
> 
> Here is a post of the temps to prove there is no adverse effect from mounting the H80 on the H100, the left is idle and the right is after an hour on BF4. There's a better explination of the GPU thread


Sorry but those temps you posted mean absolutely nothing as both right and left are idle temps no matter if one is after playing an hour of BF4.
Try to download HWMonitor. That will give each core's temp and min / max / current.


----------



## cls33

Has anyone had any issues with Fractal's support?

The Front panel USB ports on my Arc Mini stopped working so I opened a ticket with Fractal asking them how I could get a replacement. It's been 8 days with no response.







Which is disappointing to say the least.

Is Fractal support normally this bad?

Does anyone know how to get a replacement front panel piece? Is that even something that is replaceable?


----------



## ikkeenjij36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cls33*
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with Fractal's support?
> 
> The Front panel USB ports on my Arc Mini stopped working so I opened a ticket with Fractal asking them how I could get a replacement. It's been 8 days with no response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is disappointing to say the least.
> 
> Is Fractal support normally this bad?
> 
> Does anyone know how to get a replacement front panel piece? Is that even something that is replaceable?


How about holliday season?
Ussualy they respond ver quick.
I had faulty fan in my xl2 and my retailer didn'want to do anything,opened ticket and in 5 days got a new one but no costs at al.


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Sorry but those temps you posted mean absolutely nothing as both right and left are idle temps no matter if one is after playing an hour of BF4.
> Try to download HWMonitor. That will give each core's temp and min / max / current.


I used alt+tab to get the result so the game was still running but I appreciate a record of the peak is more useful!



so here is the updated temps, I still think they are pretty impressive considering I've cut noise by 50% (if not more)


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheAnticitizen1*
> 
> I used alt+tab to get the result so the game was still running but I appreciate a record of the peak is more useful!
> 
> 
> 
> so here is the updated temps, I still think they are pretty impressive considering I've cut noise by 50% (if not more)


Perfect









And yeah, those temps are quite impressive considering you're using AiO coolers and they're stacked







.
Congratulations









PS: any overclocks or plans to overclock ?


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikkeenjij36*
> 
> How about holliday season?
> Ussualy they respond ver quick.
> I had faulty fan in my xl2 and my retailer didn'want to do anything,opened ticket and in 5 days got a new one but no costs at al.


They have excellent support. Must be the holidays.
They sent me a new R4 filter at no charge within a week.


----------



## Goof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cls33*
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with Fractal's support?
> 
> The Front panel USB ports on my Arc Mini stopped working so I opened a ticket with Fractal asking them how I could get a replacement. It's been 8 days with no response.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which is disappointing to say the least.
> 
> Is Fractal support normally this bad?
> 
> Does anyone know how to get a replacement front panel piece? Is that even something that is replaceable?


They were quick to respond to me, but my replacement front panel took 2-3 weeks to ship. I had to send them pics of what was broken. It's strange to hear how easy it is for some to receive parts when it was pretty strenuous for me.


----------



## boy005

Hi all,
after prodigy I want to buy again FD, so i pick Arc mini R2 - and put something inside









* at this moment Intel i5-4670
* Asus Gryphon Z87 + Armor kit
* Raijintek Ereboss (passive)
* Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x4GB
* SSD and HDD behind MBO
* Asus 7770 DC
* fans - low (5V)
**BitFenix Alchemy Multi-sleeved Cables

http://s353.photobucket.com/user/boy005_H/media/PCE 2013-2014/Camera360_2013_12_26_033627.png.html
http://s353.photobucket.com/user/boy005_H/media/PCE 2013-2014/ereboss-.png.html


----------



## DevinR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boy005*
> 
> Hi all,
> after prodigy I want to buy again FD, so i pick Arc mini R2 - and put something inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * at this moment Intel i5-4670
> * Asus Gryphon Z87 + Armor kit
> * Raijintek Ereboss (passive)
> * Corsair Vengeance Pro 2x4GB
> * SSD and HDD behind MBO
> * Asus 7770 DC
> * fans - low (5V)
> **BitFenix Alchemy Multi-sleeved Cables
> 
> http://s353.photobucket.com/user/boy005_H/media/PCE 2013-2014/Camera360_2013_12_26_033627.png.html
> http://s353.photobucket.com/user/boy005_H/media/PCE 2013-2014/ereboss-.png.html


nice! any plans to put it under water?


----------



## boy005

At this moment, no - just air..but in the future when K comes, maybe


----------



## watchthisspace

Forgive me if this has been asked and answered before, I swear I did try the search function!

*Can the Arc Midi R2 support either the Corsair H110 or NZXT Kraken x60 without modding at the top of the case, or front?*

I've currently got an Antec 1100 which is a great case, but I've concluded it's too big for me and on the noisy side with the top fan on it.

My eyes are set on the Arc Midi R2 and kitting it out with some Noctua 140mm Fans for a silent rig. I'll probably add my blue L.E.D lighting kit to give it a little bit of style.

Thanks in advanced!


----------



## jusutus

Still a lot to do, but getting there. This is the first PC I've built so a lot of time has been spent studying.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jusutus*
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot to do, but getting there. This is the first PC I've built so a lot of time has been spent studying.


Nice work. Like the XSPC rad stand. Somewhat reminds me of my own build, except that I have a single 420 up top.


----------



## Iniura

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jusutus*
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot to do, but getting there. This is the first PC I've built so a lot of time has been spent studying.






Nice Rig. I am planning something similar what Alphacool radiator is that in the front 280 Monsta or 280 UT60?


----------



## TSXmike

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jusutus*
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot to do, but getting there. This is the first PC I've built so a lot of time has been spent studying.






really dig the all black!


----------



## jusutus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> 
> Nice Rig. I am planning something similar what Alphacool radiator is that in the front 280 Monsta or 280 UT60?


Thanks folks. That's a 280 Monsta on the front.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jusutus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot to do, but getting there. This is the first PC I've built so a lot of time has been spent studying.


Ah, I love it. This was my original vision when putting together my Arc Midi, but it kinda went awry. What is your rear exhaust fan?


----------



## Draninus

First post!

My new build is based around the Fractal Design Node 605.


----------



## Draninus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Foolsmasher*
> 
> Anyone here tried watercooling in a Node 605? I'm getting an urge to try to build a badass watercooled gaming HTPC


I'm in the planning stages of mine. All I have at this point is the case. We'll see what the future brings but right now it looks like the case will need some modifications in order to liquid cool. I'm completely okay with that, I like my projects to be a little different.


----------



## jusutus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Ah, I love it. This was my original vision when putting together my Arc Midi, but it kinda went awry. What is your rear exhaust fan?


It's a Noctua NF-P14 FLX.


----------



## DevinR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jusutus*
> 
> 
> 
> Still a lot to do, but getting there. This is the first PC I've built so a lot of time has been spent studying.


maaaan the only thing i love more than red and black is black and copper. looking good


----------



## Uzanar

Hi there guys!

Just wondering if I can fit a Noctua NH-U14S into my Fractal Design Define R*3* without major problems?
The cooler is supposed to be 165mm high and the chassi is specified to support coolers up to 165mm.

I'm also wondering whether or not the cooler will block my first expansion slot on my motherboard, my motherboard is the Asus Sabertooth Z77, rest of the specs is found in my signature.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jusutus*
> 
> It's a Noctua NF-P14 FLX.


So you painted or dyed it? Was it easy?


----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> Perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yeah, those temps are quite impressive considering you're using AiO coolers and they're stacked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Congratulations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: any overclocks or plans to overclock ?


Thanks









if I'm honest at the moment I've no need to overclock the puter is more then capable of running everything I need it to in ultra quality







however I may have a play with it later to see what I can achieve.


----------



## jusutus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> So you painted or dyed it? Was it easy?


It's painted, and so are the NF-F12 PWM fans on the top rad and the NF-A14 PWM fans on the Monsta. I had a crappy airbrush which I used with a tiny compressor. The Noctuas can't be disassembled so they are a bit of a pain to paint.


----------



## MiiX

Which would look better on a Core1000/3000?


Help me check the measurements


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Which would look better on a Core1000/3000?


I would go with the round design.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hero1*
> 
> I would go with the round design.


As you may see I am putting honeycomb/round mesh in there as well, not sure which as I have not decided what to put on the front.

If you can:
Help me check the measurements


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> As you may see I am putting honeycomb/round mesh in there as well, not sure which as I have not decided what to put on the front.
> 
> If you can:
> Help me check the measurements


I still think the round fan cutouts are better even with honeycomb mesh. I also checked your measurements and they are correct so you are good to go.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hero1*
> 
> I still think the round fan cutouts are better even with honeycomb mesh. I also checked your measurements and they are correct so you are good to go.


Do you think covering the full length or width is something I should do? I kind off want to fulfill the length because it seems like it would look awesome, BUT Im not sure... :\


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Do you think covering the full length or width is something I should do? I kind off want to fulfill the length because it seems like it would look awesome, BUT Im not sure... :\


I don't understand your question. Do you mean covering the entire front panel with mesh or the entire rad panel? I say use the mesh on the fan holes only for a cleaner look.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hero1*
> 
> I don't understand your question. Do you mean covering the entire front panel with mesh or the entire rad panel? I say use the mesh on the fan holes only for a cleaner look.


Sorry for not explaining properly!

I was thinking to just extend the radiator from its original 360mm length to ~385mm, which is the length of the top area of the case:
Top Edited
Bottom Original


----------



## MPX309




----------



## TheAnticitizen1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MPX309*


Very nice







Loving the colours!


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Sorry for not explaining properly!
> 
> I was thinking to just extend the radiator from its original 360mm length to ~385mm, which is the length of the top area of the case:
> Top Edited
> Bottom Original


The original plan gives you a cleaner look so you should go with that.


----------



## hero1

Does anyone on this thread know how to link build log without having the entire link displayed on the signature area?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hero1*
> 
> Does anyone on this thread know how to link build log without having the entire link displayed on the signature area?


It shows in your sig because you put it in "RigBuilder" -- you can just have the link to the log in your signature and turn off RigBuilder there.

Go to your name in top right of the screen, drop down menu, click Edit My Signature -- then at the bottom there you can turn off RigBuilder details and just leave your link.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hero1*
> 
> Does anyone on this thread know how to link build log without having the entire link displayed on the signature area?


Use the url tags.

Code:



Code:


[URL=http://google.com]Visit Google![/URL]


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> It shows in your sig because you put it in "RigBuilder" -- you can just have the link to the log in your signature and turn off RigBuilder there.
> 
> Go to your name in top right of the screen, drop down menu, click Edit My Signature -- then at the bottom there you can turn off RigBuilder details and just leave your link.


I want my rig to show and my signature to show as well but I don't want my signature to show the whole link, just the title of the build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Use the url tags.
> 
> http://google.com]Visit Google![/URL] So put the link to my build thread after ...com]?
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [URL=http://google.com]Visit Google![/URL]
> 
> So put the link to my build thread after ...com]?[/QUOTE]


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hero1*
> 
> I want my rig to show and my signature to show as well but I don't want my signature to show the whole link, just the title of the build.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> Use the url tags.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [URL=http://google.com]Visit Google![/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So put the link to my build thread after ...com]?
Click to expand...

Put the link where the example says: http://google.com
Put whatever text you want it to display where the example says: Visit Google!


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Put the link where the example says: http://google.com
> Put whatever text you want it to display where the example says: Visit Google!


Thanks man. I did it. Woohoo!


----------



## packerbackermk

Your build log now points to this club.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> Your build log now points to this club.


----------



## hero1

That is weird. I fixed it. I don't understand how that happened because I used my thread link for the signature. Oh well, all fixed now:thumb:


----------



## valkeriefire

Ok, I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on H20 cooling for Arc Midi R2 with a 3770k and SLi Titans. Here is my plan. What do you all think?



I'm looking at the XSPC AX240 Kit for $250 here at FrozenCPU. I will put it at the top of my case.

EX280mm Rad at the front with 140mm fans in push pull. I have to cut corners somewhere, so for the meantime my fans will be 140mm Corsiar AF140s in push, and the stock Fractal 140mm fans in PULL. I know they are not the best fans, but I'll upgrade them later.

I already have 2 XSPC Titan Blocks, so I'm good there.

I'll need to remove the little HDD bracket that holds the HDD cage underneath the 5.25" bay, other than that, will I have any trouble with a 280mm RAD in the front?

Appreciate any and all feedback.

Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> Ok, I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on H20 cooling for Arc Midi R2 with a 3770k and SLi Titans. Here is my plan. What do you all think?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking at the XSPC AX240 Kit for $250 here at FrozenCPU. I will put it at the top of my case.
> 
> EX280mm Rad at the front with 140mm fans in push pull. I have to cut corners somewhere, so for the meantime my fans will be 140mm Corsiar AF140s in push, and the stock Fractal 140mm fans in PULL. I know they are not the best fans, but I'll upgrade them later.
> 
> I already have 2 XSPC Titan Blocks, so I'm good there.
> 
> I'll need to remove the little HDD bracket that holds the HDD cage underneath the 5.25" bay, other than that, will I have any trouble with a 280mm RAD in the front?
> 
> Appreciate any and all feedback.
> 
> Thanks


The 280 in the front should be ok.

My only concern for you is the location of the bottom HDD cage. Which PSU are you using? If it is longer than like 180mm (including room for cables, so the chassis should be 160mm or less) then you probably will not be able to fit the HDD cage in that location. Since you are putting two titans in there, I will go ahead and assume that you are looking for a higher wattage PSU and will likely have issues with the length and the HDD drive.

I'd suggest going all SSD or getting a 5.25" adapter to put a 3.25" drive in and pair with an SSD. The remove the HDD cage and go with a thick rad (like a UT60 or an Monsta) in the front.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> Ok, I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on H20 cooling for Arc Midi R2 with a 3770k and SLi Titans. Here is my plan. What do you all think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking at the XSPC AX240 Kit for $250 here at FrozenCPU. I will put it at the top of my case.
> 
> EX280mm Rad at the front with 140mm fans in push pull. I have to cut corners somewhere, so for the meantime my fans will be 140mm Corsiar AF140s in push, and the stock Fractal 140mm fans in PULL. I know they are not the best fans, but I'll upgrade them later.
> 
> I already have 2 XSPC Titan Blocks, so I'm good there.
> 
> I'll need to remove the little HDD bracket that holds the HDD cage underneath the 5.25" bay, other than that, will I have any trouble with a 280mm RAD in the front?
> 
> Appreciate any and all feedback.
> 
> Thanks


Issue with the drive cage will block the cables on most PSU.
The AX240 is 16fpi which is in the middle, but higher than I like, as you want to have stronger SP fans on it.
I prefer 10fpi or under, as you can use lower speed fans to get the results you want without the extra noise. Plus you have more selection off fans to be used.
I would go with a thick rad up front with single fan instead of slim P/P


----------



## Jflisk

I would see if I can fit a 120mm fan in the back doing intake. Use the top fans in push to exhaust the case. You may also need some kind of fan on your northbridge. Depends on the motherboard once you put them under water the NB usually heats up.

I use the antec spot cool for the northbridge its cheap and works.

there out of stock at newegg but at least you get the idea

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209017


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I would see if I can fit a 120mm fan in the back doing intake. Use the top fans in push to exhaust the case. You may also need some kind of fan on your northbridge. Depends on the motherboard once you put them under water the NB usually heats up.
> 
> I use the antec spot cool for the northbridge its cheap and works.
> 
> there out of stock at newegg but at least you get the idea
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209017


No, rad fans should be intake as the air outside the case is cooler than inside, thus they will perform slightly better with cooler air being forced through them.
Most Intel NB are fine with stock heat sinks. AMD NB are usually better to be under water. I would run without the NB and then add a block if it is a problem


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The 280 in the front should be ok.
> 
> My only concern for you is the location of the bottom HDD cage. Which PSU are you using? If it is longer than like 180mm (including room for cables, so the chassis should be 160mm or less) then you probably will not be able to fit the HDD cage in that location. Since you are putting two titans in there, I will go ahead and assume that you are looking for a higher wattage PSU and will likely have issues with the length and the HDD drive.
> 
> I'd suggest going all SSD or getting a 5.25" adapter to put a 3.25" drive in and pair with an SSD. The remove the HDD cage and go with a thick rad (like a UT60 or an Monsta) in the front.


Good point on the drive cage, I don't think it will fit under the Titan block anyway, and I don't need it. I already have a Silverstone 5.25 adapter that fits 2x 2.5" and 1 3.5". I could put my 2 SSDs on the back of the MB tray (I left them in the silverstone), and then put the rest of my drives in the silverstone adapter. Then I could ditch the HDD cage entirely.

My PSU is a 160mm X750, but need to upgrade to a 850w or 1000w, so I could use the extra space anyway. My Titans are kicking my poor X750 around, I've had it reset several times.

I like your idea of the Monsta or UT60. Are those really better? I assume they should be since they have almost 2x the surface area. Will my AF140s work with them?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Issue with the drive cage will block the cables on most PSU.
> The AX240 is 16fpi which is in the middle, but higher than I like, as you want to have stronger SP fans on it.
> I prefer 10fpi or under, as you can use lower speed fans to get the results you want without the extra noise. Plus you have more selection off fans to be used.
> I would go with a thick rad up front with single fan instead of slim P/P


Good points. I just like the kit that the AX240 comes with.

+Rep to everyone.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> No, rad fans should be intake as the air outside the case is cooler than inside, thus they will perform slightly better with cooler air being forced through them.
> Most Intel NB are fine with stock heat sinks. AMD NB are usually better to be under water. I would run without the NB and then add a block if it is a problem


Okay so how are you going to exhaust the case of the heat that is created by what the water blocks will not take out. Your going to have hot spots if the case if it is all intake or push for that matter. Maybe I missed something in the diagram. Everybody's case is different. Me personally I have 2x120 cut right under my radiators and fans that draw cold air in then pushed threw the radiator. I keep my system at 35C and a max CPU at 55C under full load. 3x video cards never go above 46C max. Holding back at least 1000W at full blast.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Okay so how are you going to exhaust the case of the heat that is created by what the water blocks will not take out. Your going to have hot spots if the case if it is all intake or push for that matter. Maybe I missed something in the diagram. Everybody's case is different. Me personally I have 2x120 cut right under my radiators and fans that draw cold air in then pushed threw the radiator. I keep my system at 35C and a max CPU at 55C under full load. 3x video cards never go above 46C max. Holding back at least 1000W at full blast.


Hot spots are not as big of a deal with watercooling and positive pressure is a good thing as well.

I am not suggesting that they all be intake, but most rads should be. I typically run all intake and then have my rear case fan be exhaust.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> Good point on the drive cage, I don't think it will fit under the Titan block anyway, and I don't need it. I already have a Silverstone 5.25 adapter that fits 2x 2.5" and 1 3.5". I could put my 2 SSDs on the back of the MB tray (I left them in the silverstone), and then put the rest of my drives in the silverstone adapter. Then I could ditch the HDD cage entirely.
> 
> My PSU is a 160mm X750, but need to upgrade to a 850w or 1000w, so I could use the extra space anyway. My Titans are kicking my poor X750 around, I've had it reset several times.
> 
> I like your idea of the Monsta or UT60. Are those really better? I assume they should be since they have almost 2x the surface area. Will my AF140s work with them?
> Good points. I just like the kit that the AX240 comes with.
> 
> +Rep to everyone.


The UT60/Monsta are very good. Since they do have more surface area, they can pull more heat out of the fluid, you are correct. They are also lower FPI which allows you to achieve decent cooling (with the surface area from the thickness) with lower RPM fans, so you get quietness. Especially if you run push/pull, you can get a lot of heat dissipation for only running your fans at 1000RPM or less









I would not use the AFs on rads personally as they do have much static pressure. I personally am a fan of GT AP15s, but the Noiseblockers and SP120s are very good too.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Okay so how are you going to exhaust the case of the heat that is created by what the water blocks will not take out. Your going to have hot spots if the case if it is all intake or push for that matter. Maybe I missed something in the diagram. Everybody's case is different. Me personally I have 2x120 cut right under my radiators and fans that draw cold air in then pushed threw the radiator. I keep my system at 35C and a max CPU at 55C under full load. 3x video cards never go above 46C max. Holding back at least 1000W at full blast.


I intended to keep 1 of the stock Fractal 140mm fans in the rear as a discharge. My fault, I should have included it in the diagram, I didn't because it isn't part of the loop, but it will exhaust the heat from the 2 rads which I assumed should be set to intake air. Thanks for your help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> The UT60/Monsta are very good. Since they do have more surface area, they can pull more heat out of the fluid, you are correct. They are also lower FPI which allows you to achieve decent cooling (with the surface area from the thickness) with lower RPM fans, so you get quietness. Especially if you run push/pull, you can get a lot of heat dissipation for only running your fans at 1000RPM or less
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would not use the AFs on rads personally as they do have much static pressure. I personally am a fan of GT AP15s, but the Noiseblockers and SP120s are very good too.


I will switch the EX280 rad to a UT60 280mm. I measured my case, and I don't think the 80mm thick Monsta will work for me well since that D5 Photon pump/res is pretty big.

Maybe I should downgrade the 280mm rad to a 240mm, and use some of the saved $$$ to get a pair of SP120s. What do you think? Right now I am already over budget, so I wanted to keep my original fans, but I realize they don't have much static pressure.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I intended to keep 1 of the stock Fractal 140mm fans in the rear as a discharge. My fault, I should have included it in the diagram, I didn't because it isn't part of the loop, but it will exhaust the heat from the 2 rads which I assumed should be set to intake air. Thanks for your help.
> I will switch the EX280 rad to a UT60 280mm. I measured my case, and I don't think the 80mm thick Monsta will work for me well since that D5 Photon pump/res is pretty big.
> 
> Maybe I should downgrade the 280mm rad to a 240mm, and use some of the saved $$$ to get a pair of SP120s. What do you think? Right now I am already over budget, so I wanted to keep my original fans, but I realize they don't have much static pressure.


D5 pump is a awesome pump.Ill leave it at that


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*


Not sure if anyone mentioned this, but I think the loop is the wrong way. You want the outlet on the pump not the inlet. Otherwise you would have a tube in the way. Would help with looks.

Also how long are the graphics cards. My case is pretty tight with a tube res, and a 60mm rad.


----------



## packerbackermk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Hot spots are not as big of a deal with watercooling and positive pressure is a good thing as well.
> 
> I am not suggesting that they all be intake, but most rads should be. I typically run all intake and then have my rear case fan be exhaust.


This is exactly how I run my case too. Keep the positive pressure with mostly intakes and have a single exhaust. If you troll the WC forums then you see this is the most commonly advised way to set it up.


----------



## Anoxy

All intake master race reporting in


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *packerbackermk*
> 
> This is exactly how I run my case too. Keep the positive pressure with mostly intakes and have a single exhaust. If you troll the WC forums then you see this is the most commonly advised way to set it up.


Maybe I miss said something before. 2 x 140 front fans intake. 2 x 120 side fans on 240 rad intake bottom of case.1 x 180 on side of case around gpu intake. 2x 120 side top case intake for top 240mm radiator 2 x120 push .Rear radiator top back 120mm exhaust push /pull.All intakes filtered.Only come on when gaming using controller computer. Temps AMD CPU 9590 5.0ghz 35C min-55C max. 7990 36C min 46C max + 7970 6gb vapor x 36C min 46Cmax. Heat dissipation without using kilowatt around or about 1000W . To each there own what works in mine might not work in someone elses. Thanks

I have all this in a Define R1 case. See pics Below

Anoxy - how are you doing?


----------



## destrano1

Finally got my case.


----------



## wilowa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uzanar*
> 
> Hi there guys!
> 
> Just wondering if I can fit a Noctua NH-U14S into my Fractal Design Define R*3* without major problems?
> The cooler is supposed to be 165mm high and the chassi is specified to support coolers up to 165mm.
> 
> I'm also wondering whether or not the cooler will block my first expansion slot on my motherboard, my motherboard is the Asus Sabertooth Z77, rest of the specs is found in my signature.


I have similiar components and I am also thinking about purchasing Noctua NH-U14S for my Fractal Desing Define R3. Is anyone who has already built such RIG or is able to check if the cooler will fit with no issues ?


----------



## RnRollie

@valkeriefire
the only thing i see as a potential issue is the 280+240 or 240+240 might be a bit "just enough" for CPU+GPU+GPU
idle is no problem of course, but under load things may become a bit noisy if you want to keep temps reasonable
I expect loop temps to hit +20 over ambient with these fans at full speed in this configuration

UT45+good fans (push) + UT60+good fans (push/pull) should have this setup around ambient +15

Anyways, "noise" is relative, it depends what you can stand of course, and as long as everything is under the max, all is fine


----------



## Iniura

Guys, when I fit a UT60 240mm or 280mm in the front of my Arc Midi R2 will I be to able to use 120mm fans in between the Front of the case and the radiator or do I need 140mm fans?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Guys, when I fit a UT60 240mm or 280mm in the front of my Arc Midi R2 will I be to able to use 120mm fans in between the Front of the case and the radiator or do I need 140mm fans?


Either 120 or 140 should work. I like to match my fan size to the rad size personally


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Either 120 or 140 should work. I like to match my fan size to the rad size personally


Nice, yeah that would maybe be preferably but I already have a couple of Gentle Typhoon AP-15's so I rather use those.


----------



## bigup

hi guys

ive purchased a Arc Midi R2 and its pretty awesome

im running a H100i in it, on the roof and in pull/exhaust configuration

the roof has a dust filter on it, is it recommended to cut this out of the roof to help exhausting?


----------



## saxovtsmike

Started with this Arc Mini R2 today





Actually I´m working on a braket to mount a 240 in the front.
A Aquaero will move in above the Res in the front.
Fan will be all GT-AP14´s or Corsair 120sp Quiet edition, Tygon tubing and DP-Ultra Red


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigup*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> ive purchased a Arc Midi R2 and its pretty awesome
> 
> im running a H100i in it, on the roof and in pull/exhaust configuration
> 
> the roof has a dust filter on it, is it recommended to cut this out of the roof to help exhausting?


I personally recommend it. My temps dropped a good 5-10C when removing the filters.

Since they are on removable parts, test your temps with them on then pull those parts off and test again. If there is a significant difference then pull em out. If it is the same or not much different, then leave them


----------



## AM106

New R4 Blackout Edition.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I personally recommend it. My temps dropped a good 5-10C when removing the filters.
> 
> Since they are on removable parts, test your temps with them on then pull those parts off and test again. If there is a significant difference then pull em out. If it is the same or not much different, then leave them


Thanks for bringing this up again guys.

I'd tested myself a while back when I only had the CPU in my loop and my temps had dropped 5-8°C. And it was at stock back then too, now it's over clocked to roughly 140% of it's stock clock and there's an R9 290 in the loop which are hot cards. So I just removed both dust filters (they both looked clean but my god there was loads of dust on the front one that I couldn't see before removing it !).


----------



## Beliar

Anyone know a good way to fit 360 RAD to Define R4?

Starting my LC/WC soon and still wondering about the rad i should use. Seem's like im stuck for 240 ish.


----------



## andyv

People have done it at the front. Removing the 5.25 cage and you would need to create a custom bracket.


----------



## Rar4f

Changed filters of my R4 Define for first time. It wasn't very dusty though. I unplugged the fans and took them out, and took the filter with me to a sink.
Is it possible to remove only the filter?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> Changed filters of my R4 Define for first time. It wasn't very dusty though. I unplugged the fans and took them out, and took the filter with me to a sink.
> Is it possible to remove only the filter?


Yes it just slides out without the need to remove the fans. Like this:



Which reminds me I need to clean my filters too..


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Yes it just slides out without the need to remove the fans. Like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Which reminds me I need to clean my filters too..


Awesome


----------



## Jflisk

This is fantastic



I do need to clean the filters though


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> @valkeriefire
> the only thing i see as a potential issue is the 280+240 or 240+240 might be a bit "just enough" for CPU+GPU+GPU
> idle is no problem of course, but under load things may become a bit noisy if you want to keep temps reasonable
> I expect loop temps to hit +20 over ambient with these fans at full speed in this configuration
> 
> UT45+good fans (push) + UT60+good fans (push/pull) should have this setup around ambient +15
> 
> Anyways, "noise" is relative, it depends what you can stand of course, and as long as everything is under the max, all is fine


I debated going with a 360mm RAD in the roof and removing the 5.25" drive cage, but then I realized the 5.25" bay is riveted in, and I don't want to drill out the rivets since I want to to keep my case fairly undamaged. I am ok with less than amazing water cooling temps. If I can keep everything under 60C, particularly the GPUs, then i will be VERY happy. Anything after that is just gravy IMHO. I will be doing some folding on the Titans, so I am very excited to get this setup installed, currently air cooling has my Titans at 80C.

Here is the plan I think I have settled on based upon everyone's feedback. After I get some comments, I will probably order tomorrow or Tuesday.

My only concern is fitting the UT60 280mm RAD in the front of the Midi R2. It should just barely clear the 5.25" drive bay if I remove the plastic 3.5" bracket that is underneath it. Has anyone else actually done this (I would grately appreciate hearing from someone who has)?

Here is my shopping list...

*ALREADY OWNED*
x2 140mm AF140 Fans & 1x140mm Fractal Fan
x2 XSPC Titan Razor Blocks with backplates

*Purchased from Frozen-CPU or Performance-pcs*


XSPC Raystorm AX240 D5 Photon Kit w/6 fittings
Alphacool UT60 280mm RAD
XSPC Razor High flow SLi Bracket 3-space (counts as 2 fittings)
4x XSPC 7/16 5/8 Low Profile Compression Fitting
Distilled Water from local Store
Maybe 2x 90 or 45 degree fittings

Estimated Cost $375

*If anyone notices I am missing something, PLEASE LET ME KNOW, this is my first loop, so I appreciate your advice.*


----------



## gdubc

Your planned setup looks basically the same as mine(planned), valkerie. Someone else fit a monsta 280 up front and kept the optical bays, so the 280 UT60 should fit without too much trouble. I also plan on the xspc multiport 280 for up top instead of a 240. I hope to fit my 250 tube res. with the mcp35x but have the smaller tube just in case. I also need to keep my optical bay for an aquaero 5LT and maybe hdd.


----------



## HoZy

280's work uptop as long as you want to put your fans outside the case.


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I debated going with a 360mm RAD in the roof and removing the 5.25" drive cage, but then I realized the 5.25" bay is riveted in, and I don't want to drill out the rivets since I want to to keep my case fairly undamaged. I am ok with less than amazing water cooling temps. If I can keep everything under 60C, particularly the GPUs, then i will be VERY happy. Anything after that is just gravy IMHO. I will be doing some folding on the Titans, so I am very excited to get this setup installed, currently air cooling has my Titans at 80C.
> 
> Here is the plan I think I have settled on based upon everyone's feedback. After I get some comments, I will probably order tomorrow or Tuesday.
> 
> My only concern is fitting the UT60 280mm RAD in the front of the Midi R2. It should just barely clear the 5.25" drive bay if I remove the plastic 3.5" bracket that is underneath it. Has anyone else actually done this (I would grately appreciate hearing from someone who has)?


It is a little bit of my concern also, I am also planning a UT60 280mm in the front, but fairwheeldrive told me he had to cut (dremel) holes underneath the 5,25 bay to make it fit, he also made a hole at the bottom of the midi R2 to act as a drain port but that isn't necessary.

Since you already ordered your water cooling stuff let us know or better make a couple of pictures of the clearance and installment of the 280mm in the front of the midi R2.
Looking at the dimensions of the UT60 280mm and the clearance underneath the 5,25 bay theoretically it should fit but now I am not so sure anymore.


----------



## steelkevin

I moved the pictures of my friend R4 with a UT60 280mm in the front to my proper computer (currently typing from the MBP) but I can assure you he made no modifications at all to fit the UT60 280mm up front.
It actually surprised me because I was sure he'd have to remove the ODD bays just like I did on my Midi R2 (so apparently I didn't actually need to do that but I didn't want the ODD cage anyway







).

You can place your order without any worries, it will fit.


----------



## saxovtsmike

That´s the actual Plan for my Loop









Both radiators will have 45mm, Fan directions not defined yet, Fans will be Corsair SP120 Quiets

Any other suggestions concerning a mountingplace for the Quickcouplers to my external Mora2 Pro ?
First Idea was to use the 5th expansionslot , but that would block access to the GPUs


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoZy*
> 
> 280's work uptop as long as you want to put your fans outside the case.


A slim 280 fits but not push/pull is all. Check out steelkevin's build.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> That´s the actual Plan for my Loop
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both radiators will have 45mm, Fan directions not defined yet, Fans will be Corsair SP120 Quiets
> 
> Any other suggestions concerning a mountingplace for the Quickcouplers to my external Mora2 Pro ?
> First Idea was to use the 5th expansionslot , but that would block access to the GPUs


you can get away with a single 360x 60 for a CPU/GPU loop, but might have fan
speed/cooling temperatures that might be warmer (depending on overclocks CPU/GPU).
the addition of the 240x 45 to the 360x 45 would give enough headroom with low
fan speeds to keep you well enough in cooling performance.

moving to an optional 2xGPU you'll find that just increasing the fan speed will prolly
get you by and not have to worry about external radiator support.


----------



## saxovtsmike

thx 4 the input.
As the 240x45 Rad is allready in use in my Prodigy (http://www.overclock.net/t/1421358/my-prodigy) it will go into the Arc min, that´s for shure.
Would be a waste of Hardware not to use it.
A thick 360 would be no option as with this 360+ 25mm Fans on one side, gets me 1mm clearance to the quite high Heatspreaders of my Kingston beasts (2x8gb 2400 cl11). Selling them for a 1600 cl9 Low Profile ramkit doesn´t seem like a good plan.
So I´d stuck with the actual plan and 2 45mm Radiators.

Concerning the external Radiator, well the Mora2 Pro allready is under my desk, an in use since about 4 Years or so... Might give it a try with internal radiators only, as in my Prodigy I could keep my gtx 680 + 3770k (both stock) alive with only a 240/45mm and a 140/30mm, so there will be enought surface addition to get ether lower temps with lower rpm, or same temps with an additional GPU...
Going Crazy and 780ti (sli) will need the external Radiator to keep the system silent


----------



## shtqbe

Can I join the club?







Arc Mini R2


----------



## Ookakiba

Hey guys I'm new to this site and somewhat new at building PCs. I recently got a Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl. Anyways, I'm not planning on putting this ship under water, I'm just going to let it use air. However, I'm having a bit of trouble deciding about how the airflow should be going along with fan configuration. Currently, I'm thinking two front fans intake, one side intake, and one rear outtake. Though, I'm thinking I may need to have more outtake perhaps?

Here's the build I have:

AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard
G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB
Antec HCG 620W PSU


----------



## HoZy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> A slim 280 fits but not push/pull is all. Check out steelkevin's build.


No need to check his build. I have a 280 black ice sr1 P/P up front & 280 xspc ex280 pull up top.


----------



## gdubc

Sorry, thought we were talking about the midi r2. Nice looking rig by the way. Had to go back and check out your other pics lol.


----------



## steelkevin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HoZy*
> 
> No need to check his build. I have a 280 black ice sr1 P/P up front & 280 xspc ex280 pull up top.


Nice rig









Oh and thanks for referencing mine gdubc but if people did look at it they'd see that it's not "really" possible with an as thick radiator as mine (55mm EK 280 up top). The 140mm rear fan is holding in place using velcro and is about full centimeter if not more below the mounting holes too. I actually considered swapping it out for a thinner 280 one or a 360 rad because it doesn't feel "right" although it doesn't even look wrong at all.
Works out nicely with HoZy's EX though







. From the looks of it he could even go push/pull if he wanted.


----------



## Gunderman456

Here is my Fractal holding water!


----------



## Anoxy

Nice build. I think that SLI connection would look much better with a silver Bitspower Aqua Link pipe like this though, to match your fittings.


----------



## taem

How does Define R4 handle dual card set ups? I'm debating whether to get a 290 x2 or go with reference gtx 780s. I prefer the 290 except for heat dissipation though. So I would go 780 only if 2 open air high end Gpus would wreak havoc on case temps.

I already don't like what one 280x does to cooling. Kills airflow to the cpu and surrounding areas. Though the gpu itself runs cool because it hogs all the intakes.

I was advised to put in some sort of shield to separate the gpu exhaust but I need the upper hdd cage so that's not easy to do. I don't think I can improve my fan setup, using nf p14s in 6 mounts.

I really think mobos should put the x16 pci slot on the bottom instead of the top btw.


----------



## El Media Vida

Hi guys, someone have a Core 3000 with 240 rad? i want buy a C3000 but i dont know if support it a 240 rad in the front with HDD cage.


----------



## Ar2r4eg

Hello ! That's my Define R4 RIG: ASUS P9X79 PRO S2011 || Intel Core [email protected] || 4x4Gb 2400 MHz Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C10 || SSD Kingston HyperX 3K 120 Gb || Seagate 1,5 Tb ST1500DM003-9YN16G + OCX Vertex 3 80 GB SSD Cache || 4x2 Tb Hitachi HDS5C3020ALA632 || 2x XFX Radeon R9 290X || RaidMax 1200w || Fractal Design Define R4


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Nice build. I think that SLI connection would look much better with a silver Bitspower Aqua Link pipe like this though, to match your fittings.


Yes, that is a nice one. Will keep it in mind for when I change the coolant. I initially had a Swiftech silver fitting which turned out to be too long. I needed something in the range of 30mm and the Swiftech silver fitting was from 41mm and up. I was annoyed to say the least. I wanted something fast and locally that was the best I could find in a pinch.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ar2r4eg*
> 
> Hello ! That's my Define R4 RIG: ASUS P9X79 PRO S2011 || Intel Core [email protected] || 4x4Gb 2400 MHz Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C10 || SSD Kingston HyperX 3K 120 Gb || Seagate 1,5 Tb ST1500DM003-9YN16G + OCX Vertex 3 80 GB SSD Cache || 4x2 Tb Hitachi HDS5C3020ALA632 || 2x XFX Radeon R9 290X || RaidMax 1200w || Fractal Design Define R4


Sory to tell you this and but your PSU is not very good to say the least

You should really replace it with something better when you can


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ar2r4eg*
> 
> Hello ! That's my Define R4 RIG: ASUS P9X79 PRO S2011 || Intel Core [email protected] || 4x4Gb 2400 MHz Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD16GX3M4A2400C10 || SSD Kingston HyperX 3K 120 Gb || Seagate 1,5 Tb ST1500DM003-9YN16G + OCX Vertex 3 80 GB SSD Cache || 4x2 Tb Hitachi HDS5C3020ALA632 || 2x XFX Radeon R9 290X || RaidMax 1200w || Fractal Design Define R4


That is a nice looking machine there.


----------



## Ar2r4eg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Sory to tell you this and but your PSU is not very good to say the least
> 
> You should really replace it with something better when you can


Hi, I know and it very noisy







I think about change on BeQuiet DARK POWER PRO 10 | 1200W CM


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ar2r4eg*
> 
> Hi, I know and it very noisy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think about change on BeQuiet DARK POWER PRO 10 | 1200W CM


You dont need more then 750 watts for two video cards

1000 watts for two thats overvolted

Unless you add another card you dont need 1200 watts


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> You dont need more then 750 watts for two video cards
> 
> 1000 watts for two thats overvolted
> 
> Unless you add another card you dont need 1200 watts


Yes, he can get by with 750W easy. I run a 1000W with 3 GPUs all OC with a decent OC on my CPU as well.

No, there is no overvolting. All ATX put out the same voltage on the same pins. The only difference from PSU to PSU is current capacity and efficiency (well build quality too).

Your machine well not draw more current than it needs so using 1200W on a machine that pulls 200W will not cause damage, just a waste of money.

Having more wattage available than you need (head room) will allow the PSU to run cooler and therefore usually quieter.

I typically buy a PSU that has head room so it does run cool and silent and gives me the option where I can expand my system with no worry of buying another PSU.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes, he can get by with 750W easy. I run a 1000W with 3 GPUs all OC with a decent OC on my CPU as well.
> 
> No, there is no overvolting. All ATX put out the same voltage on the same pins. The only difference from PSU to PSU is current capacity and efficiency (well build quality too).
> 
> Your machine well not draw more current than it needs so using 1200W on a machine that pulls 200W will not cause damage, just a waste of money.
> 
> Having more wattage available than you need (head room) will allow the PSU to run cooler and therefore usually quieter.
> 
> I typically buy a PSU that has head room so it does run cool and silent and gives me the option where I can expand my system with no worry of buying another PSU.


Just dont buy too much wattage that will dop the efficiency

http://www.overclock.net/t/872013/50-load-myth
http://www.overclock.net/t/711542/on-efficiency


----------



## rzepa10

Hi to all








I own Define R4 and im wonder if:
Asrock Z87 Formula OC (EATX) will be ok in my case or shoudl I go and buy smaller
Asrock Z87m Formula OC (Micro ATX)

I would preffer bigger motherboard but I cannot find precise dimension of Asrock EATX and Im not sure would it fit.
12 × 10.1 in (305 × 257 mm), 12 × 10.4 in (305 × 264 mm), 12 × 10.5 in (305 × 267 mm) and 12 × 10.7 in (305 × 272 mm) ??

I would be grateful for your advice


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rzepa10*
> 
> Hi to all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I own Define R4 and im wonder if:
> Asrock Z87 Formula OC (EATX) will be ok in my case or shoudl I go and buy smaller
> Asrock Z87m Formula OC (Micro ATX)
> 
> I would preffer bigger motherboard but I cannot find precise dimension of Asrock EATX and Im not sure would it fit.
> 12 × 10.1 in (305 × 257 mm), 12 × 10.4 in (305 × 264 mm), 12 × 10.5 in (305 × 267 mm) and 12 × 10.7 in (305 × 272 mm) ??
> 
> I would be grateful for your advice


It fits all these; ATX, Micro ATX, Mini ITX motherboard compatibility.


----------



## rzepa10

I know what is manufacturer specification for define r4 but I also know that in this case some
E-ATX will fit like this Asus Maximus V Formula ( 30.5 cm x 25.7 cm )


But like I said before there are some bigger E-ATX formats, and I just don't know what is precise asrock size.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rzepa10*
> 
> I know what is manufacturer specification for define r4 but I also know that in this case some
> E-ATX will fit like this Asus Maximus V Formula ( 30.5 cm x 25.7 cm )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But like I said before there are some bigger E-ATX formats, and I just don't know what is precise asrock size.


Well, the Rampage IV Extreme E-ATX with 305 x 272 mm also fit in the R4, see my rig.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rzepa10*
> 
> Hi to all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I own Define R4 and im wonder if:
> Asrock Z87 Formula OC (EATX) will be ok in my case or shoudl I go and buy smaller
> Asrock Z87m Formula OC (Micro ATX)
> 
> I would preffer bigger motherboard but I cannot find precise dimension of Asrock EATX and Im not sure would it fit.
> 12 × 10.1 in (305 × 257 mm), 12 × 10.4 in (305 × 264 mm), 12 × 10.5 in (305 × 267 mm) and 12 × 10.7 in (305 × 272 mm) ??
> 
> I would be grateful for your advice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rzepa10*
> 
> I know what is manufacturer specification for define r4 but I also know that in this case some
> E-ATX will fit like this Asus Maximus V Formula ( 30.5 cm x 25.7 cm )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But like I said before there are some bigger E-ATX formats, and I just don't know what is precise asrock size.


really a non issue for E-ATX only questionable issues could be 24-pin location of the ASRock boards opposed to the ASUS locations.
whether the ODD cage could be an issue, the rubber pass-through grommets will be pretty much unusable, here are pix of an
ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z





airdeano


----------



## rzepa10

Kimir, airdeano Thank you.
Thats what i wanted to see.


----------



## incog

I like this thread quite a lot, some interesting rigs in here.


----------



## 12Cores

Just built my own 8 core GCN based console housed in a Arc Midi R2


----------



## ranviper

Pulled apart the PC to switch around the heatsink so you can see the RAM, and dust it out a bit. Results.


----------



## therealjustin

Just finished rebuilding with a few new components including a Seasonic 760W Platinum and EVGA GTX 760 Superclocked and since my R4 has a window I also grabbed an NZXT Hue.


----------



## incog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Pulled apart the PC to switch around the heatsink so you can see the RAM, and dust it out a bit. Results.


Ooh, is that a Core 1000 ?


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> Ooh, is that a Core 1000 ?


Yes with the USB 3.0 revision! I think I did a decent cable hiding job given the space in there.







Here is another pic for your lusting.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therealjustin*
> 
> Just finished rebuilding with a few new components including a Seasonic 760W Platinum and EVGA GTX 760 Superclocked and since my R4 has a window I also grabbed an NZXT Hue.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very clean, your cable routing is nice. All my SATA cables are different colors, your photos make me want to make mine look a little more Pro.


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Yes with the USB 3.0 revision! I think I did a decent cable hiding job given the space in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another pic for your lusting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Bit better han my Core1000


----------



## Norse

My fileserver "Njord" 3x3TB 2x2TB and a 750GB partition of OS drive in Software Raid 5 giving me 9.82TB usable

Havent done cable management yet









Dual Opteron 6136 (8 core 2.4ghz) , ASUS KGPE-D16 Mobo, 32GB ram, HX1050 PSU


----------



## valkeriefire

Ok, here is my final plan for my Arc Midi. If all goes well, I will be installing these components this coming Saturday, and I will get to post temps on following Tuesday. Let me know what you think. It's basically the same thing as before, but I substituted a bay res for internal one. I decided the drive cage would be more useful and a bay res would be easier to maintain and be more useful since I can see the water level from the outside of the case.


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Bit better han my Core1000


Always wondered how to fit one of the corsair coolers into this case. Now I know.







Looks good.


----------



## saxovtsmike

my arc mini R2 in the works



At the moment I´m preparing the cables for sleeving


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Always wondered how to fit one of the corsair coolers into this case. Now I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good.


Hah, the H50 is a perfect match for this case IMO, although yy plan is to move the PSU in the front and a rad in the top... Just have to make/get my hands on something to hold the PSU far enough up to fit a 90-degree power cable...


----------



## falcon26

I have a Evga Gtx 780. Will the card fit in the R4 without having to removing the drive bay cages every time?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> I have a Evga Gtx 780. Will the card fit in the R4 without having to removing the drive bay cages every time?


Yes it will fit, you want to remove the top hdd cage to increase airflow.

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk


----------



## falcon26

OK cool good to know....


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Hah, the H50 is a perfect match for this case IMO, although my plan is to move the PSU in the front and a rad in the top... Just have to make/get my hands on something to hold the PSU far enough up to fit a 90-degree power cable...


Hmm, looks like you have the fans switched though, so it's exhausting out of the front of the case? lol


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Hmm, looks like you have the fans switched though, so it's exhausting out of the front of the case? lol


Yep. Due to the GPU cooler that blows are into the front of the case aswell as the side, most to the front. If I have a intake in the front, the temps would increase by ~15c on the GPU and the CPU decrease ~5c. and due to the motherboard not really supporting 120W CPU's, i cannot overclock it, so the temps are in the low 50's on full load.


----------



## Draxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> my arc mini R2 in the works
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I´m preparing the cables for sleeving


What airflow do you reckon you'll get on that last 120mm of 360 at the top? Considering doing this for my next build.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draxx*
> 
> What airflow do you reckon you'll get on that last 120mm of 360 at the top? Considering doing this for my next build.


All radiator

All radiator fans will move fresh air into the case through the rads.
240 will be blowing, 360 will be sucking.
No rear exhaust fan, no front bottom exhaust , just massive positive pressure in the case, and all inblowing air through filters


----------



## Draxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> All radiator
> 
> All radiator fans will move fresh air into the case through the rads.
> 240 will be blowing, 360 will be sucking.
> No rear exhaust fan, no front bottom exhaust , just massive positive pressure in the case, and all inblowing air through filters


I just re-read the specs on the case and it supports a 360 natively if you remove the ODD cage. Late night derp moment.

Are you using the 45 or 60mm rads?


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draxx*
> 
> I just re-read the specs on the case and it supports a 360 natively if you remove the ODD cage. Late night derp moment.
> Are you using the 45 or 60mm rads?


As you see in the picture I cut the ODD cage to a total cagelength of about 40mm.
Will work with my 360 radiator in both orientations (actuall, and final it will be like it is in the picture, radiator ports in the back)
Both Radiators are 45mm , the front rad could fit P/P Fans, in the picture there are no fans attached as I´m still working on a propper mounting bracket.
The case has mounting holes in the front bezel for 2 x120mm fans but these do not work with a radiator as the fans are then offsetted
With front mounted fans the 45mm radiator will move back to about the edge of the rest of the ODD cage, to give you a Orientation.


----------



## Anoxy

Does anyone have a photo of the top of the Arc Mini R2 with the panel removed? I'd like to see how the fan holes are oriented compared to my Arc Midi.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Does anyone have a photo of the top of the Arc Mini R2 with the panel removed? I'd like to see how the fan holes are oriented compared to my Arc Midi.


Could do that in about 10h when I´m at home
The holes are off the center of the case to about 2-5mm clearence to the side of the case


----------



## saxovtsmike

Found @ Bit-Tech.net
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2013/11/fractal-design-arc-mini-r2-review/arcminir2-7b.jpg

Complete review
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2013/11/22/fractal-design-arc-mini-r2-review/1


----------



## gdubc

The miniR2 is a nice looking case for sure. Good to see they fixed the gimped roof of the midiR2, because that thing is just plain dumb.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The miniR2 is a nice looking case for sure. Good to see they fixed the gimped roof of the midiR2, because that thing is just plain dumb.


Yeah, it really bothered me with my build. That last fan on my top 360 rad closest to the front is quite noisy. I really should just dremel the thing completely off instead of drilling holes like I did.

On another note, I removed the foam on the top and front of my Arc Midi R2 and the performance gains are fantastic. I currently live in a pretty dusty house so hopefully it doesn't get too bad before I move in March. I'll just have to be diligent in blowing it out every once and a while, though I think all my rads as intake is really helping keep it dust free.


----------



## Beliar

Does anyone know, what's the max wattage per channel of the R4 fan controller?

I want to hook it up with a EK pump (DCP 4.0) and it needs 18W. Unfortunately my Kaze Master Pro controller only supports 10W max, so i was wondering if the in build R4 controller could do the trick.


----------



## treblesum81

Thinking about getting an Arc XL and I noticed in the reviews that there are a cornucopia of mounting holes on the top of the case for different sizes and configurations of fans. I'm curious what all of the options are for those holes because the documentation only describes the option for up to 3 120mm or 140mm fans, but the holes look like they would support larger fans still. Can you fit a 200mm or maybe even a 230mm fan in the top without modding?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> Does anyone know, what's the max wattage per channel of the R4 fan controller?
> 
> I want to hook it up with a EK pump (DCP 4.0) and it needs 18W. Unfortunately my Kaze Master Pro controller only supports 10W max, so i was wondering if the in build R4 controller could do the trick.


If memory serves it's about 15w.


----------



## watchthisspace

Local PC shop had $20 off the Arc Midi R2. So I ordered one. $182NZD to my door







While I enjoyed my Antec Eleven hundred, I can't wait to set my Midi R2 when it arrives!


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treblesum81*
> 
> Thinking about getting an Arc XL and I noticed in the reviews that there are a cornucopia of mounting holes on the top of the case for different sizes and configurations of fans. I'm curious what all of the options are for those holes because the documentation only describes the option for up to 3 120mm or 140mm fans, but the holes look like they would support larger fans still. Can you fit a 200mm or maybe even a 230mm fan in the top without modding?


Square:
180 mm for sure
200 mm probably

Round with "weird" offset mounting
Like those 170x150 fans
And possibly the CM 220 fan
or one of those BitFenix Spectre (Pro) ... the 230 Pro has multiple mounting possibilities, so should match... IF it fits, as it is 200mm wide & 230mm long
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=36_327

You'll have to look up the mounting dimensions/diagrams of them and verify on the case (using paper real size cutout helps







)
examples:
http://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2536
http://files.bitfenix.com/productguides/Spectre%20Pro%20200mm%20Diagram.jpg
http://files.bitfenix.com/productguides/Spectre%20Pro%20230mm%20Diagram.jpg


----------



## rovopio

im thinking about getting a Define R4 on early march (because that's when it'll be available at my current place)... i'd like to ask about the led light though, is Define R4 power led light that blindingly bright...? is there any way to turn the power led off...? im thinking about getting the white version, and tbh, i don't like the color red at all for the case, so does anybody knows whether there's any way to make the led light not turn on while using?

cheers


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rovopio*
> 
> im thinking about getting a Define R4 on early march (because that's when it'll be available at my current place)... i'd like to ask about the led light though, is Define R4 power led light that blindingly bright...? is there any way to turn the power led off...? im thinking about getting the white version, and tbh, i don't like the color red at all for the case, so does anybody knows whether there's any way to make the led light not turn on while using?
> 
> cheers


Just don't plug in the cable.


----------



## rovopio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just don't plug in the cable.


this is going to be my very 1st pc...

i was a notebook user and i couldn't tell which way is left from right regarding what PC components does and which ones suits my needs. Extensively googling for the past month. so i'm sorry if my question is very basic... i'd like to ask a follow-up question... is it okay / safe to leave the powerled connector unplugged? will it lead to anything bad? does electricity runs through the powerled connector?

what sort of precautions / things i should do when i leave it unplugged? is it okay to leave it dangling around just like that...? or do i need to tape it somewhere on the side of the case? or do i need to tape the end of the connector with that black tape that is used to insulate electrical wiring thingy...?


----------



## Kimir

No, you can definitely leave it unplugged, it's only a visual indication. You can even use it as a drive usage (hdd led) instead of power led if you want.


----------



## MiiX

Is it possible that the roof of a Core 1000/3000 is strong enough to hold a 360 radiator without modification? I really want to "put it on there", but not sure about strength of the Core1000... Instead of 'Will it blend' -> 'Will it bend' ?


----------



## falcon26

Ha got my R4 Window version today from Newegg. Its missing all the rubber grommets  Nice was going to build it this weekend but not now :-( Now I'm not sure if I should just return the case to newegg or contact fractal support.


----------



## Anoxy

Contact Fractal for sure. Their customer service is fantastic, and I wouldn't be surprised if they sent you rubber grommets for free.

Newegg sucks and they charge restocking fees iirc


----------



## falcon26

Yeah I think I'll try that. Just sent them an email with an attached photo of the missing parts. Let's see what happens....


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Is it possible that the roof of a Core 1000/3000 is strong enough to hold a 360 radiator without modification? I really want to "put it on there", but not sure about strength of the Core1000... Instead of 'Will it blend' -> 'Will it bend' ?


if the RAD is straight, the roof will be straight... it should not bend,
unless you are planning to run mercury through the loop... the extra weight of that might put some strain on the whole









PS: dont be fooled, you can NOT run liquid mercury through a waterloop


----------



## MiiX

Awesome. Never modded a case for watercooling before









I can not?


----------



## falcon26

Fractal tech support just sent me an email. They are going to overnight me a whole new set  That's pretty cool support.....


----------



## ranviper

Got out the wife's camera for some better shots...


----------



## falcon26

Nice  love the Blue Led. Is having a front fan a must? I've tried it without and my temps are already darn good. Can having a front fan make a big difference in the R4?


----------



## MiiX

I know that in my Corsair 800D at front/bottom fan were a "must". My temps dropped almost 10C with a bottom fan, due to lack of airflow to my GPU which made the whole case warm up.


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Nice  love the Blue Led. Is having a front fan a must? I've tried it without and my temps are already darn good. Can having a front fan make a big difference in the R4?


I would say yes. I mean at least in my core 1000. Its one of only 2 intake fans my case fits, and it's the only one blowing any cool air over the hdd and the ssd.


----------



## stanimir330

Here are my computer after cleaning


----------



## RuffeDK

I built this for a friend earlier this week. Absolutely love the Define series!!!


----------



## beans444

Love the rigs here. Love these cases!! I really need to make the switch haha.. Running on a Antec 1200 still with all new fans of course. I have to replace my power source for sure though.

Questions:

- What power source would you guys recommend for a future watercooling rig?

I have the one 770 so far and could be looking into another. I run a i7 930 cpu.. p6x58d premium board six GB of ram and just one ssd and hard drive. Few 12 inch cold caths.. I'll probably get rid of them with the antec. I'm using a 850w corsair tx at the moment to power it all but the fan in this psu is about to go I think.

It has a wacky sound that just makes the most noise out of anything in the case and I would like to get a new corsair psu that is reliable (and not loud). Also, do all the new PSU's have the option of disconnecting cables? Without the antec 1200 I'd be at a loss in cable management. 850w Corsair TX has way too many cables.

- How is cooling with the Define R4 on all air? I like how most of you have water cooling, although I would try it one day I don't think at the moment I can afford it (maybe when I'm back at work and not in school). I have a cooler master hyper 212+ evo which is perfect for 4Ghz overclocking but if I were to get the silent R4 would I run into problems? I want to lose the 50 pound tank (Antec 1200) and just go all out on one of these Fractal cases. Arc MIDI R2 looks nice as well.

- One last question about the Define R4 and Arc midi r2. How good are the filters for keeping dust out? I've got a cat so it can get a little dusty in my apartment. My antec leaves a good amount of fine dust on everything inside, I can deal with the fact its there now but if I could stop more from accumulating I would go out and purchase one of these cases tomorrow!


----------



## eBombzor

http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/faq-recommended-power-supplies/0_100

This is an amazing thread for all of your PSU help.

I don't have any kind of watercooling in my R4. The temps I'm getting with my R4 are pretty good while keeping the noise to a minimum.

I also have the CM Evo and I can hear it during P95 but nevertheless the R4 does a great job silencing it.

The filters are pretty good but not as thin as I would like. It'll keep the cat hair out but small dust particles can still enter the case.

If you have any more questions about airflow you should check out this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1041926/how-to-decide-on-a-case-for-air-cooling-warning-pics/0_100


----------



## falcon26

Man one thing though. I got some 120MM Fractal R2 silent fans for my R4. These fans are pretty loud compared to my old and trusty Scythe Sflex fans. I may go back to the Scythe fans. Those are only 800 RPM yet push about 33 cfm. I think the Fractal fans are like 1400 rpm at 43 CFM.


----------



## iRUSH

Powder coated *Fractal Core 1000* build complete......for now. See sig for details.


----------



## incog

DO you have a build log thread or are you just posting pictures?

How the hell do you manage cables so well?

Where are your SSDs/HDDs ?


----------



## iRUSH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> DO you have a build log thread or are you just posting pictures?
> 
> How the hell do you manage cables so well?
> 
> Where are your SSDs/HDDs ?


No build log. I just threw this together yesterday. Thanks on the cable management, the SSD is above the optical drive. This Fractal doesn't leave much room at all for cable management so creativity is a must.

A SSD drive will also fit behind the back panel without any complicated issues. You can actually 3 back there if needed.

Should I put together a build log since it's already built?


----------



## taem

Define R4 black is $79.99 at Newegg right now, with promo code EMCPWHB37. Ends Feb 3. Pretty good price, though it's often at that price so I don't think you need to bust down doors. Still, just in case I thought I'd mention it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352020&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL012814&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL012814-_-EMC-012814-Index-_-ComputerCases-_-11352020-L08B


----------



## Mychorrizae

Long time lurcher of the forums finally asking a question. The Define R4 has SSD mounts on the back of the mobo tray, but of course you have to remove the entire motherboard to change or swap out any SSDs that you mount there. Question is, is there some sort of 2.5" tray that you could permanently mount to the back of the tray such that if you upgrade your SSD you don't have to remove the motherboard to access the SSD mounting holes? Great idea, but such a silly design...


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mychorrizae*
> 
> Long time lurcher of the forums finally asking a question. The Define R4 has SSD mounts on the back of the mobo tray, but of course you have to remove the entire motherboard to change or swap out any SSDs that you mount there. Question is, is there some sort of 2.5" tray that you could permanently mount to the back of the tray such that if you upgrade your SSD you don't have to remove the motherboard to access the SSD mounting holes? Great idea, but such a silly design...


They actually redesigned the mount in the Arc Mini R2. You could probably buy a ssd tray like this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B009EO1UQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1390937657&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165) and adapt it.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mychorrizae*
> 
> Long time lurcher of the forums finally asking a question. The Define R4 has SSD mounts on the back of the mobo tray, but of course you have to remove the entire motherboard to change or swap out any SSDs that you mount there. Question is, is there some sort of 2.5" tray that you could permanently mount to the back of the tray such that if you upgrade your SSD you don't have to remove the motherboard to access the SSD mounting holes? Great idea, but such a silly design...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> They actually redesigned the mount in the Arc Mini R2. You could probably buy a ssd tray like this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B009EO1UQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1390937657&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165) and adapt it.


velcro ftw.


----------



## beans444

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352021&nm_mc=OTC-sho6b0tCA&cm_mmc=OTC-sho6b0tCA-_-Cases+(Computer+Cases+-+ATX+Form)-_-Fractal+Design-_-11352021

Cheap 118$ +ship/taxes for window R4 on newegg.ca for CNDs. I wonder if its worth it or just to go price match with Canada Computers or something. (no shipping)


----------



## gdubc

Someone on here, I can't remember for sure who, made their own that looked nice, but for cost and simplicity,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> velcro ftw.


this all day. Looks nice and clean too.


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> *Someone on here, I can't remember for sure who, made their own that looked nice,* but for cost and simplicity,
> this all day. Looks nice and clean too.


you mean adi518's "the define project"?


----------



## Rar4f

Is the cover that has circles and plus holes in it supposed to be removed?


----------



## mercuk

Hi All.

I know nothing about Fractal so need a little input/clarification please on controlling the 120mm/140mm fans.

I am thinking of buying my first Fractal design case. Either Core 3000 or Arc Midi R2 purely based on their cooling reviews. These cases come with fans included. I note however all Fractal Fans are all 3 pin instead of 4. 3 pin means Fractal fan speed cannot be controlled by the motherboard.

I conclude from this Fractal have designed their fans to be used with a controller rather than mobo.

The spec for the Arm Midi cases states: "Fan controller: 1 - Integrated fan controller for up to 3 fans (included)"

I assume this is not a temp monitoring controller and therefore there is a switch on the Fractal cases maybe something like slow/med/fast and therefore as owners you are all changing your fan speed manually?.

Thanks in advance for any replies.


----------



## gdubc

Yes, it is a speed switch. However most motherboards these days are able to voltage control 3 pin fans, in fact, most motherboards only have 1 or 2 (cpu & cpu_opt usually) true pwm 4 pin headers.


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Yes, it is a speed switch. However most motherboards these days are able to voltage control 3 pin fans, in fact, most motherboards only have 1 or 2 (cpu & cpu_opt usually) true pwm 4 pin headers.


Hmm thanks I will check that out. I assumed the 4 pin was always needed.


----------



## gdubc

The 4 pin headers on motherboards (other than cpu ones)are mostly for convenience of being able to run 4 pin fans if you want but they still use voltage to control them typically. The word is that it is not good for pwm electronics to be controlled with voltage, but I believe that pwm pumps are the only thing that it is known to kill quickly. The jury seems to be out on the damage it actually causes to fans!


----------



## mercuk

This is a mobo I am considering

Asus H87M-E ($93)
1 x CPU Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (2 x 4 -pin)
or
ASRock H87M Pro4 ($83)
2 x CPU Fan connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin)
2 x Chassis Fan connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin)

I am wondering if things have moved on then and those 1x3 pin connectors will now control the fans in the same way 4 pins do. I cannot find anything on either Fractals or ASRocks website regarding this.

My concern is a Fractal 3pin fan pluged into a mobo will simply run at full speed with no control.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The 4 pin headers on motherboards (other than cpu ones)are mostly for convenience of being able to run 4 pin fans if you want but they still use voltage to control them typically. The word is that it is not good for pwm electronics to be controlled with voltage, but I believe that pwm pumps are the only thing that it is known to kill quickly. The jury seems to be out on the damage it actually causes to fans!


I sent mail to Noctua asking if there was any downside to controlling their PWM fans via voltage, including fan lifetime, and all their reply said was that I wouldn't be able to run it at as low of a speed as PWM controlled.

BTW. You can control a 4 pin PWM fan from a three pin header with voltage control. Why they made those non-PWM voltage controlled headers 4 pin must be marketing. I don't know of a reason.


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> BTW. You can control a 4 pin PWM fan from a three pin header with voltage control. Why they made those non-PWM voltage controlled headers 4 pin must be marketing. I don't know of a reason.


All the Fractal fans are 3 pin only. i am still non the wiser if the above boards would definately be able to control fan speed or not. From previous experience, being only 3 pin fans , they will simply run constantly @100% speed if connected to the mobo.


----------



## Mysticode

Looking to buy a cheap air-cooled , so the Core 3000 came up in my radar. Is there anything I should know of some main agreed upon negatives surrounding this case?


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> All the Fractal fans are 3 pin only. i am still non the wiser if the above boards would definately be able to control fan speed or not. From previous experience, being only 3 pin fans , they will simply run constantly @100% speed if connected to the mobo.


Looking at the manual, that Asus board has a CPU and two chassis FAN PWM headers. Apparently they are all truly PWM.
If it is like other Asus MB, it can detect whether a 4 or 3 pin is fan is connected, and use either PWM or Voltage to vary the rpm.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66283p=579280

Whether this MB does that I am not sure. But probably.

EDIT:

Indeed, at least for the CPU fan header for that Asus MB, it has such a switch as you can see in this image:

http://elchapuzasinformatico.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Asus-H87M-Pro-15.jpg

pretty clever

I imagine it is the same for the chassis fan

Oops, I take that back. That image was for the H87M-Pro-15. Here is the image for the HM78-E. It doesn't appear to have such a switch, and I didn't come across anything in the manual that allowed you to set PWM vs voltage control in the BIOS, though I might have missed it.

http://content.hwigroup.net/images/products/xl/186839/2/asus_h87me.jpg


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> This is a mobo I am considering
> 
> Asus H87M-E ($93)
> 1 x CPU Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin)
> 2 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (2 x 4 -pin)
> or
> ASRock H87M Pro4 ($83)
> 2 x CPU Fan connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin)
> 2 x Chassis Fan connectors (1 x 4-pin, 1 x 3-pin)
> 
> I am wondering if things have moved on then and those 1x3 pin connectors will now control the fans in the same way 4 pins do. I cannot find anything on either Fractals or ASRocks website regarding this.
> 
> My concern is a Fractal 3pin fan pluged into a mobo will simply run at full speed with no control.


Dunno about the Asrock but the Asus h87m-e chassis headers are true pwm with 4th pin being speed control (versus some of their other channel boards where the 4th pin is an odd +5v). But it does not have the physical toggle built in to the fan header that detects whether the fan is 3 pin or 4 pin and the manual states that Fan Xpert 2 only works with the cpu headers. So my guess would be that a 3 pin would operate full speed. But maybe qfan control via uefi or bios works, not sure.

This is why I've gone 180 on this issue and come to appreciate that my z87 pro has fake pwm headers that operate on voltage control, I can still use 3 pin fans. I don't need a fan to go lower than the 40-60% these headers allow. I doubt voltage control damages the noctua fans I have since they come with low noise adapters that operate on the same principle as voltage controlled fan headers.


----------



## GeneO

Yeah, what I said









Anyhow, OP, you see how you need to research these things: MB manual, and if it is not clear, search for images of the MB (if you are looking for a switched 4 pin header).


----------



## Abula

I also doubt the fans will get damage, but its not the way they were design to work, the voltage is always 12V (or a little less with LNA), its the PWM signal that regulates the rpms.

Perosnally i did have issues with Asus Maximus VI Gene and using 4pin PWM fans on CHA_FAN headers, the fans minimum stablish by FanXpert2 were not stable enough to mantain the fans spinning, and they stopped, this has not happen to me with 3pin fans on those slots, but happen to me with 2 different models of noctua.

I would just simply chose careful the fans knowin what type of headers they will be going, 4pin PWM for CHA_FAN and OPT_FAN, and 3pin for CHA_FAN 1,2,3.


----------



## GeneO

Yes, you should know the minimum voltage a PWM fan will start at especially. Unfortunately, because they are PWM, this is usually not specified.

I have been running a NF-A15 PWM off of a voltage controlled header with no issues. The minimum fan expert will go to is 40%, which is 4.8V. This fan doesn't seem to have any problem with that voltage, but it is certainly something you have to verify.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> I sent mail to Noctua asking if there was any downside to controlling their PWM fans via voltage, including fan lifetime, and all their reply said was that I wouldn't be able to run it at as low of a speed as PWM controlled.
> 
> BTW. You can control a 4 pin PWM fan from a three pin header with voltage control. Why they made those non-PWM voltage controlled headers 4 pin must be marketing. I don't know of a reason.


it is not a marketing scheme or false information.
it is the way the actual motor is built. instead of voltage control, a simple 12v supply is fed into the
fan motor. the controller on the PCB turns the voltage on/off in a cycle. measured in a percentage
on. thus you can reduce the 12v supply to a lower voltage setting and get lower speed, but at the
risk of controller damage. as they are meant to run on a specific voltage. lower voltage means more
heat build-up due to incorrect input.
non-PWM simply used voltage 12v or lower to regulate the speed. to regulate the voltage, you'll
need a resistor to cut the voltage down from 12v to XXv. the resistor is very prone to failure due to
heat fatigue. motherboards also fail for the same reason on the fan headers.

airdeano


----------



## phlip00ws6

My Define XL build. Working on a white and grey R2 mini now


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> it is not a marketing scheme or false information.
> it is the way the actual motor is built. instead of voltage control, a simple 12v supply is fed into the
> fan motor. the controller on the PCB turns the voltage on/off in a cycle. measured in a percentage
> on. thus you can reduce the 12v supply to a lower voltage setting and get lower speed, but at the
> risk of controller damage. as they are meant to run on a specific voltage. lower voltage means more
> heat build-up due to incorrect input.
> non-PWM simply used voltage 12v or lower to regulate the speed. to regulate the voltage, you'll
> need a resistor to cut the voltage down from 12v to XXv. the resistor is very prone to failure due to
> heat fatigue. motherboards also fail for the same reason on the fan headers.
> 
> airdeano


I don't think you understood what is being discussed., You don't need 4 pin voltage controlled header to voltage control a 4 pin PWM fan. A 3 pin voltage control header will do. So it is marketing to make it a 4 pin with the PWM pulled up to 5V. That 4th pin s not needed and is misleading.

Obviously Noctua doesn't think you will damage their PWM fans by controlling them by voltage:

thanks for contacting Noctua and for your interest in our products.

Yes, 4-pin PWM fans can be regulated by the input voltage as well, however, you won't reach the low fan speeds possible via PWM control.
So if you your mainboard supports PWM based control for the fans, I recommend to use this method instead of the voltage based option.

Kind regards,
Andreas Karner
Noctua support team

>I have an Asus MB with a 4 pin header that has the PWM signal pinned at 5V and the fan speed is continuously controlled by varying
> the 12V input voltage.
>
>I assume that this will work with your newer PWM fans, but will there be any downside (more noise, less lifetime, etc.)? Would you
> not recommend it for any reason?
>
>Thanks


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> My Define XL build. Working on a white and grey R2 mini now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> My Define XL build. Working on a white and grey R2 mini now


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> My Define XL build. Working on a white and grey R2 mini now


Sweet build. I am thinking of buying a Define R2 XL case.


----------



## mercuk

GeneO / Taem

Thank you for your replies and input. It's been of great help and quite a eye opener.

I have ruled out Asrock due to poor support and going with Asus. It appears from what has been said Asus likely have 2 types (PWR/+5V) when it comes to those 4 pin connectors. Its just a case of finding out which boards have which so i can get the Fractal 3 pin fans to work/control with those 4 pin connectors ie without the PWR. Sadly the Asus H87M-E i wanted uses PWR.

Its a bizare situation.

I don't know why Fractal don't use 4 pin on their fans so its always there if needed, unused if not.

I could always buy 3 new Noctua fans which come with 4 pin connectors but im reluctant to do that atm considering the Fractal case comes with 3 fans included which i am in effect paying for









PS. Interesting post on the subject by paperdoc here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/330959-28-fans-3pin-controller


----------



## GeneO

The fractal fans are decent so I wouldn't discard them lightly. Fractal is evolutionary in innovation. Case fans have in the past been controlled by voltage, and it is a bit more expensive to make PWM fans,


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> The fractal fans are decent so I wouldn't discard them lightly. Fractal is evolutionary in innovation. Case fans have in the past been controlled by voltage, and it is a bit more expensive to make PWM fans,


Perhaps they could offer their cases without fans. Then those that want Fractal 3pin fans can simply buy them.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> My Define XL build. Working on a white and grey R2 mini now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome! I too have Enermax fans in my Antec 1200... Reduced sound dramatically!

I've only tried the 120mm fans 900rpm.

Are those 120's or 140?

I want to try the 140's in a new define R4 as soon as I can shell out the cash. Just hope they're as silent as the 120's


----------



## rob-o

Switched from R1 to a R4 and picked up some corsair parts.


----------



## GeneO

Very nice. I am thinking about going from an R3 to an R4 or R2 XL. Not sure which. Seems too small of a step to an R4, and the XL is only about $20 more with lots of space for future expansion.

Then again I understand FD is coming out with an all black (PCI slo covers and all) R4 pretty soon.

Hey I see it is your first post. Welcome to the forums!

Interesting, how did the HDD cage supplant the 5.25" bays?

--


----------



## phlip00ws6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Awesome! I too have Enermax fans in my Antec 1200... Reduced sound dramatically!
> 
> I've only tried the 120mm fans 900rpm.
> 
> Are those 120's or 140?
> 
> I want to try the 140's in a new define R4 as soon as I can shell out the cash. Just hope they're as silent as the 120's


Those are the 120s. I'm sure the 140s are great too but in a fractal almost anything will be silent


----------



## rob-o

Thanks for welcoming me.

I have already gone though every page on this thread

Quote:


> Interesting, how did the HDD cage supplant the 5.25" bays


A drill and some screws. I popped the rivets that held the 5.25 in place, which was easier then I thought it would be.
I do have the plastic part between the top of the HHD cage as a spacer, so I have 4 screw going through the top of the case to the hard drive cage, also I have the angled part to add side support.


----------



## taem

What is the width difference between the R4 and the XL R2? FD's specs say the XL R2 and R4 are the same width, 232mm, but at least two reviews say the XL R2 is wider.


----------



## rob-o

R2 XL Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 559 x 560mm

R4 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x 523mm

R3 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 207 x 442 x 521mm

The R4 is the same width as the XL but the XL is a bit longer and a good amount taller.

The R4 was a decent change in size from the R3. The R2 and R1 where close in size to the R3.


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Dunno about the Asrock but the Asus h87m-e chassis headers are true pwm with 4th pin being speed control (versus some of their other channel boards where the 4th pin is an odd +5v). But it does not have the physical toggle built in to the fan header that detects whether the fan is 3 pin or 4 pin and the manual states that Fan Xpert 2 only works with the cpu headers. So my guess would be that a 3 pin would operate full speed. But maybe qfan control via uefi or bios works, not sure.
> 
> This is why I've gone 180 on this issue and come to appreciate that my z87 pro has fake pwm headers that operate on voltage control, I can still use 3 pin fans. I don't need a fan to go lower than the 40-60% these headers allow. I doubt voltage control damages the noctua fans I have since they come with low noise adapters that operate on the same principle as voltage controlled fan headers.


Taem

What do you think to this:



Youre using 3 pin fans on the Asus z87 pro which are connected to GND/CHA FAN PWR/CHA FAN IN. I assume your bios controls your fan speeds without any problem, and changes them as necessary?

The Asus H87 has the PWR rather than your 5v BUT the other 3 pin names are exactly the same as your Z87.

I would therefore expect 3 pins fans on the H87 and Z87 to behave the same way. Agree?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> Youre using 3 pin fans on the Asus z87 pro which are connected to GND/CHA FAN PWR/CHA FAN IN. I assume your bios controls your fan speeds without any problem, and changes them as necessary?
> 
> The Asus H87 has the PWR rather than your 5v BUT the other 3 pin names are exactly the same as your Z87.
> 
> I would therefore expect 3 pins fans on the H87 and Z87 to behave the same way. Agree?


No. The 12v power pin on a 3 pin header can be regulated down to 7v, 5v, etc by the mobo to control fan speed while the 12v pin on a true pwm header operates at a fixed 12v and it's the speed control signal on the 4th pin that pulses that 12v to control fan speed. So the 12v pin on my board is a voltage regulating pin while on the h87m-e it's probably a fixed 12v.

On the cpu headers on both boards, the 12v pin can operate at both fixed 12v and regulated 12v; the fan header has a tiny knob built in to it that depresses when you plug in a 4 pin fan, and when that knob is pressed in, the 12v pin switches to fixed 12v and speed is controlled by pwm signal, if you plug in a 3 pin fan, the knob does not get pressed and the 12v pin operates in voltage regulation mode so you can control 3 pin fans.

As far as I can tell the h87m-e chassis fan headers do not have this knob, which is why I'm guessing 3 pin fans can't be controlled by it.


----------



## smoke2

I'm wondering to buy Define R4, someone told to a friend of mine that reset button is very sensitive and you can "activate" reset accidentally very easy.
Is it true?
How is Define R4 in comparision with Corsair 330R?
Which one is better?


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm wondering to buy Define R4, someone told to a friend of mine that reset button is very sensitive and you can "activate" reset accidentally very easy.
> Is it true?
> How is Define R4 in comparision with Corsair 330R?
> Which one is better?


it's a little, round, clicky button. i've never once clicked it by accident.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm wondering to buy Define R4, someone told to a friend of mine that reset button is very sensitive and you can "activate" reset accidentally very easy.
> Is it true?
> How is Define R4 in comparision with Corsair 330R?
> Which one is better?


Do you need the reset button? You could just leave it unplugged. I have my reset hooked into the Asus direct key header, which takes me straight into bios. And no I've never hit it by accident. It's not recessed but it doesn't really protrude either, and it requires a definite click, it's not like tapping a touch screen or anything.

IMHO the R4 is superior, 2 usb 2 ports on front along with the usb 3s, 2 extra fan mounts, more 3.5 drive mounts. The only advantage I see with the 300r is the 3 5.25 bays which can fit a 120mm fan. But I'm a huge FD fanboy, at this point I would not consider a different case manufacturer, though I'm curiously drawn to the enthoo primo for no rational reason.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> Taem
> 
> What do you think to this:
> 
> The Asus H87 has the PWR rather than your 5v BUT the other 3 pin names are exactly the same as your Z87.
> 
> I would therefore expect 3 pins fans on the H87 and Z87 to behave the same way. Agree?


Just wanted to add, assuming you don't want to just connect the stock 3 pin fans to the built in Fractal fan controller, you could use a 3 pin splitter to connect the 3 pin fans into the cpu header ( where Fan Xpert 2 can set a temp based curve even for 3 pin fans due to asus's design) and then connect your pwm cpu cooler fans into the chassis headers. The FDR2 fans are low power draw, 2.4 watts, so the am draw should be well under the 1amp limit even if you connect 3 of them. I thnk that's how I'd do it if I were in your position, since I like to automate fan control rather than fiddling with fan controller knobs and switches.


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Just wanted to add, assuming you don't want to just connect the stock 3 pin fans to the built in Fractal fan controller, you could use a 3 pin splitter to connect the 3 pin fans into the cpu header ( where Fan Xpert 2 can set a temp based curve even for 3 pin fans due to asus's design) and then connect your pwm cpu cooler fans into the chassis headers. The FDR2 fans are low power draw, 2.4 watts, so the am draw should be well under the 1amp limit even if you connect 3 of them. I thnk that's how I'd do it if I were in your position, since I like to automate fan control rather than fiddling with fan controller knobs and switches.


Out of interest the fractal case fan controller.
1. Does this plug into the psu or a mobo header?
2. I assume there is as switch on the front of the case for this. How many speed settings does it have?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> Out of interest the fractal case fan controller.
> 1. Does this plug into the psu or a mobo header?
> 2. I assume there is as switch on the front of the case for this. How many speed settings does it have?


1. Has a molex connector to go into psu

2. 3 setting switch, 5v 7v 12v iirc


----------



## valkeriefire

I finally finished the loop on my Arc Midi R2. I've got a XSPC AX240mm RAD in the roof, and a Alphacool 280 UT60 in the front.

Temps are not amazing water water cooling standards since I only have 2 rads and neither is a 360. But in benchmarks with the GPUs overvolted, I never go over 65C and in BF4 gaming with the fans at low very quiet settings I get 55C on the GPUs. The CPU runs 65-70C at 100% which is pretty much identical to my NH-D14, so no real change there.



BEFORE



AFTER





In Progess


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




I had to cut the metal over the 5.25" drive cage to fit the pump through, XSPC didn't design it to fit too well.









GPU Close Ups


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## dabocx

Awesome build!
Your build gives me hope for my 780ti (hopefully 2) going in this case. I make try to jump up to a 360 up top and maybe a 140 on the bottom.


----------



## jumpman

I can't even fit a swiftech h220 on the top of my arc midi R2 since it interferes with the mobo heatsink (MSI G45 Gaming) and I see some thick ass radiators fitted on top of your guys's case. How do you guys fit it in there.


----------



## GeneO

I currently have an R3 with a Noctua nh-d14 stuffed in it. I would like to improve the airflow and move to 140mm fans all-around eventually and get more room to route cables. Currently I have 3 HDD and 2 SSD, and probably won't grow that. I also probably won't water cool (at least for a while - depending on the outlook of future chips), but I might see myself with something like a Swiftech H220 down the road. I

So I am looking at the R4 for $107 from NCIX, but they also have the R2 XL for $129. I don't need all that space now but I am wondering if it might be worth the extra $22. Does it have better air-flow?

Any opinions or advice would be welcome.

regards


----------



## eBombzor

If you need the extra space in the future, then it's definitely worth the extra $$. The R2 XL does have better airflow since all the vents are open compared to having the fan covers installed on the R4. If you remove all the fan covers on the R4 it's probably going to be very similar in terms of airflow. However what's the point of having an R4 if you're just going to remove all the covers anyway?

So just go for the XL.

What kind of case fans are you guys using? I'm trying to find some good case fans and I can't choose between the Cougar Vortex, Phanteks PH-140HP, or the TY-140/7.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## GeneO

I was thinking, for either, removing the top HDD pod and 140mm fans to get better flow rather than removing all of the fan covers.

I am using noctua - the fans are excellent, but I don't mind the color-scheme


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> How is Define R4 in comparision with Corsair 330R?
> Which one is better?


I think it depends on which features are most important. Example removeable drive bays (fixed on 300r), usb etc. Most people chose the R4 for sound dampening and having seen them both from the look/feel of the 2 i felt the R4 would have the better sound dampening of the two.
If price is a factor however Corsair have been having some good discounts of late, for example at the moment you can get the larger 500R model for just $79.99 (mail in rebate).


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> I think it depends on which features are most important. Example removeable drive bays (fixed on 300r), usb etc. Most people chose the R4 for sound dampening and having seen them both from the look/feel of the 2 i felt the R4 would have the better sound dampening of the two.
> If price is a factor however Corsair have been having some good discounts of late, for example at the moment you can get the larger 500R model for just $79.99 (mail in rebate).


For me R4 have one downside - the doors opening only to the left.
I have a case on the right side on the floor, so it should be uncomfortable


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> For me R4 have one downside - the doors opening only to the left.
> I have a case on the right side on the floor, so it should be uncomfortable


i got mine on my right side on the floor, i don't see the problem... i can easily see over the door, so...? if i'd put it on my desk it would be annoying, but not on the floor


----------



## mercuk

Smoke - this site reviewed both cases:

300R:
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2013/07/17/corsair-carbide-series-330r-review/1

R4:
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/07/20/fractal-design-define-r4-review/1


----------



## smoke2

You're probably right








I will buy it instead of 330R.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> Smoke - this site reviewed both cases:
> 
> 300R:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2013/07/17/corsair-carbide-series-330r-review/1
> 
> R4:
> http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/07/20/fractal-design-define-r4-review/1


Thanks! I noticed with the R4 comparison...

Antec 1200 min speed 49 high 43 low cpu cooling.. I'm running new fans and a new gtx 770 but I don't know, cooling might have gone down only a few degrees.

Compared to Fractal Design Define R4 (Minimum Speed) 60 high 50 low there could be a threshold I'm hitting with cooling in mind. Another 10 degrees would make my 4ghz hit 70's C
Although, this is probably not including a windforce gpu which can increase that temp as well as the stock Define R4, you only get what 2 fans?

Lots to think about! I feel like two 140's in the front, one more in the bottom for intake and two exhaust in the top of the R4 should be more than worth the swap yea? Not to mention the upside down
psu. In my antec it sits up right blowing air into or sucking air out of the case, I never checked what direction it goes but I have to get a new one so badly haha It sounds like a little RC helicopter...

Also, I have been having to push F1 on boot lately due to the fact my Coolermaster hyper 212+ cpu fan is having an error. Anyone else get this? I notice it works just fine, although if I get a system error saying it's not good it might just be on its last legs I guess.. Anyone know of a good cpu fan replacement? 4 pins!


----------



## dabocx

For the arc mini 2 how thick of a 360 can you put up top? I was looking at the alphacool nexxxos st30 but if possible id like to try squeezing in the 45? Anyone have any recommendations for a 360 and 280 rad? Thank you!


----------



## mercuk

FWIW Re. Cooling. My original Fractal case of choice was the R4. Its a great looking case. However my dilema was airflow/cooling is really important to me so that led me to the Fractal Arc Midi R2 instead. The site I posted above even gave the Midi 26/30 for cooling.


----------



## taem

I'd suggest looking at the Define xl r2 before ordering an R4. It's not that much bigger than the R4 and offers a few significant advantages. Longer psu while still using bottom fan mount, rotatable and relocatable bottom had cage, more clearance on top fan mounts, enough 5.25 bays to mount a 120 mm fan, more gpu clearance.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I'd suggest looking at the Define xl r2 before ordering an R4. It's not that much bigger than the R4 and offers a few significant advantages. Longer psu while still using bottom fan mount, rotatable and relocatable bottom had cage, more clearance on top fan mounts, enough 5.25 bays to mount a 120 mm fan, more gpu clearance.


Interesting, 120mm fan option in the top? 140 would be preferable. I have 3 120 intakes in my Antec1200.. Had to change stock to Enermax fans as stock was way to loud..

I think I can deal with one less fan in the front. I'll miss the dual 120mm rear and 200mm top fans in the Antec but sound seems like my biggest problem at the moment. As well as the side window lol.. Antec 1200 has a very ugly side window.









I think I'll get a new psu before committing to a new case. Although, maybe it's time for a brand new build! first gen i7-930 p6x58d premium build here. lol.. I doubt the girlfriend will be as excited about the idea.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Interesting, 120mm fan option in the top? 140 would be preferable. I have 3 120 intakes in my Antec1200.. Had to change stock to Enermax fans as stock was way to loud..
> 
> I think I can deal with one less fan in the front. I'll miss the dual 120mm rear and 200mm top fans in the Antec but sound seems like my biggest problem at the moment. As well as the side window lol.. Antec 1200 has a very ugly side window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'll get a new psu before committing to a new case. Although, maybe it's time for a brand new build! first gen i7-930 p6x58d premium build here. lol.. I doubt the girlfriend will be as excited about the idea.


What I'm finding with the R4, the lower front fan is almost totally obstructed by the hdd cage, it's basically an hdd cooling fan. And if you install a long videocard, that bisects the airflow from the upper front fan as well. It gets even worse if you have a lot of hdds and need the upper hdd cage. A videocard also obstructs airflow from the bottom fan mount and bisects the airflow from the side mount. Basically, with a long videocard like a Sapphire 280x toxic, all the intake just feeds the gpu and the cpu cooler area just gets the hot air exhausted by the gpu. Without the videocard temps are great; with a videocard cpu and mobo temps go way up.

That's why I want a fan in the 5.25 bays, but with only two 5.25 bays in the R4, you're limited to an 80mm fan. With the four 5.25 bays in the XL R2, you can mount a 120mm fan to feed some air directly to the cpu cooler. I've never tried this config and don't know how much it would help. But at least it's an option in the XL R2. I'm sure you could fit a 140mm fan up there as well but I can only find 120mm fan mounts that go into 5.25 bays and I'm not a modder.

And if you use the bottom fan mount in the R4 -- which you probably should since like I said, the lower front intake is almost totally obstructed -- you are limited to 160mm depth psu's. Not many options, basically an xfx 850w or a silverstone strider up to 1000w. Or thortech lol.

With the XL R2, I can remove the upper drive cage and still fit 4 hdds in the lower cage, which I can move to the bottom fan mount to allow the lower front fan airflow to actually reach the chassis chamber. There's more depth so the upper front fan airflow has more distance to diffuse upward into the cpu area before it gets bisected by the videocard. And I can feed a bit more cool air to the cpu cooler with a 120mm fan in the 5.25 bays. And I can fit a psu beefy enough to take overclocked cpu and dual oc'd Gpus. And again, the XL R2 is not that much bigger than the R4, and the price is very similar. Right now XL R2 is $100 at newegg, free ship.


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vangsfreaken*
> 
> i got mine on my right side on the floor, i don't see the problem... i can easily see over the door, so...? if i'd put it on my desk it would be annoying, but not on the floor


Don't you have a problem with accidentally reset when you operating your R4 from the top?


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> Don't you have a problem with accidentally reset when you operating your R4 from the top?


no... as i said, it's a rather noticeable, round, clicky button... you don't touch it by accident.


----------



## smoke2

If I potentially add the second front fan at the bottom, it brings me cool down the GPU and CPU little bit?
What about fans noise at 12V, can it be operate without doubt?


----------



## Mysticode

You will hear the fans at 12v, but nothing even close to being considered loud. A low hum sound. Any lower than 12v and they are pretty much dead silent.


----------



## GeneO

If you are interested in the define R2 XL, Newegg has them for $99. And if you don't like Newegg, NCIX will price match it for $100 with $8 ground shipping.


----------



## Mysticode

Gene0, what's your take on this whole inflation of case prices? I picked up my R4 last year Black Friday at Memory Express Canada for $70, regular $85 or so. Now it's over $100 easily.


----------



## GeneO

I have been out of that for a few years. Lots of things have been inflating though I guess. When I bought my R3 case it wasn't even sold in the US and I bought t from NCIX Canada. CPU coolers are quite a bit more too (e.g. Noctua NH-D14 is now $80 and it used to be $50). I guess they keep nudging up the price and still see better profits - haven't hit enthusiasts pain point yet.

You think this is bad. I do wildlife photography (not much anymore). I bought a 500mm les for such for $5500 8 years ago. The replacement model is $10,200 now (and the price has gone down some). Priced me out of that enthusiast market. But at least the lens held value.


----------



## smoke2

On my former case I have a problem with my two Caviar Black hard drives, which are noisier one and their vibrations was really hearable in the case.
Isn't it also a problem of this case?


----------



## vangsfreaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> On my former case I have a problem with my two Caviar Black hard drives, which are noisier one and their vibrations was really hearable in the case.
> Isn't it also a problem of this case?


i can't hear my drives in my r4, although i only have two at the moment


----------



## ebduncan

I performed a new mod yesterday.

Nothing to fancy, just added a Red backlight LCD with liquid temp for the radiators. Sure wish my hand was a bit more steady with the razor blade kinda had the one bad move so not entirely a perfect mod. It works though and that is all that matters to me.

Here is a photo. Doesn't seem very complex, but there is quite a bit of work needed to get this to fit here.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I performed a new mod yesterday.
> 
> Nothing to fancy, just added a Red backlight LCD with liquid temp for the radiators. Sure wish my hand was a bit more steady with the razor blade kinda had the one bad move so not entirely a perfect mod. It works though and that is all that matters to me.
> 
> Here is a photo. Doesn't seem very complex, but there is quite a bit of work needed to get this to fit here.


Looks good. I'm thinking of buying a drill and jig saw for things like this as well as crap around the house.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Looks good. I'm thinking of buying a drill and jig saw for things like this as well as crap around the house.


Tools are not a issue for me. I have just about every tool you can think of. Case modding though is a bit unique, a hot knife would work wonders for the plastic work. I should have used a exacto knife and a blow torch to make the cuts in the plastic, would have been easier and cleaner.


----------



## incog

That looks quite nice. Do you have a build log?


----------



## connor uk1

not sure if im aloud to do this but im looking for a fractal design arc midi r1 drive bay cover if someone in the uk has a spare one please message me with a reasonable price email is [email protected]


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *connor uk1*
> 
> not sure if im aloud to do this but im looking for a fractal design arc midi r1 drive bay cover if someone in the uk has a spare one please message me with a reasonable price email is [email protected]


I literally threw one out beginning of this week with the remains of my R1.


----------



## Airsik

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread, Iam a long time lurker here. I read through all of the pages and learned alot from you all. Here is the fractal R4 I just completed. Its an i7 3820 with GTX 660Ti.



http://imgur.com/sKQEK


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I finally finished the loop on my Arc Midi R2. I've got a XSPC AX240mm RAD in the roof, and a Alphacool 280 UT60 in the front.
> 
> Temps are not amazing water water cooling standards since I only have 2 rads and neither is a 360. But in benchmarks with the GPUs overvolted, I never go over 65C and in BF4 gaming with the fans at low very quiet settings I get 55C on the GPUs. The CPU runs 65-70C at 100% which is pretty much identical to my NH-D14, so no real change there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Progess
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to cut the metal over the 5.25" drive cage to fit the pump through, XSPC didn't design it to fit too well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU Close Ups
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I love seeing watercooled Arc Midis....this looks great! The dual bay res goes really well with the midi.


----------



## incog

Past two builds both look quite slick.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

So i took out my HDD cages and used one of the white HD anti vibration holders that get place inside the HD cages, what i did with that is screwed it on the mesh next to the power supply so the bottom fan on the front can have better airflow. While doing that i found out that my computer is A LOT more quieter since the HD doesn't rattle the entire thing anymore. I felt like it was shaking the case when it was reading.... So it was a win win, better airflow, better temps, a lot more quieter thanks to the rubber mounts on the white HD holders.. =)


----------



## GeneO

I just got a FD Define R4 to replace my R3. I wanted extra space for cable routing, removable HDD cage, and larger 140mm fan support all to improve my cooling and management. I looked at the Define XL R2 but I didn't like the hinges on the doors, the back of the motherboard depth for routing was less than the R4, and the fan placement WRT ATX MB wasn't to my liking. I ended up disappointed..

First off FD R4 design. I Have TY and Noctua 140mm PWM fans I wanted to utilize for case fans. These are 140mm with 120mm mounting holes. These worked fine on the top of the R3 case - the 120 holes were centered within the 140mm template. However on the R4, the 120mm holes are offset to a corner of the 140 mm template, not centered. The result is that you cannot use these fans as they 1. they are partially blocked by the case and 2. butt up against the adjacent Moduvent when placed in these offset holes. I would guess that this was done to accommodate clearance for radiators on the top, but it would have been pretty simple to add a few more round holes in the hexagonal grill to accommodate fans with centered 120mm mounting, like was done in the R3. These 140mm fans with 120 mounting are fairly common and not cheap, so a bummer.

In addition, my bottom drive bay was skewed. This results in the upper drive bays looking really crooked (though I am not using it presently).

The second bummer has nothing to do with FD. After transferring my previous Motherboard/cpu, which was stable 24x7 4.6 GHz @ 1.32V 2500k overclock it was no longer stable, and the core temps are 5c higher. This is a comparison with the case open, so I don't think it has anything to do with case airflow. The weird thing is when I booted up after the transfer of MB, etc, Windows started shutting down randomly. I finally found that somehow the BIOS settings were screwed up. For instance the base clock was 103 whereas I had it on the stock 100. I don't think it had any weird core voltage settings as I have Asus software monitor core voltage (and it does alert). I did reset the CMOS and that didn't help. I also reapplied TIM and after stress testing, verified that the application was good and the right spread.

Anyhow, I am not sure what happened. What should have been an easy improvement to case airflow and manageability didn't pan out. I went from a 4.6 GHz OC of 44.7c over ambient on IBT (custom with 10GB RAM, which I think is pretty good for an NH-D14) to almost 50c. I haven't even been able to address case airflow :-( I hope the R4 will pan out with a little extra $ on 140mm square fans. But now I am looking at close to $500 to replace my mainboard and CPU and get some decent fan that will fit the top of the case. Haswell I guess?

-


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> First off FD R4 design. I Have TY and Noctua 140mm PWM fans I wanted to utilize for case fans. These are 140mm with 120mm mounting holes. These worked fine on the top of the R3 case - the 120 holes were centered within the 140mm template. However on the R4, the 120mm holes are offset to a corner of the 140 mm template, not centered. The result is that you cannot use these fans as they 1. they are partially blocked by the case and 2. butt up against the adjacent Moduvent when placed in these offset holes. I would guess that this was done to accommodate clearance for radiators on the top, but it would have been pretty simple to add a few more round holes in the hexagonal grill to accommodate fans with centered 120mm mounting, like was done in the R3. These 140mm fans with 120 mounting are fairly common and not cheap, so a bummer.


I posted about this a while back, I'll repost the pix I used then. Yeah the 120mm mounting holes on top are off center. I use NF P14s everywhere and those come with metal tabs that convert 120mm mounting holes to 140mm. Those tabs are handy because you can flip them to use with any 140mm fan with 120mm mounting holes.




I don't believe these are sold separately though. Which is too bad, they're a lot lower profile than the adapters (bitspower etc) you can get which add quite a bit of depth to a fan. Maybe someone here has spares they can send your way, the NF P14s don't seem to get much use these days and I'm sure a lot of folks replaced them with newer ones and might have old ones lying around.

You can even use these to fit a 150mm wide fan up top, the one in the pic is an NF A15 which is the same size as the TY 14x.


----------



## GeneO

Thanks. I hadn't seen your post. I used an A15 in the cooler instead of the P14. I am using the P14 for front intake so I am OK. It just changed my plans,

Looked to see if either came with the brackets. Sadly not. Will probably get an A14 for the top.

Cheers


----------



## Csokis

Can i join the club?!









Fractal Design ARC XL


----------



## pkrexer

Awesome build! I'm actually in the process of doing the same build and plan on using your info as a blueprint









Only difference is I'm using a XSPC 240RX Rad in the front. I also only have 1 290x, but its good to know that you can run SLI and still maintain acceptable temps.

My only worry is that I'm using pretty tall ram sticks(about 50mm tall) and from what I've seen, Its going to be a tight fit with the 240AX rad I plan on putting up top.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I finally finished the loop on my Arc Midi R2. I've got a XSPC AX240mm RAD in the roof, and a Alphacool 280 UT60 in the front.
> 
> Temps are not amazing water water cooling standards since I only have 2 rads and neither is a 360. But in benchmarks with the GPUs overvolted, I never go over 65C and in BF4 gaming with the fans at low very quiet settings I get 55C on the GPUs. The CPU runs 65-70C at 100% which is pretty much identical to my NH-D14, so no real change there.
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Progess
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to cut the metal over the 5.25" drive cage to fit the pump through, XSPC didn't design it to fit too well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU Close Ups
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I finally finished the loop on my Arc Midi R2. I've got a XSPC AX240mm RAD in the roof, and a Alphacool 280 UT60 in the front.
> 
> Temps are not amazing water water cooling standards since I only have 2 rads and neither is a 360. But in benchmarks with the GPUs overvolted, I never go over 65C and in BF4 gaming with the fans at low very quiet settings I get 55C on the GPUs. The CPU runs 65-70C at 100% which is pretty much identical to my NH-D14, so no real change there.
> AFTER


What watertemps do you achieve ?
I plan to do a 680sli + 4770k, with a 240/45mm and a 360/45mm rad with a single layer of SP120 Fans in an arc mini.
First I´ll try it with only one 680 watercooled as I don´t know how much I like sli.
For sinlge gpu+cpu in loop I´d say 5x120mm rads should be enough.
Not shure about sli setup.
the loop might end in a mess when I´m having to add my mora..


----------



## Beliar

Joining the club with my custom LC in R4.

All in all this is version 1.0, in the future i'd like to add 140 MM rad in the back, remove HDD cage (move 1 HDD to the 5,25 bay), add backplate to GPU and maybe get bigger rez









For now :

EK Supremacy pleksi
Watercool Heatkiller X3
EK DCP 4.0
EK DCP 4.0 X RES
Alphacool Nexxos ST30 240mm
Coolgate Dual 120mm HD


----------



## jusutus

Getting there.


----------



## smithydan

Fractal has been quiet for a while, anyone heard or have a sneek peak of something to come?









Or they working with if it ain't broke don't fix it theory


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Fractal has been quiet for a while, anyone heard or have a sneek peak of something to come?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or they working with if it ain't broke don't fix it theory


The latter of those two lol, they have the Define R4 Blackout edition coming out but I haven't seen anything else for a good while


----------



## filphil

I noticed that when I installed my loop as well. The Bay reservoir definitely has a hard time fitting because the pump ring is massive. I bought the aluminum ring in hopes that it's a better fit. I got it to go in without but in order to remove the res for fills I have to take off the front panel.

Also did you have to make any mods to your case to fit the UT60? I have a monsta 280 coming in with my aluminum ring and am prepared to make cuts. I just don't feel like actually cutting due to a lack of time... And laziness. LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I finally finished the loop on my Arc Midi R2. I've got a XSPC AX240mm RAD in the roof, and a Alphacool 280 UT60 in the front.
> 
> Temps are not amazing water water cooling standards since I only have 2 rads and neither is a 360. But in benchmarks with the GPUs overvolted, I never go over 65C and in BF4 gaming with the fans at low very quiet settings I get 55C on the GPUs. The CPU runs 65-70C at 100% which is pretty much identical to my NH-D14, so no real change there.
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Progess
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to cut the metal over the 5.25" drive cage to fit the pump through, XSPC didn't design it to fit too well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU Close Ups
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Fester1

Hello all,

I've got all my components now (finally) and am going to start my build tomorrow (first timer). Can someone recommend in what order I should install components into this case? I gather case fans would be first.

I think next I would install the CPU chip onto the motherboard and the memory. Then do I place the motherboard into the case? If so, what would be the next steps?
Components are listed on my rig.


----------



## filphil

Linustechtips on youtube has a few build videos you could follow.

PCpartpicker.com also feature video builds that they walk you through. Give either of those a try.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I've got all my components now (finally) and am going to start my build tomorrow (first timer). Can someone recommend in what order I should install components into this case? I gather case fans would be first.
> 
> I think next I would install the CPU chip onto the motherboard and the memory. Then do I place the motherboard into the case? If so, what would be the next steps?
> Components are listed on my rig.


A roughcut order would be (starting from first to last):

1. Put in fans/optical/io shield
2. Assemble motherboard components outside the case (cpu into the motherboard socket, install ram, apply thermal paste and mount your cooler while checking for possible clearance issues)
3. Drop in your PSU and motherboard (having put in stand offs already) and screw them down.
4. Install your hard drives or SSDs and then follow up with your graphics card.
5. Run your cables and tidy/minimize them as much as possible.

Side note: I always like to run the motherboard 8 pin cable up through the back of the case first before putting in the motherboard as it makes it easier for those with larger hands to get it fit/connected

As filphil said, Linus does have some excellent video builds as well. This one he just put up 2 days ago, I watched it and it is probably his best yet.




This one is probably the most applicable with it being an R4 build.


----------



## incog

Some really nice rigs in this thread, keep it up!


----------



## Simsim

Just thought I'd let you guys know the Define R4 with window is down to $89.99 at newegg with Promo Code EMCPHPD34. I just ordered mine, so I should be added to the club soon!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352021


----------



## Mysticode

So some of my grommets on my R4 have gotten really loose, not too sure why. I contacted Fractal Design support, and they mailed me out some new grommets. However, what came in the mail, were not the case grommets, but instead "motherboard" grommets. Not exactly sure their purpose, but they are washer size little black rubber grommets. Any idea what they might be used for? I don't recall getting any with the case originally.

Fractal is aware of the mistake, and are sending me the ACTUAL grommets this time around. Love these guys and their dedication to customers!


----------



## Fester1

NVM


----------



## void

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mysticode*
> 
> So some of my grommets on my R4 have gotten really loose, not too sure why. I contacted Fractal Design support, and they mailed me out some new grommets. However, what came in the mail, were not the case grommets, but instead "motherboard" grommets. Not exactly sure their purpose, but they are washer size little black rubber grommets. Any idea what they might be used for? I don't recall getting any with the case originally.
> 
> Fractal is aware of the mistake, and are sending me the ACTUAL grommets this time around. Love these guys and their dedication to customers!


They may be the circular grommets used on the rear of the case to pass through water cooling tubes from external radiators. Usually located above or below the rear fan mount.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I love seeing watercooled Arc Midis....this looks great! The dual bay res goes really well with the midi.


Thanks Anoxy, your build was an inspiration to mine, although I went with significantly less RAD than you did.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Awesome build! I'm actually in the process of doing the same build and plan on using your info as a blueprint
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only difference is I'm using a XSPC 240RX Rad in the front. I also only have 1 290x, but its good to know that you can run SLI and still maintain acceptable temps.
> 
> My only worry is that I'm using pretty tall ram sticks(about 50mm tall) and from what I've seen, Its going to be a tight fit with the 240AX rad I plan on putting up top.


Your RAM should be ok, I just measured and there is 2" of space, so your RAM would have to be huge for it to be an issue, my RAM is very small Samsung 20nm, so I've got over 1.5" of space to spare.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> What watertemps do you achieve ?
> I plan to do a 680sli + 4770k, with a 240/45mm and a 360/45mm rad with a single layer of SP120 Fans in an arc mini.
> First I´ll try it with only one 680 watercooled as I don´t know how much I like sli.
> For sinlge gpu+cpu in loop I´d say 5x120mm rads should be enough.
> Not shure about sli setup.
> the loop might end in a mess when I´m having to add my mora..


I am still playing around with my fans, so temps are variable. Right now I'm trying push pull on the 240mm RAD and 1 have 1 140mm fan pulling and 2 pushing on the 280mm RAD (the hard drive cage prevents me from having 2 in pull). But I can say the temps are quite satisfactory, even with only push fans. The CPU does get warm, 70C with the push only fans, but that isn't uncommon in loops. The GPUs stay under 60C. I will post more when I get time to do more testing. I've been out of town for a week so I haven't had a chance too.

With 1x360mm and 1x240mm RAD you will more than enough for SLi 680s and a 4770k. My Titans are 250w GPUs and 680s are 195w, so they will put out significantly less heat.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *filphil*
> 
> I noticed that when I installed my loop as well. The Bay reservoir definitely has a hard time fitting because the pump ring is massive. I bought the aluminum ring in hopes that it's a better fit. I got it to go in without but in order to remove the res for fills I have to take off the front panel.
> 
> Also did you have to make any mods to your case to fit the UT60? I have a monsta 280 coming in with my aluminum ring and am prepared to make cuts. I just don't feel like actually cutting due to a lack of time... And laziness. LOL


Fitting the UT60 require that I remove the lower HDD cage and move it about 1.5" toward the rear of the cage. This means I cannot use the upper HDD cage. I also removed the plastic HDD adapter that connects to the bottom of the 5.25" bay. I had to drill new holes in the bottom of the case to secure the drive cage in the new position. If I had a smaller PSU or had made less space for PSU cables, I could have moved the HDD cage further to the rear and had room for pull fans on the top and bottom of the 280mm RAD, as it stands I can only place a pull fan on the upper part of my 280mm RAD.

You should be able to fit a Monsta 280mm without difficulty if you remove the parts I mentioned and more the drive cage to the rear.

See here...



I'm not sure I will keep the pull fans, they may not be worth the extra noise for only a few degrees difference.


----------



## pkrexer

Mostly done! Still need to mount my SSD on the back plate, would like to get a white extension for my USB 3.0 header cable (along with a few other tweaks here and there). But all and all, not bad I'd say for my first water build 







Love playing games in complete silence.. 290x doesn't even break 45c full load.

Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## filphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> Thanks Anoxy, your build was an inspiration to mine, although I went with significantly less RAD than you did.
> Your RAM should be ok, I just measured and there is 2" of space, so your RAM would have to be huge for it to be an issue, my RAM is very small Samsung 20nm, so I've got over 1.5" of space to spare.
> I am still playing around with my fans, so temps are variable. Right now I'm trying push pull on the 240mm RAD and 1 have 1 140mm fan pulling and 2 pushing on the 280mm RAD (the hard drive cage prevents me from having 2 in pull). But I can say the temps are quite satisfactory, even with only push fans. The CPU does get warm, 70C with the push only fans, but that isn't uncommon in loops. The GPUs stay under 60C. I will post more when I get time to do more testing. I've been out of town for a week so I haven't had a chance too.
> 
> With 1x360mm and 1x240mm RAD you will more than enough for SLi 680s and a 4770k. My Titans are 250w GPUs and 680s are 195w, so they will put out significantly less heat.
> Fitting the UT60 require that I remove the lower HDD cage and move it about 1.5" toward the rear of the cage. This means I cannot use the upper HDD cage. I also removed the plastic HDD adapter that connects to the bottom of the 5.25" bay. I had to drill new holes in the bottom of the case to secure the drive cage in the new position. If I had a smaller PSU or had made less space for PSU cables, I could have moved the HDD cage further to the rear and had room for pull fans on the top and bottom of the 280mm RAD, as it stands I can only place a pull fan on the upper part of my 280mm RAD.
> 
> You should be able to fit a Monsta 280mm without difficulty if you remove the parts I mentioned and more the drive cage to the rear.
> 
> See here...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure I will keep the pull fans, they may not be worth the extra noise for only a few degrees difference.


Thanks. I've already removed parts. I have a xspc 280 fitted but will be replacing and adding 3 alphacool rads to my case. ut 30 120 in the rear, monsta 280 in the front, and will decide on the top radiator after I get measurements with the ut30 120 installed. The parts come in tomorrow so we'll see how everything fits.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Mostly done! Still need to mount my SSD on the back plate, would like to get a white extension for my USB 3.0 header cable (along with a few other tweaks here and there). But all and all, not bad I'd say for my first water build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love playing games in complete silence.. 290x doesn't even break 45c full load.
> 
> Let me know what you guys think.


Awesome, only thing is you have to remove the motherboard to use the ssd on the back of the tray, and that would require disassembling your loop. Huge dissing flaw by fractal. I'd just put the ssd in the tray or on the side of the 5.25 bay for now.

Looks great though. Very clean. What size tubbing is that?


----------



## bigsobes87

system3.jpg 64k .jpg file


----------



## ebduncan

Might as well post mine as well.

I went with a XT45 280mm front radiator, in push/pull rather than thick radiator.

i have both ssd behind the motherboard. I'm working on a mounting solution for my bottom two disk drives.


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> Awesome, only thing is you have to remove the motherboard to use the ssd on the back of the tray, and that would require disassembling your loop. Huge dissing flaw by fractal. I'd just put the ssd in the tray or on the side of the 5.25 bay for now.
> 
> Looks great though. Very clean. What size tubbing is that?


Just use some velcro or dual lock instead of mounting it. Works great.


----------



## Fester1

Is the accessory box that came with the R4 just extras? I just want to see if I'm supposed to use any of the things in that box.


----------



## pkrexer

3/4" OD tubing. For mounting the SSD on the back, I was thinking of using velcro tape.

Did you have a hard time mounting the 5.25 reservoir into the drive bay? Mine was extremely tight and I had to force it so things would line up with the front panel. I think mounting the reservoir was the hardest part I had installing the whole loop.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> Awesome, only thing is you have to remove the motherboard to use the ssd on the back of the tray, and that would require disassembling your loop. Huge dissing flaw by fractal. I'd just put the ssd in the tray or on the side of the 5.25 bay for now.
> 
> Looks great though. Very clean. What size tubbing is that?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> 3/4" OD tubing. For mounting the SSD on the back, I was thinking of using velcro tape.
> 
> Did you have a hard time mounting the 5.25 reservoir into the drive bay? Mine was extremely tight and I had to force it so things would line up with the front panel. I think mounting the reservoir was the hardest part I had installing the whole loop.


I didn't have any trouble getting the reservoir to fit. hmm. Hardest part for me was getting the 280mm XT 45 radiator to fit in the front. I had to remove the drive bays mod the front panel, and create a custom mounting solution.

On the SSD's I just used double sided tape. Prepped both sides with rubbing alcohol and they stuck to the back of the motherboard very securely.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> Just use some velcro or dual lock instead of mounting it. Works great.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I didn't have any trouble getting the reservoir to fit. hmm. Hardest part for me was getting the 280mm XT 45 radiator to fit in the front. I had to remove the drive bays mod the front panel, and create a custom mounting solution.
> 
> On the SSD's I just used double sided tape. Prepped both sides with rubbing alcohol and they stuck to the back of the motherboard very securely.


Smart idea on the double sided tape/velcro. I wish I had done that, hopefully I won't need to remove my SSD since they are screwed in there.

My Res was a pain in the butt. The mounting screw holes did not line up with the drive cage, so I had to enlarge the drive cage holes with a drill. Very disappointing the XSPC couldn't get the holes in the right spot, or maybe it is the size of the ring on the D5 pump, but either way they should make their equipment fit better. It all worked out in the end though once the drilled proper holes.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> Is the accessory box that came with the R4 just extras? I just want to see if I'm supposed to use any of the things in that box.


Doesn't that have the motherboard standoffs and screws, screws for mounting disk drives, etc?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Might as well post mine as well.
> 
> I went with a XT45 280mm front radiator, in push/pull rather than thick radiator.
> 
> i have both ssd behind the motherboard. I'm working on a mounting solution for my bottom two disk drives.


You can use the modular driver cage to sit near the PSU to mount your HDD.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can use the modular driver cage to sit near the PSU to mount your HDD.


I have a revision 1.0 ARC Midi. The bottom drive cage was riveted to the frame. I had to drill the rivets out to remove the drive cage. I could probably use it again if I wanted to and secure it with nuts and bolts. I don't really want to do that, because that thing is big and bulky. I will likely just make my own drive cage. I've been thinking about using the 140mm/120mm fan spot location.


----------



## Fester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Doesn't that have the motherboard standoffs and screws, screws for mounting disk drives, etc?


Ah, yes so that's what it's for.

OK, so i screw in the standoffs first and then once the motherboard is in, I secure with M/B screws?

Also, can anyone tell me what the 12 rubber spacers are for? It's the only thing I can't figure out.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> Ah, yes so that's what it's for.
> 
> OK, so i screw in the standoffs first and then once the motherboard is in, I secure with M/B screws?
> 
> Also, can anyone tell me what the 12 rubber spacers are for? It's the only thing I can't figure out.


The little round rubber with the holes in them are to keep the hard drive up off the metal hard drive caddies.


----------



## Fester1

Thanks, got it.

I'm working on the motherboard now, scared.


----------



## beans444

Arc midi r2 is 99$ cnd on newegg http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352031
109 for define R4. It would be cooler if there was no shipping as well..


----------



## mariusro

Hi, i am a new member, my name is Marius, i'm from Romania.

Two months ago i bought R4, leaving behind HAF XM.


----------



## jeremy1910

Hi,

It is possible to remove the fans of their base for painting them? on an arc midi R2


----------



## Fester1

OK, got through day 1 of putting it together. I didn't have a huge amount of time so only got case fans in, cpu & cpu cooler onto mobo and then installed the mobo.
The only concern I have is that I accidentally twisted the heatsink when I was putting in a screw and had to turn it. I hope I didn't smear the thermal paste too bad. Is that middle screw on the hyper 212 evo suppose to be loose like that? I should've probably bought a liquid cooler.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> OK, got through day 1 of putting it together. I didn't have a huge amount of time so only got case fans in, cpu & cpu cooler onto mobo and then installed the mobo.
> The only concern I have is that I accidentally twisted the heatsink when I was putting in a screw and had to turn it. I hope I didn't smear the thermal paste too bad. Is that middle screw on the hyper 212 evo suppose to be loose like that? I should've probably bought a liquid cooler.


I never used the 212 EVO, but if you tightened all the screws fully you shouldn't have any problems. I've used the NH-D14 and a heatsink Similar to the 212 (Xigmatek Gaia), as long as they are fully secure they are pretty hard to screw up. If the temps are bad, you can always pull it off and repaste it.


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> OK, got through day 1 of putting it together. I didn't have a huge amount of time so only got case fans in, cpu & cpu cooler onto mobo and then installed the mobo.
> The only concern I have is that I accidentally twisted the heatsink when I was putting in a screw and had to turn it. I hope I didn't smear the thermal paste too bad. Is that middle screw on the hyper 212 evo suppose to be loose like that? I should've probably bought a liquid cooler.


Yes you should be ok. It will spread anyway.

I was considering putting a Hyper 212 EVO into a Fractal Mini R2. My concerns were:

1. If it will fit. The height is. 159mm The case shows it allows up to 165mm. Thats only 6mm clearance and assuming Fractal have taken into account the motherboard height .

2. If it blocks any ram slots. In your photo it appears to be doing so









Anyone put a 212 EVO into a Mini R2?


----------



## boy005

1. It will fit!

2.Of course it block firs slot, only if you have tall memory like corsair vengeance but if you have lp memory, it fits like a charm

sorry for my english


----------



## Fester1

Thanks for the help so far ladies and gents. I can't believe I'm almost freaking done. All those years of being intimidated for nothing.

I do have another noob question about installation of my power supply in R4:

should the fan on the Seasonic SS660-XP2 point downwards or upwards?
Also, I selected hybrid fan mode. Seems like that would be optimal.


----------



## eBombzor

You can have it both ways since you only have one GPU. I have my PSU pointed upwards because the filter in the bottom is a pain to take out.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mariusro*
> 
> Hi, i am a new member, my name is Marius, i'm from Romania.
> 
> Two months ago i bought R4, leaving behind HAF XM.


Welcome, marius! Clean lookin build ya got there! I love my define r4. So elegant.


----------



## mercuk

The R4 is currently $89 delivered on newegg
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352021

$10 off w/ promo code EMCPHPD34, ends 2/12


----------



## rcoolb2002

I have a define mini with EVO212+ It fits in the case fine, but I do have to use the LP ram, but that could be more motherboard specific not necessarily case specific.


----------



## Mysticode

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> Thanks for the help so far ladies and gents. I can't believe I'm almost freaking done. All those years of being intimidated for nothing.
> 
> I do have another noob question about installation of my power supply in R4:
> 
> should the fan on the Seasonic SS660-XP2 point downwards or upwards?
> Also, I selected hybrid fan mode. Seems like that would be optimal.


It honestly doesn't matter unless you have multiple graphics cards pumping out heat, you'd then would possibly want that psu fan facing upwards to help exhaust the extra hot air in the case. Your gpu temps might not be very different however, so don't keep your hopes up.

In the end, I'd say it's all up to personal preference. I keep mine with the fan up because I like the look better.


----------



## smoke2

I'm wondering between Fractal R4 and Nanoxia Deep Silence 2.
I have been reading the R4 stock fans are little bit noisier and produce deep hum.
I would like to operate them on maximum speed 12V.
Is it truth?

The second thing:
I'm owning two WD Caviar Blacks (1.5TB a 2TB) which are relatively noisier and have louder seeks.
How much can R4 silence the harddrives?


----------



## Dego

For the past 5 years i've had Therlmaltake Soprano VB1000BWS ( http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model_Specification.aspx?id=C_00000145) and I wan't to upgrade it to a more quiter case and i've looked up the reviews and Fractal Design Define R4 ( http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r4-black-pearl )Black Pearl seems the most quiet and has the best cooling of all quiet cases.

The question is since the quiet case are generally not that good cooled as the normal ones but the Fractal should produce better cooling than my old Thermaltake right? I've got only front and rear 120mm vent. ON.

I don't want to step one step back with cooling but I want a quiet case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

What you can get is the Arc Midi R2 comes with 3x 140mm fan + fan controller. You can get quiet with any case, all you do is lower the fan speed or get quieter fans.
Quiet part is only internal noise, but you will still hear everything.


----------



## mxfreek09

Finally got my h220 in my rig. Now I am just waiting on some ram and I have to reroute a couple stray cables. I am pleased with my r4 for the time being though.


----------



## Fester1

OK, so I don't have anything to go into the upper hard drive cage. Should I remove that or leave it in?


----------



## Anoxy

Remove it.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> OK, so I don't have anything to go into the upper hard drive cage. Should I remove that or leave it in?


Remove it. It will provide better airflow through the case to your components.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm wondering between Fractal R4 and Nanoxia Deep Silence 2.
> I have been reading the R4 stock fans are little bit noisier and produce deep hum.
> I would like to operate them on maximum speed 12V.
> Is it truth?
> 
> The second thing:
> I'm owning two WD Caviar Blacks (1.5TB a 2TB) which are relatively noisier and have louder seeks.
> How much can R4 silence the harddrives?


The fans on the Midi R2 are loud at 12v but they are quiet at 7v which is where I run mine. I imagine the R4 is the same, maybe a little quieter due to the front panel insulation.


----------



## eBombzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> OK, so I don't have anything to go into the upper hard drive cage. Should I remove that or leave it in?


You could also flip the cage and remove all of the HDD brackets. IMO it looks better then having it removed.


----------



## beans444

Anyone running an i7 930 or similar cpu and or a gtx 770 - Gigabyte windforce card in a Define R4 on air? I would like to know if its worth getting this case if I don't go water cooling right away. (long wait)

I hit 65/67C full load on cpu with my evo 212 at 4ghz and gtx 770 the same in an Antec 1200 with Enermax 900rpm fans.

From links shown I'm expecting 5 to 10 degrees hotter but I doubt there's anything but stock fans in the test setups?

I'd like to use a bottom intake and a extra front intake for sure. Probably leave the top alone unless I grab some better fans and stick a stock fractal up there.

Thanks.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Anyone running an i7 930 or similar cpu and or a gtx 770 - Gigabyte windforce card in a Define R4 on air? I would like to know if its worth getting this case if I don't go water cooling right away. (long wait)
> 
> I hit 65/67C full load on cpu with my evo 212 at 4ghz and gtx 770 the same in an Antec 1200 with Enermax 900rpm fans.
> 
> From links shown I'm expecting 5 to 10 degrees hotter but I doubt there's anything but stock fans in the test setups?
> 
> I'd like to use a bottom intake and a extra front intake for sure. Probably leave the top alone unless I grab some better fans and stick a stock fractal up there.
> 
> Thanks.


If you want to watercool, then look at the Arc Midi R2. This one has better option to watercool.


----------



## mercuk

If cooling is your thing the 'Arcs' are better than the 'Define' especially on air, however your Antec is a great case why change it?


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> If cooling is your thing the 'Arcs' are better than the 'Define' especially on air, however your Antec is a great case why change it?


Ah, I am tired of taking out all the thumb screws to clean the fans and will end up making another computer so I want something more quiet.

The Arc midi R2 looks pretty awesome as well but like mentioned my antec 1200 is pretty similar.


----------



## gdubc

If you want to water cool I would skip even the midiR2. Dont get me wrong, I love mine but the miniR2 is more equipped out of the box, or the midiXL maybe even. Just the opinion of one MidiR2/Define R4 owner, lol!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

There is a small difference in clearance on the Midi R2 and Arc XL is about 5mm taller interior.
You can get same watercooling capabilities with both.


----------



## beans444

Thanks for the replies! I'm cashing in my tax return soon, "poor student" Lol. I'm going to try price match with Canada Computers eh!
I'll make them open up boxes if I have to. R2/R4 stand off, I'd like to see the mini if its there also! and a new PSU, for sure! Time to hang up the loud ass 850w tx psu









I think I'll study some sound tests to compare things a little more.

Edit:

Leaning towards the R4 after reading this. http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1888165/fractal-design-define-wait.html I want quiet..









The best of both worlds here. Although, the Antec needs serious modifications which will be my final choice for water cooling and a big future project.
- new side panel window mod
- extra exhaust vents and modding mesh in the top for rad.

End result something similar to this.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Thanks for the replies! I'm cashing in my tax return soon, "poor student" Lol. I'm going to try price match with Canada Computers eh!
> I'll make them open up boxes if I have to. R2/R4 stand off, I'd like to see the mini if its there also! and a new PSU, for sure! Time to hang up the loud ass 850w tx psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'll study some sound tests to compare things a little more.


If you want watercooling get the R2. R4 do no thave the top to properly mount a rad, as it is center, not offset.
Noise review is not out there, as everybody is different.
Once you start adding more fans, noise will be increased, that is what fan controllers and PWM fans are for. I havent see a case for the price that comes close to the R2.


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxfreek09*
> 
> Finally got my h220 in my rig. Now I am just waiting on some ram and I have to reroute a couple stray cables. I am pleased with my r4 for the time being though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


looks clean and orderly.

you know that the radiator is installed upside-down? the fill port needs to be pointing upward.
if not, you should cant the front of the radiator up or lower the rear. reason would be that the
air can stay trapped at the opposite end of the hose intake. if not you'll be battling trapped air
problems in the future. as the amount of air inside the radiator can be as large as 10mm deep
and with that powerful of a pump will easily swallow air up on startup and produce trickling effect.

'sperience on my Arc Midi with the radiator mounted proper way up, the trapped air would not stay
in the reservoir. eventually, i had to "over fill" (2mm under fill port) and shimmed the rear of the
radiator (keeps the air away from the inlet tube) to keep it from sucking up air.

airdeano


----------



## kilo 40

so I'm a week away from ordering the guts for my arc xl, but I just can't quite build up enough guts to cut two holes in the case(for a drain port and a fill port). I have the bit, a drill, the fill/drain plugs and everything. I'm just too scared of making a mistake and making my case look like crap.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo 40*
> 
> so I'm a week away from ordering the guts for my arc xl, but I just can't quite build up enough guts to cut two holes in the case(for a drain port and a fill port). I have the bit, a drill, the fill/drain plugs and everything. I'm just too scared of making a mistake and making my case look like crap.


Make some practice holes in something similar, and use tape to keep it in one spot I think it would hold the drill steady sort of no? example from here. http://www.overclock.net/t/441651/full-log-antec-1200-window-mod I have to make some serious cuts lol and get that grommet edging to avoid sharp bad looking edges.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo 40*
> 
> so I'm a week away from ordering the guts for my arc xl, but I just can't quite build up enough guts to cut two holes in the case(for a drain port and a fill port). I have the bit, a drill, the fill/drain plugs and everything. I'm just too scared of making a mistake and making my case look like crap.


there isn't a need to worry. Its really easy to mod, and if you mess up you can always sand/ primer/paint again. I'd just man up, let them balls drop down and drill some holes.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo 40*
> 
> so I'm a week away from ordering the guts for my arc xl, but I just can't quite build up enough guts to cut two holes in the case(for a drain port and a fill port). I have the bit, a drill, the fill/drain plugs and everything. I'm just too scared of making a mistake and making my case look like crap.


Grab some scrap sheet metal from your nearest dump, transfer station, or scrapyard and practice once or twice. I'll assure you it's easy if you've used a drill enough before.


----------



## anteante

I´m working on my latest build with a Fractal Arc Mini R2 and the spirit of RoG and acrylic


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> I´m working on my latest build with a Fractal Arc Mini R2 and the spirit of RoG and acrylic


Looks good! I gotta get one of these ROG boards, Hero!!

Also, how loud are those fans? I like the look but I couldn't justify look for sound ever again lol.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Looks good! I gotta get one of these ROG boards, Hero!!
> 
> Also, how loud are those fans? I like the look but I couldn't justify look for sound ever again lol.


they come in two different versions. Performance edition or Quiet edition. The performance ones are kinda loud at 35dba, The quiet editions are darn near silent.

I use the performance editions @ 7 volts. Best of both worlds, i can run them full 12 volts and increase performance or i can run them at 7 volts and get silence.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> I´m working on my latest build with a Fractal Arc Mini R2 and the spirit of RoG and acrylic


looks quite familliar, except I´m not on acrylic tubing.


How did you fix the 240rad in the front ?


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> I´m working on my latest build with a Fractal Arc Mini R2 and the spirit of RoG and acrylic


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> looks quite familliar, except I´m not on acrylic tubing.
> 
> 
> How did you fix the 240rad in the front ?


Hmm...


----------



## incog

^That's pretty funny. i guess good parts tend to get used a lot right?


----------



## LotusZero

Here is my build! Im pretty new here, but I just got the Midi R2 and I love it for its compactness and modular configs. Sorry for the crap filter and random smudges and the mess of colors.. It hurts my eyes too, but I didnt want to use the stock black cables even though it would look tons better. Haha. Im just trying to see if I can get a blue sleeved cable kit for cheap, I dont want to pay 75+ for it.







Also, waiting for the H220X from Swiftech to drop so I can go full water.


----------



## kilo 40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Grab some scrap sheet metal from your nearest dump, transfer station, or scrapyard and practice once or twice. I'll assure you it's easy if you've used a drill enough before.


its not so much drilling the hole, as it is worrying that I'll find out later I should have put it somewhere else.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilo 40*
> 
> its not so much drilling the hole, as it is worrying that I'll find out later I should have put it somewhere else.


Well I suppose that'd be up to you, I know I change parts every 1-2 years so I stray away from major modifications but if you're going to use the location for a while I'd just do it.


----------



## ichiwot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> I´m working on my latest build with a Fractal Arc Mini R2 and the spirit of RoG and acrylic


pls do update i want to see it with the finish loops thnx


----------



## Degree

If I were to switch to the Arc Midi R2 from the NZXT Switch 810, will I have any problems moving all my components ?
Everything is in my sig


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> If I were to switch to the Arc Midi R2 from the NZXT Switch 810, will I have any problems moving all my components ?
> Everything is in my sig


No problems at all.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> If I were to switch to the Arc Midi R2 from the NZXT Switch 810, will I have any problems moving all my components ?
> Everything is in my sig


The question is why?


----------



## saxovtsmike

Lets add some more stuff from Watercool, and I´d say the G.Skill Trident X´s blend into the colors quite well


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> The question is why?


I'm moving into a dorm and the Switch 810 is just too much for me to bring it with me. Someone suggested for me to get the Arc Midi R2 since it's smaller.

Do you think it's much of a difference in size? Or should I get a smaller case?


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I'm moving into a dorm and the Switch 810 is just too much for me to bring it with me. Someone suggested for me to get the Arc Midi R2 since it's smaller.
> 
> Do you think it's much of a difference in size? Or should I get a smaller case?


Try the mini!


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I'm moving into a dorm and the Switch 810 is just too much for me to bring it with me. Someone suggested for me to get the Arc Midi R2 since it's smaller.
> 
> Do you think it's much of a difference in size? Or should I get a smaller case?


If you want to go small - Node 304. Otherwise it's just a pointless sidegrade.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

mini and node wont help as Degree will need to replace mobo.
Midi R2 is smaller than Switch 810

Arc Midi R2
(WxHxD): 230 x 460 x 515mm

Switch 810
(WxHxD): 235 x 605 X 577mm


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> mini and node wont help as Degree will need to replace mobo.
> Midi R2 is smaller than Switch 810
> 
> Arc Midi R2
> (WxHxD): 230 x 460 x 515mm
> 
> Switch 810
> (WxHxD): 235 x 605 X 577mm


Right, because buying a case that is just slightly shorter in height is a completely reasonable thing. You can buy cheap second hand mini-itx motherboard and call it a day.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Right, because buying a case that is just slightly shorter in height is a completely reasonable thing. You can buy cheap second hand mini-itx motherboard and call it a day.


The cost will be much more than buying a used itx mobo. Well you completely missed it. If you bothered to look at the build Degree has.
Not only height, you got depth. Even if it slightly smaller, easier to fit around places.

You can try for the Arc Mini R2 and get a matx mobo if you like. But that will increase your cost.


----------



## Degree

Hey anything smaller than the Switch 810 is welcomed!







It's just way too big for me to bring with me to my dorm.

I might try and get a Micro ATX case, specifically looking at the Aerocool DS Cube and Bitfenix Prodigy, but I'm leaning more towards the Aerocool DS Cube.

What do you guys think? It should be able to fit everything right? GTX 670 - Asus Xonar DX Soundcard and my H100?

Obviously I need to get a Micro ATX mobo also.

But man I wish I would've started with a small case to began with, I don't even know why I chose to get a full tower two years ago.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Prodigy you will lose the h100 not a good build for MATX
Aerocool DS you can use the H100 in pull only and use optical bay.
Arc Mini R2 (WxHxD): 210 x 405 x 484mm (can use both H100 and optical bay)
Aerocool DS (WxHxD): 265 x 411x 381


----------



## Anoxy

I'm just confused why it would be too big to bring with you? Like it's too heavy to carry, or you don't want to ship something that large?

If you're worried about actual dorm space, that doesn't really make sense because downsizing to a smaller case will only save you vertical space, which a dorm room has plenty of.

I'd say keep the 810 so you have plenty of room to grow in the future....watercooling, SLI/Xfire, etc. But if you aren't interested in any of that, then I guess buying a new motherboard just to downsize is cool...


----------



## Degree

I don't want a huge tower taking so much space in my room, it's a pretty small room and it's going to be shared.

Maybe you haven't seen this case in person yet, but it's pretty massive. And it's going to be a pain for me to carry with me, three hour drive and having to bring it up floors.

Trust me, if I didn't have to get a new case I wouldn't.

I just want something small and compact, someone suggested me to get a Corsair 350D so I'm thinking of Aerocool DS/350D/Arc Mini


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I don't want a huge tower taking so much space in my room, it's a pretty small room and it's going to be shared.
> 
> Maybe you haven't seen this case in person yet, but it's pretty massive. And it's going to be a pain for me to carry with me, three hour drive and having to bring it up floors.
> 
> Trust me, if I didn't have to get a new case I wouldn't.
> 
> I just want something small and compact, someone suggested me to get a Corsair 350D so I'm thinking of Aerocool DS/350D/Arc Mini


I'll put all the sizes just too compared all. Each one has it is size to work with, as you want wider, taller or depth.
The Switch 810 is a big case and got rid of it for the smaller Midi R2.

Switch 810
235W x 605H X 577D mm

Arc Midi R2
230W x 460H x 515D mm

Arc Mini R2
210W x 405H x 484D mm

350D
210W x 440H x 450D mm

Aerocool DS
265W x 411H x 381D mm


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I don't want a huge tower taking so much space in my room, it's a pretty small room and it's going to be shared.
> 
> Maybe you haven't seen this case in person yet, but it's pretty massive. And it's going to be a pain for me to carry with me, three hour drive and having to bring it up floors.
> 
> Trust me, if I didn't have to get a new case I wouldn't.
> 
> I just want something small and compact, someone suggested me to get a Corsair 350D so I'm thinking of Aerocool DS/350D/Arc Mini


LOL I took my antec 1200 about 1000 km south. I know what you mean.. Thing weighs like 80 pounds. Don't have water cooling or more than one hard drive even.

Gahh the more I look at arc midi the more I wannnnt.. But Silence hasss to be my final option







I'm done with flashy led fans.

Edit: I just saw this video recently on acrylic water cooling tubing and the alternative they use looks pretty legit! 




I also saw 4 120mm fans installed in a few Antec 1200 cases so I'll be able to jam this baby in there with some modifications







http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5327/ex-rad-110/Black_Ice_GTX_Xtreme_480_Radiator_-_Black.html


----------



## Anoxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I don't want a huge tower taking so much space in my room, it's a pretty small room and it's going to be shared.
> 
> Maybe you haven't seen this case in person yet, but it's pretty massive. And it's going to be a pain for me to carry with me, three hour drive and having to bring it up floors.
> 
> Trust me, if I didn't have to get a new case I wouldn't.
> 
> I just want something small and compact, someone suggested me to get a Corsair 350D so I'm thinking of Aerocool DS/350D/Arc Mini


No, I understand. What I'm saying is that "downsizing" to something "small and compact" really only saves you vertical and depth space. Most cases, small or large, are extremely close in width. I just don't think it's really worth it...your dorm room will have plenty of space. A few centimeters isn't going to make or break you. Also, most dorms have elevators...it can't be much larger than a suitcase.

Anyway, just offering some counterpoints for the sake of discussion. Do what makes you happy


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> No, I understand. What I'm saying is that "downsizing" to something "small and compact" really only saves you vertical and depth space. Most cases, small or large, are extremely close in width. I just don't think it's really worth it...your dorm room will have plenty of space. A few centimeters isn't going to make or break you. Also, most dorms have elevators...it can't be much larger than a suitcase.
> 
> Anyway, just offering some counterpoints for the sake of discussion. Do what makes you happy


It's not just saving space, it'll also make it easier to carry around and when you're in a dorm, space is precious


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Hey anything smaller than the Switch 810 is welcomed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just way too big for me to bring with me to my dorm.
> 
> I might try and get a Micro ATX case, specifically looking at the Aerocool DS Cube and Bitfenix Prodigy, but I'm leaning more towards the Aerocool DS Cube.
> 
> What do you guys think? It should be able to fit everything right? GTX 670 - Asus Xonar DX Soundcard and my H100?
> 
> Obviously I need to get a Micro ATX mobo also.
> 
> But man I wish I would've started with a small case to began with, I don't even know why I chose to get a full tower two years ago.


I understand your situation. I also prefer small cases, but I chose the Midi R2 since it offers the most bang for the buck of any case there is IMHO. I previously used a Lian PC-A05FN which the smallest full ATX motherboard case there is. You can get them for $50 on sale sometimes, but you would not be able to use your H100 cooler, and your HX750 PSU might be too long too (the AX750 fits perfectly but I think the HX series is bigger). The Midi R2 is roughly 25% smaller than your current case, and that is quite noticeable despite the opinions of some. The Arc Mini would be better for college since dorm space is a premium and nothing says "nerd" like a giant computer case. Only you can decide if trading your motherboard is worth it. I wouldn't go mITX though, you'd loose SLi capabilities and you probably need a new CPU cooler too. Plus your HX PSU is rather long too.

Here is my PC-A05 build. You can see how much stuff it fits in small case with a full size ATX board. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112331

http://www.overclock.net/t/880913/the-official-lian-li-pc-a05-club/0_30



More Photos


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> It's not just saving space, it'll also make it easier to carry around and when you're in a dorm, space is precious


if you cared about space that much, you would forget about having a desktop and just use a laptop.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I understand your situation. I also prefer small cases, but I chose the Midi R2 since it offers the most bang for the buck of any case there is IMHO. I previously used a Lian PC-A05FN which the smallest full ATX motherboard case there is. You can get them for $50 on sale sometimes, but you would not be able to use your H100 cooler, and your HX750 PSU might be too long too (the AX750 fits perfectly but I think the HX series is bigger). The Midi R2 is roughly 25% smaller than your current case, and that is quite noticeable despite the opinions of some. The Arc Mini would be better for college since dorm space is a premium and nothing says "nerd" like a giant computer case. Only you can decide if trading your motherboard is worth it. I wouldn't go mITX though, you'd loose SLi capabilities and you probably need a new CPU cooler too. Plus your HX PSU is rather long too.
> 
> Here is my PC-A05 build. You can see how much stuff it fits in small case with a full size ATX board. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112331
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/880913/the-official-lian-li-pc-a05-club/0_30
> 
> 
> 
> More Photos
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks man! I'm glad you understand my situation perfectly!
Yea I'm prob going to stay with my atx board to allow future upgrades and whatnot. Doesn't really make sense to downgrade.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> if you cared about space that much, you would forget about having a desktop and just use a laptop.


Not THAT much for me to leave my desktop behind though


----------



## paulkemp

Hello duders! Can anyone help me with the number of fan connectors on my mobo and how I can use ASUS fan Xpert? Please look at http://www.overclock.net/t/1466925/lacking-fan-connectors-on-mobo-and-using-asus-fan-xpert-2 . Sorry, didnt see this thread _before_ posting.


----------



## Fester1

YES, I did it and everything works!!!

The 1st time I tried turning it on it wouldn't start, but I realized that it was because I had the power and reset two pin connectors plugged in vertically and not horizontally into the motherboard.

Those Noctua fans are dead silent. I'm a little worried that they're not strong enough, but I have no idea what they're set at by default. Tomorrow I'll connect everything (monitor, keyboard, etc...) and install Windows 7. I'm kind of sad to be leaving Windows XP though.

Thanks to everyone that helped me during this arduous process.

Here's some pics. My cable management is non-existent. I have literally no idea how you can figure out ways of hiding cables because I can't.





**SO MANY CABLES!!!**


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> YES, I did it and everything works!!!
> 
> The 1st time I tried turning it on it wouldn't start, but I realized that it was because I had the power and reset two pin connectors plugged in vertically and not horizontally into the motherboard.
> 
> Those Noctua fans are dead silent. I'm a little worried that they're not strong enough, but I have no idea what they're set at by default. Tomorrow I'll connect everything (monitor, keyboard, etc...) and install Windows 7. I'm kind of sad to be leaving Windows XP though.
> 
> Thanks to everyone that helped me during this arduous process.
> 
> Here's some pics. My cable management is non-existent. I have literally no idea how you can figure out ways of hiding cables because I can't.


You hide the cables behind the mobo. You can also remove the plastic slider on the hdd cages. The fans are fine, as long you have airflow within case.


----------



## nitroxyl

Grab the twist ties that come along with your PSU cables and tie them wherever you see an extruded piece of D-shaped metal. I don't know how else to describe those things, but you can definitely use them to organize your cables.


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> YES, I did it and everything works!!!


Fester what components did you go with. ie case, mobo, cpu etc?.
Regarding cable management there is no set instruction, its just doing the best you can to route/hide each cable/ make it as neat as possible and use the casesrouting grommets to their full potiential.


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> It's not just saving space, it'll also make it easier to carry around and when you're in a dorm, space is precious


Degree im with you on this one. My next case will be a mAtx rather than another ATX. Even just a few cm seems to make a huge difference to the whole look/feel of the case.


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> YES, I did it and everything works!!!
> 
> The 1st time I tried turning it on it wouldn't start, but I realized that it was because I had the power and reset two pin connectors plugged in vertically and not horizontally into the motherboard.
> 
> Those Noctua fans are dead silent. I'm a little worried that they're not strong enough, but I have no idea what they're set at by default. Tomorrow I'll connect everything (monitor, keyboard, etc...) and install Windows 7. I'm kind of sad to be leaving Windows XP though.
> 
> Thanks to everyone that helped me during this arduous process.
> 
> Here's some pics. My cable management is non-existent. I have literally no idea how you can figure out ways of hiding cables because I can't.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **SO MANY CABLES!!!**
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You'll gradually get better at the cable hiding, I have the same PSU and interior layout almost if not identical (Midi R2).

Just use some cable ties and make as much use of the rear of the motherboard tray and management grommets as possible.


----------



## Fester1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> Fester what components did you go with. ie case, mobo, cpu etc?.
> Regarding cable management there is no set instruction, its just doing the best you can to route/hide each cable/ make it as neat as possible and use the casesrouting grommets to their full potiential.


The components are listed in my rig. I don't get why people care so much about cable management. It's not like I'll be giving tours to the inside of my case, lol.

Thanks again for all the help.


----------



## one4hope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> T It's not like I'll be giving tours to the inside of my case, lol.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help.


You might want to one day!

Dude, your case could be so clean. Start but shoving all that mess at the bottom through the grommet. The idea is to get as much of it behind the mobo tray as possible


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fester1*
> 
> ...
> My cable management is non-existent. I have literally no idea how you can figure out ways of hiding cables because I can't.
> ...


Easy way of doing cable management:
#1. Non-modular PSU? Skip to #2. | Remove all cables you wont be needing from the PSU
#2. Pull ALL the cables from the PSU back behind the motherboard tray trough the closes grommet(s)
#3. Pull the case cables(front IO, fans etc) behind the motherboard tray
#4. Pull the cables you need trough the closest grommet to where the connector on the motherboard/gpu/etc is and connect it.
#5. Cable tie cables behind the motherboard tray to the anchors on the motherboard tray to make them stick out a little bit less
#6. FORCE the sidepanel on
#7. Enjoy high airflow and less dust buildup.


----------



## smoke2

I'm wondering to buy for my new Fractal R4 one Enermax UCTB14 or UCTB14B fan.
I have some questions:
1. Do you have one of these in your R4? How is loud and how good are cooling capabilities?
2. Are they work also on 5V and 7V voltage?
3. Which one is better?

I want to add it on the front bottom position to cool down my harddrives mainly and to move original R2 fan to the front above position for cool down my GPU which would be probably 280X or Tri-X 290.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm wondering to buy for my new Fractal R4 one Enermax UCTB14 or UCTB14B fan.
> I have some questions:
> 1. Do you have one of these in your R4? How is loud and how good are cooling capabilities?
> 2. Are they work also on 5V and 7V voltage?
> 3. Which one is better?
> 
> I want to add it on the front bottom position to cool down my harddrives mainly and to move original R2 fan to the front above position for cool down my GPU which would be probably 280X or Tri-X 290.


Those fans are already at 750rpm, so there is no reason to go 5v/7v with them. At those speeds they are not high airflow. They are meant for silence.
R4 is a little more restrictive than the Midi R2.
As long you have good unrestricted airflow then the overall temps would be fine.


----------



## Csokis

That's the FD Support!









I received my Fractal Design ARC XL, unfortunately with one of its frontal feet broken.











Contact with support, and 3 days later:



Complete 4 feets (and swedish bill)!









Well done Fractal Design!


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Those fans are already at 750rpm, so there is no reason to go 5v/7v with them. At those speeds they are not high airflow. They are meant for silence.
> R4 is a little more restrictive than the Midi R2.
> As long you have good unrestricted airflow then the overall temps would be fine.


Where I have to situate it?
At the upper front position or lower front position? I have upper disk cage removed.
Or have you some other tips for good 140mm fan for R4?


----------



## rcoolb2002

Hi guys,

Finally made it to Stage1 of my project in a Define Mini.

Ran into a bit of a glitch and had to use a single black tube. The whole point was to see which one looks better though, so let me know what you think.

Eventually the red will all be green, just no paint readily available at this moment.

Still need to sleeve everything etc but its progress!












Later I will be going cpu block with a 240 across the top as well, but wanna go x-fire 290x first. Just upgraded from x-fire 7970s


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> Degree im with you on this one. My next case will be a mAtx rather than another ATX. Even just a few cm seems to make a huge difference to the whole look/feel of the case.


Yea, I wasn't expecting my switch 810 to be so big when it arrived at my door LOL
I should have looked at the measurements before buying. It looks a lot smaller in videos and pics

I'll take anything smaller than the switch 810 lol, who would've thought a few cms would be so much


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Csokis*
> 
> That's the FD Support!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I received my Fractal Design ARC XL, unfortunately with one of its frontal feet broken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Contact with support, and 3 days later:
> 
> 
> 
> Complete 4 feets (and swedish bill)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well done Fractal Design!


They DO have very good customer relations! I asked about possible R4 revision..

Thanks for your e-mail.
Currently there is no information about when the next revision of the Define cases will be available.

/ Fractal Design team

Got it in a day or so. Lol worth a shot.

I'll probably buy my R4 next week. A NCIX opened up close by my place which is also great!


----------



## GMSTSGK

Hello all, decided to join the club, and took some pictures of my build with a brand new Arc Mini R2, previous case was Arc Midi, and wanted something smaller, and the new features of the case were just perfect for me.
Nothing too fancy, just tried to be simple and as clean as possible. I struggled a bit with light conditions, and used a flashlight sometimes to get some more exposure, thus the ocasional flares, sorry about that.

Edit: The odd position of the H60 radiator was because i couldnt fit it anywere else!.. i wanted it in the other, usual spot, but the top mesh of the case would not fit, it would hit the Rad if i mounted it in the first fan holes, so im not sure if its a design flaw, Radiator design, or if it was me doing something wrong.. :S left me wondering how could i fit a 240mm Rad.













Some extra front fan filters



The cable mess. Will change those old sata power adapters someday..

Im considering a white Led strip from bitfenix to light the interior since it have such a nice window, but im not sure.


And thats it..







Cheers


----------



## Iniura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Finally made it to Stage1 of my project in a Define Mini.
> 
> Ran into a bit of a glitch and had to use a single black tube. The whole point was to see which one looks better though, so let me know what you think.
> 
> Eventually the red will all be green, just no paint readily available at this moment.
> 
> Still need to sleeve everything etc but its progress!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Later I will be going cpu block with a 240 across the top as well, but wanna go x-fire 290x first. Just upgraded from x-fire 7970s


Nice, I prefer the black tubing I think it will look nicer with green painted fans and green sleeving as planned.


----------



## pkrexer

Very nice build! Makes me think I should have gone with the Mini R2 and completely did away with my hard drive cage (and 5.25" bay)... Slim 360 rad up top, a Monsta 240 rad in the front... that'd be a killer setup in a small little case like that.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMSTSGK*
> 
> Hello all, decided to join the club, and took some pictures of my build with a brand new Arc Mini R2, previous case was Arc Midi, and wanted something smaller, and the new features of the case were just perfect for me.
> Nothing too fancy, just tried to be simple and as clean as possible. I struggled a bit with light conditions, and used a flashlight sometimes to get some more exposure, thus the ocasional flares, sorry about that.
> 
> Edit: The odd position of the H60 radiator was because i couldnt fit it anywere else!.. i wanted it in the other, usual spot, but the top mesh of the case would not fit, it would hit the Rad if i mounted it in the first fan holes, so im not sure if its a design flaw, Radiator design, or if it was me doing something wrong.. :S left me wondering how could i fit a 240mm Rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some extra front fan filters
> 
> 
> 
> The cable mess. Will change those old sata power adapters someday..
> 
> Im considering a white Led strip from bitfenix to light the interior since it have such a nice window, but im not sure.
> 
> 
> And thats it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMSTSGK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cable mess. Will change those old sata power adapters someday..


Get some lutro0 cable combs! http://www.overclock.net/t/1451088/cable-comb-thread-design-and-ideas-welcome/0_50#post_21758340

Nice clean build I'm jealous.


----------



## athlon 64

I think i posted pics of my R4 in this club last year. But i forgot to show you how it all looks now when it's rebuilt in the arc mini r2. I love that case but i hate plexiglass on the sidepannel. I'm thinking about replacing it with glass. Plexy get's scratched so easy...

http://imageshack.com/a/img9/8422/joe0.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img842/701/f87m.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img138/1905/7xyo.jpg


----------



## kynho

its possible to mount 2x120mm fans in front of core 3000? or its only possible with 1x120mm and 1x140mm?







thanks for answer


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iniura*
> 
> Nice, I prefer the black tubing I think it will look nicer with green painted fans and green sleeving as planned.


Thanks









Yeah I think the black tubing will be allright as well!


----------



## n3gr0

My new Arc mini R2.


----------



## gdubc

I love those colors. Looks great!


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n3gr0*
> 
> My new Arc mini R2.


What kind of graphics cards you running? I had the same look laid out pretty much. I just have to decide on a psu. I guess the 850 is enough for that setup? overclocking too?

ps. Looks awesome!


----------



## SclerosiS

Im not sure but if you want 2x120 fans think that you have to get a 140 to 120 fan adapter for the front upper fan position.


----------



## smoke2

How good are stock R2 140mm fans from Fractal?
Are they inaudible on 7V?
Have they rattling sound or some other undesired symptoms?
Can they last long time without having to become noisier?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> How good are stock R2 140mm fans from Fractal?
> Are they inaudible on 7V?
> Have they rattling sound or some other undesired symptoms?
> Can they last long time without having to become noisier?


My R4 is under my desk at my feet, so just a few feet from my head, and I thought they were inaudible at max speed. I had to crouch down and put my head near the case to hear them. And even then it was just a low hum. I do have moderate ambient noise in my room though, there's a laptop cooler that's going 24/7, and while it's halfway across the room, it's not quiet. I heard no rattling whether they were mounted horizontally or vertically.

But I've no clue how long they last because I swapped item out. They really do not move much air IMHO, especially behind a filter. Build quality seems solid though, as with anything by Fractal. Nice sleeving on the cables too. I would have used them as exhausts where I think they'd be fine but I had a stack of Noctuas so I just went with those.


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> My R4 is under my desk at my feet, so just a few feet from my head, and I thought they were inaudible at max speed. I had to crouch down and put my head near the case to hear them. And even then it was just a low hum. I do have moderate ambient noise in my room though, there's a laptop cooler that's going 24/7, and while it's halfway across the room, it's not quiet. I heard no rattling whether they were mounted horizontally or vertically.
> 
> But I've no clue how long they last because I swapped item out. They really do not move much air IMHO, especially behind a filter. Build quality seems solid though, as with anything by Fractal. Nice sleeving on the cables too. I would have used them as exhausts where I think they'd be fine but I had a stack of Noctuas so I just went with those.


Can you try to lower the voltage through regulator on 7V and then if you cannot hear some kind of rattling?

I would like to fit my two 3.5" hard drives into bottom cage and remove the upper cage.
Do you think it helps to cool down the GPU when I add one fan also on the upper front position?


----------



## phlip00ws6

New Arc Mini air cooled build:


----------



## Anoxy

I don't normally like air cooled builds, but that looks really nice. Great job


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> Can you try to lower the voltage through regulator on 7V and then if you cannot hear some kind of rattling?
> 
> I would like to fit my two 3.5" hard drives into bottom cage and remove the upper cage.
> Do you think it helps to cool down the GPU when I add one fan also on the upper front position?


Lol I'm feeling so lazy I dunno if I can be bothered to use a voltage adapter or plug into fan controller. But, when I had them in, they were controlled by Asus Fan Xpert 2, which is DC mobo control. The fans ran at minimum speed, whatever the starting voltage is, and made no clicking noises. If I crack my case open anytime soon I'll try it and pm you.

As for fans, I consider the lower front intake an hdd cooler, after the filter and the the non-rotatable bottom hdd cage, very little air makes it into the case. The upper front is a must. The stock fan comes pre-installed there for a reason. I've never run the case without that upper front intake.

I find the bottom fan mount makes a significant difference in temps for both cpu and gpu.

The side fan as intake lowers gpu temp by 3-5c, but only at low to moderate rpms. Too much rpm there and I don't see the benefit on gpu temps. I think, but am not sure, that it raises cpu and mobo temps slightly. Can't be sure because I don't run the side fan without a gpu installed, and a gpu alone reduces intake flow to the cpu cooler.

Side fan as exhaust performs worse than intake, by 2-4c. No side fan is worst of all, though it's about the same as side fan as exhaust.


----------



## destrano1

Alright, so in theory, I would like to change the Power LED from RED to BLUE on my Define R4, has anyone done this and could by chance walk me through it? It'd be much appreciated.


----------



## Kimir

Yes, I've done that, fairly easy. Just get the front panel of to access the led.


----------



## phlip00ws6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anoxy*
> 
> I don't normally like air cooled builds, but that looks really nice. Great job


Thanks!


----------



## destrano1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, I've done that, fairly easy. Just get the front panel of to access the led.


Yeah, I went and found a video for it, I'll pry be doing it in a week or two, red just doesn't fit with the color scheme I'm going for, lol.


----------



## beans444

Hey for all the Arc Midi/mini water cooling users what kind of clock speeds are you getting on the cpu/gpu?
I'm down for hitting 75C max on water when I get my parts in. I'm ordering in a six core x58 processor, I want to Max out this rig!


----------



## mercuk

Anyone any thoughts as to what this refers to.
The below description suggests No fan controller is included but a 3x Fan controller is usually included with the Arc Mini R2 case.

Fractal Design Arc MIDI R2 Tower Computer Case 2X5.25 8X3.5INT *No PS Fan Controller & Front USB3.0*

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227&vpn=FD-CA-ARC-R2-BL-W&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1084


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> Anyone any thoughts as to what this refers to.
> The below description suggests No fan controller is included but a 3x Fan controller is usually included with the Arc Mini R2 case.
> 
> Fractal Design Arc MIDI R2 Tower Computer Case 2X5.25 8X3.5INT *No PS Fan Controller & Front USB3.0*
> 
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=78227&vpn=FD-CA-ARC-R2-BL-W&manufacture=Fractal%20Design&promoid=1084


Think it's supposed to say NO PSU. It'll definitely have a fan controller.


----------



## n3gr0

THANKS guys!!.

My setup is:
i2500k @ 4,6ghz | SLI GTX 680 @ 1200
Asus p8z77 m-pro | 16 RipjawsX 2133mhz
Corsair AX850 | Crucial m4 256
Fractal Arc mini R2

Yes the psu can with this and I think it could move other 680







. The temps are incredble, 55º max in gpus after 3-4 hours of battlefield 4, and cpu only 68º-69º (prime95), but I don´t need more tan 4,6ghz.


----------



## beans444

WOW perfect. Thank you!







it's a beauty case. I'll probably buy which ever R4/R2 midi is available at my local store. This is appreciated information and to everyone else as well. Thanks.

Cheers!


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Hey for all the Arc Midi/mini water cooling users what kind of clock speeds are you getting on the cpu/gpu?
> I'm down for hitting 75C max on water when I get my parts in. I'm ordering in a six core x58 processor, I want to Max out this rig!


Your question is too subjective to answer. It would depend upon the model CPU and GPU. Also cooling/rad size and voltage are a factor. In essence, it is impossible answer such a question without knowing all the variables. Can you be more specific?


----------



## smoke2

I would like to ask owners of R4 Titanium Grey.
Doesn't front panel reflecting the light?
I'm planning to have a case next to my head on the desk.


----------



## pkrexer

So I'm thinking of making my own 3.5" Hard Drive mount somehow so I can stick it on the back of my motherboard tray (or 5.25" bay) so than I can completely remove the drive cage from the case. I think it would be cleaner, give me more room for a bigger front radiator if I decide to upgrade later on and allow me to still use the bottom fan mount.

I was thinking of making the mount with some sheet aluminum.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> So I'm thinking of making my own 3.5" Hard Drive mount somehow so I can stick it on the back of my motherboard tray (or 5.25" bay) so than I can completely remove the drive cage from the case. I think it would be cleaner, give me more room for a bigger front radiator if I decide to upgrade later on and allow me to still use the bottom fan mount.
> 
> I was thinking of making the mount with some sheet aluminum.


Biggest you can fit in the front is a 60mm radiator + push/pull fans (25mm). Though I think you could fit a monsta up front (80mm thick rad) It would certainly be close. It also woulfn't leave you with much space inside the case for pump and res.

Temps for me
CPU: 50c
GPU: 52c

Both full load after hours. Rig specs in sig.


----------



## suburban78

Just finished my Arc-Midi Build. Thought I would share. I have about 40hr into this build. I Started off with this case originally and happened across a AIR 540 case for free so I switched into that for a minuet but just didn't like it. So I started to tinker and this is the final result.


----------



## incog

Looks good, what kind of hardware do you have in that?


----------



## suburban78

It's all the parts from my SR-71 system in my signature.


----------



## Joshhat

Looking at the Fractal Design ARC Midi R2 and I'm going to be running it on air for a while, I'm wondering when you remove both the HDD Racks where are you left to store your Hard Drive? I only have one Hard Drive & a SSD.

Thanks


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshhat*
> 
> Looking at the Fractal Design ARC Midi R2 and I'm going to be running it on air for a while, I'm wondering when you remove both the HDD Racks where are you left to store your Hard Drive? I only have one Hard Drive & a SSD.
> 
> Thanks


SSD could go behind the motherboard tray and the HDD in the optical bay.

You could also put it anywhere using velcro.


----------



## Joshhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> SSD could go behind the motherboard tray and the HDD in the optical bay.
> 
> You could also put it anywhere using velcro.


I was thinking about putting it in the Optical Bay, I found this but I can't find one located here in Australia. I'm defiantly thinking I will just mount a HDD with Velcro as the can be at any rotation?

Also what's cable management like? My Zalman Z3 cable management is horrible and I have nowhere to stick the darn cables.

I'll probably order this case tommorow if I'm dead set sure about it. I'm pretty sure I'm set with this case as it looks and I'm hoping performs amazingly?


----------



## incog

You could probably store them in the top 5"25 bays:

http://www.fractal-design.com/media/b4b95178-3a07-412a-a480-2da7363e0a8a


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshhat*
> 
> I was thinking about putting it in the Optical Bay, I found this but I can't find one located here in Australia. I'm defiantly thinking I will just mount a HDD with Velcro as the can be at any rotation?
> 
> Also what's cable management like? My Zalman Z3 cable management is horrible and I have nowhere to stick the darn cables.
> 
> I'll probably order this case tommorow if I'm dead set sure about it. I'm pretty sure I'm set with this case as it looks and I'm hoping performs amazingly?


Cable management is easy in this case. I have the R4 which has the same layout as the Midi R2 but I have less room behind the motherboard because of the foam on the side panel.

I've got the 24 pin, 8 pin, 4 x 6 pin PCI-E and 2 x Molex coming from my PSU as well as the cables from my H100i, fan controller etc. and I can attach the side panel without it bulging and in my opinion my rig is quite neat and shows little of the cables.

Just take your time and plan it out and you'll have a nice looking rig.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshhat*
> 
> Looking at the Fractal Design ARC Midi R2 and I'm going to be running it on air for a while, I'm wondering when you remove both the HDD Racks where are you left to store your Hard Drive? I only have one Hard Drive & a SSD.
> 
> Thanks


You can move the lower HDD bay over towards the PSU.


----------



## kynho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshhat*
> 
> Looking at the Fractal Design ARC Midi R2 and I'm going to be running it on air for a while, I'm wondering when you remove both the HDD Racks where are you left to store your Hard Drive? I only have one Hard Drive & a SSD.
> 
> Thanks


http://dx.com/p/akasa-ak-hda-05-2-5-3-5-ssd-hdd-to-5-25-drive-rack-bracket-adapter-black-163348#.UwcvGfl5P10

This!


----------



## pkrexer

People with water cooled Midi R2, how do you have your radiators setup? I have my front radiator setup for intake and my top radiator running as exhaust. I've been reading up on it and sounds like I could get some better temps by having the top radiator being an intake as well. I'm just wondering if my 140mm rear fan would be enough for exhaust.


----------



## lurker2501

Question of the day: will mdpc 1/2 tube sleeve fit under the 1/2 XSPC compressions?

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-tools/sleeve-kits/tubing-sleeve-pack.htm


----------



## BWAS1000

Anyone know if I can throw a 280mm radiator up top in the arc mini? or am I limited to 240?


----------



## taem

Can I solicit some advice? Been chatting with a guy who has a Define R3 who just got an R9 290 open air cooler gpu. He's running stock Fractal fans, one in front one in rear, and he needs to improve his case cooling. The hdd cage on this case is fixed laterally.

Could anyone recommend some fans he might pick up? He was looking at Noctua S12a for the front mounts which I don't think are the best choice. The stock Fractal fans will move to rear and top as exhausts.

I was thinking he might want a pair of high pressure 120mms for the front, since the hdd cage doesn't rotate or come out, and 140mms for side and bottom. But what fans would be cost effective for these mounts?

Edit, how about Swiftech Helix? Two 120s for front, two 140s for side and bottom, superb cfm and pressure ratings, cost $10-11 each. I almost got these for myself, but I had Noctuas lying around so I couldn't justify it.


----------



## valkeriefire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> People with water cooled Midi R2, how do you have your radiators setup? I have my front radiator setup for intake and my top radiator running as exhaust. I've been reading up on it and sounds like I could get some better temps by having the top radiator being an intake as well. I'm just wondering if my 140mm rear fan would be enough for exhaust.


I am running this kind of setup. I have a 240mm rad in the top and a 280 rad in the front. Both set to intake with a single 140mm exhaust fan. This positive pressure in the case and should help reduce dust.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkeriefire*
> 
> I finally finished the loop on my Arc Midi R2. I've got a XSPC AX240mm RAD in the roof, and a Alphacool 280 UT60 in the front.
> 
> Temps are not amazing water water cooling standards since I only have 2 rads and neither is a 360. But in benchmarks with the GPUs overvolted, I never go over 65C and in BF4 gaming with the fans at low very quiet settings I get 55C on the GPUs. The CPU runs 65-70C at 100% which is pretty much identical to my NH-D14, so no real change there.
> 
> 
> 
> BEFORE
> 
> 
> 
> AFTER
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Progess
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to cut the metal over the 5.25" drive cage to fit the pump through, XSPC didn't design it to fit too well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU Close Ups
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MyNameIsWill

My new fractal R4 build is finished!

I had a AMD Fractal R4, now i switched over to the i7 4770k >=) i love the airflow in this case!!!!!!!!!! it looks a lot better with the side window on but i forgot to take pictures of it like that haha


----------



## incog

Nice socks.

Do the fans on the top of your case push air out? Just curious. Nice rig overall, I like it.

I also like how clean valk's rig is. good job on that as well. everyone's rig here is so clean


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> So close.


----------



## pkrexer

So I went ahead and completely removed the HD cages and moved my hard drives to the back. Getting pretty crammed back there but its all about whats in the front... errr Anyway, since making the changes, cooling has definitely improved. GPU / CPU on average has dropped 4C on load temps. I have some GT AP-15's that I'll be swapping in next week, so I expect temps to further improve.

Plus who knows, with all this space up front now... I'm tempted to throw in a Monsta 240.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> So I went ahead and completely removed the HD cages and moved my hard drives to the back. Getting pretty crammed back there but its all about whats in the front... errr Anyway, since making the changes, cooling has definitely improved. GPU / CPU on average has dropped 4C on load temps. I have some GT AP-15's that I'll be swapping in next week, so I expect temps to further improve.
> 
> Plus who knows, with all this space up front now... I'm tempted to throw in a Monsta 240.


Nicely done. The plastic rail under the ODD can be removed. You just need a long screwdriver to go through the top holes.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Hi guys, i am new to overclock forum but i´m looking forward to my new case. At this point i cant decide between Arc Mini R2 (window version) or Define Mini. I know that Arc has better cooling and ssd options, but define is quiet a silent case, what is also important.
Also was thinking to put Seidon 120v in that case, has it enough cooling power or should i go 212 evo? Processor is 760k, which i am planning to oc a bit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Hi guys, i am new to overclock forum but i´m looking forward to my new case. At this point i cant decide between Arc Mini R2 (window version) or Define Mini. I know that Arc has better cooling and ssd options, but define is quiet a silent case, what is also important.
> Also was thinking to put Seidon 120v in that case, has it enough cooling power or should i go 212 evo? Processor is 760k, which i am planning to oc a bit.


The layout style is the same inside.
Sound dampening dont really do much, It soften the sound from inside. You can get silent from Mini R2 with slower speed fan or using fan controller.
The Mini R2 supports 240 and 360 rad on top (optical bay removed)

Which processor? Both those cases are Matx form factor.


----------



## Peanuts4

So I have one of these cases with the window no side vents and I'll be using instead of my Lian Li case. I love my Lian Li case but the airflow just isn't up to running a OCed gaming rig that well. So I'm looking to see how I can best maximize one of these Fractal design R2s.

The thing I'm unsure of is fan placement and positive pressure. I previously had a CM690 which had basically the same fan layout as the Arc Mid R2 and it was a magnet for dust. I contacted Fractal Design and asked someone there about optimal fan placements and they recommended just 2 fans in the front, 1 on the back, none on top, for best air flow.

Has anyone tried with fans running on and off the top I'm curious what sort of temp difference it makes.

Also I have a 140mm Lian Li fan, I would imagine it would blow away one of the Fractal design fans so I would imagine the front is where I should put it. If I purchase another Lian Li fan should I run 2 Lian Li's in the front and keep the fractal design fan on the back to help with positive pressure? I'm hoping it will keep the system cool and the dust out.

How is positive pressure influenced by the holes on the top?

Thanks


----------



## F4lkon

Hi mates, is it possible to purchase separately ARC midi R2 front panel ?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F4lkon*
> 
> Hi mates, is it possible to purchase separately ARC midi R2 front panel ?


I'd contact fractal about that. They said they were selling the Arc Mini R2 (And I'd assume Arc midi R2) side panels soon, but nothing about front.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Anybody have a water cooler in the 605?


----------



## Bumtsiki

Ordered my Arc Mini R2 today, cant wait until it arrives. Is it good idea to put 2.5" hdd behind motherboard ? Might it overheat ?


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Anybody have a water cooler in the 605?


I have the case but from memory I don't think it's possible to fit it in as there would be clashes with the motherboard.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Ordered my Arc Mini R2 today, cant wait until it arrives. Is it good idea to put 2.5" hdd behind motherboard ? Might it overheat ?


Is it a HDD or SSD. I wouldn't put a HDD there due to vibrations. SSD's are fine although I would recommend Velcro rather than fixing it with screws. Makes it easier to remove etc.


----------



## fredocini

has anyone tried using fan splitters for the fractal design define r4 or the xl r2 fan controller? would adding another fan short out the fan controller built in or should i just install a separate fan controller?


----------



## mercuk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredocini*
> 
> has anyone tried using fan splitters for the fractal design define r4 or the xl r2 fan controller? would adding another fan short out the fan controller built in or should i just install a separate fan controller?


It should be fine adding the additional fan on the splitter
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Ordered my Arc Mini R2 today, cant wait until it arrives. Is it good idea to put 2.5" hdd behind motherboard ? Might it overheat ?.


Can i ask where you ordered your mini from?. Ive been holdng out for a good deal on a Arc mini but yet to see any. The define is always on offer.
Regarding your HDrive question. That mount is designed for SSD i wouldnt mount normal Hdd their due to heat.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> Nice socks.
> 
> Do the fans on the top of your case push air out? Just curious. Nice rig overall, I like it.
> 
> I also like how clean valk's rig is. good job on that as well. everyone's rig here is so clean


Yeah it pushes air out. My temps in the case are good since it has great air flow. Couldn't be happier. =) sorry for late reply, and thanks for the socks comment lmao.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mercuk*
> 
> It should be fine adding the additional fan on the splitter
> Can i ask where you ordered your mini from?. Ive been holdng out for a good deal on a Arc mini but yet to see any. The define is always on offer.
> Regarding your HDrive question. That mount is designed for SSD i wouldnt mount normal Hdd their due to heat.


I ordered mine from Estonia, got the windowed version about 66 euros.
Answer to the hdd mount, i´m gonna use ssd + 2,5" hdd, wanted to mount both behine motherboard tray to get nice stealthy look. If it is not reccommended ( 2,5" hdd) i am probably switch it out and use ordinary 3,5 hdd.


----------



## aljbaba

Hi guys,
I'm building a new PC and want to use the Fractal Design R4 in combination with the ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition. I think I saw posts that it would fit but would it fit with the two HDD cages too? (I only saw pictures without them).
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/30kdG

Best regards


----------



## Joshhat

Just ordered my Fractal Design Arc Midi r2; along with a 770. I'll be sure to post some photos!


----------



## CHLODZENIEnet

Recently i'm a fan of


----------



## aljbaba

I would use the Define XL R2 if the MB doesn't fit in the R4 too. But if it would fit, I would prefer the smaller option. But I'm not sure if it would fit


----------



## mxfreek09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> I would use the Define XL R2 if the MB doesn't fit in the R4 too. But if it would fit, I would prefer the smaller option. But I'm not sure if it would fit


I have seen multiple builds with E-ATX boards in a an R4 like this one:

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3740#post_17930122

I would imagine you can get a RIVB in the case. The biggest thing is the board partially covering up the grommets for cable routing so you gotta get a little bit creative if you want to keep all of your cables hidden.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxfreek09*
> 
> I have seen multiple builds with E-ATX boards in a an R4 like this one:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3740#post_17930122
> 
> I would imagine you can get a RIVB in the case. The biggest thing is the board partially covering up the grommets for cable routing so you gotta get a little bit creative if you want to keep all of your cables hidden.


I have seen this build too. The cablemanagement looks uncomplicated. Is the RIVB bigger than the Maximus V Formula? I can't find the dimesnions at asus.com


----------



## Kimir

Yes, RIVE and R4BE fit in R4.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, RIVE and R4BE fit in R4.


Thank you! Finally i can order my new PC








What do you think about my components? I need something powerfull but no too pricy to work with Premiere, After Effects and DaVinci Resolve (HD and a little bit 4K)


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> Thank you! Finally i can order my new PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think about my components? I need something powerfull but no too pricy to work with Premiere, After Effects and DaVinci Resolve (HD and a little bit 4K)


Seems about right. I was wondering why that amount of HDD but now I get it, video editing...








I don't know what that power supply is worth but you could get a Corsair AX760 or Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W for less $. I'm not that good into PSU, you should look here or read a little here.
You could consider a AIO watercooling such as the Corsair H80i or H100i, rendering and video encoding will heat up the CPU, those AIO watercooling are known to be good. I had the h100i prior going to full custom loop, it's definitely a good one.
On the RAM I'm more a G.Skill guy unless you go big with Corsair Dominator platinum but I guess you chose those because they are low profil.
Everything else is good.
Look at some additional fan to cool all those HDD too, Phanteks 140mm one are good I heard.


----------



## chris966

Corsair's new H105 AIO is a good option too


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chris966*
> 
> Corsair's new H105 AIO is a good option too


I wasn't aware they released some new ones. Yeah that one look good too, a different oem (one that I like better in fact).


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Seems about right. I was wondering why that amount of HDD but now I get it, video editing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what that power supply is worth but you could get a Corsair AX760 or Super Flower Leadex Gold 750W for less $. I'm not that good into PSU, you should look here or read a little here.
> You could consider a AIO watercooling such as the Corsair H80i or H100i, rendering and video encoding will heat up the CPU, those AIO watercooling are known to be good. I had the h100i prior going to full custom loop, it's definitely a good one.
> On the RAM I'm more a G.Skill guy unless you go big with Corsair Dominator platinum but I guess you chose those because they are low profil.
> Everything else is good.
> Look at some additional fan to cool all those HDD too, Phanteks 140mm one are good I heard.


Yes, I need a few HDDs for the mass of videofiles







I wanted to set the 4 HDDs in combination with this controller http://geizhals.de/eu/dawicontrol-dc-624e-raid-a877970.html in Raid 5.
I don't remember where I read this but somebody wrote about the Corsair PSU that it would start every 10-15 minutes the fan and it's noisy and annoying (I would prefer a quiet PC







) but if this isn't true and the Corsair AX760 is quiet, I would prefer to pay less and will buy the Corsair.

And I choose the LP Ram because the Noctua CPU Cooler is really big and I was worried that another Ram wouldn't fit. But if you commend the Corsair H100i or H105 I could use another Ram too.
Please let me know what you think, I'm really happy about your advise


----------



## chris966

Yeah, i have one now that i am going to "shoehorn" into a Fractal Design Core 1000 with a fair bit of modding


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> Yes, I need a few HDDs for the mass of videofiles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to set the 4 HDDs in combination with this controller http://geizhals.de/eu/dawicontrol-dc-624e-raid-a877970.html in Raid 5.
> I don't remember where I read this but somebody wrote about the Corsair PSU that it would start every 10-15 minutes the fan and it's noisy and annoying (I would prefer a quiet PC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but if this isn't true and the Corsair AX760 is quiet, I would prefer to pay less and will buy the Corsair.
> 
> And I choose the LP Ram because the Noctua CPU Cooler is really big and I was worried that another Ram wouldn't fit. But if you commend the Corsair H100i or H105 I could use another Ram too.
> Please let me know what you think, I'm really happy about your advise


I don't know the space left with that Noctua, with the NH-D14 I had back in 2011, the Ripjaws Z were fitting nicely. If I had to pick up 32Gb of ram today, I'd pick those one: G.Skill F3-2133C9Q-32GZH. Cas 9 and 2133Mhz for 32Gb, it's good. I have the G.Skill F3-12800CL9Q2-32GBZL on my Fractal rig, not using all the ram often, so I chosed to go the other way for my new rig (Trident X arrives tomorrow if postal service aren't messing around again). By the other way, I mean less amount but faster ram.








About the Corsair power supply, I don't know about the 760 but my brother have the AX650 and it's dead silent, graphic card cooler is always the thing that make the most noise, but the R3/R4 have good noise insulation and his rig is silent at all time (he have the R3, I had the R3 before I took the R4, all of them without windows tho).
ps: damn the RAM price these days, when I see the price I paid for my GSkill back in 2011... incredible!


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I don't know the space left with that Noctua, with the NH-D14 I had back in 2011, the Ripjaws Z were fitting nicely. If I had to pick up 32Gb of ram today, I'd pick those one: G.Skill F3-2133C9Q-32GZH. Cas 9 and 2133Mhz for 32Gb, it's good. I have the G.Skill F3-12800CL9Q2-32GBZL on my Fractal rig, not using all the ram often, so I chosed to go the other way for my new rig (Trident X arrives tomorrow if postal service aren't messing around again). By the other way, I mean less amount but faster ram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the Corsair power supply, I don't know about the 760 but my brother have the AX650 and it's dead silent, graphic card cooler is always the thing that make the most noise, but the R3/R4 have good noise insulation and his rig is silent at all time (he have the R3, I had the R3 before I took the R4, all of them without windows tho).
> ps: damn the RAM price these days, when I see the price I paid for my GSkill back in 2011... incredible!


Can you explain what the benefits of an 2100 Mhz Ram against 1600 Mhz are?
I found the critic, but it's about the HX 750 http://www.learningdslrvideo.com/new-editing-computer-build/

Would you replace the fans at the Corsair 105 and at the R4? Maybe with Noctua or be quiet! fans?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> Can you explain what the benefits of an 2100 Mhz Ram against 1600 Mhz are?
> I found the critic, but it's about the HX 750 http://www.learningdslrvideo.com/new-editing-computer-build/
> 
> Would you replace the fans at the Corsair 105 and at the R4? Maybe with Noctua or be quiet! fans?


Here some reading about the memory speed in benchmark and real life application. Let just say it's like CPU frequency, the faster the better. Faster in rendering, since it's what you are going to do.
Well the PSU was an HX, I won't suggest anything else but the AX/AXi serie for Corsair PSU. there is different quality of PSU, check this thread and you could ask the OP about any PSU, I'm sure he will suggest one better than I could.
No, the Corsair fan shipped with the H105 are good one, like SP120 without the ring and they are PWM.


----------



## coelacanth

Just got an Arc Midi R2 (Solid Side Panel) and a bunch of Cougar Vortex PWM fans (2x 120mm for the CPU cooler and 5x 140mm as case fans -- 2 front intake, 1 side intake, 1 top exhaust, 1 back exhaust). I'm going full PWM on the whole case and CPU cooler with a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Here some reading about the memory speed in benchmark and real life application. Let just say it's like CPU frequency, the faster the better. Faster in rendering, since it's what you are going to do.
> Well the PSU was an HX, I won't suggest anything else but the AX/AXi serie for Corsair PSU. there is different quality of PSU, check this thread and you could ask the OP about any PSU, I'm sure he will suggest one better than I could.
> No, the Corsair fan shipped with the H105 are good one, like SP120 without the ring and they are PWM.


Thank you, I will read it. But you're right if it's better for rendering it's the better choice for me.
And if you only made good experiences with the the AX PSU I will trust your advise









And you would only add another fan behind the HDDs and let the other fans stay, correct? I was a little bit worried about the noise and thought it would be better to replace them but if you say it's all right I'm happy to save my money


----------



## Kimir

The R4 comes only with 2 140mm fan, so you could take the back one to put in front. Or get 2x140mm to put in front and use the remaining Fractal one on the door or at the bottom of the case to bring more cool air.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Here some reading about the memory speed in benchmark and real life application. Let just say it's like CPU frequency, the faster the better. Faster in rendering, since it's what you are going to do.
> Well the PSU was an HX, I won't suggest anything else but the AX/AXi serie for Corsair PSU. there is different quality of PSU, check this thread and you could ask the OP about any PSU, I'm sure he will suggest one better than I could.
> No, the Corsair fan shipped with the H105 are good one, like SP120 without the ring and they are PWM.


Yeah from running a TX850w since 2010 I've been trying to eliminate noise. The PSU is louder than the other 9 fans in my antec 1200 build. Grabbing the define R4 tomorrow. Save up for a AX860i


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Yeah from running a TX850w since 2010 I've been trying to eliminate noise. The PSU is louder than the other 9 fans in my antec 1200 build. Grabbing the define R4 tomorrow. Save up for a AX860i


I took apart my TX650 and installed the Fractal R4 140mm case fan... I took off the 3 pin connector from the 140mm R4 fan and the 2 pin connector from the PSU fan and switched them. The difference was crazy. It was impossible to hear the fan basically, especially when other components were on, plus it looked awesome. Just food for thought.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> I took apart my TX650 and installed the Fractal R4 140mm case fan... I took off the 3 pin connector from the 140mm R4 fan and the 2 pin connector from the PSU fan and switched them. The difference was crazy. It was impossible to hear the fan basically, especially when other components were on, plus it looked awesome. Just food for thought.


SERIOUSLY? haha I took mine apart a few times.. I was wondering what if any fan could replace it. I think the fan inside it runs up to 2000rpm or higher?? I didn't want to fry it but I doubt it will. If this is worth it hell I think I might just have to try it out! I'm buying two noctua fans for the define r4 tomorrow and swapping the PSU fan Thanks for the heads up reminder!!


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> SERIOUSLY? haha I took mine apart a few times.. I was wondering what if any fan could replace it. I think the fan inside it runs up to 2000rpm or higher?? I didn't want to fry it though but if this is worth it hell I think I might just have to try it out! I'm buying two noctua fans for the define r4 tomorrow and swapping the PSU fan Thanks for the heads up reminder!!


Anytime, and yeah i bought 2 cougar fans for the from to have great intake fans, and used the stock 140mm R4 fan for the exhaust in the back because it's less of a fight with the H100i or my H220 now. But it's enough to exhaust even more hot air without them fighting for the cool air. The Pic with the TX650 was my AMD which i do not own anymore and you can see the TX650 with the Fractal R4 140mm case fan installed. Looks awesome =D.




This is my new build, I switched to intel =O



Oh and also, if you notice in my pictures, i always take out one of the hard drive bays on the fractal R4 and screw it to the mesh on the bottom of the Fractal R4. It literally makes the vibrations of the HD inaudible. I am a silence FREAK, so any little tick drives me insane. That definitely helped a ton and will do it as long as i have a hard drive in my system... Just another tip if you are interested =P.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> I took apart my TX650 and installed the Fractal R4 140mm case fan... I took off the 3 pin connector from the 140mm R4 fan and the 2 pin connector from the PSU fan and switched them. The difference was crazy. It was impossible to hear the fan basically, especially when other components were on, plus it looked awesome. Just food for thought.


Nice, I was thinking about that same HD idea. I might try velcro it to something like the wall of the back side panel exposing the bottom but I have to find some good stuff. The velcro I got with some cold cathodes before really sucked!. Heat ruined the glue I guess. Be nice to go all SSD but bills gotta be paid.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> Anytime, and yeah i bought 2 cougar fans for the from to have great intake fans, and used the stock 140mm R4 fan for the exhaust in the back because it's less of a fight with the H100i or my H220 now. But it's enough to exhaust even more hot air without them fighting for the cool air. The Pic with the TX650 was my AMD which i do not own anymore and you can see the TX650 with the Fractal R4 140mm case fan installed. Looks awesome =D.
> 
> This is my new build, I switched to intel =O
> 
> Oh and also, if you notice in my pictures, i always take out one of the hard drive bays on the fractal R4 and screw it to the mesh on the bottom of the Fractal R4. It literally makes the vibrations of the HD inaudible. I am a silence FREAK, so any little tick drives me insane. That definitely helped a ton and will do it as long as i have a hard drive in my system... Just another tip if you are interested =P.


Looks great!
I believe I have seen your build before and your build is the reason why I asked if the HDDs will fit with an EATX, because you havent't used the HDD-cages








For me it's important too to have as less noise as possible. That's the reason, why I thought to use the be quiet! Dark Power Pro 10 750 PSU, their are build to be quiet out of the box.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> The R4 comes only with 2 140mm fan, so you could take the back one to put in front. Or get 2x140mm to put in front and use the remaining Fractal one on the door or at the bottom of the case to bring more cool air.


So you wouldn't let the fan at the back?

Can I I ask, why you choose 2 gtx 780ti than one gtx titan for your new project?







That would be an alternative for me too, maybe now I would buy only one 780ti and the other one in the future, if needed.


----------



## MyNameIsWill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> Looks great!
> I believe I have seen your build before and your build is the reason why I asked if the HDDs will fit with an EATX, because you havent't used the HDD-cages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For me it's important too to have as less noise as possible. That's the reason, why I thought to use the be quiet! Dark Power Pro 10 750 PSU, their are build to be quiet out of the box.


Thanks for the compliment =). But I'm not sure of the question you are asking. EATX is bigger than ATX right? So are you asking if it will fit into the Fractal R4? I take out the HDD cages because i want the fans to have a less restrictive path for better air flow. And mount the HDD on the bottom to have 0 vibrations =D. I hear a buzzing from my h220 CPU cooler but i heard that can be fixed by uncapping the fill port and taking out all the air and sealing it with almost full liquid. Not sure if it's worth risking the h220 tho.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MyNameIsWill*
> 
> Thanks for the compliment =). But I'm not sure of the question you are asking. EATX is bigger than ATX right? So are you asking if it will fit into the Fractal R4? I take out the HDD cages because i want the fans to have a less restrictive path for better air flow. And mount the HDD on the bottom to have 0 vibrations =D. I hear a buzzing from my h220 CPU cooler but i heard that can be fixed by uncapping the fill port and taking out all the air and sealing it with almost full liquid. Not sure if it's worth risking the h220 tho.


The combination of an 6core CPU with a nice but not too big MB brings me in troubles







I would like to use something like the new GA-Z87X-UD7 TH with nice features like TB 2 but it seems like there are only QuadCore 1150 CPUs for that kind of MBs and if I want to pick a HexaCore LGA 2011 I do not have this great selection,,,


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> So you wouldn't let the fan at the back?
> 
> Can I I ask, why you choose 2 gtx 780ti than one gtx titan for your new project?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That would be an alternative for me too, maybe now I would buy only one 780ti and the other one in the future, if needed.


I do use a fan in the back, but with all the hdd you'll have in front, I strongly suggest to have a second one. And better take some silent one, right?
I wil never go with reference PCB anymore with graphic cards, I like to overclock and going paste the limit nvidia set (1.212v). I have no fear with the Kingpin classified that are made for LN2 (I want to try that, one day maybe...).
With what you want to do with your rig, you could have the need of the 6gb vram over the 3gb you get with the 780Ti, that's why I didn't comment your choice on that.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I do use a fan in the back, but with all the hdd you'll have in front, I strongly suggest to have a second one. And better take some silent one, right?
> I wil never go with reference PCB anymore with graphic cards, I like to overclock and going paste the limit nvidia set (1.212v). I have no fear with the Kingpin classified that are made for LN2 (I want to try that, one day maybe...).
> With what you want to do with your rig, you could have the need of the 6gb vram over the 3gb you get with the 780Ti, that's why I didn't comment your choice on that.


Ok, so I will place two in the front and one in the back, so must buy another one and yes I would prefer a silent one.

Correct, the "only" 3GB of the 780ti could be a problem.

Do you have an advise for a nice motherboard for the i7 4930k? I see you chose the Rampage IV Extreme.


----------



## Kimir

I goes with the Rampage IV extreme on my new rig because I couldn't find the Rampage 4 black edition (seems in stock now) and the 100€ more for the few new thing I don't really care was just to much. Only down side for that build is it won't be all black in the inside because of that.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I goes with the Rampage IV extreme on my new rig because I couldn't find the Rampage 4 black edition (seems in stock now) and the 100€ more for the few new thing I don't really care was just to much. Only down side for that build is it won't be all black in the inside because of that.


I see. And the Rampage IV black and the IV extreme have the same dimensions?


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> I see. And the Rampage IV black and the IV extreme have the same dimensions?


Yes, the same "E-ATX" 305 x 272 mm (not real one in fact)
Quote:


> Although true E-ATX is 12 × 13 in (305 × 330 mm) most motherboard manufacturers also refer to motherboards with measurements 12 × 10.1 in (305 × 257 mm), 12 × 10.4 in (305 × 264 mm), 12 × 10.5 in (305 × 267 mm) and 12 × 10.7 in (305 × 272 mm) as E-ATX.
> Wiki


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, the same "E-ATX" 305 x 272 mm (not real one in fact)


Thank you! I was a afraid that the H105 won't fit above the MB or I couldn't reach the holes for the cables.


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aljbaba*
> 
> Thank you! I was a afraid that the H105 won't fit above the MB or I couldn't reach the holes for the cables.


I'm pretty sure I have a picture with the h100i on my fractal rig, like this one:

plug the fan on CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT fan first, they screw the rad on the top of the case, easy.


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> I'm pretty sure I have a picture with the h100i on my fractal rig, like this one:
> 
> plug the fan on CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT fan first, they screw the rad on the top of the case, easy.


Nice! Thank you!
Then I think I can order my new PC


----------



## CHLODZENIEnet

@ UP
What is the "RIVE", Rampage 4 Extreme?


----------



## aljbaba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHLODZENIEnet*
> 
> @ UP
> What is the "RIVE", Rampage 4 Extreme?


Yes







(edit: and the other ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CHLODZENIEnet*
> 
> @ UP
> What is the "RIVE", Rampage 4 Extreme?


yes, R for rampage, IV=4, E for Extreme
and the R4BE is the rampage 4 black edition, not rampage 4 belgium.


----------



## aljbaba

Sooo this would be my setup plus a Raidcontroller and an additional fan: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/30ZOB

What you say? My plan was to build a cheaper Mac Pro but now the PC is realy pricy too haha damn


----------



## Bumtsiki

Will recieve my case tomorrow, Arc Mini R2. Wondering about PSU, is there enough space behind motherboard to get psu with standard cables + bitfenix extensions or should i buy modular + etensions to be sure that all that mess could fit there.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Will recieve my case tomorrow, Arc Mini R2. Wondering about PSU, is there enough space behind motherboard to get psu with standard cables + bitfenix extensions or should i buy modular + etensions to be sure that all that mess could fit there.


Extension cable is not needed as PSU cables will fit in the case.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Extension cable is not needed as PSU cables will fit in the case.


To get nice coloured options i do need extension cables, and all the extra lengh should go behind mb tray.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> To get nice coloured options i do need extension cables, and all the extra lengh should go behind mb tray.


OK what color you look at and what kind of system you powering?


----------



## beans444

Well It took about 5 hours to move my system into the define R4 and replace the TX850w fan with a Fractal. The only thing I can hear now and then is the hard drive - WD Black C so.. Success!









I have to monitor temps and maybe find some good velcro for my lights and hard drive but for now it's Looking pretty sweet! I'll post some pics when I finally get the lights in and some good natural light.

idle temps have gone up only 2C from the Antec 1200! I'll see what happens with game play and post it next time.

Thanks for the thread everyone! GREAT case!

Edit: I just played a game of BF4.. Usually CPU/GPU runs around 65C so I went up 3C


----------



## captainkelly

I too just switched over to the R4.Took me exactly 5 hours with smoke breaks and such.

I'm coming from a 2 year old 600T SE that honestly was not very good from the start in the cooling department but plenty loud with the fans maxed.I was basically wanting to go back to black as I was tired of looking at white and extremely tired of the ticking fans in the 600T.

I got the Black version w/window from Microcenter for $90. I put 2 COUGAR Vortex 140mm's in the front on the fan controller and moved the stock front to the top rear also on the controller. I also added an old Scythe Slip Stream 120mm to the bottom. At full blast this thing is louder than the 600T but my temps dropped about 10 degrees







so I'm fine with that as I actually like a little noise coming from my PC.

Only issue I have is the Power button/LED doesn't work so I have to use the reset button to power it up. I contacted Fractal a few hours ago so hopefully they will be able to do something for me.

Thanks for the thread,guys







I have looked over the R4 for a couple of years now as I initially thought it was ugly and hated front doors on cases but after seeing some of the builds on here it grew on me. Keep up the good work!


----------



## Joshhat

Sadly this camera took a horrbile photo, but I got my Fractal Design Arc Midi Tower today! Here's the build, what do you guys think?



EDIT: Looks like the case is broken. 1 of the 2 USB3 ports doesn't work and I don't have any audio from the front panel connections.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshhat*
> 
> Sadly this camera took a horrbile photo, but I got my Fractal Design Arc Midi Tower today! Here's the build, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Looks like the case is broken. 1 of the 2 USB3 ports doesn't work and I don't have any audio from the front panel connections.


Why is bottom fan exhaust?
Check to make sure the plug connected to the mobo has no bent pins and securely fitted. Also see if the audio setup is correct configured in the bios and windows to see the front audio.


----------



## Joshhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Why is bottom fan exhaust?
> Check to make sure the plug connected to the mobo has no bent pins and securely fitted. Also see if the audio setup is correct configured in the bios and windows to see the front audio.


Whoops! That fan is the wrong way, I was wondering why it wasn't chucking any air. I'll have to fix that.

It's defiantly plugged in correctly, was working on my last PC but I'll check the BIOs real quick. It's all so really difficult to push the headphone jacks into the front panel audio, but not sure if that is normal?

EDIT: Just went over the connections and sound from Windows & BIOs with no luck. I really don't want to strip everything out and send it back..


----------



## andyv

If they are broken just contact fractal. They should send new ones out and just swap them over when the come.


----------



## mxfreek09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> If they are broken just contact fractal. They should send new ones out and just swap them over when the come.


^ This, Fractal Designs customer support has been very good to me. I had a fan go bad on me and and few short emails and 4 days later and I had a brand new one on my door step.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *captainkelly*
> 
> I too just switched over to the R4.Took me exactly 5 hours with smoke breaks and such.
> 
> I'm coming from a 2 year old 600T SE that honestly was not very good from the start in the cooling department but plenty loud with the fans maxed.I was basically wanting to go back to black as I was tired of looking at white and extremely tired of the ticking fans in the 600T.
> 
> I got the Black version w/window from Microcenter for $90. I put 2 COUGAR Vortex 140mm's in the front on the fan controller and moved the stock front to the top rear also on the controller. I also added an old Scythe Slip Stream 120mm to the bottom. At full blast this thing is louder than the 600T but my temps dropped about 10 degrees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so I'm fine with that as I actually like a little noise coming from my PC.
> 
> Only issue I have is the Power button/LED doesn't work so I have to use the reset button to power it up. I contacted Fractal a few hours ago so hopefully they will be able to do something for me.
> 
> Thanks for the thread,guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have looked over the R4 for a couple of years now as I initially thought it was ugly and hated front doors on cases but after seeing some of the builds on here it grew on me. Keep up the good work!


Nice build! I won't be adding any fans to the top. I bought two Noctua 300 - 1200rpm I believe it was for the front of my case. Ssso silent! I have them running on off the motherboard but I could probably ramp them up a bit. Although the cooling is perfect as it is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshhat*
> 
> Sadly this camera took a horrbile photo, but I got my Fractal Design Arc Midi Tower today! Here's the build, what do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Looks like the case is broken. 1 of the 2 USB3 ports doesn't work and I don't have any audio from the front panel connections.


Lol yeah flip that bottom fan over!







my x58 mobo does not have a usb 3.0 plug in for the front usb 3.0 header, I know how you feel. Although this board was one of the few paving the way of sata3 and usb3.0 which I have two of in the back they didn't add the front option. My next board will fix this.


----------



## falcon26

Agree. My R4 was missing have the rubber grommets when I got it from Newegg. I called their tech support and 2 days later I had a whole new set of them.....


----------



## incog

I've never heard of anyone not say good things about Fractal's support.


----------



## Domiro

140mm fans with 120mm mounting won't fit in a centered position when you try to place them in the two upper positions. Any 'elegant' solutions barring thick fan adapters?

Edit;

On the R4 that is.


----------



## beans444

I read some brackets could be used from noctua fans in this thread? It was something similar to you're problem but I don't quite remember. I would drill. I'm thinking of even cutting 3 sections out of the top and installing my own modders mesh for a Arc midi r2 look, IF I plan on water cooling.


----------



## Xylene

Ditched the 600t, got a Arc Midi R2.

Cables need some more work but I was tired of screwing with it, and that hard drive bracket thing under the optical bay has go to go. I am a little disappointed I couldn't mount the H100i going the other way with the tubes behind the optical drive, just wouldn't fit or I was being impatient, but it also barely fit the other direction.


----------



## hero1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> Ditched the 600t, got a Arc Midi R2.
> 
> Cables need some more work but I was tired of screwing with it, and that hard drive bracket thing under the optical bay has go to go. I am a little disappointed I couldn't mount the H100i going the other way with the tubes behind the optical drive, just wouldn't fit or I was being impatient, but it also barely fit the other direction.


Nice work on the build. The H100 will fit the other way around, you just need to be patient and the hard drive cage holder is easy to take off, like 1 minute or less.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> Ditched the 600t, got a Arc Midi R2.
> 
> Cables need some more work but I was tired of screwing with it, and that hard drive bracket thing under the optical bay has go to go. I am a little disappointed I couldn't mount the H100i going the other way with the tubes behind the optical drive, just wouldn't fit or I was being impatient, but it also barely fit the other direction.


Looks good.

It mounts either way in my R4 and they are basically the same except the roof. Maybe the Midi R2 has the mounting holes further forward or maybe you were being impatient like you said


----------



## Xylene

I didn't have a screw driver that would reach it with a narrow enough shaft. The screws are in a really stupid place.


----------



## Joshhat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> I didn't have a screw driver that would reach it with a narrow enough shaft. The screws are in a really stupid place.


Neither did I, they are in such a stupid place.


----------



## Xylene

No idea how you jabronies managed to fit it the other way around. I just wasted 45 minutes screwing with it. I could sort of get it to fit if I made my own screw holes but thats more work than I feel like doing.


----------



## Azefore

Here's my R2 as of right now, probably my favorite case I've had yet especially for $60




To-do:
-Monthly dusting
-Sleeve PSU and cold cathode wires (hide them too)
-Paint body panels a matching white of expansion slot covers
-Change out fittings on the 240mm front rad to lower slots (have them in my drawer just need a day off >.< )
-Wrap the main portion of PSU in matte black


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Well It took about 5 hours to move my system into the define R4 and replace the TX850w fan with a Fractal. The only thing I can hear now and then is the hard drive - WD Black C so.. Success!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to monitor temps and maybe find some good velcro for my lights and hard drive but for now it's Looking pretty sweet! I'll post some pics when I finally get the lights in and some good natural light.
> 
> idle temps have gone up only 2C from the Antec 1200! I'll see what happens with game play and post it next time.
> 
> Thanks for the thread everyone! GREAT case!
> 
> Edit: I just played a game of BF4.. Usually CPU/GPU runs around 65C so I went up 3C


HDD is my nosiest element too. I spin them down after 4 minutes now (SSD for OS) and is quiet as a muse with the Noctua CPU and case fans. I still use a FD 140mm on low in the bottom front to cool the HDD

If you aren't using the HDD drive bays, you may want to try something in your 5.25" bays if they are not in use. I have 3 HDD in my lower drive bay, removed the upper, and have my two SSD in a LIAN-LI 5.25" adapter:

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094104.html


----------



## Seid Dark

I replaced 3 stock Fractal fans on my Arc Midi R1 with Corsair AF140 Quiet Editions. They're bit of disappointing. ZERO temp difference on any component but AF140's are noisier. At 12v they are far from quiet. Of course you can downvolt them but I have hot GPU that really needs the airflow. Corsair overpriced their fans. I think I'm gonna ditch this case and go full custom loop with Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Fractal forgot about water cooling when they designed this case. R2 is better in that respect.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> I replaced 3 stock Fractal fans on my Arc Midi R1 with Corsair AF140 Quiet Editions. They're bit of disappointing. ZERO temp difference on any component but AF140's are noisier. At 12v they are far from quiet. Of course you can downvolt them but I have hot GPU that really needs the airflow. Corsair overpriced their fans. I think I'm gonna ditch this case and go full custom loop with Phanteks Enthoo Primo. Fractal forgot about water cooling when they designed this case. R2 is better in that respect.


Corsair fans are not what people think are good. Midi R1 was a good case. You can go full watercooling with the Midi R2 with a 240 on top and 240/280 in front.


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Corsair fans are not what people think are good. Midi R1 was a good case. You can go full watercooling with the Midi R2 with a 240 on top and 240/280 in front.


Sadly I was deceived by rave reviews on various websites. I guess most people only care about how fan looks, noise and performance are irrelevant to them.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> HDD is my nosiest element too. I spin them down after 4 minutes now (SSD for OS) and is quiet as a muse with the Noctua CPU and case fans. I still use a FD 140mm on low in the bottom front to cool the HDD
> 
> If you aren't using the HDD drive bays, you may want to try something in your 5.25" bays if they are not in use. I have 3 HDD in my lower drive bay, removed the upper, and have my two SSD in a LIAN-LI 5.25" adapter:
> 
> http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094104.html


I have my os on the SSD too, downloads and everything else are on my HD. I've been moving programs too it as well just to lower the size on my SSD. I'm going to grab a samsung pro soon!. The OCZ Agility 4 is ok but from looking at benchmarks its pretty low on the scale lol. Plus I can use it for games after. I gotta grab some batteries for my camera haha. Won't be buying my DSLR for school until sometime through the summer when I can afford it.

I also took out the hard drive racks like mentioned back a few pages just mounting the HD to the bottom fan intake slots is ok for now.









Also just installed my lights and it looks pretty good. Hot knife melted a switch into the front DVD drive doors so I can turn them on and off.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Recieved my arc mini r2 today, cant wait to go home and start building but i have one worry. Front panel what covers front fans seems little bit too loose, when i click it on and touch with my had its moves a little and makes "loose" sound. Is it normal or should the front panel be tight when placed on?


----------



## incog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> Here's my R2 as of right now, probably my favorite case I've had yet especially for $60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To-do:
> -Monthly dusting
> -Sleeve PSU and cold cathode wires (hide them too)
> -Paint body panels a matching white of expansion slot covers
> -Change out fittings on the 240mm front rad to lower slots (have them in my drawer just need a day off >.< )
> -Wrap the main portion of PSU in matte black


that looks really good but Ijust got süper confused for a second there. you don't have a reservoir?


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> that looks really good but Ijust got süper confused for a second there. you don't have a reservoir?


Looks like a H220, which has it built into the radiator.


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> It mounts either way in my R4 and they are basically the same except the roof. Maybe the Midi R2 has the mounting holes further forward or maybe you were being impatient like you said


The R4 roof is different.


----------



## kyosak

Do you guys think it's worth replacing the fans that come with the R4 with something like a Noctua 140mm?


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> that looks really good but Ijust got süper confused for a second there. you don't have a reservoir?


Thanks and yah as Xylene said its an H220, the top radiator is a little bit longer to accommodate more water and a fill cap

I wish FD had implemented some of the Mini R2 decisions into the Midi R2 however


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Do you guys think it's worth replacing the fans that come with the R4 with something like a Noctua 140mm?


Any reason why you want to do this? If you don't need the possibly improved airflow, I don't see the need to swap them IMHO.


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Do you guys think it's worth replacing the fans that come with the R4 with something like a Noctua 140mm?


Giant waste of money. I am more than content with the fans that came with my R4. My GPU temps are better than the set up I had with my 600t, even at full 12v with the built in fan controller the stock fans are quiet enough.


----------



## pkrexer

I found the factory case fans to be pretty good. Decent air flow and they are very quiet. I would save your money.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Do you guys think it's worth replacing the fans that come with the R4 with something like a Noctua 140mm?


The case comes with two fans. I bought two Noctua 140mm and put them in the front where you can't see them LOL. Nice and silent! Then put the one fractal into my PSU, Had to get rid of that coil whine.

Also could have put it above the cpu in the top or bottom as an intake. So buying Noctua are WORTH it as long as you don't go replacing the two fractal fans.

On another note, one of the fractal fans has some coil whine (looks warped like a loose tire) that might increase over time.. I might need to get it replaced, I live in Canada so hopefully its easy.

Few pics here of my new R4 setup, including the lights switch lol. hidden!


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Do you guys think it's worth replacing the fans that come with the R4 with something like a Noctua 140mm?


Not unless you have a pretty valid reason, for airflow you'll be fine as is while pocketing ~$17 a fan.

Plus they're butt ugly, I use 4 on my radiators but tried my best to keep them unseen.

Speaking of cost, there's better looking/performing for less, noise wise, that's debatable for everyone's particular setup/ tower location/accessories


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Do you guys think it's worth replacing the fans that come with the R4 with something like a Noctua 140mm?


Have a look at Gelid Silent 14.


----------



## kyosak

Thanks for the replies, so I guess the fans that come preinstalled on the R4 are pretty good

What about the fan "clip on" mechanism on the front of the case, is that good?
I ask because I see Noctua fans use rubber parts where fan connects to the case to lessen the noise, but if the fans just clip on that will defeat the purpose of rubber parts?
Is there a way to screw on front fans directly to the case and not use that plastic housing?

I guess this does not matter if the "clip on" mechanism does not cause any issues


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, so I guess the fans that come preinstalled on the R4 are pretty good
> 
> What about the fan "clip on" mechanism on the front of the case, is that good?
> I ask because I see Noctua fans use rubber parts where fan connects to the case to lessen the noise, but if the fans just clip on that will defeat the purpose of rubber parts?
> Is there a way to screw on front fans directly to the case and not use that plastic housing?
> 
> I guess this does not matter if the "clip on" mechanism does not cause any issues


I haven't used the R4 myself but it looks like you can with the front clip-in fan holder.

There's screw holes present under where you put the fans in so you could use the normal fat fan tapering screws by slipping them in just before pushing the fan into the clips and then screwing them through the holes on the other side of the fan.

I believe you can do something as well from the front that'd be easier too

Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rob-o*
> 
> R2 XL Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 559 x 560mm
> 
> R4 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x 523mm
> 
> R3 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 207 x 442 x 521mm
> 
> The R4 is the same width as the XL but the XL is a bit longer and a good amount taller.
> 
> The R4 was a decent change in size from the R3. The R2 and R1 where close in size to the R3.


I am using a 280mm Rad with Push Pulls all mounted in the Fan Clip assembly


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Thanks for the replies, so I guess the fans that come preinstalled on the R4 are pretty good
> 
> What about the fan "clip on" mechanism on the front of the case, is that good?
> I ask because I see Noctua fans use rubber parts where fan connects to the case to lessen the noise, but if the fans just clip on that will defeat the purpose of rubber parts?
> Is there a way to screw on front fans directly to the case and not use that plastic housing?
> 
> I guess this does not matter if the "clip on" mechanism does not cause any issues


It's really solid. You can put two screws in as well per fan removing the fan filter first. Nocuta in the front no rattle or anything. The screws are optional with 140mm (probably meant for a rad) but Noctua fit verrry snug in the bracket. I have them running off the motherboard, I want to try off the fractal fan controller but it's cool enough for me at 500rpm. I think two in the front at 500rpm each lets the rear exhaust keep up with air flow at 7V connected to the case fan controller and keeps the rig silent!

I bought two Nocuta 140mm fans I believe that go from 300 - 1200rpm. Very niceeee!


----------



## destrano1

Hey everyone, so I have a white Design Define R4, and I was wondering if someone could make a white cover plate for my PSU?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151108&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Electronics-_-SeaSonic+USA-_-N82E16817151108&scpid=7&scid=scsho5455707

Or could explain how to make one?

Also if someone sleeves cables here? I don't have the time to do these things with working 60+ hours a week.


----------



## K4IKEN

Finally got my R4 up and running! feelsgoodman.jpg


----------



## Tisca

*Arc Midi R2* owners!
What's the height of the case without the feet? It says 460mm and I'm assuming that's total height. Can you even remove the feet, screws?
I want to stick one in my rack sideways but it would have to be ~<438 if I put it on a rack shelf, <446 between rails. Rack cases have not evolved in decades and remain overpriced.

EDIT: a core 3000 would work for sure, 430 height. My R3 is 455 with feet and 440 without, wonder if the Arc has the same feet (150mm).


----------



## BenJaminJr

Love this case, got it for sale at newegg a few weeks ago. Just ordered 2 NF-a14 flx fans because i'm eventually going to water cool it. Love this case though, it is my dream case.


----------



## vagrant13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisca*
> 
> *Arc Midi R2* owners!
> What's the height of the case without the feet? It says 460mm and I'm assuming that's total height. Can you even remove the feet, screws?
> I want to stick one in my rack sideways but it would have to be ~<438 if I put it on a rack shelf, <446 between rails. Rack cases have not evolved in decades and remain overpriced.
> 
> EDIT: a core 3000 would work for sure, 430 height. My R3 is 455 with feet and 440 without, wonder if the Arc has the same feet (150mm).


My Arc Midi R2 just the case *without* the feet measures 460mm. The total height is roughly 475mm *with* the feet. The feet can be unscrewed.


----------



## coelacanth

I just popped the front off of mine doing an exploratory run through. There's a hole in the right front of the chassis where you can run the front fan cables behind the plastic front but in front of the metal chassis, and then out that hole in the chassis. Super cool.


----------



## Tisca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vagrant13*
> 
> My Arc Midi R2 just the case *without* the feet measures 460mm. The total height is roughly 475mm *with* the feet. The feet can be unscrewed.


Ok, thx!


----------



## kyosak

Has anyone tried running more than 3 fans off the R4 case built-in fan controller?
I'm thinking about adding a 4th fan and using a Y splitter to run it off that controller, hoping it won't cause any issue


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Has anyone tried running more than 3 fans off the R4 case built-in fan controller?
> I'm thinking about adding a 4th fan and using a Y splitter to run it off that controller, hoping it won't cause any issue


I did, I had to bump the Noctua fans up to 12v to get them moving which seemed the same as my motherboard output, in speed anyway. I think someone mentioned being able to use 4 but in my case it seems like a lot.


----------



## kyosak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> I did, I had to bump the Noctua fans up to 12v to get them moving which seemed the same as my motherboard output, in speed anyway. I think someone mentioned being able to use 4 but in my case it seems like a lot.


Hm so the fans will not spin if I turn on the PC with the controller set at anything under 12v? That doesn't sound good
May I ask exactly which model fans you are using and what type of setup they are in? (Y splitter, etc)


----------



## kazzy

Hello. I am planning a new build with the Arc Midi R2 and have a quick question regarding the hard drive cages. I have 5 HDDs I would like to install in the top drive cage and completely remove the bottom drive cage. My plan was to move the front intake fan to the bottom to improve airflow. But when I removed the bottom cage, the top cage ends up hanging via one screw at its top (by the 5.25" bays) and starts bending out since there is nothing to support it at the bottom. Is there a way to secure the top cage? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Has anyone tried running more than 3 fans off the R4 case built-in fan controller?
> I'm thinking about adding a 4th fan and using a Y splitter to run it off that controller, hoping it won't cause any issue


If you look at the amps of the fans and then look at the amperage that the built-in fan controller supplies you'll have your answer.

After some light googling it seems that the stock fans are .33A and the controller can provide 1A. So you're capped at 3 fans most likely.


----------



## vagrant13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzy*
> 
> Hello. I am planning a new build with the Arc Midi R2 and have a quick question regarding the hard drive cages. I have 5 HDDs I would like to install in the top drive cage and completely remove the bottom drive cage. My plan was to move the front intake fan to the bottom to improve airflow. But when I removed the bottom cage, the top cage ends up hanging via one screw at its top (by the 5.25" bays) and starts bending out since there is nothing to support it at the bottom. Is there a way to secure the top cage? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


I removed both cages right away since I had no use for them but I took a look and tried to figure it out. I doesn't seem like there is a way as I guess Fractal Design would rather you remove the larger cage. The anchor attached to the 3 drive cage is removable but there is no way to attach it to the 5 drive cage.







Hopefully there will be a revision in the future for that. After a short look, I don't see a way to secure it other than with zip ties.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I used to run 3 x AF140's and 2 x SP120's off of the built in fan controller on my R4 but they wouldn't spin until 12V then I was able to lower them to 7V and they worked ok.

Only changed to a dedicated fan controller because I nipped the Molex cable whilst removing a cable tie.


----------



## kazzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vagrant13*
> 
> I removed both cages right away since I had no use for them but I took a look and tried to figure it out. I doesn't seem like there is a way as I guess Fractal Design would rather you remove the larger cage. The anchor attached to the 3 drive cage is removable but there is no way to attach it to the 5 drive cage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully there will be a revision in the future for that. After a short look, I don't see a way to secure it other than with zip ties.


Thanks for the reply. I guess I will either use both drive cages and have worse airflow OR use just the bottom cage for 3 hdd's, put 2 hdd's in the 5.25 bays with adapters and not install my optical drive, and put my ssd in the back in order to have better airflow.


----------



## kyosak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> If you look at the amps of the fans and then look at the amperage that the built-in fan controller supplies you'll have your answer.
> 
> After some light googling it seems that the stock fans are .33A and the controller can provide 1A. So you're capped at 3 fans most likely.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I used to run 3 x AF140's and 2 x SP120's off of the built in fan controller on my R4 but they wouldn't spin until 12V then I was able to lower them to 7V and they worked ok.
> 
> Only changed to a dedicated fan controller because I nipped the Molex cable whilst removing a cable tie.


Yeah, and more I look into it apparently certain fans have unusually high amperage requirement for "starting up"
Because of this I'm leaning towards buying PWM fans and going the PWM splitter route


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyosak*
> 
> Yeah, and more I look into it apparently certain fans have unusually high amperage requirement for "starting up"
> Because of this I'm leaning towards buying PWM fans and going the PWM splitter route


I just did this. Got a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter. Putting 2 120mm Cougar PWM fans on the CPU cooler and 5 140mm Cougar PWM fans around the case (2 front intake, 1 door intake, 1 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust). Going to set it all up on Saturday. I can't wait. I'm still trying to figure out where the PWM splitter will sit for best fan cable management etc.


----------



## kyosak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I just did this. Got a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter. Putting 2 120mm Cougar PWM fans on the CPU cooler and 5 140mm Cougar PWM fans around the case (2 front intake, 1 door intake, 1 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust). Going to set it all up on Saturday. I can't wait. I'm still trying to figure out where the PWM splitter will sit for best fan cable management etc.


Let me know where you end out mounting the splitter because I might end up buying the same one








Looks like it's possible to screw it on somewhere


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I just did this. Got a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter. Putting 2 120mm Cougar PWM fans on the CPU cooler and 5 140mm Cougar PWM fans around the case (2 front intake, 1 door intake, 1 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust). Going to set it all up on Saturday. I can't wait. I'm still trying to figure out where the PWM splitter will sit for best fan cable management etc.


I would ditch the top fan, no need to pull more air out with enough positive air flow. Ditch the door intake, usually muddles air flow and creates eddies around the video card potentially. Put one of those two fans down on the bottom intake. The two front and one bottom will give great positive pressure and the one rear exhaust will provide enough pull from the case along with the natural evacuation.


----------



## 17jotinha

Me like


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> I would ditch the top fan, no need to pull more air out with enough positive air flow. Ditch the door intake, usually muddles air flow and creates eddies around the video card potentially. Put one of those two fans down on the bottom intake. The two front and one bottom will give great positive pressure and the one rear exhaust will provide enough pull from the case along with the natural evacuation.


Thanks for the advice. I've been trying to plan out what I want to do. My overarching goal is to have positive pressure. I will probably keep the door fan as an intake (or possibly exhaust, we'll see) because I have 2 GTX 780 Classifieds in SLI and they get hot! I was thinking about having another intake in the bottom but I know it's just going to be sucking dust nonstop. I'm also not sure if I can fit a bottom intake with my PSU. We'll see how it eventually turns out. Appreciate it, bud.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I've been trying to plan out what I want to do. My overarching goal is to have positive pressure. I will probably keep the door fan as an intake (or possibly exhaust, we'll see) because I have 2 GTX 780 Classifieds in SLI and they get hot! I was thinking about having another intake in the bottom but I know it's just going to be sucking dust nonstop. I'm also not sure if I can fit a bottom intake with my PSU. We'll see how it eventually turns out. Appreciate it, bud.


is the case you using in your sig?
The front fan is useless for cooling the case, due to the HDD cage blocking airflow.
200mm fans would be the best to use in the side and front. Not 120mm, as it limits the area of where the air will be.

Top exhaust is fine to use.
If that is not the case you use in your sig and got the Fractal, why use 120mm fans when 140mm would be the better choice?


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> is the case you using in your sig?
> The front fan is useless for cooling the case, due to the HDD cage blocking airflow.
> 200mm fans would be the best to use in the side and front. Not 120mm, as it limits the area of where the air will be.
> 
> Top exhaust is fine to use.
> If that is not the case you use in your sig and got the Fractal, why use 120mm fans when 140mm would be the better choice?


I just bought the Fractal Arc Midi R2 with the door fan. I'm transitioning away from the Cooler Master Storm Sniper Black. For the Fractal I have bought 5 140mm Cougar PWM fans (I removed all of the Fractal non-PWM fans), and I'm trying to decide where to put the Cougar fans (they will all be connected to a Swiftech PWM splitter). I got the Fractal version with the door fan because SLI gets hot!

I think I will probably run one of these 3 setups:

1) 2 front intakes, 1 side intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top exhaust (5 140mm PWM fans total)
Or
2) 2 front intakes, 1 bottom intake, 1 side exhaust, 1 rear exhaust (5 140mm PWM fans total)
Or
3) 2 front intakes, 1 side intake, 1 bottom intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top exhaust (6 140mm PWM fans total)

I don't have enough time to play around with different configurations, measure temps etc., so whatever I decide before I slap everything together is what it's going to be. Because of extreme dust sucking I'm thinking I probably will not run a bottom intake and I'll just go with Option 1.

I read that the door fan option of the Arc Midi used to not come with a dust filter, but mine did. I'm going to take it off and replace it with a DEMCiflex magnetic filter though.

I'm planning to only use the lower 3 HD cage and leave the top 5 HD cage out (and put 2 SSDs behind the motherboard tray).


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I just bought the Fractal Arc Midi R2 with the door fan. I'm transitioning away from the Cooler Master Storm Sniper Black. For the Fractal I have bought 5 140mm Cougar PWM fans (I removed all of the Fractal non-PWM fans), and I'm trying to decide where to put the Cougar fans (they will all be connected to a Swiftech PWM splitter). I got the Fractal version with the door fan because SLI gets hot!
> 
> I think I will probably run one of these 3 setups:
> 
> 1) 2 front intakes, 1 side intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top exhaust (5 140mm PWM fans total)
> Or
> 2) 2 front intakes, 1 bottom intake, 1 side exhaust, 1 rear exhaust (5 140mm PWM fans total)
> Or
> 3) 2 front intakes, 1 side intake, 1 bottom intake, 1 rear exhaust, 1 top exhaust (6 140mm PWM fans total)
> 
> I don't have enough time to play around with different configurations, measure temps etc., so whatever I decide before I slap everything together is what it's going to be. Because of extreme dust sucking I'm thinking I probably will not run a bottom intake and I'll just go with Option 1.
> 
> I read that the door fan option of the Arc Midi used to not come with a dust filter, but mine did. I'm going to take it off and replace it with a DEMCiflex magnetic filter though.
> 
> I'm planning to only use the lower 3 HD cage and leave the top 5 HD cage out (and put 2 SSDs behind the motherboard tray).


The door version is not even needed with SLI. The window version would still give you good cooling.
Cooling with a dual140mm in front and bottom is more than enough. The lower drive cage is not tall enough to cover all of the lower 140mm fan.

I would do 2x front, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear, 2x top exhaust.
Could you return the case and get the window side panel?
The filter that comes in the front help real good with keeping dust out of the case.
As for the splitter, the best place to mount it is on the side of the optical drive bay. You have room for the plugs to not touch the side panel.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The door version is not even needed with SLI. The window version would still give you good cooling.
> Cooling with a dual140mm in front and bottom is more than enough. The lower drive cage is not tall enough to cover all of the lower 140mm fan.
> 
> I would do 2x front, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear, 2x top exhaust.
> Could you return the case and get the window side panel?
> The filter that comes in the front help real good with keeping dust out of the case.
> As for the splitter, the best place to mount it is on the side of the optical drive bay. You have room for the plugs to not touch the side panel.


I don't need the window so even if I don't run the door fan I'll probably just stick with the solid side panel and put a dust filter over the holes.

The thing about 3x intake and 3x exhaust is that I want positive pressure, so I want more intake than exhaust. 2x front, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear exhaust, 1x top exhaust would work though.

Thanks for the tip on the PWM splitter location. I know that's something I'm going to spend a good amount of time figuring out.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I don't need the window so even if I don't run the door fan I'll probably just stick with the solid side panel and put a dust filter over the holes.
> 
> The thing about 3x intake and 3x exhaust is that I want positive pressure, so I want more intake than exhaust. 2x front, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear exhaust, 1x top exhaust would work though.
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the PWM splitter location. I know that's something I'm going to spend a good amount of time figuring out.


I would go with 2x 140mm on top + 140mm in rear.
With having the extra cooling around the ram area pulling the air from the front 140mm will help pull from the GPU also.
I have 3 intake and 3 exhaust right now in my Arc Midi R2. Works very well to exhaust all the heat.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I don't need the window so even if I don't run the door fan I'll probably just stick with the solid side panel and put a dust filter over the holes.
> 
> The thing about 3x intake and 3x exhaust is that I want positive pressure, so I want more intake than exhaust. 2x front, 1x bottom intake, 1x rear exhaust, 1x top exhaust would work though.
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the PWM splitter location. I know that's something I'm going to spend a good amount of time figuring out.


The psu will suck air out as well don't forget. I just Flipped mine upside down recently and didn't really see a difference but I have two Noctua 140mm fans running at 750rpm in front, one fractal in the rear at 7v, no top fans on my Define R4. This raised my temps by 4 degrees over my Antec 1200 which has two 120mm rear a 200mm top <--3 exhaust plus the psu for 4. and 3 120mm fans for intake in the front.

Again this switch increased temps by 4 degrees if that. More fans are not worth it coming from a guy with a loud ass case.

PS. I have a windforce OC gigabyte gtx770 graphics card overclocked obviously and a i7930 at 4ghz all on air. I'll recommend 3 140mm fans max to anyone over more fans increasing noise..


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> The psu will suck air out as well don't forget. I just Flipped mine upside down recently and didn't really see a difference but I have two Noctua 140mm fans running at 750rpm in front, one fractal in the rear at 7v, no top fans on my Define R4. This raised my temps by 4 degrees over my Antec 1200 which has two 120mm rear a 200mm top <--3 exhaust plus the psu for 4. and 3 120mm fans for intake in the front.
> 
> Again this switch increased temps by 4 degrees if that. More fans are not worth it coming from a guy with a loud ass case.
> 
> PS. I have a windforce OC gigabyte gtx770 graphics card overclocked obviously and a i7930 at 4ghz all on air. I'll recommend 3 140mm fans max to anyone over more fans increasing noise..


Solid advice. I don't really want to go super overkill on fans / noise, which is why I'm going to run everything off PWM (custom profile I created in my UEFI BIOS). The GTX 780s are by far the loudest fans though, and there's not much I can do about that unless I put them under water. I'm hoping for a pretty quiet system for everything else other than gaming and benching though.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Solid advice. I don't really want to go super overkill on fans / noise, which is why I'm going to run everything off PWM (custom profile I created in my UEFI BIOS). The GTX 780s are by far the loudest fans though, and there's not much I can do about that unless I put them under water. I'm hoping for a pretty quiet system for everything else other than gaming and benching though.


I use the Swiftech splitter.
5x Noctua NF-A14 PWM
2x Noctua NF-P12 PWM

All of it is on the cpu_fan header. Using speed fan, all my fans run at 30% (400-500 rpm) At those speeds, temps are still good at idle and when gaming is not d


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I use the Swiftech splitter.
> 5x Noctua NF-A14 PWM
> 2x Noctua NF-P12 PWM
> 
> All of it is on the cpu_fan header. Using speed fan, all my fans run at 30% (400-500 rpm) At those speeds, temps are still good at idle and when gaming is not d


Haha awesome. That's basically exactly what I'm doing. Do you have a pic handy of where / how you mounted the Swiftech PWM splitter? Did you use the screws or the adhesive?

5x Cougar Vortex 140mm PWM (case fans)
2x Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM (on CPU cooler)

You've got Austrian fans in the Swedish case, I've gone with the German fans in the Swedish case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Haha awesome. That's basically exactly what I'm doing. Do you have a pic handy of where / how you mounted the Swiftech PWM splitter? Did you use the screws or the adhesive?
> 
> 5x Cougar Vortex 140mm PWM (case fans)
> 2x Cougar Vortex 120mm PWM (on CPU cooler)
> 
> You've got Austrian fans in the Swedish case, I've gone with the German fans in the Swedish case.


I use the screw and nut that came with the splitter. Use the holes for the OD.

Reason I got Noctua is that there is no PWM tick at any speed.
I had the cougar fans in this case. I returned them, due to the annoying tick they made at 30-40% fan speed.
Also it was worse when the fans were mounted horizontal.
I suggest you use the stock fans on top and bottom and use the built in fan controller.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I use the screw and nut that came with the splitter. Use the holes for the OD.
> 
> Reason I got Noctua is that there is no PWM tick at any speed.
> I had the cougar fans in this case. I returned them, due to the annoying tick they made at 30-40% fan speed.
> Also it was worse when the fans were mounted horizontal.
> I suggest you use the stock fans on top and bottom and use the built in fan controller.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yea I've heard of the Cougar tick, but I also read that it had been fixed. So I decided to chance it since I am in love with the Cougar fans on my CPU cooler. They are flawless (no motor noise at all that I can hear) from 800-1500RPM.

Thank you very much for the pic! +rep


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I use the screw and nut that came with the splitter. Use the holes for the OD.
> 
> Reason I got Noctua is that there is no PWM tick at any speed.
> I had the cougar fans in this case. I returned them, due to the annoying tick they made at 30-40% fan speed.
> Also it was worse when the fans were mounted horizontal.
> I suggest you use the stock fans on top and bottom and use the built in fan controller.


That is where I have my splitter and the Noctua are quiet.


----------



## Joshhat

Sorry for the low resolution image, I just cut it from a photo I already had on my PC. I'm wondering how you can make the USB 3.0 cable look neat on the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 as I am unable to get it to go within the cable management holes due to that the lead just won't bend. It's probably on a awkward position of my motherboard so I was thinking something like a 90 degree bend would help but I couldn't find anything like that on eBay. Anyway here's a photo of what it currently looks like.. I hope this question made sense.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joshhat*
> 
> Sorry for the low resolution image, I just cut it from a photo I already had on my PC. I'm wondering how you can make the USB 3.0 cable look neat on the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 as I am unable to get it to go within the cable management holes due to that the lead just won't bend. It's probably on a awkward position of my motherboard so I was thinking something like a 90 degree bend would help but I couldn't find anything like that on eBay. Anyway here's a photo of what it currently looks like.. I hope this question made sense.


I think that looks neat enough already. Maybe remove the sticker.

Motherboards with that USB 3.0 orientation are a pain to get through the grommets.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I think that looks neat enough already. Maybe remove the sticker.
> 
> Motherboards with that USB 3.0 orientation are a pain to get through the grommets.


Agreed. This slot needs to be a little bigger. I routed my sata drives through it but had to go from the bottom for one.


----------



## SclerosiS

Want to ask what was the size of the drill bit to remove the rivets of the hdd cage of Core 3000. Cant find it. Thank you,


----------



## andyv

I think I used a 3.0 or 3.5mm. I just used one slightly bigger than the hole in the centre of the rivet. This was for an Arc Midi R2, but I don't see why the size would be different.


----------



## Tan1415

Hi Guys,

I am a first time owner of a Fractal Design case. Just received the Define XL r2. I use corsair normally. But got a great deal.
Wow case is HUGE. Great materials on first sight. But now I notice somethings and one is a bummer.

The upperleft screwhole in the backplate doesnt align correctly. Cant screw the thumbscrew in.With or without the sideplate.Disspapointing.Didnt expect to make use of the FD customer service so soon.

Other things I noticed.
1) The headphone connector is plastic and not metal. How well isolated are they? Will they be susceptible to noise or interference. Looks cheap.
2)The thumbscrews is not so strong or well buiilt. seems bit softer metal than corsairs.
3)The fit seems a bit off. Corsair fit perfect for example. The alignment of screw holes and backplate. The fan button doesnt seem to move/click cleanly.
4)Door can only open onesided.
5) Case is HUGE. Will normal cables be long enough?

Bit concerned about point 1. And hope its a problem with my case only and can fix teh problem.Pretty pissed if I have to delay the build and return the case.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tan1415*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am a first time owner of a Fractal Design case. Just received the Define XL r2. I use corsair normally. But got a great deal.
> Wow case is HUGE. Great materials on first sight. But now I notice somethings and one is a bummer.
> 
> The upperleft screwhole in the backplate doesnt align correctly. Cant screw the thumbscrew in.With or without the sideplate.Disspapointing.Didnt expect to make use of the FD customer service so soon.
> 
> Other things I noticed.
> 1) The headphone connector is plastic and not metal. How well isolated are they? Will they be susceptible to noise or interference. Looks cheap.
> 2)The thumbscrews is not so strong or well buiilt. seems bit softer metal than corsairs.
> 3)The fit seems a bit off. Corsair fit perfect for example. The alignment of screw holes and backplate. The fan button doesnt seem to move/click cleanly.
> 4)Door can only open onesided.
> 5) Case is HUGE. Will normal cables be long enough?
> 
> Bit concerned about point 1. And hope its a problem with my case only and can fix teh problem.Pretty pissed if I have to delay the build and return the case.


1) The plastic ring wont affect anything. What will is the wires inside the case are prone to EFI, that is with any case. If you want clean sound, you shouldn't use front jack anyway.
2) Thumb screws are fine and like any other case, there is no issues with them.
3) Fit is good with Fractal cases. Fan controller works well ans slides easy to select voltage.
4) It is a standard door
5) That will vary on your power supply

Corsair is not the be all of cases, most of there case are designed to fit only there own products and no one else. They are not the be all of cases, some of them are just not so good, including there own fans.


----------



## Ensabrenoir

Bought a R 3 n.i.b. a couple of months ago ........never knew what to do with it. Finally got bored with my cosmos 2 so after some mad surgery and a new H80i A new day has dawned...still got lots of cable management to do though. Bought a node 304 too


----------



## Xylene

I had issues with thumb screws in my Core 3000 (my server), so he's not the only one. The one that came in the top PCI-E slot stripped completely the first time I tried to put a card in it. It was an absolutely nightmare trying to get the damn thing out.


----------



## Tan1415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 1) The plastic ring wont affect anything. What will is the wires inside the case are prone to EFI, that is with any case. If you want clean sound, you shouldn't use front jack anyway.
> 2) Thumb screws are fine and like any other case, there is no issues with them.
> 3) Fit is good with Fractal cases. Fan controller works well ans slides easy to select voltage.
> 4) It is a standard door
> 5) That will vary on your power supply
> 
> Corsair is not the be all of cases, most of there case are designed to fit only there own products and no one else. They are not the be all of cases, some of them are just not so good, including there own fans.


I know. But I only have experience with Corsair. Fractal Design was so highly rated everywhere...that I expected the same.

The reason why wiring in the front jack is important to me. I connect my headphones in it. And my headphone amp works through the frontjack.

Corsair and antec have quite good shielded wires to the frontjack. So I hope the same with Dractal.

I sent a message to FD customer service. I hope they react quickly with regards to the case and the misaligned screwring. Bad luck i guess.


----------



## Tan1415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> I had issues with thumb screws in my Core 3000 (my server), so he's not the only one. The one that came in the top PCI-E slot stripped completely the first time I tried to put a card in it. It was an absolutely nightmare trying to get the damn thing out.


Is the problem the screw or the holes in the case itself? It sucks with my case because these outside holes will be used a lot, when you open and close the case. Afraid it will only get worse with wear.


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tan1415*
> 
> Is the problem the screw or the holes in the case itself? It sucks with my case because these outside holes will be used a lot, when you open and close the case. Afraid it will only get worse with wear.


Something is telling me it was the screw itself, I had spares so I managed. I haven't taken it apart it a while and built it some time ago, so I can't say for sure. It wasn't a huge deal because the rest of the case was fine, except how I sat my knee on the fan opening on the door and bent the hell out of it. I even retired my 600t recently and bought a Midi R2.


----------



## Tan1415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> Something is telling me it was the screw itself, I had spares so I managed. I haven't taken it apart it a while and built it some time ago, so I can't say for sure.


Ok because with me i think its the case. Both the upper and lower screws were not aligned correct ly.
I tried screwing the thumbscrews without the sidepanels. Even trying out the different thumbscrews. The right side was without any problems. The left one was problematic. The upperscrew is now stuck.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

You have a headphone amp. Why not connect to the rear instead, that way you prevent any EFI coming from the front.
The cables are all the same with front panels on every case.
If the side panel is not properly placed the holes in the back wont be lined up and make the screw tight. That is what would have happened.
It did that on my case, till I slide to door correctly.


----------



## Tan1415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You have a headphone amp. Why not connect to the rear instead, that way you prevent any EFI coming from the front.
> The cables are all the same with front panels on every case.
> If the side panel is not properly placed the holes in the back wont be lined up and make the screw tight. That is what would have happened.
> It did that on my case, till I slide to door correctly.


The headamp is build in in my Motherboard.Asrock purity.And teh headamp is connected to the frontjack only.
Ps thats what i thoght at first.thats why i tried to srew in the thumbscrew without the sidepanel. just stratight to the case. it didnt work.


----------



## ebduncan

You can build a computer. Yet you cannot fix a screw hole?

making such a fuss over something so small is the definition of annoying.

I'm sorry your screw will not fit in your hole. Might want to get a drill and a tap and fix it.


----------



## Tan1415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> You can build a computer. Yet you cannot fix a screw hole?
> 
> making such a fuss over something so small is the definition of annoying.
> 
> I'm sorry your screw will not fit in your hole. Might want to get a drill and a tap and fix it.


I know it's sad. It's my first time building my own PC. Or I think it's my 2nd one.
Anyway absolutely no clue what you are talking about. I didnt use a drill or a tap when i made my last pc.Sounds like carpenting to me.. Only used a screwdriver last time.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tan1415*
> 
> I know it's sad. It's my first time building my own PC. Or I think it's my 2nd one.
> Anyway absolutely no clue what you are talking about. I didnt use a drill or a tap when i made my last pc.Sounds like carpenting to me.. Only used a screwdriver last time.


Don't worry. I have built plenty of computers, and modded computer cases etc., but I would have no idea how to tap and thread screw holes. Getting the tools together for that sounds expensive too.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Don't worry. I have built plenty of computers, and modded computer cases etc., but I would have no idea how to tap and thread screw holes. Getting the tools together for that sounds expensive too.


^This


----------



## Xylene

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> You can build a computer. Yet you cannot fix a screw hole?
> 
> making such a fuss over something so small is the definition of annoying.
> 
> I'm sorry your screw will not fit in your hole. Might want to get a drill and a tap and fix it.


I don't think asking a case manufacturer to ship a case where the screw holes aren't messed up is asking too much. You shouldn't have to repair it fresh out of the box.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tan1415*
> 
> I know it's sad. It's my first time building my own PC. Or I think it's my 2nd one.
> Anyway absolutely no clue what you are talking about. I didnt use a drill or a tap when i made my last pc.Sounds like carpenting to me.. Only used a screwdriver last time.


Carpentry.... and that deals with wood.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Don't worry. I have built plenty of computers, and modded computer cases etc., but I would have no idea how to tap and thread screw holes. Getting the tools together for that sounds expensive too.


like 16$ at Habor freight

or you could always buy a Self tapping screw that is lightly larger than the hole your having issues with. Either way its cheaper than paying for shipping on computer case.

I find it relatively sad that what used to be common knowledge is mostly absent from people these days.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Carpentry.... and that deals with wood.
> like 16$ at Habor freight
> 
> or you could always buy a Self tapping screw that is lightly larger than the hole your having issues with. Either way its cheaper than paying for shipping on computer case.
> 
> I find it relatively sad that what used to be common knowledge is mostly absent from people these days.


The death of civility is also sad.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xylene*
> 
> I don't think asking a case manufacturer to ship a case where the screw holes aren't messed up is asking too much. You shouldn't have to repair it fresh out of the box.


I got a FD R3 with one of the MB standoffs stripped. Wasn't much I could do about that. The quality of these cases are pretty good on the whole. considering their price.


----------



## Tan1415

I am not handy at all. I dont have a lot of tools.

Wouldn't it be better than to send it back and get my money back? Something is wrong with the case out of the box. It's my first fractal. Not sure if I should get replacement or just buy another case.

I wonder what would be better for a young company like Fractal? A fanboy or real feedback. IMHO they would be delighted with these feedback found on the forums. They want a great product.

Anyway still waiting on FD reaction. Has 48 hour window.


----------



## nonsequitur

Is it possible to remove the top panel on the Design R4?


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonsequitur*
> 
> Is it possible to remove the top panel on the Design R4?


With a sawzall


----------



## Killbuzzjrad

Sweet Jesus it's sexy!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Looks like they may being bringing out their own AIO coolers as well.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> Sweet Jesus it's sexy!


too big


----------



## smoke2

I'm planning to buy Arctic F14 fan for front intake on my R4.
But don't know if to buy PWM version.

I'm planning to operate it on 7V together with my original R2 and made a decision to buy not PWM version.

But in one review in link below I can see, there is PWM version with 4-pin and 3-pin also, so I can plug it onto board or into R4 case regulator?
One thing is unclear for me, can have 3-pin only one cable instead of three for proper spinning in case regulator?

http://www.radeon3d.org/forum/thread-2971.html


----------



## smithydan

Nzxt fz140 is a 3pin fan that will be good at 12v, if you want a pwm go for a Phanteks f140xp.

I have all three and they are all good but the arctic just has a higher pitch whilst the others have a hum.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> Sweet Jesus it's sexy!


It looks like a mini-fridge.


----------



## Ensabrenoir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killbuzzjrad*
> 
> Sweet Jesus it's sexy!


Excellent!!!!!! now heres to hoping someone makes a matx haswell e or what ever coming next







either way as soon as this thing is on Amazon new egg or who ever its shut up and take my money!!!!


----------



## RnRollie

i would be more happy if they finally released an ARC Midi/XL with a reversed 'upside-down motherboard" design.. so that the window sits at the right, not the left


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> i would be more happy if they finally released an ARC Midi/XL with a reversed 'upside-down motherboard" design.. so that the window sits at the right, not the left


Easy to do yourself. Pop the rivets, flip the back panel and motherboard tray, rivet it back in. The side panels will operate on either side of the case as well.


----------



## rcoolb2002

All of the screw holes for the side panel on my Fractal Define Mini are stripped out. They stripped pretty much the second time I used the side panels. My front audio headphone jack also stopped working, probably a wire issue, but I havent really tried to track it down. But the simplistic beauty of the Define case still makes it all worth it


----------



## Tan1415

Hi Guys,

Got FD customer support. WIth pressure the panels close. But the key is that there are paint residue in the holes. Needed to use a screwdriver to screw and unscrew it a few times.Without the sidepanel on. Now it closes.


----------



## GeneO

In my experience, there really isn't much need to screw the panels shut on the R4. They slide into place pretty tight.


----------



## Travellerr

Do we post pictures of our chassis on this thread


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Easy to do yourself. Pop the rivets, flip the back panel and motherboard tray, rivet it back in. The side panels will operate on either side of the case as well.


i know that, i just would like to have this "off factory" .... becuz i'm lazy


----------



## coelacanth

I transferred into my Arc Midi R2 last night and I have to say I'm not super impressed with the quality. The front dust panel is sort of bent and the plastic frame behind it bulges into the case and actually makes contact with my two front fans. It doesn't fit cleanly into the space made for it in the plastic front bezel and I have to force it in on the right side where I feel it should click in and out easily. In order to pop it back out I have to pop the left side out and then get enough of my fingers behind the grill to rip it out where it's sticking on the right side. I had to bend it so it doesn't contact my fans. One of the standoffs stripped going into the motherboard tray but luckily I had a bunch of other standoffs laying around and the threads in the motherboard tray didn't strip.

Coming from a Cooler Master Storm Sniper case this is a step down in terms of build quality. The metal used for the Storm Sniper is thicker and stronger.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I transferred into my Arc Midi R2 last night and I have to say I'm not super impressed with the quality. The front dust panel is sort of bent and the plastic frame behind it bulges into the case and actually makes contact with my two front fans. It doesn't fit cleanly into the space made for it in the plastic front bezel and I have to force it in on the right side where I feel it should click in and out easily. In order to pop it back out I have to pop the left side out and then get enough of my fingers behind the grill to rip it out where it's sticking on the right side. I had to bend it so it doesn't contact my fans. One of the standoffs stripped going into the motherboard tray but luckily I had a bunch of other standoffs laying around and the threads in the motherboard tray didn't strip.
> 
> Coming from a Cooler Master Storm Sniper case this is a step down in terms of build quality. The metal used for the Storm Sniper is thicker and stronger.


Faulty case. Bent front bezel can be replaced if you contact customer support. Stripping of the screw holes is usually the consequence of over-tightening which is the fault of the user not the case manufacturer.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Faulty case. Bent front bezel can be replaced if you contact customer support. Stripping of the screw holes is usually the consequence of over-tightening which is the fault of the user not the case manufacturer.


Agreed I think I got too aggro tightening that standoff.

I'll try to hit up customer service to see if they'll send me another front fan cover.


----------



## germslopz

Just bought a second hand Arc Midi (original one). Ive got to say that coming from a Centurion 5, this case rocks my ass off. Great build quality and all those fans included, awesome case. I really wanted a C70 Vengeance but i couldnt justify spending that much money on a case and i could never seem to find one used.


----------



## Domusas

hi, my core3000

i like the case, but fan controller isn't working, i contacted FD support and they send me bag of screws instead of fan controller







so i bought rezistors to silence fans.


----------



## kyosak

Just finished putting my PC parts into Fractal R4 !
Already loving this case but the front panel audio is not working, hopefully I can fix it tomorrow...


----------



## SclerosiS

andyv,

did it with a 3.5mm drill bit. Was a 5 minutes job for the 8 bits. Before that i taped around every bit to prevent scratching the paint if the drill bit slides. Thinking of going under water soon (only cpu first) but as far as i can remember from what i have read here corsair h100/i wont fit. Guess the same is for h220. Which ot the two is better for cooling FX-8350? What about if i put it on top and offset it to the left (top i have room for 2x120/140mm fans so one side is screwed in the hole for a 140mm fan and the other screw goes through the mesh. Prefer AIO, later maybe can try Custom Loop.


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> andyv,
> 
> did it with a 3.5mm drill bit. Was a 5 minutes job for the 8 bits. Before that i taped around every bit to prevent scratching the paint if the drill bit slides.


I see you did it the smarter way. I just got an old pillow case put it in-between the ground and the case. Worked well. It is super easy. Putting it back in is much easier too.
Quote:


> Thinking of going under water soon (only cpu first) but as far as i can remember from what i have read here corsair h100/i wont fit. Guess the same is for h220. Which ot the two is better for cooling FX-8350? What about if i put it on top and offset it to the left (top i have room for 2x120/140mm fans so one side is screwed in the hole for a 140mm fan and the other screw goes through the mesh. Prefer AIO, later maybe can try Custom Loop.


I have a 360 rad in my arc midi r2. It is offset as far to the window side of the case as it would allow me. I currently only have it set as 'pull' however I think I could probably get push/pull no issues. The top 25mm of the motherboard is almost in accessible. I just recently swapped motherboards and the CPU fan was at the top of my new motherboard and had a hard time to plug it in, although I got it done it was hard.

I am not sure as to why those AIO wouldn't fit (don't really look into them much) but I cant think of a reason as to why they wouldnt. I have a 360 rad uptop and a 280 in front.


----------



## smoke2

I'm owning Fractal R4 some weeks and bought also new ASUS DCII 280X TOP.
I've removed top HDD cage, added Enermax T.B.Silence UCTB14A fan into the upper front position and regulator on Enermax fan adjusted to maximum.
On regulator case it is set 7V value.
I have three installed fans (two original R2 and one Enermax).

I've played Company of Heroes 2 in hotter room about an hour and the max. temperature according to HWinfo was 81 degrees on GPU and 88 degrees on VRM.

Do you think it's OK temperature or is something seriously wrong?
What will be happened if I haven't got any of the fans?

Would be glad for any insights.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm owning Fractal R4 some weeks and bought also new ASUS DCII 280X TOP.
> I've removed top HDD cage, added Enermax T.B.Silence UCTB14A fan into the upper front position and regulator on Enermax fan adjusted to maximum.
> On regulator case it is set 7V value.
> I have three installed fans (two original R2 and one Enermax).
> 
> I've played Company of Heroes 2 in hotter room about an hour and the max. temperature according to HWinfo was 81 degrees on GPU and 88 degrees on VRM.
> 
> Do you think it's OK temperature or is something seriously wrong?
> What will be happened if I haven't got any of the fans?
> 
> Would be glad for any insights.


81 Is fine, i would put the fan on the bottom mount next to the PSU, I got a good 5-7 degree drop in temps on my gpu


----------



## Gunderman456

A bit disappointed I went with the Fractal Design Midi R2 case. I decided to replace the top 240mm Rad with a 360mm Rad to improve temps.

I like Fractal Design as a company mind you, they were very helpful when I broke the USB 3.0 case cable.

However, the Midi R2 is marketed as accepting a 360mm Rad, but in actuality it is far from functional, as the mounting screws don't align properly for a 360mm Rad, and you'd need to hack at or completely remove the disk drive cage by dealing with metal caps.

Notice, there was no way to actually use the fan screw mounts and I had to adapt.



As you can see, it is impossible to achieve a perfect push/pull configuration with a 360mm Rad.



I couldn't avoid the RAM as the length of the Rad hit the disk drive cage. The Blu-ray will also makes it impossible for a fan in pull in the drive cage.



Also the push/pull up front will result in the loss of the HDD cage.


----------



## gdubc

I am about to finally work on my midiR2 tomorrow. I have a 280 rad for the top but I wonder if another 120 could be squeezed up in that front spot also? Dang I think I have had this case a year or more and I finally got all my h20 supplies to get it put together. Now if I could keep my son out of the hospital I might actually get some work done on this stuff!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> A bit disappointed I went with the Fractal Design Midi R2 case. I decided to replace the top 240mm Rad with a 360mm Rad to improve temps.
> 
> I like Fractal Design as a company mind you, they were very helpful when I broke the USB 3.0 case cable.
> 
> However, the Midi R2 is marketed as accepting a 360mm Rad, but in actuality it is far from functional, as the mounting screws don't align properly for a 360mm Rad, and you'd need to hack at or completely remove the disk drive cage by dealing with metal caps.


The Midi R2 was never marketed for a 360 rad. The Mini R2 supported 360 rad.
You have Maximus Gene and didnt get the Mini R2 which is what you were suppose to get.
You got the wrong case if you wanted to fit a 360 rad on top.

You can still use the HDD cage, you just need to move it over towards the PSU.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The Midi R2 was never marketed for a 360 rad. The Mini R2 supported 360 rad.
> You have Maximus Gene and didnt get the Mini R2 which is what you were suppose to get.
> You got the wrong case if you wanted to fit a 360 rad on top.
> 
> You can still use the HDD cage, you just need to move it over towards the PSU.


Yes, you are right. It does not specifically say that the Midi R2 is capable of a 360mm rad up top, but they do specify 120mm x3 fan capability up top, so I assumed wrong when I translated that as being able to also take a 360mm rad up top.

Additionally, if I would have went with a Mini R2, Fractal Design also has a caveat "Top - 240mm or 360mm radiators (thick and slim); the use of 360mm radiators requires removal of the ODD cage" which would have been a non starter for me.

Also there is so much moving over you can do before none of the screw holes align. I got away with it with the rad in a push configuration, but that is as much as it will give. I will have my pump there as well, so that alone takes out the HDD cage, otherwise I probably would have needed to mod new screw holes to catch the cage.

@gdubc, look at my pics above, you can squeeze a 120mm rad in a push configuration in the ODD cage if you wanted to.


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> 81 Is fine, i would put the fan on the bottom mount next to the PSU, I got a good 5-7 degree drop in temps on my gpu


I was wondering to put one fan on the bottom.
Have you placed the fan as intake or an out-take?
Wouldn't it stealing a necessary air for the PSU fan which is next to it?
I have a carpet with little hair.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Yes, you are right. It does not specifically say that the Midi R2 is capable of a 360mm rad up top, but they do specify 120mm x3 fan capability up top, so I assumed wrong when I translated that as being able to also take a 360mm rad up top.
> 
> Additionally, if I would have went with a Mini R2, Fractal Design also has a caveat "Top - 240mm or 360mm radiators (thick and slim); the use of 360mm radiators requires removal of the ODD cage" which would have been a non starter for me.
> 
> Also there is so much moving over you can do before none of the screw holes align. I got away with it with the rad in a push configuration, but that is as much as it will give. I will have my pump there as well, so that alone takes out the HDD cage, otherwise I probably would have needed to mod new screw holes to catch the cage.


Were you able to plug in your 8pin with the rad in the way?

There should be room to add a pump and the HDD cages. There is already mounting hols for the HDD cage by the PSU.


Also you can put the HDD beside the fan in the front and put the pump ontop of the HDD cage. Might have to make new holes.
As for the Blu-ray do you actually need it? There is ways to make it external.


----------



## ebduncan

I took my blu-ray drive out of the case. I put it in a external enclosure that supports usb 3.0. If your interested the model is (NexStar.DX) I got it for like 30$

Honestly I like my Arc Midi, but if your going to do an extensive water cooling build its not the case for you. I've crammed mine with two radiators (XSPC RX240 and a Alphacool XT 45 280mm)

Want to run more than that? removal of the 5.25" drive cages is a must and you can fit a thick 360 up top offset in push pull.

Otherwise Id use a different case, such as the Corsair 800D, 900D, Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate, Arc XL, etc etc.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I was wondering to put one fan on the bottom.
> Have you placed the fan as intake or an out-take?
> Wouldn't it stealing a necessary air for the PSU fan which is next to it?
> I have a carpet with little hair.


See if you can mount it on something solid, if not then don't do it as it sucks up dust. I have the fan on the bottom as intake. The psu is also is pulling air in from the bottom.


----------



## Gunderman456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Were you able to plug in your 8pin with the rad in the way?
> 
> There should be room to add a pump and the HDD cages. There is already mounting hols for the HDD cage by the PSU.
> 
> 
> Also you can put the HDD beside the fan in the front and put the pump ontop of the HDD cage. Might have to make new holes.
> As for the Blu-ray do you actually need it? There is ways to make it external.


Thanks Sp33d, I considered that, but the power supply is too long to permit an HDD cage, pump and a rad in push/pull.

Yes, I was able to pull off that 360mm rad with the 8 pin in the way!









I did come out with a solution for keeping the SSD/HDD out front and on the bottom of the case, which I will showcase in my Hawaiian Heat Wave build log (in sig).

I also agree with you ebduncan, should have done more research before buying. I would have been happy with two 240mm rads but the two r9 290s (not withstanding my screw-up on the GPU thermal pads) were just too hot for the water loop and required more rad space.


----------



## Mog84kupo

May I join?

Here in Mexico its kinda hard to find good cases at a good price

My only concern are the CPU temps, in my older case (CM K280) barely reached the 65C and now I got the feelin that it gets to those temps a little more often

I know the stock coolers aren't that good, so I'll get a Corsair H100i in the next weeks


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> Thanks Sp33d, I considered that, but the power supply is too long to permit an HDD cage, pump and a rad in push/pull.
> 
> Yes, I was able to pull off that 360mm rad with the 8 pin in the way!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did come out with a solution for keeping the SSD/HDD out front and on the bottom of the case, which I will showcase in my Hawaiian Heat Wave build log (in sig).
> 
> I also agree with you ebduncan, should have done more research before buying. I would have been happy with two 240mm rads but the two r9 290s (not withstanding my screw-up on the GPU thermal pads) were just too hot for the water loop and required more rad space.


Things certainly heat up in my setup and I only have one R9-290, and a [email protected] Honestly I wouldn't mind adding another radiator. I will probably end up building a custom radiator enclosure, and just put everything in it (pump,rads, fans)

might be something to think about.


----------



## Gunderman456

Yeah, I've been considering modding the case to include that extra 240mm rad instead of having it sitting around doing nothing.


----------



## Travellerr

Well I have read that the 280x runs a bit hotter anyways, and this is a normal thing that this gpu can handle. Whether or not this is entirely sound information I cannot stay, but I have two 660's in the same case as you(windowed version) which I just put these components in last week from the 922 haf(high air flow) and I will be honest this Define R4 case keeps the components as cool as or cooler than the 922 yet at a way quieter noise level. i just ordered a more individualized fan controller today for this case since I have roughly 4 fans installed excluding the cpu fan and waiting for the brackets for cooler master so I can add a second one for push pull configuration. I wanted to ask how the Enermax performed and if you have the non silence version that can be found on the cpu cooler? because I have been considering buying two of them for the heat sink if the airflow and pressure was decent? but now that I have the controller coming in I am not so certain. Any feedback about the fans and being int he Define R4 chassis would be appreciated and welcomed, thanks and hope you are enjoying the gpu and case.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I use the Swiftech splitter.
> 5x Noctua NF-A14 PWM
> 2x Noctua NF-P12 PWM
> 
> All of it is on the cpu_fan header. Using speed fan, all my fans run at 30% (400-500 rpm) At those speeds, temps are still good at idle and when gaming is not d


So I got all of the Cougar CF-V14HPs installed. Upon turning on the computer there was this grinding noise, it sort of sounded like a diesel engine (but of course much quieter). I started to tear everything down and finally isolated the cause. The one Cougar CF-V14HP that was in a horizontal position was making the grinding noise. Just for kicks I tried the fan vertically and there is no noise. So the Cougar horizontal noise problem isn't fixed.

I bought 5x Noctua NF-A14 PWM and just installed them. They're so quiet at idle!!! I'm really happy now, the computer is a lot quieter than it was. At load they are pretty loud so I'm going to mess with my PWM profile a bit.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> So I got all of the Cougar CF-V14HPs installed. Upon turning on the computer there was this grinding noise, it sort of sounded like a diesel engine (but of course much quieter). I started to tear everything down and finally isolated the cause. The one Cougar CF-V14HP that was in a horizontal position was making the grinding noise. Just for kicks I tried the fan vertically and there is no noise. So the Cougar horizontal noise problem isn't fixed.
> 
> I bought 5x Noctua NF-A14 PWM and just installed them. They're so quiet at idle!!! I'm really happy now, the computer is a lot quieter than it was. At load they are pretty loud so I'm going to mess with my PWM profile a bit.


The problem wasn't fixed and still a design issue. NF-A14 PWM higher cost, but you get nice silent fans with no PWM tick at any speed. Which is what I like, and the big reason to get them.
Any fans up against filters or grills will have increase noise.


----------



## Travellerr

So I finally got the chassis which I got for the phenomenal price of 75 dollars then had another two of the r2 silence 140mm fans for just 10$. I wanted to say the seller I bought these from is a hero for people like me who could not find the case they wanted in their budget and was just plain tired of the 922haf(which was a case that is decent but something they never would of chosen given the chance, knowing what they know now).

I installed a silent 140mm fan with blue led as a rear exhaust fan, and then before installation of the motherboard with the Hyper 212 plus heat sink I added the CM Sickle and flow blue led fan(now it is not my ideal fan I would of rather a blue led fan with pwm and better static pressure but I got these fans for 5 bucks a piece) and will be adding another for a push pull when the bracket comes in from Cooler Master. I still have 2 fans from Fractal that I got from the seller of the cases, and I wanted to know if installing the 140mm fans on top as an exhaust and one as a intake is plausible with the components still inside? because I am going through some serious medical crap that just happened and cannot do anything over the top. So if anyone can give me any links or directions on the easiest way to install fans to the top of the chassis I would appreciate it. Also if anyone is in need of parts for the Define R4 case like a side panel, window or non, hdd racks, fans, etc there is a seller on e bay that has them up for close to retail prices but you can make them an lower offer and usually they will take it. The cases are going for 90 but with free shipping.


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> See if you can mount it on something solid, if not then don't do it as it sucks up dust. I have the fan on the bottom as intake. The psu is also is pulling air in from the bottom.


I will try to find some piece wood plate.
I have two original R2 fan and one Enermax.
Enermax have bigger airflow than R2, where will you placed it?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I will try to find some piece wood plate.
> I have two original R2 fan and one Enermax.
> Enermax have bigger airflow than R2, where will you placed it?


I put the R2 fan on the bottom and hooked it up to my Motherboard


----------



## Travellerr

See I thought about doing that but how my psu modular cables are it blocks it pretty much and do not think I could fit it


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mog84kupo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> May I join?
> 
> Here in Mexico its kinda hard to find good cases at a good price
> 
> My only concern are the CPU temps, in my older case (CM K280) barely reached the 65C and now I got the feelin that it gets to those temps a little more often
> 
> I know the stock coolers aren't that good, so I'll get a Corsair H100i in the next weeks


H100i is not worth it. I raised my temps by about 5 degrees coming from 64/65 C constant full load in my antec 1200. CM 212 evo is good enough for me.

I would invest that money in a full loop if you already have a descent cpu cooler or even get a 212 evo, they're dirt cheap! But that's just me.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> H100i is not worth it. I raised my temps by about 5 degrees coming from 64/65 C constant full load in my antec 1200. CM 212 evo is good enough for me.
> 
> I would invest that money in a full loop if you already have a descent cpu cooler or even get a 212 evo, they're dirt cheap! But that's just me.


I strongly disagree with EVERYONE who dogs on the H100i's.. the one I have keeps my CPU (FX-6300 4.5Ghz) at about 35C idle and not above 55C under full load.. it does a GREAT job.. the idea is to have enough room for enough air to be able to be moved through it.. and having decent static pressure fans on it.. eventually I will build a custom loop.. but i dont expect it to be able to cool my CPU any mroe than it already is by the H100i.. and since i cannot liquid cool my GPU.. there is no rush to build the custom loop... it will really only be for looks more than anything


----------



## Travellerr

I would have to agree my buddy installed one in my old cooler maaster 922 haf(which is suppose to be high air flow case) and it is a good case for air intake, but I will be honest when his computer was on idle in bios it was at 33c and when mine in the enclose fractal define r4 with a Hyper 212 plus heat sink with a sickle and flow fan (blue led) is keeping my cpu at 24c in idle. So, in my opinion the the only liquid cooling one should go for that really is worth the price difference from a good air cooler is things like the swifttech 220 and none closed loop units. I mean I know the 140mm rad and cooling units are not too bad. I would stick with the Air cooling though because I am overclocked to 4.2 and it runs just fine with very good cooling.

Does anyone know the best way to install fans on the top mounting point of the Define R4 case? and if it is possible with the motherboard and heat sink already in?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travellerr*
> 
> Does anyone know the best way to install fans on the top mounting point of the Define R4 case? and if it is possible with the motherboard and heat sink already in?


Yes but its tricky. Stick the screw in first then align the fan in the case


----------



## Tan1415

Hi Guys

Is it normal to have 35 degrees cpu temp in 7v speed mode? when idle.
Fractal Design XL r2. Btw it's really really super quiet. at &v and barely noticeble at 12v


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tan1415*
> 
> Hi Guys
> 
> Is it normal to have 35 degrees cpu temp in 7v speed mode? when idle.
> Fractal Design XL r2. Btw it's really really super quiet. at &v and barely noticeble at 12v


Without knowing what CPU, clock speed (OC or not), heatsink?
Is 7V the cpu fan or case fans?


----------



## Gunderman456

Not enough space in your case for an extended power supply, pump, a rad in push/pull configuration and an HDD Cage? Well here is my solution.



More pics and instructions on how to in my Hawaiian Heat Wave Build Log (in sig).


----------



## Tan1415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Without knowing what CPU, clock speed (OC or not), heatsink?
> Is 7V the cpu fan or case fans?


Sorry about that.

CPU 4570
No OC
Standard heatsink

7V is the casefans via the fancontroller in the XL R2. Can choose 5v 7v or 12v. It drives 3 fans. 2 in and 1 out


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tan1415*
> 
> Sorry about that.
> CPU 4570
> No OC
> Standard heatsink
> 
> 7V is the casefans via the fancontroller in the XL R2. Can choose 5v 7v or 12v. It drives 3 fans. 2 in and 1 out


That is fine on stock heatsink.


----------



## Mog84kupo

After a few days of using the Define R4 I have experienced higher cpu temps (AMD FX 6350)
With my older case, a simple CM K280 it will reach 65c on rare occasions, BF4 for example, but now it has reached the 70c while playing Elder Scrolls Online and Starcraft 2, I'm using the stock cooler and only the two base fans of the fractal case

Enviado desde mi XT1032 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mog84kupo*
> 
> After a few days of using the Define R4 I have experienced higher cpu temps (AMD FX 6350)
> With my older case, a simple CM K280 it will reach 65c on rare occasions, BF4 for example, but now it has reached the 70c while playing Elder Scrolls Online and Starcraft 2, I'm using the stock cooler and only the two base fans of the fractal case


Did you remove the top hdd cage to allow airflow. Temps should be that much difference.
Stock cooling for the 6350 is poor, you would better off get a better heatsink.


----------



## Travellerr

Hey thanks for writing back about the question I had, but I wanted to ask do I remove the screw on the very top of the case ? then add the fans screws from the outside top going on the inside top of the case? to screw in the fans I would have to do it like that correct? Because the only screw holes I have seen to mount a fan either 140 or 120 to the top already has screws in it holding the sound dampening material in it.


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> I put the R2 fan on the bottom and hooked it up to my Motherboard


I've moved Enermax UCTB14A fan from the top front position to the bottom, regulate it through manual regulator on the minimum, but
the temps are the same or even wrose (81 degrees GPU and 92! degrees VRM)...

I was wondering if DCII cooler is sitting right on it's place?


----------



## Tan1415

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> That is fine on stock heatsink.


Thanks. If I remove the top Hdd holder...how much cooler would it be?


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I've moved Enermax UCTB14A fan from the top front position to the bottom, regulate it through manual regulator on the minimum, but
> the temps are the same or even wrose (81 degrees GPU and 92! degrees VRM)...
> 
> I was wondering if DCII cooler is sitting right on it's place?


Bottom next to psu? Is it set as an intake?


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Bottom next to psu? Is it set as an intake?


Yes, exactly next to PSU set as an intake on minimum which is about 800 RPM.

So where can be problem?

Maybe DCII cooler with not good contact?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tan1415*
> 
> Thanks. If I remove the top Hdd holder...how much cooler would it be?


You should not be using the top HDD if there is no drives in there as it blocks airflow.


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

My R4 just turned a year old and I am starting to have issues with the Front Audio ports. The headphone jack is touchy now. I have to disconnect / reconnect a couple times to get the sound through it. i know it has a bad contact inside b/c I can hear slight audio hiss and loud volumes. I have already submitted a ticket with customer service at Fractal Design to see what can be done.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> Yes, exactly next to PSU set as an intake on minimum which is about 800 RPM.
> 
> So where can be problem?
> 
> Maybe DCII cooler with not good contact?


Hmm interesting. The r2 fans aren't that great anyways, try full blast?


----------



## saxovtsmike

Work in progress but it slowly comes to an end


----------



## Gunderman456

I figured why have an extra 240mm rad sitting idle when it can be used to further promote my endeavour for a cooler water loop!

Refer to the Hawaiian Build Log (in sig) for more details on the Fractal Design mod.


----------



## anteante

Finally done with my sleeving and now i just can sit back and relax


----------



## saxovtsmike

I really don´t know where I´ve seen hardware like that, the last time ;-)
Tubing looks really good, it´s really a fine line between tacky overdone bends when using hard tubing, but this one stays on the good side of that line.


----------



## pkrexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> Finally done with my sleeving and now i just can sit back and relax


Love it. I'd really like to get into acrylic tubing for my next water build.


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> Finally done with my sleeving and now i just can sit back and relax


Beautiful : Ouro:


----------



## streetsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> Finally done with my sleeving and now i just can sit back and relax


Is it still stable with the 5.25 bay removed...I have something very similar planned...the rest of my supplies should come tomorrow.


----------



## Travellerr

That looks absolutely amazing, and I just started getting involved more into building and modding pcs. I just replaced the 922 haf case with a Fractal Define R4 case. I will have to say I really like the Define much much more than the 922 just because of the fact it has been much more comfortable for me to work inside of it. I added some new fans, controllers, led lighting, and have been really considering adding some better sleeved cables to the modular psu that I have. I wanted to ask if you had any references and also links that you share with me in a pm or what not about places to buy and other things I would really appreciate it. Also, which case is this btw?


----------



## streetsports

Looks like a completely bayless define r4.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *streetsports*
> 
> Is it still stable with the 5.25 bay removed...I have something very similar planned...the rest of my supplies should come tomorrow.


Never mind I just took mine out...still very stable...took about 5 minute to pop the rivets out.


----------



## Travellerr

What did they do take of the front door to the Define R4 case? Because that is the case that I have been working on with upgrades, cable management, fan installation, light installation, and finally looking into a 140mm radiator to a 280mm depending on where I am going to place it or not. Like I said any links and information that could helpful to any of these things would be really appreciated by me.


----------



## streetsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travellerr*
> 
> What did they do take of the front door to the Define R4 case? Because that is the case that I have been working on with upgrades, cable management, fan installation, light installation, and finally looking into a 140mm radiator to a 280mm depending on where I am going to place it or not. Like I said any links and information that could helpful to any of these things would be really appreciated by me.


looks like the front plastic section wasn't reinstalled yet for the pictures


----------



## andyv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Travellerr*
> 
> What did they do take of the front door to the Define R4 case?


Do you mean how do you take the front panel off? If so it is very easy. Just grab it from the bottom and pull. I think there is some sort of indent you can stick your fingers in. As far as I know there is no way to remove the door and still have it look good.


----------



## kyismaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anteante*
> 
> Finally done with my sleeving and now i just can sit back and relax


holy cow, thats more then bayless, you cut the mobo tray / backing !

on another note, those perfect length cables are great.


----------



## CHLODZENIEnet

Wonder how good will be Node 804


----------



## Gunderman456

Wow, even though I took full responsibility for my drill chewing up the top filter on the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 and offered to buy a new one, Fractal Design just offered to send me a replacement for free.

Top company indeed.

That settles it for me, I was going to consider CaseLabs for my next build but between their excellent customer support and service on replacement parts for my USB cable and case filter, I will choose Fractal Design again and again!!!


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> My R4 just turned a year old and I am starting to have issues with the Front Audio ports. The headphone jack is touchy now. I have to disconnect / reconnect a couple times to get the sound through it. i know it has a bad contact inside b/c I can hear slight audio hiss and loud volumes. I have already submitted a ticket with customer service at Fractal Design to see what can be done.


Update: I contacted Fractal Design customer support. I let them know that I got my case March 2013, and after some troubleshooting, they are sending me a new Front Panel Audio port







some of the Best customer service i have encountered in a long time.


----------



## streetsports

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyismaster*
> 
> holy cow, thats more then bayless, you cut the mobo tray / backing !
> 
> on another note, those perfect length cables are great.


To me it looks like he just added in a white backer board between the mobo and mobo tray.


----------



## FendahFlex

Hi guys i just finished building my rig last night , let me know what you think of it: thumb:

















Sorry for those blurry, out of focus shots haha, oh well, photography isn't really my thing


----------



## beans444

Nice case Fendahflex.

I wanted to post... Fractal Design Define Mini Black Micro ATX Silent PC On newegg.ca this case looks cool, never saw it until now but yeah. + $10 off w/ promo code 321CAFREL08, ends 3/27


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FendahFlex*
> 
> Hi guys i just finished building my rig last night , let me know what you think of it: thumb:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for those blurry, out of focus shots haha, oh well, photography isn't really my thing


What kind of fans are those top and rear exhausts?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> What kind of fans are those top and rear exhausts?


Looks like Bitfenix Spectre Pro

@FendahFlex:
All you need now is to paint the GPU shroud/cooler







Loving the cooler!


----------



## FendahFlex

@beans444, thanks bro

@coelacanth, as what MiiX said above, they were all bitfenix spectre pro PWM lovely fans!









@Miix, i think you were pertaining to me and not Coel right? anyways, great suggestion bro, i might paint the GPU shrouds in the future if i got a spare time. thanks though


----------



## OdinValk

what exactly IS a fractal design build? simply a pc build with squares and angles? or is there something i am missing in these photos?

not criticizing.. just curious


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> what exactly IS a fractal design build? simply a pc build with squares and angles? or is there something i am missing in these photos?
> 
> not criticizing.. just curious


Not sure if serious...

Fractal Design is a company that makes PC cases and peripherals.


----------



## OdinValk

never heard of them, and I've been building rigs for over a decade.. guess I've just never looked into it.. they all look nice.. perhaps its because I have always like the bigger-mid sized cases like the corsair 400-500R and some of the others companies etc..

the smaller cases give me issues.. they're too small for me.. I like having space to build in.. but again.. all the builds i have seen in here look great!.. continue on!


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FendahFlex*
> 
> ...
> @Miix, i think you were pertaining to me and not Coel right?
> ...


Indeed


----------



## captainkelly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> never heard of them, and I've been building rigs for over a decade.. guess I've just never looked into it.. they all look nice.. perhaps its because I have always like the bigger-mid sized cases like the corsair 400-500R and some of the others companies etc..
> 
> the smaller cases give me issues.. they're too small for me.. I like having space to build in.. but again.. all the builds i have seen in here look great!.. continue on!


The R4 is actually quite spacious...on par with the 500R. I went from a 600T to an R4 and it was much easier to build in and the 600T is a bigger case. There's also an XL version of the R4.


----------



## Travellerr

I would have to agree it is very easy compared to many of the chassis's I have worked with on my own builds, upgrades, and even the chassis's I have put together in pc builds for family and friends in the past year alone I have probably put about 6 computers together for other people excluding my own pc and upgrade that I did very recently. I went from a 922 haf case that I got on sale this past year, and it is a good case for the price I got it for but it is not my style aesthetically, and it had no cable management to speak of which bothered me. I am still learning on how to put together good builds and have gotten better in the past few months especially because of how many builds I have done during the tax season. This chassis is the nicest chassis I have owned for myself, and it is on par with cases that are more expensive by a decent amount, having worked with cases like the haf x, Rosewill Thor case, and etc. I think this case is great for a purchase if someone is looking for something minimal, aesthetically brilliant imo with it's simplicity and feature rich quality materials. I also think the Arc Midi 2 is another case that looks great and if sound is not really an issue I would say this is a great buy. I ended up finding this case for 90 dollars open box, but with everything with it, from a computer parts recycle company through ebay. I talked the guy down to selling me the case for 75 and adding 2 more R2 140mm fans for another 10 dollars. I also got free shipping and this has to be the best purchase I have made for my pc in the past year. Sorry for the prolonged post, but I guess it goes to show how much of an impact this case has had on me. I also think that once I get a 140-280mm radiator it will work and look great in case.


----------



## streetsports

Here is my finished build
I7 4770k @ 4.8
16gb 2133 corsair
Asus z87 pro
Sli evga super clocked 780 ti's
128gb evo ssd (op & apps)
500gb ego ssd (games)
3tb 7200 HDD (movies)
1.5tb 7200 HDD (3d movies)
3 dell 23 inch 1080p
Qnix perfect pixel 27 inch 2560x1080
Sceptre 42 inch 3dtv
$1,000 custom loop...mcp655 pushing 60mm 280 rad, 60mm 140 rad, 30mm 240 rad, 30mm 140 rad, heatkiller rev3.0 and 2 ek full blocks.

And I'm sure I've missed stuff


----------



## streetsports

Whoops...double post


----------



## Revolvo

Would the xl fit two r9 290s with arctic accelero xtreme iv's, on a maximus formula vi? The refine r4 I currently have only allows me to fit the r9 in the middle pci express slot. If I place it in the slot closest to the i7, the g skill heat shroud gets in the way of the heatsink on the back of the card. I am looking to get a larger case that will allow me to use the top pci express slot after I file the accelero heatsink a bit, and the bottom third pci e slot that is currently not available to use since the psu is butt up against it. I love my current r4 but this restriction I have is unfortunate. Thanks for any help.


----------



## FendahFlex

@Revolvo

i think they would fit quite nicely on that case seeing that arc XL has 9 PCI slots. although you might run to some problems if your going to put your cards in the first and second pcie slots. arctic accelero will eat up 3 slots upon installation, i think is a good idea to put the cards on the first and last pcie slots to have a bit of space on one another, thus giving them room to a have a a good airflow from the intake fans.


----------



## DOMINATION2

People. help please. I want buy Fractal R4 window, but i have silencio 650, it's not mistake? silencio 650 is a good case, but can install only two 140mm fans, and back fan only 120mm... And if i buy FD R4 how better install fans? I allready have two Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro PK2 and one Arctic Cooling F14.
thanks for the help
My config:
Intel Core i5-3570K, 4400 MHz - Zalman CNPS10X FLEX + Noctua NF-S12B FLX
ASRock Z77 Extreme4
MSI GeForce GTX 780 Lightning
16Gb [email protected](9-10-9-24, 1,65V) 4x4Gb Kingston KHX1600C9D3K4/16GX
SSD Plextor M5pro 128GB 2.5" SATAIII
2x - Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 2TB 7200rpm 64MB ST2000DM001 3.5 SATAIII
Seasonic Platinum-760 (SS-760XP2), 760W


----------



## FendahFlex

hope this helps







: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r4-black-pearl


----------



## Revolvo

Would the power
i think they would fit quite nicely on that case seeing that arc XL has 9 PCI slots. although you might run to some problems if your going to put your cards in the first and second pcie slots. arctic accelero will eat up 3 slots upon installation, i think is a good idea to put the cards on the first and last pcie slots to have a bit of space on one another, thus giving them room to a have a a good airflow from the intake fans.







[/quote]

Would the PSU be butt up against the 9th expansion slot? If you could have even half an inch of airflow between the fans on the accelero 4 and the top of the psu.


----------



## Imitationcrabme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Nice case Fendahflex.
> 
> I wanted to post... Fractal Design Define Mini Black Micro ATX Silent PC On newegg.ca this case looks cool, never saw it until now but yeah. + $10 off w/ promo code 321CAFREL08, ends 3/27


I'm waiting for them to refresh the define mini with dual USB 3.0 ports on the front. Seems like a waste that the mobo header supports 2 ports, but there is only 1 port on the front. Several cases have a single 3.0 port, and I don't get it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolvo*
> 
> Would the xl fit two r9 290s with arctic accelero xtreme iv's, on a maximus formula vi? The refine r4 I currently have only allows me to fit the r9 in the middle pci express slot. If I place it in the slot closest to the i7, the g skill heat shroud gets in the way of the heatsink on the back of the card. I am looking to get a larger case that will allow me to use the top pci express slot after I file the accelero heatsink a bit, and the bottom third pci e slot that is currently not available to use since the psu is butt up against it. I love my current r4 but this restriction I have is unfortunate. Thanks for any help.


First measure from the top of the card 23mm to the ram. That is the height of the backplate module.


----------



## FendahFlex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolvo*
> 
> Would the PSU be butt up against the 9th expansion slot? If you could have even half an inch of airflow between the fans on the accelero 4 and the top of the psu.


if your card will populate the last PCI-E slot of the board, it will then take the 7th, 8th and 9th PCI-E slot of the case. by the looks of it, theres gonna be ample of gap for your cooler before it hits the PSU at the bottom as show in the picture given that the accelero IV will only take 3 slots at best that is.


----------



## germslopz

Hi everyone, so far I've been pretty happy with my Arc Midi case. However, since i bought it used off of CL, the previous owner misplaced the power cable to the fan controller that is included with the Arc Midi (the first version). Does anyone know where i can find one? Ive tried emailing customer service but its been over a week and i haven't heard back from them. Does anybody have some advice for me? Thanks for the help.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FendahFlex*
> 
> if you card will sit on the last PCI-E slot of the board, then it will take the 7th, 8th and 9th PCI-E slot of the case. by the looks of it, theres gonna be ample of gap for your cooler before it hits the PSU at the bottom as show in the picture given that the accelero IV will only take 3 slots at best that is.


Is that card dropping down at the end of it? It looks not level.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> Is that card dropping down at the end of it? It looks not level.


cards bend/dip on the right corner and his psu is up a bit on the right side as well.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Yes, it must be very heavy. Thanks.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Imitationcrabme*
> 
> I'm waiting for them to refresh the define mini with dual USB 3.0 ports on the front. Seems like a waste that the mobo header supports 2 ports, but there is only 1 port on the front. Several cases have a single 3.0 port, and I don't get it.


LOL I'll give you mine? jk I cant connect front usb3 to my mobo... x58 has em in the back but no plug for front.. upgrade time in a year or so.


----------



## CHLODZENIEnet

Yep, it's time to upgrade or just buy special adapter


----------



## Gunderman456

The Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 filter arrived today, or should I say the whole top of the case was shipped by Fractal Design!

I offered to buy the filter (since I chewed part of it with the drill) and they not only send the filter but the complete top of the case for free.

Now that is customer service and support!


----------



## germslopz

@Gunderman456 How long did it take for them to respond to your email. I emailed them 2 weeks ago and haven't heard back from them yet. I called but the only number i found was for technical support and they referred me back to the email thing.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *germslopz*
> 
> @Gunderman456 How long did it take for them to respond to your email. I emailed them 2 weeks ago and haven't heard back from them yet. I called but the only number i found was for technical support and they referred me back to the email thing.


I emailed them with a few questions and got a response back in a day. They do have very good customer relations. Maybe try another email?


----------



## germslopz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> I emailed them with a few questions and got a response back in a day. They do have very good customer relations. Maybe try another email?


I went to where it says "Contact Us" and filled out the form. There wasn't really an email address listed. Ill try different "types" I guess. i submitted using the "Other" type of request.


----------



## Gunderman456

I've e-mailed them on a couple of different issues and they got back to me in one to two days.


----------



## passinos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> The Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 filter arrived today, or should I say the whole top of the case was shipped by Fractal Design!
> 
> I offered to buy the filter (since I chewed part of it with the drill) and they not only send the filter but the complete top of the case for free.
> 
> Now that is customer service and support!


They have the best CS.
Sent me a front filter for free


----------



## watchthisspace

Question, does removing the dust filter/meshy material from the top of the case increase overall noise levels?? To me the stuff just chokes my top fan and when I take the whole panel off I can feel a lot more air being pushed out.


----------



## FendahFlex

i didnt remove the whole top cover though, i only remove the foam filter so my fans would exhaust air with little to no restrictions at all.

not to mention if you remove the top portion, the case would look a bit odd having something protruding on the front where the front I/O was located


----------



## streetsports

I don't think there is any reason to put a filter over an exhaust fan...that's just going to trap any dust inside the case...just run a tiny bit on the positive pressure side.


----------



## watchthisspace

In that case I shall look into removing the filter.

Hopefully next month I can get a NZXT Kraken x60 and mount it in the front to bring some silence and o/c potential to my 4670k that's still on the stock cooler.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *watchthisspace*
> 
> In that case I shall look into removing the filter.
> 
> Hopefully next month I can get a NZXT Kraken x60 and mount it in the front to bring some silence and o/c potential to my 4670k that's still on the stock cooler.


This is the only thing I don't like about this case, Its water cooling potential


----------



## FendahFlex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> This is the only thing I don't like about this case, Its water cooling potential










Potential?? lets see, Arc Midi R2 can support:

1: 360mm or 280mm or 240mm top mounted radiator
2: 280mm or 240mm at the front
3: 120mm rad at the bottom
4: 140mm or 120mm rad at the back.

and yet you didnt like its water cooling potential?









no offense bud, im just a bit confuse


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FendahFlex*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Potential?? lets see, Arc Midi R2 can support:
> 
> 1: 360mm or 280mm or 240mm top mounted radiator
> 2: 280mm or 240mm at the front
> 3: 120mm rad at the bottom
> 4: 140mm or 120mm rad at the back.
> 
> and yet you didnt like its water cooling potential?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no offense bud, im just a bit confuse


Err whoops forgot this is a fractal case thread not an r4 lol sorry


----------



## BambiBoy

Anyone who knows where I can mount a tube resevoir in my Arc Midi R2 case?


----------



## CoolGuy90

Question, how loud are the 1000RPM fans when on full speed?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CoolGuy90*
> 
> Question, how loud are the 1000RPM fans when on full speed?


They are not that loud to me.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

When you remove the top HDD cage you are left with 3 drive spaces on the bottom.
I didnt notice this before, but on the top on the bottom HDD cage. There is 2 screw holes that will fit exactly a 2.5" drive.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> When you remove the top HDD cage you are left with 3 drive spaces on the bottom.
> I didnt notice this before, but on the top on the bottom HDD cage. There is 2 screw holes that will fit exactly a 2.5" drive.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's awesome. I put both my SSDs on the backside of the motherboard tray.


----------



## saxovtsmike

It misses some tweaking and sleeve but roughly we´re getting there


----------



## dredeziel1

Still nice job. Well done.


----------



## AlphaC

Fractal Design Define R4 has "Blackout" edition now
www.fractal-design.com/home/define-r4-blackout



Fans, case, drive cages are all black.

$85 on Newegg for the one without the Window http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-352-038
$95 for the one with the tinted window http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-352-037


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4 has "Blackout" edition now
> www.fractal-design.com/home/define-r4-blackout
> 
> 
> 
> Fans, case, drive cages are all black.
> 
> $85 on Newegg for the one without the Window http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-352-038
> $95 for the one with the tinted window http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-352-037


----------



## sendjes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4 has "Blackout" edition now
> www.fractal-design.com/home/define-r4-blackout
> 
> 
> 
> Fans, case, drive cages are all black.
> 
> $85 on Newegg for the one without the Window http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-352-038
> $95 for the one with the tinted window http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=11-352-037


Too bad that ugly Moduvent still seems to have to be there, it's the ugliest thing on all Fractal Design cases which features it, I truly hate it, and being a Fractal fan, I decided to buy a new Mini, and then used the sidepanel from my old Mini, so the astetic would be almost complete.

Last thing to do on my Mini, is kill the top moduvent.


----------



## SliRefil

I can finally add mine


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SliRefil*
> 
> I can finally add mine


Details?


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Details?


His case is shy, as it peeks out from behind the monitor LOL


----------



## Norse

Moved Ragnarok into my servers Fractal design case







so much better cable management now need to install the other fans though


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norse*
> 
> Moved Ragnarok into my servers Fractal design case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so much better cable management now need to install the other fans though


Why you have the CPU fan blowing towards the GPU?
All the heat going on the back of the GPU is not good.


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Why you have the CPU fan blowing towards the GPU?
> All the heat going on the back of the GPU is not good.


Havent sorted all the cooling yet but it currently runs all well within temperate limits


----------



## SliRefil

I just don't like looking at all the cables ha, but I'll have some details coming. Been busy/lazy playing Dayz.


----------



## urbz1988

Hey sup everyone i just wanted to upload a few pix of my rig. It's not completely done yet but i hope you enjoy what i have done to it so far







.








This ram is called Avexir Core Series, you can get in on Newegg.com or Avexir's website if any one wanted to know.


----------



## nitroxyl

Very nice color scheme urbz1988!


----------



## matteas

Hi!
I've noticed that my new Define R4's side panels are not exactly flat; they are a bit bent. It's just a few millimeters, but you can see it when you look at the panel from the side. Is it normal? Should I be bothered by it?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matteas*
> 
> Hi!
> I've noticed that my new Define R4's side panels are not exactly flat; they are a bit bent. It's just a few millimeters, but you can see it when you look at the panel from the side. Is it normal? Should I be bothered by it?


Not normal and that would bug me. Shoot them an email and include a picture of them and see if they'll post some new panels to you.


----------



## Ar2r4eg

Hello dudes !
I make new build - powerful and quiet htpc + steam play machine in FD Node 605 with "liquid cooling"
Check this:

Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H || Intel Core i5-4670K || Zalman LQ320 || 2х G.Skill F3-19200C11-4GBXLD 2400MHz || Zotac GeForce GTX 780, N770-2GD5/OC || SSD Crucial M4-CT128M4SSD1 || 2x Seagate 1,5 Tb ST1500DM003-9YN16G || Blu-Ray RE SAMSUNG SE-506BB/TSBD || Asus Xonar D1 || 750W Chieftek || Fractal Design Node 605

http://sb.uploads.ru/r50tf.jpghttp://sc.uploads.ru/oEViu.jpghttp://sc.uploads.ru/nt1hI.jpghttp://sa.uploads.ru/R4SeF.jpghttp://sc.uploads.ru/qSRfN.jpg


----------



## Sadmoto

Hey I was looking at the fractal design 605 and it is very close to the dimensions I need in a case but I was curious if anyone has attempted to put a h100i for cpu cooling, if so, where/how?

also any other useful info for someone looking into this case that's going to have a full size gpu (10.8" long) and a non-modular PSU?


----------



## Ar2r4eg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sadmoto*
> 
> Hey I was looking at the fractal design 605 and it is very close to the dimensions I need in a case but I was curious if anyone has attempted to put a h100i for cpu cooling, if so, where/how?
> 
> also any other useful info for someone looking into this case that's going to have a full size gpu (10.8" long) and a non-modular PSU?


You can't install H100i in node 605


----------



## shidoshi064

I have I think an older Arc Mini that is my son's and I like the case for what it is. I would have never bought it for myself, but for my son's desk and the fact that I got it used with a computer all ready in it, is mainly why I have it. The side mount hard drives I think are interesting and it holds a decent lenght video card. The side mounted power button I do like as it keeps from getting pressed accidentally.

All in all it s not a bad case and I would say for someone who wants a mini computer it is a good case overall. I would rate it 8.2 out of 10.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shidoshi064*
> 
> I have I think an older Arc Mini that is my son's and I like the case for what it is. I would have never bought it for myself, but for my son's desk and the fact that I got it used with a computer all ready in it, is mainly why I have it. The side mount hard drives I think are interesting and it holds a decent lenght video card. The side mounted power button I do like as it keeps from getting pressed accidentally.
> 
> All in all it s not a bad case and I would say for someone who wants a mini computer it is a good case overall. I would rate it 8.2 out of 10.


You have a Core 1000 not an Arc Mini. Still a good case though.


----------



## crun

The holes scheme on the side cover is somehow affecting the airflow which makes my additional Fractal 140MM just too noisy for me, even on 5V







it only takes place when fan is set to intake (exhaust has no benefit for the GPU)

anyone else has noticed it? I am super-sentitivite to sounds in idle. I don't mind it load during load (not R9 290 reference kind of load though), but I will not tolerate it all the time... plus it is a nasty sound, not a simple air flow


----------



## Sadmoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ar2r4eg*
> 
> You can't install H100i in node 605


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ar2r4eg*
> 
> You can't install H100i in node 605


Why not? Don't you need 2x 120mm fan slots which it has? 
Or would it be too thick?
If so couldn't you mount the fans on the outside of the case next to the rad?

If the h100i is out of the question, what is a good aio cooler that would fit?


----------



## 17jotinha

Define R3 Mini cable manager











briefly inside photo.


----------



## shidoshi064

You are correct. It houses a AMD Phenom X4 965 BE, a ASUS motherboard, 8 GB DDR3 RAM, nVidia GTX680 and a 500GB HDD. It seems to do a good job with minecraft, some light video editing and the other stuff my son uses it for.

I am working on creating a home server and network right now. So if anyone has any advice I am open.


----------



## 17jotinha




----------



## Sadmoto

Hello!

as I've posted before I'm looking to move my parts into a fractal 605 and I'm wondering if a
NH-U9B SE2 would cool my 8320 enough in this case? I cant really find any solid reviews/benchmarks for what im trying to do.
there is a phantek that is a C shape with top/bottom fans that would fit but I would think the airflow would be limited because it was be facing the top of the case.
while the NH would be facing either my GPU and side 120mm slot or the 80mm slots and my ram depending on how it mounts.
the dimensions should according to the the fractal website.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> It misses some tweaking and sleeve but roughly we´re getting there


If you didn't hack the drive cage it would look much cleaner.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> If you didn't hack the drive cage it would look much cleaner.


Agree. Maybe he could fabricate something out of acrylic to make it look cleaner and then wrap it to fit in.

Still a bloody nice rig though.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Cause of too high temps i allready removed the top 360 and connected my mora2.I still need to tidie up things. Thx 4 nice comments


----------



## SclerosiS

Had a little time today and made a sleeved with paracord 30cm 8pin cpu extension. Connectors are 1 8pin male + 1 8pin female and 2x4pin male. Did some cutting before and want to restore the original look of the psu 8pin cable, thats where 2x4pin male are going. Didnt have a crimper for the pins so i soldered them. Took me about 5hours, but first time sleeving job. Think looks good.


----------



## WebTourist

Fractal Arc Mini water cooling solution









Unigine Valley [email protected]/8200 - i7 3960x @4.8



Unigine Heaven [email protected]/8200 & I7 [email protected]



Firestrike P14026 - линк


----------



## tongerks

Hi,

I got a Fractal Arc Mini R2 case. i have problems on fan controller, when i turn it to 7v all fans will turn off. my got same problem but on him the his system will restart when he turned the controller to 7v volts. is there a fractal support here?


----------



## WebTourist

I heard about a similar problem with arc mini of my friend. When hi change the speed the sistem turn off.
Please, remove all cables (reset, pled, led) from the motherboard except PWR. Restart and test again.


----------



## beans444

Bills getting crazy over at MNPCTECH with his new giveaway!


----------



## Cozmo85

I have an Arc Mini R2 now with the windowed side panel. What kind of a difference in gpu temps (evga acx in this case) would replacing the window panel with an arc mini panel with the 140mm fan hole?

Has anyone tested it?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> I have an Arc Mini R2 now with the windowed side panel. What kind of a difference in gpu temps (evga acx in this case) would replacing the window panel with an arc mini panel with the 140mm fan hole?
> 
> Has anyone tested it?


Not much difference or none at all. As long you have airflow coming from the front without being blocked by the top hdd cage.
You can add a bottom fan also.


----------



## Cozmo85

Thanks, yea i have 2 140's up top, 2 120's in front,and a 120 in the bottom plus an h60 120 exhausting. So my airflow should be solid.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Thanks, yea i have 2 140's up top, 2 120's in front,and a 120 in the bottom plus an h60 120 exhausting. So my airflow should be solid.


I would put the 140 in in the front and 120 in top.
140 would allow for more airflow in a wider area. The HDD cage blocks airflow, so top should be gone and bottom if you only have one HDD which can be put into the ODD bay.


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> I would put the 140 in in the front and 120 in top.
> 140 would allow for more airflow in a wider area.


R2 mini only has 120mm in front


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> R2 mini only has 120mm in front


Oops my mistake, thought you wrote Midi R2.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebTourist*
> 
> Fractal Arc Mini water cooling solution
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is just unnecessary. But good work though.


----------



## snoball

She lacks any real "theme" but I just finished up my R4 build.



Specs:
Intel Core i5 4670k 3.4 GHz 1.040v
Corsair H80i w/ Fractal 120mm Fans
16 GB G.Skill 1600MHz 9-9-9-27
MSI Z87-GD65 Motherboard
Asus GTX 770 DCII 2 GB
Creative Labs X-Fi Titanium Sound

2x Samsung EVO 840 250GB SSDs
1x WD Red 2TB

Corsair AX760

I'm awful at cable management so this was the best I could muster, 2 hours of recabling to get to what you see here.


----------



## wilow

My FD Arc Midi rev.1 setup


----------



## anthony279

R4 Build
Just a budget build that gets things done.



Specs:
Fractal Design R4
Kingston hyperX Beast 2x4GB 1600MHZ
Cooler master 212 EVO
AMD FX 8320
1TB HDD,120GB SSD
ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0
Seasonic G 750W
MSI GTX 760 OC ED.


----------



## ELan

Hi all, when all the finances fall into place I'm planning my 1st build in a Fractal Design R4 case. I'm up to page 500 of this thread soaking up all the inspiration I can from the awesome builds you've put together, only another 600 pages to go!


----------



## freeagentt

My R4..


----------



## BKinn

Welp, looks like I'm going to be selling my R4 and switching to a Node 804 now. Am I the only one excited to get their hands on this new case?!


----------



## MiiX

*Fractal Design Node 804*


The Node 804 is a micro ATX chassis which focuses on cooling performance and maximum configurability, all packed in an interesting new form factor with Scandinavian elegant design.

The dual chamber layout separates hot running components from the cooler ones and allows for unrestricted airflow over the motherboard, processor and graphics card.

The case comes with three excellent 120mm fans but can be upgraded with several additional fans if needed.
Featuring plenty of options for placing water cooling components, tall heat sinks and hard drives.
The flexibility of this case really gives the users the possibility to create their optimal system build.



Spoiler: Key features



Highly effective dual chamber case layout for best possible cooling.
Minimalistic design with an elegant brushed aluminum front panel
Unique hard drive mounting system, fitting up to 8 x 3.5″, 4 x 2.5" or up to 10 x 3.5", 2 x 2.5″ drives HDD/SSD
Three Fractal Design Silent Series R2 fans included with the case and space for an additional 7 fans.
Excellent water cooling support with space for up to 4 radiators simultaneously.
All intakes feature removable dust filters providing a dust-free interior.
Featuring a window side panel to show off your set up in style.
Additional space in the front to mount a slim optical bay drive and 2 x 2.5″ drives.
Fan controller included.
Five expansion slots that allows for multiple GPU setups.
Specifications

Micro ATX and Mini ITX motherboard compatibility
8 - 3.5″ HDD positions
2 - 2.5″ dedicated SSD unit positions
2 - Extra positions for either 3,5″ or 2,5″ drives
5 expansion slots
10 - Fan positions (3 x 120mm Silent Series R2 fans included)
Filtered fan slots in front, top and bottom
CPU coolers up to 160 mm in height
PSU compatibility: ATX PSUs up to 260 mm deep
Graphics card compatibility: Graphics cards up to 320mm in length. Graphics cards up to 290 mm in length may be installed if a fan is installed in the lower position in the front.
Velcro strap for easy cable management
Clear Window side panel included
Colors available: Black
Case dimensions (WxHxD): 344 x 307 x 389 mm
Net weight: 6 kg
Package dimensions (WxHxD): 370 x 468 x 412 mm
Package weight: 7.7kg
Cooling system

Front: 4 - 120mm fans (included is one hydraulic bearing 120mm Silent Series R2 fan, 1000 RPM speed)
Rear: 1 - 120/140mm fan (included is a hydraulic bearing 120mm Silent Series R2 fan, 1000 RPM speed)
Rear: 1 - 120mm fan slots (included is 1 hydraulic bearing 120mm Silent Series R2 fan, 1000 RPM speed)
Top: 4 - 120x140mm fans (not included)
Fan controller: 1 - Integrated fan controller for up to 3 fans (included)





Spoiler: Water cooling compatibility



Front (right chamber) - 240 mm radiator configurations up to 60 mm thick (with fans) and 278 mm tall are allowed.
Front (left chamber) - 240 mm radiator configurations up to 60 mm thick (with fans) and 278 mm tall are allowed. Using a radiator in this position prevents the use of a fan in the top position just next to it.
Top (right chamber) - 240/280 mm radiators up to 130mm thick (with fans) may be fitted if the HDD drive bays are taken out or placed elsewhere. No limitation to thickness.
Top (left chamber) - 240 mm radiator configurations up to 130 mm thick (with fans) will fit. Radiators in this position limits the height of memory modules to 48 mm tall.
Maximum radiator configuration: 1x240mm,1x280mm and 2x120mm radiators simultaneously.





Spoiler: Front interface



2 - USB 3.0
Audio in/out
Power button with LED (blue)
HDD activity LED (white)








_Link_


----------



## K4IKEN

First I'm seeing the 804.. looks pretty dope, but I'm dead set on the 304 as my next case until I settle down into my own place.


----------



## void

I like the fact I can get 8 HDD (maybe 10) into the 804 compared to the 6 in the Define Mini, will probably be my next case.


----------



## Norse

Just wondering can a Corsair H100/H110 fit into a Define R4? it says it has 2 fans slots at the top but the manual doesnt say anything about WC rads


----------



## Kimir

Yes.


----------



## Norse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes.


Perfect

Partner is going to have a fun build then, Define R4 with a Gigabyte Z87-HD3 mobo which is also black, going to swap the H100 fans out for fractal ones ie white then SATA, PSU Extensions etc white cables so its a purely white and black build


----------



## Nafedz

Hi guys, here's my arc mini r2. Been really happy with the looks of the case, my only gripe is that the space behind the mobo tray is real tight compared to my eleven hundred.

Also, I noticed that the other holder of the front grill is broken- it doesn't hold the grill in place, but clicks twice and leaves the grill uneven. Any suggestions on what to do? It's not a huge deal but a bit of a bummer since it's my first new case. Shown in pics


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nafedz*
> 
> Hi guys, here's my arc mini r2. Been really happy with the looks of the case, my only gripe is that the space behind the mobo tray is real tight compared to my eleven hundred.
> 
> Also, I noticed that the other holder of the front grill is broken- it doesn't hold the grill in place, but clicks twice and leaves the grill uneven. Any suggestions on what to do? It's not a huge deal but a bit of a bummer since it's my first new case. Shown in pics
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Contact Fractal about the front panel issue.


----------



## madpuma13

First post, seems like yall are friendly enough in here. Been working on my mini r2 in my spare time for about 2 weeks. It is just now coming together and thought I'd post it up.

Only managed to fit 2x 120x2 rads, front one an 80mm thick the top is 60. Could have put 80 up top as well but my fittings were just too big to allow push-pull configuration and I think doing just pull or push on 80 might be a little much.

I wanted to put a single 120mm rad on bottom but as you can see it would be REALLY tight. I wanted to showcase the sleeved cables more so I threw out the bottom rad idea.



Still more work to do!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madpuma13*
> 
> First post, seems like yall are friendly enough in here. Been working on my mini r2 in my spare time for about 2 weeks. It is just now coming together and thought I'd post it up.
> 
> Only managed to fit 2x 120x2 rads, front one an 80mm thick the top is 60. Could have put 80 up top as well but my fittings were just too big to allow push-pull configuration and I think doing just pull or push on 80 might be a little much.
> 
> I wanted to put a single 120mm rad on bottom but as you can see it would be REALLY tight. I wanted to showcase the sleeved cables more so I threw out the bottom rad idea.
> 
> 
> 
> Still more work to do!


Looking good


----------



## hasukka

How would you guys suggest setting up the case fans in Fractal Design Define R4? I currently have 4 fans, 3 of them plugged in. At the moment I'm running 2 intakes at the front (stock Silentseries R2 fan and a Noctua NF-A14 PWM) and one stock fan at the rear as an exhaust. I also have the side panel fan slot opened up with a dust filter.

Im struggling with a little to no free time at the moment, so I dont have much time to test them out myself. What do you suggest I would do with the one fan I have not plugged in yet?


----------



## RnRollie

I've had an Arc setup with top & front & floor intakes and rear & side exhaust
but i've done some ducting to make sure the fresh air from floor & bottom front fan goes straight into the GPU fan and the hot GPU air which doesn't get out the rear thus goes out the side.

the top intakes assure fresh air through the radiator in the roof and the rear fan takes most of that warm air out. Whatever isn't taken care of by the rear exhaust goes out the side.

Works well


----------



## kim jong so ill

Getting my Node 804 delivered today. Can't wait to start building in it


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Getting my Node 804 delivered today. Can't wait to start building in it


Lucky! I'm still waiting on Amazon to get some in stock. So far I've only seen them at Newegg but I don't want to pay for shipping.


----------



## kim jong so ill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> Lucky! I'm still waiting on Amazon to get some in stock. So far I've only seen them at Newegg but I don't want to pay for shipping.


Yeah I was shopping for a new video card and couldn't resist when I saw it hehe


----------



## BKinn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kim jong so ill*
> 
> Yeah I was shopping for a new video card and couldn't resist when I saw it hehe


I couldn't wait any longer haha. I broke down and bought it, hopefully it will be here on Monday. I can't wait to see your build!


----------



## kim jong so ill

Welp, nothing really to gawk at with my system, but this is what i managed to cram in here lol. Prepare for phone pics...




I wasn't able to add a fan in the rear due to the cooler being mounted up top, which is the only place I could stick it, leaving 2 fan mounts underutilized... Didn't want to have to drop money on a new cooler if I didn't have to (pretty poor decision on my part), but it looks like I will. 240 rads and air coolers seem to be the way to go. Idle CPU temp is pretty high at around 38c non-overclocked, so yeah...



Mounted 4 3.5" drives back here. 3 on the first rail, and 1 on the 2nd. It doesn't seem possible to populate all 8 with all the cables back there IMO, probably 6 at the most.

Also, 1 SSD is mounted to the back of the front panel

Cable management (my lack thereof







) is a pain. There aren't any places to tie down cables really, other than the velcro straps at the bottom of the case. The straps are however very useful.

Overall, I'm loving this new case despite the few minor gripes. I think it looks pretty good next to my t.v.



Oh, and my friend said it looked like a microwave as I was building last night bahaha...


----------



## zeroofmhx

quick question can swiftech h220 changed to exhaust mountable in arc mini r2? kinda new to this cases xD


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeroofmhx*
> 
> quick question can swiftech h220 changed to exhaust mountable in arc mini r2? kinda new to this cases xD


You can mount it on top in push/pull


----------



## zeroofmhx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can mount it on top in push/pull


good thing thanks


----------



## timShallahbim

After a brief dalliance over in the Air 540 forum...have pushed the button on the 804 - currently waiting for it from Scan. Can't wait to get it home...is a brand new build and my very first!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

So annoyed that the 804 has the i/o on the right hand side. I have my case up against a wall on the right side of my desk and there isn't room on the left.

Might just get one anyway and modify it so it's on the front panel or possibly the other side, add a reset button, fill the holes and give it a lick of paint.

Probably make a new motherboard tray too.

Now I really want one.


----------



## 7slinger

put together a node 605 over the weekend - gigabyte matx board, i3, onboard graphics and a single ssd. low profile noctua cooler.

also have a R4 and a arc midi. I like the fractal cases alot


----------



## timShallahbim

It is a little annoying that the window is on one side and IO/Drive is on the other. Top might have worked, doesn't the M1 have a top-slot?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Not going to bother with the 804 now.

Just bought an Arc Mini R2 and a few other bits.

Will post pics when it's all done.

Still trying to decide what graphics card to get now that I've sold my 670s.

Thinking 780.


----------



## MarcoZ

Hi! I'm new here.. got the R4 last week!


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarcoZ*
> 
> Hi! I'm new here.. got the R4 last week!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really nice and clean. Great job!









One comment: It looks like you have 2 intakes and 3 exhausts. With negative pressure in the case it's going to suck a lot of dust in.


----------



## newbie222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I got a Fractal Arc Mini R2 case. i have problems on fan controller, when i turn it to 7v all fans will turn off. my got same problem but on him the his system will restart when he turned the controller to 7v volts. is there a fractal support here?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WebTourist*
> 
> I heard about a similar problem with arc mini of my friend. When hi change the speed the sistem turn off.
> Please, remove all cables (reset, pled, led) from the motherboard except PWR. Restart and test again.


Hi, have you sorted the fan controller? I have the same problem and unfortunately no luck so far with Fractal support.


----------



## hereonyourown

Can anyone guess what case this is also what hard drives I am using


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newbie222*
> 
> Hi, have you sorted the fan controller? I have the same problem and unfortunately no luck so far with Fractal support.


What fans are being used?
Are all 3 being used?
Is the molex connector properly fitted.?


----------



## MarcoZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> Really nice and clean. Great job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One comment: It looks like you have 2 intakes and 3 exhausts. With negative pressure in the case it's going to suck a lot of dust in.


Thanks!









To reply to your comment: the exhausts (3x Noiseblocker eLoop B12-2 120mm ~ 50CFM) are different from the intakes (2 Fractal R2 silent 140mm ~ 66CFM) so yes, it's true, I have negative pressure but not so negative as if i had 5 identical fans. Anyway i'm evaluating to put a last 6th intake fan on the bottom if the dust starts to become a problem


----------



## BKinn

Got my Node 804 today! Time to transplant from my R4 into this. Build log and time lapse video will follow shortly (hopefully). I'll also take some photos of the 804 next to my R4 for size comparisons. This case is pretty small, I love it.


----------



## CaCP3RO

Finally I put parts in Define R3 . Currently this is beta version . for two or three weeks I will present end version of my Fractal .


----------



## newbie222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What fans are being used?
> Are all 3 being used?
> Is the molex connector properly fitted.?


Molex is properly fitted. Fans are 140mm R2 that came with the case. 4 days wait now for Fractal support. Not very nice.


----------



## mironccr345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CaCP3RO*
> 
> Finally I put parts in Define R3 . Currently this is beta version . for two or three weeks I will present end version of my Fractal .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice pic's. The rig is nice too.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newbie222*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What fans are being used?
> Are all 3 being used?
> Is the molex connector properly fitted.?
> 
> 
> 
> Molex is properly fitted. Fans are 140mm R2 that came with the case. 4 days wait now for Fractal support. Not very nice.
Click to expand...

Fractal is very good when it comes to CS. How did you contact them for support? https://support.fractal-design.com/support/home
If you are in the US you can call then directly. 855-446-3722


----------



## newbie222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Fractal is very good when it comes to CS. How did you contact them for support? https://support.fractal-design.com/support/home
> If you are in the US you can call then directly. 855-446-3722


Contact made through their website, ticket number is 5872 raised on the 17th of May. Maybe I have different standards when it comes to customer support....








As it is other people have complained about faulty integrated fan controller - in this thread and also here http://sammurphytalks.co.uk/2013/07/03/review-fractal-design-arc-midi-r2/

Apparently they got sorted by Fractal - http://sammurphytalks.co.uk/2013/08/16/fractal-design-arc-midi-r2-update/

But it is frustrating when there's been almost a week wait for me and I'm still here with the faulty fan controller.


----------



## storm-83

My build finally "finished" by the addition of a second gpu for sli...:

3570k @4.4 auto volt
cooler master seidon 240m
cooler master silent pro gold 1kw (overkill, i know..)
gigabyte z77mx-d3h
2x gigabyte 660ti oc SLI
8gb corsair vengeance 2100mhz cl7 low profile (blue)

this picture is all i really have for now:


still havent figured out how i am going to hide the exposed ends on the pci-e cables...


----------



## hasukka

Anyone willing lend me a hand and suggest a proper case fan for Define R4? Not sure if I should get PWM or Normal, here are the choices I got for normal: http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/1111/order/price/desc
and for PWM: http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/1113/order/price/desc ... Phanteks fans seem interesting.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

I just bought some Enermax Twister Pressure PWM fans. I love them.


----------



## Goor

*My ARC XL Build*

Radiator front: Alphacool NexXxos UT 60 240 mm
Radiator on top: Alphacool NexXxos ST 30 360 mm
Pump: Alphacool VPP 655
AGB: XSPC Acryl ic Dual 5,25"
Tubes 16x10 Masterkleer black
fittings Phobya 16x10
Fan front: 2 x Corsair SP 120 Quiet
Fan Top: 3 x Noiseblocker eLoop 1200 U/Min
Fan back: Corsair AF 140 Quiet

Core i5 4670K delidded @ 4700 and 1,22V

Temperature Idle: CPU: 29° GPU 31°
Temperature Games: CPU 52° GPU 39°
Ambiente: 23°


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goor*
> 
> *My ARC XL Build*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Radiator front: Alphacool NexXxos UT 60 240 mm
> Radiator on top: Alphacool NexXxos ST 30 360 mm
> Pump: Alphacool VPP 655
> AGB: XSPC Acryl ic Dual 5,25"
> Tubes 16x10 Masterkleer black
> fittings Phobya 16x10
> Fan front: 2 x Corsair SP 120 Quiet
> Fan Top: 3 x Noiseblocker eLoop 1200 U/Min
> Fan back: Corsair AF 140 Quiet
> 
> Core i5 4670K delidded @ 4700 and 1,22V
> 
> Temperature Idle: CPU: 29° GPU 31°
> Temperature Games: CPU 52° GPU 39°
> Ambiente: 23°
Click to expand...

Why do you need XL with one card and two empty 5.25 bays?


----------



## Goor

The projekt is not finished jet. The empty 5.25 bays are waiting for a nice fan control display.
One videocard is enough for me, but its good to have an option for a second one


----------



## BKinn

Here are some quick photos of my Node 804. Still working on the time lapse video of the build and I'll get better photos soon. As you can see, the case got dusty very quickly.


----------



## dredeziel1

looking good so far to me...Im working on switching out my Air 540 to an Arc XL..Loving Fractal..


----------



## Goor

The ARC XL is cool, only the window is to dark


----------



## dredeziel1

thats the only thing i dont like...gonna throw alot of led strips in there..


----------



## Doc Zinger

Just got my first Fractal case, a mini R2. It looks like the love child between my Cooler Master 840ATCS build and my Corsair 650D build, how could I resist?

Not sure WTH I need another computer, but guess that isn't a very good reason not to build another one. Am trying to get a parts list together and get started, thinking about building around a ASUS Gryphon z87 mobo with the armor kit, and make selections that match that style and color layout.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Installed my 780. It's a beast (size & performance) compared to my 670.

Just waiting for my PWM splitter and then I can manage the cables and post some pics.


----------



## cmdub

man why do the ty-14x's and the r4 not wanna play nice. i dont mind getting my hands dirty and slicing some of the sides off but damn man why cant u just make the front intakes a wider birth


----------



## falcon26

Ok here is mine. I am waiting on some white 2 pin I/O cables to come for my front panel hookups. They should be here around Tuesday. The only other thing that is kinds bothering me is the white cable on the bottom going to the Sata Drive. It stands out too much. I think I will get a sata extension that is black so it blends in with the back of the case....

http://postimg.org/image/63cnxtx25/


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Behind the scenes.



Good side coming soon.


----------



## Alex11223

Looking for cooling recommendations for my XL R2, regarding replacement of the standard fans. I want it to be as quiet as possible.

As I understood the best ones are Noctua NF-A14 FLX and ULN. Should I take FLX or ULN? As I understood ULN should be more quiet, but people usually take FLX for this case.
And how much should I take, where place them, which in and which out? I am really newbie with cooling.









Intel i7 4770k
Scythe Mugen 4
Asus Sabertooth Z87
Gainward GTX770 2GB
Plextor M5P SSD 256GB, WD Green 1TB, 3TB
Corsair RM 650W

Almost no overclocking.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Behind the scenes.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good side coming soon.


I have that same PWM splitter mounted in the same spot. It's great. I was mulling over where to mount it in the case and saw another poster in the thread mount it there with a screw.


----------



## zeroofmhx

im in the middle on finding aio 240mm rads for my arc mini r2 im leaning on corsair h105 but the rad is 38mm thick my ram is ballistix tactical tracer and mobo is m6gene question is can i fit h105 in my case? im leaning also to h220 and glacer 240L


----------



## Gobigorgohome

Is this thread for Arc Midi/XL R2 also?

I have a question though, could I fit an E-ATX motherboard in the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2? I am cutting back on the cost and I am going for external radiator so quite a bummer that it does not have watercooling grommet holes, but I have to find the cutter I guess.


----------



## pkrexer

Just made a change to my setup. Decided to squeeze a 2nd 290x into my Midi2. Its almost ready, just need braided cables for my 2nd GPU.

Wish I had more Rad space now, these puppies put off some heat.


----------



## CaCP3RO

Snow Fractal :


----------



## Kimir

Clean build, great photograph!


----------



## LuckySe7ens

can't seem to find any good pics or posts of it, but you guys must know.

I have a core 1000 and would like 2x120mm front intake fans, is this reasonably doable?


----------



## RnRollie

probably only if you yank the drive cages out


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckySe7ens*
> 
> can't seem to find any good pics or posts of it, but you guys must know.
> 
> I have a core 1000 and would like 2x120mm front intake fans, is this reasonably doable?


Totally doable. head over to the Core 1000 forum thread for builds that have done this, there are a few!

Link in sig


----------



## Phoney

I just built my new system over the weekend, cannibalizing some parts from my old PC

Fractal Design R4 Titanium
Gigabyte H97-D3H
i5-4690
8GB G.Skill sniper 1600
2 x 250GB SSD
2TB WD HDD
Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce GPU
Antec Earthwatts 500W
DVD+RW

I put one of the stock 140mm fans on the front top as intake, another on the side as intake next to the GPU. Then my existing Enermax Magma Batwing Blade 120mm as exhaust at the rear, and completely removed the top HDD bay to allow more airflow. It's running cool, and whisper quiet.

A couple of questions:

1. The front fan frame doesnt appear to click into anything. It just kind of sits there at the front of the case. ie: I open the front door, then unclick the second door and swing that down. And there's the fan frame just sitting there loosely not secured to anything. Not that this is really a problem per say, but is this normal? Seems like a design flaw to me.

2. I plugged all three fans into the case power supply cables, rather than the MB fan sockets. Is this preferred? HWMonitor obviously shows FANPMW0,1 & 2 as 0%. Being able to monitor the fan speed would be cool, pardon the pun.

3. This is more to do with my MB rather than the case, but HWMonitor also has TMPIN1 permanently on -54C (-67F). Why would this be so?

Cheers


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoney*
> 
> I just built my new system over the weekend, cannibalizing some parts from my old PC
> 
> Fractal Design R4 Titanium
> Gigabyte H97-D3H
> i5-4690
> 8GB G.Skill sniper 1600
> 2 x 250GB SSD
> 2TB WD HDD
> Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce GPU
> Antec Earthwatts 500W
> DVD+RW
> 
> I put one of the stock 140mm fans on the front top as intake, another on the side as intake next to the GPU. Then my existing Enermax Magma Batwing Blade 120mm as exhaust at the rear, and completely removed the top HDD bay to allow more airflow. It's running cool, and whisper quiet.
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> 1. The front fan frame doesnt appear to click into anything. It just kind of sits there at the front of the case. ie: I open the front door, then unclick the second door and swing that down. And there's the fan frame just sitting there loosely not secured to anything. Not that this is really a problem per say, but is this normal? Seems like a design flaw to me.
> 
> 2. I plugged all three fans into the case power supply cables, rather than the MB fan sockets. Is this preferred? HWMonitor obviously shows FANPMW0,1 & 2 as 0%. Being able to monitor the fan speed would be cool, pardon the pun.
> 
> 3. This is more to do with my MB rather than the case, but HWMonitor also has TMPIN1 permanently on -54C (-67F). Why would this be so?
> 
> Cheers


There are some holes in the plastic fan housing bit behind the drop down flap. You can secure the fans using normal fan screws.

Fan monitoring is not possible using the built in fan controller unfortunately.

Not sure what temp that is, sorry.


----------



## Phoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> There are some holes in the plastic fan housing bit behind the drop down flap. You can secure the fans using normal fan screws.
> 
> Fan monitoring is not possible using the built in fan controller unfortunately.
> 
> Not sure what temp that is, sorry.


Thanks! Actually I just discovered that if you slide/push the fan housing upwards it kind of clicks into place even without screws. Not very tightly, but I reckon this will be enough for now.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoney*
> 
> Thanks! Actually I just discovered that if you slide/push the fan housing upwards it kind of clicks into place even without screws. Not very tightly, but I reckon this will be enough for now.


Sorry I thought you meant that the fans were just sitting there. Yeah the plastic housing has a mechanism at the top that clicks into place.


----------



## reset1101

Hi all, I'm pretty new to this forum and I have just finished the build after lots of changes in the past months. So I thought it would be a good idea to share it with you all. Hardware is a hobby for me as is for all of us I guess. Here are my rig specs:

Fractal ARC XL + 2 noctua NF-A14 FLX in front and Corsair AF140 in the back
Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000w
Gigabyte Z87X-OC
i7 [email protected],3GHz
H110 + 2 Noctua NF-A14 FLX
2x8 Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866Mhz
2 x MSI GTX780 Twin Frozer
Asus Xonar DG
500GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD
2 x WD Caviar Red 3TB

Fans are set to 7v in normal use so pretty quiet. Gaming I turn them to 12v, needed to get all the heat from the VGAs out of the case. But u can only hear a lot of air flow, no weird noises.

As you can see the side pannel is modded. I didnt like the stock one, too small and smoked to let the hardware shine. So an uncle of mine did the job. Isnt perfect, in fact the right side is too ondulated, but the case has won so much with it I dont really care.

Im pretty happy with how my computer perfoms, looks and sounds (Im a silence freak). Here are the pics. Sorry for the one without flash, just wanted to show illumination a bit.


----------



## Kimir

why so small pictures


----------



## reset1101

Sorry, fixed, still figuring out how forum works.


----------



## DiNet

HI
I've got 605 and questions.
I see 2 posts where people mounted SSD or Water in "front". Like in this post - http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/11060#post_22120740

I can't seem to figure out how they did that...

I desperately want to WC gpu (Accelero Hybrid II - 120), as it makes too much noise under load and takes forever to cool it down.
And if you think it'll help me at all?
Right now I have an option to dump node 605 and maybe get R4. It still is a living room, but at least I will be able to game on it without constant fear of overheating and/or extremely loud fans.

Tried 560Ti, 480 GB windforce. Then I tried to remove windforce from 480 and place 2 noctua 120mm fans in front. Results with stock coolers = noise, with noctua = overheating. HAd noctua's with zip-ties as tight as possible and also tried to position them 1cm from HS.
Now it's 560Ti inside and 1 noctua at 1cm keeps it fine and quite, but I will be buying 780 in next few month and have concerns about gaming on it.
Haven't played any heavy GPU game since I got 605...

I'm also thinking to take top cover to CNC next week to get some vent holes over the GPU side.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Hi all, I'm pretty new to this forum and I have just finished the build after lots of changes in the past months. So I thought it would be a good idea to share it with you all. Hardware is a hobby for me as is for all of us I guess. Here are my rig specs:
> 
> Fractal ARC XL + 2 noctua NF-A14 FLX in front and Corsair AF140 in the back
> Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000w
> Gigabyte Z87X-OC
> i7 [email protected]
> H110 + 2 Noctua NF-A14 FLX
> 2x8 Corsair Dominator Platinum 1866Mhz
> 2 x MSI GTX780 Twin Frozer
> Asus Xonar DG
> 500GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD
> 2 x WD Caviar Red 3TB
> 
> Fans are set to 7v in normal use so pretty quiet. Gaming I turn them to 12v, needed to get all the heat from the VGAs out of the case. But u can only hear a lot of air flow, no weird noises.
> 
> As you can see the side pannel is modded. I didnt like the stock one, too small and smoked to let the hardware shine. So an uncle of mine did the job. Isnt perfect, in fact the right side is too ondulated, but the case has won so much with it I dont really care.
> 
> Im pretty happy with how my computer perfoms, looks and sounds (Im a silence freak). Here are the pics. Sorry for the one without flash, just wanted to show illumination a bit.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice. The plastic raisl on the HDD cage can be removed. Also you can hide the wires for the HDD/SSD to the back.
The PCI-e cable you can adjust to have them do straight down coming out the bottom grommet.
Over all very good.


----------



## Nemesis429

My long awaited PC Build took me a few days to do what I wanted, this is pretty much my first PC Build that I've done proper, the USB cable from the Corsair cooler will be removed once I set it to green, I have yet to turn it on as my room is a mess







.

Sorry for the crappy quality photos, hardly any light in my room.

Front:


Back:


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Very nice. The plastic raisl on the HDD cage can be removed. Also you can hide the wires for the HDD/SSD to the back.
> The PCI-e cable you can adjust to have them do straight down coming out the bottom grommet.
> Over all very good.


Thanks a lot for your replay and ideas. I didnt hide the SSD/HDD wires on purpose cause of the sleeving on the power cable. Otherwise I would have hidden them.

I write down the other 2 ideas, I think my rig would look even better with them


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis429*
> 
> My long awaited PC Build took me a few days to do what I wanted, this is pretty much my first PC Build that I've done proper, the USB cable from the Corsair cooler will be removed once I set it to green, I have yet to turn it on as my room is a mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Sorry for the crappy quality photos, hardly any light in my room.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Front:
> 
> 
> Back:


Advise take the ssd in the HDD and put it in the ODD bay or somewhere else. No point in losing airflow for one SSD.


----------



## Nemesis429

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Advise take the ssd in the HDD and put it in the ODD bay or somewhere else. No point in losing airflow for one SSD.


I'm going to be putting 2x WD Red 3TB at the bottom also.

I would put all three (1 ssd+3 hdd) in the ODD, but I would rather them be cooled properly.


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nemesis429*
> 
> My long awaited PC Build took me a few days to do what I wanted, this is pretty much my first PC Build that I've done proper, the USB cable from the Corsair cooler will be removed once I set it to green, I have yet to turn it on as my room is a mess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Sorry for the crappy quality photos, hardly any light in my room.
> 
> Front:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This is so much cleaner than my first PC build, but in fairness to myself such nice cases did not exist when I got started. Nevertheless I still couldn't have managed something that nice on my first go.

Nice work!


----------



## Nemesis429

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> This is so much cleaner than my first PC build, but in fairness to myself such nice cases did not exist when I got started. Nevertheless I still couldn't have managed something that nice on my first go.
> 
> Nice work!


Thanks


----------



## sprigs

I bought parts for my build that include a Core 3000 and a NZXT havik 140. I should've looked at the specs of the case before buying it, but anyway the case specs state that the max CPU cooler it can accommodate is 160mm but my the Havik 140 has a height of 166mm. Would I beable to get away with the 6mm diff? Or should I return it for something bigger?

I haven't opened anything up yet and don't want to find out when installing the parts that I can't fit the cooler or force it to fit and damage something.

update : Was a good looking case inside out, but couldn't wait for a response, so I traded it in for CM 690 iii


----------



## falcon26

Here is mine updated R4 going to replace that white fractal fan with 2 Corsair Red AF series ones..

http://postimg.org/image/aq4wirubx/


----------



## dredeziel1

New Build...Arc XL..


----------



## hfernandes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> Finished for now. Although looking to upgrade my 2500k. The BF4 beta has been kicking its ass but no point in making any decisions until the final product is out!


Hi All.
I'm about to buy the Mini R2 but I need to figure out something first.

I like the above acrylic color (or lack of color), looks transparent.

I really don't like the smoke window.I love the white fans style and smoke changes that.

Is it possible to change the smoked acrylic to a total transparent acrylic or glass (I did that already with 3mm glass in other case!) without complex mod?
I don't have tools to cut the panel or make complex changes in side panel.

Should be a strength forward change.

If the change is complex, I will go with Corsair 350D with window.

Can someone help?


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hfernandes*
> 
> Hi All.
> I'm about to buy the Mini R2 but I need to figure out something first.
> 
> I like the above acrylic color (or lack of color), looks transparent.
> 
> I really don't like the smoke window.I love the white fans style and smoke changes that.
> 
> Is it possible to change the smoked acrylic to a total transparent acrylic or glass (I did that already with 3mm glass in other case!) without complex mod?
> I don't have tools to cut the panel or make complex changes in side panel.
> 
> Should be a strength forward change.
> 
> If the change is complex, I will go with Corsair 350D with window.
> 
> Can someone help?


The case i bought had smoked window..Led lights helped alot and im really happy the way it turned out...not to dark and not to bright..although i dont know if your case comes with tinted or clear side panel window..You might have to contact Fractal and get more details...


----------



## hfernandes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> The case i bought had smoked window..Led lights helped alot and im really happy the way it turned out...not to dark and not to bright..although i dont know if your case comes with tinted or clear side panel window..You might have to contact Fractal and get more details...


Thanks for your reply.

I will give the Mini R2 a chance.
I already have a really bright white leds stripe (led 5050) so I will be able to put a lot of light inside.

The fact is 350D is 27% more expensive for me and I don't think the clear windows justifies that.

My current case:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## sigilens

I sort of finished my build as well.
Still thinking about replacing the stock H100i fans for Noctua IndustrialPPC NF-F12 and maybe a different psu.

Specs :

Fractal Design Define R4 Pearl Black
Asus Sabertooth x58
I7 920 @ 4.00 Ghz
3x2gb GeiL Value 6 GB kit
3x2gb Corsair TR3X6G1600C8D G
Sapphire Dual-X R9 270X
Cooler Master Real Power M620
Corsair H100i
1x Kingston SSD Now 128GB
2x Seagate 1.5TB 3Gb/s
1x Seagate 2.0TB 6Gb/s
Plextor DVD/RW
Green or Red led. Depends on the angle of the transmitter.
4x Fractal Design Silent Series R2 140mm

I also need to get me a small Philips-head to remove the upper plastic hdd case slider.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> I sort of finished my build as well.
> Still thinking about replacing the stock H100i fans for Noctua IndustrialPPC NF-F12 and maybe a different psu.
> 
> Specs :
> 
> Fractal Design Define R4 Pearl Black
> Asus Sabertooth x58
> I7 920 @ 4.00 Ghz
> 3x2gb GeiL Value 6 GB kit
> 3x2gb Corsair TR3X6G1600C8D G
> Sapphire Dual-X R9 270X
> Cooler Master Real Power M620
> Corsair H100i
> 1x Kingston SSD Now 128GB
> 2x Seagate 1.5TB 3Gb/s
> 1x Seagate 2.0TB 6Gb/s
> Plextor DVD/RW
> Green or Red led. Depends on the angle of the transmitter.
> 4x Fractal Design Silent Series R2 140mm
> 
> I also need to get me a small Philips-head to remove the upper plastic hdd case slider.


I like...great job...


----------



## KevGann

Just finished my first custom PC, sort of. I still need a cpu cooler, more hard drives and a ssd.

Specs:

Fractal Design Arc mini R2
Asus Gryphon z77 motherboard
Intel Haswell i5 4670k
(1) Corsair Vengeance 8gb
Asus gtx660 SC
(1) Toshiba 2tb HDD
(4) Fractal Design R2 fans = (1) 140mm (3) 120mm
OCZ ZT 550W modular
SilverStone L.E.D. strip (white)







*Shoddy cable organization

Simple build but it does the job extremely well, while being pretty silent too.


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> Just finished my first custom PC, sort of. I still need a cpu cooler, more hard drives and a ssd.
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Fractal Design Arc mini R2
> Asus Gryphon z77 motherboard
> Intel Haswell i5 4670k
> (1) Corsair Vengeance 8gb
> Asus gtx660 SC
> (1) Toshiba 2tb HDD
> (4) Fractal Design R2 fans = (1) 140mm (3) 120mm
> OCZ ZT 550W modular
> SilverStone L.E.D. strip (white)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Shoddy cable organization
> 
> Simple build but it does the job extremely well, while being pretty silent too.


Cable mgt is tough with the fractal..Mine is a hot mess also...do what you can and then let it go...nice build btw..


----------



## RonHGeneral

I have a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Case
MSI Z87 GD-65 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) 1600MHz RAM
Intel i7-4770K CPU @ 4.0 GHz
Asus DirectCUII GTX 780 Graphics Card
be quiet! Dark Rock 2 CPU Cooler
2X Corsair SP120 Case Fans
Corsair AX760 PSU
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD
Samsung 840 Evo 500GB SSD


----------



## dredeziel1

What you guys think about my front grill?..


----------



## Jemster

Hello all, first post on the forums and just a simple question out there for those who have watercooled their Fractal Arc Mini R2s.

I can see alot of you have dual 240mm rads and some have even taken the ODD cage out to stick a whopping big 360mm in there but my questions is this.

How liberal is the 275mm max length on the front radiator as specified by Fractal?

I want to fit one in there but all the ones I'm finding are 278 / 280 + mm

What rad are you guys running that fits, recommendations are most welcome and I'm looking at 45 or 60mm thick rads

Same question goes for the top rad, what length can I used before I start getting into trouble with the ODD cage?

AS I'd prefer to keep it / maybe put my pump / res in there

I know this question could probably be asked in the W/C area of the forums but I was hoping to catch the attention of Fractal Arc Mini R2 owners by posting it here.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jemster*
> 
> Hello all, first post on the forums and just a simple question out there for those who have watercooled their Fractal Arc Mini R2s.
> 
> I can see alot of you have dual 240mm rads and some have even taken the ODD cage out to stick a whopping big 360mm in there but my questions is this.
> 
> How liberal is the 275mm max length on the front radiator as specified by Fractal?
> 
> I want to fit one in there but all the ones I'm finding are 278 / 280 + mm
> 
> What rad are you guys running that fits, recommendations are most welcome and I'm looking at 45 or 60mm thick rads
> 
> Same question goes for the top rad, what length can I used before I start getting into trouble with the ODD cage?
> 
> AS I'd prefer to keep it / maybe put my pump / res in there
> 
> I know this question could probably be asked in the W/C area of the forums but I was hoping to catch the attention of Fractal Arc Mini R2 owners by posting it here.


If you stick to the fan mounts there which is either 120mm's or 140mm's then just mount a rad that matches the fan sizes and you wont have any issues with it not fitting and needing to remove the ODD Cage.

So for example if there are two 140mm fan slots on the top and two 140mm slots in the front, you got space for two 280mm rads I would assume and then you can just screw it on with the fans


----------



## Jemster

You would assume, but thats most likely not the case as it says Max rad length of 275mm. You have to take into account the fittings, end tank and frame of the rad. Hence asking the question prior to buying as all 2x120rads arn't the same. If you have an ARC Mini R2 I sure would love some measurements.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonHGeneral*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Case
> MSI Z87 GD-65 Motherboard
> Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) 1600MHz RAM
> Intel i7-4770K CPU @ 4.0 GHz
> Asus DirectCUII GTX 780 Graphics Card
> be quiet! Dark Rock 2 CPU Cooler
> 2X Corsair SP120 Case Fans
> Corsair AX760 PSU
> Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD
> Samsung 840 Evo 500GB SSD


Cool









Unless you have no fans at all at the front, might wanna consider turning the drive cages 90° or removing them completely to improve air intake from the front


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jemster*
> 
> Hello all, first post on the forums and just a simple question out there for those who have watercooled their Fractal Arc Mini R2s.
> 
> I can see alot of you have dual 240mm rads and some have even taken the ODD cage out to stick a whopping big 360mm in there but my questions is this.
> 
> How liberal is the 275mm max length on the front radiator as specified by Fractal?
> 
> I want to fit one in there but all the ones I'm finding are 278 / 280 + mm
> 
> What rad are you guys running that fits, recommendations are most welcome and I'm looking at 45 or 60mm thick rads
> 
> Same question goes for the top rad, what length can I used before I start getting into trouble with the ODD cage?
> 
> AS I'd prefer to keep it / maybe put my pump / res in there
> 
> I know this question could probably be asked in the W/C area of the forums but I was hoping to catch the attention of Fractal Arc Mini R2 owners by posting it here.


The numbers that fractal gives are correct, unless you get a bit creative







I had to "force" the top OD cage a bit to fit a Kraken X60.

A thing to remember thou is that radiators tend to be referred to like 120.1 , 120.2 (240mm) , 120.3 (360mm) , 140.2 (280mm) etc
basically just as a fan and "as long as x fan(s)"

In reality however, while a 120.2 (240mm) is indeed as wide as a fan or just a few mm wider, something like 122 or 125 , the length is more... some times much more... depending on Brand, make, model you have to add to the overal length the common chamber and the plenum chambers and the fittings & such... You have to add somewhere between 30 to 50mm with 35mm very common for cheap alu rads in AIOs from Asetek & CoolIt (Corsair, NZXT, Thermaltake, etc) . While for Copper rads as used in custom build, adding 40-45mm is the norm.

Thus, a "240" rad is in reality between 270mm & 280mm long, a "280" is between 305mm & 320mm long

So when Fractal says a 275mm wil fit, it means that most, but not all 120.2 (240mm) rads will fit.

Which rads exactly depends on brand, make, model.. but these numbers are published on the vendors site

The very popular Alphacool XT45 is (LxWxH): 280x124x46mm for 2x120mm fans
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p12348_Alphacool-NexXxoS-XT45-Full-Copper-240mm.html

While a Watercool HTSF is (LxWxH): 290x130x50 mm, an Aquacomputer (LxWxH) 285x147x64 , a BlackIce SR1 (LxWxH) 277x133x54mm

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c95/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiators.html
http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php/cat/c25_Radiators.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457

Something to consider over the "common" AIO , is what Swiftech has to offer
The H220 (also known as the Coolermaster Glacer),
the upcoming H200X ,
and... the MCR-Drive which has reservoir & pump build-in the radiator -a real space saver 








http://www.swiftech.com/MCR-X20-Drive-Rev3.aspx

.


----------



## Jemster

Well if the 275mm is correct but you forced a 312.5mm long one it that makes me feel better. I was going to do a custom loop, no AOIs. Rads I'm looking at are 278mm so I should be right.

Would you be able to get me a measurement of the top rad max length?


----------



## RnRollie

For the ARC MIDI (R1) & XL you should be able to do a 120.3 (360) , because it kinda "slips into" the top OD cage if you offset it from the offset (iow drill additional mounting holes)
A 140.2 (280) couldn't fit by default because of the offset and the OD cage getting in the way... not enough room to extend/slip in into the drive cage .. you hat to take the hacksaw (or pliers) to the OD top cage for it to fit... there are some pix of that in this thread.

I think Fractal has changed the design a bit with the ARC R2 & XL so that fitting a 280 or a 360 is no longer an issue. But you still have to get rid of either the rear exhaust fan or live without being able to fit an OD in in the OD cages when using a 360 or 280.... the hoses have to go somewhere









I manage to get the X60 in the roof of an ARC MIDI (R1) with some "brute force", others have used a hacksaw/dremel. It became all a bit tight and the order in which to install things became a bit "interesting".. put the rear fan in after the X60 in the roof, which you had to slide in at angle before position for bolting down, then the RAM, then tighten the bolts on the rear fan, etc.. all this without dropping something on the MB....having 3 hands would be a benefit









I haven't bothered with the front, because on the R1 you can not remove the bottom 3.5" drive cage without drilling out the rivets and cutting off the horizontal bracket. Again, in the R2 this has been corrected.

Now, i dont know how all of the above translates to a MINI... Fractal says 240 or 360 in the roof (if you remove ODD for a 360). My guess is that a 280 will fit if you widen the cage with some brute force or cut out about a square inch from to top ODD cage... There ARE pictures of that somewhere in this thread.


----------



## joeh4384

Two of my rigs use Fractal cases. I have a Arc Midi R2 build for my main PC. I am very happy with both although the node is a tight squeeze even with a short PSU with a big GPU.

Main build - http://pcpartpicker.com/b/dnxrxr

Then I also have a node ITX build - http://pcpartpicker.com/b/psRBD3


----------



## DrockinWV

Hey guys great group here that I would like to join! I have a Fractal Design R4 with H100i mounted inside on the top vents, I have recently thought about a CLC or some type of water cooling for my GPU with possible SLI in the future. Has anyone with this case done this before, I would just like to see some pictures of what it looks like after being done and what all went into this type of instal. Any help is appreciated!


----------



## OTHG_ChefTreb

The longer I have my Midi R2 the more I like it. Fractal Designs CS has been great to me. The power button quit working and all it took was a single email and had a response within an hour and anew one by the end of the week.


----------



## dredeziel1

New Look..Satin Nickel.


----------



## hfernandes

Can someone do me a favor?
Please, measure the exact size of Arc mini R2 window.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Doc Zinger

I got 10 and 5/8" wide by 11 and 11/16" high. If you want metric someone else will have to do it.


----------



## hfernandes

Thank you so much.








Converting from inch to millimeters we have: 254mm wide by 279mm high.

Metric
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc Zinger*
> 
> I got 10 and 5/8" wide by 11 and 11/16" high. If you want metric someone else will have to do it.


----------



## hfernandes

Joining the club!
Just arrived.


----------



## Doc Zinger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc Zinger*
> 
> Just got my first Fractal case, a mini R2. It looks like the love child between my Cooler Master 840ATCS build and my Corsair 650D build, how could I resist?
> 
> Not sure WTH I need another computer, but guess that isn't a very good reason not to build another one. Am trying to get a parts list together and get started, thinking about building around a ASUS Gryphon z87 mobo with the armor kit, and make selections that match that style and color layout.


Finally got this one done, it was one that had to be done under the radar so to speak.

Most of what I did on this build was on the cheap, I don't need another super machine but just liked this case so much I had to build something with it. I chose most of the stuff by cost and what looked good.

Mobo; Asus z87 Gryphon with armor kit
CPU; Intel i5-4670K
Mem; G Skull Sniper 4x4 16mg
SSD; Samsung 840 Evo 240mg
HDD; WD 1.5 TBx2
CPU cooler; Corsair H80i
Video; Gigabyte 7870 x 2 (these seemed to have the best stock cooling)
PSU; Corsair TX950

I added 2 Fractal fans a 120 and 140 to go with the ones that came with the case. The 120s mounted in front case bay and the 140s up top, with 1 120 on the floor. Used the fractal fans to save money and they look ok in this set up.

A few pics: Last pic show how great the difference is to my CM ATCS840 case build, sorta like a Mini-Me!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc Zinger*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Doc Zinger*
> 
> Just got my first Fractal case, a mini R2. It looks like the love child between my Cooler Master 840ATCS build and my Corsair 650D build, how could I resist?
> 
> Not sure WTH I need another computer, but guess that isn't a very good reason not to build another one. Am trying to get a parts list together and get started, thinking about building around a ASUS Gryphon z87 mobo with the armor kit, and make selections that match that style and color layout.
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got this one done, it was one that had to be done under the radar so to speak.
> 
> Most of what I did on this build was on the cheap, I don't need another super machine but just liked this case so much I had to build something with it. I chose most of the stuff by cost and what looked good.
> 
> Mobo; Asus z87 Gryphon with armor kit
> CPU; Intel i5-4670K
> Mem; G Skull Sniper 4x4 16mg
> SSD; Samsung 840 Evo 240mg
> HDD; WD 1.5 TBx2
> CPU cooler; Corsair H80i
> Video; Gigabyte 7870 x 2 (these seemed to have the best stock cooling)
> PSU; Corsair TX950
> 
> I added 2 Fractal fans a 120 and 140 to go with the ones that came with the case. The 120s mounted in front case bay and the 140s up top, with 1 120 on the floor. Used the fractal fans to save money and they look ok in this set up.
> 
> A few pics: Last pic show how great the difference is to my CM ATCS840 case build, sorta like a Mini-Me!
Click to expand...

Nice build. I see it is quite cluttered. Remove the top HDD cage and see about pulling cables behind mobo.
You might not use all the cables, maybe a modular or semi-modular 650w PSU. Which is all you need on your system, as you wont see more than 380w max. A PSU with thin cables will help the clutter.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207031


----------



## Doc Zinger

Thanks for your comments, but in person it looks a lot more organized, I wanted to pack as much stuff as I could into the case to see if it would cool ok, and do as well as a much much larger case.

Not sure the power supply you suggested would be any smaller in size?

Anyway I've got this set up looking about as good as I'm going to get it as far as I see.


----------



## hfernandes

Done!
After several hours I finished the installation.

Components ready:


Cable Management (too many cables + too long PSU cables! Personal note: next time, buy a full modular PSU)


Installed:


LED installation:




Done:





I have ordered a sleeved white cables but will take around 60 days to arrive.

Additional modification in my PSU (fan replacement):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I replaced the noisy TT fan by a 120mm Fractal Silent Series R2.
I had to mod the 2-pin connector in order to connect the 3-pin fan.







Hope you guys like it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc Zinger*
> 
> Thanks for your comments, but in person it looks a lot more organized, I wanted to pack as much stuff as I could into the case to see if it would cool ok, and do as well as a much much larger case.
> 
> Not sure the power supply you suggested would be any smaller in size?
> 
> Anyway I've got this set up looking about as good as I'm going to get it as far as I see.


The PSU you use only the cables that you need. With your PSU, every cable is connected.
To use less cables on your current PSU, put the SSD in the lower HDD cage.
Arc Mini can do very well, if the cables are blocking the front top fan.
As in my system which is the Midi R2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hfernandes*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Done!
> After several hours I finished the installation.
> 
> Components ready:
> 
> 
> Cable Management (too many cables + too long PSU cables! Personal note: next time, buy a full modular PSU)
> 
> 
> Installed:
> 
> 
> LED installation:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have ordered a sleeved white cables but will take around 60 days to arrive.
> 
> Additional modification in my PSU (fan replacement):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I replaced the noisy TT fan by a 120mm Fractal Silent Series R2.
> I had to mod the 2-pin connector in order to connect the 3-pin fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you guys like it.


Nicely done. If you can move the front fan up a spot. Also the plastic rail under the ODD can be removed.


----------



## Sfirculitu

How can i put 2 120mm fans in front?


----------



## falcon26

I finally finished mine. Added a MSI 780 TI and 2 120MM Sharkoon Blade Fans in Red  Dead quiet PC and great temps all around....


----------



## hfernandes

Thanks!
In fact this front fan is defective. When ON (even in 5V or 7V) it makes a lot of noise. I turned it off.
I'm getting a new one so I will replace it. It will be installed in top spot.

Thanks for the tip about the plastic rail. I will remove as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nicely done. If you can move the front fan up a spot. Also the plastic rail under the ODD can be removed.


----------



## Cozmo85

Does anyone know which 280mm all in ones will fit in the arc min r2? Im confused about 15mm vs 20mm spacing as well as thickness requirements.


----------



## mitchcook420

Some really nice builds in this thread! Ill be sure to post my Arc Midi R2 when it is done


----------



## dredeziel1

Added two more 120 Noise Blocker fans to the front 240 rad for push/pull..I have a 120 EK-120 rad still in box. You guys think i should add it?


----------



## s3nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> 
> Added two more 120 Noise Blocker fans to the front 240 rad for push/pull..I have a 120 EK-120 rad still in box. You guys think i should add it?


well its a shame to let it do nothing.


----------



## joeh4384

Nice builds, here is my Arc-Midi


----------



## tongerks

Hi sharing my arc mini r2 from philippines
specs:
i5 2500k
g1 sniper m3
2x4gb gskill ares 1600cl7
1x2tb WD black caviar
1x3tb WD red
sapphire r9 280x
rm 650w


----------



## dredeziel1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Hi sharing my arc mini r2 from philippines
> specs:
> i5 2500k
> g1 sniper m3
> 2x4gb gskill ares 1600cl7
> 1x2tb WD black caviar
> 1x3tb WD red
> sapphire r9 280x
> rm 650w


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> Hi sharing my arc mini r2 from philippines
> specs:
> i5 2500k
> g1 sniper m3
> 2x4gb gskill ares 1600cl7
> 1x2tb WD black caviar
> 1x3tb WD red
> sapphire r9 280x
> rm 650w


Nice and clean..Good job


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goor*
> 
> The projekt is not finished jet. The empty 5.25 bays are waiting for a nice fan control display.
> One videocard is enough for me, but its good to have an option for a second one


The mini or midi give the same functionality, why overpay for something you can get for cheaper?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dredeziel1*
> 
> 
> Added two more 120 Noise Blocker fans to the front 240 rad for push/pull..I have a 120 EK-120 rad still in box. You guys think i should add it?


No, it won't decrease your temperatures and will just add more restriction to the loop.


----------



## mitchcook420

Anyone that is using (and also having a great choice in a case)







the Arc Midi what is your fan airflow setup like with regarding the top front fan above the 5.25" drives?

I'm planning to do this with my H105


----------



## reset1101

dredeziel1, which NB fans have you added for pull? Im looking for a pull fan, some NB make aerodynamic noise when set on pull and Im a silence freak, so Im very interested on your model and experience with it.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> Anyone that is using (and also having a great choice in a case)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the Arc Midi what is your fan airflow setup like with regarding the top front fan above the 5.25" drives?
> 
> I'm planning to do this with my H105


Take a look at my system. Not running bottom fan, in my system not needed. H105 can run in push/pull on top.


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Take a look at my system.


Great looking system









I got 2 blue NZXT 140mm Highflow for the front intake, then the rest will be stock for now. Heard great things on those Noctua fans









On a totally different note, shouldn't you have the PSU taking in cold air from the bottom instead of inside your case like how you have it? That is why it has a dust filter on the bottom.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> Great looking system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 2 blue NZXT 140mm Highflow for the front intake, then the rest will be stock for now. Heard great things on those Noctua fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a totally different note, shouldn't you have the PSU taking in cold air from the bottom instead of inside your case like how you have it? That is why it has a dust filter on the bottom.


The PSU orientation makes no difference on temps. Most good quality PSU, the fan will not spin if it is under certain load. Mine is at 300w, after that the fan will spin.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> Anyone that is using (and also having a great choice in a case)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the Arc Midi what is your fan airflow setup like with regarding the top front fan above the 5.25" drives?
> 
> I'm planning to do this with my H105


I have almost the same set up as you do. I have Fractal Design R4 and H100i on top of my case, set up as intake. It was originally set up for exhaust, but found that I get a little better temps on my CPU with the cooler air from the intake. I also replaced the stock Corsair fans with 2 Noctua F12s (soon buying 2 more for push/pull). I have a bottom intake fan as well which brings in a little more cool air onto my GPU. All and all Ive been decently happy with the air flow in my case, temps dont seem to get too high, but definitely a little cooler with the H100i set up as intake verses exhaust.


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> The PSU orientation makes no difference on temps.


I just think it would be better to have the PSU sucking in cold air from outside the case rather than hot air from inside especially if your GPU blows hot air into the case just to have your PSU suck it up and heat up the internal components more than they should. Just my 2 cents








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I have almost the same set up as you do. I have Fractal Design R4 and H100i on top of my case, set up as intake. It was originally set up for exhaust, but found that I get a little better temps on my CPU with the cooler air from the intake. I also replaced the stock Corsair fans with 2 Noctua F12s (soon buying 2 more for push/pull). I have a bottom intake fan as well which brings in a little more cool air onto my GPU. All and all Ive been decently happy with the air flow in my case, temps dont seem to get too high, but definitely a little cooler with the H100i set up as intake verses exhaust.


I have all my parts to make the big switch over from my current setup. I appreciate the advice, I was also thinking if I could get a 140mm fan filter for the rear and having that intake. By the looks of things I will have some experimenting to do









I'm doing this as my first build log so feel free to check it out









http://www.overclock.net/t/1497831/build-log-code-blu-i5/0_50


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> I just think it would be better to have the PSU sucking in cold air from outside the case rather than hot air from inside especially if your GPU blows hot air into the case just to have your PSU suck it up and heat up the internal components more than they should. Just my 2 cents


Heat do not blow down towards the PSU from the GPU. The fans blow directly towards the top.
If the fan is not spinning, then no intake will happen on the PSU. The fan is not powerful enough to do any massive changes in temps. This is different when the PSU is on the top of the case.


----------



## dfa08

my first time watercooling what do you think ?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dfa08*
> 
> my first time watercooling what do you think ?


You don't need that much radspace for a gpu+cpu compo. One 360 or 420 rad would be enough. Plus it will cause unnecessary restriction in the loop and will make it look less clean.


----------



## dfa08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> You don't need that much radspace for a gpu+cpu compo. One 360 or 420 rad would be enough. Plus it will cause unnecessary restriction in the loop and will make it look less clean.


i'm gonna install a 2nd gpu later on thats why and add a d5 pump


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dfa08*
> 
> my first time watercooling what do you think ?


Looks good!!!


----------



## Nemesis429

Will the U14-S fit inside the Fractal Arc Mini R2?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dfa08*
> 
> i'm gonna install a 2nd gpu later on thats why and add a d5 pump


Even for SLI you only need 360+240 and definitiely a second pump will be a waste of money as one is powerful enough to drive the whole loop unless you go dual loop.


----------



## dfa08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Even for SLI you only need 360+240 and definitiely a second pump will be a waste of money as one is powerful enough to drive the whole loop unless you go dual loop.


i'm gonna take away my noisy phobya pump and install a d5 instead. but still more radiators more cooling.


----------



## athlon 64

Here's mine arc mini r2








The last time i posted in this subject i had a define r4. Great case but it was too big for me.







4670k
gigabyte z87m-d3h
2x8GB kingston HyperX
windforce x3 GTX770 2GB
Wd green 2TB + wd green 1TB + seagate 1TB
Samsung EVO 500GB (in the back)
Corsair ax850
Audigy SE


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Nice rig. I would have kept the drive cage to hide the cables though.

I also went from an R4 to an Arc Mini R2.

I need to remember to take and post pictures of mine in here. It's complete but I don't have a decent camera and I don't want to post phone pictures.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Nice rig. I would have kept the drive cage to hide the cables though.
> 
> I also went from an R4 to an Arc Mini R2.
> 
> I need to remember to take and post pictures of mine in here. It's complete but I don't have a decent camera and I don't want to post phone pictures.


It looked a lot cleaner to me without the cage so i removed it. Witch cables btw? I did my best to hide everything.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Top right, the ones coming down from the front i/o. Still looks good.


----------



## athlon 64

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Top right, the ones coming down from the front i/o. Still looks good.


Oh yea. But they are not very visible and they are black so i'm happy. Could try to hide them even more...


----------



## RnRollie

A piece of black plexi or even cardboard cut to size will hide them easily


----------



## sigilens

Today i made some changes to my Define R4. I switched My H100i from the top to the front side and made a Push-Pull set up of it , had to move the hdd case a little to the right for it .
Finally i removed the plastic upper hdd bracket slider, bought a small phillips head for it.
And made a cover for my psu cables out of cardboard with black wrapping.

Hope you all like it.

Before :



After :


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> Today i made some changes to my Define R4. I switched My H100i from the top to the front side and made a Push-Pull set up of it , had to move the hdd case a little to the right for it .
> Finally i removed the plastic upper hdd bracket slider, bought a small phillips head for it.
> And made a cover for my psu cables out of cardboard with black wrapping.
> 
> Hope you all like it.
> 
> Before :
> 
> 
> 
> After :


I have been thinking of doing this with mine, what kind of temps are you getting on your CPU now?


----------



## sigilens

I will do some tests later on,just started it for the first time a couple of minutes ago.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> I will do some tests later on,just started it for the first time a couple of minutes ago.


Awesome, let us know how it goes!


----------



## sigilens

It is strange, i normally had a idle cpu temp of 39 but now it's 41.
I have the 2 top fans and the back fan as intake and the h100i as out take.
Am i doing something wrong here?


----------



## gdubc

I would switch them so rad is intake. I would probably go with just the rear exhaust and all intake personally, but def switch the rad.


----------



## DrockinWV

Maybe top exhaust back exhaust bottom intake and h100i intake

I have also heard using 2 different fans on the h100i can cause bad air flow. Maybe try to stack your Noctuas and do the same with the Corsairs until you get 2 more Noctuas


----------



## mitchcook420

I have yet to mount my H105, but I think I'm gonna have it exhaust on the top on my Arc Midi R2 as I can't have it intake from the front due to me having to use all the HDD cages.


----------



## Latezen

Hello.
How tall Pump&reservoir combo i can put in Fractal design arc mini r2 under graphics card(with waterblock).
And how tall is that space between ram slots and top of case.

Thanks


----------



## sigilens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Maybe top exhaust back exhaust bottom intake and h100i intake
> 
> I have also heard using 2 different fans on the h100i can cause bad air flow. Maybe try to stack your Noctuas and do the same with the Corsairs until you get 2 more Noctuas


The shop where I bought them maybe have 2 more Noctau's in stock, I'm going there this afternoon.


----------



## JR1de57

Just got my node 804 time to start piecing my build together and figuring out cooling plans...


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Latezen*
> 
> Hello.
> How tall Pump&reservoir combo i can put in Fractal design arc mini r2 under graphics card(with waterblock).
> And how tall is that space between ram slots and top of case.
> 
> Thanks


Pump/res combo:
at least the height (thickness) of a PSU , probably an inch more than that

Space between Ram slot and roof... :
infinity, since the RAM on your MB might be in Nepal and not on the top edge of the MB
The space between roof & MB edge is 55 to 60 mm - this space has been "optimised" for a 30mm rad +25.4mm fan

All this info is available from the Fractal site


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> The shop where I bought them maybe have 2 more Noctau's in stock, I'm going there this afternoon.


I would go ahead and get those if I were you, I think the fans will work better together being the same design verses using a Cosair fan stacked on a Noctua fan.


----------



## timShallahbim

Node 804 and all the electric innards arrived...all built and undergoing prime95. This is my first build so am understandably nervous!

Not much more to tell beyond what's in my rig signature, other than that I can tell you that it appears to run on some form of electricity.

Pictures are forthcoming. Love this little case!


----------



## Latezen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Pump/res combo:
> at least the height (thickness) of a PSU , probably an inch more than that
> 
> Space between Ram slot and roof... :
> infinity, since the RAM on your MB might be in Nepal and not on the top edge of the MB
> The space between roof & MB edge is 55 to 60 mm - this space has been "optimised" for a 30mm rad +25.4mm fan
> 
> All this info is available from the Fractal site


Thanks. and i will check Fractals site for more info


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> It is strange, i normally had a idle cpu temp of 39 but now it's 41.
> I have the 2 top fans and the back fan as intake and the h100i as out take.
> Am i doing something wrong here?


Have the front radiator fans be an intake so they are pulling fresh air from the front of the case, then exhaust everything out the top and back.

I have my h100i setup this way in my r2 mini. Works great.


----------



## RnRollie

^^^this
floor & front intake (filters!)
top & rear exhaust (unfiltered)


----------



## JMatzelle303

Does the NZXT Sentry Mix 2 work well with this case?

http://www.thinkcomputers.org/reviews/nzxt_sentry_mix/front.jpg

That fan controller


----------



## RnRollie

meh, it'll probably look good, but i cant understand why anybody would want to pay $35,- for a fan controller if you can put that money into a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter and a couple of PWM fans


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMatzelle303*
> 
> Does the NZXT Sentry Mix 2 work well with this case?
> 
> http://www.thinkcomputers.org/reviews/nzxt_sentry_mix/front.jpg
> 
> That fan controller


Had that controller, hated it. Felt cheap to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> meh, it'll probably look good, but i cant understand why anybody would want to pay $35,- for a fan controller if you can put that money into a Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter and a couple of PWM fans


Totally agree, went from a Lamptron FC5V2 to the Swiftech splitter, would never go back.


----------



## sigilens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Have the front radiator fans be an intake so they are pulling fresh air from the front of the case, then exhaust everything out the top and back.
> 
> I have my h100i setup this way in my r2 mini. Works great.


I have changed it and already got a 10 degrees difference












and the noise is a lot less than the stock corsair fans.


----------



## JMatzelle303

Crap i only payed like $10 for the NZXT Sentry Mix 2 lol brand new


----------



## DA77

Hi all, i need some help with this case.

Is it possible to remove plastic cover for front fans ? Sometimes when its quite warm i like to open the door so that that fans can move more air, but the annoying thing is plastic cover between door and fans which IMO serves no other purpose then to annoy me









Also i know its possible to mount SSD behind the motherboard, but is it possible to mount HDD on bottom of the case without hard drive cage ? I want to remove it for better air flow.

edit: forgot to write, i have define r4


----------



## sigilens

You can remove the front raster without a problem.It is made for it to come of .


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DA77*
> 
> Hi all, i need some help with this case.
> 
> Is it possible to remove plastic cover for front fans ? Sometimes when its quite warm i like to open the door so that that fans can move more air, but the annoying thing is plastic cover between door and fans which IMO serves no other purpose then to annoy me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also i know its possible to mount SSD behind the motherboard, but is it possible to mount HDD on bottom of the case without hard drive cage ? I want to remove it for better air flow.
> 
> edit: forgot to write, i have define r4


nowadays, you only need SSD since Seagate sells wireless harddrives









or you could use 2.5" laptop drives, which you can also hide behind the MB


----------



## malzmidx

Any room for Fractal Design node 804 people? Or is there another club for node?


----------



## DA77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> You can remove the front raster without a problem.It is made for it to come of .


How ?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> nowadays, you only need SSD since Seagate sells wireless harddrives
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or you could use 2.5" laptop drives, which you can also hide behind the MB


I know about 2.5" drives, but i already have 3.5" WD blue


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *malzmidx*
> 
> Any room for Fractal Design node 804 people? Or is there another club for node?


Of course. Any Fractal case is fine.


----------



## malzmidx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Of course. Any Fractal case is fine.


Having trouble with the signature. What did I do wrong?


----------



## Dsrt

Hi, my case is 2 years old Fractal Design R4. Im running 2x r9-290x DirectCU II OC's. The problem is that my Upper GFX card VRM 1# goes up to 97c during Heaven 4.0. Im running stock settings, with a custom fanprofile in Afterburner.
Card 1 core ~88'c @ 73% fanspeed, 97c VRM 1#
Card 2 core ~80'c @ 73% fanspeed, 89c VRM 1#
CPU temps are fine.


Heres a paint picture of my fan setup.

Exhaust fans are Fractal Designs Silent Series R2 140mm's, 2 intakefans @front are 140mm Silent Series R2 fans. Sidepanel intake fan is 140mm Antec fan.
Would I see better temps buying some really good fans (like noctuas that cost +25€ per piece) or Should I just go for some bigger case that has better airflow than this case?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dsrt*
> 
> Hi, my case is 2 years old Fractal Design R4. Im running 2x r9-290x DirectCU II OC's. The problem is that my Upper GFX card VRM 1# goes up to 97c during Heaven 4.0. Im running stock settings, with a custom fanprofile in Afterburner.
> Card 1 core ~88'c @ 73% fanspeed, 97c VRM 1#
> Card 2 core ~80'c @ 73% fanspeed, 89c VRM 1#
> CPU temps are fine.
> 
> 
> Heres a paint picture of my fan setup.
> 
> Exhaust fans are Fractal Designs Silent Series R2 140mm's, 2 intakefans @front are 140mm Silent Series R2 fans. Sidepanel intake fan is 140mm Antec fan.
> Would I see better temps buying some really good fans (like noctuas that cost +25€ per piece) or Should I just go for some bigger case that has better airflow than this case?


With the exception of a SanAce 140x38 there is a serious lack of "good" 140mm fans, even the Noctua's are not that good (and are Fugly also).

You'll probably get netter results with putting in decent to good 120mm fans compared to 140mm fans.
Most 140mm fans are of the lots-of-air-with-little-noise-but-also-little-pressure type. And you need something that can actually FORCE air between the GPU's. Corsair SP120 fans would be a start. The Silverstone AP141 or FHP141 are an option. But if you are going there, you better get the real thing:

https://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2515
https://db.sanyodenki.co.jp/product_db_e/coolingfan/dcfan/dc_fan_detail.php?master_id=2514

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dsrt*
> 
> Hi, my case is 2 years old Fractal Design R4. Im running 2x r9-290x DirectCU II OC's. The problem is that my Upper GFX card VRM 1# goes up to 97c during Heaven 4.0. Im running stock settings, with a custom fanprofile in Afterburner.
> Card 1 core ~88'c @ 73% fanspeed, 97c VRM 1#
> Card 2 core ~80'c @ 73% fanspeed, 89c VRM 1#
> CPU temps are fine.
> 
> 
> Heres a paint picture of my fan setup.
> 
> Exhaust fans are Fractal Designs Silent Series R2 140mm's, 2 intakefans @front are 140mm Silent Series R2 fans. Sidepanel intake fan is 140mm Antec fan.
> Would I see better temps buying some really good fans (like noctuas that cost +25€ per piece) or Should I just go for some bigger case that has better airflow than this case?


The top card will always run hotter. As you do benchmark testing cards get hotter than normal usage. If you want to get lower temps, you have to look at watercooling.
Make the side exhaust and use the bottom as intake.

Your ambient temps will affect your internal temps. Getting a bigger case will not give you a difference you want.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> With the exception of a SanAce 140x38 there is a serious lack of "good" 140mm fans, even the Noctua's are not that good (and are Fugly also).
> 
> You'll probably get netter results with putting in decent to good 120mm fans compared to 140mm fans.
> Most 140mm fans are of the lots-of-air-with-little-noise-but-also-little-pressure type. And you need something that can actually FORCE air between the GPU's. Corsair SP120 fans would be a start. The Silverstone AP141 or FHP141 are an option. But if you are going there, you better get the real thing:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_316_850&products_id=31238


There is good 140mm fans. I use the Noctua myself, they perform very good in my R2. SP120 are not good.
$50 for the San Ace, waste of money and he will not notice that much of a difference in temp, from stock fans.


----------



## Disabled

Can I put a Corsair H100i or H110 on top of the Define R4 with a MSI Z77-G45 mobo? I'm afraid it won't fit cause of the heatsink above the CPU socket.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Can I put a Corsair H100i or H110 on top of the Define R4 with a MSI Z77-G45 mobo? I'm afraid it won't fit cause of the heatsink above the CPU socket.


I have the Fractal Design R4 with MSI Z87-G45 mobo and could barely fit the H100i on the top of my case. If you want to get the H110, I would take out the HDD cages and place it up front as intake, hope this helps


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Can I put a Corsair H100i or H110 on top of the Define R4 with a MSI Z77-G45 mobo? I'm afraid it won't fit cause of the heatsink above the CPU socket.


If you do not have the R4 yet, get the Midi R2 instead if you want to add watercooling.


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If you do not have the R4 yet, get the Midi R2 instead if you want to add watercooling.


Will that have enough room on the top? I'm still trying to find a case so I can look into the Midi R2.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Will that have enough room on the top? I'm still trying to find a case so I can look into the Midi R2.


Look at my system, H105 in Push/Pull.


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Look at my system, H105 in Push/Pull.


The Midi R2 does look nice, but would i have to go with 140mm AIO to use those 5.25" bays? On your build it looks like you don't have much room for them.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> The Midi R2 does look nice, but would i have to go with 140mm AIO to use those 5.25" bays? On your build it looks like you don't have much room for them.


H110 will not fit on top, due to ODD in the way and will be blocked by the 8pin EPS connector.


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> H110 will not fit on top, due to ODD in the way and will be blocked by the 8pin EPS connector.


Okay thanks!


----------



## zyg0tic

Hi.

I have had an R4 since the start of the year. I was very happy with it until upgrading my storage. The anti-vibration was very ineffective in reducing the vibration noise of a 4TB WD Black. I had previously a 2TB Samsung and 3TB Seagate and they were both quiet. But introducing the Black seemed to have put everything out of whack. 2 drives was tolerable, but a 3rd made horrible resonance/vibration noise.

So, after trying multiple configurations of drives, both cages in, only one cage, using Antec silicone grommets, etc etc... I finally resorted to fully elastic suspension for all three drives.



The elastic is all a bit messy. but it works. Since this first attempt Ive reconsidered how I could do it better, simpler, faster. So I'm thinking of redoing it and producing a tutorial. I'll post it here and/or on SPCR and OCAU.

The R4 is such a great case, but the hdd cages seem unprepared for the heavier 3tb and 4tb 7200rpm drives. Mine certainly was anyway.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Okay thanks!


Actually... depending on the exact position of the EPS ... and if willing to apply some "brute force", it *might* be possible to get it in


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zyg0tic*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I have had an R4 since the start of the year. I was very happy with it until upgrading my storage. The anti-vibration was very ineffective in reducing the vibration noise of a 4TB WD Black. I had previously a 2TB Samsung and 3TB Seagate and they were both quiet. But introducing the Black seemed to have put everything out of whack. 2 drives was tolerable, but a 3rd made horrible resonance/vibration noise.
> 
> So, after trying multiple configurations of drives, both cages in, only one cage, using Antec silicone grommets, etc etc... I finally resorted to fully elastic suspension for all three drives.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The elastic is all a bit messy. but it works. Since this first attempt Ive reconsidered how I could do it better, simpler, faster. So I'm thinking of redoing it and producing a tutorial. I'll post it here and/or on SPCR and OCAU.
> 
> The R4 is such a great case, but the hdd cages seem unprepared for the heavier 3tb and 4tb 7200rpm drives. Mine certainly was anyway.


a bit like this maybe?



OF course, trading in the drives for a handful of samsung MZ-7TE1T0BW would also resolve it
(not cheap though)


----------



## zyg0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> a bit like this maybe?
> 
> 
> 
> OF course, trading in the drives for a handful of samsung MZ-7TE1T0BW would also resolve it
> (not cheap though)


You mean 840 Pro SSD? Lol, yes not cheap! I have a 1TB of those on my "maybe some day" wishlist. And that wouldnt resolve it really because I need more capacity.

In that photo you posted there is a generous amount of clearance between the drive and the sides of the drive bay. In the drive cage of the R4 there is hardly any space on the sides of a 3.5" drive, so the elastic presses right up against the side and the drive and the vibration still carries through. Its still a good idea because it does reduce the vibration, but not enough to silence the drives Im using.


----------



## RnRollie

The MZ-7TE1T0BW is a 1T SSD







, just need a hand full of them









Of course, since seagate is now making WireLess Harddrives, there is no longer a need to have a harddrive in the PC. Actually, since consumer oriented NAS, there is no longer a need to have harddrives in the PC.

The pic showed using a 3.5 in 5.25 bay of course (or maybe it was a 2.5 laptop drive in a 3.5 bay?)

If you want to use the space where the 3.5 bays reside, you have to build a slightly wider custom frame.
But there are lots of possibilities.. like even on their side, , lenghtwise in a 3 side-by-side; since modern drives aren't that fuzzy anymore about their orientation.


----------



## lowfat

Finished off my Define NAS today.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-16-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-15-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-17-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-18-1.jpg.html


----------



## coelacanth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished off my Define NAS today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-16-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-15-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-17-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-18-1.jpg.html


The SATA power on the HDs is custom made? I want something like that. Very slick.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> The SATA power on the HDs is custom made? I want something like that. Very slick.


Yes I did it myself. Very easy to do if you have crimping tools.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished off my Define NAS today.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-16-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-15-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-17-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Define/export-18-1.jpg.html


Nice build !


----------



## Dsrt

Painted my black Define R4 with white matte spray. Waiting for new phanteks 140mm fan and grill for the sidepanel


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dsrt*
> 
> 
> Painted my black Define R4 with white matte spray. Waiting for new phanteks 140mm fan and grill for the sidepanel


----------



## zyg0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Finished off my Define NAS today.


Is it quiet though? What hard drives?

And those power cables are great. Recommend any tutorial?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zyg0tic*
> 
> Is it quiet though?


Good question. Board isn't powering on.








Quote:


> What hard drives?


Mix of Seagate, Toshiba, and WD. 8x3TB.
Quote:


> And those power cables are great. Recommend any tutorial?


This probably is a good place to start.


----------



## lowfat

Well I guess there is nothing wrong w/ the system. It is the power switch on the case that doesn't work.


----------



## SclerosiS

Hi,

Someone has an experience with fitting a h220 into core 3000? Will it fit top? Cpu and Mobo are fx8350+gb 990fxa-ud5. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Onyxian

My Arc Midi R2 should be coming in later this week,







oh yes. It will be marvelous.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Someone has an experience with fitting a h220 into core 3000? Will it fit top? Cpu and Mobo are fx8350+gb 990fxa-ud5. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.


There is not enough clearance to fit the Core 3000.
Arc Midi R2 will fit the H220. The tubes has to be facing the ODB. Part of the tubing and fitting will touch the wall of the bay.


----------



## SclerosiS

Just opened and saw for what you are speaking. So if i want to fit it i will have to cut the bottom of the ODD bays or remove them completely, hope they are with rivets. Or that way is not working? Front is impossible cause one fan in front is 120mm and top front is 140mm. Even with adapter 140 to 120 and putting a 120 one front top will not work. Last option is an 120mm aio, corsair or?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Just opened and saw for what you are speaking. So if i want to fit it i will have to cut the bottom of the ODD bays or remove them completely, hope they are with rivets. Or that way is not working? Front is impossible cause one fan in front is 120mm and top front is 140mm. Even with adapter 140 to 120 and putting a 120 one front top will not work. Last option is an 120mm aio, corsair or?


You do not have to cut anything or remove. It will fit as is. Just a little tight.


----------



## SclerosiS

So, it will fit top but will be tight. Thats i wanted to know. Thank you. Soon will pull the trigger on it.


----------



## Dsrt

I know this might been asked like 1000 times in this thread, but I cant find answer for this









Which one delivers better airflow for my case, option 1 or option 2.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dsrt*
> 
> I know this might been asked like 1000 times in this thread, but I cant find answer for this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which one delivers better airflow for my case, option 1 or option 2.


That would be based on your testing with the temps and airflow.
Side fan you can try exhaust too see how that works.


----------



## RnRollie

unless you are ducting, option two is really not the best of solutions


----------



## locx

My Arc Midi R2 is ready for pick up! Only thing is I wont be home until next Monday. Oh well, at least it's not going anywhere


----------



## Disabled

I've ordered a Midi R2 today and should be arriving tomorrow!
Swapping my build from the Thermaltake V3 Black Edition for the Midi R2.
There's still 2 more things I'm looking to buy soon which includes a H100i or H105 depending on how much clearance I have.
The other is some LED lighting, but I'm not sure which brand to get yet. Can anyone recommend a good brand to buy LED? I'm looking for some blue lighting.


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> I've ordered a Midi R2 today and should be arriving tomorrow!
> Swapping my build from the Thermaltake V3 Black Edition for the Midi R2.
> There's still 2 more things I'm looking to buy soon which includes a H100i or H105 depending on how much clearance I have.
> The other is some LED lighting, but I'm not sure which brand to get yet. Can anyone recommend a good brand to buy LED? I'm looking for some blue lighting.


The Midi R2 has offset mounts on the top for rads which makes clearance awesome for even the tallest of motherboard heatsinks and ram









I have had a 2m NZXT blue LED kit in my rig for awhile now and I would recommend it


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> The Midi R2 has offset mounts on the top for rads which makes clearance awesome for even the tallest of motherboard heatsinks and ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had a 2m NZXT blue LED kit in my rig for awhile now and I would recommend it


Looks nice, but now I'm wondering how I will be able to cable manage that?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Looks nice, but now I'm wondering how I will be able to cable manage that?


Plenty of room in the back for cables to go.
Have a look at my system, shows the room on top with a H105 in Push/Pull. That is 85mm of clearance, not not touching anything on the mobo/


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Plenty of room in the back for cables to go.
> Have a look at my system, shows the room on top with a H105 in Push/Pull. That is 85mm of clearance, not not touching anything on the mobo/


Well I mean for the LED power for the NZXT blue led kit or can it be powered from the mobo.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Well I mean for the LED power for the NZXT blue led kit or can it be powered from the mobo.


Think that is connected via molex.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> I've ordered a Midi R2 today and should be arriving tomorrow!
> Swapping my build from the Thermaltake V3 Black Edition for the Midi R2.
> There's still 2 more things I'm looking to buy soon which includes a H100i or H105 depending on how much clearance I have.
> The other is some LED lighting, but I'm not sure which brand to get yet. Can anyone recommend a good brand to buy LED? I'm looking for some blue lighting.


Or try this:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50192365/

comes in RGB









NOTE: There are simpler/cheaper variants of it


----------



## Disabled

Has anyone tried to put a 280mm AIO in their Midi R2? What's the clearance like?
If not I'll just get either a H100i or H105.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Has anyone tried to put a 280mm AIO in their Midi R2? What's the clearance like?
> If not I'll just get either a H100i or H105.


Very very tight, but should fit if you bolt the rad to the roof with the fittings/hose side into the ODD bay, then mount the fans to rad while fiddling with the rear fan at the same time.

Minor brute force to the top ODD bay might be needed









I managed to fit a Kraken X60 in the roof of a ARC MIDI R1 with a selection of curse words & some brute force to the ODD bay.

http://www.nzxt.com/uploads/downloads/manuals/Kraken_Compatibility_Guide_09.4.2013.pdf


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Very very tight, but should fit if you bolt the rad to the roof with the fittings/hose side into the ODD bay, then mount the fans to rad while fiddling with the rear fan at the same time.
> 
> Minor brute force to the top ODD bay might be needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I managed to fit a Kraken X60 in the roof of a ARC MIDI R1 with a selection of curse words & some brute force to the ODD bay.
> 
> http://www.nzxt.com/uploads/downloads/manuals/Kraken_Compatibility_Guide_09.4.2013.pdf


Would you possibly have a picture so I can see cause I'm using both the ODD bays.
Looks like Swiftech is coming out with a new 240mm AIO so maybe I'll wait a bit and see if that's worth it.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Would you possibly have a picture so I can see cause I'm using both the ODD bays.
> Looks like Swiftech is coming out with a new 240mm AIO so maybe I'll wait a bit and see if that's worth it.


I'll see if i can find one








However somewhere (way earlier) in this thread, someone did more or less the same, but he cut a 1" piece out of the ODD.
On the R2 you can take the bays out, so its a lot easier to mod the top bay (bend out or hacksaw it)

Ah the H220X ... it looks very promising and should fit without problems.... but its release has been delayed several times now. The last i've heard is "soon , this month"









UPDATE:

See this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/8000_100#post_20245950

Its a very very tight fit. It may fit without too much fiddling or it may not.
Worst case scenario, you have to bend or cut out the piece marked in the pic.



Because i wanted to keep my rear exhaust fan, i mounted it with the hoses on the ODD side.
Note that you wont be able to put normal/long things in the top ODD , an fan control and such will be ok, a full size BD drive wont. But you still have the ODD bay underneath, so. That's what i've done

.


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> I'll see if i can find one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However somewhere (way earlier) in this thread, someone did more or less the same, but he cut a 1" piece out of the ODD.
> On the R2 you can take the bays out, so its a lot easier to mod the top bay (bend out or hacksaw it)
> 
> Ah the H220X ... it looks very promising and should fit without problems.... but its release has been delayed several times now. The last i've heard is "soon , this month"


Ok thanks!
I still have about a week and half to look for AIO so there's time for you to find one


----------



## 17jotinha




----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very nice and clean setup.


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee*
> 
> Very nice and clean setup.


Thanks.


----------



## mitchcook420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *17jotinha*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


SIck build man

Where did you get the awesome side panel? Can you buy them for the Midi R2?


----------



## 17jotinha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> SIck build man
> 
> Where did you get the awesome side panel? Can you buy them for the Midi R2?


Made by me.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mitchcook420*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> SIck build man
> 
> Where did you get the awesome side panel? Can you buy them for the Midi R2?


I think it is a piece of plexi/acryl cut to size









You can get that probably at Home Depot or other DIY store. If not, you can always order "samples" from http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/shopselect.htm


----------



## Disabled

So I ordered the Swiftech H220X for the Midi R2 so let's see if it fits once I get it. I don't think there will be any problems putting it into the case but only time will tell.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> So I ordered the Swiftech H220X for the Midi R2 so let's see if it fits once I get it. I don't think there will be any problems putting it into the case but only time will tell.


The H220X will fit. It is shorter than H220 my 22mm + 19mm from the tubing.
It is just 247mm wide.


----------



## sobi1984

Hello again from me.. I made an order 2 days ago for the node 804 which will have inside my matx lga 2011 with my 4930k and will give a home for my 8tb hdd finally. Photos to be uploaded when the package received


----------



## locx

It's finally here! Along with some Aerocool DS 140mm fans, can't wait to start building it later.


----------



## DA77

I found a temporary mounting place for my hdd until i find store in Serbia that sells 3.5 to 5.25 adapters :S


----------



## nitroxyl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DA77*
> 
> I found a temporary mounting place for my hdd until i find store in Serbia that sells 3.5 to 5.25 adapters :S


Could I ask how you mounted the 3.5in HDD to the fan area on the bottom? I currently only have a HDD and having it in the hard drive cages seems a bit unnecessary for me. Thanks in advance!


----------



## afokke

is it possible to remove 5.25" bay on define r4


----------



## Destrto

I have a quick question about the fractal node 804's space for a slot loading DVD drive. How is it supposed to eject the disc again if there is no button to push?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> is it possible to remove 5.25" bay on define r4


You have to remove the rivets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick question about the fractal node 804's space for a slot loading DVD drive. How is it supposed to eject the disc again if there is no button to push?


You use windows context menu to eject or the video software


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You have to remove the rivets.
> You use windows context menu to eject or the video software


Ahh ok. I have never used a slim drive or slot loading drive before. So when I saw the 804 had one, I didnt know what to do. haha.. Thanks for the insight.


----------



## DA77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nitroxyl*
> 
> Could I ask how you mounted the 3.5in HDD to the fan area on the bottom? I currently only have a HDD and having it in the hard drive cages seems a bit unnecessary for me. Thanks in advance!


I screwed 2 long screws diagonally trough fan grill since only 2 holes match up and i used 2 rubber thingies (dont know word in English







) for each screw, 1 between HDD and fan grill and 1 between fan grill and screw and then i added 2 more between HDD and fan grill for 2 remaining holes on HDD. HDD is now vibrating less then it was in HDD cage.


----------



## locx

I simply put some anti-slip mat under it and left it there, not ideal I know but I'm not moving it anywhere. It's a lot quieter than without but I still have to experiment with it.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Why not use rubber washers to prop up the HDD so it is not touching the case. This will stop the vibrations and keep airflow under the HDD.


----------



## DA77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Why not use *rubber washers* to prop up the HDD so it is not touching the case. This will stop the vibrations and keep airflow under the HDD.


So thats how its called xD


----------



## Destrto

Does anyone happen to have a few shots of the Node 804 with a full loop installed they wouldnt mind sharing?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Does anyone happen to have a few shots of the Node 804 with a full loop installed they wouldnt mind sharing?


Few all over, from CeBit 2014


----------



## MiiX

Case is looking good, but the PSU side has more "wasted space" than expected from Fractal...
Would love to see some mounting options for for the second HDD cage when using "their" WC solution, sidewaysmounted HDD cage maybe?


----------



## afokke

ordered a Define R4 from Newegg yesterday for $110 + $13 shipping, and the VERY NEXT DAY the price drops by $20 AND there is an extra $10 off promo code for it AND the shipping becomes free. ***









am planning to add/replace fans with Noctua NF-A14 FLX. good choice?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> ordered a Define R4 from Newegg yesterday for $110 + $13 shipping, and the VERY NEXT DAY the price drops by $20 AND there is an extra $10 off promo code for it AND the shipping becomes free. ***
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> am planning to add/replace fans with Noctua NF-A14 FLX. good choice?


Cancel order or contact newegg and see if you can get the deal.
If no, then order a 2nd one and refuse the package from your first order. Then it will be sent back.

You can use Noctua NF-A14 FLX, try the stock fans first.


----------



## locx

That's my little system!


----------



## joeh4384

The DVD drive not being flush would drive me bat **** crazy.


----------



## locx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh4384*
> 
> The DVD drive not being flush would drive me bat **** crazy.


I can move it a bit forward, I just didn't have the time yet. But yeah it annoys me too


----------



## robertparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> ordered a Define R4 from Newegg yesterday for $110 + $13 shipping, and the VERY NEXT DAY the price drops by $20 AND there is an extra $10 off promo code for it AND the shipping becomes free. ***
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> am planning to add/replace fans with Noctua NF-A14 FLX. good choice?


That type of thing drives me crazy. I wish Newegg would just focus on having a relatively lower price all the time and skip some of their promotions. That and artificially manipulating shipping prices to help set the final cost - the color of an item shouldn't matter in how much it costs to ship.


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's my little system!


Looks like my system!


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afokke*
> 
> ordered a Define R4 from Newegg yesterday for $110 + $13 shipping, and the VERY NEXT DAY the price drops by $20 AND there is an extra $10 off promo code for it AND the shipping becomes free. ***
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> am planning to add/replace fans with Noctua NF-A14 FLX. good choice?


I have all Noctua in my case all 14 of them. Quite but ugly


----------



## Disabled

Here's my system! Ordered the Midi R2 last week and had it running, but I was waiting to finish buying everything else for it to post at once!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disabled*
> 
> Here's my system! Ordered the Midi R2 last week and had it running, but I was waiting to finish buying everything else for it to post at once!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hows the H220X working for you? Are you running one HDD, you can move the to the bottom floor and have both front fans clear


----------



## Disabled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Hows the H220X working for you? Are you running one HDD, you can move the to the bottom floor and have both front fans clear


The H220X is working nicely.







I'm running an SSD for booting the OS and some programs. One 1TB seagate barracuda for everything else.


----------



## SeekinRage

So I have to share the build that I completed about a month ago.

I say a month ago because it was a rebuild in this case that I finished about a month ago but I have this case for a little more than 6 months.

So below you will see the pictures that I took of the completed (re)build:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











I hope that you all enjoy the eye candy









Let me know what you all think, cheers!


----------



## chaoscontrol

Hi guys, i just discovered this thread. Got 2 R2 XL's and a Core 3300







Gonna mod a R4 very soon which'll get its own topic!


----------



## DA77

Think im finished with this build, now only waiting for Fractal fans to be available again so i can put one on bottom.




Not the best cable management but it works. Temps for HDD and SSD have increased a bit, but thats to be expected.


----------



## fugo67

Great Canape In Background!!"!


----------



## PCmasteRace

Can this fit the new Kraken x61 280 mm (36 mm thick) radiator with dual set of 25 mm fans in push-pull on top?? (total of 86 mm thickness offset in the Arc XL) Plz respond thanks﻿.
Has anyone measured the top clearance from room to motherboard?


----------



## PCmasteRace

Can the Fractal Design ARC XL fit the new Kraken x61 280 mm (36 mm thick) radiator with dual set of 25 mm fans in push-pull on top?? (total of 86 mm thickness offset in the Arc XL) Plz respond thanks﻿.
Has anyone measured the top clearance from room to motherboard?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCmasteRace*
> 
> Can the Fractal Design ARC XL fit the new Kraken x61 280 mm (36 mm thick) radiator with dual set of 25 mm fans in push-pull on top?? (total of 86 mm thickness offset in the Arc XL) Plz respond thanks﻿.
> Has anyone measured the top clearance from room to motherboard?


This is good review to see if there will be room. Going P/P on the CLC will only get 1-2c difference.
The rad is 27mm thick, not 36mm.


----------



## shanker

Arc Mini R2/ Swiftech H220X


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> 
> Arc Mini R2/ Swiftech H220X


Nice, I would remove the HDD cage completely. Put both SSD in the back and sit the HDD on the bottom with some rubber washers.


----------



## KevGann

Anyone own a Node 304? I'm debating if I should move one of my builds from a arc mini r2 to the node 304. I'll have to get a mitx mobo, but was wondering if the air flow is adequate for a air cooled i5 4670k and gtx 660 (both not overclocked)?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KevGann*
> 
> Anyone own a Node 304? I'm debating if I should move one of my builds from a arc mini r2 to the node 304. I'll have to get a mitx mobo, but was wondering if the air flow is adequate for a air cooled i5 4670k and gtx 660 (both not overclocked)?


Node 304 has 2x 92mm intake and 140mm exhaust. The 660 will pull air from the side vents.
There is room for a good heatsink 165mm height.
The racks that is used you can remove them if you do nor need it to have more clear direct airflow.
If your PSU is not modular, you will have lots of cables around which make it cluttered in there.

Arc mini R2 is a very good case which will have better cooling.


----------



## shanker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice, I would remove the HDD cage completely. Put both SSD in the back and sit the HDD on the bottom with some rubber washers.


I tried that but the SSD plates on the back makes it nearly impossible to route all the cables in the back cleanly.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanker*
> 
> I tried that but the SSD plates on the back makes it nearly impossible to route all the cables in the back cleanly.


Not impossible, just have to manage and route the cables.


----------



## dreameer111

Does anyone know the wattage limit for the front fan controller?
Would I be able to plug in say 6 corsair sp120 fans on the fan controller? (two per lead)


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> Does anyone know the wattage limit for the front fan controller?
> Would I be able to plug in say 6 corsair sp120 fans on the fan controller? (two per lead)


Max is 5w/ch on my Arc Midi R2
If they are PWM version get the Swiftech 8-Way splitter and use Speedfan to control via CPU header.
If 3 pin Phanteks has there fan controller coming soon, which gives 3pin fans PWM control. So you can use Speedfan on CPU header.


----------



## BKinn

Took a slightly better photo of my Node 804 today since my Gene V broke. I can't seem to get rid of the yellow tinge from the lighting. I need to get better lighting for photos or take it outside again.


----------



## Disabled

Here's a night shot of my Midi R2


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> Does anyone know the wattage limit for the front fan controller?
> Would I be able to plug in say 6 corsair sp120 fans on the fan controller? (two per lead)


What case?
R4?

There is no fan controller








All it does is switch the fans between these outputs of the PSU:
GND, 5V, 12V, which results in the three outputs for fans of 5, 7, 12V.
It's only a bunch of cables, connectors and a larger switch with a few switch positions so it cans witch all the 3 lines.
As long as the switch or the cables don't fry you can draw as much as you like. Or you could just hook up the fans to your PSU because it's the same thing the fake controller will do.

I've put some switches through 5A+ even when they are rated 1.5A. I wouldn't really worry about hooking up a few fans to the fake controller.
I don't think you will manage to install so many fans into your case to overload the fake fan controller.

---

Anyone cut out the silly grills on R4? Best approach cut it out?
Especially rear and bottom.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> What case?
> R4?
> 
> There is no fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All it does is switch the fans between these outputs of the PSU:
> GND, 5V, 12V, which results in the three outputs for fans of 5, 7, 12V.
> It's only a bunch of cables, connectors and a larger switch with a few switch positions so it cans witch all the 3 lines.
> As long as the switch or the cables don't fry you can draw as much as you like. Or you could just hook up the fans to your PSU because it's the same thing the fake controller will do.
> 
> I've put some switches through 5A+ even when they are rated 1.5A. I wouldn't really worry about hooking up a few fans to the fake controller.
> I don't think you will manage to install so many fans into your case to overload the fake fan controller.
> 
> ---
> 
> Anyone cut out the silly grills on R4? Best approach cut it out?
> Especially rear and bottom.


What are you talking about fake. It is a fan controller. What do you think one does?
Fan controller = Ability to adjust the speed of a fan.
Fractal just has is preset to 5v, 7v, 12v. Bay fan controllers you see has sliders or dials. Which has a range of 5v-12v. Same thing.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> What are you talking about fake. It is a fan controller. What do you think one does?
> Fan controller = Ability to adjust the speed of a fan.
> Fractal just has is preset to 5v, 7v, 12v. Bay fan controllers you see has sliders or dials. Which has a range of 5v-12v. Same thing.


Mmm well, I would call it a controller if it actually had any electronic parts. It only has a connector and a switch, that's all folks. If you hook up your fans to a molex connector it's the same thing.
For me a controller would have linearly adjustable voltage, which would mean either regulated voltage to the fans and or PWM regulation. Plus the more decent ones have temp. sensor and can be set up. Could warn you if fans stop, etc. It could ramp up the fans as needed based on temp. sensors. This can't do any of that and it's equal to connecting fans to PSU directly.
It's not a controller to me because it does not control anything, it has no logic, there is no MCU, nothing, only a switch that lets you choose to which wires of the molex from the power supply it will connect the fans to. The simplest and cheapest Fractal could make.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Mmm well, I would call it a controller if it actually had any electronic parts. It only has a connector and a switch, that's all folks. If you hook up your fans to a molex connector it's the same thing.
> For me a controller would have linearly adjustable voltage, which would mean either regulated voltage to the fans and or PWM regulation. Plus the more decent ones have temp. sensor and can be set up. Could warn you if fans stop, etc. It could ramp up the fans as needed based on temp. sensors. This can't do any of that and it's equal to connecting fans to PSU directly.
> It's not a controller to me because it does not control anything, it has no logic, there is no MCU, nothing, only a switch that lets you choose to which wires of the molex from the power supply it will connect the fans to. The simplest and cheapest Fractal could make.]


Any adjustment of fan speed on a physical unit is still a controller. You taking the term to a whole new level and made a simple issue that is not needed.
This is the same, you slide to adjust the speed you want. Same with NZXT, Aerocool and others.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This I would call a controller, it seems to have an MCU and other electronic parts that actually control the fans. Not that it's smart or anything, again only a simple controller, this time the outputs are switched based on position of the sliders via tiny mosfets.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This on the other hand is a fan switch and nothing more.
Cables excluded wouldn't cost more than $0.99 on eBay.


----------



## RnRollie

gotta love semantics

- an 18 wheeler, diesel powered freight hauler : a *truck* or (articulated) *lorry*
- an escalade with 30" low profile wheel & tires and golden door handles : a *pimp mobile*
- an oversized, underpowered people carrier : a *soccer-mum* / *school run* mobile
- an average sized & powered 4 door , 5 seater car: a *family saloon*
- a low, wide +500bhp Ford GT-40 : a *supercar*
- a tiny, 3-wheeled, 50cc wind-in-the-back assisted transport thing: *an abomination*

yet, they are all called *automobiles*


----------



## Tasm

Anyone know´s if the H110 fit´s on Define R3 Top?

I dont care if the 120mm exaust has to be moved to the outside.


----------



## DrockinWV

Check this thread out to see if anyone has tried it







..... http://www.overclock.net/t/1144409/h80-h80i-h90-h100-h100i-h110-case-compatibility-thread-page-1-for-full-listings/0_20


----------



## JackCY

Since no one had any comments on how to cut out the fan grills I went to it my way.
Cutting with dremel sucks so did not attempt that craziness.
Took a few wire cutters and found that the sharpest yet one of the smallest work very well and until they lose a bit of the sharpness they cut the grill like butter.

Cut the rear grill and both bottom grills. Not going to remove the top grills since I don't use them and their mesh is also larger than the rest, meaning the cuts are bigger and tougher to do.

I have kept one row on the bottom grill so I can easily mount 140mm fans in various positions which I plan to do.

Thinking of cutting the 120mm attachments on the rear grill, if I my dremel will cut this kind of metal reasonably.
Otherwise will proceed to file the edges and paint them.






You can see the cutters used, they are not big, had the tip gone since I've tried to cut a too thick wire with them before I bet so I used them for the grill cutting. They still work fine but the super sharp edge is gone, still cut the grills better than the other relatively new cutters I have.
It's all about the sharpness.

My PSU is going to be long so I will use a different support on the bottom of it. The default supports are going to touch the PSU fan grill I think anyway.
PSU extends all the way to the 140mm fan mounts and disallows a 140mm bottom fan to be mounted in original position.

You can also see the marks A and B for the bottom cage mounts! FD marked it but never made any pictures of R4 with the bottom cage rotated.

Leaving the rear top grill since there is no fan and it does give structural integrity.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Since no one had any comments on how to cut out the fan grills I went to it my way.
> Cutting with dremel sucks so did not attempt that craziness.
> Took a few wire cutters and found that the sharpest yet one of the smallest work very well and until they lose a bit of the sharpness they cut the grill like butter.
> 
> Cut the rear grill and both bottom grills. Not going to remove the top grills since I don't use them and their mesh is also larger than the rest, meaning the cuts are bigger and tougher to do.
> 
> I have kept one row on the bottom grill so I can easily mount 140mm fans in various positions which I plan to do.
> 
> Thinking of cutting the 120mm attachments on the rear grill, if I my dremel will cut this kind of metal reasonably.
> Otherwise will proceed to file the edges and paint them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the cutters used, they are not big, had the tip gone since I've tried to cut a too thick wire with them before I bet so I used them for the grill cutting. They still work fine but the super sharp edge is gone, still cut the grills better than the other relatively new cutters I have.
> It's all about the sharpness.
> 
> My PSU is going to be long so I will use a different support on the bottom of it. The default supports are going to touch the PSU fan grill I think anyway.
> PSU extends all the way to the 140mm fan mounts and disallows a 140mm bottom fan to be mounted in original position.
> 
> You can also see the marks A and B for the bottom cage mounts! FD marked it but never made any pictures of R4 with the bottom cage rotated.
> 
> Leaving the rear top grill since there is no fan and it does give structural integrity.


well done









Now, to get some structural strength back (and to protect your fingers), just add ordinairy fan grills (black, not chrome). They have almost no restriction and almost no impact on fan "noise"


----------



## JackCY

I might add one on the back, have a source for black and chrome ones cheap, hope they are painted/blackened well.
Have to look for a half round file, it would make the job much easier. Not sure if I have one big one.

Snipping it off is probably the easiest, it's not really sharp but I like to finish things well. It could really run like this as it is.

There is one spot on the PSU grill that needs a bit of cut and then bend it to one side then the other and it pops off, it's the PSU feet.
On the bottom grill there are two thicker cuts on the front, either do the same but I took bigger cutters and cut it with them, then finished tight with the small ones.
No other problematic spots.

The integrity is fine, I just don't see any advantage of cutting the rear top grill as well.


----------



## RnRollie

or you can "hide" the sharp edges with some channel molding or grommet edging








http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130_132_1014&products_id=3801


----------



## ZeVo

Are your temps any better with the mesh gone


----------



## Bumtsiki

Wanted to ask some design help from you guys. I have arc mini r2: http://1drv.ms/1o0KZfo (not the best pic, little bit too dark to get the point maybe)

I have one red strip behind the motherboard, but when the side panel is on it´s little bit too dark in there. First idea was white led in the case, so the red one still be visible.
Other idea was to get new better fans (fractal´s arent the vest ones), but with white leds. What to you guys think when i put some white led Corsair fans front and back does it make inside the case littlebit more visible or it would be overpowered by white and kills the red led behind the motherboard tray (sorry, i dont have pics with led right now, i´m on it).
Also i prefer led fans because i can buy AF120 and SP120 with really good price right now but they dont have one´s without the leds so its basically white led strip + other brand fans or Corsair led fans.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Are your temps any better with the mesh gone


Should be but considering the MB was never installed in the case since it's new, I can't tell you the difference.
I've cut the front plastic grill then put the standoffs in, removed grommets and snipped the metal grills off.

Waiting for PSU again, then it will get installed into the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Wanted to ask some design help from you guys. I have arc mini r2: http://1drv.ms/1o0KZfo (not the best pic, little bit too dark to get the point maybe)
> 
> I have one red strip behind the motherboard, but when the side panel is on it´s little bit too dark in there. First idea was white led in the case, so the red one still be visible.
> Other idea was to get new better fans (fractal´s arent the vest ones), but with white leds. What to you guys think when i put some white led Corsair fans front and back does it make inside the case littlebit more visible or it would be overpowered by white and kills the red led behind the motherboard tray (sorry, i dont have pics with led right now, i´m on it).
> Also i prefer led fans because i can buy AF120 and SP120 with really good price right now but they dont have one´s without the leds so its basically white led strip + other brand fans or Corsair led fans.


Considering LED lights cost a few $ and run off of 12V, just get LED lights that fit the style you want. Super easy, heck it even comes with glue on the other side to attach and all. Bright enough too depending on what version you select. 2m lights up a room so I bet lighting up a PC case will be easy with them.

Red never seems very bright to the eye as does green or blue. Plus red lights don't have as high output as other colors.


----------



## BenJaminJr

So I just put in the new swiftech h220x. Took a bit of ingenuity to install it but it fits. Only problem now is the stupid hex pattern in the top of the R4 makes the intake noise on the sp120s weird and loud. Anyone have any ideas on how to smooth it out?


----------



## ZeVo

If I ever get the time, I'll do the same thing. Would really be nice to not have to put a fan in the rear to make more noise. Damn mesh in computer cases!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> So I just put in the new swiftech h220x. Took a bit of ingenuity to install it but it fits. Only problem now is the stupid hex pattern in the top of the R4 makes the intake noise on the sp120s weird and loud. Anyone have any ideas on how to smooth it out?


You can set the fan to exhaust or run 5mm washers in between fan and case, which you might need longer screws.
The H220-X is a low FPI rad of 12, the SP120 is really not needed.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> You can set the fan to exhaust or run 5mm washers in between fan and case, which you might need longer screws.
> The H220-X is a low FPI rad of 12, the SP120 is really not needed.


Well I really only bought then because the stick fans are white and I just didn't want to see why on my all black case. Would 5mm really be enough?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> So I just put in the new swiftech h220x. Took a bit of ingenuity to install it but it fits. Only problem now is the stupid hex pattern in the top of the R4 makes the intake noise on the sp120s weird and loud. Anyone have any ideas on how to smooth it out?


yes

dremel or metal cutters

remove most of the mesh and put in a nice open fan or radgrille

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_362


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yes
> 
> dremel or metal cutters
> 
> remove most of the mesh and put in a nice open fan or radgrille
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_362


But the fans I have are 120mm. How could i do that?


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yes
> 
> dremel or metal cutters
> 
> remove most of the mesh and put in a nice open fan or radgrille
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_457_362
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the fans I have are 120mm. How could i do that?
Click to expand...

Like JackCY did - scroll a few posts up:

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/11300_100#post_22645290


----------



## dante`afk

can you get somewhere a filter for the top 2 fans?


----------



## levontraut

what must you do to join the club as such?

I have the Define XL R2 and the Define R2

I love them both.

I am really shocked at how heavy the XL is.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> can you get somewhere a filter for the top 2 fans?


DEMCIFLEX

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=179&zenid=a271755758e500317ea7f2bfd1a85b96&main_page=index


----------



## Jflisk

Waiting for my new Fractical case to show up going from Define Black Pearl rev 1 to a ARC XL, Going to stuff a whole bunch of rads in this thing.


----------



## locx

The front audio ports in my Arc Midi R2 were faulty, I couldn't plug headphones in all the way so they sent me a replacement (great job) but this one is a bit weird too, the ports are angled backwards and still require more force to plug in than I would like. Has anyone else experienced this, is it a case of another replacement?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> what must you do to join the club as such?
> 
> I have the Define XL R2 and the Define R2
> 
> I love them both.
> 
> I am really shocked at how heavy the XL is.


Post pictures.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Post pictures.


here is one

Server



I am going to search for my games rig..


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> But the fans I have are 120mm. How could i do that?


Keep the holes you want, for example for your 120mm radiator mounting, or any other holes you could find useful later for other fan sizes or radiators.
The top grill is thicker than the rest, the holes are larger but the mesh is also thicker.
Get good sharp one sided wire cutters and snip snip snip. You will probably ruin them a little, but a good sharp and hard snips with long grips will go through the mesh effortlessly like through butter.
Or you could use other tools, those may need more polishing afterwards to get rid of the remaining small bits or when you cut it with a powerful dremel.

People also seem to use a nibbler, which I think is a good idea, I don't have one.

On R4 the top mesh as well as the bottom mesh are too close to the fans and that makes extra noise with any fan. Use spacers, as much as you can I guess if you do not want to cut the mesh.
Notice the R4 rear grill is bent outward to make less noise, none of the other grills are.

It will only look as good done as patient you are with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> can you get somewhere a filter for the top 2 fans?


Yes, eBay, cheap from china, they sell 140mm filters. Or some other shops but the costs will skyrocket and they may not have 140mm filters.
You only need filters for intake fans, not exhaust.

You could also buy some plastic or stainless small mesh sheet, cut it to the size you want.
I found eBay to be the best source for filters if I need one.

I can get those circular fan grills cheap locally but not filters.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> But the fans I have are 120mm. How could i do that?
> 
> 
> 
> Keep the holes you want, for example for your 120mm radiator mounting, or any other holes you could find useful later for other fan sizes or radiators.
> The top grill is thicker than the rest, the holes are larger but the mesh is also thicker.
> Get good sharp one sided wire cutters and snip snip snip. You will probably ruin them a little, but a good sharp and hard snips with long grips will go through the mesh effortlessly like through butter.
> Or you could use other tools, those may need more polishing afterwards to get rid of the remaining small bits or when you cut it with a powerful dremel.
> 
> People also seem to use a nibbler, which I think is a good idea, I don't have one.
> 
> On R4 the top mesh as well as the bottom mesh are too close to the fans and that makes extra noise with any fan. Use spacers, as much as you can I guess if you do not want to cut the mesh.
> Notice the R4 rear grill is bent outward to make less noise, none of the other grills are.
> 
> It will only look as good done as patient you are with it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> can you get somewhere a filter for the top 2 fans?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, eBay, cheap from china, they sell 140mm filters. Or some other shops but the costs will skyrocket and they may not have 140mm filters.
> You only need filters for intake fans, not exhaust.
> 
> You could also buy some plastic or stainless small mesh sheet, cut it to the size you want.
> I found eBay to be the best source for filters if I need one.
> 
> I can get those circular fan grills cheap locally but not filters.
Click to expand...

well put









If you are a bit handy, and want to replace the mesh with something a bit more free flowing.. head to the nearest IKEA
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/80153254/



Note the "bumps" ... with a little luck they might sit just above a fan

Also available in pink








http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/80153254/#/20219470


----------



## Jflisk

Fan Guys - Hope this helps

Dremel and File = hole

4.5 hole saw availible at Lowes home Depot = 120mm hole
5.5 hole saw = 140mm hole

Fan Templates
http://mnpctech.com/pc-cooling-fan-templates.html










Have a FANtastic time


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Keep the holes you want, for example for your 120mm radiator mounting, or any other holes you could find useful later for other fan sizes or radiators.
> The top grill is thicker than the rest, the holes are larger but the mesh is also thicker.
> Get good sharp one sided wire cutters and snip snip snip. You will probably ruin them a little, but a good sharp and hard snips with long grips will go through the mesh effortlessly like through butter.
> Or you could use other tools, those may need more polishing afterwards to get rid of the remaining small bits or when you cut it with a powerful dremel.
> 
> People also seem to use a nibbler, which I think is a good idea, I don't have one.
> 
> On R4 the top mesh as well as the bottom mesh are too close to the fans and that makes extra noise with any fan. Use spacers, as much as you can I guess if you do not want to cut the mesh.
> Notice the R4 rear grill is bent outward to make less noise, none of the other grills are.
> 
> It will only look as good done as patient you are with it.


This is good info here. I think I have an old air cut off wheel I can use. Hopefully the r5 has a fix for this problem.


----------



## levontraut

As Promised here is one of my games rig.



one of my man cave


----------



## Camberwell

Is there any word yet on a possible Design R5?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> As Promised here is one of my games rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't you want to remove those drive cages? Let the case breathe?
You don't need drive cages to hold two drives








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> Is there any word yet on a possible Design R5?


Not that I know about. Plus looking and modding the R4, I hardly see a reason to buy any expensive computer cases at all. Just get one that fits 140mm fans, has space for a radiator if you want AIO or something, can fit tall CPU heatsinks, long GPUs, has enough intakes or options to make them.
R4 is nice but it's still a cheap steel china case. It's hyped a bit but looking at other options there is not that much to choose from really :| At least at the reasonable price range.

The cases cost about the same IMHO to produce yet some will cost $50 and some $150 only because of a brand name and better ventilation.
Next time I'm building a computer and there are still only cases with 5.25" drives, I'll rather buy few aluminum square profiles and fit acrylic or something on them, mounting the MB probably the trickiest part. Or find the cheapest case that fits 140mm fans and all I need, dampen it myself, make intakes if I need to, cut drive bays to free airflow, who knows.

R4 looks clean and has most of the features from the get go, costs, ok, not good but not that bad, so I got it. Less modding-work but more or same cost. Didn't like any of the cheaper cases, seemed small or outright ugly with the aggressive design. A simple monolithic cube with vents is enough for me









I still don't get it why they don't provide direct intakes for CPU and GPU.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Don't you want to remove those drive cages? Let the case breathe?
> You don't need drive cages to hold two drives


I thought of that but if you see how much stuff I have it is easier to keep it all in.

I did however move the front fan to the top section of the fan holder as it would then blow air over my ssd and hdd.


----------



## pdxracer

Bought the Arc XL on Monday and should be here by Friday at latest.

Cant wait to start this build, never heard of these cases until monday, and 30 minutes after reading reviews and watching a few videos pull the trigger on it.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdxracer*
> 
> Bought the Arc XL on Monday and should be here by Friday at latest.
> 
> Cant wait to start this build, never heard of these cases until monday, and 30 minutes after reading reviews and watching a few videos pull the trigger on it.


I will let you know how it goes. I have a ARC XL coming in today.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> I thought of that but if you see how much stuff I have it is easier to keep it all in.
> 
> I did however move the front fan to the top section of the fan holder as it would then blow air over my ssd and hdd.


You lose any airflow from the front leave the drive there.
Best to remove top HDD cage for optimal airflow and cooling.


----------



## locx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> The front audio ports in my Arc Midi R2 were faulty, I couldn't plug headphones in all the way so they sent me a replacement (great job) but this one is a bit weird too, the ports are angled backwards and still require more force to plug in than I would like. Has anyone else experienced this, is it a case of another replacement?


Bump for this. Any ideas?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> Bump for this. Any ideas?


Get another replacement.


----------



## locx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Get another replacement.


Is it common for FD to have faulty audio ports?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> Is it common for FD to have faulty audio ports?


I had a dodgy port on my original Arc Midi but that was ages ago.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> Is it common for FD to have faulty audio ports?


R4
I haven't tried them yet, probably won't even use them. They are some cheap Chinese audio ports, it will probably add more interference and noise to the audio, ok for normal use, but why use them if you can get a cable directly to your sound card in the back. These extensions of ports never bring anything good in terms of signal quality.

Ok let me try. I have the front panel off anyway.

Jeez these do suck indeed. At first thought they are jammed or something, couldn't plug it in. Then after a few tries got it down on both ports. They seem to need some break in and will always need more force to plug them in at the very end. They will hold sure, you won't accidentally unplug them. But sometimes it's better to unplug your headphones than to break your cable or headphones. Don't like the ports, too hard. Hardest 3.5mm jacks I've ever used.

Beat it on their head to fix it. I don't feel like returning every god damn computer part I buy. Chinese manufacturing...


----------



## locx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> R4
> I haven't tried them yet, probably won't even use them. They are some cheap Chinese audio ports, it will probably add more interference and noise to the audio, ok for normal use, but why use them if you can get a cable directly to your sound card in the back. These extensions of ports never bring anything good in terms of signal quality.
> 
> Ok let me try. I have the front panel off anyway.
> 
> Jeez these do suck indeed. At first thought they are jammed or something, couldn't plug it in. Then after a few tries got it down on both ports. They seem to need some break in and will always need more force to plug them in at the very end. They will hold sure, you won't accidentally unplug them. But sometimes it's better to unplug your headphones than to break your cable or headphones. Don't like the ports, too hard. Hardest 3.5mm jacks I've ever used.
> 
> Beat it on their head to fix it. I don't feel like returning every god damn computer I buy. Chinese manufacturing...


So that sounds like mine...

I only use them for my headphones when I use them. I have 5.1 system connected at the back and I don't want to unplug it every time.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> R4
> I haven't tried them yet, probably won't even use them. They are some cheap Chinese audio ports, it will probably add more interference and noise to the audio, ok for normal use, but why use them if you can get a cable directly to your sound card in the back. These extensions of ports never bring anything good in terms of signal quality.
> 
> Ok let me try. I have the front panel off anyway.
> 
> Jeez these do suck indeed. At first thought they are jammed or something, couldn't plug it in. Then after a few tries got it down on both ports. They seem to need some break in and will always need more force to plug them in at the very end. They will hold sure, you won't accidentally unplug them. But sometimes it's better to unplug your headphones than to break your cable or headphones. Don't like the ports, too hard. Hardest 3.5mm jacks I've ever used.
> 
> Beat it on their head to fix it. I don't feel like returning every god damn computer I buy. Chinese manufacturing...
> 
> 
> 
> So that sounds like mine...
> 
> I only use them for my headphones when I use them. I have 5.1 system connected at the back and I don't want to unplug it every time.
Click to expand...

Don't a lot of 5.1 systems come with a headphone jack port in the controlling (right) speaker? Mine does.... so if i would ever feel the need to plug in a headphone, i dont need to unplug anything, nor do i need to use front panel ports (these are 80% of the time crap anyways)


----------



## dante`afk

anyone tried different airflow combinations with the 2 top fan positions and can comment on results?

was thinking about top rear outflow and front top inflow?


----------



## DA77

Atm im using two 140mm fans that came with the case as front intakes and tomorrow ill add another 140mm as bottom intake. Using only one 120mm exhaust which i plan to replace with same 140mm Fractal fan.

Temps are good imo, CPU hovers around 50C in gaming, GPU 84C (stock HD 6970, my r9 290 that died was around 65C), HDD and SSD around 35C ( no airflow for them )


----------



## Jflisk

Just got the ARC XL. Figuring out what to do with it. Have to rip my existing build apart for this one guess thats a good start. Need some color scheme ideas . Basically Noctua fans- asus sabertooth board. BLAAA Green- brown- tan.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> anyone tried different airflow combinations with the 2 top fan positions and can comment on results?
> 
> was thinking about top rear outflow and front top inflow?


I would do the same, definitely top front as intake. I would probably try to put there some separation so the outtake does not suck the intake fan and the air is forced to go down. Shouldn't make a big difference but you can try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Just got the ARC XL. Figuring out what to do with it. Have to rip my existing build apart for this one guess thats a good start. Need some color scheme ideas . Basically Noctua fans- asus sabertooth board. BLAAA Green- brown- tan.


Pick your color and a spray paint can


----------



## Bumtsiki

Does the h110 fit into Arc Mini R2? Do i have to get rid of the dvd bay it to fit?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Does the h110 fit into Arc Mini R2? Do i have to get rid of the dvd bay it to fit?


H110 does not fit correctly. The clearance for the rad+fans from the 8pin connection kinda gets in the way.
You can do a 240 on top and 240 in front or 360 on top with OD removed.


----------



## dante`afk

I removed the side grill, bottom grill and rear grill. then I`ve put 140mm fans on the side and on the bottom. dropped my gpu down to 64C on load, that`s minus 11c before removing! crazy

gonna play with top fans now around and see what goes

//edit, top fans intake or outtake does nothing temperaturewise for me.


----------



## LiranV

I've got a strange problem with my R4.
The rubber grommets for the cable managment seems to stain me when I touch them.
I mean that if I touch them my finger becomes black.
I don't remember that this happened when I first got the case so something must have changed.
Is there any solution for this?
They also might seem a little bit dry, but im not sure.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiranV*
> 
> I've got a strange problem with my R4.
> The rubber grommets for the cable managment seems to stain me when I touch them.
> I mean that if I touch them my finger becomes black.
> I don't remember that this happened when I first got the case so something must have changed.
> Is there any solution for this?
> They also might seem a little bit dry, but im not sure.


Have you sprayed anything around them sounds like the rubber is breaking down. Might be dust.


----------



## LiranV

I keep my case fairly dust free so i don't think it's that.
And I also didn't spray anything inside.


----------



## RnRollie

one of the things that can affect rubber , making it "melt" is butter (or was it margarine?)


----------



## JR1de57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BKinn*
> 
> Took a slightly better photo of my Node 804 today since my Gene V broke. I can't seem to get rid of the yellow tinge from the lighting. I need to get better lighting for photos or take it outside again.


looks great... i have that same cooler and case ... was thinking about using it and just went with my h100i in the node instead... I wanna do some nicer fans just trying to figure out what i wanna use...

ill get some pictures up when i get a chance ... running tests atm...


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> I removed the side grill, bottom grill and rear grill. then I`ve put 140mm fans on the side and on the bottom. dropped my gpu down to 64C on load, that`s minus 11c before removing! crazy
> 
> gonna play with top fans now around and see what goes
> 
> //edit, top fans intake or outtake does nothing temperature wise for me.


What kind of GPU cooler do you have? How does orientation intake/exhaust of the side fan affect your GPU temps?

---

FD design, top notch, more cutting...

EVGA 850 G2 finally arrived, will see if it works, so far only ran it without load to test it, don't ask why, *read/see here soon*.

FD R4, poor design for 140mm PSU fan.
EVGA 850 G2 is 180mm long and goes all the way to the edge of my bottom fan grill cut, blocks original 140mm bottom fan mounts. Access to modular connectors on the PSU with bottom fan is possible, fan will fit but might need to remove the fan to detach bottom row connectors from the PSU.




Will attempt to cut it round, if it goes bad I will just chop the whole thing off.


----------



## dante`afk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> What kind of GPU cooler do you have? How does orientation intake/exhaust of the side fan affect your GPU temps?


prolimatech mk26 with 2x 140mm fans. I`ve put the side fan only on intake since the gpu needs fresh cold air. all the warm air goes on the rear out.
my psu was also edging on the bottom grill, couldnt even attach a fan there with screws. i`ve mounted it with double sided glue tape


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> prolimatech mk26 with 2x 140mm fans. I`ve put the side fan only on intake since the gpu needs fresh cold air. all the warm air goes on the rear out.
> my psu was also edging on the bottom grill, couldnt even attach a fan there with screws. i`ve mounted it with double sided glue tape


I have a similar fan but with 90 degree rotated fins, it tries to push the air out on far ends of the VGA.
Kind of struggles as I can feel the air being pushed out around the fans too.

On yours isn't the side fan pushing against the exhaust of the GPU cooler? Since yours is pushing it to the sides, bottom to MB and up toward the side panel.

Fresh air for sure helps but with some coolers it might work better as exhaust.

---

More progress:





The snips I found and only I know about are pretty bad, old and not sharp, cannot cut small pieces off to touch up and they bend when they don't want to cut. They are what you guys may know as green tin snips.
Could have made the hole a little bigger on the right, oh well, will touch it up on Monday with a file and that's done.


----------



## dante`afk

Oh it is. I`ve mounted the fan outside of the case with rubber anti vibration screws


----------



## GiSSelo

Did a little upgrading to my dads R3 and now the front audio won't work, what I did was just cut away the AC97 connector since it wasn't used (looked bad and we are using the HD connector anyway) and I just throw it away, and now a few days later when he wanted to use it for headphones there's no sound, it detects when inserted and everything but no sound, the back output works and turns of like it should, I have tried ever possible setting in the software but to no solution.
So I wonder if any one of you R3 owners could take a look (maybe a photo or two) and see if there is some cable going between the two connectors (AC97 and HD Audio) that must still be there. It worked before and the motherboard and sound are the same as before, and the OS is the same install as before.

This it how it looks like now.


----------



## Jflisk

I got the new case together today.ARC XL under water.


----------



## ichiwot

my green mini greetings from ph:thumb:


----------



## reset1101

Nice WC builds guys









Hopefuly I'll post pictures of my new WC ARC XL build next week.


----------



## Malik




----------



## RnRollie

you know, it still makes me uneasy to see a CPU block in parallel with a GPU block.. especially with a clear air bubble in the CPU block

While it might look good.. it can not work good.. its asking for trouble


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you know, it still makes me uneasy to see a CPU block in parallel with a GPU block.. especially with a clear air bubble in the CPU block
> 
> While it might look good.. it can not work good.. its asking for trouble


I see it as series and yes that looks like a big bubble in the CPU block









The case won't fit A14 fans? Only 120mm F12s?

Too bad those fans are more pricey than gold.

---

More cutting of the R4, dremel work:



Spoiler: Cutting unused mounts and edges






Still a bit left to do on the bottom fan, plus filing edges and painting.
Have to wait until tomorrow.

A good cutting wheel is crucial as is not cutting with it but grinding along a line on the surface over and over until it cuts through. Otherwise the wheel gets ruined quickly and it doesn't cut as fast.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you know, it still makes me uneasy to see a CPU block in parallel with a GPU block.. especially with a clear air bubble in the CPU block
> 
> While it might look good.. it can not work good.. its asking for trouble
> 
> 
> 
> *I see it as series* and yes that looks like a big bubble in the CPU block
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The case won't fit A14 fans? Only 120mm F12s?
> 
> Too bad those fans are more pricey than gold.
Click to expand...

yeah well, it aint series, unless some magical one-way crossover fittings were used, this is a CPU-GPU parallel setup


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> yeah well, it aint series, unless some magical one-way crossover fittings were used, this is a CPU-GPU parallel setup


Oh, now I get it, my bad. I thought the GPU is blocked but that's not how most of these work hey. Parallel, hmm, must be a little strange, hopefully the resistance of both coolers is the same for the water, otherwise one gets more. But I guess it works anyway, interesting to see so many water loops here.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> you know, it still makes me uneasy to see a CPU block in parallel with a GPU block.. especially with a clear air bubble in the CPU block
> 
> While it might look good.. it can not work good.. its asking for trouble


There is no problem with this type of connection. Pararell set is ok, temps are ok. About this bubble - this photo was taken when i just poured the liquid. After 5-10 min of work, he vanished







So i dont see problem here


----------



## JackCY

Damn it, my motherboard doesn't have common cathode power and hdd LED but common anode. All this talk online about it being common cathode, BS, just tested it when my 3 color common cathode LEDs arrived. 100% common anode, should have tested before ordering duh *facepalm*
At least I have colors to play with, although combining colors from a single, even diffused, LED kind of sucks, doesn't look that great as the output is directed red forward, blue to one side, green to the other side.

R4 has been cut and filed, waiting for final cleaning and paint.


----------



## Spartoz

Here's my arc midi r2








1 year now that i have it and i realy like it but i have a lot of vibrations :







( with and without the hdd cage )


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoz*
> 
> Here's my arc midi r2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 year now that i have it and i realy like it but i have a lot of vibrations :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( with and without the hdd cage )


Hmm. Never had vibrations with mine when I had it. Come to think of it I've never had vibrations with any of my 4 Fractal cases. Can you tell where abouts it's vibrating from?


----------



## RnRollie

if its coming from the sidepanels, just loosen the thumbscrews... if you (over)tighten them, it puts tension on the panel and it is prone to "vibration" noise.


----------



## Spartoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> if its coming from the sidepanels, just loosen the thumbscrews... if you (over)tighten them, it puts tension on the panel and it is prone to "vibration" noise.


I did this and it change nothing








Many of the vibrations come from the front dust filter and from the side panel
Oh and fans are noisy too 



 ( you can hear like there is something hitting the pales )


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spartoz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> if its coming from the sidepanels, just loosen the thumbscrews... if you (over)tighten them, it puts tension on the panel and it is prone to "vibration" noise.
> 
> 
> 
> I did this and it change nothing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the vibrations come from the front dust filter and from the side panel
> Oh and fans are noisy too
> 
> 
> 
> ( you can hear like there is something hitting the pales )
Click to expand...

time to take some part apart then and apply rubber/foam (draft) strips in strategic places Or maybe a nylon/rubber washer on on the fan(s) to change their distance from the panel

One thing to try: fold over some paper till you have soemthing thick enough to wedge between right sidepanel and the MB tray, as if trying to make it "bulge out"... if that changes noise... replace with a rubber block/wedge

Note that you may have a fan imbalance causing an harmonic vibration throughout the cage; so, try changing them out.. or switching positions.


----------



## Spartoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> time to take some part apart then and apply rubber/foam (draft) strips in strategic places Or maybe a nylon/rubber washer on on the fan(s) to change their distance from the panel
> 
> One thing to try: fold over some paper till you have soemthing thick enough to wedge between right sidepanel and the MB tray, as if trying to make it "bulge out"... if that changes noise... replace with a rubber block/wedge
> 
> Note that you may have a fan imbalance causing an harmonic vibration throughout the cage; so, try changing them out.. or switching positions.


I tried putting rubberband but it changed nothing








I think its comming from my desk because if i put a pressure on it it stops vibrating...


----------



## Wezzor

Hi guys!
I was wondering if it's worth getting a intake fan at the bottom? This is currently how my R4 looks. The only problems is that I'd just be able to get a 120mm because of the PSU. I mean would I see any bigger difference since I've alot of cables there also that would block the airflow.


----------



## reset1101

I think you would see more noise increase than actual temp improvement. So, I wouldnt do it.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> I think you would see more noise increase than actual temp improvement. So, I wouldnt do it.


That was my thought too. I was thinking about something like sound dampening material instead.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> That was my thought too. I was thinking about something like sound dampening material instead.


I dont think that would make any difference really, unless you cover that gap with something and you clearly notice less noise coming out of your case.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> I dont think that would make any difference really, unless you cover that gap with something and you clearly notice less noise coming out of your case.


If you say so then I guess I'll skip it.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> If you say so then I guess I'll skip it.


What I say is that you better try covering the lower area with something, close the panels and see if you notice any difference in noise. If you do, maybe its worth it.


----------



## Lutfij

Malik,
That is one superbly done 804 build!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> There is no problem with this type of connection. Pararell set is ok, temps are ok. About this bubble - this photo was taken when i just poured the liquid. After 5-10 min of work, he vanished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i dont see problem here


and what about system specs?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Now the other side of the case








Please









---

FD R4 cut, filed and painted, drying.
Used a touch up pen for car repairs, dark blue, not that much noticeable without flash.






Anyone knows about some cheap higher feet instead of those low FD feet?
Or some spacers. I'm getting tired of modding it. Fixing obvious issues that kill airflow and make more noise.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Now the other side of the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> FD R4 cut, filed and painted, drying.
> Used a touch up pen for car repairs, dark blue, not that much noticeable without flash.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone knows about some cheap higher feet instead of those low FD feet?
> Or some spacers. I'm getting tired of modding it. Fixing obvious issues that kill airflow and make more noise.


I used 4 2"x2" pieces of black 1/4" foam core under each foot to give the case better breathing room underneath,


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I used 4 2"x2" pieces of black 1/4" foam core under each foot to give the case better breathing room underneath,


The holes look good what are you using them for. I might have missed something in the thread. Thanks


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The holes look good what are you using them for. I might have missed something in the thread. Thanks


The case belongs to JackCY I was just letting them know what I used to raise my case off the desk some


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> The holes look good what are you using them for. I might have missed something in the thread. Thanks


I've cut out the rear and bottom grills as they block airflow a lot.
It's a new case so getting it done before installing things in it.

Snipped the grills off with wire cutters, it's often enough but I got EVGA G2 PSU and needed kind of a bigger hole for the PSU fan on bottom so I cut it out with tin snips.
Then taped and covered the case to not get so much dust in it and used a dremel to cut the rest as you see at the end. Rear 120 mounts that I don't need, the bent tabs that were left on the rear exhaust, some tabs on the bottom to make it more straight and clean.
Filed and painted the cut edge.

Pics in gallery and a few previous posts.

---

DrockinWV: Thanks I will have to look around for options so it's good to hear what others used.
Got me an idea of cutting a piece of a black rubber mat we have in the garage. It should be thick enough and easier to work with than cutting wood and such, hate that, have hard wood here, pain to cut it and work with.
I've looked for sorbo but is crazy expensive and not really needed. Almost anything will do.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> DrockinWV: Thanks I will have to look around for options so it's good to hear what others used.
> Got me an idea of cutting a piece of a black rubber mat we have in the garage. It should be thick enough and easier to work with than cutting wood and such, hate that, have hard wood here, pain to cut it and work with.
> I've looked for sorbo but is crazy expensive and not really needed. Almost anything will do.


The higher the better, once I raised my case up (probably an inch or so higher) it seemed to lower over all temps of the case


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I've cut out the rear and bottom grills as they block airflow a lot.
> It's a new case so getting it done before installing things in it.
> 
> Snipped the grills off with wire cutters, it's often enough but I got EVGA G2 PSU and needed kind of a bigger hole for the PSU fan on bottom so I cut it out with tin snips.
> Then taped and covered the case to not get so much dust in it and used a dremel to cut the rest as you see at the end. Rear 120 mounts that I don't need, the bent tabs that were left on the rear exhaust, some tabs on the bottom to make it more straight and clean.
> Filed and painted the cut edge.
> 
> Pics in gallery and a few previous posts.
> 
> ---
> 
> DrockinWV: Thanks I will have to look around for options so it's good to hear what others used.
> Got me an idea of cutting a piece of a black rubber mat we have in the garage. It should be thick enough and easier to work with than cutting wood and such, hate that, have hard wood here, pain to cut it and work with.
> I've looked for sorbo but is crazy expensive and not really needed. Almost anything will do.


I use a board under my computer have not tried replacing the feet though. You might want to look up case feet and see what comes up. The board keeps the computer up off the carpet and the case bottom is not blocked.


----------



## dante`afk

how easy can you fit a 280mm rad in the front? any modification necessary?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> how easy can you fit a 280mm rad in the front? any modification necessary?


The hole in front of R4 metal case is 145x306mm. So you could.
The fan holder can hold 140x290mm.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> how easy can you fit a 280mm rad in the front? any modification necessary?
> 
> 
> 
> The hole in front of R4 metal case is 145x306mm. So you could.
> The fan holder can hold 140x290mm.
Click to expand...

However, not all radiators are created equal. You have to add the plenum chamber(s) & ports/fittings. This is in most cases 30 - 50mm
While the "fans" my fit, you can run into trouble with the fittins/hoses. You have to look up the real lenght of the rad and see if you have enough space fro the fittings/hoses.. you may be forced to mount it with the fittings/hoses on top or bottom and this can be an inconvenience to reach the CPU or GPU or whatever









The Nemesis GTX is 316mm long, its GTS X-flow brother is 326mm ; Alphacool UT60 is 324mm, the ST30 is 297mm, the XT45 326mm ; hthe NZXT Kraken X60 is 312mm , etc


----------



## iRUSH

I just picked up the Mini R2 with the window. Amazing case!! $80 at Microcenter and I'm very happy with it.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iRUSH*
> 
> I just picked up the Mini R2 with the window. Amazing case!! $80 at Microcenter and I'm very happy with it.


Couldn't agree more.


----------



## Jflisk

Just got done drilling the fan holes in the back of my Ark XL to fit the rear radiator in my case straight. Don't know why they don't drill the holes in the rear of the case to match radiator facing up or down for the outlets.


----------



## Dimensive

I've been amazed by all of the setups that I have seen in here, they've given me a lot of ideas.


----------



## mikeroq

Behold crappy phone pics.


http://imgur.com/FpnPMhm




http://imgur.com/zBvmnE5


Won't do any serious cabling until I get a good PSU.


----------



## DrockinWV

Would like to see if anyone has attempted what I am thinking about doing. I have the Fractal Design R4 w/window and since switching my H100i (mounted on top) as intake, my GPU and case air has been running warm. My GPU isnt terrible usually maxes out around 75-76c but the temp in the case gets as high as 43c. I have been thinking of drilling into the window side of my case to add an extra exhaust fan, in order to get rid of this warm air blowing out of my GPU. Is there anything I need to know before trying to do this? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys!!


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeroq*
> 
> Behold crappy phone pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/FpnPMhm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zBvmnE5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Won't do any serious cabling until I get a good PSU.


Is that all the drives you gonna run? if it is, move to lower cage and remove top cage to allow for better airflow.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> how easy can you fit a 280mm rad in the front? any modification necessary?


http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/775-diy-case-mod-guide-280-radiator-in-fractal-design-r4/


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Is that all the drives you gonna run? if it is, move to lower cage and remove top cage to allow for better airflow.


+1
Was about to say exactly the same thing.


----------



## wakywakyme

Are there Fractal rep's in this thread?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Would like to see if anyone has attempted what I am thinking about doing. I have the Fractal Design R4 w/window and since switching my H100i (mounted on top) as intake, my GPU and case air has been running warm. My GPU isnt terrible usually maxes out around 75-76c but the temp in the case gets as high as 43c. I have been thinking of drilling into the window side of my case to add an extra exhaust fan, in order to get rid of this warm air blowing out of my GPU. Is there anything I need to know before trying to do this? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys!!


Anyone?...


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wakywakyme*
> 
> Are there Fractal rep's in this thread?


Do you have a problem that we can help with?


----------



## iRUSH

What kinds of MODS have some of you done with your MINI R2? I just got mine over the weekend and it's really nice.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Anyone?...


You might want to check and see if they used real glass on the side panel. I have the ARC Xl and its real glass. Thanks

If not. Template and instructions for adding fans

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/371-diy-guide-to-installing-140mm-cooling-fan/


----------



## wakywakyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Do you have a problem that we can help with?


I am just wondering if they would release a node 804 that is more ARCish in its looks. I have an arc mini and I love it! The direct airflow design of the node 804 would compliment my aircooled rig


----------



## The Muffin Man

I'm surprised that the Fractal Design Core 1300 has very little love!

Here's mine















Link to build log if anyone is interested. http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You might want to check and see if they used real glass on the side panel. I have the ARC Xl and its real glass. Thanks
> 
> If not. Template and instructions for adding fans
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/371-diy-guide-to-installing-140mm-cooling-fan/


Thanks for the link, I will check it out now!! I dont think it is real glass but that could be a bummer lol I will double check


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Thanks for the link, I will check it out now!! I dont think it is real glass but that could be a bummer lol I will double check


Just tap it and tap a window if it sounds the same then its glass. Plastic and glass also look different. I was surprised when I figured out my window was glass.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Just tap it and tap a window if it sounds the same then its glass. Plastic and glass also look different. I was surprised when I figured out my window was glass.


I will do that once I get home this evening. The only thing about this guide, I was not thinking about making one big hole more so a bunch of smaller holes... Either would work Im sure


----------



## s3nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Muffin Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm surprised that the Fractal Design Core 1300 has very little love!
> 
> Here's mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Link to build log if anyone is interested. http://www.overclock.net/t/1501431/build-log-fractal-design-core-1300-watercooled/0_20


That's one hell of a setup! love the colours and the style of it. The frontplate isn't a nice one in my opinion, preferred the standard aluminum brushed one


----------



## JackCY

Removing the ring noise from metal parts of R4, adding weight reduces vibrations. It's stuff used on cars etc. In America probably best known as dynamat. This is thicker = heavier and cheaper though. Black film to tape over still did not arrive but it will hide the shiny aluminum. Don't have window side anyway. Also cut a remaining piece of open cell foam that fits nicely into the unused 5.25" bay. Too bad it's not screwed in but bolted. And the bolts are rubbish, the cage still resonates a little at some of the joints of front and the bay, at least without the foam when I tap on the empty case.






And HDD LED added, new position for power LED and HDD LED, cables secured on switches, it's all flimsy and not be moved around much. Sleeved all cables from the header to one, power & reset switch plus both LEDs.


----------



## The Muffin Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3nzftw*
> 
> That's one hell of a setup! love the colours and the style of it. The frontplate isn't a nice one in my opinion, preferred the standard aluminum brushed one


I planned to give it a brushed finish but I just couldn't ruin that perfect shine


----------



## mikeroq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Is that all the drives you gonna run? if it is, move to lower cage and remove top cage to allow for better airflow.


My brain says I'm going to fill it up.

My wallet says in due time.

But I am going to get some ssds and more hdds.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeroq*
> 
> My brain says I'm going to fill it up.
> 
> My wallet says in due time.
> 
> But I am going to get some ssds and more hdds.


And until then the cage will be gone


----------



## mikeroq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> And until then the cage will be gone


Nah. I like them in front of the fan.


----------



## reset1101

Finally my rig is finished. Im very happy with temps and silence specially. A store mounted it for me so I just had the merit of choosing and paying xD. Hope you like it.


----------



## JackCY

Maybe someone will find this trick helpful.

Not enough cable management loops? Zip ties to make some more








Would use yellow on all that are hidden but the ones I have are short so only three there. Easier to see and find than all the black that hides.
At least the SSD mounts are used for something as they are useless for SSD mounting.



Putting it in, left the IO panel shield out, didn't like it when it was there and I think it even blocked DP a little since mobo had to be moved to one side of the IO shield, meh.
Extra vent space right over the VRM heatsinks never hurts.


----------



## JackCY

If someone did not like the silver STP/dynamat added, here it's covered in black I think fake carbon.



Spoiler: Close up pictures











Foil arrived today as I was going to put more things in, luckily I didn't since it's good to have access and not get blocked by CPU cooler half the time.
Unnoticeable unless one looks close.


----------



## Dimensive

I'm here to join the club!

Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K (Overclocked to 4GHz)
Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK
RAM: 8GB Kingston HyperX FURY DDR3 1866MHz
PSU: 720W Cooler Master Silent Pro M2
GPU: XFX Double D Radeon HD 7850
SSD: 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K (OS)
HDD: 1TB Western Digital Black (Storage)


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I'm here to join the club!
> 
> Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini
> Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Pro4
> CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K (Overclocked to 4GHz)
> Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK
> RAM: 8GB Kingston HyperX FURY DDR3 1866MHz
> PSU: 720W Cooler Master Silent Pro M2
> GPU: XFX Double D Radeon HD 7850
> SSD: 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K (OS)
> HDD: 1TB Western Digital Black (Storage)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, Move the SSD to the back and HDD sit on the bottom of case over the fan spot. Use rubber washers so its not on metal. Remove bottom HDD cage.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Nice, Move the SSD to the back and HDD sit on the bottom of case over the fan spot. Use rubber washers so its not on metal. Remove bottom HDD cage.


I would move the SSD to the back, but I'm using the first Arc Mini. What I will most likely end up doing is changing the Kingston SSD to a 500GB Samsung EVO, then adding a 500GB Samsung EVO for Steam, and keep the 1TB Black for extra storage. Or I'll just swap the 120GB SSD for the 500GB SSD and remove the 1TB HDD, and see about removing the HDD cage. If MSI releases that Z97 Krait in mATX form, I will buy it--I like black & white.


----------



## JackCY

I would prefer the mounting like Core 3300 has instead of the drive cages. IMHO better airflow and if done well it doesn't have to vibrate and the cages make tons of vibration noise anyway, can't be much worse than that.




They only provide one though, not two = one for each side.


----------



## smoke2

I'm owning Fractal Define R4 and would like to know how I can raise it off the ground so I have a little more clearance on the bottom intake fan for air.
I have it on carpet with small hairs.
What should I use to raise it a little higher.
Any suggestions, please?


----------



## JackCY

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm owning Fractal Define R4 and would like to know how I can raise it off the ground so I have a little more clearance on the bottom intake fan for air.
> I have it on carpet with small hairs.
> What should I use to raise it a little higher.
> Any suggestions, please?


I'm be soon working on that.

Put something flat under the case and over the carpet, doesn't really matter what it is from.
Cut something to raise the feet, I will cut it from inch thick wood, black rubber would work well, or making custom feet out of aluminum rod.
Get longer M3 screws, nuts, washers. I already have since yesterday.
Custom case feet in shops are often below an inch high and cost a fortune.


----------



## smoke2

Please, can you post some link where are the custom case feets?
Have you some tip which can be suitable for R4?


----------



## Bumtsiki

Hi, i am owner of Arc Mini R2 and it is great little case. Bought today h100i and wanted to install it front of the case. It seems like the radiator doesnt fit very well, have anybody installed it front of the case?
I can install it top of the case, but i think its better thermal when i bring fresh cold air in from the front, and exhaust it from back and top.


----------



## JackCY

Case feet but all are low, so useless.

Plus overpriced as hell.

Getting two 2" inch square wood bars 1 foot long just sitting the case on top if them would work too and won't cost you crazy $40.
Can even find some left over pieces of wood at home.

Tips, mods? I don't know, I just do what I like to do with mine, see pics posted here on previous pages and in the gallery.


----------



## SirDrexl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wakywakyme*
> 
> I am just wondering if they would release a node 804 that is more ARCish in its looks. I have an arc mini and I love it! The direct airflow design of the node 804 would compliment my aircooled rig


I think it looks very Arc-ish as it is. It's got the mesh on top and some in the front, the curved corners, and the faux brushed aluminum look. About the only thing they could do to get closer is add some more mesh in the front. Is that what you want?


----------



## JackCY

It's a Node series not Arc, not Core, nor Define.

---

Testing options for suspension in R4.
I don't think I have enough cord or need to make a bungee fake cage so these are one drive options.



^ this one is super easy to work with and make, will change it a bit so the drive is more from the side panel even though this is ok too.



^ this works well but connecting = making the loops is a bit of a pain, shot with case up side down.
It could fit two in the 5.25" bay and put foam in between, but as I read suspended drives heat up a little more so I will use the first and easier option that works fine for one drive.



Someone took the screwable zip ties yesterday so I ran out of an option to use them. Only found screwable attachments for cables/wires.
The HDD screws work well and it can also fit the FD rubber useless grommets that are otherwise for fans or who knows, it can help the cord to not slip out if you mount it unwisely.

My cord is green because I don't have any other lying around, plan was to velcro the HDD to the bottom but I don't want to mess up the sticker if I ever need to pull the velcro off, so suspension it is and it seems to work better for connecting multiple drives on one power cable too.

---

OK, final thing here with a test drive.





No new holes made, everything is already there. Bottom hooks are zipties with heatshrink over them because they can be a bit sharp otherwise.
There are multiple ways of how to hook the HDD in but the basic is to hook up top to top and bottom two somewhere to the bottom.


----------



## Dimensive

I decided to have a bit of fun with some spray paint, I like the results...


----------



## phil2014

Hi all, Does anyone know if I can squeeze in a XFX R9 290 DD Black Edition into the R3?


----------



## JackCY

Yes and no. Officially no, unofficially yes. With removed cages for sure.

*R3: 290mm*
*Card Dimension (cm) : 29.5 x 14.3 x 4.2*

---

R4 also says: CPU coolers up to 170mm tall (when no fan is installed in the side panel)
When in fact my HR-02 is 162mm tall and still has a space above it for a hand, so probably up to 190mm could fit without side fan or with 120mm side fan or when cooler doesn't interfere with side fan.


----------



## phil2014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yes and no. Officially no, unofficially yes. With removed cages for sure.
> 
> *R3: 290mm*
> *Card Dimension (cm) : 29.5 x 14.3 x 4.2*
> 
> ---
> 
> R4 also says: CPU coolers up to 170mm tall (when no fan is installed in the side panel)
> When in fact my HR-02 is 162mm tall and still has a space above it for a hand, so probably up to 190mm could fit without side fan or with 120mm side fan or when cooler doesn't interfere with side fan.


The specs are wrong for my case because I measured it, the space is actually about 29.5/6cm. So if it fits, it willl be pretty much touching the hdd cage and if the xfx wont fit I will have to cut a slot out of the cage, as it cant be removed


----------



## yonathan

I need some help for deciding where to mount my HDD and SSD. I'm going to order a Define R4 pretty soon and i've read that removing both HDD cages improves airflow significantly. My question is, where is the best and most secure place to mount a HDD outside the drive cages?


----------



## JackCY

Not even on top removed? Looked from pictures like it's screwed in there and on the bottom, did they riveted in permanently? WTH.
In such a case, drill the rivets out or remove them some other way, if needed later, screw it back in.

HDD cages tend to make noise anyway, only make it easier to attach many HDDs. For a couple of HDDs it's pointless to use cages and suspend the HDDs instead even if it's in the 2x5.25" bay.


----------



## JackCY

About the Fractal R2 silent series 140mm fans that are included with FD R4 and probably most FD cases, are they crap?








1000rpm, 11 blades, do they have a power to suck air through the air filters? Seems like it harms them a lot. Mine also tend to vibrate a little and make a little bit of "clicking" noise.

My other fans are Gelid Silent 14, price $5 per piece, 7 blades, 1000rpm, quieter, smoother, smaller motor but more robust coils inside = less air lost and stronger parts?
Performance wise seem the same or almost the same as those FDs...

And FDs don't like to be used horizontally with fan down, such as case bottom intake, or case top exhaust.

What's the thing with having 11 blades or 7 blades or 5 blades fan?


----------



## watchthisspace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> About the Fractal R2 silent series 140mm fans that are included with FD R4 and probably most FD cases, are they crap?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1000rpm, 11 blades, do they have a power to suck air through the air filters? Seems like it harms them a lot. Mine also tend to vibrate a little and make a little bit of "clicking" noise.


I have the FD Arc Midi R2 and find the fans to be loud at 12v, when first cold booting one of them sounds like it's off kilter and vibrate a lot.

The front fans definitely don't pull a lot of air through with the air filter on.


----------



## R3apR369

Can't wait to get my ARC MINI R2!









...Anyone here attach an AX360 up top with Corsair SP120 fans in Push setup? I'm curious how the setup will look since I know the radiator/motherboard clearance isn't that much.

I'm also thinking of adding an AX240 at the front in Push/Pull.


----------



## jeffblute

I agree with you R3apR, I am also grabbing a Mini (selling my current rig to a friend) and plan doing a 360 in the top and 240 in the front. except I will be using the RX rads. I have seen other people do it because everything is offset, only thing I can think being a problem would be tall ram. So LP ram will be an obvious choice for this kind of build.


----------



## R3apR369

This is where I'm getting my inspiration to make the build work.











Now to decide if I wanna add a 240rad at the front, or to just set up my Aquacomputer Aqualis Res/Pump on the back-panel.


----------



## JackCY

Added foam pads to the bottom fan, some more on the case and secured with zipties on one side, rubber fan grommets on the other with an extra ziptie so it doesn't move up and down and keeps down.





Sad thing is, I just had to disconnect the TY147 CPU fan








It started to make some noise kind of like grinding something on one side, I don't know, seems like a single spot.
Running passive now with 4.5GHz instead of 4.6GHz








4.6GHz didn't like 87C during a test and froze, I think it's the darn 43 cache that just won't pass on 1.200V and randomly will cause a problem in extreme situations.

Passive runs 10C hotter when using the same CPU clock and voltage.

...ok so I read the TY147 is a sealed type fan and that it's prone to positional noises, it might or might not go away. Guess I could turn it around or let it run somewhere in another room


----------



## Wezzor

JackCY there is really no point with a bottom fan for me it just added more noise than cooling. I tested once with and without and the difference was 2c and since you've cables like that over the fan I guess it makes even less difference for you. This is how mine looks the only thing I need to get now is damping material where you have your bottom fan.


----------



## JackCY

And running the ASUS R9 280x DC2T without the cover is disadvantageous, put it back and the core runs barely 1C hotter but the VRM1 runs up to 7C cooler. The VRM fan needs pressure.

Running without the IO shield, some air gets sucked in :/ especially at the nearest point to the outtake fan. I didn't like the IO shield, the case is a tiny bit off and it was to one side of the ports all the way, maybe couldn't plug in some of the video to motherboard of needed or almost.
Thought these openings would work as outtake but I was wrong, PCI slots are intake for GPU, part of IO is outtake part is intake, the vertical PCI slot is a decent outtake I think because air moves unobstructed from the front alongside the side panel, taped it closed for now so the air goes more to the GPU.

Graned the intake fans are not running fast since the CPU is cold.

Seems like for every fan inside the case one needs a decent intake fan to get anywhere near positive pressure.

Maybe I should ditch the outtake and use the fan as intake on the side panel, might not hurt CPU temps. that much and would likely help GPU a bit.

Thoughts and experiences?

Wezzor: yeah I will try it without the fan running and cover the bottom closed, then use it as side intake instead. I know the bottom position is rubbish mostly. I will make those raised feet anyway. Mine does not produce noise or not that I noticed, removed mesh and the fan is lifted a bit.

2C difference on max and 1.6C difference on average with bottom fan on/off, off is worse. Although my fans run only 430rpm or so, 30% set in UEFI, can go even lower but pointless they are near silent already.

Testing testing, at max speed of all fans except GPU, the single outtake fan overpowers three intakes with filters. Ridiculous.

Running the exhaust fan slower works too, I can even stop it when the computer is idling, it's connected as CPU2, well all my fans are CPU temp. controlled anyway, and 3pin fans I can stop if set below 25%, now it runs @ 25% = 324rpm, the intakes at 500rpm @ 35%, CPU cooler fan 456rpm @ 25%.
Keeping intakes 10% or more higher in speed should work for now.

Holy moly, those GPU fans on ASUS 280x DC2T when run via software at 100% do 3000rpm vacuum cleaner sound I thought they are going to break I turned it off in a second. They normally max out at 50% 1600rpm.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Wezzor: yeah I will try it without the fan running and cover the bottom closed, then use it as side intake instead.


If you now wanna go for side fan I actually think it would be better going with exhaust since you've a non-reference card.


----------



## JackCY

Yeah that might work for the Sapphire Tri-X cooler since it exhaust toward the side panel, on the long sides of the card.
The ASUS DC2T on the other hand exhaust toward connectors and then to the front-up of the case, on the short sides of the card.
I don't want to use the side fan yet because I don't have a filter for it. Plus would also like another extension cable so it's easy to plug in and out. Only have one and that hosts both of the front fans. None of my three regulated 3 pin connectors are easy to access but they are strong enough to run 0.5A or so with some limit even higher, it has some smart controller for each fan output, can ran 2-4 regular fans from one port no worries.
Gotta check if I can snag another extension splitter for cheap on eBay.

Any place that could sell a plastic mesh the kind used in window screens against insect etc.?


----------



## pkrexer

Didn't realize how restrictive the air filters are. I was having a hard time keeping my temps below 60c after adding my 2nd 290x. Removed the air filters on my Midi R2 and my temps dropped a good 8-10c.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Didn't realize how restrictive the air filters are. I was having a hard time keeping my temps below 60c after adding my 2nd 290x. Removed the air filters on my Midi R2 and my temps dropped a good 8-10c.


Yes they are, but what fans do you have blowing through your rads?


----------



## pkrexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Yes they are, but what fans do you have blowing through your rads?


GT ap15's


----------



## JackCY

Yes the filters block as much as a mesh if not more. Having both mesh and an air filter is crazy you might just as well tape the intake closed.

lol, actually my bottom fan is closed now, removed feet and case sits dead flat








Making higher ones, tomorrow.

PSU runs passive, I wonder how but it does, guess the efficiency and extra power capacity allows it to run passive for normal loads of a single GPU PC.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yes the filters block as much as a mesh if not more. Having both mesh and an air filter is crazy you might just as well tape the intake closed.


That's why I bought static pressure fans from Noctua they're doing an excellent job!


----------



## JackCY

Yeah good fans don't lose as much airflow and have a push and pull strength, problem is they cost 4 times more.
What are good static pressure fans in the 140mm size? There are too many Noctuas IMHO, hard to tell which one is for what.

I don't see any static pressure Noctuas in 140mm, everything under 2mm H2O except NF-F12s and the iPPCs.

Would probably buy this instead:


Not that reasonably priced either though and hard to get.

What's up with the Corsair AP SP or something fans? When ever I see them they cost like $40 bucks and I'm not even sure that's a price for 2 fans...


----------



## Wezzor

I bought the Noctua redux series. The only difference from these and the other noctua fans if I remember correctly (except for the industrialPPC) is that the redux series just have much less accessories (comes with 4 screws only) and that the packaging it comes with is less solid.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> I bought the Noctua redux series. The only difference from these and the other noctua fans if I remember correctly (except for the industrialPPC) is that the redux series just have much less accessories (comes with 4 screws only) and that the packaging it comes with is less solid.


Yeah I know, they are supposed to be more affordable by omitting the accessories. Still cost nearly $20 a piece and are hard to get, can't find stock and not much in shops yet. The reason they have more pressure in specs is because they spin up to 1500rpm vs the regular 1000rpm, is all, I doubt they will magically push/pull more air at equal rpm through restricted outtake/intake, quieter yes possibly.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah good fans don't lose as much airflow and have a push and pull strength, problem is they cost 4 times more.
> What are good static pressure fans in the 140mm size? There are too many Noctuas IMHO, hard to tell which one is for what.
> 
> I don't see any static pressure Noctuas in 140mm, everything under 2mm H2O except NF-F12s and the iPPCs.


Noctua a-14, static pressure is much more than 2. I also have 2 sp120's and they seem okay


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Yeah I know, they are supposed to be more affordable by omitting the accessories. Still cost nearly $20 a piece and are hard to get, can't find stock and not much in shops yet. The reason they have more pressure in specs is because they spin up to 1500rpm vs the regular 1000rpm, is all, I doubt they will magically push/pull more air at equal rpm through restricted outtake/intake, quieter yes possibly.


You're way too picky man.







I couldn't be more happy with my fans atleast. They're quite and make an excellent job cooling my components.







I know they might not be the cheapest fans on the market but I prefer buying quality and know that the fans will work for many many years.


----------



## JackCY

Custom R4 feet.
Finally found a piece of rubber just when I was going to cut some hard wood.
Not that it was the best choice as rubber is harder to cut into round shape but kind of easier than endless hours of making four hard wood blocks round.
Might have worked in a drill, who knows, rubber didn't but rubber dampens, wood doesn't.






The bottom fan does intake air nicely and this higher height helps it to have a chance to get that air easily.
The original feet are way too low.


----------



## Wezzor

Looks good! But didn't you say that you'll skip the bottom fan?


----------



## JackCY

Don't have a filter for the side panel and all.
Plus the bottom fan works and does intake well, so why get rid of it.

Am rather thinking of how to sell the useless FD fans that are a little clicky and buy some other fans instead.

---

And the Power and HDD LED:


----------



## CoolGuy90

Have any of you guys put a Corsair AF140MM in the front of the Arc series?


----------



## Saviour

Hello,

I am currently modding a Define XL R2.
Can someone with the same case help me with measurments shown on this picture?


http://imgur.com/S3dQWiX


Thank you!


----------



## R3apR369

Man, I just can't decide on how I wanna set up my next build. I've been debating between having a ut60 360rad up top and the ut60 240rad in the front, and somehow fit the Aquacomputer Aqualis Reservoir/Pump inbetween the front rad and my GPU, OR....just pick up 2 ut60 240rads, and get the XSPC v2 bay Reservoir/Pump combo.

Oh, theirs also the idea of just using 1 360 rad, so that I can place the pump/reservoir anywhere near the front, which could look pretty nice.

What to do......









You know what.....I think I want to do this as my next build. It's so damn beautiful!

*Built by Malik*


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saviour*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am currently modding a Define XL R2.
> Can someone with the same case help me with measurments shown on this picture?
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/S3dQWiX
> 
> 
> Thank you!



There you go!


----------



## Saviour

Thank you very much!


----------



## 17jotinha




----------



## JackCY

Swapping the top rear exhaust to top front intake might get you better temps.
1 exhaust fan in the rear is more than enough. The two front intakes with filters won't keep up with it at equal RPM. Let alone with two exhaust fans. You're running negative pressure most likely unless the fan RPMs/airflow are very different.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Swapping the top rear exhaust to top front intake might get you better temps.
> 1 exhaust fan in the rear is more than enough. The two front intakes with filters won't keep up with it at equal RPM. Let alone with two exhaust fans. You're running negative pressure most likely unless the fan RPMs/airflow are very different.


Yepp, I gotta agree with JackCY. I'd also add a fan filter especially for top intake.


----------



## Dimensive

Does anyone have the Arc Mini R2 and the Node 804? I'm curious to see a side-by-side comparison.


----------



## JackCY

FD has pics from all angles and sizes there.
In volume R2 mini is larger by a tiny bit.

They are two different cases, one is a tower, one is cube, simple choice really. What one has in height the other has in width.


----------



## Series60

Hello!
First PC assembly, what do you think?
Fractal Design Define Mini


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Series60*
> 
> Hello!
> First PC assembly, what do you think?
> Fractal Design Define Mini


Looks good! The only thing I'd consider is to get rid of the hdd cage since it block alot of airflow.


----------



## Series60

and then where would I put the hdd?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Series60*
> 
> and then where would I put the hdd?


Get creative! Velcro mount it to the floor, or buy a bracket to mount it in the 5.25 bays.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> bracket to mount it in the 5.25 bays.


Yup, this here is what to do.


----------



## Series60

can you link me a sample please?
thankyou


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Series60*
> 
> can you link me a sample please?
> thankyou


Which site do you buy from? Would you also want the adapter to fit ssd's? Myself I have an adapter that can fit 2 ssd and 1 hdd.

This one:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverstone-SST-SDP10B-Converter-5-25-plus/dp/B00CK0HU4W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817997056


----------



## ekg84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Series60*
> 
> can you link me a sample please?
> thankyou


This
or
This


----------



## Series60

thanks guys


----------



## shanker

Waiting for the Swiftech Komodo for my reference 290.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Series60*
> 
> and then where would I put the hdd?


*Here: <-- click this link*



Either the side hanging, bottom on foam, 5.25" bay hanging and or foam.
Those metal 5.25" to 3.5" reducers I have some at home from older PCs, throwing them around unused. From times when 3.5" mounts weren't that common or many in cases.

I would suggest suspension as it takes all vibrations away and the movement of the HDD won't get amplified via the case.


----------



## joeh4384

After helping my buddy do some work on his case, I really appreciate using a good case like my Arc-Midi. It weighed like 100 pounds, had no where to route cables and all the fans had to be connected to the PSU so it sounded like a jet engine. I installed a 295x2, 290x and new psu in my arc-midi rig the same day and it was night and day working in a good case.



















.


----------



## smoke2

I would like to ask owners of EVGA G2 PSU and Define R4.
I would like to buy EVGA G2 750W PSU.
Could it be next to this PSU mounted 140mm fan on the bottom place or there is then only space for 120mm fan?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I would like to ask owners of EVGA G2 PSU and Define R4.
> I would like to buy EVGA G2 750W PSU.
> Could it be next to this PSU mounted 140mm fan on the bottom place or there is then only space for 120mm fan?


There is only space for an 120mm fan sadly.


----------



## Yuriewitsch

OK, this is how looks my (finally finished) Arc Midi.









*Case:* Fractal Design Arc Midi (3x 140mm be quiet! Pure Wings 2)
*PSU:* Corsair RM750
*MB:* MSI Z87 MPOWER SP
*CPU:* Intel Core i7-4790K
*CPU cooler:* Scythe Mugen 4 (2x 120mm be quiet! Pure Wings 2)
*GPU:* Sapphire R9 290 + AC Accelero Xtreme IV + VRM mod
*RAM:* Crucial Ballistix Tactical LP 4x4GB
*SSD:* Samsung 840 Evo 250GB
*HDD:* Seagate Barracuda 4TB + Silentmaxx


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yuriewitsch*
> 
> OK, this is how looks my (finally finished) Arc Midi.


I like your build, very clean! Might I ask what you used as a dust filter on the front?


----------



## Yuriewitsch

Thx,
I use this DEMCiflex filter:
http://www.demcifilter.com/p0033/Double-140mm-ID-Computer-Dust-Filter.aspx


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yuriewitsch*
> 
> Thx,
> I use this DEMCiflex filter:
> http://www.demcifilter.com/p0033/Double-140mm-ID-Computer-Dust-Filter.aspx


Nice, thanks a lot!


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> There is only space for an 120mm fan sadly.


And are you using the PSU in semi-fanless mode or in normal mode?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> And are you using the PSU in semi-fanless mode or in normal mode?


Semi-fanless. They're even recommending that in the manual that you should be using that.


----------



## Dimensive

The Fractal Design Core 3500 goes on sale today for $60 at Newegg between 6:00 and 11:59 pm PDT.

http://tinyurl.com/po4t3ot


----------



## shanker

I just realized how restrictive the filters are on the front and top of the Define Mini R2.

I looped the Valley benchmark for thirty minutes at 1440P with everything maxed with a 4670K and R290 both under water and stock with an H220X. With the fans and pump at 100% the CPU got to 58 degrees and the GPU to 64 degrees. While still running I took the plate off the front and the top off the case. The temps dropped to 45 degrees for the CPU and 51 degrees for the GPU and held until I got bored thirty minutes later.

just an observation....


----------



## mille

yup the filters are pretty restrictive, to fix this on the top side i cut a 120x240 hole just big enough for the h100i,
that way i still got the filter in there for looks but its not restricting my exhaust flow

i hate how the thing looks with no filters at all


----------



## Sr20baby

Hello guys.

I'm new here, have been a long time follower








There are some amazing cases in this thread.

I built a new pc a few months ago and I reused my define r4, and yesterday I received my arc midi r2 as I wanted better rad support for the future builds etc, but I'm a little disappointed as when I finished the build and went to put the dust cover back on the roof of the case, I found a couple of the clips broken so it no longer closers properly







my define r4 has been great has anyone ever had that happen to them?


----------



## iRUSH

Here's my recent Fractal Core 1000 build. I've always like this case for its simplicity and since it's so cheap, I don't mind experimenting with modifications.

It's my sig rig.


----------



## SKRiPTT

So, Here's my new Fractal Define R4 Artic White build









Components:
*Case:* Fractal Define R4 Artic White
*CPU:* AMD FX 6300 @4,8Ghz 1.4V
*CPU Cooler:* Prolimatech Megahalems Blue + 2x Noiseblocker Multiframe M12-PS
*MB:* ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0
*GPU:* MSI R9 270X Gaming 2G +OC
*RAM:* Kingston HyperXblu 8GB (4x2GB) DDR3 1600MHz
*PSU:* Seasonic S12II-620
*SSD:* Samsung 840 EVO 250GB


----------



## Yuriewitsch

Very nice, simple, clean.


----------



## shanker

Added the second radiator to the H220X. I have 7 PWM fans and two 240mm radiators running full blast and I looped the Valley Demo at 1440P maxed and my stock 4670K and Asus 290 wouldn't go over 37/39 degrees Celsius. Arc Mini R2

Now to learn how to overclock them! Anything worth doing is worth overdoing!


----------



## iRUSH

Good looking builds fellas!


----------



## sigilens

Nice and clean build Skriptt







The only thing you need to get rid off imho is the plastic hdd case slide.
You can screw that out with this type of screwdriver


----------



## Theminatar

How do I go about mounting my HDD's to the 5.25 trays? I want to get rid of my cages, they look very ugly.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theminatar*
> 
> How do I go about mounting my HDD's to the 5.25 trays? I want to get rid of my cages, they look very ugly.


Buy an adapter.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverstone-SST-SDP10B-Converter-5-25-plus/dp/B00CK0HU4W
I'm using one myself as you can see on the picture.


----------



## SKRiPTT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sigilens*
> 
> Nice and clean build Skriptt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing you need to get rid off imho is the plastic hdd case slide.
> You can screw that out with this type of screwdriver


Thx man!







Done!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theminatar*
> 
> How do I go about mounting my HDD's to the 5.25 trays? I want to get rid of my cages, they look very ugly.


I'm using this:




But u can buy it only in Slovakia..


----------



## Daark

is it possible to have the d15 plus a 240 rad in pull in the top?


----------



## contay

Hey everyone! Just a quick question. I currenly have Define R2 (and Node304) but I am planning hardware update for Define rig later this year. Does R4 have better airflow than R2? I have potential buyer for R2 so I could upgrade the case as well, if it would give any significant advantages.

As both rigs have Gigabytes GTX760, I'll upgrade Nodes gpu and give SLI for Define. Same time I most likely upgrade my cpu from i5 to Xeon 1231v3.

So. Define case most likely can handle SLI setups heat with good cooling setup, but would R4 have any advantages over R2?


----------



## JackCY

It's still a metal box with holes for fans, does R4 have more fan positions than R2?
The airflow is restricted since it's a silent case, the air passes through filters and tight spaces.


----------



## contay

Well, I know it is silent but IMO air flows rather well in R2. And with removable HDD cages, I guess it would be even better in R4.

But. As SLI gets graphic cards close to each other, I've been thinking about AiO waterloops and Kraken G10 for GPUs and AiO loop for cpu. This Obvioysly needs three radiators.

So, is it possible to fit 2x120mm rads in top and one 240mm rad in front WITHOUT modding the case? I am quite sure I have see one such build before but I couldn't find it and couldn't verify if there was case modding or not. This is about R4.


----------



## Saviour

Hello guys,

I have Define XL R2 with custom made window. So I have 6 slots for 140 mm fans.
The case comes with 3x R2 140mm fans and I have bought 3 more.
Can you give me an advice how to use them, I mean which should intake and which should exhaust?

Thank you in advance!


----------



## contay

If I understand correctly, you have 1 Rear, 2 Top, 2 Front and 1 Bottom. Generally it is recommended rear and top as exhaust. Both front and bottom as Intake. You might want (YOU MUST HAVE) filter for bottom intake. If someone has better ideas, please share.


----------



## Saviour

That's correct. Thank you for your advice.
I use Sapphire R9 280X Dual-X which gets very hot sometimes and my CD/DVD Burner tends to get really hot too. Also when I open the front door I can feel that the heat is coming out which I guess is bad.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Well, I know it is silent but IMO air flows rather well in R2. And with removable HDD cages, I guess it would be even better in R4.
> 
> But. As SLI gets graphic cards close to each other, I've been thinking about AiO waterloops and Kraken G10 for GPUs and AiO loop for cpu. This Obvioysly needs three radiators.
> 
> So, is it possible to fit 2x120mm rads in top and one 240mm rad in front WITHOUT modding the case? I am quite sure I have see one such build before but I couldn't find it and couldn't verify if there was case modding or not. This is about R4.


You can fit 120 rads on rear and top, 240 can go in front.
The grills restrict air, the filters too and the intake through front does not have much space, I have removed the plastic extra internal door on mine, not sure if it helps give much more space but at least something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saviour*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have Define XL R2 with custom made window. So I have 6 slots for 140 mm fans.
> The case comes with 3x R2 140mm fans and I have bought 3 more.
> Can you give me an advice how to use them, I mean which should intake and which should exhaust?
> 
> Thank you in advance!


6 side slots for fans?








If you don't care about filtering or can get filters for them...

You have many options, 6 fans to use.

If you don't use front as intake and put many fans elsewhere as intake the air will escape via all holes in the case, even the front.

I would put one exhaust on rear behind the CPU. Open the PCIe slots.
Stuck 3 low on the side to blow on GPUs and put 2 as intake.

That might seem like a lot, but on my R4, 3 filtered intakes can barely keep up with one unrestricted, no grill, no filter rear exhaust.
I would suggest 1 intake fan for every in case fan that there is on CPU/GPU/...
Single fan to blow out hot air from CPU is fine, unless you have blowers, which dual-x is not there is no chance to suck hot GPU air out directly.

What do you mean hot? I have Asus 280x DC2T and 70C is normal, I would not worry up to 80C as it is all about what noise to temperature ratio you want, my fans spin something like 40% max = 1600rpm, I ran them on 100% and they ran crazy vacuum like 3000+rpm I thought they are going to rip apart what noise they made, so cooling performance there certainly is left. I don't think many fans on 280x run past 2000-2200rpm stock settings. Are the Dual-X maxing out temps and rpms?
Performance GPUs always run hot, hotter than CPUs.

I don't use CD/DVD for decades so dunno why worry about it's temps. never did. They are noisy, useless and yes do heat up since their design is simple cheap and they rotate way too fast.


----------



## Daark

I'd like to know if the r4 fits the d15 plus a 240 rad in pull in the top?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You can fit 120 rads on rear and top, 240 can go in front.
> The grills restrict air, the filters too and the intake through front does not have much space, I have removed the plastic extra internal door on mine, not sure if it helps give much more space but at least something.


So you can't put two 120mm rads on top tubing facing open side(non mobo side) of the case?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daark*
> 
> I'd like to know if the r4 fits the d15 plus a 240 rad in pull in the top?


If you tell me how thick the 240 rad I could check it out since own a D15.


----------



## Dantron

Hey guys, I got my XL R2 3 months ago and I love it; there's a slight issue though, the side panel on the right(If you are behind it) has the foam and the material on top is starting to peel. What should I do?


----------



## Daark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> If you tell me how thick the 240 rad I could check it out since own a D15.


it's 27 mm and i typed wrong, i meant 280 c:


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daark*
> 
> it's 27 mm and i typed wrong, i meant 280 c:


This is measured without dampening-material. (It's in cm)


----------



## Daark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> This is measured without dampening-material. (It's in cm)


Thank you


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daark*
> 
> Thank you


No problemo.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> So you can't put two 120mm rads on top tubing facing open side(non mobo side) of the case?


There is plenty space on top if height is not an issue somehow. It fits 2x 140mm by default or 2x 120 in various positions, plus you can always create more positions yourself to offset or something. There are 2x 140mm fans centered on top right next to each other with a bit of space in between maybe 1/4" or 5mm.
You can fit 2 with tubing facing left side panel I think there is like 2" on each side roughly looking at it.
Not sure how much or why 120mm or 140mm rads etc. overhang the dimension so I guess they are something like 140x120mm rads (120)? or 260x120mm (240) is better to say when talking about radiators because 120 is 120x120mm and it seems many rads are bigger than these square fan dimensions.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> There is plenty space on top if height is not an issue somehow. It fits 2x 140mm by default or 2x 120 in various positions, plus you can always create more positions yourself to offset or something. There are 2x 140mm fans centered on top right next to each other with a bit of space in between maybe 1/4" or 5mm.
> You can fit 2 with tubing facing left side panel I think there is like 2" on each side roughly looking at it.
> Not sure how much or why 120mm or 140mm rads etc. overhang the dimension so I guess they are something like 140x120mm rads (120)? or 260x120mm (240) is better to say when talking about radiators because 120 is 120x120mm and it seems many rads are bigger than these square fan dimensions.


Actually quoted as 120.2(240) or 140.2(280) When dealing with rads it not so much the rad but the rad and fans or fans. You have to measure the full thickness.


----------



## contay

Well I unpacked R4 yesterday and started moving hardware from R2. And thickness is what worries me. But I keep measuring and post pic or two with current build. Rads will come if sli overheats when mounted. (After I upgrade other rig and get spare Gtx760).


----------



## JackCY

760s overheat? I would use a side fan to blow on the cards. I don't think 760s are worth water cooling. Something like 290s or 780s can be.


----------



## contay

Gigabytes GTX760 hasn't gone over 65C while gaming. But I am little worried about when there is two of them SLI. I've been thinking Kraken G10 bracket+AiO loop. Of course I try first with best reasonable priced (and not too noisy) case fans to create enough airflow. But it is for later this year/early spring. Still, thanks for help with rad clearance









Edit: I just forgot. Side fan should be exhaust for gigabytes cards. Air is pulled from down and pushed sideways away from card. But side fan is not really and option on my current desk, as Case is located next to the wall


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 760s overheat? I would use a side fan to blow on the cards. I don't think 760s are worth water cooling. Something like 290s or 780s can be.


I agree.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Gigabytes GTX760 hasn't gone over 65C while gaming. But I am little worried about when there is two of them SLI. I've been thinking Kraken G10 bracket+AiO loop. Of course I try first with best reasonable priced (and not too noisy) case fans to create enough airflow. But it is for later this year/early spring. Still, thanks for help with rad clearance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I just forgot. Side fan should be exhaust for gigabytes cards. Air is pulled from down and pushed sideways away from card. But side fan is not really and option on my current desk, as Case is located next to the wall


You shouldn't be worried at all with that kind of temperature especially not when running the cards in SLI.


----------



## mrrockwell

Guess you can call it finished.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> I agree.
> You shouldn't be worried at all with that kind of temperature especially not when running the cards in SLI.


I know. But I am worried what temps will be when I set SLI.


----------



## fugo67

Hi mrrockwell,

can you please tell me, what kind of corsair watercooling did you used?


----------



## s3nzftw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fugo67*
> 
> Hi mrrockwell,
> 
> can you please tell me, what kind of corsair watercooling did you used?


H100i


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I know. But I am worried what temps will be when I set SLI.


Don't you know anyone that can borrow you a card so you can check out what temps you get? If not try to find a really cheap 760 from ebay or something should be plenty out there.


----------



## Wezzor

mrrockwell
That looks stunning!


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Don't you know anyone that can borrow you a card so you can check out what temps you get? If not try to find a really cheap 760 from ebay or something should be plenty out there.


I own 2 identical GIgabyte GTX760s, but my mobo (ASRock B85 Pro) doesn't support SLI. I'll get new mobo and possibly cpu when I replace Nodes GPU and thus having spare GTX760 for R4.

But now you mentioned it, could I mount both 760s on board and run some program to test temperatures even they are NOT in SLI? Because if both run at maximum, heat production would be approximately same as running SLI at maximum power.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I own 2 identical GIgabyte GTX760s, but my mobo (ASRock B85 Pro) doesn't support SLI. I'll get new mobo and possibly cpu when I replace Nodes GPU and thus having spare GTX760 for R4.
> 
> But now you mentioned it, could I mount both 760s on board and run some program to test temperatures even they are NOT in SLI? Because if both run at maximum, heat production would be approximately same as running SLI at maximum power.


Yes, you can run two cards without SLI . One card atttached to one monitor will render the frames for that monitor and the other card will render frames for the other monitor. However, the cards will not run synchronized, so what you see on one card is not what you'll see on the other card. You'll never get both cards to work together for rendering frames. So you can basically run two games on each card/monitor and check the temps.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Yes, you can run two cards without SLI . One card atttached to one monitor will render the frames for that monitor and the other card will render frames for the other monitor. However, the cards will not run synchronized, so what you see on one card is not what you'll see on the other card. You'll never get both cards to work together for rendering frames. So you can basically run two games on each card/monitor and check the temps.


Hmm, would some cryptocoin mining be perfect test, as they usually operate on non-SLI/non-crossfire?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Hmm, would some cryptocoin mining be perfect test, as they usually operate on non-SLI/non-crossfire?


Should be fine.







Myself I'd go for 2 heavy games.


----------



## HappyPunter

Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread, its been very helpful for me to make a decision to buy a new case. I have decided to buy a ARC MIDI R2, which should be a nice upgrade on my dated cooler master praetorian.

I was also thinking of upgrading the case fans and adding one more, and I do realise that a lot has been said on that subject in this thread, but I'm still not sure what type of fans to get or how to set them up. Would Static pressure case fans be good at the front of the case as the front panel is in front of them? Should I just go all static pressure fans for intake? (Will have one intake from underneath) And the 1 exhaust fan out the back, is it worth just having that static too just so all the fans sound similar or am i over thinking this too much now?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Myself I'd go for 2 heavy games.


2x FurMark will do the job if it can run on both cards, not sure how some applications/games handle multiple outputs if you could really run two games or they would both force themselves on one card with the primary monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyPunter*
> 
> Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread, its been very helpful for me to make a decision to buy a new case. I have decided to buy a ARC MIDI R2, which should be a nice upgrade on my dated cooler master praetorian.
> 
> I was also thinking of upgrading the case fans and adding one more, and I do realise that a lot has been said on that subject in this thread, but I'm still not sure what type of fans to get or how to set them up. Would Static pressure case fans be good at the front of the case as the front panel is in front of them? Should I just go all static pressure fans for intake? (Will have one intake from underneath) And the 1 exhaust fan out the back, is it worth just having that static too just so all the fans sound similar or am i over thinking this too much now?


Static pressure fans all the way if you can pay for them. Exhaust doesn't matter, but any fan that has some filter, grill, rad, ... should have decent static pressure otherwise they drop in airflow more.
Although even cheap silent fans are enough and sometimes better than the Fractal fans :/


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyPunter*
> 
> Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread, its been very helpful for me to make a decision to buy a new case. I have decided to buy a ARC MIDI R2, which should be a nice upgrade on my dated cooler master praetorian.
> 
> I was also thinking of upgrading the case fans and adding one more, and I do realise that a lot has been said on that subject in this thread, but I'm still not sure what type of fans to get or how to set them up. Would Static pressure case fans be good at the front of the case as the front panel is in front of them? Should I just go all static pressure fans for intake? (Will have one intake from underneath) And the 1 exhaust fan out the back, is it worth just having that static too just so all the fans sound similar or am i over thinking this too much now?


It comes with three 140mm fans (top, front, rear)? I'd go with rear and two in front. Maybe additional intake in bottom. I am not an expert, but from what I have learnt is this: Good combination of airflow and statick pressure, not just one. Huge 200mm fans with near zero pressure are not good. Also, go with more intakes than exhaust. Positive pressure (intake>exhaust) also helps a little keeping dust out, as "extra" air goes from all those tiny holes in your case. If intake is less than exhaust, air is drawn from those same holes and dust within.

Noctuas are of course always good, silent choice. But, they are expensive and you might find them little bit of overrated. Fractals own silent series r2 fans are not that bad (same goes with all similiary priced fans), but don't expect miracles.

But, all in one sentence: Put one stock fan rear, two in front and see what your temps are.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 2x FurMark will do the job if it can run on both cards, not sure how some applications/games handle multiple outputs if you could really run two games or they would both force themselves on one card with the primary monitor.
> Static pressure fans all the way if you can pay for them. Exhaust doesn't matter, but any fan that has some filter, grill, rad, ... should have decent static pressure otherwise they drop in airflow more.
> Although even cheap silent fans are enough and sometimes better than the Fractal fans :/


I'll see it on some day if FurMark works.

Anyway, static pressure is more important in cpu fans or on radiator fans. Or if there is lots of stuff in front of airflow, lets say hdd-rack. CM JetFlo was rated good and not too costly fan with good pressure in this cooling guide here little while ago.


----------



## HappyPunter

Thanks for the replies. Was thinking of getting some of the beautiful Noctuas. Just copied this from their site.

"NF-S12A: The NF-S12A has been optimised for "low impedance" applications that don't require high static pressure and thus combines moderate pressure with outstanding airflow and superb quietness of operation. Choose the NF-S12A for case ventilation, applications with little or no obstruction to airflow as well as all other applications where minimum noise emission has first priority.

NF-P12: The NF-P12 has been designed with more pressure demanding "high impedance" applications in mind. It provides an even balance of high static pressure, high airflow and excellent quietness, which has made it a standard choice for low noise CPU cooling, cases with tight fan grills and other low noise cooling applications with mid- to high airflow resistance.

NF-F12: The NF-F12's unique Focused Flow™ system produces extremely high static pressure and focuses the airflow in order to achieve even better results on air cooling heatsinks and water cooling radiators. With a top speed of 1500rpm, it also offers more performance headroom for less noise-sensitive applications. Choose the NF-F12 if you're looking for the best possible performance on heatsinks and radiators. "

So maybe the NF-P12 would be a good ones to go for intakes? And The NF-S12A as the single exhaust? Anyone used any of these?


----------



## Wezzor

I went for Noctua redux serie (static pressure fans) and couldn't be more happy. They aren't so expensive either in my opinion for being Noctua.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> I went for Noctua redux serie (static pressure fans) and couldn't be more happy. They aren't so expensive either in my opinion for being Noctua.


Redux fans are basically same as nonredux of same model. Different color and no additional stuff (adapter etc) in package. They are sure on my list when choosing upgrade!


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Redux fans are basically same as nonredux of same model. Different color and no additional stuff (adapter etc) in package. They are sure on my list when choosing upgrade!


Exactly why I bought them.


----------



## HappyPunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> I went for Noctua redux serie (static pressure fans) and couldn't be more happy. They aren't so expensive either in my opinion for being Noctua.


Yeah they do look interesting at that price. its the 140mm ones that are static pressure for redux? Thing is I was thinking of using the in-line resistors for the normal Noctua fans as I don't have a fan controller and I don't want to put the fans on the MB.


----------



## Tasm

My nasty bastard...Fractal FTW


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Exactly why I bought them.


Which model exactly did you use?


----------



## mrrockwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s3nzftw*
> 
> H100i


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Which model exactly did you use?


Check out my Dreamcatcher build


----------



## ElectricDevil

Dang that heatsink is huuuge


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyPunter*
> 
> Thanks for the replies. Was thinking of getting some of the beautiful Noctuas. Just copied this from their site.
> 
> "NF-S12A: The NF-S12A has been optimised for "low impedance" applications that don't require high static pressure and thus combines moderate pressure with outstanding airflow and superb quietness of operation. Choose the NF-S12A for case ventilation, applications with little or no obstruction to airflow as well as all other applications where minimum noise emission has first priority.
> 
> NF-P12: The NF-P12 has been designed with more pressure demanding "high impedance" applications in mind. It provides an even balance of high static pressure, high airflow and excellent quietness, which has made it a standard choice for low noise CPU cooling, cases with tight fan grills and other low noise cooling applications with mid- to high airflow resistance.
> 
> NF-F12: The NF-F12's unique Focused Flow™ system produces extremely high static pressure and focuses the airflow in order to achieve even better results on air cooling heatsinks and water cooling radiators. With a top speed of 1500rpm, it also offers more performance headroom for less noise-sensitive applications. Choose the NF-F12 if you're looking for the best possible performance on heatsinks and radiators. "
> 
> So maybe the NF-P12 would be a good ones to go for intakes? And The NF-S12A as the single exhaust? Anyone used any of these?


S - forward fan, exhaust without a grill
P - regular case fan
F - static pressure fan for heatsinks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyPunter*
> 
> Yeah they do look interesting at that price. its the 140mm ones that are static pressure for redux? Thing is I was thinking of using the in-line resistors for the normal Noctua fans as I don't have a fan controller and I don't want to put the fans on the MB.


P14 redux, probably the one from Noctua worth buying. I don't get this Noctua hype, the few % of better performance are not worth double or triple of their price.
You can often equip a whole case with fans instead of buying one Noctua fan...

Why not use mobo? These days mobo makes fan controllers obsolete when you can setup your fans with mobo. Decent boards have enough 3pin and 4pin connectors to cover 6 fans and set speed for each individually plus if need be use a splitter, unless the mobo maker cheaped out it will support 4 fans on one connection easily, you can always look up the fan controller and see what it can handle.


----------



## HappyPunter

Thanks JackCY... Im a bit confused on using the MB headers. A few years ago some tech fella told me not to not use them as the power draw off the MB can shorten the life. But its possible to use some of the headers and power it from the psu? That sounds like a good option if it can be done. I dropped the Noctua idea now and think I will try some CM Jetflos.


----------



## JackCY

Shorten life of what? The fan headers are designed to power fans








I looked up the specs of the parts used on mine and a single 3pin regulated fan header can handle 0.5A minimum and has all sorts of protections to not get overloaded or overheated.
Sure you probably don't want to run industrial fans that eat 1-3A from a MB fan header but then they don't come with MB connections anyway and you connect those to PSU directly and maybe use the rpm reporting wire and connect it to the MB.

Plus most fans are rated as maximum current, I measured mine and the FD fans max out at 0.15A or something. My Gelid fans at 0.08A. Around half of what they rate them.

Just hook them up to MB and set the fan profile you like in UEFI. Some MBs may not be able to regulate the speed of all fan headers though, depends what they cheaped out on.
You can run a 3pin fan on a 4pin header but it will most likely be regulated only as 4pin and run at max speed all the time. Most 4pin fans will run and be regulated fine on 3pin headers.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyPunter*
> 
> Thanks JackCY... Im a bit confused on using the MB headers. A few years ago some tech fella told me not to not use them as the power draw off the MB can shorten the life. But its possible to use some of the headers and power it from the psu? That sounds like a good option if it can be done. I dropped the Noctua idea now and think I will try some CM Jetflos.


You alwayscould invest in a fan controller. But you should be fine with the motherboard headers. I had to invest in one for mine since I have 8 Fans and water cooled .

Noctuas are ugly but quite and push serious air.


----------



## HappyPunter

Yeah I was confused how the PWM fans work on the motherboard headers but doyll explained them to me very well in another thread, so I got a bit more understanding now. I will run them off the motherboard with a splitter or fan hub as there will just be 5 fans total. I want the 5 inch bays for the hard drives. Thanks for the ideas.

Still not decided on the fans yet. Maybe the Noctua REDUX-1500-PWM 140mm.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyPunter*
> 
> Yeah I was confused how the PWM fans work on the motherboard headers but doyll explained them to me very well in another thread, so I got a bit more understanding now. I will run them off the motherboard with a splitter or fan hub as there will just be 5 fans total. I want the 5 inch bays for the hard drives. Thanks for the ideas.
> 
> Still not decided on the fans yet. Maybe the Noctua REDUX-1500-PWM 140mm.


Why so many fans?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

5 is about right, depending on what you are doing







. You can probably get away with three or four if youre only gaming/surfing. I need five because everything gets pretty hot when you Fold.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HappyPunter*
> 
> Yeah I was confused how the PWM fans work on the motherboard headers but doyll explained them to me very well in another thread, so I got a bit more understanding now. I will run them off the motherboard with a splitter or fan hub as there will just be 5 fans total. I want the 5 inch bays for the hard drives. Thanks for the ideas.
> 
> Still not decided on the fans yet. Maybe the Noctua REDUX-1500-PWM 140mm.


If youre not hung up on having all the same fans and decide you need that many fans, you could get some of the white Square framed Phanteks to go in the front, or the Noctuas and use these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=thermalright%20ty%20147

in the bottom/top/back where they will fit. They are cheap in the U.K at least and I can highly recommend them. Unfortunately you have to have square framed fans in the front positions or you cant get more then one in, without getting a drill out at least.

http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-26/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html#

Have a look above the TY141 which is the same design as the 147, (I own some of both) . (Same rated specs from Thermalright), moves more air then the Noctuas as tested by HW.FR and most of the others except the Cryorigs IIRC.

Just some food for thought.


----------



## Anateus

Guys, help please. How do I remove 5.25" trays from Arc midi r2? Do i need some kind of metal cutter?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Guys, help please. How do I remove 5.25" trays from Arc midi r2? Do i need some kind of metal cutter?


Are they tightened with rivets? You should be able to drill them away carefully.

Edit: found some offsite threads and usually drilling rivets off was solution.


----------



## HappyPunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Why so many fans?


Front intake x2
Bottom intake x1
Rear exhaust x1
Cpu Heatsink fan x1

I Could put the in line restrictor on the cpu fan and run that off the system 4 pin maybe?

Thanks for recommending the fans Slink3Slyde. doyll also mentioned the TY 141 and 147s yesterday to me. What are they like when mounted at the bottom of a case? I think the redux has SSO bearings and prolly marketing gibberish i got sucked into... but would they perform better than some fans from that position because of them?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

I'm using the 147's right now on the bottom of my case at the front top intake as well as rear exhaust ive used them in this orientation over a year now and they perform pretty well as far as I'm concerned whatever orientation. I do have my R2 on a little trolley I made to keep it off the floor which helps the bottom fan to intake and keeps out the dust a bit.

I'm afraid I can't tell you how good the reduxs are in comparison as I haven't used them. I bought my TY 147 for £5 each though. And I doubt the Noctuas are 3 or four times better. From what I know: Noctuas are not the best performing fans, but they perform reasonably well, from what tests ive seen, they are the quietest and very well built.


----------



## smoke2

I would like to ask the owners of Define R4 with Sapphire Tri-X 290 or 290X cards, if the bottom fan, next to PSU helps to lower temps down and how much?
I had 14cm fan on the bottom, but my PSU broke down and I ordered EVGA G2 750 which is 1cm longer and I cannot then fit the 14cm fan next to it, but must to buy 12cm.
It's worth to have fan on the bottom?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I would like to ask the owners of Define R4 with Sapphire Tri-X 290 or 290X cards, if the bottom fan, next to PSU helps to lower temps down and how much?
> I had 14cm fan on the bottom, but my PSU broke down and I ordered EVGA G2 750 which is 1cm longer and I cannot then fit the 14cm fan next to it, but must to buy 12cm.
> It's worth to have fan on the bottom?


Nope, it's not even worth with 140mm . The only time I'd consider a bottom fan in this case is if I had sli or crossfire.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Nope, it's not even worth with 140mm . The only time I'd consider a bottom fan in this case is if I had sli or crossfire.


Or when you have most of your HDD slots used and frontal fans are "blocked". I put one spare 120 Fractals stock fan (silent series r2) in bottom for test and didn't really notice any changes in temperatures. But as Wezzor said, only if you have multiple GPUs or or HDDs so many they block airflow from front.

Same thing with the sidefan, it is usually worth only when you have multiple GPUs. And it's always exhaust!


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Or when you have most of your HDD slots used and frontal fans are "blocked". I put one spare 120 Fractals stock fan (silent series r2) in bottom for test and didn't really notice any changes in temperatures. But as Wezzor said, only if you have multiple GPUs or or HDDs so many they block airflow from front.
> 
> Same thing with the sidefan, it is usually worth only when you have multiple GPUs. And it's always exhaust!













Anyway smoke2 this is how mine looks (Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X and EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W). Temps are really great and couldn't be more happier. If you're intrested in getting the same adapter as me here it is: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverstone-SST-SDP10B-Converter-5-25-plus/dp/B00CK0HU4W.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> 5 is about right, depending on what you are doing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can probably get away with three or four if youre only gaming/surfing. I need five because everything gets pretty hot when you Fold.
> If youre not hung up on having all the same fans and decide you need that many fans, you could get some of the white Square framed Phanteks to go in the front, or the Noctuas and use these:
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=thermalright%20ty%20147
> 
> in the bottom/top/back where they will fit. They are cheap in the U.K at least and I can highly recommend them. Unfortunately you have to have square framed fans in the front positions or you cant get more then one in, without getting a drill out at least.
> 
> http://www.hardware.fr/articles/886-26/recapitulatif-db-a-vs-cfm.html#
> 
> Have a look above the TY141 which is the same design as the 147, (I own some of both) . (Same rated specs from Thermalright), moves more air then the Noctuas as tested by HW.FR and most of the others except the Cryorigs IIRC.
> 
> Just some food for thought.


I have that one on my CPU cooler, HR-02, sometimes they can make a noise but it might go away after a while as it settles into the position. Mine got noisy when I turned the MB from flat to standing.
They run up to 1200-1300rpm. Push OK but are meant for CPU coolers and their dimensions are something like 140x150x25mm. Since they are round they don't block connectors on the MB like fan headers or CPU 8pin.
If they are cheap they are alright but are harder to find and harder to find cheap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I would like to ask the owners of Define R4 with Sapphire Tri-X 290 or 290X cards, if the bottom fan, next to PSU helps to lower temps down and how much?
> I had 14cm fan on the bottom, but my PSU broke down and I ordered EVGA G2 750 which is 1cm longer and I cannot then fit the 14cm fan next to it, but must to buy 12cm.
> It's worth to have fan on the bottom?


No idea I've only noticed something like 2C difference and am not sure if that was CPU or GPU. It will intake air in to help with positive pressure, that's for sure.
You can mount a 140mm fan even with EVGA G2 750. I did.
Look up my build pics in this thread or browse the gallery:




Zip tied one end that has foam on it and used rubber mounts on the other side that make it angled a little, you could use something else, foam, or cut the rubber mounts shorter if you want it more flat.
I don't have bottom nor rear grills in the case, cut them out. It helps more than anything to remove airflow restrictions.
Even when it's angled a little like this it still does suck a lot of air through the filter on bottom. Guess I was lazy to make more foam pads and didn't want to test out if it would make noise when close to the bottom since some part is a little blocked but shouldn't be much. Fans like to cause noise when their intake or exhaust is close to some restriction like grill, cooler fins as the air moves fast near the restrictions. Blow on your finger in a distance, nearly no noise, blow on it near your mouth and it will make hell of a noise, same with the fans and grills/restrictions.

And raise the case from ground if you're using the bottom fan. I made a custom higher feet.


----------



## contay

Nice looking rig there! Also, I like Macho too, way more cost effective than large noctua heat sinks. I have same cooler in my R4 : )


----------



## Slink3Slyde

I have three Ty's in my rig at the moment no noises here, I have 2 more as well one spare and one which makes a slight gritty bearing noise when led down flat. Always possible to get a bad one from any company.

They are easily available in U.K from several places. They do go out of stock because they are cheap and very good. I can't speak for the USA of course but in europe they are easy to find cheap.

Yes its a cooler fan. Cooler fans work better as intakes, especially on a R2 where the foam and grill are causing so much restriction. Silent fans are not worth a damn as intakes in my experience. The fractal case fans can't pull any air in at all case in point.

Thing is everyone makes a choice between noise and cooling performance and where you draw the line as to what is to noisy is highly subjective.









I believe Doyll has taken a hacksaw to some Ty's and made them fit up front in a define R2 I personally had a Gentle typhoon ap15 and Silverstone ap14 spare I managed to fit in together. Works great for me.


----------



## contay

If I'd like to invest for "future proof" fans, would NF-A14 PWN be most successful option? They are pricy yeah, but six years of warranty and all nice mix of flow rate, pressure and low noise profile is tempting. In this case future proof means long lasting fans I could later use with 280mm rad in front.

280mm rad should fit in R4 front if I remove HDD racks completely, correct? If 2x140mm fans are mounted in front of rad (push setup), rad can be tightened in the fans, correct?

Or should I got with 120mm fans for 240mm rad in future?

Also. 140mm fans would have later use as top exhaust (maybe with 2x140mm rads for AiO loops+kraken g10 for sli), so getting them now as temporary frontal fans is an option if 240mm will be mounted in front.

This is long term plan yeah, but so is six years of warranty.


----------



## BenJaminJr

I have a14s and I plan on mounting a 280mm rad to the front also soon. I got them because I am a noctua fan, but I also have sp120s on my h220x.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> If I'd like to invest for "future proof" fans, would NF-A14 PWN be most successful option? They are pricy yeah, but six years of warranty and all nice mix of flow rate, pressure and low noise profile is tempting. In this case future proof means long lasting fans I could later use with 280mm rad in front.
> 
> 280mm rad should fit in R4 front if I remove HDD racks completely, correct? If 2x140mm fans are mounted in front of rad (push setup), rad can be tightened in the fans, correct?
> 
> Or should I got with 120mm fans for 240mm rad in future?
> 
> Also. 140mm fans would have later use as top exhaust (maybe with 2x140mm rads for AiO loops+kraken g10 for sli), so getting them now as temporary frontal fans is an option if 240mm will be mounted in front.
> 
> This is long term plan yeah, but so is six years of warranty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> I have a14s and I plan on mounting a 280mm rad to the front also soon. I got them because I am a noctua fan, but I also have sp120s on my h220x.


If you are going to do water cooling steer away from the Noctuas. They are good for air but not radiators. Look up Scythe gentle typhoons AP-15.You need static pressure when you go radiators. I am about to change all my Noctuas out for other fans because of low static pressure.


----------



## BenJaminJr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> If you are going to do water cooling steer away from the Noctuas. They are good for air but not radiators. Look up Scythe gentle typhoons AP-15.You need static pressure when you go radiators. I am about to change all my Noctuas out for other fans because of low static pressure.


AP 15's are not sold any more, and if you do find them they are used and people charge a premium. Bad advice here.

And depending on your rad, you don't need that much pressure. Noctuas make very good static pressure.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> If you are going to do water cooling steer away from the Noctuas. They are good for air but not radiators. Look up Scythe gentle typhoons AP-15.You need static pressure when you go radiators. I am about to change all my Noctuas out for other fans because of low static pressure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenJaminJr*
> 
> AP 15's are not sold any more, and if you do find them they are used and people charge a premium. Bad advice here.
> 
> And depending on your rad, you don't need that much pressure. Noctuas make very good static pressure.


You would be correct Still thought they made AP-15 fans.

For whoever needs the information and would like to make an informative purchasing decisions on fans for radiators check this link. Thanks

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


----------



## taem

Anyone here have a Node 804? Wondering if a 165mm tall cooler would fit. Listed spec is 160mm but I'm guessing 5mm more would still fit.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> You would be correct Still thought they made AP-15 fans.
> 
> For whoever needs the information and would like to make an informative purchasing decisions on fans for radiators check this link. Thanks
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


I checked that link, thanks! But... what is "enough" static pressure mm/h2o I should be looking for? Those new Noctuas give little above 2mm/h2o and it seems quite much for 140 fan. It does have low noise, but I see listed specs are usually rubbish when they are mounted on rads.

But. Do they have enough pressure for r4 front for aircoooling? I mean, if I get two of those they are reusable for me in other projects when/if I go watercool.


----------



## DVIELIS

Hi, maybe you could help me?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1514266/define-r4-airflow-config-and-h90-question#post_22882097


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DVIELIS*
> 
> Hi, maybe you could help me?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1514266/define-r4-airflow-config-and-h90-question#post_22882097


Read that thread and I could propose something quite logical. I guess it should apply AiO looped build as well.

Front, in R4, ALWAYS intake. There is just no clever reason why it should be exhaust.
Rear: Why couldn't you mount push-pull exhaust with rad there? For no reason I guess. So rear is exhaust.
Top. Exhaust. And this has nothing to do with hot air rises thing. Air goes where you push it. But unless you have very specific reason, top is additional exhaust.
Bottom: Additional intake. Use easy to clean filter there!
Side: In this case, intake. Put filter there too! Usually side is exhaust because GPU make air go from bottom to sides but because you use Kraken G10, now it should be INTAKE.

Now you should have four intakes and two exhaust (or three if you mount 2 top fans). You have good positive pressure and air should flow nicely. 4/2 for in/ex is mentioned here as good fan amount and ratio for watercooling. It is useful guide too for everyone thinking about fan setup, btw.

Hope this helps









EDIT: Read the guide again just for myself and I might invest for CM Jetflos. They are 120mm but should do the trick. Two in the front for now.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I checked that link, thanks! But... what is "enough" static pressure mm/h2o I should be looking for? Those new Noctuas give little above 2mm/h2o and it seems quite much for 140 fan. It does have low noise, but I see listed specs are usually rubbish when they are mounted on rads.
> 
> But. Do they have enough pressure for r4 front for aircoooling? I mean, if I get two of those they are reusable for me in other projects when/if I go watercool.


What version of Noctuas were you going for. Industrial or regular. I have NF-P12 x 14(Everywhere and anywhere say nice for air cooling for Rads not so much) and they are getting changed out sometime this week for something else. The static pressure on the fans are low for my Radiators(For some the Noctuas may be fine I have a 240 UT80 rad to push air thru). I also Have 4x 140mm Noctuas same condition with these. I mean for air cooling the Noctuas have treated me well. Just when I went to water. People have said switch the fans when I get the chance and these are guys that have been around water cooling forever.


----------



## DVIELIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Read that thread and I could propose something quite logical. I guess it should apply AiO looped build as well.
> 
> Front, in R4, ALWAYS intake. There is just no clever reason why it should be exhaust.
> Rear: Why couldn't you mount push-pull exhaust with rad there? For no reason I guess. So rear is exhaust.
> Top. Exhaust. And this has nothing to do with hot air rises thing. Air goes where you push it. But unless you have very specific reason, top is additional exhaust.
> Bottom: Additional intake. Use easy to clean filter there!
> Side: In this case, intake. Put filter there too! Usually side is exhaust because GPU make air go from bottom to sides but because you use Kraken G10, now it should be INTAKE.
> 
> Now you should have four intakes and two exhaust (or three if you mount 2 top fans). You have good positive pressure and air should flow nicely. 4/2 for in/ex is mentioned here as good fan amount and ratio for watercooling. It is useful guide too for everyone thinking about fan setup, btw.
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Read the guide again just for myself and I might invest for CM Jetflos. They are 120mm but should do the trick. Two in the front for now.


Thank you, I'll keep it in mind. The only thing I don't like is that the rear rad would not receive fresh air.


----------



## contay

It makes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DVIELIS*
> 
> Thank you, I'll keep it in mind. The only thing I don't like is that the rear rad would not receive fresh air.


It makes very small difference, honestly. Air isn't too long inside the case to heat up. What really matters now is how fast air goes trough the rads. Trust me here, I am (soon) an engineer. ; )


----------



## DVIELIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> It makes
> It makes very small difference, honestly. Air isn't too long inside the case to heat up. What really matters now is how fast air goes trough the rads. Trust me here, I am (soon) an engineer. ; )


Ok then, I believe you


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DVIELIS*
> 
> Ok then, I believe you


I mean. R4 has internal volume roughly 0,05m3 and if your real exhaust is around 60cfm (about 100m3/h) it equals 200 times air changing per hour. You see my point?


----------



## DVIELIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I mean. R4 has internal volume roughly 0,05m3 and if your real exhaust is around 60cfm (about 100m3/h) it equals 200 times air changing per hour. You see my point?


Yeah, it makes quite a lot of sense


----------



## Mjade Piang

Here's my Fractal Arc Midi R2 Build


----------



## Mjade Piang

Here's my Fractal Arc Midi R2 build called "DESIRE"


----------



## Anateus

I see some heresy...


----------



## DVIELIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mjade Piang*
> 
> Here's my Fractal Arc Midi R2 build called "DESIRE"


Nice build







repped


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mjade Piang*
> 
> Here's my Fractal Arc Midi R2 Build


----------



## contay

Installed 2x 120mm CM JetFlos in front of my R4. They work well and are nearly inaudible on lower RPM. With high rpm they are noisy, yeah, but I had to force them to max rpm, they wouldn't go there otherwise with my fan settings. Ordered one more which I will put in rear exhaust and with low noise adaptor I'll set it on fixed speed. My current mobo has only two 4-pin cha_fan connectors, so I put rear exhaust on fixed to cpu_fan2, which is 3pin. My thermalright machos fan is, of course, connected to 4-pin cpu_fan1.

So, next hardware update is most likely going to be new mobo. I've been checking Gigabytes Z97X Gaming boards. I think 7 clearly has too much "useless" stuff for me, so 3 or 5 then. But which one? 5 seems to have gold plated connections (lol) which has nothing to do with digital signals and I can tell audio isn't that important with my coarse hearing. But it comes with more sata cables, which would be worth few extra euros.

From my local store version 3 goes for 129€ and 5 goes for 145€.

I'll get some pics for my current build soon







nothing fancy but it works.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Installed 2x 120mm CM JetFlos in front of my R4.


Why 120mm instead of 140mm?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Why 120mm instead of 140mm?


There is only 120mm model of JetFlo


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> There is only 120mm model of JetFlo


I thought you were out for quite fans that move alot of air? I mean larger fans have a better air/noise ratio. Anyway, I hope you're happy with your fans.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> I thought you were out for quite fans that move alot of air? I mean larger fans have a better air/noise ratio. Anyway I hope you're happy with your fans.


Also I was after fans that manage with radiators in the future. This is why I chose jetflos over noctuas/phanteks/etc.

But honestly, any fan with over 90CFM is a bit noisy, unless it has almost zero pressure.

Just one fault: Fan screws are little ballheaded so I have to replace them with countersunk m5 screws.


----------



## GuniGuGu

Does anyone know if I can stack two Fractal Design Node 804 Mini Case on top of each other since the top's are curved?

Reason is I have a HTPC with 7 HDD's and a GPU for light gaming at the moment and I'm thinking I might build a dedicated gaming rig with two 970's. It would be awesome if I could merge these into one big tower since I live in small 1br apartment....

Also would two 970's in SLI get sufficient cooling in this case? I would have almost no HDD's fyi, since i would have another HTPC box for all my storage needs


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuniGuGu*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can stack two Fractal Design Node 804 Mini Case on top of each other since the top's are curved?
> 
> Reason is I have a HTPC with 7 HDD's and a GPU for light gaming at the moment and I'm thinking I might build a dedicated gaming rig with two 970's. It would be awesome if I could merge these into one big tower since I live in small 1br apartment....
> 
> Also would two 970's in SLI get sufficient cooling in this case? I would have almost no HDD's fyi, since i would have another HTPC box for all my storage needs


The node 804 is not a mini case lol, the top isn't that curved and so you should be able to stack it's just if the plastic can handle the weight but from a structural point of view Fractal cases are usually rigid and strong so you should have no problem stacking but double check with fractal.

Sli is no problem as the case has plenty of option for cooling.

The problem with stacking is that which ever case is at top the psu will be taking the hot air exhausted from the case below it.


----------



## falcon26

Can you mount a 120mm fan on the top of the R4?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Can you mount a 120mm fan on the top of the R4?


Yes, there are holes for both 140 and 120mm fans.


----------



## falcon26

Strange. I went to mount my H55 water cooler to the top and I could not get the 120MM fan to line up in any hole. I'll have to take another look when I get home from work. Not sure what the hell I was looking at then :-( I must be getting old..


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Strange. I went to mount my H55 water cooler to the top and I could not get the 120MM fan to line up in any hole. I'll have to take another look when I get home from work. Not sure what the hell I was looking at then :-( I must be getting old..


----------



## falcon26

Duh :-( I must have been really tired yesterday


----------



## contay

Now all fans are JetFlos : ) very low noise when set on silent mode from UEFI and on normal use about everything inside the case is 31*C or less. Even CPU was affected with two degrees.

But, I recall my earlier post. Does anyone have those Gigabyte gaming mobos?


----------



## Peanuts4

I'm putting together my Fractal Design Arc Midi R2. I habe a Noctua NF A14PWM that I put in the bottom front spot. I'm starting to rethink it as I feel the Noctua is likely stronger than the stock Fractal design fans and would be better used for blowing air through the open space in the middle of the case rather than at the side of the HDD cage at the bottom. What do you guys think? Leave it or change it, anyone use both fans?

I have the lower drive cage setup like in the top right image.


----------



## ElectricDevil

Go for it,anything is better than stock and i think the noctua fans push more air and have a higher rpm.Maybe for the stock fans i'd put them on the upper part of the case to help the exaust


----------



## allu

Sign me up, i got week ago Fractals R4. I love the case


----------



## incog

Define R4s have been around for a while, yet they're still really solid cases. Great to see.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> Define R4s have been around for a while, yet they're still really solid cases. Great to see.


Well, you get much for the money.


----------



## ElectricDevil

Owner of a Fractal XL R2 here


----------



## allu

@ElectricDevil
That thing is HUGE. Why it's on your table? xD


----------



## contay

@ElectricDevil

Is that Ps1 controller cable there? Dark grey with light grey plug.


----------



## Dimensive

Just finished rebuilding my rig:

Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini
Motherboard: MSI Z97M GAMING
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX_BK
RAM: 8GB Kingston HyperX FURY DDR3 1866MHz
PSU: 720W Cooler Master Silent Pro M2
GPU: 2 x MSI GTX 970 GAMING 4G
SSD: 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K (OS)
HDD: 1TB Western Digital Black (Storage)


----------



## ElectricDevil

@Allu it's where i put my pc's plus it's better than the floor

@contay yup you guessed it


----------



## The Pook

I keep my rig on my desk too even though it's big. Less dust and easier access to ports and stuffz.









sorry for the cell phone pictures ... but I'm stuck on upgrades 'til I find a new job. Happy with my Arc Midi R2 though.





Need a GPU power extension, ATX extension, some better fans, ... and then I think I'll stop 'til she's antiquated


----------



## Metasyntactic

Hey fellow Fractal Design fans!

I've just completed a Node804 build that i really like. It serves as both a medium powered gaming PC, as well as a large scale home storage system (with 8 4TB drives attached in the other half of the box). One thing i'm not super happy about my build is the cable management. Providing data and power cables to those 8 drives was non trivial, and has led a lot of squished space with poor aesthetics (at least compared to what i'd like them to be).

I've currently ordered some custom PSU-to-SATA power cables for the drive enclosures. They'll be very short cables (since the drives are right above the PSU), with only 1.5 inches between the connectors. This should make powering the drives much cleaner. This is especially helped because i will be able to switch away from three, 3-head PSU cables (which is what comes with the Fractal PSU), to two 4-head cables.

However, there's still the problem of the data cabling to the drives. In my case, because i have a Raid card, i'm looking for a custom cable with the following characteristics:

One is mini-sas 8087.
It should fanout to 4 separate sata data connectors.
Ideally the sata heads should be right-angle-down connectors.
Each individual sata cable should be a different length. 20" for hte longest, then 18.5, then 17, then 15.5 This way the cables can reach just to what they need to, without excess.
Does anyone know of sites out there that make custom sata *data* cables? I've had little luck looking, and i'd love some advice if anyone knows a good company out there that can do this sort of work.

Alternatively, if anyone here has a Node804 that they've filled with HDs, and they think they have some good ideas how to best cable it for a mini-sas Raid card, i'm all ears! I'd love to get some good advice on how to improve things her.e

Thanks!


----------



## Metasyntactic

Here's what the drive section looks like right now:




As you can see, it's very cluttered in there because of the eight sata data cables and the three 3-head sata power cables. With those cleaned up, that area will be much cleaner (not to mention easier to work with, and probably better for airflow).


----------



## Mjade Piang

Update Pics of my Fractal Arc Midi R2 Case (From Black/Pink to White/Black)


----------



## flyingcupcake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tasm*
> 
> 
> 
> My nasty bastard...Fractal FTW


How are you finding the Aerocool fans? I'm still tossing up between those or Noctua redux
Leaning more towards the Aerocool because i love the look, and on paper they're not much worse then the Noctua and a few dB quieter


----------



## DarkBlade6

Built this rig for a friend , mostly from leftover part and some used part that we bought on kijiji.

i5 3570K @ 4.3ghz 1.15v
GTX760 @ 1225mhz boost
8GB DDR3 Mushkin @ 1600mhz C8
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Adata 512GB SSD (new)
Fractal Define R4
EVGA SC Heatsink
Corsair AX650
Asus PCIe Xonar Essence

Total: 1000$CAD


----------



## DR4G00N

Just my daily gaming/folding/crunching rig.

The XFX card is no longer in use as the gpu silicon shattered from constant temp fluctuations (XFX cooler sucked).

This case is massive! 3 x 120mm fans (top), 2 x 140mm fans (front), 1 x 140mm fan (back), 1 x 120mm fan (not in picture(bottom)


----------



## rcoolb2002

Well Fractal proves their amazingness again!

My headphone jack stopped working and they sent me an entirely new front panel for a Define Mini


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mjade Piang*
> 
> Update Pics of my Fractal Arc Midi R2 Case (From Black/Pink to White/Black)
> ]


How did you make the PSU cover?


----------



## Sebakan

Hi guys,
I'm building a new PC and want to use the Fractal Design R4 in combination with the ASUS ROG Rampage V Extreme. Can you tell me if it MoBo would fit in that case?

I was thinking of using the ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition but the difference in price is very little.

You can see the complete build here: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Sebakan/saved/L7zXsY

Feel free to comment it. Thanks!

PD: Sorry about my english, but I'm Chilean.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebakan*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I'm building a new PC and want to use the Fractal Design R4 in combination with the ASUS ROG Rampage V Extreme. Can you tell me if it MoBo would fit in that case?
> 
> I was thinking of using the ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition but the difference in price is very little.
> 
> You can see the complete build here: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Sebakan/saved/L7zXsY
> 
> Feel free to comment it. Thanks!
> 
> PD: Sorry about my english, but I'm Chilean.


You can't use a 5930K and a RIVBE
Also, extreme ATX?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Sebakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> You can't use a 5930K and a RIVBE
> Also, extreme ATX?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Sorry, I meant ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition + i7 4930k. That was my last option.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebakan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> You can't use a 5930K and a RIVBE
> Also, extreme ATX?
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I meant ASUS ROG Rampage IV Black Edition + i7 4930k. That was my last option.
Click to expand...

ah, I'd be able to answer your question if I knew what Extreme ATX was,,kr maybe I did,t read and its Extreme ATX motherboard. IIRC the R4 obky supports up to ATC


----------



## Sebakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> ah, I'd be able to answer your question if I knew what Extreme ATX was,,kr maybe I did,t read and its Extreme ATX motherboard. IIRC the R4 obky supports up to ATC


boo, really? I thought if the RIVBE fits in the R4 (I saw some post on this thread), RVE will fit too...


----------



## Kimir

Yes, extended ATX fit in the R4, both RIVE and the BE will fit as they are the same size.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sebakan*
> 
> boo, really? I thought if the RIVBE fits in the R4 (I saw some post on this thread), RVE will fit too...


I think so,but don't,quote me on this.


----------



## Sebakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yes, extended ATX fit in the R4, both RIVE and the BE will fit as they are the same size.


So the RVE will fit too? It is EATX... (note I'm talking about the RVE not RIVE)

Thanks


----------



## Kimir

Look at my fractal rig in my sig, it has a RIVE in it.








RVE is stated to be EATX with exact same size (30.5 cm x 27.2 cm (12 pouces x 10.7 pouces)) so yeah, it will too.


----------



## Sebakan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Look at my fractal rig in my sig, it has a RIVE in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RVE is stated to be EATX with exact same size (30.5 cm x 27.2 cm (12 pouces x 10.7 pouces)) so yeah, it will too.


Yes, I saw it. Thanks for answer!


----------



## munq

Any Fractal Define R4 owners there have any experience if True Spirit 140 CPU cooler will fit in Define R4 without any issues? Such as not having to remove sound dampening from the side door or anything of the like?

If anyone knows, it'd be a great help


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munq*
> 
> Any Fractal Define R4 owners there have any experience if True Spirit 140 CPU cooler will fit in Define R4 without any issues? Such as not having to remove sound dampening from the side door or anything of the like?
> 
> If anyone knows, it'd be a great help


It'll fit without a problem. You won't need to remove anything either.


----------



## crazypete00

Here's My Arc Mini R2. still needs a bit of work. 4670k, ROG Vii Gene, Asus Strix GTX 970, H100i. in the process of making a PSU cover.


----------



## Wezzor

Looks really good mate!


----------



## firefox2501

Here is my recent build, just waiting on a 970.


----------



## pkrexer

Updated pictures of my Arc Midi 2


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Updated pictures of my Arc Midi 2


I love it. Do you have a parts list of the water-cooling equipment? I have been thinking about a custom loop for my Arc Midi-R2.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Updated pictures of my Arc Midi 2


I so envy those custom loops!

But, any new mobo recommendations. I am bit sure what I want, most importantly SLI 2way and 97-chipset. Going to upgrade cpu soon as well, with 4790K most likely. And going to get to 4.5 club







OCN, after all... Anyway! I have been eyeing few mobos and here is what I have. Any recommendations are helpful, even outside those four. Thanks!


----------



## crazypete00

cant really go wrong with any of those boards. I like the ROG range and have the Vii gene in my Fractal mini case. I have owned a Z87 Gigabyte board in the passed and i was more than happy with it, excellent features and easy to use bios but it didnt fit in with my colour scheme. I also currently have an old 1155 asrock board, it was cheap and cheerful but it just works, the pcb was a bit thin and lacking features compared to the newer ROG and Gigabyte boards.

if you like the Asus ROG Ranger have a look at the hero aswell, it has very similar features but i like how the hero lights up, looks good with a windowed case. I take it your going for a red theme as all the boards you have there are red and black. I think which ever one of those boards you purchase you will be happy with.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazypete00*
> 
> cant really go wrong with any of those boards. I like the ROG range and have the Vii gene in my Fractal mini case. I have owned a Z87 Gigabyte board in the passed and i was more than happy with it, excellent features and easy to use bios but it didnt fit in with my colour scheme. I also currently have an old 1155 asrock board, it was cheap and cheerful but it just works, the pcb was a bit thin and lacking features compared to the newer ROG and Gigabyte boards.
> 
> if you like the Asus ROG Ranger have a look at the hero aswell, it has very similar features but i like how the hero lights up, looks good with a windowed case. I take it your going for a red theme as all the boards you have there are red and black. I think which ever one of those boards you purchase you will be happy with.


It is merely a coincidence they are all red and black. I have white R4 without the window, as I just don't have time to make it too photogenic. So it really doesn't matter as there is red, black and white in there









But, like said I might go for little, or little more OCing and ranger looks solid for it. As I heard after posting that first post about mobos, my brother has stable 5GHz 4790k on Ranger. I am not going nowhere there though... So gigabytes might be good as well. Also local hardware store offer 2x4 GB Crucial Ballistix 1600 for free with gigabytes gaming board. But we'll see.


----------



## incog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Updated pictures of my Arc Midi 2


So, so clean, yet I need to ask: where is your storage? I imagine the SSD is behind the motherboard but do you have no HDD?


----------



## munq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munq*
> 
> Any Fractal Define R4 owners there have any experience if True Spirit 140 CPU cooler will fit in Define R4 without any issues? Such as not having to remove sound dampening from the side door or anything of the like?
> 
> If anyone knows, it'd be a great help


Just for anyone wondering about this in the future - yes, it does indeed fit. Even if the manufacturer's website says Fractal's dimenions are 170mm and TS140 is 170mm there is no problem. It fits easily and you can leave the sound dampener in place.


----------



## pkrexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> So, so clean, yet I need to ask: where is your storage? I imagine the SSD is behind the motherboard but do you have no HDD?


I have a SSD and HDD crammed behind the motherboard tray. It was a tight fit, but I managed to squeeze them in, along side a jungle of cables


----------



## incog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pkrexer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> So, so clean, yet I need to ask: where is your storage? I imagine the SSD is behind the motherboard but do you have no HDD?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a SSD and HDD crammed behind the motherboard tray. It was a tight fit, but I managed to squeeze them in, along side a jungle of cables
Click to expand...

so clean


----------



## YaCantStopMe

Anyone with a fractal r2 midi know if the case will mount a swiftech 240x in the top while still keeping the drivebays? Also does a 280 rad fit comfortably in the front of the case?


----------



## Mjade Piang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> How did you make the PSU cover?


I made it with a acrylic sheet


----------



## contay

Hmh, guys (and girls if there are any). You know there are all kind of weirdos, like contay when he's drunk. But, would it be possible with back panel modding to make dual mobo build inside Node 804? Maybe with mITX boards. And if someone ask "Why", there is no rational reason.

Okay, I am not drunk, just had this idea while ago.

Edit: okay I did some research with simple cad models. It would be possible with mITX-boards and atx-psus. Sfx-psu would help but it isn't necessary.


----------



## jeffblute

So I recently picked up the mini R2 and had a blast with the build so far, it's not 100% final but good enough for now









Also heres a picture of my little gaming buddy, We all need one at times we get frustrated!



(PS sorry for the potato quality pics)


----------



## Duscha

Hey guys,

I got 1 question regarding the cooling of a Fractal Design Define R4. Before you stop reading as cooling questions have been answered a lot regarding this case please note that's someting new, I guess.

First things first: the initial build

*Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl*
Asus Maximus VII Hero [1 x CPU Fan connector(4 -pin) 1 x CPU OPT Fan connector(4 -pin) 4 x Chassis Fan connectors(4 -pin)]
i7-4790K @ Noctua *NH-D15*
3 HDD

So far I didn't purchase any parts meaning I'm mostly guessing at this point. *The big question is: will a NF-A15 PWM fit onto my side panel* and does it make sense to do that?

My initial cooling setup would then be the NF-A15 PWM on the side panel and two stock 140mm coolers on 1*front intake and 1*rear exhaust. The A15 would be connected to the CPU opt Fan connector whereas the ND-D15 comes along with a y-splitter and should be run sufficiently by a single CPU Fan connector. The middle HDD cage will be removed. CPU and GPU will be overclocked.

I would like to start my build with 3 fans initially. Winter is coming. I'm planning to purchase a 2nd MSI GTX 970 around next summer along with two NF-A14 FLX (1*top back exhaust and 1 additional front intake) to complete this build.

You might ask why the heck do I want to put a NF-A15 one the side panel instead of another NF-A14 FLX. Two answers: 1) the A15 is available right now whereas the A14 currently is not. I could buy a NF-P14 instead but from what I've read it's outdated and loud. Most other common 140mm fans aren't available too. Options are limited. Secondly the A15 is probably one of the strongest 140mm fans out there and quiet at the same time. The A15 pointing directly at the SLI setup should probably grant the best cooling performance and would sync nicely with the CPU cooler fan speed.

If you're still reading you may also comment on my overall cooling setup/idea. The bottom fan slot won't be accessible as my planned power supply is 200mm deep and I plan to rotate the lower HDD cage anyway. I'm also unsure to remove the 5.25" bay. Does it really improve airflow? I won't use any 5.25" drives.

Feel free to comment on any flaws. Any input is highly appreciated.

Thanks guys, Duscha


----------



## Alain-s

Hello guys,

It has bin a while when I was here. I want to share my latest mod Eden. Made this mod from a Fractal Define R4.
I hope you all like.

http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/a...292768x1024VerticaalMDPC_zps038a1e56.jpg.html

http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/a...301768x1024VerticaalMDPC_zps7044510e.jpg.html

http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/a...768x1024HorizontaalMDPC_zps5c0a370b.jpg.ht ml

http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/a...298768x1024VerticaalMDPC_zpsd583be21.jpg.html

http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/a...257768x1024VerticaalMDPC_zps19f71cd2.jpg.html

http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/a...317768x1024VerticaalMDPC_zps9c371046.jpg.html

And a short video of the case it self.


----------



## DR4G00N

^ Beautiful







, nice job man.


----------



## gdubc

Wow. Very cool.


----------



## p4inkill3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alain-s*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> It has bin a while when I was here. I want to share my latest mod Eden. Made this mod from a Fractal Define R4.
> I hope you all like.


Beautiful craftsmanship.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> ^ Beautiful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , nice job man.


X2 more dribble









Where is the build log, don't be stingy lol


----------



## K4IKEN

Yo that thing is DOPE!









Could easily take MOTM.


----------



## gib6717

Just got my build together with an R4 and while I really like it, I'm having an issue with the front mic jack. I plug in a mic and windows recognizes it in the recording tab of sounds but I it doesn't pick up any sounds from the mic. To make it more interesting, it ONLY picks up sounds from the headphones even if the sound shouldn't be audible to the mic. Any ideas?


----------



## eBombzor

Hey guys I need some insight.

I plan on doing the "mod" on my 780 Ti but the only place where I can comfortably place the rad is the bottom fan placement next to the PSU. Do you guys think it's ok if I use the bottom fan mount as an exhaust for the AIO? Or will the hot air rise back into my case?(I have an R4 btw)

My PSU has its fan faced up and I have a 140mm side fan blowing onto the GPU and PSU. I also plan on removing the bottom dust filter.


----------



## EwanNLD

Hey,

I just got my arc midi R2 and as far as I can see a 360 rad should fit in the top without any modding but on the product specs it says it only supports 240 rads, can anyone give me more info about it?

Ewan


----------



## ElectricDevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gib6717*
> 
> Just got my build together with an R4 and while I really like it, I'm having an issue with the front mic jack. I plug in a mic and windows recognizes it in the recording tab of sounds but I it doesn't pick up any sounds from the mic. To make it more interesting, it ONLY picks up sounds from the headphones even if the sound shouldn't be audible to the mic. Any ideas?


congrads on your build man,is this a headset mic your using or just a regular mic? if it's a headset check to see if the mic isn't muted through the headset's program if it has one or maybe a physical button on the headset?


----------



## gib6717

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElectricDevil*
> 
> congrads on your build man,is this a headset mic your using or just a regular mic? if it's a headset check to see if the mic isn't muted through the headset's program if it has one or maybe a physical button on the headset?


Turns out the front panel audio port connection wasn't all the way in on the front panel side. Everything is working now! Thanks for your help.


----------



## BWAS1000

Time to lend some assistance Node 304 owners. Planning to get one and do a custom loop. 120 or 140mm rad in the back, and dual 92mm in the front. Also planning to run a long GPU and Seasonic M12-II in it. Any problems with that?


----------



## contay

@BWAS1000 check this http://www.overclock.net/t/1266342/official-fractal-design-node-304-owners-club


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> @BWAS1000 check this http://www.overclock.net/t/1266342/official-fractal-design-node-304-owners-club


So I should be good, basically.


----------



## Bas27

Just moved my little bit outdated parts to a new case, the Arc Mini R2! Beautiful case.

specs:







Core i7 965 Extreme
Asus Rampage II Gene
12gb Corsair Dominator
EVGA GTX580 Super Clocked
Samsung 840 EVO 250gb
2x Samsung F4 2tb
Corsair H100i
Seasonic M12II Evo 620W


----------



## pkrexer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bas27*
> 
> Just moved my little bit outdated parts to a new case, the Arc Mini R2! Beautiful case.
> 
> specs:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Core i7 965 Extreme
> Asus Rampage II Gene
> 12gb Corsair Dominator
> EVGA GTX580 Super Clocked
> Samsung 840 EVO 250gb
> 2x Samsung F4 2tb
> Corsair H100i
> Seasonic M12II Evo 620W


Very nice!









I love clean, minimalistic builds like yours.


----------



## incog

Love it. That's some serious VRM cooling by the way.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> Love it. That's some serious VRM cooling by the way.


I'm thinking you meant RAM cooling? the VRM cooling looks stock.sorry if I sound like a douche pointing that out.


----------



## incog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dusters16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> Love it. That's some serious VRM cooling by the way.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking you meant RAM cooling? the VRM cooling looks stock.sorry if I sound like a douche pointing that out.
Click to expand...

oh right, no, i was being silly not thinking

i forgot RAM existed in that pic, i mentioned VRAM cooling since I know that some people will air cool them. my bad, thanks for pointing out my mistake


----------



## p4inkill3r

I picked up a Define R4 off of the egg's shell shocker deal last month with the intent to fill it up with some old parts and sell it.

Well, the case is too beautiful and spacious for me to sell it, plus it was so cheap, so moved my old HAF X rig into the R4. I'm very pleased with it and it goes without saying that even though the R4 is relatively heavy, it is nothing compared to the monster HAF X.


----------



## SKRiPTT

Hello guys!
Here is my modified Fractal Define R4 Arctic White







What do you think?

*All photos in high quality->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157648966279652/
*GPU photos->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157648230096289/











Components:
AMD FX-6300 @4,9Ghz +CRYORIG R1 Universal
ASUS M5A99X Evo R2.0
Kingston HyperX 8GB 1600Mhz
MSI R9 270X 2G +OC
Seasonic S12II- 620W
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB


----------



## DR4G00N

Looks great!









I want to do that kind of thing to my Arc XL rig (painting gpu shroud, PCI expansion covers, ect. and make a psu & hdd tray cover) but in flat black with white sleeved psu cables.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to do that kind of thing to my Arc XL rig (painting gpu shroud, PCI expansion covers, ect. and make a psu & hdd tray cover) but in flat black with white sleeved psu cables.


Oh how it would be good looking on my white R4 as well! But maybe it is easier to find black/white board and paint the rest










Edit: Asus sabertooth mark 2 looks quite ideal, specs and color. Any experienc? Seems lot like rog ranger but cheaper (no ROG in price :B ).


----------



## incog

very nice looking rig right there, love it. very clean, decent parts, etc. nice job


----------



## DrockinWV

Curious to know if anyone has tried adding a side mount fan to the R4 with a window?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKRiPTT*
> 
> Hello guys!
> Here is my modified Fractal Define R4 Arctic White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> *All photos in high quality->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157648966279652/
> *GPU photos->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157648230096289/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Components:
> AMD FX-6300 @4,9Ghz +CRYORIG R1 Universal
> ASUS M5A99X Evo R2.0
> Kingston HyperX 8GB 1600Mhz
> MSI R9 270X 2G +OC
> Seasonic S12II- 620W
> Samsung 840 EVO 250GB


That's a beautiful thing there









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Curious to know if anyone has tried adding a side mount fan to the R4 with a window?


I know theres a guy who put 2 140's on his Arc Midi R2 here :http://www.overclock.net/t/1498313/cutting-an-exhaust-hole-in-my-arc-midi-r2

I guess they use the same matierials in both cases windows, not sure tbh


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> That's a beautiful thing there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know theres a guy who put 2 140's on his Arc Midi R2 here :http://www.overclock.net/t/1498313/cutting-an-exhaust-hole-in-my-arc-midi-r2
> 
> I guess they use the same matierials in both cases windows, not sure tbh


This will help a lot thanks!!


----------



## Slink3Slyde

No worries, good luck


----------



## contay

Inspired by @SKRiPTT I might push my own build towards little fancier look. But I am worried about cable sleeving. How hard it is for beginner? Should I just go for clean cabling first?

Update for black and white mobo: MSI Krait: I will straightforward abandon ideas of gigabytes gaming board for that.

Also. About painting cpu cooler. Painting just the topside (only side visible) should be okay with thin coat of spray for metal? Same going for gpu Shield. No fans. But if I can remove shield for painting, I'd like to do it.


----------



## crazypete00

here's my Fractal Design R2 Mini

i5 4670k, Asus ROG VII Gene, Corsair vengeance RAM, Asus strix GTX 970, h100i, corsair sp120's, sandisk 120GB SSD, Intel 512GB SSD.

CPU is clocked to 4.4GHZ atm with 1.25vcore, temp maxes out at 62c while gaming. GTX970 modest overclock can remember what exactly it is now but gets over 10k on firestrike.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazypete00*
> 
> here's my Fractal Design R2 *Midi*
> 
> i5 4670k, Asus ROG VII Gene, Corsair vengeance RAM, Asus strix GTX 970, h100i, corsair sp120's, sandisk 120GB SSD, Intel 512GB SSD.
> 
> CPU is clocked to 4.4GHZ atm with 1.25vcore, temp maxes out at 62c while gaming. GTX970 modest overclock can remember what exactly it is now but gets over 10k on firestrike.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks more like a *Mini* 2 me, cause of 4 Expansion slots








Clean Build


----------



## crazypete00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> Looks more like a *Mini* 2 me, cause of 4 Expansion slots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clean Build


well spotted, silly miss type


----------



## cwhite92

Hi guys, just got my Arc Mini.

Love the case but I had a lot of trouble with the SSD mounts on the back of the motherboard tray, no matter how much pressure I used I couldn't unscrew them from the tray. It's like the screws were welded on. I was using a properly sized screwdriver and gave it all I had but no budge. I gave up when I slipped and rounded the screw head slightly.









Still managed to mount my SSD in there but it was really fiddly. Anyone else had this problem?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Had the same problem with mine. Got my friend who has a stupid amount of hand strength to get them off for me. After that they were smooth going in and out.


----------



## xhaydenx

Hi everyone. I've got the define R3. I love everything about the case except for the HDD bays. I only use two slots: one for my HDD and one for my SSD. Do you guys think it'd be worth trying to remove the bays completely and increase airflow? My usual temps are around 40c for my GPu and 25c for my CPU, so I don't think I really need the extra airflow that I would get by removing the trays, but I like to optimize.

If I did do this? Where could I put the SSD and HDD? I was thinking it could maybe fit in the optical drive slot, as I don't use those, but I was worried about the lack of air-flow up there. Also, I don't think it'd fit both the HDD and SSD up there.

Any advice, guys?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Hi everyone. I've got the define R3. I love everything about the case except for the HDD bays. I only use two slots: one for my HDD and one for my SSD. Do you guys think it'd be worth trying to remove the bays completely and increase airflow? My usual temps are around 40c for my GPu and 25c for my CPU, so I don't think I really need the extra airflow that I would get by removing the trays, but I like to optimize.
> 
> If I did do this? Where could I put the SSD and HDD? I was thinking it could maybe fit in the optical drive slot, as I don't use those, but I was worried about the lack of air-flow up there. Also, I don't think it'd fit both the HDD and SSD up there.
> 
> Any advice, guys?


I had R2 previously and bcs I don't like to mod case with handsaw and power drill, I went to R4^^

But. I had very same situation and temps, so I wouldn't worry. If you want, you can remobe HDD bays by drilling the rivets and you can take it out in one piece. Easier to put back later if needed. SSD really don't need cooling, so it can be mounted about anywhere. Newer HDDs are energy efficient and wont heat up as much, so you could try 5,25" adapter. Or just keep the bays :


----------



## Wezzor

Just get an adapter like contay suggested


----------



## xhaydenx

Thanks for the tips guys.

I'm thinking I still want to remove the HDD trays. Would it be possible to remove the trays and somehow attach the HDD to the floor of the case where the HDD bays used to be? That way I'll have much better airflow + my HDD will still have one fan on it.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Just get an adapter like contay suggested


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Thanks for the tips guys.
> 
> I'm thinking I still want to remove the HDD trays. Would it be possible to remove the trays and somehow attach the HDD to the floor of the case where the HDD bays used to be? That way I'll have much better airflow + my HDD will still have one fan on it.


Actually now I myself mentioned adapter, I might get one as well. Or do one (I am handy with metal







). I myself have only two SSDs in Raid0 so might as well remove whole tower of hdd cages. Now I have only lower one sitting there.


----------



## contay

So. Like I said before, @SKRiPTTs build was very inspiring. I am planning my next upgrade: MSI z97 Krait edition, 4790K and Phanteks enormous cpu cooler (Black and white). Also might upgrade gpu or just sli 760s. Warranty is gone so might just Paint them white. What do u think?


----------



## xhaydenx

So apparently the r3 has a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter in it already. I tried to put my HDD in there and the screw holes just didn't align, which I thought was weird.

WOuld it be a bad idea to remove my HDD tray and then have the HDD resting on the ground where the tray used to be? Or does it need to be secured there somehow?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> So apparently the r3 has a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter in it already. I tried to put my HDD in there and the screw holes just didn't align, which I thought was weird.
> 
> WOuld it be a bad idea to remove my HDD tray and then have the HDD resting on the ground where the tray used to be? Or does it need to be secured there somehow?


Well, yeh it will be fine but try not to move around the case too much without securing the HDD.







But to be honest just get an adapter. It looks so much better and it's so much easier. This is the one I got: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817997056 You can mount 1x HDD and 2x SSD on it.


----------



## xhaydenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Well, yeh it will be fine but try not to move around the case too much without securing the HDD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But to be honest just get an adapter. It looks so much better and it's so much easier. This is the one I got: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817997056 You can mount 1x HDD and 2x SSD on it.


Yeah these look good. Do you find it gets a lot hotter up there though without any fan blowing on them?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Yeah these look good. Do you find it gets a lot hotter up there though without any fan blowing on them?


Nope. These are my temps atm:


----------



## Hawkeye360

Hey guys,

I just got a Fractal XL R2 but have a major problem. I installed everything but no PCIe components will fit into the the motherboard. I contacted Fractal and they sent me new standoffs which don't solve the problem.

Parts will just not fit correctly. I have an Asus Z97 Mark 1 with the "TUF Fortifier" backplate. I thought maybe the backplate on the board is the problem but can't find anything about people having problems.

Fractal thought that perhaps the motherboard tray is warped. Have to return it if so.

Anybody here using an Asus motherboard with a backplate in their XL R2?


----------



## xhaydenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Nope. These are my temps atm:


Do you live in Antarctica or something? My HDDs would never stay that cool on any moderately warm day.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Do you live in Antarctica or something? My HDDs would never stay that cool on any moderately warm day.


He (@Wezzor) is "my neighbour" from the west. I have similiar temps on my ssds, bit lower maybe. They do have some airflow though.



"Seagate" shows as ssd somehow but it is external HDD. Sandisk are both SSDs as shown.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Do you live in Antarctica or something? My HDDs would never stay that cool on any moderately warm day.


Hahaha nah I don't.







What's your temps?


----------



## PeterMac

I bought FD Arc Midi R2, and had problem with opening left side panel it stuck on top of it so I returned RMA the case, now I have another one and identical same problem block in same place












Do you also had same problem with open your side panels ?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> I bought FD Arc Midi R2, and had problem with opening left side panel it stuck on top of it so I returned RMA the case, now I have another one and identical same problem block in same place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you also had same problem with open your side panels ?


Never experienced that with any of the cases I've used for customers.


----------



## PeterMac

I also never expiered same problem with many cases I had, but with this two same problem


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterMac*
> 
> I also never expiered same problem with many other cases, but with this two same problem


I've probably built around 8 rigs using the Arc Midi R2 and they've all been fine. Check the tabs on the side panel to see if any are bent.


----------



## PeterMac

tabs on side panel are ok all look same, same situation with two cases so this can't be problem with one faulty case, but production faulty series I think.
I want to swap my parts from Antec 1200 to this case, but now I'm little dissapointed with FD quality.
Also this case are not available anymore in Poland shops, this one I bought from german shop and I see also they do not have this case anymore







even it I want to replace RMA it now

Maybe Fractal stop to produce this model ?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Yeah that sucks. I doubt they've stopped producing them maybe they have stopped retailers from selling because of this issue and they're sorting it out.


----------



## PeterMac

Hmm maybe







but I don't hear many complains about that problem. Now It's not available in all internet shops in Poland, also in this German shop where I bought my they don't have it anymore and don't know when will be availabe if it will. Also check for example newegg only in USA is available all other countries unavailable.

Here is similar problem with problem open side panel as my - http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/55614-cannot-open-side-panel-on-the-fractal-define-r4/

By the way, I will also ask, which fan do you recomended for this Arc Midi R2, I want to replace orginal fans for now only front intake fans, I thinking between Noctua NF-A14 FLX and NF-A14 PWM.
I want to connect them to motherboard Asus P8P67 Deluxe, but I'm not sure does this motherboard can control fans by voltage, I heard somewhere dosen't support voltage control so maybe better will be PWM version.

Does is possible to use two Noctua L.N.A adapters first to reduce A14 PWM model to 1200RPM, and second U.L.N.A adapter to reduce RPM to 950RPM if I will want to use this fan to use in 3pin header in motherboard ?


----------



## jeffblute

Seems to me the tabs are just bent, it happens every once and a while. it is a VERY easy fix. make sure you also check the front of the side panel.


----------



## xhaydenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Hahaha nah I don't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's your temps?


Its an average day. HDD is sitting around 34 c thats with one of the fractal fans blowing onto it.. I reckon it would probably hit 40+ if I put it in the optical slot without a fan on it. Would that be too hot?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Its an average day. HDD is sitting around 34 c thats with one of the fractal fans blowing onto it.. I reckon it would probably hit 40+ if I put it in the optical slot without a fan on it. Would that be too hot?


Nah you'll be completly fine.








I mean you don't wanna pass that 60C+ mark but I'm sure you won't be close hitting that number even without a fan so go for the adapter








You won't notice any big difference on the hard drive without a fan anyway. We talk about 2-3C.


----------



## PeterMac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffblute*
> 
> Seems to me the tabs are just bent, it happens every once and a while. it is a VERY easy fix. make sure you also check the front of the side panel.


Exactcly you have right, this problem is cause by this two middle small tabs on side panel, this tabs stand out not enough, I fixed them exactly by adjusting them up by screwdriver a little bit and now opening fine. But I'm little worry now because on case where panel moves I have little scratches in paint cause by this hard opening







hate any scratches


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> So apparently the r3 has a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter in it already. I tried to put my HDD in there and the screw holes just didn't align, which I thought was weird.
> 
> WOuld it be a bad idea to remove my HDD tray and then have the HDD resting on the ground where the tray used to be? Or does it need to be secured there somehow?


I have my hdd mounted to the slide in portion and then rested on the ground where the tray used to be, so the rubber grommets absorb any vibration and I haven't had a single problem. Just be careful if you move the case around.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> I have my hdd mounted to the slide in portion and then rested on the ground where the tray used to be, so the rubber grommets absorb any vibration and I haven't had a single problem. Just be careful if you move the case around.


Pretty much what I've done except I used a couple small strips of this as well :

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Velcro-VEL-EC60214-20mm-Brand-Stick/dp/B0013DO888/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415118168&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+tape

1001 uses around the home


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Pretty much what I've done except I used a couple small strips of this as well :
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Velcro-VEL-EC60214-20mm-Brand-Stick/dp/B0013DO888/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415118168&sr=8-1&keywords=velcro+tape
> 
> 1001 uses around the home


nice







. I plan on making a back plate where the gap is ont he back and mounting the HDD vertically. I've seen pictures of a very similar setup but im not sure where I saw them or I would link them.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

I think I saw that pic somewhere too but I wondered whether it would vibrate on the side panel, haven't tried it though pure laziness on my part


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I think I saw that pic somewhere too but I wondered whether it would vibrate on the side panel, haven't tried it though pure laziness on my part


You're not the only one lol. I need to get off my butt and give it a shot.


----------



## Radd

Hey everyone,

I just made a thread asking for advice on a case for my future new desktop, but since I'm not getting any answers so far I thought I would ask a more specific question here.

I have been told that the Fractal Design Define R4 is a good case, and I like the photos I've seen of it. My question to you is: would this case be able to contain the following configuration, and keep it cool enough with default fans? I will *not* overclock or play with any of the components, since I suck at hardware, so I'm only interested in knowing if everything will be stable, solid and not too hot on the long/very long term if I use this case with the two included vents. Here is the config:

Processor : Intel s1150 4 Core - i7 4790K 8Mb Cache / 8 Thread 4.0GHz/4.4Ghz Turbo - Graphics 4600 88W
Cooler : Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 / 135mm Silent Wings
Motherboard : Asrock s1150 - Z97 Professional Fatal1ty ATX - Killer E2200 - HDD Saver - Core3D
Memory : Kingston DDR3 - 2133Mhz - 16GB HyperX Beast CL11 ( 2x8GB ) + Headspread
HDD : Western Digital Caviar Green 3000GB 3.5 inchs Sata3 iPower 64MB Cache
SSD : Crucial m500 480GB - 2.5inch SATA 3 / SATA 6GBps - 500/400 Mb/s
Graphic card : Gigabyte GeForce GTX980 4096Mb DDR5 HDMI / DVI / 3DP
DVD : LG Blu-Ray RW 16x Black SATA
Power supply: Be Quiet 680 Watt - Straight Power E9-CM-680W Modular Cable ** Pro Choice **

(I've been told I should take a different SSD, namely the Crucial SSD MX100 512GB, so I might do that, and I might also switch the HDD to a WD Caviar Black 3TB)

Like I said, none of that will be overclocked.

1) Will the Fractal Design Define R4 be able to keep everything cool enough with default fans? (also, I'm planning on keeping this config for 4-6 years... is the Define R4 a quality, long-lasting build?)
2) If so, will the Fractal Design Define R4 be noisy in keeping everything cool?

Thanks a lot in advance, any help will be greatly appreciated!


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I just made a thread asking for advice on a case for my future new desktop, but since I'm not getting any answers so far I thought I would ask a more specific question here.
> 
> I have been told that the Fractal Design Define R4 is a good case, and I like the photos I've seen of it. My question to you is: would this case be able to contain the following configuration, and keep it cool enough with default fans? I will *not* overclock or play with any of the components, since I suck at hardware, so I'm only interested in knowing if everything will be stable, solid and not too hot on the long/very long term if I use this case with the two included vents. Here is the config:
> 
> Processor : Intel s1150 4 Core - i7 4790K 8Mb Cache / 8 Thread 4.0GHz/4.4Ghz Turbo - Graphics 4600 88W
> Cooler : Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 / 135mm Silent Wings
> Motherboard : Asrock s1150 - Z97 Professional Fatal1ty ATX - Killer E2200 - HDD Saver - Core3D
> Memory : Kingston DDR3 - 2133Mhz - 16GB HyperX Beast CL11 ( 2x8GB ) + Headspread
> HDD : Western Digital Caviar Green 3000GB 3.5 inchs Sata3 iPower 64MB Cache
> SSD : Crucial m500 480GB - 2.5inch SATA 3 / SATA 6GBps - 500/400 Mb/s
> Graphic card : Gigabyte GeForce GTX980 4096Mb DDR5 HDMI / DVI / 3DP
> DVD : LG Blu-Ray RW 16x Black SATA
> Power supply: Be Quiet 680 Watt - Straight Power E9-CM-680W Modular Cable ** Pro Choice **
> 
> (I've been told I should take a different SSD, namely the Crucial SSD MX100 512GB, so I might do that, and I might also switch the HDD to a WD Caviar Black 3TB)
> 
> Like I said, none of that will be overclocked.
> 
> 1) Will the Fractal Design Define R4 be able to keep everything cool enough with default fans? (also, I'm planning on keeping this config for 4-6 years... is the Define R4 a quality, long-lasting build?)
> 2) If so, will the Fractal Design Define R4 be noisy in keeping everything cool?
> 
> Thanks a lot in advance, any help will be greatly appreciated!


Upgrading the fans might be good solution for both cooler and more silent case. At least getting second intake is recommended.

As a R4 owner I have been very Happy, and will replace my i5 with very same 4790k when MSI Krait Edition mobo is out (I'll replace both mobo and cpu at the same time). I look forward running my case cool with 4790k, thanks to three jetflos and macho hr-02 and after adding/upgrading fans you can sleep well with cool and quiet case.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I just made a thread asking for advice on a case for my future new desktop, but since I'm not getting any answers so far I thought I would ask a more specific question here.
> 
> I have been told that the Fractal Design Define R4 is a good case, and I like the photos I've seen of it. My question to you is: would this case be able to contain the following configuration, and keep it cool enough with default fans? I will *not* overclock or play with any of the components, since I suck at hardware, so I'm only interested in knowing if everything will be stable, solid and not too hot on the long/very long term if I use this case with the two included vents. Here is the config:
> 
> Processor : Intel s1150 4 Core - i7 4790K 8Mb Cache / 8 Thread 4.0GHz/4.4Ghz Turbo - Graphics 4600 88W
> Cooler : Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 / 135mm Silent Wings
> Motherboard : Asrock s1150 - Z97 Professional Fatal1ty ATX - Killer E2200 - HDD Saver - Core3D
> Memory : Kingston DDR3 - 2133Mhz - 16GB HyperX Beast CL11 ( 2x8GB ) + Headspread
> HDD : Western Digital Caviar Green 3000GB 3.5 inchs Sata3 iPower 64MB Cache
> SSD : Crucial m500 480GB - 2.5inch SATA 3 / SATA 6GBps - 500/400 Mb/s
> Graphic card : Gigabyte GeForce GTX980 4096Mb DDR5 HDMI / DVI / 3DP
> DVD : LG Blu-Ray RW 16x Black SATA
> Power supply: Be Quiet 680 Watt - Straight Power E9-CM-680W Modular Cable ** Pro Choice **
> 
> (I've been told I should take a different SSD, namely the Crucial SSD MX100 512GB, so I might do that, and I might also switch the HDD to a WD Caviar Black 3TB)
> 
> Like I said, none of that will be overclocked.
> 
> 1) Will the Fractal Design Define R4 be able to keep everything cool enough with default fans? (also, I'm planning on keeping this config for 4-6 years... is the Define R4 a quality, long-lasting build?
> 2) If so, will the Fractal Design Define R4 be noisy in keeping everything cool?
> 
> Thanks a lot in advance, any help will be greatly appreciated!


You'll be fine.







Just buy one extra intake fan in front since the case just come with 1 front fan. Anyway, if you're not going to overclock that cpu cooler is way to overkill. You should instead spend the money on buying a better power supply like the EVGA SuperNova G2 750W. It comes also with 10 years warranty so it'll be perfect since you're aiming for long lasting PC.








If it comes to HDD I'd personally go for the blue version because it's more balanced when it comes to performance/sound. If I were you I'd also change the SSD for Samsung EVO 840. Everything else looks and would you ever need some help our guidance feel free to come back.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> You'll be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just buy one extra intake fan in front since the case just come with 1 front fan. Anyway, if you're not going to overclock that cpu cooler is way to overkill. You should instead spend the money on buying a better power supply like the EVGA SuperNova G2 750W. It comes also with 10 years warranty so it'll be perfect since you're aiming for long lasting PC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it comes to HDD I'd personally go for the blue version because it's more balanced when it comes to performance/sound. If I were you I'd also change the SSD for Samsung EVO 840. Everything else looks and would you ever need some help our guidance feel free to come back.


I can recommend crucial mx100, I've been pleased with one









Also, @Radd, like Wezzor said cpu cooler is a bit overkill. Check Thermalright HR-02. Powerful, quiet because of huge heatsink and only around 45€.


----------



## Radd

@contay & @Wezzor : thanks a LOT for the help guys, it is very much appreciated! I will ask my shop to include one extra intake fan in front, but I'm not sure which type I should ask them to install. Could you help me select in the following list one which should work well in the Fractal Design Define R4?

http://www.microcity.be/webshop/catalogue-7-5-15-microcity-Refroidisseur.html

I suppose it should be a 120mm or 140mm fan, right? Does one of those listed seem fit for the job to you? Once that additional one is installed, there should be no heat issues whatsoever, correct (even if I leave the computer running for 1-2 days?)?

With regards to the power supply, do you not think the 680W one will be enough? Or is it simply unreliable?

Finally, with regards to the HDD, the shop unfortunately does not sell WD Cavier Blue HDDs with more than 1TB. Are the WD Caviar Black 3TB not a great choice? I can also opt for a Seagate Barracuda 3000GB 3.5 inchs Sata3 64Mb Cache 7200rpm, for example.

Thank you so much again - as you can tell, I know next to nothing about these things


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> @contay & @Wezzor : thanks a LOT for the help guys, it is very much appreciated! I will ask my shop to include one extra intake fan in front, but I'm not sure which type I should ask them to install. Could you help me select in the following list one which should work well in the Fractal Design Define R4?
> 
> http://www.microcity.be/webshop/catalogue-7-5-15-microcity-Refroidisseur.html
> 
> I suppose it should be a 120mm or 140mm fan, right? Does one of those listed seem fit for the job to you? Once that additional one is installed, there should be no heat issues whatsoever, correct (even if I leave the computer running for 1-2 days?)?
> 
> With regards to the power supply, do you not think the 680W one will be enough? Or is it simply unreliable?
> 
> Finally, with regards to the HDD, the shop unfortunately does not sell WD Cavier Blue HDDs with more than 1TB. Are the WD Caviar Black 3TB not a great choice? I can also opt for a Seagate Barracuda 3000GB 3.5 inchs Sata3 64Mb Cache 7200rpm, for example.
> 
> Thank you so much again - as you can tell, I know next to nothing about these things


http://www.microcity.be/webshop/produit-7-5-15-51141-microcity.Cooler-MasterRR-TX3E-22PK-R1Hyper-TX3-EVO-sAM2-AM3-FM1-775-1366-1150-1155.html would definitely be my choice. The money you save on buying that cooler you should spend as I said before on the EVGA SuperNova G2 750W.








If you're talking about the in front fan you should go for 140mm since they have better performance/noise ratio.
Well, the black one is good only that's it meant for pure performance so it sound much more than the blue for example. You could also check out if they have the red one avaible but if sound is not a problem then go for the black. When it comes to Seagate I can't help you out there since I have never owned a Seagate drive.


----------



## Radd

Thanks again, @Wezzor! For the intake front fan, is there anything in this list you would recommend? http://www.microcity.be/webshop/catalogue-7-19-72-microcity-Ventilateurs-Boitier.html?page=2&MC=all&BRAND=all&sp721=all (and following pages)?

Well, I'd rather not have too much noise, so maybe the Caviar Black isn't the best option then. There's also a "Purple" option (http://www.microcity.be/webshop/produit-7-5-19-1306002-microcity.Western-DigitalWD30PURX3TB-PURPLE-64MB-35IN-SATA-6GB-S-INTELLIPOWER.html), and the Caviar Red (http://www.microcity.be/webshop/produit-7-5-19-466383-microcity.Western-DigitalWD30EFRXCaviar-Red-3000GB-35-inchs-Sata3-Nas-Edition-64mb.html), but apparently it's a "Nas edition" so I'm not sure it's optimal for a system like mine.

I've checked and unfortunately they do not offer the EVGA SuperNova G2 750W







You really do not think the 680W Straight Power E9 will do a good job?

Sorry for the numerous questions - I rarely buy a new PC, and I want to get this one right in order for it to last a long time









Thanks a bunch!


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> Thanks again, @Wezzor! For the intake front fan, is there anything in this list you would recommend? http://www.microcity.be/webshop/catalogue-7-19-72-microcity-Ventilateurs-Boitier.html?page=2&MC=all&BRAND=all&sp721=all (and following pages)?
> 
> Well, I'd rather not have too much noise, so maybe the Caviar Black isn't the best option then. There's also a "Purple" option (http://www.microcity.be/webshop/produit-7-5-19-1306002-microcity.Western-DigitalWD30PURX3TB-PURPLE-64MB-35IN-SATA-6GB-S-INTELLIPOWER.html), and the Caviar Red (http://www.microcity.be/webshop/produit-7-5-19-466383-microcity.Western-DigitalWD30EFRXCaviar-Red-3000GB-35-inchs-Sata3-Nas-Edition-64mb.html), but apparently it's a "Nas edition" so I'm not sure it's optimal for a system like mine.
> 
> I've checked and unfortunately they do not offer the EVGA SuperNova G2 750W
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You really do not think the 680W Straight Power E9 will do a good job?
> 
> Sorry for the numerous questions - I rarely buy a new PC, and I want to get this one right in order for it to last a long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a bunch!


It's fine. I offered you my help after all








But before we continue is there really no more shop that you might consider buying from? I just checked out the website with google translate and it's pretty impressive how restricted the sortiment is. I could literally just find 2x 140mm fans for example.


----------



## Radd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> It's fine. I offered you my help after all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But before we continue is there really no more shop that you might consider buying from? I just checked out the website with google translate and it's pretty impressive how restricted the sortiment is. I could literally just find 2x 140mm fans for example.


I would indeed like to keep it to that shop, because they have great customer service and they've agreed to a reduction on the overall build if I buy it there...

I may be missing something, but when I filter their catalogue by 140mm fans, I get 19 results: http://www.microcity.be/webshop/catalogue-7-19-72-microcity-Ventilateurs-Boitier.html?page=1&MC=all&BRAND=all&sp721=MTQwIG1t

Were you looking for something more specific?

edit: I was told that this 140mm fan would do the job well: http://www.microcity.be/webshop/produit-7-19-72-967822-microcity.Be-QuietBL047Fan-140*140*25mm-%22PURE-Wings-2%22.html

Can you confirm it to be a good choice for the case, with everything running at stock value (I won't overclock anything)?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> I would indeed like to keep it to that shop, because they have great customer service and they've agreed to a reduction on the overall build if I buy it there...
> 
> I may be missing something, but when I filter their catalogue by 140mm fans, I get 19 results: http://www.microcity.be/webshop/catalogue-7-19-72-microcity-Ventilateurs-Boitier.html?page=1&MC=all&BRAND=all&sp721=MTQwIG1t
> 
> Were you looking for something more specific?
> 
> edit: I was told that this 140mm fan would do the job well: http://www.microcity.be/webshop/produit-7-19-72-967822-microcity.Be-QuietBL047Fan-140*140*25mm-%22PURE-Wings-2%22.html
> 
> Can you confirm it to be a good choice for the case, with everything running at stock value (I won't overclock anything)?


Well, it depends if you want a PWM fan or a 3-pin fan. But if you want 3-pin that's a good fan.


----------



## Radd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Well, it depends if you want a PWM fan or a 3-pin fan. But if you want 3-pin that's a good fan.


I don't really think I'm tech-savvy enough for a PWM fan (properly configure it, check if it's following the temperatures properly etc.), so just a normal fan will be enough for me if it works well in keeping everything cool enough, even if it's less power consumption-efficient 

From your perspective, having the stock 140mm fan at the front, stock 140mm fan at the rear, and the additional Be Quiet 140mm Pure Wings 2 fan at the front should keep the Fractal Define R4 case sufficiently cool? I do not plan on overclocking any of the components and I will keep it to a single GPU.

To recap the build to let you assess things better:

Processor : Intel s1150 4 Core - i7 4790K 8Mb Cache / 8 Thread 4.0GHz/4.4Ghz Turbo - Graphics 4600 88W
Cooler : Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 / 135mm Silent Wings
Motherboard : Asrock s1150 - Z97 Professional Fatal1ty ATX - Killer E2200 - HDD Saver - Core3D
Memory : Kingston DDR3 - 2133Mhz - 16GB HyperX Beast CL11 ( 2x8GB ) + Headspread
HDD : Western Digital Caviar Blue 1000Gb - 3.5inch SATA 3,6GB/s,7200RPM,64MB [possibly two]
SSD : Crucial SSD 512GB 2,5" (6.3cm) MX100 SATAIII
GPU : Gigabyte GeForce GTX980 4096Mb DDR5 HDMI / DVI / 3DP
DVD : LG Blu-Ray RW 16x Black SATA
PSU : Be Quiet 680 Watt - Straight Power E9-CM-680W Modular Cable ** Pro Choice **
Case : Fractal Design Midi DEFINE R4 Black USB 3.0
Additional intake front fan : Be Quiet Fan 140*140*25mm "PURE Wings 2"

Thank you so much again!


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> I don't really think I'm tech-savvy enough for a PWM fan (properly configure it, check if it's following the temperatures properly etc.), so just a normal fan will be enough for me if it works well in keeping everything cool enough, even if it's less power consumption-efficient
> 
> From your perspective, having the stock 140mm fan at the front, stock 140mm fan at the rear, and the additional Be Quiet 140mm Pure Wings 2 fan at the front should keep the Fractal Define R4 case sufficiently cool? I do not plan on overclocking any of the components and I will keep it to a single GPU.
> 
> To recap the build to let you assess things better:
> 
> Processor : Intel s1150 4 Core - i7 4790K 8Mb Cache / 8 Thread 4.0GHz/4.4Ghz Turbo - Graphics 4600 88W
> Cooler : Be Quiet Dark Rock 3 / 135mm Silent Wings
> Motherboard : Asrock s1150 - Z97 Professional Fatal1ty ATX - Killer E2200 - HDD Saver - Core3D
> Memory : Kingston DDR3 - 2133Mhz - 16GB HyperX Beast CL11 ( 2x8GB ) + Headspread
> HDD : Western Digital Caviar Blue 1000Gb - 3.5inch SATA 3,6GB/s,7200RPM,64MB [possibly two]
> SSD : Crucial SSD 512GB 2,5" (6.3cm) MX100 SATAIII
> GPU : Gigabyte GeForce GTX980 4096Mb DDR5 HDMI / DVI / 3DP
> DVD : LG Blu-Ray RW 16x Black SATA
> PSU : Be Quiet 680 Watt - Straight Power E9-CM-680W Modular Cable ** Pro Choice **
> Case : Fractal Design Midi DEFINE R4 Black USB 3.0
> Additional intake front fan : Be Quiet Fan 140*140*25mm "PURE Wings 2"
> 
> Thank you so much again!


You'll be completly fine with the temps trust me








Anyway, once again you don't need that cpu cooler. Spend the money on something else.

EDIT: Ohh, forgot to mention about PWM fans. What they do is that they automatically adjust the fans RPM's depending on the temperature. You don't need to be tech-savvy at all you just enable the option in the BIOS and then you let the fans do the rest of the job.


----------



## Radd

Thank you so much, you were really helpful! Cheers


----------



## levontraut

hey guys

does anyone know if the H110 fits on the Fractal Design r4?


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> Thank you so much, you were really helpful! Cheers


No problem mate. If you ever get any problems just come back and I'll gladly help you out.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> hey guys
> 
> does anyone know if the H110 fits on the Fractal Design r4?


It depends what motherboard you have.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> It depends what motherboard you have.


cheers so it will fit the top

that is all i wanted to know


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> cheers so it will fit the top
> 
> that is all i wanted to know


Ohh my bad, I read it as H100 sorry. When it comes to H110 it wont fit in the top. It'll only fit in the front if you remove hdd cages drill etc.









Here I found someone that managed to do it but it front then. https://teksyndicate.com/forum/cooling/h110-fractal-design-r4-yes-it-fits/161572


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Ohh my bad, I read it as H100 sorry. When it comes to H110 it wont fit in the top. It'll only fit in the front if you remove hdd cages drill etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here I found someone that managed to do it but it front then. https://teksyndicate.com/forum/cooling/h110-fractal-design-r4-yes-it-fits/161572


cheers dude

I had a h100i in my case but put that over to the XL2 now need a new one.. I was hoping the 110 would fit as it is 20mm bigger

all the little bit helps apparently


----------



## Radd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> No problem mate. If you ever get any problems just come back and I'll gladly help you out.


@Wezzor! I'm terribly sorry to bother you again, but I was told by a friend that the extra 140mm Pure Wings 2 fan I'm going to add to the case would be more helpful if installed on the side than on the front, since it will cool down the GPU. How does that sound to you? Was there a specific reason you told me to add it on the front of the case?

Thanks again!


----------



## DotBeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> @Wezzor! I'm terribly sorry to bother you again, but I was told by a friend that the extra 140mm Pure Wings 2 fan I'm going to add to the case would be more helpful if installed on the side than on the front, since it will cool down the GPU. How does that sound to you? Was there a specific reason you told me to add it on the front of the case?
> 
> Thanks again!


I can tell you placing the side fan will indeed give you more temp gains if you already have an upper front case fan, the side fan will blow over the mobo & video card.


----------



## taem

Newegg offering Define R4 for $69.99 with free shipping today.


----------



## Radd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DotBeta*
> 
> I can tell you placing the side fan will indeed give you more temp gains if you already have an upper front case fan, the side fan will blow over the mobo & video card.


Ok, thanks! So according to you having one front intake 140mm fan, one back exhaust 140mm fan, and one side intake 140mm fan would be sufficient to cool down my config, and better than having two intake 140mm fans at the front and one exhaust 140mm fan at the back, correct?

@Wezzor, would you agree?

edit: two comments I received elsewhere which make me think I might still go for the two intake fans at the front, even though as you said DotBeta the side fan might be more optimal in terms of temperatures...
Quote:


> Fan placement depends on all the configuration involved and the other parts, especially the CPU and GPU coolers, but usually for a case like that the side placement yields lower temperatures. But there are many caveats to consider. Keep in mind that the design of a case is intended to keep most internally generated noise within and absorbed by the side panels and damping material. Putting a fan on the side is opening that side for noise to escape and furthermore putting a noise source in that location. However, in many configurations the improvement and change in airflow actually might reduce noise (at equivalent temperatures) with the right control, so it could still be optimal. The other issue is that a side fan mount makes opening the case more annoying, what with the fan needing to still be wired to the rest of the system, and there's no fan filter there unless you rig one yourself. You'd be blowing unfiltered air directly to the graphics card heatsink, so you'd need to clean that more often.
> 
> I'd use the front placement myself, but I'm lazy with regards to maintenance.


Quote:


> I would use the front or the bottom.
> 
> This particular case has dampening mats on the side panels and top. The fan mounting positions at the top and on the side panel are by default closed up by a removable, thick block of dampening material. The two front positions for fans are always open for air.
> 
> There's also another position at the bottom that might be interesting. It's between the PSU and the drive cages. An intake fan over there seems like it might be a good alternative to using the side panel position. This means you can use up to four fans before you have to open up the side panel and top positions.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> Ok, thanks! So according to you having one front intake 140mm fan, one back exhaust 140mm fan, and one side intake 140mm fan would be sufficient to cool down my config, and better than having two intake 140mm fans at the front and one exhaust 140mm fan at the back, correct?
> 
> @Wezzor, would you agree?
> 
> edit: two comments I received elsewhere which make me think I might still go for the two intake fans at the front, even though as you said DotBeta the side fan might be more optimal in terms of temperatures...


About side fan. It should be usually exhaust, as many GPU coolers blow hot air away to the sides of the card and cool air is pulled trough the fans and pushed to heat sink. This was mentioned in the other post you mentioned.

2x front intake and one exhaust is usually best to start with. Also you can remove upper hdd cage for better airflow (just few thump screws). This action is recommended.

Later, if you feel temperatures are too high, you can mount fourth fan in bottom position or upgrade front fans. If you really, really need more fans: then concider top and then side. This is my opinion after all but it comes from the Experience with r2 and r4.


----------



## Radd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> About side fan. It should be usually exhaust, as many GPU coolers blow hot air away to the sides of the card and cool air is pulled trough the fans and pushed to heat sink. This was mentioned in the other post you mentioned.
> 
> 2x front intake and one exhaust is usually best to start with. Also you can remove upper hdd cage for better airflow (just few thump screws). This action is recommended.
> 
> Later, if you feel temperatures are too high, you can mount fourth fan in bottom position or upgrade front fans. If you really, really need more fans: then concider top and then side. This is my opinion after all but it comes from the Experience with r2 and r4.


Thanks a lot for your help contray, it is very much appreciated 

edit: another newbie question, but will I be able to monitor the temperatures inside the case with firmware that comes from the components, or will I have to buy something to measure them?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> About side fan. It should be usually exhaust, as many GPU coolers blow hot air away to the sides of the card and cool air is pulled trough the fans and pushed to heat sink. This was mentioned in the other post you mentioned.


With my R4 and a R9 290 card, side fan as intake yielded noticeably better results than exhaust or no side fan, especially in crossfire.

Puget systems testing concluded that intake is best for side fan when it comes to gpus iirc.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> With my R4 and a R9 290 card, side fan as intake yielded noticeably better results than exhaust or no side fan, especially in crossfire.
> 
> Puget systems testing concluded that intake is best for side fan when it comes to gpus iirc.


In my experience its subjective. I had and MSI Twin frozr 3 HD 7950 that was 2-3 c cooler with an intake on the side in my old case, but the ACX cooler in my EVGA Gtx 780 cools better with exhaust. Generally its said reference cards with blower types are better with side intakes though. Personally I would advise to try both and see which works better for you. Its not that hard to flip a fan around and test for yourself.







It can depend in many factors.


----------



## joeh4384

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> With my R4 and a R9 290 card, side fan as intake yielded noticeably better results than exhaust or no side fan, especially in crossfire.
> 
> Puget systems testing concluded that intake is best for side fan when it comes to gpus iirc.


I can see SLI or Crossfire how it would really benefit the top card due to the bottom card choking off a lot of airflow.


----------



## DrockinWV

Here is the mod I did to my R4. Once I added SLI 970's my case temps went up to 48c. Now with this side exhaust fan temps are down to 37c...


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> In my experience its subjective. I had and MSI Twin frozr 3 HD 7950 that was 2-3 c cooler with an intake on the side in my old case, but the ACX cooler in my EVGA Gtx 780 cools better with exhaust. Generally its said reference cards with blower types are better with side intakes though. Personally I would advise to try both and see which works better for you. Its not that hard to flip a fan around and test for yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can depend in many factors.


Sure. I speak specifically of the R4 with an open air 290. You also have to consider other temps though, side fan as intake on hot gpus in xfire raised mobo and cpu temps for me, though it was worth it since the gpus were the hottest components and my mb/cpu temps remained acceptable. But Puget iirc did conclude that as a general rule, intake side fan works better for gpu temps..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh4384*
> 
> I can see SLI or Crossfire how it would really benefit the top card due to the bottom card choking off a lot of airflow.


You know what works even better is this:



It's a $10 fan bracket from moddiy, it's just a pci bracket with clips to mount 1-3 80/92mm fans you provide. Assembled it looks like this:




If you have one card you can insert it into a pci slot a few down from your gpu, if you have xfire/sli and a +1 expansion slot to the side like the R4 has, you mount it perpendicular to the cards and it works wonders. When I had a Tri-X 290 on top and a PCS+ 290 below it, my temps in Far Cry 3 looked like this with ambient around 20-22:



Pretty freakin stellar imho.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Here is the mod I did to my R4. Once I added SLI 970's my case temps went up to 48c. Now with this side exhaust fan temps are down to 37c...


Just eyeballing it, your diy fan mount is placed higher than the fan mount on the solid panel R4. The bottom card for sure is not benefitting. In any event, yeah, more exhausts, anywhere in the case, almost always means lower case temps. But what about the component temps? And did you try intake?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

As I said it depends in many factors such was what your other fans are doing, thats why I suggest its best to check yourself. I always remove all pci slot covers and have and intake directly to the front of my cpu cooler so I avoid the worst of the GPU heat mixing into my cooler intake. Airflow ideas are like. .... Everybody got one: p


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radd*
> 
> Thanks a lot for your help contray, it is very much appreciated
> 
> edit: another newbie question, but will I be able to monitor the temperatures inside the case with firmware that comes from the components, or will I have to buy something to measure them?


Sorry for the late answer but haven't been at home the whole weekend.
There are alot of monitor programs you can download to check out temps.
I'd recommend you HWMonitor since it's easy to understand and that's what I guess you want.







http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

EDIT: Anyway, did you get the help you needed where to place the fan? Hopefully you listened to me and placed it in the front.


----------



## Radd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Sorry for the late answer but haven't been at home the whole weekend.
> There are alot of monitor programs you can download to check out temps.
> I'd recommend you HWMonitor since it's easy to understand and that's what I guess you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
> 
> EDIT: Anyway, did you get the help you needed where to place the fan? Hopefully you listened to me and placed it in the front.


Yes, I followed your advice, it'll be in front







Thanks a lot for your help, I'll check out the program!


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Just eyeballing it, your diy fan mount is placed higher than the fan mount on the solid panel R4. The bottom card for sure is not benefitting. In any event, yeah, more exhausts, anywhere in the case, almost always means lower case temps. But what about the component temps? And did you try intake?


Might be a little higher, but over all the fan works great exhausting all the hot air from both the gpus. The bottom gpu never gets over 65c, temps in the case dropped 10-15c. I have not tried the fan as intake, for the only reason Im not sure how to add a filter over the fan because of its location.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Might be a little higher, but over all the fan works great exhausting all the hot air from both the gpus. The bottom gpu never gets over 65c, temps in the case dropped 10-15c. I have not tried the fan as intake, for the only reason Im not sure how to add a filter over the fan because of its location.


Oh duh I was thinking bottom card does not benefit with that fan as intake but you have it as exhaust.

Doesn't the exhaust there create an airflow path that diverts the front intakes away from the cpu cooler? Are you using a bottom intake?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Oh duh I was thinking bottom card does not benefit with that fan as intake but you have it as exhaust.
> 
> Doesn't the exhaust there create an airflow path that diverts the front intakes away from the cpu cooler? Are you using a bottom intake?


No I think it really just funnels out the hot air from the GPUs. I have 2 140mm intake up front, 1 140mm intake on the bottom and an H100i set up as intake on the top of the case using 2 120mm fans


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> No I think it really just funnels out the hot air from the GPUs. I have 2 140mm intake up front, 1 140mm intake on the bottom and an H100i set up as intake on the top of the case using 2 120mm fans


Ahh your CPU is h100i cooled so you don't need the front intakes to feed a CPU cooler. That's a good setup, probably the best possible scenario to run hot Gpus in the R4. You get the air from the h100i cooling your vrm heat sink too. If you were using an air cooler on the CPU I think the side exhaust would probably hurt CPU temps.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Here is the mod I did to my R4. Once I added SLI 970's my case temps went up to 48c. Now with this side exhaust fan temps are down to 37c...


If I were you I would cut out the side panel for a fan, not only drill a few holes. It makes a big difference in airflow. It must have ridiculous airflow restriction with the few drilled holes.
Even the stock meshes like you have on the rear fan, restrict air a lot.

A good hole saw should do the trick, clamp it between wood from both sides, use a guide hole. That's what I would do.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Ahh your CPU is h100i cooled so you don't need the front intakes to feed a CPU cooler. That's a good setup, probably the best possible scenario to run hot Gpus in the R4. You get the air from the h100i cooling your vrm heat sink too. If you were using an air cooler on the CPU I think the side exhaust would probably hurt CPU temps.


Well the way I have the H100i was really a big factor into what made my case temps so high. When I first installed it case temps were not bad at all say around 34-35c, because all the hot air from the gpu was being exhausted through the H100i. Since then I switched the fans on the set up for intake (fans set as push) to help lower cpu temps. While my cpu runs a lot cooler now the warmer air now goes into the case. Before I went SLI case temps would get to around 40-43c, but after going SLI temps shot up to as high as 50c. At that point I thought about adding the exhaust fan on the side of the case to help get rid of the hot exhaust air from the gpus. However my fans on top of the H100i do not push enough air through the rad to really cool down the vrm much or even at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> If I were you I would cut out the side panel for a fan, not only drill a few holes. It makes a big difference in airflow. It must have ridiculous airflow restriction with the few drilled holes.
> Even the stock meshes like you have on the rear fan, restrict air a lot.
> 
> A good hole saw should do the trick, clamp it between wood from both sides, use a guide hole. That's what I would do.


I totally agree that would be the best bet and I cannot imagine how much cooler my case could be, but at the time didnt have a hole saw. Possibly pick on up in the future so that I can lower temps even more. But really for what it is, it has helped lower my temps 10-15c inside the case.


----------



## Jflisk

Guys Fan templates can be found below for most fan sizes. 120mm=4.5 inch hole saw

http://mnpctech.com/pc-cooling-fan-templates.html


----------



## contay

Has anyone modded R4 for 280 rad for top mount?

Or has anyone mounted CM Nepton 280 on front? (Easy mod to mount 280)


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Guys Fan templates can be found below for most fan sizes. 120mm=4.5 inch hole saw
> 
> http://mnpctech.com/pc-cooling-fan-templates.html


Templates are one thing, that's the easy part but getting a good hole saw for metal or plastic is another.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Has anyone modded R4 for 280 rad for top mount?
> 
> Or has anyone mounted CM Nepton 280 on front? (Easy mod to mount 280)


R4 should fit IMHO, depends how much you want to cut and drill.
Just make sure that it's ok with the 5.25 bay if you intend to keep it.

Most cases are pretty badly optimized for fans and radiators, I say cut and drill. Place it where you like with minimum airflow restriction.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Templates are one thing, that's the easy part but getting a good hole saw for metal or plastic is another.
> R4 should fit IMHO, depends how much you want to cut and drill.
> Just make sure that it's ok with the 5.25 bay if you intend to keep it.
> 
> Most cases are pretty badly optimized for fans and radiators, I say cut and drill. Place it where you like with minimum airflow restriction.


I wont need 5.25" bays so I am completely willing to remove them. I know some 280mm rads fit with ease, just drill few extra holes for front fan grill. But I am interested for this precice model as it is as cheap as h100i but CM Nepton is bigger and has Excellent fans. I only mount ssds and they can be mounted behind mobo plate, so no drive bays either to block air flowing.

Btw, holesaw with smallest teeth goes well and should be available in major hardware stores.


----------



## contay

One additional question: I happen to have TWO R4 fan controllers: Any thought how to nicely attach the second one to the case?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> One additional question: I happen to have TWO R4 fan controllers: Any thought how to nicely attach the second one to the case?


If you have a couple of bucks to spend look up a fan controller or thermal controller. They make them for use in the drive bays or not some are actually circuit boards you can fit anywhere in the case.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g47/c17/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Controllers.html


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> If you have a couple of bucks to spend look up a fan controller or thermal controller. They make them for use in the drive bays or not some are actually circuit boards you can fit anywhere in the case.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g47/c17/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Controllers.html


Well it is not actually about that. I could spend few euros for real 6 channel fan controller. But it is just because I like minimalism and small size of the build in fan controller.


----------



## JackCY

It's a fan switch, nothing more. It just connects the fans between these connections on the PSU: 5V, 12V, GND. So you can switch fans with it between 5, 7, 12V. Pointless to use if you have other connections, if not, make a selection of the output, heatshrink the switch PCB and hide it behind the mobo or somewhere inside the case.
Unless you are looking to mount it to be switchable, then it's just about your preference of position and tools/skill available.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It's a fan switch, nothing more. It just connects the fans between these connections on the PSU: 5V, 12V, GND. So you can switch fans with it between 5, 7, 12V. Pointless to use if you have other connections, if not, make a selection of the output, heatshrink the switch PCB and hide it behind the mobo or somewhere inside the case.
> Unless you are looking to mount it to be switchable, then it's just about your preference of position and tools/skill available.


Yes, I am completely aware how switch works. It just would be easy, quick tune to have one switch for intakes and second for exhaust, for example, as my jetflos don't go low enough on pwm to be completely silent. They do with the switch, however. But it doesn't matter, maybe I find a way. There are after all plenty of room in front panel, it might actually fit just next to the original. I'll post pics if I insert it here : )


----------



## Dimensive

Can someone with an Arc Mini R2 tell me if the bottom HDD cage is riveted or screwed in?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Can someone with an Arc Mini R2 tell me if the bottom HDD cage is riveted or screwed in?


Like all other similar FD cases the bottom cage is screwed in for easy removal.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Like all other similar FD cases the bottom cage is screwed in for easy removal.


Alright, I wanted to make sure because in the original Arc Mini, the bottom cage is riveted in.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Can someone with an Arc Mini R2 tell me if the bottom HDD cage is riveted or screwed in?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Alright, I wanted to make sure because in the original Arc Mini, the bottom cage is riveted in.


'

Screwed in, Riveted in the R1. Is that the Kanji for Love?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> '
> 
> Screwed in, Riveted in the R1. Is that the Kanji for Love?


Thanks. And yes it is.


----------



## K4IKEN

Finally caught the Node 304 on sale, so now its time for a proper downsize.. I love my R4 but i don't need all the space and moving it all the time was beginning to become super annoying. Hopefully some mITX motherboards will go on sale for Black Friday, and on that note, anyone need an R4? lol


----------



## ticallista

Define R5? Looks like it. Waiting for official announcement.



http://imgur.com/KlEaU


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ticallista*
> 
> Define R5? Looks like it. Waiting for official announcement.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KlEaU


Looks good.


----------



## incog

that case looks siiiiiiick

there are two things about it that need attention though:

1. how easy will it be to remove all HDD drives and put HDDs in the 5"25 bays (to reduce clutter and augment airflow)

2. how will airflow be obstructed by front panel?

the best thing in the world would be able to remove the 5"25 bay and then be able to stick on an HDD cage in its place.


----------



## Wezzor

Looks pretty much the same to me. Just some minor changes


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> that case looks siiiiiiick
> 
> there are two things about it that need attention though:
> 
> 1. how easy will it be to remove all HDD drives and put HDDs in the 5"25 bays (to reduce clutter and augment airflow)
> 
> 2. how will airflow be obstructed by front panel?
> 
> the best thing in the world would be able to remove the 5"25 bay and then be able to stick on an HDD cage in its place.


I think they'll use screws for the HDD cages and the optical cages. It shows that a 420 slim radiator can be installed in the roof so they must have an easy system for removal.

It wouldn't be hard for them to make it possible to install a HDD cage in place of the optical bays.

I think air flow in the front will be better than the R4 because it only has the filter to go through. In the R4 it had a plastic door and then a filter to go through.

EDIT:

Looked again and in one of the pictures at the bottom it show the optical bays removed and the HDD cages there instead.


----------



## incog

Is this my next case then?!

It totally might be, though I need more information first.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ticallista*
> 
> Define R5? Looks like it. Waiting for official announcement.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KlEaU


Nice, the changes to cases we should have had 10-20 years ago now come to being lol. About time.
Still many things remain unfixed. Remove the metal fan grills. Much higher feeeeeeet!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> Looks pretty much the same to me. Just some minor changes


Indeed, small/minor changes, but for some they can save a lot of pain in the back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I think they'll use screws for the HDD cages and the optical cages. It shows that a 420 slim radiator can be installed in the roof so they must have an easy system for removal.
> 
> It wouldn't be hard for them to make it possible to install a HDD cage in place of the optical bays.
> 
> I think air flow in the front will be better than the R4 because it only has the filter to go through. In the R4 it had a plastic door and then a filter to go through.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Looked again and in one of the pictures at the bottom it show the optical bays removed and the HDD cages there instead.


The cages are all metal now and are screwed in on the side. Unlike R4 cages with plastic crap on them and secured with one screw to plastic.

R4 internal fan door can be removed, simple, one of the first things I took off









I like the design changes though, looks more fresh, door opening side can be changed finally too, although for me it's fine on R4 as it is.
The bottom filter removable to front is a big plus. I hate to remove it on R4 but will have to clean it sometimes, having to move the whole thing to get the filter out








Bigger fan openings are nice but I would prefer them without the grill to not restrict so much airflow as grills do. So it's inevitable to cut into R5 anyway as it was in R4 to get proper intake and outtake for fans.
Bottom radiator is going to be short, not like the 240 craziness shown in pictures with a short PSU and no cables


----------



## K4IKEN

Seems like these Fractal cases get better and better with each iteration. Exactly how it should be!


----------



## Jaren1

I was always telling myself that I dont see ever getting another case cause I love the R4 so much. But the R5 looks real nice, as long as it comes with a window. Would be nice if the window could be glass, would help further silent things down.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> I was always telling myself that I dont see ever getting another case cause I love the R4 so much. But the R5 looks real nice, as long as it comes with a window. Would be nice if the window could be glass, would help further silent things down.


Glass is a PITA to mod. Acrylic is easier.
Don't get a windowed side if noise reduction is a priority XD


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Oh damn that R5 looks gorgeous, I'll probably sell my white R4 and buy it. Only if it has a window though.


----------



## MatthewP

Hi, I'm new to this thread, but I spent a lot of time reading on here about a year ago when I was trying to decide on a case for my new build. I ended up going with the Define R4 with the window and I couldn't be happier. I'm not a gamer and don't plan on overclocking, so I don't need a system where cooling is important. I'm sure the R4 could do pretty well for cooling even with it being built for silence. Currently I only have 3 PWM fans installed and there is room for 3 more if need be. Even with the 3 case fans, it is dead silent. I replaced the 2 stock fans that came with the case with blue fans to match my color scheme and also because I wanted PWM fans.

I also painted the white slot covers and drive trays blue, but unfortunately the paint and clear coat made the trays no longer fit. I could probably get them to fit if I use a lot of force, but i'm fine with keeping them white, especially since you can't see them through the window anyway. I might just paint the metal clasp parts of the trays. Below is a picture of how it looks with the blue fans and slot covers. I'm thinking of putting a white LED in as well... I think a blue LED would drown out the blue components and any other color would clash. It would be neat if I could mod the fan switch built into the case to be used for an LED since I'm not using it for the fans. Has any body been able to do anything like that?


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Glass is a PITA to mod. Acrylic is easier.
> Don't get a windowed side if noise reduction is a priority XD


Why would you need to mod the window anyways? To put some ghetto fan holes in it?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatthewP*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to this thread, but I spent a lot of time reading on here about a year ago when I was trying to decide on a case for my new build. I ended up going with the Define R4 with the window and I couldn't be happier. I'm not a gamer and don't plan on overclocking, so I don't need a system where cooling is important. I'm sure the R4 could do pretty well for cooling even with it being built for silence. Currently I only have 3 PWM fans installed and there is room for 3 more if need be. Even with the 3 case fans, it is dead silent. I replaced the 2 stock fans that came with the case with blue fans to match my color scheme and also because I wanted PWM fans.
> 
> I also painted the white slot covers and drive trays blue, but unfortunately the paint and clear coat made the trays no longer fit. I could probably get them to fit if I use a lot of force, but i'm fine with keeping them white, especially since you can't see them through the window anyway. I might just paint the metal clasp parts of the trays. Below is a picture of how it looks with the blue fans and slot covers. I'm thinking of putting a white LED in as well... I think a blue LED would drown out the blue components and any other color would clash. It would be neat if I could mod the fan switch built into the case to be used for an LED since I'm not using it for the fans. Has any body been able to do anything like that?


Looks cool! Have you considered rbg-leds with remote to tune color and brightness?


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatthewP*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to this thread, but I spent a lot of time reading on here about a year ago when I was trying to decide on a case for my new build. I ended up going with the Define R4 with the window and I couldn't be happier. I'm not a gamer and don't plan on overclocking, so I don't need a system where cooling is important. I'm sure the R4 could do pretty well for cooling even with it being built for silence. Currently I only have 3 PWM fans installed and there is room for 3 more if need be. Even with the 3 case fans, it is dead silent. I replaced the 2 stock fans that came with the case with blue fans to match my color scheme and also because I wanted PWM fans.
> 
> I also painted the white slot covers and drive trays blue, but unfortunately the paint and clear coat made the trays no longer fit. I could probably get them to fit if I use a lot of force, but i'm fine with keeping them white, especially since you can't see them through the window anyway. I might just paint the metal clasp parts of the trays. Below is a picture of how it looks with the blue fans and slot covers. I'm thinking of putting a white LED in as well... I think a blue LED would drown out the blue components and any other color would clash. It would be neat if I could mod the fan switch built into the case to be used for an LED since I'm not using it for the fans. Has any body been able to do anything like that?


Looks good


----------



## MatthewP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Looks cool! Have you considered rbg-leds with remote to tune color and brightness?


Thanks. That wouldn't be a bad idea.


----------



## MatthewP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Looks good


Thanks. I just ordered 3 black HDD trays to replace the white ones.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatthewP*
> 
> Thanks. I just ordered 3 black HDD trays to replace the white ones.


Where did you find those?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Where did you find those?


You can find the trays and other replacement parts here: http://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=All+Categories&que=%22fractal+design%22


----------



## MatthewP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> Where did you find those?


I ordered them from pugetsystems.com as Dimensive mentioned. If you live in Europe you can order from: http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> You can find the trays and other replacement parts here: http://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=All+Categories&que=%22fractal+design%22


Thanks Dimensive!







out of stock already.


----------



## contay

Sorry for bad quality. But here are some pics with "temporary" motherboard. No fans are yet in place, as I am considering between ORANGE phanteks and black akasa fans. Orange would be nice and fit well with Gigabyte SOC mobo I plan mounting next spring, but Akasas perform very well too. Currently there is Jetflo mounted in back, front Jetflos are taken out.




And then there is this monster waiting.


And someone might notice there isn't cpu in place. It should arrive tomorrow, as well as molex to sata adapters.


----------



## JackCY

You have the heatsink the other way around than it was designed for airflow







And it would hang over RAM too.
Where did you get the second pair of clips? Doesn't seem to be the version with two, that one probably has the piper plated in _silver_.
For me any fan on pull that is close to the heatsink makes lots more noise than when it's a little bit far from it.


----------



## contay

In Macho, heatsink has straight fins, unlike in true spirit, where the is tiltint upwards in the end. So Macho can be reversed. Those are actually second fan clips from Truespirit. They are "wrong way around" so they are like hooks where I can mount the fan with rubberbands. I actually have additional macho fan clips incoming, bought them second hand on local computer forum.

About ram clearance: Heatsink is high enough, so it can hover above Ram (at least on those) and fan can be placed so it will have ~1mm clearance. Reason I inverted macho is that this way there is more room between exhaust fan and pulling fan.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> In Macho, heatsink has straight fins, unlike in true spirit, where the is tiltint upwards in the end. So Macho can be reversed. Those are actually second fan clips from Truespirit. They are "wrong way around" so they are like hooks where I can mount the fan with rubberbands. I actually have additional macho fan clips incoming, bought them second hand on local computer forum.
> 
> About ram clearance: Heatsink is high enough, so it can hover above Ram (at least on those) and fan can be placed so it will have ~1mm clearance. Reason I inverted macho is that this way there is more room between exhaust fan and pulling fan.


Oh now I see the ghetto clips









You know, the advantage of Macho is that it's one sided and the longer over hang is supposed to go toward the rear where the exhaust fan will suck the air better from the fan without having the need so much to use an actual extra pull fan, though mainly it gives better clearance for RAM.
I have Macho. And if you look at the "bent bits" on the fins, they form a V when looking from top and as far as I found before it is also because the fan flow is not straight with many many many fans but most blow in a V. Also the pipes are stepped more apart at the exhaust side.
I guess there is not much of a difference in temperatures really, you can check, I didn't bother with it. Maybe it's in some review compared I think I saw one where they tested all the possible configurations and the normal one was best.


----------



## OrangeSVTguy

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/OrangeSVTguy/media/OCN/IMG_93261_zpse7e3b18d.jpg.html
http://s91.photobucket.com/user/Ora...C-462E-8100-8EED8E764500_zpscd3zgvuz.jpg.html


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Oh now I see the ghetto clips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know, the advantage of Macho is that it's one sided and the longer over hang is supposed to go toward the rear where the exhaust fan will suck the air better from the fan without having the need so much to use an actual extra pull fan, though mainly it gives better clearance for RAM.
> I have Macho. And if you look at the "bent bits" on the fins, they form a V when looking from top and as far as I found before it is also because the fan flow is not straight with many many many fans but most blow in a V. Also the pipes are stepped more apart at the exhaust side.
> I guess there is not much of a difference in temperatures really, you can check, I didn't bother with it. Maybe it's in some review compared I think I saw one where they tested all the possible configurations and the normal one was best.


That is exactly like I had Macho before. Real clips arrived today (no more rubberbands!), as did 4790k and the new system is running happily. Then again, macho is still inverted, with two fans WITH CLEARANCE TO RAM. Gaming temps are around 45*C with core running 4.4GHz, only two case fans currently and gigabyte 760 SLI pushing heat in. More fans arrive hopefully tomorrow. I'll post few pics when they are installed : )


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Oh now I see the ghetto clips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know, the advantage of Macho is that it's one sided and the longer over hang is supposed to go toward the rear where the exhaust fan will suck the air better from the fan without having the need so much to use an actual extra pull fan, though mainly it gives better clearance for RAM.
> I have Macho. And if you look at the "bent bits" on the fins, they form a V when looking from top and as far as I found before it is also because the fan flow is not straight with many many many fans but most blow in a V. Also the pipes are stepped more apart at the exhaust side.
> I guess there is not much of a difference in temperatures really, you can check, I didn't bother with it. Maybe it's in some review compared I think I saw one where they tested all the possible configurations and the normal one was best.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Dat Rig


2 Silent Series R2 fans up front, and a Gelid Silent 12 in the back, what are you? me?


----------



## f33t

Hey guys, I just received a define R4, and noticed both side doors were bent at the back by the bottom screws. Is this normal?


----------



## 97discosd

i dont own an r4 but that looks damaged


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f33t*
> 
> Hey guys, I just received a define R4, and noticed both side doors were bent at the back by the bottom screws. Is this normal?


Exact same thing happened to my Arc mini, probably damaged


----------



## R3apR369

Have I posted here yet?
 










Still got a lot of plans for my build, such as acrylic tubing and custom cables, but time and money has been holding me back.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f33t*
> 
> Hey guys, I just received a define R4, and noticed both side doors were bent at the back by the bottom screws. Is this normal?


Looks damaged indeed.

Yours, white R4 owner.


----------



## smoke2

I'm owning Define R4 and Sapphire Tri-X 290 OC.
GPU is not overclocked more than stock OC.
I have 140mm fans: two on front, one on bottom and one on back as an outtake.
During playing Watch Dogs I have temps: 80 degrees on GPU and 84 degrees on VRM1.
Aren't these temps much too high?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm owning Define R4 and Sapphire Tri-X 290 OC.
> GPU is not overclocked more than stock OC.
> I have 140mm fans: two on front, one on bottom and one on back as an outtake.
> During playing Watch Dogs I have temps: 80 degrees on GPU and 84 degrees on VRM1.
> Aren't these temps much too high?


Swap the bottom fan so it's an intake, that should help. Otherwise those temps are fine for a 290.


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Swap the bottom fan so it's an intake, that should help. Otherwise those temps are fine for a 290.


I've wroted it incorrectly, I have bottom fan also as an intake, but hope those temps are good also for this fans config


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I've wroted it incorrectly, I have bottom fan also as an intake, but hope those temps are good also for this fans config


Those temps are not bad but have you tried setting the fan higher? To my knowledge that cards fans are set to run at a low rpm out of the box to keep it very quiet.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> 2 Silent Series R2 fans up front, and a Gelid Silent 12 in the back, what are you? me?


A clone. No, I got 2x FD stock fans on front intake, Gelid Silent 14 rear exhaust and bottom intake.
I don't have 12cm fans at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f33t*
> 
> Hey guys, I just received a define R4, and noticed both side doors were bent at the back by the bottom screws. Is this normal?


No, damaged and that must have been machined screwed in while the door got stuck on closing I really wonder how they managed this, the screw threads should have gone first.

It's supposed to be all nice and flat and you can see that your door is bent on the side as well where the paint broke.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm owning Define R4 and Sapphire Tri-X 290 OC.
> GPU is not overclocked more than stock OC.
> I have 140mm fans: two on front, one on bottom and one on back as an outtake.
> During playing Watch Dogs I have temps: 80 degrees on GPU and 84 degrees on VRM1.
> Aren't these temps much too high?


I'd say that's pretty hot actually. I mean I have overclocked mine and it wont go higher than 72C with the inbuilt fan curve.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> A clone. No, I got 2x FD stock fans on front intake, Gelid Silent 14 rear exhaust and bottom intake.
> I don't have 12cm fans at all.
> No, damaged and that must have been machined screwed in while the door got stuck on closing I really wonder how they managed this, the screw threads should have gone first.
> 
> It's supposed to be all nice and flat and you can see that your door is bent on the side as well where the paint broke.


I thought the stock fans were 120mms? Because I have the same config, just in 120mm.


----------



## flyingcupcake

Nope, both stock fans are 140mm


----------



## incog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R3apR369*
> 
> Have I posted here yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still got a lot of plans for my build, such as acrylic tubing and custom cables, but time and money has been holding me back.


that looks gorgeous

where is your power supply though and what case is that


----------



## malzmidx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> that looks gorgeous
> 
> where is your power supply though and what case is that


That is the Fractal Design Node 804. It is a 2 chamber design case similar to the Corsair Air 540.
Here is the build log for his http://www.overclock.net/t/1513798/build-log-bl-ck-hol3-ft-fractal-designs-node-804/0_20#post_23177553


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> I'd say that's pretty hot actually. I mean I have overclocked mine and it wont go higher than 72C with the inbuilt fan curve.


I have also default fan curve.
It looks Watch Dogs loads the GPU heavily?
Do you have all fans reduced on 7V?


----------



## gopanthersgo1

What do you guys think of putting the 14cm noctuas in all the fan things besides the top where the dampening stuff is. Also, do you think I could fit a NZXT kraken x61 at the top where the dampening stuff is?


----------



## f33t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> A clone. No, I got 2x FD stock fans on front intake, Gelid Silent 14 rear exhaust and bottom intake.
> I don't have 12cm fans at all.
> No, damaged and that must have been machined screwed in while the door got stuck on closing I really wonder how they managed this, the screw threads should have gone first.
> 
> It's supposed to be all nice and flat and you can see that your door is bent on the side as well where the paint broke.


Thanks for all the feedback guys. I went ahead and contacted Fractal before NCIX (as they would have done nothing) and they offered to send me replacements right away. Awesome company.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> What do you guys think of putting the 14cm noctuas in all the fan things besides the top where the dampening stuff is. Also, do you think I could fit a NZXT kraken x61 at the top where the dampening stuff is?


'

I personally think the benefit isn't worth it. I'd just buy a Silent 12 or NZXT FN. Maybe a Nexus RealSilent
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyingcupcake*
> 
> Nope, both stock fans are 140mm


Okay, I'm going off the Arc Mini, so I guess the ATX versions are 140mm!


----------



## Compuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> What do you guys think of putting the 14cm noctuas in all the fan things besides the top where the dampening stuff is. Also, do you think I could fit a NZXT kraken x61 at the top where the dampening stuff is?


I've got 2 noctua's in the front and two in the top pushing air though the h110 radiator; these 4 fans are the only moving ones (gpu kicks in at 60C and psu at around 50C) and keeping them stable at 600rpm; both the cpu and gpu wont exceed the 64C at full load while being barely audible! It's awesome!


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compuse*
> 
> I've got 2 noctua's in the front and two in the top pushing air though the h110 radiator; these 4 fans are the only moving ones (gpu kicks in at 60C and psu at around 50C) and keeping them stable at 600rpm; both the cpu and gpu wont exceed the 64C at full load while being barely audible! It's awesome!


sounds beautiful, does the top 2 slots not having a dust cover get dust in the case?


----------



## Compuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> sounds beautiful, does the top 2 slots not having a dust cover get dust in the case?


I removed it, cut i out were the radiator is aligned; still have a bit of cloth on both sides that the radiator isn't covering. At start all fans jump up to 1200 rpm and within 2 seconds stabilize at around 600rpm , so there's little to no worrying about the dust collecting on top!









Now i've got to get rid of the wd black 2tb and sg 3tb, only things remains audible! ;/ but several tb's ssd isn't in my hobbybudget this year! ;p

btw; i'm using a Scytemaster II with a cool display and intractable buttons for controlling the rpm individual.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I have also default fan curve.
> It looks Watch Dogs loads the GPU heavily?
> Do you have all fans reduced on 7V?


If you're talking about my intake and exhaust fans in the case I am not using the fan controller that comes with the case. I am using PWM fans that I have connected to the motherboard.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compuse*
> 
> I removed it, cut i out were the radiator is aligned; still have a bit of cloth on both sides that the radiator isn't covering. At start all fans jump up to 1200 rpm and within 2 seconds stabilize at around 600rpm , so there's little to no worrying about the dust collecting on top!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i've got to get rid of the wd black 2tb and sg 3tb, only things remains audible! ;/ but several tb's ssd isn't in my hobbybudget this year! ;p
> 
> btw; i'm using a Scytemaster II with a cool display and intractable buttons for controlling the rpm individual.


wait, so is it exhausting out the top too? I don't think the top 2 fan slots have a dust cover so does your ran not get dusty?


----------



## Compuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> wait, so is it exhausting out the top too? I don't think the top 2 fan slots have a dust cover so does your ran not get dusty?


Two intakes in the front (2x NF-A14 FLX @ 650rpm) and two exhausting ones on top, underneath the h110 radiator (2x NF-A14 FLX @ 600rpm) there is a small compression so i doubt the dust will collect inside. Besides, at startup they'll run at 1200 rpm for about 2 seconds.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compuse*
> 
> Two intakes in the front (2x NF-A14 FLX @ 650rpm) and two exhausting ones on top, underneath the h110 radiator (2x NF-A14 FLX @ 600rpm) there is a small compression so i doubt the dust will collect inside. Besides, at startup they'll run at 1200 rpm for about 2 seconds.


Oh I understand, I thought you were using the top 2 fans as an intake.







Do you have a normal rear exhaust? Also, I wonder how beneficial another fan at the bottom would be, it seems kinda nice for blower style cards though.


----------



## Jaren1

Most recent picture since getting my 980 and H80i


__
https://flic.kr/p/pdek2D


__
https://flic.kr/p/pdek2D
 by awdftw!, on Flickr


__
https://flic.kr/p/q9VZu5


__
https://flic.kr/p/q9VZu5
 by awdftw!, on Flickr


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Beautiful setup. Did you put a mirror on the bottom? I hate people like you who make me regret going with a white R4.


----------



## BWAS1000

Random thought, something,about my arc mini has me wanting,nothing but a Fractal design case for future,builds Only exception is the elite 110, only if I need to import it, if,I,get it after I move out of this country, I'd most likely grab a Node 304


----------



## Jaren1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Beautiful setup. Did you put a mirror on the bottom? I hate people like you who make me regret going with a white R4.


Thank you! Yes thats a mirror piece cut to fit


----------



## Compuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Oh I understand, I thought you were using the top 2 fans as an intake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a normal rear exhaust? Also, I wonder how beneficial another fan at the bottom would be, it seems kinda nice for blower style cards though.


No need for an extra rear exhaust, i rather have a bit of an air compression inside the case; more going in then out. An extra intake in the bottom should do quite fine, although i don't see a special reason for it since nothing gets above 64C under full load in my case







Noisy gpu? sure stick a fan underneath it!


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compuse*
> 
> No need for an extra rear exhaust, i rather have a bit of an air compression inside the case; more going in then out. An extra intake in the bottom should do quite fine, although i don't see a special reason for it since nothing gets above 64C under full load in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Noisy gpu? sure stick a fan underneath it!


Okay, that leads me to think maybe putting a fan as intake on the rear, just a little more airflow but w/e, I'd need one of those magnetic grill cover things though. Or, if I had a fan at the bottom and had air exhausting from the back, that would still have positive pressure, correct?


----------



## roniebravo

Hi!

may I join?

here a pic of my R4 with custom window and psu cover
next step will be rigid tubes lol


----------



## Compuse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Okay, that leads me to think maybe putting a fan as intake on the rear, just a little more airflow but w/e, I'd need one of those magnetic grill cover things though. Or, if I had a fan at the bottom and had air exhausting from the back, that would still have positive pressure, correct?


I rather see the rear all closed up, for efficiency reasons the air must go from bottom to top! (one direction) Besides on the bottom there's already a filter, why not putting one intake there?


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compuse*
> 
> I rather see the rear all closed up, for efficiency reasons the air must go from bottom to top! (one direction) Besides on the bottom there's already a filter, why not putting one intake there?


This is what I mean.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> I thought the stock fans were 120mms? Because I have the same config, just in 120mm.


Stock FD fans at least in 2014 are 14cm and they suck, but not air that is. The el-cheapo Gelid Silent 14s are sort of better and quieter. The FD fans tend to make clicky noise when spinning faster. I don't want to spend money on fans since all the fans often run around 500rpm anyway and at that level expensive or cheap fan, they all sound the same and push around the same air. Rear fan actually goes to minimum of 400rpm. On load/games the fans ramp up to 600rpm since CPU goes 60C. So someone here asked about Noctuas etc. well it depends on what you like and your pocket. I personally think these kind of fans are good but overpriced. Why buy one Noctua fan when I can buy 4 almost as good fans instead? The Gelid Silent 14s cost me $5/piece, Noctuas cost over $20/piece.


----------



## Compuse

Ah yes, because you said an intake on the rear; i though you're about to mess up the airflow and wanted some kind of tornado machine!









Unless you're using a stock (boxed) cooler i don't see reason to get 6 fans instead of the 2 in the front and 2 in top ;/ since you've called your machine "silence"

Nice artwork btw!


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Compuse*
> 
> Ah yes, because you said an intake on the rear; i though you're about to mess up the airflow and wanted some kind of tornado machine!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless you're using a stock (boxed) cooler i don't see reason to get 6 fans instead of the 2 in the front and 2 in top ;/ since you've called your machine "silence"
> 
> Nice artwork btw!


yeah a tornado wouldn't be the greatest for my PC.









I was thinking that more fans at a lower rpm == same or better performance at lower noise.

And actually my friend drew that when I was discussing airflow with him, mine sucked, and I just edited his a bit to make it more of what I was trying to show you haha.


----------



## Lefik

Hello all; I'm currently upgrading a rig in a Define Mini, however I'd like to have a windowed sidepanel. Unfortunately, no such thing from Fractal exists; however the Arc Mini has a windowed side panel, and the two cases look in pictures to be the same size, with almost the same mounting. Would a Arc Mini sidepanel work on a Define Mini case?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Hello all; I'm currently upgrading a rig in a Define Mini, however I'd like to have a windowed sidepanel. Unfortunately, no such thing from Fractal exists; however the Arc Mini has a windowed side panel, and the two cases look in pictures to be the same size, with almost the same mounting. Would a Arc Mini sidepanel work on a Define Mini case?


Yes, it should work. They are the same structurally but just look different.


----------



## Lefik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Yes, it should work. They are the same structurally but just look different.


Thanks! Now to find one.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lefik*
> 
> Thanks! Now to find one.


Puget systems has some in stock.
http://www.pugetsystems.com/store/item.php?cat=All+Categories&id=10603&com=d41d8cd9&que=%22fractal%20design%2

Great place to buy replacement parts or cheap system components.


----------



## Lshuman

The R5 is here:


----------



## roniebravo

R5 is so damn beautiful


----------



## JackCY

Still with grills and still with low feet. The main two things moded on R4 still existent on R5.


----------



## contay

I like functional changes in R5. But not the aesthetic changes : /


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I like functional changes in R5. But not the aesthetic changes : /


+1.
I mean they had 2 years.


----------



## contay

Btw.

"New wild color scheme appear! Orange Phanteks uses sneak peek!"


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I like functional changes in R5. But not the aesthetic changes : /


I actually like the more sensible fan covers instead of exposed grills on R4. And the thinner side vents on front panel.
The rest, it's the same case


----------



## incog

I want a window so I don't really care about the side panel. I love how quiet the case is.


----------



## Wezzor

I've been thinking about getting the windowed side panel for my R4. Is there a big difference in noise compared to the non-windowed side panel?


----------



## modkore

hi i have fractal design arc midi r2 windowed, i just wanna ask how to remove the foam dust filter and the tinted glass i want to change it to a clear acrylic glass and for the top and front dust filters i want to remove it to try and paint the mesh, do i need to sand it or just spray it also i want to change to drive bays and expansion slot covers colors


----------



## lupri

hi, i need to know if on a fractal design r4 white version without lateral window, i can put the right panel of the case (the one with the grid for the fan) on the opposite side... are them invertible?

thanks, i'm waiting this information to buy this fantastic case


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lupri*
> 
> hi, i need to know if on a fractal design r4 white version without lateral window, i can put the right panel of the case (the one with the grid for the fan) on the opposite side... are them invertible?
> 
> thanks, i'm waiting this information to buy this fantastic case


Side panels are identical in measurement so they can indeed be swapped. I used to have the blank panel on the left and the one with the fan mount on the right.


----------



## Thrilhouse

It would appear the r5 has come out today, instead of December 26. I was charged, and I have a tracking number!

*edit* on Newegg


----------



## lupri

r5 version is coming out? what's the different with r4 version? i think it's worth to wait a while before buying r4...


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lupri*
> 
> r5 version is coming out? what's the different with r4 version? i think it's worth to wait a while before buying r4...


http://www.fractal-design.com/home/definer5landingpage






The improvements that I see and also seems *(I could be mistaken and please don't hold me to this)* that this case now has a separate Power and HDD led activity lights where the earliers ones didn't.


----------



## JackCY

Here it is expected on 16th Dec. We get stuff a little later than other bigger countries with main markets.
Germany already has it in shops and sells.

I don't feel the need to get R5, sure I would like the more sensible filter removal but that's about it.


----------



## lupri

i think i'm going to buy R5 version, but again... are left and right panels identical so i can switch them?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lupri*
> 
> i think i'm going to buy R5 version, but again... are left and right panels identical so i can switch them?


They might not be as the right panel uses a latching system.


----------



## Aluc13

It is actually out now. So everyone knows. Newegg has them available.
I have a couple questions if anyone can answer please answer as I am considering this case but first I'd like to know a couple things. Here goes
1) Is this case a better air cooler than my current Silverstone Raven 02 case?
2) If the case is better in air cooling what is the optimal way to cool the R5 (Since it barely came out I'm sure the R4 very similar so anyone that has an r4 can help out with this? )
3) How is the actual building of the case? Is it easy? Where were there kinks?

Thanks everyone for answering. Again, I'm thinking of getting the R5 case but the current R4 owners can help with these questions.


----------



## incog

watch this video maybe:

https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCMQtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DSRZIdbdcIiU&ei=CViDVPn4OMvvUJvPg-AP&usg=AFQjCNGAZqRMKovJsR3xk0GBrpSG4H47hg&sig2=cXOXYtfAeR5q92Lr5nPQoQ&bvm=bv.80642063,d.d24


----------



## Macross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> It is actually out now. So everyone knows. Newegg has them available.
> I have a couple questions if anyone can answer please answer as I am considering this case but first I'd like to know a couple things. Here goes
> 1) Is this case a better air cooler than my current Silverstone Raven 02 case?
> 2) If the case is better in air cooling what is the optimal way to cool the R5 (Since it barely came out I'm sure the R4 very similar so anyone that has an r4 can help out with this? )
> 3) How is the actual building of the case? Is it easy? Where were there kinks?
> 
> Thanks everyone for answering. Again, I'm thinking of getting the R5 case but the current R4 owners can help with these questions.


1) No it is not a better at air cooling than your RV02
2)^


----------



## REDEFINE

I would buy this but I don't like the new moduvents, I prefer the old r4 style ones. Maybe they will make a new arc midi for me.


----------



## Barbouri

I ordered the Fractal Design Define R5 FD-CA-DEF-R5-BK-W Black w/window today from NewEgg.
This will be my second Fractal Design case, as I already have a Node 804 and have been very happy with it.
This will replace an Antec Three Hundred case on my main rig that is just plain noisy.
Will take some pictures during the swap and hopefully post a review soon.


----------



## REDEFINE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barbouri*
> 
> I ordered the Fractal Design Define R5 FD-CA-DEF-R5-BK-W Black w/window today from NewEgg.
> This will be my second Fractal Design case, as I already have a Node 804 and have been very happy with it.
> This will replace an Antec Three Hundred case on my main rig that is just plain noisy.
> Will take some pictures during the swap and hopefully post a review soon.


Im sure you will love it. Its very quite with excellent air cooling. And if you don't open up the top two fan slots and run your fans on low or medium its completely silent.


----------



## NYMD

A bit of overkill in a Fractal R4 running ESXi --

2 x LSI MegaRAID (9266 and 9265)
8 x Sandisk Extreme 240
6 x WD RE 4TB
2 x Samsung Spinpoint 2TB

30 TB Raw, 16TB usable, 1950MB/s read speed inside the VMs


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYMD*
> 
> A bit of overkill in a Fractal R4 running ESXi --
> 
> 2 x LSI MegaRAID (9266 and 9265)
> 8 x Sandisk Extreme 240
> 6 x WD RE 4TB
> 2 x Samsung Spinpoint 2TB
> 
> 30 TB Raw, 16TB usable, 1950MB/s read speed inside the VMs


nice cable management. How is the airflow in that one. Looks like there wouldn't be much. Also, that's a huge cooler. What's the rest of your specs?


----------



## NYMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> nice cable management. How is the airflow in that one. Looks like there wouldn't be much. Also, that's a huge cooler. What's the rest of your specs?


Thanks! Airflow is actually pretty good; I'm testing it out now. With the fans on 12v and ambient around 18C:

Samsungs: 28C
WDs: 38-40C
RAID ROCs: 68C

The CPU is multiplier locked w/ VT-d so it isn't overclocked; I can't find a way yet to check its temp through ESXi but I'm sure it is similarly fine. The cooler is a beQuiet Shadow Rock 2; and the rest---

Gigabyte Z87 UD5H
Intel 4771k
32GB Kingston 1600 MHz

Fans from beQuiet and the original Fractals in the front bay. The non-storage gear above was leftover my previous desktop build.


----------



## Aluc13

Ah alright thanks for the info. That's a huge set of space.


----------



## madmeatballs

do you guys think the NZXT Kraken x41 would fit on a Core 3000(yes the old one)


----------



## Latezen

Hello. I have question about Arc mini R2.

I have Corsair Vengeance ram kit and i want to know how much there is space between top of case and ramslots..

I might do watercooling build to that case with alphacool XT45 360mm rad if it fits and monsta 240mm ofcourse









Thanks


----------



## mauley

Hi guys.

I just purchased the R4 a few weeks ago and have been loving it since. I have a question I hope one of you nice people would answer.

I want to buy 3 140mm fans to replace the fans that come stock with the case. Which do you recommend that would provide good airflow, low noise and will fit in easily without hassle. I will be hooking them up to the built in fan controller.

If I was to rate my requirements in order of priority I would say:

1. Noise
2. Airflow
3. Price


----------



## Aluc13

Not sure about that last one but I've heard good things about the thermalright ty 140 series.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauley*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I just purchased the R4 a few weeks ago and have been loving it since. I have a question I hope one of you nice people would answer.
> 
> I want to buy 3 140mm fans to replace the fans that come stock with the case. Which do you recommend that would provide good airflow, low noise and will fit in easily without hassle. I will be hooking them up to the built in fan controller.
> 
> If I was to rate my requirements in order of priority I would say:
> 
> 1. Noise
> 2. Airflow
> 3. Price


You sure you don't want to consider PWM fans?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauley*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I just purchased the R4 a few weeks ago and have been loving it since. I have a question I hope one of you nice people would answer.
> 
> I want to buy 3 140mm fans to replace the fans that come stock with the case. Which do you recommend that would provide good airflow, low noise and will fit in easily without hassle. I will be hooking them up to the built in fan controller.
> 
> If I was to rate my requirements in order of priority I would say:
> 
> 1. Noise
> 2. Airflow
> 3. Price


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Not sure about that last one but I've heard good things about the thermalright ty 140 series.


They are cheap (under 10€] and very good noise/airflow ratio and are very quiet even at full speed. BUT they don't fit in the front as they are 150x140x25. What I would recommend are Akasa Black Apache: They are around 16€, always come PWM, have very good airflow/noise ratio and rave good static pressure which helps very much in front. Also, they are 140x140 and should go as easily as stock fans. Also, they are completely black, if it matters.

I ordered just two Akasas to push air trough my 280 rad which I mounted front. Also my brother upgraded Noctuas NH-D14 with them: They are more silent, have very competitive airflow and higher static pressure with about 60% price of Noctuas.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> They are cheap (under 10€] and very good noise/airflow ratio and are very quiet even at full speed. BUT they don't fit in the front as they are 150x140x25. What I would recommend are Akasa Black Apache: They are around 16€, always come PWM, have very good airflow/noise ratio and rave good static pressure which helps very much in front. Also, they are 140x140 and should go as easily as stock fans. Also, they are completely black, if it matters.
> 
> I ordered just two Akasas to push air trough my 280 rad which I mounted front. Also my brother upgraded Noctuas NH-D14 with them: They are more silent, have very competitive airflow and higher static pressure with about 60% price of Noctuas.


So are they a better fan disregarding the price?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> So are they a better fan disregarding the price?


Well obviously it is not worth paying 16€ each if swapping noctuas to them is a downgrade. Brother says cpu temps dropped 5-8 degrees depending core clocks and cpu usage. And that is indeed by just switching noctuas "stock fans" to Akasas. I think that is HUGE! So yes, I'd say they are better even they are cheaper.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Well obviously it is not worth paying 16€ each if swapping noctuas to them is a downgrade. Brother says cpu temps dropped 5-8 degrees depending core clocks and cpu usage. And that is indeed by just switching noctuas "stock fans" to Akasas. I think that is HUGE! So yes, I'd say they are better even they are cheaper.


And quieter too? If so that's crazy. I'd definitely pick up a few.


----------



## Aluc13

I've never heard of these fans before but I am also thinking of picking one up


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> And quieter too? If so that's crazy. I'd definitely pick up a few.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> I've never heard of these fans before but I am also thinking of picking one up


Well google them. Of course, numbers are just numbers. But their performance speaks for themselves.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

I am considering switching my XB rig to a R5 case, but I need a bit of info on rad support.

Currently I am running 2 360 rads and I would like to keep those.
From what I can see, There should be plenty of room for a 360 in the roof and one in the front. What I haven't been able to figure out, is how thick they can be, before they start interfering with each other.
My current rads are 45mm. thick and 70mm. with the fans and something like 5mm. extra for gaskets and vibration dampening. Would that create any issues?


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> I am considering switching my XB rig to a R5 case, but I need a bit of info on rad support.
> 
> Currently I am running 2 360 rads and I would like to keep those.
> From what I can see, There should be plenty of room for a 360 in the roof and one in the front. What I haven't been able to figure out, is how thick they can be, before they start interfering with each other.
> My current rads are 45mm. thick and 70mm. with the fans and something like 5mm. extra for gaskets and vibration dampening. Would that create any issues?


from the fractal website it doesn't appear to have an issue. But I do recall a YouTube that said how much clearance for a radiator you could have on top.


----------



## mauley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> They are cheap (under 10€] and very good noise/airflow ratio and are very quiet even at full speed. BUT they don't fit in the front as they are 150x140x25. What I would recommend are Akasa Black Apache: They are around 16€, always come PWM, have very good airflow/noise ratio and rave good static pressure which helps very much in front. Also, they are 140x140 and should go as easily as stock fans. Also, they are completely black, if it matters.
> 
> I ordered just two Akasas to push air trough my 280 rad which I mounted front. Also my brother upgraded Noctuas NH-D14 with them: They are more silent, have very competitive airflow and higher static pressure with about 60% price of Noctuas.


Thanks for the recommendation. I will check them out now.


----------



## bigkahuna360

Oh hey, I forgot to join this club. Heres my Define R4.









http://www.overclock.net/t/1524675/build-log-kahunas-fractal-monsta-name-undecided/0_100


----------



## tongerks

hi i would like to ask if h240x will fit in top of fractal arc mini r2 case?


----------



## ampy60

New Update. I love it.


----------



## Aluc13

I'd like to officially join the club. I have an R5 and I must say this case was awesome to work with. My cable management was better, still not perfect. It is super silent I can barely hear it. Not sure how to upload pics, on my phone but I definitely will when I can.


----------



## JackCY

I can't vouch for those Akasa's but I sure would like some and was looking at them, posted the Viper version here before, that's the yellow one that runs faster at max than the black version, otherwise they are the same shape and all just different max speed.
*AK-FN062 Apache Black*
*AK-FN063 Viper*
*AK-FN073 Viper R* same as dimensions as TY-140, 150x140mm so unless you cut it down it won't fit into spaces that are restricted to 140x140mm from the sides. That's the one I would put on a heatsink instead of TY-147 (same as TY-140 but black and white).

Unfortunately prices vary per market and here Noctua NF-P14s costs almost the same. Which is 1200 or 1500rpm. Somehow in specs from manufacturer it pushes more air but has less pressure.
I would still take the Akasa with S-Flow blades.

For regular case fans, I just buy Gelids, run them most of the time at 500-800rpm, quieter than the stock FD fans at the same speed.
Apart from testing the fan top speeds are quite useless unless someone likes to listen to a vacuum cleaner all day XD
It's more important that they are cheap, run quiet at low speeds = below 1000rpm and still can push/pull well through filters/grills/coolers.


----------



## Aluc13

Inside my case on load it is about 50C, or is that motherboard temp. Cause my motherboard is saying 50C on load. Is that too hot?


----------



## MikkoM

Got yesterday Define R5, great case and special cable manangment, look, and it rly do great work blocking noise.








but it has some **** think, probably i got bad luck or somethink but, fan control didnt work, but thinking get another from fractal. left side panel quick locking system is pretty nice but not the best because it got some wiggle.
didnt got best hardware but here still pic


----------



## JackCY

That should be the MB chipset temperature I think. Unless you put a thermometer inside your case you won't know the true air temperature inside your case.

My Z97 idles at 32C.
No idea what X99 achieves.
My ASRock board has a over temperature protection and decent heatsinks. I don't think any of the newer MB run into temp. issues these days.


----------



## 4zp1r1na

Hi everyone my first post on the club but I have my XL R2 since the launch, but since has been trough some mods I did not post anything, any way now is finished and I would like to share some pics, they a re just a few, but I need to take more and start a build log on the mod section.
But here they go.




























Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.


----------



## ZeVo

Haven't posted any update pics in a while, but I got my 970 finally and removed my drive cages once and for all.


----------



## Aluc13

Finally managed to upload this beast. What a beautiful case it was to work with.

Real quick though there are some cables with 2 pins on them. Anyone know what they are for? There is also another cable that looks like a SATA cable but I'm sure it isn't. Anyone know what they are for?


----------



## Hunched

Can someone confirm whether or not the anti-vibration "screws" that come with Noctua fans work on the front panel of the Arc Midi R2? I can't really see if they're installed from any of the pictures posted.

I need to replace my fans regardless as the stock ones are unbelievably annoying to the point I refuse to even use the max setting, meanwhile my NH-U14S cooler is practically silent running 33% faster...
Unsure if the noise is vibration or the motors themselves.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can verify this for me!


----------



## DarkShinobu

Hello everyone, im new here but i checked this thread for several months, there are some amazing mods around, i really like what people do with the FD cases, so i got tempted and got one for my needs, cuz i want to keep using matx boards only









I know it doesnt look great compared to others but heres my Arc mini r2:




I forgot to take a picture of the cable management behind, silly me


----------



## DR4G00N

It's been a while so here's some updated pics of my rig:




Cable management is sorta messy as I care more about performance than looks.


----------



## Wezzor

LOL! Those fans on the GPU's.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> LOL! Those fans on the GPU's.


Ikr, nothing like a couple of 70CFM fans to shove some air between the gpu's


----------



## contay

Pics of mine too. Currently waiting new 970, already sold one 760. Most likely I am going to stick with gigabyte (gaming g1)









Load of pics so put spoiler there.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




First, teenyweeny modding, I cut out the little buttons that place 140mm fans because spacing is different in fan cage and 280 rad.

I also cut out inner circles, looks better IMO. I left one ring intact so filter wont hit fans.

New Akasa Apaches in place.

The Backside. Cables are little messy and in this picture third SSD isn't secured yet.

Phantekses for colour (and pulling air trough while Akasas use their high pressure for pushing). They are hooked to internal fan controller with backmounted third Phanteks.

Closer look for this monstrosity, Nepton 280L.

5,25 Cage was removed: I plan making there SSD-cage in the future for 4-6 SSD with easy swapping/mounting. Most likely I will use CNC milling machine to manufacture it.


Last two pictures are just for overall looks now.



Just showing around, even there isn't much to show


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Pics of mine too. Currently waiting new 970, already sold one 760. Most likely I am going to stick with gigabyte (gaming g1)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Load of pics so put spoiler there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, teenyweeny modding, I cut out the little buttons that place 140mm fans because spacing is different in fan cage and 280 rad.
> 
> I also cut out inner circles, looks better IMO. I left one ring intact so filter wont hit fans.
> 
> New Akasa Apaches in place.
> 
> The Backside. Cables are little messy and in this picture third SSD isn't secured yet.
> 
> Phantekses for colour (and pulling air trough while Akasas use their high pressure for pushing). They are hooked to internal fan controller with backmounted third Phanteks.
> 
> Closer look for this monstrosity, Nepton 280L.
> 
> 5,25 Cage was removed: I plan making there SSD-cage in the future for 4-6 SSD with easy swapping/mounting. Most likely I will use CNC milling machine to manufacture it.
> 
> 
> Last two pictures are just for overall looks now.
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing around, even there isn't much to show


what's your temperature with those fans?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> what's your temperature with those fans?


Room temperature is about 24*C, a bit hot. 

And all fans are running rather low and low voice. Phantekses with 7V and Akasas on PWM control, ~600 RPM.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Room temperature is about 24*C, a bit hot.
> 
> And all fans are running rather low and low voice. Phantekses with 7V and Akasas on PWM control, ~600 RPM.


that's about 5 degrees lower than mine at idle, I'm assuming that is on idle?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> that's about 5 degrees lower than mine at idle, I'm assuming that is on idle?


Well I am running mostly chrome with about 20 tabs, youtube playing and few chats rolling. Counts as idle for me. Afterburner says 8 cores (=threads as HT is on 4 cores) have average usage of 3-20%


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







With Nepton's original fans, Jetflo 140s, it would run even cooler under high stress than it runs now, but they are noisy as old teacher screaming under PMS.


----------



## JackCY

You can cut both of the rings in the front plastic fan holder, the filter has enough plastic in it so it doesn't bend to hit the fans. Oh I see you've cut only the tiny inner thing?
Let me take a pic for you what I did, you can cut the whole thing out no problem.



I don't get it why they've put the rings there in the first place. So much waste have been put by FD into making pretty rings and fan grills. Vrooom vrooom cut them out anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> It's been a while so here's some updated pics of my rig:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable management is sorta messy as I care more about performance more than looks.


Get rid of the HDD cage


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkShinobu*
> 
> Hello everyone, im new here but i checked this thread for several months, there are some amazing mods around, i really like what people do with the FD cases, so i got tempted and got one for my needs, cuz i want to keep using matx boards only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it doesnt look great compared to others but heres my Arc mini r2:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot to take a picture of the cable management behind, silly me


Looks like you are not using an optical drive. Pull the HD bay and mount your HDs in the optical bay and then add a second front intake.

For me I do not use any top fans I fill the front and bottom with intakes and then have a single exhaust in the rear for my AiO.


----------



## falcon26

Got my R5 ordered should have it around Xmas. I'm off for 2 weeks so I will be messing with it then


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Get rid of the HDD cage


I'm thinking of doing that myself, but where would I mount my hard drive? Also, would removing the rings improve airflow?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> I'm thinking of doing that myself, but where would I mount my hard drive? Also, would removing the rings improve airflow?


Ssd on velcro tape behind the motherboard, HDD in the spare 5.25 spot. Some people buy fancy adapters to do it, I just left it in the tray and velcro taped it to the bottom.

If you cant fit it there just leave it on the floor of the case behind the fans in the tray, secure it with..... Guess what







. My HDD in the 5.25 bay never gets hotter then 32c up top, well within safe temps doesnt need direct airflow at all.


----------



## DarkShinobu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> Looks like you are not using an optical drive. Pull the HD bay and mount your HDs in the optical bay and then add a second front intake.
> 
> For me I do not use any top fans I fill the front and bottom with intakes and then have a single exhaust in the rear for my AiO.


Thanks for the feedback Mopar







I actually use 2 fans on the front, the black one is a Tt one that came with my previous Tt case, i think the model is Pure 12 or something



About the Hdds, i think i can add one on the lower OD bay and put the second one on the floor, after removing the lower cage, you think double sided tape will work or i need to get some velcro for that? Thanks









This is the cable management picture i forgot to add on my first post:


----------



## arammcfly

Hi,

does anyone know the distance of the feet of the Define R5? I'll put the case on a shelf that is narrower than the case lenght so I'm looking for this info.

Thanks


----------



## MikkoM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arammcfly*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> does anyone know the distance of the feet of the Define R5? I'll put the case on a shelf that is narrower than the case lenght so I'm looking for this info.
> 
> Thanks


feet is 1.2 centimeters high.


----------



## arammcfly

Thanks, but i need the distance between each feet.

bye


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> I'm thinking of doing that myself, but where would I mount my hard drive? Also, would removing the rings improve airflow?


HDD:
1) suspend it in the case
2) suspend it in 5.25 bay
3) velcro/3M it to the bottom
4) velcro/3M it to the 5.25 bay

SSD: just put it anywhere with velcro/3M.

Pics in gallery.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arammcfly*
> 
> Thanks, but i need the distance between each feet.
> 
> bye


Find a picture of the bottom and measure it from it. Simple.
Plus even if they are too far apart wouldn't stop me to get the case and fix that later. Either drill new holes for feet or put a piece of wood/rubber beneath as "feet" or get a piece of wood that is big enough.
Why put a case on something tiny is weird, especially putting case on wood boxes/ table etc. is like a boom box for any noise. Shelf that better be some badass shelf that can hold 15-20kg.


----------



## Tasm

A way to install H110 + Fractal Define R3:


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tasm*
> 
> A way to install H110 + Fractal Define R3:


No doubt it works. But I would have gone with 240 rad inside the case :O


----------



## JackCY

The two tiny screamers on the MOBO, that would not pass with me


----------



## Barbouri

Completed case swap with new Define R5.
Excellent cooling and significantly reduced noise from front and sides. With the two EVGA GTX 980's folding at maximum, I don't think many cases will reduce the fan noise from the rear of the case being reflected off the wall. I also ended up swapping out the old Antec Tru Blue 750 power supply which served me well for many years with a more efficient Seasonic 860 Platinum.


----------



## falcon26

Very nice man  I am getting the same R5 window black for Christmas. Also getting the Samsung XP941 M.2 SSD drive. So no more Sata cables or power cables in my system


----------



## Aluc13

Nice setup man. Looks very nice. I still have cables on the inside of the case, where the power supply is. For the gpu my cables come with 8 pin 6pin split off. Can you run just one cable or do you need two separate cables? I have two separate ones plugged into the gpu at the moment.


----------



## 17jotinha




----------



## xhaydenx

Hey guys. With the Define R3, if I want to install a bottom case fan that blows up onto my GPU, can you still have the dust filter thing that they put there, or does that thing need to be removed? I tried placing my 120mm fan on top of there, but it didn't screw in right.


----------



## Nitrius

Question, I know the r5 only supports upto regular ATX, but would you be able to fit the Asus Rampage V Extreme motherboard in there? Also would the Corsair H110 fit inside as well?


----------



## Barbouri

Completed case swap with new Define R5.
Excellent cooling and significantly reduced noise from front and sides. With the two EVGA GTX 980's folding at maximum, I don't think many cases will reduce the fan noise from the rear of the case being reflected off the wall. I also ended up swapping out the old Antec Tru Blue 750 power supply which served me well for many years with a more efficient Seasonic 860 Platinum.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Nice setup man. Looks very nice. I still have cables on the inside of the case, where the power supply is. For the gpu my cables come with 8 pin 6pin split off. Can you run just one cable or do you need two separate cables? I have two separate ones plugged into the gpu at the moment.


With the GTX 980's and the Seasonic 860, I am only running one cable to each graphics card. For a GPU requiring one or more 8 pin cables, I would run two seperate cables just to reduce the voltage drop from the extra current draw.
Total system wattage when folding project 10472 FahCore 0x18 with both cards and no CPU folding, is 408 watts input.


----------



## Barbouri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrius*
> 
> Question, I know the r5 only supports upto regular ATX, but would you be able to fit the Asus Rampage V Extreme motherboard in there? Also would the Corsair H110 fit inside as well?


I have the Gigabyte P67A-UD4-B3 motherboard in my R5 case, and the ASUS motherboard is 1.1" longer. I took some measurements and the ASUS would end up covering about 2/5ths of the grommets and touch or come very close to touching the metal of the recessed tray where it ramps up in front. With some shimming washers on the front MB standoffs it might be possible, but problematic. Should not be a problem to fit the Corsair H110 though with lots of options.


----------



## tomyboy




----------



## Aluc13

That's the xl isn't it? Looks much taller than mine.


----------



## tomyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> That's the xl isn't it? Looks much taller than mine.


Yes, this is Fractal Design Define XL R2 TI Titanium Grey.


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomyboy*
> 
> Yes, this is Fractal Design Define XL R2 TI Titanium Grey.


it looks huge but very nice.


----------



## tomyboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> it looks huge but very nice.


Thanks, it is just perfect size. On the other hand, my other case Cosmos II, that is HUUUUGE....


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomyboy*
> 
> Thanks, it is just perfect size. On the other hand, my other case Cosmos II, that is HUUUUGE....


yeah, I had a rv 02. I thought I could go smaller this time around. Was just a bit too big lol


----------



## SclerosiS

Im thinking of buying Corsair h100i for Christmas and leaving the Evo 212, but i want to be sure it will fit. Somewhere i have seen it fitted in front of Core 3000. Can somebody confirm that. For top its impossible because of ram, even if its offseted, so my last option is front.

Thanks,


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Im thinking of buying Corsair h100i for Christmas and leaving the Evo 212, but i want to be sure it will fit. Somewhere i have seen it fitted in front of Core 3000. Can somebody confirm that. For top its impossible because of ram, even if its offseted, so my last option is front.
> 
> Thanks,


I am in the process of ditching my h100i and going for a big air cooler, stay away from the h100i. It's inefficient i.e it will cool well but you have to have the stock fans that came with it at an undersirable level, very very loud.

You can change them out for quiet fans, i.e the best static pressure quiet fans the noctua nf-f12's but then you go up about 4-6c(my temps did with them), because of how weak the pump/rad/block you need those very loud high rpm fans to cool the same as a big air cooler down with low quiet rpm fans.


----------



## SclerosiS

Now with the Evo 212 i have around 20C with fan at around 800 rpm. What do you suggest, stick with it or?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Nice setup man. Looks very nice. I still have cables on the inside of the case, where the power supply is. For the gpu my cables come with 8 pin 6pin split off. Can you run just one cable or do you need two separate cables? I have two separate ones plugged into the gpu at the moment.


Most PSUs have VGA cables that are 6+2pin + 6pin on one cable. It's fine to use them. You can use two cables if you like, it can give you a negligibly lower resistance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrius*
> 
> Question, I know the r5 only supports upto regular ATX, but would you be able to fit the Asus Rampage V Extreme motherboard in there? Also would the Corsair H110 fit inside as well?


As did R4 officially. But with R5 they changed the design and you will hardly fit boards that are bigger.
Quote:


> Extended ATX Form Factor
> 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )


You could have search that and see what max fits into R5, someone must have already measured it in a review or someone can here.

I don't see a reason of getting EATX unless it's a 2011 or server board or something that has crap tons of features on it.

H110 fits into almost anything, depending on how much customization you want to do and where do you want to put it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barbouri*
> 
> Completed case swap with new Define R5.
> Excellent cooling and significantly reduced noise from front and sides. With the two EVGA GTX 980's folding at maximum, I don't think many cases will reduce the fan noise from the rear of the case being reflected off the wall. I also ended up swapping out the old Antec Tru Blue 750 power supply which served me well for many years with a more efficient Seasonic 860 Platinum.
> With the GTX 980's and the Seasonic 860, I am only running one cable to each graphics card. For a GPU requiring one or more 8 pin cables, I would run two seperate cables just to reduce the voltage drop from the extra current draw.
> Total system wattage when folding project 10472 FahCore 0x18 with both cards and no CPU folding, is 408 watts input.


Folding? I always wonder who runs that thing, who pays for it, for the electricity consumed etc. to run it. It's like "charity".
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> I am in the process of ditching my h100i and going for a big air cooler, stay away from the h100i. It's inefficient i.e it will cool well but you have to have the stock fans that came with it at an undersirable level, very very loud.
> 
> You can change them out for quiet fans, i.e the best static pressure quiet fans the noctua nf-f12's but then you go up about 4-6c(my temps did with them), because of how weak the pump/rad/block you need those very loud high rpm fans to cool the same as a big air cooler down with low quiet rpm fans.


I concur. Look up a review and comparisons with air coolers. From my POV unless you invest some serious money into lets say Swiftech H240-X, H220-X or some "custom" loop it's not really worth it to get AIO consumer water coolers, they are louder than air coolers. It's mostly for those who hate to have a heavy air cooler on the CPU and don't mind to pay the extra for worse performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SclerosiS*
> 
> Now with the Evo 212 i have around 20C with fan at around 800 rpm. What do you suggest, stick with it or?


212 Evo is fine. 20C? 20C what? When. 20C above ambient on idle?

I have HR-02 and it's +10C over ambient on idle @ 500rpm. +50C over ambient on heavy load but the fan maxes out only at +60C so it's still not going full blast 1200rpm, I guess 1000rpm at +50C. Can run passive unless loaded a lot, for normal web browsing etc. it could do passive.
Noctua NH-D14, etc. falls into a similar but more pricey category, still cheaper, quieter and even cooler than Corsair AIOs.


----------



## contay

@jackcy

I've been happy with my CM Nepton. On stock fans it is obe of the most efficient aio coolers. Loud as dying pig. But as I found it barely used 50€ second hand on local "ebay" it is damn good for it's money, even I needed 30€ more for 2x Akasa Black Apaches.


----------



## xhaydenx

Hey guys. With the Define R3, if I want to install a bottom case fan that blows up onto my GPU, can you still have the dust filter thing that they put there, or does that thing need to be removed? I tried placing my 120mm fan on top of there, but it didn't screw in right.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Hey guys. With the Define R3, if I want to install a bottom case fan that blows up onto my GPU, can you still have the dust filter thing that they put there, or does that thing need to be removed? I tried placing my 120mm fan on top of there, but it didn't screw in right.


I had (second hand bought) R3 for a year and I noticed really no diffence in temperatures with bottom fan. But, if you mean same kind of filter that is in top slots... it's not filter, it's for noise reduction. You can buy real 120mm filters though, like ones silverstone has. They are cheap and absolutely worth few $€£.


----------



## xhaydenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I had (second hand bought) R3 for a year and I noticed really no diffence in temperatures with bottom fan. But, if you mean same kind of filter that is in top slots... it's not filter, it's for noise reduction. You can buy real 120mm filters though, like ones silverstone has. They are cheap and absolutely worth few $€£.


Nah, its not one of the black noise reduction pads. Its like a part where the fan is supposed to be held, I think . I'm not really sure.

You can see it here at the bottom holding that Noctua in: http://s589.photobucket.com/user/j-g-faustus/media/server-fractal-r3-full.jpg.html

Maybe I just need longer screws or something. The ones that came with the case weren't enough.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Nah, its not one of the black noise reduction pads. Its like a part where the fan is supposed to be held, I think . I'm not really sure.
> 
> You can see it here at the bottom holding that Noctua in: http://s589.photobucket.com/user/j-g-faustus/media/server-fractal-r3-full.jpg.html
> 
> Maybe I just need longer screws or something. The ones that came with the case weren't enough.


Okay, weird. Well, as it is 120mm slot it should go without problems. It looks like it is one of those "tool free slot" like in front? Does it really even need screws, or do those claws keep the fan in place?

Like I said, I bought my R3 second hand and it had just bare slot on bottom


----------



## JackCY

From other pictures it looks like you can just snap the fan on the bottom and screw it if you want tobut don't have to.
It has some kind of filter buit into the plastic holder.



Can't figure it out to install a fan? XD


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> From other pictures it looks like you can just snap the fan on the bottom and screw it if you want tobut don't have to.
> It has some kind of filter buit into the plastic holder.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't figure it out to install a fan? XD


Is said it should just hold there without screws







Seems like my friend kept that filter/fanholder himself. What a j.... anyway. Like I said fan should hold without screws.


----------



## xhaydenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> From other pictures it looks like you can just snap the fan on the bottom and screw it if you want tobut don't have to.
> It has some kind of filter buit into the plastic holder.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't figure it out to install a fan? XD


Okay, well I feel like an idiot. I must have not been putting it in right when I tried it. It would make sense that it doesn't need screws like the ones at the front intake. Thanks for the help lol.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xhaydenx*
> 
> Okay, well I feel like an idiot. I must have not been putting it in right when I tried it. It would make sense that it doesn't need screws like the ones at the front intake. Thanks for the help lol.


Don't worry. It took me a day to figure why Node 304 rig didn't start up: connecting power button to motherboard makes miracles sometimes.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Don't worry. It took me a day to figure why Node 304 rig didn't start up: connecting power button to motherboard makes miracles sometimes.


As is having power and reset button on the mobo









---

1st cleanup of filters ==> whole PC out to get to the bottom one ==> never again ==> dremel time!

*Define R4, bottom filter front removal:*

All masked, I mean everything on the bottom and sides and bottom inside since PC was in the case, only back was open. Every tiny hole masked, piece of plastic underneath in the bottom fan hole since cutting through tape is instant and the plastic also stands a little more far from the cut.
The metal tab is already cut in this picture, you can see the shiny cut. It was funny cutting it, it's not slow at all, then the vacuum cleaner sucked the metal tab as I cut it lol. The preparation time and cleaning is the most time consuming part.


Painted.


Of course I had to make slots in the bottom front feet, could have made them a couple mm smaller, rather added a bit originally to avoid having to cut twice since it's hard to measure and cut precisely.


Works like a charm.


Obviously it won't reach the PSU fan unless you mod/prolong the filter with something. I don't use PSU fan = PSU runs always passive for me, don't need to mod the filter.

Maybe I should call it Define R4.5 now


----------



## Ian2412

Hello,
I hope you guys can help me out...
I need a pic from the wiring for the front audio jacks from an Fractal Design Arc Midi 2.
I've unsolder mine and forgot to draw an diagram.

wish you a merry christmas and a happy new year


----------



## DrockinWV

Finally cut out the hole for my side exhaust. Before I added this fan, case temps were as high as 48c. After I added the fan I only drilled some holes to let some of the hot air out temps would still get to around 43c. Just the other night I finally got around to cutting out the entire hole for the fan, and now case temps are all the way down to a max of 34c!!! This is a huge jump in cooling for the entire system, and doesnt look too terrible I dont think.

Before:


After:


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Finally cut out the hole for my side exhaust. Before I added this fan, case temps were as high as 48c. After I added the fan I only drilled some holes to let some of the hot air out temps would still get to around 43c. Just the other night I finally got around to cutting out the entire hole for the fan, and now case temps are all the way down to a max of 34c!!! This is a huge jump in cooling for the entire system, and doesnt look too terrible I dont think.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


Oh damn, maybe I should do that, looks great too.







. What about sound though?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Oh damn, maybe I should do that, looks great too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What about sound though?


Not loud at all, since the temps are a lot better the fans run at lower RPM and are more quiet. I also game with a headset so under heaving load I dont hear the righ at all. But with a jump of 14c I think the fans are slowed down enough even under heavy load to be pretty quiet. Thanks BTW!!!


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Not loud at all, since the temps are a lot better the fans run at lower RPM and are more quiet. I also game with a headset so under heaving load I dont hear the righ at all. But with a jump of 14c I think the fans are slowed down enough even under heavy load to be pretty quiet. Thanks BTW!!!


Can't believe I didn't think of that lol, how much of an improve did your cards get? I have a headphone i always use while gaming (HiFiMan HE-400i) but it's open-back haha.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Can't believe I didn't think of that lol, how much of an improve did your cards get? I have a headphone i always use while gaming (HiFiMan HE-400i) but it's open-back haha.


The temp of the cards was not as drastic. Temps prior to the fan would get as high as 85c, after the fan I saw as high as 77c. The temp after the fans though was on my top card and there was a little OC on them, it was also while running Heaven, and an hour or so of BF4. Ha yeah open back wont help you too much there I have a pair of Beyerdynamic DT770s and almost cant hear a thing, but I dont think it is loud enough to bug you really.


----------



## Aluc13

That's under full load? That's awesome if under load.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> That's under full load? That's awesome if under load.


Which temps are you referring to?


----------



## Aluc13

The 34c that you have in your post.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> The 34c that you have in your post.


Yeah 34c was the max temp I saw in my case under full load. The temps decreased 14c with SLI 970 Windforce G1s


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Just installed a Kraken X41 in my case (Fractal Design R4) Was a pain in the @$$, I had to install with the tubes facing up and push on the rad for it to fit, as it was super close fitting with the little indent for the PCI slots, also, I wasn't able to use the washers. The fan however, is very high quality, at least the build, doesn't wobble or anything, very solid and great. Just wanted to say something about the X41. Though, the X40 (I got the X41 in an RMA) fit perfectly fie with no hitch. :/


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> Not loud at all, since the temps are a lot better the fans run at lower RPM and are more quiet. I also game with a headset so under heaving load I dont hear the righ at all. But with a jump of 14c I think the fans are slowed down enough even under heavy load to be pretty quiet. Thanks BTW!!!


I'm more interested in what are your temperature differences under load on GPU and CPU.

If you have tried what difference having a top rear fan installed as outtake do? Better or worse than side outtake?

Seems like your case didn't have enough exhaust to get all the hot air out quickly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Just installed a Kraken X41 in my case (Fractal Design R4) Was a pain in the @$$, I had to install with the tubes facing up and push on the rad for it to fit, as it was super close fitting with the little indent for the PCI slots, also, I wasn't able to use the washers. The fan however, is very high quality, at least the build, doesn't wobble or anything, very solid and great. Just wanted to say something about the X41. Though, the X40 (I got the X41 in an RMA) fit perfectly fie with no hitch. :/


Even with a pull fan? It's 140mm no? So rad being tight in the rear position is to be expected I think.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I'm more interested in what are your temperature differences under load on GPU and CPU.
> 
> If you have tried what difference having a top rear fan installed as outtake do? Better or worse than side outtake?
> 
> Seems like your case didn't have enough exhaust to get all the hot air out quickly.
> Even with a pull fan? It's 140mm no? So rad being tight in the rear position is to be expected I think.


Oh snap, I think with a pull fan it may fit just fine, this is only with a push fan, maybe I should get a pair of fans for push/pull...


----------



## JackCY

With a pull fan it will be offset, that's what I saw in pics on NZXT site.

How does x41 compare to other coolers? Mainly air I'm interested in. So expensive *faint* for that I can get two almost comparable air coolers. X41 good but expensive :|


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a pull fan it will be offset, that's what I saw in pics on NZXT site.
> 
> How does x41 compare to other coolers? Mainly air I'm interested in. So expensive *faint* for that I can get two almost comparable air coolers. X41 good but expensive :|


Not too sure tbh, I do know, however, that it barely edges out the Noctua NH-15d or whatever, which is considered the best air cooler out.


----------



## combine1237

Hello, just ordered an r4 (yes, I know r5 is out, but parts had to be purchased from a specific retailer) and am wondering what fan I could squeeze in the bottom with a 200mm psu? From what I have researched it will fit a 120mm fan with a 180mm psu, but I have a 200mm psu so would that mean fitting a 100mm fan in there? The reason I am asking is I plan to crossfire 2 290x in there, and I worry a side fan will no be enough.

Thanks for any possible input.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combine1237*
> 
> Hello, just ordered an r4 (yes, I know r5 is out, but parts had to be purchased from a specific retailer) and am wondering what fan I could squeeze in the bottom with a 200mm psu? From what I have researched it will fit a 120mm fan with a 180mm psu, but I have a 200mm psu so would that mean fitting a 100mm fan in there? The reason I am asking is I plan to crossfire 2 290x in there, and I worry a side fan will no be enough.
> 
> Thanks for any possible input.


What R290x? I was fine without bottom or side fans with 760 sli. But if you feel your gpus atr choking just add side exhaust. Unless u have blower type cooler, then intake might be better.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I'm more interested in what are your temperature differences under load on GPU and CPU.
> 
> If you have tried what difference having a top rear fan installed as outtake do? Better or worse than side outtake?
> 
> Seems like your case didn't have enough exhaust to get all the hot air out quickly.


GPU would get as high as 85c, now it ranges between 74-77c. CPU would be max 51c now max I have seen was 46c. These temps are under load after playing BF4.

I have the top rear fan as outtake and the side fan outtake. The problem was my 970 cards were just dumping heat off the window side of my case. I also have a H100i set up as intake on the top of my case, that also keeps more of the hot air inside, but keeps my CPU cooler.


----------



## contay

Have you considered putting h100i im front as an intake like my Nepton 280L? You Could use top as an exhaust too. Or if you must keep it on top, you could turn it exhaust and (with filter) use back as an intake to feed top exhaust?


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Have you considered putting h100i im front as an intake like my Nepton 280L? You Could use top as an exhaust too. Or if you must keep it on top, you could turn it exhaust and (with filter) use back as an intake to feed top exhaust?


I thought about it but just never got around to setting it up in the front of the case. I did originally have it set up as exhaust on the top, but figured I would try to use it as intake to see what my temps were. It was rather difficult setting it up as intake so I figured Id just leave it haha. My temps are pretty good now so I figure I will leave it as is for awhile or until I get bored of it.


----------



## devilz

Hi guys,

I'm looking at purchasing the Fractal Design R5 for my upcoming build, but I need some help with the dimensions/measurements. What's the measurements of the length between the case feet?? The cabinet of my computer table can only fit a case with a *depth of 395mm*.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilz*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm looking at purchasing the Fractal Design R5 for my upcoming build, but I need some help with the dimensions/measurements. What's the measurements of the length between the case feet?? The cabinet of my computer table can only fit a case with a *depth of 395mm*.


Okay since no R5 owners active, here's something: I measured the case length in image and distance between center of the feet and scaled it with known length of the case.

Here is an image and this should help a little!

A = 371 mm, B = 402 mm, C = 55 mm.

Remember these are not exact but there should not be more than few % error there.

Merry Xmas for those who celebrate, no gifts for those who don't!

EDIT: There's always typos in first review.


----------



## AperfectCircle

Im thinking to buy fractal design define R5 but I dont know which one,I mean the window or the non window.I want the case to be silent,If you have window isnt gonna be noisy?


----------



## Barbouri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilz*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I'm looking at purchasing the Fractal Design R5 for my upcoming build, but I need some help with the dimensions/measurements. What's the measurements of the length between the case feet?? The cabinet of my computer table can only fit a case with a *depth of 395mm*.


Measured distance center to center of feet is 371.5 L X 193.5 W on my R5.
Distance from back of case to front edge of front feet is 444.5 mm.


----------



## devilz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barbouri*
> 
> Measured distance center to center of feet is 371.5 L X 193.5 W on my R5.
> Distance from back of case to front edge of front feet is 444.5 mm.


Thanks mate!


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilz*
> 
> Thanks mate!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barbouri*
> 
> Measured distance center to center of feet is 371.5 L X 193.5 W on my R5.
> Distance from back of case to front edge of front feet is 444.5 mm.


Looks like my measurements from picture were quite accurate, if there is 0,5mm difference when measured from case


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *combine1237*
> 
> Hello, just ordered an r4 (yes, I know r5 is out, but parts had to be purchased from a specific retailer) and am wondering what fan I could squeeze in the bottom with a 200mm psu? From what I have researched it will fit a 120mm fan with a 180mm psu, but I have a 200mm psu so would that mean fitting a 100mm fan in there? The reason I am asking is I plan to crossfire 2 290x in there, and I worry a side fan will no be enough.
> 
> Thanks for any possible input.


There is a mesh by default you can screw/attach the fan in any position and distance even the 140mm.
It will only go a little over the hole since it will be offset.
I have 140mm on the bottom with Leadex PSU, I think 180mm and I have mounted the bottom 140mm fan on a second hole from the original one. Reason being there are connectors on the PSU, I think I had to clear those and wanted the air be blow past them not blocked by them and left some space between the PSU and fan.
You can mount a 140mm there even with 200mm PSU but a 120mm could be a better fit if you don't like or can't have the fan offset to front.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrockinWV*
> 
> I thought about it but just never got around to setting it up in the front of the case. I did originally have it set up as exhaust on the top, but figured I would try to use it as intake to see what my temps were. It was rather difficult setting it up as intake so I figured Id just leave it haha. My temps are pretty good now so I figure I will leave it as is for awhile or until I get bored of it.


Plus with radiator on top you can always sprinkle some cold water on it to cool it down! *just kiddin'*








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AperfectCircle*
> 
> Im thinking to buy fractal design define R5 but I dont know which one,I mean the window or the non window.I want the case to be silent,If you have window isnt gonna be noisy?


Windowed panels are noisier and don't a fan option. Plus if you don't have case on your desk = very noisy to do, you won't see the window with "blinky distracting lights" anyway.


----------



## Aluc13

The window for me is more silent than my PS4.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> The window for me is more silent than my PS4.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AperfectCircle*
> 
> Im thinking to buy fractal design define R5 but I dont know which one,I mean the window or the non window.I want the case to be silent,If you have window isnt gonna be noisy?


If you are not sure buy non window. Windowed side panels surely come for sale seperately, like they did with R4. So, if you later want to make build with blinkies and shiny stuff inside, you can buy windowed side then.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> If you are not sure buy non window. Windowed side panels surely come for sale seperately, like they did with R4. So, if you later want to make build with blinkies and shiny stuff inside, you can buy windowed side then.


Oh wow that helped me out to if I build a new PC in an R5 or something.


----------



## SclerosiS

One more option if you are a bit more creative and good with instruments and machines. You can measure the size of your side panel and cut the same size from plexiglas or order it cut to size. Then spray it with some black spray and masking only the space where you want your "window" to be. That waits my Core 3k, but now havent got time to do it.


----------



## Agenesis

Anyone tried fitting the r5 with the eatx boards like the rampage 5?


----------



## AperfectCircle

I will pick non window define R5 then.

Do you guys suggest any good cooler for it,I prefer something very silent for a good budget.I was thinking for rajintec themis but im not too sure.

btw

http://www.mindfactory.de/product_info.php/Fractal-Define-R5-gedaemmt-Midi-Tower-ohne-Netzteil-schwarz_983818.html

Im from greece and we dont have the case yet,Im thinking to buy it from that german site(if you guys have something better,I would glad to hear).

thanks


----------



## SclerosiS

CM Evo 212, is about 30 Euros. Im happy with it. Do not hear it and it not whines like the stock amd fan with 3,5k rpm.







Hope i helped.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> Finished for now. Although looking to upgrade my 2500k. The BF4 beta has been kicking its ass but no point in making any decisions until the final product is out!


Is that a Kraken X61 CPU cooler?

I have a define r4 with a CM 212+ evo for cooling at the moment. I'm looking to get something like the kraken to replace it.

Anyway.. I have a few questions for everyone, should I stay stock with Kraken X61fans? Looking for a good over clock

If anyone thinks this is a bad upgrade,let me know.

Thanks, you guys rock!


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Is that a Kraken X61 CPU cooler?
> 
> I have a define r4 with a CM 212+ evo for cooling at the moment. I'm looking to get something like the kraken to replace it.
> 
> Anyway.. I have a few questions for everyone, should I stay stock with Kraken X61fans? Looking for a good over clock
> 
> If anyone thinks this is a bad upgrade,let me know.
> 
> Thanks, you guys rock!


Looks like the X60, I think the X61 may be a tad bit thicker... I know the X41 is 24% thicker than the X40.


----------



## ROM3000

Hey everyone. I have the original Arc Midi. I'd like to know if anyone has any recommended fan configurations. I currently have two 140mm front intake fans, a 120mm bottom intake fan, a 140mm rear exhaust fan, and 140mm top exhaust fan. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Latezen

Can i fit noctua NH-U14S in Fractal design arc mini r2?

It says maximum height 165mm and this cooler is 165mm with fan.

Or should i just go with NH-U12S


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Is that a Kraken X61 CPU cooler?
> 
> I have a define r4 with a CM 212+ evo for cooling at the moment. I'm looking to get something like the kraken to replace it.
> 
> Anyway.. I have a few questions for everyone, should I stay stock with Kraken X61fans? Looking for a good over clock
> 
> If anyone thinks this is a bad upgrade,let me know.
> 
> Thanks, you guys rock!


If you are looking for efficient AiO-cooler, check Neptok 280L. It is very effective, but fans are noisy when running max speed.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Sent my Arc mini R2 to warranty and got it replaced for R5. Should get it soon!


----------



## boomski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Looks like the X60, I think the X61 may be a tad bit thicker... I know the X41 is 24% thicker than the X40.


It is indeed an x60. A x61 should fit but in my experience that depends on the placement of the motherboards 8 pin connector. I just barely got the x60 to fit with my current Asus ROG Hero board.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

I had a friend not be able to install the X61 by a tiny amount due to the heat sink on his motherboard.


----------



## DarkShinobu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Latezen*
> 
> Can i fit noctua NH-U14S in Fractal design arc mini r2?
> 
> It says maximum height 165mm and this cooler is 165mm with fan.
> 
> Or should i just go with NH-U12S


I think you should use the second one, im using the Tt NiC F4 with a 155mm height and i think the distance from the pipes to the window is barely 1cm or less, imo too close... :S

Btw, i managed to modify the previous cable management i had, i wasnt happy about it and by the replies of other forumers, i decided to remove the lower hdd cage and use double sided tape onboth Hdds, i used the white brackets from the case as a base so the hdds arent just sitting directly on the "metal base" of the arc mini r2












I think i made enough room for a bottom fan, i think ill use the Corsair AF120 quiet, hopefully temps will improve a bit on the vcard...i guess


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> I had a friend not be able to install the X61 by a tiny amount due to the heat sink on his motherboard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boomski*
> 
> It is indeed an x60. A x61 should fit but in my experience that depends on the placement of the motherboards 8 pin connector. I just barely got the x60 to fit with my current Asus ROG Hero board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> If you are looking for efficient AiO-cooler, check Neptok 280L. It is very effective, but fans are noisy when running max speed.


Thanks.

I have some homework to do. I'm using a p6x58d premium mobo so the 8 pin might be a problem. Maybe offset the install unless the extra hose length can let it reach the front of the define r4.

The x61 didn't end up beating the x60 in this review, but man, do these coolers ever drown out my CM 212 evo lol xeon over clocking is going to be fun with whatever solution I come up with.

http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/nzxt_kraken_x61_review/2

Edit:

There is hope from reviews on newegg regarding the x61 installation but I will probably have to replace the stock fans..


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I have some homework to do. I'm using a p6x58d premium mobo so the 8 pin might be a problem. Maybe offset the install unless the extra hose length can let it reach the front of the define r4.
> 
> The x61 didn't end up beating the x60 in this review, but man, do these coolers ever drown out my CM 212 evo lol xeon over clocking is going to be fun with whatever solution I come up with.
> 
> http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/nzxt_kraken_x61_review/2
> 
> Edit:
> 
> There is hope from reviews on newegg regarding the x61 installation but I will probably have to replace the stock fans..


In case you couldn't find a Neptok 280L, he meant a Cooler Master Nepton 280L, just probs had a mistype. Also, the software for the X41 is much better than the X40, the X40 wasn't responsive so I'd only go for the new one, plus the included fan is pretty nice honestly.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> In case you couldn't find a Neptok 280L, he meant a Cooler Master Nepton 280L, just probs had a mistype. Also, the software for the X41 is much better than the X40, the X40 wasn't responsive so I'd only go for the new one, plus the included fan is pretty nice honestly.


My bad >_< Yeah, so Cooler Master Nepton 280L. Probably Google knew it anyway!


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> My bad >_< Yeah, so Cooler Master Nepton 280L. Probably Google knew it anyway!


Yeah for a second I was thinking that was some boutique brand and just wanted to clear up confusion he may be having. Seems like a great cooler, I kinda want one, but I think any bigger rads and stuff will be on a custom loop in an R5... When I save up enough in the next 5 years.


----------



## Dimensive

Decided to switch from the Arc Mini to the Arc Mini R2, and swapped out some parts.


----------



## Blu3Falc0n

hey guys. just got my node 804 in last night and i am pumped to move over my current build to it. i have a quick question tho. would i be able to fit a swiftech h220x (mounted on the top) with an msi z97m mobo and g.skill trident x series ram?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blu3Falc0n*
> 
> hey guys. just got my node 804 in last night and i am pumped to move over my current build to it. i have a quick question tho. would i be able to fit a swiftech h220x (mounted on the top) with an msi z97m mobo and g.skill trident x series ram?


There should be plenty of room and many different options. At least both chambers should be able to mount it in the front. Top slots can also be used depending on your other rig (HDD cages etc) but front should be sure.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Is this a Define R5 club aswell?

My build isent 100% finished, but m can share a picture of my X99 build watercooled (Cpu only) in define r5?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Is this a Define R5 club aswell?
> 
> My build isent 100% finished, but m can share a picture of my X99 build watercooled (Cpu only) in define r5?


This is for all Fractal Design cases. Looking forward to seeing your progress.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> This is for all Fractal Design cases. Looking forward to seeing your progress.


I am missing 1 ASP120 fan and 1 AF140 fan, rest is just tiny things









Will post a picture og two asap, beware, bad quality pictures taken from my Sony Z2^^

A quick, bad photo^^


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> I am missing 1 ASP120 fan and 1 AF140 fan, rest is just tiny things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post a picture og two asap, beware, bad quality pictures taken from my Sony Z2^^
> 
> A quick, bad photo^^


Looks very nice^^ I am little disappointed on exterior design changes in R5, otherwise I've already changed R4 to R5 :/


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Thank you!

Need a better camera tho^^

I got the case 2. dec, woud have gone with the R4 if the R5 wasent avaible, but it was









Got a 230T, 650D and a R4 in my house atm, 2 of them are folding rigs, one are my friends^^

HW: 5820K 4.75Ghz 1.330V, Cache 4.5Ghz 1.255V
ASUS X99-S
Gigabyte 980 G1 1500Mhz
4x4Gb hyperx predator 2750Mhz
AX1500I
Samsung Evo 250Gb SSD

EK XTX 360
EK 140ml/ D5 combo
Cheapest bitspower nippels i coud find, Primoflex tube.

Very happy with the build, just find it a bit to messy, may be the ``small`` case^^


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Need a better camera tho^^
> 
> I got the case 2. dec, woud have gone with the R4 if the R5 wasent avaible, but it was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a 230T, 650D and a R4 in my house atm, 2 of them are folding rigs, one are my friends^^
> 
> HW: 5820K 4.75Ghz 1.330V, Cache 4.5Ghz 1.255V
> ASUS X99-S
> Gigabyte 980 G1 1500Mhz
> 4x4Gb hyperx predator 2750Mhz
> AX1500I
> Samsung Evo 250Gb SSD
> 
> EK XTX 360
> EK 140ml/ D5 combo
> Cheapest bitspower nippels i coud find, Primoflex tube.
> 
> Very happy with the build, just find it a bit to messy, may be the ``small`` case^^


Ahhh 5xxx Intels. I'd love to invest for one, but it means mobo and memory should be upgraded as well. And I really don't need the benefits from them, as 4790k is bangs for buck in gaming way better


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Ahhh 5xxx Intels. I'd love to invest for one, but it means mobo and memory should be upgraded as well. And I really don't need the benefits from them, as 4790k is bangs for buck in gaming way better


^!^

Upgraded from a delidded I7 4770K, but i was worth it, though, i only play battlefield and oc^^


----------



## Aluc13

Good to see another fractal design owner. Can't wait to see your pics.


----------



## beans444

Perfect, put a Kraken X61 in to a Define R4!

Front mount if you can't install it in the top. Plus front pull should give better temps anyway right? I'm almost sold on this cooler! Noctua NH D-15 looks cool too though.. Anyone using the D-15 in their R4?
https://teksyndicate.com/forum/cooling/i-put-kraken-x61-define-r4/191165


----------



## Dimensive

Will the Corsair H110 fit up top in the Arc Mini R2?


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Perfect, put a Kraken X61 in to a Define R4!
> 
> Front mount if you can't install it in the top. Plus front pull should give better temps anyway right? I'm almost sold on this cooler! Noctua NH D-15 looks cool too though.. Anyone using the D-15 in their R4?
> https://teksyndicate.com/forum/cooling/i-put-kraken-x61-define-r4/191165


I'd go for the kraken because it looks better and much easier to access the RAM and all that. Also, so cool about the front mount. I wish I could trade my X41 for an X61 lol.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> I'd go for the kraken because it looks better and much easier to access the RAM and all that. Also, so cool about the front mount. I wish I could trade my X41 for an X61 lol.


Yeah! Good point on the ram, just ordered corsair dominator 8gb sticks so it would probably be tight.

I'm sold! Just have to wait for PayPal to go through for a nice six core purchase and let the party begin


----------



## Aventadoor

I bought a Fatal Design Define R5 today!
I will be getting it tomorrow.
What configuration would you guys recommend?
I will be using my Corsair H100i with new noctua fans, 2 noctua fans in the front.
2 intake in front, 2 intake with corsair h100s, and 1 exhaust in the rear = best configuration?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I bought a Fatal Design Define R5 today!
> I will be getting it tomorrow.
> What configuration would you guys recommend?
> I will be using my Corsair H100i with new noctua fans, 2 noctua fans in the front.
> 2 intake in front, 2 intake with corsair h100s, and 1 exhaust in the rear = best configuration?


Fatal design







funny typo.

That fan configuration should br good, but you can try getting filter in back and use front and back as intake and top as exhaust. Try and see what it makes for temps.


----------



## DrockinWV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I bought a Fatal Design Define R5 today!
> I will be getting it tomorrow.
> What configuration would you guys recommend?
> I will be using my Corsair H100i with new noctua fans, 2 noctua fans in the front.
> 2 intake in front, 2 intake with corsair h100s, and 1 exhaust in the rear = best configuration?


This set up will work, but just know your case temps will be higher with h100 set as intake.


----------



## Aventadoor

Its better to have:
2 intake front
1 intake rear
Corsair h100i with fans in exhaust config in the top?


----------



## beans444

Forget if I uploaded photos using my new camera, anyways this is where I'm at so far.







outside of the case is stock, awaiting more ram and a kraken x61!


----------



## sugalumps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I bought a Fatal Design Define R5 today!
> I will be getting it tomorrow.
> What configuration would you guys recommend?
> I will be using my Corsair H100i with new noctua fans, 2 noctua fans in the front.
> 2 intake in front, 2 intake with corsair h100s, and 1 exhaust in the rear = best configuration?


Dont intake with a h100i, I did the exact same for a year and slowly but surely overheated my 780 acx sc(sitting in a box now as it would crash often). Think about it, you are directly blowing the heat from the radiotor straight onto the back of your gpu. I switched it round to exhaust and my gpu temps were down about 6c.

Your cpu temps will be about 2c higher as you are no longer bringing in cool air from the top through your rad, but your gpu temps will be much better.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Dont intake with a h100i, I did the exact same for a year and slowly but surely overheated my 780 acx sc(sitting in a box now as it would crash often). Think about it, you are directly blowing the heat from the radiotor straight onto the back of your gpu. I switched it round to exhaust and my gpu temps were down about 6c.
> 
> Your cpu temps will be about 2c higher as you are no longer bringing in cool air from the top through your rad, but your gpu temps will be much better.


Totally agree. Had mine as intake and my GPU temps were around 80 degrees. Swapped it around and the CPU went up by 1-2 degrees but the GPU dropped to 72 degrees.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> Dont intake with a h100i, I did the exact same for a year and slowly but surely overheated my 780 acx sc(sitting in a box now as it would crash often). Think about it, you are directly blowing the heat from the radiotor straight onto the back of your gpu. I switched it round to exhaust and my gpu temps were down about 6c.
> 
> Your cpu temps will be about 2c higher as you are no longer bringing in cool air from the top through your rad, but your gpu temps will be much better.


Did you have an intake in the bottom under the gpu? I've noticed my gpu drop with the intake at the bottom. I'm going to stick one exhaust at the top and a x61 in the front intake with the option of 4 fans.

Edit: also, having your psu draw air out from the gpu will help as well but I have a windforce dual fan gpu which barely pushes any heat out of the machine.


----------



## viljeml

Is ASRock X99 OC Formula compatible with Fractal Design Define R5


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viljeml*
> 
> Is ASRock X99 OC Formula compatible with Fractal Design Define R5


Running a X99 build myself i an R5, using ASUS X99-S though.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Can somebody confirm that H100i can be installed in front of the R5?
I tried a few days back (didnt have enough time) and it seemed that hoses are too short.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Can somebody confirm that H100i can be installed in front of the R5?
> I tried a few days back (didnt have enough time) and it seemed that hoses are too short.


Quick googling indeed says tubes may be too short. Try putting it on top, as an exhaust?


----------



## sugalumps

Psu should face down to bring in and exhaust its own cool air unless you are on a carpet. As you dont want to overheat your psu, I have tried a bottom fan mount but with most cases they are to close to the ground/desk and there is not enough space for the bottom intake, which means its always noiser and intakes very little making it a bad return in terms of noise to cooling ratio.


----------



## JackCY

Get higher case feet. Simple. Add an inch of rubber/wood to stock ones etc. Put something under the feet to make the case higher.
FD still did not fix this on R5.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

I may move to another case in the future









The R5 got terrible airflow on my mobo`s vrms when cpu is watercooled and gets voltages to 1.3++

I bought 2x Fractal 50mm fans for 18$, maybe if i mount them close to mye vrms it will be better









Though the case is designed to have a XTX 360mm rad i belive, its quite a thick rad, glad i didnt choose the monsta^!^

Any tips to increase airflow for my mobo`s top vrms?


----------



## KaRtA82

Hi everyone.

I have just posted a review of the r5 here for anyone interested.

Any questions, just ask.


----------



## Hunched

I hate my Arc Midi R2
Anti-vibration mounts for the HDD did nothing, entire case vibrated and the bottom fan filter rattled like hell. Had to suspend it with elastic.
I've replaced all the garbage stock fans with Noctua NF-A14's, and still my PC resonates like a blue whale.

I can hear my PC making harmonic hums from across the rooms from the front panel.
Garbage case, PC would be quieter if I threw all my components on the floor and ran it.

I cannot for the life of me stop the front panel from making this endless noise, but I'm not living with this.
Going to be pissed if I have to buy a new case and rebuild my PC because of this noisebox.

I have been dealing with this case being noisy for months, worst part of my PC by miles, what a mistake.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I hate my Arc Midi R2
> Anti-vibration mounts for the HDD did nothing, entire case vibrated and the bottom fan filter rattled like hell. Had to suspend it with elastic.
> I've replaced all the garbage stock fans with Noctua NF-A14's, and still my PC resonates like a blue whale.
> 
> I can hear my PC making harmonic hums from across the rooms from the front panel.
> Garbage case, PC would be quieter if I threw all my components on the floor and ran it.
> 
> I cannot for the life of me stop the front panel from making this endless noise, but I'm not living with this.
> Going to be pissed if I have to buy a new case and rebuild my PC because of this noisebox.
> 
> I have been dealing with this case being noisy for months, worst part of my PC by miles, what a mistake.


Try plug fans in one by one and find the culprit. I replaced my psu fan with the white stock from a Define R4 case. Fixed my LIFE!

You might also have a bad drive or a WD black caviar like me.. Very noisy but I can live with that, just load everything else off a ssd and gaming on mechanical.
I can barely hear my machine on idle. Playing a game, I don't care.. Jack the volume! jack the fans









Try put some tape on the edges of the fan filter..


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I hate my Arc Midi R2
> Anti-vibration mounts for the HDD did nothing, entire case vibrated and the bottom fan filter rattled like hell. Had to suspend it with elastic.
> I've replaced all the garbage stock fans with Noctua NF-A14's, and still my PC resonates like a blue whale.
> 
> I can hear my PC making harmonic hums from across the rooms from the front panel.
> Garbage case, PC would be quieter if I threw all my components on the floor and ran it.
> 
> I cannot for the life of me stop the front panel from making this endless noise, but I'm not living with this.
> Going to be pissed if I have to buy a new case and rebuild my PC because of this noisebox.
> 
> I have been dealing with this case being noisy for months, worst part of my PC by miles, what a mistake.


Sounds like you would have preferred the Define R4/R5 with the solid side panel and the sound insulation added.









You can remove the dust filters quite easily and replace them, that's what cases the harmonic whine at certain fan rpms for me. I left mine in because I can just turn a nob on the fan controller past it and they are the best dust filters Ive ever used. Never any dust inside my case.

As for you hard drive, I honestly dont know whether its the actual drive to blame. WD Blacks and Seagate Barracudas are known to have their own quirky noises that can be heard easily. For a lot of silence freaks the HDD and PSU as mentioned above become the loudest thing in the case. Vibrating your whole case sounds pretty serious though! You have a Velociraptor or something?

Bad luck on the fan filter, I know it doesnt help to say mine works fine.


----------



## REDEFINE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I hate my Arc Midi R2
> Anti-vibration mounts for the HDD did nothing, entire case vibrated and the bottom fan filter rattled like hell. Had to suspend it with elastic.
> I've replaced all the garbage stock fans with Noctua NF-A14's, and still my PC resonates like a blue whale.
> 
> I can hear my PC making harmonic hums from across the rooms from the front panel.
> Garbage case, PC would be quieter if I threw all my components on the floor and ran it.
> 
> I cannot for the life of me stop the front panel from making this endless noise, but I'm not living with this.
> Going to be pissed if I have to buy a new case and rebuild my PC because of this noisebox.
> 
> I have been dealing with this case being noisy for months, worst part of my PC by miles, what a mistake.


It could be that your case got knocked slightly out of square during shipping. I would do as beans said and try one fan at a time to se where problems are. As for the dust filter my R4 dust filter makes a funny noise too if it not perfectly positioned if all else fails. Contact Fractal and let Them know whats up theyre A+ customer service will probally get you a new case or know how to fix it.


----------



## sugalumps

How restricted is the front intake on the ARC xl, I am very tempted but I seen a review where they say the filter has foam and their temps were terrible. I liked the look of it as it looks like a really open and simple case for air cooling with lots of room.

Basically what I want is a great air cooling full tower, for lots of unrestricted but dust filtered 140mm intakes.


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Noctua NH D-15 looks cool too though.. Anyone using the D-15 in their R4?


Yessir.



Either quiet as a mouse, cool as an AIO, or somewhere in between depending on your fan profile you use. Very low hassle, which was a plus for me. Just remember you will lose your first PCIe slot due to the width of this sucker. I'm using it on an ASUS Z97 Pro FYI.


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> How restricted is the front intake on the ARC xl, I am very tempted but I seen a review where they say the filter has foam and their temps were terrible. I liked the look of it as it looks like a really open and simple case for air cooling with lots of room.
> 
> Basically what I want is a great air cooling full tower, for lots of unrestricted but dust filtered 140mm intakes.


I have the Arc XL, the airflow is great and temps were good with one or two gpu's. The only gripe I have about this case is that the top foam dust filter is pretty restrictive causing the temps to rise, but that can be easily fixed by removing it.









The front filter is also restrictive but just like the top filter you can remove it and just replace it with a couple of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999257&cm_re=fan_filter-_-11-999-257-_-Product


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I hate my Arc Midi R2
> Anti-vibration mounts for the HDD did nothing, entire case vibrated and the bottom fan filter rattled like hell. Had to suspend it with elastic.
> I've replaced all the garbage stock fans with Noctua NF-A14's, and still my PC resonates like a blue whale.
> 
> I can hear my PC making harmonic hums from across the rooms from the front panel.
> Garbage case, PC would be quieter if I threw all my components on the floor and ran it.
> 
> I cannot for the life of me stop the front panel from making this endless noise, but I'm not living with this.
> Going to be pissed if I have to buy a new case and rebuild my PC because of this noisebox.
> 
> I have been dealing with this case being noisy for months, worst part of my PC by miles, what a mistake.


Anything that moves in the case can create noise or resonance. HDDs, fans (PSU fan too), CD/DVD(aka the airplane takeoff emulator), ...
Even the cheapest seemingly rubbish case can be dead quiet and even the most expensive marketed as quiet case can be loud as a tractor.

Something is making a bad noise or even resonating in your case if it's loud. If you have some loose parts that can move, then fix them, like filters, anything movable or removable that is not hard screwed down. Cages even the riveted ones do make noise quite a but, dampen them.


----------



## fackamato

Hi folks

Great thread. I've a Fractal Design Define Mini. I'm looking to watercool it (get an all-in-one solution for the CPU only). The coolers I'm looking at are:

cooler master nepton 280l
cooler master nepton 140xl
corsair h110
silverstone tundra td02
nzxt kraken x60
corsair h100i
corsair h105

My question is, is it possible to mount a 120mm radiator like like in this picture, without modifications? http://i.imgur.com/tWm7B.jpg , the picture is from http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/30952-help-with-modding-an-fractal-design-define-mini/ . So basically I'm looking for a plug and play AIO w/c solution that'll fit my case without modding.

Thanks!


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fackamato*
> 
> Hi folks
> 
> Great thread. I've a Fractal Design Define Mini. I'm looking to watercool it (get an all-in-one solution for the CPU only). The coolers I'm looking at are:
> 
> cooler master nepton 280l
> cooler master nepton 140xl
> corsair h110
> silverstone tundra td02
> nzxt kraken x60
> corsair h100i
> corsair h105
> 
> My question is, is it possible to mount a 120mm radiator like like in this picture, without modifications? http://i.imgur.com/tWm7B.jpg , the picture is from http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/30952-help-with-modding-an-fractal-design-define-mini/ . So basically I'm looking for a plug and play AIO w/c solution that'll fit my case without modding.
> 
> Thanks!


For what it seems only cooler on your list you could barely fit is Nepton 140xl and I doubt even that. You cant mount 240/280 without modding, if all in there. Are you planning to overclock much?


----------



## fackamato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> For what it seems only cooler on your list you could barely fit is Nepton 140xl and I doubt even that. You cant mount 240/280 without modding, if all in there. Are you planning to overclock much?


Hm why would I need to mod? Is it because the top holes don't match up? Or becaus the 5.25" slots are in the way?

Not really planning on overclocking that much (2600k @ 4.4GHz or so) but I want it as silent as possible which isn't really possible with one fan.


----------



## kingduqc

So guys, I've ordered an r5 a few days ago, now clue on when it should arrive. I was wondering what should I expect from the sound dampening of the case? I'm currently with an HAF 922 that has just about everything open with mesh.

I have a nhd 15.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fackamato*
> 
> Hm why would I need to mod? Is it because the top holes don't match up? Or becaus the 5.25" slots are in the way?
> 
> Not really planning on overclocking that much (2600k @ 4.4GHz or so) but I want it as silent as possible which isn't really possible with one fan.


How are you going yo mount 240 or 280mm rad in Define mini?

140 Nepton would go, but fans are loud as horny donkey. Try 120rad, like Antec h2o 620 for example and fit it with two high quality fans.


----------



## Flying Donkey

Can anyone else not find the Arc mini in stock anywhere? Literally out of stock everywhere.

Also the Arc mini page leads to the midi on newegg?


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> How are you going yo mount 240 or 280mm rad in Define mini?
> 
> 140 Nepton would go, but fans are loud as horny donkey. Try 120rad, like Antec h2o 620 for example and fit it with two high quality fans.


Could he not get the 140 Nepton and get good fans?


----------



## fackamato

Hm OK what about 240 rads? There's 2x 120mm fan slots in the top so.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fackamato*
> 
> Hm OK what about 240 rads? There's 2x 120mm fan slots in the top so.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Could he not get the 140 Nepton and get good fans?


Well sure, but Nepton has rather high price tag. Of course, fans are pwm so they could do in the beginning.

Also, FD website stated there is only single slot on top. Did I miss something?


----------



## fackamato

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Well sure, but Nepton has rather high price tag. Of course, fans are pwm so they could do in the beginning.
> 
> Also, FD website stated there is only single slot on top. Did I miss something?


Crap, you're right. 1x 120mm in the top only. Hm OK so I need the best 120mm (or 140mm, can surely make it fit somehow without major mods), will have a look.

Thanks


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fackamato*
> 
> Crap, you're right. 1x 120mm in the top only. Hm OK so I need the best 120mm (or 140mm, can surely make it fit somehow without major mods), will have a look.
> 
> Thanks


"A total of 6 fan slots (2x120mm in front, 1x 120/140mm in top, 1x120mm in back, 1x 120/140mm in side panel, 1x 120mm in bottom)" So you could use 140 too, but there might be some clearance issues. 240 could fit in front, but not without modding.

So, I tell you this: 120 rad will fit for sure either in front, back or top. 140 could fit on top, but there might be clearance issues. I'd advice for 120mm with pushpull mounted in the back or front. Push/pull gives good airflow and it keeps the static pressure up trough the rad.


----------



## fackamato

Thanks. I ended up ordering the Corsair H90... let's see how it goes.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Can somebody confirm that H100i can be installed in front of the R5?
> I tried a few days back (didnt have enough time) and it seemed that hoses are too short.


I can cofirm that h100i is installable front of the Define R5. Easiest is to mount cpu block on the cpu first and then the radiator, especially when you have higher ram like Corsair Vengeance etc.
Noise level went a lot down, because you can install the upper plates.


----------



## tabascosauz

Do I have to PM/apply to get in here?


----------



## Reaper28

Just a quick pic of my R4 home server,



http://i.imgur.com/Y7adIyo.jpg


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> Do I have to PM/apply to get in here?


I guess there is no actual member list. I guess this is just a thread for everyone Fractal case owner or Fractal case fanboy/girl^^


----------



## Hunched

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beans444*
> 
> Try plug fans in one by one and find the culprit. I replaced my psu fan with the white stock from a Define R4 case. Fixed my LIFE!
> 
> You might also have a bad drive or a WD black caviar like me.. Very noisy but I can live with that, just load everything else off a ssd and gaming on mechanical.
> I can barely hear my machine on idle. Playing a game, I don't care.. Jack the volume! jack the fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try put some tape on the edges of the fan filter..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Sounds like you would have preferred the Define R4/R5 with the solid side panel and the sound insulation added.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can remove the dust filters quite easily and replace them, that's what cases the harmonic whine at certain fan rpms for me. I left mine in because I can just turn a nob on the fan controller past it and they are the best dust filters Ive ever used. Never any dust inside my case.
> 
> As for you hard drive, I honestly dont know whether its the actual drive to blame. WD Blacks and Seagate Barracudas are known to have their own quirky noises that can be heard easily. For a lot of silence freaks the HDD and PSU as mentioned above become the loudest thing in the case. Vibrating your whole case sounds pretty serious though! You have a Velociraptor or something?
> 
> Bad luck on the fan filter, I know it doesnt help to say mine works fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Anything that moves in the case can create noise or resonance. HDDs, fans (PSU fan too), CD/DVD(aka the airplane takeoff emulator), ...
> Even the cheapest seemingly rubbish case can be dead quiet and even the most expensive marketed as quiet case can be loud as a tractor.
> 
> Something is making a bad noise or even resonating in your case if it's loud. If you have some loose parts that can move, then fix them, like filters, anything movable or removable that is not hard screwed down. Cages even the riveted ones do make noise quite a but, dampen them.


It's mainly the bottom front panel fan, but the top front panel fan does it slightly too.
Certain RPM's and changes in RPM's make the sound, and removing the front dust filter actually makes it louder, as it lets more sound leak out of the case and doesn't seem to be causing the issue.
There is very faint vibration in the case, but applying pressure anywhere doesn't seem to help anything.

Everything is mounted with anti-vibration mounts, I don't know how to fix this, wish I could just have my PC located in another room.
All 3 case fans have a wobble I can barely see, front two more than the rear one, and the CPU fan which is also a 140mm Noctua fan has practically no wobble.

I think I'm going to have to live with this and try not to hate my PC everyday.
Nothing I do seems to make the sound better or worse.

Maybe it's just airflow in the case making a weird sound or something and that's why nothing I do does anything, I don't know....


----------



## pdalover

Friends, is there any way to increase the height of the R5 case by fe inchs? my case sits on floor and i would to to increase height for better airflow


----------



## sugalumps

How bad is the airflow in the r5 windowed, I am not expecting anything amazing obviously as I know the purpose. But I would still like to keep my parts cool and no downclocking/overheating etc, it's just the options and looks this case has ticks most boxes for me. Say I put 140mm noctua fans(nf-a14s) everywhere, two front / 1 rear / 2 top / possibly 1 bottom. What kind of temps would I be looking at to comparable cases?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdalover*
> 
> Friends, is there any way to increase the height of the R5 case by fe inchs? my case sits on floor and i would to to increase height for better airflow


You can remove original feet and just add wooden or metal higher feet. Or add something to the exising.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> How bad is the airflow in the r5 windowed, I am not expecting anything amazing obviously as I know the purpose. But I would still like to keep my parts cool and no downclocking/overheating etc, it's just the options and looks this case has ticks most boxes for me. Say I put 140mm noctua fans(nf-a14s) everywhere, two front / 1 rear / 2 top / possibly 1 bottom. What kind of temps would I be looking at to comparable cases?


You should have cool case. But how is your setup?


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugalumps*
> 
> How bad is the airflow in the r5 windowed, I am not expecting anything amazing obviously as I know the purpose. But I would still like to keep my parts cool and no downclocking/overheating etc, it's just the options and looks this case has ticks most boxes for me. Say I put 140mm noctua fans(nf-a14s) everywhere, two front / 1 rear / 2 top / possibly 1 bottom. What kind of temps would I be looking at to comparable cases?


Really depends on what you have.

I just installed a kraken x61 cpu cooler in the front of my define r4 with minor modification and put two noctua fans in the top. Its pretty damn quiet still and I can clock up to 4.51ghz on a i7-930... 130w cpu!









38c idle 75c prime 95.


----------



## khemist

Just ordered the R5 in White, will have to pick up a seperate window when they are for sale as they only had the non windowed version in stock.


----------



## SclerosiS

Someone has experienced a fan to "click" when they turn on their pc and the fan not to spin? I think it has burned out. Was brand new akasa black 120mm


----------



## JackCY

Simple to tell, test it.


----------



## DR4G00N

Cleaned my build up a bit and added a 120mm bottom intake fan. The graphics cards run a bit cooler now with the side panel on


----------



## JackCY

I feel like I've seen this picture at least 4 times already lol. Where have you posted it before? One can't forget the blue/red combo with strange fan positions.
Where did you attach those DIY fan mounts?

Tri-fire must heat like hell itself.


----------



## contay

Has anyone here (E)ATX mobo on R4 with four memory channels (four slots both sides of cpu)? How does it fit? I plan to keep my R4 at least with next hardware upgrade and X99-boards look very tempting as my financial status rocketed after getting job along side studying


----------



## Kimir

Rampage IV fit fine, the Rampage V is the same size.
See rig in my sig.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Rampage IV fit fine, the Rampage V is the same size.
> See rig in my sig.


Thanks! Any idea can you fit dual tower cooler, like NH-D14/15 or Phanteks or Cryorig Ultimate with all memory slots used? I am not going for heatspreader memories, just "ordinary sticks".


----------



## Kimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Thanks! Any idea can you fit dual tower cooler, like NH-D14/15 or Phanteks or Cryorig Ultimate with all memory slots used? I am not going for heatspreader memories, just "ordinary sticks".


Before I swapped the rig into the R4 and watercool it, I had a R3 and a NH-D14 2011, here is one pic with the same Ripjaws ram

you can scroll into the different pics of my sig rig, the air cooled ones are with the R3, but you get the idea.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Before I swapped the rig into the R4 and watercool it, I had a R3 and a NH-D14 2011, here is one pic with the same Ripjaws ram
> 
> you can scroll into the different pics of my sig rig, the air cooled ones are with the R3, but you get the idea.


Thanks very much! I ordered Cryorig R1 Ultimate as all dimensions I could find are very similiar to NH-D14 so I look forward it will fit on my next mobo too.


----------



## schmotty

I just ordered an R4.


----------



## falcon26

Why not the R5? Isn't it like $20 more or something like that...


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Why not the R5? Isn't it like $20 more or something like that...


exactly.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Why not the R5? Isn't it like $20 more or something like that...


Also, some, like myself might not see R5 as an upgrade.


----------



## JackCY

The price premium is a bummer for sure, while there is nothing that spectacular added to justify it.
Remove the two stock fans, discount it by the price of the fans and it will sell better.
It's like when cases were sold with PSUs, not anymore most of them, yet they will still shove you their fans and you have to pay extra for them.

The change in mobo plate? WHY?! Flat is better and if anything get rid of the holes and cut the plate shorter so one can route cables easily without forcing them into the grometted cut outs.
But I bet they needed that raised mobo plate to attach the cages to it or something. Cages, not a fan of noisy cages, I remove them anyway.

The case still has a long way to go to be silent from how it arrives stock.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> The price premium is a bummer for sure, while there is nothing that spectacular added to justify it.
> Remove the two stock fans, discount it by the price of the fans and it will sell better.
> It's like when cases were sold with PSUs, not anymore most of them, yet they will still shove you their fans and you have to pay extra for them.
> 
> The change in mobo plate? WHY?! Flat is better and if anything get rid of the holes and cut the plate shorter so one can route cables easily without forcing them into the grometted cut outs.
> But I bet they needed that raised mobo plate to attach the cages to it or something. Cages, not a fan of noisy cages, I remove them anyway.
> 
> The case still has a long way to go to be silent from how it arrives stock.


I like functional evolution of the case but not the design, especially those damn covers. Case looks ugly when it has top covers removed for airflot, its like there is carved holes there. Top of R4 looks way better, so does the side panel with fanslot.


----------



## schmotty

Newegg had the Windowed R4 for $79.99 and I need something that will hold the H110 I bought. It was the cheapest I could find that was black. It looks really nice in the pictures. I can't wait to get it.


----------



## contay

You most likely have to mod it just a little so you can fit H110 in the front. Or can it be fitted on top?


----------



## JackCY

Yeah it's flimsy but if closed it should sit flat. Opened it protrudes inside.



Not that the covers on R4 are some super quality either, the screws strip the plastic threads in no time.


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> You most likely have to mod it just a little so you can fit H110 in the front. Or can it be fitted on top?


The specifications says 2-140mm fans on top. I will have to see how much clearance there is with the ram, but there will definitely be more room than my current case.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> The specifications says 2-140mm fans on top. I will have to see how much clearance there is with the ram, but there will definitely be more room than my current case.


I couldn't fit my Nepton 280L in top slots. Check my pictures so you get the idea what I had to do for the case. I think mobo heatsinks may conflict with the rad if mounted on top.


----------



## contay

@Kimir sorry to bother you once more: Isn't D-14 heatsink symmetrical, so It doesn't matter which way heatsink is, if there is only one fan in the middle? I plan most likely buying D-14 or PH-TC14PE and use only single fan when mounted on X99-mobo, so it doesn't conflict with RAM not front nor behind the cooler.


----------



## Kimir

Let me take that box from under the bed xD (yeah I still have it despite being full watercooled, you never know and it's always good to test hardware on air to be sure of no DOA before putting it all under water)
So yep, it's symmetrical, btw I have the NH-D14 (SE 2011)

potato pic, taken just now


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Let me take that box from under the bed xD (yeah I still have it despite being full watercooled, you never know and it's always good to test hardware on air to be sure of no DOA before putting it all under water)
> So yep, it's symmetrical, btw I have the NH-D14 (SE 2011)
> 
> potato pic, taken just now


But the heatsink should be one and same? Can ordinary d-14 be upgraded to 2011(v3) compatible?


----------



## Kimir

Yeah they are according to noctua website, it's just the mount that is specific to socket 2011.
Indeed the NH-D14 can be "upgraded" to socket 2011 with the NM-I2011 Mounting-Kit


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimir*
> 
> Yeah they are according to noctua website, it's just the mount that is specific to socket 2011.
> Indeed the NH-D14 can be "upgraded" to socket 2011 with the NM-I2011 Mounting-Kit


Great, thanks! Looks like I am going for D-14 or Phanteks then, even thought I considered NH-U14S too. D-15 is wider so but I think I am more likely to use pce slot it might block rather than use little extra cooling potential. Phanteks would be for looks, black heat sink is always black heatsink, after all.


----------



## pdalover

Friends,

Seeking your help/opinions on best case fan placement for my new build in Define R5..

I have bought 2x Noctua A15 Fans and are getting 3 Fractal incase fans due to a promotion.


----------



## JackCY

The top will suck in dust.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pdalover*
> 
> Friends,
> 
> Seeking your help/opinions on best case fan placement for my new build in Define R5..
> 
> I have bought 2x Noctua A15 Fans and are getting 3 Fractal incase fans due to a promotion.


I've found through trial and error that a fan mounted behind the 5.25 bays with cable ties facing the CPU cooler works a bit better then a top front intake, top front intake helps as long as your rig has plenty of space above it. Underneath the desk or similar it will recycle warm air from the back exhaust, the 5.25 bay fan I mentioned always works better whatever the situation for me.I think because it pulls the air forward from the front fans and through the bays and stops the GPU exhaust mixing with the cooler intake so much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> The top will suck in dust.


I agree, that's why you should also use a dust filter like one of the Silverstone ones if you go that way. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999226. Damn they're expensive in America I bought some for about 3 GBP each last year. Funny that they don't provide filters for the top like the Arc Midi.


----------



## Wezzor

To be honest I'd just stick with the front intake fans and the exhaust at the rear ofc.


----------



## devilz

Here's my R5 build which replaces my 5 y.o HP laptop that's dying. Cable management isn't perfect, but I'm pleased with it considering it's my very first build.









i5 4590
Gigabyte H97M Gaming 3
8GB-1600 Corsair Vengeance LP
Transcend 256GB SSD
1TB WD Blue
Asus optical drive
Corsair RM-650



Future upgrades: GTX 9xx, replace stock cpu fan, add another case fan/s

When I add a gpu, is it better to install another case fan at the bottom or front??


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devilz*
> 
> Here's my R5 build which replaces my 5 y.o HP laptop that's dying. Cable management isn't perfect, but I'm pleased with it considering it's my very first build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5 4590
> Gigabyte H97M Gaming 3
> 8GB-1600 Corsair Vengeance LP
> Transcend 256GB SSD
> 1TB WD Blue
> Asus optical drive
> Corsair RM-650
> 
> 
> 
> Future upgrades: GTX 9xx, replace stock cpu fan, add another case fan/s
> 
> When I add a gpu, is it better to install another case fan at the bottom or front??


I'd remove the top or both hdd cages and put the 3.5 in the optical Bay and the ssd behind the mobo. Have 2 intake at the front, 1 intake in the floor and 1 exhaust at the rear and see how the temps are.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I'd remove the top or both hdd cages and put the 3.5 in the optical Bay and the ssd behind the mobo. Have 2 intake at the front, 1 intake in the floor and 1 exhaust at the rear and see how the temps are.


This ^^
But I'd would skip the bottom intake since you wont need it with 1x GPU.


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I couldn't fit my Nepton 280L in top slots. Check my pictures so you get the idea what I had to do for the case. I think mobo heatsinks may conflict with the rad if mounted on top.


You mounted it in the front? Had to remove both cages I see. I have one SSD I can mount behind the MB, but the 2x HDD and DVD will probably not all fit in the 5.25" Bay. I also just realized that there is no place to put my 3.5" media card reader.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/idstOUK8j

Got my R5 today, will be removing all drive cages to make room for rads.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> You mounted it in the front? Had to remove both cages I see. I have one SSD I can mount behind the MB, but the 2x HDD and DVD will probably not all fit in the 5.25" Bay. I also just realized that there is no place to put my 3.5" media card reader.


You are going to have hard times then. Except! Lower drive cage CAN be moved more towards the psu, as it has 120mm fan holespacing. Try it that way?


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> You are going to have hard times then. Except! Lower drive cage CAN be moved more towards the psu, as it has 120mm fan holespacing. Try it that way?


That, or I'm going to have to cut a hole in the top vents to put my water-block through, and mount the radiator outside the case on top.


----------



## pdalover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I've found through trial and error that a fan mounted behind the 5.25 bays with cable ties facing the CPU cooler works a bit better then a top front intake, top front intake helps as long as your rig has plenty of space above it. Underneath the desk or similar it will recycle warm air from the back exhaust, the 5.25 bay fan I mentioned always works better whatever the situation for me.I think because it pulls the air forward from the front fans and through the bays and stops the GPU exhaust mixing with the cooler intake so much.
> I agree, that's why you should also use a dust filter like one of the Silverstone ones if you go that way. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999226. Damn they're expensive in America I bought some for about 3 GBP each last year. Funny that they don't provide filters for the top like the Arc Midi.


Thanks bro, I have removed all the hdd/odd cage except the one in bottom so the top fan mounted in middle should be able to flow air to CPU cooler directly. Additionally the PC would placed on the side of the table so there is plenty of space for warm air to escape.


----------



## pdalover

Additionally, i have notied that my Intel 730 SSD seems to be FAT for the SSD mounts and cannot be mouted, ended up mounting in the 3.5 inch drive caddy. Anyone has same issue?


----------



## moda

If anyone is interested, I moved my rig, including dual radiator custom watercooled loop, from a Corsair 750D into a Fractal Designs Define R5 and did a tear down:
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1153575

Photo story:


http://imgur.com/mWFSM


Let me know if anyone has any questions on the R5, which seems to be a great case, more than happy to recommend it to almost everyone! Never mind my overly verbose language and how nitpicky I was, it really is a great case, it was really only little things, or things that 99.9% of people would never notice that I had issues with.


----------



## Hunched

I posted a while back about noise issues with my Arc Midi R2

Seems like I found it, can't really fix it though unless anyone has suggestions.
I have 3 Noctua NF-A14 fans in my case, all of which vibrate but it isn't too noticeable, but all 3 get very loud at around 1050rpm, actually being quieter at even higher RPM's.
Not a defective fan as all 3 do it, they just don't like working around that exact speed for whatever reason.

The cheap plastic front panel on the Arc Midi R2 does a fantastic job of amplifying the noise, the noise persists even with the front panel detached from the case, vibrations throughout.
All the fans are mounted with the anti-vibration "screws" so there isn't much else I can do, applying pressure doesn't help anything.

Now... running only one of the fans on the front panel will cause a much more pleasant CONSTANT vibration, but running both as nothing is identical, the vibrations fight and make my PC sound like Skrillex.
I don't understand how the people in this topic with 2 Noctua fans on their front panel deal with the noise, or how they don't have it.
I can somewhat deal with the noise of the one fan shooting vibrations throughout the front panel, it's a constant sound, but two causes droning that is inconsistent and it's very distracting.

So I've relocated the bottom fan on the front panel to the intake on the bottom of the case, which isn't the quietest location, but now there aren't vibrations fighting with each other causing inconsistent droning.
Actually may have improved temps on my GPU by a very tiny amount, which is beneficial as it's often the hottest and loudest part of my PC.

My GPU is easily the loudest part of my PC when it gets going, but it's nowhere near as annoying as the case fans were, as the sound it produces is consistent and not deep rumbling and droning.

I've tested all 3 Noctua out of the case by holding them when they go around 1050rpm, they all do it, it's definitely the fans that do this.
I don't know whether to be upset with the fans for having a very strong rumble at specific RPM's or to be upset with my case for being so poor at dampening sounds, it actually amplifies them.
I don't care if it's a silence optimized case or not, a good case shouldn't make things louder than they are, it should be neutral, no louder or quieter, it shouldn't significantly increase the noise.
Arc Midi R2's front panel comes with built in sound amplifying technology...

I already had to suspend my HDD with elastic because this case was so bad with it, if I told you I threw a metal vibrator in it you would have believed it.
I suppose I'll get a silence optimized case next time if that translates to "doesn't make stuff you put in it suddenly 10 times louder"


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I posted a while back about noise issues with my Arc Midi R2
> 
> Seems like I found it, can't really fix it though unless anyone has suggestions.
> I have 3 Noctua NF-A14 fans in my case, all of which vibrate but it isn't too noticeable, but all 3 get very loud at around 1050rpm, actually being quieter at even higher RPM's.
> Not a defective fan as all 3 do it, they just don't like working around that exact speed for whatever reason.
> 
> The cheap plastic front panel on the Arc Midi R2 does a fantastic job of amplifying the noise, the noise persists even with the front panel detached from the case, vibrations throughout.
> All the fans are mounted with the anti-vibration "screws" so there isn't much else I can do, applying pressure doesn't help anything.
> 
> Now... running only one of the fans on the front panel will cause a much more pleasant CONSTANT vibration, but running both as nothing is identical, the vibrations fight and make my PC sound like Skrillex.
> I don't understand how the people in this topic with 2 Noctua fans on their front panel deal with the noise, or how they don't have it.
> I can somewhat deal with the noise of the one fan shooting vibrations throughout the front panel, it's a constant sound, but two causes droning that is inconsistent and it's very distracting.
> 
> So I've relocated the bottom fan on the front panel to the intake on the bottom of the case, which isn't the quietest location, but now there aren't vibrations fighting with each other causing inconsistent droning.
> Actually may have improved temps on my GPU by a very tiny amount, which is beneficial as it's often the hottest and loudest part of my PC.
> 
> My GPU is easily the loudest part of my PC when it gets going, but it's nowhere near as annoying as the case fans were, as the sound it produces is consistent and not deep rumbling and droning.
> 
> I've tested all 3 Noctua out of the case by holding them when they go around 1050rpm, they all do it, it's definitely the fans that do this.
> I don't know whether to be upset with the fans for having a very strong rumble at specific RPM's or to be upset with my case for being so poor at dampening sounds, it actually amplifies them.
> I don't care if it's a silence optimized case or not, a good case shouldn't make things louder than they are, it should be neutral, no louder or quieter, it shouldn't significantly increase the noise.
> Arc Midi R2's front panel comes with built in sound amplifying technology...
> 
> I already had to suspend my HDD with elastic because this case was so bad with it, if I told you I threw a metal vibrator in it you would have believed it.
> I suppose I'll get a silence optimized case next time if that translates to "doesn't make stuff you put in it suddenly 10 times louder"


Fighting this right now on my D15. Mine rumble at around 800 rpm. This is in an R4.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*


I'm really at a loss as to explain the vibration problems you are describing. I do get a sort of resonance at a certain low rpm from my front fans but I simply turn my fan controller a fraction and it goes past it. Also if I take off the dust filter panel it stops which is contrary to your experience.

Your hard drive noise problem also baffles me. Although I do not use the cages any more I used one for a good couple of months and never experienced any kind of vibration noises. This is with a 1TB Seagate Barracuda, theyre not known for being all that quiet. I had this whole rig in another case before and I haven't been dissapointed at all.

Have you considered RMAíng the case? I think someone mentioned earlier it's possible its partly a manufacturing defect or it could even have taken a knock during shipping at some point that has bent it fractionally out of shape that might be causing this.

I understand it's a bother to do, but if it annoys you so much then at least you get to try another for free and if it is still an issue you can always Ebay it as nearly new and move on to something different.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xaeryan*
> 
> Fighting this right now on my D15. Mine rumble at around 800 rpm. This is in an R4.


Weird. I don't have this problem.


----------



## contay

Vibrations are weird thing at your whole system may affect if something vibrates or not, because mass of your object (your system and it's parts) changes which frequency causes resonance.

Btw, I might start a war here. But do I have to summon @AndenAnden with his massive show off di... rads. I've read your build blog but as I speak Swedish very poorly (I speak some, dear neighbour) I could't figure what exactly did you do to metal plate behind plastic front panel. I see 5.25" slots as a waste and idea of two 200 mm fans in front sounds rather fun. Maybe you could help me?

My current idea is having two machined parts on on both sides of the current fan mount, a rail like structure. Parts (frame) would be attached with magnets. Between case front plate and frame would be filter and fans would be attached with screws on other side of the frame. Sounds weird but I will post cad-made photo as soon as I can


----------



## Hunched

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xaeryan*
> 
> Fighting this right now on my D15. Mine rumble at around 800 rpm. This is in an R4.


I didn't mention it, but between 750-800rpm it gets noisier for me as well, but nowhere near as noisy at around 1050rpm
Those are the only two spots that I've noticed my fans will start vibrating in my hand more than anywhere else, no idea why those are the sweet spots for turbulence or whatever it is.
The fans don't get much louder when holding them at these RPM's, they just go from not really vibrating at all to a lot of vibrating that I can feel, not so much hear.

I have a Noctua NH-U14S which is identical to my case fans besides its frame and the reason I got my case fans in the first place.
I don't know if it creates the same vibration, I've never checked with my hand, but I've never heard it suddenly get louder at around 800rpm and 1050rpm, then again it would have more material to travel through to reach the case to make noise if it did it, vibrations would dissipate more from that if they are present from that fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> Your hard drive noise problem also baffles me.
> 
> Have you considered RMAíng the case? I think someone mentioned earlier it's possible its partly a manufacturing defect or it could even have taken a knock during shipping at some point that has bent it fractionally out of shape that might be causing this.
> 
> I understand it's a bother to do, but if it annoys you so much then at least you get to try another for free and if it is still an issue you can always Ebay it as nearly new and move on to something different.


The HDD noise was abysmal, sightly moving the case could temporarily stop the noise but it usually came back, and caused the bottom fan filter to vibrate and be very noisy, but wasn't the only thing being noisy, whole case had vibrations throughout from the HDD...

I feel like if I RMA it, it would be a lot of work to probably accomplish nothing, not to mention not being able to use my PC and requiring me to disassemble and rebuild it...
I have found other people with major complaints of HDD noise on the Arc Midi R2, not so much with fan noise though.
I've found about one result of somebody else noticing Noctua NF-A14's get shaky at around 1050rpm.

Obviously I can't fix my fans vibrating which all 3 do, it just sucks that the case is so bad at isolating sounds, as they don't really make too much noise at these RPM's out of the case.
No matter what I do, certain RPM's will resonate throughout the case, vibrations can be felt on the front panel more than anywhere else.
The front panel doesn't cause all the noise, but a good amount of it. I should have known not to get a case where you attach moving parts to plastic, that's a horrible idea.


----------



## fackamato

Just put a Corsair H90 in my design define mini case in the cop. Kind of fits, my motherboard's fan connectors on the top are preventing a perfect fit. But it works.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I didn't mention it, but between 750-800rpm it gets noisier for me as well, but nowhere near as noisy at around 1050rpm
> Those are the only two spots that I've noticed my fans will start vibrating in my hand more than anywhere else, no idea why those are the sweet spots for turbulence or whatever it is.
> The fans don't get much louder when holding them at these RPM's, they just go from not really vibrating at all to a lot of vibrating that I can feel, not so much hear.
> 
> I have a Noctua NH-U14S which is identical to my case fans besides its frame and the reason I got my case fans in the first place.
> I don't know if it creates the same vibration, I've never checked with my hand, but I've never heard it suddenly get louder at around 800rpm and 1050rpm, then again it would have more material to travel through to reach the case to make noise if it did it, vibrations would dissipate more from that if they are present from that fan.
> The HDD noise was abysmal, sightly moving the case could temporarily stop the noise but it usually came back, and caused the bottom fan filter to vibrate and be very noisy, but wasn't the only thing being noisy, whole case had vibrations throughout from the HDD...
> 
> I feel like if I RMA it, it would be a lot of work to probably accomplish nothing, not to mention not being able to use my PC and requiring me to disassemble and rebuild it...
> I have found other people with major complaints of HDD noise on the Arc Midi R2, not so much with fan noise though.
> I've found about one result of somebody else noticing Noctua NF-A14's get shaky at around 1050rpm.
> 
> Obviously I can't fix my fans vibrating which all 3 do, it just sucks that the case is so bad at isolating sounds, as they don't really make too much noise at these RPM's out of the case.
> No matter what I do, certain RPM's will resonate throughout the case, vibrations can be felt on the front panel more than anywhere else.
> The front panel doesn't cause all the noise, but a good amount of it. I should have known not to get a case where you attach moving parts to plastic, that's a horrible idea.


Why not contact Fractal and explain the problem, they might offer to send you a replacement upfront. OK that means you still have to rebuild, but if you are so horrified with it's performance why not try.

Might be worth it to test out Noctuas warranty procedure as well if the fans are resonating even outside the case a little, maybe they had a bad batch. I hear theyre pretty good with customer support


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> That, or I'm going to have to cut a hole in the top vents to put my water-block through, and mount the radiator outside the case on top.


Sorry for long time to reply. But I'd recommend front mount, so CPU received fresh air. It is usually better that way as having +2-3 C on mobo and chipset doesn't matter, if it goes from 34-->37 for example. What I mean is, if your exhaust is all right, use front mount. While air is little warmer when it goes to GPU, speed of air is so much higher that if it is few degrees warmer, it doesn't matter that much. Again, overall case exhaust.


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I didn't mention it, but between 750-800rpm it gets noisier for me as well, but nowhere near as noisy at around 1050rpm
> Those are the only two spots that I've noticed my fans will start vibrating in my hand more than anywhere else, no idea why those are the sweet spots for turbulence or whatever it is.
> The fans don't get much louder when holding them at these RPM's, they just go from not really vibrating at all to a lot of vibrating that I can feel, not so much hear.
> 
> I have a Noctua NH-U14S which is identical to my case fans besides its frame and the reason I got my case fans in the first place.
> I don't know if it creates the same vibration, I've never checked with my hand, but I've never heard it suddenly get louder at around 800rpm and 1050rpm, then again it would have more material to travel through to reach the case to make noise if it did it, vibrations would dissipate more from that if they are present from that fan.
> The HDD noise was abysmal, sightly moving the case could temporarily stop the noise but it usually came back, and caused the bottom fan filter to vibrate and be very noisy, but wasn't the only thing being noisy, whole case had vibrations throughout from the HDD...
> 
> I feel like if I RMA it, it would be a lot of work to probably accomplish nothing, not to mention not being able to use my PC and requiring me to disassemble and rebuild it...
> I have found other people with major complaints of HDD noise on the Arc Midi R2, not so much with fan noise though.
> I've found about one result of somebody else noticing Noctua NF-A14's get shaky at around 1050rpm.
> 
> Obviously I can't fix my fans vibrating which all 3 do, it just sucks that the case is so bad at isolating sounds, as they don't really make too much noise at these RPM's out of the case.
> No matter what I do, certain RPM's will resonate throughout the case, vibrations can be felt on the front panel more than anywhere else.
> The front panel doesn't cause all the noise, but a good amount of it. I should have known not to get a case where you attach moving parts to plastic, that's a horrible idea.


No matter what I did short of free suspending them, my old WD Caviar Blacks would occasionally vibrate my R4. Same thing: pushing on the case would make it go away, but it'd come back. Now that I've upgraded to larger drives that are a bit slower (Seagate 2TB NAS), not a peep.
So this isn't exclusive to your case, nor do I think it's exclusive to Fractals cases in general.


----------



## schmotty

I was going to make it an intake fan no matter where I mounted the H110, but there isnt enough clearance for the motherboard to put it on top so I had to scoot the lower HDD cage over and it fit in the front nicely.



I was able to get 2 screws in from the front to secure it.





It went together well.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> I was going to make it an intake fan no matter where I mounted the H110, but there isnt enough clearance for the motherboard to put it on top so I had to scoot the lower HDD cage over and it fit in the front nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get 2 screws in from the front to secure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It went together well.


Looks good! How are temps?


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Looks good! How are temps?


Overclocked to 4Ghz/1.425v
26C at idle, 39C full load. Room temp is 18C


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> Overclocked to 4Ghz/1.425v
> 26C at idle, 39C full load. Room temp is 18C


1,425v !?!?!?!?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> 1,425v !?!?!?!?


That's not actually that high, especially for a 45nm AMD chip. I've run my A8-3870k @ 3.5GHz 1.5v for the entire time I had it. Still works great.


----------



## schmotty

I've ran it at 1.55v before on the other MB but cooling was wasn't working on air. With the h110 I am hoping to be able to clock higher.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> I've ran it at 1.55v before on the other MB but cooling was wasn't working on air. With the h110 I am hoping to be able to clock higher.


Ohh. I'm so used to people having Intel CPUs my bad.








When I saw you type 1,425v I was jesus the guy is frying his CPU without even checking what hardware you had.


----------



## olegplanets

Got myself R5. Would it be of any benefit to put 360mm AIO radiator in the front, instead of 280mm? I take it that the front rad is set up as intake? Since in the front there's only space for 2 fans of 140mm, can there be any benefit of using 360mm? I guess in this scenario, two fans would be intake and cool down the radiator, and another fan would simply cool down the radiator with the air inside the case? Does this make any sense?


----------



## Leader

Here is my Define R4 Titanium Grey, changed blue power led to white. Also have both solid and windowed side panels. Noctua color scheme kind of "stand out" from the rest of the system


----------



## Aluc13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Here is my Define R4 Titanium Grey, changed blue power led to white. Also have both solid and windowed side panels. Noctua color scheme kind of "stand out" from the rest of the system


Nice setup, man. Looking good. The noctua's do make it standout a bit. The color scheme is totally noticeable, wish the noctua's were a different color. Odd color that they chose for it.


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aluc13*
> 
> Nice setup, man. Looking good. The noctua's do make it standout a bit. The color scheme is totally noticeable, wish the noctua's were a different color. Odd color that they chose for it.


Werd. They totally ruin the rest of my black and white theme: http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/12040_70#post_23364517


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Here is my Define R4 Titanium Grey, changed blue power led to white. Also have both solid and windowed side panels. Noctua color scheme kind of "stand out" from the rest of the system


That color... would make one consider their Redux series or other brands










You can remove the plastic thingy from drive cages. Though you don't need a drive cage at all for 2 SSDs and one HDD if you ask me


----------



## contay

Okay I threw out idea of having 2x200mm fans in front of R4. I found way to make this happen without modding case front: I will use powerful but small niobium magnets: I'll use M4 screws secured in fan frame. There will be o-ring for dampening if there isn't rubber bads already. I have to just find easy way for filtering the intake air now. I don't fancy an idea having a whole cat in my case.


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Here is my Define R4 Titanium Grey, changed blue power led to white. Also have both solid and windowed side panels. Noctua color scheme kind of "stand out" from the rest of the system


I need to change mine my power led to red. was it difficult? I actually need to get some red leds for inside the case too.


----------



## Leader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> I need to change mine my power led to red. was it difficult? I actually need to get some red leds for inside the case too.


No it was actually quite easy. Just carefylly took the original led and replaced it with white phobya led. Also the connectors that go in the mobo needed a littlebit tinkering. Only thing was that phobya led has a shorter wire than the original. You can see that in the picture going from the front I/O area to behind the mobo tray.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

I've spent maybe an hour trying to figure how to switch my red LED on the white R4 that I own, but I can't figure out any idea how I would. :/ If you could maybe post a picture guide or something it would be VERY appreciated.


----------



## Leader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> I've spent maybe an hour trying to figure how to switch my red LED on the white R4 that I own, but I can't figure out any idea how I would. :/ If you could maybe post a picture guide or something it would be VERY appreciated.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1450451/guide-fractal-design-r4-power-led-change This was the actual guide i used. Difference is that i didn't touch the original led. I just used this http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT83088

As you probably notice this is different from the two separate powerled + and powerled - connectors on the original case led.



So if you need to you can take the wires out and use R4 original powerled + and powerled - connectors



I don't know is this makes any sense, it's quite hard to explain, but you can do it. Just take it nice and easy and don't force anything.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1450451/guide-fractal-design-r4-power-led-change This was the actual guide i used. Difference is that i didn't touch the original led. I just used this http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT83088
> 
> As you probably notice this is different from the two separate powerled + and powerled - connectors on the original case led.
> 
> 
> 
> So if you need to you can take the wires out and use R4 original powerled + and powerled - connectors
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know is this makes any sense, it's quite hard to explain, but you can do it. Just take it nice and easy and don't force anything.


I might try that too, while led would look good on white R4. I guess it is very similiar operation in Node 304 too?

Also, @Leader, guess we are inside same national borders? : ) Can't imagine other reason you linked led from Jimm's


----------



## Leader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I might try that too, while led would look good on white R4. I guess it is very similiar operation in Node 304 too?
> 
> Also, @Leader, guess we are inside same national borders? : ) Can't imagine other reason you linked led from Jimm's


Nice to see fellow Finn here.







Yeah i think Node should be fairly similar. Just be careful when pulling the led out so you don't break it and leave it inside. Jimm's has been my favourite place to shop and their warranty has been excellent. Have to improve my english sometimes by writing here instead of finnish forums all the time


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> I've spent maybe an hour trying to figure how to switch my red LED on the white R4 that I own, but I can't figure out any idea how I would. :/ If you could maybe post a picture guide or something it would be VERY appreciated.


There should be pics in the gallery.

I have mine moded to *********** LED + blue HDD LED. It's fairly simple, two wires for each LED, ground and positive. It's not rocket science







If you connect it to mobo the other way around, no problem just switch it to the correct position, no harm done.
The original LED is 3mm and is pushed in plus maybe glued with hot glue a little, easy to remove. The whole actual switch though is a major PITA to remove without scratching something.
Pull the LED out, snip snip, solder on a different one, push it back, done.


----------



## gopanthersgo1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> There should be pics in the gallery.
> 
> I have mine moded to *********** LED + blue HDD LED. It's fairly simple, two wires for each LED, ground and positive. It's not rocket science
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you connect it to mobo the other way around, no problem just switch it to the correct position, no harm done.
> The original LED is 3mm and is pushed in plus maybe glued with hot glue a little, easy to remove. The whole actual switch though is a major PITA to remove without scratching something.
> Pull the LED out, snip snip, solder on a different one, push it back, done.


Oh yeah I can solder and all that, my issue is how to get the LED out in the first place, I'll go look at that guide though. But yeah it looked like the LED and switch were in the same enclosure and couldn't figure out getting the LED out.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Nice to see fellow Finn here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i think Node should be fairly similar. Just be careful when pulling the led out so you don't break it and leave it inside. Jimm's has been my favourite place to shop and their warranty has been excellent. Have to improve my english sometimes by writing here instead of finnish forums all the time


Fellow and fellow, jag är bättre folk. Okay, just kidding! But Jimm's is my favourite vendor for same reasons. And they ship for free which is awesome. I've been here longer than is MuroBBS, which I mostly use when selling and bying second hand parts.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> jag är bättre folk


haha dat swedish tho


----------



## Leader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> jag är bättre folk.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> haha dat swedish tho


I had swedish courses in 6 years when i was in comprehensive and vocational school and i can't speak or write even that much swedish


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gopanthersgo1*
> 
> Oh yeah I can solder and all that, my issue is how to get the LED out in the first place, I'll go look at that guide though. But yeah it looked like the LED and switch were in the same enclosure and couldn't figure out getting the LED out.


Remove any glue with a screwdriver, then with pliers carefully wiggle and pull the LED out by it's casing. If you can't grab the casing then by the wires.

I don't use the LEDs on mine, have them switched off in UEFI, they only blink on power on.

My pics from the gallery here:



Beware the wires on LEDs and mainly switches are easy to break if you move the cabling a lot. I used extra hotglue everywhere to secure them afterwards and not break something when assembling and disassembling the front panel.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> haha dat swedish tho


It is common joke that finlands svenska are terrible snobs









@JackCY Great info, thanks!


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> It is common joke that finlands svenska are terrible snobs


Ahh, because that sentence doesn't make sense at all.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

So I'm looking at the R5 and Midi R2 right now and is there any reason I should get the Midi R2 over the R5?


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> I have the Arc XL, the airflow is great and temps were good with one or two gpu's. The only gripe I have about this case is that the top foam dust filter is pretty restrictive causing the temps to rise, but that can be easily fixed by removing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front filter is also restrictive but just like the top filter you can remove it and just replace it with a couple of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999257&cm_re=fan_filter-_-11-999-257-_-Product


i have the arc xl as well, and i'm seeing a fair bit of restriction from the foam filters on both the top and the front. (custom loop with top and front 280mm radiators.) once i get some hard measurements on cooling with and without filters i'm going to do something exactly like this with demciflex filters.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> So I'm looking at the R5 and Midi R2 right now and is there any reason I should get the Midi R2 over the R5?


The only thing I can think of is that it's cheaper and got better airflow than R5.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that it's cheaper and got better airflow than R5.


Of course at the price of more sound I'm guessing. I don't know the R4 looks REALLY damn plain to me. The Midi R2 looks better in my eyes but I really want my computer to be silent.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Of course at the price of more sound I'm guessing. I don't know the R4 looks REALLY damn plain to me. The Midi R2 looks better in my eyes but I really want my computer to be silent.


To be honest it's not worth getting the R5 over the R4. So if you want a silence case I'd go for the R4. You wont care about how your case looks anyway after 2 weeks.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Of course at the price of more sound I'm guessing. I don't know the R4 looks REALLY damn plain to me. The Midi R2 looks better in my eyes but I really want my computer to be silent.


I switched from an R4 to an Enthoo Primo and the noise increase is big. Yeah the R4 is great if you want quiet. I might switch back.

Air cooled Temps were also better with R4


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wezzor*
> 
> To be honest it's not worth getting the R5 over the R4. So if you want a silence case I'd go for the R4. You wont care about how your case looks anyway after 2 weeks.


It's only $10 more right now for me. Since I've said so much money with sales, I don't mind splurging


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> It's only $10 more right now for me. Since I've said so much money with sales, I don't mind splurging


Then go for the R5.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Just went ahead and purchased it! It's the same price everywhere but Newegg seems to have the cheapest shipping cost.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Just went ahead and purchased it! It's the same price everywhere but Newegg seems to have the cheapest shipping cost.


Nice!
You won't be disappointed.


----------



## JackCY

Dremel time









FD Define R4, cut out a bigger hole on the bottom of the plastic front panel, bottom front fan has less intake resistance. It really likes to suck air that way so I've enlarged the handle hole a bit more. Didn't go overboard but you could if you want to.


----------



## GeneO

It looks like a robot face.


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> It looks like a robot face.


Lol, robot computer is excited to perform your calculations.


----------



## SKRiPTT

Here is my Fractal Define R4 Arctic White









*All photos->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157650372225036/

Intel Xeon E3-1231 v3 + Cryorig R1 Universal
MSI H97 Gaming 3
Kingston HyperX 8GB 1866Mhz DDR3
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 + Samsung 840 Evo 250GB
Seasonic S12II-620
Fractal Define R4









What do you think guys?


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKRiPTT*
> 
> What do you think guys?


eh, it's okay for an air cooled build, i guess.









ok, ok, i really like it. super clean, enough black that the white isn't overwhelming, and the cryorig spectrum logo in the middle is just perfect.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKRiPTT*
> 
> Here is my Fractal Define R4 Arctic White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *All photos->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157650372225036/
> 
> Intel Xeon E3-1231 v3 + Cryorig R1 Universal
> MSI H97 Gaming 3
> Kingston HyperX 8GB 1866Mhz DDR3
> Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 + Samsung 840 Evo 250GB
> Seasonic S12II-620
> Fractal Define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think guys?


Thats a beauty mate nice one! Little bit jel not afraid to admit







ive seen many uglier water cooled rigs!


----------



## Aluc13

That's awesome looking. Very well done.


----------



## bigsobes87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKRiPTT*
> 
> Here is my Fractal Define R4 Arctic White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *All photos->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157650372225036/
> 
> Intel Xeon E3-1231 v3 + Cryorig R1 Universal
> MSI H97 Gaming 3
> Kingston HyperX 8GB 1866Mhz DDR3
> Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 + Samsung 840 Evo 250GB
> Seasonic S12II-620
> Fractal Define R4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think guys?


That looks awesome


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKRiPTT*
> 
> Here is my Fractal Define R4 Arctic White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *All photos->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157650372225036/
> 
> Intel Xeon E3-1231 v3 + Cryorig R1 Universal
> MSI H97 Gaming 3
> Kingston HyperX 8GB 1866Mhz DDR3
> Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 + Samsung 840 Evo 250GB
> Seasonic S12II-620
> Fractal Define R4
> 
> What do you think guys?


... I have to do somethig for my own White R4. Now. Very beautiful and clean. Also I love your Choice on cpu







I have same Xeon on my Node and it gives bang for buck. What's that graphics card?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SKRiPTT*
> 
> Here is my Fractal Define R4 Arctic White
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *All photos->* https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157650372225036/
> What do you think guys?


I think that all the photographic equipment used cost more than the rig.


----------



## rjajmr0221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> i have the arc xl as well, and i'm seeing a fair bit of restriction from the foam filters on both the top and the front. (custom loop with top and front 280mm radiators.) once i get some hard measurements on cooling with and without filters i'm going to do something exactly like this with demciflex filters.


Can i ask what rads you use? Thinking about getting into wc and can't find much info on what all fits in the roof. thanks!


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjajmr0221*
> 
> Can i ask what rads you use? Thinking about getting into wc and can't find much info on what all fits in the roof. thanks!


alphacool st30 280mm on the top plus 25mm thick fans in pull, and ut60 280mm in front with 25mm fans in push/pull. the front rad requires modifications to fit (drilling out the case screw holes and cutting out the bottom of the drive cage). the top rad fits as is. the fractal design site spells it out pretty accurately: on top, you can use a thick 240mm rad and/or push/pull fans because there are offset mounting points for the 240mm rad; you can use a 280mm rad up to ~35mm plus 25mm of fan thickness with no issues, maybe more depending on mobo clearance; you can use a 360mm rad with the same height issues as the 280mm rad but you can't put anything in the top drive bay. in the front, a 240mm will fit fine, but a 280mm requires modding.



i'm seeing a BIG difference in loop temps with and without the front grille in place. i think this is partly due to restriction and partly because putting the grille in place creates enough negative pressure in that area to suck hot air from inside the case to the front of the fans because there are some pretty big open passages in there. i'm going to create a shroud of some sort to prevent this hot air leakage and see how far that gets me. after that, i might have to try replacing the foam with something less restrictive. i didn't realize this was going to turn into one of the biggest issues of the whole build!


----------



## rjajmr0221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> alphacool st30 280mm on the top plus 25mm thick fans in pull, and ut60 280mm in front with 25mm fans in push/pull. the front rad requires modifications to fit (drilling out the case screw holes and cutting out the bottom of the drive cage). the top rad fits as is. the fractal design site spells it out pretty accurately: on top, you can use a thick 240mm rad and/or push/pull fans because there are offset mounting points for the 240mm rad; you can use a 280mm rad up to ~35mm plus 25mm of fan thickness with no issues, maybe more depending on mobo clearance; you can use a 360mm rad with the same height issues as the 280mm rad but you can't put anything in the top drive bay. in the front, a 240mm will fit fine, but a 280mm requires modding.
> 
> 
> 
> i'm seeing a BIG difference in loop temps with and without the front grille in place. i think this is partly due to restriction and partly because putting the grille in place creates enough negative pressure in that area to suck hot air from inside the case to the front of the fans because there are some pretty big open passages in there. i'm going to create a shroud of some sort to prevent this hot air leakage and see how far that gets me. after that, i might have to try replacing the foam with something less restrictive. i didn't realize this was going to turn into one of the biggest issues of the whole build!


Awesome, thanks for the clarification. I'm positive on a ut60 240mm for the front and have been tossing back and fourth either a 360 st30 or another 240 ut60 . Cooling cpu and eventually gpu when i upgrade it. looking at 3xx or Nvidia counterpart. Thanks again


----------



## Leader

Found old cable extensions and decided to tidy up cables just a bit. Noctuas still look out of place. Excellent fans, but man they are eyesore











Windowed panel which i ordered was tinted instead of clear which was a very positive surprise, i haven't seen those for sale separately. I thought tinted windows come only with R4 Blackout cases.


----------



## lurker2501

Don't mind me. Just throwing some random parts together.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hunched*
> 
> I didn't mention it, but between 750-800rpm it gets noisier for me as well, but nowhere near as noisy at around 1050rpm
> Those are the only two spots that I've noticed my fans will start vibrating in my hand more than anywhere else, no idea why those are the sweet spots for turbulence or whatever it is.
> The fans don't get much louder when holding them at these RPM's, they just go from not really vibrating at all to a lot of vibrating that I can feel, not so much hear.
> 
> I have a Noctua NH-U14S which is identical to my case fans besides its frame and the reason I got my case fans in the first place.
> I don't know if it creates the same vibration, I've never checked with my hand, but I've never heard it suddenly get louder at around 800rpm and 1050rpm, then again it would have more material to travel through to reach the case to make noise if it did it, vibrations would dissipate more from that if they are present from that fan.
> The HDD noise was abysmal, sightly moving the case could temporarily stop the noise but it usually came back, and caused the bottom fan filter to vibrate and be very noisy, but wasn't the only thing being noisy, whole case had vibrations throughout from the HDD...
> 
> I feel like if I RMA it, it would be a lot of work to probably accomplish nothing, not to mention not being able to use my PC and requiring me to disassemble and rebuild it...
> I have found other people with major complaints of HDD noise on the Arc Midi R2, not so much with fan noise though.
> I've found about one result of somebody else noticing Noctua NF-A14's get shaky at around 1050rpm.
> 
> Obviously I can't fix my fans vibrating which all 3 do, it just sucks that the case is so bad at isolating sounds, as they don't really make too much noise at these RPM's out of the case.
> No matter what I do, certain RPM's will resonate throughout the case, vibrations can be felt on the front panel more than anywhere else.
> The front panel doesn't cause all the noise, but a good amount of it. I should have known not to get a case where you attach moving parts to plastic, that's a horrible idea.


Did you try apply tape to the edges of the bottom filter? Worked for me. It filled the gap keeping locked in tight. Also, try move your hard drive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> I was going to make it an intake fan no matter where I mounted the H110, but there isnt enough clearance for the motherboard to put it on top so I had to scoot the lower HDD cage over and it fit in the front nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to get 2 screws in from the front to secure it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It went together well.


Nice. The kraken x61 I installed fit in my r4 also. I had to take out the top hard drive cage lock thing to make it fit though. Lol she's big!

If your looking for room still..

I have a hard drive and 120mm intake fan on the bottom in between the rad and PSU which still leaves me room in the top DVD drive bays which only hold my cathode power boxes. SSD is stuck on the back panel door.

It looks sharp and I still have room.


----------



## beans444

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Nice to see fellow Finn here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i think Node should be fairly similar. Just be careful when pulling the led out so you don't break it and leave it inside. Jimm's has been my favourite place to shop and their warranty has been excellent. Have to improve my english sometimes by writing here instead of finnish forums all the time


Nice LED replacement. I used to pull LEDs from old vcr's and DVD players and wire them up using a transistor and recycled wire, but this is nice too.

Maybe there's a reason why we're all attracted to this case eh. Take it from a Canadian Finn lol.. Well my grandmother was from Finland.


----------



## beans444

Double post? Bugs.. Disregard post


----------



## bigsobes87

Does anyone know the measurements of the thumb screws used to secure the side panels on the Arc Midi R2? I've lost a couple and can't seem to find them and was wondering if I could just buy them from a local hardware store or get replacements from Fractal as a last resort.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigsobes87*
> 
> Does anyone know the measurements of the thumb screws used to secure the side panels on the Arc Midi R2? I've lost a couple and can't seem to find them and was wondering if I could just buy them from a local hardware store or get replacements from Fractal as a last resort.


I think they're 6/32 thread and about 5mm in length but they have a pointed end. Send Fractal Design an email and see if they can send you some spares.


----------



## JackCY

In the past and probably today as well I know you could buy a custom fancy screws for that that were large and easy to use. No idea about the thread but it's a steep one I think.
I bet you could use any other thumb screw from the case like the ones used for PCI-E could be the same thread wise. The heads are slightly different.


----------



## grimmjpw660

PART_1422946376824_20150202_175348.jpg 901k .jpg file


----------



## Kitarist

Does anyone else think that R4 still looks better than R5 case?


----------



## REDEFINE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kitarist*
> 
> Does anyone else think that R4 still looks better than R5 case?


I do, I don't like the new moduvents on top of the r5. I also like the drive cage on the r4 more.


----------



## JackCY

For equal price I would take the R5. But I have a moded R4 with all I need, it just takes time to mod it where as on R5 some things are already there.
I'm more worried with how the R5 might look with the sinked in fan grills when fans are installed, must be weird a little and would be better if they provided a snap on air filter that would make it flush when fans are installed. So you would replace the plastic covers, they call fancily moduvents, with air filters.

I would still take a dremel and cut those stupid grills out anyway, bottom and rear for sure since I don't use the other fan positions.

The covers on R5 were a risky move design wise, they seem flimsy and they probably are.


----------



## Wirerat

I am moving my cable box sig rig into a Fractal R5.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Its going to have a 360mm ek coolstream PE, Ek 140mm coolstream XTC rads, ek supreme block and bitspower gtx 970 ACX full water block.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I am moving my cable box sig rig into a Fractal R5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its going to have a 360mm ek coolstream PE, Ek 140mm coolstream XTC rads, ek supreme block and bitspower gtx 970 ACX full water block.


Post some more pics when you done







Also rebuilding my Fractal R4 and putting a custom loop in it. One thing is for sure with the R4 its not very watercooling friendly, could only have 4 screws on the front 240mm rad, and the top 240mm rad also is a very tight fit and its pushed against my rear fan.¨

So hopefully the watercooling support is improved with the R5.


----------



## Aussiejuggalo

I got a really really really dumb question, can an SSI EEB motherboard like dual 2011 server boards fit in an R4?, I know the screw holes wouldnt line up but does the rear IO? and more importantly would it fit without hitting the roof and or HDD cages?

Thanks


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> Post some more pics when you done





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Still have to add the Led lights and sleeve the case wiring.

Below is valley run and gpu screenie for temps


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








]
Quote:


> Also rebuilding my Fractal R4 and putting a custom loop in it. One thing is for sure with the R4 its not very watercooling friendly, could only have 4 screws on the front 240mm rad, and the top 240mm rad also is a very tight fit and its pushed against my rear fan.¨
> 
> So hopefully the watercooling support is improved with the R5.


Well the R5 has its caveats as well. When you use a 360mm rad in the top there is no air filter and I could only get 6 screws (two per fan) to line up.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/f0Ok8tIHj

https://imageshack.com/i/idIfogYTj

https://imageshack.com/i/idjGX1Lej

https://imageshack.com/i/pbDvBrH6j

Switching over to the R5, these are the last bits i needed.

Does anyone know how much it would cost to buy the windowed side panel in white from fractal?.

For anyone wanting to put a rad in the roof, you need to unscrew the cable hiding bit at the top if its over 280mm i think, i'm surprised the reviews never mentioned this.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Man, finding a black Define R4/Midi R2 windowed side panel in the UK or anywhere in the world for that matter is really hard. Been waiting for Fractal shop or Scan to have them in stock for months.


----------



## Wirerat

The r5 got small fast when i started installing the tubing. It took some planning. A large res would be difficult with two big rads depending on gpu length.

Its all done for now though










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Man, finding a black Define R4/Midi R2 windowed side panel in the UK or anywhere in the world for that matter is really hard. Been waiting for Fractal shop or Scan to have them in stock for months.


I may have one that you can have. I'll look tomorrow for you.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I may have one that you can have. I'll look tomorrow for you.


Well, now, that was not expected. That is very kind of you to offer, mate! It could be a pain to ship, though.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Well, now, that was not expected. That is very kind of you to offer, mate! It could be a pain to ship, though.


I'll see if I have it and see if I can get a quote for shipping. I think I still have the original box it came in.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> I'll see if I have it and see if I can get a quote for shipping. I think I still have the original box it came in.


Again, thank you.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Again, thank you.


No worries. Just don't get your hopes up. It should be in my shed but my wife has cleaned it out so hopefully she hasn't binned it.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Man, finding a black Define R4/Midi R2 windowed side panel in the UK or anywhere in the world for that matter is really hard. Been waiting for Fractal shop or Scan to have them in stock for months.


Also, there was someone in my town selling one. If @VulgarDisplay88 can't find his, let me know I might be able to help.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Also, there was someone in my town selling one. If @VulgarDisplay88 can't find his, let me know I might be able to help.


It didn't work out, no. Vulgar couldn't find it in his shed so it's probably been sent to the skip or somewhere else.

If you do know of anyone selling a window, it would be great, but it's no worries if it doesn't work out. I'm sure they'll eventually come back in stock. Fractal didn't say they were being discontinued when I asked them, they just directed me to their online shop.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> It didn't work out, no. Vulgar couldn't find it in his shed so it's probably been sent to the skip or somewhere else.
> 
> If you do know of anyone selling a window, it would be great, but it's no worries if it doesn't work out. I'm sure they'll eventually come back in stock. Fractal didn't say they were being discontinued when I asked them, they just directed me to their online shop.


Just checked and it was already sold, sorry. But it clearly isn't out of production as it is mentioned available from manufacturer if it isn't in stock here in Finland.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Just checked and it was already sold, sorry. But it clearly isn't out of production as it is mentioned available from manufacturer if it isn't in stock here in Finland.


Yeah, it's still listed on Fractal's website and they have been updating it regularly, so I still think it's for sale. It's just taking a while. It's OK, though. Thanks for checking!


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/idjGX1Lej


Where did you get these white versions? I've only seen the black ones.


----------



## khemist

From performancepcs.


----------



## Macross

Is the White R5 window version available anywhere for retail price. Have not been able to find it the last week or so anywhere.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macross*
> 
> Is the White R5 window version available anywhere for retail price. Have not been able to find it the last week or so anywhere.


http://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-define-r5-white-mid-tower-atx-matx-mini-itx-computer-chassis-with-window-usb-30-plus-

Due in stock tomorrow.


----------



## Emulator

Hey guys, just built a new rig using the R5, I put it in the wrong place, but for now check it out here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1541322/happy-with-my-r5-specs-and-pics-below


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Recommendations for the best case fans to use as intake in the front and exhaust in the back/top in a Define R5?


----------



## andyv

Are you looking for silence or performance?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Recommendations for the best case fans to use as intake in the front and exhaust in the back/top in a Define R5?


Stock fans are fine as exhaust.

For intake look into Phanteks fans. 140sp are 3 pin, xp and mp models are pwm. Great performeRs. Quiet. cheap cpmpared to equivalent fans like noctua and noiseblocker. They're black and white also perfect for fractal cases.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> Are you looking for silence or performance?


Something in between but otherwise silence.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Stock fans are fine as exhaust.
> 
> For intake look into Phanteks fans. 140sp are 3 pin, xp and mp models are pwm. Great performeRs. Quiet. cheap cpmpared to equivalent fans like noctua and noiseblocker. They're black and white also perfect for fractal cases.


I'm reading that the Phanteks are a bit noisy.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Something in between but otherwise silence.
> I'm reading that the Phanteks are a bit noisy.


I don't know where you read that but that's totally wrong. Quieter than my noctua a14 and p14s


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I don't know where you read that but that's totally wrong. Quieter than my noctua a14 and p14s


I was reading some negative reviews on the product pages on different websites. Probably wasn't the best source of info. Thanks for your help.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> I was reading some negative reviews on the product pages on different websites. Probably wasn't the best source of info. Thanks for your help.


Seriously try them out though, you cannot do better case fan wise if noise is at all an issue, and a lot of folks use them on radiators too. (I plan to when my aphacools arrive.) SPCR, which I consider the authority on fans, says of the older HP model in a roundup against the then-new Noctua lineup (A14 and A15) and some XIgmateks,
Quote:


> Aside from our reference NF-P14 FLX, the PH-F140HP/TS had the best acoustics of the fans in this roundup, having a much cleaner profile than the latest offerings from Noctua... The Phanteks produced excellent temperatures down to 700 RPM and only a very modest drop-off when moving from 700 to 550 RPM, earning it the best cooling result at this RPM of any fan we've tested... The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model.


http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page1.html

I'm also a huge fan of Thermalright's TY line but those have odd shapes and 120mm mounting holes, they don't work as intakes in the R5 without modding.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/f0hI4RyEj

https://imageshack.com/i/p9JOKxVNj

I posted this pic in another thread, although the tube from rad to res looks perfect it's really silly tight routing the rest of the ports.. i think i might struggle to keep it looking clean.

The top rad 360mm rad overhangs the 240mm rad a fair bit, not sure what fittings to use to keep it looking smart.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/f0hI4RyEj
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/p9JOKxVNj
> 
> 
> 
> I posted this pic in another thread, although the tube from rad to res looks perfect it's really silly tight routing the rest of the ports.. i think i might struggle to keep it looking clean.
> 
> The top rad 360mm rad overhangs the 240mm rad a fair bit, not sure what fittings to use to keep it looking smart.


I ended up spinning my 360 rad so the fittings are at the back of the case instead of right over my 140mm rad.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Recommendations for the best case fans to use as intake in the front and exhaust in the back/top in a Define R5?


I can recommend Akasa Apache Black 140. They are cheaper than Noctuas, push equal amount of air with higher pressure and quieter. As their namu suggest, they come in nice all black. Akasa also has "Viper" fans, which are bit more expensive but have higher airflow with almost no higher voice. I don't have experience from Vipers, but I have several Apaches on my two rigs currently.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I'm also a huge fan of Thermalright's TY line but those have odd shapes and 120mm mounting holes, they don't work as intakes in the R5 without modding.


I love TY-series. I replaced NH-D14 fans with TY-147, cooler went completely silent and fans won't sound windturbine even when CPU is under full load while still moving enough air trough the heatsink.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I ended up spinning my 360 rad so the fittings are at the back of the case instead of right over my 140mm rad.


Ive got a bunch of fittings i'm going to delve into and i think i can sort it.

It might not be pretty, but i will sort it.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Ive got a bunch of fittings i'm going to delve into and i think i can sort it.
> 
> It might not be pretty, but i will sort it.


Im sure its going to look nice. Post more pics.


----------



## khemist

I dont think it will look nice tbh, it will look forced but i need to get it sorted.

I've got a week off from work now so i have to get it sorted.

If anyone has any ideas let me know.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I dont think it will look nice tbh, it will look forced but i need to get it sorted.
> 
> I've got a week off from work now so i have to get it sorted.


is there a reason why you dont want to turn the 360mm around ? I mean your going to run tubing to the cpu anyway.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Also did u consider the 240 up top and 360 in front? The 240mm could even go into the bottum if the res still fits.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Recommendations for the best case fans to use as intake in the front and exhaust in the back/top in a Define R5?


Good fans. http://www.performance-pcs.com/parvum-systems-f1-0-performance-pressure-optimised-fan-black.html#

Kind of pricey though. They are actually Alpenföhn fans so if you are in the UK by chance, they are a little bit cheaper while still being the same fan. Alpenföhns have more color options than black/white also.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-021-AL


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

New Fractal Fans

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/new-fans-from-fractal-design


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> New Fractal Fans
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/new-fans-from-fractal-design


They seem to be good, low priced solution. Too bad new series wasn't pwm :/


----------



## leemk

Hi , just about to buy the R5 but wanted to know what the gap is between the optical drive bays and the front door .
Got a Lamptron FC5 V2 fan controller and the dials are 10mm in length so was wondering if the door would still shut.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leemk*
> 
> Hi , just about to buy the R5 but wanted to know what the gap is between the optical drive bays and the front door .
> Got a Lamptron FC5 V2 fan controller and the dials are 10mm in length so was wondering if the door would still shut.


There is definitely not enough space for the dials. There's maybe 1mm of space between the bays and the foam on the doors.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leemk*
> 
> Hi , just about to buy the R5 but wanted to know what the gap is between the optical drive bays and the front door .
> Got a Lamptron FC5 V2 fan controller and the dials are 10mm in length so was wondering if the door would still shut.


I agree with @LolCakeLazors, it's same with R4. You have to with touchscreen controller.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leemk*
> 
> Hi , just about to buy the R5 but wanted to know what the gap is between the optical drive bays and the front door .
> Got a Lamptron FC5 V2 fan controller and the dials are 10mm in length so was wondering if the door would still shut.


I had the R4 and the FC5 V2. Had to move the fan controller back so the knobs sat flush with the optical Bay cover.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> I agree with @LolCakeLazors, it's same with R4. You have to with touchscreen controller.


Can't you just sink it into the case? Simple to do.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Can't you just sink it into the case? Simple to do.


Yeah you could... it would just bother me a lot because of my OCD


----------



## Coryllus

Luker here








I just bought a Mini R2 and so I am planning to do a 360Rad in the top and a 240 Rad in the front, which means i had to take out all the cages. Now the problem is where I should put my 3.5" Drive! Does anyone have a creative Solution for this?
I mean i could just lay it on the bottom, but that is not really slick









Specs so far:

Fractal Design Arc Mini R2
ASRock Fatal1ty X99M Killer
FRACTAL DESIGN Newton R3, 800 Watt
Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-2800 16GB (4x4GB) CL16
Intel Core i7 5820K (LGA 2011-v3, 3.30GHz, Unlocked)
SAMSUNG XP941 SSD M.2 SATA, 256GB
Seagate Desktop SSHD - 4 TB

For GPU, I'll probabely go with an EVGA GTX 970 FTW+ ACX 2.0+ or
ZOTAC GTX 970 AMP! Extreme Core Edition but I have to wait for a Waterblock there.


----------



## xaeryan

There was a reference to a site where you can buy black drive sleds and expansion covers for the R4... I can no longer find it. Can someone point me where I can buy these?


----------



## GeneO

And they have 4 black drive sleds in stock now. I just spray painted mine black









http://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=Replacement+Parts


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> And they have 4 black drive sleds in stock now. I just spray painted mine black
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=Replacement+Parts


But no expansion slot covers?









I'd spray paint mine, but I'm fickle - I see wanting to go back to white in the future. Plasti dip would work and is easily reversible, but for the cost and effort involved I'd just as soon buy them black and have the ability to swap.


----------



## GeneO

I figured I could always find white ones








I think plasti-dip would come off of the tray rails from sliding it in.
Plasti-dip is too thick for the expansion slot covers.


----------



## leemk

Thanks for the replies , just realized the R5 has a basic 3 fan 3 speed controller .
If i was to use 6 fans can i run a y splitter off each channel , would the single molex going into the controller handle 6 fans.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leemk*
> 
> Thanks for the replies , just realized the R5 has a basic 3 fan 3 speed controller .
> If i was to use 6 fans can i run a y splitter off each channel , would the single molex going into the controller handle 6 fans.


It might, maybe. I've used four fans there. Fan control has maxinum total wattage 15W but Fractal Design recommends one fan in each header.


----------



## Temuka

Hello everyone! I want to buy this case,althought it was released 3 years ago,but I think there's nothing better in quiet solution for full towers in 150$ range. (If you disagree,please post your ideas/solutions)

So,I'm interested in your short reviews guys who have this case. I'm not going into water cooling,just need something really quiet and full tower.

Is it really that silent? Did anything changed through you bought it? (Sound changed,something broke,etc...)

Thanks in advance !!!

P.S Of course I wanted to buy something new from 2015,but as I mentioned before there is no better solution in this price range......


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> It might, maybe. I've used four fans there. Fan control has maxinum total wattage 15W but Fractal Design recommends one fan in each header.


I've run two Fractal 140mm fans off each header. Nothing caught fire.


----------



## EdTheHead

Hey all,

Waiting for the R5 in White to come in stock somewhere so I can join the club with my rig waiting to be in a case!


----------



## jopemoro

Hi, all. New member here...

I really like the Fractal Design cases for a new build, but I have a question that yuou guys mey be ale to answer.

I am building around a Msi X99S Gaming 9 ACK biard, which is EATX.

Specifically, I like the Define R5, and although it is an ATX case, a friend has used it to build with an Asus Rampage Extreme V, which is slightly bigger than the Msi I like.

Has anyone used a R5 with that Msi board? Will the R5 fit 'bigger than ATX' mobos? Any way to know exactly the maximum size of mobo that will fit in the R5?

(The alternative is an XL R2, but it's waaay too big for my needs, and not sure if as silent as the R5.)

Thanks in advance to all!


----------



## Kyashan

Hello guys I have a fractal design arc xl, is compatible with a radiator Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm or XSPC RX240 Dual Fan Radiator V3 + fans push/pull? there is a risk of conflict exists with other components such as the motherboard or the system memory? I have to install the radiator on the top of the case and use RAM Module with high profile








Thank you








Sorry for my bad english


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kyashan*
> 
> Hello guys I have a fractal design arc xl, is compatible with a radiator Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm or XSPC RX240 Dual Fan Radiator V3 + fans push/pull? there is a risk of conflict exists with other components such as the motherboard or the system memory? I have to install the radiator on the top of the case and use RAM Module with high profile


assuming you're talking about putting that radiator on the top, not the front. as long as you use the offset mounting points for the 240, you should have a lot of clearance between the radiator and the motherboard.

you can also mount a thick 240 + push/pull in the front of the case if you move the drive cage to the furthest back mounting point.


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> I figured I could always find white ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think plasti-dip would come off of the tray rails from sliding it in.
> Plasti-dip is too thick for the expansion slot covers.


Good thinking, but now I'm having trouble even finding white ones!


----------



## Kyashan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> assuming you're talking about putting that radiator on the top, not the front. as long as you use the offset mounting points for the 240, you should have a lot of clearance between the radiator and the motherboard.
> 
> you can also mount a thick 240 + push/pull in the front of the case if you move the drive cage to the furthest back mounting point.


Thank you for this good notice


----------



## Anateus

Guys, help me please! I own Arc Midi r2 and need some advice on how to mount front radiator in push config.
I had it tied to the chasis (not kidding) for the last 6 months and I now need to screw it tight.
The problem is front screw holes are slightly too small and XSPC rad screws dont fit inside - I would need 2-3mm longer screws.
From XSPC site (RX240): Supplied 30mm and 6mm 6-32 UNC screws. Both are too short to install the radiator in front.
What are my options?

@Edit:
The screws: http://images.xs-pc.com/product_images/large/17/33644_01.jpg
The heads are too big for the holes in case. And i cannot find any other 6/32 30mm head type :/
Any chances I might use non 6/32 screws with those rads?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Guys, help me please! I own Arc Midi r2 and need some advice on how to mount front radiator in push config.
> I had it tied to the chasis (not kidding) for the last 6 months and I now need to screw it tight.
> The problem is front screw holes are slightly too small and XSPC rad screws dont fit inside - I would need 2-3mm longer screws.
> From XSPC site (RX240): Supplied 30mm and 6mm 6-32 UNC screws. Both are too short to install the radiator in front.
> What are my options?
> 
> @Edit:
> The screws: http://images.xs-pc.com/product_images/large/17/33644_01.jpg
> The heads are too big for the holes in case. And i cannot find any other 6/32 30mm head type :/
> Any chances I might use non 6/32 screws with those rads?


What holes in the case are actually too small? HDD screws have same thread as rad screws. I used HDD screws with my rad when I had one. I just used lathe to cut the head little smaller but you shouldn't worry about that. So are you mounting rad on the top?


----------



## Anateus

I mounted the rad on top with 6mm screws. Its just the front rad I have problems with, but I ordered 31,8mm screws - maybe they will work. Currently its tied to the chasis


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Guys, help me please! I own Arc Midi r2 and need some advice on how to mount front radiator in push config.
> I had it tied to the chasis (not kidding) for the last 6 months and I now need to screw it tight.
> The problem is front screw holes are slightly too small and XSPC rad screws dont fit inside - I would need 2-3mm longer screws.
> From XSPC site (RX240): Supplied 30mm and 6mm 6-32 UNC screws. Both are too short to install the radiator in front.
> What are my options?
> 
> @Edit:
> The screws: http://images.xs-pc.com/product_images/large/17/33644_01.jpg
> The heads are too big for the holes in case. And i cannot find any other 6/32 30mm head type :/
> Any chances I might use non 6/32 screws with those rads?


If you have a Lowes or home Depot they sell longer screws. Also using shims might help if the screws are to long. If the screw holes are not big enough grab a drill and a drill bit that fits the purpose.


----------



## Paranoia

I'm already part of the club but I wanted to show off my updated system...I finally decided to upgrade after my old PC died

Here is the list of upgraded parts

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 --> I7 4790k
Evga 680i --> Asus Z97 Pro (wifi-ac)
4gb Corsair ddr2 800mhz ram --> 8gb HyperX Fury 1866mhz
500gb HDD --> 250gb Samsung 840 Evo ssd
Antec Khuler h20 620 --> Cryorig H7
Pc Power and Cooling 600w --> Evga SuperNova 750g2 (hopefully enough for future sli)


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> is there a reason why you dont want to turn the 360mm around ? I mean your going to run tubing to the cpu anyway.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also did u consider the 240 up top and 360 in front? The 240mm could even go into the bottum if the res still fits.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> is there a reason why you dont want to turn the 360mm around ? I mean your going to run tubing to the cpu anyway.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also did u consider the 240 up top and 360 in front? The 240mm could even go into the bottum if the res still fits.


I thought it would look neater having the rad ports all at one side, tried the 240 rad in the top but i just liked the look of this better this way.

https://imageshack.com/i/idKcNRLLj

https://imageshack.com/i/id1i1AlCj

I've decided on this, loop will go pump>gpu>cpu>240>360>pump inlet.

I'm not using Yellow tubing i was just testing how it looked, only waiting on one thing now, a Bitspower aquapipe for inside the res then i've got everything.


----------



## K4IKEN

That yellow tubing looks kinda dope lowkey though.. I wouldn't even be mad if that was the color you went with and some oil black coolant.


----------



## khemist

I've used the Yellow before in my FT02 build and it does look sweet but not this time since i'm using the Green m5 sniper board.


----------



## kokobooster

Hi guys.

Can h105 fit in Fractal Design r4 + asrockz97 extreme4?

TIA!


----------



## grimmjpw660

Anyone know what kind of dust filter I can throw on top of a Define R5 with only 2 moduvents removed?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmjpw660*
> 
> Anyone know what kind of dust filter I can throw on top of a Define R5 with only 2 moduvents removed?


I have all three removed for a 360mm rad. I used 3 of these. They only cover a 120mm fan not the entire area but keeps the dust down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006RD0U54/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Q6V6ub01F34ZY

Would be nice if fractal atleast offered a magnetic dust cover for the entire area.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmjpw660*
> 
> Anyone know what kind of dust filter I can throw on top of a Define R5 with only 2 moduvents removed?


I have a 280mm and use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARB5E8A


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> I have a 280mm and use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARB5E8A


what did you use to blank off the opening around the fans or rad?

Also. I installed my filters external. They dnt look as nice but will be much easier to clean.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> what did you use to blank off the opening around the fans or rad?
> 
> Also. I installed my filters external. They dnt look as nice but will be much easier to clean.


AcoustiPack Extra 7mm foam I bought from FrozenCPU. Yeah, I wanted to install them externally but didn't like the look. A couple squirts of the air can and it's good and clean.


----------



## incog

it always kind of hurts my soul to see beautiful cases on the floor. i have a core 1000, windowless. i still put it on my desk


----------



## tateep

It makes my floor look more beautiful


----------



## reset1101

Hi all,

Would you see a Fractal R5 too small for a 4790k + 2 970 g1 gaming? Fan setup would be the 2 fans that come with the case in the front as intake and another one in the back as exhaust.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## mauley

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Would you see a Fractal R5 too small for a 4790k + 2 970 g1 gaming? Fan setup would be the 2 fans that come with the case in the front as intake and another one in the back as exhaust.
> 
> Thanks a lot.


You will have plenty of room in the R5 for your components.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauley*
> 
> You will have plenty of room in the R5 for your components.


for air cooled it. The R5 wont run out of space until you start stuffing multiple radiators in it for a custom loop.

Even then it can hold a lot of wc gear for a mid size.


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mauley*
> 
> You will have plenty of room in the R5 for your components.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> for air cooled it. The R5 wont run out of space until you start stuffing multiple radiators in it for a custom loop.
> 
> Even then it can hold a lot of wc gear for a mid size.


Thanks for your advice. I know that those components fit, I was wondering if the case may be too small to handle the amount of heat those components can produce, specially as the case fans are going to spin at low rpms.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Thanks for your advice. I know that those components fit, I was wondering if the case may be too small to handle the amount of heat those components can produce, specially as the case fans are going to spin at low rpms.


the r5 is very wide for a mid case. Those gpus you mention run very cool already.

It will have plenty of air flow for those gpu to work fine on AIr.

I will be suprised if your top card is ever above 75c.

The provided 140mm case fans are not audible at all at full tilt. So those can run at 1,000rpm without any issue.

You should be able to get your desired results keeping fans around 800-1200rpm. Most fans are very quiet in that range.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> Thanks for your advice. I know that those components fit, I was wondering if the case may be too small to handle the amount of heat those components can produce, specially as the case fans are going to spin at low rpms.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the r5 is very wide for a mid case. Those gpus you mention run very cool already.
> 
> It will have plenty of air flow for those gpu to work fine on AIr.
> 
> I will be suprised if your top card is ever above 75c.
> 
> The provided 140mm case fans are not audible at all at full tilt. So those can run at 1,000rpm without any issue.
> 
> You should be able to get your desired results keeping fans around 800-1200rpm. Most fans are very quiet in that range.


I'm not so sure.. Not trying to pick a fight here and I am a bit of a freak for cooling my kit as much as possible, but I don't rate the included Fractal fans at all, I've used about 10 models of 140 and 120mm fans and they're about the worst I've used for actual cooling, they pull next to zero air into a case through a filter, and I believe R5 is even more restrictive on intakes then the Arc Midi R2 I'm using currently. Not to bad as an exhaust I suppose.

I know I'm not running SLI and that 970's run cooler then my 780 ACX (MSI gaming 970 is 10c cooler according to TPU testing then my 780 ACX SC if you believe their testing), but even so you are still going to be dumping a lot more heat into the case then I am that is all going to get pulled through your air HSF. And to keep those 970's cool you may have to set up a custom fan profile on the cards which is going to completely negate the benefit of having only 2 silent fans in the first place.

Example right now I'm Folding with my CPU bone stock because I'm finishing up tuning up a new RAM kit with my card at stock voltage 1123 core with a custom fan profile 23.5 c ambient. I have 1x Thermalright TY147 exhausting and one on bottom intake at 12v on a controller. Front intakes are 1 Noiseblocker B12-4 (2400RPM) at half revs and one GT AP15 (1850rpm) at half as well. I've also repasted the GPU and removed all the HDD cages with no cables in sight. To be fair some games push the GPU a bit harder.

The pics in the sig rig except swap one of the Noiseblockers for a GT and the R2 at the back for another TY147. Anyway temps



I'm just imaging with those weak as Fractal fans, overclocked CPU 2X970's and all the HDD cages involved you might struggle with SLI

By all means try with the stock fans like that first and see how it goes. But I think you might find you will need to add more and better fans to keep things from cooking.

If youre not overclocking the CPU to much and you dont mind running the cards and CPU hot you may just be O.K, take into account my slight OCD about keeping stuff cool as well


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not so sure.. Not trying to pick a fight here and I am a bit of a freak for cooling my kit as much as possible, but I don't rate the included Fractal fans at all, I've used about 10 models of 140 and 120mm fans and they're about the worst I've used for actual cooling, they pull next to zero air into a case through a filter, and I believe R5 is even more restrictive on intakes then the Arc Midi R2 I'm using currently. Not to bad as an exhaust I suppose.
> 
> I know I'm not running SLI and that 970's run cooler then my 780 ACX (MSI gaming 970 is 10c cooler according to TPU testing then my 780 ACX SC if you believe their testing), but even so you are still going to be dumping a lot more heat into the case then I am that is all going to get pulled through your air HSF. And to keep those 970's cool you may have to set up a custom fan profile on the cards which is going to completely negate the benefit of having only 2 silent fans in the first place.
> 
> Example right now I'm Folding with my CPU bone stock because I'm finishing up tuning up a new RAM kit with my card at stock voltage 1123 core with a custom fan profile 23.5 c ambient. I have 1x Thermalright TY147 exhausting and one on bottom intake at 12v on a controller. Front intakes are 1 Noiseblocker B12-4 (2400RPM) at half revs and one GT AP15 (1850rpm) at half as well. I've also repasted the GPU and removed all the HDD cages with no cables in sight. To be fair some games push the GPU a bit harder.
> 
> The pics in the sig rig except swap one of the Noiseblockers for a GT and the R2 at the back for another TY147. Anyway temps
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just imaging with those weak as Fractal fans, overclocked CPU 2X970's and all the HDD cages involved you might struggle with SLI
> 
> By all means try with the stock fans like that first and see how it goes. But I think you might find you will need to add more and better fans to keep things from cooking.
> 
> 
> 
> If youre not overclocking the CPU to much and you dont mind running the cards and CPU hot you may just be O.K, take into account my slight OCD about keeping stuff cool as well


i was never suggesting not adding more fans. I only said the included fans were silent. i never said they were adequate for the whole setup.

All the fan speed stuff aside the gigabyte gaming g1 gtx 970 only run at 55-60c with an overclock. They are by far the coolest running 970 out there.

So my point is that the r5 is a capable case using those cool running cards to achieve the lower case fanspeeds if the appropriate fans are used.

The gpu fanspeeds will need to run above 60% on the top card. The top card is usaully 10c hotter than the lower in sli.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

I love my R5, but with a 5820K at 4.75Ghz .1.330V and 2x 980`s overclocked to 1518/2000Mhz is getting quite hot here...


----------



## reset1101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> I love my R5, but with a 5820K at 4.75Ghz .1.330V and 2x 980`s overclocked to 1518/2000Mhz is getting quite hot here...


What temps do you have in cpu and gpus?


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i was never suggesting not adding more fans. I only said the included fans were silent. i never said they were adequate for the whole setup.
> 
> All the fan speed stuff aside the gigabyte gaming g1 gtx 970 only run at 55-60c with an overclock. They are by far the coolest running 970 out there.
> 
> So my point is that the r5 is a capable case using those cool running cards to achieve the lower case fanspeeds if the appropriate fans are used.
> 
> The gpu fanspeeds will need to run above 60% on the top card. The top card is usaully 10c hotter than the lower in sli.


Ok fair enough.









It's just that if I was Reset1101 I would have read your answers like it was good with just the 2 fans, just thought it needed clarifying.

Of course its possible to run SLI in an R5, plenty of room, probably want a couple more / different fans though IMO. If someones running SLI 980/970 with the stock fans at good temps, chime in I'm just going off my own reasoning.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reset1101*
> 
> What temps do you have in cpu and gpus?


Cpu is around 60¤C under load (AKA bf4) Gpu`s are around 70¤C with a bit of a agressive fan speed. Running a custom Ek loop for Cpu


----------



## happyrichie

ooowww, owwww i just got my grid+ for my r3 case and found a fractal club!! im soo excited!!

1250w seasonic silent psu ready to go...

so im running with 120mm fractal fans 2 on the front and 1 in the side (gona upgrade to 140mm) intaking and a typhoon 120mm extracting and have been able to game at more or less the at the db of the typhoon extraction fan which has been pretty great so far, now im wondering what is most anyone has got out of this type of set up without water cooling?

gona get a 8320e upgrade under my big heat sink and was thinking of may be a 680 4gb phantom or something, any body got a 290x in their without opening up the top of the case?


----------



## JackCY

Define Rx can more than handle a couple of GPUs. If it struggles it's because of your fans or living in inhumane air temperatures.
R5 has 9 fan positions, so yeah it can handle multiple GPUs just fine.
R4 has 7 positions, no issues either.


----------



## reset1101

Thanks all of you for your advice. Yes, I was understanding that with 2-3 fans at low rpms would be enough for that SLI. But it seems too risky. I know the case can handle an SLI but what I want to avoid is having 5 fans spinning like crazy to get rid of that heat.

I dont like any fan over 900rpms, thats how demanding I am in terms of noise xD


----------



## falcon26

My R5 is seeing the GPU load temps at about 62C after playing BF4 for a couple of hours at 2560x1440. My CPU gets to about 50C. Are these OK for the R5 or should they be lower? I have 3 140MM fans in my system. Front Top and Rear...


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> My R5 is seeing the GPU load temps at about 62C after playing BF4 for a couple of hours at 2560x1440. My CPU gets to about 50C. Are these OK for the R5 or should they be lower? I have 3 140MM fans in my system. Front Top and Rear...


those temps are fine.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Added 2 Phantek 140s to the front of my case with the Front Fan screws that come with the R5. The Phantek fans are incredibly thick and the screws don't go through the whole fan. Hopefully it doesn't fall off the screws they're on right now but I think the dust filter will keep them in place.


----------



## EdTheHead

Are there any R5's in white in stock anywhere in the world? I might just have to settle for a different white case...


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Added 2 Phantek 140s to the front of my case with the Front Fan screws that come with the R5. The Phantek fans are incredibly thick and the screws don't go through the whole fan. Hopefully it doesn't fall off the screws they're on right now but I think the dust filter will keep them in place.


Nice. Are those the XPs? When I first got my R5 I got two XPs and they worked well except for the clicking noises they made below 700rpm which was a deal breaker.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> Nice. Are those the XPs? When I first got my R5 I got two XPs and they worked well except for the clicking noises they made below 700rpm which was a deal breaker.


Yeah they're XPs. I have them hooked up to the fan controller on the R5 so I have to run them at full speed or else they don't spin on any of the lower fan speed settings.


----------



## tateep

Oh yeah, I didn't like that either. For me only one of them needed 7v to start and then you could drop it down to 5v and it would run fine. Instead I plugged them into the motherboard and let Asus fan control take care of everything.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> Are there any R5's in white in stock anywhere in the world? I might just have to settle for a different white case...


They are stock around here in Europe. White with window and without as well. No problem to get them.


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> They are stock around here in Europe. White with window and without as well. No problem to get them.


I've been searching for the past two weeks for one...these parts need a home!

They must be really popular here in the US.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> I've been searching for the past two weeks for one...these parts need a home!
> 
> They must be really popular here in the US.


Amazon has them at a really high price though.


----------



## EdTheHead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> Amazon has them at a really high price though.


They don't actually have them in stock however. I figure I'll wait one more week before just going with a different case altogether.


----------



## Coryllus

I have to mount a xspc rx top and front rad in my arc mini r2, [case-fan-gasket-rad] but the supplied screws have a flat top, therefore don't fit into the holes in the case and are a bit short as a result, especially as i have added the 3mm radiator gasket from xspc.

Did you guys use different screws od did the originals fit?


----------



## JackCY

Coryllus can't find/buy screws that fit? You can always buy longer and then cut them shorter if length is an issue.

ETH: probably suppliers are out of stock in US


----------



## Mattousai

Just finished upgrading my rig, and am happy with how it turned out. I'm in the process of making a new sticker for my PSU, so it matches the color scheme, because I'm anal like that.









Sorry for the quality of the pics, I only had my S4 handy. I'll snap some better pics later with my SL1.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Anyone with a EVGA G2 PSU finding that you can't fit two 240 fans at the bottom of the case? It seems that the PSU is super long.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Anyone with a EVGA G2 PSU finding that you can't fit two 240 fans at the bottom of the case? It seems that the PSU is super long.


You can't even fit a 140mm fan once the PSU is mounted. However, you can mount a 120mm fan.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Didn't know that. I just assumed that my G2 was super long. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## 1Quickchic

I figured I would share a couple pictures of my 
Fractal R4 / X58 server /picture editing rig


----------



## Bumtsiki

I wanr to get rid of hdd cages in my R5. Now i am looking 2.5 hdd for ssd mount behind the motherboard. Do you guys recomment WD black or Red? OS is on the SSD, hdd would be used for games and movies only.

Also what is the difference in cache, red has 16mb, black 32mb.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Anyone with a EVGA G2 PSU finding that you can't fit two 240 fans at the bottom of the case? It seems that the PSU is super long.


R5? Two 240mm fans? No way








Two 140mm fans? Why not if there is no radiator on the front I would have no problem to fit two 140mm fans, tight but possible if your PSU doesn't block the fans with connectors.
You could always do 140+120mm easily if you don't like it tight or modding.

I think EVGA G2 will block the fan position with fan connectors no matter what orientation you choose that will still be only about 24mm of height left for the fan to squeeze into. So unless you mod you will run into some issues but nothing modding can't solve. If you are OCD then nope.
140+120mm will work fine without issues.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> I wanr to get rid of hdd cages in my R5. Now i am looking 2.5 hdd for ssd mount behind the motherboard. Do you guys recomment WD black or Red? OS is on the SSD, hdd would be used for games and movies only.
> 
> Also what is the difference in cache, red has 16mb, black 32mb.


you should be looking at 64mb cache drives.

I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YAHW6I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_dUf8ub1XVSS5D as storage paired with 2 ssd in my r5.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> you should be looking at 64mb cache drives.
> 
> I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YAHW6I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_dUf8ub1XVSS5D as storage paired with 2 ssd in my r5.


Yes, but i want to get rid of 3.5 drives and cages so you have to use laptop hdd.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Yes, but i want to get rid of 3.5 drives and cages so you have to use laptop hdd.


oh I see. Yea you will be limited to 32mb or you can get an sshd.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Yes, but i want to get rid of 3.5 drives and cages so you have to use laptop hdd.


No you don't. You can use something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverstone-SST-SDP10B-Converter-5-25-plus/dp/B00CK0HU4W. I am using two of them and it works perfectly fine. But if you've radiators etc in the way you probably will need to go for laptop hdds.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Yes, but i want to get rid of 3.5 drives and cages so you have to use laptop hdd.


*rolls eyes* no

You can suspend 3.5" drives unless you have too many of them, say more than 4 then you will probably run out of space to suspend them.

See my avatar, see the HDD? Suspended. Cages? NONE.
I could still suspend two HDDs in the 2x5.25 bay and another in front of the current suspended HDD without blocking any airflow much.


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattousai*
> 
> Just finished upgrading my rig, and am happy with how it turned out. I'm in the process of making a new sticker for my PSU, so it matches the color scheme, because I'm anal like that.


You mean like these?











You're not anal, this is OCN.


----------



## tateep

Looks like Fractal finally came out with some PWM fans with more static pressure.

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/case-fans/venturi-series/venturi-hp-14-pwm


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattousai*
> 
> Just finished upgrading my rig, and am happy with how it turned out. I'm in the process of making a new sticker for my PSU, so it matches the color scheme, because I'm anal like that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the quality of the pics, I only had my S4 handy. I'll snap some better pics later with my SL1.


Lol, I'm about to get rid of my HX because it doesn't match, it's too big and overkill anyway. I'd like 2x 140mm fans in the bottom.

Looks awesome, btw.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> Looks like Fractal finally came out with some PWM fans with more static pressure.
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/case-fans/venturi-series/venturi-hp-14-pwm


They actually look quite good on the paper. Only if price is right...


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> They actually look quite good on the paper. Only if price is right...


Agreed. If they're less than the Noctuas, I'll buy em. Wish they had white blades.


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> They actually look quite good on the paper. Only if price is right...


they do. very similar specs to the 140mm PWM fans i chose for my build:
http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-Radiator-Cooling-PH-F140XP_BK/dp/B00E9NZX7E


----------



## xaeryan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsco*
> 
> they do. very similar specs to the 140mm PWM fans i chose for my build:
> http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-Radiator-Cooling-PH-F140XP_BK/dp/B00E9NZX7E


Wasn't a fan of the XP. Could only drop to 600rpm min and was buzzy at all speeds. But I am OCD about silence. The stock FD fans were too loud for me. ?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/id0Bcvh7j

The latest setup in my R5.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Looks nice. Why not a ATX board over a mATX?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/eyjyROHxj

I was TJ08-E before this and didn't want to buy another motherboard just to fill up the case.


----------



## GMcDougal

I have a fractal arc R2 mini incoming and i have a few questions. First question behind mounting an SSD behind the motherboard tray. I have a 850 evo incoming and i would like to mount this behind the motherboard tray but i feel like this is bad for the SSD? Will it get enough air behind it to keep it cool? My second question is i have a corsair h80i incoming and im wondering where the best place to mount this cooler in this case. Im guessing the rear exhaust area? Also, it was recommended by someone to mount it on the rear exhaust area and have it drawing cool air in from the outside. Will the top fan exhaust enough of the hot air I'm introducing to keep my case cool? I have a custom style cooler on my gpu and worry about overloading the inside with excess heat. I also ordered an extra 140mm fan to put it in the top if need be.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> I have a fractal arc R2 mini incoming and i have a few questions. First question behind mounting an SSD behind the motherboard tray. I have a 850 evo incoming and i would like to mount this behind the motherboard tray but i feel like this is bad for the SSD? Will it get enough air behind it to keep it cool? My second question is i have a corsair h80i incoming and im wondering where the best place to mount this cooler in this case. Im guessing the rear exhaust area? Also, it was recommended by someone to mount it on the rear exhaust area and have it drawing cool air in from the outside. Will the top fan exhaust enough of the hot air I'm introducing to keep my case cool? I have a custom style cooler on my gpu and worry about overloading the inside with excess heat. I also ordered an extra 140mm fan to put it in the top if need be.


Depends on the SSD, really. Most won't have the slightest problem with it. Anand said the SSD 730 got really, really hot though...but the SSD 730 is strictly a desktop SSD and completely unsuitable for notebook use, unlike 99% of SSDs out there. I'd say your 850 Evo would do just fine.

Mine is in the drive cage because I have two other HDDs and the G2 750's cables are too stiff for me to fit the panel back on if the SSD is in the back.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> I have a fractal arc R2 mini incoming and i have a few questions. First question behind mounting an SSD behind the motherboard tray. I have a 850 evo incoming and i would like to mount this behind the motherboard tray but i feel like this is bad for the SSD? Will it get enough air behind it to keep it cool? My second question is i have a corsair h80i incoming and im wondering where the best place to mount this cooler in this case. Im guessing the rear exhaust area? Also, it was recommended by someone to mount it on the rear exhaust area and have it drawing cool air in from the outside. Will the top fan exhaust enough of the hot air I'm introducing to keep my case cool? I have a custom style cooler on my gpu and worry about overloading the inside with excess heat. I also ordered an extra 140mm fan to put it in the top if need be.


I have an 850 Pro mounted back there in my R5 and my temps range 30-35C, well within operating temps. Good cable management with decent air flow and you shouldn't have any problems. As far as which way to mount your cooler it's best to test different setups and see which one works best for you.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> I have a fractal arc R2 mini incoming and i have a few questions. First question behind mounting an SSD behind the motherboard tray. I have a 850 evo incoming and i would like to mount this behind the motherboard tray but i feel like this is bad for the SSD? Will it get enough air behind it to keep it cool? My second question is i have a corsair h80i incoming and im wondering where the best place to mount this cooler in this case. Im guessing the rear exhaust area? Also, it was recommended by someone to mount it on the rear exhaust area and have it drawing cool air in from the outside. Will the top fan exhaust enough of the hot air I'm introducing to keep my case cool? I have a custom style cooler on my gpu and worry about overloading the inside with excess heat. I also ordered an extra 140mm fan to put it in the top if need be.


I have two SanDisk SSDs (mounted with screws) and one crucual SSd (two side taped) behind mobo tray and they run ~35*C all times. There really is almost no difference when they were in the cage behind front fan


----------



## Mnemo05

here is my share, I present to you guys my lowly arc mini r2 build

cables are still messy and is a work in progress, would have gone full custom loop if not for budget constraints, ahaha!


----------



## EdTheHead

After three weeks of waiting for the R5 in white w/ window to come in stock somewhere in the US...I give up. Hello Corsair


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EdTheHead*
> 
> After three weeks of waiting for the R5 in white w/ window to come in stock somewhere in the US...I give up. Hello Corsair


It is really irritating that no one has the R5 windowed in white anywhere. I'm also tired of waiting and going with the Phanteks ETHO Luxe white. I am really disappointed in Fractal. I really wanted the R5 in white/windowed.


----------



## Mnemo05

Pretty pleased with the results, this case is fun to work with!


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lshuman*
> 
> It is really irritating that no one has the R5 windowed in white anywhere. I'm also tired of waiting and going with the Phanteks ETHO Luxe white. I am really disappointed in Fractal. I really wanted the R5 in white/windowed.


Rather be disappointed with US suppliers that are unable to have a working supply chain. Those cases are in shops in EU no problem everywhere.
Maybe a ship sank with them in the Pacific? I don't know. Probably just too few people actually want white cases as usual so US shops don't stock them and have them available "order only".

Here in a shops, the white version of R5 with window is the least sold of all Fractal cases. Usually followed by titanium versions even though they look the best of all


----------



## Temuka

Guys hello everyone !

I just ordered Fractal Design XL R2









SO I have 1 question to the owners of the fractal cases:

In my XL R2 there are 3 fans but I want to change them with something even more quiet because silence is my priority, so I wonder what fans did you guys used to replace stock fans and did they REALLY gave you difference in terms of silence ? Thanks in advance!


----------



## storm-83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Guys hello everyone !
> 
> I just ordered Fractal Design XL R2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SO I have 1 question to the owners of the fractal cases:
> 
> In my XL R2 there are 3 fans but I want to change them with something even more quiet because silence is my priority, so I wonder what fans did you guys used to replace stock fans and did they REALLY gave you difference in terms of silence ? Thanks in advance!


noctua just released a black redux line

Well, being a fan of noctua - those are what i went for. Driving 4 nf-p12 (from another build) off 5 volts makes my build virtually silent!
2 of them are sitting on my seidon 240m in the top as exhaust - temps are awesome on my 3570k @ 4.4ghz

Hope this helps


----------



## rrazer

R4 - Titanium windowed... looking forward to some organs


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *storm-83*
> 
> noctua just released a black redux line
> 
> Well, being a fan of noctua - those are what i went for. Driving 4 nf-p12 (from another build) off 5 volts makes my build virtually silent!
> 2 of them are sitting on my seidon 240m in the top as exhaust - temps are awesome on my 3570k @ 4.4ghz
> 
> Hope this helps


Sure they are nice... But I think 30$ for 1 fan... Noctua is charging customers mega premium...

Does anybody have Phanteks 140mm fans installed ?


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Sure they are nice... But I think 30$ for 1 fan... Noctua is charging customers mega premium...
> 
> Does anybody have Phanteks 140mm fans installed ?


I had 2x Phanteks 140mm XPs installed in the front of my R5 but they both made clicking noises below 700rpm. Many have them and don't have this issue but I wasn't going to keep sending them back until I found a set that didn't click. That said I have paid the Noctua Premium for silence. Amazon has the NF-A14 for $23.99


----------



## rrazer

I also gave away my stock fans and am a noctua supporter. The quality of the materials and the design and packaging is unmatched. Normally they should not be so expensive but given the fact that there are brands who charge $20 - $25 it is completely understandable.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Sure they are nice... But I think 30$ for 1 fan... Noctua is charging customers mega premium...
> 
> Does anybody have Phanteks 140mm fans installed ?


I have those 3pin phantekses with 120mm mounting holes. Can't recall the model now. Also I have Akasa Apache Black 140mm. They compete with noctua and cost way less. I can highly recommend them.


----------



## Temuka

Guys did they REALLY gave you difference in terms of silence ?


----------



## Leader

R4 door had few scratches so decided to hide those


----------



## rrazer

Quote:


> R4 door had few scratches so decided to hide those biggrin.gif


mine has also one little scratch in front and I can't stand it but I don't want to ruin the "swedish design"


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Guys did they REALLY gave you difference in terms of silence ?


Akasas did. Phanteks too, but akasas even more.


----------



## Temuka

This Akasa fans aren't available on amazon and ebay,any other solutions? I like phanteks,but I don't like that problem with clicking sound on low rpm







I need smth to work on 5v setting in built-in fan controller and to be silent as much as possible,but to be honest don't want to spend 30$ on 1 fan.... Don't know which ones to buy now


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> 
> 
> R4 door had few scratches so decided to hide those


Not my kinda design but this is bad ass and looks great








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> This Akasa fans aren't available on amazon and ebay,any other solutions? I like phanteks,but I don't like that problem with clicking sound on low rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need smth to work on 5v setting in built-in fan controller and to be silent as much as possible,but to be honest don't want to spend 30$ on 1 fan.... Don't know which ones to buy now


*cough* why are you shopping for computer parts on a general online shop and an auction server? No computer parts shops around?

I like the Akasas but they cost nearly as much as Noctua Redux fans.
I find it that unless a fan clicks it doesn't matter what brand it is. Even the stock FDs are not that loud with the clicking but they are louder than cheap Gelids I have due to it.
Pick what ever fan you like.
I didn't want to spend $30 even on all the fans together so I bought two Gelids $5 each, works, long warranty, quiet, does the job. Sure no crazy static pressure but I ain't pushing air through rads or grills anyway so why go buy $15 Akasas or Noctuas.


----------



## Temuka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Not my kinda design but this is bad ass and looks great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *cough* why are you shopping for computer parts on a general online shop and an auction server? No computer parts shops around?
> 
> I like the Akasas but they cost nearly as much as Noctua Redux fans.
> I find it that unless a fan clicks it doesn't matter what brand it is. Even the stock FDs are not that loud with the clicking but they are louder than cheap Gelids I have due to it.
> Pick what ever fan you like.
> I didn't want to spend $30 even on all the fans together so I bought two Gelids $5 each, works, long warranty, quiet, does the job. Sure no crazy static pressure but I ain't pushing air through rads or grills anyway so why go buy $15 Akasas or Noctuas.


Because I don't live in US and in my country pc shops have terrible part choises. Link me where did you buy gelids for 5$ each please,all I see price on them is smth between 15-20$ each fan


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Because I don't live in US and in my country pc shops have terrible part choises. Link me where did you buy gelids for 5$ each please,all I see price on them is smth between 15-20$ each fan


Me neither, so shopping on Amazon is actually expensive and have never bought anything from there. Ebay, sure, mostly tiny cheap things from China for hobbies.
Computer parts, local computer shops, most countries and even regions have some just like US has Newegg, microcenter, etc.

Those Gelids. I got them for 99CZK a piece, which right now is 4USD spot on. But the Akasa is 317CZK a piece ~ 13USD +shipping (5USD).

*Akasa has a distributor/shop locator.*
This is the fan. Or the 12cm, or the yellow Viper which runs faster if you want faster.


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Guys did they REALLY gave you difference in terms of silence ?


i'm running seven phanteks ph-f140xp fans in my arc xl. they are very quiet at 20% RPM (low load) and not unpleasant at 100% (dissipating 800W+). are they more silent than the stock fans? no. but they push a heck of a lot of air through radiators and filters at the same noise level! (the stock filters and grilles on the arc xl are comparable to a radiator in terms of restriction. it's pretty bad.)

only one of my fans has a bit of a click at low speeds. it was a little annoying in open air on the bench, but in the case, you really have to stick your ear up to the intake to notice it. i would recommend these fans for sure.


----------



## jbottz

Thought I'd just post a quick shot of my Arc Midi R2 build.


----------



## storm-83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temuka*
> 
> Guys did they REALLY gave you difference in terms of silence ?


For my Noctuas - yes
in terms of being able to lower the rpm and still being able to cool my components at same or even lower temps - yes

Was it pricey - very, but it was well spend for use with restrictive filters and in my case a radiator..

As mentioned above - if you don't have a rad to consider, go with what you can get your hands on, it seems that most companies these days have caught up with the game now...

Just to drop a few names i have experience with real quick;
Silverstone "airpenetrators"
Enermax "cluster"
Arctic "f4" (bit loud - but efficient)
Corsair Silent series
Cooler master Silencio (new fan)

If you don't want the hazzle of installing and using a fan controller - get a splitter for fractal's build in one - and maybe a nzxt grid to split the control voltage
- this way you can practically buy what ever you can ger your hands on and not worry


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Planning to stuff a EVGA P2 1000W into this case. Hopefully the extra length doesn't cover the whole PSU grommet.


----------



## yonathan

Is it possible to mount a 3.5 HDD in the 5.25 bay in the R5? Or use the ye olde suspension method?


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yonathan*
> 
> Is it possible to mount a 3.5 HDD in the 5.25 bay in the R5? Or use the ye olde suspension method?


Evercool Armor. http://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4

It's real tight with 3 hdds but it does come with a fan.


----------



## LeetGrandpa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yonathan*
> 
> Is it possible to mount a 3.5 HDD in the 5.25 bay in the R5? Or use the ye olde suspension method?


I'm wondering about this as well. Since I'm planning on having just one HDD (wd green) + ssd in my R4, it seems to me like HDD cage is unnecessarily blocking the airflow. Will it get too hot for the hard drive that way and is there some other way to mount a HDD without that huge HDD cage?


----------



## JackCY

Suspension works. Either from the 5.25 down, like I've done it. Or you can suspend it in the 5.25 itself, I've tested that too. Pics in the gallery.


----------



## contay

EDIT: Bloody pile of poop. This was supposed to go to Node304 club. Anyway, I made a moron of myself already.

Noctua released new itx-compatible cooler. Those interested in very small cooler should check this NH-L9 out! It would sure help if you plan mounting all three cages there or have huge ram heat sinks. We'll see how it performs.


----------



## baconbriefs

I couldn't find a Node 804 Club so I would like to share my air cooled on here. There seems to be a lack of them in this thread which makes me sad.


----------



## incog

That's one mighty fine looking rig!


----------



## GMcDougal

After doing a ridiculous amount of research for a mATX case, i luckily came across the Fractal R2 Mini and i could not be happier. Here are some pics of my finished build.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Suspension works. Either from the 5.25 down, like I've done it. Or you can suspend it in the 5.25 itself, I've tested that too. Pics in the gallery.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks for this. I was wanting to ditch my hardrive cage completely to add a 280mm.


----------



## Mnemo05

that suspension method is a clever way to manage your hdds and at the same time address any possible vibration issue.. will surely explore that when I decide to reconfigure my rig


----------



## dainfamous

Are you able to mount thermalright ty-14x fans on the r5? Its an 140mm fan with 120mm holes. Specs L160mm x H140mm x W26.5mm.

Thanks


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> Are you able to mount thermalright ty-14x fans on the r5? Its an 140mm fan with 120mm holes. Specs L160mm x H140mm x W26.5mm.
> 
> Thanks


If there is an issue then only because the fans are 152x140mm but I think I could fit it anywhere in R4 except the front of course where you would need to cut it down to 140x140 or adapt the front fan holder, which on R5 is integral I think, from metal so it's probably pretty much a no go to fit oversized fans in it. I have one on CPU. 120mm holes aren't an issue.


----------



## jopemoro

OK, so after my doubts about whether an MSi X99S Gaming 9 ack mobo (eatx) would fit into a Define R5, I am happy to report that it fits perfectly









Here's a picture of the build:



And the whole building process is here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jopemoro/sets/72157650808348238/

So, thanks all for the information, I'm a happy camper!


----------



## JackCY

The PSU is usually mounted with bottom intake since it gets fresh cold air, doesn't steal air from GPU and the bottom also has a filter.


----------



## timepart

Fractal Arc Midi
I7-4790k
Evga 780SC 6Gb
Evga 850w G2
Asus Hero 7

EK CSQ blocks all sanded and polished
Bitspower Fittings
Alphacool Monsta 360
Corsair SP120 fans and AF140 fans
















Sorry getting better at camera raw and photoshop


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fractal Arc Midi
> I7-4790k
> Evga 780SC 6Gb
> Evga 850w G2
> Asus Hero 7
> 
> EK CSQ blocks all sanded and polished
> Bitspower Fittings
> Alphacool Monsta 360
> Corsair SP120 fans and AF140 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry getting better at camera raw and photoshop


Stop stealing my ideas! Jesus!


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Will the ASUS X99-E WS motherboard fit the R5?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Will the ASUS X99-E WS motherboard fit the R5?


Compare dimensions hey, the max dimensions are posted somewhere here I'm sure.
You can see above MSi X99S Gaming 9 ack does fit, compare dimensions of it with yours.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

So my side panel window for the Define R5 has a bunch of micro scratches from wiping it down with a lint-free cloth (probably had small particles of whatever was on it). Would this work to get rid of the scratches?

http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426517135&sr=8-2&keywords=acrylic+scratch+remover


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Stop stealing my ideas! Jesus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs a 5.25 bay anyhow! I am waiting on a case upgrade, and the monsta barely fits allowing about .5" of clearance from my cpu compression fittings. The top mounting holes on mine dont line up at all and I almost have my ram modules hitting the fans on the back side. I hit low 40s on my gpu and 47-55 cpu average temp during maxed out gameplay


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Compare dimensions hey, the max dimensions are posted somewhere here I'm sure.
> You can see above MSi X99S Gaming 9 ack does fit, compare dimensions of it with yours.


The Msi is 30.5cmx26.4cm while the WS board is 30.5cmx26.7cm, So a difference of 3mm, i guess that wont mean anything?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Stop stealing my ideas! Jesus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who needs a 5.25 bay anyhow! I am waiting on a case upgrade, and the monsta barely fits allowing about .5" of clearance from my cpu compression fittings. The top mounting holes on mine dont line up at all and I almost have my ram modules hitting the fans on the back side. I hit low 40s on my gpu and 47-55 cpu average temp during maxed out gameplay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great temps. What case are you planning to upgrade to?
Click to expand...


----------



## timepart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Great temps. What case are you planning to upgrade to?


I actually had a xt45 before the monsta and had really sub par temps. They were not that great compared to the H100I I had previously. Gpu temp would hit near 50 under gaming and cpu would hit in the 57-60 range in gaming with cores in the high 60s. I only had a 4.6 ghz overclock and a tad overvolt on my card. Im going to move to a Caselabs M8 in gunmetal grey. I want to some day upgrade to another 360 for the case. Im building in the next month here with one xt45 360 and one monsta 360 with push pull. The only real complaint on the case is the fact of cable management being pretty dismal. I am only using less than half my cables and im flexing the back cover.

Im sure my voltages could be fixed and tweaked a little bit. Intel burn test hit high 80s cpu and core. prime 95 26.6 hit low to mid 70s for cpu temps and core temps in the high 70s. Gpu has never seen higher than a 50 deg test and runs valley bench mark at low 40s


----------



## KoNLaR

Here is my first custom loop build finished with the Fractal R4









Specs: http://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> The Msi is 30.5cmx26.4cm while the WS board is 30.5cmx26.7cm, So a difference of 3mm, i guess that wont mean anything?


I would not say it will be an unsolvable issue. At worst you might have to remove the grommets or something.
At best asks someone with an R5 for precise measurement, it is hiding somewhere in this thread too but I can't find it easily, it's been asked and answered before though that I am sure.

If I was buying it would be simple, order it, if it fits keep the case, if it doesn't return it within 14 days and buy a different one, R4, ...


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I would not say it will be an unsolvable issue. At worst you might have to remove the grommets or something.
> At best asks someone with an R5 for precise measurement, it is hiding somewhere in this thread too but I can't find it easily, it's been asked and answered before though that I am sure.
> 
> If I was buying it would be simple, order it, if it fits keep the case, if it doesn't return it within 14 days and buy a different one, R4, ...


I already got the r5, but i get the ws board for "free" trading my own x99-s, a good trade. Hmm

I am at school now, sp i will look for the post, any idea when it was posted? Month?
Thanks!


----------



## JackCY

When you already have an R5 it's rather simple isn't it? Measure the space there truly is for the mobo.
Mobo dimensions are quite precise, but the specs for cases always allow for some little extra.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> When you already have an R5 it's rather simple isn't it? Measure the space there truly is for the mobo.
> Mobo dimensions are quite precise, but the specs for cases always allow for some little extra.


It may fit, bud i didnt get a 100% accurate since i already got another mobo installed


----------



## Duality92

For all of your information, the EK Coolstream PE 360/240/120 are a PITA to install on the top of the Arc Mini R2. Just FYI. It's doable, but a huge PITA. Add me to the club. I also own a white window Define R4.


----------



## Hanks

heya fractal peeps, got a question to field with regards to my upcoming build. been looking at a few matx options and pretty much narrowed it down to the Define Mini or Arc Mini r2. no doubt lots of you have experience with one of both of these cases, so i'd appreciate any input you could offer. basically my rig will be a fairly low powered affair - mainly for browsing, music, downloads. i'll likely use the onboard i5 graphics or sticking in my old 4850 until i get a new gpu, which might not be for a while. other components will be 2 x 3.5 inch drives (both 7200rpm), 1 x SSD, an optical drive (for music and burning) and a pci-e soundcard. my PSU is a nice corsair hx620 i'm recycling from the old system (overkill i know). mobo will be a H97 series, i won't be doing any overclocking and will be using the stock CPU cooler.

the main problem i have with the arc mini is all the mesh on the top/front combined with the foam dust filters and not a big fan of windows. this looks like a nightmare to maintain, especially the top mesh. if anyone can comment on how easy it is to keep clean over longer periods i'd really appreciate it. the positive is that the case undoubtedly has great airflow, even in stock form. now the define i prefer the look of, the power button is a lot nicer (though will need to mod the bright LED) and the top isn't totally open so will be a lot easier to clean. my main concern with that case is temperatures, namely hdd temps as it seems to have restricted air flow due to the door (benchmarks confirm this). should this really be a concern with the lack of hardware i'll have running in the case? it seems like it would be enough, but i could put the back fan in the second front slot and get something fancier for the exhaust to improve things. that would be about as far as i'd want to go with messing with the case, aside from maybe opening the top vent as an extra spot for warm air to escape.

so i guess it comes down to whether the cooling in the define mini really that bad and is external dust cleaning annoying with the arc. the idea of hard drives getting too hot in the define mini (though the SSD will be the system drive) worries me a little, especially if the system is left on all the time. seems like plenty of people are using the case as a file server/HTPC though. if anyone is able to chime in i'd be most grateful


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanks*
> 
> heya fractal peeps, got a question to field with regards to my upcoming build. been looking at a few matx options and pretty much narrowed it down to the Define Mini or Arc Mini r2. no doubt lots of you have experience with one of both of these cases, so i'd appreciate any input you could offer. basically my rig will be a fairly low powered affair - mainly for browsing, music, downloads. i'll likely use the onboard i5 graphics or sticking in my old 4850 until i get a new gpu, which might not be for a while. other components will be 2 x 3.5 inch drives (both 7200rpm), 1 x SSD, an optical drive (for music and burning) and a pci-e soundcard. my PSU is a nice corsair hx620 i'm recycling from the old system (overkill i know). mobo will be a H97 series, i won't be doing any overclocking and will be using the stock CPU cooler.
> 
> the main problem i have with the arc mini is all the mesh on the top/front combined with the foam dust filters and not a big fan of windows. this looks like a nightmare to maintain, especially the top mesh. if anyone can comment on how easy it is to keep clean over longer periods i'd really appreciate it. the positive is that the case undoubtedly has great airflow, even in stock form. now the define i prefer the look of, the power button is a lot nicer (though will need to mod the bright LED) and the top isn't totally open so will be a lot easier to clean. my main concern with that case is temperatures, namely hdd temps as it seems to have restricted air flow due to the door (benchmarks confirm this). should this really be a concern with the lack of hardware i'll have running in the case? it seems like it would be enough, but i could put the back fan in the second front slot and get something fancier for the exhaust to improve things. that would be about as far as i'd want to go with messing with the case, aside from maybe opening the top vent as an extra spot for warm air to escape.
> 
> so i guess it comes down to whether the cooling in the define mini really that bad and is external dust cleaning annoying with the arc. the idea of hard drives getting too hot in the define mini (though the SSD will be the system drive) worries me a little, especially if the system is left on all the time. seems like plenty of people are using the case as a file server/HTPC though. if anyone is able to chime in i'd be most grateful


If you have fans in the top then its not a big deal as dust wont settle. You can remove the mesh as well.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

*BIG UPDATE!*

Both the ASUS X99 Rampage V Extreme & ASUS X99-E WS motherboards fit in the define R5 :=)

pics of the R5E http://www.diskusjon.no/uploads/monthly_03_2015/post-61603-0-70073400-1426982808.jpg


----------



## Kimir

They are the same size as the r4e and r4be,no surprise...


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Well, that was a useful answer..

If you got the R5 for yourself you can see that the metall for the wires etc er in a angle, so i may not fit. not everybody knew that these mobos would fit either.


----------



## Boydwazup

Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Tower Case Black Pearl

I bought this case and i had to share my love for it

i was able to get thsi case from ncix online for 79.99 on sale and was in need for a case that my 2 year old could not mess with and would meet my cooling and overclocking needs

well i found it to be the best case i have ever owned it has lots of space inside and cooling is the name of the game with 140mm fans all over the place on this unit it dose very well to keep things cool







6 fans able to be put in this case 140mm not 120mm Sweet:thumb:

now water cooling space i have a dual rad and it fits nice on the top of the case for awsome venting of heat works great no performance increas but fits nice

wire management cant see a wire in the case at all just where they plug into the board









Sound suppression awesome even gaming it is pretty silent still is noise but not alot but when it is idle you cant even tell it is running Fantastic

Look it is a solid out side shell which makes it really child proof i love it no more pecils in my fans HAHAHAHA

overall the case really good for what i needed and i hope that any one that is looking for a child proof and nice cool case will give it a chance

By the way it is a huge case alot bigger then most not a compact design at all you need alot of space for it but worth the investment


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boydwazup*
> 
> Fractal Design Define R5 ATX Tower Case Black Pearl
> 
> I bought this case and i had to share my love for it
> 
> i was able to get thsi case from ncix online for 79.99 on sale and was in need for a case that my 2 year old could not mess with and would meet my cooling and overclocking needs
> 
> well i found it to be the best case i have ever owned it has lots of space inside and cooling is the name of the game with 140mm fans all over the place on this unit it dose very well to keep things cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6 fans able to be put in this case 140mm not 120mm Sweet:thumb:
> 
> now water cooling space i have a dual rad and it fits nice on the top of the case for awsome venting of heat works great no performance increas but fits nice
> 
> wire management cant see a wire in the case at all just where they plug into the board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sound suppression awesome even gaming it is pretty silent still is noise but not alot but when it is idle you cant even tell it is running Fantastic
> 
> Look it is a solid out side shell which makes it really child proof i love it no more pecils in my fans HAHAHAHA
> 
> overall the case really good for what i needed and i hope that any one that is looking for a child proof and nice cool case will give it a chance
> 
> By the way it is a huge case alot bigger then most not a compact design at all you need alot of space for it but worth the investment


Wait until your 2y old figures out how to open and play with the front door







Good bye front door, front filter and pencils in the fans again









It's not a big case, cases used to be even bigger, maybe not as wide but were longer and higher in this segment. Sure nowadays you can buy the cheapo thin metal cases that are tiny and rattle like a snake.


----------



## Boydwazup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Wait until your 2y old figures out how to open and play with the front door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good bye front door, front filter and pencils in the fans again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a big case, cases used to be even bigger, maybe not as wide but were longer and higher in this segment. Sure nowadays you can buy the cheapo thin metal cases that are tiny and rattle like a snake.


Yeah the front door has not interested the 2 year old yet i don't think she knows that the front door opens i have been mindful to not open it when she is around









as to the size I have always purchsed cool master cases as the cost is low quality was not too bad, But this case was much larger then i thought it was it seems not that big but when you do a side by side comparrison to other cases it is on the bigger size and Ladies size does matter LOL


----------



## RazrLeaf

I own a Define R5, and I've looked at all of the technical drawings that Alphacool has for their NexXxos radiators (as well as the published specifications), and based on the measurements, the following come down to tenths of a millimeter:

1.Will a UT60 280mm radiator fit in the front of the Define R5 with the optical drive bays still in place (with ports on the top side)? I suspect that it's very snug, and may require a gasket (3-4mm) so that the ports on the end can fit into the slots that are for the pegs of the HDD cages.
2.Will a XT45 280mm radiator fit in the front of the Define R5 with the optical drive bays still in place (with ports on the top side)? I suspect that this one won't, as the thickness added by the plugs on the end should make it just a tad too long.


----------



## timepart

A 240 will for sure fit in this case. Here is a link to an R4, but they should be very similar for visual purposes. A long graphics card or watercooling with the hard drive cages will be almost impossible however for a pump mount other than a bay device.

http://i.ytimg.com/vi/d6s8CF2A5-0/maxresdefault.jpg


----------



## RazrLeaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timepart*
> 
> A 240 will for sure fit in this case. Here is a link to an R4, but they should be very similar for visual purposes. A long graphics card or watercooling with the hard drive cages will be almost impossible however for a pump mount other than a bay device.


I asked about a 280, not a 240. I know a 240 fits.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Hi guys, I'm doing a new server build in the Fractal R5 and I'm looking for another 3 drive HDD cage with trays. If anyone has one they aren't using please let me know, I've got a classified up here. Thank you!


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm doing a new server build in the Fractal R5 and I'm looking for another 3 drive HDD cage with trays. If anyone has one they aren't using please let me know, I've got a classified up here. Thank you!


Puget Systems carries Fractal Design parts. Check them out: http://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=All+Categories&que=%22fractal+design%22


----------



## ptuhkane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steelkevin*
> 
> After 4 hours of testing split in two sessions of 2 hours each with an idle time of about on hour in between I have results on the impact of the Arc Midi's dust filters.
> You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).
> The filters were cleaned and absolutely dust free.
> The ambient temp remained between 25.9°C and 26.6°C throughout the entire testing.
> 
> *Without dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -RealTemp: 66° | 64° | 61° | 64°
> -HWiNFO64: 65° | 64° | 62° | 64°
> 
> *With dust filters:*
> -HWMonitor: 71° | 70° | 66° | 70°
> -RealTemp: 71° | 70° | 66° | 71°
> -HWiNFO64: 70° | 70° | 67° | 71°
> 
> *Conclusion:* the use of the Arc Midi R2's stock Dust Filters increase CPU temperature by 5-7°C.
> 
> These results may vary depending on your setup. I have a front 280mm rad in push/pull pulling out into the case through the front dust filter and another 280mm in push pushing the air out through the top dust filter.


This part made me wonder: You have to take into account that I didn't remove just the dust filters so results could be influenced by the addition of the mesh too (top pannel and front magnetic mesh/filter).

Does Fractal Design Arc R2 really have magnetic top panel or magnetic mesh/filter? I even asked Fractal Design about this and they told me that Fractal Design ARC R2 doesn't have other magnet parts than its fans. Can you tell me is this true? I am thinking of buying Arc Midi R2 Solid Side Panel computer case.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Modded my Define r5 hdd tray to fit a D5 pump. I will Mount one of two ssds i got, and 2 hdd below









Then ny Define will soon house gpu sli and cpu Custom watercooling, e-atx mobo and stiøø got some room for some hdds, i am impressed!


----------



## khemist

My R5.


----------



## LolCakeLazors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> My R5.


Looks awesome. I'm highly considering watercooling my 290X in the future and I'm either considering getting a H240X and using that as my reservoir and pump or putting buying a reservoir and pump and putting it near where yours is.

Quick question, would it be feasible to connect the reservoir and pump to the radiator in the front and have the tubing look nice if I positioned it near where you put yours? I've seen some options on where to put the reservoir in the R5 and I'm not a fan of putting a reservoir on top of a HDD rack in front of the radiator area.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

The Fractal Design Define R4 was on sale on Newegg today so I decided to take the plunge. It should be here next week. Really looking forward to transferring my system into the new chassis. I've kind of been underwhelmed by my NZXT Tempest ever since shoving everything in there. Tabs on the top plastic cover broke off when I was putting things together so it's never really been that solid. I will be sure to post pictures once I get everything squared away.


----------



## itssowrong

My Define R5






Case:Fractal Design Define R5
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth Z77
Processor: Intel I5-3570K (Overclocked @ 4.3)
Ram: 16GB of Corsair Vengeance
GPU: Asus Strix GTX 970
PSU: Rosewill 750W 80+Gold Semi Modular
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC12DX
HDD: 3X 1TB (2 Seagate 1 WD)
SSD: OCZ Vertex 460 250GB

My PC is currently Dual Booting Windows 8.1 Pro as Well as MAC OS X Yosemite


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LolCakeLazors*
> 
> Looks awesome. I'm highly considering watercooling my 290X in the future and I'm either considering getting a H240X and using that as my reservoir and pump or putting buying a reservoir and pump and putting it near where yours is.
> 
> Quick question, would it be feasible to connect the reservoir and pump to the radiator in the front and have the tubing look nice if I positioned it near where you put yours? I've seen some options on where to put the reservoir in the R5 and I'm not a fan of putting a reservoir on top of a HDD rack in front of the radiator area.


Not sure man, i'm not a fan of the looks of them to begin with so i would be a bit biased.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Not sure man, i'm not a fan of the looks of them to begin with so i would be a bit biased.


*GASP!* How could you turn down the beautiful Apogee XL??

Once one has seen the Supremacy Evo, it really changes one's opinion of other CPU blocks' aesthetics. For the worse. It's hard to find a block that stacks up to EK's in terms of looks.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> *GASP!* How could you turn down the beautiful Apogee XL??
> 
> Once one has seen the Supremacy Evo, it really changes one's opinion of other CPU blocks' aesthetics. For the worse. It's hard to find a block that stacks up to EK's in terms of looks.


I don't like any blocks from EK or Swiftech, looks wise, gpu or cpu. For me it's Heatkiller all the way.




And Heatkiller build quality is just top shelf. Might not perform better than EK or Swiftech but for physical product quality, just holding it in your hand, other manufacturers just cannot compare. Watercool is simply king.


----------



## TheADLA

Hi folks









here is my R5. I exchanged the stock fans for 2 Noctua NF-F12 PWM (Mobo temperature controlled)


----------



## chessmyantidrug

Unfortunately the camera on my phone sucks. I really wanted to take pictures because my new Define R4 is so much better than the NZXT Tempest it replaced. My temperatures are slightly higher, but I have fewer fans on this case and the door impedes airflow. Temperatures increased about 1C across all cores under load so it really isn't that big of a deal. Maybe I'll dig up my last phone and try to snap a few pictures with that.


----------



## khemist

Ordered my windowed panel for the White R5 at last, came to £24 delivered if anyone is interested in the same.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Here is my custom loop in the define r5. Hope you like it. The case is a bit to small to fit the rad inside..







But ehh, it dosent look all that bad in real life










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MiiX

I started my modding today since I don't have work before Wednesday









I got told that a 240/280 rad what the biggest rad I could fit a long time ago...
Whether they were wrong, or the case has grown over time I dont know for sure...


Spoiler: Warning: PHONE PICTURES!!!







Going to start a buildlog soon, will post link here if anyone is interested








Build log up and running!
*[Build Log] Cold Devil*


----------



## freestyle10461

hey guys quick question was hoping someone could answer for me i am planing on getting the fractal design R5 and was wondering if a top mounted swiftech H220-X would fit in this case without removing drive bays, really love the look of this case... thnx for any help


----------



## chessmyantidrug

I would assume a 240mm radiator would fit just fine without have to remove any bays.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> I would assume a 240mm radiator would fit just fine without have to remove any bays.


yes it will.

The negatives with using a top mounted rad is that fractal doesnt offer a filter to cover the moduvent area.


----------



## freestyle10461

great, thnx for the info guys just could not figure out if the swiftech h220-x would fit or not ,might have to look into somehow coming up with my own dust filter for the case when i have some time.


----------



## ElectricDevil

anybody know if theres a way to use the Hard dries without the cage on a R2 xl? just curious i have a ssd and a 3.5" drive


----------



## Wirerat

Performancepcs custom ordered a demci magnetic filter for my R5 for only $19 if anyone else needs one.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Performancepcs custom ordered a demci magnetic filter for my R5 for only $19 if anyone else needs one.


Do you have a link to it or did you have to contact them? Also can you post some pictures of it?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Do you have a link to it or did you have to contact them? Also can you post some pictures of it?


i just emailed them yesterday. They are shipping it out today.

They want you to give them the measurements of the filter you need. 16.25" x 7" is what I requested. I will post pictures of the fit when i get it.

Its not going to fit like the moduvents but it will look a lot beter than three 120mm magnetic filters I have now.


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i just emailed them yesterday. They are shipping it out today.


Does it replace the front filter? Post some pictures when you get it please.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Does it replace the front filter? Post some pictures when you get it please.


the top. The filter i ordered is for the top.


----------



## freestyle10461

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Performancepcs custom ordered a demci magnetic filter for my R5 for only $19 if anyone else needs one.


great thnx for the info







once i get my case i will be ordering a top filter for my case


----------



## finecut

Anyone knows if i can fit a r9 290 graphics card on the vertical pcie expansion slot in the arc midi r2?
Sent my card for RMA and bought another one thinking that i could crossfire when the RMA came back.
Now its back and both cards cant fit my Asus Maximus gene mobo. I got a riser and getto zip tied the other card to my case.
Saw there's a +1 pcie on the arc midi r2 with the option for AIO watercooling.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finecut*
> 
> Anyone knows if i can fit a r9 290 graphics card on the vertical pcie expansion slot in the arc midi r2?
> Sent my card for RMA and bought another one thinking that i could crossfire when the RMA came back.
> Now its back and both cards cant fit my Asus Maximus gene mobo. I got a riser and getto zip tied the other card to my case.
> Saw there's a +1 pcie on the arc midi r2 with the option for AIO watercooling.


Why won't they fit? I believe it's a standard size pci-e expansion slot so you could put it there as long as it's a single slot GPU and use a pci-e extender ribbon. Never tried it though so not sure it can definitely be done.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Why won't they fit? I believe it's a standard size pci-e expansion slot so you could put it there as long as it's a single slot GPU and use a pci-e extender ribbon. Never tried it though so not sure it can definitely be done.


It always sounds simple but sometimes it's hard to fit/doesn't ever fit. I think it's a case compatibility issue. My GT 640 suffered from this problem; no amount of ungodly force could jam it into the first x16 slot on my Z77 Extreme3. The second slot fit fine. And yes, it's not a matter of forgetting to unlock the latch on the slot. My R7 265 also sits a bit higher than it should in the slot. Also not a latch problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finecut*
> 
> Anyone knows if i can fit a r9 290 graphics card on the vertical pcie expansion slot in the arc midi r2?
> Sent my card for RMA and bought another one thinking that i could crossfire when the RMA came back.
> Now its back and both cards cant fit my Asus Maximus gene mobo. I got a riser and getto zip tied the other card to my case.
> Saw there's a +1 pcie on the arc midi r2 with the option for AIO watercooling.


Probably wouldn't be an option? You'd either need a single-slot I/O plate for your R9 290 or ghetto mod the case somehow. There's only one vertical PCIe slot in Fractal cases.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

I don't quite understand the purpose of that vertical expansion card slot. How would one even connect the card to the motherboard?


----------



## lagittaja

The purpose of the single vertical slot is for example a fan controller. Perhaps a sound card with a riser cable. Or maybe a TV tuner card. And so on. Endless possibilities.


With a PCI Express riser.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

Gotcha. Basically useless for my needs. This case is a lot quieter than the Tempest it replaced so I don't really need a fan controller. Then again, I didn't carry over the 120mm Yate Loons.


----------



## Shadow460

My R3,which is pretty old now


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow460*
> 
> My R3,which is pretty old now
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Still lookin nice tho


----------



## lagittaja

I'll be getting the Define R5 on monday. Stupid easter holidays messes everything up








Ordered early on wednesday morning but Jimm's only managed to ship my order this morning so the earliest it will arrive is monday..

By the way, how many of you R5 owners have actually replaced the GP14 fans that come with the case because of them not sounding good to your ears? Or how many people have replaced them just because they come with the case and make the assumption "fans that come with case = rubbish"?
After reading a few reviews, and just to name one, the SilentPCReview's "Quiet ATX Gamers, R5 version" article I can't see a reason to swap them out unless you're planning something else like radiators which would require fans with better static pressure..
Blade geometry looks good, excellent motor choice with a min starting voltage of 4V and hydraulic bearings and so on. But will have to wait till next week to properly judge them.

My current plans are to keep the GP14's but put them both on the front and place my NF-A14 PWM in the rear fan slot. And since the integrated fan controllers low setting is 5V I plan on adding a resistor to the GP14's to knock the voltage down to 4V which is their minimum starting voltage.
Which should drop their rpm down around to ~350rpm, more to my liking. Reasoning being I still want to use my NF-A14 which I like quite a lot and to make sure all intake air is going through the front filter and that I've got plenty of positive air pressure.

Don't want the pressure going near neutral or for that matter negative when and if my motherboard decides to ramp up the NF-A14 when under load.
Although if I'll be doing _something_ on my computer, like rendering or video editing I'll probably end up bumping the GP14's from low to medium (7V) temporarily on which the GP14's would be spinning roughly at 600rpm according to Lennie from Fractal so even when the mobo decides to ramp up the A14 the pressure should stay slightly above neutral.
Me and my missus got cats so.. I guess time will tell how that^ would work, whether or not I'll see dust build up. Cat hair should be easily catched by the filters but of course the smaller dust particles will be a tougher job.

E: P.S. Replacing my Lian Li PC-A05N as I want easier to clean dust filters. Got those metal filters on my current input fans and they're a bit tedious to clean. Of course I can just vacuum the filter without taking them off but it doesn't get all the crap off of the filter so it will just end up clogged in short amount of time.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I'll be getting the Define R5 on monday. Stupid easter holidays messes everything up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered early on wednesday morning but Jimm's only managed to ship my order this morning so the earliest it will arrive is monday..
> 
> By the way, how many of you R5 owners have actually replaced the GP14 fans that come with the case because of them not sounding good to your ears? Or how many people have replaced them just because they come with the case and make the assumption "fans that come with case = rubbish"?
> After reading a few reviews, and just to name one, the SilentPCReview's "Quiet ATX Gamers, R5 version" article I can't see a reason to swap them out unless you're planning something else like radiators which would require fans with better static pressure..
> Blade geometry looks good, excellent motor choice with a min starting voltage of 4V and hydraulic bearings and so on. But will have to wait till next week to properly judge them.
> 
> My current plans are to keep the GP14's but put them both on the front and place my NF-A14 PWM in the rear fan slot. And since the integrated fan controllers low setting is 5V I plan on adding a resistor to the GP14's to knock the voltage down to 4V which is their minimum starting voltage..


The included fans are 140mm 1000 RPM max. They are not loud by any measure.


----------



## lagittaja

Any 140mm fan running at 1000rpm will be loud. The speed of the blade tips spinning at 1000rpm is so high.
Good thing that we have fan controllers so we can make our fans silent.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Any 140mm fan running at 1000rpm will be loud. The speed of the blade tips spinning at 1000rpm is so high.
> Good thing that we have fan controllers so we can make our fans silent.


sarcasm i hope lol.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Any 140mm fan running at 1000rpm will be loud. The speed of the blade tips spinning at 1000rpm is so high.
> Good thing that we have fan controllers so we can make our fans silent.


Did you know that a 140mm fan would produce less noise than a smaller fan spinning at the same speed? That's one of the advantages to using 140mm and larger fans.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> Did you know that a 140mm fan would produce less noise than a smaller fan spinning at the same speed? That's one of the advantages to using 140mm and larger fans.


Haha, I hope that was a joke.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Haha, I hope that was a joke.


Consider a ceiling fan. You can literally feel how much air it moves on the lowest setting. As you speed it up, it gets louder but nowhere near as loud as any case fan would at similar speeds. Physics is hard to understand sometimes.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> Consider a ceiling fan. You can literally feel how much air it moves on the lowest setting. As you speed it up, it gets louder but nowhere near as loud as any case fan would at similar speeds. Physics is hard to understand sometimes.


I'm a bit confused as to where you're coming from as well. A 140mm fan at 1000 RPM is louder then a 120mm fan at 1000 rpm. The point of bigger fans is that you can keep them at lower rpms to move a similar amount of air to a faster spinning, louder smaller fan, as long as there's not to much restriction.









Otherwise we'd all have 1200 RPM + 200/230mm case fans.

Celing fans only have 3 or four blades spread wide apart generally, I'm no scientist but that surely has something to do with it being quieter.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> Did you know that a 140mm fan would produce less noise than a smaller fan spinning at the same speed? That's one of the advantages to using 140mm and larger fans.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Haha, I hope that was a joke.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> Consider a ceiling fan. You can literally feel how much air it moves on the lowest setting. As you speed it up, it gets louder but nowhere near as loud as any case fan would at similar speeds. Physics is hard to understand sometimes.


So your statement is that a 140mm fan running at 1000rpm is quieter than a 120mm fan running at 1000rpm?
Surely your statement would be backed up by SilentPCReview's anechoic chamber measurements? How about NF-P14 FLX and Noiseblocker Multiframe series M12-S2?


Oh wait no..


----------



## chessmyantidrug

I have two 140mm fans spinning at 2000 RPM that I can't hear and used to have two 120mm fans spinning at 2000 RPM that kept me up at night. The notion that any fan spinning at 1000 RPM being loud is humorous. In my experience, 140 mm fans have always been quieter.


----------



## lagittaja

If you're serious then I'd recommend you go and get your hearing checked out.
Oh and I didn't notice you're American until now, that pretty much explains it.
Why don't you grab a pair of 5312/2 TDHP's from EBM-Papst while you're at it, I guess you can't hear those either.


----------



## Slink3Slyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> I have two 140mm fans spinning at 2000 RPM that I can't hear and used to have two 120mm fans spinning at 2000 RPM that kept me up at night. The notion that any fan spinning at 1000 RPM being loud is humorous. In my experience, 140 mm fans have always been quieter.


I agree that no 120/140 fans are loud at 1000 rpm. However It doesnt only depend on the fans RPM but also the blade design and bearing, your example is flawed. I can tell you from my own experience that a Silverstone AP141 at 1500RPM is louder then an AP121 at 1500 RPM.

They even show it on their specs:

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=257

AP121 1500 RPM 22.1 DBA

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=281&area=en

AP141 1500 RPM 30.1 DBA

I'm not here to argue about something I know for sure, I just wondered where you might have got this notion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> .... that pretty much explains it.


Don't think theres any need for that though


----------



## swiftypoison

Cleaned fans and added more tape to the LEDs


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Oh and I didn't notice you're American until now, that pretty much explains it.


Really? You're cool..

Clean rig above me though.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

Perhaps I am wrong about the noise difference between 140mm and 120mm fans, but it's slightly nonsensical to complain about "noise" created by a 1000RPM 140mm fan. None of the 140mm fans I have owned have been "loud."


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Really? You're cool..


Yeah, I know. So is my rig without sounding like a jet engine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> Perhaps I am wrong about the noise difference between 140mm and 120mm fans, but it's slightly nonsensical to complain about "noise" created by a 1000RPM 140mm fan. None of the 140mm fans I have owned have been "loud."


Nonsensical? Who are you to say that? Are you surprised that there a people buying the Define R5 because they have sensitive ears and want a case that tries to keep as much of the possible noise from escaping the case? This case series is after all described as "focuses on silent computing".
And since you said that you _can't hear_ your 140mm fans running at 2000rpm. Well good for you. In fact splendid. I on the other hand can clearly hear my NF-A14 PWM if it's running above ~700rpm. Higher than that and it's distracting my work, if it goes above ~850rpm it's annoying as hell as it's rather smooth sound starts turning into a drone and giving me a headache. So good for you that you can't hear your fans.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Yeah, I know. So is my rig without sounding like a jet engine.
> Nonsensical? Who are you to say that? Are you surprised that there a people buying the Define R5 because they have sensitive ears and want a case that tries to keep as much of the possible noise from escaping the case? This case series is after all described as "focuses on silent computing".
> And since you said that you _can't hear_ your 140mm fans running at 2000rpm. Well good for you. In fact splendid. I on the other hand can clearly hear my NF-A14 PWM if it's running above ~700rpm. Higher than that and it's distracting my work, if it goes above ~850rpm it's annoying as hell as it's rather smooth sound starts turning into a drone and giving me a headache. So good for you that you can't hear your fans.


running fans designed for 2000rpm at 700rpm sometime has motor noise.

A fan designed to max at 1000rpm will not have that issue running that slow.

Im only using a 10w ddc pump fully decoupled and its louder than my fractal fans. I cannot even hear it unles I take the side panel off and stick my ear closer.

Matter of fact any gpu fan will be louder than the 1000rpm fans included with the r5.

I understand your concern but the included fans are far from what I would call loud.

If somehow the included fans were the loudest part of your rig it would be extremely quite/near silent.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Nonsensical? Who are you to say that? Are you surprised that there a people buying the Define R5 because they have sensitive ears and want a case that tries to keep as much of the possible noise from escaping the case? This case series is after all described as "focuses on silent computing".
> And since you said that you _can't hear_ your 140mm fans running at 2000rpm. Well good for you. In fact splendid. I on the other hand can clearly hear my NF-A14 PWM if it's running above ~700rpm. Higher than that and it's distracting my work, if it goes above ~850rpm it's annoying as hell as it's rather smooth sound starts turning into a drone and giving me a headache. So good for you that you can't hear your fans.


It sounds like computers aren't up your alley. Perhaps you should consider a quieter hobby, like knitting or crochet.

But on a serious note, I'm convinced you're trolling saying a fan running above 700RPM is "distracting." If you are not trolling and a fan running at that low of a speed actually gives you a headache, perhaps you have a medical condition and should seek help immediately. It's what an American would do.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> running fans designed for 2000rpm at 700rpm sometime has motor noise. A fan designed to max at 1000rpm will not have that issue running that slow.
> 
> Matter of fact any gpu fan will be louder than the 1000rpm fans included with the r5.
> I understand your concern but the included fans are far from what I would call loud. If somehow the included fans were the loudest part of your rig it would be extremely quite/near silent.


You misinterpreted what I said. NF-A14 PWM is designed for a minimum speed of 300rpm (+-20%). It's drone doesn't manifestate itself between minimum speed <> 850rpm but between 850rpm <> 1500rpm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chessmyantidrug*
> 
> It sounds like computers aren't up your alley. Perhaps you should consider a quieter hobby, like knitting or crochet.
> 
> But on a serious note, I'm convinced you're trolling saying a fan running above 700RPM is "distracting." If you are not trolling and a fan running at that low of a speed actually gives you a headache, perhaps you have a medical condition and should seek help immediately. It's what an American would do.


Computer's are right up my alley. And thanks for the suggestion but I'm more interested in design, CAD, fluid dynamics and computer technology in general.

And no, I'm not trolling. Why would I be? It is not a medical condition to have good hearing / high sensitivity ears (E: hyperacusis is a medical condition but I don't have that fortunately). It's just happens to be that our apartment and location allows for really low ambient noise floor so I can hear even the slightest sound.
When the NF-A14's speed goes above ~700rpm it is no longer inaudible and hence it distracts me since I can hear it. Hearing the fan between the audible and droning range of the fan, just to spell it out to you if you don't figure it out yourself, between ~700rpm and ~850rpm does not give me a headache. It distracts me from my work simply because I hear it. Deal with it.
When the speed goes above ~850rpm the sounds goes from being a smooth non-headache-inducing-sound to a droning sound.
Here's the definition of 'drone' to you.


Now how about you stop arguing. This is a reality to me and not to you. Would you like me to sit/stand next to you 8 hours every single day of the year making a droning sound with my mouth?
I'm done 'talking' with you. Believe whatever you want. All I've said are facts.

P.S. And in case someone wonders, no, I don't have ADHD or any other attention related disorders.


----------



## chessmyantidrug

It sounds like you have a problem concentrating if a fan inside your case that's producing as much noise as your hard drive is giving you a headache. You should consider noise-cancelling headphones to help eliminate the noise your fans aren't making.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> -snip-


In part, I understand what you're getting at, as my ears are also very sensitive. No, it's not a medical condition. That's largely why I don't play super intensive games like BF3 anymore, and why I quite playing BF4 almost before I started; my 280X is super loud and I have to dial back the clocks all the time. Compared to the noise in my rig with @ 1500 rpm and 280X > 50% rpm, this is all making a big deal out of nothing. It's not a drone; it's a satanic shriek, guaranteed to cause hearing loss upon prolonged exposure.

I also don't understand why you seem to make a (comparatively) big deal out of the type of noise emitted by the A14. I know someone with an air-cooled rig who has 2 A14s, and they are real quiet throughout their entire RPM range (god, WHY doesn't the Mini R2 take 140mm fans?!?!). I know exactly what you are referring to as a "drone"; my F12s have a lot of this at full speed, since they are probably (at full RPM) the loudest fans that Noctua has to offer. However, this doesn't bother me (ok, it does, but not nearly as much as my 280X), although I know that it might not be the same for you; all I can say is that I'd take the "drone" of Noctua fans over the "buzz" and "whine" of my Cougar Turbines or "hollow roar" of Silent Series R2 120mm/140mm any day. When you go up the RPM range, it's only natural for these sounds to manifest and unless we live in an ideal world (which we don't), we have to live with these. Noctua's already taken a step towards making the sound a bit more pleasant. Unfortunately, fan noise is very subjective, and people with sensitive ears are often at the mercy of manufacturers that seem to employ deaf fan designers and testers, all the while proclaiming that their products are "silent". I'm looking at you, Fractal Design, with those garbage Silent Series R2 fans.

I normally only use Gigabyte SIV for fan control and the Performance and Full Speed settings are noticeably different from Standard and Quiet. There's a notable drone in the upper half of the spectrum.

I'd poke around and see if you can get a hold of other A14s; if they don't sound the same way, yours might have a problem.

If they sound the same...well, you get the idea.

Noise-cancelling headphones would be a start; I don't have any, but noise-isolating headphones are good enough for me. You could also look towards another case (if the A05 is a personal preference, then so be it, but know that it's not making it any easier for you if you're trying to silence your rig since there's not a lot of room and direct path for airflow) that doesn't rely on a single 140mm for intake all whilst forcing air through a radiator.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> In part, I understand what you're getting at, as my ears are also very sensitive. No, it's not a medical condition. That's largely why I don't play super intensive games like BF3 anymore, and why I quite playing BF4 almost before I started; my 280X is super loud and I have to dial back the clocks all the time. Compared to the noise in my rig with @ 1500 rpm and 280X > 50% rpm, this is all making a big deal out of nothing. It's not a drone; it's a satanic shriek, guaranteed to cause hearing loss upon prolonged exposure.
> 
> *I also don't understand why you seem to make a (comparatively) big deal out of the type of noise emitted by the A14.* I know someone with an air-cooled rig who has 2 A14s, and they are real quiet throughout their entire RPM range (god, WHY doesn't the Mini R2 take 140mm fans?!?!). I know exactly what you are referring to as a "drone"; my F12s have a lot of this at full speed, since they are probably (at full RPM) the loudest fans that Noctua has to offer. However, this doesn't bother me (ok, it does, but not nearly as much as my 280X), although I know that it might not be the same for you; all I can say is that I'd take the "drone" of Noctua fans over the "buzz" and "whine" of my Cougar Turbines or "hollow roar" of Silent Series R2 120mm/140mm any day. *When you go up the RPM range, it's only natural for these sounds to manifest and unless we live in an ideal world (which we don't), we have to live with these. Noctua's already taken a step towards making the sound a bit more pleasant.* Unfortunately, *fan noise is very subjective*, and people with sensitive ears are often at the mercy of manufacturers that seem to employ deaf fan designers and testers, all the while proclaiming that their products are "silent". I'm looking at you, Fractal Design, with those garbage Silent Series R2 fans.
> 
> I normally only use Gigabyte SIV for fan control and the Performance and Full Speed settings are noticeably different from Standard and Quiet. There's a notable drone in the upper half of the spectrum.
> 
> *I'd poke around and see if you can get a hold of other A14s; if they don't sound the same way, yours might have a problem.*
> 
> If they sound the same...well, you get the idea.
> 
> *Noise-cancelling headphones would be a start; I don't have any, but noise-isolating headphones are good enough for me.
> 
> You could also look towards another case (if the A05 is a personal preference, then so be it, but know that it's not making it any easier for you if you're trying to silence your rig since there's not a lot of room and direct path for airflow) that doesn't rely on a single 140mm for intake all whilst forcing air through a radiator.*


Just woke up so apologies for typos. I'll bold the text I'm replying to and each line is a different section of text bolded.

It's the best example I have. And because someone is calling me a troll or in other words a liar. I don't lie.

Yes, I know that. I know that perfectly well. Also I'd say Noctua has taken a slight step backward. I haven't personally heard NF-A15 PWM but by looking at the acoustic analysis picture from SPCR the A15 looks smoother than A14 but still the P14 is superior. I somewhat regret buying the A14 but it's still a good fan at the slow speeds. You can take a look here if you wish, pages 1-3 and at the bottom of each page http://www.silentpcreview.com/140mm_Fan_Roundup1
I had a NF-P14 FLX few years ago and I liked that, came with my D14 and I sold that along with it.

Yeah, it is subjective.

I'm gonna poke around if I could find a NF-P14 PWM from somewhere. NF-P14 FLX is still readily available here in Finland despite it's EOL status but I prefer PWM control. Otherwise I'll go and purchase the NF-A15 PWM and try my luck with that.

And this last one I'm gonna split in two.
I've got three good pairs of headphones and I use them when I need to and according to my current needs but can't use them all the time and occasionally they just end up laying on the desk because they're slightly too big for me to keep them around my neck. And me preferring over the ear headphones doesn't make that easier







#firstworldproblems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I'll be getting the Define R5 on monday


So yes, I'm already dealing with that.
The A05N was a personal preference four years ago but priorities and needs change over time. Also I'd just like to clarify that the current airflow in to the case is provided by the NF-A14 on the top which feeds cool air to my graphics card (no rad) and by a 120mm Slip Stream at the front of the case which blows through the HDD cage (not fully populated and isn't that restrictive). Air flow out of the case is handled by another 120mm Slip Stream.
I wouldn't recommend these Slip Stream fans if they're going to end up in a place where there's a honeycomb mesh. The fan slots on the A05N are completely open so they work well in this scenario.


----------



## KoNLaR

Brand new setup and some better pictures then I posted earlier, specs can be found here







https://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> Brand new setup and some better pictures then I posted earlier, specs can be found here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/wsZ8TW


I knew there was something familiar about the name "konlar" when I saw that build... who would've known lol


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> I knew there was something familiar about the name "konlar" when I saw that build... who would've known lol


You recognize me from on here or from somewhere else? Cant say I know you tho, no offense


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> You recognize me from on here or from somewhere else? Cant say I know you tho, no offense


i'm on PCPP too with the same name...just not a participant in its forums which I consider to be inferior to OCN and LTT


----------



## rwpritchett

Is Fractal Design decent when it comes to warranty? I recently transplanted my HTPC/Media-Server to a Node 605. After getting it up and running and transferring all my data, I found that the front card reader constantly connects and disconnects until Windows reports a USB device error.

I'm really not wanting to tear apart the case to send the entire thing back. I was wondering if FD would send a replacement card reader instead?

Anybody have any FD support experience to share?


----------



## K4IKEN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwpritchett*
> 
> Is Fractal Design decent when it comes to warranty?


Absolute best in the business. They'll take care of that real quick.


----------



## Gameaholic

Does anyone know if the new R5 is compatible with a dual 180 radiator like this one?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/180mm-series/ek-coolstream-we-360-dual.html


I'm planning a build and I'd like to mount this rad in the top with two silverstone 180mm air penetrator fans:

http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=258


My concern is that the Air Penetrator Fans are 32mm thick instead of 25mm thick. Also the EK rad is 35mm. So is there 67mm between the top of the case and top motherboard mounts on the R5?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gameaholic*
> 
> Does anyone know if the new R5 is compatible with a dual 180 radiator like this one?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/radiators/180mm-series/ek-coolstream-we-360-dual.html
> 
> 
> I'm planning a build and I'd like to mount this rad in the top with two silverstone 180mm air penetrator fans:
> 
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=258
> 
> 
> My concern is that the Air Penetrator Fans are 32mm thick instead of 25mm thick. Also the EK rad is 35mm. So is there 67mm between the top of the case and top motherboard mounts on the R5?


Dual 140 is the maximum I believe.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Dual 140 is the maximum I believe.


yea a 140 x2 or x3 will only fit if its very thin. Noway a 180 is going in.

My 120mm x3 was hitting my ram and my rad is only 38mm thick ek coolstream pe.

I had to take the top heatsinks off my tridents.

Potato quality.


----------



## KoNLaR

New pic, fixed the GPU Sag!


----------



## razor5cl

Does anyone know if the Noctua NH-D15 will fit in my Arc Mini R2? In terms of height it seems it will fit but I'm worried about PCIe slots, as some reports say that with an mATX setup the cooler encroaches on the first PCIe slot and currently my mobo only has one PCIe slot, so if this is the case I'd have to get a new mobo(I was planning on getting a new one anyway to better match my colour scheme and allow OCing, but if the D15 fits then I could get a new cooler first.)


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *razor5cl*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Noctua NH-D15 will fit in my Arc Mini R2? In terms of height it seems it will fit but I'm worried about PCIe slots, as some reports say that with an mATX setup the cooler encroaches on the first PCIe slot and currently my mobo only has one PCIe slot, so if this is the case I'd have to get a new mobo(I was planning on getting a new one anyway to better match my colour scheme and allow OCing, but if the D15 fits then I could get a new cooler first.)


Whether or not the NH-D15 interferes with your motherboards first PCI-e slot doesn't depend on the case.

Noctua - NH-D15 motherboard compatibility


----------



## razor5cl

Ah, OK, thanks for clarifying. Now that I think about it it seems I was a little absent-minded about that.


----------



## swiftypoison

Hey guys,

I picked up a real cheap z87 Classified on impulse buy. I have an R4 and was wondering if anyone has been able to fit this board on a R4? Its a eATX board. From the looks of it, ill just partially cover the cable holes.
Comments?


----------



## lagittaja

Z87 Classified is 7mm wider than Maximus V Formula. So yeah.. I'd say it fits since that Formula fits, it'll just go over the cable routing holes.
http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/3740_20#post_17930122


----------



## swiftypoison

Thanks! I am guessing that it would be the same for a R5?


----------



## khemist

Just got my windowed panel for the White r5, will stick a pic up later.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swiftypoison*
> 
> Thanks! I am guessing that it would be the same for a R5?


Define R5 motherboard tray is different, the section with cable routing holes is angled upwards hence fitting a larger than ATX sized board is difficult. I think I've seen at least one user here who has done that but don't remember who and what motherboard he/she had.
Maybe a 10-10.2" wide motherboard will fit but X99-E WS at 10.5" is probably too wide :/


----------



## tateep

Just got an email about a new Fractal Design Define S available in June. http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-s

Non-windowed $79.99
Windowed $89.99


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tateep*
> 
> Just got an email about a new Fractal Design Define S available in June. http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-s
> 
> Non-windowed $79.99
> Windowed $89.99


Real nice improvements over the r5, like the larger window a lot.


----------



## contay

@tateep, @koniu777

Damn you guys were faster than me to post great news for FD fans








That looks really tempting. I might go from R4 to S.


----------



## gdubc

Yep, I'm really liking that new case also. I think it's time for the ol' r4 to be put on the market.


----------



## Wirerat

Check out the Fractal Design S






Its simluar to an R5 without the drive bays or 5.25 bays. More water cooling type mounts.


----------



## K4IKEN

Welp.. I think FD has just made the ideal, affordable water cooling case.


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K4IKEN*
> 
> Welp.. I think FD has just made the ideal, affordable water cooling case.


Couldn't agree more!


----------



## schgrcube

Just got my Define R5 window, it really is a beautiful and well built case!

But one thing that kind of annoys me (I'm probably just weird) is all the white accent pieces for the SSD mount, drive trays, etc. Since the white one has all black for those pieces, I wonder if anyone would want to trade? If there is a better spot I should ask, please let me know. I just joined here.


----------



## Jonasckx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schgrcube*
> 
> Just got my Define R5 window, it really is a beautiful and well built case!
> 
> But one thing that kind of annoys me (I'm probably just weird) is all the white accent pieces for the SSD mount, drive trays, etc. Since the white one has all black for those pieces, I wonder if anyone would want to trade? If there is a better spot I should ask, please let me know. I just joined here.


You are not the only weird one







, it annoys me too, I'm buying the R5 later this week to start a new build, love the looks from this case but the white pieces just don't fit for me.
I'm thinking about giving them some black plastidip, maybe that solves our 'problem'


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schgrcube*
> 
> Just got my Define R5 window, it really is a beautiful and well built case!
> 
> But one thing that kind of annoys me (I'm probably just weird) is all the white accent pieces for the SSD mount, drive trays, etc. Since the white one has all black for those pieces, I wonder if anyone would want to trade? If there is a better spot I should ask, please let me know. I just joined here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonasckx*
> 
> You are not the only weird one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it annoys me too, I'm buying the R5 later this week to start a new build, love the looks from this case but the white pieces just don't fit for me.
> I'm thinking about giving them some black plastidip, maybe that solves our 'problem'


Just spray paint them, that's what I did.


----------



## KoNLaR

Dont understand why they removed some new features from the R5 on the new S, for example the filter that covered the whole bottom and was removable from the front is now only covering PSU and 1x 140mm fan slot and removable from the back.

Also something that makes even less sense is they went back to the R4 side panel with thumb screws instead of the click-release on the R5.

Other than that, will be looking to buy this case when it comes out in about a month here in Norway, will be re-doing my custom loop and finally proper mounting for my rads and reservoir


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> Dont understand why they removed some new features from the R5 on the new S, for example the filter that covered the whole bottom and was removable from the front is now only covering PSU and 1x 140mm fan slot and removable from the back.
> 
> Also something that makes even less sense is they went back to the R4 side panel with thumb screws instead of the click-release on the R5.
> 
> Other than that, will be looking to buy this case when it comes out in about a month here in Norway, will be re-doing my custom loop and finally proper mounting for my rads and reservoir


that "S" is also going to be a cheaper than the R5. So cost might have driven a few changes.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> that "S" is also going to be a cheaper than the R5. So cost might have driven a few changes.


I would pay 2 more dollars for those features, dont see how those are expensive features to make, and the R5 is just as expensive as the R4 was when it was released.

Dont think its the cost, could be a different team developed the S while the R5 was also developed the same time. But should be an easy fix to implent, guess they just got lazy.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> I would pay 2 more dollars for those features, dont see how those are expensive features to make, and the R5 is just as expensive as the R4 was when it was released.
> 
> Dont think its the cost, could be a different team developed the S while the R5 was also developed the same time. But should be an easy fix to implent, guess they just got lazy.


the define S is going to retail at US $79.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Looking for the link the define S is going to retail at $80.


I was talking about the R5 price being the same as the R4 when that was released not the S price, but what I mean is I dont think those features would cost any extras to make, anyways I would pay a bit more for them as it makes everything more convient. Its like they took a step forward with the R5, and decided to take a step back again with the S in terms of those small things.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> I was talking about the R5 price being the same as the R4 when that was released not the S price, but what I mean is I dont think those features would cost any extras to make, anyways I would pay a bit more for them as it makes everything more convient. Its like they took a step forward with the R5, and decided to take a step back again with the S in terms of those small things.


i paid $125 for my windowed R5 and i removed all but one of the drive bays to water cool.

A cheaper alternative that didnt come with those bays would have been welcome to me.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> i paid $125 for my windowed R5 and i removed all but one of the drive bays to water cool.
> 
> A cheaper alternative that didnt come with those bays would have been welcome to me.


You are probably paying the extras for the filter in the front, optical bays and harddrive bays.

Still dont see what point you are trying to make, I do not see a filter removable from the front (just turn it and make it a little longer and some more holes for a 2nd 140mm fan slot) And the door mechaniscm. I would pay 10 more dollars for it atleast, its not that big of a deal, but its something people wanted to change with the R4 to the R5, and dont see why they should take a step back.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> You are probably paying the extras for the filter in the front, optical bays and harddrive bays.
> 
> Still dont see what point you are trying to make, I do not see a filter removable from the front (just turn it and make it a little longer and some more holes for a 2nd 140mm fan slot) And the door mechaniscm. I would pay 10 more dollars for it atleast, its not that big of a deal, but its something people wanted to change with the R4 to the R5, and dont see why they should take a step back.


my point is its not at the same price point as the R5. So missing features is expected.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> my point is its not at the same price point as the R5. So missing features is expected.


yes thats the features with the optical and harddrive bays, than my point is I do not see the door + filter as expensive features so I would of liked them added. I would also be willing to pay 5-10 dollar more just for it even tho i see it as not really expensive features


----------



## Sheira

Ooh, looks like I found my new case! I wonder if its gonna be weird going from my gigantic ATCS 840 to small-ish R5.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheira*
> 
> Ooh, looks like I found my new case! I wonder if its gonna be weird going from my gigantic ATCS 840 to small-ish R5.


I feel like a big tower is way overkill than needed, R5 fits everything you could ask for and possibly some more









To be honest, I would love to do an ITX build, because I feel like there is no need for anything bigger


----------



## schgrcube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Just spray paint them, that's what I did.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jonasckx*
> 
> You are not the only weird one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it annoys me too, I'm buying the R5 later this week to start a new build, love the looks from this case but the white pieces just don't fit for me.
> I'm thinking about giving them some black plastidip, maybe that solves our 'problem'


I would paint them, but I would rather just wait and see if any white case owners surface that feel the same way. I'm not in a huge rush, and my OCD really calls for this to be a solid match. Like I said, I might be weird.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schgrcube*
> 
> I would paint them, but I would rather just wait and see if any white case owners surface that feel the same way. I'm not in a huge rush, and my OCD really calls for this to be a solid match. Like I said, I might be weird.


your not the only one with ocd.

I replaced my fractel white pcie covers with some red mesh pcie covers. I originally planned to paint them.


----------



## KoNLaR

I too just purchased some red PCI covers instead of paiting them. Did not cost much more than a spraybox would and did not have to do any labor which is great as well


----------



## Aventadoor

So I got myself a Fractal Design Define D5 on friday with 4 noctua fans and a fan controller, but im not exactly happy with the noise.
I get around 25dB where I sit and around 33dB closer to the PC.

Currently my config is:
Corsair H100i with 2 noctua's as exhaust in the top of the case
2 Noctua's in the front as intake
1 Fractal fan in the bottom as intake
1 Fractal fan in the rear as exhaust

Any tips to get the noise lower?


----------



## lagittaja

With your 580's I don't know what would be the best solution to keep them cool. What Noctua's? NF-F12's? A14's? How are you controlling your fans? Motherboard? Integrated fan controller? Running full tilt? Also a picture would be good.
The more fans you have the louder it will be. And having the H100i at the top doesn't make your computer quieter. Hence I'd try this and just see what happens:
Keep the Fractal's like they are, move the H100i to the front along with it's Noctua's as intake and seal the top.


----------



## Aventadoor

I use only 1 580.
Its the NF-F12's yes, and I run all fans with a NZXT Sentry mix 2 controller at lowest settings.

It seems like most of the noise is coming from the h100i indeed, so closing the top would probably make much difference.
If I dont remember wrong I read somewhere that as soon as you opened the top on the D5, its not silent anymore


----------



## lagittaja

Okay, if it's just a single 580 then it's not big of a problem








This might be a good read for you, SilentPCReview didn't do a proper review of the Define R5 but they did review it as their Quiet ATX Gamer rig. Page 3 shows the build assembled and page 4 has the numbers. Including their experiment adding a fan to the bottom or the front (along with stock GP14's where they were).
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1422-page3.html

Yeah. The more holes a case has the easier it is for the noise to find it's way out of the case. Opening up the top uncovers a huge surface area. From the perspective of containing the noise it's especially a problem since you have a 240 rad which doesn't "fill" the whole space which is uncovered when you remove the two moduvents to mount your H100i. Meaning there's holes on the top which aren't covered by the radiator hence leaving a direct route for noise to escape.

Depending on how much heat your 3570K dumps in to the case with the H100i in the front as intake, you might even get away without the bottom intake.
At least SPCR didn't have much luck with their build adding a intake fan to the bottom. Couple degrees drop while adding second intake to front -> GPU temp dropped 6 degrees. Although they didn't have a rad at the front but still..

After you've tried moving the H100i to the front and sealed the top. Fire up a game or whatever you prefer for load temps and see what the GPU temps are like. Then disconnect or stop the bottom fan from spinning and see how much the temperatures will increase while still having a load on the GPU.


----------



## Aventadoor

I was thinking that I should do a push/pull config with the H100i in front with the 4 noctua F-12s to get more air for the GPU.

At the moment my PC get close to 95c when running prime95 blend tests and all fans at full. But thats fine by me. Around 70-80c when gaming a very demanding game.


----------



## lagittaja

I assume you mean CPU temperatures? Have you delidded your 3570K? If not then seeing 95C in P95 doesn't surprise me.

If you're going to run your F12's at slow speed, read like well under 1000rpm or something like that, then push/pull would benefit you, if med to high speeds then push/pull doesn't do you much with such a thin radiator.

For example KitGuru's review of the H100i. They had Corsair SP120's in both flavors, the high perf and quiet editions. According to their testing methodology they kept the room temp at 18C during all testing.
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/corsair-h100-h100i-performance-comparison-with-sp120-fans/4/
Since you have NF-F12's with max speed of 1500rpm I'm gonna quote the Quiet edition results from them since those fans run at 1450rpm when full tilt.
With i7-3770K @ 4.7Ghz / 1.3V, going from 2x SP120 Quiet -> 4x SP120 Quiet yields 2C drop to CPU temperature.

Here's another H100i review from a site I haven't come across before. They had two H100i samples so they did push vs push/pull comparison.
http://skratchwizpc.net/reviews/corsair-h100i-corsair-link-test-results/
They also had an i7-3770K but @ 4.5Ghz / 1.3V.
Going from stock 2x fans at Quiet preset -> stock 4x fans at Quiet preset = Delta -3.5C
Going from stock 2x fans at balanced -> stock 4x fans at balanced = Delta -2.8C

I don't know what the fan speeds are for the stock fans at the different presets but I'd make a wild guess that the SP120L's the H100i comes with run at around 900-1100rpm at the quiet preset considering it's 2700rpm max fan compared to the retail SP120 high perf which is 2350rpm max and starts at 4V.
So even at the quiet preset the gain is only 3½ degrees celcius. Then consider these are i7 temps, Hyper Threading adds a measurable amount of heat and you "only" have an i5.

But go ahead and see what happens with push vs push/pull at the front with CPU and GPU temps. The pull fans would be relatively easy to mount and then remove if you come to a conclusion that you don't need them.


----------



## Aventadoor

Yes I have not delidded my CPU.

I just tried mounting the radiator in front, but I dident actually notice any difference in sound. If anything its still as "noisy"...
Its not very easy to localize the source but it seems like the GPU and H100i pump makes the most noise, or is that causes the deeper more noticeable noise.


----------



## sigilens

I have push pull on mine h100i with 4 Noctua NF-A12 PWM, running arround 800 rpm and my temps don't go higher than 60c .i7 [email protected]


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> Yes I have not delidded my CPU.
> 
> I just tried mounting the radiator in front, but I dident actually notice any difference in sound. If anything its still as "noisy"...
> Its not very easy to localize the source but it seems like the GPU and H100i pump makes the most noise, or is that causes the deeper more noticeable noise.


It's probably your H100i pump. A pump running at 2000rpm bolted straight to your motherboard which is securely mounted to the case.. It's not gonna be silent. It might not be noisy itself but strap it on to something and then the vibrations it makes..

And don't forget about your power supply. If it's the TX750 V1 then it's fans minimum speed is 1100rpm and around 1300rpm at half load. If it's V2 then it's min speed and half load speed are ~1240rpm.


----------



## Aventadoor

I got a Evga SuperNova 850W G2 now.

It seems like its the combination with pump, radiator and fans creating sound bcuz of the dens fins on the radiator.
If I could lower the fan speed even more, it would be good, but I cant with the NZXT...


----------



## KoNLaR

H100i pump can be a bit noisy, I would just mount it at the front and put the moduvents back if you do not need anything there, and aslong you dont need more than 3x HDDs then shouldnt be an issue to have the radiator in the front. Would also swap out the PSU for a passive one which only spin the fan when under a lot of load.

In my system only thing I can hear is the pump + HDD with my Fractal R4, but its not really noisy. Will upgrade to Fractal Define S tho when its available for better watercooling support


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> H100i pump can be a bit noisy, I would just mount it at the front and put the moduvents back if you do not need anything there, and aslong you dont need more than 3x HDDs then shouldnt be an issue to have the radiator in the front. Would also swap out the PSU for a passive one which only spin the fan when under a lot of load.
> 
> In my system only thing I can hear is the pump + HDD with my Fractal R4, but its not really noisy. Will upgrade to Fractal Define S tho when its available for better watercooling support


if the gpu is not too long a 240/280 rad could fit up front and keep all the drive bays. The image below shows a thick rad there. Something like h100 would fit easy with fans on the filter side.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aventadoor*
> 
> I got a Evga SuperNova 850W G2 now.
> 
> It seems like its the combination with pump, radiator and fans creating sound bcuz of the dens fins on the radiator.
> If I could lower the fan speed even more, it would be good, but I cant with the NZXT...












You should update your rig specs









That's a semi passive power supply like I have so yeah, not an issue









One thing to ask though is why are you not running the NF-F12's from the motherboard and have them controlled by the CPU temperature? Since with PWM control they can run as low as 300rpm (+-20% or 240-360rpm).
That would be the first thing I would do in your quest of making your rig quieter.

On voltage control the NF-F12 runs a little over 700rpm at 5V. It starts at 5.5V. As far as I can tell, the Sentry thingydoodler you have is an expensive voltage controller with a range of 5-12V.
You could have achieved the same results using couple of splitters on the Define R5 integrated controller since the lo/mid/hi correspond to 5/7/12 volts.
Or by using what you already have, your motherboard has a single CPU_FAN header and your NF-F12's came with 4-pin PWM Y-cables.
You can daisy chain all of them from the single CPU_FAN header you have. Not a pretty solution but you can hide it behind the motherboard tray.

And if you wonder whether you can run four F12's from a single header, consider this, a single NF-F12 only draws 0.05A, hence four of them would draw 0.2A while most motherboards should handle at least 0.5A, most should be 1A. I skimmed through the manual of your motherboard but couldn't find any info regarding how much the fan headers can handle. But with a MAX draw of 0.2A you're not gonna damage ANYTHING.


----------



## KoNLaR

If your motherboard supports PWM you can control them in the Bios or with software like I am doing with my Maximus VII Z97 Hero, have them in a passive mode where they do not spin until like 60 degrees which does not happen a lot with my custom loop









@Wirerat

Seems like that picture you only have 3x2 Bays instead of the orignal 5x1 and 3x1. Also there would be no space for a Res/pump with this config unless you have it in the optical bay with combo or mount it next to the rear fan. But looks like 5x1 would fit there anyways, but personally I would never need that many discs and I do not think most average gamers will.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> @Wirerat
> 
> Seems like that picture you only have 3x2 Bays instead of the orignal 5x1 and 3x1. Also there would be no space for a Res/pump with this config unless you have it in the optical bay with combo or mount it next to the rear fan. But looks like 5x1 would fit there anyways, but personally I would never need that many discs and I do not think most average gamers will.


Agree with everything you said. I just like to let people have the info. Sometimes people think they want all the bays left in.

Also the pump and res could easily fit above the psu on the mesh area thats right beside the pcie slot covers. Its actually really wide there.


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah, just install Speedfan. There's plenty of guides out there. Honestly it's quite easy to setup and you'll have your fans setup to act just the way you want them. Like KoNLaR said, you can have your fans semipassive, not run at all until a certain treshold is met.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Agree with everything you said. I just like to let people have the info. Sometimes people want all the bays left in.
> 
> Also the pump and res could easily fit above the psu on the mesh area thats right beside the pcie slot covers. Its actually really wide there.


Basiclly Fractal R5 = Those who need optical bays and more disc bays and I believe it has more sound dampening foam than the Fractal S.

Fractal S = Do not need optical/lots of disc drives, better watercooling support with the whole front and top with lots of space + reservoir mounting support and pump screw holes in the bottom and a bigger window to show off everything. And almost forgot, its more affordable than any other case with this features dedicated for watercooling. Some might argue with the h440, but thats a ***** to mount a Res in, more expensive and less sound proof.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> Basiclly Fractal R5 = Those who need optical bays and more disc bays and I believe it has more sound dampening foam than the Fractal S.
> 
> Fractal S = Do not need optical/lots of disc drives, better watercooling support with the whole front and top with lots of space + reservoir mounting support and pump screw holes in the bottom and a bigger window to show off everything.


yea, i only needed room for 1 HDD and im certain I could suspend it out of sight on the "s". Unfortunately, the "s" was not available two months ago.

Other than the slightly larger window on the S. The exterior looks the same to me. I wonder if the side panels are the same fit.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yea, i only needed room for 1 HDD and im certain I could suspend it out of sight on the "s". Unfortunately, the "s" was not available two months ago.
> 
> Other than the slightly larger window on the S. The exterior looks the same to me. I wonder if the side panels are the same fit.


I think tinytomlogan from OC3D.net tried it on his video, but did not fit. Dont quote me on it tho as I dont remember exactly.


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yea, i only needed room for 1 HDD and im certain I could suspend it out of sight on the "s". Unfortunately, the "s" was not available two months ago.
> 
> Other than the slightly larger window on the S. The exterior looks the same to me. I wonder if the side panels are the same fit.


the side panels of the R5 and Define S are not compatible.


----------



## alexelemental

Hello I saw Jayztwocents video about his 12 fan setup on his pc and got me wondering if you could fill all the 120mm slots in the Midi R2 with 30mm rads and one fan each. Like a 360mm pull on the top, 240 push in the front, 120 push in the bottom and 120 pull in the back. To set them all with high pressure fans but at low rpm 800-ish maybe for super quiet yet good cooling performance. Does anyone think/know it would all fit?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## babychimz

Hi everyone! I'm looking to change my casing to the R5. However, my current customer sleeved cables is pretty short and i'm hoping i don't need to get extensions/new ones if possible.

24pin ATX - 500mm
8pin CPU - 550mm
6+2pin PCIE - 500mm

Does anyone know if these cables are long enough from my PSU (Seasonic P760w) to the motherboard and GPU? Especially concerned with the 8pin CPU.

Really hope someone could enlighten me? If the lengths are sufficient, i'll probably take the plunge and hoot it!









Thanks in advance!


----------



## lagittaja

The 8pin is gonna fall short I'm afraid. The other's, well I can't say for certain but I'd say they're long enough.
Do you no longer have the stock cables or did you use them while sleeving?
I have a Seasonic P660W and use it's stock cables. The 8pin is 650mm and PCI-e / ATX are 600mm long.
Here's my cable work. Click for a larger picture.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> A tad under exposed but on top there's not much cables and all go straight to the back. There's rear and hs fan cables and also the 8pin which wouldn't even be visible considering the angle..
> 
> le spaghetti, was a bit tired at this point so whatever. Out of sight, out of mind.


8pin is pretty much perfect length, it comes straight from the PSU and goes pretty much straight to the 8pin at the motherboard not including that trip it makes towards the rear of the case before making a 90 bend and heading up..
The route I took those PCI-e power cables though is longer than necessary. With your shorter cables you can run them behind the motherboard like I have and then have them come back from where I have the SATA cables coming from. Much shorter route


----------



## babychimz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> The 8pin is gonna fall short I'm afraid. The other's, well I can't say for certain but I'd say they're long enough.
> Do you no longer have the stock cables or did you use them while sleeving?
> I have a Seasonic P660W and use it's stock cables. The 8pin is 650mm and PCI-e / ATX are 600mm long.
> Here's my cable work. Click for a larger picture.
> 8pin is pretty much perfect length, it comes straight from the PSU and goes pretty much straight to the 8pin at the motherboard not including that trip it makes towards the rear of the case before making a 90 bend and heading up..
> The route I took those PCI-e power cables though is longer than necessary. With your shorter cables you can run them behind the motherboard like I have and then have them come back from where I have the SATA cables coming from. Much shorter route


Thanks Lagittaja for the fast reply! Yea it looks like the 8pin wont be long enough. Though i'm wondering what if i go diagonally up instead, will it somehow be sufficient? :/ i do have my stock cables too. But as the sleeved ones i got is white sleeved, would find it weird to see a stock black cable sticking out from PSU side at least. The others seem fine indeed. Oh well..


----------



## lagittaja

Well, I went ahead and measured it. Freed the 8pin from the SSD mount, pulled the cable straight and measured the slack. Roughly 110mm..
So with this new information, I'd say it's a tight squeeze







You'll probably want to leave that left SSD mount empty and even remove the bracket to have the 8pin run as close to the motherboard tray as possible.

I'd go for it if I were you. It's a wonderful case and I wouldn't let a 8pin cable hold me from it. If it won't reach then it won't. Simple as that. Then you'll either have to use the stock cable or make a new cable.

P.S. Good thing I didn't have the right side of the case against the wall, easy to access the spaghetti compartment.

E:
Also regarding the PSU side of the 8pin, I for the life of me can't remember on which connector I have the 8pin plugged.
Since were talking millimeters here it's probably gonna matter whether you have the power supply fan
a) facing upward and the 8pin connected to the only CPU/PCI-e connector on the top row
b) facing down and the 8pin connected to the CPU/PCI-e connector which is next to the second M/B connector on the bottom row.

I'll go and take a peek inside..

E2: You're good, go ahead and order the case if this was your primary concern holding you back?
I've connected the 8pin to the bottom row of the connectors and next to the second motherboard connector and I have the fan facing updwards.. Hence you're good.
If I'd have the 8pin connected to the top row only CPU/PCI-e it would mean at least 5cm more reach for the 8pin











The reason why I've done so is that I've worked my way with the cables from the components to the power supply, not the other way around which is probably what most people do. The freedom with modular cables is so nice








And since I've connected the motherboard cables first I must have connected it next to the motherboard connectors just because...reasons. Maybe for the fact that they would be nice and close and easy to tie together with the included strap..


----------



## babychimz

Woo ok thanks lagittaja! You have been most helpful! Guess i just to spend more effort cable managing to make it sweet. Shall take the plunge then!


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Hi everyone, i just wanted to stop by and ask those who have the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 what they thought of their case? Hows the airflow with this case?


----------



## JackCY

Remove grills, don't use filters, remove drive cages and all the cases are pretty much equal. It's a box, how much different can the airflow really be from other boxes, not much. The biggest culprits are the stupid metal grills and filters and other obstructions of intake and outtake.


----------



## lagittaja

Indeed but I wouldn't remove filters unless you want dust inside your computer. I plan on cutting the stupid honeycomb grill from the rear fan slot on my Define R5 and adding a wire grill.
Puget Systems has a great article on this. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
A traditional honeycomb grill is a 9% decrease to airflow on the exhaust side (8% on intake). Noise wise they measured an 2.5 dBA (35.5->38 or 7%) increase on low fan speed and 3dBA (55->58 or 5.5%) increase on high fan speed.
A simple wire grill on exhaust side decreased airflow by 3-4% on exhaust side (2% on intake). Noise wise they measured a increase of ½ dBA on low fan speed and .8 dbA increase on high fan speed.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Indeed but I wouldn't remove filters unless you want dust inside your computer. *I plan on cutting the stupid honeycomb grill from the rear fan slot on my Define R5 and adding a wire grill*.
> Puget Systems has a great article on this. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
> A traditional honeycomb grill is a 9% decrease to airflow on the exhaust side (8% on intake). Noise wise they measured an 2.5 dBA (35.5->38 or 7%) increase on low fan speed and 3dBA (55->58 or 5.5%) increase on high fan speed.
> A simple wire grill on exhaust side decreased airflow by 3-4% on exhaust side (2% on intake). Noise wise they measured a increase of ½ dBA on low fan speed and .8 dbA increase on high fan speed.


Not sure what you will gain doing so. I am using one of fractals new venturi 140mm Fans and it is pushing a ton of air through there without any modification. its only a 1200RPM fan at max. I cannot hear any noise from the air passing through there unless I position my ear behind the case.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Not sure what you will gain doing so. I am using one of fractals new venturi 140mm Fans and it is pushing a ton of air through there without any modification. its only a 1200RPM fan at max. I cannot hear any noise from the air passing through there unless I position my ear behind the case.


Grills restrict airflow. And they induce noise. Honeycomb pattern is among the ones to be avoided. See for yourself, just what Puget's testing shows. Go ahead and test it yourself if you think what their testing shows is false. Or did you even read the article?. Oh wait you probably don't even care. What you already have is already quiet to you. Why even comment?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Grills restrict airflow. And they induce noise. Honeycomb pattern is among the ones to be avoided. See for yourself, just what Puget's testing shows. *Go ahead and test it yourself if you think what their testing shows is false. Or did you even read the article?. Oh wait you probably don't even care. What you already have is already quiet to you.*


Because your were talking about cutting up the back of the case. I think buying into a quality 140mm exhaust fan can do the job without all that.

You want to do that to your case based on the performance of Antec Tricool fans then go ahead. I see that the Tricool lost a max of 9% cfm on the honeycomb. A better static pressure fan would loose less. Also it gained 5.5% or 3db of sound at the honeycomb. Again a quieter fan would gain less.

Its not a terrible idea but There are fans out today that overcome the mesh design of a case without being loud.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Why even comment?


seriously? Just sharing my experience so People considering a fratcal case dont think they have to chop out all the fan mesh to have a quiet rig with good airflow.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Because your were talking about cutting up the back of the case. I think buying into a quality 140mm exhaust fan can do the job without all that.
> 
> You want to do that to your case based on the performance of Antec Tricool fans then go ahead. I see that the Tricool lost a max of 9% cfm on the honeycomb. A better static pressure fan would loose less. Also it gained 5.5% or 3db of sound at the honeycomb. Again a quieter fan would gain less.
> 
> Its not a terrible idea but There are fans out today that overcome the mesh design of a case without being loud.
> seriously? Just sharing my experience so People considering a fratcal case dont think they have to chop out all the fan mesh to have a quiet rig with good airflow.


Oh dear lord you make my head hurt. Do you even understand anything about fluid dynamics? Or even blade geometry, how the pitch of the blade or the area of the blade affects a fans performance in different scenarios?
All fans suffer from grills, some more, some less. That HF-14 you linked is gonna suffer heck of a lot more from a honeycomb grill on it's exhaust side than the Tri-Cool does. Noise wise you can't do much. Sure you could slap variating blade shapes on a fan to break up the tonality (read AP123) to different spectrums for a more pleasant broadband noise but that more useful on the intake side, like wise the AP123 I mentioned is targeted for intake duties..

And since you brought up getting "better" fans.. I have a good fan on my rear exhaust. A14 from Noctua. It's significantly better than the Venturi HF-14 which uses the similar inefficient blade design of the Corsair AF140.
Airflow and pressure wise the A14 design at the same, around 1000rpm, speed is roughly 15-20% better while being quieter. NF-P14s on the other hand beats the crap out of both.
Also I'd love to see that HF-14 move air as much as they claim. 120 CFM @ 1200rpm. Bollocks. I'll tip my virtual hat if that thing manages even half of that.



At lower fan speed, for example around 710-750rpm the NF-A14 moves ~16% more air and generates a little under 15% more pressure. NF-P14s produces same pressure as the NF-A14 at that same speed but moves almost a fifth more air.

Here's a front shot of all four of these fans, perhaps you'll understand why they perform the way they do if you take good hard look at them.


Reason I don't have a NF-P14s PWM on my rear exhaust is because I bought the damn thing (A14) almost a year before the Redux line came out. Fortunately I got it with a hefty discount.


----------



## Wirerat

Thanks but I know the difference in a static pressure fan vs a open air fan.

I have Gentle typhoon ap-15s where I need static pressure on my 360mm rad. The blade design is very different.

Static pressure fans push air out the diameter where open air fans blow air more direct in a more straight line.

I dont even know what your trying to argue now. I never made any spec claim on the Fractal fan.

Just that its pushing air out the back and its not loud even without removing the honey comb.

Why does that bother you so much? I can see why it hurts head.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Indeed but I wouldn't remove filters unless you want dust inside your computer. I plan on cutting the stupid honeycomb grill from the rear fan slot on my Define R5 and adding a wire grill.
> Puget Systems has a great article on this. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
> A traditional honeycomb grill is a 9% decrease to airflow on the exhaust side (8% on intake). Noise wise they measured an 2.5 dBA (35.5->38 or 7%) increase on low fan speed and 3dBA (55->58 or 5.5%) increase on high fan speed.
> A simple wire grill on exhaust side decreased airflow by 3-4% on exhaust side (2% on intake). Noise wise they measured a increase of ½ dBA on low fan speed and .8 dbA increase on high fan speed.


Yeah I keep filters for sure. But all the grills be it metal or plastic, vrooom dremel cut out. Didn't bother yet to put a metal wire guard on the rear and might even not do it after reading it does restrict 2-4% and raises noise level, I thought it's not going to be even measurable, but it seems it is.
Cutting it out is fairly easy with a dremel, I used wire cutters originally but once you try the dremel you will never want to go back. The air restriction from grills is huge and easy to test with your own hands.


----------



## ZeVo

Been thinking about cutting the mesh from my Midi v1 for a while, and may finally just do it. Don't have a dremel, nor do any of my friends have one. Maybe using the wire cutters won't be so bad...


----------



## jsx821

Hello, everyone.
I jumped on the $99.99 deal from New Egg for the R5 Black Window. I have plans of doing a custom loop and currently have some parts on the way from frozen.
I'm looking for some inspiration- anyone have custom water builds with the r5? I found a couple but not many due to this case being so new. Thanks


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsx821*
> 
> Hello, everyone.
> I jumped on the $99.99 deal from New Egg for the R5 Black Window. I have plans of doing a custom loop and currently have some parts on the way from frozen.
> I'm looking for some inspiration- anyone have custom water builds with the r5? I found a couple but not many due to this case being so new. Thanks


Here is mine at least, Will remind you that i am 15, and this is my first real custom loop, so might not be the best, eps. as the Cpu get the water after the gpus.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







My Oc is 4.75Ghz 1.33V for the Cpu, cache at 4.5Ghz, 1.270V, and the Gpus are custom flashed 980 G1s, running at 1557/2004Mhz at 1.275V.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Here is mine at least, Will remind you that i am 15, and this is my first real custom loop, so might not be the best, eps. as the Cpu get the water after the gpus.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Oc is 4.75Ghz 1.33V for the Cpu, cache at 4.5Ghz, 1.270V, and the Gpus are custom flashed 980 G1s, running at 1557/2004Mhz at 1.275V.


how are your temps?

I would think a single thick 360mm would not be enough for two 980s and a 4790k unless the fanspeed is high.

Looking good though.


----------



## Ensabrenoir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsx821*
> 
> Hello, everyone.
> I jumped on the $99.99 deal from New Egg for the R5 Black Window. I have plans of doing a custom loop and currently have some parts on the way from frozen.
> I'm looking for some inspiration- anyone have custom water builds with the r5? I found a couple but not many due to this case being so new. Thanks


..........is frozen back up and running?


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> how are your temps?
> 
> I would think a single thick 360mm would not be enough for two 980s and a 4790k unless the fanspeed is high.
> 
> Looking good though.


Thank you!

Well the temps are ok. 50-55¤C on the Gpus with max Oc, and the Cpu is around 65-75¤C depending. Fanspeed is close to 100%, noise as hell. would def. get another rad if you can.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Well the temps are ok. 50-55¤C on the Gpus with max Oc, and the Cpu is around 65-75¤C depending. Fanspeed is close to 100%, noise as hell. would def. get another rad if you can.


I thought so. Lol.

My R5 build is in sig. Im using sing a 360mm and a 140mm for a single 4790k and 970. My fans can almost be turned off 700rpm is 65c cpu and 45c gpu.


----------



## jsx821

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Here is mine at least, Will remind you that i am 15, and this is my first real custom loop, so might not be the best, eps. as the Cpu get the water after the gpus.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Oc is 4.75Ghz 1.33V for the Cpu, cache at 4.5Ghz, 1.270V, and the Gpus are custom flashed 980 G1s, running at 1557/2004Mhz at 1.275V.


How did you mount the pump onto the HD cage? Did you have to purchase a seperate bracket from eK?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsx821*
> 
> How did you mount the pump onto the HD cage? Did you have to purchase a seperate bracket from eK?


he posted pictures in this thread a few pages back. He cut a hole.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> he posted pictures in this thread a few pages back. He cut a hole.


Tada!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






I just cut a hole simply enough.









I just had enough place to put one of my SSDs beneath it


----------



## JackCY

And created a resonance chamber.


----------



## Arvin

I have an R4 and am looking to upgrade parts at the moment. I am getting the ASUS Maximus VII Ranger motherboard and look to get a H100i as the CPU cooler. I've heard with the cooler you need to make sure the motherboards heatsinks aren't too large? I'm not too sure, but can someone confirm whether the two would go well together?


----------



## pojo1806

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arvin*
> 
> I have an R4 and am looking to upgrade parts at the moment. I am getting the ASUS Maximus VII Ranger motherboard and look to get a H100i as the CPU cooler. I've heard with the cooler you need to make sure the motherboards heatsinks aren't too large? I'm not too sure, but can someone confirm whether the two would go well together?


You are in luck, I have the Asus Maximus VII Ranger and the H100i cooler, just make sure you plug everything into the mobo before you screw in the radiator otherwise you'll have a hard time.


----------



## pcrevolution

Just got a Define S for a new custom loop. But sadly I've been too caught up with work to be able to progress beyond unboxing.


----------



## black7hought

I'm going to buy a Define R5 in a couple days. I plan on painting the side panels and Moduvents red. Is there anyone here who has experience doing this for their Define R5?

I'm also transferring my OCZ/Firepower ModXStream 700w PSU to the case. Is anyone familiar with this PSU cable length? I'm not sure the cables will be long enough.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *black7hought*
> 
> I'm going to buy a Define R5 in a couple days. I plan on painting the side panels and Moduvents red. Is there anyone here who has experience doing this for their Define R5?
> 
> *I'm also transferring my OCZ/Firepower ModXStream 700w PSU to the case. Is anyone familiar with this PSU cable length? I'm not sure the cables will be long enough*.


psu cable extensions are rather cheap. You can even get them in colored single sleeves for $7-12 each if your cables are short.


----------



## black7hought

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> psu cable extensions are rather cheap. You can even get them in colored single sleeves for $7-12 each if your cables are short.


Thanks for the information.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *black7hought*
> 
> Thanks for the information.


np. I used them in my build and it helped with wire routing.


----------



## black7hought

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> np. I used them in my build and it helped with wire routing.


Any preferred brands for extensions?


----------



## Wirerat

Bitfenix and silverstone are nice if shopping at amazon.

There are a ton of brands at www.performance-pcs.com too.


----------



## black7hought

Ordered my Define R5 this morning. There is one more on Amazon for $99 with Prime shipping if anyone else is planning on buying one.


----------



## Wirerat

My custom R5 demci filter came in finally.



Its a shame fractal doesnt offer any kind of optional moduvents with filters.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Just got a Define S for a new custom loop. But sadly I've been too caught up with work to be able to progress beyond unboxing.


Wow its available for you guys already, where are you located, USA?

Says here in Norway unconfirmed 30. May









Already pre-ordered, will be re-doing my custom loop


----------



## GMcDougal

I'm looking to replace the front fans in my r2 mini with something that moves more air. I think I've narrowed down my replacement to these two fans. Which ones is best or is there a better choice? I'm not real concerned about keeping it quiet as long as it's not sounding like a tornado.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C249QNE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1431688494&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=high+static+pressure+120mm+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=51AHPQe6iBL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007V9IRB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_46?qid=1431689357&sr=8-46&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=high+static+pressure+120mm+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41ND-DhMv0L&ref=plSrch


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> I'm looking to replace the front fans in my r2 mini with something that moves more air. I think I've narrowed down my replacement to these two fans. Which ones is best or is there a better choice? I'm not real concerned about keeping it quiet as long as it's not sounding like a tornado.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C249QNE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1431688494&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=high+static+pressure+120mm+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=51AHPQe6iBL&ref=plSrch
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007V9IRB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_46?qid=1431689357&sr=8-46&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=high+static+pressure+120mm+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41ND-DhMv0L&ref=plSrch


The corsair sp120 high performance will move more air. They are higher rpm than the swiftech helix. They are also louder but you can slow them down if they are too loud.

I prefer ap15s (amazon is out) or ap14s due to how much pressure they have at lower quiet rpms. Scythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B4AP-14 120mm 1450 rpm Silent Case Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q6X0S6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5JDvvb14F0V91

The sp120s are the stronger fan even against the ap-14 but at the cost of noise again.


----------



## pojo1806

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> I'm looking to replace the front fans in my r2 mini with something that moves more air. I think I've narrowed down my replacement to these two fans. Which ones is best or is there a better choice? I'm not real concerned about keeping it quiet as long as it's not sounding like a tornado.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C249QNE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1431688494&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=high+static+pressure+120mm+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=51AHPQe6iBL&ref=plSrch
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007V9IRB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_46?qid=1431689357&sr=8-46&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=high+static+pressure+120mm+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41ND-DhMv0L&ref=plSrch


I have 2 Corsair AF140 in the front of my R4 (all drive bays removed), I highly recommend it.


----------



## GMcDougal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pojo1806*
> 
> I have 2 Corsair AF140 in the front of my R4 (all drive bays removed), I highly recommend it.


j
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pojo1806*
> 
> I have 2 Corsair AF140 in the front of my R4 (all drive bays removed), I highly recommend it.


Due to the filters on the intake side, I need a good static pressure fan correct? I bought the new Venturi series fan and with the dust filter in, it hardly blew anything. I had to send it back.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KoNLaR*
> 
> Wow its available for you guys already, where are you located, USA?
> 
> Says here in Norway unconfirmed 30. May
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already pre-ordered, will be re-doing my custom loop


Yeah I can't wait to re-do my custom loop as well. Grown too sick and tired of Corsair limiting radiator clearance just to cater for their AIOs.

I'm at Singapore. The distributors and retailers usually push out the new stuff the moment NDA ends.


----------



## LazarusIV

Ordered my Define S yesterday, I can't wait until it shows up. Just disappointed in this 750D... unrealized potential.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Yeah I can't wait to re-do my custom loop as well. Grown too sick and tired of Corsair limiting radiator clearance just to cater for their AIOs.
> 
> I'm at Singapore. The distributors and retailers usually push out the new stuff the moment NDA ends.


Fractal R4 here, clearance from the Motherboard is very bad aswell and not really any good spot to mount my Pump/Res Combo either, will be nice to have a case with good features for custom watercooling, not really many out there unless you go for more Full towers which are very expensive and hugeee.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Ordered my Define S yesterday, I can't wait until it shows up. Just disappointed in this 750D... unrealized potential.


Exactly my point.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> My custom R5 demci filter came in finally.
> 
> 
> 
> Its a shame fractal doesnt offer any kind of optional moduvents with filters.


What were your measurements for the filter?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> What were your measurements for the filter?


413mm by 178mm. It could have been about 3mm bigger both deminsions. Im happy with it though. I wanted to make sure it fit i to the recessed area so I measured it a little small. In the picture the difference is split and no case grill shows.

It took 5 weeks after the order of $26 from performancepcs to get it. They had demci make it I guess.


----------



## valkyrie743

So i'm very very interested in the Define S. looks really nice. i love my corsair air 540, but im not really a fan of having to mount my res/pump in the back above the PSU.
I have a 360 45MM XT45 nexxxos . would that be to tick of a rad to mount in the front of the Define S and still be able to fit my EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario.

i have a 240 30mm nexxxos and that 360 45mm, lmk thanks


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> So i'm very very interested in the Define S. looks really nice. i love my corsair air 540, but im not really a fan of having to mount my res/pump in the back above the PSU.
> I have a 360 45MM XT45 nexxxos . would that be to tick of a rad to mount in the front of the Define S and still be able to fit my EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario.
> 
> i have a 240 30mm nexxxos and that 360 45mm, lmk thanks


you will be able to fit the 360 rad in front or top. The 240 could fit top, front or bottum if the psu isnt too long.

The 240 wont fit in bottum if you have the 360 front at same time though.









You will lots of space for the 140mm xres/pump.


----------



## lurker2501

Has anyone had to deal with cable grommet color staining on FD cases? My original arc midi had a terrible issue when you would literally paint you fingers black when trying to route the cables. I had to clean all of the grommets from factory black paint to get rid of this problem.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Has anyone had to deal with cable grommet color staining on FD cases? My original arc midi had a terrible issue when you would literally paint you fingers black when trying to route the cables. I had to clean all of the grommets from factory black paint to get rid of this problem.


not on my R5.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> So i'm very very interested in the Define S. looks really nice. i love my corsair air 540, but im not really a fan of having to mount my res/pump in the back above the PSU.
> I have a 360 45MM XT45 nexxxos . would that be to tick of a rad to mount in the front of the Define S and still be able to fit my EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario.
> 
> i have a 240 30mm nexxxos and that 360 45mm, lmk thanks


I just got my Define S but I havent got time to do proper measurements yet.

In the worst case scenario, you can forgo the front intake filter and mount 25mm thick fans at the front just under the bezel so it won't eat into your internal space.

But as a rough guide, since 3.5" drives are mounted horizontally behind the tray, a rough estimate of how much you have until the rubber gromets would be around 5.78 inches or 14.7cm.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> you will be able to fit the 360 rad in front or top. The 240 could fit top, front or bottum if the psu isnt too long.
> 
> The 240 wont fit in bottum if you have the 360 front at same time though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will lots of space for the 140mm xres/pump.


Looks like one big radiator.









I have the Arc XL had to modify the back for the 120 RAD.

Be interesting to see if the back will do any rad without the overhang hitting the first PCI slot.


----------



## valkyrie743

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> I just got my Define S but I havent got time to do proper measurements yet.
> 
> In the worst case scenario, you can forgo the front intake filter and mount 25mm thick fans at the front just under the bezel so it won't eat into your internal space.
> 
> But as a rough guide, since 3.5" drives are mounted horizontally behind the tray, a rough estimate of how much you have until the rubber gromets would be around 5.78 inches or 14.7cm.


Awesome. I plan on having my 45mm 360 in the front and the 240 30mm on the top. I'm just worried that that 45plus fan would make it so I can't mount my pump res in the pump mounts the case has


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> Awesome. I plan on having my 45mm 360 in the front and the 240 30mm on the top. I'm just worried that that 45plus fan would make it so I can't mount my pump res in the pump mounts the case has


How do you intend to pump the D5 140 combo? By using a pump bracket attached to your front radiator or by using the strips on the Define?

I have the exact same pump res combo that I'll be using for my build.


----------



## valkyrie743

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> How do you intend to pump the D5 140 combo? By using a pump bracket attached to your front radiator or by using the strips on the Define?
> 
> I have the exact same pump res combo that I'll be using for my build.


not sure probably the back wall next to the motherboard or the floor. the floor probably would be a better idea being that it would bring it lower in the loop easier to drain
im just afraid that ill get the case put my 360 and fans in the front then it will be JUST to think and the res will not be able to mount to the mount holes. idk well see


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> j
> Due to the filters on the intake side, I need a good static pressure fan correct? I bought the new Venturi series fan and with the dust filter in, it hardly blew anything. I had to send it back.


Which Venturi fan did you buy, High Flow or High Pressure?


----------



## GMcDougal

High flow.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> High flow.


thats the wrong fan to pull air throw a filter. Im using high flow as exhaust and its blowing fine.


----------



## GMcDougal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> thats the wrong fan to pull air throw a filter. Im using high flow as exhaust and its blowing fine.


I know....that's why I sent it back and am looking for a great static fan. I think I'm going to get the corsair sp120 high performance fans. I know they can be a bit loud at max rpm but I'll get the pwm version so I can dial them back.


----------



## tateep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GMcDougal*
> 
> I know....that's why I sent it back and am looking for a great static fan. I think I'm going to get the corsair sp120 high performance fans. I know they can be a bit loud at max rpm but I'll get the pwm version so I can dial them back.


I recommend the Venturi High Pressure. I just installed 2x HP-140mm on the x61 280mm rad on the top of the R5 and they move a lot of air. I would say performance is on par with the Noctua NF-A14 PWM. I run them at 400rpm in silent mode and 800-1000rpm in performance mode and they are quiet. I've ordered another two to replace those ugly Noctuas I have in the front.


----------



## pojo1806

Did a buttload of cable management tonight, just waiting on my backplate from ColdZero before I post pics.


----------



## anotheraznguy

I am looking at the Define S and was wondering if anyone was successfully able to put one 360 in the front and one 360 in the top?

Rad measurements are 400 x 130 x 38
and the fans are 120x120x25

Thanks.


----------



## valkyrie743

I ordered my define s yesterday. Hopefully it will be here by Wednesday.

I'll do a few test fits with my rads as well as pump and take pictures. I wish I had a nice Camera I epuld make a video


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Just had an email from Fractal. They are now making an R5 Blackout Edition.


----------



## DevinR

for those of you in the arc mini r2 the h240x fits!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> Just had an email from Fractal. They are now making an R5 Blackout Edition.


thats been available at newegg for awhile.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> thats been available at newegg for awhile.


Oh right. Thought I'd post as I got the email today. Don't go on Newegg because I'm in the UK.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> So i'm very very interested in the Define S. looks really nice. i love my corsair air 540, but im not really a fan of having to mount my res/pump in the back above the PSU.
> I have a 360 45MM XT45 nexxxos . would that be to tick of a rad to mount in the front of the Define S and still be able to fit my EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario.
> 
> i have a 240 30mm nexxxos and that 360 45mm, lmk thanks


I have the XT45 radiator mounted in the front with the same pump/res and it just barely fits. Just enough for a stop fitting on the intake facing the radiator. Probably around a 5mm gap. If I was going to do it again, I would definitely recommend a 30mm radiator in the front instead.


----------



## valkyrie743

can you post pics so i can see. what are the mounts called that allow you to mount it to the rad?


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> I have the XT45 radiator mounted in the front with the same pump/res and it just barely fits. Just enough for a stop fitting on the intake facing the radiator. Probably around a 5mm gap. If I was going to do it again, I would definitely recommend a 30mm radiator in the front instead.


What graphics card are you using? And are you mounting it to the radiator or using the strips on the casing?


----------



## fisher6

Will be joining the club soon here. I'm thinking to expand my loop and move from the h440 to the Define S which seems to address all the issues I had with the h440 when it comes to watercooling. The case is not available yet here in Norway but should be next week. That said, I need some help choosing a 360 or a 240 mm rad to add to my loop.

I currently have the EK PE 360 which is 38mm thick. I'm unsure if I would be able to put it on top in push/pull and add a (45mm?) 240mm rad in the front. I will be mounting the EK D5 pump/combo using the EK uni holder v2 directly to the case which.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Will be joining the club soon here. I'm thinking to expand my loop and move from the h440 to the Define S which seems to address all the issues I had with the h440 when it comes to watercooling. The case is not available yet here in Norway but should be next week. That said, I need some help choosing a 360 or a 240 mm rad to add to my loop.
> 
> I currently have the EK PE 360 which is 38mm thick. I'm unsure if I would be able to put it on top in push/pull and add a (45mm?) 240mm rad in the front. I will be mounting the EK D5 pump/combo using the EK uni holder v2 directly to the case which.


if this helps I have a 360mm ek pe in top of my define r5. there is room for push/pull but I had to remove the top sinks from my gskill trident ram.

so unless you have really tall ram p/p on that 360 should work fine.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> if this helps I have a 360mm ek pe in top of my define r5. there is room for push/pull but I had to remove the top sinks from my gskill trident ram.
> 
> so unless you have really tall ram p/p on that 360 should work fine.


Nice, that's perfect. How about the front, do you think a 240 45mm or 60mm rad would fit with the pump and res mounted next to it?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Nice, that's perfect. How about the front, do you think a 240 45mm or 60mm rad would fit with the pump and res mounted next to it?


45mm thick in front with a 60mm outside diameter res will work unless you have a huge gpu like GIGABYTE gaming G1 gtx 970.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> can you post pics so i can see. what are the mounts called that allow you to mount it to the rad?


Here's some pics of the pump/res:



Just using the mount that came with the pump/res, the EK-UNI Holder D5. It is mounted using the strips that are laid out in the case, not mounted to the radiator. If you wanted to mount it to the radiator you would need something like the EK-UNI Pump Holder, which attaches to a 120mm fan mount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> What graphics card are you using? And are you mounting it to the radiator or using the strips on the casing?


Titan X. I'm mounting it to the case itself with the built-in reservoir strips.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 45mm thick in front with a 60mm outside diameter res will work unless you have a huge gpu like GIGABYTE gaming G1 gtx 970.


Great. I have the MSI GTX 970 4G with an EK waterblock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Here's some pics of the pump/res:
> 
> 
> 
> Just using the mount that came with the pump/res, the EK-UNI Holder D5. It is mounted using the strips that are laid out in the case, not mounted to the radiator. If you wanted to mount it to the radiator you would need something like the EK-UNI Pump Holder, which attaches to a 120mm fan mount.
> Titan X. I'm mounting it to the case itself with the built-in reservoir strips.


Looks really nice. I have the same combo and will be mounting it like this too.


----------



## valkyrie743

thanks for posting those pictures!!!!! looks like a perfect fit for me lol. looks like ill have to by a res top so i can use the top as an inlet. which res top do you have? the EK-RES X3?


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> thanks for posting those pictures!!!!! looks like a perfect fit for me lol. looks like ill have to by a res top so i can use the top as an inlet. which res top do you have? the EK-RES X3?


The EK-RES X3 Multiport.


----------



## anotheraznguy

thanks for the pics thedoo. Do you mind telling us what rad you have up top as well as what mobo and if you have tight clearance w/ the vrm


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> thanks for the pics thedoo. Do you mind telling us what rad you have up top as well as what mobo and if you have tight clearance w/ the vrm


I have a 240 Alphacool XT45 on the top, only one set of fans for the moment. Mobo is the X99 Sabertooth. Plenty of space for another set of fans since the 120mm fan mounts are offset. No issue with the VRM cooler, even though the Sabertooth has a fairly large one. If you have large RAM heatsinks there might be a problem with Push/Pull. I'll see if I can get a picture later today for a better look at spacing.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> I have a 240 Alphacool XT45 on the top, only one set of fans for the moment. Mobo is the X99 Sabertooth. Plenty of space for another set of fans since the 120mm fan mounts are offset. No issue with the VRM cooler, even though the Sabertooth has a fairly large one. If you have large RAM heatsinks there might be a problem with Push/Pull. I'll see if I can get a picture later today for a better look at spacing.


May I ask how thick the front rad is? Do you think there is enough space for a 250mm tube reservoir mounted in the same way as you have it. Also, what do you think about the airflow of the case overall and the front intake?


----------



## anotheraznguy

fisher, the xt45 physical width is 46mm.

thedoo, do you believe a 280/420 radiator with the max height of 55mm would clear your mobo? I am trying to determine if i can shove a 420 up top and a 280 in the front.

Thanks for all the help.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> May I ask how thick the front rad is? Do you think there is enough space for a 250mm tube reservoir mounted in the same way as you have it. Also, what do you think about the airflow of the case overall and the front intake?


The pump housing is wider than the reservoir, so if the pump/res combo fits with a smaller reservoir, in my case a 140mm, I believe you will only be limited in height of the case itself. Should be plenty for a 250mm tube. Haven't had the chance to actually test airflow or anything as I'm still building in it, but even with a large tube reservoir, front intake should be fairly unrestricted.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> fisher, the xt45 physical width is 46mm.
> 
> thedoo, do you believe a 280/420 radiator with the max height of 55mm would clear your mobo? I am trying to determine if i can shove a 420 up top and a 280 in the front.
> 
> Thanks for all the help.


It was originally my plan to go with a 420 in the top, but even with a 30mm radiator, the 140mm fan mounts are not offset enough and end up hitting part of the shroud near the IO ports on the X99 Sabertooth.

Here's a crappy MS-paint of where it hits:


I didn't try taking the shroud off, so I'm not sure if it would fit otherwise. But it seems like there was a chance it would. As the 120mm mounts are more offset, I decided to just go with that instead.


----------



## valkyrie743

thedoo, one more question. being that the EK-XRES D5 we both have has 2 inlets. they both are recessed. being that i would be blocking both and having the inlet on the top with the new pump top. do i need to get another special EK-Extender G1/4 to plug the other inlet?
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842799.pdf

would i just need to use 2 regular plugs or have to buy another extender? i can't think right today and just want to make sure before i place the order.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> thedoo, one more question. being that the EK-XRES D5 we both have has 2 inlets. they both are recessed. being that i would be blocking both and having the inlet on the top with the new pump top. do i need to get another special EK-Extender G1/4 to plug the other inlet?
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109842799.pdf
> 
> would i just need to use 2 regular plugs or have to buy another extender? i can't think right today and just want to make sure before i place the order.


You don't need to use the extender if you are just plugging the inlet.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> The pump housing is wider than the reservoir, so if the pump/res combo fits with a smaller reservoir, in my case a 140mm, I believe you will only be limited in height of the case itself. Should be plenty for a 250mm tube. Haven't had the chance to actually test airflow or anything as I'm still building in it, but even with a large tube reservoir, front intake should be fairly unrestricted.
> It was originally my plan to go with a 420 in the top, but even with a 30mm radiator, the 140mm fan mounts are not offset enough and end up hitting part of the shroud near the IO ports on the X99 Sabertooth.
> 
> Here's a crappy MS-paint of where it hits:
> 
> 
> I didn't try taking the shroud off, so I'm not sure if it would fit otherwise. But it seems like there was a chance it would. As the 120mm mounts are more offset, I decided to just go with that instead.


looks the cpu 4pin+8pin could have been a issue too with the psu connected they get tall.

fractal really only has room for a 420 with some cheaper low profile mobos.


----------



## anotheraznguy

I don't even think the issue is with a cheap or expensive motherboard. It all depends on whether or not the mobo has an I/O shield. And even after that, you need to look at the I/o to see what the first leftmost plug is. i noticed that on the Asus Sabertooth the first I/O is a quad stack of usb ports where as the Asus Deluxe has a short BIOS reset switch.

I broke down an bought a Define S today and will be doing some measurements for my own sanity to see what mobo is even possible as well as what radiator size might fit.

Here are what i gathered from the manual and it shows that the max width for front rad is 60mm, however they are assuming you will place the front fans outside the case.





On that note, i will say that the new batch of motherboards for x99 are seriously packed tightly to make room for all the goodies. The problem is that they are starting to cause issues with clearance between heatsink/memory or heatsink/gpu or even memory/gpu

I have been trying to finalize this build for almost 2 weeks now and it is very stressful and tiring trying to find components that will even work together or a suitable motherboard.

At least i will have a case now


----------



## Lettuceman

Can an AlphaCool UT60 360mm rad fit in the top of a Define R5?

And if not, and the rad has to go in the front....what would the air flow configuration look like? Top and back intake, and the front exhaust?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman*
> 
> Can an AlphaCool UT60 360mm rad fit in the top of a Define R5?
> 
> And if not, and the rad has to go in the front....what would the air flow configuration look like? Top and back intake, and the front exhaust?


it will fit in the top no problem.

The only issue might be ram clearance. gskill trident ram like have has removable tops.

normal or low profile ram will work fine. Tall ram will not.

The ram will have to be no taller than the standard ram pcb hight.

if you zoom in you can see my 38mm thick ek pe rad + 25mm thick GT fans are covering the top edge of the gskill tridents. I had to remove the tops. A thicker rad will just cover more of the mobo is all.


----------



## pojo1806

Anyone know when the Define S comes out in the uk?


----------



## Lettuceman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman*
> 
> Can an AlphaCool UT60 360mm rad fit in the top of a Define R5?
> 
> And if not, and the rad has to go in the front....what would the air flow configuration look like? Top and back intake, and the front exhaust?
> 
> 
> 
> it will fit in the top no problem.
> 
> The only issue might be ram clearance. gskill trident ram like have has removable tops.
> 
> normal or low profile ram will work fine. Tall ram will not.
> 
> The ram will have to be no taller than the standard ram pcb hight.
> 
> if you zoom in you can see my 38mm thick ek pe rad + 25mm thick GT fans are covering the top edge of the gskill tridents. I had to remove the tops. A thicker rad will just cover more of the mobo is all.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks! Appreciate it!


----------



## anotheraznguy

Well, just got my Refine S today from newegg. Now i just need to get my motherboard and other internals to take some measurements. Now, onto the bad news. The case or rear panel is tweaked and wont close. now to deal w/ the rma process or see what fractal have to say.


----------



## Arvin

I've got a R4 case which I am upgrading with new parts today. I was wondering what suggestions people can give for cooling with the parts I have. Which fans should be intake or exhaust etc.

1x Cooler Master 240M
2x 140mm fans (1 is the default and 1 is Noctua NF-A14 FLX)
1x 140mm default exhaust fan.

I'm assuming the front two will be intake and the back exhaust. What should the Coolermaster fans with the radiator be at the top?


----------



## pojo1806

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arvin*
> 
> I've got a R4 case which I am upgrading with new parts today. I was wondering what suggestions people can give for cooling with the parts I have. Which fans should be intake or exhaust etc.
> 
> 1x Cooler Master 240M
> 2x 140mm fans (1 is the default and 1 is Noctua NF-A14 FLX)
> 1x 140mm default exhaust fan.
> 
> I'm assuming the front two will be intake and the back exhaust. What should the Coolermaster fans with the radiator be at the top?


I have 2 140mm intake at the front, 1 140mm exhaust in the back and 2 sp120 as exhaust on my h100i in the top.


----------



## JackCY

Define S, for real? A bottom filter again only removable from the rear? WTH Fractal. Ditch that nonsense already. No EATX or oversized ATX either because of the raised panel being too close to MB.
I think the R5 is a much better and more modular case. Hopefully price will offset the difference.

Now a new small Define case.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

I bought the Fractal Design S and receieved it last week, figured i would go ahead and post pictures:


----------



## G227

Hey guys!

I'm sure you get asked this a lot - I just got my Define R5 because I wanted something more quiet (I'm coming from Node 804). And as a new build - I'm trying to figure out placement of the fans/radiators - have spend entire day on it today







. My biggest dilemma is that I really don't want to blow hot air from my radiators into the case, but don't seem to have a better option. So any advice would be great!

Critical components:
5820K with dual radiator AIO (Enermax 240), Titan X with single radiator AIO (EVGA Hybrid AIO for 980) - rest not really important









Current setup:
FRONT: 1x 140 fresh intake on top, 1x120 push&pull for the single radiator AIO intake on bottom
BOTTOM: 1x 120 exhaust (right behind the GPU AIO radiator in an attempt to get the heat out)
TOP: 2x120 exhaust/pull through the 240 CPU radiator
Back: 1x140 intake blowing air under the CPU exhaust

So - in a nutshell - its a Frankenstein monster







. I have experimented a bit, but your insight would be great since many of you have extensive experience with the case







. *Mainly I'm thinking about the position of the GPU 120 radiator - where to put it and if it should be in or out - & if in, then how to best direct the heat out* (I was even thinking of building a bit of an air-tunnel for it. Main goal is - well all







silence is important, but temps too.

Thanks a ton for the help!


----------



## lagittaja

If you want to keep stuff almost like it is, make the bottom fan intake or remove it all together. Bottom exhaust makes no sense. I'd remove it completely.

Personally this is what I would do since you don't have a 280 rad for the CPU.
CPU 240 - Front intake, GPU 120 - Rear exhaust, seal the top (no dust gets in) and remove the bottom fan. You could try if adding the bottom fan as intake helps anything. Probably not.


----------



## G227

Thanks! But having the only intake as 240 fronton through radiator - wouldn't that make the entire system that much hotter? I never understood how one could have radiators everywhere - like this. If they are intake they would blow hot air over the MB and other components no? And if exhaust, well whethe do they get air from?

Appreciate the advice - just trying to u destined - don't have any experience building with radiators. Thanks!


----------



## JackCY

It's down to personal preference really. Top fans can be loud, especially if a radiator is present and you left the grill there too.

To avoid blowing hot air inside the components area you would need to mod and make a chamber. Personally I would get rid of all cages and separate that area from the MB by an added wall. Place all radiators in the created closed compartment, either mount on side panels and blow straight through from one to the other, or mount on front intake and create exhaust on one of the side panels. 3x120 should fit height wise, at least it seems to in Define S. Then add bottom filtered intake and rear exhaust for the components compartment. If bottom doesn't fit anymore, then get a cheapo filter and use side as intake instead.

This would work for R5 easily since you can screw out all the cages. Other cases you would have to cut something out to get rid of all the cages.

You get fresh cold air to all radiators and all the hot air goes straight out.
Drives can be mounted anywhere IMHO, especially SSDs, use your imagination.

---

Nonmod sensible variants:
CPU top exhaust push, GPU rear exhaust PP, place other fans as intakes
The other options will blow hot air inside the case. Is that an issue? Not IMHO. Most parts don't care about ambient temperature. Capacitors are temperature sensitive but they are solid and sealed on MB and GPU these days. I wouldn't worry about the inside of the case being warmer. With air cooling it's all dissipated inside the case as well and more so concentrated at the top rear.


----------



## KoNLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> I bought the Fractal Design S and receieved it last week, figured i would go ahead and post pictures:


Post some more when you done and your thoughts on the case









Thanks


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G227*
> 
> Thanks! But having the only intake as 240 fronton through radiator - wouldn't that make the entire system that much hotter? I never understood how one could have radiators everywhere - like this. If they are intake they would blow hot air over the MB and other components no? And if exhaust, well whethe do they get air from?
> 
> Appreciate the advice - just trying to u destined - don't have any experience building with radiators. Thanks!


Yes, of course. Having the CPU 240 rad as the only intake will of course increase the case temperature. And it's gonna slightly affect other components temperatures. But it's not that big of a deal.
You're already pumping hot air inside your case with the Titan X. And the Titan X has a TDP of 250W. The 5820K has a TDP of a 140W.
The amount the 5820K is going to increase your inside case temperature is a lot less than what the Titan X is.
The ambient air in / radiator air out temp difference is not going to be large difference, should be well under 10C or something like that. Not 100% sure, haven't done any measurements myself.
If you have something to measure temperatures, go and measure the difference. For example some multimeters have temp probes. Or you could use the outdoor probe of a weather station.

What I suggested keeps most of the noise inside your case. And since you don't have a 280 rad your top of the case is exposed with the 240 rad since it doesn't cover all of the open space. Dust gets in and noise leaks out.


----------



## Pip Boy

Would the side panel of the 'S' fit the Define Mini ?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pip Boy*
> 
> Would the side panel of the 'S' fit the Define Mini ?


No not possible.


----------



## Pip Boy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> No not possible.


thanks


----------



## G227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It's down to personal preference really. Top fans can be loud, especially if a radiator is present and you left the grill there too.
> 
> To avoid blowing hot air inside the components area you would need to mod and make a chamber. Personally I would get rid of all cages and separate that area from the MB by an added wall. Place all radiators in the created closed compartment, either mount on side panels and blow straight through from one to the other, or mount on front intake and create exhaust on one of the side panels. 3x120 should fit height wise, at least it seems to in Define S. Then add bottom filtered intake and rear exhaust for the components compartment. If bottom doesn't fit anymore, then get a cheapo filter and use side as intake instead.
> 
> This would work for R5 easily since you can screw out all the cages. Other cases you would have to cut something out to get rid of all the cages.
> 
> You get fresh cold air to all radiators and all the hot air goes straight out.
> Drives can be mounted anywhere IMHO, especially SSDs, use your imagination.
> 
> ---
> 
> Nonmod sensible variants:
> CPU top exhaust push, GPU rear exhaust PP, place other fans as intakes
> The other options will blow hot air inside the case. Is that an issue? Not IMHO. Most parts don't care about ambient temperature. Capacitors are temperature sensitive but they are solid and sealed on MB and GPU these days. I wouldn't worry about the inside of the case being warmer. With air cooling it's all dissipated inside the case as well and more so concentrated at the top rear.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Yes, of course. Having the CPU 240 rad as the only intake will of course increase the case temperature. And it's gonna slightly affect other components temperatures. But it's not that big of a deal.
> You're already pumping hot air inside your case with the Titan X. And the Titan X has a TDP of 250W. The 5820K has a TDP of a 140W.
> The amount the 5820K is going to increase your inside case temperature is a lot less than what the Titan X is.
> The ambient air in / radiator air out temp difference is not going to be large difference, should be well under 10C or something like that. Not 100% sure, haven't done any measurements myself.
> If you have something to measure temperatures, go and measure the difference. For example some multimeters have temp probes. Or you could use the outdoor probe of a weather station.
> 
> What I suggested keeps most of the noise inside your case. And since you don't have a 280 rad your top of the case is exposed with the 240 rad since it doesn't cover all of the open space. Dust gets in and noise leaks out.


Thanks for the response! Update - I have decided to get rid off the 240mm AIO for CPU just so that I can close the top and don't have to intake through it. Now I'm stuck in between two options:

A) CURRENT setup:
- FRONT: 1x140mm intake (maybe + 1x120mm intake above it) & 120 push&pull through radiator for GPU AIO on the bottom with bottom exhaust (kind of a DIY housing







)
- TOP: nothing








- BACK: 140mm exhaust
- BOTTOM: tried 1x intake behind the exhaust for GPU, but it takes in the hot air GPU outputs next to it - so the best I could do would be to do it as an 120mm exhaust for the DIY GPU housing
+ as CPU cooler I got Noctua NH-D15; the issue is I would have to swap out MOBO if I go SLI as my x99 micro has first PCI-E slot over-hanged









B)
- FRONT: 1x140mm intake (maybe + 1x120mm intake above it) & *120 push&pull through radiator for CPU AIO on the bottom with bottom exhaust (kind of a DIY housing







)*
- TOP: nothing








- BACK: *120mm push&pull through AIO GPU rad as exhaust*
- BOTTOM: 120mm exhaust for the DIY CPU housing

Now I'm thinking option B is probably better? But the *issue is finding good enough CPU 120mm AIO that would be good enough and have a long enough tubing that I could run it in the bottom slot on the front.*

Any though much appreciated!


----------



## JackCY

I would use the D15 because it's quieter probably. But that would mean mounting the GPU AIO on bottom or front or top front. I'm not sure how good bottom exhaust is but it could work if you put decent intake on the front, which you should always do anyway.
D15, AIO bottom or top exhaust, feed air inside the case where ever possible. We don't know how your contraption of GPU AIO looks like though. Since you have to move your card, you probably wouldn't have space to mount the GPU AIO in place of PCIE slots as exhaust.
It's up to you, where ever you mount it, it will work


----------



## rv8000

I had my Define S come in two weeks ago finally had a chance to transplant the build out of my S340.

First off this case is incredibly well built as I thought it would be and it's really hard to have anything negative to say about it. Even for an air cooling based system this case is leagues better than the S340 while maintaining a similar footprint. There were a Few issues with my case however: one of the side panels has a noticeable bow to it and doesn't close flush, the front mic/headphone jacks are swapped and pick up some weird interference (gonna blame the interference on onboard though).

Some minor cons:

- there is very little room on the back side of the case if you require multiple psu cables for gpus and such with multiple hard drives mounted
- there is very little room by the cable management opening near the psu with longer psu's
- the front mounts for fans have an open slot for screws rather than a screw hole and this can make it a pain to get fans mounted straight but I do understand it is for flexibility of mounting more than anything
- larger psu's interfere with the bottom fan mounts for 140mm fans (and possible 120mm fans the larger your psu is)
- front filter appears to be more restrictive than most filters ive used
- hard to tidy up longer psu cables; you're going to end up with a lot of bunched up cable on the component side of the case


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rv8000*
> 
> I had my Define S come in two weeks ago finally had a chance to transplant the build out of my S340.
> 
> First off this case is incredibly well built as I thought it would be and it's really hard to have anything negative to say about it. Even for an air cooling based system this case is leagues better than the S340 while maintaining a similar footprint. There were a Few issues with my case however: one of the side panels has a noticeable bow to it and doesn't close flush, the front mic/headphone jacks are swapped and pick up some weird interference (gonna blame the interference on onboard though).
> 
> Some minor cons:
> 
> - there is very little room on the back side of the case if you require multiple psu cables for gpus and such with multiple hard drives mounted
> - there is very little room by the cable management opening near the psu with longer psu's
> - the front mounts for fans have an open slot for screws rather than a screw hole and this can make it a pain to get fans mounted straight but I do understand it is for flexibility of mounting more than anything
> - larger psu's interfere with the bottom fan mounts for 140mm fans (and possible 120mm fans the larger your psu is)
> - front filter appears to be more restrictive than most filters ive used
> - hard to tidy up longer psu cables; you're going to end up with a lot of bunched up cable on the component side of the case
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good


----------



## valkyrie743

It's 3 am just posting a picture while in bed from my phone. Tomorrow will be running tubing and filling. Love this case so much so far. Like it more than my corsair air 540 and that's still a nice case.





Heres a video I filmed an hour or so ago. Just talking about Clarence in the front for mounting the rad as well as a pump res. also show how my loop will flow and what fittings and parts I have

Will probably make another video once filled and running as well as temps. I wish I had some extra $ this week so I could get some white mayhems white pastel coolant.:/. But clear X1 will have to do for now

Also I know I have a speech problem. Hope it's not to bad I was tired and just got done doing the fittings and mounting everything when filming. Also used my iPhone and it's led light. My apt had ****ty lighting so that's the best I have for now.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valkyrie743*
> 
> It's 3 am just posting a picture while in bed from my phone. Tomorrow will be running tubing and filling. Love this case so much so far. Like it more than my corsair air 540 and that's still a nice case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres a video I filmed an hour or so ago. Just talking about Clarence in the front for mounting the rad as well as a pump res. also show how my loop will flow and what fittings and parts I have
> 
> Will probably make another video once filled and running as well as temps. I wish I had some extra $ this week so I could get some white mayhems white pastel coolant.:/. But clear X1 will have to do for now
> 
> Also I know I have a speech problem. Hope it's not to bad I was tired and just got done doing the fittings and mounting everything when filming. Also used my iPhone and it's led light. My apt had ****ty lighting so that's the best I have for now.


Please correct me if I'm wrong about the specs!

That's an alphacool XT45 360 and a set of 25mm fans right + EK D5 x-res 140 combo?

The EVGA 980 is approx 10.5inches?

Looks like my build will turn out fine if that's the case.

Does the EK Uni holder fit perfectly with the mounting strips?


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> Please correct me if I'm wrong about the specs!
> 
> That's an alphacool XT45 360 and a set of 25mm fans right + EK D5 x-res 140 combo?
> 
> The EVGA 980 is approx 10.5inches?
> 
> Looks like my build will turn out fine if that's the case.
> 
> Does the EK Uni holder fit perfectly with the mounting strips?


For those wondering if the EK Uni holder will fit. I emailed FD about it and they sent this picture: It should fit perfectly. Pretty sure @valkyrie743 uses it.


----------



## anotheraznguy

@valkyrie743, do you think the larger 250mm x-res would fit in the case if you mounted the reservoir lower?
Also, when you tried putting the 360mm up top, did it interfere w/ the rear fan?

thanks


----------



## SeahawkCustom

In my fractal midi R2 I put alphacool 420 45 mm rad and fan will not fit.but with a 360 60 mm fan will fit also 250mm resivor fits.good luck


----------



## thedoo

Finally finished my build in the Define S.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Finally finished my build in the Define S.


Very nice. Did you add a drain port at the bottom? I'm looking at having a 240 in the front with a drain port in the bottom of the case but can't find any good radiator that is 45mm thick.


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Very nice. Did you add a drain port at the bottom? I'm looking at having a 240 in the front with a drain port in the bottom of the case but can't find any good radiator that is 45mm thick.


The drain port comes off of a T fitting at the pump outlet. I just have some soft tubing with a compression fitting attached to a ball valve that I can pull out and open to drain.


----------



## SeahawkCustom

Very nice looking build my friend.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> The drain port comes off of a T fitting at the pump outlet. I just have some soft tubing with a compression fitting attached to a ball valve that I can pull out and open to drain.


I see, but is the pump/res combo mounted as low as possible or is the front sitting slightly lower?


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Finally finished my build in the Define S.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


that looks nice


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> I see, but is the pump/res combo mounted as low as possible or is the front sitting slightly lower?


The pump/res can be mounted lower on the case reservoir strips, but it won't be lower than the bottom of the front radiator. If I moved the 360 to the top and the 240 to the front, and mounted the 240 to the top 2 fan mounts, I could get the pump/res to be the lowest point, but that would probably require a slimmer radiator than what I have.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> The pump/res can be mounted lower on the case reservoir strips, but it won't be lower than the bottom of the front radiator. If I moved the 360 to the top and the 240 to the front, and mounted the 240 to the top 2 fan mounts, I could get the pump/res to be the lowest point, but that would probably require a slimmer radiator than what I have.


Is the top a 45 or 60mm 240 rad?


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Is the top a 45 or 60mm 240 rad?


45mm.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

So apparently Rampage IV does not fit in Define S... I saw this image  of it fitting in an R5, but in actuality it just sort of floats there.

Would it be feasible to mod the case by cutting that grooved metal that Fractal for some reason decided to put into their chassis where the holes for cable management are? I really don't want to have to send this back and find another feasible case for my loop as I already bought all the parts and it wasn't that expensive.


----------



## pcrevolution

I suppose the PCB is in contact with the metal chassis?


----------



## anotheraznguy

I don't see the problem there. The Rampage is an Extended ATX motherboard while the fractal case is only compatible w/ ATX, Micro ATX, Mini ITX. I would assume that if you wanted to fit something not listed as compatible, a bit of modifications would need to be done.


----------



## MapRef41N93W

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> I don't see the problem there. The Rampage is an Extended ATX motherboard while the fractal case is only compatible w/ ATX, Micro ATX, Mini ITX. I would assume that if you wanted to fit something not listed as compatible, a bit of modifications would need to be done.


Yes I'm aware of this fact. However someone claimed their Rampage IV fit in the R5 but in actuality, the mobo gets lifted off and can't be screwed down while also making contact with the metal.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> I suppose the PCB is in contact with the metal chassis?


Yes. Anyways, I just decided to throw my 2600k build in the Define S and mod the Enthoo Pro I have to fit all the stuff I was going to put in the Define S for my 3930k build.


----------



## InstinktCZ

Hi there... im kinda new to this forum but i love fractal design cases







(exuse some english mistakes, its not my native language







) I have 2 at home, define mini and define R4 and with R4 i need a little help... Im planning to make it unique a bit by putting led strips on both sides behind the intake bars. And here is the "problem" i already order the led strips and its connecting to the molex conector from power suply - no problem yet - but the pc is often running at night and im a bit scared how much light the led strips will do so i woudl like to ask if its some possibility to made from fan controler on the front side (i already take out the cables) some kind of switch on/off (dor example 12V ON - 5V OFF) and connect it to the led strips. Is it even possible? Or i want something unreal?









Ill be pleased for every advice..
Instinkt


----------



## JackCY

Well you could get the usual cheap LED strips used for room lights and all other stuff as well. These run on 12V maximum, reasonably cheap too. And can be connected to any voltage 0-12V so you can dim them by voltage or PWM if you have a controller.
No idea what LEDs you have but you could definitely (if they run on 12V and don't have some crazy controller built-in or something) connect them to R4 fan switch that outputs 5,7,12V so you could dim the LEDs. It has no off position. You would need a separate switch to add on/off but that is easy to do.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MapRef41N93W*
> 
> So apparently Rampage IV does not fit in Define S... I saw this image  of it fitting in an R5, but in actuality it just sort of floats there.
> 
> Would it be feasible to mod the case by cutting that grooved metal that Fractal for some reason decided to put into their chassis where the holes for cable management are? I really don't want to have to send this back and find another feasible case for my loop as I already bought all the parts and it wasn't that expensive.


Nice screamer fan








The board is unnecessarily big. A little bigger works, but not all EATX work.
If I couldn't screw the board down, I would dremel the metal out and make one big hole for cables and the mobo.


----------



## Dimensive

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/fractal-design-reveals-computex-lineup,29235.html

I want that Node 202!


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/news/fractal-design-reveals-computex-lineup,29235.html
> 
> I want that Node 202!


CORE 500 seems like Node304 with core-series casing and 5,25" slot. Very good looking actually, and reasonably priced.


----------



## Dimensive

Yea, it looks good. And I noticed that it has more ventilation than the 304. I can't wait to see builds using these new cases.


----------



## smoke2

I'm owning Fractal R4 case, I have two front 140mm fans, middle HDD cage removed, one 120mm on the bottom and one 140mm on the back.
Would like to ask, if the upper front fan will have any affect to lower temperatures of the graphics card Gigabyte G1.Gaming GTX 980 or will be on that position unnecessarily?


----------



## anotheraznguy

The define S is slowly getting built. Time to retire for the night but hopefully all the hardlines will be run by the end of the weekend


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm owning Fractal R4 case, I have two front 140mm fans, middle HDD cage removed, one 120mm on the bottom and one 140mm on the back.
> Would like to ask, if the upper front fan will have any affect to lower temperatures of the graphics card Gigabyte G1.Gaming GTX 980 or will be on that position unnecessarily?


Intakes always help. Even if the top front is more for CPU. Plus you have a bottom cage which blocks the front bottom intake a LOT.


----------



## smoke2

Do you think the top front fan helps to cool down the graphics card also in my case?


----------



## levontraut

So I bought a R5 yesterday and compared to my XL2 and R4 the build quality is horrible.

What are your thoughts?

Cheers
Levon


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> So I bought a R5 yesterday and compared to my XL2 and R4 the build quality is horrible.
> 
> What are your thoughts?
> 
> Cheers
> Levon


How so?


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> How so?


lets look at the hdd cages.

The R5 is lacking cover and I am sure if I wipe it to hard the paint/powder coating will come off (very patchy, to the point I am surprised it got past QC)
The R4 and XL2 is nice and thick.

The R5 rubbers for the hdd cages are so weak and I am scared to use them as it wants to tear.
The R4 and XL2 rubbers are nice and strong hard yet soft enough to work with.

Also on the R5 I am sure I am missing little rubber stoppers for the door. there is just this void with nothing in it( has a screw thread for rubber stoppers but nothing)

Just from what I saw in the R4 and the XL2 I really thought I was going to get a good case but I am very disjointed with it.


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> lets look at the hdd cages.
> 
> The R5 is lacking cover and I am sure if I wipe it to hard the paint/powder coating will come off (very patchy, to the point I am surprised it got past QC)
> The R4 and XL2 is nice and thick.
> 
> The R5 rubbers for the hdd cages are so weak and I am scared to use them as it wants to tear.
> The R4 and XL2 rubbers are nice and strong hard yet soft enough to work with.
> 
> Also on the R5 I am sure I am missing little rubber stoppers for the door. there is just this void with nothing in it( has a screw thread for rubber stoppers but nothing)
> 
> Just from what I saw in the R4 and the XL2 I really thought I was going to get a good case but I am very disjointed with it.


Can you exchange it? They might have made a dud.


----------



## levontraut

I have already transferred all the parts over to the new case.
I dont feel like swapping it all again.


----------



## lagittaja

What rubber stoppers? Those screw holes are for the door hinge mechanism, you can change the direction the door opens.
At least imho there's no need for rubber stoppers considering the way the door locks in place. Sure if you slam the damn thing shut with all the force you can muster..

And regarding the paint job, it's a bit on the thin side but "wipe it too hard" and it'll get damaged? LOL. Sure it will get scratched if you grab a screwdriver and go to town.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> Do you think the top front fan helps to cool down the graphics card also in my case?


Well for me what helps most is to open the case








But that's because CPU hardly goes to 70C which where the fans start to spin up from the idle 500-600rpm to about 800rpm or so.
Intakes always help.


----------



## Wirerat

Done some minor updates to my R5. Added a bitspower ddc heatsink, ek 140 xres and cleaned up some tubing runs.


----------



## lagittaja

smoke2, regarding your fan setup. Your bottom intake is more than likely the unnecessary fan in the equation.
SilentPCReview used Define R5* for their Quiet ATX Gaming rig article.
Starting point was two system fans, a single front intake (upper slot) and a single rear exhaust.
Components wise they had a i5-4670K with a Scythe Kotetsu, GTX 980 Strix and a bq! Straight Power 10 600W.

They first tried adding a bottom intake, 140mm Fractal Design fan from the Define R4.
All fans spun at same speed, 500rpm. ½ dBA rise in noise levels and a couple of degress off of from GPU and PCH temps.

Then they removed the bottom fan, removed the lower HDD cage and then added a second front fan, an Antec TrueQuiet 140.
All components saw a temperature drop under load, GPU dropped the most, a decent 6C (87->81). And no measureable difference in noise.
They then went ahead and adjusted the GPU fan profile ever so slightly, dropping the overall system noise levels just a touch while only increasing the GPU temp by 3C (81->84).

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1422-page4.html

So, if I were you, I'd try experimenting with the bottom fan.

*Although it is worth mentioning that the Define R5 front side intake holes are less restrictive than on the Define R4.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> They first tried adding a bottom intake, 140mm Fractal Design fan from the Define R4.
> All fans spun at same speed, 500rpm. ½ dBA rise in noise levels and a couple of degress off of from GPU and PCH temps.


FD fans don't run well when in horizontal inverted position, they vibrate. At least both my FD R4 fans do.
Quote:


> They then went ahead and adjusted the GPU fan profile ever so slightly, dropping the overall system noise levels just a touch while only increasing the GPU temp by 3C (81->84).


GPU over 80C on load is not good :/ But I get it, that's what Nvidia sets their card fan profiles for to keep the cards quieter and burn them instead until they throttle performance by reducing boost clock and voltage, which I guess is at 85C.


----------



## Achromatis

Just moved everything from a Bitfenix Shinobi to my new R5. I don't think I will ever buy another cheaply made case again. I want to dismantle my PC just so I can put it back together again!


----------



## anotheraznguy

Just finished up a build in the Define S

i will say that this sucker is a breeze to work on







Even with the individually sleeved cable and 4 hard drives, cable management was easy and the backpanel went on without issues.,


----------



## appaws

Hey everyone. The Define S seems to be about the perfect WC case at a super low price!

Seeing a lot of sweet builds here. Thinking of going over to a Define S from my Air 540...I see a lot of you are using EK Res that seem to be smaller than the XSPC Photon/D5 I have.

Just wondering if I can get fans, an AX360, and then a XSPC Photon 170/D5 combo in the front...or will I have to put the fans outside the frame and lose the filter?


----------



## dreameer111

@ anotheraznguy, what are your room and hard drive temps like?


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreameer111*
> 
> @ anotheraznguy, what are your room and hard drive temps like?


Ambient temps were 29C today, I was doing a lot of benching and stress testing with the side panel on.

2 980 Ti's peaked at 55C
The 5820 at 4.5 ghz on 1.28v hit 63C
The Harddrives Ranged from 37 to 41 C with the SSD being 41C since i am assuming that it is closer to the mobo than any of the other HD's

I did not however run Crystaldiskmark so this was under normal usage and not stressing the hard drives. Since i have 2 barracuda's there operating temp is 60c.

In terms of the fans that i have, They are set to low speed under
Also in terms of fans. I have them set to run at low speeds until the 65C cpu threshold hits and they ramp up to near max.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> FD fans don't run well when in horizontal inverted position, they vibrate. At least both my FD R4 fans do.


I was talking more about the temperatures. Sure I wouldn't use a crappy sleeve bearing fan for horizontal position.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> GPU over 80C on load is not good :/ But I get it, that's what Nvidia sets their card fan profiles for to keep the cards quieter and burn them instead until they throttle performance by reducing boost clock and voltage, which I guess is at 85C.


These cards are fine until over 90C, that's when real throttling starts. For example GM204's max temperature is 98C, for GM200 it's 92C for 980 Ti and 91C for Titan X. Anything below that is good.
And why are you whining about the cards reducing boost clock? It's not guaranteed. All you're gonna get is the base clock. Anything higher than that is just extra.
Also nvidia setting card profiles? That's an Asus card with Asus cooler. All nvidia does is it defines a stock target temperature which can be adjusted according to ones needs. For example 84C is nowhere near too hot. Quite a normal temperature after all.
And there's a thing called custom fan profile. If you're not happy with the temperatures, increase the fan speed..

"to keep the cards quieter and burn them instead" LOL is all I have to say.

Who's the one "burning" GPU's here?








http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/AMD/R9_290X/32.html
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/AMD/R9_290/30.html

And here's the Strix 980 with it's stock fan profile vs the quietest 290X TPU has reviewed.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*


The milk machine.

lagittaja: 980 165W (but in reality breaches it), 780Ti/980Ti 250W
280x 250W, 290 3xxW unofficial

The reference blower on 290s is awful.

To each their own, if someone wants to cook their components why not. Yeah some cards do allow custom fan profiles to a certain degree. Reference blowers usually suck, but then I haven't seen a blower fan that didn't compared to normal fans.
I take boost clock as guaranteed, as in the cooling should be efficient enough to keep the clock at maximum. Which is not an issue for 280x at least. But for some other cards it seems to be when they are hitting their power, amp. or temp. limit. If a card can't do it I look elsewhere for a better product.


----------



## khemist

Well done!, looks great.


----------



## chuckfarnham

@ anotheraznguy - Nice build









Just finished up my Define S build and thought I would share...

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/chu...f-44ee-b424-88851f636ef8_zpstqvwxst4.jpg.html
http://s30.photobucket.com/user/chu...1-49aa-8bc4-27401cccd232_zpsnn9hhtg2.jpg.html
http://s30.photobucket.com/user/chu...3-44f4-a3aa-4dd132e486a7_zpstfhglz7m.jpg.html
http://s30.photobucket.com/user/chu...6-4a33-b560-9556fc754a4f_zpss16qyprz.jpg.html
http://s30.photobucket.com/user/chu...1-4b80-a962-3fd14df9a352_zpsx1z74shk.jpg.html
http://s30.photobucket.com/user/chu...b-46e5-87d2-d357c93d6c72_zps5ans563z.jpg.html


----------



## anotheraznguy

@chuckfarnham

Looking good too. Were you not able to fit the rear fan? looks like you are running a 420 rad up top. And i also see you somehow squeezed in a bottom fan.

Have you tested your idle and load temps yet?

One thing i noticed w/ the Define S is that at idle with my fans moving extremely slow, my VRM temps will start heating up to 60C idle.


----------



## chuckfarnham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> @chuckfarnham
> 
> Looking good too. Were you not able to fit the rear fan? looks like you are running a 420 rad up top. And i also see you somehow squeezed in a bottom fan.
> 
> Have you tested your idle and load temps yet?
> 
> One thing i noticed w/ the Define S is that at idle with my fans moving extremely slow, my VRM temps will start heating up to 60C idle.


Yeah with the 420 rad up top you lose the rear fan. I didn't realize that when I was planning out the build. So I added the intake fan at the bottom of the case to help with airflow. That way I have 3 intake fans and 3 exhaust fans.

Here are what I have recorded temps wise. My office stays around 24C.

CPU idles around 28C and hottest core at load with Prime95 hits 64C (overclocked to 4.4Ghz @ 1.248V)

GPUs idle at 25C and hottest while gaming has been 44C (Crysis 3 Maxed out @ 144hz)

I'm really happy with the GPU temps. On air they would quickly get to 80C+


----------



## stephen427

Im getting the new fractal case design S and going to work with the 140mm fans and a H110 cooler at front of the case as I want to keep sound levels down and would not prefer to mount it on top of case even if it is slightly worse.

So would this work?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> 
> 
> Im getting the new fractal case design S and going to work with the 140mm fans and a H110 cooler at front of the case as I want to keep sound levels down and would not prefer to mount it on top of case even if it is slightly worse.
> 
> So would this work?


yes


----------



## pcrevolution

Wow wow. So many Define S builds.

If not for this case, I wouldn't have moved from mITX to ATX again.

Currently still awaiting for Skylake before I get a new mobo CPU combo. Also waiting for my new 360mm radiator before I remove the TT AIO cooler and complete the loop.


----------



## smoke2

I'm planning to buy one bottom fan into my Fractal R4.
All my fans are regulated on 7V.
I have two 140mm Fractal Dynamic GP in front.
The problem is I must to buy 120mm fan because of PSU dimensions.
I'm happy with Dynamic GP, but 120mm series have 1200 RPM in comparision with 1000 RPM 140mm version.
I know Fractal is reporting only 0,5dB difference in noise, but think 200 RPM difference could be much more hearable.
Now I'm afraid it will be too much noisy, if I will buy 120mm fan.
I don't know how much are 120mm noisy or what could I do to preserve my rig as quiet as now.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quite honestly, i am not all to impressed w/ the Dynamic GP fans. The 140mm moves slow and quiet but it hardly move any air as a case fan.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> I'm planning to buy one bottom fan into my Fractal R4.
> All my fans are regulated on 7V.
> I have two 140mm Fractal Dynamic GP in front.
> The problem is I must to buy 120mm fan because of PSU dimensions.
> I'm happy with Dynamic GP, but 120mm series have 1200 RPM in comparision with 1000 RPM 140mm version.
> I know Fractal is reporting only 0,5dB difference in noise, but think 200 RPM difference could be much more hearable.
> Now I'm afraid it will be too much noisy, if I will buy 120mm fan.
> I don't know how much are 120mm noisy or what could I do to preserve my rig as quiet as now.


A 120mm and a 140mm fan spinning at the same speed. Guess which one is louder?
The 140mm fan. It's because of the bigger diameter.

_S = d/t_
Speed, S, simply being a change in Distance over a change in Time.

Let's assume a rotor diameter of 12cm and a rotation rate of 1200rpm.

Distance in this case is the circumference of C of the rotor's circle

C = π D

So

C = π * 12cm
C = 37.69cm

therefore

S = 37.69cm * 1200rpm
S = 45288cm/min

452.88 meters per minute translates to 27.17 kilometers per hour

Let's now calculate with 140mm..

C = π * 14cm
C = 43.98
S = 43.98 * 1200rpm
S = 52778cm/min

Or 527.78m/min ~ 31.66km/h

In other words the speed that the tip of the blade is traveling increased by almost as much as diameter increase was if you kept the same speed. 16.52% vs 16.66%.
That's why a 140mm fan running at 1200rpm is louder than a 120mm fan running at the same speed, 1200rpm.

If you calculate with 140mm and 1000rpm you get.. 26.38km/h..

tl;dr go ahead and buy the GP-12, it's not going to be louder.

P.S. I thought you already had an intake fan in the bottom slot of your R4? And if you do, did you experiment with it by stopping it with your rig under load like I recommended you (#12688) to see if you even need to have a bottom intake along with the two front GP-14's?

EDIT:

Of course there is more to in fan design than just the diameter that affects noise/performance. How big the overall blade area is, what kind of angle of attack it has, how large/small the center hub is, what kind of angle does the blade's trailing edge meet the hub struts at, what kind of radius the leading tip of the blade has and so on.

For the love of God.. Use your damn common sense and brains people, this is a simple calculation assuming both fans have the same blade geometry and the only thing different is the diameter.


----------



## smoke2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> A 120mm and a 140mm fan spinning at the same speed. Guess which one is louder?
> The 140mm fan. It's because of the bigger diameter.
> 
> _S = d/t_
> Speed, S, simply being a change in Distance over a change in Time.
> 
> Let's assume a rotor diameter of 12cm and a rotation rate of 1200rpm.
> 
> Distance in this case is the circumference of C of the rotor's circle
> 
> C = π D
> 
> So
> 
> C = π * 12cm
> C = 37.69cm
> 
> therefore
> 
> S = 37.69cm * 1200rpm
> S = 45288cm/min
> 
> 452.88 meters per minute translates to 27.17 kilometers per hour
> 
> Let's now calculate with 140mm..
> 
> C = π * 14cm
> C = 43.98
> S = 43.98 * 1200rpm
> S = 52778cm/min
> 
> Or 527.78m/min ~ 31.66km/h
> 
> In other words the speed that the tip of the blade is traveling increased by almost as much as diameter increase was if you kept the same speed. 16.52% vs 16.66%.
> That's why a 140mm fan running at 1200rpm is louder than a 120mm fan running at the same speed, 1200rpm.
> 
> If you calculate with 140mm and 1000rpm you get.. 26.38km/h..
> 
> tl;dr go ahead and buy the GP-12, it's not going to be louder.
> 
> P.S. I thought you already had an intake fan in the bottom slot of your R4? And if you do, did you experiment with it by stopping it with your rig under load like I recommended you (#12688) to see if you even need to have a bottom intake along with the two front GP-14's?


Thanks


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> A 120mm and a 140mm fan spinning at the same speed. Guess which one is louder?
> The 140mm fan. It's because of the bigger diameter.
> 
> _S = d/t_
> Speed, S, simply being a change in Distance over a change in Time.
> 
> Let's assume a rotor diameter of 12cm and a rotation rate of 1200rpm.
> 
> Distance in this case is the circumference of C of the rotor's circle
> 
> C = π D
> 
> So
> 
> C = π * 12cm
> C = 37.69cm
> 
> therefore
> 
> S = 37.69cm * 1200rpm
> S = 45288cm/min
> 
> 452.88 meters per minute translates to 27.17 kilometers per hour
> 
> Let's now calculate with 140mm..
> 
> C = π * 14cm
> C = 43.98
> S = 43.98 * 1200rpm
> S = 52778cm/min
> 
> Or 527.78m/min ~ 31.66km/h
> 
> In other words the speed that the tip of the blade is traveling increased by almost as much as diameter increase was if you kept the same speed. 16.52% vs 16.66%.
> That's why a 140mm fan running at 1200rpm is louder than a 120mm fan running at the same speed, 1200rpm.
> 
> If you calculate with 140mm and 1000rpm you get.. 26.38km/h..
> 
> tl;dr go ahead and buy the GP-12, it's not going to be louder.


This assumes both fans have the same blade profile. It is possible for the bigger fan to be quieter if it is designed to be so.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> A 120mm and a 140mm fan spinning at the same speed. Guess which one is louder?
> The 140mm fan. It's because of the bigger diameter.
> 
> _S = d/t_
> Speed, S, simply being a change in Distance over a change in Time.
> 
> Let's assume a rotor diameter of 12cm and a rotation rate of 1200rpm.
> 
> Distance in this case is the circumference of C of the rotor's circle
> 
> C = π D
> 
> So
> 
> C = π * 12cm
> C = 37.69cm
> 
> therefore
> 
> S = 37.69cm * 1200rpm
> S = 45288cm/min
> 
> 452.88 meters per minute translates to 27.17 kilometers per hour
> 
> Let's now calculate with 140mm..
> 
> C = π * 14cm
> C = 43.98
> S = 43.98 * 1200rpm
> S = 52778cm/min
> 
> Or 527.78m/min ~ 31.66km/h
> 
> In other words the speed that the tip of the blade is traveling increased by almost as much as diameter increase was if you kept the same speed. 16.52% vs 16.66%.
> *That's why a 140mm fan running at 1200rpm is louder than a 120mm fan running at the same speed, 1200rpm.*
> 
> If you calculate with 140mm and 1000rpm you get.. 26.38km/h..
> 
> tl;dr go ahead and buy the GP-12, it's not going to be louder.
> 
> P.S. I thought you already had an intake fan in the bottom slot of your R4? And if you do, did you experiment with it by stopping it with your rig under load like I recommended you (#12688) to see if you even need to have a bottom intake along with the two front GP-14's?


While all of this is true, 140mm fans are generally run slower than their 120mm counterparts while moving more air
For example the
PH-F120SP
Speed (RPM) 1300 ± 250 rpm
Blade Geometry Nine Blades with MVB(Maelström Vortex Booster) Design
Max Airflow 54.4 CFM
Acoustical Noise 24.2 dB (A)
Static Pressure 1.29 mm H2O
PH-F140SP
Blade Geometry Nine Colored Blades with MVB(Maelström Vortex Booster) Design
Speed (RPM) 1200 ± 250 rpm
Max Airflow 82.1 CFM
Acoustical Noise 19 dB (A)

Static Pressure 1.33mm H2O
5.2dBA quieter with 27.7cfm more airflow at similar pressure/resistance.

This even carries on to bigger fans like
PH-F200SP
Blade Geometry Nine Blades with MVB(Maelström Vortex Booster) Design
Speed (RPM) 800 ± 250 rpm
Max Airflow 110.1 CFM
Acoustical Noise 25 dB (A)
Static Pressure 1.04mm H2O

400rpm slower and 28cfm more airflow, but 6dBA louder. (because of blade surface speed).


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> This assumes both fans have the same blade profile. It is possible for the bigger fan to be quieter if it is designed to be so.


Of course it assumes..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> While all of this is true, 140mm fans are generally run slower than their 120mm counterparts while moving more air


Oh really. Gee I didn't know that


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Of course it assumes..
> Oh really. Gee I didn't know that


Really?








And I thought you were one of the smart ones.








The explanation was not at you, but for others who do not know what I think you do.


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I thought you were one of the smart ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The explanation was not at you, but for others who do not know what I think you do.


Mine too.


----------



## Jyve

Hey there! I have a question.

I have an arc mini r2. Does anyone know if I can install a swiftech h220x up top as well as a 120mm rad + fan in the rear all while retaining the 5 1/4 bracket in front?

I'm guessing no by the few pics online I've seen with the h220x installed but thought I'd ask and maybe get confirmation.


----------



## 97discosd

my main is in an mini r2, there is no way to make that work with the 5.25 bays.


----------



## Jyve

That's what I figured. Bummer really. I have an r9 290 cooled with a corsair hg10/h55 setup and use that rear 120 as the exhaust for it. I suppose I could run it to the bottom 120. I'd rather not use the front as those are intakes.

End game will be a full cover block incorporated into the h220x loop.


----------



## 97discosd

If you didnt use the bays you could push the cooler to the more forward of the three 120 holes and possibly make it work. i have had an xspx ex360(top) and ek xfx 240(front) with a slim 120 back fan. i woulkd think if you didnt use the bayus its possible. do you have a drive in the bay or a fan controller. ive cut mine up to hold one fan controller and hod to down size the top ran to a slim 240


----------



## anotheraznguy

Redid my loop a bit on the Define S and decided to add some leds



and a video.

__
http://instagr.am/p/325iiWPhL1%2F/


----------



## Hilikus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I have an r9 290 cooled with a corsair hg10/h55 setup and use that rear 120 as the exhaust for it. I suppose I could run it to the bottom 120..


I've got a similar setup with a 290X and H80. H105 cooling the CPU is up top with the H80 in the lowest front fan position. Not ideal but the temps are solid and a hell of a lot better than stock (around 55°C for both is the highest I've seen them).


----------



## Jyve

Unfortunately I need that drive bay in mine. I have 5 mech drives and an ssd. This PC serves 3 jobs. Gaming, htpc, media server. The 5 1/4 bays are for 2 hot swap caddies and the lower cage is full.

Ideally I'd like to get that second cage in and remove the caddies, opening up options for rads up top. Don't think it'll happen as the 290 is just a hair too long and even the 970 I'm eyeing is as well. Might have to go with that shorter zotac 970.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Unfortunately I need that drive bay in mine. I have 5 mech drives and an ssd. This PC serves 3 jobs. Gaming, htpc, media server. The 5 1/4 bays are for 2 hot swap caddies and the lower cage is full.
> 
> Ideally I'd like to get that second cage in and remove the caddies, opening up options for rads up top. Don't think it'll happen as the 290 is just a hair too long and even the 970 I'm eyeing is as well. Might have to go with that shorter zotac 970.


my evga 970 is not too long. The gigabyte gaming g1 is the one thats huge


----------



## Hilikus

Yeah, the reference design EVGA 970 is quite short. Check out the green molecule arc mini r2 build as he needed a short card for that, I think he got the superclocked model with the reference blower cooler.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> That's what I figured. Bummer really. I have an r9 290 cooled with a corsair hg10/h55 setup and use that rear 120 as the exhaust for it. I suppose I could run it to the bottom 120. I'd rather not use the front as those are intakes.
> 
> End game will be a full cover block incorporated into the h220x loop.


Mount the 120 rear outside behind the case. Otherwise find a place for it inside elsewhere.


----------



## falcon26

Is the Define S the same size as the R5? Or is it shorter or narrower?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon26*
> 
> Is the Define S the same size as the R5? Or is it shorter or narrower?


R5: 232 x 451 x 521mm
S: 233 x 451 x 520mm

So basically they are the same. Inside diameters may vary depending how motherboard tray is placed. But as both can hold cpu cooler up to 180mm high, I guess their motherboard tray is placed identically.


----------



## sakete

Hi guys, thinking of rigging up two AIO solutions on my R5 for GPU/CPU. I don't want to mount anything up top as I like the noise insulation there. I'm also using the lower drive cage with 3 magnetic HDDs in there and one SSD on the back of the motherboard tray. Plan on going with a Kraken X31 as rear exhaust for GPU. Not sure what to go for with the CPU though. Would like to get a 240/280mm rad such as H100i, but don't know if it will fit considering my needs.

Appreciate any thoughts. Thanks!


----------



## anotheraznguy

Had a quick question for those guys with the R5/S and Watercooled. Right now i am seeing my temps get pretty high. With the filter and front panel on, the CPU will hit 70 degrees while gaming and the gpu's will hit 60C.

The moment i remove the filter and front panel all the temps drop an additional 10 degrees C. Is this normal for you guys?


----------



## ZC4065

Hi guys, thinking of getting a Define S soon, need a decent watercooling case. I have a 200mm long PSU, would it fit alright?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Had a quick question for those guys with the R5/S and Watercooled. Right now i am seeing my temps get pretty high. With the filter and front panel on, the CPU will hit 70 degrees while gaming and the gpu's will hit 60C.
> 
> The moment i remove the filter and front panel all the temps drop an additional 10 degrees C. Is this normal for you guys?


Dust filter and the door restrict airflow. Business as usual. What kind of cooling setup do you have? Rads, fans, placement. And whatnot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Hi guys, thinking of getting a Define S soon, need a decent watercooling case. I have a 200mm long PSU, would it fit alright?


Well let's see what the product page says..
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-s
Quote:


> ATX PSUs up to 180/170 mm with a bottom 120/140mm fan installed; When not using any bottom fan location longer PSUs up to 300mm can be used


If you're not planning to populate the bottom fan spot you're good.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Dust filter and the door restrict airflow. Business as usual. What kind of cooling setup do you have? Rads, fans, placement. And whatnot.
> Well let's see what the product page says..
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-s
> If you're not planning to populate the bottom fan spot you're good.






Right now the rig specs are as follows
5820 @4.5 w/ 1.28 V
2 980 Ti's @ 1.23 and 1.22 V

Cooling
EK Evo CPU Block
2 EK Titan X Blocks
Intake - 1 Alphacool 280 45mm Front w/ 2 Spectre pro in Push
Exhaust -1 Alphacool 360 30mm top w/ 3 vardars in pull
Exhaust - Stock 140 Fractal Fan in the back


----------



## r34x

Here is my beloved R4 in white.



I'll play. Currently I am working on a PSU shroud for mine and trying to figure out where I can stick a 360mm radiator without heavily modifying the case. It seems as though I will be able to put the end of the radiator inside the 5.25 bay since I don't use those.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> 
> Right now the rig specs are as follows
> 5820 @4.5 w/ 1.28 V
> 2 980 Ti's @ 1.23 and 1.22 V
> 
> Cooling
> EK Evo CPU Block
> 2 EK Titan X Blocks
> Intake - 1 Alphacool 280 45mm Front w/ 2 Spectre pro in Push
> Exhaust -1 Alphacool 360 30mm top w/ 3 vardars in pull
> Exhaust - Stock 140 Fractal Fan in the back


Hmm. So you're running negative air pressure. 3x120mm + 1x140mm exhaust and 2x140mm intake. Since you had such a dramatic drop in temperature when you removed the front panel, I'd try increasing the intake a little bit.
When you removed the front panel and the dust filter, you removed a lot of the restriction the front intakes have. Maybe you should simply try the stock 140 in the rear as an intake instead of exhaust. As in trying to feed the top rad a little more cool air so that doesn't solely rely on the hotter than ambient air the front rad is offering it. I've seen a lot of people with top rads (exhaust) running their rear fan as an intake.

Or if you don't want dust in your case and your rads I'd consider moving the rear exhaust to the front all together. That would probably make it relatively positive pressure, I think. Too bad with your 1000 G2 there's no room for a bottom intake.


----------



## Nemesis429

Also if you have 2 intake 4 exhaust you will have dust issues, more going out then you do coming in. go 3 exhaust 3 intake.


----------



## lagittaja

Indeed. Shame his/her 280 is a 45mm. With a 30mm 280 the loop could've been a 280 top and 360 front. 3 120's intaking and 2 140's exhausting.

With 3 140's intaking and 3 120's exhausting you'll probably have a positive air pressure in your case even with the restrictions the front causes, with the third 140 not being restricted by the rad. At least it won't be negative.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> Had a quick question for those guys with the R5/S and Watercooled. Right now i am seeing my temps get pretty high. With the filter and front panel on, the CPU will hit 70 degrees while gaming and the gpu's will hit 60C.
> 
> The moment i remove the filter and front panel all the temps drop an additional 10 degrees C. Is this normal for you guys?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> 
> Right now the rig specs are as follows
> 5820 @4.5 w/ 1.28 V
> 2 980 Ti's @ 1.23 and 1.22 V
> 
> Cooling
> EK Evo CPU Block
> 2 EK Titan X Blocks
> Intake - 1 Alphacool 280 45mm Front w/ 2 Spectre pro in Push
> Exhaust -1 Alphacool 360 30mm top w/ 3 vardars in pull
> Exhaust - Stock 140 Fractal Fan in the back


That seems pretty bad restriction. And you lack any intakes for the second radiator so it gets only hot air.
I would prefer push on rad instead of pull. Add an extra intake on bottom, rear as intake too will probably help. I suppose you don't have a side fan position.
And cut out all the silly restrictive grills FD still uses like all case makers.


----------



## anotheraznguy

So, i was able to add another 120mm in the front and made no difference in temps of the cpu/gpu it did lower mobo and vrm by 2c with the filter/panel off

In order to flip the rear i will have to drain the loop and take it apart to get to the fan. I'll prob try that later. Also i cannot add a fan on the bottom as the power supply covers it up pretty good.


----------



## robbo2

Upgraded my R3 to an R5. The R5 is a much better case for cable management.


----------



## Mnemo05

done some cleaning ang rearranged my rad configuration as well to make way for a possible 980 slii

will be modding the g10 to fit 2 in there


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> So, i was able to add another 120mm in the front and made no difference in temps of the cpu/gpu it did lower mobo and vrm by 2c with the filter/panel off
> 
> In order to flip the rear i will have to drain the loop and take it apart to get to the fan. I'll prob try that later. Also i cannot add a fan on the bottom as the power supply covers it up pretty good.


Is that an EVGA 1600W overkill?
Your cooling simply lacks fresh cold air, both the front rad due to filters and other restrictions and the top rad that only gets already hot air.

With R4/S the bottom might need to be cut for the fan in an offset position. R5 is better in terms of fans and filters. S is an R4/5 clone.
No cages so you should be able to fit a bottom fan even if it's only a 120.

I wouldn't bother switching pull to push and taking it apart :/

But definitely put as many fans as intake as possible, bottom, rear, front, any place possible.
Leave only top rad as exhaust. Cut all grills and restrictions out.

Or, don't use filters, grills, front panel, side panel, etc. anything that restricts air


----------



## Kho73

Mnemo05, is that Swiftech 220x or the 240x?


----------



## Mnemo05

^I have the H220-X with fans running at 5v, controlled by the Arc Mini R2 controller..


----------



## Kho73

Thanks for the info, still deciding whether should go for the 240x or not.


----------



## Mnemo05

^not much difference between the 2 in terms of performance

although I would imagine that the H240-X will be a better choose should you choose to expand the loop


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Is that an EVGA 1600W overkill?
> Your cooling simply lacks fresh cold air, both the front rad due to filters and other restrictions and the top rad that only gets already hot air.
> 
> With R4/S the bottom might need to be cut for the fan in an offset position. R5 is better in terms of fans and filters. S is an R4/5 clone.
> No cages so you should be able to fit a bottom fan even if it's only a 120.
> 
> I wouldn't bother switching pull to push and taking it apart :/
> 
> But definitely put as many fans as intake as possible, bottom, rear, front, any place possible.
> Leave only top rad as exhaust. Cut all grills and restrictions out.
> 
> Or, don't use filters, grills, front panel, side panel, etc. anything that restricts air


So i am doing some modding right now that should help w/ intake. Already flipped the rear fan as an intake and it dropped temps across the board 2C at load with filters and front panel on. I was able to find a spare 120mm that does fit in the top. Just need to pick up a non LED version and i am good.

Also, the PSU is a 1200 P2. I wanted it to stay in eco mode as much as possible.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



And some WIP

Masked everything up and did a 30mm dept cut inside



Picked up some Steel Sheet



Whoops, cut it too short. I guess i should use a measuring tape next time.



Second one already cut and primed w/ self etching primer. Also wet sanded and has been painted black as well



Now to let the paint cure for 24 hours before i can Epoxy it onto the front cover. For now my computer will sit semi naked


----------



## afallickwang

I use a Fractal Design Define R4 in white for my main rig and love it!

They have the best designs methinks for their cases.


----------



## pcrevolution

Finally done with my rig.

My only quirm is the AsRock Z97E ITX. Was a mITX user but when I found the Fractal Design Define S, I knew I found the case. No doubt Phanteks is also another option, but I personally prefer the large square windows much like the Corsair 750Ds, 800Ds and 900Ds.

No reason to change the motherboard and CPU combo since Skylake is just around the corner.

Will probably be doing some painting or ordering some vinyl stickers but the pastel green is a tad hard to find and match.












Just a personal observation for anyone that wants to do hardline tubing:

Try to avoid using rotary fittings and try as much as possible to rely on bending the tubing. Tubing of incorrect length/angle places enormous strain on the rotary fittings and often causes them to leak.


----------



## khemist

Looks brilliant!.


----------



## z0mbeh

Loving the case so far! I think will be perfect for my first attempt at water cooling with a custom loop.


----------



## axipher

Been a while, but looking to water cool this little white beast again and potentially add a little fury to this thing, the i5-760 at 3.3 GHz seems to be holding it's own and it's my 7950 that's holding me back.


----------



## JackCY

Fury X, enough said.


----------



## G227

Quick question. I have mounted a radiator on bottom of my R5 and would like to get some more clearance for the air to escape - i.e. *I need taller case feet*. Does anybody have any recommendation?

Thanks!


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G227*
> 
> Quick question. I have mounted a radiator on bottom of my R5 and would like to get some more clearance for the air to escape - i.e. *I need taller case feet*. Does anybody have any recommendation?
> 
> Thanks!


So you push air from your case trough radiator that is mounted on case floor? am not familiar with water cooling that much but sure you would like to reconsider putting you fan other way around so it takes air from below? Generally all bottom mounted fans are intake.


----------



## G227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> So you push air from your case trough radiator that is mounted on case floor? am not familiar with water cooling that much but sure you would like to reconsider putting you fan other way around so it takes air from below? Generally all bottom mounted fans are intake.


I'm going for a complete silent build so that eliminates top mounting of radiators. Thus I can put the radiator in the back, in the front and in the bottom. First - I can't put the radiator as intake because I'm running 1 - and will run 2 Titan Xs heavily overclocked each pulling about 350W with modded BIOSes. Pulling 350W or 700W respectively of heat into the case is a suicide - or at least its much better to exhaust it (provided you get sufficient intake).

Now as per placement itself:

- As stated top is not possible due to noise (not even from the readiator but from pumps etc.)
- I'm not putting it in the back because I have Noctua NH-D15S so it would get hot air and will eventually have two of them (I have two 120AIO GPUs).
- Putting the radiators in front and letting that hot air from my Titan X in the case (around 350W of it







) into the case is a suicide as I mentioned







. I have tried creating a custom shroud that then exhausted the air through the bottom exhaust, but it was a lot of husstle and when I simply placed the radiator as an exhaust on the bottom and saw temps drop ~5C.
- So bottom exhaust it is









I have 2x 140mm (Phanteks F140SP) & 1x120mm (Gentle typhoon AP-14) as front intake (I took out all cages and fitted that 120 in their place on top - works great) which gives me enough air in. I have one 140 exhuast in the end and then the 120 exhaust through radiator (soon to be 2x120) in the bottom. In witcher 3 - max GPU 60C (mostly running ~57-58C) and max CPU 59C (in AIDA stress test it gets to 80, but thats not real usage for me) - plus thats with fans at around 80% (1000rpm).


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G227*
> 
> I'm going for a complete silent build so that eliminates top mounting of radiators. Thus I can put the radiator in the back, in the front and in the bottom. First - I can't put the radiator as intake because I'm running 1 - and will run 2 Titan Xs heavily overclocked each pulling about 350W with modded BIOSes. Pulling 350W or 700W respectively of heat into the case is a suicide - or at least its much better to exhaust it (provided you get sufficient intake).
> 
> Now as per placement itself:
> 
> - As stated top is not possible due to noise (not even from the readiator but from pumps etc.)
> - I'm not putting it in the back because I have Noctua NH-D15S so it would get hot air and will eventually have two of them (I have two 120AIO GPUs).
> - Putting the radiators in front and letting that hot air from my Titan X in the case (around 350W of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) into the case is a suicide as I mentioned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have tried creating a custom shroud that then exhausted the air through the bottom exhaust, but it was a lot of husstle and when I simply placed the radiator as an exhaust on the bottom and saw temps drop ~5C.
> - So bottom exhaust it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have 2x 140mm (Phanteks F140SP) & 1x120mm (Gentle typhoon AP-14) as front intake (I took out all cages and fitted that 120 in their place on top - works great) which gives me enough air in. I have one 140 exhuast in the end and then the 120 exhaust through radiator (soon to be 2x120) in the bottom. In witcher 3 - max GPU 60C (mostly running ~57-58C) and max CPU 59C (in AIDA stress test it gets to 80, but thats not real usage for me) - plus thats with fans at around 80% (1000rpm).


I get your point. I would then recommend any larger hardware store or furniture store and look (ask staff) large, cylindrical rubber feet. I am sure you'll find something tha is easy to mod there and will rise case high enough


----------



## JackCY

Feet are easy, many options.

1) buy custom feet, don't remember the shop but they do exist
2) buy some generic feet at hardware/whatever store, if you can find such store
3) make 'em: rubber (I've used 1 inch thick rubber to create spacers from it), wood, print them in any shape you like, ... cut two pieces of wood and stuck it under your case, use your imagination, magnetic levitation, ...
4) abandon bottom fan exhaust and create a side exhaust instead or mount the radiators outside behind case if you have the space, ... frankenstein monster
5) create a hood on top that will bounce the noise to the back when using top exhaust


----------



## schmotty

What is this radiator cooling? Do you really want to be pulling the hot air from the Titans through it?


----------



## Asymmetry

Do really like fractal cases, build quality is great.

This is my Fractal 804, its a HTPC/Gaming PC, dual water loop setup

build log;

http://www.overclock.net/t/1480841/htpc-to-dual-water-gaming-pc-htpc-evolution-fight-to-defeat-heat-and-noise#post_23414843

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht1_zps871699e0.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht2_zpsbf404e5e.jpg.html


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asymmetry*
> 
> Do really like fractal cases, build quality is great.
> 
> This is my Fractal 804, its a HTPC/Gaming PC, dual water loop setup
> 
> build log;
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1480841/htpc-to-dual-water-gaming-pc-htpc-evolution-fight-to-defeat-heat-and-noise#post_23414843
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht1_zps871699e0.jpg.html
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/xdr01/media/PC/ht2_zpsbf404e5e.jpg.html


Does look like a subwoofer from afar!


----------



## G227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Feet are easy, many options.
> 
> 1) buy custom feet, don't remember the shop but they do exist
> 2) buy some generic feet at hardware/whatever store, if you can find such store
> 3) make 'em: rubber (I've used 1 inch thick rubber to create spacers from it), wood, print them in any shape you like, ... cut two pieces of wood and stuck it under your case, use your imagination, magnetic levitation, ...
> 4) abandon bottom fan exhaust and create a side exhaust instead or mount the radiators outside behind case if you have the space, ... frankenstein monster
> 5) create a hood on top that will bounce the noise to the back when using top exhaust


Thanks - these are some good recommendations! I won't be able to do the side exhaust because of the silence thing - I guess I could put the case facing the other way, but mounting the radiator on the side panel would be pain (taking it off every time I took the side out or it just sort of hanging there). The top with a custom shroud is a good idea if not for the NH-D15S which is too big to route the AIO tubing around. Plus it would fight over air with it. I would have to switch to 140AiO for the CPU and have it as an exhaust in the back. But it gives me an option which is good







. But maybe I could add the shroud to the bottom as well directing the airflow/noise away from me. I'll try the stores for now.

New question:

If I will want to run two 120 AIOs on the bottom I will need to push my PSU "out" of the case because it's too long to fit (200mm EVGA P2 1200W). I'm thinking I would cut the small pieces holding the PSU and just sort of left it sticking out.

Either that or do what I wrote with two 120 on top with the shroud and switch to CPU AIO in the back. Which do you think is better? My main concern with the top exhaust is the added noise even with the shroud - not really during gaming, but on idle. The more I think about it though, the more I think that the bottom exhaust is probably not that much quieter than the top since I have the case like 10cm from the ground and don't have the shroud there yet so th sound sort of bounces everywhere. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> What is this radiator cooling? Do you really want to be pulling the hot air from the Titans through it?


Why not? It keeps them a lot cooler than the stock blower fan. I max out on 61c with closed front door (57c with those opened). That is running with custom BIOS @1.261V @1475MHz on core & 8GHz on memory







. It's the EVGA Hybrid AIO for 980. They sell the same thing now for Titan X itself (literally the same thing







).


----------



## JackCY

Your options are limited, I think that when one wants to go water and 2xGPU it's best to just make a custom loop for it all.
I don't use top fan but the bottom is not quieter than any other front/rear case fan.

With the D15 you block most of top and rear, making only option to put a radiator is front and bottom, which are not good positions for a rad. With modding you could use the sides.

Pursuing quiet PC with 2xGPU(500W) is futile, want to go quiet, need low power. With power always comes heat and noise and the more cooling you need the more money it will cost.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> With the D15 you block most of top and rear, making only option to put a radiator is front and bottom, which are not good positions for a rad.


Could you explain why you say the front is not a good position for a radiator?
Thanks...


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Could you explain why you say the front is not a good position for a radiator?
> Thanks...


With a rad in front as intake it is blowing hot air back across the components it just removed the heat from.

Thats why I only used a 140mm rad in front with fans in both slots. That way the heat from the front rad is getting mixed with cool air coming in from the lower front and bottom fan.

I prefer all rads as intakes though. That puts the coldest air possible over the rads. I also use the filters. I know it costs me air flow but I love how clean the inside stays. I even added a Demci filter on the top when I removed the moduvents.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Could you explain why you say the front is not a good position for a radiator?
> Thanks...


Because you exhaust the heat into the case and not outside of it, making all other cooling much less efficient and also the radiator less efficient, it's to a certain degree like feeding the hot air exhaust back as the radiator intake, this happens by blowing the heat back onto your GPU and CPU, the heat circles and builds up. Want a radiator, put it as exhaust not intake. But with the limited options in standard cases you will often see front+top rad. combination.
Personally I would rather create a chamber in front instead of cages, which you will have to remove with front rad. anyway, and blow air out on the side, create a chamber and separate the area from rest of the case.
You can blow side to side or front to side, doesn't matter really. But people often get a windowed case and want to show it off, don't mod really, just buy and slap it together as it comes from the shop. Taking the time and effort to create a chamber when using front rad., well I've hardly seen it yet.


----------



## smithydan

While it has certain merit, I have never felt hot air come from my rad, slightly warmer than ambient but never enough to alter gpu temps. My h105 blowed into my case and the air wan not hot even when I have the cpu stressed out the produce heat. What I do know is having a rad at the top as exhaust uses the hot air produce by the gpu making the cpu run hotter than the front setup. When I had my 350d the best place for the rad was in the front which kept everyone's temps happy.

Each setup reaps different results so test to see.


----------



## SlvrDragon50

There's nothing wrong with intaking air through the rads into the case. The temp inside the case is negligible compared to the water blocks on the processors. The only case where I wouldn't intake through the rads is if the GPU is air cooled while the CPU is water cooled.

You get better temperatures if all your rads are intake.


----------



## G227

Hi guys - thanks for the previous answers - helped a lot!

Now I'm toying with the idea of full custom loop - never tried it before, but would like to see if I can make it happen. I'm planning to cool 5820K @1.25V @4.5GHz and eventually two overlclocked Titan Xs (now have one - but each pulls about 330-360W of power)

I'm thinking:

FRONT: 2x140intake
TOP: 360 radiator exhaust (something like Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Full Copper 360mm)
BACK: 1x140 intake
BOTTOM: 140 radiator exhaust (something like Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 140mm)

Now the other way around would be to have the smaller radiator in the back and the back 140 intake in the bottom instead - but I'm not sure if there wouldn't be clearance issues between the 140 in the back and 360 in the top? I'm thinking of running push pull on both the rads.

So the questions:
1) Is this a plausible setup? I see a lot of people adding another radiator in the front, but then there is not "fresh intake" which has me worried
2) Would there be clearance for the smaller radiator in the back? If so - is it better to have it in the back or in the top?
3) Cooling wise - is it better to run slimmer 420 (not even sure I could have it as push pull) on top or like I have the 360?

Any other suggestions welcomed! Thank you very much!


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *G227*
> 
> Hi guys - thanks for the previous answers - helped a lot!
> 
> Now I'm toying with the idea of full custom loop - never tried it before, but would like to see if I can make it happen. I'm planning to cool 5820K @1.25V @4.5GHz and eventually two overlclocked Titan Xs (now have one - but each pulls about 330-360W of power)
> 
> I'm thinking:
> 
> FRONT: 2x140intake
> TOP: 360 radiator exhaust (something like Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Full Copper 360mm)
> BACK: 1x140 intake
> BOTTOM: 140 radiator exhaust (something like Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 140mm)
> 
> Now the other way around would be to have the smaller radiator in the back and the back 140 intake in the bottom instead - but I'm not sure if there wouldn't be clearance issues between the 140 in the back and 360 in the top? I'm thinking of running push pull on both the rads.
> 
> So the questions:
> 1) Is this a plausible setup? I see a lot of people adding another radiator in the front, but then there is not "fresh intake" which has me worried
> 2) Would there be clearance for the smaller radiator in the back? If so - is it better to have it in the back or in the top?
> 3) Cooling wise - is it better to run slimmer 420 (not even sure I could have it as push pull) on top or like I have the 360?
> 
> Any other suggestions welcomed! Thank you very much!


About copper rads. This question once in a while pops out: does it matter if some blocks are (and rads) are copper and others aluminium? From electrochemical point it does matter, but is it a problem in real life or just in chemistry calculations?


----------



## lagittaja

It's a real life problem. Mixing aluminium and copper in the same loop is bad.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> It's a real life problem. Mixing aluminium and copper in the same loop is bad.


That's what I thought. Combined with tube connections made from third metal, there is high possibility of corrosion then. It is hard to imagine there would be a hole in rad because of corrosion, but unified layer of corrosion makes (catastrofic) things for thermal transfer.

Ps, hello Lagittaja. Sincerely, Contay from Muro.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> That's what I thought. Combined with tube connections made from third metal, there is high possibility of corrosion then. It is hard to imagine there would be a hole in rad because of corrosion, but unified layer of corrosion makes (catastrofic) things for thermal transfer.
> 
> Ps, hello Lagittaja. Sincerely, Contay from Muro.


A little galvanic corrosion for you. What happens when Aluminum and copper/nickel meet
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1740358


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> A little galvanic corrosion for you. What happens when Aluminum and copper/nickel meet
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1740358


Abd thats why I mentioned catastrophic there. As soon-to-graduate energy engineers I'm familiar with galvanic corrosion in much larger scale (ex. Power plants and induatrial piping) but I was very curious would ot affect as much on so small system. But that was even more serious than I thought.


----------



## JackCY

If both copper and aluminium are in contact with water it's asking for trouble. If all pipes are copper then having aluminium fins is not an issue just like it's not with regular air coolers where Cu and Al are machined together, not that it doesn't show some corrosion here and there in a very long run when stored bad but as long as it's dry it it's fine.
Aren't fittings stainless or with surface being chromed/painted/whatever? Tubes often some plastic or rubber. Pump probably some plastic again.


----------



## contay

Fittings are usually stainless or chrome coated yes. Pumps are plastic or ceramic and plastic usually. Would it be possible run both aluminium and copper if you have secondary tank with sacrificed metal inside (this is how they do in larger systems or how they protect ship frame). Like pieces of zinc or iron, which are lower in galvanic series than aluminium or copper. It would be simple and you could clean this additional reservoir and switch zinc pieces every time you chance liquids.

EDIT: Of course, it is just simpler to have all copper or all aluminium.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> Fittings are usually stainless or chrome coated yes. Pumps are plastic or ceramic and plastic usually. Would it be possible run both aluminium and copper if you have secondary tank with sacrificed metal inside (this is how they do in larger systems or how they protect ship frame). Like pieces of zinc or iron, which are lower in galvanic series than aluminium or copper. It would be simple and you could clean this additional reservoir and switch zinc pieces every time you chance liquids.
> 
> EDIT: Of course, it is just simpler to have all copper or all aluminium.


You can use mixed metal including aluminum in a loop. You just have to use a glycol based coolant such as automotive anti freeze to help combat corrosion.

All the aio coolers have aluminum rads with copper cpu blocks. They use a high concentration of glycol in the coolant to slowdown the corrosion enough that the pump normally dies long before any holes have formed.

I would still avoid aluminum in custom loops because copper is a much better materiel for a rad and our custom loop components cost a good bit more than a aio.


----------



## mtrapuzz

My Build

Components:
Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Corsair H110 94.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Asus Z97-PRO(Wi-Fi ac) ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Asus GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Video Card
Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
SeaSonic 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.4 CFM 140mm Fan (x6)

Personal touches:
Custom RGB lighting
Custom laser cut power supply box
Custom laser cut cable combs
Sleeved cables
Black PCI slot covers
Custom water cooling loop in the future

I use this machine every day for work, CAD, surfing the internet, image editing, and some gaming. I assembled picked out higher quality components and waited until they went on sale to buy. I really liked the Fractal Design case over any other mid ATX case so I went with it. I tried to personalize it a little bit with subtle lighting hidden in the front bezel, and a power supply box, as well as a few other things. I am planning to do a custom water cooling loop. I am thinking of getting rid of the optical drive and using a 2 x 5.25" reservoir/pump with a 280 x 80 thick reservoir up front.

As far as the R5 goes, I think with a few adjustments, this case could be perfect. I think Fractal design should move the optical bays to the bottom and separate those and the power supply with a shroud from front to back. I think they could cut the width of the case down by about half and inch, and the depth of the case down by an inch or two. I think the "moduvents" are a nice idea, but instead they should add an inch or so to the top of the case and run vents along the sides of the top (like in the front) for air to escape when using top exhaust fans.

Pictures:


----------



## Weber

I started to build for 6700K but I had parts to fire this up on air using a G3258 while I wait.


----------



## mainBORED

My contribution. Its not done though, its filled and In daily use but I have 6 new fans and a bigger reservoir coming.
But yeah, I like this case. So roomy compared to what I've been using the past couple years.


----------



## ZeroFTW

So I was wondering if anyone here has a ASUS X99-E WS motherboard in their fractal cases? I really love the cases fractal design makes and I was hoping to make a build with that motherboard but I'm worried about clearance issues.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeroFTW*
> 
> So I was wondering if anyone here has a ASUS X99-E WS motherboard in their fractal cases? I really love the cases fractal design makes and I was hoping to make a build with that motherboard but I'm worried about clearance issues.


It depends on if you want a top radiator or not.


----------



## Wirerat

Anyone successfully mounted one of the new H110i GT rads in the front of the define S ?

My only real concern is the length of the tubing. Parts are already ordered but he would rather it go with the rad in the front instead of top.


----------



## ZeroFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> It depends on if you want a top radiator or not.


Yeah, ideally I would like a top mounted radiator along with the one mounted in the front of the case with the loop I'm planning on doing.


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> There's nothing wrong with intaking air through the rads into the case. The temp inside the case is negligible compared to the water blocks on the processors. The only case where I wouldn't intake through the rads is if the GPU is air cooled while the CPU is water cooled.
> 
> You get better temperatures if all your rads are intake.


I'm pulling intake from the front on my H110 and my GPU is air cooled. My CPU stays nice and cool, especially if I keep the front door open, and I'm over 1.5vcore. The GPU gets a bit hot but only on burn tests.

I may have to turn the fans around tonight and see how that affects temps.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *schmotty*
> 
> I'm pulling intake from the front on my H110 and my GPU is air cooled. My CPU stays nice and cool, especially if I keep the front door open, and I'm over 1.5vcore. The GPU gets a bit hot but only on burn tests.
> 
> I may have to turn the fans around tonight and see how that affects temps.


what about putting a 140/120mm fan on the bottom of the case in front of the psu blowing fresh air up towards the gpu?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeroFTW*
> 
> Yeah, ideally I would like a top mounted radiator along with the one mounted in the front of the case with the loop I'm planning on doing.


You may run into problems then. I don't even have a rad in the top of my case so maybe wait around for someone who at least has that knowledge.


----------



## schmotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> what about putting a 140/120mm fan on the bottom of the case in front of the psu blowing fresh air up towards the gpu?


I have an 80mm down there now. It was a spare I had. Screw holes happen to line up well with mesh. I can't use a larger fan because I moved the lower cage over to fit the h110 up front.


----------



## dirtyhamster

My first build!
Tips/Suggestions would be much appreciated, thanks





Custom WHITE PCI-E/24Pin/CPU/SATA sleeved cords and a backplate for my EVGA GTX 960 SSC will be arriving shortly.

FX 6300 - 4.4Ghz
GA78LMT-USB3 (Rev 6)
Corsair H100i Extreme Performance
Crucial Ballistix Sport - 8Gb (1608mhz)
EVGA GTX 960 SSC
Samsung EVO 850 - 120GB
EVGA 600B PSU
Fractal Design Define R5

Most likely will use this build until the end of this year and build another higher-end system for 2016.


----------



## lurker2501

I don't know if anyone has ever posted this before, but here's proof that Fractal Design cases are not of very good quality. (Threaded GLUED DOWN screw hole on the upper drive cage. FD Arc Ver 1). Now it's impossible to take the screw out because the glue that was holding the nut in place cracked.


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyhamster*
> 
> My first build!
> Tips/Suggestions would be much appreciated, thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom WHITE PCI-E/24Pin/CPU/SATA sleeved cords and a backplate for my EVGA GTX 960 SSC will be arriving shortly.
> 
> FX 6300 - 4.4Ghz
> GA78LMT-USB3 (Rev 6)
> Corsair H100i Extreme Performance
> Crucial Ballistix Sport - 8Gb (1608mhz)
> EVGA GTX 960 SSC
> Samsung EVO 850 - 120GB
> EVGA 600B PSU
> Fractal Design Define R5
> 
> Most likely will use this build until the end of this year and build another higher-end system for 2016.


just my 2 cents. Move h100i radiator to front intake and move 2 front fan to btm intake will enable a more "quiet" rig. This way you can close all the top the ventilation


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I don't know if anyone has ever posted this before, but here's proof that Fractal Design cases are not of very good quality. (Threaded GLUED DOWN screw hole on the upper drive cage. FD Arc Ver 1). Now it's impossible to take the screw out because the glue that was holding the nut in place cracked.


If this wasn't a fluke in Chinese manufacturing then this has been fixed long time ago.

What quality people expect I don't know, it's all made in China or other South East Asia country where all the jobs we used to have are gone to thanks to our governments not protecting our markets.


----------



## AngryFuture

To those of you who are Fractal Define S owners...

.....Is it possible to stack two SSDs on top of each other in the SSD mounts?
And still be able to close the side panel?

I really like the Define S, but Im goingt o be using all the 3.5 drive trays and will need to fit an extra 2.5in drives in besides the two on the back of the motherboard tray....


----------



## Greg121986

Is anyone with an ARC MIDI R2 able to measure the distances between the feet of the case? Front to back, and side to side. I need something to raise the case up off my basement floor in case of minor flooding. I'm looking at this http://amzn.com/B0006HVM5E and I'd like to be able to use the 16" version. It looks like the feet of the case could be a perfect fit for the 16" version but I don't have access to my case to take a measurement at the moment.


----------



## mainBORED

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> extra 2.5in drives in besides the two on the back of the motherboard tray....


You might be able to stack using some velcro, or just measure and drill 4 new holes for a 2.5 somewhere in the backside tray?
Unless its the system ssd I would've gone the lazy route and just left in hanging in the cable mess on the backside though, but thats me


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryFuture*
> 
> To those of you who are Fractal Define S owners...
> 
> .....Is it possible to stack two SSDs on top of each other in the SSD mounts?
> And still be able to close the side panel?
> 
> I really like the Define S, but Im goingt o be using all the 3.5 drive trays and will need to fit an extra 2.5in drives in besides the two on the back of the motherboard tray....


Stack them using velcro or double sided tape.


----------



## AngryFuture

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Stack them using velcro or double sided tape.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> You might be able to stack using some velcro, or just measure and drill 4 new holes for a 2.5 somewhere in the backside tray?
> Unless its the system ssd I would've gone the lazy route and just left in hanging in the cable mess on the backside though, but thats me


Awesome, Just wanted to make sure there was room enough to do so.

Thanks guys.


----------



## fatalhalt

My initial build. I fit a 279mm gfx card into Arc Mini R2 by crushing tubular edge of 3.5" cage. I also fit a triple radiator and kept half of the 5.25" cage to put a bluray cdrom.


----------



## lurker2501

Question of the day: how do you properly mount a 420 rad up front on an Arc Midi? Need some ideas as I'm waiting for the new parts for my loop.


----------



## Germanian

i just ordered the Define S.

Now i gotta figure out where to put my 5.25 fan controller and try to create/make a dust filter for those moduvent slots


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> i just ordered the Define S.
> 
> Now i gotta figure out where to put my 5.25 fan controller and try to *create/make a dust filter for those moduvent slots*


Order a custom demci filter from performancpc like I did for my R5.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Order a custom demci filter from performancpc like I did for my R5.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


+1


----------



## Ashura

Mounting a tube res on the hdd cage of the define r5 possible?

like on the enthoo pro.


----------



## cb750rob

*Poor spares availability and service from Fractal and Scan UK ????*

Hi guys and girls.

I have a Fractal design Arc Midi which I absolutely love. Its a great case. I love Fractal's approach to design and the fact that they have taken on board feedback from their customers and have tried where possible, to implement features that the actual customers want.

However, I ordered a windowed side panel (FD-AC-WND-DEF4-ARC-BL SIDEPANE) for my arc-midi on 27 April this year from scan.co.uk, It was showing a lead time of four weeks. "That's ok I thought" as I felt I could live with that:

*"Unfortunately the following item is currently out of stock:

FD-AC-WND-DEF4-ARC-BLSIDEPANE

We are expecting our stock levels to be replenished in approx 29th May if you are able to wait"*

I asked if they could take it from a case in stock as it is the same as the R4's windowed sidepanel and was told no but I could have a refund If I wished.

Come that date I gave it a day or two then enquired if it had arrived - it hadn't. Now a week or two later:

According to correspondence I have had Scan's Supplier (Fractal?) have only just ordered it:

*"I regret to inform that the FD-AC-WND-DEF4-ARC-BLSIDEPANE
still hasn't arrived with, i have asked our purchaser what is happening with this item and his reply was, we ordered from fractal's suppliers on the 25/06 to for fill our order's, fractal themselves only placed our order last week from china and this is the only place we can buy the item from.

We have now asked fractal again for an upto date eta and we have know been told 6 to 8 weeks.

If you could please let us know at your earliest convenience if you are ok to wait or if you would rather have a refund on the item."*

It seems a real shame that either by a lengthy supply chain situation or poor retailer service that a forward thinking company like Fractal can represent itself like this.

3 months + seems a very long time to wait for a standard part.

I just wondered if anyone else has had this type of experience?

Regards
Rob


----------



## JackCY

LOL, Fractal has nothing to do with this.
It's some shop and their inability to have a product you want to buy. And they did inform you it's on a backorder and you will have to wait, you don't have to if you don't want to. Lead time of one month expected was a clear indication of not in stock








Never heard of Scan.co.uk.

Shops will never open new products to assembly you something else so they can fulfill your order. That's simply not feasible for retailers.

Not Fractal's issue that some sellers and resellers in UK have trouble explaining to shoppers that products are on order only or on back order, either way with a long waiting time.


----------



## cb750rob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> LOL, Fractal has nothing to do with this.
> It's some shop and their inability to have a product you want to buy. And they did inform you it's on a backorder and you will have to wait, you don't have to if you don't want to. Lead time of one month expected was a clear indication of not in stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never heard of Scan.co.uk.
> 
> Shops will never open new products to assembly you something else so they can fulfill your order. That's simply not feasible for retailers.
> 
> Not Fractal's issue that some sellers and resellers in UK have trouble explaining to shoppers that products are on order only or on back order, either way with a long waiting time.


Thanks for the sympathy lol

I didn't have a problem with 1 month lead time....... as I was told that and expected that.

Just an FYI Scan are one of the biggest specialist IT etailers in the UK and supply Buckingham Palace by Royal appointment of the Queen - you may have heard of her









Three months plus is excessive in my opinion. I could almost walk to China in that time. Either Scan messed up the order to Fractal or Fractal messed it up to their manufacturer.

Anyway, thanks for your opinion.

As previously asked - Anyone else had a similar experience?


----------



## JackCY

I give all the sympathy I can








It is an issue that can happen to anyone ordering from shops that don't hold stock of a desired item. It simply takes time for the sellers to get their hands on the product via their suppliers. Sometimes it is resolved within days but sometimes even those suppliers are dry, especially if it comes to specialty = low volume products like that and they also have to order it, and so on it goes depending on how many middle man there are.

I doubt the Queen cares where she spends the public money. If she requested the item from Scan she would have been met with the same fate, wait for an order to arrive or get a refund







Unless of course they hold a secret stock of items just for the Queen


----------



## Metasyntactic

Hey All,

Has anyone done a build with an 240mm AIO cooler in the *bottom* of the case. For example, an H100 or H100i. I'd like to see what it looks like, and how it integrates with a small PSU (and optionally the middle HDD cage still in the box).

Thanks!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metasyntactic*
> 
> Hey All,
> 
> Has anyone done a build with an 240mm AIO cooler in the *bottom* of the case. I'd like to see what it looks like, and how it integrates with a small PSU (and optionally the middle HDD cage still in the box).
> 
> Thanks!


Most aio coolers won't have enough tube length to mount there. You will have a gpu to route around making it even worse.


----------



## Metasyntactic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Most aio coolers won't have enough tube length to mount there. You will have a gpu to route around making it even worse.


That's a very good point, and one of the reasons i wanted to know if anyone had pulled it off. 

If it's totally not possible, i can accept that. But if someone has done it, i'd like to see. I'm currently perusing the entire thread. But it's super long, so it's going to take me a while









If this can't work out, it's no biggie. I'll just top mount the AIO. However, i liked the idea of being able to put it on the bottom so i could keep all the top vents shut. Side mounting is currently out because i'd like keep the 5HDD cage in there for a lot of storage for this build.

Thanks again!


----------



## Metasyntactic

Here's another question i had (which i think i know the answer to, but i just wanted to check). Can you use *only* the Define-R5 HDD 5-bay HDD cage *in the middle location*. i.e. take out the ODD cage and remove the 3-bay HDD cage. I imagine not, since there won't be enough support for the 5-bay HDD drive without something above/below it supporting it.

If it's not possible to do this *by defaut*, how viable do you guys think it would be to mod things to add some sort of addition support. i.e. maybe a small attachment that binds the HDD-cage to the mobo tray.

The idea here would be to allow for a large 360/420 rad up top, and have space on the bottom for things like fans.

Thanks!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metasyntactic*
> 
> Here's another question i had (which i think i know the answer to, but i just wanted to check). Can you use *only* the Define-R5 HDD 5-bay HDD cage *in the middle location*. i.e. take out the ODD cage and remove the 3-bay HDD cage. I imagine not, since there won't be enough support for the 5-bay HDD drive without something above/below it supporting it.
> 
> If it's not possible to do this *by defaut*, how viable do you guys think it would be to mod things to add some sort of addition support. i.e. maybe a small attachment that binds the HDD-cage to the mobo tray.
> 
> The idea here would be to allow for a large 360/420 rad up top, and have space on the bottom for things like fans.
> 
> Thanks!


yes, you can also mount the fans in front behind the filter and slide the aio rad between the hdd cages and case and keep all the cages.


----------



## cb750rob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I give all the sympathy I can
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is an issue that can happen to anyone ordering from shops that don't hold stock of a desired item. It simply takes time for the sellers to get their hands on the product via their suppliers. Sometimes it is resolved within days but sometimes even those suppliers are dry, especially if it comes to specialty = low volume products like that and they also have to order it, and so on it goes depending on how many middle man there are.
> 
> I doubt the Queen cares where she spends the public money. If she requested the item from Scan she would have been met with the same fate, wait for an order to arrive or get a refund
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unless of course they hold a secret stock of items just for the Queen


I take your point Jack. But in this day and age...... 3 months for a windowed sidepanel..... That fits Arc and R4 series of cases... Not a specialty item Come on man!

Obviously the Queens would be as it would need to be gold plated.









Perhaps I am getting hers!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cb750rob*
> 
> I take your point Jack. But in this day and age...... 3 months for a windowed sidepanel..... That fits Arc and R4 series of cases... Not a specialty item Come on man!
> 
> Obviously the Queens would be as it would need to be gold plated.


Cancel it and order it somewhere else. It still the stores fault not fractals.


----------



## Wirerat

Doing a build for a friend in a Fractal define S. I got all the parts except the case comes tomorrow.


----------



## Metasyntactic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yes, you can also mount the fans in front behind the filter and slide the aio rad between the hdd cages and case and keep all the cages.


Interesting. Does anyone have a picture of that? I'd like to see that in action to make sure i've got what you're saying.

It seems like with that design the aio rad would be in the way of the HDD cages. Or, if the AIO rad went where the current front fans are... then i'm not sure where the fans themselves would go. So i think i'm not getting how this would work. A picture would be super awesome. Thanks!


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cb750rob*
> 
> I take your point Jack. But in this day and age...... 3 months for a windowed sidepanel..... That fits Arc and R4 series of cases... Not a specialty item Come on man!
> 
> Obviously the Queens would be as it would need to be gold plated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps I am getting hers!


It's only been 2 months. In this day and age there are not one but many shops to choose from. Windowed sides for a case, yeah it is rare for someone to buy them. I couldn't even find it locally in shops, I know it exists, it has been sold before but currently I can't find a shop around here that would carry this/list it on their e-shop, probably due to low demand was removed. Who wants a windowed case, buys it when buying the case. It's a rare item.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metasyntactic*
> 
> Interesting. Does anyone have a picture of that? I'd like to see that in action to make sure i've got what you're saying.
> 
> It seems like with that design the aio rad would be in the way of the HDD cages. Or, if the AIO rad went where the current front fans are... then i'm not sure where the fans themselves would go. So i think i'm not getting how this would work. A picture would be super awesome. Thanks!


the top hdd cage can sit right on the lower. But this shows most of the idea. it is possible that you have mod the top tray of the upper cage but it will fit giving up one hdd bay at most.


----------



## Metasyntactic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the top hdd cage can sit right on the lower. But this shows most of the idea. it is possible that you have mod the top tray of the upper cage but it will fit giving up one hdd bay at most.


Nice! Is that an H110/H110i?

I actually don't need the ODD bay at all. So maybe I'd just keep the 5bay drive where you have the 3bay drive.

What length GPUs are supported if you do things this way?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metasyntactic*
> 
> Nice! Is that an H110/H110i?
> 
> I actually don't need the ODD bay at all. So maybe I'd just keep the 5bay drive where you have the 3bay drive.
> 
> What length GPUs are supported if you do things this way?


that is not my rig. I found it on google







. The gigabyte gaming g1 970/980 might be to long. Its those GPU longer that 10.5 inches to watch out for. They are longer than the standard ATX mobo is wide and normally have 3 fans instead of two.

its not my rig but I can tell by the shape of the cpu block that s a H110 in the picture. Thats actaully not a R5 in the picture ether but I was trying to get the point across


----------



## Jyve

Since we're talking about hdd cages. Any idea if you can replace an arc mini r2's lower 3 drive cage with a midi's 4 drive?


----------



## RichardGTan

Hey guys, I'm about to get the Define S for my new custom loop build and was just wondering what radiator options are there? Trying to figure out clearance etc. Would I run into any issues running a triple 120mm slim 30mm thick radiator up top and triple 120mm 60mm thick radiator at the front? Can't seem to find much builds on this case.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardGTan*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to get the Define S for my new custom loop build and was just wondering what radiator options are there? Trying to figure out clearance etc. Would I run into any issues running a triple 120mm slim 30mm thick radiator up top and triple 120mm 60mm thick radiator at the front? Can't seem to find much builds on this case.


I thinking you will have to run a 240 or 280 in front if you have a 360 in top. That is the case with the R5. If it does fit your wont have room for a exhaust fan even.


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardGTan*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm about to get the Define S for my new custom loop build and was just wondering what radiator options are there? Trying to figure out clearance etc. Would I run into any issues running a triple 120mm slim 30mm thick radiator up top and triple 120mm 60mm thick radiator at the front? Can't seem to find much builds on this case.




I am running a 30mm 360 rad up top and a 280 45mm rad in front
if you want you can run a 360 30mm rad up top and a 360 45mm rad in the front with the fans on the outside of the case. That should allow you to keep the rear fan but most likely, the front radiator outlet will need to be on the bottom otherwise you may have some interference issues.

There are a few Define S builds in here. but most run a 360/240 or something around there.


----------



## RichardGTan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> 
> 
> I am running a 30mm 360 rad up top and a 280 45mm rad in front
> if you want you can run a 360 30mm rad up top and a 360 45mm rad in the front with the fans on the outside of the case. That should allow you to keep the rear fan but most likely, the front radiator outlet will need to be on the bottom otherwise you may have some interference issues.
> 
> There are a few Define S builds in here. but most run a 360/240 or something around there.


I've checked out Fractal Designs website and found this photo, however I can't seem to find any builds similar to this.



Judging by that photo it looks like a 360 30mm thick radiator up top and a 360 60mm radiator up front with a push/pull fan setup mounted on the outside of the case is possible, can anyone confirm this? Was planning on getting a EK XE360 for the front in push/pull and a EK SE360 in push up top when it's released later this month.


----------



## fisher6

I'm having a really hard time figuring out how I should do the tubing (soft) in my Define S. I have a 360 on top and a 240 in the front with the outlets on top. My problem is that I wanna use a 250 mm tube reservoir but then it will be a pain to route the tubing since it's taller than the 240 rad and is directly in front of it. I think I'm just gonna have to put the 240 up top and move the 360 to the front.


----------



## fatalhalt

My ARC Mini R2, continuation from http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/12790#post_24098538
I switched to tank style reservoir--EK X3 250mm x 60mm, sleeved gfx power cable, and added 90 degree fitting to top of pump










Next I will install G.SKILL TridentX DDR2400 in RED to match the theme, and also switch to Swiftech XL waterblock with RED LEDs.


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardGTan*
> 
> I've checked out Fractal Designs website and found this photo, however I can't seem to find any builds similar to this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Judging by that photo it looks like a 360 30mm thick radiator up top and a 360 60mm radiator up front with a push/pull fan setup mounted on the outside of the case is possible, can anyone confirm this? Was planning on getting a EK XE360 for the front in push/pull and a EK SE360 in push up top when it's released later this month.


If you wanna run double 360mm your front mounted rad will have to have the G1/4 at the bottom.

Also, you are likely to be restricted to 30mm thickness and one set of fans for your top rad. Alternatively you could have the top rad G1/4 ports be at the rear but that would block your rear fan slot.

I didn't dare risk a double 360mm build with mine:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## deciMal oNion

I just finished trial fitting two EK Coolstream PE 360 triple radiators to the top and front of a Define S and they fit with approximately 1mm to spare using stock mounting holes. Rear 140 fan removed, top ports at rear, front ports at the bottom. 6 x Corsair SP120 fans fitted on the inside.

Happy.


----------



## Loque

Hi guys, I'm new here.









I'm building a quiet gaming rig and strongly leaning R5. I'm coming from an old Antec Solo which has been pretty good to me. My aim is to meet or exceed the Solo's silencing standards but leave more room for overclocking and cooling potential.

One question I have is can you effectively decouple the R5's front fans to reduce vibrations (I'm picky about vibrations). (1) Is the front fan attached to metal (unlike the R4 which I think uses a plastic fan cage)? (2) Will some kind of silicone mounts/barbs be possible with the GP14 fan?

Other parts in the build would likely be: i5-4690K, Asus Maximus VII Hero, MSI GTX 970, EVGA 750W G2, and still deciding on a cooler (NH-D15 vs PH TC14PE vs Prolimatech Genesis).


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loque*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm new here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm building a quiet gaming rig and strongly leaning R5. I'm coming from an old Antec Solo which has been pretty good to me. My aim is to meet or exceed the Solo's silencing standards but leave more room for overclocking and cooling potential.
> 
> One question I have is can you effectively decouple the R5's front fans to reduce vibrations (I'm picky about vibrations). (1) Is the front fan attached to metal (unlike the R4 which I think uses a plastic fan cage)? (2) Will some kind of silicone mounts/barbs be possible with the GP14 fan?
> 
> Other parts in the build would likely be: i5-4690K, Asus Maximus VII Hero, MSI GTX 970, EVGA 750W G2, and still deciding on a cooler (NH-D15 vs PH TC14PE vs Prolimatech Genesis).


To completely digress from the topic, if you don't need your new PC urgently I suggest waiting for Skylake.


----------



## dzb87

Hello!
I am going to replace my old chieftec case for something more modern.
I have watched many reviews and I'm torn between Define R5 and Arc Midi R2.
I was almost decided for R5 but found some opinions that dust protection is not as good as it should be in such priced case.
On the other hand people recommend Arc Midi R2 for it's dust filters and better airflow.

My key PC components are:
- Core i7-4770K @ 4.5GHz
- Noctua NH-D14
- Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H mobo (ATX)
- 2x8GB G.Skill TridentX 2400MHz CL10
- Gigabyte GTX980Ti G1 Gaming (oced to 1450-1480)
- Seasonic MII-850W Bronze PSU -> will be replaced with something semi-passive cooled - Corsair RM750 for example
- 2x SSD (no HDD!)
- no optical drive

I do not plan to buy second card for SLI.
I'm not a fan of installing tons of fans. I think that I would stay with three for Arc Midi R2 and buy additional one for Define (to have three).
I prefer quiet work at low load. When in game the noise is not so important.

Which one should I choose?


----------



## mainBORED

Updated with a bigger reservoir, made some changes to a few runs and some matching fans (that Im actually not as big of a fan of as I thought I would be)


----------



## Loque

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loque*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm new here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm building a quiet gaming rig and strongly leaning R5. I'm coming from an old Antec Solo which has been pretty good to me. My aim is to meet or exceed the Solo's silencing standards but leave more room for overclocking and cooling potential.
> 
> One question I have is can you effectively decouple the R5's front fans to reduce vibrations (I'm picky about vibrations). (1) Is the front fan attached to metal (unlike the R4 which I think uses a plastic fan cage)? (2) Will some kind of silicone mounts/barbs be possible with the GP14 fan?
> 
> Other parts in the build would likely be: i5-4690K, Asus Maximus VII Hero, MSI GTX 970, EVGA 750W G2, and still deciding on a cooler (NH-D15 vs PH TC14PE vs Prolimatech Genesis).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcrevolution*
> 
> To completely digress from the topic, if you don't need your new PC urgently I suggest waiting for Skylake.


Thanks but too late on the CPU...


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> Updated with a bigger reservoir, made some changes to a few runs and some matching fans (that Im actually not as big of a fan of as I thought I would be)


I really like this build, @mainBORED !
Wondering what you don't like about the fans.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loque*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm new here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm building a quiet gaming rig and strongly leaning R5. I'm coming from an old Antec Solo which has been pretty good to me. My aim is to meet or exceed the Solo's silencing standards but leave more room for overclocking and cooling potential.
> 
> One question I have is can you effectively decouple the R5's front fans to reduce vibrations (I'm picky about vibrations). (1) Is the front fan attached to metal (unlike the R4 which I think uses a plastic fan cage)? (2) Will some kind of silicone mounts/barbs be possible with the GP14 fan?
> 
> Other parts in the build would likely be: i5-4690K, Asus Maximus VII Hero, MSI GTX 970, EVGA 750W G2, and still deciding on a cooler (NH-D15 vs PH TC14PE vs Prolimatech Genesis).


1) Yes they are
2) It is possible. I have a NF-A14 on the front and it has those silicone/rubber isolators on the other side. See how the A14 is slightly raised vs the GP14

But to be honest, the GP14's are remarkably good quality and don't really cause any vibrations even on max speed. Placing my hand on the side of the case and switching between 5V and 12V (integrated fan controller lo/hi) I can't tell a difference.
If you have a hard drive(/s) then that is going to be vibrating the case more than the GP14's if you put them on the HDD cages using the included sleds and rubber grommets. I find them (the grommets) to be slightly harder than what I'd deem optimal for absorbing vibrations..


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I find them (the grommets) to be slightly harder than what I'd deem optimal for absorbing vibrations..


It sure ain't 30D sorbothane.

Loque:
You can use silicone/rubber mounts for fans if you don't like screwing them down. Filters can block some but then you can just cut the excess off once attached so filters are not obstructed. Or bent it out of the way around the fan.


----------



## Wirerat

Finished the assembly of my coworkers build lastnight.


----------



## mainBORED

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> I really like this build, @mainBORED !
> Wondering what you don't like about the fans.


Couple things, I think it just became to much white inside the case. Also that redness in the corners of the fans, ugh.
Thinking about ordering some Parvum F1.0 fans.


----------



## Loque

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> 1) Yes they are
> 2) It is possible. I have a NF-A14 on the front and it has those silicone/rubber isolators on the other side. See how the A14 is slightly raised vs the GP14
> 
> But to be honest, the GP14's are remarkably good quality and don't really cause any vibrations even on max speed. Placing my hand on the side of the case and switching between 5V and 12V (integrated fan controller lo/hi) I can't tell a difference.
> If you have a hard drive(/s) then that is going to be vibrating the case more than the GP14's if you put them on the HDD cages using the included sleds and rubber grommets. I find them (the grommets) to be slightly harder than what I'd deem optimal for absorbing vibrations..


Extremely helpful, thanks! Would you say the A14 is better, worse or equal to the GP14 purely based on acoustics?

I will be attempting some kind of HDD suspension as well. I don't have it all worked out yet: SPCR seemed to say a second front fan dropped temperatures significantly but that was with the middle drive cage removed. I'm not sure how many options that would leave me in terms of DIY suspending other than using one of the 5.25" slots, which I had other plans for.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loque*
> 
> Extremely helpful, thanks! Would you say the A14 is better, worse or equal to the GP14 purely based on acoustics?


Personally I prefer the sound signature of the GP14. And as a case fan it's great.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> Couple things, I think it just became to much white inside the case. Also that redness in the corners of the fans, ugh.
> Thinking about ordering some Parvum F1.0 fans.


Hmm... I hadn't noticed the red in the corner of the fans until you said something, but I now see what you mean.
However, you have some red LED's happening on the mobo (I assume) below your GPU, so I think the red coming from the fans actually works in your favor as a nice accent from the white (aesthetics are subjective of course).

Are those the Enermax CLUSTER Advance UCCLA12P fans?


----------



## emsj86

I have a few questions for the define s case. One do they plan to have an xl or a white one? Does the top come with magnetic filter and if not where can you buy magnetic filters. I plan to do what bill owen did and cut the front and use modders mesh to have more air flow and mount my front fans up front as to fit a 360 rad. Just not sure where to find a cheap or decent 360 mm magnetic filter. thanks in advance. Im coming from a enthoo pro and feel I can mod this case pretty well


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have a few questions for the define s case. One do they plan to have an xl or a white one? Does the top come with magnetic filter and if not where can you buy magnetic filters. I plan to do what bill owen did and cut the front and use modders mesh to have more air flow and mount my front fans up front as to fit a 360 rad. Just not sure where to find a cheap or decent 360 mm magnetic filter. thanks in advance. Im coming from a enthoo pro and feel I can mod this case pretty well


you can order custom sized demci filters from http://www.performance-pcs.com/

Thats where I got mine for the R5.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## emsj86

Thank you


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Thank you


no problem


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## Jumie

where will u put ur PSU?


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*


Which fractal case is this the xl?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Which fractal case is this the xl?


Arc Midi


----------



## emsj86

Saw your pic on the water cool thread surprised it for the 420 up front and top


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> where will u put ur PSU?


I also want to know his psu plans.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> where will the psu go?


Onto the lower rad.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Onto the lower rad.


at the front?


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Saw your pic on the water cool thread surprised it for the 420 up front and top


I wanted to fit one rad up front, but there's not enough space and no mounting holes as well.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> at the front?


Yes.


----------



## mtrapuzz

It is not possible to fit a 420 rad up front of the Define S correct?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> It is not possible to fit a 420 rad up front of the Define S correct?


no. I could not even fit a 120mm beside the h110gtx (280mm rad).


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> no. I could not even fit a 120mm beside the h110gtx (280mm rad).


Ok, thanks for the input. Looks like I will just stick with a 280 for now.


----------



## ihatelolcats

is it possible to mount the small hdd cage in the top position in the r4? i have 3 hdds plus a 305mm graphics card so im trying to figure how it would work


----------



## PureBlackFire

Node 202 looking good for sff builds.


----------



## psyshack

I'm done with this H440 build!










It's just not worth my time or effort anymore. It's one step forward and two steps back concerning this otherwise wonderful looking and useless case. The time spent with the H440 has been hellish.

I took money from my CaseLabs rat hole savings and ordered a Define S. I thought I could hold out. The H440 has to leave my desk ASAP!

I look forward to getting the Define S. Newegg has shipped it. Waiting on Performance PCS to get off there dead butts and get that order shipped. I hope by this weekend my basic X99 parts will be in a proper China Boxin.

As good as the Define S looks there will be a few things that will have to be modded. The first will be the plastic window. Glass is cheap. The blue power led will have to be changed to red. The sain type mesh filter martial will have to go on the front filter. And I will open up the hand cut out on the bottom of the front cover. Do that stuff and it should be no more than a plug and play change over to a far better case.


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyshack*
> 
> I'm done with this H440 build!


Lol @ the glock

Glad you're switching things up. My white H440 is the most beautiful non-caselabs case I have ever seen, but the struggles with the airflow and the thumbscrews (the latter of which was touted by most reviewers as all the rage) has relegated it to housing an office PC build. Maybe NZXT will learn something about airflow fro their experiences with the H440.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureBlackFire*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Node 202 looking good for sff builds.


Node 202 looks good indeed. For no reason I might switch my Node 304 to 202, just for the looks.


----------



## mainBORED

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Are those the Enermax CLUSTER Advance UCCLA12P fans?


That is correct!
Removed the Clusters and put some Alpenfohn Wing Boost 2 inside the case instead. They're quieter and "imo" look better. And a small Darkside Connect LED strip so it wont be so bright.



EDIT; ****ty pic, you can see my hand and my 3 year olds drawing in the mirror


----------



## lurker2501

Will a Define S fit dual 420s up top and front. It says on the website that it can hold 420 and a 360 up front so technically you could fit another 420 at the front as well. Or no?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Will a Define S fit dual 420s up top and front. It says on the website that it can hold 420 and a 360 up front so technically you could fit another 420 at the front as well. Or no?


no a 420 will *NOT* fit.

I just posted pictures of a 280 rad (h110gtx) mounted to the front.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Absolutely no way 420 will fit front.

Also a 420 in the top with max of 55mm thick fan + rad cannot be used at the same time a 360 is in front.

A 360mm top that is 55mm thick fan + rad will fit with a 360 in front.

so 360 top and 360 front is the MAX.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> no a 420 will *NOT*fit. I just posted pictures of a 280 rad (h110gtx) mounted to the front.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely no way 420 will fit front.
> 
> Also a 420 in the top with max of 55mm thick fan + rad cannot be used at the same time a 360 is in front.
> 
> A 360mm top that is 55mm thick fan + rad will fit with a 360 in front.
> 
> so 360to and 360 front is the MAX.


What if I don't use fans?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> What if I don't use fans?


the rad will not fit.

the length of any 420 rad is longer than 3 x 140mm fans. 3x 140mm will fit front with no extra space.

a 360mm top with a 280mm front would be a way better idea.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the rad will not fit.
> 
> the length of any 420 rad is longer than 3 x 140mm fans. 3x 140mm will fit front with no extra space.


What is the length of the upper and front panel?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> What if I don't use fans?


you need 450mm+ or more length to fit a 420 rad. The front internal has about 425mm of space max.

It was not even possible to fit a 120mm fan next to the 280rad.


----------



## Quarker

How does the Define S compare with the Define R5 in terms of quietness? I'm not planning on any water-cooling. Just seeking maximum silence


----------



## twerk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quarker*
> 
> How does the Define S compare with the Define R5 in terms of quietness? I'm not planning on any water-cooling. Just seeking maximum silence


They are the same. If you aren't water cooling then personally I'd grab the R5.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twerk*
> 
> They are the same. If you aren't water cooling then personally I'd grab the R5.


The S has better air flow as long as you only need 3 3.5 hdd mounts or less. There are no hdd cages that will block any front fans.

I prefer the R5 after building both for other reasons like the lower filter sliding out the front, included fan controller and 4 usb ports instead of 2.

Its also nice that a 240mm could fit in the bottum. The S can only fit a 120mm there.

Also I noticed the 140mm rear fan mount is slotted on the R5. Very nice if you have a rad up top the rear fan slides down to a more effective location.

The S has only one rear fan location.

IMHO the S is simply the budget version of the R5 with some reservoir mounting.


----------



## JynxLee

I'm looking for a new case. I was considering the Fractal Design S as it looks like I can put 3 120mm rads in the front (correct me if I'm wrong). Now I'm looking at the R5 and trying to decide. If you remove all the drive cages with the R5 can you put 3 120mm in front?

Also, if I get a Define S w/ OUT the side window do they sell the side window panels? I've been looking and it appears they have parts for almost all models Except the Define S.


----------



## Gubz

With a little bit of modding would it be possible to fit a 240 rad in the bottom, one 240 in the front and one 360 in the top of a Define S?

The case looks like it's as big as the Define R5, so theoretically it should work, right?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> With a little bit of modding would it be possible to fit a 240 rad in the bottom, one 240 in the front and one 360 in the top of a Define S?
> 
> The case looks like it's as big as the Define R5, so theoretically it should work, right?


there is no mesh in the bottom front area of the S. The S only has 120mm mesh fan area forward of the psu.

The cases are the same size. I had them side by side here the other day.

You could fit 2 360mm in the S front and top with top rad limited to 30mm thick and a 120mm on the bottom.


----------



## Gubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> there is no mesh in the bottom front area of the S. The S only has 120mm mesh fan area forward of the psu.
> 
> The cases are the same size. I had them side by side here the other day.
> 
> You could fit 2 360mm in the S front and top with top rad limited to 30mm thick and a 120mm on the bottom.


The bottom mesh was what I was thinking about modding. Just simply cutting out two 120 holes.
Seeing how they're the same size it shouldn't be any problems.

Need a new case anyway, so if it doesn't work out it's no biggie. A 360 + 240 is more than enough for just a cpu and gpu loop.
Cheers though!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> The bottom mesh was what I was thinking about modding. Just simply cutting out two 120 holes.
> Seeing how they're the same size it shouldn't be any problems.
> 
> Need a new case anyway, so if it doesn't work out it's no biggie. A 360 + 240 is more than enough for just a cpu and gpu loop.
> Cheers though!


in that case (pun intended) it should work.

if you use good rads, 360 and 240 is fine. I only have a 360 + 140 ek rads and my temps 65c max cpu 4790k 4.8ghz and 45c gpu gtx 980 1550mhz.


----------



## JynxLee

Ok so I'm about to order. I need to know if you can put 3 120mm rads in the R5 or S?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Ok so I'm about to order. I need to know if you can put 3 120mm rads in the R5 or S?


Yes easy. I hope thats three AIO rads. Because that would be silly for a custom loop in this case.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Yes easy. I hope thats three AIO rads. Because that would be silly for a custom loop in this case.


I was typing to fast, I meant to say in the front of the case. I think the S can right?


----------



## JynxLee

And is there any real reason to get the R5 over the S If I won't be using any optical drives? I think the S doesn't have the sound damping foam in the front is all, not sure how much of an audible difference I would notice with or without that. And I use all Noctua fans.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> And is there any real reason to get the R5 over the S If I won't be using any optical drives? I think the S doesn't have the sound damping foam in the front is all, not sure how much of an audible difference I would notice with or without that. And I use all Noctua fans.


if you turned all the aio 120mm sideways it might be possible to fit three in front. Worst case 2 in front and 1 in bottom. They would all three fit in top easy.

Unless you need the 5.35 bays , have more than three 3.5HDDs or need the fan controller then get the S and save some cash.


----------



## JynxLee

Yea I'm trying to use all in front as I wan't to keep the sound damping modular tops in place. I have an h100i but I was thinking about putting the h80i on the CPU and 2 h80i's on 2 980 Ti's all in the front as intakes and a rear exhaust.

I'm seeing 240, 280 and 360mm support on front of Design S and can house 3 120mm fans, but I can't get a confirmation that it can house 3 separate 120mm rads on front. Gotta find that out before ordering.


----------



## RichardGTan

So I'm about to put an order through for the rest of my build, mainly the WC side of things but before I do, I want to make sure I don't run into any issues with the radiators. So I'll be running a EK XE 360 (60mm thickness) up front in Push/pull with 3 fans mounted on the outside and 3 on the inside and ports at the bottom and up top a Black Ice Nemesis 360 GTS U Flow (30mm thickness) in push config with ports at the back and rear 140mm fan removed. Am I gonna be okay to fit all this in the Define S?

Here's a rough idea on the how the loop is going to be but with a few changes, also ignore the cross flow up top.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Yea I'm trying to use all in front as I wan't to keep the sound damping modular tops in place. I have an h100i but I was thinking about putting the h80i on the CPU and 2 h80i's on 2 980 Ti's all in the front as intakes and a rear exhaust.
> 
> I'm seeing 240, 280 and 360mm support on front of Design S and can house 3 120mm fans, but I can't get a confirmation that it can house 3 separate 120mm rads on front. Gotta find that out before ordering.


Three 140mm fans will fit in the front. Just measure your rads with them turned side ways. If it is less than 420mm long they will fit. There is enough width. The height is the only worry.


----------



## JynxLee

I'm seeing 240, 280 and 360mm support on front of Design S and can house 3 120mm fans, but I can't get a confirmation that it can house 3 seperate 120mm rads on front. Gotta find that out before ordering.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Three 140mm fans will fit in the front. Just measure your rads with them turned side ways. If it is less than 420mm long they will fit. There is enough width. The height is the only worry.


From what I can tell all the H series single RAD's are around 120mm x 152mm x 38mm


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I'm seeing 240, 280 and 360mm support on front of Design S and can house 3 120mm fans, but I can't get a confirmation that it can house 3 seperate 120mm rads on front. Gotta find that out before ordering.
> From what I can tell all the H series single RAD's are around 120mm x 152mm x 38mm


so if you lined them up sidways they will fit.


----------



## contay

What did I miss, why you want three seperate 120mm rads?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> What did I miss, why you want three seperate 120mm rads?


he has three aio coolers. He wants to fit the rads in the front of the S.

They will fit if he turns them sideways.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Yes, should fit fine turned sideways.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> What did I miss, why you want three seperate 120mm rads?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> he has three aio coolers. He wants to fit the rads in the front of the S.
> 
> They will fit if he turns them sideways.


Right, It's not ideal but if I choose the Define S then I want to keep the top vents covered to take advantage of the noise dampening. Then I could just put say 3 H80i's on the front for CPU, VID1, VID2.

Currently I have an H100i, maybe I could put the h100i on front towards top, an h80i on the front bottom and then vid2 on the bottom towards the front. Not entirely sure on that one.

Or I scrap it all, decide it doesn't matter if its Define R5 or S and that it doesn't matter if I put the H100i up top with sound covers removed







Just didn't want to pay for silent and not use it.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Right, It's not ideal but if I choose the Define S then I want to keep the top vents covered to take advantage of the noise dampening. Then I could just put say 3 H80i's on the front for CPU, VID1, VID2.
> 
> Currently I have an H100i, maybe I could put the h100i on front towards top, an h80i on the front bottom and then vid2 on the bottom towards the front. Not entirely sure on that one.
> 
> Or I scrap it all, decide it doesn't matter if its Define R5 or S and that it doesn't matter if I put the H100i up top with sound covers removed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Just didn't want to pay for silent and not use it.*


Noisey fans are audible through the case anyway.

I tested my 360 rad in front and top. The gentle typhoons are just as quiet in the top at 1100-1200rpm as they are in the front. 1850rpm is a bit loud from the front or the top.

My testing was not very scientific but The fans were silent at the same rpm in both positions.

I suggest you just mount h100 in front and a 120 bottum and a 120mm as exhaust.

But if you use the top it and only open two moduvents it will not be too much different.

This case does really well at hiding pump noise though. My mcp35x is dead silent even at 4500rpm with the side panels on. it is still silent with the top mounted rad too.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Noisey fans are audible through the case anyway.
> 
> I tested my 360 rad in front and top. The gentle typhoons are just as quiet in the top at 1100-1200rpm as they are in the front. 1850rpm is a bit loud from the front or the top.
> 
> My testing was not very scientific but The fans were silent at the same rpm in both positions.
> 
> I suggest you just mount h100 in front and a 120 bottum and a 120mm as exhaust.
> 
> But if you use the top it and only open two moduvents it will not be too much different.
> 
> This case does really well at hiding pump noise though. My mcp35x is dead silent even at 4500rpm with the side panels on. it is still silent with the top mounted rad too.


Over the course of a couple of paychecks I managed to build up an array of Noctua F12's and S12A's. All 120mm thought since my current case doesn't support 140mm.

This is why I been going back and forth between the Corsair 450D (just really like the look) and the Define series. I was concerned about noise, I'm not anal but I figured hell if you can get rid of it why not. I know the R5 has the sound damp in the front panel and the S does not. I didn't know how big of a deal that would make with fans/Rads in the front? I also figured you could easily put a strip of the same material in the front panel of the S just like the R5. I like the R5 but since I would be removing the 5.25" bays in the front, I feel that space is wasted, if I could put a fan/rad there then I probably wouldn't even be looking at the S version. Also has there been much of a reported difference between Window panel vs Non Window in the Define series?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Over the course of a couple of paychecks I managed to build up an array of Noctua F12's and S12A's. All 120mm thought since my current case doesn't support 140mm.
> 
> This is why I been going back and forth between the Corsair 450D (just really like the look) and the Define series. I was concerned about noise, I'm not anal but I figured hell if you can get rid of it why not. I know the R5 has the sound damp in the front panel and the S does not. I didn't know how big of a deal that would make with fans/Rads in the front? I also figured you could easily put a strip of the same material in the front panel of the S just like the R5. I like the R5 but since I would be removing the 5.25" bays in the front, I feel that space is wasted, if I could put a fan/rad there then I probably wouldn't even be looking at the S version. Also has there been much of a reported difference between Window panel vs Non Window in the Define series?


I have the windowed version of the R5. I have a rad mounted in the top.

And it is still more quiet than any case I ever owned.

My ddc pump in this case is less aubible than my d5 vario at setting 3 in my sons nzxt case. Those D5s are praised for silence on setting 2-3.

The dampening helps in every layout. The soundroom tests show the best being no window with all moduvents in place but its only a db or 2 difference.

If you want the window get it. It is not the difference in loud vs silent. They are both still quiet.

They still used sound dampening around the edges of the window on my R5.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I have the windowed version of the R5. I have a rad mounted in the top.
> 
> And it is still more quiet than any case I ever owned.
> 
> My ddc pump in this case is less aubible than my d5 vario at setting 3 in my sons nzxt case. Those D5s are praised for silence on setting 2-3.
> 
> The dampening helps in every layout. The soundroom tests show the best being no window with all moduvents in place but its only a db or 2 difference.
> 
> If you want the window get it. It is not the difference in loud vs silent. They are both still quiet.
> 
> They still used sound dampening around the edges of the window on my R5.


Is there anyway to put a rad where the 5.25's are? Not sure if anyone's done any modding, haven't seen it on a google image search yet. I like my rads to intake so If I put on top I'm sure one of the mode sites sell a magnetic filter to put there in place of the top vent pieces I guess.

With AIO's and Noctua's, in your opinion (I know its subjective) how much more quiet do you believe an R5 to be vs a more open air flow design case?


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyshack*
> 
> As good as the Define S looks there will be a few things that will have to be modded. The first will be the plastic window. Glass is cheap. The blue power led will have to be changed to red. The sain type mesh filter martial will have to go on the front filter. And I will open up the hand cut out on the bottom of the front cover. Do that stuff and it should be no more than a plug and play change over to a far better case.


I'll bet I'm not the only one interested in seeing/hearing about your modding efforts with the Define S. I'm especially interested in the conversion of the plastic to glass window.
Hope you'll share your experiences/pics here when you get it going.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mainBORED*
> 
> Removed the Clusters and put some Alpenfohn Wing Boost 2 inside the case instead. They're quieter and "imo" look better. And a small Darkside Connect LED strip so it wont be so bright.


Well... good call. I see what you mean now. It does look better this way (at least IMHO). And more quiet never hurts, eh?!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Is there anyway to put a rad where the 5.25's are? Not sure if anyone's done any modding, haven't seen it on a google image search yet. I like my rads to intake so If I put on top I'm sure one of the mode sites sell a magnetic filter to put there in place of the top vent pieces I guess.
> 
> With AIO's and Noctua's, in your opinion (I know its subjective) how much more quiet do you believe an R5 to be vs a more open air flow design case?


the 5.25 bays is easily removed. It would not support a 120mm rad in that spot as there are no mounts. If you got a rad mount and fixed it to the top then you could get a 120 there.

here is the mount you could use. XSPC 120mm Universal RadStand Radiator Mounting Bracket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KO9DA0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_P4ONvb04H1YP0

you could remove the forward top modvent and install that mount then put the moduvent back.

I removed the 5.25 bay to fit my 360 rad in top.

I got my magnetic filter from performancepcs.


----------



## JynxLee

Just wondering what adding sound damp to the front of the S would do if anything. And I wonder if I was to remove the 5.25 on the R5 and put the H100i in the front but moved up towards the top so one fan would be against that 5.25 window if it would be ok? The bottom half would be screwed into the case where normally the top part of the fan/rad would be screwed it. I like this better than having the R5 and stretching the hoses of the h100i to mount it where the 2 fans are currently on the R5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the 5.25 bays is easily removed. It would not support a 120mm rad in that spot as there are no mounts. If you got a rad mount and fixed it to the top then you could get a 120 there.
> 
> here is the mount you could use. XSPC 120mm Universal RadStand Radiator Mounting Bracket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KO9DA0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_P4ONvb04H1YP0
> 
> you could remove the forward top modvent and install that mount then put the moduvent back.
> 
> I removed the 5.25 bay to fit my 360 rad in top.
> 
> I got my magnetic filter from performancepcs.


Just wondering what adding sound damp to the front of the S would do if anything. And I wonder if I was to remove the 5.25 on the R5 and put the H100i in the front but moved up towards the top so one fan would be against that 5.25 window if it would be ok? The bottom half would be screwed into the case where normally the top part of the fan/rad would be screwed in. I like this better than having the R5 and stretching the hoses of the h100i to mount it where the 2 fans are currently on the R5


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Just wondering what adding sound damp to the front of the S would do if anything. And I wonder if I was to remove the 5.25 on the R5 and put the H100i in the front but moved up towards the top so one fan would be against that 5.25 window if it would be ok? The bottom half would be screwed into the case where normally the top part of the fan/rad would be screwed it. I like this better than having the R5 and stretching the hoses of the h100i to mount it where the 2 fans are currently on the R5
> Just wondering what adding sound damp to the front of the S would do if anything. And I wonder if I was to remove the 5.25 on the R5 and put the H100i in the front but moved up towards the top so one fan would be against that 5.25 window if it would be ok? The bottom half would be screwed into the case where normally the top part of the fan/rad would be screwed in. I like this better than having the R5 and stretching the hoses of the h100i to mount it where the 2 fans are currently on the R5


yes I have mounted a 280 rad (h110) the way you describe. I mounted the top fan directly to the rad and it was mounted with 4 screws on the lower fan.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yes I have mounted a 280 rad (h110) the way you describe. I mounted the top fan directly to the rad and it was mounted with 4 screws on the lower fan.


Did you encounter any problems with this? I know there is a small gap that covers the bottom of the top fan that isn't getting air directly. Any changes in temp..etc

Also, in looking at all these, that extended part that I guess the 2 fans sit in, that extends into the R5, is that removable while mounting Rad/Fan flush to the inside front?

Your awesome for answering all these questions I really appreciate it, as you can see I don't just blindly buy I will drive myself insane before I buy a product.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Did you encounter any problems with this? I know there is a small gap that covers the bottom of the top fan that isn't getting air directly. Any changes in temp..etc
> 
> Also, in looking at all these, that extended part that I guess the 2 fans sit in, that extends into the R5, is that removable while mounting Rad/Fan flush to the inside front?
> 
> Your awesome for answering all these questions I really appreciate it, as you can see I don't just blindly buy I will drive myself insane before I buy a product.


No worries. The only issues is the top fan wont have a filter. It can get fresh air by removing the plastic 5.25 covers.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Did you encounter any problems with this? I know there is a small gap that covers the bottom of the top fan that isn't getting air directly. Any changes in temp..etc
> 
> Also, in looking at all these, that extended part that I guess the 2 fans sit in, that extends into the R5, is that removable while mounting Rad/Fan flush to the inside front?
> 
> Your awesome for answering all these questions I really appreciate it, as you can see I don't just blindly buy I will drive myself insane before I buy a product.


If you end up wanting an R5 I am going to be selling mine. It is in great shape with some added goodies like power supply boxes, demciflex filters for top and back, custom rgb lighting in the front panel. All the hardware etc. Let me know if interested.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> If you end up wanting an R5 I am going to be selling mine. It is in great shape with some added goodies like power supply boxes, demciflex filters for top and back, custom rgb lighting in the front panel. All the hardware etc. Let me know if interested.


What are you switching too and you can PM me with the price your hoping to get out of it.


----------



## mesterbenji

Hi, I'm considering swapping from my current define R4 cooled by a Noctua D14 into a Node 804 using a Corsair H110i GT placed in the "backroom" section of the case so essentially mounted in the top behind the motherboard, my main concern atm is noise, apparently the H110i GT is supposed to be relatively quiet and I believe that is further helped by the fact that the top of the case has sound dampening foam but I was wondering if anyone has done anything similar or if anyone has any experience with doing something like this?

I've used AIO coolers before (previous system FX8350 had a H110, define XL R2 case where it was topmounted) but because of some mounting issues combined with the flex at the top of the case it caused audible vibrations unless something was left ontop of the case to "weigh it down"


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesterbenji*
> 
> Hi, I'm considering swapping from my current define R4 cooled by a Noctua D14 into a Node 804 using a Corsair H110i GT placed in the "backroom" section of the case so essentially mounted in the top behind the motherboard, my main concern atm is noise, apparently the H110i GT is supposed to be relatively quiet and I believe that is further helped by the fact that the top of the case has sound dampening foam but I was wondering if anyone has done anything similar or if anyone has any experience with doing something like this?
> 
> I've used AIO coolers before (previous system FX8350 had a H110, define XL R2 case where it was topmounted) but because of some mounting issues combined with the flex at the top of the case it caused audible vibrations unless something was left ontop of the case to "weigh it down"


I just installed a h110GTX for a friend.

If you run it in anything besides quiet mode in corsair link it is not quiet at all.

It is fine up to 1200rpm. The new fans go up to 2200rpm though. They can get loud. It is much louder than my h110 ever was. The H110 fans stop at 1500rpm though. So thats the difference.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> No worries. The only issues is the top fan wont have a filter. It can get fresh air by removing the plastic 5.25 covers.


Ok so I'm starting to lean more towards the R5 for front sound dampening (I know I could add to S) but also just reading about overall build quality of the R5 seems to be more solid.

So here's my concern. If I don't do what I talked about earlier and raise the h100i up in the front so the top fan is where the 5.25 bays are. Then can I somehow use the h100i in the front where it's supposed to go and cool my video card with something like the h80i.

Keep in mind I'm not wanting to put on exhaust or top. I have an EVGA Supernova 750 G2 PSU. I'm not sure if with the h100i up front and that PSU that I could put the h80i or other single rad anywhere on the bottom?

If you DID end up raising the h100i though would the h80i fit on the front part below the h100i? (not wanting to do this if don't have to).


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Ok so I'm starting to lean more towards the R5 bot front sound dampening (I know I could add to S) but also just reading about overall build quality of the R5 seems to be more solid.
> 
> So here's my concern. If I don't know what I talked about earlier and raise the h100i up in the front so the top fan is where the 5.25 bays are. Then can I somehow use the h100i in the front where it's supposed to go and cool my video card with something like the h80i.
> 
> Keep in mind I'm not wanting to put on exhaust or top. I have an EVGA Supernova 750 G2 PSU. I'm not sure if with the h100i up front and that PSU that I could put the h80i or other single rad anywhere on the bottom?
> 
> If you DID end up raising the h100i though would the h80i fit on the front part below the h100i? (not wanting to do this if don't have to).


H100 slide up + h80 turned sideways should fit.

H80 or the h100 rad would fit into the bottom of the R5 too. The bottum has a included fan filter too.

Even if for some un known reason the h100 could not fit bottum the h80 will fit for certain.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> H100 slide up + h80 turned sideways should fit.
> 
> H80 or the h100 rad would fit into the bottom of the R5 too. The bottum has a included fan filter too.
> 
> Even if for some un known reason the h100 could not fit bottum the h80 will fit for certain.


Yes I saw the R5 has the 2 on the bottom, so with my PSU I think I'd have to use the bottom mount closest to the front. However can you put an h80I there while there is a h100i in the front both at the same time? Seems like the Rads wouldn't fit together in that front bottom corner properly.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Yes I saw the R5 has the 2 on the bottom, so with my PSU I think I'd have to use the bottom mount closest to the front. However can you put an h80I there while there is a h100i in the front both at the same time? Seems like the Rads wouldn't fit together in that front bottom corner properly.


the h80 can slide back. The bottum mesh will allow you mount the h80 centered between the front and psu.

you are not limited to mounting a 120mm rad in two locations on the bottom. it can slide forward or back as needed.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the h80 can slide back. The bottum mesh will allow you mount the h80 centered between the front and psu.


Oh and you can still put 4 screws into it on the bottom? It looked like the mounts on the bottom were set with holes not on sliders thought right?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Oh and you can still put 4 screws into it on the bottom? It looked like the mounts on the bottom were set with holes not on sliders thought right?


The S is different than the R5 on bottom. it will still work.

[/IMG]


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> it is just like the top.
> 
> The S is different than the R5 on bottom.


Right but if I have the h100i in front in the actual mounts it should be, the h80i wouldnt line up with the screw holes on the bottom with my PSU.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Right but if I have the h100i in front in the actual mounts it should be, the h80i wouldnt line up with the screw holes on the bottom with my PSU.


it has sliders.

look you have multiple ways to mount those rads.










you are not limited to those sliders because screws can be forced through the mesh if need be.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> it has sliders.
> 
> look you have multiple ways to mount those rads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you are not limited to those sliders because screws can be forced through the mesh if need be.


Dam I just never found a good pic like that, my google-foo is not strong tonight. That awesome thank you.

Do you, in your opinion think I'm making a good choice on the R5 over the S or is it really comparing apples to apples?


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Dam I just never found a good pic like that, my google-foo is not strong tonight. That awesome thank you.
> 
> Do you, in your opinion think I'm making a good choice on the R5 over the S or is it really comparing apples to apples?


Dam something I hadn't thought about, from the CPU to the front of the R5 and S, from top down is the H100i tubes even long enough?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Dam something I hadn't thought about, from the CPU to the front of the R5 and S, from top down is the H100i tubes even long enough?


Top down going around a gpu might be a reach.

from cpu to front is no problem.

The r5 is the better case. I have built both. Not knocking The S but the R5 has more features.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Top down going around a gpu might be a reach.
> 
> from cpu to front is no problem.
> 
> The r5 is the better case. I have built both. Not knocking The S but the R5 has more features.


Assuming your removing the 5.25 and mounting only SSD's in the rear what features are you losing going from the R5 to the S


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Assuming your removing the 5.25 and mounting only SSD's in the rear what features are you losing going from the R5 to the S


3 way three position fan controller 5v,7v12v with switch behind door . Sliders on the rear 140mm fan/rad mount. A bunch of 3.5 bays like 10 more. The door itself. The fan filter cover the entire bottom and pulls out front instead of rear.

120x2 bottum mount on the R5 vs 120mmx1 on the bottom of s.

2 usb 3.0 and 2 usb 2.0 on R5 and s has 2 period.

The S has full filter for front 360mm and Reservior mounting that R5 does not have.


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 3 way three position fan controller 5v,7v12v with switch behind door . Sliders on the rear 140mm fan/rad mount. A bunch of 3.5 bays like 10 more. The door itself. The fan filter cover the entire bottom and pulls out front instead of rear.
> 
> 120x2 bottum mount on the R5 vs 120mmx1 on the bottom of s.
> 
> 2 usb 3.0 and 2 usb 2.0 on R5 and s has 2 period.
> 
> The S has full filter for front 360mm and Reservior mounting that R5 does not have.


@JynxLee

One vote for R5. Differences are minor but so is difference in cost IMO. Only thing you really are missing is top fan filter on front as said. Good aluminium meah filters are few euros/dollars for 120 or 140mm fan.

Also, threeway fan controller is suprisingly handy. I even bought one "spare" in case I miss it in my new case.

So, really. R5. Personally I like looks of R4 more, but it lacks many features you require.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *contay*
> 
> @JynxLee
> 
> One vote for R5. Differences are minor but so is difference in cost IMO. Only thing you really are missing is top fan filter on front as said. Good aluminium meah filters are few euros/dollars for 120 or 140mm fan.
> 
> Also, threeway fan controller is suprisingly handy. I even bought one "spare" in case I miss it in my new case.
> 
> So, really. R5. Personally I like looks of R4 more, but it lacks many features you require.


I figured I wouldn't use the fan controller much. I have all PWM fans and a swiftech 8 port pwm hub. Then I just set everything up in BIOS or sometimes FanXpert.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I figured I wouldn't use the fan controller much. I have all PWM fans and a swiftech 8 port pwm hub. Then I just set everything up in BIOS or sometimes FanXpert.


I use my buit in fan controller to control my white LED lights.
I have red led accents. The white only come on if I switch it 12v.


(thats an older picture I have a new gpu/res now)

I have also used the fan controller to control Pump RPM.

Im just pointing out it can still have use.


----------



## mesterbenji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I just installed a h110GTX for a friend.
> 
> If you run it in anything besides quiet mode in corsair link it is not quiet at all.
> 
> It is fine up to 1200rpm. The new fans go up to 2200rpm though. They can get loud. It is much louder than my h110 ever was. The H110 fans stop at 1500rpm though. So thats the difference.


I do plan on only keeping it in quiet mode and the top of the 804 has sound dampening material which is where i'll mount it, in a push configuration so any sound made by the airflow through the radiator should get eaten by the top, right side and front panel sound dampening foam.

I've checked a few sites and apparently the gain from quiet to performance is only along the lines of 3-5 degrees so why I'd ever leave it out of quiet mode with a fan cap of 1200 rpm is beyond me hehe









But with that in mind do you think it should be fine?

Had this beautiful watercooled 804 design in mind with msi mobo and graphics card and custom sleeved black, red black cables from my coolermaster V1000 in mind, would love to be able to go through with that


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesterbenji*
> 
> I do plan on only keeping it in quiet mode and the top of the 804 has sound dampening material which is where i'll mount it, in a push configuration so any sound made by the airflow through the radiator should get eaten by the top, right side and front panel sound dampening foam.
> 
> I've checked a few sites and apparently the gain from quiet to performance is only along the lines of 3-5 degrees so why I'd ever leave it out of quiet mode with a fan cap of 1200 rpm is beyond me hehe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with that in mind do you think it should be fine?
> 
> Had this beautiful watercooled 804 design in mind with msi mobo and graphics card and custom sleeved black, red black cables from my coolermaster V1000 in mind, would love to be able to go through with that


the Performance of the h110gtx was fine at 1200rpm. Using a 4790k I only seen 2c difference at 2200rpm. So you are exactly correct.

I have another beef with h110gtx though. I hate corsair link. It is buggy junk software.

It does not work with windows 10 currently im hearing as well.

For that reason the price of the h110gtx is not worth it over the h110 or h105.


----------



## PostalTwinkie

Just wanted to say how nice the R5 is. Sleek, sexy, like a Bond Girl!


----------



## mesterbenji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the Performance of the h110gtx was fine at 1200rpm. Using a 4790k I only seen 2c difference at 2200rpm. So you are exactly correct.
> 
> I have another beef with h110gtx though. I hate corsair link. It is buggy junk software.
> 
> It does not work with windows 10 currently im hearing as well.
> 
> For that reason the price of the h110gtx is not worth it over the h110 or h105.


I'm not too fuzzy with the software, besides windows 10 isn't even officially out yet









Does anyone know how the h110i gt compares to the h110 gtx and what the actual differences are looking mostly at noise and cooling.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesterbenji*
> 
> I'm not too fuzzy with the software, besides windows 10 isn't even officially out yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how the h110i gt compares to the h110 gtx and what the actual differences are looking mostly at noise and cooling.


it beats it just sligjtly in quiet mode. it does a lot better at the cost of being loud at higher speeds.


----------



## mesterbenji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> it beats it just sligjtly in quiet mode. it does a lot better at the cost of being loud at higher speeds.


I think you might be miss understanding me slightly, the h110i gtx is a new cooler that was announced on the first of june and not a setting or a typo for the other 240mm version, it's a new 280mm released after the other two 280mm's already in sale, that's why I was currious, I was asking with the following in mind.

I'll be building a system in the node 804 (matx)and the cooler will be housed in the secondary chamber, top mounted with a 1200 rpm max on the fans, so it'll always be on quiet mode essentially and in the room behind the mobo, was wondering which of the two coolers is better, h110i GT or GTX


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesterbenji*
> 
> I think you might be miss understanding me slightly, the h110i gtx is a new cooler that was announced on the first of june and not a setting or a typo for the other 240mm version, it's a new 280mm released after the other two 280mm's already in sale, that's why I was currious, I was asking with the following in mind.
> 
> I'll be building a system in the node 804 (matx)and the cooler will be housed in the secondary chamber, top mounted with a 1200 rpm max on the fans, so it'll always be on quiet mode essentially and in the room behind the mobo, was wondering which of the two coolers is better, h110i GT or GTX


I see. I just done a rig using the h110*GTX*.



Seriously doubt there is much difference in the two. The h110i GT was leaking in - 10c conditions. so the gtx is the one to get imo.
http://www.overclock3d.net/articles/cases_cooling/corsair_recalls_h110i_gt_from_retailers/1


----------



## mesterbenji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I see. I just done a rig using the h110*GTX*.
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously doubt there is much difference in the two. The h110i GT was leaking in - 10c conditions. so the gtx is the one to get imo.
> http://www.overclock3d.net/articles/cases_cooling/corsair_recalls_h110i_gt_from_retailers/1


Alright, how's your h110i gtx at 1200 rpm? is it completely silent? that's what i'm running and gunning for basically


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesterbenji*
> 
> Alright, how's your h110i gtx at 1200 rpm? is it completely silent? that's what i'm running and gunning for basically


I built that for a friend. it is reasonably quiet with quiet mode in corsair link. It is stupid loud on balanced or performance mode.

The worse thing about that cooler aside from the price is that crap corsair link software you have to run.


----------



## A49ER08

just bought a Define S case to replace my old Corsair Haf X (thing is falling apart, USB hubs are all but dead lol)

was wondering if I should keep the original h100 rad/cooler or upgrade to a gtx or h100i?
any comments?


----------



## mesterbenji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I built that for a friend. it is reasonably quiet with quiet mode in corsair link. It is stupid loud on balanced or performance mode.
> 
> The worse thing about that cooler aside from the price is that crap corsair link software you have to run.


Don't really need the link software to be honest, msi Z97M mobo will let me set up a custom fan curve in the bios for both the fans and the pump


----------



## PureBlackFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A49ER08*
> 
> just bought a Define S case to replace my old Corsair Haf X (thing is falling apart, USB hubs are all but dead lol)
> 
> was wondering if I should keep the original h100 rad/cooler or upgrade to a gtx or h100i?
> any comments?


the difference isn't worth the upgrade. and the HAF X is made by coolermaster.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesterbenji*
> 
> Don't really need the link software to be honest, msi Z97M mobo will let me set up a custom fan curve in the bios for both the fans and the pump


It wont let you control the pump speed or the light color. You could run it without but then again the h110i gt and h110gtx are both $129.

Getting a good deal on a h110 at $90 and upgrading the fans makes more sense if you're not gonna use link.

The small performance difference in the h110 and the newer models is due to the fans.


----------



## mesterbenji

Well in norway where i'm buying this the fans alone are 30 dollars a pop so nooo, not cheaper trust me bud, and I'll run the fans off the mobo just so I don't have to deal with the ramp up at boot up, the pump I don't mind dealing with through link and I like the look and led's that comes with it so ^^


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mesterbenji*
> 
> Well in norway where i'm buying this the fans alone are 30 dollars a pop so nooo, not cheaper trust me bud, and I'll run the fans off the mobo just so I don't have to deal with the ramp up at boot up, the pump I don't mind dealing with through link and I like the look and led's that comes with it so ^^


h110 is cheaper by around $30. it performs the same at matching fan RPM. no corsair link . thats all I was pointing out. If someone added fans for p/p or uprgaed the fans it would be the same performance without the link.

There is also a Extra internal USB cable to run that is sort of ugly coming off the cpu block.

The newer aio s do look much better though. that i agree with.


----------



## fisher6

Define S build kinda done. Still need to get Darkside leds for the CPU block. Sorry for the terrible picture quality.

Tubing is UV blue with Darkside's led strips but hard to see in the pictures:





Phone:


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> Define S build kinda done. Still need to get Darkside leds for the CPU block. Sorry for the terrible picture quality.
> 
> Tubing is UV blue with Darkside's led strips but hard to see in the pictures:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phone:


nice job !


----------



## JynxLee

Just picked up the define s. It's in the trunk. I'll be transferring tomorrow. Out drinking tonight with the woman







I have horrible anxiety and ocd and all I keep thinking is the front sound dampening of the r5 would have been better. I really hope there's no difference. Money's not an issue (software dev here) maybe I should just buy both so I quit this horrible worrying.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Just picked up the define s. It's in the trunk. I'll be transferring tomorrow. Out drinking tonight with the woman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have horrible anxiety and ocd and all I keep thinking is the front sound dampening of the r5 would have been better. I really hope there's no difference. Money's not an issue (software dev here) maybe I should just buy both so I quit this horrible worrying.


it will be fine. relax. go have fun!!. The build in the S will be a Joy.


----------



## JynxLee

I don't know if you have anxiety lol or ocd but that's super hard. It really will drive you crazy. Trust me I know it sounds nuts but what goes through my head is "it has the sound damp in front , but you'd need to raise the h100i in front to that 5.25 bay and it it's not meant to be there, but you'd have that xtra opening at the bottoms and extra opening on the floor etc" and it seriously makes you need a Xanax. Honestly I'll end up buying this s and then trying it for a week and then probably end up trying it in the r5 and then go from there. Anxiety + ocd sucks my friend especially in the game/business/hobby were in. Only good thing about us is in the end our stuff ends up perfect otherwise it would cause us pain lol.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I don't know if you have anxiety lol or ocd but that's super hard. It really will drive you crazy. Trust me I know it sounds nuts but what goes through my head is "it has the sound damp in front , but you'd need to raise the h100i in front to that 5.25 bay and it it's not meant to be there, but you'd have that xtra opening at the bottoms and extra opening on the floor etc" and it seriously makes you need a Xanax. Honestly I'll end up buying this s and then trying it for a week and then probably end up trying it in the r5 and then go from there. Anxiety + ocd sucks my friend especially in the game/business/hobby were in. Only good thing about us is in the end our stuff ends up perfect otherwise it would cause us pain lol.


I know what you are saying. I purchased my R5 case and had all my components out to do my first custom loop. I only had to Mount a 140 rad and the 360mm rad. It took me 5 hours to decide on which rad would go where . I mounted the 140mm in every possible location and looked at it. The 360mm would only fit in two spots but i looked at in both.

Soon as I Finished my build you know what I thought after looking over the photos ? I should have put the 360 up front lol.


----------



## khemist

I went with the 240mm rad in the front and the 360 slim 30mm rad in the top only because it looked better and also there is no 360mm filter in the front of the case.

I'm thinking of getting the Define s and sticking either my monsta 360 rad in the front or my rx360 that i've never used.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I know what you are saying. I purchased my R5 case and had all my components out to do my first custom loop. I only had to Mount a 140 rad and the 360mm rad. It took me 5 hours to decide on which rad would go where . I mounted the 140mm in every possible location and looked at it. The 360mm would only fit in two spots but i looked at in both.
> 
> Soon as I Finished my build you know what I thought after looking over the photos ? I should have put the 360 up front lol.


I specifically got a non window this time because if I can see the inside I'll keep messing with it to the point that I'm not actually using my computer for anything but a project every day.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I built that for a friend. it is reasonably quiet with quiet mode in corsair link. It is stupid loud on balanced or performance mode.


So, you just change out the fans, right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> The worse thing about that cooler aside from the price is that crap corsair link software you have to run.


What is/are the issue(s) with Corsair link software?

Thanks...


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> So, you just change out the fans, right?
> What is/are the issue(s) with Corsair link software?
> 
> Thanks...


Just saying the h110 with better fans would match performance.

Corair Link?
it is clunky. The custom profiles I setup would not save. Every reboot it would be reset.

There is no simple fan curves to set.

I could only use the canned modes and touching nothing else worked at least.

The fans run at 2200rpm until inside windows and corsair link is up every boot.

Aisuite fan expert is far from perfect. Some ppl even hate it and it is way better than corsair link.

The last thing is the internal usb cable. it is another cable that could be skipped without that software.


----------



## Year Zero

Oh how I wish they would make a R3 version of the XL. I love the features of the Define R5, but I crave the size and room of the XL R2. The XL is 2 years old now, I wish they could implement the improvements from the R5 into it.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Year Zero*
> 
> Oh how I wish they would make a R3 version of the XL. I love the features of the Define R5, but I crave the size and room of the XL R2. The XL is 2 years old now, I wish they could implement the improvements from the R5 into it.


R5 xl would be great. Or at least a matching pedistal to the R5, S would rock.


----------



## smoke2

Would like to ask of owners of Fractal R4 and Gigabyte GTX 970.
Is this card hearable in this case over fans on 5V or 7V or fans turned off at idle at night?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smoke2*
> 
> Would like to ask of owners of Fractal R4 and Gigabyte GTX 970.
> Is this card hearable in this case over fans on 5V or 7V or fans turned off at idle at night?


That is a very specific question.


----------



## JackCY

What rpms is the 970 runing and what rpms are your other fans runing, and sizes? That's what will tell.

The only thing on R4 that has any sound reducing ability is the front door compared to cases that have no door and the front fans are exposed. The rest, negligible.

I'm fine with 500-700rpm 140mm fans + 280x up to 1200-1300rpm 100mm fans, beyond that I start to notice the 280x when it spins faster.
100mm fan at 1400rpm has the same blade edge speed as 140mm fan at 1000rpm.


----------



## smoke2

My fans are 140mm and running about 500-750rpm (1000rpm fans on 12V).
The card should have 75mm fans which have almost 1600rpm.


----------



## JackCY

Below 90mm fan is pretty tiny. They really put that on 970s? Speed wise 75mm 1850rpm is about 140mm 1000rpm.
75/930 - 140mm/500rpm

But I've never liked small fans. It's like small engines revving high to get any power, compared to big engines that just idle to do the same


----------



## JynxLee

I've been looking around trying to figure out where to just order the Define R5 Window side panel. I've been on the parts link Fractal provides and it seems everything exist for the R5 and other Fractal cases except this one cases window side panel. Why is this one so elusive?


----------



## anotheraznguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I've been looking around trying to figure out where to just order the Define R5 Window side panel. I've been on the parts link Fractal provides and it seems everything exist for the R5 and other Fractal cases except this one cases window side panel. Why is this one so elusive?


talk to https://www.pugetsystems.com/ i believe they are the parts dealer in the us


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anotheraznguy*
> 
> talk to https://www.pugetsystems.com/ i believe they are the parts dealer in the us


That's where I was looking. I see lots of side panels that say "This will fit R4 and has no sound dampening"

I see nothing about the R5 window side panel.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I've been looking around trying to figure out where to just order the Define R5 Window side panel. I've been on the parts link Fractal provides and it seems everything exist for the R5 and other Fractal cases except this one cases window side panel. Why is this one so elusive?


I contacted them here http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/kontakt.php and got the White windowed side panel, it cost £22 delivered.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I contacted them here http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/kontakt.php and got the White windowed side panel, it cost £22 delivered.


Yea I figured I'll have to email Fractal, just seems odd to me that its the only one can't find and from all accounts one of the more popular cases and panel choices. But I can also say its been several days since I emailed them about something else and never received a response so I'm not sure how well there customer services stacks up. Luckily I rarely have to contact case manufactures.


----------



## lagittaja

They're CS is really good. Personally I've gotten decently fast responses from them and from what I've read and heard they're really good at solving issues. For instance if somethings wrong with your case like a failed power switch or something they'll quickly ship you a new part.
P.S. I'd rather create tickets than email them.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Yea I figured I'll have to email Fractal, just seems odd to me that its the only one can't find and from all accounts one of the more popular cases and panel choices.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> They're CS is really good. Personally I've gotten decently fast responses from them and from what I've read and heard they're really good at solving issues. For instance if somethings wrong with your case like a failed power switch or something they'll quickly ship you a new part.
> P.S. I'd rather create tickets than email them.


That's what I meant, I had a ticket open, last contact was on my part maybe 4 days ago. But I've since resolved it on my own just never heard back from them.


----------



## JackCY

4 days, you US guys really are impatient. It's normal to wait a week for responses. But I guess in US you get a response same day?


----------



## psyshack

H440 is done, out, a shell of a case now. In, is the Define S. It is such a better case for a water cooled rig. Spent the weekend transferring everything from the H440 to the Define S. It went perfect! I could live with the Define S and never have to make a mod. Unlike the H440 that screams I need mods to try and do my job. With that said. The Define S will get a few basic mods. The plastic window has to go! The blue power/hd led will be changed to red and the front panel will get opened up a tad to improve air flow. I really enjoyed doing the case change out and like the Fractal Define S.


----------



## Jyve

I bought an open box arc mini r2 from Amazon and the top plastic cover was broke. Contacted FD and they had a new one to me in less than a week. Free of charge!

Excellent CS!
Customer for life! (helps that I love their stuff)


----------



## contay

I have to say that of all companies I have dealt with while building PCs, Fractal Design and Coolermaster have best CS I have ever had business with.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 4 days, you US guys really are impatient. It's normal to wait a week for responses. But I guess in US you get a response same day?


4 days while not the end of the world is pretty long for a CS response in the US yea. Most companies will at the most advertise a "1-2 business day" response to inquiries/support.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I bought an open box arc mini r2 from Amazon and the top plastic cover was broke. Contacted FD and they had a new one to me in less than a week. Free of charge!
> 
> Excellent CS!
> Customer for life! (helps that I love their stuff)


Their customer service is awesome! I mean, a few months ago I asked if they would build something like the SilverStone ML04B and out popped the Node 202!

...I'm kidding of course, they saw the demand and released what I hope is another great case.


----------



## JackCY

I saw Node 202 on pics before, only now noticed half of it is plastic, ugh :|
Don't like plastic boxes.


----------



## Dimensive

Yea, HardwareCanucks did a review of it already. I don't mind plastic in that form factor. It's a nice looking case though.


----------



## dzb87

Hello!
I've just ordered Define R5 to replace my old Chieftec Bravo








I ordered also additional GP-14 fan.
I am going to try 3-fan configuration at first.
2x front intake
1x rear exhaust

Will it be enough for my config or should I consider ordering 1-2 fans for top exhaust? I wouldn't like to open top because there are no dust filters.

The key components are:
i7-4770k
Noctua NH-D14
Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
EVGA Supernova G2 750W PSU


----------



## Wezzor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Hello!
> I've just ordered Define R5 to replace my old Chieftec Bravo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered also additional GP-14 fan.
> I am going to try 3-fan configuration at first.
> 2x front intake
> 1x rear exhaust
> 
> Will it be enough for my config or should I consider ordering 1-2 fans for top exhaust? I wouldn't like to open top because there are no dust filters.
> 
> The key components are:
> i7-4770k
> Noctua NH-D14
> Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
> EVGA Supernova G2 750W PSU


That's exactly how I have configured my fans in my R4. Working out splendid for me at least.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Hello!
> I've just ordered Define R5 to replace my old Chieftec Bravo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered also additional GP-14 fan.
> I am going to try 3-fan configuration at first.
> 2x front intake
> 1x rear exhaust
> 
> Will it be enough for my config or should I consider ordering 1-2 fans for top exhaust? I wouldn't like to open top because there are no dust filters.
> 
> The key components are:
> i7-4770k
> Noctua NH-D14
> Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
> EVGA Supernova G2 750W PSU


You can get dust filters from demciflex for the top


----------



## JackCY

+1 bottom intake, it helps to feed cold air to GPU.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Just finished my first custom liquid cooled build. Specs Below

Intel i7 4790k at 4.0 Ghz with an EK Supremacy Water Block
EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC+ with a Swiftech Komodo Titan X Eco GPU waterblock + backplate
EVGA G2 850 Watt power supply
16GB Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM
500GB Samsung Evo M.2 SSD
1TB WD Black HDD
2TB WD Green HDD
MSI Z97s Krait Edition Motherboard
Fractal Design Define S Case
Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280mm Rad (TOP)
Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360mm Rad (FRONT)
EK D5 Vario Res pump combo
EK 250mm Res upgrade
Fractal Design Venturi Fans, 3 HP120s front, 2 HP140s top

Here is the link for more pics


http://imgur.com/a


Constructive criticism appreciated.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Hello!
> I've just ordered Define R5 to replace my old Chieftec Bravo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered also additional GP-14 fan.
> I am going to try 3-fan configuration at first.
> 2x front intake
> 1x rear exhaust
> 
> Will it be enough for my config or should I consider ordering 1-2 fans for top exhaust? I wouldn't like to open top because there are no dust filters.
> 
> The key components are:
> i7-4770k
> Noctua NH-D14
> Gigabyte 980Ti G1 Gaming
> EVGA Supernova G2 750W PSU


It's more than enough for a single GPU setup. 2:1 is what I'm running as well, 2x GP-14 as rear exhaust + lower intake, upper intake being NF-A14 which has a 120mm AIO cooler strapped to it using an adapter and is cooling my 670.
The GP14's are controlled with the integrated controller of the case, most of the time being 5V/~400rpm (low) and if I'm doing long encode sessions or game sessions I might bump them to 7V/600rpm (med).
Where as the NF-A14 is controlled by the GPU, I have a rather relaxed fan profile for it.

If I'd want more airflow for my setup then I'd add an intake to the bottom _and_ an exhaust to the rear top*.
The front panel and the dust filter restrict the air flow > just adding 1 or 2 exhausts to the top would have the case pulling in air and dust from all the unfiltered holes.
Even a single exhaust added to that 2:1 config would have the overall pressure drop to negative and have dust drawn in. Perhaps 2:2 with 140mm intakes and 120mm exhaust it wouldn't be so bad but I have a feeling more people will be using 140mm fans.

*it depends a fair bit on the setup so YMMV, best to just experiment yourself while keeping all the intakes filtered and generally trying to have the airflow balanced / positive.


----------



## ihatelolcats

the R5 is huge. just got mine today. really like the look


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> the R5 is huge. just got mine today. really like the look


huge? I guess it depends what case your coming from.

I find it to be a bigger mid atx case but would not call it huge. Especially compared to something like 900d.


----------



## Germanian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> huge? I guess it depends what case your coming from.
> 
> I find it to be a bigger mid atx case but would not call it huge. Especially compared to something like 900d.


i just took my parts out of the corsair 900d to put my parts into my new Define S. The Define S is so small


----------



## Wirerat

perspective changes everything.


----------



## PostalTwinkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> the R5 is huge. just got mine today. really like the look


Lol, I thought it looked cute and small next to the NZXT Phantom (original big ass version) that it replaced.

EDIT:

Anyone else immediately gut their R5? Zero cages in my box!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PostalTwinkie*
> 
> Lol, I thought it looked cute and small next to the NZXT Phantom (original big ass version) that it replaced.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Anyone else immediately gut their R5? Zero cages in my box!


Yeah i did to make room for rads, you can see in my rig pic.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Hi, I got the design S in the post atm, can this case fit the alphacool 360mm monsta rad and the reservoir on the front mounting section? So will there be room for the res to be fitted with the 360mm (80mm thick+ fan) rad in the front? thanks


----------



## Quarker

The R5 was a pleasure to work in, heaps of space behind the motherboard tray for cables, and best of all it's dead silent!







Temperatures are a bit of a concern though, CPU and GPU can reach mid 70's C under load, and it's winter here.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quarker*
> 
> The R5 was a pleasure to work in, heaps of space behind the motherboard tray for cables, and best of all it's dead silent!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/sspoiler]
> 
> Temperatures are a bit of a concern though, CPU and GPU can reach mid 70's C under load, and it's winter here.


70c is not terrible. If your overclocking intel its difficult to stay much lower unless you delid.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Hi, I got the design S in the post atm, can this case fit the alphacool 360mm monsta rad and the reservoir on the front mounting section? So will there be room for the res to be fitted with the 360mm (80mm thick+ fan) rad in the front? thanks


It will fit but you may have to buy a tube res holder that bolts onto your fans or rad because I dont think you will have enough space to bolt onto the wall of the case.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> It will fit but you may have to buy a tube res holder that bolts onto your fans or rad because I dont think you will have enough space to bolt onto the wall of the case.


GPU length is going to come into play.

Get the EK XE 360 it performs bettr than monsta 360 and it much thinner at 60mm thick.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> GPU length is going to come into play.


I have 120mm thick of fans and rad in the front of my case. You will only have 105mm or so. GPU wont be an issue unless you have a triple dissipation card.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> I have 120mm thick of fans and rad in the front of my case. You will only have 105mm or so. GPU wont be an issue unless you have a triple dissipation card.


yea, like those really popular gigabyte cards. Its worth pointing out.

Monsta is a waste of space when thinner rads performan better imo.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> yea, like those really popular gigabyte cards. Its worth pointing out.
> 
> Monsta is a waste of space when thinner rads performan better imo.


Well I already have the monsta, picked it up for £36 so can't complain!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> GPU length is going to come into play.
> 
> Get the EK XE 360 it performs bettr than monsta 360 and it much thinner at 60mm thick.


My gpu will be water cooled as well, 980ti with titan x block.

Do you guys recommend push or pull (both if it fits) for the monsta?


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Well I already have the monsta, picked it up for £36 so can't complain!
> 
> My gpu will be water cooled as well, 980ti with titan x block.
> 
> Do you guys recommend push or pull (both if it fits) for the monsta?


yes. what 980ti do u have?

and yea if u already have the rad might as well.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Can you fit a reservoir in the mounting grid with your 120mm thick setup? I have the reference 980Ti btw.


----------



## Wirerat

Looks like a no to me. but the res might mount to the fan on the rad.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Ah, so there will be room for the res but not to be fitted, not a problem, I will have it on top of my pump as it looks like there will be room. Thanks


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Ah, so there will be room for the res but not to be fitted, not a problem, I will have it on top of my pump as it looks like there will be room. Thanks


see how the gpus in that picture doesnt extend much past the mobo? Thats important. Ref 980ti should be fine though.


----------



## psyshack

Sounds like you have the case and rad. Don't you a have a tape measure?


----------



## Wirerat

he said it was in the mail. lol

My r5 build is in sig.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Well I will but a few pics up *when the case arrives* should be done on the 22nd.


----------



## psyshack

Awwww my bad. I took "in the post atm" to mean a post on here. And then my 3 worn out brain cells still didn't pick up on the the price paid for the Monsta verse's possible location and verbage. DUH!


----------



## D13mass

Hi guys!
I want to make my Fractal R4 was quieter and I can`t select fan for case, I thought about BitFenix Spectre Pro 140mm, but I don`t know how many fans I should use for good cooling and silence.
What I have:
Fractal Design Define R4
[email protected]
Zalman CNPS10X
MSI Z77A-G43
RAM [email protected]
MSI GTX [email protected]/8308
OCZ Vertex 4 128 Gb
HDD WD 1 Tb Blue
750W OCZ ZS

And now I installed just 2 stock fans for blowing front panel and 1 cheap fan for blow on rear panel.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Can you fit a reservoir in the mounting grid with your 120mm thick setup? I have the reference 980Ti btw.


No but you can mount it to the fan or rad with a reservoir clamp set ad bracket. The one by bitspower is low profile and cheap.


----------



## lapino

Not sure if I need to post this here, but need some help with my Fractal R4 and airflow. Since buying the GTX980Ti I have noticed airflow isn't optimal since the card is getting pretty hot. I currently have it installed like this : 1 140mm intake front (top), 2 x 140mm outtake top, 1x 140mm outtake back. CPU cooler with 120mm fan blowing through the cooler towards back.

I'm looking for the optimal cooling situation to keep the GPU cool(er). So I can swap fans around, got some extra 140mm's too. Some things to keep in mind :

* using the sidepanel fan is out of the question since the honeycomb grill makes the fan annoyingly loud
* I tried putting a 140mm in the bottom sucking air in, did not seem to make any difference. I suppose that's logical, the bottom fan is blowing air in but the fans of the videocard are blowing that cool air back down

Any thing worth trying? Changing fan intake/outtake? Adding or removing fans? Open to advice!

btw: I use the fractal fan controller for the 140mm fans, ususally at position 2 of 3.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapino*
> 
> Not sure if I need to post this here, but need some help with my Fractal R4 and airflow. Since buying the GTX980Ti I have noticed airflow isn't optimal since the card is getting pretty hot. I currently have it installed like this : 1 140mm intake front (top), 2 x 140mm outtake top, 1x 140mm outtake back. CPU cooler with 120mm fan blowing through the cooler towards back.
> 
> I'm looking for the optimal cooling situation to keep the GPU cool(er). So I can swap fans around, got some extra 140mm's too. Some things to keep in mind :
> 
> * using the sidepanel fan is out of the question since the honeycomb grill makes the fan annoyingly loud
> * I tried putting a 140mm in the bottom sucking air in, did not seem to make any difference. I suppose that's logical, the bottom fan is blowing air in but the fans of the videocard are blowing that cool air back down
> 
> Any thing worth trying? Changing fan intake/outtake? Adding or removing fans? Open to advice!
> 
> btw: I use the fractal fan controller for the 140mm fans, ususally at position 2 of 3.


All my fans are Noctua's and all are 120mm.

I have 2 fans in the front as intake.(F12)
1 fan on the bottom as intake (F12)
1 fan in the back as exhaust (S12a)
1 fan on the side panel (S12a)

I have all of the fans setup at a particular RPM's rather than a curve.

The side fan as long as its at or below 800RPM is completely silent.

I then have a very small fan curve setup on the 980 ti.


----------



## D13mass

What do you think about Noctua NF-A14 Flx , I think use it in my Fractal.


----------



## ihatelolcats

is there a trick to taking usb cables out of the top ports on the R5? it's really hard. i feel like its going to break


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> is there a trick to taking usb cables out of the top ports on the R5? it's really hard. *i feel like its going to break*


I do not have this issue at all. sounds like the cable is bent or the panel is borked somehow.


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> is there a trick to taking usb cables out of the top ports on the R5? it's really hard. *i feel like its going to break*
> 
> 
> 
> I do not have this issue at all. sounds like the cable is bent or the panel is borked somehow.
Click to expand...

the little spring clip things just have to break in i guess


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> the little spring clip things just have to break in i guess


There a little snug getting out and they have to be lined up perfectly to put them in too, if I hover them with some light its fine but sitting next to the case and reaching over trying to put a usb cable/drive in while its dark its not fun.


----------



## stephen427

Hey guys Ive finnished my Fractal Design S build. ( well sort of due to the armor on mobo I cant fit in the PCI cover which controls the leds. Ive temporary put on the psu )

specs :
mobo : ASUS SABERTOOTH X99
cpu : Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.25Ghz @ 1.180V and 4,25 on cache 1.286V
cooler : Corsair Hydro Series H105 with Noctua Industrial NF-F12's ( as intake on front of case with rad )
ram : Corsair Vengeance 4x4GB LPX DDR4 2666MHz
gpu : MSI GTX 980Ti Gaming 6G
storage : Samsung 850 EVO Series 500GB X2 and 2TB/2TB hdd's
psu : EVGA 850G2 Supernova gold rated.
case : Fractal Design Define S
case fans : Corsair AF140's Quiet Edition.

Its pretty damn awesome without much noise at all now. So do you guys like how it looks I know red is bit overdone these days but I like to emerge the devil from inside of me when gaming.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys Ive finnished my Fractal Design S build. ( well sort of due to the armor on mobo I cant fit in the PCI cover which controls the leds. Ive temporary put on the psu )
> 
> specs :
> mobo : ASUS SABERTOOTH X99
> cpu : Intel Core i7-5820K @ 4.25Ghz @ 1.159V and 4,25Ghz on cache 1.286V
> cooler : Corsair Hydro Series H105 with Noctua Industrial NF-F12's ( as intake on front of case with rad )
> ram : Corsair Vengeance 4x4GB LPX DDR4 2666MHz
> gpu : MSI GTX 980Ti Gaming 6G
> storage : Samsung 850 EVO Series 500GB X2 and 2TB/2TB hdd's
> psu : EVGA 850G2 Supernova gold rated.
> case : Fractal Design Define S
> case fans : Corsair AF140's Quiet Edition.
> 
> Its pretty damn awesome without much noise at all now. So do you guys like how it looks I know red is bit overdone these days but I like to emerge the devil from inside of me when gaming.


I wonder if the hoses on the h100i and h105 are different. I had the S originally, idn't open it and swapped it for the R5 just for the easy of access on bottom filter from the front and the front panel noise dampening. Per corsair there all supposed to be the same length. My h100i hoses were tight enough to strum like a guitar on the R5 when I mounted the rad in front and there was no slack to move it up towards the top like your's is. So for now I switched to the Noctua D15. I want to go back to an AIO when I switch to a window side panel.

On a side note, if anyone is selling or knows where to buy an R5 side panel w/ window please let me know. I've talked to pugetsystems and they just keep telling me if its not on the site its out of stock but it's been weeks now so I don't see how that's still out of stock and in such high demand. Guess I'll end up having to buy another case just for 1 part


----------



## stephen427

I have plently room for the rad either to go all the way up and down. Mine isnt all the way up but its close and I can still bend the tubes to my will.



Sorry for bad pic my phone is dead might take a close up of the tubes but its very tight like u said maybe its beceuse yours a bigger rad which is usually not fitting for front in cases. I dont know







I love this cooler thought not alot of sound with these noctuas.


----------



## joker47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> I have plently room for the rad either to go all the way up and down. Mine isnt all the way up but its close and I can still bend the tubes to my will.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for bad pic my phone is dead might take a close up of the tubes but its very tight like u said maybe its beceuse yours a bigger rad which is usually not fitting for front in cases. I dont know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this cooler thought not alot of sound with these noctuas.


How is the Noise with that cooler in the Front sind how are the temps? And did you Mount the noctuas in Push or pull? This See Noctuas Nf 14? Thanks


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> I have plently room for the rad either to go all the way up and down. Mine isnt all the way up but its close and I can still bend the tubes to my will.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for bad pic my phone is dead might take a close up of the tubes but its very tight like u said maybe its beceuse yours a bigger rad which is usually not fitting for front in cases. I dont know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this cooler thought not alot of sound with these noctuas.


Yours is no where near as tight as my h100i was, you actually have a bend in the hoses above the ram. Might was pulled so tight the hoses were pressed up against the top of the ram actually pushing the first ram slot over towards the front of the case with a lot of pressure. It wasn't comfortable. But i had it in push pull with Noctua F12's and it was whisper quiet.


----------



## stephen427

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Yours is no where near as tight as my h100i was, you actually have a bend in the hoses above the ram. Might was pulled so tight the hoses were pressed up against the top of the ram actually pushing the first ram slot over towards the front of the case with a lot of pressure. It wasn't comfortable. But i had it in push pull with Noctua F12's and it was whisper quiet.


Can I ask you is the push pull worth it with these noctuas. I was heavily confronted by actaully doing that or not. But if I can shave off some worthwhile temp while adding not much to noise im in for that. my gpu actaully needs to run at 100% fans for 75C which isnt so load for me considering everyone complains its awfull. "msi 980ti 6gaming at 1410mhz stock voltage.

My current setup is on pull. ( I dont know air goes in? . Id reconsider the extra fans even thought im running well below 75C avarage on benches with 80% on these noctuas 1600rpm but gaming loads would be 1200rpm its really soundless. Thats why I ask =) however this is at 1.180volt

And yeah you make it sound awfull mine went easy in. I dont think all tubes all created equal they are manufactured but they might aswel have some cut short id bet. You might want to contact corsair themselves on this matter. If you managed anyway it might not be worth the trouble thought.








Aida64 loads.. mind you. and these are idling now at 1234rpm noctuas.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> Can I ask you is the push pull worth it with these noctuas. I was heavily confronted by actaully doing that or not. But if I can shave off some worthwhile temp while adding not much to noise im in for that. my gpu actaully needs to run at 100% fans for 75C which isnt so load for me considering everyone complains its awfull. "msi 980ti 6gaming at 1410mhz stock voltage.
> 
> My current setup is on pull. ( I dont know air goes in? . Id reconsider the extra fans even thought im running well below 75C avarage on benches with 80% on these noctuas 1600rpm but gaming loads would be 1200rpm its really soundless. Thats why I ask =) however this is at 1.180volt
> 
> And yeah you make it sound awfull mine went easy in. I dont think all tubes all created equal they are manufactured but they might aswel have some cut short id bet. You might want to contact corsair themselves on this matter. If you managed anyway it might not be worth the trouble thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aida64 loads.. mind you. and these are idling now at 1234rpm noctuas.


I had 4 F12's they were intake on the front as I didn't want to open the top moduvents for sound reasons. It was just as quiet with 4 as it was with 2, maybe even more so since I could turn down the RPM's some. It did knock maybe 3-4 degrees in temp off and with my 980 ti right in front of the rad it actually helped keep that cool and provide more airflow into the case. And I had all the fan's already so I didn't really have a reason not to do it. Now if you have to purchase more fans to do it then maybe not worth it, but if you have the fans and the time then yea it's worth taking 10 mins to connect it and wire it all up.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> Can I ask you is the push pull worth it with these noctuas. I was heavily confronted by actaully doing that or not. But if I can shave off some worthwhile temp while adding not much to noise im in for that. my gpu actaully needs to run at 100% fans for 75C which isnt so load for me considering everyone complains its awfull. "msi 980ti 6gaming at 1410mhz stock voltage.
> 
> My current setup is on pull. ( I dont know air goes in? . Id reconsider the extra fans even thought im running well below 75C avarage on benches with 80% on these noctuas 1600rpm but gaming loads would be 1200rpm its really soundless. Thats why I ask =) however this is at 1.180volt
> 
> And yeah you make it sound awfull mine went easy in. I dont think all tubes all created equal they are manufactured but they might aswel have some cut short id bet. You might want to contact corsair themselves on this matter. If you managed anyway it might not be worth the trouble thought.


Push/pull tends to be more useful with slower speed fans. You could go push/pull and either
a) same RPM > lower temps
b) same temp > lower RPM

I couldn't quickly find a H105 P/P review but I did find couple of H100/H100i P/P reviews. The H105 is 20fpi rad vs 18 on the H100. idk the FPI on H100i.
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/corsair-h100-h100i-performance-comparison-with-sp120-fans/4/
But do note that even the "quiet" SP120's run 1450rpm.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/07/26/corsair_h100_extreme_perf_liquid_cpu_cooler_review/3
And the "low" vs crazy high on the H100 is probably quiet vs perf mode eg. up to like ~1300rpm vs up to 2000+ rpm.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephen427*
> 
> Id reconsider the extra fans even thought im running well below 75C avarage on benches with 80% on these noctuas 1600rpm but gaming loads would be 1200rpm its really soundless.


If deaf then I guess yes








1200-1600rpm even on 120mm fans is loud.

Maybe your GPU is so loud it doesn't really matter how loud the case fans are anymore.


----------



## dzb87

Hello!
I migrated my PC to Define R5 yesterday.
Everything seems to be fine but i have two questions:
1. Did you have plastic foil on your front panels? I think I watched an unboxing video where it was visible but I didn't have any protection on front panel of my case.
2. One of my top USB 2.0 ports seems to be very tight. I could not take usb stick out of it without unnatural force. Is there any solution for this issue?


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Hello!
> I migrated my PC to Define R5 yesterday.
> Everything seems to be fine but i have two questions:
> 1. Did you have plastic foil on your front panels? I think I watched an unboxing video where it was visible but I didn't have any protection on front panel of my case.
> 2. One of my top USB 2.0 ports seems to be very tight. I could not take usb stick out of it without unnatural force. Is there any solution for this issue?


I'm not sure what you mean by plastic foil.

As far as the USB ports on top, we all have problems with them both plugging in and unplugging.


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by plastic foil.


This protection on front door visible at 2:15.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> This protection on front door visible at 2:15.


No I don't recall that on mine. Either 1 that's only on the titanium one, is that yours? Or they've just changed packaging which will happen over the life of a product.


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Either 1 that's only on the titanium one, is that yours?


Nope, mine is black.
To be clear, everything with my front panel is fine - no damage, scratches etc.
Everything else looked like factory packed too.
I was just curious


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Hello!
> I migrated my PC to Define R5 yesterday.
> Everything seems to be fine but i have two questions:
> 1. Did you have plastic foil on your front panels? I think I watched an unboxing video where it was visible but I didn't have any protection on front panel of my case.
> 2. One of my top USB 2.0 ports seems to be very tight. I could not take usb stick out of it without unnatural force. Is there any solution for this issue?


1) Yes, R4 Titanium
2) Some of the USB ports may need a bit of break in. But there has been some issue before with audio ports, I think mine work fine but can be hard at first as well, anyway they will send you a replacement if yours are messed up. It's pretty normal for any connector to need a bit of break in.

---

Any other 3rd party filters than Demci? Demci have soft frame or hard plastic one like stock on FD cases? Magnetic by default? Do they make a version that has hard frame and can slide into place like stock FD filters?
How are they with filtering compared to the IMHO not so good FD filters? I can't find specs of the mesh for Demci.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Nope, mine is black.
> To be clear, everything with my front panel is fine - no damage, scratches etc.
> Everything else looked like factory packed too.
> I was just curious


If you find you have a problem with your usb ports Fractical has no problem sending out parts - Just a heads up


----------



## Drakknar

Hi everyone







First post here after quite a few time looking for various bits of info on the forum and through the website; I've been a member of the Fractal Design family since about 3 years, when I purchased my current R3 Silver Arrow. I'm putting together a new build, and with different heat dissipation requirements I'm afraid that the time for an upgrade might have come, so I would like to ask for your advice as I'm not an expert when it comes to case configs, cooling systems and air flows.

My new work and gaming config will be an Intel i7-5960x (that I will mildly overclock, probably to 3.5 / 3.8 GHz), an ASRock Extreme6 ATX mobo, a Seasonic X-1050 PSU (just in case I should go for a 980 Ti SLI in the future), 16GB RAM, a couple SSDs (256GB 840 EVO as OS disk and 1TB 850 Pro as media editing / fast access data disk), a WD Caviar Green 1TB as a backup disk / windows file history disk, a Sound Blaster Zx, a DVD burner (I can remove that if necessary) and a MSI GTX 980 Ti Gaming 6g.

To cool down the system I originally thought to pick a Noctua NH-D15, but as far as I could read from varous sources, an AIO cooling system such as the H100i GTX or H110i GT provides better performances while being almost as quiet, especially when coupled with Noctua PWM fans. My understanding is that there is basically no way to fit such a liquid cooling in my current case, and even the NH-D15 would be a tight fit (I have calculated that I may only be able to run it with a single fan because of the height of the RAM modules).

Another reason of concern on traditional air cooling is that my studio room is always exposed to the sun, and on my latitudes during summer time it can get quite hot (outside temps can reach 32 to 36 degrees celsius, with about 28-30 degrees or maybe more inside temps after some time), and with the case underneath my desk the air circulation can really get non optimal.

Given these premises, do you think that the R5 could be a good choice? Will I be able to fit a H110i GT + Noctua fans in a way to keep my air-cooled 980Ti under decent temps, or should I forget AIO and simply go for the NH-D15?


----------



## JackCY

Personally, the only advantage I see AIO has over high end air coolers is the lower weight attached to the mobo. Otherwise they are noisier, even more expensive and performance varies depending on how big a radiator they have and what fans are coupled with them.
R5 should fit anything fine.

If you have a PC under a desk or in a desk, have a big hole in front and behind the PC. I mean as big hole as the case is. Or put it next to a desk.

Do I hear right in a review that Corsair rads are actually aluminum for H110i GT? Pass, no thank you. If AIO, I would really rather go with Swiftech H240-X or something similar. Potentially expandable, copper. Or even ditch the AIO and just build it yourself instead since money is obviously not a concern for you. To beat an NH-D15 you really need a very good water cooler which often costs way more than NH-D15.


----------



## JynxLee

I've used both an AIO and the D15 in the R5. Honestly my real world impressions are simply, whichever you want. If you use good fans on an AIO noise really isn't an issue especially in this case. And if you use a side panel window. If you want to see the AIO use it, if you want to see the majority of the window as the tower cooler, use it. Temps were roughly the same.

So unless your sitting there nightly with your temp gun in one hand and your dB reader the other, while writing down and comparing numbers then maybe it will matter. Otherwise if your cooling your PC, wanting some quiet and want to use your computer for what you built it for then just pick whichever one you like best.


----------



## fisher6

If money isn't an issue and your room can get home in the summer you might as well just build a custom loop or at least pick an expendable AIO like the h220 or h240.


----------



## JackCY

*get an AC


----------



## joker47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I've used both an AIO and the D15 in the R5. Honestly my real world impressions are simply, whichever you want. If you use good fans on an AIO noise really isn't an issue especially in this case. And if you use a side panel window. If you want to see the AIO use it, if you want to see the majority of the window as the tower cooler, use it. Temps were roughly the same.
> 
> So unless your sitting there nightly with your temp gun in one hand and your dB reader the other, while writing down and comparing numbers then maybe it will matter. Otherwise if your cooling your PC, wanting some quiet and want to use your computer for what you built it for then just pick whichever one you like best.


How did you Mount the aio in that Case? Front or top? I am planning to put it in the top. But i am not sure how much more noisy the case is then? And how is the temp of the graphics card, i am scared it will be too hot and Need to Spin at high rpm to cool it down!


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joker47*
> 
> How did you Mount the aio in that Case? Front or top? I am planning to put it in the top. But i am not sure how much more noisy the case is then? And how is the temp of the graphics card, i am scared it will be too hot and Need to Spin at high rpm to cool it down!


I wanted to avoid opening moduvents so I had mine in the front with a push/pull intake. Was completely quiet and completely cool.


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 1) Yes, R4 Titanium
> 2) Some of the USB ports may need a bit of break in. But there has been some issue before with audio ports, I think mine work fine but can be hard at first as well, anyway they will send you a replacement if yours are messed up. It's pretty normal for any connector to need a bit of break in.


Ok, so this can be only used for titanium version.

Another question:
*Which fan to choose for Define R5 bottom?*
120mm is a must because of my long PSU.

Currently I have in my case:
3x Fractal GP-14 connected to fan controller set to middle position (7V?).

And on CPU (Noctua NH-D14):
1x Noctua NF-P12 via ULN adaptor (900rpm)
1x Noctua NF-P14 via LN adaptor (900rpm)

I would like some Noctua product to match colours of my CPU cooling








Which one to choose?
Another Noctua NF-P12? Or maybe NF-S12A FLX?
I wouldn't like to make my setup louder than it is now so the new fan would be also used with LN/ULN adaptor.


----------



## lapino

Which cpu cooler would you guys recommend to keep the heat inside the case to a minimum?


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Ok, so this can be only used for titanium version.
> 
> Another question:
> *Which fan to choose for Define R5 bottom?*
> 120mm is a must because of my long PSU.
> 
> Currently I have in my case:
> 3x Fractal GP-14 connected to fan controller set to middle position (7V?).
> 
> And on CPU (Noctua NH-D14):
> 1x Noctua NF-P12 via ULN adaptor (900rpm)
> 1x Noctua NF-P14 via LN adaptor (900rpm)
> 
> I would like some Noctua product to match colours of my CPU cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which one to choose?
> Another Noctua NF-P12? Or maybe NF-S12A FLX?
> I wouldn't like to make my setup louder than it is now so the new fan would be also used with LN/ULN adaptor.


I still don't see the point in ULN adapters. I mean I guess I can for DC fan's if being powered on the PSU but w/ Mobo's controlling both PWM and DC why not just setup a fan curve? Or let Bios control or set RPM's at 900 or you can easily change it to whatever you want?


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> I still don't see the point in ULN adapters. I mean I guess I can for DC fan's if being powered on the PSU but w/ Mobo's controlling both PWM and DC why not just setup a fan curve? Or let Bios control or set RPM's at 900 or you can easily change it to whatever you want?


There is some problem with my current MoBo (Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H) and PWM control.
Everything is described here.
I didn't make any deeper research of this issue but it seems to be true. There is only one fan connector that works with PWM.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> There is some problem with my current MoBo (Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H) and PWM control.
> Everything is described here.
> I didn't make any deeper research of this issue but it seems to be true. There is only one fan connector that works with PWM.


Gottcha.

Currently I'm using

140mm back
140mm top
120mm side (cooling gtx 980 ti)
120mm floor
2x 120mm front

NH-D15 on the CPU.

Everything is set to a fixed RPM which I just raise each one till I can hear it then go down a bit and just save the profile in FanXpert.


----------



## JackCY

I doubt the black version is painted, Titanium one is and comes with a plastic over the paint.

I have 140mm in R4 bottom with 180mm PSU. Various pics in gallery.



Shouldn't be an issue with R5.


Unless you use the rattle cages I suppose, then a 140mm won't fit flush much.

I always connect all fans to the motherboard and have them controlled by CPU temperatures.
From Noctua personally I would go for Redux NF-P14 or IPPC. But even Redux is overpriced and IPPC costs through the roof.

---

CPU cooler with minimum in case temperature?
Water with a radiator mounted outside the case or on exhaust port at least.
Unless you are storing an ice cream in your case I don't see why in case temperature is an issue so it has to be minimal. Most CPU coolers that blow air right out of the case will keep inside temperature decent. Getting GPU heat out of the case is much much worse and there is more of it than from CPU on any middle and higher end GPU.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*


What is your hdd mounted too?


----------



## lapino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> What is your hdd mounted too?


²


----------



## JackCY

Levitation









Suspended on rubber cord. The HDD (Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001) is pretty quiet itself and even the little vibration it makes doesn't get transferred anywhere. I may rarely notice the HDD is there if it turns on/off from sleep but that's it, just the 7200rpm spinning noise. Fans at 500rpm is all I hear otherwise.

Here is a few demos from previous posts:


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Levitation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suspended on rubber cords. The HDD (Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM001) is pretty quiet itself and even the little vibration it makes doesn't get transferred anywhere. I may rarely notice the HDD is there if it turns on/off from sleep but that's it. Fans at 500rpm is all I hear otherwise.
> 
> Here is a few demos from previous posts:


I like it. I'm waiting on one more ssd and then I'm taking the hdd out of the case along with the small drive cage and just using my 2 ssd's in back in raid0. Anything else will be external storage and cloud based but I'll have more then enough internal really.


----------



## lapino

Been thinking about doing that too. Most games I play regularly are on ssd's and I suppose using USB3 external drives would be fast enough. Is there a large difference between USB3 and SATA directly to the mobo?


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapino*
> 
> Been thinking about doing that too. Most games I play regularly are on ssd's and I suppose using USB3 external drives would be fast enough. Is there a large difference between USB3 and SATA directly to the mobo?


In theory there shouldn't be but it just doesn't work out like that. For the most part if your using all USB 3.0 compliant drives/cables then you shouldn't really notice a lot. And I'm more talking storage here, if your reading/writing to it a lot then you may notice and may want something like eSata.


----------



## Weber

Define s build just started. Swiftech 240x exhaust top, 3xPH-F140SP red input front, 1xPH-F140SP red out back.
GP14 input on bottom. I may expand the loop for 980 Ti Hydro. Either spare 2x240GB SSD raid 0 or buy
the SAMSUNG SM951. I have some DDR4, installing win7. Still waiting for a z170 mobo and i7-6700K to power this up.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> Define s build just started. Swiftech 240x exhaust top, 3xPH-F140SP red input front, 1xPH-F140SP red out back.
> GP14 input on bottom. I may expand the loop for 980 Ti Hydro. Either spare 2x240GB SSD raid 0 or buy
> the SAMSUNG SM951. I have some DDR4, installing win7. Still waiting for a z170 mobo and i7-6700K to power this up.


Do you know if the Swiftech 240x or 220x are enough for SLI?


----------



## SKRiPTT

Finally finished my FRACTAL Define R4 "The White Dragon" project. What do you think guys?









*Click on banner for full gallery!*
https://picsurge.com/g/qQFgzL
(Canon EOS 70D + Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS )

*Full specs:*
Intel Xeon E3-1231 v3 + Cryorig R1 Universal
Kingston Fury 16GB 1866Mhz
MSI H97 Gaming 3
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB / Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200rpm.
ASUS GTX970 Strix
Super Flower Leadex 80plus Gold 650W White
FRACTAL Define R4 Arctic White
2x BitFenix Spectre PRO 140mm White (Intake) + 1x Fractal Define 140mm (Outtake)

*Benchmarks:*
3DMark: 9724
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7749287
3DMark 11: P12913
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/10048228


----------



## Weber

I doubt you would be happy with a single rad with that much heat. Also, the pump is small with sli and another rad. Change pump (lose lights) or add 2nd pump, and add front mounted rad. I have a 220 rad in reserve for just a single 980ti, I may have to go bigger for sli.
Here's a discussion of that question: forums.swiftech.org


----------



## JynxLee

So from that, there saying the pump is fine just add another 360mm rador 420mm rad


----------



## joker47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> Define s build just started. Swiftech 240x exhaust top, 3xPH-F140SP red input front, 1xPH-F140SP red out back.
> GP14 input on bottom. I may expand the loop for 980 Ti Hydro. Either spare 2x240GB SSD raid 0 or buy
> the SAMSUNG SM951. I have some DDR4, installing win7. Still waiting for a z170 mobo and i7-6700K to power this up.


That config is actually what i have planned too. I am curious to see the temps and how much noise it makes like that. The Fans on the radiator are in pull right?


----------



## Weber

Ya, there was a different post where their support said the pump was too small for more than 3 extra things , so 2 video and one rad is ok but near the line. I'll be trying the pump first before I replace it. My 240x is sucking out of the case and is helped by the fans blowing air in the front. You may lose the front, top right fan when a front dual rad is added but there is still room to move that fan to the top of the case.

edit: added picture, I don't like the 240 in the front, I ordered a thick 280. Also will look into swapping the top fan and 240x to get cooler air on the top.


----------



## Drakknar

First of all, many thanks for your replies









After reading your advices I'm oriented to get the NH-D15 together with 2x240mm fans to improve the air intake from the front of the case. I will try to fit everything into my existing R3 and then I'll decide whether I will want to upgrade to the R5 or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> *get an AC


I wish... but in my flat there's no way to mount a split A/C unit; I tried to go for a portable one and the noise was close to unbearable. If the heat wave will continue I may try a different model with a better construction quality and a "Silent" mode... although in such a small case it's difficult to reduce the noise from both the fan and the compressor









On a more serious note, the X99 Extreme6 despite not being the top of the line should be very sturdy, so I don't really mind the weight. I would like to pick a quality component that will keep my cpu cool and safe for the longest time with the .5 / .7 GHz overclock.

There is some space around the case: on the front, a little bit on the back and then a whole lot on the right side. Both a rad and an air cooler should be OK. I guess it all depends on how much air they require to operate at their full potential.

I have checked for the Swiftech H240-X, but I could only find it from an unknown dutch reseller. Moreover, I don't really know the brand and I don't know how they handle RMA in Europe, how their warranty terms are, etc. (for instance, I have heard that Corsair refunded some of their clients who had their system damaged because of liquid leak. How would Swiftech react in such cases?).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fisher6*
> 
> If money isn't an issue and your room can get home in the summer you might as well just build a custom loop or at least pick an expendable AIO like the h220 or h240.


The h100i / h110i would be my first water cooling system, so unfortunately I don't have the experience nor the knowledge (nor the money







) to put together a custom-made water block. The new case + the Corsair + the two extra Noctua fans would already stretch my budget, but I'd be happy to do so if it's more reliable and cooler. I will leave the 980 Ti on stock settings, so would it make any sense to go for a custom loop or an expandable AIO? I'm basically looking to cool down my CPU and that's pretty much it


----------



## JackCY

AC would be nice here too today. Impossible to open a window from morning till evening.

In EU the seller handles the warranty for 2 years required, after that either still the shop or an authorized service center/manufacturer/never had to deal with that in EU yet.
Granted Swiftech is a US company and their international presence is poor as is usual for US companies. Hard to find their products sold by any decent bigger shops/resellers in EU.
They list some resellers on their outdated list on swiftech.com. Sure availability can be a determining factor whether to buy or pass Swiftech.

Personally I don't like the weight of air coolers when it's around and over 1kg. I would go with a water loop for such high end system.


----------



## Drakknar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> In EU the seller handles the warranty for 2 years required, after that either still the shop or an authorized service center/manufacturer/never had to deal with that in EU yet. Granted Swiftech is a US company and their international presence is poor as is usual for US companies. Hard to find their products sold by any decent bigger shops/resellers in EU. They list some resellers on their outdated list on swiftech.com. Sure availability can be a determining factor whether to buy or pass Swiftech. Personally I don't like the weight of air coolers when it's around and over 1kg. I would go with a water loop for such high end system.


I checked the reseller list, but either they don't exist anymore or they don't even that product in their catalogue. The other problem is that despite the EU law, if a store has a bad customer service it can take ages and a lot of wasted time and efforts to get a product RMA'd. More so if it's a small e-store in another country.

So today I picked up the components from my local reseller, and I was given the NH-D15 with the promise that if it doesn't fit my needs he will refund the money and exchange it for the Corsair H110i (and a new case). I must say... man, this thing is huuuuuge!







All things considered, though, everything seems to fit quite well into my R3, with the only exception being the second fan of the Noctua. I'm planning to get two 120mm NF-P12 and add one on the cooler and the other on the front intake.




I did some tests and OC and I think I can settle at 3.8GHz, vcore 1.000V (with a maximum peak full load at 1.025V). In my _very warm room_ is stable, idling from 35/45 °C (96-120 °F) and tested with Intel XTU (60/65 °C - 138/149 °F), Asus realbench (70/73 °C - 161-163°F) and AIDA64 (similar temps to the Intel XTU).




Given the warm environment, the temps should be ok for an overclocked machine, isn't it? Hopefully with the improved case air circulation I can keep my temps around 65 °C un RealBench. If so, I may call it a day and keep the case and the fan. Otherwise I'll probably go for the R5 and the H110i + Noctua fans







At least it's good to know that the new mobo, cpu, ram and video card are fully working!


----------



## JackCY

Underclocked to 1.8GHz at 1.00V?
My 4690K didn't complain about 3.5GHz at 0.95V, not that the reduced heat was any considerable amount, a few C on temps. otherwise not noticeable. The GPU is what makes most heat.

Those drive cages make me cry!


----------



## Drakknar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Underclocked to 1.8GHz at 1.00V?
> My 4690K didn't complain about 3.5GHz at 0.95V, not that the reduced heat was any considerable amount, a few C on temps. otherwise not noticeable. The GPU is what makes most heat.
> 
> Those drive cages make me cry!


My bad, sorry... 3.8GHz!







The default settings were kinda crazy... stock cpu frequency at 1.140V (static... I don't know why they didn't enable adaptive voltage by default).... Unbelievable!

I know, I wish I could have two modular cages like the R4 and R5; I would place the HDD/SSDs on the bottom and leave most of the front clean for a better air intake (or for a liquid cooler rad). Now that I'm closing the case, I'll at least remove all the unused hdd trays. I don't have any side window so I guess that no-one will complain


----------



## JackCY

I would unscrew the whole cage contraption and place the drives anywhere around the case. SSDs are easy to just throw behind motherboard. Velcro the HDD to the bottom or something. I have mine suspended.


----------



## Drakknar

The problem is that the cage in the R3 can't be screwed; each corner is held in place with rivets. To do so, I would have to "destroy" the case.


----------



## JackCY

Drill them out, rivets can always be replaced with screws and nuts.
Or a large hammer to solve the case issue once and for all


----------



## D13mass

Today I bought 4 fans NF-A14 http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=52&lng=en
It`s very cool! Installed with adapter Low-Noise=1050 RPM and enjoy the silence.
2 on top
1 on rear
1 below


----------



## tabascosauz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Today I bought 4 fans NF-A14 http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=52&lng=en
> It`s very cool! Installed with adapter Low-Noise=1050 RPM and enjoy the silence.
> 2 on top
> 1 on rear
> 1 below


FLX or PWM?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> FLX or PWM?


Link goes to FLX and 1050rpm with LNA matches with FLX


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tabascosauz*
> 
> FLX or PWM?


FLX


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Link goes to FLX and 1050rpm with LNA matches with FLX










thanks!


----------



## dzb87

Are there any photos of Define R5 with Demciflex 3-vent top filter?
Why there are no filtered single moduvents? I think users would be pleased if Fractal introduced them.


----------



## lurker2501

Thought I'd share how my machine looks like before I switch to the Define S. Updates will be in the build log as well.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Are there any photos of Define R5 with Demciflex 3-vent top filter?
> Why there are no filtered single moduvents? I think users would be pleased if Fractal introduced them.


I posted this in the thread a few times. Here is another. it cost $26 to have ppcs custom order it from demci.


----------



## JackCY

You can order it from Demci directly.

Just got a reply from them, the filters are 100 microns ~ (140 mesh).
Whether they can make or not a hard solid frame, no reply :/ I suppose still not. Prices are way over the top anyway








I will just buy a mesh elsewhere and DIY. Already found meshes from (250-30 microns) ~ 60-500 mesh.

The stock filter on front of R4 seems like (420microns) ~ 38 mesh.
Bottom (700 microns) ~ 28 mesh.

Anyone know of some good sources for a mesh with thin wires? Any idea what Demci uses exactly? It's pretty impossible to find and most seem to be sold to companies in bulk through god knows what distribution channels. Luckily Chinese resellers aren't as greedy nor secretive with items and will sell anything to anyone anywhere.

It's the bottom filter that mostly bothers me. Demci must be nice but with 100 microns, you gotta clean it all the freakin' time.


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> I posted this in the thread a few times. Here is another. it cost $26 to have ppcs custom order it from demci.


Doesn't look imo...
Why didn't you buy dedicated model? (from my link in previous post)

Wysłane z mojego SM-G900F przy użyciu Tapatalka


----------



## JackCY

Why not get it here?
http://www.demcifilter.com/c245/FRACTAL-DESIGN-R5.aspx
http://www.demcifilter.com/p0568/Fractal-Design-R5-2-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx
http://www.demcifilter.com/p0564/Fractal-Design-R5-3-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx

They have all the filters for R5, also a whole kit.
Why pay yet another reseller/distributor...


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You can order it from Demci directly.
> 
> Just got a reply from them, the filters are 100 microns ~ (140 mesh).
> Whether they can make or not a hard solid frame, no reply :/ I suppose still not. Prices are way over the top anyway
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will just buy a mesh elsewhere and DIY. Already found meshes from (250-30 microns) ~ 60-500 mesh.
> 
> The stock filter on front of R4 seems like (420microns) ~ 38 mesh.
> Bottom (700 microns) ~ 28 mesh.
> 
> Anyone know of some good sources for a mesh with thin wires? Any idea what Demci uses exactly? It's pretty impossible to find and most seem to be sold to companies in bulk through god knows what distribution channels. Luckily Chinese resellers aren't as greedy nor secretive with items and will sell anything to anyone anywhere.
> 
> It's the bottom filter that mostly bothers me. Demci must be nice but with 100 microns, you gotta clean it all the freakin' time.


I've personally dealt with themeshcompany.com several times. Nice range of products and decent pricing. For example SS mesh from 10mm aperture to 0.026mm aperture with total over 80 different apertures.
For example A3 sheet (300x420mm) of SS mesh is 8.99£ between #40-#300.
From that sheet you could make two 3x140mm filters. You can also get them custom cut to your specific size.

E: Looked at my Define R5 front filter and grabbed a measure and my camera. Looks like it's in the ballpark of 600-700 microns. By eye the bottom seems identical to the front one.


----------



## JackCY

Looking at the same sheet size.
#200 Mesh - 0.099mm Aperture - 0.028mm Wire Diameter - SS304 Grade - Woven Wire Mesh
is a 100 micron ~ 0.099mm.
I see 100, 150, 200 micron decent stainless steel there.
eBay shop too but prices are worse including shipping.

8.99GBP price and 8.50GBP shipping, I like but I think I'm gonna pass. Very nice mesh though.


----------



## Wirerat

The DEMCi pre made looks like it is made to fit on the outside of the moduvents judging from the measurements. I had one made to fit inside. The Premade Demci were *not* available when the R5 first came out.

415mm X 180mm to fit on the inside of the moduvent area. The premade are 460mm x 194mm. It may look fine that way but the edge will be noticeable from the side.

PPCS only charged me 19.95 + shippinjg. Its just that with priorty mail + tax it came to $26.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Doesn't look imo...
> Why didn't you buy dedicated model? (from my link in previous post)


Too bad it does not get your approval.









it is doing the job I need it to do. I clean the filters every couple of months and there is very little dust on the fan blades, rads or inside the case.









The gentle typhoon AP15s still blow plenty of air even through the fine mesh.


----------



## Jyve

I like it. Looks good. Certainly much better than opening up the vent system.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I like it. Looks good. Certainly much better than opening up the vent system.


im happy with it. It is nice demci has them premade now.


----------



## gftgy

Anyone with an R5 mind breaking out their tape measure for me? I'm trying to determine whether a build will fit.

The idea is to have a 280mm rad in the front, 140mm rad on the bottom, and 140mm rad at rear exhaust. All radiators will be in a push-pull setup with 25mm thick fans.
According to their possible fan locations sheet, the case will support 140mm fans in all of those locations. Their water cooling radiator options sheet suggests that a 280mm rad in front, and 140mm on bottom and 140mm in back will also fit. However, the Radiator Compatibility Chart doesn't say anything about a 140mm radiator being supported on the bottom!

So I'm wondering: How much space do I actually have? On the inside bottom of the case, assuming a 140mm rad is placed in the middle, how much space is available for the power supply and its associated cabling? Could the rad maybe be rotated 90 degrees to provide more room? Could the fan (and radiator) be pushed further forward and mounted on the vent holes to provide more room for the power supply? How much space is available for the front fans and radiator?

Also, while we're at it, just how much room is available for the motherboard? The case is listed as supporting ATX (305 × 244 mm), but not E-ATX (305 × 330 mm). However, some motherboards listed as E-ATX are only 305 × 257 mm or 267 mm wide, would those fit?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Anyone with an R5 mind breaking out their tape measure for me? I'm trying to determine whether a build will fit.
> 
> The idea is to have a 280mm rad in the front, 140mm rad on the bottom, and 140mm rad at rear exhaust. All radiators will be in a push-pull setup with 25mm thick fans.
> According to their possible fan locations sheet, the case will support 140mm fans in all of those locations. Their water cooling radiator options sheet suggests that a 280mm rad in front, and 140mm on bottom and 140mm in back will also fit. However, the Radiator Compatibility Chart doesn't say anything about a 140mm radiator being supported on the bottom!
> 
> So I'm wondering: How much space do I actually have? On the inside bottom of the case, assuming a 140mm rad is placed in the middle, how much space is available for the power supply and its associated cabling? Could the rad maybe be rotated 90 degrees to provide more room? Could the fan (and radiator) be pushed further forward and mounted on the vent holes to provide more room for the power supply? How much space is available for the front fans and radiator?
> 
> Also, while we're at it, just how much room is available for the motherboard? The case is listed as supporting ATX (305 × 244 mm), but not E-ATX (305 × 330 mm). However, some motherboards listed as E-ATX are only 305 × 257 mm or 267 mm wide, would those fit?
> 
> Thanks for the help!


1. 280mm front = check, no issues. You can go as thick as your gpu allows.

2. 140mm bottom = check but if you have a large psu the 140mm may need to scoot forward some. It can mount anywhere between the fan mounts not just all the way forward or all the way against the psu.

3. rear 140mm = check there are sliders that allow you to move the fan/rad/fan up or down about 3 inches as needed. The only issue I see here is if your mobo has one of those heatsinks thats connected to a bulky i/o cover thing.

4. Eatx = not going to work without modding. The way the mobo is recessed is what causes the issues. There are photos earlier in the thread.


----------



## khemist

Do you really need the 140mm rad in the bottom and rear?, it will look fugly if you ask me and be blocked by some psu cables.

If you are just trying to save on buying rads then fine but it would look a lot better with a 360 and 240

I'm going to redo mine soon and i've got a bunch of rads i've never even used to try out... just bought a sweet cpu block also even thought the one i have is fine and performs great.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Do you really need the 140mm rad in the bottom and rear?, it will look fugly if you ask me and be blocked by some psu cables.
> 
> If you are just trying to save on buying rads then fine but it would look a lot better with a 360 and 240
> 
> I'm going to redo mine soon and i've got a bunch of rads i've never even used to try out... just bought a sweet cpu block also even thought the one i have is fine and performs great.


A 280 up front scooted to front top and middle slots. Only the 4 screws would hold it with the top half floated but its fine.

I would go 280 front 240 bottum if trying to keep moduvents closed.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> 1. 280mm front = check, no issues. You can go as thick as your gpu allows.
> 
> 2. 140mm bottom = check but if you have a large psu the 140mm may need to scoot forward some. It can mount anywhere between the fan mounts not just all the way forward or all the way against the psu.
> 
> 3. rear 140mm = check there are sliders that allow you to move the fan/rad/fan up or down about 3 inches as needed. The only issue I see here is if your mobo has one of those heatsinks thats connected to a bulky i/o cover thing.
> 
> 4. Eatx = not going to work without modding. The way the mobo is recessed is what causes the issues. There are photos earlier in the thread.


Can I pretty, pretty please get some measurements?

It sounds like you're saying the bottom vent holes are the appropriate diameter and position to mount the bottom fans and radiator, so I don't have to use the specific mounting holes. Correct? That still leaves me to wonder whether there is enough room for the radiator to be placed perpendicular to the front of the case, or whether it will only fit lengthwise. How much space is inbetween the bottom 140mm fan mounts and the motherboard tray/internal wall? Maybe the radiator could extend into the cable-routing grommet for a few extra mm? How high and how large is the rubber grommet? Specific measurements of the space available would really help here.

Suppose I wanted to use the mounting holes on the bottom of the case. How much space do I have for the power supply and cabling? 165mm total? 190mm? How much space do I have for the front radiator? I figure the bottom radiator will be further forward than the graphics card, limiting the width of the front radiator. With 25mm fans in push-pull, can I fit a 45mm radiator? 60mm? Measurements are very valuable.

What are the dimensions of the recessed motherboard tray, exactly? Obviously I can't fit a full E-ATX. But can I fit a motherboard that measures 305 by 257mm?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Do you really need the 140mm rad in the bottom and rear?, it will look fugly if you ask me and be blocked by some psu cables.


I am designing for function first, not aesthetics.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## JackCY

You can make decent measurements from pictures and known dimensions, try fitting the components in there.

EATX, it's been Q&A here many times, some boards fit, some are too large, depends on what mobo and if you want to keep the grommets or not. You could always cut it out with a dremel to fit any mobo.
FD designed the case as a middle tower for ATX. Not a full tower for EATX. I guess it helps with cables and space for them, but personally if it were in the way for EATX I would just cut it off, not put there like FD did. The botom is nice, more space for cables but the right side, nope nope nope, hate it even on R4, just chop it out right where the mobo ends, no need to bend cables at hard angles into grommets and what not.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You can make decent measurements from pictures and known dimensions, try fitting the components in there.


Honestly, that's what I've been more or less trying to do for two weeks, but since I might be working with a build that will have only a few millimeters of clearance at question areas, the estimations I can make from pictures aren't accurate enough. It's been hard to find good pictures of the internals of the case, particularly the bottom in question. Simply knowing the internal length of the case (and how much the front fans might extend from that) would be a huge help, but I haven't been able to find that anywhere. According to their site, the case is 521mm long, but I don't know how much of that is taken by the front panel and frame, and how much of that is usable internal space.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Do you know if the Swiftech 240x or 220x are enough for SLI?


Yes and no and also depends on what you are cooling and room temps.

Was surprised to see these temps on just a 240mm rad.


----------



## Weber

I want to cool a 6700k and 2 x 980ti hydro's, this concept might work. I moved the 240x forward enough to get a 140 on the back. I got 6 screws on the 240x without drilling. If the board puts a video card in the first slot, this would be a problem. I should have tried to rotate the 140 and use 90 degree fittings. I'm trying to get the coolest air on the rads, 4 fans in, 3 fans out, good anti dust pressure.


----------



## gftgy

Not to be impatient or ungrateful, but can someone please tell me the distance from the rear of an installed 25mm front fan to the back inside wall of the case in an R5?

If you're feeling particularly generous, you can also tell me the distance from the back of the case to the 140mm fan mount on the bottom.


----------



## Jflisk

Do we have a Fractal design rep. Thanks


----------



## dzb87

Asked FD about some moduvent-like dedicated dust filters.
They consider doing something like that although can give no promise at this point.
Let's hope it won't be only for future cases. (R6)


----------



## JackCY

Like why? There are tons of 140mm, etc. filters out there to put on the case. Moduvent like, what does that mean? Those moduvents are nothing more than a piece of plastic with a open cell foam glued to them, that's it, other than covering the fan port they have no other function and their noise dampening is about as good as anything else you would cover the port with








Fancy name for a simple thing.


----------



## Willius

My Fractal Design Define S.
I5 4670k @ 4.4ghz at 1.231v
Asus GTX 970 strix
Seasonic 520w PSU

All EKWB cooled, except for the top rad. That's from Alphacool, the UT60 model.
All my 5 rad fans are the Vardar 1850 models. Really loving them.

Sorry for the bad quality picture, it was taken with my iPhone 6.

Greetings Willius


----------



## Phillychuck

Moved my stuff into a Define R5. I seem to buy my stuff based on hype meters, but the R5 does seem like the end game case. Not sure what improvements could be made in this type of case.


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Like why? There are tons of 140mm, etc. filters out there to put on the case. Moduvent like, what does that mean? Those moduvents are nothing more than a piece of plastic with a open cell foam glued to them, that's it, other than covering the fan port they have no other function and their noise dampening is about as good as anything else you would cover the port with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fancy name for a simple thing.


It means panels matched to moduvent look, size, fixing... and... with holes and dust filter








Sure, can get custom filter but it always spoils case's look - one of the main advantages.


----------



## rwisdaman

My R2 build coming along nicely......not much left now except case painting someday and a few more tweeks here and there.

http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Sivine/media/toys n stuff/slr001_zps11a9f66e.jpg.html

A shot in the dark.....

http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Sivine/media/toys n stuff/IMG_1797_zpsnube9flm.jpg.html


----------



## JackCY

Moduvent look right there:
Not that you can see them from the outside anyway. At least they are screwed in, that is before the plastic strips very quickly just by remounting them once.


Maybe nicer aesthetics when closed but the attachment is just a snap on plastic that breaks too










What bothers me more are the honeycomb grills still all over the case, something that is best cut the heck out.
R5 has moduvents attached from outside and has thinner foam.

The stock FD filters are coarse a lot, something worth replacing anyway.


----------



## Volvo

Still running a 1st gen Define Mini here.

Love the damn thing to bits.
Only thing I couldn't agree with was the left-side door having a bulging vent.

That wouldn't sit with me, so I found a somewhat warped chassis with an unharmed right-side door, and bought the thing off the dude for the price of lunch.


----------



## JynxLee

I haven't looked at this yet, just sitting at work thinking about some things but is there anyway you put a spliter on the R5's fan controller to control more than 3 fans. Just thinking I have a bunch of Noctua's and a Swiftech PWM 8 port splitter.


----------



## gftgy

The R5's fan controller cycles the output power between 5V, 7V, and 12V. I wouldn't recommend trying to control PWM fans through it.

Otherwise, yes, you can use a splitter to control more fans via the voltage selector up to its maximum wattage (which I don't know).


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> The R5's fan controller cycles the output power between 5V, 7V, and 12V. I wouldn't recommend trying to control PWM fans through it.
> 
> Otherwise, yes, you can use a splitter to control more fans via the voltage selector up to its maximum wattage (which I don't know).


The only reason I was thinking it might be ok is even my PWM fans come with Low Noise Adapter's, so they expect that at some point you might put this on a sata/molex power right? Otherwise what is the point in LNA's when running off your motherboard where you can control the speed?


----------



## gftgy

It could also just be a holdover from before they started making PWM fans.

I have read elsewhere though that at least some Noctua PWM fans are designed to handle voltage control. It wasn't a credible source, so I'm not going to put my backing behind it, but it's an anecdote that might make you feel better about what you're trying to do.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> It could also just be a holdover from before they started making PWM fans.
> 
> I have read elsewhere though that at least some Noctua PWM fans are designed to handle voltage control. It wasn't a credible source, so I'm not going to put my backing behind it, but it's an anecdote that might make you feel better about what you're trying to do.


I might go ahead and try it, my power supply has enough protection, worst case I ruin a $10 fan hub or some fan's but that's better than the board.


----------



## gftgy

Good luck! While you're at it do you mind giving me the internal measurements for the length of the case? I can't seem to find them anywhere.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Good luck! While you're at it do you mind giving me the internal measurements for the length of the case? I can't seem to find them anywhere.


If I get into it tonight I will, you just want straight measurements from front back top bottom of the fame itself?


----------



## gftgy

The most important measurement I'm looking for is the distance from the (protruding) back of the front fans to the rear of the case. If you really want to dive into it, I could also use the:
Distance between the rear of the case and the bottom middle 140mm fan mounts
Distance between the bottom middle 140mm fan mounts and the side of the case
Distance between the bottom middle 140mm fan mounts and the internal wall (non-recessed motherboard tray)
Distance between the rear exhaust 140mm fan mounts and IO opening
Distance between the top of the case (at the rear) and the PCI mounting slots (those white brackets being held by screws below the IO opening)
Distance between the PCI mounting slots and the side of the case (the grilled area below the 140mm rear exhaust fan)
Distance between the PCI mounting slots and the non-recessed part of the wall (e.g. total width of the recessed motherboard area)

I'm hoping to cram a lot of stuff inside this thing. It'd be a huge help, thanks!


----------



## cr3mod

Deleted


----------



## cr3mod

Deleted


----------



## dzb87

R5 owners, could you check the connection between these two elements:

Is it equal all along the case's width?
Mine is a little bit wider on right side. Invisible by eyes but easily felt with finger.
I wonder if such "defects" are common.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr3mod*


I haven't looked into reverse case modding, whats the benefit here exactly?


----------



## cr3mod

Deleted


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> R5 owners, could you check the connection between these two elements:
> 
> Is it equal all along the case's width?
> Mine is a little bit wider on right side. Invisible by eyes but easily felt with finger.
> I wonder if such "defects" are common.


When I search "fractal r5 front panel" I can see that on most the front panel top right corner is lower compared to the top left one which can be seen on the top of the case. What is it, 500micron? 0.5mm.

My R4 has the same thing, it's minimal but sure with fingers you can feel it comparing both sides.
Could be how the cases are manufactured/put together that the right side is higher on the top panel.
Front panel is a mold so it's probably spot on.

---

How did handle the R3 front panel for the minified case? Or creating your own mini one? Or plain none? What about side panels?


----------



## cr3mod

Deleted


----------



## JynxLee

If anyone ends up selling an R5 window side panel please let me know. Been trying to find one for some time. Starting to think I'll have to buy a whole new case just to get it.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> If anyone ends up selling an R5 window side panel please let me know. Been trying to find one for some time. Starting to think I'll have to buy a whole new case just to get it.


You probably do unless you can find a private seller. They have the part listed in their German Shop, but not in the US Shop. They don't have a "parts store" in any other markets, although mwave sometimes carries parts for Australia (they are out of stock).

I don't suppose you've gotten around to making any of the measurements? =) I'm hoping to make a purchasing decision tomorrow, and I'm still not sure whether this case will work for me.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> You probably do unless you can find a private seller. They have the part listed in their German Shop, but not in the US Shop. They don't have a "parts store" in any other markets, although mwave sometimes carries parts for Australia (they are out of stock).
> 
> I don't suppose you've gotten around to making any of the measurements? =) I'm hoping to make a purchasing decision tomorrow, and I'm still not sure whether this case will work for me.


I didn't open the case last night, its been a busy week. What is it exactly that your looking to do?


----------



## gftgy

I've been poking around other forums and threads for the past three weeks, but I outlined the idea here a few days ago. I'm looking at having a thick 280mm rad in the front, thick 140mm rad on the bottom, and thick 140mm rad at rear exhaust, with all radiators in a push-pull setup with 25mm thick fans and shrouds or gaskets. Looking to fit a ~1000W power supply. I'm also considering the possibility of mounting a reservoir on the grilled area above the power supply to the side of the PCIe mounting slots, and whether a 257mm or 267mm wide motherboard would fit.

By my rough estimates, that gives me only a few millimeters of clearance around several problem areas, which is too close for guesstimation comfort. I can tweak the setup a bit as necessary if I have the actual measurements, or buy with certainty that everything will fit.

Wirerat was kind enough to chime in but as I pointed out it didn't answer many questions without the measurements.


----------



## JackCY

The spare part exists, just no reseller bothers to carry it or have it in stock.
But many shops can be asked if they could get it from their distribution channels and give you a quote.
Or order it from FD directly.
It's a specialty item, who wanted a windowed case simply bought the case with a window.

Just DIY it, some people like to use real glass instead of the plastic anyway and swap it. Cutting a hole in the panel is not that hard.


----------



## JynxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> I've been poking around other forums and threads for the past three weeks, but I outlined the idea here a few days ago. I'm looking at having a thick 280mm rad in the front, thick 140mm rad on the bottom, and thick 140mm rad at rear exhaust, with all radiators in a push-pull setup with 25mm thick fans and shrouds or gaskets. Looking to fit a ~1000W power supply. I'm also considering the possibility of mounting a reservoir on the grilled area above the power supply to the side of the PCIe mounting slots, and whether a 257mm or 267mm wide motherboard would fit.
> 
> By my rough estimates, that gives me only a few millimeters of clearance around several problem areas, which is too close for guesstimation comfort. I can tweak the setup a bit as necessary if I have the actual measurements, or buy with certainty that everything will fit.
> 
> Wirerat was kind enough to chime in but as I pointed out it didn't answer many questions without the measurements.


Well what Wirerat said really should take care of it. Unless your doing or using something no ones ever seen you should be just fine.


----------



## gftgy

It absolutely does not take care of it.









_It does not answer_ how much space is available for the power supply and its cabling.
_It does not answer_ whether a 140mm radiator can be rotated (fit in one direction or the other) on the bottom, or whether some 140mm radiators would be too large, as varying radiators of the same fan size and thickness do not have have the same width and length.
_It does not answer_ how much space is available for the front fans, shrouds/gaskets, and radiator. The GPU will not be the limiting factor. The middle radiator will be, and I still don't know where that is specifically in the case.
_It does not answer_ whether a 140mm radiator can be rotated at the rear exhaust, nor whether it will allow the top PCIe bracket to be utilized by a graphics card that extends above the bracket, nor how tall the motherboard IO assembly can be. Pictures do not show anywhere close to three inches of vertical clearance, and my guess is he either interpreted it for a 120mm rad or made a bad estimation.
_It does not answer_ how wide or whether a 257mm wide motherboard will fit.
_It does not answer_ how large or whether a reservoir can be mounted by the PCIe brackets.

So again, I'm appreciative of the help and input, but it didn't really answer _anything_.

I recognize some of these measurements might be difficult to take with an active case. It's not like most people just have an empty R5 lying around. But at least the measurements from the back of the front fans to the rear of the case or from the internal wall to the side of the case shouldn't be hard to make for most setups. I've been at this for three weeks and I'm getting frustrated.


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JynxLee*
> 
> Unless your doing or using something no ones ever seen you should be just fine.


I guess I'm trying to do something no one has ever seen.


----------



## contay

Hey guys. I've been reading this thread in silence way too long for now. As this mostly goes around R5 and S, I was wondering are there any Node 804 owners? Would it be possible to mod it having full atx mobo horizontally? This idea tempts me : O


----------



## JackCY

It might be wide enough to fit but the amount of cutting, drilling and reconstructing is not going to be small. Laying a tower case flat is simply easier


----------



## fresca

Hello Fractal owners!

I'm about to rebuild my husband's i7 950 with an Asus R4E and 3930k that I replaced with my sig system. They will go in a Define XL R2. I want to run six fans, most likely Noctua NF-A14s.

I am aiming for quiet and cool over performance. Although I ran the 3930k under water at an easy 4.5, I am looking to run his system at stock, and maybe raise to 4.0 if the temps are good. It's a 70/40 work/gaming rig - consistent and reliable.

My question is on fans, and PWM versus DC control. I have not ordered the fans yet, but will probably be Noctua NF-A14s, all PWM or all DC three pin. Without a stand alone fan controller, using my motherboard, my choices seem to be:

1. DC, off of PSU, constant speed. Use speed adapter resistors to control speed.
2. DC, spread across several "four pin" motherboard headers to control speed.
3. PWM, single PWM hub (Swiftech seems to to be the go to for this) to CPU_Opt, which I understand that my motherboard will run them at same speeds as CPU fan (an NH-D15s) with no independent control.

What is the preferred option? Also, if using the all PWM option, is it ok to run some of the fans using the speed adapter and others without? If it is ok to do so, with mixed voltage reduced fans, should the "master" fan to the MB from the PWM fan hub be a full speed fan?

Thanks in advance for insight and help!


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fresca*
> 
> Without a stand alone fan controller... What is the preferred option?


Assuming you don't have a graphics card in the system (because you didn't mention it), and only need to cool the power-hungry 3930k and don't have other obstructions in the case, six Noctua NF-A14 FLX running at 1050 rpm through the "Low Noise Adapter" should provide plenty of airflow in the XL R2 to handle the NH-D15 if they spin up all the way to 1500 rpm. I would say if the consistent noise level of the A14s with the LNA is good, (D15 will make the most noise), then just connect them to the power supply and leave them be. If you want to be able to run the computer with fans quieter than that (or off), then you shouldn't have much issue using a couple splitters and running them off of the motherboard.

I wouldn't recommend getting the PWM fans, because as you mentioned, you won't have control over them while they share the header with the D15. In general, you do not want to use voltage to control PWM fans, because it can result in a high pitched whine or clicking noise, and possibly damage motor commutation and control electronics of the fan, significantly reducing its life.

Noctua's PWM fans are packaged with the LNAs, though. This could be a vestigial remnant from before PWM was popular, or I've read from unreliable sources that they design their PWM fans to be operated at lower voltages. The air cooling subforum might know more.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fresca*
> 
> My question is on fans, and PWM versus DC control. I have not ordered the fans yet, but will probably be Noctua NF-A14s, all PWM or all DC three pin. Without a stand alone fan controller, using my motherboard, my choices seem to be:
> 
> 1. DC, off of PSU, constant speed. Use speed adapter resistors to control speed.
> 2. DC, spread across several "four pin" motherboard headers to control speed.
> 3. PWM, single PWM hub (Swiftech seems to to be the go to for this) to CPU_Opt, which I understand that my motherboard will run them at same speeds as CPU fan (an NH-D15s) with no independent control.
> 
> What is the preferred option? Also, if using the all PWM option, is it ok to run some of the fans using the speed adapter and others without? If it is ok to do so, with mixed voltage reduced fans, should the "master" fan to the MB from the PWM fan hub be a full speed fan?
> 
> Thanks in advance for insight and help!


PWM fans can be controlled by DC.

1) no, doesn't control based on need
2) ???, DC fans can't be controlled by PWM, unless your PWM fan headers can also control via DC
3) no

4) get fans that your mobo headers support, or just get PWM fans, plug them into mobo and control them based on temperature via mobo, can be set in UEFI, this way the fans will ramp up and down as you want when you want, most mobos have around 5 fan headers that can control fans, which is plenty and if it's not enough you can always use a splitter as most PC fans are low power and the fan headers can easily handle 2 each

Those Noctua adapters are a thing of the past when mobos didn't have fan headers that could control PWM or DC.


----------



## fresca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Assuming you don't have a graphics card in the system (because you didn't mention it), and only need to cool the power-hungry 3930k and don't have other obstructions in the case, six Noctua NF-A14 FLX running at 1050 rpm through the "Low Noise Adapter" should provide plenty of airflow in the XL R2 to handle the NH-D15 if they spin up all the way to 1500 rpm. I would say if the consistent noise level of the A14s with the LNA is good, (D15 will make the most noise), then just connect them to the power supply and leave them be. If you want to be able to run the computer with fans quieter than that (or off), then you shouldn't have much issue using a couple splitters and running them off of the motherboard.
> 
> I wouldn't recommend getting the PWM fans, because as you mentioned, you won't have control over them while they share the header with the D15. In general, you do not want to use voltage to control PWM fans, because it can result in a high pitched whine or clicking noise, and possibly damage motor commutation and control electronics of the fan, significantly reducing its life.
> 
> Noctua's PWM fans are packaged with the LNAs, though. This could be a vestigial remnant from before PWM was popular, or I've read from unreliable sources that they design their PWM fans to be operated at lower voltages. The air cooling subforum might know more.


Yes, I do have two 580 GTX cards in that system - more heat (and noise). Running FLX fans will still be sufficient, correct? I was leaning toward FLX over PWM, but I think you just sealed the deal, thanks!


----------



## fresca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> PWM fans can be controlled by DC.
> 
> 1) no, doesn't control based on need
> 2) ???, DC fans can't be controlled by PWM, unless your PWM fan headers can also control via DC
> 3) no
> 
> 4) get fans that your mobo headers support, or just get PWM fans, plug them into mobo and control them based on temperature via mobo, can be set in UEFI, this way the fans will ramp up and down as you want when you want, most mobos have around 5 fan headers that can control fans, which is plenty and if it's not enough you can always use a splitter as most PC fans are low power and the fan headers can easily handle 2 each
> 
> Those Noctua adapters are a thing of the past when mobos didn't have fan headers that could control PWM or DC.


My motherboard's chassis four pin headers are fake PWM, and actually use DC - http://www.overclock.net/t/1401311/asus-rampage-extreme-iv-pwm-problem. Very irritating. So, if I want PWM case fans, they have to run off of one of the two CPU headers, which are the only two real PWM. On top of that, CPU_OPT just follows the CPU header, and can't be controlled independently.

So, it seems an order of FLX fans running "naked" (without the LNA adapters) off the motherboard chassis connections are the way to go...


----------



## lagittaja

@gftgy
Distance between big cable routing hole on the bottom and the side of the case roughly 180mm.
I have a 160mm long PSU (Seasonic P-660) and with it fan facing up there's no way I could fit a 140mm fan on the middle bottom position. The modular connectors are in the way. If it would be fan down then it could be possible.
The distance from back wall of the case to the front is ~457mm, and from the edge of the PSU to the front is roughly 297mm but this of course doesn't take in to consideration the modular cables.


----------



## khemist

Just ordered the Define S with window, will be switching from my White R5 with window.

Looking forward to having a fully filtered 360 in the front this time, a monsta or RX i think.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Just ordered the Define S with window, will be switching from my White R5 with window.
> 
> Looking forward to having a fully filtered 360 in the front this time, a monsta or RX i think.


According to tracking my define s should come tomorrow, want me to post build pics? Monsta 360mm rad ^( show you what the monsta would look like) and 240mm rad, cpu and gpu.


----------



## khemist

Thank's but no need, mine will be here tomorrow also!.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Oh nice







I'll stick put up a few pics though


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fresca*
> 
> Yes, I do have two 580 GTX cards in that system - more heat (and noise). Running FLX fans will still be sufficient, correct? I was leaning toward FLX over PWM, but I think you just sealed the deal, thanks!


Ah, that will change a few things. I'd say stick them on the motherboard or use a fan controller (which you said you don't want to do) so you have some more control. If you're doing intensive gaming, those graphics cards are definitely going to make the most heat and noise in the system, to the point of the noise of your case fans being largely inconsequential while gaming.

You may also want to consider spending $300 to pick up a Twin Frozr GTX 970 and update your 5yr-old GPUs. I know the purpose of this experiment is to use your old and existing tech, but those GPUs are going to be taxed if you're going to play modern games at high resolution on high settings. The GTX 970 will produce a third as much heat for better performance, resulting in less noise, lower case temps, and a lower power draw from your PSU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> @gftgy
> Distance between big cable routing hole on the bottom and the side of the case roughly 180mm.
> I have a 160mm long PSU (Seasonic P-660) and with it fan facing up there's no way I could fit a 140mm fan on the middle bottom position. The modular connectors are in the way. If it would be fan down then it could be possible.
> The distance from back wall of the case to the front is ~457mm, and from the edge of the PSU to the front is roughly 297mm but this of course doesn't take in to consideration the modular cables.


Thank you, Lagittaja! Important question, though: Is the 457mm front to back including the front fan protrusion, or do I need to subtract another 25mm for that measurement?

If it already takes the protrusion into account, it looks like I'll be clear, but if it doesn't I'll have to rotate the bottom radiator, which means I would need 16.75mm exactly from the middle of the 140mm fan hole and the internal wall, which I don't think is available, unless maybe the rubber grommet could also be used to provide that space, depending on the height of the grommet opening and how high it is from the bottom.

I guess you can see now why I was being particular about the measurements earlier. XD


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Thank you, Lagittaja! Important question, though: Is the 457mm front to back including the front fan protrusion, or do I need to subtract another 25mm for that measurement?
> 
> If it already takes the protrusion into account, it looks like I'll be clear, but if it doesn't I'll have to rotate the bottom radiator, which means I would need 16.75mm exactly from the middle of the 140mm fan hole and the internal wall, which I don't think is available, unless maybe the rubber grommet could also be used to provide that space, depending on the height of the grommet opening and how high it is from the bottom.
> 
> I guess you can see now why I was being particular about the measurements earlier. XD


The measurement is from there to the back wall.








The fans don't protrude unless you mount the fans on the case side of those fan mounting positions. For which I can't see a reason to do so, especially considering you're tight on space.

E: Regarding that cable routing hole. Without the grommet, the hole itself is 38mm tall and the hole is 33mm from the floor of the case (not including the fan mount bumps). It's width on the other hand is around 135mm (+-5), it's kinda hard to get a caliper in there with the lower HDD cage and PSU installed. So no guaranties on that width measurement


----------



## gftgy

That was the "protrusion" I was speaking of.







The front case wall is another 25mm or so forward, with the front fan housing (what you marked with the line and measured from) protruding from that wall into the case. We probably have a bit of a translation error occurring, so to clarify: I'm saying that the place where the front of a 5.25" optical drive touches the case is the inside front wall. Below the optical drive, the fans extend 25mm from that point further into the case, so that is the protrusion.

Assuming I still haven't messed something up in translation, it sounds like it will fit, so I will place the order for the case and hope the rest of it all fits together.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## lagittaja

Yah, as soon as I posted that I realised what you actually meant. Didn't bother editing it out.
~457mm from the protrusion or ~482-483mm from the inside front wall to the back wall.


----------



## gftgy

Excellent. Placing the order. It's gonna be tight. Let's hope it works!


----------



## fresca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gftgy*
> 
> Ah, that will change a few things. I'd say stick them on the motherboard or use a fan controller (which you said you don't want to do) so you have some more control. If you're doing intensive gaming, those graphics cards are definitely going to make the most heat and noise in the system, to the point of the noise of your case fans being largely inconsequential while gaming.
> 
> You may also want to consider spending $300 to pick up a Twin Frozr GTX 970 and update your 5yr-old GPUs. I know the purpose of this experiment is to use your old and existing tech, but those GPUs are going to be taxed if you're going to play modern games at high resolution on high settings. The GTX 970 will produce a third as much heat for better performance, resulting in less noise, lower case temps, and a lower power draw from your PSU.


The 580's are a little long in the tooth, aren't they







They are in my husbands rig, who rarely plays anything more demanding than World of Tanks/World of Warships, Diablo 3, and the occasional RPG at 1080p. He'll get my hand-me-down 780s when I do a update to Nvidia's Pascal cards next year. Or sooner if I run into a game I just have to play at max eye candy that makes my 780s cry. Throwing a 970 in his rig is very, very tempting though


----------



## Joe-Gamer

How good a job do the moduvents do on the design S? As I'm not sureif I want to keep them on or put a 240mm rad there to go with my 360mm front rad. I would like it as quiet as possible without compensating on cooling (one 360mm, 8cm thick rad should suffice for a 2500k and 980Ti right?)


----------



## khemist

Just got my Define S, now to have a play about with the rads and see what i'm using!.


----------



## khemist

Think i'm going to go with the RX360 in the front and EX240 in the top, can't quite manage 2x360's.

I could use the RX240 in the top but i think with the crossflow rad will make the tubing routing look better.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Finished my build in the design s! stuck to one 360 in the front as temps are fine and I keep the top closed as well. Pics will be in a few minutes


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Thats a 980Ti and a i5 2500k


----------



## mtrapuzz

Switched to a Define S from an R5 to do a little more with water. When Fractal makes some filtered and vented moduvents I will probably add another rad up top for a loop for graphics cards and move the res somewhere else, but for now that is how I wanted everything. I can still remover ram modules and get at everything without messing with the water stuff.


----------



## zorvalth

Is there someone with a hot Graphic card (r9 290, 980ti, 780ti) and Define S who can make a stress test with and without front panel? I want to know the diference.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Everyone that is interested, go to this link and send Fractal a product recommendation to make filtered and vented moduvent covers for the R5 and S. If they get enough interest, they will make them. Thanks.

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


----------



## JackCY

Get Demciflex










If they are gonna create just another 700 micron filters, they are almost as good as removed.
I'm gonna get that stainless steel mesh 100 micron 61% open area and fix my R4 filters.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Tried it. Too ugly for my taste. I essentially want a vented moduvent.


----------



## lurker2501

Finally finished moving from Arc Midi to Define S.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/eyQZppD3j

Mine for the moment.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eyQZppD3j
> 
> Mine for the moment.


I liked the white a lot better.


----------



## khemist

So did i but i do like having the 360 rad in the front fully filtered.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/eyB2JjTKj

A bit more light in the pic, i'll get a better one and i'm going to change the psu cables also, and GPU block.


----------



## dzb87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Everyone that is interested, go to this link and send Fractal a product recommendation to make filtered and vented moduvent covers for the R5 and S. If they get enough interest, they will make them. Thanks.
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


I did this a week ago. Fractal response is:
"we will consider but can't give promise"
Let's hope they will do something for R5 and not only for future cases


----------



## Lodbroke

Hopes I can join this gallant club of Fractal Design users
My FD Core 1300. It's my first desktop? in ages being astray with Laptops, tablets and smartphones for years.
The comp is a "Specialized game computer for older games" but for a while it also served as a HTPC (running cool and silent, when not stressed with games). Since the picture was taken, the 3.5" disk and the vertical disk mount is removed. As the HTPC (in a FD Node 605 case, see if I can get some pics of it next) is up and running again.


Only thing I have found negative with the Core 1300 is:
1. The best 2.5" bay screws are hidden by the PSU, you have to remove the PSU to change 2.5" disk.
2. All those vents makes the case almost open, open for dust. FD should have provided dust covers for them.

Those two complaints are balanced by 100's of praises.
Beloved features are the sturdiness of the case, the roomy interior and most loved how everything fits holes are were they are supposed to be and all threads easily takes screws.

Might be just me, used with low-cost/noname cases before giving up with PCs, Whish one had to skip one or two screws because the thread was damaged or the hole was offset in slanted cases.


----------



## JackCY

2) they have other case lines for that, Core is a core series, core as in bare minimum, core stuff only, no filters no silencing, as far as I know.


----------



## Lodbroke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 2) they have other case lines for that, Core is a core series, core as in bare minimum, core stuff only, no filters no silencing, as far as I know.


You are probably right, I bought the case partly because it was quite cheap. Have added 3:rd party dust filters/covers to my Core 1300.


----------



## lurker2501

FYI: an XSPC 420mm rad doesn't fit in a Define s. At least not in the holes made for the assembly. I wonder what radiators did Fractal use to test the fitment.


----------



## Weber

The XSPC 420 seems to catch on the motherboard i/o cutout sheet metal. I did not try to modify. I switched to a smaller rad.


----------



## DI360

I´m interested in Define S, any space problemas with a front 240mm 60mm rad + 25mm fans? I don´t know if my combo ddc+reservoir will fit there.

Do you control fans with motherboard or using a PCB PWM Splitter?


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/eyZIYgJCj

Yes it will fit fine, i'm using a RX360 (56mm thick) in the front with the ddc and res mounted to it, plenty of room left.. card is a 980 Ti.

I'm running my fans with a pwm hub.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

I can fit my 80mm thick rad with 1 set of fans inside of the case, my d5 pump, my res is mounted on the precut holes, with a 980ti reference. So you should be fine.


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Is there someone with a hot Graphic card (r9 290, 980ti, 780ti) and Define S who can make a stress test with and without front panel? I want to know the diference.


Anybody?


----------



## cadger

What's everyone's opinion on the optimal airflow for an air cooled windowless R5?


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> What's everyone's opinion on the optimal airflow for an air cooled windowless R5?


Personally I would either mount dual 140mm in the front or triple 120mm and then a 140 on the bottom, all intake. I would leave the top closed and use a 120/140 on the rear for exhaust and have massive positive air pressure.

Should be able to leave the intake fans on low and have no cooling issues plus silent operation.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Anybody?


I have a Define S with R9 290. I can do it, but I think the front panel will make little to no impact on the temperatures. The setup is triple 140mm in the front and one at the rear.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> The XSPC 420 seems to catch on the motherboard i/o cutout sheet metal. I did not try to modify. I switched to a smaller rad.


False advertising from Fractal. If you claim that a case can house a 420 rad it should be universal, not for certain models only.


----------



## JackCY

Fractal is not responsible that some company makes a weird radiator that has strange dimensions. Are they truly 420x140mm for the rad in question at all? Or is it something like 440x150mm? 420mm is 420mm not 440mm some oversized rad.

What is I/O cut out sheet metal? You mean the traditionally silver thing that you get with your mobo and can put into a case where the external I/O on mobo is? Never use it, blocks exhaust around the I/O ports.


----------



## Weber

If you have a define S case, look at it, the I/O cutout area is a bent metal box that accepts the mobo thing you are asking about.


----------



## literarybear

Hi all, novice builder here, hoping for help with a few questions on building with the R5!









1. I noticed that most people using AIOs for cooling place the radiator in the top or in the front. As the computer will be on the floor, I was thinking it would be best in terms of acoustics for me to place the 240mm radiator (planning to get the nepton 240m) as an intake at the bottom, taking away the included front 140mm fan, and keeping the rear 140mm fan as exhaust. With moderate overclocking, would this be sufficient airflow and would there be any cabling issues?

2. The R5 manual states that if I place a radiator at the bottom, the max PSU length accepted is 165mm. Is there any leeway for this; would a 170mm PSU fit? Good 165mm PSUs seem to top out at 860W, but the 980 Ti I'm thinking of getting apparently draws close to 400W each under load, and I wanted to leave overhead to potentially get a second for SLI in the future. If not, just wanted to confirm that a 160mm PSU will fit with no wiring issues?

3. I was looking at possibly getting the ASUS 980 Ti, which is apparently 305mm long. The R5 manual says it accepts up to 310mm with the top HDD cage installed, would there be any airflow or wiring issues?

Skylake just launched (on my birthday, no less), and I'm looking to get the parts in the next 24 hours or so, so responses would be really really appreciated. Just to give a bit of context, the country I live in has pretty much non-existent return policies so I can't just return stuff if they don't fit, which is why I'm being extra careful. Thank you!


----------



## Kuudere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Fractal is not responsible that some company makes a weird radiator that has strange dimensions. Are they truly 420x140mm for the rad in question at all? Or is it something like 440x150mm? 420mm is 420mm not 440mm some oversized rad.
> 
> What is I/O cut out sheet metal? You mean the traditionally silver thing that you get with your mobo and can put into a case where the external I/O on mobo is? Never use it, blocks exhaust around the I/O ports.


That area generally doesn't...

I'm not even sure I want to dive into that one so here's a lit up Define S and the backside of the motherboard:


----------



## happyrichie

1. don't do it, psu wires are tricky and its gona be a real real tight fit.

2. don't do it! install the rad on top, good air flow going through the front and the bottom (if you can fit a fan in their), removing heat out the back and top, keep a + pressure flow (more force pulling air in than pushing out to help remove heat and reduce dust build up)

3. no. but if you are running a 980ti try removing the hd cage cause the better the air flow the better the oc.

lots of room for a 980ti with rad on top keeping the heat away from intakes aiding in keeping the case cool. look at pressure and speed of fans to set them up right, I really like the fractal fans but ive got a typhoon as the extractor to increase out take pressure ready for a better gpu and a 140mm fractal fan to go on the side. so im going with 2 120mm & 1 140mm fractal intakes, 1 typhoon extractor. in your case I guess it will be like 3x140mm intakes with 3x140mm out which is pretty sweet especially when you consider the rad blocking air being removed which increases the pressure in the case which is a good thing.

I think If I was you I would go with 3x120mm on the front (I think you can do that) get the psu you want and forget about the bottom fan (use the side if you need 2) and have 3x140mm extracting with the rad on top.

my system runs at minimum fan speed at all times (10db) with my cpu at 4.3ghz and its pretty sweet, my hd's are the loudest thing in my rig by a long way even when im gaming.


----------



## Rista

Hi guys, i have a Define R5 case, and this question is maybe a little off topic, but i need your advice. For CPU cooling, what is better to buy, Noctua NH-D15 or Cooler Master Nepton 280L? I plan to do overclock, but not to much, my cpu is on 3,5 ghz on default and i will go to 4-4.2 ghz max. Thanks in advance.


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rista*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a Define R5 case, and this question is maybe a little off topic, but i need your advice. For CPU cooling, what is better to buy, Noctua NH-D15 or Cooler Master Nepton 280L? I plan to do overclock, but not to much, my cpu is on 3,5 ghz on default and i will go to 4-4.2 ghz max. Thanks in advance.


They will perform very much the same so it comes down to a few things. Do you have a window? Do you have tall RAM heat skinks? Do you have PCI-E lane issues with the D15? Do you care about looking at a giant CPU heat sink through that window? Do you value noise level to performance a lot? Do you care that you may have to open up the top moduvents? I've used both and prefer the D15. But I'm a sound level freak and don't have a windowed case, although the D15 isn't a bad piece of hardware to look at.


----------



## Rista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> They will perform very much the same so it comes down to a few things. Do you have a window? Do you have tall RAM heat skinks? Do you have PCI-E lane issues with the D15? Do you care about looking at a giant CPU heat sink through that window? Do you value noise level to performance a lot? Do you care that you may have to open up the top moduvents? I've used both and prefer the D15. But I'm a sound level freak and don't have a windowed case, although the D15 isn't a bad piece of hardware to look at.


No, i don't have a window, i have ram with standard heat sinks, i don't have pci-e issues with the D15, i don't care too much about the looks, i value more performance then noise level, and i don't plan opening top muduvents since i'm planing if i buy Nepton 280L to put it in front on push-pull configuration. Do you guys think that's a good idea or what? Btw thanks cadger for you opinion and answer.


----------



## JackCY

I would stick to a decent air cooler, not even D15 as that is the overpriced top but a notch lower where the much better performance/buck coolers are, just above the 212 EVO range price wise and neither as heavy as the coolers in D15 price range yet with almost similar performance.
Water coolers, pump noise, leak concern, radiator placement vs airflow, I think it's only worth it if you want to go all in and need the extra cooling power, make a custom loop, skip the prebuilt CLC kits.


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rista*
> 
> No, i don't have a window, i have ram with standard heat sinks, i don't have pci-e issues with the D15, i don't care too much about the looks, i value more performance then noise level, and i don't plan opening top muduvents since i'm planing if i buy Nepton 280L to put it in front on push-pull configuration. Do you guys think that's a good idea or what? Btw thanks cadger for you opinion and answer.


No problem, I'm happy to help. Putting the 280L in the front will exhaust the hot air through the radiator into the rest of the case. I'm not a fan of that. With the D15 you get two intakes that just bring cold air in for your GPU, etc. At this point since its not for for the aesthetics, I would go with the D15. It has the same cooling performance, better noise levels, it's cheaper by a good amount, won't have any AIO issues (rare but they do happen), and most importantly you get Noctua's fantastic support. Not only do they send out new mounting kits when mobos change they have a 6 year warranty on their products. I sent them an email last Sunday asking for mounting clips for my D15 and they arrived at my house Friday. Austira to the Northeast of the US in 5 business days, no questions asked.


----------



## Rista

Thanks for the answer and your opinion JackCY.


----------



## error-id10t

Does the R5 have any problems with the XSPC D5 Photon 270 Reservoir/Pump Combo if anyone has it, combined with RX360 at the top (or side)? The 270 is bigger than what I need but the 170 costs the same which is odd.


----------



## DI360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> I can fit my 80mm thick rad with 1 set of fans inside of the case, my d5 pump, my res is mounted on the precut holes, with a 980ti reference. So you should be fine.


Any diference mounting fans outside? More noise? Thanks


----------



## RnRollie

noisewise it doesnt make that much of difference.... having pets or small kids however....


----------



## axipher

Project Maple Leaf is back to under a proper water loop, now to upgrade the GPU and get a water block for it.


----------



## mstrmind5

Could any fractal r5 owners tell me what type of space is there between the front fans, the front dust filter and the distance betweeen hdd cages and the front fans as well.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Project Maple Leaf is back to under a proper water loop, now to upgrade the GPU and get a water block for it.


Dude that is nice


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Project Maple Leaf is back to under a proper water loop, now to upgrade the GPU and get a water block for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude that is nice
Click to expand...

Thanks man, much better performance and looks than a crummy H100.

Gentle Typhoon AP-15's behind the front shroud with an EK 240 mm RAD on the front. Just need to find a water block for my GPU, or a good deal on a new GPU with a water block.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks man, much better performance and looks than a crummy H100.
> 
> Gentle Typhoon AP-15's behind the front shroud with an EK 240 mm RAD on the front. Just need to find a water block for my GPU, or a good deal on a new GPU with a water block.


Where did you get the overclockers.net stickers ?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Thanks man, much better performance and looks than a crummy H100.
> 
> Gentle Typhoon AP-15's behind the front shroud with an EK 240 mm RAD on the front. Just need to find a water block for my GPU, or a good deal on a new GPU with a water block.
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the overclockers.net stickers ?
Click to expand...

I think from a folding competition a couple years back or one of the OCN sponsored LANs


----------



## ihatelolcats

im having a bit of trouble with temps in this case. i have a single rad for the cpu at the back, exhausting. but it's running like 75C air through it from the gpu. i tried reversing the flow through the case but didn't have much luck with that either...


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> im having a bit of trouble with temps in this case. i have a single rad for the cpu at the back, exhausting. but it's running like 75C air through it from the gpu. i tried reversing the flow through the case but didn't have much luck with that either...


What case and what GPU. If the GPU is on air you will always have high temps in the case the 70c to 80C from the GPU needs to go somewhere.


----------



## JackCY

Specs, config, numbers, expectations?
120-140mm CLC for CPU is, lets say it this way: an air cooler can do better than that.


----------



## Dan-H

Hi. Welcome me









Last weekend I built my sig rig with the Refine R5. I love the case so far. I'll post a link to the build writeup because I had some challenges with the CPU cooler and memory but the flexibility of the case was fantastic.

I have alot of tuning still to do but I thought I would stop in and say hi.

Dan


----------



## literarybear

Thanks for the reply, happyrichie! Really wanted a silence-focused build, so I didn't want to mess with the top, and ended up mounting the radiator to the front


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/hl3iyCZxj

Still to sort cables, change tubing to Blue and install Bitpower fittings.


----------



## fisher6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/hl3iyCZxj
> 
> Still to sort cables, change tubing to Blue and install Bitpower fittings.


I have exact set up as you! Even for the drain port. Great work:thumb:


----------



## Gruff

For any R5 or Define S owners, how do you feel about the GP-14 fans?

I recently picked up a Define S along with two additional GP-14 fans for the intake slots. For the intakes I feel that these fans do a decent job in terms of airflow and noise however the fan being used for exhaust wasn't really pushing anything out of the case for whatever reason, even at full rpm. When I placed my hand behind the exhaust I could barely feel any air coming out and the internal temps rising. I swapped it out for a Corsair 140mm fan I had lying around and my case temp dropped significantly and i could feel a lot of air exiting the case.


----------



## JackCY

Was the fan spinning? lol
Wasn't it put the wrong direction? XD

I use cheap Gelid fans along with the stock FDs. One cheap Gelid as exhaust the other 3 fans as intakes and I have no problem to feel air blowing out from the exhaust.
Maybe you have negative pressure in your case and the GP-14 is weaker than the other fan you tried that was finally able to fight your negative pressure.

Personally I don't see the point of spending enormous $ on fans, at equal size and rpm they are all almost equal in terms of how much air they push through.

I suppose you are using the grills which restrict airflow? Maybe the GP-14 struggles more to overcome the exhaust restriction from the grill.
I don't have any grills on my case.


----------



## psyshack

I'm still impressed daily with my Define S. Makes my old H440 look like a third world designed case. The H440 was like the Dark Age. And the Define S is like the Enlightenment. The only thing wrong is made in China. I would pay $50 more if it had been made in it's country of design. Still need to change out the power led and get real glass in the window. The machine is not setup to be quite. When the cpu and gpu are at full chat it gets loud and stays very cool with it's 5930K @ 4.7ghz and the 980 Classy @ 1627/8000. Cutting the top panels to fit my rad did help with noise at low load and daily use scenarios. I also opened up the bottom of the front panel for more air flow.

Best mid-tower water cooling case out there!


----------



## DI360

My Define S it's almost ready, i'm waiting for a 360mm rad and 2 90° fittings.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyshack*
> 
> I'm still impressed daily with my Define S. Makes my old H440 look like a third world designed case. The H440 was like the Dark Age. And the Define S is like the Enlightenment. The only thing wrong is made in China. I would pay $50 more if it had been made in it's country of design. Still need to change out the power led and get real glass in the window. The machine is not setup to be quite. When the cpu and gpu are at full chat it gets loud and stays very cool with it's 5930K @ 4.7ghz and the 980 Classy @ 1627/8000. Cutting the top panels to fit my rad did help with noise at low load and daily use scenarios. I also opened up the bottom of the front panel for more air flow.
> 
> Best mid-tower water cooling case out there!


Nice thanks for sharing this one .


----------



## ihatelolcats

i mounted a fan on the back of my r5 on the hex grill by the gpu. preliminary tests showed about 10c drop on gpu (air) and 20 on cpu (water aio) in gaming. i guess the stock front fans just don't have enough pressure to ventilate the case


----------



## Gruff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> i mounted a fan on the back of my r5 on the hex grill by the gpu. preliminary tests showed about 10c drop on gpu (air) and 20 on cpu (water aio) in gaming. i guess the stock front fans just don't have enough pressure to ventilate the case


The R5 comes with the GP-14 fans as well and I too found that the stock GP-14 was terrible for exhaust on my Define S. The fan is pretty good as an intake fan, but it could not push air through the fairly open back grill.

I did a test with a fan out on my desk to see what kind of airflow it got out in the open and found that the fan had some strange airflow. Instead of shooting air out the back, it seems to shoot air out at sharp angles off the edges (so say for the top edge it comes out in a directly upward direction, for the bottom edge it comes out to the bottom, and so on.).


----------



## reset1101

Hey guys, please let me join the club as I have changed the case. Specs are in my signature. Hope you like the pics!











http://imgur.com/CBKMOB5




http://imgur.com/wgDVbNJ




http://imgur.com/zwmPINZ




http://imgur.com/yBbcxul




http://imgur.com/YTP7LCZ


----------



## DontWorryScro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> i mounted a fan on the back of my r5 on the hex grill by the gpu. preliminary tests showed about 10c drop on gpu (air) and 20 on cpu (water aio) in gaming. i guess the stock front fans just don't have enough pressure to ventilate the case


Where exactly? On the exterior? What size fan? Pictures?

Thanks


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DontWorryScro*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> i mounted a fan on the back of my r5 on the hex grill by the gpu. preliminary tests showed about 10c drop on gpu (air) and 20 on cpu (water aio) in gaming. i guess the stock front fans just don't have enough pressure to ventilate the case
> 
> 
> 
> Where exactly? On the exterior? What size fan? Pictures?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

eventually the cpu temp did climb back to around the same level (took a while) but gpu is definitely lower. it was 85c now its 75c max playing bf4


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Everyone that is interested, go to this link and send Fractal a product recommendation to make filtered and vented moduvent covers for the R5 and S. If they get enough interest, they will make them. Thanks.
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


I eceived this response from Fractal:
---
Hi Matthew

Many thanks for the suggestion! We are looking into it as many has requested this feature.

Best regards
Fractal Design
---

So keep sending those suggestions.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Hey Peps! What`s the best fans you can buy, Max price would be 35USD each i believe









I need it for a XTX360, with this config


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Cheers!


----------



## deciMal oNion

Hi All,

I just finished my first watercooled build in a Fractal Define S with a full loop including 2x 360 radiators. I thought some of you might be interested.







More photos here;
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir

Thanks,

- Nathan


----------



## incog

yeah, that is clean !

more pics with more lighting so we can admire things more clearly


----------



## DontWorryScro

I have a Define R5 and last night I did some rearranging inside the case to get better airflow going after I installed some Phanteks F140SP case fans. (I recommend by the way







) I removed the optical drive and moved the 5-drive cage up to the top spot. I also removed the 3-drive cage from the bottom all together. My question is this: Is there really only one screw that secures the 5-drive cage to the top position? I know there is a design feature with the notched "push in and slide forward" mechanic that the drive cage hangs from but besides that is there any other means of securing the cage to the case besides the one screw up front?
I notice slight play up top because it's just hanging unsecured from the notch deal.

Alternatively, has anyone figured out a way to use the 3-drive cage in the top position? I know it doesn't have the notches on the top of the cage that would allow it to be slotted in up top but am wondering if anyone has used some ingenuity to make it work? I only have 3 HDDs and that would work out much better for me than using the larger 5-drive cage with 2 empty slots at the bottom that probably cause a little turbulence with the top intake fan.

Thanks.


----------



## deciMal oNion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> yeah, that is clean !
> 
> more pics with more lighting so we can admire things more clearly


Yeah ok, I'll post some up soon.


----------



## elbeasto

Just bought a Define S (window) for a CPU loop build.

It's a great design for water cooling but I've run into a bit of trouble with the front I/O panel. The mic and headphone jacks are the wrong way around, I have to plug my mic into the headphone jack and vice versa for them to work. Also one of the USB ports doesn't work.

The LED works but it's way too bright IMO. It's a clean understated looking case yet the LED can be seen from space.

Disappointed with the front I/O but at the same time the design for water cooling is just the best I've ever seen out of the box, especially for res/pump mounting and it's size (mid tower).


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Just bought a Define S (window) for a CPU loop build.
> 
> It's a great design for water cooling but I've run into a bit of trouble with the front I/O panel. The mic and headphone jacks are the wrong way around, I have to plug my mic into the headphone jack and vice versa for them to work. Also one of the USB ports doesn't work.
> 
> The LED works but it's way too bright IMO. It's a clean understated looking case yet the LED can be seen from space.
> 
> Disappointed with the front I/O but at the same time the design for water cooling is just the best I've ever seen out of the box, especially for res/pump mounting and it's size (mid tower).


I don't use the LED so you can always unplug it. You can probably get the wiring diagram for the mic and headphones and switch the pins around on the connector.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> I don't use the LED so you can always unplug it. You can probably get the wiring diagram for the mic and headphones and switch the pins around on the connector.


Yeah was thinking of just unplugging the pins from the mobo for the LED.
Or there might be a way of replacing the LED with something softer, maybe a white LED, I dunno.









I would try to rewire the audio jacks but there's still the USB port not working so I'm getting a replacement part from Fractal which is nice.


----------



## DI360

I got a problem, i'm stuck with a 360mm 30mm radiator on top, more width and the radiator hit the Ram. I should go for a low-profile one.


----------



## psyshack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Just bought a Define S (window) for a CPU loop build.
> 
> It's a great design for water cooling but I've run into a bit of trouble with the front I/O panel. The mic and headphone jacks are the wrong way around, I have to plug my mic into the headphone jack and vice versa for them to work. Also one of the USB ports doesn't work.
> 
> The LED works but it's way too bright IMO. It's a clean understated looking case yet the LED can be seen from space.
> 
> Disappointed with the front I/O but at the same time the design for water cooling is just the best I've ever seen out of the box, especially for res/pump mounting and it's size (mid tower).


My mic and head phone jacks are reversed also. Both usb are fine. I need to get with Fractal and get a replacement. But I'm not going to use it. I'm going to relocated the power and reset buttons get rid of the rest including the usb jacks. I will leave the hole in the top of the front panel for air intake.

Thats China production for you....


----------



## pcrevolution

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyshack*
> 
> My mic and head phone jacks are reversed also. Both usb are fine. I need to get with Fractal and get a replacement. But I'm not going to use it. I'm going to relocated the power and reset buttons get rid of the rest including the usb jacks. I will leave the hole in the top of the front panel for air intake.
> 
> Thats China production for you....


YES! MY DEFINE S TOO.


----------



## Weber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DI360*
> 
> I got a problem, i'm stuck with a 360mm 30mm radiator on top, more width and the radiator hit the Ram. I should go for a low-profile one.


Happened to me, I pulled off the ram heat sinks and wrote a email to fractal about all the things that don't fit. Mine, LP may fit, even that looks close.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyshack*
> 
> My mic and head phone jacks are reversed also. Both usb are fine. I need to get with Fractal and get a replacement. But I'm not going to use it. I'm going to relocated the power and reset buttons get rid of the rest including the usb jacks. I will leave the hole in the top of the front panel for air intake.
> 
> Thats China production for you....


It seems they got a bad bunch of FP I/O's.
I wouldn't mind so much but it will probably mean having to remove the 420 rad in the roof to install the replacement which is a bit of an operation with a loop already installed.

Other than that I quite like this case, especially the design. I got a 420 rad in the roof of a mid tower with enough room inside for a 140 XRES/Pump combo and all my hard drives.
That and it costs so much less than Corsair cases.
There's also the sound proofing on the back side panel and roof panels which is very nice.

Some things like the front IO panel were disappointing though, like the holes weren't tapped very well for the thumb screws, I actually had to use a screw driver on them.
The side panels don't slide out unless I push them in a little.
And while a 420 rad does fit in the roof it also means that you can't use the 140mm fan on the back.

But as I said, for the price I can't complain too much.


----------



## Mack42

Would getting a Define S for pure air build be wrong? It feels like putting 3 120mm fans in the front gives ideal air flow throughout the case. But perhaps too noisy? Define R5 only allows for 2 such fans, at the lower half of the case.


----------



## Weber

I can't hear them. I opened the top back with 4 fans in, one out.


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> I can't hear them. I opened the top back with 4 fans in, one out.


no offense but you use intel stock hsf... doubt you can hear much over that


----------



## Rista

Hi guys, i have a question? Did any of you had a faulty usb 3.0 jack/connector on a front panel of a Define R5? I bought this excellent case about a month ago, and from the start, my right usb 3.0 port doesn't work but left one does. Everything is properly connected to the MB and jack isn't damaged or wobbly. I need you advices, what should i do?


----------



## psyshack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rista*
> 
> Hi guys, i have a question? Did any of you had a faulty usb 3.0 jack/connector on a front panel of a Define R5? I bought this excellent case about a month ago, and from the start, my right usb 3.0 port doesn't work but left one does. Everything is properly connected to the MB and jack isn't damaged or wobbly. I need you advices, what should i do?


Do like everybody else has had to do. Go to fractals site. Register, tell them of your issue and hope they send you a new I/o front panel and cables. My audio jacks are backwards. I just did the jump through hoops for China Junk replacement this morning with fractal and near useless China Junk from Corsair. Maybe one day these idiot company's will pull there heads out and build there products in a respectable country. Or at least in there home country the cheap ass's!

Good Luck!


----------



## Mnemosyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> I can't hear them. I opened the top back with 4 fans in, one out.


You're running with the stock CPU cooler though (for some reason).


----------



## psyshack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemosyne*
> 
> You're running with the stock CPU cooler though (for some reason).


What does the oem cooler have to do with noise? They are all but whisper quite? I've never heard a loud one. I'm confused.


----------



## Mnemosyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyshack*
> 
> What does the oem cooler have to do with noise? They are all but whisper quite? I've never heard a loud one. I'm confused.


The stock Intel CPU cooler is merely adequate in terms of actual cooling performance versus aftermarket coolers. Many aftermarket CPU coolers will also adjust your overall system's noise level; this is often corrected by choosing a reputable brand and model; i.e, something that isn't cheap and bought at Walmart. You will find many people here at OCN will circle jerk over the Hyper 212 cooler but for $20-$30, it really does provide a nice boost in CPU cooling performance versus the stock cooler than Intel provides you with. It is also _quiet_.


----------



## Weber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> no offense but you use intel stock hsf... doubt you can hear much over that


It's got a 53 watt g3258 dual core in it and that cooler is fine for that. I was showing a box that is quite, no water pump.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemosyne*
> 
> The stock Intel CPU cooler is merely adequate in terms of actual cooling performance versus aftermarket coolers. Many aftermarket CPU coolers will also adjust your overall system's noise level; this is often corrected by choosing a reputable brand and model; i.e, something that isn't cheap and bought at Walmart. You will find many people here at OCN will circle jerk over the Hyper 212 cooler but for $20-$30, it really does provide a nice boost in CPU cooling performance versus the stock cooler than Intel provides you with. It is also _quiet_.


hyper212 is kinda meh here in 2015. It does offer the same/slightly better temps for a lot less fanspeed (noise) though.


----------



## JackCY

Stock cooler is like an aeroplane







And the cooling performance doesn't allow you to OC anything but the G3258. It's just so bad at cooling, the cooling capacity of it is not designed for OC nor quiet cooling.

I like the new Cryorig H7. Personally I have an HR-02 Macho Rev.A, one of the quietest air coolers, doesn't block RAM, neither PCIE, at least to me it seems like I could fit a card into first PCIE slot. And it's not crazy heavy nor crazy expensive like NH-D14/5 and similar while the performance trails those behemoths pretty close.

212 Evo isn't bad, but it's dated and there are other even better options now.


----------



## Weber

settle down guys. This is a 5775C build waiting for the cpu to be sold in the states. I couldn't wait, so I powered up this. When they sell me a cpu I'll switch to water. The question was about 3 front fans and noise, I showed this as an example of a build that is quite. And regarding oc the 3258, I've benched it last year with a H100. atm, this is folding in the corner.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psyshack*
> 
> My mic and head phone jacks are reversed also. Both usb are fine.


My mic and headphone jacks work fine and all the USBs work. Just got it a few weeks ago.


----------



## error-id10t

I'm moving from 800D to R5 but have a problem. To make this work I need to get rid of my current res/pump combo (refer sig) and replace it with something that fits this case.

The RX360 goes to the top which removes the ODD bay which is just fine and dandy by me. But I cannot leave the HDD bays there either as whatever res/pump solution I get, the GPU clearance is already 310 to the HDD cases?

So my question to WC here, what do you use and how do you make it not rattle? There's the XSPC D5 Photon 170 but this is very hard to find while the 270 is way too large. Then there's EK XRES 140 D5 PWM but I haven't figured how this is coupled to the case in a nice quiet way.


----------



## Dreamliner

Has anyone compared the Noctua 140mm fans to the Fractal 140mm fans the come in the R4? I have 4x Fractal 140mm fans in my R4 spinning around ~700rpm and would like it to be a bit quieter. But I dunno if the Noctuas will have really be quieter at the *same* CFM. My Fractal fans do tick a bit, but I can't hear that over the fan noise.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Has anyone compared the Noctua 140mm fans to the Fractal 140mm fans the come in the R4? I have 4x Fractal 140mm fans in my R4 spinning around ~700rpm and would like it to be a bit quieter. But I dunno if the Noctuas will have really be quieter at the *same* CFM. My Fractal fans do tick a bit, but I can't hear that over the fan noise.


I would keep the fractal fans. Not much difference in fans below 1,000rpm or maybe consider 500 rpm gentle typhoons. They are 120mm but are about as quiet as a fan can be and still move air.


----------



## JackCY

FD, if they click, they suck. Maybe they changed the fan internal design, but the older FD all click and consume more power than a non clicking cheapo fan. If anyone would even buy them I would sell them in an instant. Not that they are a deal breaker, but I can get other cheaper and better fans.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I would keep the fractal fans. Not much difference in fans below 1,000rpm or maybe consider 500 rpm gentle typhoons. They are 120mm but are about as quiet as a fan can be and still move air.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> FD, if they click, they suck. Maybe they changed the fan internal design, but the older FD all click and consume more power than a non clicking cheapo fan. If anyone would even buy them I would sell them in an instant. Not that they are a deal breaker, but I can get other cheaper and better fans.


They do click when my ear is right up on them. I don't know what other fans to get. I have 4 of the Fractal 140mm fans, I don't want to spend $20 each for Noctuas unless they are hands down the quietest. I just have a hard time believing there will be much of a difference at 700rpm.

TBH; the best fans I've personally used are the Antec Tricool 120mm. When spinning at ~600rpm or so, they are almost dead silent. Ever since my Refine R2, I've zip tied 2 of those fans to the inside side of the HDD cage to pull the air over the hard drives and keep the air moving to the back in the case...

I have as Intake: FRONT UPPER/LOWER & SIDE. Considering adding a bottom as I've seen that highly recommended.

I have as Exhaust: REAR

I have one more fan on the inside of the HDD cage to pull the air over my 2 WD Green drives and keep the air moving in the case.


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> They do click when my ear is right up on them. I don't know what other fans to get. I have 4 of the Fractal 140mm fans, I don't want to spend $20 each for Noctuas unless they are hands down the quietest. I just have a hard time believing there will be much of a difference at 700rpm.
> 
> TBH; the best fans I've personally used are the Antec Tricool 120mm. When spinning at ~600rpm or so, they are almost dead silent. Ever since my Refine R2, I've zip tied 2 of those fans to the inside side of the HDD cage to pull the air over the hard drives and keep the air moving to the back in the case...
> 
> I have as Intake: FRONT UPPER/LOWER & SIDE. Considering adding a bottom as I've seen that highly recommended.
> 
> I have as Exhaust: REAR
> 
> I have one more fan on the inside of the HDD cage to pull the air over my 2 WD Green drives and keep the air moving in the case.


They will be better. But $80 better is really up to you. Bottom intake fans didn't do much during my testing tbh.


----------



## Gruff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Would getting a Define S for pure air build be wrong? It feels like putting 3 120mm fans in the front gives ideal air flow throughout the case. But perhaps too noisy? Define R5 only allows for 2 such fans, at the lower half of the case.


I have three Fractal GP-14 140mm fans on the front, and a Corsair 140mm fan for exhaust along with a Hyper 212 in my Define S at the moment and it is quiet and cool even at full load. I'll probably swap out the 212 when I decide on what kind of cooling setup I want in this thing.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> They do click when my ear is right up on them.


OMG dude here is a novel idea take your head out of your case and actual use your computer!!!


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> OMG dude here is a novel idea take your head out of your case and actual use your computer!!!


Oh gee, really?

I was mentioning that they click not complaining about it. I was simply mentioning that I only hear the click if I am right up on it, I do desire the computer to be silent from my seating position, and it is not.

It is even more frustrating because I am having trouble narrowing it down to a specific issue. I just flashed the bios on my Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 card to slow the fans down at idle and that helped quite a bit and it is now silent but the rest of the computer is not...yet.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Oh gee, really?
> 
> I was mentioning that they click not complaining about it. I was simply mentioning that I only hear the click if I am right up on it, I do desire the computer to be silent from my seating position, and it is not.
> 
> It is even more frustrating because I am having trouble narrowing it down to a specific issue. I just flashed the bios on my Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 card to slow the fans down at idle and that helped quite a bit and it is now silent but the rest of the computer is not...yet.


Truly silent computing is hard to achieve because there are so many factors. The rooms noise floor is the first. In a typical living room, large open space, the noise that would be loud in a small isolated room is nearly silent. At a LAN event the noise of a computer can be unheard but loud at home.

Next is the tonal quality. Some people hear certain noise ranges more clearly than others. This means those noise ranges will seem to produce more noise to them while others may not hear it at all.


----------



## Jflisk

Noctuas are extremely quite well worth the money. I have owned the NP 120MM and 140MM. The only truly non quite ones are the industrial s. But the ones I have hit 3000 RPM and are quite below 2000 RPM 140MM industrials.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> Truly silent computing is hard to achieve because there are so many factors. The rooms noise floor is the first. In a typical living room, large open space, the noise that would be loud in a small isolated room is nearly silent. At a LAN event the noise of a computer can be unheard but loud at home.
> 
> Next is the tonal quality. Some people hear certain noise ranges more clearly than others. This means those noise ranges will seem to produce more noise to them while others may not hear it at all.


I fully agree with you. I hear the fishtank pump over my computer. Unless I am gaming and my fans ramp up.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> They do click when my ear is right up on them. I don't know what other fans to get. I have 4 of the Fractal 140mm fans, I don't want to spend $20 each for Noctuas unless they are hands down the quietest. I just have a hard time believing there will be much of a difference at 700rpm.
> 
> TBH; the best fans I've personally used are the Antec Tricool 120mm. When spinning at ~600rpm or so, they are almost dead silent. Ever since my Refine R2, I've zip tied 2 of those fans to the inside side of the HDD cage to pull the air over the hard drives and keep the air moving to the back in the case...
> 
> I have as Intake: FRONT UPPER/LOWER & SIDE. Considering adding a bottom as I've seen that highly recommended.
> 
> I have as Exhaust: REAR
> 
> I have one more fan on the inside of the HDD cage to pull the air over my 2 WD Green drives and keep the air moving in the case.


FD fans as shipped with R4 only work in vertical position, in horizontal they vibrate a lot and make even more noise. At all speeds they click and at some speeds it can be audible depending on placement and user position.
For what they ask for these FD fans I can get two other fans from Gelid that have equal RPMs, IMHO push very similar amount of air, do not click, consume half the power when measured and work in both horizontal and vertical position without any issue.
I as well do not see the need to spend 4 times as much money on Noctuas, 1 Noctua fan = 4 Gelid fans, they are simply not 4 times better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Oh gee, really?
> 
> I was mentioning that they click not complaining about it. I was simply mentioning that I only hear the click if I am right up on it, I do desire the computer to be silent from my seating position, and it is not.
> 
> It is even more frustrating because I am having trouble narrowing it down to a specific issue. I just flashed the bios on my Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 card to slow the fans down at idle and that helped quite a bit and it is now silent but the rest of the computer is not...yet.


I run my fans 500rpm 140mm, GPU is at 1100rpm 100mm fan. It's pretty darn quiet, all I can hear in a quiet night room is tiny bit of spinning and airflow noise, along with the electrical components making coil noise that can't ever be 100% avoided it's that barely hearable one that all decent power electronic devices produce.
If I stop all fans except GPU, which stops itself only on idle with monitor off, and CPU the PC is pretty much super quiet.
Hell I hear a laptop power supply brick at night or other devices and I can't stand them on so I always turns these off when ever I have any such device. But I can keep the PC running in the super quiet mode and it doesn't bother me.

You're probably spinning your fans too high, I do notice when the fans spin up 600-700rpm, the noise nearly doubles. In other terms, +3dB is double the perceived noise as far as I remember.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I run my fans 500rpm 140mm, GPU is at 1100rpm 100mm fan. It's pretty darn quiet, all I can hear in a quiet night room is tiny bit of spinning and airflow noise, along with the electrical components making coil noise that can't ever be 100% avoided it's that barely hearable one that all decent power electronic devices produce.
> If I stop all fans except GPU, which stops itself only on idle with monitor off, and CPU the PC is pretty much super quiet.
> Hell I hear a laptop power supply brick at night or other devices and I can't stand them on so I always turns these off when ever I have any such device. But I can keep the PC running in the super quiet mode and it doesn't bother me.
> 
> You're probably spinning your fans too high, I do notice when the fans spin up 600-700rpm, the noise nearly doubles. In other terms, +3dB is double the perceived noise as far as I remember.


My Sabertooth X99 board isn't letting me spin them slower than ~600 RPM on some fan headers...even with identical fans.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> My Sabertooth X99 board isn't letting me spin them slower than ~600 RPM on some fan headers...even with identical fans.


I had similar issues with my Gigabyte board not wanting to properly spin the fans down, and when I got them to spin down they wouldn't reliably spin back up when things warmed up. I have them wired into the case and just run them at 5V, well I assume it is 5V. It is the low setting that is connected to SATA so I'm guessing 5V. I can barely hear them even with my head very close to , but not inside the case


----------



## Crimson Machete

Hope this isn't a stupid question but has anyone tried installing an EK-KIT X360 in an R5 case? The radiator is massive and looks like it might be problematic.

If anyone has had success with a build (or knows for sure it won't work) please let me know.

Cheers!


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crimson Machete*
> 
> Hope this isn't a stupid question but has anyone tried installing an EK-KIT X360 in an R5 case? The radiator is massive and looks like it might be problematic.
> 
> If anyone has had success with a build (or knows for sure it won't work) please let me know.
> 
> Cheers!


I have seen a monsta 80mm thick 360 rad the front of an R5. That x-kit rad is much smaller. A 60mm thick rad can fit in the front np.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> My Sabertooth X99 board isn't letting me spin them slower than ~600 RPM on some fan headers...even with identical fans.


I have R4, so the older FD fans, 3pin, no problem to push them down to 400rpm even lower. All fans can be pushed low on DC.
PWM control often doesn't go very low unless the PWM fans are designed so, nonetheless on DC they will.


----------



## Crimson Machete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I have R4, so the older FD fans, 3pin, no problem to push them down to 400rpm even lower. All fans can be pushed low on DC.
> PWM control often doesn't go very low unless the PWM fans are designed so, nonetheless on DC they will.


Thanks! Should be adequate space for the reservoir and pump then too.

Edit: Sorry, replied to wrong post. meant to thank Wirerat.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey all,

I currently have a Corsair 600T, but I feel like it's time for a new case.
I really like the design of the Define S.

I currently have my 3570k & 980ti on water, with 1x 360mm rad (alphacool st30) en phobya 200mm

If I get the Define S what are the recommanded rads?

2 360mm rads or 1 240mm and 1 360mm?


----------



## khemist

I think you can do two slim 30mm rads and that is kind of defeating the point of the massive amount of room in the front.

Up to a monsta rad in the front if you want and 240 in the top i would do, can do two slim rads if you want.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I think you can do two slim 30mm rads and that is kind of defeating the point of the massive amount of room in the front.
> 
> Up to a monsta rad in the front if you want and 240 in the top i would do, can do two slim rads if you want.


But if you put a monsta rad in the front do you still have enough room for the reservoir?

I don't really want thin ones, i also read about the XSPC EX360 Crossflow on top and the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 (or monsta) in the front? Will that work?

Edit: I won't work, how about the 240mm crossflow on top? Or is that a bad radiator?


----------



## RnRollie

its a pity the Define does not offer just a tiny bit more height in the top, you would have been able to re-use the 200mm rad (with some creative cursing of course)
As it is 360 x 30 in the roof and 360 x 80 or 240 x 80 , or 360 x 60 or 240 x 60 in the front
(the 80mm thick Monsta needs decent fans though)

Fractal, just "lift" the roof of your cases an extra 5cm higher... that extra 5cm more between roof & MB edge would make a world of difference.

Its the only complaint i have on my ARC, just that tiny bit extra space.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Why not the 240 on top? I would take the crossflow one to have nicer tubing (not using acrylic).

I think ut60 would suffice.

If I look at pics it's impossible to imagine 2 360 mm rads in that case


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Why not the 240 on top? I would take the crossflow one to have nicer tubing (not using acrylic).
> 
> I think ut60 would suffice.
> 
> *If I look at pics it's impossible to imagine 2 360 mm rads in that case*


They fit 2 360 in the define S but the top has to be 30mm thick rad.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> But if you put a monsta rad in the front do you still have enough room for the reservoir?
> 
> I don't really want thin ones, i also read about the XSPC EX360 Crossflow on top and the Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 (or monsta) in the front? Will that work?
> 
> Edit: I won't work, how about the 240mm crossflow on top? Or is that a bad radiator?




XSPC RX360 in the front with a 60mm thick res.

Have you checked my posts?, i have a 240mm xflow on top and posted a pic of the amount of space with a thick rad and res installed in the front.


----------



## Jflisk

I have the ARC Xl with 240MM Monsta 80mm in front XSPC 2000 RPM fans Push\Pulling air see my icon on left. Also managed to fit the 120mm from my FURY X in the bottom also tight fit . Thanks


----------



## smithydan

Anyone knows if Fractal is going to do a revised Arc series and a define mini r2/S?









Edit: I see they have up a survey asking on an matx case - https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/FDcase


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I currently have a Corsair 600T, but I feel like it's time for a new case.
> I really like the design of the Define S.
> 
> I currently have my 3570k & 980ti on water, with 1x 360mm rad (alphacool st30) en phobya 200mm
> 
> If I get the Define S what are the recommanded rads?
> 
> 2 360mm rads or 1 240mm and 1 360mm?


I have an ST30 420mm rad in the roof and while it does fit it means that you can't use the back fan.


----------



## doesntevenMATer

I have an obscure Define R5 question...

Would anyone know what size threads are on the screws that mount the front fans?

I just learned the hard way that they are not M4 screws. A general internet search hasn't turned up much besides the fact that 8 screws are included with the case.

Thanks ahead of time for any help!


----------



## gftgy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doesntevenMATer*
> 
> I have an obscure
> Would anyone know what size threads are on the screws that mount the front fans?
> 
> I just learned the hard way that they are not M4 screws. A general internet search hasn't turned up much besides the fact that 8 screws are included with the case.


Wait a second... That means I won't be able to fit a HardwareLabs radiator using the screw holes, doesn't it?


----------



## doesntevenMATer

Well what I will probably do, and what I've seen someone else do, is file down the threads with a small dremel bit. That way any screw can pass through freely.

There are mounting rails right above and below the fan's threaded holes. You would have to mount the rad on the rails with short m4 screws provided (from the outside - in) , then use the standard fan screws separately basicly like the rad was never there.


----------



## doesntevenMATer

I'll let you know of for sure next week week when I'm mounting my two 280mm GTS's


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> XSPC RX360 in the front with a 60mm thick res.
> 
> Have you checked my posts?, i have a 240mm xflow on top and posted a pic of the amount of space with a thick rad and res installed in the front.


Yep, I saw your pic, that's why I checked out the crossflow rad.

I ordered the case









I think I'm gonna go for the crossflow 240 on top and a 60mm 360 rad (don't know which one yet)

Do you have a drain valve somewhere?


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i have one on the pump outlet.


----------



## DI360

I'm starting to hate this case, big trouble with a 420mm rad on the top, it doesn'fit with a pull configuration, holes doesn't match.







8 of 12 holes match


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Yeah was thinking of just unplugging the pins from the mobo for the LED.
> Or there might be a way of replacing the LED with something softer, maybe a white LED, I dunno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would try to rewire the audio jacks but there's still the USB port not working so I'm getting a replacement part from Fractal which is nice.


LED is quite easy to replace,

There is a 3mm round led(HDD activity) and a 2x5mm rectangle LED (power button) that you can just cut, and solder on white ones, i did it without actually pulling out the wires from the MOBO area, didn't want to cut zip ties and redo all of that.

I bought 3 a piece for $3.66 shipped from lighthouse LEDs.

Also a picture of my build, awaiting some cable combs.


----------



## elbeasto

I've also noticed that there's a buzzing sound when using the front panel audio when the graphics card starts working, i.e. gaming.

These cases really have bad front I/O panels. Shame, they're pretty decent otherwise.


----------



## DI360

Done, i have to buy some M4 but it is done for now.


----------



## Lshuman

Nice job, good looking computer.


----------



## Lshuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DI360*
> 
> Done, i have to buy some M4 but it is done for now.


Nice work.


----------



## Willius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DI360*
> 
> I'm starting to hate this case, big trouble with a 420mm rad on the top, it doesn'fit with a pull configuration, holes doesn't match.
> *snip* (pictures)
> 
> 8 of 12 holes match


After having the S for a few months now I start to feel the same. There is just to much that doesn't work as well, not to mention the overal build quality is poor in my eyes


----------



## elbeasto

The 420 ST30 fits in the roof of mine but it means you can't have a fan on the back.
But yeah, the quality isn't the best. I'd rather it cost more and was better quality.

Front I/O panel!!


----------



## DI360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> The 420 ST30 fits in the roof of mine but it means you can't have a fan on the back.
> But yeah, the quality isn't the best. I'd rather it cost more and was better quality.
> 
> Front I/O panel!!


Cut the fan as i did, my is a cheap Yate Loon D14SM-12 so i didn't lose much.

My power button is a bit bent, is not centered. The weld on the back isn't well done.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

I ordered my rads, decided to get the xspc 240 (crossflow) & the EK PE360


----------



## DontWorryScro

I just installed the largest air cooler I could find (Phanteks PH-TC14PE) in my Define R5.


----------



## elbeasto

Now that's a large cooler!


----------



## zorvalth

Is there someone with a hot graphic card and aircooled define s. I want to know the difference in the temperature of the card when stressed with and without front panel. Thanks!


----------



## Weber

I opened my define S one month after build. I discovered a fine dust coating the inside. I think I need to stop the dust but I don't know what to do. Anybody have a fine dust air filter solution that was tested to work with this case? Cleanable preferred over periodic replacement.


----------



## RnRollie

This


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> I opened my define S one month after build. I discovered a fine dust coating the inside. I think I need to stop the dust but I don't know what to do. Anybody have a fine dust air filter solution that was tested to work with this case? Cleanable preferred over periodic replacement.


Do you have the top open?

I am sure demciflex will have something that can work.


----------



## Weber

No, I have 4 fans in, 3 front, one bottom. Then the back out. Top closed. No way that dust is not coming thru the front or bottom standard filters. The dust is very fine, the filters do not stop it. Demciflex has R5 filters but not an S case set. Their standard 3x140mm looks too big, I measure the front at about 16.5 inches Three single 140mm might work though. The bottom filter may be hard to deal with. The pantyhose idea looks to be the best solution to try on the front. But I'm not looking forward to shopping for them.


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> No, I have 4 fans in, 3 front, one bottom. Then the back out. Top closed. No way that dust is not coming thru the front or bottom standard filters. The dust is very fine, the filters do not stop it. Demciflex has R5 filters but not an S case set. Their standard 3x140mm looks too big, I measure the front at about 16.5 inches Three single 140mm might work though. The bottom filter may be hard to deal with. The pantyhose idea looks to be the best solution to try on the front. But I'm not looking forward to shopping for them.


The problem with filtering is finding the right balance. Any filter that stops to much dust ends up needing to be cleaned every few weeks or air flow gets restricted. A filter that allows better air flow allows more dust into the system.

Is the computer set on the floor? If so then get a way to raise it, even a few inches helps reduce dust. If the room is open to outside air, screens and fans then the chances of dust are much larger. Use a Swiffer to dust the room periodically, will reduce dust in the air.

Personally I removed the filters from my Arc mini, the air flow is better and because I took some to the steps I described I only clean the system every 3 months and never have a bad dust build up.


----------



## dgraham1284

__
https://flic.kr/p/y8ytDh


__
https://flic.kr/p/y8ytDh
 by David Graham, on Flickr

Decided I needed to move to a more space friendly, less modded (no mod) Define S from a 750D. Add me to the list of satisfied users club.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dgraham1284*
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/y8ytDh
> 
> 
> __
> https://flic.kr/p/y8ytDh
> by David Graham, on Flickr


Has sudden thirst for red Kool-Aid


----------



## khemist

Will update in a week or so when done.


----------



## lurker2501

Added a 280mm in the loop.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Added a 280mm in the loop.


you can probably shorten a couple of those runs,

Cleaner look and better flow, might even drop a couple degrees.

Other than that, looks great


----------



## brazilianloser

Well going to start leak test this weekend but very soon joining in the club with my first hard tubing build.


----------



## khemist

Looks brilliant!.


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well going to start leak test this weekend but very soon joining in the club with my first hard tubing build.


Very nice looking build mate, well done.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Looks brilliant!.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Very nice looking build mate, well done.


Thanks guys. Yeah it been on the works for about two weeks. Hopefully leak test goes as intended and I can get it finished up and ready to rock this weekend.


----------



## GnorthernGnome

Weighing up an R5 for a new Skylake build, largely love the case but the side window is far too small. Got me wondering, can you swap out the side panel for the Define S and stick it on an R5 (I'm guessing not, but worth a shot!)? On the flipside, is there any way to mount 5.5" drives in the Define S (possible remove a fan, buy a mount and bolt it in...)?
OR failing both the above, does anyone know of any builds where people have modded the side window of the R5 to be much larger? Would love to know if there were any particularly tricky issues with taking this approach or just see some outcomes. I'll continue trawling around, but hoped someone could point me in the right direction


----------



## ForTheHorde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnorthernGnome*
> 
> Weighing up an R5 for a new Skylake build, largely love the case but the side window is far too small. Got me wondering, can you swap out the side panel for the Define S and stick it on an R5 (I'm guessing not, but worth a shot!)? On the flipside, is there any way to mount 5.5" drives in the Define S (possible remove a fan, buy a mount and bolt it in...)?
> OR failing both the above, does anyone know of any builds where people have modded the side window of the R5 to be much larger? Would love to know if there were any particularly tricky issues with taking this approach or just see some outcomes. I'll continue trawling around, but hoped someone could point me in the right direction


You could attempt something like this with the R5






Or maybe just buy an external 5.5" mount/drive and use the Define S

Good look either way and don't forget to do a build log so we can see your progress


----------



## brazilianloser

Well finally finished the build. Spent the day leak testing and now to rest and wait for tomorrow to do some overclocking and what not.


----------



## elbeasto

very nice, looks like a build I saw on a youtube video


----------



## Wildblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Well finally finished the build. Spent the day leak testing and now to rest and wait for tomorrow to do some overclocking and what not.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Here's my build, I'll take a decent pic next week.

Still have to paint the i/o brackets in black. Need a sticker for psu and a cable for my lighting, the one provided was to short.



Old and new hardware







Z77 (3570k) with 980ti


----------



## khemist

Very nice!.


----------



## GnorthernGnome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForTheHorde*
> 
> You could attempt something like this with the R5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe just buy an external 5.5" mount/drive and use the Define S
> 
> Good look either way and don't forget to do a build log so we can see your progress


Oh cool, thanks for the link, exactly what I've been trying to find for several days now! The big next question, given that I have no tools that will cut a case or experience doing anything like this, is whether it's worth the gamble and extra cost or if I should just go with a Corsair 750D...
Why couldn't Fractal have just included a sodding 5.5" bay with the Define S xD


----------



## lurker2501

I'm getting strange temps at full load in prime95. Is this OK or something is wrong?



Idle temps


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> I'm getting strange temps at full load in prime95. Is this OK or something is wrong?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Idle temps
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I personally don't use prime... Too many horror stories. AIDA64 or even the Intel Xtreme Utility are better options in my opinion. And yes sir that is some bad temps. Anything over 85 to me is bad.


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I personally don't use prime... Too many horror stories. AIDA64 or even the Intel Xtreme Utility are better options in my opinion. And yes sir that is some bad temps. Anything over 85 to me is bad.


Any ideas how do fix this?


----------



## khemist

If you are going to use prime95 with that cpu then try version 26.6, or realbench / intel extreme tuning utility.


----------



## incog

This would be the thread where I would ask. http://www.overclock.net/t/1411077/haswell-overclocking-guide-with-statistics


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> If you are going to use prime95 with that cpu then try version 26.6, or realbench / intel extreme tuning utility.


Pretty much same result, a little better, but I suspect it's still quite bad. I also noticed that the temperature drops very fast after the test. Does it mean that the blocks aren't seated properly or there's too much restriction in the loop?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Pretty much same result, a little better, but I suspect it's still quite bad. I also noticed that the temperature drops very fast after the test. Does it mean that the blocks aren't seated properly or there's too much restriction in the loop?


Business as usual, options are either delid it and replace the stock gunk with Liquid Pro or just deal with the temps.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Pretty much same result, a little better, but I suspect it's still quite bad. I also noticed that the temperature drops very fast after the test. Does it mean that the blocks aren't seated properly or there's too much restriction in the loop?


What is the Vcore voltage from HW monitor?

I've been getting help with my OC in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1490324/the-intel-devils-canyon-owners-club


----------



## brazilianloser

Front page needs some updating... do we still got the folks in charge of this club around?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lurker2501*
> 
> Pretty much same result, a little better, but I suspect it's still quite bad. I also noticed that the temperature drops very fast after the test. Does it mean that the blocks aren't seated properly or there's too much restriction in the loop?


Before you kick the CPU cooler out the window, I'd recheck the voltages when the system is under stress.

The screenshot of XTU shows Vcore is set to adaptive. I would set a fixed Vcore, say 1.25V with zero offset and stress again and see what temps are.

HWiNFO64 should list the voltage the MoBo is reporting vs what the Bios thinks it is set to.

I'm clearly not an expert on this but I've been going through similar OC pain and high heat with my new build and found out my MoBo was increasing Vcore above what I thought I had set it to. Once I set all the Auto settings to manual my system started to behave better from a heat management point of view, but not as good from an OC perspective.

The Devil's canyon owners thread has been really helpful and here's a starting point a couple of weeks ago.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1490324/the-intel-devils-canyon-owners-club/17900


----------



## Weber

Done. Define S with expanded 240x loop. temps 50C at stock under full load.


----------



## 0xzz

im thinking about buying a Define S for my new build. is it possible to fit two 360 slim rads (26mm thick) into this case with the front rads "fitting end" being at the top??


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> im thinking about buying a Define S for my new build. is it possible to fit two 360 slim rads (26mm thick) into this case with the front rads "fitting end" being at the top??


Look at the pictures for the club. I am pretty sure I saw a post a few weeks back where a guy had two 360s slim in his build. Personally I think a 360 and a 240 of okay thickness look a lot better though


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Look at the pictures for the club. I am pretty sure I saw a post a few weeks back where a guy had two 360s slim in his build. Personally I think a 360 and a 240 of okay thickness look a lot better though


Ah thanks!
are those reservoir mounting brackets only for reservoirs or can i put something like a EK XRES D5 (Revo) incl. Pump on there too?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0xzz*
> 
> Ah thanks!
> are those reservoir mounting brackets only for reservoirs or can i put something like a EK XRES D5 (Revo) incl. Pump on there too?


Hmm you should be able to. But in my case for example the pump pushes the reservoir a bit out from the wall. So I just have it freestanding. You probably be better with the other xspc pump/reservoir that the pump is more lean.


----------



## Dreamliner

Gosh. All these water cooling builds.









I think it'd be neat to water cool, I'm just too scared to try and it's expensive!

My 5820K is crusing along at 4.5Ghz and I just have a bunch of slowly spinning fans. Everything is dead quiet (even tweaked my graphics card BIOS to slow the fans down at idle); I can't imagine water cooling being any quieter. It may be a touch cooler, but I doubt I'd get much more juice out of my chip.









Watercooling does look awesome, but I have one question for all you Define S builders: Aren't you concerned with your hard drives cooking behind the back panel without any airflow?

Anyhow, here's what I'm working with, Define R4 Blackout Edition:



The fan in the middle there is to help the front fans and pull the air over the hard drives, the Fractal HDD cage is pretty restrictive.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Hmm you should be able to. But in my case for example the pump pushes the reservoir a bit out from the wall. So I just have it freestanding. You probably be better with the other xspc pump/reservoir that the pump is more lean.


i dont really understand what you mean by that, what pump/res do you have??


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Watercooling does look awesome, but I have one question for all you Define S builders: Aren't you concerned with your hard drives cooking behind the back panel without any airflow?


I wouldn't though it would slightly depend on the hard drive.

I stashed my 3TB WD Red in my R5's 5.25" bay when I removed the 2nd drive cage. Grabbed some foam from PSU packaging, cut some pieces of it > duct tape to hold the pieces together..



Ahem.. Ain't pretty but it works.
Highest I've seen it go is 40C. Right now 37C and I've got encoding jobs running through Handbrake for few hours already. Pretty limited airflow for it as I've got the upper 5.25" bay occupied with BD drive and the front of the 5.25" bay I've got sealed with duct tape as well. The HR-02 Macho fan might have slight influence on it.
Surprised the foam actually absorbs the little vibrations this 5400rpm drive emits. TY-147 in bottom intake position fastened with screws caused few orders of magnitude more vibrations than this solution. *Finally* I had use for the handful of silicone mount thingydoodlers I've gotten along with Noctua fans in the past, with them I got rid of the annoying vibration.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Gosh. All these water cooling builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it'd be neat to water cool, I'm just too scared to try and it's expensive!
> 
> My 5820K is crusing along at 4.5Ghz and I just have a bunch of slowly spinning fans. Everything is dead quiet (even tweaked my graphics card BIOS to slow the fans down at idle); I can't imagine water cooling being any quieter. It may be a touch cooler, but I doubt I'd get much more juice out of my chip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Watercooling does look awesome, but I have one question for all you Define S builders: Aren't you concerned with your hard drives cooking behind the back panel without any airflow?


Idle temps aren't much different between air and water usually (at least on the builds I have done - could have high temps on air if the case air flow isn't designed well). It is the heavy load temps that are very different.

I don't have any use for 3.5" drives. I have some in a drive cage externally that I can connect to to access. May not be quite as fast, but good enough.


----------



## mtrapuzz

double


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I wouldn't though it would slightly depend on the hard drive.
> 
> I stashed my 3TB WD Red in my R5's 5.25"


Whatever works! You've never really lived if you've never had unsecured components floating in a case.









I always wondered why case companies don't make a fan mount up there for precisely what you've done (They also make 3.5 -> 5.25 adapters







). I just freak out if I don't have active cooling on my drives. My WD Black drives ran warm, these new 5TB Greens are pretty cool...and quiet!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Idle temps aren't much different between air and water usually (at least on the builds I have done - could have high temps on air if the case air flow isn't designed well). It is the heavy load temps that are very different.
> 
> I don't have any use for 3.5" drives. I have some in a drive cage externally that I can connect to to access. May not be quite as fast, but good enough.


I figured most would be on a NAS or external of some sort.

During AIDA 64, my hottest core peaked at 74*C (165*F). It's a bit toastier than I'd like, but way below any harmful threshold and 90% my work is idle stuff. It will be interesting to see once I have it rendering a video or something.

I'd love to play with watercooling, but I'd be too much of a nervous wreck!


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> During AIDA 64, my hottest core peaked at 74*C (165*F). It's a bit toastier than I'd like, but way below any harmful threshold and 90% my work is idle stuff. It will be interesting to see once I have it rendering a video or something.
> 
> I'd love to play with watercooling, but I'd be too much of a nervous wreck!


My temps won't really go over 50 C no matter how hard I push (have a 360 x 60 rad cooling a 4790k and a titan x). And that is with fans at a medium speed (have 2000 rpm noctuas, so about 1100 rpm). Idle, the temps sit at ~34C with fans at 400 rpm. Just use good compression fittings and there isn't much to worry about.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> My temps won't really go over 50 C no matter how hard I push (have a 360 x 60 rad cooling a 4790k and a titan x). And that is with fans at a medium speed (have 2000 rpm noctuas, so about 1100 rpm). Idle, the temps sit at ~34C with fans at 400 rpm. Just use good compression fittings and there isn't much to worry about.


Are you still using that Corsair watercooler? I was reading about people having them leak and dripping some goo like substance all over their video cards. That was enough right there to say nope. I am like a magnet for product defects, not worth the risk.









I love the idea, I really do. I just don't think for my usage its necessary (as if anything in this thread is).


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Are you still using that Corsair watercooler? I was reading about people having them leak and dripping some goo like substance all over their video cards. That was enough right there to say nope. I am like a magnet for product defects, not worth the risk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the idea, I really do. I just don't think for my usage its necessary (as if anything in this thread is).


No. Have a hardline custom loop now. Yeah its not necessary. I like to look at it more than anything. Peace of mind that you arent thermally stressing the pcb and electronics much is good also.


----------



## elbeasto

I'm thinking about using a Corsair AiO back in the 750D again. The Audio in the Design S is just terrible. The front panel doesn't work and the fans from the rad rattle against the roof.

It's a great design for WC'ing but the bad quality is a deal breaker for me.

I emailed a month ago for a new front panel which they said they would send in 2 weeks and I never heard from them again.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> I'm thinking about using a Corsair AiO back in the 750D again. The Audio in the Design S is just terrible. The front panel doesn't work and the fans from the rad rattle against the roof.
> 
> It's a great design for WC'ing but the bad quality is a deal breaker for me.
> 
> I emailed a month ago for a new front panel which they said they would send in 2 weeks and I never heard from them again.


Fractal quality hasn't been the greatest. I switched to the R3 from an old Antec. Design was good, fit and finished was only okay. I recently got an R4 and fit and finish was bad; the entire case is twisted and doors don't fit right, etc. In fact I called and emailed Fractal trying to get a replacement. No reply seems to be common. I've been working since June to get a replacement.

I'm hoping they follow through and get me a new case. I finally got through to a human just this week; I'll know what they'll do on Monday and post back then.


----------



## Dan-H

My R5 had no issues. Everything works, fits, looks good, feels good, sounds good, smells good ... Not gonna taste it.


----------



## elbeasto

Good luck getting another case, I can't even get a replacement part...


----------



## Weber

I got a missing define S front mag filter no charge. CS was prompt and polite. Used the support email in the states. I might spend more on a case to get happier, but the define S looks and functions good at its price point. I did email support about things I did not like about the design, but no response, lol.


----------



## doesntevenMATer

My Fractal Design Define R5 Case Mod

So I had every intention of spending my weekend putting together a build log showing progress made on my first water cooled and modded computer build.
*...BUT...*
Last night I completed the water cooling loop and the system started up with no problem. I was super nervous water would just start gushing everywhere, but the system didn't have any leaks and booted without any issues What's the first thing you do after water cooling your PC? OVERCLOCK! I figured I'd play it safe and used Asus' automatic overclocking utility in the Ai Suite. The system reboots a couple times, which is expected. On the third reboot my computer did not come back on. I instantly had a bad feeling about this, like it was more than just a little Windows 10 quirk.
When I tried to turn on my PC again it posted fine, gave me the DEL or F12 to BIOS option (which did not work), and afterwards I got a message saying "Data in the EC or EC cash may be corrupt".
*WHAT THE HECK?!* I checked all of the usual things. I did the routine CMOS jumper, battery, power supply, change ram, unplug non-essentials, blah, blah blah. Nothing has worked. So I got the pleasure of taking apart my new water cooled system so I can try to fix the motherboard. Waiting for a reply from Asus as to what I should do. I'm hoping they will have an easy fix or will be able to replace my board.

I was/am so upset about the situation that I figured posting something will make me feel like I've actually accomplished something. So here are the exterior shots of my case.

The design is rather simple. 3 blow holes with MnPCtech overkill fan grills and the MnPCtech machined side panel. Eventually there will be a digital thermometer display behind the front cover that can be seen through the middle fan grill. Other than that I don't plan on doing much more to the exterior. My aesthetic tends to be rather simple and clean as opposed to the flash computers that will turn heads and I'm OK with that.


----------



## doesntevenMATer

Oops...double posted.
Where's the delete option anyway?


----------



## elbeasto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doesntevenMATer*
> 
> My Fractal Design Define R5 Case Mod
> 
> So I had every intention of spending my weekend putting together a build log showing progress made on my first water cooled and modded computer build.
> *...BUT...*
> Last night I completed the water cooling loop and the system started up with no problem. I was super nervous water would just start gushing everywhere, but the system didn't have any leaks and booted without any issues What's the first thing you do after water cooling your PC? OVERCLOCK! I figured I'd play it safe and used Asus' automatic overclocking utility in the Ai Suite. The system reboots a couple times, which is expected. On the third reboot my computer did not come back on. I instantly had a bad feeling about this, like it was more than just a little Windows 10 quirk.
> When I tried to turn on my PC again it posted fine, gave me the DEL or F12 to BIOS option (which did not work), and afterwards I got a message saying "Data in the EC or EC cash may be corrupt".
> *WHAT THE HECK?!* I checked all of the usual things. I did the routine CMOS jumper, battery, power supply, change ram, unplug non-essentials, blah, blah blah. Nothing has worked. So I got the pleasure of taking apart my new water cooled system so I can try to fix the motherboard. Waiting for a reply from Asus as to what I should do. I'm hoping they will have an easy fix or will be able to replace my board.
> 
> I was/am so upset about the situation that I figured posting something will make me feel like I've actually accomplished something. So here are the exterior shots of my case.
> 
> The design is rather simple. 3 blow holes with MnPCtech overkill fan grills and the MnPCtech machined side panel. Eventually there will be a digital thermometer display behind the front cover that can be seen through the middle fan grill. Other than that I don't plan on doing much more to the exterior. My aesthetic tends to be rather simple and clean as opposed to the flash computers that will turn heads and I'm OK with that.


Beautiful work on the exterior there, just sorry to hear that you board is having problems.

I've had nothing but problems with an Asus X99-A board so maybe their QC is on par with Fractal's these days...


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doesntevenMATer*
> 
> My Fractal Design Define R5 Case Mod
> 
> So I had every intention of spending my weekend putting together a build log showing progress made on my first water cooled and modded computer build.
> *...BUT...*
> Last night I completed the water cooling loop and the system started up with no problem. I was super nervous water would just start gushing everywhere, but the system didn't have any leaks and booted without any issues What's the first thing you do after water cooling your PC? OVERCLOCK! I figured I'd play it safe and used Asus' automatic overclocking utility in the Ai Suite. The system reboots a couple times, which is expected. On the third reboot my computer did not come back on. I instantly had a bad feeling about this, like it was more than just a little Windows 10 quirk.
> When I tried to turn on my PC again it posted fine, gave me the DEL or F12 to BIOS option (which did not work), and afterwards I got a message saying "Data in the EC or EC cash may be corrupt".
> *WHAT THE HECK?!* I checked all of the usual things. I did the routine CMOS jumper, battery, power supply, change ram, unplug non-essentials, blah, blah blah. Nothing has worked. So I got the pleasure of taking apart my new water cooled system so I can try to fix the motherboard. Waiting for a reply from Asus as to what I should do. I'm hoping they will have an easy fix or will be able to replace my board.
> 
> I was/am so upset about the situation that I figured posting something will make me feel like I've actually accomplished something. So here are the exterior shots of my case.
> 
> The design is rather simple. 3 blow holes with MnPCtech overkill fan grills and the MnPCtech machined side panel. Eventually there will be a digital thermometer display behind the front cover that can be seen through the middle fan grill. Other than that I don't plan on doing much more to the exterior. My aesthetic tends to be rather simple and clean as opposed to the flash computers that will turn heads and I'm OK with that.


Could you use another computer to download the latest bios for that board and pale out on a flash drive per the EZ Flash instructions? Maybe by re flashing the bios it will live again. Oh and save the flash drive with the bios until you are satisfied with your OC. I have read that Asus's flash drive bios flashing can work without a CPU and RAM.


----------



## doesntevenMATer

I thought about that, but it won't let me get into BIOS or EZflash.
I hit delete to get into BIOS to possibly boot from disk and no luck.
t just locks up and reboots after the logo/go to BIOS screen.


----------



## dusters16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doesntevenMATer*
> 
> I thought about that, but it won't let me get into BIOS or EZflash.
> I hit delete to get into BIOS to possibly boot from disk and no luck.
> t just locks up and reboots after the logo/go to BIOS screen.


What is your mobo model?

This is the method I am referring to.

http://event.asus.com/2012/mb/USB_BIOS_Flashback_GUIDE/


----------



## doesntevenMATer

Yeh I don't think I can do that. I got a econo-model.

Z97-AR


----------



## dusters16

Ok. On that pdf, go to page 12 that has the mobo diagram. Try messing with numbers 5 (pg34), 6, and 7. Separately at first.

Also, page 33, about Jumpers. Do the RTC clearing, as that will wipe out all settings in the bios.

Also, page 56. 2.1.4 Asus BIOS Updater. This looks promising.


----------



## elbeasto

Check you didn't flick an switches on the mobo that aren't now in default positions.


----------



## rapkct

Absolutely loved the R5 I'm having now. No issues with it, and it survived being kicked in the front by accident.


----------



## elbeasto

LoL - Anything that can survive a kick to the face is worth a mention


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doesntevenMATer*
> 
> My Fractal Design Define R5 Case Mod
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So I had every intention of spending my weekend putting together a build log showing progress made on my first water cooled and modded computer build.
> *...BUT...*
> Last night I completed the water cooling loop and the system started up with no problem. I was super nervous water would just start gushing everywhere, but the system didn't have any leaks and booted without any issues What's the first thing you do after water cooling your PC? OVERCLOCK! I figured I'd play it safe and used Asus' automatic overclocking utility in the Ai Suite. The system reboots a couple times, which is expected. On the third reboot my computer did not come back on. I instantly had a bad feeling about this, like it was more than just a little Windows 10 quirk.
> When I tried to turn on my PC again it posted fine, gave me the DEL or F12 to BIOS option (which did not work), and afterwards I got a message saying "Data in the EC or EC cash may be corrupt".
> *WHAT THE HECK?!* I checked all of the usual things. I did the routine CMOS jumper, battery, power supply, change ram, unplug non-essentials, blah, blah blah. Nothing has worked. So I got the pleasure of taking apart my new water cooled system so I can try to fix the motherboard. Waiting for a reply from Asus as to what I should do. I'm hoping they will have an easy fix or will be able to replace my board.
> 
> I was/am so upset about the situation that I figured posting something will make me feel like I've actually accomplished something. So here are the exterior shots of my case.
> 
> The design is rather simple. 3 blow holes with MnPCtech overkill fan grills and the MnPCtech machined side panel. Eventually there will be a digital thermometer display behind the front cover that can be seen through the middle fan grill. Other than that I don't plan on doing much more to the exterior. My aesthetic tends to be rather simple and clean as opposed to the flash computers that will turn heads and I'm OK with that.


Can't you boot a secondary UEFI or at least reset the one you have? None the less as said there is always that Asus USB recovery.
It's one thing I don't like about Asus boards, often only 1 UEFI and a pain to recover. Using auto overclocking from mobo manufacturer is a dumb idea to begin with









I like the stainless steel hex bolts, but that's about it. It looks like a Frankenstein and the clean look is gone. All it misses is camo paint, rust and bullet holes.


----------



## doesntevenMATer

Well good news, I got my mobo back to working condition. In the end I had to clear the CMOS via the jumper, disconnect the 24 and 8 pin power, and remove the battery overnight. Before I had only left the board unplugged for a couple minutes and apparently that wasn't long enough.

Work log attempt #2 coming soon.

JackCY: I'm so fortunate that I'll be finished in time for Halloween. "A Frankenstein" will be perfect for the holiday. You're in luck as well, I've heard lots of people are going out as trolls this year.
Thanks for the constructive criticism.


----------



## ZC4065

Anyone with the Define S tried fitting two 360mm radiators in it? The manual says it's possible but looking at the case, I'm not so sure


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZC4065*
> 
> Anyone with the Define S tried fitting two 360mm radiators in it? The manual says it's possible but looking at the case, I'm not so sure


Someone posted a picture a few weeks back of it. They were both slim radiators though and the clearance was almost non existent. I would go back and search for ya but I am lazy.


----------



## 0xzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Someone posted a picture a few weeks back of it. They were both slim radiators though and the clearance was almost non existent. I would go back and search for ya but I am lazy.


they were not that slim, 38mm rad + 25mm fan on top and front. he posted a build log, here is the link:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir


----------



## Wirerat

as said before. A 360 rad top and a 280 front looks better with similar overall rad space.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> as said before. A 360 rad top and a 280 front looks better with similar overall rad space.


Yeap I like the way my 360 and 240 combo looks a lot better if it was two 360.


----------



## CC268

***Help me out guys!

Hey guys,

I am hoping at least a few of you can provide me with some solid advice on *fan/radiator setup*! I just got my Fractal Design Define S case today. This is the build that is going in it (I may up the 390X to a 980TI, but not sure yet): http://pcpartpicker.com/user/CC268/saved/TcDscf

*Option 1:*
I would like to mount the X61 radiator on the front and keep the top CLOSED to prevent dust from getting in and to provide a more quiet system. Is this a good idea? If so, where else should I mount fans to provide the best cooling? Would it be best to do a push-pull, pull, or push setup in this case?

*Option 2:*
I could of course mount the radiator up top, but with no dust filter it will allow more dust in. However, I could have three 140mm fans on the front and one fan on the rear of the case as well. Would it be best to do a push-pull, pull, or push setup in this case?

Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> ***Help me out guys!
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am hoping at least a few of you can provide me with some solid advice on *fan/radiator setup*! I just got my Fractal Design Define S case today. This is the build that is going in it (I may up the 390X to a 980TI, but not sure yet): http://pcpartpicker.com/user/CC268/saved/TcDscf
> 
> *Option 1:*
> I would like to mount the X61 radiator on the front and keep the top CLOSED to prevent dust from getting in and to provide a more quiet system. Is this a good idea? If so, where else should I mount fans to provide the best cooling? Would it be best to do a push-pull, pull, or push setup in this case? *Push pull is always better than just push or pull, but it doesn't scale up equally in performance. If you're on a budget then just do push from the front as intake, and exhaust from the back, and maybe add another intake at bottom by PSU-positive pressure FTW*
> 
> *Option 2:*
> I could of course mount the radiator up top, but with no dust filter it will allow more dust in. However, I could have three 140mm fans on the front and one fan on the rear of the case as well. Would it be best to do a push-pull, pull, or push setup in this case?
> 
> Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## lagittaja

Whether you benefit from push/pull depends on a couple things. Mainly the FPI of the radiator (fins per inch) and it's thickness along with the fan speed.
Generally speaking, higher the density (FPI) and/or thickness the more you benefit from P/P and lower the fan speed the more you benefit from P/P.
Example.. If you go with push/pull, you can run the 4 fans at a slower speed to achieve the same results than with only 2 fans.
I only found a single review of the X61 which tested it with dual vs quad fans.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/67241-nzxt-kraken-x61-x41-liquid-cpu-coolers-review-8.html
This is with, afaik, the fans running full speed. If it had been ran with say the fans running at half the speed the difference would be larger.

But given you're only cooling a 6600K you'll be just fine with push on the X61. I'd mount it in the front. Keep the top sealed and exhaust through the back. In case you need more airflow add another intake on the bottom and depending on the speed you run the various fans at, you could consider adding another exhaust in the top rear spot for the air to flow better.
If you end up adding another exhaust on the top you can use black tape to mask off the exposed mesh section. Pretty unnoticeable, blocks any open area so dust can't get in and when the rig is running the fan will blow away any dust particles. Of course when the fan doesn't spin dust can fall through past the fan blades but I could place something on top of it say a book or something of that size to block it off in case I leave the rig off for extended period of time.


----------



## CC268

Thanks a lot for your replies guys!

So you are recommending that I use the front radiator as an intake then instead of exhaust? In that case I could do a pull configuration so you can see the fans - or do a push configuration where the fans would be hidden.

Am I losing a lot of cooling potential from mounting on the front instead of the top? (especially since I will be losing the possibility of adding 3 140mm AF fans to the front)


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Thanks a lot for your replies guys!
> 
> So you are recommending that I use the front radiator as an intake then instead of exhaust? In that case I could do a pull configuration so you can see the fans - or do a push configuration where the fans would be hidden.
> 
> Am I losing a lot of cooling potential from mounting on the front instead of the top? (especially since I will be losing the possibility of adding 3 140mm AF fans to the front)


I would definitely recommend putting it in the front since its a single rad, I would recommend push where the fans are hidden plus that will give you marginally better cooling performance on the RAD.

Sure the extra fans would help if you mount it on top, but it wouldn't justify the cost in my eyes.


----------



## CC268

Thanks I appreciate the help - I will definitely give that setup a shot - if I find my temps are too high I can always rearrange it and add the fans on the front.


----------



## Anateus

Could anyone tell me what kind of screws are used with arc MIDI r2 hdd cages? Bonus points for pics.


----------



## rapkct

This is my current configuration with the R5:



Been getting around 35-37 C on the 4770K at idle and around 50-55 C when I'm playing WoWS. Would that be normal? Haven't have the chance to really check the ambient temps, but when the PC is placed in a room with 20 C room temperature via air conditioning, it goes down to around 29 C.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> This is my current configuration with the R5:
> 
> 
> 
> Been getting around 35-37 C on the 4770K at idle and around 50-55 C when I'm playing WoWS. Would that be normal? Haven't have the chance to really check the ambient temps, but when the PC is placed in a room with 20 C room temperature via air conditioning, it goes down to around 29 C.


Nothing wrong with those temps.

I always set my fan speed profile for 55-60c gaming cpu temps with 65c max encoding cpu load.


----------



## SonnyTubbs

Just transferred some parts to a Define S from a Define R4, and the case is oh so close to my ideal. It was so easy to work in and easy to keep clean. I do wish it was a little more luxe; something, I for one, would gladly pay a premium for. Everything felt a just a little more plastic and thinner than the R4. Something I would gladly trade for the ability to hide drives and go cage'less.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Nothing wrong with those temps.
> 
> I always set my fan speed profile for 55-60c gaming cpu temps with 65c max encoding cpu load.


I had a look at the temps again. My CPU temp is around 37-38C, rarely touching 36C. Fans was set to balanced though (intake at max speed).


----------



## exzacklyright

Fractal Design NODE 202 & CORE 500 vs Corsair 250D, NCase M1, Node 304, and Bitfenix Prodigy? How do they compare?


----------



## elviss08

Hi everyone, this is my first built pc, hope you like it. Cheers









Intel Core i7 4790K @ 4.8Ghz
Asus Maximus VII Ranger LGA 1150
G.Skill Sniper 8GB 1866Mhz
Asus R9 280 3GB Direct CU II OC Edition
SanDisk Ultra II 240GB SSD
Seagate 2TB SSHD
Hgst 1.500GB HDD
CORSAIR CX600 PSU
Cooler Master Nepton 140XL
Fractal Desing Define S


----------



## brazilianloser

@elviss08 Just curious though... why ya mounted the two 2.5 drives in the front instead of the back of the case? and that sub on the top of your desk doesn't bother you...?


----------



## -Shy-

Greetings,

I'm really interested in this case, but i have a few questions i would appreciate if answered :

1) How silent really are these stock GP14 fans which come with the case, and how efficient do they cool ?

2) Let's say i want to purchase a 980Ti or a R9 Fury (Non-X) , would i be able to install those cards in the Define R5 without the need to add more fans ?
In other words, are the stock fans any good, or i'd be better off changing them for lets say a pair of Noctua fans ?

I know there are a lot of reviews for this case, but i thought asking people who actually have this case would give me a more certain answer.

Cheers!


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Shy-*
> 
> Greetings,
> 
> I'm really interested in this case, but i have a few questions i would appreciate if answered :
> 
> 1) How silent really are these stock GP14 fans which come with the case, and how efficient do they cool ?
> 
> 2) Let's say i want to purchase a 980Ti or a R9 Fury (Non-X) , would i be able to install those cards in the Define R5 without the need to add more fans ?
> In other words, are the stock fans any good, or i'd be better off changing them for lets say a pair of Noctua fans ?
> 
> I know there are a lot of reviews for this case, but i thought asking people who actually have this case would give me a more certain answer.
> 
> Cheers!


They're good case fans. No need to change them.

Adding second intake is recommended for total 2x in / 1x out. Stock configuration with 1x in / 1x out isn't enough for proper airflow and for achieving positive pressure* inside the case.
I'd recommend reading SilentPCReview's 'Quiet ATX Gamer R5' article. End of page 3 has baseline noise measurements, page 4 temperature's and their experiments with adding a second intake.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/Quiet_ATX_Gamer_R5_Version

*Air drawn into the case by only intake fans through filtered intakes, not from every nook and cranny with stock config which would be negative pressure hence dust getting in..


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> They're good case fans. No need to change them.


Basically this. The only problem with the fans is... you can't get them anywhere else without buying another Fractal casing.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rapkct*
> 
> Basically this. The only problem with the fans is... you can't get them anywhere else without buying another Fractal casing.


not at all true. These are the fans the define r5 and define s use. I ordered a third one.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> not at all true. These are the fans the define r5 and define s use. I ordered a third one.


Ouch, didn't notice that. Now to see whether there's anyone in this country that stocks them (Newegg doesn't ship to Malaysia).


----------



## elviss08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> @elviss08 Just curious though... why ya mounted the two 2.5 drives in the front instead of the back of the case? and that sub on the top of your desk doesn't bother you...?


I really like to see my ssd on front, not hidden with cables.


----------



## -Shy-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> They're good case fans. No need to change them.
> 
> Adding second intake is recommended for total 2x in / 1x out. Stock configuration with 1x in / 1x out isn't enough for proper airflow and for achieving positive pressure* inside the case.
> I'd recommend reading SilentPCReview's 'Quiet ATX Gamer R5' article. End of page 3 has baseline noise measurements, page 4 temperature's and their experiments with adding a second intake.
> http://www.silentpcreview.com/Quiet_ATX_Gamer_R5_Version
> 
> *Air drawn into the case by only intake fans through filtered intakes, not from every nook and cranny with stock config which would be negative pressure hence dust getting in..


Many thanks for the link. it was really helpful.
So i guess i'm better off keeping the stock fans and add another Fractal design's own GP14 fan on the front, to help pushing more air into the case.

Cheers!


----------



## rapkct

I went with 3 in 1 out. Works for me so far.


----------



## Karnivore

Am I the only one who can't seem to screw the HDD drives into place?

I took the top tray out, and the HDD that came with my PC was clamped down nicely. I can't for the life of my screw my other HDD's in though. I can put the rubber bits on, screw the HDD onto the white tray and slide it in, but the screws right on the side seem far too big so stop them from vibrating.

It's irritating me now because my HDD's are vibrating like crazy. The rest of the R5 is great, but the HDD trays are poorly designed.


----------



## JackCY

Picture?

Don't use HDD cages, rule #1 for noise reduction.
#2 don't use HDDs.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Hey guys, any news on slotted moduvents yet? Want to add a 240mm top rad but don't want dust to settle into the case and for noise reasons I went with 1 single rad rather than open the top up, slotted vents could allow an extra rad keeping a bit of noise dampening, sort of. Here's my design S build any way. 2500k and 980ti, 360mm monsta rad, 8cm thick, in push pull. Outer push fans behind plastic front panel.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Hey guys, any news on slotted moduvents yet? Want to add a 240mm top rad but don't want dust to settle into the case and for noise reasons I went with 1 single rad rather than open the top up, slotted vents could allow an extra rad keeping a bit of noise dampening, sort of. Here's my design S build any way. 2500k and 980ti, 360mm monsta rad, 8cm thick, in push pull. Outer push fans behind plastic front panel.


No news yet, unfortunately. I am waiting on same same thing.


----------



## dzb87

Let's show that we are many.
Please send product suggestions for filtered moduvents








http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dzb87*
> 
> Let's show that we are many.
> Please send product suggestions for filtered moduvents
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


Sent a request for them, we will get our custom moduvents!


----------



## fyzzz

Have anyone noticed how similar the define r4 and define s is? Dust filter pulls out at the back, only 120 mm fan mount in bottom, similar sidepanel mounting. R4 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x 523mm, Define S Case dimensions (WxHxD): 233 x 451 x 520mm. Anyway i could be completely be wandering out in the dark, but to me the define s feels like a modified r4. Just wanted to point that out.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyzzz*
> 
> Have anyone noticed how similar the define r4 and define s is? Dust filter pulls out at the back, only 120 mm fan mount in bottom, similar sidepanel mounting. R4 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x 523mm, Define S Case dimensions (WxHxD): 233 x 451 x 520mm. Anyway i could be completely be wandering out in the dark, but to me the define s feels like a modified r4. Just wanted to point that out.


I won't be that surprised, some companies would love to tweak around their own proven designs to create a new derivative.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyzzz*
> 
> Have anyone noticed how similar the define r4 and define s is? Dust filter pulls out at the back, only 120 mm fan mount in bottom, similar sidepanel mounting. R4 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x 523mm, Define S Case dimensions (WxHxD): 233 x 451 x 520mm. Anyway i could be completely be wandering out in the dark, but to me the define s feels like a modified r4. Just wanted to point that out.


the height of the S isn't 451, its 465 at least that's what it says for the height on the length conversion chart

Fractal Design 4: 18.27" x 9.13" x 20.59"

Fractal Design S: 18.31" x 9.17" x 20.94"


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Sent a request for them, we will get our custom moduvents!


They told me they were looking into it.


----------



## SonnyTubbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyzzz*
> 
> Have anyone noticed how similar the define r4 and define s is?.


Absolutely, I just switched my build from a r4 to a Define S - same case, just retooled. I already wonder what Define S v2 will have in store, since a couple of tweaks would make the case even better. More rad clearance on top would be killer for example.

Also, I love the moduvent filter idea. Sign me up!


----------



## incog

I need a Define S mini.

All of these cases are great but they're just slightly too big


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> I need a Define S mini.
> 
> All of these cases are great but they're just slightly too big


I don't find the Define S to be too big... but personal opinion being that I use to have a 750D which is quite taller and what not. Its a very good size if you have the junk to put in there.


----------



## Micdeez

Hey guys, so how are the owners of the Define R5 finding their cases after building in one?


----------



## DI360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyzzz*
> 
> Have anyone noticed how similar the define r4 and define s is? Dust filter pulls out at the back, only 120 mm fan mount in bottom, similar sidepanel mounting. R4 Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 464 x 523mm, Define S Case dimensions (WxHxD): 233 x 451 x 520mm. Anyway i could be completely be wandering out in the dark, but to me the define s feels like a modified r4. Just wanted to point that out.


Bottom fan mount it's 140mm too


----------



## Shaitan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Micdeez*
> 
> Hey guys, so how are the owners of the Define R5 finding their cases after building in one?


I just built my machine into a Define R5 last week (haven't posted pictures yet) and I love it. I switched from a Define R4 into a Corsair 780t. Then from that down to a node 304. I had always missed my R4 and now that the R5 is out, I couldn't resist.

Compared to the R4, to me it feels a bit more flimsy. It is still miles better than most other cases on the market, just doesn't feel as much like a tank as the R4 did. It is however much more quiet than the R4 with the same hardware. I think they made a really good move with the way they modified the front panel. Also I like the fact that you can now switch the door to open from either side. I have removed the optical bay and moved the hard drive cage up there to give more airflow to the other components which is a great feature. I also like the fact that the grommets next to the motherboard are now slightly angled. That makes working with USB 3.0 connections that are on that side of the motherboard much easier.

All in all I love the case and don't see myself switching cases any time soon.


----------



## JackCY

The filter construction is better and if you use cages then those are more modular.
Otherwise you lose EATX support for EATX over certain size.
I don't see a change on front panel, same door with dampening only the side vents are a little bigger.
Same short feet. Loses vertical expansion slot in favor of stamped out grill.
Stamped grills all over the case, still








Same problematic dust covers that strip/break just like R4's one do.
The top is inset...

How much quieter is case A vs case B? Well it's proportional to the price paid difference, the more expensive the more quiet/better/more awesome the user perceives it to be. Other than that it's still a metal box with same vents, dampening, order, fans, so how much can it really be different in terms of noise? Nil.


----------



## Micdeez

Hey guys, I have officially joined the Fractal club!

See my new build log here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1574844/build-log-project-insidious-define-r5-white-z170-krait-6600k-gtx-980-hof


----------



## qvist

Is the Define S worth getting if i never gonna watercool? the R5 is almost 50€ more where i live. Lack of optical drives and fewer hdd places dont bother tho..


----------



## karkee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halfeatenwaffles*
> 
> Someone is a big fan of Malik's work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still, looks nice


Does anyone know where I can get such acryl plate for a fractal R5?


----------



## RnRollie

http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/ maybe
also, check out your local DIY store


----------



## Mopar63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> Is the Define S worth getting if i never gonna watercool? the R5 is almost 50€ more where i live. Lack of optical drives and fewer hdd places dont bother tho..


I think the Define S is a better buy than the Define R5. The open design means air flow will be much better and it comes in at a lower cost. If you do not need the optical drives or extra HD spacers then the S is the better choice.

I personally am waiting for a Define S done in an mATX design.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Love my Design S, even if you're air cooling in it, it'll be better than the R5 as its more open as stated above. If you have no need for the optical bay or more than 3 hdds and 2 ssds then go with the S.


----------



## incog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mopar63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> Is the Define S worth getting if i never gonna watercool? the R5 is almost 50€ more where i live. Lack of optical drives and fewer hdd places dont bother tho..
> 
> 
> 
> I think the Define S is a better buy than the Define R5. The open design means air flow will be much better and it comes in at a lower cost. If you do not need the optical drives or extra HD spacers then the S is the better choice.
> 
> I personally am waiting for a Define S done in an mATX design.
Click to expand...

I might pull the trigger on a Define S in mATX size.


----------



## qvist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *incog*
> 
> I might pull the trigger on a Define S in mATX size.


That would be like the perfect case imo, i dont know how long i could wait for a case like that tho..


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> Is the Define S worth getting if i never gonna watercool? the R5 is almost 50€ more where i live. Lack of optical drives and fewer hdd places dont bother tho..


I think Define S is even better for air cooling than water cooling since you can put the front intake fans in a direct air flow path to cpu cooler. Lack of fans for hdds is the only downside. But with a tiny bit of modding you can put a hdd cage at the bottom of the front.


----------



## Carebear

I'm looking at getting a Fractal Define S.

My only concern is how can I control all of my 3Pin Fans that I will be moving over? I will be losing my current fan controller because it sits in the Disk Drive of my Carbide 500R.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carebear*
> 
> I'm looking at getting a Fractal Define S.
> 
> My only concern is how can I control all of my 3Pin Fans that I will be moving over? I will be losing my current fan controller because it sits in the Disk Drive of my Carbide 500R.


If they are pwm fans get a Swiftech 8 way pwm fan hub. http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx

If they are 3 pin get a Phanteks fan hub. http://phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html

Both are molex or sata powered and plug into a pwm header on your motherboard and all fans connected to them can be controlled by your fan control software of choice, Speed fan Fan Xpert etc. They don't work too well with bios fan controls though. **They need to be plugged into a pwm header**


----------



## Sorphius

I know the Define S will fit a thin 420 on top and a 360 in front, but can anybody tell me if it will accommodate both together? I'm looking to build a loop for my CPU and two 980tis and am looking for something that will get me as much radiator space as possible in a mid-tower.


----------



## qvist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> I think Define S is even better for air cooling than water cooling since you can put the front intake fans in a direct air flow path to cpu cooler. Lack of fans for hdds is the only downside. But with a tiny bit of modding you can put a hdd cage at the bottom of the front.


Can't imagine my 5400rpm drives getting that hot, but thanks for your input!


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> Can't imagine my 5400rpm drives getting that hot, but thanks for your input!


My 5400rpm WD reds get pretty hot if I'm doing a big transfer and there's no fan on them. Given the high failure rates these days with huge capacity drives, I would never run hdds without fans. That's what keeps me from getting g the Define S right now.


----------



## Carebear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> If they are pwm fans get a Swiftech 8 way pwm fan hub. http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx
> 
> If they are 3 pin get a Phanteks fan hub. http://phanteks.com/PH-PWHUB.html
> 
> Both are molex or sata powered and plug into a pwm header on your motherboard and all fans connected to them can be controlled by your fan control software of choice, Speed fan Fan Xpert etc. They don't work too well with bios fan controls though. **They need to be plugged into a pwm header**


Absolutely brilliant, this is just what I needed. Thank you.


----------



## qvist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> My 5400rpm WD reds get pretty hot if I'm doing a big transfer and there's no fan on them. Given the high failure rates these days with huge capacity drives, I would never run hdds without fans. That's what keeps me from getting g the Define S right now.


My red do hardly go above 45C without fan in the 5.25'' bay


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> My red do hardly go above 45C without fan in the 5.25'' bay


I haven't seen my 3TB Red go above 41C and I've got it sandwiched pretty good in the 5.25" bay.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> My red do hardly go above 45C without fan in the 5.25'' bay


That's around where my reds will go without a fan, 45-48c range if doing a large transfer on a warm day. That's acceptable range but higher than I think is good. Imho you want to stay 30-40c. Recent white papers show that 45c is where failure rates begin to spike. Also, in a 5.25 bay, you've probably got a mesh cover in front of it? On the Define S those hdds will be sandwiched between metal sheets. I just do not like that setup.

I wonder if you can fit a drive cage from the Define R4 on to the fan mount in the bottom of the Define S.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I haven't seen my 3TB Red go above 41C and I've got it sandwiched pretty good in the 5.25" bay.


You're in Finland...


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I know the Define S will fit a thin 420 on top and a 360 in front, but can anybody tell me if it will accommodate both together? I'm looking to build a loop for my CPU and two 980tis and am looking for something that will get me as much radiator space as possible in a mid-tower.


This is the most radiator I have seen.

http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1284479


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> That's around where my reds will go without a fan, 45-48c range if doing a large transfer on a warm day. That's acceptable range but higher than I think is good. Imho you want to stay 30-40c. Recent white papers show that 45c is where failure rates begin to spike. Also, in a 5.25 bay, you've probably got a mesh cover in front of it? On the Define S those hdds will be sandwiched between metal sheets. I just do not like that setup.
> 
> I wonder if you can fit a drive cage from the Define R4 on to the fan mount in the bottom of the Define S.
> You're in Finland...


hurr durr. I don't keep my PC outside








I have the drive in the lower 5.25" bay, front of the bay is sealed with duct tape and the upper bay is occupied by my BD drive. I've got the drive sandwiched in there with foam from PSU packaging.
No direct airflow on the drive, only thing is the Slip Stream 120mm fan (800rpm) I have on the HR-02 Macho that might have a slight effect on the drive, shouldn't be much of an effect though..



It ain't pretty but it works.

Also, what white papers? Could you throw me a link? I'm genuinely interested.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> hurr durr. I don't keep my PC outside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the drive in the lower 5.25" bay, front of the bay is sealed with duct tape and the upper bay is occupied by my BD drive. I've got the drive sandwiched in there with foam from PSU packaging.
> No direct airflow on the drive, only thing is the Slip Stream 120mm fan (800rpm) I have on the HR-02 Macho that might have a slight effect on the drive, shouldn't be much of an effect though..
> 
> 
> 
> It ain't pretty but it works.
> 
> Also, what white papers? Could you throw me a link? I'm genuinely interested.


If you're not going over 41c with that setup, I'm guessing you don't do sustained transfers with it. Because I live in a mild climate where 30c is considered unbearably hot, and 20-25c is the norm year round, and without a fan during transfers that go 20+ minutes, my 5400rpm hdds will hit high 40s, and my 7200rpm fans will hit mid 50s.

As to the research, this is where it all starts, there's stuff that's come out since that claim the fail rates have increased as capacities have gone up. http://static.googleusercontent.com/media/research.google.com/en//archive/disk_failures.pdf

The key findings:

1. Hard disk temperatures higher than 45°C led to higher failure rates

2. Temperatures lower than 25°C led to higher failure rates as well

3. Aging hard disk drives (3 years and older) were much more prone to failure when their average temperatures were 40°C and higher

So that other guy who's getting 45c already with the hdds in a 5.25 bay, I would hesitate to put those hdds in that metal sandwich hdd holder in the Define S.

I like the Define S a lot, I'm seriously considering migrating my Enthoo Primo build to it. But if I did, I would go with just ssds in it and build a cheap small box to house my hdds. Because I'm going to stay in the 30-40c range with hdds, preferably 30-35c.


----------



## qvist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> So that other guy who's getting 45c already with the hdds in a 5.25 bay, I would hesitate to put those hdds in that metal sandwich hdd holder in the Define S.


Obviously i meant 35


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Found some sheet steel from an old project, decided to make a psu cover for my design S, not finished yet, might paint it sooner or later. Pump made it a little tricky.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> Obviously i meant 35


If 35c is the max you're hitting then yeah you don't need a fan, that temp will rise in the Define S hdd bracket probably but not enough to put you in 40c+ territory. I think my usage is probably heavier than most, I move large amounts of data around on a fairly regular basis, to balance that my environmental conditions are pc friendly. 22c ambient right now for example. Actually I probably overdo it. As of right now my hdd temps on my main pc after a cold boot are:



And those temps are too low. I wish there were a way to run fan curves based on hdd temps.

In general though, I think it's odd that folks stress cpu and gpu temps so much when heat related failure on those is extremely low, while they ignore hdd temps, where failure rates are obscene. I mean gpu vrms can go 100c easy and not fail for as long as you'd use a gpu but folks go nuts with the extreme performance thermal pads and water cooling to keep them at 50c. But keep a hdd at 45c-50c for the same period of time, that drive is probably going to die far sooner than you'd like.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> If 35c is the max you're hitting then yeah you don't need a fan, that temp will rise in the Define S hdd bracket probably but not enough to put you in 40c+ territory. I think my usage is probably heavier than most, I move large amounts of data around on a fairly regular basis, to balance that my environmental conditions are pc friendly. 22c ambient right now for example. Actually I probably overdo it. As of right now my hdd temps on my main pc after a cold boot are:
> 
> 
> 
> And those temps are too low. I wish there were a way to run fan curves based on hdd temps.
> 
> In general though, I think it's odd that folks stress cpu and gpu temps so much when heat related failure on those is extremely low, while they ignore hdd temps, where failure rates are obscene. I mean gpu vrms can go 100c easy and not fail for as long as you'd use a gpu but folks go nuts with the extreme performance thermal pads and water cooling to keep them at 50c. But keep a hdd at 45c-50c for the same period of time, that drive is probably going to die far sooner than you'd like.


Dont some of those external usb 3.5mm drives get pretty toasty?

I know one of my backup drives gets above 50c while its writing a few hundred gb. it is not connected very often so guess it doesnt hurt to much.


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> Dont some of those external usb 3.5mm drives get pretty toasty?
> 
> I know one of my backup drives gets above 50c while its writing a few hundred gb. it is not connected very often so guess it doesnt hurt to much.


Yeah those things hit mid to high 50s for me on big transfers. My external usb 3 drives die all the time, especially Seagates. I avoid them if at all possible now and when I do use them I move data in smaller chunks so the heat doesn't ramp up as much. I use a few usb 3 transporters when mobility is needed but generally for in household use I prefer to use an enclosure with a fan and pop some 3.5s in them.

Ehh I dunno, maybe I'm just paranoid, but I'd much rather lose a $250 cpu than lose a $200 hdd and have to locate and transfer over all the data. So I stress hdd temps a lot. Especially since I've never had a motherboard, cpu or gpu die on me, *ever,* Hdds though, I've lost more of those than I can recall.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

If its any help, I got a 1tb wd black mounted at the top in the design s, that's 36c and my sdds are around 35c mounted behind the mob tray area. (readings from speedfan).


----------



## JackCY

Define S, cats love it.



On the other hand it's a mutant child of R4 and R5 taking some stuff from R5 but keeping some bad from R4...
You still need to mod the bottom filter to be removable from front. etc.

HDDs I've never had issue with them cooking as long as you have at least one fan running in the case and they aren't sandwiched with no airflow around them. Sure if you run a busy file server you might want better cooling than that but for normal consumer and gamer user, HDD temperatures not an issue.

Currently my HDD and SSD behind front intake fans, 25-30C because until I run some drive intensive operations = benchmark or copy massive amount of data or massive amount of drive access. In such a case lets say 35-36Cish max. That's 10-15C above ambient.


----------



## qvist

Now just awaiting Fractal Design to release a mATX version . Define S Mini. That would be the best of both worlds.


----------



## JackCY

Buy Define S and cut it down yourself? Or get the older Define mini. It's just a metal box to me, vrooom vrooom, sparks flying. Warning, remove cat first.


----------



## elbeasto

Just got my replacement front panel for my Define S. The existing one has the mic and headphone jacks wired the wrong way.

I tested the new one outside the case before installing it because I had a feeling it would have the same problem.
Sure enough, headphone goes in mic jack and mic goes in headphone jack.

Fractal have obviously got a bad batch of front panels and don't want to spend any money buying new ones so are just installing flawed ones in cases and sending same bad parts out as replacements.

But I will pursue this until it is resolved..


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Just got my replacement front panel for my Define S. The existing one has the mic and headphone jacks wired the wrong way.
> 
> I tested the new one outside the case before installing it because I had a feeling it would have the same problem.
> Sure enough, headphone goes in mic jack and mic goes in headphone jack.
> 
> Fractal have obviously got a bad batch of front panels and don't want to spend any money buying new ones so are just installing flawed ones in cases and sending same bad parts out as replacements.
> 
> Avoid Fractal, they are devious and care little for quality.
> 
> But I will pursue this until it is resolved.
> They aren't getting away with this with me.


Mine was purchased just a few months back... one or two... anyways, come in just fine but not like I use those jacks anymore anyways. Got myself a Schiit Stack.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Micdeez*
> 
> Hey guys, so how are the owners of the Define R5 finding their cases after building in one?


It was great. I fit a huge air cooler, added more fans than I thought I needed blowing in low and slow exhausting air up and out.

It is quiet, even though my HDDs are not.

Cable management was great allowing me to hide everything on the back side.

I removed the larger HDD cage and have three spinners mounted.

I plan to move one of my noisy WD Caviar Black's to the extra 5 1/4 inch bay suspended by bungee cord.

I must be one of the old timers that still needs an optical drive.

In my case having the front of the case be "un-hinged is also a plus as there is not room for it to swing, but I can remove it entirely when I need the optical drive.


----------



## qvist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Buy Define S and cut it down yourself? Or get the older Define mini. It's just a metal box to me, vrooom vrooom, sparks flying. Warning, remove cat first.


I'm too poor to go about modding a 80€ case and eventually ******* it up


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elbeasto*
> 
> Avoid Fractal, they are devious and care little for quality.


I doubt its purposeful. The quality isn't the greatest, but for the price it is a great value.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I doubt its purposeful. The quality isn't the greatest, but for the price it is a great value.


^^
I'm not at all a fan of Fractal's build quality, but their form and function can't be beat for the price. I'd happily pay 2x as much for an identical case with better construction.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> ^^
> I'm not at all a fan of Fractal's build quality, but their form and function can't be beat for the price. I'd happily pay 2x as much for an identical case with better construction.


Agreed.


----------



## elbeasto

I regret typing that, it was a communication problem with support.
The issue is on it's way to being fixed.

And yeah - the design is just so good for water cooling out of the box. Very happy with that.


----------



## JackCY

There are more expensive and better quality cases from other companies. Though the prices can be 4x as much too but you get a semi custom case.


----------



## alienware

Hey guys....im in the process of buying the fractal design node 804 casing...but im kind of not sure about which graphic card i should go for since there are a few size constraints. Im planning to get a gtx 980ti...fractal design says case can accomodate a gpu no longer than 11.4 inches...now if i keep this in mind then im only left with Evga SC+ AC2.0+ 980ti whereas i want to go for gigabyte gaming g1 which is 15.9 inches. What i want to know that would the gigabyte one fit in any possible way? Like if we remove front fans or via any other means?

Been searching for a build with 980ti in this case and havent found one as yet. Sorry if this has already been asked before. Thanks


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienware*
> 
> Hey guys....im in the process of buying the fractal design node 804 casing...but im kind of not sure about which graphic card i should go for since there are a few size constraints. Im planning to get a gtx 980ti...fractal design says case can accomodate a gpu no longer than 11.4 inches...now if i keep this in mind then im only left with Evga SC+ AC2.0+ 980ti whereas i want to go for gigabyte gaming g1 which is 15.9 inches. What i want to know that would the gigabyte one fit in any possible way? Like if we remove front fans or via any other means?
> 
> Been searching for a build with 980ti in this case and havent found one as yet. Sorry if this has already been asked before. Thanks


Pretty much any two-fan GPU should work. I don't know a whole lot about the Gaming g1, but IIRC it's on a custom PCB so even replacing the cooler isn't likely to make a difference.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienware*
> 
> Hey guys....im in the process of buying the fractal design node 804 casing...but im kind of not sure about which graphic card i should go for since there are a few size constraints. Im planning to get a gtx 980ti...fractal design says case can accomodate a gpu no longer than 11.4 inches...now if i keep this in mind then im only left with Evga SC+ AC2.0+ 980ti whereas i want to go for gigabyte gaming g1 which is 15.9 inches. What i want to know that would the gigabyte one fit in any possible way? Like if we remove front fans or via any other means?
> 
> Been searching for a build with 980ti in this case and havent found one as yet. Sorry if this has already been asked before. Thanks


If you don't have a second intake fan then you can fit up to 12.59" GPU's. But do mind there's also the MSI 980Ti Gaming which is only 10.6" long.
http://www.techpowerup.com/gpudb/2724/geforce-gtx-980-ti.html
Quote:


> Graphics card compatibility:
> Graphics cards up to 320mm (12.59") in length.
> Graphics cards up to 290mm (11.41") in length may be installed if a fan is installed in the lower position in the front.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alienware*
> 
> Hey guys....im in the process of buying the fractal design node 804 casing...but im kind of not sure about which graphic card i should go for since there are a few size constraints. Im planning to get a gtx 980ti...fractal design says case can accomodate a gpu no longer than 11.4 inches...now if i keep this in mind then im only left with Evga SC+ AC2.0+ 980ti whereas i want to go for gigabyte gaming g1 which is 15.9 inches. What i want to know that would the gigabyte one fit in any possible way? Like if we remove front fans or via any other means?
> 
> Been searching for a build with 980ti in this case and havent found one as yet. Sorry if this has already been asked before. Thanks


~12.6"


The depth of the case is less than 15.9" so unless you are going to cut a hole in the front that is a no.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Anyone here willing to sell me their 3 moduvent covers in the name of science? I am going to try to vent them slightly with a laser cutter, but want to have an extra set in case something goes wrong.

It doesn't seem like they are sold separately, although I may have to email Fractal Design and ask.


----------



## Jyve

Just a small request please.

If anyone happens to own an arc mini (preferably an r2 but don't think it matters too much) and buys an EK predator 240 can you please let me know if and how it fits.

By all the measurements it SHOULD fit but I've heard that it doesn't. If an h240x fits the predator should fit easily.

I'm hoping it's only a matter of the fan screws not lining up right. If this is the case then I can just use some of the fan vents to screw it in.


----------



## fyzzz

So my define s might come next week, can't wait


----------



## fyzzz

My define s with window arrived today and i tried for fun if the side panel would fit on my r4 and it does! I can however not scew down the thumbscrews, but still fits like a glove.


----------



## HalongPort

Can anyone help me not to hate my new Define S?









I'm coming from a Midgard and besides the great airflow and space I'm not really impressed with the new case.

My HDDs are getting really hot, going above 40°C until nearly 50°C.
They were quiet in my old case, but in my Define S they are vibrating and are so much louder.
SSDs going up to 45°C behind the motherboard tray.

It's cold right now here, 20°C ambient temperature and I don't want to know temperatures in sommer.

The temperature of my GPU is nice, it's cooler, but my CPU is going from 60°C to nearly 68-70°C under full load.
When I remove the top vents, temps are getting better, but there is no top dust filter.

The noise level didn't change. Both, Midgard (Noisblocker fans) and Define S (stock fans) are very quiet.

I guess it's not the case for me and I think this soundproof material on the side and top panels are useless.

Please help me not to refund this case. How can I solve my problems?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HalongPort*
> 
> Can anyone help me not to hate my new Define S?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm coming from a Midgard and besides the great airflow and space I'm not really impressed with the new case.
> 
> My HDDs are getting really hot, going above 40°C until nearly 50°C.
> They were quiet in my old case, but in my Define S they are vibrating and are so much louder.
> SSDs going up to 45°C behind the motherboard tray.
> 
> It's cold right now here, 20°C ambient temperature and I don't want to know temperatures in sommer.
> 
> The temperature of my GPU is nice, it's cooler, but my CPU is going from 60°C to nearly 68-70°C under full load.
> When I remove the top vents, temps are getting better, but there is no top dust filter.
> 
> The noise level didn't change. Both, Midgard (Noisblocker fans) and Define S (stock fans) are very quiet.
> 
> I guess it's not the case for me and I think this soundproof material on the side and top panels are useless.
> 
> Please help me not to refund this case. How can I solve my problems?


Take the HDDs out of the case and put them in an external storage and see if that fixes all your problems. Re-check or get better thermal paste for your CPU.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Hey all, Just got myself a Define R5 and I was wondering if anyone here has a EKWB Predator 240 in the same case. I'm thinking about getting one and wanted to know how it fits.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Hey all, Just got myself a Define R5 and I was wondering if anyone here has a EKWB Predator 240 in the same case. I'm thinking about getting one and wanted to know how it fits.


I don't have a predator, but I have the R5 and can tell you it will fit easily in either the roof or, if you don't need the HDD bays, the front.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> I don't have a predator, but I have the R5 and can tell you it will fit easily in either the roof or, if you don't need the HDD bays, the front.


Thanks very much


----------



## Dreamliner

All you silly boys and your water sports.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Need a tip, I`ve got an R5 with 5960x and 3x 980s, the two on top is under water, third was recently added so that card is on air atm at least.

But can i improve the temps? goes to 77¤C on stock clock. Card is Evga 980 ACX SC.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Need a tip, I`ve got an R5 with 5960x and 3x 980s, the two on top is under water, third was recently added so that card is on air atm at least.
> 
> But can i improve the temps? goes to 77¤C on stock clock. Card is Evga 980 ACX SC.


Hows your airflow? If Yvette got two cards and a CPU on water I'd imagine you probably don't have much (any?) fresh air coming into the case. Try running it with the case open, and if that helps throw a fan into the side panel (provided you don't have the windowed version)


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Hows your airflow? If Yvette got two cards and a CPU on water I'd imagine you probably don't have much (any?) fresh air coming into the case. Try running it with the case open, and if that helps throw a fan into the side panel (provided you don't have the windowed version)


It`s pretty good actually. 2x 140mm fans at front, and 1 back, both intake. (NB Pro silent, run at 1500RPM or so, so they push a lot of air to say the least) and 6x NB eloops at top for exhaust trough radiator.

Also, a 120mm sp 120 fan blowing on my VRMs and cpu block. It gets hot when overclocking









Summary lol: Airflow is very good higher up in the case, bottom part with Gpu and psu is not that great honestly. Maybe a side intake will fix that. will try without a side panel tomorrow. I have the stock 140mm Fractal fan laying around that might be used.

I can take a crappy picture if you want that tho. ^^


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> It`s pretty good actually. 2x 140mm fans at front, and 1 back, both intake. (NB Pro silent, run at 1500RPM or so, so they push a lot of air to say the least) and 6x NB eloops at top for exhaust trough radiator.
> 
> Also, a 120mm sp 120 fan blowing on my VRMs and cpu block. It gets hot when overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Summary lol: Airflow is very good higher up in the case, bottom part with Gpu and psu is not that great honestly. Maybe a side intake will fix that. will try without a side panel tomorrow. I have the stock 140mm Fractal fan laying around that might be used.
> 
> I can take a crappy picture if you want that tho. ^^


Yeah, try with the case open and if that helps see about putting in the extra fan. It sounds like that area's a bit of a dead zone.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> Need a tip, I`ve got an R5 with 5960x and 3x 980s, the two on top is under water, third was recently added so that card is on air atm at least.
> 
> But can i improve the temps? goes to 77¤C on stock clock. Card is Evga 980 ACX SC.


I have 2 Noctua IndustrialPPC 140 mm fans in the front of the case and another 140mm on the side panel as an intake and the max I've seen on my MSI GTX 780 overclocked is 70.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> I have 2 Noctua IndustrialPPC 140 mm fans in the front of the case and another 140mm on the side panel as an intake and the max I've seen on my MSI GTX 780 overclocked is 70.


But do you have three cards? His issue is that he has three video cards and the only one not water cooled -- ergo the only one that NEEDS good airflow -- is in the doldrums at the bottom of his case.


----------



## lagittaja

Side exhaust _might_ work better than intake in your situation. You've got loads of intake and if you have the side fan intake air as well then it might just not help much at all.
The SC ACX card you have has the fins on the heatsink facing towards the side of the case. As the GPU fans draw air in they push it through the fins and then the fins guide the air upwards/downwards towards the side panel/motherboard. Having an exhaust fan on the side panel would pull that heated air straight out of the case. Instead an intake fan which would push against the airflow of the GPU cooler.
In essence, the lower front fan would push air towards the air cooled card, goes through the card and out the side vent.



I'd at least try both configurations and see which of them helps the most.


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Side exhaust _might_ work better than intake in your situation. You've got loads of intake and if you have the side fan intake air as well then it might just not help much at all.
> The SC ACX card you have has the fins on the heatsink facing towards the side of the case. As the GPU fans draw air in they push it through the fins and then the fins guide the air upwards/downwards towards the side panel/motherboard. Having an exhaust fan on the side panel would pull that heated air straight out of the case. Instead an intake fan which would push against the airflow of the GPU cooler.
> In essence, the lower front fan would push air towards the air cooled card, goes through the card and out the side vent.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd at least try both configurations and see which of them helps the most.


Awesome 1+ to both!

Will stick the orginal case fan for an exhaust, guess it will get the job done.

Thanks guys! Appreciate it!


----------



## Wovermars1996

Hey all, I was wondering if I can get help with case air flow with my Define R5?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Hey all, I was wondering if I can get help with case air flow with my Define R5?


Sure. What do you need to know?


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Sure. What do you need to know?


Thanks. I'm just trying to make sure I've got positive pressure. I currently have 2 140mm noctua industrialppc fans at running at 60% speed as an intake and 1 H75 with a 120mm Noctua industrialppc in push in the back as 1 exhaust and another 140mm noctua industrialppc on the side panel as an exhaust. Does this set up sound like positive pressure? Also When I have all 3 140mm fans as an intake, my case makes the sound of turbulent wind so I'm not sure what the issue is.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Thanks. I'm just trying to make sure I've got positive pressure. I currently have 2 140mm noctua industrialppc fans at running at 60% speed as an intake and 1 H75 with a 120mm Noctua industrialppc in push in the back as 1 exhaust and another 140mm noctua industrialppc on the side panel as an exhaust. Does this set up sound like positive pressure? Also When I have all 3 140mm fans as an intake, my case makes the sound of turbulent wind so I'm not sure what the issue is.


You're neutral if not slightly positive. The turbulence you heard with grew intakes was air leaking through the cracks in your case due to your excess of positive pressure. Sounds like you've got a decent balance now though.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> You're neutral if not slightly positive. The turbulence you heard with grew intakes was air leaking through the cracks in your case due to your excess of positive pressure. Sounds like you've got a decent balance now though.


Awesome. also I'll be changing my cooling setup in a few days. I'm going to have an EK Predator in the top of the case exhausting air and all the 140 mm fans intake air does this sound like it could get rid of the turbulence?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Awesome. also I'll be changing my cooling setup in a few days. I'm going to have an EK Predator in the top of the case exhausting air and all the 140 mm fans intake air does this sound like it could get rid of the turbulence?


There's only one way to find out.









FWIW, I have four 140mm fans as intake (two front and two bottom) with a 240mm rad as exhaust on top and a 140mm fan blowing out the back, and my airflow is great without any turbulence.


----------



## Vincent3

Either something's wrong with my Define S or EVGA GTX 970 SSC 2.0+ isn't supposed to fit in it. I used the standoffs and screws that came with the case, my mobo is Asus Z87 Deluxe and for the life of me I can't get the GPU to work inside the case. It does work fine in my S340, or when I build the setup on the table (using it like that to write this message). It seems it doesn't reach all the way to the bottom of the PCI-e slot, no matter how hard you try. That is also the reason why the VGA led lights up red and there is no signal. Never had an issue like this before... I'd understand if the case was damaged or the parts would be somehow modified out of the standard... Out of like 15 boots and 5 times of reinstalling the GPU, I got it to work once to watch some netflix, but the next day the GPU-MOBO connection was gone again and the led was on.









Solved, if GPU and MOBO are both screwed in properly, the HDMI will touch the metal on the back panel and cause short circuit...


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vincent3*
> 
> Either something's wrong with my Define S or EVGA GTX 970 SSC 2.0+ isn't supposed to fit in it. I used the standoffs and screws that came with the case, my mobo is Asus Z87 Deluxe and for the life of me I can't get the GPU to work inside the case. It does work fine in my S340, or when I build the setup on the table (using it like that to write this message). It seems it doesn't reach all the way to the bottom of the PCI-e slot, no matter how hard you try. That is also the reason why the VGA led lights up red and there is no signal. Never had an issue like this before... I'd understand if the case was damaged or the parts would be somehow modified out of the standard... Out of like 15 boots and 5 times of reinstalling the GPU, I got it to work once to watch some netflix, but the next day the GPU-MOBO connection was gone again and the led was on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solved, if GPU and MOBO are both screwed in properly, the HDMI will touch the metal on the back panel and cause short circuit...


Defective model maybe. Had no such issues with my case and card combo... and yeah all screwed in properly.


----------



## terminaldawn

I am debating between the Define S and the R5 for the build below. I will only have a SSD and a SSHD in the PC with no optical drive. Doing Air cooling with the ninja 4 (ignore the noctua, partpicker doesnt have the ninja in db). My main concern is drive noise in the Define S and overall noise. Can anyone comment on their experience between the two regarding noise?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yDWHyc

PS I have read many reviews on the two cases.. just looking for real world thoughts and comments







thanks!!!


----------



## lagittaja

I don't have a comment or experience with the Define S but about the storage.
If I were you... Bump up the SSD size and ditch the SSHD for HDD.
BX100 250GB from Crucial is only 16$ or 25% more for double the storage. More bonkers fast storage for games and applications.
DT01ACA300 from Toshiba is -2$ for 3TB off mass storage instead of 2TB of notoriously unreliable Seagate with pretty useless 7.8GB of cache.

So instead of having 120GB boot drive with room for couple of games after Windows and 2TB of mass storage you'd have 250GB boot drive with room for a lot more games with Windows and 3TB of mass storage. And that's only a 14.1$ investment.
GTA V PC gobbles up 60gigs, Far Cry 4 roughly 30, Witcher 3 a little under 25 and so on.


----------



## terminaldawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I don't have a comment or experience with the Define S but about the storage.
> If I were you... Bump up the SSD size and ditch the SSHD for HDD.
> BX100 250GB from Crucial is only 16$ or 25% more for double the storage. More bonkers fast storage for games and applications.
> DT01ACA300 from Toshiba is -2$ for 3TB off mass storage instead of 2TB of notoriously unreliable Seagate with pretty useless 7.8GB of cache.
> 
> So instead of having 120GB boot drive with room for couple of games after Windows and 2TB of mass storage you'd have 250GB boot drive with room for a lot more games with Windows and 3TB of mass storage. And that's only a 14.1$ investment.
> GTA V PC gobbles up 60gigs, Far Cry 4 roughly 30, Witcher 3 a little under 25 and so on.


Well... Let me explain what is happening here... Firstly this build is going in my living room to act as a console more or less. I really dont plan on doing anything else with this rig. Behind the scenes what I planned on doing was just using an 840 EVO 120 GB that I have laying around for my boot drive. I was using the 850 EVO as a bookmark for the build in PCPartPicker. I planned on just buying the SSHD to put all my games on. I am really concerned with speed and noise. I currently have about 500 GB of games on my main pc right now but I can clean that up quite a bit.. Maybe I just get the cheapest 500 GB SSD I can find for my games and also put in a 750 GB Western Digital Black I have laying around just for overflow. That may buy me enough time for when SSD prices drop and I can put a 2 TB in as the storage drive (a boy can dream). What are your thoughts on this approach? Any recommendations on a cheap SSD?

THANKS!!!

ps.. i have a drobo 5n with 10 TBs of storage so the only space I need is local for games...


----------



## Exoticheals

I still need to add some more 45s and a 240mm rad...but I figured it was post worthy.


----------



## terminaldawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terminaldawn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I don't have a comment or experience with the Define S but about the storage.
> If I were you... Bump up the SSD size and ditch the SSHD for HDD.
> BX100 250GB from Crucial is only 16$ or 25% more for double the storage. More bonkers fast storage for games and applications.
> DT01ACA300 from Toshiba is -2$ for 3TB off mass storage instead of 2TB of notoriously unreliable Seagate with pretty useless 7.8GB of cache.
> 
> So instead of having 120GB boot drive with room for couple of games after Windows and 2TB of mass storage you'd have 250GB boot drive with room for a lot more games with Windows and 3TB of mass storage. And that's only a 14.1$ investment.
> GTA V PC gobbles up 60gigs, Far Cry 4 roughly 30, Witcher 3 a little under 25 and so on.
> 
> 
> 
> Well... Let me explain what is happening here... Firstly this build is going in my living room to act as a console more or less. I really dont plan on doing anything else with this rig. Behind the scenes what I planned on doing was just using an 840 EVO 120 GB that I have laying around for my boot drive. I was using the 850 EVO as a bookmark for the build in PCPartPicker. I planned on just buying the SSHD to put all my games on. I am really concerned with speed and noise. I currently have about 500 GB of games on my main pc right now but I can clean that up quite a bit.. Maybe I just get the cheapest 500 GB SSD I can find for my games and also put in a 750 GB Western Digital Black I have laying around just for overflow. That may buy me enough time for when SSD prices drop and I can put a 2 TB in as the storage drive (a boy can dream). What are your thoughts on this approach? Any recommendations on a cheap SSD?
> 
> THANKS!!!
> 
> ps.. i have a drobo 5n with 10 TBs of storage so the only space I need is local for games...
Click to expand...

i went with a 500 gb 850 EVO... got sick of over analyzing it. All the parts ordered. Here is the final list. Only thing that is different is Scyth Ninja 4, not the Scythe mugen (Scythe Ninja is not in pc partpickers db).

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/terminaldawn/saved/BtJ9TW


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terminaldawn*
> 
> i went with a 500 gb 850 EVO... got sick of over analyzing it. All the parts ordered. Here is the final list. Only thing that is different is Scyth Ninja 4, not the Scythe mugen (Scythe Ninja is not in pc partpickers db).
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/user/terminaldawn/saved/BtJ9TW


Newegg has the 500GB 850 evo on sale for $150. Also a seasonic 660W platinum for $79 AR. I think the PSU is better than the 750 corsair but I'll defer to the PSU experts. (aka Shilka) http://www.overclock.net/t/1431929/psu-index-thread


----------



## Vincent3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Defective model maybe. Had no such issues with my case and card combo... and yeah all screwed in properly.


Well, it was easy to solve by using DVI instead. The next problem will be connecting TV via HDMI - probably need to restort to electrical tape...


----------



## Trinergy

Just got my Node 804 (Newegg $69.99+ Free Shipping) to replace the venerable Antec SX1030 (Circa 2002) my first real case I ever bought. Can't wait to put my hodge podge of drives in there and rebuild my server!


----------



## drummerxxx8

Does anybody know where to get the side panel for the r4 define these days? Google wasn't helpful. Mostly all are out of stock.


----------



## lurker2501

Just sharing my updates Define S build. Plan on adding a second 290 and do a hardline loop.


----------



## Dan-H

R5 Titanium on sale newegg shell shocker sale. $78.99 after $10 rebate. Free shipping.

Fractal Design Define R5 FD-CA-DEF-R5-TI Titanium Computer Case

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352050

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?sdtid=8177756


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drummerxxx8*
> 
> Does anybody know where to get the side panel for the r4 define these days? Google wasn't helpful. Mostly all are out of stock.


I think I heard someone say the Define S side panel is the same as the R4. I could be wrong but look into it.


----------



## Cavi

Any Node 804 users have experience with the Swiftech H220-X, or have any other AIO suggestions that aren't Corsair? Have had bad experiences with Corsair AIO's, and the Swiftech is at the top of my list. I'm just not too sure about that pump...


----------



## magicammo

I have a question I'm getting a fractal design arc mini R2 and I'm planning to take all the hard drive cages out plus the five and a quarter Bay and I was wondering for an HDD would I be able to put adhesive on the bottom of it and stick it to the bottom of the case so I don't have to use the hard drive cages?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicammo*
> 
> I have a question I'm getting a fractal design arc mini R2 and I'm planning to take all the hard drive cages out plus the five and a quarter Bay and I was wondering for an HDD would I be able to put adhesive on the bottom of it and stick it to the bottom of the case so I don't have to use the hard drive cages?


Shouldn't be a problem unless you plan to use the bottom fan slot.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Any suggestions for replacing the rear exhaust fan on the design s? I run a 360 rad in the front so a lot of heat is pumped into the case and the gp-140 doesn't move the air fast enough, closed top. Thinking maybe a 140mm nocuta air flow edition.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Any suggestions for replacing the rear exhaust fan on the design s? I run a 360 rad in the front so a lot of heat is pumped into the case and the gp-140 doesn't move the air fast enough, closed top. Thinking maybe a 140mm nocuta air flow edition.


I recommend Noctua industrialppc pwm fans. Make sure if you do go for one that you get a pwm version because the non pwm version isn't designed to run at lower rpms if you want it to be quiet.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Any suggestions for replacing the rear exhaust fan on the design s? I run a 360 rad in the front so a lot of heat is pumped into the case and the gp-140 doesn't move the air fast enough, closed top. Thinking maybe a 140mm nocuta air flow edition.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> I recommend Noctua industrialppc pwm fans. Make sure if you do go for one that you get a pwm version because the non pwm version isn't designed to run at lower rpms if you want it to be quiet.


^^

Very much this. I'd go for the 2000rpm Noctua 140mm industrial PWM. Its extremely quiet up until around 75%, blends in with the rest of the case, and moves a TON of air. You might also look into adding an intake fan on the bottom to bring in fresh air.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Ok thanks for the recommendation, I shall set my eyes on the industrial pwn fan then








The bottom fan slot is covered by my rad and pump unfortunately.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Ok thanks for the recommendation, I shall set my eyes on the industrial pwn fan then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom fan slot is covered by my rad and pump unfortunately.


Alright, but to be completely honest I think you're throwing good money after bad spending $30 on a fan to exhaust hot air without doing anything to bring in fresh air. No matter how many or what type of exhaust fans you add, your temps will only ever be as cool as the air coming in.

I'd suggest you consider rearranging things so that your rad exhausts out the top and you have fresh air coming through the front. If you,can do that, at the very least you need to open up one of the moduvents and set it to exhaust with the rear as intake.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Alright, but to be completely honest I think you're throwing good money after bad spending $30 on a fan to exhaust hot air without doing anything to bring in fresh air. No matter how many or what type of exhaust fans you add, your temps will only ever be as cool as the air coming in.
> 
> I'd suggest you consider rearranging things so that your rad exhausts out the top and you have fresh air coming through the front. If you,can do that, at the very least you need to open up one of the moduvents and set it to exhaust with the rear as intake.


Won't that simply take the rear's fresh intake air and immediately exhaust it out the top?


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Won't that simply take the rear's fresh intake air and immediately exhaust it out the top?


Probably some of it... but if you put the top exhaust fan in, say, the forward top position, it'll have some time to mix. But regardless, your best option by far is to find a way to get that radiator in the roof and suck fresh air in the front (or vice-versa).


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorphius*
> 
> Probably some of it... but if you put the top exhaust fan in, say, the forward top position, it'll have some time to mix. But regardless, your best option by far is to find a way to get that radiator in the roof and suck fresh air in the front (or vice-versa).


Yeah. I agree there. I guess in reading your post it sounded like you were directing him to use the furthest back moduvent but that could just be me reading that into it.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

The radiator is 80mm thick, in push pull, with one set of fans on the front of the case under the plastic front panel, so it can only go in the front. I don't want the top open as there will be more noise and it allows dust to settle into the rig from the top. Wanting a powerful exhaust fan to extract the hot air from the radiator as at the moment the hot air is just sitting in the case. If the top was filtered I would use my other 240mm rad as an exhaust in the roof.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> The radiator is 80mm thick, in push pull, with one set of fans on the front of the case under the plastic front panel, so it can only go in the front. I don't want the top open as there will be more noise and it allows dust to settle into the rig from the top. Wanting a powerful exhaust fan to extract the hot air from the radiator as at the moment the hot air is just sitting in the case. If the top was filtered I would use my other 240mm rad as an exhaust in the roof.


Well here's the thing. When you have positive pressure, which you do, the air WILL leave the case. Some will go through the rear grills, some will sneak out through the cracks between the modu-vent covers, etc... but it will go out. If you just want to help it leave a little faster and move yourself closer to neutral pressure, a stronger exhaust fan will be perfect. But don't expect it to lower your temperatures is all I'm saying. Your only incoming air will still be warmed by that radiator, and adding a stronger exhaust fan won't do anything to change that.


----------



## Exoticheals

Anyone have a picture of a Define S or R5 with 2 360 rads in it?

OR

Have a Define S or R5 with a 360 on top with 240 in front and 120 mounted somewhere?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exoticheals*
> 
> Anyone have a picture of a Define S or R5 with 2 360 rads in it?
> 
> OR
> 
> Have a Define S or R5 with a 360 on top with 240 in front and 120 mounted somewhere?


Any reason for the 120 rad?, not really going to make much of a difference.

I did have a 320 in the top and 240 in the front though when i was using the R5 as in system pic.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Yeah, it may not have much affect on overall temperature at all but it may help getting a bit more air flow over the motherboard and stop the case getting too warm. Not hoping for big temperature drops from it, just getting the hot air out asap haha


----------



## Exoticheals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Any reason for the 120 rad?, not really going to make much of a difference.


Just became addicted to watercooling as of late.


----------



## Exoticheals

I would love to add another AX 360 in the front of case


----------



## hawktulu98

So I just bought Define S case...have to say it's perfect (internal space, cooling option etc..) but my concern are HDD temps.
Spec:
i5 [email protected] 4600-> cooled by Kelvin S36
gigabyte gtx 970
4 HDD (1TB Samsung, 1TB WD green, 3TB WD green, Samsung Evo 850)

cooling set-up:
end and bottom 14cm fan as intake (to cool VRM around PC), Kelvin in front with fans as outtake (fans are inside case pushing air from case out). Next week I want to add GPU to kelvin loop.

But with this set-up, while playing Fifa my HDD temps were 46,46, 47C

Can it be that hot air from case is getting to HDDs?
If yes, probably once I will cool GPU with water there will be not that much hot air inside as it's now due lower GPU temps..
But I wouldn't expect to go temps under 43C


----------



## CC268

What do you guys think are the best case fans for the front?


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> What do you guys think are the best case fans for the front?


Once again I recommend Noctua IndustrialPPC 2000RPM PWM fans. I have 2 as an intake for my Define R5


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Once again I recommend Noctua IndustrialPPC 2000RPM PWM fans. I have 2 as an intake for my Define R5


I have three on my RX360 rad in the front, another two in the 240 rad in the top, i don't run them near 2000rpm mind you, 1100rpm at most.


----------



## CC268

So how do you guys have so many PWM headers I need your motherboard? I have only have 2...the other three are voltage only


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> So how do you guys have so many PWM headers I need your motherboard? I have only have 2...the other three are voltage only


Well my one of my pwm fan headers is controlling a EKWB Predator 360 so thats one and then I have one of these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/featured-products/modmytoys-4-pin-pwm-low-profile-power-distribution-pcb-8-way-block.html to control all of my case fans. If you do use one of those, make sure that the Amperage/wattage of the fans combined is able to be handled by the header.


----------



## CC268

Oh cool! I was just gonna do a splitter, but that looks better. So do you have to hook that up to the PSU some how or do you just hook it up to the PWM header on your motherboard and your good?

I have an MSI M7 - not sure what the specs are for amp/wattage of the header.


----------



## khemist

Yeah, i use a Swiiftech PWM splitter. http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter.aspx


----------



## CC268

That one is out of stock (also don't you lose speed control when using a molex connector like that? )







- I just don't know if one of my headers can handle 4 fans.

Also...is it necessary to have PWM for case fans? I understand for radiator fans...


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> That one is out of stock (also don't you lose speed control when using a molex connector like that? )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - I just don't know if one of my headers can handle 4 fans.
> 
> Also...is it necessary to have PWM for case fans? I understand for radiator fans...


I'm pretty sure that molex is strictly for powering the hub.


----------



## khemist

Whatever works for you, i used to use fan controllers always but when i went matx i started using software control and it is decent.

Yeah, molex for power and plug into cpu header for fan control.


----------



## Dan-H

After messing with speed control on the case fans for way, way, way to long, I eventually used the Fractal case provided three speed switch set to run on low to power three intake fans on the R5 (two front on the bottom and mid positions, one on the floor of the case in front of the PSU. I didn't check voltage but I'm guessing this is a simple 5v/7v/12v switch since it connects into a SATA connector.

On low the case fans are all but silent. my HDDs and my Cryorig fans at 770 RPM are louder.

someday maybe I might get a fan controller. I have the System controlling the Cryorig, and I added a fourth inlet on the side to blow onto the graphics card and add even more positive pressure. The fourth inlet is controlled by the system, and is set to idle at 350RPM unless the graphics card gets above 70C, then it spins up to add more cool air in from the side. By the time the graphics card hits 70C, I can start to hear the fans on it ever so slightly so a bump in the case fan is tolerable.

It isn't perfect but it was good enough and I needed to move onto other things.


----------



## CC268

Gotcha - I didn't realize it, but my x61 comes with a 4 fan splitter. I am just going to plug all my fans into that and then run a separate PWM splitter for my radiator fans.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Oh cool! I was just gonna do a splitter, but that looks better. So do you have to hook that up to the PSU some how or do you just hook it up to the PWM header on your motherboard and your good?
> 
> I have an MSI M7 - not sure what the specs are for amp/wattage of the header.


To use that particular splitter hub, you can either connect 9 fans and then use a sata power to make the fans run but like this they will all run at 100%, or you can connect 8 fans and then use a pwm cable that you can buy with it to hook up to a header on your motherboard to control the fans through the bios.
are you using a MSI Z170A-Gaming M7 ? I think the max would be the same for my motherboard which is 1 Amp and 12 watts for a header.


----------



## magicammo

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PLbjzy heres the part list im geting in about a month or so! what do you think!?


----------



## lapino

Any reason why you pick the i7 over the i5? For gaming performance difference is almost nil. Also, why such a small case? Just curious.


----------



## lagittaja

Not everyone only does gaming on their computer.
And having extra threads available helps with multitasking.

I'm gonna ask why not spring for a X99 build while you're at it? Especially if you don't need the integrated GPU and you also do something else on your computer besides gaming like streaming or encoding videos, video editing, running virtual machines and so on.
Price wise 5820K pretty much the same as an i7-6700K, you're already paying for DDR4 and X99 mATX boards aren't all that expensive, X99M Gaming 5 from Gigabyte if you want m.2 slots or the Asus X99M-WS if you want Intel LAN (dual).
Out of the box the 5820K is of course behind in single thread performance as the 6700K base/turbo clocks of 4.0/4.2Ghz compared to 3.3/3.6Ghz of the 5820K.
And the integrated heat spreader being soldered to the chip is another huge bonus of the high end platform on Intel when you're overclocking, no issues getting the heat out of the chip and no need to delid your CPU and destroy your warranty if you wanna improve the thermals on these main stream chips..


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> To use that particular splitter hub, you can either connect 9 fans and then use a sata power to make the fans run but like this they will all run at 100%, or you can connect 8 fans and then use a pwm cable that you can buy with it to hook up to a header on your motherboard to control the fans through the bios.
> are you using a MSI Z170A-Gaming M7 ? I think the max would be the same for my motherboard which is 1 Amp and 12 watts for a header.


Yes I have the M7 - I think I will play it safe and run two fans per header. The Fractal HF-14s I bought are 0.3A a piece.

So I mean what is the point of an 8 fan hub if you can really only run 1-4ish fans on a single header anyways?


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Yes I have the M7 - I think I will play it safe and run two fans per header. The Fractal HF-14s I bought are 0.3A a piece.
> 
> So I mean what is the point of an 8 fan hub if you can really only run 1-4ish fans on a single header anyways?


Some fans have lower ratings and some headers can power more fans. I can run 10 Noctua IndustrialPPC fans off of one header on my motherboard


----------



## CC268

Wow...impressive..I wish I knew if I could run 4 fans off one header. I would like to run at least 3, but some people seem to be leery about it.


----------



## lapino

CC268, I've been experimenting with my MSI GTX980Ti to get it more silent, since I found the stock fan way too loud once temps reach over 70°C. Is this also the case with you? Also thinking about upgrading my system to almost the same specs as yours. But damn that MSI is loud for me (got an Accelero IV on it now, but that's so big it's really getting in the way for other stuff or SLI).


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapino*
> 
> CC268, I've been experimenting with my MSI GTX980Ti to get it more silent, since I found the stock fan way too loud once temps reach over 70°C. Is this also the case with you? Also thinking about upgrading my system to almost the same specs as yours. But damn that MSI is loud for me (got an Accelero IV on it now, but that's so big it's really getting in the way for other stuff or SLI).


Hmm...I haven't found my fans to be THAT loud even at 100% - but I guess loud is a relative term...what is loud for you may not be loud to me. I haven't needed to run my fans at 100% at any time yet other than for benchmarking though. Overall I find my fans to be fairly quiet.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicammo*
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/PLbjzy heres the part list im geting in about a month or so! what do you think!?


If you can afford to, I would upsize the SSD to at least a 500GB. Only about $70 more when on sale compared to on sale price of the 250GB.

500GB should allow you to get "most" if not all of your programs and data stored on the an SSD for not a lot of money.

edit: and where are you planning to install those five extra fans?


----------



## Rockrz

Does anyone know where to get a larger side window for the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 w/ Window?

Just thought it'd be cooler to have a larger window... you know, so I can impress the ladies or win the lottery er whatever.









If nobody sells this, how hard is it to cut out a big hole and rivet some plexiglas in to make my own?


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockrz*
> 
> Does anyone know where to get a larger side window for the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 w/ Window?
> 
> Just thought it'd be cooler to have a larger window... you know, so I can impress the ladies or win the lottery er whatever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If nobody sells this, how hard is it to cut out a big hole and rivet some plexiglas in to make my own?


Perhaps you could ask Bill Owen about this


----------



## Fast93bird

Rejoining this group. In addition to my 2 year old HTPC in a Node 304, I'm building a X99 setup in a Node 804 now.


----------



## Rockrz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Perhaps you could ask Bill Owen about this


I wouldn't know who that is.

I may just take an large sheet of plexiglass and cut off the ends of the metal cover and rivet them to the plexiglass so the entire cover becomes a large window

I just need to find some black rivets...


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockrz*
> 
> I wouldn't know who that is.
> 
> I may just take an large sheet of plexiglass and cut off the ends of the metal cover and rivet them to the plexiglass so the entire cover becomes a large window
> 
> I just need to find some black rivets...


----------



## Rockrz

His window is too small... I like my idea of making the entire side into a window,

I saw that done somewhere and it looks pretty cool... and it doesn't look ghetto


----------



## CC268

What are your guys' opinions on using be quiet! Silent Wings 2 fans my Kraken x61? They aren't technically SP fans, but they are quiet. Otherwise I will plan to use Fractal HP-14s


----------



## SclerosiS

Hi, you can measure the side panel and cut a sheet of plexiglass and replace it with it. You also need to measure how thick the plexi should be. Mine is 2mm. Its attached to the case with magnetic strip which is glued to the sheet of plexi. Hope i helped you.


----------



## CC268

If I am putting 3 intake fans in the front, 1 in the rear, and have my Kraken x61 mounted up top...would it be beneficial to put a 120mm fan on the bottom of the case as well? I am thinking it might actually mess up the airflow from the front fans and it would actually push the hot air back onto my 980TI.

What do you guys think?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockrz*
> 
> His window is too small... I like my idea of making the entire side into a window,
> 
> I saw that done somewhere and it looks pretty cool... and it doesn't look ghetto


I do just like sclerosis said. I cut a piece of plexi and glued strips of magnetic tape along each side. Don't rely on the sticky side of the magnetic tape as it'll not last.

I used black electrical tape along the edges as the bubbles on the glue side of the tape are ugly. Not sure how think the plexi I used was but it is a bit thicker then the chassis so I'll probably find some better suited and do it over.

Some poor cell pics of my arc mini


----------



## Rockrz

That's exactly what I saw somewhere and it looks really cool to have the entire side of the case where you can see in...

The only thing is, the one I saw the guy used screws and hand tightened them which is probably what I'll do... if there are some screw holes available. I'll get this worked on once I get some time off work.

BTW, can you buy plexiglass and places like Home Depot or Lowes?


----------



## Jyve

No screw holes that I know of. Probably have to drill. Yeah, Lowe's and HD both.

If you're gonna screw in you might think about tempered glass.


----------



## Rockrz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> No screw holes that I know of. Probably have to drill. Yeah, Lowe's and HD both.
> 
> If you're gonna screw in you might think about tempered glass.


Nah, I'll just use plexiglass since drilling holes in actual glass can be tricky.

If there aren't already screw holes present on the side to use, then I'll have to use magnetic tape or if the case is made out of aluminum I could always use aluminum magnets


----------



## Devildog83

I don't need them and don't know what I am going to do with them but I just picked up the Define R5 and an Asus Z97 Pro Wifi AC for $50. cash. I think that's a pretty good deal. The case is immaculate and the board just has a issue with intermittent Asmedia usb 3.0 in the rear. It has Intel USB 3 also so it's not a big deal and it came with a card reader that has 4x USB 3.0 anyways.


----------



## lurker2501

What riven size does the Fractal Arc case series use? Anybody knows?


----------



## dreamsINdigital

Got my Define S set up today, it's lovely! Then I realized the front panel audio jacks are reversed, like numerous others I've read with this issue. It's a small issue, but disappointing nonetheless and not the quality I'd expect from Fractal Design. Created a support ticket; hopefully they'll fix it soon.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Mines like that, its odd but it works so I'm not bothered personally.


----------



## dreamsINdigital

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Mines like that, its odd but it works so I'm not bothered personally.


If you think it's worth the effort, you can email them and they'll send you some sort of adapter or replacement part for free.


----------



## smithydan

Fractal users, is there a parts store outside of the European continent or one that ships out the continent?


----------



## Devildog83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Fractal users, is there a parts store outside of the European continent or one that ships out the continent?


https://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=All+Categories&que=%2522fractal+design%2522

As far as I know this is the only place outside of Germany.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devildog83*
> 
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=All+Categories&que=%2522fractal+design%2522
> 
> As far as I know this is the only place outside of Germany.


Ah, thanks. Will check it out.


----------



## CC268

Anyone know if they will ever sell black PCI slot covers for the Define S?


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Anyone know if they will ever sell black PCI slot covers for the Define S?


I'm not sure if they ever will but if you want to change it from white to black, you could just use plastidip.


----------



## Sorphius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> I'm not sure if they ever will but if you want to change it from white to black, you could just use plastidip.


^^

Plastidip is $8.00/can... Get a can of black and a can of glossifier and there you go.

Not to mention its plastidip, so if you dont like it or change your mind later, you can just peel it off.


----------



## CC268

Does it look good though? I am pretty picky about making sure things look "professional".


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Does it look good though? I am pretty picky about making sure things look "professional".


plasti dip looks just like paint once you've done a few coats so if you take your time it'll look great


----------



## Trinergy

Just finished moving my server from my 15 year old Antec SX1000 to the new Node 804. As crazy as I thought the wiring mess was going to be from 11 hard drives, and flotsam of power and data cables it came out pretty clean. I used two sata power 4 port splitters and realigned the connectors to the layout of the cage and added a 5th connector for powering the fan controller. Three sets of SATA data cables wrapped in bundles worked really well. The Noctua fan 150mm fan fit inside the case although on this mb the memory is pushing against. PICS under Callisto in my sig. Reflashed a Dell PERC H200 RAID controller to LSi/Avago SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) HBA to get 8 ports on PCIe x8. Added a Inateck KT4006 so I could use the USB 3.0 ports.

Newest goal will be to see in Windows 10 can stream XB1 games with the onboard GPU (HD 4200), Steam streaming works fine in Windows Server 2012. If that works I will use either Storage Spaces or Stablebit's Drivepool to create one big volume from all the disks. If Windows 10 doesn't work out I will wait for Window Server 2016 Essentials. Going to see if I can hit 4Ghz. The noctua fan seems to keep the CPU chill while being ultra quiet even at full speed.


----------



## Harrywang

My fractal arc midi r2 is on the way and I'm going to be upgrading from a haf 912. Can't wait to set it up!

Do you guys have any recommended air configurations? I heard the stock fans are pretty terrible. I'll probably replace them with some noctua a-14s. I want to go for max air cooling.

Probably be using 2x front, 1x bottom and only 1 exhaust at the back. Don't think I'm going to install anything at the top.

Do I need a good exhaust fan or are the stock fans good enough? I know you need good static pressure intake fans.

Also I only have 1 hard drive so I want to take out all the HDD cages out. How can I mount my HD? Can I just tape it onto the bottom of the case? lol. I don't want to spend extra money for adapters to place it on the optical drive.


----------



## Dimensive

Going to line my Arc Mini R2 with these beauts in a bit:


----------



## Sepesusi

Went from H440 to Define R5. Actually got the Blackout edition since I never liked the white back plates or hdd trays when I used to have a Define R4. I was deciding between Define S and R5 (well, initially I was looking for a matx case, but didn't find anything suitable), but in the end decided that R5 is probably better for me. Gotta say, R5 is the best case I've ever built in. I liked the H440's psu shroud that gives you a lot of leeway to do cable management (and the way it hides the psu is great), but to be honest in the end you won't win much if you think what you are doing. It took me probably over an hour to do the cable management with the R5, but it was pretty easy still (I wasn't exactly in a hurry by the way). Also bought another of those GP-14 to go on the front as an intake. Well, I guess that's about it.


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Does it look good though? I am pretty picky about making sure things look "professional".


If you take your time and do a couple of coats
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Went from H440 to Define R5. Actually got the Blackout edition since I never liked the white back plates or hdd trays when I used to have a Define R4. I was deciding between Define S and R5 (well, initially I was looking for a matx case, but didn't find anything suitable), but in the end decided that R5 is probably better for me. Gotta say, R5 is the best case I've ever built in. I liked the H440's psu shroud that gives you a lot of leeway to do cable management (and the way it hides the psu is great), but to be honest in the end you won't win much if you think what you are doing. It took me probably over an hour to do the cable management with the R5, but it was pretty easy still (I wasn't exactly in a hurry by the way). Also bought another of those GP-14 to go on the front as an intake. Well, I guess that's about it.


Welcome to the club. I switched from the H440 to a Define R5 as well.


----------



## lapino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sepesusi*
> 
> Went from H440 to Define R5. Actually got the Blackout edition since I never liked the white back plates or hdd trays when I used to have a Define R4. I was deciding between Define S and R5 (well, initially I was looking for a matx case, but didn't find anything suitable), but in the end decided that R5 is probably better for me. Gotta say, R5 is the best case I've ever built in. I liked the H440's psu shroud that gives you a lot of leeway to do cable management (and the way it hides the psu is great), but to be honest in the end you won't win much if you think what you are doing. It took me probably over an hour to do the cable management with the R5, but it was pretty easy still (I wasn't exactly in a hurry by the way). Also bought another of those GP-14 to go on the front as an intake. Well, I guess that's about it.


Also switched to the R5 with my new build (had an R4 before). Love the case, but one thing that keeps annoying me is the fact that sometimes the side panel (I have the blackout windowed version) rattles. I also had this with the R4. I have noticed that when I install the middle drive cage, this goes away but I cannot do this since my gpu is too large. Anyone else got this? My build : https://pcpartpicker.com/b/yynnTW


----------



## cadger

Here's my Core 500 build. Filled up quite nicely and just under 20 liters.




More pics here - http://pcpartpicker.com/b/4hzMnQ


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> Here's my Core 500 build. Filled up quite nicely and just under 20 liters.


All that gear is really packed in there. I heavily debated going with that case and getting a NAS for my drives. I chickened out and went with an R4 and everything in one box.









I also had some airflow concerns. Any thoughts on that?


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> All that gear is really packed in there. I heavily debated going with that case and getting a NAS for my drives. I chickened out and went with an R4 and everything in one box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also had some airflow concerns. Any thoughts on that?


The temps are actually fantastic for the size imo. Both the CPU and GPU have a decent OC. The CPU idles at 35 and maxes out at 73 in Prime95 and the GPU idles at 33 and maxes out at 61.

This review will go much more into the airflow then I could. http://www.silentpcreview.com/Fractal_Design_Core_500


----------



## LiranV

Is the Define S is still a good pick even for air-only cooled systems?


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiranV*
> 
> Is the Define S is still a good pick even for air-only cooled systems?


Absolutely...


----------



## volim

Is there an optimal way to set the define s up for air cooled only?


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *volim*
> 
> Is there an optimal way to set the define s up for air cooled only?


Well I guess it depends on your setup. Is your CPU air cooled as well or are you using an AIO at all? If you are using all air cooling then you could do (3) 140mm fans up top (exhausting), (3) 140mm fans in the front (instake) and (1) in the rear (exhausting). You could also put a 140mm or 120mm fan in the bottom (depending on if your PSU will allow it to fit - mine won't).

Truthfully there are A LOT of different ways you could do it...I would at least do the (3) intake fans up front though. I wouldn't say there is necessarily a right or wrong and as long as you put some fans in there the temperature differences between the different setups is going to be minimal.


----------



## Weber

Sweet spot: I think its two in front, one in back, leave top closed.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> Sweet spot: I think its two in front, one in back, leave top closed.


Personally, I think people make a bigger deal out of case airflow than it really is. I have had 3 different configurations in my Define S and you really can't tell much of a difference (if any at all). It is one thing to go from horrible airflow (no case fans) to good airflow (having case fans), but the actual differences between different case fan layouts is pretty minimal.

Also, the whole "positive pressure" and "negative pressure" tends to get blown out of proportion as well. I currently have (2) AF intake fans and (3) radiator exhaust fans (granted they are pushing through a radiator). You could argue that this is negative pressure...but I have great airflow, very little dust, and great temps.


----------



## smithydan

Lol, the copying continues. I do like the added psu shroud add on if wanted.


----------



## SonnyTubbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> I do like the added psu shroud add on if wanted.


Plus the top fan filter is sweet for me. That is my biggest complaint about the Define S, though I love everything else.


----------



## lagittaja

That front intake design. Even more restrictive side vents with slots AND I guess non-removable mesh and what's the freaking point of that removable front fan filter behind the door, the fans ain't gonna pull air through that unless you have the door open. What a lousy copy, good job Thermalfake.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonnyTubbs*
> 
> Plus the top fan filter is sweet for me. That is my biggest complaint about the Define S, though I love everything else.


Oh yeah that too.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Well, I haven't been here in years, but I finally decided to upgrade my Arc Mini that I built 3.5 years ago.

The PC still works great for me other than the 256 GB Corsair SSD, which started failing periodically several months ago. That is getting worse, so I have a new 1TB Samsung 850 Pro showing up tomorrow. Today I replaced my old MSI N570GTX with a new MSI 970 GTX Gaming.

Seems like my old i7 2600K is still decent enough, so I am still hanging on to my faithful Arc for awhile longer.


----------



## Weber

New Define S build. The processor is 65w i7-5775c, video 750ti. 4 fans in, one fan out through the 140 rad in back.
Top closed for sound suppress. Measured 61C, 1085 xtu at 4.0g.
Benchmarked 4.1g: http://hwbot.org/submission/3032169_


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> New Define S build. The processor is 65w i7-5775c, video 750ti. 4 fans in, one fan out through the 140 rad in back.
> Top closed for sound suppress. Measured 61C, 1085 xtu at 4.0g.
> Benchmarked 4.1g: http://hwbot.org/submission/3032169_


Nice. I'm going to try the same setup fan configuration once I get my case. Would you mind opening the top back open only to see if your temps would change at all? This way there is room for exhaust air to rise out.


----------



## Weber

The temperature varied enough that I have no results I'd report with certainty. XTU reported the same temp with back open as when back closed. But Hwinfo reported much cooler (4c) average with back open during those same xtu runs. Conversly (perversely), Prime95.28.7 was 0.5c cooler with back closed after 4 minutes blend. I think it would take climate control and averaging to get a result that meant something.


----------



## rapkct

Okay. I'm thinking of standardizing the fans in the R5 from the following:

2 x Fractal GP-14 (stock case fans) as front intakes
1 x Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM as bottom intake
1 x Noctua NF-A14 PWM as rear exhaust
Top covers remain closed
... to something that looked less... messy for my eyes. The problem is that sites like Newegg doesn't ship to Malaysia, which means that going with Fractal Venturis is not a choice so I'm left with nominally fans that I can get via retail channels (best option being Noctuas, but very pricey) or local forums. I'm thinking of switching all of the fans entirely to something that matches better with the case.

A local forumer is having around like 12 Phanteks PH-F140SPs in stock (they're not available via retail channels), would they be a good match for a 2 x front intake/1 x bottom intake/1 x rear exhaust configuration?


----------



## Weber

I've used PH-F140SPs in two builds as case and rad fans. They work. One made noise pushing into rad, which it should not have. Over all: leds







, good price, flexible, and good performance for me.


----------



## rapkct

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> I've used PH-F140SPs in two builds as case and rad fans. They work. One made noise pushing into rad, which it should not have. Over all: leds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , good price, flexible, and good performance for me.


Oh well, ordered four of them. If anything they cost me the price of two NF-A14 PWMs. Won't lose much if they don't work as intended since they can go into another case.


----------



## Ronayke

I want to buy a black window side panel for my Fractal Design R5. However, I cannot order it from the official spare parts website of Fractal Design: http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=487
I subscribed to get an update when they are in stock again. But when I got this alert, they were immediately sold out!








A lot of Australian websites have them in stock, but they don't ship to Germany!

Do you guys know where I can buy it?
I live in Germany.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ronayke*
> 
> I want to buy a black window side panel for my Fractal Design R5. However, I cannot order it from the official spare parts website of Fractal Design: http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=487
> I subscribed to get an update when they are in stock again. But when I got this alert, they were immediately sold out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of Australian websites have them in stock, but they don't ship to Germany!
> 
> Do you guys know where I can buy it?
> I live in Germany.


you could contact puget systems to see if they will ship to Germany.

https://www.pugetsystems.com/store/?cat=All+Categories&que=%22fractal+design%22


----------



## RnRollie

Caseking.de ? Amazon.de ?


----------



## qwerty drive

I just started installing a new build in a Define R5 case but i can't seem to install the extra front case fan at the bottom below the pre-installed 140mm fan behind the door. I am using Those 4 long black screws that are supplied with the case, the bottom screws seem to go in but the top screws do not seem to go through the holes. It's like the top holes need to be tapped out or something.

Anybody else had this issue.? you just put the fan in place and pop in the 4 long screws.. right.?


----------



## rapkct

Finally got the PH-F140SPs and installed them. At full tilt fan noise from blown air is quite obvious, it's probably because the bottom fan is blowing right onto the R9 280X (and the space was previously occupied by a fan with lower CFM and static pressure), while I can barely hear anything with the medium speed setting. I'll probably leave the high speed setting for gaming though.


----------



## qwerty drive

There Silent Series R3 140mm fans don't seem to fit in the front of the define 5 either.. there a tad thicker then the stock. I had to swap the Silent Series R3 with the stock back fan then move that to the front of the case


----------



## saxovtsmike

Define S / R5 Question.
What´s the maximum radiator size in both of them ?
Can you mount a slim 420 in the top AND a 360 in the front? Or is 360+360 the maximum ?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> Define S / R5 Question.
> What´s the maximum radiator size in both of them ?
> Can you mount a slim 420 in the top AND a 360 in the front? Or is 360+360 the maximum ?


People have got two 360s to fit but not all 360s will work and it depends on your loop setup. Some have used the grill holes to also mount a 360 further back as to give more room for the front. As far as a 420 and 360 I doubt.


----------



## Bumtsiki

Is it reasonable to replace Fractal GP14 with Be Quiet Pure Wings 2 fans? Spec are about the same, or can you reccoment something better with good price to noise/airflow ratio?


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bumtsiki*
> 
> Is it reasonable to replace Fractal GP14 with Be Quiet Pure Wings 2 fans? Spec are about the same, or can you reccoment something better with good price to noise/airflow ratio?


I actually had Silent Wings 2 fans 140mm in my Define S....I had (3) up front and (1) in the rear. I have since watercooled my GPU so I had to rearrange all my fans.

I ended up returned the Silent Wings and got the Fractal HF-14s. The Silent Wings are very quiet, even at 100%, but the amount of air they move sort of corresponds to that...meaning...they don't seem to move that much air haha. The HF-14s are of course louder at 100%, but they literally move twice as much air. Even at 100% they are pretty quiet, but I never run my case fans at 100% anyways.

I really felt like the HF-14s move a lot more air at 50% speed than even the Silent Wings 2 at 100% speed.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saxovtsmike*
> 
> Define S / R5 Question.
> What´s the maximum radiator size in both of them ?
> Can you mount a slim 420 in the top AND a 360 in the front? Or is 360+360 the maximum ?


A 360 rad in the front (any thickness) and a 240 rad up top is your best bet for the S. For the R5 it is probably the other way around.


----------



## MartinH

I bought a Define S in August and I'm really satisfied with it. Had decided to build my first water cooled rig and the Define S felt like a decent "novice builder" case.
Will replace the intake fans with somwthing more powerful, need more fresh air over the radiators. Current setup is a top 360 rad and a bottom 120 rad. Going to get a 140 rad to mount at the exhaust fan, need a little more cooling to be completely happy with my OC'ed temps.

Specs:
- Asus X99-A
- Intel i7 5820K @ 4.4GHz 1.245V
- Gigabyte GTX 980ti Gaming G1 @ 1450/1900
- 16gb HyperX DDR4 @ 2666MHz CL14 1.35V
- Corsair AX860
- Fractal Define S
- Acer Predator XB270HU
- Schiit modi + magni | Philips Fidelio x2




Window side panel on LED strip off


Window side panel on LED strip on


Window side panel off LED strip on

I don't fancy the dual tank - setup. I tried to use the EK DCP 2.2 without the EK-res, but I managed to make a crack in the outlet nozzle of the pump. This makes the pump leaky when used alone, but it's fine when connected to the EK-res. I'm planning on buying an Aquacomputer D5 to mount on the Aqualis XT PRO 450-reservoir, and get rid of the whole DCP 2.2 pump/tank.

What do you guys think?


----------



## mtrapuzz

I would have put that 360 up front. That is too much rad and fan up top.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> I would have put that 360 up front. That is too much rad and fan up top.


Why is that?


----------



## MartinH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> I would have put that 360 up front. That is too much rad and fan up top.


Why do you think that? Someone recommended me to have the rad up top to blow hot air out instead of blowing hot air in to the case? I could use top as intake, but that would make alot of dust issues :/


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MartinH*
> 
> Why do you think that? Someone recommended me to have the rad up top to blow hot air out instead of blowing hot air in to the case? I could use top as intake, but that would make alot of dust issues :/


Don't matter once the water reaches its delta. The way you have your case set up is fine and it looks good.

This is a good thread to join for water cooling. Hope it helps
http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/92600#post_24605738


----------



## st0necold

Here is my R5.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st0necold*
> 
> Here is my R5.


Why block off the rear exhaust?


----------



## st0necold

the filters don't really effect temps as long as I keep them clean.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MartinH*
> 
> Why do you think that? Someone recommended me to have the rad up top to blow hot air out instead of blowing hot air in to the case? I could use top as intake, but that would make alot of dust issues :/


It's painfully obvious that the front has more room for thicker radiators without blocking all your other components, and yes the front also has a better filtering system.

I like bringing in cold air through my radiator in the front also, but the main reason is the one I stated above.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Why is that?


So you don't have to take rads and fans out to get at things like ram or power connectors. He has flexible tubing which would help with this problem, but if you have a rigid tubing set-up as I do, this set-up is counter-productive.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st0necold*
> 
> the filters don't really effect temps as long as I keep them clean.


Wasn't looking at temps, just asking why filter an exhaust. My rear fan is always the cleanest.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Arc Mini rebuild, work in progress


----------



## smithydan

[Newegg] Fractal Design Define S w/ Window Side Panel - $60


----------



## RichardGTan

Sneak peek! Almost finish my first water cooling/case mod build in the Fractal Define S


----------



## mtrapuzz

What happened?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardGTan*
> 
> Sneak peek! Almost finish my first water cooling/case mod build in the Fractal Define S
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks really good
What colour fluid do you plan on using?
Where did you buy your riser cable from?


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st0necold*
> 
> Here is my R5.


Do you have a mesh grille over the front and do you actually find it helps? I get lots of dust in my case almost immediately with a stock setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardGTan*
> 
> Sneak peek! Almost finish my first water cooling/case mod build in the Fractal Define S


Holy crap, that looks incredible. For the most part I think watercooling is dumb because it really only affects temps at 100% load which most games do not even do and is only measurable in synthetic benchmarks; not to mention the risk of liquid, and finally, most watercooled builds sacrifice cooling of ancillary components like hard drives and ssd's to have a 'clean' look but your build looks quite incredible!


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Do you have a mesh grille over the front and do you actually find it helps? I get lots of dust in my case almost immediately with a stock setup.
> Holy crap, that looks incredible. For the most part I think watercooling is dumb because it really only affects temps at 100% load which most games do not even do and is only measurable in synthetic benchmarks; not to mention the risk of liquid, and finally, most watercooled builds sacrifice cooling of ancillary components like hard drives and ssd's to have a 'clean' look but your build looks quite incredible!


You are referring to CPU watercooling right? Cause water cooling a GPU makes a massive difference (like 30*C difference - not just benchmarking, but actual gaming). CPU cooling the difference is smaller for sure between air and water.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> You are referring to CPU watercooling right? Cause water cooling a GPU makes a massive difference (like 30*C difference - not just benchmarking, but actual gaming). CPU cooling the difference is smaller for sure between air and water.


Yeah, I dunno much about GPU cooling. I've got the Gigabite G1 Gaming Windforce fan thing, so it runs pretty good. I'm just too chicken to add water.


----------



## st0necold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Wasn't looking at temps, just asking why filter an exhaust. My rear fan is always the cleanest.


the filters came as a package. I only really wanted the top one but said what the hell.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Yeah, I dunno much about GPU cooling. I've got the Gigabite G1 Gaming Windforce fan thing, so it runs pretty good. I'm just too chicken to add water.


I agree that a custom loop is a lot of work and quite expensive (I would love to do one if I had money to blow), but with AIO coolers that are very good now a days water cooling is very safe IMO. I don't think I will ever do another air cooled GPU again...I think I will always water cool as it makes a huge difference in temps and allows your card to hold a nice steady boost clock, etc...


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> I agree that a custom loop is a lot of work and quite expensive (I would love to do one if I had money to blow), but with AIO coolers that are very good now a days water cooling is very safe IMO. I don't think I will ever do another air cooled GPU again...I think I will always water cool as it makes a huge difference in temps and allows your card to hold a nice steady boost clock, etc...


I'd rather spend the money I would on water for better components.









A GTX970 with a waterblock is about the same price as a GTX980 (plus you still have to get all the other water gear). I'd rather have a pair of 980's on air than 970's on water. Are there any benchmarks of an OC'd water 970 beating a OC'd air 980? No.

Getting water to overclock to the moon for an extra 5 FPS never made sense. Just skip the water and buy better gear.









Water is totally awesome for a 'money is no object' scenario, but it just doesn't practically make sense. Does look schmexy doe.


----------



## Harrywang

Wow. Seems like the topic of water vs air is becoming world war 3 over here in OC...









http://www.overclock.net/t/1581317/hey-airheads-theres-a-storm-brewing

I agree though. Why even bother with water cooling unless it's a hobby for you and you have a lot of money to blow. Air does just as good and MUCH less of a hassle at the fraction of the cost. I rather spend the extra money for other things.


----------



## Jflisk

Try cooling a FX9590 on Air. I did that is why I invested in water. The temperature difference is noticeable. Once you own the blocks and pumps they can be reconfigured for just about anything you decide to add or change. You will go from 70C to 90C down to 50-60C full load and under. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the components running cooler. The price it adds is anywhere from $300 and up. Decent starter kits start at $300. The water is usually just that distilled water 1.00 per gallon at any store. Add a little biocide 10.00 or so and your good to go.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I'd rather spend the money I would on water for better components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A GTX970 with a waterblock is about the same price as a GTX980 (plus you still have to get all the other water gear). I'd rather have a pair of 980's on air than 970's on water. Are there any benchmarks of an OC'd water 970 beating a OC'd air 980? No.
> 
> Getting water to overclock to the moon for an extra 5 FPS never made sense. Just skip the water and buy better gear.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Water is totally awesome for a 'money is no object' scenario, but it just doesn't practically make sense. Does look schmexy doe.


I completely agree about buying the best gear you can. I certainly would not buy watercooling for a 970 if you could buy the 980 without the watercooling. However, since I already have a 980TI (I mean there isn't anything better unless I went SLI) it made sense to water cool in my opinion. Now I am doing my watercooling with AIO which is a lot more affordable than a custom loop.

Oh and a lot of my decision (for the CPU cooler anyways) came from aesthetics...I am really picky about the look of my build and thought the AIO cooler looks a lot better...but I agree performance wise it isn't different than the high end air coolers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> Try cooling a FX9590 on Air. I did that is why I invested in water. The temperature difference is noticeable. Once you own the blocks and pumps they can be reconfigured for just about anything you decide to add or change. You will go from 70C to 90C down to 50-60C full load and under. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the components running cooler. The price it adds is anywhere from $300 and up. Decent starter kits start at $300. The water is usually just that distilled water 1.00 per gallon at any store. Add a little biocide 10.00 or so and your good to go.


I agree - sometimes I think I should have just went all out and bought custom loop stuff - especially since it can be reused, whereas once the AIO goes bad it is done for...but I still like my current setup.

I hated how my MSI 980TI was running at 75*C -80*C during gaming - on STOCK clocks. I can now run on OC settings at 30*C which will in the long run prevent some wear and tear in the long run. Now if you upgrade your video card every 2 years or sooner then who really cares what your temps are...but I plan on keeping my 980TI for as long as I can.


----------



## mackanz

Hi all,

Really tempting getting a slightly bigger case than my air 240. Just got a EK 240mm kit and a waterblock to my GTX 980 and i still wanna have a small case.
Core 1500? Arc mini?

Im looking at using two 240 radiators, one for the cpu and one for the gpu. Where would those be most effective in a mini or core 1500? Front and bottom, or front and top or top and bottom and use front as intakes?
Going to rip every cage out anyway.

3SSD's + an M.2
[email protected],3
EVGA GTX 980 that clocks pretty good on air, but temps in the air 240 is stopping for more im afraid.
Asrock Z97m

Cooling/silent goes before asthetics, but i like it tidy. Not afraid of a dremel either.

- EK-Supreme LTX UNI CSQ 2013
- radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 240
- water pump / reservoir combo unit: EK-DCP 2.2 X-RES incl. Pump
- compression fittings: EK-CSQ Fitting 16/10mm - G1/4 Nickel (6 pcs)
- EK-FC980 GTX GPU block
- 240 radiator, not decided which

I can switch one 240 for a 120mm i have around, an old Black Ice.

Suggestions and pictures please!

TIA

Marcus


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Wow. Seems like the topic of water vs air is becoming world war 3 over here in OC...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1581317/hey-airheads-theres-a-storm-brewing
> 
> I agree though. Why even bother with water cooling unless it's a hobby for you and you have a lot of money to blow. Air does just as good and MUCH less of a hassle at the fraction of the cost. I rather spend the extra money for other things.


lol. Looks about right. Water cooling does look cool, but even the closed loop guys spend even more money on Noctua fans. Honestly, even with GPUs, most significant gains can be obtained simply by reapplying thermal pasted, adjusting the fan curve and staying away from AMD. Lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> I hated how my MSI 980TI was running at 75*C -80*C during gaming - on STOCK clocks.


That's by design. The stock fan curves don't kick up until temps get to 70ish. I changed my default fan curve and on air I don't really get out of the upper 40's/low 50's when gaming.

I never meant to derail the thread into a air/water debate, but it just seemed like this thread turned into a Water/Design S thread.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I never meant to derail the thread into a air/water debate, but it just seemed like this thread turned into a Water/Design S thread.


That is because where the hype is and will be until the next new case comes out.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> That is because where the hype is and will be until the next new case comes out.


I suppose all the Airheads are busy using their PCs.


----------



## st0necold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Do you have a mesh grille over the front and do you actually find it helps? I get lots of dust in my case almost immediately with a stock setup.
> Holy crap, that looks incredible. For the most part I think watercooling is dumb because it really only affects temps at 100% load which most games do not even do and is only measurable in synthetic benchmarks; not to mention the risk of liquid, and finally, most watercooled builds sacrifice cooling of ancillary components like hard drives and ssd's to have a 'clean' look but your build looks quite incredible!


Bro the mesh one for the front does NOT FIT. I have no idea how they expect me to get it on there.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *st0necold*
> 
> Bro the mesh one for the front does NOT FIT. I have no idea how they expect me to get it on there.


Just a guess, but did you remove the Fractal grille?

Isn't the front the most important? The only intake you should have is front and maybe side...


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> lol. Looks about right. Water cooling does look cool, but even the closed loop guys spend even more money on Noctua fans. Honestly, even with GPUs, most significant gains can be obtained simply by reapplying thermal pasted, adjusting the fan curve and staying away from AMD. Lol.
> That's by design. The stock fan curves don't kick up until temps get to 70ish. I changed my default fan curve and on air I don't really get out of the upper 40's/low 50's when gaming.
> 
> I never meant to derail the thread into a air/water debate, but it just seemed like this thread turned into a Water/Design S thread.


It got to high 70s running at 100% fan speed and using whatever fan curve. Those are normal Temps for the MSI. Even the G1 980TI runs at high 60s to low 70s when gaming and that is considered to be one of the better air cooled cards.

Not sure if you have a 980TI...but if your running on 40s or 50s during gaming you must live in the north pole or have a magical card...or your playing mine craft or something haha


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> It got to high 70s running at 100% fan speed and using whatever fan curve. Those are normal Temps for the MSI. Even the G1 980TI runs at high 60s to low 70s when gaming and that is considered to be one of the better air cooled cards.
> 
> Not sure if you have a 980TI...but if your running on 40s or 50s during gaming you must live in the north pole or have a magical card...or your playing mine craft or something haha


Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming here. I'm sure the 980Ti runs a bit warmer.









Your right though, fan curves don't matter at all if running the fan at 100% or manually set it higher. I only mentioned that because it seems that fan speeds are related to temp and not GPU load; that sounds obvious I know, but if your card is only trying to keep temps under say, 95 degrees, that means it won't push it lower, even if it could. (Still doesn't make a difference if you manually set fan speed higher which is why watercoolers usually don't notice this phenomenon).

I'm all for watercooling if you already are buying top components and have the cheddar to burn; just don't forego better components to budget in water.


----------



## Jflisk

I have 2 Noctuas industrials on my top radiator and I can tell you if your going to buy fans the industrials are pretty good . Mine are 3000 RPM but I keep them no more then 2000 RPM. At 1900RPM and under you cannot hear them . I use and aquacomputer to Keep all the fans (6) under control in case and I don't hear them unless gaming the control the Aqua computer gives is unparalleled.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jflisk*
> 
> I have 2 Noctuas industrials on my top radiator and I can tell you if your going to buy fans the industrials are pretty good . Mine are 3000 RPM but I keep them no more then 2000 RPM. At 1900RPM and under you cannot hear them . I use and aquacomputer to Keep all the fans (6) under control in case and I don't hear them unless gaming the control the Aqua computer gives is unparalleled.


I have the 2000 rpm version and they are very audible at more than 1000rpm, i guess we all have different tolerances to noise.


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming here. I'm sure the 980Ti runs a bit warmer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your right though, fan curves don't matter at all if running the fan at 100% or manually set it higher. I only mentioned that because it seems that fan speeds are related to temp and not GPU load; that sounds obvious I know, but if your card is only trying to keep temps under say, 95 degrees, that means it won't push it lower, even if it could. (Still doesn't make a difference if you manually set fan speed higher which is why watercoolers usually don't notice this phenomenon).
> 
> I'm all for watercooling if you already are buying top components and have the cheddar to burn; just don't forego better components to budget in water.


Ahh alright makes sense with the 970...and yes I would completely agree with you...don't go water cooling if you can dump that cash into better components.


----------



## dragonhunter

Cam someone please point me on how to add, mod or buy a clear windows for the Define XL R2 Black Pearl? Thanks!!


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CC268*
> 
> Ahh alright makes sense with the 970...and yes I would completely agree with you...don't go water cooling if you can dump that cash into better components.


I like your setup a lot. Your two closed loop systems were like $250 bucks combined. Not a bad deal, a lot less expensive than I thought.









I love the way it looks, although my pc is currently the box under my desk that I occasionally kick, mostly by accident....mostly.









(I also sent you a PM about your headphone setup).


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I like your setup a lot. Your two closed loop systems were like $250 bucks combined. Not a bad deal, a lot less expensive than I thought.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the way it looks, although my pc is currently the box under my desk that I occasionally kick, mostly by accident....mostly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I also sent you a PM about your headphone setup).


Thanks! Yeah I spent a lot of time and too much money on it...but man I learned a lot in the process...it was fun for the most part.


----------



## Moodz

I am planning to buy a Define R5 and I want to use 5+ fans, but it says the included fan controller supports only 3 fans. Do I need to buy a separate controller to use more then 3 fans?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moodz*
> 
> I am planning to buy a Define R5 and I want to use 5+ fans, but it says the included fan controller supports only 3 fans. Do I need to buy a separate controller to use more then 3 fans?


You can only control 3 fans off of the switch in the front panel. I wouldn't use that switch. Buy a motherboard that can control the fans with PWM


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moodz*
> 
> I am planning to buy a Define R5 and I want to use 5+ fans, but it says the included fan controller supports only 3 fans. Do I need to buy a separate controller to use more then 3 fans?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> You can only control 3 fans off of the switch in the front panel. I wouldn't use that switch. Buy a motherboard that can control the fans with PWM


The case harness is a low-tech three voltage switch that taps into a SATA connector for power so the fans will run at 5V, 7V or 12V based on the three way switch on the front of the case.

Or don't use it at all and have the motherboard control the fan speeds which is a better approach.

That said, the fractal fans case are very quiet at 5V. I used the factory harness for a while until I dialed in my speed control using SpeedFan.


----------



## CC268

Hey guys,

I have a brand new in box NZXT Grid V2 fan controller (it is an extra that I don't need). If one of you is interested I will give it away for $15 (free shipping). I figure someone on here may be interested in one for their case.

I love mine BTW.

PM if your interested.


----------



## lurker2501

What kind of pop rivets are used on Fractal cases? Anybody knows?


----------



## Cozmo85

Are there any airflow intake problems with the Define S. Do the side openings provide enough air intake to keep up with 140mm fans?


----------



## CC268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Are there any airflow intake problems with the Define S. Do the side openings provide enough air intake to keep up with 140mm fans?


Seems like mine is good...it does hinder it (the filter probably hinders it more)...but it still has good airflow.


----------



## qvist

Just bought my Define S. One quick question. Is it necessary to occupy all 7 fan slots in a strictly air cooled setup (3 front intake, 3 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust) slightly negative favored airpressure. Or go for positive airpressure with top slots blocked off, and 3 front intakes and 1 rear exhaust.

Opinions?


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> Just bought my Define S. One quick question. Is it necessary to occupy all 7 fan slots in a strictly air cooled setup (3 front intake, 3 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust) slightly negative favored airpressure. Or go for positive airpressure with top slots blocked off, and 3 front intakes and 1 rear exhaust.
> 
> Opinions?


Definitely better to go with the 3 intake at the front and one exhaust and leave the top covered.


----------



## Kuudere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Definitely better to go with the 3 intake at the front and one exhaust and leave the top covered.


I run 3x 14cm intake fans and the same fan as a rear for a 4th with no issues. I wouldn't bother pulling the top panels off at all.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> Just bought my Define S. One quick question. Is it necessary to occupy all 7 fan slots in a strictly air cooled setup (3 front intake, 3 top exhaust, 1 rear exhaust) slightly negative favored airpressure. Or go for positive airpressure with top slots blocked off, and 3 front intakes and 1 rear exhaust.
> 
> Opinions?


Put the fans in to keep the air moving as long as you don't mind the extra noise. You aren't going to be making a pressure differential that will be large enough to do anything at idle fan speed unless you have a hermetically sealed case.


----------



## qwerty drive

Anyone know how to disconnect the define r5 internal usb 3.0 cable from the motherboard.? mine seems stuck, bending it up didn't seem to work. It's like stuck in the port

Same issue in the links below

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2422227/stuck-usb-motherboard-connection.html?565fbde85f1bb=reload


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/2ycve3/troubleshooting_cant_remove_usb_30_plug_from/%5B/URL


----------



## qvist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wovermars1996*
> 
> Definitely better to go with the 3 intake at the front and one exhaust and leave the top covered.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuudere*
> 
> I run 3x 14cm intake fans and the same fan as a rear for a 4th with no issues. I wouldn't bother pulling the top panels off at all.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Put the fans in to keep the air moving as long as you don't mind the extra noise. You aren't going to be making a pressure differential that will be large enough to do anything at idle fan speed unless you have a hermetically sealed case.


Thanks yall, leaving top on !


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> Anyone know how to disconnect the define r5 internal usb 3.0 cable from the motherboard.? mine seems stuck, bending it up didn't seem to work. It's like stuck in the port
> 
> Same issue in the links below
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2422227/stuck-usb-motherboard-connection.html?565fbde85f1bb=reload
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/2ycve3/troubleshooting_cant_remove_usb_30_plug_from/%5B/URL


Did you try pushing that little blue tab down with a small screw driver? Mine got stuck before also and when I got it out, the plastic header part came with it and I had to put it back on the board.


----------



## grinny

Did anyone try to fit Silver Arrow SB-E in a Define S?


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Did you try pushing that little blue tab down with a small screw driver? Mine got stuck before also and when I got it out, the plastic header part came with it and I had to put it back on the board.


I just kept moving it up and down while pulling on it for a bit and eventually it came out, Lucky the plastic header and pins on the motherboard seemed ok. The blue tab in the middle is just a guide for the plug it's those little clips either side that seem to get stuck


----------



## Leader

Anyone ever fitted 980 or 780/780 ti classified card on a define mini case. Im thinking is case width enough to accommodate classified card with power cables. Mini is i believe 2cm narrower than define r4.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> I just kept moving it up and down while pulling on it for a bit and eventually it came out, Lucky the plastic header and pins on the motherboard seemed ok. The blue tab in the middle is just a guide for the plug it's those little clips either side that seem to get stuck


Good to know.


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leader*
> 
> Anyone ever fitted 980 or 780/780 ti classified card on a define mini case. Im thinking is case width enough to accommodate classified card with power cables. Mini is i believe 2cm narrower than define r4.


Plenty of room. I have 290x with Water in the define mini. The height above the pci-e bracket is basically the same. You probably wont fit the side panel fan but no worries otherwise.


----------



## Leader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> Plenty of room. I have 290x with Water in the define mini. The height above the pci-e bracket is basically the same. You probably wont fit the side panel fan but no worries otherwise.


Alright thanks mate, i was littlebit worried because classified cards are so wide. No need for a side panel fan and i'm planning to get arc mini windowed side panel which fits for define mini also


----------



## BobiBolivia

Hello guys,

I will use this thread instead of starting new one.

I am currently utilizing MSI A88XM GAMING with A10-7850K APU, for me perfect everyday setup even for some gaming.
On top of it, CM Hyper 212+ EVO.

However I am not happy about case I have, Bitfenix Phenom M.
At first I thought it would be good for my setup, but I was quite disappointed by overall layout inside, not to mention cable management etc.
Basically I was so hyped for that case that I overlooked cons of it...

So I'd like to ask, where should I go with my next purchase (which will hopefully last as long as possible) ?

- Fractal Design Define R5
## A LOT of room for hard drives, fans, not sure about width (Phenom M to be 1 cm wider than R5)
- Fractal Design Define Mini
## more subtle on desktop, giving me some more room for 2.1 audio, not sure about CPU cooler height

Could I please kindly hear your opinions on this ?
I am inclined to get R5 because of "build quality" (and because I can get white version, like rest of my gear around).
But I am also eye-ing on Define Mini, because it looks a lot more subtle (but I am not sure about quality).

Thank you so much,
Bobi


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobiBolivia*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I will use this thread instead of starting new one.
> 
> I am currently utilizing MSI A88XM GAMING with A10-7850K APU, for me perfect everyday setup even for some gaming.
> On top of it, CM Hyper 212+ EVO.
> 
> However I am not happy about case I have, Bitfenix Phenom M.
> At first I thought it would be good for my setup, but I was quite disappointed by overall layout inside, not to mention cable management etc.
> Basically I was so hyped for that case that I overlooked cons of it...
> 
> So I'd like to ask, where should I go with my next purchase (which will hopefully last as long as possible) ?
> 
> - Fractal Design Define R5
> ## A LOT of room for hard drives, fans, not sure about width (Phenom M to be 1 cm wider than R5)
> - Fractal Design Define Mini
> ## more subtle on desktop, giving me some more room for 2.1 audio, not sure about CPU cooler height
> 
> Could I please kindly hear your opinions on this ?
> I am inclined to get R5 because of "build quality" (and because I can get white version, like rest of my gear around).
> But I am also eye-ing on Define Mini, because it looks a lot more subtle (but I am not sure about quality).
> 
> Thank you so much,
> Bobi


From experience... at the end of the day you will care more about the color of the case. If you cannot get anything other than the R5 in your desired color (white), then I think your questions is answered.

You can work around size restrictions and airflow, but color coordination will always annoy you everytime you see it. Just MO


----------



## BobiBolivia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rcoolb2002*
> 
> From experience... at the end of the day you will care more about the color of the case. If you cannot get anything other than the R5 in your desired color (white), then I think your questions is answered.
> 
> You can work around size restrictions and airflow, but color coordination will always annoy you everytime you see it. Just MO


Thank you for your opinion









Well, speaking of matching color of other stuff around, I don't think I would be that annoyed by having black case around white stuff.
But yeah, colour matching is always welcomed









However, speaking aside from colour and design, what would you prefer for mATX motherboard ?
I somewhere read that it's quite poor when trying to find case big enough for mATX without having to choose tower. I can't agree enough...

I am inclined to get R5 because of storage space (yes, I do plan to have inside a quite much storage), but any other alternatives (don't care about color) are welcomed.


----------



## mackanz

Could use some help with the Define S with radiator choices.
I currently have a 240mm older (10 years or so) Black ice in the front in push/pull and the 240mm in the top from the old EK 240 kit released 2 years ago or so.
Clearly, radiators today are a lot better, especially compared to the EK one, but it does its job for now.

Anyway, lets say i get low profile memory (this seems to be the culprit for thicker radiators in the top), can i fit the EK 360 Xe in both the front and the top to maximize the performance?

Or would it be better with a 280 on the front and the XE 360 in the top (if it fits)?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackanz*
> 
> Could use some help with the Define S with radiator choices.
> I currently have a 240mm older (10 years or so) Black ice in the front in push/pull and the 240mm in the top from the old EK 240 kit released 2 years ago or so.
> Clearly, radiators today are a lot better, especially compared to the EK one, but it does its job for now.
> 
> Anyway, lets say i get low profile memory (this seems to be the culprit for thicker radiators in the top), can i fit the EK 360 Xe in both the front and the top to maximize the performance?
> 
> Or would it be better with a 280 on the front and the XE 360 in the top (if it fits)?


Not sure if this will help or not since I am too lazy right now to look measurements. But in my system I got the XSPC AX360 at the top with Corsair SP rad fans and even with low profile memory I don't think I would fit anything bigger than that there.



I understand the photo is not that great but yeah cellphone and what not. But as you can see there its right on top of about the halfway point in the width of those dominators. But maybe someone else will have a better explanation of why it can or can not.


----------



## Hollywood

Hey Amazing Raisins,

I am about to purchase a second case for a mixture of LCS, with possible full LCS down the line. It needs to be ATX and spacious.
After much deliberation I've narrowed this down to Define S or Suppressor F51 from ThermalTake. Each have some pros and cons.

I'll be starting with an AIO type cooler for the CPU and the first thing I noted was that the Define S cannot 240mm (or larger) bottom mount the radiator. The Suppressor F51 can.
However that might be a moot point because all of the AIO I've seen haven't cable length long enough to reach the bottom. In most of these cases, they barely reach the front.

This is disappointing because I had my heart set on a bottom mounted radiator setup, allowing the front air flow to be unrestricted and the top free for normal exhaust.

Also with the Suppressor F51 I cannot see if you can mount any reservoir on the back panel like you can with the Define S. You could put it on the floor, but that's a waste of space when you could just suspend it. Additionally the Define S seems to have a fair amount of space at the front so you could arrange push pull (all fans and rad inside behind the front filter) and still fit in a reservoir tube. With the Suppressor, I don't think it will make it.

Could any one comment to this, have you found an AIO with sufficient tubing length? And also any other similar case suggestions?
If I have to go with front mount, I would do push pull with everything on the inside of the front fan filter. Based on experience with the Define S, best AIO cooler suggestion? Kraken X61 looks to be both a good performer and acceptable noise levels. Nepton 240 was kind of a let down and the new Predator 240 from EK is a bit pricey.

Having said that, I still have an old Apogee GTX block that can be converted to fit my motherboard for about a fiver. I have a TT rad/pump combo and a 360 radiator out of a TT Kandalf case from back in the day. Additionally I have a Koolance Exo II lying around (wonder if I could pull the rad out of that).

The thing with open loop systems that frustrates me, is maintenance. Once you plug it all in, it's a ***** to work with. It's been years since I did any proper LCS, so maybe fittings are more easier to work with, but I'd only go back to open loop if I had a guaranteed way to stop the liquid flow when I disconnected cables.


----------



## mackanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Not sure if this will help or not since I am too lazy right now to look measurements. But in my system I got the XSPC AX360 at the top with Corsair SP rad fans and even with low profile memory I don't think I would fit anything bigger than that there.
> 
> 
> 
> I understand the photo is not that great but yeah cellphone and what not. But as you can see there its right on top of about the halfway point in the width of those dominators. But maybe someone else will have a better explanation of why it can or can not.


Brilliant info, thanks!

I'll see if t he sports kit from Crucial is short enough to go under a thick radiator. With your current radiator in the top, can you fit a 360 in the front too or is it to tall and interferes with your top rad with fans?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackanz*
> 
> Brilliant info, thanks!
> 
> I'll see if t he sports kit from Crucial is short enough to go under a thick radiator. With your current radiator in the top, can you fit a 360 in the front too or is it to tall and interferes with your top rad with fans?


Way back before I got it, I remember a guy posting a picture where he managed two 360 but it looked crowded and he had to move one of them a bit... don't quite remember very well.

I decided towards a 360 and a 240. Is much cleaner and easy to build around. And its plenty cooling power for about anything a normal builder could throw at it... unless you planning on going 3 sli with a crazy over the top oc...

Feel free to check the build in my sig... more pictures there of my build if it helps you visualize any better.


----------



## mackanz

Beautiful rig sir! I sport a pair of JBL's too next to the screen









Here is a picture of how close the top radiator is to the ram, which is an old pair of vengeance with high heatspreaders. In between those sticks is a pair of sport from Crucial, pretty low profile.

The small picture is a crop of crop from a phone, so might not be very good quality.




Apart from that, the rig consists of:

Asrock Z97 OC Formula matx
4670k @4400 1,4V
EVGA SC GTX 980 @ 1580/8050 1,275 V


----------



## m3tpe

Just picked up the white case.
I know most of you probably seen many pics of it, but i'll post anyways.











Waiting for my parts to arrive.


----------



## BobiBolivia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3tpe*
> 
> Just picked up the white case.
> I know most of you probably seen many pics of it, but i'll post anyways.
> 
> <<< PICS DELETED >>>
> 
> Waiting for my parts to arrive.


Hi there,

Just a question - do you have by any chance mATX motherboard, which you can put inside and take a photo of it ?
I'd like to see it somewhat "in scale" - still can't decide if Define Mini or R5...


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BobiBolivia*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Just a question - do you have by any chance mATX motherboard, which you can put inside and take a photo of it ?
> I'd like to see it somewhat "in scale" - still can't decide if Define Mini or R5...


https://imageshack.com/i/eykVtD6rj

My old setup with G1.sniper mATX.


----------



## BobiBolivia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> <<< PIC DELETED >>>
> 
> My old setup with G1.sniper mATX.


Thank you so much, @khemist ! R5 it is then


----------



## Leader

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eykVtD6rj
> 
> My old setup with G1.sniper mATX.


Wow those colors look very good. I had no idea green, white and black can work so well together. Green motherboard light and white led fans ad bit of that "edge" without being tacky. Too bad gigabyte dropped green from assassin series mobos and changed it to a boring red. I have to post a picture of my setup today or tomorrow although it's boring black and white build.


----------



## m3tpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BobiBolivia*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Just a question - do you have by any chance mATX motherboard, which you can put inside and take a photo of it ?
> I'd like to see it somewhat "in scale" - still can't decide if Define Mini or R5...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eykVtD6rj
> 
> My old setup with G1.sniper mATX.
Click to expand...

nice.. Where did you get the cables for your psu?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3tpe*
> 
> nice.. Where did you get the cables for your psu?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk


Had them made by Pexon.


----------



## D13mass

My monster Fractal Design Define R4


I am sure after your pics with water cooling it looks terrible








It is quiet and cools well.


----------



## Leader

Here's few lazy pics of Define Mini, i didn't want to unhook and move it to a better spot to get pictures because i have Fallout 4 on pause







. Cable management is not nearly as good as some of you guys have.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Haven't visited the sub for a while, any update or product for filtered moduvents on design s? Is there a fan filter that could cover it all? A normal 420mm filter would leave the back mobo tray side exposed. Nice builds btw


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Haven't visited the sub for a while, any update or product for filtered moduvents on design s? Is there a fan filter that could cover it all? A normal 420mm filter would leave the back mobo tray side exposed. Nice builds btw


Nothing yet.


----------



## Hollywood

Ok transplanted system to the Define S...what a nightmare job this was.

Where to start :


Overall cable management isn't nice. They haven't really channelled the prewired case cables and the back doesn't have much space. The front however seems to have over an inch of unused space leading to the side panel. It would have been better used in the rear.
You're going to have to get creative, lucky and show some ingenuity in order to keep the majority of the floor vent/fan from being obstructed by cables.
The spacing behind the 3.5" drives is insufficient. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables and/or some SATA power leads because of their cable size.
The spacing behind the 2.5" drives is insufficient. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables.
The angled grommet(s) is positioned too close to the motherboard. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables.
The lack of any fan screws is disappointing.
The Velcro straps are not stitched to themselves meaning they can't be sinched tight properly, or they come loose too easily.
The case cables are not sheathed in any way.
The top moduvent panels are plastic (not metal like the rest of the case top) in case any potential buyers were wondering. The pads do block some of the noise, though tapping the plastic reveals a hollow sound.
The bottom floor flexes extremely easily. A gentle push with your index finger and it pops back and forth. This is exacerbated by the loose fitted air filter underneath which rattles easily.
The PSU mounting spot isn't particularly high off the floor of the case and it's four little pads which are thin and unimpressive. Logan said the same thing about the Define series - it's like someone just half heartedly plopped down some spare sticky pads that were lying around. It does however have a rubber strip around the PSU frame when mounted.
Overall the metal is cheap feeling and the front panel is literally a piece of plastic. It does zero to block noise. I suspect some Define S owners have removed it for better air intake, because why not, it serves no purpose otherwise.

It took me almost three hours, between fighting with cables, positioning things, running around frantically going through boxes looking for all straight SATA data cables and general fittings as everything was tight. The previous CM5 case took about forty minutes, including cable management.

For someone who likes to be in and out of their case a lot, this was a very telling exercise.


----------



## mav451

That's not at all surprising. I think I knew this beforehand, as I had examined the R4/5 and S in Microcenter many times.
Fractal cases are cheap - there's no way getting around it. Regarding cables - I read review beforehand and ordered tons of straight-line cables and straight SATA-power extension cables from China (so I got a 'stash' now). In that respect, some diligence on your part probably could have prevented that haha.

But getting back to build quality:
There's a big reason I had my Lian Li for so long - ease of use. Damn easy to get into, yeah it's all aluminum, looks and feels great. No, it didn't have your modern quality of life things (rear-mounted SSDs, removable optical drive cage, cable management), but I made it work for about 7 years.

Like you, it took a great deal of work to make my R5 usable (including cutting out exhaust fan grills, bottom grill, and PCI-e area grill).
Even with *all* the work I did, the case/GPU/CPU temps are basically unchanged. This is even with the crappy Thermalright X-120 fans I had installed over the last year (2 in, 2 out).

To me, the Fractal experience was a compromise and for a cheap price. I think in retrospect, I would buy Phanteks or soemthing else entirely, e.g. the MasterCase series from CM. Probably the first time I've looked at CM since their older Wave series.


----------



## Hollywood

You say that, however there is a general feeling amongst the community that Fractal always puts out quality products built with quality materials. Consider this..when people compare cost effective chassis, they draw comparisons or pit models like Define S and the Phanteks Pro M. And yet in each of those debates, someone says 'well if nothing else, the Define S is quality - it's Fractal.' It is to the point where even so called independent reviewers say the same. Sadly, nothing I found out in my experience, was discussed by Dmitry or maybe Paul of HTL. I can't believe they missed all these things I found within ten minutes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> Fractal cases are cheap - there's no way getting around it. Regarding cables - I read review beforehand and ordered tons of straight-line cables and straight SATA-power extension cables from China (so I got a 'stash' now). In that respect, some diligence on your part probably could have prevented that haha.


True brother, I should have thought of that - I guess I got too used to well planned and quality cases!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> But getting back to build quality:
> There's a big reason I had my Lian Li for so long - ease of use. Damn easy to get into, yeah it's all aluminum, looks and feels great. No, it didn't have your modern quality of life things (rear-mounted SSDs, removable optical drive cage, cable management), but I made it work for about 7 years.


Ya, although I am returning the CM5, it has some great features and when I have the two side by side (well the build alone was telling enough), you can really see and feel it.
The CM5 was definitely quicker to work with, which was good seeing as I came from an open bench.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> Like you, it took a great deal of work to make my R5 usable (including cutting out exhaust fan grills, bottom grill, and PCI-e area grill).
> Even with *all* the work I did, the case/GPU/CPU temps are basically unchanged. This is even with the crappy Thermalright X-120 fans I had installed over the last year (2 in, 2 out).


I haven't taken out any grills, nor have I punched any holes in that rear slot that they covered up. Did we ever find out why they did that? There's no mounting holes or brackets, so it can't be for a reservoir..

I have not opened the moduvent or the side panel vent. So far temperatures are the same as the CM5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> To me, the Fractal experience was a compromise and for a cheap price. I think in retrospect, I would buy Phanteks or soemthing else entirely, e.g. the MasterCase series from CM. Probably the first time I've looked at CM since their older Wave series.


I toyed with Phanteks Evolv for some time, however that PSU shroud was too restrictive and I didn't feel the case offered any thing of any particular interest - other than being a nice show case. For the price, there was more practical things out there. Before the Define S, I had ordered a Thermaltake F51, and cancelled it. Then a Define R5, then cancelled it.


----------



## mav451

Yeah I'm probably gonna stay on this for a bit - until there is a really compelling upgrade available.
As for Dmitry - his videos have incredible production value; so easy to want to buy a case after watching his reviews haha.

In this case, I should have trusted my gut and first-hand impression since these cases were available at Microcenter.

I remember an older fellow extolling the benefits of top exhaust when I was looking at the Define S haha.


----------



## brazilianloser

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollywood*
> 
> Ok transplanted system to the Define S...what a nightmare job this was.
> 
> Where to start :
> 
> 
> Overall cable management isn't nice. They haven't really channelled the prewired case cables and the back doesn't have much space. The front however seems to have over an inch of unused space leading to the side panel. It would have been better used in the rear.
> You're going to have to get creative, lucky and show some ingenuity in order to keep the majority of the floor vent/fan from being obstructed by cables.
> The spacing behind the 3.5" drives is insufficient. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables and/or some SATA power leads because of their cable size.
> The spacing behind the 2.5" drives is insufficient. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables.
> The angled grommet(s) is positioned too close to the motherboard. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables.
> The lack of any fan screws is disappointing.
> The Velcro straps are not stitched to themselves meaning they can't be sinched tight properly, or they come loose too easily.
> The case cables are not sheathed in any way.
> The top moduvent panels are plastic (not metal like the rest of the case top) in case any potential buyers were wondering. The pads do block some of the noise, though tapping the plastic reveals a hollow sound.
> The bottom floor flexes extremely easily. A gentle push with your index finger and it pops back and forth. This is exacerbated by the loose fitted air filter underneath which rattles easily.
> The PSU mounting spot isn't particularly high off the floor of the case and it's four little pads which are thin and unimpressive. Logan said the same thing about the Define series - it's like someone just half heartedly plopped down some spare sticky pads that were lying around. It does however have a rubber strip around the PSU frame when mounted.
> Overall the metal is cheap feeling and the front panel is literally a piece of plastic. It does zero to block noise. I suspect some Define S owners have removed it for better air intake, because why not, it serves no purpose otherwise.
> 
> It took me almost three hours, between fighting with cables, positioning things, running around frantically going through boxes looking for all straight SATA data cables and general fittings as everything was tight. The previous CM5 case took about forty minutes, including cable management.
> 
> For someone who likes to be in and out of their case a lot, this was a very telling exercise.






I kind of disagree with most of your initial points.
I found the back of the case to have plenty of space. If you look at my sig you will see that I have a lot of peripherals going on and all of them with single braided cables back there. Had no troubles routing everything properly.
And I could go on... but for the price of the Define S and what it offers I think you were expecting a Case Labs case. But hey to each their own opinion.


----------



## Hollywood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> 
> I kind of disagree with most of your initial points.
> I found the back of the case to have plenty of space. If you look at my sig you will see that I have a lot of peripherals going on and all of them with single braided cables back there. Had no troubles routing everything properly.
> And I could go on... but for the price of the Define S and what it offers I think you were expecting a Case Labs case. But hey to each their own opinion.


The things I found fault with are simply over sights, not a materials /cost/overhead issue. No one should have to pay Case Labs or Lian Li or Win D prices in order to have some company to put proper spacing where spacing should be. Or how about shifting the vent/fan mount at the bottom more towards the front so any PSU cables do not restrict the air flow? There's plenty of room as the front pump /res mount is unaffected.

Checked your picture, mine ended up better than yours. The problem was that I wasn't going for a professional exhibition look. I was just trying to fit every thing in! Fortunately I don't have many cable leads. Motherboard/CPU/two PCI E, two sata/molex and that's it.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollywood*
> 
> The things I found fault with are simply over sights, not a materials /cost/overhead issue. No one should have to pay Case Labs or Lian Li or Win D prices in order to have some company to put proper spacing where spacing should be. Or how about shifting the vent/fan mount at the bottom more towards the front so any PSU cables do not restrict the air flow? There's plenty of room as the front pump /res mount is unaffected.
> 
> Checked your picture, mine ended up better than yours. The problem was that I wasn't going for a professional exhibition look. I was just trying to fit every thing in! Fortunately I don't have many cable leads. Motherboard/CPU/two PCI E, two sata/molex and that's it.


Lets us see some pictures then. It sure would clearly show your points better than words.


----------



## Harrywang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollywood*
> 
> Ok transplanted system to the Define S...what a nightmare job this was.
> 
> Where to start :
> 
> 
> Overall cable management isn't nice. They haven't really channelled the prewired case cables and the back doesn't have much space. The front however seems to have over an inch of unused space leading to the side panel. It would have been better used in the rear.
> You're going to have to get creative, lucky and show some ingenuity in order to keep the majority of the floor vent/fan from being obstructed by cables.
> The spacing behind the 3.5" drives is insufficient. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables and/or some SATA power leads because of their cable size.
> The spacing behind the 2.5" drives is insufficient. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables.
> The angled grommet(s) is positioned too close to the motherboard. You cannot use L shaped SATA data cables.
> The lack of any fan screws is disappointing.
> The Velcro straps are not stitched to themselves meaning they can't be sinched tight properly, or they come loose too easily.
> The case cables are not sheathed in any way.
> The top moduvent panels are plastic (not metal like the rest of the case top) in case any potential buyers were wondering. The pads do block some of the noise, though tapping the plastic reveals a hollow sound.
> The bottom floor flexes extremely easily. A gentle push with your index finger and it pops back and forth. This is exacerbated by the loose fitted air filter underneath which rattles easily.
> The PSU mounting spot isn't particularly high off the floor of the case and it's four little pads which are thin and unimpressive. Logan said the same thing about the Define series - it's like someone just half heartedly plopped down some spare sticky pads that were lying around. It does however have a rubber strip around the PSU frame when mounted.
> Overall the metal is cheap feeling and the front panel is literally a piece of plastic. It does zero to block noise. I suspect some Define S owners have removed it for better air intake, because why not, it serves no purpose otherwise.
> 
> It took me almost three hours, between fighting with cables, positioning things, running around frantically going through boxes looking for all straight SATA data cables and general fittings as everything was tight. The previous CM5 case took about forty minutes, including cable management.
> 
> For someone who likes to be in and out of their case a lot, this was a very telling exercise.


Interesting. I already knew about the L shaped sata cables not fitting but luckily I don't have any of those lol. Tonight I will be putting out my mini review of the fractal define design S. Coming from a haf 912 it was a huge improvment in terms of air flow and such. I do agree with you about the bottom floor flexing. But it's not really a problem for me. Everything else about the case is very thought out though. Fractal and phanteks are probably the 2 best case company's for your average user.

Here is a sneak peek


----------



## Hollywood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Lets us see some pictures then. It sure would clearly show your points better than words.


Sure, will take a picture in the morning with some natural light.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harrywang*
> 
> Interesting. I already knew about the L shaped sata cables not fitting but luckily I don't have any of those lol. Tonight I will be putting out my mini review of the fractal define design S. Coming from a haf 912 it was a huge improvment in terms of air flow and such. I do agree with you about the bottom floor flexing. But it's not really a problem for me. Everything else about the case is very thought out though. Fractal and phanteks are probably the 2 best case company's for your average user.
> 
> Here is a sneak peek


Well, if your average user is capable of some serious cable management, and a high tolerance for frustration then ya.. I guess so


----------



## Jyve

I think their quality is also based off pricing. Comparing a fractal and a lian li isn't really fair as the lian li is way more expensive on the whole.

I don't have any experience with the define line of cases but I do have an arc mini r2 and have nothing but great things to say about it. Very solid. Not a lot of flex in the case. Plenty of room in the rear for cable management.

Really not fair to compare an $80 case to a ~$200 case.

I'm thinking about moving to a different case myself but more for a change of pace than any real dissatisfaction with the arc mini.


----------



## Hollywood

Agreed, the quality is noticeable ..as I said, even between the Define S and the CM5 is like night and day. However with the CM5, you are paying for quality and part of the 'modular' premium. I don't feel as I'm paying CM the difference in cost, for them being more intelligent about the practical features of their product.


----------



## rwarr

I am quite happy how this turned out. Though, I wish the side panel window on the Define R5 were a tad bigger.


----------



## kooziguy

Hey guys. I'm in the market for a Define S and planning to watercool. Does anyone have experience cramming two 360's or a 360 and 280 in there? I'm wondering what thickness and such too and would love some reference ideas before I begin my build!

KG


----------



## Wovermars1996

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kooziguy*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm in the market for a Define S and planning to watercool. Does anyone have experience cramming two 360's or a 360 and 280 in there? I'm wondering what thickness and such too and would love some reference ideas before I begin my build!
> 
> KG


Well I don't own a Define S but I do have a Define R5 and I have an EKWB Predator 360 in the top which is 68mm thick with the fans so you could go with a 45mm thick 360 in the top and in the front I would go with a 280mm but I'm not sure about the thickness.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

How about this http://www.demcifilter.com/p0564/Fractal-Design-R5-3-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx for a top filter on the design s? People on reddit says it should fit the design S, anyone confirm? Really want to add another 240/360 to my loop to go along with my monsta 360.

Here's some potato quality pics of my pc cause why not










My shoddly made psu cover haha, looks fine through the window though


----------



## Hollywood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Lets us see some pictures then. It sure would clearly show your points better than words.


No zip ties, no special cables - just whatever came in the box.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwarr*
> 
> 
> 
> I am quite happy how this turned out. Though, I wish the side panel window on the Define R5 were a tad bigger.


Maybe do what I did on my arc mini. Cut a piece of acrylic or plexiglass and attach magnetic tape around the edges. Worked out pretty well. I like the look though I wish the stuff didn't scratch so easily.

If you're feeling really frisky you could get a sheet of tempered glass cut to size.

I'd probably go this route if I wasn't thinking of a different case.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollywood*
> 
> No zip ties, no special cables - just whatever came in the box.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So since when this become a competition? I don't see anything special about that. Looks sub par at best being that you barely have any cables. Take an extra ten minutes and you should be able to clean that a big deal. But comparing that amount of wires to the amount I had to deal with??? Are you kidding me? I easily got about twice the mess to deal with it and I was able to deal with it without a problem, so still not seeing your point of the back of the case not having the appropriate space for wire management.

Don't like the case, then return it and get something else. Internet this days.


----------



## m3tpe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So since when this become a competition? I don't see anything special about that. Looks sub par at best being that you barely have any cables. Take an extra ten minutes and you should be able to clean that a big deal. But comparing that amount of wires to the amount I had to deal with??? Are you kidding me? I easily got about twice the mess to deal with it and I was able to deal with it without a problem, so still not seeing your point of the back of the case not having the appropriate space for wire management.
> 
> Don't like the case, then return it and get something else. Internet this days.


i'm looking at the pics and was confused at why he was even making such a big deal. oh well....


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3tpe*
> 
> i'm looking at the pics and was confused at why he was even making such a big deal. oh well....


No kidding if I only had that to deal with it... I would have been a happy man.


----------



## Hollywood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> So since when this become a competition?


Since you decided to think it was one?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> I don't see anything special about that. Looks sub par at best being that you barely have any cables.


Who claimed it was special?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> comparing that amount of wires to the amount I had to deal with??? Are you kidding me?
> I easily got about twice the mess to deal with it and I was able to deal with it without a problem, so still not seeing your point of the back of the case not having the appropriate space for wire management.


You sound bitter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Don't like the case, then return it and get something else. Internet this days.


Apologies, I wasn't aware I needed your permissions to make the decision to keep or return a product I purchased. I also wasn't aware people would get offended for making constructive criticism about a product in a forum thread dedicated to that product where people discuss that product, both good and bad.

You definitely sound bitter. As you say 'internet this days.'
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3tpe*
> 
> i'm looking at the pics and was confused at why he was even making such a big deal. oh well....


Unfortunately there's more to come.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Christ this is a overclocking and hardware forum not a tantrum forum.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> Christ this is a overclocking and hardware forum not a tantrum forum.



















Love how he broke up my post into sections to then counter attack... I am extremely bitter by the way. Just thought you should know.


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyways moving on to things that matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwarr*
> 
> 
> 
> I am quite happy how this turned out. Though, I wish the side panel window on the Define R5 were a tad bigger.


Very nice and clean my good sir. Got the right tone of red going on to match the build. Very nice curves too. Good job there.
Make a build for your sig with the specs so we may look upon thee.


----------



## Jyve

That's pretty standard for amount of room behind a mobo tray for cable management. In fact looks very similar to my arc mini minus the drive bays on the left. Mine's a rats nest but I'm still able to close the back with not a lot of force.

For my ssd's I used a 4 pin molex to 2 sata adapter and it worked like a charm. They aren't 90 degree bends but straight on.

Honestly it sounds like you're nitpicking an $80 case cuz it's not built like a $200 one.

Rwarr: that is freakin' awesome looking man. Good job. Wish I had the patience and coin for hard tubing.


----------



## Harrywang

He's comparing a 200$ case to a 80$ case. Then he uses 3 points to tell you that L shaped sata connectors don't work on this case. Seems like he's just nitpicking or finding a reason to hate it. Fractal and phanteks are the top 2 companys for the average consumer when it comes to cases. They give you pretty much everything that higher priced cases have. I don't know if you ever used a case under 150$ there all pretty much the same when it comes to cable management, sometimes even worst because a LOT of cases don't come with velcro straps.



My finished build. 90% done as I'm only missing 1 more wire for GPU pwm. Other then that it's pretty much done. I half assed it with the cable management as I'm going to be opening the case to add an extra wire in a couple days. I didn't even use any zip ties yet. Just stuck everything in.









The case was a complete breeze to work in. Comparing to my old case (haf 912) everything is made super easy and there is plenty of room at the back for cable management. The biggest thing was the noise. I'm idling 5-6c higher then ambient and with 5 fans I don't hear a single thing during idle OR load. The only thing I hear is my WD black HDD which I need to replace with an SSD lol.

I can't really find any cons with this case. The only thing maybe is the HD audio cable header. It didn't work at first but after fiddling around with it it just worked all of a sudden. Seems this is a common problem with fractal cases. The bottom fan is flimsy though like Hollywood said. This is just nitpicking though as I cut the grille off + I have a fan intake there so I don't see how this can create any problems.


----------



## Jyve

Prior to the molex to 2 sata I used angled connectors on my ssd's. They were tight but they worked.


----------



## m3tpe

I'm pretty pleased with the R5 case. Here's some pics


__
https://flic.kr/p/BZUd83


__
https://flic.kr/p/BZUd83


__
https://flic.kr/p/CaujYi


__
https://flic.kr/p/CaujYi


__
https://flic.kr/p/Bd6RNt


__
https://flic.kr/p/Bd6RNt


__
https://flic.kr/p/BZUGgY


__
https://flic.kr/p/BZUGgY


__
https://flic.kr/p/Bd6VJz


__
https://flic.kr/p/Bd6VJz


__
https://flic.kr/p/C3dFKi


__
https://flic.kr/p/C3dFKi


__
https://flic.kr/p/C3dH6V


__
https://flic.kr/p/C3dH6V


__
https://flic.kr/p/C8bTw3


__
https://flic.kr/p/C8bTw3


__
https://flic.kr/p/BZUzGA


__
https://flic.kr/p/BZUzGA


----------



## khemist

Nice pics!, i might rebuild with the R5 in the future,

One thing i don't like about the define s is the bottom fan filter comes out backwards.


----------



## JunkaDK

Hey man









Glad to see it fits. Alot of people say it doesn't fit.. and i'm getting the MB tomorrow.

Did you have to add some tape to the case or is the MB completely clear of the case where it arches?

/Junka


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreedyMuffin*
> 
> *BIG UPDATE!*
> 
> Both the ASUS X99 Rampage V Extreme & ASUS X99-E WS motherboards fit in the define R5 :=)
> 
> pics of the R5E http://www.diskusjon.no/uploads/monthly_03_2015/post-61603-0-70073400-1426982808.jpg


Hey man

Glad to see it fits. Alot of people say it doesn't fit.. and i'm getting the MB tomorrow.

Did you have to add some tape to the case or is the MB completely clear of the case where it arches?

/Junka


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Hey man
> 
> Glad to see it fits. Alot of people say it doesn't fit.. and i'm getting the MB tomorrow.
> 
> Did you have to add some tape to the case or is the MB completely clear of the case where it arches?
> 
> /Junka


Hey!

For him it was completely clear, it was the same for me. I`m using the WS board.
Have fun!


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Do you guys know if any company sells a window side panel for the Define Mini? Thanks!


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe-Gamer*
> 
> How about this http://www.demcifilter.com/p0564/Fractal-Design-R5-3-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx for a top filter on the design s? People on reddit says it should fit the design S, anyone confirm? Really want to add another 240/360 to my loop to go along with my monsta 360.
> 
> Here's some potato quality pics of my pc cause why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My shoddly made psu cover haha, looks fine through the window though


That will fit. I bought one but didn't like how it fit, because it doesn't sit down in the moduvent cavity but rather on top of the case.


----------



## Joe-Gamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> That will fit. I bought one but didn't like how it fit, because it doesn't sit down in the moduvent cavity but rather on top of the case.


Ah, I suppose it'll stop all the dust getting in then, shame the site wont ship to Jan 11th due to factory upgrades. I'll just have to wait


----------



## Danzle

Did someone try and use a 120/140mm Fan on the sidepanel of the Fractal Design Define R5 for cooling of a non-reference SLI/CF? Thinking about this case for a 980 Ti SLI (a pair of HerculeZ or MSI G6) on air.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzle*
> 
> Did someone try and use a 120/140mm Fan on the sidepanel of the Fractal Design Define R5 for cooling of a non-reference SLI/CF? Thinking about this case for a 980 Ti SLI (a pair of HerculeZ or MSI G6) on air.


I have a 140mm fan on the side panel of my R5. It clears a single MSI GTX 970 4G. It isn't SLI. Fan is set to intake and spins very slow unless GPU temp gets above 60C


----------



## siox69

A rig build for wifey

Fractal define S case
Msi z97 gaming 5 motherboard
I5 4690k processor
Seasonic x750 gold psu
Palit gtx 680

Watercooling parts:

Ek xtx 240 rad
Black ice nemesis gts 360 rad
Ek supremacy evo nickel-acetal
Ek 680 gpu block
Ek 4.0 pwm pump
170mm reservoir
90 degree Barrow fittings

Going acrylic.. This was done last night. Still need to purchase a set of ram before doing acrylic bending and installation.

Please forgive me for the low quality pics, wifey brought my cam on a out of town seminar


----------



## pcrevolution

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siox69*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A rig build for wifey
> 
> Fractal define S case
> Msi z97 gaming 5 motherboard
> I5 4690k processor
> Seasonic x750 gold psu
> Palit gtx 680
> 
> Watercooling parts:
> 
> Ek xtx 240 rad
> Black ice nemesis gts 360 rad
> Ek supremacy evo nickel-acetal
> Ek 680 gpu block
> Ek 4.0 pwm pump
> 170mm reservoir
> 90 degree Barrow fittings
> 
> Going acrylic.. This was done last night. Still need to purchase a set of ram before doing acrylic bending and installation.
> 
> Please forgive me for the low quality pics, wifey brought my cam on a out of town seminar






Very nice.

Deja vu for me when I saw your radiator set-up.


----------



## lapino

I noticed that when I use the top USB3 ports on my R5 my USB deviced tend to disconnect after a while. When I plug the devices directly into the back USB3 ports of my mainboard, I seem to have no issues. Is this a known problem? Strange thing is, only with the USB3 ports I get these 'usb device not recognized' errors, not with the USB2 ones.


----------



## m3tpe

One nitpicking thing that is bothering me.. The power led light is too bright for my room at night.

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m3tpe*
> 
> One nitpicking thing that is bothering me.. The power led light is too bright for my room at night.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk


Paint it with nail polish. Clearly don't overdo it, but you can make it quite darker if you do it right without making it not visible.


----------



## Ithanul

Well going to be getting a Define S here soon. Just wondering has anybody every tried modding one to take a EATX board?


----------



## lapino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapino*
> 
> I noticed that when I use the top USB3 ports on my R5 my USB deviced tend to disconnect after a while. When I plug the devices directly into the back USB3 ports of my mainboard, I seem to have no issues. Is this a known problem? Strange thing is, only with the USB3 ports I get these 'usb device not recognized' errors, not with the USB2 ones.


no one?


----------



## contay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapino*
> 
> no one?


Might be faulty usb3 module but most likely connetor to motherboard is not securely attached. Did you check it, twice?


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Well going to be getting a Define S here soon. Just wondering has anybody every tried modding one to take a EATX board?


Hmm i dunno if the S has the same curb as the R-series for cable management, but my RV5 e-atx card fits even though the curb is there. Its close to touching but it doesn't







Works like a charm


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Hmm i dunno if the S has the same *curb* as the R-series for cable management, but my RV5 e-atx card fits even though the curb is there. Its close to touching but it doesn't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Works like a charm


What part do you mean by the curb?


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> What part do you mean by the curb?


On the back plate in the R5 it curbs out where the cable holes start to make more room for cables behind the plate. The backplate in the R4 was completely flat and would easily fit an e-ATX board. Its much more tight in the R5, but it fits







even though it does not officially









Edit: From looking at pictures of the S it looks like it has the same curb as the R5, so i guess it will fit.. but its tight


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> On the back plate in the R5 it curbs out where the cable holes start to make more room for cables behind the plate. The backplate in the R4 was completely flat and would easily fit an e-ATX board. Its much more tight in the R5, but it fits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> even though it does not officially
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: From looking at pictures of the S it looks like it has the same curb as the R5, so i guess it will fit.. but its tight


Alright, will find out when the case comes in. Did you have to drill in any holes to mount the EATX? Or the mount holes the same as ATX?


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Alright, will find out when the case comes in. Did you have to drill in any holes to mount the EATX? Or the mount holes the same as ATX?


No drilling, all the holes are there already


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> No drilling, all the holes are there already


Sweet, many thanks on the info.









Edit: Case showed up super early. Darn, I'm impressed. Think I have a new case maker I like more than Cooler Master. Now to wait for the CPU, EATX mobo, and RAM to show up.


----------



## siox69

Done bending and installing the acrylic tubes..


----------



## lapino

Always liked the look of these setups compared to normal rubber tubing. How does this work exactly? Been thinking about getting a EKWB Predator with added watercooling for my GTX980Ti. This will result in needing more tubing and connector/plugs or whatever these are called. Any info on what I'd need exactly? (send via pm to keep thread clean pls)


----------



## SanderH

I've been stuck deciding between the Define S and and the CM MasterCase Pro 5 for weeks now.

The Define S looks like a great case, especially for the price. The only thing which worries me is in the lack airflow from the front as the front panel is completely locked down, aside from some venting at the sides. Especially if you compare it to the MasterCase which has a mesh that's just completely open for the 3 front fans to intake air.

Just to make a (very bad) comparison: it looks like the MasterCase is able to breathe freely whilst the Define S has duct tape over its mouth, but with some holes at the sides.

Any of you guys who've debated this "issue" of the Define S?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> I've been stuck deciding between the Define S and and the CM MasterCase Pro 5 for weeks now.
> 
> The Define S looks like a great case, especially for the price. The only thing which worries me is in the lack airflow from the front as the front panel is completely locked down, aside from some venting at the sides. Especially if you compare it to the MasterCase which has a mesh that's just completely open for the 3 front fans to intake air.
> 
> Just to make a (very bad) comparison: it looks like the MasterCase is able to breathe freely whilst the Define S has duct tape over its mouth, but with some holes at the sides.
> 
> Any of you guys who've debated this "issue" of the Define S?


I just got a Define S, seriously you open all those fans area I think you have darn good amount of air. Thing takes 120 or 140 fans all over the place for a total of eight fans. For a mid size, that pretty darn nuts.







The front has side vents and a opening at the bottom of the panel. For the price, I am very impressed with the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lapino*
> 
> Always liked the look of these setups compared to normal rubber tubing. How does this work exactly? Been thinking about getting a EKWB Predator with added watercooling for my GTX980Ti. This will result in needing more tubing and connector/plugs or whatever these are called. Any info on what I'd need exactly? (send via pm to keep thread clean pls)


Here you go -> Acrylic Pipe Bending 101.


----------



## Archea47

Just picked up a Fractal Arc Midi R2 (online)

I'll be using (better fit) an EK DBAY MX 2-slot bay res. I have an Alphacool XT45 radiator 240mm onhand. Has anyone mounted an XT45 on the top in the 'back' position with the ports toward the rear? I'm looking to find out if I need to use a slim fan in the traditional motherboard IO exhaust position if I mount the radiator that way.


----------



## saxovtsmike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Just picked up a Fractal Arc Midi R2 (online)
> 
> I'll be using (better fit) an EK DBAY MX 2-slot bay res. I have an Alphacool XT45 radiator 240mm onhand. Has anyone mounted an XT45 on the top in the 'back' position with the ports toward the rear? I'm looking to find out if I need to use a slim fan in the traditional motherboard IO exhaust position if I mount the radiator that way.


I have testfitted a 360 xt45 in an Arc MINI R2 with the ports near the exhaust fans. Tight but it fits. Maybe just because my ODD Mounting bracket is jaust about 4cm / 1,5" long which is really sufficient to mount an Aquaero or a bayres


----------



## JunkaDK

To all the R5 users..

Just wanted to show you my latest build.. its a TIGHT fit but i managed to squeeze the R5V into this case







Absolutely love this case















Enjoy


----------



## new boy

I'm looking to upgrade my fractal R3 to a design s when I install my custom water loop in the next month or so

only problem is, I have 2x XSPC EX280 rads which are 35mm thick. Official stats from fractal limit top rad size to 55mm inc fan, which means id be over by 5mm when using standard 25mm fans.

Has anyone successfully installed a 35mm rad in the top of a design s?

Don't worry, I'm not going to blame you if things dont work out, I'd really appreciate anyone's thoughts on the matter though.

EDIT - when using a 140.x rad


----------



## brazilianloser

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> To all the R5 users..
> 
> Just wanted to show you my latest build.. its a TIGHT fit but i managed to squeeze the R5V into this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely love this case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enjoy






I think it looks really good man. My only beef is that orange on the PSU. That would drive me nuts. Maybe paint it over or get a skin to match the rest of the build.


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> 
> I think it looks really good man. My only beef is that orange on the PSU. That would drive me nuts. Maybe paint it over or get a skin to match the rest of the build.


Gonna upgrade The psu to an ax model. I believe its red and White ? But thanks ?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JunkaDK*
> 
> Gonna upgrade The psu to an ax model. I believe its red and White ? But thanks ?


Yeap the lettering on the AX models is red. And it would match up your system very nicely. Great build though man don't let that little beef make you think I think otherwise.
FYI just curious on the cables. You did it yourself or custom bought (Lutro, Cablemods...etc...)?


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Yeap the lettering on the AX models is red. And it would match up your system very nicely. Great build though man don't let that little beef make you think I think otherwise.
> FYI just curious on the cables. You did it yourself or custom bought (Lutro, Cablemods...etc...)?


I got them from icemodz.eu, exellent service and fair prices. He is an awesome guy


----------



## Hollywood

Has anyone compared the R5's front panel to the Define S in terms of noise and air flow?

The Define S is quite hollow, and can result in a humming/drone noise from the fans. A slight bit of pressure on the inside or outside muffles it quite a bit.
Does the R5 door with it's thin piece of damping, handle sound better?


----------



## revned1705

Here is my Arc Mini R2 modified to fit an ATX motherboard.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hollywood*
> 
> Has anyone compared the R5's front panel to the Define S in terms of noise and air flow?
> 
> The Define S is quite hollow, and can result in a humming/drone noise from the fans. A slight bit of pressure on the inside or outside muffles it quite a bit.
> Does the R5 door with it's thin piece of damping, handle sound better?


Just put some foam on the inside and call it a day.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revned1705*
> 
> Here is my Arc Mini R2 modified to fit an ATX motherboard.


I don't feel like the case works well like this but whatever floats your boat. How do you plug in your GPU?


----------



## Hollywood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Just put some foam on the inside and call it a day.


I believe the space between the damping/front of the panel and the filter is different?

Also, has any one with a R5, been able to mount the smaller three slot 3.5" drive caddy into where the 5.25" optical bays go (once removed?).
I'd like to put two hard disks up top there, but this isn't supported natively.


----------



## revned1705

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> I don't feel like the case works well like this but whatever floats your boat. How do you plug in your GPU?


This is the same as in Silverstone cases. Here is a pic


Probably you are right, but when I bought this Gigabyte board all I had was this case. So was thinking I should try it. And I think it turned out fine.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revned1705*
> 
> This is the same as in Silverstone cases. Here is a pic
> 
> 
> Probably you are right, but when I bought this Gigabyte board all I had was this case. So was thinking I should try it. And I think it turned out fine.


Yeah it looks pretty professional


----------



## kn106518

The black and white came with the case if kind of boring. Yellow is more fun. Still work in progress.


----------



## JunkaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kn106518*
> 
> The black and white came with the case if kind of boring. Yellow is more fun. Still work in progress.


Beautiful







Merry Xmas


----------



## Bigjk47

Cant wait to swap cases from my Phanteks Primo to the Define R5 white


----------



## rcoolb2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Do you guys know if any company sells a window side panel for the Define Mini? Thanks!


I've heard that the Arc Mini R2 windowed side panel will fit the Define Mini. I have not personally tried it myself though.


----------



## Malik

blueWAVE


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> blueWAVE
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah, a Define S? I just got me one of those, just waiting on the CPU, mobo, and RAM to show up to start working on redoing my folder in one.

Very nice, lets me get a idea how radiators sit in one.


----------



## Baltazar

My first hardline setup


----------



## GreedyMuffin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Yeah it looks pretty professional


That looks dope! I love it. I think it looks pretty good in fact.


----------



## Jumie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baltazar*
> 
> My first hardline setup
> 
> ]


nice build mate.. but is it just me or the loop from rad to the cpu is skewed?


----------



## Baltazar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> nice build mate.. but is it just me or the loop from rad to the cpu is skewed?


Yes you're right, i will fix that when i change the fans


----------



## Lodbroke

Having a Node 605 (The HTPC case) but can't get the Card reader to work...
It's properly connected to the Motherboard, sometimes it find the card reader but Win7 reports it as an unidentified unit (Sorry guys my Win7 is all in swedish)?
Sometimes Win7 doesn't react at all when inserting a card. No difference between 32GB SDHC or 2GB SD.
Win7 have reported that it needs drivers, haven't found any drivers at Fractal Design site.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> Having a Node 605 (The HTPC case) but can't get the Card reader to work...
> It's properly connected to the Motherboard, sometimes it find the card reader but Win7 reports it as an unidentified unit (Sorry guys my Win7 is all in swedish)?
> Sometimes Win7 doesn't react at all when inserting a card. No difference between 32GB SDHC or 2GB SD.
> Win7 have reported that it needs drivers, haven't found any drivers at Fractal Design site.


Sounds like it's using a built-in driver from Windows. If you continue to have issues, contact FD, their customer support is wonderful.


----------



## Ithanul

Well, seems this EATX board I got won't fit into this Define S. Darn, it such a nice case. Hmmm, may have to get the XL instead though I was trying hard to stay to a mid size case for my folder. Unless I take the dremel to it.


----------



## _^MeRcY

Anyone mind telling me what thickness radiator I can fit in a Define S for a 360 up top with fans?


----------



## Exoticheals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*
> 
> Anyone mind telling me what thickness radiator I can fit in a Define S for a 360 up top with fans?


I have a XSPC AX360 (40mm) on top with fans and it ALMOST touches my Corsair Dominator Platinums.


----------



## Exoticheals

If you have shorter ram you can fit a Monsta rad (80mm) since its offset at the top of the case.


----------



## _^MeRcY

Ive got some G. Skill Triden Z's for my 6700k, Im looking at order parts right now and Im thinking I want a 360 and a 240 but not sure to go with a thicker 360 for the front and a thinner 240 up top or instead go with like a medium thick 360 like the EK PE series.


----------



## TheShadow

I'm curious if anyone has put two of EK Coolstream SE 360 in the front and top. If so please post or link me to them. I've seen some builds with PE 360 in both and it was super tight. I'm wanting to go with two 360 but not make it look so tight.


----------



## Baltazar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheShadow*
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has put two of EK Coolstream SE 360 in the front and top. If so please post or link me to them. I've seen some builds with PE 360 in both and it was super tight. I'm wanting to go with two 360 but not make it look so tight.


Yes its possible


----------



## TheShadow

Awesome! Thanks for the pictures. I was looking at what you posted earlier but I couldn't see the rads. What fans are you using? You should post more pictures!


----------



## SanderH

I've started building inside my new Define S. As expected, the side panels (and the entire outside of the cse in general) are a finger print magnet.

What's the best way to get rid of them once I'm done installing everything inside the case?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

A lightly damp cloth that don't leave fibres.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Archea47

I'm finishing up a build in an Arc Midi R2

Coming from a Case Labs I'm still pretty happy with the case. One thing that really ticked me off though was the motherboard stand off holes might as well have not been threaded (if they ever were). I needed to use tools to thread each stand off (and I'm anal about threading safe) and one of the studs sheared it took so much force

Just like working in a Corsair case.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> I'm finishing up a build in an Arc Midi R2
> 
> Coming from a Case Labs I'm still pretty happy with the case. One thing that really ticked me off though was the motherboard stand off holes might as well have not been threaded (if they ever were). I needed to use tools to thread each stand off (and I'm anal about threading safe) and one of the studs sheared it took so much force
> 
> Just like working in a Corsair case.


Odd. I don't remember having any issues with my mini r2


----------



## vietrice89

Does anyone have the swiftech H240X Front mounted in the R5? Did it fit out of box? If not what modding was needed?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_^MeRcY*
> 
> Ive got some G. Skill Triden Z's for my 6700k, Im looking at order parts right now and Im thinking I want a 360 and a 240 but not sure to go with a thicker 360 for the front and a thinner 240 up top or instead go with like a medium thick 360 like the EK PE series.


I had a 60 up front and a 30 up top. Worked pretty well.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Odd. I don't remember having any issues with my mini r2


The PCI card slots were an issue too - for each slot the included covers or my pcie cards stuck a slightly different amount out and I couldn't put my network card in the slot I wanted because the hole for the retaining bolt to hold the IO bracket in the chassis was just a bit off

All in all though I do like the case (Arc midi r2) and have been recommending it


----------



## SanderH

Just installed a H110i GTX in my Define S.

I'm a bit disappointed that I wasn't able to install the fans using a pull config, since the radiator is too wide and gets blocked by the edges of the motherboard backplate of the case. Pretty tight fit cause of the 140mm noiseblocker eLoop at the back.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> Just installed a H110i GTX in my Define S.
> 
> I'm a bit disappointed that I wasn't able to install the fans using a pull config, since the radiator is too wide and gets blocked by the edges of the motherboard backplate of the case. Pretty tight fit cause of the 140mm noiseblocker eLoop at the back.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


No offense intended but If you had taken the time too look at pictures here or read any reviews you would have known that wasn't going to happen. Sorry for the inconvenience.


----------



## MiiX

Tempted to start my Core 1000 build again.... Starting to get some spare time again, wallet isn't going to support most of it, but at least some modding and fitting the hardware will happen pretty soon.

Probably going to watercool the CPU soon, but the GPU has to wait, i might even get rid of it and the mobo to make myself a silent ITX build...


----------



## SanderH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> No offense intended but If you had taken the time too look at pictures here or read any reviews you would have known that wasn't going to happen. Sorry for the inconvenience.


I've actually read and watched tons of reviews and never really saw this issue mentioned. All I heard/read 1000 times is that it's a great watercooling case. The specs on FD's site also didn't mention anything.

I was aware of the 55mm clearance for fan + rad when it comes to thickness, but never really expected 140mm wide radiators to be an issue.

I preferred pull, but I'm guessing push won't make too much of a difference.


----------



## mtrapuzz

.


----------



## vietrice89

Does a ek-KIT X360 fit this case properly?


----------



## SanderH

Anyone who has some LED strips in a Define S case? I'm looking for something which isn't too flashy or lights up my entire room, but something subtle that simply makes the components nice and visible by night. Like this for example:



I'm guessing one at the top and one at the bottom would give the nicest effect? I'm aware of the BitFenix and Phobia ones, but I'm thinking two of these bad boys would do the job, no?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> Anyone who has some LED strips in a Define S case? I'm looking for something which isn't too flashy or lights up my entire room, but something subtle that simply makes the components nice and visible by night. Like this for example:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guessing one at the top and one at the bottom would give the nicest effect? I'm aware of the BitFenix and Phobia ones, but I'm thinking two of these bad boys would do the job, no?


Those would be OK. Placement depends on what you have in your case. What is your set up with fans or rads?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Does a ek-KIT X360 fit this case properly?


Yes should be fine.


----------



## SanderH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Those would be OK. Placement depends on what you have in your case. What is your set up with fans or rads?


Got a H110i in the top. I just found out that the lightning used in the pic above are two Logisys 16" Corner LED Light Bar.

Am I wrong to asume they're way better than the simple LED strips I mentioned earlier, cause spread the light in a 45°C angle, rather than straight up?


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Yes should be fine.


Front mounted?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Front mounted?


Yes I had a 360 mm (actually 400 mm long)in the front of my case and it fit with extra room. The radiator that comes in that kit is the EK CoolStream XE 360mm which is 400 mm long and 60 mm thick. (the same as the one I had in mine).

In the image below you can see my set-up. In the front there is case > 140 mm fans (25 mm thick) > a bracket to go from 140 mm to 120 mm (about 5mm thick) > radiator (60 mm thick). That is how much room you will have left over. Using a 360, you should have a little bit of freedom to move the rad up and down slightly. Hope this helps.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SanderH*
> 
> Got a H110i in the top. I just found out that the lightning used in the pic above are two Logisys 16" Corner LED Light Bar.
> 
> Am I wrong to asume they're way better than the simple LED strips I mentioned earlier, cause spread the light in a 45°C angle, rather than straight up?


This is the stuff I used and it worked great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUUSPVW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I had one strip mounted in the top of the case near the windowed door side. There is a little recess that has a vertical surface the same width as this strip that I mounted the strip to facing the MB. You can kind of see it in the image.



This is what just one strip did. The upper rad blocks most of it however.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Tempted to start my Core 1000 build again.... Starting to get some spare time again, wallet isn't going to support most of it, but at least some modding and fitting the hardware will happen pretty soon.
> 
> Probably going to watercool the CPU soon, but the GPU has to wait, i might even get rid of it and the mobo to make myself a silent ITX build...


Why would you choose to water cool in a case with only a single 120 mm rad compatible?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Why would you choose to water cool in a case with only a single 120 mm rad compatible?


There is no 120mm fan in the front anymore... And there is not a PSU where the PSU is supposed to be...


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> There is no 120mm fan in the front anymore... And there is not a PSU where the PSU is supposed to be...


So the top is an intake?


----------



## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> So the top is an intake?


Yup, thats about right







Check my buildlog for more info: http://www.overclock.net/t/1549351/build-log-cold-devil


----------



## Bigjk47

Do you guys think we will see a Define S (white) anytime in the near future?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigjk47*
> 
> Do you guys think we will see a Define S (white) anytime in the near future?


I haven't seen any videos from CES related to Fractal Design... so who knows.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> I haven't seen any videos from CES related to Fractal Design... so who knows.


Was really looking forward to fractal showing something especially their ARC series.


----------



## siox69

finally done for my wife's rig..
planning to put red dye on it.

just a couple of shrouds for psu and side shroud and some designs for the front bezel and top cover and im ready for our annual lan party.


----------



## 96accord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siox69*
> 
> finally done for my wife's rig..
> planning to put red dye on it.
> 
> just a couple of shrouds for psu and side shroud and some designs for the front bezel and top cover and im ready for our annual lan party.


That's cool your wife games with you!


----------



## dieandromeda

nothing fancy:


----------



## delslow

Hey guys, I'd like to show off some work in progress... I'm open to criticism.

mITX mobo is gone. Rocking a Asus M6F atm. The LTT fans have been updated with black grommets installed.


Front RAD is in push/pull, but I was starving for intake. So I made a few cuts... I need to clean it up eventually.


I framed up some speaker cloth to use as a filter until I figure out what best to use. It seems to keep dust out, but airflow could be better.


Alternate angle showing the shoddy worksmanship on the front panel... the top panel came out pretty good, I think.


Thanks for looking! =P


----------



## Harrywang

Finally done. No more upgrading or spending for me lol.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Hey guys, I'd like to show off some work in progress... I'm open to criticism.
> 
> mITX mobo is gone. Rocking a Asus M6F atm. The LTT fans have been updated with black grommets installed.
> 
> 
> Front RAD is in push/pull, but I was starving for intake. So I made a few cuts... I need to clean it up eventually.
> 
> 
> I framed up some speaker cloth to use as a filter until I figure out what best to use. It seems to keep dust out, but airflow could be better.
> 
> 
> Alternate angle showing the shoddy worksmanship on the front panel... the top panel came out pretty good, I think.
> 
> 
> Thanks for looking! =P


I never understand what the thought process behind a mITX mobo in an ATX case was. If you are taking up the space anyway, you might as well get a board with some features.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> I never understand what the thought process behind a mITX mobo in an ATX case was. If you are taking up the space anyway, you might as well get a board with some features.


It's a transplant from my previous mITX build in a Node 204. I've since replaced it with an ROG M6F and some nice Corsair Dom Plat ram. I'll post some more pics once I finish the midplate and maybe do some hardline tubing. Man this is an expensive hobby.


----------



## Jyve

Is that front cut out really that off or is it just the angle?

The second pic makes it look like it's not even close to even. The top looking wider than the bottom.

Edit: most higher end itx boards aren't lacking in features compared to their bigger brothers. Other than pcie slots usually it's just a fan header or 2 and maybe a couple sata ports.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Memory slots, wifi, and the list goes on


----------



## Jyve

Most itx boards have WiFi while atx does not.


----------



## Velathawen

Hey guys I wanted to get some input for a build I'm doing with a Node 804 soon, specifically the layout:

- 6700K/980ti both plan to be under custom loop

- Going with a Swiftech 220x X2 mounted up top on the mobo chamber

- Potential 240 rad up front (if mounted top)

Questions:

1. Builds like

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/34z7jk/grew_tired_of_my_full_tower_case_went_smaller/
 seem to barely fit and I'm wondering if there are any limitations with mobo VRM heatspreader clearance to watch out for. Would it be better mounted up front as an intake instead? Would the stock tubing even reach?

2. Hard drive cages seem to be all in or nothing from reviews since the railings on the cage prevent the installation of anything else in the secondary slot. Are there other feasible areas to mount storage? We're going to go with m2 SSD just to save space and plan to have 1-2 mechanical drives as backup and storage. This would free up the left chamber for radiator mounting making life much easier.

Thanks!


----------



## kvisten

My prayers have been answered! Define S Nano!

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window


----------



## smithydan

Still no matx, they are stretching the Arc Mini r2 lol.


----------



## brazilianloser




----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kvisten*
> 
> My prayers have been answered! Define S Nano!
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window


Lots of interesting features. I particularly like the sliding pump mount. I hope that makes it to the ATX Define S refresh.


----------



## Darkbreeze

This is clearly in progress and some of my modifications were inspired by the Define S build by Bill Owen (Monstermawd) over at MNPCtech which can be seen on the Fractal Design website as well as his own site. Clearly, I've taken it my own direction, although I did use his tutorial on the front panel cutout as somewhat of a guide to my front cutout. The intention with this was to get an H440 red/black type color scheme using the Define S which I felt had more room and features than the NZXT case did.

Still plenty of stuff to do on this including the custom "Man of Steel" case emblem which is to represent the S in Define S and the Skylake CPU it uses, plus, Superman is just a badass anyhow, so why not. Going to be custom sleeving the PSU cabling using para 550 paracord at some point, installing Aerocool DS 140 red/black fans as I wasn't extremely happy with the overall look of the Noctua NF-A15's after coloring them with vinyl dye and adding a few more interior touches like a custom PSU cover and custom made panel for the back wall on the right hand side where the liquid cooling reservoir is intended to be mounted.

Also planning to add an NZXT Grid v2 and Hue+. I may or may not actually go with a custom loop at some future date, but for now I intend to continue using the Noctua cooler that's in there. A little bit of photoshoping the background out doesn't hurt either. Build is as follows:

Intel i7-6700k
Gigabyte Z170x-Gaming 5
G.Skill DDR4 3000mhz TridentX 16GB
4x Noctua NF-A15 case fans (These will be replaced in the next few days with the DS 140's)
Noctua NH-U14S with an NF-A14 PWM fan (This has more static pressure and more pleasant sound pitch than the A15 that comes on it.)
Sapphire R9-280 Dual X graphics card (Placeholder until I can get a decent card in there. Recently sold my 290x to my beggar brother whose older card died on him and was pestering me since he knew I planned to replace it anyhow)
Define S case
EVGA G2 750w PSU
Samsung 850 EVO 240GB SSD
3 x1TB HDDs


----------



## Danzle

Looks a little like a red version of the XMG Sector PC sold by Schenker.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kvisten*
> 
> My prayers have been answered! Define S Nano!
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-window


Huh. I like it!

Interested to see if it'll fit an ek predator 240 in the front or top. Looks like a solid maybe up top and a doubtful in the front.

I don't have much desire to sli so an it would be OK for me. No need for any mech drive storage as I have a Nas so this just might be what I'm looking for. Of course it has to fit the predator or its a deal breaker,for me.

Ugh. Cards wider than dual slot not recommended. Bummer. My amp extreme is like 5 slots wide! (2.5-3 actually)


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzle*
> 
> Looks a little like a red version of the XMG Sector PC sold by Schenker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yeah, I guess maybe a little. I've never even seen that configuration before. I generally avoid prebuilt systems and the companies that make "custom" prebuilts, so I'd have probably never encountered that.


----------



## Danzle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Yeah, I guess maybe a little. I've never even seen that configuration before. I generally avoid prebuilt systems and the companies that make "custom" prebuilts, so I'd have probably never encountered that.


Schenker is very nice company with outstanding customer support and quality builds. I've got my gaming notebook from them and with any issue the help fast and professional. I tought about buy there my next pc since the offer those nice green fractal builds, but it's expensiv.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzle*
> 
> Schenker is very nice company with outstanding customer support and quality builds. I've got my gaming notebook from them and with any issue the help fast and professional. I tought about buy there my next pc since the offer those nice green fractal builds, but it's expensiv.


And that is part of the reason I avoid those kinds of companies. One, they're expensive. You can always build a system that's better and cheaper than what you can buy from any systems builder. Two, it's generally a bigger hassle getting them to fix or replace something than it is to simply RMA a faulty part to the manufacturer. But for some people it makes sense.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*


Oooh, I like the selection of grill on the front. I've looked into some grill materials but they seem to be so freaking expensive. The "Modder's Mesh" that many builds use costs like 35 bucks. I'm hoping to find something that allows for airflow, but is visually opaque/dark.

To be honest, the insides look a bit bare without any water cooling. Have you thought of filling in that area or is it there for air flow purposes?


----------



## Iceman2733

I recently built on a Define S, love the case and its simplicity and great features. If I could change anything it would to maybe make it just 1-2" taller and and maybe an 1" wider. It fits my SLI and my Predator 360 good but I am not sure how it will hold up in the long term if I go for full blow water cooling I think everything will be tight. But for the price it was a great purchase, the features of the case are great I wish more case makers would note that sometimes simplicity is the best way.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Oooh, I like the selection of grill on the front. I've looked into some grill materials but they seem to be so freaking expensive. The "Modder's Mesh" that many builds use costs like 35 bucks. I'm hoping to find something that allows for airflow, but is visually opaque/dark.
> 
> To be honest, the insides look a bit bare without any water cooling. Have you thought of filling in that area or is it there for air flow purposes?


Yes, I thought of using the modders mesh from MNPCtech, and had something worked out with Bill Owen on just having him actually paint the front grill for me on one of his prefabricated Define S front panels, but decided I'd rather do it myself and use something not seen on anybody elses mod, so that's why I used the Union Jack perforated metal up there. I think I paid 18.00 for a 12" x 24" sheet at Home Depot.

Like I said in my post, that bare area where a reservoir is supposed to be mounted is going to get covered with something. Not sure what yet. Possibly some painted diamond plate or other sheet material, and then an NZXT Grid v2 and NZXT Hue+ are getting mounted there. If I end up building a custom loop for it later then I'll move those to the bottom in front of the PSU or around back maybe.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> I recently built on a Define S, love the case and its simplicity and great features. If I could change anything it would to maybe make it just 1-2" taller and and maybe an 1" wider. It fits my SLI and my Predator 360 good but I am not sure how it will hold up in the long term if I go for full blow water cooling I think everything will be tight. But for the price it was a great purchase, the features of the case are great I wish more case makers would note that sometimes simplicity is the best way.


Clearly, this case is intended for specific configurations. Any build requiring extensive open loop configurations should look to a full tower case of some kind. Be kind of nice if they came out with an extra large mid tower Define S or full tower variety. I agree that it could be a little wider. I would love to have another half inch to inch of cable management clearance on the back side.


----------



## Darkbreeze

This is what's going to be mounted on the front grill in the center. It started life a a belt buckle, and was heavily modfied itself. I thought the Superman S from man of steel looked pretty modern and was a nice play on the Define "S"


----------



## rejor

Hey guys,

So I recently bought a Core 500 for my new mini-itx build, but I'm wondering if a Gigabyte Gaming 5 mini-itx board will be a good fit for this case. I ask because I read somewhere that 90 degree sata ports may run into fitting problems in this case, and I think the Gaming 5 has those 90 degree ports.

Please let me know







Thank you.


----------



## Wovermars1996

So I'd figured I'd post updated pictures from my current system. Nothing has changed really except for the cooler. Recently the ekwb predator was recalled and I bought a Noctua uh 14s to replace it. Going to get some red chroma vibration mounts to replace the brown ones.


----------



## Iceman2733

I guess after all the posting I could actually show my system off, have new corsair af140 fans on the way so don't judge the miss colored fans too hard lol









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## khemist

How do you find your temps on the cards?.


----------



## Darkbreeze

Damn, those fans just ruin it. Nah, JK.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> Damn, those fans just ruin it. Nah, JK.


lmao..... I have some new ones ordered hopefully they beat this snow storm they are predicting for my area

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Darkbreeze

I actually just got in four of the Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm red/black fans today to test out. Going to see how they do in there, and how they look, as compared to the Noctua NF-A15's that I vinyl dyed. The coloring came out pretty good, especially on the black parts but even pretty fair on the red, but even though the vinyl dye coating is extremely light compared to paint, and contrary to what Bill Own may indicate on his website, it seems to have affected the fans to a slight degree.

They struggle to start up from a cold start when set to silent and one of them has an extremely slight wobble to it now. Regardless, I like the color scheme of the Aerocool DS fans and going strictly off reviews they have REALLY decent specs for an Aerocool product, so I'm interested in what testing says about them


----------



## Skullzaflare

Hey guys, Figure i would drop my octo core r4 here lol
in process of ordering 2 280mm radiators to make fit, ram blocks, and 970 block


----------



## Darkbreeze

Any of you guys done any custom PSU cable sleeving? I'm just looking for personal opinions on whether to go with Teleios sleeving or to just use Paracord? I'll be sleeving individually, and I'm not AS concerned with ease of installation as I am with the end result and longevity. I don't want to do the job and be pissed if it's not right. I'm not too sure about the Teleios as it's not a fabric weave but a plastic that looks like fabric. It seems to be a quality product, but I'm skeptical of things in general and there seems to be a lot more high end builds that use paracord than any other kind of sleeving. I've done plenty of sleeving of full wire bundles before with larger sleeves made for that, but never done any individually sleeved runs.

I guess my biggest concern is, am I missing out on anything if I go with Paracord or is the Teleios a better option?


----------



## khemist

I've used telios on mine, check my system pic.

https://imageshack.com/i/idy3M3RWj

https://imageshack.com/i/eyGXNd1rj

I think telios looks a lot better than paracord, just my opinion.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I've used telios on mine, check my system pic.
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/idy3M3RWj
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/eyGXNd1rj
> 
> I think telios looks a lot better than paracord, just my opinion.


Those are beautiful cables man...... Makes me wish I did my own can buying evga pre done ones. They are nice but getting them to lay is horrible

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Those are beautiful cables man...... Makes me wish I did my own can buying evga pre done ones. They are nice but getting them to lay is horrible
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's usually because they use 18 awg wire instead of the 16 that trains well. 18 just looks super flimsy to me even with Teleios or MDPC. Personally, I like the more subdued color of paracord than the vibrant/glossy plastic look.


----------



## fleetfeather

Are there any Core 500 owners lurking in here? I require a measurement


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Are there any Core 500 owners lurking in here? I require a measurement


I'll see what I can do, whats up?


----------



## Jras

Wanted some nice LEDs to make seeing into my case (Define S) a little easier. Found this kit for around US$20 and decided what the heck and bought it.















The kit included 2 LED RGB strips ,installed one in the floor and the other in the roof. Cable management was also simple enough, one lead of each of the LED strips, another lead for the IR receiver and another for power, most of which is hidden behind the mobo tray. IR receiver has to be kept up front because line of sight is needed.

Remote allows for choice of 16 different colors, however i will probably leave it at white to match up with my keyboard and mouse. It also allows options such as flash, strobe, fade and smooth transitions. Also allows to adjust the brightness as well as to turn off and on.
Very pleased with the results, biggest problem now is to keep the remote safe from the kids.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cadger*
> 
> I'll see what I can do, whats up?


I was wondering how strict the "100mm" radiator+fan clearance is when using an ATX PSU.

I have an Alphacool Monsta rad (86mm thick) and a pair of AP-15 fans (25mm) thick, which might be able to be squeezed in if Fractal Design have been conservative with their "100mm clearance" specification

Any chance someone could get a ruler out and double check the clearance between the inside of the top panel, and the top of their ATX PSU?


----------



## MR-e

Guys, will a node 804 + H220x have clearance issues with GSkill Trident Z ram? I need to mount the H220x in the top mobo side.


----------



## Dreamliner

All the water setups, lol. Nice to see air once and a while.


----------



## cadger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I was wondering how strict the "100mm" radiator+fan clearance is when using an ATX PSU.
> 
> I have an Alphacool Monsta rad (86mm thick) and a pair of AP-15 fans (25mm) thick, which might be able to be squeezed in if Fractal Design have been conservative with their "100mm clearance" specification
> 
> Any chance someone could get a ruler out and double check the clearance between the inside of the top panel, and the top of their ATX PSU?


Sorry I'm using a SFX-L for my PSU.


----------



## enkur

How do you get that video card to be at that angle? Do you have some close up of that... thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardGTan*
> 
> Sneak peek! Almost finish my first water cooling/case mod build in the Fractal Define S


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> How do you get that video card to be at that angle? Do you have some close up of that... thanks


From what it looks like he is using an extender with the card flipped and case modding to hold the card in place. But yeah better explanation probably coming from the builder soon.


----------



## rejor

So I built a Core 500 up. It was my first mini-itx build, and man... it was really hard.

http://pcpartpicker.com/b/svr7YJ

Took me two days to complete. The biggest challenge was fitting the cooler, which was also my least-researched part. But I got it for a good deal and thought, "Why not?" Why not indeed.... gods.

Fitting an H80i GT into the core 500 is possible, but I do not recommend it.


----------



## vietrice89

I have an R5 and I'm thinking about putting a radiator up top but deciding on what size.

Would a 420 fit well? Would the EK CE fit with fans in push?
Other 420s to consider?

Would I be better off with a 360 and moving it all the way to the side to avoid contact with the motherboard?


----------



## BeerPowered

Looking at getting a Define S for a new mATX Build. Anybody now the dimensions of the Top vented area. Im looking at getting a custom magnetic filter and am wonder how big it needs to be. I know that DEMCiflex makes them for other Fractual Cases along with many others..


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> Looking at getting a Define S for a new mATX Build. Anybody now the dimensions of the Top vented area. Im looking at getting a custom magnetic filter and am wonder how big it needs to be. I know that DEMCiflex makes them for other Fractual Cases along with many others..


Kinda hard to say exactly, since it's beveled. And the screws for the radiator pop out along the border where the filter might sit.


----------



## coelacanth

I have the Arc Midi R2.

Does anyone have a fix to stop the bottom fan grill and front fan grill from rattling?

The front fan grill clips in bit it's not very snug, it is pretty loose. The bottom dust filter also does not fit very snugly. As a result vibrations in my case from hard drives and case fans set both of those grills rattling around / vibrating pretty badly.

Thanks.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> I have an R5 and I'm thinking about putting a radiator up top but deciding on what size.
> 
> Would a 420 fit well? Would the EK CE fit with fans in push?
> Other 420s to consider?
> 
> Would I be better off with a 360 and moving it all the way to the side to avoid contact with the motherboard?


Stick with the 360. You will be glad you have some extra room.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coelacanth*
> 
> I have the Arc Midi R2.
> 
> Does anyone have a fix to stop the bottom fan grill and front fan grill from rattling?
> 
> The front fan grill clips in bit it's not very snug, it is pretty loose. The bottom dust filter also does not fit very snugly. As a result vibrations in my case from hard drives and case fans set both of those grills rattling around / vibrating pretty badly.
> 
> Thanks.


You could tape off the mesh and paint the frame with plastidip to give it a nice rubberish coating.


----------



## enkur

Showing off my latest build

EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel
EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical
EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL)
EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi
EK-Coolstream PE 240mm x 2
Fractal Design Defne R5 Window case


----------



## Cozmo85

Will a 360 60mm in push pull in a define S mount to the front and still have room for a wall mounted reservoir?


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Will a 360 60mm in push pull in a define S mount to the front and still have room for a wall mounted reservoir?


I have an EK-CoolStream XE 360 (60mm) in my Define S in push/pull, BUT it will not fit unless you mount the push fans on the outside of the intake side of the front panel. This will choke the intake, unless you want to make a mod to the front panel.

*Here you can see the 60mm rad in the front, with 25mm fans in pull, and 25mm in push (on the intake side)*


*I've cut the front out (I've got to clean it up a bit more) and placed Black Chromax corners on the LTT fans (sorry Linus, orange was a bit loud)*


*This is me trying to use speaker cloth to cover up the hole, but it's too restrictive. I have to find a better solution.*


----------



## Cozmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> I have an EK-CoolStream XE 360 (60mm) in my Define S in push/pull, BUT it will not fit unless you mount the push fans on the outside of the intake side of the front panel. This will choke the intake, unless you want to make a mod to the front panel.
> 
> *Here you can see the 60mm rad in the front, with 25mm fans in pull, and 25mm in push (on the intake side)*
> 
> 
> *I've cut the front out (I've got to clean it up a bit more) and placed Black Chromax corners on the LTT fans (sorry Linus, orange was a bit loud)*
> 
> 
> *This is me trying to use speaker cloth to cover up the hole, but it's too restrictive. I have to find a better solution.*


How bad is the intake with a 60mm front rad and just push or pull? I am using a rad with a much lower FPI than you also. (11 vs 16)


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cozmo85*
> 
> Will a 360 60mm in push pull in a define S mount to the front and still have room for a wall mounted reservoir?


Depending on your GPU length you could do push/pull/60mm rad inside the front of the case if you used a radiator reservoir mount and made a bracket for your pump to sit on.


----------



## Strieng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Showing off my latest build
> 
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
> EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical
> EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL)
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi
> EK-Coolstream PE 240mm x 2
> Fractal Design Defne R5 Window case


Looks great! Beautiful job


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Showing off my latest build
> 
> EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
> EK-FC Titan X/GTX980 Ti Waterblock - Nickel
> EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm Fan) Vertical
> EK-Ekoolant EVO Blood RED (concentrate 100mL)
> EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi
> EK-Coolstream PE 240mm x 2
> Fractal Design Defne R5 Window case
> ]


You might get a cleaner loop if you go reservoir/pump --> GPU --> CPU --> Top radiator --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump.

If you want water to pass through radiator before and after each water block, then this might work. Flip the top radiator and then do this.

reservoir/pump --> GPU --> top radiator --> GPU --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> Looking at getting a Define S for a new mATX Build. Anybody now the dimensions of the Top vented area. Im looking at getting a custom magnetic filter and am wonder how big it needs to be. I know that DEMCiflex makes them for other Fractual Cases along with many others..


I've heard that it's identical to the R5, so the R5 filters might fit.


----------



## enkur

Thanks for the suggestions. I might change them around some... my problem was that the tube was creating kinks when going through some components. I am using the quick disconnects that I had left over from a few years back so they are quite large and make routing a bit tricky.

I hear the new ones are much smaller and easier to route as they can twist inside the connector.

I may have to buy some angled (45 or 90 degree) fittings to make it a bit cleaner. currently one of the tubes sticks out of the case a bit and gets pushed when putting on the side panel.

I am going to be away for a couple of weeks and when I return I will rethink my loop a bit.

Does the order of the different components matter that much?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> You might get a cleaner loop if you go reservoir/pump --> GPU --> CPU --> Top radiator --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump.
> 
> If you want water to pass through radiator before and after each water block, then this might work. Flip the top radiator and then do this.
> 
> reservoir/pump --> GPU --> top radiator --> GPU --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I might change them around some... my problem was that the tube was creating kinks when going through some components. I am using the quick disconnects that I had left over from a few years back so they are quite large and make routing a bit tricky.
> 
> I hear the new ones are much smaller and easier to route as they can twist inside the connector.
> 
> I may have to buy some angled (45 or 90 degree) fittings to make it a bit cleaner. currently one of the tubes sticks out of the case a bit and gets pushed when putting on the side panel.
> 
> I am going to be away for a couple of weeks and when I return I will rethink my loop a bit.
> 
> Does the order of the different components matter that much?


It's an expensive hobby, for sure. I've spent weeks thinking about this before my first loop. I'm about to order everything I need. I'm sure I'll run into issues as well.

You might get like a 1 degree difference in the water temp that enters your block if you go direct from GPU to CPU. It won't matter much. You'll get better performance by having a much shorter run though. Plus, your case will be more open, increasing airflow.The cleanest and shortest route will likely work the best.


----------



## vietrice89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Stick with the 360. You will be glad you have some extra room.


Could you expand on that?

Would http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html

with 3x Noctua NF-F12 be the right fit then?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vietrice89*
> 
> Could you expand on that?
> 
> Would http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html
> 
> with 3x Noctua NF-F12 be the right fit then?


420 is to close to the motherboard. Any 360 should be OK as long as your ram isn't too big. Try to find a 360 rad that is closer to 120 mm wide.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkur*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestions. I might change them around some... my problem was that the tube was creating kinks when going through some components. I am using the quick disconnects that I had left over from a few years back so they are quite large and make routing a bit tricky.
> 
> I hear the new ones are much smaller and easier to route as they can twist inside the connector.
> 
> I may have to buy some angled (45 or 90 degree) fittings to make it a bit cleaner. currently one of the tubes sticks out of the case a bit and gets pushed when putting on the side panel.
> 
> I am going to be away for a couple of weeks and when I return I will rethink my loop a bit.
> 
> Does the order of the different components matter that much?


No it does not matter much. The water temperature inside the loop varies very little through the loop. This of course depends on the flow rate of the loop..

Relevant quote from ROG forums by the user named fronzel because he explained it better than I could
Quote:


> The temperature of the water never varies more than a few degrees C through the entire loop in a typical setup.
> However, this all comes down to waterflow. With good flow you are never even going to see 1 degree C of difference.
> 
> I don't have temperatures to show from my own system, but we can do some simple math to illustrate:
> Water has a heat capacity of about 4182 J pr kg pr K at sea level and room temperature.
> Lets take a MCPx35 with 1050 L/h, and assume you get less than half that flow in an actual WC loop - 500L/h
> Mass moving through the system every second (500/60/60) = 0,139 kg
> Heat capacity of that mass (0,139*4182J) = 580 per degree Kelvin
> 
> This means you have 580 Watts of heat being removed from your system for every one degree Kelvin/Celcius of difference on inlet and outlet temperatire on the radiator. And this is the highest temperature difference you are going to have in a loop with this flow rate.
> 
> With a very low flow rate you will get higher temperature differences through the loop, and placement of components in relation to radiators might become a factor.
> 
> And the conclusion: now i want a flow meter and temperature sensors in my loop


*tl;dr: As simple and short tubing is better than the complexity you have right now.*

Like Jidonsu said, you could go with reservoir/pump --> GPU --> CPU --> Top radiator --> front radiator --> reservoir/pump. And not have to change anything else other than the tubing/loop order.
Of course you could flip the rad like he said, and have a rad between GPU/CPU but if your flow rate is good enough, you will not see a difference.
Though if you flip it, then the tubing is gonna be longer, so.. Yeah.. (and personally, in my head it looks better if you don't flip it)

Edit: Although while I'm at it, I'd probably think about having the top rad exhaust along with making the rear fan intake air. Add a filter to the rear fan and voila. Filtered 2x front/1x rear intakes, 2x exhaust at the top > air flow/pressure wise quite balanced.


----------



## Skullzaflare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skullzaflare*
> 
> Hey guys, Figure i would drop my octo core r4 here lol
> in process of ordering 2 280mm radiators to make fit, ram blocks, and 970 block


Has anyone squeezed 2 280mm rads in the design r4?
would like to do 280's, but hate to order and find it is way to much work to fit


----------



## Malik

pitch *BLACK*


----------



## brazilianloser

Man wish I new or had the equipment to take such nice pictures.

And very nice build my good sir @Malik


----------



## Rossky

Started this build as a replacement of an acer predator prebuild that was given to me as a birthday present a long time ago. Had the case ever since. Not too long ago, I decided to paint it to spice up the monolithic look.




To prepare the thing for future water cooling loops, I decided it would be a good idea to make use of the space in the drive bay. Luckily, sawing off a tiny piece of the HDD cage sleds allowed me to easily mount it upside down in there without having to drill a single new hole - awesome.


Now I don't really call myself a master of cable management and that is a real shame. There's nothing cooler than perfectly done cables...


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Man wish I new or had the equipment to take such nice pictures.
> 
> And very nice build my good sir @Malik


Looks like he is using a black backdrop with some large professional lights that you can see in the background of one of the pictures. This looks typical of strobed lighting photography, so I am guessing it was done that way.


----------



## siox69

current build for my wife's rig

still got a top and front shroud to finish though

getting ready for our annual lan party in a couple of weeks..

enjoy!


----------



## Rossky

That looks absolutely amazing @siox69 , very nicely done. I especially like that backplate. looks sick!


----------



## BeerPowered

Anyone mod the Define S to reverse ATX?


----------



## siox69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rossky*
> 
> That looks absolutely amazing @siox69 , very nicely done. I especially like that backplate. looks sick!


Thanks bro.. i cut myself doing those sharp corners of the dragon..


----------



## DiNet

Hey, does Core 1500 take NH-D14?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiNet*
> 
> Hey, does Core 1500 take NH-D14?


idk

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/core-series/core-1500
Quote:


> Supports tall CPU cooler towers, up to about 162mm in height


http://noctua.at/en/nh-d14.html
Quote:


> Height (with fan) 160 mm


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siox69*
> 
> Thanks bro.. i cut myself doing those sharp corners of the dragon..


That's the mark of a PC builder. Also, that's some amazing work.


----------



## Ithanul

Darn, indeed very nice work. Still need to get a scroll saw myself. Using a dremel all right, but can still be a pain for certain things.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pnuSpRTej

https://imageshack.com/i/pn8S11EDj

https://imageshack.com/i/pnI21Sy7j

Define S here, forgot to put it up , it will be different soon after i go back to custom water proper.


----------



## Ithanul

Still that is nice and simple.







The green goes nice in there.


----------



## khemist

Yeah, it's simple that's what i thought and what i wanted.

I just need the matching pcie cables for psu, got one just need another.


----------



## khemist

Also it's the EK predator, my pump died and i put a more powerful in an makes a humming noise.

I'm going back custom water.

Edit - i also ordered the fractal Define S Left side solid panel to dampen the the sound.. we will see, i will add it to the unused parts.= if it's not used.

I must have thousands in unused parts now, it's absurd.


----------



## siox69

Placed some led strips in front.. And some light show..
forgive me for the poor quality pics, it was just taken on a cam phone, will post descent pics soon..


----------



## Rossky

@siox69 The quality of these mods is very impressive. How are they held in place? I suppose you don't just glue these on, right? I don't see any screws.


----------



## toyz72

i've been into fractal design for a while now. so much that i own a midi,arc mini,and a node 304







i'm pretty excited for the release of the nano s. anyone else looking into this case?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i've been into fractal design for a while now. so much that i own a midi,arc mini,and a node 304
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm pretty excited for the release of the nano s. anyone else looking into this case?


FD is awesome. I had the Arc Mini, moved to the Arc Mini R2, and have a basic server in the Node 304. If I ever moved to ITX, I would go with the Nano S or the Node 202.


----------



## toyz72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> FD is awesome. I had the Arc Mini, moved to the Arc Mini R2, and have a basic server in the Node 304. If I ever moved to ITX, I would go with the Nano S or the Node 202.


i wanted to get a 202 at one time,but my vcard isnt really friendly for such a small case(r9 290) another reason was psu. silverstone seems to be the only real choice when it comes to sff psu. right now im now willing to change psu,or vcard.but maybe down the road someone else will put out some sff power supplys.

i know a lot of guys dont like the lager form factor itx's,but i like the ease of a larger case.the nano s should be great for about any cooling needs,and it looks like the cable management is spot on. really hoping it releases next month.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyz72*
> 
> i wanted to get a 202 at one time,but my vcard isnt really friendly for such a small case(r9 290) another reason was psu. silverstone seems to be the only real choice when it comes to sff psu. right now im now willing to change psu,or vcard.but maybe down the road someone else will put out some sff power supplys.
> 
> i know a lot of guys dont like the lager form factor itx's,but i like the ease of a larger case.the nano s should be great for about any cooling needs,and it looks like the cable management is spot on. really hoping it releases next month.


Yea, it would be nice if there were more power supplies in the SFX market. I know Corsair revealed a 450W and a 600W power supply, but I have yet to see a release date.

One thing I would like to see from FD is a new Arc Mini case, but I don't know what they could do to improve on the R2.


----------



## Shumejko

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shumejko*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean build


----------



## mstrmind5

Is there any difference in the sound dampening between the windowed and non-windowed version of the Fractal R5 case?

Thanks.


----------



## khemist

I think so, i think it depends on if you use a pump.

If using a pump it can make a humming or vibrating sound in the case.

If air cooling with fans that are not high rpm then should be ok.


----------



## mstrmind5

Only using air cooling, but I also have 4 hdd's in my system as well.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shumejko*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wish I had that little amount of cables in the back of my case... But yeah clean man very clean.


----------



## khemist

I tried the EK predator for a but but the pump burned out and when i replaced it with a more powerful one i wasn't happy with the noise and used to better temps.

https://imageshack.com/i/poTxxxvTj

https://imageshack.com/i/pmZR9huPj

Back to proper water now in the Define S, new things are the D5 and res and tubing, other stuff is stuff i had.

Not the best pics, will sort it when i've got everything how i want it like the tubing runs.


----------



## Jidonsu

Building in a Define S was mostly pleasurable.For those of you who want to put the front fans outside the case, thinking you'd lose the use of the filter, think again.

If you're using 140mm fans like the Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 like me, the filter sorta snaps right back onto the fans. A bit of black electrical tape does the trick.





Just finished my watercooled build. Check it out here if you want to see more detailed pics.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1588838/build-log-liquid-black-fury


----------



## Elrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malik*
> 
> pitch *BLACK*


Dear Sir,

You have given me the BIGGEST hard-on for this new Air-cooler, but alas I don't know it's name.

What is it called and above all else, where did you purchase it from?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> Dear Sir,
> 
> You have given me the BIGGEST hard-on for this new Air-cooler, but alas I don't know it's name.
> 
> What is it called and above all else, where did you purchase it from?


https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/fortis-3-he1425-malik-customs-edition/

I don't know if it's for sale yet, but that's it.


----------



## Malik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elrick*
> 
> Dear Sir,
> 
> You have given me the BIGGEST hard-on for this new Air-cooler, but alas I don't know it's name.
> 
> What is it called and above all else, where did you purchase it from?


Here you have









http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019ZOTM4Q

http://www.amazon.de/dp/B019ZOTM4Q

http://www.amazon.it/dp/B019ZOTM4Q


----------



## Jyve

Fortis 3 Malik customs edition

https://www.silentiumpc.com/en/fortis-3-he1425-malik-customs-edition/

*edit* beat me to it!


----------



## Benjiw

Hello all! May I join your club? I love my Define S and recently built a rig inside it codename Kraken. Will post pics soon just waiting for decent light and stuff.


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyone rocking a dust filter on the top of a Define S that could pitch in?
Wondering if this will work?
]Demciflex]http://www.performance-pcs.com/demciflex-magnetic-fan-dust-filter-custom-filter-for-fractal-design-r5-3-vent-top.html#Questions-Answersqa[cT0xMDg1]]Demciflex Filter[/URL]

Just curious for the situation where one would use the top as an intake...


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone rocking a dust filter on the top of a Define S that could pitch in?
> Wondering if this will work?
> ]Demciflex]http://www.performance-pcs.com/demciflex-magnetic-fan-dust-filter-custom-filter-for-fractal-design-r5-3-vent-top.html#Questions-Answersqa[cT0xMDg1]]Demciflex Filter[/URL]
> 
> Just curious for the situation where one would use the top as an intake...


I have one. It's a perfect fit. I use it keep dust from falling in even with the top as an exhaust.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I have one. It's a perfect fit. I use it keep dust from falling in even with the top as an exhaust.


Good to know. Thinking of rocking the top as an intake on my redo of the current build. So good to know I have the option to and keep the system dust free in the process if I end up going that route.


----------



## mstrmind5

Just received a window R5. There seems to be a couple of issues with it - the window side panel is warped (the window itself), making it very difficult to close it properly. There is a small gap between the window edge and the white panel; is this common? The middle latch for the latching mehanism for the side panel doesn't protrude out as far as it should be to catch the notch of the panel.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> Just received a window R5. There seems to be a couple of issues with it - the window side panel is warped (the window itself), making it very difficult to close it properly. There is a small gap between the window edge and the white panel; is this common? The middle latch for the latching mehanism for the side panel doesn't protrude out as far as it should be to catch the notch of the panel.


You could return it, or go through customer service to get those parts replaced. Fractal Design's customer service is top notch! I mean, they are ridiculous to the point that I feel bad asking for anything cause they'll most likely grant it.


----------



## mstrmind5

Thanks!


----------



## Benjiw

Here's my contribution.


----------



## Fast93bird

Update to my cases: Think I like Fractal design?

Left case is my......was my......HTPC. Node 304, AMD A6 APU, on board graphics, 60gb SSD, 2x 2TB Toshiba for storage.

Right case is my baby. Node 804, I7 5820, 32gb Corsair Dominator DDR4, Samsung Pro 950 512GB, 2x Toshiba 3TB for backups (pictures, music, anything else), EVGA GTX 960 FTW, EVGA Micro 2 motherboard.

Seriously considering shoving additional drives into the NODE 804 and using it solely as I'm running a plex server at home now (ROKU4 in teh living room, XBone in the bedroom, PS3 in the kids room).

But I do love these fractal cases. So clean and simple.

http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Fastbird93/media/Computer Stuff/0227162148b1_zpsbuyiszwz.jpg.html


----------



## Mack42

Anyone looking forward to build in the Define Nano S? If so, what components? Would a 280mm radiator in the front be enough for CPU and GPU?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Anyone looking forward to build in the Define Nano S? If so, what components? Would a 280mm radiator in the front be enough for CPU and GPU?


I'd fit as many slim radiators as you can in that little box of cuteness! I want one for a media PC.


----------



## yekim416

this is my define r5 build this is also my first pc build and first watercooled and hardlined i plan to clean it up alot more i just wanted to finish it so i can start using it and save up some more money to do more well anyway here it is


----------



## siox69

my wife's rig during our annual lan party..
too bad, didnt won an award though..


----------



## Ithanul

Darn, that is sweet looking.

What material did you use to do the accent designs?


----------



## brazilianloser

Anyone rocking a front rad on the Define S that has their fans on the outside close to the lid??? Can pitch in on noise compared to fans and rad inside the case and performance???


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Anyone rocking a front rad on the Define S that has their fans on the outside close to the lid??? Can pitch in on noise compared to fans and rad inside the case and performance???


Check out my build log for the pics. The noise is fine, especially if you use quiet fans. I can't hear the fans over the D5 pump, and I'm using the Fractal Design Venturi HP fans. The front doesn't offer much sound insulation anyways.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Check out my build log for the pics. The noise is fine, especially if you use quiet fans. I can't hear the fans over the D5 pump, and I'm using the Fractal Design Venturi HP fans. The front doesn't offer much sound insulation anyways.


Interesting... how did you get teh filter to stay on top of the fans like that? Double side tape? Or just matching the magnets to the screws?


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Interesting... how did you get teh filter to stay on top of the fans like that? Double side tape? Or just matching the magnets to the screws?


The filter snapped onto the side of the fans. I just added some black electrical tape to the sides to the safe.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> The filter snapped onto the side of the fans. I just added some black electrical tape to the sides to the safe.


Interesting. Was in need of some extra space in that area so moving the fans outside and pushing the rad back will give me some of that space I am hoping. Appreciate it the input and good build so far.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

I want to rave on Fractal Design, their customer support is really top notch. I sent them a Ticket requesting a new side panel for my define s and i got an email back saying they would be happy to send a replacement side panel. Sent them my information, picture of the warped side panel and 2 hrs later i got an email saying they had prepared my shipment.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> I want to rave on Fractal Design, their customer support is really top notch. I sent them a Ticket requesting a new side panel for my define s and i got an email back saying they would be happy to send a replacement side panel. Sent them my information, picture of the warped side panel and 2 hrs later i got an email saying they had prepared my shipment.


Lies! you need to supply them a photo of the serial number on the bottom of the case as well! =P

The customer service is awesome and even if these FD cases were $20 more per case, it'd easily be worth it for the after sales support from their staff.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Lies! you need to supply them a photo of the serial number on the bottom of the case as well! =P
> 
> The customer service is awesome and even if these FD cases were $20 more per case, it'd easily be worth it for the after sales support from their staff.


Well i also sent them a picture of the serial number as well...lol


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I built a HTPC with a Fractal Design Node 605, really turned out nice I think.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1590437/new-fractal-node-605-htpc-rig

Since those pics were taken, I added another Noctua 3 pin 120mm fan as intake to the empty slot by the CPU cooler, and the Star Tech HDMI capture card is also in there now. One of the main reasons I went mATX vs ITX, the extra PCI-E slots, needed one for the HDMI card.

I use the Logitech K400 Plus keyboard, works great even with the receiver on the back of the case.

It's a solid little rig, I love the case, and I leave it on 24/7. Basically silent, it just sits there and does its thing


----------



## Pulsarius

Hello mates, need some info if anyone can help me !!!

i bought a Fractal Define S case , now my question !!!

can i place a Alphacool rad 360mm , 45mm thick in the front and place a alphacool 360mm X-FLOW , 45mm thick in the top ?

assuming i place the front rad all the way down in the case, and the fans outside the case in the front.
will i have clearance in the top right corner ?

i have a phobya 360mm , 60mm thick that i planed to use in the front but i think i will have no clearance on the top right corner for and x-flow on the top, 45mm or 30mm thick rads ?

thanks for any advice and guidance







!!!!


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pulsarius*
> 
> Hello mates, need some info if anyone can help me !!!
> 
> i bought a Fractal Define S case , now my question !!!
> 
> can i place a Alphacool rad 360mm , 45mm thick in the front and place a alphacool 360mm X-FLOW , 45mm thick in the top ?
> 
> assuming i place the front rad all the way down in the case, and the fans outside the case in the front.
> will i have clearance in the top right corner ?
> 
> i have a phobya 360mm , 60mm thick that i planed to use in the front but i think i will have no clearance on the top right corner for and x-flow on the top, 45mm or 30mm thick rads ?
> 
> thanks for any advice and guidance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!


I have seen people post dual 360s here before but they were slim rads and they were always too close for comfort... so my guess would be no.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pulsarius*
> 
> Hello mates, need some info if anyone can help me !!!
> 
> i bought a Fractal Define S case , now my question !!!
> 
> can i place a Alphacool rad 360mm , 45mm thick in the front and place a alphacool 360mm X-FLOW , 45mm thick in the top ?
> 
> assuming i place the front rad all the way down in the case, and the fans outside the case in the front.
> will i have clearance in the top right corner ?
> 
> i have a phobya 360mm , 60mm thick that i planed to use in the front but i think i will have no clearance on the top right corner for and x-flow on the top, 45mm or 30mm thick rads ?
> 
> thanks for any advice and guidance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!!!


It only works with 30mm radiators if the front radiator has the ports at just the bottom. Even then, it's close, and it may depends on the manufacturer.


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, hmmm, I'm not sure if I have 45mm thick rad on hand. If I do I can smack it on mine since I am right now placing parts on it to get idea the route I'm going with mine.


----------



## Jidonsu

Dual 360s in this build.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, here a shot I just did. Top a 30mm front 60mm. Give you a idea with space you can work with.



I don't have any 45mm ones on hand.


----------



## delslow

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/13810#post_24842596

25mm (push) on top and 60mm (push/pull) in the front. Not sure what clearance would look like with a slimmer front radiator.

edit: Looking at it again, it looks like the front radiator would have to be about 25mm thinner than what I have (read: 60-25=35mm) to allow for the fans to clear each other. I'm going to venture to guess that dual 45mm rads will NOT fit in the Define S without some modding.


----------



## Pulsarius

thanks to everyone that lost a bit of his time to be able to help me








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> I have seen people post dual 360s here before but they were slim rads and they were always too close for comfort... so my guess would be no.


ty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> It only works with 30mm radiators if the front radiator has the ports at just the bottom. Even then, it's close, and it may depends on the manufacturer.


ty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Dual 360s in this build.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir


ty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, here a shot I just did. Top a 30mm front 60mm. Give you a idea with space you can work with.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have any 45mm ones on hand.


ty.
does it fit a 90º curve on the top rad or take a picture PLEASE whit the case as if you where looking at it from the side of the window whit the rads on ? i can see i have some clearance but cant figure out the exact space .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/fractal-design-case-club/13810#post_24842596
> 
> 25mm (push) on top and 60mm (push/pull) in the front. Not sure what clearance would look like with a slimmer front radiator.
> 
> edit: Looking at it again, it looks like the front radiator would have to be about 25mm thinner than what I have (read: 60-25=35mm) to allow for the fans to clear each other. I'm going to venture to guess that dual 45mm rads will NOT fit in the Define S without some modding.


ty.

i have a link ( actualy i have 3 ) that a guys shows that he is using a 45mm in the front and a 30mm in the top ... but i dont know if i can link post and images from another forum\immage host !
can i ?

again thanks a lot , i just left the nightshift gona get some sleep, ill check all the links and reply !!!!


----------



## Velathawen

Have you guys managed to fit a 120/140 rad exhaust with a 360 (40mm) up top?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pulsarius*
> 
> thanks to everyone that lost a bit of his time to be able to help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does it fit a 90º curve on the top rad or take a picture PLEASE whit the case as if you where looking at it from the side of the window whit the rads on ? i can see i have some clearance but cant figure out the exact space .


Just give me a bit. I got to go take my dog to the vet today. When I get back I will mount them fully in and hunt one of my barbs out. Though, I don't think I have a spare 90 degree fitting on hand. Plus, put a mm ruler in there too so you can see the measurements.









I had no 90 degree fittings on hand.

Here more pics. Note: 60mm Alphacool rad and 30mm HWlab rad. Both 360.






I got one dislike on this case...I think the mount points for top rad are stupid. So I got plans to make me a nice metal bracket to move it back. Or a dremel going to taken to another part of this case.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I got one dislike on this case...I think the mount points for top rad are stupid. So I got plans to make me a nice metal bracket to move it back. Or a dremel going to taken to another part of this case.


I'm the exact opposite. I want to move the top radiator forward so that I can fit an exhaust fan on the back bracket. The barbs in place will not allow for it. Maybe I can flip the top radiator to have the barbs towards the front and use some 90deg fittings, but it's gonna be tight.


----------



## Ithanul

It would of been nice if they offered brackets for the case to reposition smaller rads.


----------



## Pulsarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Just give me a bit. I got to go take my dog to the vet today. When I get back I will mount them fully in and hunt one of my barbs out. Though, I don't think I have a spare 90 degree fitting on hand. Plus, put a mm ruler in there too so you can see the measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had no 90 degree fittings on hand.
> 
> Here more pics. Note: 60mm Alphacool rad and 30mm HWlab rad. Both 360.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got one dislike on this case...I think the mount points for top rad are stupid. So I got plans to make me a nice metal bracket to move it back. Or a dremel going to taken to another part of this case.


Omg your the best







thanks a lot mate !!!!
yes it will be very tight !! dont know if a 90º will fit there if you consider that you still need to place the fans on the top rad .

iam gona post the think that i talked in my previous post , hopefully i will not get banned from this forum







.

so this guy from the link below used a 45mm think in the front and a 30mm in the top the top rad is a normal one , by normal i mean not a crossflow. But even whit a crossflow that usialy have to 412mm to 413mm long in total, oposite to the "normal ones that usualy have 400mm+- long , i think i will have clearance to route a tube directly whit no acessories added from the bottom to the top . that said i would have to forget about the 60mm thick in the front and save it for another build .
this guys purge valve possition IT IS FREACKING GENIOUS ,i will defenetly place the purge valve there if i change to the 45mm on the front , and that would be a option i would not have by using the Phobya 360 G-Changer v2 cause it only have fittings in the ends and one of the sides.

link of the post , this is all his credit and the pics are from him aswell , the 3º link is from him lower down in the comments.

Original Post:.

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3fu88i/just_finished_my_define_s_custom/loop/

Pics direct link:.


http://imgur.com/t77uR


Pics from his comment:.


http://imgur.com/EJllc


hope this helps anyone!
Thanks.
Pulsarius.


----------



## Pulsarius

looking at that build that i linked ... i could fit a 45mm crossflow in the top ...







, dont know about the ram´s clearance







hopefully i will have help whit that from *Ithanul* since i will only build the system in begining of april (date that the parts will arrive from the states to portugal delivered personaly







.
this will be my system.
4x8gb gskill trident-x
asus crosshair formula z
fx-9370
fury x
fury
rads to chosen.
gpu blocks ek.
cpu block to be chosen, dont know if i should get the Heatkiller 4 acetal pro , or the EK supremacy RED!! any personal thoughts ??

the loop that iam thinking of doing is :.

Res->pump->front rad->top rad->cpu->fury x and fury in paralell->res.

any thoughts ?


----------



## Ithanul

Hey, no problem. Don't mind helping out when I can.









I still need to mess around with my layout a bit more. Trying to figure a way to smack a 120 rad on the back 360 in top and keep 60mm 360 in the front.







Might require me taking a dremel to something else. But o what the heck, I already cut up my Haf X so far. This case is cheaper than that one.









Out of all the rads I have I just don't have any spare 45mm thick ones. I need to correct that.







I got 120, 240, and 360 from 30mm thick and 60mm thick. Just no dang 45mm thick.

Hmmm, I do got some spare sheet metal. Maybe I need to go hunt out my Dad's welder. *Warning, might want to hide. Women on the hunt for a tool.*


----------



## Pulsarius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hey, no problem. Don't mind helping out when I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to mess around with my layout a bit more. Trying to figure a way to smack a 120 rad on the back 360 in top and keep 60mm 360 in the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might require me taking a dremel to something else. But o what the heck, I already cut up my Haf X so far. This case is cheaper than that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of all the rads I have I just don't have any spare 45mm thick ones. I need to correct that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 120, 240, and 360 from 30mm thick and 60mm thick. Just no dang 45mm thick.
> 
> Hmmm, I do got some spare sheet metal. Maybe I need to go hunt out my Dad's welder. *Warning, might want to hide. Women on the hunt for a tool.*


OMG , a woman whit tools ? Everyone run to the Hills fast







. JK.

You miss have been very helpful . if i need some More messures ill ask you and if you can and have time ofcourse.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hey, no problem. Don't mind helping out when I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still need to mess around with my layout a bit more. Trying to figure a way to smack a 120 rad on the back 360 in top and keep 60mm 360 in the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might require me taking a dremel to something else. But o what the heck, I already cut up my Haf X so far. This case is cheaper than that one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of all the rads I have I just don't have any spare 45mm thick ones. I need to correct that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got 120, 240, and 360 from 30mm thick and 60mm thick. Just no dang 45mm thick.
> 
> Hmmm, I do got some spare sheet metal. Maybe I need to go hunt out my Dad's welder. *Warning, might want to hide. Women on the hunt for a tool.*


I always thought you were male lol. Sorry.


----------



## DamyLv

updated my rig aesthetics


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I always thought you were male lol. Sorry.


No problem, I been mistaken in person.







I tend to have my hair super short and a tomboy in nature. My Mom could not get me into girlie stuff no matter how hard she tried. Was more of the Lego and Hot Wheels and go hunt frogs and lizards.


----------



## Mack42

Just got the Nano S. This is a nice little case. Going to be very tricky to find out which 280mm radiator fits in the front, though. Fractal states max 312mm height on it, but not sure how they derived that exactly.


----------



## snow99dohc

Been lurking around for awhile. Finally got my rig where I want it and decided to share.

i5-4690k @ 4.5 Ghz
Gigabyte Z97MX Gaming 5
8GB Hyper X
MSI R9 390 1100/1600
Evga 650 GQ
Corsair H100i V2 with Noctua NF-F12s
Fractal Define Mini with Fractal Venturis for case fans.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snow99dohc*


Link or tutorial on the side window? Is that tinted acrylic or smoked glass?


----------



## snow99dohc

Its a a piece of 0.093 in acrylic cut to size with 5% tint film. Mounted using 3m magnetic mounting tape.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snow99dohc*
> 
> Been lurking around for awhile. Finally got my rig where I want it and decided to share.
> 
> i5-4690k @ 4.5 Ghz
> Gigabyte Z97MX Gaming 5
> 8GB Hyper X
> MSI R9 390 1100/1600
> Evga 650 GQ
> Corsair H100i V2 with Noctua NF-F12s
> Fractal Define Mini with Fractal Venturis for case fans.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Welcome to OCN and very nice build! Glad to see someone else with the Venturi fans, they are lovely.


----------



## snow99dohc

They are a very nice fan. Between them and the noctuas the loudest thing in my case is my 3.5 drive at idle haha. The 390 does make just tiny bit of noise at load.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snow99dohc*
> 
> Its a a piece of 0.093 in acrylic cut to size with 5% tint film. Mounted using 3m magnetic mounting tape.


Beautiful.


----------



## mstrmind5

Owners of the white window Fractal R5, is the window side panel supposed to be a glossy or matte finish, and I guess the white finish on the main frame on the rest of the case?


----------



## nitrobg

Can the R4's fan controller handle 3x Yate Loon D14SM-12 ([email protected])?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> Owners of the white window Fractal R5, is the window side panel supposed to be a glossy or matte finish, and I guess the white finish on the main frame on the rest of the case?


all matte(except front door) which looks much better than glossy imo.


----------



## mstrmind5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> all matte(except front door) which looks much better than glossy imo.


I though so. Fractal sent me a replacemnet side panel that has a glossy type finish.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mstrmind5*
> 
> I though so. Fractal sent me a replacemnet side panel that has a glossy type finish.


weird, I don't think there's a version of R5 in gloss white. Mine is all matte(even with slight texture), definitely love it better than if it'd be glossy.

BTW, I haven't posted pics of my rig in this thread so here's few:


----------



## Frestoinc

any idea whether the define s side window panel fit into define r5?


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> any idea whether the define s side window panel fit into define r5?


The attachment mechanisms are different, so no. The R4 panels fit the S though.


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> The attachment mechanisms are different, so no. The R4 panels fit the S though.


damn, have to diy in that case...


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> damn, have to diy in that case...


The R5 looks like a good candidate for a full tempered glass side.

I scratched my Define S's side panel a bit, so I ended up removing the acrylic, cutting some of the mounting tabs, and repainted it with a matching black primer. I've got a piece of dark grey tempered glass coming from One Day Glass. They seem to be the cheapest that I found. I'm going to attach them using neodymium magnets in case I wanted to paint the whole case white this summer (automotive paint and clear coat).


----------



## Frestoinc

you mean define s?

well i wanted to "showcase" or see my water pump and reservoir, which is currently block by r5 window panel.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> you mean define s?
> 
> well i wanted to "showcase" or see my water pump and reservoir, which is currently block by r5 window panel.


No, i mean your R5. You can probably just mount a full sheet of glass to the side either using bolts or magnets since you have solid "rails" on the case itself.





This is versus the Define S, which has more holes.


----------



## Frestoinc

i get what you mean now. Tempered glass and some 3m magnetic tapes along the side and just stick it to the side?

thats a good idea!!!


----------



## Dimensive

Finally happy with my gaming rig...

Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2
Motherboard: MSI Z97M Gaming
CPU: Intel i5-4670K
Cooler: CRYORIG H7
RAM 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Series DDR3 2400MHz
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0
PSU: XFX XTR 550W
SSD: 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K
HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> i get what you mean now. Tempered glass and some 3m magnetic tapes along the side and just stick it to the side?
> 
> thats a good idea!!!


Magnetic tape may not be strong enough. I'm gluing neodymium magnets to my glass.


----------



## brazilianloser

Updated build in my Fractal Design Define S.


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Magnetic tape may not be strong enough. I'm gluing neodymium magnets to my glass.


The thought of just "sticking" the glass to the casing is a bit terrifying for me.









Maybe i'll go another route, buy an acrylic or pc sheet and drill 4 holes since the r5 already had them in place.


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Updated build in my Fractal Design Define S.


what kind of changes did you make?


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> what kind of changes did you make?


New CPU block, new runs even though they don't look like from that angle..., changed top rad to intake now that I have a top dust filter, front has fans on the outside for the extra space, mounted pump and res to the wall instead of the bottom as previously, added the drain to the actual line instead of using another port on the pump, new cables from Ensourced and added in a Hue +... and well the reason for all the change my new replacement board from MSI. Previous one died hence why I decided to clean up and fix up things I wish I had done the first go around. New intake method along with new cpu block has me sitting around 61c under load for my 5820k 4.5ghz. Which is a lot better then previously. Was hitting high 70s...


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> New CPU block, new runs even though they don't look like from that angle..., changed top rad to intake now that I have a top dust filter, front has fans on the outside for the extra space, mounted pump and res to the wall instead of the bottom as previously, added the drain to the actual line instead of using another port on the pump, new cables from Ensourced and added in a Hue +... and well the reason for all the change my new replacement board from MSI. Previous one died hence why I decided to clean up and fix up things I wish I had done the first go around. New intake method along with new cpu block has me sitting around 61c under load for my 5820k 4.5ghz. Which is a lot better then previously. Was hitting high 70s...


any idea that ~9c difference is due to top intake or new CPU block?

Coz if it is because of intake then i'll probably set the top just like you


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> any idea that ~9c difference is due to top intake or new CPU block?
> 
> Coz if it is because of intake then i'll probably set the top just like you


Well I think its mostly due to the new block. I was running the loop into the out port of my previous one for some unknown reason but even after I fixed that It was still hitting high 70s under load. This new one is full copper and the groves on the inside cover a much larger area so I think it is doing most of the hard work. Now though I am sure that the top intake is helping a bit too. We like to keep it cold here and having two fresh air intakes probably go a long way over that second rad dealing with only hot air as it was before. The only issue now is that the case is getting filled with hot air and there is nothing forcing it out. Had to move the top rad to align with the runs and by doing so it does not allow for a fan in the back as I had planned. A slim fan will do but I had none around so got to wait on Amazon to bring me one.


----------



## RnRollie

If you cut out the rear fan grille, you can mount the fan on the outside


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> The thought of just "sticking" the glass to the casing is a bit terrifying for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i'll go another route, buy an acrylic or pc sheet and drill 4 holes since the r5 already had them in place.


Here is another option.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> If you cut out the rear fan grille, you can mount the fan on the outside


No need. They got 15mm fans out there that will do the job just fine and Silverstone has one that is black and white which will match the build so we are all good. Thanks though.


----------



## snow99dohc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> The thought of just "sticking" the glass to the casing is a bit terrifying for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i'll go another route, buy an acrylic or pc sheet and drill 4 holes since the r5 already had them in place.


Acrylic and magnet tape works very well. My rig for reference.


----------



## Frestoinc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snow99dohc*
> 
> Acrylic and magnet tape works very well. My rig for reference.


that will be better.

So do you only apply the magnetic tape onto the acrylic or on both the acrylic and the case?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snow99dohc*
> 
> Acrylic and magnet tape works very well. My rig for reference.


I agree but my only issue with the magnetic tape was the air bubbles visible on the adhesive side. I just used some black electrical tape along the edges to cover it all up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Finally happy with my gaming rig...
> 
> Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2
> Motherboard: MSI Z97M Gaming
> CPU: Intel i5-4670K
> Cooler: CRYORIG H7
> RAM 16GB G.SKILL Sniper Series DDR3 2400MHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0
> PSU: XFX XTR 550W
> SSD: 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K
> HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
> OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional


YAY for another arc mini! 1 question though. How did you do your psu shroud? Metal, acrylic? Single piece bent or multiple pieces glued? I'd love one for mine so any info you can share would be great, such as size/s?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I agree but my only issue with the magnetic tape was the air bubbles visible on the adhesive side. I just used some black electrical tape along the edges to cover it all up.
> YAY for another arc mini! 1 question though. How did you do your psu shroud? Metal, acrylic? Single piece bent or multiple pieces glued? I'd love one for mine so any info you can share would be great, such as size/s?


Arc Mini is the best! I actually bought the shroud from a guy on eBay. He makes them for the R4/R5, but he cut one to size for me. It's a single piece of metal that has been bent. He asked for pics of the one that he sent me, so I believe he is thinking about making them for the Arc Mini as well.


----------



## snow99dohc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> that will be better.
> 
> So do you only apply the magnetic tape onto the acrylic or on both the acrylic and the case?


Just the acrylic.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Arc Mini is the best! I actually bought the shroud from a guy on eBay. He makes them for the R4/R5, but he cut one to size for me. It's a single piece of metal that has been bent. He asked for pics of the one that he sent me, so I believe he is thinking about making them for the Arc Mini as well.


Awesome. Think you can pm me a link to him so I can ask for one? How much was it if I might ask.

I'll post some pics of my rig a bit later.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Awesome. Think you can pm me a link to him so I can ask for one? How much was it if I might ask.
> 
> I'll post some pics of my rig a bit later.


Sure thing. It was $28 shipped.


----------



## DI360

Upgrade from


----------



## Volvo

Stand by...


----------



## siox69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DI360*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> may i ask what size of the copper tubes and fittings you used in your copper water cooling build?
> great work by the way!
> im planning to replace copper tubes also!
> 
> Upgrade from


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Volvo*
> 
> Stand by...


love your nickname and avatar


----------



## Volvo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> love your nickname and avatar


Thank you


----------



## DI360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siox69*


12/10mm, they are Nanoxia CoolForce, Barrow multilinks and 90° fittings.

Get a proper tool for bending them, my was crap and it doesn't result how i expected.

UV Copper Dye is from Mayhems it's not at sell at the moment i think.


----------



## RUIvan

Hello!

I'd like to hear your thoughts about my future build in Fractal R5:

1. Msi Z170a xpower gaming
2. I7 6700k
3. 2*16gb ddr4 corsair vngeance lpx
4. SLI 2*Asus Strix 970 OC
5. Corsair PSU HX 1000i (1000w)
6. 512gb Samsung 850 Pro for system (gonna dual boot hacintosh and Win10)

Cooling:
Noctua NH U12s for cpu (1 fan, vertical orientation)
3xNoctua NH A14FLX - 2 for front (air in) and 1 for rear (air out).

Questions:
1. Is there any reason to watercool 95W Skylake?
2. Is there any reason to use NH D15 or NH D15s for 95W Skylake
3. Is SLI config going to feel cool in this configuration or r5 is a bad idea and Silverstone FT05 is going to be much better?
4. Is there any info about adding more coolers to the bottom or to the top. i mean efficiency.
5. What about cooler on the cover - is there any dust filter. Is its main purpose to cool gpus?


----------



## DI360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I'd like to hear your thoughts about my future build in Fractal R5:
> 
> 1. Msi Z170a xpower gaming
> 2. I7 6700k
> 3. 2*16gb ddr4 corsair vngeance lpx
> 4. SLI 2*Asus Strix 970 OC
> 5. Corsair PSU HX 1000i (1000w)
> 6. 512gb Samsung 850 Pro for system (gonna dual boot hacintosh and Win10)
> 
> Cooling:
> Noctua NH U12s for cpu (1 fan, vertical orientation)
> 3xNoctua NH A14FLX - 2 for front (air in) and 1 for rear (air out).
> 
> Questions:
> 1. Is there any reason to watercool 95W Skylake?
> 2. Is there any reason to use NH D15 or NH D15s for 95W Skylake
> 3. Is SLI config going to feel cool in this configuration or r5 is a bad idea and Silverstone FT05 is going to be much better?
> 4. Is there any info about adding more coolers to the bottom or to the top. i mean efficiency.
> 5. What about cooler on the cover - is there any dust filter. Is its main purpose to cool gpus?


Better go with a single 980ti


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I'd like to hear your thoughts about my future build in Fractal R5:
> 
> 1. Msi Z170a xpower gaming
> 2. I7 6700k
> 3. 2*16gb ddr4 corsair vngeance lpx
> 4. SLI 2*Asus Strix 970 OC
> 5. Corsair PSU HX 1000i (1000w)
> 6. 512gb Samsung 850 Pro for system (gonna dual boot hacintosh and Win10)
> 
> Cooling:
> Noctua NH U12s for cpu (1 fan, vertical orientation)
> 3xNoctua NH A14FLX - 2 for front (air in) and 1 for rear (air out).
> 
> Questions:
> 1. Is there any reason to watercool 95W Skylake?
> 2. Is there any reason to use NH D15 or NH D15s for 95W Skylake
> 3. Is SLI config going to feel cool in this configuration or r5 is a bad idea and Silverstone FT05 is going to be much better?
> 4. Is there any info about adding more coolers to the bottom or to the top. i mean efficiency.
> 5. What about cooler on the cover - is there any dust filter. Is its main purpose to cool gpus?


Didn't wanna say anything but I agree. Single card always better than dual. Get a 980ti.


----------



## RUIvan

Many thx for answers! I already have 1 970 in my current build. So I was going to get another for more gpu power in games. That is why I ask so many questions about cooling in R5


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Many thx for answers! I already have 1 970 in my current build. So I was going to get another for more gpu power in games. That is why I ask so many questions about cooling in R5


Unless you need the optical drive cages or have a ton of HDDs, I'd say get the Define S instead. I have a few HDDs, but I ended up mounting them in an external USB 3.0 enclosure. It's just as fast as internal SATA.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Many thx for answers! I already have 1 970 in my current build. So I was going to get another for more gpu power in games. That is why I ask so many questions about cooling in R5


Personally I think R5 is very well cooled. I had 2 front fans running on lowest setting(built in fan controller), rear fan operating @ around 900rpm(pull) and two top fans as pull @ around 700 rpm. all fans were 140mm fractal design GP14.
Two radeons r9 270x crossfired.
Temps were really good, no hot air trapped inside the case at all.


----------



## RUIvan

Thx again for answers! Define S is a great case, but I' m going to use optical drive and 2-3 hdds for large data.
Glad to here that crossfired radeons feels fine in R5. So I guess 970 SLI will be fine also


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Thx again for answers! Define S is a great case, but I' m going to use optical drive and 2-3 hdds for large data.
> Glad to here that crossfired radeons feels fine in R5. So I guess 970 SLI will be fine also


I can see you are gonna use quite long psu so extra fan in the floor of the case is not an option(it would be the best option to give extra cooling to your 970's), however you can attach 120mm fan to the hdd cage which will be pretty close to both geforces and give noticeable temp drop.
Define S is cool with its full window and better for watercooling but it comes only in boring black... White option for R5 was a deal breaker for me. Georgous case.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Thx again for answers! Define S is a great case, but I' m going to use optical drive and 2-3 hdds for large data.
> Glad to here that crossfired radeons feels fine in R5. So I guess 970 SLI will be fine also


The Define S has the ability to house up to 5 drives. Two being SSD only mounts but the other three are able to house either HDD or SSD drives. As far as optical drives go unless you already got one and external one works just as well... Been rocking an Asus Bluray External ordeal here with amazing speeds and from time to time I can Just unplug it, hide the wires under the desk and move on with my day with one less thing clustering my desk and my pc. Just an opinion though.


----------



## RUIvan

Thx again for valuable comments about PSU length and Define S! Actually I use optical drive less than 10 times in a year - so - yes - I will think about external optical drive as an option. For PSU options - I'm gonna check not so long PSU also.

P.s.
brazilianloser, you have very nice looking pc - awesome piece of building!)


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Thx again for valuable comments about PSU length and Define S! Actually I use optical drive less than 10 times in a year - so - yes - I will think about external optical drive as an option. For PSU options - I'm gonna check not so long PSU also.
> 
> P.s.
> brazilianloser, you have very nice looking pc - awesome piece of building!)


The Corsair PSU looks to be the same size as my EVGA G2, so you should be able to fit a 120mm fan at the bottom of the Define S with it. I managed to mount a Fractal Design Venturi HP-14 on the floor, offset, through some of the grill holes using the provided 120mm fan mounts that come with the 140mm fan.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> P.s.
> brazilianloser, you have very nice looking pc - awesome piece of building!)


Thank you. It has changed a little for the better since those pictures on the rig there were taken.


----------



## The Pook

My backup rig is held in a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2. Recently rebuilt it and the cable combs/last of the extensions came today.









other than possibly matching front fans/a few more cable combs/paint the SFX-ATX adapter/sleeving my front panel wiring I'm not gonna spend much more money on aesthetics.

My CPU heatsink is on the way too but it won't be here 'til next week.

I'm considering breaking the blue LEDs on my RAM (didn't know they came with blue LEDs until I turned the system on for the first time







) since it ruins the black/white theme but not sure yet. And the white LED strips have the least sticky tape on them I've ever seen so I had to take them out until I get some tape other than electrical or duct tape


----------



## Weber

New Define S build. X99-deluxe/5960X Dual Titan X, 4xraid 0 ssd windows 7. Water cooled with three rads in one loop, 1x140mm + 2x120mm + 3*120mm. Doing leak test atm. GPU's cooler than stock blower, down 30c on 100% load (folding). The green fluid is super tech antifreeze + mayhem dyes ( uv green + uv blue).


----------



## Fear Before

I'm thinking about stepping up from my Core 1000 and doing a new build in a Define S. Heres what I'm thinking..

i5 6600k
MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon
8GB DDR4 HyperX Fury @2400
EVGA GTX 970 FTW+
Corsair RM650X
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
WD Blue 500GB for extra storage
Windows 10

Any suggestions for coolers that will be better than stock but not break the bank? I won't be doing anything too crazy, just looking for decent cooling and quiet, but not too big and bulky. Also it would be a plus if it matched the Black/White color scheme, but it's not a deal breaker if it doesn't. Any other thoughts on this build?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> I'm thinking about stepping up from my Core 1000 and doing a new build in a Define S. Heres what I'm thinking..
> 
> i5 6600k
> MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon
> 8GB DDR4 HyperX Fury @2400
> EVGA GTX 970 FTW+
> Corsair RM650X
> Samsung 850 EVO 250GB
> WD Blue 500GB for extra storage
> Windows 10
> 
> Any suggestions for coolers that will be better than stock but not break the bank? I won't be doing anything too crazy, just looking for decent cooling and quiet, but not too big and bulky. Also it would be a plus if it matched the Black/White color scheme, but it's not a deal breaker if it doesn't. Any other thoughts on this build?


CRYORIG M9i or CRYORIG H7 are great coolers that match your color scheme. The H7 is bulky, but not massive like 140mm coolers are.


----------



## delslow

Anyone have any ideas on where to place LEDs on the Define S once radiators and fans are installed? I can't seem to find a good spot anywhere so I ended putting them on the side panel, but this is very clunky and I kinda hate how the edges light up in that pattern because of the location of the LEDs. Any ideas?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on where to place LEDs on the Define S once radiators and fans are installed? I can't seem to find a good spot anywhere so I ended putting them on the side panel, but this is very clunky and I kinda hate how the edges light up in that pattern because of the location of the LEDs. Any ideas?


Honestly I don't think it looks like that bad. Sorta dig the edging.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on where to place LEDs on the Define S once radiators and fans are installed? I can't seem to find a good spot anywhere so I ended putting them on the side panel, but this is very clunky and I kinda hate how the edges light up in that pattern because of the location of the LEDs. Any ideas?


I have two strips, one 60cm and one 30mm. The 60cm strip straddles the inside front of the case and top of the window side of the case where it slides in between the top case lip and the radiator. The 30cm strip is behind the top radiator and above the CPU area.


----------



## RUIvan

Hello, everybody

I have one more question about Define R5. What about stock fans - how good are they? Is it necessary to change them for something like NF-A14flx?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Hello, everybody
> 
> I have one more question about Define R5. What about stock fans - how good are they? Is it necessary to change them for something like NF-A14flx?


I've had 5 of them running in my case. Two front connected to the built-in fan controller(running at lowest speed), two top and a rear one connected to motherboard(idling around 900 rpm). Never experienced anything near hot air trapped inside the case, these fans are really quiet and reasonable performing. only reason I removed them is going full custom loop with 120mm higher speed fans.
Keeping them in the drawer 'just in case', don't wanna sell them as they are very good. A lot of ppl sell them when they buy R5 so you can grab a couple of brand new ones for really cheap.


----------



## RUIvan

Many thx for reply. I am going to use just 3fans. 2 front and 1 rear. Are top fans necessary?
What is the efficiency of adding 2 top coolers? (I guess adding top fans would increase noise level)


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Many thx for reply. I am going to use just 3fans. 2 front and 1 rear. Are top fans necessary?
> What is the efficiency of adding 2 top coolers? (I guess adding top fans would increase noise level)


they are unaudible at 800-900 rpm. if you don't use top vents then it will bemore quiet as they are covered with 'moduvent'. 3 fans will be enough(possibly you need to set them to 2 or 3 speed of fan controller, or spin them a bit higher if controlling from mobo), I just had 5 to run them at lowest possible speed and be whisper quiet.


----------



## Transmaniacon

I was all but set on the Nano S, but the limited clearance between the GPU and PSU have me concerned. Is anyone having issues with their GPU running hot due to partially blocked airflow?

Also I currently have a SeaSonic X-850 PSU and it is 160mm long, will that block the grommet at the bottom or will I have enough room to run cables through it?


----------



## Daggi

Made some small changes to my loop today. I think it looks cleaner now. Just finished a stress test in AIDA 64 and didn't get over 61°C


----------



## Frestoinc

nice vlog from jay for the define nano


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frestoinc*
> 
> nice vlog from jay for the define nano


Yeah I liked that build. Very clean and that glass tubing looks pretty.


----------



## MLJS54

What is the best way to mount a Corsair H100i in a R4 in order to achieve optimal temps - top or front of the case?


----------



## RnRollie

Well.. i would "mount" the Corsair H100i in the trashcan outside and get a decent WC kit to start with..., but....

it doesn't matter , Front or Top.. whatever is the easiest to fit... and you moutn the fans as INTAKE , so the rad gets fresh air from outside the case.


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Well.. i would "mount" the Corsair H100i in the trashcan outside and get a decent WC kit to start with..., but....
> 
> it doesn't matter , Front or Top.. whatever is the easiest to fit... and you moutn the fans as INTAKE , so the rad gets fresh air from outside the case.


if you have enough fans to exhaust all the hot air the radiator will put into the case, then you have enough fans to supply it with cool air in the first place. i suggest exhausting hot air to the outside to keep your other components cool (esp gpu)


----------



## ticallista

[Deleted]


----------



## Gunfire

Hey guys,

I'll be ordering one of the Define R5's in the next day or so and was wondering how silent they really are? I'll be running the rig 24/7 in the room I sleep in so the silence is key..

The fan config I would be looking to run are 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM as intake/exhaust with a NH-D15 as the cooler. I saw a couple users in the thread had pretty much that exact set-up and was hoping they'd be able to chime in!

Thanks!


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunfire*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'll be ordering one of the Define R5's in the next day or so and was wondering how silent they really are? I'll be running the rig 24/7 in the room I sleep in so the silence is key..
> 
> The fan config I would be looking to run are 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM as intake/exhaust with a NH-D15 as the cooler. I saw a couple users in the thread had pretty much that exact set-up and was hoping they'd be able to chime in!
> 
> Thanks!


the case is very quiet. It's the stuff in it that makes noise









The loudest thing in my case at idle is one of my older WD Caviar Black HDDs. Second loudest are my CPU cooler fans and they are quiet but not silent. Graphics card is silent at idle. PSU fan has a hybrid silent mode but I have it running and cannot hear it. parts details are in my sig. Keep in mind my case is on top of the desk about 30 inches from eye level so I can hear anything. If it was on the floor I doubt I'd hear the HDDs.


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Well.. i would "mount" the Corsair H100i in the trashcan outside and get a decent WC kit to start with..., but....
> 
> it doesn't matter , Front or Top.. whatever is the easiest to fit... and you moutn the fans as INTAKE , so the rad gets fresh air from outside the case.
> 
> 
> 
> if you have enough fans to exhaust all the hot air the radiator will put into the case, then you have enough fans to supply it with cool air in the first place. i suggest exhausting hot air to the outside to keep your other components cool (esp gpu)
Click to expand...

hmm yeah.. but the picture is a bit more complex as that... fan type/make, performance, filters, grilles etc come into the equation
To minimise the number crunching, set Rads as intake, then at least you dont ahve to worry about them getting enough "fresh" air

And about "hot" air into the case.... unless you've got a really fantastically performing radiator (and ALU CLC rads are NOT) then the air exiting the rad will be no more as 2`C "hotter" as the air coming in from outside the case...
Most of the time the air inside the case gets way "hotter" than that by the GPU dumping & recycling the air in a badly ventilated case, unless its a reference GPU with a squirrel-cage fan

In general, and thus also for ARC/DEFINE series, following setup gives best cooling
FRONT: Intake
BOTTOM(floor) : Intake
REAR: Exhaust
TOP: None or Intake
SIDE: Not needed. In multi GPU setups, INTAKE will be most helpful. In Single non-reference GPU setup, if you dont mind some cardboard ducting, exhaust is an option.

With Rads: the same -INTAKE- , Rad mounted either vertically in the Front, or horizontally in the TOP.


----------



## BlackPH

Hi!
Can anybody measure exact internal height of Define S?
I`m looking to this two 360 build where these boys are 400 of length

and 30 mm thick (which equal 55 mm needed top clearance)
and thinking of putting in Define S one Coolgate 420 60mm thick on top (with fans mouned outside) and EK PE 360 (38 mm thick) to front.
So it`s 5 mm deal








No push\pull of cause )


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackPH*
> 
> Hi!
> Can anybody measure exact internal height of Define S?
> I`m looking to this two 360 build where these boys are 400 of length
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and 30 mm thick (which equal 55 mm needed top clearance)
> and thinking of putting in Define S one Coolgate 420 60mm thick on top (with fans mouned outside) and EK PE 360 (38 mm thick) to front.
> So it`s 5 mm deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No push\pull of cause )


Its about 17 and 1/2 inches from top to bottom in the inside of the case.


----------



## BlackPH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Its about 17 and 1/2 inches from top to bottom in the inside of the case.


which is 445 mm. On pic above it seems not less then 455


----------



## Dimensive

Does anyone have Fractal Design Venturi High Flow Series 140mm fans? 2 out of the 3 I own started making an annoying noise within 4 months of ownership. One has been replaced by FD already, and within the same week the other started making the same noise as if the fan is just barely hitting something or is off balance (I suppose). This noise continues when the fan is outside of the case, so I know 100% it's not tightened too tight and hitting the top of the case.


----------



## scc28

hi all, not as fancy as most but heres my New Arc XL build:



Built so I can fold.

its a cheap as chips build,

i7 3930k @ 4.2

Asus Rampage iv extreme

16gb Corsair Vengeance

EVGA gtx 980 sc acx 2.0

Corsair H110 AIO (I know Its not proper water cooling, but I wanted a quick fix and it ws cheap

OCZ zx 850w PSU

all second hand from ebay


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scc28*
> 
> hi all, not as fancy as most but heres my New Arc XL build:
> 
> 
> 
> Built so I can fold.
> 
> its a cheap as chips build,
> 
> i7 3930k @ 4.2
> 
> Asus Rampage iv extreme
> 
> 16gb Corsair Vengeance
> 
> EVGA gtx 980 sc acx 2.0
> 
> Corsair H110 AIO (I know Its not proper water cooling, but I wanted a quick fix and it ws cheap
> 
> OCZ zx 850w PSU
> 
> all second hand from ebay


Nice and clean! You may want to check the RAM slots though so it's operating in quad-channel mode.


----------



## brazilianloser

@scc28
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> You may want to check the RAM slots though so it's operating in quad-channel mode.


What this guy said.


----------



## lagittaja

Yep, right now you're running the memory in dual channel. To have the memory in quad channel, move the sticks from D2+C2 > A1+B1.
Or in other words, use only the red slots with four sticks of memory.



The letters A, B, C and D mean the memory channels, your CPU's memory controller is quad channel hence four letters.
A1 for example means channel A slot 1. Where as D2 would mean channel D slot 2.
Generally you only want to have a single memory stick per memory channel.
And since you have four sticks of memory and your CPU has a quad channel memory controller, it makes the most sense to utilize all of the memory channels.

It does not make a whole lot of difference performance wise, since really, the difference between dual and quad channel in the _*real world*_ is rather quite small.
http://www.legitreviews.com/ddr3-memory-performance-analysis-on-intel-x79_1779
http://www.hardwarezone.com/feature-memory-channel-scaling-sandy-bridge-e-core-i7-3960x-experience/results-sysmark-2007-preview-lightwave-3d-90
Sure there's a huge difference in bandwidth when you go from dual to quad channel but it's not gonna show up in the workloads of the real world we all are living in unless the workload actually needs and can utilize that higher bandwidth.

The "bigger" difference in your situation would be that, like I mentioned above, it's generally best to have only one memory stick per memory channel.
If you have TWO sticks of memory in a single memory channel, it's going to put a bigger load on the memory controller compared to running one stick of memory per memory channel.
That can, for example, impact the highest CPU overclock you could achieve!

But of course, running the memory like that is OK. It's gonna work just fine and dandy! It's not going to break anything! We're just nitpicking here.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> We're just nitpicking here.


And, "we" are good at it







The details make a difference, and without the "NitPicking" the details would be lost.


----------



## scc28

cheers guys, ive swapped it all over now so its the right way!


----------



## lurker2501

What rivet size do FD cases use? I need to buy some to re-rivet my Arc case.


----------



## Williamea

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunfire*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'll be ordering one of the Define R5's in the next day or so and was wondering how silent they really are? I'll be running the rig 24/7 in the room I sleep in so the silence is key..
> 
> The fan config I would be looking to run are 3x Noctua NF-A14 PWM as intake/exhaust with a NH-D15 as the cooler. I saw a couple users in the thread had pretty much that exact set-up and was hoping they'd be able to chime in!
> 
> Thanks!


I just moved to this case from a corsair 600T specifically to cut down on noise and could not be happier. It is VERY quiet. I added an extra 140mm in the front have 2 of the 3 vents open on the top as that is where I mounted my H100i(Fans are mounted on top of the rad pulling air).


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Williamea*
> 
> I just moved to this case from a corsair 600T specifically to cut down on noise and could not be happier. It is VERY quiet.
> I added an extra 140mm in the front have 2 of the 3 vents open on the top as that is where I mounted my H100i(Fans are mounted on top of the rad pulling air).


This is a Fractal Design Club... which means all their cases... So stating which case you moved into it would be better suited to put your point across. Just a friendly heads up.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> This is a Fractal Design Club... which means all their cases... So stating which case you moved into it would be better suited to put your point across. Just a friendly heads up.


Since his reply was to someone saying they have an R5, I'm gonna guess it's an R5.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Since his reply was to someone saying they have an R5, I'm gonna guess it's an R5.


He fixed his comment after I said something... as in there was no quote or statement of what case he was talking about, and it wasn't an attempt of being a douche was jsut letting him know so that he would fix his comment nothing more nothing less.


----------



## Lodbroke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> Having a Node 605 (The HTPC case) but can't get the Card reader to work...
> It's properly connected to the Motherboard, sometimes it find the card reader but Win7 reports it as an unidentified unit (Sorry guys my Win7 is all in swedish)?
> Sometimes Win7 doesn't react at all when inserting a card. No difference between 32GB SDHC or 2GB SD.
> Win7 have reported that it needs drivers, haven't found any drivers at Fractal Design site.


Found the problem myself









It was the molex for powering the card reader that was damaged.
On of the pins had been pushed out and was loose.

Edit: The Moles that was from FD
Edit 2: Molex


----------



## Gunfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> the case is very quiet. It's the stuff in it that makes noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The loudest thing in my case at idle is one of my older WD Caviar Black HDDs. Second loudest are my CPU cooler fans and they are quiet but not silent. Graphics card is silent at idle. PSU fan has a hybrid silent mode but I have it running and cannot hear it. parts details are in my sig. Keep in mind my case is on top of the desk about 30 inches from eye level so I can hear anything. If it was on the floor I doubt I'd hear the HDDs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Williamea*
> 
> I just moved to this case from a corsair 600T specifically to cut down on noise and could not be happier. It is VERY quiet. I added an extra 140mm in the front have 2 of the 3 vents open on the top as that is where I mounted my H100i(Fans are mounted on top of the rad pulling air).


Perfect! Thanks a ton guys, OnTrac says my case should be here by the end of the day so I'm definitely looking forward to that!

Will update with pics soon


----------



## Dan-H

Current pictures after some updates this weekend with some more details here.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> Found the problem myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was the molex for powering the card reader that was damaged.
> On of the pins had been pushed out and was loose.
> 
> Edit: The Moles that was from FD
> Edit 2: Molex


Can't wait for the day that Molex connections go away.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Can't wait for the day that Molex connections go away.


No kidding... Such a big bulky, useless connector...


----------



## Gunfire

I've gotta say, this is one of my favorite case that I've worked with so far..

Front IO cables are perfect length, entire build felt extremely sturdy too.

The fans that came with it are meh, I'll probably get those Noctua's and the DH15 next week sometime when I have a chance to order them, then it should truly be silent.

I'll post pics of the insides tomorrow in the light, even though it's nothing special









Overall one of my favorite cases that I've owned, very, very close to the PC-O8 that I just sold..


----------



## RUIvan

Why DH-15? DH-U14s is smaller and has the same performance. My new build


----------



## Gunfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RUIvan*
> 
> Why DH-15? DH-U14s is smaller and has the same performance.


I did consider the 14s, but after reading a few reviews with benchmarks I was seeing a difference of 5* between them, plus I plan on bumping my clock up to 4.7 when I get my new PSU.

Here's everything in my new R5, I gotta say I really do love this case. The SSD brackets on the back were pretty nifty as well


















Next plans are:

Noctua Fans
Noctua Heatsink
EVGA SuperNova G2
Mainframe Custom Extensions
2x WD Red 4TB in Raid 1

Then I think I'll be content, for a while that is


----------



## orlfman

my node 804. love the case. small but so versatile and can fit so much.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackPH*
> 
> Hi!
> Can anybody measure exact internal height of Define S?
> I`m looking to this two 360 build where these boys are 400 of length
> 
> and 30 mm thick (which equal 55 mm needed top clearance)
> and thinking of putting in Define S one Coolgate 420 60mm thick on top (with fans mouned outside) and EK PE 360 (38 mm thick) to front.
> So it`s 5 mm deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No push\pull of cause )


Won't you have an issue with the fittings right where the rads meet in the front, or will the fittings be on the rear end?


----------



## Bigjk47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my node 804. love the case. small but so versatile and can fit so much.


Very simple and clean, I love it!









I am showcasing my very first Fractal build in the intel build logs "Project Invictus" http://www.overclock.net/t/1596813/project-invictus-all-white-everything-fractile-define-r5-white-window-build#post_25056206
It will be "All White Everything"
I must say this is one of the best cases I have ever built in







I am very pleased. I would compair the quality to Phanteks if not better!


----------



## Danzle

Started to build in my R5 yesterday. Really nice case to work with but the cables that come with the RM850i just don't go well with this case since they are thick and stiff.


----------



## happyrichie

a sneak peek of my 804 fanless server build



thats a thermometer sticking out of the cpu heat sink and yes their are fans in it while im setting it up


----------



## Benjiw

My girlfriend did her first watercooling loop 2 days ago, turned out pretty well tbh, kinda jealous!
Specs: Intel i5 6600K - Z170 Asus Sabertooth - EVGA GTX 970 FTW - DDR4 3000MHz CL15 - Samsung SM951 128GB Boot & WD Blue 4TB storage - EVGA 750W G2 - Fractal Design Define S



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## delrey

Hi there! I just bought Arc XL from my friend, builded system.
When i power the system, the power button led began to blink red. As i remmember, it was blue when i was at friedns house.
Have i did something wrong? Is that red for some warning?
I cant ask friend right now because he got sick
Thanks


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delrey*
> 
> Hi there! I just bought Arc XL from my friend, builded system.
> When i power the system, the power button led began to blink red. As i remmember, it was blue when i was at friedns house.
> Have i did something wrong? Is that red for some warning?
> I cant ask friend right now because he got sick
> Thanks


http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/arc-series/arc-midi-r2

*Front interface*

2 - USB 3.0
Audio in/out
Power button with LED (blue)
*HDD activity LED (red)*
Reset button
Fan controller


----------



## Benjiw

Has anyone had any success what so ever in fitting a 420 rad in the top of the Define S? Because I got a EKWB CE 420mm rad today to find it will not fit in any way shape of form, length ways, width height, nah nothing.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Has anyone had any success what so ever in fitting a 420 rad in the top of the Define S? Because I got a EKWB CE 420mm rad today to find it will not fit in any way shape of form, length ways, width height, nah nothing.


This guy got his Magicool 420 to fit, which is 463mm long. Yours is 460. Thickness issue?


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/3a9mfn/build_help_trouble_with_define_s_and_420mm_rad/


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> This guy got his Magicool 420 to fit, which is 463mm long. Yours is 460. Thickness issue?
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/3a9mfn/build_help_trouble_with_define_s_and_420mm_rad/


Possible, it's 15mm to thick but not sure what to do next other than order a thinner rad then use the 420 I've scuffed up in another build. Think I'll ditch the Define S for a case labs if I can, I might ask the acrylic gods over at Parvum for some help on making me a a custom acrylic top to give the define S some much needed height.


----------



## Bigjk47

Project Invictus Define R5 (all white) is almost done, follow the build on instagram @h2ocomputers or here on OCN intel build logs


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Possible, it's 15mm to thick but not sure what to do next other than order a thinner rad then use the 420 I've scuffed up in another build. Think I'll ditch the Define S for a case labs if I can, I might ask the acrylic gods over at Parvum for some help on making me a a custom acrylic top to give the define S some much needed height.


I honestly wouldn't mind if the case was 1.5in taller.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I honestly wouldn't mind if the case was 1.5in taller.


I would love an extra 85mm if possible, then I'd fit a phobya G Changer with the added height the front could be modded to take a bigger rad too.


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, the Define S could use a tide bit more space, but can't be to upset considering what you get for a case at its price. Though, I have full plans to take a dremel to mine here soon. Going to smack a EATX board in there no matter what.


----------



## Jidonsu

No kidding, I have a 360 and a 280 crammed in there. I didn't want to risk dual 360s with the layout I wanted. Dual 420s would've been amazing.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> No kidding, I have a 360 and a 280 crammed in there. I didn't want to risk dual 360s with the layout I wanted. Dual 420s would've been amazing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build here's an old pic of mine with dual 360's but my gf has borrowed mine for a good while lol.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Gf's build with the top xflow 360.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> No kidding, I have a 360 and a 280 crammed in there. I didn't want to risk dual 360s with the layout I wanted. Dual 420s would've been amazing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hehe, I am going to shove two 360 rads into mine. Going to be quite a bit of dremel time going on.









Very nice build though you got there.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Hehe, I am going to shove two 360 rads into mine. Going to be quite a bit of dremel time going on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice build though you got there.


You don't need to dremel the define S to fit 2x 360mm rads, if you use a thin 30mm rad up top you can even use a thicker 360 on the front.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You don't need to dremel the define S to fit 2x 360mm rads, if you use a thin 30mm rad up top you can even use a thicker 360 on the front.


I don't like how the top lines up. Plus, the top getting modded anyways.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I don't like how the top lines up. Plus, the top getting modded anyways.


What do you have in mind?


----------



## dervladimir

For Info, Define S:

_• radiator - 360х60 mm (EK-XE)
• fans - 25 mm (EK-V)_


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> What do you have in mind?


The top rad mounting positions being moved back or forward not sure yet (don't like the default mount point). Then probably either going to make a top cover that covers the open gap by the radiator, or I may straight up do what I did to my Haf X's top. Cut the whole thing open and make my own bracket for the radiator.







At least this case was cheaper than my main rig's Haf X (I have cut quite a bit on that case, still not done modding that one either).


----------



## dervladimir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> The top rad mounting positions being moved back or forward not sure yet (don't like the default mount point).


Holes under 120+ rad's&#8230; can't move.


----------



## Ithanul

Not talking about those holes. Either going to move the radiator toward the front of the case (closer to the other radiator) or to the back of the case. Like I said I don't like the default mount points. So dremel and drill being taken to the case. Going to anyways since I am going to be cutting up near the motherboard area so I can get the EATX motherboard in there.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dervladimir*
> 
> For Info, Define S:
> 
> _• radiator - 360х60 mm (EK-XE)
> • fans - 25 mm (EK-V)_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


360s are fine because they're thin enough not to hit the rear IO plate, when you use a 420 up top it will sit above the rear IO plate which has 30mm or so clearance from the roof. This is the issue I'm having.


----------



## k0k0

Hi all, Im thinking to buy this case Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 and I want to install a AIO cooling system, like Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate (3x120) and I want to confirm that this radiator fix in the top of this case, if not me second option could be a 2x140 AIO system, I know that can install a 2x120 radiator like Corsair H105 but I would like to install the best performance system that can be installed in this case (on the top of this case) only AIO system.

I need to use the 2x5.25" and 6x2,5" bays so can´t be removed.

advices?

many thanks and br


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k0k0*
> 
> Hi all, Im thinking to buy this case Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 and I want to install a AIO cooling system, like Thermaltake Water 3.0 Ultimate (3x120) and I want to confirm that this radiator fix in the top of this case, if not me second option could be a 2x140 AIO system, I know that can install a 2x120 radiator like Corsair H105 but I would like to install the best performance system that can be installed in this case (on the top of this case) only AIO system.
> 
> advices?
> 
> many thanks and br


Only issue with an AIO 140mm is I'm assuming 1 is for the GPU? If so there might be an issue with hose length reaching the top of the case. Yes you can install 2 140s up there though.


----------



## k0k0

In order to install a 2x140 AIO like Corsair H110i GTX I need to make addtional holes in the top of the case?


----------



## k0k0

all my questions solved


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k0k0*
> 
> all my questions solved


Yeah. You're good with a 280mm rad. I guess I read you other post wrong. It sounded as if you wanted 2 individual 140mm rads. Again, in that case hoses from a gpu might not reach.


----------



## BlackPH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 360s are fine because they're thin enough not to hit the rear IO plate, when you use a 420 up top it will sit above the rear IO plate which has 30mm or so clearance from the roof. This is the issue I'm having.


Yep, I`ve heard of those I\O problems
But from the other side - many managed to do this with slim (30 mm) 420 rads. I even thought to give a try to my Coolgate 420 60mm and put fans up the top but changed my mind and going to do two 360 (one will be EK PE 360, for other - hav not decided yet).
Check this out



http://imgur.com/vGMzZ


----------



## Camberwell

Does anyone know if there are plans for a Define XL R3? I was looking at the XL R2 and it ticks all the boxes for me but I see that it was released 3 years ago, so I was just wondering if there would be a newer version coming....


----------



## -terabyte-

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> Does anyone know if there are plans for a Define XL R3? I was looking at the XL R2 and it ticks all the boxes for me but I see that it was released 3 years ago, so I was just wondering if there would be a newer version coming....


Yeah, I've been wondering the same for a while. An updated XL R3 with some upgrades like the one from R4 to R5 would be really nice to see.


----------



## PC4CAB

Folks,

I'm interested in the Fractal Design Define S for a new build I'm planning. I've tried searching for the answer, but haven't had any luck, so my apologies in advance if this has been answered somewhere and I missed it.

I'd like to mount a 360mm radiator at the top, but for the life of me can't seem to figure out if a push/pull config will work? Also, while I have an existing XSPC 360mm rad, I'm open to suggestions on something new, as it's about 3-4 years old now.

I plan to use an ASUS Maximus VIII motherboard, but have't figured out what RAM to use yet.

Thanks very much in advance for any advice!


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Folks,
> 
> I'm interested in the Fractal Design Define S for a new build I'm planning. I've tried searching for the answer, but haven't had any luck, so my apologies in advance if this has been answered somewhere and I missed it.
> 
> I'd like to mount a 360mm radiator at the top, but for the life of me can't seem to figure out if a push/pull config will work? Also, while I have an existing XSPC 360mm rad, I'm open to suggestions on something new, as it's about 3-4 years old now.
> 
> I plan to use an ASUS Maximus VIII motherboard, but have't figured out what RAM to use yet.
> 
> Thanks very much in advance for any advice!


Been asked here on this forum a million times... just do a search on this thread and you should see pictures and answers...

But simple and short the answer is "Depends"... how tick the radiator is, and the height of your memory, If you go for low profile ram then you shouldn't have any problem as long as you using a not so thick rad....


----------



## PC4CAB

Thanks, my apologies for missing the info. I honestly tried to search for it!


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Thanks, my apologies for missing the info. I honestly tried to search for it!


Its all good. I am sure someone will post a photo at some point for ya... at least I hope.

But for example here is my AX360 on top with some Corsair SP120 on top of it... and as you can see they are a hair away from touching my Dominator sets.


----------



## Nelly.

Review of the Fractal Design S comparing the window and non window version.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

So i'm going to be building out of this case later on and plan to use 3 of these: http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-Radiator-Cooling-PH-F140XP_BK/dp/B00E9NZX7E?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 for the front intake, the noctua nh-u12s with a 120 industrial fan and a 140 industrial for rear exhaust. Do you think that would be sufficient cooling?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> So i'm going to be building out of this case later on and plan to use 3 of these: http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-140mm-Radiator-Cooling-PH-F140XP_BK/dp/B00E9NZX7E?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 for the front intake, the noctua nh-u12s with a 120 industrial fan and a 140 industrial for rear exhaust. Do you think that would be sufficient cooling?


3 fans for front intake is way too many. These cases really vent very well, when I was on air cooling my case wasn't getting really much hotter inside than ambient temp. 2 fans for front is ok


----------



## krutoydiesel

A little update to my Fractal Define S build, went from soft tubing to hard-line tubing using 14mm OD XSPC PETG tubing and Barrows fittings. Also, upgraded from a 27" Benq IPS 1080p panel, to the Acer X34 Predator, a 100hz, G-Sync, ultrawide 1440p monitor, the 980Ti potential is now fully realized.

Feel free to give me tips on future tubing runs or bends.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> 3 fans for front intake is way too many. These cases really vent very well, when I was on air cooling my case wasn't getting really much hotter inside than ambient temp. 2 fans for front is ok


What if i just go with the 140 Industrial in the front and only have 2 of the Phanteks exhausting rear and top? As it is the S only comes with just 1 fan in the front, so i figure with a high cfm and static pressure fan like the Industrial i figure i'd get plenty of air but tone down the speed. But i guess it don't really matter.


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> A little update to my Fractal Define S build, went from soft tubing to hard-line tubing using 14mm OD XSPC PETG tubing and Barrows fittings. Also, upgraded from a 27" Benq IPS 1080p panel, to the Acer X34 Predator, a 100hz, G-Sync, ultrawide 1440p monitor, the 980Ti potential is now fully realized.
> 
> Feel free to give me tips on future tubing runs or bends.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any issues with that monitor?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arkansaswoman22*
> 
> Any issues with that monitor?


Nope, I got the manufactured in Feb 2016 batch, pretty close to perfect, there is a little bleed in both upper right and left corners, with the left being more prominent. But it isn't noticeable until you are looking for it.


----------



## Duality92

Hi Fractal fans, I'm going through some owners clubs and I see this one would need to be updated quite badly, are any of you interested in taking over the OP to update it?

Anyone that has interest in this, do not post here, please send me a private message


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> A little update to my Fractal Define S build, went from soft tubing to hard-line tubing using 14mm OD XSPC PETG tubing and Barrows fittings. Also, upgraded from a 27" Benq IPS 1080p panel, to the Acer X34 Predator, a 100hz, G-Sync, ultrawide 1440p monitor, the 980Ti potential is now fully realized.
> 
> Feel free to give me tips on future tubing runs or bends.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hi, I am doing exactly same thing at the moment.Barrow fittings, 14mm PETG tubing from XSPC and from Barrows. Barrows tubing looks much better, noticeably clearer than XSPC, you can't see the lines inside the tube and is easier to work with. I am using Barrow silicone insert and it seems like XSPC tubes are a tad bigger inside, the silicone insert goes in easier than into Barrow and is more loose( that's probably the reason why bends look better on Barrow tubing). I'll try to get some decent pictures for comparison tomorrow.

How these Barrow fittings seal that XSPC tubing, any issues, leaks?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Hi, I am doing exactly same thing at the moment.Barrow fittings, 14mm PETG tubing from XSPC and from Barrows. Barrows tubing looks much better, noticeably clearer than XSPC, you can't see the lines inside the tube and is easier to work with. I am using Barrow silicone insert and it seems like XSPC tubes are a tad bigger inside, the silicone insert goes in easier than into Barrow and is more loose( that's probably the reason why bends look better on Barrow tubing). I'll try to get some decent pictures for comparison tomorrow.
> 
> How these Barrow fittings seal that XSPC tubing, any issues, leaks?


Once there is liquid inside, it looks crystal. They seal great, I have no leaks after a 24 hour leak test, and its been 48 hours since then, but I did make sure that my bends went into the fittings at a perfect angle, some just a tad off, but nothing major.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Once there is liquid inside, it looks crystal. They seal great, I have no leaks after a 24 hour leak test, and its been 48 hours since then, but I did make sure that my bends went into the fittings at a perfect angle, some just a tad off, but nothing major.


thx for your tips. I am not planning on any bends closed than an inch from a fitting but it's my first rigid tubing job so I am a bit worried, especially that I can pull the tube out of the fitting, is it normal? I am using compression fittings with 3 orings(two in the base and one under the locking nut).


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> thx for your tips. I am not planning on any bends closed than an inch from a fitting but it's my first rigid tubing job so I am a bit worried, especially that I can pull the tube out of the fitting, is it normal? I am using compression fittings with 3 orings(two in the base and one under the locking nut).


Well it's all push fittings, so I don't recommend being reckless when moving the case around. A solid tug will pop the tube out of the fitting, which is normal. With compression fittings you don't have the same issue with pulling out the tube as the lock ring squeezes the o ring around the tube.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Well it's all push fittings, so I don't recommend being reckless when moving the case around. A solid tug will pop the tube out of the fitting, which is normal. With compression fittings you don't have the same issue with pulling out the tube as the lock ring squeezes the o ring around the tube.


that's the problem, I have compression fittings and still can pull the tube out, that's what worries me a bit


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> that's the problem, I have compression fittings and still can pull the tube out, that's what worries me a bit


It's not soft tubing so you will be able to pull it out regardless, does it fit snug? Does it leak? No? Then enjoy the art.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> It's not soft tubing so you will be able to pull it out regardless, does it fit snug? Does it leak? No? Then enjoy the art.


I have done only 2 tubes so far today, still got few left to do.
Obviously I did feel sort of friction when sliding the tube in but not sure if it was enough( some ppl say they struggle to push the tube all the way down to the fitting, mine went in quite smoothly, I dipped the tube end in water before pushing it in tho).
Will find out soon if it's leakproof. thx for help


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I have done only 2 tubes so far today, still got few left to do.
> Obviously I did feel sort of friction when sliding the tube in but not sure if it was enough( some ppl say they struggle to push the tube all the way down to the fitting, mine went in quite smoothly, I dipped the tube end in water before pushing it in tho).
> Will find out soon if it's leakproof. thx for help


I didn't dip the tubes in water before I put mine in. It did take a little effort to fully seat it. Let me know what happens.


----------



## Frestoinc

just finished mine


----------



## Jyve

That's pretty sick. Love the psu shroud.

Edit: uh, what's it say?


----------



## axipher

Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?


We had one?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?
> 
> 
> 
> We had one?
Click to expand...

According to http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-software-representative-initiative we had @Fractal Design but no last time online which puts the last login time before the last OCN major facelift...


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?
> 
> 
> 
> We had one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-software-representative-initiative we had @Fractal Design but no last time online which puts the last login time before the last OCN major facelift...
Click to expand...

Yeah, his last posts date from 4 years+++ ago.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?
> 
> 
> 
> We had one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-software-representative-initiative we had @Fractal Design but no last time online which puts the last login time before the last OCN major facelift...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, his last posts date from 4 years+++ ago.
Click to expand...

I'm currently on an email thread with Fractal Support about the new Core 1000 USB 3.0. Since my Core 1000 is powdercoated, no way I'm going to buy a whole new case for just the front I/O panel so trying to get one of those and also poking them for a potential hardware rep.


----------



## Duality92

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?
> 
> 
> 
> We had one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-software-representative-initiative we had @Fractal Design but no last time online which puts the last login time before the last OCN major facelift...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, his last posts date from 4 years+++ ago.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm currently on an email thread with Fractal Support about the new Core 1000 USB 3.0. Since my Core 1000 is powdercoated, no way I'm going to buy a whole new case for just the front I/O panel so trying to get one of those and also poking them for a potential hardware rep.
Click to expand...





I hate this thread for being in HTML. (I had to say it first)

I've exchanged with Fractal In the past, they've sent me fans, I/O items without questions. I even broke things on my Define R4, which they replaced. I then asked for a sponsorship once upon a time and I never got an answer back.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?
> 
> 
> 
> We had one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-software-representative-initiative we had @Fractal Design but no last time online which puts the last login time before the last OCN major facelift...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, his last posts date from 4 years+++ ago.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm currently on an email thread with Fractal Support about the new Core 1000 USB 3.0. Since my Core 1000 is powdercoated, no way I'm going to buy a whole new case for just the front I/O panel so trying to get one of those and also poking them for a potential hardware rep.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate this thread for being in HTML. (I had to say it first)
> 
> I've exchanged with Fractal In the past, they've sent me fans, I/O items without questions. I even broke things on my Define R4, which they replaced. I then asked for a sponsorship once upon a time and I never got an answer back.
Click to expand...

Oh you don't like HTML, that's my bad, work blocks some of the JS on this site, so I get no editor of any sorts, just s big text box with HTML code:










But yes, I spoke with someone years ago in the technical departmant and got a replacement set of case feet and front I/O panel, I just had to pay shipping to Canada. This time I contacted Sales, so maybe that was my mistake or some miscommunication on their end. I'll see if it gets resolved and keep trying to pull one of them on here


----------



## Duality92

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Do we have an active Fractal Design Representative on OCN still?
> 
> 
> 
> We had one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> According to http://www.overclock.net/t/1449035/overclocks-hardware-software-representative-initiative we had @Fractal Design but no last time online which puts the last login time before the last OCN major facelift...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, his last posts date from 4 years+++ ago.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm currently on an email thread with Fractal Support about the new Core 1000 USB 3.0. Since my Core 1000 is powdercoated, no way I'm going to buy a whole new case for just the front I/O panel so trying to get one of those and also poking them for a potential hardware rep.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hate this thread for being in HTML. (I had to say it first)
> 
> I've exchanged with Fractal In the past, they've sent me fans, I/O items without questions. I even broke things on my Define R4, which they replaced. I then asked for a sponsorship once upon a time and I never got an answer back.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh you don't like HTML, that's my bad, work blocks some of the JS on this site, so I get no editor of any sorts, just s big text box with HTML code:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yes, I spoke with someone years ago in the technical departmant and got a replacement set of case feet and front I/O panel, I just had to pay shipping to Canada. This time I contacted Sales, so maybe that was my mistake or some miscommunication on their end. I'll see if it gets resolved and keep trying to pull one of them on here
Click to expand...





The thread OP is in HTML too. Dimensive is going to have fun redoing it







He just got ownership of the OP yesterday ^^


----------



## axipher

Well that should be a lot of fun for him then


----------



## Dimensive

I like a challenge, but still can't edit.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I like a challenge, but still can't edit.


Soon™


----------



## Benjiw

So I've been learning the hard way that I need 90 degree hardling fittings because some of my bends are just too close together.


----------



## Ithanul

Well if anyone needs help with the HTML. I know some of the basics of it. So don't mind helping cleaning it up. Had to do that over on the BBT OP in the TC folding area. Was to much redundant code going on in it.


----------



## DamyLv

Some modding on my Core 1000 plastic front panel:

Starting appearence:


I decided to move intake front fans inside the case instead of between case and front panel
(as you can see in this picture, I modded my case using most advanced tools and technologies ever







)



Then:
- replaced that starting black thick paper with two round holes showing fans with another one with two rhombus shape ones
- printed an "appropriate"







subject
- glued those two mentioned above
- Cutted front mesh cover according to those two rhombus shapes
- gaged the right position for that floating blue power led


----------



## Dimensive

The original post is under construction right now. Gotta get the information updated and pay better respects to one of the best case manufacturers out there.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> The original post is under construction right now. Gotta get the information updated and pay better respects to one of the best case manufacturers out there.


I'm sure it'll be great when you're done. Are you going to include the alternate versions of the cases like "white-out" R5 etc?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> I'm sure it'll be great when you're done. Are you going to include the alternate versions of the cases like "white-out" R5 etc?


If the only differences between the R5 cases are the color and if they have a window or not, then I will create an R5 section with 3 pictures of each case with it's model name. Then I'll add the information provided by Fractal's website. And I will do the same for the other cases, such as the Node 304, the R4, etc.

I will link to the discontinued products on their website and once a case that is in the original post becomes obsolete, I will either create a discontinued section and move its information there or just remove it.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> If the only differences between the R5 cases are the color and if they have a window or not, then I will create an R5 section with 3 pictures of each case with it's model name. Then I'll add the information provided by Fractal's website. And I will do the same for the other cases, such as the Node 304, the R4, etc.
> 
> I will link to the discontinued products on their website and once a case that is in the original post becomes obsolete, I will either create a discontinued section and move its information there or just remove it.


A man with a plan! This thread looks like it's in good hands. Let's hope we get some official FD traffic in here. I'd love to hear about some new FD cases.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> A man with a plan! This thread looks like it's in good hands. Let's hope we get some official FD traffic in here. I'd love to hear about some new FD cases.


I hope so too. Would love something new in the Arc Series.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I hope so too. Would love something new in the Arc Series.


I think I'd like a new XL first


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I think I'd like a new XL first


I think you misspelled Arc Mini.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I think I'd like a new XL first


I'd like FD to take a shot at something premium... with tempered glass and minimalist Scandinavian design. =P


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I think you misspelled Arc Mini.


Never! I have an Arc Mini R2, while I love it, I want something bigger to eventually (in a year++) move my dual system into a new case and water cool it!


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Never! I have an Arc Mini R2, while I love it, I want something bigger to eventually (in a year++) move my dual system into a new case and water cool it!


The Arc Mini R2 set a standard for me that no other case has met so far. The only thing I could ask for is maybe 2-3mm more space behind the motherboard because I have always had trouble putting the back panel back on with all the cables.

Been watching The Duality and hoping for more updates soon.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> The Arc Mini R2 set a standard for me that no other case has met so far. The only thing I could ask for is maybe 2-3mm more space behind the motherboard because I have always had trouble putting the back panel back on with all the cables.
> 
> Been watching The Duality and hoping for more updates soon.


Yup, 2-3mm would've helped quite a bit. We had quite similar hardware too IIRC.



Spoiler: Last updates on the Phanteks sponsored package



April 22, 2016 , 8:05 pm
Processed Through Facility
ISC LOS ANGELES CA (USPS)
Your item was processed through our ISC LOS ANGELES CA (USPS) facility on April 22, 2016 at 8:05 pm. The item is currently in transit to the destination.

April 22, 2016 , 8:04 pm
Arrived at Facility
ISC LOS ANGELES CA (USPS)

April 22, 2016
Pre-Shipment Info Sent to USPS


----------



## PC4CAB

Folks,

If I don't plan to use a radiator in the front of the Define S case, am I still limited to 55mm up top if I use a 420mm rad? I'd like to go with a 420mm, if for no other reason than to eliminate the gap created by using 120mm on the roof.

I'm torn between a 360mm, or 420mm, mostly;y because I'm worried about dust coming in up top, where the gap is...

Appreciate any advice!


----------



## Jyve

Is like to see an arc mini that would support the EK predator up top!

Tempered glass would be cool too.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DamyLv*
> 
> Some modding on my Core 1000 plastic front panel:
> 
> Starting appearence:
> 
> 
> I decided to move intake front fans inside the case instead of between case and front panel
> (as you can see in this picture, I modded my case using most advanced tools and technologies ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then:
> - replaced that starting black thick paper with two round holes showing fans with another one with two rhombus shape ones
> - printed an "appropriate"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> subject
> - glued those two mentioned above
> - Cutted front mesh cover according to those two rhombus shapes
> - gaged the right position for that floating blue power led
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What anime is that from?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Folks,
> 
> If I don't plan to use a radiator in the front of the Define S case, am I still limited to 55mm up top if I use a 420mm rad? I'd like to go with a 420mm, if for no other reason than to eliminate the gap created by using 120mm on the roof.
> 
> I'm torn between a 360mm, or 420mm, mostly;y because I'm worried about dust coming in up top, where the gap is...
> 
> Appreciate any advice!


I put in a 420 up top and regret it still, it's done nothing but cause me issues with clearance. I have a VRM waterblock on my board and I'm going to have to cut my 140mm vardar just to get it to fit.


----------



## TheEnergy

Anyone here have a picture of the Fractal R5 vs the Phanteks Evolv ATX?

I have the Evolv ATX but it's pretty big for a mid tower (much bigger than my NZXT S340) and incredibly heavy with parts inside case.


----------



## JackCY

You can find pictures of cases online just search. Sizes and weights are often on product pages or in reviews.

R5:
Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 451 x 521mm
Case dimensions - with feet/screws/protrusions: 232 x 462 x 531mm
Net weight: 10.7 kg
Package dimensions (WxHxD): 327 x 615 x 540mm
Package weight: 12.5 kg

Evolv:
Dimension 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D)
Package: 10.2 kg net, 11.9 kg gross

Most cases of equal sizes have almost equal weight, unless you buy some cheapo case with thin panels and no dampening, filters, etc.

I have R4 with 850 G2 and for me it's the PSU that makes the case heavy and rear heavy. Plus you have water cooling and a piece of cover panel inside to add even more weight.
Evolv seems like a neat case but the price for the midtower is insane. The smaller versions seem more reasonable.
Considering all cases are just 4 metal sides cube and you still have to cut out the stupid grills yourself I don't find it worth it to spend a lot of money on a case that is far from modding needed free.
Alu panels are nice but not sound proofed which means even more money for sound dampening materials.

R5 can't take all EATX, R4 can take any EATX without modding. Define series is relatively quiet and sound dampened at least a bit including the front panel.

The non removable internal panels in Evolv are gonna be a PITA if something you want to mount doesn't fit.


----------



## toouur

My R5 with rgb led


----------



## andreyb

hi, I am a newbie here.
I have recently moved my rig from CM690 case to my new R5:
  
I love that, and I am thinking of building a watercooling loop in it. I have in mind 2х140 rad in front, 1x140 on bottom and 1x140 in back. The idea is to leave case's top sound insulation as it is, so I wouldn't like to have large radiator on top.
Do you guys think it is possible? Any possible problems or something to be considered?


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You can find pictures of cases online just search. Sizes and weights are often on product pages or in reviews.
> 
> R5:
> Case dimensions (WxHxD): 232 x 451 x 521mm
> Case dimensions - with feet/screws/protrusions: 232 x 462 x 531mm
> Net weight: 10.7 kg
> Package dimensions (WxHxD): 327 x 615 x 540mm
> Package weight: 12.5 kg
> 
> Evolv:
> Dimension 235 mm x 495 mm x 510 mm (W x H x D)
> Package: 10.2 kg net, 11.9 kg gross
> 
> Most cases of equal sizes have almost equal weight, unless you buy some cheapo case with thin panels and no dampening, filters, etc.
> 
> I have R4 with 850 G2 and for me it's the PSU that makes the case heavy and rear heavy. Plus you have water cooling and a piece of cover panel inside to add even more weight.
> Evolv seems like a neat case but the price for the midtower is insane. The smaller versions seem more reasonable.
> Considering all cases are just 4 metal sides cube and you still have to cut out the stupid grills yourself I don't find it worth it to spend a lot of money on a case that is far from modding needed free.
> Alu panels are nice but not sound proofed which means even more money for sound dampening materials.
> 
> R5 can't take all EATX, R4 can take any EATX without modding. Define series is relatively quiet and sound dampened at least a bit including the front panel.
> 
> The non removable internal panels in Evolv are gonna be a PITA if something you want to mount doesn't fit.


Is the define S or R5 the best fractal midtower atm?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Is the define S or R5 the best fractal midtower atm?


I'd say the Define S is well up there in terms of it being the best mid tower full stop.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'd say the Define S is well up there in terms of it being the best mid tower full stop.


I have the Phanteks Evolv ATX atm.



It has a lot of space which is great for building, but it's very heavy and big for a mid tower, which I don't like. I actually don't like the front panel design either; I like more "boxed" angular/square-cases, obviously I love the aluminum though.

Would the define S be a down grade and does it come in white? I also watched a Hardware Canucks video where his fingernail scratched the acrylic glass?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> Is the define S or R5 the best fractal midtower atm?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'd say the Define S is well up there in terms of it being the best mid tower full stop.


I don't disagree that the Define S is well up there.

To me the decision points between the R5 and the S are:

Water cooling leans toward the S. Air cooling, more of a tossup.

1) do you need a 5 1/4 optical drive in the case
2) do you need more than three 3 1/2 inch HDDs and two 2.5" SSDs?

If yes to either, the R5 wins, but it gives up one front fan and gives up airflow from the front in general. ( my opinion, just from looking, no hard data to prove this)

Had the S been available when I bought my R5 it would have been a tough choice.

I like having a DVDRW without having to dig the portable burner out of a drawer, or wonder if I left it at work or ...

But a third front intake would be nice to have.

Ok, both are good choices.


----------



## TheEnergy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I don't disagree that the Define S is well up there.
> 
> To me the decision points between the R5 and the S are:
> 
> Water cooling leans toward the S. Air cooling, more of a tossup.
> 
> 1) do you need a 5 1/4 optical drive in the case
> 2) do you need more than three 3 1/2 inch HDDs and two 2.5" SSDs?
> 
> If yes to either, the R5 wins, but it gives up one front fan and gives up airflow from the front in general. ( my opinion, just from looking, no hard data to prove this)
> 
> Had the S been available when I bought my R5 it would have been a tough choice.
> 
> I like having a DVDRW without having to dig the portable burner out of a drawer, or wonder if I left it at work or ...
> 
> But a third front intake would be nice to have.
> 
> Ok, both are good choices.


I hate HDDs and don't use Opptical drives (eww ... outdated).

I wanted white though..does the S come in white? and does the window really scratch that easily?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I don't disagree that the Define S is well up there.
> 
> To me the decision points between the R5 and the S are:
> 
> Water cooling leans toward the S. Air cooling, more of a tossup.
> 
> 1) do you need a 5 1/4 optical drive in the case
> 2) do you need more than three 3 1/2 inch HDDs and two 2.5" SSDs?
> 
> If yes to either, the R5 wins, but it gives up one front fan and gives up airflow from the front in general. ( my opinion, just from looking, no hard data to prove this)
> 
> Had the S been available when I bought my R5 it would have been a tough choice.
> 
> I like having a DVDRW without having to dig the portable burner out of a drawer, or wonder if I left it at work or ...
> 
> But a third front intake would be nice to have.
> 
> Ok, both are good choices.


You can fit 3 hard drives in the Define S and I've not used a CD for years now. Everything is either on a USB or the cloud.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxAlbertoxX*
> 
> I have the Phanteks Evolv ATX atm.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has a lot of space which is great for building, but it's very heavy and big for a mid tower, which I don't like. I actually don't like the front panel design either; I like more "boxed" angular/square-cases, obviously I love the aluminum though.
> 
> Would the define S be a down grade and does it come in white? I also watched a Hardware Canucks video where his fingernail scratched the acrylic glass?


You would have to spray it white and the acrylic does scratch easy, I'm going to mod mine to take glass instead.


----------



## gordonash

Im really interested in buying a Define Mini but not happy with the single usb 3 port.

Has anyone ever retro fitted additional usb3 ports in place of the front/top usb2 ports?

Thanks.


----------



## Bear304

Thought it was time to share my Define S build as it is more or less finished, just need to mount the lights.









So here is my system Bear Raid


----------



## utternoob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I have R4 with 850 G2 and for me it's the PSU that makes the case heavy and rear heavy. Plus you have water cooling and a piece of cover panel inside to add even more weight.
> Evolv seems like a neat case but the price for the midtower is insane. The smaller versions seem more reasonable.
> Considering all cases are just 4 metal sides cube and you still have to cut out the stupid grills yourself I don't find it worth it to spend a lot of money on a case that is far from modding needed free.
> Alu panels are nice but not sound proofed which means even more money for sound dampening materials.


I'm actually trying to decide between Define S and the Evolv ATX for my next build and my problem is that I really don't want to mount a radiator at the top of the Define S because of how the case's top is designed. Once the moduvent covers are removed, you've ruined the sound dampening effects of the case, and exposed the whole top to dust coming in from above. Plus I hate how the top looks without the covers.
So I figured the Evolv ATX might be the better case for me. It's a shame, I like the Define S's look. :/


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Thought it was time to share my Define S build as it is more or less finished, just need to mount the lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my system Bear Raid
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Glad to see your build is finished! Looks great!


----------



## fatboyslimerr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear304*
> 
> Thought it was time to share my Define S build as it is more or less finished, just need to mount the lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So here is my system Bear Raid


Super clean build, I love it. How did you manage to hide rad to pump tube?

Sent from my m8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatboyslimerr*
> 
> Super clean build, I love it. How did you manage to hide rad to pump tube?
> 
> Sent from my m8 using Tapatalk


Thanks









I have a black piece of tubing running down the side to the bottom floor and over to a 4-port hub with temp sensor and a drain valve before the return water enters the reservoir.


----------



## 44TZL

Just starting a new watercooled X99 build with the Define S. Couple of issues still to be resolved such as ....how to mount the front fans, bottom rad and arranging PSU ventilation and opening up a gap to the back area, creating a cool shroud.... but.....pretty excited to with this airflow setup. Most of the top rad should get pretty fresh air. Anyone has this type of setup?

(bottom fan should be upside down..it's an intake)


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Just starting a new watercooled X99 build with the Define S. Couple of issues still to be resolved such as ....how to mount the front fans, bottom rad and arranging PSU ventilation and opening up a gap to the back area, creating a cool shroud.... but.....pretty excited to with this airflow setup. Most of the top rad should get pretty fresh air. Anyone has this type of setup?
> 
> (bottom fan should be upside down..it's an intake)


I'm wondering why you are making things harder for yourself. There is plenty of RAD space in the front and in the top, why are you moving around the PSU to a spot where you will have to cut pieces of the case and remove function from the case(HDD area)


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> I'm wondering why you are making things harder for yourself. There is plenty of RAD space in the front and in the top, why are you moving around the PSU to a spot where you will have to cut pieces of the case and remove function from the case(HDD area)


I am making it harder I guess - good point! Maybe its the rebel gene playing up and my preference for bottom-up airflow









Just as a comment....there's already a 420 rad mounted in the top (and yes the 280 does fit in front).. and it won't have any HDDs so really not at all worried about losing a drive bay. Problem with the front rad mount is that will need to stick through the planned PSU shroud.

Advantage of this one is an easier to construct front to back 'PSU' shroud, better airflow, better temps and ability to run short hidden cabling from the PSU. It also opens up the case a bit where the pump + res goes.
Anyway am still tossing up if it's worth it.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> I am making it harder I guess - good point! Maybe its the rebel gene playing up and my preference for bottom-up airflow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just as a comment....there's already a 420 rad mounted in the top (and yes the 280 does fit in front).. and it won't have any HDDs so really not at all worried about losing a drive bay. Problem with the front rad mount is that will need to stick through the planned PSU shroud.
> 
> Advantage of this one is an easier to construct front to back 'PSU' shroud, better airflow, better temps and ability to run short hidden cabling from the PSU. It also opens up the case a bit where the pump + res goes.
> Anyway am still tossing up if it's worth it.


You will *maybe* see a 1-3C temp difference, in my opinion it isn't worth it, but it is an interesting idea.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> You will *maybe* see a 1-3C temp difference, in my opinion it isn't worth it, but it is an interesting idea.


Yes something like that, bit more I'd say - but nothing life changing 

With my current Define Nano S, the front CPU rad heated up the GPU top rad by about 2-5C depending on CPU load.. but that was only 100W max if that (a 4690K @ 4.5Ghz / 1.14V). Running a game and opening the case is an immediate 4C drop. Anyway not totally comparable but still.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Just starting a new watercooled X99 build with the Define S. Couple of issues still to be resolved such as ....how to mount the front fans, bottom rad and arranging PSU ventilation and opening up a gap to the back area, creating a cool shroud.... but.....pretty excited to with this airflow setup. Most of the top rad should get pretty fresh air. Anyone has this type of setup?
> 
> (bottom fan should be upside down..it's an intake)


Will there be a build log? I am very interested in your take.


----------



## Dreamliner

Air cooling FTW.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Air cooling FTW.


Air cooling is for poor people who can't overclock.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Air cooling is for poor people who can't overclock.


My 4.5Ghz 5820K disagrees with you and I've never had to check it for leaks.









Money is far better spent on better gear than water.

We can still be friends.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> My 4.5Ghz 5820K disagrees with you and I've never had to check it for leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Money is far better spent on better gear than water.
> 
> We can still be friends.


Why do you even use a case? A cardboard box gets the job done and you can save that money for better gear! /s

I like pretty things.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Why do you even use a case? A cardboard box gets the job done and you can save that money for better gear! /s
> 
> I like pretty things.


I like a black winowless performance case.


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Air cooling is for poor people who can't overclock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> My 4.5Ghz 5820K disagrees with you and I've never had to check it for leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Money is far better spent on better gear than water.
> 
> We can still be friends.


You want silence and high performance, you pay the price, but you get to have a pretty view of watercooled bits

You want high performance and less cost, your ears pay, and it doesn't look nearly as good.

"Why can't weeee be frieeeennddssss"


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> You want silence and high performance, you pay the price, but you get to have a pretty view of watercooled bits
> 
> You want high performance and less cost, your ears pay, and it doesn't look nearly as good.
> 
> "Why can't weeee be frieeeennddssss"


Silence is a fallacy of water. Components still generate the same heat which requires dissipation with fans. I promise an air rig can be just as quiet as water. I have 8 140mm fans and its silent. I can hear my hard drives over my fans.

Water sure is pretty though, especially the custom stuff. Some of the rigs in here are beautiful!


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Silence is a fallacy of water. Components still generate the same heat which requires dissipation with fans. I promise an air rig can be just as quiet as water. I have 8 140mm fans and its silent. I can hear my hard drives over my fans.
> 
> Water sure is pretty though, especially the custom stuff. Some of the rigs in here are beautiful!


It's not about the amount of heat that needs dissipation, its about how well water cooled rigs dissipate it.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> It's not about the amount of heat that needs dissipation, its about how well water cooled rigs dissipate it.


I don't think anyone is going to argue that air cooled rigs can perform as well as a water cooled rig. Or is that your stance?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> I don't think anyone is going to argue that air cooled rigs can perform as well as a water cooled rig. Or is that your stance?


My stance is watercooled is generally quieter and has lower temps at load, hence it's the king of cooling.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> I don't think anyone is going to argue that air cooled rigs can perform as well as a water cooled rig. Or is that your stance?


My stance is dollar for dollar, air is better. My 5820k is at 4.5Ghz and its not limited by heat problems. Most people water cool to OC graphics but I still maintain that water money is better spent on better hardware. A GTX970 on water vs a GTX980 on air. Which would you pick?


----------



## 44TZL

Quietly aircooling your top GPU or SLI rig.. priceless


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Quietely aircooling your top GPU or SLI rig.. priceless


No no, that's impossible. Water is the only way.









Dat sag doe...


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> My stance is dollar for dollar, air is better. My 5820k is at 4.5Ghz and its not limited by heat problems. Most people water cool to OC graphics but I still maintain that water money is better spent on better hardware. A GTX970 on water vs a GTX980 on air. Which would you pick?


The dollar argument only works well if you conveniently forget the price of all your case fans... 8 you said? That would be close to buying two AIOs and not needing any case fans. And it would be quieter under load with the GPU watercooled.

Custom loops.. different story


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> The dollar argument only works well if you conveniently forget the price of all your case fans... 8 you said? That would be close to buying two AIOs and not needing any case fans. And it would be quieter under load with the GPU watercooled.
> 
> Custom loops.. different story


AIO's are a great value and I've considered them but they usually don't include cooling for the memory chips, so don't forget those.

I'm just too concerned about leaks.

There's also a chart that compared lots of coolers including AIO's and HSF's at a specific wattage on a metal slab and reports dB and temps. I'll have to find it but AIO's were not at the top.

Custom loops are ludicrously expensive and I'd way rather put that money into better gear.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Will there be a build log? I am very interested in your take.


Yes will start one once I've got all the components (in about a week I'd say). Any things you'd like to see in particular?


----------



## Not15Characters

Hi, I'm looking for some info on the Fractal Design Nano S case.
I wanted to know if I could mount a 120mm fan on the bottom of the case in front of the psu, if I used the bracket to mount a HDD vertically beside the motherboard.

Also, I was wondering how you guys solved the problem of the moduvent opening the case for dust. Should I simply leave it on?
I was planning on using this setup:

Would the airflow be sufficent, or am I forced to open up the top to dust to install one or two 120mm fans?
Thank you.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> My stance is watercooled is generally quieter and has lower temps at load, hence it's the king of cooling.


True this especially when folding 24/7. I have done both air, water cooling, and AIO. I take an AIO or water cool the GPU over an air cooler any day. Otherwise poor GPU sounds like a killer bee going off inside the case. I know from running a 960, 980, 7970, and Titans with air coolers. Far better once I smacked them under water. The 980 STRIX was super bad, I could hear it over the window A/C.

Plus, since my rigs are in the living room. They need to stay quite which the AIOs and water blocks easily do the job while still allowing me to fold and abuse the crap out of them.


----------



## Dan-H

isn't there a water vs air forum you-all can take this to?

What next? will the *case forum* be debating AMD vs nVidia ?


----------



## krutoydiesel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> isn't there a water vs air forum you-all can take this to?
> 
> What next? will the *case forum* be debating AMD vs nVidia ?


It is all very relevant.

FD makes some great water-cooling friendly cases.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not15Characters*
> 
> Hi, I'm looking for some info on the Fractal Design Nano S case.
> I wanted to know if I could mount a 120mm fan on the bottom of the case in front of the psu, if I used the bracket to mount a HDD vertically beside the motherboard.
> 
> Also, I was wondering how you guys solved the problem of the moduvent opening the case for dust. Should I simply leave it on?
> I was planning on using this setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would the airflow be sufficent, or am I forced to open up the top to dust to install one or two 120mm fans?
> Thank you.


It all depends on what you are going to run in there and what temperatures you are after.

Having build in it, let me share a couple of things that I experienced with it:

The bottom fan can be tricky depending on how long your PSU is and how neatly the cabling can be done .. but yes there's a spot there.
There's very little space between the PSU and most air-cooled videocards - it may not be ideal. Also feeding the PSU with hot air - not sure if that's optimal.
There's plenty builds that just have 2 front fans (140mm) and 1 at the back.
Thermally for your SSD and HDD drive at the back, the case works better with negative case pressure (air gets sucked in at the front, rather than blown back in with positive pressure)
Removing one of the top-grommet above the motherboard will help SSD temps a bit


----------



## Not15Characters

Can you turn the moduvent in a filter? Thats the only downside to this case.
I dont want to have negative pressure and have my pc fill up with dust from the top and I dont want dust to get in the computer when its turned off.
Therefore, I thought of using the moduvent as a mounting mechanism for a filter. I would cut the inside with a dremel and attach a simple filter mesh inside. Is that doable?


----------



## Bear304

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not15Characters*
> 
> Can you turn the moduvent in a filter? Thats the only downside to this case.
> I dont want to have negative pressure and have my pc fill up with dust from the top and I dont want dust to get in the computer when its turned off.
> Therefore, I thought of using the moduvent as a mounting mechanism for a filter. I would cut the inside with a dremel and attach a simple filter mesh inside. Is that doable?


I guess it could be done. Which case do you have ?

I cut the moduvents on my Define S to avoid dust getting into the case from the top when there was a 420 radiator in the top.


----------



## Not15Characters

I want to buy the define nano s. Single piece moduvent. I could probably get my friends CNC to do a clean inside cut and double side tape some filter material on the inside. I could leave 10-11mm all around and use some u-channel rubber to hide the cut. What is your opinion on this?


----------



## 44TZL

I'd love to see Fractal to offer an optional or go back to a topcover like the Arc Midi R2 - looks a lot better. Just a little bit less suited for low-rpm silent builds.

Here's my go with modding a moduvent (Define Nano). Not sure what I will do with my Define S build..


----------



## Not15Characters

How did you get this result? What tools should I use and what problems did you face? That's exactly the result im looking for, but with a cleaner edge.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not15Characters*
> 
> How did you get this result? What tools should I use and what problems did you face? That's exactly the result im looking for, but with a cleaner edge.


As far as where to cut, this one leaves 16 mm on the left, 18mm on the back, 40mm on the front and 66 mm on the right. So the gap that was created opens the area up for 2x120mm fans, it does not restrict airflow much, but still does not show the fan/rad mounting. I think for looks it's important to closely match the 2 distance on the back and the left so it sort of looks like it was intentionally designed.

Tools. I used a new stanley knife and metal guide rail to do the cut. Takes a bit of effort and care, especially not to overshoot cutting it. I also used a hard form to cut on, so the sound dampening material didn't come off (looks more for show anyway, it's very light material) .

Regarding the finish... yes, I didn't do a proper finish yet. Bit of sanding and spray with a non-gloss black paint could solve most of that I'd say.
I had a look if I could find an DIY magnet strip + mesh.. but there's no kits for sale anywhere. The Air 240 case had this very nice magnetic side filter.. Such a filter could sit nearly flush with the rest of the moduvent. Like this..


----------



## Not15Characters

Do you think I can use the local crowd funded laser cutter to cut the hole in the moduvent panel or is it a job meant for a CNC machine? I was going to model the piece and extrude a 240*120 part at the right spot to make it look "professional".


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not15Characters*
> 
> Do you think I can use the local crowd funded laser cutter to cut the hole in the moduvent panel or is it a job meant for a CNC machine? I was going to model the piece and extrude a 240*120 part at the right spot to make it look "professional".


I'd say if the laser could cut 3mm wood or acrylic, it should be able to cut this one. I'm no expert on this but can't see how it would be more difficult.
As for the gap..
- I went for smaller.. the screws to mount the rad do slightly push up the moduvent
- If you go proper 240x120 you won't have that issue but it will be a bit more flimsy on especially the left side as there's less material left


----------



## Frestoinc

wouldn't a top R5 demcifilter do the job?


----------



## 44TZL

Yes looked at those decmi filters ...they're a bit glossy with thick rims .. ugly really. I'd much prefer if someone would sell a 2m self-adhesive magnetic strip and a roll of low-impedance filter to cut to size.


----------



## Bear304

Why not just use a fine metal saw for making the cuts you need to make, and some sandpaper to finish it up. A laser need to be programmed etc. plus wouldn't the laser not just melt the plastic?


----------



## jopy

thinking of moving the parts from my current R2 into Define S window version.
anyone knows Is there any kind of spray that can make the window panel more Scratch Resistant ?


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> thinking of moving the parts from my current R2 into Define S window version.
> anyone knows Is there any kind of spray that can make the window panel more Scratch Resistant ?


Not sure if they sell Gorilla Glass in a spray can...


----------



## JackCY

Scratch resistant? Isn't just a plexi glass? IE plastic? Why do you need it scratch resistant? Moving to LAN parties often?
You could try finding a source for some screen foil that is used on phones and other gadgets to protect the screen but get one that is uncut in it's raw form, say 1x1m2. But I've never seen that yet nor think it's in any way needed.
If you don't like the plastic window then buy a tempered glass cut into the proper size/shape and replace it.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Scratch resistant? Isn't just a plexi glass? IE plastic? Why do you need it scratch resistant? Moving to LAN parties often?
> You could try finding a source for some screen foil that is used on phones and other gadgets to protect the screen but get one that is uncut in it's raw form, say 1x1m2. But I've never seen that yet nor think it's in any way needed.
> If you don't like the plastic window then buy a tempered glass cut into the proper size/shape and replace it.


I'm not talking about scratch proof...
just want to reinforce the surface a little, scratch resistant = means that the product is able to withstand *minor scratches*.

Its just based on my previous experience with a window case,
for my usage the plastic panel will get scatch too easily.

do you have any links for guides on how to mod the side panel to tinted /tempered glass?

many thanks~


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> I'm not talking about scratch proof...
> just want to reinforce the surface a little, scratch resistant = means that the product is able to withstand *minor scratches*.
> 
> Its just based on my previous experience with a window case,
> for my usage the plastic panel will get scatch too easily.
> 
> do you have any links for guides on how to mod the side panel to tinted /tempered glass?
> 
> many thanks~


Have a glass window panel cut, it is actually not that expensive and probably cheaper than anything you'll put on your stock window.


----------



## 44TZL

I remember Pauls Hardware modding his non-window R5 or S panel to a tinted glass panel -here's the


----------



## JackCY

I don't have links I'm not a fan of windowed panels to keep them, but if you search this thread I'm sure you will find someone who swapped it or made one for a regular panel. You pretty much find a shop that sells glass and they cut it for you. Some cases do come with glass panel instead of acrylic/plastic. Personally I look at the monitor not inside the case.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I don't have links I'm not a fan of windowed panels to keep them, but if you search this thread I'm sure you will find someone who swapped it or made one for a regular panel. You pretty much find a shop that sells glass and they cut it for you. Some cases do come with glass panel instead of acrylic/plastic. Personally I look at the monitor not inside the case.


You should take pride in your artistic creation... I have mine window facing me so I can see the beauty of the custom loop.


----------



## Dreamliner

Never forget. Air works.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Why do you even use a case? A cardboard box gets the job done and you can save that money for better gear! /s


I dug this out just for you.









(Thank heavens I did Litecoin mining in the winter when I could feed this thing -25*F air and it'd come out of the 290X's at room temp.)


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, cold air helps when you can have it.

Me, I am stuck without central air and the lovely Alabama heat. I would not even try to leave mine with air coolers with it breaking above 80-85F inside. On bad days it gets 90-95F inside during the Summers.

One thing I miss about North California. Way cooler through out the year and no crazy high humidity.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, cold air helps when you can have it.
> 
> Me, I am stuck without central air and the lovely Alabama heat. I would not even try to leave mine with air coolers with it breaking above 80-85F inside. On bad days it gets 90-95F inside during the Summers.
> 
> One thing I miss about North California. Way cooler through out the year and no crazy high humidity.


That's one thing that kills me living in Georgia, hot and humid summers.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, cold air helps when you can have it.
> 
> Me, I am stuck without central air and the lovely Alabama heat. I would not even try to leave mine with air coolers with it breaking above 80-85F inside. On bad days it gets 90-95F inside during the Summers.
> 
> One thing I miss about North California. Way cooler through out the year and no crazy high humidity.


You do know that air vs water does not make a single difference with regard to room temps...right? (I may have been confused with your wording)

Components generate the same heat regardless of dissipation method.

I will say that having all those blower cards suck in outside air was pretty awesome. It was below zero air heated up and fresh blown into my house. (I made a shroud for the crate and redirected a fresh air duct coming into my house)


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> That's one thing that kills me living in Georgia, hot and humid summers.


Indeed. I am right about a hour from Florida boarder, so the heat here gets pretty bad. It right now 84F inside the house.
Water temp in my loop at 40.3C Temp on my Ti that folding at full load though is at 46C. So my loop is doing its job very well. That considering I only have four fans, and one is a 200mm @ 800rpm. So it hardly makes noise.







I have eLoops, but I don't even run those at their full rated speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> You do know that air vs water does not make a single difference with regard to room temps...right? (I may have been confused with your wording)
> 
> Components generate the same heat regardless of dissipation method.
> 
> I will say that having all those blower cards suck in outside air was pretty awesome. It was below zero air heated up and fresh blown into my house. (I made a shroud for the crate and redirected a fresh air duct coming into my house)


I have run my cards with air coolers before. I just won't do it anymore since the temps just get ridiculous on the cards here and will straight up throttle bad because of the heat inside the house.

960 with air cooler would break over into the high 75C range. Smacked an AIO onto it, it stays happy at low 40C range with same temps inside the house. Plus, way, way less noise.
Had OG Titans on air coolers. They break into high 75C range or a bit into 80C. Smacked full cover blocks, bam down to 36C range at full load.

24/7 folding will make a card burn like no other.

And I'm nutty bugger who ran a 7970 on an air cooler for TC folding OC with temps at 75C for months. That of course when I was in North California where the temps inside the house could easily be kept lower. I did have it for a short time here in Alabama, but could not fold with it since the temps where just way to high to safely run the card during the Summers here.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Indeed. I am right about a hour from Florida boarder, so the heat here gets pretty bad. It right now 84F inside the house.
> Water temp in my loop at 40.3C Temp on my Ti that folding at full load though is at 46C. So my loop is doing its job very well. That considering I only have four fans, and one is a 200mm @ 800rpm. So it hardly makes noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have eLoops, but I don't even run those at their full rated speed.
> I have run my cards with air coolers before. I just won't do it anymore since the temps just get ridiculous on the cards here and will straight up throttle bad because of the heat inside the house.
> 
> 960 with air cooler would break over into the high 75C range. Smacked an AIO onto it, it stays happy at low 40C range with same temps inside the house. Plus, way, way less noise.
> Had OG Titans on air coolers. They break into high 75C range or a bit into 80C. Smacked full cover blocks, bam down to 36C range at full load.
> 
> 24/7 folding will make a card burn like no other.
> 
> And I'm nutty bugger who ran a 7970 on an air cooler for TC folding OC with temps at 75C for months. That of course when I was in North California where the temps inside the house could easily be kept lower. I did have it for a short time here in Alabama, but could not fold with it since the temps where just way to high to safely run the card during the Summers here.


So where does the heat go then? If you've found some secret in Thermodynamics, I'd bet NASA has a check do you.









As far as I understand, the cooling method is about heat dissipation, not elimation. Help me understand.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> So where does the heat go then? If you've found some secret in Thermodynamics, I'd bet NASA has a check do you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I understand, the cooling method is about heat dissipation, not elimation. Help me understand.


Water is better at moving heat so it can't collect on the GPU die meaning less temp, pretty simple really.

Also it's already been proven that room temp is unaffected by cooling method other than if you have a pretty serious overclock, plenty rads for cooling the room could possibly get hotter as it's more efficient than air cooling.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Water is better at moving heat so it can't collect on the GPU die meaning less temp, pretty simple really.
> 
> Also it's already been proven that room temp is unaffected by cooling method other than if you have a pretty serious overclock, plenty rads for cooling the room could possibly get hotter as it's more efficient than air cooling.


Ithanul is saying his room is cooler with water, which makes no sense to me...


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Ithanul is saying his her room is cooler with water, which makes no sense to me...


I'm not saying my room is cooler. I am only saying my GPUs stay cooler considering my temps inside the house are higher.

This is the major reason I use water cooling. Otherwise, the temps for my computer hardware would be way higher.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I'm not saying my room is cooler. I am only saying my GPUs stay cooler considering my temps inside the house are higher.
> 
> This is the major reason I use water cooling. Otherwise, the temps for my computer hardware would be way higher.


Apologizes for the wrong adjective. Probably a 99% I would have been right.









I must have misread then, sorry. I thought you were saying your room temps got too high with air and you had to switch to water.

I agree that the components themselves run cooler with water. I might switch to AIO one day, but unlikely. Even with my 5820K OC'd @ 4.5 Ghz its pretty quiet with my massive 3-fan cooler, even when I was stress testing. I considered water for the graphics, but it seems like extra care/cost is needed to keep the memory chips cool and I'm not sure I care enough as the only time I'm working that component is when gaming...which has sound to mask.

I'm also not willing to risk a leak.

I'm trying to figure out how to get my rig quieter. I know pretty much anyone would consider it silent/near silent, but I can slightly hear it from my seat and I want to hear nothing. My last system was a laptop with one tiny fan that ran 'occasionally' and I could hear my CCFL bulbs in my monitors humming (which was louder from my seat than my PC). Now I have LED 4K panels and can faintly hear my PC. I'm okay hearing the HDD noise, but theres a slight wind noise, even at slow speeds. It could be case related, I know when my side fan turns on I can hear a buffeting sound, probably from the honeycomb. Arg.


----------



## Ithanul

It is alright. I kind of had a idea some misunderstanding was going on.

Probably don't help that grammar never been my strong point.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> Apologizes for the wrong adjective. Probably a 99% I would have been right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must have misread then, sorry. I thought you were saying your room temps got too high with air and you had to switch to water.
> 
> I agree that the components themselves run cooler with water. I might switch to AIO one day, but unlikely. Even with my 5820K OC'd @ 4.5 Ghz its pretty quiet with my massive 3-fan cooler, even when I was stress testing. I considered water for the graphics, but it seems like extra care/cost is needed to keep the memory chips cool and I'm not sure I care enough as the only time I'm working that component is when gaming...which has sound to mask.
> 
> I'm also not willing to risk a leak.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how to get my rig quieter. I know pretty much anyone would consider it silent/near silent, but I can slightly hear it from my seat and I want to hear nothing. My last system was a laptop with one tiny fan that ran 'occasionally' and I could hear my CCFL bulbs in my monitors humming (which was louder from my seat than my PC). Now I have LED 4K panels and can faintly hear my PC. I'm okay hearing the HDD noise, but theres a slight wind noise, even at slow speeds. It could be case related, I know when my side fan turns on I can hear a buffeting sound, probably from the honeycomb. Arg.


I'll never go back to air, the extra work and risk is way worth the hassle having everything silent while maxed out. Having seen so many AIOs fail for so many reasons it baffles me why they're still being bought, I decided that a custom loop was the only way forward for me in this hobby and I've never regretted that decision once. I've had 2 leaks in my 3 years watercooling, one was a faulty fitting from new which was found during leak testing stage the other was a reservoir top seal leak due to an aftermarket plug not doing the job correctly, it dripped on to my fans and dried for weeks before I noticed but nothing died.

Last time I was overclocking on air, my motherboard's vrm gave up on me and killed my board and my FX 8350 (RIP brave one!) I wouldn't mind but it was 4.7ghz and not even high voltage, heat is a terrible thing.

P.S. Ithanul is female.


----------



## Ithanul

I must be lucky with this one AIO then.

A Corsair H50 on a 1090T. Think it been on that for several years now. It still rocking and no pump noise or leaks. That consider I currently have it ghetto rig in my NZXT Apollo (my first case - stupid self went for looks then function back then). Zip ties can be so useful.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I must be lucky with this one AIO then.
> 
> A Corsair H50 on a 1090T. Think it been on that for several years now. It still rocking and no pump noise or leaks. That consider I currently have it ghetto rig in my NZXT Apollo (my first case - stupid self went for looks then function back then). Zip ties can be so useful.


You must be lucky indeed, I dunno tbh I keep reading about all these nightmares with them, I don't trust them. When AIO first came out my friend bought one and it refused to work out the box, he got an RMA one that was fine for a few months then stopped working mid gaming session so his rig shut down and I won the race on DIRT 3 lol. Maybe they're better now but I keep seeing faulty mounts on H100's etc and failed pumps etc, just rather stick with a custom loop.

I have enough spare parts now that I can throw into any rig that it doesn't cause me any issues at all.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You must be lucky indeed, I dunno tbh I keep reading about all these nightmares with them, I don't trust them. When AIO first came out my friend bought one and it refused to work out the box, he got an RMA one that was fine for a few months then stopped working mid gaming session so his rig shut down and I won the race on DIRT 3 lol. Maybe they're better now but I keep seeing faulty mounts on H100's etc and failed pumps etc, just rather stick with a custom loop.
> 
> I have enough spare parts now that I can throw into any rig that it doesn't cause me any issues at all.


That with anything. You going to have bad ones.

I just seem to be down right lucky with computer parts. Well, expect for the one OG Titan that died on me, and it was on stock clocks.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> That with anything. You going to have bad ones.
> 
> I just seem to be down right lucky with computer parts. Well, expect for the one OG Titan that died on me, and it was on stock clocks.


I know but it's too frequent to have so many bad ones. Anyway, I'm glad yours is fine however, unlucky on the OG titan, that just flat out sucks.


----------



## Dimensive

The original post has been updated completely.


----------



## Danzle

Can't wait to get my R5 some nice new sleeved cables and fans! I currently use the stock Fractal fans, stock Corsair cables and Noctua stuff. Next week replacing cables with the BitFenix CSR cable kit in black and five Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM with Noctua NA-SAVP1 chromax.black pads. Already painted the PCI covers black and bought some cable ties.

They current setup works just fine, but it doesn't feel right...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzle*
> 
> Can't wait to get my R5 some nice new sleeved cables and fans! I currently use the stock Fractal fans, stock Corsair cables and Noctua stuff. Next week replacing cables with the BitFenix CSR cable kit in black and five Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM with Noctua NA-SAVP1 chromax.black pads.


I would be EXTREMELY interested to hear your thoughts on the Noctua 140mm vs Fractal 140mm both at 12/7/5v WITHOUT the low noise adapters. Heck, I'd LOVE a video.

Its extremely tough to find comparisons that show decibel levels at equal CFM, which is all that really matters.

Any fan is quiet with those inline resistors...but which ones are quiet AND move air?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I would be EXTREMELY interested to hear your thoughts on the Noctua 140mm vs Fractal 140mm both at 12/7/5v WITHOUT the low noise adapters. Heck, I'd LOVE a video.
> 
> Its extremely tough to find comparisons that show decibel levels at equal CFM, which is all that really matters.
> 
> Any fan is quiet with those inline resistors...but which ones are quiet AND move air?


Haven't got a comparison but I can tell you personally that the NH-D14 is silent at full load.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Haven't got a comparison but I can tell you personally that the NH-D14 is silent at full load.


"Silent" is relative. I want numbers.

I'm too afraid to order 6 fans from newegg only to have to send them all back.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> "Silent" is relative. I want numbers.
> 
> I'm too afraid to order 6 fans from newegg only to have to send them all back.


True, but numbers often lie. The only numbers I believe are Noctua's and having bought ant used NF-F12's can tell you, they're silent... seriously.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> True, but numbers often lie. The only numbers I believe are Noctua's and having bought ant used NF-F12's can tell you, they're silent... seriously.


The only true comparison would be to have voltage on a potentiometer, lock in a certain CFM and compare dB's.

I've yet to see a proper fan comparison where there is only one variable.

If you were 3 feet from your tower and you'd get a million dollars if you could say if it was on or off and you couldn't tell..._thats_ silent.

SPCR is good, but its difficult to compare a fast number of products to each other.

I'd love a huge long list with the ability to sort by voltage, CFM or dB's.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> The only true comparison would be to have voltage on a potentiometer, lock in a certain CFM and compare dB's.
> 
> I've yet to see a proper fan comparison where there is only one variable.
> 
> If you were 3 feet from your tower and you'd get a million dollars if you could say if it was on or off and you couldn't tell..._thats_ silent.


I sit at my desk with my PC arm's length away.... It's silent. You've putting too much thought into this and need to take the risk or not. You can look at comparisons full of variables all day but when it comes to it, your experience will vary.

I have SP120s, fractal design 140s, NF-F12's, Bequiet 140s etc etc etc and I can tell you the best fans I've ever owned are my 3 NF-F12s. the LNA work great with my SP120s, they're quiet now.

Silence is very important to me, this is one of the reasons I'll never air cool again.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> True, but numbers often lie. The only numbers I believe are Noctua's and having bought ant used NF-F12's can tell you, they're silent... seriously.


Interesting.. Totally agree on the numbers as the tonality & vibration usually gives a very different impression from the measured dBA. And then often the sound level is not measured being on a rad or with some realistic resistance. But you can't trust any manufacturer's claim on CFM or dBA.

These type of graphs do help a lot (from thermalbench): CFM vs Noise


On the topic of Noctua,I haven't heard a good sounding Noctua yet. Tried 3 120mm's from them.. and it left me wondering why people rave about them.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Interesting.. Totally agree on the numbers as the tonality & vibration usually gives a very different impression from the measured dBA. And then often the sound level is not measured being on a rad or with some realistic resistance. But you can't trust any manufacturer's claim on CFM or dBA.
> 
> These type of graphs do help a lot (from thermalbench): CFM vs Noise
> 
> 
> On the topic of Noctua,I haven't heard a good sounding Noctua yet. Tried 3 120mm's from them.. and it left me wondering why people rave about them.


Because you actually get the quality you're paying for in all honesty. If I could kit out all my rigs with NF-F12's I would. I've had one issue with one of my fans now liking being horizontal between the other 2, but again I could send it back and get a fresh one with no issues. I don't use the fans in this orientation anyway.


----------



## Danzle

I don't really have a way of testing noise levels but i can tell you that the Fractal stock (100% over build in fan controller) are a little bit quieter than my NF-A14 PWM 1500rpm (100% over fan xpert 3) with the door closed. The NF-A15 currently installed on the NH-D15 are by far louder than either Fractal fans or the NF-A14 if run at 100%. I don't use any kind of LNA on the fans, only the rubber pads on the CPU fans. Fun fact: even my classfield cooler at 100% is quieter than my old gaming notebook in idle.









Fan positions:

Front intake: 1x Fractal stock, 1x NF-A14 1500rpm (no rubber pads)
Back exhaust: 1x Fractal stock
CPU Cooler: 2x NF-A15

I can give you a feedback how the industrial ones sound compared to the Fractal, but that's all i can deliver.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Because you actually get the quality you're paying for in all honesty. If I could kit out all my rigs with NF-F12's I would. I've had one issue with one of my fans now liking being horizontal between the other 2, but again I could send it back and get a fresh one with no issues. I don't use the fans in this orientation anyway.


If you're happy with that go for it. 'Quality' that irritates me all day long, is not very 'quality' to me. FYI I've tested those Noctuas horizontally & vertically. Its very likely the above tests where done vertically.

Edit: got my horizontal and vertical mix up


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> If you're happy with that go for it. 'Quality' that irritates me all day long, is not very 'quality' to me. FYI I've tested those horizontally. Its very likely the above tests where done horizontally as well.


Quality is subjective yes I understand but I didn't feel ripped off when I bought my NF's my SPs? I feel robbed, the bequiet fans? Robbed again. My NFs came with fan splitters, LNAs and extensions and the rubber stand off thingy ma bobs. Worth every penny and other fan makers should take note in all honesty.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quality is subjective yes I understand but I didn't feel ripped off when I bought my NF's my SPs? I feel robbed, the bequiet fans? Robbed again. My NFs came with fan splitters, LNAs and extensions and the rubber stand off thingy ma bobs. Worth every penny and other fan makers should take note in all honesty.


Happily agree with you there on the package: it's a complete package and it's nice when there's extras. And really, perhaps the 140mm ones sound better - I have not tried those. I went directly to the EK Vardars at around 2/3rd of the price and they've seriously impressed me (but yes that's pressure fans this time).

The worth every penny thing .. let's say it's not what came to mind when I found (1.5 years ago) that Scythe Glidestreams were less than half the price, had better noise & vibration and still came with black sleeved cabling. Perhaps the reason it doesn't come with LNAs and rubbery bobs...


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Happily agree with you there on the package: it's a complete package and it's nice when there's extras. And really, perhaps the 140mm ones sound better - I have not tried those. I went directly to the EK Vardars at around 2/3rd of the price and they've seriously impressed me (but yes that's pressure fans this time).
> 
> The worth every penny thing .. let's say it's not what came to mind when I found (1.5 years ago) that Scythe Glidestreams were less than half the price, had better noise & vibration and still came with black sleeved cabling. Perhaps the reason it doesn't come with LNAs and rubbery bobs...


I have the Vardar fans too but I've not heard them spin up yet still building my loop, not overly impressed with their feel etc but time will tell. It's subjective like I said, if given the choice, 8 free nf-f12s or 8 vardars then I'd go the noctua route without second thought.


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danzle*
> 
> I don't really have a way of testing noise levels but i can tell you that the Fractal stock (100% over build in fan controller) are a little bit quieter than my NF-A14 PWM 1500rpm (100% over fan xpert 3) with the door closed. The NF-A15 currently installed on the NH-D15 are by far louder than either Fractal fans or the NF-A14 if run at 100%. I don't use any kind of LNA on the fans, only the rubber pads on the CPU fans. Fun fact: even my classfield cooler at 100% is quieter than my old gaming notebook in idle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan positions:
> 
> Front intake: 1x Fractal stock, 1x NF-A14 1500rpm (no rubber pads)
> Back exhaust: 1x Fractal stock
> CPU Cooler: 2x NF-A15
> 
> I can give you a feedback how the industrial ones sound compared to the Fractal, but that's all i can deliver.


Managed by Asus AI Suite with all fans between 400-700 rpm (set as slow as AI Suite will let them go), I've got:

Front intake: 2x Fractal 140mm
Side intake: 1x Fractal 140mm (usually off)
Top exhaust: 1x Fractal 140mm (to blow on external mechanical HDD)
Rear exhaust: 1x Fractal 140mm
CPU: 1x 140mm Zalman, 2x 120mm Antec Tri-cool
Extra: 1x 120mm (Behind HDD Cage, to pull air through mechanical HDD's)


----------



## Lodbroke

Always want "home electronics boxes" in some cooler and lighter colors than the "standard plain black".

So, repainted my FD Core1300 case white, but didn't want to strip it down completely (it works well and I'm quite lazy).
Only repainted all those parts that are easy to remove. The front (3 parts) and the sides.


The core of Core1300 Had to replace the FD 3-pin fans with 4-pins(PWM?) as my Gigabyte Motherboard only took 4-pins


Being one of the first times I ever holding spray cans, lots of first-timer mistakes are visible, also I painted outdoors that evening when the gnats came out in numbers for the first time this summer, some of them is forever stuck to the Core1300 case







.
Painted both the metal sides and the plastic front parts 1 layer of primer+2 layer of white paint+1 layer of clear coat.

The brown dots holds the Fan Filters. On the 1300's top is the Receiver for the wireless keyboard+mouse
Else the computer is the family game-comp, with an AMD FX-6350 cpu + a MSI GTX 970 gpu +8GB RAM + 250GB SSD + ODD)

Please, Fractal Design sell your cases in more colors than black. Wheels sets as an optional add-on would be nice too...


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> Please, Fractal Design sell your cases in more colors than black.


I love all case colors as long as they're windowless and black...the correct choice.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I love all case colors as long as they're windowless and black...the correct choice.


the spirit of Henry Ford lives on


----------



## Benjiw

I need to spray my case in red, cream and metallic red cracks like octopus skin.


----------



## JackCY

FDs only black? No they also have white and if you need a different color a can of spray paint etc. isn't that expensive. Bothered about warranty on a piece of metal that will what? I don't know. In such a case there is plastidip.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> FDs only black? No they also have white and if you need a different color a can of spray paint etc. isn't that expensive. Bothered about warranty on a piece of metal that will what? I don't know. In such a case there is plastidip.


Agreed but most people aren't comfortable drilling their case rivets out, learning how to spray and seal the paint correctly etc. It's best to do the job properly for the best results or it will just look bad quite frankly.


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, some come in white, only reason I did not get a white one is because for some crazy reason they charged more for it on Amazon and Newegg.

So went with the windowless black one instead. As others have said, nothing some modding and spray can can't fix.







(Warning: Lady with power tools)







I love my power tools, especially my new 20V drill. Need to find something big to build with it so far only used it to make drain holes in for my container garden.


----------



## 44TZL

Here's my new build-in-progress with the Define S after a bit of modding. The PSU moved to the front so I could use both the bottom (280) and top (420) as exhaust, with the front just fans as intake, so no hot air gets blown back into the case. The radiators are GTS XFlows which are quite handy for running less tubing.


----------



## JackCY

Yup, still there are paint options that are all in one which I think most spray cans are anyway, of course having a friend in a car shop painting a car white with pro tools and pro paint etc. is better but then the default paint cases come with doesn't really look like expensive car paint, it's just some powder coat or what ever.

I got R4 Titanium exactly because it was the cheapest out of all the color options, though I would probably skip white anyway. I think the titanium version with painted front panel looks better than when the front panel is just the raw black unpainted plastic on black version.

New filter material coming in, finally bought it, couldn't stand seeing how much dust the FD filters let into the case especially the bottom one.

44TZL: angled powercord







I don't know if they still sell them much but I use one old one on my monitor.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Here's my new build-in-progress with the Define S after a bit of modding. The PSU moved to the front so I could use both the bottom (280) and top (420) as exhaust, with the front just fans as intake, so no hot air gets blown back into the case. The radiators are GTS XFlows which are quite handy for running less tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Interesting mod, are you able to close the back panel easily with the cables hooked up to the PSU?


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Interesting mod, are you able to close the back panel easily with the cables hooked up to the PSU?


Yes easily. But none of my psu cables used are of the 'bundled into a big round stiff bundle' variety.


----------



## qvist

I'm going to cut away the res mounting portion of the define S tray to be able to mount a E-ATX board in the define S. By doing so the mobo wont have its right most screws holes filled, does this change anything no? As long as i support the mobo when connecting the 24 pin power cable right?


----------



## fieldrequired

Hi guys,

Does anyone know whether the H115i would fit mounted in the front of the Define Nano S along with a GTX1080?

Cheers


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qvist*
> 
> I'm going to cut away the res mounting portion of the define S tray to be able to mount a E-ATX board in the define S. By doing so the mobo wont have its right most screws holes filled, does this change anything no? As long as i support the mobo when connecting the 24 pin power cable right?


Not sure, I plan to do that myself since I am trying to fit a RIVE BE into one. Just have yet to get my lazy butt around to cutting the case.

Plan to try this weekend to get time to do so since the weather being nice, but very hot. Just depends how much homework the Math teacher at the Uni going to give me tonight to do through the week and weekend.


----------



## Danzle

Did my cables today! Really happy how it turned out.









Befor:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Now:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










My NF-A14 Industrial 2000RPM for the CPU cooler and the black Chromax didn't come in time. Will add them latter on. The cables i use are the BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 CSR Kit Black and they're awesome! Really nice quality and easy to handle. Didn't use the included combs since it looks somewhat not good. The new fans are the NF-A14 Industrial 3000RPM, which are CHF5 cheaper than those 2000RPM and actually on stock...


----------



## JackCY

Those 3k rpm fans are good for a vacuum cleaner or making a floating case. I don't know how anyone can listen to 140mm fans above 750rpm all day. They are good fans but kind of useless for everyday use if you can't slow them down to 500-1000rpm at which point might have just bought any other fan and fill the whole case with fans for the price of one Noctua Industrial series fan.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I got R4 Titanium exactly because it was the cheapest out of all the color options, though I would probably skip white anyway. I think the titanium version with painted front panel looks better than when the front panel is just the raw black unpainted plastic on black version.
> 
> 44TZL: angled powercord
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if they still sell them much but I use one old one on my monitor.


Yes. It's arriving today. Angled connector > IEC socket at the back > normal cable









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Interesting mod, are you able to close the back panel easily with the cables hooked up to the PSU?


Here's the situation at the back. Will tidy this up once the cable extensions come in.


----------



## Danzle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Those 3k rpm fans are good for a vacuum cleaner or making a floating case. I don't know how anyone can listen to 140mm fans above 750rpm all day. They are good fans but kind of useless for everyday use if you can't slow them down to 500-1000rpm at which point might have just bought any other fan and fill the whole case with fans for the price of one Noctua Industrial series fan.


Till 60% i can't hear them, till 80% i can hear them but it's nothing compared to my "idle" notebook. 6700K @4.5GHz 1.29V + Prime95 and the system stays quiet and cool (81°C max) with a silent fancurve. I could have bought 6-7 fans for the price, i agree, but i didn't want to.


----------



## b4db0y

Hey guys,

I am looking to purchase a Define S and I wanted to know if these radiators would fit. According to the manual (http://www.fractal-design.com/media/328f36b3-c9f0-44e2-9b76-3e3be0615542 ) the case should be able to fit a thick 360mm radiator in the front and a thin 360mm radiator on the top. Does anyone know if this setup will actually work though? A lot of the builds I see are using thin radiators or a 360mm on top and 240mm in the front.

Thanks.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am looking to purchase a Define S and I wanted to know if these radiators would fit. According to the manual (http://www.fractal-design.com/media/328f36b3-c9f0-44e2-9b76-3e3be0615542 ) the case should be able to fit a thick 360mm radiator in the front and a thin 360mm radiator on the top. Does anyone know if this setup will actually work though? A lot of the builds I see are using thin radiators or a 360mm on top and 240mm in the front.
> 
> Thanks.


It fits a thick 360 rad up top as well as up front.. but of course at some point the two will interfere. What thickness are you thinking of?
If you look around you'll be able to a see quite a few twin 360 builds.

People who ran into trouble have often mounted the fans on the outside/front (within the front cover still).. which immediately frees up 25mm. That setup impedes airflow a bit, but still acceptable if you're not fussed about the magnetic filter having to go in a drawer.

The thin limitation is more for 280/420 rads up top.. or in case you have 5cm+ tall RAM with 240/360. I'm running a 466mm long rad up top, so you can see there's quite a bit of space left for a front rad.


----------



## b4db0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> It fits a thick 360 rad up top as well as up front.. but of course at some point the two will interfere. What thickness are you thinking of?
> If you look around you'll be able to a see quite a few twin 360 builds.
> 
> People who ran into trouble have often mounted the fans on the outside/front (within the front cover still).. which immediately frees up 25mm. That setup impedes airflow a bit, but still acceptable if you're not fussed about the magnetic filter having to go in a drawer.
> 
> The thin limitation is more for 280/420 rads up top.. or in case you have 5cm+ tall RAM with 240/360. I'm running a 466mm long rad up top, so you can see there's quite a bit of space left for a front rad.


EK CoolStream 360XE(60mm thickness) in the front and Black Ice GTS360(30mm thickness) on the top.


----------



## DI360

I have to cut that red LED.

Before:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## JackCY

I like the copper one more than yet another milk machine.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4db0y*
> 
> EK CoolStream 360XE(60mm thickness) in the front and Black Ice GTS360(30mm thickness) on the top.


Measurements for the top rad:

from center of most front 360 mounting hole > front of the case: 73mm
from center of most back 360 mounting hole > back of the case: 58mm (takes into account the protruding 120mm fan mounts)

Your scenario, XE in front:
19 mm for the end of the GTS + 60mm for the XE is more than 73mm, so this would ONLY work if you move the GTS360 backwards
>> This probably looks best but you may need to drill some extra holes.

Another fit - XE on top:, GTS in front
This fits...my guess it's about a 15mm for the XE (short end) + 55mm for the GTS + fans or + 30mm with fans outside (better airflow)
>> Works without modding required


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Measurements for the top rad:
> 
> from center of most front 360 mounting hole > front of the case: 73mm
> from center of most back 360 mounting hole > back of the case: 58mm (takes into account the protruding 120mm fan mounts)
> 
> Your scenario, XE in front:
> 19 mm for the end of the GTS + 60mm for the XE is more than 73mm, so this would ONLY work if you move the GTS360 backwards
> >> This probably looks best but you may need to drill some extra holes.
> 
> Another fit - XE on top:, GTS in front
> This fits...my guess it's about a 15mm for the XE (short end) + 55mm for the GTS + fans or + 30mm with fans outside (better airflow)
> >> Works without modding required


Rad on the outside of the case, drill some holes into the facia fans on the inside of the case is my plan for my 420 up top and my 360 on the front.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Rad on the outside of the case, drill some holes into the facia fans on the inside of the case is my plan for my 420 up top and my 360 on the front.


Nice idea...post some pics when you're doing that!

Like this??


Personally...after having gone 140mm (420 top, 280 bottom)... can't go back to those miniature fans


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Nice idea...post some pics when you're doing that!
> 
> Personally...after having gone 140mm (420 top, 280 bottom)... can't go back to those miniature fans


Me neither, 140mm everywhere except the damn GPUs that still are stuck with 100mm fans







I don't know why they don't just whack on it 2x120mm instead of 2-3x 100m high speed fans. I guess the thickness would be 3 slot minimum... :/

---

Mesh comparison, Fractal Design Define R4 front and bottom filter compared with a stainless steel #200 mesh 99 micron aperture 28 micron wire from themeshcompany.
Ordered via eBay, wanted an A2 sheet but having to exchange 1 message per day and waiting over weekend, lets say I got tired on Monday and just ordered the A3 single sheet, they did offer me afterwards a cheaper shipped A2 sheet but I've already had my order done and paid and they didn't modify it so I could pay them for the A2. Nonetheless they give some extra sheet I think at random or what ever they have at hand with every order at least on eBay, what I got is two A3 sheet, none marked with mesh number so at first I was like damn it which one is #200 and the other possibly #270? Well close examination of their structure and cut revealed they are the same mesh 290x850mm cut into two 290x425mm pieces. Too bad it's not the 300mm it should be but I got two so it should be fine and I can decide how to best replace the stock FD R4 filter mesh.



This is a macro shot (flashlight, white paper, mesh, camera on top of it with 0cm focus) of the meshes, parameters calculated from PS measurements and verified with a hand held ruler.
The front #33 filter is OKish but still nothing extraordinary and lets in dust, what is especially bad on the R4 is the bottom filter that has too low mesh number and lets in way too much dust.
From what I remember but can't find anymore the demciflex filters are about #100-#200 mesh, plastic in two colors, no idea who makes the mesh or they make it themselves, I've tried to find any mesh and no one makes this fine and very open plastic mesh. No idea how much open area the demci filters have either but I would say metal mesh can be made with thinner wires than plastic/nylon/whatever synthetic.

Themeshcompany makes stainlessteel meshes from stuff to put on grills, from #1 down to #500. The #200 is the most open area mesh I could find anywhere it does block air pressure more than the stock meshes when I blow on it but numbers wise it's as open as the horrible bottom filter while having a whole order better filtering. It's stainless steel = conductive, I checked.

I'm not sure the filter will melt into the plastic frames since it's so fine, will see. Otherwise I'm gonna have to sew it on or something. Ideas? How would you attach a metal filter/replace the stock plastic mesh on FD plastic filter frames? Anyone knows some glue that would work? I'm in EU so I won't know what fancy American glue you mean, try to be generic


----------



## MartinH

Just finished with the latest cooling upgrade. Went from a dcp 2.2 and 480mm of rad, to a D5 with 720mm of rad. Nothing compared to some of the builds in this post, but it isnt too bad.

Define S


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Me neither, 140mm everywhere except the damn GPUs that still are stuck with 100mm fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know why they don't just whack on it 2x120mm instead of 2-3x 100m high speed fans. I guess the thickness would be 3 slot minimum... :/
> 
> ....
> 
> Themeshcompany makes stainlessteel meshes from stuff to put on grills, from #1 down to #500. The #200 is the most open area mesh I could find anywhere it does block air pressure more than the stock meshes when I blow on it but numbers wise it's as open as the horrible bottom filter while having a whole order better filtering. It's stainless steel = conductive, I checked.
> 
> I'm not sure the filter will melt into the plastic frames since it's so fine, will see. Otherwise I'm gonna have to sew it on or something. Ideas? How would you attach a metal filter/replace the stock plastic mesh on FD plastic filter frames? Anyone knows some glue that would work? I'm in EU so I won't know what fancy American glue you mean, try to be generic


Great post thank you. Was wondering about good looking meshes, although not for dust reasons but the mesh company is a great find.

That said, I do like the option of having a fine, but open mesh though. I'll need to do some testing with that because until now I found all meshes impeding airflow a lot (so for now, I'll just vacuum my case from time to time). Decmi btw is still available here (just don't like their ugly edges).

As for the the glue I don't think it would be too critical since the contact area is fairly large. Also couple of points with glue from a glue gun would work (and is removable too): put the nozzle on the side then squeeze it in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MartinH*
> 
> Just finished with the latest cooling upgrade. Went from a dcp 2.2 and 480mm of rad, to a D5 with 720mm of rad. Nothing compared to some of the builds in this post, but it isnt too bad.


Like it! Most builds run the top rad with the connector bits at the back which gives such a tubing mess.. this is quite clean, keeping it all at the front.


----------



## JackCY

With a coarse mesh the mesh would absorb the glue, plastic etc. and melt together but I'm not sure this fine mesh is gonna bond well, will see, I'm gonna test some pieces soon. I have a hot glue gun will give that a try too. Demci is all nice and dandy but all they do is magnetic filters with huge edges. Dunno why they don't 3D print hard edged filters, I would do that if I had a 3D printer, just print a frame, put the mesh over it and print the rest over the mesh so it all melts together. The stock meshes are melted together too.

This is their eBay. And web. Ebay has limited assortment, web has it all, prices differ so check both. Web has free UK delivery... Getting larger sizes in one piece internationally gets costy because of big package. My A3 sheets were not rolled or folded, it was a flat A3 package. They have some 60-64% open area meshes around #100. The #200 is the finest you can get from them that is above 60% open area, it's like silk


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Nice idea...post some pics when you're doing that!
> 
> Like this??
> 
> 
> Personally...after having gone 140mm (420 top, 280 bottom)... can't go back to those miniature fans


I want as much rad space as possible to get me as close to 5ghz as possible regardless of voltage, so long as I can keep the heat down on my 4670k practice/sacrifice chip ready for the real deal which will be either a skylake build or an x99 or whatever the new extreme chips come to.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MartinH*
> 
> Just finished with the latest cooling upgrade. Went from a dcp 2.2 and 480mm of rad, to a D5 with 720mm of rad. Nothing compared to some of the builds in this post, but it isnt too bad.
> 
> Define S
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oooooh, blue just like my gf's rig.



If you have a Vario D5 check out my thumbscrew mod, make life easy.


----------



## MartinH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Like it! Most builds run the top rad with the connector bits at the back which gives such a tubing mess.. this is quite clean, keeping it all at the front.


Thank you! I used to have the connectors in the back, but thought it looked better in the front.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Oooooh, blue just like my gf's rig.
> If you have a Vario D5 check out my thumbscrew mod, make life easy.


Nothing wrong with some blue cooling








Its a D5 PWM. Where do you use those thumbscrews?


----------



## paskowitz

Out of curiosity are there any Define R4s with the GPU mounted on the vertical PCI bracket?


----------



## JackCY

You can do that with a single slot card and a raiser.

---

The fine mesh #200 melts perfectly into the plastic, invisible just soaks into it, super strong bond. Cut the original plastic mesh out, finishing tomorrow and melt the new stainless steel mesh into the plastic frames.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MartinH*
> 
> Thank you! I used to have the connectors in the back, but thought it looked better in the front.
> Nothing wrong with some blue cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a D5 PWM. Where do you use those thumbscrews?


On the speed knob for the vario, drill a pilot hole then work your way up to 3mm, once done you can screw it in as the plastic is kinda soft.


----------



## tongerks

is a 280mm rad fits on fractal arc mini r2 on top? planning to buy h240x2 tomorrow. TIA


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tongerks*
> 
> is a 280mm rad fits on fractal arc mini r2 on top? planning to buy h240x2 tomorrow. TIA


Not sure about that one but it really depends on the radiator. Something about the mounting holes on the top of the mini makes it hit or miss. For instance my ek predator 240 won't fit.


----------



## RebelHell

Guess I can join the club now...
Just finished my first custom water cooling in a Fractal Design Node 804.

Cooling system:
EK water blocks, rads, res/pump
BitsPower fittings and tubing
Mayhems Pastel White Coolant

Hardware:
Asus Maximus VI Impact
Intel Core i7-4770K
16 GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer
Nvidia GTX 780 ti
2x Crucial M500 480 GB SSD RAID 0
Corsair AX860i PSU

I've made a few modifications since these images were taken, most notably I now have red/black cables instead of the white. Updated pictures are on the way.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Guess I can join the club now...
> Just finished my first custom water cooling in a Fractal Design Node 804.
> 
> Cooling system:
> EK water blocks, rads, res/pump
> BitsPower fittings and tubing
> Mayhems Pastel White Coolant
> 
> Hardware:
> Asus Maximus VI Impact
> Intel Core i7-4770K
> 16 GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer
> Nvidia GTX 780 ti
> 2x Crucial M500 480 GB SSD RAID 0
> Corsair AX860i PSU
> 
> I've made a few modifications since these images were taken, most notably I now have red/black cables instead of the white. Updated pictures are on the way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice build, very clean!


----------



## viking21

Hi guys, I need some advice about the kraken x41 into the R5. What's the best way to place the aio fan keeping the top closed? May I get a good airflow with the radiator at the back and its fan mounted internally without push pull?


----------



## JackCY

FD R4, fan filters refitted with #200 stainless steel mesh = 99micron aperture and 60.77% open area.
Now only to clean out all the dust that the stock filters let in, it's awful.

Bottom side where the mesh is melted into the original frames, clean top side, and installed.




I've also cut out the excessive grills in the front fan filter. Plus cut down that huge release notch on the front fans bay that was making the original filter always getting stuck and dragging over it, I don't know why dumb made that release notch so big it interfered with filter being taken in/out.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> FD R4, fan filters refitted with #200 stainless steel mesh = 99micron aperture and 60.77% open area.
> Now only to clean out all the dust that the stock filters let in, it's awful.
> 
> Bottom side where the mesh is melted into the original frames, clean top side, and installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've also cut out the excessive grills in the front fan filter. Plus cut down that huge release notch on the front fans bay that was making the original filter always getting stuck and dragging over it, I don't know why dumb made that release notch so big it interfered with filter being taken in/out.


I wish there was a good resource for locating better filter materials. I ended up using speaker cloth for one of mine and it doesn't allow any flow at all. =(


----------



## JackCY

I use a mesh recommended to me here on OCN, links previous posts, from themeshcompany. It's a stainless steel mesh, they have open area 60-64% and you can get mesh size #100 to #200 in that maximum open area they offer. It sure does block pressure, but then so did the stock filters that were awful








I went with the most filtering #200 option which is similar to Demciflex or better.

Demciflex is only soft frame magnetic and expensive, similar filters in size from Demci cost $35 without shipping.
I paid around $24 including shipping that was more expensive than the A3 mesh, plus I have enough left overs to make 2 extra dual 140mm fan filters and 2 extra dual 120mm fan filters since I got 2 A3 sheets for price of 1 of the same mesh and I only used about 35% of the total area I bought.

Clotch is not gonna cut it, or curtains, it doesn't have the open area %.

This #200 mesh is so fine the wire it's made from is like hair, so thin you can barely see it, which is good and bad, good for the filter but bad to clean up and see, plus it's conductive so one has to keep a track of where that crap flies. Good thing is it's very easy to cut, hell even easier than paper to me with a modeling knife.

Temperature on my soldering iron I've had set to about 210 Celsius. I didn't have to fill the whole area but once you have the edges there is really not much left so I melted the whole area so the filter is attached everywhere. The frames bent a little under the heat and pressure applied but it actually made them much easier to take in/out









I've waited like a year to do this mod, in the end I just couldn't stand the sight of all the dust in the case and how useless the stock FD filters are.


----------



## Benjiw

I clean my PC too much to bother with restricting airflow with filters, I'm getting an air compressor at some point so even easier cleaning.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I clean my PC too much to bother with restricting airflow with filters, I'm getting an air compressor at some point so even easier cleaning.


I just use my Kirby vacuum cleaner.







Put it in blower setup then switch back to vacuum setup to pick up all the dust. Or I lazy and use a dust cloth on a few parts.


----------



## JackCY

The fine dust really sticks to everything, would need quite some pressure on the surface with air blower to make it dislodge. Without filters sure the big particles are easy to get rid of with a vacuum cleaner or blower








I don't really vacuum the case, too much work







Filters work for me that is when the filters work lol These should


----------



## Lodbroke

Our game computer in a Core 1300 case is less than a year old and the dust haven't had time to build up yet.

Used our Vacuum cleaner and a painbrush to clean out the worst dust in our HTPC from 2012. Carefully removing "dust-rats" from components and into the hoover.
I know about the risk of ESD damage on components, but had none, as the old HTPC is still working.

Actually my grandfather used a paintbrush to remove dust from vinyl-records, as he said the paintbrush not only removed dust but also ESD-neutralized the records and a more proper sound of them (I guess he was an Audiophile).


Same idea but grand dad used ordinary paintbrushes


----------



## Duality92

Dust your place. I've had a PC running full tilt in the workshop for over a year and it's dustless. Oh, it's not even in a case.


----------



## Lodbroke

@Duality92
Agree with you, but then again.
Shores and no fun makes Lodbroke, something not nice


----------



## Ithanul

Kind of hard to keep a old trailer dust free in the country side when you got a neighbor with two full size production chicken houses behind ya, cows, and a watermelon field.









Yep, I leave out in the middle of middle no where farm land area.







Nearest city is 30-35mins away.

When I was stationed in North Cali in a small city. I hardly ever had to dust the rigs. Now....it about once a week, especially the 24/7 folder. Thing seems to eat dust up or something.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I just use my Kirby vacuum cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put it in blower setup then switch back to vacuum setup to pick up all the dust. Or I lazy and use a dust cloth on a few parts.


I use an old paint brush with soft bristles. Cleaned several PC's with it and never had an issue plus it does a great job honestly.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Dust your place. I've had a PC running full tilt in the workshop for over a year and it's dustless. Oh, it's not even in a case.


I dust and hoover my apartment all the time, the dust never stops. I live in a city though, when it rains on our balcony, even though the rain never hits the doors, the glass gets full of dirt.


----------



## GlowingBurrito

Hey all. I've got a Define S and currently have a 360 rad on the front set as intake and a 240 rad at the top location set as exhaust. I was wondering if it would be a better set up to swap the locations of the radiators?


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlowingBurrito*
> 
> Hey all. I've got a Define S and currently have a 360 rad on the front set as intake and a 240 rad at the top location set as exhaust. I was wondering if it would be a better set up to swap the locations of the radiators?


Three fans in and two out? Sounds bueno to me, assuming no other case fans. Positive case pressure is a good thing. You get much less dust in the case that way as long as your intakes are filtered. I'd leave it as is. But as far as temperatures go it really won't make a difference one way or the other.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Three fans in and two out? Sounds bueno to me, assuming no other case fans. Positive case pressure is a good thing. You get much less dust in the case that way as long as your intakes are filtered. I'd leave it as is. But as far as temperatures go it really won't make a difference one way or the other.


I've had two R5s(which is basically same as define s) and there was no dust whatsoever over a year of using no matter what fan configuration I had( one was 3 intake fans on front on a rad, two exhaust fans on rad up top, other one 2 front intakes, 3 top exhaust and rear exhaust). R5 is one of the best designed cases in terms of ventilation, my temps inside the case were never much higher than ambient temp. R5 has got so much venting area thst you won't be able to make positive or negative presssure inside the case, to many vents all around the case.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> I've had two R5s(which is basically same as define s) and there was no dust whatsoever over a year of using no matter what fan configuration I had( one was 3 intake fans on front on a rad, two exhaust fans on rad up top, other one 2 front intakes, 3 top exhaust and rear exhaust). R5 is one of the best designed cases in terms of ventilation, my temps inside the case were never much higher than ambient temp. R5 has got so much venting area thst you won't be able to make positive or negative presssure inside the case, to many vents all around the case.


I would guess that "no dust" is not a typical result for people. I'll be honest, I'm new to Fractal Design cases but I don't see them having a magic dust repelling design that nobody else has. And I don't really think positive pressure is possible in any measurable amount in any case. The whole point of having more intake fans than exhaust is to make sure that all the unfiltered passive venting in the case is used to exhaust the excess air from your intakes. With more exhaust fans you will be pulling unfiltered air passed the filters. If you have a relatively dust free environment then this won't matter much. I don't think this is the case for most people though.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I would guess that "no dust" is not a typical result for people. I'll be honest, I'm new to Fractal Design cases but I don't see them having a magic dust repelling design that nobody else has. And I don't really think positive pressure is possible in any measurable amount in any case. The whole point of having more intake fans than exhaust is to make sure that all the unfiltered passive venting in the case is used to exhaust the excess air from your intakes. With more exhaust fans you will be pulling unfiltered air passed the filters. If you have a relatively dust free environment then this won't matter much. I don't think this is the case for most people though.


definitely it depends on where you live.
I live in the UK, literally 500 metres from sea so humidity is crazy all year long. However, I had Nzxt s300 some time ago and one month was enough to dust everything inside the case.
You can say case is a case, all built very similar but it's details that makes difference. For some reason R5 is one of the "coolest" cases, despite being just another case.


----------



## GlowingBurrito

Cool thanks for the info. I don't have too many issues with dust so I'll just leave it as is for now.


----------



## Jyve

With all this talk of dust, filters, and vacuum cleaners I feel the urge once again to post what I use.

DATAVAC FTW!

I haven't bought canned air in a decade!


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> With all this talk of dust, filters, and vacuum cleaners I feel the urge once again to post what I use.
> 
> DATAVAC FTW!
> 
> I haven't bought canned air in a decade!


So you own a DataVac and an Arc Mini R2, you've got good taste.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> So you own a DataVac and an Arc Mini R2, you've got good taste.


I've got a DataVac and a Node 804...what does that say about me?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> I've got a DataVac and a Node 804...what does that say about me?


Good taste, can't go wrong with a Data Vac & Fractal Design case.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Good taste, can't go wrong with a Data Vac & Fractal Design case.


Lol, I think I have to agree.


----------



## 44TZL

Picture of my modded Define S that starting to get nearer to completion (sleeved cables+1080+water block on order)


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> So you own a DataVac and an Arc Mini R2, you've got good taste.


Haha. Thanks. I like to think I do


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> definitely it depends on where you live.
> I live in the UK, literally 500 metres from sea so humidity is crazy all year long. However, I had Nzxt s300 some time ago and one month was enough to dust everything inside the case.
> You can say case is a case, all built very similar but it's details that makes difference. For some reason R5 is one of the "coolest" cases, despite being just another case.


Humidity helps to bring the dust down and not fly around, especially around the coast etc.
Living in a dusty city or inland, dry, with carpets and drapes, endless new dust :/


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> With all this talk of dust, filters, and vacuum cleaners I feel the urge once again to post what I use.
> 
> DATAVAC FTW!
> 
> I haven't bought canned air in a decade!


I can say for sure, a DATAVAC certainly does not suck


----------



## JackCY

I couldn't find anything like this Datavac blower on EU market, or very hard to get







or too expensive.


----------



## delslow

I wonder why FD didn't have anything to show off at Computex?


----------



## JackCY

Maybe the cases aren't an RGB show off from Asia?


----------



## victorma

Just some pictures of my recently completed Define Nano S + GTX 1080/i6-6700K/Maximums VIII Impact.


----------



## TheShadow

Nice job! I saw EK, Paul from Paul's Hardware, and Josh from Fractal Design all retweeted your picture!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *victorma*
> 
> Just some pictures of my recently completed Define Nano S + GTX 1080/i6-6700K/Maximums VIII Impact.


----------



## daikixD

i just receive a while ago the fractal arc2 mini fan controller replacement.
to all user of this case. do you have any problem after you install the new fan controller?


----------



## PowerK

Hi folks.

I really would like to go for Fractal Design Define R5 or Define S for my next build.
5960X + Rampage V Extreme (E-ATX) + GTX1080 SLI

Does anyone here using Define R5 or Define S with Rampage V Extreme E-ATX motherboard ?
I've done some Google search, and got conflicting feedback. Some say E-ATX board does not fit while others say E-ATX fits in Define R5/S.

Also, how's the cooling performance with Define R5 or S cases ? I intend to use Corsair H115i AIO cooler for CPU and keep 1080 SLI air-cooled.

Many thanks.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PowerK*
> 
> Hi folks.
> 
> I really would like to go for Fractal Design Define R5 or Define S for my next build.
> 5960X + Rampage V Extreme (E-ATX) + GTX1080 SLI
> 
> Does anyone here using Define R5 or Define S with Rampage V Extreme E-ATX motherboard ?
> I've done some Google search, and got conflicting feedback. Some say E-ATX board does not fit while others say E-ATX fits in Define R5/S.
> 
> Also, how's the cooling performance with Define R5 or S cases ? I intend to use Corsair H115i AIO cooler for CPU and keep 1080 SLI air-cooled.
> 
> Many thanks.


Having the Define S next to me, I don't see how you'll fit in the 25mm / inch in extra motherboard width in there - at least with the standard spacers. If it was only 10mm wider than ATX it may just fit - some EATX boards are not as wide as the Rampage


----------



## JackCY

Some EATX fit because they are not as wide as some other. The problem is the silly raised panel they've added with R5 and S. Not that R4 has support for EATX either the posts aren't there but it had infinite space at least.

You will have to mod to fit an EATX. Or find a different case that has proper EATX support, usually they are big.


----------



## Ithanul

Yep, I know I got to mod mine so I can fit the RIVBE into it.

If you not afraid of doing dremel work to a case.


----------



## Ktech

Anyone have a Define Mini? How's the cable management depth behind the motherboard? I read a "review" on newegg saying he barely had enough room for the 24 pin cable.. which seems odd to me.


----------



## JackCY

It's gonna be tight, it's narrower than the bigger cases and has only 120mm rear fan as a result as well. R4 is just ok, once you order and tighten the cables it is just right but some smaller case with less space, yeah that's not gonna close without some careful management of cables not crossing over each other etc.

I would just get any other small case, as cheap as possible and DIY what you want on it. Soundproofing the side panels is not that expensive and that stuff is sold for sound proofing cars.
Case makers aren't really that smart when it comes to designing the cases.


----------



## Ktech

Ok, second question then.

I've got a fractal 1500.. one thing that bothers me, is the back panel (behind motherboard) doesn't have "teeth" on the top and bottom. Which means any cables behind the tray (24pin for example) causes the panel to bow out.

Does the newer R5 have this issue?


----------



## SavageBrat

Hey folks, have a question going to do an air cooled build with a Node 804, with a Asus Gene Vlll, 6700k and going to cool the cpu with a Dark Rock Pro 3.
My question is how/ best way to set up my fans, I have 10 Cooler Master JetFlo fans 120 mm (yes overkill as I don't need them all ?..) I have 4 in the front as intakes, 2 in the rear as exhust but what about the top? I did remove the air filter off the top. Thanks in advance,,


----------



## Gunfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ktech*
> 
> Ok, second question then.
> 
> I've got a fractal 1500.. one thing that bothers me, is the back panel (behind motherboard) doesn't have "teeth" on the top and bottom. Which means any cables behind the tray (24pin for example) causes the panel to bow out.
> 
> Does the newer R5 have this issue?


I didn't notice that issue when I built in mine, it has quite a bit of space in the back there


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ktech*
> 
> Anyone have a Define Mini? How's the cable management depth behind the motherboard? I read a "review" on newegg saying he barely had enough room for the 24 pin cable.. which seems odd to me.


I found it totally perfect but when you have those thick (non modular type) cable bundles it get trickier. The flat and quite flexible Silverstone cables I was using left plenty of room.
My advice make use of the extra space you get near the deeper drive area.

My build from a couple of months ago:


----------



## Lodbroke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hey folks, have a question going to do an air cooled build with a Node 804, with a Asus Gene Vlll, 6700k and going to cool the cpu with a Dark Rock Pro 3.
> My question is how/ best way to set up my fans, I have 10 Cooler Master JetFlo fans 120 mm (yes overkill as I don't need them all ?..) I have 4 in the front as intakes, 2 in the rear as exhust but what about the top? I did remove the air filter off the top. Thanks in advance,,


Just upgraded our Game computer in a Core 1300 case, with an ASUS Genie VIII mATX MB+i5 6600K.
Air cooled by 3 Noctua 120mm, 2 intake in front and 1 exhaust back. Plus those in the CPU-cooler, GPU(GTX 970) and PSU.

A head up... The Genie VIII only takes 4-pins (PWM?) connectors but have plenty of them 4 case fans+2 CPU fans connectors.
For me it was a relief as the old MB also only took 4-pins fans, didn't need to replace perfectly good fans after just one year of use...


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ktech*
> 
> Ok, second question then.
> 
> I've got a fractal 1500.. one thing that bothers me, is the back panel (behind motherboard) doesn't have "teeth" on the top and bottom. Which means any cables behind the tray (24pin for example) causes the panel to bow out.
> 
> Does the newer R5 have this issue?


Dunno what you mean by teeth. R5 should have a solid build. Though on R4 the sturdiness of the mobo panel has something to be desired but it's a bit panel of a sheet metal, it only gets so good without excessive grooves to reinforce structural integrity. I have regular round cables and they fit on R4 ok, you just gotta clean it up and there is no need to force the side panel to close at all. R5 probably has even more space.
Core is a core, basic case, cheap built. But what more do you need from a metal box that is static just sitting somewhere.


----------



## Ktech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Dunno what you mean by teeth. R5 should have a solid build. Though on R4 the sturdiness of the mobo panel has something to be desired but it's a bit panel of a sheet metal, it only gets so good without excessive grooves to reinforce structural integrity. I have regular round cables and they fit on R4 ok, you just gotta clean it up and there is no need to force the side panel to close at all. R5 probably has even more space.
> Core is a core, basic case, cheap built. But what more do you need from a metal box that is static just sitting somewhere.


On a lot of cases, the top and bottom of the side panels have "teeth" that slot into the case. Thats what I mean by that.


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> Just upgraded our Game computer in a Core 1300 case, with an ASUS Genie VIII mATX MB+i5 6600K.
> Air cooled by 3 Noctua 120mm, 2 intake in front and 1 exhaust back. Plus those in the CPU-cooler, GPU(GTX 970) and PSU.
> 
> A head up... The Genie VIII only takes 4-pins (PWM?) connectors but have plenty of them 4 case fans+2 CPU fans connectors.
> For me it was a relief as the old MB also only took 4-pins fans, didn't need to replace perfectly good fans after just one year of use...


Thank you for the reply, I did pick up all pwm fans as I did get the mb first to check it out plus I have a SilverStone PWM fan hub should I need it..


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ktech*
> 
> On a lot of cases, the top and bottom of the side panels have "teeth" that slot into the case. Thats what I mean by that.


Ah the side panel? Yes they have teeth on FD cases that bite into the case frame and the panel slides to close. I have no bulging on R4 with round thick PSU cables, you just have to organize the cables in any case and make it all fit. If you have flat cables you shouldn't have a problem in cases with smaller space behind the mobo.


----------



## Fear Before

My Define S should be showing up today for my new build. I'm hoping Ontrac doesn't damage it, I haven't had much luck with them.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> My Define S should be showing up today for my new build. I'm hoping Ontrac doesn't damage it, I haven't had much luck with them.


They're incredibly well packaged, you should be fine.


----------



## JackCY

It's a paper box with polystyrene as usual. As long as they don't drive it over it should be fine. It's not like they are going to throw it around when it weights over 10kg.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It's a paper box with polystyrene as usual. As long as they don't drive it over it should be fine. It's not like they are going to throw it around when it weights over 10kg.


Lol they will... trust me.

The gap between the case and the box is large and the polystyrene is nice and thick. It should get there okay.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Just snagged a Define Nano S yesterday, moved everything from the CoolerMaster Elite 130 over plus threw in a Swiftech 240 rad, MCP355 DDC, Micro Res & EK Supremacy MX block all tied together with EK ZMT tubing and EVO clear coolant (Mayhems red dye):


i7 4790k @4.7 1.268
G.Skill Ripjaw X 8Gb DDR3 2133
Asus z97i-Plus
AMD R9 390x 8GB
CoolerMaster v850
Lite-On M.2 256GB
Hitachi 1TB 7200rpm
Hitachi 160GB 7200rpm


----------



## 44TZL

^^ Nice work!! Got a soft spot for that black tubing.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just snagged a Define Nano S yesterday, moved everything from the CoolerMaster Elite 130 over plus threw in a Swiftech 240 rad, MCP355 DDC, Micro Res & EK Supremacy MX block all tied together with EK ZMT tubing and EVO clear coolant (Mayhems red dye):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i7 4790k @4.7 1.268
> G.Skill Ripjaw X 8Gb DDR3 2133
> Asus z97i-Plus
> AMD R9 390x 8GB
> CoolerMaster v850
> Lite-On M.2 256GB
> Hitachi 1TB 7200rpm
> Hitachi 160GB 7200rpm


Nice build!









What temps do you get on the CPU/GPU?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Just snagged a Define Nano S yesterday, moved everything from the CoolerMaster Elite 130 over plus threw in a Swiftech 240 rad, MCP355 DDC, Micro Res & EK Supremacy MX block all tied together with EK ZMT tubing and EVO clear coolant (Mayhems red dye):
> 
> 
> i7 4790k @4.7 1.268
> G.Skill Ripjaw X 8Gb DDR3 2133
> Asus z97i-Plus
> AMD R9 390x 8GB
> CoolerMaster v850
> Lite-On M.2 256GB
> Hitachi 1TB 7200rpm
> Hitachi 160GB 7200rpm


Yeah. That does look very nice. Gives me an idea what my ek predator with a gpu block added will look like in my arc mini r2.

Very interested in your Temps as well running the single 240. Also how was cutting the EK rubber tubing? Scissors work ok? What did you use?


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They're incredibly well packaged, you should be fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It's a paper box with polystyrene as usual. As long as they don't drive it over it should be fine. It's not like they are going to throw it around when it weights over 10kg.


I'm in the transportation industry and Ontrac is the only company that I hate to deal with in my area. Very unprofessional. But with that said the case came in and it survived haha. Just waiting for the rest of the build to come in now.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Nice build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temps do you get on the CPU/GPU?


So far the temps on the GPU are below 60c at full load and the GPU hits around 70c since it's not under water yet

To cut the zmt I have a set of BluePoint/Snap-On tubing cutters that make cutting soft tubing clean and easy


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far the temps on the GPU are below 60c at full load and the GPU hits around 70c since it's not under water yet
> 
> To cut the zmt I have a set of BluePoint/Snap-On tubing cutters that make cutting soft tubing clean and easy


Thanks. I'll have to check those out. I'm on a phone and can't see your rig. What kind of gpu you using?

Looks like you have a block on that cpu.


----------



## Jyve

Disregard. I see the cpu is not the gpu.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The GPU is a R9 390x (AMD OEM)


----------



## Ithanul

Have you folded on that bad boy yet?







Hehe.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Not yet due to the heat, but might give it a shot now since the 4790k is back underwater


----------



## mypickaxe

So I bought a Node 202 with the 450W SFX Integra PSU and paired it (for now) with an inexpensive HTPC / light gaming build which consists of:

Asrock FM2A88X-ITX+
AMD A10-7860K (default clocks)
Noctua NH-L9A low profile cooler
8 GB G.Skill 2400 MHz DDR3
250 GB Sandisk SSD Plus (Windows) and a 1TB WD Blue 2.5" drive for mass storage
...and an Asus Strix R9 380 4GB.

So, before anyone asks why I have an APU paired with the discrete GPU, my plan isn't to stay on this platform forever, it was just something I threw together to serve its intended purpose for a period of time, after which I will shuttle the mobo, APU and RAM off to a family members PC. At that point, the APU will come in handy since I won't have to worry about a GPU for the non-gamers in my life.

I love the looks of the case. It fits in perfectly with my other consoles and stereo equipment. It has sufficient ventilation (not stored in a hot box.)

My question is, does anyone recommend I dump the Node 202 for a larger case? I am able to stream on it just fine, but any serious gaming whatsoever and the APU is thermal throttling. By serious gaming, I mean AAA stuff from the past two to three years. Something like Rocket League, DIRT 3, Diablo 3 or Hearthstone is child's play on this rig. It eats it up and stays nice and cool (relative to what's possible in this chassis.)

Tried Overwatch last night and the case heated up like it was burning rocket fuel. With the APU thermal throttling, the frame rates made the game unplayable at 1080p.

The stock cooler isn't so bad, but it doesn't fit when the lid is installed on the chassis, so it's really no good at all for the Node 202. I am going to try a 1" (25mm) standard 92mm fan with the cooler, since it ships with a 15mm fan and it seems to be both a bit louder than I would like and, well, the cooling performance.

The GPU stays relatively cool, at least, it isn't thermal throttling at all. I could throw a fan in that compartment, but I don't see it as being much help for the motherboard / APU compartment.

Would anyone recommend a slightly larger Mini ITX chassis for this, assuming I don't cut my "losses" and drop an Intel Core i5 and associated components in the Node 202 in a few months?


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Would anyone recommend a slightly larger Mini ITX chassis for this, assuming I don't cut my "losses" and drop an Intel Core i5 and associated components in the Node 202 in a few months?


The node 202 is a pretty sweet case, if GPU throttling is the main issue, why not fix that? Your 380 has quite a high TDP for such a compact case. I'd say a lower TDP card , perhaps with a blower fan will help you out most. If you can wait, then next gen of cards (RX480) will be very good for that purpose. Current Gen, you'll have to look for Nvidia's cards like the 970. I'll be going for the GD05 + 2nd hand 980 for my HTPC build which is still below the 380's TDP yet faster.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> The node 202 is a pretty sweet case, if GPU throttling is the main issue, why not fix that? Your 380 has quite a high TDP for such a compact case. I'd say a lower TDP card , perhaps with a blower fan will help you out most. If you can wait, then next gen of cards (RX480) will be very good for that purpose. Current Gen, you'll have to look for Nvidia's cards like the 970. I'll be going for the GD05 + 2nd hand 980 for my HTPC build which is still below the 380's TDP yet faster.


The GPU isn't throttling. The APU is. I'm not looking at a 970 because it's an AMD processor which, more likely than not, is going to bottleneck the GPU once you get up to around the 380X range or so. The TDP is fine for 1080p, not overclocking the card, and as stated, it doesn't throttle. It stays in the 60s and 70s at load.

The APU is the more recent 65W Godavari release. The cooler is meant for 65W and lower TDP APUs. There are better coolers, but hard to find one with better reviews that also fits in under 56mm in height.

RX480 is probably where I would go later on, but if the APU situation isn't rectified by a new fan, I am not sure what else to do short of getting recommendations for a replacement AMD cooler that also fits in the Node 202.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> The GPU isn't throttling. The APU is. I'm not looking at a 970 because it's an AMD processor which, more likely than not, is going to bottleneck the GPU once you get up to around the 380X range or so. The TDP is fine for 1080p, not overclocking the card, and as stated, it doesn't throttle. It stays in the 60s and 70s at load.
> 
> The APU is the more recent 65W Godavari release. The cooler is meant for 65W and lower TDP APUs. There are better coolers, but hard to find one with better reviews that also fits in under 56mm in height.
> 
> RX480 is probably where I would go later on, but if the APU situation isn't rectified by a new fan, I am not sure what else to do short of getting recommendations for a replacement AMD cooler that also fits in the Node 202.


But aren't the fans that blow onto your GPU also feeding your CPU area? Aka all that heated air then still needs to cool the CPU?


----------



## JackCY

You need a decent CPU cooler for AMD CPUs which doesn't go well with small cases. The 380 GPU will also generate a lot of heat under full load and that heat gets stuck inside the case unless you have a good in/out airflow.


----------



## 42 degree angle

Hey! I'm new to the forums and frankly haven't found anything that useful from my searches while lurking, so I'll post my questions here;

I'm looking to build my first ever PC. A gaming PC capable of running 1080p 60fps easily, more towards to the +100hz mark, and 1440p 60fps when I have the funds for a monitor. The thing is, I've always had a crush on ITX builds and I really want to do one just for the sake of it. My question lies here:

Would a Define Nano S be sufficient for my build when using an aftermarket GTX 1070 and air cooling for the whole package? I'm worried about thermal throttling for the GPU, and thermals over all, just because I come from a laptop which could literally boil water with its components. As much as I'd over a ITX build, I won't do it if the thermals would be anything more than tolerable.

My second question is: Is it a wise choice to go for a SFX PSU to give the GPU more breathing room? Is there any downsides on SFX compared to a normal ATX PSU?

And third and the last question for now: What kind of fan setup is advised to have on the Define Nano S? I reckon that one exhaust, two intakes and the CPU cooler fans would suffice, but is that so? Also what kind of fans are advised to be used and should the usage as an intake or as an exhaust matter when choosing fans?

http://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/dAEN/saved/b4bFf7 Here is a PCPP build draft I've made, please do take a look at it and point out anything that would seem like a bad bet. Thanks before hand!


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *42 degree angle*
> 
> Hey! I'm new to the forums and frankly haven't found anything that useful from my searches while lurking, so I'll post my questions here;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Questions!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to build my first ever PC. A gaming PC capable of running 1080p 60fps easily, more towards to the +100hz mark, and 1440p 60fps when I have the funds for a monitor. The thing is, I've always had a crush on ITX builds and I really want to do one just for the sake of it. My question lies here:
> 
> Would a Define Nano S be sufficient for my build when using an aftermarket GTX 1070 and air cooling for the whole package? I'm worried about thermal throttling for the GPU, and thermals over all, just because I come from a laptop which could literally boil water with its components. As much as I'd over a ITX build, I won't do it if the thermals would be anything more than tolerable.
> 
> My second question is: Is it a wise choice to go for a SFX PSU to give the GPU more breathing room? Is there any downsides on SFX compared to a normal ATX PSU?
> 
> And third and the last question for now: What kind of fan setup is advised to have on the Define Nano S? I reckon that one exhaust, two intakes and the CPU cooler fans would suffice, but is that so? Also what kind of fans are advised to be used and should the usage as an intake or as an exhaust matter when choosing fans?
> 
> http://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/dAEN/saved/b4bFf7 Here is a PCPP build draft I've made, please do take a look at it and point out anything that would seem like a bad bet. Thanks before hand!


A 1070 would easily get you that performance.. it's somewhat overkill already. I ran a comparable but hotter running 980Ti in the Nano. The only issue is the clearance from videocard to PSU.. so thick cards can hit the PSU and airflow at the back is very limited. Watercooling will solve that best IMO, but sure SFX would be a way to go. SFX will be louder under load and will leave a gap at the back of the case. If you're not all that concerned about the best OC, you could also go normal PSU and just get a blower type card.

Generally you won't have any thermal issues in this case.. it's not that small and a 1070 doesn't dissipate much heat. You may get away with running just front (2x140mm) to back airflow and keep the moduvent on for bit more silence. Especially when you go blower style GPU.

This a pic from my last setup. Could run the fans at 800-1000 rpm even at full load (4690K @ 4.5-4.8Ghz + 980Ti @ 1526Mhz.. total system drew about 375W when gaming)


----------



## JackCY

SFX is smaller and you might need to drill a couple holes to screw it into the case or get an adaptor for SFX to ATX PSU.
I like the Corsair SF450/SF600. Other options from ATX are RM550x and EVGA 550 G2. They all have hybrid fan mode.

Parts are always a preference and the partpicker doesn't have all parts I might use.
There is not much to choose the board. Cooler I picked 2 of my favorite that have far better price performance than the old huge Noctua.

I don't think you will notice the 3000 RAM vs 2400 RAM but the difference is like 10 EUR?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

*CPU:* Intel Core i5-*6600K* 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (€238.63 @ Amazon Deutschland)
*CPU Cooler:* *Thermalright HR-02* Rev.A(BW) 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler (€46.23 @ Amazon Deutschland)
OR
*CPU Cooler:* *CRYORIG H7* 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler
I would go with H7 Universal since it's smaller and shouldn't have an issue in this tiny ITX case unlike the bigger coolers that have around 160mm height and may not always fit as who knows how FD measures the true clearance.
*Motherboard:* Asus Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (€147.11 @ Amazon Deutschland)
There are not many options for ITX on PCPP.
*Memory:* Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (€76.84 @ Mindfactory)
10EUR cheaper RAM will give you the same performance user experience wise
*Storage:* Sandisk Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€67.99 @ Amazon Deutschland)
I don't like TLC drives but MLCs are a bit more expensive.
*Storage:* *Seagate Barracuda 3TB* 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€98.84 @ Mindfactory)
Pointless to get an expensive 1TB when you can get 3TB for not even double the price.
*Video Card:* MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (€499.00)
There might be cheaper options from other brands.
*Case:* Fractal Design Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case (€80.00)
Case is always a personal preference, I don't know if there are better ITX cases for the money.
*Power Supply:* Corsair *RMx 550W* 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Definitely either ATX *Corsair RM550x* or *EVGA 550 G2*. I don't think the updated Leadex based GL and GX are available yet.
If you want SFX take *Corsair SF450 or SF600*, they are better than the Silverstone 500 and have better price/performance.
*Case Fan:* Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan (€19.79 @ Aquatuning)
*Case Fan:* Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan (€21.79 @ Aquatuning)
*Case Fan:* Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140mm Fan (€21.79 @ Aquatuning)
I think Noctua fans are overpriced, if you search shops you can find decent fans and fill the whole case with them for the price of 1 Noctua fan. I got my 140mm 1000rpm fans for like 4EUR each and they are quieter than stock FD fans. 22EUR for 1 Noctua is just a rip off. Again fans are personal preference.
*Total:* €1318.01
_Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available_
_Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-17 16:16 CEST+0200_

Personally I would fill front with 2x140mm, bottom 120mm, rear 120mm, or what ever the largest fans fit.
With PSU a SF450 should be tiny compared to ATX, it is still hybrid fan, and you could just mount it on the base of the case instead of floating in the air with an adaptor bracket. Drilling 3 3mm holes should be a piece of cake if you cannot reuse some of the already present PSU mount holes.


----------



## Themisseble

Hello,

I have Arch midi R2 and I have problems with USB3.0 and sound (AUX) connector = front interface.

So Audio in/out have problems with detection and one USB3.0 doesnt work.

Looks like case have defective jacks.

Any help how to fix this?


----------



## JackCY

Ask FD for replacement part if it's broken. That seems to be what people here did when having issues with the front I/O. And FD will rather send you a replacement part than having to send a whole case back and forth under warranty.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> But aren't the fans that blow onto your GPU also feeding your CPU area? Aka all that heated air then still needs to cool the CPU?


In theory yes, but it's compartmentalized, and there is decent ventilation in the holes drilled next to the GPU. Also, the CPU area has ventilation on the right (or top if vertically mounted) and directly over the CPU for intake.

I haven't ruled anything out, and not being argumentative, just pointing out that with the stock cooler on it, the throttling wasn't evident, but the lid wouldn't fit, so that it's hard to say scientifically if it is "trapped hot air" or just a better cooler overall (with a better fan.)

So, having said that, I put in a 92x25mm fan.It's the "Arctic F9" for anyone wondering. I will test that and see if I get any better results.

Thanks for input.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You need a decent CPU cooler for AMD CPUs which doesn't go well with small cases. The 380 GPU will also generate a lot of heat under full load and that heat gets stuck inside the case unless you have a good in/out airflow.


True, but remember this is a 65W part, not the 95W that is typical with AMD today. So, in theory, there should be less heat to dissipate.

The room is relatively cool (central air at 71 Fahrenheit.) I don't have the case cooped up in a closed off area.

Should be able to say definitively whether or not I can make this work later on today after some more testing.


----------



## JackCY

Well the TDPs advertised by Intel and AMD are both IMHO just guidelines and they are not enforced, so under full load of some crazy app/test/bench the TDP goes much higher. On Intel the default values are set to like 1000W for the power limits, dunno if that is only for K series on Z chips but I would guess it's on all.
65W it may be but if you get total 200W+ of heat inside the case it takes some cooling to dissipate and vent all that.

Maybe it's some setting for the APU, in which case the AMD CPU threads are a better help.


----------



## Themisseble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> In theory yes, but it's compartmentalized, and there is decent ventilation in the holes drilled next to the GPU. Also, the CPU area has ventilation on the right (or top if vertically mounted) and directly over the CPU for intake.
> 
> I haven't ruled anything out, and not being argumentative, just pointing out that with the stock cooler on it, the throttling wasn't evident, but the lid wouldn't fit, so that it's hard to say scientifically if it is "trapped hot air" or just a better cooler overall (with a better fan.)
> 
> So, having said that, I put in a 92x25mm fan.It's the "Arctic F9" for anyone wondering. I will test that and see if I get any better results.
> 
> Thanks for input.
> True, but remember this is a 65W part, not the 95W that is typical with AMD today. So, in theory, there should be less heat to dissipate.
> 
> The room is relatively cool (central air at 71 Fahrenheit.) I don't have the case cooped up in a closed off area.
> 
> Should be able to say definitively whether or not I can make this work later on today after some more testing.


Well in my case same CPU FX 6400 4.5GHz was around 45-50C while i7 3770 iis getting around 70C with same cooler....

I have also noticed that with INTEL CPU I do get more problems...


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Themisseble*
> 
> Well in my case same CPU FX 6400 4.5GHz was around 45-50C while i7 3770 iis getting around 70C with same cooler....
> 
> I have also noticed that with INTEL CPU I do get more problems...


How are you reading the temps? Thermal Margin is what I'm going off of, considering most of the well known utilities get AMD backwards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Well the TDPs advertised by Intel and AMD are both IMHO just guidelines and they are not enforced, so under full load of some crazy app/test/bench the TDP goes much higher. On Intel the default values are set to like 1000W for the power limits, dunno if that is only for K series on Z chips but I would guess it's on all.
> 65W it may be but if you get total 200W+ of heat inside the case it takes some cooling to dissipate and vent all that.
> 
> Maybe it's some setting for the APU, in which case the AMD CPU threads are a better help.


So the other day, I reapplied thermal grease. EDIT: It didn't help.

Today I put the replacement fan on the cooler. So far, so good. I played Overwatch at 900p / Ultra for about 30 minutes with Overdrive running, logging the thermal margins for all four cores. Never got closer than 37 degrees to max temp. Average was high 40s (again, distance to max temp.) The GPU will stay around 70 with default settings. Performance stayed at 59.9 fps (I'm playing on a 1080p television in the den.)

If I use something like Speedfan and set a desired temp of 50 on GPU, it will achieve that with a higher fan RPM. I am avoiding "desired temp" on the APU considering it might get it wrong, based on what I've seen with third party utilities reading the CPU package temp, or getting the temp backwards (needs to be distance from max, or thermal margin, which is sometimes interpreted as the actual temperature by apps such as HWMonitor.)


----------



## 44TZL

@mypickaxe: Sorry about my advice earlier - it seems the Node 202 itself is the culprit. Am in the process myself to build an HTPC and was just reading reviews that included thermal testing of potential cases. Have a read of Anandtech's review of the Node 202. Much a similar story with the 605. I'd say it would be worth having a look at Silverstone htpc cases (GD, ML and even Raven series) instead - they come out much better in thermal testing.


----------



## Dimensive

I love the design of the Node 202, but the CPU cooler size limitation was a major turn off for me. I went with the SilverStone ML07B and I'm happy with its quality, and it was cheaper.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> @mypickaxe: Sorry about my advice earlier - it seems the Node 202 itself is the culprit. Am in the process myself to build an HTPC and was just reading reviews that included thermal testing of potential cases. Have a read of Anandtech's review of the Node 202. Much a similar story with the 605. I'd say it would be worth having a look at Silverstone htpc cases (GD, ML and even Raven series) instead - they come out much better in thermal testing.


Not a problem, really. For now I will live with what I have, the fan has improved it enough that I'm going to live with it for the time being.


----------



## Fear Before

So I put my mobo in my new Define S and after I got it all screwed in I noticed the tabs on the IO shield were blocking some ports. So I took the screws out and go to lift the motherboard out but the black knob in the middle of the case seems to be stuck inside one of the holes on the mobo and is stuck. Any advice?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> So I put my mobo in my new Define S and after I got it all screwed in I noticed the tabs on the IO shield were blocking some ports. So I took the screws out and go to lift the motherboard out but the black knob in the middle of the case seems to be stuck inside one of the holes on the mobo and is stuck. Any advice?


Pic?


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Pic?


----------



## brazilianloser

Not sure if motherboard headers are going bad of if the USB case ports are... Either way most likely the case ports. Case is barely a year old. Define S


----------



## Fear Before

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*


Update, I managed to get the mobo free and out of the case, but is this black plug thing on the back of the case necessary? My last Fractal case didn't have it.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Not a problem, really. For now I will live with what I have, the fan has improved it enough that I'm going to live with it for the time being.


Good stuff. I guess as long as it's keeping your 380 fed and not throttling, you're all good.

I just put my Silverstone GD05 together yesterday. Used the noctua NH-L9x65 cooler .. I can run the 88W TDP 4690K @ 4.2Ghz Core+Uncore and keep it under 65C at 100 %load. With +100mV offset, it goes up to 4.5Ghz and 75C. But I'll stick to the 4.2Ghz.

Will see how things go once the 185W 980 card goes later this week.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really digging this case, it's starting to make me ponder selling off the JAC x99 build. Or at least downsizing to a smaller case for it as well, just if I can get my hands on a Evga x99 Micro II


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*
> 
> Update, I managed to get the mobo free and out of the case, but is this black plug thing on the back of the case necessary? My last Fractal case didn't have it.


Normal. It's used instead of a center screw so the board is supposedly easier to put and hold in place.

You can replace it with a stand off if you want and have one.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fear Before*


Maybe gently rotate the motherboard left and right while gently pulling up?

Maybe use a precision screwdriver and push on one of the sides of the nub that's stuck while pulling up?

Get a 2nd person to turn the case over motherboard facing down while you hold the board?


----------



## mtrapuzz

Figured I would share these for those that may want to make their own power supply box for their Define R5 or S (the S has the curve as pictured). An example image is shown below, and the part files can be found in the zip folder. I created them in SolidWorks. If you want to use them, you will most likely need this program or a similar one. I made each of these boxes with a laser cutter and acrylic, and then painted them. It is basically a 2D object that gets made into a 3D object with the assistance of some ribs and glue. The fitment is pretty good, but one thing to note is the rib in the middle of the box was placed after the power supply and may have to be moved depending on what size power supply you have. Let me know if you have any questions.



FractalDesign.zip 1656k .zip file


----------



## delslow

Ooooh, this is quality stuff. I always wondered if someone would make some nice CAD drawings for a homemade PSU shroud. Could this be outputted in PDF form to several pages so that one can cut out the design from cardboard/sheetmetal?

Could you maybe just provide nice a dimentional drawing for us to use?

Thanks!


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> Ooooh, this is quality stuff. I always wondered if someone would make some nice CAD drawings for a homemade PSU shroud. Could this be outputted in PDF form to several pages so that one can cut out the design from cardboard/sheetmetal?
> 
> Could you maybe just provide nice a dimentional drawing for us to use?
> 
> Thanks!


Here you go. Take 200 microns off of each dimension because the drawing was offset to account for the laser cutters half beam size. So, 185.2 would be 185. The dimensions are in millimeters. It is essentially 185 mm wide at the back and 165 mm at the front with a height of 92.5 mm. One of the parts is bigger than a piece of paper but I could make a scaled pdf if you can print on larger paper.

Box_100micron_Offset_Define_S.PDF 33k .PDF file


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Here you go. Take 200 microns off of each dimension because the drawing was offset to account for the laser cutters half beam size. So, 185.2 would be 185. The dimensions are in millimeters.
> 
> Box_100micron_Offset_Define_S.PDF 33k .PDF file


Many thanks.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Has anyone tried fitting EK CE 420 + EK CE 280 in a define r5 or define S ? I`d like to upgrade my rad game and move up to 140mm fans since I already have 5x phanteks F140mp fans.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Has anyone tried fitting EK CE 420 + EK CE 280 in a define r5 or define S ? I`d like to upgrade my rad game and move up to 140mm fans since I already have 5x phanteks F140mp fans.


Did the same thing and it's just the best for quiet computing the move to 140mm. I've got a Hardware labs GTS Xflow 420 + 280 in a Define S. They're longer than the CEs but thinner.

Your issue will be the 45mm thickness of the top rad. You'll have to to go for low profile RAM (under 35mm at least at the ends) and VRM cooling under 35mm else you won't get the fans in.

The position of the slots could also influence this. In X99 at least, Gigabyte and ASRock place their RAM slots up higher than MSI and ASUS. I've got an MSI X99A SLI + Kingston Hyper X and the CE420 would fit. The 280 won't be an issue at all. So it's really up to getting the right components together.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I think im good got some low profile kingstons and an asus z170a wich has mem slots lower, but if someones done the exact same thing would be nice to confirm.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I think im good got some low profile kingstons and an asus z170a wich has mem slots lower, but if someones done the exact same thing would be nice to confirm.


True. But sometimes you just need to measure it out and theoritically figure out.

Here's the situation with a 30mm rad with 25mm EK Fans. The clearance to the motherboard is 35mm.


----------



## JackCY

Yeah it would be nice if mobo, case, ram, cooling companies made some kind of standard and agree about the free space around CPU area, so that coolers can fit without issues on any regular combination.
Right now you have to measure everything before you buy it even buy it and test it and return it if it doesn't fit.

I think there is some standard for the CPU cooler like air coolers but not RAM vs water cooling in a case.

Some mobos, like mine have EPS up top on the board so water cooling might cover that EPS and make it a real PITA.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> True. But sometimes you just need to measure it out and theoritically figure out.
> 
> Here's the situation with a 30mm rad with 25mm EK Fans. The clearance to the motherboard is 35mm.


This makes me wonder if I can fit Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 420, now that would be sweet








I have a feeling I have to rip of the motherboards IO plastic cover for that tho.
And further investigating the benefits of thicker rads I found that going thicker and more expensive doesn`t actually
give me anything at my desired push/1300rpm area.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> This makes me wonder if I can fit Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 420, now that would be sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling I have to rip of the motherboards IO plastic cover for that tho.
> And further investigating the benefits of thicker rads I found that going thicker and more expensive doesn`t actually
> give me anything at my desired push/1300rpm area.


Looking at that, yes it will be close with IO covers.. if they are a couple of mm over the actual I/O shield it would be fine.

Regarding the performance...hat's one of the reason I went with the GTS Xflow.. there's very little to gain with thickness of a rad. If so a GTS ot GTS Xflow in push/pull is better than anything in push for the same thickness. Anyway I research with the intention of running between 500 - 800 rpm.

That testing by xtreme rigs is good, but I question if their tested heatsource of 300W is enough to tell the real capacity of a rad. The efficiency of longer rads seems to drop off quite a bit I think as a result of lower efficiency at lower temperatures (over ambient).

Here's from their thickness vs cooling graph which has a much larger sample size in 360 rads


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> This makes me wonder if I can fit Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 420, now that would be sweet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling I have to rip of the motherboards IO plastic cover for that tho.
> And further investigating the benefits of thicker rads I found that going thicker and more expensive doesn`t actually
> give me anything at my desired push/1300rpm area.


Seriously. Can anyone tell me how to find out my flow rate? All these places saying 1GPM is ideal, yet I have no idea how they reach this number. It's been suggested to fill/drain my loop at the same time and see how long it takes for me to fill a gallon tank (or any increment of and multiply), but that seems iffy at best. Since it's not taking into account other parts of the loop.

/shrug

Are there any legit flow meters that actually give you GPM instead of just spinning randomly?


----------



## JackCY

Isn't GPM something like volume/time? That's quite simple to measure and yes those spinning thingies can give you that measurement too.


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Isn't GPM something like volume/time? That's quite simple to measure and yes those spinning thingies can give you that measurement too.


How do those spinny things tell you anything?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Isn't GPM something like volume/time? That's quite simple to measure and yes those spinning thingies can give you that measurement too.


GPM = Gallons Per Minute. So depending on the amount of water flowing during one minute, you can figure out how many gallons it is pushing during that minute.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> How do those spinny things tell you anything?


They can do the same count for you - in the same way you mobo or fan controller counts the fan revolutions. Bitspower has one and aquacomputer has several models. I'm pretty sure the aquacomputer + aquaero controller will give you very accurate flowrate readings.

In any case.. in experimenting I've seen very little influence on cooling performance from varying flowrates. I think it comes more into play with highly restrictive loops, such as having multiple GPU blocks in series.

I won't be installing one.. I just got temperature sensor at the start and end of my loop to check the water temperature compared to the ambient temperatue. That deltaT controls the fans which makes the biggest difference in cooling performance by a mile or so.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Also I really like the idea of the Xflow model of the GTS lineup, would like to see that option available on other models aswell, but I havent really seen any


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Also I really like the idea of the Xflow model of the GTS lineup, would like to see that option available on other models aswell, but I havent really seen any


I've only seen alphacool nexxxos with the same xflow setup. No other models in the HWLabs line up seem to have it.

I found it nice how it helped to minimise the amount of tubing that runs in my setup... and that it has less flow-restriction compared to the GTS.
Here's my routing which runs anti-clockwise (hidden 280 at the bottom)


----------



## outofmyheadyo

What's the deal with xflow performing worse vs GTS tho?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> How do those spinny things tell you anything?


They rotate at some speed = time and they have a fixed volume = volume, that gives you volume/time. It's a flow meter. I'm no WC expert but I can find some spinning meters that are digital or have an analog see through spinning thingy and a digital signal out. They can connect to your fan controller to read the flow rate.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> What's the deal with xflow performing worse vs GTS tho?


Its a bit odd the numbers from xtreme rigs.. look at the difference between GTS and XFlow in the results from 360 and 280 rad.. Perhaps that's the 120/140 difference .. don't know.
Here as 280 rad, the Xflow performs better...

And at 360 the GTS completely stands out at low fan speeds..(other rads are thin ones only in this graph)


Regardless they'll both be amongst the best performing rads at lower fans speeds - and fit the Define (since we're in that thread







)


----------



## delslow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> They rotate at some speed = time and they have a fixed volume = volume, that gives you volume/time. It's a flow meter. I'm no WC expert but I can find some spinning meters that are digital or have an analog see through spinning thingy and a digital signal out. They can connect to your fan controller to read the flow rate.


That doesn't give you a true flow rate. It gives you how many times the rotor spins per minute. Depending on the diameter of the tubing, this flowrate can be anything! 3,000 RPM with 10mm tubing vs. 3,000 RPM with 15mm tubing is going to give you very different numbers. I've seen some models that do this conversion for you, but a spinny wheel that reads off fan RPM isn't going to give you true GPM. You can get relative readings tho.


----------



## JackCY

A meter with 10mm tubing and the same meter with 100000mm tubing will read the same flow rate, why? Because the size of the meter is constant, the same meter was used. Yeah sure they aren't scientifically accurate or good enough to bill someone on the water used but the principle is the same.


----------



## Krzych04650

Question about Define R5 fan controller: Is it capable of controlling more than 3 fans if I use adapters like this:



I want to control at least 4 fans, or better 5. I ordered separate fan controller but since my Sigma Pro fans are basically inaudible even in total silence during night, even if I am crazy about sounds and have crazy sensitive hearing, I cannot really justify spending equivalent to 5 fans on separate fan controller, default one would be enough, but for this plan to work R5 fan controller needs to be capable of controlling and powering more than 3 fans. I want the to work only on 5V, if it is important.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> Question about Define R5 fan controller: Is it capable of controlling more than 3 fans if I use adapters like this:
> I want to control at least 4 fans, or better 5. I ordered separate fan controller but since my Sigma Pro fans are basically inaudible even in total silence during night, and I crazy about sounds and have crazy sensitive hearing, I cannot really justify spending equivalent to 5 fans on separate fan controller, default one would be enough, but for this plan to work R5 fan controller needs to be capable of controlling and powering more than 3 fans.


The SATA power connector (that is used to power the fan controller on the R5) can provide up to 1.5 A. As long as you don't exceed this you'll be fine. Most 120 mm case fans aren't going to pull more than .25 A so you should be okay using up to six fans. Check the specs on the fans you are using though.


----------



## Krzych04650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> The SATA power connector (that is used to power the fan controller on the R5) can provide up to 1.5 A. As long as you don't exceed this you'll be fine. Most 120 mm case fans aren't going to pull more than .25 A so you should be okay using up to six fans. Check the specs on the fans you are using though.


So basically I can split 3-pin connectors as much as I want until I reach SATA power limit? Fans specifications says 0.12 A, so it looks like I can connect 12 fans







Well, thats great, I am canceling my order for separate fan controller then. Thanks for quick answer.

P.S I don't have to use 3pin to 2x3pin for every of 3 connectors? I can use for example 3pin to 4x3pin just for one connector and it will work anyway? Availability of 3pin to 2x3pin adapters is pretty horrible, 10 days of waiting for them.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> So basically I can split 3-pin connectors as much as I want until I reach SATA power limit? Fans specifications says 0.12 A, so it looks like I can connect 12 fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, thats great, I am canceling my order for separate fan controller then. Thanks for quick answer.
> 
> P.S I don't have to use 3pin to 2x3pin for every of 3 connectors? I can use for example 3pin to 4x3pin just for one connector and it will work anyway? Availability of 3pin to 2x3pin adapters is pretty horrible, 10 days of waiting for them.


You should be able to use three or four pin splitters just fine. The third and fourth pins won't be used for this fan controller anyway. It just changes the voltage, there's no provision for rpm reading or PWM. Also, I wouldn't use more than six fans. Daisy chaining splitters isn't the best of ideas.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> The SATA power connector (that is used to power the fan controller on the R5) can provide up to 1.5 A. As long as you don't exceed this you'll be fine. Most 120 mm case fans aren't going to pull more than .25 A so you should be okay using up to six fans. Check the specs on the fans you are using though.


Agree with this above.

Does your motherboard has extra fan headers?

In my R5, the two front intakes run at 5V off using the R5 case harness powered by a SATA power connector.

Rear exhaust and bottom fan use MoBo fan headers controlled by speedfan

Rear exhaust always runs, but slowly and ramps up with CPU temp. Fan curve matches the CPU cooler fan curve.

Bottom intake turns off when CPU cores are less than 40C or GPU less than 45C. ( which is most of the time unless gaming or encoding, or running multiple VMs). The speed of the bottom intake is controlled by a combination of GPU or CPU temps, but the GPU temps are what cause it to spin up.

Side fan is removed for now. Since it is summer that may change, but it will be powered by the temp of the graphics card.

I can barely hear the system at idle, and the loudest thing are the two HDDs.


----------



## Krzych04650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Agree with this above.
> 
> Does your motherboard has extra fan headers?
> 
> In my R5, the two front intakes run at 5V off using the R5 case harness powered by a SATA power connector.
> 
> Rear exhaust and bottom fan use MoBo fan headers controlled by speedfan
> 
> Rear exhaust always runs, but slowly and ramps up with CPU temp. Fan curve matches the CPU cooler fan curve.
> 
> Bottom intake turns off when CPU cores are less than 40C or GPU less than 45C. ( which is most of the time unless gaming or encoding, or running multiple VMs). The speed of the bottom intake is controlled by a combination of GPU or CPU temps, but the GPU temps are what cause it to spin up.
> 
> Side fan is removed for now. Since it is summer that may change, but it will be powered by the temp of the graphics card.
> 
> I can barely hear the system at idle, and the loudest thing are the two HDDs.


I have 4 or even 5 motherborad fan headers, but motherboard is the weakest point of my system, it is Asus Z97-P. Software is horribly bad plus SpeedFan cannot even read temperatures properly from it. I tried to set it up with guide but nothing seems to work on my mobo from this accursed manufacturer. I bought this mobo when I wasn't too much into tech, and this is how it ends - very short in features, overpriced, with horrible AI Suite software and inability to set up any third party software. But I wanted gold color on my motherboard... Ehh, I was so stupid back then









I am pretty much satisfied with noise levels at the moment. Even with side moduvent removed it is okay, audible only in total silence, and I am always listening to music, review, interview or playing games when I am using PC, so I won't hear it anyway. I also have my windows open almost all the time so ambient noise in increasing quite significantly. I don't plan to increase fan speeds to 7 or let alone 12V. The whole point of my system is total silence and don't burn anything







It was quite hard to achieve with 980 Ti that is super hot after OC, but now I will temporarily get RX480 if it turns out to be good so I will keep those very low noise levels even under load. And when Vega comes I don't know, I hope for some beefy coolers like those third party ones from Arctic.

I will order additional fan for the side panel and 140mm magnetic dust filter and I will test how it works for me, so far removing side panel moduvent didn't made much of a difference.

One thing I would like to change is to make fan controller Off-5V-7V instead of 5V-7V-12V. Is it possible? I will make separate thread with this question.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> Question about Define R5 fan controller: Is it capable of controlling more than 3 fans if I use adapters like this:
> 
> 
> 
> I want to control at least 4 fans, or better 5. I ordered separate fan controller but since my Sigma Pro fans are basically inaudible even in total silence during night, even if I am crazy about sounds and have crazy sensitive hearing, I cannot really justify spending equivalent to 5 fans on separate fan controller, default one would be enough, but for this plan to work R5 fan controller needs to be capable of controlling and powering more than 3 fans. I want the to work only on 5V, if it is important.


I bet the R5 "controller" is the same as R4 and is nothing more than gorram switch that connects all the fans you connect to it to a PSU on either 0-12V, 0-5V or 5-12V, giving you 12,5,7V options of speed for the fans. As long at the switch or it's PCB doesn't burn you're fine. Sure don't connect 20 delta fans to it that draw 20A right, but say up to 2A you should be fine for what the switch can handle. I use crappy Chinese switches in other things even at 5A no problem.

Oh yeah, R5 still has the 3 speed R4 controller, I'm sure.


----------



## Krzych04650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I bet the R5 "controller" is the same as R4 and is nothing more than gorram switch that connects all the fans you connect to it to a PSU on either 0-12V, 0-5V or 5-12V, giving you 12,5,7V options of speed for the fans. As long at the switch or it's PCB doesn't burn you're fine. Sure don't connect 20 delta fans to it that draw 20A right, but say up to 2A you should be fine for what the switch can handle. I use crappy Chinese switches in other things even at 5A no problem.


Thanks for answer. Can I somehow make this controller work on Off-5V-7V instead of 5V-7V-12V?


----------



## JackCY

Mmm, technically might be possible, but you would need to make your own PCB but maybe not even that, just rewire how the input cable the SATA power on R5 and molex power on R4 connects to the PCB.




This is my controller on R4. It may be possible depending on how the switch connects the traces, best would really be a custom PCB.

Personally I find this switch useless as any motherboard has superior fan controlling capability with fan speed, PWM, etc. and controls the fans based on temperatures. They could just remove this useless switch IMHO and save me the $5 in price. It's a gimmick no one should be using really.

On the other hand it could be used to dim LED lights or other gimmicks like that. But all in all these simple devices also cost a couple $ on ebay if you need them.


----------



## jcberg

Question about the Define S.

The front panel on my case seems to resonate, like it's amplifying the vibrations from my platter HDD. It quiets down considerably if I touch the front panel with my hand.
Is this normal?

I am considering applying some sound deadening mats (butyl / bitumen) to the panel to lower it's resonant frequency, but if this isn't normal and my case is faulty I'll just send it back before performing mods like this.

I found this post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slink3Slyde*
> 
> I'm really at a loss as to explain the vibration problems you are describing. I do get a sort of resonance at a certain low rpm from my front fans but I simply turn my fan controller a fraction and it goes past it. Also if I take off the dust filter panel it stops which is contrary to your experience.


Which is for the R4 which I believe does have some sound deadening applied to the front panel already.
Also, in the silentpcreview article the reviewer mentions the HDD mounts are rather ineffective at reducing vibrations.

The vibrations from my HDD are very noticable at idle. I made the mistake of putting my windows "Users" folder on this particular drive to save SSD space so it's pretty much always running as well.
I have googled this issue a bit and some users (forum posts) claim you should't tighten the screws that attach the HDD too much as it reduces the vibration damping of the rubber mounts, which does make some sense so I'm gonna try that and see if it helps (I tightened them hard which may be an issue).

So I'm guessing what I'm experiencing is normal and not a fault with the case, but I would like some input on this.


----------



## JackCY

All cases have some parts that fit in ways that can resonate at certain frequencies. My 5.25" bay would "sing" when I would tap on it because it wasn't dampened, hell even after putting some STP silver on it it still did because of it's connection to the case. Stuffed it with open cell foam and it's quiet.

R5/4 has the front panel filled with some material and open cell foam. Sure adding sound dampening that increases it's weight will shift the frequencies and reduce resonance.

I don't think resonance counts as defective, it would have to be unattached or something.

Yes HDD mounts even with the rubber pads are useless IMHO, you would need sorbothane mounts which is a material quite expensive and is used for audio equipment feet, helicopter camera mounts, as a mod in airsoft guns, mods for shoes, ... you can find videos of people hitting their hand with a hammer where there is sorbothane over their hand, it distributes and dampens very well. I have not seen sorbothane used in PC at all.

It's not a fault of your particular case certainly not one for a valid RMA.

You can search my posts here with STP silver added to R4 and HDD mounted with a rubber cord in several positions in R4. Not that my HDD needs it but considering I don't like any cages in a case because all they do is vibrate and block airflow I mounted my HDD floating with rubber cord. It's sort of like paracord with the inside being rubber strands and it stretches just like a rubber band does.

My avatar shows the HDD floating in air in R4.

You could make similar HDD mount in Define S, or strap it with rubber band on a open cell foam padding. You have to be creative.


----------



## jcberg

Thanks for your post JackCY! I still think it's strange that a "silent" case from a popular manufacturer would do this by design, but the quality of the front panel plastic combined with the HDD mounted to the MB backplate makes it very likely.

Anyway my plan is to apply some deadening to the front panel and move my "Users" partition to an SSD. The remaining HDD space is just used for rarely-accessed storage, but if the drive noise still bothers me I'll figure out a better way to mount the drive.


----------



## JackCY

Unfortunately what silent means for PC parts makers has so far only gotten up to sticking a bitumen on the side panel and covering the fan slots when empty, at best covering the front fan intake with a door which helps a lot.

For me... I've added STP silver on big parts of the case that had nothing on it, top, bottom, 5.25 bay since I didn't want to remove it. Cut out all the fan grills to remove air obstructions and removed the front fan "trap door" and cut out any unnecessary obstructions again. In the end remade the fan filters with proper mesh. Of course whole case is raised by an inch thick rubber so the bottom intake actually works and isn't starved.

You could really just get the Core case and mod it but I'm not sure if they have open enough front intake, it seems to be much more closed than on Define.

They have made some nice changes on the R5 but didn't bring them all to Define S...
S is sort of a hybrid of R4 and R5.

Right now the R5 is the most modern designed, has the bottom fan filter removable from front so you don't need to mod it like on R4,S, probably every other FD case. Still you gotta cut the the stupid stamped fan grills. And you can't fit large EATX in R5 and S anymore... not without cutting space for them.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> Thanks for answer. Can I somehow make this controller work on Off-5V-7V instead of 5V-7V-12V?


I'd consider getting a fan controller. I ran for quite some time with the Grid V2 fan controller and having 6 channels & 30W of full voltage curve control extra, makes it a lot easier to get a quieter setup - for not much money. The nice thing with that is that you can also run the case fans of the GPU temps.. which is what you want as long as you're running aircooled videocards.

As soon as you run a custom loop.. there's the Aquaero pump/fan/led controllers (it has it's own forum thread on OCN with great people on it).. it blows anything out the water


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> As soon as you run a custom loop.. there's the Aquaero pump/fan/led controllers (it has it's own forum thread on OCN with great people on it).. it blows anything out the water


Including your wallet. The Aquaero is a nice bit of kit but is seriously overpriced. I manage the same thing with a $50 Corsair Link Commander. Just don't use Corsair's software, it sucks. Using SIV I am able to set up my own fan/pump curves based on any temp sensor in the system. It has six fan channels and four temp sensor channels as well as a single LED channel. The Lighting could use some work, I'll give you that. But it can't be beat for the price.


----------



## Krzych04650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> I'd consider getting a fan controller. I ran for quite some time with the Grid V2 fan controller and having 6 channels & 30W of full voltage curve control extra, makes it a lot easier to get a quieter setup - for not much money. The nice thing with that is that you can also run the case fans of the GPU temps.. which is what you want as long as you're running aircooled videocards.
> 
> As soon as you run a custom loop.. there's the Aquaero pump/fan/led controllers (it has it's own forum thread on OCN with great people on it).. it blows anything out the water


I ordered separate fan controller before, but since I have fans that are barely audible at night in total silence when they are at 5V, and since Define R5 fan controller is able to control more than 3 fans, I didn't find any reason to spend equivalent of 5 fans or 128 GB SSD on separate fan controller. I already spent enough for this case and replacing fans in it, which is overall not a ultra huge improvement over my previous case, and I could easily get 512GB SSD for all of this money.

I want only 5V and Off, I don't plan to increase fan speeds. I have very sensitive hearing and all fans I tested, even those 3 times more expensive than my current ones, are starting to rattle quite a lot beyond 5V, so all of this controlling by temperature is useless to me.

One disadvantage of my current system with this Define R5 controller is that it cannot turn fans off, this is why I ask about it. This is not a big problem since it is hard to hear them, but I am used to have fans off and total silence outside of games.

At the end I could just buy SATA cable extension for fan controller to bring it outside of a case, connect second SATA cable to my PSU and also bring this cable outside of my case and connect and disconnect fan controller manually, not a problem for me at all.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> And you can't fit large EATX in R5 and S anymore... not without cutting space for them.


Yeah, I don't get that. It's really just a 'few' millimeters (_a bit more than a few really--see below_) added to the motherboard tray to be able to support some of the (so called) E-ATX motherboards--widths up to 272mm (which are not true E-ATX with a width of 330mm).

For those interested...

ATX is short for: *A*dvanced *T*echnology e*X*tended

I could not find a reliable source that gives the words for the acronym E-ATX, but it's probably safe to assume it stands for: *E*xtended-*A*dvanced *T*echnology e*X*tended

According to a Wiki article (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX), the following variations of the E-ATX standard are used by some motherboard manufacturers.

Note that I have come up with the nomenclature of '-W#' added to the to the ATX acronym to indicated the 4 derivations of the extended ATX width in use at this time by motherboard manufacturers (according to the above mentioned article).


ATX: 12 × 9.6 in (305 × 244 mm)
ATX-W1: 12 × 10.1 in (305 × 257 mm)
ATX-W2: 12 × 10.4 in (305 × 264 mm)
ATX-W3: 12 × 10.5 in (305 × 267 mm)
ATX-W4: 12 × 10.7 in (305 × 272 mm)
E-ATX: 12 × 13 in (305 × 330 mm)
Looking at the above list, we can see that only the width of the motherboard changes. The height (12 inches / 305 millimeters) remains constant.

If you'll look at pics of the Fractal Design Define S case, you'll see that the motherboard tray just fits an ATX-sized motherboard (244mm in width). To support the largest of the ATX-W# motherboards (ATX-W4 with a width of 272mm) would require an additional 28mm (1.10236 inches) in width. Taking into consideration the height of the case = 451mm (17.7559 inches), the total increase in size comes out to be 0.14 ft2 (square feet). I'm not a manufacturer, but I'm sure every little extension costs extra. How much extra though, I don't know.

Bottom line for me: Since the ATX-W# motherboards aren't truly E-ATX in size, I'd like it very much if manufacturers would support these boards in their ATX cases.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RebelHell*
> 
> Including your wallet. The Aquaero is a nice bit of kit but is seriously overpriced. I manage the same thing with a $50 Corsair Link Commander. Just don't use Corsair's software, it sucks. Using SIV I am able to set up my own fan/pump curves based on any temp sensor in the system. It has six fan channels and four temp sensor channels as well as a single LED channel. The Lighting could use some work, I'll give you that. But it can't be beat for the price.










I get your sentiment but don't find that with the Aquaero 5LT model.. .. got it for $54 (US) + some shipping. I think the software suite alone is worth it + really nice it doesn't need software to operate.
But yes the full featured ones with the display ... unnecessarily expensive.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> I ordered separate fan controller before, but since I have fans that are barely audible at night in total silence when they are at 5V, and since Define R5 fan controller is able to control more than 3 fans, I didn't find any reason to spend equivalent of 5 fans or 128 GB SSD on separate fan controller. I already spent enough for this case and replacing fans in it, which is overall not a ultra huge improvement over my previous case, and I could easily get 512GB SSD for all of this money.
> 
> I want only 5V and Off, I don't plan to increase fan speeds. I have very sensitive hearing and all fans I tested, even those 3 times more expensive than my current ones, are starting to rattle quite a lot beyond 5V, so all of this controlling by temperature is useless to me.
> 
> One disadvantage of my current system with this Define R5 controller is that it cannot turn fans off, this is why I ask about it. This is not a big problem since it is hard to hear them, but I am used to have fans off and total silence outside of games.
> 
> At the end I could just buy SATA cable extension for fan controller to bring it outside of a case, connect second SATA cable to my PSU and also bring this cable outside of my case and connect and disconnect fan controller manually, not a problem for me at all.


Got it. I only mentioned the fan controller because as you said fans have quite some vibration at certain RPM levels which that can avoid. Now I'm not sure what motherboard you're running and what fans.. but what about just splitting the signal from your mobo header? I've ran up to 5 fans simply from 1 mobo header. Low rpm fans like Scythe Glidestreams are cheap, have no vibration and draw very little current - (Noctua redux and A-FLX were considerably worse in noise/vibration). Or is that somehow not an option?


----------



## Krzych04650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Got it. I only mentioned the fan controller because as you said fans have quite some vibration at certain RPM levels which that can avoid. Now I'm not sure what motherboard you're running and what fans.. but what about just splitting the signal from your mobo header? I've ran up to 5 fans simply from 1 mobo header. Low rpm fans like Scythe Glidestreams are cheap, have no vibration and draw very little current - (Noctua redux and A-FLX were considerably worse in noise/vibration). Or is that somehow not an option?


I have Asus Z97-P motherboard and Silentum PC Sigma Pro 140mm 3pin fans. Software for this mobo is pretty horrible and it also cannot turn off the fans, so not really an improvement over Define fan controller. All I want is option to turn off fans. They could just give this option in Define, my previous 3 times cheaper case had off-low-high control and it was 3x controller, I mean 3 switches, separate control for 2 fans for each switch. I sold it to my brother but he doesn't have any PC yet so I may take controller from my previous case and then create custom 5.25 bay and place this controller there somehow and install in R5(this controller is mounted inside the top of this old case). There are some five 4pin fans in this case that can be controlled from mobo so he won't need this controller and he also won't need fans to be turned off, he is not as sensitive for sounds like me, not at all, actually you can scream next to him while he is sleeping and he won't even move, let alone waking up







I am just afraid that the top of this case is sealed with rivets. And I don't know if low speed for this controller is 5V or 7V. But I will check that out.

I just got those 3pin Y splitters and they are working, now 5 fans are running. I mounted one on the bottom of the case and one on the side panel, and got some cheap dust filter for it, and sound didn't increased too much, only bottom fan is louder than others, I just need to put something below case legs because bottom fans are usually loud because they have very little space below them. Increasing legs height by about 5 cm solved this.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> I have Asus Z97-P motherboard and Silentum PC Sigma Pro 140mm 3pin fans. Software for this mobo is pretty horrible and it also cannot turn off the fans, so not really an improvement over Define fan controller. All I want is option to turn off fans. They could just give this option in Define, my previous 3 times cheaper case had off-low-high control and it was 3x controller, I mean 3 switches, separate control for 2 fans for each switch. I sold it to my brother but he doesn't have any PC yet so I may take controller from my previous case and then create custom 5.25 bay and place this controller there somehow and install in R5(this controller is mounted inside the top of this old case). There are some five 4pin fans in this case that can be controlled from mobo so he won't need this controller and he also won't need fans to be turned off, he is not as sensitive for sounds like me, not at all, actually you can scream next to him while he is sleeping and he won't even move, let alone waking up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am just afraid that the top of this case is sealed with rivets. And I don't know if low speed for this controller is 5V or 7V. But I will check that out.
> 
> I just got those 3pin Y splitters and they are working, now 5 fans are running. I mounted one on the bottom of the case and one on the side panel, and got some cheap dust filter for it, and sound didn't increased too much, only bottom fan is louder than others, I just need to put something below case legs because bottom fans are usually loud because they have very little space below them. Increasing legs height by about 5 cm solved this.


I see that's a pity that the mobo doesn't allow it off and the lowest setting does not get your fans to an inaudibe level (they must be quite high RPM?).

The other thing you could have a look at is to see if you can intercept the GND of your existing fan controller... drill a whole, and put in an extra switch to cut/connect the GND. That would be a cheap small mod.

With my last case (the Nano still in my signature) the pumps noise really annoyed me, especially in the evenings. As a result, this time my build was about quietness.. so I've got only SSDs and a Define S with 140mm EK fans running at 400-500rpm in normal use / idle . The whole system now is inaudible when more than a meter away. At daytime, I can't hear it at all even with it setting right next to me on my desk. 140mm I think is the way to go as they move quite a bit more air than 120mm at a same dBa level. Anyway it's probably not a consideration for you now, but thought I mention it as it's been quite a nice surprise. Somethings get hyped and are still ****ty, other things actually work.


----------



## Krzych04650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> I see that's a pity that the mobo doesn't allow it off and the lowest setting does not get your fans to an inaudibe level (they must be quite high RPM?).
> 
> The other thing you could have a look at is to see if you can intercept the GND of your existing fan controller... drill a whole, and put in an extra switch to cut/connect the GND. That would be a cheap small mod.
> 
> With my last case (the Nano still in my signature) the pumps noise really annoyed me, especially in the evenings. As a result, this time my build was about quietness.. so I've got only SSDs and a Define S with 140mm EK fans running at 400-500rpm in normal use / idle . The whole system now is inaudible when more than a meter away. At daytime, I can't hear it at all even with it setting right next to me on my desk. 140mm I think is the way to go as they move quite a bit more air than 120mm at a same dBa level. Anyway it's probably not a consideration for you now, but thought I mention it as it's been quite a nice surprise. Somethings get hyped and are still ****ty, other things actually work.


Fans have 400-800 RPM range. But like I said, my hearing is just crazy, few fans even at as low speed as 400 RPM humming in case below my desk is enough to distract me at times. I hate this. Sounds inaudible for others are annoying to me. For example my MSI 980 Ti I sold few weeks ago was whining like crazy for me, while no one from my family was able to hear it and guy who bought this card from me also said that he is not hearing any coil whine, like completely none. Not to mention what happened when I got 980 Ti Hybrid with its pump noise... This is just stupid, there is no advantage of having such sensitive hearing, it is not only useless but also annoying as fcuk.

But after long fight with stupid build of my old case, I was able to get fan controller out, it is working on 5V-OFF-12V, so problem is solved. 7V introduces a lot of rattling so I wouldn't use it anyway. I will mount it to one of those 5.25 covers from Define R5. I have two fans in front, one on the bottom near PSU and one on side panel, so it should be enough intake even at 5V. I plan to get RX480 and then get Vega, so I will just make fans of GPU not to exceed case fans noise levels and I will get my desired nearly silent gaming. And with Vega we will see how hot will it be and how cooling solutions evolve, I am really interested in Raijintek passive water cooling. Sound like dream solution, I wonder what performance it can provide.


----------



## 44TZL

I went the watercooling way but the other path is through passive cooling indeed. Prolimatech has very good coolers for that. See here in another post - it's fan assisted there but I'm sure next gen could run fine on that. I would think that something like a Corsair Air 540 with one 140mm fan up to could do a very good job. Quite interested to see the new Corsair ML line of fans as well - no bearing noise is an attractrive prospect.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> Fans have 400-800 RPM range. But like I said, my hearing is just crazy, few fans even at as low speed as 400 RPM humming in case below my desk is enough to distract me at times. I hate this. Sounds inaudible for others are annoying to me. For example my MSI 980 Ti I sold few weeks ago was whining like crazy for me, while no one from my family was able to hear it and guy who bought this card from me also said that he is not hearing any coil whine, like completely none. Not to mention what happened when I got 980 Ti Hybrid with its pump noise... This is just stupid, there is no advantage of having such sensitive hearing, it is not only useless but also annoying as fcuk.
> 
> But after long fight with stupid build of my old case, I was able to get fan controller out, it is working on 5V-OFF-12V, so problem is solved. 7V introduces a lot of rattling so I wouldn't use it anyway. I will mount it to one of those 5.25 covers from Define R5. I have two fans in front, one on the bottom near PSU and one on side panel, so it should be enough intake even at 5V. I plan to get RX480 and then get Vega, so I will just make fans of GPU not to exceed case fans noise levels and I will get my desired nearly silent gaming. And with Vega we will see how hot will it be and how cooling solutions evolve, I am really interested in Raijintek passive water cooling. Sound like dream solution, I wonder what performance it can provide.


I hear ya, it's the same here on OCN, most people are deaf and noise doesn't bother them.

But the AIO passive WC is more of a dream than a working solution, the pump/flow action provided is likely to be so small making an effective cooler out of it is not going to be any more effective than using a simply aluminum air cooler which have been around for decades and work well.

I do not know why fan makers didn't use magnetic bearings yet really, it's the most obvious choice for a bearing that makes no noise and doesn't need maintenance. I don't like ball bearings as they are the loudest, most expensive to make, easy to break if not done in quality, ... sure they are better than plastic sleeve bearings but if one uses a quality sleeve like bearings they are near silent and last forever. And when it comes to extreme loads/forces ball bearings are the last to go with as they are easy to overload and fail. Don't even think about dust and particles inside the ball bearings housing, noise and fail. So I don't get the PC market's obsession with ball bearings. I guess it's because they tend to make them in higher quality than they bother with sleeve bearings quality. Fans being electro magnetic motors, magnetic bearings to me is a no brainer especially since fans have light load/forces/torque.


----------



## JAM3S121

I'm looking to build a simple loop in a Fractal Design S case.

How are people handling draining their loops in this case? I want to have a gpu block, cpu block, 360 rad and tube res/pump combo. I would prefer to not have a ugly line pushed off to the side to drain it and I'm probably over complicating this whole thing.

I just purchased this case btw


----------



## JackCY

Duh what? Don't most DIY WC have a drain port somewhere on the bottom of the case/loop so gravity bleeds the system? It's more of a Q for water cooling thread really.


----------



## Jyve

It probably is a question for the water cooling forum but I don't have a problem with him asking it here either. I'd like to think the owners clubs are a good place where owners can bond and maybe branch out a bit when help is needed.

As for the draining port, yeah, most have a small piece of tubing or a valve or something. Another option I think would be just unscrewing one of the ports on the res/pump and draining it from there. Yeah it's a little less elegant than having a dedicated setup but should work.


----------



## Jyve

*edited for double post*
**I hate my phone sometimes**


----------



## Ithanul

I'm kind of glad my hearing is not that sensitive, but then again six years around jet engines does a number on one's ears. Bad thing was developing that annoying ringing sound in my right ear that comes and goes. Talk about something that can drive you nuts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I'm looking to build a simple loop in a Fractal Design S case.
> 
> How are people handling draining their loops in this case? I want to have a gpu block, cpu block, 360 rad and tube res/pump combo. I would prefer to not have a ugly line pushed off to the side to drain it and I'm probably over complicating this whole thing.
> 
> I just purchased this case btw


Best thing is a drain valve at your lowest point in the loop. Otherwise, it can be a royal pain to drain one without a drain port.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I'm looking to build a simple loop in a Fractal Design S case.
> 
> How are people handling draining their loops in this case? I want to have a gpu block, cpu block, 360 rad and tube res/pump combo. I would prefer to not have a ugly line pushed off to the side to drain it and I'm probably over complicating this whole thing.
> 
> I just purchased this case btw


If you get a T fitting like this:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/Alphacool-Connection-Terminal-TEE-T-Piece-round-G14-Deep-Black_54215.html

and combine it with a drain valve like this:-
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/EK-Water-Blocks-EK-AF-Ball-Valve-10mm-G1--4-Ball-valve-black_55364.html

Then you're good to go, make sure you have a female to female adapter too, and put it at the lowest point of your loop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Duh what? Don't most DIY WC have a drain port somewhere on the bottom of the case/loop so gravity bleeds the system? It's more of a Q for water cooling thread really.


Not really, I've had a few rigs without a drain valve, but they tend to be soft tubing loops. If you have a multiport rad you can undo one port at the highest point, put a fitting and a tube on it then turn the case and drain.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> It probably is a question for the water cooling forum but I don't have a problem with him asking it here either. I'd like to think the owners clubs are a good place where owners can bond and maybe branch out a bit when help is needed.
> 
> As for the draining port, yeah, most have a small piece of tubing or a valve or something. Another option I think would be just unscrewing one of the ports on the res/pump and draining it from there. Yeah it's a little less elegant than having a dedicated setup but should work.


Works well see reply above this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I'm kind of glad my hearing is not that sensitive, but then again six years around jet engines does a number on one's ears. Bad thing was developing that annoying ringing sound in my right ear that comes and goes. Talk about something that can drive you nuts.
> Best thing is a drain valve at your lowest point in the loop. Otherwise, it can be a royal pain to drain one without a drain port.


Not really that much of a pain, depends on the set up really.


----------



## RebelHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I'm looking to build a simple loop in a Fractal Design S case.
> 
> How are people handling draining their loops in this case? I want to have a gpu block, cpu block, 360 rad and tube res/pump combo. I would prefer to not have a ugly line pushed off to the side to drain it and I'm probably over complicating this whole thing.
> 
> I just purchased this case btw


I have a Node 804, not the S, but the drain for my loop is just a piece of flex tubing with a plug in the end. Not very elegant. My original intent was to install a panel pass through on the bottom of the case and have a valve between that and the pump. I just didn't have enough room for the valve and its fittings. This seems to work though and you can't see it being in the back of the case.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Snagged some new memory for the Define Nano S to replace the G.Skill set I have. This is some sessi looking memory for $39.99 @ Fry's


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Snagged some new memory for the Define Nano S to replace the G.Skill set I have. This is some sessi looking memory for $39.99 @ Fry's


I don't see any klevv ram on frys site. Link? Ddr3 or 4?

*edit* nm, I found it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Lol DDR3 it was hard to find, I stumbled on it on a google shopping search since I wanted to see what the prices were at and boom Google pulled through


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol DDR3 it was hard to find, I stumbled on it on a google shopping search since I wanted to see what the prices were at and boom Google pulled through


Yeah. It's listed as link Depot for the manufacturer. You can also search for dd3 KL and it'll pop up. All out of stock at my frys. Also unfortunately looks like only 8gb kits (2x4). Wouldn't mind a couple 16gb kits


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Lol DDR3 it was hard to find, I stumbled on it on a google shopping search since I wanted to see what the prices were at and boom Google pulled through


Amazon.co.uk sells them cheap, much cheaper than ebay, also bigger choice.
I got mine really cheap(i think due to "ricer" look but it matches my color scheme perfectly so I gave it a go, decent overclocker).


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muzammil84*
> 
> Amazon.co.uk sells them cheap, much cheaper than ebay, also bigger choice.
> I got mine really cheap(i think due to "ricer" look but it matches my color scheme perfectly so I gave it a go, decent overclocker).


Wow. Those are nice. Any in white and red?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Wow. Those are nice. Any in white and red?


no, this is a "special edition", Faker edition, I think it's some famous kid playing weird rpg games or something.
You can get standard KLEVV Fit which are black chrome/ charcoal color.


----------



## JackCY

Black/grey and blue. No other colors. All RAM series seem to be all about design and LEDs, dunno who sells them the chips because the company itself seems yet another put it together and sell it kind.
The low profile design especially in that blue is nice though.


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Black/grey and blue. No other colors. All RAM series seem to be all about design and LEDs, dunno who sells them the chips because the company itself seems yet another put it together and sell it kind.
> The low profile design especially in that blue is nice though.


KLEVV is a part of SK HYNIX. All their chips are made by Hynix, very good ram with high oc ability and good timings


----------



## JackCY

Well, they offer the same timings as any other memory available on market and here in EU they cost more than other brands. Since they bin the RAM I doubt there will be many 2400MHz DDR3 that would magically clock 3200MHz.


----------



## cadger

Seeing conflicting reports, can anyone confirm the U14S or D15 fitting into the Nano S with a Window?


----------



## mypickaxe

The Node 202 has been an interesting build experience.

Started here:



Tried the stock 95W AMD cooler in the case. I knew it wouldn't fit, but wanted to see with the dust filter removed...would it? Answer: Yes, but it is such a tight fit you may want to mod the case if you simply must have this cooler.

I tried a 70x10mm fan in its place. Did it work? Sort of, but the 10mm fan couldn't move enough air, so I scrapped that idea and waited for the Noctua.



Noctua came in (it was the last part to arrive from the Egg.) It fit, but with the case put together, it just gets too hot. The processor that is. Thermal throttling says hello.



I ordered what turned out to be a really nice 92x25mm fan from Amazon. It's the Arctic F9 PWM if you're interested.

Fits like a charm with the lid closed, moves a lot more air, thermal throttling mostly gone but with the GPU installed, it can still happen in certain circumstances. Would like a GPU with a blower, but right now is not the best time to being picking up a new GPU. Waiting...





Found a good deal on a Corsair H55, and thought I would try my hand at making it work in this case, for now, without the GPU installed.



Found yet another good deal on a 250 GB mSATA drive. So I've got this installed and removed the WiFi module since I'm wired with CAT6.



I can overclock it to 4.5 GHz game stable, but so far there aren't many games I want to play on the APU beyond older DX9 and early DX11 titles. Steam In-Home Streaming is fantastic on this box.

Temps are amazing now, but of course I can't install a GPU in this configuration unless I

A) Mod the case

or

B) Revert back to the Noctua cooler with the Arctic F9 PWM.

There's a third option, and that could be to keep the H55 installed, possibly rotate it 90 degrees, and install a mini GPU such as an R7 250, an RX 460, a mini GTX 960 or 970 or even an R9 Nano.

As it stands, here she is with her front USB ports removed and covered. I only use the front audio ports. USB is taken care of in the rear. If I want to put the USB ports back in, I would probably look for some without shielding or I would need to remove the H55 radiator.



Removed the heat spreaders from the G.Skill DDR3, hoping to promote a bit more air flow through the case and on out the top when mounted vertically.



I like it in the tower orientation, although without a GPU installed, it seems to be just fine in horizontal home theater configuration.



I think this makes almost the perfect streaming box, with room for more than 8 TB of internal storage for local media (more if you want to use splitters and tape the drives to the chassis.)

Steam In-Home Streaming....can't say enough good things about it when it works. *When it works* Sometimes it doesn't...black screens, etc. YMMV.



I watched all of The Martian on HBO Go after putting it back together and playing an hour of GRiD AutoSport. It plays like a champ and stays virtually silent.

The Noctua low noise adapter *really* helps considering it's a 3-pin DC fan. I will need to look into fan control options on this Asrock motherboard with DC fans and pumps.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> The Node 202 has been an interesting build experience.
> 
> Started here:
> 
> 
> 
> Tried the stock 95W AMD cooler in the case. I knew it wouldn't fit, but wanted to see with the dust filter removed...would it? Answer: Yes, but it is such a tight fit you may want to mod the case if you simply must have this cooler.
> 
> I tried a 92x10mm fan in its place. Did it work? Sort of, but the 10mm fan couldn't move enough air, so I scrapped that idea and waited for the Noctua.
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua came in (it was the last part to arrive from the Egg.) It fit, but with the case put together, it just gets too hot. The processor that is. Thermal throttling says hello.
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered what turned out to be a really nice 92x25mm fan from Amazon. It's the Arctic F9 PWM if you're interested.
> 
> Fits like a charm with the lid closed, moves a lot more air, thermal throttling mostly gone but with the GPU installed, it can still happen in certain circumstances. Would like a GPU with a blower, but right now is not the best time to being picking up a new GPU. Waiting...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found a good deal on a Corsair H55, and thought I would try my hand at making it work in this case, for now, without the GPU installed.
> 
> 
> 
> Found yet another good deal on a 250 GB mSATA drive. So I've got this installed and removed the WiFi module since I'm wired with CAT6.
> 
> 
> 
> I can overclock it to 4.5 GHz game stable, but so far there aren't many games I want to play on the APU beyond older DX9 and early DX11 titles. Steam In-Home Streaming is fantastic on this box.
> 
> Temps are amazing now, but of course I can't install a GPU in this configuration unless I
> 
> A) Mod the case
> 
> or
> 
> B) Revert back to the Noctua cooler with the Arctic F9 PWM.
> 
> There's a third option, and that could be to keep the H55 installed, possibly rotate it 90 degrees, and install a mini GPU such as an R7 250, an RX 460, a mini GTX 960 or 970 or even an R9 Nano.
> 
> As it stands, here she is with her front USB ports removed and covered. I only use the front audio ports. USB is taken care of in the rear. If I want to put the USB ports back in, I would probably look for some without shielding or I would need to remove the H55 radiator.
> 
> 
> 
> Removed the heat spreaders from the G.Skill DDR3, hoping to promote a bit more air flow through the case and on out the top when mounted vertically.
> 
> 
> 
> I like it in the tower orientation, although without a GPU installed, it seems to be just fine in horizontal home theater configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> I think this makes almost the perfect streaming box, with room for more than 8 TB of internal storage for local media (more if you want to use splitters and tape the drives to the chassis.)
> 
> Steam In-Home Streaming....can't say enough good things about it when it works. *When it works* Sometimes it doesn't...black screens, etc. YMMV.
> 
> 
> 
> I watched all of The Martian on HBO Go after putting it back together and playing an hour of GRiD AutoSport. It plays like a champ and stays virtually silent.
> 
> The Noctua low noise adapter *really* helps considering it's a 3-pin DC fan. I will need to look into fan control options on this Asrock motherboard with DC fans and pumps.


Very nice setup. I'm very curious about using a 120mm AIO with one of those short itx gpus. Please keep us informed!


----------



## Dimensive

Nice build you have in the 202. I really wanted to go with that case, but the cooler support was a big turn off. Hopefully they'll make a slightly bigger one that can fit a bigger CPU cooler.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Very nice setup. I'm very curious about using a 120mm AIO with one of those short itx gpus. Please keep us informed!


I'll go ahead and let you know now, it will require some modification to the frame of the case (most likely via hack saw and file,) removal of the 2.5" storage mount (use m.2 or mSATA and/or tape your drive somewhere else in the case) or physically disassembling a 120mm AIO (voiding warranty, careful not to lose any of the liquid / refill when done.)

I saw a video on YouTube where someone did something close to this, but I would try my best to find some workarounds, possibly even weld the piece back on after cutting it off.


----------



## Jyve

Wow. That's just way too much molding for me. I'm guessing the same could be said for the other console like itx cases like the Silverstone and the like.

Was kind of hoping with some creative routing of the tubing something like the gigabyte 970 itx would work in the other half.


----------



## Krzych04650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Unfortunately what silent means for PC parts makers has so far only gotten up to sticking a bitumen on the side panel and covering the fan slots when empty, at best covering the front fan intake with a door which helps a lot.
> 
> For me... I've added STP silver on big parts of the case that had nothing on it, top, bottom, 5.25 bay since I didn't want to remove it. *Cut out all the fan grills to remove air obstructions and removed the front fan "trap door" and cut out any unnecessary obstructions again. In the end remade the fan filters with proper mesh. Of course whole case is raised by an inch thick rubber so the bottom intake actually works and isn't starved.*


Do you think that those fan grills have any substantial negative influence on noise levels/air flow? Did cutting them affect case stiffness negatively?
What do you mean by front fan "trap door"?
What do you mean by proper mesh?
And yes, legs are to small, it limits airflow for bottom fans and power supply and make them noticeably louder, I noticed that very easily and moded sufrace my case is standing on so it can have more space at the bottom.


----------



## JackCY

Stiffness? No. I've cut a hole for PSU fan since my PSU fan didn't even fit the original hole I use passive PSU mode anyway though, bottom grill gone and rear grill gone. I kept side panel and top grills since I don't use these. I don't think the stiffness would change if you remove the large top grill the stiffness is really defined in the corners. Of course if it was plastic then it gets a little different as plastic bends so easily.

Yes grills they obstruct a lot and increase noise, you can find comparisons with data on how each type of grill does. These stamped hexagon are quite restrictive, even the basic wire grill does restrict airflow.
Put your hand on exhaust of a fan covered by a grill and then behind a fan not covered by a grill, the difference? Quite big. Even noise changes.

The R4 has a removable front trap door, I don't know how to call it, it works like a castle bridge folds up and down and serves no purpose at all other than to change aesthetics when you open the main front door.

Original:


Mine:


Door gone, all plastic in front of fans that wasn't necessary I cut out also cut out a bigger hole at the bottom of the front panel as it does like to intake air from there, there is some small cut out so I just made it much bigger.

The fan filters from FD are quite coarse they don't really filter much:



Bottom with original filter but moded to be removed from the front using raised feet. The bottom of front door isn't cut yet, you can see how tiny that intake from bottom is there.


----------



## Lither

Does anyone know if I can remove the plastic bracket where I pointed the red arrow to and mount a SSD there so I can remove the bottom HDD cage for better airflow?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lither*
> 
> Does anyone know if I can remove the plastic bracket where I pointed the red arrow to and mount a SSD there so I can remove the bottom HDD cage for better airflow?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


There should be 4 screws holding it in like there is on the bottom one.


----------



## Lither

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> There should be 4 screws holding it in like there is on the bottom one.


I have removed the plastic bracket but can't seem to put the screws in the SSD as I need to reach in through the top to screw the SSD in place.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lither*
> 
> I have removed the plastic bracket but can't seem to put the screws in the SSD as I need to reach in through the top to screw the SSD in place.


Those holes won't match an SSD, but you can use velcro to hold the SSD up there.


----------



## JackCY

Yes as you can see in my avatar all those cages and plastic can be unscrewed. You will need a small screwdriver to get into the 5.25" cage to remove the screws. Holes are of all types there but none probably match drives more than at 1 point. You could drill new ones if you want to use screws. I just use 3M kind of velcro or velcro to attach SSD. I have mine on the bottom of the case.


----------



## Casterina

I'm using the Fractal Design Define Mini case with a 1TB 7200RPM HDD installed on the bottom cage but it vibrates when the drive is working, is there a way to eliminate the vibrations?


----------



## JackCY

Don't mount it hard, don't use the drive cages. Suspend it, or at least velcro it or something that isn't rigid. Most of the time choosing a drive that is quiet and doesn't vibrate is enough but no review site really bothers with those details. My Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200rpm is super quiet but my WD 1TB Green 5400rpm only is the loudest piece of crap ever put into an external plastic enclosure, that thing slows down into low power mode and starts to make hell a lot of noise in it. I've since took it out of the external enclosure to transfer data directly and not be limited by the USB2.0 only since I don't have eSata cable. Really it's a hit or miss with HDDs some are quiet some are loud, you never know. Avoid power saving features on drives.


----------



## Casterina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Don't mount it hard, don't use the drive cages. Suspend it, or at least velcro it or something that isn't rigid. Most of the time choosing a drive that is quiet and doesn't vibrate is enough but no review site really bothers with those details. My Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200rpm is super quiet but my WD 1TB Green 5400rpm only is the loudest piece of crap ever put into an external plastic enclosure, that thing slows down into low power mode and starts to make hell a lot of noise in it. I've since took it out of the external enclosure to transfer data directly and not be limited by the USB2.0 only since I don't have eSata cable. Really it's a hit or miss with HDDs some are quiet some are loud, you never know. Avoid power saving features on drives.


I haven't tighten the screws on the tray as it still has some room to be screwed in but it is not the hard drive that is the problem as I used to have the Corsair 230T case which didn't have any hard drive vibrations issues so I think it is the HDD cage/tray design of the Fractal case.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Wow. That's just way too much molding for me. I'm guessing the same could be said for the other console like itx cases like the Silverstone and the like.
> 
> Was kind of hoping with some creative routing of the tubing something like the gigabyte 970 itx would work in the other half.


The tubing will route just fine. The issue is you can't fit the block through the hole where the tubes route through, without doing one or the other (hack or disassemble.)

As I have it now without a GPU, no mods are necessary...other than removing the front USB 3.0 headers, which could possibly still work in a 90 degree angle bend. I didn't bother with that, since I've had issues with them working even when they were completely flat.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> The tubing will route just fine. The issue is you can't fit the block through the hole where the tubes route through, without doing one or the other (hack or disassemble.)
> 
> As I have it now without a GPU, no mods are necessary...other than removing the front USB 3.0 headers, which could possibly still work in a 90 degree angle bend. I didn't bother with that, since I've had issues with them working even when they were completely flat.


I think I saw that video you were talking about and in retrospect the modding might not be that bad. I certainly wouldn't take apart the AIO but cutting a bit of that center bar might not be a bad deal. Bit of flex in the case but with top on should strengthen it up just fine.

In the video he was running an r9 nano and it was a tight fit. The 2 itx sized 970s are roughly a half inch or more longer. Might still work ok as with the rad and fan it was under the gpu. The nano's pcie is on the end where the 970s are on the top which might lend it to fitting.


----------



## JackCY

Noise is always a combination when it comes to the cages. It can resonate with some combinations.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> I think I saw that video you were talking about and in retrospect the modding might not be that bad. I certainly wouldn't take apart the AIO but cutting a bit of that center bar might not be a bad deal. Bit of flex in the case but with top on should strengthen it up just fine.
> 
> In the video he was running an r9 nano and it was a tight fit. The 2 itx sized 970s are roughly a half inch or more longer. Might still work ok as with the rad and fan it was under the gpu. The nano's pcie is on the end where the 970s are on the top which might lend it to fitting.


The idea I have would involve cutting only one piece, bending it enough to route the tubing through it, then placing it back and then fastening it back in some way. Welding would be a last resort. A shim, a drill press and a couple of rivets might work. But that doesn't lend itself to easy removal of the AIO. I'd be essentially wedded to it for a few years, until the pump dies. Which is going to happen. It's not a question of if, but when.

Another idea is a replacement support bar, which would have to hook onto both sides, which could allow for easy installation and removal as well as provide the strength the case deserves to have...without the lid on. When you're working on it, replacing a motherboard or whatever, it wouldn't be fun to have the case flexing on you.

I'm going to be looking for deals on Mini GPUs. I don't think a Nano is in the cards unless the market just falls out on the Fiji parts over the next few months. A Gigabyte Mini 960 might fit. The Fry's closest to me has them in stock. I'm just not that interested in an Nvidia part right now. I have a TITAN X in my main rig, and the entire concept behind my HTPC / streaming / gaming box was to go all AMD.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> The idea I have would involve cutting only one piece, bending it enough to route the tubing through it, then placing it back and then fastening it back in some way. Welding would be a last resort. A shim, a drill press and a couple of rivets might work. But that doesn't lend itself to easy removal of the AIO. I'd be essentially wedded to it for a few years, until the pump dies. Which is going to happen. It's not a question of if, but when.
> 
> Another idea is a replacement support bar, which would have to hook onto both sides, which could allow for easy installation and removal as well as provide the strength the case deserves to have...without the lid on. When you're working on it, replacing a motherboard or whatever, it wouldn't be fun to have the case flexing on you.
> 
> I'm going to be looking for deals on Mini GPUs. I don't think a Nano is in the cards unless the market just falls out on the Fiji parts over the next few months. A Gigabyte Mini 960 might fit. The Fry's closest to me has them in stock. I'm just not that interested in an Nvidia part right now. I have a TITAN X in my main rig, and the entire concept behind my HTPC / streaming / gaming box was to go all AMD.


Exactly my thoughts on the nano. As cool as it would be it's just too pricey for what I'm looking at.

I'm still in the maybe phase for all of this anyway. I do ha e a line on an itx 1150 mobo for 40 bucks. Thinking of piecing it together with deals on pieces I can get.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

@mypickaxe

Would a Phanteks PH-TC12LS with a slim fan possibly fit?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> @mypickaxe
> 
> Would a Phanteks PH-TC12LS with a slim fan possibly fit?


Yes it would fit (based on what I'm seeing on their site) but only with a slim fan on the top. If you can put a 25mm fan underneath, that might be better than just a slim fan.

I haven't test this configuration. 56mm is the tallest supported cooler, including fan.


----------



## Benjiw

Finally modded my Define S to take a 420mm and a 360mm. Pics soon.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Finally modded my Define S to take a 420mm and a 360mm. Pics soon.


Ooo, can't wait to see.

I still need to get my lazy butt and mod mine to put the EATX into it. But tomorrow is going to busy with hot dogs, good food, and some grilling.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ooo, can't wait to see.
> 
> I still need to get my lazy butt and mod mine to put the EATX into it. But tomorrow is going to busy with hot dogs, good food, and some grilling.


I'm very interested in hearing how you make out with that.

BTW, what size is the 'EATX' you refer to above? Some boards that are called EATX aren't true E-ATX in width. True E-ATX is 305mm high × 330mm wide.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> I'm very interested in hearing how you make out with that.
> 
> BTW, what size is the 'EATX' you refer to above? Some boards that are called EATX aren't true E-ATX in width. True E-ATX is 305mm high × 330mm wide.


Its an ASUS RIVBE. 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm ) So it probably not a true EATX, but it is just wide enough I can't lay it in flat.

I plan to do the modding this week if I can squeeze some time in while it not cooking hot outside.

Just going to have fun though getting it all together since I did manage to get water blocks for the board. Still having a time figuring out what color scheme I want.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ooo, can't wait to see.
> 
> I still need to get my lazy butt and mod mine to put the EATX into it. But tomorrow is going to busy with hot dogs, good food, and some grilling.


It's not too exciting I cut off the lip on the front of the case and dropped the 360mm rad like 5mm or so hahahaha.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Its an ASUS RIVBE. 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm ) So it probably not a true EATX, but it is just wide enough I can't lay it in flat.


Nice board!
Yes, it is not (let's call it) full-sized E-ATX (330mm) as the width is 272mm. However, many of the higher end enthusiast boards today are using 1 of 4 width measurements between ATX (244mm) and 'full-sized' (330mm) E-ATX.

_Note that the ATX and E-ATX (as well as the intermediate E-ATX's) heights are 305MM, thus only the width dimension is of concern.
_
The RIVBE, and the Rampage V Edition 10 which I'm interested in, use the largest of these intermediate E-ATX width measurements at 272mm. What makes it difficult is that while many of the case manufacturers seem to be giving a little leeway to the ATX form factor by supporting intermediate widths in the motherboard tray areas of their cases, they max out at 264mm. That's 8mm short of the 272mm needed to fit the large ASUS boards. This means we need to be looking at full tower cases. All well and good I guess, but I don't want a full tower case--too big for my workspace and other than the motherboard, I don't really need all of the space inside the case either. If the case manufacturers are going to give in to the intermediate E-ATX widths, why not go whole hog and support up to 272mm?!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I plan to do the modding this week if I can squeeze some time in while it not cooking hot outside.
> 
> Just going to have fun though getting it all together since I did manage to get water blocks for the board. Still having a time figuring out what color scheme I want.


Good luck with the build!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I do have to say the RVE 10th anniversary board is sessi.


----------



## Dimensive

I think these two subjects should be noted:

Core 500 wins Must Have Editor's Choice from TweakTown
Node 202 wins Bronze Award from Technic3D

Hoping to see something new from FD in 2016.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Nice board!
> Yes, it is not (let's call it) full-sized E-ATX (330mm) as the width is 272mm. However, many of the higher end enthusiast boards today are using 1 of 4 width measurements between ATX (244mm) and 'full-sized' (330mm) E-ATX.
> 
> _Note that the ATX and E-ATX (as well as the intermediate E-ATX's) heights are 305MM, thus only the width dimension is of concern.
> _
> The RIVBE, and the Rampage V Edition 10 which I'm interested in, use the largest of these intermediate E-ATX width measurements at 272mm. What makes it difficult is that while many of the case manufacturers seem to be giving a little leeway to the ATX form factor by supporting intermediate widths in the motherboard tray areas of their cases, they max out at 264mm. That's 8mm short of the 272mm needed to fit the large ASUS boards. This means we need to be looking at full tower cases. All well and good I guess, but I don't want a full tower case--too big for my workspace and other than the motherboard, I don't really need all of the space inside the case either. If the case manufacturers are going to give in to the intermediate E-ATX widths, why not go whole hog and support up to 272mm?!
> Good luck with the build!


Yeah, I already have my huge Haf X which I have modded up a bit. Plus, I am a bit restricted on space. Only reason I don't have more computers.







I have around enough parts to have 7 in total considering I got two 1U old IBM servers I just need a few parts for.

Plus, the Define S just nice, sleek, and clean look to it. Going to keep it is a sleek and simple in its scheme. Not going flashy with it since it going to be my new case for my 24/7 folder which is all about pushing out WUs all day in [email protected] and BOINC.

I still need to finish my Dad's ITX build and mine in the two Compact Splashes I have. Those are going to be challenge to do since I have never done ITX form factor builds.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The Define S is definitely a nice sleek case, and the Nano is a miniature model of it lol


----------



## Benjiw

Here is the pics of the case mod so I can fit a 360mm rad and a 420mm rad. I need to mod the front bezel next with some mesh so the rad can breathe properly.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Siigari

Hey all. Totally excited about my new little server build in the humble Node 840.

In the meantime, here is my Define XL R2.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> I think I saw that video you were talking about and in retrospect the modding might not be that bad. I certainly wouldn't take apart the AIO but cutting a bit of that center bar might not be a bad deal. Bit of flex in the case but with top on should strengthen it up just fine.
> 
> In the video he was running an r9 nano and it was a tight fit. The 2 itx sized 970s are roughly a half inch or more longer. Might still work ok as with the rad and fan it was under the gpu. The nano's pcie is on the end where the 970s are on the top which might lend it to fitting.


Here's where I left it over the holiday weekend:

New arrival:


Test install (wasn't actually seated properly, at least not initially.)


Before this shot with the fans spinning, I had the PCIe power cable blocking the radiator fan. Funny thing is, it ran just fine for an hour (with the lid installed) before I noticed.










Cleaned up the cabling with zip ties, threw a 1 TB drive and a 250 GB SSD back in there. The HDD is for games, the SSD for data / File History, etc.


I made a little HDD/SSD sandwich:


Taped to the wall. I made sure the HDD was right side up for when I mount the Node 202 vertically (with the GPU on the bottom.)

The HDD makes a GOD AWFUL grinding sound when it is upside down and sometimes when 90 degrees from normal position. This way, I'm assured the only noise I will hear will be FAN NOISE.



It's about as clean as I can get it at this point. With the Samsung 850 EVO mSATA for the boot drive, CSM disabled, AHCI BIOS enabled, the machine boots in the time it takes me to press the power button and sit down on the couch. It's that fast.

Next up is the Asus Maximus VIII Impact, Intel Core i7 6700K and whatever DDR4 I can find on sale.









Not in any huge rush to switch to the Maximus Impact at this point, what I have now...it's is a great little machine, overclocks to a stab le 4.5 GHz at 1.475V with the waterblock, and as long as I have adequate airflow in the room (AC running, doors not closed to my office) I don't see any thermal throttling. A little worried about the VRMs, but it's an inexpensive AMD board...so replaceable if something were to happen.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Here's where I left it over the holiday weekend:
> 
> New arrival:
> 
> 
> Test install (actually wasn't seated properly, initially.)
> 
> 
> Before this shot with the fans spinning, I had the PCIe power cable blocking the radiator fan. Funny thing is, it ran just fine for an hour (with the lid installed) before I noticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned up the cabling with zip ties, threw a 1 TB drive and a 250 GB SSD back in there. The HDD is for games, the SSD for data / File History, etc.
> 
> 
> I made a little HDD/SSD sandwich:
> 
> 
> Taped to the wall. I made sure the HDD was right side up for when I mount the Node 202 vertically (with the GPU on the bottom.)
> 
> The HDD makes a GOD AWFUL grinding sound when it is upside down and sometimes when 90 degrees from normal position. This way, I'm assured the only noise I will hear will be FAN NOISE.
> 
> 
> 
> It's about as clean as I can get it at this point. With the Samsung 850 EVO mSATA for the boot drive, CSM disabled, AHCI BIOS enabled, the machine boots in the time it takes me to press the power button and sit down on the couch. It's that fast.
> 
> Next up is the Asus Maximus VIII Impact, Intel Core i7 6700K and whatever DDR4 I can find on sale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not in any huge rush to switch to the Maximus Impact at this point, what I have now...it's is a great little machine, overclocks to a stab le 4.5 GHz at 1.475V with the waterblock, and as long as I have adequate airflow in the room (AC running, doors not closed to my office) I don't see any thermal throttling. A little worried about the VRMs, but it's an inexpensive AMD board...so replaceable if something were to happen.


Nice looking setup. A little startled to see your cpu voltage but then you clarified it was amd and I settled down.


----------



## mypickaxe

Only regret is I removed the USB 3 headers from the front panel. I think if I were patient I could have found a way to make them work with everything else.

When the rad was rotated 90 degrees from current position, well, the headers had to go.

I have plenty of USB on the back, it's just the convenience factor I sorta miss, even though it's not a big deal.


----------



## Siigari

Okay


----------



## Aqualoon

Question for those who have the Define S Mid tower and a 360 radiator - can you do push/pull setup and still have room for longer graphic cards?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*
> 
> Question for those who have the Define S Mid tower and a 360 radiator - can you do push/pull setup and still have room for longer graphic cards?


Don't see an issue personally, you can put fans on the outside of the case behind the bezel and behind the rad on the front, the top however is a different story.

Thought I had an image to show what I mean but it's not anywhere around, must be on my phone.


----------



## Aqualoon

I was thinking the 360 rad on the front and then just putting exhaust fans on the top.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*
> 
> I was thinking the 360 rad on the front and then just putting exhaust fans on the top.


Just make sure you have nice positive air pressure in your case.


----------



## Siigari

It's all set up now, it's so pretty on my dresser ;D


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aqualoon*
> 
> I was thinking the 360 rad on the front and then just putting exhaust fans on the top.


Just from your question earlier.. your internal clearance for video card + rads/fan is about 47-48 cm.
The setup is also depending on what you're after.. silence, max.performance, what cpu/gpu (both watercooled?) and what you've already got in rads.

If I was to go single rad in the Define S, I'd go with a top 420 as exhaust (lower fan speeds at 140mm, all heat blown out - not in).

If you've got that 360 already, I would try mounting it as exhaust at the top, and add some fans at front as intake. Experiment with covering the vents to the back area.. I found that front fans suck back in the air from there that it just pushed into the case... Also I'd avoid Fractals own fans.. they slow down a lot when facing any kind of static pressure (aka consider pressure fans instead of case fans) and have very little airflow


----------



## jcberg

It has probably been posted before but I just want to add that I had very nice results populating the 3xfront intake and 1xrear exit with some decent fans in my Define S. I have a 290x that dumps a lot of heat in the case, which was a bit of a problem with the stock fans (screaming GPU and very hot CPU).
Anyway with this fan setup the GPU runs at the same noise level as open air (no case) and the CPU temps dropped a good 10C under GPU+CPU load compared to stock fans.

I went for the NF-p14s redux-1200rpm because after shipping it was the cheapest 4-pin fan with good specs. They seem alright except they all run quite faster than rated speed (almost 1400rpm), this is not a problem though because of MB fan control.

I have seen different opinions but the included fans do seem rather poor, they have low ratings on both static pressure and airflow, like very cheap fans. They are marketed as a compromise between pressure and airflow but it seems like it does poor in both. They are quiet and inexpensive though, but there's cheaper stuff that performs the same or better.


----------



## Benjiw

Well here's my build in a define S with 420mm rad and a 360mm rad.


----------



## SonnyTubbs

^ Niiiiice!

Care to share some load temps? I'm always curious about the load temps when I see crazy rad set ups.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Well here's my build in a define S with 420mm rad and a 360mm rad.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonnyTubbs*
> 
> ^ Niiiiice!
> 
> Care to share some load temps? I'm always curious about the load temps when I see crazy rad set ups.


Will let you know when it's booted up but still doing cable management and stuff lol, keep getting distracted.


----------



## SyncR

Hey guys bought a Define S to upgrade my system but have been offered a good deal on a x79 mobo, however its CEB Form Factor 12 inch x 10.5 inch ( 30.48 cm x 26.67 cm ), I saw people fitted EATX in the R5 however not so sure on S

Any idea if it'll fit?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SyncR*
> 
> Hey guys bought a Define S to upgrade my system but have been offered a good deal on a x79 mobo, however its CEB Form Factor 12 inch x 10.5 inch ( 30.48 cm x 26.67 cm ), I saw people fitted EATX in the R5 however not so sure on S
> 
> Any idea if it'll fit?


Not without modding I would imagine, the motherboard tray comes out so you could always make your own rather than cutting the original up.


----------



## SyncR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not without modding I would imagine, the motherboard tray comes out so you could always make your own rather than cutting the original up.


Thanks, guess I can always test and if not send it back to scan and get a R5 or mod my current R3 ha


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not without modding I would imagine, the motherboard tray comes out so you could always make your own rather than cutting the original up.


Wait, are you saying the motherboard tray of a Define S comes out?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Wait, are you saying the motherboard tray of a Define S comes out?


You obviously have to remove the rivets but honestly it isn't a massive task.


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, rivets are not hard to get out. Especially if you have a good dremel on hand or drill.

I had to drill the rivets out of the HDD bay in my Haf X to get that out. Hmmmmmm, you just gave me a better idea.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> You obviously have to remove the rivets but honestly it isn't a massive task.


In that case, EVERY motherboard tray is removable.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Only regret is I removed the USB 3 headers from the front panel. I think if I were patient I could have found a way to make them work with everything else.
> 
> When the rad was rotated 90 degrees from current position, well, the headers had to go.
> 
> I have plenty of USB on the back, it's just the convenience factor I sorta miss, even though it's not a big deal.


I contacted Fractal support and they indicated they do not sell any replacement parts for the Node 202. That is somewhat odd. Just know all of the cables in that case are custom fit for that case - with the exception of the ridiculously long USB headers. That's all I wanted, the front IO panel including the headers. They said they didn't have them.

I'm not buying another Node 202 for headers.

Oh, and I'm fixing the case by replacing it with a Define Nano S. The Node 202 will probably end up in a "revisit for future project" pile in my garage or attic.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonnyTubbs*
> 
> ^ Niiiiice!
> 
> Care to share some load temps? I'm always curious about the load temps when I see crazy rad set ups.


So with my 970 at 1610mhz/8040mhz 1.3v and my 4670k bare die 4.72ghz 1.424v my fans are all on low I get 60c on the chip while under load and my gpu stays at 55c underload.


----------



## SonnyTubbs

^ Cool, appreciate the reply!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> So with my 970 at 1610mhz/8040mhz 1.3v and my 4670k bare die 4.72ghz 1.424v my fans are all on low I get 60c on the chip while under load and my gpu stays at 55c underload.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I contacted Fractal support and they indicated they do not sell any replacement parts for the Node 202. That is somewhat odd. Just know all of the cables in that case are custom fit for that case - with the exception of the ridiculously long USB headers. That's all I wanted, the front IO panel including the headers. They said they didn't have them.
> 
> I'm not buying another Node 202 for headers.
> 
> Oh, and I'm fixing the case by replacing it with a Define Nano S. The Node 202 will probably end up in a "revisit for future project" pile in my garage or attic.


This is something a lot of us here in the North American office would like to see. You're definitely not the first to ask for a way to buy parts. Every time I see a post like this, though, I make sure all the folks at HQ do too.

I'd still like to help if I can though. What was your plan with the replacement headers? How exactly were you going to go about using the extra parts to solve the cable length problem?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Also I'd avoid Fractals own fans.. they slow down a lot when facing any kind of static pressure (aka consider pressure fans instead of case fans) and have very little airflow


This is a really helpful bit of feedback. The moment I saw this I went out to take a closer look for myself. After some research, I've got to say I agree this is an aspect of fan performance where a some extra focus on improvement could really do a look of good. I've shared my thoughts on this with the rest of the team and it's brought up some good discussion on the topic.

Just wanted to say thanks for putting this detail in view.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> This is a really helpful bit of feedback. The moment I saw this I went out to take a closer look for myself. After some research, I've got to say I agree this is an aspect of fan performance where a some extra focus on improvement could really do a look of good. I've shared my thoughts on this with the rest of the team and it's brought up some good discussion on the topic.
> 
> Just wanted to say thanks for putting this detail in view.


I thought the fractal venturi static pressure fans where pretty good. Saw a video review of them that made them look solid to me.

As for the 202 parts. I believe he may have removed them permanently and that's why he's looking for another set. He'll chime in if I'm wrong I'm sure.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> This is a really helpful bit of feedback. The moment I saw this I went out to take a closer look for myself. After some research, I've got to say I agree this is an aspect of fan performance where a some extra focus on improvement could really do a look of good. I've shared my thoughts on this with the rest of the team and it's brought up some good discussion on the topic.
> 
> Just wanted to say thanks for putting this detail in view.


No problems - happy to have inspired something. A sign why your company iterates so well!

As a background to this, I was alerted to this because of what I saw when just putting the front cover on the Define S (2x140mm fractal fans in front, no dust filter):


Since this was just the effect of a very open front, I then proceeded adding the dust filter... which was worse - and the airflow that I felt was just way below what I was used to.

Then I removed the 2 fractal fans altogether .. and got no difference in cooling performance. My 5 EK F1s running at 400-600rpm rpm were running the show completely - filter on/off, front cover.. all make no noticeable difference for their cooling performance. This (currently) leads me to believe that static pressure fans are nearly always the way the go unless someone needs a directed air flow.

Also your fan is not alone in this (even the 12cm Noctua's suffer from slow downs according to thermalbench aka 'Geggeg' on this forum)


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> This is a really helpful bit of feedback. The moment I saw this I went out to take a closer look for myself. After some research, I've got to say I agree this is an aspect of fan performance where a some extra focus on improvement could really do a look of good. I've shared my thoughts on this with the rest of the team and it's brought up some good discussion on the topic.
> 
> Just wanted to say thanks for putting this detail in view.


I have an R4, so an older case with not the latest Fractal fans, but the cheapest (5 USD/4 EUR incl. 21% VAT) fans I could get Gelid Silent 14 have about the same performance airflow and pressure wise but they do not make undesirable noise when mounted horizontally such as case bottom and their motor is quiter with no clicking noise, had I bought more of them I would have swapped the FD R4 fans out. I'm sure there are some nice pressure fans at 12cm but getting decent pressure fans 14cm fans is difficult due to the lower blade speed to keep noise down. Still there are designs that do work (Thermalright, ...).

The front panel openings are small and restrict intake, filters are airflow killers, I don't notice some big fan speed drop but the airflow does go down a lot which is quite normal with filters and it certainly helps to have high pressure fans. All the stamped grills reduce airflow, I cut them out on my R4 first thing after testing them with a fan and how much they block. Filters I've swapped for a #200 mesh with 60.7% open area instead of the stock FD meshes that do not filter fine dust at all, I mean at all. Bottom of the cases is too low, make the feet higher, I have mine raised with rubber and longer screws by 1 inch so the bottom fan can intake air. If someone has a carpet and stock feet, the bottom fan will simply sit right on the carpet.



Summary:

Do not use grills, just leave the fan holes completely empty and cut out, if someone needs a protection for a rear fan include the typical wire addon grill which impedes airflow the least from all the grill options and can easily be removed as well.
Try to improve the fans so that they do not click, can run at any orientation without issues and added noise, have higher pressure to be able to handle radiators/filters/obstructions in airflow.
High case feet to improve bottom intake.
I'm sure others would appreciate EATX support for most common boards like R4 had, this is asked here all the time if R5 or S will fit this or that EATX board (X99s currently).
Use more fine dust filter mesh, such as #100 mesh instead of the #30ish ones.
Always use a front removal for bottom filter, still only R5 has it rest uses the R4 bottom which only allows filter to be removed at the rear, I had to mod my R4 to remove filter at front. Also bigger opening for PSU fan so that even bigger PSUs are not blocked as much.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I contacted Fractal support and they indicated they do not sell any replacement parts for the Node 202. That is somewhat odd. Just know all of the cables in that case are custom fit for that case - with the exception of the ridiculously long USB headers. That's all I wanted, the front IO panel including the headers. They said they didn't have them.
> 
> I'm not buying another Node 202 for headers.
> 
> Oh, and I'm fixing the case by replacing it with a Define Nano S. The Node 202 will probably end up in a "revisit for future project" pile in my garage or attic.
> 
> 
> 
> This is something a lot of us here in the North American office would like to see. You're definitely not the first to ask for a way to buy parts. Every time I see a post like this, though, I make sure all the folks at HQ do too.
> 
> I'd still like to help if I can though. What was your plan with the replacement headers? How exactly were you going to go about using the extra parts to solve the cable length problem?
Click to expand...

Thank you for reading and taking the time to respond. It's much appreciated.

Well, long story short, I was experimenting with radiator fitment and removed the headers. They were summarily missplaced (i.e. confused for rubbish) and thrown in the bin. So, my hope was I could get a replacement IO panel which would include the USB headers.

As far as length, I'm no stranger to splicing them down to size and resheathing. It was a bit less complicated when everything was but a flat ribbon cable so many years ago, but these are at least flat USB cables, so it can't be too terribly difficult.

As far as the Node 202, I am going to re-purpose it with my AMD gear, making it a streaming box.

I have already moved my latest Mini-ITX build over to the Nano S. It just came in today, and it only took 30 minutes to move everything out of the Node 202 and over to the Nano S. I could not be happier with the temperature improvements!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I have an R4, so an older case with not the latest Fractal fans, but the cheapest (5 USD/4 EUR incl. 21% VAT) fans I could get Gelid Silent 14 have about the same performance airflow and pressure wise but they do not make undesirable noise when mounted horizontally such as case bottom and their motor is quiter with no clicking noise, had I bought more of them I would have swapped the FD R4 fans out. I'm sure there are some nice pressure fans at 12cm but getting decent pressure fans 14cm fans is difficult due to the lower blade speed to keep noise down. Still there are designs that do work (Thermalright, ...).
> 
> The front panel openings are small and restrict intake, filters are airflow killers, I don't notice some big fan speed drop but the airflow does go down a lot which is quite normal with filters and it certainly helps to have high pressure fans. All the stamped grills reduce airflow, I cut them out on my R4 first thing after testing them with a fan and how much they block. Filters I've swapped for a #200 mesh with 60.7% open area instead of the stock FD meshes that do not filter fine dust at all, I mean at all. Bottom of the cases is too low, make the feet higher, I have mine raised with rubber and longer screws by 1 inch so the bottom fan can intake air. If someone has a carpet and stock feet, the bottom fan will simply sit right on the carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> Summary:
> 
> Do not use grills, just leave the fan holes completely empty and cut out, if someone needs a protection for a rear fan include the typical wire addon grill which impedes airflow the least from all the grill options and can easily be removed as well.
> Try to improve the fans so that they do not click, can run at any orientation without issues and added noise, have higher pressure to be able to handle radiators/filters/obstructions in airflow.
> High case feet to improve bottom intake.
> I'm sure others would appreciate EATX support for most common boards like R4 had, this is asked here all the time if R5 or S will fit this or that EATX board (X99s currently).
> Use more fine dust filter mesh, such as #100 mesh instead of the #30ish ones.
> Always use a front removal for bottom filter, still only R5 has it rest uses the R4 bottom which only allows filter to be removed at the rear, I had to mod my R4 to remove filter at front. Also bigger opening for PSU fan so that even bigger PSUs are not blocked as much.


I like most of what you have to say but the proverbial but. I have to disagree with the removal of the fan grills. I get the less impeded air flow and could be all for it if they INCLUDED removable grills, but to just remove them and make me buy them if needed I'm against. Regardless if they're just a few bucks apiece.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I like most of what you have to say but the proverbial but. I have to disagree with the removal of the fan grills. I get the less impeded air flow and could be all for it if they INCLUDED removable grills, but to just remove them and make me buy them if needed I'm against. Regardless if they're just a few bucks apiece.


I just clean my PC periodically and I live in a very very dusty area, I don't run filters, PITA.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Summary:
> 
> I'm sure others would appreciate EATX support for most common boards like R4 had, this is asked here all the time if R5 or S will fit this or that EATX board (X99s currently).


+1!
Up to 272mm in width, please. Thanks.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I just clean my PC periodically and I live in a very very dusty area, I don't run filters, PITA.


Yeah I understand filters. I thought you meant the fan grills on the case. The honycombed part at the rear and top of the case.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I like most of what you have to say but the proverbial but. I have to disagree with the removal of the fan grills. I get the less impeded air flow and could be all for it if they INCLUDED removable grills, but to just remove them and make me buy them if needed I'm against. Regardless if they're just a few bucks apiece.


Included wire grill, of course








It's really only the rear one that can come in handy if you move your case a lot or just like to stick your hands behind the case to grab it and can't see there which is quite normal, still it's no trouble to not have any grill but some prefer to have one.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah I understand filters. I thought you meant the fan grills on the case. The honycombed part at the rear and top of the case.


Wasn't me that brought it up to be fair hahaha!


----------



## Aqualoon

Well, thanks to you guys I took the plunge and bought the Define S last night. Replacing all the stock fans with Aerocool DS (red) and all the PCI slot covers with red as well. Looking forward to doing the build, should look really nice once finished.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Wasn't me that brought it up to be fair hahaha!


Oops. Well I guess we all figured out what I was talking about


----------



## frickfrock999

Here's an interview we did with Fractal last night!


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I thought the fractal venturi static pressure fans where pretty good. Saw a video review of them that made them look solid to me.
> 
> As for the 202 parts. I believe he may have removed them permanently and that's why he's looking for another set. He'll chime in if I'm wrong I'm sure.


The Venturi fans do have pretty good static pressure. Highest of our all our fans actually.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I have an R4, so an older case with not the latest Fractal fans, but the cheapest (5 USD/4 EUR incl. 21% VAT) fans I could get Gelid Silent 14 have about the same performance airflow and pressure wise but they do not make undesirable noise when mounted horizontally such as case bottom and their motor is quiter with no clicking noise, had I bought more of them I would have swapped the FD R4 fans out. I'm sure there are some nice pressure fans at 12cm but getting decent pressure fans 14cm fans is difficult due to the lower blade speed to keep noise down. Still there are designs that do work (Thermalright, ...).
> 
> The front panel openings are small and restrict intake, filters are airflow killers, I don't notice some big fan speed drop but the airflow does go down a lot which is quite normal with filters and it certainly helps to have high pressure fans. All the stamped grills reduce airflow, I cut them out on my R4 first thing after testing them with a fan and how much they block. Filters I've swapped for a #200 mesh with 60.7% open area instead of the stock FD meshes that do not filter fine dust at all, I mean at all. Bottom of the cases is too low, make the feet higher, I have mine raised with rubber and longer screws by 1 inch so the bottom fan can intake air. If someone has a carpet and stock feet, the bottom fan will simply sit right on the carpet.
> 
> 
> 
> Summary:
> 
> Do not use grills, just leave the fan holes completely empty and cut out, if someone needs a protection for a rear fan include the typical wire addon grill which impedes airflow the least from all the grill options and can easily be removed as well.
> Try to improve the fans so that they do not click, can run at any orientation without issues and added noise, have higher pressure to be able to handle radiators/filters/obstructions in airflow.
> High case feet to improve bottom intake.
> I'm sure others would appreciate EATX support for most common boards like R4 had, this is asked here all the time if R5 or S will fit this or that EATX board (X99s currently).
> Use more fine dust filter mesh, such as #100 mesh instead of the #30ish ones.
> Always use a front removal for bottom filter, still only R5 has it rest uses the R4 bottom which only allows filter to be removed at the rear, I had to mod my R4 to remove filter at front. Also bigger opening for PSU fan so that even bigger PSUs are not blocked as much.


This is exactly the sort of input we love to see. I'm not sure about doing away with fan grills entirely as it's one of those things a lot of people really just expect to be there. I know if got a case and it just had gaping fan holes on it, I'd assume the maker did it to cheap out rather than tune performance. Still I'd be willing to bet we could find a way to reduce their performance impact if we put our thinking caps on. I totally agree on more EATX support though, especially since several of ATX cases seem so, so close to being able to do it as they are.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Thank you for reading and taking the time to respond. It's much appreciated.
> 
> Well, long story short, I was experimenting with radiator fitment and removed the headers. They were summarily missplaced (i.e. confused for rubbish) and thrown in the bin. So, my hope was I could get a replacement IO panel which would include the USB headers.
> 
> As far as length, I'm no stranger to splicing them down to size and resheathing. It was a bit less complicated when everything was but a flat ribbon cable so many years ago, but these are at least flat USB cables, so it can't be too terribly difficult.
> 
> As far as the Node 202, I am going to re-purpose it with my AMD gear, making it a streaming box.
> 
> I have already moved my latest Mini-ITX build over to the Nano S. It just came in today, and it only took 30 minutes to move everything out of the Node 202 and over to the Nano S. I could not be happier with the temperature improvements!


Not sure why it wasn't offered the first time, but we can totally get you a replacement header assembly on the house if you can cover the shipping. That's no problem at all. Maybe we just randomly happened to be out of the part at the time? If you can either tell me what your ticket# was or pm me your contact info, we can pull everything back up and get it all sorted out quick as a flash.


----------



## Badwrench

I just recently swapped cases out from a Corsair 250D to the Nano S. I tried a Node 202, but it was just a bit too small inside for my ocd cable routing (it all fit, but was very tight with 2x2.5' drives in the bay). I am loving the Nano S. I used the factory fans in both locations, I just have the stock fan on my Water 3.0. It is completely silent even right up next to it. It was fun using an sfx psu to get the look of a full ATX build.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I just recently swapped cases out from a Corsair 250D to the Nano S. I tried a Node 202, but it was just a bit too small inside for my ocd cable routing (it all fit, but was very tight with 2x2.5' drives in the bay). I am loving the Nano S. I used the factory fans in both locations, I just have the stock fan on my Water 3.0. It is completely silent even right up next to it. It was fun using an sfx psu to get the look of a full ATX build.


Haha. Very nice. I see what you mean about the sfx psu. Does make it look like an atx system was hit with a shrink ray rather than gear just stuffed into a small case.

Still bummed about the 202 though. Liked what you were doing there.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> This is exactly the sort of input we love to see. I'm not sure about doing away with fan grills entirely as it's one of those things a lot of people really just expect to be there. I know if got a case and it just had gaping fan holes on it, I'd assume the maker did it to cheap out rather than tune performance. Still I'd be willing to bet we could find a way to reduce their performance impact if we put our thinking caps on. I totally agree on more EATX support though, especially since several of ATX cases seem so, so close to being able to do it as they are.


Thank you.
I will take the popular R5 and S as an example for grills as it seems to me to be the most up to date designs.

*Front:* both have already updated front intake with reduced grills compared to R4, although in the mesh filter you don't need so many horizontal line supports and on S not even so many vertical ones, especially when the supports are thick such as on the R5 filter
*Bottom:* PSUs come with their own fan grill, there is no need for a grill on the bottom of a case really, no one can even see that and especially not after installing a PSU and a dust filter there, bottom fan and cage area grill can be useful for water coolers and moving cage to different position for those that use drive cages, still even those can be removed and cages screwed in at the 140mm fan holes along the edge, like so, I've kept on my R4 just in case. In progress pictures below.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




^ Shows the higher feet, front filter removal and cut out bottom grills on R4 but it's still missing the new filter mesh and larger opening on the bottom of the front panel, you wouldn't believe how much air the front fan likes to intake from the bottom of the front panel it really helps with intake to enlarge the holes in front panel.


^ These are older pics, newest to oldest.

My stainless steel mesh #200 filters, no one makes rigid custom filters especially not Demciflex, only option and also the cheaper was to get a decent mesh, I have stainless steel one #200 60.77% open area which should be equal or better to Demciflex, simply cut the original plastic filter out with a hobby knife and then literally soldered the stainless steel filter into the original plastic frames, just melted it into the plastic.





*Top:* it's more of an aesthetic question, with no fan the holes would be covered by the covers there are on R5/S, when fans are installed they would be completely open with no grill present, on the other hand people like to install custom grills on such visible areas anyway and the restriction from a radiator is already bad enough for the fans, adding spare wire grills would also work for those that want to protect their top fans from mishaps without impeding airflow much
*Rear:* it is not visible in most use cases and can be left open with no worries, again included spare wire grill should satisfy those that want it protected or visually enhanced

I'm sure wire grills don't have to be the standard ones, you can also design your own that please your design department








I remember wire grills being quite common long time ago as it was easier to make a big hole instead of stamping a mesh into sheet metal. Then the machines for stamping got common and everyone started stamping custom stamped grills with huge air restrictions. A shame really.

LED ring, I'm not sure if R5/S has this but I've moded my R4 to have blue and white LED one for power and the other for drive activity. Looks like this:



Personally I have both of these LEDs disabled in UEFI though







The white simply blinks when I start the PC and that's it for me, I find LEDs distracting especially blinking.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I just recently swapped cases out from a Corsair 250D to the Nano S. I tried a Node 202, but it was just a bit too small inside for my ocd cable routing (it all fit, but was very tight with 2x2.5' drives in the bay). I am loving the Nano S. I used the factory fans in both locations, I just have the stock fan on my Water 3.0. It is completely silent even right up next to it. It was fun using an sfx psu to get the look of a full ATX build.


I really need to do some research on cable extensions. I put a Silverstone SX700-LPT in my Nano S, and the cable management is a mess. The 24-pin and auxiliary CPU power cables aren't long enough to reach behind the case and back through. It's strictly superficial, not functionally impacting me in any way. Temps are great.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I really need to do some research on cable extensions. I put a Silverstone SX700-LPT in my Nano S, and the cable management is a mess. The 24-pin and auxiliary CPU power cables aren't long enough to reach behind the case and back through. It's strictly superficial, not functionally impacting me in any way. Temps are great.


Yeah, I never even thought they would be too short. The extension is from an old build but I still really like the color of it. I had misplaced the 8pin for the cpu, but found it after the build. I had to route the stock 8pin under the bracket end of the gpu and up. It almost completely dissappears, but still bugs me that it isn't routed through the back. Not really an issue since there is a ton of stuff back there: 2.5" and 3.5" drives plus all the sata cables and most of the 24pin and extension.

Loving the temps and lack of sound.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Still have to say the Nano S is a great case to build in considering its size


----------



## vkvkvvk

I built my rig last month using corsair 540 with RGB led strips,RGB fans,RGB aio cooler: http://www.overclock.net/t/1404897/official-corsair-carbide-air-540-owners-club-gallery/12040#post_25272969

Decided to give up rgb led aesthetics and go for silence.

__
https://flic.kr/p/K2HGWE


----------



## Krzych04650

I have made small test in my Define R5 to see what fan configuration is the best, I will post it here if, maybe it will be useful to someone.

Tests are made with Sapphire R9 390 Nitro at 28% fan speed (1400 RPM) and i5 4690K cooled with Silentum PC Fortis 3 Malik Customs with fan set to 900 RPM. Case fans used are SilentiumPC Sigma Pro 140mm 3-pin 400-800 RPM fans set at 5V, so minimal speed at 400 RPM. Ambient temperature was 23.4-23.6. To stress GPU I used Valley Benchmark, and since Valley is not stressing CPU too much I used CPU-Z "Stess CPU" feature at the same time so both CPU and GPU are stressed at the same time, more than they would in gaming session. Charts are showing temperature measurements for different fan configurations after 10 minutes of stress testing, components were cooled after every test and every test starts from ~30C GPU temp and 31-33C CPU temp.
(direct link for better visibility)


----------



## Scotty99

Hey fractal R5 owners i got two questions for ya!

From what i can tell a 280mm rad will fit at the top correct? The particular cooler im looking at is the corsair H110i GTX.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181094&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

Second, anyone have any experience with this filter?:
http://www.demcifilter.com/p0568/Fractal-Design-R5-2-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx

I definitely want a filter up top this company seems decent, would the "2 vent" be enough to cover the H110i or should i go with the 3 vent cover to be safe?

Does anyone see anything conflictiing with these two parts? I am looking at getting the R5 blackout case with a window or the nzxt H440 still havent made up my mind. But i think this is the setup id do if i went with the R5.

Thanks.


----------



## JackCY

The NZXT to me seems to have very restricted airflow at front and top, just a tiny in/outtake holes on one side. While their cases do look appealing they always have some major flaw to me.

Standard AIOs fit almost to any case.


----------



## Scotty99

H440 isnt meant for watercooling id put a quality air cooler if i went that route. I just wasnt sure the holes in the R5 support 280mm (some do some dont).


----------



## JackCY

You can fit a 420 in R5 top, so a 280 is no problem. The whole top is drilled with a grill and holes for 120 and 140 mounting positions. You can just put it anywhere up top.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Thank you.
> I will take the popular R5 and S as an example for grills as it seems to me to be the most up to date designs.
> 
> *Front:* both have already updated front intake with reduced grills compared to R4, although in the mesh filter you don't need so many horizontal line supports and on S not even so many vertical ones, especially when the supports are thick such as on the R5 filter
> *Bottom:* PSUs come with their own fan grill, there is no need for a grill on the bottom of a case really, no one can even see that and especially not after installing a PSU and a dust filter there, bottom fan and cage area grill can be useful for water coolers and moving cage to different position for those that use drive cages, still even those can be removed and cages screwed in at the 140mm fan holes along the edge, like so, I've kept on my R4 just in case. In progress pictures below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Shows the higher feet, front filter removal and cut out bottom grills on R4 but it's still missing the new filter mesh and larger opening on the bottom of the front panel, you wouldn't believe how much air the front fan likes to intake from the bottom of the front panel it really helps with intake to enlarge the holes in front panel.
> 
> 
> ^ These are older pics, newest to oldest.
> 
> My stainless steel mesh #200 filters, no one makes rigid custom filters especially not Demciflex, only option and also the cheaper was to get a decent mesh, I have stainless steel one #200 60.77% open area which should be equal or better to Demciflex, simply cut the original plastic filter out with a hobby knife and then literally soldered the stainless steel filter into the original plastic frames, just melted it into the plastic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Top:* it's more of an aesthetic question, with no fan the holes would be covered by the covers there are on R5/S, when fans are installed they would be completely open with no grill present, on the other hand people like to install custom grills on such visible areas anyway and the restriction from a radiator is already bad enough for the fans, adding spare wire grills would also work for those that want to protect their top fans from mishaps without impeding airflow much
> *Rear:* it is not visible in most use cases and can be left open with no worries, again included spare wire grill should satisfy those that want it protected or visually enhanced
> 
> I'm sure wire grills don't have to be the standard ones, you can also design your own that please your design department
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I remember wire grills being quite common long time ago as it was easier to make a big hole instead of stamping a mesh into sheet metal. Then the machines for stamping got common and everyone started stamping custom stamped grills with huge air restrictions. A shame really.
> 
> LED ring, I'm not sure if R5/S has this but I've moded my R4 to have blue and white LED one for power and the other for drive activity. Looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I have both of these LEDs disabled in UEFI though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white simply blinks when I start the PC and that's it for me, I find LEDs distracting especially blinking.


Thanks for all the input. Wire grills are certainly practical, but they do have a sort of industrial look that may not be for everyone. I'm also very curious to know whether removing all this metal could affect structural integrity or make panels more prone to warping. I'll be really interested to hear whether you notice any such differences once your build is complete.

As for the LED being distracting, that issue has thankfully been solved in the R5 where the brightness was toned down substantially. I think this is something a lot of products could do with personally. I can't tell you how many devices in my house have tape covering up the needless glaring lights. While they're at it they can quit making every appliance in existence chime little jingles when you power them on, too, but that's a totally different rant.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krzych04650*
> 
> I have made small test in my Define R5 to see what fan configuration is the best, I will post it here if, maybe it will be useful to someone.
> 
> Tests are made with Sapphire R9 390 Nitro at 28% fan speed (1400 RPM) and i5 4690K cooled with Silentum PC Fortis 3 Malik Customs with fan set to 900 RPM. Case fans used are SilentiumPC Sigma Pro 140mm 3-pin 400-800 RPM fans set at 5V, so minimal speed at 400 RPM. Ambient temperature was 23.4-23.6. To stress GPU I used Valley Benchmark, and since Valley is not stressing CPU too much I used CPU-Z "Stess CPU" feature at the same time so both CPU and GPU are stressed at the same time, more than they would in gaming session. Charts are showing temperature measurements for different fan configurations after 10 minutes of stress testing, components were cooled after every test and every test starts from ~30C GPU temp and 31-33C CPU temp.
> (direct link for better visibility)


This is super useful info. We should start doing benchmarks like these ourselves.

I'm sure a ton of other people would be interested to see this too. You should totally put it out on Reddit somewhere like /r/buildapc.


----------



## Dimensive

Fischer, I have to say it's great to have you here to receive feedback and give your own input.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Thanks for all the input. Wire grills are certainly practical, but they do have a sort of industrial look that may not be for everyone. I'm also very curious to know whether removing all this metal could affect structural integrity or make panels more prone to warping. I'll be really interested to hear whether you notice any such differences once your build is complete.


My build is complete for quite some time 1-2years and I move it up and down from ground to table, etc. Cleaning, changing GPU or when I was cutting the remaining bottom piece to make bottom filter front removal and bigger bottom intake on front panel.

I did not remove the top grills since I do not use them and have them covered from inside with the moduvents aka glorified plastic with open cell foam







But that top panel is warped in from factory due to the stamped 2x140mm fan grill there, it's slightly convex toward the inside of the case. Probably not a thing anymore on R5/S or not as much, it's quite normal when stamping metal that it warps/enlarges a bit. One probably won't even notice on pictures unless I put a ruler, something truly flat, on top of the case.

As far as sturdiness goes I didn't notice any changes. All the grills are in flat parts that do not contribute much to overall stiffness. The bottom same as top had 2x fan grill hole stamped so that warped/enlarged that piece of metal and I think even before removing the grills it could be "poped" (change between convex and concave surface) in/out when pressed, sure now that only an inch wide piece of metal is left between PSU fan hole and bottom fan hole and with no PSU installed it can easily be poped in/out if I remember right. Otherwise PSU installs fine and sits on on that inch wide piece of metal with a "3M addon feet", just like the case originally has some PSU foam feet, I've added kind of a rubber 3M feet where my larger PSU sits in one corner, which would need to be added irregardless due to the 180mm PSU length.

As long as the corners of the cube/case remain intact and sturdy there is no change to overall stiffness. The rear is stiff too it has many corners in it's shape. If I would have removed the 5.25" bay I might have added a couple of L shaped pieces of metal there instead into the corners just like there are on the bottom I believe but I kept the bay since it made suspending 3.5" HDD easier.

I can try twisting the case with both hands but I don't notice any issues.

You can try taking a flat piece of metal with a grill stamped and a hole cut, as long as it's thick as the sheet metal the case is made of and there is an inch of material around it say 190x190 for a 140x140mm fan or it's bent to create a corner on the edges, it's gonna be sturdy.
Making holes to improve stiffness is used even in racing cars roll cages as it distributes the hotspot and it can withstand more impact. It's not always detrimental to stiffness to make a hole in something.
Quote:


> As for the LED being distracting, that issue has thankfully been solved in the R5 where the brightness was toned down substantially. I think this is something a lot of products could do with personally. I can't tell you how many devices in my house have tape covering up the needless glaring lights. While they're at it they can quit making every appliance in existence chime little jingles when you power them on, too, but that's a totally different rant.


Yeah same.

The classic wire grills in stainless steel or chrome can be a matter of taste indeed.



On the other hand as suggested there are other options for effective wire grills. Different shapes and colors and mount positions











I prefer the Be Quiet shape but having the warped out shape as Corsair and mount it inside between case and fan looks cleaner but is definitely more tricky to manufacture. Having the grill warped out and more far from fan can reduce noise.


----------



## smithydan

For those looking for a Define S with recent styling, check this out.

Anidees Crystal


----------



## JackCY

I'm sure it will appeal to some even with the price it has but it's quite different from Define series from FD and still has some issues like bottom filter rear removal...


----------



## DarthBaggins

Anidees are definitely different from Fractal cases, just acquired a Anidees AI7


----------



## Dimensive

Interesting. You can see the Fractal Design inspiration for sure. I never heard of that company until yesterday.


----------



## JackCY

The whole industry is one knock off after another, but then how many varying designs can you really do on a cube? Not many. Unless you make it a sphere it's all kind of the same, you cut this edge that way it looks like that case, you put vents here it looks similar to some other case, ... it's all been done, there is not much that can be done original in case design as long as it stay with the classic box shape.


----------



## Ithanul

Which industry don't knock off each other? That be the most important question.


----------



## paskowitz

Not nearly as egregious as Thermaltake.


----------



## rapkct

Cleaned the fans out. Still wished someone import the Venturi fans.


----------



## JackCY

I just checked the Venturi line and they are priced as such that Noctua Redux is cheaper and classic Noctua fans are +10% or so, make no sense to buy FD fans.


----------



## Mack42

Hi,

Would there be any smart way to add (or possibly mod) a fan controller with knobs to let's say a Fractal Design S or Nano S case? They are lacking any 5.25'' or 3.5'' bays, but I would still like to have total manual voltage control over case fans and water pump. Or is it best to try to find another case?


----------



## jvidia

Hi friends!

I have 2 questions for you so you can help me to decide to buy or not to buy one FD R5









Here they go ...

*1)* i have one Lamptron FC5 v3 fan controller. Will it fit on the R5 and the case front door will close?
Need to know if it is compatible with the R5 door?

*2)* what's the space in cm, between the top of the board and the top of the case?
Need to know if my BlackIce GTX 240mm red + 120mm fans will fit well without overlapping the mother board!

Thank you


----------



## TheShadow

Is anyone making a power supply cover for the Define S? I know mtrapuzz did one but are there anyone else making them? Maybe one with SSD mounts and cable cutouts on top like the NZXT cases?


----------



## muzammil84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Hi friends!
> 
> I have 2 questions for you so you can help me to decide to buy or not to buy one FD R5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here they go ...
> 
> *1)* i have one Lamptron FC5 v3 fan controller. Will it fit on the R5 and the case front door will close?
> Need to know if it is compatible with the R5 door?
> 
> *2)* what's the space in cm, between the top of the board and the top of the case?
> Need to know if my BlackIce GTX 240mm red + 120mm fans will fit well without overlapping the mother board!
> 
> Thank you


I used magicool radiator pro which is 46mm thick with 25mm fans on it, this how it looked like:



hope this helps


----------



## jvidia

Jesus Christ









Didn't realized that there is so little space over the motherboard.

My Black Ice GTX240 from HardwareLabs has 54mm of thickness









54mm+25mm from the fans will get me into almost 8cm !!! Definitively I need to go for a full tower









Any recommendations on a full tower from Fractal?

At the moment I'm looking at the Corsair Obsidian 750D that has more of upper clearance.


----------



## mypickaxe

Well, I've added some sleeved cable extensions, it's *just* a little bit tidier, but there's a bunch of cables at the bottom and on the backside I'm not 100% happy with yet. I will need to try again with more focus on maximizing airflow and cable management.

Also, there's so much free space (great for airflow) but I'm feeling like it is calling for water cooling. The Nano S is begging for a pump / res combo and a front mounted rad. Maybe a GPU block on the Nano with a back plate, and of course a proper CPU block.





The H55 is a holdover from my previous attempt at an HTPC build in the Node 202. It's doing great with the 6600K on the ROG Maximus VIII Impact. But we all know this isn't permanent.


----------



## jvidia

I which there whose an Define S XL









Why in hell is so difficult to find a good large case ready for water cooling out of the box?!

Love the Define S outer looks, love the inner open space, love the solution for the disks on the back of the motherboard, love the WC support but .... why the hell don't it has more clearance over the motherboard?! WHY !!!









If it was taller by some miserable 5 centimeters it all would have looked allot better and the top radiators wouldn't have to be packet over the mobo.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> I which there whose an Define S XL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why in hell is so difficult to find a good large case ready for water cooling out of the box?!
> 
> Love the Define S outer looks, love the inner open space, love the solution for the disks on the back of the motherboard, love the WC support but .... why the hell don't it has more clearance over the motherboard?! WHY !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it was taller by some miserable 5 centimeters it all would have looked allot better and the top radiators wouldn't have to be packet over the mobo.


Not sure if this was in response to my post (probably not) but that is the Nano S. It might look like a Define S because I have an SFX-L power supply installed.

But now that you mention it, a Define Nano S *XL*...now *there's* an idea.


----------



## jvidia

No It was only me crying out loud









I noticed you have the Nano S









Noticed another thing that disables me from buying the Define S .... it has only USB 3.0 and my motherboard only has USB 2.0 connectors


----------



## JackCY

Perhaps an HW upgrade is more necessary than a new big case.


----------



## jvidia

Nope! My hardware if enough









Just found that a converter cable from usb 2 -> usb 3 exists:



Anyone tested one?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Nope! My hardware if enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just found that a converter cable from usb 2 -> usb 3 exists:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone tested one?


I use one in a case that has a motherboard with a bad USB3 header. This works great to plug the front panel USB 3 into a USB 2 port on the same motherboard. Reduced speeds, certainly, but totally compatible.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I use one in a case that has a motherboard with a bad USB3 header. This works great to plug the front panel USB 3 into a USB 2 port on the same motherboard. Reduced speeds, certainly, but totally compatible.


That's great to know.
Thank you.


----------



## jvidia

What's the distance between those vertical "slots" on the right side for mounting a reservoir on the Define S?



I would like to know the spaces of those lines in red and yellow.
Can anyone measure that for me?

The red distance is it the same distance as the holes on a 120mm fan?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> What's the distance between those vertical "slots" on the right side for mounting a reservoir on the Define S?
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to know the spaces of those lines in red and yellow.
> Can anyone measure that for me?
> 
> The red distance is it the same distance as the holes on a 120mm fan?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Darn it, give me a moment got to go hunt out my metric ruler....


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Darn it, give me a moment got to go hunt out my metric ruler....












Can you also please measure the clearance between the top of the board and the top of the case?


----------



## JackCY

Just buy the case, test it and return it if you don't like it. Come on


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Just buy the case, test it and return it if you don't like it. Come on


That's easier to say than to do


----------



## Ithanul

Just give me a moment. Just had the o so joy of putting a new alternator in my truck. I want to smack some engineers or who ever thought it was a great idea on its placement.

I will get those measurements for ya.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you also please measure the clearance between the top of the board and the top of the case?


You talking about when a motherboard is in the case, and the clearance from top of RAM sticks or so to top of case?

Ok, about around 25mm on the short red one. Around 100mm on long yellow one.

Are you trying to figure out if you can mount fans there? I have spare fans I can test in there, and nothing built in mine atm.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Just give me a moment. Just had the o so joy of putting a new alternator in my truck. I want to smack some engineers or who ever thought it was a great idea on its placement.
> 
> I will get those measurements for ya.
> You talking about when a motherboard is in the case, and the clearance from top of RAM sticks or so to top of case?
> 
> Ok, about around 25mm on the short red one. Around 100mm on long yellow one.
> 
> Are you trying to figure out if you can mount fans there? I have spare fans I can test in there, and nothing built in mine atm.


Geeee you are so busy and still posting here. Thank you!









As for the purpose of my question about those spaces ... I want to mount an EK X-Res Revo in that place and I was thinking instead of using the supplied adapter that seems a little flimsy/thin I was curious if the EK-UNI Pump Bracket (*120mm FAN*) wouldn't do a better job:



That's why I talked about a 120mm fan space, but you are telling me that the red space is 10cm?








The distance between the holes of a 120mm fan is 10,5cm.

Can you please test with a 120mm fan and see if the 4 holes align with those openings and theoretically could be screwed there?!









As to the clearance question, what I mean is this ... what space is between the top of the case and the beginning of the board, in another way, how many cm do we have until a radiator+fan starts overlaying the motherboard?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Geeee you are so busy and still posting here. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the purpose of my question about those spaces ... I want to mount an EK X-Res Revo in that place and I was thinking instead of using the supplied adapter that seems a little flimsy/thin I was curious if the EK-UNI Pump Bracket (*120mm FAN*) wouldn't do a better job:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I talked about a 120mm fan space, but you are telling me that the red space is 10cm?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The distance between the holes of a 120mm fan is 10,5cm.
> 
> Can you please test with a 120mm fan and see if the 4 holes align with those openings and theoretically could be screwed there?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As to the clearance question, what I mean is this ... what space is between the top of the case and the beginning of the board, in another way, how many cm do we have until a radiator+fan starts overlaying the motherboard?


Ok. I can do that tomorrow.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ok. I can do that tomorrow.


Thank you very much!


----------



## Remmes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Can you please test with a 120mm fan and see if the 4 holes align with those openings and theoretically could be screwed there?!


Doesn't line up, I think the included mounts that come with the case will do just fine though

Edit: for good measure


http://imgur.com/nnRWOUF


The bracket is lined up with the hole on the left, as you can see the fan hole is around 3-4mm too far out.

Edit2: That said you could possibly bend the legs of the fan bracket a tiny bit to get it to line up..

Also it is a 4cm gap between top of board to top of case, keep in mind the mounting is off center so rads/fans can overlap the board a bit.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> As for the purpose of my question about those spaces ... I want to mount an EK X-Res Revo in that place and I was thinking instead of using the supplied adapter that seems a little flimsy/thin I was curious if the EK-UNI Pump Bracket (*120mm FAN*) wouldn't do a better job:


Those mounting strips flex quite a bit, so don't worry to much about the adapter.. my round xres holder is sturdier than what it's mounted on


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> As for the purpose of my question about those spaces ... I want to mount an EK X-Res Revo in that place and I was thinking instead of using the supplied adapter that seems a little flimsy/thin I was curious if the EK-UNI Pump Bracket (*120mm FAN*) wouldn't do a better job:
> 
> 
> 
> Those mounting strips flex quite a bit, so don't worry to much about the adapter.. my round xres holder is sturdier than what it's mounted on
Click to expand...

Did you use what? EK bracket or the Fractal mount strips? Is that a define s?


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmes*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Can you please test with a 120mm fan and see if the 4 holes align with those openings and theoretically could be screwed there?!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't line up, I think the included mounts that come with the case will do just fine though
> 
> Edit: for good measure
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/nnRWOUF
> 
> 
> The bracket is lined up with the hole on the left, as you can see the fan hole is around 3-4mm too far out.
> 
> Edit2: That said you could possibly bend the legs of the fan bracket a tiny bit to get it to line up..
> 
> Also it is a 4cm gap between top of board to top of case, keep in mind the mounting is off center so rads/fans can overlap the board a bit.
Click to expand...

Bending the EK bracket a little is an idea. But and vertically will the bracket fit?


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Did you use what? EK bracket or the Fractal mount strips? Is that a define s?


Yes I used the included EK Bracket. It's a define S.


----------



## Remmes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Bending the EK bracket a little is an idea. But and vertically will the bracket fit?


It would fit but not in "1 section" (top square) you'd have to use 2 sections (bottom square)


http://imgur.com/bdGDP9p


But again, I think the included strips that come with the case should be fine to hold a pump/res.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Bending the EK bracket a little is an idea. But and vertically will the bracket fit?


You can fit the "thick" 240 up top with fans since the mounting holes are offset, as long as you have shorter RAM (without the unnecessarily massive [read: useless] heatsinks and if your CPU block in and out holes allow it with barbs / fittings installed). Also, if that's your only radiator or only thick radiator, you can put the 240 and fans up front. You can even buy yourself 25mm of space by putting the fans on the outside of the case frame and putting the front cover on over the fans (if fitting the pump / res combo is a concern).

The included Fractal pump brackets are plenty strong to hold a pump / res combo. I am using a XSPC Photon 170 res / D5 Vario pump combo and it's had zero issues for years.


----------



## jvidia

OK I'll use the included brackets









One last question .... can I put on a Define S one EK Coolstream PE 360mm on te top and at the front 3 120mm fans?


----------



## finalheaven

For Define R5

Can two harddrives (normal 3.5") be attached the bottom of the case without the use of the harddrive cages? I know that a fan can be attached right next to the PSU, so I was wondering whether that can be used to attach a harddrive as well as the space next to it, where normally the cages will be. Thank you in advance!

I have found this picture: http://i.imgur.com/BA3DJ28.jpg

It appears that at least one harddrive can be attached but I am also wondering about the spot next to it.


----------



## Lodbroke

@finalhaven
Apparently it is possible.
I think he either drilled holes for the "FD disk cassette" or in worst case glued it to the case.
However, if the case takes one or two depends on what case are we talking about?
Don't forget the 5.25" bays, there are special adapters to buy to fit 1 or 2 HDDs.

If it had matter SSDs I would just fasten them with Velcro, and used the side-panels, as SSDs do not vibrate.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> OK I'll use the included brackets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last question .... can I put on a Define S one EK Coolstream PE 360mm on te top and at the front 3 120mm fans?


If they are both slim rads I think you can, but don't take my word for it... I know a few people on OCN have done it... I just don't remember specifics.


----------



## finalheaven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> @finalhaven
> Apparently it is possible.
> I think he either drilled holes for the "FD disk cassette" or in worst case glued it to the case.
> However, if the case takes one or two depends on what case are we talking about?
> Don't forget the 5.25" bays, there are special adapters to buy to fit 1 or 2 HDDs.
> 
> If it had matter SSDs I would just fasten them with Velcro, and used the side-panels, as SSDs do not vibrate.


Forgot to say I was talking about the define R5!

I have one SSD and two HD's. Ideally I don't want to use those drive cages and even the 5.25" cages. In the end though, I don't mind using the 3-drive cage for all my storages.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> OK I'll use the included brackets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One last question .... can I put on a Define S one EK Coolstream PE 360mm on te top and at the front 3 120mm fans?


Yes, its possible.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> If they are both slim rads I think you can, but don't take my word for it... I know a few people on OCN have done it... I just don't remember specifics.


The oficial clearence on the Define S is 5.5cm if i recall well, but going beyond it is only a problem when using 140mm fan rads.
With 120mm fan rads it's more of a visual or pratical problem of having it overlaping the board.
In the case of the PE (with fans) it overlaps by +/- 8mm (3.8cm for the PE + 2.5cm for the fans) over the oficial clearence.

I would like to hear from people who have this setup (Define S + Coolstream PE), if they are happy with it or if it is in any way obstructive and if they would choose again the PE if they were to build the system again.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> The oficial clearence on the Define S is 5.5cm if i recall well, but going beyond it is only a problem when using 140mm fan rads.
> With 120mm fan rads it's more of a visual or pratical problem of having it overlaping the board.
> In the case of the PE (with fans) it overlaps by +/- 8mm (3.8cm for the PE + 2.5cm for the fans) over the oficial clearence.
> 
> I would like to hear from people who have this setup (Define S + Coolstream PE), if they are happy with it or if it is in any way obstructive and if they would choose again the PE if they were to build the system again.


I have a 420mm rad and a 360mm rad in my Define S.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I have a 420mm rad and a 360mm rad in my Define S.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What kind of airflow do you get with that rad on the outside? I'm interested in how effective that is... not nay-saying at all, just curious!


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I have a 420mm rad and a 360mm rad in my Define S.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


What rad is the one on the top? 140mm fans?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> What kind of airflow do you get with that rad on the outside? I'm interested in how effective that is... not nay-saying at all, just curious!


I still need to mod the front bezel, if the bezel is on the air won't pass through the rad because the inside measures 27mm of the bezel. If I drill holes or simply cut out a square then use some mesh I can have the best of both worlds. The irony is that if the case was an inch taller, wider and had another inch on depth most of the clearance issues we face wouldn't exist.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> What rad is the one on the top? 140mm fans?


GTS 420mm Xflow, the fans are EK Vardars 140mm can't remember the exact versions.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I still need to mod the front bezel, if the bezel is on the air won't pass through the rad because the inside measures 27mm of the bezel. If I drill holes or simply cut out a square then use some mesh I can have the best of both worlds. The irony is that if the case was an inch taller, wider and had another inch on depth most of the clearance issues we face wouldn't exist.


Lol, one more inch! I've got a 360 and a 240 in my Define S but I'm finding watercooling a bit tedious and not necessarily worth the effort (solely my opinion, I'm not being down on watercooling in general) so I'll be transitioning to air in the next few months. I'm curious to see how well-suited the Define S is to air cooling with the lack of HDD cages and 5.25" drive bays.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Lol, one more inch! I've got a 360 and a 240 in my Define S but I'm finding watercooling a bit tedious and not necessarily worth the effort (solely my opinion, I'm not being down on watercooling in general) so I'll be transitioning to air in the next few months. I'm curious to see how well-suited the Define S is to air cooling with the lack of HDD cages and 5.25" drive bays.


It works amazing with air coolers too so you will be fine.
I on the other hand will never go back to air because...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Even with 1.6v I still have 10c or so of thermal headroom.


----------



## jvidia

The Noctua NF-F12 are still a good option for rads this days?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It works amazing with air coolers too so you will be fine.
> I on the other hand will never go back to air because...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with 1.6v I still have 10c or so of thermal headroom.


Oh yeah, that's a fantastic overclock! I personally don't need to squeeze every single ounce out of my CPU and GPU and even if I want to it's a lot of effort and money that I'm not quite willing to spend... especially with my time commitments and ever-shrinking free time. Now, ten years ago, definitely.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> The Noctua NF-F12 are still a good option for rads this days?


I believe these days there are better options, like EK Vardars. Others will be able to offer you more info and your best bet would be the OCN Watercooling Club and Picture Gallery.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> The Noctua NF-F12 are still a good option for rads this days?


I would say so, I had some on my 2x 360mm setup before switching, I like them, my gf currently has them in her system.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Oh yeah, that's a fantastic overclock! I personally don't need to squeeze every single ounce out of my CPU and GPU and even if I want to it's a lot of effort and money that I'm not quite willing to spend... especially with my time commitments and ever-shrinking free time. Now, ten years ago, definitely.


I have the parts so might as well squeeze, I only run those numbers when benching most the time my chip sits at 1.5v 4.7ghz as its a poor overclocker sadly.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I would say so, I had some on my 2x 360mm setup before switching, I like them, my gf currently has them in her system.
> I have the parts so might as well squeeze, I only run those numbers when benching most the time my chip sits at 1.5v 4.7ghz as its a poor overclocker sadly.


All I do is game on my computer and, increasingly rarely, code on it. The OC I've achieved on water isn't that much better than the one I'd be able to get on air (not sure if bum 8350 or what) so to me the ease-of-use of air is king. That and I can sell off my WC stuff and sock away the cash for my next GFX card and monitor


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> All I do is game on my computer and, increasingly rarely, code on it. The OC I've achieved on water isn't that much better than the one I'd be able to get on air (not sure if bum 8350 or what) so to me the ease-of-use of air is king. That and I can sell off my WC stuff and sock away the cash for my next GFX card and monitor


8350? Should be able to hit 4.8ghz easily with the UD5 my 8350 is on a watercooled sabertooth at 5ghz.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> 8350? Should be able to hit 4.8ghz easily with the UD5 my 8350 is on a watercooled sabertooth at 5ghz.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I can hit 4.8GHz no problems all day long... it's getting to 4.9 and 5.0 GHz that is tough to do. To me, if I'm going to be at 4.8GHz (which I'm fine with, this chip is awesome at 4.8GHz and above) I might as well go the easy route and get a Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Noctua NH-D15 or somesuch. Plug it in, OC, win life. Boom.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I can hit 4.8GHz no problems all day long... it's getting to 4.9 and 5.0 GHz that is tough to do. To me, if I'm going to be at 4.8GHz (which I'm fine with, this chip is awesome at 4.8GHz and above) I might as well go the easy route and get a Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Noctua NH-D15 or somesuch. Plug it in, OC, win life. Boom.


Stick a fan behind your socket to lower the socket temp and either a waterblock on the VRM or a fan/s over the VRM heatsink. 5ghz for me means 1.6v VCORE, very high LLC, 140% current rate and a slew of other settings, the key to overclocking the 8350 is just keeping it under 80c or the solder melts.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Stick a fan behind your socket to lower the socket temp and either a waterblock on the VRM or a fan/s over the VRM heatsink. 5ghz for me means 1.6v VCORE, very high LLC, 140% current rate and a slew of other settings, the key to overclocking the 8350 is just keeping it under 80c or the solder melts.


Maybe I'll see if I can divert some of the airflow from the front towards the back of the mobo, maybe a little air-guide of some sort? Black cardboard or some plastic... times like these I wish I had a 3D printer...


----------



## R3apR369

Sorry if this has been asked already, but anyone know if the Corsair 750D top filter will work with the Define S?

750D filter


I really don't like the look of the demiflex filters.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Maybe I'll see if I can divert some of the airflow from the front towards the back of the mobo, maybe a little air-guide of some sort? Black cardboard or some plastic... times like these I wish I had a 3D printer...


Someone did that with clear plastic to make an air ram, or ziptie the stock heatsink fans to the vrm heatsink, for me I just fitted some blocks an called it a day.


----------



## Weber

750d top screen on define S is one inch too long and half inch to narrow.


----------



## R3apR369

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weber*
> 
> 750d top screen on define S is one inch too long and half inch to narrow.


Bummer.







Thanks for the info though.

Maybe Ricardo at Coldzero can make me a custom filter.


----------



## finalheaven

Anyone know if a Design R6 is in the works to perhaps include USB Type-C? It appears that the Design R# models are released every two years and it will be two years towards the end of this year.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finalheaven*
> 
> Anyone know if a Design R6 is in the works to perhaps include USB Type-C? It appears that the Design R# models are released every two years and it will be two years towards the end of this year.


Fire them an email they'll probs get back to you with a hint, from what I read in here they seem pretty decent with customer service.


----------



## enkur

Just completed a loop flush and re-oriented the rads.I think this is way cleaner.

thanks for all the suggestions.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Someone did that with clear plastic to make an air ram, or ziptie the stock heatsink fans to the vrm heatsink, for me I just fitted some blocks an called it a day.


You've missed the motherboard chipset.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> You've missed the motherboard chipset.


Haha the SB wasn't worth doing as it doesn't need clocking.


----------



## New green

What are people's opinion on the best expandable aio in terms of reliability that will fit in the top of the arc mini r2?

My plan is to have the CPU and two GPU's on it not sure if one 360 rad is ideal for that.

Swiftech aio out of stock on their website and newegg. EKWB p360 says it won't fit. Not sure what else is out there that is reliable. Are the fractal kelvin aio's good? I remember reading a thread around these forums about fractal fans not working well on rads and a hardware rep confirmed it if I'm remembering correctly.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> What are people's opinion on the best expandable aio in terms of reliability that will fit in the top of the arc mini r2?
> 
> My plan is to have the CPU and two GPU's on it not sure if one 360 rad is ideal for that.
> 
> Swiftech aio out of stock on their website and newegg. EKWB p360 says it won't fit. Not sure what else is out there that is reliable. Are the fractal kelvin aio's good? I remember reading a thread around these forums about fractal fans not working well on rads and a hardware rep confirmed it if I'm remembering correctly.


I think your best bet will be the swiftech. You could probably get an ek 360 up top if you're willing to lose the 5 1/4 Bay and do some hole modding on the top. The coolstream rad just doesn't naturally fit up there due to the 'lip' running around the inside of the case.

240 will fit in the front if you use fan ducts. Works well for me. You lose the optical bays again though.


----------



## New green

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I think your best bet will be the swiftech. You could probably get an ek 360 up top if you're willing to lose the 5 1/4 Bay and do some hole modding on the top. The coolstream rad just doesn't naturally fit up there due to the 'lip' running around the inside of the case.
> 
> 240 will fit in the front if you use fan ducts. Works well for me. You lose the optical bays again though.


Oh hey its you. I was reading your posts on the ekwb aio thread and thought you said the p360 wouldn't fit. I am planning to take out the ODDs but figured the p360 was just too long because the pump and fan header is on the side. I'd love to get the p360 if it fits and just drill some mounting holes if it does fit. The user manual for it suggests getting the 360 to expand into two gpu's and use the 240 to expanding into a single gpu so wasn't looking at the p240. I guess I could just use another 240 rad in the front down the road bu figured one 360 would look cleaner and lower temps having two intakes on the front.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Oh hey its you. I was reading your posts on the ekwb aio thread and thought you said the p360 wouldn't fit. I am planning to take out the ODDs but figured the p360 was just too long because the pump and fan header is on the side. I'd love to get the p360 if it fits and just drill some mounting holes if it does fit. The user manual for it suggests getting the 360 to expand into two gpu's and use the 240 to expanding into a single gpu so wasn't looking at the p240. I guess I could just use another 240 rad in the front down the road bu figured one 360 would look cleaner and lower temps having two intakes on the front.


I might have. Not sure. I know it won't fit with the optical Bay. I'm guessing it might fit without but certainly not without drilling some new mounting holes. That damn lip running around the inside of the case screws it up.

As far as a 360 for 2 gpus and a 240 for a cpu. That seems a little overkill but I'm sure would work. I'm not sure you can do the 360 and 2 gpus without opening up and expanding it in which case you should consider a single p240 and add a 2nd straight 240 rad and possible res.

I'm gonna be working on my rig later today and I'll check measurements on the top to see how long it is. I don't think it'd be an issue without the od Bay though.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> What are people's opinion on the best expandable aio in terms of reliability that will fit in the top of the arc mini r2?
> 
> My plan is to have the CPU and two GPU's on it not sure if one 360 rad is ideal for that.
> 
> Swiftech aio out of stock on their website and newegg. EKWB p360 says it won't fit. Not sure what else is out there that is reliable. Are the fractal kelvin aio's good? I remember reading a thread around these forums about fractal fans not working well on rads and a hardware rep confirmed it if I'm remembering correctly.


With fans in general it's important to equip your rad with fans designed for that purpose. Most of our fans are high flow and work great for creating laminar flow, making them ideal for typical applications as a case fan (especially for exhaust). High flow fans do not make good radiator fans, though. High pressure is what you want for that, in which case the Venturi HP fans would be the ones to go with.


----------



## Jyve

Oh wait. I misread what you said about 2 gpus and CPUs. Reading comprehension needs work









Yeah a 360 is plenty for a cpu and 2 gpus but again you're gonna have to break it open to expand on that 2nd gpu and then you want to start thinking on straight custom or maybe dual 240mm rads. If I ever get a 2nd gpu that's my plan. Get a 2nd 240 for the top.


----------



## New green

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Oh wait. I misread what you said about 2 gpus and CPUs. Reading comprehension needs work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah a 360 is plenty for a cpu and 2 gpus but again you're gonna have to break it open to expand on that 2nd gpu and then you want to start thinking on straight custom or maybe dual 240mm rads. If I ever get a 2nd gpu that's my plan. Get a 2nd 240 for the top.


Cool thx for that. I was looking at one of those ekwb kits might still consider that if it is better to expand into two gpu's than using the p360 aio. I just figured if the aio was easy to expand on it was be a more simpler install then the kits.


----------



## New green

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> With fans in general it's important to equip your rad with fans designed for that purpose. Most of our fans are high flow and work great for creating laminar flow, making them ideal for typical applications as a case fan (especially for exhaust). High flow fans do not make good radiator fans, though. High pressure is what you want for that, in which case the Venturi HP fans would be the ones to go with.


Ahh ok cool good to know. I tried looking for that post but on break at work and ran outta time.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Cool thx for that. I was looking at one of those ekwb kits might still consider that if it is better to expand into two gpu's than using the p360 aio. I just figured if the aio was easy to expand on it was be a more simpler install then the kits.


It's only easier if you're able to take advantage of the quick disconnects. Prefilled blocks and plug and play. If for any reason you have to break open the loop then maybe consider going custom.

Although now that I think on it. Expanding a predator might save you a few bucks on the cost of total custom.


----------



## New green

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> It's only easier if you're able to take advantage of the quick disconnects. Prefilled blocks and plug and play. If for any reason you have to break open the loop then maybe consider going custom.
> 
> Although now that I think on it. Expanding a predator might save you a few bucks on the cost of total custom.


Ya a full ekwb custom after shipping I was looking at over $500. The p360 after shipping is a little over $300.

The p360 is 415mm long and the outside depth of the arc mini r2 is 484mm. It seems like it should fit but the ekwb website says it is not compatible, not sure if that simply means I will need to drill mounting holes into the top of the case. If you could tell me what the internal depth is on the top of the mini r2 that would be much appreciated since I haven't yet found those dimensions.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *New green*
> 
> Ya a full ekwb custom after shipping I was looking at over $500. The p360 after shipping is a little over $300.
> 
> The p360 is 415mm long and the outside depth of the arc mini r2 is 484mm. It seems like it should fit but the ekwb website says it is not compatible, not sure if that simply means I will need to drill mounting holes into the top of the case. If you could tell me what the internal depth is on the top of the mini r2 that would be much appreciated since I haven't yet found those dimensions.


Haven't gotten around to working on the rig just yet but from those numbers it looks good. I'm sure it says not compatible because of the mounting holes as well as the od Bay.


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> If they are both slim rads I think you can, but don't take my word for it... I know a few people on OCN have done it... I just don't remember specifics.


I did it! No issiue. Only thinng is that you have to remove the most right top fan to when you need to work on the fron rad.
And the fans on the pic have been swaped out to corsairs new ml120 pros


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalefish*
> 
> I did it! No issiue. Only thinng is that you have to remove the most right top fan to when you need to work on the fron rad.
> And the fans on the pic have been swaped out to corsairs new ml120 pros


Should put them on the front of the rad behind the front bezel. This will give you more space and they will perform as intended.


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Should put them on the front of the rad behind the front bezel. This will give you more space and they will perform as intended.


Yeah i already did










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







But the thing is that i still had to remove the top right fan to swap out the old fans to the ml120.
There wasnt enough clearence to push the front rad back so that i could remove/install the new fans.


----------



## Remmes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalefish*
> 
> Yeah i already did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the thing is that i still had to remove the top right fan to swap out the old fans to the ml120.
> There wasnt enough clearence to push the front rad back so that i could remove/install the new fans.


I think he meant to put the fans on the "outside" of the case, and leave the dust filter off, this way you'll have better clearance, however no dust filter..



But it looks like you don't necessarily need to do that in order to get it all to fit, it's just a slight inconvenience when you have to take the fans off/put them on.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Should put them on the front of the rad behind the front bezel. This will give you more space and they will perform as intended.


Good looking rig. Just want to say yay for another ek zmt tube user!


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmes*
> 
> I think he meant to put the fans on the "outside" of the case, and leave the dust filter off, this way you'll have better clearance, however no dust filter..
> 
> But it looks like you don't necessarily need to do that in order to get it all to fit, it's just a slight inconvenience when you have to take the fans off/put them on.


Oh, sorry haha! I read "behind the front vezel" as behind the bracket. But i rather have them like that to have more airflow between the front and the fans.
I dont change my fans that often so 4 more screws dont bother me


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Good looking rig. Just want to say yay for another ek zmt tube user!


Yeah!














I like the black industrial look.


----------



## Remmes

I agree, it worked out great the way you have it.


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmes*
> 
> I agree, it worked out great the way you have it.


'

Thanks! Well i could have gone ridgid and used the wall bracket to mount the pump. But as of now i dont have a side panel window so i dont care that mutch.
I love the define S but i think the WC bug has bitten me and im looking for bigger case.

Problem is that there arnt any that i like.

900d is feels to plastic and bad quality for the price.
Caselabs is to expensive due to shipping to Sweden is 1/6 of the case cost.
Thermaltakes "Caselab" cases has gotten so bad reviews that it feels like a joke.

Im looking for a case with a pedistol but there isnt any








Haf stacker they dont sell any more that i can get hold of here in Sweden.

I actualy was close to buying a new define S just to get the side panel window.
Fractals "spare parts" page never has the sidepanel in stock.


----------



## Remmes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalefish*
> 
> '
> 
> I actualy was close to buying a new define S just to get the side panel window.
> Fractals "spare parts" page never has the sidepanel in stock.


Email them, ask when they'll have them, and when they do see if they could message you.

Their customer support team is quite helpful.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalefish*
> 
> '
> 
> Thanks! Well i could have gone ridgid and used the wall bracket to mount the pump. But as of now i dont have a side panel window so i dont care that mutch.
> I love the define S but i think the WC bug has bitten me and im looking for bigger case.
> 
> Problem is that there arnt any that i like.
> 
> 900d is feels to plastic and bad quality for the price.
> Caselabs is to expensive due to shipping to Sweden is 1/6 of the case cost.
> Thermaltakes "Caselab" cases has gotten so bad reviews that it feels like a joke.
> 
> Im looking for a case with a pedistol but there isnt any
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haf stacker they dont sell any more that i can get hold of here in Sweden.
> 
> I actualy was close to buying a new define S just to get the side panel window.
> Fractals "spare parts" page never has the sidepanel in stock.


I'm pretty sure the r4 and/or r5 windows fit as well. Might double check that though.

I love my arc mini but after catching that same wc bug I'm looking at bigger cases as well. Not too much bigger though. Mostly I'm wanting a tempered glass side panel. Phanteks evolv tg edition is the one I'm eyeing. Also the new cooler Master maker has a tg available or soon available. Though NOT glass I'm looking at the corsair 400c. Big plexi window,atx support,psu shroud, all at slightly larger than my mini.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Do wish I could order a windowed panel for my Nano S


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Do wish I could order a windowed panel for my Nano S


Huh. I thought they had windows. Guess not. Surprising really.

*edit*

There are windowed side panels. Says so on their site. I'm guessing you bought one without and now just want a panel?


----------



## Jyve




----------



## nzphil

I'm in







Define R5 i7 6800k Workstation


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Huh. I thought they had windows. Guess not. Surprising really.
> 
> *edit*
> 
> There are windowed side panels. Says so on their site. I'm guessing you bought one without and now just want a panel?


Yeah I got one of the first ones shipped to the MC I work at and it was a windowless, and of course the next week we got a shipment of the windowed ones. so all I need is the windowed panel now


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the r4 and/or r5 windows fit as well. Might double check that though.
> 
> I love my arc mini but after catching that same wc bug I'm looking at bigger cases as well. Not too much bigger though. Mostly I'm wanting a tempered glass side panel. Phanteks evolv tg edition is the one I'm eyeing. Also the new cooler Master maker has a tg available or soon available. Though NOT glass I'm looking at the corsair 400c. Big plexi window,atx support,psu shroud, all at slightly larger than my mini.


the two panels are the exact same except the way they mount








So maby more cheap to just leave it to a metal worker something something that can make the cut and install the window.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalefish*
> 
> the two panels are the exact same except the way they mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So maby more cheap to just leave it to a metal worker something something that can make the cut and install the window.


You should get in touch with FD customer service and see what they might be able to do for you. This goes for @darthbaggins as well.

FD CS is some of the best I've ever dealt with.


----------



## mypickaxe

I thought I would post this, since it kind of makes me laugh. I am waiting for a 120mm rad and separate res, but I hooked my EK Predator 240 up to my R9 Nano with the QDCs, after a little swaperoo from the Supremacy MX CPU block (currently removed from the loop.)

I'm thinking of also adding the Asus Maximus VIII Impact monoblock from EK, which is part of the reason why I didn't want to complete the loop at this time.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I thought I would post this, since it kind of makes me laugh. I am waiting for a 120mm rad and separate res, but I hooked my EK Predator 240 up to my R9 Nano with the QDCs, after a little swaperoo from the Supremacy MX CPU block (currently removed from the loop.)
> 
> I'm thinking of also adding the Asus Maximus VIII Impact monoblock from EK, which is part of the reason why I didn't want to complete the loop at this time.


Tight fit for that zmt tubing. Specially with those qdc. Looks alright though.


----------



## Crazy_Clocker

Copped a Define S, what am I in for?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I thought I would post this, since it kind of makes me laugh. I am waiting for a 120mm rad and separate res, but I hooked my EK Predator 240 up to my R9 Nano with the QDCs, after a little swaperoo from the Supremacy MX CPU block (currently removed from the loop.)
> 
> I'm thinking of also adding the Asus Maximus VIII Impact monoblock from EK, which is part of the reason why I didn't want to complete the loop at this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tight fit for that zmt tubing. Specially with those qdc. Looks alright though.
Click to expand...

That was cut to fit, originally much more tubing out of the box. I plan to replace it all with smaller diameter 10/13 when I expand the loop.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I thought I would post this, since it kind of makes me laugh. I am waiting for a 120mm rad and separate res, but I hooked my EK Predator 240 up to my R9 Nano with the QDCs, after a little swaperoo from the Supremacy MX CPU block (currently removed from the loop.)
> 
> I'm thinking of also adding the Asus Maximus VIII Impact monoblock from EK, which is part of the reason why I didn't want to complete the loop at this time.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why not cut the tubing down in size a little so it looks neater?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I thought I would post this, since it kind of makes me laugh. I am waiting for a 120mm rad and separate res, but I hooked my EK Predator 240 up to my R9 Nano with the QDCs, after a little swaperoo from the Supremacy MX CPU block (currently removed from the loop.)
> 
> I'm thinking of also adding the Asus Maximus VIII Impact monoblock from EK, which is part of the reason why I didn't want to complete the loop at this time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not cut the tubing down in size a little so it looks neater?
Click to expand...

As I mentioned, this is temporary. I thought it was a funny pic, not a show piece, which is why I am just leaving it as-is until I expand the loop.

The original fit was much too cramped. Couldn't work with it. This works.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> As I mentioned, this is temporary. I thought it was a funny pic, not a show piece, which is why I am just leaving it as-is until I expand the loop.


Oh...


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> As I mentioned, this is temporary. I thought it was a funny pic, not a show piece, which is why I am just leaving it as-is until I expand the loop.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh...
Click to expand...

ok


----------



## ZippitZippo

Just wondering if anyone has gotten the R5E Edition 10 to fit into the Define S/R5?


----------



## Exner

*Anyone have pics of an R4 white with black side panels and one of em with a window ?* Can't buy a white one here in sweden, and fractal design charge way to much and have to long waiting time so iam getting a black one, and a friend of mine have one extra black R4 side panel.

Here is mine, always open to new improvements so hit me!











The hardware : | Fractal Design S4 White | Asus z77-v pro | Intel i5 [email protected] | Noctua NH-D15 | Corsair ax860i ( have an old one in the pic cuz my ax860i caught on fire, will have a new one 2morrow) |4x Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm | Nvidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Phantom GLH | Corsair Vengeance [email protected] 12GB| Asus Xonar Essence STX | Beyerdynamic DT 880 | 2x Intel 128GB SSD raid 0 | 1 TB WD |


----------



## JackCY

It will work and if you don't like the colors you can repaint it. Seeing how it looks is simple, take any photo and change the colors on it. Never seen such photo here from anyone so I guess no one has that color scheme here.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy_Clocker*
> 
> Copped a Define S, what am I in for?


An epic case. Love mine.


----------



## Lodbroke

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exner*
> 
> *Anyone have pics of an R4 white with black side panels and one of em with a window ?* Can't buy a white one here in sweden, and fractal design charge way to much and have to long waiting time so iam getting a black one, and a friend of mine have one extra black R4 side panel.
> 
> Here is mine, always open to new improvements so hit me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hardware : | Fractal Design S4 White | Asus z77-v pro | Intel i5 [email protected] | Noctua NH-D15 | Corsair ax860i ( have an old one in the pic cuz my ax860i caught on fire, will have a new one 2morrow) |4x Noctua NF-A14 PWM 140mm | Nvidia Geforce GTX 780 TI Phantom GLH | Corsair Vengeance [email protected] 12GB| Asus Xonar Essence STX | Beyerdynamic DT 880 | 2x Intel 128GB SSD raid 0 | 1 TB WD |






Have no White R4 with Black side panels but a black Core 1300 with white side panels (And front).
FD do not even make any white Core-series cases.


The panels and the front parts was painted 1 coat of primer+2 coats of white+1 clear coat. The ODD's tray cover was painted afterward, the primer wasn't dry enough and the white paint got discolored.
This was my first time ever painting and practice make perfection. There are lots of first-timer mistakes and a few, bite mites and mosquitoes stuck in the paint (painted outdoor).

Would be nice to see a White R4 with silver side panels or maybe with yellow ones









Edit: Replaced the original pic with one with less shadows.
Edit2:


----------



## Exner

@JackCY Yeah i haven't seen anyone yet, yeah i can photoshop a picture but there is something special to see it not photoshoped!









@Lodbroke Looks good for the first time painting! A tip, when u grind use smoother and smoother paper, and make sure there is no dust left, clean it well. And when you paint, have patience, let every layer dry well! but, practice makes perfect!









I finaly got my new psu! wanna have sleeved cables so bad, any1 have a good guide for sleeveing axi series ?


----------



## jbyron

The parts were from a budget leftoverish parts build, I originally had them in a Core V1 case but I wanted something that could sit next to my consoles in the TV stand.

Node 202
H97i-Plus
I5-4590
Noctua NH-L9i
16GB FuryX
Samsung EVO850 250gb
2.5" 500gb drive from my PS4
EVGA GTX 770


----------



## austinmrs

Do you guys recommend the Fractal Define S?

I think i will buy one.. WIll my h110i gt fit fine on top? Then i want to put 3 x 140 ventirui hf on front, and 1 on back..

I heard people talking about this case creating air pocket on the gpui zone.. is that true?


----------



## mypickaxe

Node 202 next to a Nano S for reference. These are both great Mini-ITX cases for a specific use case, not necessarily the same use case:


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Do you guys recommend the Fractal Define S?
> 
> I think i will buy one.. WIll my h110i gt fit fine on top? Then i want to put 3 x 140 ventirui hf on front, and 1 on back..
> 
> I heard people talking about this case creating air pocket on the gpui zone.. is that true?


Go for it!!!

Never heard of that air pocket problem lol.
With 3 fans on the front i don't see how that could happen

In the end of this month I'll get one for me !!!!
It will have 3 120mm fans on the front, 1 140mm on the back and a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360mm on the top. I think it will be a wonderful case for my setup!


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Go for it!!!
> 
> Never heard of that air pocket problem lol.
> With 3 fans on the front i don't see how that could happen
> 
> In the end of this month I'll get one for me !!!!
> It will have 3 120mm fans on the front, 1 140mm on the back and a Black Ice Nemesis GTS 360mm on the top. I think it will be a wonderful case for my setup!


Why not 3 140 on the front?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Do you guys recommend the Fractal Define S?
> 
> I think i will buy one..


Got some good news then--it just went on sale today for the cheapest it's been in maybe a year:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352054&cm_re=define_s-_-11-352-054-_-Product


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Why not 3 140 on the front?


Because I already bought them before going for the Define S hehe

They will be 3 be quiet Shadow Wings SW1 120mm.

As to 140mm vs 120mm in the front of the Define S, I prefer 120mm because the 140m fan will have to blow through the metal that suports the 120mm on the sides. The 120mm will blow freely. This is just me speculating


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Got some good news then--it just went on sale today for the cheapest it's been in maybe a year:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352054&cm_re=define_s-_-11-352-054-_-Product


That price drop will be world wide?

And do you have plans for a bigger Define S style case?


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Got some good news then--it just went on sale today for the cheapest it's been in maybe a year:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352054&cm_re=define_s-_-11-352-054-_-Product


Only on newegg though :/

Im from Europe


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Because I already bought them before going for the Define S hehe
> 
> They will be 3 be quiet Shadow Wings SW1 120mm.
> 
> As to 140mm vs 120mm in the front of the Define S, I prefer 120mm because the 140m fan will have to blow through the metal that suports the 120mm on the sides. The 120mm will blow freely. This is just me speculating


is this true? will it cause more noise if i use 140mm?

140mm should still move more air, right? I will stick 3 venturi hf 14, r maybe 3 nf a14 flx...

What do you guys recommend?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> is this true? will it cause more noise if i use 140mm?
> 
> 140mm should still move more air, right? I will stick 3 venturi hf 14, r maybe 3 nf a14 flx...
> 
> What do you guys recommend?


No. It shouldn't cause any real appreciable increase in noise, nor will it block any significant airflow. 140s are just fine.

My next fans will be the new corsairs. Ml120s or maybe the hd120s.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalefish*
> 
> I did it! No issiue. Only thinng is that you have to remove the most right top fan to when you need to work on the fron rad.
> And the fans on the pic have been swaped out to corsairs new ml120 pros


Curious, how do you manage all of those fans?

Could someone weigh in, please?

I'm planning to assemble a WC system like this one but possibly with a 280mm rad in front instead.

Thanks.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> That price drop will be world wide?
> 
> And do you have plans for a bigger Define S style case?


Far as I know it's just a Newegg deal, so it's valid wherever Newegg sales would usually be I suppose. I didn't get a memo on it or anything, I just shop around every morning to see what all's going on and I see the same info you guys do for the most part.

As for question No. 2, I'm not able to comment on any potential products or potential revisions of existing products until products have been officially announced.

So I guess my official answer is ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well I'm sure some major retailers will price match NewEgg


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Only on newegg though :/
> 
> Im from Europe


Ah. That does make my advice a bit less helpful. Being from the NA office I don't see much of the EU retail scene, but if I do happen to run across an interesting deal for your region I can let you know. Where do you typically like to shop?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Ah. That does make my advice a bit less helpful. Being from the NA office I don't see much of the EU retail scene, but if I do happen to run across an interesting deal for your region I can let you know. Where do you typically like to shop?


Speaking of the NA FD side of things, are there replacement panels available for purchase for then Nano S. I'm wanting a Windowed panel since mine was the silent/non windowed version, since when I got my case was the first shipment to the MicroCenter in Duluth, GA (which only had non windowed).

Currently having to run with no panel at the moment:


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Ah. That does make my advice a bit less helpful. Being from the NA office I don't see much of the EU retail scene, but if I do happen to run across an interesting deal for your region I can let you know. Where do you typically like to shop?


Anywhere in Europe really, amazon.de, amazon.co.uk, and others shop.. As well as the shipping is less than 20$ im fine


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> is this true? will it cause more noise if i use 140mm?
> 
> 140mm should still move more air, right? I will stick 3 venturi hf 14, r maybe 3 nf a14 flx...
> 
> What do you guys recommend?


I'd go with three 140mm fans on the front. as far as which one, read up the fan thread (or ask here) for the best recommendation.

I have the three intake Fractal GP-14 fans on my R5 ( two front, one bottom) and they are pretty quiet and move a fair amount of air.

There may be quieter or better but at the time I bought these I couldn't find the ones being suggested or they were marked a ridiculous amount.


----------



## Dreamliner

I wish someone did a comparison between the Fractal R1 140mm fan. (I think it's R1, I know fractal came out with a new fan version since I got mine) and the Noctua. My PC is quiet, but I can still hear it if the room is silent. I wish it was dead silent. Not sure I'd spend the hundreds to replace my 5 140mm fans (not all spin, all spin slow...under 700rpm), but it'd be nice to know what the audible difference would be.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Speaking of the NA FD side of things, are there replacement panels available for purchase for then Nano S. I'm wanting a Windowed panel since mine was the silent/non windowed version, since when I got my case was the first shipment to the MicroCenter in Duluth, GA (which only had non windowed).
> 
> Currently having to run with no panel at the moment:


Not at this time, unfortunately, but since you mention it I am actually in the process of going around the web to collect requests and inquiries like this to try and build a sort of petition for it. I've already included your post from the other day plus others on this thread (or at least those I could find, 1461 pages is a lot of reading material), however if anyone else here is interested in buying parts or has been in the past then by all means make it known and I'll include your voices too.

This is just something I'm doing on my own, so I can't guarantee it'll go anywhere but I see plenty of people asking to buy parts on a regular basis so I figure it's worth a try.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Not at this time, unfortunately, but since you mention it I am actually in the process of going around the web to collect requests and inquiries like this to try and build a sort of petition for it. I've already included your post from the other day plus others on this thread (or at least those I could find, 1461 pages is a lot of reading material), however if anyone else here is interested in buying parts or has been in the past then by all means make it known and I'll include your voices too.
> 
> This is just something I'm doing on my own, so I can't guarantee it'll go anywhere but I see plenty of people asking to buy parts on a regular basis so I figure it's worth a try.


Definitely would like another place to buy parts from. Puget Systems has some spare parts, but not much when compared to fractal-design-shop.de.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I wish someone did a comparison between the Fractal R1 140mm fan. (I think it's R1, I know fractal came out with a new fan version since I got mine) and the Noctua. My PC is quiet, but I can still hear it if the room is silent. I wish it was dead silent. Not sure I'd spend the hundreds to replace my 5 140mm fans (not all spin, all spin slow...under 700rpm), but it'd be nice to know what the audible difference would be.


I don't have much info on-hand for the 140mm version, but I do have at least partial specs for the 120mm R1 to compare alongside the R2 and R3 versions if that helps:

Silent Series 120mm
RPM: 1000
Noise (dBA): 15
Max Airflow (CFM): 38.3
Max Airflow (m3/h): 65
Max Pressure (mm H2O): Unknown

Silent Series R2 120mm
RPM: 1200
Noise (dBA): 15
Max Airflow (CFM): 40.6
Max Airflow (m3/h): 69.0
Max Pressure (mm H2O): 1.07

Silent Series R3 120mm
RPM: 1200
Noise (dBA): 20.5
Max Airflow (CFM): 46.6
Max Airflow (m3/h): 79.25
Max Pressure (mm H2O): 0.78


----------



## Darkstar757

Does anyone know if two of the follow will fit in the Design S with a MSI X99A SLI Plus?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual


----------



## Dreamliner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I don't have much info on-hand for the 140mm version, but I do have at least partial specs for the 120mm R1 to compare alongside the R2 and R3 versions if that helps:
> 
> Model RPM Noise (dBA) Max Airflow (CFM) Max Airflow (m3/h) Max pressure (mm H2O)
> Silent Series 120mm 1000 15 38.3 65
> Silent Series R2 120mm 1200 15 40.6 1.07
> Silent Series R3 120mm 1200 20.5 46.6 79.25 0.78


Did you take these measurements or are these Fractal published stats?

One of these days I'd love to get a CFM meter and test a variety of fans at various CFM and record the decibel levels.


----------



## Fractal Design

Published stats


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Published stats


Do you happen to know?

Does anyone know if two of the follow will fit in the Design S with a MSI X99A SLI Plus?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> Do you happen to know?
> 
> Does anyone know if two of the follow will fit in the Design S with a MSI X99A SLI Plus?
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual


It might be a bit thick for a top installation but it should fit fine in the front.


----------



## Darkstar757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> It might be a bit thick for a top installation but it should fit fine in the front.


My problem is I already have 140mm fans and I need to get something on the top as a rad. Any 140mm rad recommendations.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> My problem is I already have 140mm fans and I need to get something on the top as a rad. Any 140mm rad recommendations.


Thickness is only a concern for 140, 280 and 420mm rads in the top, so if you go with a 120, 240 or 360mm rad you can pretty much have your pick. If you do decide to use a 140/280/420mm though, you just need to make sure the total thickness including fans is under 55mm. There are slim profile fans out there as little as 13-15mm thick which can give you a bit of extra breathing room, but with a standard 140x140x25mm fan your rad would need to be no more than 30mm thick to avoid conflicts with the motherboard/RAM.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Not at this time, unfortunately, but since you mention it I am actually in the process of going around the web to collect requests and inquiries like this to try and build a sort of petition for it. I've already included your post from the other day plus others on this thread (or at least those I could find, 1461 pages is a lot of reading material), however if anyone else here is interested in buying parts or has been in the past then by all means make it known and I'll include your voices too.
> 
> This is just something I'm doing on my own, so I can't guarantee it'll go anywhere but I see plenty of people asking to buy parts on a regular basis so I figure it's worth a try.


Either way if it goes ahead or not, thanks. Only side panel I found was a full acrylic panel from MNPCTech which I might go for until I can get an official FD panel.


----------



## Badwrench

Dialed in the cables a bit on my Nano S.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Either way if it goes ahead or not, thanks. Only side panel I found was a full acrylic panel from MNPCTech which I might go for until I can get an official FD panel.


Just saw that panel there. I wish they had something like that pre made for the arc mini. I'd snatched it up in a heart beat.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Dialed in the cables a bit on my Nano S.


Can't beat the hidden art that is cable management, great job man!

Only have a poor image of mine of the front not the back due to rushing it.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Thickness is only a concern for 140, 280 and 420mm rads in the top, so if you go with a 120, 240 or 360mm rad you can pretty much have your pick. If you do decide to use a 140/280/420mm though, you just need to make sure the total thickness including fans is under 55mm. There are slim profile fans out there as little as 13-15mm thick which can give you a bit of extra breathing room, but with a standard 140x140x25mm fan your rad would need to be no more than 30mm thick to avoid conflicts with the motherboard/RAM.


This is true, the 420mm rad I used up top on my define s causes issues with the waterblock fitting on my VRM, I doubt the stock blocks that came with the board would allow me to use a 420mm up top. I believe this to be an oversight when Fractal designed to case in all honesty, a half inch wider on the case would remove all these issues as well as it being a half inch longer.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can't beat the hidden art that is cable management, great job man!
> 
> Only have a poor image of mine of the front not the back due to rushing it.


There's no way I show the other side of my mobo tray. I have a boat load of molex connectors for the leds. It's a train wreck back there. Front looks good though.


----------



## Ithanul

You sure don't want to see mine in my Haf X case, and that yet with the extra fans installed yet.









Hopefully I can keep the Define S a bit better with the cables, but since I am trying to smack three GPUs in there that maybe hard to keep the cables under control.


----------



## Erothlor

Hello,

Is it normal for Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition Window case front middle stripe LED to blink non stop? It really bothers at night, my room is much more like a disco than living room. The LED itself is white, but the blue blinking in it... It doesn't matter is there HDD (I have only SSD drives) activity or not, it always blinks.

Maybe pins connected in wrong slots. I dunno. I'm not very good at hardware.

Anyone else having exact same case? Are yours blinking too or the LED lighting is still?


----------



## Jyve

That sounds like hard drive activity. Otherwise no idea.

My cable mess behind the mobo tray is compounded with the sleeved extensions.

Between the extensions and the 5 molex connections (thank God for splitters) it's a struggle to get that back panel on. Has me concerned about the phanteks evolv tempered glass edition that I've been eyeing. That back panel is glass as well (why?).


----------



## Exner

Getting a black plate on the other side soon.
Need some input, should i paint something black? Perhaps the holes for the fans at the top? any other ideas?









// Exner


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> There's no way I show the other side of my mobo tray. I have a boat load of molex connectors for the leds. It's a train wreck back there. Front looks good though.


Lmao, same here front/main bay of case looks nice and clean but once that rear panel comes off (even though it's not too bad) it's a mess. I hate having to take the rear panel off on my Nano S and avoid it if possible lol.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erothlor*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Is it normal for Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition Window case front middle stripe LED to blink non stop? It really bothers at night, my room is much more like a disco than living room. The LED itself is white, but the blue blinking in it... It doesn't matter is there HDD (I have only SSD drives) activity or not, it always blinks.
> 
> Maybe pins connected in wrong slots. I dunno. I'm not very good at hardware.
> 
> Anyone else having exact same case? Are yours blinking too or the LED lighting is still?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erothlor*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Is it normal for Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition Window case front middle stripe LED to blink non stop? It really bothers at night, my room is much more like a disco than living room. The LED itself is white, but the blue blinking in it... It doesn't matter is there HDD (I have only SSD drives) activity or not, it always blinks.
> 
> Maybe pins connected in wrong slots. I dunno. I'm not very good at hardware.
> 
> Anyone else having exact same case? Are yours blinking too or the LED lighting is still?


The power light on the R5 does have a steady blink when the PC's in standby, so that's probably what you're seeing. I'm not sure off the top of my head whether it still does it in hibernate, but it definitely does in sleep mode. Some motherboards have an option in the bios to disable this behavior though, so you might check there. Only other thing I know to do would be to power off the PC when you go to bed. Either that or unplug the power LED completely, though I can see how that might not be the ideal way to go about it.


----------



## Erothlor

Well, I talking about that stripe with LED below the power button, not the power button itself and it's light. I checked some videos online and I see that lighting is steady without any blinking.


----------



## Erothlor

I just played with cables a bit, and now it's a lot better. Instead of white LED with non stop blue blinking I now have steady blue LED.


----------



## Casterina

I have the Fractal Design Define Mini case and I don't use the side panel or top vent fans so I was wondering do you guys leave the noise absorbing foam block on the side panel and top vent?


----------



## toyz72

i been looking at the nano s for a while now. more than likely it will be my next itx case. i myself dont want the side window,but if anyone is interested...i found this over at mnpctech....

http://mnpctech.com/fractal-design-define-s/nano-s-clear-side-panel.html

i really wish the made the snowflake top for the nano's.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Casterina*
> 
> I have the Fractal Design Define Mini case and I don't use the side panel or top vent fans so I was wondering do you guys leave the noise absorbing foam block on the side panel and top vent?


Of course, leave it there to block some noise.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreamliner*
> 
> I wish someone did a comparison between the Fractal R1 140mm fan. (I think it's R1, I know fractal came out with a new fan version since I got mine) and the Noctua. My PC is quiet, but I can still hear it if the room is silent. I wish it was dead silent. Not sure I'd spend the hundreds to replace my 5 140mm fans (not all spin, all spin slow...under 700rpm), but it'd be nice to know what the audible difference would be.


Thermalbench.com has tested a lot of 140mm fans, on the same rad, over the full range of RPM, and the all important noise vs airflow graphs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkstar757*
> 
> My problem is I already have 140mm fans and I need to get something on the top as a rad. Any 140mm rad recommendations.


The recommendation would be a bit dependent on what you're after. I'm running fans at 450-650rpm and very happy with my hardwarelabs gts xflows (420 top +280 bottom) in the Define S.

Here's a thin radiator test.. it's not about that rad but it's being compard against about 10 other slim rads.. that may give you a starting point:
bitspower-leviathan-slim-360mm-radiator-review


----------



## nagle3092

Anyone know the dimensions/measurements of the R5 front screws? Looking to order some longer ones but not sure what the threading is.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Guessing no replacement parts are available for sale through FD on the Nano S, looking for a front panel to have as a back-up (thinking of modding my current front panel)


----------



## Aqualoon

I finally put my components into my new case. Went with the Define S and Aerocool DS Red Fans (140mm and 120mm). I however can't finish it until the fan hub I bought gets here on Tuesday, thought I had enough fan splitters...I was wrong.

For fan sizes/locations...

140 mm fans - 3 on top, 1 on the back and 1 on the bottom. Because of the size of my PSU the 140 mm fan on the bottom doesn't fit exactly right, couldn't get screws in 3 of the holes, had to use zip ties. Even still, was able to get the bottom fan filter on without issue.

120 mm fans - All 4 are on the front in a push/pull on my H100i. I can fit another 120 mm fan under the radiator which I will eventually be adding. I wasn't sure if I could fit it with the radiator so I didn't buy an additional fan from the get go.

I bought a memory cooler (for looks mostly) but was unable to fit it on there due to the tubing of the H100i. It would be nice if they were a little bit longer.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erothlor*
> 
> Well, I talking about that stripe with LED below the power button, not the power button itself and it's light. I checked some videos online and I see that lighting is steady without any blinking.


It should be steady when the PC is powered on and blinking when it's in standby. Is that not what it's doing?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Guessing no replacement parts are available for sale through FD on the Nano S, looking for a front panel to have as a back-up (thinking of modding my current front panel)


I'll keep pushing for it, but you're correct, currently still a negative on the part sales unfortunately.


----------



## Erothlor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> It should be steady when the PC is powered on and blinking when it's in standby. Is that not what it's doing?


It is blinking when powered on. Don't use standby, so don't know how about it.
Anyway, I keep HDD activity LED unplugged now, and it's much much better, no frusturating blinking, just steady white color.


----------



## D13mass

Hi ! I have Fractal Design R4 but left door without window.
How I can make a window with glass (is it a real ? ) or where I can buy Define R4 Left Side Panel Black Window


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Hi ! I have Fractal Design R4 but left door without window.
> How I can make a window with glass (is it a real ? ) or where I can buy Define R4 Left Side Panel Black Window


Watching this video is probably your best bet.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Watching this video is probably your best bet.


Oh, thanks a lot! Probably I have plan for weekend


----------



## JackCY

Shops and FD should sell the windowed side panel. Unless you are showing off your case in a showroom somewhere modding it to glass is not worth the effort as most of the time you will look at your monitor not stare into a case.


----------



## mtrapuzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Shops and FD should sell the windowed side panel. Unless you are showing off your case in a showroom somewhere modding it to glass is not worth the effort as most of the time you will look at your monitor not stare into a case.


Haha I would say those times are about equal for me


----------



## Duality92

Hey guys!

You can check out my thread! It's sponsored by Fractal Design!









http://www.overclock.net/t/1608793/sponsored-silent-one-most-silent-build-ocn-has-ever-seen


----------



## lostsupper

I'm really impressed with this Nano S. Amazing cable management options for such a little case.



CPU: 6700k delidded
Cooler: Noctua NH-C14s
Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Impact
PSU: Seasonic 650 Prime Titanium
RAM: G.Skill 3600 Cas15
GPU: Asus Strix 1080 OC
SSD: Intel 750 400GB u.2, Samsung 850 evo 1TB
Cablemod custom cables and a bunch of Noctua fans


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtrapuzz*
> 
> Haha I would say those times are about equal for me


Haha. Same here. I do spend an unnatural amount of time just looking at my rig. Creepy even.


----------



## jvidia

The Strix really fits tight hehe

Any pictures of the Strix 1070/1080 on a Define S?


----------



## aerial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> I'm really impressed with this Nano S. Amazing cable management options for such a little case.


Almost 27l volume for nano S. You can say many things about this case, but I wouldn't call it little for itx








Btw great psu choice.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Nano S is ,imo, perfect sized case for its format. Just enough room for everything that would be needed for now and years to come.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> I'm really impressed with this Nano S. Amazing cable management options for such a little case.
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: 6700k delidded
> Cooler: Noctua NH-C14s
> Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Impact
> PSU: Seasonic 650 Prime Titanium
> RAM: G.Skill 3600 Cas15
> GPU: Asus Strix 1080 OC
> SSD: Intel 750 400GB u.2, Samsung 850 evo 1TB
> Cablemod custom cables and a bunch of Noctua fans


That's one cleeeaaaannn build. I love it.


----------



## paskowitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> I'm really impressed with this Nano S. Amazing cable management options for such a little case.
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: 6700k delidded
> Cooler: Noctua NH-C14s
> Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII Impact
> PSU: Seasonic 650 Prime Titanium
> RAM: G.Skill 3600 Cas15
> GPU: Asus Strix 1080 OC
> SSD: Intel 750 400GB u.2, Samsung 850 evo 1TB
> Cablemod custom cables and a bunch of Noctua fans


I BELIEVE that is one nice build!


----------



## Dimensive

Fractal Design Define R5 is $79.99 after rebate today: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352056


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Fractal Design Define R5 is $79.99 after rebate today: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352056


Fractal Design: Can we get such reasonable good prices in EU as well?


----------



## Duality92

I got my Define R4, white window in 2012 for $84 CDN shipped, it was a hell of a deal.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Fractal Design: Can we get such reasonable good prices in EU as well?


I wish!

I'm looking for the Define S with Window and here in my country it costs > 100€


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> I wish!
> 
> I'm looking for the Define S with Window and here in my country it costs > 100€


MF.de
Alza.de

For me it's about 92 EUR when converted to EUR.
The R5 is even more expensive but a better case IMHO.


----------



## jvidia

For custom wc the Define S is a better case.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> MF.de
> Alza.de
> 
> For me it's about 92 EUR when converted to EUR.
> The R5 is even more expensive but a better case IMHO.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> For custom wc the Define S is a better case.


They're the same case.... only difference is the motherboard tray.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They're the same case.... only difference is the motherboard tray.


Nope.... I think that on the R5 the 5,1/4 bays wont come off and it also doesn't have the mounting holes and brackets for the pump/reservoirs ?

Am i correct?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Nope.... I think that on the R5 the 5,1/4 bays wont come off and it also doesn't have the mounting holes and brackets for the pump/reservoirs ?
> 
> Am i correct?


Because the motherboard tray is different, the front plate is different also but you can remove the drive bays, they're held by rivets and you can see those holes on the define s case.


----------



## Jyve

Yeah I imagine those brackets come in handy. I also think that the 5,25 Bay probably comes out with the removal of a few screws like the arc mini and midi. I could be wrong though.


----------



## jvidia

Must revise it but i almost swear that on the R5 only the HD cages have easy remove.

But besides that the ssd/hd mounting on the back od the define s is wonderful!
R5 has it also?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Must revise it but i almost swear that on the R5 only the HD cages have easy remove.
> 
> But besides that the ssd/hd mounting on the back od the define s is wonderful!
> R5 has it also?


Not sure, but like I said, the only reason the define s has the rear mounted drives is because the motherboard tray is different, it's pretty much the same case.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Not sure, but like I said, the only reason the define s has the rear mounted drives is because the motherboard tray is different, it's pretty much the same case.


I think it is the way arround.... The mb tray is diferent because of the rear drive mount.
The Define S was released to respond to the people that wanted to remove all of the R5 interior to do a custom wc build.

For me the R5 is for aircooling or at most AIO WC kits.


----------



## jvidia

I was wrong... The drive bays can be removed.

But for a custom wc build the define S has the pump and reservoir place for it.
On the R5 we will have mod where to place it.

Another deal breaker to me is that the R5 can only have on the front 2 fans.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> They're the same case.... only difference is the motherboard tray.


And the bottom on S is just like R4 etc.

S is a mix up of R4 and R5 and custom S parts.


----------



## lombardsoup

Went with the Node 804. This is my first experience with Fractal Design, and thus far it has been excellent. Had a faulty header on the front panel I/O, Fractal sent a replacement for free. Why can't customer support with other companies be this painless?

That aside, I love this thing. Still waiting on a few parts, but the finished build will be comprised of these:

CPU: 6600K
Cooling: Cryorig H5 Ultimate, barely fit by one cm
MB: ASUS Maximus VIII GENE
Mem: G.SKILL TridentZ DDR4 3200 16GB
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W
Video card: GTX 1080, haven't made my mind up on which specific model
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500gb


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lombardsoup*
> 
> Went with the Node 804. This is my first experience with Fractal Design, and thus far it has been excellent. Had a faulty header on the front panel I/O, Fractal sent a replacement for free. Why can't customer support with other companies be this painless?
> 
> That aside, I love this thing. Still waiting on a few parts, but the finished build will be comprised of these:
> 
> CPU: 6600K
> Cooling: Cryorig H5 Ultimate, barely fit by one cm
> MB: ASUS Maximus VIII GENE
> Mem: G.SKILL TridentZ DDR4 3200 16GB
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W
> Video card: GTX 1080, haven't made my mind up on which specific model
> Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500gb


Congrats







The Node 804 is a great case.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lombardsoup*
> 
> Went with the Node 804. This is my first experience with Fractal Design, and thus far it has been excellent. Had a faulty header on the front panel I/O, Fractal sent a replacement for free. Why can't customer support with other companies be this painless?
> 
> That aside, I love this thing. Still waiting on a few parts, but the finished build will be comprised of these:
> 
> CPU: 6600K
> Cooling: Cryorig H5 Ultimate, barely fit by one cm
> MB: ASUS Maximus VIII GENE
> Mem: G.SKILL TridentZ DDR4 3200 16GB
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750W
> Video card: GTX 1080, haven't made my mind up on which specific model
> Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500gb
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice and clean build. I've considered the 804 a few times, but haven't pulled the trigger...yet.


----------



## Boil

Been looking hard at the Define Nano S as of late&#8230;

I have REALLY been lusting after some of the 'boutique SFF cases' that have been in the works lately, but kinda worried about temps, so looking towards this undecidedly non-SFF chassis&#8230;

A few questions for any that may know or have an opinion on&#8230;

1 - The cable pass-thru (NON-grommeted) that is BELOW the MB location (I have heard somewhere; from the manufacturer or in this thread, I cannot recall) that is is intended for audio cables&#8230; Assuming front panel audio cables, would these be threaded between the MB I/O region & below the GPU&#8230;?

2 - Thoughts towards passing the cable from the U.2 port on the Asus M8I MB that would connect with an Intel 2.5" 750 Series NVMe SSD thru that same opening&#8230;? Would hope the cable provided with the drive would be long enough to reach the 2.5"/3.5" SSD/HDD mount located in the 'deep end' of the 'backstage' cable management / drive mounting section of the chassis&#8230;

3 - While a full-blown hard tubing custom loop would be awesome; a 240 Predator & pre-filled 1070 water block (both with QDCs of course) would be WAY easier to assemble & half the price of a custom loop&#8230; So, will the 240 Predator suffice for an Intel i5 6600K & EVGA GTX 1070 SC Gaming ACX 3.0; with absolutely zero overclocking planned&#8230;?

4 - I REALLY want to keep the sound to a minimum, so I would be getting the NON-windowed version&#8230; Also due to wanting minimal noise, I would leave the ModuVent panel with the sound dampening material place in place on top, meaning NO fans exhausting out the top&#8230; The only exhaust would be the rear 120mm fan (which I would replace with an EK Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm/PWM) fan&#8230; Obviously it would be a positive pressure situation, but thoughts towards the dual 120mm fan intake (airflow of same somewhat restricted due to the radiator) with a single 120mm fan exhaust (with no restrictions of its airflow)&#8230;?

As an aside, I will be using a Corsair SF600 SFX PSU in this chassis; mainly because I already have one on hand & the adapter plate is coming in next week (for use with a temp gaming rig while I accumulate the bits & pieces for the Define Nano S)&#8230;

Thanks for any advise or tips in regards to my questions on this chassis&#8230;!


----------



## jvidia

Can anyone show me the Define S with a Strix 1060/1070/1080 installed? Please...

Need to now if i can mount the EK XRes 140 between it and the front ofthe define S.

Thank you.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Can anyone show me the Define S with a Strix 1060/1070/1080 installed? Please...
> 
> Need to now if i can mount the EK XRes 140 between it and the front ofthe define S.
> 
> Thank you.


It will fit fine, I've not failed to fit a res between an 970 and the front with fans or a radiator on the front.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It will fit fine, I've not failed to fit a res between an 970 and the front with fans or a radiator on the front.


Any pics?
Is the 970 strix the same length of the 10x0 strix?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> Any pics?
> Is the 970 strix the same length of the 10x0 strix?


You will have to confim that yourself but sure here.




Both images are Define S cases both have 2 different 970s, one is an MSI the other an EVGA.


----------



## jvidia

The Strix 10x0 have 30cm of length.

Those in the pics are shorter.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> The Strix 10x0 have 30cm of length.
> 
> Those in the pics are shorter.


The strix you're looking at is 6cm or 59mm longer, still don't think it's earth shattering. If you're watercooling the GPU don't get a strix with 9xx cards strix cards didn't overclock well and I think I saw the same for the 10x0 cards in the 1080 club. If you're also having issues with size then try find a smaller card?


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, I stay away from STRIX. Considering ASUS hard lock the 9XX series to 1.212V. Which is super annoying when you know it could go higher if they had not done that.







I have a 980STRIX....blasting annoying I can't up the volts with software. But may go the route of hard modding the blasted card so I can have some fun with it.







It can go on stock volts to 1420-1430MHz on air, but those blasted fans are super annoying as hell. Sound like an angry bee in my folder which is saying something.

Not sure if they have hard lock the 10XX series STRIX since I have yet to bother looking at the new cards.


----------



## lostsupper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boil*
> 
> Been looking hard at the Define Nano S as of late&#8230;
> 
> I have REALLY been lusting after some of the 'boutique SFF cases' that have been in the works lately, but kinda worried about temps, so looking towards this undecidedly non-SFF chassis&#8230;
> 
> A few questions for any that may know or have an opinion on&#8230;
> 
> 1 - The cable pass-thru (NON-grommeted) that is BELOW the MB location (I have heard somewhere; from the manufacturer or in this thread, I cannot recall) that is is intended for audio cables&#8230; Assuming front panel audio cables, would these be threaded between the MB I/O region & below the GPU&#8230;?
> 
> 2 - Thoughts towards passing the cable from the U.2 port on the Asus M8I MB that would connect with an Intel 2.5" 750 Series NVMe SSD thru that same opening&#8230;? Would hope the cable provided with the drive would be long enough to reach the 2.5"/3.5" SSD/HDD mount located in the 'deep end' of the 'backstage' cable management / drive mounting section of the chassis&#8230;
> 
> 3 - While a full-blown hard tubing custom loop would be awesome; a 240 Predator & pre-filled 1070 water block (both with QDCs of course) would be WAY easier to assemble & half the price of a custom loop&#8230; So, will the 240 Predator suffice for an Intel i5 6600K & EVGA GTX 1070 SC Gaming ACX 3.0; with absolutely zero overclocking planned&#8230;?
> 
> 4 - I REALLY want to keep the sound to a minimum, so I would be getting the NON-windowed version&#8230; Also due to wanting minimal noise, I would leave the ModuVent panel with the sound dampening material place in place on top, meaning NO fans exhausting out the top&#8230; The only exhaust would be the rear 120mm fan (which I would replace with an EK Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm/PWM) fan&#8230; Obviously it would be a positive pressure situation, but thoughts towards the dual 120mm fan intake (airflow of same somewhat restricted due to the radiator) with a single 120mm fan exhaust (with no restrictions of its airflow)&#8230;?
> 
> As an aside, I will be using a Corsair SF600 SFX PSU in this chassis; mainly because I already have one on hand & the adapter plate is coming in next week (for use with a temp gaming rig while I accumulate the bits & pieces for the Define Nano S)&#8230;
> 
> Thanks for any advise or tips in regards to my questions on this chassis&#8230;!


The u.2 cable is much harder to route than it would seem. It's long enough to reach the ssd mounts behind the mobo, but it was a tight fit with the other cables behind the tray. My u.2 port was on the lower left portion of my mobo near the bottom of the I/O. I ran the cable up the mobo and through the grommet at the top, then back in the next grommet and mounted the 750 in the ceiling. Look at my build a couple of pages back.

The front panel accommodates two 140mm fans, so depending on your rad mount intake shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Boil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> The u.2 cable is much harder to route than it would seem. It's long enough to reach the ssd mounts behind the mobo, but it was a tight fit with the other cables behind the tray. My u.2 port was on the lower left portion of my mobo near the bottom of the I/O. I ran the cable up the mobo and through the grommet at the top, then back in the next grommet and mounted the 750 in the ceiling. Look at my build a couple of pages back.
> 
> The front panel accommodates two 140mm fans, so depending on your rad mount intake shouldn't be a problem.


I (barely) see the 750 up there now&#8230;!

I am now wondering more towards just bringing the U.2 cable straight across the MB, thru the lower of the two cable grommets to the right of the MB and reaching the drive mount that is on the backside of the reservoir mounting area&#8230;

As for the fans on the front, I would be using the ones that come with the Predator, so no worries about intake&#8230;

I am more concerned with using a single 120mm fan for exhaust out the rear of the chassis; I want to keep the ModuVent panel in place for maximum sound deadening&#8230;

I am also toying with the idea of (still in a closed chassis; two fans in & one fan out set-up) going with a 240 rad up front pushing in & a 120 rad in the back pushing out; rather than just the Predator for the WC portion of the show&#8230;

Since, in the above scenario, the exhaust fan would also be part of the cooling loop, I was thinking of using this:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-splitter-4-fan-pwm-extended



&#8230;for all three fans & the pump; allowing a single connection to the MB via the CPU fan header&#8230;

Meaning, the CPU fan header would control the entire loop AND any chassis venting (as the rear exhaust has the single 120 rad/fan mounted there)&#8230;


----------



## lostsupper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boil*
> 
> Been looking hard at the Define Nano S as of late&#8230;
> 
> I have REALLY been lusting after some of the 'boutique SFF cases' that have been in the works lately, but kinda worried about temps, so looking towards this undecidedly non-SFF chassis&#8230;
> 
> A few questions for any that may know or have an opinion on&#8230;
> 
> 1 - The cable pass-thru (NON-grommeted) that is BELOW the MB location (I have heard somewhere; from the manufacturer or in this thread, I cannot recall) that is is intended for audio cables&#8230; Assuming front panel audio cables, would these be threaded between the MB I/O region & below the GPU&#8230;?
> 
> 2 - Thoughts towards passing the cable from the U.2 port on the Asus M8I MB that would connect with an Intel 2.5" 750 Series NVMe SSD thru that same opening&#8230;? Would hope the cable provided with the drive would be long enough to reach the 2.5"/3.5" SSD/HDD mount located in the 'deep end' of the 'backstage' cable management / drive mounting section of the chassis&#8230;
> 
> 3 - While a full-blown hard tubing custom loop would be awesome; a 240 Predator & pre-filled 1070 water block (both with QDCs of course) would be WAY easier to assemble & half the price of a custom loop&#8230; So, will the 240 Predator suffice for an Intel i5 6600K & EVGA GTX 1070 SC Gaming ACX 3.0; with absolutely zero overclocking planned&#8230;?
> 
> 4 - I REALLY want to keep the sound to a minimum, so I would be getting the NON-windowed version&#8230; Also due to wanting minimal noise, I would leave the ModuVent panel with the sound dampening material place in place on top, meaning NO fans exhausting out the top&#8230; The only exhaust would be the rear 120mm fan (which I would replace with an EK Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm/PWM) fan&#8230; Obviously it would be a positive pressure situation, but thoughts towards the dual 120mm fan intake (airflow of same somewhat restricted due to the radiator) with a single 120mm fan exhaust (with no restrictions of its airflow)&#8230;?
> 
> As an aside, I will be using a Corsair SF600 SFX PSU in this chassis; mainly because I already have one on hand & the adapter plate is coming in next week (for use with a temp gaming rig while I accumulate the bits & pieces for the Define Nano S)&#8230;
> 
> Thanks for any advise or tips in regards to my questions on this chassis&#8230;!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boil*
> 
> I (barely) see the 750 up there now&#8230;!
> 
> I am now wondering more towards just bringing the U.2 cable straight across the MB, thru the lower of the two cable grommets to the right of the MB and reaching the drive mount that is on the backside of the reservoir mounting area&#8230;
> 
> As for the fans on the front, I would be using the ones that come with the Predator, so no worries about intake&#8230;
> 
> I am more concerned with using a single 120mm fan for exhaust out the rear of the chassis; I want to keep the ModuVent panel in place for maximum sound deadening&#8230;
> 
> I am also toying with the idea of (still in a closed chassis; two fans in & one fan out set-up) going with a 240 rad up front pushing in & a 120 rad in the back pushing out; rather than just the Predator for the WC portion of the show&#8230;
> 
> Since, in the above scenario, the exhaust fan would also be part of the cooling loop, I was thinking of using this:
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-cable-splitter-4-fan-pwm-extended
> 
> 
> 
> &#8230;for all three fans & the pump; allowing a single connection to the MB via the CPU fan header&#8230;
> 
> Meaning, the CPU fan header would control the entire loop AND any chassis venting (as the rear exhaust has the single 120 rad/fan mounted there)&#8230;


Running the u.2 across the front of the mobo would work, but it's pretty thick. On my board it wouldn't fit between the RAM and GPU. I'm not sure how well pwm control works with splitters. If possible, use one header per fan. The board I used had a fan extension card that works really well.


----------



## Boil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> Running the u.2 across the front of the mobo would work, but it's pretty thick. On my board it wouldn't fit between the RAM and GPU. I'm not sure how well pwm control works with splitters. If possible, use one header per fan. The board I used had a fan extension card that works really well.


Yeah, I am looking at the same board I believe, the Asus Maximus VIII Impact mini-ITX motherboard&#8230;

I know it has the breakout fan controller board (three 4-pin PWM headers & three 2-pin tamp sensor headers), but was trying to think of an easy-peasy method to connect the fans & pump, without having to go in and set a bunch of fan curves & such for the fan controller board&#8230;

Worst case, I try the 4-way and then end up reverting to the fan controller breakout board&#8230;

As for the U.2 cable, I guess it would have to end up draped OVER the RAM, or I could hope it is long enough to route up to the top of the MB, thru one of the top grommets, and then still have enough length to reach the SSD mounted on the 2.5"/3.5" drive mount towards the front of the chassis&#8230;

I could mount the SSD upside down if needed&#8230; (assuming there would be enough space when doing so for the actual connection to the drive to fit properly)

Why Asus decided to place the actual U.2 connector where they did is a mystery; I guess it was really the only space available for it&#8230;

They should have placed it with the SATA connectors, and had only two SATA connector&#8230;? That way it would still have to drape across the RAM, but there would be more workable length to the cable&#8230;

I don't suppose you could measure the length of that cable could you&#8230;? If not, no problem&#8230;


----------



## lostsupper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boil*
> 
> Yeah, I am looking at the same board I believe, the Asus Maximus VIII Impact mini-ITX motherboard&#8230;
> 
> I know it has the breakout fan controller board (three 4-pin PWM headers & three 2-pin tamp sensor headers), but was trying to think of an easy-peasy method to connect the fans & pump, without having to go in and set a bunch of fan curves & such for the fan controller board&#8230;
> 
> Worst case, I try the 4-way and then end up reverting to the fan controller breakout board&#8230;
> 
> As for the U.2 cable, I guess it would have to end up draped OVER the RAM, or I could hope it is long enough to route up to the top of the MB, thru one of the top grommets, and then still have enough length to reach the SSD mounted on the 2.5"/3.5" drive mount towards the front of the chassis&#8230;
> 
> Why Asus decided to place the actual U.2 connector where they did is a mystery; I guess it was really the only space available for it&#8230;
> 
> They should have placed it with the SATA connectors, and had only two SATA connector&#8230;? That way it would still have to drape across the RAM, but there would be more workable length to the cable&#8230;


Since you're using using the same board, I strongly encourage you to mount 750 in the ceiling and hang the fan board on the 3.5" drive tray. Asus fan control software is easy and using the board made routing fan cables easier.





Here you can see how the u.2 cable runs:


----------



## Boil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> Since you're using using the same board, I strongly encourage you to mount 750 in the ceiling and hang the fan board on the 3.5" drive tray. Asus fan control software is easy and using the board made routing fan cables easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see how the u.2 cable runs:


Any shots of the entire drives / cable management area of the chassis&#8230;? Wondering how much extra U.2 cable is back there&#8230;

I am strongly leaning towards a custom loop, but not flashy with hard tubing & day-glo fluids and all that&#8230;

More of a murdered out blacker than black kinda thing, function over flash&#8230;

Quick rundown of major components:

EK-FC1070 GTX full-cover water block (Acetal & Nickel)
EK-FC1070 GTX backplate (Black)
EK-FB Asus M8I monoblock (Acetal & Nickel)
EK-RAM Monarch X2 water block (Acetal & Nickel)
EK-RAM Monarch heat sink modules (Black)
EK-RES X3 110 reservoir
EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM w/pump (Acetal)
EK Coolstream PE 240 radiator
EK Coolstream SE 120 radiator
EK-Vardar F4-120ER fans (Black)
EK-HFB 10mm barb fittings
EK-Tube clamps (Black)
EK-Tube ZMT tubing (Black, 10mm ID, 16mm OD)

There is an assortment of 45 & 90 degree fittings as well, to get the tubing runs nice & neat&#8230;

I know I have stated this will be in the NON-windowed version of this chassis, but I will know if the tubing runs & cable management is sloppy&#8230;!

I will be using a fill port thru the top of the chassis (hidden under the ModuVent until needed), and this will be right where you have your 750 Series SSD, so I am hoping to get the U.2 cable to reach the drive mount (where you have your fan controller break-out board mounted)&#8230; I can mount the fan board on the 2.5" SSD mount directly behind the MB&#8230;

Loop would be:

D5 pump > GPU > 120mm rad > CPU > RAM > 240mm rad > reservoir > back to the pump&#8230;

Fill port up top feeding into top of reservoir; T-splitter coming out of D5 pump, splitting to GPU & to ball valve / drain port assembly&#8230;

Obviously I will need to remove the bottom dust filter before draining the system&#8230;!


----------



## lostsupper

I'll take photos tomorrow afternoon. There's very little slack in the u.2. It goes up, out the first grommet, in the second, and a little slack before the drive. You're going to have a hard time putting the fan board on the 2.5" mount.The screw spacing is very wide on the board.


----------



## Boil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> I'll take photos tomorrow afternoon. There's very little slack in the u.2. It goes up, out the first grommet, in the second, and a little slack before the drive. You're going to have a hard time putting the fan board on the 2.5" mount.The screw spacing is very wide on the board.


I can always drill the appropriate holes for it&#8230;

I am already resigned to drilling holes to properly mount the D5 pump to the provided pump bracket&#8230; There are plenty of holes in that bracket for various assorted pumps, just none matching the pattern used by the EK D5 Revo pump holder&#8230;

And I have to drill holes in both the top of the chassis & the bottom of the chassis for the fill & drain ports&#8230;

So I guess the entirety of the 'modding' of the chassis would be "I drilled eight holes"&#8230;

I wish Intel would hurry up and come out with their alternative SKU model(s) of the 750 series 2.5" SSD&#8230;

There is supposed to be a version that has a M.2 connector on the end of the provided cable, rather than the current U.2 connector&#8230;

This would really simplify things, as the cable would plug into the M.2 slot on the back of the MB (NOT the Asus M8I, obviously, I would have to go with a different MB; and, sadly, a 'regular' CPU water block, as opposed to the sexy as hell mono block &#8230;!) and would have plenty of slack to reach the forward mounting point&#8230;!

Thanks for all the advice & tips so far&#8230;!


----------



## Ithanul

Heck, nothing wrong with going water cool build for function. I actually like seeing those. Kind of the direction I may go with my folder in the Define S, but of course I am using rigid tubing since I still have a lot left over and barbs for it. I just don't bother with the color crap. Don't want the headache of cleaning that out of a loop. I'm already lazy as is.







Well, more slow to get around to doing stuff. It is bad I still have a 3930k on a RIVBE just sitting around not running atm. Think when the 5960x and x99 mobo show up get my slow butt and just do both my rigs at the same time with part changes.

That fan board looks sweet though. Where can one find that? Could use that when I add the three more eLoops to my main rig to finally go push/pull on the top radiator. Probably will need it when the 5960x goes in. Heard those put some serious heat out when OC.


----------



## lostsupper

The fan board came with the mobo.


----------



## jaggafeen

just finished building this with gigabte z170x gaming 7 motherboard, i7 6700k @ 4.8ghz, R9 Fury nitro, samsung 950 pro m.2 drive and 4 more ssd drives all mounted at the rear and a corsair 280mm h110 cooler with 4 fans and 4 shrouds in push pull configuration. The shrouds made a big improvement to noise levels.
Has a filtered 140mm intake side fan fitted to the door, another 140mm fan at the bottom as intake and the water cooling rad is set up as an intake with 4 push/pull corsair 140mm mag lev fans and shrouds on both sides also. 2 exhaust fans one at the top and one at the rear. very pleased with this case and i would thoroughly recommend.


----------



## Dimensive

Fractal Design announced some new case fans today: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/fractal-design-announces-new-dynamic-x2-fans


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaggafeen*
> 
> just finished building this with gigabte z170x gaming 7 motherboard, i7 6700k @ 4.8ghz, R9 Fury nitro, samsung 950 pro m.2 drive and 4 more ssd drives all mounted at the rear and a corsair 280mm h110 cooler with 4 fans and 4 shrouds in push pull configuration. The shrouds made a big improvement to noise levels.
> Has a filtered 140mm intake side fan fitted to the door, another 140mm fan at the bottom as intake and the water cooling rad is set up as an intake also. 2 exhaust fans one at the top and one at the rear. very pleased with this case and i would thoroughly reccomend.


Cool a TX850, not seen one of those in a long time, I have the TX750v2.


----------



## Ithanul

Hmmm, I know I have my first PSU around here somewhere. Its a corsair TX as well. Can't remember the watts off the top of my head. I usually use it to test fans or other parts before putting them in my case.


----------



## Jyve

I had a tx650m. Was a pretty decent psu actually.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> The Strix really fits tight hehe
> 
> Any pictures of the Strix 1070/1080 on a Define S?


----------



## Boil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> I'll take photos tomorrow afternoon. There's very little slack in the u.2. It goes up, out the first grommet, in the second, and a little slack before the drive. You're going to have a hard time putting the fan board on the 2.5" mount.The screw spacing is very wide on the board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boil*
> 
> I wish Intel would hurry up and come out with their alternative SKU model(s) of the 750 series 2.5" SSD&#8230;
> 
> There is supposed to be a version that has a M.2 connector on the end of the provided cable, rather than the current U.2 connector&#8230;
> 
> This would really simplify things, as the cable would plug into the M.2 slot on the back of the MB (NOT the Asus M8I, obviously, I would have to go with a different MB; and, sadly, a 'regular' CPU water block, as opposed to the sexy as hell mono block &#8230;!) and would have plenty of slack to reach the forward mounting point&#8230;!


Well, The alt SKU Intel 750 Series NVMe 2.5" SSDs have arrived&#8230;

Newell has them listed, I am expecting prices to drop down by the time I am ready to purchase later this year&#8230;

But there is some very clear pics of the cable, evening with it stretched out straight; appears to have a good 18"+ of cable alone (not counting the connectors on each end), so more than enough to reach comfortably from the M.2 slot to the single forward drive mount&#8230;


----------



## JackCY

The hell is that hackjob by Intel?


----------



## lostsupper

That M.2 adapter is a mess. If the board has room for a M.2 slot, its U.2 jack will be horizontal anyway.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Gotta remember not every board has a u.2 connection since it's a newer connection (to the general public) that M.2 adapter would work well on my mITX board since it's on the backside and out of sight, to bad I'm selling off my z97 mITX board/CPU/memory


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Gotta remember not every board has a u.2 connection since it's a newer connection (to the general public) that M.2 adapter would work well on my mITX board since it's on the backside and out of sight, to bad I'm selling off my z97 mITX board/CPU/memory


Ooo, I did not know you where selling off a mITX board.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Well selling as a package deal, time to retire the 4790k and get the 5930k back up and running


----------



## Boil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> That M.2 adapter is a mess. If the board has room for a M.2 slot, its U.2 jack will be horizontal anyway.


This is not a M.2 > U.2 adapter; it is a new cable from Intel&#8230;

Rather than a U.2 connector on the MB end, there is a M.2 connector&#8230;

Take a closer look at the pics, it is a single cable, NOT a adapter that turns the M.2 into a U.2 'slot'&#8230;


----------



## lostsupper

Right you are. It's still a weird design. If a board has room for an M.2 slot, why use it for a cable end instead of a gumstick drive?

I guess it's the only choice if someone has an M.2, doesn't have a u.2 port, but stilll wants to use a 750. It just seems like such a limited use case.


----------



## Boil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostsupper*
> 
> Right you are. It's still a weird design. If a board has room for an M.2 slot, why use it for a cable end instead of a gumstick drive?
> 
> I guess it's the only choice if someone has an M.2, doesn't have a u.2 port, but stilll wants to use a 750. It just seems like such a limited use case.


Well, it definitely opens up more mITX boards to be able to use the Intel 750 series 2.5" NVMe SSDs (only current mITX board able to support same with the U.2 is the Asus M8I)&#8230;

And it also allows one to place the SSD away from the MB, and away from a situation where a 'standard' M.2 gumstick SSD might be sandwiched between the MB & GPU (see the recent boutique chassis' that utilize such an arraignment of the components (Dan A4-SFX, Firewolfy MI-6 & Hutzy XS, to name a few)&#8230; This might help with preventing any thermal throttling from higher temps in these more confined chassis'&#8230;


----------



## D13mass

Guys, I need advise.

I have a Fractal Define R4 and I think about liquid (water) cooling.
I thought install 2 radiators for 280mm (one on up and one front of basket with HDDs (basket I can move to 50mm from front panel)) OR install one 280mm radiator and 2 for 140 mm, pump and reservoir which install in place for DVD drive.

What is the better choice will be for my configuration?

Thank you.
I hope my english is understandable.


----------



## qwerty drive

I just installed a SSD in my Fractal r5 fitting it behind the motherboard tray, only problem is i noticed it gets quite warm there idling away at 33 degrees while my WD black is at 29..Is it safe to leave it there or should i stick it in the hdd tray so the front fans can blow over it


----------



## Glottis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> I just installed a SSD in my Fractal r5 fitting it behind the motherboard tray, only problem is i noticed it gets quite warm there idling away at 33 degrees while my WD black is at 29..Is it safe to leave it there or should i stick it in the hdd tray so the front fans can blow over it


you are right to question this. idling temp isn't exactly a problem, but load temp is. i don't know why tech media brainwashed people into thinking SSDs don't need cooling, but that couldn't be further from truth. i would suggest putting your ssd in front hdd cage where it can get proper airflow to minimize thermal throttling, if you want best performance.

also i don't know why case makers put ssd trays behind mobo or other tight spaces without any airflow. that just continues misinformation trend that SSDs don't require cooling, which is false.

SSDs get really hot really fast under load!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> you are right to question this. idling temp isn't exactly a problem, but load temp is. i don't know why tech media brainwashed people into thinking SSDs don't need cooling, but that couldn't be further from truth. i would suggest putting your ssd in front hdd cage where it can get proper airflow to minimize thermal throttling, if you want best performance.
> 
> also i don't know why case makers put ssd trays behind mobo or other tight spaces without any airflow. that just continues misinformation trend that SSDs don't require cooling, which is false.
> 
> SSDs get really hot really fast under load!


All I have is an SSD in my rig and I game etc with it, it has never slowed and when I benched it it got warm but never slowed down. SSDs have no moving parts and I can tell you that a hard drive back there will get a lot warmer.

There is airflow to the rear of the motherboard in my Define S due to the amount of intake fans I have, it's impossible for my front fans and PSU to remove all that air so none of it cools my SSD etc.


----------



## Glottis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> All I have is an SSD in my rig and I game etc with it, it has never slowed and when I benched it it got warm but never slowed down. SSDs have no moving parts and I can tell you that a hard drive back there will get a lot warmer.
> 
> There is airflow to the rear of the motherboard in my Define S due to the amount of intake fans I have, it's impossible for my front fans and PSU to remove all that air so none of it cools my SSD etc.


forget moving parts. cpu doesn't have moving parts either, nor does gpu, but they produce heat. in ssd it's controller that heats up and also flash memory, but not so much. the faster ssd the quicker and more it heats up. just because it didn't heat up for you while you ran 30 second benchmark doesn't mean much.

i don't care if you don't cool your ssd, it's up to you what you do with your system, but don't go around telling other people that ssds don't heat up, because that's just false.


----------



## Ithanul

Darn, that is one toasty SSD stick. Yeah, I don't like the idea of any electronic without air flow of some sort. Reason I may make a custom mount for my SSD to put in the Define S when I move parts over to it. Thinking of setting it a little off the floor behind the radiator I plan to use. That way it gets some air flow over it.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erothlor*
> 
> It is blinking when powered on. Don't use standby, so don't know how about it.
> Anyway, I keep HDD activity LED unplugged now, and it's much much better, no frusturating blinking, just steady white color.


Oh so it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Guys, I need advise.
> 
> I have a Fractal Define R4 and I think about liquid (water) cooling.
> I thought install 2 radiators for 280mm (one on up and one front of basket with HDDs (basket I can move to 50mm from front panel)) OR install one 280mm radiator and 2 for 140 mm, pump and reservoir which install in place for DVD drive.
> 
> What is the better choice will be for my configuration?
> 
> Thank you.
> I hope my english is understandable.


280 mm rads are unfortunately a no-go in the R4, so 120/140/240 mm are the options you'd be looking at. A 240 mm will fit in the top position with no conflicts for most configurations. The front doesn't technically support water cooling, but people have installed up to 240 mm rads by disregarding two of the screw holes. You can do a single 120/140 mm rad in the rear position though.


----------



## JackCY

If you need to test rad sizes just get the dimensions of the rad you want to buy, cut it out of cardboard and test it. Don't forget to check for height issues including fans.
Unless you want to mod the case your options will be limited with R4 a little.


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Oh so it
> 280 mm rads are unfortunately a no-go in the R4, so 120/140/240 mm are the options you'd be looking at. A 240 mm will fit in the top position with no conflicts for most configurations. The front doesn't technically support water cooling, but people have installed up to 240 mm rads by disregarding two of the screw holes. You can do a single 120/140 mm rad in the rear position though.










thank you for quick answer!
Probably I will install 2*240mm (thickness 60mm and 45mm (bigger in front panel on front of basket with disks).


----------



## Pandemie

Spoiler: Create image













Spoiler: Result

















Spoiler: System specs



CPU: Intel Core i7 - 4960X Extreme Edition
CPU/Video Fan: MO-RA3 420 PRO Black
Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Formula
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD32GX3M4A1866C9
Video: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 ROG Strix OC
Audio: Asus Xonar Phoebus
SSD: 512Gb SSD Samsung 850 Pro Series
SSD: 2Tb SSD Samsung 850 Pro Series
CDD: LG BP50NB40
PSU: 1000W Seasonic Platinum SS-1000XP
Case: Fractal Design Define S Window Black
Monitor: 27" BenQ XL2720T
Keyboard: Corsair Gaming K70 Rapidfire
Mouse: Zowie ZA11
Gamepad: Microsoft Xbox One Elite Controller
Web Cam: Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920
Router: Asus RT-AC68U
Headset: Beyerdynamic MMX 300 Black
Acoustic: Edifier Studio 8 R2800
UPS: 1000ВА APC Smart-UPS 1000
OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64bit


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandemie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Create image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: System specs
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7 - 4960X Extreme Edition
> CPU/Video Fan: MO-RA3 420 PRO Black
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Formula
> Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD32GX3M4A1866C9
> Video: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 ROG Strix OC
> Audio: Asus Xonar Phoebus
> SSD: 512Gb SSD Samsung 850 Pro Series
> SSD: 2Tb SSD Samsung 850 Pro Series
> CDD: LG BP50NB40
> PSU: 1000W Seasonic Platinum SS-1000XP
> Case: Fractal Design Define S Window Black
> Monitor: 27" BenQ XL2720T
> Keyboard: Corsair Gaming K70 Rapidfire
> Mouse: Zowie ZA11
> Gamepad: Microsoft Xbox One Elite Controller
> Web Cam: Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920
> Router: Asus RT-AC68U
> Headset: Beyerdynamic MMX 300 Black
> Acoustic: Edifier Studio 8 R2800
> UPS: 1000ВА APC Smart-UPS 1000
> OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64bit


Mortal kombat? Looks amazing, I need to get an air brush and start playing with stuff like this.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> forget moving parts. cpu doesn't have moving parts either, nor does gpu, but they produce heat. in ssd it's controller that heats up and also flash memory, but not so much. the faster ssd the quicker and more it heats up. just because it didn't heat up for you while you ran 30 second benchmark doesn't mean much.
> 
> i don't care if you don't cool your ssd, it's up to you what you do with your system, but don't go around telling other people that ssds don't heat up, because that's just false.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Excuse me but that isn't what I said at all, SSDs do get warm that's a fact and I never disputed that, I did however say that while in heavy use my SSD never slowed down nor did it over heat because there is airflow to the SSD.

So if you're going to pick a fight with someone on the internet at least have common courtesy to read what they said, you're creating your own words there and they certainly ain't mine.


----------



## jologskyblues

One other good thing about mounting the SSD in the drive cage is that not only does it get airflow, I only need one SATA power cable for both the SSD and the HDD simplifying cable management.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jologskyblues*
> 
> One other good thing about mounting the SSD in the drive cage is that not only does it get airflow, I only need one SATA power cable for both the SSD and the HDD simplifying cable management.


The mounts behind the motherboard in the define S allow me to daisy chain 2 ssds as they're close enough together so that's not really an issue to be fair.


----------



## Duality92

Granted the club [Official] status


----------



## jvidia

I'm going to get my Define S with Window tomorrow ?


----------



## jologskyblues

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The mounts behind the motherboard in the define S allow me to daisy chain 2 ssds as they're close enough together so that's not really an issue to be fair.


But you can't mount a 3.5 inch HDD behind the motherboard tray like in my case, right?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jologskyblues*
> 
> But you can't mount a 3.5 inch HDD behind the motherboard tray like in my case, right?


Can mount 3 where the reservoir mounts that's why the motherboard tray curves in at that point.

So you can fit 5 SSDs or 2 SSDs and 3 HDDs.


----------



## Dimensive

Case: Fractal Design Node 202
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
CPU: Intel i5-4670K
Cooler: Prolimatech Samuel 17
RAM: 8GB G.SKILL Ares Series DDR3 2400MHz
GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 (Black Edition)
PSU: Corsair SF450
SSD: 60GB Corsair Force LS
HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandemie*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Create image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Result
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: System specs
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: Intel Core i7 - 4960X Extreme Edition
> CPU/Video Fan: MO-RA3 420 PRO Black
> Motherboard: Asus Rampage IV Formula
> Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum CMD32GX3M4A1866C9
> Video: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 ROG Strix OC
> Audio: Asus Xonar Phoebus
> SSD: 512Gb SSD Samsung 850 Pro Series
> SSD: 2Tb SSD Samsung 850 Pro Series
> CDD: LG BP50NB40
> PSU: 1000W Seasonic Platinum SS-1000XP
> Case: Fractal Design Define S Window Black
> Monitor: 27" BenQ XL2720T
> Keyboard: Corsair Gaming K70 Rapidfire
> Mouse: Zowie ZA11
> Gamepad: Microsoft Xbox One Elite Controller
> Web Cam: Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920
> Router: Asus RT-AC68U
> Headset: Beyerdynamic MMX 300 Black
> Acoustic: Edifier Studio 8 R2800
> UPS: 1000ВА APC Smart-UPS 1000
> OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64bit


That is freaking awesome.


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> The Strix really fits tight hehe
> 
> Any pictures of the Strix 1070/1080 on a Define S?


Bit late with the reply but here is my 980 Strix with 55mm Rad + 25mm fans + EK X-Res DDC. The 10x0 Strix PCB is only 0.3" longer it will fit just fine in the Define S, though the back corner of the card will be touching the grommet for that cable routing hole.


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r9miner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvidia*
> 
> The Strix really fits tight hehe
> 
> Any pictures of the Strix 1070/1080 on a Define S?
> 
> 
> 
> Bit late with the reply but here is my 980 Strix with 55mm Rad + 25mm fans + EK X-Res DDC. The 10x0 Strix PCB is only 0.3" longer it will fit just fine in the Define S, though the back corner of the card will be touching the grommet for that cable routing hole.
Click to expand...

Thank you.

Funny that you post this now that I'm coming from my local store and I'm bringing the Define S home now ?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Granted the club [Official] status


Well I guess people either missed this or don't care, so let me be the first to thank you and congrats to the thread. Official is pretty cool. Surprising it took this long.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Case: Fractal Design Node 202
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
> CPU: Intel i5-4670K
> Cooler: Prolimatech Samuel 17
> RAM: 8GB G.SKILL Ares Series DDR3 2400MHz
> GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC ACX 3.0 (Black Edition)
> PSU: Corsair SF450
> SSD: 60GB Corsair Force LS
> HDD: 2TB Seagate Momentus
> OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Nice. I like it.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Nice. I like it.


Thank you.


----------



## jologskyblues

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can mount 3 where the reservoir mounts that's why the motherboard tray curves in at that point.
> 
> So you can fit 5 SSDs or 2 SSDs and 3 HDDs.


Oh, I overlooked that you're using a Define S. I'm using a Define R5 so using the drive cage for my SSDs is still the better option with regards to cable management.


----------



## ticallista

So I wanted a PSU cover and top filter







.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ticallista*
> 
> So I wanted a PSU cover and top filter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's a beautiful build! What all do you have in there?


----------



## Ithanul

Ok, where the heck can I get that filter or how can a make it?


----------



## nzphil

Those mods/addons make it look so much cleaner. Good job


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ok, where the heck can I get that filter or how can a make it?


You can buy the demcifilters and they actually filter compared the one used above which is more for aesthetics from the look of it. Dunno where it's from.


----------



## jvidia

Where can i find that top filter? Will it fit on the Define S?

It looks great!


----------



## jvidia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ticallista*
> 
> So I wanted a PSU cover and top filter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Any how to?


----------



## ticallista

Thanks all. I made the top filter. I got the idea from Phanteks cases and the filter they use is identical to the 140/120mm PVC filters you can buy on eBay.

So I went to buy a roll of this filter and then cut to size. After that, stick some magnetic strip on it and there you go, exactly the same filter as some other case makers use.

Filter
Magnetic strip

Only caution is that if the filter is wrinkled during shipping, it won't look as good. Being rolled up also means it can be hard to flatten completely.

I know a lot of people are wanting a reasonable top filter for the R5 so I wanted to share this simple mod. It doesn't filter as good as Demciflex but hey, it works for other case makers. Plus the Demciflex filter looks really tacky with the bulky glossy bezel.

The PSU cover is a bit more difficult and is a combination of laser-cut acrylic and corflute.


----------



## JackCY

How well does the magnetic strip glue to the mesh? Does it have a good strong glue?


----------



## ticallista

I personally bought the strip without adhesive and just used some basic double-sided tape from the hardware store. It sticks well because there's quite a bit of surface area on the filter. I even run the filter under the tap to clean it and it still sticks.


----------



## Benjiw

If you want some really strong double sided tape Bill Owen used some 3M 4010 Tape aka "Tape of the Gods" stuff once to stick an entire PC to a window in one of his videos.

Linky


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ticallista*
> 
> Thanks all. I made the top filter. I got the idea from Phanteks cases and the filter they use is identical to the 140/120mm PVC filters you can buy on eBay.
> 
> So I went to buy a roll of this filter and then cut to size. After that, stick some magnetic strip on it and there you go, exactly the same filter as some other case makers use.
> 
> Filter
> Magnetic strip
> 
> Only caution is that if the filter is wrinkled during shipping, it won't look as good. Being rolled up also means it can be hard to flatten completely.
> 
> I know a lot of people are wanting a reasonable top filter for the R5 so I wanted to share this simple mod. It doesn't filter as good as Demciflex but hey, it works for other case makers. Plus the Demciflex filter looks really tacky with the bulky glossy bezel.
> 
> The PSU cover is a bit more difficult and is a combination of laser-cut acrylic and corflute.


Ah, thank you.

Definitely going to do this to Define S I have. Hmmm, wonder if I can find that in white. Trying to go for a black, white, and metal theme with my rebuilld for the folder.

But agree on the Deciflex, I do have some, but they do look tacky with the gloss bezel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If you want some really strong double sided tape Bill Owen used some 3M 4010 Tape aka "Tape of the Gods" stuff once to stick an entire PC to a window in one of his videos.
> 
> Linky


Dang, I need me some tape like that. Could of used that instead of glue for the window mod I did to my Haf X side panel.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Ah, thank you.
> 
> Definitely going to do this to Define S I have. Hmmm, wonder if I can find that in white. Trying to go for a black, white, and metal theme with my rebuilld for the folder.
> 
> But agree on the Deciflex, I do have some, but they do look tacky with the gloss bezel.
> Dang, I need me some tape like that. Could of used that instead of glue for the window mod I did to my Haf X side panel.


I think that's what he uses it for? Not 100%.


----------



## TeslaHUN

My old Define S build











+be quiet noise absorber kit


----------



## hnate123

Hey i have Fractal Define R5 i wanna look at swapping my side panel for a windowed panel and i have the black case, & i have seeming to having difficultly finding one so if i could get some help finding one it would be greatly appreciated


----------



## ticallista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hnate123*
> 
> Hey i have Fractal Define R5 i wanna look at swapping my side panel for a windowed panel and i have the black case, & i have seeming to having difficultly finding one so if i could get some help finding one it would be greatly appreciated


Depends on where you live. If in US,check out Puget Systems. If rest of the world, see if Amazon UK would ship it to your country. If in New Zealand, I'm looking to sell mine


----------



## ShortySmalls

Was worried when I ordered my Define S my GPU would be to long to fit a 60mm thick rad up front with a tube res, looks like I have plenty of room with my 10.5 inch gpu. Could have even fit a Monsta rad up there at 80mm with push/pull if i wanted to push the limits.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Was worried when I ordered my Define S my GPU would be to long to fit a 60mm thick rad up front with a tube res, looks like I have plenty of room with my 10.5 inch gpu. Could have even fit a Monsta rad up there at 80mm with push/pull if i wanted to push the limits.


Very nice. I'm bleeding my loop now (Define Nano S):



EDIT:

...and done.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Barely squeezed that all in there, I need to add my 970 in my Nano S just need to snag a few fittings tomorrow while I'm at work.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Barely squeezed that all in there, I need to add my 970 in my Nano S just need to snag a few fittings tomorrow while I'm at work.


You're right, but the temps are so good, and the machine is so quiet now, I'm happy I did this.

The fact I'm using a 250mm reservoir with a Predator 240 (expanded with an extra 120mm rad) makes me smile, but is the reason I did this. As a project to show how one can expand the EK Predator series even in an ITX case. Granted it's a very water cooling friendly ITX case.

The GPU I have in there, the R9 Nano, really goes well with the Nano S. I'm truly ecstatic about this build, tbh. For a 1080p Ultra gaming rig in my game room, I could hardly do better.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*


Nice little case . You made one huge mistake. All 3 fan are intake , and u have no exhaust ,but closed roof and side panel. Hot air can only escape in pci slots , wich is very slow. After few hours your motheroard will overheat.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Nice little case . You made one huge mistake. All 3 fan are intake , and u have no exhaust ,but closed roof and side panel. Hot air can only escape in pci slots , wich is very slow. After few hours your motheroard will overheat.


Not really. The Predator 240 ships with the fans as exhaust. They are defaulting to a pull configuration.

So...the fans are blowing from back to front instead of a more traditional front to back.

Exhibit a:


----------



## TeslaHUN

Ok !
So now u have negative air pressure in your case (1intake +no filter / 2 exhaust) , good luck with dust cleaning xd


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Ok !
> So now u have negative air pressure in your case (1intake +no filter / 2 exhaust) , good luck with dust cleaning xd


It is what it is. I have a 120mm fan I have been using as top intake, but didn't install it straight away after the rebuild. Wanted to see how quiet it could be while maintaining good temps. Installing a top intake doesn't require a loop drain.

There's no top dust filter but there is a nice bottom and front (not useful in current configuration.)


----------



## TeslaHUN

"loop drain"
Lol since when rotating 3 fan require loop drain ? 2intake front radiator 1exhaust on back rad....

"But hey, nice way to try to save face. That's telling of your personality. Embarrassed to be wrong so you find a way to fault me on something else. Good job."
Sorry that i wanted to help ,make ur loop better , it wont happen again.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> "loop drain"
> Lol since when rotating 3 fan require loop drain ? 2intake front radiator 1exhaust on back rad....
> 
> "But hey, nice way to try to save face. That's telling of your personality. Embarrassed to be wrong so you find a way to fault me on something else. Good job."
> Sorry that i wanted to help ,make ur loop better , it wont happen again.


I'm pointing something out based on your "huge mistake" comment. Swapping a fan around is easy. It's not a "huge mistake." It's sitting in my game room. Not being shipped to a customer.

I'm just here to share a build, not to argue about minutia that is easy to change on the fly - yes - without draining the loop. Thanks for the comments though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> "loop drain"
> Lol since when rotating 3 fan require loop drain ? 2intake front radiator 1exhaust on back rad....
> 
> "But hey, nice way to try to save face. That's telling of your personality. Embarrassed to be wrong so you find a way to fault me on something else. Good job."
> Sorry that i wanted to help ,make ur loop better , it wont happen again.


So let's see your build now since your hammering hard on another member who did do good work, little mistakes happen all the time


----------



## TeslaHUN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So let's see your build now since your hammering hard on another member who did do good work, little mistakes happen all the time


I have new case
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14510#post_25416440
My old Fractal Define S
http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/14730#post_25491762
+my old TT Core x9
https://prohardver.hu/tema/vizhutes_topik_3/hsz_38217-38217.html
Btw i didnt hammer hard anything, i pointed on that he made mistake by fan setup....ye its my big fault that i like to help people even if they didnt ask for it.


----------



## jvidia

Why the downgrade on the box? ?


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TeslaHUN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So let's see your build now since your hammering hard on another member who did do good work, little mistakes happen all the time
> 
> 
> 
> I have new case
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/14510#post_25416440
> My old Fractal Define S
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/14730#post_25491762
> +my old TT Core x9
> https://prohardver.hu/tema/vizhutes_topik_3/hsz_38217-38217.html
> Btw i didnt hammer hard anything, i pointed on that he made mistake by fan setup....ye its my big fault that i like to help people even if they didnt ask for it.
Click to expand...

It wasn't a mistake. It was by design. Negative pressure isn't the end of the world, and you didn't even bother to ask me about a top intake fan, whether I live in a dusty region or anything, really.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> It wasn't a mistake. It was by design. Negative pressure isn't the end of the world, and you didn't even bother to ask me about a top intake fan, whether I live in a dusty region or anything, really.


Actually it can be a bad thing especially with radiators because if they get starved of air it will negatively effect your temps. It will suck in air through any crack in the case etc so it doesn't help with dust either. Hope that information can be of some use, also love the rig you well and truly shoe horned that hardware in, so tempted by a nano myself.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Actually it's best to have all rads as intakes to pull cool air in through them rather than them pulling hot air through them


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Actually it's best to have all rads as intakes to pull cool air in through them rather than them pulling hot air through them


That too! but the hot air thing has been tested several times and its a few degrees, found that in my own testing too.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Actually it's best to have all rads as intakes to pull cool air in through them rather than them pulling hot air through them


I agree its best to have your rad pulling in fresh air, but if its messing up your cases airflow to do so it doesn't make sense.

Also The hot air dumping out the back of the rad is heating up the area around your parts making them slightly warmer as well which then makes the air being dumped around them even hotter.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> I agree its best to have your rad pulling in fresh air, but if its messing up your cases airflow to do so it doesn't make sense.
> 
> Also The hot air dumping out the back of the rad is heating up the area around your parts making them slightly warmer as well which then makes the air being dumped around them even hotter.


Like what this member is describing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipmatthew*
> 
> Well, I can't tell my case temps, but if i open my case door it's noticeably hotter. My gpu and cpu temps are fine, but they're in the loop. (Although my cpu is a little hot - it has always been that way, must be due to the block?) my ssd is 38 degrees C. during normal web browsing (speedstep is off) and systin is 54 degrees c during normal use (not gaming). Should I be concerned?
> My hard drive is 47 degrees c - it's in the cd drive, right under tyhe top rad exhaust.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> It wasn't a mistake. It was by design. Negative pressure isn't the end of the world, and you didn't even bother to ask me about a top intake fan, whether I live in a dusty region or anything, really.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually it can be a bad thing especially with radiators because if they get starved of air it will negatively effect your temps. It will suck in air through any crack in the case etc so it doesn't help with dust either. Hope that information can be of some use, also love the rig you well and truly shoe horned that hardware in, so tempted by a nano myself.
Click to expand...

Understood. All that's shown in pics is the air flowing through the back into the case and out the front. I've removed the front filter since all the air is pushing out anyway. Temps during gaming don't go above 50 degrees on the GPU and hover between 47-54 on the four cores of the i5.

At any rate, what the other member was pointing out was a barely visible shot of the top being closed up and he thought the fans were pointing towards each other (in fact they weren't.)

By simply taking the top panel off and installing a 120 or 140mm fan (preferably a 140mm, which I also have) I can move back to "positive pressure" territory. The only issue is, the top does not have a dust filter either, and by drawing in from the top, it's just giving available dust a quicker route into the case.

I do appreciate the concerns, however. I have a Core X9 with all the radiator fans (5 X 120mm) pointing into the case, a 120mm front intake and a couple of 140mm exhaust fans. I still find dust in that one, but it's such an open case from the bottom, it's bound to show up either way. At least the top on the Core X9 has magnetic dust filters.


----------



## Ithanul

O, rads can dump heat. Reason I actually leave the side of my cases open just to allow exit for it.

Heck, even my case gets hot from the heat when I fire off both Tis in BOINC. Right now Poem making them super toasty in my loop. 47C, that the highest I ever seen on them yet.

On dust, the only time I ever kept dust out of a one of my rigs is when I had some silverstone 3000rpm fans going. Offset though....it sound like a jet engine taking off.







No way the dust could settle in that case.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> O, rads can dump heat. Reason I actually leave the side of my cases open just to allow exit for it.
> 
> Heck, even my case gets hot from the heat when I fire off both Tis in BOINC. Right now Poem making them super toasty in my loop. 47C, that the highest I ever seen on them yet.
> 
> On dust, the only time I ever kept dust out of a one of my rigs is when I had some silverstone 3000rpm fans going. Offset though....it sound like a jet engine taking off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No way the dust could settle in that case.


OK everyone, I have added a dedicated intake fan at the bottom (leaving top closed.)

Also, because the Asus ROG Maximus VIII Impact board comes with the same external fan and temp sensor PCB as my Asus X99 Deluxe, I was able to implement this without using any fan splitters.

There's a temp sensor run straight to the center of the case to measure internal air temperature.



I should have called this "Project Cram It ALL In There"







Just a "glamour shot" before all the work.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hi guys. Just thought I would jump in here an let you all know that MNPCTech is giving back to our community in a big way.

So enter code, "OCN" at Checkout for 15% Discount off your order until 10/6/16

If Overseas, you need to follow instructions for ordering via "Contact Us" and mention the code @ http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html], http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html[/URL]

So if you've been contemplating modding your Fractal case, here is an opportunity to save some money while doing so.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hi guys. Just thought I would jump in here an let you all know that MNPCTech is giving back to our community in a big way.
> 
> So enter code, "OCN" at Checkout for 15% Discount off your order until 10/6/16
> 
> If Overseas, you need to follow instructions for ordering via "Contact Us" and mention the code @ http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html], http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html[/URL]
> 
> So if you've been contemplating modding your Fractal case, here is an opportunity to save some money while doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Very nice. I been eyeing some stuff over at their store. Think I will finally nab some stuff.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hi guys. Just thought I would jump in here an let you all know that MNPCTech is giving back to our community in a big way.
> 
> So enter code, "OCN" at Checkout for 15% Discount off your order until 10/6/16
> 
> If Overseas, you need to follow instructions for ordering via "Contact Us" and mention the code @ http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html], http://mnpctech.com/contact-us.html[/URL]
> 
> So if you've been contemplating modding your Fractal case, here is an opportunity to save some money while doing so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. I'm picking up the acrylic side panel for the Nano S.

*EDIT:* ...and a complete set of customized PSU cables from CableMod.

I'll probably remove the sticker from the side of the PSU.

AND an NZXT Hue+ which I realize I won't be able to use on the ROG Impact without a cable extension to my rear I/O panel, or use a USB 3 to 2 adapter (which I have) and lose the two front USB 3.0 ports. May end up returning the HUE+ if I don't like the looks and/or compromise.


----------



## fredrik

I´m thinking of the same setup, but a 240 (45mm) on top in push and the xe360 push and pull inside. (only 2 fans in pull and a radiator bracket for the res) What graphics cards are you using? Im thinking of getting a 1080, but they have a pcb length of 27-28 cm. How long is you graphics card? Thanks for your help!


----------



## fredrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delslow*
> 
> I have an EK-CoolStream XE 360 (60mm) in my Define S in push/pull, BUT it will not fit unless you mount the push fans on the outside of the intake side of the front panel. This will choke the intake, unless you want to make a mod to the front panel.
> 
> *Here you can see the 60mm rad in the front, with 25mm fans in pull, and 25mm in push (on the intake side)*
> 
> 
> *I've cut the front out (I've got to clean it up a bit more) and placed Black Chromax corners on the LTT fans (sorry Linus, orange was a bit loud)*
> 
> 
> *This is me trying to use speaker cloth to cover up the hole, but it's too restrictive. I have to find a better solution.*


I´m thinking of the same setup, but a 240 (45mm) on top in push and the xe360 push and pull inside. (only 2 fans in pull and a radiator bracket for the res) What graphics cards are you using? Im thinking of getting a 1080, but they have a pcb length of 27-28 cm. How long is you graphics card? Thanks for your help!


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredrik*
> 
> I´m thinking of the same setup, but a 240 (45mm) on top in push and the xe360 push and pull inside. (only 2 fans in pull and a radiator bracket for the res) What graphics cards are you using? Im thinking of getting a 1080, but they have a pcb length of 27-28 cm. How long is you graphics card? Thanks for your help!


I'm running a GTX 1080 G1 Gaming with no problems inside my Define S, 60mm thick rad and a tube res has plenty of room for push pull as well.


----------



## fredrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> I'm running a GTX 1080 G1 Gaming with no problems inside my Define S, 60mm thick rad and a tube res has plenty of room for push pull as well.


Great! Thank you so much for the info and picture!







What temps are you getting with that rad?

Now I just need to decide on which 1080 i should choose, EVGA FTW, ASUS Gaming OC och Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming... Maybe it will be easy and I will only find ek water blocks for one of the available and in stock.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fredrik*
> 
> Great! Thank you so much for the info and picture!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What temps are you getting with that rad?
> 
> Now I just need to decide on which 1080 i should choose, EVGA FTW, ASUS Gaming OC och Gigabyte Xtreme Gaming... Maybe it will be easy and I will only find ek water blocks for one of the available and in stock.


I paid $220 for the whole phobya kit and added an EK waterblock for the card, card gets to around 45*c with the fans set to "silent" on asus AI software, and the cpu at 1.45v runs 80*c at the same time as the gpu fully loaded.


----------



## DragX

Just signed up to overclock in order to share my experience with the *Nano S*

I wanted to go m-ITX, due to my need of occasional short distance travels. Unfortunately my new GTX 1070 is a bit on the huge side, whereby really small ITX case were no option.
However after putting all into the Nano S I'm really glad it came up this way. For its moderately size, you can fit any GPU up to 2.5 slots into it, and the cooling options are awesome.
I'm using a 240 radiator with push-pull layout in the top section and with a little bit of creativity you can fit a another 240 radiator with push or pull configuration in the top for the GPU, even with a 325mm (12.79") GPU.
I used an SFX PSU in order to help the GPU 'breathing' and as far as i can see, temperatures are doing fine with ~60°C (140° F) for the GPU and 55°C (131° F) for the CPU under gaming load.
At those temps i can barely hear anything, if i turn up the fan speeds temps are getting better of course.

The only struggle I have, is the limited number of fan headers on my mainboard (2..including the CPU fan header). Therefore I'm designing a pwm controller circuit board for my needs.

However, a picture is worth a thousand words:



Just love the look










Feel free to contact me, if you have questions


----------



## ivannooz

Fractal Design Node 202 build

specs:
Cpu: Intel Skylake 6100 i3 @ 3.7ghz

Mobo: Asrock h170m-itx/ac wifi included

Gpu: Zotac gtx 970

Psu/case: Fractal Design Node 202 450w psu

Storage: 960gb Sandisk SSD

8gb 2133 ddr4 crucial


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DragX*
> 
> Just signed up to overclock in order to share my experience with the *Nano S*
> 
> I wanted to go m-ITX, due to my need of occasional short distance travels. Unfortunately my new GTX 1070 is a bit on the huge side, whereby really small ITX case were no option.
> However after putting all into the Nano S I'm really glad it came up this way. For its moderately size, you can fit any GPU up to 2.5 slots into it, and the cooling options are awesome.
> I'm using a 240 radiator with push-pull layout in the top section and with a little bit of creativity you can fit a another 240 radiator with push or pull configuration in the top for the GPU, even with a 325mm (12.79") GPU.
> I used an SFX PSU in order to help the GPU 'breathing' and as far as i can see, temperatures are doing fine with ~60°C (140° F) for the GPU and 55°C (131° F) for the CPU under gaming load.
> At those temps i can barely hear anything, if i turn up the fan speeds temps are getting better of course.
> 
> The only struggle I have, is the limited number of fan headers on my mainboard (2..including the CPU fan header). Therefore I'm designing a pwm controller circuit board for my needs.
> 
> However, a picture is worth a thousand words:
> 
> 
> 
> Just love the look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feel free to contact me, if you have questions


WOW! What are the dimensions on that thing lol.


----------



## DragX

Dimensions of the case or the GPU?

The Nano S is pretty large for an ITX case with its 203 x 330 x 400mm (8"x13"x15.8")
However, the AMP extreme from Zotac is a monster considering it's size:


The only ITX case I found beside the Fractal, which can house the card is from Cougar, but there were other limitations. I'm glad i went for the Fractal








At the moment I am thinking about getting a second Arctic AIO Cooler for the GPU, not because it is needed but because I like working at this Rig and I would like to now how low the temps of the 1070s can sink.


----------



## mypickaxe

By the way, here is an acrylic sidepanel from MNPCTECH for the Nano S. I scratched it already (dropped it because I'm a clutz, while installing it.)

The big bummer is it does not sit flush with the side. It juts out and I think that's to do with the radiators I have in front and back. Just the way it goes - can't have everything.



CableMods order is hopefully on the way soon. Lighting is going to be a hassle with the USB limitations on the ITX boards. Might have to do something without full RGB control in Windows.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> O, rads can dump heat. Reason I actually leave the side of my cases open just to allow exit for it.
> 
> Heck, even my case gets hot from the heat when I fire off both Tis in BOINC. Right now Poem making them super toasty in my loop. 47C, that the highest I ever seen on them yet.
> 
> On dust, the only time I ever kept dust out of a one of my rigs is when I had some silverstone 3000rpm fans going. Offset though....it sound like a jet engine taking off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No way the dust could settle in that case.
> 
> 
> 
> OK everyone, I have added a dedicated intake fan at the bottom (leaving top closed.)
> 
> ...
> 
> Just a "glamour shot" before all the work.
Click to expand...

I posted this in the Predator thread of the water cooling forum, but it's worth showing here since a lot of you probably do not run an EK Predator like I have installed in my Nano S.

All that back and forth about my airflow wasn't worth it. I'm seeing absolutely fantastic temps in the case and on the components. Airflow is coming from the back and bottom of the case and going out the front. I have a very fine dust filter behind the rear 120mm radiator, and the bottom dust filter that comes with the case installed. The top is closed off.

Even with a 4.5 GHz overclock on the 6600K (adaptive voltage up to 1.312V) I'm seeing temps in the case get no higher than 33 degrees after a full mkv to m4v conversion with Handbrake over an hour and 45 minutes. That's 100% CPU utilization through the duration, not using QuickSync.

Temps on the CPU are pretty good too. On the GPU side of thing, in gaming, it has settled down to between 42 and 49 degrees depending on the game.

This shows 100% CPU utilization. Low 50s after almost 10% of a 1080p MKV to MP4 conversion. After 110 minutes it was only in the high 50s, between 57-60.



The "T_Sensor" and "EXT_Sensor" are just measuring air temperature inside the case with the covers on.





EDIT: The following was just to show *idle* temps, which are very good. I will come back with another one that is reflective of overall temperature readings during 100% load.


----------



## Velathawen

Seeing temps like these really makes me want to stop being lazy and clean my CPU block, I'm seeing temps in the 60s during heavier games like DE:MD while GPUs are chilling in low 40s in the same loop. I keep lying to myself and saying "maybe this weekend"


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Seeing temps like these really makes me want to stop being lazy and clean my CPU block, I'm seeing temps in the 60s during heavier games like DE:MD while GPUs are chilling in low 40s in the same loop. I keep lying to myself and saying "maybe this weekend"


His temps at 30c ish are under no load if you look down a little cpu usage max is 30% ish.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Seeing temps like these really makes me want to stop being lazy and clean my CPU block, I'm seeing temps in the 60s during heavier games like DE:MD while GPUs are chilling in low 40s in the same loop. I keep lying to myself and saying "maybe this weekend"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His temps at 30c ish are under no load if you look down a little cpu usage max is 30% ish.
Click to expand...

Here, this should clear up your concern. Same file in conversion process (1080p/24 mkv to mp4), 100% CPU utilization, core voltage steady around 1.25V (max 1.310.)

You can see EXT_Sensor1 which is right near the center of the case, above the GPU, slightly behind the reservoir, it's at 30 degrees.

Idle *core* temps start out around 20 (68 Fahrenheit) so that's roughly my room temperature here before it gets hot and the sun comes over the front of my house. I live in Texas - room is on the west facing side.

If hard to read just click the image and then the "Original" button. It was taken on a 1080p LCD (my gaming / weekend sports TV.)



So really, this clears up all concerns other than the prospect of dust, which should be mitigated now with fan filters on the rear and bottom, and roughly even pressure (positive with the front exhaust fans turned down a bit.)

Only way to know is to come back in a few weeks / months and report back on that.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> His temps at 30c ish are under no load if you look down a little cpu usage max is 30% ish.


Yeah, that ain't low. At least compared to mine. Both my Tis will sit at 40-42C at full load while folding. 47C if I have both doing [email protected] units. With my 4770K doing four WCG units or pogs units in BOINC. The CPU with sit right below 50C. So glad I delid it.









This of course with ambient of 27C.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> His temps at 30c ish are under no load if you look down a little cpu usage max is 30% ish.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that ain't low. At least compared to mine. Both my Tis will sit at 40-42C at full load while folding. 47C if I have both doing [email protected] units. With my 4770K doing four WCG units or pogs units in BOINC. The CPU with sit right below 50C. So glad I delid it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This of course with ambient of 27C.
Click to expand...

That's a different workload. I don't have a delidded processor. I am using the most basic TIM from EK. I've provided evidence, you have not - in other words, overclock from base, core voltage, etc.

Is it still low? Yeah, it is relative to what I've done in the past. That's what matters. It's low enough that even at 100% utilization in an h.264 encoding app I am seeing low 50s. Low enough for me and really anyone unless they're running a golden chip that's been delidded, etc. I could push the CPU up higher, higher voltage (probably) = higher temps, etc. Again, not the goal here.

This wasn't meant as a benchmark or measurement (aka a "peeing" contest.) But congratulations on your obviously superior build. Not the point (at all.)

The purpose was to show I am not fighting temps with this build, nor do I have airflow or high internal case temps. Those things were suggested as what would be a problem for me, none of which are the case.

Speaking of the case, bravo to Fractal Design for this one - it is pretty much an ideal water cooling Mini-ITX case from my vantage point.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> That's a different workload. I don't have a delidded processor. I am using the most basic TIM from EK. I've provided evidence, you have not - in other words, overclock from base, core voltage, etc.
> 
> This wasn't meant as a benchmark or measurement (aka a "peeing" contest.) But congratulations on your obviously superior build. Not the point (at all.)
> 
> The purpose was to show I am not fighting temps with this build, nor do I have airflow or high internal case temps. Those things were suggested as what would be a problem for me, none of which are the case.


Heck, I was not attacking or saying your build was bad.

Still not bad temps I say that you have there considering how much you stuff in there.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> That's a different workload. I don't have a delidded processor. I am using the most basic TIM from EK. I've provided evidence, you have not - in other words, overclock from base, core voltage, etc.
> 
> This wasn't meant as a benchmark or measurement (aka a "peeing" contest.) But congratulations on your obviously superior build. Not the point (at all.)
> 
> The purpose was to show I am not fighting temps with this build, nor do I have airflow or high internal case temps. Those things were suggested as what would be a problem for me, none of which are the case.
> 
> 
> 
> Heck, I was not attacking or saying your build was bad.
> 
> Still not bad temps I say that you have there considering how much you stuff in there.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I just read it that way.

I have thought about delidding a processor (not necessarily the 6600K I have in there now,) but at this point, not going through the trouble considering I'm using a monoblock which would require at least a partial drain of the system and removal of the motherboard to get at it.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Sorry, I just read it that way.
> 
> I have thought about delidding a processor (not necessarily the 6600K I have in there now,) but at this point, not going through the trouble considering I'm using a monoblock which would require at least a partial drain of the system and removal of the motherboard to get at it.


Its alright.

I actually like how you manage to setup the Nano S.

Think that the most stuff I ever seen stuff into one.


----------



## Kokuhaku

Hi all,

I saw this build of Fractal Nano S and it looks pretty cool. I'm planning to build exactly like this one but I need your help, I have a few questions for those who own/don't own one (anybody's opinion is welcome).

How good Corsair H110i GTX(*280mm*) fit at front? Will it scratch the top and bottom?

Pic:


Anyone interested too, here's where I found it: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/QtzMnQ

Also,
As you can see, there is only 3 fans and all of them is occupied by a radiator.
Any ideas in temp it would be? Would this cause any potential temp issues?

And if so, would 2x*140mm*/280mm config fans at top still be able to fit?

But at this point, taking the top cover off would be my last option.

I'm asking this because, ambient temperature in my country is about 30-35c°C / 90-95°F so I would like to have it at decent temperature as much as possible.

Thank you all!


----------



## Velathawen

If in doubt always RTFM









If you scroll down to the page 18 of the compatibility chart for radiator you can see the spacing.

In an ideal scenario you can do 240 + 240 rad (blows my mind in such a tiny case) so it goes to reason that you can easily do dual 120 fans up top as well with the h100 up front.

As to the other stuff I was just making a silly comment about how I really need to clean my damn CPU block that's still gunked up from v1 of my crappy loop, didn't mean to start a fight









I really need to get better airflow in my R5 so I can improve my 980Ti OCs. Currently running it without the front panel, replaced the front fans with 140MPs and it has improved over the HP-14 Venturis, but still not really enough. Should have planned my build better and gotten the Define S from the get go >.>

Will see if things improve any after the rubber feet I ordered get here to elevate the case from the ground an extra inch or so.


----------



## dervladimir




----------



## D13mass

Hi, guys! I wanted to cut the window in my Fractal Design Define R4, a few weeks ago I have asked you







So, anyway I have done.

I made an order in one laser workshop for laser cutting my panel of the case, bought an organic glass and double sided tape.

In my "beautiful" country I have spent for all this project 18$ (laser cutting 5$, glass 10$, 3$ for tape), better and cheaper than the original panel from Fractal, I suppose.

Window - 330*350mm
Organic glass - 360*380mm (3mm) transparent
Double sided tape - 1360 mm








Next step - I`m waiting for water cooling components for my system.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Sorry, I just read it that way.
> 
> I have thought about delidding a processor (not necessarily the 6600K I have in there now,) but at this point, not going through the trouble considering I'm using a monoblock which would require at least a partial drain of the system and removal of the motherboard to get at it.


I'll always delid, and if possible run my chips naked, the IHS soaks up too much heat for me and I like to push things hard.

I had 1.6v at one point on my 4670k in an attempt to get to 5ghz but still had a few degrees of thermal head room. I've noticed the new skylake chips run incredibly cool tbh so that might be what you're experiencing too.

we're not here to bash you, just from what we can see you're saying conflicting things and it can be misleading to others at a glance, that's all I pointed out and it was never an attack on yourself.

In the words of Abraham Lincoln:
Quote:


> Be excellent to each other.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Sorry, I just read it that way.
> 
> I have thought about delidding a processor (not necessarily the 6600K I have in there now,) but at this point, not going through the trouble considering I'm using a monoblock which would require at least a partial drain of the system and removal of the motherboard to get at it.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll always delid, and if possible run my chips naked, the IHS soaks up too much heat for me and I like to push things hard.
> 
> I had 1.6v at one point on my 4670k in an attempt to get to 5ghz but still had a few degrees of thermal head room. I've noticed the new skylake chips run incredibly cool tbh so that might be what you're experiencing too.
> 
> we're not here to bash you, just from what we can see you're saying conflicting things and it can be misleading to others at a glance, that's all I pointed out and it was never an attack on yourself.
> 
> In the words of Abraham Lincoln:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Be excellent to each other.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That's cool but I am absolutely not conflicting myself. The world is fluid and so are my parts. If you have some concerns about anything I've said or posted, bring those concerns to me. I'm able to deal with actual constructive criticism. In the end, everything I've said has been true, and I've made some changes to my build since I started posting it. I don't feel like putting a build log out there for this. But my vision from the start hasn't really changed and what you see now is pretty much where I started from, with minor tweaks.

The issue on forums in general and also here is that every other thread is populated by a troll or someone who simply can't help themselves from being pompus / conceited / holier than thou / or just a plain troll.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> That's cool but I am absolutely not conflicting myself. The world is fluid and so are my parts. If you have some concerns about anything I've said or posted, bring those concerns to me. I'm able to deal with actual constructive criticism. In the end, everything I've said has been true, and I've made some changes to my build since I started posting it. I don't feel like putting a build log out there for this. But my vision from the start hasn't really changed and what you see now is pretty much where I started from, with minor tweaks.
> 
> The issue on forums in general and also here is that every other thread is populated by a troll or someone who simply can't help themselves from being pompus / conceited / holier than thou / or just a plain troll.


If you feel like you're being trolled the forum staff will sort them should they be breaking the ToS when you report them. There are trolls anywhere in life that's a fact but in the time I've seen you post here you seem to jump at a chance to start kicking up dust at the slightest of things.

Just try to relax and enjoy your stay.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> That's cool but I am absolutely not conflicting myself. The world is fluid and so are my parts. If you have some concerns about anything I've said or posted, bring those concerns to me. I'm able to deal with actual constructive criticism. In the end, everything I've said has been true, and I've made some changes to my build since I started posting it. I don't feel like putting a build log out there for this. But my vision from the start hasn't really changed and what you see now is pretty much where I started from, with minor tweaks.
> 
> The issue on forums in general and also here is that every other thread is populated by a troll or someone who simply can't help themselves from being pompus / conceited / holier than thou / or just a plain troll.
> 
> 
> 
> If you feel like you're being trolled the forum staff will sort them should they be breaking the ToS when you report them. There are trolls anywhere in life that's a fact but in the time I've seen you post here you seem to jump at a chance to start kicking up dust at the slightest of things.
> 
> Just try to relax and enjoy your stay.
Click to expand...

I'm generally relaxed. In terms of kicking up dust, not sure what you are talking about. If you mean I do not stand for someone trying to talk me down, disrespect or misrepresent what I've said, or walk over my comments with flippant remarks (generally, snide behavior) that's true. I don't put up with it. That's called having respect for oneself, in my opinion. Everyone is different.

The issue with forum staff is another one all together. I won't get into that because, as you would expect, it's against forum rules to talk about their handling of incidents or thread management.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I'm generally relaxed. In terms of kicking up dust, not sure what you are talking about. If you mean I do not stand for someone trying to talk me down, disrespect or misrepresent what I've said, or walk over my comments with flippant remarks (generally, snide behavior) that's true. I don't put up with it. That's called having respect for oneself, in my opinion. Everyone is different.
> 
> The issue with forum staff is another one all together. I won't get into that because, as you would expect, it's against forum rules to talk about their handling of incidents or thread management.


You don't have to like them, they're just doing a job they normally turn into robots when being an admin like I do when I'm an admin, personally I hate it. If someone wants to make something of nothing just click report, tell it like it is and move on don't even give them the time of day. Something I've learned this last few months on and off this forum is I just don't care anymore lol, the more people I interact with the more I realise I'm more likely to save an animal from a house fire than another human.









As far as your rig goes it looks fine, there's a few things I would change but that's me, and it's not my rig so I don't care, if someone does have an issue just ignore them and they'll go back to their meaningless existence. Just like the rest of us.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I'm generally relaxed. In terms of kicking up dust, not sure what you are talking about. If you mean I do not stand for someone trying to talk me down, disrespect or misrepresent what I've said, or walk over my comments with flippant remarks (generally, snide behavior) that's true. I don't put up with it. That's called having respect for oneself, in my opinion. Everyone is different.
> 
> The issue with forum staff is another one all together. I won't get into that because, as you would expect, it's against forum rules to talk about their handling of incidents or thread management.
> 
> 
> 
> You don't have to like them, they're just doing a job they normally turn into robots when being an admin like I do when I'm an admin, personally I hate it. If someone wants to make something of nothing just click report, tell it like it is and move on don't even give them the time of day. Something I've learned this last few months on and off this forum is I just don't care anymore lol, the more people I interact with the more I realise I'm more likely to save an animal from a house fire than another human.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as your rig goes it looks fine, there's a few things I would change but that's me, and it's not my rig so I don't care, if someone does have an issue just ignore them and they'll go back to their meaningless existence. Just like the rest of us.
Click to expand...

Give me a break, man. You're doing the very thing you accused me of doing, by projecting your current behavior onto me. We finished that conversation up yesterday, amicably, but here you come today inserting yourself into it. Kicking up the figurative dust you said I kick up. Good job.

Wanted to say this earlier but I had to get some work done.

As far as this forum, really don't care. They won't delete an account. They just give a user warnings and strikes and whatnot. It gets old. Trust me, ask to be deleted.

As far as my build, it's just one of several. I like it. It was an example of a Predator 240 loop expansion in a nice Mini-ITX case. If people would want to change something in it, they can build their own.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> Give me a break, man. You're doing the very thing you accused me of doing, by projecting your current behavior onto me. We finished that conversation up yesterday, amicably, but here you come today inserting yourself into it. Kicking up the figurative dust you said I kick up. Good job.
> 
> Wanted to say this earlier but I had to get some work done.
> 
> As far as this forum, really don't care. They won't delete an account. They just give a user warnings and strikes and whatnot. It gets old. Trust me, ask to be deleted.
> 
> As far as my build, it's just one of several. I like it. It was an example of a Predator 240 loop expansion in a nice Mini-ITX case. If people would want to change something in it, they can build their own.


I was nothing but polite in my posts to you but now I'm just going to take my own advice.

Good day.


----------



## Techbyte

I have the Define Nano S (No Window). I'm debating between the Noctua NH-U12S and NH-U9S for a CPU cooler. I know the U12S will fit, but which would be best? I know this really isn't the place but getting no hits in air cooling.


----------



## lostsupper

What motherboard are you using? The Asus M8i is listed as being compatible with the NH-U12S, but it isn't. I went with the NH-C14S and am really pleased with it.

All else being equal, the bigger the cooler the better.


----------



## phlip00ws6

My define nano s window - 6700k, GTX 970 ITX. I don't have fans on the top rad so it gets pretty hot


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> My define nano s window - 6700k, GTX 970 ITX. I don't have fans on the top rad so it gets pretty hot


How come you're running the top rad without fans? Is there a conflict with some other component?


----------



## phlip00ws6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> How come you're running the top rad without fans? Is there a conflict with some other component?


There's no room inside, and because of where I put the computer I can't put them on the outside. So I guess I need to move some stuff around - once that top radiator gets hot it just acts like another component to cool by the front radiator.


----------



## Dizato1

Hi there!

I'm new to this forum, but tought to share my Fractal Build that's comming up. Going to build an gamer/workstation system In a Fractal Core 500



Build:

Intel core I7 - 6700K
Asus Strix GTX 1070
Asus Maximus Impact VIII

2x Seagate Barracuda 2TB (Not shown In picture)
1x Samsung 850 evo 250GB SSD
G.Skill TridentZ DDR4-3200 C14 DC - 32GB (2x16gb)

CoolerMaster V650 PSU - 650W Gold
5x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM
Kraken X61 WaterCooling

*The Kraken X61 will be fitted with 4x Be Quiet Silent wings 3 fan for a Push / pull configuration. Also going to seal It off with electrical tape between the fans / radiator.
*Will also create a muffer for the PSU to push air better out of the chassis
*Going for as best as possible cable management for this build

You want to see more of the build? Then I can put It some pictures on the next post, when I get closer to beeing done.

Cheers Guys =D


----------



## Dimensive

Welcome to OCN and I'd like to see some pics of the build for sure.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> There's no room inside, and because of where I put the computer I can't put them on the outside. So I guess I need to move some stuff around - once that top radiator gets hot it just acts like another component to cool by the front radiator.


Turn your exhaust fan around and have your front rad as intake, the positive pressure should in theory push air through the top rad. If you can't fit 25mm fans what about 15mm fans instead?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> There's no room inside, and because of where I put the computer I can't put them on the outside. So I guess I need to move some stuff around - once that top radiator gets hot it just acts like another component to cool by the front radiator.


Ah. Yes, if you have particularly tall components (anything over about 35mm) it can sometimes get in the way of the top rad. Have you looked into using slim fans for the rad? You can get 120mm fans as thin as 15mm if you look around. You might also experiment with the various screw positions to see if there's a spot a single fan will fit. Wouldn't be as pretty but it certainly beats overheating.


----------



## Dimensive

I dunno how well they would work with a radiator, but you can get 12mm fans from Scythe if 15mm fans are too big.


----------



## JackCY

Can't you offset the whole radiator to one side away from mobo or at least offset the fans on the radiator? Not so hard a mod to do. Or is still not enough that Nano has it already to a side from what I see? Or get smaller fans that fit, 92mm or what every you can find that fits. Must be a weird mobo or block that it blocks so much space.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Can't you offset the whole radiator to one side away from mobo or at least offset the fans on the radiator? Not so hard a mod to do. Or is still not enough that Nano has it already to a side from what I see? Or get smaller fans that fit, 92mm or what every you can find that fits. Must be a weird mobo or block that it blocks so much space.


Not really as the holes in the roof are just normal holes drilled, I suppose you could mod the holes into wider ones that allow for this.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Must be a weird mobo or block that it blocks so much space.


RAM with extra large heat spreaders is probably the most common offender. Plenty of scenarios where those can get in the way. Doesn't look like that's the situation here though, far as I can tell.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> RAM with extra large heat spreaders is probably the most common offender. Plenty of scenarios where those can get in the way. Doesn't look like that's the situation here though, far as I can tell.


Just wanna say what great support you guys have, helped me with a problem and even sent me pictures showing me what i had to do!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> RAM with extra large heat spreaders is probably the most common offender. Plenty of scenarios where those can get in the way. Doesn't look like that's the situation here though, far as I can tell.


The biggest offender in my case is the VRM waterblock and small hardline fitting that hits the fan on my 420mm rad. Had to file down my fan to make it fit.


----------



## phlip00ws6

I thinks it's mostly due to my big ass 150mm res and pump. It goes from the bottom all the way to the top rad, maybe 5mm between res intake fitting and the radiator. It gets to about 75c with wprime.. The idle temps are good though. The real question is would it be better without the top rad?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phlip00ws6*
> 
> I thinks it's mostly due to my big ass 150mm res and pump. It goes from the bottom all the way to the top rad, maybe 5mm between res intake fitting and the radiator. It gets to about 75c with wprime.. The idle temps are good though. The real question is would it be better without the top rad?


Move it down slightly give yourself 15mm clearance then put 15mm thick fans on to the rad and you'll be fine. Also prime is a heat program so 75c is hot indeed I use x264 because it produces less heat and finds instability very easily.

You can also put your fans behind the front bezel on the define S so is it not possible for you to do the same with the nano?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

This might be the best place to ask, has anyone used PH-TC14PE inside the define nano s? I understand to have a chance for it to fit I should swap the fans out to 120mm ones, even then im not sure if it fits.


----------



## JackCY

120mm rear fan, narrow case, the cooler may just fit so you can close the side panel. That is if you move the fans down low or replace them with smaller ones so they don't stick over the heatsink.
They should honestly stop making these narrow cases with 120mm rear fans. But I guess they are too popular for watercooling for that to happen.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> 120mm rear fan, narrow case, the cooler may just fit so you can close the side panel. That is if you move the fans down low or replace them with smaller ones so they don't stick over the heatsink.
> They should honestly stop making these narrow cases with 120mm rear fans. But I guess they are too popular for watercooling for that to happen.


Usually small form factor cases have small systems in them with a small cooler or AIO so it wouldn't make much sense to stop making them this way. If all else fails mount the fan on the outside of the case, it's not a big deal?


----------



## Timmaigh!

Hey there,

i just got new R5 white (no window) for my upcoming X99 build. Have the boxes around for about 3 weeks, originally planning to just replace the components inside my current case (Define R2), but for whatever reason had no time for that...and ultimately decided to get new case and PSU too.

The whole build: gigabyte X99-P SLI, i7 6850k, 32GB Corsair DDR4, 2x Evga GTX 1080 FTW, 1x Intel 530 SSD, 2x Samsung EVO (250 and 500 GB), 2x WD Caviar 2TB (Black and Green, keeping from my current rig)...

Now, from i could gather, i am going to face issues putting it all together, thus i seek advice over here. The issues are going to concern the AiO watercooling (Corsair H105) - i dont know where to mount it.

Regarding top position, i have read there may be clearance issues, cause its more than 55 mm thick.... can anyone confirm it? Even if this was not true, is this optimal position? Lot of noise dampening is going to be taken away from the top of the case and then there will be dust falling through....

Front position - i would need to remove all the drive cages, where do i put my drives? 2 SSD are gonna go behind motherboard tray obviously, but what about the remaining one and 2 HDDs? I cant move the smaller cage to the centre of the case, cause it would prevent me to install second GPU... any ideas, how to solve this?

Bottom position - should work, if i remove the smaller bottom drive cage, but i dont think the tubing of H105 would reach CPU from this position? Any idea whether yes or no?

Thx for any advices


----------



## nzphil

It looks like the top is your only real option. As far as clearance goes it shouldn't be a problem as long as you place your H105 towards the window. Is your's the 240mm version? If its the 280 then you might have clearance problems. As for sound damping there's not much you can do. I would advise buying a magnetic dust filter for the top though, as much for looks as for reducing dust. To me this seems like you best option.


----------



## brazilianloser

WTB some new case design from this guys... its been a while now.


----------



## Timmaigh!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> It looks like the top is your only real option. As far as clearance goes it shouldn't be a problem as long as you place your H105 towards the window. Is your's the 240mm version? If its the 280 then you might have clearance problems. As for sound damping there's not much you can do. I would advise buying a magnetic dust filter for the top though, as much for looks as for reducing dust. To me this seems like you best option.


Thanks! Good to know there wont be any clearance issue, finally straight answer. I have 240mm version indeed, did not even know there is 280mm one.

I actually have 2 of those magnetic filters inside my current R2, alongside 2 Noctua NH14 fans. I planned to migrate those to the new rig anyway. Not sure those filters fit now though, if the case is wider than R2 (and grills on top too).

Anyway, googled around a bit and find this contraption:






if i could live without optical drive (chances are i could, since i use them like once per year at best), i could buy 2 of these and fit all my drives in there. So no need for any HDD cage, could then place the radiator the front, problem with the front mount solved.

The question is, what about airflow in this case? With top mounted radiator its easy, radiator being outtake, so is the fan in the back, front of the case serving as intake. But what about the front version? If i have radiator as intake, then add another fan on the floor of the case between the radiator and PSU as another intake and have one outtake in the upper back, will this provide enough airflow/pressure/whatever to call it? I could possibly use the moduvent on the side panel as another intake if needed too... But would love to keep the top of the case closed, if there is no radiator.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timmaigh!*
> 
> Thanks! Good to know there wont be any clearance issue, finally straight answer. I have 240mm version indeed, did not even know there is 280mm one.
> 
> I actually have 2 of those magnetic filters inside my current R2, alongside 2 Noctua NH14 fans. I planned to migrate those to the new rig anyway. Not sure those filters fit now though, if the case is wider than R2 (and grills on top too).
> 
> Anyway, googled around a bit and find this contraption:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if i could live without optical drive (chances are i could, since i use them like once per year at best), i could buy 2 of these and fit all my drives in there. So no need for any HDD cage, could then place the radiator the front, problem with the front mount solved.
> 
> The question is, what about airflow in this case? With top mounted radiator its easy, radiator being outtake, so is the fan in the back, front of the case serving as intake. But what about the front version? If i have radiator as intake, then add another fan on the floor of the case between the radiator and PSU as another intake and have one outtake in the upper back, will this provide enough airflow/pressure/whatever to call it? I could possibly use the moduvent on the side panel as another intake if needed too... But would love to keep the top of the case closed, if there is no radiator.


You should have no trouble getting sufficient ventilation with this setup. Also keep in mind that the rad is the part doing the actual heat dissipation, so your CPU is getting fresh air, so to speak, regardless of the temps in the board area. The only real concern is the GPU, and I believe it should have no trouble getting plenty of airflow in the scenario you describe. I wouldn't think a side fan should be necessary in this configuration.


----------



## Timmaigh!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> You should have no trouble getting sufficient ventilation with this setup. Also keep in mind that the rad is the part doing the actual heat dissipation, so your CPU is getting fresh air, so to speak, regardless of the temps in the board area. The only real concern is the GPU, and I believe it should have no trouble getting plenty of airflow in the scenario you describe. I wouldn't think a side fan should be necessary in this configuration.


Thank you, much appreciated!

I actually made simple diagram, before i read your response. so i might as post it now, just to be sure, we are on the same page:



One more thing i have to ask, what about the fan configuration? Did i got it right? Can i mount radiator in push-pull config with the FD fans, which come with the case pushing the air to the radiator from the outside and the Corsair fans, which come with the rad, pulling the air of it into the case? Or should i use simply do push or pull with the Corsair fans?


----------



## nextevolution3

my starter build


----------



## nextevolution3

changed to hard tubing


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timmaigh!*
> 
> Thank you, much appreciated!
> 
> I actually made simple diagram, before i read your response. so i might as post it now, just to be sure, we are on the same page:
> 
> 
> 
> One more thing i have to ask, what about the fan configuration? Did i got it right? Can i mount radiator in push-pull config with the FD fans, which come with the case pushing the air to the radiator from the outside and the Corsair fans, which come with the rad, pulling the air of it into the case? Or should i use simply do push or pull with the Corsair fans?


Is it Fractal Define R4?







If yes - you are my each sufferer









Today I have finished water cooling in my Define R4 and I `m thinking about a new better case












What is inside:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel (Original CSQ)
EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Nickel
EK-D5 Vario Motor (12V DC Pump Motor)
EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Acetal
Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT
Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm radiator
Coolgate 240mm (60mm)
Alphacool 16/10 compression fitting 90° revolvable G1/4'' + QYFREEZE
ClearFlex60 tubing 15,9/9,5mm (3/8"ID) clear
Alphacool 2-way ball valve G1/4 - Chrome



My first water build.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timmaigh!*
> 
> Thank you, much appreciated!
> 
> I actually made simple diagram, before i read your response. so i might as post it now, just to be sure, we are on the same page:
> 
> 
> 
> One more thing i have to ask, what about the fan configuration? Did i got it right? Can i mount radiator in push-pull config with the FD fans, which come with the case pushing the air to the radiator from the outside and the Corsair fans, which come with the rad, pulling the air of it into the case? Or should i use simply do push or pull with the Corsair fans?


I'm not sure it'll affect performance having two 140mm fans pushing air into a dual 120mm rad, but it is possible to do it that way. If I had to speculate though, I'd expect the blade overlap between the two sizes would create extra noise from buffeting without a whole lot of benefit in terms of airflow. Might be best to leave the 140mm fans out. Doing so should simplify the process of mounting the bottom fan too. That's my opinion anyway.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D13mass*
> 
> Is it Fractal Define R4?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If yes - you are my each sufferer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today I have finished water cooling in my Define R4 and I `m thinking about a new better case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is inside:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel (Original CSQ)
> EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Nickel
> EK-D5 Vario Motor (12V DC Pump Motor)
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 - Acetal
> Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 15 LT
> Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm radiator
> Coolgate 240mm (60mm)
> Alphacool 16/10 compression fitting 90° revolvable G1/4'' + QYFREEZE
> ClearFlex60 tubing 15,9/9,5mm (3/8"ID) clear
> Alphacool 2-way ball valve G1/4 - Chrome
> 
> 
> 
> My first water build.


It looks like you got a pretty clean build out of it. What grievances have you had with your R4?


----------



## D13mass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> It looks like you got a pretty clean build out of it. What grievances have you had with your R4?


So small case even for 240mm radiators, not holes for 120mm fans on front panel.


----------



## mypickaxe

I swapped the Crucial RAM out for this Corsair 4000 MHz kit. I wanted to see if it makes a difference in Fallout 4 on this particular machine and...to my surprise it actually does.

*My OCD says I need a blood red PCIe slot cover, and I need to shorten that run from the pump to the GPU.*

CableMod custom cables also came in, and I realized two things almost immediately...



One, I should have double checked my order, as I forgot the second SATA power cable for my HDD. I also forgot to order custom SATA data cables, and I should have ordered a double MOLEX instead of the single, considering my plan was to rig up the NZXT HUE+ and I'm already using one Molex for the fan controller. I'm out of Molex splitters...it's been so long since I needed one.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I swapped the Crucial RAM out for this Corsair 4000 MHz kit. I wanted to see if it makes a difference in Fallout 4 on this particular machine and...to my surprise it actually does.
> 
> *My OCD says I need a blood red PCIe slot cover, and I need to shorten that run from the pump to the GPU.*
> 
> CableMods custom cables also came in, and I realized two things almost immediately...
> 
> One, I should have double checked my order, as I forgot the second SATA power cable for my HDD. I also forgot to order custom SATA data cables, and I should have ordered a double MOLEX instead of the single, considering my plan was to rig up the NZXT HUE+ and I'm already using one Molex for the fan controller. I'm out of Molex splitters...it's been so long since I needed one.


Faster Ram will always make a difference to FPS numbers because of how quickly it can process information, keeping you CAS numbers down also helps, I've got a really nice kit of Corsair 16gb 2400mhz ram DDR3 as I'm not on skylake yet, and I've yet to run into issues.

Try playing about with your timings and see if you can get them lower. Fallout is CPU limited due to being open world, so if you speed up how quickly your pc can calculate all the magic numbers then its going to help.


----------



## Reaper28

I've got a quick question. I currently have a R4 and considering buying an R5 windowed case for my server. If I pop the rivets on the 5.25 bays to remove that cage will that cause any case stability issues? also would it be possible to put the bottom HDD cage at the top? so it's 3 complete cages.

Thanks guys


----------



## nextevolution3

I have all the cages out and it still solid


----------



## Dizato1

Well, took some time but I'm done now










Build:

Intel core I7 - 6700K
MSI GTX 1070 Gaming X
Asus Maximus Impact VIII

2x Seagate Barracuda 2TB (Not shown In picture)
1x Samsung 850 evo 250GB SSD
G.Skill TridentZ DDR4-3200 C14 DC - 32GB (2x16gb)

CoolerMaster V650 PSU - 650W Gold
4x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM
Kraken X61 WaterCooling

First off - Good case, love the size of the thing. But ended beeing kinda of a "hard" build, because of the temps and that I wanted to make It dead silent.

This Is what It's suppose to look like^^



This Is after some cutting and the final result












Running silent fans all over, so can't barly hear anything from the case. But still, because of the modding I was able to get the I7 6700k up to 4.6 Ghz at 1.31V. Temps Idle is about 30-34 degrees.
The problem with the "normal" holes that was In the chassis, Is that when you get some good quality fans, you get noise from the fans trying to suck air tru those small holes in the chassis. So i decided to get It more "cold and silent" by just cutting It away.

Then you have the PCH and VRM that In the start (before the mods) was crawling up to 70-75 degrees - WAY to hot for comfort, so I ended up bungie strapping two 80mm silent fans inside the case. The fans was locked Into a V symbol, so if the temps reach 55 degrees, they turn on and cool off the VRM and PCH. After running AIDA 64 with stresstest on Ram, cache and CPU - Combined with running Vally benchmark for the GPU. My components ended up with these temps with an ambient room temp about 24-25 degrees:

*temp range Celcius final result -- 5 hours test time*
CPU: 64 - 68 (overclock 4,6ghz)
Ram: 44 - 47 (3200mhz XMP profile, 1,35 volt)
GPU: 68 ( overclock +125mhz core and 300mhz vram )
VRM: 48-52
PCH: 54-58

So combined I now have 9 fans because I also found out that the GPU was getting way to hot. Not because I't did'ent get enough air from outside, but all the air that was pushed into the case, was trapped. So before all mods It could get all the way up to 75 degrees (and maybe worse If I had let the test run longer *30 mins*). So i modded in a thrid 80mm fan into the case right beside the PSU in the front. And because of the cutting and space issues in the chassis, i decided to put the fan controller under the front panel.



This fan Is triggered by the PCH temps, because the PCH Is so close to the gpu that when the gpu heats up, the pch follows. So at 55 degrees for the pch this fan also turns on to push air out of the "heat bubble" that normally was created on the side of the GPU. Now the air is wented into the front panel, and pushed out the rills in the front.

And then some final pictures of the cable management:




And last picture - after i bungiestrapped the two 80mm fans (only see one fan, because the other is right behind it) *I had to remove 1x 140mm fan from the radiator. So It runs on 3 fans instead of 4.



So the conclusion. Loved It! Went from a fractal Define S, and this was really a neat and tiny build. But It's heavy as F*** x)

Forgot to mention - Have also put in silent isulated pads all over the chassis to make It more silent and changed from the original Asus Strix 1070 to an MSI Gtx 1070 (because of the more silent fans)

Cheers guys! Hope you liked it


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nextevolution3*
> 
> I have all the cages out and it still solid


I want to put 3 cages in the R5 but remove the 5.25 to do so..


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I've got a quick question. I currently have a R4 and considering buying an R5 windowed case for my server. If I pop the rivets on the 5.25 bays to remove that cage will that cause any case stability issues? also would it be possible to put the bottom HDD cage at the top? so it's 3 complete cages.
> 
> Thanks guys


The 5.25" and 3.5" drive cages are removable by design, however the positions are not interchangeable. You could however use 5.25" to 3.5" adapters to install HDDs in the 5.25" bays.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I swapped the Crucial RAM out for this Corsair 4000 MHz kit. I wanted to see if it makes a difference in Fallout 4 on this particular machine and...to my surprise it actually does.
> 
> *My OCD says I need a blood red PCIe slot cover, and I need to shorten that run from the pump to the GPU.*
> 
> CableMod custom cables also came in, and I realized two things almost immediately...
> 
> 
> 
> One, I should have double checked my order, as I forgot the second SATA power cable for my HDD. I also forgot to order custom SATA data cables, and I should have ordered a double MOLEX instead of the single, considering my plan was to rig up the NZXT HUE+ and I'm already using one Molex for the fan controller. I'm out of Molex splitters...it's been so long since I needed one.


I feel your pain when it comes to molex splitters. I've got quite a few in my arc mini. Ran out mid build but luckily I have a frys relatively near by.


----------



## JackCY

Why not just hardwire it without connectors, those old damn molex are huge and the worst connector ever made for PC.
---
Cages... hmmm... "3M Scotch 4010 Permanent Clear Mounting Tape" stack the drives on top of each other


----------



## Jyve

I probably could have. I got some single and dual leds for my cpu and gpu blocks. Also a couple rgb strips. Decided to go all molex and used molex to sata power for the ssd's.

Next tear down I might look for better options.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> The 5.25" and 3.5" drive cages are removable by design, however the positions are not interchangeable. You could however use 5.25" to 3.5" adapters to install HDDs in the 5.25" bays.


I found this picture here, If I took out the bottom drive cage is it possible for another 5 drive cage to fit in its place? or possibly another 3 drive cage below it? that seems a little to tight of a fit for the 3 drive cage though



http://imgur.com/YAPFhhU


----------



## JackCY

I think 11 total would fit, if you use 2 separate cages then 5+5 should fit, you can measure it from pictures, drill the holes, but good luck buying a spare 5 bay cage. Might wanna consider external options.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I think 11 total would fit, if you use 2 separate cages then 5+5 should fit, you can measure it from pictures, drill the holes, but good luck buying a spare 5 bay cage. Might wanna consider external options.


I've got the 5 drive cage from my R4 I could use, from the way it looks the cages are identical. External isn't really an option running a 10 drive raid array

@Fractal , can you confirm this?


----------



## roman16

Hello guys,

I'm rather new here but I really need some advice on my new rig.
My case is Fractal Design Nano S and is equipped with 6700K CPU and EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 GPU (air cooling style)

I have two 140mm intake fans in the front and one 120mm exhaust fan in the rear.
Under the full load the temperature of my GPU is acceptable - about 80 Celsius. To help GPU breathing I even bought an SFX PSU so the gap between the GPU and the PSU is more than enough.

What really bothers me is the temperature of the motherboard and SSDs. It reaches 50 Celsius when my GPU is under full load which I find rather unacceptable.
I wonder if there is anything I could do to improve the situation without selling my GPU and buying blower style one.

Thanks.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I found this picture here, If I took out the bottom drive cage is it possible for another 5 drive cage to fit in its place? or possibly another 3 drive cage below it? that seems a little to tight of a fit for the 3 drive cage though
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/YAPFhhU


Got totally mixed up back there and was thinking of the R4 for some reason. Gotta get my head back in the game here...

In the R5, yes you absolutely can mount the HDD cages at the top after removing the ODD cage as shown in the image you linked. It's the R4 that has fixed drive cage positions. Sorry I misspoke.

I typically only have my head in the clouds on Fridays but I was ahead of schedule this week.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roman16*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I'm rather new here but I really need some advice on my new rig.
> My case is Fractal Design Nano S and is equipped with 6700K CPU and EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 GPU (air cooling style)
> 
> I have two 140mm intake fans in the front and one 120mm exhaust fan in the rear.
> Under the full load the temperature of my GPU is acceptable - about 80 Celsius. To help GPU breathing I even bought an SFX PSU so the gap between the GPU and the PSU is more than enough.
> 
> What really bothers me is the temperature of the motherboard and SSDs. It reaches 50 Celsius when my GPU is under full load which I find rather unacceptable.
> I wonder if there is anything I could do to improve the situation without selling my GPU and buying blower style one.
> 
> Thanks.


Is your motherboard set to a silent fan profile? You might check in the bios to see if there's a more optimal setting for keeping ambient temps low.


----------



## mypickaxe

I am getting there, almost where I want to be with my Define Nano S build.

As it turns out, I forgot the Predator 240 has a spare fan header. I removed the Asus fan extension and plugged the NZXT Hue+ into the molex.

I also found a compatible USB cable which I am running outside the case into one of the USB ports on the back of the motherboard. I need to drill a hole in the back near the side panel so that it's a clean run, but I now have the NZXT HUE+ up and running. There's a lot of space to store it behind the bottom panel (side panel where the cables are tucked away.)

When I was scrounging for that USB cable, I found a couple of braided SATA data cables. I need to order a dark or blood red braided cable to match.

Here's one daytime shot with the candle effect active. I like all of the RGB options available in the CAM software.

I'm thinking of doing something with UV reactive die, just for fun. Any suggestions? I don't want to swap the tubing out, just want to liven it up a little in the reservoir.


----------



## roman16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Is your motherboard set to a silent fan profile? You might check in the bios to see if there's a more optimal setting for keeping ambient temps low.


I tried that. I also tried to tune fans for negative pressure to expedite removing heat from the case but still the same. It seems like the heat from GPU goes into the space where SSDs are located and heats them and also motherboard since the left side panel is rather warm.

I wonder why I experience this problem. I've seen several builds which are essentially the same and there were no complains at all.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mypickaxe*
> 
> I am getting there, almost where I want to be with my Define Nano S build.
> 
> As it turns out, I forgot the Predator 240 has a spare fan header. I removed the Asus fan extension and plugged the NZXT Hue+ into the molex.
> 
> I also found a compatible USB cable which I am running outside the case into one of the USB ports on the back of the motherboard. I need to drill a hole in the back near the side panel so that it's a clean run, but I now have the NZXT HUE+ up and running. There's a lot of space to store it behind the bottom panel (side panel where the cables are tucked away.)
> 
> When I was scrounging for that USB cable, I found a couple of braided SATA data cables. I need to order a dark or blood red braided cable to match.
> 
> Here's one daytime shot with the candle effect active. I like all of the RGB options available in the CAM software.
> 
> I'm thinking of doing something with UV reactive die, just for fun. Any suggestions? I don't want to swap the tubing out, just want to liven it up a little in the reservoir.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nighttime:





Daytime:


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Is your motherboard set to a silent fan profile? You might check in the bios to see if there's a more optimal setting for keeping ambient temps low.


Ha that's alright. If I take out the bottom cage shown in that picture could the 5 drive cage from the R4 fit in its place?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roman16*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I'm rather new here but I really need some advice on my new rig.
> My case is Fractal Design Nano S and is equipped with 6700K CPU and EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 GPU (air cooling style)
> 
> I have two 140mm intake fans in the front and one 120mm exhaust fan in the rear.
> Under the full load the temperature of my GPU is acceptable - about 80 Celsius. To help GPU breathing I even bought an SFX PSU so the gap between the GPU and the PSU is more than enough.
> 
> What really bothers me is the temperature of the motherboard and SSDs. It reaches 50 Celsius when my GPU is under full load which I find rather unacceptable.
> I wonder if there is anything I could do to improve the situation without selling my GPU and buying blower style one.
> 
> Thanks.


It's a tiny case of course everything is gonna heat up and heat builds inside the case and your GPU is not blowing the hot air outside instead it's doing so inside the case.
Motherboard cooling on tiny boards may not be as good as on big ones but 50C is nothing to worry about from my POV.
Dunno what and where your SSD is, it can go from 30c to 80C for high performance SSDs or stuck under GPU on the mobo.

All you can do is increase airflow in the case is all.


----------



## zetruz

Hey guys!
I'm currently picking parts for a friend's new build, and it seems to come down to either the Define R5 (Blackout Edition) or the Define S. It seems he might want a water cooling system for the CPU, where I would insist the radiator is mounted as an intake at the front of the case. (Two 140mm fans.) I have a couple of questions about this.
See, I think I would rather recommend the R5 as it seems to have better noise dampening in the front, and perhaps even better access to air for the front intake? Anyway, I _think_ this would mean that he can't use any of the hard drive bays. (I would prefer a 120mm fan in the bottom as a further intake anyway, for guaranteed positive air pressure. The PSU will be 180mm long.) The problem is that he currently has one hard drive and one 2.5" SSD. I don't know what form factor the hard drive is, I'll have to ask him, but I'm not sure I would want a hard drive mounted behind the motherboard anyway? Due to the heat? I would _prefer_ it mounted in the optical drive bay, and my question is how one does that without too much hassle and without causing many vibrations?
Any and all general thoughts on the dilemma could and would help, and would be very much appreciated!

Thank you guys in advance for any support. =)


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zetruz*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I'm currently picking parts for a friend's new build, and it seems to come down to either the Define R5 (Blackout Edition) or the Define S.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It seems he might want a water cooling system for the CPU, where I would insist the radiator is mounted as an intake at the front of the case. (Two 140mm fans.) I have a couple of questions about this.
> See, I think I would rather recommend the R5 as it seems to have better noise dampening in the front, and perhaps even better access to air for the front intake? Anyway, I _think_ this would mean that he can't use any of the hard drive bays. (I would prefer a 120mm fan in the bottom as a further intake anyway, for guaranteed positive air pressure. The PSU will be 180mm long.) The problem is that he currently has one hard drive and one 2.5" SSD. I don't know what form factor the hard drive is, I'll have to ask him, but I'm not sure I would want a hard drive mounted behind the motherboard anyway? Due to the heat? I would _prefer_ it mounted in the optical drive bay, and my question is how one does that without too much hassle and without causing many vibrations?
> Any and all general thoughts on the dilemma could and would help, and would be very much appreciated!
> 
> Thank you guys in advance for any support. =)


I'd lean towards an S if I were considering water cooling and did not need/want an optical drive.

On the back side of the case behind the MoBo the S will hold three 3.5 inch or 2.5 inch HDDs plus space for two 2.5" SSDs I think HDDs do fine when you get them away from the other heat sources.


----------



## zetruz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I'd lean towards an S if I were considering water cooling and did not need/want an optical drive.
> 
> On the back side of the case behind the MoBo the S will hold three 3.5 inch or 2.5 inch HDDs plus space for two 2.5" SSDs I think HDDs do fine when you get them away from the other heat sources.


Mm, I'm aware. It's just a matter of priorities. I don't think he'll need the added radiator space granted by the loss of the optical drive bays, so that doesn't really make a difference. It is true, however, that it's more future-proof if he wants to go ham on more advanced water cooling in the future. Hnnnghh...


----------



## Dan-H

The S is on sale at Newegg for $60 right now... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352054&Tpk=N82E16811352054

Other minor things on the S are only two USB 3.0 on the front/top panel vs two USB 2.0 and two USB 3.0 on the R5.
Also no built-in fan controller switch (which I think is simply a 5V/7V/12V switch from SATA power.


----------



## JackCY

R5 is better except the cages, S has a panel to mount and not cages which is better for me personally and gives better airflow. S is an R4 and R5 hybrid that has been stripped down.


----------



## zetruz

Are the front panels interchangeable? Can one buy an R5 front and plop it on an S model?
And while I'm at it, are the sides interchangeable? The windowed R5 has a smaller window than the S, and I'm not sure which he'd prefer.
And thanks for the input! =)


----------



## Dan-H

I don't think you can mix and match things, nor would it be cost effective to do so.

I am curious why water for just the CPU? Why not one of the huge monster air coolers like the Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Noctua NH15 or one of the seven others listed here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/9415/top-tier-cpu-air-coolers-9way-roundup-review

I think Custom loops are really cool ( I guess that was a Freudian pun ) but they are more work and more money.

Just sayin...


----------



## zetruz

My air suggestion is a Noctua cooler, but he wants water cooling because, well, because he just wants it. Because it's nice. And while I shouldn't say money is no object, he's certainly got enough to do pretty crazy things. Currently he's looking at something like a 6700K (or a 7700K depending on when he upgrades), a GTX 1080 (plus another one sometime next year for SLI), and an ASUS ROG P279Q monitor. So the mixing and matching not being cost-effective is a really minor issue here.
Custom loops are cool, but I'm scared of them since I've never tried it. If he wants to go that route, then it really is significantly more money. We'll see what he says, I suppose.


----------



## Ithanul

If going custom for first time. Research, research, research.

Otherwise, one will have a huge headache of a time. But going just CPU is a good stepping stone since you are only dealing with one block and cooling one piece of hardware. Though, by what I notice current CPUs don't really benefit from water unless you put a continuous load on them or clock them very high and want to keep temps low without having fans making a whole lot of racket. GPUs on the other hand greatly benefit from water cooling even with just an AIO smacked on them.


----------



## Freeze311

Wow I never knew there was a fractal Design Case Club. I recently built out a Fractal Design R5 case blackout windowless edition after 6 years of having the same PC so I did a little splurging, (I deserved it I've been a good boy.)

Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII ROG Hero Z170
CPU: Core i7 6700k @ 4.7ghz
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 1x 150mm Noctua fan in between dual towers with Coollaboratory liquid metal ultra TIM
PSU: Seasonic Prime Flagship 750 watt 80+ Titanium
GPU: Sapphire Nitro+ 8GB RX480 @ stable 1435 Mhz repasted with coollaboratory liquid metal TIM
NO HARD DISK DRIVES all hard disk drive cages removed to un obstruct airflow
SSD: Samsung 850 pro 2TB mounted on rear tray (may be doubling capacity with a Samsung 960 pro 2TB m2 NVME drive) I know TLC drives are much better value but i personally only trust 2 bit per cell nand
RAM: 2x16GB 32GB total DDR4 G Skill Trident Z 3400 Mhz voltage increased from stock 1.2V to 1.35V to accommodate cas latency going from 16 to 14
Soundcard: Asus Essence STX II (even with the great onboard sound on rog boards the sound clarity and detail is night and day it blows it away + has native RCA outs and 1/4" Headphone out with powerful Amp enough for effortless 600 ohm resistance)
Fans: 2x Fractal Dynamic GP14 blackout front intakes, Same fan on the side moduvent blowing onto gpu, Same fan on rear exhaust for a total of 4x 140mm case fans and 1x 150mm CPU fan
Top 5.25" Bay: Asus dual USB 3.1 gen 2 type C 2 ports left port supports 100 watt power, connected via sata express for 10gbit speed and 2 molex connectors for charging power. And of course it still has all the front ports the r5 normally comes with 2x type A 3.0 and 2x type A 2.0 for a new grand total of 6x front USB ports and the front panel audio jacks which are connected to the asus card and not the onboard sound.
Bottom 5.25" Bay: Pioneer 16x BD-RW drive with support for 128GB quad layer BDXL as well as dual layer 16x DVD-RW and regular 48x CD-RW

Monitor: ViewSonic XG2701 27" 144hz 1920 x 1080 Freesync 1ms G to G (yes it is only a TN panel not IPS but it is not your average cheap PoS TN panel and has Viewing angles and color shift very near IPS. Pivot, Height, Swivel, and Tilt adjustments to get the perfect angle nullifying the tiny amount of TN color shift even present. There is a lot of hate out there for TN panels but you get what you pay for this monitor was more expensive than a lot of IPS monitors even http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83TX0324 give it a look it's a great gaming monitor with incredibly low input lag and incredibly fast pixel response. Really makes for a smooth gaming experience. It also has very good black level detail and you can really distinguish the slightest changes in darkness which really increases visibility in dark areas of games. Why only 1080 you ask? Well my last pc had a 2560x1600 dell u3011 which was a great monitor but you have to rely on software scaling things properly or you quickly get eye fatigue looking at such small text. 1920x1080 at 27" allows me to not have to rely on proper scaling and it doesn't hurt my eyes. I would need a 34-36 inch 2560x1440 for the same no scaling effect whch isn't practical. I find no real increase in gaming enjoymeny going from 1080 to 1440 but i did get an increase in ejoyment going from 60hz to 144hz. It's much easier getting those fast 120+ fps frame rates on a 1080p monitor and thats more important than a little more resolution to me.

Overall the PC is a complete joy to use. You click and it responds. Almost every other PC I touch now is intolerable to use I can't stand waiting for stuff even just a few seconds when I'm used to instant gratification now. It's also just about as dead silent as a PC can be. You can have the thing right next to your bed downloading and uploading torrents all night and not even notice it's there. But now with kaby lake coming out if I can find a buyer for the motherboard and CPU and only have to pony up an extra 100-150 i may upgrade plus that gives me the excuse to meticulously clean the interior while I do the swap so we'll see. Looks like intel's 14nm process has matured and a 5ghz big air overclock looks feasible which makes me want to do it. 5 Ghz is sch a nice round number has a certain ring to it.

Oh I forgot the keyboard and mouse. I use a razer naga hex mouse as it's the most convenient mouse when i'm playing league of legends it helps me to combo out quicker. And I have this very strange asian manufacturer mechanical keyboard due to it's incredibly compact footprint so i have room on my desk for more things and the mechanical keys really are a joy to type on. Check this keyboard out I am truly in love with it. They have brown type mechanical switches. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA34T3N87635 No wasted space and great responsive backlit mechanical keys.

Sorry if I typed too much I just am excited to find a fractal case club i love their cases so much. The sound deadening foam does such a good job and their dynamic series GP14 fans produce so much air even at silent rpm's they are such high quality. Maybe even better than some noctua fans honestly.

What fractal fans are better the 140mm silent series r2 fans or the 140mm dynamic series gp14 fans? Which fans can move more air before they lose their silence?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freeze311*
> 
> Wow I never knew there was a fractal Design Case Club. I recently built out a Fractal Design R5 case blackout windowless edition after 6 years of having the same PC so I did a little splurging,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> (I deserved it I've been a good boy.)
> 
> Mobo: Asus Maximus VIII ROG Hero Z170
> CPU: Core i7 6700k @ 4.7ghz
> CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 1x 150mm Noctua fan in between dual towers with Coollaboratory liquid metal ultra TIM
> PSU: Seasonic Prime Flagship 750 watt 80+ Titanium
> GPU: Sapphire Nitro+ 8GB RX480 @ stable 1435 Mhz repasted with coollaboratory liquid metal TIM
> NO HARD DISK DRIVES all hard disk drive cages removed to un obstruct airflow
> SSD: Samsung 850 pro 2TB mounted on rear tray (may be doubling capacity with a Samsung 960 pro 2TB m2 NVME drive) I know TLC drives are much better value but i personally only trust 2 bit per cell nand
> RAM: 2x16GB 32GB total DDR4 G Skill Trident Z 3400 Mhz voltage increased from stock 1.2V to 1.35V to accommodate cas latency going from 16 to 14
> Soundcard: Asus Essence STX II (even with the great onboard sound on rog boards the sound clarity and detail is night and day it blows it away + has native RCA outs and 1/4" Headphone out with powerful Amp enough for effortless 600 ohm resistance)
> Fans: 2x Fractal Dynamic GP14 blackout front intakes, Same fan on the side moduvent blowing onto gpu, Same fan on rear exhaust for a total of 4x 140mm case fans and 1x 150mm CPU fan
> Top 5.25" Bay: Asus dual USB 3.1 gen 2 type C 2 ports left port supports 100 watt power, connected via sata express for 10gbit speed and 2 molex connectors for charging power. And of course it still has all the front ports the r5 normally comes with 2x type A 3.0 and 2x type A 2.0 for a new grand total of 6x front USB ports and the front panel audio jacks which are connected to the asus card and not the onboard sound.
> Bottom 5.25" Bay: Pioneer 16x BD-RW drive with support for 128GB quad layer BDXL as well as dual layer 16x DVD-RW and regular 48x CD-RW
> 
> Monitor: ViewSonic XG2701 27" 144hz 1920 x 1080 Freesync 1ms G to G (yes it is only a TN panel not IPS but it is not your average cheap PoS TN panel and has Viewing angles and color shift very near IPS. Pivot, Height, Swivel, and Tilt adjustments to get the perfect angle nullifying the tiny amount of TN color shift even present. There is a lot of hate out there for TN panels but you get what you pay for this monitor was more expensive than a lot of IPS monitors even http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83TX0324 give it a look it's a great gaming monitor with incredibly low input lag and incredibly fast pixel response. Really makes for a smooth gaming experience. It also has very good black level detail and you can really distinguish the slightest changes in darkness which really increases visibility in dark areas of games. Why only 1080 you ask? Well my last pc had a 2560x1600 dell u3011 which was a great monitor but you have to rely on software scaling things properly or you quickly get eye fatigue looking at such small text. 1920x1080 at 27" allows me to not have to rely on proper scaling and it doesn't hurt my eyes. I would need a 34-36 inch 2560x1440 for the same no scaling effect whch isn't practical. I find no real increase in gaming enjoymeny going from 1080 to 1440 but i did get an increase in ejoyment going from 60hz to 144hz. It's much easier getting those fast 120+ fps frame rates on a 1080p monitor and thats more important than a little more resolution to me.
> 
> Overall the PC is a complete joy to use. You click and it responds. Almost every other PC I touch now is intolerable to use I can't stand waiting for stuff even just a few seconds when I'm used to instant gratification now. It's also just about as dead silent as a PC can be. You can have the thing right next to your bed downloading and uploading torrents all night and not even notice it's there. But now with kaby lake coming out if I can find a buyer for the motherboard and CPU and only have to pony up an extra 100-150 i may upgrade plus that gives me the excuse to meticulously clean the interior while I do the swap so we'll see. Looks like intel's 14nm process has matured and a 5ghz big air overclock looks feasible which makes me want to do it. 5 Ghz is sch a nice round number has a certain ring to it.
> 
> Oh I forgot the keyboard and mouse. I use a razer naga hex mouse as it's the most convenient mouse when i'm playing league of legends it helps me to combo out quicker. And I have this very strange asian manufacturer mechanical keyboard due to it's incredibly compact footprint so i have room on my desk for more things and the mechanical keys really are a joy to type on. Check this keyboard out I am truly in love with it. They have brown type mechanical switches. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA34T3N87635 No wasted space and great responsive backlit mechanical keys.
> 
> 
> Sorry if I typed too much I just am excited to find a fractal case club i love their cases so much. The sound deadening foam does such a good job and their dynamic series GP14 fans produce so much air even at silent rpm's they are such high quality. Maybe even better than some noctua fans honestly.
> 
> What fractal fans are better the 140mm silent series r2 fans or the 140mm dynamic series gp14 fans? Which fans can move more air before they lose their silence?


Welcome to the club. There are several "clubs" for the various components.

Over in the air cooling forum is a great thread focused on fans, and another excellent thread on ways to better air cooling.

Based on the advice I've gotten, I would add a bottom fan, raise the case up a little to get more air in the bottom, and remove the rear PCI slots so the warm air can get out easier. I don't have a suggestion for fans. I'm using four of the GP14s. two front intake, one bottom intake and one exhaust. I have hard drives so my system is not silent, and under load my CPU fans spin up a bit so the case fans are not loud enough to be heard.

You should checkout "rigbuilder" and put all the parts that you have in, along with pictures. Makes for a great starting point when asking questions.


----------



## Freeze311

I'll take pictures when I clean it out and sell the mobo/cpu combo on ebay to replace it with kaby lake equivalents.

Does anyone have experience with both of fractal fans the 140mm silent series r2 and 140mm dynamic series gp14?

Are you sure the bottom spot is better? Over at silentpcreview.com adding the bottom fan gave them no colder temps and slightly raised the noise. Isn't the best thing for the gpu to have fresh air drowning it since it is the noisiest component of the entire build?

And if anyone has any questions about the 2x usb 3.1 gen 2 type C ports with 1 with full 100 watt power delivery I am your man. I really feel that the missing front type c gen 2 ports were the only thing holding this case back from 5 star rating and it's easy to correct it.

Oh, and the only problem with camera is I'm holding on to a cheap alcatel phone right now. I was so sure with apple on a non S upgrade we would get a major chassis overhaul and finally get OLED screens. Looks like that won't be haooeninf unrik


----------



## intelsonic

Hi Guys,

Ive got a define nano s and I'm looking at trying to squeeze in a 1070 hof, I've got an sfx psu on the way but was just wondering if anyones had success putting in cards over 315mm or mounting 140mm fans externally without modding


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Freeze311*
> 
> Are you sure the bottom spot is better? Over at silentpcreview.com adding the bottom fan gave them no colder temps and slightly raised the noise. Isn't the best thing for the gpu to have fresh air drowning it since it is the noisiest component of the entire build?


Not sure it is better but it is quieter. The fans on my GTX 970 Twin Frozr are fairly quiet so my goal is to get the hot air out of the case. I had four intake fans at one point, but found three did just as well. and by covering the side modu-vent it was quieter.


----------



## GRUEK

Welcome bought housing R5, the body was indeed very quiet, but before the first start







) why so much pop coolers? the crackle of engines is heard very loudly. it's just I have a problem or not? and why is this body called soft? or need to throw regular coolers?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Ha that's alright. If I take out the bottom cage shown in that picture could the 5 drive cage from the R4 fit in its place?


It would take an awful lot of modding to put an R4 drive cage in an R5 since they mount in totally different ways. Is there a particular reason you're interested in setting it up that way?


----------



## Techbyte

In my Define Nano S I'm running 2x 140mm Venturi HF Series for intakes, 1x 120mm Venturi HF Series for exhaust, and 1x 120mm Venturi HP Series on my Noctua U12S.

Would it be worth it to install another 120mm Venturi HF series in the bottom of the case in front of the PSU? I am running a Corsair SF600 so there is plenty of room.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> In my Define Nano S I'm running 2x 140mm Venturi HF Series for intakes, 1x 120mm Venturi HF Series for exhaust, and 1x 120mm Venturi HP Series on my Noctua U12S.
> 
> Would it be worth it to install another 120mm Venturi HF series in the bottom of the case in front of the PSU? I am running a Corsair SF600 so there is plenty of room.


Probably not. I have a 120 down there but I only have one other 120mm for intake through a radiator, so it's needed. In your case I'd say no.


----------



## Susjeb46464

Hey Guys! I'm planning on doing my custom loop in the Define S. I have a question about radiator placement:

- Is it possible to fit a 280 radiator at the top (in/outlet facing back, but placing the rad to the front) and a 280 in the front (with in/outlet up) and still use the upper front fan (120/140mm dont care), and use the exaust fan at the back of the case?)

For the R5 Fractal made a nice table with all the possibilities now they only provide the sketch as in their manual.

I would love to use the front radiator in idle and set a temp trigger for the radiator at the top.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> It would take an awful lot of modding to put an R4 drive cage in an R5 since they mount in totally different ways. Is there a particular reason you're interested in setting it up that way?


I was planning on putting 10 drives into an R5 and I'd rather have them all in a drive cage because they will be attached to raid cards especially for cable management/airflow. I was hoping to remove the 5.25 bays and install the 5 drive cage to the top and the 5 drive cage from the R4 so it equals a total of 10 drives in front of the case. Here is a quick pic just to show you what I want to do.



http://imgur.com/GeMLK


Top 5 cage is in, bottom 3 comes out and the 5 drive cage from the R4 goes in its place?. It doesn't really bother me if they won't screw together as the weight of the drives will hold it in place. I'm more worried about clearance and making sure each cage is pretty much right next to each other if possible

EDIT** You know how long I was looking for an R4 windowed side panel! lol and could never find one


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> I was planning on putting 10 drives into an R5 and I'd rather have them all in a drive cage because they will be attached to raid cards especially for cable management/airflow. I was hoping to remove the 5.25 bays and install the 5 drive cage to the top and the 5 drive cage from the R4 so it equals a total of 10 drives in front of the case. Here is a quick pic just to show you what I want to do.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/GeMLK
> 
> 
> Top 5 cage is in, bottom 3 comes out and the 5 drive cage from the R4 goes in its place?. It doesn't really bother me if they won't screw together as the weight of the drives will hold it in place. I'm more worried about clearance and making sure each cage is pretty much right next to each other if possible
> 
> EDIT** You know how long I was looking for an R4 windowed side panel! lol and could never find one


The middle drive cage on the R4 fastens only to the other cages though, so if you tried to mount it in an R5 you'd not only be missing the right screw holes, you'd be missing the flanges the screw holes would have been in. Even if you did find a way to screw it down, I think it'd take considerably more effort than the extra CM needed to do a clean looking install with adapters in the ODD bays.


----------



## GoldenboyXD

Hi Guys, I am thinking of changing my PC case to the Core 500 and wanted to keep my Noctua NH-U14S (165mm) for my CPU cooler. This is the best single fan cooler I've used by the way...

I'm sure it will fit on to this case up to (170mm). I also plan on putting 2 x 140mm fans on top but i don't see any pics over the internet images with the similar build. I only saw a single fan on Front top side installed if there was a tall CPU cooler used.

Can someone confirm if it possible to install 2 x 140mm fans on top with a tall CPU cooler up to 165mm?


----------



## intermission

Just upgraded my case to a Define S and water cooled it. This case is such a dream to build in. I only have a 360 rad in there for now, I'm trying to figure out if I want to add another 360 or just a 240 up top.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> Just upgraded my case to a Define S and water cooled it. This case is such a dream to build in. I only have a 360 rad in there for now, I'm trying to figure out if I want to add another 360 or just a 240 up top.


You certainly can. I'm currently cooling a 4690k @ 4.4 and a 980ti @ 1485 with a single 240. It's cooking it just fine and super quiet. Sure another rad will bring the temps down a bit but is it really worth the extra dough? Maybe.


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> You certainly can. I'm currently cooling a 4690k @ 4.4 and a 980ti @ 1485 with a single 240. It's cooking it just fine and super quiet. Sure another rad will bring the temps down a bit but is it really worth the extra dough? Maybe.


I mean a single 360 does keep the temps safe and I only run the fans at %50 so it's quieter than the ambient noise in my apartment so technically I don't need another radiator, but technically I don't need most of the things I own. I'm just a big fan of overkill, and trying to fill up the case.

Having a computer this quiet is hard to get used to, I'm so used to hearing fans ramp up I keep thinking that something is messed up.


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> I mean a single 360 does keep the temps safe and I only run the fans at %50 so it's quieter than the ambient noise in my apartment so technically I don't need another radiator, but technically I don't need most of the things I own. I'm just a big fan of overkill, and trying to fill up the case.
> 
> Having a computer this quiet is hard to get used to, I'm so used to hearing fans ramp up I keep thinking that something is messed up.


Word up on overkill







I have my fans running @ 40%
All my fans are now ml120pro wich i think is fantastic (no pun intended)


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> The middle drive cage on the R4 fastens only to the other cages though, so if you tried to mount it in an R5 you'd not only be missing the right screw holes, you'd be missing the flanges the screw holes would have been in. Even if you did find a way to screw it down, I think it'd take considerably more effort than the extra CM needed to do a clean looking install with adapters in the ODD bays.


Hmmm alright. By some chance you wouldn't happen to know where I could get a R4 black windowed side panel? I ask the Fractal Facebook page but everywhere they said didn't have any. I'm guessing it's an EOL item now?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hmmm alright. By some chance you wouldn't happen to know where I could get a R4 black windowed side panel? I ask the Fractal Facebook page but everywhere they said didn't have any. I'm guessing it's an EOL item now?


there is always google...

https://keple.com/fractal-design-window-side-panel-define-r4.html/?currency=usd&gclid=CNLFh4v4y88CFUlNfgod2jMLHg


----------



## intermission

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stalefish*
> 
> Word up on overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my fans running @ 40%
> All my fans are now ml120pro wich i think is fantastic (no pun intended)


Aint no kill like overkill!

How thick is the radiator you have up top?


----------



## Stalefish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intermission*
> 
> Aint no kill like overkill!
> 
> How thick is the radiator you have up top?


The same as in the front 40mm!


----------



## Techbyte

This is my Define Nano S build.



I went with a Corsair SF600 power supply to allow better airflow for the GPU. My entire system can't even push it to 50% load so it is still silent. The only downfall was the stock cables. They were way too short. So I ended up just picking up a set of CableMod cables for it. I also swapped out the stock fans for some Fractal Venturis. This thing is damn near silent.

Overall I really like this case. I went with the non-windowed version for better noise isolation and because I planned to put it in my desks cubby. (The cubby has no door or rear paneling)


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> there is always google...
> 
> https://keple.com/fractal-design-window-side-panel-define-r4.html/?currency=usd&gclid=CNLFh4v4y88CFUlNfgod2jMLHg


That was an option until shipping made it a total of $112. I can buy a R5 for $160


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

Fractal Define S
ASUS z170-a
I7-6700k
32 gigs corsair dominator
gtx 980
rosewill quark 1200w modular pse

ek 360mm rad front placed
ek acetal block
pump is phobya pwm replaced ek - ddc 100m, pump\res combo
res is alphacool 150mm

next purchase is another 360mm rad for top - mount
1080 with waterblock and backplate
hardline tubing with all monsoon rigid compression fittings

here is my build currently:


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> That was an option until shipping made it a total of $112. I can buy a R5 for $160


OUCH. Sorry I didn't notice the shipping.


----------



## Coroner117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> This is my Define Nano S build.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a Corsair SF600 power supply to allow better airflow for the GPU. My entire system can't even push it to 50% load so it is still silent. The only downfall was the stock cables. They were way too short. So I ended up just picking up a set of CableMod cables for it. I also swapped out the stock fans for some Fractal Venturis. This thing is damn near silent.
> 
> Overall I really like this case. I went with the non-windowed version for better noise isolation and because I planned to put it in my desks cubby. (The cubby has no door or rear paneling)


Damn, that is one _clean_ build. I actually went back to the picture to confirm that it was the Nano S since there is *so much room* for the GPU. Smart idea to go with an SFX PSU although it surprises me that the cables weren't long enough in a mini ITX case. Mind if I ask what the specs are and how they perform under load (thermally speaking)?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> This is my Define Nano S build.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a Corsair SF600 power supply to allow better airflow for the GPU. My entire system can't even push it to 50% load so it is still silent. The only downfall was the stock cables. They were way too short. So I ended up just picking up a set of CableMod cables for it. I also swapped out the stock fans for some Fractal Venturis. This thing is damn near silent.
> 
> Overall I really like this case. I went with the non-windowed version for better noise isolation and because I planned to put it in my desks cubby. (The cubby has no door or rear paneling)


Beautiful build!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coroner117*
> 
> Damn, that is one _clean_ build. I actually went back to the picture to confirm that it was the Nano S since there is *so much room* for the GPU. Smart idea to go with an SFX PSU although it surprises me that the cables weren't long enough in a mini ITX case. Mind if I ask what the specs are and how they perform under load (thermally speaking)?


I have the SF450 and while the cables aren't the longest, the Nano S isn't exactly "nano".


----------



## Dimensive

For anyone interested in the Nano S, the windowed version is on sale for $39.99 after rebate at Newegg.

Source: http://www.overclock.net/t/1613194/newegg-fractal-design-nano-s-window-39-99-mir-promo/


----------



## Coroner117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I have the SF450 and while the cables aren't the longest, the Nano S isn't exactly "nano".


That's true. It's one of the biggest mini ITX cases around.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coroner117*
> 
> Damn, that is one _clean_ build. I actually went back to the picture to confirm that it was the Nano S since there is *so much room* for the GPU. Smart idea to go with an SFX PSU although it surprises me that the cables weren't long enough in a mini ITX case. Mind if I ask what the specs are and how they perform under load (thermally speaking)?


Here are the specs.

MOBO: Msi H110i Pro
CPU: Intel i5 6500
RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2133 (8GB x 2)
GPU: XFX RX 480 GTR Black Edition
PSU: Corsair SF600
SSD: HyperX Predator M.2 PCIe 2.0 x 4 (240GB) and Samsung 850 Evo (1TB)
HSF: Noctua U12S w/ Fractal Venturi HP-12 PWM

Fans: 1x Fractal Venturi HF-12 (Rear Exhaust) and 2x Fractal Venturi HF-14 (Front Intake)

I went with a RX 480 over a GTX 1060 because I have a LG 29UM68-P 29" 2560x1080 IPS 75hz FreeSync Display

Thermal performance in my build is great. My GPU tops out at 74c with the Core at 1400mhz / 1175mv and the Memory at 8400mhz / 1025mv. Up 5c over stock clocks. (1340/8000)
My i5 6500 runs crazy cool but it is only a 65w Skylake CPU. Idles at 26c and I have yet to see it go over 56c at full load.
I like to keep my PC nice and quiet so my fan curves are far from aggressive. I live in Wisconsin and it is pretty much 70f (21c) in my house year round. (Central Air / Gas Heat)

On a side note, my Motherboard, CPU, and Ram are all place holders. Kaby Lake and Zen are right around the corner so I thought it best to wait. My Mom has been wanting me to build her a small PC to replace her aging laptop so these are going to go in her build.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Hmmm alright. By some chance you wouldn't happen to know where I could get a R4 black windowed side panel? I ask the Fractal Facebook page but everywhere they said didn't have any. I'm guessing it's an EOL item now?


The R4 isn't EOL, but still it unfortunately may not be easy finding a replacement windowed panel for the R4 in your region without substantial shipping costs, as I'm sure you've seen. One bit of advice I can share on your search is that the windowed side panels for the Define S and Arc Midi R2 also fit the R4 if you happen to run across those parts (though the Midi lacks sound dampening). Wish there was more I could do to help.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> Here are the specs.
> 
> MOBO: Msi H110i Pro
> CPU: Intel i5 6500
> RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 2133 (8GB x 2)
> GPU: XFX RX 480 GTR Black Edition
> PSU: Corsair SF600
> SSD: HyperX Predator M.2 PCIe 2.0 x 4 (240GB) and Samsung 850 Evo (1TB)
> HSF: Noctua U12S w/ Fractal Venturi HP-12 PWM
> 
> Fans: 1x Fractal Venturi HF-12 (Rear Exhaust) and 2x Fractal Venturi HF-14 (Front Intake)
> 
> I went with a RX 480 over a GTX 1060 because I have a LG 29UM68-P 29" 2560x1080 IPS 75hz FreeSync Display
> 
> Thermal performance in my build is great. My GPU tops out at 74c with the Core at 1400mhz / 1175mv and the Memory at 8400mhz / 1025mv. Up 5c over stock clocks. (1340/8000)
> My i5 6500 runs crazy cool but it is only a 65w Skylake CPU. Idles at 26c and I have yet to see it go over 56c at full load.
> I like to keep my PC nice and quiet so my fan curves are far from aggressive. I live in Wisconsin and it is pretty much 70f (21c) in my house year round. (Central Air / Gas Heat)
> 
> On a side note, my Motherboard, CPU, and Ram are all place holders. Kaby Lake and Zen are right around the corner so I thought it best to wait. My Mom has been wanting me to build her a small PC to replace her aging laptop so these are going to go in her build.


Kind of curious about your 480. Just watched jays2cents video about the xfx. His certainly seemed to be cherry picked. How's yours as far as power draw, temps, and overclocking. His was overclocked to like 1475 about 130w @ 1.175v all at around 64c. Stock was like 1280mhz, 87w @ 1.05v at 60c.

From what I've seen that certainly looks like a golden card.


----------



## geoxile

Has anyone experience the HDD cages shaking in the Define R5? I'm considering going from my current Xigmatek Elysium to the Define R5 to save some space and some reviews on newegg and amazon seemed to indicate their HDD cages would rattle and make noise.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Has anyone experience the HDD cages shaking in the Define R5? I'm considering going from my current Xigmatek Elysium to the Define R5 to save some space and some reviews on newegg and amazon seemed to indicate their HDD cages would rattle and make noise.


I only have the smaller cage installed at the bottom, but no shaking. I have one really noisy 2009 vintage WD Caviar black that I can hear and the next time I trip over some money I might replace it but the only noise I can hear from my R5 at idle is this one HDD.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Kind of curious about your 480. Just watched jays2cents video about the xfx. His certainly seemed to be cherry picked. How's yours as far as power draw, temps, and overclocking. His was overclocked to like 1475 about 130w @ 1.175v all at around 64c. Stock was like 1280mhz, 87w @ 1.05v at 60c.
> 
> From what I've seen that certainly looks like a golden card.


His was definitely an ultra binned, golden sample. I have had two GTR Black Editions. The first one I returned due to a ticky fan and horrible overclocker.

My first one couldn't even hit 1400mhz. My second one was much better, but not nearly as good as Jays. I can hold 1400mhz @ 1175mv stress testing all day. It also undervolts pretty well. 1350mhz at 1100mv rock solid.

I found that my best bet is 1350mhz @ 1100mv and 8500mhz on the memory at 1025mv. Anything above 8500mhz results in memory errors shown in Hwinfo. At 1400mhz I have to turn the memory down to 8400mhz to avoid memory errors. I honestly don't notice any difference between 1350/8500 and 1400/8400. I lock / cap my FPS at 75 though because I have a LG 29" 2560x1080 IPS 75hz FreeSync Display. Iv'e had no issues holding 75fps in all of my games.

EDIT:
Core 1350 @ 1100mv / Memory 8500 @ 1025mv my temps top out at 64c. Stock was 69c. 1400/8400 was 74c. These temps are stress testing, gaming temps are lower.


----------



## Techbyte

Does anyone know where to get tailed LEDs for the Define Nano S? I have found the 3mm tailed LEDs and the Define Nano S uses this for the HDD activity. However, the power button uses a 2x5x7mm rectangle LED. I can only find these in bags of 100 on Amazon. Only $8 but I need 1, not 100. lol. I want to swap my stock blue LEDs for white.


----------



## JackCY

Tailed? What is that.

I simply fixed additional LED to my R4 power button to show both power and HDD activity. You can take any LED you like and glue it to some transparent part you want to illuminate. You could even get RGBs, I did, but it's hard to found out what kind you need as it depends on mobo if you want to use 1 RGB LED to show 2 states, best is to measure the mobo to see what RGB LED type you need for that.

You don't need a specific LED, first it's hard to remove if it's stuck or glued into a slot, so just leave it there and attach a new one elsewhere with glue = hot glue, transparent silicon, etc.



2 LEDs used.

You can file, matte, etc. the LEDs to your desired shape and transparency.


----------



## st0necold

Does anyone here have a R5 with 3way SLI? Trying to add another 980ti but i'm not seeing how it's possible in this case (last pcie slot is too close to PSU.)


----------



## HardheadedMurphy

slight modification and add a riser cable?


----------



## JackCY

Depends on your mobo slot positions, how thick GPUs you have, how high PSU, ...

In R4 I could put it on the sidepanel intake with a raiser if need be.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Tailed? What is that.
> 
> I simply fixed additional LED to my R4 power button to show both power and HDD activity.


Not a bad idea. What I meant by "tailed" was pre-wired. I can find tailed 3mm LEDs all over. I was just seeing if anyone knew where to get one.

I am familiar with the wicked adhesive stuff they use. I simply took a razor blade and carefully removed it from not only the back sides of the LEDs so I could remove them, but also from the Audio header on the I/O. I removed the audio cable as I knew I would never use it anyways. It plugs into a header just like on the motherboard. So I can put it back on if need be.

I'm looking for one of these:

2x5x7 LED (Power Button)

https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-100pcs-Emitting-Rectangle-Square/dp/B01C5HL0YA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476494257&sr=8-1&keywords=2x5x7+led+white

"Tailed" like one of these

3mm LED Tailed (HDD Activity)

https://www.amazon.com/smart-Tailed-Mobo-Header-Connector/dp/B01LFTT5NW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476494273&sr=8-1&keywords=3mm+LED+white+tailed

I think I am just going to order the bag of 100 and be done with it. It's pretty cheap. I will just use the stock cable on the case and swap the LED on it.


----------



## JackCY

I don't know about availability of LEDs with *long enough wires* and proper connector. I just get normal LEDs or already have them, solder on a cable I need and attach a connector if I don't have a cable with it already.
eBay is full of this stuff, just takes a while to arrive.

I then wrapped all the front panel cables same way PSU cables are so having the proper length equal to all other wires was key. That way I get one thicker cable instead of "10 tiny" ones running from the front panel.


----------



## FreeElectron

According to this.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcpartpicker.com | The Clean Machine(Unintended Gunmetal Build)*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also took a gamble on the compatibility with the define r5 recessed motherboard tray, I'm glad to say *it fits perfectly*.


The Fractal Design Define R5 is compatible with an SSI CEB motherboard (Asus X99-E WS).

Will the Fractal Design Define S also be compatible with the same motherboard (Asus X99-E WS)?
Do the two cases have identical motherboard tray?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> According to this.
> 
> The Fractal Design Define R5 is compatible with an SSI CEB motherboard (Asus X99-E WS).
> 
> Will the Fractal Design Define S also be compatible with the same motherboard (Asus X99-E WS)?
> Do the two cases have identical motherboard tray?


Define S only fits normal sized ATX motherboards, E-ATX or bigger would not fit. The Motherboard sits kinda down in a sunk in area, and if its any wider than a ATX it would hit the bent part that sinks it in where the cable passthrough is.


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Define S only fits normal sized ATX motherboards, E-ATX or bigger would not fit. The Motherboard sits kinda down in a sunk in area, and if its any wider than a ATX it would hit the bent part that sinks it in where the cable passthrough is.


Could you confirm after checking the referenced quote?


----------



## Ithanul

The Define S with its bend inside will not allow an E-ATX to lay flat.

I have one. It is the reason I need to get around and take a dremel to the case so I can fit that darn RIVBE in it.

Looking at ASUS main website on those boards. Yep, that X99-WS is not going to lay flat in it.

My RIVBE is 12inch x 10.7inch and it lays right on that bend with the grommets.
The X99-WS is 12inch x 10.5inch. That is not going to lay flat in there.


----------



## JackCY

Wait for R6 and S2, maybe Fractal will finally learn that that sinking the motherboard was a dumb idea and that there are a few people who do use EATX boards in midtower cases. I'm happy with my R4


----------



## intermission

So I was at micro center and decided I needed to add a 240mm radiator in the top. So I picked up an EK-CoolStream PE 240mm for the top. It honestly didn't drop the temps as much as I thought it would, but the temps did drop by about 10c for the cpu and 10-15 for the GPU.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Wait for R6 and S2, maybe Fractal will finally learn that that sinking the motherboard was a dumb idea and that there are a few people who do use EATX boards in midtower cases. I'm happy with my R4


I really like the sunk design, makes running the sata cables look good too. But I never run E-ATX boards either, even with the X79 and X99 platforms I've owned, all were ATX.


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Define S only fits normal sized ATX motherboards, E-ATX or bigger would not fit. The Motherboard sits kinda down in a sunk in area, and if its any wider than a ATX it would hit the bent part that sinks it in where the cable passthrough is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> The Define S with its bend inside will not allow an E-ATX to lay flat.
> 
> I have one. It is the reason I need to get around and take a dremel to the case so I can fit that darn RIVBE in it.
> 
> Looking at ASUS main website on those boards. Yep, that X99-WS is not going to lay flat in it.
> 
> My RIVBE is 12inch x 10.7inch and it lays right on that bend with the grommets.
> The X99-WS is 12inch x 10.5inch. That is not going to lay flat in there.



ATX standard is : 305 × 244
SSI CEB is 305 × 267
Asus X99-E WS is 305 x 267 (ATX +23mm, Exact CEB)
Asus Rampage IV Black Edition is 305 x 272 (ATX +28mm, CEB +5mm)
Both Fractal Design Define S and Fractal Design Define R5 have "sunk"/"recessed" motherboard tray
 
However, the Fractal Design Define R5 can house the Asus X99-E WS according to the previously referenced quote. (Check the quote url)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcpartpicker.com | The Clean Machine(Unintended Gunmetal Build)*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also took a gamble on the compatibility with the define r5 recessed motherboard tray, I'm glad to say *it fits perfectly*.



This means that if both the Define R5 and the Define S have the same motherboard tray design, then the Define S should also be able to house the Asus X99-E WS (CEB). And this is the part that i want confirmed.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreeElectron*
> 
> According to this.
> 
> The Fractal Design Define R5 is compatible with an SSI CEB motherboard (Asus X99-E WS).
> 
> Will the Fractal Design Define S also be compatible with the same motherboard (Asus X99-E WS)?
> Do the two cases have identical motherboard tray?


Negative, they do not have the same mobo area. The mobo tray on the Define S is smaller than that on the Define R5. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I've seen multiple people discuss that specific difference between the two.


----------



## Ithanul

If you want I can take a picture of where my RIVBE lays (I have yet to cut up the case). It only 0.2 inch longer than the ASUS X99-E WS.

I highly doubt that the ASUS X99-E WS will sit in there.

Actually here one pick I took of my RIVBE laying in the Define S. It lays right in the middle of that bend. I don't think a board that 0.2 inch shorter will have any better luck fitting in there.



Only way to fit a big board like that is to dremel that bend open. That is what I plan to do myself to put the RIVBE in there as I really have no issue with cutting up cases.


----------



## JackCY

Nothing a good old hammer won't fix








We need a reply bot for this EATX vs R5/S question








The answer being "dremel time".


----------



## FreeElectron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Negative, they do not have the same mobo area. The mobo tray on the Define S is smaller than that on the Define R5. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I've seen multiple people discuss that specific difference between the two.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> If you want I can take a picture of where my RIVBE lays (I have yet to cut up the case). It only 0.2 inch longer than the ASUS X99-E WS.
> 
> I highly doubt that the ASUS X99-E WS will sit in there.
> 
> Actually here one pick I took of my RIVBE laying in the Define S. It lays right in the middle of that bend. I don't think a board that 0.2 inch shorter will have any better luck fitting in there.
> 
> 
> 
> Only way to fit a big board like that is to dremel that bend open. That is what I plan to do myself to put the RIVBE in there as I really have no issue with cutting up cases.


Thanks for the answer


----------



## NFL

Any plans on releasing a white Nano?


----------



## Techbyte

I'm hoping for a Micro ATX version of the Define S / Nano S. Define Mini S?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> I'm hoping for a Micro ATX version of the Define S / Nano S. Define Mini S?


Long overdue.

While the Arc mini r2 is great for what it offers it is dated. Hopefully soon.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Any plans on releasing a white Nano?


Montana MTN 94 and Krylon are popular spray colors. Why limit yourself only to white









There is still the Define Mini? Remove cages and you get the "S" from it.


----------



## Dimensive

Newegg has a sale on some Fractal Design cases: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&Description=PPSSXHJOKNWLBD&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=36


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFL*
> 
> Any plans on releasing a white Nano?


Just hasn't been available as yet.

But here are some pics of how i looks.

http://www.itmedia.co.jp/pcuser/articles/1606/28/news024.html


----------



## dreamsINdigital

Define C and Define Mini C incoming. Leaked by a Spanish retailer. Details here:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/582rtd/new_fractal_design_cases_appear_on_spanish_eseller/


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreamsINdigital*
> 
> Define C and Define Mini C incoming. Leaked by a Spanish retailer. Details here:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/582rtd/new_fractal_design_cases_appear_on_spanish_eseller/


I like the C windowed a lot, but for me they took too long to get it out to combat the F31. But since most people puke on thier monitor when a Tt add appears and have to change thier pants when a Fractal add appears I bet the C does great at that price range.


----------



## Dimensive

Interesting, I like the Define Mini C a lot, but both seem limiting when it comes to 3.5" drive slots.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreamsINdigital*
> 
> Define C and Define Mini C incoming. Leaked by a Spanish retailer. Details here:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/582rtd/new_fractal_design_cases_appear_on_spanish_eseller/


At the time that I am writing this, the pics appear to have vanished.

At any rate, here are a few comments:

Fractal Design Define C

0x5.25" drive bays - Some people still use the ODD bays for things like card readers, fan controllers and even (gasp) ODD's. Why not removable? Yeah, you're paying a bit more, but then again, you're reaching a wider audience.

2x3.5"/2.5" bays - Why only 2? Maybe they are prepping for the future where there are no more mechanical hard drivers? However, many people still use HDD's. I can just hear it now, "If you want HDD's, just buy 2 of those Western Digital 10TB Gold hard drives (at $679.00 US at the time of this writing) and that should hold ya for a while."

Max PSU length: 175mm - Is this a misprint? Only 175mm? Really?!

0xUSB 3.1 C front connectors - Again, maybe they know something customers don't?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> At the time that I am writing this, the pics appear to have vanished.


Yea, they've been removed, but they're cached by Google.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Yea, they've been removed, but they're cached by Google.


Tried that... not sure how to search. Thanks...


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Tried that... not sure how to search. Thanks...


https://www.google.com/search?q=Fractal+Design+Define+C&newwindow=1&biw=1920&bih=925&source=lnt&tbs=cdr%3A1%2Ccd_min%3A10%2F17%2F2016%2Ccd_max%3A10%2F19%2F2016&tbm=isch


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=Fractal+Design+Define+C&newwindow=1&biw=1920&bih=925&source=lnt&tbs=cdr%3A1%2Ccd_min%3A10%2F17%2F2016%2Ccd_max%3A10%2F19%2F2016&tbm=isch


Did that very search and came up with nothing Define C related.
Just now clicked on your link and bingo!
Not sure what happened when I did it, but thanks much!


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Did that very search and came up with nothing Define C related.
> Just now clicked on your link and bingo!
> Not sure what happened when I did it, but thanks much!


You're most welcome! I did a date search by clicking "Search tools" then doing a custom range under "Time".


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreamsINdigital*
> 
> Define C and Define Mini C incoming. Leaked by a Spanish retailer. Details here:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/582rtd/new_fractal_design_cases_appear_on_spanish_eseller/


Nice!

Right now I am using the Define Nano S but I think I am going to go Micro ATX for Kaby Lake / Zen. I am currently using the Define Nano S and I really like it! Nice to see a Micro ATX version of the Define Nano S / Define S with a basement.


----------



## Spencer25

I was going to order the Define Nano S... now that I have seen the MINI C incoming... I am a bit confused! will it be possible, in Your opinions, a late October release? I suppose it will come with the same size of the previous Define Mini which would be perfect for my need (below 41 cms tall)!
Perhaps I take the opportunity to ask a question for the Define Nano s' owners. I would like to use the Corsair Sf600 psu so I will need to order the Silverstone sfx to atx bracket... is it possible to rotate the bracket in order to place the psu as low as possible? I hope i have been clear enough (sorry, I'm Italian)


----------



## Jyve

I've been using the arc mini r2 for some time now. I do love the case but I've been itching for something new.

I'm really digging the mini C but I really want tempered glass. My next case will have TG.

Am I dropping enough hints, fractal?

Give me a tempered glass matx case!

Arc, define, mini C. I don't care! I'm tired of scratchy plastic. I'm an adult and I want glass!

Rant finished.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spencer25*
> 
> I would like to use the Corsair Sf600 psu so I will need to order the Silverstone sfx to atx bracket... is it possible to rotate the bracket in order to place the psu as low as possible? I hope i have been clear enough (sorry, I'm Italian)


You mean like this?



This is my build btw


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I've been using the arc mini r2 for some time now. I do love the case but I've been itching for something new.
> 
> I'm really digging the mini C but I really want tempered glass. My next case will have TG.
> 
> Am I dropping enough hints, fractal?
> 
> Give me a tempered glass matx case!
> 
> Arc, define, mini C. I don't care! I'm tired of scratchy plastic. I'm an adult and I want glass!
> 
> Rant finished.


I currently own a Define Nano S and I love it! I'm thinking I want to go Micro ATX for Kaby Lake / Zen. So I started to check out some micro ATX cases. I realized there really isn't much available for strictly micro ATX. It seems to me that all case companies are neglecting the micro ATX market. There are tons of nice iTX and ATX cases but not really micro. They probably think that being micro ATX boards work fine in ATX cases that they can call it good and leave it at that.

That said, I'm more than happy with the Define Mini C the way it is. It is going to be the best micro ATX case on the market in my opinion. I like how they finally adopted a basement (psu shroud) and that they went with 5 PCIe slots rather than 4. This will make for broader compatibility with SLI / Crossfire micro ATX motherboards.


----------



## smithydan

Micro atx is sadly a middle child, the ones that gets the least attentio but it is ironic that most builds don't utilize all those pci slots and matx is perfect for that replacement. I love matx but sadly the lack in cases and motherboards makes it a really hard choice.


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> You mean like this?
> 
> 
> 
> This is my build btw


Yes, that's exactly what i was meaning! I am a bit confused because I have seen two different versions of this Silverstone adapter. Did You rotate it or was it already made for installing the psu as You did? The only one I can find for buying seems to be intended to be mounted with the psu which will remain on higher position. It comes with a small retaining staff for keeping the psu on lower position so that the vent holes will remain in the upper position. If the one you bought is the same but You simply rotated it, then I will do the same ( I simply guess that the psu will sit on the floor wihtout being only kept by the screws)! Thank You so much for Your precious help


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spencer25*
> 
> Yes, that's exactly what i was meaning! I am a bit confused because I have seen two different versions of this Silverstone adapter. Did You rotate it or was it already made for installing the psu as You did? The only one I can find for buying seems to be intended to be mounted with the psu which will remain on higher position. It comes with a small retaining staff for keeping the psu on lower position so that the vent holes will remain in the upper position. If the one you bought is the same but You simply rotated it, then I will do the same ( I simply guess that the psu will sit on the floor wihtout being only kept by the screws)! Thank You so much for Your precious help


My adapter is the Silverstone $15ish one on Amazon. It's the best one. You can install it and position your SFX PSU any way you want. Vent side up / down, PSU fan up / down, vise versa.


----------



## Techbyte

I swapped the power LED in my Define Nano S. It was pretty easy to do, even with the odd adhesive Fractal uses to keep the lights in place. This was my first time soldering too. The wires are pretty small / thin and so are the "legs" on the LEDs so if you plan to do it like I did, definitely plan on soldering.







Such a small change but I feel the White LED looks soo much nicer.

I had to buy a pack on Amazon for $8 that came with 100 of these LEDs. I couldn't find one tailed (pre-wired) or purchase one individually. These are 2mm X 5mm X 7mm. I have 99 left if anyone wants one. lol


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> I currently own a Define Nano S and I love it! I'm thinking I want to go Micro ATX for Kaby Lake / Zen. So I started to check out some micro ATX cases. I realized there really isn't much available for strictly micro ATX. It seems to me that all case companies are neglecting the micro ATX market. There are tons of nice iTX and ATX cases but not really micro. They probably think that being micro ATX boards work fine in ATX cases that they can call it good and leave it at that.
> 
> That said, I'm more than happy with the Define Mini C the way it is. It is going to be the best micro ATX case on the market in my opinion. I like how they finally adopted a basement (psu shroud) and that they went with 5 PCIe slots rather than 4. This will make for broader compatibility with SLI / Crossfire micro ATX motherboards.


The arc mini is a matx case and, imo, currently the best one on the market. We'll see if the mini C can stand up to it. The arc mini has 5 pcie slots as well, just the 5th is vertical, best for maybe a fan controller. I even at 1 point used it for my SB z and that looked pretty cool. Something similar to this but with the Z.



It'd probably still be there if the riser card hadn't crapped out on me.

Back on topic. Again, I like the mini C, but it really is a side step for me and my arc mini. Make that panel TG and I'm all in!

The inwin 805, nzxt s340 elite, and the new corsair 460x crystal series are only a hair larger than the arc mini and, accept full atx boards, have psu shrouds, and most importantly have TG.

Those are the 3 I'm looking at along with the phanteks evolv TG edition.


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> My adapter is the Silverstone $15ish one on Amazon. It's the best one. You can install it and position your SFX PSU any way you want. Vent side up / down, PSU fan up / down, vise versa.


Thank You again. I have checked and it is exactly the same. Perhaps in Italy it is on sale for 7.99 (Euro)!


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> The arc mini is a matx case and, imo, currently the best one on the market. We'll see if the mini C can stand up to it.


You serious? The Define Series are much nicer than the Arc series in my opinion. Better cable management area, sound dampening material on the side panels, front panel, and moduvent insert on top panel. The Arc intake is more restricted with the hard drive cages, which can be a good or bad thing depending on how many 3.5" drives one would want. I think ditching the vertical PCIe Slot and going with 5 slots in the normal position was a good move. They added extra venting in its place. Take the PSU shroud into account and the Define Mini C will be a no brainer against the Arc Mini R2.


----------



## Dimensive

I've had no issues with airflow and temps haven't increased in my Arc Mini R2 after adding both cages and 4 hard drives this week.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I've had no issues with airflow and temps haven't increased in my Arc Mini R2 after adding both cages and 4 hard drives this week.


I find that a little hard to believe being HDDs put out some heat. Slapping 4 of them and some front mounted cages in front of your intakes is bound to effect temps to some extent.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> You serious? The Define Series are much nicer than the Arc series in my opinion. Better cable management area, sound dampening material on the side panels, front panel, and moduvent insert on top panel. The Arc intake is more restricted with the hard drive cages, which can be a good or bad thing depending on how many 3.5" drives one would want. I think ditching the vertical PCIe Slot and going with 5 slots in the normal position was a good move. They added extra venting in its place. Take the PSU shroud into account and the Define Mini C will be a no brainer against the Arc Mini R2.


I tore the drive cages out long ago. I have a 250 and a 500gb ssd mounted on the back and nada optical drive.

I wasn't a big fan of the matx define. Also the sound dampening isn't a big deal to me as my system is pretty quiet. At least quiet enough that doesn't bother me. A window is a requirement as I don't game a lot and this is more a project for me.

I probably spend more time looking at the PC, analyzing and daydreaming than I do real gaming.


----------



## Dimensive

After running AIDA64 for 5 minutes on the CPU/FPU.

Drives Off:


Drives On:


Add a 1-2c margin for error and what you have here is no change.


----------



## SchmoSalt

Hey all, I'm looking into building a silent, low power 24/7 server machine with the Node 202. This server will replace a 2009 ThinkPad acting as a 24/7 server. For the most part it will be handling non-intensive tasks such as routing, DHCP, DNS, IIS, MySQL, and file sharing. It will also become a Steam download cache during LAN parties.

Spec List
Case: Fractal Node 202 w/ 450W PSU
Mobo/CPU: Supermicro X10SDV-4C-TLN2F
RAM: 64GB Corsair DDR4/2800 (pulled out of my main rig)

Is the Node 202 a good choice for this kind of project? Will it be silent enough at near idle levels to comfortably have in my bedroom while sleeping?

Thanks,
Matt


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> Hey all, I'm looking into building a silent, low power 24/7 server machine with the Node 202. This server will replace a 2009 ThinkPad acting as a 24/7 server. For the most part it will be handling non-intensive tasks such as routing, DHCP, DNS, IIS, MySQL, and file sharing. It will also become a Steam download cache during LAN parties.
> 
> Spec List
> Case: Fractal Node 202 w/ 450W PSU
> Mobo/CPU: Supermicro X10SDV-4C-TLN2F
> RAM: 64GB Corsair DDR4/2800 (pulled out of my main rig)
> 
> Is the Node 202 a good choice for this kind of project? Will it be silent enough at near idle levels to comfortably have in my bedroom while sleeping?
> 
> Thanks,
> Matt


That is a wicked nice motherboard man! You sure you need that though? As for noise, that is going to be up to you and your fans / PSU. I don't have a Node, but I have the Define Nano S. My PC is dead silent under normal usage. (non-gaming) I went with a Corsair SF600 SFX PSU for other reasons, and it is silent. My build at full load can't quite push the SF600 to 50% load so the fan barely spins at all.

Get yourself some decent fans and maybe skip the Node 202 combo and just buy the stand alone case. Pick up a Corsair SF450 or maybe even a SFX-L from Silverstone / LianLi and you can keep the noise to a minimum.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> Hey all, I'm looking into building a silent, low power 24/7 server machine with the Node 202.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This server will replace a 2009 ThinkPad acting as a 24/7 server. For the most part it will be handling non-intensive tasks such as routing, DHCP, DNS, IIS, MySQL, and file sharing. It will also become a Steam download cache during LAN parties.
> 
> Spec List
> Case: Fractal Node 202 w/ 450W PSU
> Mobo/CPU: Supermicro X10SDV-4C-TLN2F
> RAM: 64GB Corsair DDR4/2800 (pulled out of my main rig)
> 
> Is the Node 202 a good choice for this kind of project? Will it be silent enough at near idle levels to comfortably have in my bedroom while sleeping?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Matt


I also do not have a 202. What drives are you planning? In my system (daily driver) the loudest items are the hard drives.


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> The arc mini is a matx case and, imo, currently the best one on the market. We'll see if the mini C can stand up to it. The arc mini has 5 pcie slots as well, just the 5th is vertical, best for maybe a fan controller. I even at 1 point used it for my SB z and that looked pretty cool. Something similar to this but with the Z.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It'd probably still be there if the riser card hadn't crapped out on me.
> 
> Back on topic. Again, I like the mini C, but it really is a side step for me and my arc mini. Make that panel TG and I'm all in!
> 
> The inwin 805, nzxt s340 elite, and the new corsair 460x crystal series are only a hair larger than the arc mini and, accept full atx boards, have psu shrouds, and most importantly have TG.
> 
> Those are the 3 I'm looking at along with the phanteks evolv TG edition.


I see I'm not the only one who used the 5th slot like that:


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> Hey all, I'm looking into building a silent, low power 24/7 server machine with the Node 202. This server will replace a 2009 ThinkPad acting as a 24/7 server. For the most part it will be handling non-intensive tasks such as routing, DHCP, DNS, IIS, MySQL, and file sharing. It will also become a Steam download cache during LAN parties.
> 
> Spec List
> Case: Fractal Node 202 w/ 450W PSU
> Mobo/CPU: Supermicro X10SDV-4C-TLN2F
> RAM: 64GB Corsair DDR4/2800 (pulled out of my main rig)
> 
> Is the Node 202 a good choice for this kind of project? Will it be silent enough at near idle levels to comfortably have in my bedroom while sleeping?
> 
> Thanks,
> Matt


I have 3 Scythe 12x120mm PWM fans in my Node 202 and it's rather quiet. Since it doesn't seem like you're putting a GPU in there, you will really only need 1 fan in the motherboard chamber to exhaust heat. And because it only takes up to 2x2.5" drives, noise shouldn't be an issue there.


----------



## SchmoSalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> That is a wicked nice motherboard man! You sure you need that though? As for noise, that is going to be up to you and your fans / PSU. I don't have a Node, but I have the Define Nano S. My PC is dead silent under normal usage. (non-gaming) I went with a Corsair SF600 SFX PSU for other reasons, and it is silent. My build at full load can't quite push the SF600 to 50% load so the fan barely spins at all.
> 
> Get yourself some decent fans and maybe skip the Node 202 combo and just buy the stand alone case. Pick up a Corsair SF450 or maybe even a SFX-L from Silverstone / LianLi and you can keep the noise to a minimum.


I mainly have it picked out because it's a server grade board. I want something that I know will be rock solid 24/7 and efficient. I mean I could save a few by going with a mITX LGA11xx build but I don't know of any boards that have the stability, I/O, and efficiency the Supermicro does. I also saw that the Xeon D is highly regarded among homelabbers.

I was thinking about rigging a 120/140mm Noctua or Be Quiet fan just above the mobo to act as an intake. That mobo only has a passive cooler on the CPU which sketches me out a bit.

Is the SF450 worth the extra $40? The Node 202 combo effectively makes the PSU in it $50 while the SF450 is $90.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I also do not have a 202. What drives are you planning? In my system (daily driver) the loudest items are the hard drives.


I plan on using two 850 Evos (500GB and 1TB) that are currently in the ThinkPad server. Noise and heat shouldn't be an issue from those two. In the future I'll probably end up using that M.2 slot on the mobo though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I have 3 Scythe 12x120mm PWM fans in my Node 202 and it's rather quiet. Since it doesn't seem like you're putting a GPU in there, you will really only need 1 fan in the motherboard chamber to exhaust heat. And because it only takes up to 2x2.5" drives, noise shouldn't be an issue there.


The mobo chamber has a place to put an exhaust fan? I was thinking of rigging a 120mm or 140mm fan as an intake to the vent that is just above the the mobo. The board that I am looking at only has a passive cooler on the CPU so I'm thinking that a big fan blowing directly onto it make a huge difference.

If I do end up mounting anything in the expansion chamber it will be a networking card. I might end up picking up a cheap SFP+ card for 10 gigabit ethernet. The mobo already has 10GbE onboard but 10GbE is quite a bit more expensive than going SFP+ from what I saw.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> The mobo chamber has a place to put an exhaust fan? I was thinking of rigging a 120mm or 140mm fan as an intake to the vent that is just above the the mobo. The board that I am looking at only has a passive cooler on the CPU so I'm thinking that a big fan blowing directly onto it make a huge difference.
> 
> If I do end up mounting anything in the expansion chamber it will be a networking card. I might end up picking up a cheap SFP+ card for 10 gigabit ethernet. The mobo already has 10GbE onboard but 10GbE is quite a bit more expensive than going SFP+ from what I saw.


Yea, there is a filtered area that will fit a 120mm fan right above the CPU.


----------



## NeWGuy2277

Hi All

Hope someone is able to help me.

I would like to install a PCI card in the fractal design node 202 instead of GPU card is that possible in that mITX case?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeWGuy2277*
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Hope someone is able to help me.
> 
> I would like to install a PCI card in the fractal design node 202 instead of GPU card is that possible in that mITX case?


Welcome to OCN. As long as the card is PCI-E then there will be no problem.


----------



## NeWGuy2277

Thank you

But the thing is it's not so is there any kind of pci-e to pci adapter the will fit on the node 202 riser card?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeWGuy2277*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> But the thing is it's not so is there any kind of pci-e to pci adapter the will fit on the node 202 riser card?


Something like this may work: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158190

But I cannot say for sure.


----------



## NeWGuy2277

Thanks for the help much appreciated


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeWGuy2277*
> 
> Thanks for the help much appreciated


You're welcome.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> Is the SF450 worth the extra $40?


I personally think so. The included SFX PSU in the combo isn't all that great. The Corsair is pretty top notch with all Japanese caps, 7 year warranty, nicer fan, etc. If it's reliability and silence you are looking for, the Corsair SF450 is a much better choice. Iv'e heard the SF450 is pretty quiet. With your planned build, the fan on the SF450 would barely spin at all, if ever. Your system won't push it hard enough to make it warm up I wouldn't think.


----------



## JackCY

The Corsair SFxxx are fine PSUs. It's either those or full size RMx/i or SuperFlower/EVGA.

As far as using PCI cards in 2016, you should replace the card as unless you have a dated mobo it won't even have PCI anymore. Never seen conversion kits, probably exists but a hard to find rarity not worth wasting money on unless you have some super expensive PCI profi card for some special use.
Old PCI cards are also unlikely to have drivers for modern OSes, sure some generic sound card cheap cards should work with generic drivers but some expensive specialized card worth going through the trouble for may not.


----------



## Klutz0

So, I recently moved my build from a Node 304 to a Define Nano S.

In the Node 304 the GPU was starved for air and was getting both way too hot and unbearably loud.
I'm glad to say that the Define Nano S is keeping it a LOT cooler and quieter!

The PSU cables from my Silverstone SX600 were too short though: the CPU power was just barely long enough, and the 24 pin had to run in front of the GPU... So I ordered some cable extension from Dazmode, which got here today!

Here it is, in it's new case!











A few thing still annoy me, but I'll be able to fix them in a few weeks:

The red accents on the motherboard
The text on the side of the PSU
The ATX -> SFX PSU bracket is grey
I ordered some matte black auto-adhesive vinyl that I'm going to use to cover up the motherboard accents and the PSU text.
And while I've got the PSU out, I'll spray paint the bracket black.

I'd also prefer it if the AIO's tubes went into the top of the rad. I'll need to try it to make sure, but I don't think it fits that way.









Also, why isn't there an official Define Nano S club?


----------



## zorvalth

Guys, did you notice these Define C cases are very short. It says 315mm graphic cards same as nano, so they are probably same depth (front to back) 400mm. For comparison Define mini and Define S are 490mm and 520mm. these case wont be good for water cooling because front mounting rad will reduce drastically GPU card size but will be great for air, because the CPU and GPU will be very close to the front intakes.


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> Guys, did you notice these Define C cases are very short. It says 315mm graphic cards same as nano, so they are probably same depth (front to back) 400mm. For comparison Define mini and Define S are 490mm and 520mm. these case wont be good for water cooling because front mounting rad will reduce drastically GPU card size but will be great for air, because the CPU and GPU will be very close to the front intakes.


I wish they will produce a Nano "C" because I will not use liquid cooling in my future case and I could save some empty room! However I will wait for the Mini C, hoping it will be released before mid-November. Otherwise I will buy the Nano S case. Someone knows the Mini C release date?


----------



## ShortySmalls

Is it just my setup or does taking the front cover off your Define S improve temps by 10+ *c for everyone?


----------



## WheresWally

Hey everyone, just joined the club with a Node 804 from Newegg. Planing on using it to replace my aging Celeron based file server. Probably need to take my time with this one as I don't actually have any parts for it other than the case. I am looking forward to building it and maybe modeling a few 3D printed add ons.


----------



## Techbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WheresWally*
> 
> Hey everyone, just joined the club with a Node 804 from Newegg.


When did you order it? The Node 804 is on sale at Newegg for $69.99 right now!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352047&cm_re=Fractal_Design_Node_804-_-11-352-047-_-Product

These sales on the Fractal cases make me think the Define C series are on their way. Probably get them out before the Holidays.


----------



## WheresWally

This week got on the $70 sale.


----------



## ticallista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortySmalls*
> 
> Is it just my setup or does taking the front cover off your Define S improve temps by 10+ *c for everyone?


Yep. Removing front cover drops temps by a lot. That's why I went with the R5. When I game, I just open the front door







.


----------



## ShortySmalls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ticallista*
> 
> Yep. Removing front cover drops temps by a lot. That's why I went with the R5. When I game, I just open the front door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I was worried about that issue when i bought it but people made it out to not being an issue at all, but overall this is my favorite case ive owned and ive had cases 3-4x the cost.


----------



## Velathawen

I basically run my R5 with the front panel removed since I need the intakes to do work. I thought I'd hate it at first but it doesn't look too bad.


----------



## Benjiw

I run my define s with the front cover off but only because I need to let my front 360mm blow the hot air out, the top of my S is an intake for my top 420mm rad.


----------



## JackCY

*cough* just buy enough radiators to cover all the 5 sides of a cube and make a case out of them.
*wink* *wink* Fractal, come on, do it, you know you wanna.


----------



## Ithanul

Finally got my lazy butt to cutting. Just a little more left that I will cut tomorrow afternoon then the RIVBE can finally sit inside.


----------



## Dimensive

I decided to rebuild my desktop PC in the Node 304 (coming from the Arc Mini R2). This was a rather strenuous rebuild as I didn't want to spend any money because I was taking apart my server, which was in the Node 304, to use for parts in this build. The two parts that held me up coming from a micro ATX case to a mini ITX case were the CPU cooler and the power supply, but I ended up getting the CRYORIG H7 in without issue and I had a spare power supply that was shorter than my XFX XTR. It's nice to have a small case that will eventually sit atop my desk when my friend is done building me a new desk.

Case: Fractal Design Node 304
Motherboard: ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
Cooler: CRYORIG H7
RAM: 8GB Kingston HyperX FURY DDR3 1866MHz
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 SC ACX 2.0
PSU: Cooler Master G750M
SSD: 120GB Kingston HyperX 3K
HDD: 500GB Western Digital Black
HDD: 2 x 5TB Western Digital Red
OS: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro x64



Spoiler: Pictures


----------



## Ithanul

Finally, got the RIVBE in.


----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Finally, got the RIVBE in.


Nice work!

How does it look when the perimeter LED's light up (the ones on the right side of the motherboard) with the open gaps in the case?


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Nice work!
> 
> How does it look when the perimeter LED's light up (the ones on the right side of the motherboard) with the open gaps in the case?


Can't check at the moment. Waiting on 0.5 and 1.0mm thermal pads so I can mount EK motherboard blocks.

Probably going to mod the top a little bit to allow a 360 rad to sit in a slightly different position. Also, I have plans to chop up the front bezel too.







Though, I want to mod the top a lot more, kind of want to find a good grill that would cover the fans when mounted outside. Have to go hunting for one that will work with the idea I have in mind.


----------



## JackCY




----------



## Testing12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*


Probably a good idea for finger/hand safety and cable wellbeing.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Testing12*
> 
> Probably a good idea for finger/hand safety and cable wellbeing.


I rounded the edges on those, plus the cables are not going to be near them. Plus, going to have them covered up.


----------



## brazilianloser

They really parked the bus lately. Sure hope they got some new cases out in 2017 otherwise my next build will be going towards another manufacturer.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> They really parked the bus lately. Sure hope they got some new cases out in 2017 otherwise my next build will be going towards another manufacturer.


I'm not 100% on this, but I believe I recall seeing they would be announcing new products this month. We've gotten a view of the Define C cases which look very nice, but nothing else.


----------



## DHphoto

Need some help on a soon-to-be build, trying to stay well below $1,000...

this is what I'm thinking, I game but mainly play a few titles (ARMA, BF1, Squad) and do some photo editing (no batch work) the rest is just for surfing. Most things will be acquired around black Friday to HOPEFULLY get good deals

Node 202 case
i5 6600k (microcenter has it for $199!)
C7 cooler
1060 6gb
8gb RAM
500gb ssd (would love a m.2 as well ;( )

I need help on the MOBO, power supply and weather or not this case can handle a mild overclock (4.0 or 4.2ghz). First time builder but I play CPU intensive games this is the only reason I ask. Looking to stay around the $100 mark for MOBO and what should I do about the PSU? I heard the node supplied one isn't the best.


----------



## mypickaxe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DHphoto*
> 
> Need some help on a soon-to-be build, trying to stay well below $1,000...
> 
> this is what I'm thinking, I game but mainly play a few titles (ARMA, BF1, Squad) and do some photo editing (no batch work) the rest is just for surfing. Most things will be acquired around black Friday to HOPEFULLY get good deals
> 
> Node 202 case
> i5 6600k (microcenter has it for $199!)
> C7 cooler
> 1060 6gb
> 8gb RAM
> 500gb ssd (would love a m.2 as well ;( )
> 
> I need help on the MOBO, power supply and weather or not this case can handle a mild overclock (4.0 or 4.2ghz). First time builder but I play CPU intensive games this is the only reason I ask. Looking to stay around the $100 mark for MOBO and what should I do about the PSU? I heard the node supplied one isn't the best.


First things first. If you're looking for a PSU for the Node 202, I have the original 450W Fractal Design (the model that ships with the case + PSU SKU.) I can sell it to you for a very reasonable price, but DM me for the details.

I wouldn't do any more than very light overclocking in the Node 202. I tested it and it just gets too hot, even with an intake fan. The only way I could make it work without thermal throttling was to mod the case and install a Corsair Hydro H55 liquid cooler.

This is a case that really does need a blower style GPU, as well. If you take those two things into consideration, and get a CPU cooler that fits your ITX motherboard but is as big as possible (hard to do with 65mm clearance) it will make a fine machine.


----------



## Duality92

go nuts ocn









http://www.overclock.net/products/fractal-design-define-mini-c-black-windowed/reviews/7454


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> go nuts ocn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/products/fractal-design-define-mini-c-black-windowed/reviews/7454]


Thanks for the review! I'll update the OP sometime today with all the info from their site.


----------



## Spencer25

Very nice pc case. Still confused if buying Nano S or this one. Both them are really good!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> go nuts ocn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/products/fractal-design-define-mini-c-black-windowed/reviews/7454


Ou so pretty, and great review as well


----------



## Dimensive

TPU did a review on the Define C: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Fractal_Design/Define_C/


----------



## smithydan




----------



## Ithanul

.....Darn, that Define C looks mighty nice.

Is that EATX board they showing in the case? If so, I'm jelly. Though, poo it losses having a 360 up top.


----------



## HZCH

If that Define C mini can handle a Raijintek Morpheus on my asus GTX980 STRIX, I swear I'm putting my rig in it. Damn, that gpu would become silent, at last...


----------



## Enigma5

My quick Define C Build!






Nice improvements by Fractal although a couple small issues like the cutouts in the PSU cover being a bit small (for PCIe cables and USB 3.0 header).


----------



## brazilianloser

Darn... was hoping for a more sturdy and feature packed Define S model... not a midget version of it.


----------



## 0ldChicken

Hey, quick question for all you Define S owners. I cannot tell for sure but is the front and top radiator positions aligned or offset? It seems like the top 120/240/360 is closer to the front side panel than the front 120/240/360 placement but I'd like to know for sure.

Thanks


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Can you install a full size optical drive in the front of the Core 1500? I've looked around the web, looks like the mounts are there, and there are a couple of score lines on the front panel, but I can't find a pic of one with a drive installed.

Thanks.

Edit:

Looks like it's possible, found a page in their FAQ (duh).

http://support.fractal-design.com/support/solutions/articles/4000055117-core-1500-install-5-25-drive


----------



## brazilianloser

Want to see someone putting a hard tube loop inside the Define C...


----------



## MightEMatt

Does anybody know for sure if the Define Mini C can take a 200mm PSU without the 3.5 drive cage?


----------



## KipH

Hi. We have 2 OCN reviews you might want to look at. Please ask questions and make comments









http://www.overclock.net/products/fractal-design-define-mini-c-black-windowed/reviews/7454

and

http://www.overclock.net/products/define-c/reviews/7455


----------



## Shisa

I will feel happy, if they don't limit VGA only 315 mm, because of no space to take water cooler around 30 mm.
315-30= 285mm = only founders edition.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0ldChicken*
> 
> Hey, quick question for all you Define S owners. I cannot tell for sure but is the front and top radiator positions aligned or offset? It seems like the top 120/240/360 is closer to the front side panel than the front 120/240/360 placement but I'd like to know for sure.
> 
> Thanks


In the top, the 120 / 240 / 360 mount positions are offset. The 140 / 280 / 420 mount positions in the top are not offset since those footprints are much larger (wider). The front radiator positions are not offset at all, they're just centered.


----------



## JackCY

Sorry FD but the R5 is still the best compatibility wise. I would only recommend R5 or Mini C.

We need a proper R6 that has all the many times requested changes.
On the other hand the sheep will buy anything you try to sell...


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Sorry FD but the R5 is still the best compatibility wise. I would only recommend R5 or Mini C.
> 
> We need a proper R6 that has all the many times requested changes.
> *On the other hand the sheep will buy anything you try to sell...*


Unnecessarily condescending much?

I'm perfectly happy buying multiple FD cases and trying them out, knowing full well the expectation of perfection is unreasonable. They're making products designed to please a _majority_ of people and use-cases. I think, given the vast combinations of personal preferences and uses, they do a pretty gosh-dang good job of providing high quality, functional, good-looking cases for good prices that are also very mod-friendly.

At the least, you certainly get much more for your money relative to the offerings of Corsair, CM, Phanteks (price-wise at least, nice cases but a bit too over stylized for me), Lian Li (nice but super over-priced), Silverstone (somewhat pricey), or Thermaltake (shudder).

Obviously my subjective opinion, ergo, my


----------



## arix

I really like the Define C and would love to use it for my upcoming build, I have an Asus X99-E WS USB3.1 which is an "SSI CEB" form factor motherboard (12"x10.5") so basically an inch wider than an ATX motherboard, I have seen people fit this board perfectly on a Define R4/R5 but not on a Define S because of the aggressive angle of the cable sourcing/management panel. I would really appreciate any measurements or information on whether there is a chance of it fitting or not.

Pictures/build of this motherboard (Asus X99-E WS USB3.1) on a Define R5: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/ttZ8TW


----------



## Dorabot

Hi, everybody.








My Fractal desing difine R5 white.




Thank you.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Sorry FD but the R5 is still the best compatibility wise. I would only recommend R5 or Mini C.
> 
> We need a proper R6 that has all the many times requested changes.
> On the other hand the sheep will buy anything you try to sell...


Incredibly happy with my define S, it has a few design oversights I think but your comment about being a sheep and the R5 is the best has me perplexed...


----------



## athlon 64

I really like the new Define Mini C and i think it might replace my ARC mini r2.

But i have one concern that i would have for all the "Define" series cases that don't have the front door.
And all the define series cases that don't have 5.25 bays also don't have a front door since it's not needed.

The concern is... i like to clean my dustfilters once a week. Usually you would just open the door and clean them out.
But here you have to take off the front part.
I'm afraid that after hunderds of front part takeoff's a latch might break, i know that on my arc mini r2 the front part is held in place tight and i don't feel that something there wouldn't brake if i took it off once a week for years.

The other concern is, i used to have a define R4 and it was one of the highest quality made computer cases i have ever seen in my life.

It felt like a tank made out of thick steel

But the ARC mini r2 dissapointed me a lot here. It's sidepannels are a lot thinner even with no window and the entire case feels like plastic crap.

I even had a problem with a broken latch holding the front dustfilter.

So i hope the MINI C will be comparable to the old R4 and the old Mini considering the build quality.


----------



## Bryst

To anyone that has the new Define Mini C, can you measure the space from the expansion slots to the front fan? Or if you have a large GPU take a photo?


----------



## zorvalth

Just check the product page, there is gpu size compatibility there.


----------



## xx9e02

I'm hoping I can squeeze my 180mm 750G2 into the Define C without removing the drive bays. It says 175mm but we'll see lol

Edit: Guru3D fit a HX750i in there without removing cages which is 180mm, so should be fine!


----------



## prava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> I'm hoping I can squeeze my 180mm 750G2 into the Define C without removing the drive bays. It says 175mm but we'll see lol
> 
> Edit: Guru3D fit a HX750i in there without removing cages which is 180mm, so should be fine!


I guess Fractal went the safe route and assumed that a non-modular 180mm in there might probably not fit.. but so long as its modular it should be pretty doable.

PS: in any case you be the guinea pig since I have the same psu and I might migrate to the Define C. I simply love how compact it is.


----------



## kelvinc2

Took me 6 years to post my first post. But here I am - finally building a PC again since forever. Currently waiting on shipping, but my parts are as fol so far:

Fractal Design Define S Black Window Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case

Intel Core i7-6700
PNY GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition
ASUS Z170-A ATX Intel Motherboard
SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 1TB SSD
CORSAIR Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 3000
Corsair Hydro Series H80i (I know my CPU ain't going to heat up cause I'm not overclocking it, but for the looks...)
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 80+ PLATINUM 650W

Will be posting pics when I get my hands on them!


----------



## nzphil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kelvinc2*
> 
> Took me 6 years to post my first post. But here I am - finally building a PC again since forever. Currently waiting on shipping, but my parts are as fol so far:
> 
> Fractal Design Define S Black Window Silent ATX Midtower Computer Case
> 
> Intel Core i7-6700
> PNY GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition
> ASUS Z170-A ATX Intel Motherboard
> SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 1TB SSD
> CORSAIR Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 3000
> Corsair Hydro Series H80i (I know my CPU ain't going to heat up cause I'm not overclocking it, but for the looks...)
> EVGA SuperNOVA 650 80+ PLATINUM 650W
> 
> Will be posting pics when I get my hands on them!


Wow your joined date


----------



## xx9e02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I guess Fractal went the safe route and assumed that a non-modular 180mm in there might probably not fit.. but so long as its modular it should be pretty doable.
> 
> PS: in any case you be the guinea pig since I have the same psu and I might migrate to the Define C. I simply love how compact it is.


I'll let you know - I'm picking one up as soon as Newegg lists it. They've been selling the Mini C for a few days now, but haven't seen the regular one yet.


----------



## kelvinc2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzphil*
> 
> Wow your joined date


Am I fossil or what


----------



## kelvinc2

So, I finally got my hands on the Define S, and also most of my parts, just waiting on the GPU now. It's coming from Amazon and it should take another day or so.

But meanwhile, I can't resist but to post a picture of the parts that I got


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kelvinc2*
> 
> So, I finally got my hands on the Define S, and also most of my parts, just waiting on the GPU now. It's coming from Amazon and it should take another day or so.
> 
> But meanwhile, I can't resist but to post a picture of the parts that I got
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, looking forward to seeing your build!


----------



## smithydan

Anyone know when the white Nano S is coming State side?


----------



## Bryst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Anyone know when the white Nano S is coming State side?


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352062&cm_re=nano_s-_-11-352-062-_-Product ???


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryst*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352062&cm_re=nano_s-_-11-352-062-_-Product ???


The white one: http://www.fractal-design.jp/home/products/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-white

I haven't heard of a release date for it.


----------



## Bryst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> The white one: http://www.fractal-design.jp/home/products/cases/define-series/define-nano-s-white
> 
> I haven't heard of a release date for it.


Soon™.


----------



## Dimensive

Lol. I'm hoping to see a Define Nano C.


----------



## Bryst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Lol. I'm hoping to see a Define Nano C.


My Mini C is due to arrive tomorrow. Pretty excited, I really like Fractal cases, I have a Node 304 for my server. Was gonna get an EK predator 240 but the only place in US that has them has only the QDC version.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bryst*
> 
> My Mini C is due to arrive tomorrow. Pretty excited, I really like Fractal cases, I have a Node 304 for my server. Was gonna get an EK predator 240 but the only place in US that has them has only the QDC version.


Nice, post some pics of the build. My desktop/gaming rig is in a Node 304 and I am very pleased with the results. I have my HTPC/gaming rig in a Node 202, and while heat is a bit of an issue, I love the case.


----------



## SchmoSalt

I got around to building that Node 202 server I was asking about a few weeks ago. Overall I'm happy with the build. There weren't any real surprises with this case which is good. I'd definitely consider the Node 202 again if I went for another small form factor build.

Cable management was pretty painless considering how small the case is. Of course I just stuffed all of the unused cabling in the empty expansion bay. I will have to tidy that up if I end up getting a SFP+ card. This build has continued my hate for SATA power cables though. Why can no one make these things right?

I mounted a 120mm fan as an intake directly above the motherboard. Despite being a fan geared towards silence it is way too loud at 100%. I'll see if a fan resistor will fix that. If not then I'll have to look for a fan that is quieter.

Final Spec List:

Motherboard: Supermicro X10SDV-4C-TLN2F
CPU: Xeon D-1521
RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4/2133
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 500GB
SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB
PSU: Corsair SF450
Cooling: bequiet! Silent Wings 2 120mm
OS: Windows Server 2016 Datacenter (Dreamspark)


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SchmoSalt*
> 
> I got around to building that Node 202 server I was asking about a few weeks ago. Overall I'm happy with the build. There weren't any real surprises with this case which is good. I'd definitely consider the Node 202 again if I went for another small form factor build.
> 
> Cable management was pretty painless considering how small the case is. Of course I just stuffed all of the unused cabling in the empty expansion bay. I will have to tidy that up if I end up getting a SFP+ card. This build has continued my hate for SATA power cables though. Why can no one make these things right?
> 
> I mounted a 120mm fan as an intake directly above the motherboard. Despite being a fan geared towards silence it is way too loud at 100%. I'll see if a fan resistor will fix that. If not then I'll have to look for a fan that is quieter.
> 
> Final Spec List:
> 
> Motherboard: Supermicro X10SDV-4C-TLN2F
> CPU: Xeon D-1521
> RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4/2133
> SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 500GB
> SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB
> PSU: Corsair SF450
> Cooling: bequiet! Silent Wings 2 120mm
> OS: Windows Server 2016 Datacenter (Dreamspark)


Looks nice









What are you going to use this rig for ?
Also, about the main fan : can you regulate it from the BIOS ? Your MoBo has 3 PWM fan headers, according to SuperMicro. And if it's not true PWM headers, the Silent Wings 2 might have a wide enough voltage range (I used the 140mm version in an older rig for a long time, on a Z87 board with no true-PWM headers, only voltage controled).


----------



## Bryst

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Nice, post some pics of the build. My desktop/gaming rig is in a Node 304 and I am very pleased with the results. I have my HTPC/gaming rig in a Node 202, and while heat is a bit of an issue, I love the case.


I still dont have the predator 240, waiting to hear back from PPC to see if they are going to get any of the non-QDC versions. But I just got finished moving it over. The fans might not stay, I have 2 Thermalright TY-147As coming that I hope perform better as intakes, and that Fractal fan is useless on the exhaust.

She almost didnt fit...


----------



## Dimensive

Nice lookin' build. Yea, their Silent Series and GP fans never impressed me. I use their Venturi fans in both my builds and love them.


----------



## Dimensive

By the way, the Nano S is on sale at Newegg for $50/$55 for the non-windowed/windowed versions respectively.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352061
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811352062


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Lol. I'm hoping to see a Define Nano C.


What would be the diff between Nano S and Nano C? baiscally Define C and Mini C are expanded Nano. PSU cover is useless becasue the PSU is already 1mm under the GPU. The other diff from the standart S nad C is that C is 400cm deep(short), but nano is already 400cm deep.


----------



## JackCY

Damn, 400cm deep case, I better install new wide doors to get that into the house.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Damn, 400cm deep case, I better install new wide doors to get that into the house.


Need room for the old hard drive.



Anyways, I would like to have more space between the GPU and the PSU, and having a magnetic dust filter up top like in the Define C models would be a plus.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Building my new rig on Monday (Black Z170 rig in sig)

Really looking forward to using the Define C but I think it's gonna be a bit tight.


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Need room for the old hard drive.
> 
> Anyways, I would like to have more space between the GPU and the PSU, and having a magnetic dust filter up top like in the Define C models would be a plus.


If there is more space between PSU and GPU and there is magnetic top that will make it Define C mini. How this will be different from Defince C Mini? In other words you need Define C with Nano word on the box, because that will be the only difference.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zorvalth*
> 
> If there is more space between PSU and GPU and there is magnetic top that will make it Define C mini. How this will be different from Defince C Mini? In other words you need Define C with Nano word on the box, because that will be the only difference.


So giving a little more room between the PSU and the GPU somehow makes a mini ITX case a microATX case?


----------



## zorvalth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> So giving a little more room between the PSU and the GPU somehow makes a mini ITX case a microATX case?


Yes thats basically the diff between itx and matx board. If they increase the space between PSU and GPU no point of being ITX anymore. Why do you think they didnt make Nano C

Difference between Nano and Define C mini:

- 3 slots more (space) between PSU and GPU
- PSU Cover
- Top Filter.

So you are asking them to convert nano to Define Mini C and name it Nano C.


----------



## guzzoline

Hey all, finally decided to join the Fractal Design club by picking up a Define R5! It was a tough choice b/w that and the Define S. Ultimately the front pull out filter, door, and extra USB ports won me over. =) Pics of the finished build soon once I decide on a video card!

I did have a couple question for all you R5 owners though! I noticed the windowed side panel is very wobbly when off the case. Also it never sits flat when I put it up against a wall or lay it down. It's always in a "flexed/bent" state. Is this normal?

In additon, the fan controller is kinda weird. I can start it up on 7 or 12V, and all is good, and I can switch b/w the two... but try to go to 5V, and system freeze! Start it up at 5V, good til I try to go up and same thing. Is this a controller issue or possibly an incompatibility with my PSU?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Can you install a full size optical drive in the front of the Core 1500? I've looked around the web, looks like the mounts are there, and there are a couple of score lines on the front panel, but I can't find a pic of one with a drive installed.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Looks like it's possible, found a page in their FAQ (duh).
> 
> http://support.fractal-design.com/support/solutions/articles/4000055117-core-1500-install-5-25-drive


OK, I bought the Core 1500, my second Fractal case after the Node 605. Clean little fellow. And I was able to mount a Pioneer BDR-2209 right in there, no sweat.

The rest of the components:

Mobo - Asus ROG Maximus VIII Gene

CPU - i7-6700K

Cooler - Noctua NH-D14 It spec'd to be a couple mm shorter than the D15, and it just did fit the Core 1500 case.

SSD - Samsung 950 Pro 512GB NVME Worked great right out of the gate, installed the Samsung driver and get 2797 in AS SSD benchmark

RAM - 16GB of GSkill Trident Z 3200

PSU - SeaSonic 650X

Windows 10 Pro

GPU - Asus 1070 Strix

No pics yet, cable management is non-existent right now.

I'm building this as a gift for someone else, I would have gone for a little more powerful GPU, but it should be a great starter rig to grow into.


----------



## SchmoSalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> Looks nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are you going to use this rig for ?
> Also, about the main fan : can you regulate it from the BIOS ? Your MoBo has 3 PWM fan headers, according to SuperMicro. And if it's not true PWM headers, the Silent Wings 2 might have a wide enough voltage range (I used the 140mm version in an older rig for a long time, on a Z87 board with no true-PWM headers, only voltage controled).


Right now I'm using it for DHCP, DNS, IIS (as an internal web server), MySQL, and Windows file serving. I might try dropping the Windows routing features and setting up a pfSense VM. I'm not sure how well that would work though. When I have my LANs it will also act as a Steam caching server. I will add other tasks to it as I need them.

I didn't see any fan control settings in the BIOS. It is UEFI but it looks like a classic barebones BIOS. I added a resistor that I had from a Noctua fan and it's definitely quieter now.


----------



## jodasanchezz

Hi,
im Planing to Move my Setup into an Define S without Window.
Focus Nr1 try ti Keep the GPU an cold as possible (GPU Boost 3 / my Titan runs atm @2050 stabel 0v +225core +325 on the mem)
Focus 2 Try to stay Silent

what are u thinking about the 2 Noctua as intake Push and the 3 Gts an outtake push. (maybe negative air pressure in the case)
alternative

3 GT in the top as intake pull and the 2 Noctua as aouttake push (pressure should be positive in the case)


----------



## K1mer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Enigma5*
> 
> My quick Define C Build!
> 
> Nice improvements by Fractal although a couple small issues like the cutouts in the PSU cover being a bit small (for PCIe cables and USB 3.0 header).


Hello,

Is it possible to remove the PSU cover without screw up the case?!!!


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Rough photo of my Define C build.

Lack of cable ties and time means it looks rushed but I will have time tomorrow to get some ties and sort it out.

It's very quiet and cool so I'm happy.

Crazy that it's the same size as the Phanteks Evolv mATX in the background.


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2907159/width/500/height/1000
> 
> Rough photo of my Define C build.
> 
> Lack of cable ties and time means it looks rushed but I will have time tomorrow to get some ties and sort it out.
> 
> It's very quiet and cool so I'm happy.
> 
> Crazy that it's the same size as the Phanteks Evolv mATX in the background.


How much space is for the front radiator with 28,5 cm PCB of GPU ?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> How much space is for the front radiator with 28,5 cm PCB of GPU ?


Well that card is 27cm and there's roughly 15mm between the end of the pcb and the radiator (30mm thick) so it would be pretty close.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K1mer0*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Is it possible to remove the PSU cover without screw up the case?!!!


Not the whole thing, but you can remove a panel near the front of the PSU shroud for expanded cooling options.


----------



## xx9e02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I guess Fractal went the safe route and assumed that a non-modular 180mm in there might probably not fit.. but so long as its modular it should be pretty doable.
> 
> PS: in any case you be the guinea pig since I have the same psu and I might migrate to the Define C. I simply love how compact it is.


Finally received mine from Newegg - here are some PSU clearance pictures

EVGA 750G2 - 180mm psu




Just enough space to shove some extra cable length in there! Not sure why Fractal went and said 175mm, maybe 175mm max if you want to use that bottom chassis mounted HDD slot? Another user posted earlier asking about a 200mm PSU in the Mini C - if I recall correctly the Mini C and regular C have the same depth; and there would be just enough space for the PSU + Modular connectors coming out, but no spare room (unless of course, you remove the drive cages). It MIGHT partially block the third psu shroud opening where the front panel connectors go as well.

Also, if anyone is planning to use a radiator @ the top, make sure you have flathead screws otherwise the mesh won't lay flat. My H100i doesn't have flathead screws so I had to mount it in the front until I find some.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *prava*
> 
> I guess Fractal went the safe route and assumed that a non-modular 180mm in there might probably not fit.. but so long as its modular it should be pretty doable.
> 
> PS: in any case you be the guinea pig since I have the same psu and I might migrate to the Define C. I simply love how compact it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally received mine from Newegg - here are some PSU clearance pictures
> 
> *EVGA 750G2 - 180mm psu*
> 
> Just enough space to shove some extra cable length in there! Not sure why Fractal went and said 175mm, maybe 175mm max if you want to use that bottom chassis mounted HDD slot? Another user posted earlier asking about a 200mm PSU in the Mini C - if I recall correctly the Mini C and regular C have the same depth; and there would be just enough space for the PSU + Modular connectors coming out, but no spare room (unless of course, you remove the drive cages). It MIGHT partially block the third psu shroud opening where the front panel connectors go as well.
> 
> Also, if anyone is planning to use a radiator @ the top, *make sure you have flathead screws otherwise the mesh won't lay flat*. My H100i doesn't have flathead screws so I had to mount it in the front until I find some.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, reviews tend to miss stuff like that. When you said flat head screw, I'm assuming you mean counter-sink screws? Flat-head implies the type of screw driver you need, some countries just call it a flat screwdriver, or a slot, others a flat-head.


----------



## xx9e02

Yeah, those are what I meant.








I just went off what Home Depot called them

#6-32 1-1/4" for fan+rad, #6-32 1/4" for rad only

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-32-x-1-1-4-in-Phillips-Flat-Head-Machine-Screws-6-Pack-28351/202706122


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> Yeah, those are what I meant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just went off what Home Depot called them
> 
> #6-32 1-1/4" for fan+rad, #6-32 1/4" for rad only
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-32-x-1-1-4-in-Phillips-Flat-Head-Machine-Screws-6-Pack-28351/202706122


I am looking at the Define Mini C to replace my aging Core 1000, I'm sure there is one somewhere, but I haven't seen a good review showing that you can put in:

- pump under shroud with HDD cage removed

- 120 mm Rad on rear

- 240 mm Rad on top

- 240 mm Rad on front

- tube reservoir wherever you want


----------



## xx9e02

Offsetting the top radiator slightly towards the front lets me use the pan screws that were included with my H100i. I think you can squeeze in all three rads if you remove the hard drive cage, the panel covering it, and place the front radiator all the way down. I'm not sure how much height you lose with the mATX version so the rear rad might be a tight squeeze


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> Offsetting the top radiator slightly towards the front lets me use the pan screws that were included with my H100i. I think you can squeeze in all three rads if you remove the hard drive cage, the panel covering it, and place the front radiator all the way down. I'm not sure how much height you lose with the mATX version so the rear rad might be a tight squeeze


Even two 240 mm Rads would be better then my modded Core 1000 barely fitting a 240 Slim + 120 stacked on top of each other.


----------



## xx9e02

Sloppy cables and iPhone pictures. I didn't tie anything down as I want to replace X58 with Z270 or AM4 when they release, so for now I'm content with leaving it sloppy (plus I can get rid of a few cables at that point... usb 3.0->2.0 converter, a whole sata lead, etc.). I'm letting the H100i fan control the front and top radiator fans, all for intake. The rear is controlled by mobo.

Surprisingly, the SSDs were the perfect width apart to use with standard psu sata connectors. I had to use an extension in the S340 to get it the way I wanted. There isn't too much space down in the PSU shroud (because of my 180mm), I'd recommend either going full custom length cables or using stock PSU cables if you're using a longer PSU and plan to keep the HD cage.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> Sloppy cables and iPhone pictures. I didn't tie anything down as I want to replace X58 with Z270 or AM4 when they release, so for now I'm content with leaving it sloppy (plus I can get rid of a few cables at that point... usb 3.0->2.0 converter, a whole sata lead, etc.). I'm letting the H100i fan control the front and top radiator fans, all for intake. The rear is controlled by mobo.
> 
> Surprisingly, the SSDs were the perfect width apart to use with standard psu sata connectors. I had to use an extension in the S340 to get it the way I wanted. There isn't too much space down in the PSU shroud (because of my 180mm), I'd recommend either going full custom length cables or using stock PSU cables if you're using a longer PSU and plan to keep the HD cage.


Thanks for the pictures. I plan to remove the drive cage as I run just a single M.2 drive so that frees up a lot of space on top of using a modular PSU. I plan to eventually jump on the new 650 W G3 at 150 mm so there should be plenty of room to play by the looks of it.

It does look like adding a 120 mm to the back might be hard if you put a RAD up top and in the front. So leaving the rear as just a fan would work okay for me I think.


----------



## DyndaS

I see 4 holes on the left side. Do you see thread in that holes? Im wondering if it's not place for glass panel in the future.


----------



## criminal




----------



## fleetfeather

Your lack of LED sync rustles my jimmies


----------



## xx9e02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> I see 4 holes on the left side. Do you see thread in that holes? Im wondering if it's not place for glass panel in the future.


I can see threading in those holes; they seem to be punched in similarly to the side panel screws on the rear. Hope they have an option for buying the future panel separately (if it does happen)


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criminal*


Very nice.

I'm to the point of going to ZMT. Be way easier to get my rigs up and going then fooling with bending acrylic tubes.


----------



## LegoFarmer

I really would love to see a refresh of the design S with a taller top to allow for thicker radiators. I would be able to use my 45mm 420 radiator on top and people could use thicker 360mm radiators without worrying about interference with their RAM. It's the only thing stopping me from getting the case.

They can call it the Define S+.


----------



## criminal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Very nice.
> 
> I'm to the point of going to ZMT. Be way easier to get my rigs up and going then fooling with bending acrylic tubes.


Thanks. With two young kids I can't even imagine trying to assemble a loop using acrylic tubes that I need to bend. ZMT is quick and easy.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *criminal*
> 
> Thanks. With two young kids I can't even imagine trying to assemble a loop using acrylic tubes that I need to bend. ZMT is quick and easy.


Well, with me, I'm past the whole look fancy rig part. Just want to get mine up and running for folding, boinc, and other heavy tasks.

Just, I have to get whole new barbs though.







O well.

Lucky I don't have to fool with kids. I think I go insane if I had too. Though, I do have a old kitty that is like a darn kid, she likes to stick her head into my rigs when I run them without their sides on.


----------



## DHphoto

Just got my Nano s today and have a question... sticking to air only as the con's outweigh the pro's for going the liquid route to me specifically. I was going to get a blower style 1060 but there is a good deal for the MSI card, I'm sticking to the included fans but was wondering if going the dual fan route which would be the better spot for an addition fan? the front or bottom? The front should help push more towards the back but the bottom should fee the on fan making up for the SPU starved other fan. Will be using an SF 450 low profile to help with that problem as well.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DHphoto*
> 
> Just got my Nano s today and have a question... sticking to air only as the con's outweigh the pro's for going the liquid route to me specifically. I was going to get a blower style 1060 but there is a good deal for the MSI card, I'm sticking to the included fans but was wondering if going the dual fan route which would be the better spot for an addition fan? the front or bottom? The front should help push more towards the back but the bottom should fee the on fan making up for the SPU starved other fan. Will be using an SF 450 low profile to help with that problem as well.


Might be worth just trying both orientations and benchmarking it. It isn't super time consuming to screw a case fan into two different locations, particularly in this circumstance


----------



## arkansaswoman22

Recently went to microcenter and gathered all the parts i needed for me to build my pc. Next day built it and here is the picture on the day i got it running.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Define S users: Talk to me!









Could I fit a 30mm 420 on top with fans and still keep the rear fan or nah?


----------



## thlmk

Hello first time posting here. I am going to buy the Fractal Define C, transferring from a R4. Now, I have a Phanteks PH-TC14PE, fantastic cooler, so quiet but very big. Would I be able to fit that in the normal version of the C? I saw that they say max cooler height is 170mm, but I saw a review from Sweclockers where they had a Noctua NH-U14S which is 165mm in the Windowed version, which states a max 168mm heigh, and the reviewer said he had ample space left.

The PH-14PE is 171mm, which is 1mm too tall, but is this a case of Fractal being very conservative with their recommendations, just like the max 175 PSU depth when 180mm ones fits fine? I have no issue with buying the Noctua one to be compatible with my new case as it is Black Friday tomorrow after all, and I'll get it for cheaper then, but would love to save my money and keep the Phanteks Cooler. Ty for your input


----------



## DHphoto

Whats a goof fully modular power supply for the nano s? I was going to go with the SF 450 due to the extra space from GPU but there are really good deals on ATX supplies, I've seen plenty of people run ATX power with a very small gap on the closed gpu fan but nobody has been detailed when it comes to regarding the temps and impact from this. Anyone chime in on this? I have 8 hours before the new egg discount ends, haha.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DHphoto*
> 
> Whats a goof fully modular power supply for the nano s? I was going to go with the SF 450 due to the extra space from GPU but there are really good deals on ATX supplies, I've seen plenty of people run ATX power with a very small gap on the closed gpu fan but nobody has been detailed when it comes to regarding the temps and impact from this. Anyone chime in on this? I have 8 hours before the new egg discount ends, haha.


A very good video about this topic exists on the BitWit YouTube channel. Definitively, it would be better to go for a reference cooled card if you used a ATX unit - both for temps and for noise output.

In fact, I have a Nano S with an ATX power supply and a reference 1070. I have the non windowed version of the case, and in Valley it's pretty pleasant in terms of noise. I'm unsure how things change if you get the windowed case.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DHphoto*
> 
> Whats a goof fully modular power supply for the nano s? I was going to go with the SF 450 due to the extra space from GPU but there are really good deals on ATX supplies, I've seen plenty of people run ATX power with a very small gap on the closed gpu fan but nobody has been detailed when it comes to regarding the temps and impact from this. Anyone chime in on this? I have 8 hours before the new egg discount ends, haha.


This one gets great reviews. I lean towards Seasonic's but this one looks pretty darn good too.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053&cm_re=evga_g2-_-17-438-053-_-Product


----------



## DHphoto

I was originally going to get a blower style but the cheapness of th asus drew me away from me...oddly enough im going for another cheapie from asus, the dual version in white.

DanH that PSU is the one thats currently in my cart ? because it isnt too tall.I was just seeing if i could go cheaper to try to squeeze a 1070 in my budget which is already killing it

So far..

I5 6600k 180

Gigabyte z170 wifi 108

Nano s windowed 54

Currently in cart...

Cryorg H5 47

Samsung 850 evo 500gb 129 plus warch dogs 2

Gp-14 fan 12

Vengence 16gb 2400 76

Asus geforce 1060 259 (239 rebate)

Evga supernova gs 550w 79 (59 rebate)

Extra 5% off on new egg mobile $836 total!!

Just wondering if i should go ahead and just take on 100 for the 1070, i dont really play new titles often, just open worlds. Squad, dayz, gtav etc. My first goal was under 900 then i challenged myself getting exactly what i wanted no cheaping out for under 850 and i achieved it.


----------



## Dan-H

Newegg has the R5 Black Silent on sale for $69.99 USD free shipping.


----------



## Ru1Sous4

Can someone confirm if I will be able to fit 2 x 3.5'' HD and 2 x 2.5'' HD plus a AIO H100i GTX on a Nano S?


----------



## killeraxemannic

Question for all of you with the R5. Can you mount the smaller 3 HDD cage at the top where the optical drive cages are? I have an R5 coming and I am trying to plan out what I am going to do. The advantage to this for me would be that you can have a front mount radiator as well as use the bottom intake fan to cool the graphics card.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Question for all of you with the R5. Can you mount the smaller 3 HDD cage at the top where the optical drive cages are? I have an R5 coming and I am trying to plan out what I am going to do. The advantage to this for me would be that you can have a front mount radiator as well as use the bottom intake fan to cool the graphics card.


I think so.

there is also this option.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> I think so.
> 
> there is also this option.


Right yeah that's what I am going to be doing if it doesn't fit up top. It would be nice if it fits up top because then I could put a bottom intake fan in where the hard drives are in this picture though.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Right yeah that's what I am going to be doing if it doesn't fit up top. It would be nice if it fits up top because then I could put a bottom intake fan in where the hard drives are in this picture though.


maybe we should just read Fractal's website...









http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black

_The ODD cage can easily be removed to gain additional interior space; the area can be freed up to allow for increased airflow, to provide a new place for HDD cage mounting or to make more room for water cooling components._


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> maybe we should just read Fractal's website...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r5-black
> 
> _The ODD cage can easily be removed to gain additional interior space; the area can be freed up to allow for increased airflow, to provide a new place for HDD cage mounting or to make more room for water cooling components._


Yeah I saw that. But I haven't actually found any pictures of the smaller bay mounted up there just the larger one. I also downloaded the manual for the case and it doesn't say anything or show any pictures of the smaller cage mounted on the top just the larger one.


----------



## Dan-H

I've got one arriving in a day or two. I'll let you know.


----------



## LegoFarmer

This is kind of off-topic, but what are my LED options with a Define S? I kind of want UV because it looks cool and I might add UV dye eventually.


----------



## Predaking

Here's my Fractal case. The wiring came out really tidy and surprisingly easy to do. Probably the best wiring job I was ever able to do in a small case.


----------



## Fractal Design

Just a heads up, the Define R5 Black Windowed version has a pretty sweet deal going on with Newegg's Cyber Monday sale right now ($79 after $10 off promo code FDSAVE10): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352049&cm_re=define_r5-_-11-352-049-_-Product

Also, the Black Friday sale on the solid side panel version was extended due to the popular demand, so you can still pick it up for $69 today with promo code CMFDZTU10: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352048&cm_re=define_r5-_-11-352-048-_-Product

I believe today's the last day on both deals.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Just a heads up, the Define R5 Black Windowed version has a pretty sweet deal going on with Newegg's Cyber Monday sale right now ($79 after $10 off promo code FDSAVE10): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352049&cm_re=define_r5-_-11-352-049-_-Product
> 
> Also, the Black Friday sale on the solid side panel version was extended due to the popular demand, so you can still pick it up for $69 today with promo code CMFDZTU10: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352048&cm_re=define_r5-_-11-352-048-_-Product
> 
> I believe today's the last day on both deals.


Picked one up!!! Hey can you answer my question about the R5 though?! Can the smaller 3 bay hard drive cage be mounted at the top where the 5.25 bays are?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Picked one up!!! Hey can you answer my question about the R5 though?! Can the smaller 3 bay hard drive cage be mounted at the top where the 5.25 bays are?


The 5 bay drive cage can, but the smaller 3 drive cage can only mount to the floor of the case. You could take both cages out and get some 5.25 to 3.5 adapters to mount 2 HDDs in the optical bays as an alternative though.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> The 5 bay drive cage can, but the smaller 3 drive cage can only mount to the floor of the case. You could take both cages out and get some 5.25 to 3.5 adapters to mount 2 HDDs in the optical bays as an alternative though.


Ok cool that's what I was planning on doing anyways. Thanks for letting me know!


----------



## r9miner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LegoFarmer*
> 
> Define S users: Talk to me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could I fit a 30mm 420 on top with fans and still keep the rear fan or nah?


Yes, but only if you put the rear fan on the outside of the case. Or maaaybe a 15mm slim fan on the inside but I doubt it. You've only got about 460mm max to work with in there.


----------



## Maddreg

Will join the club pretty soon - ordered define mini C


----------



## Fractal Design

So I'm not usually in the practice of posting sale stuff out of nowhere, but I figured some of you guys would want a heads up on this one since there are some pretty sweet deals that I'm honestly a little surprised we got Newegg to roll with right after Black Friday/Cyber Monday.

I'll list all the deals below for the sake of convenience and you can find them all linked here.

Define R5 Titanium Silent ATX Midtower - $79.99 (reg. $109.99)

Define R5 Black Silent ATX Midtower - $79.99 (reg. $109.99)

Define R5 Black Window Silent ATX Midtower - $89.99 (reg. $119.99)

Define S Black Silent ATX Midtower - $59.99 (reg. $79.99)

Define S Black Window Silent ATX Midtower - $69.99 (reg. $89.99)

Define Nano S Black Silent Mini ITX Mini Tower - $49.99 (reg. $64.99)

Define Nano S Black Window Silent Mini ITX Mini Tower - $54.99 (reg. $69.99)

Arc Midi R2 Black Window High-Airflow ATX Midtower - $79.99 (reg. $109.99)

Node 605 Black Aluminum/Steel ATX HTPC/Media Center - $99.99 (reg. $159.99)

Core 1100 Black MATX Mini Tower - $29.99 (reg. $39.99)

Define XL R2 Black Silent EATX Full Tower - $99.99 (reg. $129.99)

Node 304 Black Aluminum/Steel Mini-ITX Small Form Factor - $59.99 (reg. $89.99)

Node 804 Black Window Aluminum/Steel MATX Cube - $69.99 (reg. $109.99)

Node 202 Black Slim Profile Mini-ITX - $59.99 (reg. $79.99)

Node 202 Black with Integra SFX 450w PSU Slim Profile Mini-ITX - $109.99 (reg. $139.99)

Deals end Dec. 8th.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays guys.


----------



## -terabyte-

@Fractal Design: any deal for Europe somewhere?


----------



## DHphoto

So i just finished my nano S build...first build ever and of course not good news. All fans start up then they PSU clicks off for a sec then comes back on, clicks off etc, etc.

Running an EVGA SN G2 550w

Gigabyte z170 wifi

Corsair vengence lpx

Any help would be rad, i dont know if there is a problem with the components or if im missing something somewhere. I dont see any loose connections or extra cables.


----------



## xx9e02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DHphoto*
> 
> So i just finished my nano S build...first build ever and of course not good news. All fans start up then they PSU clicks off for a sec then comes back on, clicks off etc, etc.
> 
> Running an EVGA SN G2 550w
> 
> Gigabyte z170 wifi
> 
> Corsair vengence lpx
> 
> Any help would be rad, i dont know if there is a problem with the components or if im missing something somewhere. I dont see any loose connections or extra cables.


Any GPU? Sometimes mobo bios is set to UEFI only for all components or Fast boot is enabled in which case enable legacy for pcie devices / disable fast boot.

Reseat ram / cpu too


----------



## DHphoto

Yeah, Asus 1070.

It never makes it to bios, 5 sec on, 1 sec off


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DHphoto*
> 
> So i just finished my nano S build...first build ever and of course not good news. All fans start up then they PSU clicks off for a sec then comes back on, clicks off etc, etc.
> 
> Running an EVGA SN G2 550w
> 
> Gigabyte z170 wifi
> 
> Corsair vengence lpx
> 
> Any help would be rad, i dont know if there is a problem with the components or if im missing something somewhere. I dont see any loose connections or extra cables.


I would check and re-seat the CPU power cable and the 24 pin ATX cable.

I would unplug from the MoBo everything else from the MoBo.

Disconnect power and SATA from all drives, unplug the USB 3 header.

Then power on the system and see how it does.


----------



## DHphoto

Let me know if anyone sees anything wrong. Im not a fan of the thick usb 30 cable taking up so much room. I had to break a small plastic piece of the C5 ultimate in ordor to even get it in without it touching the cable


----------



## xx9e02

Try powering on without the GPU installed, single stick of ram, and no drives like Dan-H suggested.


----------



## DHphoto

Ok took everything out and replugged out of the case. No gpu, switched ram around, still cuts out.

Edit....switched the ram around again and its holding strong. Gotta head to the gym now but will keep you informed once i get back, thanks for the help!


----------



## LegoFarmer

Putting my fans outside in the define s (front fans) for more radiator space. How is airflow? I read somewhere that the front bezel by mnpctech doesn't actually help increase airflow so much that it will change temps and that the stock bezel with side vents is fine for airflow using outside fans. Is this true?


----------



## athlon 64

I have rebuilt my Arc mini R2 rig in a define mini C.
Great case, it has that "tank" build quality of the define series, the arc and core series felt thin and flimsy.
And inside it really feels large for a regular mATX build. Cable managment is also amazing.
I also bought 2 bequiet silent wings 3 (140mm) for the front - 1600rpm versions, at 5V not audible but still push a decent amount of air.
In the back i have a PWM controlled noiseblocker multiframe.
I will probably be upgrading my haswell platform to ZEN next year so i will buy a motherboard that supports fan voltage control.
That will allow me to set my fans up better then now.


----------



## Remmes

The Define C has this top dust filter, does anyone know whether this would fit on the Define S as well?

Really wish FD would make these things for previous cases..


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmes*
> 
> The Define C has this top dust filter, does anyone know whether this would fit on the Define S as well?
> 
> Really wish FD would make these things for previous cases..


No, it will be too short. You can get one from Demciflex.

http://www.demcifilter.com/p0564/Fractal-Design-R5-3-Vent-Top-Dust-Filter.aspx


----------



## Remmes

Good to know, thanks!


----------



## icecool

Do you guys think it will be okay to put the Define Nano S on the floor even though it is carpeted? will the rubber feet helps with cooling? and also does the case really needs a blower type GPU or a GPU with fans should be okay?

thanks!


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecool*
> 
> Do you guys think it will be okay to put the Define Nano S on the floor even though it is carpeted? will the rubber feet helps with cooling? and also does the case really needs a blower type GPU or a GPU with fans should be okay?
> 
> thanks!


As long as you use something to get it off the floor a few inches (lego bricks, pieces of wood, cart of some sort) it should be fine... You just need that separation to provide a path for air to flow easily.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icecool*
> 
> Do you guys think it will be okay to put the Define Nano S on the floor even though it is carpeted? will the rubber feet helps with cooling? and also does the case really needs a blower type GPU or a GPU with fans should be okay?
> 
> thanks!


A open style GPU cooler would still work, but it would work best if you had an SFX unit to increase the gap between the GPU fans and the top/bottom of the PSU.

There's a video on the topic of aftermarket vs reference cooling in the Nano S on the BitWit youtube channel that should help answer your questions


----------



## letard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> Sloppy cables and iPhone pictures. I didn't tie anything down as I want to replace X58 with Z270 or AM4 when they release, so for now I'm content with leaving it sloppy (plus I can get rid of a few cables at that point... usb 3.0->2.0 converter, a whole sata lead, etc.). I'm letting the H100i fan control the front and top radiator fans, all for intake. The rear is controlled by mobo.
> 
> Surprisingly, the SSDs were the perfect width apart to use with standard psu sata connectors. I had to use an extension in the S340 to get it the way I wanted. There isn't too much space down in the PSU shroud (because of my 180mm), I'd recommend either going full custom length cables or using stock PSU cables if you're using a longer PSU and plan to keep the HD cage.


Looking good. Ihave just ordered a mini c and still running an x58 too. I will have to stick with that for another year probally


----------



## icecool

thanks guy will check out the video, I am planning to build a quiet ITX PC build and this case seems to be ticking the right boxes!


----------



## axipher

Got my RX480 in thanks to @tictoc

It's so tiny with a waterblock and makes the Core 1000 look like it has so much room in it.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Got my RX480 in thanks to @tictoc
> 
> It's so tiny with a waterblock and makes the Core 1000 look like it has so much room in it.


Looks good. What reservoir is that? Looks like a small acrylic double helix inside. Is it?


----------



## fleetfeather

I'm all about that air-cooled life these days. Hard tube bending, bleeding and draining is just something I don't want to deal with anymore. Fortunately, the Nano S handles air-cooling well:



Specs in the sig. And yes, you can fit a D15 in the windowless Nano S









edit: the fans in front of the intake are the Phanteks PH-F140HP which you can read about here.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I'm all about that air-cooled life these days. Hard tube bending, bleeding and draining is just something I don't want to deal with anymore. Fortunately, the Nano S handles air-cooling well:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Specs in the sig. And yes, you can fit a D15 in the windowless Nano S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: the fans in front of the intake are the Phanteks PH-F140HP which you can read about here.


Agree with you sir. My next build will be compact and all air. Had my fill of water cooling nonsense. All it took was changing the mobo 3 times and this third time being a different brand that actually required me to make some new runs to burn me out on the entire thing.


----------



## atkars

I have a few questions about Fractal Design Nano S. (windowed)

1. Will the Corsair RM750 fit in this case?
2. Will the Noctua NH-D15 fit? (windowed version)
3. Will the Corsair Vengeance RAM conflict with Noctua NH-D14 or NH-D15? RAM model: CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10

Thank you.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Got my RX480 in thanks to @tictoc
> 
> It's so tiny with a waterblock and makes the Core 1000 look like it has so much room in it.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good. What reservoir is that? Looks like a small acrylic double helix inside. Is it?
Click to expand...

Thanks 

Darkside Barrel 125: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/barrel-125-multi-port-cylindrical-reservoir/


----------



## letard

Got my Mini C today,

Really like it. The only other Decent case i have had is the Phaneteks Entho Luxe Pro. This case the material feels thinner but there is no sharp edges anywhere. and once the panels are on its more sturdy than the Phaneteks, But thats probally because of the luxe being a full tower.
This is the size difference, I wanted to go to a smaller case because i go to alot of lans and was sick of dragging it around everywhere. The Mini C is 1/2 the weight too.


Sorry for the bad photos my phone is a potato.






I need some better fans on my H100i to drop the noise down. the cooling works just as well as the full tower i had.

a few small grips with building it.
You cannot move the HDD sled out of the case unless the powersupply is removed first ( dont think any review has mentioned it that i read).
The power supply has to be removed or pushed to a slight angle to get USB motherboard headers in through the holes in the PSU cover, they only have to be marginally larger to fit while its installed.

apart from that i really like it. I am holding onto my X58 platform until i no longer can game at a solid frame rate.


----------



## JAM3S121

I'm really interested in building a Fractal Design S for watercooling. My question is how do people deal with the top panel?

Exhaust, intake or just keep it closed? It looks like a lot of dust will accumulate on the top the case, in any configuration but I wasn't sure if 1 360 rad could cool a i7 4770k and gtx 1070.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> I'm really interested in building a Fractal Design S for watercooling. My question is how do people deal with the top panel?
> 
> Exhaust, intake or just keep it closed? It looks like a lot of dust will accumulate on the top the case, in any configuration but I wasn't sure if 1 360 rad could cool a i7 4770k and gtx 1070.


A 360 rad will cool one CPU and one GPU just fine. I would recommend keeping the panels installed in the top, they help a lot with noise levels. What is your aim? Quiet? Cooling performance over noise?


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> A 360 rad will cool one CPU and one GPU just fine. I would recommend keeping the panels installed in the top, they help a lot with noise levels. What is your aim? Quiet? Cooling performance over noise?


Mild overclock on both GPU and CPU. It will be my first loop and I think the fractal case is perfect for what I want to do, I just know based on where I keep my PC it will be collecting a lot of dust if i open up those top vents.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Mild overclock on both GPU and CPU. It will be my first loop and I think the fractal case is perfect for what I want to do, I just know based on where I keep my PC it will be collecting a lot of dust if i open up those top vents.


A mild overclock, even a strong overclock, on that 360 rad will be just fine. A lot of people overestimate how much rad space they need, but it really just depends on what you're looking for. Dead silence is maximizing rad space with really slow fans. Pure performance is putting Deltas on all the rads you can fit in your case / room / house / yard. Also, fans are so different and peoples' hearing is so different that you just have to find the fans that appeal to you! Personally, the Phanteks fans I have are amazing.

Don't forget pics!!


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> A mild overclock, even a strong overclock, on that 360 rad will be just fine. A lot of people overestimate how much rad space they need, but it really just depends on what you're looking for. Dead silence is maximizing rad space with really slow fans. Pure performance is putting Deltas on all the rads you can fit in your case / room / house / yard. Also, fans are so different and peoples' hearing is so different that you just have to find the fans that appeal to you! Personally, the Phanteks fans I have are amazing.
> 
> Don't forget pics!!


It sounds like I will definitely try out the 360 rad in front. I personally think it should work fine, its one of those I have all these slots for radiators lets fill them up! But I don't want to bombard my case with dust. This case really fits more boxes than the others I've looked at (450d is nice but optical drives are unnecessary and the mechanical drive placement sucks)


----------



## killeraxemannic

Any go to fans to replace the Fractal GP14's on the Define R5? They are pretty quiet but they are now the loudest part of my system even on low and I am trying to get it as quiet as possible. I was looking at either the Phanteks PH-F140SP or the Noctua NF-A14 ULN but I am open to any option that is quieter than the GP14's. I will be running them all of the stock R5 fan controller. Can't do PWM because my board has issues with it and I don't want to buy a fan controller so the stock R5 controller is what I want to use.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> It sounds like I will definitely try out the 360 rad in front. I personally think it should work fine, its one of those I have all these slots for radiators lets fill them up! But I don't want to bombard my case with dust. This case really fits more boxes than the others I've looked at (450d is nice but optical drives are unnecessary and the mechanical drive placement sucks)


This case is phenomenal for either a good air-cooled build or a sleek custom water setup. As for me, I left Corsail cases in the dust long ago... a lot of price for a little satisfaction, if any. You've made a wise choice, good luck on your build! Can't wait to see it!


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Any go to fans to replace the Fractal GP14's on the Define R5? They are pretty quiet but they are now the loudest part of my system even on low and I am trying to get it as quiet as possible. I was looking at either the Phanteks PH-F140SP or the Noctua NF-A14 ULN but I am open to any option that is quieter than the GP14's. I will be running them all of the stock R5 fan controller. Can't do PWM because my board has issues with it and I don't want to buy a fan controller so the stock R5 controller is what I want to use.


Phanteks makes phenomenal fans, I highly recommend them. Didn't you have some posts on the air cooling subforum on this topic?


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Phanteks makes phenomenal fans, I highly recommend them. Didn't you have some posts on the air cooling subforum on this topic?


Sort of... That was about replacing the fans in my old Corsair case which I ultimately dumped for the R5... Figured someone here might have personal experience with replacing the R5 fans. I don't want to just up and replace the GP14 fans with Phanteks if they aren't any better or are worse. I might ask there too but I figured I would try here first.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Sort of... That was about replacing the fans in my old Corsair case which I ultimately dumped for the R5... Figured someone here might have personal experience with replacing the R5 fans. I don't want to just up and replace the GP14 fans with Phanteks if they aren't any better or are worse. I might ask there too but I figured I would try here first.


Ah that's right. Well I picked up 4 PH-F140XP fans which I really love. They're PWM and they are ultra freaking quiet and move a lot of air. The SP series is really well reviewed, if you're using voltage control that's the fan to get. The Fractal fans are ok-ish but their Venturi series is better than the GP series and the Phanteks is better than all of them.


----------



## atkars

Can you fit Noctua NH-D15 in Windowed Nano S without changing anything?


----------



## smithydan

I just came in here to say that I am really impressed by the quality of fractal cases, I got my Nano S yesterday and man, these things are solid!
Yes I have owned numerous brands.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> I just came in here to say that I am really impressed by the quality of fractal cases, I got my Nano S yesterday and man, these things are solid!
> Yes I have owned numerous brands.


Glad to hear you're loving it! These cases are just phenomenal, you get a lot for your money, and it's not a lot of money!

Pics?


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Glad to hear you're loving it! These cases are just phenomenal, you get a lot for your money, and it's not a lot of money!
> 
> Pics?


No build yet, only the little case









At present waiting to hear back from mnpctech.


----------



## dainfamous

Can you fit 3x3.5 disks inside
a Nano S? How? One in the back, one on the floor. Can you put another in the front on the opposite side of the back 3.5 placement? Thanks


----------



## ZippitZippo

Whats the best way of modding the Define S side window for tempered glass?


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Have you seen Paul's Hardware's glass mod? I'm thinking of trying that method myself.


----------



## LegoFarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippitZippo*
> 
> Whats the best way of modding the Define S side window for tempered glass?


The PaulsHardware video is good. Let's assume you got the windowed define S. With a dremel, remove the tabs that secure the stock window. The tempered glass window will be secured with the tape of the Gods along with some u-channel for a better look.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atkars*
> 
> I have a few questions about Fractal Design Nano S. (windowed)


1. Will the Corsair RM750 fit in this case?

You might be able to get it in there, but it'd cover the through-hole for you to be able to route your power cables cleanly. If at all possible it'd be best to go with a PSU 160mm or shorter. If you're still shopping, the Integra M 750W is a great alternative at just 140mm in length: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/power-supplies/integra-m/integra-m-750w

2. Will the Noctua NH-D15 fit? (windowed version)

Officially the Noctua NH-D15 with its 165mm height does exceed the 160mm maximum specified for the Nano S, but a number of users have reported that it does still fit:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/4a8lvo/are_the_fractal_design_define_nano_s_and_the/

3. Will the Corsair Vengeance RAM conflict with Noctua NH-D14 or NH-D15? RAM model: CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10

That I can't really answer without having the parts to test myself, but I do personally lean towards the lower profile ram modules since the ones with extra tall heat spreaders do seem to have a tendency to get in the way of coolers, rads and other nearby components.


----------



## Jflisk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atkars*
> 
> Can you fit Noctua NH-D15 in Windowed Nano S without changing anything?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> 1. Will the Corsair RM750 fit in this case?
> 
> You might be able to get it in there, but it'd cover the through-hole for you to be able to route your power cables cleanly. If at all possible it'd be best to go with a PSU 160mm or shorter. If you're still shopping, the Integra M 750W is a great alternative at just 140mm in length: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/power-supplies/integra-m/integra-m-750w
> 
> 2. Will the Noctua NH-D15 fit? (windowed version)
> 
> Officially the Noctua NH-D15 with its 165mm height does exceed the 160mm maximum specified for the Nano S, but a number of users have reported that it does still fit:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/4a8lvo/are_the_fractal_design_define_nano_s_and_the/%5B/URL
> 
> Good luck


----------



## Dimensive

Newegg has some good deals on Fractal Design cases right now: http://tinyurl.com/fractalsale


----------



## D13mass

Hi all!
My new build 3.0 in Fractal Define R4 (not so bad for water cooling, but I dislike this case - not enough spaces, bad cable management )
Radiator is external Mo-Ra3 9*140


----------



## killeraxemannic

Well guys I have 3 Phanteks PH-F140SP fans coming today to replace the stock GP14 fans in my R5. I have thoroughly tested my temps with my current fans so I will let you guys know how it goes. The stock Fractal fans sort of make a ticking noise at low speed so that's why I am replacing them. On low on the R5 fan controller the Phanteks move more air and are technically louder than the stock fractal fans but they make air noises not a tick like the stock fans which is less noticeable than the tick even though it's technically louder. I am hoping that upgrading to the Phanteks will drop my load GPU tems a few degrees.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Got all of my Phanteks fans to replace the stock R5's and did some testing

My testing was OCCT small data set running on the CPU and Unigine Valley at max settings running on the GPU. The values that you are seeing are after 15 min of testing. They are the max values from hardware monitor. My PC room stays at a constant 70F

the temps and the RPM's are the GPU temp and GPU fan speed. That's really all I cared about in replacing the fans as the GPU fan was the loudest thing in the case under load. I first got one Phantek fan and did testing then I got 2 more. Here you can see results from adding one front intake fan along with the stock fans, as well as replacing all of the stock fans. In the results below ALL of the testing was done with the front 2 intake and rear exhaust. Top is top position on front and bottom is bottom position on front. All of my moduvent panels are closed.

Stock configuration no front bottom fan front closed controller low 72C 1761 rpm
Stock configuration no front bottom fan front closed controller med 70C 1761 rpm
Stock configuration no front bottom fan front closed controller high 67 1710 rpm

Phanteks PH-F140SP bottom stock top front closed controller Low 68C 1719 rpm
Phanteks PH-F140SP bottom stock top front closed controller med 69C 1727 rpm
Phanteks PH-F140SP bottom stock top front closed controller High 67C 1686 rpm

Phanteks PH-F140SP top stock bottom front closed controller low 68C 1722 rpm
Phanteks PH-F140SP top stock bottom front closed controller med 67C 1725 rpm

3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear, front closed controller Low 67C 1705 rpm
3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear front closed controller Med 64C 1637 rpm
3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear front closed controller High 61C 1598 rpm

Here's the biggest things I see to take note

Using 3 Phanteks PH-F140SP on the R5 2 front intake one rear exhaust results in better cooling on low than the 2 stock R5 fans on high

If you are adding only one fan to the front of the R5 and keeping the 2 stock fans it's better to put the 3rd fan with more airflow in the top position on front

Just adding one fan to the R5 seems to result in a 4C drop across the board.

Although replacing all 3 fans only shows marginal benefits over adding one fan to the 2 stock on low it has a profound impact on high and med.

EDIT:

Did one more test

Bottom intake fan + 2 front intake, one rear exhaust is bad news bears. Guessing it disrupts the flow of air from the front bottom intake fan through to the rear of the case and just ends up blowing the hot air that the GPU exhausts up instead of it getting pushed out the back.

3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear, 1 stock GP14 bottom intake fan, front closed controller low 67C 1727 rpm
3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear, 1 stock GP14 bottom intake fan, front closed controller med 67c 1683 rpm
3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear, 1 stock GP14 bottom intake fan, front closed controller high 64c 1637 rpm


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Got all of my Phanteks fans to replace the stock R5's and did some testing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My testing was OCCT small data set running on the CPU and Unigine Valley at max settings running on the GPU. The values that you are seeing are after 15 min of testing. They are the max values from hardware monitor. My PC room stays at a constant 70F
> 
> the temps and the RPM's are the GPU temp and GPU fan speed. That's really all I cared about in replacing the fans as the GPU fan was the loudest thing in the case under load. I first got one Phantek fan and did testing then I got 2 more. Here you can see results from adding one front intake fan along with the stock fans, as well as replacing all of the stock fans. In the results below ALL of the testing was done with the front 2 intake and rear exhaust. Top is top position on front and bottom is bottom position on front. All of my moduvent panels are closed.
> 
> Stock configuration no front bottom fan front closed controller low 72C 1761 rpm
> Stock configuration no front bottom fan front closed controller med 70C 1761 rpm
> Stock configuration no front bottom fan front closed controller high 67 1710 rpm
> 
> Phanteks PH-F140SP bottom stock top front closed controller Low 68C 1719 rpm
> Phanteks PH-F140SP bottom stock top front closed controller med 69C 1727 rpm
> Phanteks PH-F140SP bottom stock top front closed controller High 67C 1686 rpm
> 
> Phanteks PH-F140SP top stock bottom front closed controller low 68C 1722 rpm
> Phanteks PH-F140SP top stock bottom front closed controller med 67C 1725 rpm
> 
> 3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear, front closed controller Low 67C 1705 rpm
> 3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear front closed controller Med 64C 1637 rpm
> 3 Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2 front 1 rear front closed controller High 61C 1598 rpm


Thanks !


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Well guys I have 3 Phanteks PH-F140SP fans coming today to replace the stock GP14 fans in my R5. I have thoroughly tested my temps with my current fans so I will let you guys know how it goes. *The stock Fractal fans sort of make a ticking noise at low speed so that's why I am replacing them.* On low on the R5 fan controller the Phanteks move more air and are technically louder than the stock fractal fans but they make air noises not a tick like the stock fans which is less noticeable than the tick even though it's technically louder. I am hoping that upgrading to the Phanteks will drop my load GPU tems a few degrees.


Interesting comment above on the clicking at low speeds. I am having a similar issue on two new systems I am assembling.

R5 Case , GP14 fans, Asus Maximus VIII Hero, fans connected to the MoBo were clicking at idle.

I was short on time so I just connected them to the chassis harness.

This clicking does not happen on my gigabyte Z97X gaming 5 with the same fans., and that board can spin the GP14 fans down very slow using speedfan without clicking.
The gigabyte Z97X headers are voltage controlled.

So I have not had much time to explore this. I'm wondering if the BIOS thinks they are PWM fans even though they are 3 pin, or if it is something else.

I have yet to move a fan that does not click from my system to the new system to test it, however four new fans in two systems were all clicking when connected to the Mobo. I am building two, nearly identical systems and both are doing the same thing.

I really want to solve the clicking fan issue as I was not planning on new fans for these builds.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Interesting comment above on the clicking at low speeds. I am having a similar issue on two new systems I am assembling.
> 
> R5 Case , GP14 fans, Asus Maximus VIII Hero, fans connected to the MoBo were clicking at idle.
> 
> I was short on time so I just connected them to the chassis harness.
> 
> This clicking does not happen on my gigabyte Z97X gaming 5 with the same fans., and that board can spin the GP14 fans down very slow using speedfan without clicking.
> The gigabyte Z97X headers are voltage controlled.
> 
> So I have not had much time to explore this. I'm wondering if the BIOS thinks they are PWM fans even though they are 3 pin, or if it is something else.
> 
> I have yet to move a fan that does not click from my system to the new system to test it, however four new fans in two systems were all clicking when connected to the Mobo. I am building two, nearly identical systems and both are doing the same thing.
> 
> I really want to solve the clicking fan issue as I was not planning on new fans for these builds.


I was running them on the R5 fan controller and they click on low so that would be at 5v. I would guess at more or less voltage they don't click. Just a characteristic of that fan. Both of mine do it when on low on the stock fan controller.


----------



## smithydan

Define R5 White & Gold Limited Edition


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> I was running them on the R5 fan controller and they click on low so that would be at 5v. I would guess at more or less voltage they don't click. Just a characteristic of that fan. Both of mine do it when on low on the stock fan controller.


Hmmmm.

The GP14s in either of the two new systems only click when powered from the MoBo headers.

They don't click when connected to the R5 case fan controller on any of the three speeds.

I'll need to experiment on these, but need to get the assembly finished first.


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Hmmmm.
> 
> The GP14s in either of the two new systems only click when powered from the MoBo headers.
> 
> They don't click when connected to the R5 case fan controller on any of the three speeds.
> 
> I'll need to experiment on these, but need to get the assembly finished first.


Interesting. I just tested both of mine. They click equally when attached to a mobo fan header at low RPM and the R5 fan controller on low. Seems like they start clicking once you get low enough. On my motherboard fan header it seems that they click from about 650 RPM down to shut off.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Interesting. I just tested both of mine. They click equally when attached to a mobo fan header at low RPM and the R5 fan controller on low. Seems like they start clicking once you get low enough. On my motherboard fan header it seems that they click from about 650 RPM down to shut off.


Thanks for that. I'll test more tonight and report back.

The fans in my system are about 13 months old. I have never heard them click at any speed.

The two new R5s were received about 3 weeks ago. Not sure if something changed on the fans.

Is there such a thing as fan break-in time?


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Thanks for that. I'll test more tonight and report back.
> 
> The fans in my system are about 13 months old. I have never heard them click at any speed.
> 
> The two new R5s were received about 3 weeks ago. Not sure if something changed on the fans.
> 
> Is there such a thing as fan break-in time?


That is a good question and I have always wondered the same thing. It makes sense that a fan bearing would wear in after a few hundred hours or so just like any mechanical device. I did read one review on the cooler I just bought (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 3) Stating that the cooler got quieter with about 100 hours of "Burn in". I have no data regarding this matter though so it's just speculation. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject that has done some testing can chime in.


----------



## SavageBrat

I have an older Node 804.. air cooled will get the better pics tomarrow...yes it's a Bequiet Dark Rock pro 3 in it..


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> That is a good question and I have always wondered the same thing. It makes sense that a fan bearing would wear in after a few hundred hours or so just like any mechanical device. I did read one review on the cooler I just bought (BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 3) Stating that the cooler got quieter with about 100 hours of "Burn in". I have no data regarding this matter though so it's just speculation. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the subject that has done some testing can chime in.


I posted a question on the FANS thread.


----------



## snow99dohc

Transplant from my mini to a mini c is complete. Few more changes on the way yet.


----------



## newbie222

I'm so glad I got rid of my Fractal case, obviously swallowed the hit of losing money. Best case for me is aerocool PGS-Q200. Fractal (MIdi ARC R2) had the dust filter for the power supply designed to be removed from the back???***. Large and bulky but when someone rides the wave called public opinion on the forums, that's what happens.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newbie222*
> 
> I'm so glad I got rid of my Fractal case, obviously swallowed the hit of losing money. Best case for me is aerocool PGS-Q200. Fractal (MIdi ARC R2) had the dust filter for the power supply designed to be removed from the back???***. Large and bulky but when someone rides the wave called public opinion on the forums, that's what happens.


Go away troll. This a fractal design thread. We happen to like the case, you don't.

Yeah I'm feeding the trolls but can't help myself.

Aerocool... Haha... Enjoy


----------



## newbie222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Go away troll. This a fractal design thread. We happen to like the case, you don't.
> 
> Yeah I'm feeding the trolls but can't help myself.
> 
> Aerocool... Haha... Enjoy


I'm already away if that will make you feel better, but the issues of the case I've quoted above are still there. Will post pictures when I'm in the mood to do so. Hope you'll eat your hat or something for your words above once you see the photos.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Interesting comment above on the clicking at low speeds. I am having a similar issue on two new systems I am assembling.
> 
> R5 Case , GP14 fans, Asus Maximus VIII Hero, fans connected to the MoBo were clicking at idle.
> 
> I was short on time so I just connected them to the chassis harness.
> 
> This clicking does not happen on my gigabyte Z97X gaming 5 with the same fans., and that board can spin the GP14 fans down very slow using speedfan without clicking.
> The gigabyte Z97X headers are voltage controlled.
> 
> So I have not had much time to explore this. I'm wondering if the BIOS thinks they are PWM fans even though they are 3 pin, or if it is something else.
> 
> I have yet to move a fan that does not click from my system to the new system to test it, however four new fans in two systems were all clicking when connected to the Mobo. I am building two, nearly identical systems and both are doing the same thing.
> 
> I really want to solve the clicking fan issue as I was not planning on new fans for these builds.


*1/1/2017 Update: the Fractal GP14 fans are no longer clicking.*









I'd love to share with everyone the brilliant solution I found to make the clicking go away, but I have no idea which change made the difference.

I updated BIOS on the MOBO, installed fan control software, added more fans, removed and re-mounted all of them and TBH, forgot entirely about the clicking until I started tuning for temps and remembered these were clicking.

Perhaps it was the BIOS update, because I think it was after that I started to OC and wanted the fans to be under system control.

Whatever it was, I'm happy.


----------



## opt33

Just finished switching from larger Lian Li A71f..to Fractal design 5... loving this case...much quieter, cant even tell computer is on unless I see lights, finished build is 10lbs lighter, and despite the small size it was more accessible for watercooling and upgrading mobo/cpu in future will be a breeze. Even with OC Titan XP and OC 6900k thermal efficiency is so much better, no reason for me to have large cases/multiple rads anymore since I dont do sli/multi gpus. Still waiting on smaller fan controller and silent wings 2 fans.


----------



## ErrorFile

I'm going back to Fractal from Jonsbo W2. Define Mini C this time, hopefully it's better quality than the (awful) Define R4 I had before the W2. Only thing I'm a bit worried about is my PSU's length (180mm), but one guy was kind enough to measure his Mini C with a 180mm PSU - it will fit, but the HDD-cage he recommended to be taken off.


----------



## Mack42

Define C and Mini C are interesting cases, but with the PSU shroud blocking air intake from the bottom, one gets dependent on feeding fair to graphics card via the front fans only. In reality, I guess this is not a problem?


----------



## TeslaHUN

If anyone is curious i tested , its easy to mount 20cm fan on the top on Define S case (also define R5 i guess ), i tried 3fan ; all fit (Cooler Master Megaflow 20cm / NZXT 20cm / Enermax 18cm)


----------



## equilni

Does anyone have any examples of setups with the radiator on the floor of the Nano S? I am playing with a WC idea for a GPU only loop

Also does or did Fractal Design offer a PSU shroud for the Nano S or are they all custom made?


----------



## Mack42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *equilni*
> 
> Does anyone have any examples of setups with the radiator on the floor of the Nano S? I am playing with a WC idea for a GPU only loop
> 
> Also does or did Fractal Design offer a PSU shroud for the Nano S or are they all custom made?


You can fit a 120mm radiator at the bottom of the case, but not much else. There is no mounting holes for a 140mm, even if it could fit. There is no PSU shroud offered for the Nano S.


----------



## Alover

Hello, i´m thinking about getting a new fractal case.
I´m between the define c and the define s and i can´t decide.
I´m looking for a silent case, and the define s seem a little better in that case.
Am i right?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Hello, i´m thinking about getting a new fractal case.
> I´m between the define c and the define s and i can´t decide.
> I´m looking for a silent case, and the define s seem a little better in that case.
> Am i right?


Define C is the better choice.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Define C is the better choice.


Why?
I mean, isn´t the define s thicker and with better fans?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Why?
> I mean, isn´t the define s thicker and with better fans?


Both use the same fans models.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Both use the same fans models.


define c uses 120mm while the define s has 140mm fans D:


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> define c uses 120mm while the define s has 140mm fans D:


Define C also supports 140mm fans. Try not to pay too much attention on what fans the case comes with.


----------



## smithydan

Guys do you think those four holes on the ridges(where the panel sits and slides) hint to a possible tempered glass? These four holes are only on the new 'C' series and not on the Nano S which first implement this structural design.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Define C also supports 140mm fans. Try not to pay too much attention on what fans the case comes with.


So both are basically low quality fans xd.

But could you tell me what makes the define c "better"
The think i like about the define s is that everybody says is a very solid and thick case.
So i was wondering if the define c is as good.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Hello, i´m thinking about getting a new fractal case.
> I´m between the define c and the define s and i can´t decide.
> I´m looking for a silent case, and the define s seem a little better in that case.
> Am i right?


What is the rest of your build?

What are the noisemakers that you plan to put inside of it?


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> What is the rest of your build?
> 
> What are the noisemakers that you plan to put inside of it?


The cpu cooler (cryorig h5) and the gpu, no hdd.
atx motherboard.
Nothing else D:


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Fans are just basic and not low quality.
Both S and C has it strong and weak points.

Define C has the PSU shroud, which hides all wires. Front intake is closer to GPU/CPU which gives more direct airflow.
Define S is slightly longer to make room for the side mounted drives. While C is below.
Define C includes dust filter for top and sound dampening in front. Define S does not.

Overall I would take the Define C if air cooling is main goal.
That would be my pick if I had a choice.


----------



## ebduncan

update to my rig. Need a red led for the res, and some sleeved cables but that's about it.

Fractal Design Arc Midi.


----------



## TheNetrum

I tried searching and looked through the last 15 pages.
Sorry if this has been posted before.

I am getting my Define C tomorrow.
And i want to go back to water-cooling again.
I used to have a Swiftech H240-X but the pump died and i went back to air cooling.

So my question is, has anyone tried to fit a EK Predator 360 in the Define C case?


----------



## Lodbroke

Upgraded our old HTPC in a FD Node 605 case, for some gaming too.
It meant adding an AMD/Sapphire RX 480 with our A10-5700 cpu and FM2A85x-mitx motherboard and going from 4GB 1366MHz to 8GB 1600MHz RAM.

Just the graphic card was enough to make Node 605 from an roomy and easy case, to rather cramped with lots of dead space...
The wiring is "managed" so nothing hits the fan(s) and then the lid is on (for now).

Keeping the computer on a table in the living room for now but it is supposed to sit in the TV-bench. with HDMI and USB cords to the keyboard, mouse and screen (maybe also the small speakers seen on the pics) across the living room.


Using the stereo in the TV-bench while the TV is on...


Not so pretty and the reason why the Node 605 Game comp will be hidden in the TV-bench. The 2 80mm fans are one Noctua pwm and a FD 3-pins none is louder than the other, even if the Noctua cost more.
Feeling like next upgrade will be done with some white and silver spray cans...
The oldest part in this setup is the power cord that was bought sometime 2000 for a compaq Cyrix MediaGX 200MHz comp


----------



## Xaltar

Please excuse the horrible pic, I just can't seem to get a decent shot.... The flash washes out the lighting and without it there is too much noise...



Fractal Design Define S
Core i5 7600K @5ghz stable
ASRock Z270 Gaming K6
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16gb DDR4 3600 with Airflow
Gigabyte GTX 960 G1 Gaming 2gb
Corsair H105
OCZ Fatal1ty 1000w
PNY Optima 240gb

The GPU is installed in the x8 slot because I like the aesthetics better this way and well, this piece of junk is barely bottlenecked at x1 so it's not like I lose performance









I love this case, so much room inside and so easy to work with which is important for me as I swap parts in and out all the time









So, can I join the club?


----------



## JackCY

FD D S - hybrid between R4 and R5, bottom filter exit at the back = useless, etc.
FD D nS - bottom filter exit at front
FD D C - bottom filter exit at front
FD D mC - bottom filter exit at front

I would not touch the D S, at least get an R5 or C if you want a big case. Sure you can mod the filters etc. and should mod any case anyway for better airflow but if you don't wanna go dremel mode on the case get the case that fits your needs the best.


----------



## Mack42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> FD D S - hybrid between R4 and R5, bottom filter exit at the back = useless, etc.
> FD D nS - bottom filter exit at front
> FD D C - bottom filter exit at front
> FD D mC - bottom filter exit at front
> 
> I would not touch the D S, at least get an R5 or C if you want a big case. Sure you can mod the filters etc. and should mod any case anyway for better airflow but if you don't wanna go dremel mode on the case get the case that fits your needs the best.


Define S has flimsy bottom steel, as well. Not ideal for a quality feeling. Uses old school side panel locking mechanism, as well.


----------



## austinmrs

I have a Fractal Define S

And i have an AIO, H110i GT. But i cant get it to fit on the top of the case... Is that normal? It is always hitting something near the motherboard shield.

I have maximus viii hero, maybe i have to remove the plastic shroud of the board?

Help needed please.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I have a Fractal Define S
> 
> And i have an AIO, H110i GT. But i cant get it to fit on the top of the case... Is that normal? It is always hitting something near the motherboard shield.
> 
> I have maximus viii hero, maybe i have to remove the plastic shroud of the board?
> 
> Help needed please.


Your mobo has an issue to fit a 280 rad. 240 rad will fit on top.
Then only option is to mount it in front.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Your mobo has an issue to fit a 280 rad. 240 rad will fit on top.
> Then only option is to mount it in front.


How does this guy managed to mount it on top?

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/hHkTwP

Same case/board


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNetrum*
> 
> I tried searching and looked through the last 15 pages.
> Sorry if this has been posted before.
> 
> I am getting my Define C tomorrow.
> And i want to go back to water-cooling again.
> I used to have a Swiftech H240-X but the pump died and i went back to air cooling.
> 
> So my question is, has anyone tried to fit a EK Predator 360 in the Define C case?


The define C holds 3x140mm fans in the front which equates to 420mm height, the Predator 360 is 415mm so it should fit.

The only problem might be graphics card length.


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> The define C holds 3x140mm fans in the front which equates to 420mm height, the Predator 360 is 415mm so it should fit.
> 
> The only problem might be graphics card length.


Define C has spot for only 2x140mm and 3x120mm
Predator 360 doubt it will even fit in the front, due to the pump being on the rad itself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> How does this guy managed to mount it on top?
> 
> https://pcpartpicker.com/b/hHkTwP
> Same case/board


How and where did you mount the H110?


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> Define C has spot for only 2x140mm and 3x120mm
> Predator 360 doubt it will even fit in the front, due to the pump being on the rad itself.
> How and where did you mount the H110?


Its on the front.

But i would like to move it to the top.

SO i have 3x 140mm intake, 1 back exhasut and the radiator on top with exhaust..

I've tried but i cant get it to fit in the top :/


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I have a Fractal Define S
> 
> And i have an AIO, H110i GT. But i cant get it to fit on the top of the case... Is that normal? It is always hitting something near the motherboard shield.
> 
> I have maximus viii hero, maybe i have to remove the plastic shroud of the board?
> 
> Help needed please.


It should fit in the top without much of an issue since radiator + fan thickness is only 52mm... do you have tall RAM or tall VRM heatsinks by chance?


----------



## TheNetrum

I am going with the Predator 280 in front then.
Should be enough.

I am very happy with the case.
It's quite compact for a ATX case.
Easy to build in and good cable management


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNetrum*
> 
> I am going with the Predator 280 in front then.
> Should be enough.
> 
> I am very happy with the case.
> It's quite compact for a ATX case.
> Easy to build in and good cable management


Do no buy the Predator until EK has fully resolved the leaking issue. They are down to revision 1.1D and no luck yet. Save yourself and wait.


----------



## TheNetrum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Do no buy the Predator until EK has fully resolved the leaking issue. They are down to revision 1.1D and no luck yet. Save yourself and wait.


Thank you for the warning. I will buy other things for my computer while i wait


----------



## ErrorFile

Got the Mini C yesterday. It's quite a lot nicer than my previous Define R4 ever was - it seems like Fractal stepped up with the build quality and the case doesn't make all those annoying resonating sounds. Feels a bit cheap to hand, compared to my previous Cooltek W2. Having a long PSU and a HDD doesn't really fit together with this case, had to create my own mounting for the HDD. Well, I'm planning to get rid of it and replace it with a big SSD.

Build process was so damn easy, even though I had some problems with getting the front panel back on. No pictures at the moment, I'll take them the next time when I open the case. Wife really likes how this case looks like and the sound-proofing helped to make my PC so damn quiet (all fans @ ~400/rpm). It's hardly possible to hear if it's on at night time, when there aren't other things generating noise.


----------



## Dan-H

S on sale at newegg. 69.99 with $10 MIR bringing it to 59.99 plus tax where taxed. free (slow) eggsaver shipping.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352055&Tpk=N82E16811352055


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> S on sale at newegg. 69.99 with $10 MIR bringing it to 59.99 plus tax where taxed. free (slow) eggsaver shipping.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352055&Tpk=N82E16811352055


Thanks for sharing. Just a heads up, this is the lowest it's been since Black Friday 2015 and this deal's only going on 'til tomorrow, so if anyone's thinking about pulling the trigger you better go for it 'cause you're probably not gonna see another deal like this for a while.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErrorFile*
> 
> Got the Mini C yesterday. It's quite a lot nicer than my previous Define R4 ever was - it seems like Fractal stepped up with the build quality and the case doesn't make all those annoying resonating sounds. Feels a bit cheap to hand, compared to my previous Cooltek W2. Having a long PSU and a HDD doesn't really fit together with this case, had to create my own mounting for the HDD. Well, I'm planning to get rid of it and replace it with a big SSD.
> 
> Build process was so damn easy, even though I had some problems with getting the front panel back on. No pictures at the moment, I'll take them the next time when I open the case. Wife really likes how this case looks like and the sound-proofing helped to make my PC so damn quiet (all fans @ ~400/rpm). It's hardly possible to hear if it's on at night time, when there aren't other things generating noise.


I did some building in the Define Mini C myself recently I've been talking a lot with the rest of the team about the PSU and HDD configs. I've found it's a lot more versatile than our tech writers gave it credit for in the official specs, but I also think there's a lot more detail we could provide on limitations in various configurations.

These are just my unofficial observations after some experimentation with one of the cases here at the office, but here's what I'd estimate for the max PSU length in the most common configurations:

HDD cage removed, no HDD: 215mm (PSUs over 175mm will partially overlap the forward vent, which is ever so slightly higher than the rubber pads under the PSU)
HDD cage removed, HDD mounted to case floor: 175mm (assuming connections on PSU clear the HDD, ~150mm if they don't)
HDD cage in forwardmost position: 210mm + 25mm for cables (again, some overlap with the forward vent on PSUs over 175mm)
HDD cage in rearmost position: 145mm + 25mm for cables
Also, since I have a penchant for ignoring limitations by just going around them, I was delighted to find that the vent pattern on the case floor towards the very front just happens to line up with the HDD screw holes, making handy "alternate" mount that gives you about 30 mm more breathing room between the drive and PSU. I was able to mount the bulkiest thousand watt 180 mm PSU I could find with plenty of room to spare, though if I were doing this on my own build I would be inclined to find some rubber washers to go on both sides of the vent (either that or halve the included grommets with an exacto knife) so there's no risk of screws passing drive vibrations to the case.





Again, these are all just Fischer hacks and are in no way official or approved by my cohorts with engineering degrees.


----------



## ErrorFile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I did some building in the Define Mini C myself recently I've been talking a lot with the rest of the team about the PSU and HDD configs. I've found it's a lot more versatile than our tech writers gave it credit for in the official specs, but I also think there's a lot more detail we could provide on limitations in various configurations.
> 
> These are just my unofficial observations after some experimentation with one of the cases here at the office, but here's what I'd estimate for the max PSU length in the most common configurations:
> 
> HDD cage removed, no HDD: 215mm (PSUs over 175mm will partially overlap the forward vent, which is ever so slightly higher than the rubber pads under the PSU)
> HDD cage removed, HDD mounted to case floor: 175mm (assuming connections on PSU clear the HDD, ~150mm if they don't)
> HDD cage in forwardmost position: 210mm + 25mm for cables (again, some overlap with the forward vent on PSUs over 175mm)
> HDD cage in rearmost position: 145mm + 25mm for cables
> Also, since I have a penchant for ignoring limitations by just going around them, I was delighted to find that the vent pattern on the case floor towards the very front just happens to line up with the HDD screw holes, making handy "alternate" mount that gives you about 30 mm more breathing room between the drive and PSU. I was able to mount the bulkiest thousand watt 180 mm PSU I could find with plenty of room to spare, though if I were doing this on my own build I would be inclined to find some rubber washers to go on both sides of the vent (either that or halve the included grommets with an exacto knife) so there's no risk of screws passing drive vibrations to the case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, these are all just Fischer hacks and are in no way official or approved by my cohorts with engineering degrees.


Thanks.







Yeah, that's pretty much the same solution I came up for the HDD. Found some rubber washer-leftovers from Noiseblocker-fans packages and also removed the 4 pieces from one of the Mini C's HDD-trays. Seems to work flawlessly, no vibration passed to the case as I am a bit oversensitive with my hearing - well, still can't hear if the HDD is on or not. With the Cooltek W2, I always knew when the HDD was spinning.


----------



## snow99dohc

Took the side panel i had made for my Mini and cut it down for my new Mini C today.



and the rest of the bulid


http://imgur.com/4GdWh


----------



## daywalk3r314

hi,

i'm looking to buy a Define S and i have full watercooling system going in - 360mm rad going on top and vent out as exhaust.
i see that their is no Magnetic Fan Filter to the top. as i see it doesnt need it, becuase of the exhaust flowing the dust out, but their could be a gap between the radiator and case anyways so the dust will come in anyways.

i was wondering if someone did a small modification or just bought a DEMCiflex Triple Magnetic Fan Filter that would fit?


----------



## Sp33d Junki3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> hi,
> 
> i'm looking to buy a Define S and i have full watercooling system going in - 360mm rad going on top and vent out as exhaust.
> i see that their is no Magnetic Fan Filter to the top. as i see it doesnt need it, becuase of the exhaust flowing the dust out, but their could be a gap between the radiator and case anyways so the dust will come in anyways.
> 
> i was wondering if someone did a small modification or just bought a DEMCiflex Triple Magnetic Fan Filter that would fit?


If it set to exhaust all you need to do is block any opening not covered by the rad. That way no exhaust air goes back into case.
As for filter, not recommended as you dont want to block more than what you want to exhaust out.

Any opening outside rad that is not covered. Seal it off to prevent air going back in.


----------



## brazilianloser

Just here waiting on an upgraded version of the actual Define S with one of those fancy basements and maybe even more features to help out with water cooling.


----------



## daywalk3r314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp33d Junki3*
> 
> If it set to exhaust all you need to do is block any opening not covered by the rad. That way no exhaust air goes back into case.
> As for filter, not recommended as you dont want to block more than what you want to exhaust out.
> 
> Any opening outside rad that is not covered. Seal it off to prevent air going back in.


then i to do some tape or come up with something thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> Just here waiting on an upgraded version of the actual Define S with one of those fancy basements and maybe even more features to help out with water cooling.


Is it confirmed a upgraded version coming out?


----------



## philologos

Hi all,

I'm trying to do my second ever computer build in a Define C. I'm stuck trying to screw on the motherboard standoffs; there is no threading on the holes, just bare steel. I managed to get a couple on, but some just will not screw in. I realize there is a standoff tool, and I have trying using my fingers to thread as well as the tool and a Philips head. Do others struggle with this? I thought this case would make everything painless.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> Is it confirmed a upgraded version coming out?


Not that I know man... Just here hoping. Been looking around for a new case to redo my build and would gladly buy one if they did update the case.


----------



## philologos

Well, I got all the standoffs except the one on the upper left. That one will not stick for anything. I'm so MAD right now. I know the others will probably support the motherboard well enough, but it's bothering me. Why make them like this?


----------



## TheNetrum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philologos*
> 
> Well, I got all the standoffs except the one on the upper left. That one will not stick for anything. I'm so MAD right now. I know the others will probably support the motherboard well enough, but it's bothering me. Why make them like this?


I did not have any problems with my Define C.


----------



## philologos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNetrum*
> 
> I did not have any problems with my Define C.


Yeah, most people really seem to like building in them. I don't want to bad mouth Fractal Design over this problem; just wish the standoffs had somewhat longer threads.

Anyways, just gave up and installed into the Define C minus the one standoff. I'll get over it.


----------



## ErrorFile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philologos*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm trying to do my second ever computer build in a Define C. I'm stuck trying to screw on the motherboard standoffs; there is no threading on the holes, just bare steel. I managed to get a couple on, but some just will not screw in. I realize there is a standoff tool, and I have trying using my fingers to thread as well as the tool and a Philips head. Do others struggle with this? I thought this case would make everything painless.


I didn't have problems with using the tool to install the standoffs, but it would've been nice to see them pre-installed.


----------



## philologos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ErrorFile*
> 
> I didn't have problems with using the tool to install the standoffs, but it would've been nice to see them pre-installed.


I was thinking the same, but then remembered the case needs to support MiniITX, microATX.


----------



## JackCY

Maybe you have a defective case that doesn't have threads in the metal plate where you screw the standoffs into?
I don't remember having any issues with R4, tool was supplied to screw them in, doable even with a hand and no key.


----------



## fleetfeather

@Fractal Design, are there any plans to release white LED kits so that users can move away from the blue LED the accompanies a large range of FD cases?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> @Fractal Design, are there any plans to release white LED kits so that users can move away from the blue LED the accompanies a large range of FD cases?


You mean the power switch backlight? It's glued if I remember right, and the transparent plastic nearly impossible to remove on R4, I didn't remove mine, just put in two LEDs and glue them where you want to have power+hdd LEDs. Set it as my avatar yesterday but I have my LEDs disabled in UEFI so they only blink on power on and that's all otherwise constantly off.

Some cases have red, I think the white R4 etc. have red instead of blue.


----------



## r9miner

We'll see what Fractal says but I don't they would change it unless they go full RGB. The blue led is a staple on all their cases. Only the white case came with red LEDs and the Fractal guy said on the OCN podcast the white cases will probably not be produced again (not enough demand).

That being said if you can solder its not that difficult to swap the LEDs, I have my Define S torn down right now and gonna use red. Standard 3mm round LED for HDD and 2x5x7mm square LED for power. They were held in with hot glue or whatever so you just pick them out carefully. LEDs are available on Amazon or eBay, I had to buy 25 of each but they were cheap anyway. Heres a pic:


----------



## Exilon

Question regarding the Define S:

What are the chances of fitting a thicker 280mm radiator on the top, when using low profile memory? Or is it hopeless even with ~30mm memory sticks because the top mount isn't shifted enough? Can someone take a photo from the top down aligned with the 140mm holes so I can get a grasp of the clearances?

Edit: Finally found a post with 420mm clearance information... apparently it hits everything if it were any thicker than 55mm so a 90mm x 280mm is out


----------



## JackCY

Can always stick it outside.


----------



## TheTou

Does someone know the maximum 2,5" drive height on the Core 500 ? Couldn't find anything on this so far, thanks!


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philologos*
> 
> Yeah, most people really seem to like building in them. I don't want to bad mouth Fractal Design over this problem; just wish the standoffs had somewhat longer threads.
> 
> Anyways, just gave up and installed into the Define C minus the one standoff. I'll get over it.


Sorry to hear you had to go through such an endeavor to get your board installed. It's definitely not supposed to be that way. I'll make sure QA is notified so they can check into it on their end.

It sounds like you've already got your build more or less complete, but if you're interested in getting that last post in for a proper install, one trick you might try is taking a thumbscrew from one of the expansion slot covers and using that with a screwdriver instead of the post+tool combo to manually rethread the hole.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> @Fractal Design, are there any plans to release white LED kits so that users can move away from the blue LED the accompanies a large range of FD cases?


Not that I'm aware of. I have seen plenty of people swap out the LED themselves when personalizing their build though, and from what I gather it's one of the simpler things you can do to mod your case.


----------



## Ha-Nocri

Can EK predator 240/280 fit in Define Mini C?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheTou*
> 
> Does someone know the maximum 2,5" drive height on the Core 500 ? Couldn't find anything on this so far, thanks!


I measured just over 10 mm clearance between the mounting plate and side panel, so anything taller than the typical 9 mm is probably not going to fit. If you're planning on installing a thicker SSD such as the Intel 750, you'll most likely need to use one of the two HDD/SSD bays rather than the dedicated SSD mount.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ha-Nocri*
> 
> Can EK predator 240/280 fit in Define Mini C?


Yes, in the front. The Define Mini C supports 140/280 mm rads up to 144 mm in width and the EK predator 280 is 142 mm according to EK's site.


----------



## Ha-Nocri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Yes, in the front. The Define Mini C supports 140/280 mm rads up to 144 mm in width and the EK predator 280 is 142 mm according to EK's site.


It can't fit the top? Not enough width?


----------



## DyndaS

Just ordered mine Define C. Time for some little project in it.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ha-Nocri*
> 
> It can't fit the top? Not enough width?


The top mount is 120/240 mm only. A 280 mm rad would most likely interfere with the motherboard.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> The top mount is 120/240 mm only. A 280 mm rad would most likely interfere with the motherboard.


Hey I purchased a core 500, picking it up on saturday.

Is there a way to have a fan above the optical drive or is there no room?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Hey I purchased a core 500, picking it up on saturday.
> 
> Is there a way to have a fan above the optical drive or is there no room?


You'd have about 18 mm of space between the ODD and top panel, and there are slim profile case fans out there as thin as 14 mm that could still fit but it would be so close to the drive that I don't think the air would really have anywhere to go.

If your goal is to maximize airflow, I think the best solution would be to upgrade the two included fans rather than attempting to add a third. They're a bit more of an investment, but swapping in a pair of Venturi HF14 fans should more than double the airflow of the default configuration. If things are particularly dense inside your finished build, you might alternatively consider the HP14. The HP versions are built primarily with watercooling in mind, but the higher static pressure does give them a big advantage when it comes to moving air through obstructions.


----------



## frostbite

Thank you, I will check it out once I get back from collecting it


----------



## guilly

Has anyone replaced the plexi glass on the Define S ? I hate how it scratches so easily, I'd love to do a tempered glass mod....


----------



## Kenjiro

Just replaced mine today









http://www.overclock.net/t/1618792/build-log-monochrome-blue/10


----------



## guilly

Awesome, looks really good. Good idea with the magnets... I attempted to replace my old corsair 500R with a piece of acrylic but I didn't like how it turned out so I'm hesitant on trying it again with the Define S. But with the magnets it looks much cleaner then trying to glue it on....


----------



## Kenjiro

Thanks







Don't use too much glue as it can show up around the magnets as you can see in my photos and on your initial positioning of the magnets keep them away from the ridge so they lay flat as they tend to lean towards the ridge when placed on foam with them being so strong. Also any excess glue won't be visible from the outside once you're all done


----------



## equilni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> You can fit a 120mm radiator at the bottom of the case, but not much else. There is no mounting holes for a 140mm, even if it could fit. There is no PSU shroud offered for the Nano S.


Thanks. Then I'll plan on a 240 in the front if I continue with water

For the PSU Shroud, it was easy to do, but the GPU heatsink is choking due to the orientation... EDIT Fixed the fan curve for better temps....


----------



## Dnic41

Here is the build I just completed last week with a White Define R5. This has been the nicest case I have ever worked with. Both of my Hard drive cages have been removed as I use only SSD's. Build info: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Rfr6Mp


----------



## assface

I bought a Define C mini and I'd like to leave the PSU fan facing up. Considering that my GPU has 3 fans pulling in air, will the PSU fan (not hybrid) affect the GPU's cooling performance since its competing for the same air? Id like to avoid having the PSU fan facing down because of noise and dust, but I dont want to potentially increase heat to an OC'd 1080.


----------



## lostsupper

The Define C Mini has a PSU shroud. It needs to be installed pulling air from the open floor of the case.


----------



## assface

But the PSU shroud has holes in it which allow for air intake.


----------



## lostsupper

It does, but there's no filter for the PSU if you install it fan-up. The PSU fan will be quieter than your GPU fan anyway.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dnic41*
> 
> Here is the build I just completed last week with a White Define R5. This has been the nicest case I have ever worked with. Both of my Hard drive cages have been removed as I use only SSD's. Build info: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Rfr6Mp


Very nice and clean build!


----------



## Dnic41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Very nice and clean build!


Thank you! Working with the sleeved cables was a bit more challenging then I initially anticipated, but worth it.


----------



## Blackops_2

For those of you that own the Define S, is it's chassis flex a worry once components are installed?


----------



## Xaltar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> For those of you that own the Define S, is it's chassis flex a worry once components are installed?


Not at all, even less so with at least one side panel installed. Even without either side panel the case flexes less than most more budget options. I love mine and have had absolutely no issues with it.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaltar*
> 
> Not at all, even less so with at least one side panel installed. Even without either side panel the case flexes less than most more budget options. I love mine and have had absolutely no issues with it.


Great to hear. I've been going back and forth between cases planning for a future build and the Define S pretty much fits the bill. That seemed to be the only worry i could come up with was chassis flex.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Are there any issues fitting a Noctua D15S in the Nano S case? I know it's right at the limit but would not want that to mean the window is touching.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Are there any issues fitting a Noctua D15S in the Nano S case? I know it's right at the limit but would not want that to mean the window is touching.


I can't speak from first hand knowledge, but I've seen reports from other Nano S owners that the NH-D15 and similar models do fit despite exceeding the specified height limit:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/4a8lvo/are_the_fractal_design_define_nano_s_and_the/


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I can't speak from first hand knowledge, but I've seen reports from other Nano S owners that the NH-D15 and similar models do fit despite exceeding the specified height limit:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/4a8lvo/are_the_fractal_design_define_nano_s_and_the/


Great thank you!


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Great thank you!


The one I saw specified a non-window version of the case... Might be worth some more investigation?


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> The one I saw specified a non-window version of the case... Might be worth some more investigation?


Yeah I am going to try and verify for sure, it seems the extra height comes from the side fans though, which can be lowered on the heatsink or replaced with a 120mm fan instead. I will start with my U12S which will fit, and then perhaps upgrade to the D15 sans the second fan.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> I'm all about that air-cooled life these days. Hard tube bending, bleeding and draining is just something I don't want to deal with anymore. Fortunately, the Nano S handles air-cooling well:
> 
> 
> 
> Specs in the sig. And yes, you can fit a D15 in the windowless Nano S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: the fans in front of the intake are the Phanteks PH-F140HP which you can read about here.


FOUND IT!!!!

So @fleetfeather specifies the windowless Nano S...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Yeah I am going to try and verify for sure, it seems the extra height comes from the side fans though, which can be lowered on the heatsink or replaced with a 120mm fan instead. I will start with my U12S which will fit, and then perhaps upgrade to the D15 sans the second fan.


Let's see if he can weigh in... if the D15 leaves impressions on the acoustic foam of the side panel, I imagine you wouldn't be able to fit it in the windowed version without damage or warping...


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> FOUND IT!!!!
> 
> So @fleetfeather specifies the windowless Nano S...
> Let's see if he can weigh in... if the D15 leaves impressions on the acoustic foam of the side panel, I imagine you wouldn't be able to fit it in the windowed version without damage or warping...


Thanks for digging that up, I am not a fan of the heatsink digging into the side panel, and it sounds like it won't fit the windowed version regardless.

Going to see how my U12S handles an OC, it's done very well on my i5-2500K with a 4.2Ghz OC.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Thanks for digging that up, I am not a fan of the heatsink digging into the side panel, and it sounds like it won't fit the windowed version regardless.
> 
> Going to see how my U12S handles an OC, it's done very well on my i5-2500K with a 4.2Ghz OC.


I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how well it handles that chip! Good luck and let us know how it goes!


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how well it handles that chip! Good luck and let us know how it goes!


Yeah I don't plan to push a CPU too hard, waiting to see how RyZen pans out, and then I'll either go for a 6/8 core AM4 chip, or the 6800K.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Yeah I don't plan to push a CPU too hard, waiting to see how RyZen pans out, and then I'll either go for a 6/8 core AM4 chip, or the 6800K.


OT but I truly expect the 6C/12T option to be the sweetest spot. I'm super excited to see what AMD is bringing to the table!


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> OT but I truly expect the 6C/12T option to be the sweetest spot. I'm super excited to see what AMD is bringing to the table!


Yes agreed! And there was a rumor floating around it had a 65 watt TDP, with the bigger 8 core featuring a 95 watt TDP.

If that is the case then I would expect the Noctua U12S to handle a medium overclock just fine. Is there any benefit to adding a second F12 to the U12 heatsink?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Yes agreed! And there was a rumor floating around it had a 65 watt TDP, with the bigger 8 core featuring a 95 watt TDP.
> 
> If that is the case then I would expect the Noctua U12S to handle a medium overclock just fine. Is there any benefit to adding a second F12 to the U12 heatsink?


At best is expect a couple degrees difference... If you have one lying around I'd say go for it but if you'd have to go buy it, it's not worth it.


----------



## austinmrs

So i have a Fractal Define S, with a 110i GT in the front, and a NF a14 FLX in the back as exhaust.

So this is what im planning to do:

Buy a X52, put it in the front with stock fans, and put another Fractal Venturi HP-12 in the front. So on the front i would have 3 x 120mm pressure intake.

Then i would buy a Fractal Venturi HF-14 to put on the back.

So i would keep the top closed, and keep 3 x 120mm intake high pressure, and 1 x 140mm back exhausting air out.

What do you think? Any sugestions?

I dont want to put the AIO on top because i would have to populate the front with intake fans still, that would result in more noise, and the AIO on the top of the case would make the cpu hotter.

Thanks for any replys


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> So i have a Fractal Define S, with a 110i GT in the front, and a NF a14 FLX in the back as exhaust.
> 
> So this is what im planning to do:
> 
> Buy a X52, put it in the front with stock fans, and put another Fractal Venturi HP-12 in the front. So on the front i would have 3 x 120mm pressure intake.
> 
> Then i would buy a Fractal Venturi HF-14 to put on the back.
> 
> So i would keep the top closed, and keep 3 x 120mm intake high pressure, and 1 x 140mm back exhausting air out.
> 
> What do you think? Any sugestions?
> 
> I dont want to put the AIO on top because i would have to populate the front with intake fans still, that would result in more noise, and the AIO on the top of the case would make the cpu hotter.
> 
> Thanks for any replys


I'd get 4 Phanteks F140MP or XP up front and one for exhaust. I have 4 XPs on a PWM hub and they're phenomenal, 3 front intake and 1 exhaust in the back. Ultra quiet and move tons of air. At the same RPM and all else equal, 140mm fans will always push more air than 120mm fans and be quieter.

The MP series has a higher top RPM and might provide a little more performance for a little more noise. The XP fans will perform fine but they will be dead silent. A quieter set of fans in push-pull might be an option, or the MP fans in push-pull so the performance is there if you want / need it?

Fractal Design HP fans aren't bad, but for the performance you get the price is a little high. If you can find them on sale, that's a good deal. Otherwise, grab the Phanteks fans I mentioned.


----------



## austinmrs

Yeah but if i mount 3 x 140mm in the front, i cant get an AIO there.. Because an AIO 140mm will only bit with 2 sets of fans, there is no room for a 3rd one..

Thats why i said i would put the AIO in the front (240mm aio)


----------



## Spencer25

I'm planning to buy a Mini C and to use a top (exhaust) Arctic Liquind freezer 240 (only 2 fans, not push-pull) and a Gtx 1070 Hybrid (Evga) with its radiator mounted on the back. Will they have enough room? I can't seem to find a picture of Define Mini C with a 240 radiator (top mounted) and 120 radiator (back mounted). A friend of mine has the same radiators installed on a Manta (Nzxt) but it seems that his case is a bit deeper and he placed the top radiator externally (inside the top cover). I could even decide to buy a Nano S if the radiators will also fit there...


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Yeah but if i mount 3 x 140mm in the front, i cant get an AIO there.. Because an AIO 140mm will only bit with 2 sets of fans, there is no room for a 3rd one..
> 
> Thats why i said i would put the AIO in the front (240mm aio)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> So i have a Fractal Define S, with a 110i GT in the front, and a NF a14 FLX in the back as exhaust...


You said you have the Corsair 110i GT which is a 280mm radiator... so I told you about 140mm fans to use. If you meant you had a Corsair 100i GTX then that's a different story. So which AIO do you have?


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> You said you have the Corsair 110i GT which is a 280mm radiator... so I told you about 140mm fans to use. If you meant you had a Corsair 100i GTX then that's a different story. So which AIO do you have?


I have a H110iGT. But i have it mounted on the front.

IF i have it mounted on the front, i can only fit 2 x 1400mm fans on the front, because with an 280mm aio on the front, you cant mount 3 140mm fans on the front, only 2, otherwise the radiator wont fit..

Thats why i was saying im planning to buy a 240mm AIO cooler, so i can fit 3 fans on the front (2 120mm on the aio, and another one 120mm there will fit)


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I have a H110iGT. But i have it mounted on the front.
> 
> IF i have it mounted on the front, i can only fit 2 x 1400mm fans on the front, because with an 280mm aio on the front, you cant mount 3 140mm fans on the front, only 2, otherwise the radiator wont fit..
> 
> Thats why i was saying im planning to buy a 240mm AIO cooler, so i can fit 3 fans on the front (2 120mm on the aio, and another one 120mm there will fit)


Ahhh, gotcha. Missed that part, sorry!

So you've tried to fit in in front with 3 140mm fans and it didn't fit? Hrm, that sucks.

I'd still recommend getting the Phanteks PH-F140MP fans and using two in the front, one for exhaust. Buying an all new cooler and all new 120mm fans is p1ssing away a lot of money for no change* in cooling performance. *see below

Honestly, I think your best bet is to get some new 140mm fans and stick with your current cooler. Switching between the X52 and the 110i GT will _at best_ lose you 1°C performance. Statistically speaking, that's right around Margin of Error. Practically, they perform the same. Don't buy it thinking your performance will improve, it won't.


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Ahhh, gotcha. Missed that part, sorry!
> 
> So you've tried to fit in in front with 3 140mm fans and it didn't fit? Hrm, that sucks.
> 
> I'd still recommend getting the Phanteks PH-F140MP fans and using two in the front, one for exhaust. Buying an all new cooler and all new 120mm fans is p1ssing away a lot of money for no change* in cooling performance. *see below
> 
> Honestly, I think your best bet is to get some new 140mm fans and stick with your current cooler. Switching between the X52 and the 110i GT will _at best_ lose you 1°C performance. Statistically speaking, that's right around Margin of Error. Practically, they perform the same. Don't buy it thinking your performance will improve, it won't.


Yeah it doesnt fit with 3 x 140mm fans because i have to put the H110i on the middle of the front.. i cant put it all the way on the bottom because it wont fit..

So i should only buy 3 x 140 PH-F140MP and put 1 back and 2 on the front aio?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Yeah it doesnt fit with 3 x 140mm fans because i have to put the H110i on the middle of the front.. i cant put it all the way on the bottom because it wont fit..
> 
> So i should only buy 3 x 140 PH-F140MP and put 1 back and 2 on the front aio?


Ah poop, that sucks. This case was made for 3 intake, 1 exhaust front-to-back airflow.

I think that's your best bet... those fans seem to be a good mix of _quieter_ performance. They're rated at higher RPM and DBa than my PH-F140XPs, but the sound profile of my XPs when they ramp up... it's just a really low hum with a slight rush of air, very pleasant noise profile for them. I think the MPs will be similar, but provide you with more airflow / pressure.

Is your GPU on air too? I highly recommend taking out the PCIe slot covers immediately below it, at least 2 of them. Doing that makes a huge difference in how well the GPU's heat is removed from inside the case! If you have an extra 120mm or 140mm fan, you can do an A / B experiment using the bottom intake, too. Sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't, and you won't know until you try it!


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Ah poop, that sucks. This case was made for 3 intake, 1 exhaust front-to-back airflow.
> 
> I think that's your best bet... those fans seem to be a good mix of _quieter_ performance. They're rated at higher RPM and DBa than my PH-F140XPs, but the sound profile of my XPs when they ramp up... it's just a really low hum with a slight rush of air, very pleasant noise profile for them. I think the MPs will be similar, but provide you with more airflow / pressure.
> 
> Is your GPU on air too? I highly recommend taking out the PCIe slot covers immediately below it, at least 2 of them. Doing that makes a huge difference in how well the GPU's heat is removed from inside the case! If you have an extra 120mm or 140mm fan, you can do an A / B experiment using the bottom intake, too. Sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't, and you won't know until you try it!


It can fit 3 x 140mm intake, but without the radiator.. With the AIO i have to move the 2 bottom fans a bit, and the 3rd one wont fit with the AIO there.

GPU is on air, an aftermarket cooler. Its the 270w Hawk by MSI.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> It can fit 3 x 140mm intake, but without the radiator.. With the AIO i have to move the 2 bottom fans a bit, and the 3rd one wont fit with the AIO there.
> 
> GPU is on air, an aftermarket cooler. Its the 270w Hawk by MSI.


I know, I mean the intake position on the floor of the case, right in front of the PSU. Do some stress testing or gaming and record temps. Then put an intake there on the bottom, do the same stress testing or gaming and record temps. Compare. Boom, A / B comparison in a real use-case scenario. Then you can see if the bottom intake will help at all.


----------



## JackCY

The side intake is better for GPU temps in my experience than bottom, but much more noisier to use, the most noisy as there is no channel for the sound.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> The side intake is better for GPU temps in my experience than bottom, but much more noisier to use, the most noisy as there is no channel for the sound.


There is no side intake for the Define S with or without the window. Plus those tend to be super noisy since the fan is right there, like you mentioned.


----------



## austinmrs

Just ordered 3 140mm phanteks like you told me. Will put 2 intake on the front on the h110i GT and the other one on the back. Will keep the top of my define a closed. And the bottom without a fan too.

Is this a good enough airflow on my case?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> Just ordered 3 140mm phanteks like you told me. Will put 2 intake on the front on the h110i GT and the other one on the back. Will keep the top of my define a closed. And the bottom without a fan too.
> 
> Is this a good enough airflow on my case?


I think you'll be pleased with the results and the fans. Great fans, Phanteks and Thermalright are some of the best fan and heatsink makers out there as far as I'm concerned. Really high quality stuff, in both engineering and feel.

Try removing the two PCIe slot covers immediately below your GFX card... I think you'll see an improvement in card temps while gaming too.

Also give the floor intake fan test a go, it might help a little bit, it might not, but at least you'll know! Let us know how it goes!


----------



## austinmrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I think you'll be pleased with the results and the fans. Great fans, Phanteks and Thermalright are some of the best fan and heatsink makers out there as far as I'm concerned. Really high quality stuff, in both engineering and feel.
> 
> Try removing the two PCIe slot covers immediately below your GFX card... I think you'll see an improvement in card temps while gaming too.
> 
> Also give the floor intake fan test a go, it might help a little bit, it might not, but at least you'll know! Let us know how it goes!


I don't like bottom intake, I feel they do nothing and collect to much dust


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *austinmrs*
> 
> I don't like bottom intake, I feel they do nothing and collect to much dust


Yeah, certainly seems to be the case... from what I've tried the bottom intake helps as often as it hurts, and when it does help it's maybe a degree or so.


----------



## Divvy

I've gone with the Fractal Design Nano S windowless for my latest build. The goal of the build is to have a PC as quiet as possible when not gaming. I've gathered the following parts for the build.

Gigabyte GA-Z270N-Wifi
i7 7700K
16gb Patriot Viper 3600mhz CL16
Asus GTX 1080 Strix
Samsung 960 EVO 500gb M.2 SSD
Super Flower Golden Silent 500w PSU
Noctua NH-D14
2x NF-A14-ULN in front
1x NF-S12A-ULN in back
1x NF-S12A-ULN at bottom

The plan is to use the ULNA adapters to have the Noctua case fans running between 600-650RPM. I will set the NH-D14 to ~650rpm in BIOS settings. The 7700K runs happily at 4.5ghz 1.12v, which is what I'll be running in this build. The GTX 1080 will run overclocked at stock voltage. I may even run the CPU fanless, as preliminary testing suggests it's very viable.

I've identified a few problems. The RAM heatspreaders are too high for the NH-D14 front fan, so it'll have to be removed. The NH-D14 heatpipes may dig into the dampening material of the side panel, but should fit according to users. The PSU is 170mm deep, which will partially block the wiring grommet, but people have managed to fit their cables even on a 180mm PSU with some fiddling. The GTX 1080 ends up very close to the PSU, but according to tests I've seen, this does not seem to cause any big issues.

Any tips, or problems I haven't spotted?

EDIT: Added Noctua case fans I forgot.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divvy*
> 
> I've gone with the Fractal Design Nano S windowless for my latest build. The goal of the build is to have a PC as quiet as possible when not gaming. I've gathered the following parts for the build.
> 
> Gigabyte GA-Z270N-Wifi
> i7 7700K
> 16gb Patriot Viper 3600mhz CL16
> Asus GTX 1080 Strix
> Samsung 960 EVO 500gb M.2 SSD
> Super Flower Golden Silent 500w PSU
> Noctua NH-D14
> 2x NF-A14-ULN in front
> 1x NF-S12A-ULN in back
> 1x NF-S12A-ULN at bottom
> 
> The plan is to use the ULNA adapters to have the Noctua case fans running between 600-650RPM. I will set the NH-D14 to ~650rpm in BIOS settings. The 7700K runs happily at 4.5ghz 1.12v, which is what I'll be running in this build. The GTX 1080 will run overclocked at stock voltage. I may even run the CPU fanless, as preliminary testing suggests it's very viable.
> 
> I've identified a few problems. The RAM heatspreaders are too high for the NH-D14 front fan, so it'll have to be removed. The NH-D14 heatpipes may dig into the dampening material of the side panel, but should fit according to users. The PSU is 170mm deep, which will partially block the wiring grommet, but people have managed to fit their cables even on a 180mm PSU with some fiddling. The GTX 1080 ends up very close to the PSU, but according to tests I've seen, this does not seem to cause any big issues.
> 
> Any tips, or problems I haven't spotted?
> 
> EDIT: Added Noctua case fans I forgot.


You already bought the RAM? I'd suggest regular sized RAM since the heatsinks are completely unnecessary. Something like a Corsair kit or Mushkin kit.

I'm intrigued by your passive CPU heatsink thought... I say try it, both with the front fans on and off the ULNA. In a smaller case I could see that working pretty well! Exciting!


----------



## Blackops_2

For the define S regarding the front rad mount. If i put 120mm fans on the outside of the chassis but inside the front cover so i can acquire a thicker rad up front, will the fans reliably be able to circulate air? Or are they too close to the front cover to actually move air? I've seen some people do this but one modded the front panel for more ventilation and the other hasn't answered my comment yet.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> For the define S regarding the front rad mount. If i put 120mm fans on the outside of the chassis but inside the front cover so i can acquire a thicker rad up front, will the fans reliably be able to circulate air? Or are they too close to the front cover to actually move air? I've seen some people do this but one modded the front panel for more ventilation and the other hasn't answered my comment yet.


I know you can do it and it'll work, but I'd recommend getting some strong fans and then a low-FPI radiator to mitigate any loss of airflow that could result.

Keep in mind that rad thickness doesn't make a _massive_ difference in a radiator's cooling capability. It's primarily the number of fans (240, 360, etc), fan speed (also depending on what the rad was designed for), and fin density (correlated with fan speed, of course).

What radiators are you looking at? @GetToTheChopaa has a HW Labs Nemesis GTX360 rad for sale that could fit inside the case with your fans and it is a great radiator. That is also a great price for it. Pair that rad in the front with 3 EK Vardar fans (appropriate RPMs for that rad seem to be about 2000) or what I would do is grab 3 x Phanteks PH-F120MP PWM fans. Those fans a half the price of the EK fans and are very silent for how well they... blow. It would make it easy to go push-pull with 'em.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Divvy*
> 
> Yes, it's already bought. Was 2nd hand and cheap for the speed compared to shopping new.


Ah ok, makes sense. Good deal then!


----------



## Divvy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> You already bought the RAM? I'd suggest regular sized RAM since the heatsinks are completely unnecessary.


Yes, it's already bought. Was 2nd hand and cheap for the speed compared to shopping new.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I know you can do it and it'll work, but I'd recommend getting some strong fans and then a low-FPI radiator to mitigate any loss of airflow that could result.
> 
> Keep in mind that rad thickness doesn't make a _massive_ difference in a radiator's cooling capability. It's primarily the number of fans (240, 360, etc), fan speed (also depending on what the rad was designed for), and fin density (correlated with fan speed, of course).
> 
> What radiators are you looking at? @GetToTheChopaa has a HW Labs Nemesis GTX360 rad for sale that could fit inside the case with your fans and it is a great radiator. That is also a great price for it. Pair that rad in the front with 3 EK Vardar fans (appropriate RPMs for that rad seem to be about 2000) or what I would do is grab 3 x Phanteks PH-F120MP PWM fans. Those fans a half the price of the EK fans and are very silent for how well they... blow. It would make it easy to go push-pull with 'em.


I was looking at the EK PE 360s once i saw they could fit. I had taken a look at the builds linked below and before that had been looking at 



 i was thinking of two 360mm Nemesis black ice GTS. This is all planned for Ryzen/Vega combo at least assuming Vega performs up to expectations. Which for me will be at or slightly above a 1080, for a lower price. Ryzen at this point i'm expecting to best my 3770K whether it's a major or minor improvement we'll just have to see, but mainly i want to move to a 6C/12T CPU or 8C/16T. I'm also looking to move to a ASUS MG278Q for this build and wanted to have enough rad space to accommodate a second Vega down the road if i want. For fans i have a couple of SP120s from my 3770k build i never finished. I was thinking i might go with thermaltake Riings though, least aesthetically speaking i really like them.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1584943/build-log-star-wars-inspired-define-s-build


http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir


----------



## frostbite

I got everything installed in the core 500, Its soo much better but I have one problem with the psu exhaust, It doesn't seem to be exiting the case.
I was wondering if it would be a good Idea to get foam gasket tape to focus the exhaust out of the side panel?

http://s218.photobucket.com/user/frstbte01/media/20170125_212849.jpg.html


----------



## Loladinas

So a few days ago I caved and bought the Define Mini C. Received it yesterday and transferred my build. Solid case, but it turns out it actually has less GPU room than my previous case, TJ08-E. I'm using an Accelero Xtreme 3 to cool my GPU. Couldn't fit any 25mm thick fans in the front because heatpipes would interfere with the fan hubs. Had to mount them on the outside. Not a huge deal, since I was planning on eventually replacing the front panel with something with a bit more open path for air anyway. I also would have preferred a bit more room behind the motherboard tray, but I guess I'm just spoiled by my previous case. PSU shroud could also be a bit more open as it's fan side up, running passive. A couple of screw holes had been threaded wrong, took a fair bit of finesse and force to screw them in for the first time, same issue as my Node 304.

Other than that no complaints. I think it looks beautiful, with no unnecessary frills, which seems to be somewhat uncommon these days. It's built a lot more solid than TJ08-e. I couldn't find one "wonky" bit. Side panels feel like you could whack someone over the head (if you were inclined to do so, I'm not saying you should) with them, and they'd still be fine. Cable routing is pretty much as easy as it could be.


Yes, that's pencil eraser supporting the GPU so it doesn't sag as much. It's a... uh... temporary solution.

[rant]I could fit the card just fine in my Silverstone case, despite it being 14mm shorter AND using a 32mm thick fan at the front[/rant]


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I was looking at the EK PE 360s once i saw they could fit. I had taken a look at the builds linked below and before that had been looking at
> 
> 
> 
> i was thinking of two 360mm Nemesis black ice GTS. This is all planned for Ryzen/Vega combo at least assuming Vega performs up to expectations. Which for me will be at or slightly above a 1080, for a lower price. Ryzen at this point i'm expecting to best my 3770K whether it's a major or minor improvement we'll just have to see, but mainly i want to move to a 6C/12T CPU or 8C/16T. I'm also looking to move to a ASUS MG278Q for this build and wanted to have enough rad space to accommodate a second Vega down the road if i want. For fans i have a couple of SP120s from my 3770k build i never finished. I was thinking i might go with thermaltake Riings though, least aesthetically speaking i really like them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1584943/build-log-star-wars-inspired-define-s-build
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1570312/build-log-fractal-define-s-x99-980-sli-watercooled-lf-reaction-reservoir


Those are all good rads, I had a custom loop prior to going big air and in my extensive research I figured the best thickness for a rad was between 45mm and 55mm or so. You can find a lot of great rads at around 50-54mm, like a lot of the HWLabs rads. As it is right now, I think maybe your best bet is to get a 360mm for up front, put the fans inside the front cover, and see how it does! That way, later on down the road, you can add another rad if you want, though even with 2 graphics cards I'd think a 360mm and a 140mm in bottom plus 120/140mm at the back will do you just fine. That way you can leave the top on which is massive in reducing noise from this case. Anywho, that's what I would do and I think that's 



 too. Worse comes to worse, you could just throw a second 360mm rad up top!

Thermalbench.com is your best friend when researching stuff! It's run by a member here who does some extensive real-world testing with fans, rads, AIOs, heatsinks, etc. Really great resource for info! They researched the 120mm Riing fan and found it performed best closer to the max RPM, with the LNA it was found to push more air relative to the other fans in the test, but also to be noiser at the lower RPM levels. That said, it looks like it has really fine voltage control, down to about 360RPM! Seems like if you don't plan on using the fans at lower RPMs, they're a good choice as long as you're ok with the price... I just looked 'em up and they're quite spendy. For the same price or less you can get better performing fans that quietly push more air... i.e. the Phanteks PH-F120MP fans I mentioned before.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I got everything installed in the core 500, Its soo much better but I have one problem with the psu exhaust, It doesn't seem to be exiting the case.
> I was wondering if it would be a good Idea to get foam gasket tape to focus the exhaust out of the side panel?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: snip!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s218.photobucket.com/user/frstbte01/media/20170125_212849.jpg.html


Maybe throwing a couple intake fans into the top would help promote positive pressure, thereby forcing the PSU exhaust out the side? I think a couple quiet fans in the top mount would help a lot...

Ever consider reversing the CPU mount so instead of exhausting air out the rear fan position you set that fan to intake and install your CPU cooler in reverse? I wonder if that would make a huge difference overall. Coupled with 2 good intake fans at the top, I think you'd see great temp improvements across the board and it wouldn't matter if your PSU exhaust was making it out of the case or not.


----------



## LazarusIV

Ah poo, double post... sorry


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Those are all good rads, I had a custom loop prior to going big air and in my extensive research I figured the best thickness for a rad was between 45mm and 55mm or so. You can find a lot of great rads at around 50-54mm, like a lot of the HWLabs rads. As it is right now, I think maybe your best bet is to get a 360mm for up front, put the fans inside the front cover, and see how it does! That way, later on down the road, you can add another rad if you want, though even with 2 graphics cards I'd think a 360mm and a 140mm in bottom plus 120/140mm at the back will do you just fine. That way you can leave the top on which is massive in reducing noise from this case. Anywho, that's what I would do and I think that's
> 
> 
> 
> too. Worse comes to worse, you could just throw a second 360mm rad up top!
> 
> Thermalbench.com is your best friend when researching stuff! It's run by a member here who does some extensive real-world testing with fans, rads, AIOs, heatsinks, etc. Really great resource for info! They researched the 120mm Riing fan and found it performed best closer to the max RPM, with the LNA it was found to push more air relative to the other fans in the test, but also to be noiser at the lower RPM levels. That said, it looks like it has really fine voltage control, down to about 360RPM! Seems like if you don't plan on using the fans at lower RPMs, they're a good choice as long as you're ok with the price... I just looked 'em up and they're quite spendy. For the same price or less you can get better performing fans that quietly push more air... i.e. the Phanteks PH-F120MP fans I mentioned before.


Right now i'm thinking i'm going to try and sell my 800D probably unsuccessfully but hopefully i can get it sold to pick up a define S. Then i'll go ahead and grab a 360mm PE and expand my Glacer 240L for the time being so i can put the block on my 780 classy and squeeze some performance out of it. No rush for this build or anything as right now i'm more or less tied up in finishing some rifle builds and paying off a safe, and neither of the planned components are out ha.

Since two 360mm is doable i do plan on sticking with that amount of rad space, hell i'd put a 120 on bottom next to the PSU and on the exhaust fan if i could but i'm not sure either of those will actually fit without a small PSU for the bottom or modding the top so the rad doesn't stick down so far. That said i don't have the Define S on hand obviously and best i can tell i can't run that configuration. Though we shall see. Just going off my experience 120x6 on my 8320 and 780 with sp120s it's doing about all it can to hold the 8320 at bay with 1.4vcore or so. Though i do have a low FPI swiftech on top which is the only 360mm in the build and that could be attributing to it. I'm just thinking once i have something that produces similar heat like these 6 and 8 core CPUs seem to produce i'll want as much rad space as i can get, albeit keeping the system in a small form factor.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Right now i'm thinking i'm going to try and sell my 800D probably unsuccessfully but hopefully i can get it sold to pick up a define S. Then i'll go ahead and grab a 360mm PE and expand my Glacer 240L for the time being so i can put the block on my 780 classy and squeeze some performance out of it. No rush for this build or anything as right now i'm more or less tied up in finishing some rifle builds and paying off a safe, and neither of the planned components are out ha.
> 
> Since two 360mm is doable i do plan on sticking with that amount of rad space, hell i'd put a 120 on bottom next to the PSU and on the exhaust fan if i could but i'm not sure either of those will actually fit without a small PSU for the bottom or modding the top so the rad doesn't stick down so far. That said i don't have the Define S on hand obviously and best i can tell i can't run that configuration. Though we shall see. Just going off my experience 120x6 on my 8320 and 780 with sp120s it's doing about all it can to hold the 8320 at bay with 1.4vcore or so. Though i do have a low FPI swiftech on top which is the only 360mm in the build and that could be attributing to it. I'm just thinking once i have something that produces similar heat like these 6 and 8 core CPUs seem to produce i'll want as much rad space as i can get, albeit keeping the system in a small form factor.


Hopefully you'll be able to sell it... I think you will though. It's still a pretty popular case for massive watercooling builds and I think it'll get some attention, especially for the right price!

If you do your research (buy a shorter PSU [Which typically will be a semi-modular, not fully modular. And be realistic with your power requirements], push only for fans, average thickness rads [45-50mm or so], and paying special attention to length and width of rads, you can definitely fit a 360mm up front, 120mm in the bottom (limits you to PSU length of 165mm), and a 140mm at the rear. Nice thing about the rear fan mount is the screw holes are actually slots, so you can position the rad or fan up or down a good distance before you tighten it down. With the right planning you can get plenty of cooling while leaving the top covers on! This case is amazing for air or water cooling, best case I've owned yet and I've done both types of cooling in it!

I think you'll find you won't need the 360mm in both top and front. With the additional smaller rads, the front 360mm, and reasonable overclocks on both CPU and even 2 GPUs you should be just fine. Required rad space is often pretty exaggerated. If I had more time I'd put two GPUs and a CPU on my 360mm rad and test temps with different overclocks. I've got a good 360mm rad and a res / pump combo sitting around because I've been too lazy to sell them. If only I had the time...


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Those are all good rads, I had a custom loop prior to going big air and in my extensive research I figured the best thickness for a rad was between 45mm and 55mm or so. You can find a lot of great rads at around 50-54mm, like a lot of the HWLabs rads. As it is right now, I think maybe your best bet is to get a 360mm for up front, put the fans inside the front cover, and see how it does! That way, later on down the road, you can add another rad if you want, though even with 2 graphics cards I'd think a 360mm and a 140mm in bottom plus 120/140mm at the back will do you just fine. That way you can leave the top on which is massive in reducing noise from this case. Anywho, that's what I would do and I think that's
> 
> 
> 
> too. Worse comes to worse, you could just throw a second 360mm rad up top!
> 
> Thermalbench.com is your best friend when researching stuff! It's run by a member here who does some extensive real-world testing with fans, rads, AIOs, heatsinks, etc. Really great resource for info! They researched the 120mm Riing fan and found it performed best closer to the max RPM, with the LNA it was found to push more air relative to the other fans in the test, but also to be noiser at the lower RPM levels. That said, it looks like it has really fine voltage control, down to about 360RPM! Seems like if you don't plan on using the fans at lower RPMs, they're a good choice as long as you're ok with the price... I just looked 'em up and they're quite spendy. For the same price or less you can get better performing fans that quietly push more air... i.e. the Phanteks PH-F120MP fans I mentioned before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe throwing a couple intake fans into the top would help promote positive pressure, thereby forcing the PSU exhaust out the side? I think a couple quiet fans in the top mount would help a lot...
> 
> Ever consider reversing the CPU mount so instead of exhausting air out the rear fan position you set that fan to intake and install your CPU cooler in reverse? I wonder if that would make a huge difference overall. Coupled with 2 good intake fans at the top, I think you'd see great temp improvements across the board and it wouldn't matter if your PSU exhaust was making it out of the case or not.


There is no front opening for a fan, the on the opposite side to the pus is the inlet for the gfx card, I have no space for top fans since I have an optical drive and my cpu cooler is quite massive, I would have used the cryorig C7 but the temps I got in the old case were quite poor


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> There is no front opening for a fan, the on the opposite side to the pus is the inlet for the gfx card, I have no space for top fans since I have an optical drive and my cpu cooler is quite massive, I would have used the cryorig C7 but the temps I got in the old case were quite poor


I know there's no front openings, what I meant was turn the rear exhaust fan around to intake instead and then turning your CPU cooler around 180°, giving you back-to-front airflow. That way it's feeding fresh outside air to your CPU cooler and keeping any (potentially) hot PSU air away from your CPU and graphics card.

Does the ODD go back far enough to block the rear-most top fan position?


----------



## frostbite

no the odd just blocks the first, but my tower cooler is too wide, Even If it was to work your way where would the exhaust be?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> no the odd just blocks the first, but my tower cooler is too wide, Even If it was to work your way where would the exhaust be?


If you're bringing in more air then it has to exhaust somewhere. You don't necessarily have to have an exhaust fan to get the air out, it'll find its way. Especially in a small case like that with so much ventilation. The important factor would be to get fresh air to the CPU and the easiest way to do it in that case is to make the rear fan mount an intake. The GPU, with its own side vent, probably won't be starved for fresh air too much, especially as its fans ramp up.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> If you're bringing in more air then it has to exhaust somewhere. You don't necessarily have to have an exhaust fan to get the air out, it'll find its way. Especially in a small case like that with so much ventilation. The important factor would be to get fresh air to the CPU and the easiest way to do it in that case is to make the rear fan mount an intake. The GPU, with its own side vent, probably won't be starved for fresh air too much, especially as its fans ramp up.


At the moment the cpu is drawing air in from the top of the odd, the rep said there is about 20mm the top grill to the top of the drive plus it drawing in from the gpu side (gpu only spins up when needed)

My only issue is the psu exhaust not exiting


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> At the moment the cpu is drawing air in from the top of the odd, the rep said there is about 20mm the top grill to the top of the drive plus it drawing in from the gpu side (gpu only spins up when needed)
> 
> My only issue is the psu exhaust not exiting


@frostbite, whawis your PSU? Because if you're using a 750W semi-passive platinum unit to power a stock cpu with a low-end gpu, your Psu will never produce any heat ?

If you're concerned however, I would just tape some cardboard to straighten the psu airflow ; but again, I didn't because I discovered I couldn't push a 550W gold psu, even with a lightly OC 4670k and a gtx980...


----------



## austinmrs

So I have a fractal define S.

H110i GT mounted on the front with 2 x Phanteks F140 MP (both on pwm mode - turbo mode on my viii hero).

Then I have no bottom fans, no top fans (top closed) and 1 x Phanteks F 140MP on the back as exhaust (pwm mode - silent mode on the hero BIOS).

Stressing using real branch at 4.6ghz I can't hear my PC and my temps are fine.

I think I'm still getting positive air pressure, right?

I'm quite happy with my setup now. Any suggestions on airflow? Or am I good?


----------



## frostbite

I have just cut some hollow D shaped draught excluder and its now exhausting out the side,

I have a feeling that the 140mm R3 and the psu were cancelling each other, through the 1cm gap between the side panel and psu mount


----------



## rockamockafon

Can I join the club?


----------



## Gerbacio

Hi crew ive never done a custom loop and as we all know it is very intimidating.

I have been debating if getting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-x360 it has everything i need or so it says .

My two questions are

Would this fit inside my Fractal Design r5???

would this be able to power the CPU and the 1x 1080 ftw?? (might turn into a 1080ti down the road)

my 6700k is running 5ghz , delided and cooled by a Noctua D15 not touching 70 degrees under load . would cooling stay around the same ? and can it efficiently cool my 1080ftw so i can squeeze some juice out of it ?

I really want to fit it all in and i dont want another case as im Fractal or die !


----------



## Lee0

Hello,
I'm only here to ask a quick question; will my EVGA T2 850w PSU (note: it's modular and 180mm deep) fit in the Fractal Define Mini C - windowed even though it's 5mm longer than the maximum specification (175mm)?


----------



## superhik994

Hello everyone!

Got the new case, FD Nano S (no window).

So, here's the problem.

I have a motherboard with only one 4pin header and that one is used by the CPU. How do I connect the front and rear fans? Do I go with that adapter - 3pin to molex and they get the juice from the PSU? Will they run in that case at 100% rpm and if so, will that be loud? Is there an any way to power them from PSU and have them to run silently?

offtopic: I've lost the HDD and case screws from my old Node 304 build. Do you think I could contact the Fractal so I could get maybe some spare screws?


----------



## JackCY

eBay is full of the necessary fan cabling, pick your poison, your local hardware store has screws.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhik994*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> Got the new case, FD Nano S (no window).
> 
> So, here's the problem.
> 
> I have a motherboard with only one 4pin header and that one is used by the CPU. How do I connect the front and rear fans? Do I go with that adapter - 3pin to molex and they get the juice from the PSU? Will they run in that case at 100% rpm and if so, will that be loud? Is there an any way to power them from PSU and have them to run silently?
> 
> offtopic: I've lost the HDD and case screws from my old Node 304 build. Do you think I could contact the Fractal so I could get maybe some spare screws?


What motherboard do you have?

It will help us help you if you add your build details to your sig and or update rigbuilder.


----------



## superhik994

Done.









My mobo is AsRock H97mitx/ac.


----------



## Lee0

Could anyone help me with my issue?


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhik994*
> 
> Done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My mobo is AsRock H97mitx/ac.


This one? http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H97M-ITXac/?cat=Specifications

If yes, it looks like there are two fan headers.

- 1 x CPU Fan Connector (4-pin)
- 1 x Chassis Fan Connector (4-pin)

Run the CPU cooler off the CPU fan header, and get a Y connector for the two case fans and you should be set.


----------



## superhik994

Well, I'll be damned. I lived 3 years thinking that one 4pin is meant for cpu or case fans exlusively. -.- Never felt as stupid as I do now haha! Thank you so much! :*

Alright, I've got the 4pin to 3pin and 2pin splitter. Both case fans (front and rear) have 3pins. I've connected them and somehow they work. I suppose they can't be controlled by the motherboard?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhik994*
> 
> Well, I'll be damned. I lived 3 years thinking that one 4pin is meant for cpu or case fans exlusively. -.- Never felt as stupid as I do now haha! Thank you so much! :*
> 
> Alright, I've got the 4pin to 3pin and 2pin splitter. Both case fans (front and rear) have 3pins. I've connected them and somehow they work. I suppose they can't be controlled by the motherboard?


4-pin fan headers are typically PWM and 3-pin are voltage only. These days, however, only the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPTION headers are truly PWM. The rest of the fan headers, whether 4- or 3-pin, are voltage only. Some mobos have voltage control headers so they use the RPM sensor for that.

If your case has room, check out PWM fan hubs, like from Silverstone or Swiftech.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superhik994*
> 
> Well, I'll be damned. I lived 3 years thinking that one 4pin is meant for cpu or case fans exlusively. -.- Never felt as stupid as I do now haha! Thank you so much! :*
> 
> Alright, I've got the 4pin to 3pin and 2pin splitter. Both case fans (front and rear) have 3pins. I've connected them and somehow they work. I suppose they can't be controlled by the motherboard?


I"m not familiar with ASrock MoBos, but generally, if the 4 pin header can handle PWM fans ( 4 pin) it should also be able to handle voltage controlled fans ( 3 pin ).

If the front and rear case fans are the same, it should be easy to speed control them with a single Y-connector.

There are other options, but this is what I've done when I have only a single header for the system (case) fans.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> 4-pin fan headers are typically PWM and 3-pin are voltage only. These days, however, only the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPTION headers are truly PWM. The rest of the fan headers, whether 4- or 3-pin, are voltage only. Some mobos have voltage control headers so they use the RPM sensor for that.
> 
> If your case has room, check out PWM fan hubs, like from Silverstone or Swiftech.


Agree based on all the Gigabyte boards I've used, but on the Asus ROG Hero VIII all of the headers are PWM controlled.

excerpt from here: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7276/asus-rog-maximus-viii-hero-intel-z170-motherboard-review/index2.html

_"The Maximus VIII Hero has seven fan headers circled in blue, and all of them support both PWM and DC (voltage) control. This is a big deal, as I don't know of any other motherboard with all headers supporting both PWM and voltage mode."
_

Sadly, the case fans I used were all voltage controlled


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Agree based on all the Gigabyte boards I've used, but on the Asus ROG Hero VIII all of the headers are PWM controlled.
> 
> excerpt from here: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7276/asus-rog-maximus-viii-hero-intel-z170-motherboard-review/index2.html
> 
> _"The Maximus VIII Hero has seven fan headers circled in blue, and all of them support both PWM and DC (voltage) control. This is a big deal, as I don't know of any other motherboard with all headers supporting both PWM and voltage mode."
> _
> 
> Sadly, the case fans I used were all voltage controlled


That's great to hear, almost all motherboards lately (even the expensive feature-rich ones) have been claiming "X PWM fan headers!!!" but in reality only the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPTION were PWM controlled... they must've listened because people threw a fit about it. It's so, so nice to have so many PWM headers on your mobo, no need to worry about extra stuff.

I got the Silverstone 8-way PWM fan hub to use and it's very nicely built. Sturdy construction, simple design, and it works very well. Definitely a good option if your mobo doesn't have a bunch of PWM headers! There are also hubs you can buy that take the PWM signal from the CPU_FAN PWM header and convert it to voltage control. I think Silverstone makes one of those, too.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gerbacio*
> 
> Hi crew ive never done a custom loop and as we all know it is very intimidating.
> 
> I have been debating if getting https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-x360 it has everything i need or so it says .
> 
> My two questions are
> 
> Would this fit inside my Fractal Design r5???
> 
> would this be able to power the CPU and the 1x 1080 ftw?? (might turn into a 1080ti down the road)
> 
> my 6700k is running 5ghz , delided and cooled by a Noctua D15 not touching 70 degrees under load . would cooling stay around the same ? and can it efficiently cool my 1080ftw so i can squeeze some juice out of it ?
> 
> I really want to fit it all in and i dont want another case as im Fractal or die !


Yeah it should fit in the r5

It absolutely will not power your cpu and gpu. It will certainly cool it just fine. Sorry could help that one.

I couldn't say on temps but I'm sure it'll do as well if not better than your noctua. Fan dependent.

You aren't likely to squeeze anymore overclock on your 1080 through water vs air. But it will quiet it down. It'd have to be some pretty poor air cooling to not max out your oc. The acx on the evga is a nice cooler too.

You should be good to go in your current case.

*note* the height of your ram could play a part in not letting that thick rad fit up top though.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Yeah it should fit in the r5
> 
> It absolutely will not power your cpu and gpu. It will certainly cool it just fine. Sorry could help that one.
> 
> I couldn't say on temps but I'm sure it'll do as well if not better than your noctua. Fan dependent.
> 
> You aren't likely to squeeze anymore overclock on your 1080 through water vs air. But it will quiet it down. It'd have to be some pretty poor air cooling to not max out your oc. The acx on the evga is a nice cooler too.
> 
> You should be good to go in your current case.
> 
> *note* the height of your ram could play a part in not letting that thick rad fit up top though.


The 360mm rad mount at the top of the case is offset from center, so it should fit even with tall RAM as long as it's not ridiculously tall... I don't have specific numbers to back that up though. Maybe someone's got an R5 to do a lil measuring?


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lee0*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm only here to ask a quick question; will my EVGA T2 850w PSU (note: it's modular and 180mm deep) fit in the Fractal Define Mini C - windowed even though it's 5mm longer than the maximum specification (175mm)?


I elaborated on this in another post a while back (#15185 in this thread), but long story short, yes, the Define C/Mini C can fit a 180mm+ PSU in certain configurations. See the original post for details, but here's the short answer on max PSU length in the Define C Series based on my personal tests:

HDD cage removed, no HDD: 215mm (PSUs over 175mm will partially overlap the forward vent, which is ever so slightly higher than the rubber pads under the PSU)
HDD cage removed, HDD mounted to case floor: 175mm (assuming connections on PSU clear the HDD, ~150mm if they don't)
HDD cage in forwardmost position: 210mm + 25mm for cables (again, some overlap with the forward vent on PSUs over 175mm)
HDD cage in rearmost position: 145mm + 25mm for cables


----------



## Lee0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I elaborated on this in another post a while back (#15185 in this thread), but long story short, yes, the Define C/Mini C can fit a 180mm+ PSU in certain configurations. See the original post for details, but here's the short answer on max PSU length in the Define C Series based on my personal tests:
> 
> HDD cage removed, no HDD: 215mm (PSUs over 175mm will partially overlap the forward vent, which is ever so slightly higher than the rubber pads under the PSU)
> HDD cage removed, HDD mounted to case floor: 175mm (assuming connections on PSU clear the HDD, ~150mm if they don't)
> HDD cage in forwardmost position: 210mm + 25mm for cables (again, some overlap with the forward vent on PSUs over 175mm)
> HDD cage in rearmost position: 145mm + 25mm for cables


Thank you, I was just about to bump the question.


----------



## SSWolf1993

Hi,

I wanna buy the best sound reducing case (no window of course). I will be using noctua fans, air cooler and 1 ssd.

1. Is the fractal case a way to go?
2. Are a Define R5, S, C and mini C all using the same dense sound-absorbing material?
3. Will the sound reduction be different between these cases only because of their sizes?
4. I have my eyes on mini C, coz I don't need anything bigger. Will it perform less than others?

Thank you.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I wanna buy the best sound reducing case (no window of course). I will be using noctua fans, air cooler and 1 ssd.
> 
> 1. Is the fractal case a way to go?
> 2. Are a Define R5, S, C and mini C all using the same dense sound-absorbing material?
> 3. Will the sound reduction be different between these cases only because of their sizes?
> 4. I have my eyes on mini C, coz I don't need anything bigger. Will it perform less than others?
> 
> Thank you.


I know that between Define R5 and Define S, the Define R5 is acoustically better. I'm not sure about the Define Mini C though, I believe in reviews it's pretty quiet, but I think the Define R5 is the king of quiet. I have a windowed Define S and with 3 intake fans, 1 exhaust fan, and one fan on my CPU heatsink it's so d4mn3d quiet it's hard to tell if it's on sometimes...


----------



## infernoRS

Back at camp Fractal. The Define Mini C felt like a safe choice to be my next case after owning both Define R2 and R3, so here we go:


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I know that between Define R5 and Define S, the Define R5 is acoustically better. I'm not sure about the Define Mini C though, I believe in reviews it's pretty quiet, but I think the Define R5 is the king of quiet. I have a windowed Define S and with 3 intake fans, 1 exhaust fan, and one fan on my CPU heatsink it's so d4mn3d quiet it's hard to tell if it's on sometimes...


Thank you for information!

If anyone else has more to add, thank you. I appreciate it!


----------



## shiznit

Set up my Define C a couple weeks ago. Really like this case! Came from an old p182 and this one is just as quiet if not quieter and probably half the size. I can barely hear the fans at 900 rpm if I really try. When I take the side panel off I can hear the GPU pump (can't be slowed down) but with the panel on the noise goes away completely.


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infernoRS*
> 
> Back at camp Fractal. The Define Mini C felt like a safe choice to be my next case after owning both Define R2 and R3.]


Post the temps and noise levels please.


----------



## Starlet

I'm considering doing my next build in a Fractal Design Define Mini C. Is it possible to fit a 140mm fan at the rear exhaust fan slot? Maybe a Noctua NF-A15 (it has 120mm mounting holes)?

I'm going for the Noctua NH-D15S as a CPU cooler&#8230;and that uses the 140mm Noctua NF-A15 so I'm worry that the 120mm fan in the rear will be the "week link", limiting my airflow (and by that my OC). I'm aiming for a silent idle/light use computer together with max/high performance while gaming (hopefully a Z270matx mb with a [email protected]). All in a small (at least not bigger then it have to be) high quality case!

Do you think I'm on the right track or are there any other case recommendations that fit my bill?


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> I'm considering doing my next build in a Fractal Design Define Mini C. Is it possible to fit a 140mm fan at the rear exhaust fan slot? Maybe a Noctua NF-A15 (it has 120mm mounting holes)?
> 
> I'm going for the Noctua NH-D15S as a CPU cooler&#8230;and that uses the 140mm Noctua NF-A15 so I'm worry that the 120mm fan in the rear will be the "week link", limiting my airflow (and by that my OC). I'm aiming for a silent idle/light use computer together with max/high performance while gaming (hopefully a Z270matx mb with a [email protected]). All in a small (at least not bigger then it have to be) high quality case!
> 
> Do you think I'm on the right track or are there any other case recommendations that fit my bill?


On the outside of the case, yeah, you can. On the inside, not so much. You'd need to cut part of the case to fit it in there. The fan presses agains the part of the frame that holds the I/O shield in place.


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> I'm considering doing my next build in a Fractal Design Define Mini C. Is it possible to fit a 140mm fan at the rear exhaust fan slot? Maybe a Noctua NF-A15 (it has 120mm mounting holes)?




Looks like no.







Also I don't see how a 120mm will limit your airflow considering there are vent holes above and under the 120mm fan.


----------



## infernoRS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> Post the temps and noise levels please.


Case: Define Mini C (no window)
CPU: i7 7700K
GPU: Asus Dual GTX 1070 OC
CPU cooler: Noctua NH-U12S (no ULN adapter)
Fans: stock
No overclocks (except Asus' stock OC clocks)

*Idle:*
CPU: 40-45ºC (104-113ºF)
GPU: 40-45ºC (104-113ºF)
Noise: slight case fan noise, not disturbing in any way without headphones. Fans are set to standard in BIOS settings.

*Battlefield 1 (Operations, 64 players, everything on ultra @ 1080 144hz):*
CPU: 70-75ºC (158-167ºF)
GPU: 75ºC (167ºF)
Noise: not noticeable with open back headphones while playing. Without them it's very noticeable; mostly because Asus' Dual fan is not silent in the first place.

*Prime95 + Furmark:*
CPU: 90ºC (194ºF)
GPU: 75ºC (167ºF)
Noise: very loud as expected. I should adjust the 1070's fan curve to make it more silent during normal use.

All in all, I'm pretty happy with it. I'll probably put some 140mm Noctua A14s or Fractal Venturis to the front at some point to impove the airflow and noise levels along with it. I'm also considering delidding the 7700K and replacing the stock toothpaste with Liquid Ultra to improve cpu temps. I'd love to replace the Asus stock fan, but it seems like there's no way to put anything aftermarket on the Dual pcb.


----------



## Starlet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> Looks like no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I don't see how a 120mm will limit your airflow considering there are vent holes above and under the 120mm fan.


Thanks for the replay,

I'm thinking that 2x140mm intake in the front of the case and 120mm exhaust in the rear is maybe a bit too unbalanced? I'm not sure, but I believe it´s god with a positive pressure in the case (to minimize dust infiltration) but this might be to mush? A rear 140mm feels better&#8230;

I also believe a fan works better pushing then pulling if there is some resistance. In this case the pressure build up is close to nothing, so it probably works! Look a bit stupid, I wish noctua made it in black. I don't really care how it looks inside the case (even thou I like it tidy), but if I mount the fan on the outside, it needs to be black! Any fan recommendations?


----------



## infernoRS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> I'm thinking that 2x140mm intake in the front of the case and 120mm exhaust in the rear is maybe a bit too unbalanced? I'm not sure, but I believe it´s god with a positive pressure in the case (to minimize dust infiltration) but this might be to mush? A rear 140mm feels better&#8230;


The case has other holes to push the excess airflow out. These fans are not industrial grade fans; the pressure build-up isn't harmful, it's the opposite actually, for the reason you said yourself (prevent dust from building up). I just got my Define Mini C and am definitely going to put two 140mm fans at the front to maximize the airflow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> Look a bit stupid, I wish noctua made it in black. I don't really care how it looks inside the case (even thou I like it tidy), but if I mount the fan on the outside, it needs to be black! Any fan recommendations?


Noctua Redux fans are not beige/brown. Also Fractal's own Venturi series fans are good.


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> Thanks for the replay


Well if you mount it outside it will still cover small part of the shield, so I don't know. ^^ Once I get the case, I was thinking of going with 3 NF-S12A PWM in the front and 1 NF-S12A PWM in the back. Also will use dual fan setup on the cpu cooler. 3 front ones will have much harder time pulling the air in due to filter and vents, than the 1 in the back will with pushing hot air out. Can always make back one spin faster. ^^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infernoRS*
> 
> Case: Define Mini C (no window)
> CPU: i7 7700K
> GPU: Asus Dual GTX 1070 OC
> CPU cooler: Noctua NH-U12S (no ULN adapter)
> Fans: stock
> No overclocks (except Asus' stock OC clocks)


I guess high temps and noise is due to your high end cpu and high end but dual fan gpu. I decided to go from air 240 to this case only coz of silence and gpu hight limit ^^, so hopefully results will be no where near yours. ^_^

Planning on doing 3 NF-S12A PWM in the front and 1 NF-S12A PWM in the back, with air cpu cooler for i5 4670 and with nitro rx470 gpu (nothing oc). Currently in the air 240, with the setup from my signiture ↓, I am getting idle 33c cpu and 42c gpu, soundless from 1 meter away. I was thinking this case will help me keep these noise levels in load too. Planning on strix gpu too, to help me achieve that. Just hoping in the end that it will perform better than the air 240, coz 100 euro is 100 euro.







I don't want to see that green bill go to waste.


----------



## WindOnFire

Would anyone be able to provide measurements for the front cut-out area (in mm) of the Define Mini C?



Also, the height from the case bottom (beneath the PSU shroud) to the underside of the graphics card (or second PCIE slot).



I'm just trying to gauge how much room there is to fit a pump/res combo.


----------



## RnRollie

Without being able to measure i can tell you that there is NOT a lot of room.
You may be able to fit a DDC with a flat/low res top OR use the pump/res combo with a special bracket which fits on/over the rear exhaust fan.. Check the EK store, they have one i think..


----------



## Starlet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like no.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I don't see how a 120mm will limit your airflow considering there are vent holes above and under the 120mm fan.


I think I have decided my next build now







. Unfortunately I need a ATX motherboard (I was hoping for mATX) so it will be a Fractal Design C with 3x NF-A15 in the front pulling air in to a 1x NF-A15 outside of the box at the back (I will dremel away what I can to make the fit as good as possible). The mesh will have to go too, since it will not do any good on the inner side of the fan (only create noise and hinder airflow). As CPU cooler the Noctua NH-D15S will blend in nice with its single NF-A15&#8230;

I hope 3x 140mm IN and 1x 140mm OUT will give me enough airflow for a 5GHz OC


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> (I will dremel away what I can to make the fit as good as possible)
> I hope 3x 140mm IN and 1x 140mm OUT will give me enough airflow for a 5GHz OC


Man you sure you wanna destroy that 100 euro case. ^_^ I would go with the r5 or S. ^^
Also you sure you can fit 3x NF-A15 in the front?


----------



## Starlet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> Man you sure you wanna destroy that 100 euro case. ^_^ I would go with the r5 or S. ^^
> Also you sure you can fit 3x NF-A15 in the front?


I like that the case is not so deep... the FD S is alot deeper...

Im reserching case fans now.... I cant get my head around if the front pull fans need to handel presure from filter and if it matters due to being on the pull side of the fan...

Amy recomendations on 3x140mm front fans?


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> I like that the case is not so deep... the FD S is alot deeper...
> 
> Im reserching case fans now.... I cant get my head around if the front pull fans need to handel presure from filter and if it matters due to being on the pull side of the fan...
> 
> Amy recomendations on 3x140mm front fans?


Well fractal wouldnt put that fan in front if it could handle the pressure. ^^ So I guess noctua would do fine. ^^

I Also wanted 140mm only in case, but man... those cases are huge... 55 liters+

Then I looked at define c and mini c. They both can hold only 3x 120mm in the front or 2x 140mm, so thats why I ordered mini version today. 35 liters should do just fine with airflow and silence, I guess. ^^


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WindOnFire*
> 
> Would anyone be able to provide measurements for the front cut-out area (in mm) of the Define Mini C?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the height from the case bottom (beneath the PSU shroud) to the underside of the graphics card (or second PCIE slot).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm just trying to gauge how much room there is to fit a pump/res combo.


Eyeballing, it's something like 14x12 for the cover and ~16cm height. I can do an accurate measurement when I get home from work, if no one else does it by then.


----------



## Loladinas

Alright, so it's ~145-150mm (there's a curve) wide,~135mm long and ~155mm tall.


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Alright, so it's ~145-150mm (there's a curve) wide,~135mm long and ~155mm tall.


Is there any way for 3x NF-A15 PWM to be placed in the front? or are we stuck with 3x120mm maximum.


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> Is there any way for 3x NF-A15 PWM to be placed in the front? or are we stuck with 3x120mm maximum.


On the Mini C? Yeah... The height of the case (feet included) is 412mm, now do the math why three 140mm wouldn't be a very good fit


----------



## SSWolf1993




----------



## Starlet

How about the ATX (non mini) C, is there room for 3x140mm? The case is suppose to be 440mm (feet excluded) so it shoud be posible! Can some one confirm?

3x150=450 so I guess 3xNF-A15 is out of the question...


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> How about the ATX (non mini) C, is there room for 3x140mm? The case is suppose to be 440mm (feet excluded) so it shoud be posible! Can some one confirm?
> 
> 3x150=450 so I guess 3xNF-A15 is out of the question...


If 3x NF-A15 can not fit than no other 140mm can fit, coz there are no holes at the bottom for 140mm fan.


----------



## Starlet

NF-A15 is 140x150mm, so they are 450mm all together. Standard 140mm fans are total 420mm so they might fit!?

And, holes can be drilled if need be









Edit: perhaps 2x140 + 150 = 430mm fit?


----------



## WindOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Without being able to measure i can tell you that there is NOT a lot of room.
> You may be able to fit a DDC with a flat/low res top OR use the pump/res combo with a special bracket which fits on/over the rear exhaust fan.. Check the EK store, they have one i think..


EK's DDC combo definitely would fit, but I'd rather their D5 even if its really tight.

I'd be using a 30mm thick rad + fans so really there needs to be a minimum of 135mm depth from the front and 160mm of height in order to get it in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Alright, so it's ~145-150mm (there's a curve) wide,~135mm long and ~155mm tall.


Thanks very much for doing those.

To clarify, were those measurements for the cover plate or for the actual gap (accounting for the lip)?


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> perhaps 2x140 + 150 = 430mm fit?


I would also like someone with Define C to clarify this.


----------



## Starlet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> I would also like someone with Define C to clarify this.


Another alternative is 2x140 + 120 = 400mm

So, pleace! Can someone messure the inside height in the front?


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> Another alternative is 2x140 + 120 = 400mm
> 
> So, pleace! Can someone messure the inside height in the front?




3x any fan larger than 120mm = impossible
2x 140mm + 120mm = impossible
140mm + 2x 120mm = possible


----------



## xx9e02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> I would also like someone with Define C to clarify this.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> Another alternative is 2x140 + 120 = 400mm
> 
> So, pleace! Can someone messure the inside height in the front?


using the image posted above... I measured 380mm (+/- a few because I'm bad) from the top of the uppermost 120mm cutout to the bottommost 120mm cutout for the Define C


----------



## SSWolf1993

I am going with mini C and all air coolers. Which setup would you guys choose and why?



*2x NF-A14 PWM*
_vs_
*3x NF-S12A PWM*


----------



## Lee0

If you can afford it I would go for the 3 fan setup instead. It looks better and covers more intake area however more fans will introduce more sound which is why you run them at lower speeds. Since 3 fans running at 20dB is 24.8 db. and 2 fans running at 25dB is 28dB ( I personally don't know how many dB the fans will produce, this was just an example).


----------



## Fractal Design

Those of you in the market for a Define Mini C might be interested to know the windowed version just went on sale for first time ever at Newegg where it's currently $69.99 with free shipping: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352065

On a side note, They've also now got both solid and window panel versions of the Nano S on sale at $44 and $49 respectively, lower than either have ever been before:

Define Nano S Solid - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352061

Define Nano S Window - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352062

Even PCPartPicker hasn't picked up on these yet so I figured some of you guys might appreciate the heads up.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> using the image posted above... I measured 380mm (+/- a few because I'm bad) from the top of the uppermost 120mm cutout to the bottommost 120mm cutout for the Define C


simple either drill a hole or dont have the bottom left screw at all, after all there 11 other screws or so holding on


----------



## SSWolf1993

Who are you talking to?


----------



## frostbite

whoever asked about the 3 120mm fans in the first place


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> whoever asked about the 3 120mm fans in the first place


Impossible, you can not drill a hole into air. Third 140mm fan can not be mounted.


----------



## JackCY

With a dremel and drill I'm sure I could fit 3x140mm if I really wanted to. No one says they cannot overlap or they have to be vertical.


----------



## Jyve

Fractal Design arc mini r2
*EK 360mm pe
*EK Revo d5 140 pump/res combo
*EK supremacy mx cpu block
*Bitspower full cover 980ti block


----------



## FilthyMonkey

Just put this nano-s together last night. My goal was cool and quiet. The nh-d15's second 150mm doesn't fit on the asus 270i due to the 24 pin ATX and other hookups. A 120mm fits though. I have the stock fractal design fan there right now, but will replace it with another noctua once it gets here. I need maximum noctuaness.


Went with a sf600 with silverstone mounting bracket to give the GPU more breathing room. It requires extension cables, but no biggie.


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> I am going with mini C and all air coolers. Which setup would you guys choose and why?
> 
> 
> 
> *2x NF-A14 PWM*
> _vs_
> *3x NF-S12A PWM*


I had 2 x NF-A14 on the front but I recently replaced them with 2 x Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 (pwm). I made it for aesthetical purpose but i found that they are even more silent in the same rpm range. Didn't try 3 x 120 though


----------



## Bumtsiki

Did a little mod for my R5 case


----------



## DyndaS

@up

Glass? Acrylic?


----------



## Jyve

Looks acrylic.


----------



## Starlet

Is it possible to remove the chamber that divides the PSU and HDDs from the rest of the case in the Define C (non Mini)? The lowest intake fan will try to blow a lot of air in that compartment and since I don’t have any HDDs it won’t cool anything. The PSU will take its air from underneath right?


----------



## Bumtsiki

It is acrylic, maybe in the future will make glass panel but for now it´s all good


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> Is it possible to remove the chamber that divides the PSU and HDDs from the rest of the case in the Define C (non Mini)? The lowest intake fan will try to blow a lot of air in that compartment and since I don't have any HDDs it won't cool anything. The PSU will take its air from underneath right?


The PSU shroud itself isn't removable, but it does have a fairly large panel at the front you can take out to open up that space for a bottom air intake. Mounting the PSU with the intake facing downward is the typical setup, but there are vents in the shroud so you can face it upward if you so choose.


----------



## SavageBrat

A Node 804 anyone..


----------



## Spongeboy5040

Hey guys, finally retiring my X79 rig. Going matx/ryzen. Looking to keep my GPU set up for the time being though. That said. Anyone know if the 68mm of rad/fan thickness that is the Ek predator will fit in the front of a define C mini?


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeboy5040*
> 
> Hey guys, finally retiring my X79 rig. Going matx/ryzen. Looking to keep my GPU set up for the time being though. That said. Anyone know if the 68mm of rad/fan thickness that is the Ek predator will fit in the front of a define C mini?


Depends on the GPU length. I had to mount my intake fans outside of the case, but my GPU cooler is ridiculously large. Otherwise there's like 75-80mm of space, before you start covering the cutouts for cables, and ~135mm before you start overlapping the motherboard.


----------



## Spongeboy5040

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Depends on the GPU length. I had to mount my intake fans outside of the case, but my GPU cooler is ridiculously large. Otherwise there's like 75-80mm of space, before you start covering the cutouts for cables, and ~135mm before you start overlapping the motherboard.


my GPU is 10.5" long.


----------



## Scotty99

Wish the mini c came in a blackout edition, i smoke and ill stain those white ones within a month haha. Still on the fence between it and a s340 elite.


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Wish the mini c came in a blackout edition, i smoke and ill stain those white ones within a month haha. Still on the fence between it and a s340 elite.


s340 - better looking
mini c - much better sound isolation

easy choice


----------



## BoboK

Could someone with a Define Mini measure the total height of the 2 HDD cages in the case. I'm thinking of buying this model and modding the hardrive cages.

Thank you!


----------



## Step83

New Core 500 owner, no photos yet I'm waiting on a retention bracket so I can cool the CPU.

Turns out though I can slide a Thermalright Truespirit in, you cant plug the graphics card in though









List of toys in the box

AMD Athlon X4 860K
GigaByte F2A88XN-WIFI
arctic liquid freezer 120 (needs retention clip)
16Gb Kingston HyperX Beast
MSI AMD R480
Sandisk 240Gb SSD
Crucial M5 240Gb SSD
1TB mechanical drive
Corsair SF600


----------



## Scotty99

Fractal.

If you guys did a blackout edition of the define C (or mini C) with a tempered glass side panel, that would be the best selling case on the market hands down.

DO IT.


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Step83*
> 
> New Core 500 owner, no photos yet I'm waiting on a retention bracket so I can cool the CPU.
> 
> Turns out though I can slide a Thermalright Truespirit in, you cant plug the graphics card in though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> List of toys in the box
> 
> AMD Athlon X4 860K
> GigaByte F2A88XN-WIFI
> arctic liquid freezer 120 (needs retention clip)
> 16Gb Kingston HyperX Beast
> MSI AMD R480
> Sandisk 240Gb SSD
> Crucial M5 240Gb SSD
> 1TB mechanical drive
> Corsair SF600


what do you mean you cant plug in the gfx card?

did you remove the top rad/ fan bracket?


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> what do you mean you cant plug in the gfx card?
> 
> did you remove the top rad/ fan bracket?


Yes that came out, issue was the coolers so wide (155mm) it goes out past the PCIe slot past the edge of the motherboard, if I didnt want a dedicated graphics card it would have been fine, to be fair it looked pretty dam good in there just a shame its too wide an theres no kit to rotate the cooler.


----------



## frostbite

Wow that is a shame, I thought you couldnt plug the pcie connector in


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoboK*
> 
> Could someone with a Define Mini measure the total height of the 2 HDD cages in the case. I'm thinking of buying this model and modding the hardrive cages.
> 
> Thank you!


The bottom HDD cage is 140mm from the case floor (126mm not counting the mounting assembly for the 2nd cage), and the two cages together total about 267mm (257mm not counting the top screw flange and interlocking parts on top).


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Fractal.
> 
> If you guys did a blackout edition of the define C (or mini C) with a tempered glass side panel, that would be the best selling case on the market hands down.
> 
> DO IT.


Tempered glass is a hot request for sure but you're actually the first I've heard ask for a Blackout version of the Define C series. That is an interesting idea though. We'll see what we can do.


----------



## Xaltar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Tempered glass is a hot request for sure but you're actually the first I've heard ask for a Blackout version of the Define C series. That is an interesting idea though. We'll see what we can do.


I second that, blacked out Tempered glass on the Define C would be great. I would also love to see it on the Define S with the option to purchase the panel if you already own the case


----------



## RnRollie

I'ld go a step further... double paned glass with a led-string between the panes... THAT would give a nice infinity mirror effect


----------



## Volkswagen

Yes Tempered glass for Define S Owners- sign me up please


----------



## Dan-H

Newegg has the R5 black with window for $80 with free shipping.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624540/newegg-fractal-design-define-r5-black-window-silent-atx-midtower-computer-case-80/0_30


----------



## daywalk3r314

hi,

Just wonder if anyone has fitted a 360 64mm radiator+ 25mm fan, in Define S or C and if that would bring any problems?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-rad-xtx-360

Becuase i was wondering if i would fit a 240/280mm radiator later.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daywalk3r314*
> 
> hi,
> 
> Just wonder if anyone has fitted a 360 64mm radiator+ 25mm fan, in Define S or C and if that would bring any problems?
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-rad-xtx-360
> 
> Becuase i was wondering if i would fit a 240/280mm radiator later.


To my knowledge if you're going with two 360s you'll be limited to 55mm thick radiators. Though if you wanted to go with a slim(ish) 360 up top and a thick 280/240 in the front for the Define S i don't think it would be a problem. As far as incorporating two 360mm rads the EK PEs will fit. You can also probably go a tad thicker in front if mount the intake fans on the outside of the case in between the front cover and the chassis itself.


----------



## Step83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> Wow that is a shame, I thought you couldnt plug the pcie connector in


Oh if only, still not got it running had great fun with an AIO, its an older Asetek one I had on an old GPU, bought a bracket to mount it to the CPU all happy, turned it on an it sounded like an airlock, lots of shaking later still there left it a couple hours running rad at the top etc no change.

Long story short its knackered impeller is rattling so I have a little Noctua which is meant to be here now. Showing delivered but no actual idea where signed for by a mysterious "X"


----------



## sfbayboater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Tempered glass is a hot request for sure but you're actually the first I've heard ask for a Blackout version of the Define C series. That is an interesting idea though. We'll see what we can do.


@Fractal Design

I think you should always offer a black out version or at least offer a black out kit that can be purchased as well. I've used multiple Fractal cases and the first I have to do is paint the pcie slot covers and HD trays, as well as swap the fans for all black fans. I just received my Define Mini C and I will spend time this weekend to paint those parts.


----------



## fleetfeather

Would also be on a waiting list for a tempered glass side panel option for the Nano S; tempered glass is the only sort of 'window material' that interests me these days.


----------



## UnkleTickles

I'd be super happy to have the opportunity to buy a blacked-out tempered glass Define C. Even if it was just a regular tempered glass version and not blacked-out I'd absolutely buy it. I'm currently building my first pc and my choice of cases have been basically narrowed to the Phanteks S340 Elite and the Define C. However, the S340 is ahead exclusively because of the scratch-resistant and much more attractive tempered glass panel. The case is the last thing that I will buy simply because I want to be able to have the largest pool of choices available as possible, aka a Define C Tempered Glass Edition. I highly doubt that I am speaking for the minority here judging by the market trends that I've seen. Literally EVERYBODY loves the Define series and the upsides of tempered glass outweigh the downsides of tempered glass for a very large, and at least a very significantly large portion of the market base. I see no reason why you can't produce the Q variant, the current Windowed variant and the Tempered Glass variant, which all will have different amounts of silence (marketing) and price points. I'd be very surprised if your sales haven't regressed or stagnated noticeably since the tempered glass case market enthusiasm hit vs. companies that have embraced the tempered glass case market enthusiasm. Literally every case review that I read lists tempered glass as a plus, despite the small price increase, and acrylic windows as a negative.


----------



## SteelBox

Where can I buy red led diode for Define R5? Default blue led is to bright.


----------



## Vovchic

First build in Fractal Design cases - Define Mini C. Great value for 80$.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelBox*
> 
> Where can I buy red led diode for Define R5? Default blue led is to bright.


not sure about the R5 but on my R2 i was able to take the front cover off and replace the diode color pretty easily with some soldering. its all custom work.


----------



## SteelBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> not sure about the R5 but on my R2 i was able to take the front cover off and replace the diode color pretty easily with some soldering. its all custom work.


Where can I buy prewired red led diode? Do I need to care for diode voltages or? This is unknown area to me, I just want to replace it by the simpliest way possible...


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelBox*
> 
> Where can I buy prewired red led diode? Do I need to care for diode voltages or? This is unknown area to me, I just want to replace it by the simpliest way possible...


i doubt you can buy pre wired other then having some leads already solder on but they would have to be connected to the led cable that goes to the motherboard. shouldnt have to worry about voltage as that circuit is already set up to power an led. just go get some 3mm led diodes in the color you like. make sure you know the polarity and solder it on.


----------



## Spencer25

About Define Mini C, do You guys think that a 2.5 hdd (mechanical one, not ssd) will fit inside the 2.5 brackets (side panel). I am planning to use a bottom fan, so I will have to remove the hdd cage and I need to use a normal hdd for storing purpose. Ssd with big storage are way too expensive now and I don't need so much performance for those files. I already have an m2 ssd (120gb) for system and a 500gb 850 evo for programs. I was thinking of buying a 2.5 7200rpm hdd for storing purpose only and to place it inside the side panel within the other ssd.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spencer25*
> 
> About Define Mini C, do You guys think that a 2.5 hdd (mechanical one, not ssd) will fit inside the 2.5 brackets (side panel). I am planning to use a bottom fan, so I will have to remove the hdd cage and I need to use a normal hdd for storing purpose. Ssd with big storage are way too expensive now and I don't need so much performance for those files. I already have an m2 ssd (120gb) for system and a 500gb 850 evo for programs. I was thinking of buying a 2.5 7200rpm hdd for storing purpose only and to place it inside the side panel within the other ssd.


If your 2.5" HDD is more than 10mm in height then it will most likely conflict with the side panel if you try to mount it behind the motherboard. If you plan on installing an HDD, it might be best to go ahead and leave the HDD cage in place. It would take up the bottom fan position, but you can still install a 120mm fan in the bottom-most position of the front panel. Alternatively, if you have an available slot on your motherboard, there are adapters available to connect 2.5" HDDs via PCIE (example: https://www.amazon.com/Express-Adapter-Circuit-connector-included/dp/B01452SP1O/), or even just use the slot as a physical mount (example: https://www.amazon.com/Funtin-Adapter-Internal-Drive-Mounting/dp/B0158YMSJI).


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> If your 2.5" HDD is more than 10mm in height then it will most likely conflict with the side panel if you try to mount it behind the motherboard. If you plan on installing an HDD, it might be best to go ahead and leave the HDD cage in place. It would take up the bottom fan position, but you can still install a 120mm fan in the bottom-most position of the front panel. Alternatively, if you have an available slot on your motherboard, there are adapters available to connect 2.5" HDDs via PCIE (example: https://www.amazon.com/Express-Adapter-Circuit-connector-included/dp/B01452SP1O/), or even just use the slot as a physical mount (example: https://www.amazon.com/Funtin-Adapter-Internal-Drive-Mounting/dp/B0158YMSJI).


Thank You for Your reply. The 2.5 hdd is 9,9 x 7 x 1 cm so it should be the same identical size of a normal 2.5 ssd. I am unsure if the screw holes are the same but I guess so. Perhaps I don't think It would be possbile to install another fan in the front panel because I'm planning to use 2 x140 fans...


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spencer25*
> 
> Thank You for Your reply. The 2.5 hdd is 9,9 x 7 x 1 cm so it should be the same identical size of a normal 2.5 ssd. I am unsure if the screw holes are the same but I guess so. Perhaps I don't think It would be possbile to install another fan in the front panel because I'm planning to use 2 x140 fans...


Sounds like SSD mounts on the back should work just fine for you then. You're right about the fans though. There's space for 3 x 120mm, but with 140mm there's not quite room for a third fan in the front panel.


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Sounds like SSD mounts on the back should work just fine for you then. You're right about the fans though. There's space for 3 x 120mm, but with 140mm there's not quite room for a third fan in the front panel.


If it will not fit nicely I will place it somewhere else with a bit of velcro, it is only 100 grams, by the way. I could even swap the 2x140 fans for 3x120 fans. Would I be able to use the 3.5 hdd cage with this setup? I was thinking that, in order to install 3x120 fans, it would be necessary to remove the hdd cage and its top cover... maybe I was wrong


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spencer25*
> 
> If it will not fit nicely I will place it somewhere else with a bit of velcro, it is only 100 grams, by the way. I could even swap the 2x140 fans for 3x120 fans. Would I be able to use the 3.5 hdd cage with this setup? I was thinking that, in order to install 3x120 fans, it would be necessary to remove the hdd cage and its top cover... maybe I was wrong


Yes, the position of the HDD cage is adjustable anywhere up to about 70mm further back from its default position, so there's plenty of room to install 3 fans in the front if you move it back just a little bit. You will still need to remove the cover on the shroud though.


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Yes, the position of the HDD cage is adjustable anywhere up to about 70mm further back from its default position, so there's plenty of room to install 3 fans in the front if you move it back just a little bit. You will still need to remove the cover on the shroud though.


Thank You again, I will then reconsider my fans setup very soon. This a very beautiful and a well done pc case. I am building a x99 matx just to be able to use define mini c


----------



## arcadeforest

I have a question about the Define C that I hope someone can answer. I'm looking at my first build since 2010 and I'm currently using a Lancool K-7 (Lian Li) case. This build will be my first that will have a window. Its been killing me trying to decide on a case but I think I have it down to either the Define C or the NZXT S340 Elite. I'm having a hard time and its really coming down to the plastic window vs. tempered glass window. To be honest I love everything about the Define C (size, looks, sound proofing, cable management, finished build look, etc) but I keep going back to the window. If Fractal had glass on these I would have bought it already. In reality this may be a piss poor / shallow reason to hesitate because I like everything else about it. Anyways to my question short of Fractal coming out with a glass option in the next few weeks is there a way to easily remove the plastic window (without damage) and have a piece of glass clipped back into its place? I do not mind it being a metal door with a center window (compared to a full glass side as the s340 elite). One video review I saw mentioned that the plastic was just clipped into place but could not really tell how / if that is actually the case. With that said any close up pictures or explanations would be greatly appreciated. Who knows - I may get this and be perfectly fine with the plastic window and move forward without a care (until Fractal eventually does release a glass one). As I've mentioned I've never had a windowed case so I have nothing to go on (except every reviewer out there gushing over how great tempered glass looks in comparison to plastic). Thanks.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Planning out my next build and I am going with the Nano S. At the front of the case I am hoping to use a Corsair H80i v2 in push pull in the top fan location. Would I be able to utilize a 140mm fan below that, or would I be limited to a second 120mm fan?


----------



## witnaaay

Hey guys, don't know if this is relevant to this topic but I have modified my Fractal Core 1000 to fit two 140 mm fans in the front.



It's a pretty tight fit, but everything except for the USB 3.0 port fits. There's even enough room to use a single 5.25 inch bay,






I've made other changes, mostly to try and cram in some more hard drives as well as a big hard drive. This is the basis for my Ryzen 1700 Build.


----------



## SteelBox

Would this one work? I need two of these, for power and hdd led...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> i doubt you can buy pre wired other then having some leads already solder on but they would have to be connected to the led cable that goes to the motherboard. shouldnt have to worry about voltage as that circuit is already set up to power an led. just go get some 3mm led diodes in the color you like. make sure you know the polarity and solder it on.[/quoted]


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteelBox*
> 
> Would this one work? I need two of these, for power and hdd led...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> i doubt you can buy pre wired other then having some leads already solder on but they would have to be connected to the led cable that goes to the motherboard. shouldnt have to worry about voltage as that circuit is already set up to power an led. just go get some 3mm led diodes in the color you like. make sure you know the polarity and solder it on.[/quoted]
> 
> 
> 
> I think that may work but the issue is mainly the white plug where the led is may be too big or get in the way. But that is pretty close to what you need.
Click to expand...


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witnaaay*
> 
> Hey guys, don't know if this is relevant to this topic but I have modified my Fractal Core 1000 to fit two 140 mm fans in the front.
> 
> It's a pretty tight fit, but everything except for the USB 3.0 port fits. There's even enough room to use a single 5.25 inch bay,
> 
> I've made other changes, mostly to try and cram in some more hard drives as well as a big hard drive. This is the basis for my Ryzen 1700 Build.


That's pretty cool. I always love Core 1000 mods in general, but I've got to say I'm really liking the way it looks with the large white dual fans behind the black mesh. If this case every gets a sequel we should totally do something like this.

Just curious, what's the purpose of the SSD packaging you've got cut to fit around the top fan?


----------



## SclerosiS

A little update:


----------



## arcadeforest

Well after a little over a month of killing myself going back and forth between 4-5 different cases I pulled the trigger (or pressed the enter key in my Amazon shopping cart) on the Define C. Looking forward to giving this case a go - never had a case with a window so it should be interesting. Now with that said I imagine Fractal Design will be announcing a tempered glass version in the next few weeks







.


----------



## ZippyO

Do you guys have experience with the several Fractal Design fans? How loud are they compared to some other common fans out there?


----------



## arcadeforest

No experience here as this is my first Fractal case. I have a new set of be quiet silent wings 3 fans that I plan on using with this (two 140's and a 120).


----------



## Transmaniacon

Finally upgraded my old Sandy Bridge machine, built a new Z270 ITX system in the Nano S, using a 7700K, Asus Strix Board, and 16GB of Corsair Dominator DDR4-3200 RAM. I plan to add a 1080Ti and possibly an AIO cooler in the near future.

The Nano S was a dream to work with, it's my first Fractal case and the build quality is excellent. Cable management was a breeze, and I am very happy with the build.


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Do you guys have experience with the several Fractal Design fans? How loud are they compared to some other common fans out there?


I have just tested the Dynamic X2 GP-12 fans which come with Define Mini C. I am very satisfied with them. The rotation range is wide (350/1200) about and they are virtually inaudible within 700 rpm.
I did compare them with my other four fans which are two Be.QuietSilent Wings 3 (140mm pwm high speed) and two Pure Wings 2 (120mm) which come with Silent Loop 240. I can tell You that the Fractal ones are a bit more noiseless at the same rpm range but they move less air too.
If I could come back, I would probably avoid to buy the two Silent Wings 3 and I would buy 2 other Fractal 14 cms fans (x2-GP14) which are way cheaper. I'm not saying that the Fractal ones are superior to the Be.Quiet fans but I was guessing that the difference would have been bigger.
In reply to Your question, they are good quality fans, very well suited to be used as case fans. Feel free to ask, if You need further details


----------



## ZippyO

Thank you very much.
I am currently looking for some good silent fans in white which do not cost me a fortune - and the ones from fractal design seemed to be quite well fitting for that.

Or do you guys have any other suggestions?

Gesendet von meinem SHIELD Tablet K1 mit Tapatalk


----------



## Spencer25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Thank you very much.
> I am currently looking for some good silent fans in white which do not cost me a fortune - and the ones from fractal design seemed to be quite well fitting for that.
> 
> Or do you guys have any other suggestions?
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SHIELD Tablet K1 mit Tapatalk


Do You already have the pc case? What is Your planned cooling setup (fans, radiator...)?


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Thank you very much.
> I am currently looking for some good silent fans in white which do not cost me a fortune - and the ones from fractal design seemed to be quite well fitting for that.
> 
> Or do you guys have any other suggestions?
> 
> Gesendet von meinem SHIELD Tablet K1 mit Tapatalk


Phanteks F140HP's come in white, perform better than any Noctua equivalent at nearly half the price.

Review conclusion here: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html


----------



## ZippyO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spencer25*
> 
> Do You already have the pc case? What is Your planned cooling setup (fans, radiator...)?


Yeah, I already have the case, an In Win 303 (I know, I am kind of poaching in this thread right here because of the fractal design fans)









3 Pull Air from the bottom, one pushes out the back an 3 push out on the top. No radiators, just Air-cooled.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Yeah, I already have the case, an In Win 303 (I know, I am kind of poaching in this thread right here because of the fractal design fans)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 Pull Air from the bottom, one pushes out the back an 3 push out on the top. No radiators, just Air-cooled.


I'm not sure if Fractal's Dynamic Series fans are now different from those from last year.. but I found them first to be really quiet but then also 100% useless as in literally no temp difference when I added 2 to my Define S. Their RPM also came down quite a bit when closing the front of the case and more when adding the fan filter. They had real issues overcoming any kind of resistance.

Fractal took note of that last year when people including myself mentioned that, but I don't know if they already sell a better fan that can compete. Their Venturi fan comes out really well in tests, but I don't think it comes in white. It's a pressure optimised fan and unless needing specific airflow, I would always go for a pressure fan.

Your best help would be I think sites such as thermalbench or the fan test thread here on overclock that tests in a realistic type of setup on a CPU cooler or radiator, so you know the performance vs noise stacks up when there's some airflow resistance. Then it's just finding one that has that combo of decent performance, white scheme and decent price.

Good luck with your build & fan decision. I'll be moving to a 303 as well - but then watercooled with low rpm fans.


----------



## Spencer25

This is the rpm range of fractal dynamic x2 gp-12

Very silent but it doesn't move a lot of air (bad air pressure too)

This is the rpm range of Silent Wings 3 140 pwm high speed

I have tested them again and more carefully. They move a lot of air and have a very good air pressure. They were more noisy but after one day they became pretty silent (can't explain why)

I'm posting the following picture because I was unsure if a normal hdd (2.5) could be placed inside the ssd mounting bracket. It does fit very well indeed


If You are going to use a top 240mm radiator with Define C or Define Mini C, max ram height is 41 mm, 44mm height rams (Trident Z Rgb) don't fit. My radiator is 30mm height.


----------



## arcadeforest

Just received my Define C in the mail from Amazon. From my initial inspection this case is everything I hoped it would be. Feels solid, nice and compact, minimal yet high end looking at the same time. Excited to build in this, hated to leave it in the bag and boxed back up but will not be ready for another few weeks.


----------



## witnaaay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> That's pretty cool. I always love Core 1000 mods in general, but I've got to say I'm really liking the way it looks with the large white dual fans behind the black mesh. If this case every gets a sequel we should totally do something like this.
> 
> Just curious, what's the purpose of the SSD packaging you've got cut to fit around the top fan?


Hey, sorry for late response.

The cardboard (now painted black) is used to prevent air from escaping from the front of the case and then being sucked back in by the front intake fans. With this many intake fans, the case has a reasonable positive pressure and I wanted to keep air moving from front through to back. I also blocked the side intake for the same reason.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *witnaaay*
> 
> Hey, sorry for late response.
> 
> The cardboard (now painted black) is used to prevent air from escaping from the front of the case and then being sucked back in by the front intake fans. With this many intake fans, the case has a reasonable positive pressure and I wanted to keep air moving from front through to back. I also blocked the side intake for the same reason.


That makes sense. It's kind of like DIY ModuVents in a roundabout sort of way.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Oh by the way, for anyone interested, I saw this morning that the Define R5 TI windowed version is suddenly $40 off at Newegg. There was a $40 off special on the black version earlier, but I recall it sold out like 3 hours into Newegg's week long sale. We shipped more as fast as we could, and then that sold out again. Hopefully they're stocked up


Looked for it, but all I see is the regular price and it's sold out, so I guess they weren't ready.
Linky


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Looked for it, but all I see is the regular price and it's sold out, so I guess they weren't ready.
> Linky


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Looked for it, but all I see is the regular price and it's sold out, so I guess they weren't ready.
> Linky


Well that was odd. Apparently Chrome cached a partially written post from a prior visit and just decided to toss it in there with an unrelated reply just a moment ago. Let me go ahead and clean that up right quick. My bad.


----------



## GraveNoX

Just got the Define R5 white and it's amazing except the quality of the cables is very very poor, very thin and ugly cables, even the cable from the 2 fans is just bad, the R5 fans are in the Noctua price category and they come with such cables, it's a disappointment. Only the USB 3.0 is good, all the other cables in this case, are like the cables from a 20$ case. Even my old Zalman Z9+ had way better cables.
Pretty sad they needed to cut the costs in this area.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> That makes sense. It's kind of like DIY ModuVents in a roundabout sort of way.


Had to do the same in Define Nano and Define S when mounting fans or rads in the front... the air takes the path of least resistance.. which is to circle around for one more go  Especially in 120mm. Always had to tape and use carton to block that off.


----------



## fleetfeather

Just a heads up to the FD rep:

The front intake filters on the Nano (and I assume other cases) could benefit by being completely magnetically secured to the chassis rather than using magnets on one side and little plastic tabs that slot into the structure of the case on the other side.

The reason why the little plastic tabs are less desirable is because they can interfere with fan blades or non-square fan frames secured to the front intake position.


----------



## Zhuni

Had so many fractal cases. Love um! Been using a phantek for last 6 months and it's too big for my deskt. Saw the define c. Awesome deisgn. Utterly superb! Bought!


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zhuni*
> 
> Had so many fractal cases. Love um! Been using a phantek for last 6 months and it's too big for my deskt. Saw the define c. Awesome deisgn. Utterly superb! Bought!


I'm getting a Define C mini tomorrow. No a lot taller than my Jonsbo W1, far more practical and nicer than the ThermalTake Core V21, slimmer, as short... And two 140mm front fan...

I'm eager to put my build in it, and make my Morpheus Mk2 breath again ?


----------



## Zhuni

Just noticed a few people on the last page mention windows. These days i don't think there should be any acrylic anymore. Just glass. So +1 to that! However I personally prefer the super minimal look of solid panels with the inside super well done. So when you take the panel of you get that wow moment


----------



## arcadeforest

I agree - first build since 2010 and my first with a window. Went into this process full steam with the intention to get a case with tempered glass. Looked at the usual suspects from Phanteks, NZXT, Lian Li, In Win, Corsair, etc. In the end I always kept coming back to the Define-C. Overall size, look, cable management, functionality, etc kept pulling me in but I hesitated due to the acrylic window. It really was an agonizing decision but I'm glad I got it as it looks just about perfect (the windowed door looks really nice but glass would indeed put this at another level). Hopefully if they do make glass an option they will follow the lead of be quiet and their pure base 600 which offers a glass panel (for sale) to those already owning the case. Getting ready to put my build together this weekend - can't wait.


----------



## GeneO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zhuni*
> 
> Had so many fractal cases. Love um! Been using a phantek for last 6 months and it's too big for my deskt. Saw the define c. Awesome deisgn. Utterly superb! Bought!


Just built a 'puter for my wife with a C. Great design and the cable management is superb (this coming from an R3 and an R4).
Very pleased with it.


----------



## Euskafreez

Hello everyone,

I just bought a R5 since I had to replace my HAF932. My NH-D15 SE-AM4 didn't fit in my HAF with the sidepanel fan on







.

Now starts my air cooling quest. How much fans do I need to have a crazy good air flow without hearing a thing -or much-? From Noctua I have 4 120mm and 2 140mm.


----------



## frostbite

I have no intake fans, just exhaust
I dont have an ounce of dust in the case due to the negative pressure, the dust cant settle (some people beg to differ)

It doesn't always work and you have to experiment for trial and error for the best temps


----------



## Euskafreez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I have no intake fans, just exhaust
> I dont have an ounce of dust in the case due to the negative pressure, the dust cant settle (some people beg to differ)
> 
> It doesn't always work and you have to experiment for trial and error for the best temps


Cheers for your quick answer mate. I don't care about dust at all. I have an air compressor at home







. I guess I'll try a bit of everything.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I have no intake fans, just exhaust
> I dont have an ounce of dust in the case due to the negative pressure, the dust cant settle (some people beg to differ)
> 
> It doesn't always work and you have to experiment for trial and error for the best temps


Same setup here: 420 + 280 both exhaust. No filters but the case doesn't sit on the floor..
My fans usually run at 500rpm and spin up to 700 in games, yet very little dust. I think it's because the front (intake) naturally gets little dust.
I could have gone all intake too but I didn't want to suck in dust from the top and bottom where it's much more likely to settle.

The all exhaust setup was essential for temperatures as my air exhaust temperature is within a degree of the water temperature. The whole 1 rad intake + 1 rad exhaust that everybody seem to choose makes no sense in a low rpm setup because the 2nd rad wouldn't cool the water at all.


----------



## DyndaS

Mine Define C AC build


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Euskafreez*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I just bought a R5 since I had to replace my HAF932. My NH-D15 SE-AM4 didn't fit in my HAF with the sidepanel fan on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Now starts my air cooling quest. How much fans do I need to have a crazy good air flow without hearing a thing -or much-? From Noctua I have 4 120mm and 2 140mm.


Howdy howdy, welcome to the club! I'd recommend putting the 2 140mm fans in front as intake and using a 140mm fan as exhaust if you have one handy, if not then a 120mm for exhaust would be fine too.

Also, if you're not using a 5.25" drive at all, remove that cage and install 3 good 140mm fans in intake








That's how mine is setup and that front-to-back airflow is amazing! Also, good tip is to remove the 1 or 2 PCIe slot covers immediately below your graphics card if you have an aftermarket cooler on it (as in, not the reference blower type cooler).


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraveNoX*
> 
> Just got the Define R5 white and it's amazing except the quality of the cables is very very poor, very thin and ugly cables, even the cable from the 2 fans is just bad, the R5 fans are in the Noctua price category and they come with such cables, it's a disappointment. Only the USB 3.0 is good, all the other cables in this case, are like the cables from a 20$ case. Even my old Zalman Z9+ had way better cables.
> Pretty sad they needed to cut the costs in this area.


I'm sorry you feel that way, but I totally see where you're coming from. The choice to use ribbon cables instead of sleeved wasn't so much about cost as it was ease of concealment though. In my experience the thicker sleeved cables can really start to add up behind the back panel when you start adding more fans, whereas the thin ribbons can still practically disappear into the edges of the chassis with the right tie-down points. However I suppose it's a trade-off between the thinner ribbon cable being easier to manage and hide vs. the sleeved cable being easier to look at wherever it can't be hidden. Maybe there could be a better way to get best of both worlds. We should look into that. Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Just a heads up to the FD rep:
> 
> The front intake filters on the Nano (and I assume other cases) could benefit by being completely magnetically secured to the chassis rather than using magnets on one side and little plastic tabs that slot into the structure of the case on the other side.
> 
> The reason why the little plastic tabs are less desirable is because they can interfere with fan blades or non-square fan frames secured to the front intake position.


It seems the fan would almost have to be larger than 140mm for blades to interfere with the filter tabs, but I can see where there could be potential conflicts with the frame on wider than normal 140mm fans. Is there a particular model fan where you know this to be an issue with the Nano S?


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> It seems the fan would almost have to be larger than 140mm for blades to interfere with the filter tabs, but I can see where there could be potential conflicts with the frame on wider than normal 140mm fans. Is there a particular model fan where you know this to be an issue with the Nano S?


Well, 140mm fan frames with 150mm fan blades might be an issue too, but my experiences are based off using a pair of Phanteks 140mm fans with 120mm mounting holes (in this instance, the model is F140FP)


----------



## HZCH

A potato pic to say I've come back to Fractal Design, with a Define Mini C window edition. What a sensible case after the oversized ThermalTake V21...

All I have to do now is 1) try to plug the lower 140mm intake fan so it runs like the GPU fans; 2) change the 120mm gpu fans to see if the harmonic noise dissappear... 3) remove the last pci slot covers and check for airflow going out of the back of the case as intended 4) replug the IO cables because I have to press the reset button to start ?


----------



## Euskafreez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Howdy howdy, welcome to the club! I'd recommend putting the 2 140mm fans in front as intake and using a 140mm fan as exhaust if you have one handy, if not then a 120mm for exhaust would be fine too.
> 
> Also, if you're not using a 5.25" drive at all, remove that cage and install 3 good 140mm fans in intake
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's how mine is setup and that front-to-back airflow is amazing! Also, good tip is to remove the 1 or 2 PCIe slot covers immediately below your graphics card if you have an aftermarket cooler on it (as in, not the reference blower type cooler).












Unfortunately I still can't get rid of the trusted optical drive yet. It useless until that one single time ...









Anyhow I played with as much configuration as I could. The results? First I did not sleep much







but coming from a nearly silent HAF932 with damn good air flow my expectations were high, too high I'd say.
At first I ditched the Fractal fans out. Unfortunately the case was not silent at all. The reason? The two old NF-P12 plugged to the built-in rheobus made too much noise. Unlike the Fractal fans they spin a little more. They just can't get down to that sweet little spot of theirs. That's when I decided to give a shot to the Fractal fans. With 1000rpm written on them, no surprise they work in silence. From then on I just had to regulate one fan after the other in the bios, a custom PWM profile at the time. Ain't perfect for gaming yet since I could improve the temperature by editing the PWM profile of both side-panel and bottom fan.

Here are some "raw" pictures -yes my GTX970 sags too much








- :
http://reho.st/view/self/4f320c47ef8e657fb7368615d9828f37bf9da5b8.jpg
http://reho.st/view/self/d33082d397cb7374a6adfa2dfebaae6ec7a901a1.jpg
http://reho.st/view/self/c9bf054a7a01848131a715087759d4526ea2e4bc.jpg

Overall? Good stuff







!

But they could have done a bit better by:

giving mounts for both 140 *AND* 120mm fans up top. 140mm only out of the box, you can't mount a 120mm but it bends the top of the case slightly though.
Enhancing the moduvent system. It's a good idea as of now but looks unfinished. Try to get the ones at the top with 2 fans on. Making the case 2.5cm taller would give enough clearance and an easier maintenance. And they could have made them magnetic with some kind of washer option. Wants to both moduvents and fans? Just put the moduvents on with some kind of magnetic washer to have enough noise insulation and clearance for air intake.


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Euskafreez*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I still can't get rid of the trusted optical drive yet. It useless until that one single time ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow I played with as much configuration as I could. The results? First I did not sleep much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but coming from a nearly silent HAF932 with damn good air flow my expectations were high, too high I'd say.
> At first I ditched the Fractal fans out. Unfortunately the case was not silent at all. The reason? The two old NF-P12 plugged to the built-in rheobus made too much noise. Unlike the Fractal fans they spin a little more. They just can't get down to that sweet little spot of theirs. That's when I decided to give a shot to the Fractal fans. With 1000rpm written on them, no surprise they work in silence. From then on I just had to regulate one fan after the other in the bios, a custom PWM profile at the time. Ain't perfect for gaming yet since I could improve the temperature by editing the PWM profile of both side-panel and bottom fan.
> 
> Here are some "raw" pictures -yes my GTX970 sags too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - :
> http://reho.st/view/self/4f320c47ef8e657fb7368615d9828f37bf9da5b8.jpg
> http://reho.st/view/self/d33082d397cb7374a6adfa2dfebaae6ec7a901a1.jpg
> http://reho.st/view/self/c9bf054a7a01848131a715087759d4526ea2e4bc.jpg
> 
> Overall? Good stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> But they could have done a bit better by:
> 
> giving mounts for both 140 *AND* 120mm fans up top. Pnly 140mm out of the box, you can't mount a 120mm but it bends the top of the case slightly though.
> Enhancing the moduvent system. It's a good idea as of now but looks unfinished. Try to get the ones at the top with 2 fans on. Making the case 2.5cm taller would give enough clearance and an easier maintenance. And they could have made them magnetic with some kind of washer option. Wants to both moduvents and fans? Just put the moduvents on with some kind of magnetic washer to have enough noise insulation and clearance for air intake.


Looks good. Have you considered a 5.25 to 3.5 inch drive bay adapter? You could then remove the lower drive cage. I did that in this system below.



This is the mount I used, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0VE-000W-00007 but there are lots of options. it was on sale and I had some eggpoints to spend.


----------



## Euskafreez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan-H*
> 
> Looks good. Have you considered a 5.25 to 3.5 inch drive bay adapter? You could then remove the lower drive cage. I did that in this system below.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the mount I used, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0VE-000W-00007 but there are lots of options. it was on sale and I had some eggpoints to spend.


Cheers, you read my mind! Since I only need one hdd for storage, no need for the whole cage. I'm not concern at all about temperature since I only use that drive minutes a day, the rest of the time it's living the good life sleeping.

And yours comes with some rubber grommets







.


----------



## Euskafreez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Also, good tip is to remove the 1 or 2 PCIe slot covers immediately below your graphics card if you have an aftermarket cooler on it (as in, not the reference blower type cooler).


Good tip it is, gave it a go and I don't regret it at all. Now the temperature of my GPU is on par with HAF932







.


----------



## shhek0

Guys any rumours about TG case in the near future. Would like to see that from Fractal.


----------



## ZippyO

Can anyone explain the differences between the following fans?
Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12
Fractal Design Dynamic GP-12

And then there also are the Fractal Design Silent R3 which are not quieter than the other two, according to the official db-measurements by Fractal Design.

Which one of the three would you say is the best?


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Can anyone explain the differences between the following fans?
> Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12
> Fractal Design Dynamic GP-12
> 
> And then there also are the Fractal Design Silent R3 which are not quieter than the other two, according to the official db-measurements by Fractal Design.
> 
> Which one of the three would you say is the best?


I have a fractal R3 140mm and it is quiet but not silent, it does not even have the PWM buzz and the only other fan that can be heard is the psu

But my rig is about a foot away from me, I have it on top of my receiver and will be moveing it around soon

If it was below the desk it would be inaudiable


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZippyO*
> 
> Can anyone explain the differences between the following fans?
> Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-12
> Fractal Design Dynamic GP-12
> 
> And then there also are the Fractal Design Silent R3 which are not quieter than the other two, according to the official db-measurements by Fractal Design.
> 
> Which one of the three would you say is the best?


We really need to see some independent tests to see what those fans are about.

It's easy to make a quiet fan at some RPM leaving aside if it can actually push some air. It's even easier to put some great dbA specs on a website.. those are nearly always completely useless in comparing fans.

Hopefully the X2 is a lot better than the 'old' GP which was quiet but seemed to have forgotten that it had to push air around. Fractal is luckily a company that listens and improves on their designs.. so who knows. Please send some of these X2's to Thermalbench for review!


----------



## DyndaS




----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Euskafreez*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I still can't get rid of the trusted optical drive yet. It useless until that one single time ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyhow I played with as much configuration as I could. The results? First I did not sleep much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but coming from a nearly silent HAF932 with damn good air flow my expectations were high, too high I'd say.
> At first I ditched the Fractal fans out. Unfortunately the case was not silent at all. The reason? The two old NF-P12 plugged to the built-in rheobus made too much noise. Unlike the Fractal fans they spin a little more. They just can't get down to that sweet little spot of theirs. That's when I decided to give a shot to the Fractal fans. With 1000rpm written on them, no surprise they work in silence. From then on I just had to regulate one fan after the other in the bios, a custom PWM profile at the time. Ain't perfect for gaming yet since I could improve the temperature by editing the PWM profile of both side-panel and bottom fan.
> 
> Here are some "raw" pictures -yes my GTX970 sags too much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://reho.st/view/self/4f320c47ef8e657fb7368615d9828f37bf9da5b8.jpg
> http://reho.st/view/self/d33082d397cb7374a6adfa2dfebaae6ec7a901a1.jpg
> http://reho.st/view/self/c9bf054a7a01848131a715087759d4526ea2e4bc.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> Overall? Good stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> But they could have done a bit better by:
> 
> giving mounts for both 140 *AND* 120mm fans up top. 140mm only out of the box, you can't mount a 120mm but it bends the top of the case slightly though.
> Enhancing the moduvent system. It's a good idea as of now but looks unfinished. Try to get the ones at the top with 2 fans on. Making the case 2.5cm taller would give enough clearance and an easier maintenance. And they could have made them magnetic with some kind of washer option. Wants to both moduvents and fans? Just put the moduvents on with some kind of magnetic washer to have enough noise insulation and clearance for air intake.


So, real quick, you can mount either 140mm or 120mm fans up top: reference. They share a couple of holes, so it may look a little weird, just remember the top 120mm fan mounts are offset away from the motherboard some to give better mobo clearance.

Also, I'd urge you to test this out: put your moduvents back on top (close it off) and put those top Noctua 120mm fans on front intake (remove FD fans). Front to back airflow works quite well for the Define series. I've actually found that top and / or bottom intake or exhaust fans can actually hurt cooling performance, sometimes by as much as 3°C or so. Plus, with the top covers back on the case is *ultra* quiet!

Give it a test, swapping fans around is fairly easy to do! Do a nice A / B comparison, see what cools better or sounds better to you! Glad you like the PCI slot cover trick, something I picked up from @doyll that works exceptionally well!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Dang dude, looking awesome! What's up front? 360mm?


----------



## jologskyblues

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Mine Define C AC build


This configuration looks better for me.


----------



## DyndaS

@LazarusIV

Single 240 and it's working pretty good.

For the front it's possible to fit another slim rad but it need to be x-flow and fans on the another side of the frame. So... no dust filter. Anyway front rad is killing airflow inside the case, so I preffer to keep it like this for this case.

@jologskyblues

Depends what and who prefer. I like both builds. One is just AC and second LC









But for LC this case is very tight.


----------



## bowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> @LazarusIV
> 
> Single 240 and it's working pretty good.
> 
> For the front it's possible to fit another slim rad but it need to be x-flow and fans on the another side of the frame. So... no dust filter. Anyway front rad is killing airflow inside the case, so I preffer to keep it like this for this case.
> 
> @jologskyblues
> 
> Depends what and who prefer. I like both builds. One is just AC and second LC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for LC this case is very tight.


Is the top also a 240?

I didn't read carefully enough and ordered this case along with a H115i. It seems I have to send it back, or mount the radiator in the front.. which seems pointless to me? Where is it supposed to take in air if I'm mounting the radiator up front?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> Is the top also a 240?
> 
> I didn't read carefully enough and ordered this case along with a H115i. It seems I have to send it back, or mount the radiator in the front.. which seems pointless to me? Where is it supposed to take in air if I'm mounting the radiator up front?


Just mount it in the front as intake man, doing so hardly affects the mobo or GPU temps and it gives your CPU the best cooling.


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> Is the top also a 240?
> 
> I didn't read carefully enough and ordered this case along with a H115i. It seems I have to send it back, or mount the radiator in the front.. which seems pointless to me? Where is it supposed to take in air if I'm mounting the radiator up front?


Top radiator is 240mm and it is the only one radiator in my build. 280 rad at the top will not fit and for 240mm thicker then 25mm you may need low profile ram


----------



## bowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Top radiator is 240mm and it is the only one radiator in my build. 280 rad at the top will not fit and for 240mm thicker then 25mm you may need low ram profile ram


Thanks, guess I have to either send it back or do a front-mount, as subpar and self-defeating as that is.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> Thanks, guess I have to either send it back or do a front-mount, as subpar and self-defeating as that is.


I'm telling you man, front mounted rads hardly make a temp difference. You'll be just fine with the rad in front! I ran a 360mm in front intake on my case with my GPU on air, and when I moved big air for my CPU my GPU temps really weren't any different.


----------



## bowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I'm telling you man, front mounted rads hardly make a temp difference. You'll be just fine with the rad in front! I ran a 360mm in front intake on my case with my GPU on air, and when I moved big air for my CPU my GPU temps really weren't any different.


It just strikes me as idiotic to remove heat from my CPU and then blow it straight back into the case back to my poor RAM, VRM, and 1080 Ti which will need all the help it can get.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> It just strikes me as idiotic to remove heat from my CPU and then blow it straight back into the case back to my poor RAM, VRM, and 1080 Ti which will need all the help it can get.


When your OCed CPU is running watercooled at max load at 80°C, the air passing through the rad is not also 80°C. Unless you're putting a *massive* heat load into your radiators, the exhausted air is not that hot. If only it were that efficient... Reference 



 and 



.


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> It just strikes me as idiotic to remove heat from my CPU and then blow it straight back into the case back to my poor RAM, VRM, and 1080 Ti which will need all the help it can get.


Exactly. CPU temps will be a lot lower under gaming, but other things inside the case higher.


----------



## bowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> When your OCed CPU is running watercooled at max load at 80°C, the air passing through the rad is not also 80°C. Unless you're putting a *massive* heat load into your radiators, the exhausted air is not that hot. If only it were that efficient... Reference
> 
> 
> 
> and
> 
> 
> 
> .


Of course it's not going to be 80C, but it's still going to be hotter than ambient, which is counterproductive.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> Of course it's not going to be 80C, but it's still going to be hotter than ambient, which is counterproductive.


It's going to be higher than ambient, but not high enough above ambient to be easily noticeable. Watch the videos, they do real testing and the results are very telling.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> It's going to be higher than ambient, but not high enough above ambient to be easily noticeable. Watch the videos, they do real testing and the results are very telling.


This is dependent on your fan speeds (and your load). At lower RPMs it IS noticeable and it's always bad for a 2nd radiator exhausting.

To get some hard data from real tests..here's a from a test (HWLabs 280 GTX) on xtremerigs website. I think it has a 275W load which is a fair load for gaming with 1 GPU:



From that you can see the air temperate exhausted is nearly the same as the water flowing through the rad.

Have a look at the 'Air Out' at '750 RPM push only'.. it's 38C degrees or +13C over ambient. All components that are not water-cooled will be relative to this ambient. Running any PC +13C does have an effect (as many will now running in summer vs winter). And usually hotter components generate slightly more heat at higher temperatures too as the resistance goes up (Gamer's Nexus tested this recently).

At 1850 rpm, the temperature pushed inside is only +5C so it's much less. So for component inside a case, that's completely acceptable unless your super M2 SDD is throttling already.

But... if you have a second rad running as exhaust, that rad will hardly or completely not add to the cooling - this is because the inside of the case will already as hot as the water temperature in the loop:
- At 1850 rpm your ambient inside here is at 28.7C + heat from case .. while the water is 31 or 30C .. so hardly any cooling capacity left
- At 750rpm your ambient inside is at 38C + heat from the case .. while the water 40 or 41C...again very little cooling capacity left.

I'd always exhaust if it all possible and especially if you'd like a quiet system with low RPM fans.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> This is dependent on your fan speeds (and your load). At lower RPMs it IS noticeable and it's always bad for a 2nd radiator exhausting.
> 
> To get some hard data from real tests..here's a from a test (HWLabs 280 GTX) on xtremerigs website. I think it has a 275W load which is a fair load for gaming with 1 GPU:
> 
> 
> 
> From that you can see the air temperate exhausted is nearly the same as the water flowing through the rad.
> 
> Have a look at the 'Air Out' at '750 RPM push only'.. it's 38C degrees or +13C over ambient. All components that are not water-cooled will be relative to this ambient. Running any PC +13C does have an effect (as many will now running in summer vs winter). And usually hotter components generate slightly more heat at higher temperatures too as the resistance goes up (Gamer's Nexus tested this recently).
> 
> At 1850 rpm, the temperature pushed inside is only +5C so it's much less. So for component inside a case, that's completely acceptable unless your super M2 SDD is throttling already.
> 
> But... if you have a second rad running as exhaust, that rad will hardly or completely not add to the cooling - this is because the inside of the case will already as hot as the water temperature in the loop:
> - At 1850 rpm your ambient inside here is at 28.7C + heat from case .. while the water is 31 or 30C .. so hardly any cooling capacity left
> - At 750rpm your ambient inside is at 38C + heat from the case .. while the water 40 or 41C...again very little cooling capacity left.
> 
> I'd always exhaust if it all possible and especially if you'd like a quiet system with low RPM fans.


I'm not disagreeing with the results of that testing, but that's assuming the poster above is using the same variables in his setup as those which the tester used in their testing method. When we dig down deep into it, sure we can find test cases that refute my incredibly general statement. But that's not the point...

The point I was making is that for normal use in a normal setup with normal components, using your rad as intake will not make much of a difference in system temperature or for the non-watercooled components. It will make a difference, of course. What I'm saying is that it won't make a noticeable difference unless you're sitting there running benchmarks specifically to highlight the difference. I don't do that, because I don't have time to. When I have time to play on the computer, I sit down and play because my time to do that is few and far between. I certainly don't sit there and benchmark to make sure I'm optimizing my system to the extreme, because that doesn't matter to me. I'm not saying it doesn't matter to anyone. What I am saying is the poster above needs to figure out if fussing over a few degrees C difference is worth the effort, or if he should just put the radiator he has in front as intake and not worry about it since (I'm assuming) he just wants to get a decent OC and play some games or use his computer. Especially considering his equipment (if his sig rig is up to date) contains a non-overclockable CPU and a mid-range GPU. His CPU will not be putting out much heat, certainly not enough to make or break his graphics card's performance.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I'm not disagreeing with the results of that testing, but that's assuming the poster above is using the same variables in his setup as those which the tester used in their testing method. When we dig down deep into it, sure we can find test cases that refute my incredibly general statement. But that's not the point...
> 
> The point I was making is that for normal use in a normal setup with normal components, using your rad as intake will not make much of a difference in system temperature or for the non-watercooled components. It will make a difference, of course. What I'm saying is that it won't make a noticeable difference unless you're sitting there running benchmarks specifically to highlight the difference. I don't do that, because I don't have time to. When I have time to play on the computer, I sit down and play because my time to do that is few and far between. I certainly don't sit there and benchmark to make sure I'm optimizing my system to the extreme, because that doesn't matter to me. I'm not saying it doesn't matter to anyone. What I am saying is the poster above needs to figure out if fussing over a few degrees C difference is worth the effort, or if he should just put the radiator he has in front as intake and not worry about it since (I'm assuming) he just wants to get a decent OC and play some games or use his computer. Especially considering his equipment (if his sig rig is up to date) contains a non-overclockable CPU and a mid-range GPU. His CPU will not be putting out much heat, certainly not enough to make or break his graphics card's performance.


Agree for a non OC-ed CPU and a mid range GPU (assuming also not OCed) If in this case we're talking GPU with no rad, and a CPU with rad... probably intake will work better as else you'll be cooling with the heat coming from the GPU which is usually more than the CPU. The best thing is to test it out in your own system and try a couple of variations... and see if it is your CPU or GPU that is closest to throttling, and go from there.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Agree for a non OC-ed CPU and a mid range GPU (assuming also not OCed) If in this case we're talking GPU with no rad, and a CPU with rad... probably intake will work better as else you'll be cooling with the heat coming from the GPU which is usually more than the CPU. The best thing is to test it out in your own system and try a couple of variations... and see if it is your CPU or GPU that is closest to throttling, and go from there.


I'd argue except for absolute extreme OCs it works fine. For instance, my experience was a 360mm rad and a 240mm rad both as intake on my FX 8350 and my on-air GPU was a set of OCed R9 290s and I never had any temp issues with those furnaces whatsoever. Granted, I wasn't running a ba11s to the wall OC on the GPUs, but it was pretty near their limit. The CPU was OCed pretty hard, but I had a fairly dud chip that only made it to 4.9, ended up using 4.8 as my daily OC.

But you're right, it does depend on a lot of things and as temperatures rise in general, things get less efficient overall which can lead to a vicious circle of hate.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I'd argue except for absolute extreme OCs it works fine. For instance, my experience was a 360mm rad and a 240mm rad both as intake on my FX 8350 and my on-air GPU was a set of OCed R9 290s and I never had any temp issues with those furnaces whatsoever. Granted, I wasn't running a ba11s to the wall OC on the GPUs, but it was pretty near their limit. The CPU was OCed pretty hard, but I had a fairly dud chip that only made it to 4.9, ended up using 4.8 as my daily OC.
> 
> But you're right, it does depend on a lot of things and as temperatures rise in general, things get less efficient overall which can lead to a vicious circle of hate.


Wow your CPU was well served with that much rad space! I think that by itself would have kept the intake air just a couple of degrees over ambient, even when the fan RPM is lower. What case were you using?

Speaking of case by case and depending on a lot of things: .. In a previous Define Nano S build, I had 2 240 AIOs at 700-1000rpm (Scythe GTs).. So there I ended up with CPU AIO as intake and GPU as exhaust. All exhaust (which I generally prefer now) or intake just had poor airflow and performed less. The internal case temperature was +7 to +10C over ambient.

Despite the GPU cooling with a bit hotter air, it was totally fine for a water cooled GPU and it achieved a very good overclock for the 980Ti @1551Mhz (which equals a 2050Mhz 1080). The CPU was a 4690K @ 4.6Mhz.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Wow your CPU was well served with that much rad space! I think that by itself would have kept the intake air just a couple of degrees over ambient, even when the fan RPM is lower. What case were you using?
> 
> Speaking of case by case and depending on a lot of things: .. In a previous Define Nano S build, I had 2 240 AIOs at 700-1000rpm (Scythe GTs).. So there I ended up with CPU AIO as intake and GPU as exhaust. All exhaust (which I generally prefer now) or intake just had poor airflow and performed less. The internal case temperature was +7 to +10C over ambient.
> 
> Despite the GPU cooling with a bit hotter air, it was totally fine for a water cooled GPU and it achieved a very good overclock for the 980Ti @1551Mhz (which equals a 2050Mhz 1080). The CPU was a 4690K @ 4.6Mhz.


Yeah, I had planned to do a full loop with both GPUs and the CPU but I realized water cooling, while fun, was expensive and a pain to maintain and change things. I tend to tinker so big air and airflow-focused cases it is for me! I was using the Fractal Design Define S, same one I've got now. Amazing case, the airflow front-to-back is just phenomenal... very quiet case too. I do all intake with 1 exhaust fan in the upper rear position so my CPU cooler doesn't get clogged with hot air. Seems to work pretty well, plus we've got 2 cats and a dog so I try to keep a good amount of positive pressure. It seems to help minimize dust and hair build-up. Moving to a house and having a basement does wonders for that too though.

That Nano S build sounds awesome, I would love an excuse to build in that case! Such a good looking case, I swear.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Yeah, I had planned to do a full loop with both GPUs and the CPU but I realized water cooling, while fun, was expensive and a pain to maintain and change things. I tend to tinker so big air and airflow-focused cases it is for me! I was using the Fractal Design Define S, same one I've got now. Amazing case, the airflow front-to-back is just phenomenal... very quiet case too. I do all intake with 1 exhaust fan in the upper rear position so my CPU cooler doesn't get clogged with hot air. Seems to work pretty well, plus we've got 2 cats and a dog so I try to keep a good amount of positive pressure. It seems to help minimize dust and hair build-up. Moving to a house and having a basement does wonders for that too though.
> 
> That Nano S build sounds awesome, I would love an excuse to build in that case! Such a good looking case, I swear.


Actually with that build, I got irritated by the pump noise of the AIOs.. so I went Define S (about the smallest case with 420 support), custom loop and low rpm 140mm fans to not hear anything even at full load. It's been running without issues for a year and love the quietness. Yes water-cooling cost a lot.. but it's very low maintenance and I noticed that with low RPM and exhaust top/bottom - where normally the dust comes from, I get very little dust - even with cats:


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Actually with that build, I got irritated by the pump noise of the AIOs.. so I went Define S (about the smallest case with 420 support), custom loop and low rpm 140mm fans to not hear anything even at full load. It's been running without issues for a year and love the quietness. Yes water-cooling cost a lot.. but it's very low maintenance and I noticed that with low RPM and exhaust top/bottom - where normally the dust comes from, I get very little dust - even with cats:


HAHAHA, classic cat right there. Nice.

If I had more time I'd go full-blown custom water, but my wife and I both work full time and with an almost-2 year old time is a very precious commodity these days... Some day I will, but it'll probably be part of a massive, expensive, knock-down drag-out from scratch build.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Actually with that build, I got irritated by the pump noise of the AIOs.. so I went Define S (about the smallest case with 420 support), custom loop and low rpm 140mm fans to not hear anything even at full load. It's been running without issues for a year and love the quietness. Yes water-cooling cost a lot.. but it's very low maintenance and I noticed that with low RPM and exhaust top/bottom - where normally the dust comes from, I get very little dust - even with cats:


Is that the stock filter that comes with the case or is it a custom job?

I'm guessing you're exhausting out the top? My cat always figures out where my pc exhaust is. Currently I'm exhausting out the front so that's where he hangs out. Previous setup was in back and sure enough that's where he'd be.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Is that the stock filter that comes with the case or is it a custom job?
> 
> I'm guessing you're exhausting out the top? My cat always figures out where my pc exhaust is. Currently I'm exhausting out the front so that's where he hangs out. Previous setup was in back and sure enough that's where he'd be.


Yes cats have heat sensors









There's no filters in this case. It exhausts through a 280 at the bottom + 420 at the top. In-take is via the front. But that's passively - adding extra case fans there didn't help and only added noise.


----------



## Alover

Got a new r5,
I join the club.
Love the case but hate the fans.
They are noisy even at that low 500rpms...
Is there any way to solve that.
Its not a regular fan noisy wich is disturbing me.
But they make a weird whistle noise that i can hear at a distance and with the case closed.
With the case open or with my ear close to the fans i can´t hear it.
Really weird...


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Got a new r5,
> I join the club.
> Love the case but hate the fans.
> They are noisy even at that low 500rpms...
> Is there any way to solve that.
> Its not a regular fan noisy wich is disturbing me.
> But they make a weird whistle noise that i can hear at a distance and with the case closed.
> With the case open or with my ear close to the fans i can´t hear it.
> Really weird...


Welcome! It's a great case.

Replace them with proper fans. Try running without the filter. Not sure which fans Fractal now supplies with their case, but the GP fans that came with the Define S and Nano S were useless (quiet but no airflow - unable to suck air through the filter). Not to bash Fractal here, I never liked any fan supplied with a case. I usually sell them to what I suspect is a [[insert the brandname here]] fanboy on flee bay.


----------



## Alover

I wouldn´t say they are quiet, im going crazy with that wistle.
Wich one would be an upgrade?


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> I wouldn´t say they are quiet, im going crazy with that wistle.
> Wich one would be an upgrade?


Btw I'd send fractal a video with sound - it could be you just had bad fans with your case.

The Thermalbench website has done good tests on pressure fans, which is a source to start with. Look for the noise vs airflow graph + the rpm range.

Since you obviously appreciate effective but quiet, low rpm fans I recommend to look at EK Vardar F1 (I have those), Blacknoise Eloops B14-PS (can't get those down under), Corsair Pro140 ML (will try those soon to 'hear' the lack of a bearing noise - use PWM only) and Phanteks PH-F140MP.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Btw I'd send fractal a video with sound - it could be you just had bad fans with your case.
> 
> The Thermalbench website has done good tests on pressure fans, which is a source to start with. Look for the noise vs airflow graph + the rpm range.
> 
> Since you obviously appreciate effective but quiet, low rpm fans I recommend to look at EK Vardar F1 (I have those), Blacknoise Eloops B14-PS (can't get those down under), Corsair Pro140 ML (will try those soon to 'hear' the lack of a bearing noise - use PWM only) and Phanteks PH-F140MP.


I agree with this, but I stress the Phanteks fans... the MP fans have a wide PWM range and have a great noise profile. If you prioritize silence in your systems, check out the Phanteks PH-F140XP series. They've got a lower RPM range than the MP series, therefore they will be quieter at full blast. Which is nice if you just want to throw 'em in, set a lil fan curve in your BIOS and leave 'em alone. Which is what I do.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Just had a Fractal Nano S show up today, my third Fractal case after the Node 605 and Core 1500. I'll see what I can whip up with it, it's going to be all air though.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Btw I'd send fractal a video with sound - it could be you just had bad fans with your case.
> 
> The Thermalbench website has done good tests on pressure fans, which is a source to start with. Look for the noise vs airflow graph + the rpm range.
> 
> Since you obviously appreciate effective but quiet, low rpm fans I recommend to look at EK Vardar F1 (I have those), Blacknoise Eloops B14-PS (can't get those down under), Corsair Pro140 ML (will try those soon to 'hear' the lack of a bearing noise - use PWM only) and Phanteks PH-F140MP.


F****

I had a phanteks entho pro m case and sold it last week.
Also i got an extra fan, the same wich comes with the case. I gave away the extra fan to that guy because i thought i was not a good fan.
Now you tell me it´s one of the best fans out there







-
So sad.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> F****
> 
> I had a phanteks entho pro m case and sold it last week.
> Also i got an extra fan, the same wich comes with the case. I gave away the extra fan to that guy because i thought i was not a good fan.
> Now you tell me it´s one of the best fans out there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> So sad.


Get with reality, grow some courtesy and check the fan model. No case manufacterer supplies their top of line fans (Phanteks MP and XP) in their cases. It's always the crappy 'airflow' models.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> Get with reality, grow some courtesy and check the fan model. No case manufacterer supplies their top of line fans (Phanteks MP and XP) in their cases. It's always the crappy 'airflow' models.


Wow that´s true xd.
I managed to find the source of the noise.
It´s a very subtle whistle noise coming from the center. But this noise is heavily ampliflied with the case closed.
Don´t know how to fix that.
I did what you said and sent a mail to fractal support.
But i´m afraid i´ll have to buy a better quality fans xd.

Thank you for your help.

Also, sorry if i said something offensive or something wrong. English is not my main language, and also i´m not very good at it xd.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Wow that´s true xd.
> I managed to find the source of the noise.
> It´s a very subtle whistle noise coming from the center. But this noise is heavily ampliflied with the case closed.
> Don´t know how to fix that.
> I did what you said and sent a mail to fractal support.
> But i´m afraid i´ll have to buy a better quality fans xd.
> 
> Thank you for your help.
> 
> Also, sorry if i said something offensive or something wrong. English is not my main language, and also i´m not very good at it xd.


No problem, Alover. Your English seems pretty good actually.
That effect of the case closed, might just be an increased load on the fan bearing once it actually has to do some work.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Wow that´s true xd.
> I managed to find the source of the noise.
> It´s a very subtle whistle noise coming from the center. But this noise is heavily ampliflied with the case closed.
> Don´t know how to fix that.
> I did what you said and sent a mail to fractal support.
> But i´m afraid i´ll have to buy a better quality fans xd.
> 
> Thank you for your help.
> 
> Also, sorry if i said something offensive or something wrong. English is not my main language, and also i´m not very good at it xd.


Sounds like you got a bunk fan or fans... they certainly shouldn't be whistling. Their case fans may not move a lot of air, but they are certainly silent as heck. FD should get back to you pretty quickly, if not you can ping the FD rep here... he's pretty active!

That said, absolutely grab some PH-F140XPs or MPs when you can. Amazing fans. MP fans for higher RPM ceiling and low noise, XP fans for lower RPM ceiling and almost no noise.


----------



## Alover

Thank you, i´ve already sent a mail to fractal support to see what happens.
Also, i want to know if there is a big difference between the windowed version and the solid one.
I bought the windowed one, because i like a silent case, but also a pretty one xd. But if the difference is noticeable probably i would be more comfortable without a window.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Thank you, i´ve already sent a mail to fractal support to see what happens.
> Also, i want to know if there is a big difference between the windowed version and the solid one.
> I bought the windowed one, because i like a silent case, but also a pretty one xd. But if the difference is noticeable probably i would be more comfortable without a window.


I think there is a noticeable difference, but if looks are more important then the windowed is the way to go... I don't particularly care about looks too much so I wish I would've gotten a non-windowed version. Ah well, c'est la vie eh?


----------



## bowman

Not happy with the Define C. Some of the mobo stands were missing, and the mobo screws are garbage - they do not hold the motherboard down at all. There's several millimeters of play.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> I think there is a noticeable difference, but if looks are more important then the windowed is the way to go... I don't particularly care about looks too much so I wish I would've gotten a non-windowed version. Ah well, c'est la vie eh?


Oh i found that video.



I look really quieter without the window, specially in idle.
So sad, i care about looks, but i care much more about noise







.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Oh i found that video.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I look really quieter without the window, specially in idle.
> So sad, i care about looks, but i care much more about noise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, but the good news is you can buy the non-windowed Define R5 side panel and it will fit on the Define S


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Yeah, but the good news is you can buy the non-windowed Define R5 side panel and it will fit on the Define S


Mines the r5! But the panel cost more than 30$!!! xd
So sad


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Mines the r5! But the panel cost more than 30$!!! xd
> So sad


Oh shoot, I forgot you had that case already! Yeah, the side panels are fairly spendy but they are quite well-made. FD doesn't skimp on quality.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Oh shoot, I forgot you had that case already! Yeah, the side panels are fairly spendy but they are quite well-made. FD doesn't skimp on quality.


Actually is only 15€, but they charge an extra 16€ for shipping


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Got a new r5,
> I join the club.
> Love the case but hate the fans.
> They are noisy even at that low 500rpms...
> Is there any way to solve that.
> Its not a regular fan noisy wich is disturbing me.
> But they make a weird whistle noise that i can hear at a distance and with the case closed.
> With the case open or with my ear close to the fans i can´t hear it.
> Really weird...


I would contact Fractal.

edit: ( seems like I left my brain at home while typing, or a line got removed...)

We have three R5s and none of the systems make any fan noise at idle and when the systems get hot, even then it is a soft fan noise /edit

One has five of the Fractal Fans, one has Four Fractal fans, and my dead silent system has Phantek case fans.

The two recently built systems ( Wish it was mine in my sig) are all fractal and the fans cannot be heard. The loudest items are the fairly quiet HDD.

Another tip for isolating where the sound is coming from is to go to an auto parts store and purchase a 3 foot length of rubber vacuum hose. The vacuum hose is fairly thick rubber with a small inside diameter. Then I put a foam earplug in one ear. and the end of the hose near (not inside) my other ear and move the free end around until I find the source of the noise. I used to do this on cars to find which valve was ticking and found it works for computers too.

Good luck,


----------



## Alover

What about this
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/justsilence1
It says that the only difference between windowed and solid panel is the additional fan position. Not noticeable noise difference. :S


----------



## mnemo_05

Hi,

Any Fractal core 500 users here that have tried installing a Swiftech H220x on their case?

Care to share some photos? Thanks!

Will build mine tomorrow, just worried about clearance.


----------



## Alover

After doing some research i have more information about the "whistle".
It´s not produced by the fan itself, but the fan vibrations.
The fan is making something in the back of the cage vibrate and thats what making the sound.
Is more noticeable when the fans is changing it speed.
I don´t know what to do, but its awfull, it sound like a flute inside the pc.

Edit:
More info.
The noise is coming from the rear left border, where the quick release stuff is placed.


----------



## HZCH

I've heard that kind of whistling sound with my last build (in my sig), but on the front of my Define C mini, with noctua fans (nf-f12pwm and nf-a14pwm). I "just" averted it by changing the fans (Silentwings 3 120mm pwm)...

I guess that any fan just makes turbulence in some instances, and you will only avoid them by choosing other fans, or changing the aerodynamics of the airflow ?

I'm no scientific: that's why I now own a bunch of fans ?


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Any Fractal core 500 users here that have tried installing a Swiftech H220x on their case?
> 
> Care to share some photos? Thanks!
> 
> Will build mine tomorrow, just worried about clearance.


If your not planning to have optical / 3.5 hdd then youll have no problem with top exhaust
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> After doing some research i have more information about the "whistle".
> It´s not produced by the fan itself, but the fan vibrations.
> The fan is making something in the back of the cage vibrate and thats what making the sound.
> Is more noticeable when the fans is changing it speed.
> I don´t know what to do, but its awfull, it sound like a flute inside the pc.
> 
> Edit:
> More info.
> The noise is coming from the rear left border, where the quick release stuff is placed.


I had the issue with a coolermaster masterflow pressure 140, I thought it would be as quiet as the 120mm silencio But I was so wrong, it buzzed/ vibrated and never spun properly in pwm mode and when it did spin , it droned


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> I've heard that kind of whistling sound with my last build (in my sig), but on the front of my Define C mini, with noctua fans (nf-f12pwm and nf-a14pwm). I "just" averted it by changing the fans (Silentwings 3 120mm pwm)...
> 
> I guess that any fan just makes turbulence in some instances, and you will only avoid them by choosing other fans, or changing the aerodynamics of the airflow ?
> 
> I'm no scientific: that's why I now own a bunch of fans ?


I tried to hear the front fan to see what and you are right.
The frame also vibrates and makes the same noise xd.


----------



## bowman

Oh, is that what the noise is? I thought at first it was coil whine, but it didn't sound like that either.

Sounds like I better make an order for some Noctuas..


----------



## Alover

It´s something really weird.
The frame is really thick, but it vibrates a lot.
I´m going tro remove the quick release stuff, that piece of plastic and see what happens.
Maybe the case is too big and the vibrations has a long way to spread and sing it song.
I cannot try with another fan, i dont have any xd.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowman*
> 
> Oh, is that what the noise is? I thought at first it was coil whine, but it didn't sound like that either.
> 
> Sounds like I better make an order for some Noctuas..


Funny, I sold 2 Noctuas of because they vibrated too much. My guess was that's why they sell those anti vibration rubber thingies


----------



## Alover

So you are experiencing the same noise?
I would say it sounds like a musical saw xd.



Obviously not that loud, and not so high pitched xd.


----------



## mnemo_05

board and proc has not arrived yet









did this while waiting, 92mm noctua fans will be placed here as intake.. pretty happy with the results considering this is the first time I used a rotary tool













test fit the sfx psu, H75 mounted at the rear for my GPU + G10 Kraken and H220-X for the proc, no clearance issues

cant wait to get this baby going!


----------



## Alover

is the define c someway noisier thant the r5?


----------



## mnemo_05

since we are on the topic of quite rigs, is it worth removing the top and side panel vents and just use the magnet filters themselves?

I would like to run my GTs a aroundt 7v just so they produce less noise as possible, not that they are noisy though. Ive seen someone here cut-out those vents but not sure how much effect it has on cooling.


----------



## 44TZL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> since we are on the topic of quite rigs, is it worth removing the top and side panel vents and just use the magnet filters themselves?
> 
> I would like to run my GTs a aroundt 7v just so they produce less noise as possible, not that they are noisy though. Ive seen someone here cut-out those vents but not sure how much effect it has on cooling.


The magnetic filters in most cases, have by far the most air resistance compared to the vents, so I don't think you'll see much of an improvement.
On the other hand, removing the filters always had a great effect and allows lower fan speeds for the same cooling. Under load, with fans at 700rpm, my current Define S sees a +10C to +8C water temperate drop from just removing the front filter.

So I've always ended up with no filters (Air 240, Define Nano S, Define S). The good thing is that lower fan speeds and not intaking at the bottom (and top), all seem to contribute to a lot less dust build up.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44TZL*
> 
> The magnetic filters in most cases, have by far the most air resistance compared to the vents, so I don't think you'll see much of an improvement.
> On the other hand, removing the filters always had a great effect and allows lower fan speeds for the same cooling. Under load, with fans at 700rpm, my current Define S sees a +10C to +8C water temperate drop from just removing the front filter.
> 
> So I've always ended up with no filters (Air 240, Define Nano S, Define S). The good thing is that lower fan speeds and not intaking at the bottom (and top), all seem to contribute to a lot less dust build up.


Thanks, will keep that in mind. I know from experience that the foam filter of my Arc Mini r2 is very restrictive. Removed them and replaced it with demiflexes and I saw a 3c-5c improvement in my temps.

The magnetic filters on the Core 500 looks a lot less restrictive as compared to other filters I've seen or used. Although going no filter is an option, cleaning this Core 500 once it is all built up will be a pain in the butt. I dont see much space left with the components I am to cram in it.

Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming + i7-7700k + H220-X
980ti + G10 kraken + H75
silverstone sfx 600w
3 3.5hdd
2 2.5ssd
5.25 fan controller
92mm front fan


----------



## Jyve

Yeah I removed the filters out of my mini r2 as well. Intake through the top (rad) and exhaust out the front (no rad).


----------



## pojo1806

I messed up, I ordered the Define S but now want the Define C, too late to cancel my Amazon order.


----------



## KaffieneKing

Anyone own a define C and can measure the distance between the mobo tray and side panel?

Really hoping I can fit an ITX board down there! (I need 170mm, CPU cooler size says 168mm but hoping that there's just a bit more space!)


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pojo1806*
> 
> I messed up, I ordered the Define S but now want the Define C, too late to cancel my Amazon order.


You can still return it though. Or refuse delivery if you're home.


----------



## mnemo_05

man this project keep on hitting bumps.. i found a crack on my h220-x reservoir. will head to distro tomorrow, they will replace it with a h220-x2.. will have to measure again as this new cooler is a tad longer and the height too might become a problem


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Got a new r5,
> I join the club.
> Love the case but hate the fans.
> They are noisy even at that low 500rpms...
> Is there any way to solve that.
> Its not a regular fan noisy wich is disturbing me.
> But they make a weird whistle noise that i can hear at a distance and with the case closed.
> With the case open or with my ear close to the fans i can´t hear it.
> Really weird...


Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the fans in your new case. There shouldn't be anything remotely resembling a whistling noise coming from any of our fans at any speed, much less at just 500rpm. At such a low speed they should be almost totally inaudible. Can you tell if the noise is coming from any one fan in particular? Also how do you have them hooked up in your system?


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the fans in your new case. There shouldn't be anything remotely resembling a whistling noise coming from any of our fans at any speed, much less at just 500rpm. At such a low speed they should be almost totally inaudible. Can you tell if the noise is coming from any one fan in particular? Also how do you have them hooked up in your system?


Haha thank you!.
I was doing some research and realized that the noise is not comming from the fan.
The wistle is produced by the rear left border of the frame due to vibrations of the fan.
I´m triying with different fans, but i can´t fix it by now.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Haha thank you!.
> I was doing some research and realized that the noise is not comming from the fan.
> The wistle is produced by the rear left border of the frame due to vibrations of the fan.
> I´m triying with different fans, but i can´t fix it by now.


maybe try using anti vibration mounts/pads on the fan if possible. I've switched my case fans to anti-vibration mounts, seems to work and removing/re-installing them is a breeze =)


----------



## mnemo_05

man fitting a Swiftech H220-X2(for cpu of course) and a Corsair H75 + G10 Kraken on a Core 500 is a real challenge.. i'll end up using every bit of space in this case.. hopefully I finish this build tomorrow, will take some photos and share once done


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> man fitting a Swiftech H220-X2(for cpu of course) and a Corsair H75 + G10 Kraken on a Core 500 is a real challenge.. i'll end up using every bit of space in this case.. hopefully I finish this build tomorrow, will take some photos and share once done


Dude, yeah, pics required. Sounds awesome!


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Haha thank you!.
> I was doing some research and realized that the noise is not comming from the fan.
> The wistle is produced by the rear left border of the frame due to vibrations of the fan.
> I´m triying with different fans, but i can´t fix it by now.


These vibrations are causing a whistling noise? That really is peculiar. If it's a constant high pitched tone you're hearing and not a low buzzing sound, I'm not sure if fan frame vibrations are really the cause. At 500rpm, the oscillations of an imbalanced fan would only be about 8 Hz, which is below audible range. Even if the vibrations were somehow travelling through the chassis from a 7200rpm hard drive, it would still be more of a buzz than a whistle. Whistling would almost have to be either electronics related or the result of some sort of unusual aerodynamic behavior.

First thing I would try is to power off the PC, unplug the fan closest to the source of the noise, and power back on to see if anything changes. If the noise stops, then it's pretty much got to be the fan. If it persists though, then the vibrations/noise must be coming from somewhere else.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> These vibrations are causing a whistling noise? That really is peculiar. If it's a constant high pitched tone you're hearing and not a low buzzing sound, I'm not sure if fan frame vibrations are really the cause. At 500rpm, the oscillations of an imbalanced fan would only be about 8 Hz, which is below audible range. Even if the vibrations were somehow travelling through the chassis from a 7200rpm hard drive, it would still be more of a buzz than a whistle. Whistling would almost have to be either electronics related or the result of some sort of unusual aerodynamic behavior.
> 
> First thing I would try is to power off the PC, unplug the fan closest to the source of the noise, and power back on to see if anything changes. If the noise stops, then it's pretty much got to be the fan. If it persists though, then the vibrations/noise must be coming from somewhere else.


The noise stops if i turn off the fan or when i put a finger in the frame stopping the vibrations xd.
It´s like a wistle but it´s not a high pitched noise.
It´s hard to describe , it´s like when you blow into a bottle. that kind of wistle.


----------



## mnemo_05

probably the oscillation is somehow hitting a frequency that is bothersome to your ear


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> The noise stops if i turn off the fan or when i put a finger in the frame stopping the vibrations xd.
> It´s like a wistle but it´s not a high pitched noise.
> It´s hard to describe , it´s like when you blow into a bottle. that kind of wistle.


This really is an interesting case. Assuming they're still in the default config, is it the front fan or the rear fan that's doing this? If it's the front fan, does it still whistle when you remove the filter?


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> This really is an interesting case. Assuming they're still in the default config, is it the front fan or the rear fan that's doing this? If it's the front fan, does it still whistle when you remove the filter?


Both make that noise, but now i removed the rear fan just to try to solve it one by one xd.
The rear one makes the noise always.
The front fan makes the same noise but is less noticeable, and as you suggest, is barely audible if i remove the front filter.
When i mean front rear fan i mean the position, i switched it and the result is the same.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Both make that noise, but now i removed the rear fan just to try to solve it one by one xd.
> The rear one makes the noise always.
> The front fan makes the same noise but is less noticeable, and as you suggest, is barely audible if i remove the front filter.
> When i mean front rear fan i mean the position, i switched it and the result is the same.


Would you be able to get a recording of the noise with and without the filter and attach it to a ticket at support.fractal-design.com so we can hear for ourselves? A photo of the case interior could be helpful as well. I haven't run across anything quite like this but I'm sure we can solve the problem if we can figure out why it's doing this.


----------



## pojo1806

Got my Define S today and transplanted my build into it. It was so easy and no problems at all, I was worried about the cable clearance at the back but it's plenty big enough. The included 2 fans are both in the front and I have a Corsair AF140 in the back, I may even buy a 3rd Fractal fan for the front as they are so quiet.


----------



## Alover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> Would you be able to get a recording of the noise with and without the filter and attach it to a ticket at support.fractal-design.com so we can hear for ourselves? A photo of the case interior could be helpful as well. I haven't run across anything quite like this but I'm sure we can solve the problem if we can figure out why it's doing this.


I tried, but i can´t, the noise is overlaped by other noises, the mic does not have too much quality.
I´m going to give it a second try.


----------



## d0mmie

Any word on why the white version of Define Nano S case can't be bought in either US or EU markets?


----------



## SteelBox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> I tried, but i can´t, the noise is overlaped by other noises, the mic does not have too much quality.
> I´m going to give it a second try.


I have similar problem with Define R5 (side panel vibration). In my case I put screws in HDD cage holes and noise stopped.


----------



## pojo1806

As much as I couldn't be bothered I stripped down the Define S and returned it for a Define C, it was so worth it.

EDIT: Added picture










Dat GPU sag, also not sure what fans to put in yet so didn't change the default Fractal ones.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pojo1806*
> 
> As much as I couldn't be bothered I stripped down the Define S and returned it for a Define C, it was so worth it.
> 
> EDIT: Added picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dat GPU sag, also not sure what fans to put in yet so didn't change the default Fractal ones.


so.much.space.


----------



## Alover

MM i think i´m going to return the r5 and get a define c.
Cant solve the noise issue.
Maybe a smaller case has less vibrations than a larger one.
Also the psu shroud could help "dissipating" them.


----------



## mnemo_05

this core 500 is tight







corsair sfx cables are not helping either, very hard to bend/manage.. will post build photo soon










oh, any suggestion about fan orientarion? should I do all intake for my rads and let the heat vent out from the sidepanel and other openings this case has on it? I dont think my 92mm in front intake will help much


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> this core 500 is tight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> corsair sfx cables are not helping either, very hard to bend/manage.. will post build photo soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh, any suggestion about fan orientarion? should I do all intake for my rads and let the heat vent out from the sidepanel and other openings this case has on it? I dont think my 92mm in front intake will help much


I just got a core 500 as well it's not that bad but I'm not running a video card yet and I have to change power supplies. My 550w G2 isn't up to snuff for my 6600k and incoming FTW3, plus it's way too long. If you're having problems with an sfx power supply, it looks like I might need to get\make a short set of cables as well as a short power supply, like a EVGA G3 or a cooler Master v750


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> I just got a core 500 as well it's not that bad but I'm not running a video card yet and I have to change power supplies. My 550w G2 isn't up to snuff for my 6600k and incoming FTW3, plus it's way too long. If you're having problems with an sfx power supply, it looks like I might need to get\make a short set of cables as well as a short power supply, like a EVGA G3 or a cooler Master v750


When you have a h220-x2 on top and another h75 on the rear, space suddenly disappears LOL! I had to go SFX due to the reservoir of the h220-x2

The corsair cables thought they are ribbon type are stiff!

Well here is one way I found to maximize the space SFX has to offer, took that atx bracket out and gained a more space to tuck the cables to



It wont budge no matter what I do with it, so i guess safe enough


----------



## somebadlemonade

Nicely filled to the brim build you'll have there.

Eventually I was thinking of picking up a apogee drive 2 and shoehorning a 240 and a 120 in the case.


----------



## mnemo_05

and we hit another snag >.<

after I've fitted everything and ran some benchies, even on stock clock this 7700k is toasty. will be disassembling and delidding this bastard, hopefully will get this rig running this weekend.

here is what it looked like once everything is put together

























it is now damn heavy, lol


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Nicely stuffed!


----------



## mnemo_05

check out that crappy tim and thick silicone seal smh.. even the paste isnt spread properly, some parts have thick patches

















CoolLab LU please do your magic *crossfingers it still works*

















now the wait to cure the silicone seal begins









i'll be happy to get anything below 75c on full load with fans on 1k rpm given the case that i am using. might reverse the front fan as exhaust as i went with all intake on the rads(top and rear)


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I have a Fractal Nano S and the GPU slot in the case isn't lining up with the PCIE slot on the mobo - it appears the mobo is mounted about 5mm too high. Asus Strix Z270i mITX mobo, there are only 4 mounting holes in the mobo. When I install the GPU into the PCIE slot, the thumb screw holes are nowhere close to lining up. And it might be the mobo, it seems like the GPU is really tight against the shield around the audio connectors.


----------



## d0mmie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I have a Fractal Nano S and the GPU slot in the case isn't lining up with the PCIE slot on the mobo - it appears the mobo is mounted about 5mm too high. Asus Strix Z270i mITX mobo, there are only 4 mounting holes in the mobo. When I install the GPU into the PCIE slot, the thumb screw holes are nowhere close to lining up. And it might be the mobo, it seems like the GPU is really tight against the shield around the audio connectors.


Pictures would help


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d0mmie*
> 
> Pictures would help


Yeah, I just discovered the issue at lunch and am back at work now. And to add that the I/O shield lines up perfectly, no issue there, so the I/O shield and the mounting holes in the mobo/case seem to line up fine. Either the PCIE slot on the mobo is too high (I see these mobos mounted in cases), the hole in the case is off (I see others using this case) or maybe the mounting bracket on the card is off (I see others using this card). But for an idea, picture the row of HDMI/DP ports about halfway covered by the top of the GPU slot in the case:



EDIT: I got in in there, just loosened everything up and re-aligned. It's still an awfully tight fit, but it's operational!


----------



## Bacon1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techbyte*
> 
> This is my Define Nano S build.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with a Corsair SF600 power supply to allow better airflow for the GPU. My entire system can't even push it to 50% load so it is still silent. The only downfall was the stock cables. They were way too short. So I ended up just picking up a set of CableMod cables for it. I also swapped out the stock fans for some Fractal Venturis. This thing is damn near silent.
> 
> Overall I really like this case. I went with the non-windowed version for better noise isolation and because I planned to put it in my desks cubby. (The cubby has no door or rear paneling)


This is a post from quite a few pages back, but I am looking to run a similar setup in my next build with the Nano S and this SF600 PSU. Could you link the kit for the CableMod cables you ordered? I'd rather not buy more cables than what I need as they can get $$$$$.

Thanks


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacon1*
> 
> This is a post from quite a few pages back, but I am looking to run a similar setup in my next build with the Nano S and this SF600 PSU. Could you link the kit for the CableMod cables you ordered? I'd rather not buy more cables than what I need as they can get $$$$$.
> 
> Thanks


What you're looking for is the C-Series *RMi / RMx* of cables.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=-1&IsNodeId=1&Description=CableMod%20C-Series&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=36
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=CableMod+C-Series


----------



## mnemo_05

7700K delid done and cured, now this









Upon learning that I can also control the fan speed via the GPU temp, I am sold. This should tone down my GTs nicely.

Question though, I have a 4 Swiftech Helix here, are they any better than GTs? Too lazy to swap them out


----------



## mnemo_05

grid+ v2 fits perfectly in front of my core 500. as expected the delid reduced my temps by around 20c, now to stress test before putting everything back together


----------



## frostbite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> grid+ v2 fits perfectly in front of my core 500. as expected the delid reduced my temps by around 20c, now to stress test before putting everything back together


You'll have better temps with the top and rear as exhaust, leaving the front, side and bottom as intake

As you have it the heat from the rads is all being blown back into the case


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> You'll have better temps with the top and rear as exhaust, leaving the front, side and bottom as intake
> 
> As you have it the heat from the rads is all being blown back into the case


I might give that a try, the case itself is hot when I stressed both CPU and GPU at the same time.. 7700K hits max of 69c on stock settings, 75c when running 4.7ghz auto 1.260v and 980TI hits 70c on stock


----------



## Megadrone

Anyone know how to remove SSD from behind the motherboard tray in a Define R4 case?

It looks like this: 

The SSD screwheads are on the motherboards side, under it. That means i need to completely remove motherboard but i dont want to do that. Any other way?

heres what the manual says:
Quote:


> Motherboard
> SSD mounting positions
> For maximum use of the space between the motherboard and the side panel, Define R4 computer cases feature an additional mounting option for two (2) 2.5′′ solid state drives (SSD) behind the motherboard. SSDs should be mounted to the motherboard plate prior to installing th motherboard in the case; drives should be mounted with the SATA connector pointing forward and with straight SATA & SATA power cables - 90° cables are not supported.


----------



## Lodbroke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Megadrone*
> 
> Anyone know how to remove SSD from behind the motherboard tray in a Define R4 case?
> 
> It looks like this:
> 
> The SSD screwheads are on the motherboards side, under it. That means i need to completely remove motherboard but i dont want to do that. Any other way?
> 
> heres what the manual says:


Had the same on the FD Core 1300, one SSD placed behind the PSU. Need to unscrew the PSU to remove the SSD mounted there.

Solved it by putting 2 SSDs in the 5.25" slot under the ODD.
As the there are no moving part on SDDs and those I got are extremely light. just 2 screws on one side is enough to hold it...


Having one OCZ Toshiba TL100 (left) and one OCZ ARC100 (right) (of which the ARC100 is slightly heavier).

Alternatively you could fix the SSD with Velcro.


----------



## Starlet

Ok, so here we are! One modded Define C









It now has 2*140mm + 120mm front intake fans and one 140mm rear exhaust fan.

Thank you forum for you help (with messurements and all)


Starting conditions for the front fans


Starting conditions at the back



This was taken away!


2*140mm + 120mm



140mm





Maby overkill....I reached 5,2GHz OC ( 5,0GHz when execute AVX commands) on a delided 7700K with god temps for 24/7 use


----------



## Starlet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSWolf1993*
> 
> I am going with mini C and all air coolers. Which setup would you guys choose and why?
> 
> 
> 
> *2x NF-A14 PWM*
> _vs_
> *3x NF-S12A PWM*


How did you solve you fan config problem? It is possible to mount 2*140 + 120mm in front if you have a drill (see my post above)


----------



## SSWolf1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starlet*
> 
> How did you solve you fan config problem? It is possible to mount 2*140 + 120mm in front if you have a drill (see my post above)


It is not possible in mini c.









This is what I use: (2x 140mm and 1x 120mm in the back, all ~850 RPM)


That is cool what you did, but in reality changes in temperature are negligible.


----------



## Megadrone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> Had the same on the FD Core 1300, one SSD placed behind the PSU. Need to unscrew the PSU to remove the SSD mounted there.
> 
> Solved it by putting 2 SSDs in the 5.25" slot under the ODD.
> As the there are no moving part on SDDs and those I got are extremely light. just 2 screws on one side is enough to hold it...
> 
> 
> Having one OCZ Toshiba TL100 (left) and one OCZ ARC100 (right) (of which the ARC100 is slightly heavier).
> 
> Alternatively you could fix the SSD with Velcro.


Didnt know you could do that. Issue with relocation is cable management, Id have to redo that to get the cables there. Ill see about the velcro, but is there a way i can unscrew the SSD without reaching the screwheads? Can i just violently pull it apart so i dont have to lift up the motherboard.


----------



## Lodbroke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Megadrone*
> 
> Didnt know you could do that. Issue with relocation is cable management, Id have to redo that to get the cables there. Ill see about the velcro, but is there a way i can unscrew the SSD without reaching the screwheads? Can i just violently pull it apart so i dont have to lift up the motherboard.


Nah! don't be too forceful with the motherboard.
Guess u better take your time and the trouble of removing the motherboard, at least this time.
Probably also disconnect some cables too...


----------



## Megadrone

its gonna take soo much time taking apart the fans, then the motherboard, then putting it back because i didnt have the mind to use velcro 4 years ago...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> Nah! don't be too forceful with the motherboard.
> Guess u better take your time and the trouble of removing the motherboard, at least this time.
> Probably also disconnect some cables too...


you know what, i will just leave the dead SSD where it is like a tumor and put a new one next to it. I will just try to have the cables reach there, much easier. Where should i place the new SSD here?:


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Megadrone*
> 
> its gonna take soo much time taking apart the fans, then the motherboard, then putting it back because i didnt have the mind to use velcro 4 years ago...
> you know what, i will just leave the dead SSD where it is like a tumor and put a new one next to it. I will just try to have the cables reach there, much easier. Where should i place the new SSD here?:


Velcro it on the floor if it's a nice SSD ?


----------



## somebadlemonade

I'm just waiting on my FTW3 to come in to take a few pics of my computer in a Core 500.

I remember reading several reviews saying the side panel was hard to put back on. I guess those people must've been young, since all computer cases were the same in the early 90's.

The only issue I ran into was not being able to run the fan filter(s) on the inside of the case since the top one rubs against the fan I have installed in the top. It doesn't bother me that much it'll easier to clean with it being on the outside.


----------



## mnemo_05

Ran with he same issue on my core 500. Top filter rubs againts the my rad screws so i flipped the fans and configured them as exhaust as suggested here. Installed the sidepanel filter on the outside as well for easier cleaning.

My next upgrade will probably be a GPU, but not until my 980Ti cannot keep up anymore.

BTW,that SSD tray design is a complete fail.


----------



## NoDestiny

FYI, the Fractal Define C (ATX) can do not only the 2x140mm or 3x120mm up front, but without modification, can do 1x140mm AND 2x120mm!



Question: What have you found to be the best configuration for quiet and cool? I only have the 3 front fans and 1 rear 120mm, with the cover on the top still. It does OK, but I'm sure it can do better. Is more fans really the solution here? I was considering cutting the top cover in 1/2 and putting a 140mm in the rear top. I don't see having one in the front 1/2 of the top of any use, really.

FYI: I was able to drop 3-4 degrees all around by simply removing the front panel. Seems to restrict airflow quite a bit. Obviously, noise went up by doing so at the same fan RPMs.


----------



## Bacon1

Anyone had experience fitting a Kraken X62 in the front of a nano s? The max length listed on fractal's website is 312mm and the x62 is 315mm long. I'm planning on placing the tubes from the top so my guess is the only restriction would be the top of the rad being too long and running into the top of the case.


----------



## Alover

Cannot find the define c window anywhere!


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Cannot find the define c window anywhere!


And where would you be located? Might help others to help you...


----------



## Alover

Spain.
It´s sold out everywhere


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Spain.
> It´s sold out everywhere


Looks like there's some on Amazon.es: Windowed and non-Windowed


----------



## Alover

Wow xd.
Anyway, it´s a little overpriced.
You can find it easily for 90€, but... no existences.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alover*
> 
> Wow xd.
> Anyway, it´s a little overpriced.
> You can find it easily for 90€, but... no existences.


Yeah, I thought it was a bit expensive. Looks like they're low on stock, which could be why the price is higher than typical. Wait a little, maybe in a couple weeks it'll come back down to a reasonable price!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacon1*
> 
> Anyone had experience fitting a Kraken X62 in the front of a nano s? The max length listed on fractal's website is 312mm and the x62 is 315mm long. I'm planning on placing the tubes from the top so my guess is the only restriction would be the top of the rad being too long and running into the top of the case.


Man, it'd be close. I have a 280 GTS in the front of mine, it's listed as 312mm. But I put a strip of thin mousepad material under it when I was fitting it up to keep it off the very bottom of the case, so that's at least 2mm and I'm pretty sure it's not wedged against the roof. I can see how much room I have left at the top and what the actual thickness of that pad is in a couple of hours.

Edit: There's easily 3mm above the radiator before it hits the top of the case, plus the 2mm under the radiator - If all the given dimensions on the GTS 280 are correct, I don't see any problem mounting a 315mm unit in there. But it's worth mentioning that the GTS 280 is too wide, I had to move the case divider panel over about 1/2" to get that to fit side-to-side, so be sure your radiator meets Fractals dimensions in width.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Sorry for the double post, but it's different info I guess. Nano S Loop time.

Mounting the radiator in the top of a Nano S is tight, but by trimming to corners of the fans it'll clear the RAM. Only drawback is the fans are pull only as I run intake on all radiators (if this goes against what your preference is, feel free to start a thread on that).



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Since the res was going to be right under the top radiator, filling/bleeding it was a challenge. So I epoxied a piece of tubing into it that intersected the port on the back. This will allow air to escape basically from the top of the res, and allow the res to be filled completely from a port in the base. The fill/drain port comes out the back, there's a plugged ball valve on the back, I'll fill it through a length of flex hose screwed into the ball valve.

Kinda hard to see:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Here it is mounted up:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Tight fit at the top:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Not my finest work, but it's kind tight. A lot of the bends are so close together they kinda run together - hard to make a bend without loosening up the previous bend.

Loop so far, I'll finish it up and fill it tomorrow.

Asus Strix Z270i
Delidded i7-7700K
G. Skill 3600 C15 RAM
2X 960 Pro 512 M.2 drives
Titan Xp
EK blocks, pump, res
HW Labs Black Ice Nemesis GTS 280 front, GTS 240 top
Primochill PETG, Revolver fittings
Seasonic X750 PSU

Fractal Nano S


----------



## mnemo_05

wow that is a very good looking loop!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words. I don't really like the loop - I like how much stuff I was able to hook up with hard tube, and it'll work, but artistically/aesthetically I think it's lacking. Now if I can bleed it and have no leaks I might like it better


----------



## ticallista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoDestiny*
> 
> FYI: I was able to drop 3-4 degrees all around by simply removing the front panel. Seems to restrict airflow quite a bit. Obviously, noise went up by doing so at the same fan RPMs.


That's why I prefer the R5. When I game, I just open the door. Otherwise I close it for silence.


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Anyone know where I can order replacement motherboard screws for my Define S? My box of screws for the case seems to have disappeared while in storage


----------



## Darkbreeze

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/motherboard-screws


----------



## mrpurplehawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/bhp/motherboard-screws


Hmm, are motherboard screws/standoffs a standard thread?


----------



## Darkbreeze

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-screws-used-on-the-pc/


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbreeze*
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-screws-used-on-the-pc/


oh god the card board washers, the olden days of computer building memories.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Filled, bled, did a little benching - all seems great. I am very pleased with how quiet and cool running this rig is. And pretty stout for such a small rig









Still a few bubbles clinging to that vent tube I added and some on the vortex breaker, but the loop is otherwise air free. Spent some time dialing in fan curves and stuff, just about perfect now.


----------



## mnemo_05

I am considering doing a full loop on my Core 500 as well if ever I find the time. I wonder though how hard it will be on my case. I have seen someone done it, looks like it will be a lot of work.

I really dig your loop and not putting any dye in there I think is a good call.

how tall are those RAMS? I was under the impression that the Nano S will not run to these issues.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> I really dig your loop and not putting any dye in there I think is a good call.
> 
> how tall are those RAMS? I was under the impression that the Nano S will not run to these issues.


They are too tall to clear the fans, so I trimmed the corners off the fans to clear them. And trimming those fan corners - the top corner is still intact but no screw - opens up a lot of potential in these cases. The 280 in front on push (I did have to move the case divider over about 1/2" to get that 280 GTS in there) and the 240 GTS in the top really does a great job keeping the temps in check.

I run the fans off the temp probe in the GPU block, you can just see it above the PSU, and looping Heaven at 5GHz CPU/2100MHz GPU never got above 39C. Just killer performance, and that was with the side panel on.



And yeah, no color or dye. My case doesn't even have a window on this side, nobody will ever see the inside but you guys.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> I am considering doing a full loop on my Core 500 as well if ever I find the time.


Honestly, if I were to water cool with my Core 500, I'd just go external rad/pump/res with only the blocks on the inside with a few quick disconnects to make bleeding easier.

But that's mostly so I could use a either a MORA or a 480/560 rad with 1200rpm or lower fans and keep a 6600k/1080ti cool and quiet, and moving the pump and louder fans farther away from me than the case or make some sound dampening baffles to really kill the noise.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Death Bomb Finished.

I finished up the last few things on this build. I did a similar thing on my Corsair 550D, the open top when running a radiator up top looked unfinished, so I cut the top panel to allow just the rad area to be open and then glued a screen in the opening.

Here's the same treatment on the Nano S top panel.
Here it is open. Just looks unfinished and hot air coming up the right side gets sucked right back into the rad.



Here it is after I cut the hole and added the screen. There's a small neo magnet on the left rear corner, and the front two tabs are still in place to hold the front down. All the other tabs had to be removed.



A pic showing the new rivet locations where I had to move the internal divider plate over about 1/2" to accommodate the GTS 280 front radiator. Dust filter still in place.




I can also fit a 240 filter in the top now, under the modified top panel.





Complete.



Inside










This unassuming little mITX rig is currently in 9th place globally in Fire Strike Ultra for single card (my name on the leader board is Simpleton, my user name here brought up some strange results, only some of them were mine)

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19625107

And would be in 2nd place single card in Unigine Heaven (only beat by a 6950X rig) here if the leader board was ever updated.

https://www.overclock.net/t/1235557/official-top-30-heaven-benchmark-4-0-scores/3540#post_26057733

I posted some pics of the build/internals in This Post.

I really like the build, this is my third Fractal Design case and all of them have just turned out great.


----------



## Coldsnap

Any fellow Node 605 owners out there? What are your temps like? I knew this case would be a tad hotter. With my noctua 14s cooler and gpu running my CPU temps go to about 70*C, that's without an overclock on a delided i7 6700k intel processor. Bit toasy, but I think I'm butting up against the capabilities of the case.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I have one as my HTPC, but it's configured for quiet non-OCd 24/7 operation as opposed to trying for any performance. I added a case fan where you did, blowing on the CPU cooler, and made the fan next to that on also intake, then put the one on the other side as exhaust.

There are some pics in This Thread with the other stuff I used - the fan by the CPU cooler wasn't installed yet, I ended up using a 3 pin Noctua 120mm, I can never keep the models straight.


----------



## Coldsnap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I have one as my HTPC, but it's configured for quiet non-OCd 24/7 operation as opposed to trying for any performance. I added a case fan where you did, blowing on the CPU cooler, and made the fan next to that on also intake, then put the one on the other side as exhaust.
> 
> There are some pics in This Thread with the other stuff I used - the fan by the CPU cooler wasn't installed yet, I ended up using a 3 pin Noctua 120mm, I can never keep the models straight.


Gotcha, nice build. I'm hoping to get a mild overclock on both my CPU and GPU while keeping temps under 75*. The two 95mm Noctua fans are the exhaust and side fans will be intakes, I've bought another Noctua 120mm fan to fill that blank spaces. It's definitely the case because when I take off the lid and let it run my temps go from 70*C at load to 54*C, which makes me think the hot air isn't getting vented out well enough. I need to make a better fan profile for the exhausts and continue to test (My goal is silent PC as-well, so good fan profile is a must).

I'll post some pictures when the build is finish, just got some custom cables and I think it all should look well and tidy once I'm finished with it.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Stick another fan on the left front spot (looking from the front) as exhaust and try to suck some more hot air out. I came to the same conclusion as you did - the heat just wasn't getting out.


----------



## Coldsnap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Stick another fan on the left front spot (looking from the front) as exhaust and try to suck some more hot air out. I came to the same conclusion as you did - the heat just wasn't getting out.


Ok, will give that a shot and report back.


----------



## Lodbroke

@ Coldsnap
My Node 605 is sitting in the TV-bench.
Quite narrow spaces.
It got a i5-6600K (overclocked with some 25%) ASUS Maximus VIII Gene mATX Motherboard. 1x MSI GTX 970 GPU (blower) 1x250GB SSD+1x2TB HDD+1xslim ODD.
(The Living room comp in my signature)

Having 3 Noctua 120mm fans for air intake+PSU on the sides, while the hot air are exhausted rearward by PSU+GPU+2x80mm fans.

The comp stays silent and cool during HTPC-work, but fans is noticeable but not disturbing, when gaming and the temperature of the rises to around 50-60 degrees C.

Edit: Having a Noctua CPU Tower cooler with a 92mm fan pushing hot air towards the rear and the twin 80mm fans, while feeded by the 120mm fans with cool air...
Replaced all Fractal Design fans with Noctua ditto's for PWM control by the motherboard.


----------



## Lodbroke

@ Coldsnap
I think it's your box CPU-cooler that is the culprit of your extreme temps.
It would work well if there was fan grilles in the top. but there are none.

Extra 120mm fans for cool air intake and having them all controlled by the motherboard.
And using the rear as exhaust for all hot air.


----------



## Coldsnap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lodbroke*
> 
> @ Coldsnap
> I think it's your box CPU-cooler that is the culprit of your extreme temps.
> It would work well if there was fan grilles in the top. but there are none.
> 
> Extra 120mm fans for cool air intake and having them all controlled by the motherboard.
> And using the rear as exhaust for all hot air.


I think it's the CPU cooler as-well. This one was suppose to be very good, but I suppose not the right setup in my PC. My thinking was with the big 140mm fan on the heatsink it would really move some air, but air doesn't seem to be circulating through the radiators enough. My friend has this CPU cooler in his Fractal Design Nano S and it works very well. I've got all noctua fans coming, going to try to fan placement and test. But I might just resort to buying a Noctua NH D9L and an additional fran to grab cool air from the front of the CPU cooler.


----------



## becks

Hi guys,

Any of the owners of a *Fractal Design Define Nano S* in here that can take some measurements for me please ?
I want to know how much clearance there is in the top and front for a 60 mm tick 240 radiator + fans....
Basically I am looking to see if there is at least 87 mm (Minimum) - 95 mm (Ideal) from top of the case to the Motherboard and how much is that 87 mm -95 mm going in on the front radiator...
I am using a Maximus VIII Impact motherboard which has the power raiser card so I have to take that into consideration as well for the top rad...
And I am looking at buying a 1080 ti so I have to be careful of that as well when I take into consideration the front radiator...

Many thanks


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I posted a reply in your other identical query in the SFF forum.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I posted a reply in your other identical query in the SFF forum.


Wasn't sure where the Fractal people are








replied to you there..


----------



## AngryLobster

I'm looking to use a True Spirit 140 Power (171mm) in a Define C. They list the non window clearance at 170mm.

Anyone think it would fit?


----------



## frostbite

Do you have the cooler?

If you do just test it, but be sure to mask the area where the pipe tops are likely to touch


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> I'm looking to use a True Spirit 140 Power (171mm) in a Define C. They list the non window clearance at 170mm.
> 
> Anyone think it would fit?


If it's the windowless Define C I think it will technically fit, but it will leave impressions on the foam. If you already have it, mask the foam with tape to protect it and try it. If you don't, grab the TS-140, TRUE Spirit 140 Direct, Macho Rev. B, or Macho Direct. Any of those are fantastic coolers!


----------



## mnemo_05

recieved these awesome cables from a buddy i met online, very good quality at 1/3 the price compared to moddiy and cut to the length the I really need








these ultra thin sata cables are a lot harder to manage than i thought lol








and the snake pit is gone

















7-inch 24-pin
14-inch 4+4-pin
9-inch pcie 6+2-pin
17-inch Sata Power, 3-inch interval


----------



## mnemo_05

only problem i have now if that my grid+v2 once again is not seen my the cam sw, cant control the fans







they are just spinning at fixed 40%.. and all i did was redo the cables.. haaaizt


----------



## AngryLobster

Quick update.

The True Spirit 140 Power fits in a Define C (non window) no problem. It's close but the heat pipes don't even touch the cloth material of the side panel. Glad it worked out as Fractal is usually conservative with it's #'s. I think true height limit is closer to 173mm.


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Any of the owners of a *Fractal Design Define Nano S* in here that can take some measurements for me please ?
> I want to know how much clearance there is in the top and front for a 60 mm tick 240 radiator + fans....
> Basically I am looking to see if there is at least 87 mm (Minimum) - 95 mm (Ideal) from top of the case to the Motherboard and how much is that 87 mm -95 mm going in on the front radiator...
> I am using a Maximus VIII Impact motherboard which has the power raiser card so I have to take that into consideration as well for the top rad...
> And I am looking at buying a 1080 ti so I have to be careful of that as well when I take into consideration the front radiator...
> 
> Many thanks


Hey becks! I don't know if you've got already an answer or not so here are some measurements:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Mine is a Define C, the only difference is the height but from the top of the motherboard to the top of the case it's the same.

I'm planning to buy some case fans for my Define C. I have a Phanteks PH-TC14PE cooler with PH-F140HP II fans that have 68.1 CFM and 1.62mm H2O. My question is what case fans would be a good match for this cooler to supply enough fresh air? I was thinking about the TY-147 (A/B/SQ) or maybe PH-F140XP.

How restrictive is that air filter on the front of the case? Does it benefit from more airflow or more static pressure?


----------



## mnemo_05

****! I have seen threads after threads of Grid+ V2 not being seen on the NZXT's CAM software here and on different forums. I found the so called "bug" on my system.

hacked this and the connection never dropped.. the board is not close enough to the side of the enclosure to secure the connection.. smh


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*


Hey buddy, nope... nobody really replied with a proper "its 3 cm there and 12 there" but I pulled the trigger anyhow and bought the case









Thank you for giving the measurements you deserve a rep for effort..
The problem with my top rad is not only the distance between the top and the motherboard but also the distance between the raiser card and the side of the case...so I'm in really tight spot at the moment..
Will report back in couple of days when I have the motherboard back and actually try and put it in...

In regards to Fans...I only use Noctua 3000 Industrial .... tried like 12 fans...but still went back to them and I will forever use only Noctua.
In UK I can get them for $21 which is cheap compared to what other companies offer...
5 years warranty...
Water / Dust resistant...
140 Rpm up to 3000 Rpm...
Only 25 mm thick...
Classic black...(You can buy the silicon anti vibration corners in whatever color you want to match it with your build)
Both Air pressure and Air flow optimized fans...
...I can go on and on and on...


----------



## dirtyred

You're welcome! I hope the RMA goes well!

Noctua is ugly as hell with that baby poop colour. The redux editions look pretty cool actually and seem to be really good in both airflow and static pressure. The industrial would be overkill and probably too noisy for my taste. I prefer the sound of silence. Also a bit expensive to what I'd pay especially when you look at Thermalright TY 147A.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> You're welcome! I hope the RMA goes well!
> 
> Noctua is ugly as hell with that baby poop colour. The redux editions look pretty cool actually and seem to be really good in both airflow and static pressure. The industrial would be overkill and probably too noisy for my taste. I prefer the sound of silence. Also a bit expensive to what I'd pay especially when you look at Thermalright TY 147A.


Look at my post here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*


I ended up testing 12 - 15 fans...Noctua is not laud at all when you consider it has same performance at 900-1000 RPM as a Thermalright at max...
And is more silent at 900-1000 RPM than a Thermalright at max...

But fans are a matter of Taste...so i don't comment any further...

They are not ugly at all...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







And they have both 120 and 140 mm sizes and both sizes come in 2 flavors Air flow and Air pressure..
Also the silicon inserts on the corners can be taken down or changed for whatever color you want...


----------



## dirtyred

The more I look at the redux pictures and review the more compelling they are. I really don't want 2-3000 RPM in my house as when the PC overheats under high OC the BIOS will push it to max RPM and there's no way to limit it with other than some adapter (more cost). When I don't OC for competition I do moderate OC and the limit is the noise level. I like to keep my PC pretty silent and preferably inaudible from a few meters over performance.

Will check the shop next to me as they sell Noctua's (not sure if they have on stock or have to order) and get a few to try them out. I can always return them if I don't like them but I believe they can't sound worse than my current Phanteks PH-F140HP II fans (I'd like to get some old ones but can't find any).


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> The more I look at the redux pictures and review the more compelling they are. I really don't want 2-3000 RPM in my house as when the PC overheats under high OC the BIOS will push it to max RPM and there's no way to limit it with other than some adapter (more cost). When I don't OC for competition I do moderate OC and the limit is the noise level. I like to keep my PC pretty silent and preferably inaudible from a few meters over performance.
> 
> Will check the shop next to me as they sell Noctua's (not sure if they have on stock or have to order) and get a few to try them out. I can always return them if I don't like them but I believe they can't sound worse than my current Phanteks PH-F140HP II fans (I'd like to get some old ones but can't find any).


Redux is they'r entry "budget" fans ...have not used them so I don't know..only used normal and industrial fans from them.....
With my Asus board I could "Cap" the Fans... using the Fan curve in Bios (Set on DC mode) so that they only go up until a point....

Also you could use something like this: http://noctua.at/en/na-src7
Cheap and sturdy..


----------



## dirtyred

I don't think the Redux are budget fans as they are priced the same here. I think the only difference is the colour as the fan blade design and performance is the same. Only difference is the lack of extras which I don't really need anyways.

In BIOS I can lower the RPM below 75 °C but above that it gets overridden and goes to 100%.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> I don't think the Redux are budget fans as they are priced the same here. I think the only difference is the colour as the fan blade design and performance is the same. Only difference is the lack of extras which I don't really need anyways.
> 
> In BIOS I can lower the RPM below 75 °C but above that it gets overridden and goes to 100%.


I don't know how prices are in HU but i'm telling you Noctua Redux fan series are based on older and some discontinued models and they are their "budget" low cost fans...


----------



## dirtyred

Yeah you're right, checked a bit deeper. The bearing is SSO instead of SSO2. I don't think that matters much if the fans are silent and perform the same as the poop coloured ones.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> Yeah you're right, checked a bit deeper. The bearing is SSO instead of SSO2. I don't think that matters much if the fans are silent and perform the same as the poop coloured ones.


Take the Black one man...take the Black one if you don't like the poop color ...

Redux is they'r budget line...that means...
-different color
-lower performance
-lower life-span
-lower price...

And I have no experience with them so I know nothing of performance.. or expectations..


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> And I have no experience with them so I know nothing of performance.. or expectations..


I've been running them for years, no issues here.

And here's a pic from the Nano S thread. This is a 30mm 240 rad in the top of a Nano S. You can see the distance from the bottom of the rad to the top of the mobo. Maybe a couple of mm.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> The more I look at the redux pictures and review the more compelling they are. I really don't want 2-3000 RPM in my house as when the PC overheats under high OC the BIOS will push it to max RPM and there's no way to limit it with other than some adapter (more cost). When I don't OC for competition I do moderate OC and the limit is the noise level. I like to keep my PC pretty silent and preferably inaudible from a few meters over performance.
> 
> Will check the shop next to me as they sell Noctua's (not sure if they have on stock or have to order) and get a few to try them out. I can always return them if I don't like them but I believe they can't sound worse than my current Phanteks PH-F140HP II fans (I'd like to get some old ones but can't find any).


You should grab the Phanteks PH-F140MP series, they're great rad and case fans. PWM ceiling is 1600RPM at 100% and they've got a pretty low RPM limit of about 600 ± 250 RPM so they get real quiet. If you're able to get the TY-147A SQ (square) edition those are great fans too!


----------



## dirtyred

I don't know much about the MP series but the new HP II series look exactly the same, same blade design, same specs just different bracket. The HP II sounds terrible, it's loud and has an annoying buzzing sound above 900 RPM. I'm terribly disappointed in the stock fans of my TC14PE cooler.

SPRC just confirms exactly the same experience that I had: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1438-page7.html

I'm not concerned that much about low RPM noise, what is more important to me is the high RPM noise level because the fans ramp up many times even when browsing. I'm have a medium OC 7700K at 4.8 GHz.


----------



## lb_felipe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> Quick update.
> 
> The True Spirit 140 Power fits in a Define C (non window) no problem. It's close but the heat pipes don't even touch the cloth material of the side panel. Glad it worked out as Fractal is usually conservative with it's #'s. I think true height limit is closer to 173mm.


Would it fit in a Define C with an AM4 motherboard?

I ask that because I do not know wether thickness from surface a Ryzen CPU in an AM4 motherboard is the same or higher than yours CPU in your motherboard.

By the way, what's your rig?


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lb_felipe*
> 
> Would it fit in a Define C with an AM4 motherboard?
> 
> I ask that because I do not know wether thickness from surface a Ryzen CPU in an AM4 motherboard is the same or higher than yours CPU in your motherboard.
> 
> By the way, what's your rig?


Should fit without any issue. The Phanteks PH-TC14PE is the same hight and fit without any problems in my Define C (non windowed). I still have about 1-1.5 cm clearance. The AM4 shouldn't be that much higher than a 1151 one.


----------



## AngryLobster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lb_felipe*
> 
> Would it fit in a Define C with an AM4 motherboard?
> 
> I ask that because I do not know wether thickness from surface a Ryzen CPU in an AM4 motherboard is the same or higher than yours CPU in your motherboard.
> 
> By the way, what's your rig?


I'm using it with a X370/1700.

Right now I'm testing Temps and see a 4C/250RPM difference between side panel on and off with my 1080Ti. Even when I max my case fans it has a really neglible impact on temps so it seems it's just a by product of the cases small volume.

Way better than the S340 Elite I moved from. Fractal knows how to design a intake because my NF-A14s made some horrendous turbulent noise due to the S340s intake mounts proximity to the dust filter and front panel + they vibrated the case/desk.

All of that's gone with the Define C using the same exact fans and temps are better.

Still gotta find a way to drop the GPU 4C because the additional 250RPM brings it to annoying territory.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> I'm using it with a X370/1700.
> 
> Right now I'm testing Temps and see a 4C/250RPM difference between side panel on and off with my 1080Ti. Even when I max my case fans it has a really neglible impact on temps so it seems it's just a by product of the cases small volume.
> 
> Way better than the S340 Elite I moved from. Fractal knows how to design a intake because my NF-A14s made some horrendous turbulent noise due to the S340s intake mounts proximity to the dust filter and front panel + they vibrated the case/desk.
> 
> All of that's gone with the Define C using the same exact fans and temps are better.
> 
> Still gotta find a way to drop the GPU 4C because the additional 250RPM brings it to annoying territory.


Whenever I experience something like this I try to think outside of the box and switch fans around ...switch from intake to exhaust and so on...worth experimenting


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> Still gotta find a way to drop the GPU 4C because the additional 250RPM brings it to annoying territory.


If your GPU tends to ride the border for ramping up on the default fan curve, you might try using Afterburner or something similar to set a custom curve with a slightly higher threshold around those temps. If the extra 4-5C causes throttling, you might alternatively try lowering the temp threshold to see if the fan speeds stay a bit more constant. I've found in many cases that it's not the sound level itself that's distracting so much as the continuous change in sound level from temps straddling a certain threshold in a preset fan curve.


----------



## Dimensive

Fractal Design launch new Focus G Series: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/fractal-design-launch-new-focus-g-series

Guru3D Review: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/fractal-design-focus-g-review,1.html


----------



## Tesla101

Hi all, quick question on the fractal mini c. Can the HDD brackets and divider all be removed in the psu shroud to allow a 200mm PSU to fit? Thanks


----------



## Coldsnap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Look at my post here:
> I ended up testing 12 - 15 fans...Noctua is not laud at all when you consider it has same performance at 900-1000 RPM as a Thermalright at max...
> And is more silent at 900-1000 RPM than a Thermalright at max...
> 
> But fans are a matter of Taste...so i don't comment any further...
> 
> They are not ugly at all...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And they have both 120 and 140 mm sizes and both sizes come in 2 flavors Air flow and Air pressure..
> Also the silicon inserts on the corners can be taken down or changed for whatever color you want...


I bought 5 of the black industrial version and they all had a loud audible buzz under 1,600RMP. Every. One. Turned them back, the beige ones are much quieter.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldsnap*
> 
> I bought 5 of the black industrial version and they all had a loud audible buzz under 1,600RMP. Every. One. Turned them back, the beige ones are much quieter.


I can make a video of mine going at 250 RPM with no buzz....PWN or DC mode ? 3 or 4 pin cable ? 2000 or 3000 RPM fans ?


----------



## Coldsnap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> I can make a video of mine going at 250 RPM with no buzz....PWN or DC mode ? 3 or 4 pin cable ? 2000 or 3000 RPM fans ?


It was three NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM and one NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM. Got a set from NewEgg and they all buzzed. Thought maybe I got a bad batch, so ordered them all again from Amazon and they buzzed too. I tried PWM and DC, anything under 1,600 buzzed. Thought this was really weird so I checked some Amazon reviews and saw some mentions of it. Seems like they are meant to be run at high RPM.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldsnap*
> 
> It was three NF-F12 iPPC 2000 PWM and one NF-A14 iPPC-2000 PWM. Got a set from NewEgg and they all buzzed. Thought maybe I got a bad batch, so ordered them all again from Amazon and they buzzed too. I tried PWM and DC, anything under 1,600 buzzed. Thought this was really weird so I checked some Amazon reviews and saw some mentions of it. Seems like they are meant to be run at high RPM.


Just strange, using 4 of those NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWN right now...with zero buzz at low speeds, there's a hum at 3000 but that's expected at that speed and specs...

EDIT: did you had the IP67 variant or the normal one ? (the 24V)


----------



## Coldsnap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Just strange, using 4 of those NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWN right now...with zero buzz at low speeds, there's a hum at 3000 but that's expected at that speed and specs...
> 
> EDIT: did you had the IP67 variant or the normal one ? (the 24V)


They were the normal 24V. That is strange. Maybe I got very unlucky.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldsnap*
> 
> They were the normal 24V. That is strange. Maybe I got very unlucky.


I have the 12v ones, not IP67...there are 2 variants, PWN 3000 24v (IP67) and PWN 3000 12v ....

Check here: http://noctua.at/en/products/fan


----------



## odnilB

Hello. Can anyone with a Define Mini C tell me the measurement from the PSU shroud to the top expansion slot and from the side to the expansion slots?


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odnilB*
> 
> Hello. Can anyone with a Define Mini C tell me the measurement from the PSU shroud to the top expansion slot and from the side to the expansion slots?


Expansion slot? Not sure what you mean. But on my Define C the motherboard almost toughes the shroud, around 5 mm distance only. The distance between my ATX motherboard's top edge and the top of the case is around 3 cm. So, the height is around 5 + 305 (motherboard) + 30 = 340 mm. I'm pretty sure the same calculation can be done in the Define Mini C as well: 5 + 244 + 30 = 279 mm ~ 28 cm.


----------



## odnilB

Like THIS, where the green lines are.


----------



## dirtyred

Oh, for some reason I was thinking about 3.5" expansions... Silly me!

So, from side to slots it's 7 cm, and from top to bottom around 16 cm for 7 slots, so for the Define Mini C's 5 slot that would be around 11.5 cm.


----------



## coccosoids

Has anyone else had issues with Define S where possibly vibrations from other components make the entire case emit a UTTERLY annoying sound?
I think it's because of the thin sheet metal - but if I press really hard on some spots, especially the radiator I can tone it down a little - however I am not sure what to do about it long term...


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coccosoids*
> 
> Has anyone else had issues with Define S where possibly vibrations from other components make the entire case emit a UTTERLY annoying sound?
> I think it's because of the thin sheet metal - but if I press really hard on some spots, especially the radiator I can tone it down a little - however I am not sure what to do about it long term...


First make sure its the case, and not the fans...
Secondly.if its not the fans, and applying pressure to the radiator fixes the problem, try using some plastic/rubber washers when you mount that component...


----------



## dirtyred

As becks tells you. Probably it's because of vibrations caused by the fans. The case is well made, not really thin cheap metal but even if it would be made out of thicker sheets, the vibrations would be present, maybe even worse (louder or higher pitch). Try to use silicone/rubber washers (plastic is too rigid, could transmit vibrations) between the case and the radiator and rubber plugs for mounting the fans on the radiator. Rubber strips between fans/radiator/case can help, you can try even with household rubber bands by cutting them.


----------



## coccosoids

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> First make sure its the case, and not the fans...
> Secondly.if its not the fans, and applying pressure to the radiator fixes the problem, try using some plastic/rubber washers when you mount that component...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> As becks tells you. Probably it's because of vibrations caused by the fans. The case is well made, not really thin cheap metal but even if it would be made out of thicker sheets, the vibrations would be present, maybe even worse (louder or higher pitch). Try to use silicone/rubber washers (plastic is too rigid, could transmit vibrations) between the case and the radiator and rubber plugs for mounting the fans on the radiator. Rubber strips between fans/radiator/case can help, you can try even with household rubber bands by cutting them.


Thank you both.

It is the case.

I investigated further and it is indeed the case - if I lift and hold the radiator in my hands the rhythmic grind is gone. If I place the radiator down, standing on the floor of the case the grind comes back but much much diminished. If however I suspend the radiator on the front, with screws - the sound I am speaking of is much more present and amplified. I believe it is a resonance thing - the whole case acts as an amplifier of some of the vibrations coming off from the fans.

This brings me to another point: to mount the radiator in the front with as little interference as possible can I get some specialized screws or otherwise from a computer store? Those rubber washers - can I find those in a computer store or do I need to look for them in a 'hardware' store. The only thing easily available in stores in my region are the mounting screws from Noctua's - Chromax line - but I don't think they are what I need here.

PS: thinking also about going push / pull on this radiator to further combat noise - does anyone have any positive experiences with an EK slim radiator mounted in push / pull config in the front a Define S case?


----------



## AlphaC

Hey Fractal Design owners, I'm just trying to figure out if anyone actually buys the "Focus G"

The I/O is puzzling to me. Why release a case in 2017 with a USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 instead of 2 of each or both USB 3.0? even if going with a Pentium on the LGA1151 platform you have USB 3.0 headers.

https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/fractal-design-focus-g-review,1.html

Seems like continuation of the Core 1000 (and aesthetically close to the Corsair Graphite Series 230T)

At the $50 pricepoint , assuming you need external 5.25" bays, they need to compete with the cheapo cases like Corsair's Spec-02 , Cooler Master N300 / N400 (old), less established players such as the Rosewill / DIYPC cases , and also the often discounted Phanteks Enthoo Pro M and sometimes Silverstone RL05 / PS13.

edit: see also https://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2017/05/24/fractal-design-focus-g-mini-review/1
https://www.kitguru.net/components/leo-waldock/fractal-design-focus-g-atx-case-review/
http://www.hw4all.com/test-review-fractal-design-focus-g/


----------



## dirtyred

I know Noctua makes some rubber mounts and you only need those for the fans. The radiator can and should be mounted by regular screws. Or just put rubber band between the fans and the radiator, will be better than nothing. Push/pull could allow lower fan RPM reducing noise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Hey Fractal Design owners, I'm just trying to figure out if anyone actually buys the "Focus G"
> 
> The I/O is puzzling to me. Why release a case in 2017 with a USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 instead of 2 of each or both USB 3.0? even if going with a Pentium on the LGA1151 platform you have USB 3.0 headers.
> 
> https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/fractal-design-focus-g-review,1.html
> 
> Seems like continuation of the Core 1000 (and aesthetically close to the Corsair Graphite Series 230T)
> 
> At the $50 pricepoint , assuming you need external 5.25" bays, they need to compete with the cheapo cases like Corsair's Spec-02 , Cooler Master N300 / N400 (old), less established players such as the Rosewill / DIYPC cases , and also the often discounted Phanteks Enthoo Pro M and sometimes Silverstone RL05 / PS13.


I really don't get that case. It seems like another Core series. Still USB 2.0 and optical drives (I haven't since roughly 5-6 years) in 2017? If bugdet oriented then why have a windowed panel (nobody will be prouding with budget CPU's and GPU's)? If it has windowed panel, why no PSU shroud (is it really that expensive to manufacture)? I don't feel that this case is bringing anything new that's not on the market already.


----------



## poinguan

I have the R5 case with 2x 14cm front intake fans and 1x 14cm rear exhaust fan. I'm planning to add on 2x more intake fans at the bottom position. Is this too much (and bad idea)? The top will remain closed by the moduvent panels.


----------



## dirtyred

Adding more fans is never a bad idea.


----------



## Lodbroke

The Focus G seems to be replacements for the Core-series, or at the very least some of the Core-models.
There are probably some trade-off because of the price range.
The Focus G Mini is an all respects an update of the Core 1300.

If any one wants more of everything there are the Definition-series to go for.

Still what does G stand for in Focus G? Will there be other Focus models coming?

*For me!*
*Having a 5.25 optical disk in the computer is a must*
Still it would be nice if the next case had a door in the front, like the Definition-series.
...And in a colour other than black, preferably White!


----------



## Dimensive

I felt the same way about the Focus series being a replacement for the Core series. By the way, the Focus G is in black, white, blue, and red.


----------



## Ithanul

I do this when I need an optical disc drive. Open side, hook up drive, and go.


O, yeah, forgot. I finally got my [email protected]/BOINC rig into this case. Not finish yet. Temp setup until I finish with the main rig (again) and get the X79 ready to drop into this case.


----------



## yraith

I just bought the Fractal define C.. And yep, no front side 3.5 for disk drives.. What is a guy supposed to do if he buys a blu-ray player for his PC? Loving the case.. Nice, black, and quiet.


----------



## fleetfeather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> What is a guy supposed to do if he buys a blu-ray player for his PC?


He's supposed to go back to 2012


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> What is a guy supposed to do if he buys a blu-ray player for his PC?


Go external


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> He's supposed to go back to 2012


Some of us use these things to rip media to a central storage, having a drive certainly makes that easier - or even possible.


----------



## serave

Can someone confirm whether the Define Mini C will be able to house an R9 290X with the Prolimatech MK-26 heatsink?

Been eyeing the case for a quite sometime now but haven't pulled the trigger yet due to the said question above, also its pretty expensive in my place ($120~) so yeah any help is appreciated


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> I know Noctua makes some rubber mounts and you only need those for the fans. The radiator can and should be mounted by regular screws. Or just put rubber band between the fans and the radiator, will be better than nothing. Push/pull could allow lower fan RPM reducing noise.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Hey Fractal Design owners, I'm just trying to figure out if anyone actually buys the "Focus G"
> 
> The I/O is puzzling to me. Why release a case in 2017 with a USB 3.0 and USB 2.0 instead of 2 of each or both USB 3.0? even if going with a Pentium on the LGA1151 platform you have USB 3.0 headers.
> 
> https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/fractal-design-focus-g-review,1.html
> 
> Seems like continuation of the Core 1000 (and aesthetically close to the Corsair Graphite Series 230T)
> 
> At the $50 pricepoint , assuming you need external 5.25" bays, they need to compete with the cheapo cases like Corsair's Spec-02 , Cooler Master N300 / N400 (old), less established players such as the Rosewill / DIYPC cases , and also the often discounted Phanteks Enthoo Pro M and sometimes Silverstone RL05 / PS13.
> 
> 
> 
> I really don't get that case. It seems like another Core series. Still USB 2.0 and optical drives (I haven't since roughly 5-6 years) in 2017? If bugdet oriented then why have a windowed panel (nobody will be prouding with budget CPU's and GPU's)? If it has windowed panel, why no PSU shroud (is it really that expensive to manufacture)? I don't feel that this case is bringing anything new that's not on the market already.
Click to expand...

no psu shround on the Define R5 too. Sigh.


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> no psu shround on the Define R5 too. Sigh.


That's a 2 years old case, wasn't in fashion that much as it is today. But missing it on the Define S was a bit disappointing. I'm happy that they caught up with the trend and made it for the Define C.
I might be harsh but I'm a maximalist. I always expect more from everyone including myself. That's the mentality you need to always improve. If you're satisfied with less, it won't drive you forward. And I expect alot from Fractal Design because the quality is great, the design language is modern minimalist (I like it) but the little things (like a shroud, easy to remove dust filter from the bottom, modularity, etc) makes a product stand out from other great products. Or the price because you can't have everything


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yraith*
> 
> I just bought the Fractal define C.. And yep, no front side 3.5 for disk drives.. What is a guy supposed to do if he buys a blu-ray player for his PC? Loving the case.. Nice, black, and quiet.


To be honest, that's probably something you should have noticed _before_ you bought the case. That said, grab an external. They're inexpensive and still pretty fast!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Some of us use these things to rip media to a central storage, having a drive certainly makes that easier - or even possible.


Then don't buy a case without them, there are plenty to choose from!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Then don't buy a case without them, there are plenty to choose from!


Awesome!


----------



## Tahlzair

Build complete!



Initially, I used the stock cables that came with the RM650x but was uncomfortable with the bends required for the 24- and 8-pin power cables as they were stiffer than expected, plus having those capacitors near the end. Switched over to Cablemod Modflex and am very hapoy with the result!

Very easy case to build in, even for a first-timer. Just need to avoid those long PSUs if you want to retain the use of the HDD trays.


----------



## Coldsnap

Done!

Fractal Node 605
i7-6700k delidded
Noctua NH-U9S
Asus Z170-A
G. Skill TridentZ 16GB 3200 CAS14
Asus Strix 1070 Smokey Edition
Seasonic 650 Titanium
Intel 600p 512GB M.2
2x Noctua NF-F12 intake, 2x Noctua NF-A9 exhaust
Cablemod cables
Quote:


>


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldsnap*
> 
> Done!
> 
> Fractal Node 605
> i7-6700k delidded
> Noctua NH-U9S
> Asus Z170-A
> G. Skill TridentZ 16GB 3200 CAS14
> Asus Strix 1070 Smokey Edition
> Seasonic 650 Titanium
> Intel 600p 512GB M.2
> 2x Noctua NF-F12 intake, 2x Noctua NF-A9 exhaust
> Cablemod cables


Don't see many 605 builds around here. Very nice!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I put my 605 build in the HTPC forum. It's been quietly doing its thing ever since


----------



## serave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> Can someone confirm whether the Define Mini C will be able to house an R9 290X with the Prolimatech MK-26 heatsink?
> 
> Been eyeing the case for a quite sometime now but haven't pulled the trigger yet due to the said question above, also its pretty expensive in my place ($120~) so yeah any help is appreciated


Shameless bump


----------



## AngryLobster

Yes it will fit. There's just a bit over 170mm in CPU clearance so the width of the MK-26 is not an issue.


----------



## AngryLobster

I found the solution to my poor GPU temps in my Define C. So when using 180w or lower TDP cards like the 1080, there was very little variance between side panel on and off. I tested this with a 1080 which was like 2C and maybe 50-100RPM different as well as a 1060 which showed almost no difference. Soon as I did this with my 1080 Ti though there was a solid 5C and almost 300RPM difference between side panel on and off.

I removed the PCI Slot covers which are almost solid and it brought the difference closer to that of the vanilla 1080 which I'm now satisfied with. Who knew they had such a huge impact on temperatures inside the case. I can feel warm air evacuating from the area when gaming.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I think it's Doyll who is a big proponent of removing those pci slot covers, glad to hear it made a difference for you


----------



## d0mmie

Does anyone know if the Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 280mm Radiator will fit in front of a R5 case with the ports pointing at the bottom of the case? I'm really unsure if there's enough clearance. I know that I could just buy a Define S and that would solve that issue, but it's just that I'd like to have a white case.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryLobster*
> 
> I found the solution to my poor GPU temps in my Define C. So when using 180w or lower TDP cards like the 1080, there was very little variance between side panel on and off. I tested this with a 1080 which was like 2C and maybe 50-100RPM different as well as a 1060 which showed almost no difference. Soon as I did this with my 1080 Ti though there was a solid 5C and almost 300RPM difference between side panel on and off.
> 
> I removed the PCI Slot covers which are almost solid and it brought the difference closer to that of the vanilla 1080 which I'm now satisfied with. Who knew they had such a huge impact on temperatures inside the case. I can feel warm air evacuating from the area when gaming.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I think it's Doyll who is a big proponent of removing those pci slot covers, glad to hear it made a difference for you


doyll told me about that a while ago and it makes a huge difference. I try to pass that knowledge along as much as I can! Obviously it's a technique for cards with aftermarket coolers.


----------



## ninogui

Hi guys

I am leaning towards the Define C instead of the Define S, but I have the arctic liquid freezer 240 push-pull with 4 fans for a front mount. This means 88mm / 3.4" of total thickness (38mm + 2x25mm give or take a couple mm)
Now I know on Define S this will fit perfectly with room to spare but will this setup fit in the Define C ? (top mount with this push-pull config is a no go)

thks


----------



## dirtyred

My GPU's lenght is roughly the width of the motherboard. From the front of the case to the GPU there's roughly 12 cm so 88 mm will fit. The only possible issue I see is the 24 pin motherboard cabling be in the way so you might have to bend it and/or route it throught the top holes of the case or use custom cabling.

The Define C is a better case in my opinion with rear wents next to the expansion slots while the Define S is missing it. This is mostly important for the GPU's hot air to get out easier. Also the Define C has a PSU cover so it looks much cleaner.

The key advantage of the Define S is it's size. 2 cm wider, 5 cm taller and 8 cm longer so it's a bit better for custom water cooling but it's manageable in the Define C as well. Check out this: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/case-modding/define-c-modding-series


----------



## Earthman

Hi folks!
I'm interested in Define C case, but im not sure if Dark Rock ADVANCED C1 cooler will fit?

Define C specs:
CPU coolers up to *170*mm in height

Be quiet! site says:
Overall dimensions *without* mounting material (L x W x H), (mm) 95 x 122 x *166*
http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/235

Anyone have this cooler? How tall that mounting materials are? It will fit properly into Define C?


----------



## dirtyred

The Phanteks PH-TC14PE did fit in my non-windowed case and the heatsink is 160 mm, with fans 171 mm high and I still have some room left so the C1 in theory it should fit.

The mounting material goes in the back of the motherboard and under the CPU's height while the heatsink sits on the CPU and the fans are smaller than on the Phanteks so overall height will be 166 mm.


----------



## mablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> doyll told me about that a while ago and it makes a huge difference. I try to pass that knowledge along as much as I can! Obviously it's a technique for cards with aftermarket coolers.


Removed them as well after 4 years in place on my R2. 3 degree temp drop on gpu! Mind blow! First thing i'm doing on the new Ryzen and Define C is removing those covers


----------



## ninogui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> My GPU's lenght is roughly the width of the motherboard. From the front of the case to the GPU there's roughly 12 cm so 88 mm will fit. The only possible issue I see is the 24 pin motherboard cabling be in the way so you might have to bend it and/or route it throught the top holes of the case or use custom cabling.
> 
> The Define C is a better case in my opinion with rear wents next to the expansion slots while the Define S is missing it. This is mostly important for the GPU's hot air to get out easier. Also the Define C has a PSU cover so it looks much cleaner.
> 
> The key advantage of the Define S is it's size. 2 cm wider, 5 cm taller and 8 cm longer so it's a bit better for custom water cooling but it's manageable in the Define C as well. Check out this: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/case-modding/define-c-modding-series


thks for the post but none of those very nice mods includes a stacked 240 rad with 4 fans. Probably it will never fit a fractal C. And the shroud of course looks much better but half the flow of the lower fan is going nowhere.

I guess I´ll stick to a fractal S. Rad on top front plus a fan down below, I´ll build a metal ramp on the back of the power supply so the air goes up instead of sticking in that lower area. Only thing I will miss is a fan controller but that can be inserted, as well as a top filter if necessary so to be able to insert one single fan on back top helping to push air out.

Any other thoughts ?


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninogui*
> 
> thks for the post but none of those very nice mods includes a stacked 240 rad with 4 fans. Probably it will never fit a fractal C. And the shroud of course looks much better but half the flow of the lower fan is going nowhere.
> 
> I guess I´ll stick to a fractal S. Rad on top front plus a fan down below, I´ll build a metal ramp on the back of the power supply so the air goes up instead of sticking in that lower area. Only thing I will miss is a fan controller but that can be inserted, as well as a top filter if necessary so to be able to insert one single fan on back top helping to push air out.
> 
> Any other thoughts ?


I'm pretty sure your rad would fit in the Define C according to measurements. It would be a tight fit but it would. The lower fan is very useful, it's pushing hot air away that the GPU is generating. If you put a fan on the top I'd put it as an intake so the VRM's would get some cool air which is very important since you have an AIO that doesn't cool the area around the CPU. The hot air from the case should get out easily anyways because of the positive pressure.


----------



## ninogui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> I'm pretty sure your rad would fit in the Define C according to measurements. It would be a tight fit but it would. The lower fan is very useful, it's pushing hot air away that the GPU is generating. If you put a fan on the top I'd put it as an intake so the VRM's would get some cool air which is very important since you have an AIO that doesn't cool the area around the CPU. The hot air from the case should get out easily anyways because of the positive pressure.


sure great idea I will try the top intake as soon as I get some type of dust mesh for the top

Have a couple inserted in the active powerwalker ups (running 24/7 on noctuas with the power volt adapter) like these magnetic ones that can be cut to fit and serviced regularly
https://www.amazon.de/DEMCiflex/b/ref=bl_dp_s_web_7039475031?ie=UTF8&node=7039475031&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=DEMCiflex

I don´t know if I am up to it again (no patience rs) but on the setup (my sig) that has been running stable close to 11 years (lololol) I inserted at the time some long screws and bolts up from the motherboard with a couple of small fans over the ram and some more over the vrm

I´m jumping here because my order will be arriving some time next week, it´´s a ryzen1700/crosshair/flare x/arctic liquid/960 evo thing

only last thing undecided is still the case but unfort I have to fit in 3 hard disk so that will be that

Regularly I rip cd´s to flac so with the S the internal plextor drive will have to stand on top of the case, cables fed from the inside through empty slot

which brings me to this 3d printing thingy... anyone ever ordered or 3d printed some type of fan support for the crosshair VI ? I do believe this is possible or is it just a gimmick no one ever tried ? lol


----------



## Icydead

Hey guys, wanted to show you my Define S summer front mod I just finished working on. Better temps inbound.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icydead*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, wanted to show you my Define S summer front mod I just finished working on. Better temps inbound.


OMG your mod just gave me a great idea for a Define S front panel mod. How did you cut through the front plastic? Dremel? Did you tape it up, outline the cut, then Dremel it?

Looks great, I love it!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninogui*
> 
> sure great idea I will try the top intake as soon as I get some type of dust mesh for the top


Here's the mod top I did on the Define Nano S. Cut the plastic out, painted window screen black and glued it in the opening. Small magnet holds the back down, dust screen over the intake area.


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serave*
> 
> Shameless bump


@serave! Serave....

I have no idea. I put a Raijintek Morpheus, which is more compact I believe, in my C mini. But I might try to borrowy brother's Prolimatech, if I have time next week.

If you haven't buy the MK26, the Morpheus is worth a try - fits like a glove in the Mini C on my STRIX 980.


----------



## Icydead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> OMG your mod just gave me a great idea for a Define S front panel mod. How did you cut through the front plastic? Dremel? Did you tape it up, outline the cut, then Dremel it?
> 
> Looks great, I love it!


Thanks!

I taped it and outlined the cut. Unfortunately I was unable to aquire Dremel so I just used a small drill and made a hole in each corner serving as starting points and then used a jigsaw with t-shank blade for wood







And man it was a mess. I guess best is to use dremel to make starting cuts and then jigsaw with bi-metal cutting blade. That way you can make the cut very straight.

Best of luck with your mode!


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Icydead*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> I taped it and outlined the cut. Unfortunately I was unable to aquire Dremel so I just used a small drill and made a hole in each corner serving as starting points and then used a jigsaw with t-shank blade for wood
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And man it was a mess. I guess best is to use dremel to make starting cuts and then jigsaw with bi-metal cutting blade. That way you can make the cut very straight.
> 
> Best of luck with your mode!


Well I have an idea, but who the heck knows if it'll ever happen. I gotta build a desk for the basement first. Time is a very, very precious commodity these days....


----------



## serave

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> @serave! Serave....
> 
> I have no idea. I put a Raijintek Morpheus, which is more compact I believe, in my C mini. But I might try to borrowy brother's Prolimatech, if I have time next week.
> 
> If you haven't buy the MK26, the Morpheus is worth a try - fits like a glove in the Mini C on my STRIX 980.


hey man thanks for the reply

i do have the MK-26 already, but i haven't bought the C mini just yet, think i'm going to a different workplace by the end of next month so i decided not to buy the case till then.

also i got the MK-26 for like $30, so i wont bother with the Morpheus. (it'll cost me around $120 for me to get one because reasons)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> @serave! Serave....
> 
> But I might try to borrowy brother's Prolimatech, if I have time next week.


let me know if you've done that


----------



## pantsaregood

Building a new PC soon and wanted use one of the Define-series cases. Out of curiosity, has anyone here attempted to use an EATX motherboard in a Define S or a Define C? It looks like clearance would be extremely tight, but like it could potentially fit.


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pantsaregood*
> 
> Building a new PC soon and wanted use one of the Define-series cases. Out of curiosity, has anyone here attempted to use an EATX motherboard in a Define S or a Define C? It looks like clearance would be extremely tight, but like it could potentially fit.


No chance. EATX is 86 mm wider, you don't have that much space between the ATX size and cable grommets.


----------



## pantsaregood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> No chance. EATX is 86 mm wider, you don't have that much space between the ATX size and cable grommets.


Guessing I'm stuck with the Define R5, then. Looks like people have managed to get EATX boards to fit in there. I'd go for the Define XL R2 if it wasn't so outdated.


----------



## Ithanul

Or be wacky like me, and take a dremel to the case.


----------



## Coldsnap

A build isn't a build until you dremmel your case


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coldsnap*
> 
> A build isn't a build until you dremmel your case


I love my dremel. Heck, I just did this to my GTX 1080Ti. I chop things up.


But yeah, my Define S is cut into to allow an EATX to fit in.


----------



## mablo

Does any one here have a Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power in a Define C? Does it fit ok, barely or not at all?

Thinking of it or a Cryorig H5 to go on a R5 1600. Thanks.


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mablo*
> 
> Does any one here have a Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power in a Define C? Does it fit ok, barely or not at all?
> 
> Thinking of it or a Cryorig H5 to go on a R5 1600. Thanks.


Should fit without any issue. Their page tells that "CPU coolers up to 170mm in height" but even my Phanteks PH-TC14PE (171 mm). The only issue was the RAM clearance, had to put one fan in the back of the tower but the middle fan caused no issues and it's not touching the side panel.


----------



## Chargeit

Hello.

I own a Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout. I'm wondering if anyone knows if this will fit a 280mm AIO cooler.

Thanks.


----------



## HZCH

I'll just leave my last upgrade/ tinkering of my Define C Mini here...






EDIT: potatoes pics, but I'm gonna get a real camera tomorrow


----------



## mnemo_05

man having a small case sure have its ups and downs

missed a very good deal on an Aorus 1080ti, that damn fat card wont fit my core 500 >.< oh well..


----------



## frostbite

How big is the card?


----------



## mnemo_05

H=55 L=293 W=142 mm as per their website, which essentially is a 3slot cooler design

my case will only allow me to use a max or 2.5 slot cooler on the GPU.. I only have about 50mm - 52mm space from the pcb of the GPU to the side panel


----------



## frostbite

I was looking into an matx case because I have to remove nearly everything to change the cpu fan

A small case is nice but has drawbacks especially when there is no tray cut out


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I own a Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout. I'm wondering if anyone knows if this will fit a 280mm AIO cooler.
> 
> Thanks.


Yes.
Do you even read the user manual?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> Yes.
> Do you even read the user manual?


Yeah I keep it right next to my collection of old beer bottles and newspapers.

For anyone else interested,

The Design Define R5 will mount a 280mm rad, but, it gets in the way of mobo as top exhaust. A 280mm rad would have to be mounted as a front intake. Pretty disappointing.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I was looking into an matx case because I have to remove nearly every to change the cpu fan
> 
> A small case is nice but has drawbacks especially when there is no tray cut out


it sure is a hassle at times, the only thing holding me back from getting an NVMe ssd ios the though that I have to almost dismantle my rig to install it. the m.2 slot is behind the mobo >.<

although it means I got a little extra money on my pocket lol


----------



## dirtyred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> it sure is a hassle at times, the only thing holding me back from getting an NVMe ssd ios the though that I have to almost dismantle my rig to install it. the m.2 slot is behind the mobo >.<
> 
> although it means I got a little extra money on my pocket lol


The whole process should not take more than 30 minutes. You just need to take out the graphics card and maybe the CPU cooler. But a good NVMe will boost the performance noticeably. I was planning on getting a Patriot Hellfire but found a Samsung 960 EVO on a discount so I went with that. Not regretting the switch from SATA SSD. Also, now I can dual boot and I keep the old SSD for testing / benchmarking keeping the main OS nice and clean.


----------



## mablo

Pretty proud of this.


----------



## Abula

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mablo*
> 
> Pretty proud of this.


are the frontal Thermaright TY140 or TY141?


----------



## mablo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abula*
> 
> are the frontal Thermaright TY140 or TY141?


They are the TY-140. Had them from a the previous computer.


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dirtyred*
> 
> The whole process should not take more than 30 minutes. You just need to take out the graphics card and maybe the CPU cooler. But a good NVMe will boost the performance noticeably. I was planning on getting a Patriot Hellfire but found a Samsung 960 EVO on a discount so I went with that. Not regretting the switch from SATA SSD. Also, now I can dual boot and I keep the old SSD for testing / benchmarking keeping the main OS nice and clean.


with my set-up, i doubt it will take just 30 minutes LOL


----------



## Swiftz

I'm going to use the Fractal Design Define Mini C for my new build but was wondering can the front panel be removed from the front to clean the dust filter or do I need to unclip it from inside the case?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftz*
> 
> I'm going to use the Fractal Design Define Mini C for my new build but was wondering can the front panel be removed from the front to clean the dust filter or do I need to unclip it from inside the case?


It looks just like the front on the Nano S. If it is, then the front pops off and the dust filter is right on the front of the case.

Here's a Review that shows the front cover removed.


----------



## Swiftz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> It looks just like the front on the Nano S. If it is, then the front pops off and the dust filter is right on the front of the case.
> 
> Here's a Review that shows the front cover removed.


I know the Mini C front panel can be removed but can I pull the front panel off from the front or do I need to push in the clips from inside the case?

As my friends Define Mini case, he has to remove the side panel and push in the 3 clips on each side that holds the front panel in to remove it.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swiftz*
> 
> I know the Mini C front panel can be removed but can I pull the front panel off from the front or do I need to push in the clips from inside the case?
> 
> As my friends Define Mini case, he has to remove the side panel and push in the 3 clips on each side that holds the front panel in to remove it.


Just slide the bottom filter out and there's a grip on the underside of the front panel to pull it straight off; no clips or anything you'll need to mess with inside the case.


----------



## equilni

@Fractal Design or anyone else.

I am interested in getting the Core 500. Can I fit a 240mm radiator (275mm long) and a 120mm (45mm) radiator (with a fan outside the case)?

I saw this page outlining the radiator options, but it doesn't note the 120mm width in relation to the top radiator.


----------



## frostbite

There isnt enough room for top and rear rads, unless they where custom loops then you could have the 240 on the inside and the 120 on the ouside with the pipes passing through the rear


----------



## mnemo_05

hmm, not sure about the exact measurements but I have a 240 rad on top(h220-x2 254mm) and a 25mm rad + a fan at the rear(h75+GT 50mm)

on this set-up alone, the rad is all the way to the front and is almost touching the rear rad+fan combo

TLDR, it will not fit :-D


----------



## Darkmatter35

Can anyone here confirm that you can fit a 1080ti in the define Mini C with a 60mm radiator in the front with one set of fans?


----------



## equilni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> hmm, not sure about the exact measurements but I have a 240 rad on top(h220-x2 254mm) and a 25mm rad + a fan at the rear(h75+GT 50mm)
> 
> on this set-up alone, the rad is all the way to the front and is almost touching the rear rad+fan combo
> 
> TLDR, it will not fit :-D


Thanks. Seeing this thread, with a Kraken X61 (280mm long radiator) and a 25mm fan, it would be a tight fit.


----------



## mnemo_05

wow that required a lot of work! core 500 is built tough, not that it is a bad thing but it ate up my discs like a champ as i cut a 92mm front intake.


----------



## ninogui

I so I got to the final build

this is a ryzen 1700 with fractal freezer 240 and corsairt ml140 additional on front, back and top (blowing in)

Build a couple ramps in aluminum to steer the airflow to chipset and 960evo (down) and help the geforce 1060, another smaller one on top steering some air into the vrms - as a result these will work in the range 51-55 ºc on up to 3.75 ghz full throttle

Only thing with this great case is the poly panel, total crap so some glass will have to come in the future


----------



## Xaltar

Got my build all sorted (for now)



Ryzen 5 1600x
ASRock X370 Taichi
16gb Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3600 @3466/3200 depending on BIOS version
Corsair H105

I was planning on building a basement to cover up the PSU and RGB cables. In this heat though it's tough to get motivated


----------



## Jyve

Can't agree more with the glass. I do love FD cases but they're falling behind the curve when it comes to glass and rgb.

I've been shopping for a new case, something with tempered glass so that's been ruling out FD. Truly my ideal would be a tg side panel for my arc mini. Finding a matx case that's water cooling friendly is sort of hard, specially when you have a long gpu like the zotac amp extreme 980 ti. Ideally mounting the pump res in the front. The arc mini's layout is just about perfect.


----------



## mnemo_05

I do feel that FD is still doing a wonderful job on their line of cases. I too would like to see them move from acrylic panels to TG but I wish they stay away from the RGB bs.

sorta like noctua and nidec, the only fan manufacturers I know who have not succumb to this rgb fad.


----------



## JackCY

They should go stroboscopic that's the new fad.









Nah really, FD, just improve the airflow, make all filters a fine mesh with large open area % and easily removable without having to move the case or dismount anything complicated. Add back support of EATX and ditch the recessed mobo.
I'm thinking of cutting my R4 again just didn't get to it. Dremel time yet to come, making rear filtered vent, cutting out the PCI pillars and probably cutting out the front panel side grill. Removing all that I don't need. Just no time to do it right now.

The S340 kind of nailed it simplicity wise, but so did the Define C etc.
As far as windows go, don't care but I would prefer probably TG as long as it's durable for occasional transport, which it should be. I would still buy a non window version personally for more quiet operation.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Yeah, I purposely bought the non-window version of the Nano S and have all the RGB stuff on the mobo disabled. Power light, disc activity light, that's it.


----------



## Ithanul

Yep, I bought the non-window Define S for my [email protected]/BOINC rig. Only rig that is my partly show rig is the main rig (which is a bit of a waste, considering I tend to never have it fully finish before the next tear up), the rest of my rigs, function over looks every day.


----------



## ninogui

Here´s a new one
then again tempered glass is needed - this thing scratches by itself lol


----------



## namida83

I consider buying Define C or NZXT s340 Elite. I think I'd buy Define C straightaway if you could add these features:

* *Tempered Glass* with four screws instead of using a hinge with a handle.
* One or two *USB Type C or HDMI* support in the front panel
* *Blackout expansion slots* esp in the Window version.


----------



## alphadecay

I'd really like to see an updated Define S sometime with Tempered Glass and the addition of the PSU shroud from the Define C. However, I feel like there's an opportunity with the Define S's rear 3.5'' drive sleds if combined with the shroud.

It would be possible to bring the shroud design of the Define C over to the Define S, sacrificing the very lowest 3.5'' sled as currently is, but gaining the traditional 2 bay 3.5'' cage. The middle sled is high enough that the bottom tabs don't encroach on where the shroud would meet the back wall. This means that you'd be able to have 4 3.5'' drives, two from the traditional cage in the bottom of the shroud, and two from the middle and top positions of where the Define S currently has drive sleds.

Then add in the 3 position 2.5'' mount of the Define C, and now you have an updated Define S capable of storing 3 2.5'' drives, and 4 2.5'' drives, all without sacrificing on fan mounting compatibility. You do lose a bit of drives if using radiators in the front, but I feel this would be an acceptable compromise for most users. It would be great to be able to retain the reservoir rails on the back wall as well.

Add in some Tempered Glass and you'd probably have a case of the year on hand.


----------



## ekg84

Haven't posted here forever. Here is my HTPC in the form of Define Nano S. Slightly modded. Some older hardware But hey, it works

















ECS Z97 Drone
4690K @4.4Ghz
8Gb Klevv DDR3 2666
GTX 980
480Gb PNY SSD
4TB Seagate Barracuda


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Had a bit of a radiator shuffle, temps are better so happy with that. Snapped the 24 pin comb though so waiting for a new one to arrive. Still need to neaten up the H100i cable that's next to the RAM but struggling a bit. Also removed the hose separators until I'll happy with the layout.


----------



## JAM3S121

Planning to buy this case and transfer my current rig into it

Any recommendations on front fans? I'm going install my h100i v2 on top as exhaust.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Planning to buy this case and transfer my current rig into it
> 
> Any recommendations on front fans? I'm going install my h100i v2 on top as exhaust.


If you're talking about my case then I'd recommend having the H100i in the front. I had it up the top as exhaust and then as intake and noticed minimal difference in temps. Changed it to the front as intake and noticed a few degrees lower temps.

As for fans, I have EK F4-120ER Blacks running at around 1000RPM and if I use the game I'm currently playing as an example, Watch Dogs 2 on ultra at 1080P, I'm getting a max of 30 degrees on CPU and 38 on GPU.


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VulgarDisplay88*
> 
> If you're talking about my case then I'd recommend having the H100i in the front. I had it up the top as exhaust and then as intake and noticed minimal difference in temps. Changed it to the front as intake and noticed a few degrees lower temps.


Lower temps on GPU or CPU?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> Lower temps on GPU or CPU?


I had the H100i in the roof and the GPU radiator in the front and since changing to the setup I posted earlier, both temps dropped by a few degrees.


----------



## pantsaregood

Anyone care to share their fan placement for the Define S?

Right now I'm using 3x140mm as intake in the front and 1x140mm exhaust in the back. I'm using a tower cooler (NH-D15S) and I'm not sure if a top exhaust and bottom intake will help or hurt temperatures. Anyone have any experience with this? What about a side intake?


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pantsaregood*
> 
> Anyone care to share their fan placement for the Define S?
> 
> Right now I'm using 3x140mm as intake in the front and 1x140mm exhaust in the back. I'm using a tower cooler (NH-D15S) and I'm not sure if a top exhaust and bottom intake will help or hurt temperatures. Anyone have any experience with this? What about a side intake?


From my experimentation, a top intake or exhaust will actually reduce tower coolers' effectiveness by 2 or 3°C. The Define S case is phenomenal for a front-to-back airflow setup, like you have yours now. A good tip is to remove one or preferably two PCI slot covers from below your GPU so its waste heat can exhaust easily out the back. A bottom intake can help, but only a little bit. I've found, anecdotally, that it can sometimes decrease air supply to the GPU depending on the strength of the bottom fan.

As always, if you have extra fans hanging around, give it a try yourself! A little experimentation is the only way to know for sure!


----------



## becks

Just a litle teaser of my Define Nano S(5.1 7700k, 32Gb 3866 oc ram):








The Becks beer in there is the 275ml one, for reference.
Where it stands an EK XE 240 goes in, which is in warranty at the moment.
Wanted to do full hard tubing first than decided to try a hybrid mix of hard and soft...will see if I like it or not down the road.
All cables will be custom made by me..ongoing
GPU will be replaced by a watercooled gtx 1080 ti...ongoing
Plenty of work to do so will keep you updated


----------



## Killingjokecz

Here's me Define S:


----------



## ninogui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> From my experimentation, a top intake or exhaust will actually reduce tower coolers' effectiveness by 2 or 3°C. The Define S case is phenomenal for a front-to-back airflow setup, like you have yours now. A good tip is to remove one or preferably two PCI slot covers from below your GPU so its waste heat can exhaust easily out the back. A bottom intake can help, but only a little bit. I've found, anecdotally, that it can sometimes decrease air supply to the GPU depending on the strength of the bottom fan.
> 
> As always, if you have extra fans hanging around, give it a try yourself! A little experimentation is the only way to know for sure!


You are right that´s why I built some ramps (look at my pics a dozen posts back), one for the intake fan down below (moves air to chipset and graphics card) and one on top for the intake top fan just to steer some air directly to the vrm (instead of just passing on top of them). Of course my setup is water aio so the top intake does not apply to air cooling, in that case the most appropriate is the air tunnel front to back, plus one or 2 top plates uncovered (I inserted a demciflex mesh to help with the dust)


----------



## Kaap

Maybe some "in the knows" in this topic could answer this.

When I bought my Phanteks Evolv TG there was another brand that I really wanted. Fractal. I find their case setups perfect in terms of effective space, radiator and fan options, ways of cooling. I thought the Define S was near perfect. Godly case. However... for an aesthetics point of view tempered glass and a psu shroud are things I prefer. Ofcourse, a PSU shroud has something to say for...it does take up space. As for tempered glass, in 2016 most case brands started using tempered glass.

So I eventually went with the Evolv, and I am not satisfied. Sadly, we're halfway 2017 and we have yet to see a new revision of either the Define S or R-series with tempered glass, psu shroud, or even by now vertical GPU. I really hoped Computex had something new but it seems dead silent on Fracal's side.

In Q4 I will be looking for a new case, so far only the CM H500 haf makes it to the list, but I so badly want a new Define S. Does anybody have any clue at all what's going on at Fractal's office?


----------



## becks

A bit of an update, still don't have the GPU (Probably another month at least) or the front Rad so went ahead with doing the sensor / soft tube layout.
Need to change some fittings with 90 Compact .... Ongoing
Need to re-cut some soft tubing... Ongoing
Need at least 3 more sensors... Ongoing (1 for intake air.....1 case temp....1 for GPU backplate....1 for Outlet CPU.....1 for Outlet GPU; Sensor HUB ?! I am not sure something like this exist will have to search)
Have 3 sensors at the moment (1 back of MB VRM...1 Under front MB VRM Heat sink.....1 Inline for Reservoir)



Spoiler: Warning: Pics


----------



## poinguan

I'm trying to do same cable management on my Define R5. My rig has 1 HDD, 2 SSD and 1 ODD, powered by Corsair GS700 PSU. Am I the only one who thinks squeezing all the extra molex cables (damn molex and FDD connector) behind the mobo tray is a PITA? Sometimes I'm worried if it's actually safe when all these cables are tightly squeezed when the right panel is installed, just for the sake of a clean look on the other side.


----------



## Chicken Patty

I agree. Sometimes I did have to give the back panel a good push to be able to screw the thumb screws on. You have a picture of how it looks now? See if I can give you some ideas. Also check out my project log in my signature. Not the greatest cable management, but if it can give you any ideas, go for it.


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chicken Patty*
> 
> I agree. Sometimes I did have to give the back panel a good push to be able to screw the thumb screws on. You have a picture of how it looks now? See if I can give you some ideas. Also check out my project log in my signature. Not the greatest cable management, but if it can give you any ideas, go for it.


Already closed the side panel and tucked the case at the room corner (right side facing a wall). Probably will re-open a year later









How I wish case manufacturers allocate 2" behind the mobo tray. I came from the good old days of Lian Li where 210mm wide alu case was the talk of the town. Decades later, space behind the mobo tray doesn't increase much.


----------



## Chicken Patty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> Already closed the side panel and tucked the case at the room corner (right side facing a wall). Probably will re-open a year later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How I wish case manufacturers allocate 2" behind the mobo tray. I came from the good old days of Lian Li where 210mm wide alu case was the talk of the town. Decades later, space behind the mobo tray doesn't increase much.


Yes, I wish the Define cases had a little more space behind the motherboard. But it is what it is.


----------



## helix7

I have a question, I hope this is the right place. I bought a Fractal R5 Define case. I paid for a company to build my new pc based around this case as I am terrible with pc hardware and actually have a scar as a result. Anyway I specc'd to the very latest pieces but foolishly only included 2 Noctua fans, which the builders have put on the front (was in another country to mine) of the case. With a closed door but I guess it's blowing into the case. All is fine, it's a great machine BUT the stock Fractal fan at the top at the back makes a horrible low pitch hum noise. With the Fractal case switch set to high, there was a load moaning noise too so I switched to medium which is what gave the issue with the low pitch hum noise. So I opened up the case *clouds pass over the sun* and looked, I cannot remove the offending fractal case fan as the build has the wires going under the mobo somewhere - dunno where.

So here is my question, I set the Fractal R5 case fan setting to low (there is low - middle - high on the top front of case) and I can't hear the noise but is this ok? I played Doom on ultra and it went to 48 degrees which seems pretty good! Thoughts? The pc is very quiet with low case setting. I am using a very good psu/cpu cooler (be quiet upper range).

Also, can I control the fractal fans from Asus software that came with mobo?

Thanks all, as you can see I am not an enthusiast just want to have my machine nice and running well.









Any tips welcome!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

If the Fractal fan is being controlled by the 3 way case switch, I don't think you can control it via software without plugging it into a fan header on the mobo. The Fractal 3 way is not powered by the mobo, it is a stand alone fan controller.

But if the case isn't getting too hot and you can live with the middle or low speed, I think this would be OK.

What mobo do you have, and can you identify what fan header(s) the Noctua fans are connected to?


----------



## helix7

Thanks GnarlyCharlie. I have been doing some more tests with low speed on case independent controller and is seems ok so far. The mobo is an Asus Z-270a prime and the cpu is 7700k with an asus1080 gtx. Not sure where the Noctua is connected to, didn't see them connected to the mobo when I looked. Found it all very different to my last pc this is replacing, one from 2010.

Having said that, the asus software when I changed the fan setting, could definitely hear the fans go faster so maybe it is plugged in. In the Asus graphs I dont see case graphs though.


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helix7*
> 
> Having said that, the asus software when I changed the fan setting, could definitely hear the fans go faster so maybe it is plugged in. In the Asus graphs I dont see case graphs though.


Are you sure it's not the CPU fan that's revving up?


----------



## poinguan

Is it possible to mount a 3.5" HDD in the R5, preferably just behind the lower front intake fan, without using the HDD cage?


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Bottom intake fan + 2 front intake, one rear exhaust is bad news bears. Guessing it disrupts the flow of air from the front bottom intake fan through to the rear of the case and just ends up blowing the hot air that the GPU exhausts up instead of it getting pushed out the back.


Is this test with or without the HDD drive cage?


----------



## killeraxemannic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*
> 
> Is this test with or without the HDD drive cage?


I have tried it both ways and neither produced a good result but when I was doing that testing it was without the HDD cage installed. I would recommend against the bottom fan. Depends on what you are going for... I was going for quiet with the best airflow and I ended up siwtching to Phanteks 140mm fans 2 in front one in rear and silverstone aeroslots instead of the stock r5 slot covers in the back. That gave me the lowest GPU temps with the front closed and the top and side noise dampening panels installed.


----------



## poinguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Time after time the Define cases have shown best flow with 3x good fans with 2x front and 1x bottom intakes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> Bottom intake fan + 2 front intake, one rear exhaust is bad news bears. Guessing it disrupts the flow of air from the front bottom intake fan through to the rear of the case and just ends up blowing the hot air that the GPU exhausts up instead of it getting pushed out the back.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killeraxemannic*
> 
> I would recommend against the bottom fan. Depends on what you are going for... I was going for quiet with the best airflow and I ended up siwtching to Phanteks 140mm fans 2 in front one in rear and silverstone aeroslots instead of the stock r5 slot covers in the back. That gave me the lowest GPU temps with the front closed and the top and side noise dampening panels installed.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poinguan*


Stop and think about it. Front to back airflow works very well with CPU cooler as drawing air in it's front and flowing it out the back.
GPU cooler is drawing air in from bottom side (in tower case) and dumping it's heated exhaust air toward motherboard, front, case side and back (in tower case). Therefore using a bottom intake (approximately under front half of GPU) helps supply cool air to the GPU .. and in most cases (no pun) this improves cool airflow from case intakes to components with the end result being lower temps. All of this is explained in 5th post of "Ways to Better Cooling" linked in my sig.

You will also find with bottom intakes (even just the PSU intake) that raising the case up on blocks or an open center castor base so there is 40-50mm clearance between case bottom and what it is setting on improves airflow to bottom lowering both noise level and temps.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1491876/ways-to-better-cooling-airflow-cooler-fan-data/0_20#post_22657923


----------



## Weber

Latest Define S with Asus Prime x299 Deluxe, Zotac 1080,
SL Binned Intel 7900X @ 4.7GHz.
Expanded the H240 X2 with a Dual 140mm.
Swapped the cpu block to Aquacomputer cuplex kryos HF.
Note the velcro mount fan blowing on the vrm sink.


----------



## JackCY

If it wasn't standing I would say it's just tossed in without being screwed in.


----------



## Kaap

*checking in*

Sold my Phanteks Evolv this weekend due to the heat issues of that case. Decided to go for a cheaper case while I wait what else is coming this year. At first I went with a S340 Elite but that case doesn't allow a push/pull setup, not even a pull setup with a 280MM. Quickly sent that back and ordered in a Define S.

I'm amazed. That case is fairly small but internally it's amazing! The front allows me to put a push/pull setup with 280MM and put a 140MM below that as well. So running 5 140MM fans in the front







The 2 Fractal fans in the exhaust. Keeping 2 toppanels on while I test thermals. But I'm impressed there as well. It's a solid 10 degree casetemp difference with my Phanteks Evolv.

So far really happy with the results.


----------



## ninogui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaap*
> 
> *checking in*
> 
> Sold my Phanteks Evolv this weekend due to the heat issues of that case. Decided to go for a cheaper case while I wait what else is coming this year. At first I went with a S340 Elite but that case doesn't allow a push/pull setup, not even a pull setup with a 280MM. Quickly sent that back and ordered in a Define S.
> 
> I'm amazed. That case is fairly small but internally it's amazing! The front allows me to put a push/pull setup with 280MM and put a 140MM below that as well. So running 5 140MM fans in the front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 Fractal fans in the exhaust. Keeping 2 toppanels on while I test thermals. But I'm impressed there as well. It's a solid 10 degree casetemp difference with my Phanteks Evolv.
> 
> So far really happy with the results.


I have a mostly similar config and I am happy too. If you want to go the open top path you should consider the demciflex double mesh for the define r5 (yes it is a bit expensive but will last a lifetime)

In my case I have 5 fans in the front lol one in the back and one pushing air in the middle open plate steered towards the vrm


----------



## Kaap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninogui*
> 
> I have a mostly similar config and I am happy too. If you want to go the open top path you should consider the demciflex double mesh for the define r5 (yes it is a bit expensive but will last a lifetime)
> 
> In my case I have 5 fans in the front lol one in the back and one pushing air in the middle open plate steered towards the vrm


I happen to have a 140MM magnetic dustfilter which I put on top now. I will try and test out if leaving the other 2 panels off helps as well. If it does, I'll make sure to order that dustfilter.

Does it cover the whole width incl. clearance? Or just the fans?


----------



## ninogui

It goes close, like 2 or 3mm off the edge of the case, so it the edge magnets on plain surface which is good.
take a look at my past posts for inside pics (not the mesh though)


----------



## ninogui

It covers totally in width leaving a 2 or 3mm gap, and in length (mine is 2 covers size but you have one covering 3, too expensive) the same in the back and close to the 3th cover in the front


----------



## cat1092

I'm an owner of both the Fractal Design R5 (Black, no window) & Core 3300 when on promo on Newegg for $49.99 & free ship. Had I known how good the Core 3300 was & was actually a clearance promo, would had purchased two, while it doesn't have the bells & whistles of the Define R5, rubber grommets to protect cables/wires & 9 HDD holders (enough for a server easily)., still love the case.

Plus I like the sound covering inside that the Define R5 has, way too many positives for me to list here, other than it's a great first time builder's case, as well as seasoned pro & all others not wanting a knuckle scraper case.









For $89 on promo, a great deal on the Fractal Design Define R5.

My only gripe is the front USB 3.0 ports, something's not right, need a pair of pliers to remove some plugged in accessories. The blue that's normally in USB 3.0 inputs isn't there (unlike the Core 3300, which is). I'd have sent for a RMA had I not just finished my first ever build. Have reached out to the corporation, got go answer back after tow posts. Other than that, of which I'll check carefully before a new build, love the brand.

Cat


----------



## MightEMatt

Just got a loop together in a Mini C. Figured I'd post this since I've yet to come across an SLI build with dual 240 rads in this case yet. Every build I've seen was mostly single GPU with horizontal reservoirs. Was a pretty tight fit but I ended up having a bit more space than I expected. It isn't particularly pretty but it keeps things cool. Once I'm done bleeding the loop I'll hopefully be able to strap in the reservoir, but as is at least I can close it up.

At the very least I hope it helps anybody planning a similar build with the fitment. Once you get a second GPU in there you pretty much eliminate any practical reservoir mounting locations. It was the last thing I added since I wasn't even sure which res I'd end up using until I could see how much space I had left.


----------



## Darkmatter35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightEMatt*
> 
> Just got a loop together in a Mini C. Figured I'd post this since I've yet to come across an SLI build with dual 240 rads in this case yet. Every build I've seen was mostly single GPU with horizontal reservoirs. Was a pretty tight fit but I ended up having a bit more space than I expected. It isn't particularly pretty but it keeps things cool. Once I'm done bleeding the loop I'll hopefully be able to strap in the reservoir, but as is at least I can close it up.
> 
> At the very least I hope it helps anybody planning a similar build with the fitment. Once you get a second GPU in there you pretty much eliminate any practical reservoir mounting locations. It was the last thing I added since I wasn't even sure which res I'd end up using until I could see how much space I had left.
> 
> Can you tell me what radiators and gpu's you use? Trying to figure out the spacing myself


----------



## Darkmatter35

Can you tell me what radiators and gpu's you use? Trying to figure out the spacing myself


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightEMatt*
> 
> Just got a loop together in a Mini C. Figured I'd post this since I've yet to come across an SLI build with dual 240 rads in this case yet. Every build I've seen was mostly single GPU with horizontal reservoirs. Was a pretty tight fit but I ended up having a bit more space than I expected. It isn't particularly pretty but it keeps things cool. Once I'm done bleeding the loop I'll hopefully be able to strap in the reservoir, but as is at least I can close it up.
> 
> At the very least I hope it helps anybody planning a similar build with the fitment. Once you get a second GPU in there you pretty much eliminate any practical reservoir mounting locations. It was the last thing I added since I wasn't even sure which res I'd end up using until I could see how much space I had left.


Nicely stuffed, sir!


----------



## MightEMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmatter35*
> 
> Can you tell me what radiators and gpu's you use? Trying to figure out the spacing myself


Using 2 EK PE240 rads, 40mm thick I believe, with Noctua NF-F12s which are 25mm. The GPUs are 1080Ti reference boards. I used the generic EK FE blocks instead of the dedicated 1080Ti blocks for resale/reusability. Also I went with the 3 slot FC terminal instead of a 2 slot just because, so if you went with a 2 slot you'd have some extra space above the PSU shroud.


----------



## LazarusIV

Is anyone with a Define S on hand available for a quick measurement? I'm looking for the shortest 420mm rad I can find, seeing if I can't man-handle one into the front of the case. Can someone measure the front for me, from absolute ceiling to absolute bottom in millimeters please? I figure it's an impossible task, but I'd like to look and know for sure. Thank you!


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Is anyone with a Define S on hand available for a quick measurement? I'm looking for the shortest 420mm rad I can find, seeing if I can't man-handle one into the front of the case. Can someone measure the front for me, from absolute ceiling to absolute bottom in millimeters please? I figure it's an impossible task, but I'd like to look and know for sure. Thank you!


About 440mm from the top to the floor of the case, and basically 420mm exactly based on the front intake rails.

With a Predator 360 (415mm long) mounted in the front of mine and raised up to the very top (pinching the front panel wires), there's about 10-15mm of clearance at the bottom.

Unless you can find any 420mm radiators shorter than 440mm its virtually impossible.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> About 440mm from the top to the floor of the case, and basically 420mm exactly based on the front intake rails.
> 
> With a Predator 360 (415mm long) mounted in the front of mine and raised up to the very top (pinching the front panel wires), there's about 10-15mm of clearance at the bottom.
> 
> Unless you can find any 420mm radiators shorter than 440mm its virtually impossible.


Hey thanks a ton for the hard numbers, I appreciate it! I figured as much, just wanted to know for sure and I keep forgetting to measure mine at home


----------



## AlphaC

Can someone with a Fractal Design Define R5 titanium tell me if it's a truly metal finish front panel , vs the Blackout version (black plastic). If it's painted then I probably won't even think of swapping the front panel.

I have a suspicion that the Titanium version is a metal sheet on top of a plastic panel , similar to the Corsair 400Q.

If it is the $33 + shipping ($10-11) from Pugetsystems or Fractal design part center (http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?k=43&seite=12), that puts the front panel for the case just under half the price of the case.

The piece I'm talking about:


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Can someone with a Fractal Design Define R5 titanium tell me if it's a truly metal finish front panel , vs the Blackout version (black plastic). If it's painted then I probably won't even think of swapping the front panel.
> 
> I have a suspicion that the Titanium version is a metal sheet on top of a plastic panel , similar to the Corsair 400Q.
> 
> If it is the $33 + shipping ($10-11) from Pugetsystems or Fractal design part center (http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?k=43&seite=12), that puts the front panel for the case just under half the price of the case.


Don't have the case, but a review someone had of the R5 Titanium here says that it is a metal front. Looking at the third picture under the Exterior heading, the side vents and front inset sheet are distinctly different shades.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1533931/review-fractal-designs-define-r5-titanium


----------



## jimmy83

finished (for now) my two systems at home in fractal cases.

Gaming pc specs are:

Fractal define XL R2 case
ASUS rampage V extreme x99 motherboard
Intel I7 5820K OC @ 4.0 ghz
Darkrock pro 3 cooler
32gb ddr4
gtx 1080ti fe
samsung 950 pro 240gb



Home server specs:

Fractal Define mini
Dell vostro 220s skt 775 motherboard
Intel Xeon X3370 4c @3.0ghz
Noctua NH-U12 cooler ( I think - was picked up second hand)
8gb ddr2
gtx 1030
60gb ssd boot drive,
4 x WD blue 1tb drives in 2x raid1 pools


----------



## jeffk

Hi everybody,

Is the BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro3 will fit in the Fractal Design Define Mini C ?

In term of height It should be ok if I refer to the spec, but with the read exhaust fan of the case ?

I do not find any build like this on internet so....

Thanks.


----------



## MightEMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeffk*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> 
> Is the BeQuiet Dark Rock Pro3 will fit in the Fractal Design Define Mini C ?
> 
> In term of height It should be ok if I refer to the spec, but with the read exhaust fan of the case ?
> 
> I do not find any build like this on internet so....
> 
> Thanks.


I can't speak for the Be quiet! directly, but a Noctua D15S fits no problem with 2 fans installed, and it's a similarly shaped cooler. Hopefully somebody with the Be quiet! can chime in.


----------



## cat1092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Can someone with a Fractal Design Define R5 titanium tell me if it's a truly metal finish front panel , vs the Blackout version (black plastic). If it's painted then I probably won't even think of swapping the front panel.
> 
> I have a suspicion that the Titanium version is a metal sheet on top of a plastic panel , similar to the Corsair 400Q.
> 
> If it is the $33 + shipping ($10-11) from Pugetsystems or Fractal design part center (http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?k=43&seite=12), that puts the front panel for the case just under half the price of the case.
> 
> The piece I'm talking about:


Be sure to check the USB 3.0 ports when it comes in, the blue inserts on mine were missing, that panel looks exactly identical to that of Define R5, although mine's plastic. Would be a great upgrade of my Define R5, since the rest is steel

Fractal Design may well be a quality oriented corporation, although they dropped the ball on mine, those top USB 3.0 ports are useless & twice, I received no response & even sent pics. Like I stated in my last post, would had RMA'd the case, yet it was my first ever build from all new components & didn't want to redo the entire build over the two ports. I don't know if there's inserts (the blue ones typically with USB 3.0) that can be tapped in, or the front needs to be swapped.

Maybe I should send another email to them, have proof of purchase from Newegg.

I wonder the same about the metal sheet, although if true, may fit the the Design R5, all the way to the groove beneath the power button, would have to be very thin, is flush as is. Still, would be a nice upgrade to the otherwise solid case, well over a year later, can't hardly hear the fans running, unless running a stress test or benchmark.









Thanks for the link to the (possible) upgrade!









Cat


----------



## Laurent Voulzy

Anyone knows if the flex in the R5 is a defect? The side panels are off when that heppens, if I lift the case from the top armature the case flexes a lot.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laurent Voulzy*
> 
> Anyone knows if the flex in the R5 is a defect? The side panels are off when that heppens, if I lift the case from the top armature the case flexes a lot.


That's normal in almost all cases. The side panels are designed to provide rigidity when installed.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cat1092*
> 
> Be sure to check the USB 3.0 ports when it comes in, the blue inserts on mine were missing, that panel looks exactly identical to that of Define R5, although mine's plastic. Would be a great upgrade of my Define R5, since the rest is steel
> 
> Fractal Design may well be a quality oriented corporation, although they dropped the ball on mine, those top USB 3.0 ports are useless & twice, I received no response & even sent pics. Like I stated in my last post, would had RMA'd the case, yet it was my first ever build from all new components & didn't want to redo the entire build over the two ports. I don't know if there's inserts (the blue ones typically with USB 3.0) that can be tapped in, or the front needs to be swapped.
> 
> Maybe I should send another email to them, have proof of purchase from Newegg.
> 
> I wonder the same about the metal sheet, although if true, may fit the the Design R5, all the way to the groove beneath the power button, would have to be very thin, is flush as is. Still, would be a nice upgrade to the otherwise solid case, well over a year later, can't hardly hear the fans running, unless running a stress test or benchmark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the link to the (possible) upgrade!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cat


It's a known "issue" that the R5 has black plastic inserts for the USB 3.0 ports. I don't see an issue given that they are labeled.

see mindfactory picture


hardwareluxx test


tweaktown test


The front fans don't have much pressure it seems. I submitted a suggestion to the design team stating that if they make an R6 they should try to reduce obstruction even further at the front of the case (i.e. reduce the number of fins at the side to about half the amount). Also a top filter would be nice.

An R6 designed with the HF (high flow) fan in back with 2 HP (high pressure) in front would be a great stock configuration.

There ought to be a new Arc Midi R3 that competes with the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (one 5.25" bay), IMO. they can just use the same overall configuration as the Fractal Design Define C , change the panel to be aluminum + with high flow in front.


----------



## cat1092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> It's a known "issue" that the R5 has black plastic inserts for the USB 3.0 ports. I don't see an issue given that they are labeled.
> 
> The front fans don't have much pressure it seems. I submitted a suggestion to the design team stating that if they make an R6 they should try to reduce obstruction even further at the front of the case (i.e. reduce the number of fins at the side to about half the amount). Also a top filter would be nice.
> 
> An R6 designed with the HF (high flow) fan in back with 2 HP (high pressure) in front would be a great stock configuration.
> 
> There ought to be a new Arc Midi R3 that competes with the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (one 5.25" bay), IMO. they can just use the same overall configuration as the Fractal Design Define C , change the panel to be aluminum + with high flow in front.


Is it a 'known issue' that anything plugged into those front USB 3.0 ports at times requires pliers to remove? I could care less about the color, as long as functional.









In regards to the fans, I must admit, while my PC is quiet (& cool) in the Define R5, was surprised these these are of the 3 pin type, preventing PWM control. Although through the ASUS UEFI, can still control speed through the DC option. Fortunately, should I need or desire to replace these, have two Noctua NF-12 120mm PWM fans, although would need a third for exhaust. Did consider using the two Cooler Master 120 PWM fans that were replaced with the retail packaged NF-12 & on another, a 3,000 rpm (no typo) NF-F12 IndustrialPPC_3000 PWM (no extras like the consumer packages, just pure horsepower, had to set at 60% to not be loud, yet still chills a AMD FX-8350 at low as 12C, although as shown below (2nd link), caught a snapshot of 13C.









http://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/GUHywCAGd5NEjBvRp8KWMoW

However, I have suspicions that the Cooler Master PWM fans will be louder than the Fractal Design ones & that would negate any PWM benefit, although like stated, have two spare NF-12's, and if I wanted to go (far) cheaper while still having a 6 year warranty, Arctic makes some quality PWM fans that I've used for OEM exhaust replacements. That's one thing that I never understood about the Define R5, otherwise nice case (minus the USB 3.0 issue), why would they go with 3 pin fans when for hardly no more, could had went with PWM ones? There's adapters for MB's that has 3 pin fan ports, if needed at all, the only thing that the 4th & unused pin would do is control speed on system demand. Full speed is better than nothing, especially considering how quiet these are. Too bad they won't fit in my one PC with 3 pin connectors.









Will look through some assorted (new) components & see if can find some new 120mm PWM fans, other than the NF-12's, which I don't believe are needed for intake, maybe exhaust only, am positive that I purchased a 4 pack of these during the time of build & didn't need because all of my cases shipped with fans.









I've also wondered what's that connection coming out of the wiring harness in front of the case, that looks like it's meant to be connected to SATA power cable that I've left as is, because have no idea what it's for. Don't want to connect something to see my $1,700 investment (the NVMe SSD & GPU alone being over $750 of that) go up in flames.









http://speccy.piriform.com/results/WKsjd6AqbjssYbyAAjrQiPc

Also seen that Fractal doesn't offer shipping to US customers, so am assuming I'll have to get replacement components through Puget or other authorized US distributor.

Cat


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Can someone with a Fractal Design Define R5 titanium tell me if it's a truly metal finish front panel , vs the Blackout version (black plastic). If it's painted then I probably won't even think of swapping the front panel.
> 
> I have a suspicion that the Titanium version is a metal sheet on top of a plastic panel , similar to the Corsair 400Q.
> 
> If it is the $33 + shipping ($10-11) from Pugetsystems or Fractal design part center (http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?k=43&seite=12), that puts the front panel for the case just under half the price of the case.
> 
> The piece I'm talking about:


I have R4 Titanium and the front looks all plastic. At a close up from side the there is black plastic door on top of which is a thin white what seem to me to be a plastic sheet which has a titanium imitation painted on top of it. It doesn't peel off or anything the two parts seem to be fused together. IMHO the Titanium version looks the best and better than all black.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> It's a known "issue" that the R5 has black plastic inserts for the USB 3.0 ports. I don't see an issue given that they are labeled.
> 
> see mindfactory picture
> 
> 
> hardwareluxx test
> 
> 
> tweaktown test
> 
> 
> The front fans don't have much pressure it seems. I submitted a suggestion to the design team stating that if they make an R6 they should try to reduce obstruction even further at the front of the case (i.e. reduce the number of fins at the side to about half the amount). Also a top filter would be nice.
> 
> An R6 designed with the HF (high flow) fan in back with 2 HP (high pressure) in front would be a great stock configuration.
> 
> There ought to be a new Arc Midi R3 that competes with the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (one 5.25" bay), IMO. they can just use the same overall configuration as the Fractal Design Define C , change the panel to be aluminum + with high flow in front.


The R4 had even more air restrictive air vents, especially front. They've been told to improve the airflow over and over. They did a bit with R5. I would still end up dremmeling the thing though.

Stiff USB ports depend on what their supplier gives them, they work just sometimes people report hard to plug in/out.


----------



## AlphaC

If it's a painted panel I guess I'll just leave the case as is.

Hah, I was hoping for the next Define (R6?) that includes 5.25" bays to have airflow on par with something like Corsair's 600Q (too tall for the ~500mm tall space constraint I am working with) but with a solid noise dampened side panel.

I would have never gotten a R4: the restriction means you need to run fans quicker , which means net noise roughly on par with a more open case with decent panel thickness and dampening. My Corsair 300R (all mesh on every side, the same chassis as a Corsair 330R titanium) with NF-A14 PWM fans @ 700RPM isn't that loud to be honest.

The first thing I removed from the R5 is the restrictive cage in the middle.

I sent in a "suggestion" support ticket so hopefully they do get more feedback from other people on that airflow issue.

I like the white LED on the Blackout edition more than the blue LED on the normal editions.


----------



## cat1092

I believe the Define R5 front panel is true plastic, as several magnets that I have on hand proved so, none would stick, not even a calendar given to me would stay in place.

Therefore, there's no need for me to replace the front panel, which would require a lot of work, although I agree that some of the drive bays can go. Which can be seen as a positive on Fractal's end, there's no shortage of drive bays (as well as large capacity HDD's), one can build a nice server with the case, holding up to 90TB (or more) of drives. That's not counting the two SSD bays on the back panel, nor any NVMe options on the MB, as well as PCIe adapters, how my 512GB Samsung 950 PRO is installed, getting it away from the hot MB.









The Fractal Design R5 is a decent case for the price, sound insulated, rubber grommets to protect wiring & lots of room in which to work. Can also hold most any GPU, as well as large CPU coolers, and if needed, extra places (top & side) for additional fans.









While my Core 3300 is a nice $49.99 case (wish I purchased two & would've had I known it was a closeout), holds only three HDD's, although may be possible to use some of the unused ones from the Define R5 instead of the way these are mounted, it's not quite up to par with the R5. really not even close. Although the Core 3300 was still good for one on a budget & after having spending $1,700 or more on the R5 build, was cash strapped for a few months, so purchased what I could.









BTW, the baby brother to the i7-4790K is in the Fractal Design 3300.









http://speccy.piriform.com/results/tbdS4YKHBvWROeKETAMBRKk

And the 240GB MyDigitalSSD BPX (NVMe) is almost as fast as the Samsung 950 PRO, have it installed in the extra GPU slot on a Sintech brand adapter with a fan, it truly needed it, temps dropped from 72C to just below 50C with the fan wide open.









A nice 2nd best PC, no shame here, with the same RAM as the one in the R5 & running at 4.4GHz at a cool 30C idle, 40-50C under normal usage.









While I'll likely continue to use Fractal Design cases, will pay more attention to the fine details & ask questions when needed (like over the included 3 pin fans), it's unlikely my next build will be Intel, unless they go back to manufacturing CPU's in the traditional way (soldered together), not held together with low cost thermal paste & glue. I've seen videos of MX-2 outperforming the crap Intel uses (before & after benching) & the results were stunning. Therefore, will go with AMD come upgrade time, of which my current builds should last me another 5-6 years.









I know how to keep an AMD CPU cool.









Cat


----------



## AlphaC

Aluminum isn't ferrous and doesn't have iron. A magnet wouldn't stick.

If it was steel the magnet would stick.


----------



## cat1092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Aluminum isn't ferrous and doesn't have iron. A magnet wouldn't stick.
> 
> If it was steel the magnet would stick.


AlphaC, Thanks for the reminder!









And to think, my first full time job was in an aluminum manufacturing facility (Easco Aluminum), although that seems like a lifetime back, over 35 years ago.









However, if there were metal content at all in the door, seems that it would be a little heavier, although just my opinion. If there's a layer of any metal, would have to be very thin, because it flexes w/ease.. Hopefully when the R5 is phased out, these will sell 50% below current Newegg pricing, I'd then snatch two w/out hesitation, it's still a nice case to work with, regardless of AMD or Intel build.









Plus it's good to have spares of everything, cases are one item that I don't have a quality spare of, and until I have a really bad experience, Fractal Design is my preferred case choice.









Cat


----------



## Mack42

It isn't obvious what Fractal's next "big" case is, but I hope it is soon. A bit higher quality Define S2 maybe? Will they be able to stay away from tempered glass?


----------



## becks

Anyone here tried this ting : https://mnpctech.com/fractal-design-define-s/nano-s-clear-side-panel.html

Tempted to order...but not sure what to say..


----------



## Mack42

Fractal just released tempered glass versions of their Define C series.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Fractal just released tempered glass versions of their Define C series.


I _really_ hope they're going to update the Define S with it, or release a new version of the Define S that includes the QOL features like the front sliding bottom filter, the front noise isolation, and the better ventilated rear panel.


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Fractal just released tempered glass versions of their Define C series.


Thanks for the heads up.

For anyone that's interested, more information can be found here:

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-c-tg
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-mini-c-tg

@Fractal Design, any plans for a Define Nano S with tempered glass?


----------



## Mack42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> I _really_ hope they're going to update the Define S with it, or release a new version of the Define S that includes the QOL features like the front sliding bottom filter, the front noise isolation, and the better ventilated rear panel.


My hopes as well. The Nano S and Define C series are simply higher quality cases than the Define S, which has been left in the dust. They really should update it with all the latest. However, I would prefer if any added PSU cover stays removable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> @Fractal Design, any plans for a Define Nano S with tempered glass?


That's a good question.







I saw someone mod a dark tinted tempered glass on his Nano S, and it looked gorgeous.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> My hopes as well. The Nano S and Define C series are simply higher quality cases than the Define S, which has been left in the dust. They really should update it with all the latest. However, I would prefer if any added PSU cover stays removable.


I've said this earlier in the thread, but they should retain the top and middle HDD sleds on the back wall if they add a PSU cover. This way you only lose the bottom sled, but still gain a traditional 2 bay HDD cage like the Define C has while keeping the same 3x140mm front fan mounting. Leaves the ability to retain 2 HDDs if using a front 360 rad, which is where essentially every other case with a PSU shroud and front 360 mounting currently is unable to do.

Couple that with TG and the other QOL features, and I would wager that Fractal would have a _highly_ competitive case. Call it the R6, Define S2, whichever they want. Either way, I feel it would be the benchmark in the mid-ATX category if those features were implemented.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> I've said this earlier in the thread, but they should retain the top and middle HDD sleds on the back wall if they add a PSU cover. This way you only lose the bottom sled, but still gain a traditional 2 bay HDD cage like the Define C has while keeping the same 3x140mm front fan mounting. Leaves the ability to retain 2 HDDs if using a front 360 rad, which is where essentially every other case with a PSU shroud and front 360 mounting currently is unable to do.
> 
> Couple that with TG and the other QOL features, and I would wager that Fractal would have a _highly_ competitive case. Call it the R6, Define S2, whichever they want. Either way, I feel it would be the benchmark in the mid-ATX category if those features were implemented.


They _need_ a R6 instead of making even more cases competing with the 5.25"-less bay cases. The number of cases with those sort of dimensions that have a 5.25" bay and are competitive thermally & acoustically is low.

For the R*6* they should include two HP-14 PWM fans in front and a HF-14 in back instead of those GP-14 fans , reduce front restriction further, reduce PCi-e slot cover restrictions, add top filter(s) , add a version with PSU shroud for the windowed version, up-to-date IO ports (such as adding a USB type C), and make the top moduvents less annoying to remove. To cost-cut it they could have the middle HDD cage as an add-on.

An Arc Midi R*3* would be nice as well to compete with the Enthoo Pro M.

----

I'm disappointed that the tempered glass cases don't have the improved HP-12 PWM fans instead of GP-12 fans. Oh well.

edit: Almost as disappointing as the Focus G series (which can't match their IO up with budget cases such as the Corsair 230T /Spec 02 , Cooler Master N400 , Raijintek Agos, or Silverstone RL05).

edit2:
The Meshify case looks to be a decent offering as more of a stylized Arc Midi replacement without 5.25" bays. However, given the Define C isn't the absolute quietest the HP-12 fan should have been used and high flow PCi-e slots substituted in.

Seems to be a Cooler Master MasterBox 5 and Silverstone RL06 competitor. It can't really compete with full tempered glass front panels such as the Rosewill Cullinan, Corsair 460X , or _cost effective_ DIYPC IllusionI-BL , .


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> They _need_ a R6 instead of making even more cases competing with the 5.25"-less bay cases. The number of cases with those sort of dimensions that have a 5.25" bay and are competitive thermally & acoustically is low.
> 
> For the R*6* they should include two HP-14 PWM fans in front and a HF-14 in back instead of those GP-14 fans , reduce front restriction further, reduce PCi-e slot cover restrictions, add top filter(s) , add a version with PSU shroud for the windowed version, up-to-date IO ports (such as adding a USB type C), and make the top moduvents less annoying to remove. To cost-cut it they could have the middle HDD cage as an add-on.
> 
> ----
> 
> I'm disappointed that the tempered glass cases don't have the improved HP-12 PWM fans instead of GP-12 fans. Oh well..


Agreed. Would prefer to see them update both the R5 and Define S at the same time considering the similarities in the sizing. Both are long in the tooth.

I'd just like to see them update the GP series with the same rotors as the HPs. You'd get most of the performance boost right there while leaving features such as the better bearing/rubber mounting intact for the HPs, so sales don't get cannibalized.

otoh, this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352072 is intriguing. Strange that they would create something like this to be honest.


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> edit2:
> The Meshify case looks to be a decent offering as more of a stylized Arc Midi replacement without 5.25" bays. However, given the Define C isn't the absolute quietest the HP-12 fan should have been used and high flow PCi-e slots substituted in.
> 
> Seems to be a Cooler Master MasterBox 5 and Silverstone RL06 competitor. It can't really compete with full tempered glass front panels such as the Rosewill Cullinan, Corsair 460X , or _cost effective_ DIYPC IllusionI-BL , .


It'd be great (for me







) if they sold a similar mesh panel for the Define Mini C. As it is now I'm running my case without the front panel at all. Dat airflow.


----------



## Jyve

I want to see an arc mini with tempered glass! As far as matx cases go, for water cooling, this is hard to beat.


----------



## fitzy-775

I am looking at getting a define s mid tower case soon and im going to put a full custom loop in it. What would be the best size motherboard to get for this case?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitzy-775*
> 
> I am looking at getting a define s mid tower case soon and im going to put a full custom loop in it. What would be the best size motherboard to get for this case?


ATX would fill it out best.


----------



## kse617

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> It'd be great (for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) if they sold a similar mesh panel for the Define Mini C. As it is now I'm running my case without the front panel at all. Dat airflow.


^This

Bought my Define Mini C literally hours before the TG version announcement but I'm willing to sell it at a loss for a Meshify Mini C TG if it ever comes out









For those wondering about a Define Mini C to TG conversion kit, I asked FD and was told that it was very likely to be available in the future as a spare part on their online parts store, so keep an eye.

BTW, loving the case so far. I come from a Silverstone TJ08-E which was inexplicably plagued with QC issues (misaligned screw holes mostly) and couldn't be happier with FD. Panels look a bit flimsier but it's not a big deal once the build is complete and the case is closed.


----------



## cat1092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *becks*
> 
> Anyone here tried this ting : https://mnpctech.com/fractal-design-define-s/nano-s-clear-side-panel.html
> 
> Tempted to order...but not sure what to say..


I had the choice of a metal or windowed door, chose metal because of the way my PC fits underneath my desk, the wiring direction is from the right side, so wouldn't has seen the window anyway. Being that this is my main PC, the diesel out of all, wanted it where it's at.

Plus unlike my ASRock builds, this one doesn't have the dehumifier option, and don't want it near a wall or window.









Cat


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kse617*
> 
> ^This
> 
> Bought my Define Mini C literally hours before the TG version announcement but I'm willing to sell it at a loss for a Meshify Mini C TG if it ever comes out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those wondering about a Define Mini C to TG conversion kit, I asked FD and was told that it was very likely to be available in the future as a spare part on their online parts store, so keep an eye.
> 
> BTW, loving the case so far. I come from a Silverstone TJ08-E which was inexplicably plagued with QC issues (misaligned screw holes mostly) and couldn't be happier with FD. Panels look a bit flimsier but it's not a big deal once the build is complete and the case is closed.


Heh, my previous case was TJ08 as well







I didn't have any QC issues with it, but I switched mainly for the extra breathing room for GPU (I use a large aftermarket cooler and fans) and the ability to use 2x140 fans up front. I do have that same problem (missalligned/miss-threaded screw holeswith my Mini C as you had with your TJ08, but the panels feel a bit sturdier for me. And the soundproofing it comes with muffles coil whine quite nicely.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up.
> 
> For anyone that's interested, more information can be found here:
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-c-tg
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-mini-c-tg
> 
> @Fractal Design, any plans for a Define Nano S with tempered glass?


I gotta give the usual shrug whenever it comes to comments on possible future products. How many would be interested in seeing a TG version of the Nano S?


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I gotta give the usual shrug whenever it comes to comments on possible future products. How many would be interested in seeing a TG version of the Nano S?


ME !! Hands down!! if you offer an upgrade path as well as I already have that case..


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I gotta give the usual shrug whenever it comes to comments on possible future products. How many would be interested in seeing a TG version of the Nano S?


Um, heck yes. And a TG Define S please, that case was *made* for a TG side panel!


----------



## pantsaregood

Still holding out hope for a Fractal Design Define XL R3.

I'm becoming increasingly sure that I'm going to be dremeling my Define S to fit an EATX motherboard.


----------



## Jyve

Arc mini tg pls!


----------



## cat1092

I hope that Fractal Design will start placing 4 pin PWM fans in their cases, this would contribute to a more 'premium' feel & far easier to control than 3 pin fans.

After fiddling around in the UEFI of the ASUS Z97 PRO Gamer MB getting to a x45 ratio tuning to push my i7-4790K to 4.5GHz, had to adjust fan speed of all in the case, it was much easier to get the full speed of the Noctua NH-D15 PWM fans tuned than the two case fans.









Now w/out a doubt, am going to replace the intake & exhaust with PWM fans, will use the two removed from both Hyper 212 EVO's for intake, and a Noctua NF-F12 for exhaust.









Considering all of the work to make the Define 5 a solid mid-level choice, cheaping out on the fans to save $2 is just plain bad business practice. No one should have to spend $100 (on promo) for a case, only to have to replace fans at a cost of over $75 (considering Noctua NF-F12 pricing). Yes, there are lower cost alternatives, one with the same 6 year warranty (Arctic), yet why should we have to go through this trouble? It's not too much in asking for PWM fans, these works just as well on 3 pin MB's, better if one wants these to run wide open.









Cat


----------



## dainfamous

The fans that it comes with suck anyway. I rather them just take out all the fans and let me save $5/fan.


----------



## khemist

Got a define c with glass window coming tomorrow, just finished building in a new case a few days ago, oh well.


----------



## Dimensive

I hope to see an ITX and mATX version.


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

https://postimages.org/

https://postimages.org/

https://postimages.org/

just got my Define c with tempered glass, will get to work on it over the weekend i think.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dimensive*
> 
> I hope to see an ITX and mATX version.


Yes, yes! I expect the matx to come but a nano s with a shroud would be awesome.


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> just got my Define c with tempered glass, will get to work on it over the weekend i think.


Nice, from where did you get it?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithydan*
> 
> Nice, from where did you get it?


https://www.novatech.co.uk/products/fractal-design-define-c-tempered-glass-atx-case/fd-ca-def-c-bk-tg.html


----------



## brazilianloser

That moment when they keep updating/altering cases that have just been released but their sweet sweet gold of a child the Define S is forgotten and left behind.... Where is the Meshify S or something of the sort... and Define S with full glass side panel, psu shroud and updated internals...???


----------



## smithydan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> That moment when they keep updating/altering cases that have just been released but their sweet sweet gold of a child the Define S is forgotten and left behind.... Where is the Meshify S or something of the sort... and Define S with full glass side panel, psu shroud and updated internals...???


That would sell, would be a bit late but yes.


----------



## Scotty99

Can we get a blackout define c TG? Keep the clear glass, say no to tint!


----------



## dynastes

Is my impression correct that the Meshify C's glas is rather heavily tinted, while the Define C TG's is clear? Seems like a strange decision to me. Same thing for the IO ports of the Meshify being attached to its front panel, while the Define's are not. It is the exactly same frame after all.

And yeah, I am nitpicking here, but I would have liked for the Meshify to be perfect and that, along with the gloss on said front panel, keeps it from being that, at least in my eyes.


----------



## skydro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> just got my Define c with tempered glass, will get to work on it over the weekend i think.


What fans are these?


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skydro*
> 
> What fans are these?


Those are the Noctua redux fans: http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/redux


----------



## xx9e02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> That moment when they keep updating/altering cases that have just been released but their sweet sweet gold of a child the Define S is forgotten and left behind.... Where is the Meshify S or something of the sort... and Define S with full glass side panel, psu shroud and updated internals...???


I'm super tempted to buy the new TG Define C for my Ryzen PC and move my X58 rig into my existing Define C but I'm sitting here holding out for that very exact thing... an updated TG Define S would be awesome.


----------



## brazilianloser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xx9e02*
> 
> I'm super tempted to buy the new TG Define C for my Ryzen PC and move my X58 rig into my existing Define C but I'm sitting here holding out for that very exact thing... an updated TG Define S would be awesome.


Can't say the same... all their new cases have a short length which wouldn't work with my current loop... so just here patiently waiting for that updated Define S...


----------



## pantsaregood

I've pretty much given up on seeing a Define XL R3 at this point, so maybe I'll just mod my Define S.

To anyone who has done so, how difficult was it to mod your Define S to fit an EATX motherboard? I'm looking at getting an ASUS Rampage X299 Apex, which is a pretty wide board.


----------



## DeXel

Does Define C or Meshify C (looks to have the same clearance) support XSPC RX240v3 up top? Also how many mm is there from top of the case to the top of motherboard PCB? Thanks.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pantsaregood*
> 
> I've pretty much given up on seeing a Define XL R3 at this point, so maybe I'll just mod my Define S.
> 
> To anyone who has done so, how difficult was it to mod your Define S to fit an EATX motherboard? I'm looking at getting an ASUS Rampage X299 Apex, which is a pretty wide board.


I haven't done it myself, but iirc I've seen someone fit a Rampage V in the Define S via cutting out the bend in the metal up until the edge of the grommet (towards the HDD trays).


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brazilianloser*
> 
> That moment when they keep updating/altering cases that have just been released but their sweet sweet gold of a child the Define S is forgotten and left behind.... Where is the Meshify S or something of the sort... and Define S with full glass side panel, psu shroud and updated internals...???


Define S has a few issues that should be updated:
* Rear removal of dust filter (R5 / Define C don't have this problem)
* the area next to PCI-e slots isn't high airflow (it's completely solid)
* GP-14 fans don't push much air through restrictions
* only 2 USB 3.0 ports (not as bad as Focus G as far as IO but it's a $90 case , see In Win 303 , CM 690 III , NZXT S340 Elite, Silverstone SST-RL06, Be Quiet SILENT BASE 600, Zalman Z9 Neo, older price/perf cases such as Cooler Master N400)
* rear PCI-e slots aren't high flow
* can only mount HDDs vertically = vibration
* window rattles when tapped per silentpcreview
* front panel has no noise dampening
* side panel goes in with the slots...
* massive window = some people prefer PSU shroud

Most people should buy a Define C instead of a Define S , unless you are packing a 3x140 radiator or something like a 171mm CPU cooler or > 315mm GPU.

Actually if you have a 171mm CPU cooler, the Meshify C supposedly supports 172mm tall CPU coolers.

Meshify C product page is up by the way

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/meshify/meshify-c


----------



## arandomguy

Any differences between the Meshify and C other than the front?

Hoping for another mITX release soon!


----------



## brazilianloser

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> Define S has a few issues that should be updated:
> * Rear removal of dust filter (R5 / Define C don't have this problem)
> * the area next to PCI-e slots isn't high airflow (it's completely solid)
> * GP-14 fans don't push much air through restrictions
> * only 2 USB 3.0 ports (not as bad as Focus G as far as IO but it's a $90 case , see In Win 303 , CM 690 III , NZXT S340 Elite, Silverstone SST-RL06, Be Quiet SILENT BASE 600, Zalman Z9 Neo, older price/perf cases such as Cooler Master N400)
> * rear PCI-e slots aren't high flow
> * can only mount HDDs vertically = vibration
> * window rattles when tapped per silentpcreview
> * front panel has no noise dampening
> * side panel goes in with the slots...
> * massive window = some people prefer PSU shroud
> 
> Most people should buy a Define C instead of a Define S , unless you are packing a 3x140 radiator or something like a 171mm CPU cooler or > 315mm GPU.
> 
> Actually if you have a 171mm CPU cooler, the Meshify C supposedly supports 172mm tall CPU coolers.
> 
> Meshify C product page is up by the way
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/meshify/meshify-c






Never said the case was perfect and agree w/ a lot of the recommendations there mentioned. What I did say in my original post was that updating/altering the Define S is long overdue being that they have released and remodeled several cases in the past few months alone. And that certain/most loops wont fit a Define C.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Soooooooooooooo....... just pre-ordered the Meshify C.

Will be transferring my rig from the Define C to it and transferring my other rig to the Define C.


----------



## Daggi

Today I'm a happy owner of a Define C







. Using a Noctua NH-D15 at the moment but it's covering the upper PCIe slot, going to replace it with some watercooling stuff I have lying around.


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

For now.


----------



## kradkovich

Ordered the new Fractal Design MESHIFY C yesterday and it just shipped! Excited to transfer over from my Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TP

Here are images of my current setup


----------



## skydro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> For now.


What watercooling components are you using? How fast are the fans spinning and how quiet is the whole system?


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://postimages.org/
> 
> For now.


Beautiful ! I'm contemplating a waterloop in my Define C mini, but between the lack of money and the difficulties, I might slap a Raijintek Morpheus on the GPU (again).

Do you plan to watercool your GPU? Because the front space seems tight as hell (your FTW3 (?) has a 300mm PCB)... Have you planned something you mind sharing ?

[edit: removed an old draft I forgot to remove]


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skydro*
> 
> What watercooling components are you using? How fast are the fans spinning and how quiet is the whole system?


Heatkiller cpu block, ddc pump with Bitspower heatsink and magic cube, XSPC rx240 radiator, Bitspower 12/10 tubing and Nanoxia coolforce fittings.

I'm working on fan profiles just now, the pump is the noisiest thing just now but it's not very loud, i'm dialing that down now also.. i need to play about for a while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> Beautiful ! I'm contemplating a waterloop in my Define C mini, but between the lack of money and the difficulties, I might slap a Raijintek Morpheus on the GPU (again).
> 
> Do you plan to watercool your GPU? Because the front space seems tight as hell (your FTW3 (?) has a 300mm PCB)... Have you planned something you mind sharing ?
> 
> [edit: removed an old draft I forgot to remove]


Thanks!, nope, i'm keeping the GPU on air for now.


----------



## aerial

You pretty much ended up with cpu "cooler" more expensive than cpu itself


----------



## khemist

It's stuff I had already though, never bought it for this and didn't even consider buying this case.

It was a total impulse buy, i think it was the glass window that swung it.


----------



## cat1092

Finally figured out what that strange SATA power cable & fan inputs were for, the Define R5 has it's own fan controller, which works much better than controlling via the ASUS UEFI.









Both intake & exhaust fans are now much faster & as a result, the CPU runs a bit cooler. May use the exhaust as an added intake & place one of the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO PWM fans in the rear, which runs at a max of 2,000 RAM (-/+ 10%).









If I don't like the performance, or if it rattles (have two), can swap for another, or add one of my spare Noctua Nf-12's. Although would like the CM PWM fan to work due to higher RPM, if so, may add the other as an added side intake directly over the MB/CPU/GPU for added cooling.









Will be on the lookout for Define R5 closeout sales!









Cat


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

Only just managed to fit the pump like this, very close indeed.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kradkovich*
> 
> Ordered the new Fractal Design MESHIFY C yesterday and it just shipped! Excited to transfer over from my Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TP


About time to transfer from the hotbox right?


----------



## kradkovich

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> About time to transfer from the hotbox right?


Not the best airflow i agree, only bought it for the looks haha. Plus im tired of it now


----------



## bagoshi

Can anyone confirm if you can fit a fan right behind mesh instead of inside the case on the MESHIFY C?


----------



## Skylinestar

How do you guy solve the dust issue here (if you have rad installed at the top)?


----------



## cat1092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> How do you guy solve the dust issue here (if you have rad installed at the top)?
> 
> How about using a vacuum cleaner nozzle, although not on a carpeted surface & don't allow the nozzle to physically touch the filter. Rather get as close as possible to break up the dust & draw in into the cleaner. That's how I clean most all of my computers, although I never touch the nozzle to any part of the computer. keeping a quarter of an inch away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can also, if accessible from beneath, use canned air (properly named air duster under various brands) to blow the debris upwards using short blasts. It's much easier if laying on it's side, where any dust than then be vacuumed/swept when the PC is back in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a couple of ideas, if I had the same setup, would come up with some way to clean the area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cat


----------



## Dan-H

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> How do you guy solve the dust issue here (if you have rad installed at the top)?


You can fill the void. Try using the thin foam packing material from your MoBo or graphics card. if it is dark grey or black and on the inside of the case, it should blend in very well. If it is cut slightly wider than the gap it should stay in place.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if you can fit a fan right behind mesh instead of inside the case on the MESHIFY C?


I watched a review, can't remember who, and they said that you couldn't put the fans right behind the mesh because there was roughly 1cm of space.


----------



## becks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> How do you guy solve the dust issue here (if you have rad installed at the top)?


Myself and some others that use these cases use this custom magnetic filters: Link


----------



## Ksireaper

I have 2 x XSPC EX 360 radiators on hand. Does anyone know if they will fit in the front and top if the Define S with a with a single set of fans on each?


----------



## 0ppositeLock

Anybody got a Define S on hand to measure the window size and inner clearance to the metal ribbing?

Thanks.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> I have 2 x XSPC EX 360 radiators on hand. Does anyone know if they will fit in the front and top if the Define S with a with a single set of fans on each?


At 395mm long you would be able to if you used fans that are near exactly 25mm thick, but those radiators are 36mm thick.

When I mounted my Predator 360 (415mm long) in the top, I was barely able to fit a 25mm thick fan in the very top fan slot, and anything thicker would not fit. Considering your rads are 35.5mm thick, if you fit the front fans in the space the front panel leaves when on (so between the frame and panel where the vents on the side are, forgoing the filter) you _may_ be able to fit. At essentially 421mm it would be a very tight squeeze though, since the top supports 3x140s, leaving you with a total horizontal spacing of 420mm.


----------



## Ksireaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> At 395mm long you would be able to if you used fans that are near exactly 25mm thick, but those radiators are 36mm thick.
> 
> When I mounted my Predator 360 (415mm long) in the top, I was barely able to fit a 25mm thick fan in the very top fan slot, and anything thicker would not fit. Considering your rads are 35.5mm thick, if you fit the front fans in the space the front panel leaves when on (so between the frame and panel where the vents on the side are, forgoing the filter) you _may_ be able to fit. At essentially 421mm it would be a very tight squeeze though, since the top supports 3x140s, leaving you with a total horizontal spacing of 420mm.


Awesome thanks for the reply. I will pick up an EX 240 and go that route in the front. I'm About to shrink my build down from my 900D. Case is just too big to do anything with and i want to go to some Lan Parties around here in San Diego.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> Awesome thanks for the reply. I will pick up an EX 240 and go that route in the front. I'm About to shrink my build down from my 900D. Case is just too big to do anything with and i want to go to some Lan Parties around here in San Diego.


I have to correct myself there, it would actually be 431mm, not 421. So definitely not fitting.

Why not pick up a 280mm rad instead? You'd basically get the same performance as two 360s and it wouldn't be difficult to fit. Sometimes I'm surprised by the number of people who get 240 rads over 280s even though they have enough room to fit.


----------



## mrjayviper

Hello. Can someone please tell me what are these mini "rectangles that's present in the middle of the motherboard tray of the XL R2? Thanks


----------



## Dimensive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrjayviper*
> 
> Hello. Can someone please tell me what are these mini "rectangles that's present in the middle of the motherboard tray of the XL R2? Thanks


They're cable tie down points on the other side.


----------



## mrjayviper

thanks. seems I need to drill holes to mount my Intel dual CPU board...


----------



## khemist

https://postimages.org/

https://postimages.org/

.


----------



## kradkovich

Received the Fractal Design Meshify C yesterday and made the switch


----------



## khemist

Very nice!, looks smart.


----------



## Dimensive

Nice build! I really like the Meshify C and hope they come out with an ITX version.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

kradkovich

Seeing your build has got me all excited for when mine turns up on Friday.


----------



## encrypted11

Completed my Nano S custom loop.


----------



## mrjayviper

Anyone with the XL? can one remove the 5.25 bays? I won't be using it. Thanks!


----------



## encrypted11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I gotta give the usual shrug whenever it comes to comments on possible future products. How many would be interested in seeing a TG version of the Nano S?


I'd pay the price of the Nano S just for a Tempered Glass upgrade kit.

Just custom loop'd my Nano S and it'll be a PITA moving it to a new chassis.


----------



## mrjayviper

Anyone has xl r2? I'm just read a review that says the sound deadening material would have a negative impact to ventilation and cooling. But wouldn't that be the same for any case where there's the top is not open/meshed? Thanks


----------



## Ksireaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> I have to correct myself there, it would actually be 431mm, not 421. So definitely not fitting.
> 
> Why not pick up a 280mm rad instead? You'd basically get the same performance as two 360s and it wouldn't be difficult to fit. Sometimes I'm surprised by the number of people who get 240 rads over 280s even though they have enough room to fit.


I already have all the 120MM fans from this current build. Going to use them. Corsair SP 120's and id rather not buy new fans.


----------



## khemist

For anyone interested, the Meshify C mesh front is compatible with the Define C and will be sold on the spare parts website in the future.

I'll be sticking one on my Define C TG to see the difference.


----------



## Zhuni

Love the look of the new Mesh C but I had an old ARC ages ago that had foam behind mesh and after a few months and a few cleans the foam gets coloured from the dust and you can see the white dusty foam through the holes which looks bad. Is there away to clean it or is it back from the holes more then the ARC?


----------



## Kirby15

With the Meshify C do you think it would be fine to have a aio on the top? I have a rog strix I don't think I cant fit a aoi in the front.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zhuni*
> 
> Love the look of the new Mesh C but I had an old ARC ages ago that had foam behind mesh and after a few months and a few cleans the foam gets coloured from the dust and you can see the white dusty foam through the holes which looks bad. Is there away to clean it or is it back from the holes more then the ARC?


That is 100% why i cannot consider this case, the filter material. It degrades over time and is not nearly as easy to clean as a proper mesh style filter. This is another reason i bought an H440, mesh front cases look bad after a while. The perfect fractal case would be a define C TG blackout with the glass designed a bit better (i dont like the way they covered up the mounting holes with the blackouts on the glass, looks half assed).


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> That is 100% why i cannot consider this case, the filter material. It degrades over time and is not nearly as easy to clean as a proper mesh style filter. This is another reason i bought an H440, mesh front cases look bad after a while. The perfect fractal case would be a define C TG blackout with the glass designed a bit better (i dont like the way they covered up the mounting holes with the blackouts on the glass, looks half assed).


I have an arc mini and I removed that spongy stuff long ago. Granted I have to clean the case more often but airflow is much better now.


----------



## Zhuni

It's a bit of a step back though. Removal recessed filter would have been so much better


----------



## Darkmatter35

Can anyone here tell me if it would be better to have Fractal's Airflow or static pressure Venturi fans in the front of the Define C? I ask because the fans are pulling through a dust filter and from the side of the front panel and not the front.


----------



## JackCY

Always get pressure fans not airflow fans.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Always get pressure fans not airflow fans.


Exactly this!

I wish more people would push this 'opinion' as if you really think about it, it's very unlikely that a case fan won't have some sort of restriction involved, be it a grill or filter.

Static pressure, all day every day!


----------



## khemist

My define C TG for now.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My define C TG for now.


Are you sure? I only really see, and barely at that, a gpu.


----------



## cat1092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kradkovich*
> 
> Received the Fractal Design Meshify C yesterday and made the switch


I like that type of dust filter, looks just like the one on top my Rosewill Stryker M case, wished that my Core 3300 had one, although am sure than I could purchase one to fit the open air top case passive exhaust to keep (most of) the dust out.









These probably doesn't cost much & I doubt that a groove to fit in mandatory, could install inside, although w/out securing in some other way, could fall & come in contact with other components, at worst, could cause a disaster. Why I prefer on the outside.









Hopefully this will mean a promo on Fractal Design Define R5 cases, will be checking my Newegg promos daily!









Cat


----------



## Jose Hidalgo

Hi guys,

I have a *Define C / Define C mini* related question. I hesitated between posting it here or in the *Mod* forum, but there seems to be a fair number of Define C owners in this thread, so...









Here's the question : how can we put 3 x 3,5" drives in these cases ? What are the possibilities ?

*Important :* I know that these cases are meant for 2 x 3,5" drives + 3 x 2,5" drives. So my question is obviously about a small Mod to go beyond the cases' official limits.

Ideally I'd like all 3 drives to be under the shroud. Would there be enough space for them if we remove the drive cage ?
In other words : if we remove the cage, what is the max available height between the case bottom and the shroud ?
Other options welcome.

Assuming the 3,5" drives (WD Red 3 TB) are 26.1mm high, I would need at the very least 78,3mm under the shroud.
An ATX PSU is supposed to be 86mm high, so in theory it should work.
I would get at least 7.7mm of free space, which would allow for some rubber grommets to isolate the drives.
I'm thinking about a first drive screwed to the case bottom (with 2mm rubber grommets), a second drive upside down screwed to the shroud (with 2mm rubber grommets), then a third drive between them two (on top of the first one, also with rubber grommets). What do you think ?

I don't mind the drives getting a little hot (less than 50°C though), because in my experience it doesn't affect their lifespan. Plus my drives will be idle most of the time (they are meant for mass storage). Also, I'm aware that getting the drives out of the case won't be as easy as with the official drive cage. Im OK with that.

Thanks in advance !


----------



## mrjayviper

Any xl r2 users? Is cooling a problem with the small front vent? Thanks


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jose Hidalgo*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I have a *Define C / Define C mini* related question. I hesitated between posting it here or in the *Mod* forum, but there seems to be a fair number of Define C owners in this thread, so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the question : how can we put 3 x 3,5" drives in these cases ? What are the possibilities ?
> 
> *Important :* I know that these cases are meant for 2 x 3,5" drives + 3 x 2,5" drives. So my question is obviously about a small Mod to go beyond the cases' official limits.
> 
> Ideally I'd like all 3 drives to be under the shroud. Would there be enough space for them if we remove the drive cage ?
> In other words : if we remove the cage, what is the max available height between the case bottom and the shroud ?
> Other options welcome.
> 
> Assuming the 3,5" drives (WD Red 3 TB) are 26.1mm high, I would need at the very least 78,3mm under the shroud.
> An ATX PSU is supposed to be 86mm high, so in theory it should work.
> I would get at least 7.7mm of free space, which would allow for some rubber grommets to isolate the drives.
> I'm thinking about a first drive screwed to the case bottom (with 2mm rubber grommets), a second drive upside down screwed to the shroud (with 2mm rubber grommets), then a third drive between them two (on top of the first one, also with rubber grommets). What do you think ?
> 
> I don't mind the drives getting a little hot (less than 50°C though), because in my experience it doesn't affect their lifespan. Plus my drives will be idle most of the time (they are meant for mass storage). Also, I'm aware that getting the drives out of the case won't be as easy as with the official drive cage. Im OK with that.
> 
> Thanks in advance !


Gonna be honest with you, if you are using this as a server or have use for that many 3.5" drives the define R5 is a much better case for that setup.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Are you sure? I only really see, and barely at that, a gpu.


https://postimages.org/

https://postimages.org/

A little more light.









I'll be doing proper watercooling again soon just because i feel like it.


----------



## Jose Hidalgo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Gonna be honest with you, if you are using this as a server or have use for that many 3.5" drives the define R5 is a much better case for that setup.


Short answer : thanks, but no







Please be kind enough to stick to my question. Thank you.

Long answer : I have already a NAS. For various reasons (explained here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1636563/new-member-from-france#post_26291618 ) I'm going to dump it and go back to the "everything in one place" philosophy. That part is not open to discussion.

I could use a R5, but I prefer the Define C. I want a case with a shroud and TG. I have considered dozens of cases, and now I have only 3 in my shortlist : Fractal Design Define C (new version with TG) / Primo P37E / Thermaltake View 21. My question in this topic is only about the Define C. Thanks for your understanding.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jose Hidalgo*
> 
> Short answer : thanks, but no
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please be kind enough to stick to my question. Thank you.
> 
> Long answer : I have already a NAS. For various reasons (explained here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1636563/new-member-from-france#post_26291618 ) I'm going to dump it and go back to the "everything in one place" philosophy. That part is not open to discussion.
> 
> I could use a R5, but I prefer the Define C. I want a case with a shroud and TG. I have considered dozens of cases, and now I have only 3 in my shortlist : Fractal Design Define C (new version with TG) / Primo P37E / Thermaltake View 21. My question in this topic is only about the Define C. Thanks for your understanding.


Thought i was being nice by giving my honest opinion. Good luck.


----------



## KaffieneKing

If you can physically fit it I see no reason why not, but be warned there isn't a lot of room in the back of the define C, hope you have a short PSU!


----------



## Jose Hidalgo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Thought i was being nice by giving my honest opinion. Good luck.


You were nice Scotty.







The only thing is that I am just looking for an answer to my question(s), not about opinions or advices about changing the case. Thank you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> If you can physically fit it I see no reason why not, but be warned there isn't a lot of room in the back of the define C, hope you have a short PSU!


Adding a 3rd 3,5" drive without changing the drive orientation doesn't affect at all the available space for the PSU. Think about it.











Back to the subject, I'd like to know if anybody has already tried a similar operation (getting rid of the drive cage and adding a 3rd drive). Thanks !


----------



## KaffieneKing

In just meant in general having a short PSU helps for this case due to the small gap between the motherboard tray and the back panel.

I havent done it, but I imagine making an acrylic cage would be very easy, and using L brackets you could probably crew it in using the original mounting holes?


----------



## Jose Hidalgo

Yes, an acrylic cage looks like a good idea







Maybe I could even reuse the original metal cage by drilling new holes, who knows !
It all depends on the actual available height under the shroud. That would be the most important info right now.
Is there a Define C / Define mini C owner who could measure that height very accurately ? Thanks.


----------



## JackCY

You can fit 3 3.5" HDDs in the height of a dual 3.5" cage. Just don't use the cage or make your own.


----------



## icesergio

To all the Fractal case owners:

Define S vs R5?

Is the Define S built as well as the R5? Is the front panel on the Define S made of plastic junk that'll break off after a few removals? Is the Define S as quiet as the R5?

I'm currently on the edge and the R5 costs 20 euros more, is it worth it?


----------



## Glottis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icesergio*
> 
> To all the Fractal case owners:
> 
> Define S vs R5?
> 
> Is the Define S built as well as the R5? Is the front panel on the Define S made of plastic junk that'll break off after a few removals? Is the Define S as quiet as the R5?
> 
> I'm currently on the edge and the R5 costs 20 euros more, is it worth it?


R5 if you need lots of HDD/ODD cages, S if you do not.


----------



## icesergio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> R5 if you need lots of HDD/ODD cages, S if you do not.


I only have a HDD and an SSD. My primary concern is with the front panel. Is it as good as the one on the R5? Are the tabs that hold it in cheap?


----------



## Glottis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icesergio*
> 
> I only have a HDD and an SSD. My primary concern is with the front panel. Is it as good as the one on the R5? Are the tabs that hold it in cheap?


I'm not sure about that as I only have the R5, but I don't think it should be much of a concern because without optical drives you won't be touching front panel often, except when you need to clean dust once in a while.


----------



## icesergio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glottis*
> 
> I'm not sure about that as I only have the R5, but I don't think it should be much of a concern because without optical drives you won't be touching front panel often, except when you need to clean dust once in a while.


Well, I guess it's settled for the Define S then... Thanks for your contribution


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jose Hidalgo*
> 
> Yes, an acrylic cage looks like a good idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I could even reuse the original metal cage by drilling new holes, who knows !
> It all depends on the actual available height under the shroud. That would be the most important info right now.
> Is there a Define C / Define mini C owner who could measure that height very accurately ? Thanks.


At the precise point where the HDD cage is anchored it's 84 mm from the case floor to the shroud itself, plus another millimeter or so if you account for the slight recess under the removable shroud cover.

By the way, I know the aim is to get all 3 drives under the shroud, but with a little searching I did find a creative alternative that might work for you. I ran across this bracket that apparently lets you mount one 3.5" drive using an expansion slot: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817998258. I can't claim any first hand knowledge of the product, but the concept seems solid enough (though I'd probably remove the drive before moving the PC anywhere). Looks like it would need to fasten on the 2nd slot from the bottom, but the drive would be partially covered by the black mounting plate and the connectors would line up very closely with a pass-through hole large enough for both power and sata cables. Could be a potential solution.


----------



## Jose Hidalgo

Thank you very much for that precise and creative reply









It's true that 84mm doesn't leave a lot of space. Unless I just put the 3 drives on top of each other, isolated by 1.5mm rubber pads :
1.5 + 26 + 1.5 + 26 + 1.5 + 26 + 1.5 = 84mm exactly.
Granted, that wouldn't allow for any easy mounting/unmounting. I'm OK with that.

Thanks for the PCI slot idea. That may be a solution indeed, if the "under the shroud" idea doesn't work.
I guess i'll have to get the case first, then do some harmless experimenting.

Thanks !


----------



## denjin

For those that are familiar with or own a Define C...

What would you recommend for cooling a 7800x? I could use a D15 I have lying around (need to buy a bracket though since I don't know what I did with all of them), or get something like a Celsius 36 mounted in the front or a Corsair 110 (not sure a 115i fits in top?) at the top? I worry that it will be noisy if I mount a AIO radiator and fan in the top.


----------



## JackCY

Use the D15 if it fits.


----------



## Sgang

Hi Guys, i'm here for some suggestion on a project i will would like to start in the next few days (an Hackintosh mac PRo)

I've a Define R4 with no window and i would like to add a side one; my dream is a full tempered glass, there's some kit i can buy that fit this case?
thanks in advance


----------



## Darkmatter35

Better off just buying a Define C TG. Internals will be better and the cost of upgrading that R4 would be a lot


----------



## plant

@Fractal Design you probably don't want to discuss future products but I really hope to see an "S" series refresh. A define S with TG, PSU shroud, and top fan filter. And a define nano S with those things in addition to a meshify front panel that will accomodate fans on the outside of the frame to leave more room for a radiator on the inside.

The "C" series and meshify are really nice, just not enough room for water cooling.


----------



## Sgang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkmatter35*
> 
> Better off just buying a Define C TG. Internals will be better and the cost of upgrading that R4 would be a lot


At the end i bought a pre-cutted plexiglas panel, i will use some magnetic strips to attach to the case. I will update for the result, i considered to sell the entire case, but i doubt i can earn enough and i like DIY








Total paid 10$ plexiglas + 6 magnetic tape + 7 $ shipment


----------



## khemist

Define C TG, will take a clearer pic tomorrow.


----------



## khemist

Cpu inlet is a bit off but oh well.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plant*
> 
> @Fractal Design you probably don't want to discuss future products but I really hope to see an "S" series refresh. A define S with TG, PSU shroud, and top fan filter. And a define nano S with those things in addition to a meshify front panel that will accomodate fans on the outside of the frame to leave more room for a radiator on the inside.
> 
> The "C" series and meshify are really nice, just not enough room for water cooling.


I may not be at liberty to say much about future products, but I can most certainly listen. That's pretty much the first place we start when developing anything new. That said, these are all solid suggestions and you're certainly not alone in anticipation for new additions to these series.


----------



## ddarko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I may not be at liberty to say much about future products, but I can most certainly listen. That's pretty much the first place we start when developing anything new. That said, these are all solid suggestions and you're certainly not alone in anticipation for new additions to these series.


If you're in listening mode, please consider a refresh of the Define R lineup. In particular, a refreshed R5 or new R6 that fits the reduced EATX form factor. Full size EATX mobos were and still are pretty rare but more and more mobo makers seem to be using the reduced EATX as a good compromise that offers more space for features than the ATX size without having to go all the way to full size EATX. I'd really like to see a Fractal case that can accommodate reduced EATX in a relatively compact case without having to turn to giant towers like the XL2. The R4 unofficially supported the reduced EATX but changes to the mobo tray with the R5 make it incompatible.

BTW, I happily discovered this weekend the R5 case takes an MSI Lightning 1080 Ti card, even though Fractal spec says the case will only take cards up to 310mm length (with the hard drive cage) and MSI listing the Lightning card as 320mm.


----------



## d0mmie

My biggest gripe with the R5 case is the hard drive bays. Even with the rubber grommets installed, they're very ineffective at soaking up vibrations from large hard drives. Fractal should consider making the bay insert of plastic instead of metal, just like Corsair and Phanteks does (it really does make a huge difference)


----------



## ImTheFreeMan

Meshify C with the front foam dust filter removed and replaced with this DEMCiflex dust filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747TKJZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IMO the foam created this weird look to the fans so I swapped it out. You can see the fans much clearer now and the new filter fit perfectly.

This is what it looked like originally:


----------



## Scotty99

Thats awesome, can you post a pic with the front mesh off and showing how the filter mounts to the case?


----------



## denjin

OK, so using an existing Noctua D15 is out of the question since I'm handing that computer down to my father-in-law...

What high performance solution would you recommend for an X299 setup in the Fractal Define C? I want to cool an overclocked 7820x. I could do a Celsius S36 in the front, but perhaps something like a Corsair H115i plus a secondary 120mm below it? Alternatively I could buy a Define 5 and give the C to my other half.


----------



## khemist

I ended up mounting the fans on my Define C TG between the front panel and case so i can't use the stock dust filter, stuck some Silverstone ones on, it doesn't leave a lot of breathing room for rads though.

I may switch out the 240 front XSPC crossflow for a slim Magicool 360 so i can put the fans back behind.


----------



## becks

Ongoing work (all tubes will be replaced..run out of acrylic







)


----------



## ImTheFreeMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Thats awesome, can you post a pic with the front mesh off and showing how the filter mounts to the case?


It's magnetic so it just sticks right on.




I also taped a small piece of white paper to the power LED on the front since it was too bright without the foam. The front grill hides the paper completely so you can't see it.


----------



## timattard

Hello all, some lovely cases there.

I am in the process of getting my build together and managed to get a cracking deal for 2 x ALPHACOOL ST30 rads. I would like to buy the Define C TG case but wondering if there is enough room to mount both rads (1 up top and 1 front?) I know it will be a squeeze and maybe some modding to do but has anyone seen this done?


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I may not be at liberty to say much about future products, but I can most certainly listen. That's pretty much the first place we start when developing anything new. That said, these are all solid suggestions and you're certainly not alone in anticipation for new additions to these series.


Would be nice for an updated R6 with top filter, psu shroud, and fan inserts at top for more top rad space...and oval slits for screws for rads/fans to allow some adjustment if needed. And please keep the same excellent air flow for the quiet case, the deep R5 front with air slits on both sides is not restrictive, temps only drop 1C or less when opening front vs closed when stress testing. And the top is perfect with vented holes. ie please dont make same mistakes as some others making a solid top with slits on one side (NZXT 440) or shallow solid top with only few holes on each side.(phanteks evolv) causing poor airflow for watercooling to point others start water jetting holes in case to fix air flow.


----------



## schubaltz

I wish I went with the Define S but I found out too late. Watercooling wasn't my initial plan though, just came out of nowhere when I couldn't find any compatible aio for AM4 anywhere.

Had to remove the drive cage below so I can have more work room for my pump, tubing and cables for my psu.





It's quite a challenge working with the Define C especially it was my first time setting up a watercooled set-up but at the end it's quite fulfilling. If I can redo it again though I wish I opted with the Define S. Anyway one thing I'm anticipating now that's surely going to be an issue is getting a gpu as space is limited now especially with front rad at push/pull. I may have to remove the pull fans if the gpu won't fit hopefully not.


----------



## Ksireaper

Anyone know if there are any plans to release a Define S with a Tempered Glass side panel? I really love the S, but want to show off the whole build when i am done.


----------



## TMatzelle60

Well my build is put on hold till CL releases or reviews of it are released to see what i want to do


----------



## Randallel

I was wondering if the Fractal Design Define C has good airflow for a 1080 custom cooled card. What temps are you guys getting for max load?


----------



## pilsen15

Hi everyone, quick question: I'm building my first PC and fell in love with the Define C TG and went with that. Today I got a great deal on a Zotac 1080 from Microcenter ($391!), but just realized it's 325mm and Fractal says the max GPU size with front fan is 315mm. Am I doomed? Is it a PITA / not worth it to try and mount this, or can it work? Thanks!


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilsen15*
> 
> Hi everyone, quick question: I'm building my first PC and fell in love with the Define C TG and went with that. Today I got a great deal on a Zotac 1080 from Microcenter ($391!), but just realized it's 325mm and Fractal says the max GPU size with front fan is 315mm. Am I doomed? Is it a PITA / not worth it to try and mount this, or can it work? Thanks!


Maybe leaving out a fan will give you extra room? Not sure if the Max length includes the fan or doesnt


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilsen15*
> 
> Hi everyone, quick question: I'm building my first PC and fell in love with the Define C TG and went with that. Today I got a great deal on a Zotac 1080 from Microcenter ($391!), but just realized it's 325mm and Fractal says the max GPU size with front fan is 315mm. Am I doomed? Is it a PITA / not worth it to try and mount this, or can it work? Thanks!


I have a FTW3 1080ti that is pretty much 300mm and that leaves 52mm space for a fan so just over 350mm total length for both, you should just about manage it.

https://postimages.org/

Gives you an idea.


----------



## NODeathFR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImTheFreeMan*
> 
> 
> 
> Meshify C with the front foam dust filter removed and replaced with this DEMCiflex dust filter:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747TKJZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> IMO the foam created this weird look to the fans so I swapped it out. You can see the fans much clearer now and the new filter fit perfectly.
> 
> This is what it looked like originally:


Hi,

Have you better airflow without foam or it's the same ? Just without Foam, not with demciflex.

And is it hard or risqued to remove foam ?

Ty for your answer


----------



## pilsen15

Thanks Khemist, so in my situation with the card being 25mm more than you I just wouldn't have a fan there? Looking at your pic it doesn't seem like the 325mm card would fit along with the fan. Is it ok to not have it there?


----------



## TMatzelle60

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilsen15*
> 
> Thanks Khemist, so in my situation with the card being 25mm more than you I just wouldn't have a fan there? Looking at your pic it doesn't seem like the 325mm card would fit along with the fan. Is it ok to not have it there?


Also you have slim line fans


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilsen15*
> 
> Thanks Khemist, so in my situation with the card being 25mm more than you I just wouldn't have a fan there? Looking at your pic it doesn't seem like the 325mm card would fit along with the fan. Is it ok to not have it there?


https://imageshack.com/i/pm7CEILQj

I think you might just be able to fit a fan although it will be very close, also if needed you can fit the fan between the front panel and outside of the case like i have here, the front panel can fit back on fine.


----------



## pilsen15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pm7CEILQj
> 
> I think you might just be able to fit a fan although it will be very close, also if needed you can fit the fan between the front panel and outside of the case like i have here, the front panel can fit back on fine.


Stupid question, but are the fans in the same place in the first pic you sent, or are they on the inside there? So basically it sounds like I have nothing to worry about and no question this card will fit, worst case scenario I just put the fans on the outside like you have here? Your setup looks really awesome so I'm assuming there is no drawback to doing so. Thanks again for your help!


----------



## pilsen15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TMatzelle60*
> 
> Also you have slim line fans


I just looked and found some 12mm fans (https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Slip-Stream-120mm-SY1212SL12L/dp/B002CYPWTG), so it seems like I definitely have options and this card will work! Thank you!


----------



## khemist

First pic they are on the inside like normal, fitting outside the case will somewhat restrict the airflow as they are much closer to the front panel but it's better than no fan.


----------



## pilsen15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> First pic they are on the inside like normal, fitting outside the case will somewhat restrict the airflow as they are much closer to the front panel but it's better than no fan.


Do you think it's better to put those fans on the outside, or get some slim fans for the inside? Actually I imagine I'd only swap one of the included 25mm deep fans with this slim 12mm fan as the GPU would only come up against one of them. Is it ok to have mismatched fans or better to replace both?


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I think you might just be able to fit a fan although it will be very close, also if needed you can fit the fan between the front panel and outside of the case like i have here, *the front panel can fit back on fine*.


Leaving like what, 2-3 millimeters between fan blades and the front panel soundproofing material?


----------



## khemist

Probably, i've got a slimmer rad now for the front of mine so i can fit the fans inside, just need to get around to installing.


----------



## Tony130

my Fractal Design Define C TG.


----------



## cat1092

Anyone notice......on Newegg all of the Define 5 series cases, including the Titanium, are dropping in price.









Waiting for the $49.99 promo to arrive on the R5, $20 left to get there!









Regardless of any minor flaws, these cases are well worth their current asking price of $69.99-79.99 & then some. Yet I don't see any reason, other than the reversible door, to shell out another $20 for the Titanium over the base & sound proofed R5, and don't really care for a window, some reviewers are complaining about a potential flaw. I'll gladly take another R5 & run with it, even though at this time, don't really need a case.









Cat


----------



## Scotty99

R5 is an old design to me, unnecessarily long to accommodate for those hard drive trays. Great build quality tho, and if you can get one for 70 bucks as you claim thats a steal.


----------



## Jeffaffa

My fractal design define s build


----------



## Velathawen

That looks amazing!


----------



## intrasonic

Sneak peek of my Meshify C custom watercooling build... I'll post my final thoughts with the completed pictures once I've finished it.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *intrasonic*
> 
> Sneak peek of my Meshify C custom watercooling build... I'll post my final thoughts with the completed pictures once I've finished it.


I'm assuming those are both ek pe rads? Front a 240 or a 360? From the pics it's hard to say bit looks like a 240.

Which gpu is that?


----------



## intrasonic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> I'm assuming those are both ek pe rads? Front a 240 or a 360? From the pics it's hard to say bit looks like a 240.
> 
> Which gpu is that?


Yes, 2x EK PE 240 radiators. The GPU is the Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Extreme


----------



## Loladinas

Found a second hand MK-26, switched out my Accelero Xtreme with it. Intake fans fit on the inside now, but I think I'm starting to overstuff my poor Mini C







Still waiting for FD to release that mesh front tho...


----------



## StanRex

Hello,

I'm new here, but I had a quick question for owners of the Nano S, before I order one (or not).

Is the clearance between the PSU and GPU an issue in terms of temperatures ?

I'm currently using a SG07, and planning a new build re-using my GPU (MSI GTX970 Gaming 4G) in a new box.

And the Nano S definitely caught my eyes.... I really like its appearance a lot, and the fact that it looks much easier to build than the SG07 (adding even a simple SSD or a chipset fan in that thing is a nightmare, have to prepare to unscrew half the build to be able to access the components...)

However I'm worried about the fact that I've read multiple reviews stating that the thermals of that case were quite bad, because the GPU doesn't have enough space to "breathe" due to the PSU. And I don't plan to watercool the GPU.... (unsure about the CPU, but custom loops are out of the question, and I'm more inclined to use the space available to put a Noctua NH-U12S in there than using an AIO)

So are you guys using powerful air-cooled GPUs in the Nano S happy with the temps ? Or are you getting throttling, or had to resort to "hacks" like using an SFX PSU with a bracket to allow for more clearance between the GPU and PSU ?

Thanks in advance for your help on this matter !


----------



## Scotty99

It gonna raise temps of a dual fan aftermarket card, but its still gonna be cooler than a reference model. If you can swing the extra ~80 bucks go for a hybrid card.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StanRex*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm new here, but I had a quick question for owners of the Nano S, before I order one (or not).
> 
> Is the clearance between the PSU and GPU an issue in terms of temperatures ?
> 
> I'm currently using a SG07, and planning a new build re-using my GPU (MSI GTX970 Gaming 4G) in a new box.
> 
> And the Nano S definitely caught my eyes.... I really like its appearance a lot, and the fact that it looks much easier to build than the SG07 (adding even a simple SSD or a chipset fan in that thing is a nightmare, have to prepare to unscrew half the build to be able to access the components...)
> 
> However I'm worried about the fact that I've read multiple reviews stating that the thermals of that case were quite bad, because the GPU doesn't have enough space to "breathe" due to the PSU. And I don't plan to watercool the GPU.... (unsure about the CPU, but custom loops are out of the question, and I'm more inclined to use the space available to put a Noctua NH-U12S in there than using an AIO)
> 
> So are you guys using powerful air-cooled GPUs in the Nano S happy with the temps ? Or are you getting throttling, or had to resort to "hacks" like using an SFX PSU with a bracket to allow for more clearance between the GPU and PSU ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help on this matter !


I wouldn't call using an sfx psu a hack. It actually looks great in a Nano. I've seen several examples here in fact. Do a Google image search and I think you'll actually dig how it looks while at the same time giving your gpu more room to breathe.

I don't know who's this is or I'd give credit as its on this site but looks very good IMO.



Or with an aio


----------



## Kristodian

Any R5 owners? Is it a good case to buy?


----------



## TeslaHUN

In small cases like Nano S , u want a blower type VGA for sure :


----------



## ITAscribbler

Hello,

I'm a first time builder, browsing for the next component to buy. Now it's the turn of the case. I'm reading and watching reviews about some models, and the Define C caught my attention.

It fits my budget and it seems newbie-friendly. I don't care about RGB stuff or windowed side-panels so I'm looking at the un-windowed version.

This said, does the Define C provide good value for its money against, say, the S340, the Pure Base 600, or the Phanteks P400?


----------



## JackCY

Yeah it should be fine. I like the mini C best with it's dimensions. Though I do prefer cases with 140mm rear fan mount. Such as the R4/5 have. R5 is the most featured one, C has 120mm rear fan only and cuts out the cages etc. The rest I would not bother with since it doesn't have front removed bottom filter, such as the R4 and S, you can mod the R4 to remove filter to front but at this year case makers finally learned it after people were modding it that they should not have made it rear removable but front removable. Some cases... it's like who ever designed them have never used them, it's the same with airflow efficiency on FD and other brands cases, it's poor without modding.


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Found a second hand MK-26, switched out my Accelero Xtreme with it. Intake fans fit on the inside now, but I think I'm starting to overstuff my poor Mini C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for FD to release that mesh front tho...


I have a similar build, except I have a Raijintek Morpheus Mk2, and I still have to find the time and heart my Le Grand Macho. Front intake has 3 120mm bequiet silent wings 3, because I guess I'm an idiot.

It's really quiet now, but I still have issues with airflow : some dust come from the rear grils, pumped by the gpu fans... how fast are your front fans and gpu fans running?


----------



## Loladinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> I have a similar build, except I have a Raijintek Morpheus Mk2, and I still have to find the time and heart my Le Grand Macho. Front intake has 3 120mm bequiet silent wings 3, because I guess I'm an idiot.
> 
> It's really quiet now, but I still have issues with airflow : some dust come from the rear grils, pumped by the gpu fans... how fast are your front fans and gpu fans running?


Yeah, I've replaced fans to make a bit quieter as well, was toying around with CPU overclock so I had the TY-143 on it. Now it's BQ! Silent Wings 3 in front and back, TY-147A on CPU heatsink and two BQ! Pure Wings 2 on the GPU heatsink. They all spin between 500 and 600RPM, temps are fine, roughly 30-40C over ambient.


----------



## sinneduk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristodian*
> 
> Any R5 owners? Is it a good case to buy?


Yeah Still good to buy i'm currently using right now


----------



## sinneduk

Here is my r5 case with custom watercooling. hdd intalled at top of the case and the the is behind the reservoir


----------



## AlphaC

Meshify C seems to have gotten excellent cooling at the expense of noise

https://us.hardware.info/reviews/7513/6/fractal-design-meshify-c-tempered-glass-review-compact-cooling-monster-test-resultsncooling-400-watt

The Corsair 400C is about as noisy despite the front panel design , so the Corsair fans are garbage or the case just isn't dampened.


----------



## Scotty99

How is the be quiet the loudest case by far haha.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StanRex*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm new here, but I had a quick question for owners of the Nano S, before I order one (or not).
> 
> Is the clearance between the PSU and GPU an issue in terms of temperatures ?
> 
> I'm currently using a SG07, and planning a new build re-using my GPU (MSI GTX970 Gaming 4G) in a new box.
> 
> And the Nano S definitely caught my eyes.... I really like its appearance a lot, and the fact that it looks much easier to build than the SG07 (adding even a simple SSD or a chipset fan in that thing is a nightmare, have to prepare to unscrew half the build to be able to access the components...)
> 
> However I'm worried about the fact that I've read multiple reviews stating that the thermals of that case were quite bad, because the GPU doesn't have enough space to "breathe" due to the PSU. And I don't plan to watercool the GPU.... (unsure about the CPU, but custom loops are out of the question, and I'm more inclined to use the space available to put a Noctua NH-U12S in there than using an AIO)
> 
> So are you guys using powerful air-cooled GPUs in the Nano S happy with the temps ? Or are you getting throttling, or had to resort to "hacks" like using an SFX PSU with a bracket to allow for more clearance between the GPU and PSU ?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help on this matter !


Blower type cards are recommended for the Nano S, but we've also tested several dual and triple fan cards and all were able to keep GPU temps well in check. There was one in particular, an overclocked Sapphire 290X Tri-X IIRC, that I fully expected to struggle due to having just ~1mm clearance and fins perpendicular to the bracket, but even that GPU maintained perfectly respectable temps and showed no signs of throttling after a good half hour or so of Unigine on max settings. Unless I'm mistaken though that MSI card you have is a blower type, which should be an ideal match in this case.


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> How is the be quiet the loudest case by far haha.


Fractal Design R5 with stock fans is quietest case they tested.

https://us.hardware.info/category/7/cases/testresults?products%5B%5D=266589&specId=8689&tcId=277


Keep in mind the Pure Base is the cost cut Be Quiet Case, it has the Pure Wings sleeve bearing fans. The In Win 303 doesn't come with fans.


----------



## StanRex

Thanks for the feedback, Define Nano S White ordered !

(you guys should think about making white versions of your case easier to order by the way, had to resort to buying it on ebay from a seller in another country)

I don't doubt it's easier said than done, but aren't white computer cases selling better than black ones these days ?


----------



## Kristodian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinneduk*
> 
> Yeah Still good to buy i'm currently using right now


So guys here saying it has good stock fan/fans... Is it right? Because I was planning to put one 140mm for exhale and 2x120mm for intake all from noctua. I will also have a D15 noctua CPU cooler ... I worrying that there wont be neutral airflow


----------



## AlphaC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristodian*
> 
> So guys here saying it has good stock fan/fans... Is it right? Because I was planning to put one 140mm for exhale and 2x120mm for intake all from noctua. I will also have a D15 noctua CPU cooler ... I worrying that there wont be neutral airflow


The stock fans on the Fractal Design are pretty weak. I would swap in fans at the front/bottom as intake and remove the middle HDD cage. The rear fan can be left alone but the front is highly restrictive.

Of course if your PC is not a high thermal load (i.e. > 300W between the CPU +GPU) even the stock setup will suffice.

Intel i7 on x299 + GTX 1080 (with middle hard drive cage left in, no less) , 2017-09-18 15:36:12 system:


Two NF-A14 intake, 1 NF-A14 exhaust ( 2017-09-18 15:24:46)
X299 + GTX 1080


X299+GTX 1080 ti (2017-09-13 10:30:29)


https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/thermal_images/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-10819
https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/photography/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-10819

https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/thermal_images/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-w-Window-10820
https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/photography/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-w-Window-10820


----------



## Kristodian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaC*
> 
> The stock fans on the Fractal Design are pretty weak. I would swap in fans at the front/bottom as intake and remove the middle HDD cage. The rear fan can be left alone but the front is highly restrictive.
> 
> Of course if your PC is not a high thermal load (i.e. > 300W between the CPU +GPU) even the stock setup will suffice.
> 
> Intel i7 on x299 + GTX 1080 (with middle hard drive cage left in, no less) , 2017-09-18 15:36:12 system:
> 
> 
> Two NF-A14 intake, 1 NF-A14 exhaust ( 2017-09-18 15:24:46)
> X299 + GTX 1080
> 
> 
> X299+GTX 1080 ti (2017-09-13 10:30:29)
> 
> 
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/thermal_images/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-10819
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/photography/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-10819
> 
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/thermal_images/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-w-Window-10820
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/parts/photography/Case/Fractal-Design-Define-R5-Titanium-w-Window-10820


Did I understand it right that 1080ti is cooler then 1080? Which TI is that


----------



## JackCY

It's not, no way. Even from the photos the Ti is dumping more heat. Max temp. wise anything can be depending on cooling but the heat dissipated is way higher on Ti.


----------



## MaKeN

My fractal design s :

I still plan to change for hard tubing




Would still like to fit another rad somewhere, cant find a spot


----------



## Battou62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loladinas*
> 
> Found a second hand MK-26, switched out my Accelero Xtreme with it. Intake fans fit on the inside now, but I think I'm starting to overstuff my poor Mini C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for FD to release that mesh front tho...


Is Fractal releasing a mesh front panel for the Define C series?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Battou62*
> 
> Is Fractal releasing a mesh front panel for the Define C series?


Yes they are, i asked them a while ago.


----------



## Vovchique

Hey guys, is the define c TG much louder than the non-windowed version (since the panel got noise dampening and TG does not)? Both are at the same price point in my country and I'm looking for a quiet build.


----------



## khemist

My define C TG, will take a pic in better lighting later.

360 crossflow v2 rad in the front for now.


----------



## Jod-R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vovchique*
> 
> Hey guys, is the define c TG much louder than the non-windowed version (since the panel got noise dampening and TG does not)? Both are at the same price point in my country and I'm looking for a quiet build.


Wondering about the same. Have tried to search the great web, but my efforts have so far not yielded me anything. I ended buying the the regular C over some other TG cases since I liked the C best. Less than a month after I bought it, the TG version comes out :/ I'm playing with the thought of selling my regular C and switch to the C TG since I really like the look, but not if it means noticable more noise.

Speaking of noise. Currently I have 3 120mm fans in the Define C, the 2 originals and 1 extra Noctua NF-P12 on the intake. If I upgrade the two intake fans to Noctua NF-A14 and the exhaust fan to NF-A15 (and cut away unnecessary metal on the back to make room for the fan and increase airflow). Do you guys think I will notice a noise drop on the system?


----------



## khemist




----------



## ziolean

Hi guys, I have a quick question:

I'm going to use the Nano S for my next build but I was wondering if it's possible to fit a Kraken x62 (280mm) Radiator on the front and, at the same time, if it's possible to fit 2 140mm fans at the top.

Thanks!


----------



## meliewx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tony130*
> 
> my Fractal Design Define C TG.


Can I ask how your temps are? I have the 1080 FTW in a S340 Elite at the moment hitting almost 90c. Think my case is starving the card of air and wondered how the Define C TG may fair in terms of cooling and whether it would be an imporvement

Your build is lovely!


----------



## andreyb

Hi,

yesterday I finished building custom loop in R5 case.
Radiators are Hardware Labs SR2 280 in front and Hardware Labs Nemesis 420GTS X-Flow on top:


----------



## Tony130

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *meliewx*
> 
> Can I ask how your temps are? I have the 1080 FTW in a S340 Elite at the moment hitting almost 90c. Think my case is starving the card of air and wondered how the Define C TG may fair in terms of cooling and whether it would be an imporvement
> 
> Your build is lovely!


thx my evga gtx 1080 ti 72c


----------



## meliewx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tony130*
> 
> thx my evga gtx 1080 ti 72c


Perfect thanks - probably confirmation my current case isn't doing so well for airflow


----------



## fitzy-775

With the define S. Can i fit two 360 rads in the case and what is the thickest rad i will be able to fit in the top.


----------



## avattz

Anyone have discoloration issues with Fractal Design Define C acrylic side window? At angles, it shows something similar to rainbows in the plastic. I wonder if this is normal because I used to have a CM 690 II with side window that didn't have that issue.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> Anyone have discoloration issues with Fractal Design Define C acrylic side window? At angles, it shows something similar to rainbows in the plastic. I wonder if this is normal because I used to have a CM 690 II with side window that didn't have that issue.


That's more a function of how light diffracts through the acrylic that Fractal uses.

I experience the same effect on my Define S panel, and the acrylic itself is still clear. Plexiglass I have at home doesn't exhibit the effect. You only see the rainbow effect when looking at an angle and moving your view around right?


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> That's more a function of how light diffracts through the acrylic that Fractal uses.
> 
> I experience the same effect on my Define S panel, and the acrylic itself is still clear. Plexiglass I have at home doesn't exhibit the effect. You only see the rainbow effect when looking at an angle and moving your view around right?


Yup, at least that clarifies it, I thought it was a defect or something.


----------



## jbach

Hi
Anyone successfully install a 3rd gpu in a Fractal Design S case? If so , could you share a parts list and or pics?
Thanks!


----------



## ziolean

Anyone know how to remove the feet on the Fractal Nano S?


----------



## mnemo_05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziolean*
> 
> Anyone know how to remove the feet on the Fractal Nano S?


it most likely got a screw underneath that anti-slip rubber.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mnemo_05*
> 
> it most likely got a screw underneath that anti-slip rubber.


That is how the Fractal Design R5 feet come off, likely the same. One of the rubber anti-slips had fallen off, so peeled off the other 3, there is a single screw underneath that removes the feet. If you take them off....I replaced the anti-slips with some 1 inch rubber screw-in ones from home depot that had a central depressed hole so screw now hold them in place....works better than the adhesive ones.


----------



## pantsaregood

Does anyone know if the Fractal Design Node 605 has been discontinued? I wanted to buy one to use for a Plex server, but I can't seem to find one anywhere.


----------



## Gdourado

I was thinking about getting a Define C TG.
How is the GPU sag on such a case?
Is it an issue?

Cheers!


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdourado*
> 
> I was thinking about getting a Define C TG.
> How is the GPU sag on such a case?
> Is it an issue?
> 
> Cheers!


It shouldn't be, but really I'd say the motherboard and the GPU itself are the primary factors when it comes to GPU sag, much more so than the case.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziolean*
> 
> Anyone know how to remove the feet on the Fractal Nano S?


As others have suggested, you would need to remove the rubber the pads on the bottom of the feet to access the screw fastening them to the chassis. Are you planning to use the case without feet? If so bear in mind that it would be sitting balanced on the bottom filter and guide rails unless you remove those as well.


----------



## ziolean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> As others have suggested, you would need to remove the rubber the pads on the bottom of the feet to access the screw fastening them to the chassis. Are you planning to use the case without feet? If so bear in mind that it would be sitting balanced on the bottom filter and guide rails unless you remove those as well.


I was looking into removing the feet (temporarily) so I can fit the case more easily in my carry on luggage


----------



## Skylinestar

Today, I replaced the stock Fractal Define R5 fans (Dynamic GP-14) with Phanteks PH-F140SP, 2x at front intake & 1x at bottom intake. All 3 are connected to the case controller set at medium speed. Rear exhaust is the Noctua NF-P14S Redux.


----------



## andre02

Hi all , i just got a Define C (simple version,no windows, no tg, no nothing extra) and it is a great case, easily the best case i have ever owned. Nice work Fractal Design !

Now for a little question, can i make the main blue led blink with HDD activity, like blink heavily anytime the hdd works ?? (i had a case that did that and it was nice visually).


----------



## bmyagkov

Is there chance to put any market 140 mm fan on rear panel into Define C?
Which position of fan provide better performance by removing more heat outside from case? 1 or 2? There is NH-d15 inside if it matters
Personally, i feels like 2 are better
Thanks, guys!


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> Hi all , i just got a Define C (simple version,no windows, no tg, no nothing extra) and it is a great case, easily the best case i have ever owned. Nice work Fractal Design !
> 
> Now for a little question, can i make the main blue led blink with HDD activity, like blink heavily anytime the hdd works ?? (i had a case that did that and it was nice visually).


I have the Define R5. The main power LED is white. When there's hdd activity, the indicator blinks in blue. Is it different on the Define C?

---
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmyagkov*
> 
> Is there chance to put any market 140 mm fan on rear panel into Define C?
> Which position of fan provide better performance by removing more heat outside from case? 1 or 2? There is NH-d15 inside if it matters
> Personally, i feels like 2 are better
> Thanks, guys!


Whichever that aligns best with your CPU cooler


----------



## andre02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> I have the Define R5. The main power LED is white. When there's hdd activity, the indicator blinks in blue. Is it different on the Define C?


If i connected right my mb connectors, the main led of the Define C is blue and when there is hdd activity something inside it blinks white ?? -ish. I don't know , it's hardly noticeable at all you have to look really close, from a distance nothing is blinking. I would want the main one to blink, or something very noticeable when there is activity, but maybe i'm just wishing...


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andre02*
> 
> If i connected right my mb connectors, the main led of the Define C is blue and when there is hdd activity something inside it blinks white ?? -ish. I don't know , it's hardly noticeable at all you have to look really close, from a distance nothing is blinking. I would want the main one to blink, or something very noticeable when there is activity, but maybe i'm just wishing...


Just swap the connectors (connect to motherboard headers)


----------



## JackCY

You can connect the LEDs any way you want. R4 customized in my avatar, *********** led, blue "HDD" led but I have mine to only blink on start up and then they are completely off both as I find leds, especially blinking, annoying.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> It shouldn't be, but really I'd say the motherboard and the GPU itself are the primary factors when it comes to GPU sag, much more so than the case.


Definitely, there is almost nothing any case can do about GPU sag except bundle in some GPU support that one can use if desired, but I think such supports are often DIYed anyway or bought separately or come with GPU even or aftermarket GPU cooler and so on.


----------



## Scotty99

Is there a top filter available for the nano s? Similar to what the define c has.


----------



## JackCY

That's a mesh grill not a filter, certainly not against dust, more like against small animals.

No mesh/filter on Nano S on top only cover.

Honestly if you want dust filters on any PC case, true dust filters, either buy them or make them yourself. You can find comparison pictures of stock R4 vs #200 stainless steel mesh here in gallery by me. I think demci uses around #100 mesh.

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/14220_20#post_25221723
http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/14200_20#post_25210274




If you want just the plastic grill thing, not a dust filter in any sense, maybe ebay or local hardware store might have something if you're lucky.


----------



## Scotty99

I would be using the top as an exhaust, nano s top just looks poor with the top cover off. Define c and meshify have a nice finished look with that included "mesh cover" as you like to put


----------



## JackCY

It will block crap load of airflow. Unless it fits from other case of FD then you will have to DIY one. If it fits from other case then ask them if they sell it as a spare part or someone may have it and sell it.


----------



## K1mer0

Guys, i have the define C, its a great case...
When i bought it, the TG one , was not even available...is it possible to put a TG panel in mine? with some kind of adapters? Did any one tried already?
Thanks in advance


----------



## JackCY

It sure can be done.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Is there a top filter available for the nano s? Similar to what the define c has.


Yeah it is a shame other cases, including my Fractal design R5, doesnt have the mesh top alternative like the define C got, looks so much better than depressed open grill.

The top mesh is 6% restrictive by itself, top mesh with wire air filter underneath is 15% restrictive. A demciflex filter by itself is 15% restrictive. (testing with calibrated probes in water and on each fan intake on mine). Im using top as intake so I need mesh/filter, you would just need mesh (6% restriction).

I ended up buying corsiar 750D mesh top for $7, but it wasnt wide enough. I cut length to fit, then cut 1cm strip to add to width, and cut and reglued magnets. I though it was wide enough, but just missed it by 1cm. It might be wide enough for nano, dont know, will still have to cut length, cuts easily with regular scissors.

Here is a pic of mine:

old way with demciflex filter made for FD R5 (15% restriction, looks ok not great, very effective dust filter as has finest filter)


with just grill (plus tape over nonradded area to prevent air recirculation). Also have an ultra fine metal screen over grill, roughly 9-10% restrictive, not as fine or restrictive as demciflex filter. Also have my 24/7 temp sensor but not testing ones in place.


My newer solution, has mesh over grill/metal filter, total of 15% restriction, least ugly.


----------



## K1mer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It sure can be done.


I´ve seen in other define cases, i need something like this right?



where can i buy this?


----------



## JackCY

Either buy the glass and stuff from FD, or DIY what's missing or DIY the whole thing.


----------



## [email protected]

Anyone have experience mounting P/P 280mm (H115i) in the front of the new(er) Define CTG?

I'm thinking about moving my rig back into a Fractal case, and I want to know if I am going to run into issues mounting the front fans (outside of the frame, behind the front cover)

If that won't work....any problems mounting 280mm's in the top? (obviously not P/P)

Thanks all!


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> Anyone have experience mounting P/P 280mm (H115i) in the front of the new(er) Define CTG?
> 
> I'm thinking about moving my rig back into a Fractal case, and I want to know if I am going to run into issues mounting the front fans (outside of the frame, behind the front cover)
> 
> If that won't work....any problems mounting 280mm's in the top? (obviously not P/P)
> 
> Thanks all!


I have fractal Design window Case, you wont have any issues. There is 1 inch of side clearance so even if the tempered glass takes a couple mm off side clearance it wont matter.

here is pic of my 280 54 mm gtx rad in push pull in front. up top is 280 30mm gts rad (and yeah cant do p/p) at top. 55m clearance at top. you will have to remove all drive cages in front, and I cut up the top one to make a mount for my fan controller.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> I have fractal Design window Case, you wont have any issues. There is 1 inch of side clearance so even if the tempered glass takes a couple mm off side clearance it wont matter.
> 
> here is pic of my 280 54 mm gtx rad in push pull in front. up top is 280 30mm gts rad (and yeah cant do p/p) at top. 55m clearance at top. you will have to remove all drive cages in front, and I cut up the top one to make a mount for my fan controller.


I have the last generation Define R4 Window --- I was referencing the Define C (Tempered Glass) which has a full basement shroud and no optical drive support.

I was under the impression that the internal dimensions were different (shorter length-wise)?


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[email protected]*
> 
> I have the last generation Define R4 Window --- I was referencing the Define C (Tempered Glass) which has a full basement shroud and no optical drive support.
> 
> I was under the impression that the internal dimensions were different (shorter length-wise)?


oops, I was thinking R5 for some reason, instead of Define C. yeah not sure then.


----------



## [email protected]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> oops, I was thinking R5 for some reason, instead of Define C. yeah not sure then.


No problem!

I want to replicate 1:1 the setup I have in my S340 Elite (which has an ugly 140mm top exhaust....the new Define CTG has a nice mesh filter, similar to the Corsair Obsidian Series)


----------



## AlphaTrain

I'm currently attempting to build a hardline watercooling loop containing a 8700k and 2x1080 ti. I want to build in the Fractal Design Define S because of its immense radiator support and watercooling support in general.

The two questions I want to ask are:

1. What is the Radiator Configs Possible on this case? I'm currently attempting to run a 30mm 420mm(3x140mm) on the top and a 30mm 360mm(3x120mm) on the front. If it is not possible, what is the next best possible config?

2. I also want to mod the side panel into a full tempered glass one. I want to know if this is possible or not possible. If possible, what would be the best methods to do so and how would i achieve this in total? What kind of thumbscrews and nuts would i need for the glass, how big the glass should be, and where should i drill and place the holes in the glass.

Thanks!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> I have fractal Design window Case, you wont have any issues. There is 1 inch of side clearance so even if the tempered glass takes a couple mm off side clearance it wont matter.
> 
> here is pic of my 280 54 mm gtx rad in push pull in front. up top is 280 30mm gts rad (and yeah cant do p/p) at top. 55m clearance at top. you will have to remove all drive cages in front, and I cut up the top one to make a mount for my fan controller.


Is that zmt tubing or some other solid black? Also, am I correct in that you used a 90 adapter from the gpu to the res/drain port to give it sort of a faux hardline look? Of so, I love it! I just might have to steal your idea when I tear down and rebuild my loop.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Is that zmt tubing or some other solid black? Also, am I correct in that you used a 90 adapter from the gpu to the res/drain port to give it sort of a faux hardline look? Of so, I love it! I just might have to steal your idea when I tear down and rebuild my loop.


It is primochill advanced LRT black. I have zmt tubing which recently bought, but havent tried it yet to see which looks better. And yeah, i tried hardline but it is too easy to pull out tube from fitting since only held in place with a compressed o ring, so felt uneasy with it and went back to soft tubing. I like the straight lines of hardline, so tried to make soft tubing straight when possible.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> It is primochill advanced LRT black. I have zmt tubing which recently bought, but havent tried it yet to see which looks better. And yeah, i tried hardline but it is too easy to pull out tube from fitting since only held in place with a compressed o ring, so felt uneasy with it and went back to soft tubing. I like the straight lines of hardline, so tried to make soft tubing straight when possible.


Well it turned out nicely. I'm using zmt now and from the looks of it, the primo appears to be a little more glossy than the zmt.

I'm a little bummed I stuck with the nickel fittings when expanding my predator instead of moving over to black. Now that I have a custom loop o think the black would've looked better with the zmt. Too late, at least for now. Fittings are just too pricey to change over just for color. Think I'll pick up a few of those angled adapters now that my 2nd radiator showed up. Gonna be tight fitting everything in a matx case.


----------



## fleetfeather

Nickel fittings and blocks with ZMT is by far my favourite colour combo


----------



## Skylinestar

Read this on [H] today:
Quote:


> I got this case too and it seems like the front mesh restricts airflow compared to the other fractal cases with the regular filters. Any opinions on this?


Really? The whole mesh has less airflow than the slots on the sides of Define C / S / R5?


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleetfeather*
> 
> Nickel fittings and blocks with ZMT is by far my favourite colour combo


Yeah it does look good. Maybe I'm just tired of seeing it and am itching for something new. We'll see when I put the other rad in.


----------



## bloodyredd

What cpu cooler would you guys suggest when using a define c mini or meshify c? I’ve heard that there are issues with front aio rads if the gpu is around 300mm long. I was planning to get a h110i and put it on the front.


----------



## JackCY

Air coolers, they work just fine, don't leak, cost less, perform about the same and are quieter. AIO/CLC pass, if you want to do water then do a custom loop with copper rads etc.


----------



## dwolvin

Hi all,
I'm rebuilding a define XL and wondered if there was an aftermarket source of rubber grommets? Mine are falling apart and Fractal doesn't have any spares anymore. If nothing else, I might just curtain them with black neoprene...


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm rebuilding a define XL and wondered if there was an aftermarket source of rubber grommets? Mine are falling apart and Fractal doesn't have any spares anymore. If nothing else, I might just curtain them with black neoprene...


Odds are slim, unfortunately. I did some searching myself to see what alternatives I could find, and I didn't see anything resembling a close fit for the Define XL in terms of replacement parts. I did however run across this video showing how to make your own (more or less), and it actually doesn't look half bad considering how simple it is: 




Wish there was more I could offer, but given the age of the parts I'm thinking DIY is probably your best option.


----------



## Timmaigh!

Could anyone please give me any advice how to solve my little conudrum in regard to watercooling and space inside case?

I bought my system (in sig) about a year ago. I have CPU cooled by Corsair H105, mounted in the front position. Above it, i kept the ODD cage, where i fit 2 HDDs - since i had to get rid of all the cages cause of the radiator.

Now, i bought new board and CPU, 7940x. Both still in their boxes. Since i want to OC the CPU somewhat and my current AiO may not be up to the task, i am considering selling H105 alongside current CPU and mobo and buying another, stronger AiO, most likely 360mm one.

The thing is, if i got it and wanted to mount it into front position again, i would need to get rid of the ODD cage. However if i did remove it, i have no clue where to put my HDDs.... do you have any idea how to solve this? I mean, bar mounting the AiO up top, i would prefer not to do that, cause of the noise, i would rather keep my case as much "closed" as possible.

I was already thinking about getting NAS server and move them there, cause one of the HDDs, WD Caviar Black, is rather loud, actually louder than all the fans, when computer is not at high load. That would certainly solve my problem. But between new mobo, CPU, one more nvme drive, now 360mm AiO, thats quite an investment already, so this NAS thing will probably have to wait till next year...so the HDDs need to stay in for the time being....

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timmaigh!*
> 
> Could anyone please give me any advice how to solve my little conudrum in regard to watercooling and space inside case?
> 
> I bought my system (in sig) about a year ago. I have CPU cooled by Corsair H105, mounted in the front position. Above it, i kept the ODD cage, where i fit 2 HDDs - since i had to get rid of all the cages cause of the radiator.
> 
> Now, i bought new board and CPU, 7940x. Both still in their boxes. Since i want to OC the CPU somewhat and my current AiO may not be up to the task, i am considering selling H105 alongside current CPU and mobo and buying another, stronger AiO, most likely 360mm one.
> 
> The thing is, if i got it and wanted to mount it into front position again, i would need to get rid of the ODD cage. However if i did remove it, i have no clue where to put my HDDs.... do you have any idea how to solve this? I mean, bar mounting the AiO up top, i would prefer not to do that, cause of the noise, i would rather keep my case as much "closed" as possible.
> 
> I was already thinking about getting NAS server and move them there, cause one of the HDDs, WD Caviar Black, is rather loud, actually louder than all the fans, when computer is not at high load. That would certainly solve my problem. But between new mobo, CPU, one more nvme drive, now 360mm AiO, thats quite an investment already, so this NAS thing will probably have to wait till next year...so the HDDs need to stay in for the time being....
> 
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.


On mobile so no idea what case you have.


----------



## Timmaigh!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> On mobile so no idea what case you have.


Define R5


----------



## fleetfeather

170mm Seasonic Prime fits quite well in the Nano S despite being 10mm longer than recommended in the specs... Just remember to route your power cables through the gromet prior to installing the PSU itself, and you shouldn't have too many dramas


----------



## beberobu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> All 3 are connected to the case controller set at medium speed.


What case controller? It comes with the case?
Cheers!

L.E. I've searched on google... i didnt know this case come with a integrated fan controller








How you connected those 3 fans, each separately or all 3 on same wire?


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beberobu*
> 
> What case controller? It comes with the case?
> Cheers!
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


If you look to the left of the power LED there's a little switch that lets you do low, medium, high for fan speed.


----------



## Skylinestar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beberobu*
> 
> What case controller? It comes with the case?
> Cheers!
> 
> L.E. I've searched on google... i didnt know this case come with a integrated fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How you connected those 3 fans, each separately or all 3 on same wire?


Hope it helps








http://support.fractal-design.com/support/solutions/articles/4000055489-define-r5-connect-the-fans


----------



## JackCY

It's just a switch not a controller, all it does is the oldschool 5,7,12V to the fans. A controller would have actual electronics in it and ability to adjust both PWM and voltage in indefinite number of steps.
There is no need to use this switch or even controllers since most mobos have plenty fan ports and control capabilities that can be tied to CPU, GPU, mobo temperature etc.


----------



## beberobu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> If you look to the left of the power LED there's a little switch that lets you do low, medium, high for fan speed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylinestar*
> 
> Hope it helps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://support.fractal-design.com/support/solutions/articles/4000055489-define-r5-connect-the-fans


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It's just a switch not a controller, all it does is the oldschool 5,7,12V to the fans. A controller would have actual electronics in it and ability to adjust both PWM and voltage in indefinite number of steps.
> There is no need to use this switch or even controllers since most mobos have plenty fan ports and control capabilities that can be tied to CPU, GPU, mobo temperature etc.


Oh, nice. Thank you pals!


----------



## MightEMatt

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightEMatt*
> 
> Just got a loop together in a Mini C. Figured I'd post this since I've yet to come across an SLI build with dual 240 rads in this case yet. Every build I've seen was mostly single GPU with horizontal reservoirs. Was a pretty tight fit but I ended up having a bit more space than I expected. It isn't particularly pretty but it keeps things cool. Once I'm done bleeding the loop I'll hopefully be able to strap in the reservoir, but as is at least I can close it up.
> 
> At the very least I hope it helps anybody planning a similar build with the fitment. Once you get a second GPU in there you pretty much eliminate any practical reservoir mounting locations. It was the last thing I added since I wasn't even sure which res I'd end up using until I could see how much space I had left.






Well I'm not going to win any points for style, but I ended up redoing my loop in the Define Mini C. I swapped out the Apogee Drive II for an EK Supremacy X99, and used a D5 pump/res combo to add some extra challenge. It ended up taking a couple hours of cutting and re-cutting tubing until I decided on the loop order and tube routing around and behind the pump. So for anybody looking to do their own custom loop in the Mini C I hope my experience can help a little. For reference, I see full system load temperatures around 66°C across the board. Not quite the chilly temperatures some like to see, but probably the best I can get out of this configuration.



PS, I'm the worst photographer in existence, but if anybody needs any info or pictures for clearance just ask.


----------



## Timmaigh!

OK guys, one more question, easier than the previous one











With the smaller HDD cage inside of Define R5 mounted like this, can i have 2 GPUs or will the bottom one collide with the cage?

The Mobo will be this:



cards will be obviously in the top slot and then i assume the third one of the 5 (for 16x lanes). Seems to me from that first pic, that the cage woul collide potentially if i mounted GPU in the 4th slot (or the bottom one obviously), but third slot should be fine?

EDIT:

After further inspection, this seems to be my exact case:



except obviously i would want to move the cage in the middle position, closer to PSU. Difficult to say from that pic, whether it would exactly fit under the GPU shroud or not.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pn0bxAoTj

Replaced my Silver cables with Black, just need to replace the White pci slot covers with Black ones for a more stealthy look.





Edit - Done that now, i'll probably do rigid tubing again now as i'm off on holiday for the week and can't seem to stop tinkering.


----------



## jaKalaKn

Hey Guys

*I have a question for any MESHIFY C owners.*

If you take out the drive bay (I'm only using SSD) what is the max size PSU i can get in there? Fractal website says 170 I think but was hoping that someone who has one could check to see if without the drive bay weather or not you could slide a longer PSU in?...

Problem is I have a perfectly good AX1200 from a few years ago and was hoping to use it in this case.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## schubaltz

change the routing of the tubes for the third time. Gives me more wiggle room in case I need to remove or change gpu. I'd say it looks more natural too.

before:




after:


----------



## encrypted11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pn0bxAoTj
> 
> Replaced my Silver cables with Black, just need to replace the White pci slot covers with Black ones for a more stealthy look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - Done that now, i'll probably do rigid tubing again now as i'm off on holiday for the week and can't seem to stop tinkering.


What's that LED strip called? Looks cool.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *encrypted11*
> 
> What's that LED strip called? Looks cool.


RGB DarkSide connect dimmable rigid LED Strip 30cm, i use two of them.


----------



## encrypted11

Neat stuff.


----------



## Fractal Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaKalaKn*
> 
> Hey Guys
> 
> *I have a question for any MESHIFY C owners.*
> 
> If you take out the drive bay (I'm only using SSD) what is the max size PSU i can get in there? Fractal website says 170 I think but was hoping that someone who has one could check to see if without the drive bay weather or not you could slide a longer PSU in?...
> 
> Problem is I have a perfectly good AX1200 from a few years ago and was hoping to use it in this case.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


The official specs for the Meshify C, Define C, and Define Mini C don't go into quite this level of detail on the subject, but the actual reason behind the 175mm max length recommendation is simply that PSUs longer than this will touch the forward base vent without rubber padding to dampen vibrations. Basically, if your PSU isn't prone to buzzing and you don't mind it touching the case, you can go well over 175mm without issue in many configurations.

That said, here are my best estimates on max PSU length after my own personal tests and measurements:

-HDD cage removed, no HDD: 215mm
-HDD cage removed, HDD mounted to case floor: 175mm (assuming connections on PSU clear the HDD, ~150mm if they don't)
-HDD cage in max forward position: 210mm + 25mm for cables
-HDD cage in max rear position: 145mm + 25mm for cables


----------



## Goatee

My latest build in a slightly modded Define Mini.

New front plate to support Rad, Power LED changed to support RGB (linked to water temp). Custom rear fan cover / Res holder.






My first time using EK Tubing and HDC fittings, not perfect but I am pretty pleased with the outcome. Fans sit silently at 750 [email protected], water temp at 22 degrees. Cool and quiet.

Loop is an aquacomputer D5, 7 * SanAce 120's on two 60mm thick rads running off a watercooled Aquero 5.


----------



## khemist

Changed my define again, going to remove the 90 degree fitting at the top and just have a bend.


----------



## Fractal Design

Just a quick heads up for all the folks that have been asking for this literally for years now:

The Define R5 White with window is finally on sale at Newegg:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352053

Final price is $99 w/ free shipping and the deal's good 'til Nov. 1st.

Seems like not a week goes by that I don't see it requested, yet by some strange twist of fate this just never has happened since the Define R5 White launched so long ago.

No idea if or when it'll happen again, so if anyone's interested in picking up an R5 White I'd say now's the time to do so.


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Changed my define again, going to remove the 90 degree fitting at the top and just have a bend.


Looks good, I actually liked the black tubing better ;p What's your clocks and thermals like ?


----------



## HZCH

@khemist, we really need a buildlog - or a link to it ?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Looks good, I actually liked the black tubing better ;p What's your clocks and thermals like ?


Running at 5.0 just now, will run realbench later and report temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> @khemist, we really need a buildlog - or a link to it ?


I don't have one i'm afraid, i already had the build put together, just woke up one morning and decided to switch tubing, didn't plan it out really.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Looks good, I actually liked the black tubing better ;p What's your clocks and thermals like ?


https://postimages.org/

Running my 7700k at 4.8 1.28v after running realbench.


----------



## fakeblood

New project in the works ///Meshify. M Performance inspired.

Finished up the case. Will be a while before I move some hardware into it unfortunately.

https://imageshack.com/i/pnpItDpSj
https://imageshack.com/i/pm9jOd5yj
https://imageshack.com/i/pmnX3QFfj
https://imageshack.com/i/poI2mKZMj
https://imageshack.com/i/pojBnA4Ij


----------



## kd5151

Hello.









Has anyone in here went from a fractal design arc midi r2 to a meshify/define c. If so,what are your thoughts? Thanks.

PS TALK ME OUT OF A NEW CASE!


----------



## khemist

https://postimg.org/image/4qfczax0t7/

One less 90 degree fitting, different res top and no more drain.


----------



## khemist

https://postimg.org/image/1kf347ku0b/

Different reservoir and holder, also changed to a D5 pump.


----------



## fakeblood

Haha do you change your rig daily?


----------



## khemist

It seems so at the minute







- to be fair the ddc was making a bit of an annoying noise and had to be changed.


----------



## TheBloodEagle

Odd request but does anyone have a dead on shot of the front of the Meshify-C with the Power & HDD LED showing through?


----------



## uk80glue

Ordered a Define S Window this afternoon to replace my View 27. I'll post up some pics when I the system swapped over in a few days.


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/pm2fLVPoj
https://imageshack.com/i/pm09UEDCj


----------



## teflontanten

This is my build *"Camouflaged Gold"* in a *Fractal Design Define Mini C TG*.
Custom loop and brass tubing.





See my build log here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1641111/build-log-camouflaged-gold-fractal-design-define-mini-c-tg-custom-loop-with-brass-tubing-build-complete


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Stout!


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Looks good, I actually liked the black tubing better ;p What's your clocks and thermals like ?


https://postimages.org/

Temps after 2 hours of BF1, GPU max 41c.

7700k @ 4.8 1.26v, rad fans at 1200rpm, dialed down the LLC to level 4.


----------



## Spera15

Hi all!

I finally received a Fractal Design Arc Midi R2!

I started mounting the components, while I'm still waiting for a i7-8700k to be back in stock and buy it.

I was really impressed by the quality of the engineering of this case. Modularity is awesome, the materials are great, all the holes are marked to make it easy to use the correct screws, the cable management holes are conveniently placed, three inlets have dust covers... and it comes with 3 super-silent 14cm fans! Aesthetically it is also very pleasant and the window is a very nice touch without it being too extreme.
I really cannot find anything wrong!
Maybe the only slightly useless thing is the fan control switch in the front, as I connected all the fans to the motherboard.

Really happy with the choice!


----------



## aaronpiatt

A little Node 804 build.


----------



## uk80glue

Got everything swapped over tonight. Still need to do a little rearranging with some cables and whatnot and I'll try to get a less potato pic when I do.


----------



## NV43

Finished my rebuild in the Meshify C a couple weeks back and figured I'd share.


----------



## L35k0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/pn0bxAoTj
> 
> Replaced my Silver cables with Black, just need to replace the White pci slot covers with Black ones for a more stealthy look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit - Done that now, i'll probably do rigid tubing again now as i'm off on holiday for the week and can't seem to stop tinkering.


Nice case build, can you tell me what black PCI bracket did you use?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L35k0*
> 
> Nice case build, can you tell me what black PCI bracket did you use?


I took them from my Silverstone FT05 but you can buy them, Silverstone aeroslots.


----------



## Gruff

For those with a Define C or Meshify C, is it possible to mount the third 120mm fan (in the lowest spot) without moving the hdd cage back from its default spot?


----------



## NewType88

@ khemist
Nice. Just the cpu ? Shouldn't you stress test the CPU/GPU at the same time ? Since its all on the same loop.


----------



## khemist

ignore.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> @ khemist
> Nice. Just the cpu ? Shouldn't you stress test the CPU/GPU at the same time ? Since its all on the same loop.


Posted temps here -

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/16000_100#post_26423525


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Posted temps here -
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/16000_100#post_26423525


Doh, I skipped over that apparently. lol thanks.


----------



## estrada2501

hi im newbie on this fourum but have been watching this thread for a while. Currently im planning to build first custom loop in define C. i would like to seek help from wizard of custom loop . is it possible to fit 240 and 360 rad(magicool g2 slim) ? front mounted 360 with fans out of the case and top mounted rad inlet facing front.
i have 7700k delidded and evga1080 ftw hybrid . I thought it wont be overkill since i am planning to OC both.
Now planning to get smallest ek res pump combo (with ddc 3.2) mounted somewhere in the bottom, on top of psu shroud.. is it possible?


----------



## MightEMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *estrada2501*
> 
> hi im newbie on this fourum but have been watching this thread for a while. Currently im planning to build first custom loop in define C. i would like to seek help from wizard of custom loop . is it possible to fit 240 and 360 rad(magicool g2 slim) ? front mounted 360 with fans out of the case and top mounted rad inlet facing front.
> i have 7700k delidded and evga1080 ftw hybrid . I thought it wont be overkill since i am planning to OC both.
> Now planning to get smallest ek res pump combo (with ddc 3.2) mounted somewhere in the bottom, on top of psu shroud.. is it possible?


You could fit that with the fans _inside_ the case with room to spare, assuming the FTW isn't longer than reference.

Edit: As for the res/pump, the Mini C can fit a horizontal res under a single GPU so the full fat C could surely fit a res/pump.


----------



## KaffieneKing

I can confirm you can, I mounted a DDC and EK Res there.


----------



## bobfig

whew.. got a strix 1080 and it barely fits in the define r2. still moving on to the phanteks eclipse p400.


----------



## JAM3S121

I'm going to guess the tempered glass window is 100% not compatible with the windowed version? I bought my case in july after being bummed fractal did not have a TG case for the define C. Looks like it came out while I wasn't paying attention


----------



## JackCY

The attachment probably differs since glass panels uses different one often. You would have to DIY it.


----------



## estrada2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightEMatt*
> 
> You could fit that with the fans _inside_ the case with room to spare, assuming the FTW isn't longer than reference.
> 
> Edit: As for the res/pump, the Mini C can fit a horizontal res under a single GPU so the full fat C could surely fit a res/pump.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaffieneKing*
> 
> I can confirm you can, I mounted a DDC and EK Res there.


Sorry for my late reply, Thank you for giving me an idea how to mount the res+pump in the case!
I have just ordered fittings from formulamods. While waiting gotta order pump res and rad.
It would be some time before i get hands on loop since i will be busy till end of this month.
Will update here as Define C owner(hopefully).


----------



## Renq86

Hi, can anyone confirm that you can install 3x140mm fans in front of the Meshify C, thank you... i think its waste of space if you cant.... Thank you. I'm thinking of getting Meshify c and thermaltakes riings14 or corsair ll14 fans in front... and i want three of them.


----------



## JackCY

Not by default, DIY only.


----------



## Renq86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Not by default, DIY only.


How much should i modify it? Any tutorial available?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renq86*
> 
> How much should i modify it? Any tutorial available?


I highly doubt, even with mods, that youll be able to fit 3x140. 3x120 already takes up almost all the front.


----------



## shedd

Hello folks,
Just finished a Meshify C build and have a question.
So I noticed the Power LED is the blue light at the top left of the front mesh, but where is the HDD activity LED? For the life of me I couldn't find it, and I'm wondering if I connected the case LEDs to the mobo wrong. I did check twice though the negative and positive sides so I'm pretty confident I connected them right.


----------



## khemist

The meshify front panel is now up on the spare parts website but not in stock yet.

It should be in stock in a month or so for anyone interested.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shedd*
> 
> Hello folks,
> Just finished a Meshify C build and have a question.
> So I noticed the Power LED is the blue light at the top left of the front mesh, but where is the HDD activity LED? For the life of me I couldn't find it, and I'm wondering if I connected the case LEDs to the mobo wrong. I did check twice though the negative and positive sides so I'm pretty confident I connected them right.


The HDD light is in the exact same place as the power light. Maybe try some file transfers to see if it starts flickering?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renq86*
> 
> How much should i modify it? Any tutorial available?


Tutorial don't know any for case modding. Dremel is what I recommend using.
As far as what fits or not, get a case measure it and decide for yourself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I highly doubt, even with mods, that youll be able to fit 3x140. 3x120 already takes up almost all the front.


If the height is big enough as in the 440mm or what it is then it could fit. R4 is 464 with feet which is a little more than MeshC and there is a bit of space left and needed for IO panel cables.
3x120mm is for sure a safer bet for any of these cases. I just don't use any 120mm fans.

No idea when I will get to cutting up the R4 some more, waiting for stuff and it's winter.


----------



## mnemo_05

did this on my core 500 two days ago, need to have access to the bottom of my mobo for the m.2 slot.

i should have done this on the day i made that front intake, oh well it is all done now =)


----------



## voidpointer

I want to add a 420 radiator to my R5 (top) and i am trying to figure out where to mount a pump while still having the smallest hdd cage. Are there any mouting options to that cage or other solutions?


----------



## Ithanul

Doing another switch out on my Define S. Shoved an EATX in it.


----------



## Scotty99

Would these black pci-e covers fit the define c tg?
http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=1056

Out of stock atm, hopefully they come back in soon.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Would these black pci-e covers fit the define c tg?
> http://www.fractal-design-shop.de/index.php?a=1056
> 
> Out of stock atm, hopefully they come back in soon.


They're standard PCI-E slot covers, they'll fit any case.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> They're standard PCI-E slot covers, they'll fit any case.


Hmm never even crossed my mind that pci slot covers were universal lol. I just want to do my own "blackout" version of define c tg, in that case these would work aye?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Maximum-Steel-Profile-Expansion-Vented-PCI-Slot-Cover-plate-10-Packs-Black/351942614380?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D49452%26meid%3Db97185b43f754c12a8d45b861a299dd4%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D253097298014&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%253A7cbd2563-cf3b-11e7-879b-74dbd180c36a%257Cparentrq%253Ae1ee369215f0a86676be680cfff9556b%257Ciid%253A1


----------



## Scotty99

Also what would you guys suggest for front intake fans? I cant decide on 2 140's or 3 120's, i was thinking either the new black noctuas or fractal venturis.

Or any other quiet fan you guys can suggest.


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Hmm never even crossed my mind that pci slot covers were universal lol. I just want to do my own "blackout" version of define c tg, in that case these would work aye?
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Maximum-Steel-Profile-Expansion-Vented-PCI-Slot-Cover-plate-10-Packs-Black/351942614380?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D49452%26meid%3Db97185b43f754c12a8d45b861a299dd4%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D253097298014&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%253A7cbd2563-cf3b-11e7-879b-74dbd180c36a%257Cparentrq%253Ae1ee369215f0a86676be680cfff9556b%257Ciid%253A1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Also what would you guys suggest for front intake fans? I cant decide on 2 140's or 3 120's, i was thinking either the new black noctuas or fractal venturis.
> 
> Or any other quiet fan you guys can suggest.


Any replacement PCIE slot cover would work, so yeah, those are fine.

The Noctua NF-A14 is a reliable high performing option, esp since the new chromax ones are black out of the box. Might be pricey for your taste, in which case the Phanteks PH-F140MP will suffice as a good alternative, or the be quiet SW3s.


----------



## Scotty99

So you would roll with two nf-a14's rather than 3 nf-f12's for intake? Chromax line, of course


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> So you would roll with two nf-a14's rather than 3 nf-f12's for intake? Chromax line, of course


I would, having owned two NF-A14s and two NF-F12s I can say that I've never been particularly impressed with the NF-F12s, since there are a multitude of other 120mm fans that are more competitive in noise or airflow. EK Vardars at 800-950rpm are my preference, but they do have their quirks (if the fan screws is screwed too tightly to my Predator radiator it causes ticking on idle at 800+rpm, and there's still the low speed bearing grumble), be quiet SW3s are quieter http://thermalbench.com/2016/10/21/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-120-mm-high-speed-fan/3/ and higher performing for the same noise level as NF-F12s, the list goes on (PH-F120MP, Corsair ML120s.) Point is, the NF-F12s have never been impressive or particularly good compared to other options.

The NF-A14 on the other hand is http://thermalbench.com/2016/07/29/corsair-ml140-pro-140-mm-fan/3/ very competitive, (as are the ML140s and Vardar 140s), along with the be quiet SW3 140s. http://thermalbench.com/2016/10/31/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140-mm-high-speed-fan/


----------



## JackCY

Personally just get the cheapest fans in size you want. Such as Arctic, Gelid or even the SilentiumPC. Instead of 1 Noctua fan you get 4 fans that last and work the same, no joke.

FD R4, HDD added for now, until spring I guess when it will be warm again so I can cut and paint the case in garage.
Or does anyone have experience with MTN 94 colors and 0-5C temperatures? XD I don't like painting anything when it's under 10C.



The dark green bungee stays, I got a black one now but in no mood to temporarily redo a temporary thing.


----------



## Scotty99

I haz joined club:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/w96DD8

Ill post pics when i get er together next week.


----------



## jpm888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I haz joined club:
> https://pcpartpicker.com/list/w96DD8
> 
> Ill post pics when i get er together next week.


Nice build!!
Can you check if you can fit the 240 rad on top with the trident z? It will be impossible to put it in front since a strix is too long

I have similar parts and want to move to a meshify c


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpm888*
> 
> Nice build!!
> Can you check if you can fit the 240 rad on top with the trident z? It will be impossible to put it in front since a strix is too long
> 
> I have similar parts and want to move to a meshify c


Im sure hoping it fits up top, like you said thats only place it'll fit with a strix lol. Ill post when i get my stuffz.

Kyle did a x299 build with trident z and got a 240 in roof, then again i did not check on this stuff and maybe rgb is taller lol?


----------



## jpm888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Im sure hoping it fits up top, like you said thats only place it'll fit with a strix lol. Ill post when i get my stuffz.
> 
> Kyle did a x299 build with trident z and got a 240 in roof, then again i did not check on this stuff and maybe rgb is taller lol?


X299 and certain x370 have ram placements a lot lower, usually covering the first pcie

I saw this pcpartpicker with a 240 rad on top but its a custom loop https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Whjypg


----------



## beatmyface

Waiting on primochill and EKWB orders to come in to be able to finish. Love building in the Define S so far


----------



## Sunsoar

I am awaiting my Meshify C to start my build as well.

I have an X370 Taichi paired with 1800X. RX 64 Vega LC and Trident Z RGB

I have a Deepcool 240EX Captain RGB for cooling and I bought a set of those Corsair LL120s. I was originally going to swap out the fans on the Deepcool and the Vega so I can mount the Deepcool on top and the Vega Radiator on the rear. Not sure that will all fit though.

So my next idea is to mount the Vega Radiator and the Deepcool radiator in the front and just have the corsairs lighting up on top and rear.

Thoughts to those already built or building in this case?


----------



## Scotty99

I just got this thing today and its tiny, i love it!

One question about the meshify tho, i already ordered the s340 front dust filter from demciflex (guy in this thread said it fit decently) but how do i remove the foam stuff from behind the front panel? I did a quick look and didnt see any tabs to remove the plastic holding it in, did you just tear it out lol?

Also i can confirm with what imthefreeman said, the s340 front filter from demciflex fits *perfect* in this case, it slots directly between two rivets like it was made for it with full coverage for all 3 fans.


----------



## Reaper28

I've got two "quick" questions.. I just got the Meshify C it looks great and holy hell it is a lot smaller in person than pics.

Question 1, Can you remove the entire HDD cage? I unscrewed it but there isn't a gap big enough to slide it out? lol
Question 2, How do you remove the PSU shroud or at least the little door closest to the front?

No I don't read instructions


----------



## Scotty99

Not sure on first one, left mine in for time being. As for the little door there are two screws located behind the front panel that you have to remove to get to.

And yes this thing is small in person, i love it lol.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Not sure on first one, left mine in for time being. As for the little door there are two screws located behind the front panel that you have to remove to get to.
> 
> And yes this thing is small in person, i love it lol.


Thanks didn't notice the small screws when I was installing the case fans. Answered my other question to, Once you remove the little door the HDD cage slides up and out


----------



## jpm888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> I just got this thing today and its tiny, i love it!
> 
> One question about the meshify tho, i already ordered the s340 front dust filter from demciflex (guy in this thread said it fit decently) but how do i remove the foam stuff from behind the front panel? I did a quick look and didnt see any tabs to remove the plastic holding it in, did you just tear it out lol?
> 
> Also i can confirm with what imthefreeman said, the s340 front filter from demciflex fits *perfect* in this case, it slots directly between two rivets like it was made for it with full coverage for all 3 fans.


Does your 240 rad fit with the trident z?


----------



## Reaper28

Quick image showing how the build is going so far. At least I don't have to worry about GPU's overheating when the fans are MM's away from them ha


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpm888*
> 
> Does your 240 rad fit with the trident z?


Hasn't shown up yet, using stock cooler from a pentium lol.

99% sure it'll fit tho.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Quick image showing how the build is going so far. At least I don't have to worry about GPU's overheating when the fans are MM's away from them ha


Is that a 1080ti strix? How are your temps, mine seem a bit higher than i expected 70c max reported after a gaming session on my 165hz gsync monitor. That might go down a bit once i add the 2 extra intake fans tho.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Is that a 1080ti strix? How are your temps, mine seem a bit higher than i expected 70c max reported after a gaming session on my 165hz gsync monitor. That might go down a bit once i add the 2 extra intake fans tho.


480 8GB Strix actually.. gonna be kind of a recording / mining test PC. Depending on how temps are with one card they may end up being 3 in the case at some point







.

I'll post a pic after with the 3 GPU's in the case to see how it looks

***EDIT

Here's a shot of the system running in the dark, need another white led fan to make it stand out more in the rear and none of the led's have been set but I think it looks pretty decent for its size


And for anybody who wants a little laugh, this is 3 GPU's and a capture card installed at once


----------



## museumman

Always happy after doing a build in a Fractal Designs case.


----------



## Gdourado

Anyone here modded a meshify C to use the case on it's side?
It seems to have the perfect measurements to do so.
Like a Haf XB bit without the wasted space of the bottom chamber if one only uses m2 drives.
Good airflow, top tempered glass window, no gpu sag, no issues using large air cooler hanging on the board...
The design also seems good to do so, with the front mesh looking good lying down.

Cheers


----------



## dwolvin

What would you have to do other than moving the feet? Cool idea inmy mind- but I haven't seen a meshify in person yet.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwolvin*
> 
> What would you have to do other than moving the feet? Cool idea inmy mind- but I haven't seen a meshify in person yet.


Haven't tipped my case over enough yet to look but I'm going to assume they're screwed in


----------



## Gdourado

The haf xb is 440mm wide, 420 deep and 330 height.
But what I don't like is that the whole bottom houses only the psu.
If you use Pcie ssds, the bottom chamber is pretty pointless...









If the meshify is tipped, it becomes a case with 440mm wide, 395 deep and 210 height.

Pretty awesome size for a case.
And the glass panel would work really well as a top full sized window.

The thing is the feet would have to be placed on the side panel and then see how the "side" would look.
But seems like a nice project.


----------



## SputnikLunch

My Fractal Design Node 605 Hackintosh. I managed to McGuyver a liquid cooler by putting the rad on the inside and the fan on the outside. Not pretty but it does the trick.

Specs: Intel Core i5 3.5 GHz 6600k
Gigabyte Z170X-UD5 TH
EVGA GTX 970 Superclocked ACX
Ballistix Sport LT (8GBx2) DDR4
Corsair RM650x
Corsair H60
Nocturna Fans + Stock Fans
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (Mac Boot drive)
2x Samsung 850 Evo m.2 256GB in RAID 0
2X WD Black 3TB
OSXWIFI.com APPLE BROADCOM BCM94360CD - 802.11 A/B/G/N/AC + BLUETOOTH 4.0


----------



## Renq86

It says meshify c supports psu up to 175mm but corsair ax750i is 180mm. Is there any physical obstacle making it impossible to install this psu?


----------



## WexleySnoops

I saw a post mentioning that there aren't any physical limitations (aside from the hard drive cage) preventing longer PSUs, just that there isn't "anti-vibration" material after the 175mm they quote.


----------



## JackCY

You can install 300mm+ PSUs into most cases as long as you don't use anything else on the bottom and cut out an intake if the PSU intake gets blocked. Like on R4.


----------



## d3v0

Man am I glad I found this thread. Doing a full rework of my current Rig's cooling situation. Upgrading to H115i and wondering if I can only do push pull in the front of the tower?

Also, With the HDD Bay where its at, since my Supernova G3 750W PSU's sata power cables are not flat, I cant even get the door on the side of my case currently. Considering a full rework. What do you fellas think is optimal, for a PC that sits under a desk on carpet?


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Man am I glad I found this thread. Doing a full rework of my current Rig's cooling situation. Upgrading to H115i and wondering if I can only do push pull in the front of the tower?
> 
> Also, With the HDD Bay where its at, since my Supernova G3 750W PSU's sata power cables are not flat, I cant even get the door on the side of my case currently. Considering a full rework. What do you fellas think is optimal, for a PC that sits under a desk on carpet?


wrt the H115i, you can only do push-pull when its mounted in the front.

Are you using the 5.25'' bays? If you aren't, then take them out, and place the short HDD cage in the place of the 5.25'' bays. There should be just enough room to get both to fit.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

What the need to make is a Meshify C but large enough to fit an EATX MOBO like Rampage and Maximus Extreme. Streth it long enough for 3x120 fans on top. Add 20mm in height over Mobo for rad clearance and keep the rest the same.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> wrt the H115i, you can only do push-pull when its mounted in the front.
> 
> Are you using the 5.25'' bays? If you aren't, then take them out, and place the short HDD cage in the place of the 5.25'' bays. There should be just enough room to get both to fit.


With some cable management I was able to accomplish this. However, my HDD cage is unfortunately too large to squish up against my modular PSU, so it has to sit in the front still (aka, cant move it back to mid/bottom). Not sure where I am going to be putting this H115i.

Anyone with an H115i care to show a pic of how youve got it mounted? Thanks~!


----------



## aerial

Anyone tested what is the difference in performance, between putting 25mm thick fans right behind define case front panel, vs putting them inside the case?
Both C mini and atx are relatively short cases, so there are issues with gpu clearance, if you want put radiator in the front + fans. Putting fans outside, behind front panel solves this issue, but looking at dimensions seems like fans will be almost blocked by the panel.


----------



## sn0wblind

Just joined the fractal design world with the Node 804. Had to deal with their support immediately due to some of the front panel HD led wires snapping off, and they were very quick to ship me new pieces with no questions asked. impressed with the support, even though it's a cheap item.

Did a little paint job on it


----------



## barbz127

Long shot but does anyone have an define s or c with a noctua dh15 and a cooler master vertical GPU mount? If so could you please tell me how much clearance there is between the noctua and the top of the GPU.
Thank you


----------



## NewType88

I went from a nano s, which I loved and still do, to a define mini C TG. Main reason is that I wanted to add a raijintek Morpheus 2 cooler to my GPU - ordered today. Otherwise I would of kept the nano s and waited for a TG version or moved over to a NZXT H200i.


----------



## Kainhander

Here's my newish build in a Define Meshify C TG, I call it the Onyx Watch.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Kainhander/saved/7VqLkL

I banned RGB and went with UV to give it an ethereal radiation glow.
I also did a review of this case vs my old one (and a Le Grande Macho RT vs stock Wraith Spire) over on the LTT forums if anybody's interested in temps or noise levels.
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/848734-silent-but-deadly-computing-fractal-design-meshify-and-le-grande-macho-rt-review/


----------



## Reaper28

I wish the interior Fractal logo actually lit up white I think that would be a nice touch with the dark window. For the guy asking for an E-ATX version I actually asked Fractal for a mATX version of the Meshify not knowing how small it was at first lol


----------



## Kainhander

I had to carefully infill that logo with Neon Blue UV Acrylic paint. It took a few tries...


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kainhander*
> 
> I had to carefully infill that logo with Neon Blue UV Acrylic paint. It took a few tries...


It's a nice touch it suits the case pretty well. I wanted to do the same to my Phanteks case but didn't feel like popping rivets or cutting in the back of the emblem


----------



## Reaper28

@NewType88 , Lol didn't notice same exact CPU/fan combo as my rig with a black/white theme in the Nano S anyways


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpm888*
> 
> Does your 240 rad fit with the trident z?


Yup










Sorry for crappy camera, looks so much better in person. Glad i went with all asus aura compatible parts.


----------



## Sunsoar

I also had my Deepcool 240EX RGB on top in the Meshify C and the Vega 64 120mm rad/fan on the rear in this case just fine with the G.Skill Trident RGBs.

My meshify C came with a broken fan and missing standoffs though and the front panel has some leverage damage like someone took a flat head to pop it off. And after putting everything together and getting power shut offs I had to take it all apart and ship the mobo off.

Back on topic, this case is actually roomier than it looks and cable management is awesome. Pretty solid case for about 60-80 bucks. Hope mine wasn't a used one sold as new though


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> @NewType88 , Lol didn't notice same exact CPU/fan combo as my rig with a black/white theme in the Nano S anyways


Yeah still got the 6700k. What case are you in ?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Yeah still got the 6700k. What case are you in ?


Test rig I just built it in a Meshify C running a Xeon. Might do a quick build-log but not sure.. not much to post


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kainhander*
> 
> Here's my newish build in a Define Meshify C TG, I call it the Onyx Watch.
> 
> https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Kainhander/saved/7VqLkL
> 
> I banned RGB and went with UV to give it an ethereal radiation glow.
> I also did a review of this case vs my old one (and a Le Grande Macho RT vs stock Wraith Spire) over on the LTT forums if anybody's interested in temps or noise levels.
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/848734-silent-but-deadly-computing-fractal-design-meshify-and-le-grande-macho-rt-review/


Really cool build, How was mounting that Le GRAND macho rt ? What about UV on the vibration pads ? Or to much ?


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Test rig I just built it in a Meshify C running a Xeon. Might do a quick build-log but not sure.. not much to post


What are you testing ? Take some shots further away, show that TG baby ! Lol


----------



## Mech0z

Anyone know if its possible to mount either a http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a15-pwm or http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a14-pwm in the back of a Define C with minimal modding?


----------



## zenn84

I was wondering and you guys might know; the Meshify C, any chance of an mATX version coming out in the near future?


----------



## barbz127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mech0z*
> 
> Anyone know if its possible to mount either a http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a15-pwm or http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a14-pwm in the back of a Define C with minimal modding?


Not from what I can see, the space just isn't wide enough.

Your only option that I can see would be a fan adaptor and open up the back of the case.


----------



## Renq86

I recieved my meshify c yesterday and damn its beautiful and clean looking case. Added 3xll120mm corsair fans to the front. Only problem was cable management as my tx850 v2 is non modular. No im thinking of buying hx850i but its 5mm out of the recommended length limit.


----------



## WexleySnoops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renq86*
> 
> I recieved my meshify c yesterday and damn its beautiful and clean looking case. Added 3xll120mm corsair fans to the front. Only problem was cable management as my tx850 v2 is non modular. No im thinking of buying hx850i but its 5mm out of the recommended length limit.


I wouldn't worry about it. Lots of people here reported 180mm PSUs to be just fine.


----------



## Scotty99

If you plan on keeping the HDD cage id stick to a 160 or even 150 like evga g3 series.


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenn84*
> 
> I was wondering and you guys might know; the Meshify C, any chance of an mATX version coming out in the near future?


I'd be bummed if they did because I just got the mini c ?. Hope they do though and a itx version.


----------



## Renq86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> If you plan on keeping the HDD cage id stick to a 160 or even 150 like evga g3 series.


I removed the hdd cage for now because i had nowhere to place the extra psu cables. EVGA G3 sounds good but i think hx850i is more silent, 21 vs 34 dBA at full load according to their website. G3 is 3cm shorter, thats a good thing but i like the silent mode and design of Corsair HX850i way more.


----------



## Scotty99

Depends on how many watts you go with









With my 750 g3 i dont think the fan has turned on yet with a 8700k and 1080ti.


----------



## Renq86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Depends on how many watts you go with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my 750 g3 i dont think the fan has turned on yet with a 8700k and 1080ti.


I've read reviews saying that G3 has very agressive fan profile and it gets noisy. My current system is 4690k + gtx 970


----------



## WexleySnoops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renq86*
> 
> I've read reviews saying that G3 has very agressive fan profile and it gets noisy. My current system is 4690k + gtx 970


Everyone's interpretation of "noisy" will be different









Some have mentioned that yes, when it goes from 0 to ON you notice it, so you can always just leave ECO mode off and have the fan spin at low speed constantly.


----------



## barbz127

Would anyone care to share their photos of modded front panels for a define s or c?
Looking for inspiration
Thankyou


----------



## Dartulius

I've searched around a lot and can't seem to find a concrete answer.

Can the Meshify C fit a 240mm radiator up top and a 360mm up front simultaneously? I understand that this would be a tight fit and require low profile ram, but that's fine.

Specifically, I'd like to put a 40mm thick radiator (EK PE series) up top and in the front, if possible. Thanks!


----------



## jpm888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dartulius*
> 
> I've searched around a lot and can't seem to find a concrete answer.
> 
> Can the Meshify C fit a 240mm radiator up top and a 360mm up front simultaneously? I understand that this would be a tight fit and require low profile ram, but that's fine.
> 
> Specifically, I'd like to put a 40mm thick radiator (EK PE series) up top and in the front, if possible. Thanks!


This pcpartpicker build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Whjypg fits both a 360 and 240 but both are slim rads. However, the 360 front is already a tight fit but the 240 can be thicker with low ram.


----------



## Kainhander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mech0z*
> 
> Anyone know if its possible to mount either a http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a15-pwm or http://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a14-pwm in the back of a Define C with minimal modding?


Yeah, it's not quite wide enough for a 140mm fan. If I measure on the exterior from the edge of IO shield to the edge of the TG it's only 130mm, so an offset fan adapter _might_ work... In mine it wouldn't because my heatsink's so damn big though









I removed my rear fan and I haven't noticed any major increase in temps, but I am running two NF-A14 PWM's in the front.


----------



## BigBlue

Just wanted to share a 3D design I made to raise the Define R5 off the ground a bit more than the stock feet. These are helpful if you place your case directly on carpet.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2703548


----------



## Kainhander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Really cool build, How was mounting that Le GRAND macho rt ?


The Le GRAND Macho RT (I never get tired of that name) was pretty easy to mount. I did it after the motherboard was in the case, since it's so huge.
I'd recommend installing only the front/back plates first, then getting everything besides the GPU in (mount MB, case fan plugs, memory, EPS 12v plugs) because the heatsink will cover everything up. Install the heatsink / fan, then install GPU last.

The package comes with decent anti-slip gloves and a nice long magnetic tip screwdriver for installation too:





Not joking on the heatsink covering everything up, look at these pictures:






At least it makes the cable managment for the rear/cpu fan easy to hide! The only gripe I had was that the anti-vibration pads that you apply to the heatsink tend to slide when clipping the fan on. I got around this by using needlenose pliers to carefully slip the clips on after the fan was aligned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> What about UV on the vibration pads ? Or to much ?


I thought about doing some kind of paint on the Noctuas, but decided against it due to the fact it's smooth plastic and it would probably hurt the accoustics. The slim infill on the grainy metal was bad enough, the paint is cheap so it didn't want to trim on the edges nicely, and the grainy texture hurt while doing a "silkscreen" type application with a squeegie.

I'm trying to order/import some Thermalright TY-147ASQ fans for the front to match the cooler's fan. The white blades show up nicely in the UV, and they're supposedly as quiet as the Noctuas.


----------



## Mech0z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kainhander*
> 
> Yeah, it's not quite wide enough for a 140mm fan. If I measure on the exterior from the edge of IO shield to the edge of the TG it's only 130mm, so an offset fan adapter _might_ work... In mine it wouldn't because my heatsink's so damn big though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed my rear fan and I haven't noticed any major increase in temps, but I am running two NF-A14 PWM's in the front.


Just installed my hardware in my new Define C (Going from Define R5) put the top fan as exhaust fan, not sure if this is correct, the 120mm Fractal fan is kept as exhaust fan as well. Have a Noctua D15 I am going to replace this Mugen cooler with when I upgrade to new hardware


----------



## Kainhander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dartulius*
> 
> I've searched around a lot and can't seem to find a concrete answer.
> 
> Can the Meshify C fit a 240mm radiator up top and a 360mm up front simultaneously? I understand that this would be a tight fit and require low profile ram, but that's fine.
> 
> Specifically, I'd like to put a 40mm thick radiator (EK PE series) up top and in the front, if possible. Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpm888*
> 
> This pcpartpicker build https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Whjypg fits both a 360 and 240 but both are slim rads. However, the 360 front is already a tight fit but the 240 can be thicker with low ram.


I'd be careful, I cannot install a 140mm fan in the top-rear position - my EPS plug sticks out too far:



Just make sure you take things like that or VRM heatsinks into consideration on your motherboard.


----------



## Kainhander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mech0z*
> 
> Just installed my hardware in my new Define C (Going from Define R5) put the top fan as exhaust fan, not sure if this is correct, the 120mm Fractal fan is kept as exhaust fan as well. Have a Noctua D15 I am going to replace this Mugen cooler with when I upgrade to new hardware


Looks nice! I would test to see if removing the rear & top fans have any effect on cooling. I removed mine based on input from @doyll and it runs at the same temp and quieter. With the D15's dual fans you probably won't notice any difference with a rear fan on/off either.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mech0z*
> 
> Just installed my hardware in my new Define C (Going from Define R5) put the top fan as exhaust fan, not sure if this is correct, the 120mm Fractal fan is kept as exhaust fan as well. Have a Noctua D15 I am going to replace this Mugen cooler with when I upgrade to new hardware


What @Kainhander said.









I would unplug the top exhaust fan. It's probably pulling air up the heated exhaust from GPU
Remove the PCIe slot covers for better front to back airflow and I'm pretty sure your temps will be lower with less fan noise.


----------



## Dartulius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kainhander*
> 
> I'd be careful, I cannot install a 140mm fan in the top-rear position - my EPS plug sticks out too far:
> 
> 
> 
> Just make sure you take things like that or VRM heatsinks into consideration on your motherboard.


I'm wanting to do a 240mm radiator up top, as in dual 120mm fans, not a 140mm fan. Thanks though!


----------



## Kainhander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dartulius*
> 
> I'm wanting to do a 240mm radiator up top, as in dual 120mm fans, not a 140mm fan. Thanks though!


Ahh my bad, I misread. You should have plenty of room then, unless you have freakishly tall DIMMs.


----------



## Jod-R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kainhander*
> 
> Yeah, it's not quite wide enough for a 140mm fan. If I measure on the exterior from the edge of IO shield to the edge of the TG it's only 130mm, so an offset fan adapter _might_ work... In mine it wouldn't because my heatsink's so damn big though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I removed my rear fan and I haven't noticed any major increase in temps, but I am running two NF-A14 PWM's in the front.


There was a guy that modded his Define C to accept a nf-a15, see in the link

http://www.overclock.net/t/838683/official-fractal-design-case-club/15530#post_26037696


----------



## d3v0

I was reading the compatibility list for my Define R5 and it looks like I can get a Thermaltake Floe Riing 3.0 (360mm) in the top mount as long as I remove the ODD and middle HDD cages, yeah?


----------



## alphadecay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> I was reading the compatibility list for my Define R5 and it looks like I can get a Thermaltake Floe Riing 3.0 (360mm) in the top mount as long as I remove the ODD and middle HDD cages, yeah?


Yep, any kind of 360mm radiator will fit in the top. You just need to remove the ODD and the middle HDD cage.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> What are you testing ? Take some shots further away, show that TG baby ! Lol


Sorry for the late reply been busy at work/sleeping for 14hrs. lol. It was meant to be a recording/"streaming" rig and I've got some different hardware I want to play around with like capture cards, CPU's etc. If it doesn't end up working out like I plan on I'll probably use it as some kind of crap system to mess around with different software and don't have to worry about messing up my main rig's registry. I might post a quick build-log but I didn't end up taking many pics as the system is pretty simple


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alphadecay*
> 
> Yep, any kind of 360mm radiator will fit in the top. You just need to remove the ODD and the middle HDD cage.


It also looks like a 280MM rad(H115i, CLC 280) will not fit in the top unless I dont use the back case fan. Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## Mack42

Has there been any rumors about a Define S2 being launched soon? Seems long overdue. The Define S is the only clean noise isolated case with room for 420mm radiator in the top, and I would hope that a S2 revision takes some improvements from the Nano S/Define C in terms of case design. Right now the Define S looks pretty old. And if a S2 finally comes, and comes with a PSU shroud, please let it be removable.


----------



## encrypted11

Almost done.
Gotta work on the ambient lighting and hopefully @fractal-design brings a tempered glass variant of the chassis to market. I'll be moving the build over when that happens.


----------



## Justux204

So yea... Iam thinking what case should I choose, Fractal design define C mini TG (mAtx board...) or fractal design meshify C? PC spec R5 1600 and RX 580. Does define really choks fans? and something in my system has coil whine... but I kind like mesh... I need advice


----------



## Kainhander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justux204*
> 
> So yea... Iam thinking what case should I choose, Fractal design define C mini TG (mAtx board...) or fractal design meshify C? PC spec R5 1600 and RX 580. Does define really choks fans? and something in my system has coil whine... but I kind like mesh... I need advice


If you've got a lot of coil whine then I might go with the Define C given no other input. In my Meshify I hear my GTX 1070's coil whine when I run furmark, and the motherboard's a bit when doing extreme load testing, but not too much besides that. If you've got loud fans though it might not matter either way









1. What case do you have your system in now?
2. What sort of fans do you currently use / are you going to use?
3. What's your CPU cooler?
4. Can you measure your current system noise? (Check out 



)


----------



## Justux204

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kainhander*
> 
> If you've got a lot of coil whine then I might go with the Define C given no other input. In my Meshify I hear my GTX 1070's coil whine when I run furmark, and the motherboard's a bit when doing extreme load testing, but not too much besides that. If you've got loud fans though it might not matter either way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. What case do you have your system in now?
> 2. What sort of fans do you currently use / are you going to use?
> 3. What's your CPU cooler?
> 4. Can you measure your current system noise? (Check out
> 
> 
> 
> )


Case https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811853003 vibrates af...
Fans


http://imgur.com/w39yD

 non branded, they are not that load, main problem they have set speed ~1600rpm cant change that... CPU cooler 212 EVO and i cant measure system sound as right now pc i in RMA...


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justux204*
> 
> Case https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811853003 vibrates af...
> Fans
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/w39yD
> 
> non branded, they are not that load, main problem they have set speed ~1600rpm cant change that... CPU cooler 212 EVO and i cant measure system sound as right now pc i in RMA...


I'd get the Meshify. Honestly with how close the front intake fans are to the CPU/GPU you can't really get much better in terms on airflow. The case is a lot smaller in person btw so looking at pics at like Newegg don't do it justice. The fans are branded actually







Rajintek or something like that..


----------



## Reaper28

Decided to post a quick buildlog of the Meshify
http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1644348
And link to pics for those who don't feel like reading


http://imgur.com/auXNF


----------



## Dimensive

Fractal Design Define R6 review here: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/fractal-design-define-r6-review,1.html


----------



## Bill Owen

In-depth overview of the Fractal Design R6


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bill Owen*
> 
> In-depth overview of the Fractal Design R6


Looks like that's my next case sorted, looks great!.


----------



## Velathawen

Review from HWC






So tempted to upgrade.


----------



## Dimensive




----------



## ddarko

Looks interesting. I'd be interested to know if EATX mobos can be fit into the R6 like the R4 even if it's only officially spec'ed to support up to ATX size whoops just saw on the spec page that the R6 is EATX compatible up to 285mm wide. I see in some of the video that there is a piece rising up between the grommets and the drive area (visible at timestamp 4:51 in the Game Nexus video above). Is that going to block an even wider EATX mobo? For example, the Asus Rampage VI Extreme is 305mm wide!


----------



## jpm888

You can put hard drives in the back like a Define S


----------



## Snaporz

When will the R6 actually appear online at retailers?


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snaporz*
> 
> When will the R6 actually appear online at retailers?


https://www.scan.co.uk/products/fractal-design-define-r6-tempered-glass-black-mid-tower-computer-chassis-e-atx-atx-matx-mitx-3x-140m

It was meant to be in stock today so i'm guessing soon.


----------



## Scotty99

Still all those HDD bays, really fractal?


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Review from HWC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So tempted to upgrade.


They did a nice review...and at ~7 minute mark shows the modular design for moving the side panel to rear (ditching hard drive bays) and creating a great open space for dual front/top rads. Definitely will be using this case for my next build.


----------



## jpm888

Its a Define R5 that can convert to a Define S (Open interior, hard drives in back panel) with tempered glass. Its also reasonably priced.

The NZXT H700i has serious competition.


----------



## Scotty99

Meh to me i dont see the point in it, define c/meshify are superior designs. Only person i see as a potential buyer is someone with a ton of HDD's, like a media server or something.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Meh to me i dont see the point in it, define c/meshify are superior designs. Only person i see as a potential buyer is someone with a ton of HDD's, like a media server or something.


I built wifes computer in define C, and agree it is the perfect size for air/aio, R5/R6 size would have been unnecessary. However, no way Im cramming my custom water 2x280 rads into small space of C. R5/R6 targets those with larger case needs, custom cooling (where hard drive bays are just more internal packaging to be removed), or like you said those building servers needing hard drive bays. Wouldnt make sense for FD to make R5/R6 compete with Define C for same use.


----------



## Scotty99

Well sure custom watercooling that space is nice, but lets not kid ourselves less than 1% of people building PC's do that lol. I just think its a dated design, im actually surprised fractal included all that extra space for HDD's.

I understand they cant copy the meshify c design i was just expecting them to innovate a bit more with their flagship case, hopefully that is the R8


----------



## jpm888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Well sure custom watercooling that space is nice, but lets not kid ourselves less than 1% of people building PC's do that lol. I just think its a dated design, im actually surprised fractal included all that extra space for HDD's.
> 
> I understand they cant copy the meshify c design i was just expecting them to innovate a bit more with their flagship case, hopefully that is the R8


I bet 90% of these will have an Asetek cooler like an h100i/h115i/x62/x52 etc.


----------



## plant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plant*
> 
> @Fractal Design you probably don't want to discuss future products but I really hope to see an "S" series refresh. A define S with TG, PSU shroud, and top fan filter. And a define nano S with those things in addition to a meshify front panel that will accomodate fans on the outside of the frame to leave more room for a radiator on the inside.
> 
> The "C" series and meshify are really nice, just not enough room for water cooling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fractal Design*
> 
> I may not be at liberty to say much about future products, but I can most certainly listen. That's pretty much the first place we start when developing anything new. That said, these are all solid suggestions and you're certainly not alone in anticipation for new additions to these series.


You guys totally killed it with the R6. Everything I asked for and a lot more! Great job. I will be moving my Define S build into the R6 and maybe going back to hard tubes. That will be 3 Fractal cases I have purchased in the last year. Keep up the good work and thanks for listening to feedback!


----------



## bagoshi

Anyone have issue with the usb3 plug on the maximus ix/x formula/code boards and the define c? The plug is 90 degrees and almost between the 2 grommets.


----------



## Scotty99

Ya that was the one problem i had with the case, i actually had to install usb3 same time as board or i couldnt line it up properly lol.


----------



## bagoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya that was the one problem i had with the case, i actually had to install usb3 same time as board or i couldnt line it up properly lol.


Thanks! At least I know it will fit. Now if only Amazon would sell it.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bagoshi*
> 
> Thanks! At least I know it will fit. Now if only Amazon would sell it.


Keep in mind i have the strix-f, not sure if its in same place as boards you mentioned.


----------



## Gunfire

Forgive the crappy pic, but here's my Define Mini C. Moved everything over to the NVMe Drive to simplify it and all other drives are going to the NAS.


----------



## DyndaS

I would rly like to see how 420mm rad fits at the top of Define R6.


----------



## TheShadow

They put a 360 up top and you can see who much more space there is. If they used a slimmer 360 up front I think it would fit a 420 no problem





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> I would rly like to see how 420mm rad fits at the top of Define R6.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> I would rly like to see how 420mm rad fits at the top of Define R6.


Same. Considering I just watched even 360 won't fit because of some panel clearance. I don't care for WC but it's good to know for those who like WC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Still all those HDD bays, really fractal?


It's an R series, of course it will have drive mounts, sure there are other ways than having bays but they often offer the most slots to mount.
If you want no/less drives case, FD has plenty of other options. R is the one that has options for most configurations where as other series cases are more specialized.

Overall the R6 is pricey and things being sold separately for it feels like a spin on DLCs. For the price hmm why bother with 2 front panels and not include the newest USB options only instead.
Proper fan controller finally, not just a voltage switch. Maybe R5 already had, don't remember, R4 not.

Availability... a big shop lists it but no date of availability, probably waiting for distributors to move stock around. I expect Q1 2018.

And EATX, finally, just like R4 did. The R5 etc. mishap is gone.


----------



## TheShadow

Which video are you talking about that a 360 wouldn't clear? I've seen multiples that had no issues, including the one I linked above.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Same. Considering I just watched even 360 won't fit because of some panel clearance. I don't care for WC but it's good to know for those who like WC.
> It's an R series, of course it will have drive mounts, sure there are other ways than having bays but they often offer the most slots to mount.
> If you want no/less drives case, FD has plenty of other options. R is the one that has options for most configurations where as other series cases are more specialized.
> 
> Overall the R6 is pricey and things being sold separately for it feels like a spin on DLCs. For the price hmm why bother with 2 front panels and not include the newest USB options only instead.
> Proper fan controller finally, not just a voltage switch. Maybe R5 already had, don't remember, R4 not.
> 
> Availability... a big shop lists it but no date of availability, probably waiting for distributors to move stock around. I expect Q1 2018.
> 
> And EATX, finally, just like R4 did. The R5 etc. mishap is gone.


----------



## JackCY

I think dimitri's or what's the name. Probably reviewers test odd combinations, forgot to remove some panel or wanted to mount toward other side of case, etc. Personally, it can all be solved with a dremel.









The white with black front I don't get. Maybe it's easier to repaint a black front than white front? Coz that's what I would aim for with a white case, paint the front door a color you want.


----------



## 100cotton

On the reviews I've seen of the R6, none have shown exactly how two 3.25" drives mount on the move-able panel (not on the sleds). This would be exactly what I'm looking for since I want more rad space, but need space to put my 2x2TB raid HDD's. So how exactly do they mount?


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheShadow*
> 
> They put a 360 up top and you can see who much more space there is. If they used a slimmer 360 up front I think it would fit a 420 no problem


Nah... I need to see 420 fat radiator like ~60mm and how it look like.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Nah... I need to see 420 fat radiator like ~60mm and how it look like.


I think it would impact on the memory or motherboard heatsinks, we shall see.


----------



## stephenn82

oh snap! I was considering jumping from my Air 740 to the R6...very nice layout/design! I can show off that pump/res in the front of the case sans HDD cage.









Courtesy of Bill Owen





i would rock a pair of tempered glass windows, front and back.


----------



## TheShadow

Watch the video Fractal put on youtube. I started it 45 seconds but after a few it will move the part back and the two 3.5" drives go vertical. Is that what you wanted to see? I know seeing it in someone's review would be better but at least the CG video shows you how it does mount.





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *100cotton*
> 
> On the reviews I've seen of the R6, none have shown exactly how two 3.25" drives mount on the move-able panel (not on the sleds). This would be exactly what I'm looking for since I want more rad space, but need space to put my 2x2TB raid HDD's. So how exactly do they mount?


----------



## TheShadow

Also the video here shows it





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *100cotton*
> 
> On the reviews I've seen of the R6, none have shown exactly how two 3.25" drives mount on the move-able panel (not on the sleds). This would be exactly what I'm looking for since I want more rad space, but need space to put my 2x2TB raid HDD's. So how exactly do they mount?


----------



## TheShadow

Okay I just watched it and I see what you are saying. It's when you keep the hard drive tray the way it is to have more than 2 3.5" that doesn't allow for the full 360 rad. I'm not sure who does full water cooling loops that need more than 2 3.5" drives with 2 2.5" SSD mounts. Not counting anyone that uses M.2 SSD.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> I think dimitri's or what's the name. Probably reviewers test odd combinations, forgot to remove some panel or wanted to mount toward other side of case, etc. Personally, it can all be solved with a dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The white with black front I don't get. Maybe it's easier to repaint a black front than white front? Coz that's what I would aim for with a white case, paint the front door a color you want.


----------



## NewType88

Added a raijintek Morpheus 2......mmmmh beefy ;p


----------



## stephenn82

That is YUUUUUUUGGEEEE!!!


----------



## estrada2501

build complete!My first wc build with define C .i managed to fit 240 and 360 g2 slim rad with fans outside of case


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Added a raijintek Morpheus 2......mmmmh beefy ;p


Fill up your rig details I want to know what monitor is that


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Added a raijintek Morpheus 2......mmmmh beefy ;p


That is NICE









I see you used a Chromax kit on your NH-D15... I was planning on buying another one (gave mine to my brother) and do a totally black build...

You see? Now you've crammed everything in it, yiur build probably will qualify in the mitx/matx compacy build ?


----------



## lorcav123

Is there a way to expand the range of Define R5 doors? Default they can only open about 90 degrees. I am asking this because my clumsy friend today almost broke my door on R5, he wasn`t careful and he softly hit door when door was open on max range (90 degrees). Luckly without any damage. It would be great if they could open to some ~180 degrees....


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Fill up your rig details I want to know what monitor is that


Yes, I do need to do that, but in the mean time its a Acer H236HLbid. I'm hoping asus and acer will release their 4k 144hz ips monitors in 2018 !


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HZCH*
> 
> That is NICE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see you used a Chromax kit on your NH-D15... I was planning on buying another one (gave mine to my brother) and do a totally black build...
> 
> You see? Now you've crammed everything in it, yiur build probably will qualify in the mitx/matx compacy build ?


thanks I blame you and this site for making me buy more pc parts ;p, Yeah I have a black one too, I posted it in the noctua D15 club. I actually thought about going all black too, but I'll keep it this way for a while. I'd love to throw a little bit of gold accent in there some how .

Looking forward to seeing yours !


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Yes, I do need to do that, but in the mean time its a Acer H236HLbid. I'm hoping asus and acer will release their 4k 144hz ips monitors in 2018 !


I thought they both had 165 and 200hz panels in the works?


----------



## Scotty99

Few pics showing what you can do with asus aura, i have a galaxy s8 but no idea how to take pictures sorry for quality lol.

Blue light is my naga reflecting off the glass, dam you razr for no aura support!


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Yes, I do need to do that, but in the mean time its a Acer H236HLbid. I'm hoping asus and acer will release their 4k 144hz ips monitors in 2018 !


Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Few pics showing what you can do with asus aura, i have a galaxy s8 but no idea how to take pictures sorry for quality lol.
> 
> Blue light is my naga reflecting off the glass, dam you razr for no aura support!


You need to take pictures of all 3 colors at once, not each picture for each color channel separately.


----------



## Scotty99

There is no hardware on the market that has addressable lighting and is aura sync ready. Gskill ram is the only thing really, everything else requires seperate software which i wanted to avoid with in this build


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Added a raijintek Morpheus 2......mmmmh beefy ;p


Nice to see you got Noctua Chromax to fit in there! I myself have a D15S and the white chromax covers ready to install.

I don't have the rest of the hardware quite yet though. How much clearance is there between the top of the covers and the window? A rough estimate would be awesome, since I'm modding up the tempered glass side panel a bit at the moment.

edit: also subbed!

edit 2: I think I also have the same sleeved cables as you LOL


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> Nice to see you got Noctua Chromax to fit in there! I myself have a D15S and the white chromax covers ready to install.
> 
> I don't have the rest of the hardware quite yet though. How much clearance is there between the top of the covers and the window? A rough estimate would be awesome, since I'm modding up the tempered glass side panel a bit at the moment.
> 
> edit: also subbed!
> 
> edit 2: I think I also have the same sleeved cables as you LOL


Well assuming you just use the middle fan the cooler is 160mm tall and my case has clearance for up to 172 mm. My front fan is a little higher to sit on the ram, so I brought the middle fan up a bit to match the height. So maybe its at least 165mm now ? I really don't know lol. What case are you getting ?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I have the same one, the Define Mini C TG.


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> I have the same one, the Define Mini C TG.


Nice, its a great case, I really like it. How are you "modding" the glass panel ?


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> Nice, its a great case, I really like it. How are you "modding" the glass panel ?


Here's a sneak peek. About 85% done I'd say.


----------



## Reaper28

I wanted to get the U12P from Noctua as I like the look of a bigger cooler but I worried about ram clearance and the U12S fits perfect in this case actually. If I end up putting my 6-8 core in that rig and OC it 24/7 the U12P probably would have been a nice choice. The NH-D14/15 is a little too big for me personally and something triggers me about the 140 fans hanging over the edges of the cooler lol


----------



## fitzy-775

Can the psu shroud be removed from the new R6 case?


----------



## zakijesk

hi, I would like to ask about cleaning the front foam filter of the meshify c

is it easy to clean with an air blower and a brush ?

or do you have to wash it with water and if you did would that clean it good enough ?

also is there any discoloration in the foam visible to you ?


----------



## Lare111

My Define Mini C and 1080p60 gaming machine with some leds. Runs cool and it's also very quiet.


----------



## Reaper28

You should peel the sticker off the CPU cooler fan ^


----------



## Intrepidation

Joining the Fractal club now.









Girlfiend's PC is pretty modern inside, but outside it was housed in an ancient Raidmax Smilodon. Core i5 4590, 16 Gb RAM, and GTX 1050 Ti are more than enough for the games she plays, but the poor layout, lack of dust filters, and big size were never ideal.

That's all changed with the Meshify C. Saw the review for it by HardwareCanucks and really liked it. The front has actual airflow in mind unlike 90% of the cases that came out this year, and that same front end makes it just visually interesting enough to be more than a nondescript box. Plus that TG panel. It's really well made and it's compact. Instead of being on the floor it can now live on the new end table next to the new desk. Just need to fix the monitor heights as this desk isn't as tall as the old one was. Back to the case: Really like the way it looks, love the build quality and the airflow. I kind of want to upgrade the CPU cooler but there's honestly no need...but I still might.









Here's the build. Same product, but new packaging (plus 4 LED ring fans).


----------



## HZCH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intrepidation*
> 
> Joining the Fractal club now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Girlfiend's PC is pretty modern inside, but outside it was housed in an ancient Raidmax Smilodon. Core i5 4590, 16 Gb RAM, and GTX 1050 Ti are more than enough for the games she plays, but the poor layout, lack of dust filters, and big size were never ideal.
> 
> That's all changed with the Meshify C. Saw the review for it by HardwareCanucks and really liked it. The front has actual airflow in mind unlike 90% of the cases that came out this year, and that same front end makes it just visually interesting enough to be more than a nondescript box. Plus that TG panel. It's really well made and it's compact. Instead of being on the floor it can now live on the new end table next to the new desk. Just need to fix the monitor heights as this desk isn't as tall as the old one was. Back to the case: Really like the way it looks, love the build quality and the airflow. I kind of want to upgrade the CPU cooler but there's honestly no need...but I still might.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the build. Same product, but new packaging (plus 4 LED ring fans).


It's becoming neat ?

But I have some suggestions...
1) Remove the top fans: they mess your arflow (thus potentially higher temps) and your GF rig will become quieter
2) If you upgrade the cooler, it will become even quieter depending on the one you choose... and it look like the true powerhouse your GF deserves ?

Nice setup!


----------



## Intrepidation

Thanks! I can always just unplug the fans for now if that's the case. As for the cooler. I'm torn. The stock cooler works fine and isn't loud. I do have a Cooler Master 120mm AIO that works well, I just removed swapped it for an H100i V2 in my rig. However, if I did push/pull it would take up a lot of real estate at the back panel and look kind of cluttered. I suppose I could just do push, but then would that be any better than the stock cooler? Finally, there's the Core Frozr L, which would match the motherboard.


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> Here's a sneak peek. About 85% done I'd say.


I dunno what's going on, but I'm interested to see how the finished product looks. Can you use any image ?


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewType88*
> 
> I dunno what's going on, but I'm interested to see how the finished product looks. Can you use any image ?


It's a monitor panel stuck on the side panel. It can play anything you want. You just ruin one monitor in the process and put it's panel with no backside on the case side panel.


----------



## NewType88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intrepidation*
> 
> Thanks! I can always just unplug the fans for now if that's the case. As for the cooler. I'm torn. The stock cooler works fine and isn't loud. I do have a Cooler Master 120mm AIO that works well, I just removed swapped it for an H100i V2 in my rig. However, if I did push/pull it would take up a lot of real estate at the back panel and look kind of cluttered. I suppose I could just do push, but then would that be any better than the stock cooler? Finally, there's the Core Frozr L, which would match the motherboard.


Any aftermarket cooler should be better than the stock one. If it were me, I would put in a thermalright true spirit direct, I think that would look pretty good.


----------



## GeneO

Just updated the cooling on my R4. I think the red anti-vibration pads are a bit too much. I think I will replace them with black.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> It's a monitor panel stuck on the side panel. It can play anything you want. You just ruin one monitor in the process and put it's panel with no backside on the case side panel.


Ding ding ding.

It's an old dell 15" vga monitor I got off Craigslist for $5. Getting it hooked up directly to the atx power supply was a bit of a pain but I got it working.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Maybe this'll show the transparent lcd display a bit better.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Nice work and display : )


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Some Tech Nub*
> 
> Ding ding ding.
> 
> It's an old dell 15" vga monitor I got off Craigslist for $5. Getting it hooked up directly to the atx power supply was a bit of a pain but I got it working.


How can you see through the panel into the case with that on side panel? What black magic is this!?!?! Very interesting!

Perhaps you must have 4 arms like this guy in the video.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephenn82*
> 
> How can you see through the panel into the case with that on side panel? What black magic is this!?!?! Very interesting!
> 
> Perhaps you must have 4 arms like this guy in the video.


Haha. It's a very doable mod for people who haven't done case mods before like me. Getting it to all fit into a compact micro atx case like the Mini C has been quite the challenge though.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Nice job, that should be the way all glass side panels operate.


----------



## TwirlyWhirly555

Just moved my PC over to a Fractal Mini C , Really like the space and options .

i7 - 5820K @ 4.2Ghz
ASRock x99 ITX/Ac
8GB 2400Mhz DDR4 ( Team group 4GB DDR4 Sticks )
Radeon Pro Duo GPU
OS Windows 10
OS Drive - 120GB Samsung NVM PCIe
Storage Drive 1 2x 1TB WD Black 2.5" 7200RPM Drives Raid 0 ( 1.8TB Storage , Read test was 270MB/s , Write 250MB/s )
Storage Drive 2 2x 1TB WD Black 2.5" 7200RPM Drives Raid 0 ( 1.8TB Storage , Read test was 270MB/s , Write 250MB/s )


----------



## JackCY

Yeah it's my favorite see through side panel option, don't really care for windowed cases otherwise. How does it work? All LCD monitors to date are made from several layers, you remove the white backing that reflects light and get a see through display. Of course then you need a lot of light inside your case to be able to see anything displayed by the panel. You can probably keep some of the illumination layers for rigidity if you want.

GeneO: too much work, just put a metal side panel on


----------



## rossctr

Joining the Fractal Club today.... My R6 will arrive today









Just need to find where I can buy the GPU Riser from


----------



## stephenn82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rossctr*
> 
> Joining the Fractal Club today.... My R6 will arrive today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to find where I can buy the GPU Riser from


From them directly
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/where-to-buy


----------



## indyjones

Trying to decide between the gun metal and the blackout R6. Has anybody seen a review which shows what is black and what is gunmetal on the gun metal case please?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## khemist

https://imageshack.com/i/poKmS6nBj

I think i'm going with the Gunmetal as it will match my motherboard and theme better.


----------



## Dreaz

Does anyone have the new Define R6 with a eATX motherboard at 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )
I really like to see a picture with that in it, to see how close it get to the Cable holes


----------



## jpm888

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dreaz*
> 
> Does anyone have the new Define R6 with a eATX motherboard at 12 inch x 10.7 inch ( 30.5 cm x 27.2 cm )
> I really like to see a picture with that in it, to see how close it get to the Cable holes


Pcpartpicker has a video in youtube where they used an eatx z370 motherboard


----------



## zakijesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *indyjones*
> 
> Trying to decide between the gun metal and the blackout R6. Has anybody seen a review which shows what is black and what is gunmetal on the gun metal case please?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk


----------



## khemist

I think the Gunmetal is all Black inside, (ssd trays, hard drive trays, fans and pci slot covers) and just gunmetal on the outside.


----------



## Dreaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpm888*
> 
> Pcpartpicker has a video in youtube where they used an eatx z370 motherboard


Thanks for the reply i can see is covering the half of the cable holes.
Now I'm just hoping the backplate of my motherboard is not interfering with the cable hose.


----------



## Gahstly

Terrible picture, but this is all I have at the moment. If anyone is curious about this fitting, I have a celsius S36 front mounted with an Aorus GTX 1080 TI. I was barely able to squeeze it in there, doesn't effect the fan it has a bit of pressure on.

I thought about mounting the fans in between front panel if that was possible, but didn't want to lose the dust filter.


----------



## Exoticheals

Little Define S love


----------



## zakijesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Exoticheals*
> 
> 
> 
> Little Define S love


looks awesome, but a backplate for that GPU will make it even better


----------



## khemist

Got my r6 today, ill get some better pics when it's daylight again.


I've got two 360 rads in it just now.


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Got my r6 today, ill get some better pics when it's daylight again.
> 
> https://s10.postimg.org/3l6rqgiux/DSC_6356.jpg
> I've got two 360 rads in it just now.


Are you able fit that 2 rads with that cover on?

Are you able show how 420mm rad fits?


----------



## leops1984

I have a question about the R6. Is it possible to still use the optical drive bay with the open internal configuration - the manual says it has to come off, but could I screw it back in after conversion?


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> Got my r6 today, ill get some better pics when it's daylight again.
> 
> 
> I've got two 360 rads in it just now.


I won't lie I'd love to see a "Monsta" rad in the front just for the hell of it


----------



## Punter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> https://imageshack.com/i/poKmS6nBj


Handsome motherboard right there.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Are you able fit that 2 rads with that cover on?
> 
> Are you able show how 420mm rad fits?


I don't have any, sorry.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Punter*
> 
> Handsome motherboard right there.


https://imageshack.com/i/pn6uFmTwj



Here is a better pic.


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Those of you who have received an R6, where did you order from? Only place I have found is Newegg and it's preorder only for the black TG. Looking to order a white TG.


----------



## ANGRY-robert

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheatpaste1999*
> 
> Those of you who have received an R6, where did you order from? Only place I have found is Newegg and it's preorder only for the black TG. Looking to order a white TG.


Outside of US.


----------



## JackCY

In a shop. For once US has to wait for supply, no idea why, my guess is Fractal gave stock priority to Europe first unlike other companies that supply US first. At least you know what it is to live outside US a little, people gotta wait sometimes up to half a year before products even get listed in shops let alone are stock.

You could just order it internationally, just like others often do outside US, pay taxes, pay customs, pay expensive shipping, etc.


----------



## ANGRY-robert

Here is my current rig set inside a Define C.

Working on a new water cooled build with a Define S. But I am thinking about returning it and getting a R6. I have seen the blackout version referred to as having a "soft touch" finish. Sounds like something similar to the finish on my old Bitfenix Shinobi case. I emailed Fractal Design about this but have yet to get a response.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> In a shop. For once US has to wait for supply, no idea why, my guess is Fractal gave stock priority to Europe first unlike other companies that supply US first. At least you know what it is to live outside US a little, people gotta wait sometimes up to half a year before products even get listed in shops let alone are stock.
> 
> You could just order it internationally, just like others often do outside US, pay taxes, pay customs, pay expensive shipping, etc.


please don't take away the only good thing about the US lol


----------



## Vathral

I figure I'd ask this question for any of you Node 804 users. Would be really helpful. Any idea what the distance is between the legs of the case? Trying to see if it will rest okay on a 14inch deep desk but the case is 15.3 inch. I figure it will be okay since I assume the front panel takes up about an inch. Thanks so much!


----------



## wheatpaste1999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> In a shop. For once US has to wait for supply, no idea why, my guess is Fractal gave stock priority to Europe first unlike other companies that supply US first. At least you know what it is to live outside US a little, people gotta wait sometimes up to half a year before products even get listed in shops let alone are stock.
> 
> You could just order it internationally, just like others often do outside US, pay taxes, pay customs, pay expensive shipping, etc.


Got it, thanks for clarifying.

Newegg is stating Jan 15 for the R6 in black with tempered glass so that's not very far away. Just curious if all colors will be available at/around that same time.


----------



## leops1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vathral*
> 
> I figure I'd ask this question for any of you Node 804 users. Would be really helpful. Any idea what the distance is between the legs of the case? Trying to see if it will rest okay on a 14inch deep desk but the case is 15.3 inch. I figure it will be okay since I assume the front panel takes up about an inch. Thanks so much!


I measured it on me, it's about 13.5 inches.


----------



## Vathral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leops1984*
> 
> I measured it on me, it's about 13.5 inches.


Thank you so much. You da MVP.


----------



## HZCH

Hohoho, my last Fractal Design Define C mini! I swapped the CPU and added the Le Grand Macho in it, because why not (even if it's useless)??

Warning, crappy pics ahead!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









The rig configuration:
*Case*: Define C mini indeed
*Case fans*: 3x bequiet SiletWings 3 120mm PWM as intake, 1x as exhaust
*CPU*: Intel Core i7 4770 (non-K, couldn't find one second-hand in Switzerland, they all got bought in, like, two weeks)
*CPU Cooler*: Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT (big, huge...)
*Motherboard*: Gigabyte Z97M (meh, two dead RAM slots becauseof me, but PWM fan management is crap)
*RAM*: G.Skill Trident X ddr3 2400MHz CL10, 16GB
*GPU*: Asus ROG 1080ti Strix OC (hohohohohoho)
*GPU Cooler*: Raijintek Morpheus MK2 Core Edition, with two Fractal GP-something (the case fans)
*SSD*: 1x samsung EVO 850 500gb, 1x samsung EVO 850 1tb

Still have to check the temps, but it IS silent ?


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> I don't have any, sorry.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/3182899/
> 
> https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/922/WSremw.jpg
> 
> Here is a better pic.


Nice looking build but I hate using front intake rad... it's killing flow in the case so hard and heat up a lot everything inside the case.


----------



## khemist

The CPU and GPU are on water though and any components that need airflow are getting some albeit not the coolest so there is no problem.


----------



## Spectrus77

Hello everyone, entering the club, leaving a Corsair 350D and embarking on a Fractal Define Mini C TG, just to register the moment, then I come with better photos. Happy, case is wonderful..


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> The CPU and GPU are on water though and any components that need airflow are getting some albeit not the coolest so there is no problem.


Only reason I have front intake fans is for the looks lol everything is under water


----------



## DyndaS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> The CPU and GPU are on water though and any components that need airflow are getting some albeit not the coolest so there is no problem.


I had multiple different kind of loops and have tested it. Front rad make things inside the case way way hotter especially if you like keep it quiet.

When you use top rad only as exhaust everything inside the case is very very cool, ram bearly warm under long gaming. That is the best way to go.

Things change when you use like front rad as intake or even worse front + top rad. Ram gets pretty damn hot (TridentX 2400 Mhz) and simillar thing with the everything else inside the case. Front rad push hot air inside the case.

Sure...you can kinda use high rpms but I don't think that is reason why you watercool your PC









I like to keep it under 800 rpm for 120mm fans.


----------



## catbuster

Any1 using nano s with sff psu? Are stock cables long enough or extensions are needed. Have silverstone sx600g.


----------



## milkguru

Anyone know if there are any plans for a new TG mini ITX case? Really itching for a TG nano s or a new mITX based on the R6


----------



## dainfamous

I own the corsair sf600 and the stock 24 pin motherboard and cpu 8 pin cables are not long enough for the nano s if you are routing it behind the grommets. I own a asrock z270 itx gaming for reference.


----------



## rawsh

I just built my ITX ryzen build in the define nano s! Love the case:




Ryzen 1800x OC 4ghz @ 1.35v
Founders Edition GTX 1060 6gb OC 2000 MHz Boost 9Gbps
Corsair h100i v2
It's my first build ever (always used thinkpad laptops) and as you can tell my cable management is horrendous.
The case is a lot smaller than it looks in the picture and nice and quiet too.


----------



## catbuster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dainfamous*
> 
> I own the corsair sf600 and the stock 24 pin motherboard and cpu 8 pin cables are not long enough for the nano s if you are routing it behind the grommets. I own a asrock z270 itx gaming for reference.


Thanks


----------



## FreddyW

Hello everyone
Is any core owner here who can talk me the dimensions of the i/o panel in the front?


----------



## Qu1ckset

I have a feeling this is going to be a long wait for the Define R6 Blackout TG...

Not a single Canadian Retailer has the R6 listed in there websites and newegg.com doesn't even have the blackout listed on there preorder for US customers...


----------



## Exercate

I thought I saw the "official release date" for the R6 in North America was 1/15/2018. Or, 15 January, for the Canadians. The Blackout TG may be what everyone wants. That's why I am looking at the Gunmetal TG as an alternative. Check it out...


----------



## Metal425

So everyone is waiting on the R6 TG, but what is the general consensus on color options? I'm personally going back and forth between the White and Gunmetal. I can't decide..


----------



## jonny27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metal425*
> 
> So everyone is waiting on the R6 TG, but what is the general consensus on color options? I'm personally going back and forth between the White and Gunmetal. I can't decide..


Almost everyone







The more years pass, the more bummed I am Fractal is yet to release an Arc R3, I'd rather have the Define R's mounting options, but with the free airflow. The Enthoo Pro M is becoming a more and more enticing option by the minute.


----------



## Cannonkill

I would like some opinions, hoping to not start a war, but what is the better way for cooling. Right now I have a 360 in the front and a 240 on top of a define s. This is cooling a i7 7700k and a 970. I wouldn't consider temps right now as hot but they just seem a bit high for the amount of rad space. Just wondering if there is a better way to set up the rads?


----------



## khemist

What temps do you have on your 7700k and what voltage?.


----------



## lb_felipe

How low the speed of Dynamic X2 GP-14 can go before getting stall using a motherboard with broad voltage range in its fan controller?


----------



## Snaporz

I'm having an R6 shipped from Germany to me, lol. Probably would've chosen Blackout but replacing fans as it is, going liquid w/glass tubing, and vertical riser so won't see any white regardless.

Once I heard the solid side window hadn't even been received by Newegg I pulled the trigger because I'm tired of having everything for a new build but the case.


----------



## Transmaniacon

I have a Fractal Nano S and am considering adding an AIO cooler.

Per Fractals site, the max radiator size supported is 312mm x 147mm.

The new Corsair H115i Pro is 315mm x 143mm.

Do you think that spec from Fractal has any wiggle room or is that radiator probably too long? I know a lot of people have been able to fit bigger coolers than they specify, so I'm wondering if their figures are a little conservative.


----------



## Cannonkill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> What temps do you have on your 7700k and what voltage?.


temps idle ar low to mid 30's and gaming is in the 60-70 range. speeds are set to 4.8 at 1.26v on the core.
like i said nothing to high but it seems high for that much rad space.


----------



## khemist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cannonkill*
> 
> temps idle ar low to mid 30's and gaming is in the 60-70 range. speeds are set to 4.8 at 1.26v on the core.
> like i said nothing to high but it seems high for that much rad space.


https://postimages.org/

I am running the exact same, with a 1080ti 7700k @ 1.26v 4.8 with a XSPC rx360 only, this is after 2 hours of BF4, fans at 1200rpm.

Mine is delidded.

This board has voltage all over the place though, i've seen it hit 1.36v, not sure what the true voltage is.

Edit - infact i have reduced the cpu vccpll oc voltage and it has lowered the temps, i will report back later.



New temps with lower cpu vccpll oc voltage after 1 hour of BF1.


----------



## ANGRY-robert

I'm in the process of a custom loop build using the define s window. I want to use a hwlabs gts 360 radiator in front and on top. Fans in push only. Is there enough clearance to put in a rear case fan with the top radiator ports at the rear as well?


----------



## ManOnFire

Just made the switch to a Define C Meshify


----------



## Justux204

Mine, sorry for crappy quality.
CPU - Ryzen R5 1600 as right now runing at 3.8GHZ with 0.08125 offset
Motherboard - Asus b350 prime plus
Ram - 8GB 2113mhz (from old pc)
GPU - GTX 960 (also from old pc)
Case - Meshify C
Fans - chinese knockoff
Cooler - Hyper Evo 212
Mouse - Havit wireless gaming mouse
Pad - Razer knockoff
Headphones - Hyper X cloud stinger
SSD - 240GB goodram cx300
HDD - 1x1TB WD blue 7200rpm, 1x500GB samsung 2.5 5400rpm


http://imgur.com/p8xCH


----------



## milkguru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManOnFire*
> 
> Just made the switch to a Define C Meshify


Damn that's a tight fit! What gpu and radiator is that?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Justux204*
> 
> Mine, sorry for crappy quality.
> CPU - Ryzen R5 1600 as right now runing at 3.8GHZ with 0.08125 offset
> Motherboard - Asus b350 prime plus
> Ram - 8GB 2113mhz (from old pc)
> GPU - GTX 960 (also from old pc)
> Case - Meshify C
> Fans - chinese knockoff
> Cooler - Hyper Evo 212
> Mouse - Havit wireless gaming mouse
> Pad - Razer knockoff
> Headphones - Hyper X cloud stinger
> SSD - 240GB goodram cx300
> HDD - 1x1TB WD blue 7200rpm, 1x500GB samsung 2.5 5400rpm
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/p8xCH


Errr... You gotta sort out that LED strip down the bottom.. Doesn't look like it's doing anything apart from shining into your eyes.


----------



## Owterspace

My Define R4.


----------



## nyk20z3

Is the Fractal R6 available anywhere in Blackout/Glass ?

I am only seeing a pre order still on newegg and its for the standard Black version.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyk20z3*
> 
> Is the Fractal R6 available anywhere in Blackout/Glass ?
> 
> I am only seeing a pre order still on newegg and its for the standard Black version.


I'm hoping more places start to stock this case in the coming week or two seeing how neweggs release date is Jan 15

But ya I'm also patiently waiting for the Blackout Edition


----------



## ManOnFire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *milkguru*
> 
> Damn that's a tight fit! What gpu and radiator is that?


Yup sure was, I kinda screwed up the measurements but i'm happy enough with how it turned out for now. Apologies for the potato pic.

Its an MSI gaming 1080 and the rad is a EK PE360


----------



## wreckless

really hoping FD releases an insertable plate for the bottom right side of the psu shroud on the R6.

would give such a cleaner look. surprised they left it open.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wreckless*
> 
> really hoping FD releases an insertable plate for the bottom right side of the psu shroud on the R6.
> 
> would give such a cleaner look. surprised they left it open.


If you need that hole covered due to no use for it why not just get a smaller case ?


----------



## Ownedj00

Has anyone fit a 280mm rad in the front of a Meshify with full length GPU? Any pictures?

I have a 240mm in the top but I want a 280mm but cannot fit it in my case.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ownedj00*
> 
> Has anyone fit a 280mm rad in the front of a Meshify with full length GPU? Any pictures?
> 
> I have a 240mm in the top but I want a 280mm but cannot fit it in my case.


Rad and fans will only fit with reference length gpu's. Corsair hybrid would fit fine for example.
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/hydro-gfx-1080-ti


----------



## Ownedj00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Rad and fans will only fit with reference length gpu's. Corsair hybrid would fit fine for example.
> http://www.corsair.com/en-us/landing/hydro-gfx-1080-ti


Thanks. When Ampere drops I think i'll look at a founders ed. or a shorter card that's under 300mm. I currently have a gigabyte 980ti that's 310 I think.


----------



## Scotty99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ownedj00*
> 
> Thanks. When Ampere drops I think i'll look at a founders ed. or a shorter card that's under 300mm. I currently have a gigabyte 980ti that's 310 I think.


Ya i debated getting a different case for a bigger rad too, but even at 1.4v my 8700k does fine on a 240 aio.


----------



## Ownedj00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scotty99*
> 
> Ya i debated getting a different case for a bigger rad too, but even at 1.4v my 8700k does fine on a 240 aio.


Mine too was just thinking of going abit bigger. might go a watercooled GPU next then when Ampere comes out.


----------



## Qu1ckset

I heard the R6 TG Blackout doesn't come out till March....


----------



## Vathral

Any idea on where to get news on the Node 804? Seems like getting it for a decent price is impossible right now. Sold out everywhere for a few weeks now.


----------



## Velathawen

Does anybody know if R6 will require longer screws if you replace the stock fans in the front intake?

With my R5 using 140mm EK Vardars the default screws are too short and I had to purchase replacements separately.


----------



## Hawawaa

It seems all r6's are up now for preorder on newegg, release dates 1/23 and 1/30.







Believe I will be going with a blackout TG.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hawawaa*
> 
> It seems all r6's are up now for preorder on newegg, release dates 1/23 and 1/30.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Believe I will be going with a blackout TG.


Wicked, now all they need to do is list it on the newegg.ca site lol


----------



## jpm888

Wow the R6 is listed in my country already.... for nearly twice the price of a meshify


----------



## Nalty

Just got some CableMod extensions so my Meshify C is looking very fresh right now!


----------



## BucketInABucket

Got convinced into buying an R6 B/O edition for HK$1350 which is $172.72 when I was just looking for a Define C TG (HK$788 or $100.82). Expensive, yes, but it's unlikely to ever be in stock again, and I'm so hyped to finally build in it...

What's the optimal rad placement in this case with Corsair Vengeance LED RAM? Two slim 360s or a slim top 360 and thick front 360? I'm pretty sure it's one of the two but I just want to make sure.


----------



## Scotty99

Kinda curious why people like the R6, its just so long lol.It looks nice and i like that the TG panel does not have thumb screws but lots of wasted internal space unless you have 15 hard drives or enormous radiators.


----------



## jpm888

The TG R6 in my country is equivalent to $197......


----------



## cnckane

Hello,
I just got a Define Mini C. Very satisfied with the case, the look, the build quality - everything is perfect to me. I'd like to ask a few questions mostly about airflow.

So I have 2x Akasa Apache fans - one is on the CPU heatsink, one on the back. I have the 2x builtin Fractal fans as intake on front. I have a 300W and long graphics card, do I need a top fan ? There is no room above the CPU heatsink, but I could place one next to it above the VGA. But if I do this it will blow out fresh air from the top intake too ? Currently I have Moduvent installed, looks really nice. Would be better if I remove it and use the filter with/out fans ?

Then the HDD cage, I removed the top plate from above it, but my HDD is still getting warmer, it's 45°C max. is that acceptable ? I'm thinking to add a slim 80 or 90 mm fan in front of it but do you think it's worth it ?

Thanks

ps.: If you think I should replace the fans to something else please tell me. The Aakasa fans are leftovers from my previous PC but I'll gladly buy different fans if they're better. I run them at lower speed at idle and they're inaudible, they're acceptable till ~70% at load that's the max I use with them.


----------



## BucketInABucket

EDITED: Added 2nd option.

Now I'm planning my loop and I've settled for these two layouts at the moment. Do you guys have any suggestions? Improvements? I've already got the cpu block (raystorm pro), gpu block (heatkiller iv 1080ti) and pump/res (heatkiller tube 150 d5).




First way's harder to plumb but easier to drain because I need to worry about bringing tubing in and out of the psu shroud, and vice versa. Tough decisions...


----------



## khemist

What rads are you using?.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khemist*
> 
> What rads are you using?.


Slim 30mms. Undecided on what kind yet, but probably the magicool g2 360 slims because I'm relatively cheap and those perform pretty damn good for cheap slim rads.


----------



## Velathawen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BucketInABucket*
> 
> Got convinced into buying an R6 B/O edition for HK$1350 which is $172.72 when I was just looking for a Define C TG (HK$788 or $100.82). Expensive, yes, but it's unlikely to ever be in stock again, and I'm so hyped to finally build in it...
> 
> What's the optimal rad placement in this case with Corsair Vengeance LED RAM? Two slim 360s or a slim top 360 and thick front 360? I'm pretty sure it's one of the two but I just want to make sure.


Which shop did you buy yours from? I'm hoping it was Capital since I want to get some other stuff there as well next time I'm in SSP.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Velathawen*
> 
> Which shop did you buy yours from? I'm hoping it was Capital since I want to get some other stuff there as well next time I'm in SSP.


Centralfield, actually. They had one BO edition (which I bought) and one Black edition come in when I was there. Not sure if they still have the B edition available.


----------



## Velathawen

I think they'll have more stock after CNY but I'll keep an eye out, thanks!


----------



## BucketInABucket

Decided on two Magicool G2 slim 360s. Super cheap off taobao (RMB335 for the two, about as much as my G2 slim 240 cost in the UK). Now I just have to wait for them to come, install the rads and get the fittings then I'll be done!


----------



## Hawawaa

Damn looks like my R6 is now due on 3/7/2018.


----------



## Qu1ckset

For any of the Canadians in here, the Define R6 Black and Define R6 Black TG are available on Newegg.ca now.. 



Hawawaa said:


> Damn looks like my R6 is now due on 3/7/2018.


You and me both lol, im almost tempted to get the black haha


----------



## PowerSlide

R6 arrived here too in Malaysia and its quite fast as usually here take ages for new stuffs to be brought in, but i'm gonna wait for gunmetal


----------



## SaintsEnd

Any owner who has a Define R6:

Is the Tempered Glass side panel mountable on both sides of the case?


----------



## Vathral

SaintsEnd said:


> Any owner who has a Define R6:
> 
> Is the Tempered Glass side panel mountable on both sides of the case?


Like this? Skip to 2:30 
https://youtu.be/C3r4bIan9Vs?t=2m38s


----------



## ABeta

I am soooo stoked. I live in California, so Newegg charges tax. I just got off the phone with a customer service rep and they agreed to credit me on tax for the purchase of a Define R6 TG!!!. I am local to their warehouse also, so I chose the will-call option. 

I can't wait to get this case in my hands and transfer the guts from my Lian li 2120x. This will be the first time ever I moved away from Lian Li also. I am super excited.


----------



## ABeta

I am soooo stoked. I live in California, so Newegg charges tax. I just got off the phone with a customer service rep and they agreed to credit me on tax for the purchase of a Define R6 TG!!!. I am local to their warehouse also, so I chose the will-call option. 

I can't wait to get this case in my hands and transfer the guts from my Lian li 2120x. This will be the first time ever I moved away from Lian Li also. I am super excited.


----------



## Weber

Define R6 built.


----------



## stcawthern

Mine also came in today! Have a few more tweaks to take care of, and a lot of cable management in the back to be done. I do have to say, the case is extremely easy work with.


----------



## Qu1ckset

stcawthern said:


> Mine also came in today! Have a few more tweaks to take care of, and a lot of cable management in the back to be done. I do have to say, the case is extremely easy work with.


The rad on the top , is that just push or push/pull


----------



## stcawthern

Qu1ckset said:


> The rad on the top , is that just push or push/pull



Just push. It is on the set of rails farther towards the motherboard though. From the looks of it, it seems like the nearer set of rails would clear the fans from the RAM if there are clearance issues.


----------



## jase78

I received my define r6 today and am currently building in it. I am torn on whether or not to push air out of the front 360 rad or in. thoughts? I have a 280 for the top and the 360 for the front. If i have both rads pushing air out that only leaves the rear and whatever air can get in thru the bottom as intakes.


----------



## Scotty99

In obviously, that is why the filter is there


----------



## ANGRY-robert

Would anyone with the new R6 be so kind as to provide a rough L x W dimension of the power button / usb panel. The upgrade Connect D1 is on the fractal design page but no dimensions are listed along with it.


----------



## jase78

usb panel is 155 mm long and 35 mm wide


----------



## jase78

ran into an issue fitting 280 rad up top. Cant fit a fan between the rad and my ram (trident z). was hoping this case would be tall enough to not run into clearance issues with ram or vrm heat-sinks but it turns out it there is even less room than nzxt's h440.


----------



## ANGRY-robert

jase78 said:


> usb panel is 155 mm long and 35 mm wide


Thank you.


----------



## Qu1ckset

My local pc shop has the black R6 in stock , part of me wants to cancel my pre-order and just buy that over the Blackout version lol


----------



## jase78

went ahead and ordered a 240 rad and fans because a 280 simply cannot fit on top of this case(with my ram/mobo anyways). As a result i will be selling these parts ; about one year old hwl 280gts,(3) noctua 140mm industrial pwm 2k fans (one of the fans is still NIB). If anyone is interested lmk.


----------



## becks

jase78 said:


> went ahead and ordered a 240 rad and fans because a 280 simply cannot fit on top of this case(with my ram/mobo anyways). As a result i will be selling these parts ; about one year old hwl 280gts,(3) noctua 140mm industrial pwm 2k fans (one of the fans is still NIB). If anyone is interested lmk.


Had same issue when I build into my Define Nano S with 2x 240 mm rads and the MB was not helping at all (M8I - with the VRM raiser card) What I did to make it work was cut the fans (yep..I have Noctua Ipp's as well) back mounting fins.
Basically only screwing them with 3 bolts.

All my forum pictures vanished from the account but if you go back trough this tread I am sure you will find my pictures.


----------



## jase78

becks said:


> Had same issue when I build into my Define Nano S with 2x 240 mm rads and the MB was not helping at all (M8I - with the VRM raiser card) What I did to make it work was cut the fans (yep..I have Noctua Ipp's as well) back mounting fins.
> Basically only screwing them with 3 bolts.
> 
> All my forum pictures vanished from the account but if you go back trough this tread I am sure you will find my pictures.


Wow that sux! I am hoping with the 240 in the slots furthest away from the mobo I will have the clearance needed. Just makes me wonder why they don't consider this when designing their case.


----------



## schizetia

Hi,

I need some guidance with regards to the Nexus+ Smart hub in the Define R6. I understand the hub needs to be connected to the CPU_FAN header based on the manual. I'm thinking of installing the Corsair H115i 280mm AIO for my CPU & the manual states the pump power cable to be connected to the CPU_FAN header as well.

Thanks & appreciate the help.


----------



## jase78

Does anyone know how the nexus smart fan hub works on the define r6? It has 3 pwm ports and 6 3 pin . I'm hoping it works like my SWIFTECH fan hub . But that fan hub has a clearly marked "monitored " port and the rest are ran at the same speed .


----------



## khemist

Latest in my R6.


----------



## Snaporz

Not completely done yet. Need to add in my hue+ strips.

Did 16mm glass tubing with a 360 up top and 280 in front.

Was pretty fun, and frustrating, to build. Lol


----------



## leops1984

So, I have a question for the Define R6 owners: I'm thinking of getting it, but I want to modify it by putting a 7" LCD where the blank panel covering the drive bays goes. To do this, I need to connect the LCD to an HDMI port. Neither my motherboard nor my GPU has any internal headers. Are there any holes/gaps/etc that I can use to run an HDMI cable out of the case? The only idea I have right now would be to use the small cable management grommet beside the PSU and modify one of the PCI slot covers to function as a gap, but I really don't want to do this - my house can get very dusty, so I want to minimize the number of holes from the system that don't have any air filters, including slot covers.

Am I missing something here? How do I do a HDMI passthrough on the R6?


----------



## Weber

There is room to cut around the bottom of the fan's mounts.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Or try a usb header > usb > usb-hdmi adapter if you arent doing anything too intensive.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Hi folks, I thought I would share this creation by MNPCTECH using a Fractal Design Define Nano S:









It'll be a copper tubing water cooled mITX build with some beefy hardware that I need to be able to render video quickly. Watcha guys think?

EDIT: I'm really impressed with the layout of this case. It's the ideal mITX case to be watercooled. Well done, Fractal Design!


----------



## toncij

How much space does an R6 have in thickness when putting 360 rads inside? Would love to put dual 360 in it, but I think it won't fit not even in push let alone push-pull...


----------



## fearthisneo

Hey guys, just finished my Define R6 build last night.


----------



## The Pook

Finally ditching my 'ancient' Fractal Design Midi Arc 2 for a Phanteks P400S TG. 

Still waiting on my order to ship but almost sad in a way  Poor case has been through several builds and has seen better days but she's done me good


----------



## Mrip541

I just moved from a Corsair 250D to a Define C, and my temps are definitely up. H115i Pro intake, stock exhaust at the back. The air inside is hot enough that the entire case is pretty warm to the touch. If I install a fan to the floor of the case, behind the psu, blowing up, will that actually reduce airflow from the front to back? I'd really like to keep the top of the case closed.


----------



## Jalkion

If anybody would be willing I'd love if you would measure the distance from the front fans to the CPU in the R6.

I want to mount a h110i there but I don't think the tube is long enough, and I there is not enough clearing on top.


----------



## jase78

i can measure it tomorrow but why do you think there isn't enough room up top? I can assure you there is. That uses a 240 rad correct?


----------



## Jalkion

jase78 said:


> i can measure it tomorrow but why do you think there isn't enough room up top? I can assure you there is. That uses a 240 rad correct?


No, it's a 280mm rad, 27mm rad thickness + 25mm or 29mm fan thickness


----------



## lolredy

jase78 said:


> ran into an issue fitting 280 rad up top. Cant fit a fan between the rad and my ram (trident z). was hoping this case would be tall enough to not run into clearance issues with ram or vrm heat-sinks but it turns out it there is even less room than nzxt's h440.


This is kinda disappointing, honestly. Can't believe that they would overlook that. The fans can't fit between tridentz and the 280 radiator at all? Did someone else have that problem?


----------



## boostedxfg2

What's up y'all, after much research and checking reviews, I just purchased an r6 from Fractal. Can't wait to get it. :thumbsups:


----------



## khemist

Latest in my r6.


----------



## boostedxfg2

khemist said:


> Latest in my r6.


Looks nice, which keyboard is that?


----------



## khemist

Coolermaster masterkeys pro s with Tai Hao vintage Grey keycaps.


----------



## boostedxfg2

khemist said:


> Coolermaster masterkeys pro s with Tai Hao vintage Grey keycaps.


Key caps look pretty cool :thumb:


----------



## trendy

khemist said:


> Latest in my r6.


I've been eyeballing the R6 for my next build. I was wondering, for the vertical GPU mount, do you think there's enough clearance to fit a video card that takes up a bit more than 2 slots?


----------



## khemist

You could fit it but it would be very close to the glass, i wouldn't want to if i was on air cooling.


----------



## trendy

Thanks for responding. I'm aware it will be tight, plan on doing a full custom water cooling loop after my hardware is upgraded :-D


----------



## jase78

Jalkion said:


> No, it's a 280mm rad, 27mm rad thickness + 25mm or 29mm fan thickness


ok. unfortunately my 280 would not fit with my motherboard. As you can see the fans are down bellow the vrm heatsink. Gave me an excuse to get some more parts though!


----------



## Fractal Design

Just a heads up for anyone who might be interested in picking up a Define S; the windowed version is on sale nearly half-off at Newegg right now: 

Fractal Design Define S Black Window Silent ATX Midtower
$89.99 - $40 = $49.99
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352055

This is by far the lowest price I've ever seen it (and probably the lowest it'll ever be, honestly). Ends tomorrow though, assuming they don't run out of stock before then.

Just FYI.


----------



## ZealotKi11er

Fractal Design said:


> Just a heads up for anyone who might be interested in picking up a Define S; the windowed version is on sale nearly half-off at Newegg right now:
> 
> Fractal Design Define S Black Window Silent ATX Midtower
> $89.99 - $40 = $49.99
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352055
> 
> This is by far the lowest price I've ever seen it (and probably the lowest it'll ever be, honestly). Ends tomorrow though, assuming they don't run out of stock before then.
> 
> Just FYI.


If only we got same love in Canada. Its $120 CAD here.


----------



## strong island 1

trendy said:


> Thanks for responding. I'm aware it will be tight, plan on doing a full custom water cooling loop after my hardware is upgraded :-D


ya it's just really frustrating right now that the accessories arent available. I really wanted to do a vertical gpu. I almost feel like I need to at this point. This phanteks strix block is so crazy heavy. There is no way I am putting this normal on my maximus x formula. I got the diy cable from amazon but holes dont line up. Should be an easy mod, but its frustrating the official one is still not available.


----------



## git gut

Any chances to fit Asus x99-e ws ( CEB Form Factor 12 inch x 10.5 inch or 30.5 cm x 26.7 cm ) in Fractal Define/Meshify C ? I found pic with Asus Maximus IX Apex in this cassis but i still not sure about it since Asus Maximus IX Apex has cutouts on each side. Thx


----------



## MothMusic

Hello Fractal hardware rep I had a question. Will you guys be making any m-atx Meshify cases? In addition to that will be releasing any Meshify cases in gray and white too?


----------



## milkguru

So I messaged Fractal Design about the possibility of a tempered glass define nano s

Hello milkguru, 
Thanks for your input, we'll consider it!

Best regards,
Fractal Design
Product development team


Bit of a generic reply, but I guess if anyone else wants them to hurry up and make a TG nano s - best way is to let them know that there's interest out there!
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


----------



## Fractal Design

ZealotKi11er said:


> If only we got same love in Canada. Its $120 CAD here.


Currency conversions aside you guys ought to be getting more or less the same deals. I went ahead and sent the Newegg team a heads up that their CA customers were asking about the promos going on at the US site, and though nothing's changed with the Define S, I did notice several other cases are suddenly $40-60 off with free shipping at Newegg.ca:

Define R5 Black - Window
$179 - $60 = $119 w/ free shipping
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352049

Define C - Window
$124 - $45 = $79 w/ free shipping
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352063

Define Mini C - TG
$119 - $40 = $79 w/ free shipping
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352071


----------



## Fractal Design

strong island 1 said:


> ya it's just really frustrating right now that the accessories arent available. I really wanted to do a vertical gpu. I almost feel like I need to at this point. This phanteks strix block is so crazy heavy. There is no way I am putting this normal on my maximus x formula. I got the diy cable from amazon but holes dont line up. Should be an easy mod, but its frustrating the official one is still not available.


Sorry it's been such a long wait on those accessories, but rest assured they are still coming and it shouldn't be long now. I expect we'll see some news on availability for the Flex VRC within the next few weeks.


----------



## Fractal Design

git gut said:


> Any chances to fit Asus x99-e ws ( CEB Form Factor 12 inch x 10.5 inch or 30.5 cm x 26.7 cm ) in Fractal Define/Meshify C ? I found pic with Asus Maximus IX Apex in this cassis but i still not sure about it since Asus Maximus IX Apex has cutouts on each side. Thx


Not without modding. Anything wider than ATX will extend past the recessed area of the back plate, so you'd have to either cut or bend the raised area along the pass through holes to remove the obstruction, and even then I suspect connections and cable management would be a challenge on that side of the board. The Define R6 would probably be your best option for a board that size.


----------



## Fractal Design

MothMusic said:


> Hello Fractal hardware rep I had a question. Will you guys be making any m-atx Meshify cases? In addition to that will be releasing any Meshify cases in gray and white too?


Awesome timing: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/meshify-c-mini-news-post

As for new color variations, I can't really comment on potential products, product revisions, or the like before there's been an official announcement. We're generally pretty good listeners though, so if it's something people want then at the very least it's something we'll consider.


----------



## Fractal Design

milkguru said:


> So I messaged Fractal Design about the possibility of a tempered glass define nano s
> 
> Hello milkguru,
> Thanks for your input, we'll consider it!
> 
> Best regards,
> Fractal Design
> Product development team
> 
> 
> Bit of a generic reply, but I guess if anyone else wants them to hurry up and make a TG nano s - best way is to let them know that there's interest out there!
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


Generic but true. Practically everything we make starts with suggestions and inquiries like these.


----------



## Ownedj00

How about making the Meshify a little bit wider so you can fit a 280mm AIO in the top. It would only have to be 20mm wider to make it fit.  

I like the Meshify as its compact and will still fit a full size GPU.


----------



## kd5151

https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/fractal-design-meshify-mini-c-review,1.html

1 meshify mini review coming right up!


----------



## Mikecdm

Using an R5 for my unraid server. Been thinking about swapping my daily for an R6 and move my GTS 360 in there and a second one. I've been debating this for weeks. Not sure if I should keep my 600Q and single rad or go for the R6 and dual rads. Not like I need the cooling, but it doesn't hurt. I just want quiet and good temps. Kind of thinking adding 3 more fans and an open top panel aren't going to help any with noise. 

Well here are pics of my R5.


----------



## strong island 1

Mikecdm said:


> Using an R5 for my unraid server. Been thinking about swapping my daily for an R6 and move my GTS 360 in there and a second one. I've been debating this for weeks. Not sure if I should keep my 600Q and single rad or go for the R6 and dual rads. Not like I need the cooling, but it doesn't hurt. I just want quiet and good temps. Kind of thinking adding 3 more fans and an open top panel aren't going to help any with noise.
> 
> Well here are pics of my R5.


looks really nice. ya the r6 is really great. i cant make up my mind either, have an r6 sitting here waiting to be built, but the top rad clearance is very tight. even just 50mm of fan and skinny rad overhangs board. but its a really nice case.


----------



## Mikecdm

strong island 1 said:


> looks really nice. ya the r6 is really great. i cant make up my mind either, have an r6 sitting here waiting to be built, but the top rad clearance is very tight. even just 50mm of fan and skinny rad overhangs board. but its a really nice case.


At least you already have the case. I'd still have to buy the case, then the second rad. I could use a slim 240 rad, but if I'm going to do it I want to use the triple. The GTS I'm using now is only 30mm, and I'd probably just buy a second one. Not sure if I'd get the normal version or one of those cross flow versions with a port on each side. I got plenty of fans, using gentle thypoon AP15 at like 800 rpm or lower. The asus software tells me around 680 rpm.

I can live with a bit of over hang. My ram isn't very tall and I don't have any fancy heatsinks or cooling on the board. I'm just using an x99A-II and a 5960x. I don't like windows and rgb, so I'd get the standard version. I like the look of that hardline tubing stuff, but nobody is going to see it and then I'd need to buy a bunch of fittings and tubing. If I were to use soft tubing, I'd only need to buy a few 90° or 45° fittings and I'd be set. Fortunately I have all these other rads that I can't use like a 480 feser, 360 monsta, and 240 swiftech thing.


----------



## Bi5h0p

Fractal Design said:


> Awesome timing: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/meshify-c-mini-news-post
> 
> As for new color variations, I can't really comment on potential products, product revisions, or the like before there's been an official announcement. We're generally pretty good listeners though, so if it's something people want then at the very least it's something we'll consider.


I hope that in the near future we will see new itx Fractal chassis.


----------



## milkguru

Bi5h0p said:


> I hope that in the near future we will see new itx Fractal chassis.


I've been waiting for a new itx chassis for so long.. it's what's holding me back from doing a new build!
if they release an itx meshify, then the wait will have been worth it!

although the matx meshify is tempting..


----------



## strong island 1

Bi5h0p said:


> I hope that in the near future we will see new itx Fractal chassis.


i really hope we also see an r6 with a revised top. Like instead of using the vented top, just make it so you can put fans in the top. If you can put a vent you wouldnt even need much more space. That would be the perfect case.


----------



## strong island 1

Mikecdm said:


> At least you already have the case. I'd still have to buy the case, then the second rad. I could use a slim 240 rad, but if I'm going to do it I want to use the triple. The GTS I'm using now is only 30mm, and I'd probably just buy a second one. Not sure if I'd get the normal version or one of those cross flow versions with a port on each side. I got plenty of fans, using gentle thypoon AP15 at like 800 rpm or lower. The asus software tells me around 680 rpm.
> 
> I can live with a bit of over hang. My ram isn't very tall and I don't have any fancy heatsinks or cooling on the board. I'm just using an x99A-II and a 5960x. I don't like windows and rgb, so I'd get the standard version. I like the look of that hardline tubing stuff, but nobody is going to see it and then I'd need to buy a bunch of fittings and tubing. If I were to use soft tubing, I'd only need to buy a few 90° or 45° fittings and I'd be set. Fortunately I have all these other rads that I can't use like a 480 feser, 360 monsta, and 240 swiftech thing.


ya 30mm rad would be nice, mine is the ek slim, which is about that size, luckily the top rad mount has an offset position so you can overhang a bit and fit the rad you want. I just didnt plan right and bought a mobo with vrm block and cant attach a fitting with a slim 360 and fans. But I guess thats more my fault than the cases.

this case is amazing for a solid side door and a lot of storage.


----------



## MothMusic

That is good news that you guys are finally releasing a m-atx Meshify. Will you guys make a version without the dark tint? I know that you recently released a Meshify C with a fully transparent window instead of the dark one.


----------



## keith5

So do we think the R6 ship date for next week is accurate? I've had a gunmetal preordered from Newegg since 1/17 and I'm dying to get started with my build.


----------



## Mms60r

Recently just finished off a PC build. Thought I'd share it here since I'm using a Fractal Define Mini TG. Pretty simple build really coming from a full custom loop.

Ryzen 5 1600 @3.9Ghz $190 Newegg
Asrock Fatality B350 mitx $90 Newegg
16Gb DDR4 @ 2933Mhz $140 Newegg
MSI GTX 1070ti Gaming $490 Newegg
Toshiba XP3 128Gb NVMe boot drive $67 Ebay
Samsung 840 Pro 256Gb Steam drive (from last build)
Fractal S24 Celsius AIO cooler $105 Newegg
Corsair HD120 fans $125 Newegg
EVGA G2 650 psu $45 Craigslist
Total $1252

Let me now what you guys think. I find the GPU a bit loud after having a custom loop for so long so a h2o might be in the future.


----------



## Blinky7

Hello all. I am looking for a new ATX case that is midi and not too big and I am considering the Define C / Meshify C in TG versions.
My only gripe is that they are too damn small in length. I mean what t he hell, going from the 520mm length of the Define S all the way down to 399mm with the C. Some middle ground would be perfect, as those cases dont even look right from the side with their length and height being disproportionate.
I believe 2-5 more cm on length would be excellent to give some breathing room inside for longer gpus and front radiators. Like the Phanteks p400 or the NZXT s340

Anyway in every other respect they are excellent cases and I would like to know if I can get around this problem to buy one.
Well, I got a 280 AIO (evga clc 280) and I want to mount it on the front (I believe it doesnt fit on the top anyway being 280). With radiator+fan=52mm there is 288mm length left if my calculations are correct and my Evga 1080 ti (299mm length) does not fit.

Is there some way to mount the radiator or the radiator fans on the outside behind the front panel to gain 25-27mm inside? Does either one fit, and is performance compromised too much?


----------



## Scotty99

Ya thats the limitation of the meshify c, reference gpu's fit fine tho with a rad+fans in the front. Have you considered the s340 elite?


----------



## Blinky7

Scotty99 said:


> Ya thats the limitation of the meshify c, reference gpu's fit fine tho with a rad+fans in the front. Have you considered the s340 elite?


I have considered it but there are a lot of things I dont like about it and performance is also one of them.

Seeing this review he measures the inside from the pci bracket up to the fan as 330mm instead of 315mm that fractal says. Is he right? If that is right, I wouldnt have a problem....
Could someone that has the case actually measure the inside from the pci-bracket to the front?


----------



## Scotty99

All i can say is my strix 1080ti would not fit with a deepcool 240 at the front.

As a side note i just swapped my parts from my meshify back to my H440 and temps are only 1-2c higher.


----------



## milkguru

Scotty99 said:


> All i can say is my strix 1080ti would not fit with a deepcool 240 at the front.
> 
> As a side note i just swapped my parts from my meshify back to my H440 and temps are only 1-2c higher.


Stix 1080ti is 298mm. A normal 1080ti is 267mm, so the strix is 32mm longer. That's a pretty significant difference considering that's more than the thickness of a slim radiator.

Would you happen to have a pic of your meshify c next to your h440? Would like to see them next to each other as a size comparison


----------



## Fractal Design

Blinky7 said:


> I have considered it but there are a lot of things I dont like about it and performance is also one of them.
> 
> Seeing this review he measures the inside from the pci bracket up to the fan as 330mm instead of 315mm that fractal says. Is he right? If that is right, I wouldnt have a problem....
> Could someone that has the case actually measure the inside from the pci-bracket to the front?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THjzl3zC6rs


It's 315 mm from bracket to front fan. Relocating or removing the front fan will give you an additional 25 mm for a max length of about 340 mm.


----------



## Blinky7

Fractal Design said:


> It's 315 mm from bracket to front fan. Relocating or removing the front fan will give you an additional 25 mm for a max length of about 340 mm.


Thanks for the clarification.

Is it possible to mount the fan outside, behind the mesh on the Meshify or the front cover on the define c to gain that 25mm?

Do you as a company have a plan to release any case as a middle ground (in length) from the meshify/define C 's 399mm to the Define S / R6 size of 520-543mm ? It is a pretty huge gap in my opinion and I believe ~450mm is optimal for most people.


----------



## Scotty99

Honestly the meshify is about as perfect as it gets, the R6 is just too long lol. Meshify/define c are small enough that many can fit them on top of their desks to show them off, i think that was probably part of the design decision when making these cases.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Yup. I finally built in my Define Mini C TG modded w/ a transparent LCD and it looks spectacular on my desk. Compact, but big enough to fit enough parts for the majority of people.


----------



## Loladinas

Hey, so now that the Meshify C Mini is out, any chance of being able to buy just the front grill for it separately, to convert my Define Mini C?


----------



## Qu1ckset

I guess more delays....


----------



## keith5

So it's gonna end up being a 2 month wait pretty much. Even caselabs was quicker.


----------



## strong island 1

I have a brand new black tg one sitting right here that I havent touched, still cant decide if I want it. If someone really wants one let me know.


----------



## Mikecdm

Was gonna order gunmetal R6 today, feels bad.


----------



## Exercate

*Long wait?*

Disappointed with a long wait myself. I ordered my Gunmetal R6 TG on 6th, February.


----------



## keith5

> We are contacting you today regarding your pre-order for the Fractal Design Define R6 ATX Mid Tower Computer Case. Unfortunately, we did not receive our inventory of this item as anticipated and were unable to fulfill your Pre-Order. The inventory's ETA has been revised to May 30th 2018 by our vendor.


Um okay Newegg. This is wrong, I assume?


----------



## Exercate

*Fractal Design R6 pre-order from NewEgg*

I made an inquiry with Fractal Design - and got this back:
The cases have arrived in port, but they did, unfortunately, get caught in customs. We won’t have a final delivery date to Newegg until they have fully cleared customs, however, we are hoping for next week. We apologize for the delay. Please keep an eye on our Facebook and Twitter pages as we will be posting updates there as info becomes available.

Then, about an hour or so after I got that, I got this from NewEgg:
We are contacting you today regarding your pre-order for the Fractal Design Define R6 ATX Mid Tower Computer Case. Unfortunately, we did not receive our inventory of this item as anticipated and were unable to fulfill your Pre-Order. The inventory's ETA has been revised to May 30th 2018 by our vendor. You are welcome to keep your existing pre-order and it will be processed and shipped once we receive inventory, or you can instead choose to cancel your pre-order within your Newegg Account's Order History.

Newegg is dedicated to ensuring our customers are notified and provided all necessary information to make the best shopping selection. Please keep in mind that your method of payment has not been charged for the pre-order.

If you have any questions regarding the information provided in this email, please do not hesitate to contact Newegg Customer Service through one of the convenient contact methods provided here.


So! "hoping for next week", and "May 30th, 2018" are quite far apart.


----------



## Mikecdm

Seems like newegg doesn't want to keep letting you down week after week, so they set a date thats far away. Fractal tries to keep your hopes up and says next weeek. Then nothing happens and they say maybe the week after. It's stuck at customs, nobody knows when they'll clear customs.


----------



## Gruff

Picked up a Meshify C to do a build for a friend and after working in it I would consider one to replace my Define S if they made on just a tad bit larger. My thoughts for a tweaked version:

- Leave the length as it is since its perfect for air cooled ATX builds 

- Make the case about an inch wider so that a 3.5" drive can be mounted flat against the back of the motherboard tray. That way the hdd cage can be removed completely while keeping at least one HDD

- Make the case a couple of inches taller to allow for better clearance for top rad placement. A little extra height could also allow for triple 140mm fans up front

 - replace the foam with a magnetic dust filter

- SSD mounts on the PSU shroud

- a white version

I guess one could say that an R6 meets most of those needs, but the R6 is just a bit too long for an air cooled build or for someone that wouldn't make use of all those HDD bays.


----------



## Scotty99

Making the meshify bigger surely is not on the table for fractal, its purpose is clearly to sit atop a desk to show off. SSD mounts on the PSU shroud are tacky when not populated, and m.2 is going to become the norm sooner than later (already is really, even 50 dollar motherboards have an m.2 slot). Agree on dust filter foam is crap, and redo front panel so its not connected to the cables 

Ive since switched from meshify to s340 elite because i really dont have a large enough desk to put a PC on top of it, but for its intended audience the meshify is an absolute home run and the best case of 2017.


----------



## Ownedj00

Gruff said:


> Picked up a Meshify C to do a build for a friend and after working in it I would consider one to replace my Define S if they made on just a tad bit larger. My thoughts for a tweaked version:
> 
> - Leave the length as it is since its perfect for air cooled ATX builds
> 
> - Make the case about an inch wider so that a 3.5" drive can be mounted flat against the back of the motherboard tray. That way the hdd cage can be removed completely while keeping at least one HDD
> 
> - Make the case a couple of inches taller to allow for better clearance for top rad placement. A little extra height could also allow for triple 140mm fans up front
> 
> - replace the foam with a magnetic dust filter
> 
> - SSD mounts on the PSU shroud
> 
> - a white version
> 
> I guess one could say that an R6 meets most of those needs, but the R6 is just a bit too long for an air cooled build or for someone that wouldn't make use of all those HDD bays.


I agree about being abit wider so you can mount hdd on the back and get rid of the hdd cage but definatly not the SSD mountsd on the PSU shroud. I like the size of the meshify but if only i could fit a 280mm rad in the top would be great. definitely change the crappy foam front mesh, make it a removable like the bottom one. 



Scotty99 said:


> Making the meshify bigger surely is not on the table for fractal, its purpose is clearly to sit atop a desk to show off. SSD mounts on the PSU shroud are tacky when not populated, and m.2 is going to become the norm sooner than later (already is really, even 50 dollar motherboards have an m.2 slot). Agree on dust filter foam is crap, and redo front panel so its not connected to the cables
> 
> Ive since switched from meshify to s340 elite because i really dont have a large enough desk to put a PC on top of it, but for its intended audience the meshify is an absolute home run and the best case of 2017.


i love that it fits on my desk and does not take up much room which is why i got it and it has mesh on the front.


----------



## strong island 1

ya this flex vrc bracket is a little frustrating also. I bought a really heavy block with a clear top just to show it off and I have been trying to mount a $25 diy cable to make it work and it just feels crappy and unstable. I really didnt think it would take this long. I feel like if you show off a feature in promos and the case is available it's not cool not to have the accessory available.

I love the case but it's just a little frustrating.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Is this the official thread for Meshify owners? I've recently started up a build... well migrated my existing build into this new case.

When I was using my Corsair C70, there was a great owners club with tips & tricks for modifying said case. Is this the place to discuss and show off Meshify builds?

I ask because it's not in the OP and there isn't a Meshify Club (that I know of).

Thanks in advance


----------



## Gruff

I guess if I get a meshify I'll just have to use the old Dremel and some rubber grommets to make a cable pass through, and use the SSD brackets from the Define S to mount the SSDs on the shroud.


----------



## Ownedj00

Slaughtahouse said:


> Is this the official thread for Meshify owners? I've recently started up a build... well migrated my existing build into this new case.
> 
> When I was using my Corsair C70, there was a great owners club with tips & tricks for modifying said case. Is this the place to discuss and show off Meshify builds?
> 
> I ask because it's not in the OP and there isn't a Meshify Club (that I know of).
> 
> Thanks in advance


i migrated from a C70 too. Meshify is the best choice i made.


----------



## strong island 1

well I got a tiny bit done tonight. Hopefully the gpu comes out straight. I kind of hate a vertical gpu, having to rely on one of these cables. But the block is so heavy and really nice looking, I had to do it, gonna put like a dressing under gpu to hide the ugly tape

I cant believe how many fittings I bought, was planning much bigger build with bigger case. Need to find out what I need in 3 days so I can return a lot.

I got dirty fingerprints on them but the fittings are really nice looking.


----------



## Gruff

Just discovered something interesting - apparently there is a Meshify C with white exterior on the way:

http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=6_112&item_id=119755

I don't know why they didn't make the interior white as well.


----------



## Scotty99

They also make a meshify c with a clear window now, the original is called "dark tinted glass" or something like that lol.


----------



## milkguru

Some Tech Nub said:


> Yup. I finally built in my Define Mini C TG modded w/ a transparent LCD and it looks spectacular on my desk. Compact, but big enough to fit enough parts for the majority of people.


Would be keen to see some pics!

edit: nvm, i found them


----------



## Slaughtahouse

White looks pretty bad IMO with the black interior and mesh. They should make it all white. Would of considered it since I popped into my local Canada Computers less than a month ago to buy my Meshify...  But if that's their variant of white, no thanks.

If anyone is curious, here are some photos of my migration from the Corsair C70 -> Meshify

P.S. I have better photos from my camera, these are just from my phone. 



Spoiler

















Spoiler

















Spoiler















Since my sig is gone, ill write down the specs.

ASUS X79 SABERTOOTH
3930K
EVGA GTX 780 SC
16 GB 2133 PATRIOT RAM
250GB SAMSUNG 840
2TB WD BLACK HDD
XSPC EX 360MM RAD
XSPC CPU WATERBLOCK (Cant remember name)
XSPC 780 WATERBLOCK
BLACK CHROME BITSPOWER FITTINGS (45,90,COMPRESSION ETC.)
EK 100 TUBE RES
XSPC D5 PUMP
BLACK LRT TUBING


----------



## Gruff

Scotty99 said:


> They also make a meshify c with a clear window now, the original is called "dark tinted glass" or something like that lol.


Ah yeah I've seen that they have a clear window version now, but there hasn't been any mention of a white one even on their site


----------



## Some Tech Nub

milkguru said:


> Some Tech Nub said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yup. I finally built in my Define Mini C TG modded w/ a transparent LCD and it looks spectacular on my desk. Compact, but big enough to fit enough parts for the majority of people.
> 
> 
> 
> Would be keen to see some pics!
> 
> edit: nvm, i found them
Click to expand...

I built my current M-ITX parts into it. Waiting for Ryzen 2 to fully flesh it out with white parts. Going to pick up a white mobo and white ram. Should look nice with a nh-d15 with white chromax.

Here is a more recent picture.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

What is this wizardry?! Your glass panel is a display?! That is awesome!!!!


----------



## Fractal Design

Exercate said:


> I made an inquiry with Fractal Design - and got this back:
> The cases have arrived in port, but they did, unfortunately, get caught in customs. We won’t have a final delivery date to Newegg until they have fully cleared customs, however, we are hoping for next week. We apologize for the delay. Please keep an eye on our Facebook and Twitter pages as we will be posting updates there as info becomes available.
> 
> Then, about an hour or so after I got that, I got this from NewEgg:
> We are contacting you today regarding your pre-order for the Fractal Design Define R6 ATX Mid Tower Computer Case. Unfortunately, we did not receive our inventory of this item as anticipated and were unable to fulfill your Pre-Order. The inventory's ETA has been revised to May 30th 2018 by our vendor. You are welcome to keep your existing pre-order and it will be processed and shipped once we receive inventory, or you can instead choose to cancel your pre-order within your Newegg Account's Order History.
> 
> Newegg is dedicated to ensuring our customers are notified and provided all necessary information to make the best shopping selection. Please keep in mind that your method of payment has not been charged for the pre-order.
> 
> If you have any questions regarding the information provided in this email, please do not hesitate to contact Newegg Customer Service through one of the convenient contact methods provided here.
> 
> 
> So! "hoping for next week", and "May 30th, 2018" are quite far apart.


Wherever it was this May 30 ship date came from it would seem someone was a bit confused. Stock should literally be in their warehouse at this point, likely shipping out tomorrow or the day after. Not sure where the wires got crossed over there but we got in touch with them to make sure that was all sorted out.


----------



## keith5

Fractal Design said:


> Wherever it was this May 30 ship date came from it would seem someone was a bit confused. Stock should literally be in their warehouse at this point, likely shipping out tomorrow or the day after. Not sure where the wires got crossed over there but we got in touch with them to make sure that was all sorted out.


That's great news, thanks for keeping us updated.

edit: and I was just charged, looks like they're in.


----------



## Mikecdm

So apparently the solid side panel R6 showed up on newegg. Picked up the gunmetal version. Now to choose a radiator. I've been thinking about a gts nemesis xflow on the top and using my existing gts in the front. Haven't seen anyone run an xflow at all. Maybe swapping out my old ek supremacy for a heatkiller iv pro as well.


----------



## Fractal Design

Blinky7 said:


> Thanks for the clarification.
> 
> Is it possible to mount the fan outside, behind the mesh on the Meshify or the front cover on the define c to gain that 25mm?
> 
> Do you as a company have a plan to release any case as a middle ground (in length) from the meshify/define C 's 399mm to the Define S / R6 size of 520-543mm ? It is a pretty huge gap in my opinion and I believe ~450mm is optimal for most people.


There's only about 12mm between the chassis and the framework of the front mesh, so unfortunately not enough space to mount a fan between the two. There are 7 fan positions throughout the case though, so if the fan does need to move to make way for a long GPU there are still plenty of options to rearrange for optimal airflow.

I'm not really able to say much with regards to future release plans, but as a general rule if it's something people want, it's something we'll look into. That's a really interesting observation though regarding the gap in depth size between series. It actually is rather large now that you mention it. I'll have to share that piece of insight with the PD team. Thanks for the input.


----------



## strong island 1

Mikecdm said:


> So apparently the solid side panel R6 showed up on newegg. Picked up the gunmetal version. Now to choose a radiator. I've been thinking about a gts nemesis xflow on the top and using my existing gts in the front. Haven't seen anyone run an xflow at all. Maybe swapping out my old ek supremacy for a heatkiller iv pro as well.


the magicool g2 fits perfect up top, it is so cheap and performance is like within 20 watts or less of gts. also its exactly 120mm wide


----------



## Exercate

That was a Copy-and-Paste from the email I received from NewEgg. Myself and some friends were hoping it was merely a typo. Mar 30, instead of May 30.
Anyway, thanks for keeping your eyes on this! I received notice from NewEgg that they may just get my Gunmetal TG case out the door today!


----------



## Hawawaa

My case just got sent out, I should get it on the 20th.


----------



## Sosuke

Hey guys, do you think it's totally pointless getting the r6 over the define c tg if I'm only going air cooling and no storage? (Just m.2)


----------



## alphadecay

Sosuke said:


> Hey guys, do you think it's totally pointless getting the r6 over the define c tg if I'm only going air cooling and no storage? (Just m.2)


If think you'll need the extra storage capacity and radiator space in the future, then maybe. But if that was the case (no pun intended) then you'd likely be building a new system entire as your needs would subsequently be changing. I think the 2 3.5'' bays and 3 2.5'' sleds in the Define C is more than enough in the future.


----------



## jpm888

Sosuke said:


> Hey guys, do you think it's totally pointless getting the r6 over the define c tg if I'm only going air cooling and no storage? (Just m.2)


I had the same conundrum. I was choosing between an R6 and a Meshify C. I only use a big air cooler and m.2+1 hdd. I was in the store for 30 mins deciding.

In the end I choose the meshify since the R6 is much more expensive and bigger. Ill never need more than 2 hdds. I actually wanted a define c tg but its simply not available anywhere in my country.


----------



## Sosuke

Thanks guys. Yeah I wont be going off air or needing extra storage. I do like the compact nature of the C and I think it will look a little cleaner then having so much empty space on r6. 

I feel like there's space in fractals line up for a air 540 killer. Anyone else? ATX, cube, TG sides, fractal styling mmmmm


----------



## utparatrooper

Sosuke said:


> Thanks guys. Yeah I wont be going off air or needing extra storage. I do like the compact nature of the C and I think it will look a little cleaner then having so much empty space on r6.
> 
> I feel like there's space in fractals line up for a air 540 killer. Anyone else? ATX, cube, TG sides, fractal styling mmmmm


I agree with you on an AIR 540 killer from Fractal. I have a R6 for my main rig (need to update my signature rigs) and an AIR 540 for my 24/7 folder. The 540 was a recent replacement for my folding rig and I think QC has gone downhill from the manufacturer as the side panels don't even align with the thumb screw holes when seated.


----------



## Qu1ckset

My R6 Blackout shipped out yesterday from Newegg, I should receive it next week at some point!


----------



## Gruff

I have had the same dilemma recently - do I get the Meshify C or go with the R6 in case I want to upgrade in the future and go back to a custom loop?

I am leaning towards the R6, but I already have a Define S so it wouldn't be a huge change aside from the PSU shroud and tempered glass. I also like the compact form of the Meshify C. 

I'll probably go back to stores and stare at them for a while before I make a choice.


----------



## Mikecdm

Got my R6 today. Mocked up rad fitment to see if a flex rad will work up top. Doesn't look like it. I did notice that I could use two different tracks for the rad up top. One closer to the side panel and the other is more centered. Now I see why people talk about the width of the gts rads. Looks like it might hit that little nub where the side panel attaches to. 

Here is my mock up.


----------



## Slaughtahouse

Finished up my Meshify C build for now. Thermals are excellent and the size is perfect. I understand some users want a slightly longer case but for me, the dimensions were ideal! Tight fit but everything from my larger C70 case, which was 60L, fits in the Meshify C. Which is 40L. Couldn't be happier 



Spoiler
























If anyone is interested in the components, follow the link to my log. Build Log Strisfordon 90 (CV90)

Edit: How do you resize embedded images? Previously the forum would allow you to adjust height and width so photos in posts were not full size until clicked upon. Put up a spoiler tag so it doesn't wreck your internet


----------



## strong island 1

finally getting somewhere with the tubing. I am just so mad because I really want to be done but the line from the bottom to top rad in front of reservoir bugs me. But im def not taking everything apart and it's tough to get hands in there with pump/res combo down there.

oh well it was a first attempt at hardlines. Have some mayhems pastel white coolant.

I also bought some acrylic to paint white and glue under the gpu to cover the tape and piece of tube. I did an ugly job down there.


----------



## Mopar63

Looking at the Meshify cases, I like air cooling so would mod the PSU shroud the provide an air ramp from the bottom front intake to the underside of the GPU.


----------



## Hawawaa

Just got the case, looks really good. I will swap out tomorrow or Saturday. Does anyone know when the Connect D1 release is?


----------



## Remko86

Yesterday I built my new rig in a Meshify C Dark TG. Overall the experience was very nice, and very doable for a first time builder. I previously had a Jonsbo UMX4 and while I really liked the look of that case and it's build quality (feels more solid than the Meshify) the Meshify was easy to work with and once put together looks very nice. Temps are also really great, with 3x ML120's in the front and 1 in the back, will do some tweaking of the PWM curve to help bring sound levels down a bit.

The only issue I had while building was with one of the standoffs, apparently I used a bit too much force trying to screw it into the case, messing up the case hole. So I'm now using one less standoff (middle one at the top) but so far no issues.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Shipping is taking forever was supposed to be Monday, then its was Friday 23, now it might even be Monday the 26... 

brutal


----------



## keith5

Got my TG gunmetal yesterday and moved my build over. It's very nice, worth the wait for sure. Only negative I can think of is the included fans are pretty lame. I love how the TG panel in this looks and how it attaches, it's such a huge improvement over the 4 thumbscrew designs.


----------



## Exercate

I too got my TG Gunmetal on Tuesday, and you're right about the fans. I've been building PC's a long time and had a nice Corsair 140 mm that replaced the factory one. The thing I didn't like about my swap was that PSU cover. It certainly would be nice if it was removable. Especially for that "Oops moment", when you realize that you need just one more SATA power cable.


----------



## cole2109

New case is done 

[email protected]
Asus Strix Z370-F
HyperX Fury 2x8GB [email protected]
Asus 1080TI [email protected] 2038MHz, 12600MHz
Fractal Design R6
Phanteks extension
......
.....
....
...
..
.


----------



## khemist

Looks nice and tidy!, here is mine with a new GPU block.


----------



## marcelaioanei

hey guys

how normal is it to find some paint scratches inside of the case like on the motherboard panel on both sides, maybe psu shroud or even some scratches on the tempered glass? is it normal and do other manufactures have it too?


----------



## keith5

No, return it. This is my 3rd fractal case all of them arrived in perfect condition.


----------



## Mikecdm

Swapped over my gear and added a second rad.


----------



## marcelaioanei

keith5 said:


> No, return it. This is my 3rd fractal case all of them arrived in perfect condition.


i find that hard to believe since i already ordered a define c and meshify c and both returned them and received new and all of them have some cosmetic damages, but only in the interior.


----------



## Remko86

marcelaioanei said:


> keith5 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, return it. This is my 3rd fractal case all of them arrived in perfect condition.
> 
> 
> 
> i find that hard to believe since i already ordered a define c and meshify c and both returned them and received new and all of them have some cosmetic damages, but only in the interior.
Click to expand...

 I got my Meshify C TG last week, could not find any cosmetic damages on it, inside or out.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

marcelaioanei said:


> i find that hard to believe since i already ordered a define c and meshify c and both returned them and received new and all of them have some cosmetic damages, but only in the interior.


I previously had a Define S and now got a R6 neither one of these came with any kind of cosmetic/physical damage.


----------



## speed_demon

marcelaioanei said:


> i find that hard to believe since i already ordered a define c and meshify c and both returned them and received new and all of them have some cosmetic damages, but only in the interior.


Received my first Fractal case last week, the define S windowed edition, and checked it over with a fine tooth comb - not a single scratch or ding anywhere.


----------



## gre0481

I just got the Meshify C with dark TG. Messing with OC so it's got the sides off  SHe'll be pretty enough for a pic soon.


----------



## marcelaioanei

dont know then, seems very strange to have seen problems on 4 cases, also my first time using fractal and my first time buying a big name case brand. 
the first define c had the hdd tray with the case screws shoved in and it was a little hard to get it out and the tray got a little bended, the front mask had bad paint finish on the margins like where the mask makes contact with the case frame, it was not as smooth like the others. 
one meshify c after pealing the glass foil there were scratches on the glass, the second meshify glass had white dots on the glass, like the glass had dust particles on it and it was painted over it. having clear glass makes it easier to see the interior scratches if there are any, having both cases i think the tinted one looks better.
the glass screws have no smooth finish, all have some tiny metal scratches but no paint scratches. 
this one is a little harder to describe, on the second define c, with the glass mounted and screwed very tight, if i looked above the case and start from the front towards the back, i could see that the left upper corner of the glass was a few mm more to the exterior compared to the right upper corner.

dont know, maybe the store where i bought them had bad batches? also checked the boxes and they were sealed so they were not returns. or my ocd is too much but after this i googled and found older post about some quality controls but on older cases, a guy said he had to return 5 cases to get a perfect one in the uk or something


----------



## Fractal Design

marcelaioanei said:


> dont know then, seems very strange to have seen problems on 4 cases, also my first time using fractal and my first time buying a big name case brand.
> the first define c had the hdd tray with the case screws shoved in and it was a little hard to get it out and the tray got a little bended, the front mask had bad paint finish on the margins like where the mask makes contact with the case frame, it was not as smooth like the others.
> one meshify c after pealing the glass foil there were scratches on the glass, the second meshify glass had white dots on the glass, like the glass had dust particles on it and it was painted over it. having clear glass makes it easier to see the interior scratches if there are any, having both cases i think the tinted one looks better.
> the glass screws have no smooth finish, all have some tiny metal scratches but no paint scratches.
> this one is a little harder to describe, on the second define c, with the glass mounted and screwed very tight, if i looked above the case and start from the front towards the back, i could see that the left upper corner of the glass was a few mm more to the exterior compared to the right upper corner.
> 
> dont know, maybe the store where i bought them had bad batches? also checked the boxes and they were sealed so they were not returns. or my ocd is too much but after this i googled and found older post about some quality controls but on older cases, a guy said he had to return 5 cases to get a perfect one in the uk or something


Any of these issues would qualify as unusual, but to see four cases in a row with such unique flaws is exceedingly odd. Do you happen to have any photos of the scratches, damage or defects on any of those cases? If there's any further detail you can share such as place of purchase, date of purchase, etc., please shoot me a pm so we can take a closer look and hopefully figure out what happened here.


----------



## strong island 1

Mikecdm said:


> Swapped over my gear and added a second rad.


looks really nice, perfect fit.


----------



## Mikecdm

strong island 1 said:


> looks really nice, perfect fit.


Thanks. I had to use the radiator mounts closest to the side panel. With the inner mounts, the rad would hit the rear i/o shroud and I couldn't push the rad far back enough. On the outer mounts, the rad would hit the plastic clip where the side panel attaches. I took the top plastic clip out since the panel stays on fine with just the bottom clip and rear thumbscrews.


----------



## strong island 1

Mikecdm said:


> Thanks. I had to use the radiator mounts closest to the side panel. With the inner mounts, the rad would hit the rear i/o shroud and I couldn't push the rad far back enough. On the outer mounts, the rad would hit the plastic clip where the side panel attaches. I took the top plastic clip out since the panel stays on fine with just the bottom clip and rear thumbscrews.



finally leak testing mine, man it was really tough filling, trying to access top of res, made it by like a mm. 

im so mad I left the black sponge in bottom of res.

that sucks, I flushed all my stuff but there are a couple black specs in the gpu block, most of it is tiny bubbles but there are some specs.

first time with hard tube and was on an extreme overclocking break for like 4 years, so im definitely happy with the result. Will definitely change some things up soon.


----------



## rossctr

Are we ever going to see the riser card for the R6? Been waiting since the beginning of January for it


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well my R6 TG Black Edition finally showed!


----------



## strong island 1

rossctr said:


> Are we ever going to see the riser card for the R6? Been waiting since the beginning of January for it


the decently priced diy cable on amazon works well, just need to make a platform for it, which is easy, I just used double sided tape, but drilling new holes would work also.



Qu1ckset said:


> Well my R6 TG Black Edition finally showed!


nice have fun. definitely a great case. So I glad I chose this over thermaltake view 71. This case is a lot classier and professional looking.


----------



## Qu1ckset

strong island 1 said:


> the decently priced diy cable on amazon works well, just need to make a platform for it, which is easy, I just used double sided tape, but drilling new holes would work also.
> 
> 
> 
> nice have fun. definitely a great case. So I glad I chose this over thermaltake view 71. This case is a lot classier and professional looking.


Ya I love the case and haven't even put anything in it yet! After playing around with fitment, it looks like I will be buying a Rad/Pump/Res to replace this EK Predator 360 I was planning on using lol


----------



## khemist

Made the R6 tidier with psu extensions and a right angled USB3.


----------



## Mikecdm

khemist said:


> Made the R6 tidier with psu extensions and a right angled USB3.


They do look a lot better. Right angled usb3 should be standard on every case.


----------



## enkur

Just completed R5 re-build using hard line tubing. This is my first attempt at hard line tubing, been doing soft loops for a while.


----------



## strong island 1

khemist;27048609[/URL said:


> [/URL]
> 
> Made the R6 tidier with psu extensions and a right angled USB3.


wow looks great. I would actually rather have a normal usb 3 connector on the mobo and use a right angle usb cable like you did. My board has a right angle connector but it is so stiff and the cable cutout is so close that it just doesnt fit right. It tries to pry the connector right off the board. Need to find one like yours with less rigid cables but not 90 degree.

actually a 90 degree connector on the board and a 90 degree cable might be perfect. 

Is yours an extension, which did you get?


----------



## khemist

Yes, it's a Cablemod right angle internal USB3 extension.


----------



## Spectrus77

My DMC-TG, little powerfull


----------



## GeneO

Nice clean rig! :thumb::thumb:


----------



## musashin

Hey folks, loving the Define C TG. So much smaller than the 690II I was using originally.

Only issue I seem to be having is the metal HDD cage/sled vibrates when the drive is seeking. I didn't have this issue with the plastic sliders in the CM case. What is a suggested way to remove this vibration? Metal-on-metal vibration is the loudest thing that comes out of this case. Many thanks.

i5-3570k 4.6GHz
H100 Extreme
AsRock Extreme6 Z77
ASUS RX480 4G Dual-OC
8GB G.Skill Sniper 1866 DDR3
LG 29" Ultrawide
Logitech G9x
Logitech G610 Brown
Logitech G430


----------



## Pittster

Did a fresh build with the R6 and wow what a nice flexible well built case. Dont think I will ever use another brand seriously impressed.

I am running the 140mm fractal fans in both bottom intakes and a corsair 140mm rear as well as the 4x140mm front fans on the radiator, has nice airflow.

Cable combs make such a difference.

i7 [email protected]
NZXT Kraken X62
MSI Z370 Gaming Pro AC
2x8GB GSKILL 16GB 3200
EVGA GTX-1080ti FTW3
Samsung 960Evo 500GB
Samsung 850 Pro 256Gb
Samsung 830 256Gb
Seagate Barracuda 2TB & 3TB
EVGA SuperNova G2 750w
Asus Xonar DX


----------



## d0mmie

Can anyone tell me where the gallery went? I can't for the life of me find it anymore (thread gallery, not personal gallery)


----------



## CptAsian

d0mmie said:


> Can anyone tell me where the gallery went? I can't for the life of me find it anymore (thread gallery, not personal gallery)


The best option I know of for this is going to the thread list in the subforum and then hitting the little icon with a paperclip to the right of the thread title. You'll get a small popup with a list of all of the attachments added to the thread.

It's much worse than we had before since there are no image previews and it has to be accessed from outside of the thread, but it's better than nothing I guess. I also doubt that list would include embedded images from an external hosting site, but I'm not sure if those sorts of images were included in the Huddler gallery.


----------



## mrazster

Hi guys !

Sorry if this has been asked already, but I have search the thread, trying to researche via google/youtube and consult the mobo manual...but no clear answer.

I'm about to do a new build using the Define R6. Initally I will use Fractal Desing S36 AIO-cooler for the cpu, but later on I plan on doing a custom waterloop.
I'm using the the Asus Maximus IX Apex and my inital plan is to use the dimm.2 expansioncard to mount 2 nvme ssd.

My consern is if I mount the S36 (or any other thin radiator) in the top of the case, will it interfer with the dimm.2 expansioncard ?
I know it'll work with most dramsticks if mount the radiator near the front of the case. But will it give enough space for the dimm.2 card ?
Does anyone have any experience with this ?


----------



## strong island 1

finally got everything up and running, really love this case, will be nice when we get the connect d1

kinda like it without the rgb, but I can turn off and change color with 1 click for everything. the thermaltake sync controller is pretty cool for $20 to sync fans with aura.


----------



## khemist

Looks great!.


----------



## dwolvin

Really nice, and I agree with you on the single color looking better (usually) than RGB.


----------



## strong island 1

thanks guys, had so much fun playing far cry 5 last night. Gpu was around 37c the entire time. But I guess the 8700k runs a little hot, at 1.3v it was around 65c, I delidded and used the bitspower ihs, was expecting a little lower, but still really happy.

came from a 1080p monitor and havent played for a couple years, so my first time playing 1440p 165hz was pretty great, g-sync is really cool tech.


----------



## Bill Owen

Nice job strong!


----------



## Dreamliner

Is there any reason to upgrade from my Define R4?

I don’t really like case windows and I air cool. I’ve got 8 HDDs. The R6 looks nice with the PSU shroud but I don’t really see any functional benefit, right?


----------



## Exercate

I upgraded from an R4. The R6 is a nice / versatile case. it is fairly easy to convert to several different configurations. The PSU shroud is non-removable, so for a person with large hands, it's a bougher to work with. You could, however, clip your power cables on first, then slide the PSU into place. Be careful with the rubber pads mounted to provide silencing under the PSU. I knocked one off - but caught it right away after sliding my PSU into place. I have a large 1,000 Watt EVGA PSU, and wasn't TOO big of a problem.

Your 8 HDD's will be a problem initially for you, because the R6 only comes with 6 HDD "sleds". I have only a pair of 6TB drives, so I mounted them in back (out of sight), which opens up the inside for better air flow.


----------



## Dreamliner

I was looking into it more and don't see a real reason to change unless I need a case for another build then I'd do a swap. It doesn't make sense to spend the money just for the R6, especially when I don't want a window and need 8 HDDs.


----------



## Scotty99

Just curious, what do you need 8 hdd's for lol? Ive only ever had one storage device in my PC, i guess if you need to archive a bunch of videos on a youtube channel or something like that?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Here is some teaser shots of my build, waiting on a couple more things before I install the rads, pump, and res!

feel free to sub my build log *[Build Log] "Purple Reign" ( Fractal Define R6 Blackout TG )*


----------



## Qu1ckset

Well went to install a 280 rad in the top of my Define R6, but with a fan installed on it, it has clearance issues making my top mobo block mosfet unusable and can't clear my ram sadly!...

will continue tmr and do a bit more measuring but for anyone with a R6 with a 240 rad fix my issue ?


----------



## lolredy

Qu1ckset said:


> Well went to install a 280 rad in the top of my Define R6, but with a fan installed on it, it has clearance issues making my top mobo block mosfet unusable and can't clear my ram sadly!...


yep, its a shame that they overlooked that out of all things...


i think you should be fine with a 240 rad. Ive seen some people put their 240 rad with fans in the top on pcpartpicker.


----------



## Qu1ckset

lolredy said:


> yep, its a shame that they overlooked that out of all things...
> 
> 
> i think you should be fine with a 240 rad. Ive seen some people put their 240 rad with fans in the top on pcpartpicker.


Im hoping it will work, I need a second rad in my build!


----------



## strong island 1

Bill Owen said:


> Nice job strong!


thanks a lot, having a lot of fun with it, every time I look over at it I smile, so glad I got back into pc's, they really are a ton of fun. Really impressed with this case. It's the first time I feel like I used up every mm, something about that feels great. When I had my case labs sth10 I never had enough to fill it properly and a bunch of other cases too. This one just felt perfect, all my other cases felt empty, I guess I never had enough money to fill them

For a month I had the thermaltake view 71 and r6 in my room and actually couldnt decide. I am so happy with my decision now, would be so mad if went with the view 71. No offense to the view 71, was a great case, just not for me, also was too big for what is necessary to cool todays parts.


----------



## Qu1ckset

For any owners of the R6 with case lighting installed, can you post pics ? im just trying to get an idea of where I want to place mine.

I know im probably going to lean more towards mounting at the front and back vertically behind the black trim of the TG side panel.. 

but I was also thinking of possibly mounting only one strip hidden between my rad and side panel to maybe give an ambient light...

Curious to see what you guys did.


----------



## khemist

Will do tomorrow, i have a 30cm darkside rigid RGB strip at the top hidden by the black trim and i'm using one of the small rgb strips that are meant to be installed in Heatkiller blocks just next to the pci slot instead of in the block.




This is how they looked in my old Caselabs case set to White and installed in the two light bars on either side.


----------



## ePlus

When is the White TG Define R6 case going to be released? Can't wait to buy it! Also, what happened to the PCIe riser cable and the front panel with Type C?


----------



## Qu1ckset

ePlus said:


> When is the White TG Define R6 case going to be released? Can't wait to buy it! Also, what happened to the PCIe riser cable and the front panel with Type C?


May 5 for the White TG R6 according to newegg , not sure about the rest.


----------



## Qu1ckset

khemist said:


> Will do tomorrow, i have a 30cm darkside rigid RGB strip at the top hidden by the black trim and i'm using one of the small rgb strips that are meant to be installed in Heatkiller blocks just next to the pci slot instead of in the block.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is how they looked in my old Caselabs case set to White and installed in the two light bars on either side.


Looks really good, think I might just go with darkside LEDs


----------



## Gruff

I wonder what the reason behind the delay for the white TG R6 is.

Paint issues is what I'm thinking


----------



## Qu1ckset

Gruff said:


> I wonder what the reason behind the delay for the white TG R6 is.
> 
> Paint issues is what I'm thinking


there was a delay on the black edition and gunmetal as well, maybe the thought the sale number would be bigger for gunmetal and black so they decided to push back the manufacturing for the white


----------



## CoolGuy90

Can one of you guys with an R6 measure the distance in inches between the front and rear feet?

Thanks!


----------



## stephenmarr

@CoolGuy90 

Front to Back 14 3/4 inches {375mm} 
Left to Right 7 1/2 inches {190mm}


----------



## gusfraba

*advice with case*

Hi guys i m new here .i m going to build a pc and i m in love with fractal cases. but in some test video i saw that the best airflow case is the silverstone rl06. i m in the dilemma ,fractal design c or s and the silverstone . sorry for my english  or if you have a better option can tell me


----------



## dwolvin

Go with what you like the look of- they are both good!


----------



## Qu1ckset

dwolvin said:


> Go with what you like the look of- they are both good!


+1 This


----------



## fakeblood

Always wanted to do a mad air cooled build, so what better case to do it in than the Meshify. Still a WIP.

Just need to get a chromax af15 and D15 covers. Also wanting to replace the vardars with black eloops.

I have to say the d15 and raijintek morpheus 2 are not far behind the full loop I had in here before.


----------



## Scotty99

That'll look sweet once you get the rest of the parts.

Im still at heart a air cooling guy too but kraken g12+cheap 120 aio is a hard combo to beat, 47c max temps.


----------



## TheShadow

Doesn't anyone know an ETA on the Flex VRC-25? I thought they said April-May. My case is on the way and I was hoping to not wait for the cable since I waited to get the case until now.


----------



## khemist




----------



## Bill Owen

Very clean khemist! Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Qu1ckset

khemist said:


>


Is all the lighting just from your motherboard ?


----------



## NewType88

fakeblood said:


> Always wanted to do a mad air cooled build, so what better case to do it in than the Meshify. Still a WIP.
> 
> Just need to get a chromax af15 and D15 covers. Also wanting to replace the vardars with black eloops.
> 
> I have to say the d15 and raijintek morpheus 2 are not far behind the full loop I had in here before.



We have a similar build, but your gpu orientation is different. What are your temps on what cpu/gpu ?


----------



## gypsygib

Qu1ckset said:


> Is all the lighting just from your motherboard ?



So nice. You sir have my respect.

What custom parts are you using and motherboard? I assuming it's the Define C window or TG.


----------



## fakeblood

NewType88 said:


> We have a similar build, but your gpu orientation is different. What are your temps on what cpu/gpu ?


I run all fans sub 1000rpm

6700k @ stock idles 30c load is high 60s
GTX1080 @ stock idles 30c load low 60s


----------



## khemist

Qu1ckset said:


> Is all the lighting just from your motherboard ?


No, there is a 30cm Darkside strip at the top and a small strip under the GPU.



gypsygib said:


> So nice. You sir have my respect.
> 
> What custom parts are you using and motherboard? I assuming it's the Define C window or TG.


If that is meant for me, it's the define r6 and Gigabyte Z270X designare, using XSPC RX360 v3, Bitspower Z-Multi 250mm water tank and Monsoon MMRS D5 pump top with heatkiller blocks.


----------



## Qu1ckset

khemist said:


> No, there is a 30cm Darkside strip at the top and a small strip under the GPU.


can you post pics of where the LED them selves are posted I really like how subtle your lighting looks!


----------



## khemist

Yes, after work today.


----------



## khemist

Qu1ckset said:


> can you post pics of where the LED them selves are posted I really like how subtle your lighting looks!









There you go.


----------



## Qu1ckset

khemist said:


> There you go.


Thanks Man!


----------



## DeaDLocK

New Define R6 arriving today. Went for the blackout TG model and picked up new direct from Amazon for £98.08 thanks to amazon assistant discount and some Quidco cashback I had in Amazon vouchers.


----------



## Caveat

Anyone can tell me if the Thermaltake Riser fits with the holes in the R6?


----------



## Panzerfury

Just made a build in a Define R6. Very nice case.


----------



## DeaDLocK

Panzerfury said:


> Just made a build in a Define R6. Very nice case.


Very nice and clean. 

Mine will be specs in sig, no custom loops for me. But looking forward to a nice spacious and clean system.

EDIT: Case has arrived and son is wanting to play with it already!!


----------



## stephenmarr

Just finished my build
Parts list








Thats a Gunmetal case


----------



## Wovermars1996

So my Define R5 has a few scratches in some places, just wondering if regular Matt Black spray paint would be fine for some touch ups.


----------



## NGMK

Hey there anyone. I'm building a home Nas and Plex Server using the R6. Although the r6 could handle up to 11 HDD only 6 comes included with the case. The HHD Trays for R6 are not available for sale. Is anyone here have some of these trays and are willing to sell them? Thanks


----------



## stephenmarr

NGMK said:


> Hey there anyone. I'm building a home Nas and Plex Server using the R6. Although the r6 could handle up to 11 HDD only 6 comes included with the case. The HHD Trays for R6 are not available for sale. Is anyone here have some of these trays and are willing to sell them? Thanks


I have a few but im in Ireland shipping would be costly


----------



## dwolvin

I have the HD racks from a Define XL, would they work?


----------



## khemist

No they are different, another person tried to buy mine on another forum but it was too late as i had already thrown them away because i knew i wouldn't use them.


----------



## dwolvin

bummer- I do have a box of those cages from various HAF's and the Define... I really should just recycle them all.


----------



## GraveNoX

We need (I do) a completely reversed Define R5/R6 with side panel on the right!


----------



## arcadeforest

I've got a question and I hope an R6 owner may have the answer. I did a Google search and unless I totally missed it I could not find an answer. First question is what are the dimensions of the adjustable door / hard drive cage cover (the flat metal plate that can be placed at the front by the tempered glass or the back of the case depending on if you are using the hard drive bays or not). Second question, when that plate is in the back position approximately how much of the front edge is covered when using two 140 mm fans? 

I am asking these questions because I am looking to move from my Define-C Window (Plexiglas version) to the R6. I'm an air cooling guy that loves his Noctua D15s. With that said using the Noctua will leave a little dead space and I have a few ideas of what I can do there and the approximate measurements would be helpful. Thanks again.


----------



## Bill Owen

Wovermars1996 said:


> So my Define R5 has a few scratches in some places, just wondering if regular Matt Black spray paint would be fine for some touch ups.


I've used FLAT Black on my Fractal cases, I'll spray it onto cardboard, then dab with a small detail brush, as shown in this video


----------



## Qu1ckset

Here are some quick shots of my build in my Define R6, its not finished yet, but figured id share!


----------



## Scotty99

Mmm grape drank.


----------



## Phantomas 007

I thinks it's time to replace the Corsair C70 Vengeance. I'm thinking the Fractal Design Define R6.Do you think it's nice choice ?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Man the Define R6 is such a hard case to light up while hiding the LED's, and its even hard trying to mount a LED with a full system built! Probably going to copy khemist idea, and mount another small strip of LED's under the videocard!


----------



## Bill Owen

Carlos Fractal design Nano S with Vertical GPU looks good!


----------



## khemist

Qu1ckset said:


> Man the Define R6 is such a hard case to light up while hiding the LED's, and its even hard trying to mount a LED with a full system built! Probably going to copy khemist idea, and mount another small strip of LED's under the videocard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's easier without having a top rad.


----------



## Jeffaffa

What kind of flow/temp sensor is that lighting up ?


----------



## khemist

Barrow FBFT02, just plugs into a fan header so it looks pretty tidy.


----------



## dwolvin

Huh- thanks for that, it looks great!


----------



## Caveat

Qu1ckset said:


> Man the Define R6 is such a hard case to light up while hiding the LED's, and its even hard trying to mount a LED with a full system built! Probably going to copy khemist idea, and mount another small strip of LED's under the videocard!


i would not light it more. This looks freaking amazing, buddy 😱


----------



## Qu1ckset

Caveat said:


> i would not light it more. This looks freaking amazing, buddy 😱


should see it in person, pics don't do it justice!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Anyone know if the NZXT puck will work on the front on the R6?


----------



## Ownedj00

Qu1ckset said:


> Anyone know if the NZXT puck will work on the front on the R6?


The front of the R6 is plastic and the puck is a magnet so i would say NO it will not work.


----------



## Juuhuu

Bought Fractal Focus G today and wanted to move bottom front fan in the back but can't since case holes in the back are too big for the screw. I need to buy extra fan right, or is it somehow possible to move that one in front back?
How should the holes of the fan I might buy need to look like? Since case holes are so big.. do I need to buy screws also.. do they come with fan?


----------



## Exercate

The right sized washer may just do the trick. Be careful that the washer doesn't introduce a vibration / rattling noise for you.


----------



## Skylinestar

Any R5 user having problem with the white LED / power indicator? Mine's intermittent, sometimes dim, sometimes dead. Is this a common issue?
https://i.imgur.com/AyPgeTU.mp4


----------



## TomatoSupra

Just finished my new R6 Build


----------



## Remko86

TomatoSupra said:


> Just finished my new R6 Build


That's freaking amazing looking.


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Skylinestar said:


> Any R5 user having problem with the white LED / power indicator? Mine's intermittent, sometimes dim, sometimes dead. Is this a common issue?
> https://i.imgur.com/AyPgeTU.mp4


Are you sure it's connected to the correct header, seems it may be connected to the HDD LED header. It will flash like that when in use. If not, it's knackered, contact Fractal and they'll most likely send you a new one for free.


----------



## Skylinestar

VulgarDisplay88 said:


> Are you sure it's connected to the correct header, seems it may be connected to the HDD LED header. It will flash like that when in use. If not, it's knackered, contact Fractal and they'll most likely send you a new one for free.


It's connected to the correct header. That video shows the white LED totally dead.
Anyway, I've sent a tech request to Fractal. I don't think I'll get any replacement part for free as the case is almost 2 years old (warranty probably ended).


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

Skylinestar said:


> VulgarDisplay88 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure it's connected to the correct header, seems it may be connected to the HDD LED header. It will flash like that when in use. If not, it's knackered, contact Fractal and they'll most likely send you a new one for free.
> 
> 
> 
> It's connected to the correct header. That video shows the white LED totally dead.
> Anyway, I've sent a tech request to Fractal. I don't think I'll get any replacement part for free as the case is almost 2 years old (warranty probably ended).
Click to expand...

Ah I get it now, was obviously having a dumb moment. Just looked on the Fractal spares site and the part you need isn't in stock so you couldn't even go that route. I've had replacement parts sent for free within 2 years of purchase so you may be lucky.


----------



## Caveat

My Fractal Design Define R6

Gigabyte z270x Gaming 7
Intel i7-7700k cooled by NZXT Kraken x62
GEIL GWW48GB3000C15DC 16GB DDR4
Asus ROG Strix-GTX1070 Gaming
Asus Xonar Phoebus Solo
Seasonic Prime Ultra Gold 750W ATX
Samsung 970 Evo 500gb
A few other staorages












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jpm888

Caveat said:


> My Fractal Design Define R6
> 
> Gigabyte z270x Gaming 7
> Intel i7-7700k cooled by NZXT Kraken x62
> GEIL GWW48GB3000C15DC 16GB DDR4
> Asus ROG Strix-GTX1070 Gaming
> Asus Xonar Phoebus Solo
> Seasonic Prime Ultra Gold 750W ATX
> Samsung 970 Evo 500gb
> A few other staorages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nice build. How are your gpu temps?


----------



## Caveat

jpm888 said:


> Nice build. How are your gpu temps?




Haven’t tested it on a benchmark. But playing Guild Wars 2 with the fans set on 30% on 35 Celcius, the temps won’t go higher than 45 Celcius. Roomtemp atm is 21.5 Celcius


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Fractal Design

Ownedj00 said:


> The front of the R6 is plastic and the puck is a magnet so i would say NO it will not work.


The front cover's aluminum, not plastic, but either way you're correct in that magnets aren't going to stick to it. The steel side panels would work though.


----------



## Fractal Design

Juuhuu said:


> Bought Fractal Focus G today and wanted to move bottom front fan in the back but can't since case holes in the back are too big for the screw. I need to buy extra fan right, or is it somehow possible to move that one in front back?
> How should the holes of the fan I might buy need to look like? Since case holes are so big.. do I need to buy screws also.. do they come with fan?


You don't necessarily need to buy a new fan, but the front screws in the Focus are different from your typical case fan screw. If you don't happen to have any on hand from previous builds or whatnot, you can pick up a bag for about $4 on Amazon by searching "case fan screws."


----------



## Ownedj00

Fractal Design said:


> The front cover's aluminum, not plastic, but either way you're correct in that magnets aren't going to stick to it. The steel side panels would work though.



Thanks for that. i have a meshify and just thought the front was plastic like mine.


----------



## trail2k2

wondering if someone can help me out? i purchased two R6 cases when they were released. one case is being used as my home server and the other as my personal computer. situation is that i used all my hdd trays for the server (11 hdd's) so i only have one tray left in my personal computer. fractal doesn't have them for sale and i don't want to buy another case just for the trays. anyone here willing to part with a few?


----------



## Abula

@Fractal Design Rep, i think you guys should consider selling hdd caddies for R6 owners, im also in the same spot as trail2k2, i need 4 more also to complete my build.


----------



## Caveat

Abula said:


> @Fractal Design Rep, i think you guys should consider selling hdd caddies for R6 owners, im also in the same spot as trail2k2, i need 4 more also to complete my build.




Ye. But depends where you ppl are from. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Abula

Caveat said:


> Ye. But depends where you ppl are from.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 First let me thank you for taking the time and offering, im going to let trail2k2 approach you first since he ask before me. In case it doesn't work out, in my case it would be shipped to Miami, Florida.


----------



## Caveat

Ye i think someone closer towards you 
is better. I am in the Netherlands


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## trail2k2

I'm sorry I haven't replied, been working. I'm in Texas. I've been searching everywhere for the trays. Looking for damaged cases just for the trays, no luck though.


----------



## Qu1ckset

trail2k2 said:


> I'm sorry I haven't replied, been working. I'm in Texas. I've been searching everywhere for the trays. Looking for damaged cases just for the trays, no luck though.


how much you willing to pay for the trays?


----------



## trail2k2

Qu1ckset said:


> how much you willing to pay for the trays?


just sent you a PM, i haven't read the rules and don't know if we are allowed to talk about sales here


----------



## LazarusIV

@Fractal Design Any chance of a mATX Define Mini R6? I heard someone ask about it when the Define R6 was announced but haven't seen anything since....


----------



## Exercate

Not only that, but Fractal has also announced that the two R6 accessories 'Flex VRC-25' and the 'Connect D1' were supposed to be available soon after the shipping of the R6. I haven't seen either of those. Maybe I missed that? In other words - Don't hold your breath. It'll all come in due time, just don't be impatient.


----------



## TheShadow

Which vertical card mount did you use?



Caveat said:


> My Fractal Design Define R6
> 
> Gigabyte z270x Gaming 7
> Intel i7-7700k cooled by NZXT Kraken x62
> GEIL GWW48GB3000C15DC 16GB DDR4
> Asus ROG Strix-GTX1070 Gaming
> Asus Xonar Phoebus Solo
> Seasonic Prime Ultra Gold 750W ATX
> Samsung 970 Evo 500gb
> A few other staorages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## midiamp

Hi all, I just bought Define Nano S and absolutely loving the case. Currently I'm using MasterLiquid 120 Lite AIO to cool my 2700X, which I upgrade from 1700X. There's this funny temperature jumps the 2700X does which bothers me. On my old 1700X, the 120 Lite works well, maintaining temp on my daily use like a champ, with the highest temp recorded is at 60 degrees C. With the 2700X, the temp can go as high as 70 degrees C (for a fraction of a second). Granted, the 120 Lite isn't the best 120 AIO in the market with its thin profile rad, which was a necessity from my old case which was the Cougar QBX.

I'm pondering to upgrade my AIO to Corsair H80i V2 or go dual rad with H110/115, however I wonder how the dual rad will affect my GPU thermal. I'm using 1080Ti FE which sits quite close the radiator if I go for a dual rad setup on this case. Will my GPU temp increases if I'm using a dual rad? Currently I placed my rad on intake, upper front position, with the bottom fan blowing air directly to the GPU. 

My case build is exactly like this. Except I use the moduvent top since I have this weird vibration sensitivity.


----------



## guzzoline

Hey all!

Ordered a Define R6 (TG) last week, and it just got in. I was about to build it in when I noticed the steel side panel rattles with even the slightest of touch. I wanted to see if this is normal before I build in it, or if I should go for a replacement.

Video to show what I mean:





Anyone else's case like this too?


----------



## VulgarDisplay88

guzzoline said:


> Hey all!
> 
> Ordered a Define R6 (TG) last week, and it just got in. I was about to build it in when I noticed the steel side panel rattles with even the slightest of touch. I wanted to see if this is normal before I build in it, or if I should go for a replacement.
> 
> Video to show what I mean:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else's case like this too?


Mine doesn't do that at all.


----------



## strong island 1

Exercate said:


> Not only that, but Fractal has also announced that the two R6 accessories 'Flex VRC-25' and the 'Connect D1' were supposed to be available soon after the shipping of the R6. I haven't seen either of those. Maybe I missed that? In other words - Don't hold your breath. It'll all come in due time, just don't be impatient.


it looks like the gpu brkt is available but I cant believe connect d1 still nowhere to be found. The amazon diy cable has held up really nice, I was even a little rough with it, pulling the gpu out a couple times. 

https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Flex-VRC-25

does anyone know if connect d1 is available. I really want to switch to fractal gpu cable but I guess seems dumb if diy cable is working. Been doing a ton of gaming and no trouble with it


----------



## JackCY

guzzoline said:


> Hey all!
> 
> Ordered a Define R6 (TG) last week, and it just got in. I was about to build it in when I noticed the steel side panel rattles with even the slightest of touch. I wanted to see if this is normal before I build in it, or if I should go for a replacement.
> 
> Video to show what I mean:
> https://youtu.be/rX2yAEFHnvA
> 
> Anyone else's case like this too?


No screws on back to tighten it in? I don't remember how R6 has the panels attached now but on older cases with screws you hook it in tight and screw it, done it won't move at all. These newer fancier panel attachments have their drawbacks.


----------



## lb_felipe

Where is Connect D1, @Fractal Design?


----------



## PowerSlide

where is r6 gunmetal? been waiting for ages now


----------



## HZCH

midiamp said:


> Hi all, I just bought Define Nano S and absolutely loving the case. Currently I'm using MasterLiquid 120 Lite AIO to cool my 2700X, which I upgrade from 1700X. There's this funny temperature jumps the 2700X does which bothers me. On my old 1700X, the 120 Lite works well, maintaining temp on my daily use like a champ, with the highest temp recorded is at 60 degrees C. With the 2700X, the temp can go as high as 70 degrees C (for a fraction of a second). Granted, the 120 Lite isn't the best 120 AIO in the market with its thin profile rad, which was a necessity from my old case which was the Cougar QBX.
> 
> I'm pondering to upgrade my AIO to Corsair H80i V2 or go dual rad with H110/115, however I wonder how the dual rad will affect my GPU thermal. I'm using 1080Ti FE which sits quite close the radiator if I go for a dual rad setup on this case. Will my GPU temp increases if I'm using a dual rad? Currently I placed my rad on intake, upper front position, with the bottom fan blowing air directly to the GPU.
> 
> My case build is exactly like this. Except I use the moduvent top since I have this weird vibration sensitivity.


Hi, why not connsidering some aircooling for your CPU, like a NH-D15S or something more or less similar (from Thermalright or BeQuiet)? You'd get around the same temps for a quieter noise level... if they fit the Nano S. Maybe even your vibration issue might be gone?

Envoyé de mon SM-G930F en utilisant Tapatalk


----------



## Bi5h0p

I sell my Define mini C (skylake build) and right now completed itx ryzen build (in suppresor f1).
I was hoping to see redesign of Nano S at computex ... but now .. I don't know, maybe stay with F1 until Fractal come with new Nano.


----------



## khemist

Added a 240 in the roof of the R6.


----------



## greentag

LazarusIV said:


> @Fractal Design Any chance of a mATX Define Mini R6? I heard someone ask about it when the Define R6 was announced but haven't seen anything since....


Wondering this as well. If there's not even a hint, my money goes to the new Lian Li PC-O11 Air that's supposed to come out soon.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Welp, I ended up keeping the build stagnant for a few months and I've just now gotten a bit of spare time to build this again. I got tired of waiting for fractal to release their riser card so I got a liheat one off of ebay. As it so happens, they're based in Hong Kong so I got it really quick! Anyways, I rearranged the components in there a little and have come up with this loop order. 

https://i.imgur.com/Jx45FN8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nrsm7I7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/390pgcb.jpg

Can't wait to start bending!


----------



## Fractal Design

Sorry for the silent treatment; I just got back from vacation and it looks like I've got some catching up to do.

I know the wait's been a bit crazy but the Flex VRC is finally on store shelves: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812598001

The Connect D1 is hot on its heels and should make an appearance within the next day or two.
@Abula I totally agree that we should make the HDD trays available separately, and though I can't say much more at the moment I will certainly be pushing for it.
@guzzoline the panel definitely shouldn't be rattling like that. I can't even venture to guess offhand as to what could be causing it, but if you could get in touch with us via support.fractal-design.com I'm sure we can figure it out and find a solution.
@PowerSlide they've been around a while now. Which region are you located in, and are you looking for the solid or TG version of the R6 Gunmetal?


----------



## khemist

Ordered the riser cable, will post a pic when installed.


----------



## PowerSlide

@Fractal Design

im from Malaysia, black R6 TG is here months ago but i want R6 gunmetal TG version


----------



## BucketInABucket

Damn, just ordered the li-heat riser!



Fractal Design said:


> Sorry for the silent treatment; I just got back from vacation and it looks like I've got some catching up to do.
> 
> I know the wait's been a bit crazy but the Flex VRC is finally on store shelves: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812598001


----------



## pony-tail

@Fractal Design
I am in Australia .
I have a Define S Nano ( 2 steel doors no window ) and a Define R6 black also windowless .
The reason I bought the R6 instead of anything else was the 5.25 bay I use it for a card reader ( I do a lot of Photography and use Linux and gimp to process my images ) - the camera software is Mac or Windows only so I just pull out the card and upload via a reader .
So please at least keep one model with a 5.25.
Also can we get Drive sleds and SSD sleds for sale , please .
Wishful thinking but I would like to see a moduvent in the nano similar to the R6 one . ( I have a 240mm AIO in the top of my nano - I get dust on the VRM heatsink all the time .
Thanks


----------



## Fractal Design

pony-tail said:


> @Fractal Design
> I am in Australia .
> I have a Define S Nano ( 2 steel doors no window ) and a Define R6 black also windowless .
> The reason I bought the R6 instead of anything else was the 5.25 bay I use it for a card reader ( I do a lot of Photography and use Linux and gimp to process my images ) - the camera software is Mac or Windows only so I just pull out the card and upload via a reader .
> So please at least keep one model with a 5.25.
> Also can we get Drive sleds and SSD sleds for sale , please .
> Wishful thinking but I would like to see a moduvent in the nano similar to the R6 one . ( I have a 240mm AIO in the top of my nano - I get dust on the VRM heatsink all the time .
> Thanks


I'm sure 5.25 bays will stick around for a while longer since they're still quite commonly requested in the professional sector. I have card readers installed in several machines myself, though I will say I've been using them less and less simply because I've found that a decent external USB 3.0 will generally be much, much faster and more reliable than the best 5.25" bay readers. Despite there being plenty of units with USB 3.0 ports on the front, I personally haven't ever come across a bay style reader than uses faster than USB 2.0 for the actual card reader functionality. Haven't shopped for one recently, but that's been my experience in the past.

Can't say if or when a new Define Nano might come along, but I think it's a safe bet that top ModuVents will have some sort of option for dust filtration from now on.


----------



## Fractal Design

PowerSlide said:


> @Fractal Design
> 
> im from Malaysia, black R6 TG is here months ago but i want R6 gunmetal TG version


Hmm... Being at the North American office I'm not too familiar with sales outlets in the APAC region, but I know there are quite a lot of them so surely someone in your area will have some available for order, if not now then soon. I would suggest messaging our world sales team via the contacts page on our website (Type: Sales Inquiry - World) to see if someone more familiar with sales channels in your region can help track one down for you: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/contact-us


----------



## d0mmie

I think a lot would like to see a Nano S R2 with the top filtration and side panels pop-on, just like the Define R6 is made.


----------



## Captcha

Hello guys

I think I'm in da club. Here are WIP pictures. This is my first PC build. Really love this small Meshify case, it looks great and it has a small footprint like I want and need for my workstation.

I don't have the bucks for a complete water cooling system so I go for now with a Alphacool Eisbear for the 8700k I delied. I do all sleeving myself with MDPC-X. I had to modify some case parts, CPU block, rams and fans. Otherwise I couldn't mount the radiator on top. I also sleeved all fans and the fp cables. More to come, I'll do maybe a small build log thread too or post the stuff here.


Part list:
Fractal Design Meshify C Mini
Evga z370 mATX
Intel 8700K (delied with der8auer delid tool)
NVIDIA 1080 TI
Noiseblocker NB eLoop 120mm Fans 5x
Corsair HX850i
Corsair 16GB DDR4 RGB 3000Mhz
Samsung EVO M.2 500GB
Samsung EVO 1TB SSD
MDPC-X wires and sleeve
Alphacool Eisbear CPU Block
Alphacool 240mm Radiator
EKWB fittings, tubes and fluid.


----------



## JennyBeans

@Fractal Design I was going to get the fractal R6 white windowed was it discontinued ? can't find it anywhere for sale in Canada , if it doesn't the non window is available if i got that route could I buy a windowed side panel for it?


----------



## Fractal Design

JennyBeans said:


> @Fractal Design I was going to get the fractal R6 white windowed was it discontinued ? can't find it anywhere for sale in Canada , if it doesn't the non window is available if i got that route could I buy a windowed side panel for it?


The R6 White TG is one of the newest arrivals in one of our most popular case lines so it'll be a while before it's ready to retire. Not all stores have stock at the moment but I can see Newegg.ca currently has it: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352082


----------



## JennyBeans

Fractal Design said:


> The R6 White TG is one of the newest arrivals in one of our most popular case lines so it'll be a while before it's ready to retire. Not all stores have stock at the moment but I can see Newegg.ca currently has it: https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352082



OH!!! they're back in stock for the longest time they where out ... thank god


----------



## khemist

Riser cable arrived, not installed yet.


----------



## khemist

Installed.


----------



## Chargeit

Is there anyway to retro fit a Fractal Design R5 blackout with a tempered glass side? As in can you buy just the TG side panel and if so would it fit?


----------



## BucketInABucket

Chargeit said:


> Is there anyway to retro fit a Fractal Design R5 blackout with a tempered glass side? As in can you buy just the TG side panel and if so would it fit?


The R6 panel is a lot longer than the R5 so no it won't fit.


----------



## Chargeit

BucketInABucket said:


> The R6 panel is a lot longer than the R5 so no it won't fit.


Ah thanks. Was hoping I could get a TG panel without having to pull the whole system apart.


----------



## BucketInABucket

Chargeit said:


> Ah thanks. Was hoping I could get a TG panel without having to pull the whole system apart.


I know people have had success with commissioning a TG panel from local shops. Maybe you can try that?


----------



## Chargeit

BucketInABucket said:


> I know people have had success with commissioning a TG panel from local shops. Maybe you can try that?


Thanks for the suggestion. I think I'll just pick up a new case that comes with TG sooner or later.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Tore down my Phanteks P400S build because the airflow was garbage, and invested in a Meshify C White. Couldn't be happier with the temps! It's a no-brainer, but this case is incredibly good for air cooling.

The P400S seems like it was designed for watercooling, since it can't accommodate any of the super large air coolers, and the front panel is garbage for airflow. The Meshify, on the other hand, let me upgrade to an R1!


----------



## Xike

Hey all. I'm putting together a mATX TR custom loop build and currently have a meshify c mini that I'll be using for it. I'm running into an issue with top radiator clearance and my ram. I already own some teamgroup dark pro sticks which measure about 45mm tall (the case's stated max clearance on the spec sheet is 40mm). 

Since the overlap is fairly small all things considered, I'm trying to figure out if there is some way I can make it work without removing the heat spreaders from the sticks. I am open to doing a more involved case mod if necessary. Maybe I can drill into the recess for the top filter to mount the radiator a little higher up? Not really sure myself. Apologies in advance if this isn't the right spot for this.


----------



## Captcha

Xike said:


> Hey all. I'm putting together a mATX TR custom loop build and currently have a meshify c mini that I'll be using for it. I'm running into an issue with top radiator clearance and my ram. I already own some teamgroup dark pro sticks which measure about 45mm tall (the case's stated max clearance on the spec sheet is 40mm).
> 
> Since the overlap is fairly small all things considered, I'm trying to figure out if there is some way I can make it work without removing the heat spreaders from the sticks. I am open to doing a more involved case mod if necessary. Maybe I can drill into the recess for the top filter to mount the radiator a little higher up? Not really sure myself. Apologies in advance if this isn't the right spot for this.


Hi

I had to solve the same problem. The height of the Ram was 8mm to big to mount the rad and fans on top. So I modified the Noiseblocker eloop fans. I had to cut one corner on both fans.


----------



## andrewmp6

Where can i get the usb type c front I/O for the define r6 ?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

andrewmp6 said:


> Where can i get the usb type c front I/O for the define r6 ?


Newegg, or Fractal Design's parts site in Germany.


----------



## andrewmp6

Kalm_Traveler said:


> Newegg, or Fractal Design's parts site in Germany.


Newegg is out of stock and can't find it on fractals site unless im blind.


----------



## dwolvin

PriestOfSin said:


> Tore down my Phanteks P400S build because the airflow was garbage, and invested in a Meshify C White. Couldn't be happier with the temps! It's a no-brainer, but this case is incredibly good for air cooling.
> 
> The P400S seems like it was designed for watercooling, since it can't accommodate any of the super large air coolers, and the front panel is garbage for airflow. The Meshify, on the other hand, let me upgrade to an R1!


Really good looking build! What's the CPU heatsink?


----------



## Kalm_Traveler

andrewmp6 said:


> Kalm_Traveler said:
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg, or Fractal Design's parts site in Germany.
> 
> 
> 
> Newegg is out of stock and can't find it on fractals site unless im blind.
Click to expand...

Newegg had some a few days ago, i ordered from them... 

Fractals parts shop is out of stock but you would see it on this page:
https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R6


----------



## PriestOfSin

dwolvin said:


> Really good looking build! What's the CPU heatsink?


the Cryorig R1 Universal. Really happy with it, especially since I can use all four of my ram slots. Keeps my 2700X super cool.


----------



## rawsh

116% 120% 121%

http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/8408061


----------



## fakeblood

Swapped out the fans for Chromax's for a nice stealth look.


----------



## khemist

Looks really great, i don't think air cooling can look much better.

What gpu cooler are you using?.


----------



## Fractal Design

The Connect D1 USB-C upgrade is back in stock at Newegg for anyone who's still looking: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811994063


----------



## fakeblood

khemist said:


> Looks really great, i don't think air cooling can look much better.
> 
> What gpu cooler are you using?.


It's a Raijintek Morpheus II. Keeps my 1080 @ 60c while gaming with the fans at around 1000 rpm


----------



## atomicus

fakeblood said:


> It's a Raijintek Morpheus II. Keeps my 1080 @ 60c while gaming with the fans at around 1000 rpm



Are those Noctua IndustrialPPC fans on the Morpheus? How are the noise levels?

Is it the Cooler Master GPU bracket you've used there? Did you try the card in its stock horizontal config (with the Morpheus) to see how it compares to the vertical orientation?


----------



## 161029

Looks more like Chromax fans. iPPC fans are brown on the corners.

There's adequate spacing between the GPU fans and the side panel so there shouldn't be much impact, if any at all. More of an aesthetic choice at this point.


----------



## fakeblood

atomicus said:


> Are those Noctua IndustrialPPC fans on the Morpheus? How are the noise levels?
> 
> Is it the Cooler Master GPU bracket you've used there? Did you try the card in its stock horizontal config (with the Morpheus) to see how it compares to the vertical orientation?


They are Chromaxs. Noise level..they are dead quiet, much quieter than the EK Vardars I had on it before.

It is indeed the coolermaster bracket. Didnt bother trying horizontal as itd likely sag and ruin the aesthetics I was after.


----------



## Qu1ckset

fakeblood said:


> Swapped out the fans for Chromax's for a nice stealth look.


Man thats the sexiest aircooler ive seen to date!


----------



## Hrafn42

*Define Mini C cable lengths?*

Hi. I'm looking at a new build based around a Define Mini C, and thought I should ask a precautionary question about typical cable lengths (so that I'm not caught out with cables that don't reach), particularly:

PSU:
* to graphics card (my current case is shroudless, so this hasn't previously been an issue)?
* to SSD mounts on the back of motherboard?
SATA (from motherboard):
* to drive cage?
* to SSD mounts on the back of motherboard?

Also, how much clearance is there between the drives in the drive cage and the side-panel?

Any other idiosyncrasies that I should be aware of?


----------



## JennyBeans

Finally!!!!!! I"m now one of you <3


----------



## fakeblood

Qu1ckset said:


> fakeblood said:
> 
> 
> 
> Swapped out the fans for Chromax's for a nice stealth look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man thats the sexiest aircooler ive seen to date!
Click to expand...

Yeah the chromax parts really transform it.


----------



## BucketInABucket

JennyBeans said:


> Finally!!!!!! I"m now one of you <3


ONE OF US!

ONE OF US!

ONE OF US!


----------



## d0mmie

fakeblood said:


> Swapped out the fans for Chromax's for a nice stealth look.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler


I like this! I'm actually tempted to try something like that the next time I build a new PC. Custom water cooling is awesome, although it can be very stressful at times (and very expensive). I always loved Noctua air coolers as well


----------



## arcadeforest

Yes, I absolutely love Noctua and the NH D15s. The Chromax line really brings these to the next level.


----------



## arcadeforest

fakeblood - what GPU are you using, did you just remove the stock shield / fans and install the Noctuas? Love the look of it. 

Edit - just looked a page back and found out GPU you are using. Looks great with those fans attached.


----------



## JennyBeans

BucketInABucket said:


> ONE OF US!
> 
> ONE OF US!
> 
> ONE OF US!



<3 Its so pretty


----------



## BucketInABucket

JennyBeans said:


> <3 Its so pretty


I went the opposite way from you and got the blackout version. The thing is built like a tank!

Sadly, I broke my glass panel like a klutz :c


----------



## pony-tail

BucketInABucket said:


> I went the opposite way from you and got the blackout version. The thing is built like a tank!
> 
> Sadly, I broke my glass panel like a klutz :c


I got the black one with white trim , plain door , no tempered glass to break.
I got the one without windows because I use Noctua Fans - Just love those beige and brown fans - but not in a windowed case .


----------



## JennyBeans

BucketInABucket said:


> I went the opposite way from you and got the blackout version. The thing is built like a tank!
> 
> Sadly, I broke my glass panel like a klutz :c



you're not supposed to break it, silly!! >.<




question I wanna put fans on the top .. would the solid top cover have to come off ? .I don't wanna choke my fans I have 2 corsair ones i can dump on top


----------



## BucketInABucket

JennyBeans said:


> you're not supposed to break it, silly!! >.<


I knowww, I dropped it by accident. I hope fractal let me get a replacement...



JennyBeans said:


> question I wanna put fans on the top .. would the solid top cover have to come off ? .I don't wanna choke my fans I have 2 corsair ones i can dump on top


The top cover is made of two pieces that are attached together, a solid piece and a dust filter. If you use a flathead or something you should be able to pry it apart and put just the dust filter in the top!

https://www.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/FractalDesign_R6_12-1000x563.jpg


----------



## JennyBeans

BucketInABucket said:


> I knowww, I dropped it by accident. I hope fractal let me get a replacement...
> 
> 
> The top cover is made of two pieces that are attached together, a solid piece and a dust filter. If you use a flathead or something you should be able to pry it apart and put just the dust filter in the top!
> 
> https://www.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/FractalDesign_R6_12-1000x563.jpg



so i have to take the top cover off ... dang... was hoping i wouldn't have to


----------



## BucketInABucket

JennyBeans said:


> so i have to take the top cover off ... dang... was hoping i wouldn't have to


Don't like the looks?


----------



## JennyBeans

BucketInABucket said:


> Don't like the looks?



I kinda like the smooth clean look i got the top cover split but not sure if i like it off or not...but if my fans can breath with it on i'd rather have it on


----------



## BucketInABucket

JennyBeans said:


> BucketInABucket said:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't like the looks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kinda like the smooth clean look i got the top cover split but not sure if i like it off or not...but if my fans can breath with it on i'd rather have it on
Click to expand...

Sadly with it smooth there's no airflow to speak of in the top

Honestly thinking of what it'll look like with a nice custom reservoir/distribution plate mounted up there though...


----------



## schoolofmonkey

Hey guys

I'm looking to build a system in the Meshify C.
Now I'm wanting to mount a H115i in the front with only pull fans.

Just a little stumped on GPU's, I would like to use a ROG Strix 1080ti or a MSI GTX1080ti Gaming X.
I'm aware of the measurements etc, but I was wondering what the rest of you have done and what you've found actually fits.

Thanks


----------



## JennyBeans

its so pretty !!!


----------



## BucketInABucket

JennyBeans said:


> its so pretty !!!


What do you have in there?


----------



## songi

The white r6 is like my dream case except the black front door on it is a big turn off  I wish they would've just made it white like the r5 was.. Sigh. Maybe I could try painting it? But I think it's brushed aluminum so does anyone know if that would hinder the ability to paint it white myself?


----------



## khemist

Maybe try a vinyl wrap?.


----------



## somebadlemonade

songi said:


> The white r6 is like my dream case except the black front door on it is a big turn off /forum/images/smilies/frown.gif I wish they would've just made it white like the r5 was.. Sigh. Maybe I could try painting it? But I think it's brushed aluminum so does anyone know if that would hinder the ability to paint it white myself?


Painting over anodized aluminum is generally preferred from rattle can painters, pry the panel off, get a good self etching primer and do a very almost see through base coat, then another light primer coat and then one more light coat and hit it with 600 grit wet sandpaper with water with a bit of dawn soap in it and you're ready for any color you want.

But honestly if it were me I'd use vinyl and maybe do some layering with cutouts so make something interesting or cut out a thin logo or pattern and put a full sheet over it and have that pattern look like it's one piece. Neat little effect.


----------



## songi

somebadlemonade said:


> Painting over anodized aluminum is generally preferred from rattle can painters, pry the panel off, get a good self etching primer and do a very almost see through base coat, then another light primer coat and then one more light coat and hit it with 600 grit wet sandpaper with water with a bit of dawn soap in it and you're ready for any color you want.
> 
> But honestly if it were me I'd use vinyl and maybe do some layering with cutouts so make something interesting or cut out a thin logo or pattern and put a full sheet over it and have that pattern look like it's one piece. Neat little effect.





khemist said:


> Maybe try a vinyl wrap?.



Thanks guys. I think the vinyl wrap route is probably the easiest thing to do about it so maybe that's what I'll try. I've been waiting to see if maybe they would drop a "white out" version since it seems quite a few people also thought the black front looks a little out of place on the white one. Also hoped they'd drop a special white & gold edition like they did for the R5  Oh well


----------



## JennyBeans

BucketInABucket said:


> What do you have in there?





AMD Ryzen 2600x cooled by a Noctura NH-D15
Asus ROG Strix x470-F Motherboard
Kingston 8gb Savage DDR4 2666 (loaner ram till I get my kit at the end of the month) 
EVGA 850 watt G2 PSU out of the original Kitty Rig
EVGA GTX 1070 SC2 8GB GPU
Samsung Evo 850 SSD (original ssd out of the kitty rig) 
Western Digital Green 2tb Drive for my Steam drive 
Also Western Digital Blue 1Tb for random storage
Fractal Design R6 TG white case 



I'm trying to figure out led placement in this case kinda confusing as i can't use my old kit from my old corsair 750D


----------



## BucketInABucket

JennyBeans said:


> BucketInABucket said:
> 
> 
> 
> What do you have in there?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AMD Ryzen 2600x cooled by a Noctura NH-D15
> Asus ROG Strix x470-F Motherboard
> Kingston 8gb Savage DDR4 2666 (loaner ram till I get my kit at the end of the month)
> EVGA 850 watt G2 PSU out of the original Kitty Rig
> EVGA GTX 1070 SC2 8GB GPU
> Samsung Evo 850 SSD (original ssd out of the kitty rig)
> Western Digital Green 2tb Drive for my Steam drive
> Also Western Digital Blue 1Tb for random storage
> Fractal Design R6 TG white case
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out led placement in this case kinda confusing as i can't use my old kit from my old corsair 750D
Click to expand...

Pretty good specs! I've got something similar in my own rig. 😄

Yeah the case doesn't really have many positions for LED strips. I think the only real spot is on the top in that lip between the roof and side panel.


----------



## JMak00

Ive been looking hard at the Meshify C with tempered glass to replace my current ThermalTale Core V31. However, the one big dislike of this case, for me, is the PSU shroud. I have extra fans I want in the case and, more importantly, custom cables that I don't want hidden under the shroud.

Have any of you remove the PSU shroud and continued to use the case without it? If so, how did you remove it? Also, does removing the shroud affect the integrity of the case?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Mopar63

PSU shrouds in general have aweful designs it seems. They always end up restricting air flow an intake fan and seem to directed toward the PSU, dispite it having direct external air access.


----------



## JMak00

Mopar63 said:


> PSU shrouds in general have aweful designs it seems. They always end up restricting air flow an intake fan and seem to directed toward the PSU, dispite it having direct external air access.


Another reason I don't want the shroud. I just don't want to but the cases and then when receiving it find that the shroud can't be removed or that the case fails because it structurally relies on the shroud.

BTW, I've got an 06 300C SRT8...mopar guy myself.


----------



## Qu1ckset

The Fractal Design Flex VRC-25 PCIE x16 Extender and Vertical GPU Riser Card Adapter is stupid expensive, $59CAD+ tax and shipping is crazy!


----------



## Hawkeye360

I’m torn between the R5 and R6. I like both to be honest but I just can’t decide lol

I dislike the non removable PSU shroud on the R6 however. Maybe not a big deal since I don’t buy cases with windows, it’s just a bit more “hassle” to get to the PSU I suppose.

The R6 doesn’t have a side panel with a fan mount either. I don’t know how important that is but it would be nice to give the graphics card some extra cooling right?

I hate analysis paralysis lol


----------



## geoffreymmoore

I'm looking to upgrade my cooling in the Define S windowed. I'm trying to upgrade to 2 360 Rads. I'm looking to upgrade to the EK CoolStream PE, but I'm not sure if they will both fit. I know there is some room for movement but I don't know if there will be enough room for that. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## aaronpiatt

The R6 is a beautifully designed case.


----------



## andrewmp6

aaronpiatt said:


> The R6 is a beautifully designed case.


Anymore pictures of that build ?


----------



## JennyBeans

Hawkeye360 said:


> I’m torn between the R5 and R6. I like both to be honest but I just can’t decide lol
> 
> I dislike the non removable PSU shroud on the R6 however. Maybe not a big deal since I don’t buy cases with windows, it’s just a bit more “hassle” to get to the PSU I suppose.
> 
> The R6 doesn’t have a side panel with a fan mount either. I don’t know how important that is but it would be nice to give the graphics card some extra cooling right?
> 
> I hate analysis paralysis lol


go with the R6 you will not be disappointed...


----------



## andrewmp6

TomatoSupra said:


> Just finished my new R6 Build


What fans are those ?And what rads do you have in that ?


----------



## aaronpiatt

andrewmp6 said:


> What fans are those ?And what rads do you have in that ?


Here is a list copied from my facebook post.

Fractal Design Define R6
ASUS ROG Maximus X Code 
Intel I7 8700K
EK Water Blocks Supremacy Edge
CORSAIR Dominator Platinum Contrast Edition
EVGA 1080 Hydro Copper SLI, 1000W Supernova G3 Psu
Singularity Computers Protium Reservoir / Pump Combo
Alphacool Deutsch 360 Radiators x2 (35mm and 45mm thickness)
Bitspower International Co., Ltd. Fittings, 16mm Petg tube
Samsung 970 Evo 500gb, 950 Evo 500gb X2
CableMod Pro ModMesh E-Series
Lian Li Bora rgb fans 120.


----------



## andrewmp6

Nice thanks for the info,Most builds i see them use dual 360s they put the ports up on the front rad.And have to use a ton of fittings to get around the upper rad and fan.Did you have any problems mounting that front rad with the ports down like that ?


----------



## Blackops_2

My next build is probably going to be an R6 or another nano. Leaning nano even with the restricted space i'm so sick of carrying full towers around when i do have breaks and still have another 4 years of schooling left. I'm sort of blown away at how quiet this ITX rig i just finished on the define nano is.

Aaron that is a beautiful rig man.


----------



## Snoop05

Is it possible to fit two 120mm and two 240mm radiators (slim) into Define Nano S? (at same time)


----------



## fearthisneo

Finally got around to installing vertical gpu mount.


----------



## andrewmp6

aaronpiatt said:


> Here is a list copied from my facebook post.
> 
> Fractal Design Define R6
> ASUS ROG Maximus X Code
> Intel I7 8700K
> EK Water Blocks Supremacy Edge
> CORSAIR Dominator Platinum Contrast Edition
> EVGA 1080 Hydro Copper SLI, 1000W Supernova G3 Psu
> Singularity Computers Protium Reservoir / Pump Combo
> Alphacool Deutsch 360 Radiators x2 (35mm and 45mm thickness)
> Bitspower International Co., Ltd. Fittings, 16mm Petg tube
> Samsung 970 Evo 500gb, 950 Evo 500gb X2
> CableMod Pro ModMesh E-Series
> Lian Li Bora rgb fans 120.


Any problem mounting the front rad with the ports down ?I heard you couldn't do it with this case with out a lot of modding.


----------



## lapino

Just installed my R6, with an open config (with front rad, X62). But now there's an ugly hole at the bottom, what do you guys do to "fill" this? Got my X62 front mounted with NZXT AER fans pulling air in, unfortunately the rgb lights are almost invisible due to the rgb lights begint at the front of the fans and I need them to pull air in (exhaust is black). Might look into top mounting it.


----------



## aBanana144p

Anyone know if or when Meshify C white cases will be in stock anywhere?


----------



## lapino

Moved my pc from a Define R5 to an R6. Mainly because I wanted a more clear window (had the plastic one in the R5) and to hide the psu and cabling. Looks pretty neat. Also installed some NZXT AER rgb fans, going to put one in the rear too and then make them match the cpu/gpu speeds. Think I need some better PSU cabling too. I'm not a pro (far from it). Only thing that really bothered me about the R6 is that there's no drive cages in the bottom front whic is kinda useless with the open design. I have my SSD's installed at the back and my 4tb drive too but I find this a pretty strange solution. Also kinda stupid that Fractal does not provide a way to cover this front bottom part. Otherwise, great case. Let me know what you think and what could be improved.

Also recently got myself an Alienware 34" ultrawide (gsync, 120hz) which is amazing. Guess I'll need a decent rgb keyboard too now and then I'm kinda set.


----------



## Gruff

I am thinking of picking up a Meshify C and adding some SSD mounts on to the PSU shroud. The only problem is the holes on the PSU shroud near the mobo tray look to be too small to fit all the sata and power cables through for two SSDs. 

I am wondering if I Dremel out a bigger hole on the PSU shroud would it affect the structural integrity of the motherboard mounting wall.


----------



## aaronpiatt

andrewmp6 said:


> Any problem mounting the front rad with the ports down ?I heard you couldn't do it with this case with out a lot of modding.


Sorry for the delayed response. No I didn't mod anything just screwed it in. The build went rather smooth really.


----------



## lapino

I have a question about the included fan controller. I want to use my rear fan with the controller, so I got the fan-controller connected to the CHA4-FAN on my mainboard (Asus Hero VIII) and the 3-pin Fractal 140mm to the FAN1 input on the fan controller (the fan is 3 pin). But I cannot seem to control the fan speed, my bios reports around 920rpm but whatever I do, I cannot seem to slow down the fan. Also tried connecting the fan to one of the 3-pin connectors on the fan hub, but then I can't even get an rpm reading.

When I connect the fan directly to my mainboard, I can control its speed just fine.

Any idea?


----------



## Fractal Design

Snoop05 said:


> Is it possible to fit two 120mm and two 240mm radiators (slim) into Define Nano S? (at same time)


Window or non-window version? The solid panel version supports a 120mm radiator in the rear but the panel's just slightly too thick for it on the window version.

In either version can do two 240mm radiators at the same time, but you'd need the space at the bottom and rear to connect the tubing so those positions won't be available for any additional 120mm rads. 240mm top + 120mm front + 120mm bottom shouldn't be a problem either, nor should 4 x 120mm in the solid panel version.



aBanana144p said:


> Anyone know if or when Meshify C white cases will be in stock anywhere?


As of right now both Newegg and Amazon have them.



Gruff said:


> I am thinking of picking up a Meshify C and adding some SSD mounts on to the PSU shroud. The only problem is the holes on the PSU shroud near the mobo tray look to be too small to fit all the sata and power cables through for two SSDs.
> 
> I am wondering if I Dremel out a bigger hole on the PSU shroud would it affect the structural integrity of the motherboard mounting wall.


Indeed the holes on the PSU shroud are just a tad too small for a SATA power connector to fit. A molex connector would fit though, so if you happen to have a molex plug on your PSU you could use a molex to SATA y-cable like this one to make the connection: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Connection-Splitter-Cables-CB-SDSP/dp/B016JHK9TE/

The Meshify chassis is pretty stout though, so if you were to go the Dremel route I imagine you'd have to bore some pretty substantial holes to have any real effect on the integrity of the case.


----------



## Fractal Design

lapino said:


> I have a question about the included fan controller. I want to use my rear fan with the controller, so I got the fan-controller connected to the CHA4-FAN on my mainboard (Asus Hero VIII) and the 3-pin Fractal 140mm to the FAN1 input on the fan controller (the fan is 3 pin). But I cannot seem to control the fan speed, my bios reports around 920rpm but whatever I do, I cannot seem to slow down the fan. Also tried connecting the fan to one of the 3-pin connectors on the fan hub, but then I can't even get an rpm reading.
> 
> When I connect the fan directly to my mainboard, I can control its speed just fine.
> 
> Any idea?


You might try connecting the hub to the CPU fan header, hooking the CPU/radiator fan(s) to the first port(s) of the fan hub, and then connecting the 3-pin fan to the next port after that. That should at least sync the case fan with the CPU cooler.


----------



## PowerSlide

so then 8 months in and still i can't buy R6 in gunmetal/blackout tg in Malaysia

email fractal and answer is end of July but still none

this is sad living in other part of the world


----------



## LocoDiceGR

lapino said:


> Moved my pc from a Define R5 to an R6. Mainly because I wanted a more clear window (had the plastic one in the R5) and to hide the psu and cabling. Looks pretty neat. Also installed some NZXT AER rgb fans, going to put one in the rear too and then make them match the cpu/gpu speeds. Think I need some better PSU cabling too. I'm not a pro (far from it). Only thing that really bothered me about the R6 is that there's no drive cages in the bottom front whic is kinda useless with the open design. I have my SSD's installed at the back and my 4tb drive too but I find this a pretty strange solution. Also kinda stupid that Fractal does not provide a way to cover this front bottom part. Otherwise, great case. Let me know what you think and what could be improved.
> 
> Also recently got myself an Alienware 34" ultrawide (gsync, 120hz) which is amazing. Guess I'll need a decent rgb keyboard too now and then I'm kinda set.


Very nice man!!

Can i have that Wallpaper BTW? Thanks.


----------



## Qu1ckset

1080Ti Installed


----------



## Zhuni

Question for those with the meshify. Does the front foam filter stain white with dust? My arc did and I couldn't clean it off so you could see a white filter behind the mesh and it looked messy. Any ideas for keeping it clean long term?

To fractal please add standard filter when you tweak the case. 

Also does any edition of this case not have the gloss plastic trim around the front?


----------



## Abula

Finished the build on the R6, really a great case, just slightly harder on the PSU cables with the shroud, but very well design case overall. Still looking for 3x HDDs Caddys (with its hdd screws) in case someone isn't using or doesn't plan on using them and willing to part away 

The components of the build
CPU: AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X
Mobo: ASRock X399 TAICHI
Memory: 2x G.SKILL FlareX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200 F4-3200C14D-16GFX
GPU: MSI GT1030 Fanless (slot holder until new gpus get released)
Capture card: ElGato 4k60Pro (not installed atm, its being moded)
SSD1: Samsung 960EVO 500GB (OS and programs)
SSD2: Intel Optane SSD 900P 480GB (editing)
HDDs: 8x Seagate 4TB 5400rpm (ST4000DM000) (left by the storage server, still need 3 caddy to mount them).
Raid card: LSI MEGARAID SAS 9271-8I (not installed until i can mount the hdds).
Case: Fractal Design Define R6 Black
PSU: Seasonic Platinum 860 (re using the psu that was on my main pc).
Intake Fans: 4x BeQuiet! SILENTWINGS 3 140mm PWM BL067+ GELID PWM Fan Power Splitter (CA-PWM-03 PWM)
Heatsink: Noctua NH-U14 TR4
CPU Fan: 2x Thermalright TY147B
Outake Fan: Thermalright TY147B


----------



## Fractal Design

Zhuni said:


> Question for those with the meshify. Does the front foam filter stain white with dust? My arc did and I couldn't clean it off so you could see a white filter behind the mesh and it looked messy. Any ideas for keeping it clean long term?
> 
> To fractal please add standard filter when you tweak the case.
> 
> Also does any edition of this case not have the gloss plastic trim around the front?


All filters eventually get the dusty look when it's time for a cleaning, but if you pop it off and give it a good rinse that should generally take care of anything left behind by canned air. If larger particles get stuck between the mesh and foam those can be a bit more of a hassle to deal with, but that it something we've asked our PD team to look into as far as future improvements.

All versions currently available have the gloss trim on the front bezel. Seems like it's one of those sort of details some people like and others don't, though I would be interested to know how many are on each side of that.


----------



## 161029

Any non-confidential information on when a potential Define Mini refresh will appear (most likely in the style of the R6 since we have the Define C Mini)?

Also can we expect the current tempered glass cases to be refreshed down the road to use a mounting system like the Define R6?

I would imagine some useful changes being the following:

Define C:

 Hinged front panel to allow for dust filter removal without having to rip off the front of the case.
 Simple rounded rectangle masking on the tempered glass compared to the current angular corners. I think it looks a bit aggressive and out of place on the Define. I understand it saves on production costs, however, by sharing as many parts as possible with the Meshify C.

Meshify C:

 Separate the top IO from the front panel like on the Define C.
 Fine mesh filter instead of a foam filter. It allows for better airflow and easier cleaning (better longetivity as well since dust won't get stuck in the foam).

All:

 Define R6 tempered glass side panel mount for all cases for the tempered glass options (or maybe just use clips for all side panel mounts to reduce the different production processes needed to support hook mounts as well).
 Removable rear exhaust grill (e.g. something similar to the wire grilles on Lian Li's on the rear exhaust). This is in the interest of airflow and noise (lets people not have to use a rear exhaust fan by reducing restriction) rather than the current option of taking the bandsaw to the case.

A far reach would be USB-C as standard on the front I/O compared to the current price premium for the replacement I/O assembly. Currently some option at checkout to choose a panel or allow us to send the old panel in (if we get the replacement on the R6 for the USB-C port) would be good for customers. I'd imagine I don't really have to ask for this one because this will become standard once USB-C becomes the majority port but in the meanwhile it would probably be best to change the current system for replacing the front I/O for the USB-C port.

And a personal favorite would be inverted motherboard layouts by screwing in the motherboard tray in a different orientation, but this gets tricky fast with the PSU shroud (printing would be a weird situation unless you remove it, although I would personally prefer if the embossed Fractal logo wasn't there for a cleaner look) and how cases like the Define C have their midplates constructed.


----------



## Zhuni

Fractal Design said:


> All filters eventually get the dusty look when it's time for a cleaning, but if you pop it off and give it a good rinse that should generally take care of anything left behind by canned air. If larger particles get stuck between the mesh and foam those can be a bit more of a hassle to deal with, but that it something we've asked our PD team to look into as far as future improvements.
> 
> All versions currently available have the gloss trim on the front bezel. Seems like it's one of those sort of details some people like and others don't, though I would be interested to know how many are on each side of that.


Awesome! Many thanks! I didn't think to wash it!


----------



## Gruff

Would also like to know if Fractal is planning for any refreshes in the near future. There were no new cases at Computex but I'm hoping they have something planned for this year.

My biggest wish is a updated Meshify C or Meshify Mini C. Things I would add/change

- remove the foam filter on the front panel and instead use a traditional magnetic filter

- make the case slightly wider so that at least one 3.5" HDD can mounted flat against the back of the motherboard tray. This way users can remove the bottom HDD cage and use that space for something else, while not losing out on a 3.5" option. Extra width would also help with cable management.

- add SSD mounts on the PSU shroud


----------



## teh n00binator

I just ordered an R6 yet I didn't check tall RAM compatibility, I understand the clearance up top for 140mm rads & fans is 36mm but what is the clearance for 120mm?

I'm asking because my Teamgroup Nighthawk's are apparently 2.1"/53mm tall in the slot, I know someone from another forum managed to squeeze Corsair Vengeance DDR3 in there at 52.5mm I'm just unsure whether there's an extra 0.5mm or so clearance.


----------



## d0mmie

teh n00binator said:


> I just ordered an R6 yet I didn't check tall RAM compatibility, I understand the clearance up top for 140mm rads & fans is 36mm but what is the clearance for 120mm?
> 
> I'm asking because my Teamgroup Nighthawk's are apparently 2.1"/53mm tall in the slot, I know someone from another forum managed to squeeze Corsair Vengeance DDR3 in there at 52.5mm I'm just unsure whether there's an extra 0.5mm or so clearance.


43 I believe


----------



## teh n00binator

d0mmie said:


> 43 if I believe


Nevermind, I found the answer. They are using my RAM in this build video:


----------



## Jod-R

Gruff said:


> Would also like to know if Fractal is planning for any refreshes in the near future. There were no new cases at Computex but I'm hoping they have something planned for this year.
> 
> My biggest wish is a updated Meshify C or Meshify Mini C. Things I would add/change
> 
> - remove the foam filter on the front panel and instead use a traditional magnetic filter
> 
> - make the case slightly wider so that at least one 3.5" HDD can mounted flat against the back of the motherboard tray. This way users can remove the bottom HDD cage and use that space for something else, while not losing out on a 3.5" option. Extra width would also help with cable management.
> 
> - add SSD mounts on the PSU shroud


With a slightly larger case there would also be room for a 140mm fan back in the case so I support this idea.


----------



## dwolvin

Agreed, I love how quiet good 140's are. On my old Sandy Bridge system, the loudest part of the system was a Corsair M4 (coil whine when writing). You couldn't hear the pump or fans at all unless stressing the system for over an hour, and then it was as much the wind sound of the hex back panel as in through the radiator.


----------



## teh n00binator

For some reason it took hours to drain, strip and install my stuff from my old chassis to this.

Very tight fit for both 360mm rads fittings are literally touching the fan frames, still need to get a uni bracket for my D5 it's resting in the basement.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Finally topped up, and i think i can finally say im done upgrading my PC for along time!


----------



## PowerSlide

finally got my hands on R6 gunmetal

nearly everything is fine until i try to unscrew some screws, did the factory hire hulk to put the case together? lol

still my first fractal case and couldn't be more impress overall


----------



## andrewmp6

strong island 1 said:


> finally got everything up and running, really love this case, will be nice when we get the connect d1
> 
> kinda like it without the rgb, but I can turn off and change color with 1 click for everything. the thermaltake sync controller is pretty cool for $20 to sync fans with aura.


The front rad do you have the ports on the bottom ?


----------



## strong island 1

andrewmp6 said:


> The front rad do you have the ports on the bottom ?


yes, the pump feeds one port and the other exit is the straight tube to right of res, was a real pain to line that tube up, and trying to feed the rad from the pump was not easy, so tight.

I made a mistake though. The front rad is pushing air out so the only air it gets is from inside the case.

IMO I think that makes the rad completely useless, because how could it cool the water with warm air. But I would have to redo everything to put the fans behind. Might just change them to pull, so they pull some fresh air thru.

I might just sell my 1080 ti and grab the newer cards and redo the loop, so both rads suck fresh air in and back fan exhausts whatever it can.

But I have had no trouble with temps. 8086k runs at 5.2ghz 24/7 and 1080 ti is always so cool. Even after gaming for a few hours temps are still very low, water seems to go up like 10 degrees but the chips always stay so cool.


----------



## andrewmp6

stephenmarr said:


> Just finished my build
> Parts list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a Gunmetal case


Which gpu is that you used ?


----------



## d0mmie

andrewmp6 said:


> Which gpu is that you used ?


LOL fits like a glove!


----------



## khemist

Latest r6.


----------



## dusters16

Can OP add the Meshify series please? 

Also may I suggest that we add an line at the top of our posts saying what case(s) we are talking about in our posts? Going through 8 years of posts takes awhile and the search wasn't picking up what I wanted to find. 

Has anyone seen posts, or elsewhere on the internet, that someone has removed the "spiderweb" plastic supports behind the Meshify C front panel mesh?


----------



## JackCY

Isn't that holding in some open cell foam wanna be dust filter?
Seems a plastic mesh frame + foam + outer holed metal grill wrapped around the plastic on edges.

What do you want to know, can you remove the plastic mesh and foam? Sure, probably 5 min with snips or dremel.


----------



## andrewmp6

khemist said:


> Latest r6.


What coolant are you using ?


----------



## khemist

Just d.i. Water.


----------



## dusters16

JackCY said:


> Isn't that holding in some open cell foam wanna be dust filter?
> Seems a plastic mesh frame + foam + outer holed metal grill wrapped around the plastic on edges.
> 
> What do you want to know, can you remove the plastic mesh and foam? Sure, probably 5 min with snips or dremel.


I'm just looking for anyone that has removed the plastic and their experience with it removed. Do the fans pull the filter so much that it touches the fans? Does the filter fall out easily? Any other issues or concerns?


----------



## yuyue

Can we expect any new releases this year? Maybe something like a updated Meshify C?


----------



## Phantomas 007

FRACTAL DESIGN DEFINE R6 GUNMETAL GRAY it's without TG side panel ?


----------



## BangBangPlay

Just finished my Meshify C build and although it is a great case, it was a challenge. I probably shoulda went with two 240mm rads. The clearance for the fittings on both rads was minimal. I had to modify/dremel one of the front fans to get the 1080 Ti to fit. Im still waiting on some small white LEDs for the reservoir.

Airflow is obviously great and temps are silly low. The CPU doesn't go much over 68C in stress testing and the GPU is always below 48C. Still trying to dial in my CPU overclock though....


----------



## mypickaxe

BangBangPlay said:


> Just finished my Meshify C build and although it is a great case, it was a challenge. I probably shoulda went with two 240mm rads. The clearance for the fittings on both rads was minimal. I had to modify/dremel one of the front fans to get the 1080 Ti to fit. Im still waiting on some small white LEDs for the reservoir.
> 
> Airflow is obviously great and temps are silly low. The CPU doesn't go much over 68C in stress testing and the GPU is always below 48C. Still trying to dial in my CPU overclock though....


I like this build. Some people think you have to go hardline these days, but I love flexible tubing for the flexibility (pun intended.)

I myself just finished my storage / vm build in a Define R6 using a collection of hardware from my prior daily driver + some new cooling gear (all on air.)

https://imgur.com/gallery/gSfuVXq


----------



## BangBangPlay

mypickaxe said:


> I like this build. Some people think you have to go hardline these days, but I love flexible tubing for the flexibility (pun intended.)
> 
> I myself just finished my storage / vm build in a Define R6 using a collection of hardware from my prior daily driver + some new cooling gear (all on air.)
> 
> https://imgur.com/gallery/gSfuVXq


Thanks! Its my 2nd build and I was able to plan the entire thing better this time around. I was actually excited about the challenge of hard tubing, but once it went together I quickly scrapped that idea. I was shocked at the results of water vs air on some prominent YouTube channels, very close nowadays....


----------



## Skylinestar

Anybody wanna showcase their cable management of their R5?
http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/accessories/define-r5-tempered-glass-side-panel


----------



## Zhuni

There's quite a few major places that are out stock of the meshify c in UK. Is it just a shortage of is there a new revision coming?


----------



## krzysiek19989-20

Hello Friends. Have question about R6.

Is there a need to fix that space around the edges which happend to be when the top of this case is removed. I mean when we left only filter on top. Kinda worrying about dust getting in to case and proper airflow.

People do something about that or there isnt need in doing anything?
Can i buy some mode or modded top For this case with proper solution of this.

Greetings


----------



## tostitobandito

Has anyone here modded the Meshify C's front panel to allow fans to sit outside the front frame within the mesh/filter? I recall I video I saw a while back, which I now can't find, where it looked like someone was able to fit 120mm fans outside the front and still get the mesh to go on fully. I think they just cut out portions of the plastic webbing structure from inside the front mesh panel so that the fans could poke all the way through close to where the filter and mesh is.


I'm asking because I'd like to mount a 360mm radiator in the front and still be able to run a full length GPU. Housing both the radiator and fans internally limits the GPU to around 280mm, which excludes options like the ASUS STRIX, EVGA FTW, and so forth. I know thinner 15mm fans would probably fit outside the front without a mod, but that would be sacrificing airflow/noise versus standard fans.


Anyways, has anyone done this, or can anyone with the case tell me how much clearance there is between the screw holes and the inside of the mesh when installed?


----------



## Fractal Design

Zhuni said:


> There's quite a few major places that are out stock of the meshify c in UK. Is it just a shortage of is there a new revision coming?


I'm based in the US office so I could say offhand why UK stores would be stocking out but I'm not aware of any larger supply issues. Could be something as simple as a boat being late. 



krzysiek19989-20 said:


> Hello Friends. Have question about R6.
> 
> Is there a need to fix that space around the edges which happend to be when the top of this case is removed. I mean when we left only filter on top. Kinda worrying about dust getting in to case and proper airflow.
> 
> People do something about that or there isnt need in doing anything?
> Can i buy some mode or modded top For this case with proper solution of this.
> 
> Greetings


It shouldn't be any issue. Since the top is generally an exhaust, the filter is mainly just there to keep dust from settling into the system when it's powered off. There shouldn't be any active airflow pulling dust through those gaps, and they need to be there to some extent otherwise it'd be a pain get the filter and/or cooling bracket out.


----------



## e911

Hey everyone! Just joined the Fractal Design club! Picked up an Define R6 TG Blackout.....and I've already broke it!  Replacing the on/off button with the Connect D1 is a pain!! But I digress. The case looks like it's going to be awesome for my Thin Blue Line build!

Now if only FD would make one the size of the CoolerMaster ATCS840!!! Hint Hint


----------



## Gruff

I noticed Fractal Design is releasing TG panels for the Define S/R4 and R5. Looks like I'll be keeping my Define S a bit longer if I'm able to get one of these in Canada. 

I already made a DIY acrylic window for my Define S, but it's hard to keep clean with all the dust that likes to stick to it. Glass would be a lot easier to keep clean.


----------



## Fractal Design

e911 said:


> Hey everyone! Just joined the Fractal Design club! Picked up an Define R6 TG Blackout.....and I've already broke it!  Replacing the on/off button with the Connect D1 is a pain!! But I digress. The case looks like it's going to be awesome for my Thin Blue Line build!
> 
> Now if only FD would make one the size of the CoolerMaster ATCS840!!! Hint Hint


Not sure we'll ever see quite that many ODD bays in a new case but we won't be leaving the full tower segment behind anytime soon. That said though we did finally start selling the drive trays separately for the R6, and while it is a much more compact mid-tower size, this does bring its potential HDD capacity up to 11 <insert obligatory "this goes to eleven" reference>: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/accessories/hdd-drive-tray-kit-type-a


----------



## andrewmp6

I'm glad to see the r6 can now come with the type c installed on it.


----------



## andrewmp6

e911 said:


> Hey everyone! Just joined the Fractal Design club! Picked up an Define R6 TG Blackout.....and I've already broke it!  Replacing the on/off button with the Connect D1 is a pain!! But I digress. The case looks like it's going to be awesome for my Thin Blue Line build!
> 
> Now if only FD would make one the size of the CoolerMaster ATCS840!!! Hint Hint


I still have the coolermaster atcs840 in black no window.I do love the case but today everything is going smaller,And really not many new cases have ODD drives at all anymore.A few of us do use them for blu ray drives or fan controller/temps but we are a small group.phanteks still makes big cases that style but are a older design really.


----------



## e911

Fractal Design said:


> Not sure we'll ever see quite that many ODD bays in a new case but we won't be leaving the full tower segment behind anytime soon. That said though we did finally start selling the drive trays separately for the R6, and while it is a much more compact mid-tower size, this does bring its potential HDD capacity up to 11 <insert obligatory "this goes to eleven" reference>: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/accessories/hdd-drive-tray-kit-type-a


Who said anything about putting ODD there?  It'd make a great case size to do a nice water cooled set up in, especially if you give the user the option of making it ODD or swap out the front to make it a mesh front like the R6 then putting a radiator behind it.

I did pick up some of the HDD trays, as well as the Connect D1 but ended up breaking off the little tab on the power button that sticks through the front of the case. Apparently the directions weren't clear enough and I pushed a bit too hard.  Support ticket opened on the issue.


----------



## odnilB

Hello. Anyone with a Node 304 that tell me the distance between the motherboard and the side panel (the side where the power connector is)?


----------



## Fractal Design

e911 said:


> Who said anything about putting ODD there?  It'd make a great case size to do a nice water cooled set up in, especially if you give the user the option of making it ODD or swap out the front to make it a mesh front like the R6 then putting a radiator behind it.
> 
> I did pick up some of the HDD trays, as well as the Connect D1 but ended up breaking off the little tab on the power button that sticks through the front of the case. Apparently the directions weren't clear enough and I pushed a bit too hard.  Support ticket opened on the issue.


That's unlucky. Those power button housings are usually pretty stout but maybe that one had a hairline fracture or something. Easily replaceable either way and Support should have no trouble getting that taken care of for you. 

We put a lot of thought into the print instructions but I think this is one of those things that's best shown in video form. We do have such a video but I notice it's not linked on the actual product page for some reason. I'll let one of our web devs know, but here's that link in the meantime: 






odnilB said:


> Hello. Anyone with a Node 304 that tell me the distance between the motherboard and the side panel (the side where the power connector is)?


It's about 36mm from the board edge to the rail that the panel slides into, maybe another mm or so to the panel itself.


----------



## 331149

Just ordered the Define C. Should arrive tomorrow. It'll replace my far too big (but still awesome) CM Trooper case. Also it'll be housing my new Ryzen build that I'm currently ordering (items are finally back in stock, yay!). I'm still thinking about whether or not I should keep the fans that come with the case or use my NF-P12 fans as intake. I'll let temperature and noise decide.


----------



## 331149

Woo, it arrived today. Man it is a sexy looking case and it feels like proper quality. My first Fractal case ever. I'm impressed. Smaller in length than I thought which is awesome. I replaced the front fans with Noctua, the provided fans did not push a whole lot of air. Rear fan will be a simple red led fan, but if it's too noisy (it's Corsair, so it probably will be) I'm installing the Fractal fan again. Installed the power supply and tried to plan which wires would be needed (looks like all of them except for the molex wire) and drives installed as well. Now I just need the board and cpu, but it looks like it wont be arriving until next week. Typical.

Can't wait to rip the protective film off. Also I'm going to tint the window to make it darker obviously. No glass for me


----------



## e911

Fractal Design said:


> That's unlucky. Those power button housings are usually pretty stout but maybe that one had a hairline fracture or something. Easily replaceable either way and Support should have no trouble getting that taken care of for you.
> 
> We put a lot of thought into the print instructions but I think this is one of those things that's best shown in video form. We do have such a video but I notice it's not linked on the actual product page for some reason. I'll let one of our web devs know, but here's that link in the meantime: https://youtu.be/v8cvH2NF0po
> 
> 
> 
> It's about 36mm from the board edge to the rail that the panel slides into, maybe another mm or so to the panel itself.


Thanks for the video! Any way you could get support to actually look at my ticket? It's been open now for 5 days and no response. Just "Being Processed".

Thanks.


----------



## nickt1862

andrewmp6 said:


> I'm glad to see the r6 can now come with the type c installed on it.


I ordered one (with the type c already installed) in white from Newegg, got it today and it's damaged (bent in, crimped and not in straight) - see attached photo of the power/hdd activity led lens.

I ordered one (R6) from Amazon the week before (non-USB type c) with the same type damage and that got returned.

Meanwhile, all my parts sitting for 2 weeks for my brand new i7 8700k build is awaiting a case that has some type of quality control.

JUST SICKENING! Also seeking a quality case without any windows are fewer to be had these days.


----------



## nickt1862

Fractal Design said:


> That's unlucky. Those power button housings are usually pretty stout but maybe that one had a hairline fracture or something. Easily replaceable either way and Support should have no trouble getting that taken care of for you.
> 
> We put a lot of thought into the print instructions but I think this is one of those things that's best shown in video form. We do have such a video but I notice it's not linked on the actual product page for some reason. I'll let one of our web devs know, but here's that link in the meantime: https://youtu.be/v8cvH2NF0po
> 
> 
> 
> It's about 36mm from the board edge to the rail that the panel slides into, maybe another mm or so to the panel itself.


I've seen that video and if you look closely, the led lens gets damaged on install to the D1 this is why I purchased one with it already installed on the case - but it made no difference. See my post above of the usb type c R6 case that I received today and have returned it for the same issue even though it's already installed. Two R6 cases one with and one without the type C with the same issue. Quality control was better with the R5 IMHO.

BAD BAD BAD quality control!


----------



## Fractal Design

e911 said:


> Thanks for the video! Any way you could get support to actually look at my ticket? It's been open now for 5 days and no response. Just "Being Processed".
> 
> Thanks.


Sure. Just let me know the ticket# and I'll find out what the holdup is.


----------



## Fractal Design

nickt1862 said:


> I ordered one (with the type c already installed) in white from Newegg, got it today and it's damaged (bent in, crimped and not in straight) - see attached photo of the power/hdd activity led lens.
> 
> I ordered one (R6) from Amazon the week before (non-USB type c) with the same type damage and that got returned.
> 
> Meanwhile, all my parts sitting for 2 weeks for my brand new i7 8700k build is awaiting a case that has some type of quality control.
> 
> JUST SICKENING! Also seeking a quality case without any windows are fewer to be had these days.


The LED lens is supposed to be angled inward like that. Are you sure it was actual damage you were seeing and not just the way the component is shaped?


----------



## nickt1862

Fractal Design said:


> The LED lens is supposed to be angled inward like that. Are you sure it was actual damage you were seeing and not just the way the component is shaped?


When I run my finger (skin not nail) down that lens there is an unnatural outward bump and that whiter crimped area caused by the install of the power switch assembly into the usb type C I/O panel and with my two R6's also the bottom of that lens is inside not flush with the bottom part of that assembly as it should. 

Also look at how it's installed in that slot as it's towards the right near the top - not even centered at that with plastic excess on the right going towards the bottom.

Two weeks ago I was at my local Micro Center store and saw their R6 glass panel cases and that lens had no such issue - it was perfect as it should be. I don't want a glass panel version of that case though. Angled, yes but not badly installed which caused damage with space left over at the bottom of that lens assembly to the I/O panel closest to the one 5.25 bay as I know how it should be in there.

What passes for "good" or "acceptable" these days is irritating in the least.

I built a computer for my Mom in an R5 (no I don't want an R5 lol!), and that case quality control wise IMHO is fantastic verses my experiences just inspecting the R6. 

After your question (no offense) I question whether any potential warranty claim with your company will be met with not getting anywhere.


----------



## Iconoclast

nickt1862 said:


> When I run my finger (skin not nail) down that lens there is an unnatural outward bump and that whiter crimped area caused by the install of the power switch assembly into the usb type C I/O panel and with my two R6's also the bottom of that lens is inside not flush with the bottom part of that assembly as it should.
> 
> Also look at how it's installed in that slot as it's towards the right near the top - not even centered at that with plastic excess on the right going towards the bottom.
> 
> Two weeks ago I was at my local Micro Center store and saw their R6 glass panel cases and that lens had no such issue - it was perfect as it should be. I don't want a glass panel version of that case though. Angled, yes but not badly installed which caused damage with space left over at the bottom of that lens assembly to the I/O panel closest to the one 5.25 bay as I know how it should be in there.
> 
> What passes for "good" or "acceptable" these days is irritating in the least.
> 
> I built a computer for my Mom in an R5 (no I don't want an R5 lol!), and that case quality control wise IMHO is fantastic verses my experiences just inspecting the R6.
> 
> After your question (no offense) I question whether any potential warranty claim with your company will be met with not getting anywhere.


Yea, that's the way it's designed man. There is no flaw there. Your expectations are just a touch high for a flaw you can only notice when the machine is off, with your face pressed right up against it.
You would be able to see it if I had turned my computer off, but running my finger over it, you can feel the same dimple you have pictured... but it's really not worth the time to do so...


----------



## nickt1862

Iconoclast said:


> Yea, that's the way it's designed man. There is no flaw there. Your expectations are just a touch high for a flaw you can only notice when the machine is off, with your face pressed right up against it.
> You would be able to see it if I had turned my computer off, but running my finger over it, you can feel the same dimple you have pictured... but it's really not worth the time to do so...


Did you look at my photo?

Yours is perfect and I wouldn't be saying anything if I had your computer case instead.

Mine is bent in at the bottom and tucked into the panel and the white line that's quite visible is where the bump is where it's crimped from that lens actually being bent inside with a space that you can see into the case at the bottom - just a bad fit and QC. It's worse than the photo can show.

There's another member here in OCN with an R6 with missing rivets in the rear of the case.

BAD QUALITY CONTROL, no two ways about it.

EDIT: I went to my local Micro Center today to see if I'd purchase any case they had (I didn't), while I was there I took a photo of their displayed Define R6 case lens (attached) and that was perfect as well. I showed the sales associate my R6 photo from yesterday and he agreed with me that it wasn't normal.


----------



## Fractal Design

nickt1862 said:


> Did you look at my photo?
> 
> Yours is perfect and I wouldn't be saying anything if I had your computer case instead.
> 
> Mine is bent in at the bottom and tucked into the panel and the white line that's quite visible is where the bump is where it's crimped from that lens actually being bent inside with a space that you can see into the case at the bottom - just a bad fit and QC. It's worse than the photo can show.
> 
> There's another member here in OCN with an R6 with missing rivets in the rear of the case.
> 
> BAD QUALITY CONTROL, no two ways about it.


Again, the bump, the bend, and the way it angles into the panel are all part of the design and the way it's meant to be. Zoomed in as your photo is I can see yours is a fraction of a millimeter right of perfect center, but for an adjustment that small I bet you can fix it by loosening the two screws behind the switch, pressing gently left against the top of the lens, and and then re-tightening the screws. 

At this minute scale in this specific scenario I'm not sure it's even really a question of quality control. There has to be some small gap or no normal person would be able to get parts in and out without breaking things, and there's only so much precision you can reasonably get when fastening small plastic parts with standard screws. There's a small space at the edge of the ModuVent panel on the top too, and you can probably see into the case through it as well if you were to stand over it at the right angle, but if it wasn't there you'd never get the panel out without a major hassle. 

I'm not saying you shouldn't have high expectations--that's something I expect from all of our customers--but there are limits to the degree of manufacturing precision that are realistically attainable, and sometimes bumps, bends, and spaces are there for a reason.


----------



## nickt1862

Fractal Design said:


> Again, the bump, the bend, and the way it angles into the panel are all part of the design and the way it's meant to be. Zoomed in as your photo is I can see yours is a fraction of a millimeter right of perfect center, but for an adjustment that small I bet you can fix it by loosening the two screws behind the switch, pressing gently left against the top of the lens, and and then re-tightening the screws.
> 
> At this minute scale in this specific scenario I'm not sure it's even really a question of quality control. There has to be some small gap or no normal person would be able to get parts in and out without breaking things, and there's only so much precision you can reasonably get when fastening small plastic parts with standard screws. There's a small space at the edge of the ModuVent panel on the top too, and you can probably see into the case through it as well if you were to stand over it at the right angle, but if it wasn't there you'd never get the panel out without a major hassle.
> 
> I'm not saying you shouldn't have high expectations--that's something I expect from all of our customers--but there are limits to the degree of manufacturing precision that are realistically attainable, and sometimes bumps, bends, and spaces are there for a reason.


Thanks for your response.

You can't fix the gap that my photo doesn't capture good enough on the very bottom edge of the lens which is really tucked inwards that meets with the assembly right above the one 5.25" bay no matter what one does - yes it should be on an angle but that angle is "distorted" when it's not in correctly. My Mom's R5 case led lens is also at an angle BUT is correctly in there. After my Micro Center visit today I see their display R6 to be 1000% better than the two I received and returned by far. Also the "cheapening" on some cases from their previous versions like between the R5 and R6 the mechanical power switch has been eliminated which for me at least has a cheap feel when depressing it - it's not just with Fractal Design that has done this and don't tell me it's what people want verses the reality cost cutting reason. The OCN member whose case has missing rivets on the back of his R6 case and my two R6 case lens experiences prove to some degree the lack of solid quality control to where even a veteran computer case salesperson at Micro Center agreed with me quickly after seeing my photo.

YES I have high expectations especially when in the past I would be able to purchase any case without much worry of shoddy workmanship. I'm purchasing a NEW case and expect the manufacturer of such case to have exceptional quality control. I spent $163.xx for the last R6 USB C case and I still can't put a computer together and I blame Fractal Design for this as if the QC was good with the first R6 I wouldn't be typing on a computer that can't even keep up my keyboard keystrokes that I want to throw out the window. 

I've seen better R6 cases, so my disgust and if I dare to order another R6 case it's another whole week to see if I'm 3 for 3.


----------



## JackCY

At least you can swap the front I/O on R6, getting power button out on R4 is near impossible. Whether the R6 see through plastic piece thin sticking down is supposed to be straight or bent, depends, one would have to see the parts up close and how they fit, if it's meant to be straight and not bend then it may be hard to install it that way that's why everyone is putting it in the other way where it bends unless you have a way of pushing it out with a screw driver so it's not bent inward. Minor thing IMHO really.

All the photos I could find have it bent in on the bottom.


----------



## vseddie

tostitobandito said:


> Has anyone here modded the Meshify C's front panel to allow fans to sit outside the front frame within the mesh/filter? I recall I video I saw a while back, which I now can't find, where it looked like someone was able to fit 120mm fans outside the front and still get the mesh to go on fully. I think they just cut out portions of the plastic webbing structure from inside the front mesh panel so that the fans could poke all the way through close to where the filter and mesh is.
> 
> 
> I'm asking because I'd like to mount a 360mm radiator in the front and still be able to run a full length GPU. Housing both the radiator and fans internally limits the GPU to around 280mm, which excludes options like the ASUS STRIX, EVGA FTW, and so forth. I know thinner 15mm fans would probably fit outside the front without a mod, but that would be sacrificing airflow/noise versus standard fans.
> 
> 
> Anyways, has anyone done this, or can anyone with the case tell me how much clearance there is between the screw holes and the inside of the mesh when installed?


I'm planning on doing this next week but with dual 140's. I'll let you know how I go lol.

The video you are probably thinking of is this one.. https://youtu.be/O_DXoIhMdj0


----------



## tostitobandito

vseddie said:


> I'm planning on doing this next week but with dual 140's. I'll let you know how I go lol.
> 
> The video you are probably thinking of is this one.. https://youtu.be/O_DXoIhMdj0



Yeah I think that was it. Let me know how your build goes and post pics if you can.



I'm planning on going with a 360mm rad, so depending on what GPU I end up with I might mount just the middle 120mm fan outside the front to give the GPU more room (other two front fans would still be inside). It looks like he pulled it off with normal 25mm fans, but I was also thinking of trying a 15mm thick fan like the Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM. Would make it that much easier to fit.


----------



## nickt1862

JackCY said:


> At least you can swap the front I/O on R6, getting power button out on R4 is near impossible. Whether the R6 see through plastic piece thin sticking down is supposed to be straight or bent, depends, one would have to see the parts up close and how they fit, if it's meant to be straight and not bend then it may be hard to install it that way that's why everyone is putting it in the other way where it bends unless you have a way of pushing it out with a screw driver so it's not bent inward. Minor thing IMHO really.
> 
> All the photos I could find have it bent in on the bottom.


That lens goes and is supposed to be on an angle, that's not the issue. The issue is that in the center of that lens is crimped because the lower part of that lens did not go through the slot enough when Fractal Design inserted the power switch which is part of the lens assembly, therefore, bending that lens inwards causing the crimping/stress and is why you easily see the pronounced white line going across in the center. The front part of the lower part of that lens should come almost close enough to flush maybe slightly in - mine was not in slightly sadly. My Mom has an R5 so I'm quite familiar with the lens angle thing. 

Now, (drum roll lol!) this evening I ordered ANOTHER R6 case from Newegg with next day delivery rush processing so I should have it on Tuesday as the warehouse doesn't work during the weekends. I pray and trust that my "new case losing streak" will end and be like the near perfect R6 case condition manufacturing wise as I saw at Micro Center today. I sent the rep at Newegg the same photo I posted here (also did yesterday) and he saw it to be clearly defective and dirty (see the red-ish in the photo) too - that photo gets forwarded to the RMA dept., awaiting the defective R6 case I sent back yesterday.

In the end, Quality Control must be better.

Dear Fractal Design - if my 3rd receipt of this case is received messed up you lost a customer. I'm not going to play this bad quality control game longer than Tuesday of next week. I'm not seeking 1,000 percent perfect, but quality within best human capabilities which I have not to date seen. I never had these issues with other brand new computer cases from other manufacturers.


----------



## Gruff

tostitobandito said:


> Has anyone here modded the Meshify C's front panel to allow fans to sit outside the front frame within the mesh/filter? I recall I video I saw a while back, which I now can't find, where it looked like someone was able to fit 120mm fans outside the front and still get the mesh to go on fully. I think they just cut out portions of the plastic webbing structure from inside the front mesh panel so that the fans could poke all the way through close to where the filter and mesh is.
> 
> 
> I'm asking because I'd like to mount a 360mm radiator in the front and still be able to run a full length GPU. Housing both the radiator and fans internally limits the GPU to around 280mm, which excludes options like the ASUS STRIX, EVGA FTW, and so forth. I know thinner 15mm fans would probably fit outside the front without a mod, but that would be sacrificing airflow/noise versus standard fans.
> 
> 
> Anyways, has anyone done this, or can anyone with the case tell me how much clearance there is between the screw holes and the inside of the mesh when installed?


Bitwit did a build video where he snipped away some of the plastic bits on the front panel so that fans could fit on the outside of the case. If you scroll to the pinned comment in the comment section you can see his explanation for doing it:


----------



## Randallel

Any Meshify C owners top frame getting indented by the pressure of a case fan? Seems like the metal is thin enough where that would be a problem?


----------



## Offler

Just sharing photos from my build which includes Fractal Design Node 804.

MATX Asrock x399M, Threadripper 1900x, FuryX with liquid cooling, and a bunch of Noctua fans. The chamber design is absolutely flawless IMO. Heat from CPU goes out through rear exhaust fan, FuryX uses the exhaust in the right chamber. Therefore "heat pollution" inside the case is minimal.


----------



## tostitobandito

@*Fractal Design* 

Suggestion time, as someone who just bought a Meshify C for a build.

I'm sure you've probably heard this suggestion before, but it would be great if the Meshify C (or another similar new open-front airflow case model) was about 1 inch/25mm longer front to back. I do like the small footprint and that's one of the reasons I got it over other much larger mid towers. However, when running any sort of front mounted radiator (the best place to have one) along with its fans it means you're limited to a GPU of around 280mm max. This excludes all the highest end custom PCB cards like the EVGA FTW or Asus STRIX. An extra 25-30mm in there would bump that up over 300mm so that even with a rad and fans there'd still be just enough space for the longest cards. I think that would be a happy medium between the smaller ATX cases like the Meshify which potentially restrict GPU length, and the big mid towers that are 3+ inches longer and take up a lot more space on a desk.


----------



## 331149

tostitobandito said:


> @*Fractal Design*
> 
> Suggestion time, as someone who just bought a Meshify C for a build.
> 
> I'm sure you've probably heard this suggestion before, but it would be great if the Meshify C (or another similar new open-front airflow case model) was about 1 inch/25mm longer front to back. I do like the small footprint and that's one of the reasons I got it over other much larger mid towers. However, when running any sort of front mounted radiator (the best place to have one) along with its fans it means you're limited to a GPU of around 280mm max. This excludes all the highest end custom PCB cards like the EVGA FTW or Asus STRIX. An extra 25-30mm in there would bump that up over 300mm so that even with a rad and fans there'd still be just enough space for the longest cards. I think that would be a happy medium between the smaller ATX cases like the Meshify which potentially restrict GPU length, and the big mid towers that are 3+ inches longer and take up a lot more space on a desk.


This is really something you should have researched prior to buying the case. It's a silly idea to make them longer when they are supposed to be compact cases. Want more room? Get a bigger case.


----------



## vseddie

tostitobandito said:


> Yeah I think that was it. Let me know how your build goes and post pics if you can.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning on going with a 360mm rad, so depending on what GPU I end up with I might mount just the middle 120mm fan outside the front to give the GPU more room (other two front fans would still be inside). It looks like he pulled it off with normal 25mm fans, but I was also thinking of trying a 15mm thick fan like the Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM. Would make it that much easier to fit.


i just tried some test fitting and dual 140mm wont fit outside the front due to the fans being offset. This is with 3 x 120mm fans fitted and the mesh grill removed.

Due to the bracket for the fractal design logo being part of the frame that holds the grill on there is only a 15mm gap so you might just fit a slim fan at the bottom but 25mm thick fans at the top and middle will be fine if you cut out the inner shroud.

15mm Slim fans should fit on the outside without cutting any of the shroud.


----------



## Iconoclast

nickt1862 said:


> Did you look at my photo?
> 
> Yours is perfect and I wouldn't be saying anything if I had your computer case instead.
> 
> Mine is bent in at the bottom and tucked into the panel and the white line that's quite visible is where the bump is where it's crimped from that lens actually being bent inside with a space that you can see into the case at the bottom - just a bad fit and QC. It's worse than the photo can show.
> 
> There's another member here in OCN with an R6 with missing rivets in the rear of the case.
> 
> BAD QUALITY CONTROL, no two ways about it.
> 
> EDIT: I went to my local Micro Center today to see if I'd purchase any case they had (I didn't), while I was there I took a photo of their displayed Define R6 case lens (attached) and that was perfect as well. I showed the sales associate my R6 photo from yesterday and he agreed with me that it wasn't normal.


I did. And it is exactly the same. It's a piece of small plastic mounted in another piece of plastic. There's bound to be a slight margin of error.
Mine is just the same as yours, small hump 1/3 down from the top, bends in to bottom section that is not perfectly flush and it is a mm or two off centre.
You claim it's perfect, because you don't notice it with the system on and the LED flashing.
This all very minor stuff, as you're not arguing over inches, but literally millimeters. But if you're going to lose sleep over this, go get a different case.


----------



## tostitobandito

TheBDK said:


> This is really something you should have researched prior to buying the case. It's a silly idea to make them longer when they are supposed to be compact cases. Want more room? Get a bigger case.



I did. As I said, most longer cases are considerably longer/higher (not just slightly), and I like many of the other features of the meshify/define more than other cases. I think this likely has more to do with the meshify structure being based on the older define cases which come from a time when GPU's were a bit shorter in general. I think if they were designing a new chassis from scratch it would probably have at least 330-340mm (instead of 315mm) of GPU to front fan clearance in order to accommodate full size GPU's plus a radiator. That's all I was suggesting. I don't think that's silly, and like I've said in other posts there's ways to work around this with some light modding via putting at least one fan outside the front. I knew this going in, and am happy with my purchase.


----------



## bigboy678

tostitobandito said:


> I did. As I said, most longer cases are considerably longer/higher (not just slightly), and I like many of the other features of the meshify/define more than other cases. I think this likely has more to do with the meshify structure being based on the older define cases which come from a time when GPU's were a bit shorter in general. I think if they were designing a new chassis from scratch it would probably have at least 330-340mm (instead of 315mm) of GPU to front fan clearance in order to accommodate full size GPU's plus a radiator. That's all I was suggesting. I don't think that's silly, and like I've said in other posts there's ways to work around this with some light modding via putting at least one fan outside the front. I knew this going in, and am happy with my purchase.


i can relate to your problem. i love the overall layout of the r6 and its one of the few cases that can fit a 420 radiator in the roof. i just wish it was 25mm or so taller so it could fit a slightly thicker radiator. That extra inch would be most welcomed


----------



## nickt1862

Iconoclast said:


> I did. And it is exactly the same. It's a piece of small plastic mounted in another piece of plastic. There's bound to be a slight margin of error.
> Mine is just the same as yours, small hump 1/3 down from the top, bends in to bottom section that is not perfectly flush and it is a mm or two off centre.
> You claim it's perfect, because you don't notice it with the system on and the LED flashing.
> This all very minor stuff, as you're not arguing over inches, but literally millimeters. But if you're going to lose sleep over this, go get a different case.


The one I saw at Micro Center was as it should be and not even close to what I received.

I would've purchased one from there but it was with TG and Black - I want white with a solid left side panel also with USB - C.

Also friend, I'm not going to lose sleep over a mere computer case lol! If the one I'm scheduled to receive on Tuesday doesn't do it I'll just move on to another case manufacturer. I'm too old (older than most here) to know that there are other things in life much more important to lose sleep over.


----------



## Gruff

tostitobandito said:


> @*Fractal Design*
> 
> Suggestion time, as someone who just bought a Meshify C for a build.
> 
> I'm sure you've probably heard this suggestion before, but it would be great if the Meshify C (or another similar new open-front airflow case model) was about 1 inch/25mm longer front to back. I do like the small footprint and that's one of the reasons I got it over other much larger mid towers. However, when running any sort of front mounted radiator (the best place to have one) along with its fans it means you're limited to a GPU of around 280mm max. This excludes all the highest end custom PCB cards like the EVGA FTW or Asus STRIX. An extra 25-30mm in there would bump that up over 300mm so that even with a rad and fans there'd still be just enough space for the longest cards. I think that would be a happy medium between the smaller ATX cases like the Meshify which potentially restrict GPU length, and the big mid towers that are 3+ inches longer and take up a lot more space on a desk.



I think I made a post about this previously but I do think a slightly bigger Meshify C (Call it a Meshify S) would be perfect. Size wise it would slot in between a Meshify C and Define R6. 

An extra inch in length would allow for longer GPU's and rad up front. An extra inch in width could allow for 3.5" drives to be mounted flat against the motherboard wall thus eliminating the need for the drive cage. The extra inch in height could possibly allow for 3 x 140mm fans up front with a few other tweaks.


----------



## jonny27

tostitobandito said:


> @*Fractal Design*
> 
> Suggestion time, as someone who just bought a Meshify C for a build.
> 
> I'm sure you've probably heard this suggestion before, but it would be great if the Meshify C (or another similar new open-front airflow case model) was about 1 inch/25mm longer front to back. I do like the small footprint and that's one of the reasons I got it over other much larger mid towers. However, when running any sort of front mounted radiator (the best place to have one) along with its fans it means you're limited to a GPU of around 280mm max. This excludes all the highest end custom PCB cards like the EVGA FTW or Asus STRIX. An extra 25-30mm in there would bump that up over 300mm so that even with a rad and fans there'd still be just enough space for the longest cards. I think that would be a happy medium between the smaller ATX cases like the Meshify which potentially restrict GPU length, and the big mid towers that are 3+ inches longer and take up a lot more space on a desk.


If we're going that route, why not a couple cm more, and just make an Arc R3? I've been waiting for that for such a long time myself.


----------



## JennyBeans

I have the Fractal Design R6 .. now the top fan / rad bracket .. the screws are so tight i can't get them off... any suggestions?


----------



## Fractal Design

tostitobandito said:


> I did. As I said, most longer cases are considerably longer/higher (not just slightly), and I like many of the other features of the meshify/define more than other cases. I think this likely has more to do with the meshify structure being based on the older define cases which come from a time when GPU's were a bit shorter in general. I think if they were designing a new chassis from scratch it would probably have at least 330-340mm (instead of 315mm) of GPU to front fan clearance in order to accommodate full size GPU's plus a radiator. That's all I was suggesting. I don't think that's silly, and like I've said in other posts there's ways to work around this with some light modding via putting at least one fan outside the front. I knew this going in, and am happy with my purchase.


Certainly not an unreasonable request, and not an unusual one either. I'd say max GPU length is probably top of the list of challenges we'd like to tackle in future C Series cases. The trick is always to try and find that perfect sweet spot, the question of exactly how much larger to go in any particular dimension before your Define C has turned into a Define S. That said though I'm sure plenty of folks would be interested in a larger Meshify if the choice was there.


----------



## Fractal Design

JennyBeans said:


> I have the Fractal Design R6 .. now the top fan / rad bracket .. the screws are so tight i can't get them off... any suggestions?


Are you using a #2 phillips head? With those screws I've found you have to use exactly the right size screwdriver or they tend not to cooperate. We've got at least a couple screwdrivers around the office here that look like they're the same size, but one works perfectly with those top bracket screws and the other tries to eat them.


----------



## JennyBeans

i tried several bits ... didn't seem to want to budge


----------



## nickt1862

Sorry all - unintentional Double Post.


----------



## nickt1862

JennyBeans said:


> i tried several bits ... didn't seem to want to budge


I'm sorry about the over-tightened screws but you're not alone, this is what a reviewer on Newegg said about the same issue: "Virtually every screw came outrageously over-tightened and required power tools just to disassemble enough to convert to the "open layout" as advertised. I chewed through and destroyed 1 manual screwdriver bit and 1 cordless screwdriver bit while unsuccessfully trying to extract a few of the screws, particularly on the top panel. These were admittedly pretty cheap tools, but I've never previously had to worry about applying a substantial amount of torque while assembling a computer... "

If you read my recent posts, I've had issues with two R6's so far with the third arriving tomorrow hopefully "being the charm" and by reading your posts it reminds me to check about the potential of over-tightened screws as I will make sure they are able to loosen that's all.

I hope that you find a way to loosen them without ruining the case.


----------



## Gruff

Fractal Design said:


> .


Do you know if the glass panels for the R5 and Define S will be sold in Canada? 

I have seen them on Newegg's US site but nothing on the Canadian Newegg site yet.


----------



## JennyBeans

nickt1862 said:


> I'm sorry about the over-tightened screws but you're not alone, this is what a reviewer on Newegg said about the same issue: "Virtually every screw came outrageously over-tightened and required power tools just to disassemble enough to convert to the "open layout" as advertised. I chewed through and destroyed 1 manual screwdriver bit and 1 cordless screwdriver bit while unsuccessfully trying to extract a few of the screws, particularly on the top panel. These were admittedly pretty cheap tools, but I've never previously had to worry about applying a substantial amount of torque while assembling a computer... "
> 
> If you read my recent posts, I've had issues with two R6's so far with the third arriving tomorrow hopefully "being the charm" and by reading your posts it reminds me to check about the potential of over-tightened screws as I will make sure they are able to loosen that's all.
> 
> I hope that you find a way to loosen them without ruining the case.





that's what I'm afraid of ...


----------



## nickt1862

JennyBeans said:


> that's what I'm afraid of ...


Are you able to return your case for another one of the same or a different one?


----------



## JackCY

You could try getting WD40 chew into the thread. Also heat cycling the bolt. Hitting it. In the end drill that thing out.


----------



## nickt1862

JackCY said:


> You could try getting WD40 chew into the thread. Also heat cycling the bolt. Hitting it. In the end drill that thing out.


I wouldn't do any of that "if" I were able to return that case for a replacement.

Again, I know I'm repeating this here - Quality Control of "x" amount of Fractal Design cases is just BAD BAD BAD! 

Screws that one cannot get out of a new case is inexcusable in my view as they should come out with little effort without using "heavy artillery" IMHO.


----------



## JennyBeans

nickt1862 said:


> Are you able to return your case for another one of the same or a different one?





I could but then i'd have no case, I kinda like my case despite the flaws


----------



## nickt1862

JennyBeans said:


> I could but then i'd have no case, I kinda like my case despite the flaws


 I meant an exchange, then you'd still have a case hopefully without the screw issues.


----------



## JennyBeans

nickt1862 said:


> I meant an exchange, then you'd still have a case hopefully without the screw issues.



yeah but i don't wanna be out of a pc


----------



## Fractal Design

JennyBeans said:


> that's what I'm afraid of ...


If any of the screws end up getting stripped or damaged during removal we'd be more than happy to replace those for you. Same goes for the bracket itself. The whole point of the design is to make the case easier to work with, so if it takes that much effort to get the screws out with the proper sized bit I'd consider any resulting damage to be an in-warranty issue.


----------



## JackCY

In EU it's "simple" you have 2 weeks after purchase to take it back to the seller and return it and buy a different unit of the same case or other case or no case and get money back.

Worried about not having a case... here is what you can do, take your motherboard box and put the mobo on it with PCIE/expansion cards overhanging their bracket over the edge of it.

These fan covers are always finicky, I've yet to see a case where they are not. Either they are loose or break easily or they are tightened by a machine, power tool and hard to undo as you've experienced.
If you want to treat it as a warranty then that's usually a lengthy process, shipping isn't always free, etc.

Key to getting screws out is have a good well fitting screwdriver and don't mess up the screw head. Ideally you want a screw driver that fits in with no play, as deep as possible, as wide as possible with sharp edges on it.

Either fix it yourself or exchange the case.


----------



## nickt1862

Fractal Design said:


> If any of the screws end up getting stripped or damaged during removal we'd be more than happy to replace those for you. Same goes for the bracket itself. The whole point of the design is to make the case easier to work with, so if it takes that much effort to get the screws out with the proper sized bit I'd consider any resulting damage to be an in-warranty issue.


Luckily the 3rd case I just received has no such issue.

If I want to nitpick, the power/hdd lens doesn't perfectly line up with the door slot for that and the I/O panel plastic is even where the Power Switch is and lower on either side against the top chassis of the case. Also the front door is slightly scratched. Like I said in an earlier post I don't expect 1000% perfection.



Anyway, the reason I quoted this post was to ask you a question: Will an R5 door fit an R6? If so is there any way I can get the white door from an R5 and how much in USD. Thanks!


----------



## nickt1862

JackCY said:


> In EU it's "simple" you have 2 weeks after purchase to take it back to the seller and return it and buy a different unit of the same case or other case or no case and get money back.
> 
> Worried about not having a case... here is what you can do, take your motherboard box and put the mobo on it with PCIE/expansion cards overhanging their bracket over the edge of it.
> 
> These fan covers are always finicky, I've yet to see a case where they are not. Either they are loose or break easily or they are tightened by a machine, power tool and hard to undo as you've experienced.
> If you want to treat it as a warranty then that's usually a lengthy process, shipping isn't always free, etc.
> 
> Key to getting screws out is have a good well fitting screwdriver and don't mess up the screw head. Ideally you want a screw driver that fits in with no play, as deep as possible, as wide as possible with sharp edges on it.
> 
> Either fix it yourself or exchange the case.


I'd exchange it if it can be brought back personally to the store of purchase.

I did a few minutes ago of this post received my 3rd Define R6 and after checking the lens that I had issue with with the earlier 2 I received, I opened up the top moduvent and made sure those 4 screws were able to be loosened which they did - I also checked the rest of the case screws - no issues.


----------



## LazarusIV

Hey, any place I can buy a non-windowed side panel for my Define S? Not sure if they're still available or not... thanks!


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Love Fractal cases! 


I have a Meshify C (build), Define R6 (build), Define R4 (have but giving to friend whenever he gets around to it) and a Arc Mini R2 (not being used).*
*


----------



## HeyThereGuy

Will a Hardwarelabs 360mm GTS X-Flow rad fit in the front of the R6?


----------



## Bill Owen

Mosquito and I share overview of the New S2 case by Fractal Design


----------



## Gruff

Great job on the S2, Fractal!


----------



## jonny27

Already skimming through the reviews, and at the risk of getting absolutely lynched by the whole thread, I don't see the point of it over the Define R6. 
The S(1) was a great cheaper alternative for people who wanted a Define, but didn't need as many features as with the R's, but this one on the other hand, seeing as the R6 can achieve a similar layout, really only has for it the triple 140mm front mounting (that still can't fit a 420mm rad it seems), and the third 3.5 hard drive mount behind the tray (R6 can only take 2 apparently). Measured temperatures and noise levels are within margin of error, all while sporting a near identical MSRP to the R6.

An Arc R3 possibility seems to drift further and further away by each passing day.


----------



## Gruff

similarly I don't really see what an updated Arc Midi would provide that an R6 doesn't


----------



## jonny27

Gruff said:


> similarly I don't really see what an updated Arc Midi would provide that an R6 doesn't


Open panels to maximize airflow? You don't see a point in the Meshify either?


----------



## 331149

I'm gonna be so mad if they release a C2 less than a week after I grabbed the first one. Grr .. Grr


----------



## Fractal Design

HeyThereGuy said:


> Will a Hardwarelabs 360mm GTS X-Flow rad fit in the front of the R6?


It should. The ODD cage would need to be removed but I can't see any other conflicts. The max size for a front rad in standard layout w/o ODD is 420 x 154 x 40 mm (65mm including the fans), and your rad looks to fall well within that limit. The max width in open layout as actually a tad smaller at 150 mm, but there's no practical limit on thickness in that configuration.


----------



## Fractal Design

Gruff said:


> similarly I don't really see what an updated Arc Midi would provide that an R6 doesn't


I have seen some R6 owners leaving the front door off/open for extra airflow, and it doesn't look bad but I do think it would be nice if we could give those users a more elegant option for that sort of configuration, which is basically what Arc is all about. There's Meshify of course, but not everyone is done with their 5.25" bays just yet.


----------



## nickt1862

Dear Fractal Design Hardware Rep,

Will an R5 door fit an R6? If so is there any way I can purchase a white door from an R5 and how much in USD. 

Thanks!


----------



## jonny27

Fractal Design said:


> I have seen some R6 owners leaving the front door off/open for extra airflow, and it doesn't look bad but I do think it would be nice if we could give those users a more elegant option for that sort of configuration, which is basically what Arc is all about. There's Meshify of course, but not everyone is done with their 5.25" bays just yet.


Honestly my preference for the Arc vs. the Meshify is split between the increased depth, and the 5.25 bay, I find its larger size from 3.5 great for decoupling hdd's. My current R2 is great, but it could use a refresh in a couple features used today.
Plus, as personal taste I prefer the flush grill over the Meshify's patterned one.


----------



## songi

nickt1862 said:


> Dear Fractal Design Hardware Rep,
> 
> Will an R5 door fit an R6? If so is there any way I can purchase a white door from an R5 and how much in USD.
> 
> Thanks!


Also want to know about this as well. I hate the black front on the white model and would love a front like the R5. Also wondering if that little removable PSU cover on the new Define S2 will fit on the Define R6 and if so, will they be purchasable in the future?


----------



## Excession

Fractal Design said:


> I have seen some R6 owners leaving the front door off/open for extra airflow, and it doesn't look bad but I do think it would be nice if we could give those users a more elegant option for that sort of configuration, which is basically what Arc is all about. There's Meshify of course, but not everyone is done with their 5.25" bays just yet.



You could take a bit of inspiration from Caselabs and come up with a way to mount fans or a drive bay anywhere along the front of the case. Accessing any drives would be a bit awkward with mesh covering the entire front, though. You'd probably want to make the mesh front swing open like a door or something.


----------



## lostsupper

When will the Define S2 be available in North America?


----------



## Gruff

Fractal Design said:


> I have seen some R6 owners leaving the front door off/open for extra airflow, and it doesn't look bad but I do think it would be nice if we could give those users a more elegant option for that sort of configuration, which is basically what Arc is all about. There's Meshify of course, but not everyone is done with their 5.25" bays just yet.


If i had an R6 I would also just leave the door open while gaming and close it later when doing other things that require less cpu or gpu usage. It would be a good way to alternate between airflow and noise reduction.


----------



## dynastes

Fractal Design said:


> I have seen some R6 owners leaving the front door off/open for extra airflow, and it doesn't look bad but I do think it would be nice if we could give those users a more elegant option for that sort of configuration, which is basically what Arc is all about. There's Meshify of course, but not everyone is done with their 5.25" bays just yet.


So ... Arc Midi R3 coming this year confirmed then?


----------



## Bi5h0p

I hope that Nano S2 is around the corner


----------



## Offler

Fractal Design said:


> I have seen some R6 owners leaving the front door off/open for extra airflow, and it doesn't look bad but I do think it would be nice if we could give those users a more elegant option for that sort of configuration, which is basically what Arc is all about. There's Meshify of course, but not everyone is done with their 5.25" bays just yet.


One question regarding Node 804...

I am convinced that this case is almost perfect, there only one thing i realized which can be useful... See the image.

I planned to put up to 2 graphic cards (2slot in size) in the AsRock x399M Taichi mainboard, while use the PCI-E x16 slot in the middle for either 100gbit network card or some crazy storage solution (4x M.2 converter), however...

Would it be possible to place a PCI-E riser at the bottom of the case and mount another graphic card vertically?


----------



## Fractal Design

nickt1862 said:


> Dear Fractal Design Hardware Rep,
> 
> Will an R5 door fit an R6? If so is there any way I can purchase a white door from an R5 and how much in USD.
> 
> Thanks!


I must have missed it when you asked the first time; sorry about that.

The doors are shaped a bit differently from the R5 to the R6 but I decided to try it myself out of pure curiosity, and though you surprisingly can get the R5 door mounted on the R6's hinges with some effort, the difference in thickness and inside contour prevents it from closing. So no, the R5 door won't fit the R6. Not without major modification, anyway.

There certainly do seem to be some mixed opinions on the front panel color for the white R6/S2 and I have been passing that feedback along to the PD team, but for now the best suggestion I can think to offer would be to consider doing a custom wrap such as one of these: 

https://www.slickwraps.com/devices/computers/computer-cases/define-r6.html


----------



## Fractal Design

lostsupper said:


> When will the Define S2 be available in North America?


I got confirmation today that Newegg received them so it should be any time now.


----------



## Fractal Design

Offler said:


> One question regarding Node 804...
> 
> I am convinced that this case is almost perfect, there only one thing i realized which can be useful... See the image.
> 
> I planned to put up to 2 graphic cards (2slot in size) in the AsRock x399M Taichi mainboard, while use the PCI-E x16 slot in the middle for either 100gbit network card or some crazy storage solution (4x M.2 converter), however...
> 
> Would it be possible to place a PCI-E riser at the bottom of the case and mount another graphic card vertically?


I hesitate to say it's impossible but it would certainly be a challenge, and given how close the 2nd GPU would have to be to the side panel I'm not sure it would make cooling any easier. I imagine an infiniband card would get pretty toasty wedged between two GPUs though, so I can see where you might have to get creative. To say the least it would certainly be pushing the envelope for a MicroATX build.


----------



## nickt1862

Fractal Design said:


> I must have missed it when you asked the first time; sorry about that.
> 
> The doors are shaped a bit differently from the R5 to the R6 but I decided to try it myself out of pure curiosity, and though you surprisingly can get the R5 door mounted on the R6's hinges with some effort, the difference in thickness and inside contour prevents it from closing. So no, the R5 door won't fit the R6. Not without major modification, anyway.
> 
> There certainly do seem to be some mixed opinions on the front panel color for the white R6/S2 and I have been passing that feedback along to the PD team, but for now the best suggestion I can think to offer would be to consider doing a custom wrap such as one of these:
> 
> https://www.slickwraps.com/devices/computers/computer-cases/define-r6.html


Thanks for all you have done. Too bad it doesn't fit, but the price tag for the wrap is too excessive especially when it's only for the front door. Cheaper to get white shelf paper to line the door, but I could never be able to put that on smoothly so that idea was not much of one lol! Maybe your company can come out with a white door that can be ordered to satisfy their dissatisfied R6 customer base. In a small way I wished I ordered a white R5, but really wanted the USB-C top I/O that the R6 revision has and that I'm using now. I look at the front of the door and my stomach gets a tad uneasy, so then I look at the rest of the white color of the case. 

Attachment (White Define R5) I want this look!!!!!!! Help me Fractal Design!!!!!!!! Please!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Offler

Fractal Design said:


> I hesitate to say it's impossible but it would certainly be a challenge, and given how close the 2nd GPU would have to be to the side panel I'm not sure it would make cooling any easier. I imagine an infiniband card would get pretty toasty wedged between two GPUs though, so I can see where you might have to get creative. To say the least it would certainly be pushing the envelope for a MicroATX build.


Well... In the end i decided to not go for multi-GPU solution. I managed to install FuryX in a PCI-E slot, while its AIO radiator is placed in the right chamber. Both CPU and GPU are then getting fresh air, while the pollution with heat within the system is minimal. I am considering to add another 12cm fan behind GPU radiator, but thats about it. It almost looks like the parts were picked with this configuration in mind, but i purchased GPU one year earlier.

BTW, ref design FuryX with AIO cooler perfectly passed throught the cutout meant for the cables. You just have to mount radiator first. If I would get custom cables (or tidy them up a little bit) i could mount the drive cage to the bottom (but i need to get 4th rail for the disk cage).

As I checked again the case pictures here:
https://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-804

The rear mesh next to PCI-E slots seems to almost fit to size of a standard graphic PCI-E card with 2-slot thickness.

Mounting 2 GPUs on that board and case is no issue. Mounting 3rd while keeping the size restrictions... Either mod on GPU for 1x size waterblock, or simpler PCI-E riser mounted to the bottom, with cable long enough to reach any of the 3 slots. Also I imagine the 12cm exhaust fan in the left chamber cannot be moved upwards, as there has to be some space for 240 radiator + it has to be alligned with CPU fan (if present).


When speaking of the mainboard, AsRock x399M allows up to Threadripper 2990wx. Each of the three PCI-E slots isl 3.0 16x (full ATX version of this board has two 16x and two 8x).

So... when I look at this case, i can see up to:
32 physical cores
3 GPUs
8x 3.5 inch drive in cages (if cables are properly managed)
2x 2.5 inch drives in the front, eventually optical drive

If all PCI-E slots are occupied there wont be much place for drives at the bottom...
CPU would require water, so ... either 280 radiator in right chamber or 240 in the left.

All this packed in mATX case... My aircooled 1900x with 1 gpu with AIO waterblock looks tame in comparisom 

Even when the possibilities i described are for my personal use really over the top (i took Node 804 because of possible 2x GPU solution), adding an option for a PCI-E riser on the left bottom - specifically for boards with PCI-E slots like AsRock x399M would expand the possibilities of mATX cube format a lot.


----------



## songi

Fractal Design said:


> I hesitate to say it's impossible but it would certainly be a challenge, and given how close the 2nd GPU would have to be to the side panel I'm not sure it would make cooling any easier. I imagine an infiniband card would get pretty toasty wedged between two GPUs though, so I can see where you might have to get creative. To say the least it would certainly be pushing the envelope for a MicroATX build.


Do you happen to know if that little removable PSU cover on the Define S2 would fit on the Define R6 as well? And if they plan to be sold for R6 owners at a later time


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi all, I need some help from you as I am planning to water cool my current rig:

- 8700K @ 5Ghz
- Geforce 1080 Ti @ 2000 Mhz

I am planning to install the following radiators and fans:

- Front: HWL Black Ice GTX 360 with 3 Corsair ML 120 Pro in pull configuration spinning at 800 rpm when full load.
- Top: HWL Black Ice GTS 360 with 3 Corsair ML 120 Pro in push configuration spinning at 800 rpm when full load.

My candidate is the Fractal Define R6, with solid panels. I am aiming to silence while maintaining nice temperatures. Do you think this is possible with my setup, the idea I have for my WC confing and the Define R6? 

Can anyone that have a similar config share his impresions and temperatures?

Many thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## ExcellentAmp

MoDeNa said:


> Hi all, I need some help from you as I am planning to water cool my current rig:
> 
> - 8700K @ 5Ghz
> - Geforce 1080 Ti @ 2000 Mhz
> 
> I am planning to install the following radiators and fans:
> 
> - Front: HWL Black Ice GTX 360 with 3 Corsair ML 120 Pro in pull configuration spinning at 800 rpm when full load.
> - Top: HWL Black Ice GTS 360 with 3 Corsair ML 120 Pro in push configuration spinning at 800 rpm when full load.
> 
> My candidate is the Fractal Define R6, with solid panels. I am aiming to silence while maintaining nice temperatures. Do you think this is possible with my setup, the idea I have for my WC confing and the Define R6?
> 
> Can anyone that have a similar config share his impresions and temperatures?
> 
> Many thanks in advance for your help!


So I understand this isn't apples to apples as far as comparisons go but, my rig consists of a 6700k (oc to 4.6ghz)and a 1080 (oc to 2000mhz) with 2 Nemesis GTS 360s. I'm using the eLoops by Noiseblocker both in push in a Define S. My delta T (coolant temp minus ambient) is ~7-8 under gaming load. The card never gets above 46*C and the cpu never gets above 65*C running prime95 with an ambient temp of 23*C. The fans are on a modest curve spinning from about 800rpm on idle up to 1100rpm under gaming load playing @ 3440x1440. 
That being said, I suspect you can expect similar results or perhaps slightly better because your rads are less restrictive than mine. I'm only using one D5 pump, the Aquacomputer Aquabus variant. The rig is relatively silent and it sits only a couple of feet away.
Hope this helps :thumb:


----------



## Fractal Design

songi said:


> Do you happen to know if that little removable PSU cover on the Define S2 would fit on the Define R6 as well? And if they plan to be sold for R6 owners at a later time


With the Define R6 in open layout it does. They may be available at https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/ at some point but there aren't currently any plans to sell them separately as a retail part.


----------



## MoDeNa

ExcellentAmp said:


> So I understand this isn't apples to apples as far as comparisons go but, my rig consists of a 6700k (oc to 4.6ghz)and a 1080 (oc to 2000mhz) with 2 Nemesis GTS 360s. I'm using the eLoops by Noiseblocker both in push in a Define S. My delta T (coolant temp minus ambient) is ~7-8 under gaming load. The card never gets above 46*C and the cpu never gets above 65*C running prime95 with an ambient temp of 23*C. The fans are on a modest curve spinning from about 800rpm on idle up to 1100rpm under gaming load playing @ 3440x1440.
> That being said, I suspect you can expect similar results or perhaps slightly better because your rads are less restrictive than mine. I'm only using one D5 pump, the Aquacomputer Aquabus variant. The rig is relatively silent and it sits only a couple of feet away.
> Hope this helps :thumb:


Many thanks for your help, it is much appreciated. More or less is what I can expect from the config I have in mind. I think the best choice will be going with two HWL GTS 360 because at the rpms I will be using the fans thicker radiators do not make any difference as I read in some reviews.

One more question, is your 6700k delidded? I guess the answer is positive, but just to double check. 

Many thanks again!


----------



## ExcellentAmp

One more question, is your 6700k delidded? I guess the answer is positive, but just to double check. 

It's not delidded. I don't do a fair amount of cpu intensive applications, mostly gaming but I do run prime95 every now and again to confirm the efficiency of my loop.


----------



## songi

Fractal Design said:


> With the Define R6 in open layout it does. They may be available at https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/ at some point but there aren't currently any plans to sell them separately as a retail part.


thanks for the info! :thumb: I will keep hoping for an all white R6 more than the little cover aha


----------



## Caveat

My Fractal Design Refine R6

Specs:
Intel i7-7700K (cooled by NZXT Kraken x62)
Asus ROG Maximus IX Formula
16GB GEIL Memory
Samsung 970 EVO 500GB
Asus Strix GTX1070
Seasonic Gold 750W
LG 29” ultrawide


----------



## JackCY

What's the figurine name? It's missing on the specs list.


----------



## CustomRigsDe




----------



## nickt1862

So has Fractal Design come out with a white door for the Define R6 yet?


----------



## Fractal Design

nickt1862 said:


> So has Fractal Design come out with a white door for the Define R6 yet?


I wish we were that fast. That would be amazing.


----------



## nickt1862

Fractal Design said:


> I wish we were that fast. That would be amazing.


Sounds like they would fail if they had to work in NYC, NY USA lol!

Please tell them to "step on it" to make it available for many R6 owners (like me) and others here who would probably purchase it.

If you can please let us here know when it becomes available, it would be so very appreciated!

Thanks for your prompt response.


----------



## JackCY

Why not grab a can of Montana 94 white?

Personally I don't mind the switch of white models to a dark front face. Gives it more character.


----------



## Gruff

I've noticed Newegg's US site has the Define S tempered glass panels in stock again but Newegg Canada only has the panel for the R5 listed on their site. I hope we don't get left out.


----------



## thedosbox

@Fractal Design - any plans for a White Meshify C with the dark tempered glass panel? I'd prefer a solid panel, but assume it'd be easier for Fractal to offer dark glass given it's already on the black Meshify.


----------



## 331149

Quick question; I'm getting a sort of electrical smell from my pc exhaust, and it's been running for nearly 14 days with this smell.
I then smelled the other fan that was included with the case (Define C) it's not plugged in, and it smelled the same. Does your Fractal fans stink? Because mine sure does.


----------



## Fractal Design

TheBDK said:


> Quick question; I'm getting a sort of electrical smell from my pc exhaust, and it's been running for nearly 14 days with this smell.
> I then smelled the other fan that was included with the case (Define C) it's not plugged in, and it smelled the same. Does your Fractal fans stink? Because mine sure does.


I would think most hardware has that new-electronics smell to some degree when it's fresh out of the box, but I'd never heard any complaints about it before. Running it plugged in might help dissipate the scent more quickly but either way I'd expect it to go away on its own before too long.


----------



## Fractal Design

thedosbox said:


> @Fractal Design - any plans for a White Meshify C with the dark tempered glass panel? I'd prefer a solid panel, but assume it'd be easier for Fractal to offer dark glass given it's already on the black Meshify.


I couldn't really say since I'm not able to comment on potential products or future release plans and such, but we do take note pretty much every time someone asks for something we don't currently offer.


----------



## thedosbox

Fractal Design said:


> I couldn't really say since I'm not able to comment on potential products or future release plans and such, but we do take note pretty much every time someone asks for something we don't currently offer.


Not even if I send you some cute cat pics? 

FYI, you may want to tell whoever admins the FD website that NCIX is no longer in business - but they're still listed as a Canadian reseller on the "Where to buy" page.


----------



## JackCY

TheBDK said:


> This is really something you should have researched prior to buying the case. It's a silly idea to make them longer when they are supposed to be compact cases. Want more room? Get a bigger case.





thedosbox said:


> Not even if I send you some cute cat pics?
> 
> FYI, you may want to tell whoever admins the FD website that NCIX is no longer in business - but they're still listed as a Canadian reseller on the "Where to buy" page.


Why not buy the side panel as a spare part? Or buy two cases, swap parts and then sell the rest you don't want as "brand new open box", or share it with a friend who doesn't care about what case colors they get but just needs any case.

---

I've fit 3x140mm into a non S2 case, finally got to cutting the case up, moving grommets - enlarging the opening so 90deg angle connectors from mobo can go right in there, cutting all grills from case even where I didn't use those fan slots, modifying fan covers so they sit flush when mounted when grills are cut out.

Only thing I never like in any case is HDD mounting, such a pain. I can sure see why R6 and S2 have no rolled edge on mobo plate, it's so that for example S2 can fit HDDs the way it does otherwise connectors sticking out of HDD won't fit as there wouldn't be enough empty space between mobo plate and side panel. Think I will continue to suspend my HDDs on a bungee string, I could fit in a 5 HDD bay and have frontal HDD removal for 4 positions but it's so much work to mount it precisely and when filled with drives it will block airflow anyway so why bother.

All expansion card bars are cut out, no more airflow obstruction from GPU vent. Vent cut out where a vertical expansion card mount was.

Even after all cut outs and removing 5.25" bay the case is still sturdy and doesn't move a bit, didn't have to replace 5.25" bay with reinforcement in corners.

Tomorrow it's probably making new thicker feet as old ones I have are higher than stock but kind of too much hand made DIY butchery on those, either add 4 wooden feet or rather make 2 bars with filter cut out for filter to pass through.

I still don't get it why most cases barely support 140mm nowadays let alone 3x140mm on front panel. FD is better at the 140mm fan options than others but the S2 is first that supports 3x up front. It's not much cutting to fit 3x140mm in front but making the fan mounts and covering opening slits around fans takes time. At least I have small and larger pieces of stainless steel sheets to pick from and don't have to cut and don't even have where to cut any large sheets, either metal scissors or dremel cut what I need.

Next trick will be to cut and filter up the front plastic door frame as I won't be using the front fan holder and 2x140mm filter anymore.

The steel on this older FD case is 1mm thick all around, not hard to cut but it does take time and eat dremel wheels, metal dremel wheel works too but I didn't want to burn my dremel as it loves to bite more when cutting longer sections. A good high speed high torque dremel should have no problem chewing the 1mm FD metal even with metal wheels that don't wear off.

Will try post pictures when it's finished.


----------



## thedosbox

JackCY said:


> Why not buy the side panel as a spare part? Or buy two cases, swap parts and then sell the rest you don't want as "brand new open box", or share it with a friend who doesn't care about what case colors they get but just needs any case.


Because it's a waste of money to do so. Few people I know locally build their own machines, and shipping a case is expensive.


----------



## JackCY

thedosbox said:


> Because it's a waste of money to do so. Few people I know locally build their own machines, and shipping a case is expensive.


Shipping varies, in Europe shipping a 15kg box with monitor or a 10kg case or 2kg shoe box is not much different in price.

They seem to sell at least these:

https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Meshify-C-Left-Side-Black-Tempered-Glass-Dark-Tint
https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Meshify-C-Left-Side-Black-Tempered-Glass

Or just buy a generic darkening foil and put it over the not as dark glass you can buy with your case. Used to be done on cars all the time back in the day, not so much nowadays maybe when cars mostly have tinted windows without extra $$$.


----------



## thedosbox

JackCY said:


> Shipping varies, in Europe shipping a 15kg box with monitor or a 10kg case or 2kg shoe box is not much different in price.
> 
> They seem to sell at least these:
> 
> https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Meshify-C-Left-Side-Black-Tempered-Glass-Dark-Tint
> https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Meshify-C-Left-Side-Black-Tempered-Glass
> 
> Or just buy a generic darkening foil and put it over the not as dark glass you can buy with your case. Used to be done on cars all the time back in the day, not so much nowadays maybe when cars mostly have tinted windows without extra $$$.


Distances in Canada are a little larger  To ship a case the size and weight of a Meshify C costs a minimum of $35. More with tracking numbers. On a case that's $110 new.

I did think about tinting it myself, but I've seen too many car windows with air bubbles that look really bad.


----------



## nickt1862

Fractal Design said:


> I couldn't really say since I'm not able to comment on potential products or future release plans and such, but we do take note pretty much every time someone asks for something we don't currently offer.


I don't doubt you do your part, but what does the FD brass do about it?

Any company should provide the customer what they want at a price of course.

I bet that Fractal Design could create a Horizontal ATX computer case between a Cooler Master HAF XB and Corsair Air 540 (not really horizontal) with Define R6 quietness, cooling and easy dust filtering cleanup - wondering if it's even thought of at the R & D dept., at FD. There aren't enough Horizontal computer case choices out there IMHO and an opportunity if FB isn't "blind".


----------



## Caveat

JackCY said:


> What's the figurine name? It's missing on the specs list.


It is Mato Kuroi from Black Rock Shooter


----------



## Bill Owen

This S2 Case Mod was requested by many FD case owners. 






Materials Needed for Front PC Bezel Window Mod.
1x 1/8" thick 24" x 12" sheet of clear acrylic
1x 1/16" thiock sheet of 24" x 12" cast clear acrylic
1x 24" x 12" sheet of Round Modder's Mesh
8x 6/32 thread x 1/2" long flat head socket head cap screws


Hand and Power Tools Needed for Front Bezel Window Case Mod.
*Measuring Square / Ruler
*Rotary Tool (Dremel) with cutting wheel
*Jigsaw with bimetal cutting blade
*Hand File
*Vertical or Band Saw
*Power Drill with 1/8" drill bit for plastics (mnpctech)
*SciGrip #4 Acrylic Cement
*Modeler or Hobbyist Paint Brush
*Scotchbrite Pad (Med) to scuff surface of PC bezel
*Cotton Towel to clean PC bezel after scuffing
*Rustoleum X2 Painters Touch Flat White for define S2 case.


----------



## 331149

Fractal Design said:


> I would think most hardware has that new-electronics smell to some degree when it's fresh out of the box, but I'd never heard any complaints about it before. Running it plugged in might help dissipate the scent more quickly but either way I'd expect it to go away on its own before too long.


Oh I wasn't complaining, just asking. In the past I've forgotten to remove thin plastic film on the motherboard and it smelled the same until I removed it. However I've looked it over and can't find any, but my cpu cooler is blocking the view quite a bit (nh-d14). I'm just making sure that I haven't overlooked anything yet again  It's just odd that after some 14 days, the smell is still there.


----------



## JackCY

Considering the gallery feature on OCN is dead, would anyone be interested in an FD Define modding thread/log? Mostly can take pictures of final result and it will give you an idea of what you can chop the hell out of a case to improve airflow, filters, cooling performance while not giving up low noise.

Conversion to front filter removal.
Filters upgrade.
Front 3x140mm fan conversion.
Better PSU and bottom fan cut out.
All grills removal + other airflow streamlining.
Suspended HDD mounting.
Extra tie points to control cables.
Extra cut outs for ventilation.
Extra dampening.


----------



## Offler

Fractal Design said:


> ..


Few pages i posted my config within Node 804:
https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...actal-design-case-club-1676.html#post27653864

Also to remind ... whole point for me to choose Node 804 was two chamber design which on one hand allows me to reuse my old raid for storage purposes, on other - and more importanlty allowed me to install GPU and its Radiator into two different chambers.

Did some stress testing with OCCT Linpack and 90% mem usage, the test was conducted at 22-23°C ambient temperature.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=227686&d=1540750261 
There is some heat transfer from CPU to GPU - temps went up by 4°C on GPU core.

I did similar test while stressing GPU only and CPU temps went up by 6°C - however CPU was also tasked to generate the load. At stock settings the GPU peaked at 70°C, but when i set the fan to quite noisier 2000RPM it went down to 54°C.

Overall it took longer time for GPU to gain limit temperature, where it was not getting any hotter, but also it took more time to cool it down. The radiator of GPU was giving out much more heat compared to CPU (not surprising asi its 180W TDP vs 275W). I will probably mount a 800-1200 RPM fan and put the FuryX radiator into "sandwich".

You can definitely mark me as a satisfied customer ,


----------



## Gruff

Planning an mATX build but I'm a bit torn between the Define C mini and the Meshify C mini. The Meshify C mini has the better thermals but I find the tint to be a bit too dark. The Define C has the clear window but the airflow won't be as good as the Meshify C mini. 


I also hope Fractal releases an ultra compact itx case that could rival something like the ncase m1 or loque ghost, but have a cheaper price since the two mentioned are a bit too heft in terms of cost.


----------



## thedosbox

Gruff said:


> Planning an mATX build but I'm a bit torn between the Define C mini and the Meshify C mini. The Meshify C mini has the better thermals but I find the tint to be a bit too dark. The Define C has the clear window but the airflow won't be as good as the Meshify C mini.


The regular Meshify is only 40mm taller than the Mini, has an option for clear vs tinted glass, and will support both mATX or ATX. Given motherboard manufacturers seem to be moving away from mATX in favour of ITX (see the lack of X470 mATX boards), it might be worth considering if you plan on reusing the case for future builds.


----------



## JackCY

New filter frames, grinded one bit too much, can't see it when it's in a vice, it's rear of case anyway.
Hopefully that last cutting, grinding and sanding.

This is where two of those frames go:


----------



## madbrayniak

Can someone measure the distance between the case feet on the R6 for me? My wife's desk has a cubby for a tower but it is only 17" deep. THere is space behind it so I may be able to modify it with some plywood to get some extra length but would prefer leaving it alone...


----------



## vonHannawald

Is it possible to fit 3 x 140 mm fans or at least 3 x TY-147/TY-143 in the front and one 140 mm fan or TY-14x at the bottom into the Meshify C?


----------



## JackCY

vonHannawald said:


> Is it possible to fit 3 x 140 mm fans or at least 3 x TY-147/TY-143 in the front and one 140 mm fan or TY-14x at the bottom into the Meshify C?


I would say no because you're missing around 15mm of space height wise. And that would be TY fans are even larger than standard 140mm in one dimension they are 150 something mm.
You need around 25mm at the top to clear cables from I/O, so 3x140 = 420+25 = 445mm without feet + a few mm for metal thickness and gaps between fans... and you're at 450mm+ and that is what the Define cases are, only S2 can fit 3x140mm front or you have to mod the define case like I did.


----------



## haris013

First time experience with FD products.

Couldn't be happier! 



















The whole setup


----------



## thedosbox

Question for the Meshify C owners - what do you need to remove to install front fans?

Various reviews have mentioned that the front of the case is tethered to the main chassis, but it's unclear if you need to do that, or whether you just need to remove the filter panel.

[edit] nvm, found a video showing how the mesh can be removed without removing the front bezel


----------



## ihatelolcats

can you put 3 120mm fans in the front of the define mini c?


----------



## JackCY

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-mini-c


----------



## Fractal Design

madbrayniak said:


> Can someone measure the distance between the case feet on the R6 for me? My wife's desk has a cubby for a tower but it is only 17" deep. THere is space behind it so I may be able to modify it with some plywood to get some extra length but would prefer leaving it alone...


I measured 193 mm width and 375mm depth center-to-center. The feet themselves are about 33mm diameter at the base and taper up to 29mm.


----------



## Gruff

I visited a friend over the weekend that does custom PC builds for others and I got a chance to appreciate the size of the Meshify C, and how much it offers in such a compact package. 

He was working on a customers build using a Corsair 280X which is a mATX case, and also another build that was using the Meshify C. The Meshify C looked like it had the smaller footprint and was only about a hand's width taller.

My friends personal build is in an NZXT H400 which is also an mATX case and compared to the Meshify C they looked to be roughly the same size, give or take an inch at the various dimensions. 

Meshify C really is an amazing case.


----------



## Gruff

Bill Owen said:


> This S2 Case Mod was requested by many FD case owners.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Eo3zmecAzE
> 
> Materials Needed for Front PC Bezel Window Mod.
> 1x 1/8" thick 24" x 12" sheet of clear acrylic
> 1x 1/16" thiock sheet of 24" x 12" cast clear acrylic
> 1x 24" x 12" sheet of Round Modder's Mesh
> 8x 6/32 thread x 1/2" long flat head socket head cap screws
> 
> 
> Hand and Power Tools Needed for Front Bezel Window Case Mod.
> *Measuring Square / Ruler
> *Rotary Tool (Dremel) with cutting wheel
> *Jigsaw with bimetal cutting blade
> *Hand File
> *Vertical or Band Saw
> *Power Drill with 1/8" drill bit for plastics (mnpctech)
> *SciGrip #4 Acrylic Cement
> *Modeler or Hobbyist Paint Brush
> *Scotchbrite Pad (Med) to scuff surface of PC bezel
> *Cotton Towel to clean PC bezel after scuffing
> *Rustoleum X2 Painters Touch Flat White for define S2 case.


Love the mods that you guys do. I wish I had the patience, skill and space to do some of those.


----------



## Bronson

Hi, Ive got my hands on an used Fractal Nano in perfect condition, I really like this case, bar the acriclic windows that looks cheap specially because of that bezel design...yet I really like it. 

Right now I have 4 cases, don't even ask, troubled times. The thing is that my main case has become a NZXT S340 Elite (while I'm selling my old and loved Corsair AIR 540). I also have the Fractal Nano (that I should sell, but I don't want to do it) and a generic ****ty matx case...is there any possibility without implying any serious or even simple modding, to fit a matx in my fractal? 

It's just an old rig, a 775 modded for old Xeons that I plan to give it to one of my brothers and I've thought that instead of selling the Nano I might try to fit the old Asrock G41M-VS3 in it. Anyone tried anything similar? thanxs in advance


----------



## MoDeNa

Hi guys,

This is my Fractal Define R6 after moving from a CaseLabs BH2. I am very happy with it. It is a very good case and the performance in terms of silence is superb.

These are some pics:











Cheers!


----------



## JackCY

The most hideous and overpriced fans strike again.


----------



## ihatelolcats

what do you guys think the chances are for a sale on fractal cases soon? specifically the mini c. i saw it at newegg today for $73 including shipping


----------



## LazarusIV

@FractalDesign any plans for a revised FD Define Mini? That would be my automatic go-to case if I switch to mATX... That Define C Mini is great, but I think I like the flexibility of the regular Define R6 brought into mATX form more...


----------



## Fractal Design

Leemarvin said:


> Hi, Ive got my hands on an used Fractal Nano in perfect condition, I really like this case, bar the acriclic windows that looks cheap specially because of that bezel design...yet I really like it.
> 
> Right now I have 4 cases, don't even ask, troubled times. The thing is that my main case has become a NZXT S340 Elite (while I'm selling my old and loved Corsair AIR 540). I also have the Fractal Nano (that I should sell, but I don't want to do it) and a generic ****ty matx case...is there any possibility without implying any serious or even simple modding, to fit a matx in my fractal?
> 
> It's just an old rig, a 775 modded for old Xeons that I plan to give it to one of my brothers and I've thought that instead of selling the Nano I might try to fit the old Asrock G41M-VS3 in it. Anyone tried anything similar? thanxs in advance


I wouldn't even attempt to get a MicroATX board in an Mini-ITX case, and that's coming from someone who's installed a 25-year-old 486 in a Meshify C and water cooled it just for comedy value. Even if you were looking for a serious mod project, getting a MicroATX board into a Define Nano S would be extreme hard mode; you'd have to heavily modify several large sections of the chassis, and even then I'm not sure where you'd put a PSU with the board taking up almost every inch of the interior.


----------



## Bronson

MoDeNa said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> This is my Fractal Define R6 after moving from a CaseLabs BH2. I am very happy with it. It is a very good case and the performance in terms of silence is superb.
> 
> These are some pics:
> 
> 
> Cheers!


great build man", when you can you might switcht to some grey or black new Noctuas...maybe the grey ones are from phanteks and I'm confuse


----------



## Bronson

Fractal Design said:


> I wouldn't even attempt to get a MicroATX board in an Mini-ITX case, and that's coming from someone who's installed a 25-year-old 486 in a Meshify C and water cooled it just for comedy value. Even if you were looking for a serious mod project, getting a MicroATX board into a Define Nano S would be extreme hard mode; you'd have to heavily modify several large sections of the chassis, and even then I'm not sure where you'd put a PSU with the board taking up almost every inch of the interior.


Thanks, in such case, no way, I'll see if I hold on my Z370 with the fractal at least some more time and maybe buy a very cheap case for the 775 rig


----------



## thedosbox

JackCY said:


> The most hideous and overpriced fans strike again.


Seeing as you suggested someone attach a fan to the outside of their case, you should probably keep quiet on the topic of aesthetics.


----------



## JackCY

thedosbox said:


> Seeing as you suggested someone attach a fan to the outside of their case, you should probably keep quiet on the topic of aesthetics.


Black fan on the rear of case out of sight looks way better than looking at beige brown Noctua puke. Your cabling so neat you magically route everything to the ground and have nothing on rear with it being super duper clean and free of cables when using the PC?


----------



## dwolvin

Really nice- if you like to look of the fans feel free to ignore the naysayers.


----------



## thedosbox

JackCY said:


> Black fan on the rear of case out of sight looks way better than looking at beige brown Noctua puke. Your cabling so neat you magically route everything to the ground and have nothing on rear with it being super duper clean and free of cables when using the PC?


Putting aside whether a spinning fan hanging outside of the case vs cable clutter are visually comparable, what purpose do you think your comment serves? They built the machine already, and clearly put a lot of work into doing so. Are you going to buy them some new fans that fit your idea of what's acceptable? If you have nothing nice or constructive to say, perhaps keeping quiet would be better.

[edit] appropriately enough, this video just popped up:


----------



## JackCY

Don't expect everyone to love your professional looking photos and taste of beige brown. It's completely normal outside of North America to express any opinion not only "OMG good job, well done, looks awesome, love it". Get used to it. You like to purchase overpriced beige brown fans and they look great to you, why not, it's your damn money. They look ugly and overpriced to me for what they offer. Has nothing to do with "AMD vs Nvidia and the like". The problem with certain communities is that they get hurt over hearing negative comments and only expect praise, especially English speaking communities where North Americans are a majority.


----------



## NewType88

@MoDeNa Man, that's really nice. what are your system specs/OC/thermals/fans speeds under full load ?


----------



## iwalkwithedead

ihatelolcats said:


> can you put 3 120mm fans in the front of the define mini c?


Yes

Cooling system
Front: 3 – 120 or 2 - 140 mm fans (includes 1 Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP12 fan)
Rear: 1 – 120 mm fan (includes 1 Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP12 fan)
Top: 2 - 120/140 mm fan (not included) 
Bottom: 1 – 120 mm fan (not included)


----------



## NewType88

Can anyone water cooling with 2 360mm rads in a R6/S2 tell me what sort of temperatures to expect with fans such as the noctua ippc 2000 rpm fans, running at 1000 RPM with a OC CPU and OC gtx 1080ti/2080ti ? 


Id prefer not to run the fans over 1k for noise.


----------



## thedosbox

JackCY said:


> Don't expect everyone to love your professional looking photos and taste of beige brown. It's completely normal outside of North America to express any opinion not only "OMG good job, well done, looks awesome, love it". Get used to it. You like to purchase overpriced beige brown fans and they look great to you, why not, it's your damn money. They look ugly and overpriced to me for what they offer. Has nothing to do with "AMD vs Nvidia and the like".


You're right, it has nothing to do with AMD vs nvidia, but with subjective opinions. But hey, given your focus on the cheapest price, I guess jealousy is a powerful drug 



> The problem with certain communities is that they get hurt over hearing negative comments and only expect praise, especially English speaking communities where North Americans are a majority.


The problem is that some people's only contribution is to dump on the work of complete strangers to make themselves feel better. Oh hey, I guess that's jealousy kicking in again.


----------



## BucketInABucket

JackCY said:


> Don't expect everyone to love your professional looking photos and taste of beige brown. It's completely normal outside of North America to express any opinion not only "OMG good job, well done, looks awesome, love it". Get used to it. You like to purchase overpriced beige brown fans and they look great to you, why not, it's your damn money. They look ugly and overpriced to me for what they offer. Has nothing to do with "AMD vs Nvidia and the like". The problem with certain communities is that they get hurt over hearing negative comments and only expect praise, especially English speaking communities where North Americans are a majority.


It's fine to have differing opinions, but being rude about it definitely isn't the way to go. This goes for everywhere you go, no matter what culture.


----------



## Phantomas 007

Finally I got a Define R6. Should go and replace the stock fans and what options I have ?


----------



## Abula

Phantomas 007 said:


> Finally I got a Define R6. Should go and replace the stock fans and what options I have ?


 I would recommend you tried them first, they are not bad or great, to me they are average, but for most users they are good enough. If you want go aftermarket, i would consider BeQuiet SilentWing3 140mm, Thermalright TY-147ASQ, Noctua NF-A14 or NF-P14 REDUX, Noiseblocker eLoop B14.


----------



## Gruff

I have 3 Fractal Venturi HF-14 as intakes on my Define S connected to a Phanteks PWM fan hub and honestly they are some of the best intake fans I have used in terms of airflow vs noise. 
If you have radiators in your intake space then go with the HP-14.


----------



## 331149

Phantomas 007 said:


> Finally I got a Define R6. Should go and replace the stock fans and what options I have ?


I think the Dynamic X2 are sort of meh. They dont really push a whole lot of air, but they are silent if you add some rubber washers between them and the case. I personally replaced the intake fans with a couple of NF-A14's and temps dropped instantly. I might add the X2's to the top as exhaust when it's summer time but I'll need a DemciFlex filter first. Oh and I'm using a Define C, which comes with 120mm X2 fans, the R6 comes with 140mm fans so they should work better.


----------



## MoDeNa

JackCY said:


> The most hideous and overpriced fans strike again.


I am happy with them but they are binary, you love them (my case) or you hate them (your case). 
Thanks for comment 



Leemarvin said:


> great build man", when you can you might switcht to some grey or black new Noctuas...maybe the grey ones are from phanteks and I'm confuse


I was considering also de Bequiet SW3 but finally I decided to go with Noctuas due to reviews I've read and the opinion of people who could compare both of them. Anyway I agree that black/grey fans could fit better with the build. 

Thanks for your comment!



JackCY said:


> Don't expect everyone to love your professional looking photos and taste of beige brown. It's completely normal outside of North America to express any opinion not only "OMG good job, well done, looks awesome, love it". Get used to it. You like to purchase overpriced beige brown fans and they look great to you, why not, it's your damn money. They look ugly and overpriced to me for what they offer. Has nothing to do with "AMD vs Nvidia and the like". The problem with certain communities is that they get hurt over hearing negative comments and only expect praise, especially English speaking communities where North Americans are a majority.


Hi again! I only wanted to share my build without any kind of expectation on compliments (the build itself, neither the pictures and the taste of beige brown ). I enjoy building computers and learning from other people's opinion and points of view. I appreciate your honesty and respect your opinion, so for me nothing to worry about.

Thank your for your comment 



NewType88 said:


> @MoDeNa Man, that's really nice. what are your system specs/OC/thermals/fans speeds under full load ?


Hi! The components are:

- CPU: i7 8700K @ 5Ghz (1.232v)
- GPU; Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti @ 2025 Mhz (1.05v)
- Mainboard: ASUS Maximus X Code
- RAM: 2x8 GB DDR4 Gskill Trident Z 3200 Mhz CL14
- 1x m.2 Samsung 960 Pro 512 GB
- 2x SSD Samsung 850 EVO (500GB and 2GB)
- Seasonic Prime Ultra 850W Platinum
- Cablemod ModMesh full kit in carbon

The water cooling setup is:

- 2 x HWL GTS 360 ( front and top)
- 1 x HWL GTS 120 (bottom)
- Singularity Computers D5 pump, acrylic cover and reservoir (200mm)
- CPU block: Heatkiller IV PRO w/ backplate
- GPU block: Heatkiller IV w/ backplate
- Bitspower fittings (sparkle)
- Bitspower PETG tube 16-12
- Aquacomputer flow meter
- Aquaero 6 LT 

The temperatures with all fans spinning at 950 rpm and the pump at 3500 rpm (0.6 GPM) with an ambient temperature of 20ºC are 31º-32ºC for the GPU and around 45-50ºC for the CPU while playing BF5 at 3440x1440p withouf fps limit. The water temp delta is around 11-12ºC

Thanks for comment!



NewType88 said:


> Can anyone water cooling with 2 360mm rads in a R6/S2 tell me what sort of temperatures to expect with fans such as the noctua ippc 2000 rpm fans, running at 1000 RPM with a OC CPU and OC gtx 1080ti/2080ti ?
> 
> Id prefer not to run the fans over 1k for noise.


Have a look at my response to *NewType88*. 


Thanks again for your comments!


----------



## dabianchi

any S2/R6 owner with AIO cooler for OCed CPU and stock fan for OCed GPU can share some temperature data under idle/load?

Thank you so much.


----------



## MazrimCF

dabianchi said:


> any S2/R6 owner with AIO cooler for OCed CPU and stock fan for OCed GPU can share some temperature data under idle/load?
> 
> Thank you so much.


I recently picked up the R6 USB-C. 

Specs
Intel i7 8700k delidded @ 5.1Ghz 1.412v
Corsair H115i set to balance mode front mounted
3 CM Masterfan Pro 120mm airflow RGB fans up top 
1 CM Masterfan Pro 140mm airflow RGB fan in the rear
Those are controlled by AI Suite3 set to silent
Asus ROG Strix 08G RTX 2070GPU Boost ~1980 Memory stock

My temps are as follows

Idle

CPU Package 32c Cores 31-33c 
GPU 31c

Load Aida64 and Valley running for 30 min ambient temp ~20c

CPU Package peak 78c Avg 72
Core Peak 78c Avg 68c

GPU 59c (fans on default)

Hope this helps


----------



## dabianchi

MazrimCF said:


> I recently picked up the R6 USB-C.
> 
> Specs
> Intel i7 8700k delidded @ 5.1Ghz 1.412v
> Corsair H115i set to balance mode front mounted
> 3 CM Masterfan Pro 120mm airflow RGB fans up top
> 1 CM Masterfan Pro 140mm airflow RGB fan in the rear
> Those are controlled by AI Suite3 set to silent
> Asus ROG Strix 08G RTX 2070GPU Boost ~1980 Memory stock
> 
> My temps are as follows
> 
> Idle
> 
> CPU Package 32c Cores 31-33c
> GPU 31c
> 
> Load Aida64 and Valley running for 30 min ambient temp ~20c
> 
> CPU Package peak 78c Avg 72
> Core Peak 78c Avg 68c
> 
> GPU 59c (fans on default)
> 
> Hope this helps


I was in a dilemma on choosing the s2/r6 or the corsair 740. I really like the 740, but it's very bulky. I was a little worried about airflow with s2/r6. But based on the data you posted, I shouldn't worry that much, and it did help on my decision making. Thank you again.


----------



## songi

Has anyone attempted to paint the black panel on the white r6 yet :? seems like they aren't going to get around to making a white panel replacement for it since they have their slickwraps thing this time around :sadsmiley could get one of those but I'm not sure they cover the whole door panel well enough so I'd like to paint it since I'll have to pay for stuff either way. But not sure the best way to go about it cos I don't want the result to be awful hehe


----------



## MoDeNa

@Fractal Design, a question for you 

Do you think that a Define R6 with the Meshify C front panel would be possible as a new cases line? 

Thank you!


----------



## dainfamous

They need to make an define nano itx case with a meshify c front, 3 pcie slots, only sfx power supply, and tempered glass. lol


----------



## Jidonsu

I really like the Define S2 for crap like this. My EK acrylic pump top cracked and started leaking, and I just went ahead and mounted my Monsoon outside for the time being until my Protium stuff comes in.


----------



## Phantomas 007

Today try to install on R6 a Corsair H110i GT on the top, but i can't fit.Any idea if make something wrong and what other choices i have ?


----------



## Fizbin

Does anyone make a case like the Define C but with a 140mm rear fan? It seems everything FB comes out with comes up short for me. The R6 is too big (wide) and expensive. The S and S2 have no drive cage under the shroud. (Optical drives behind the MB with no airflow is a bad idea). the Define C as I already stated has that ridiculous 120mm rear fan. The Meshy C is even worse with no hard top option.


----------



## 331149

TheBDK said:


> Quick question; I'm getting a sort of electrical smell from my pc exhaust, and it's been running for nearly 14 days with this smell.
> I then smelled the other fan that was included with the case (Define C) it's not plugged in, and it smelled the same. Does your Fractal fans stink? Because mine sure does.


To answer my own question; It was the Fractal fans stinking up the place. Replaced both of them with Noctua fans and the stinking stopped (along with better thermals and lower noise).


----------



## a5ian300zx

Looking to get the Meshify C case but torn towards the following.

Dark tempered glass vs light tempered glass version.

Does anyone have any build pictures with rgb? 

I have bought the corsair h115i platinum rgb cooler and g.skills trident z rgb. 

Msi ac carbon motherboard. 

No other leds or led fans. 

Thanks 


Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## broodro0ster

MoDeNa said:


> Hi! The components are:
> 
> - CPU: i7 8700K @ 5Ghz (1.232v)
> - GPU; Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti @ 2025 Mhz (1.05v)
> - Mainboard: ASUS Maximus X Code
> - RAM: 2x8 GB DDR4 Gskill Trident Z 3200 Mhz CL14
> - 1x m.2 Samsung 960 Pro 512 GB
> - 2x SSD Samsung 850 EVO (500GB and 2GB)
> - Seasonic Prime Ultra 850W Platinum
> - Cablemod ModMesh full kit in carbon
> 
> The water cooling setup is:
> 
> - 2 x HWL GTS 360 ( front and top)
> - 1 x HWL GTS 120 (bottom)
> - Singularity Computers D5 pump, acrylic cover and reservoir (200mm)
> - CPU block: Heatkiller IV PRO w/ backplate
> - GPU block: Heatkiller IV w/ backplate
> - Bitspower fittings (sparkle)
> - Bitspower PETG tube 16-12
> - Aquacomputer flow meter
> - Aquaero 6 LT
> 
> The temperatures with all fans spinning at 950 rpm and the pump at 3500 rpm (0.6 GPM) with an ambient temperature of 20ºC are 31º-32ºC for the GPU and around 45-50ºC for the CPU while playing BF5 at 3440x1440p withouf fps limit. The water temp delta is around 11-12ºC


Nice setup, but you're GPU temps are really low. Maybe it's a typo and you mean 41-42°C? 
Since the water would be at 31-32°C (11-12°C delta), I expect the GPU core temp at least 7-8°C higher than the water temp.


----------



## MoDeNa

broodro0ster said:


> Nice setup, but you're GPU temps are really low. Maybe it's a typo and you mean 41-42°C?
> Since the water would be at 31-32°C (11-12°C delta), I expect the GPU core temp at least 7-8°C higher than the water temp.


It is the temperature that MSI Afterburner shows. I also think it is really low but the card is the same I had before, so I don't know if it is some kind of software bug or the sensor got mad or whatever. I don't know how to check if the software is monitoring correctly the GPU temp.

If it helps, the graphics card is the first one in the loop, as it follows: reservoir -> pump -> 120mm rad in bottom -> GPU -> 360mm rad in top -> CPU -> 360mm rad in front -> and starts again in the reservoir


----------



## MazrimCF

Phantomas 007 said:


> Today try to install on R6 a Corsair H110i GT on the top, but i can't fit.Any idea if make something wrong and what other choices i have ?


It doesn't fit that's why I have my 115i mounted in the front.


----------



## thedosbox

a5ian300zx said:


> Looking to get the Meshify C case but torn towards the following.
> 
> Dark tempered glass vs light tempered glass version.
> 
> Does anyone have any build pictures with rgb?


pcparpicker has a gallery of completed builds. This link is for the dark TG version: https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/Y6Crxr


----------



## Phantomas 007

MazrimCF said:


> It doesn't fit that's why I have my 115i mounted in the front.


It's possible any picture to see ? You have also besides the 115i the HDD trays ?


----------



## Blackops_2

Define S2 is on sale at newegg for $120 with free shipping FWIW. I just picked up one because i had a rad bust in my enthoo pro and figured it's time for maintenance and to move to a better case :Lachen:


----------



## Blackops_2

Been reading the vertical PCIE extension for the R6 isn't worth it and doesn't fit right? Got my S2 in and am contemplating using it. Anyone tried it?


----------



## 331149

Got some top light in, now it looks like a fish tank. I really want a dark purple, but asus aura is just slapping me in the face every single time I find an rpg value (or hex). It looks nothing like I see on my monitor.


----------



## wreckless

This may be slightly off topic but i just picked up a Define C for my sig rig and plan to transfer the parts over.

My cpu temps have been really high, idling at 50-65C, so I assume it's time for an upgrade to the stock i7 920 cooler..

I want things to look sleek as the Define C is a smaller case, but all the air coolers I've found online are huge, and I've been told by the air cooler guys that sleek looking liquid clc's like the corsair h60 are garbage.

a) is that true about the h60 being a headache, and b) are there any sleeker air coolers for an LGA1366 that won't take over my Define C?

Thanks, and drool at all the R6 and S2 builds.


----------



## Starbuck5000

Question for anyone using a Meshify C with a front mounted AIO.

Are you running any fans in the roof off the case and if so are they intake or exhaust and why (or why not I guess if you didn't)?


----------



## MazrimCF

Phantomas 007 said:


> It's possible any picture to see ? You have also besides the 115i the HDD trays ?


Yes excuse the lack of cable management but as you can see H115i fans as intake and all of the HDD trays

Edit not sure why the pic is rotated like that and I don't know how to change it back to vertical.


----------



## pewpewlazer

Does anyone have a clever replacement/solution for the insanely restrictive front "filter/grille" piece on the R6? My GPUs had been running warmer than usual since moving into the R6, but I also ditched the obnoxiously loud stock EVGA hybrid cooler fans for some ML120s that run ~1200rpm while gaming, so I figured it was just because of the new fans.

The two AIO radiators are mounted right up front with a single fan in "push" configuration like so: <---- direction of airflow RADIATOR | ML120 FAN | Front filter/grille thing

Today I decided to pull the plastic filter/grille thing off to see what happened (case door wide open before and after)... Dropped 10*C load on both cards in BF5, from ~55C down to ~45C on average. WOWZA!


----------



## Fractal Design

wreckless said:


> This may be slightly off topic but i just picked up a Define C for my sig rig and plan to transfer the parts over.
> 
> My cpu temps have been really high, idling at 50-65C, so I assume it's time for an upgrade to the stock i7 920 cooler..
> 
> I want things to look sleek as the Define C is a smaller case, but all the air coolers I've found online are huge, and I've been told by the air cooler guys that sleek looking liquid clc's like the corsair h60 are garbage.
> 
> a) is that true about the h60 being a headache, and b) are there any sleeker air coolers for an LGA1366 that won't take over my Define C?
> 
> Thanks, and drool at all the R6 and S2 builds.


There are plenty of good CLCs out there that I'd say are fairly sleek looking. 120mm radiators are going to be a bit more limited in terms of cooling capacity, but even then it just depends on what you're needing from it. It's a bit more of an investment since they only come in 240mm and 360mm sizes, but I can definitely recommend our Celsius coolers if you're wanting something that both looks clean and has some hefty cooling capability. It's got a fan hub built into the radiator and the cables are built into the tubing, so it definitely makes for an easy job of cable management.


----------



## tostitobandito

Starbuck5000 said:


> Question for anyone using a Meshify C with a front mounted AIO.
> 
> Are you running any fans in the roof off the case and if so are they intake or exhaust and why (or why not I guess if you didn't)?


Here's my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/q39J7P


The answer is yes and I use them as exhuast. I have three intake in the front, one intake in the bottom, two exhaust in the top, and one exhaust in the rear. 

The furthest rear top fan is especially good as an exhaust since it pulls hot air from around the VRM (in addition to the rear exhaust). The forward top fan isn't as useful as an exhaust since it's closer to the front intakes, but I still use it as one so I maintain something close to neutral pressure. If you have room a single 140mm top exhaust as far to the rear as possible would probably be fine as well.

I don't think this case is suited to using the top as intakes because it doesn't really leave you with enough exhaust options for maximum airflow. If for example the case had room for additional rear exhaust fans, then maybe the top would be ok as an intake then, but still I don't think it's ideal. There's no point having a 5:2 or 6:1 ratio of intake to exhaust since those extra intakes can't do very much when there's so much positive pressure in the case because it can't get air out fast enough.


----------



## I Am The Stig

Hi all - I'm considering upgrading from my Define R5 (love the case but its beat up and would love the TG look on a new case. With that being said, I'm looking at the Define R6 or the Meshify C. I am both looking for silence and good thermals. I've had decent thermals with the R5 but wondering if it got better or worse with the R6. I've seen from reviews that the Meshify C does have better thermals overall due to its open face, but then again I'm just worried about silence. Any tips? Any optimal setups for both?

Thanks!


----------



## 331149

I Am The Stig said:


> Hi all - I'm considering upgrading from my Define R5 (love the case but its beat up and would love the TG look on a new case. With that being said, I'm looking at the Define R6 or the Meshify C. I am both looking for silence and good thermals. I've had decent thermals with the R5 but wondering if it got better or worse with the R6. I've seen from reviews that the Meshify C does have better thermals overall due to its open face, but then again I'm just worried about silence. Any tips? Any optimal setups for both?
> 
> Thanks!


With silent cases that are packed with sound dampening material, you generally are going to see an increase in temps. However the Define series is made for silence. I'm personally getting great temps using the Define C after I installed some high static pressure fans in the front (Noctua NF-A14). Anyway the Meshify series is indeed made for maximum airflow and not silence. You wont find any sound dampening material on these, but you will have better temps no doubt. Just be aware that both the Define C and Mechify C are smaller in length, so no room for any optical drives if you use that in your R5.


----------



## I Am The Stig

TheBDK said:


> With silent cases that are packed with sound dampening material, you generally are going to see an increase in temps. However the Define series is made for silence. I'm personally getting great temps using the Define C after I installed some high static pressure fans in the front (Noctua NF-A14). Anyway the Meshify series is indeed made for maximum airflow and not silence. You wont find any sound dampening material on these, but you will have better temps no doubt. Just be aware that both the Define C and Mechify C are smaller in length, so no room for any optical drives if you use that in your R5.


How's the noise from your case? Also judging by the fan name you're using 2 140mm? What's your cooling setup?


----------



## 331149

I Am The Stig said:


> How's the noise from your case? Also judging by the fan name you're using 2 140mm? What's your cooling setup?


I can barely hear it, except when on maximum rpm of course but that never happens.
2X NF-A14 intake / 1X NF-S12A exhaust / NH-D14 CPU. Silent cooling in a silent case 

Of course I could rip out the top of the case and add 2 additional fans, but so far I don't really see any reason to. Great temps so far.


----------



## Gorki

I'm planing on re-building my rig using S2 white case, but I'm wondering if case colors/materials are matching and staying the same? I know face is aluminium and frame is steel? What are colors like comparing paint on different materials? 
Also can it fit fat XSPC RX480 rad on top? 
I would really appreciate feedback on this one since this is my No.1 choice specially in white color..,


----------



## Starbuck5000

tostitobandito said:


> Here's my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/q39J7P
> 
> 
> The answer is yes and I use them as exhuast. I have three intake in the front, one intake in the bottom, two exhaust in the top, and one exhaust in the rear.
> 
> The furthest rear top fan is especially good as an exhaust since it pulls hot air from around the VRM (in addition to the rear exhaust). The forward top fan isn't as useful as an exhaust since it's closer to the front intakes, but I still use it as one so I maintain something close to neutral pressure. If you have room a single 140mm top exhaust as far to the rear as possible would probably be fine as well.
> 
> I don't think this case is suited to using the top as intakes because it doesn't really leave you with enough exhaust options for maximum airflow. If for example the case had room for additional rear exhaust fans, then maybe the top would be ok as an intake then, but still I don't think it's ideal. There's no point having a 5:2 or 6:1 ratio of intake to exhaust since those extra intakes can't do very much when there's so much positive pressure in the case because it can't get air out fast enough.


Thank you for such a detailed reply!

I'll be running 2x140's in the front with an AIO and a 120 in the rear but I was worried that as you say, the furthest forward top mounted fans wouldn't do a whole lot of good but maybe one at the rear top would be good.

I was thinking of having as balanced an airflow as possible (or if not positive leaning) so maybe some slow speed roof exhausts would give the best balance?


----------



## JackCY

Gorki said:


> I'm planing on re-building my rig using S2 white case, but I'm wondering if case colors/materials are matching and staying the same? I know face is aluminium and frame is steel? What are colors like comparing paint on different materials?
> Also can it fit fat XSPC RX480 rad on top?
> I would really appreciate feedback on this one since this is my No.1 choice specially in white color..,


On R4 even the steel panels can be a little different paint job than the chassis...
Alu front pieces when persent are glued on the plastic door, they don't really fade or anything. Neither does the case paint or plastics. All that will happen is collect dust and oils from your hands, such as rough painted side panel may look brighter because it's more rough matte and collects stuff more easily.

I wouldn't worry about colors and longevity these days at not on black cases. On white yeah that's a tricky question and more to do with how good of a UV stable paint is used and UV stable plastics. I don't remember people reporting yellowing etc. on white cases but it was a common thing on 80-90s bright plastic PC cases. Paints and pigments have moved on since then as well as possible UV protections.


----------



## tostitobandito

Starbuck5000 said:


> Thank you for such a detailed reply!
> 
> I'll be running 2x140's in the front with an AIO and a 120 in the rear but I was worried that as you say, the furthest forward top mounted fans wouldn't do a whole lot of good but maybe one at the rear top would be good.
> 
> I was thinking of having as balanced an airflow as possible (or if not positive leaning) so maybe some slow speed roof exhausts would give the best balance?


Yes. I run NF-S12A's for all my 120mm exhausts and they are basically inaudible up to at least 60% if not higher. Three 120mm exhausts combined with your two 140mm intakes should be pretty neutral if not slightly positive (depending on fan speed). Just always keep your intakes going at least as fast as the exhausts and it should be pretty even since those 140's move more air.

I also highly recommend the bottom fan in the Meshify if you are able to ditch the HDD tray. It is another intake which helps with positive pressure and all that, but it also blows cool air basically straight up into the GPU fans. If your GPU is watercooled this is obviously less important.


----------



## Gorki

JackCY said:


> On R4 even the steel panels can be a little different paint job than the chassis...
> Alu front pieces when persent are glued on the plastic door, they don't really fade or anything. Neither does the case paint or plastics. All that will happen is collect dust and oils from your hands, such as rough painted side panel may look brighter because it's more rough matte and collects stuff more easily.
> 
> I wouldn't worry about colors and longevity these days at not on black cases. On white yeah that's a tricky question and more to do with how good of a UV stable paint is used and UV stable plastics. I don't remember people reporting yellowing etc. on white cases but it was a common thing on 80-90s bright plastic PC cases. Paints and pigments have moved on since then as well as possible UV protections.


Sounds good, I'm also hoping the same thing. Also I don't thing there will be much color difference comparing plastic and steel materials.
Now i'm only wondering will my fat XSPC RX480 radiator fit on top otherwise I'll have to sell it.
Thanks for shearing your info JackCY


----------



## Valka814

Can you guys recommend me something, how I can improve the cooling of memory moduls?
Define R5, have every stuff for it (HDD rack etc.)


----------



## Jspinks020

Back in the case and the sound died on me lol..did the chip really die. Majorrr case hack and tearing up the case stuff stuff.


----------



## smoke2

Please delete this post.


----------



## JackCY

Why Valka, RAM doesn't really get hot does it? The only way to force more cooling on RAM would be to blow air on them with a fan or add case top fan intake over them.


----------



## dwolvin

I used to have a bracket that allowed an 80mm fan to hover over the memory and cool it, depending on the fan it could look good... (let me know if you want more info and I'll dig for it).


----------



## 331149

Basic case airflow should be plenty to cool your memory, especially if using ddr4 which require even less voltage compared to ddr3.


----------



## Zammin

Hi everyone

I just recently won a new Define S2 in a competition and I'm planning on building my second system in it (using my previous hardware 8700k, GTX1080Ti etc) and I'm planning on keeping the components watercooled as I already have blocks and everything for them. I want to mount the GPU vertically and I see that the case has the vertical slots, but requires the purchase of a GPU riser cable separately. Here in Aus the Fractal cable will cost me $65-$70 and I have heard in a number of places that owners have found it not to fit properly. My question is, have any of you S2 or R6 owners run into this issue and how did you resolve it? Alternatively does anyone know of any other brands of riser cables that can work with the case?

I'm looking forward to building in this case as it will be my first time working with anything from Fractal Design. It's good to see we have an active Fractal rep in this thread too.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.


----------



## HornetMaX

Hi all,

I'm planning to buy a Fractal Meshify C TG, but I read that the max PSU lenght suggested is 175mm, while my one is 180mm (old Corsair HX750, link below).
Would that be a problem ?

Side question: I'm torn between the Meshify C and the CoolerMaster H500, any advice welcome 

Link to my PSU: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...-Certified-Modular-Power-Supply/p/CMPSU-750HX


----------



## khemist

Fractal r6 latest.


----------



## Ownedj00

tostitobandito said:


> Here's my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/q39J7P
> 
> 
> The answer is yes and I use them as exhuast. I have three intake in the front, one intake in the bottom, two exhaust in the top, and one exhaust in the rear.
> 
> The furthest rear top fan is especially good as an exhaust since it pulls hot air from around the VRM (in addition to the rear exhaust). The forward top fan isn't as useful as an exhaust since it's closer to the front intakes, but I still use it as one so I maintain something close to neutral pressure. If you have room a single 140mm top exhaust as far to the rear as possible would probably be fine as well.
> 
> I don't think this case is suited to using the top as intakes because it doesn't really leave you with enough exhaust options for maximum airflow. If for example the case had room for additional rear exhaust fans, then maybe the top would be ok as an intake then, but still I don't think it's ideal. There's no point having a 5:2 or 6:1 ratio of intake to exhaust since those extra intakes can't do very much when there's so much positive pressure in the case because it can't get air out fast enough.



I really like your build!!


----------



## Jidonsu

Latest build on the Define S2.


----------



## Zammin

Jidonsu said:


> Latest build on the Define S2.


Looks beautiful. Nice Singularity Computers reservoir. Can't wait to get started with mine once I'm done with my O11-DX overhaul.


----------



## midiamp

HornetMaX said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm planning to buy a Fractal Meshify C TG, but I read that the max PSU lenght suggested is 175mm, while my one is 180mm (old Corsair HX750, link below).
> Would that be a problem ?
> 
> Side question: I'm torn between the Meshify C and the CoolerMaster H500, any advice welcome
> 
> Link to my PSU: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...-Certified-Modular-Power-Supply/p/CMPSU-750HX


I have Define Mini C, it's basically the bone for the Meshify series. I'm not sure if the case can fit 180 mm PSU, it should, there's plenty of space in front of the PSU shroud area. However looking at the picture of the PSU area, there's an indentation that I never noticed when building my Mini C. I'm using RM650X, so plenty of space with my 160mm length. Maybe check some more videos on YouTube.

For the H500, the design is too loud for me, and I'm not sure about that 2 200mm case fan, probably more show than performance, maybe I'm wrong tho. I'm a big fan of Fractal Design subdued styling so probably not an objective viewer of the subject matter.


----------



## a5ian300zx

Just finished my meshify c tg build, just waiting for few more items to fully finish it off.

Phantek rgb halos and some custom cables.



Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## brazilianloser

Got my S2 in. Took that beauty apart immediately just to find out I made a miscalculation... Now to wait until Friday for some odds and ends to arrive before redoing my build in it.


----------



## a5ian300zx

Here are some pics.







http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c2d23d2213aa/20190101_181648.mp4http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c2d23dbec885/20190101_165850.mp4http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c2d23e91ab49/20190101_175839.mp4

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## midiamp

Happy new year all. Wanted to ask about my Define Mini C TG. Ever since I put two Corsair ML140 fan as exhaust on top, I have this dust accumulation leakage on the front panel latch holes. I use two Noctua NF-A14 PWM set on manual to just 800 RPM since higher speed give this weird acoustic ringing. 










Is this because my configuration created a negative pressure with all of the fans? Here's my fans only configs:

Intake:
2x NF-A14 PWM set on 50% about 800 RPM

Exhaust:
2x Corsair ML140 top set on 50% about 500 RPM
1x Corsair LL 120 rear set on high, idle for 1100 RPM, speed linked to processor temp, maxed out at 1500 RPM

HSF:
Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 set idle on 800 RPM, speed linked to processor temp.

Is using a rubber washer ring around the front panel hole helps? My room is very dusty, I live in the tropics with window opened directly towards the street. I have to wash the intake filter at least twice a week. So putting a rubber washer probably going to be tiring for me if I have to clean the dust filter twice a week. I'm even looking towards the Meshify C with its ejectable front mesh without taking of the front panel. I can seal the front panel with the rubber rings easily.

Any thoughts?

PS. That photo taken is just a week's worth of dust accumulation.


----------



## GeneO

midiamp said:


> Happy new year all. Wanted to ask about my Define Mini C TG. Ever since I put two Corsair ML140 fan as exhaust on top, I have this dust accumulation leakage on the front panel latch holes. I use two Noctua NF-A14 PWM set on manual to just 800 RPM since higher speed give this weird acoustic ringing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this because my configuration created a negative pressure with all of the fans? Here's my fans only configs:
> 
> Intake:
> 2x NF-A14 PWM set on 50% about 800 RPM
> 
> Exhaust:
> 2x Corsair ML140 top set on 50% about 500 RPM
> 1x Corsair LL 120 rear set on high, idle for 1100 RPM, speed linked to processor temp, maxed out at 1500 RPM
> 
> HSF:
> Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 4 set idle on 800 RPM, speed linked to processor temp.
> 
> Is using a rubber washer ring around the front panel hole helps? My room is very dusty, I live in the tropics with window opened directly towards the street. I have to wash the intake filter at least twice a week. So putting a rubber washer probably going to be tiring for me if I have to clean the dust filter twice a week. I'm even looking towards the Meshify C with its ejectable front mesh without taking of the front panel. I can seal the front panel with the rubber rings easily.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> PS. That photo taken is just a week's worth of dust accumulation.





Could be negative pressure as the intake have the filter screens to overcome.


----------



## midiamp

GeneO said:


> Could be negative pressure as the intake have the filter screens to overcome.


Thanks, I figure as much. This is a new case for me, usually I built my PC in SFF format. The last biggest one I used Define Nano S, I love the case so much I decided to just go big again (big but still conservative). However going big I have this dust headache to work out off.

I'm wondering if going to Meshify C will make things worse or better?


----------



## elzhi

has anyone tried covering up the top of their Meshify case ?

initially i was on the fence about buying the case because of the roof panel being open, but after doing some testing i found there's no difference in temps at idle/load, fan speed made no difference either.

i run 2 intakes at the front and one exhaust at the back.

my temps look good but it seems strange that blocking the roof doesn't have any negative consequences.


----------



## midiamp

elzhi said:


> has anyone tried covering up the top of their Meshify case ?
> 
> initially i was on the fence about buying the case because of the roof panel being open, but after doing some testing i found there's no difference in temps at idle/load, fan speed made no difference either.
> 
> i run 2 intakes at the front and one exhaust at the back.
> 
> my temps look good but it seems strange that blocking the roof doesn't have any negative consequences.


Case temp is never an exact science, too many variables comes into play. First you have the external factors, you room temp and is there Aircon/fan blowing around the case, the wind chill effect can also affect the external temp. Then comes the components, what type of cooling your processor use, HSF/AIO/Custom loop? If HSF, down draft/horizontal/vertical fan, how many fans on the HSF, and then what type of GPU fans you use, downdraft custom 2/3 fans, or blower type. That's why case review is never to trust since mostly it's the out of the box equipment many reviewers use... Which due to cost reason, some case manufacturer only ship with only one intake fan where 2 or even 3 can be installed. This skewed almost always to the case having bad case thermal performance. We're not even talking about different type of fans to replace the stock fan case.

I would like to know your component mix though. I use the Define Mini C, putting 2x Corsair ML140 on top as exhaust only gets me negligible temp difference, around 1/2 degrees C as well, and opening the top kind of defeats the purpose of buying the Define series which is for silence.


----------



## tostitobandito

HornetMaX said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm planning to buy a Fractal Meshify C TG, but I read that the max PSU lenght suggested is 175mm, while my one is 180mm (old Corsair HX750, link below).
> Would that be a problem ?
> 
> Side question: I'm torn between the Meshify C and the CoolerMaster H500, any advice welcome
> 
> Link to my PSU: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...-Certified-Modular-Power-Supply/p/CMPSU-750HX


You can go longer than 175mm, but not by much. I did the math when I was setting up mine and I think around 185mm is the limit with a front radiator and fan. If you only have front fans and no radiator, then you can add 25mm to that which will fit almost any GPU there is. You can also "cheat" and get more room with a front radiator by using slim fans outside the front chassis, or by modding the front panel to allow full fans outside.


----------



## elzhi

midiamp said:


> Case temp is never an exact science, too many variables comes into play. First you have the external factors, you room temp and is there Aircon/fan blowing around the case, the wind chill effect can also affect the external temp. Then comes the components, what type of cooling your processor use, HSF/AIO/Custom loop? If HSF, down draft/horizontal/vertical fan, how many fans on the HSF, and then what type of GPU fans you use, downdraft custom 2/3 fans, or blower type. That's why case review is never to trust since mostly it's the out of the box equipment many reviewers use... Which due to cost reason, some case manufacturer only ship with only one intake fan where 2 or even 3 can be installed. This skewed almost always to the case having bad case thermal performance. We're not even talking about different type of fans to replace the stock fan case.
> 
> I would like to know your component mix though. I use the Define Mini C, putting 2x Corsair ML140 on top as exhaust only gets me negligible temp difference, around 1/2 degrees C as well, and opening the top kind of defeats the purpose of buying the Define series which is for silence.


i'm running 1600x & Msi Gaming 1080ti, two NF-A12x25 for intake with one NF12 for exhaust


----------



## brazilianloser

Done transplanting and updating the system from a Define S into a Define S2... Not really happy with the Define S2 though. Too many shortcomings and overlooked issues on my opinion.


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Finished my new build in the Define Mini C TG. Plasti-dipped white on the inside and has a modded LCD side panel on it.

Planned for quite some time, but finally got off my bum to finish it today.



















Video!


----------



## octiny

Meshify C Mini. Love it!

https://pcpartpicker.com/b/T8w6Mp


----------



## Fractal Design

brazilianloser said:


> Done transplanting and updating the system from a Define S into a Define S2... Not really happy with the Define S2 though. Too many shortcomings and overlooked issues on my opinion.


Really sorry to hear that, but at least whatever those shortcomings were I see they didn't stop you from making a magnificent looking build. What sort of issues did you run into?


----------



## Jidonsu

Fractal Design said:


> Really sorry to hear that, but at least whatever those shortcomings were I see they didn't stop you from making a magnificent looking build. What sort of issues did you run into?


Really curious as well. 

Mine had a few paint defects/bubbles that was really annoying, so that was my biggest complain. The slight size increase helped me in my build. I do wish Fractal would make a case that increases the width a little more, give it a bit more room up top (an inch would be huge), and perhaps do a full basement that would allow a 360 to be side mounted down there. I'd happily pay more for something that fits those requirements and has tighter QC (noting the paint issue on mine and my previous Define S). I don't need or want something that's as big in the front to back length as the Lian Li V3000, but something like the Define S2 but with more vertical room and width would be magnificent. I really want a third side mounted radiator down below.

I think Fractal could do well with a more premium line.


----------



## brazilianloser

Fractal Design said:


> Really sorry to hear that, but at least whatever those shortcomings were I see they didn't stop you from making a magnificent looking build. What sort of issues did you run into?


Just personal things that made the transplant kind of painful. Nothing that says the case is bad. Actually a great case just don't think I needed to upgrade. But here is some of the stuff I wasn't very keen on.
~ The front mounting system is a little bit more limiting to 240 radiators compared to the S. By this I mean the various heights you can mount the radiator in the front are a bit more limited when compared to the S. This forced me to flip my 240 and have it at a weird height in order to have it work in the loop. Personal stuff though. Clearly wouldn't be a problem for most other folks.
~ The top mount that is closest to the window can interfere with the top piece going back into place depending on the screws used to mount your radiator. The standard XSPC rad screws that I have made it very painful for me to get that mesh piece back into place. But I guess I can just get some smaller head screws. 
~ The available space on the back panel is smaller than the S. Had to align my cables in a much cleaner manner to have that panel not bow out.
~ And while I guess it wouldn't make for a very symmetrical case since there is no glass in the front I wish the mounting for all three radiator locations had the same line up. 
~ The top metal piece once separated from the mesh is very fragile. And so its the little metal things to mount the reservoir.

But overall just personal little beefs. Great case still. It is growing on me.


----------



## Fractal Design

Jidonsu said:


> Really curious as well.
> 
> Mine had a few paint defects/bubbles that was really annoying, so that was my biggest complain. The slight size increase helped me in my build. I do wish Fractal would make a case that increases the width a little more, give it a bit more room up top (an inch would be huge), and perhaps do a full basement that would allow a 360 to be side mounted down there. I'd happily pay more for something that fits those requirements and has tighter QC (noting the paint issue on mine and my previous Define S). I don't need or want something that's as big in the front to back length as the Lian Li V3000, but something like the Define S2 but with more vertical room and width would be magnificent. I really want a third side mounted radiator down below.
> 
> I think Fractal could do well with a more premium line.


Would you mind sending me a pm with a photo of the paint defects? They wouldn't happen to be on any parts we could replace, would they?



brazilianloser said:


> ~ The front mounting system is a little bit more limiting to 240 radiators compared to the S. By this I mean the various heights you can mount the radiator in the front are a bit more limited when compared to the S. This forced me to flip my 240 and have it
> at a weird height in order to have it work in the loop. Personal stuff though. Clearly wouldn't be a problem for most other folks.


I know exactly what you mean. It seems like no matter how the fan rails are spaced out in a case, the one small place you can't put a screw is the place you need it to be. When we redesigned the front fan rails for the S2 we did hugely increase the range on the 140mm rails, but the 120mm rails did have to be narrowed by about 5 mm so they didn't obstruct the larger fans. It's still a step forward for the most part but I can see where it might get in the way for some setups.



brazilianloser said:


> ~ The top mount that is closest to the window can interfere with the top piece going back into place depending on the screws used to mount your radiator. The standard XSPC rad screws that I have made it very painful for me to get that mesh piece back into place. But I guess I can just get some smaller head screws.


You're not using washers on them, are you? Using washers on the rad screws can make it difficult to fit the top panel properly, and that's something I see happen quite a lot.



brazilianloser said:


> ~ And while I guess it wouldn't make for a very symmetrical case since there is no glass in the front I wish the mounting for all three radiator locations had the same line up.


It may have been doable if it was a priority in the design, but if it came down to a choice of having the mounts line up vs. increasing functionality or reducing hardware conflicts, we're generally going to opt for the latter. 



brazilianloser said:


> ~ The top metal piece once separated from the mesh is very fragile. And so its the little metal things to mount the reservoir.


Can't disagree with you there. Thankfully it's something you typically only ever have to do once, but we do recognize the need for improvement on this aspect.


----------



## brazilianloser

No washers. But from I have been told the XSPC rad screws have a abnormal large head. So got some other screws I will be putting on because i was able to force the piece in but there is a bulge on a spot where its being pushed up by one of the screws. But yeah got some other screws coming in to change them out.


----------



## Zammin

Well as I feared I am having fitment issues with the VRC-25 vertical GPU mount kit for my S2.. I have installed it as per the instructions and my GPU sits crooked. it's as if the mount sits too low, since the GPU I/O bracket can't go down into the slots further, it's already flush with the I/O screw holes. As you can see it is hanging crooked and the end of the GPU closest to the I/O bracket isn't fully seated. Can anyone advise whether I have done this incorrectly and how to fix it before I try using spacer washers or longer standoffs?


----------



## Zammin

Okay so I removed everything and refit it, and screwed the GPU I/O bracket to the case which made it sit in the connector a bit better, but as you can see in this image the whole GPU is slanted to the right somewhat. This appears to be due to the PSU shroud not being strong enough and it's bowing/flexing downward under the weight. Pushing up from underneath helps a bit. Pretty disappointed with this whole vertical mounting design.. I'm going to have to wedge something between the PSU and the shroud to hold it flat I think...


----------



## dainfamous

There's gonna be a new meshify on Jan 23.

https://twitter.com/FractalDesignNA/status/1086305012467331072/photo/1


----------



## Zammin

Zammin said:


> Okay so I removed everything and refit it, and screwed the GPU I/O bracket to the case which made it sit in the connector a bit better, but as you can see in this image the whole GPU is slanted to the right somewhat. This appears to be due to the PSU shroud not being strong enough and it's bowing/flexing downward under the weight. Pushing up from underneath helps a bit. Pretty disappointed with this whole vertical mounting design.. I'm going to have to wedge something between the PSU and the shroud to hold it flat I think...


Turns out not only the PSU shroud was flexing a bit, but the actual right side of the PCB that the GPU sits on (the mount itself) was bowing as well.. The only way I've been able to fix it is to wedge a piece of high density foam underneath the right side of the GPU block to hold some of the weight.. Never thought I'd need a sort of anti-sag device for a vertically mounted GPU..

Really not impressed, for $70 the VRC kit should be a lot better than this. Lian Li sell a $89 kit for their PC-O11 Dynamic (my other case) that comes with two steel brackets for mounting the GPU (one goes on the floor and the other fits to the PCI-E slots) as well as a very high quality riser cable. That was a kit I felt was worth the money. I don't think that the two standoffs that come with the Fractal VRC kit (literally the only other things apart from the riser cable itself) are sufficient to hold the weight of heavy GPUs or waterblocks, as evidenced by the bending.. A steel bracket should have been used instead of standoffs, that way you eliminate the large open space between the screw holes and prevent any flexing/bending. Or even just a PCB that's twice as thick as this one might've solved most of the issue.


----------



## 331149

dainfamous said:


> There's gonna be a new meshify on Jan 23.
> 
> https://twitter.com/FractalDesignNA/status/1086305012467331072/photo/1


Already? .. I'd buy a Define C2


----------



## brazilianloser

Just did some fine adjustments to my very recent build. And took the opportunity to take some pictures... to bad I am terrible at doing such but here is a little bit...


----------



## speed_demon

Lookin' good! I like the panda/stormtrooper theme.


----------



## Hokies83

Like these cases


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Some Tech Nub said:


> Finished my new build in the Define Mini C TG. Plasti-dipped white on the inside and has a modded LCD side panel on it.
> 
> Planned for quite some time, but finally got off my bum to finish it today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video!
> https://youtu.be/olpLNcs0Hik


Love it. Wish I had the chops to pull something like this off!


----------



## AlphaC

dainfamous said:


> There's gonna be a new meshify on Jan 23.
> 
> https://twitter.com/FractalDesignNA/status/1086305012467331072/photo/1



The only glaring omission I see for a 2019 case on the existing Meshify C is higher flow fans and USB 3.1 gen 2 upgrade (if not included already). It's a good size at <18" tall (aka 453mm with case protrusions) for ATX with capability for top radiators , plus width is ~8.5" (217mm). 170mm CPU cooler clearance is enough for pretty much every cooler, the 180-190mm on some other larger cases is extra.


I'll probably disappointed when they launch it with a new gray color or something superficial.


----------



## jonny27

I said it would be the Meshify front on a Define R6 chassis. I was 99% right, it's a Define S2 chassis instead.

https://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/meshify/meshify-s2


----------



## RyuVsJaquio

jonny27 said:


> I said it would be the Meshify front on a Define R6 chassis. I was 99% right, it's a Define S2 chassis instead.
> 
> https://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/meshify/meshify-s2


After months of looking I think this may very well be my next case...


----------



## AlphaC

jonny27 said:


> I said it would be the Meshify front on a Define R6 chassis. I was 99% right, it's a Define S2 chassis instead.
> 
> https://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/meshify/meshify-s2


 Uninspiring but it could be interesting.

There's USB 3.1 gen 2 type C built in, the same three Dynamic X2 fans which hold it back , vertical GPU gimmick since it has a solid side panel (maybe useful for watercooled GPUs but not air cooled ones for sure), glass attachment changed, and nothing much else changed.

"Other new additions include USB Type-C, a versatile PSU shroud, Flex-VRC Vertical GPU Riser support, and bolt-free tempered glass. "

Note the case is missing the extra USB 2.0 ports, since there's 2 x USB 3.0 and 1x USB 3.1 gen 2 type C, in replacement of USB 3.1 Type C + 2x USB 3.0 + 2xUSB 2.0.




REVIEWS

bittech --- thermals could be better with mesh front panel (but it's an i5 with a Gelid tranquilo air cooler so that's why it's a bad comparison test)

https://www.bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cases/fractal-design-meshify-s2-review/3/

hexus claims about 2 degree drop vs Define S2 https://hexus.net/tech/reviews/chassis/126644-fractal-design-meshify-s2/?page=3


hardwareluxx has its CPU temps a few degrees cooler than Define S2 even with fans at 5V https://www.hardwareluxx.de/index.p...t-die-evolution-des-mesh-modells.html?start=5

OCC doesn't have any major differences in temps https://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/fractal_design_meshify_s2/2.htm

oc3d
https://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/fractal_design_meshify_s2_review/1

sweclockers




https://www.sweclockers.com/test/26...-chassi-med-fokus-pa-hogt-luftflode/3#content


xfastest side by side with smaller Meshify C







https://news.xfastest.com/review/review-08/58045/fractal-design-meshify-s2/2/


https://www.allround-pc.com/artikel/gehaeuse-netzteile/2019/test-fractal-design-meshify-s2

http://www.benchmark.pl/testy_i_recenzje/fractal-design-meshify-s2-test/strona/30419.html

https://www.geeknetic.es/Review/1568/Review-Caja-Fractal-Design-Meshify-S2.html


----------



## Fractal Design

Zammin said:


> Turns out not only the PSU shroud was flexing a bit, but the actual right side of the PCB that the GPU sits on (the mount itself) was bowing as well.. The only way I've been able to fix it is to wedge a piece of high density foam underneath the right side of the GPU block to hold some of the weight.. Never thought I'd need a sort of anti-sag device for a vertically mounted GPU..
> 
> Really not impressed, for $70 the VRC kit should be a lot better than this. Lian Li sell a $89 kit for their PC-O11 Dynamic (my other case) that comes with two steel brackets for mounting the GPU (one goes on the floor and the other fits to the PCI-E slots) as well as a very high quality riser cable. That was a kit I felt was worth the money. I don't think that the two standoffs that come with the Fractal VRC kit (literally the only other things apart from the riser cable itself) are sufficient to hold the weight of heavy GPUs or waterblocks, as evidenced by the bending.. A steel bracket should have been used instead of standoffs, that way you eliminate the large open space between the screw holes and prevent any flexing/bending. Or even just a PCB that's twice as thick as this one might've solved most of the issue.


Big GPUs and heavy water blocks are kinda the whole point of the vertical mount and this sort of setup is more or less what it's made for. Something's obviously not right here, though. 

Have you spoken with anyone on our support team about it yet? If it's warped or bending like that it could be some sort of defect in which case we would owe you a replacement. It could also be an issue with the installation of course, but judging from the photos it definitely looks like you know what you're doing. Either way our support guys should be able to help if you could get in touch with them at support.fractal-design.com.


----------



## psychrage

Any plans to sell "replacement" front panels? Or what I'm really asking, is there any plans to sell the front panels to Define R6/S2 owners?


----------



## tostitobandito

Compared to Meshify C, it's 5 inches longer, half an inch wider, and 2 inches taller. I'm happy with my Meshify C as I like the much smaller footprint, but I still wish that case was SLIGHTLY larger. Like an extra inch in length would do wonders for GPU and PSU clearance. Height and width are fine IMO.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> Big GPUs and heavy water blocks are kinda the whole point of the vertical mount and this sort of setup is more or less what it's made for. Something's obviously not right here, though.
> 
> Have you spoken with anyone on our support team about it yet? If it's warped or bending like that it could be some sort of defect in which case we would owe you a replacement. It could also be an issue with the installation of course, but judging from the photos it definitely looks like you know what you're doing. Either way our support guys should be able to help if you could get in touch with them at support.fractal-design.com.


Thanks for replying! I have not contacted support as I didn't think it was a defect with my sample, it seemed more like a design flaw. The main issue appears to be t̶h̶e̶ ̶G̶P̶U̶ ̶m̶o̶u̶n̶t̶'̶s̶ ̶t̶h̶i̶n̶ ̶P̶C̶B̶ ̶b̶e̶n̶d̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶s̶i̶d̶e̶.̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶d̶i̶s̶t̶a̶n̶c̶e̶ ̶b̶e̶t̶w̶e̶e̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶r̶i̶g̶h̶t̶ ̶m̶o̶u̶n̶t̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶h̶o̶l̶e̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶P̶C̶I̶-̶E̶ ̶c̶o̶n̶n̶e̶c̶t̶o̶r̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶a̶ ̶c̶o̶u̶p̶l̶e̶ ̶c̶m̶ ̶l̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶ ̶r̶e̶i̶n̶f̶o̶r̶c̶e̶d̶,̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶i̶t̶'̶s̶ ̶b̶e̶n̶d̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶u̶n̶d̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶w̶e̶i̶g̶h̶t̶.̶ ̶E̶v̶e̶r̶y̶t̶h̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶i̶n̶s̶t̶a̶l̶l̶e̶d̶ ̶c̶o̶r̶r̶e̶c̶t̶l̶y̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶I̶'̶v̶e̶ ̶r̶e̶i̶n̶s̶t̶a̶l̶l̶e̶d̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶a̶t̶ ̶l̶e̶a̶s̶t̶ ̶4̶ ̶t̶i̶m̶e̶s̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶s̶u̶r̶e̶.̶ It was actually the standoffs being too short, the mount was too low and the GPU was leaning all it's weight onto the right side of the mount causing it to bend. See the posts below.


If you think it's worth doing I can contact support about it, but if I need to send the kit away somewhere (presumably overseas since I'm in Australia) and wait for a replacement it is going to delay the assembly of my PC for a while which is a problem for me at the moment. I am currently trying a few different things to help support the weight, I've cut a piece of high density foam that fit's between the standoffs and should support the GPU mount and prevent it from sagging. I haven't remounted the GPU yet though so I don't know how effective it is just yet. Might check that today.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> Big GPUs and heavy water blocks are kinda the whole point of the vertical mount and this sort of setup is more or less what it's made for. Something's obviously not right here, though.
> 
> Have you spoken with anyone on our support team about it yet? If it's warped or bending like that it could be some sort of defect in which case we would owe you a replacement. It could also be an issue with the installation of course, but judging from the photos it definitely looks like you know what you're doing. Either way our support guys should be able to help if you could get in touch with them at support.fractal-design.com.





Zammin said:


> Thanks for replying! I have not contacted support as I didn't think it was a defect with my sample, it seemed more like a design flaw. The main issue appears to be the GPU mount's thin PCB bending on the right side. The distance between the right mounting hole and the PCI-E connector is a couple cm long and not reinforced, so it's bending under the weight. Everything is installed correctly and I've reinstalled it all at least 4 times to be sure.
> 
> If you think it's worth doing I can contact support about it, but if I need to send the kit away somewhere (presumably overseas since I'm in Australia) and wait for a replacement it is going to delay the assembly of my PC for a while which is a problem for me at the moment. I am currently trying a few different things to help support the weight, I've cut a piece of high density foam that fit's between the standoffs and should support the GPU mount and prevent it from sagging. I haven't remounted the GPU yet though so I don't know how effective it is just yet. Might check that today.


I just test fit the GPU again, still sagging. Looks like part of the reason for the angle is that it isn't sitting in the connector properly. The left side is higher than the right, which means the standoffs are not tall enough and the mount is sitting too low.

I've submitted a support ticket, hopefully they get back to me soon.

EDIT: Confirmed. The standoffs are too short. By adding two washers on either side the GPU sag has reduced dramatically. it's only sagging by a few mm now, partially due to the PSU shroud flexing downward a little bit I think. The standoffs need to be around 9.5-10mm in length (excluding the thread) to mount the GPU properly.


----------



## Zammin

I've managed to pretty much fix it for now by stacking a couple of shorter standoffs together to make it about 10.5mm long. So the standoffs that come with the kit are at least 3mm too short and prevent the GPU (at least in the case of my Strix 1080Ti) from seating correctly. The PSU shroud is still flexing downward a bit but at least the GPU is straight...

I've ordered some 10mm standoffs from ebay for now, but I'm not sure what I can do about the PSU shroud. I might be able to wedge some foam between the PSU and the shroud to stop it from flexing but honestly I shouldn't really have to do all this for a $70 kit that was designed for the case :/


----------



## HalongPort

Can you remove the PSU shroud for better airflow on the new Meshify S2?
Is this the new state of the art airflow case?


----------



## broodro0ster

psychrage said:


> Any plans to sell "replacement" front panels? Or what I'm really asking, is there any plans to sell the front panels to Define R6/S2 owners?


Same question here.
I own a Define R6 and my watertemps drop 1-2°C when I open the front door. I'm not going to buy a new case for this, but if was available as an option, I would buy it.


----------



## manoy385

Here to spread some mATX love.


----------



## Fractal Design

Zammin said:


> I've managed to pretty much fix it for now by stacking a couple of shorter standoffs together to make it about 10.5mm long. So the standoffs that come with the kit are at least 3mm too short and prevent the GPU (at least in the case of my Strix 1080Ti) from seating correctly. The PSU shroud is still flexing downward a bit but at least the GPU is straight...
> 
> I've ordered some 10mm standoffs from ebay for now, but I'm not sure what I can do about the PSU shroud. I might be able to wedge some foam between the PSU and the shroud to stop it from flexing but honestly I shouldn't really have to do all this for a $70 kit that was designed for the case :/


That's really odd. It looks like yours came with the correct standoffs and the proper mounting height should be the same as any other installation. The extra 3.5mm definitely looks to have straightened it out, but I wonder if was actually a case of the bracket being seated too high rather than the slot being too low. If the card was misaligned at the bracket and the slot was raised to meet it, that would also change the horizontal spacing ever so slightly, which could in turn cause the standoffs to torque the PSU shroud, and that would also explain the flex. If that is the case though, we'd obviously then need to figure out why the bracket wasn't lining up right.


----------



## Fractal Design

psychrage said:


> Any plans to sell "replacement" front panels? Or what I'm really asking, is there any plans to sell the front panels to Define R6/S2 owners?


Unfortunately no. In addition to the bezel and mesh panel, you'd have to replace the whole front I/O including USB, audio, switches and LEDs, which would probably cost more than most people would reasonably want to pay. I feel like it would really need to include the top mesh panel as well to call it complete, and I'm honestly not sure all that could be done without the price tag getting ugly.


----------



## Fractal Design

HalongPort said:


> Can you remove the PSU shroud for better airflow on the new Meshify S2?
> Is this the new state of the art airflow case?


You can't remove it entirely, but you can remove the front cover of the PSU shroud which opens up most of the space not occupied by power cables or the PSU itself. 

I'd certainly say it's the new state of the art high-airflow case. I'd also say is the best high-airflow case you can get, but I'm probably a little biased in that regard.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> That's really odd. It looks like yours came with the correct standoffs and the proper mounting height should be the same as any other installation. The extra 3.5mm definitely looks to have straightened it out, but I wonder if was actually a case of the bracket being seated too high rather than the slot being too low. If the card was misaligned at the bracket and the slot was raised to meet it, that would also change the horizontal spacing ever so slightly, which could in turn cause the standoffs to torque the PSU shroud, and that would also explain the flex. If that is the case though, we'd obviously then need to figure out why the bracket wasn't lining up right.


When you say "the bracket seated too high" do you mean the PCI-E bracket of the case? Or the I/O bracket on the card? The card's I/O bracket is definitely okay, I've had it mounted both horizontally and vertically in other cases without issues. As for the vertical PCI-E slot of the case, it would be VERY odd if that was misaligned considering this case has the same tooling Fractal has been using on the R6 for ages, but in saying that, if that was the case it would certainly explain it since the vertical PCI-E slot is what is preventing me from pushing the card down any further when the riser mount is bolted to the included standoffs. The GPU is screwed down all the way so it is flush with the vertical PCI-E slots of the case and can't go any further. It takes some work to get it in there though, it doesn't just drop in easily. It does drop in a bit easier now that I've raised the slot end of the riser cable though.

In terms of horizontal/lateral alignment of the riser cable/mount, it might be slightly off but not by much.

I got a reply from Tim at tech support, he mentioned something about a revised version of the riser cable coming soon with different hole spacing but I don't think that's the main issue here. He suggested taking a file to the holes of the riser cable's PCB but again I don't think that's the issue. He said he can send me a replacement but it will take 2 weeks. Again though, if the replacement is the same thing it won't solve the issue. So far raising the mount is the only way I can straighten the GPU out and get it into the slot properly. The slight bowing of the PSU shroud may be due to the weight of the GPU block since the shroud is full of holes which may compromise it's strength. I'm not 100% sure on that though. I just tried resting the GPU by itself of the shroud and it did seem to flex a bit. It could also be that my stacked standoff solution is a bit too long (at around 11mm) since some of the flexing went away when I unscrewed the GPU at the I/O bracket. I'll try again once I have my 10mm standoffs that I purchased on ebay...


----------



## The Pook

Looks like I'll be grabbing the Fractal Design Meshify S2 within the next week or two, been thinking about grabbing a Meshify C but kind of wanted something a bit bigger and just saw they released the Meshify S2 today 










https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811352102&ignorebbr=1


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## JackCY

Fractal Design said:


> You can't remove it entirely.


*cough* dremel *vrrrrrrrrrrrr zoooooom grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> That's really odd. It looks like yours came with the correct standoffs and the proper mounting height should be the same as any other installation. The extra 3.5mm definitely looks to have straightened it out, but I wonder if was actually a case of the bracket being seated too high rather than the slot being too low. If the card was misaligned at the bracket and the slot was raised to meet it, that would also change the horizontal spacing ever so slightly, which could in turn cause the standoffs to torque the PSU shroud, and that would also explain the flex. If that is the case though, we'd obviously then need to figure out why the bracket wasn't lining up right.





Zammin said:


> When you say "the bracket seated too high" do you mean the PCI-E bracket of the case? Or the I/O bracket on the card? The card's I/O bracket is definitely okay, I've had it mounted both horizontally and vertically in other cases without issues. As for the vertical PCI-E slot of the case, it would be VERY odd if that was misaligned considering this case has the same tooling Fractal has been using on the R6 for ages, but in saying that, if that was the case it would certainly explain it since the vertical PCI-E slot is what is preventing me from pushing the card down any further when the riser mount is bolted to the included standoffs. The GPU is screwed down all the way so it is flush with the vertical PCI-E slots of the case and can't go any further. It takes some work to get it in there though, it doesn't just drop in easily. It does drop in a bit easier now that I've raised the slot end of the riser cable though.
> 
> In terms of horizontal/lateral alignment of the riser cable/mount, it might be slightly off but not by much.
> 
> I got a reply from Tim at tech support, he mentioned something about a revised version of the riser cable coming soon with different hole spacing but I don't think that's the main issue here. He suggested taking a file to the holes of the riser cable's PCB but again I don't think that's the issue. He said he can send me a replacement but it will take 2 weeks. Again though, if the replacement is the same thing it won't solve the issue. So far raising the mount is the only way I can straighten the GPU out and get it into the slot properly. The slight bowing of the PSU shroud may be due to the weight of the GPU block since the shroud is full of holes which may compromise it's strength. I'm not 100% sure on that though. I just tried resting the GPU by itself of the shroud and it did seem to flex a bit. It could also be that my stacked standoff solution is a bit too long (at around 11mm) since some of the flexing went away when I unscrewed the GPU at the I/O bracket. I'll try again once I have my 10mm standoffs that I purchased on ebay...


Here are some pics of the vertical PCI-E slots/bracket on the case, it looks okay to me but perhaps you might be able to tell me if anything looks out of order.


----------



## AlphaC

JackCY said:


> *cough* dremel *vrrrrrrrrrrrr zoooooom grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*


 I'd probably drill out the rivets instead...


----


New review on TPU https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Fractal_Design/Meshify_S2/4.html


Bjorn3d https://www.bjorn3d.com/2019/01/fractal-design-meshify-s2-review/4/


Legitreviews https://www.legitreviews.com/fractal-design-meshify-s2-case-review_209854/4



Tweaktown https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8...s2-black-dark-tg-mid-tower-review/index6.html


PCtuning https://pctuning.tyden.cz/hardware/skrine-zdroje-chladice/55817?start=13


PCMag https://www.pcmag.com/review/366114/fractal-design-meshify-s2


----------



## psychrage

Fractal Design said:


> Unfortunately no. In addition to the bezel and mesh panel, you'd have to replace the whole front I/O including USB, audio, switches and LEDs, which would probably cost more than most people would reasonably want to pay. I feel like it would really need to include the top mesh panel as well to call it complete, and I'm honestly not sure all that could be done without the price tag getting ugly.


I think you guys should consider a conversion kit. There were multiple reviews of the S2 criticizing Fractal for not offering a R6->S2 conversion kit. And even less is changed here in comparison to the S2. You've got interest from myself and broodro0ster. I would think anywhere in a range of $40-$80 would be fair. Buying a whole new case just to change the front panel is a bit absurd and wasteful.


----------



## a5ian300zx

manoy385 said:


> Here to spread some mATX love.


I have a matx in my meshify c to.

I will post some pictures once I have installed my new custom psu cables.

Mines rgb though  but not too much.



Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


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## manoy385

a5ian300zx said:


> Mines rgb though  but not too much.


The ram, rear fan and LED strip on mine is rgb too. I just set it to white for picture picture taking purposes. I usually set it to white or off so it doesn't get annoying.


----------



## Fullereneshift

Here's a few unorthodox fan mounting solutions I found with my Meshify C.


A 120mm fan can be pressed into a gap in the fan mounting frame, acting as a bottom intake but with less restriction (and noise!) as it isn't up against any grills or filters in addition to being physically closer to the GPU for greater cooling. I had no problems with sagging over a period of 2 months, though I later decided to remove it as the corners of the fan were flimsy enough that I could notice some bowing on the edges. You would have better luck with a closed flange over the mounting holes, or rubber corners for a more snug fit.



I also was able to ziptie a 120mm fan below with 2x 140mm fans in the upper slots. There is about -+12mm of room for the fan to move with both 140s in their highest positions, but if you remove the top mounts on the uppermost 140 they can be moved up another 10mm or so until you press up against the front I/O PCB. I reckon you can squeeze 3x 140mm fans this way, but I don't have any extra 140mm fans on hand to try it out.


----------



## Fractal Design

Zammin said:


> Here are some pics of the vertical PCI-E slots/bracket on the case, it looks okay to me but perhaps you might be able to tell me if anything looks out of order.


I sure don't see anything out of order, and as you say it's not likely anything could have happened for the slot itself to be out of alignment. My only working theory was that the card itself was somehow not seated properly despite it all. I've certainly had it happen a few times myself despite having done it a hundred times prior. Tim's probably going to be the bigger expert on this one, though, being the technical specialist and such, so I'm inclined to defer to his advice from here. If replacing the riser doesn't solve the problem then we'll at least be that much closer the real solution. If you shared all these images and info with him as well then I'm sure he's already well on his way to pinpointing the problem, whatever it may be in this scenario.


----------



## Saiger0

To those who have the meshify c, what GPU temps do you get? I´ve got a msi 1080ti gaming x and on stock voltage I´m in mid 80´s degrees. My fan setup: 2x silent wings 3s + 1x 120mm stock fan as intake and 1x nf a12x25 + 1x 120 stock fan as exhaust. Tried different fan configs but nothing seem to help to improve those temps.


----------



## AlphaC

Meshify S2 is 2-4°C off from Define S2 (test bed i9-7920x + RTX 2080).


Leo makes a good point in that the Meshify front panel could have been released as an upgrade to the S2 or as an alternate version. The front panel isn't interchangeable between the Meshify S2 and Define S2 due to the IO.


----------



## JackCY

Fractal is still building up to be able to and willing to offer interchangeability between their cases and readily provide parts to buy. Ultimately nowadays you're still stuck with what you bought and can't easily customize by buying different parts as extras. As any case maker the metal parts inside are reused as much as possible between cases but the front panels are not always interchangeable.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> I sure don't see anything out of order, and as you say it's not likely anything could have happened for the slot itself to be out of alignment. My only working theory was that the card itself was somehow not seated properly despite it all. I've certainly had it happen a few times myself despite having done it a hundred times prior. Tim's probably going to be the bigger expert on this one, though, being the technical specialist and such, so I'm inclined to defer to his advice from here. If replacing the riser doesn't solve the problem then we'll at least be that much closer the real solution. If you shared all these images and info with him as well then I'm sure he's already well on his way to pinpointing the problem, whatever it may be in this scenario.


Thanks for your reply.

I guarantee you that it's not an issue with how I installed the card, although I can understand why one might suspect that. I have taken it out and reinstalled it every which way more times than I can count now and tried re-positioning the mount many times as well. The fact of the matter is that the I/O bracket of the graphics card *cannot* go any further down into the slots on the case, and without raising the bottom mount (riser cable) to meet it's height the GPU doesn't seat in the connector properly and hangs at an angle. Every single time the only solution has been to raise the height of the mount. I am 100% certain, without any doubt at this point that this is the issue. It might be specific to my model of card (Strix 1080Ti) but it is definitely the problem.

Tim has not responded since the first email so I don't believe he has any more to contribute. I have already completed my build now, watercooling loop and everything. My 10mm standoffs I bought were taking too long to get here so I fixed the issue myself by adding two 1.5mm washers to the standoffs to bring the total height to exactly 10mm which was just the right amount to seat the card properly without any sag and doesn't put too much pressure on the PSU shroud like the 11-11.5mm height stacked standoffs did.

The graphics card is now sitting straight and the PSU shroud isn't flexing anymore. The system is up and running and there are no issues with the GPU.


----------



## Zammin

Here's some pics of the build for anyone interested. The lighting's not great and they are just phone pics, but in terms of the build I'm fairly pleased with the way it came out, just having trouble figuring out where to put UV strips to make the coolant glow. I've put one in the front and one sort of behind the reservoir, but I really need to get some light on the front or top of the tubes to get them to light up nicely. I just can't find anywhere that won't look awful (e.g. sticking it to the fan shrouds or something tacky like that).


----------



## Shenhua

HalongPort said:


> Can you remove the PSU shroud for better airflow on the new Meshify S2?
> Is this the new state of the art airflow case?





Fractal Design said:


> You can't remove it entirely, but you can remove the front cover of the PSU shroud which opens up most of the space not occupied by power cables or the PSU itself.
> 
> I'd certainly say it's the new state of the art high-airflow case. I'd also say is the best high-airflow case you can get, but I'm probably a little biased in that regard.





Saiger0 said:


> To those who have the meshify c, what GPU temps do you get? I´ve got a msi 1080ti gaming x and on stock voltage I´m in mid 80´s degrees. My fan setup: 2x silent wings 3s + 1x 120mm stock fan as intake and 1x nf a12x25 + 1x 120 stock fan as exhaust. Tried different fan configs but nothing seem to help to improve those temps.


I would like to address some things that can be improved in the next iteration of the Meshify C. Some things can be applied for other models aswell.

Here's some food for thought:
What's the point on having one of the best mesh cases on the market, if the GPU temps are just about AVG?!.

The main reasons that couses the issue, it's that the GPU doesn't have space to breathe, and since many (i would say more than 50%) GPUs have more static pressure focused fan design (MSI is a good example), the front intake hitting under the GPU, it's almost useless. I mean there's some GPUs where u can ramp up nf a14/sw3 intake from 800 to 1600 and get a 1°C improvement. Hell, the guy i just quoted, with the 1080ti gsming x, is the perfect example.

Here's how to fix it:
1. Removable PSU shroud
2. More length to the case
3. Support for 3x140mm in the front.

I understand that these modifications will have an impact on the cost of the model, and even on the sales of other models. So I understand there have to be some compromises from my part (the customer) aswell.

1. Removable PSU. The ideal situation, it would be to make a design, like the define S and add a power supply shroud to it, screwed in 4-6 places, and add 5 to 10mm to the width of the case for extra cable management. A cheaper more realistic solution, is to make 3 (or 3into1) removable panels on the top of the PSU shroud and leave 2 spacers of 1-2cm width for structure stability. Basically a modular design. You guys love that.

2. 3-4 extra cm to the length of the case would allow the parts to breathe more, especially the GPU. I understand that is impossible to do because it would drive most of the define R6/S2 potential buyers to the cheaper case.

3. 3x140mm front intake support. This is very important, both for us the customers and for marketing. It would be the first compact ATX case to sport 3x140mm in the front. They add a lot more air and create a lot more positive pressure at the same noise level. The extra size on the case shouldn't be a problem since the define s and s2 have almost the same height as the define/Meshify C.

Extra ideas:
Make and sell separately, solid panels for the top, for the Meshify cases. Top fans make little to no impact on cases with very good airflow like yours when they are ran on air cooling, so it would be nice to have solid panels to prevent noise escaping from the top.
Move the SSD bracket from the back of the chipset like you did for the define r6. It adds at least 10-15°C when mounted there.






Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Saiger0

Shenhua said:


> I mean there's some GPUs where u can ramp up nf a14/sw3 intake from 800 to 1600 and get a 1°C improvement. Hell, the guy i just quoted, with the 1080ti gsming x, is the perfect example.



Exactly. For testing purposes I had 2x noctua nf a14 as intake blasting at full speed and the gpu temps improved by 2 degrees...


----------



## Fractal Design

Shenhua said:


> I would like to address some things that can be improved in the next iteration of the Meshify C. Some things can be applied for other models aswell.
> 
> Here's some food for thought:
> What's the point on having one of the best mesh cases on the market, if the GPU temps are just about AVG?!.
> 
> The main reasons that couses the issue, it's that the GPU doesn't have space to breathe, and since many (i would say more than 50%) GPUs have more static pressure focused fan design (MSI is a good example), the front intake hitting under the GPU, it's almost useless. I mean there's some GPUs where u can ramp up nf a14/sw3 intake from 800 to 1600 and get a 1°C improvement. Hell, the guy i just quoted, with the 1080ti gsming x, is the perfect example.
> 
> Here's how to fix it:
> 1. Removable PSU shroud
> 2. More length to the case
> 3. Support for 3x140mm in the front.
> 
> I understand that these modifications will have an impact on the cost of the model, and even on the sales of other models. So I understand there have to be some compromises from my part (the customer) aswell.
> 
> 1. Removable PSU. The ideal situation, it would be to make a design, like the define S and add a power supply shroud to it, screwed in 4-6 places, and add 5 to 10mm to the width of the case for extra cable management. A cheaper more realistic solution, is to make 3 (or 3into1) removable panels on the top of the PSU shroud and leave 2 spacers of 1-2cm width for structure stability. Basically a modular design. You guys love that.
> 
> 2. 3-4 extra cm to the length of the case would allow the parts to breathe more, especially the GPU. I understand that is impossible to do because it would drive most of the define R6/S2 potential buyers to the cheaper case.
> 
> 3. 3x140mm front intake support. This is very important, both for us the customers and for marketing. It would be the first compact ATX case to sport 3x140mm in the front. They add a lot more air and create a lot more positive pressure at the same noise level. The extra size on the case shouldn't be a problem since the define s and s2 have almost the same height as the define/Meshify C.
> 
> Extra ideas:
> Make and sell separately, solid panels for the top, for the Meshify cases. Top fans make little to no impact on cases with very good airflow like yours when they are ran on air cooling, so it would be nice to have solid panels to prevent noise escaping from the top.
> Move the SSD bracket from the back of the chipset like you did for the define r6. It adds at least 10-15°C when mounted there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


Really appreciate all the well thought-out feedback on these points. 

The PSU shroud is an especially hot topic where I think it's going to take some creative problem solving to make changes that the majority would perceive as a step forward. There's no denying there are people out there who want it. It seems there was a time not long ago that you could expect to be met with a mild degree of outrage if you released a case without one. However I think the ideal solution has to be one that addresses the issues raised by those who don't want the shroud, but doesn't take away the benefits, or at least the choice, from those who do want it. I agree segmented top covers seem like a plausible way to do that but I'm sure we'll find several paths to explore.

Extra length and width are a common request for practically every case we make. It's an easy way to increase performance and headroom for sure, but even if it's what people want there's always the question of whether it's better to make that model bigger or just make a bigger model. The more feedback we get, though, the easier that question is to answer.

Three 140mm fans in a C-size chassis is an interesting challenge. Not inconceivable though. I'll pass the suggestion along.

Thanks for all the input.


----------



## AlphaC

To be fair to Fractal Design's engineers, GamersNexus and Bittech showed the Meshify C and Define C to be alright for GPU temperatures when two NF-A14s were used as front intake even when compared against other cases.


https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3061-fractal-meshify-c-review-vs-define-c


https://bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/cases/fractal-design-meshify-c-review/3/


The shroud could have been shorter as in the Corsair 570X and you'd end up with a similar result. Similarly, the top performing cheaper case (price and build quality wise) Silverstone RL06 also uses a shroud design.



The GTX 1080 TI Gaming X mentioned above is essentially a triple slot air cooled card.


Given that the top PCIE slot is typically unpopulated, with the number of PCIE slot covers the Meshify C has, it's roughly 3 slots worth of height under the GPU.


----


Meshify S2 vs Meshify C (R7 1700 + GTX 1080):






Fractal design's Meshify C is winning on sheer case volume, there are few cases that can even come close in the ATX form factor. There's minor upgrades that can be sold such as USB 3.1 gen 2 though. There aren't glaring problems applicable to most of the userbase as people are suggesting.


It would probably be easier to offer an upgrade part for Define C users, it seems to be one part (SP-FD-IOPANEL-006-BK) : https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-C-Mini-C-I-O-Panel-Black


----------



## JackCY

Some GPUs exhaust and intake air well, some do not at all and suffocate themselves. As long as you can supply enough fresh air in front of GPU fans and pull heat away on side and front from it, that's all you can do. The rest is up to GPU cooler and PCB design many of which are borderline useless cooling wise these days.

One thing that probably helps most GPUs is to put a rear expansion slots intake fan blowing right in front of GPU fans a fresh cold air. 80mm fan fits there. Maybe some cases have this as an option but it's a rarity for sure to see. Easy to DIY though if you need that intake. 80mm fan, 2 fan screws, 2 washers, done.

PSU shrouds are for window looking people, don't care for either personally.


----------



## t1337dude

Does anyone know the best air CPU cooler I can fit into the Fractal Design Mini C? I've had a Swiftech H-220X2 and it leaked and wiped out my Z270 i5 6600k setup. I'm RMA'ing the H-220X2 but I see no good reason to bother with Swiftech anymore. This is my 2nd leaking disaster and I think I'm done with AIO liquid cooling now. Last time I checked, air coolers are just as quiet, perform nearly as well, more reliable, etc. No matter what it 
seems overclocking the CPU in general just doesn't really have much pay off for people gaming in 4k like myself.

EDIT: I perused around and it seems "Le Grand Macho RT" or similar (Noctua Nh-D15) are the best. Can I fit the Macho in the Fractal Design Mini C?


----------



## broodro0ster

Hey Fractal Design,

I have a Define R6 myself and had older versions of the Define as well. And I always choose FD cases for friends when building for them. 
What I would really like to see is a case about the size of the Lian Li V3000, but with the nice Fractal Design. It would be an awesome case for watercooling!


It should have a pedestal for a 420/480mm radiator in the bottom, PSU and pumps. And it should be closed from the upper compartiment so that no warm air from the radiator van enter the upper part.
And the top of the case should have radiator support for a 360/420 radiator. But with a bit more space between the top of the case and the top of the motherbord so the radiator doesn't come in front of the CPU power cords and RAM sticks. I need to drain my whole loop and remove my top radiator to access my power cable or swap my ram sticks.
The underside of motherboard should be close to the floor so the case doesn't get too high. The caselabs SM10 is a good example of a nice watercooling like, but it's stupid big (Lian Li V3000 is better) and the design looks quite old from both cases. If fractal could build something like this, we would have a real winner for people that want dual radiators and dual D5 pumps!


----------



## Fractal Design

t1337dude said:


> Can I fit the Macho in the Fractal Design Mini C?


Anything under 172mm in height should be fine in the Mini C and Thermalright's specs show 159mm for the Macho, so you should have no trouble.



broodro0ster said:


> Hey Fractal Design,
> 
> I have a Define R6 myself and had older versions of the Define as well. And I always choose FD cases for friends when building for them.
> What I would really like to see is a case about the size of the Lian Li V3000, but with the nice Fractal Design. It would be an awesome case for watercooling!
> 
> 
> It should have a pedestal for a 420/480mm radiator in the bottom, PSU and pumps. And it should be closed from the upper compartiment so that no warm air from the radiator van enter the upper part.
> And the top of the case should have radiator support for a 360/420 radiator. But with a bit more space between the top of the case and the top of the motherbord so the radiator doesn't come in front of the CPU power cords and RAM sticks. I need to drain my whole loop and remove my top radiator to access my power cable or swap my ram sticks.
> The underside of motherboard should be close to the floor so the case doesn't get too high. The caselabs SM10 is a good example of a nice watercooling like, but it's stupid big (Lian Li V3000 is better) and the design looks quite old from both cases. If fractal could build something like this, we would have a real winner for people that want dual radiators and dual D5 pumps!


I'm sure there's a place in the world for at least one more massive full tower with certifiably insane water cooling capacity at some point in the future.


----------



## NewType88

t1337dude said:


> Does anyone know the best air CPU cooler I can fit into the Fractal Design Mini C? I've had a Swiftech H-220X2 and it leaked and wiped out my Z270 i5 6600k setup. I'm RMA'ing the H-220X2 but I see no good reason to bother with Swiftech anymore. This is my 2nd leaking disaster and I think I'm done with AIO liquid cooling now. Last time I checked, air coolers are just as quiet, perform nearly as well, more reliable, etc. No matter what it
> seems overclocking the CPU in general just doesn't really have much pay off for people gaming in 4k like myself.
> 
> EDIT: I perused around and it seems "Le Grand Macho RT" or similar (Noctua Nh-D15) are the best. Can I fit the Macho in the Fractal Design Mini C?


The height limitation is 172mm, but you also have to factor in how tall your ram is and since your looking at a mATX case, sometimes the cooler will impede on the pcie slot. I had a D15s in my mini c. Its the exact same cooler as the D15, but only its offset a bit as to not impede over the pcie slot. If you get the D15s and use a single fan you should be good to go with most taller ram and the difference between 1 and 2 fans is like 3c tops.


----------



## broodro0ster

Fractal Design said:


> I'm sure there's a place in the world for at least one more massive full tower with certifiably insane water cooling capacity at some point in the future.


Awesome!


----------



## t1337dude

HZCH said:


> Hohoho, my last Fractal Design Define C mini! I swapped the CPU and added the Le Grand Macho in it, because why not (even if it's useless)??
> 
> Warning, crappy pics ahead!*Warning: Spoiler!*
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The rig configuration:
> *Case*: Define C mini indeed
> *Case fans*: 3x bequiet SiletWings 3 120mm PWM as intake, 1x as exhaust
> *CPU*: Intel Core i7 4770 (non-K, couldn't find one second-hand in Switzerland, they all got bought in, like, two weeks)
> *CPU Cooler*: Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT (big, huge...)
> *Motherboard*: Gigabyte Z97M (meh, two dead RAM slots becauseof me, but PWM fan management is crap)
> *RAM*: G.Skill Trident X ddr3 2400MHz CL10, 16GB
> *GPU*: Asus ROG 1080ti Strix OC (hohohohohoho)
> *GPU Cooler*: Raijintek Morpheus MK2 Core Edition, with two Fractal GP-something (the case fans)
> *SSD*: 1x samsung EVO 850 500gb, 1x samsung EVO 850 1tb
> 
> Still have to check the temps, but it IS silent ?


I wonder if this build can have been done with an ITX build in the Nano.


----------



## HZCH

t1337dude said:


> I wonder if this build can have been done with an ITX build in the Nano.


Sadly no, not with the parts I wanted to use :
I had an Matx board, which let me use the Le Grand Macho CPU Cooler - it doesnt fit my mITX boards AFAIK...
Then OFC you can build something similar in the Nano, with an NH-D15s (and even a rear fan for extracting hot air) on an mITX board, and a SFX psu to let the 2.5 slot GPU get the air it needs, but I wanted to use the RM750 I had, and the Define C Mini is only a little bigger than the Nano S...
The main advantage I see on the Mini C right now is its ease of use compared to the Nano S for air buildings, and very little sacrifices in terms of size ; and, for those who like it, there's tempered glass...

What I actually wonder is if a Nano S would have been more adapted for a watercooled GPU build... but as my deskroom is organized right now, the Define C Mini barely feets in a space between a heater (fixed on the wall) and the legs of my desk ; I'd have to reorganise a lot of things "just" to get a deeper case, when all I want now is downsizing my rig


----------



## t1337dude

HZCH said:


> Sadly no, not with the parts I wanted to use :
> I had an Matx board, which let me use the Le Grand Macho CPU Cooler - it doesnt fit my mITX boards AFAIK...
> Then OFC you can build something similar in the Nano, with an NH-D15s (and even a rear fan for extracting hot air) on an mITX board, and a SFX psu to let the 2.5 slot GPU get the air it needs, but I wanted to use the RM750 I had, and the Define C Mini is only a little bigger than the Nano S...
> The main advantage I see on the Mini C right now is its ease of use compared to the Nano S for air buildings, and very little sacrifices in terms of size ; and, for those who like it, there's tempered glass...
> 
> What I actually wonder is if a Nano S would have been more adapted for a watercooled GPU build... but as my deskroom is organized right now, the Define C Mini barely feets in a space between a heater (fixed on the wall) and the legs of my desk ; I'd have to reorganise a lot of things "just" to get a deeper case, when all I want now is downsizing my rig


I appreciate the reply 

I thought about using the Nano but similarly I want to re-use my PSU as well. My experience with PSU's are hit-and-miss especially when volume is concerned (sometimes they are louder than everything in my case despite never reading anyone complain about noise), and going smaller might be untenable in terms of volume. This is basically replacing my Corsair 250D (which I used every millimeter and even beyond w/ modding) for my HTPC so I've been aiming for small and silent. This case really seems like the next logical upgrade and a bit of a godsend. But I really want to fully utilize the space.

I really like that cooler on your 1080Ti as well. Would something like that be a lot better than the one built into the MSI 1080 Ti Gaming X? I had no idea you could use those with aftermarket boards.


----------



## iSpark

On the Define R6 case, why did Fractal Design leave out the grommet on the PSU shroud where the front panel audio connector plugs into the motherboard?
All the other areas have the grommets. :-\


Now there is a big gaping hole in the metal shroud with one little connector coming through. Looks unfinished.


----------



## Shenhua

t1337dude said:


> I wonder if this build can have been done with an ITX build in the Nano.


Dream air build if that would be a Meshify.

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Fractal Design

iSpark said:


> On the Define R6 case, why did Fractal Design leave out the grommet on the PSU shroud where the front panel audio connector plugs into the motherboard?
> All the other areas have the grommets. :-\
> 
> 
> Now there is a big gaping hole in the metal shroud with one little connector coming through. Looks unfinished.


Since it's a much smaller hole than the others, we likely would have had to either a) use an odd style of grommet for it to work right or b) make the hole much larger for the regular style grommets to fit. Either option seems like it would stand out way more than the way it currently is. If it bothers you though, one alternative you could consider would be to remove an SSD bracket and use one of those openings to route the audio connector under the bottom edge of the board. It's not the most elegant solution but it would keep the cable mostly hidden from view in the main case interior.


----------



## iSpark

Fractal Design said:


> Since it's a much smaller hole than the others, we likely would have had to either a) use an odd style of grommet for it to work right or b) make the hole much larger for the regular style grommets to fit. Either option seems like it would stand out way more than the way it currently is. If it bothers you though, one alternative you could consider would be to remove an SSD bracket and use one of those openings to route the audio connector under the bottom edge of the board. It's not the most elegant solution but it would keep the cable mostly hidden from view in the main case interior.


I'm not worried about the wire coming through that location, that part works. It's the hole with no grommet that all the other holes have. Looks like it was forgot about.

btw, the EPS/CPU power connector grommet would have worked in that location, it's even smaller than that hole is. :-\

edit: After checking, the EPS/CPU grommet is slightly larger than the audio connector access hole is, but still. lol


----------



## iSpark

btw, I love the Define R6, I will be buying another for sure!
I have only two dislikes, that grommet, and I wish it was 50 mill taller.


----------



## a5ian300zx

Just discovered my meshify c has a vibration noise coming from the front grill.

If I place my finger on the front grill the sound goes away and as soon as I remove the my finger the vibration sound starts again.

Has anyone else experienced this?

I have a new cosair AIO RGB Platinum 140mm rad + fans mounted to the front but mounted my fans first and then the rad in pull configuration so you can see the rgb on the fans properly.

How does everyone else mount their front rad or aio if they have it in their setup?

Thanks 

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## Fractal Design

a5ian300zx said:


> Just discovered my meshify c has a vibration noise coming from the front grill.
> 
> If I place my finger on the front grill the sound goes away and as soon as I remove the my finger the vibration sound starts again.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this?
> 
> I have a new cosair AIO RGB Platinum 140mm rad + fans mounted to the front but mounted my fans first and then the rad in pull configuration so you can see the rgb on the fans properly.
> 
> How does everyone else mount their front rad or aio if they have it in their setup?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


Do you have any HDDs installed or are the fans the only possible source of the vibrations? Also do any of the fans look wobbly at all?


----------



## a5ian300zx

Fractal Design said:


> Do you have any HDDs installed or are the fans the only possible source of the vibrations? Also do any of the fans look wobbly at all?


I do have one 3.5 hdd installed on normal place but this has rubber mounts from what I remember.

The two fans are securely mounted, it's like the front grill is loose which it is not. 

Thanks 

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## soloman02

I'm really liking the Meshify C for my next build (A Ryzen 3000 series build to replace my ancient Sandy Bridge and CM690 case).

Can you install two 140mm fans and a 120 in the front? I also have 2 3.5mm HDD's for storage outside of the SSD so will that limit my ability to have 3 120mm fans (or the proposed 2 140mm and 1 120mm)? 

I strictly air cool so no consideration is needed for radiators.


----------



## elzhi

Saiger0 said:


> To those who have the meshify c, what GPU temps do you get? I´ve got a msi 1080ti gaming x and on stock voltage I´m in mid 80´s degrees. My fan setup: 2x silent wings 3s + 1x 120mm stock fan as intake and 1x nf a12x25 + 1x 120 stock fan as exhaust. Tried different fan configs but nothing seem to help to improve those temps.


hey, i'm using msi 1080ti gaming (not X) at stock and my temps hover between 70c - 75c.

i'm using 2x Noctua NF-A12x25 as front intakes (also using Noctua's 140mm to 120mm brackets so that i can position both fans more in line with CPU cooler and the gpu) and Noctua NF-F12 as exhaust on the back (also another NF-A12x25 on the CPU cooler but i don't think that's really relevant) 

i'm using custom fan curves for all the fans so those beastly NF-A12x25's only crank up when i'm gaming.


on a slightly related note i found that with a decent cooler and good fans the roof of the case can be covered without any increase in temps, whether its idle or load.

also if you remove the PCI covers from the case your gpu temps could drop by 1c-3c, but i haven't done much extensive testing on whether it really makes a difference since i'm happy with my temps and the potential drop in temps doesn't seem to be worth it to me.

if i had to guess i'd say your silent wings fans and the stock fractal fan aren't good enough in terms of airflow, have you tried putting your NF-A12x25 as an intake, positioned as low as it gets ? those fans move serious amount of air.


----------



## Fullereneshift

soloman02 said:


> I'm really liking the Meshify C for my next build (A Ryzen 3000 series build to replace my ancient Sandy Bridge and CM690 case).
> 
> Can you install two 140mm fans and a 120 in the front? I also have 2 3.5mm HDD's for storage outside of the SSD so will that limit my ability to have 3 120mm fans (or the proposed 2 140mm and 1 120mm)?
> 
> I strictly air cool so no consideration is needed for radiators.


2x 140mm and 1x 120mm is possible in the ATX version. 3x 140mm is plausible but it'll be a tight squeeze. 140s here are be quiet Silent Wings 3 High-Speed, and one of the stock Fractal fans.


----------



## Saiger0

elzhi said:


> hey, i'm using msi 1080ti gaming (not X) at stock and my temps hover between 70c - 75c.
> 
> i'm using 2x Noctua NF-A12x25 as front intakes (also using Noctua's 140mm to 120mm brackets so that i can position both fans more in line with CPU cooler and the gpu) and Noctua NF-F12 as exhaust on the back (also another NF-A12x25 on the CPU cooler but i don't think that's really relevant)
> 
> i'm using custom fan curves for all the fans so those beastly NF-A12x25's only crank up when i'm gaming.
> 
> 
> on a slightly related note i found that with a decent cooler and good fans the roof of the case can be covered without any increase in temps, whether its idle or load.
> 
> also if you remove the PCI covers from the case your gpu temps could drop by 1c-3c, but i haven't done much extensive testing on whether it really makes a difference since i'm happy with my temps and the potential drop in temps doesn't seem to be worth it to me.
> 
> if i had to guess i'd say your silent wings fans and the stock fractal fan aren't good enough in terms of airflow, have you tried putting your NF-A12x25 as an intake, positioned as low as it gets ? those fans move serious amount of air.


Thanks for the suggetion. AMybe wits the static pressure of the a12x25 that will make a difference. I have tried a a14 on as intake on 100% speed and it barely made a difference though.


----------



## Shenhua

Dont waste your money on changing from one of the best fans to one of the best fans. It won't make any difference. In fact noctua (at least the a14 and a15) at high RPM, have a really annoying sound mark, where silent wings have a very pleasing one. Noise and performance levels are within margin of error.

If u wanna fix your GPU thermals without changing the case, the cheapest solution i see, is to mod your GPU with 2x120mm fans. I'll do this myself for mine, in the near future, when I'll change some hardware in the PC.

Extra static pressure won't do anything for case fans. You see, static pressure is to push the heat from hot spots. The fan needs to be very close and perpendicular to the hot spot. In this case scenario the blow from the intake and the GPU are parallel. Pushing the same amount of air with more force and speed bellow the GPU, it will make even harder for the fans of your GPU to grab some air from the intake "stream".


----------



## Saiger0

Shenhua said:


> Dont waste your money on changing from one of the best fans to one of the best fans. It won't make any difference. In fact noctua (at least the a14 and a15) at high RPM, have a really annoying sound mark, where silent wings have a very pleasing one. Noise and performance levels are within margin of error.
> 
> If u wanna fix your GPU thermals without changing the case, the cheapest solution i see, is to mod your GPU with 2x120mm fans. I'll do this myself for mine, in the near future, when I'll change some hardware in the PC.
> 
> Extra static pressure won't do anything for case fans. You see, static pressure is to push the heat from hot spots. The fan needs to be very close and perpendicular to the hot spot. In this case scenario the blow from the intake and the GPU are parallel. Pushing the same amount of air with more force and speed bellow the GPU, it will make even harder for the fans of your GPU to grab some air from the intake "stream".


Yea I guess the best/cheapest solution would be to change the case in the near future. I though about putting a aio on my gpu but that might be a little bit too much.


----------



## Shenhua

Saiger0 said:


> Yea I guess the best/cheapest solution would be to change the case in the near future. I though about putting a aio on my gpu but that might be a little bit too much.


The 120mm fan mod will give similar performance for 4-5times lower price.

And if u change the case, considering the GPU you have, you will need to get a spacious one. That's why, at least for me it's not an option, and I'll rather cope with the case i have since there's no other option (just a lot of equal ones).

Define S with 3x140mm it's incredibly good for the GPU u have. My brother has the define S and a 1070ti gaming x, and it's getting bellow 70°C with 1400rpm on it. I know the 1070ti has a much lower power draw, but it also has a much slimmer radiator on it.

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## speed_demon

^ With an OC'd reference cooler GTX 680 which is a hot running card I never saw temps past 72c in my define s. The cooling was good enough I removed two fans and just used 2x140mm intakes for the whole system. Worked great and was always quiet.


----------



## t1337dude

Got my new 9600k build set up in the Fractal Design Define Mini C based on HZCH's setup that I quoted on the last page. I love it. It's a huge upgrade coming from my Corsair 250d. For one, the 1080Ti actually fits without me worrying about breaking it  And the overall design is noticeably quieter. I'm tempted to even replace my Corsair 450d desktop build with one of these because I'm now realizing how much of an eye-sore the dust filter is on the front of the 450d. Was really a breeze to build in. Now I'm ordering one of those Morpheus II coolers now that I have all that extra space  Excited to have a silent GPU

EDIT: One thing I was curious about if anyone knew...

Assuming that I'm using the same fan and that I'm adjusting both setups to the same volume - which moves more air? 3x120mm front fans or 2x140mm front fans? I've read a lot of different arguments for both but it's never very scientific because they're never controlling for sound volume (which to me seems like the obvious way to compare the desirability of the fan).


----------



## Fractal Design

a5ian300zx said:


> I do have one 3.5 hdd installed on normal place but this has rubber mounts from what I remember.
> 
> The two fans are securely mounted, it's like the front grill is loose which it is not.
> 
> Thanks


Does the noise go away if you remove the bottom filter?


----------



## a5ian300zx

Fractal Design said:


> Does the noise go away if you remove the bottom filter?


I opened the case up and went through everything and it all looked fine so I close the case and tested again and the noise disappeared so it must have been something loose in the case.

Thank you for getting back to me and it's good to see actual manufacturers supporting their products. 

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## soloman02

Fullereneshift said:


> 2x 140mm and 1x 120mm is possible in the ATX version. 3x 140mm is plausible but it'll be a tight squeeze. 140s here are be quiet Silent Wings 3 High-Speed, and one of the stock Fractal fans.


Cool. I pulled the trigger and ordered the Meshify C. Should arrive tomorrow. I'm going to move my current components into this case and see how it runs with all 120mm Arctic Cooling F12s (what I currently have in use).


----------



## Danzle

Today i got my Strix 2080Ti OC and used the chance to repaste the CPU, add two more NF-A14, to complete the quiet theme. Also did some re-managing of the cables, re-position the SSD for some cooling and added a Universal VGA Holder (by Cooler Master), to support that behemoth of a GPU and use the leftover support to "hold" the NH-D15 a bit. kek

Rly enjoy how quiet everything is, even with my rather agressive fancurves.


----------



## Fractal Design

a5ian300zx said:


> I opened the case up and went through everything and it all looked fine so I close the case and tested again and the noise disappeared so it must have been something loose in the case.
> 
> Thank you for getting back to me and it's good to see actual manufacturers supporting their products.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


Odd. I wonder what I could have been. Whatever it was, glad to hear it's gone now.


----------



## iSpark

Fractal Design said:


> Odd. I wonder what I could have been. Whatever it was, glad to hear it's gone now.



I know on my Define R6 the front panel grille/air filter, when snapped into place becomes ever so slightly loose (just the way the mechanics are that hold it in place) which can cause a vibrating "buzzing" rattling noise, especially if everything and God come together just right, it can make quite an aggravating sound. I noticed this last night. :-\

Also, the extremely thin metal that is used for the fan/radiator mounts, front, top and bottom, (the top mount is a little better) can vibrate too.

I really like the case, but these manufacture shortcuts is rather disappointing considering what was paid for it.


----------



## Shenhua

iSpark said:


> I know on my Define R6 the front panel grille/air filter, when snapped into place becomes ever so slightly loose (just the way the mechanics are that hold it in place) which can cause a vibrating "buzzing" rattling noise, especially if everything and God come together just right, it can make quite an aggravating sound. I noticed this last night. :-\
> 
> Also, the extremely thin metal that is used for the fan/radiator mounts, front, top and bottom, (the top mount is a little better) can vibrate too.
> 
> I really like the case, but these manufacture shortcuts is rather disappointing considering what was paid for it.


I'm ignoring the legitimate complaint u making, but u can solve the fan mounting issue with rubber bits. You can find them for 1-2€ in packs of 20-30.

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Danzle

iSpark said:


> I know on my Define R6 the front panel grille/air filter, when snapped into place becomes ever so slightly loose (just the way the mechanics are that hold it in place) which can cause a vibrating "buzzing" rattling noise, especially if everything and God come together just right, it can make quite an aggravating sound. I noticed this last night. :-\
> 
> Also, the extremely thin metal that is used for the fan/radiator mounts, front, top and bottom, (the top mount is a little better) can vibrate too.
> 
> I really like the case, but these manufacture shortcuts is rather disappointing considering what was paid for it.


I used to have a similar problem in the front. Turnet out to be my Noctua Industrial 140mm fan. When stoping the fan manually, the noise went away for some time, but started again. Was a fast, background ratling. Probably bearing done, so i replaced it with a NF-a14.


----------



## Deadroger

I decided to replace my ancient and massive Coolermaster hafx with a Meshify C Dark TG after building a friends new pc for him in one and being very impressed with it. So got one for myself. I was going to wait untill a new cpu/motherboard/ram upgrade in the summer but I was sick and tired of looking at the hafx for 7 years!


----------



## a5ian300zx

Those who have front mounted rads, do you have yours as exhaust or intake?

Also if intake do you mount the fans in front of the rad so it can take the most cold air in as possible and you can see any rgb from front of the case? Or do you mount it behind the rad as intake as the cool air will filter through the hot rad fins?

I know some say it does not make much difference and some a certain ways the like it.

Just curious to know everyones thoughts.

Thanks 

Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## lb_felipe

@Fractal Design

Do Define R6, Define S2 and Meshify S2 sauport 6 120mm fans (1 rear, 3 front and 2 bottom) plus a 60mm thick radiator on top? Note that fans are 120mm not 140mm and the radiator is the HWLabs SR2 360.


----------



## psychrage

@lb_felipe You'd be better off with the 60mm 360 rad at the front. You'd likely have clearance issue with the motherboard, specifically ram with the 360/60 rad on top. But in theory, yes, you could do it that way.


----------



## Fractal Design

lb_felipe said:


> @Fractal Design
> 
> Do Define R6, Define S2 and Meshify S2 sauport 6 120mm fans (1 rear, 3 front and 2 bottom) plus a 60mm thick radiator on top? Note that fans are 120mm not 140mm and the radiator is the HWLabs SR2 360.


Yes, but you'll need to mind the height on your motherboard components. As long as your RAM height is under about 48-49mm and your case is in open layout (if it's an R6), then there's not really any practical limit on thickness for a radiator of this width. Shouldn't get in the way of the other fans either.


----------



## Chargeit

Hey guys.

I own a Define R5 blackout windowed case. I'm wanting to move over to a case with TG. One issue I have with my R5 is my H115i (280mm) has to be mounted as a front intake as my mobo gets in the way of it being mounted as a top exhaust. 

Would any of the newer Fractal TG cases allow for me to mount my H115i (280mm) as a top exhaust? If so, which one should I look at? To clarify I want one that is large enough to mount a 280mm rad as exhaust without a chance of interfering with my mobo. 

Thanks.


----------



## AlphaC

*R6 specs list:*
Top Standard layout: 120/240/360 mm (max 35 mm motherboard component height)
Top Open layout: 120/240/360 mm - 140/280/420 mm (max 35 mm motherboard component height)


along with 280 bottom radiator


It's the same with Meshify S2 or Define S2


----------



## Chargeit

AlphaC said:


> *R6 specs list:*
> Top Standard layout: 120/240/360 mm (max 35 mm motherboard component height)
> Top Open layout: 120/240/360 mm - 140/280/420 mm (max 35 mm motherboard component height)
> 
> 
> along with 280 bottom radiator
> 
> 
> It's the same with Meshify S2 or Define S2


Thanks.

Sounds like clearance is still an issue. Guess I'll have to go with a different case.


----------



## a5ian300zx

Some custom psu cables added. Just waiting for gpu cable now.

Psu: seasonic prime ultra titanium

Ps: the cable that came with psu are actually really good black flat ones.









Sent from my Samsung Note 9 using Tapatalk


----------



## Fractal Design

FYI, we make addressable RGB fans now. Just thought I'd stop by to share the news:

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/fractal-design-introduces-prisma-fan-series


----------



## AlphaC

Fractal Design said:


> FYI, we make addressable RGB fans now. Just thought I'd stop by to share the news:
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/news/fractal-design-introduces-prisma-fan-series



Is there any airflow improvement on the R6 front panel or on radiators? Bearing is "LLS" / long life sleeve whatever that means, probably a rifle bearing of some sort. MTBF is stated as 100K Hours rather than 150K from the Venturi series with FDB.



http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/prisma-series/prisma-al-14-/pwm



Prisma AL-14 PWM:
500 – 1700 RPM
103.85 CFM , 2.38 mmH2O
34dB



Prisma AL-14 :
1000 RPM
63.33 CFM , 1.07 mmH2O
19.4dB


I think that the pressure increase is minimal for the 1000RPM one despite the large drop in the CFM rating:
118 CFM is stated as the maximum for Venturi HF-14 (max 1200RPM) with FDB and 11 blades
78.1 CFM , 1.94 mmH2O is stated for the Venturi HP-14 (max 1500RPM) with FDB and 7 blades
105.9 CFM , and 1.95 mmH2O is stated for the Dynamic X2 GP-14 PWM (1700 RPM) with 7 blades
68.4 CFM , 0.71 mmH2O is stated as maximum for Dynamic X2 GP-14 (1000RPM)


It looks like the GP-14 has been given RGB and lower angle of attack for the fan blades while dropping the trailing edge vortex control notches of the Dynamic Gp-14 / Venturi.

Per sites on the internet the MSRP is supposedly $28 for a single 140mm PWM fan and $70 for a 3 pack which is rather pricey. A Phanteks Halos fan frame makes any decent fan a RGB fan for $10 off Amazon.









https://techreport.com/news/34489/fractal-design-shines-a-light-on-its-prisma-fans


----------



## Fractal Design

AlphaC said:


> Is there any airflow improvement on the R6 front panel or on radiators? Bearing is "LLS" / long life sleeve whatever that means, probably a rifle bearing of some sort. MTBF is stated as 100K Hours rather than 150K from the Venturi series with FDB.
> 
> http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/prisma-series/prisma-al-14-/pwm
> 
> Prisma AL-14 PWM:
> 500 – 1700 RPM
> 103.85 CFM , 2.38 mmH2O
> 34dB
> 
> Prisma AL-14 :
> 1000 RPM
> 63.33 CFM , 1.07 mmH2O
> 19.4dB
> 
> I think that the pressure increase is minimal for the 1000RPM one despite the large drop in the CFM rating:
> 118 CFM is stated as the maximum for Venturi HF-14 (max 1200RPM) with FDB and 11 blades
> 78.1 CFM , 1.94 mmH2O is stated for the Venturi HP-14 (max 1500RPM) with FDB and 7 blades
> 105.9 CFM , and 1.95 mmH2O is stated for the Dynamic X2 GP-14 PWM (1700 RPM) with 7 blades
> 68.4 CFM , 0.71 mmH2O is stated as maximum for Dynamic X2 GP-14 (1000RPM)
> 
> It looks like the GP-14 has been given RGB and lower angle of attack for the fan blades while dropping the trailing edge vortex control notches of the Dynamic Gp-14 / Venturi.
> 
> Per sites on the internet the MSRP is supposedly $28 for a single 140mm PWM fan and $70 for a 3 pack which is rather pricey. A Phanteks Halos fan frame makes any decent fan a RGB fan for $10 off Amazon.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kVfgNitO_E
> 
> https://techreport.com/news/34489/fractal-design-shines-a-light-on-its-prisma-fans


I'd say performance is more or less equivalent between Prisma and Dynamic X2 fans of the same size and connection type. I doubt you'd notice a difference going from a Dynamic GP-14 to a Prisma AL/SL-14, but speaking from personal experience the PWM versions are surprisingly strong as general purpose case fans, even compared to Venturi, so I could easily recommend the Prisma AL-14 PWM as airflow upgrade for the R6 (or any case, really). As for the Long-life Sleeve bearings, I'm not trying to be smart here but they really are just as they say, sleeve bearings with a longer life. Nothing revolutionary in a fundamental design sense, but it does last twice as long as the prior solution.

Regarding price, cheaper RGB fans are available, sure, but not with the same combination of features, performance, and build quality. For instance, RGB and ARGB are not the same, and the more basic RGB fans typically have to be used with proprietary control boxes and aren't compatible with standard controls and connectors on RGB motherboards. I'm sure Halos fan frames are perfectly fine if that's the sort of solution you're looking for, but I'm not sure how fair it is to compare fans to fan frames on price. Just depends on whether you actually want the fan, I suppose. I think Prisma's a good deal considering what goes into it though. There's just a lot of attention to detail on the styling, cables, everything really, and I'm probably a little biased being the Fractal Design guy and all but in my personal opinion they're the best looking LED fans out there currently.


----------



## Jidonsu

Does anyone know if the front page panel Define R6 and S2 are swappable? I’m thinking of getting one for my S2 if it fits. I noticed that my water temps drop a few degrees if I remove my front panel on the S2. If I can just open a door when I need to, that would be awesome.


----------



## Zammin

I just noticed today that my Define S2 appears to have come with a large, yet shallow dent in the front panel. It's difficult to see at certain angles due to the brushed metal and the way the light hits it but when I stand back at a distance it becomes very noticeable. I tried my best to capture it on my phone but because I had to stand back I needed to use the horrible digital zoom which hurts the image quality. Has anyone else got this defect on there S2 or R6? Does this dent qualify for a replacement front panel? I would have expected it to be flat, being brand new and all. I tried removing the front panel to see if I could push it from the other side to straighten it out but it won't change at all. I can feel it when running my hand over it as well. I haven't had much luck so far with my Fractal vertical mount kit requiring modification for my GPU to fit properly and now this dent on my new S2 :/


----------



## AlphaC

Jidonsu said:


> Does anyone know if the front page panel Define R6 and S2 are swappable? I’m thinking of getting one for my S2 if it fits. I noticed that my water temps drop a few degrees if I remove my front panel on the S2. If I can just open a door when I need to, that would be awesome.


 It should be based off the holes , I'd contact support before ordering a door though


This should be the door: https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R6-Front-Schwarz


front filter: https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R6-Staubfilter-vorne-Schwarz


----------



## Fractal Design

Zammin said:


> I just noticed today that my Define S2 appears to have come with a large, yet shallow dent in the front panel. It's difficult to see at certain angles due to the brushed metal and the way the light hits it but when I stand back at a distance it becomes very noticeable. I tried my best to capture it on my phone but because I had to stand back I needed to use the horrible digital zoom which hurts the image quality. Has anyone else got this defect on there S2 or R6? Does this dent qualify for a replacement front panel? I would have expected it to be flat, being brand new and all. I tried removing the front panel to see if I could push it from the other side to straighten it out but it won't change at all. I can feel it when running my hand over it as well. I haven't had much luck so far with my Fractal vertical mount kit requiring modification for my GPU to fit properly and now this dent on my new S2 :/


I'd get in touch with our support team over at support.fractal-design.com. If your new case came with a warped or dented panel then that certainly sounds like a warranty issue to me. They'll be able to help sort out the vertical GPU installation as well.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> I'd get in touch with our support team over at support.fractal-design.com. If your new case came with a warped or dented panel then that certainly sounds like a warranty issue to me. They'll be able to help sort out the vertical GPU installation as well.


That's okay I've already fixed the GPU mount issue with some washers as I posted a while back, didn't have time to wait for a replacement that may or may not have fixed the issue since I was already mid build. But yeah I have opened another ticket with support the other day, just waiting for them to respond. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> I'd get in touch with our support team over at support.fractal-design.com. If your new case came with a warped or dented panel then that certainly sounds like a warranty issue to me. They'll be able to help sort out the vertical GPU installation as well.





Zammin said:


> That's okay I've already fixed the GPU mount issue with some washers as I posted a while back, didn't have time to wait for a replacement that may or may not have fixed the issue since I was already mid build. But yeah I have opened another ticket with support the other day, just waiting for them to respond. Thanks for the reply.


Hey I opened the above mentioned ticket 3 days ago and haven't gotten a response yet, any chance you could ask someone at support to check my ticket when you get a moment? The ticket number is #71270. Last time I opened a ticket there were pretty large delays in responses for a while as well.


----------



## Fractal Design

Zammin said:


> Hey I opened the above mentioned ticket 3 days ago and haven't gotten a response yet, any chance you could ask someone at support to check my ticket when you get a moment? The ticket number is #71270. Last time I opened a ticket there were pretty large delays in responses for a while as well.


Sorry about the wait. Apparently I'm moving slower than usual too this week. So I checked in with the support team here at the North American office where I'm located, and we can see that you're long overdue for a response but since you're in another region I'll have to poke someone at HQ right quick to see if I can find out what the holdup is.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> Sorry about the wait. Apparently I'm moving slower than usual too this week. So I checked in with the support team here at the North American office where I'm located, and we can see that you're long overdue for a response but since you're in another region I'll have to poke someone at HQ right quick to see if I can find out what the holdup is.


Thanks very much, appreciate it.


----------



## junneh

I want to buy either r6 or s2.

Have some questions about the R6: 

1. Does it also come with the little plate to cover the psu shroud (for when in open layout)? (If not am sure can get this from fractal spare parts tho)

2. With the 5'25 bay up top, and the PSU shrould fully closed.. would it fit a 280mm rad/aio?

thanks


----------



## Fractal Design

junneh said:


> I want to buy either r6 or s2.
> 
> Have some questions about the R6:
> 
> 1. Does it also come with the little plate to cover the psu shroud (for when in open layout)? (If not am sure can get this from fractal spare parts tho)
> 
> 2. With the 5'25 bay up top, and the PSU shrould fully closed.. would it fit a 280mm rad/aio?
> 
> thanks


The S2 has the front cover for the PSU shroud but the R6 does not. The part unfortunately isn't available for sale separately, either. You wouldn't be the first to ask though, and for what it's worth I do still make it a point to keep passing these sort of requests on to HQ. If you were to install the cover in an R6, though, I don't believe you'd have quite enough room for a 280mm rad in the front since there's just right at 280mm of clearance between the ODD bay and the top of the shroud. You'd be able to fit the two 140mm fans, but the rad itself would be too tall.


----------



## JackCY

The doors are usually swappable as well as other parts as long as what you're swapping is attaching to the same "metal" part since FD (and pretty much everyone) reuses as many components as possible because they can stamp out the same part, don't need to make a new "die" and have another machine for stamping a different part. Most cases from FD are very similar only differing in certain parts while other are the same as in other recent cases.

Fairly easy to see from pictures what parts are equal and what you could Frankenstein swap around.


----------



## Zammin

Fractal Design said:


> Sorry about the wait. Apparently I'm moving slower than usual too this week. So I checked in with the support team here at the North American office where I'm located, and we can see that you're long overdue for a response but since you're in another region I'll have to poke someone at HQ right quick to see if I can find out what the holdup is.


Just a heads up I still have not received a reply from support.


----------



## Zammin

Still no reply from Support after 11 days since opening the ticket.. I've sent them another message hoping for a reply..


----------



## Fractal Design

Zammin said:


> Still no reply from Support after 11 days since opening the ticket.. I've sent them another message hoping for a reply..


Ok, sounds like I need to go over there and thump someone's ears to get their attention. Unless something glitched out somewhere I can't imagine why it'd be taking so long. We generally maintain a same-day response time; 24 hours is par, and sometimes we get a bit behind if there's a holiday or something, but 11 days is a little silly. I'll see if I can figure out what's going on here. Sorry this has been such a hassle so far.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

Zammin said:


> Still no reply from Support after 11 days since opening the ticket.. I've sent them another message hoping for a reply..


That's weird. I contacted their support a couple of months ago, and got an answer early next day.


----------



## Owterspace

I recently switched from an R4 to a Meshify C. Its a bit tight but I got it to work. Airflow is not a problem lol. Ive got 4 hdds and an ssd stuffed in there, pretty slick.


----------



## AlphaC

What happened to your Thermalright fan clip?


Should be able to get more of them from Thermalright: http://thermalright.com/product/120140mm-fan-clips-with-triangle-cushion-pads/


----------



## Owterspace

Sorry for the late reply, had a hard time logging in. I am just using a clip for orientation, and the ziptie is holding it tight. I just added a fan for pull, and redid my ziptie. I am just using one clip for the rear for orientation, the ziptie holds the fan much tighter. So no worries about bumps and nudges, and no vibration because I am not using the iso pads. Its a tight fit, but still a mm or so to go 

I snapped a shot through a screw slot, I was moving some fans around, and decided to go back to push/pull on the cpu.


----------



## junneh

Quick question:

In a Define R6, with the ODD drive bay removed. Is it possible to mount a 280mm Rad (aio) in the front, mounted high enough so that the optional psu shroud cover (that comes with S2 versions, for the hole in the basement). will still fit underneath and neatly close my full psu shroud? I cant fin any definitve info on this.

Its fine if the rad is blocking the ODD or its only hanging by 6 screws... I just want to know wether its possible and to still close the PSU cover. (imho r6 in open layout looks neater then s2, except the gaping hole. thats why..)


Also: a 280 mm in the top with CLOSED (stock) layout is impossible i think?


----------



## Krzych04650

For anyone with Meshify C, now much space there is between the front fan mounting points and the mesh front, where you normally can mount fans, but you cant with Meshify? I want to find out how far forward front panel needs to be moved (modded) to fit a normal thickness 120mm fan in there?

EDIT: Nevermind, I've figured out a better way without affecting outside appearance.


----------



## 414347

Papa Emeritus said:


> That's weird. I contacted their support a couple of months ago, and got an answer early next day.


New here to Fractal cases and right from Get-Go not good experience as far is support... NO NO for me.

I was considering on one of their cases few weeks ago for my son and possible one for my own project, it seem OK case, compact size, yet allowing to put 8 HDDs and ATX M/B but when I emailed Fractal support several times, at least 3-4 separate emails up to date heaven t heard from them. 

To me, even if a product is worthy of attention, customer service is even more important and that have turned me away from fractal, to bad.


----------



## Papa Emeritus

NewUser16 said:


> New here to Fractal cases. I was considering on one of their cases few weeks ago due to the compact size yet availability to put 8 HDDs and ATX M/B but when I emailed them several times, at least 3-4 separate emails up to date heaven t heard from them.
> 
> To me, even if a product is worthy of attention, customer service is even more important and that have turned me away from fractal, to bad.


Maybe it depends on the region, im in europe. Their support/customer service should be the same no matter where you are located you would think.


----------



## 414347

Papa Emeritus said:


> Maybe it depends on the region, im in europe. Their support/customer service should be the same no matter where you are located you would think.


Could be, but I chose the "world" option as far is which support, then separately US or something in that line. I was exited but sadly that excitement got tinted quickly. I understand emails can get either lost or in some cases not even get to the destination that's why I sent several of them at different times , but no, nothing back, yah, its OK as I said the first experience is not the one I was expecting I move on in search


----------



## 414347

Although I do have a question. How is their rigidness I don't expect Fractal to be like Caselabs (unfortunately gone now) that you could latterly place 400lbs on the frame and still stand but I wouldn't want flimsy or to flexible structure.
Thanks


----------



## Fractal Design

NewUser16 said:


> Could be, but I chose the "world" option as far is which support, then separately US or something in that line. I was exited but sadly that excitement got tinted quickly. I understand emails can get either lost or in some cases not even get to the destination that's why I sent several of them at different times , but no, nothing back, yah, its OK as I said the first experience is not the one I was expecting I move on in search


It shouldn't take multiple emails or weeks of waiting to get a response regardless of the region. Really sorry you've had to go through all that. Do you have a ticket number I can use to look into your case and hopefully find out what happened with your response?


----------



## imtlmzamora

Hi! I want to buy the Focus G Mini but the only way I think I cant put it in my house is to rest on the side; someone have do that? what can I use as feet if I put in the side?

http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2017/05/fractal-design-focus-g-mini-review/focusgm-6b.jpg


----------



## Fractal Design

imtlmzamora said:


> Hi! I want to buy the Focus G Mini but the only way I think I cant put it in my house is to rest on the side; someone have do that? what can I use as feet if I put in the side?
> 
> http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2017/05/fractal-design-focus-g-mini-review/focusgm-6b.jpg


I suppose you could always pick up some adhesive rubber feet to stick on the right hand side panel. You'd just want to make sure they're tall enough to keep the case from resting on the tapered bevel in the middle the panel, which sticks out about 10 mm at its highest point.

Alternatively, if you happen to have photo frame or something similar with a 12 x 14" opening, it'd be almost exactly the right size for that beveled area (which measures 350 x 290 mm) to nest the case in the middle, kind of like a display stand. A bit unconventional, but it's another idea that hit me as I was looking at the case just a moment ago.

It might not look particularly nice from the left where you'd have the bottom of the case facing the side, but I think the layout of the Focus G Mini might actually work quite well in a horizontal orientation since you can access pretty much all your hardware from the window side.


----------



## thlmk

I can't find if the Fractal Design Define C USB 3.0 Front Header fits the ROG Maximus Code, anybody know? You can see the connectors on page 32/ chapter 1-16 in their manual, but it seems like the Define C uses an older version that needs more pins? https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...S_X_CODE/E13461_ROG_MAXIMUS_X_CODE_UM_WEB.pdf 

It seems like I need a connector like the one on the right, UG31_34, and the Maximus X Code seem to only have one like on the left. Would love to get a clarification by an Fractal representative or if anybody else know. 

Thank you for your answer.


----------



## dwolvin

Aren't those the same, just rotated? Honestly looks that way to me, but I'm about to fall asleep...


----------



## Fractal Design

Define C uses the standard 20 pin connector for USB 3.0, same as all our other cases and every board I've ever run across. Should fit the header on your board just fine. If there is a board out there with an incompatible USB 3.0 header then we've never heard from anyone who owned one.


----------



## Greenish_

Hello Fractal Design fans, 
Wanted to ask few questions.
Mostly here are posted builds where we don't see a lot hard drives installed in Define R6 cases. 
But what I wanted to figure out, is how these cases (R6) "sounds" when multiple 4+ 5400RPM drives are installed and running.

Currently now I have old case, that is not loud, but sleeping next to it won't be easy task. 
Mostly from reviews people say its quieter than regular cases, but is it that noticeable?

Can someone give his/her experience about building PC in R6 case, when bunch of HDD's are used? Like expectations & reality. =)
Thanks.


----------



## man from atlantis

Hi all,

I just ordered Meshify S2 and 3 additional be quiet sw3 1000rpm fans on top the ones the case come up with. I'd like to take your valuable opinions in what configuration should you use the 6 14cm fans? I'm thinking doing it like 3 sw3's on the front mesh since they have slighty higher air pressure compared to the dynamic x2. And use one of the dynamic on the bottom front as intake and the other dynamic on the top bottom as exhaust fan.


----------



## Fractal Design

man from atlantis said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just ordered Meshify S2 and 3 additional be quiet sw3 1000rpm fans on top the ones the case come up with. I'd like to take your valuable opinions in what configuration should you use the 6 14cm fans? I'm thinking doing it like 3 sw3's on the front mesh since they have slighty higher air pressure compared to the dynamic x2. And use one of the dynamic on the bottom front as intake and the other dynamic on the top bottom as exhaust fan.


Sounds like an optimal setup to me. I'd probably face the CPU cooler to exhaust upwards to get the most airflow through the GPU region, but that's just my preference.


----------



## Shenhua

Fractal Design said:


> Sounds like an optimal setup to me. I'd probably face the CPU cooler to exhaust upwards to get the most airflow through the GPU region, but that's just my preference.


If you don't need the drive cage, put 2 on the ground, and run them even slower. Also clean the PSU shroud of cables and tuck them behind the motherboard as best as you can. That should allow you run the fans as slow as possible.
About the exhaust, you can test, but i doubt it's gonna make any difference in temps.....im running a very similar setup in my Meshify C and while i haven't tested if exhaust make any difference, I don't really need one, im running my fans at bellow 800 rpm on full load and temps are in the 50s on the CPU and 60s on the GPU.


----------



## man from atlantis

I ended up ordering 5 be quiet fans. Now there are 5 intakes (3 front panel, 2 bottom all bequiet sw3 1000rpm) and 3 exhausts (1 back panel, 2 top panel all default fractal dynamics) all connected to the nexus fan controller that controlled via motherboard. Temps and sound levels are amazing. In daily desktop usage I dont hear anything, case fans hover around 250rpm. In games like oddysey which is thoughest game on both cpu and gpu that causes power consumption levels to 450W (w screen and sound system), GPU fans overwhelms all the other fans. In my previous case (thermaltake tsunami dream single 12cm fan p/p configuration) my rams was hot @48C, now they barely pass 42C and the ambient temp is easily higher nowadays. I also have higher pbo frequency used to during high cpu utilisation it was going low as 4100MHz, and these days i havent seen they going dpwn 4225MHz, and theyare mainly around 4300MHz. In short im very happy with the temps and noise levels. The semi hidden front panel led is gorgeusly lit during night nothing like eyeblinding. I know it's a case mainly for watercooling enthusiasts but I'm very happy with it.


----------



## Bi5h0p

It's been a while since the Fractal surprised us with the ITX case .... I am really looking forward for a new Nano S ....


----------



## d0mmie

Bi5h0p said:


> It's been a while since the Fractal surprised us with the ITX case .... I am really looking forward for a new Nano S ....


Hear, hear!


----------



## man from atlantis

my rig


----------



## The Pook

man from atlantis said:


> my rig



Looks good. Get rid of the spaghetti noodle extensions though and get thicker ones. They're cheap 

I went from a cheap Antec extension kit to a nice kit (that was really only ~$5 more) and it helped a ton.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZJZNYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## MiiX

Threw a Corsair H100i inside my C1000, its a temporary case as I'v just got around to start finishing my original plan, Cold Devil
This is basicly a test case by now, loads of cutouts and dents


----------



## Gunderman456

The Pook said:


> Looks good. Get rid of the spaghetti noodle extensions though and get thicker ones. They're cheap
> 
> I went from a cheap Antec extension kit to a nice kit (that was really only ~$5 more) and it helped a ton.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071ZJZNYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


How do these cables work? I know that if you mix cables you can blow a PSU. How are these cables compatible with all kinds of PSUs?


----------



## The Pook

Gunderman456 said:


> How do these cables work? I know that if you mix cables you can blow a PSU. How are these cables compatible with all kinds of PSUs?



The wrong _replacement_ cables can blow a PSU, extensions are just extensions. You just plug them into the end of your existing cables, they're universal.

The pinout on your PSU varies depending on the model of PSU, the end of the cable are all the same or else you'd have to match your PSU with certain components.


----------



## Gunderman456

The Pook said:


> The wrong _replacement_ cables can blow a PSU, extensions are just extensions. You just plug them into the end of your existing cables, they're universal.
> 
> The pinout on your PSU varies depending on the model of PSU, the end of the cable are all the same or else you'd have to match your PSU with certain components.


So you plug these to the existing plugs and hide those while only exposing the colorful extensions? I see. Thanks.


----------



## The Pook

Gunderman456 said:


> So you plug these to the existing plugs and hide those while only exposing the colorful extensions? I see. Thanks.



Pretty much. Can make the back of the case a bit of a mess but if you have the room it's a non-issue


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Sleeved extensions are pretty great. I have ones from Phanteks which usually go for around $30. A super tight squeeze in my Define Mini C TG, but it's definitely worth it.


----------



## Loladinas

What I did, instead of using extensions, was bought a cheap set of replacement cables from a chinese etailer, looked up the pinout for my PSU online and moved the pins around in the connector into the correct order. A bit more work, but repinning isn't exactly complicated, doable with as little equipment as a paperclip. Saves a fair bit on space and cable spaghetti.


----------



## lurker2501

Hello guys. Can someone tell me what is the rivet size on Fractal Design cases, particularity Arc series and where I can get them?


----------



## Fractal Design

They should all be 3.2mm x 6mm dome rivets. 

This is one of the first sellers that popped up in a Google search, but plenty of others were available: https://www.accu.co.uk/en/dome-rive...L2bSHlefCX30bbA5vKJ6-we6qv-fWUA8aArrAEALw_wcB


----------



## Fullereneshift

Continuing from my previous adventure; I've managed to squeeze 3x 140mm fans in the front of the Meshify C by way of a round frame 140mm fan that utilizes 120mm mounting holes in order to move it up slightly and allow the bottom 140mm fan to fit. It's a pretty snug fit, as the top fan is brushing against the I/O cables and none of the fans can move up or down, but it works well enough.


----------



## Shenhua

Fullereneshift said:


> Continuing from my previous adventure; I've managed to squeeze 3x 140mm fans in the front of the Meshify C by way of a round frame 140mm fan that utilizes 120mm mounting holes in order to move it up slightly and allow the bottom 140mm fan to fit. It's a pretty snug fit, as the top fan is brushing against the I/O cables and none of the fans can move up or down, but it works well enough.


Welcome to the club bro ( mine is 2x140+1x120 tho).









By the way, does the fan on the bottom, make any difference in thermals?


----------



## Owterspace

I like how that looks with 3x140s. Im just rockin 3x120s. For me, the bottom fan is more just to move some air around my 3.5 hdd, and as a benefit the gpu gets a little extra. I like how you opened up the bottom like that and stuck a fan there.


----------



## Acrab

My pc, with R6


----------



## MostUnclean

Hey guys, new Meshify S2 owner here. Looking to put in 2 HWLabs GTS 360mm rads, and I 'm curious if anyone has gotten dual 360's in a push/pull config in the case?


----------



## SHNS0

Fractal Design Meshify Mini - absolutely loved working in this case


----------



## Qu1ckset

Was fractal not at Computex ?


----------



## Sharangir

Hey all

I'm working on a new concept to realise.

I want to build a silent HTPC/Plex server and was considering the Node 202 with a Ryzen 5 2400G inside.
Not needing a dedicated GPU, I thought I'd install an Alphacool Eisbaer LT240 on the APU.

The Eisbaer is great for this purpose, because it fits and because you can actually change the tubing out. (That's the crucial part here, because with all the other aios, you'll need to flex some off of the frame separator in the case, in order to fit the pump through.
Also, having that option, I can install Norprene tubes in just the right length.

There is, however, one issue that I'm afraid will occur:
https://img.conseil-config.com/2016/02/Fractal_Design_Node_202_interieur_filtre_carte_graphique.jpg

This is the compartment for the graphics card, where I want to install the 240mm rad. 
I think I won't be able to have the inlets facing to the right where they would collide with the power connector.

However, what about the left side?
Everything I saw so far had only a 120mm rad in there, with the inlets facing the separator.



Does anyone here have the Node 202 with a 240mm aio?


Any input on how to solve this issue?
- Do the inlets not collide with the i/o board in the front? 
- Is there an alternative for the power connector (so that it doesn't collide with the rad inlets)
- Is there an option to move/shift the rad inside the case without having to drill new holes into the bottom? (I would 100% mess up the alignment!)
- Would it help to install the fans in the floor and the radiator on top? (There's probably 65mm of vertical clearance inside, so the 25mm rad with 25mm fans would leave 15mm of space on top.)


----------



## Blze001

Qu1ckset said:


> Was fractal not at Computex ?


Didn't they already show their new cases back in April?

At any rate, I didn't see any mention of them in any of the coverage I followed.


----------



## AlphaC

I think they showed off their existing cases (such as the new rgb one) and modded cases


https://news.xfastest.com/computex-2019/19-interview/63974/computex-2019-fractal-design/


----------



## Turgin

@Fractal Design

I currently have an R5 and looking at possibly getting either an R6 (open layout) or an S2 but want to verify radiator compatibility. I want to put a Hardware Labs 280GTX in the front. Measurements are 312mm x 153mm x 54mm (L x W x H) and I will be using Noiseblocker B14-PS fans which are 29mm thick. This fits just fine in my R5 but I want to be sure.


----------



## JAM3S121

Would I benefit from putting my h100i v2 as a intake in the front of the case instead of intake from the top? My i7 7700k at stock clocks/volts hits 86c running the asus benchmark test. I'm using 3 regular fractal fans (the white ones that come with the case) (2 intake, 1 exhaust) plus stock fans on the h100i v2.


I'm planning to strip the rig soon because I have a define c TG that i never opened and moving the parts to this case. Also planning to upgrade the fans.


----------



## MostUnclean

I personally have a Celcius S36 mounted in the front as intake, and my cpu has great temps, at 5ghz all core overclock. I would definitely recommend it. I also have 6 corsair ML120's in push pull, which help with air flow for my gpu, which does not get any warmer than it did with the AIO as exhaust.


----------



## JAM3S121

MostUnclean said:


> I personally have a Celcius S36 mounted in the front as intake, and my cpu has great temps, at 5ghz all core overclock. I would definitely recommend it. I also have 6 corsair ML120's in push pull, which help with air flow for my gpu, which does not get any warmer than it did with the AIO as exhaust.



Do you like those fans? Now that I just checked I think my cpu voltage is wrong (i raised it but forgot to raise my oc) so my temps might not be as bad as i thought, but they definitely aren't that cool


----------



## MostUnclean

JAM3S121 said:


> Do you like those fans? Now that I just checked I think my cpu voltage is wrong (i raised it but forgot to raise my oc) so my temps might not be as bad as i thought, but they definitely aren't that cool


Actually they are pretty decent. They are loud though, at anything over 1000rpm, but, they cool well. When I finally piece together the rest of my loop, I will be changing the fans. If I'm patient, Noctua just announced all white versions of the NF-A12, but that's a long wait to Q1-Q2 of 2020 lol.


----------



## JAM3S121

MostUnclean said:


> Actually they are pretty decent. They are loud though, at anything over 1000rpm, but, they cool well. When I finally piece together the rest of my loop, I will be changing the fans. If I'm patient, Noctua just announced all white versions of the NF-A12, but that's a long wait to Q1-Q2 of 2020 lol.


I realized my corsair unit was set to quiet mode. I ran the asus "real bench" stress test again and my temps were about 8c less than before. I still think they are high and I'm eventually going to move this to front intake.


----------



## SHNS0

JAM3S121 said:


> Would I benefit from putting my h100i v2 as a intake in the front of the case instead of intake from the top? My i7 7700k at stock clocks/volts hits 86c running the asus benchmark test. I'm using 3 regular fractal fans (the white ones that come with the case) (2 intake, 1 exhaust) plus stock fans on the h100i v2.
> 
> 
> I'm planning to strip the rig soon because I have a define c TG that i never opened and moving the parts to this case. Also planning to upgrade the fans.


I'd recommend you to get some new fans for your AIO. High quality fans make a HUGE difference on dense, aluminium radiators.


----------



## Fractal Design

Turgin said:


> @Fractal Design
> 
> I currently have an R5 and looking at possibly getting either an R6 (open layout) or an S2 but want to verify radiator compatibility. I want to put a Hardware Labs 280GTX in the front. Measurements are 312mm x 153mm x 54mm (L x W x H) and I will be using Noiseblocker B14-PS fans which are 29mm thick. This fits just fine in my R5 but I want to be sure.


Width might be issue in either case, unfortunately, with both the S2 and open-layout R6 having a specified max front radiator width of 147mm. It might fit the R6 if you took the modular plate out entirely (which I've actually done in my own build because I think it looks cool), but that'd mean giving up your HDD mounts so that may or may not be something you'd want to consider. You would still have the option of mounting your rad in the top if your ram is less than 36mm tall, though.


----------



## JAM3S121

Does anyone know what length bolts I need to use to mount a h100i v2 (with fans) to the front of a define c. I believe this would be the same as the meshify c also. I have it mounted to the top currently.. but want to move it. I'm not sure if I just sandwich the case between the fan and the rad, or if i use the bolts to go from the case, to the fans, to the rad. Any help would be great!


----------



## The Pook

Anyone know how you remove the top dust filter on the Meshify S2 without ripping it out and ruining it? I don't think there's a way without just ripping it out and I don't wanna do that. 

the filter I'm talking about

Top fans are exhaust running @ 60%, and the filter is too dense and basically block them from actually exhausting air. If I remove the top "moduvent" entirely my GPU and CPU temps are 5-7c lower, but then it looks like crap because there's a big hole with exposed fans on the top of my PC. 



JAM3S121 said:


> Does anyone know what length bolts I need to use to mount a h100i v2 (with fans) to the front of a define c. I believe this would be the same as the meshify c also. I have it mounted to the top currently.. but want to move it. I'm not sure if I just sandwich the case between the fan and the rad, or if i use the bolts to go from the case, to the fans, to the rad. Any help would be great!



6/32 x 1.25" are the screws that come in the box, 6/32 x 1.5" should be long enough.


----------



## JackCY

You can remove the whole piece. If you want to remove the foam air blocking filter that's in it then you would have to bent out the metal tabs and separate metal and plastic parts from each other to get inside it and take the foam out.
The metal grill itself will block most airflow so with that foam in there... LOL it's like a solid wall really.


----------



## JAM3S121

Is it possible to put the meshify c front panel on the define c? It seems like the same exact case, and I know it would improve my temps.


----------



## The Pook

JAM3S121 said:


> Is it possible to put the meshify c front panel on the define c? It seems like the same exact case, and I know it would improve my temps.



Define C Mini and Meshify C Mini front panels aren't interchangeable and Define S2 and Meshify S2 aren't interchangeable, so I'd assume no. 



JackCY said:


> You can remove the whole piece. If you want to remove the foam air blocking filter that's in it then you would have to bent out the metal tabs and separate metal and plastic parts from each other to get inside it and take the foam out.
> The metal grill itself will block most airflow so with that foam in there... LOL it's like a solid wall really.



Tabs don't bend, they break. Guess I rip it out and if I wanna go back I just track down a replacement top


----------



## D13mass

Guys, which fans you would prefer for Fractal Meshify C on front and top?
Now I have 3 Noiseblocker NB-eLoop Fan B14-PS which almost always running in 800-900RPM, but thinking maybe need to change for something more case oriented (they are radiator oriented).


----------



## JackCY

That's some cheap metal then if it can't bend and breaks XD


----------



## Acrab

Hi,
I currently have an R6 case with the three stock fans X2 GP14. Someone who has changed them for others can confirm if have he noticed a drop in temperature, especially in the GPU?.
Thank you.


----------



## Fractal Design

The Pook said:


> Define C Mini and Meshify C Mini front panels aren't interchangeable and Define S2 and Meshify S2 aren't interchangeable, so I'd assume no.


They're interchangeable, but you'd need the panel, bezel, and front I/O to complete the swap. This goes for the Define S2 <-> Meshify S2, Define C <-> Meshify C, and Define Mini C <-> Meshify C Mini. You could even put a Meshify S2 front panel on a Define R6 if you really wanted to and had all the necessary parts.



The Pook said:


> Tabs don't bend, they break. Guess I rip it out and if I wanna go back I just track down a replacement top


They shouldn't break that easily. Was it the metal or plastic part that broke, and what were you using to peel the tabs back?


----------



## The Pook

Fractal Design said:


> They're interchangeable, but you'd need the panel, bezel, and front I/O to complete the swap. This goes for the Define S2 <-> Meshify S2, Define C <-> Meshify C, and Define Mini C <-> Meshify C Mini. You could even put a Meshify S2 front panel on a Define R6 if you really wanted to and had all the necessary parts.


awesome, didn't know the I/O was removable on the Define S2, thought it was fixed to the case.

but I was going by this on Fractal's Twitter for the Define Mini C <-> Meshify C Mini interchangeability, and they said no?

https://twitter.com/fractaldesignna/status/969296169951260672?lang=en



Fractal Design said:


> They shouldn't break that easily. Was it the metal or plastic part that broke, and what were you using to peel the tabs back?


Just a small pair of needle noise, the metal tabs broke. One broke bending out and a second broke after taking the filter out and bending them back closed. Not really a big deal since there's ~10 tabs but I'd still rather have 0 broke


----------



## NewType88

You guys gonna come out with a S2 nano ? put a third pci slot for me, so I can run my external rad !;p


----------



## Northman

Does anybody know if you can fit 3x Noctua A15 PMV fans in the front of the Meshify C?

Its a 140mm fan but with 120mm mounting holes.


----------



## Northman

I was reading GamerNexus review of the Meshify C and Meshify S2.

And I was wondering about temps they found.

Meshify C / S2
CPU 54.3 / 50.7
GPU 57.8 / 55.1
dB. 38.6. / 37.7

but removing the filter on the front panel on the S2, CPU temp drops from 50.7 to 46.2.
So I was wondering if anybody else has tried removing the filter on the C, to see if there is a equal drop in temps?

Changing stock fans to Noctua fans on the C, drops CPU temp from 54.3 to 47.3, and GPU from 57.8 to 56.2.
And that is not even fine tuning where they are positioned.

I am just extrapolating here... but removing the filter on the C and installing Nocuta fans, one should see almost the same drops... 
54.3 - 49.8 - 42.8


----------



## Shenhua

Northman said:


> I was reading GamerNexus review of the Meshify C and Meshify S2.
> 
> 
> 
> And I was wondering about temps they found.
> 
> 
> 
> Meshify C / S2
> 
> CPU 54.3 / 50.7
> 
> GPU 57.8 / 55.1
> 
> dB. 38.6. / 37.7
> 
> 
> 
> but removing the filter on the front panel on the S2, CPU temp drops from 50.7 to 46.2.
> 
> So I was wondering if anybody else has tried removing the filter on the C, to see if there is a equal drop in temps?
> 
> 
> 
> Changing stock fans to Noctua fans on the C, drops CPU temp from 54.3 to 47.3, and GPU from 57.8 to 56.2.
> 
> And that is not even fine tuning where they are positioned.
> 
> 
> 
> I am just extrapolating here... but removing the filter on the C and installing Nocuta fans, one should see almost the same drops...
> 
> 54.3 - 49.8 - 42.8


You can't compare the results, because they used different fans and in "different" positions (mid fan in the C was very high). 

You should get similar performance, probably a bit better in the Meshify if you run minimum number of fans at minimum RPM, and better in the define S, if you run many fans at mid-high RPM. The difference between each situation, is at best negligible.

Just get the one that fits your hardware and needs best.

That being said, the s2 give looks better, because it's more spacious, and with insufficient cooling (in this case fans poorly placed), that effect it's visible.


----------



## AlphaC

Northman said:


> I was reading GamerNexus review of the Meshify C and Meshify S2.
> 
> And I was wondering about temps they found.
> 
> Meshify C / S2
> CPU 54.3 / 50.7
> GPU 57.8 / 55.1
> dB. 38.6. / 37.7
> 
> but removing the filter on the front panel on the S2, CPU temp drops from 50.7 to 46.2.
> So I was wondering if anybody else has tried removing the filter on the C, to see if there is a equal drop in temps?
> 
> Changing stock fans to Noctua fans on the C, drops CPU temp from 54.3 to 47.3, and GPU from 57.8 to 56.2.
> And that is not even fine tuning where they are positioned.
> 
> I am just extrapolating here... but removing the filter on the C and installing Nocuta fans, one should see almost the same drops...
> 54.3 - 49.8 - 42.8



Optimum tech testing suggests the Meshify C is better when it uses 2 intake fans





The disparity from Meshify C to Meshify S2 is partly due to the use of 2x 140mm intakes on Meshify S2 and also his fan placement. The non-PWM version of 120mm is 1200RPM (52.3 CFM) while the 140mm one is supposed to be 1000RPM (68.4CFM).


----------



## Northman

My plan for the Meshify C is.
Remove foam filter in front..rely on mesh to stop most dust.

Noctua Fans
3 x A12x25 Intake
1 x A12x25 Rear Exhaust
1 x A12x25 Roof Exhaust
D15s CPU cooler

(3xA12x25 in front have shown to cool better, with 2-4 dB less noise then 2x Noctua A14 in front on this particular case.)

Cut up the PSU shroud for better air flow, remove all PCI slots, cut out grills in front of Exhaust fans for maximum airflow.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Hey guys, Im planning a rebuild on my Define R6, I currently have a EK SE240 up top and EK SE360 up front. My [email protected] +MOSFETs +1080ti temps under load are CPU:55c-58c and GPU:52-55c. Im assuming jumping to a 3900x or 9900KS will increase heat, so im thinking about adding a 360 rad up top. 

my question is, in the pic I've attached in this post, I see most pics for the 360rad up top the ports always face the back with the tube run directly below it feeding the rad in front. Is there no way to make both rads have there ports at the front for a cleaner build ?


----------



## Shenhua

Northman said:


> My plan for the Meshify C is.
> 
> Remove foam filter in front..rely on mesh to stop most dust.
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua Fans
> 
> 3 x A12x25 Intake
> 
> 1 x A12x25 Rear Exhaust
> 
> 1 x A12x25 Roof Exhaust
> 
> D15s CPU cooler
> 
> 
> 
> (3xA12x25 in front have shown to cool better, with 2-4 dB less noise then 2x Noctua A14 in front on this particular case.)
> 
> 
> 
> Cut up the PSU shroud for better air flow, remove all PCI slots, cut out grills in front of Exhaust fans for maximum airflow.


Placing so many fans and doing all those mods, are only gonna be worth it, only if u run fans fast, at very least 800 RPM. Otherwise you're just destroying the case.

I do agree that the top of the PSU shroud must be removed, the PSU shroud cleaned of cables, and the HDD cage removed. It has a big impact in GPU temps.

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Northman

Shenhua said:


> Placing so many fans and doing all those mods, are only gonna be worth it, only if u run fans fast, at very least 800 RPM.


I can run the A12x25 at almost 1200rpm and get 33dB or close to ambient noise in our room. 60% of fan capacity.
At 1200RPM its producing 1.5 mmH20 Static pressure and pushing 30-35ish m3/h

Just extrapolating from a few graphs I have seen on tests on these fans.. in test setup.

Gives a rough estimate.. and only conjecture at my part. 
I will get very different results.


----------



## Shenhua

Northman said:


> I can run the A12x25 at almost 1200rpm and get 33dB or close to ambient noise in our room. 60% of fan capacity.
> 
> At 1200RPM its producing 1.5 mmH20 Static pressure and pushing 30-35ish m3/h
> 
> 
> 
> Just extrapolating from a few graphs I have seen on tests on these fans.. in test setup.
> 
> 
> 
> Gives a rough estimate.. and only conjecture at my part.
> 
> I will get very different results.


You gonna have 5 fans, a GPU, other noise sources. At 1200rpm you gonna produce well above 33. While 33 it's not loud, it's very audible.

Also, if 1200 is your top RPM, you should consider sw3. At that RPM they're very, very close in stats and they gonna cost you 65% of the noctuas. The noctuas start to show performance gap over other premium 120mms at over 1200-1300rpm. And if you're running them as case fans, they're not gonna move a lot more air than other premium fans. That's because while static pressure increase very "parallel" with the RPM, the airflow does not.

I have the case and I'm running 2x140mm+120mm sw3 in the front. That's pretty much as good as it gets, with the current hardware and despite the nf a12x25 being much better than any other fan.


----------



## Blackops_2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5YNGDJ/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

Anyone know if this vertical GPU cable mount will work for the Define S2?


----------



## Fractal Design

Finally back from vacation, though I've no idea how I missed your reply since I wasn't even gone yet.



The Pook said:


> awesome, didn't know the I/O was removable on the Define S2, thought it was fixed to the case.
> 
> but I was going by this on Fractal's Twitter for the Define Mini C <-> Meshify C Mini interchangeability, and they said no?
> 
> https://twitter.com/fractaldesignna/status/969296169951260672?lang=en


They're technically not wrong if you're talking about JUST the front panel itself, but it would have been worth a 2nd tweet to explain that you can still make the swap if you change both the panel and the I/O together. You just need two parts to make it work since you can't fit the Define C's ports in the Meshify C panel or vice versa.



The Pook said:


> Just a small pair of needle noise, the metal tabs broke. One broke bending out and a second broke after taking the filter out and bending them back closed. Not really a big deal since there's ~10 tabs but I'd still rather have 0 broke


We've peeled these panels apart in exactly the same way, multiple times on dozens of occasions, and I've never seen any tabs come off without using cutters. On the one hand it'd probably be kind of a stretch to call it a warranty issue, but on the other hand that really sucks and it shouldn't have broken like that. Might still be worth opening a case with our support team to see what they can do. They'd know firsthand how tough those filters should be because they're the ones who do most of the aforementioned bending and cutting to test these things out.


----------



## Fractal Design

Blackops_2 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5YNGDJ/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
> 
> Anyone know if this vertical GPU cable mount will work for the Define S2?


The PCB and screw holes on the riser card face the wrong direction, so aside from the bracket there'd unfortunately be no way to screw it in. A big shipment of Flex VRC-25 vertical risers just arrived in the US today though, so if you've been looking for the official part I'm told it should finally be in stock at retailers again by this weekend, maybe as soon as tomorrow.


----------



## Blackops_2

Fractal Design said:


> The PCB and screw holes on the riser card face the wrong direction, so aside from the bracket there'd unfortunately be no way to screw it in. A big shipment of Flex VRC-25 vertical risers just arrived in the US today though, so if you've been looking for the official part I'm told it should finally be in stock at retailers again by this weekend, maybe as soon as tomorrow.


Dang it lol i need to send that back. It's unopened so wont be an issue. But i for some reason thought it would work.


----------



## Qu1ckset

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ppcs-r6-s2-distribution-plate.html#Details

Anyone use this yet in the Define R6/S2?


----------



## gilljoy

I've just ordered a meshify c.

Has anyone mounted an Corsair h115i in it with a Crosshair vii x470? Mounting on the front / top?

I haven't ordered my cooler yet so I may end up just going for a noctua Air cooler but I like how the AIO look.


----------



## Shenhua

gilljoy said:


> I've just ordered a meshify c.
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone mounted an Corsair h115i in it with a Crosshair vii x470? Mounting on the front / top?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't ordered my cooler yet so I may end up just going for a noctua Air cooler but I like how the AIO look.


Best pair for a Meshify C is Thermalright LGMRT.
GL with the AIO.
Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## looks

hi guys, i'm using a Fractal Design Define R4, and i plan on upgrading my graphics card to a ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX2060S-O8G-GAMING, unfortunately this case only allows for a 295mm card if the top HDD cage is installed, and the ASUS card is 301mm in length, any ideas where i should put the 4th HDD, buy a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter and put it at top in the drive bay, but the front fans won't cover that area, will it matter? or just put it on top of the bottom cage, if so, how to secure it, thanks.


----------



## The Pook

looks said:


> hi guys, i'm using a Fractal Design Define R4, and i plan on upgrading my graphics card to a ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX2060S-O8G-GAMING, unfortunately this case only allows for a 295mm card if the top HDD cage is installed, and the ASUS card is 301mm in length, any ideas where i should put the 4th HDD, buy a 5.25 to 3.5 adapter and put it at top in the drive bay, but the front fans won't cover that area, will it matter? or just put it on top of the bottom cage, if so, how to secure it, thanks.



The last drives I owned that needed direct airflow over it was a 750GB WD Black and my 36GB 10K RPM Raptors. Both of my HDDs (X300 7200RPM and EZRZ 5400RPM) in my S2 don't have any direct airflow over them and never break 40c. 

I'd just put it in your 5.25 bay if you're not using it.


----------



## looks

The Pook said:


> The last drives I owned that needed direct airflow over it was a 750GB WD Black and my 36GB 10K RPM Raptors. Both of my HDDs (X300 7200RPM and EZRZ 5400RPM) in my S2 don't have any direct airflow over them and never break 40c.
> 
> I'd just put it in your 5.25 bay if you're not using it.


thanks, i'll go buy the adapter.


----------



## 98uk

Hello,

I have ordered a Meshify C to replace my 800d. Whilst it's done me well over the years, it's just not great for air cooling having only 1 intake by default.

I have avaialble 2 x 140mm, 2 x 120mm Corsair fans and then whatever comes with the case. My plan was as follows:

Front: 2 x 140mm intake
Roof: 2 x 120mm exhaust
Rear: 1 x 120mm exhaust

My question is, do the two exhausting roof fans not pull air away from the CPU cooler? Surely the air enters from the front and just gets sucked up and out of the roof before it gets a chance to go through the CPU cooler and out the back? I am using a Be Quiet tower cooler.


----------



## elzhi

98uk said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have ordered a Meshify C to replace my 800d. Whilst it's done me well over the years, it's just not great for air cooling having only 1 intake by default.
> 
> I have avaialble 2 x 140mm, 2 x 120mm Corsair fans and then whatever comes with the case. My plan was as follows:
> 
> Front: 2 x 140mm intake
> Roof: 2 x 120mm exhaust
> Rear: 1 x 120mm exhaust
> 
> My question is, do the two exhausting roof fans not pull air away from the CPU cooler? Surely the air enters from the front and just gets sucked up and out of the roof before it gets a chance to go through the CPU cooler and out the back? I am using a Be Quiet tower cooler.


in my experience you don't need too many fans in this case, i'm using 3 (2x120mm intakes, 120m rear exhaust) and what i found is whether the top exhaust is open or blocked off it makes absolutely no difference in CPU temps, i'm not sure if its worth adding a fan in there unless you're using an AIO cooler.


----------



## 98uk

elzhi said:


> in my experience you don't need too many fans in this case, i'm using 3 (2x120mm intakes, 120m rear exhaust) and what i found is whether the top exhaust is open or blocked off it makes absolutely no difference in CPU temps, i'm not sure if its worth adding a fan in there unless you're using an AIO cooler.


I think I may just run a single roof exhaust fan at the rear. It should help draw air from the top VRMs, but reduce turbulence of air reaching the CPU cooler tower.


----------



## 331149

So I bought a case without room for a dvd burner. Now I miss my dvd burner. Odd.


----------



## Gruff

With the hot summer temperatures I was noticing my GPU was hitting some high temperatures in my Meshify C. I realized that barely any air was making it through the front foam with 2 Noctua NF-A14 fans as intake. 

I decided to take the foam out of the front panel and see how it goes in terms of dust. The temperatures are much better now. I also wasn't using the top filter so I trimmed that down and placed it over the two front fans just for a little bit of dust protection.


----------



## 331149

Gruff said:


> With the hot summer temperatures I was noticing my GPU was hitting some high temperatures in my Meshify C. I realized that barely any air was making it through the front foam with 2 Noctua NF-A14 fans as intake.
> 
> I decided to take the foam out of the front panel and see how it goes in terms of dust. The temperatures are much better now. I also wasn't using the top filter so I trimmed that down and placed it over the two front fans just for a little bit of dust protection.


That is super weird because I have the regular C, which apparently has worse temps than the meshify one, and no temp issues at all. Even in blazing summer heat, cpu, mobo and graphics card are low temps. I haven't even noticed a change in fan rpm. I have 2 140mm NF-14 at the front as well.


----------



## Gruff

The Define C has the mesh filter like the Define S. The Meshify C has a piece of thick foam as a filter which doesn't really allow for good airflow


----------



## Shenhua

Gruff said:


> The Meshify C has a piece of thick foam as a filter which doesn't really allow for good airflow


You can't be serious with that statement!?....

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## AlphaC

Gruff said:


> The Define C has the mesh filter like the Define S. The Meshify C has a piece of thick foam as a filter which doesn't really allow for good airflow


I doubt it.


https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3061-fractal-meshify-c-review-vs-define-c


https://pcper.com/2018/04/fractal-design-meshify-c-tempered-glass-case-review/3/


----------



## Blackops_2

The horizontal Pump/Res mount. That wouldn't be difficult would it? I'm thinking that's the route i'm going to go. Been back and forth on cases but keep coming back to the meshify C. 120x5 with a 3700x and 5700XT plus dark tempered glass plus RGB lighting on fans/blocks/memory should look extremely good. Will definitely take some more skill on my part for bends this time around, but i love that build.


----------



## 98uk

Hello,

Quick question relating to above discussion regarding airflow. I currently have 2 x Corsair Air Series AF140-LED 140mm Quiet Edition High Airflow as front panel intakes. Just wondering if these are okay to keep running, or if there are alternatives which move more air without increasing noise much more. I don't want a loud system, but at the same it's very quiet at the moment and could be a bit more noisy if needs be. 

I finally completed my transition from 800d to Meshify C. Obiviously not the neatest, but it works:


----------



## Blackops_2

Think i can mount a horizontal res with a vertical GPU mount like this guy has done? I don't see why i couldn't. It would be crammed but 120x5 with a vertical GPU mount and say 150mm res with the D5 or DDC in the bottom. Would be a hell of a build.
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Dt29TW


----------



## 331149

98uk said:


> Hello,
> 
> Quick question relating to above discussion regarding airflow. I currently have 2 x Corsair Air Series AF140-LED 140mm Quiet Edition High Airflow as front panel intakes. Just wondering if these are okay to keep running, or if there are alternatives which move more air without increasing noise much more. I don't want a loud system, but at the same it's very quiet at the moment and could be a bit more noisy if needs be.


I've always stuck with high pressure fans for intake because they have to suck air in from the outside though dust filters, various drives etc. Airflow fans move a lot of air if they are unrestricted (such as an exhaust) but for intake fans I'd never use them. Grab yourself some Silent Wings 3 or Noctua NF-A14's. Much more quiet, moves much more air through tight spaces.


----------



## 98uk

TheBDK said:


> I've always stuck with high pressure fans for intake because they have to suck air in from the outside though dust filters, various drives etc. Airflow fans move a lot of air if they are unrestricted (such as an exhaust) but for intake fans I'd never use them. Grab yourself some Silent Wings 3 or Noctua NF-A14's. Much more quiet, moves much more air through tight spaces.


Any recommendation on specific models. Seem to be plenty of choices within that same model, I guess quietest/slowest to loudest/noisiest:

Silent Wings 3: BL040, BL047, BL065, BL067, BL069, BL071
Noctua NF-A14: NF-A14, NF-A14 iPPC-2000, NF-A14 Chromax

Looking for something that moves a bit more air, but without being too loud.


----------



## The Pook

98uk said:


> Any recommendation on specific models. Seem to be plenty of choices within that same model, I guess quietest/slowest to loudest/noisiest:
> 
> Silent Wings 3: BL040, BL047, BL065, BL067, BL069, BL071
> Noctua NF-A14: NF-A14, NF-A14 iPPC-2000, NF-A14 Chromax
> 
> Looking for something that moves a bit more air, but without being too loud.



They make iPPC-3000s too  

Go for the iPPC 2000/3000 or the Silent Wings 3.

Phanteks PH-F140 MP are worth a look too.


----------



## 98uk

The Pook said:


> They make iPPC-3000s too
> 
> Go for the iPPC 2000/3000 or the Silent Wings 3.
> 
> Phanteks PH-F140 MP are worth a look too.


Cheers, will probably go Silent Wings 3 BL071. Fastest of that range at 1600rpm, but slower/quieter than the iPPC 2000 Noctua AF-14. Should be a good "in between"... and cheaper.


----------



## voidpointer

I would like to add some extra fans at the bottom of my define r5. I can't place them inside since the space is covered by hdd cage. I was thinking about getting larger feet, so the case gets elevated and i am able to place one or two fans outside. Are the feet somewhat standardized or do i have to look for a makeshift solution?


----------



## 331149

voidpointer said:


> I would like to add some extra fans at the bottom of my define r5. I can't place them inside since the space is covered by hdd cage. I was thinking about getting larger feet, so the case gets elevated and i am able to place one or two fans outside. Are the feet somewhat standardized or do i have to look for a makeshift solution?


Isn't it possible to remove the bottom drive cage and place a fan there?


----------



## voidpointer

TheBDK said:


> Isn't it possible to remove the bottom drive cage and place a fan there?


yea, but i need it. My R5 is maxxed out and i don't have any space left. 3 HDDs, 2 SSDs in the back, 420 top rad, 280 front rad.
My current setup has negative pressure (2x140 in, 3x140 out) and i would like to add 2x140 in the bottom and another 140 in the rear to get rid of dust and for better airflow.

I found this post (https://www.overclockers.com/forums...ally-found-the-perfect-feet-for-my-fractal-R5), but i need them a little bit taller.


----------



## Fractal Design

voidpointer said:


> yea, but i need it. My R5 is maxxed out and i don't have any space left. 3 HDDs, 2 SSDs in the back, 420 top rad, 280 front rad.
> My current setup has negative pressure (2x140 in, 3x140 out) and i would like to add 2x140 in the bottom and another 140 in the rear to get rid of dust and for better airflow.
> 
> I found this post (https://www.overclockers.com/forums...ally-found-the-perfect-feet-for-my-fractal-R5), but i need them a little bit taller.


I have seen R5 owners mod their HDD cages to add fans on the interior side for a quasi-push-pull setup. Not sure how much airflow one would gain with all drive bays populated, but it's another possible solution. Or if you happen to have the solid panel version then there's also the side panel fan mount. Only other sure-fire way I can think to increase airflow if everything else is maxed out would be to start swapping in higher pressure and/or higher speed fans.


----------



## HalongPort

Is it worth it to switch from the old Define S to Meshify C or Meshify S2 for better thermals?

What I don't like about the old S:
- restrictive front panel and dust filter
- no additional venting holes beside the PCIe brackets
- bottom dust filter only removable from the back
- the sound dumpening increases heat inside the case
- low feet

What I don't like about Meshify C and S2:
- the same restrictive dust filter?
- the same low feet?
- non removable PSU shroud resulting in a useless lower front intake fan and no way for a bottom intake fan for the GPU
- only 2 x 140 mm intake fan options for the Meshify C

Reviews suggest, that the Meshify C outperforms the S2 with two 140 mm fans as intake.


----------



## The Pook

HalongPort said:


> Is it worth it to switch from the old Define S to Meshify C or Meshify S2 for better thermals?
> 
> What I don't like about the old S:
> - restrictive front panel and dust filter
> - no additional venting holes beside the PCIe brackets
> - bottom dust filter only removable from the back
> - the sound dumpening increases heat inside the case
> - low feet
> 
> What I don't like about Meshify C and S2:
> - the same restrictive dust filter?
> - the same low feet?
> - non removable PSU shroud resulting in a useless lower front intake fan and no way for a bottom intake fan for the GPU
> - only 2 x 140 mm intake fan options for the Meshify C
> 
> Reviews suggest, that the Meshify C outperforms the S2 with two 140 mm fans as intake.



The front and top dust filters are removable if you want them out. I took out my top since I'm using them for exhaust but left my front filter in. 

Meshify C is smaller so the front fans likely are more effective since they're closer to components. My Meshify S2 still got huge CPU/GPU temp drops over my old terrible P400S though. 

IMO: if you don't plan on ever running a WC loop (or even a 360 AIO), go with the Meshify C. If you think you might, go with the Meshify S2.


----------



## voidpointer

Can i please get a statement about fitting a Hardware Labs GTX/GTS 280 (153mm width) in the front of a S2 / Mesify S2.
The manual says the max. width of a 280 radiator is 147mm, however some have been able to place a HWL 280 GTS, while others had to modify the case (reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/9ntprl/has_anyone_here_tried_to_fit_a_hardware_labs/)


----------



## The Pook

voidpointer said:


> Can i please get a statement about fitting a Hardware Labs GTX/GTS 280 (153mm width) in the front of a S2 / Mesify S2.
> The manual says the max. width of a 280 radiator is 147mm, however some have been able to place a HWL 280 GTS, while others had to modify the case (reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/9ntprl/has_anyone_here_tried_to_fit_a_hardware_labs/)





the Meshify S2 is huge, of course it'll fit. I run my radiator up front and from the edge of my 1080 Ti to the fans on my radiator is ~153mm.


----------



## jonny27

The Pook said:


> the Meshify S2 is huge, of course it'll fit. I run my radiator up front and from the edge of my 1080 Ti to the fans on my radiator is ~153mm.


That's depth, voidpointer said width. The gts is a particularly wide rad, 153mm is almost 1cm more than most 140/280mm rads out there.


----------



## voidpointer

The confusing part is that the 147mm width limitation was removed in the R6 manual, but the S2 manual has not been changed. So, if the S2 has not been changed and the 147mm limiation is still valid, how do i order an updated R6 (if the case has actually been modified)? Is there a batch- or revisionnumber?

And what's the actual reason for the limitation? Can i fix it by cutting the psu shroud?


----------



## jonny27

voidpointer said:


> The confusing part is that the 147mm width limitation was removed in the R6 manual, but the S2 manual has not been changed. So, if the S2 has not been changed and the 147mm limiation is still valid, how do i order an updated R6 (if the case has actually been modified)? Is there a batch- or revisionnumber?
> 
> And what's the actual reason for the limitation? Can i fix it by cutting the psu shroud?


It was removed? Maybe it's a later revision on the manual, I believe the manual on my R6 still points the 147mm limit.
I think the limit is due to the psu shroud, IIRC it's riveted in, so drilling the rivets out should do the trick. Be aware though that I have no clue in how much the shroud is part of the structural integrity.


----------



## Fractal Design

jonny27 said:


> It was removed? Maybe it's a later revision on the manual, I believe the manual on my R6 still points the 147mm limit.
> I think the limit is due to the psu shroud, IIRC it's riveted in, so drilling the rivets out should do the trick. Be aware though that I have no clue in how much the shroud is part of the structural integrity.


The modular plate (the tall part that the drive trays screw into) is the limiting factor here. You'd think the max width would be higher in open layout, but because the plate curves in slightly it actually ends up being a tad closer to the front rad when it's on that side of the case. 

That said, while the drive plate in the S2 isn't movable like in the R6, you could still remove it entirely (assuming you don't need the 3.5" bays) to gain another centimeter or so of headroom on the radiator width.


----------



## thedosbox

AlphaC said:


> I doubt it.
> 
> 
> https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3061-fractal-meshify-c-review-vs-define-c
> 
> 
> https://pcper.com/2018/04/fractal-design-meshify-c-tempered-glass-case-review/3/


FWIW, I removed the front foam from my Meshify C yesterday. While max GPU temperatures did not change, the GPU fans don't need to spin as fast. They were previously running ~2600 RPM with spikes to 3000 RPM. They now run around 1800 RPM and spike @ 2600 RPM. I'll have to see if that pattern continues over a longer period of course.

Having said that, I am a little concerned about dust, and am thinking of getting one of these to replace it:

https://www.amazon.ca/DEMCiflex-Filter-Fractal-Design-Meshify/dp/B07RVJM3ML/

Has anyone got one of their filters? I'm curious as to how fine the mesh is. The theory being that it'll be less restrictive than the foam, while still doing a better job of filtering dust than the metal grill.


----------



## dwolvin

I've used deciflex before, it's a fridge magnet gasket and decently tight filtering, but much less than foam. The best part is that they wipe clean very easily with a microfiber.


----------



## 331149

Demciflex is AWESOME! Their filters catch all but the tiniest speks.


----------



## cellarnoise

Sorry if this has been addressed before...

I have been a quiet fan (haha) of Fractal cases for many years... The mostly silent part is most important to me.

I have several generations of older desktop cases (in quiet boxes...) and currently have as primary desktop cases an r5 and an s2 in my work office space ( 3 feet away) currently. I would like to make these cases even quieter and with higher airflow at the rear of the case if possible. I am about to cut out the honnycomb at the rear of the R5 case that has a 140mm grill with a stock 140mm fan and replaced with a circle fan grill like in the old days? I bought 4 140 circle fan grills recently and am about to cut out the R5 rear top fan grill area and replace with these... any one else with experience? I am just now looking up low flow CFM airflow meters. I might do a before after, if it has not been done before.

example of a circular wire fan grill..
https://www.coolerguys.com/products...pDPhzlq3vfc5FWbpZGUTnhWyjxuCLRFhoCmIIQAvD_BwE


My main goal is a desktop case. Maybe no rear fan at all will be best? The rear fan is where at under 4.5 feet I hear the most fan noise. I run silent power supplies in everything. The thing I think I hear the most is the rear fans...

I primarily do audio full cycle production with some video editing / rendering (The 1950x throws off heat and noise in the s2). I have in my two closest cases to my listening positions a amd 1700x with a 140 mm noctua cooler and 1 rear stock r5 fan with 2 front stock r5 fans and a 6 month old amd 1950x with a 140mm noctua cooler with 2 front stock fractal case 140mm fans and a single rear stock fractal 140 mm fan.

From what I have read on the webs the old school case fan grills are the quietest and best flowing....

Hope the following link does not break any rules:
https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/

Any suggestions, before I rebuild my desks with hush boxes below and longer cables that I have had trouble with in the past generation? Both audio and visual?

Thanks


----------



## Mac20nine

I'd be careful of metal shavings when you cut out anything. Maybe tilt the case while you cut, if you can. Electrical shorts are a b*tch. Interesting.

I just read about Demciflex today. Planning out a Ryzen build. Wondering if anyone here could tell me if I can fit 2 140mm fans on the front of a Focus G mini, or a Focus G. Other sites just retort with official specs. I'm not that bloody lazy. I can read.

When I read specs on a case and it states 2 120mm / 140mm etc. I take it they mean "or 1 140mm" but if the front of the case is long enough for two then maybe I could mod some holes and get two to fit. As long as the front panel fits over the frames of the fans.

Any insight from FD folks would really be helpful.


Thanks,

Mac


----------



## Shenhua

cellarnoise said:


> Sorry if this has been addressed before...
> 
> 
> 
> I have been a quiet fan (haha) of Fractal cases for many years... The mostly silent part is most important to me.
> 
> 
> 
> I have several generations of older desktop cases (in quiet boxes...) and currently have as primary desktop cases an r5 and an s2 in my work office space ( 3 feet away) currently. I would like to make these cases even quieter and with higher airflow at the rear of the case if possible. I am about to cut out the honnycomb at the rear of the R5 case that has a 140mm grill with a stock 140mm fan and replaced with a circle fan grill like in the old days? I bought 4 140 circle fan grills recently and am about to cut out the R5 rear top fan grill area and replace with these... any one else with experience? I am just now looking up low flow CFM airflow meters. I might do a before after, if it has not been done before.
> 
> 
> 
> example of a circular wire fan grill..
> 
> https://www.coolerguys.com/products...pDPhzlq3vfc5FWbpZGUTnhWyjxuCLRFhoCmIIQAvD_BwE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My main goal is a desktop case. Maybe no rear fan at all will be best? The rear fan is where at under 4.5 feet I hear the most fan noise. I run silent power supplies in everything. The thing I think I hear the most is the rear fans...
> 
> 
> 
> I primarily do audio full cycle production with some video editing / rendering (The 1950x throws off heat and noise in the s2). I have in my two closest cases to my listening positions a amd 1700x with a 140 mm noctua cooler and 1 rear stock r5 fan with 2 front stock r5 fans and a 6 month old amd 1950x with a 140mm noctua cooler with 2 front stock fractal case 140mm fans and a single rear stock fractal 140 mm fan.
> 
> 
> 
> From what I have read on the webs the old school case fan grills are the quietest and best flowing....
> 
> 
> 
> Hope the following link does not break any rules:
> 
> https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions, before I rebuild my desks with hush boxes below and longer cables that I have had trouble with in the past generation? Both audio and visual?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I don't work with sound, and my PC is very different of yours, and maybe even my conditions, but the goal is the the same.

Before that, ill share some interesting details i recently found. 140mm fans are usually 150rpm louder than a 120mm. (700 rpm 140mm is about as loud as 850rpm 120mm).....ofc this difference will vary from fan to fan and from speed to speed. Now i know 140mm is 33% bigger, but airflow doesn't quite scale that much when you add so many factors like a fan in a case. Then again, it depends from setup to setup, by no means I'm saying 120mm is gonna be better than 140mm.
Also a fan pushing or sucking air through a "bottleneck", will be much louder. 2x120mm fans at 1000rpm on the GPU, produce less noise than 2x140+1x120mm at 750rpm as front intakes in a Meshify C, and to scale this up for better understanding, the said case with fans, produce 2 times less noise than a define S with 3x140mm front intakes, both at 1000rpm. A mesh case at same rpm produces lower noise, than a silent case. Let that sink in for a moment.... Now, if we both crack on the RPM to the max, 1600rpm, the mesh case will be as loud if not louder than the silent case. My theory is that it happens because at that speed the front intake fans start to form negative pressure in front of them and the mesh starts to act like a bottleneck, which in the define S happens at much lower RPM. Since the case is mesh, it let's sound escape easier.

By the way, the 120mm GPU fan mod brought a 10°C drop, and from 3 to 4 times less noise. It's a 1080 strix running at 66°C in heaven uninigine. I have enough headroom to place the fans at 800rpm and make it completely inaudible.

Since i have a near complete inaudible build under gaming load (and that with a 212 evo, a meshify C+front intakes and a 120mm gpu fan mod, i think I'm fit to talk about silencing a setup.
Start eliminating sound noise from the roots. Don't try to mitigate it. You need to remove the 5.25 CD/DVD writer , all HDDs. Clear the case of cables, and mount the SSDs on the walls (bottom and on the back of the mobo or at its side). Get a case (or mod yours) to have as little resistance as possible for the fans. If you have enough intake, you can discard completely the exhausts. Say for example a Meshify C with 3x120mm. You dont need exhausting the air, it just goes out by itself.
You need to find a massive cooler with high heatpipe count and low fin count, and run it with 1 high quality fan. Usually Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT it's a very good example of that. Sadly it doesn't support TR, and for ryzen the macho series have highly convex coldplates, however there is aro m14 (macho rev.b with flat base) In a situation like this, the cooler fan would work at the same RPM or lower than the case fans, since running it at higher RPM, doesn't really bring much benefit, because the heatsink is no longer dependent only on its fan, and since it's a low fin count cooler it isn't very dependent on static pressure.


----------



## Luby521

Hi guys, I'm considering getting the Meshify C for my build. Coming from Caselab M8, I want to downsize to something smaller. 
Because my graphic card will be the red devil 5700 xt, its quite long. I wonder if I can cut the plastic mesh that hold the foam to mount the fans in the front of the chassis, possibly remove the foam as well. Will it make the case dustier? I've seen lots of cases only use the front metal mesh as dust filter.


----------



## Sharangir

Actually succeeded in fitting a 240mm aio (Alphacool Eisbaer LT240) inside the Node 202! Without the need to drill, cut, file anything.

Feedback is appreciated

https://www.overclock.net/#/topics/1727158?page=2


----------



## kikimaru024

In the Fractal Define R6 manual, it specifies that for top-mounting a 280mm AIO it has to be 36mm max. 
(here)
I can't figure out if this is referring to radiator depth, or radiator+fan. 
Can someone clarify? 

I'm also unsure whether to go for NZXT Kraken X62 or Corsair H115i RGB Platinum.


----------



## The Pook

kikimaru024 said:


> In the Fractal Define R6 manual, it specifies that for top-mounting a 280mm AIO it has to be 36mm max.
> (here)
> I can't figure out if this is referring to radiator depth, or radiator+fan.
> Can someone clarify?
> 
> I'm also unsure whether to go for NZXT Kraken X62 or Corsair H115i RGB Platinum.



If it's like the S2 then it's for fans + radiator. I couldn't use my Trident Z with my H115i up top, I had to move it to the front.


----------



## thedosbox

Luby521 said:


> Hi guys, I'm considering getting the Meshify C for my build. Coming from Caselab M8, I want to downsize to something smaller.
> Because my graphic card will be the red devil 5700 xt, its quite long. I wonder if I can cut the plastic mesh that hold the foam to mount the fans in the front of the chassis, possibly remove the foam as well. Will it make the case dustier? I've seen lots of cases only use the front metal mesh as dust filter.


The foam is held against the metal grill with some plastic struts, and can be removed by hand. However, removing the foam won't give you any additional room unless you remove the struts also. Even then, you'll only get a few mm additional room.


----------



## hugomst

Has anyone installed a SSI EEB motherboard on a R6 or Meshify S2? I know it doesn´t officially support past E-ATX size but I really love the case design and was wondering if I could install my Asus C621E Sage there with some small modifications


----------



## Iconoclast

Just wanted to share my Define R6 with my new Fractal Design Prisma AL-14 PWM RGB fans installed. Replaced a set of Corsair HD140 RGBs that I foolishly chose when I first pieced this build together. The ARGB is well done and the fans are quieter than the Corsair's which is a nice bonus. I believe they put out more static pressure than the Corsairs, which had quite the pressure rating already.


----------



## man from atlantis

Everytime i came home and power up my pc i admire my case again


----------



## Abula

Iconoclast said:


> Just wanted to share my Define R6 with my new Fractal Design Prisma AL-14 PWM RGB fans installed. Replaced a set of Corsair HD140 RGBs that I foolishly chose when I first pieced this build together. The ARGB is well done and the fans are quieter than the Corsair's which is a nice bonus. I believe they put out more static pressure than the Corsairs, which had quite the pressure rating already.


 Any reason why the D15 fans are oriented toward the front?


----------



## khemist

My R6, To be changed to Nickel/Brass tubing shortly.


----------



## Iconoclast

Abula said:


> Any reason why the D15 fans are oriented toward the front?


Wow! Rookie mistake... thanks buddy! :\


----------



## Iconoclast

Abula said:


> Any reason why the D15 fans are oriented toward the front?


All fixed now...


----------



## Fractal Design

kikimaru024 said:


> In the Fractal Define R6 manual, it specifies that for top-mounting a 280mm AIO it has to be 36mm max.
> (here)
> I can't figure out if this is referring to radiator depth, or radiator+fan.
> Can someone clarify?
> 
> I'm also unsure whether to go for NZXT Kraken X62 or Corsair H115i RGB Platinum.


36mm is the max motherboard component height, which generally means ram height. 280mm top rads mount closer to the board, so tall ram tends to get in the way.


----------



## kmetek

which is better

R6 / S2 or Meshify S2?


----------



## AlphaC

kmetek said:


> which is better
> 
> R6 / S2 or Meshify S2?



Meshify S2 has better airflow due to the front panel.


The R6 USB -C version has 2 extra USB 2.0 ports and the option for drive cages (also a single 5.25" bay).


----------



## kmetek

I'll be using 1-2 SSD's and 1-2 HDD's nothing more, won't be using bluray burner at all....no use of it.

https://www.alternate.de/Fractal-Design/Meshify-S2-Black-Dark-TG-Tower-Gehäuse/html/product/1484322?

so hard to decide

BE QUIET 801
PHANTEKS P600S
FD R6/S2 series

HELP


----------



## Owterspace

Just a few snaps of my rig after some troubles, and a full clean and rebuild..


----------



## 414347

Hey guys,

I always thought FD cases were somewhat nice I like the clean look but most of all the amount of HDD's that can be mounted. This build will be purely for data storage so I want to fill the case with as many HDDs as possible.

Atm. I have about 80TB of storage in Caselabs S8S, the case have active cooling for each 4x4 HDDs so as far is temps, Its all good but I would like case where I can fit at least 12 HDDs at the same time for the case integrity to remain.

I was watching a video and I wish I recall it where, but person had I think R6 and because the way HDD trays were mounted some of the HDDs were sagging and touching each other I would hate to have that happen to me.

I think this is the thread about HDDs sagging: https://www.ixsystems.com/community/threads/build-report-fractal-design-define-r6.74641/ and Its under Criticism to amke easier for you to find. 



Can anyone recommend a solid FD case that wouldn't have that issue, Is R5 any better.

Thanks

I think it was R6 where the HDD trays are held only in 1 of the corners. I really like the amount of drives this case can hold but I can see already potential issue


----------



## 414347

Wow! No response, alright no big deal.

Good day


----------



## mong00se

Folks, will a AIO cooler fit in the front of the R6 with the HDD cages? 


I'm looking at the Fractal R6 define. I like the look, and that it has the sound dampening material, plus I can cram a number of HDDs in there for all of my media. 

Setup: 
Ryzen 3800x
EVGA 1080 ti
Asus X570 mobo
32gb Trident z royal ram
850w EVGA PSU
970 Evo plus NVMe boot
Various other HDD/SSDs for media and games

I’m leaning towards getting an AIO cooler to put in there. However, I’m looking at the design and if I put the radiator on the top, I’d have to take off the top cover which seems to dampen a lot of the sound. I am targeting a quiet build where possible. 

I’d like to, therefore, mount an AIO radiator in the front. Does anyone know if I could still fit drives in there in the front section along with either a 240/280/360 radiator? Thinking one of the corsair pro or kraken AIO coolers. 

Do you people know if such a thing is possible? I can’t find examples of builds that went this direction, most people just put the AIO on the top.


----------



## Fractal Design

NewUser16 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I always thought FD cases were somewhat nice I like the clean look but most of all the amount of HDD's that can be mounted. This build will be purely for data storage so I want to fill the case with as many HDDs as possible.
> 
> Atm. I have about 80TB of storage in Caselabs S8S, the case have active cooling for each 4x4 HDDs so as far is temps, Its all good but I would like case where I can fit at least 12 HDDs at the same time for the case integrity to remain.
> 
> I was watching a video and I wish I recall it where, but person had I think R6 and because the way HDD trays were mounted some of the HDDs were sagging and touching each other I would hate to have that happen to me.
> 
> I think this is the thread about HDDs sagging: https://www.ixsystems.com/community/threads/build-report-fractal-design-define-r6.74641/ and Its under Criticism to amke easier for you to find.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone recommend a solid FD case that wouldn't have that issue, Is R5 any better.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> I think it was R6 where the HDD trays are held only in 1 of the corners. I really like the amount of drives this case can hold but I can see already potential issue


You'd have to use a couple adapters in the ODD bays, but the Define XL R2 could do 12 HDDs and it's got the traditional sliding drive trays with four corner support. The XL R2 has 8 x 3.5" bays, and you could use one standard 5.25" to 3.5" bracket and a 2 x 5.25" to 3 x 3.5" adapter to get four more in the ODD bays and still have one external bay left over for an optical drive or whatever else. The bottom fan and extra open space might make also it a bit easier to keep a RAID card cool if you're using one. Unfortunately though I can't think of any other cases in our catalog that can handle quite that many drives without resorting to more creative solutions. 10-11 is the max for pretty much anything else in our current catalog.


----------



## 414347

The XL R2 would do it but tbh. Its to big, at least for what my intend of use is, I like the R6 size, Its just right.
I don't know if you guys had some reports by customers of the issue I described, If yes, Is there a chance the R6 will have some changes done in that department.

Thank you


----------



## Ownedj00

Whats the best way to stick these magnets back onto the mesh? i thought glue however it will come thru the mesh and will be seen on the outside.


----------



## dwolvin

More magnets (seriously, mags on the front).


----------



## JackCY

Aren't those magnets sticky taped? Did you buy ones without adhesive? A spray on adhesive then, etc. Clear glue.


----------



## 414347

You can get a roll very thin 3M double sided clear tape that is ideal for this. Any glue might brake or crack upon accidental bend, tape will remain flexible


----------



## Ownedj00

NewUser16 said:


> You can get a roll very thin 3M double sided clear tape that is ideal for this. Any glue might brake or crack upon accidental bend, tape will remain flexible



Thanks ill try this today.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Has anyone managed to fit 2x 420 rads inside the R6 ?


----------



## Fractal Design

Ownedj00 said:


> Whats the best way to stick these magnets back onto the mesh? i thought glue however it will come thru the mesh and will be seen on the outside.


I'd say the best way is to let us send you a new one. They shouldn't come loose so easy like that so something must have gone wrong somewhere with that filter. Just get in touch with us at support.fractal-design.com and we'll help you out.


----------



## Fractal Design

NewUser16 said:


> The XL R2 would do it but tbh. Its to big, at least for what my intend of use is, I like the R6 size, Its just right.
> I don't know if you guys had some reports by customers of the issue I described, If yes, Is there a chance the R6 will have some changes done in that department.
> 
> Thank you


I know not everyone's been a fan of the three-point support system but I actually hadn't heard any reports of drives sagging before reading the thread linked above. I wouldn't expect to see any major changes in the R6 itself since it'd be pretty hard to even still call it the same case after such a fundamental update, but drive mounts are one of the things we spend the most time thinking about in the process of iteration so improvements will undoubtedly manifest in some way, shape, or form on future designs.


----------



## 414347

Fractal Design said:


> I know not everyone's been a fan of the three-point support system but I actually hadn't heard any reports of drives sagging before reading the thread linked above. I wouldn't expect to see any major changes in the R6 itself since it'd be pretty hard to even still call it the same case after such a fundamental update, but drive mounts are one of the things we spend the most time thinking about in the process of iteration so improvements will undoubtedly manifest in some way, shape, or form on future designs.


Thank you for responding


----------



## cole2109

System:
[email protected]
[email protected]
32gb Predator 3600MHz
Asus Z370-F Strix
Fractal Design R6
500gb 960 EVO nvme
500gb Kingston nvme
6TB HDD
Corsair 1000w

EKWB stuff
EK-Vardar EVO 120ER RGB
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM
EK-Velocity RGB Nickel + Plexi
EK-Vector 2080Ti RGB
EK-CoolStream XE 360
EK-Torque Angled 90˚ Black
EK-Torque STC 12/16 Black
EK-CryoFuel Solid Azure Blue


----------



## 414347

Fractal Design said:


> I know not everyone's been a fan of the three-point support system but I actually hadn't heard any reports of drives sagging before reading the thread linked above. I wouldn't expect to see any major changes in the R6 itself since it'd be pretty hard to even still call it the same case after such a fundamental update, but drive mounts are one of the things we spend the most time thinking about in the process of iteration so improvements will undoubtedly manifest in some way, shape, or form on future designs.


Well...I did some more search on the subject, specifically to see R6 with all HDD's trays occupied and they seem pretty straight so I'm not sure what have happen with the trays sagging in that one thread I pinned.

Anyhow, I'm strongly considering the R6, Its nice size and seem pretty good quality.

Thanks for your help 

Thanks again


----------



## Bratislav

i7 8086K & GTX 1070 FE


----------



## -X3-

Hello everyone, I'm strongly considering buying the Meshify C TG, and I wonder what case fan setup would be best. Reading through forum posts online, seems like dual 140mm fans in the front and a single 120mm as exhaust at the back might be the sweet spot, but I wonder what's the actual cooling performance boost you get vs two 120mm fans in the front. The case comes with a single front 120mm, and I can just add a 1600 rpm slip stream fan in addition to it and call it a day, but would that be decent enough for air intake?
If two 140mm fans are that much better, which ones should I buy? NF-A14s seem like a popular choice, but some say they might not be suitable to drive air through the case filters due to insufficient static pressure. 

Any thoughts?

Thanks.


----------



## Shenhua

-X3- said:


> Hello everyone, I'm strongly considering buying the Meshify C TG, and I wonder what case fan setup would be best. Reading through forum posts online, seems like dual 140mm fans in the front and a single 120mm as exhaust at the back might be the sweet spot, but I wonder what's the actual cooling performance boost you get vs two 120mm fans in the front. The case comes with a single front 120mm, and I can just add a 1600 rpm slip stream fan in addition to it and call it a day, but would that be decent enough for air intake?
> 
> If two 140mm fans are that much better, which ones should I buy? NF-A14s seem like a popular choice, but some say they might not be suitable to drive air through the case filters due to insufficient static pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Dont just sum up numbers. It's a mistake that even a ppl with knowledge in the matter does.

Best fan setup is 2x140mm+1x120mm in the front and an exhaust at the back.

Or 3x120mm in the front.

If you have very good temps, you can just skip the exhaust like this:









A very important thing to do, it's to open up and clear everything from the PSU cage. Remove the drive cage, mount the memory on the floor, and tuck the cables behind the motherboard. It will greatly benefit the GPU.


----------



## -X3-

Okay, thanks for the advice. 

What about the actual fans that would be installed, should I look specifically at high air pressure designed fans or even regular ones would be okay here as well (like the AF-14 I mentioned before, for instance)?

Thanks.


----------



## 331149

-X3- said:


> Okay, thanks for the advice.
> 
> What about the actual fans that would be installed, should I look specifically at high air pressure designed fans or even regular ones would be okay here as well (like the AF-14 I mentioned before, for instance)?
> 
> Thanks.


Always high pressure fans as intake (so they can suck air through dust filters and various obstacles) and high airflow fan(s) as exhaust. Oh and with the C, you will get a massive cooling performance increase by going 2x140mm intake. They will literally cover everything compared to 3x120mm. The 3rd 120mm is a lost cause if you ask me. It'll blow down the psu cover which is completely pointless.


----------



## Shenhua

-X3- said:


> Okay, thanks for the advice.
> 
> 
> 
> What about the actual fans that would be installed, should I look specifically at high air pressure designed fans or even regular ones would be okay here as well (like the AF-14 I mentioned before, for instance)?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


If you don't live in the Sahara like our friend above me, you don't need fans with high stats in static pressure to pull air through a frontal like the Meshify C.

Also, forcing air through vents with intake fans, instead of leaving the air itself refilling in front of the fans, will start create negative pressure in front of the fans, and noise escalate very fast, because now you have a second source of noise besides the fans. It's air cooling 101. That's why mesh cases are better for silence focused setups.

Hell!, nf a14 has enough static pressure for closed fronts like define C. But don't get nf a14, get sw3. They have very similar stats, but, the sound mark it's much more pleasing. If i were you i would go simple. 3x120mm sw3 in front of the case and 1 in the back (always keeping present what i told you about the PSU shroud).

And get a Thermalright air cooler, since they are the best. Especially when ran at low RPM. Aro m14 if AMD (am4), LGMRT if it's Intel.

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Darkbreeze

Shenhua said:


> Dont just sum up numbers. It's a mistake that even a ppl with knowledge in the matter does.
> 
> Best fan setup is 2x140mm+1x120mm in the front and an exhaust at the back.
> 
> Or 3x120mm in the front.
> 
> If you have very good temps, you can just skip the exhaust
> 
> A very important thing to do, it's to open up and clear everything from the PSU cage. Remove the drive cage, mount the memory on the floor, and tuck the cables behind the motherboard. It will greatly benefit the GPU.


That's a gross oversimplification AND is patently wrong in a variety of ways, as is your next answer after that. 

Honestly, I'm not sure how anybody could think this is good advice or take any of it seriously. Nearly everything you've advised is 180 degrees off from best practices.

The cooling configuration depends on a number of factors including the graphics card model, case model, what kind of CPU cooler and the model of CPU cooler as well as what specific fans are going to be used. Change one of those things, it changes everything.

PSU's don't have "cages". Drives have cages. Power supplies, maybe, have shrouds.

Memory doesn't get "mounted on the floor", it gets installed in the motherboard. You don't tuck cables behind the motherboard, you route them behind the motherboard tray. I'm sorry, hate to come off this way, honestly, but more than anything your comments show how little you actually understand about the whole business and maybe need to eat a little more experience and gain some additional knowledge before making recommendations that could affect somebody else's wallet.

Also, the BULK of cooling performance comes from the exhaust fans, so if you're only going to have ONE fan, you would want it to be the rear facing exhaust fan location. Having a good BALANCE of intake and exhaust is where you find "the sweet spot", while having a number of intake fans with few or no exhaust fans creates a high pressure situation that honestly doesn't offer much benefit other than dust suppression. Hundreds of hours of testing by a variety of reviewers bears this out. 

It really doesn't matter how much ambient air you get into the case if you're not getting a sufficient amount of the stack effect hot air out.


----------



## Darkbreeze

-X3- said:


> Hello everyone, I'm strongly considering buying the Meshify C TG, and I wonder what case fan setup would be best. Reading through forum posts online, seems like dual 140mm fans in the front and a single 120mm as exhaust at the back might be the sweet spot, but I wonder what's the actual cooling performance boost you get vs two 120mm fans in the front. The case comes with a single front 120mm, and I can just add a 1600 rpm slip stream fan in addition to it and call it a day, but would that be decent enough for air intake?
> If two 140mm fans are that much better, which ones should I buy? NF-A14s seem like a popular choice, but some say they might not be suitable to drive air through the case filters due to insufficient static pressure.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Thanks.


Here's my "thoughts" that have held true for hundreds of builds I've completed and thousands more I've assisted with on various forums.

This is my take on fan selection.

High static pressure fans are desirable for all intake fans, radiator fans or heatsink fans. All of those types of fans will usually encounter significant resistance to airflow, so having fans with higher static pressure is desirable in those applications. In general, a static pressure rating of 2.0mm H20 or higher is good enough for an intake, heatsink or radiator fan. Higher, obviously, is better in these applications.

Exhaust fans do not face much resistance, so using fans with high static pressure is not necessary in those locations, however, USING them will not hurt anything either. Technically, you generally want fans with the highest CFM and highest static pressure you can reasonably afford to purchase for intakes, heatsinks or radiators. Exhaust fans, the static pressure is not very important but high airflow (CFM) is generally desirable.

For most configurations 2 x120mm, 2 x140mm or some combination of the two for both intake and exhaust are sufficient. WHEN possible, using a 140mm fan is much preferred as you are able to move an equivalent amount of air as a 120mm fan at a lower RPM resulting in a lower overal noise level.

A purely negative pressure configuration offer the BEST cooling performance, IF you are also bringing in enough ambient air for the graphics card and CPU cooler (IF you are using an air cooler on the CPU, otherwise, much of the configuration design mentioned here might need to be mildly altered) by way of intake fans. 

Positive pressure configurations offer dust suppression. Neutral pressure, with an equal, or nearly equal amount of airflow coming in as what is going out, offers a good solution that meets both types halfway. This is the MOST recommended configuration. If you want the best cooling performance, then you might not only add another exhaust fan to that top rear position like I said, but make sure it is a high CFM model AND also maybe replace the current rear exhaust fan with a model that has a higher CFM rating as well.

In reality we like to see a NEUTRAL pressure arrangement, where there is roughly the same number of intake and exhaust fans with somewhat similar airflow characteristics aside from the fact that we want or prefer to see higher static pressure specs on intake fans.

BeQuiet fans are only good in regard to noise levels, and that is only because they tend to run their fans at a maximum RPM that is significantly lower than most other comparably sized fans. They are good for systems that don't need great cooling and silence is more important, although you can technically do that with any fan by adjusting the fan curve in the bios and capping it at a speed that is acceptable.

If performance is more important, I would stick to fans by Noctua (And yes, they have black models now so you are not stuck with Earth tone (baby poop) brown), Thermalright (Not to be confused with Thermaltake) or even possibly the EVGA FX 140 or 120m fans which move a lot of air but are a bit noisier than these others. Corsair Maglev fans are also fairly good.

The Noctua NF-A14's, NF-A14 chromax.black.swap, NF-A14 iPPC industrial, NF-A12x25 and NF-F12 PWM fans are all excellent and are never a poor choice for any build. The other Noctua fan models are all pretty good too, but be sure to look at and educate yourself about things like a specific fan models static pressure, overall CFM/m3/h and noise levels. Many fans that claim to be "quiet" are only quiet because they limit the maximum RPM to a level where they won't make much noise but it also drastically affects overall airflow and static pressure capabilities as well.

There are many fans out there which are more than sufficient for an average build without the need for an particularly high performance fan, but when you want a good fan you can't go wrong with the above recommendations.


----------



## Shenhua

Darkbreeze said:


> That's a gross oversimplification AND is patently wrong in a variety of ways, as is your next answer after that.
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, I'm not sure how anybody could think this is good advice or take any of it seriously. Nearly everything you've advised is 180 degrees off from best practices.
> 
> 
> 
> The cooling configuration depends on a number of factors including the graphics card model, case model, what kind of CPU cooler and the model of CPU cooler as well as what specific fans are going to be used. Change one of those things, it changes everything.
> 
> 
> 
> PSU's don't have "cages". Drives have cages. Power supplies, maybe, have shrouds.
> 
> 
> 
> Memory doesn't get "mounted on the floor", it gets installed in the motherboard. You don't tuck cables behind the motherboard, you route them behind the motherboard tray. I'm sorry, hate to come off this way, honestly, but more than anything your comments show how little you actually understand about the whole business and maybe need to eat a little more experience and gain some additional knowledge before making recommendations that could affect somebody else's wallet.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the BULK of cooling performance comes from the exhaust fans, so if you're only going to have ONE fan, you would want it to be the rear facing exhaust fan location. Having a good BALANCE of intake and exhaust is where you find "the sweet spot", while having a number of intake fans with few or no exhaust fans creates a high pressure situation that honestly doesn't offer much benefit other than dust suppression. Hundreds of hours of testing by a variety of reviewers bears this out.
> 
> 
> 
> It really doesn't matter how much ambient air you get into the case if you're not getting a sufficient amount of the stack effect hot air out.


Ok. Eng it's clearly not my first language (actually my forth). That being said, unless you are a complete moron, I'm pretty sure, you can figure out what i meant. 

With "PSU cage" i meant shroud, with memory i meant storage (since i was speaking about the drive cage), and with tucking i think i used the correct word, because you don't have re-route the cables through different channels, but tuck the excess you have, behind the back of the mobo, since they gonna impede airflow.

I do agree with what you said above, that changing a factor, completely screws the airflow, but then again these are guidelines for a mesh case, that doesn't like to much AIOs or custom loops to begin with (because almost nothing decent fits in), but fits most, if not all air coolers. So there isnt much to it.

Let me correct you on the last paragraph: "Also, the BULK of cooling performance comes from the exhaust fans..... in cases with poor intake". ....you know, those silence focused cases, that morons buy.

If you gonna build up enough positive pressure (can be done at not that high rpm, if the case have good or ideal front intake like in this case) and GPU is not "strangled by a ****ty PSU shroud, you don't have to give a **** about exhausts, because on the CPU the difference is gonna be pretty much non-existent, and on the GPU irrelevant.

I know this, because i tested it, and i know this because it was suggested and tested by other ppl before me.

"It really doesn't matter how much ambient air you get into the case if you're not getting a sufficient amount of the stack effect hot air out."

Air you move in, moves out, it doesnt stack. Get that out of your heads. This stupid conception flies all over the internet If you have intake, case eventually get filled and build up pressure untill it's expelled by itself. The time that takes to leave the case is the key. If you have low resistance for intake on the front and even lower on the back, you don't need exhausts. Exhaust fans in a setup like this, do something, but is not worth considering, because the difference in temps is futile and the added noise and cost is considerable.

"Hundreds of hours of testing by a variety of reviewers bears this out." 

Aahhh the publitubers and those that test different form factor coolers (on air cooling you have at least 3 types of tower coolers that have different behavior regarding air moved through them and static pressure) on a test bench, and different form factor cases with standardised fans setup and RPM. Come on man! Be serious pls! And you call my recommendation a gross oversimplification. What a f joke!!!

".....gain some additional knowledge before making recommendations that could affect somebody else's wallet."

I guess on this one, your mouth got ahead of you. Im actually recommending something efficient, and I'm pretty sure is pretty much one of the most cost friendly option, and even by your standards, it would be incomplete in any case, rather than wasted money.

For a person that calls out others, you do a lot of mistakes. You might wanna chew on that.


----------



## Shenhua

Also I'm writing from the premise of air cooling at very low noise (lower or equal with ambient), and you from the perspective of water cooling at acceptable and/or barrable noise levels (that's why you're all over static pressure fans and negative pressure setup, which is not wrong, but it has to many cons from a practical point and a cost effective one).

It's a Meshify C. It's a case made for air cooling. I know you can barely cram a 240+360 with 30mm thickness, but that's far from ideal, considering the costs of a custom loop, and if you spending that kind of money you have a high end new CPU (stupid high thermal density) and a GPU, that's gonna spit 400w (die,vram and vrm) into the loop and you will have the GPU at 45-50°C, and your CPU skyrocketing into the 70s and with more noise than running on air. I've seen this so many times. This is not a case for water cooling.

AIOs are simply not worth the money and the problems, because placing it in the front is less than ideal, and might not fit because of the GPU cooler, and on the top usually hits the RAM. Also, in this case, a top air cooler, it's gonna give you at very lest equal performance at lower noise, and without pump noise (idle) as the best AIO out there. And air coolers don't have expiration date.

I already did my part here, and added much more than I planned on the topic. GL.


----------



## -X3-

Thanks for the elaborate posts, really appreciate it!


----------



## -X3-

Got another question. Currently I've got a NH-C14 cooler which I really like, but it's built to direct air to the side panel. The Meshify C's side panel is sealed, would that impede airflow significantly?

Thanks.


----------



## Multiplectic

What do you mean it's directing air to the side panel...?
It should be blowing top-down, straight to the motherboard, RAM and/or VRM heatsinks.


----------



## 331149

-X3- said:


> Got another question. Currently I've got a NH-C14 cooler which I really like, but it's built to direct air to the side panel. The Meshify C's side panel is sealed, would that impede airflow significantly?
> 
> Thanks.


No it's an old style cooler, meaning it blows downwards (towards the cpu & motherboard). Great for cooling vrm on the motherboard. Your intake and exhaust fans will take care of the rest. Of course if you mounted the fan the wrong way .. Not good 

Edit: I just looked at the cooler, it's got 2 fans on it. Both of them should be blowing down towards the cpu. If you have them blowing the opposite direction, they will use the heat from the cpu to cool the cpu, instead of fresh cool air provided by the intake fans.


----------



## -X3-

TheBDK said:


> No it's an old style cooler, meaning it blows downwards (towards the cpu & motherboard). Great for cooling vrm on the motherboard. Your intake and exhaust fans will take care of the rest. Of course if you mounted the fan the wrong way .. Not good
> 
> Edit: I just looked at the cooler, it's got 2 fans on it. Both of them should be blowing down towards the cpu. If you have them blowing the opposite direction, they will use the heat from the cpu to cool the cpu, instead of fresh cool air provided by the intake fans.


I have them installed correctly, at least based on other setups that used the same cooler I've seen online, I just thought this orientation moved hot air through the side panel, guess it's the other way around. Thanks for clearing that up!


----------



## man from atlantis

My fan setup;
3 exhaust (fractal dynamic x2 gp-14), 5 intake (bequiet SW3 1000rpm)


----------



## Some Tech Nub

I finally got around to doing a more in-depth video about my modded Define Mini C TG. It's got a transparent LCD side panel!






Thanks Fractal for making such an awesome case.


----------



## Greenish_

After a year of deciding I bought R6. Everything is fine, I love it.
But few minor issues I still have, mostly its noise. Case is placed under a table.

Noise levels:
- NO HDDs, NO fans connected = dead silence = temperature torture inside;
- NO HDDs, 3 fans connected = audible;
- 3 HDDs, NO fans connected = barely audible = temp issues again;
- 3 HDDs, 3 fans = noise is noticeable.
What I think, that main noise source are stock fans, that are running on full speed. 
Fans are connected to HUB, and HUB's 4 pin goes to SYS_FAN. 
I found few articles where people report that actually you can control speed of these 3pin hub fans, you just cannot get readings, but by ear you should detect that. 
Probably controlling these fans depends from your motherboard, in my case, my BIOS has only simple elements to control fans (Normal, Silent, Full, Manual), and after some testing, I think these parameters don't affect speed at all. 

My question is, *did someone tried to lower RPMs for stock Dynamic X2 GP-14 (non PWM) fans, by using Noctua NA-SRC10, 3 Pin Low-Noise Adaptors?*


----------



## Shenhua

Greenish_ said:


> After a year of deciding I bought R6. Everything is fine, I love it.
> 
> But few minor issues I still have, mostly its noise. Case is placed under a table.
> 
> 
> 
> Noise levels:
> 
> - NO HDDs, NO fans connected = dead silence = temperature torture inside;
> 
> - NO HDDs, 3 fans connected = audible;
> 
> - 3 HDDs, NO fans connected = barely audible = temp issues again;
> 
> - 3 HDDs, 3 fans = noise is noticeable.
> 
> What I think, that main noise source are stock fans, that are running on full speed.
> 
> Fans are connected to HUB, and HUB's 4 pin goes to SYS_FAN.
> 
> I found few articles where people report that actually you can control speed of these 3pin hub fans, you just cannot get readings, but by ear you should detect that.
> 
> Probably controlling these fans depends from your motherboard, in my case, my BIOS has only simple elements to control fans (Normal, Silent, Full, Manual), and after some testing, I think these parameters don't affect speed at all.
> 
> 
> 
> My question is, *did someone tried to lower RPMs for stock Dynamic X2 GP-14 (non PWM) fans, by using Noctua NA-SRC10, 3 Pin Low-Noise Adaptors?*


I did not try the LNA adapters, but you shouldn't need them. The fans are perfectly controlable from bios via DC. I have an X2 GP-12 in my Meshify C, and both with gigabyte and MSI, never had an issue to control it just like if it would be a PWM fan.

Also, you can have fans, very good cooling and barely audible noise. It's just a matter of configuring correctly the setup (it sounds easier than done).


----------



## Shenhua

man from atlantis said:


> My fan setup;
> 
> 3 exhaust (fractal dynamic x2 gp-14), 5 intake (bequiet SW3 1000rpm)


Great setup. Maybe a bit noisy by my standards, but temps should be outstanding.


----------



## Greenish_

*Shenhua*
It feels like it depends on motherboard & bios implementation. Mine is old GA-H81M-S2V.
I just really don't feel any difference in speed, when trying to change speed in bios, or via OS.
Web results reports that "new" gigabyte boards tend to support PWM and DC fan controls, but seems I'm out of luck, and mine is old enough. 

If reviews on amazons are correct, then these adapters should lower voltage from 12V to 7V, and by looking on fan curves on web, RPMs should get from 900 to 500.


----------



## Shenhua

Greenish_ said:


> *Shenhua*
> 
> It feels like it depends on motherboard & bios implementation. Mine is old GA-H81M-S2V.
> 
> I just really don't feel any difference in speed, when trying to change speed in bios, or via OS.
> 
> Web results reports that "new" gigabyte boards tend to support PWM and DC fan controls, but seems I'm out of luck, and mine is old enough.
> 
> 
> 
> If reviews on amazons are correct, then these adapters should lower voltage from 12V to 5V, and by looking on fan curves on web, RPMs should get from 900 to 500.


You don't need to feel, just install hwinfo and monitor the RPM and the temps with a custom fan curve.

Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 3 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## Greenish_

*Shenhua*
Thats the problem, there are no RPM reports from hub. 

Connection chain:
3 Fans > 3Pin Hub Ports > 4Pin Bottom right pin goes to SYS_FAN (this should report RPMs to MB).

Will try to play with CPU_FAN header, instead of SYS_FAN.


----------



## Greenish_

Bump. Another idea, can I power hub by supplying to it 5v or 7v, after DIY'ing some molex cables? Can this lower fan RPMs?


----------



## Multiplectic

Well, if the hub only does a power passthrough without any controllers in between, yeah, that will work and lower the RPMs.


----------



## darkarn

Hi! I am thinking of getting Define R6 as I need a case that can cool at least 6 HDDs as well as my system. How are the temperatures for HDDs like for Define R6 users here?


----------



## Some Tech Nubxs

very warm. like 80-100


----------



## darkarn

Some Tech Nubxs said:


> very warm. like 80-100



Celsius or Fahrenheit?


----------



## 414347

I'm sure he means F otherwise HDD would fried itself and btw. 100F/37C Its optimum temperature and as long is you don't go beyond 45C Its just fine.


----------



## Multiplectic

^ That.

80-100f for a HDD is completely fine. If they get close to 120f I'd start to worry about the temps.


----------



## darkarn

NewUser16 said:


> I'm sure he means F otherwise HDD would fried itself and btw. 100F/37C Its optimum temperature and as long is you don't go beyond 45C Its just fine.





Multiplectic said:


> ^ That.
> 
> 80-100f for a HDD is completely fine. If they get close to 120f I'd start to worry about the temps.


Thanks, this is good temp seeing how my HDDs hit 45 degrees Celsius and above most of the time


----------



## Some Tech Nub

Some Tech Nubxs said:


> very warm. like 80-100


Bruh why is your name basically mine x.x



darkarn said:


> Celsius or Fahrenheit?


Definitely F, but who reads out pc part temperatures in F?


----------



## darkarn

Some Tech Nub said:


> Definitely F, but who reads out pc part temperatures in F?


That was why I got confused too lol


----------



## Owterspace

I’ve got a fractal case, no problem with cfm here 😄

https://youtu.be/awv1UeefJ0I


----------



## darkarn

Fractal Design said:


> They're interchangeable, but you'd need the panel, bezel, and front I/O to complete the swap. This goes for the Define S2 <-> Meshify S2, Define C <-> Meshify C, and Define Mini C <-> Meshify C Mini. You could even put a Meshify S2 front panel on a Define R6 if you really wanted to and had all the necessary parts.


Sorry for the necro, am I right to say that:
1. Is the Meshify S2 is the only model that can support Define R6 for this?

2. Will warranty be affected?
3. Where can this be obtained and for how much usually?


----------



## chibi

Hi there, I'm interested in the Meshify C. Can you guys help me out with cooling the components below?

CPU: 9900KS (aio or air tower)
GPU: 2080 Ti Founders Edition (stock cooling)

I want to run my fans at max 1000 rpm for all intake, exhaust & heatsink applications where possible. Would it be better to get an AIO (Kraken x72) for the front? Or should I look into an air cooler such as the NH-U12A? I don't want a D15 because the dual towers look too big in my opinion.

Front panel I will run 3x intake fans. Top panel I will run 2x exhaust fans, rear panel will be 1x exhaust fan. What cooler would be best at 1k rpm, AIO or Single Tower air cooler?

Thanks!


----------



## Shenhua

chibi said:


> Hi there, I'm interested in the Meshify C. Can you guys help me out with cooling the components below?
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: 9900KS
> 
> GPU: 2080 Ti Founders Edition
> 
> 
> 
> I want to run my fans at max 1000 rpm for all intake, exhaust & heatsink applications where possible. Would it be better to get an AIO (Kraken x72) for the front? Or should I look into an air cooler such as the NH-U12A? I don't want a D15 because the dual towers look to big in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> Front panel I will run 3x intake fans. Top panel I will run 2x exhaust fans, rear panel will be 1x exhaust fan. What cooler would be best at 1k rpm, AIO or Single Tower air cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


If you don't want much RPM in a small case, with a lot of heat, you want a big cooler, that has enough heatsink to scale performance as case fans RPM scale. Dont pick your cooler based on test bench reviews.

Get a 2080ti that you can mod with 120mm fans and run them from the GPU fan connection.

Remove the top of the PSU, tuck the excess cables behind the motherboard, remove the drive cage, and mount storage on the floor of the case. Get a thermalright le grand macho RT, or an HR-22plus, for cooling. They are some of the biggest heatsinks in the market, and they are heatsink optimised for low RPM.

Sincronize the RPM of the case fans with cooler's. And you are done.

Also, don't use the 2.5 SSD slots behind the motherboard. They get very hot. A good idea would be to inform yourself and manually overclock it with offset voltage and p-states, even to bellow 5ghz, but on all cores. It will still give you the performance, but it will reduce the stress and the time it stays stressed.


----------



## chibi

Northman said:


> My plan for the Meshify C is.
> Remove foam filter in front..rely on mesh to stop most dust.
> 
> Noctua Fans
> 3 x A12x25 Intake
> 1 x A12x25 Rear Exhaust
> 1 x A12x25 Roof Exhaust
> D15s CPU cooler
> 
> (3xA12x25 in front have shown to cool better, with 2-4 dB less noise then 2x Noctua A14 in front on this particular case.)
> 
> Cut up the PSU shroud for better air flow, remove all PCI slots, cut out grills in front of Exhaust fans for maximum airflow.



Did you complete this mod yet? Also, may I get the citation for the 3x 120 front intake being better than 2x 140 at less noise? Thank you :thumb:


----------



## The Pook

chibi said:


> Did you complete this mod yet? Also, may I get the citation for the 3x 120 front intake being better than 2x 140 at less noise? Thank you :thumb:



I've yet to see anyone really do an apples to apples comparison but I can't imagine either one really being universally better than the other, I'd imagine it depends on what 120 fans vs what 140 fans. 

120s generally have better static pressure so if you're keeping the foam dust filter the 120s might be better. 

140s (usually) have either higher CFM at the same noise levels or the same CFM at lower noise levels (and only 2 hub dead spots vs 3), but CFM is less important than SP if you're running a dense foam dust filter. 

my guess would be for the best performance at any noise level: 3x 120, and best performance with the least amount of noise: 2x 140.


----------



## Shenhua

The Pook said:


> I've yet to see anyone really do a an apples to apples comparison but I can't imagine either one really being universally better than the other, I'd imagine it depends on what 120 fans vs what 140 fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 120s generally have better static pressure so if you're keeping the foam dust filter the 120s might be better.
> 
> 
> 
> 140s (usually) have either higher CFM at the same noise levels or the same CFM at lower noise levels (and only 2 hub dead spots vs 3), but CFM is less important than SP if you're running a dense foam dust filter.
> 
> 
> 
> my guess would be for the best performance at any noise level: 3x 120, and best performance with the least amount of noise: 2x 140.


Stop treating the fans like stand alone, when it comes to performance comparisons. Once you place them in a case, there's so many factors to count in.

3x120mm vs 2x140mm in the meshify C, bring a drastic improvement in GPU temps if you let the PSU shroud clean and open, aswell as a small improvement in CPU temps. Tested.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Shenhua

chibi said:


> Did you complete this mod yet? Also, may I get the citation for the 3x 120 front intake being better than 2x 140 at less noise? Thank you :thumb:


Don't waste your money on nf a12x25. Yes they are superior than everything out there. But that's after 1200rpm. You shouldn't need to cross the 1000rpm line. I have sw3

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Shenhua

Also meshify C can fit 2x140mm +120 in the front. You have to strap one of them with zip ties, but it shouldn't be a problem.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## The Pook

Shenhua said:


> Stop treating the fans like stand alone



where did I mention anything about "stand alone" fans? 

how many open air test benches do you know with dust filters?


----------



## Owterspace

With my meshify I had a stock fan at the bottom, so I put a ty147a there instead.. much better.. my gpu idles at 29-30 with the fan at 0 lol. Surprisingly the Thermalright fan at 12v is a bit louder than my thick fans at 7v, but moving about the same amount of air.


----------



## hazium233

Owterspace said:


> With my meshify I had a stock fan at the bottom, so I put a ty147a there instead.. much better.. my gpu idles at 29-30 with the fan at 0 lol. Surprisingly the Thermalright fan at 12v is a bit louder than my thick fans at 7v, but moving about the same amount of air.


Did you have to trim the 147A to fit in the bottom? I have a Meshify C and am looking to revamp the fans since switching out a 1060 and 1600 for a 2060 and 2700X.

I have a sort of odd intake config now with an Arctic F14 right above the shroud, and a GP12 stock fan at the upper slot. My 2060 is a Strix card and is very close to the F14 unfortunately and was actually thinking of swapping that to an F140MP and maybe placing a 120mm at the very bottom. But if a 147A fits without too much trouble, maybe I will go with that.

On a different note, I don't use a top radiator, but I have noticed over time that it seems like the Mesh C will draw a fair amount of air through the top mesh, especially near the rear. With my 1600 and Wraith Spire, it seemed like it was mostly localized to the rear 1/3, and I assumed it might be from over-spinning the rear 120mm. With the 2700X I am getting more flow downward towards the middle.

This may in part be because I tried to raise minimum RPM on the Prism to counteract the somewhat annoying tendency for the fan to "saw-tooth" at light load (Firefox mostly) with the default Asus PWM "Standard" curve. It is a work in progress, I should probably drop it some more on the low end. Or bite the bullet and go tower cooler.


----------



## Owterspace

oops, cant delete my post.


----------



## Owterspace

hazium233 said:


> Did you have to trim the 147A to fit in the bottom? I have a Meshify C and am looking to revamp the fans since switching out a 1060 and 1600 for a 2060 and 2700X.
> 
> I have a sort of odd intake config now with an Arctic F14 right above the shroud, and a GP12 stock fan at the upper slot. My 2060 is a Strix card and is very close to the F14 unfortunately and was actually thinking of swapping that to an F140MP and maybe placing a 120mm at the very bottom. But if a 147A fits without too much trouble, maybe I will go with that.
> 
> On a different note, I don't use a top radiator, but I have noticed over time that it seems like the Mesh C will draw a fair amount of air through the top mesh, especially near the rear. With my 1600 and Wraith Spire, it seemed like it was mostly localized to the rear 1/3, and I assumed it might be from over-spinning the rear 120mm. With the 2700X I am getting more flow downward towards the middle.
> 
> This may in part be because I tried to raise minimum RPM on the Prism to counteract the somewhat annoying tendency for the fan to "saw-tooth" at light load (Firefox mostly) with the default Asus PWM "Standard" curve. It is a work in progress, I should probably drop it some more on the low end. Or bite the bullet and go tower cooler.


No trimming needed. It fit, and there is still plenty of room. I saw guys mount 3x 140s in the front, though I haven't done that as I have more than enough flow..

As for air being pulled in from the top I can see that. With mine I have so much air coming in the front that it wants to all go out the top. So I have 1 top intake, slightly offset, and forward of the stock location to keep the air in the case and guide air into the cooler. The whole setup is extremely effective, and relatively quiet, though no where near silent. Dust hasn't been much of a problem like I thought it would. I do have 4 out of my 5 120x38s on a controller from my R4 and they run at 5v most of the time. I do have an exhaust running at 12v, but its quiet and still very effective. I also have a 92x38 under my GPU as an exhaust as well. The slowest it runs is 1800rpm, if I run it faster it will starve my gpu of air and it will run a few c warmer. The way I have it now is better than having just the pci covers in place.


----------



## Shenhua

hazium233 said:


> Did you have to trim the 147A to fit in the bottom? I have a Meshify C and am looking to revamp the fans since switching out a 1060 and 1600 for a 2060 and 2700X.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a sort of odd intake config now with an Arctic F14 right above the shroud, and a GP12 stock fan at the upper slot. My 2060 is a Strix card and is very close to the F14 unfortunately and was actually thinking of swapping that to an F140MP and maybe placing a 120mm at the very bottom. But if a 147A fits without too much trouble, maybe I will go with that.
> 
> 
> 
> On a different note, I don't use a top radiator, but I have noticed over time that it seems like the Mesh C will draw a fair amount of air through the top mesh, especially near the rear. With my 1600 and Wraith Spire, it seemed like it was mostly localized to the rear 1/3, and I assumed it might be from over-spinning the rear 120mm. With the 2700X I am getting more flow downward towards the middle.
> 
> 
> 
> This may in part be because I tried to raise minimum RPM on the Prism to counteract the somewhat annoying tendency for the fan to "saw-tooth" at light load (Firefox mostly) with the default Asus PWM "Standard" curve. It is a work in progress, I should probably drop it some more on the low end. Or bite the bullet and go tower cooler.


You can always mod the GPU with 120mm fans. I did on a 1080 strix. Almost identical cards.

As for case cooling just run the tipical 3x120mm front or 2x140+120mm with or without a rear fan.

That should do the job. For me it does. Excellently.

I do have a tower cooler tho, and i suggest getting one, even if it's a gammaxx 400. It will greatly benefit from the airflow of the case in comparison with the stock one.


----------



## Ownedj00

Here is my build in the Meshify C. specs in sig below


----------



## hazium233

Owterspace said:


> No trimming needed. It fit, and there is still plenty of room. I saw guys mount 3x 140s in the front, though I haven't done that as I have more than enough flow..


Hmmm. I have only seen a passing reference speculating that if the front IO bits are trimmed, that 3x140mm might fit, but haven't seen any pictures of that.

I ended up ordering a pair of 140mm SW3 High Speeds to go in the front with an as of yet to be determined 120mm. Besides the two GP12s in the case, I have an ancient ZM-F3 FDB SF also laying around. But I expected to either wait for a 120mm SW3 to go on sale, or just get an F120MP or something for the third fan. But now I might have to look for pics of 3x140mm setups.



Shenhua said:


> You can always mod the GPU with 120mm fans. I did on a 1080 strix. Almost identical cards.
> 
> As for case cooling just run the tipical 3x120mm front or 2x140+120mm with or without a rear fan.
> 
> That should do the job. For me it does. Excellently.
> 
> I do have a tower cooler tho, and i suggest getting one, even if it's a gammaxx 400. It will greatly benefit from the airflow of the case in comparison with the stock one.


Not quite prepared for fan swap on the GPU yet, although that does seem like it should be a good solution.

I was sort of thinking True Spirit 140 Power. I don't want a cooler that will rattle against the glass though, and that one is very close to the max spec (172mm max for Mesh C with TG). Originally I expected to buy a Mugen 5 for my 1600, but that never happened because I didn't bother to OC the cores on it.


----------



## Shenhua

hazium233 said:


> Hmmm. I have only seen a passing reference speculating that if the front IO bits are trimmed, that 3x140mm might fit, but haven't seen any pictures of that.
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up ordering a pair of 140mm SW3 High Speeds to go in the front with an as of yet to be determined 120mm. Besides the two GP12s in the case, I have an ancient ZM-F3 FDB SF also laying around. But I expected to either wait for a 120mm SW3 to go on sale, or just get an F120MP or something for the third fan. But now I might have to look for pics of 3x140mm setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not quite prepared for fan swap on the GPU yet, although that does seem like it should be a good solution.
> 
> 
> 
> I was sort of thinking True Spirit 140 Power. I don't want a cooler that will rattle against the glass though, and that one is very close to the max spec (172mm max for Mesh C with TG). Originally I expected to buy a Mugen 5 for my 1600, but that never happened because I didn't bother to OC the cores on it.


I suggest you to be careful with ryzen and thermalright and stay on the safe side. Get a aro m14, cus it will have good contact for sure since it has a flat coldplate, and for the components you have it's gonna give you top performance anyway.


----------



## Owterspace

I will be using my TS140P on Ryzen if I go with AMD. I work in a machine shop, so it would be no trouble to take a few thou off the top.


----------



## hazium233

Yeah it is hard to divine whether this is a general issue, or variation in shapes whether that be the cooler bases or the 2700X's. Mine is relatively recent production (1922PGT), and I have only had the Prism on it.

My amateur thoughts would have been that slight convexity shouldn't be a problem with a soldiered, centered, monolithic cpu like a Zen1 or Zen+. Over in the TS 140P thread you have a couple people that didn't seem to have a problem, and at least one with a really bad mount on a 2700X though. I had seen this before, but was tempted to roll the dice anyway given how common base convexity is in HSF.


----------



## stilllogicz

I own a meshify s2 in white and I want to paint over the black panels (psu shroud, motherboard tray). I'm having one hell of a hard time finding a can of spray paint that matches the white color of the powder coat on this case. Does anyone have any help they could offer?


----------



## yuyue

Does someone think or know if a new version of the Meshify C is coming out soon? Looks like it's been 2+ years, I'm wondering if they would release a updated V2 or something like that.


----------



## 161029

I don't really see what they need to update. Only things I could think of would be to switch to a finer mesh and remove the foam layer (but currently it doesn't really impede airflow as is) and make the front panel I/O separable from the front panel like on the Define C, neither of which seem really worthwhile for them to do. USB E headers are very slowly finding their way onto boards but USB-C isn't very useful yet despite being quite expensive to manufacture.


----------



## Owterspace

I don't run any of the mesh or filters, and have 4 in, 3 out. It works fantastic. This is a great case. I had to apply some sharpie to break up some of the white up front, and I also did the top fan area in black sharpie. I like it. Ghetto AF.


----------



## jcpq

Black & White

Ryzen 3600X
Power Color 5700X
Gskill @ 3800MHz
EvoPlus 1Tb


----------



## elzhi

3700x
MSI GPC x470
MSI Gaming 1080ti
Crucial Ballistix 2x 16GB
Noctua DH-D15 chromax

Noctua NF-A12x25 x 4, removed the foam filter since it was all clogged up with dust, cut out the honeycomb mesh around the exhaust fan to reduce noise, all pcie plates are removed, the top of the case is blocked, all SSD storage, custom fan curves with idle RPM hovering between 400-500 RPM.

most likely could do without the exhaust fan (and extra CPU fan) but this thing is so silent i can hear electrical noises coming from the case (not sure what to call it since coil whine is loud and annoying, and what i hear is barely audible) 

the only thing annoying me is the noisy fans on the graphics card, Rajintek Morpheus is next on my list.


----------



## Shenhua

elzhi said:


> 3700x
> 
> MSI GPC x470
> 
> MSI Gaming 1080ti
> 
> Crucial Ballistix 2x 16GB
> 
> Noctua DH-D15 chromax
> 
> 
> 
> Noctua NF-A12x25 x 4, removed the foam filter since it was all clogged up with dust, cut out the honeycomb mesh around the exhaust fan to reduce noise, all pcie plates are removed, the top of the case is blocked, all SSD storage, custom fan curves with idle RPM hovering between 400-500 RPM.
> 
> 
> 
> most likely could do without the exhaust fan (and extra CPU fan) but this thing is so silent i can hear electrical noises coming from the case (not sure what to call it since coil whine is loud and annoying, and what i hear is barely audible)
> 
> 
> 
> the only thing annoying me is the noisy fans on the graphics card, Rajintek Morpheus is next on my list.


Just use some 120mm fans on the stock radiator. Less hassle, less wasted money, and you cool everything instead of the die alone.


----------



## kikimaru024

Noob question, but is the Noctua NF-S12 (airflow) the correct style of 120mm fan for the front panel of a Define R6? 
Or will 3x of them overcome any inherent weakness in using them over P12/P14 (pressure) fans?


----------



## Dogzilla07

kikimaru024 said:


> Noob question, but is the Noctua NF-S12 (airflow) the correct style of 120mm fan for the front panel of a Define R6?
> Or will 3x of them overcome any inherent weakness in using them over P12/P14 (pressure) fans?


Not really, as soon as there is any material before or after your fan, pressure oriented fans do better (not all, but all the good ones). the mesh, the dustfilter, metal, having to take air from the sides it all adds up.

P12/P14 are the best bang for buck. Noctua NF-A12x25 and Be Quiet SW3 will probably have the best sound profile (with the expensive new Noctua being the best).

NF-S12 only works good if you can put an object straight through the hole where the fan goes, from where it's gonna sit, to the air cooler/GPU.

I like to joke about it: Can you poke your air cooler with a stick or a ruler through the front of your case, no ? => pressure fans.


----------



## Shenhua

kikimaru024 said:


> Noob question, but is the Noctua NF-S12 (airflow) the correct style of 120mm fan for the front panel of a Define R6?
> 
> Or will 3x of them overcome any inherent weakness in using them over P12/P14 (pressure) fans?


It depends on too many factors both that you can actively change and you can't. The thing is, p12/p14 are good fans, if you go over them, go straight to the top. I agree with nf a12x25 being best 120mm fans by far. That being said it's irrelevant, because the difference start to show up after an RPM you shouldn't run your fans anyway, but they cost 50% more. Also avoid nf a14. They're just as good as sw3, if not, slightly better, but their noise profile it's annoying af after 1000-1100rpm.

If you don't go top go p14/pure wings 2. P14s are good enough for meshify S2.

Im throwing the pure wings 2 into the mix because you might find bulk fans at 4-5-6 bucks, and while they are used, they have better quality control and they don't break (either fan starts wears fast or RPM error readings) so often like arctic value pack fans do. But don't buy pure wings if they are not on a similar price.....p12 even if they break, they're too cheap to take it into account.


----------



## kikimaru024

Thanks for the info!
Currently I have Noctua P14 Redux (2 front, 1 rear) but yeah they get audible enough to be a bother. 
CPU cooler is NH-U14S with 7V adapter. 
Pure Wings 2 (BL040, 120mm) seem cheap enough @£8. 
What about Noctua NF-F12?


----------



## Dogzilla07

NF-F12's not worth it, it's worse than NF-P12/NF-P14. Pure Wings 2 performance just isn't there, but they'd be okay-ish.

Personally I'd still get the Arctic P14s/P12s value pack.


----------



## kikimaru024

What about the Phanteks PH-F120MP?

Similar noise & performance going by TPU: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/noctua-nf-f12-pwm-chromax/5.html


----------



## Shenhua

kikimaru024 said:


> Thanks for the info!
> 
> Currently I have Noctua P14 Redux (2 front, 1 rear) but yeah they get audible enough to be a bother.
> 
> CPU cooler is NH-U14S with 7V adapter.
> 
> Pure Wings 2 (BL040, 120mm) seem cheap enough @£8.
> 
> What about Noctua NF-F12?


Pure wings are not better than redux. If you have redux don't get pure wings. I was saying that if you need to buy fans, either you buy cheap or you buy top.

Dont buy the middle ground ones.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

9 years after my Define Mini, just got a Meshify C Mini. Loved working with this case. It is kept really quiet with Fractal's HP12-PWM fans. My favorite build so far.


----------



## Shenhua

Is that a Christmas three or a PC? You might wanna check your SSD temps when your CPU is under load.....


----------



## raggazam

New case and ram


----------



## gasolin

Ryzen 3600 core 2300 case

240mm in the top or front? Bitwit say in the front is better

240mm in the top (exhaust) i feel kind of strange having an rear exhaust fan trying to suck out air vertical and the aio tries to do the same thing horizontal, does the rear exhaust fan even get any air out of the case worth mentioning ?


So a 240mm in the top no rear fan, 2x120mm in the front ?  240mm in the front, 2x120mm in the top as exhaust,no rear fan ?

Can i have a cd/dvdplayer , 1x 120 aio and a 120mm fan under or over the 120mm aio? There is space for a 280mm aio in the front so 1x120mm aio and 1x120mm case fan under or over could be possible when using a cd/dvd player?


120mm or 240mm aio ? Any other low budget aio than the cooler master lite aio worth considering? (the pump can be 99% quiet,silent)


----------



## CptAsian

raggazam said:


> New case and ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler



Super clean in front and back, looks great!


----------



## 331149

*How to make the front LED look a lot better with better viewing angles and softer brightness.*


As you can see in the first picture, there's nothing in front of the super bright LED. I really wish Fractal would incorporate a piece of plastic that would have a similar effect.
-------------------------

1) Remove the front and cut masking tape to fit. Apply 2 or 3 layers minimum.
2) Enjoy  It's hard to show how it looks with pictures. Trust me, it looks much better in real life.


----------



## z0ki

Hey guys got my R6 during the week to house my unRaid server and it was great to build in. But I am finding the stock front fans to be unsatisfactory in cooling my HDD’s. 


I am looking at buying the Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM Chromax (1500rpm) fans to replace the two stock fans in the front. Would these be sufficient to push air over the drives?


----------



## 331149

z0ki said:


> Hey guys got my R6 during the week to house my unRaid server and it was great to build in. But I am finding the stock front fans to be unsatisfactory in cooling my HDD’s.
> 
> 
> I am looking at buying the Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM Chromax (1500rpm) fans to replace the two stock fans in the front. Would these be sufficient to push air over the drives?


Yep excellent fans indeed, I have 2 of them installed as a matter of fact  They are able to suck an immense amount of air through the dust filter no problem.


----------



## z0ki

TheBDK said:


> Yep excellent fans indeed, I have 2 of them installed as a matter of fact  They are able to suck an immense amount of air through the dust filter no problem.


Awesome thanks man. I seen a lot of good things spoken about those particular fans on various forums but nothing specific about the R6 and copious amounts of HDD's. Not looking for miracles in hard drive cooling but don't want to worry about my drives getting too hot, especially here in Australia lol


----------



## 331149

z0ki said:


> Awesome thanks man. I seen a lot of good things spoken about those particular fans on various forums but nothing specific about the R6 and copious amounts of HDD's. Not looking for miracles in hard drive cooling but don't want to worry about my drives getting too hot, especially here in Australia lol


I have the Define C, same air intake design as the R6 and I can feel the air blowing out through every opening when I ramp them up to full speed. I have mine at 60% for dead silent cooling and can still feel air coming out the back of the case. They are seriously good fans. Yes I prefer positive air pressure, I hate dust 

The R6 has drive cages right up to the fans, so they'll be ultra cooled no problem. The NF-A14's are also high pressure fans, so they are perfect for this scenario.


----------



## Shenhua

z0ki said:


> Hey guys got my R6 during the week to house my unRaid server and it was great to build in. But I am finding the stock front fans to be unsatisfactory in cooling my HDD’s.
> 
> 
> I am looking at buying the Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM Chromax (1500rpm) fans to replace the two stock fans in the front. Would these be sufficient to push air over the drives?





TheBDK said:


> Yep excellent fans indeed, I have 2 of them installed as a matter of fact  They are able to suck an immense amount of air through the dust filter no problem.


I had them and don't like them. They're annoying aF after 1100-1200rpm. Get sw3 if they are at the same price. Same performance, same noise, but much better sound profile.


----------



## Gruff

Been having an itch to do a SFF build but a lot of the good ITX cases are hard to find in stock, or are way too expensive for what they are. I'd love to see Fractal do a SFF ITX case with the sandwich style layout (i.e. CPU, Mobo, PSU on one side, GPU on the other). 

Maybe have a Meshify style panel on either side and make it look like an old amp speaker.


----------



## Gruff

z0ki said:


> Hey guys got my R6 during the week to house my unRaid server and it was great to build in. But I am finding the stock front fans to be unsatisfactory in cooling my HDD’s.
> 
> 
> I am looking at buying the Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM Chromax (1500rpm) fans to replace the two stock fans in the front. Would these be sufficient to push air over the drives?



I have to NF-A14's up front on my Meshify C and they move good amounts of air while staying quiet. I have my fan curve flat so that they spin at 900 rpm all the time, except for when CPU temperatures start to get over 55C. 

Fractal's own 140mm Dynamic X2 PWM GP-14 fans (the ones rated for 105 CFM) are pretty good too but they are louder at high RPM's. They move a lot of air, more than most other 140mm case fans i've tried.


----------



## 331149

Gruff said:


> I have to NF-A14's up front on my Meshify C and they move good amounts of air while staying quiet. I have my fan curve flat so that they spin at 900 rpm all the time, except for when CPU temperatures start to get over 55C.
> 
> Fractal's own 140mm Dynamic X2 PWM GP-14 fans (the ones rated for 105 CFM) are pretty good too but they are louder at high RPM's. They move a lot of air, more than most other 140mm case fans i've tried.


I could barely feel any air coming from Fractals stock fans. Also they were stinking up my game room for whatever reason. Honestly, I think they are worse than the cheap China crap you can find. They are silent because they dont move any air at all. I'd hate to actually pay for these outside getting them for free with a Fractal case. Wasted money.


----------



## Gruff

I was talking about the 4 pin PWM versions that are rated at 105 CFM, not the ones that are included with cases. 

https://www.fractal-design.com/products/fans/dynamic/dynamic-x2-gp-14-pwm/black/


----------



## Shenhua

Gruff said:


> I was talking about the 4 pin PWM versions that are rated at 105 CFM, not the ones that are included with cases.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.fractal-design.com/products/fans/dynamic/dynamic-x2-gp-14-pwm/black/


That's the one comes with the cases.


----------



## 331149

Yeah the X2 is what Fractal gives you with any case, although I got the 120mm not the 140mm. That might have something to do with it in terms of airflow.


----------



## man from atlantis

Shenhua said:


> That's the one comes with the cases.


At least the ones comes from Meshify S2 are 1000RPM fans and not PWM. I'm pretty happy with them though, they move plenty of air.

https://www.fractal-design.com/products/fans/dynamic/dynamic-x2-gp-14/black/


----------



## Gruff

Shenhua said:


> That's the one comes with the cases.


The ones that come with cases are 3 pin and rated at 68 CFM and have very little static pressure.

The ones I'm talking about are 4 pin PWM, have high static pressure and rated at 105 CFM, like I've repeatedly mentioned in my last two posts (and even posted a link to).


----------



## Shenhua

Gruff said:


> The ones that come with cases are 3 pin and rated at 68 CFM and have very little static pressure.
> 
> 
> 
> The ones I'm talking about are 4 pin PWM, have high static pressure and rated at 105 CFM, like I've repeatedly mentioned in my last two posts (and even posted a link to).


Because they are lower max Rpm, that's why. It's still the same fan.


----------



## z0ki

TheBDK said:


> I could barely feel any air coming from Fractals stock fans. Also they were stinking up my game room for whatever reason. Honestly, I think they are worse than the cheap China crap you can find. They are silent because they dont move any air at all. I'd hate to actually pay for these outside getting them for free with a Fractal case. Wasted money.


 What kind of smell? Because I've noticed a sort of plastic/burning smell every since I got this case lol. I also noticed they move next to NO air! Even the rear fan i put a peice of paper against it and it barely moves and it's running at full speed lol. 

I think I will go with a Noctua NH-D15 PWM Chromax Black cooler, and two Noctua 140mm NF-A14 PWM Chromax Black at the front for my HDD's and another NF-A14 as exhaust.

**EDIT*

Actually scrap that. I don't think I can go with the NH-D15 as it will block the first PCI-E slot on my board 










It is primarily used for my unRaid server, I am not sure if a Quadro P2000 or 1660Ti (yet to decide) that I want to buy for transcoding will suffer from performance in the second PCI-E slot?


----------



## GeneO

NH-d15s? Designed to give more clearance there.


----------



## z0ki

GeneO said:


> NH-d15s? Designed to give more clearance there.


Hmm that could work but was hoping to go for a black/stealthy look. I know it's a server so who cares what it looks like, and I would agree if it's hidden away lol! But it's going to be somewhat visible in my theater room so want it to look half decent too haha. A bit more digging and according to ASUS's website the Maximus VI Gene has 2x PCIE x16 slots, but on the board the second slot PCIE_X8_2? Maybe if you run SLI the second slot reverts to x8 but if it's just a single card in the second slot it is x16?










Actually should be alright, it'll run at x16 in the second slot providing it's only a single card. 










So all good hopefully


----------



## Hequaqua

Just need a little input.

I've owned the Meshify C back in the day. I am considering the Meshify S2 atm.

I was wanting some real honest feedback on this case if you own it.

I have a custom loop at the moment, but I feel cramped in it. The last two cases I've had I was unable to mount a RAD in the top of the case due to the larger fin heatsinks that on my motherboard(Gigaybyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7 WiFi. I currently have a Black Ice Nemesis rad mounted in the front. It's a standard thickness....like 29mm. I thought about mounting that in the top, and getting a thicker 240 to add to the loop in the front. I know the mounting is offset in the top of the S2 though.

I do have quite a bit of wiring to run. 3 SSD/2 HHD in addition to the other cables needed. 

Just about every case I've owned has had its +/-'s. If you could, could please list some of things things that you like, and what you don't like? Be brutally honest. 

Thanks ahead of time.

EDIT: I forgot to ask, will a 120mm fan mount pump/res bracket mount to the panel in between the front fans and the wiring cut-outs?


----------



## Shenhua

Hequaqua said:


> Just need a little input.
> 
> 
> 
> I've owned the Meshify C back in the day. I am considering the Meshify S2 atm.
> 
> 
> 
> I was wanting some real honest feedback on this case if you own it.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a custom loop at the moment, but I feel cramped in it. The last two cases I've had I was unable to mount a RAD in the top of the case due to the larger fin heatsinks that on my motherboard(Gigaybyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7 WiFi. I currently have a Black Ice Nemesis rad mounted in the front. It's a standard thickness....like 29mm. I thought about mounting that in the top, and getting a thicker 240 to add to the loop in the front. I know the mounting is offset in the top of the S2 though.
> 
> 
> 
> I do have quite a bit of wiring to run. 3 SSD/2 HHD in addition to the other cables needed.
> 
> 
> 
> Just about every case I've owned has had its +/-'s. If you could, could please list some of things things that you like, and what you don't like? Be brutally honest.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks ahead of time.
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I forgot to ask, will a 120mm fan mount pump/res bracket mount to the panel in between the front fans and the wiring cut-outs?


I think there's a lot of clearence, as long as you don't mount 140mm wide rads, because it's gonna hit on mobo and RAM, but 120mm leave a lot of space behind it.

I don't have the case tho, so this is just a guess.


----------



## Hequaqua

Shenhua said:


> I think there's a lot of clearence, as long as you don't mount 140mm wide rads, because it's gonna hit on mobo and RAM, but 120mm leave a lot of space behind it.
> 
> I don't have the case tho, so this is just a guess.


I will putting 120 wide in there. :thumb:


----------



## 331149

Gruff said:


> The ones that come with cases are 3 pin and rated at 68 CFM and have very little static pressure.
> 
> The ones I'm talking about are 4 pin PWM, have high static pressure and rated at 105 CFM, like I've repeatedly mentioned in my last two posts (and even posted a link to).


I dont run my fans at maximum rpm. Besides, they are the same design so what you are saying makes no sense really.


----------



## TeslaHUN

I could buy a second hand Focus G for fair price, but i wonder ; can i remove the front 5,25 bays and add a 3. fan on front somehow ? I can drill out screws if the bays if they are attached to chassis ,but i cant/dont want to use dremel .
Thanks


----------



## ronaldoz

For the Define S, would you place the 240 / 280 radiator at top or in front? It's for the CPU only. Also, where should I place other fans? 

Current:
- Radiator top (2 fans above it intake?)
- 1 x 140mm front intake
- 1 x bottom intake

Not sure if right for the Define S:
3 x top
2 x bottom
2 x front (probably 4 if doubling the front)
1 x end

(2x to double / sandwich the radiator)

What I thought:
2 x front intake
3 x top exhaust (not sure, the fans are on top)
2 x bottom intake
1 x end exhaust


----------



## god-kpi

ronaldoz said:


> For the Define S, would you place the 240 / 280 radiator at top or in front? It's for the CPU only. Also, where should I place other fans?
> 
> Current:
> - Radiator top (2 fans above it intake?)
> - 1 x 140mm front intake
> - 1 x bottom intake
> 
> Not sure if right for the Define S:
> 3 x top
> 2 x bottom
> 2 x front (probably 4 if doubling the front)
> 1 x end
> 
> (2x to double / sandwich the radiator)
> 
> What I thought:
> 2 x front intake
> 3 x top exhaust (not sure, the fans are on top)
> 2 x bottom intake
> 1 x end exhaust


I have three 120 mm fans (360 mm radiator at the top), 2x 140 mm (280 mm radiator) of the fan in front
https://ibb.co/kGc2VKc


----------



## songi

define r7 unveiling next week! what does everyone hope gets changed or added for this newest case?


----------



## speed_demon

More HDD tray capability. Doesnt have to be included with it, just having the options available would be great. And the ability to quiet things down further without impacting airflow.


----------



## Elrick

songi said:


> define r7 unveiling next week! what does everyone hope gets changed or added for this newest case?



Whereabouts, very curious about this future product line :thumb: .


----------



## jonny27

Already showing up at Fractal website's case lineup, but not at front page yet. Apparently it's now called just Define 7, and at first glance, doesn't seem that different from the R6, other than new grill designs, and a bit more open when fully disassembled.

Edit: scratch that "little changes", just noticed they added a (finally) XL variant


----------



## speed_demon

Awwww yeah! Looking mighty nice. And lots of choices this time around - Both in color & form factor. They made a good thing better. :thumb:










Looking like this might be the new king of home server cases. Room for 23 storage drives out of the box! And possibly room to add even more. What could I even do with that many drives? Download the whole internets probably.


----------



## THUMPer1

How is this new? It's the same boring case.


----------



## Ownedj00

THUMPer1 said:


> How is this new? It's the same boring case.


For this exact reason is why i swapped from fractal to another brand and will never be going back.


----------



## koniu777

Love fractal cases but holy **** they just keep coming out with the same stuff over and over again while lian li is releasing amazing out of the box thinking cases like 011 and the new lancool 2. Fractal grow some balls and and start releasing some interesting **** ffs

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## Abula

Are the R7 hdd cages the same as R6? if so is fractal selling singles?


----------



## speed_demon

Guys it's just a refinement. Evolutionary rather than revolutionary. And if you are against the idea then you are likely not the core buyer of this particular subset of fractal cases. This is the most minimalist & conservative of their offerings. As in they have a great many other varying choices that are not minimalist or conservative. 

For those that don't want a refined minimalist case there are literally 5 other lines of cases each with multiple different options & form factors to choose from.


----------



## The Pook

Ownedj00 said:


> For this exact reason is why i swapped from fractal to another brand and will never be going back.



you swapped a Fractal case for some other case because they release too many cases ....... because buying a case from x manufacturer makes you obligated to buy every minor retooling that gets released? 






not really following the logic lol


----------



## Mikecdm

I wish they'd update some of the other lines or the other chasis that aren't as big. Like the define c, nano, micro whatever those were called.


----------



## The Pook

Mikecdm said:


> I wish they'd update some of the other lines or the other chasis that aren't as big. Like the define c, nano, micro whatever those were called.



not sure what features you're looking for that they don't already have but Meshify C? it's getting sort of old but it's not really missing anything that most people need/want. 

it's a solid enough case so long as you don't have a two foot long GPU and/or want to run a 60mm thick front radiator or something silly.


----------



## Mikecdm

I don't like the way the top of the case looks on any of them. That magnetic filter that sits on the top of that big cutout piece. I'd like an update there. Other than that, everything else is likely fine.


----------



## The Pook

ah, yeah you're SOL there then lol

if it's any consolation it's not magnetic but that doesn't help if you don't like the look of it. it's attached to a button on the back. 

it's mostly to make installing a radiator easier so it's probably not going anywhere any time soon.


----------



## Shenhua

Meshify C. The SSD tray behind chipset is badly placed, since SSDs there get 10-20°C temps increase.
You can make the meshify C slightly longer and add holes for 2 HDD mounting spots in vertical not horizontal like in define S cases behind mobo, and also, re-adapt the bottom for installing HDD and SSD directly on the floor. Also you can make it slightly taller to fit 3x140mm in the front, and before you say it's gonna be to big for a compact ATX, think again. You would have a case that instead of 45cm Hx40.5cm L it would be 46,5cm H x 44/45cm L (L stands for length or depth)

The perforated pattern in this new r7 on the top of the PSU, it's dumb. It has a lot of material, because they focused again on looks over functionality. Even with that, if they would've made it wider, it would be much better even with that pattern. In meshify C, the current pattern can be extended a bit both on the sides, and front. You still hide the ugly part, but you don't render the front inferior fan useless. Phanteks p400a it's the perfect example of what I'm saying. Add 0.5-1cm at the back for cable management since the old route it's gonna be blocked by HDD.

Optional solid top sold separately with pins or magnets, like it used to be in the define S, would be nice for those of us that with airlfow builds optimised for silence, and don't buy into the "silent cases" nonsense.

Don't add any fans, and sell case for 100bucks. And before you tell me, "well Joe, cases without fans don't sell". If it's marketed the right way, ppl will buy it like hot cakes, especially enthusiasts, and it will receive 100% positive reviews if you recommend it to use with 3 front fans and 1 exhaust at the rear. Or 360+280 for liquid cooling.

Also. Fractal, you really need to go visit corsair to teach you how to make a front filter, because you keep screwing up. *** is that thing in the define r7? It's like we are in 2010 back again. 70% plastic/30% filter.


----------



## Bi5h0p

Still waiting for new Define Nano S.
Give some love for itx ...


----------



## songi

I think I still prefer the r6 to the new define 7 :x the little airflow cutout designs in the top and around the case just don't do it for me visually and small nitpick but the chrome looking feet on the r6 and previous models look way better than the new ones too


----------



## pewpewlazer

Anyone order a Define 7 XL yet? It's a bit large for my tastes, but the space for radiators is mighty tempting. Looks like you should be able to fit a push/pull rad fan setup at the top inside the case, which would be nice (with my Define S2 I just have the top pull fans sitting externally on top of the rad bracket). Possibly room for a beefy 420 or 480 Nemesis GTX (or other similarly thick rad) in push/pull in the front as well. 

My only concern is that the user manual doesn't explicitly show a 420 top + 420 front radiator configuration, which is what I'd like to run. They do show a 480 top + 420 front, so I don't see why it wouldn't work, but at $210 I don't want to find out the hard way.


----------



## z0ki

I just got my R6 and now the R7 XL is out would be perfect for my unRaid server! Ah well once I need more drives i'll upgrade and sell this one haha.

For those Define R6 owners. I am noticing my reset switch on the case does not work? The jumper cables are all correct just the reset button doesn't work and there is no HDD led light? Only just notice this now


----------



## man from atlantis

To me FD still hasn't bested the S2 meshify yet.


----------



## JackCY

I don't like the Meshify etc. much compared to Define, the front door helps quite a bit in reducing fan noise and can easily be opened or removed if one must have unrestricted airflow.

Define 7 is nice to me but the price is getting higher and higher with each refresh.

I don't like the Lancool2 so far, 2 x 140 mm front only, low CPU cooler clearance, restrictive intake design, gamery flashy look, if they even make a non glass version at all. Plenty cases like that around these days. 011 is tiny clearance wise, under 155mm CPU cooler clearance, that's a damn joke. It's like a cool looking fat pig only suitable for water cooling. The amount of glass in cases these days to me is off-putting as it's an extra cost for something that reduces function and durability.

Where as the Define series so far is usually rather clean simple design, no glass unless one wants the glass option, plenty space inside to fit parts and has dust filters. Clearances not a problem and they now made it 185 mm for CPU cooler which truly should fit even the tallest ones that exist without any worries of counting how many millimeters one has left.


----------



## Alan G

I have as question about the Define R6/R7 fan hub. I'll be doing an update to my main workstation as it's over five years old now and I need to add more RAM which I cannot do as DDR3 sticks are really hard to find. I'll move up to an R6 as the cost is less than the R7. I use this PC for photo editing and general work. It sits on my desktop and needs to be totally quiet; the pre-installed Fractal fans are fine. I looked at the Fractal direction sheet and they show the three fans connecting to the hub and the CPU fan as well as there is a connector from the hub to the CPU fan control on the MoBo. 

Is this the correct approach with this case? The R5 has a separate three position switch to control the two case fans via voltage conotrol. I have never needed to run those fans on anything other than the lowest setting. I'm just curious as this is a different approach with the newer cases.

TIA


----------



## The Pook

Alan G said:


> I have as question about the Define R6/R7 fan hub. I'll be doing an update to my main workstation as it's over five years old now and I need to add more RAM which I cannot do as DDR3 sticks are really hard to find. I'll move up to an R6 as the cost is less than the R7. I use this PC for photo editing and general work. It sits on my desktop and needs to be totally quiet; the pre-installed Fractal fans are fine. I looked at the Fractal direction sheet and they show the three fans connecting to the hub and the CPU fan as well as there is a connector from the hub to the CPU fan control on the MoBo.
> 
> Is this the correct approach with this case? The R5 has a separate three position switch to control the two case fans via voltage conotrol. I have never needed to run those fans on anything other than the lowest setting. I'm just curious as this is a different approach with the newer cases.
> 
> TIA



not sure what you're asking, the fan controller is just a fan controller. 

if you want all your fans to run at 5v or 7v or 12v simultaneously then you hook all your fans to the fan controller and you're done. you can run a cable to your motherboard from the fan hub and control the fan controller through your motherboard via PWM or you can hook it up to the case if it has a dedicated button and you want to control it that way. 

if you want to be able to set your CPU fan @ 12v but your intake case fans @ 7v and your rear exhaust fan @ 5v or anything other than all of them at the same speed then you need to put each fan you want to control differently on a separate channel, you can't put all of them on the fan controller.


----------



## 331149

Alan G said:


> I have as question about the Define R6/R7 fan hub. I'll be doing an update to my main workstation as it's over five years old now and I need to add more RAM which I cannot do as DDR3 sticks are really hard to find. I'll move up to an R6 as the cost is less than the R7. I use this PC for photo editing and general work. It sits on my desktop and needs to be totally quiet; the pre-installed Fractal fans are fine. I looked at the Fractal direction sheet and they show the three fans connecting to the hub and the CPU fan as well as there is a connector from the hub to the CPU fan control on the MoBo.
> 
> Is this the correct approach with this case? The R5 has a separate three position switch to control the two case fans via voltage conotrol. I have never needed to run those fans on anything other than the lowest setting. I'm just curious as this is a different approach with the newer cases.
> 
> TIA


I'm surprised they are still using these to be honest. Every single motherboard can control fans automatically, yes even with 3 pin. Every fan connector on the motherboard can power 2-3 fans easily.


----------



## speed_demon

But what happens when you have 38mm Deltas or 38mm Sunons. You would fry that little 3 pin header trying to power two of those beasts at once. Not to mention your neighbors would be looking overhead for a jet fighter taking off. 

I think my OG Delta is spec'd for something like 1.8A @ 12V. I've never run it on anything besides a dedicated molex.


----------



## 331149

speed_demon said:


> But what happens when you have 38mm Deltas or 38mm Sunons. You would fry that little 3 pin header trying to power two of those beasts at once. Not to mention your neighbors would be looking overhead for a jet fighter taking off.
> 
> I think my OG Delta is spec'd for something like 1.8A @ 12V. I've never run it on anything besides a dedicated molex.


Why would you want a Delta though? I get it if it's a server that's tucked away, but a pc right next to you? Nah. I seriously doubt anyone is that dumb to be honest


----------



## speed_demon

Pshhh. This is me playing battlefield enjoying my ridiculous Deltas.










I had them in a server that sat in a corner of a storage room. And at least one was hard modded with a resistor to run at 7V to tone things down a bit. Ran them off a molex -> 3 pin adapter because the motherboard didn't like powering them.

Apparently they go up to 4.8 Amp. And now I want one for fun & giggles.


----------



## Elrick

speed_demon said:


> Apparently they go up to 4.8 Amp. And now I want one for fun & giggles.


Have always kept all my Deltas which I've collected for the last 15 years.

ALL of them require connection straight to the power supplies and are running at full speed. There is no wimping out on the full force of Deltas because they're made to push air hard.

And OCN central, loves everything that is really fast that includes all quality fans :thumb: .


----------



## Qu1ckset

songi said:


> I think I still prefer the r6 to the new define 7 :x the little airflow cutout designs in the top and around the case just don't do it for me visually and small nitpick but the chrome looking feet on the r6 and previous models look way better than the new ones too


Feel the same way about my R6


----------



## ronaldoz

god-kpi said:


> I have three 120 mm fans (360 mm radiator at the top), 2x 140 mm (280 mm radiator) of the fan in front
> https://ibb.co/kGc2VKc


Thanks! I noticed I got a R5, but I am using almost the same as you do. But I got the radiator in the front (2 x 140) and 2 x 140 at the top at the moment. I gonna push / pull the front to have better intake. So gonna get 2 x 140 more. I also have 1 x 120 at the back and 1 x 120 at the bottom.


----------



## NewType88

Think about all of those h200 sales that could of been FD's s2 meshify NANO !

3pcie slot and removable psu shroud. Cha-ching !


----------



## function9

Just ordered a Meshify C, was wondering if anyone has seen comparisons done between the stock foam filter and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-...3SDTAWP5EJ5&psc=1&refRID=2VATS2QXS3SDTAWP5EJ5 https://www.demcifilter.com/fractal-design-meshify-c-front-filter
I understand any filter will be somewhat restrictive, but the mesh filter looks like it would be much less than the foam. I have seen people do comparisons with the foam and no foam, just wondering how a mesh filter would stack up.


----------



## ronaldoz

Some photo's of my case - Define -R5 I recently bought (the package was only case / mobo / CPU / CPU cooler. After, I changed the radiator from the top to the front, and also delid the CPU. The other parts are bought seperately. Also the window is changed. Originally it has a small window. I like the case for beeing really big, I did not expected it when I bought it. Awesome case it is. 

(Sorry, the photo's are pretty dark, the photo's are with window)


----------



## songi

anyone know if it's possible to peel off the the anodized aluminum on the front of the define r6? it feels like it's just a layer glued on to the rest of the door but i can't really tell


----------



## Elrick

songi said:


> anyone know if it's possible to peel off the the anodized aluminum on the front of the define r6? it feels like it's just a layer glued on to the rest of the door but i can't really tell



Wouldn't it be far simpler to remove the front door altogether?

Have done that with my R5s and two R6s. The Air Flow is far better for the whole system, inside those cases.

Who thought it was a great idea to restrict air flow for high end air cooling? That Company Goon, needs to be disembowelled for such stupidity.


----------



## The Pook

Fractal Era launched:










https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/era/era-itx/silver-white-oak/

not in the market for an SFF case but it looks pretty sweet, but kinda unsure about the wood top panel though :laughings


----------



## Shenhua

The Pook said:


> Fractal Era launched:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/era/era-itx/silver-white-oak/
> 
> 
> 
> not in the market for an SFF case but it looks pretty sweet, but kinda unsure about the wood top panel though :laughings


Guess what. Every1 received a sample, but optimum tech guy didn't. That with the design should tell you what thermals you can expect from it.


----------



## GeneO

Looks pretty fugly


----------



## Elrick

Shenhua said:


> Guess what. Every1 received a sample, but optimum tech guy didn't. That with the design should tell you what thermals you can expect from it.



You can actually remove that top plate, hence making it better for any heat dissipation.

Don't understand that in 2020 companies seem obsessed with placing a closed top cover on their PC cases to restrict heat.

Why not do heat vents like on the their previous R6 series? Looks perfect when done in plastic and it helps get rid of all the heat trapped inside their case.


----------



## THUMPer1

Elrick said:


> You can actually remove that top plate, hence making it better for any heat dissipation.
> 
> Don't understand that in 2020 companies seem obsessed with placing a closed top cover on their PC cases to restrict heat.
> 
> Why not do heat vents like on the their previous R6 series? Looks perfect when done in plastic and it helps get rid of all the heat trapped inside their case.


It has a vented top for exhaust, but in order to attach it to the case (magnets) it looks like you have to have the filter installed. So you are filtering your exhaust air. Creating a restriction... Can anyone confirm this??


----------



## speed_demon

The Pook said:


> Fractal Era launched:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/era/era-itx/silver-white-oak/
> 
> not in the market for an SFF case but it looks pretty sweet, but kinda unsure about the wood top panel though :laughings


Sexy case. And to think I just sold all my ITX stuff.


----------



## function9

I wonder if the plastic front bezel on the meshify cases could be redone in a nice wood. That would look wicked.


----------



## The Pook

function9 said:


> I wonder if the plastic front bezel on the meshify cases could be redone in a nice wood. That would look wicked.












you'd ruin the whole point of the mesh but you _could_.


----------



## kgtuning

Count me in. From my Node 202 to Define 7


----------



## lightsout

Not really digging the era. Just looks like a mini tower with a little curves. Plus thermals don't seem great.

Towers are pretty boring, especially for SFF.


----------



## Skylinestar

Poor thermals. Is the new case designed for ambient temperature of 5c?


----------



## JackCY

The Era, yeah saw a review. Design, don't care, it's a case, it's ok to me. Functionality wise, I would say poor especially when it comes to ventilation and air cooler support.
It's OK for tiny builds with low-mid power consumer hardware but anything powerful either doesn't fit or it toasts.

The GPU space is stupidly small.

I don't know who designs all these computer cases but to me it seems that they are mostly designed about aesthetics rather than function. It has it's customers, sure but it could have been better and fit gear for more people.
L1T said pretty much the same when it comes to GPU support.

Personally not sure I'm buying another case unless I need it quick. Better off just making on on my own with all the vents I want without stupid grills and space for everything to fit. In US this is pretty much a no-brainer due to easy access to hardware to build from.

This Era case is essentially a mini hotbox. Looks cool, runs hot.


Define and Meshify, ok, take a dremel and fix them. The rest? Probably would not buy.


----------



## Elrick

lightsout said:


> Not really digging the era. Just looks like a mini tower with a little curves. Plus thermals don't seem great.
> 
> Towers are pretty boring, especially for SFF.


Totally agree.

For anything super small, the shapes are boundless yet these huge companies still stay with the rectangular box. Didn't they see Apple design a cylinder case but no one else jumped on board?

Sometimes they always trump out (not a pun) the old and splash some colour over it then make believe it's something unique. Not really, it's the same ole, same ole and most people are bored to death of it.

Suspect someone might buy it then dremel the hell out of it to really make something unique and functional. Lets hear it for the creatives that can do what the companies have always failed at.


----------



## Shenhua

Elrick said:


> Totally agree.
> 
> For anything super small, the shapes are boundless yet these huge companies still stay with the rectangular box. Didn't they see Apple design a cylinder case but no one else jumped on board?


Actually for 30x33x20 could work exceptionally well, but nobody does it. PSU on top, the old place. And a drive bay in front of it. Front 2x140 with mesh. ITX motherboard and instead of slots for the GPU, there should be one, with a slider. And about 5 cm after the mobo ends. The GPU, instead of the anemic thin fans manufacturers use, would wear 2x120mm reversed, extracting heat from it, and exhausting it bellow.
It's not the smallest ITX, but it could fit behemoth air coolers, and could have 45x45x20 (or bigger) cooling potential.

For some reason nobody figured it out, even some companies that brought big ITX with bad thermals.


----------



## LazarusIV

kgtuning said:


> Count me in. From my Node 202 to Define 7


I can't wait to see your build in here... very slight difference in volume, eh? 

This case is just begging for watercooling... :devil::devil:


----------



## Multiplectic

Regarding the Era, HW Canucks' review is worth the watch: 




All the mesh filtering is choking it, apparently.


----------



## Shenhua

Multiplectic said:


> Regarding the Era, HW Canucks' review is worth the watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYZ_iMzozZ0
> 
> 
> 
> All the mesh filtering is choking it, apparently.


Water. Wet. What..... NoT a surprise!...
I'm pretty sure there's something I'm missing, but i wonder how is there so much incompetent ppl in these jobs, and I'm an avg joe driver.

It's a 200bucks for 200w max (otherwise you have a vacuum cleaner) built? That's what? 3600 +1650 super.

Here's how you fix the case, fractal!!! Tell ppl to run 120mm fans zip tied to the GPU radiator extracting air from it, not pushing, and mount either intakes, or AIO as an intake, on the top. Also remove the filter or panel from underneath and raise the case 1cm more.
That's how you fix it.

Damn my bad, i forgot there's a PSU breathing inside aswell..... well s***, you can always turn the fan the opposite way, or throw the case into the garbage bin, fire the design team, hire a new one (possibly me aswell), and go back to the drawing board.....


----------



## kgtuning

LazarusIV said:


> kgtuning said:
> 
> 
> 
> Count me in. From my Node 202 to Define 7
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait to see your build in here... very slight difference in volume, eh? /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif
> 
> This case is just begging for watercooling... /forum/images/smilies/devil.gif/forum/images/smilies/devil.gif
Click to expand...

Huge difference in size. It’s up and running but all my cables were for the Node 202 and custom made so I need to spend a bit of time making some new cables until i can get a new psu.


----------



## LazarusIV

kgtuning said:


> Huge difference in size. It’s up and running but all my cables were for the Node 202 and custom made so I need to spend a bit of time making some new cables until i can get a new psu.


Oh dude, I forgot about that! Ah well, having a nice set of custom cables is worth the wait... Have you figured out what mobo you're getting yet?

Most importantly, how do you like it so far? Does it meet or exceed your expectations?


----------



## kgtuning

LazarusIV said:


> kgtuning said:
> 
> 
> 
> Huge difference in size. Itâ€™️s up and running but all my cables were for the Node 202 and custom made so I need to spend a bit of time making some new cables until i can get a new psu.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dude, I forgot about that! Ah well, having a nice set of custom cables is worth the wait... Have you figured out what mobo you're getting yet?
> 
> Most importantly, how do you like it so far? Does it meet or exceed your expectations?
Click to expand...

I think Aorus master. I think I really like it. As far as the Define 7... pretty awesome case. Very happy so far.


----------



## Elrick

kgtuning said:


> I think Aorus master. I think I really like it. As far as the Define 7... pretty awesome case. Very happy so far.



Already put an order in for Define 7 simply because I like it's main air flow within their design.

Nothing has really changed here but I like their filter access and removal plus their easy removal of the front door panel.

Also had my eye on the *Phanteks Enthoo Evolv X DRGB Tempered Glass ATX Galaxy Silver *here in Convict Town but the lower cost of the Define 7 won overall.


----------



## kgtuning

Elrick said:


> kgtuning said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think Aorus master. I think I really like it. As far as the Define 7... pretty awesome case. Very happy so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already put an order in for Define 7 simply because I like it's main air flow within their design.
> 
> Nothing has really changed here but I like their filter access and removal plus their easy removal of the front door panel.
> 
> Also had my eye on the *Phanteks Enthoo Evolv X DRGB Tempered Glass ATX Galaxy Silver *here in Convict Town but the lower cost of the Define 7 won overall.
Click to expand...

Oh man, the Define 7 is super simple to remove panels. I like how the top frame panel comes off for building. Both side panels snap on and off nice and firm. The extra vented top panel is much better then i thought it would be.


----------



## Elrick

kgtuning said:


> The extra vented top panel is much better then i thought it would be.



Thank you for allaying my fear on buying this new model case. Much appreciated :thumb: .


----------



## kgtuning

Elrick said:


> kgtuning said:
> 
> 
> 
> The extra vented top panel is much better then i thought it would be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for allaying my fear on buying this new model case. Much appreciated /forum/images/smilies/thumb.gif .
Click to expand...

Glad i could help. Now I just can’t wait to fill it up with new parts.


----------



## Bad5ector

Hey gang, any chance one of you fine folks have a line on a top HDD cage for a Define R4?

Part number FD-SP-DEF-R4-HDD-TOP. Lost mine during a move years ago and really want to move my file server into this case but it won't be much good to me with only the bottom HDD tray. Not expecting miracles but doesn't hurt to ask


----------



## GeneO

Bad5ector said:


> Hey gang, any chance one of you fine folks have a line on a top HDD cage for a Define R4?
> 
> Part number FD-SP-DEF-R4-HDD-TOP. Lost mine during a move years ago and really want to move my file server into this case but it won't be much good to me with only the bottom HDD tray. Not expecting miracles but doesn't hurt to ask


Unfortunately I threw mine out on a move last August or I would have given it to you. Good luck.


----------



## Bad5ector

@GeneO Another one bites the dust due to a move eh? haha. Thanks though


----------



## 331149

z0ki said:


> What kind of smell? Because I've noticed a sort of plastic/burning smell every since I got this case lol. I also noticed they move next to NO air! Even the rear fan i put a peice of paper against it and it barely moves and it's running at full speed lol.


Yep burnt plastic sounds about right. I let them run for over a week and they were still stinking up the place. Usually the smell goes away within a day or two with any other fan, but not the Fractal ones.


----------



## Starbuck5000

Question for Meshify C owners who mounted a 120 fan in the base of the case to blow air up and towards the GPU.

Did you notice a difference and if no how much?
Did you find try putting taller feet on the case to help that fan be more effective?

I've just tried putting a fan in the bottom (EK Vardar 120) but it doesn't seem to have helped all that much, playing games my GTX 1080 still get fairly toasty.


----------



## Elrick

TheBDK said:


> Yep burnt plastic sounds about right. I let them run for over a week and they were still stinking up the place. Usually the smell goes away within a day or two with any other fan, but not the Fractal ones.



Chose three of these;

https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37639/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140mm-pwm-fan-high-speed-edition

Before even getting my Fractal 7 which is still being shot around this continent as we speak. Amazing that now all goods are taking the scenic route here in Convict Town, so we all have to wait perhaps a MONTH, when anything is bought here within our own country.

Welcome to 3RD World Existence where paying heaps gets you nothing more than an empty wallet for no reason whatsoever. Maybe they are treating all purchases as Corona Virus suspects, that need to be in quarantine for two to three weeks before finally being delivered to their addresses.


----------



## battlenut

I just purchased a Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Black Brushed, and the whole front of the case was busted off. Kinda disappointed these cases are gorgeous.


----------



## dwolvin

Oof, where from? Check if you can claim shipping damage.


----------



## 414347

I had similar damage with one of Cooler Master front panel, FedEx was at fault because when the box arrived it looked horrible. Get in touch with whomever you got it from, they should replace either whole case or front with expedite shipping free to you, unless your box arrived in good condition then I would suspect this could have been broken prior to packing, might be Fractal issue.


----------



## lb_felipe

Does this apply to 7 too?

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1140211-arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-does-not-fit-into-my-case/

If so, then is not it a good idea using Define 7 with Liquid Freezer II and MEG X570 UNIFY?


----------



## 414347

So whats the deal with HDD trays for R6, does Fractal still makes them, I'm not asking for retailers that sell them but specifically if fractal still makes them. I was strongly considering R6 but from what I hear fractal apparently not making these tray any more, unless that's a rumour. 
Thanks


----------



## Falkentyne

lb_felipe said:


> Does this apply to 7 too?
> 
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1140211-arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-does-not-fit-into-my-case/
> 
> If so, then is not it a good idea using Define 7 with Liquid Freezer II and MEG X570 UNIFY?


That 6 was a mid tower, right?

7 XL has enough room. No idea about the non XL though. You also have room for the rad in the bottom and front.
*Edit* just watched a video where someone had the 360 rad mounted at the top (seemed to be the same thickness as the Arctic II), with fans on -both- sides (push pull). and there was RAM clearance.


----------



## Falkentyne

Count me in. Got my 7 XL.


----------



## broodro0ster

I like the how the R7 seems easier to work in. But thermals aren't really better than the R6. 
I also like the honey comb mesh near the rear fan better than the current style ventilation.
I hope they make a Meshify version with the R7 chassis. That might be a nice upgrade for me. I use my R6 in the open layout since I have 2x 360 rads in my case, but the bottom is really hard to work in because the moveable panel closes it. And the panel can only be put in place before you attach the front radiator.

The R7 XL has place for dual loops, but it's really unfortunate that the basement isn't any bigger. I really wanted to see a vertical PSU there and the option for another radiator. Something like Lian Li V3000.


----------



## 414347

I was always wondering about Fractal Customer Support as I have heard mixed reviews. I didn't expect either current or past users to know answer to my question, but I emailed Fractal support # of times, to date nothing, that is not very promising, customer support is important as much as the product itself. I think I pass of their cases and move on


----------



## Falkentyne

lb_felipe said:


> Does this apply to 7 too?
> 
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1140211-arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-does-not-fit-into-my-case/
> 
> If so, then is not it a good idea using Define 7 with Liquid Freezer II and MEG X570 UNIFY?


27:00 in this video gives the exact dimensions of the XL vs the regular one. The XL has much more top space for a thicker radiator. It may have room for a 60mm thick rad at the top+fans on the XL.


----------



## Scoty

I have a Define S2 and i like this Case but i get high temps with my setup (see signature). I use the 3 stock fans and i have set to 700rpm and with Prime95 small FFT i get 82 degrees and with CB20 i get 76 degrees. How can i make better temps with this Case? On the Top panel i use only the filter.


----------



## Elrick

*Fractal Design Flex VRC-25 PCIe Riser Cable Kit...*

Just a question here for the Fractal Fanatics;

Looking to use an extension PCIe cable inside my Fractal 7 Case but there is only one optin being Fractal Design Flex VRC-25 PCIe Riser Cable Kit and nothing else.

It says it's designed for the Fractal 6 series yet I have their latest model. Am I stuck in using their specified older design or can I use one of these;

https://www.pccasegear.com/products...line-pcie-x16-riser-cable-90deg-adapter-220mm

or this one;

https://www.pccasegear.com/products...line-pcie-x16-riser-cable-90deg-adapter-600mm

I know they're for Phantek cases but can they be reused inside of a Fractal 7 case instead?


----------



## Gunfire

Meshify C Mini build, coming from the Define Mini C with the stock FD fans. I thought it was quiet.

But with all the mesh and filling this case with these beautiful Beige fans this is silent at idle and almost the same while gaming!

Still tweaking fan curves and OC's so we'll see how cool it will stay.


----------



## Gilles3000

Elrick said:


> Just a question here for the Fractal Fanatics;
> 
> Looking to use an extension PCIe cable inside my Fractal 7 Case but there is only one optin being Fractal Design Flex VRC-25 PCIe Riser Cable Kit and nothing else.


On the product page for the VRC-25 it says:


> • Compatible with Define 7, Define R6, Define S2, Define S2 Vision, Meshify S2 and Vector RS


So I would go with that one.

The Phanteks ones would probably work as well, but the mounting hardware might not line up.


----------



## Elrick

Gilles3000 said:


> On the product page for the VRC-25 it says:
> 
> So I would go with that one.
> 
> The Phanteks ones would probably work as well, but the mounting hardware might not line up.



Yep, just put in an order for the *FD-ACC-FLEX-VRC-25-BK* at PCCG.

Thank you for clearing that up for me.


----------



## jjjc_93

Has been a long time since I've made a post on OCN but thought I'd drop in with my new Define 7 build. Has been a fair few years since I built a system that wasn't just a basic web browser so this was a lot of fun to get back to.

The case is pretty great and I don't really have any complaints. In hindsight perhaps the little bit of extra space from the XL version would have been better with the big rads but I do prefer a compact look. The mounting offset for top radiators is awesome and meant I could space the 360mm radiator out adequately from the motherboard and tall ram. One slight caveat to that is I had to remove 2 of the mounting clips for the glass sidepanel to get the radiator in, but it is still secure enough. 

The front 360 radiator also does not quite line up with all of the mounting holes for the top screws so I had to do without some. The radiator is still very secure but it would be more of a problem if I wanted to run a push/pull config (not a problem as I don't have the space for it anyway  ). I will try and get some extra pics of that when I'm home again if people want to see. 

I did also originally want to have the fittings for the front radiator at the top of the case but there was no way for fittings to clear between both radiators when it was mounted. I think it turned out alright anyway. 

For the vertical GPU mount I just chose to reuse a coolermaster kit I had lying around, the included riser cable I had wasn't long enough to reach the case mounts and I don't mind it sitting back as it does anyway. 

Specs:
XE360 front radiator
PE360 top radiator
EK 300mm D5/Res combo
EK Supremacy CPU / EK Vector Strix GPU
6x CM MF120R fans 
9700KF / Z390-E Strix / 2070Super Strix / 16gb Trident 3600c16 / 1TB nvme + 500gb ssd / AX1200i


----------



## vabellabel

*Is this ok?*

Im running out of space in my define S. Therefore I moved my radiator front fans to the front panel area (see attached).

This is ok right? Will this affect airflow, temperature etc..? Please let me know! Thank you!


----------



## Valka814

What can generate noise here?
3x Noctua NF-A14 have much more noise with the same rpm than 2x cheap SilentiumPC Sigma PRO at the buttum. Tried to touch, push parts in the case, same noise.
Around 35% (less than 600rpm), the Noctuas audiable, but dont have that motorish, rezonance sound.
Around 40-45% I start to hear that noise.
None of them are faulty, stopped them individually.


----------



## JackCY

If the noise is coming from the fans, well then it's the damn Noctua fans, they are not always the hype people wish them to be. I would cut out all the unnecessary mounting metal in front of the fans. All fans hate having restrictions in front of them and will make airflow noise around these obstacles.


----------



## Dollar

Valka814 said:


> What can generate noise here?
> 3x Noctua NF-A14 have much more noise with the same rpm than 2x cheap SilentiumPC Sigma PRO at the buttum. Tried to touch, push parts in the case, same noise.
> Around 35% (less than 600rpm), the Noctuas audiable, but dont have that motorish, rezonance sound.
> Around 40-45% I start to hear that noise.
> None of them are faulty, stopped them individually.



It's probably the 120mm fan mounts that your 140mm fans are forced to deal with because case manufacturers wont just choose ONE fan size and make a proper case.


----------



## Gilles3000

vabellabel said:


> Im running out of space in my define S. Therefore I moved my radiator front fans to the front panel area (see attached).
> 
> This is ok right? Will this affect airflow, temperature etc..? Please let me know! Thank you!


There's nothing attached...


----------



## Multiplectic

Probably if you space out the fans from the case mounting rails you could lower the noise.


----------



## kgtuning

I'm wondering if anyone with a Define 7 is running a 420 rad in the top of the case? I want to use a slim 420 on the top and a 280 in the front. I'd like to keep using my 140mm EK vardars. I see the fit would be tight but want to know if others have tried or just gone with two 360 rads. Thoughts?


----------



## pewpewlazer

Finally transplanted my build into the Define 7 XL I bought when it came out. Mega sized cases never really appealed to me, but stuffing a 420+280 rad in an R6/S2 wasn't exactly doing the trick either. I figured I had to join the giants to get enough radiator space to quietly cool a high end build and still have good water temps.

I had a 420 GTS in my Fractal S2 build, and a 420 GTS X-Flow I regrettably purchased for my original Fractal R6 build, so I figured I'd start by trying to jam both of those in there and see how much space it really has before buying anything else. Push/pull fan setup, of course. Just to make things interesting, I had to use these weirdo sized 27mm thick Arctic P14 PWM fans.

Well, IT FITS!!! ...barely. The tube running from the top rad down to the bottom (inlet to front rad) is pretty much sandwiched by the fan on the front rad. One millimeter less room and it would not have fit. If anyone is wondering, the clearance between the front rad fan and the top rad fan is 21mm. So with normal 25mm thick fans, you're looking at 25mm worth of clearance with a Nemesis GTS rad, so a GTX _SHOULD_ fit with normal fans in push/pull (but don't hold me to that). It looks like a GTX (push/pull) should fit up top as well, even with my weirdo fans, but it looks mighty close with the ATX 12v cables. Definitely going to be a motherboard dependent thing (push/pull GTX up top would prevent a push/pull GTX from fitting up front at the same time). 

Temps so far... ok I guess. After reassembly, I fired up The Division 2 since it results in a ~450w heat load. With a 37*C water temp set point, this put my 420 GTS + 280 GTX (semi-push/pull on both) Fractal S2 build at 1000-1100 RPM fan speed. With the 7 XL build, I was able to get a 32*C set point at ~900 RPM. 
VERY nice. BUT, my GPU temps were pretty bad. Previously I had seen my GPU run around 10*C above water temp, worst case 12*C. Now? It was an easy 14*C above water temp. Started messing around with pump speed, and found a 2*C decrease in GPU temp by speeding that up. While that helped GPU temps, it hurt water temps, and now I was hitting 1100 RPM @ 32*C water temp. Oh well. Still quite a bit better than before, but I'm still not happy. I want low 40s load temps @ 380w power limit on my GPU with <1000 RPM fans.

Some more pics of the fitment in the imgur album below, as well as a mockup showing clearance with a 420 front rad and a 240 on the bottom. Definitely not going that route any time soon, especially not with my uber long EVGA 1600 T2 power supply down there. Maybe Fractal will get with the times and build a case with a PSU chamber behind the mobo tray like Lian Li... The Define 7 XXL! With space for 3x 420 rads! (I can dream, right?). Frankly if I wasn't already overly invested in the 140mm fan world, I would have gone with the PC-O11D XL hands down. But the thought of buying 3x 360 rads and 18x 120mm fans didn't get me very excited.

https://imgur.com/a/B4wtHXl


----------



## Niju

Also moved to a Define 7 XL from an O11D. Great case to work with.


----------



## Shenhua

Meshify C users that to improve temps or noise. The foam in the front filter it's quite restrictive. I was just curious what it would do for me.....
5°C + for CPU, 4°C for the RAM, 3-4°C for GPU.

Your results may vary. Also, make sure to clean the foam inside, even if your front filter looks clean. It stops, not a lot, but ALL dust, so it gets pretty damn dirty faster than a normal filter.

Your results may vary.


----------



## Norse

Big ole Fractal design XL R2, gonna be grabbing a alphacool eisbaer 240 "soon" for it


----------



## raggazam

My baby


----------



## 414347

raggazam said:


> My baby


O Wow! you chosen perfect colours and is so neatly clean, great pics


----------



## Shenhua

Looks clean and nit.


----------



## Fractal Design

Any Node 202/304/605/804 owners around who'd care to share their mind on what they'd like to see in the next Node case?

If so, some of you guys might be interested to check out this new program we're doing next month: https://bit.ly/3fWxgVf

Just figured I'd pass the word along.


----------



## Gilles3000

@Fractal Design Not an owner, so I won't fill in the from.

But personally I'd like to to see is a version or successor of the 202 with the gpu cooler facing the same way as the CPU so that the case can lay flat without choking airflow to either the GPU or CPU.


----------



## opt33

Fractal Design said:


> Any Node 202/304/605/804 owners around who'd care to share their mind on what they'd like to see in the next Node case?
> 
> If so, some of you guys might be interested to check out this new program we're doing next month: https://bit.ly/3fWxgVf
> 
> Just figured I'd pass the word along.


not node case, but do have feedback for next Fractal design ?R8 case, would be nice to have 55+mm top clearance like older R5 for rad(30mm) + fan (25mm)...instead of 36mm top clearance like R6/R7 which means rad/fans hangs over or hits ram, limiting ram options in addition to being annoying to work on. R5-7 all ok for front only rad, but for those wanting front/top rads, R5 with older features or R6/R7 lacking 20-25mm top clearance.


----------



## rluker5

Hi, I picked up my first Fractal case - a Design R4 back in 2013. It was great for sli and everything I could think of tossing in there. But I don't sli anymore and while the R4 is still good, the case is pretty big. So I just downsized to a Define C. It fits everything I want, is still quiet and gives me more space outside the case.

I'm not a big rgb fan so I'm glad I can pick up an attractive, subdued case that is well made and can accommodate higher performance hardware. I also have a Core 500 that fades away nicely on a shelf next to my projector. Also I was impressed when I broke the front headphone jack on my R4 a while back and found I could order a replacement from Fractal for a reasonable price.

Here's the pics:


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone tell me if I can fit a 420mm radiator in the front of the Meshify C?


----------



## Gilles3000

KaRLiToS said:


> Can someone tell me if I can fit a 420mm radiator in the front of the Meshify C?


Don't think so. The frame is 440mm tall, and even the shortest of 420mm radiators are 450mm long.

I guess you could cut a hole in the bottom for the end tank to fit trough to make it fit.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Gilles3000 said:


> Don't think so. The frame is 440mm tall, and even the shortest of 420mm radiators are 450mm long.
> 
> I guess you could cut a hole in the bottom for the end tank to fit trough to make it fit.


Lol, okay I won't do that . I already ordered an EK CoolStream PE 360 anyway.


----------



## Owterspace

I’ve toned down my fan setup a bit, and switched from Le Grand Macho RT to True Spirit 140 Power. Works good 🙂


----------



## kgtuning

My Define 7


----------



## phamine

Has anyone been able to use a vertical GPU mount in the Meshify C case with a Noctua NH-D15?

Some pics of the clearance I have with my GPU. It looks like I can't go over the 6th slot if I can mount it vertically.

https://imgur.com/a/lHcmZRv


----------



## D-EJ915

Owterspace said:


> I’ve toned down my fan setup a bit, and switched from Le Grand Macho RT to True Spirit 140 Power. Works good 🙂
> 
> View attachment 350470


That's not a bad idea on the fan mounting there, their included system is garbage and even with spending time to place the rubber mounts so the fan is further from the heatsink they still pop out from the fan holes lol.


----------



## rluker5

kgtuning said:


> My Define 7


That is a really clean focused on performance rig.
Your pc makes the Define 7 look like it was made for that.

I'm jealous.


----------



## kgtuning

rluker5 said:


> That is a really clean focused on performance rig.
> Your pc makes the Define 7 look like it was made for that.
> 
> I'm jealous.


Wow man, thanks for the compliment! I just love this style of rig.


----------



## Owterspace

D-EJ915 said:


> That's not a bad idea on the fan mounting there, their included system is garbage and even with spending time to place the rubber mounts so the fan is further from the heatsink they still pop out from the fan holes lol.


I hear you man. The clips worked "ok" until I had them off a few times. Now its hit and miss.. and my GPU doesn't have a backplate, and I've lost a gpu due to shorting in the past.. A new Zotac 285 AMP! It was a good card. Deep regrets.

The fan clips on my Le Grand Macho RT are excellent, no need for a zip tie there lol. I really like how I can access everything on my board with this cooler. Temps are the same between both coolers.


----------



## Aqualoon

Have a question on the Node 804 that I'm hoping someone can answer for me. I have a 280mm AIO cooler which I see it can take which it can take on the top right chamber. I also see that this is where the HDD bays are but read on the Fractal page "if the HDD drive bays are taken out or placed elsewhere" so from this I'm assuming they can be placed elsewhere? Can anyone confirm this? I am wanting to add 1-2 3.5" HDDs for picture/video storage and want to make sure this will all fit before I pull the trigger on this case.

Thanks


----------



## Shenhua

Looks like there´s a new define C version, called define 7 C...... soo....let´s see:

1. Pretty confident the new case can fit 3x140mm in the front no problem, despite oficial support. Check!
2. SSD placement at the back of the motherboard changed, since the old place behind CPU and VRM was pretty toasty. Check!
3. PSU shroud redesigned for better airflow at GPU level coming from the front inferior fan, aswell as more elevation at the bottom in case the bottom it´s used for fans. Check!
4. Solid top panel for the TOP, aswell as mesh, which wasnt necesarily a requierement but it´s a nice to have. Check! (which you should definitely keep or sell separately for the MESHIFY version. I know it might look like a TOP solid panel doesnt make any sense for the meshify, but a meshify version with solid top panel, for those that like air cooling and optimize for dead silence it´s perfect)
5. Life style improvements and looks updated. Check!

So far....JOB WELL DONE!

Details to mention:
Too much material on the pattern you use for ventilation, which considering you doing it for design, it´s ok. What´s NOT ok, it´s that you do that with filters too, which is gonna hurt really bad airflow through those sides. You already make the point with patern you have on the chasis, at the bottom, on the power supply shroud, at the rear of the case and on top of the case if the perforated one is used. Doing the filters that way too it´s just excesive, unnecesary and in this case, pretty damn sure it will be counterproductive, because the solid part of both sides won´t overlap and will have too much material on the way of airflow. What´s up with the filters you guys make anyway?! They are excesively over engineered and always end up with more plastic than filter. What´s wrong with a rectangle and an X support for every 120mm of surfice??? It´s simple, eficient and cost effective.


----------



## aerial

R6 with 2 radiators (240 bottom and 280 front)
more: https://imgur.com/gallery/PY6jCpM


----------



## CptAsian

aerial said:


> R6 with 2 radiators (240 bottom and 280 front)
> more: https://imgur.com/gallery/PY6jCpM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler





Looks great! I've always loved soft tubing, and it fits really well in your build.


----------



## lapino

Can anyone help me improve noise/temps. Currently have my case setup as this :









Rad in front, with 2x140mm pulling air in (outside > fans > rad > case)
1 bottom 140mm intake
1 read 140mm exhaust
3 140mm fans as exhaust on top

Problem is (and remains) my GPU still getting somewhat loud when I run heavy games. I suppose there's not enough air flow blowing cool air over the gpu. It's not overheating, but once fans reach 65% speed, it's loud. So any recommendations? I can swap things around a bit, but takes quite a bit of work so figured to ask here. My main goal is noise, but of couse temps need to be kept in check too.


----------



## Avacado

lapino said:


> Can anyone help me improve noise/temps. Currently have my case setup as this :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rad in front, with 2x140mm pulling air in (outside > fans > rad > case)
> 1 bottom 140mm intake
> 1 read 140mm exhaust
> 3 140mm fans as exhaust on top
> 
> Problem is (and remains) my GPU still getting somewhat loud when I run heavy games. I suppose there's not enough air flow blowing cool air over the gpu. It's not overheating, but once fans reach 65% speed, it's loud. So any recommendations? I can swap things around a bit, but takes quite a bit of work so figured to ask here. My main goal is noise, but of couse temps need to be kept in check too.


No worries, the reason your GPU is running hot is because of that rear 140mm intake. Flip it around and let the hot air coming off the PCB exit the case. Should look something similar to below. You could even get away with removing that 140mm fan on the top closest to your front rad.


----------



## lapino

Would it help putting the rad in the top and thus create unrestricted airflow from front over gpu? Or would that make little difference. Also, I have these fans installed, maybe I could invest a small sum in better/more suited fans:

* RAD intake : 2x NZXT 140mm fans (that came with the Kraken x60) > suppose these are 'fine', ok to place these in front of the rad, or better to put them behind the rad?
* Bottom + Exchaust : BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 (3pin, didn't understand PWM at the time when I bought these few years back). Not sure if these are well suited as exhausts. Pretty silent, but don't feel much airflow.
* Top : 3x NZXT AER 140mm RGB fans. Nice visuals, but not exactly silent fans and not sure these are good for exhaust


----------



## Avacado

lapino said:


> Would it help putting the rad in the top and thus create unrestricted airflow from front over gpu? Or would that make little difference. Also, I have these fans installed, maybe I could invest a small sum in better/more suited fans:
> 
> * RAD intake : 2x NZXT 140mm fans (that came with the Kraken x60) > suppose these are 'fine', ok to place these in front of the rad, or better to put them behind the rad?
> * Bottom + Exchaust : BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 (3pin, didn't understand PWM at the time when I bought these few years back). Not sure if these are well suited as exhausts. Pretty silent, but don't feel much airflow.
> * Top : 3x NZXT AER 140mm RGB fans. Nice visuals, but not exactly silent fans and not sure these are good for exhaust


Honestly, I would try what I suggested first, it requires the least amount of labor. But in theory, you could try switching your rad config, it would certainly introduce cooler air to your GPU by not having to cool the CPU and sending warmer air to the GPU, but it would also raise your CPU temps I would think. If you aren't worried about your CPU going up a few c and want your GPU to drop a few c, I would try it.


----------



## lapino

Any recommendations for fans?


----------



## Avacado

lapino said:


> Any recommendations for fans?


Your going to want either @ciarlatano or @doyll for that question.


----------



## ciarlatano

Avacado said:


> No worries, the reason your GPU is running hot is because of that rear 140mm intake. Flip it around and let the hot air coming off the PCB exit the case. Should look something similar to below. You could even get away with removing that 140mm fan on the top closest to your front rad.


The other reason it's running hot is because the rig has absolutely no cool air intake. None. Zero. Nada. Zip. Kind of hard to cool components by blowing warm air over them.

That rear 140mm intake probablt isn't a determining factor. Anything it blows in just gets sucked into the exhaust fan it is blowing directly at. This build is warm air intake with a bunch of exhaust fans just used for argeebee.



lapino said:


> Would it help putting the rad in the top and thus create unrestricted airflow from front over gpu? Or would that make little difference. Also, I have these fans installed, maybe I could invest a small sum in better/more suited fans:
> 
> * RAD intake : 2x NZXT 140mm fans (that came with the Kraken x60) > suppose these are 'fine', ok to place these in front of the rad, or better to put them behind the rad?
> * Bottom + Exchaust : BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 (3pin, didn't understand PWM at the time when I bought these few years back). Not sure if these are well suited as exhausts. Pretty silent, but don't feel much airflow.
> * Top : 3x NZXT AER 140mm RGB fans. Nice visuals, but not exactly silent fans and not sure these are good for exhaust


Yes, putting the rad up top as an exhaust and putting a pair of good 140mm up front as intake should help the GPU dramatically. Also, turn around the rear fan to exhaust, and removing any unused PCI covers would help. Your CPU will run a couple (literally, a couple) of degrees warmer, but all of those air cooled components in your case will be a lot better off for it.

As far as the front intake fans, it depends on your budget. If you can spring for the SW3 high speed, go for it. A tier down price-wise can get you into the Phanteks F140MP which are excellent performers with a really nice sound signature. If you want to stay with a budget fan, a million people are going to jump in here recommending the Arctic P14/140 (which I found to be a really good budget fan, but still clearly a budget fan), but the price has jumped up on them so they now cost as much as the F140MP.


----------



## lapino

I figured there's too little cool air sucked in, due to the rad already warming up. Not by much, but still (cpu isn't oc'd). The top-fans are something I bought a long while back, couldn't care less if they're RGB or not, but they're the only 4pin fans I have right now to use as exhaust. They're not that bad, but I guess there's better performing fans out there. Also, I know the Define R6 isn't exactly the best for air intake due to the front filter/door. The PCI covers are ventilated (small open lines) so I guess that's ok there. Will try to move the rad up top, and post later. Thx for the advice.

Fwiw

temps idle :
* cpu : +- 38°C
* gpu : +- 42°C

temp max (with bottom/rear fan at 500rpm - top at 550rpm - noise levels which I can stand - gpu/kraken ramps up via bios/own software)
* cpu : +- 71.6°C (AC:Odyssey for about an hour)
* gpu : +- 74°C (idem)


----------



## ciarlatano

lapino said:


> I figured there's too little cool air sucked in, due to the rad already warming up. Not by much, but still (cpu isn't oc'd).


It's more than just the rad warming the air, which doesn't help. The front of the case is restrictive, now you are adding the restriction of the rad on top of that. There just isn't any fresh air getting to the GPU. The bottom fans has to deal with the PSU shroud, so....you're GPU is starved for cool air.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Not the greatest picture, but I upgraded all the fans in my Meshify C to Noctuas so the RPMs can be cranked for maximum airflow without the machine sounding like a jet taking off. I would kill for an extra 6 inches (that's what she said) at the top, so I could slide the cooler up a bit and have more access to my first PCIe slot. Overall, I still love the case to bits.


----------



## Shenhua

Too many fans, GPU is badly placed, especially for the case since it's well known to starve big GPUs. I guess you have it there, because the motherboard can't fit the cooler with the GPU in the first slot.

The case can do much better than that, but if you're happy, I'm glad for you.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Shenhua said:


> Too many fans, GPU is badly placed, especially for the case since it's well known to starve big GPUs. I guess you have it there, because the motherboard can't fit the cooler with the GPU in the first slot.
> 
> The case can do much better than that, but if you're happy, I'm glad for you.


I see a fan slot, a fan's gotta go there. It's like... the law, or something. Yeah, I'm kinda SOL on the GPU placement. ASRock, in their infinite wisdom, made the second PCIe slot X8, so it's either move the GPU down to the last slot (which doesn't seem to be causing any temp issues), or deal with potential performance issues by giving the GPU half the bandwidth.


----------



## Multiplectic

You could also turn the CPU cooler so it'll flow vertically towards the upper fans, and fit the GPU in the first PCIe slot.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Multiplectic said:


> You could also turn the CPU cooler so it'll flow vertically towards the upper fans, and fit the GPU in the first PCIe slot.


Unfortunately I cannot, as I have the TR4 model. It only goes on one way. From what I can figure, my only option is to lose the top fans, ratchet the cooler up a bit, and then I'd have full access to my first PCIe slot. But the removal of fans would surely be illegal, and would undoubtedly kill me inside.


----------



## Multiplectic

I see... Did you try offsetting it?

https://youtu.be/xb61pC0B7e0?t=76


----------



## PriestOfSin

Multiplectic said:


> I see... Did you try offsetting it?
> 
> https://youtu.be/xb61pC0B7e0?t=76


In order to offset it enough, I'd have to lose my top fans I believe.


----------



## Multiplectic

It wouldn't be the worst idea... You'd still have tons of positive pressure, so the top grill would still vent out a ton of heat.

EDIT: OR, OR... Crazy idea... Mount the top fans on the *outside*.


----------



## ciarlatano

PriestOfSin said:


> In order to offset it enough, I'd have to lose my top fans I believe.


Nothing wrong with that....Your fan in every possible place approach typically leads to lots of airBLOW and lousy airFLOW.


----------



## Shenhua

PriestOfSin said:


> In order to offset it enough, I'd have to lose my top fans I believe.


If you can do it, without having an impact in CPU thermals, you don't really need them. They do little to nothing anyway.

Here's how i would configure the case if i could move the GPU to the upper slot. Actually i have mine configured this same way I'm going to suggest:

--Remove rear fan and send it to the front on the inferior side. 
--Remove top fans 
--remove one of the cooler fans
--remove top of the power supply shroud,
--remove pcie brackets, 
--remove the foam inside the front mesh filter (you have it in a clean environment, so the metal mesh is gonna filter more than good enough), 
--remove drive cage and install one of the 140mm you removed from top or cooler on the bottom of the case. Make sure to not run it excessively fast, because it's gonna cut the airflow of the front fans.
--Make 1cm feet risers from cork or some other material and rise the case.
--clean excess cabling from bellow the power supply shroud and route it as best as you can behind the motherboard.
--use the top grill to mount storage


Like this, after 1100-1200rpm on cooler and case fans, you should have big diminishing returns, since you are moving a **** ton of air on the correct paths and with next to no resistance.

You might wanna test out the cooler with 1 fan, and with double fan at very high loads, but I wouldn't hold my breath on it.


Enviado desde mi RMX1971 mediante Tapatalk


----------



## PriestOfSin

Multiplectic said:


> It wouldn't be the worst idea... You'd still have tons of positive pressure, so the top grill would still vent out a ton of heat.
> 
> EDIT: OR, OR... Crazy idea... Mount the top fans on the *outside*.


.... you're a genius. I'm going to do that tomorrow.


----------



## Avacado

PriestOfSin said:


> Not the greatest picture, but I upgraded all the fans in my Meshify C to Noctuas so the RPMs can be cranked for maximum airflow without the machine sounding like a jet taking off. I would kill for an extra 6 inches (that's what she said) at the top, so I could slide the cooler up a bit and have more access to my first PCIe slot. Overall, I still love the case to bits.


Lets breakdown your airflow, shall we? I think you actually have a very good flow design, see picture below, th only thing I see inhibiting your airflow is the first top fan closest to the intake front fans. Otherwise, if it were me, I wouldn't change a thing. Take that for what it's worth to you.


----------



## Avacado

Double post.


----------



## Avacado

This is a repurposed folding rig being turned into a water cooling build I am working on with my son as we speak. He is 14 and is choosing all of the parts and I am giving a bit of guidance on tube runs. Still this is exactly what I just suggested for you.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Went to micro center today and picked up a Define S2 for $99. Came to the conclusion after considering all your guys feedback that the Meshify C isn't really the best case for me without some heavy modification. Thus some watercooling is in order! Do you guys think a single large radiator in the front would be enough for a 2950X+VII?


----------



## Multiplectic

If you're talking about a 360mm, and a thicc one, it should be (I'm assuming you'll have 6x fans in push-pull, given your love for fans ).


----------



## ciarlatano

PriestOfSin said:


> Went to micro center today and picked up a Define S2 for $99. Came to the conclusion after considering all your guys feedback that the Meshify C isn't really the best case for me without some heavy modification. Thus some watercooling is in order! Do you guys think a single large radiator in the front would be enough for a 2950X+VII?


You would be much better off doing something like 360+240 HLW GTS than one single thick rad. There would be a huge performance difference for a nominal cost difference. Not to mention it would be significantly quieter while providing a good reason to use more fans.


----------



## PriestOfSin

Multiplectic said:


> If you're talking about a 360mm, and a thicc one, it should be (I'm assuming you'll have 6x fans in push-pull, given your love for fans ).





ciarlatano said:


> You would be much better off doing something like 360+240 HLW GTS than one single thick rad. There would be a huge performance difference for a nominal cost difference. Not to mention it would be significantly quieter while providing a good reason to use more fans.


An opportunity to use more fans? Now you're talking my language. I got my system transferred over, the only thing I dislike about the S2 is that the "cable compartment" for the PSU isn't closed off in any way. Might have a friend 3D print a cover or something. I'm going to start looking into water-cooling supplies tomorrow.


----------



## Avacado

PriestOfSin said:


> An opportunity to use more fans? Now you're talking my language. I got my system transferred over, the only thing I dislike about the S2 is that the "cable compartment" for the PSU isn't closed off in any way. Might have a friend 3D print a cover or something. I'm going to start looking into water-cooling supplies tomorrow.


When you do decide to start looking, PPCS will most likely have a fathers day sale that could net you 15% off and free shipping.


----------



## syncro2020

Hi Everyone,
Just joined the forums, and thought to make a first post here showing my build in a Fractal Design Meshify S2 case. Love this case, great for water cooling build, even though not as spacious as some others, but i just love the look and function of it.


Im running a I9-9900k @ 5.1Ghz @1.272v
Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Master Motherboard
G.SKILL Trident Z 4x8GB Samsung B-Die 3600Mhz 16-16-16-36 kit @4000Mhz 16-16-16-36
Gigabyte GTX 1080TI Extreme Waterforce WB


----------



## raggazam

Good work syncro2020 
Your ram is F4-3600C16Q-32GTZR ?

big up


----------



## syncro2020

raggazam said:


> Good work syncro2020
> Your ram is F4-3600C16Q-32GTZR ?
> 
> big up





Thank man. This was my first time water cooling and overclocking as well

Ram is F4-3600C16Q-32GTZR, thats correct.
Excellent piece imho, originally i had 2x8GB Patriot Viper RGB with samsung B-Die as well, but they stopped selling it so i couldn't get another set, and didn't have money to get 2 sets when i did the build. Since Aorus master is T topology ram layout, 4 sticks are prefered for overclocking.
Gskill ram i just got a week ago as a present for my birthday


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hi, I just build this rig for my son after selling my mining farm. Build it mostly with soare parts.
i5 6500
GTX 1080ti
G Skill 3200MHz 16GB
Asus Z270 Prime A mobo
Already planning to upgrade the CPU to an i7 7700k

I’m trying to OC the non K CPU but it seems OCing the BCLK doesn’t work


----------



## Aqualoon

Node 804

Left chamber fan layout: Front = 2 x 120 mm intake | Top = 2 x 120 mm exhaust | Back = 1 x 120 mm exhaust
Right chamber fan layout: Front Bottom = 1 x 120 mm intake | Top = 280 mm Radiator (H115i Pro RGB) intake | Back = 1 x 120 mm exhaust

Was just using the less than handful of stock fans that came with the case, upgraded to Corsair SP 120 RGB and added a lot more fans. With the radiator in the top right chamber I wasn't able to fit another fan on that side for intake. I now have 9 fans (including the ones on the radiator) and have improved my temps while living up to my Chroma lifestyle.

Temps while folding @ medium
Before = CPU @ 51C & GPU @ 70C
After = CPU @ 44C & GPU @ 64C


----------



## Dunan

I have a define R7 but am having issues getting air to the GPU (2080) even with fans in the bottom area blowing up towards the GPU. They are in the lower area by the power supply. I have two 140mm in the front, one for exaust and two 120 on bottom. Gaming with any modern games like RDR2 makes the GPU hit 70c+ temps. Obviously I didn't think this out or I would have gotten a different, more airflow oriented case. 

Do the fractal experts know if there's any way to get some cooler air to the GPU? Changing fans to higher RPM fans helped idle temps but not load temps. 

I looked at the meshify C and my GPU won't fit. The meshify S2 is an option but looks like the R7 with only a mesh front? And it's another 150 that I already spent on the R7....

Am I out of luck? Is there no way to get air down there without going full water? There's no way I can go that route. 

Any suggestions would be awesome!


----------



## Falkentyne

Dunan said:


> I have a define R7 but am having issues getting air to the GPU (2080) even with fans in the bottom area blowing up towards the GPU. They are in the lower area by the power supply. I have two 140mm in the front, one for exaust and two 120 on bottom. Gaming with any modern games like RDR2 makes the GPU hit 70c+ temps. Obviously I didn't think this out or I would have gotten a different, more airflow oriented case.
> 
> Do the fractal experts know if there's any way to get some cooler air to the GPU? Changing fans to higher RPM fans helped idle temps but not load temps.
> 
> I looked at the meshify C and my GPU won't fit. The meshify S2 is an option but looks like the R7 with only a mesh front? And it's another 150 that I already spent on the R7....
> 
> Am I out of luck? Is there no way to get air down there without going full water? There's no way I can go that route.
> 
> Any suggestions would be awesome!


What RPM are those fans?
I have 2x 3000 RPM 140mm Noctua industrial fans in the front on my Define 7 XL (I removed the stock fans but kept the original fan in the back--positive air pressure is good you know) and I do get air on my Vega 64 but it's not a lot. The case is very large, so the air is rather dispersed by the time it gets to the card. It does help compared to the stock fans though and reduces temps a few C.

How do load temps change if you open the front door?


----------



## Dunan

Falkentyne said:


> Dunan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a define R7 but am having issues getting air to the GPU (2080) even with fans in the bottom area blowing up towards the GPU. They are in the lower area by the power supply. I have two 140mm in the front, one for exaust and two 120 on bottom. Gaming with any modern games like RDR2 makes the GPU hit 70c+ temps. Obviously I didn't think this out or I would have gotten a different, more airflow oriented case.
> 
> Do the fractal experts know if there's any way to get some cooler air to the GPU? Changing fans to higher RPM fans helped idle temps but not load temps.
> 
> I looked at the meshify C and my GPU won't fit. The meshify S2 is an option but looks like the R7 with only a mesh front? And it's another 150 that I already spent on the R7....
> 
> Am I out of luck? Is there no way to get air down there without going full water? There's no way I can go that route.
> 
> Any suggestions would be awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> What RPM are those fans?
> I have 2x 3000 RPM 140mm Noctua industrial fans in the front on my Define 7 XL (I removed the stock fans but kept the original fan in the back--positive air pressure is good you know) and I do get air on my Vega 64 but it's not a lot. The case is very large, so the air is rather dispersed by the time it gets to the card. It does help compared to the stock fans though and reduces temps a few C.
> 
> How do load temps change if you open the front door?
Click to expand...


The fans right now are all 1200RPM, I did pick up a couple of Noctua NF-A14 PWM that will arrive tomorrow. I don't know if that would help, they are for the front intake. Even if they don't work well I can always use them somewhere else. 

The temps hardly change at all if I prop the door open. Maybe a couple C but not really enough make a difference. I have a couple 120mm Silverstone industrial fans I could throw in there but the noise from those things is unbearable. 

I have a feeling I have to get a new case with better cooling capabilities.


----------



## JackCY

Dunan said:


> I have a define R7 but am having issues getting air to the GPU (2080) even with fans in the bottom area blowing up towards the GPU. They are in the lower area by the power supply. I have two 140mm in the front, one for exaust and two 120 on bottom. Gaming with any modern games like RDR2 makes the GPU hit 70c+ temps. Obviously I didn't think this out or I would have gotten a different, more airflow oriented case.
> 
> Do the fractal experts know if there's any way to get some cooler air to the GPU? Changing fans to higher RPM fans helped idle temps but not load temps.
> 
> I looked at the meshify C and my GPU won't fit. The meshify S2 is an option but looks like the R7 with only a mesh front? And it's another 150 that I already spent on the R7....
> 
> Am I out of luck? Is there no way to get air down there without going full water? There's no way I can go that route.
> 
> Any suggestions would be awesome!


How do your temperatures change when you open the front door?

If you're using the bottom "PSU shroud" aka GPU intake blocker, well then don't be surprised as all the air is getting trapped in that bottom section and isn't reaching the GPU.

The easiest thing to get good GPU temps is to add side intake but they tend to be noisy, or people buy cases with glass and don't have that option at all.

The rest is up to your GPU cooler, some are simply bad or your case is pooling hot air in it so much that it reaches the GPU.
If you did not cut out the fan grills, well there is another big obstruction. Remove PCIe covers, etc.

The Define was never an airflow case, it's a restricted front intake type of case with fairly minimal design and acceptable quietness. On the other hand you can always open or remove the front door and get to all of them 3x140mm front intake, I have that in mine and at full 1700rpm P14 PWM it blows air out the rear of the case and that's with all other panels, side and top removed, so nothing is keeping the air to go through but the fans do that. Of course once you drop speeds and add dust filters all of this amazing air blow is gone.

It's all about how you set it up. In the end 99% of all cases are one bad metal box after another when it comes to cooling.

Another trick is to add 80mm intake for the GPU in place of PCIe covers. It fits there nicely.


----------



## Dunan

JackCY said:


> How do your temperatures change when you open the front door?
> 
> If you're using the bottom "PSU shroud" aka GPU intake blocker, well then don't be surprised as all the air is getting trapped in that bottom section and isn't reaching the GPU.
> 
> The easiest thing to get good GPU temps is to add side intake but they tend to be noisy, or people buy cases with glass and don't have that option at all.
> 
> The rest is up to your GPU cooler, some are simply bad or your case is pooling hot air in it so much that it reaches the GPU.
> If you did not cut out the fan grills, well there is another big obstruction. Remove PCIe covers, etc.
> 
> The Define was never an airflow case, it's a restricted front intake type of case with fairly minimal design and acceptable quietness. On the other hand you can always open or remove the front door and get to all of them 3x140mm front intake, I have that in mine and at full 1700rpm P14 PWM it blows air out the rear of the case and that's with all other panels, side and top removed, so nothing is keeping the air to go through but the fans do that. Of course once you drop speeds and add dust filters all of this amazing air blow is gone.
> 
> It's all about how you set it up. In the end 99% of all cases are one bad metal box after another when it comes to cooling.
> 
> Another trick is to add 80mm intake for the GPU in place of PCIe covers. It fits there nicely.



Opening the front door will get me a 1c drop on the CPU and a 2c drop on the GPU but only at idle. It helps a little if I launch something graphic intensive but for the most part it doesnt help that much. I tried to fit 3x140's in the front, I dont see a way to do it, even removing the DVD tray. I thought they would natively fit but they dont. I thought of that first before trying anything else. So I put 3x120 1200RPM's up front at first before switching back to the 2x140's. They were quieter, but GPU/CPU both ran about 3-4c hotter at idle that way.

I didn't think there would be such a hotspot in the case for the GPU or I would have gotten something else. I dont know how gamer's nexus does it (other than keeping their room maybe like a freezer) but what sold me on this case is that they show a torture test with the R7 of only 56-60c on the GPU, so cool and quiet, so I thought. I thought it would be better than the R6 cooling wise than my other build but apparently not. As I said in my other post, I have a feeling I have to get another case with more airflow.


----------



## kgtuning

Lol, my 2080ti ran at 83c. Even with 7 EK 140mm Vardars running at 2200rpms moving a ton of air everything ran hot. Now my rig is watercooled. Can you return the case and go with something else?


----------



## Dunan

kgtuning said:


> Lol, my 2080ti ran at 83c. Even with 7 EK 140mm Vardars running at 2200rpms moving a ton of air everything ran hot. Now my rig is watercooled. Can you return the case and go with something else?


I can't, i've had the case for over a year or i definitely would


----------



## Aqualoon

JackCY said:


> Another trick is to add 80mm intake for the GPU in place of PCIe covers. It fits there nicely.


Dunan, can you try this?

PSU shroud is blocking in the intake for the GPU, gotta try something to by-pass that or look into another case. Another option is to look into a GPU AOI cooler, but after the bracket and the actual cooler it would probably be cheaper to get another case.


----------



## Dunan

Aqualoon said:


> Dunan, can you try this?
> 
> PSU shroud is blocking in the intake for the GPU, gotta try something to by-pass that or look into another case. Another option is to look into a GPU AOI cooler, but after the bracket and the actual cooler it would probably be cheaper to get another case.


I would certainly try it, but I don't have an 80mm fan. I'd also have to look at how to mount it. It would only be temporary as i'd need a more permanent solution. I'd like to eventually get a lian li 011 or XL as they apparently air cool very well even though the case is marketed for water, but they are consistently sold out or unavailable. How close the fans mount on the bottom to the GPU is exactly what I'm looking for.

Doesn't have to be that case, but something where I can get some air onto the graphics card outside of a test bench and a house fan xD


----------



## Aqualoon

Mount it with zip ties. I've done that a few times back in the day.


----------



## speed_demon

Here is one of the techniques - I believe Doyll posted this originally.


----------



## JackCY

Dunan said:


> Opening the front door will get me a 1c drop on the CPU and a 2c drop on the GPU but only at idle. It helps a little if I launch something graphic intensive but for the most part it doesnt help that much. I tried to fit 3x140's in the front, I dont see a way to do it, even removing the DVD tray. I thought they would natively fit but they dont. I thought of that first before trying anything else. So I put 3x120 1200RPM's up front at first before switching back to the 2x140's. They were quieter, but GPU/CPU both ran about 3-4c hotter at idle that way.
> 
> I didn't think there would be such a hotspot in the case for the GPU or I would have gotten something else. I dont know how gamer's nexus does it (other than keeping their room maybe like a freezer) but what sold me on this case is that they show a torture test with the R7 of only 56-60c on the GPU, so cool and quiet, so I thought. I thought it would be better than the R6 cooling wise than my other build but apparently not. As I said in my other post, I have a feeling I have to get another case with more airflow.


If the door opening is not helping you then either no matter what the air intake is poor due to fans or the coolers are not up to the job you expect.
The only thing blocking airflow on define is the door and air filters, once you open the door... well there are no filters anymore at least on new Define series and on older you can remove the filter quickly.
If the door does close to nothing... well then intake likely isn't your problem.

Are you pooling hot air on top rear of the case? How low does the hot air get.

Some GPU coolers are awful and blow air toward front of case etc. Had one of those too by now.

Are you sure your GPU is even supposed to run cooler and does so stuck in a case beside open test bench?



Dunan said:


> I would certainly try it, but I don't have an 80mm fan. I'd also have to look at how to mount it. It would only be temporary as i'd need a more permanent solution. I'd like to eventually get a lian li 011 or XL as they apparently air cool very well even though the case is marketed for water, but they are consistently sold out or unavailable. How close the fans mount on the bottom to the GPU is exactly what I'm looking for.
> 
> Doesn't have to be that case, but something where I can get some air onto the graphics card outside of a test bench and a house fan xD


Rear GPU intake 80mm, 140mm side intake, 140mm bottom intake, 140mm front low intake, that's plenty air for almost any GPU. Don't know how much more air do you want. This is what I could fit into almost any Define R case and would feed the GPU.

If you use the PSU shroud... well that certainly doesn't help at all as it blocks all the bottom and front low intakes.

If you remove the side panel how much do the GPU temps. drop?

70+ C for an average GPU cooler is normal, not all coolers manage to stay in the 60s. Some are designed to cool well but the fan curves are made for quiet operation and push the card into 80s even. You could have all the intakes you want but if the card is set to run hot, that's just how it is set.
If you're dropping 5-15C by removing side panel or opening the front door, then yes you could use a bit more intake for the GPU.


Define 7 even with the rear slot covers installed should not be that bad for GPU temps as the slots are quite open, sure it's not cut out entirely as attached but it's better than what they used to use on older Define.



speed_demon said:


> Here is one of the techniques - I believe Doyll posted this originally.


I don't think I have a photo, I did it for an old C2D machine as the case had no other intake at all LOL, seen the machine 2 days ago actually but I wiped the photos possibly couple weeks ago too.

I mount the fan as intake on outside of the case. 2 fan screws from inside of case into the fan, rotate the fan so it jams in, problem is the fan screws have very little heads and won't hold so I used one washer on one of the screws so it doesn't rotate itself out of position when tightened. Or use a washer on both screws. Wire grill on outside of the fan intake blowing into the case, since it's not my PC so someone or pet could grab into the fan otherwise.

Why not put the fan inside the case? There may be no space for it inside and on some cases there is 25mm just for fan thickness to fit outside and not stick out. Or if you have an unfortunate GPU position the fan won't fit, all depends how much space you have below the GPU, which slot the GPU pluigs into, how thick it is, what ports it has, simply how much space there is for you to use for the fan.

For a classic side panel there should be a side fan position and these often help quite a bit with GPU temps as they should blow fresh air right in front of the GPU fans.


----------



## PraiseKek

Meshify S2 - By far the best case i've ever had


----------



## man from atlantis

PraiseKek said:


> Meshify S2 - By far the best case i've ever had


Everytime i sit down my chair and power on the pc i'm just amazed what a great case i have


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## Mescalit0

Dunan said:


> I have a define R7 but am having issues getting air to the GPU (2080) even with fans in the bottom area blowing up towards the GPU. They are in the lower area by the power supply. I have two 140mm in the front, one for exaust and two 120 on bottom. Gaming with any modern games like RDR2 makes the GPU hit 70c+ temps....


I don't notice you mention anywhere what your GPU fan curve is set to. The stock settings are usually designed to be more quiet than cool. If you leave them this way it won't matter what your case airflow is, the fans will just run slower and slower as the temps drop inside the case.
My latest 1080 Ti had a terrible default curve setup, hit ~80° with any type of gaming. Using my custom curve it never hits over 65° in the most demanding games even with a good overclock.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Apparently I have become a Fractal Design fan without even realizing it. But I need help in my choices.

I am coming from a NZXT Phantom 820 with a full side window. Within it has a 4930k on a Rampage IV Black Ed MB. it's all in my sig.

I am in the process of upgrading my system to an AMD 3900X with a Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite WIFI motherboard (should be here today). 

I currently have the Fractal Design Meshify C case to house this because I was looking for something with better airflow and it was inexpensive, but there is a slight issue in using this case with this AMD MB. 

First off coming from a full eatx case like my 820 this Meshify C case seems so minimal. Second the MB I am awaiting on has a USB type C connector for the case front panel and the Meshify C case does not have that connector on the front panel, in fact it only has 2 USB 3.0 connectors. In addition I plan on moving my water cooling setup over to the new build eventually (awaiting on adapters for the AMD processor). I do like that this case allows you to mount SSDs on the back side of the case behind the MB. That combined with the NVME drives I have means I will more space in the front for my H240-X AIO and eventually the H360-X3 I am getting. Note that I only have 1 HDD which is a 4tb and houses all my games. This is all ok for me. But then I came across the Fractal Design Define 7 EATX case and it has more USB ports on the front panel along with a Type C connector (which is what my phone uses). It also is not really that expensive at about $169 so I've been thinking of returning the meshify case to get that one. But how is the airflow in this case?? The Meshify has an open front panel with mesh covering which will allow better airflow through the case, whereas the Fractal Design Define 7 has the drive cage and solid front cover. I'd love to get the best of both worlds if possible. If the Fractal Design Define 7 doesn't have as good airflow as the Meshify then is there a case that does but has the Fractal Design Define 7 features? It doesn't necessarily have to be an EATX case but I have been spoiled by the one I have now. 

If I could get a case that has enough USB ports on the front panel (Type C included) along with the special mounting options for SSD drives and what seems like great airflow the Meshify C has I would probably be all in even if it wasn't an EATX case. Something not far over $150 would be especially nice, but the less expensive the better! 

Any recommendations?


----------



## Mescalit0

@Madmaxneo

the Lian Li LANCOOL II is a nice option that fits your requirements. the manufacturer provided images don't do it justice, there are some reviews online where you get to see how "cool" it really looks in person.



a Newegg wishlist of mostly larger mid-full ATX cases with nicer options i've put together over the last couple months:
CASES


i ended up going with the Fractal Design Vector RS for my build-in-progress.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Mescalit0 said:


> @Madmaxneo
> 
> the Lian Li LANCOOL II is a nice option that fits your requirements. the manufacturer provided images don't do it justice, there are some reviews online where you get to see how "cool" it really looks in person.
> 
> 
> 
> a Newegg wishlist of mostly larger mid-full ATX cases with nicer options i've put together over the last couple months:
> CASES
> 
> 
> i ended up going with the Fractal Design Vector RS for my build-in-progress.


Wow, yes that is an awesome case! Thank you so much for recommending it! I am in the process of ordering it now.


----------



## obiwansotti

I'm trying to track down a VRC-25 PCIe adapter for my new Define S2 vision.

Anybody know if other models work, or do I need to wait for them to come into stock?


----------



## Sir Beregond

Still really leaning towards a Meshify S2 for my next build. Only thing that irks me is the front panel connections and how they come off with the panel with the wires like cases I had 10+ years ago. Seems like that will be a bit of a pain for cleaning.


----------



## Dunan

Sir Beregond said:


> Still really leaning towards a Meshify S2 for my next build. Only thing that irks me is the front panel connections and how they come off with the panel with the wires like cases I had 10+ years ago. Seems like that will be a bit of a pain for cleaning.


I was considering the S2 for a while then found the phanteks p600s from the reviews at gamers nexus


----------



## Servos

obiwansotti said:


> I'm trying to track down a VRC-25 PCIe adapter for my new Define S2 vision.
> 
> Anybody know if other models work, or do I need to wait for them to come into stock?


I've been looking around as well. Most of the feedback I've seen indicate that folks have issues with stand-offs... but some stated the same issue with even the VRC-25. From visual inspection the ASUS ROG Strix Riser Cable like it would work, but expensive.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Dunan said:


> I was considering the S2 for a while then found the phanteks p600s from the reviews at gamers nexus


Yeah mostly I really likes the Meshify aesthetic, but yeah, good point and worth looking at.


----------



## Notbn

Sir Beregond said:


> Still really leaning towards a Meshify S2 for my next build. Only thing that irks me is the front panel connections and how they come off with the panel with the wires like cases I had 10+ years ago. Seems like that will be a bit of a pain for cleaning.



Just the mesh section pops out of the front panel for cleaning. At least that's how it is on my Meshify C. No need to take the whole front panel and I/O off.


----------



## Shenhua

Sir Beregond said:


> Still really leaning towards a Meshify S2 for my next build. Only thing that irks me is the front panel connections and how they come off with the panel with the wires like cases I had 10+ years ago. Seems like that will be a bit of a pain for cleaning.


If you remove the bottom filter, there is a cavity at the bottom of the front panel. You slide your fingers through that and push into the bottom edge of the mesh. The mesh part will pop out for cleaning.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Mescalit0

have received my Vector RS Blackout. it was an easy switch, plenty of interior space to work in _and no sharp edges_. is definitely an awesome looking case with very minimal LED.



i see a lot of people complaining that this case has bad airflow but they are crazy and/or obviously don't know how to successfully setup a DIY system. i've got a set of 140mm Silent Wings 3 High-Speed PWM fans in it: 3x front intake, 1x bottom-middle intake, 1x rear out-take, and currently an EVGA CLC 280 blowing out through the top. everything stays plenty cool with loads of exhaust air coming out of the rear & top vents. CPU(8700K @ 5GHz) & GPU(FTW3 1080 Ti) both idling ~35°, in gaming hovering between 50-60°.

the front panel also does not limit airflow much. i can feel plenty of air being pulled in through the front panel's side vents from an inch or two away.


only issue i have with it so far is that the included fan hub does not seem to function correctly. it has 3x 4pin PWM connectors but the 3 PWM fans i connected to the 4pin connectors did not have PWM control options in my fan control software. but when substituting my be quiet! fan hub, using the same PWM motherboard header & SATA power cable, the 3 fans do allow custom PWM curves.
whether this is just a malfunction in my case or the hub is just junk is yet to be seen. Fractal Design states up to 3 days for support response.


----------



## Falkentyne

Mescalit0 said:


> have received my Vector RS Blackout. it was an easy switch, plenty of interior space to work in _and no sharp edges_. is definitely an awesome looking case with very minimal LED.
> 
> 
> 
> i see a lot of people complaining that this case has bad airflow but they are crazy and/or obviously don't know how to successfully setup a DIY system. i've got a set of 140mm Silent Wings 3 High-Speed PWM fans in it: 3x front intake, 1x bottom-middle intake, 1x rear out-take, and currently an EVGA CLC 280 blowing out through the top. everything stays plenty cool with loads of exhaust air coming out of the rear & top vents. CPU(8700K @ 5GHz) & GPU(FTW3 1080 Ti) both idling ~35°, in gaming hovering between 50-60°.
> 
> the front panel also does not limit airflow much. i can feel plenty of air being pulled in through the front panel's side vents from an inch or two away.
> 
> 
> only issue i have with it so far is that the included fan hub does not seem to function correctly. it has 3x 4pin PWM connectors but the 3 PWM fans i connected to the 4pin connectors did not have PWM control options in my fan control software. but when substituting my be quiet! fan hub, using the same PWM motherboard header & SATA power cable, the 3 fans do allow custom PWM curves.
> whether this is just a malfunction in my case or the hub is just junk is yet to be seen. Fractal Design states up to 3 days for support response.


Are those fans you connected 3 or 4 pin? 4 pin should have control.


----------



## Mescalit0

"...a set of 140mm Silent Wings 3 High-Speed PWM..."
"...when substituting my be quiet! fan hub, using the same PWM motherboard header & SATA power cable, the 3 fans do allow custom PWM curves."


obviously they are 4 pin fans. otherwise i wouldn't expect them to have PWM control and they wouldn't work correctly using a different hub.
we'll see if Fractal Design sends a replacement that works correctly. i hope so because i also need the be quiet! hub in it's rightful case.


overall the case is a great buy, but this will really piss me off if i have to find a proper hub to use considering the price of the case. it already seems kind of stupid of them to include a hub that has six 3pin headers but only three 4pin headers. they could've easily included one of their better hub options for PWM control through out the case.


----------



## Falkentyne

Mescalit0 said:


> "...a set of 140mm Silent Wings 3 High-Speed PWM..."
> "...when substituting my be quiet! fan hub, using the same PWM motherboard header & SATA power cable, the 3 fans do allow custom PWM curves."
> 
> 
> obviously they are 4 pin fans. otherwise i wouldn't expect them to have PWM control and they wouldn't work correctly using a different hub.
> we'll see if Fractal Design sends a replacement that works correctly. i hope so because i also need the be quiet! hub in it's rightful case.
> 
> 
> overall the case is a great buy, but this will really piss me off if i have to find a proper hub to use considering the price of the case. it already seems kind of stupid of them to include a hub that has six 3pin headers but only three 4pin headers. they could've easily included one of their better hub options for PWM control through out the case.


My bad. I'm not familiar with many fans. Just my Noctuas.
I was asking because I saw that the 3 pin fractal case 140mm default fans don't show RPM (and run at full speed) if you use the hub with them, unless you also have a 4 pin (e.g. Noctua) fan connected to one of the 4 pin hubs also. And I read from someone else who said that the nexus fan hub wont show RPM or allow control if only 3 pin fans are connected.


----------



## The Pook

Sir Beregond said:


> Still really leaning towards a Meshify S2 for my next build. Only thing that irks me is the front panel connections and how they come off with the panel with the wires like cases I had 10+ years ago. Seems like that will be a bit of a pain for cleaning.



it's on my to-do list to fix, makes cleaning the front filter a bit of a PITA

snip + spade connectors =  

should be ezpz


----------



## Delta9k

Sir Beregond said:


> Still really leaning towards a Meshify S2 for my next build. Only thing that irks me is the front panel connections and how they come off with the panel with the wires like cases I had 10+ years ago. Seems like that will be a bit of a pain for cleaning.


For cleaning it is not really necessary to remove the entire front panel assembly. The "Meshify" grill section can be removed without having to pull the frame. You pull out the bottom filter, then reach under/in and you can pull back on a tab that is holding the "Meshify" insert in place and it will release it. I'll admit it makes me a little nervous so I am just careful and don't get too aggressive with it. Once its out, pretty easy to get a data vac nozzle or what not in there to blow out fans/radiators, and also the "Meshify" grill piece itself. When done you just snap it back in place, and slide the bottom filter back in place. 
Like said, good for the 6mo scheduled clean - but for changing out fans or rads etc., you'll still want to pull the entire front assembly. 

I am not trying to make it sound all roses - I think it is lame that they did not do the panel assembly the same as the straight-up S2.


----------



## Ownedj00

Anyone built a single AIO in a 7 XL? IS it to big for not custom water cooling?


----------



## Delta9k

Ownedj00 said:


> Anyone built a single AIO in a 7 XL? IS it to big for not custom water cooling?


I don't think it is too big for that. I've had similar thoughts myself. I think a roof mounted 360 AIO would work nice - leaving the front clear for all intake, or use a 280, but moving it so it is more forward mounted in the roof so the bulk of the air being pulled through the rad is coming from the "dead" space in front of the mother board. Crap, don't get me started, now I want to play and I've promised myself "No New Builds" til the 4000 series drops...

I just did a build into a Phanteks P600S - though I do not enjoy that chassis as much as my Define 6 generation chassis's - One thing I did like with the P600S is with it being a bit taller, there is absolutely no worries with clearances for tall heat spreaders on dimms, bulky VRM solutions or I/O shields. That's why the extra height in the XL appeals to me - I could have the premium build quality and the look I totally dig from Fractal and be comfortable roof mounting AIOs too.


----------



## Falkentyne

Ownedj00 said:


> Anyone built a single AIO in a 7 XL? IS it to big for not custom water cooling?


I have an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 in mine. That's it.



Delta9k said:


> I don't think it is too big for that. I've had similar thoughts myself. I think a roof mounted 360 AIO would work nice - leaving the front clear for all intake, or use a 280, but moving it so it is more forward mounted in the roof so the bulk of the air being pulled through the rad is coming from the "dead" space in front of the mother board. Crap, don't get me started, now I want to play and I've promised myself "No New Builds" til the 4000 series drops...
> 
> I just did a build into a Phanteks P600S - though I do not enjoy that chassis as much as my Define 6 generation chassis's - One thing I did like with the P600S is with it being a bit taller, there is absolutely no worries with clearances for tall heat spreaders on dimms, bulky VRM solutions or I/O shields. That's why the extra height in the XL appeals to me - I could have the premium build quality and the look I totally dig from Fractal and be comfortable roof mounting AIOs too.



The extra height between top and motherboard is very nice in the XL. Leaves a lot of room.


----------



## Sir Beregond

Shenhua said:


> If you remove the bottom filter, there is a cavity at the bottom of the front panel. You slide your fingers through that and push into the bottom edge of the mesh. The mesh part will pop out for cleaning.
> 
> Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


Thanks. I had seen the Gamers Nexus video which gave me my concern.


----------



## Ownedj00

Delta9k said:


> I don't think it is too big for that. I've had similar thoughts myself. I think a roof mounted 360 AIO would work nice - leaving the front clear for all intake, or use a 280, but moving it so it is more forward mounted in the roof so the bulk of the air being pulled through the rad is coming from the "dead" space in front of the mother board. Crap, don't get me started, now I want to play and I've promised myself "No New Builds" til the 4000 series drops...
> 
> I just did a build into a Phanteks P600S - though I do not enjoy that chassis as much as my Define 6 generation chassis's - One thing I did like with the P600S is with it being a bit taller, there is absolutely no worries with clearances for tall heat spreaders on dimms, bulky VRM solutions or I/O shields. That's why the extra height in the XL appeals to me - I could have the premium build quality and the look I totally dig from Fractal and be comfortable roof mounting AIOs too.


I only got the Lancool 2 in January this year but i find everything is squashed into the bottom and rear panel with the doors only just closing. I would like to change my build into a stealth build with a 420 rad in the top with a custom block and pump in one. (Alphacool Eisbaer) and changing all my fans to noctua NF A12X25's for the silence.



Falkentyne said:


> I have an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 in mine. That's it.
> 
> The extra height between top and motherboard is very nice in the XL. Leaves a lot of room.


Any pics? im thinking maybe even the normal 7 might be big enough.

I have 2x3.5, 2x2.5 drives which makes alot of extra cables


----------



## Delta9k

Ownedj00 said:


> Any pics? im thinking maybe even the normal 7 might be big enough.
> 
> I have 2x3.5, 2x2.5 drives which makes alot of extra cables


If you google "Define 7 XL completed builds" a couple links to PCpartspicker will show - not many there yet, but a few different looks to provide inspiration.


----------



## Shenhua

Sir Beregond said:


> Thanks. I had seen the Gamers Nexus video which gave me my concern.


Even if it's gamers nexus, every1 should take them as orientative, and not "be all, end all" opinions/guide/review.

The meshify C they have with 2x nf a14+1x120 stock fan at the back, can be further improved by a lot. It's not the best case scenario, by a long shot, as it happens with many of their cases.


----------



## Falkentyne

Ownedj00 said:


> I only got the Lancool 2 in January this year but i find everything is squashed into the bottom and rear panel with the doors only just closing. I would like to change my build into a stealth build with a 420 rad in the top with a custom block and pump in one. (Alphacool Eisbaer) and changing all my fans to noctua NF A12X25's for the silence.
> 
> 
> 
> Any pics? im thinking maybe even the normal 7 might be big enough.
> 
> I have 2x3.5, 2x2.5 drives which makes alot of extra cables


Here you go.


----------



## museumman

Been building this Meshify S2 for a little while. Finally in paint and waiting for nice weather to clear it all and fit it up. Never unhappy building in a FD case.


----------



## superleeds27

Question.

Would the 7 be a decent upgrade from the R4. I'm looking tot upgrade and thinking of going down this route.

The internals of the 7 looks better and in theory should help with airflow/temps etc. I'd look at transferring the Arctic P14's from the R4 too over to the 7.


----------



## jonny27

superleeds27 said:


> Question.
> 
> Would the 7 be a decent upgrade from the R4. I'm looking tot upgrade and thinking of going down this route.
> 
> The internals of the 7 looks better and in theory should help with airflow/temps etc. I'd look at transferring the Arctic P14's from the R4 too over to the 7.


Not exactly from an R4 to a 7, but I moved from an Arc Midi R2 to a Define R6, which have similar layouts.

Honestly, if you want a more modern look and features (other than the psu shroud, which I still think it's more of an hindrance to building than a benefit) I'd say go for it. Otherwise, if it's just for potential airflow, I wouldn't bother, for me the result was very underwhelming in both temperatures and noise. In the R6 I had to ramp my F140MP's up a bit just to match the temperatures in the Arc R2, which brought it to about the same noise levels.


----------



## superleeds27

jonny27 said:


> superleeds27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question.
> 
> Would the 7 be a decent upgrade from the R4. I'm looking tot upgrade and thinking of going down this route.
> 
> The internals of the 7 looks better and in theory should help with airflow/temps etc. I'd look at transferring the Arctic P14's from the R4 too over to the 7.
> 
> 
> 
> Not exactly from an R4 to a 7, but I moved from an Arc Midi R2 to a Define R6, which have similar layouts.
> 
> Honestly, if you want a more modern look and features (other than the psu shroud, which I still think it's more of an hindrance to building than a benefit) I'd say go for it. Otherwise, if it's just for potential airflow, I wouldn't bother, for me the result was very underwhelming in both temperatures and noise. In the R6 I had to ramp my F140MP's up a bit just to match the temperatures in the Arc R2, which brought it to about the same noise levels.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I've gone for it anyway. 

Cable management in my R4 is all over the place due to the limited spacing at the back. 

The front fans aren't really in a suitable position on the R4 as the bottom one basically chucks air at the hard drive cage! So while I have them going at around 500rpm, I'm thinking in the 7, the flow/temps may well be a little better?

I currently have two 5.25 drives too in the R4 which I'm intending on leaving out too.

I'm thinking more future proof too actually, Hopefully I'll get a good 7/8 years out of this one like I have the R4!

Managed to grab the 7 for £129 delivered.


----------



## superleeds27

jonny27 said:


> superleeds27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question.
> 
> Would the 7 be a decent upgrade from the R4. I'm looking tot upgrade and thinking of going down this route.
> 
> The internals of the 7 looks better and in theory should help with airflow/temps etc. I'd look at transferring the Arctic P14's from the R4 too over to the 7.
> 
> 
> 
> Not exactly from an R4 to a 7, but I moved from an Arc Midi R2 to a Define R6, which have similar layouts.
> 
> Honestly, if you want a more modern look and features (other than the psu shroud, which I still think it's more of an hindrance to building than a benefit) I'd say go for it. Otherwise, if it's just for potential airflow, I wouldn't bother, for me the result was very underwhelming in both temperatures and noise. In the R6 I had to ramp my F140MP's up a bit just to match the temperatures in the Arc R2, which brought it to about the same noise levels.
Click to expand...

Changeover done. Temps are roughly the same, a little lower on idle if I'm honest which is good.

Noise I've noticed isn't actually the fans but the two 3.5 drives I have in there, realised they're running all the time and not set to 'sleep' so I've made that change and will see how we go.

Will look at swapping those drives in the near future for a 2.5 SSD I think. Makes more sense.

Will test a bit more tomorrow, that's knackered me out!


----------



## JackCY

Some more pictures of a cut up Define R4.


----------



## Elrick

*TOP Led light disappears.....*

Just a question for those that own any Fractal Design 6 or 7 case.

Have the version 7 model and sure enough when starting up the motherboard the led flashes then goes quiet. No more light coming out of that section.

Have connected it securely to the motherboard but it always happens when I restart the PC and the LED flashes quickly, then there is nothing. Is there a setting anywhere inside the Fractal Case that needs to be tripped or engaged, so that the LED section stays lit?

Very odd as every other case I've owned always had a working LED section, showing both the PC when it's on plus the hard drives working as well. This one seems completely dead or refuses to work at all.

Can't be dead from the factory as it sometimes works in the beginning, within the Bios section but oddly out of it and within Windows it fails completely :doh: .


----------



## Notbn

Elrick said:


> Just a question for those that own any Fractal Design 6 or 7 case.
> 
> Have the version 7 model and sure enough when starting up the motherboard the led flashes then goes quiet. No more light coming out of that section.
> 
> Have connected it securely to the motherboard but it always happens when I restart the PC and the LED flashes quickly, then there is nothing. Is there a setting anywhere inside the Fractal Case that needs to be tripped or engaged, so that the LED section stays lit?
> 
> Very odd as every other case I've owned always had a working LED section, showing both the PC when it's on plus the hard drives working as well. This one seems completely dead or refuses to work at all.
> 
> Can't be dead from the factory as it sometimes works in the beginning, within the Bios section but oddly out of it and within Windows it fails completely :doh: .



Sounds like either a setting in your BIOS (good night LED or something similar), or you have your front panel cables plugged in incorrectly.


----------



## JackCY

Elrick said:


> Just a question for those that own any Fractal Design 6 or 7 case.
> 
> Have the version 7 model and sure enough when starting up the motherboard the led flashes then goes quiet. No more light coming out of that section.
> 
> Have connected it securely to the motherboard but it always happens when I restart the PC and the LED flashes quickly, then there is nothing. Is there a setting anywhere inside the Fractal Case that needs to be tripped or engaged, so that the LED section stays lit?
> 
> Very odd as every other case I've owned always had a working LED section, showing both the PC when it's on plus the hard drives working as well. This one seems completely dead or refuses to work at all.
> 
> Can't be dead from the factory as it sometimes works in the beginning, within the Bios section but oddly out of it and within Windows it fails completely :doh: .


R4 had only 1 LED, I've had to add the 2nd one, which gives what's my avatar.
On the other hand my UEFI setting is good night LED as I can't stand LEDs on almost anything unless they are diffused and dim. So for me it blinks white as power is clicked and that's it. Maybe also on system restart, don't remember.

I've never seen a case's setting for LEDs, it's all up to UEFI.

You can test the LEDs with a typical 2-3V battery, voltage source. The LED should lit up and stay lit.
Or just look at how they are connected, normally it's a simple wire from LED to connector with no electronics.

I bet it's your UEFI settings.


----------



## JennyBeans

any know if the R7 XL you can use the HDD trays from the R6? and hopefully this comes in white


----------



## JackCY

I would say it's the same HDD bracket but looking at their accesories, type A R6 is with a bit of plastic at the back and a bit different stamp at the back than type B no plastic bit for 7. No word of 7 XL anywhere.

If the metal stamp differs then removing the plastic bit still may not allow you to hook it up properly, but maybe you could still screw it in.

Just get the case and check when you have it, then buy the accessories if they are even available when necessary.


----------



## Elrick

JackCY said:


> I've never seen a case's setting for LEDs, it's all up to UEFI.
> 
> You can test the LEDs with a typical 2-3V battery, voltage source. The LED should lit up and stay lit.
> Or just look at how they are connected, normally it's a simple wire from LED to connector with no electronics.
> 
> I bet it's your UEFI settings.



You're right, it was all in the AURO area (which I purposely disabled) within the Asus ROG Strix B550 bios section. What a waste if time, having the bios control what turns on in your own PC case.

Switched it back all on and sure enough, the motherboard now glitters like some idiot Christmas tree (awful) and the front Fractal Case LED, is turned on and working. Go figure.


----------



## Mescalit0

Elrick said:


> ...the motherboard now glitters like some idiot Christmas tree (awful) and the front Fractal Case LED, is turned on and working. Go figure.


you can control this through ASUS Aura Sync software and use pre-defined lighting patters with custom colors


or use ASUS Armoury Crate & Aura Creator together and create your own lighting patterns and colors.


----------



## Delta9k

JennyBeans said:


> any know if the R7 XL you can use the HDD trays from the R6? and hopefully this comes in white


The HDD trays look to be the same as R6. At least the part numbers are the same (HDD Tray kit -Type B). The 7 XL comes with 6 trays included. The chassis itself however, only comes for now in Black, and with either light or dark tinted TG, or solid panel. 
https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/define/define-7-xl/black/.


----------



## JackCY

Mescalit0 said:


> you can control this through ASUS Aura Sync software and use pre-defined lighting patters with custom colors
> 
> 
> or use ASUS Armoury Crate & Aura Creator together and create your own lighting patterns and colors.


To that I say:














That's my thoughts on the RGB FAD.
It's like putting RGB cosmetic lights on a car, same nonsense.


----------



## JennyBeans

Delta9k said:


> The HDD trays look to be the same as R6. At least the part numbers are the same (HDD Tray kit -Type B). The 7 XL comes with 6 trays included. The chassis itself however, only comes for now in Black, and with either light or dark tinted TG, or solid panel.
> https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/define/define-7-xl/black/.



crud .. I need an XL in white hopefully they release one, my poor r6 is kinda too small I think lol


----------



## d0mmie

JennyBeans said:


> any know if the R7 XL you can use the HDD trays from the R6? and hopefully this comes in white


No they're not the same. It just compared my R6 hdd tray with the pictures from the model 7, and the difference is the R6 has that plastic tab on the end, and the metal tab that is needed to connect with the model 7 case isn't there on the R6 model.


----------



## Mescalit0

Elrick said:


> ...the motherboard now glitters like some idiot Christmas tree (awful) and the front Fractal Case LED, is turned on and working. Go figure...





Mescalit0 said:


> you can control this through ASUS Aura Sync software and use pre-defined lighting patters with custom colors
> or use ASUS Armoury Crate & Aura Creator together and create your own lighting patterns and colors.





JackCY said:


> ...It's like putting RGB cosmetic lights on a car, same nonsense.


the point is you can control it, _which includes turning it off_.


----------



## Elrick

Mescalit0 said:


> the point is you can control it, _which includes turning it off_.



YES and losing the HD LED on the Fractal Case, showing that the hard drives are working :thumbsdow .


----------



## Mescalit0

Elrick said:


> YES and losing the HD LED on the Fractal Case, showing that the hard drives are working :thumbsdow .


 wrong.
there is individual control for any connected RGB device through the software, so turning off the rainbow garbage or any motherboard effects will NOT interfere with separate case, or any other device's, LEDs.


----------



## JackCY

d0mmie said:


> No they're not the same. It just compared my R6 hdd tray with the pictures from the model 7, and the difference is the R6 has that plastic tab on the end, and the metal tab that is needed to connect with the model 7 case isn't there on the R6 model.


7 XL likely has the same as 7. These are a different type than older cases.

https://www.overclock.net/forum/161...ractal-design-case-club-872.html#post28529686

It's the whole type A vs type B, just look at FD's accessories.

They may fit with DIY, removing the plastic and screwing them in, maybe.


----------



## Falkentyne

Elrick said:


> YES and losing the HD LED on the Fractal Case, showing that the hard drives are working :thumbsdow .


Hook up the Power LED case jumper to the HDD LED jumper block on the motherboard. Problem solved.


----------



## JennyBeans

d0mmie said:


> No they're not the same. It just compared my R6 hdd tray with the pictures from the model 7, and the difference is the R6 has that plastic tab on the end, and the metal tab that is needed to connect with the model 7 case isn't there on the R6 model.



apparently the xl 7 comes with 6 hdd trays so i guess I don't have to worry about that but my only issue is I need my case to be white


----------



## JackCY




----------



## JennyBeans

JackCY said:


>


rather not void my warranty


----------



## JackCY

JennyBeans said:


> rather not void my warranty


Right, in case the steel case disintegrates while exposed to air. 
Warranty on a computer case, if it's OK day 1, it's likely still OK year 100 later.


----------



## Lodbroke

*5 years old FD Core 1300 and still going strong*

Bought my PC 2015 and assembled myself.
Since have more SSD's and a 3.5 3TB HDD been added.
Still running Win7 (sometimes), but mostly Linux Mint.

The handles on top are from a chest of drawer, using them to lift the case and to wind up cables.

Painted the FD Core 1300 before stuffing thing in it.
First Primer then 2 coats of white then 1 coat of clear paint, all with spray cans.
Only painted the removable sides and front parts.

Of course there shavings and wearing on the case after these 5 years.
But gladly the white haven't turned yellowish, probably coz the case never been in direct sunlight.

Oh, there are dust inside, but that's just a few months old as the comp get cleaned from time to time.


----------



## Falkentyne

Fractal Design 7 XL will not be sold in White in the near future. It is a more limited selling case and giant XL_ATX cases are not exactly the most popular.
People wanting a white case are free to email Fractal Design and ask them if they will make a 7 XL in white. Maybe they will do a custom job for you in white but be prepared to $$$.

The regular define 7 has a white version and looks splendid. Good luck keeping it clean though.
A video showing it here at 4 minutes:






https://www.newegg.com/white-fractal-design-define-7-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811352114


----------



## Elrick

Falkentyne said:


> The regular define 7 has a white version and looks splendid. Good luck keeping it clean though.



I've got their standard Define 7 case in all white and the dust, is not even seen on it compared to any dark coloured case.

In fact I choose to believe, my White case to be far cleaner than any other case in my collection (if you can't see the dust then it doesn't exist) :thumb: .

Just don't snort and inhale anything off the surface :yessir: .


----------



## skline00

Just received a Fractal 7XL with deep tinted window. WOW what a nice case.

I had crammed a Magicool 360mm thin rad and a 240 mm standard rad into a Phantek Ethoo Pro to custom watercool a 3900x (using an Optimus WB) and a Radeon VII with an EK block.

I had to strip just about everything out of the case to fit the rads and fans plus my EK D5 pump/res combo. I use clear flexible 1/2"ID/3/4"OD tubing from PC Performance.

I had decided to add more rad capacity so I opted for the Fractal 7XL.

It is a big but not overpowering case. 

I was able to fit a Corsair XR7-480 rad and fans in the top (yes there is plenty of room. There is a misprint in the Fractal literature about top clearance) and retain the Magicool 360 in the front.

You could probably fit 2 thin 480s in this case but the Corsair XR7-480 is @ 54mm thick so you gain quite a bit of water capacity. The Magicool is a thin rad (30mm).

I use flexible tubing and ran two 90 degree fittings from the Corsair rad on top. I'm using 4 Corsair ML120 fans on top pulling outside air into the case and 3 XSPC 1650 rpm rad fans pulling air into the case from the front. I'm using a Corsair Commander Pro unit to control the 4 ML 120 fans and 2 of the 3 XSPC fans (third XSPC fan I just pugged into a fan header on my MSI X570 Unify mb).

I leak tested overnight and fired the machine back up this morning. It's running a few degrees cooler.

BTW I use a Noctua 140MM fan for exhaust. Really works well.

The 7XL is heavy but gives SO much room for custom water cooling without breaking the bank.


----------



## JennyBeans

whats the best fan config for an 6 ... and I can buy the fans around that configuration I have 2 140mm on top 120 mm back 120 mm bott and 2 120 front least i think the 2 in the front of the case are 12's won't matter cause, I love fractals cases and I will stay with them for a long time its just I need better air flow or I can just wait to get my XL and then buy the fans around it , long as it doesn't turn my room into an oven


----------



## skline00

JennyBeans, Trust me the 7XL is a nice big case.


----------



## Ownedj00

skline00 said:


> JennyBeans, Trust me the 7XL is a nice big case.


Pics of your build please


----------



## JennyBeans

at this moment ... now you can see why i need a bigger case till I get my XL


----------



## Ownedj00

JennyBeans said:


> at this moment ... now you can see why i need a bigger case till I get my XL


I'm looking at changing my case to the fractal 7 series but not sure which one i want. Is that a tripple fan gpu?


----------



## Shenhua

JennyBeans said:


> whats the best fan config for an 6 ... and I can buy the fans around that configuration I have 2 140mm on top 120 mm back 120 mm bott and 2 120 front least i think the 2 in the front of the case are 12's won't matter cause, I love fractals cases and I will stay with them for a long time its just I need better air flow or I can just wait to get my XL and then buy the fans around it , long as it doesn't turn my room into an oven


If you want a proper airflow setup or better airflow, you don't need a bigger case, but a better one, or rather better set up.

Use the top and bottom panels to mount hard drives, and remove everything else unnecessary from the path of airflow, and change to a meshify s2, with 3x140 front intakes. Connecting the cables to the hdds mounted there is not easy, but you can have like 3 drives in front of the PSU, and 4-5 on the top panel.
Don't use the drive cage on the floor, and don't pile them up. Just mount them directly on the floor, cus the whole point it's to let air flow unobstructed, and manage the cables behind the right panel, don't leave any excess inside the PSU shroud, and if you have enough with the top and the right side for mounting storage, lift the case 1cm with some standoffs and add 2 more intakes in the bottom of the case (don't spin them excessively fast).

Fractal define cases have poor intake, because the side cuts in the front panel are small. You can't do nothing about that, but you can change the filter. Make one of your own, and use it instead the one that comes with the case. It has too much plastic in it......, and if you change to a meshify case, remove the foam inside the front filter or have good static pressure fans running at 1k or higher, or remove the foam (which is what i did).

Also as long as you have enough intake, you shouldn't worry about exhausts, "just open up the back" (removing the pcie covers helps) The only time that exhaust fans do something, is when you don't have enough intake, and I'm not referring to number of fans, I'm actually speaking of quantity of air moved inside. As long as you have a massive intake at the front, the air it's gonna leave the case on its own at the back.

I have a meshify C case, the same cooler, and a GPU as big as yours, and i could perfectly fit at very least 4hdd and have excellent front to back airflow (in fact i did have 2hdd in the top along the SSD http://imgur.com/gallery/2WZyLo6).


----------



## JennyBeans

Shenhua said:


> If you want a proper airflow setup or better airflow, you don't need a bigger case, but a better one, or rather better set up.
> 
> Use the top and bottom panels to mount hard drives, and remove everything else unnecessary from the path of airflow, and change to a meshify s2, with 3x140 front intakes. Connecting the cables to the hdds mounted there is not easy, but you can have like 3 drives in front of the PSU, and 4-5 on the top panel.
> Don't use the drive cage on the floor, and don't pile them up. Just mount them directly on the floor, cus the whole point it's to let air flow unobstructed, and manage the cables behind the right panel, don't leave any excess inside the PSU shroud, and if you have enough with the top and the right side for mounting storage, lift the case 1cm with some standoffs and add 2 more intakes in the bottom of the case (don't spin them excessively fast).
> 
> Fractal define cases have poor intake, because the side cuts in the front panel are small. You can't do nothing about that, but you can change the filter. Make one of your own, and use it instead the one that comes with the case. It has too much plastic in it......, and if you change to a meshify case, remove the foam inside the front filter or have good static pressure fans running at 1k or higher, or remove the foam (which is what i did).
> 
> Also as long as you have enough intake, you shouldn't worry about exhausts, "just open up the back" (removing the pcie covers helps) The only time that exhaust fans do something, is when you don't have enough intake, and I'm not referring to number of fans, I'm actually speaking of quantity of air moved inside. As long as you have a massive intake at the front, the air it's gonna leave the case on its own at the back.
> 
> I have a meshify C case, the same cooler, and a GPU as big as yours, and i could perfectly fit at very least 4hdd and have excellent front to back airflow (in fact i did have 2hdd in the top along the SSD http://imgur.com/gallery/2WZyLo6).



I have 6 hdds in mine 2 2.5 and 4 3.5 that meshify c is waaaaay to small i don't like cramped setups, looks to junky to me 





Ownedj00 said:


> I'm looking at changing my case to the fractal 7 series but not sure which one i want. Is that a tripple fan gpu?



yes she's a triple ... she's a chunky monkey that one


----------



## Asunder

Could anyone tell me if the top clearance (width-wise) for a radiator is good on the define 7 XL? Aka if tubes/rad ports would leak, do they fall on the mobo or is the case larger than it seems?


----------



## skline00

Asunder said:


> Could anyone tell me if the top clearance (width-wise) for a radiator is good on the define 7 XL? Aka if tubes/rad ports would leak, do they fall on the mobo or is the case larger than it seems?


 I'll measure mine when I get home from work tonight.

There is an error in some of the printed info about the top clearance for rads in the Fractal Define 7XL.

I have no problem with my Corsair XR7-480 rad (54mm thick) and the standard 25mm thick 120mm fans (I'm using 4 Corsair SL120s). 

I still have a slight gap between the bottom of the rad and the top of my MSI X570 Unify mb.

The case is VERY wide. No problem fitting a 420 rad and fans.


----------



## Asunder

skline00 said:


> I'll measure mine when I get home from work tonight.
> 
> There is an error in some of the printed info about the top clearance for rads in the Fractal Define 7XL.
> 
> I have no problem with my Corsair XR7-480 rad (54mm thick) and the standard 25mm thick 120mm fans (I'm using 4 Corsair SL120s).
> 
> I still have a slight gap between the bottom of the rad and the top of my MSI X570 Unify mb.
> 
> The case is VERY wide. No problem fitting a 420 rad and fans.


Thank you very much! Good to know, I'm really torn on what case to get, I would just rather avoid having the radiator above the mobo as I don't have much experience building custom loops so I really wouldn't want it to short the motherboard, but the define 7 xl seems really spacious. There aren't many good choices when it comes to bigger radiators and additional drive bays, not many cases offer both, sadly.


----------



## polar

Hello, I just ordered a Define S2 Vision Blackout. I Like glass with discreet lighting,and I like the panel on top. My favorite case of all time was the Superflower T-201 with top see through panel. The last build was in a Antec P120 crystal it looked good in the pictures but once on my desk sitting next to me it seem to tower over me and I did not care for that. I also tried a custom loop in it but I did not like how it turned out and I was not getting that coolness vibe from the Antec. 
I will not be doing another custom loop but I might be using a 360 S36 or a H150i or a Noctua NH-U12A. Really depends on how everything looks I want to go for a clean neat look, and hopefully the lower profile of the case works better on the desk.


----------



## Ownedj00

I'm looking at getting a Define 7 XL however i'm worried its not got enough airflow. Am i being silly and is it fine or should i be concerned?


----------



## skline00

Asunder, sorry for the delay in measuring the top of the 7XL. My 54mm rad and 25 mm fans come up to 79mm and there is still @6mm space to the top of my 140mm Noctua exhaust fan. A 60mm rad should fit in the top. 

Ownedj00, what cooling solutions are you using? 

The nice thing about the 7XL is it comes with the finned top cover included with no extra charge so you can swap out. 

In addition the front door is hinged and easy to open for increased air flow.


----------



## Ownedj00

skline00 said:


> Asunder, sorry for the delay in measuring the top of the 7XL. My 54mm rad and 25 mm fans come up to 79mm and there is still @6mm space to the top of my 140mm Noctua exhaust fan. A 60mm rad should fit in the top.
> 
> Ownedj00, what cooling solutions are you using?
> 
> The nice thing about the 7XL is it comes with the finned top cover included with no extra charge so you can swap out.
> 
> In addition the front door is hinged and easy to open for increased air flow.


i currently have a 360mm AIO but ide like to make a custom loop in the 7 XL.


----------



## polar

Just finishing up the build in the S2 vision. 

Question? The fine thread screws to attach the motherboard to the standoffs where to short. I went through all the screw bags and there was only 1 set of fine threaded screws supplied. They screwed into the standoffs without the motherboard but the thickness of the board was just enough to make the screws unusable. I dug up 7 so I am 1 short.

This just a fluke? New case from NewEgg.


----------



## kertsz

Hello, isn't there a specific thread of Define 7 XL?


----------



## d0mmie

I really wish there would be a Meshify 7 Compact, or at least if Fractal would sell a Meshify front as an add-on to Define 7 Compact


----------



## JackCY

It shouldn't be too hard to mod a Define with a mesh front.


----------



## gremf

Hi...
A question for the owners of Define 7 XL: a radiator *60mm thick + 2x25mm fans (push/pull, i.e. total thickness 110-115mm) + combores *will fit in *the front*?

Or will the maximum fit only 45mm radiator at push/pull + combores?

I want to install HW Black Ice SR2 420mm push/pull + Aqua D5 NEXT + Ultitube D5 100 in front.


----------



## ValoBaloo

Hey all!

Upgrading from a Define S2 to a 7XL. Going for 360 top, 420 front...but I have a EK 280SE. anyone knows if that will fit in the bottom along with 45mm 420rad+25mm fans in the front? Don't want it just be put on a shelf

Hope everyones having a lovely weekend!


----------



## skline00

gremf said:


> Hi...
> A question for the owners of Define 7 XL: a radiator *60mm thick + 2x25mm fans (push/pull, i.e. total thickness 110-115mm) + combores *will fit in *the front*?
> 
> Or will the maximum fit only 45mm radiator at push/pull + combores?
> 
> I want to install HW Black Ice SR2 420mm push/pull + Aqua D5 NEXT + Ultitube D5 100 in front.


Yes it will fit. The Hard plastic floor that extends the PSU shroud will have to be removed (easy). With the shroud removed, there is @7.5 inches from the front of the case to the front edge of the shroud. I use the plastic shroud to mount my EK D5 Pump/reservoir and still have room in the front for 360mm thin rad (30mm) and 25mm fans. Could probably fit in another set of fans for push/pull.

The bigger question is what are you do about the top. I have a Corsair XR7 480 plus 25mm fans at the top AND the Magicool 360mm rad in the front with 25mm fans.

This is a deceivingly BIG case.


----------



## skline00

ValoBaloo said:


> Hey all!
> 
> Upgrading from a Define S2 to a 7XL. Going for 360 top, 420 front...but I have a EK 280SE. anyone knows if that will fit in the bottom along with 45mm 420rad+25mm fans in the front? Don't want it just be put on a shelf
> 
> Hope everyones having a lovely weekend!


 IF you take the PSU shroud out it should fit.


----------



## gremf

skline00 said:


> Yes it will fit. The Hard plastic floor that extends the PSU shroud will have to be removed (easy). With the shroud removed, there is @7.5 inches from the front of the case to the front edge of the shroud. I use the plastic shroud to mount my EK D5 Pump/reservoir and still have room in the front for 360mm thin rad (30mm) and 25mm fans. Could probably fit in another set of fans for push/pull.
> 
> The bigger question is what are you do about the top. I have a Corsair XR7 480 plus 25mm fans at the top AND the Magicool 360mm rad in the front with 25mm fans.
> 
> This is a deceivingly BIG case.


Thank you very much for your answer.

And on top: either fans only or the 2nd radiator, but it will be thin.


----------



## Woxxi

Hello there, I was wondering if an Extended ATX MB (25.7 instead 24.4 cm) could fit in Define C ?


----------



## skline00

gremf said:


> Thank you very much for your answer.
> 
> And on top: either fans only or the 2nd radiator, but it will be thin.


Have fun. It's a wonderful case that was easy to build in. I used an MSI X570 unify with a 3900x and an Optimus cpu waterblock. I used a Radeon VII with an EK full waterblock. I have a Corsair XR7-480 rad on top with 4 Corsair ML120mm fans and a Magicool 360 thin rad with 3 120mm XSPC fans in the front. I using an EK D5-140 Pump reservoir combo. I have 32G of Gskill DDR4-3600 ram (2x16) and a Sabrent Nvme4-1TB boot drive.

Believe it or not, no overclocking BUT PBO enabled for the cpu.


----------



## Dreamliner

skline00 said:


> Have fun. It's a wonderful case that was easy to build in. I used an MSI X570 unify with a 3900x and an Optimus cpu waterblock. I used a Radeon VII with an EK full waterblock. I have a Corsair XR7-480 rad on top with 4 Corsair ML120mm fans and a Magicool 360 thin rad with 3 120mm XSPC fans in the front. I using an EK D5-140 Pump reservoir combo. I have 32G of Gskill DDR4-3600 ram (2x16) and a Sabrent Nvme4-1TB boot drive.
> 
> Believe it or not, no overclocking BUT PBO enabled for the cpu.


Sounds like you are liking your Define R7 XL! I'm ordering a Define R7 XL to replace my R4 and need to have one optical drive at the top. Will I lose one or two HDD spots? Will I still be able to fit 3x140mm fans in the front? Will I still be able to fit a 360 AIO in the top?

Any concerns with NOT being able to secure the side panels with screws? That seems like an enormous oversight.


----------



## skline00

Dreamliner said:


> Sounds like you are liking your Define R7 XL! I'm ordering a Define R7 XL to replace my R4 and need to have one optical drive at the top. Will I lose one or two HDD spots? Will I still be able to fit 3x140mm fans in the front? Will I still be able to fit a 360 AIO in the top?
> 
> Any concerns with NOT being able to secure the side panels with screws? That seems like an enormous oversight.


You should only lose 1 HDD spot but this case is so big there are plenty of other places to mount the HDD.
You should be able to fit 3x140mm fans in the front even with the 1 optical drive.

Finally I have the enormous Corsair XR7 480 rad and fans in the top. A normal 360AIO should give you room for the 1 optical drive.
If you could give me the length dimensions of both the optical drive and the AIO I can measure.

As far as the side releases, they are "different" but using a gentle nudge and getting used to doing it makes it a lot easier. I don't have to worry about losing the thumbscrews.


----------



## seckzee

72TB Node 804 Home-Server

i7-10700k
ASUS ROG z490-G mobo
32GB DDR4 3200mhz ram (16gbx2)
Corsair iCUE H100i RGB Pro XT CPU cooler
6x 12TB WD Red HDD
970 EVO SSD 500gb M.2 NVME
Corsair SF750 Platinum PSU
Lots of case fans (Noctua)


----------



## Asunder

Dreamliner said:


> Any concerns with NOT being able to secure the side panels with screws? That seems like an enormous oversight.


Just a quick note as I was really wondering about this before trying this case. The weird thing is that it states in the manual that the panels can be secured with screws via front access, yet there is no way to do it. I've checked inside and on the panels, there is no bracket with a socket where the screw would secure the side panel. Was a bit disappointed by this for what it's worth, one of the reasons I wanted a sturdy case was for transportation.


----------



## Dreamliner

If anyone in here wants to sell me some of their HDD sleds from the Define 7 series cases (6 are included), send me a PM. If you're not going to use them, I could, and you can recover some funds.


----------



## Offler

Few question regarding Fractal Node 804.

1. Deltas "covered" vs"uncovered"
I have180 watt Threadripper1900x, clocked to 4GHz on all 8cores, running Prime95 torture test and according to HWmonitor it consumes about 180w, while its still slightly undervolted.

I focused a lot on picking various fans by Noctua, placing the high-pressure ones on CPU cooler, and high-flow on unobstructed exhausts. On CPU the difference between covered and uncovered is 2-3°C on CPU, on full speed on all fans (up to 1500 RPM).

Can it get any better? I would like to see something like 1°C. Also what can i expect, in case i will remove the Threadripper for more conservative 125 watt CPU? (Different board also).

2. Are there any kits to fill in the gaps in the case?
I use 120mm fans, but on the right side there are 140mm fan mounts. It appears that hot air from the GPU cooler radiator might get sucked back into case. I might use some kind of tape, but i look for more aesthetic solution. 280 sized radiator is however not an option,fan reductions from 120 to 140... will probably not fit.


----------



## OverclockedUnicorn

Can anyone measure plastic moduvent cover on Define C case? I want to put it on meshify but it is impossible to get this cover here so i will try diy..


----------



## raggazam

Last Update, Cloud White


----------



## shilka

Didn't know there was a Fractal Design case club
Bought a Define 7 XL that was was shipped yesterday after many delays

Bought some HDD trys as well and those i got way faster despite being shipped from the UK


----------



## shilka

My Define 7 Xl Showed up today


----------



## Asunder

@shilka Nice, congrats! Thanks for sharing your thoughts/experience with the 719/Enthoo 2, I was a bit on the fence about it (I wanted to get one and frankly accept the loss on the define xl), but they confirmed a lot of the thoughts/quirks that I have with them, it definitely helped. I feel like the bar on the pc case market is already piss low, but fractal at least does some things right (and uses metal where others don't).


----------



## shilka

Asunder said:


> @shilka Nice, congrats! Thanks for sharing your thoughts/experience with the 719/Enthoo 2, I was a bit on the fence about it (I wanted to get one and frankly accept the loss on the define xl), but they confirmed a lot of the thoughts/quirks that I have with them, it definitely helped. I feel like the bar on the pc case market is already piss low, but fractal at least does some things right (and uses metal where others don't).


The 719 is either the second or THE worst case i have ever owned cant decide which is worse but in any case the 719 is terrible

I had some time to get a little work done on the Define 7 XL i removed the second HDD cage in the bottom to get more room for the PSU and cables
I changed the layout from the open to the storage layout 

Remove the stock fans and installed my spare Phanteks PH-F140MP fan in the bottom of the front

Only problem i have so far is the last of the 4 screws on the front bottom HDD cage is stuck so i wanted to move the cage forward a little bit to give me max room for cables but the screw is FUBAR

Gave up and screwed the other 3 screws back in and left it where it was since there is more than enough room already
I wont have the time to take apart the 719 and move everything to the Define 7 XL before next week

Here is another few pictures before i started working on the changes


----------



## shilka

PC transplant complete


----------



## Multiplectic

Looking good overall!
I'd rotate those fans on the CPU cooler to hide the cables tho. 

Also, it looks like your GPU could be sagging a little... Might be a good idea to support it.


----------



## shilka

Multiplectic said:


> Looking good overall!
> I'd rotate those fans on the CPU cooler to hide the cables tho.
> 
> Also, it looks like your GPU could be sagging a little... Might be a good idea to support it.


The cooler is being replaced next month or the month after so i am not going to bother as for the GPU that will be replaced after new years and i am going to figure out some way to keep the new card upright without the support blocking off PCI-E slots

I have been looking at this





GH-01 DEEPCOOL- Accessory


GH-01 - DEEPCOOL is dedicated to provide the best Laptop Cooler,CPU coolers, Computer Chassis and PC Power Supply.



www.deepcool.com





Not going to bother with the old card its already too late


----------



## Multiplectic

Fair enough. 

That DeepCool support looks awesome.


----------



## shilka

Multiplectic said:


> Fair enough.
> 
> That DeepCool support looks awesome.


Only problem is the there is not really a place where you can put the arm on an Asus TUF card without the risk of it going into the fan
The best place seems to be between the middle and last fan or maybe at the end of the card but like you can see there is not a lot of space between the fan and the edge of the card

And again if you move the PC with the holder in place you risk it going into the fans as and would be really bad








A holder like this from CM might be better








ELV8 Universal Graphic Card Holder


A smart add-on GPU brace to protect your graphics card and motherboard for longer period of use. The Cooler Master ELV8 helps reduce the sag of heavier graphics cards and the stress on PCI-e slot on the motherboard. The length and height adjustments allows it to work with almost any graphics...




www.coolermaster.com





Only problem with that is you lose the abilty to mount anything else in since the holder would block it and i am finding that the lack of SATA ports on motherboard might force me into a PCI-E based mini SAS HD HBA card like the Microchip Adaptec RAID 8805E

Either solution would have drawbacks but what i could do is buy the CM GPU holder and mount it below the GPU and mount the HBA card in the bottom PCI-E slot that way i would have room for both and there would be space between the GPU and the HBA card so the HBA card wont block one or more GPU fans


----------



## Multiplectic

I guess that you could also put the DeepCool support between the GPU card and the HDD cage and align the support arm alongside the "TUF Gaming" logo (Top right corner on that picture).


----------



## shilka

Multiplectic said:


> I guess that you could also put the DeepCool support between the GPU card and the HDD cage and align the support arm alongside the "TUF Gaming" logo (Top right corner on that picture).


I have drives in the front and they are almost as high up as the GPU
Or did i misunderstand what you meant?

Here is a video of the Deepcool GH-01





Edit: what i could do is place it sideways so the lights would be torwards the HDD´s have the the GPU holder pressed up again the drives and have the arm going from the end of card towards the back of the case instead of going in from the side and towards the motherboard

Would not bother hooking up the lights in that case as all they would do is light up the drives but the arm would have less risk of going into the fans


----------



## Asunder

@shilka check out Jayztwocents' suggestion, might be useful. I haven't really tried it because I have a ref which is a decent 2 slot, but if I switch to a thick GPU I'd look into it. 
Btw, also following your thread, looking good so far! I've been working towards modding my define xl for the past months to get some airflow going.


Aforementioned link:


----------



## shilka

Turns out Deepcool has versions with and without lights and its almost 3 times as much for the aRGB version


----------



## Multiplectic

shilka said:


> Edit: what i could do is place it sideways so the lights would be torwards the HDD´s have the the GPU holder pressed up again the drives and have the arm going from the end of card towards the back of the case instead of going in from the side and towards the motherboard


Yup, that's what I meant.


----------



## shilka

Multiplectic said:


> Yup, that's what I meant.


The GPU holder was not in stock so i did not order it together with the brand new Noctua NH-D15S Chromax or the 32 GB 3600 MHz kit i ordered but i am going to order one next week as soon as i sell my old RAM kit

As for the GPU i am thinking about switching to the Asus RTX 3070 Strix or maybe even the new AMD 6800 instead of the Asus RTX 3080 TUF

Looking at the Strix a GPU holder like the Deepcool would have more surface area to hold on to and the Strix look better i just dont want the 3080 Strix as it has requires 3x 8 pins PCI-E Cables


----------



## raggazam

Is the Meshify S2 XL front compatible with Define 7 XL?


----------



## Elrick

raggazam said:


> Is the Meshify S2 XL front compatible with Define 7 XL?


Not at all.

Has very different fittings on the FRONT bottom of the Define 7 XL case design.


----------



## Elrick

Just wondering here;

Has anyone fitted a 280mm AIO within the TOP section of the Define 7 XL case yet?

Need to see if the 3.5 inch Hard Drive section of the XL case interferes with the AIO tubing, like it does on their smaller Define 7 cases.


----------



## shilka

raggazam said:


> Is the Meshify S2 XL front compatible with Define 7 XL?


Its not


----------



## shilka

Been spoiled so much by the Define 7 XL and its quality and how easy it is to work with compared to my old Phanteks Luxe 1 so ordered the brand new Meshify S2 XL to replace the old Luxe 1

For some odd reason the version with dark glass was much cheaper than the version with light glass








Meshify 2 XL


The Meshify 2 XL is a massive high-performance case with a bold, stealth-inspired aesthetic. Its striking exterior features bolt-free, flush tempered glass, a fully removable top granting excellent interior access, and a fully redesigned front complete with USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C. The enormous...




www.fractal-design.com


----------



## Skylinestar

Is it worth the upgrade from Define R5 to R7 Compact? I'm hoping for better airflow. 
Looks like the front intake filter will be a pain to be cleaned as the whole front panel needs to be removed to access the filter, am I right? (I clean my filter every month)


----------



## Multiplectic

If you're looking for airflow, why not consider a Meshify?


----------



## Elrick

Multiplectic said:


> If you're looking for airflow, why not consider a Meshify?


Have a Define 7 XL in which I remove the front solid panel, quite easily.

The Meshify 2 XL is extremely rare and when it's displayed for sale on any retailers site (here in Convict Town) it almost vanishes in minutes.

The Define 7 XL is sold everywhere and is available for immediate shipment. Hence you are stuck with what's currently available and you make do.


----------



## shilka

Moved my older X99 system from the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe over to the Fractal Design Meshify 2 XL







Now if only i could get a new GPU to replace my 2070 Super so i could move it to the X99 machine i did buy an Asus RTX 3070 TUF OC but it had coil whine and was too slow so i returned it and i am back to the 3 GB GTX 1060 and it sucks for 1440P


Skylinestar said:


> Is it worth the upgrade from Define R5 to R7 Compact? I'm hoping for better airflow.
> Looks like the front intake filter will be a pain to be cleaned as the whole front panel needs to be removed to access the filter, am I right? (I clean my filter every month)


The Define 7 does not have better air flow if you want that the Meshify 2 is a much better option


----------



## Elrick

shilka said:


> Now if only i could get a new GPU to replace my 2070 Super so i could move it to the X99 machine i did buy an Asus RTX 3070 TUF OC but it had coil whine and was too slow so i returned it and i am back to the 3 GB GTX 1060 and it sucks for 1440P
> 
> The Define 7 does not have better air flow if you want that the Meshify 2 is a much better option


Currently using one of the kid's Sapphire 5700XT cards, which they have rejected in a stock pile. Imagine me going through the 'junk-room' looking for gear from my own kids, which have discarded it during 2020.

My Define 7 XL has decent cooling once the front door cover is removed (really useless). The 3800XT (still waiting for my 5900X) never gets over 43C (running 468 webpages in Firefox) and the 5700XT never gets over 41C (idling only).

Mind you, couldn't nab a Meshify 2 XL at all since it is currently close to Xmas and every kid has grabbed it off every web site, here in Convict Town  .


----------



## man from atlantis

Meshify S2 says hi










Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk


----------



## GeneO

Just ordered a Meshify 2 to replace my ancient Define R4. Will post when I get it and rebuild. I am air-cooling a 10700k.

Anyone have a Meshify 2?


----------



## shilka

I have the Meshify 2 XL but not the normal Meshify 2


----------



## GeneO

Yeah, I have the mid-tower. Was thinking about the XL, but I don't need all that real-estate 

Happy holidays (as far as that goes) and be safe!


----------



## shilka

GeneO said:


> Yeah, I have the mid-tower. Was thinking about the XL, but I don't need all that real-estate
> 
> Happy holidays (as far as that goes) and be safe!


My GPU is too long for me to be able to fit it into the normal Meshify 2 when i have drives in the front so i was forced to get the XL otherwise it was no drives or no GPU
I am not disappointed with the XL i really like all the extra space even if i dont use it its much better than the Phanteks 719 i had before

As for christmas we have it on the 24th here in Denmark so that was yesterday but happy holidays to you too


----------



## GeneO

Meshify 2. 
Transferred the guts from my antiquated R4 to a Meshify 2. I will probably replace the nh-d15 with a 360 CLC - if ever they are in-stock again. Really liking the case so far.

Will post better photos later.


----------



## shilka

GeneO said:


> Meshify 2.
> Transferred the guts from my antiquated R4 to a Meshify 2. I will probably replace the nh-d15 with a 360 CLC - if ever they are in-stock again. Really liking the case so far.
> Will post better photos later.


Unless your NH-D15 cant keep your CPU cool enough dont upgrade just for the sake of upgrading your system looks great


----------



## GeneO

Thanks Shilka. I would rather cool with air than water, but I would like to get my CPU about 5 degrees cooler if I can.


----------



## shilka

GeneO said:


> Thanks Shilka. I would rather cool with air than water, but I would like to get my CPU about 5 degrees cooler if I can.


In that case something like the Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer II is one of the better options
Dont get something with an Assetek pump like all the rubbish from Corsair, EVGA, Cooler Master and all the others that uses Assetek pumps

EK also have an AIO series if you like RGB


----------



## GeneO

shilka said:


> In that case something like the Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer II is one of the better options
> Dont get something with an Assetek pump like all the rubbish from Corsair, EVGA, Cooler Master and all the others that uses Assetek pumps
> 
> EK also have an AIO series if you like RGB


The ones I have been looking at are:

Arctic Freezer II 360
EK AIO 360 D-RGB
Lian Li Galahad 360

Though the Lian Li looks good and perfroms well, it seems to have pump whine. Otherwise I would go for it.
I can go with or without RGB, but less cabling for without is attractive.

Of course there are none in stock anywhere (from reputable sources)

I also want that 5c difference at the same noise level or better as I currently run with the NH-D15 with 1 fan + the 4 NF-A14 case fans. I think the case fans dominate in this high-airflow case, so they would need to run at same or lower rpm. Do not know if that is achievable.


----------



## shilka

GeneO said:


> The ones I have been looking at are:
> 
> Arctic Freezer II 360
> EK AIO 360 D-RGB
> Lian Li Galahad 360
> 
> Though the Lian Li looks good and perfroms well, it seems to have pump whine. Otherwise I would go for it.
> I can go with or without RGB, but less cabling for without is attractive.
> 
> Of course there are none in stock anywhere (from reputable sources)
> 
> I also want that 5c difference at the same noise level or better as I currently run with the NH-D15 with 1 fan + the 4 NF-A14 case fans. I think the case fans dominate in this high-airflow case, so they would need to run at same or lower rpm. Do not know if that is achievable.


All 3 of those are good options as they dont use crappy Assetek pumps
I would go for the Arctic Freezer II if you are going for best bang for buck and the EK if you want max bling

Cant recall but if the Galahad uses the new uni fans from Lian Li you can hook up to 4 fans together so they only use ONE cable for RGB and ONE cable for PWM





Or you could buy the Uni fans for any of the 3 coolers and get less cable clutter


----------



## GeneO

Am avoiding Assetek based coolers at all cost.  Thanks for the advice.

THose Lian Li fans look quite attractive. Add another $125 to a cooler though.


----------



## GeneO

Couple more pics of the Meshify 2 Dark tint:


----------



## GeneO

Ran into an issue. The front headphone jack audio sounded like crap. No bass etc. If I put pressure laterally on the jack it works as expected, so it is not making contact (never has issue with these headphones). Cut a ticket with Fractal Design, hopefully it is field replaceable (expect the FP header is, it is screwed into the case).


----------



## GeneO

shilka said:


> All 3 of those are good options as they dont use crappy Assetek pumps
> I would go for the Arctic Freezer II if you are going for best bang for buck and the EK if you want max bling
> 
> Cant recall but if the Galahad uses the new uni fans from Lian Li you can hook up to 4 fans together so they only use ONE cable for RGB and ONE cable for PWM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could buy the Uni fans for any of the 3 coolers and get less cable clutter


The Galahad doesn't have the UNI fans as far as I can tell.

EK AIO 360 d-RGB just came in stock at Amazon sold-by EK at suggested price. Ordered one, should get here in a few days. if I don't like the fans, I will look into the UNI as replacements. If there is not a significant performance difference (with noise a consideration) over the NH-D15 I will stay on air and sell the EK.

From my research, there just seemed to be too many issues with the Arctic Freezer for my taste, and they just are not available (from a reputable dealer for a reasonable price). The Arctic and EK performed pretty close, and they are both not Assetek  Again performance outweighs bling.


----------



## Skylinestar

Multiplectic said:


> If you're looking for airflow, why not consider a Meshify?


Because I would prefer something quiet too.


----------



## GeneO

7c cooler and a bit quieter @ 75% fans than nh-d15.  Only one pump orientation (connectors up) has clearance on the Rog Hero XII 
RAM runs hotter, so I put VRM fan that came with the motherboard (VRM temps fine under load) in use to cool the RAM based on temp probe placed in the RAM.


----------



## 331149

Skylinestar said:


> Because I would prefer something quiet too.


If you want quiet, go with Define. Oh and they have really good airflow as well. Meshify is a dust bunny  I'm still using my little Define C, and I have 2x 140mm Noctua NF-A14 sucking air in, and one NF-S12A to get rid of hot air. Not only are they ultra quiet, you also get a 6 year no questions asked warranty. Chances are however, if you take good care of them (remove dust) they'll last well over 10 years. Hell I'm still using the original fans that came with my NH-D14 that I ordered in 2013 

You do get some subpar fans included with Fractal cases, I was not impressed at all. They stink really bad (literally stinking of old burnt plastic) and they move almost no air at all. They are quiet, but if they dont move any air at all, they are useless. The fans included were the "Fractal Design Dynamic X2". 100% trash.


----------



## shilka

The fans you get on both the Define 7 and the Meshify 2 are useless so i ditched them in both my Define 7 XL and my Meshify 2 XL
I am using Phanteks 140MP fans in my Define 7 XL and Arctic P14 fans in my Meshify 2 XL

The point is you will need better fans no matter which of the two you go with


----------



## GeneO

I have never used the provided Fractal fans, though I was a little surprised that the fans on the Meshify were not PWM.

I have used the same fans on my new Meshify 2 as my Define R4 - Noctua Chromax A14.

I have not yet experienced any dust in my Meshify 2. It is completely covered by filters.

My Meshify 2 is as quiet as my Define R4 was at the same thermals. I can run the case fans at a lower maximum speed with the same thermal results so about the same or quieter with the Meshify. And I haven't fully optimized yet.

Just my experience.

I think I might look into getting the Lian Li Uni 3 set of fans for front intake to replace the Noctua, or swap with the EK AIO 360 fans (which would then go in the front intake).


----------



## shilka

It would be far less cables as you would only have 4 cables instead of 9
The EK fans has two cables per fan one for RGB and one for PWM the Noctua fans only have PWM so thats only one per cable per fan

I would replace the EK fans and get rid of the bigest cable clutter


----------



## GeneO

I may just do that


----------



## Skylinestar

TheBDK said:


> If you want quiet, go with Define.


Do you think it (7) is a big upgrade from the R5? While I do love the overall design of the 7, I worry that frequent (at least once a month) removal of the front bezel would pre-maturely wear out and damage the front "snap-on" attachments. I have terrible experience with Lian Li due to this design. The Corsair 4000D and the latest 5000D has the similar front snap-on like the Lian Li and I worry about these too. Are these snap on things made of metal nowadays?


----------



## 331149

Skylinestar said:


> Do you think it (7) is a big upgrade from the R5? While I do love the overall design of the 7, I worry that frequent (at least once a month) removal of the front bezel would pre-maturely wear out and damage the front "snap-on" attachments. I have terrible experience with Lian Li due to this design. The Corsair 4000D and the latest 5000D has the similar front snap-on like the Lian Li and I worry about these too. Are these snap on things made of metal nowadays?


I've had my Define C for 2 years now, and I remove the front every 2 weeks in order to clean out the filter. It still works like it did on day one  So that's nothing to worry about. Oh and it's all plastic.


----------



## Shenhua

Skylinestar said:


> Because I would prefer something quiet too.


A mesh case it's always gonna be quieter than a solid front panel, unless the load is not high enough to show the difference for the volume of the case.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## Shenhua

TheBDK said:


> If you want quiet, go with Define. Oh and they have really good airflow as well. Meshify is a dust bunny  I'm still using my little Define C, and I have 2x 140mm Noctua NF-A14 sucking air in, and one NF-S12A to get rid of hot air. Not only are they ultra quiet, you also get a 6 year no questions asked warranty. Chances are however, if you take good care of them (remove dust) they'll last well over 10 years. Hell I'm still using the original fans that came with my NH-D14 that I ordered in 2013
> 
> You do get some subpar fans included with Fractal cases, I was not impressed at all. They stink really bad (literally stinking of old burnt plastic) and they move almost no air at all. They are quiet, but if they dont move any air at all, they are useless. The fans included were the "Fractal Design Dynamic X2". 100% trash.


Every case is a dust bunny if is not set right.
Especially the closed ones, because they need to brute force more air than a mesh case, so you with brute force you will always have more dust.

Set starting temperature for the fans. Enjoy silence and 10 times less dust.

Also 2x140mm front intake it's a pretty poor fan configuración for that case. I know it's the standard and i know even gn uses it for standardized with non stock fans.
GPU is choked by the case for being too short and and by the PSU shroud. It's highly improvable.

3x120 front intake or 2x140+120 and even 1x140 intake at slow rpm, instead of the drive cage, makes easily for a 10°C improvement.


----------



## 331149

Shenhua said:


> Every case is a dust bunny if is not set right.
> Especially the closed ones, because they need to brute force more air than a mesh case, so you with brute force you will always have more dust.
> 
> Set starting temperature for the fans. Enjoy silence and 10 times less dust.
> 
> Also 2x140mm front intake it's a pretty poor fan configuración for that case. I know it's the standard and i know even gn uses it for standardized with non stock fans.
> GPU is choked by the case for being too short and and by the PSU shroud. It's highly improvable.
> 
> 3x120 front intake or 2x140+120 and even 1x140 intake at slow rpm, instead of the drive cage, makes easily for a 10°C improvement.


lol


----------



## Shenhua

Meshify 2. 474mm height, 454 without protrusions. Front fan support 3x120 or 3x140mm.
Meshify 2 compact. 475mm height, 455 without protrusions. Front fan support, 3x120 or 2x140.

That,....... knowing there's so many of us that crammed 2x140+120 in the front of the first meshify C. Product segmentation? even with that, common sense goes down the drain.


----------



## Skylinestar

Shenhua said:


> Meshify 2. 474mm height, 454 without protrusions. Front fan support 3x120 or 3x140mm.
> Meshify 2 compact. 475mm height, 455 without protrusions. Front fan support, 3x120 or 2x140.
> 
> That,....... knowing there's so many of us that crammed 2x140+120 in the front of the first meshify C. Product segmentation? even with that, common sense goes down the drain.


I'm disappointed with the front fan mounting options and the narrower width (210mm instead of 240mm).


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## Von Clausewitz

A while back I upgraded my Meshify C to a Define 7. Main reasons: one of the kids needed a case for his new computer and I wanted something a bit roomier and quieter. The Define 7 indeed is more quiet and the extra space came in rather handy when I upgraded the graphics card as well - the baby blue whale sized gpu wouldn't fit in the Meshify C since the 280mm AiO couldn't be moved to the top (too big and the DIMMs are too tall). For cooling I'm using 140mm Fractal fans, the ones that came with the case, the Celsius+ and two additional ones. These keep the cpu and gpu sufficiently cool, mostly near inaudible. This is the airflow:









However, I'm wondering if Noctua's could make a noticeable difference regarding noise - the Fractals sometimes have to spin rather fast to keep everything cool if I push the computer (16 cores and this gpu can generate a bit of heat).

I'm very happy with the Define 7. I like the design, it has a good quality feel to it, dampens the sound and it was also a pleasure to build a system in. Because I had the Meshify I was a bit unsure if the front wouldn't limit the airflow too much, but that is not the case


----------



## Shenhua

Von Clausewitz said:


> However, I'm wondering if Noctua's could make a noticeable difference regarding noise - the Fractals sometimes have to spin rather fast to keep everything cool if I push the computer (16 cores and this gpu can generate a bit of heat).
> 
> I'm very happy with the Define 7. I like the design, it has a good quality feel to it, dampens the sound and it was also a pleasure to build a system in.


Sounds like a contradiction to me. You're happy with the case and the fact that it dampens sound, but you're wondering if with a fan change, you could reduce noise.......
Call it what it is and face it. You made a bad choice. Thermally, it's a bad case. Quality and a high price tag, doesn't ensure performance. There are 40$ cases that can easily outperform this one. If you wanted less noise in the meshify C, you should've played with fan placement, better fans, fan curve. It's not the best case, and it has many flaws, but they can be corrected without modding it permanently, and configured right, has the potential to be the best airflow case in the market. Also that case it's perfect for air cooling, so the AIO was a bad choice.

Srry to tell you, but fractal fans, are really, and i mean really bad, but you won't fix the problem only with a change of fans.

Silent case it's a dumb concept. It's a like a dog chasing its own tail and never catches it. 
In order to let noise escape less you're reducing the holes, but that reduces airflow so you need to compensate, by speeding up the fans. The more you restrict noise, the more you restrict airflow and the more you need to push fans, creating more noise.

To give you a reference from the back of my head, so you can gauge what I'm trying to say, with good fans and very unrestricted airflow, you would be running fans at less than half the speed for the same temperature.

A half assed fix would be to change front intake fans to sw3 or nf a14, mount the AIO on the top, and change its fans for arctic p14 pwm.
Then undervolt or find the peak efficiency of the CPU, then make a custom fan curve.

Further more you should remove top filter, and you could modify or create your own front filter, as the fractal one has "2kg" of plastic restricting airflow (looks like fractal haven't learned yet how to make a filter.....ik there's logic behind those plastic fins, but again, its the dog chasing its own tail), and even modify the front panel to mesh, or directly use mesh with 1mm holes when modding the front panel, so you eliminate the need for a filter.
This last paragraph would eliminate the need for a new case in the new one.

A good fix, would be to change case, cooler, fans, undervolt and make a custom fan curve. Maybe even modify the GPU wirh 120mm fans. That could perfectly bring your PC to ambient noise floor when under heavy load, but it's not something will happen without a lot of fiddling and chosing the right hardware.


----------



## Von Clausewitz

Could indeed be interpreted as a contradiction, but what I mean is there is always room to improve - a good compromise can be made into a better compromise. My thinking was that replacing the Fractal fans - they indeed displace as little air as a coughing mouse, only when they spin very fast they really start to move air - can further improve the sound during peak load because the replacements could do with less rpm. 

The thermal challenge I have are not cpu and gpu (max 74° and 69° C, with very little fan noise) but the graphics card backplate can radiate a lot of heat during extended intense load (GDDR6X can get very hot), this starts to heat up the neighboring components NVMe SSD and DIMMs. That's why the case fans need to spin up after a while during extended gpu memory load. 


But I believe you're probably right and replacing some or all case fans is not a quick fix to this challenge and I should look at the real issue: cooling the gpu backplate.


----------



## vangsfreaken

I agree, the concept of "silent cases" are dumb... Instead of trying to block the sound one should try to avoid it to begin with.
The most silent computer i've ever built was actually in a haf x, with a i7 [email protected] with a nh-d14. With triple fans turned down to the point where they struggled to start and a generally open case with huge fans i never even heard it. Never exceeded 50°c, gpu never ramped above 50% and psu never turned on. 

Sent fra min AC2003 via Tapatalk


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## Shenhua

Von Clausewitz said:


> Could indeed be interpreted as a contradiction, but what I mean is there is always room to improve - a good compromise can be made into a better compromise. My thinking was that replacing the Fractal fans - they indeed displace as little air as a coughing mouse, only when they spin very fast they really start to move air - can further improve the sound during peak load because the replacements could do with less rpm.
> 
> The thermal challenge I have are not cpu and gpu (max 74° and 69° C, with very little fan noise) but the graphics card backplate can radiate a lot of heat during extended intense load (GDDR6X can get very hot), this starts to heat up the neighboring components NVMe SSD and DIMMs. That's why the case fans need to spin up after a while during extended gpu memory load.
> 
> 
> But I believe you're probably right and replacing some or all case fans is not a quick fix to this challenge and I should look at the real issue: cooling the gpu backplate.


The ggdr might be hot, but doesn't create thst much heat, because it doesn't eat that much. The fact that the GPU backplate is hot, is because it's doing its job.

You need better front to back airflow. If you gonna stick with the case and the cooler, get the fans i sugested. They're a good investment. If sw3 or nf a14 are too expensive, ph f140mp, ty14x or even p14 are decent alternatives.

A p14 pwm pack of 5 will get you around 35 bucks at MSRP price, mount the AIO on the top and use the perforated panel, without filter.


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## Shenhua

vangsfreaken said:


> I agree, the concept of "silent cases" are dumb... Instead of trying to block the sound one should try to avoid it to begin with.


Exactly my point.


vangsfreaken said:


> The most silent computer i've ever built was actually in a haf x, with a i7 [email protected] with a nh-d14. With triple fans turned down to the point where they struggled to start and a generally open case with huge fans i never even heard it. Never exceeded 50°c, gpu never ramped above 50% and psu never turned on.


I have something very similar in a meshify C and a d15 (with front fan removed and mounted in the bottom of the case instead of the drive cage). Under load my fans run at 500-600rpm.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


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## Von Clausewitz

The heat from the backplate isn't expelled properly indeed. It creates, together with poor airflow in that location, a 'hot spot' in the case. It's what I meant with cooling the backplate: get its heat out of that spot. 

Have switched the rad to the top (very tight fit, even had to cut a bit of plastic from one of the fans) and placed 3 intake fans in the front, this has a positive effect on the hot spot - DIMMs, NVMe and chipset are less warm. Also the gpu fans make less rpm. It apparently creates more horizontal airflow in the case  The cpu of course get warmer, but as long as it stays within spec I don't care. I will run it in this configuration for some time and see how it goes, but initial experience is positive.


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## Shenhua

Get 2x p14 fans for the radiador. Belive me, they are much better than anything else out there.

The p12 is on a12x25 level of performance, but there's no a14x25, so those are next best thing.

Compared to sw3 or nf a14, which are top fans, the p14 will run about 200rpm faster at the same noise, and create even more static pressure.
Compared to the fractals you have on the AIO they are in a completely different league. The only downside with them, is that being so cheap and low cost, some of the units have qualtiy control issues, and have a high pitch wine around 1000-1200 zone. Depends on the unit, and it's not present on most.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


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## d0mmie

Define R6 case with 6 x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM fans setup with 3 x intake (max 1400 RPM) and 3 x exhaust (max 1200 RPM). This setup has a 'nice' sound profile, not too annoying and loud. CPU is a Ryzen 3900X with an EK-AIO D-RGB 240 something (hits max 75C in Cinebench R20 loop, max 70C with gaming) and gfx card is the MSI RTX 3080 Suprim X 10G (hits max 68C on full load). All fans are controlled with an Aqua Computer Quadro PWM controller with a temperature sensor mounted in the top for ambient temps, and a sensor directly mounted on a hotspot on the AIO radiator.

With this setup I have no issues with noise or heat and even if I take off the side panel or open up the front, the temperature differences are about 2C degrees.



Spoiler


----------



## Von Clausewitz

Tried something differently. With the AIO rad in the top the cpu temps increased and the all-core boost decreased. So, I reverted back to the original situation with the rad in the front. But now removed the HDD-cage and the plastic cover directly above it and placed two additional intake fans at the floor of the case. These two fans now provide cool air to the gpu (previously the gpu mainly got pre-heated air from the rad). Effect: gpu stays cooler, decreasing the hotspot that occurs during extended load between backplate, NVMe and DIMMs, and all fans now run quieter at extended full load 

However, the airflow at the hotspot remains poor, so next step is some A14 fans to help increase airflow without increasing noise (and re-test with the rad at the top). I'm already content with this new situation but like to try to further improve upon it.


----------



## KeenersDream

Can anyone with a Define 7 XL or Meshify 2 XL let me know if a 420 in the top and 480 in the front would fit? The 420 is 36mm wide and the 480 is 56mm wide.


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## KeenersDream

Well I can say first hand experience that a 480 and 420 doesn't fit. Yet again I'm left completely underwhelmed by the water-cooling capabilities of a Fractal case, doubly-so considering it's an "XL" case. The radiator/fan bracket that's on the top is probably one of my main sources of frustration, it cleverly disguises the fact that you can probably mount a rad to it but good luck actually reinstalling the bracket back into the case due to all of the metal lips and plastic retention pieces getting in the way. I'm ordering 2 420 rads since there seems to be a lot more space for those generally and with my Phanteks reservoir the X-flow radiator outlet on the bottom makes a lot more sense considering the inlet is on the bottom of the res.


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## ElevenEleven

I have switched to a FD Define 7 Compact from a FD Define R3, and in many ways it's been a downgrade. For example the overall noise from the system. But this particular issue is pretty bothersome, and I'm wondering if anyone else here has experienced it and found a solution:

The front panel tends to buzz with a high pitched element to the overall sound profile. There's some kind of a resonance with the front panel. If I push the panel with my thumb at the top by the illuminated power indicator insert toward the power button, the buzzing can increase in volume or stop and goes back and forth. If I touch the front panel, I feel it faintly vibrating. 

My single hard drive is sitting on sorbothane strips and so is as decoupled as possible in that case. The location of the drive did not make any difference--the sound originates higher up toward the power button.


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## d0mmie

ElevenEleven said:


> I have switched to a FD Define 7 Compact from a FD Define R3, and in many ways it's been a downgrade. For example the overall noise from the system. But this particular issue is pretty bothersome, and I'm wondering if anyone else here has experienced it and found a solution:
> 
> The front panel tends to buzz with a high pitched element to the overall sound profile. There's some kind of a resonance with the front panel. If I push the panel with my thumb at the top by the illuminated power indicator insert toward the power button, the buzzing can increase in volume or stop and goes back and forth. If I touch the front panel, I feel it faintly vibrating.
> 
> My single hard drive is sitting on sorbothane strips and so is as decoupled as possible in that case. The location of the drive did not make any difference--the sound originates higher up toward the power button.


All cases can suffer from resonance when two metal plates connect, it really comes down to luck but I don't believe this is a big problem. I've had it happen with a Define R5 and R6, but my last one which was a Define 7 Compact did not have this issue at all. If it's really bad (like a top panel being slightly misaligned or similar) I'd contact Fractal support, but else you can try and find the spot that's causing the problem and put some of that thin black thermal tape in between where the metal plates connect. I had to do this on my side panels for my R6, and it fixed it.


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## ElevenEleven

It is so noticeable even from a few feet away, a constant buzz until I touch the front case panel. The top panel is not causing it. It seems to be something to do with the front panel specifically. Also checked the top and bottom filters--they are not the culprit. The two front fans are at low RPM 140mm white FD fans mounted on silicone Noctua standoff things (all the system fans are either dampened with rubber or on those Noctua silicone fasteners.) 

It could also be the side tempered glass panel. I'm going to write to Fractal Design customer service.


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## Multiplectic

Do you have HDDs? (As in, more than one)
If so, how did you mount them?
They might be in resonance.


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## Dreamliner

I just put my Define 7XL together (coming from a R4) and I have several HDD's loaded in the front. I noticed the HDD trays themselves are buzzing on the case frame somehow. I've messaged Fractal but the fix is likely to either be felt tape and/or screws for those front screw holes I saw between the slide tab & peg for the trays. (but don't see any screws for in that ginormous accessory box). 

Seems like a handful of small design oversights: I kind of wish they stuck with regular caddies like the old cases, within 10 minutes I noticed the buzzing. Also, the room behind the MB seems to be unnecessarily tight, and they knew it too, that's why they included that plastic thing. It was just enough for me, but an extra .5" would have been nice. Finally, no thumbscrews to hold the case doors on, really?


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## shilka

Dreamliner said:


> I just put my Define 7XL together (coming from a R4) and I have several HDD's loaded in the front. I noticed the HDD trays themselves are buzzing on the case frame somehow. I've messaged Fractal but the fix is likely to either be felt tape and/or screws for those front screw holes I saw between the slide tab & peg for the trays. (but don't see any screws for in that ginormous accessory box).
> 
> Seems like a handful of small design oversights: I kind of wish they stuck with regular caddies like the old cases, within 10 minutes I noticed the buzzing. Also, the room behind the MB seems to be unnecessarily tight, and they knew it too, that's why they included that plastic thing. It was just enough for me, but an extra .5" would have been nice. Finally, no thumbscrews to hold the case doors on, really?


Did you screw the trays in from both the front and back ? if you did only screw in from the back thats why they buzz


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## Dreamliner

shilka said:


> Did you screw the trays in from both the front and back ? if you did only screw in from the back thats why they buzz


I did not see a screw in the box that fit the holes in front. the threads were too small/skinny. What fits in there?


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## shilka

Dreamliner said:


> I did not see a screw in the box that fit the holes in front. the threads were too small/skinny. What fits in there?


Sory for the bad pictures but the camera cant really focus on such a tiny screw
Anyway you will need to use these but i cant recall if i got mine with the case or with the extra trays i bought















I might have gotten them with the extra trays
I have run out of them and that one above is my last one so i am thinking of sending an email to Fractal asking if i can buy some more of them

Edit: here is a better picture


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## Dreamliner

shilka said:


> Sory for the bad pictures but the camera cant really focus on such a tiny screw
> Anyway you will need to use these but i cant recall if i got mine with the case or with the extra trays i bought
> 
> I might have gotten them with the extra trays
> I have run out of them and that one above is my last one so i am thinking of sending an email to Fractal asking if i can buy some more of them
> 
> Edit: here is a better picture


Thanks for the photos. The "extra screws" that came with the trays are M3 screws and don't fit into those holes. They are used for SSD's I think.

I don't have any screws like what you show at all. I wonder if the 6-32 screw is meant for that spot. It would be the same screws used to hold the motherboard in, my case came with 20 of them.

I learned a long time ago to not just try screws, once you mess up the thread it will be forever ruined. Since it is has paint in the threads, no matter what screw I use it will feel like I'm cross threading so I want to make certain I really use the right ones.


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## shilka

Dreamliner said:


> Thanks for the photos. The "extra screws" that came with the trays are M3 screws and don't fit into those holes. They are used for SSD's I think.
> 
> I don't have any screws like what you show at all. I wonder if the 6-32 screw is meant for that spot. It would be the same screws used to hold the motherboard in, my case came with 20 of them.
> 
> I learned a long time ago to not just try screws, once you mess up the thread it will be forever ruined. Since it is has paint in the threads, no matter what screw I use it will feel like I'm cross threading so I want to make certain I really use the right ones.


I cant recall where i got those screws from they might have been from my Meshify 2 XL since i threw all the Fractal screws in the same box
Anyway the trays will buzz if you dont screw them in place from both sides

Edit: sent an email to Fractal asking if i could buy more of those screws i sent you a picture of and they said they would send a me a few for free since they are spare parts
Great customer service by Fractal

I only have one of those screws left and i got 8 spare trays with none of those screws to go with them


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## ElevenEleven

Multiplectic said:


> Do you have HDDs? (As in, more than one)
> If so, how did you mount them?
> They might be in resonance.


Only a single HDD. It's not even mounted--it's sitting on sorbothane strips to dampen any vibrations. I've reached out to Fractal Design customer support at this point. The front panel just seems to amplify any vibrations and brings them into the audible range, and the side tempered glass panel isn't helping. If I remove the glass panel, the buzzing practically disappears (or at least becomes inaudible). I can still feel the front aluminum panel vibrating under my palm, whereas other parts of the case don't resonate much.


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## therealjustin

I am currently in the process of gathering parts for a new build and the Define 7 arrived first. So far I have been through three of them due to poor quality which really surprised me. My R4 is a damn tank! After really looking into thermals and the ****ty stock fans, I am concerned for my planned 5800X and 3070. Seriously thinking of going 4000D Airflow because the Define 7 has been a disappointment and I haven't even properly built in it yet.


----------



## shilka

Just replace the stock fans you can get a 5 fan pack of Arctic P14 140mm fans for $59





Are you a human?







www.newegg.com





Or better yet pick a case that has better air flow like the Meshify 2 which is exactly the same case just with a mesh front panel








Fractal Design Meshify 2 Black ATX Flexible Dark Tinted Tempered Glass Window Mid Tower Computer Case - Newegg.com


Buy Fractal Design Meshify 2 Black ATX Flexible Dark Tinted Tempered Glass Window Mid Tower Computer Case with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!




www.newegg.com


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## ElevenEleven

therealjustin said:


> I am currently in the process of gathering parts for a new build and the Define 7 arrived first. So far I have been through three of them due to poor quality which really surprised me. My R4 is a damn tank! After really looking into thermals and the ****ty stock fans, I am concerned for my planned 5800X and 3070. Seriously thinking of going 4000D Airflow because the Define 7 has been a disappointment and I haven't even properly built in it yet.


I also prefer my R3 to Define 7 (mine is D7 Compact). Heavier duty build, better noise insulation and vibration dampening. I like the smaller size of D7 Compact, and it looks nicer, and the bottom PSU shroud/shelf is kinda nice, but the glossy white powdercoating on R3 is better, thermals-even with the top of the case covered with dampening foam--and almost everything else.


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## therealjustin

I wanted the Meshify 2 but Amazon and Walmart are both sold out right now; same with most Define 7 models too. I like to buy from online retailers that allow free returns because of past issues, like spending $45 to ship a damaged case back. Perhaps Newegg might be okay with it?


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## ElevenEleven

ElevenEleven said:


> The front panel does come off easily, but not too easily for me to worry about it. The USB ports are REALLY tight (as are the audio ports). My USB 3.0 front port actually *popped out* by half an inch or so yesterday when I was pulling out a cord and I had to push it back in. I'm more careful now. Front audio works, no problems, as do all of the USB ports. Can't help with lighting as I'm using a kind that changes colors with a dial.
> Quote:


So ^ that happened back in 2013, and I've been using the case as is, since it's been seemingly impossible to pop the USB 3.0 front ports back into the front panel of my Define R3 and get them to stay down. Now I'm considering selling the case with some left-over components put together into a complete system, and the case is still in excellent condition. Except for those front USB ports. Has this happened to anyone else with a Define front panel, and were you able to do something to fix it? I can't find how the USB ports are held down to the panel, even after removing the panel from the case and inspecting the ports. The 2 USB 2.0 ports seem to bee firmly held and never budged, but the 3.0 ports just slide freely up and down--but only as far as their base. I.e. you can get the ports lifted about half and inch upward, but that's the extent of it.


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## Mergatroid

Hello all.

I have just ordered my first Fractal case. I picked the Meshify 2 XL. Should be here this week. It will be replacing the Corsair 760T I have been using for the last six or seven years. I'm going to be sad to give up my blu-ray drive, but I decided it was time for an update for the case. It took me about a year to pick one because of how nice the 760T is, but the Meshify 2 XL looks to suit most of my needs, and is a more modern case. Honestly I'm not too thrilled about the design they put in the mesh, but everything else is awesome.

I might try and figure out a way to mount a 5 1/4" drive bay under the PSU shroud, which wouldn't exactly be handy but would at least let me watch my optical disks. It's either that or an external USB blu-ray drive.

I'll post my results here if that's OK.


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## shilka

Mergatroid said:


> Hello all.
> 
> I have just ordered my first Fractal case. I picked the Meshify 2 XL. Should be here this week. It will be replacing the Corsair 760T I have been using for the last six or seven years. I'm going to be sad to give up my blu-ray drive, but I decided it was time for an update for the case. It took me about a year to pick one because of how nice the 760T is, but the Meshify 2 XL looks to suit most of my needs, and is a more modern case. Honestly I'm not too thrilled about the design they put in the mesh, but everything else is awesome.
> 
> I might try and figure out a way to mount a 5 1/4" drive bay under the PSU shroud, which wouldn't exactly be handy but would at least let me watch my optical disks. It's either that or an external USB blu-ray drive.
> 
> I'll post my results here if that's OK.


The Define 7 XL has room for two 5,25 devices if you need it that much
Its the same cases as the Meshify 2 XL on the inside


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## The Pook

therealjustin said:


> I wanted the Meshify 2 but Amazon and Walmart are both sold out right now; same with most Define 7 models too. I like to buy from online retailers that allow free returns because of past issues, like spending $45 to ship a damaged case back. Perhaps Newegg might be okay with it?


Does Newegg not anymore? They used to, but the last time I had to return anything I got from them was ~5 years ago.


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## nickt1862

Mergatroid said:


> Hello all.
> 
> I have just ordered my first Fractal case. I picked the Meshify 2 XL. Should be here this week. It will be replacing the Corsair 760T I have been using for the last six or seven years. I'm going to be sad to give up my blu-ray drive, but I decided it was time for an update for the case. It took me about a year to pick one because of how nice the 760T is, but the Meshify 2 XL looks to suit most of my needs, and is a more modern case. Honestly I'm not too thrilled about the design they put in the mesh, but everything else is awesome.
> 
> I might try and figure out a way to mount a 5 1/4" drive bay under the PSU shroud, which wouldn't exactly be handy but would at least let me watch my optical disks. It's either that or an external USB blu-ray drive.
> 
> I'll post my results here if that's OK.


Enclosure for your 5.25" blu-ray drive - just food for thought.

*Vantec NST-536S3-BK NexStar DX USB 3.0 External Enclosure for SATA Blu-Ray/CD/DVD Drive all black*


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRUN0HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Mergatroid

shilka said:


> The Define 7 XL has room for two 5,25 devices if you need it that much
> Its the same cases as the Meshify 2 XL on the inside



Thanks for the suggestion, but I bought a case with no 5 1/4" bays on purpose. I knew I would need to do something about the blu-ray drive. I might go with the external case, or I might try and mod something under the PS shroud.



nickt1862 said:


> Enclosure for your 5.25" blu-ray drive - just food for thought.
> 
> *Vantec NST-536S3-BK NexStar DX USB 3.0 External Enclosure for SATA Blu-Ray/CD/DVD Drive all black*
> 
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRUN0HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That is a great find. I was looking for cases on Amazon and all I found was a chinese case at a crazy price. I might go for this if I decide against modding the interior of the PSU shroud.

My case just arrived at work, and I will be starting on it tonight. Hate having my PC down that long, but the end result will be worth it. Likely have it done tomorrow. Lucky for me it's just a case swap, no software installation required.


----------



## Mergatroid

OK, case arrived and I did the install.

I have to say this is by no means a perfect case, if there is such a thing. However, overall it's a very nice case even if it is missing a hard drive LED. 

So everything transferred perfectly, and everything worked first time I tried it. It's filled with Rainbow Puke RGB, which I personally like. So, if you have a reaction to RGB, maybe skip ahead...




























The last things I want to do are lower the top RGB strip a bit (I lost my clips for it somehow and only had three to use). Once I find where I put them, I will lower the strip a bit and get it fixed at the front top corner. I also need to wrap the end of one of the strips with electrical tape in the rear top corner so we don't see a double strip there.

I ordered the USB case for the blu-ray drive, so I can still use it. I am still investigating doing a mod under the PSU shroud to add an optical drive bay there. I don't use it much anymore but occasionally I like to watch a movie on blu-ray, or more often watch a TV series on DVD (right now there is a Babylon 5 disk in the drive).

If anyone is interested:

ASUS Z490-A Motherboard
Intel i7 10700K @ 5GHz
32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4 RAM
Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3070 Vision OC 8GB GPU
2 x 1TB NVMe SSD, 3 x SATA SSD (500 and 2 x 1T)
Thermaltake Water 3.0 360mm AIO CPU Cooler
Fans are 3 x 140mm Antec Prizm PWM fans front, 4 x 120mm on rad and rear exhaust
1 x XPG 24 pin RGB cable extension
2 x XPG 8 pin RGB Cable Extensions
Custom Star Trek RGB SSD Covers, 1 x Custom Star Trek RGB GPU Support (available at etsy.com, you supply the picture you want)

Other than the new case this build has been a work in progress since spring 2020, which at the time had a Gigabyte Windforce RTX 2070, which I sold when I purchased the 3070 last January (there's a story behind that if anyone is interested).

Nice case. I do have a few critiques but no case is perfect.


----------



## meddio

*TLDR: Should I choose Define R5 or Define R6 to reduce HDD noise?*

Hello dear Fractal Design fans. I need your advice on choosing the *SILENT *Fractal case for my home office.
Currently I use Fractal Design *Midi R2* (I've got two of them)*.*

Midi R2 is a good case from the build comfort and air cooling point of view.
Nice case airflow is further improved by Noctua A14 fans. GPU never heats.
And overclocked CPU is easily tamed with huge Phanteks TC14PE cooler during rendering.

But A14 and TC14PE are surprisingly not the loudest components. *The humming noise and resonating vibration
from 5 HDDs are slowly killing me. Midi R2 does nothing to block HDD noise. Rubber washers are just for show.*

I am currently looking at 2 old models in stock - *Define R5* and *Define R6* (Define 7 costs 50% more, so it's out of the picture for now).

Define R5 has HDD cages similar to Midi R2 (same mounts, same rubber washers, same construction prone to vibration)
Define R6 has 6 HDD plates which can be placed with intervals for better airflow
(but R6 has diagonal mounting points for HDD plates - I cannot guess whether it is bad or good for keeping HDD quiet).

I have never seen silent case review/comparison that covers HDD noise, so the forum is the only place to get this info.

1) Is there a point in considering Define R5 in 2021? Does the older model have any significant advantages over R6?

2) Which of these two cases does a better job blocking the noise coming from HDD motors and HDD case vibration?... If at all?

3) I would appreciate any thoughts and impressions from someone who switched from high-airflow case (like Midi R2) to the Fractal silent case (like Define R6). Was the drop in cooling capabilities significant?

4) The motherboard that I had to buy has angled SATA-ports, pointed to the front of the case (not classic, straight and easy to use), and Midi R2 gives me pain each time I need to change some sata-cables (because the sata-ports go right to the edge of HDD cage, leaving small area to hold the cable connector). What's your experience with Define R6 and R5? I cannot find any case photos covering this issue to make a comparison.

I don't intend to switch to water-cooling. The large tower CPU-cooler (TC14PE) will move to this new case together with some efficient case fans (Noctua A14 or Thermalright TY-147A SQ). And I'll have the case front door open during heavy loads.

PS: I intended to migrate to some larger HDDs (to replace 5 drives with only 2) or 10GbE NAS later this year, but Chia-nonsense happened, so for now the silent case is a cheaper option for me.

PS 2. The only thing to completely eliminate the HDD vibration in my case was this Chinese thingy: the 5.25'' adapter for 3.5'' with silicone suspension, $5 per drive.
But it takes 1.5 vertical spaces, and for 5 hdds I'd need some ancient case with 5.25 mounts only, not suitable for modern cases. Seems a bit extreme.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

meddio said:


> *TLDR: Should I choose Define R5 or Define R6 to reduce HDD noise?*
> 
> Hello dear Fractal Design fans. I need your advice on choosing the *SILENT *Fractal case for my home office.
> Currently I use Fractal Design *Midi R2* (I've got two of them)*.*
> 
> Midi R2 is a good case from the build comfort and air cooling point of view.
> Nice case airflow is further improved by Noctua A14 fans. GPU never heats.
> And overclocked CPU is easily tamed with huge Phanteks TC14PE cooler during rendering.
> 
> But A14 and TC14PE are surprisingly not the loudest components. *The humming noise and resonating vibration
> from 5 HDDs are slowly killing me. Midi R2 does nothing to block HDD noise. Rubber washers are just for show.*
> 
> 
> I am currently looking at 2 old models in stock - *Define R5* and *Define R6* (Define 7 costs 50% more, so it's out of the picture for now).
> Define R5 has HDD cages similar to Midi R2 (same mounts, same rubber washers, same construction prone to vibration)
> Define R6 has 6 HDD plates which can be placed with intervals for better airflow
> (but R6 has diagonal mounting points for HDD plates - I cannot guess whether it is bad or good for keeping HDD quiet).
> 
> I have never seen silent case review/comparison that covers HDD noise, so the forum is the only place to get this info.
> 
> 1) Is there a point in considering Define R5 in 2021? Does the older model have any significant advantages over R6?
> 
> 2) Which of these two cases does a better job blocking the noise coming from HDD motors and HDD case vibration?... If at all?
> 
> 3) I would appreciate any thoughts and impressions from someone who switched from high-airflow case (like Midi R2) to the Fractal silent case (like Define R6). Was the drop in cooling capabilities significant?
> 
> 4) The motherboard that I had to buy has angled SATA-ports, pointed to the front of the case (not classic, straight and easy to use), and Midi R2 gives me pain each time I need to change some sata-cables (because the sata-ports go right to the edge of HDD cage, leaving small area to hold the cable connector). What's your experience with Define R6 and R5? I cannot find any case photos covering this issue to make a comparison.
> 
> I don't intend to switch to water-cooling. The large tower CPU-cooler (TC14PE) will move to this new case together with some efficient case fans (Noctua A14 or Thermalright TY-147A SQ). And I'll have the case front door open during heavy loads.
> 
> Also: I intended to migrate to some larger HDDs (to replace 5 drives with only 2) or 10GbE NAS later this year, but Chia-nonsense happened, so for now the silent case is a cheaper option for me.


I use the R6 and it comes with plenty of the rubber bushings that should help damper the vibrations to the HDD drives..with either vertical or horizontal mounting..


----------



## ElevenEleven

It might be difficult for you to eliminate that vibration completely if your drives are on the noisy/powerfully vibrating side, like WD Black drives of a few years back. Mine only calmed down when I placed it directly on thick sorbothane without bolting it down, and even then it was making my Define 7 Compact vibrate (front panel and glass side panel). I moved it to a much larger corsair Air case, also on sorbothane, and there it is finally quiet. I now have an Exos X10 helium-filled drive in my Define 7 Compact, which has super low vibration and noise to begin with. With all that said, my previous Define R4 was much better at noise dampening than my current Define7 Compact--no resonances anywhere. But I still didn't use the included drive cage for that WD Black drive.


----------



## Shenhua

meddio said:


> *TLDR: Should I choose Define R5 or Define R6 to reduce HDD noise?*
> 
> Hello dear Fractal Design fans. I need your advice on choosing the *SILENT *Fractal case for my home office.
> Currently I use Fractal Design *Midi R2* (I've got two of them)*.*
> 
> Midi R2 is a good case from the build comfort and air cooling point of view.
> Nice case airflow is further improved by Noctua A14 fans. GPU never heats.
> And overclocked CPU is easily tamed with huge Phanteks TC14PE cooler during rendering.
> 
> But A14 and TC14PE are surprisingly not the loudest components. *The humming noise and resonating vibration
> from 5 HDDs are slowly killing me. Midi R2 does nothing to block HDD noise. Rubber washers are just for show.*
> 
> I am currently looking at 2 old models in stock - *Define R5* and *Define R6* (Define 7 costs 50% more, so it's out of the picture for now).
> 
> Define R5 has HDD cages similar to Midi R2 (same mounts, same rubber washers, same construction prone to vibration)
> Define R6 has 6 HDD plates which can be placed with intervals for better airflow
> (but R6 has diagonal mounting points for HDD plates - I cannot guess whether it is bad or good for keeping HDD quiet).
> 
> I have never seen silent case review/comparison that covers HDD noise, so the forum is the only place to get this info.
> 
> 1) Is there a point in considering Define R5 in 2021? Does the older model have any significant advantages over R6?
> 
> 2) Which of these two cases does a better job blocking the noise coming from HDD motors and HDD case vibration?... If at all?
> 
> 3) I would appreciate any thoughts and impressions from someone who switched from high-airflow case (like Midi R2) to the Fractal silent case (like Define R6). Was the drop in cooling capabilities significant?
> 
> 4) The motherboard that I had to buy has angled SATA-ports, pointed to the front of the case (not classic, straight and easy to use), and Midi R2 gives me pain each time I need to change some sata-cables (because the sata-ports go right to the edge of HDD cage, leaving small area to hold the cable connector). What's your experience with Define R6 and R5? I cannot find any case photos covering this issue to make a comparison.
> 
> I don't intend to switch to water-cooling. The large tower CPU-cooler (TC14PE) will move to this new case together with some efficient case fans (Noctua A14 or Thermalright TY-147A SQ). And I'll have the case front door open during heavy loads.
> 
> PS: I intended to migrate to some larger HDDs (to replace 5 drives with only 2) or 10GbE NAS later this year, but Chia-nonsense happened, so for now the silent case is a cheaper option for me.
> 
> PS 2. The only thing to completely eliminate the HDD vibration in my case was this Chinese thingy: the 5.25'' adapter for 3.5'' with silicone suspension, $5 per drive.
> But it takes 1.5 vertical spaces, and for 5 hdds I'd need some ancient case with 5.25 mounts only, not suitable for modern cases. Seems a bit extreme.


Less is more. Do your washers and mounts, and don't use trays and oficial mounts.

Define S while it was made for custom loops, it's great for mounting storage running on air.
You have bottom and top grill for mounting storage.
Use soft 1.5-2mm washers for the screws and sticky velcros. It should absorb a lot of the vibration without transimiting it to the case, and the foam on the panels of the case should deal with the rest.
All storage will receive the same amount of cooling, and you're not blocking airflow to the CPU or GPU.
Also GPU has a lot of room to breathe and the define S despite its closed and silent nature, it's quite decent with GPU temps.



Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## NotReadyYet

Hey guys,

Thinking about getting the Meshify 2 for an upcoming build. Wanted to know some feedback on it - especially the 140mm stock fans that come with it.

Plan was to get the EK 360 D-RGB Elite AIO (comes with 6 Vardar fans). I would move the rear 140mm to the front, and run the AIO with 3 fans in push and another fan on the rear of the case for exhaust. Thoughts on this? Plus any other feedback would be appreciated.


----------



## Shenhua

They're garbage.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## shilka

NotReadyYet said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Thinking about getting the Meshify 2 for an upcoming build. Wanted to know some feedback on it - especially the 140mm stock fans that come with it.
> 
> Plan was to get the EK 360 D-RGB Elite AIO (comes with 6 Vardar fans). I would move the rear 140mm to the front, and run the AIO with 3 fans in push and another fan on the rear of the case for exhaust. Thoughts on this? Plus any other feedback would be appreciated.


The stock fans are not worth using so throw them in a spare parts box or in the bin


----------



## NotReadyYet

What makes them so bad? I'm being a stingy guy and trying to not justify spending the $75 for three 140mm fans.


----------



## shilka

NotReadyYet said:


> What makes them so bad? I'm being a stingy guy and trying to not justify spending the $75 for three 140mm fans.


Their max RPM is only 1000 and the static pressure is almost non existent so very little air actually comes into the case if you use them as intake


----------



## GeneO

The stock fans are not very good and they are not pwm. Mine are in the trash bin.

I have an ek-aio 360 d-rgb in my meshify 2. The pump is not silent @ 100% so I run it @ 74% without much cooling loss. It is pretty good so far. The Vader fans are noisy at full 2200 rpm, you may want to consider that.

If you are thinking about utilizing all 6 fans for the radiator I think you would want the XL meshify 2.


----------



## NotReadyYet

GeneO said:


> The stock fans are not very good and they are not pwm. Mine are in the trash bin.
> 
> I have an ek-aio 360 d-rgb in my meshify 2. The pump is not silent @ 100% so I run it @ 74% without much cooling loss. It is pretty good so far. The Vader fans are noisy at full 2200 rpm, you may want to consider that.
> 
> If you are thinking about utilizing all 6 fans for the radiator I think you would want the XL meshify 2.


Thanks for the information! I was not going to run all six fans - the plan was to top mount it and run 3 in push, take an extra fan and put it in the rear of the case as an exhaust (replaces the stock 140mm fan).

I suppose I will get three 140mm Arctic PWM fans for the front as intake. They are excellent fans and should cost me like $40

What program do you use to control the pump and fans?


----------



## GeneO

NotReadyYet said:


> Thanks for the information! I was not going to run all six fans - the plan was to top mount it and run 3 in push, take an extra fan and put it in the rear of the case as an exhaust (replaces the stock 140mm fan).
> 
> I suppose I will get three 140mm Arctic PWM fans for the front as intake. They are excellent fans and should cost me like $40
> 
> What program do you use to control the pump and fans?


I use Asus AISuite FanXpert. Very reliable. Doesn't do you much good without an Asus board though. My experience with Gigabyte software fan control on their z390 Master was not good (fans would stop).


----------



## NotReadyYet

GeneO said:


> I use Asus AISuite FanXpert. Very reliable. Doesn't do you much good without an Asus board though. My experience with Gigabyte software fan control on their z390 Master was not good (fans would stop).


Cool, yeah I have a Dark Hero VIII and 5900x ready to go once I can pick a case.


----------



## GeneO

NotReadyYet said:


> Cool, yeah I have a Dark Hero VIII and 5900x ready to go once I can pick a case.


You can make the same curve in BIOS, but you can't make profiles and switch between them like with AISuite, and that is really useful, at least to me.


----------



## shilka

NotReadyYet said:


> What program do you use to control the pump and fans?


I use Open Hardware Monitor its far less of a resource hog than all the Asus bloatware but the drawback is you cant make curves you can only set it to auto or a fixed speed
On the other hand it uses next to no system resources


----------



## IANVS

Is there a version of Define S with a solid side panel or a separate solid panel to get?


----------



## Shenhua

GeneO said:


> You can make the same curve in BIOS, but you can't make profiles and switch between them like with AISuite, and that is really useful, at least to me.


Why would you want to have 2 different profiles?
Just configure a single curve good enough and you're set.
Manufacturer's suites are a steaming pile of s***. I'll rather prefer viruses than those.

If you wanna control fans from windows, here FanControl, my take on a SpeedFan replacement

It's all the fan control features you can find in MSI, asus, gigabyte, asrock and others combined in a single power tool.

That said, you shouldn't have a need for switching between profiles, if one of them is well configured.


----------



## Shenhua

IANVS said:


> Is there a version of Define S with a solid side panel or a separate solid panel to get?


Yes there is.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## GeneO

shilka said:


> I use Open Hardware Monitor its far less of a resource hog than all the Asus bloatware but the drawback is you cant make curves you can only set it to auto or a fixed speed
> On the other hand it uses next to no system resources


Not too much bloatware, I only install the DIP5 and System info components. The useless bloatware that comes along with that is Turbo App, EPU and PC cleaner. verything else is useful, including V/F curve editor. Just ignore th4e couple of useless things and don't throw out the baby with the bathwater. For Motherboard vendor software, it is one of the most stable I have come across (including other Asus junk). It really uses virtually no system resources at all. don''t know where that comes from.


----------



## GeneO

Shenhua said:


> Why would you want to have 2 different profiles?
> Just configure a single curve good enough and you're set.
> Manufacturer's suites are a steaming pile of s***. I'll rather prefer viruses than those.
> 
> If you wanna control fans from windows, here FanControl, my take on a SpeedFan replacement
> 
> It's all the fan control features you can find in MSI, asus, gigabyte, asrock and others combined in a single power tool.
> 
> That said, you shouldn't have a need for switching between profiles, if one of them is well configured.


I have a profile for memory testing that maximizes airfolow across the memory, I have an "octane" profile for keeping the temps down for benchmarking and stress testing, and I have a couple for normal silent running. I don't think you need to be telling other people what you think they need or not. Besides that, I use the AISuite to help establish and tweak new overclocks so that I do not have to keep rebooting the computer. Not all manufacturer suites are a steam pile of **** - you should keep an open mind and not lump everything together like that (though most are).


----------



## IANVS

I'm currently using the the Raijintek Thetis that I got purely for downsize reasons. Prior to it, I had a white R4 with busted front I/O that I started to dislike because I felt it's too freaking big, it looks like a fridge next to my desk. Plus, carrying it down and up the hill to dust it out was a pain. However, I'm not happy with noise and build quality of Thetis so I'm thinking of switching back. 

I came across a used (in good condition) Define S for 50€, so now I'm wondering if I should get it...
Thermals should be better...
I wonder how would they compare if I drill out the bottom HDD cage on R4 to free up the airflow and use the optical drive bays to house my 2 HDDs via adapters.
But then I would need to buy adapters and when we add the price and hassle of replacing the front I/O, I might as well get that Define S and sell the R4.

I'm still interested in downsizing, though. I like the Define series and Define C might work fine but I much prefer the 3-piece ModuVent on top (best solution for top panel I've seen on a case) and HDD mounting on Define S...ugh, decisions...


----------



## Shenhua

IANVS said:


> I'm currently using the the Raijintek Thetis that I got purely for downsize reasons. Prior to it, I had a white R4 with busted front I/O that I started to dislike because I felt it's too freaking big, it looks like a fridge next to my desk. Plus, carrying it down and up the hill to dust it out was a pain. However, I'm not happy with noise and build quality of Thetis so I'm thinking of switching back.
> 
> I came across a used (in good condition) Define S for 50€, so now I'm wondering if I should get it...
> Thermals should be better...
> I wonder how would they compare if I drill out the bottom HDD cage on R4 to free up the airflow and use the optical drive bays to house my 2 HDDs via adapters.
> But then I would need to buy adapters and when we add the price and hassle of replacing the front I/O, I might as well get that Define S and sell the R4.
> 
> I'm still interested in downsizing, though. I like the Define series and Define C might work fine but I much prefer the 3-piece ModuVent on top (best solution for top panel I've seen on a case) and HDD mounting on Define S...ugh, decisions...


If you ask me, define S with modded mesh front is the pinnacle of fractals 535x470x22 cases.
Now they're just reinventing the wheel.
That case can have a mesh front with excelent airflow, foam panels for antivibration and high frecuencies and a ton of free space on the walls for 3.5" drives if you go on air.

Top and bottom grills can be filled with drives, and in front of the motherboard you can attach like 4-5 SSD.

If i would have one of those and a lot of storage, i would place 3x140 front intakes, 2x120/140mm bottom intakes, with a modified mesh front. Custom better and less obstructive front filter.
Top with 4-5 3.5" and moduvent panels on, another 3-4 2.5" ssd in front of the motherboard where you would usually attach the watter pump, NH D15S, pcie slots brackets removed, and no rear fan.

You would have excelent airflow and noise ratio aswell. With a setup like that, you're already getting 90-95% cooling performance from the nh d15s at just 1000rpm.

Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## IANVS

Shenhua said:


> If you ask me, define S with modded mesh front is the pinnacle of fractals 535x470x22 cases.
> Now they're just reinventing the wheel.
> That case can have a mesh front with excelent airflow, foam panels for antivibration and high frecuencies and a ton of free space on the walls for 3.5" drives if you go on air.
> 
> Top and bottom grills can be filled with drives, and in front of the motherboard you can attach like 4-5 SSD.
> 
> If i would have one of those and a lot of storage, i would place 3x140 front intakes, 2x120/140mm bottom intakes, with a modified mesh front. Custom better and less obstructive front filter.
> Top with 4-5 3.5" and moduvent panels on, another 3-4 2.5" ssd in front of the motherboard where you would usually attach the watter pump, NH D15S, pcie slots brackets removed, and no rear fan.
> 
> You would have excelent airflow and noise ratio aswell. With a setup like that, you're already getting 90-95% cooling performance from the nh d15s at just 1000rpm.
> 
> Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


Modded mesh front? Oh? How does that look?

I have 2x3.5" HDDs for now, default mounting places are fine. 
I am, however, interested in alternate HDD mounts in R4, for example, because I'm considering drilling out the rivets on the bottom HDD cage in mine and removing it for better airflow. That would leave me with ODD compartments as only places for my HDDs, using adapters. But that's a bit crude solution. I haven't considered somehow using the top panel for that...can it be done in R4?

As for cooling, I have an 10400F with Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 and a Strix 1080Ti. I'm primarily concerned about GPU cooling, as the 10400F is a piece of cake to cool. Also, I have the Phanteks PH-TC14PE lying around. As for fans, 3 of Noctua P14s Redux 1500s that I can use...I'll probably need few more fans. 
BTW, is botom fan intake in these cases good for GPU cooling or is it redundant? I was considering that too...


----------



## Shenhua

IANVS said:


> Modded mesh front? Oh? How does that look?
> 
> I have 2x3.5" HDDs for now, default mounting places are fine.
> I am, however, interested in alternate HDD mounts in R4, for example, because I'm considering drilling out the rivets on the bottom HDD cage in mine and removing it for better airflow. That would leave me with ODD compartments as only places for my HDDs, using adapters. But that's a bit crude solution. I haven't considered somehow using the top panel for that...can it be done in R4?
> 
> As for cooling, I have an 10400F with Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 and a Strix 1080Ti. I'm primarily concerned about GPU cooling, as the 10400F is a piece of cake to cool. Also, I have the Phanteks PH-TC14PE lying around. As for fans, 3 of Noctua P14s Redux 1500s that I can use...I'll probably need few more fans.
> BTW, is botom fan intake in these cases good for GPU cooling or is it redundant? I was considering that too...


I know 10400f is a lighter in therms of power consumption, but having around a tc14pe lying around and using a 120mm AIO, it's sacrilege. That CPU with a tc14pe even at full load, doesn't need more than 500-600rpm.

R4 it's a large case, unless you starve it with poor airflow, which you might if you're trying to run it at low or bellow ambient noise, you shouldn't have any problems.

For the strix 1080ti, the biggest improvement you will get, is from modding it. Slap a pair of cheap p12 pwm on it, and control them from the motherboard with the piece of software i linked to the guy that uses Asus suite.
Im running my 1080 strix with 2 sw3, and im doing about 60-63°C, at 800rpm, with 20°C ambient. Overclocked, but without touching the voltage.
I do have much better airflow than you have tho.... but my case fans also don't go past 600rpm, so that's a thing too.

Bottom intake might help (im using a A15 in a meshify C, with an overall improvement of 3-4°C in both CPU and GPU), but to what extent it's hard to predict because there's to many factors to take into account. What i can tell you, is that the larger the case, the smaller is the improvement, and if you have front to back airflow, you don't wanna run them very fast.


Top of r4, has little area with honeycomb pattern. You might have to drill holes, but it is possible. Not as nice as the define S tho, since after you screw the drives in, you can mount the foam moduvents.


Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## IANVS

Shenhua said:


> I know 10400f is a lighter in therms of power consumption, but having around a tc14pe lying around and using a 120mm AIO, it's sacrilege. That CPU with a tc14pe even at full load, doesn't need more than 500-600rpm.
> 
> R4 it's a large case, unless you starve it with poor airflow, which you might if you're trying to run it at low or bellow ambient noise, you shouldn't have any problems.
> 
> For the strix 1080ti, the biggest improvement you will get, is from modding it. Slap a pair of cheap p12 pwm on it, and control them from the motherboard with the piece of software i linked to the guy that uses Asus suite.
> Im running my 1080 strix with 2 sw3, and im doing about 60-63°C, at 800rpm, with 20°C ambient. Overclocked, but without touching the voltage.
> I do have much better airflow than you have tho.... but my case fans also don't go past 600rpm, so that's a thing too.
> 
> Bottom intake might help (im using a A15 in a meshify C, with an overall improvement of 3-4°C in both CPU and GPU), but to what extent it's hard to predict because there's to many factors to take into account. What i can tell you, is that the larger the case, the smaller is the improvement, and if you have front to back airflow, you don't wanna run them very fast.
> 
> 
> Top of r4, has little area with honeycomb pattern. You might have to drill holes, but it is possible. Not as nice as the define S tho, since after you screw the drives in, you can mount the foam moduvents.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk


Oh, I do intend to deshroud the GPU and strap a pair of 120mm fans (most likely F120MPs). I just need to figure out connecting them.
I use Argus to control fans, so I can plug the fans on GPU to mobo and control them via Argus, I think, it enables fans on mobo headers to react the GPU temps (it's how I connected 2 top intake fans on Thetis). 
The temps are pretty solid in Thetis, to my surprise, it's not really known for good airflow. All my fans are Thermaltake Toughfan 12s, the CPU does 60-62C in Borderlands 3 with fan at 1000-1100 RPM and the GPU is lightly undervolted, hits around 70...but the GPU fans are just too noisy and there's resonance and rattling from the case, even though fans in it are very quiet. It's starting to annoy me.

The reason I use the LFII for CPU is simply to reduce the in Thetis (also, it has a wonky CPU airflow and the AIO helps). It does a nice job but it might not be optimal for Define cases, the only place I see for it is top exhaust...TC14PE might be a better fit. It's pretty big, though, I've gotten used to clean motherboard.

If I do use a bottom intake, it will surely blow lightly, on low RPM. I'll probably try without it, to see how it goes.
What do you suggest for fans? Where should I put those 3 P14s Reduxes and what more should I get? I was looking into Phanteks F140MPs...
I should maybe replace the fans on TC14PE too if I use it, I have the old version fans...


----------



## Shenhua

IANVS said:


> Oh, I do intend to deshroud the GPU and strap a pair of 120mm fans (most likely F120MPs). I just need to figure out connecting them.
> I use Argus to control fans, so I can plug the fans on GPU to mobo and control them via Argus, I think, it enables fans on mobo headers to react the GPU temps (it's how I connected 2 top intake fans on Thetis).
> The temps are pretty solid in Thetis, to my surprise, it's not really known for good airflow. All my fans are Thermaltake Toughfan 12s, the CPU does 60-62C in Borderlands 3 with fan at 1000-1100 RPM and the GPU is lightly undervolted, hits around 70...but the GPU fans are just too noisy and there's resonance and rattling from the case, even though fans in it are very quiet. It's starting to annoy me.
> 
> The reason I use the LFII for CPU is simply to reduce the in Thetis (also, it has a wonky CPU airflow and the AIO helps). It does a nice job but it might not be optimal for Define cases, the only place I see for it is top exhaust...TC14PE might be a better fit. It's pretty big, though, I've gotten used to clean motherboard.
> 
> If I do use a bottom intake, it will surely blow lightly, on low RPM. I'll probably try without it, to see how it goes.
> What do you suggest for fans? Where should I put those 3 P14s Reduxes and what more should I get? I was looking into Phanteks F140MPs...
> I should maybe replace the fans on TC14PE too if I use it, I have the old version fans...


With only 2x 3.5" hdd, If it was me, i would sell the case with all fans, and get a lian li 215, mod the GPU, and get 3x sw3, f140mp for the front, and use the tc14pe. Considering the undervolt on the GPU, and the 10400f with the tc14pe, you should be able to run all fans around 500-700rpm under high loads (stress tests and benchmarks excluded), and never touch 70ºC, with 20-22ºC ambient.
Remove drive cage, and install both HDDs directly on the floor, with thick rubber washers and sticky velcros (that should absorb all the vibration).
It's a cheapo case, but in this situation, is probably as good and silent as you gonna get, coming from case side.

By the way, are you getting a really good price on the f120mp, because they go for 20 bucks a piece, and arctic p12, while they have some cuality control issues, they're incredibly good for the task at hand (which is a fairly fin dense radiator)


----------



## IANVS

Lancool 215 is not available to me...Lancool II Mesh is, for 105€. 
I also considered Be Quiet Pure Base 500DX, it looks like a good compromise between cooling and silence but it's 115€ and I already have 4 cases (one is ITX), so I'd avoid paying 100+ EUR for another one, if I can...that's why I consider going back to R4 or getting the Define S for 50€ and selling the R4. I'm still debating what to do with other cases (Raijintek Metis, TT Chaser A31, Define R4), they're piling on, heh.

The F120MP would cost me 15€ or $18. I do have a 5-pack of P12s but I replaced them with Thermaltake Toughfan 12s (cost me $20 a piece) because of the infamous noise.
F140MP would be $21...


----------



## IANVS

I got the Define S. Sadly, the guy who sold it to me didn't send any accessories, screws, etc. so I have to find them on my own. Maybe I can write to Fractal's customer support and see if they can help out with that...Luckily, I have just enough screws from my R4 to make the transplant from current case.

I was surprised how light it feels compared to R4. I got the windowed version, would prefer solid panels with fan cutout. On the one hand, I feel slighty cheated because it's not "build like a tank" like the R4 is, on the other hand it will be easier to carry it for dusting out. I might need a couple of extra 140mm fans for experimenting with airflow...I don't know why they sealed off the areas on the back of the case, instead of leaving holes and cutouts there like on most cases. That may warrant an exhaust fan in the back to help out, I don't know if just removing the PCI covers will do...I may also experiment with bottom intake, I'll see. 

I'll also try to keep the Liquid Freezer and mount it in top front intake, as use the 2 140mm in middle and bottom front, if the hoses can reach the CPU. It does a great job at cooling, it's very quiet and I like the clean mobo area, makes working on easy. If not, then the PH-TC14PE it is.
Now, to do some hackjob and make some kind of wooden stand to put the case on it, so I can raise it high for less dust and better intake on the bottom...


----------



## NotReadyYet

Ended up pulling the trigger on the Meshify 2 and also bought three 140mm Arctic PWM Continuous use fans. Plan to start the build in a couple of weeks. Super pumped and will post pics once it's done.


----------



## Mergatroid

Added a video on Youtube of the RGB working in my case. Also corrected the problems with the LED strips as best I could.


----------



## IANVS

I transplanted the system (10400F + Strix 1080Ti) to Define S today and I'm pleased.
Removed the PCI covers, put 2 P14s Redux 1500 in front bottom and middle and Liquid Freezer 120 above them, all as intake. 3rd Noctua went to back exhaust (tied to avg. CPU temp). The cables on intake fans just barely reached the headers on my mATX mobo, stretching a bit below the board...not very aesthetic but I'll need extenders if I'm gonna route them elsewhere.

CPU idles at 32-35C with radiator fan (TT Toughfan 12) at 500 RPM and rear exhaust at 750. In CB23 it didn't go over 63C, the radiator fan was at 1000-1100 RPM, just barely audible at that speed, with exhaust at same RPM.
The GPU idles at mid-30s, intake fans are set to react to avg. GPU temp and don't spin until the GPU hits 50C. In Heaven benchmark it went to 63C with GPU fans running at less than 30%, intake fans don't go over 1000-1100 in full load.

I didn't expect temps to be this good. And it's decently silent at that, even with case right next to me, at 30-40cm away. Mind you, I spend 95% of my time at computer with headphones on so the noise talk is kinda moot in my case, I won't be able to hear it anyway, especially when I lower the case down next to table.
The loudest part seems to be the P14s Redux on exhaust. It also has some whining when it breaks 800-900 RPM, similar to Arctic P fans...it might just be a scuffed specimen. I need to think if I should replace the Reduxes...Reduxi?...with F140MP, just for smoother sound. Otherwise, Noctuas do a good job at moving air.

All in all, nice. I won't need the bottom intake, I guess...
I'll see what happens when I deshroud the GPU, if there's any point to it now...


----------



## therealjustin

My Meshify 2 was delivered today from Newegg. The shipping company, LaserShip, decided to leave it directly under a gutter without ringing a doorbell or knocking. And of course, the case is scratched anyway. Soaked and damaged.


----------



## GeneO

That sucks.


----------



## IANVS

I always dread of experiences like that...
Luckily, I never had a shipment being damaged, the couriers were kind, but I fear the day will come eventually...


----------



## NotReadyYet

therealjustin said:


> My Meshify 2 was delivered today from Newegg. The shipping company, LaserShip, decided to leave it directly under a gutter without ringing a doorbell or knocking. And of course, the case is scratched anyway. Soaked and damaged.


That company SUCKS. I never had a good experience with them, ever. My Meshify 2 was also delivered by them and they left it right in the front porch. I've had a lot of package thefts and always ask delivery people to leave it near the side door. I have a note on my front door asking. They never rang my bell either but I got lucky that I just so happened to poke my head out.


----------



## NotReadyYet

Finally put my new rig together.

I must say the Meshify 2 was an absolute pleasure to build with. Between the ease and the quality I am at a loss for words. My prior build was a Corsair 540 Air and I thought that was something special - the Meshify 2 topped that. Cable management was amazing, the built in fan hub was a nice touch, and it was lovely to have the built in dust filters included - all without breaking the bank.

Specs:

Meshify 2
Ryzen 5900x
ASUS Dark Hero VIII
G.Skill Neo 3600 (16-16-16-36) B Die RAM
Zotac 2080 Super
EK 360 Elite AIO
Sabrent Rocket 1TB 4.0 PCIe
Sabrent 1TB 3.0 PCIe
WD "White Label" 8TB HDD (shucked from a WD MyBook external drive)
Corsair RM1000x PSU
3x Arctic 140mm PWM CO
4x EK 120mm Vardar aRGB fans

I am currently sitting at ~38C CPU package temps and piques at ~67C while gaming.

Was able to use ClockTuner to speed it up as well. Ended up with a Silver Sample CPU. Before tweaking I was able to get 8049 points on Cinebench 20, with CTR default tune it went to 8785 points. The difference in CPU voltage went from 1.175 to 1.185 and PPT from 140.2 to 147.4. This gave me a +736 point increase, without affecting my temps. I then played with some of the voltages more and ran it again and got 9027 points. A further +242 point increase. Very pleased with this build and getting a nice draw on the silicon lotto helped as well.


----------



## Mergatroid

NotReadyYet said:


> Finally put my new rig together.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> I must say the Meshify 2 was an absolute pleasure to build with. Between the ease and the quality I am at a loss for words. My prior build was a Corsair 540 Air and I thought that was something special - the Meshify 2 topped that. Cable management was amazing, the built in fan hub was a nice touch, and it was lovely to have the built in dust filters included - all without breaking the bank.
> 
> Specs:
> 
> Meshify 2
> Ryzen 5900x
> ASUS Dark Hero VIII
> G.Skill Neo 3600 (16-16-16-36) B Die RAM
> Zotac 2080 Super
> EK 360 Elite AIO
> Sabrent Rocket 1TB 4.0 PCIe
> Sabrent 1TB 3.0 PCIe
> WD "White Label" 8TB HDD (shucked from a WD MyBook external drive)
> Corsair RM1000x PSU
> 3x Arctic 140mm PWM CO
> 4x EK 120mm Vardar aRGB fans
> 
> I am currently sitting at ~38C CPU package temps and piques at ~67C while gaming.
> 
> Was able to use ClockTuner to speed it up as well. Ended up with a Silver Sample CPU. Before tweaking I was able to get 8049 points on Cinebench 20, with CTR default tune it went to 8785 points. The difference in CPU voltage went from 1.175 to 1.185 and PPT from 140.2 to 147.4. This gave me a +736 point increase, without affecting my temps. I then played with some of the voltages more and ran it again and got 9027 points. A further +242 point increase. Very pleased with this build and getting a nice draw on the silicon lotto helped as well.
> 
> View attachment 2512860
> 
> 
> View attachment 2512861
> 
> View attachment 2512862
> 
> 
> View attachment 2512864
> 
> View attachment 2512866
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2512867
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2512870


I absolutely love how well the colour of the case, mobo, AIO and even the gpu match up so well. The gold colour on the pump/block really draws the eye.
Looks amazing man.


----------



## Skylinestar

I've been reading this reddit RTX3090 roasting topic and I'm worried if my Fractal R5 is fit for an RTX3080Ti. My current GTX1070 hovers around 70-75°c during gaming.


----------



## Multiplectic

Skylinestar said:


> I've been reading this reddit RTX3090 roasting topic and I'm worried if my Fractal R5 is fit for an RTX3080Ti. My current GTX1070 hovers around 70-75°c during gaming.


I don't see why it wouldn't be good for a 3080Ti.
If you _*absolutely*_ wanna make sure you'll have good ventilation:

2x140 front intake
1x120 bottom intake (120mm because usually the gap left between the HDD cage and the PSU is kinda small and squeezing a 140mm there might not be an option)
1x140 rear exhaust
3x140 top exhaust

Done. That's _*a ton*_ of airflow right there.

I have 2x140 front intake, 1x120 bottom intake, 1x120 rear exhaust and a 360 AIO on top exhausting. My 1080Ti FE with the stock cooler and a custom fan curve sits at 70-75c at load with 20-25c ambient temp.


----------



## Shenhua

Skylinestar said:


> I've been reading this reddit RTX3090 roasting topic and I'm worried if my Fractal R5 is fit for an RTX3080Ti. My current GTX1070 hovers around 70-75°c during gaming.


You can brute force things like friend above me said, but it's not ideal. You have good airflow cases starting from 50-70 bucks. A lian li 215 for example, with the 200mm fans changed to some decent 3x140mm, like f140mp for example. You can find them at 10€ on aliexpress if you live in europe or asia. Ofc the case doesnt have a lot of quality, but it's dirth cheap and achieves maximum airflow with low cost and fairly low RPM, unlike the last fractal cases "reinventing the wheel" for extra cost.
Got a meshify C, and im a big fan of the define S (mostly for it's potential to tune it and configure it differently from the conventional way), but fractal kind of gone on a wrong path if you ask me...... and they keep using the same crappy fans, while charging a premium.


----------



## IANVS

Multiplectic said:


> I donsee why it wouldn't be good for a 3080Ti.
> If you _*absolutely*_ wanna make sure you'll have good ventilation:
> 
> 2x140 front intake
> 1x120 bottom intake (120mm because usually the gap left between the HDD cage and the PSU is kinda small and squeezing a 140mm there might not be an option)
> 1x140 rear exhaust
> 3x140 top exhaust
> 
> Done. That's _*a ton*_ of airflow right there.


3 top exhaust fans might be an overkill, really...
I agree about 2 front and 1 bottom intakes (the bottom one might not be neccessary if both HDD cages are removed), as well as rear exhaust. But I would only use a single top exhaust at most (the one closest to the rear), and only if the rear one is not sufficient. I'd start with a simple 2 front, 1 rear setup and build from there if needed.

I would also take off _all _the PCI covers from the back panel, not just ones for the GPU, to improve airflow in the case. It's something Doyll recommended to me, I did it on Define S and my Strix 1080Ti is pretty cool, no bottom intake needed. Your mileage may vary but it's easy enough to try...

Also, a slight undervolt goes a long way on hot GPUs like the 3080Ti...
And definitely replace the stock fans, if you haven't already.


----------



## therealjustin

Got another Meshify 2 in, and yet again it has powder coating problems. The scuffs/scratches are in almost exactly the same places as on the previous case, which tells me that Fractal needs to address this at the factory. I've been lucky to get nice reps at Newegg that understand. Not pictured is the largest scuff about four inches up, right on the thin strip of metal that surrounds the glass panel at the rear.

Does anyone else have these kinds of issues on their cases? Am I just too damn picky when spending $170?


----------



## Mergatroid

Small scratches like that wouldn't really bother me. If there is a larger one though that might be different.


----------



## robalm

Anyone know if i can fit a
Freezer II 420 In Fractal Design Define 7?
On some site sites shows 36mm max.

Here it shows working: Review: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420 - Cooling - HEXUS.net
But here is says max 36mm








Fractal Design Define 7


The Define series from Fractal Design is without a doubt one of its most popular lines of cases ever. Fractal Design is now ready with its 7th generation Define case. It has been given the obvious name of Define 7. We’ll be taking a look at what this brand new case has to offer and also what new...




tweakreviews.com


----------



## d0mmie

robalm said:


> Anyone know if i can fit a
> Freezer II 420 In Fractal Design Define 7?
> On some site sites shows 36mm max.
> 
> Here it shows working: Review: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420 - Cooling - HEXUS.net
> But here is says max 36mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fractal Design Define 7
> 
> 
> The Define series from Fractal Design is without a doubt one of its most popular lines of cases ever. Fractal Design is now ready with its 7th generation Define case. It has been given the obvious name of Define 7. We’ll be taking a look at what this brand new case has to offer and also what new...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tweakreviews.com


Maybe... It really depends on how tall your memory modules are, as stated in the manual memory modules should have a max height of 36mm (might be able to get away with 40mm, but really depends on the modules, motherboard etc). Your biggest issue will probably be the motherboard VRM heatsink sitting at the top, which might rub against your fans.


----------



## robalm

d0mmie said:


> Maybe... It really depends on how tall your memory modules are, as stated in the manual memory modules should have a max height of 36mm (might be able to get away with 40mm, but really depends on the modules, motherboard etc). Your biggest issue will probably be the motherboard VRM heatsink sitting at the top, which might rub against your fans.


Thank you.
But in he HEXUS test the cooler is not even over the ram.


----------



## d3v0

Welp it’s not much but it’s my new Fractal Meshify 2 Compact and nope, the Arctic Freezer ii 280 does not fit on the top!


----------



## opt33

robalm said:


> Thank you.
> But in he HEXUS test the cooler is not even over the ram.


I had to move out of fractal design cases ( had define R5 and R7) when I bought z390 mobo, I could not use a 30mm 280 or 420 rad at top. The ram slots were closer to top than my older motherboard (could have dremeled some of fan side away to fix that issue) but the deal breaker was the larger heat sinks hitting fans, even dremel wouldnt allow that fit (unless dremel heatsinks). 360 rads more likley to fit as they can be shifted forward more since smaller form.

Fractal needs to add 20 mm height to of all their cases and stop the 36mm nonsense, to allow 55mm clearance to mobo. To me they are a dead brand for watercooling until they modernize for new mobo with large heatsinks. I ended up F31 suppressor, a direct copy of R5 but with 48mm clearance, even that with 280 rad top hits heatsinks, but is doable. In future, any case I buy will have 55m clearance at top for 30mm rad + 25mm fan.


----------



## GeneO

opt33 said:


> I had to move out of fractal design cases ( had define R5 and R7) when I bought z390 mobo, I could not use a 30mm 280 or 420 rad at top. The ram slots were closer to top than my older motherboard (could have dremeled some of fan side away to fix that issue) but the deal breaker was the larger heat sinks hitting fans, even dremel wouldnt allow that fit (unless dremel heatsinks). 360 rads more likley to fit as they can be shifted forward more since smaller form.
> 
> Fractal needs to add 20 mm height to of all their cases and stop the 36mm nonsense, to allow 55mm clearance to mobo. To me they are a dead brand for watercooling until they modernize for new mobo with large heatsinks. I ended up F31 suppressor, a direct copy of R5 but with 48mm clearance, even that with 280 rad top hits heatsinks, but is doable. In future, any case I buy will have 55m clearance at top for 30mm rad + 25mm fan.


This is with XL Fractal cases?


----------



## loader963

@GeneO 

Nah it can’t be the XL versions. I have the 7 xl and a 30mm rad and 25mm fans on top and I can have a good 25mm before it gets to being in front of the motherboard. Might could even go push/pull but cable management with the cpu cable and top fan headers would be a headache.


----------



## loader963

Here’s a pic while I’m literally leak testing at the moment.


----------



## GeneO

loader963 said:


> @GeneO
> 
> Nah it can’t be the XL versions. I have the 7 xl and a 30mm rad and 25mm fans on top and I can have a good 25mm before it gets to being in front of the motherboard. Might could even go push/pull but cable management with the cpu cable and top fan headers would be a headache.


Didn't think so.


----------



## opt33

XL cases are huge full tower cases with plenty of rad clearance everywhere, but too big for my taste. Was only referring to Fractal midtower cases R5-R7, etc. Corsair 5000 cases size wise are what all new midtower cases should be, 55+mm clearance at top for 30mm rad/25mm fan and plenty of front clearance for pump/res/rad/fans and only 20.5 inches tall and deep. All Fractal had to do was add 20mm height to allow proper rad/fan clearance. But as it stands, no modern mobo is going to work well in those cases with top 140 form rads, even 360 rads arent ideal. 

Here is pic with my F31 with 48mm clearance and top rad fan (rear one) is sitting even with edge of mobo heat sinks on z390 mobo, newer mobos have even bigger heatsinks. My next case will be either 802d or corsair 5000, though would really like a fractal F8 (if one is coming) for its silence but only with proper top clearance for 30mm













rad/fan.


----------



## Shenhua

opt33 said:


> XL cases are huge full tower cases with plenty of rad clearance everywhere, but too big for my taste. Was only referring to Fractal midtower cases R5-R7, etc. Corsair 5000 cases size wise are what all new midtower cases should be, 55+mm clearance at top for 30mm rad/25mm fan and plenty of front clearance for pump/res/rad/fans and only 20.5 inches tall and deep. All Fractal had to do was add 20mm height to allow proper rad/fan clearance. But as it stands, no modern mobo is going to work well in those cases with top 140 form rads, even 360 rads arent ideal.
> 
> Here is pic with my F31 with 48mm clearance and top rad fan (rear one) is sitting even with edge of mobo heat sinks on z390 mobo, newer mobos have even bigger heatsinks. My next case will be either 802d or corsair 5000, though would really like a fractal F8 (if one is coming) for its silence but only with proper top clearance for 30mm
> View attachment 2521336
> View attachment 2521336
> rad/fan.


Those front air intakes are impressive! 
Not that fractal define cases are a lot better xd.


----------



## opt33

yep, there is a restriction price for quiet. With door closed my delta air to water is 9.5C cooling constant 410 watts (2x280 rads all with noctua 1000 rpm fans). With front door open, noise is noticeable louder and delta air to water decrease 1C to 8.5C. So not too bad, and I prefer quiet over 1C difference. But hopefully in future they can design quiet cases will have better airflow.


----------



## Shenhua

opt33 said:


> yep, there is a restriction price for quiet. With door closed my delta air to water is 9.5C cooling constant 410 watts (2x280 rads all with noctua 1000 rpm fans). With front door open, noise is noticeable louder and delta air to water decrease 1C to 8.5C. So not too bad, and I prefer quiet over 1C difference. But hopefully in future they can design quiet cases will have better airflow.


"quiet cases" definitely work to a certain degree with custom loops, but im not a fan of them (no pun intended). Granted the 9900k it's not that great to cool because of the die/ihs situation, so a liquid cooler coldplate it's always gonna be better, but if that wouldnt be a problem and you would have, say a 10700k, you would almost be better running on air with a mesh case and few optimizations here and there.

I assume the 410w are gaming loads. 280-300 for the GPU and the rest for the CPU. What are you getting 25ºC delta over ambient on the GPU and around 40-45ºC on CPU???

A lian li 215 (yes a cheap lian li, not a fractal......im waiting for the time, when fractal stops reinventing the wheel and actually do some good basic design), modded with 3x140 front intake, drive cage removed, cables tucked behind mobo, 1x140 bottom intake, a 120mm fan mod on the 2080ti, and a d15 with mid fan only, on the a 10700k, all OCed for 24/7, you would be able to run fans at about 650-700rpm on case and CPU cooler and 8-900rpm on GPU and have a delta of around 40-45ºC over ambient on both ( ofc asuming you have a decent 2080ti model with a decent rad for modding).
It's not water cooling temps on GPU, but you would have much less noise than 4 x nf a14 (i had 4 of those in a define S (3 intakes and 1 exhast), and at 1k RPM, belive me they produce a lot more noise than what im telling you on mesh+air).

And you have the benefit that you can have starting temperature for the case fans. So you reduce the dust by a lot and have the build make 0 noise while browsing and idle, (500rpm on cpu cooler and 400 on GPU, dont really produce audible noise).

Something like this


http://imgur.com/a/2WZyLo6


----------



## d0mmie

Redid and cleaned my build in my Define 7 XL case. I'm not big on RGB so I tried playing around with what options I had, but looks a lot better when the dark tempered glass is on.



http://imgur.com/a/RBYqnpl


----------



## Abula

d0mmie said:


> Redid and cleaned my build in my Define 7 XL case. I'm not big on RGB so I tried playing around with what options I had, but looks a lot better when the dark tempered glass is on.


 Nice clean build, did you use EK ZMT 9,5/15,9mm?


----------



## d0mmie

Abula said:


> Nice clean build, did you use EK ZMT 9,5/15,9mm?


Nope. Used HEATKILLER EPDM TUBING 16/10 from Watercool. I'm done with EK-ZMT, it's way too rough and dirty inside the tube.


----------



## Elrick

New Fractal Design cases hitting Mwave right this very moment;






Search Results for Fractaltorrent | Mwave







www.mwave.com.au





Finally, a mid-tower case with lots of Air Throughput and doesn't look like a cheapo-crippled chip packet, on the front  .


----------



## Asunder

If only they hadn't used flimsy plastic trash again...the layout is way better than what's on the market now. Would have been an absolute easy pick if they made a full metal Torrent...guess I'll stick to modded define XL until someone decides to compete with O11.


----------



## n8t1308

Hello Everyone! Ive just ordered a Define 7 XL and have a question about radiator sizing. Looking at a few of the radiators I have laying around id like to verify if they will fit. Id like to run a 480 OCool rad up top in a pull config and a 420 Monsta OCool in push up front. The D5 pump/res combo would be attached to the 420 with a fan bracket. Think it will fit? Sounds dumb but im coming from a Caselabs STH10 so ive got radiators up the wazoo over here.


----------



## Mergatroid

d0mmie said:


> Redid and cleaned my build in my Define 7 XL case. I'm not big on RGB so I tried playing around with what options I had, but looks a lot better when the dark tempered glass is on.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/RBYqnpl


Nice build man. Nice and clean.


----------



## CrustyJuggler

Here's my Meshify C build. All air, runs cool and dead silent except when gaming. MSI Mortar, 5600x, RX 580, Ballistix 3600 e-die. Freeze 34 Esports Duo on the CPU, stock fan in the rear, 2 Fractal HP-14s in the front. Not impressed the HP-14. At 70% they pretty much just get louder and cooling stops at 80%. I don't like their sound profile either once they hit 70%. I find them way more annoying than the Bionix P120s on the CPU maxed out. Just not sure on my replacement fans yet.


----------



## d0mmie

n8t1308 said:


> Hello Everyone! Ive just ordered a Define 7 XL and have a question about radiator sizing. Looking at a few of the radiators I have laying around id like to verify if they will fit. Id like to run a 480 OCool rad up top in a pull config and a 420 Monsta OCool in push up front. The D5 pump/res combo would be attached to the 420 with a fan bracket. Think it will fit? Sounds dumb but im coming from a Caselabs STH10 so ive got radiators up the wazoo over here.


There's no way you'll get two big 420mm radiators in a 7 XL case. If you look at my build post just a few posts prior to yours, you'll see I have a 420mm XT45 x-flow in top, and a 420mm ST30 x-flow in the front. Granted u-flow radiators aren't quite as long. So you will be able to do one 420mm Monsta XT45 (might be able to squize in an UT60, depending on your motherboard) in the top, but only a ST30 in the front. Maaaaaybe a XT45, but don't count on it.


----------



## opt33

d0mmie said:


> Redid and cleaned my build in my Define 7 XL case. I'm not big on RGB so I tried playing around with what options I had, but looks a lot better when the dark tempered glass is on.


If I were going to build in Define 7 XL, that is how I would want mine to look, very clean, and 2 x 420 rads would be ideal, also like the xflow's for reducing clutter. But 70lbs? plus bulky size with my going up/down winding stairs to work on, Ill have to wait for better midtower version, just wish there were more soundproofed cases. I can tolerate 700rpms (140mm noctua) in mesh cases (but cant tolerate D5 pump at any speed with front mesh, top mesh works fine), or 800 rpms external to rad in soundproofed case, or 900-1000rpms muffled by being internal to rad plus soundproofed case. I just cant fathom how 36mm clearance at top for 25mm fan +30mm rad was proclaimed a good idea at fractal on midtowers, if it were just 20mm taller, I would have a fractal R7 with 420 at top, 280 front.


----------



## Asunder

opt33 said:


> If I were going to build in Define 7 XL, that is how I would want mine to look, very clean, and 2 x 420 rads would be ideal, also like the xflow's for reducing clutter. But 70lbs? plus bulky size with my going up/down winding stairs to work on, Ill have to wait for better midtower version, just wish there were more soundproofed cases. I can tolerate 700rpms (140mm noctua) in mesh cases (but cant tolerate D5 pump at any speed with front mesh, top mesh works fine), or 800 rpms external to rad in soundproofed case, or 900-1000rpms muffled by being internal to rad plus soundproofed case. I just cant fathom how 36mm clearance at top for 25mm fan +30mm rad was proclaimed a good idea at fractal on midtowers, if it were just 20mm taller, I would have a fractal R7 with 420 at top, 280 front.


I don't run noctuas on this build, which are known for having dampening and quietness, I use cheaper ones and I can barely hear them even at 1500RPM. And I am not running a door panel on the define XL, I replaced the whole panel with mesh filters + frame so it gets a ton of air in. If I get really close to the case then yeah it's audible, but even at 1800 RPM being at the desk the only discernible thing is still the gpu. I would say there's no point being worried about sound at under 1000 rpm, really. If you want to run push/pull then you will most likely hear turbulence, though.


----------



## Shenhua

Asunder said:


> I don't run noctuas on this build, which are known for having dampening and quietness, I use cheaper ones and I can barely hear them even at 1500RPM. And I am not running a door panel on the define XL, I replaced the whole panel with mesh filters + frame so it gets a ton of air in. If I get really close to the case then yeah it's audible, but even at 1800 RPM being at the desk the only discernible thing is still the gpu. I would say there's no point being worried about sound at under 1000 rpm, really. If you want to run push/pull then you will most likely hear turbulence, though.


You might wanna go to the doctor. I can clearly distinguish my meshify C running 3 x sw3 + 1 x nf a15 at 600rpm at 70cm of me.... and im living in a city.....
A build with 4-8 x 1800rpm fans, it's a banshee........


----------



## Asunder

How about you stop giving people half-assed advice on the internet, mate? Maybe you need a psych check-up. 

RPM is not everything when it comes to fans. Fans can have different tuning or things that can influence their sound. I can tell you fans that sound like they are screeching as if the rotor was hitting the bearing at 600. And then fans that do not have enough static pressure, again, can produce a different sound when they hit a wall of copper...

Do you not use headphones, anyway? Unless you have a (rare?!) fetish for hugging your case and getting off on fan noise, most people do not sit with their face next to their case. 

The define XL is a pretty long case, can't say certainly for glass, but the steel panels dampen very well. The only fan that is audible on my part is the gpu fan which sits right at the back. At 8-900 (usually spins around this curve) the arctics are very smooth, if you listen closely - no disturbing sound at all. There are plenty of details, mind you, that I can pick up during listening sessions and I absolutely hate bright audio gear, I did my whole amp+d/ac setup to avoid that. I don't think someone with aversion towards higher than 2800hz treble peaks would not hear fans and turbulence. 

A lot of the nasty sound comes from trepidation and poor dampening, which, again, if you are a quietness-freak it should be the first thing you'd want to deal with. If you run 12 fans, it's common sense you're gonna freaking hear them, that's a whole heap of vibration and air pressure. Which most people don't, again. I don't think it's unreasonable to asses that. But it's very unlikely that top-5 fan picks aren't well-tuned (and there is a huge list of db tests and benchmarks available).


----------



## therealjustin

Thought I might order a new Torrent, but they were suddenly pulled from Newegg yesterday. Fractal stated that there is an issue with the fan hub potentially shorting out and that replacements should be available soon. No date given for new case shipments, however. I'm quite sad about this as I really wanted one.


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## Melan

So that's why it disappeared from amazon. I'd ditch the fan hub anyways as I got plenty of fan ports on a mobo, but good on them for not making it into new NZXT fire hazard thing.


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## Shenhua

Asunder said:


> How about you stop giving people half-assed advice on the internet, mate? Maybe you need a psych check-up.
> 
> RPM is not everything when it comes to fans. Fans can have different tuning or things that can influence their sound. I can tell you fans that sound like they are screeching as if the rotor was hitting the bearing at 600. And then fans that do not have enough static pressure, again, can produce a different sound when they hit a wall of copper...
> 
> Do you not use headphones, anyway? Unless you have a (rare?!) fetish for hugging your case and getting off on fan noise, most people do not sit with their face next to their case.
> 
> The define XL is a pretty long case, can't say certainly for glass, but the steel panels dampen very well. The only fan that is audible on my part is the gpu fan which sits right at the back. At 8-900 (usually spins around this curve) the arctics are very smooth, if you listen closely - no disturbing sound at all. There are plenty of details, mind you, that I can pick up during listening sessions and I absolutely hate bright audio gear, I did my whole amp+d/ac setup to avoid that. I don't think someone with aversion towards higher than 2800hz treble peaks would not hear fans and turbulence.
> 
> A lot of the nasty sound comes from trepidation and poor dampening, which, again, if you are a quietness-freak it should be the first thing you'd want to deal with. If you run 12 fans, it's common sense you're gonna freaking hear them, that's a whole heap of vibration and air pressure. Which most people don't, again. I don't think it's unreasonable to asses that. But it's very unlikely that top-5 fan picks aren't well-tuned (and there is a huge list of db tests and benchmarks available).


1. I know RPM, is not everything, i know all you said, and i also know that size and type of fan makes a lot of difference more than all other details you mentioned.
2. Even if by ear,...... you can't say something is silent while wearing headphones. It's just d**b. Not only that, but at those levels, with open back headphones, you gonna hear them leak through the headphones.
3. Most ppl do have their PC with the front, not away. Either it's on the ground or on the table, the front is almost always on their right side or left side, so.... so much for your theory. The only time that doesn't happen is when you put a monster of a case on the table.
4. Even with all you said, 1800rpm on (you must have at least 4 in a case that big), 4-8 fans is loud, very loud.
That's at least 40dba measured at 2 feet even in your conditions.

If you can barely hear that, I'm serious, and I don't mean it as an insult, nor i ment it before. You're either patting yourself on the shoulder or you should go visit a doctor, cus you have a hearing problem.

You should barely hear it when it's well bellow ambient threshold noise levels.


----------



## Owterspace

My Meshify C.. it can get pretty loud 🤫

But most of the time it’s good 🤘🏻


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## JAM3S121

My 2 fractal rigs


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## bebius

Owterspace said:


> My Meshify C.. it can get pretty loud 🤫
> 
> But most of the time it’s good 🤘🏻
> 
> View attachment 2522630
> View attachment 2522631


Simple beauty.
I didn't know I could add a front fan at the bottom in front of the HDDs. I'm going to try to implement it.
Also, are you running it without the front filter? 
Which cpu cooler is that?


----------



## Mergatroid

I have installed a Deep Cool 360mm RGB AIO water cooler.

This performs identically to the NZXT cooler I was using. When I removed it, I found the liquid ultra I used has started pitting the copper block.

No problem as the Deep Cool product gets good reviews, and seems to perform exactly the same using the same fans.
I also tweaked my RGB strips, but I still don't like how they meet in the rear top corner. I have a plan to fix that, but it will wait until I do some maintenance or another hardware install/mod.

I just hope the Deep Cool AIO is as reliable as other AIOs I have had.


----------



## GeneO

Very nice looking rig.

I just replaced the fans on my EK-AIO 360 with Phantek 120 T30 fans. Moved the radiator from top exhaust to a front pull configuration in my Meshify 2. Much cooler and quieter now, though not as pretty and the one tube just makes it (yes I must have the pump fittings oriented up or it doesn't fit).


----------



## Mergatroid

GeneO said:


> Very nice looking rig.
> 
> I just replaced the fans on my EK-AIO 360 with Phantek 120 T30 fans. Moved the radiator from top exhaust to a front pull configuration in my Meshify 2. Much cooler and quieter now, though not as pretty and the one tube just makes it (yes I must have the pump fittings oriented up or it doesn't fit).


Nice man. I like the green. Maybe a Borg build would be appropriate.


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## rexbinary

My Meshify 2 build. This is my first Fractal case, and I can't get over how nice it is. I've mostly built with Corsair cases and I still think they are nice, but this Meshify 2 is next level.


----------



## Owterspace

bebius said:


> Simple beauty.
> I didn't know I could add a front fan at the bottom in front of the HDDs. I'm going to try to implement it.
> Also, are you running it without the front filter?
> Which cpu cooler is that?


Thank you.

it was a tight squeeze with the TY and TL fans heheh. You should be able to, you might have to get a little creative with drive placement. Yes I am running with out any filters, and mesh. I have the top blocked with the “insulated” top fan covers from my Define R4, and the cooler is a Thermalright Frost Commander 140 running a single iPPC 3000, I did have a 120 iPPC on the front, but not really needed with the airflow my case has.


----------



## mil777

Thought I'd share my experience with the WC setup in the Define 7 XL.

Rads are HWLabs GTS 480 and GTS 360, Heatkiller Tube 200mm with a DDC pump, hardware specs in the sig. 
Excuse the dust and some mismatched fittings 😅










The first issue that was obvious right away is fitting the wide HWLabs radiator in the top, I wanted to put it in the holes that were closer to the motherboard and that required cutting a big chunk of metal up top through the entire length of the case.
I could've fit it in the 140mm holes but that would push it outwards towards the glass panel and my goal was to have the top rad aligned with the front rad fittings to allow for easy 90 degree bends later on with hard tubing.

When I was done with butchering the case and I screwed the rad to the inner top slot, it still didn't align with front rad.
The front rad basically has only one available position for 120 and one for 140.
If I try to put it to 140mm holes then I could only screw in one side and the other side could not by screwed in anywhere except maybe with zip ties.
That was disappointing with such a large case with support for big rads and they couldn't even make them align or provide more mounting holes.

Then later on as I tested the build I found that temps weren't what I was expecting for the available radiator surface.
With only 400W combined gaming load I'm seeing about 14C water-ambient delta with fans at 1500rpm and pump at full tilt, I was hoping to achieve 10C delta.
I've seen other people's builds that have better temps with 2x 360s while running higher wattage loads, so this was yet another disappointment.

I read that front fans push warm air into the top exhaust thus greatly reducing the cooling efficiency so I switched top fans to also intake, but there hasn't been a noticeable difference, maybe 1C at best.
Opening the front door and removing the filter knocks down 3-4 degrees but that is to be expected with such restrictive case but it's not how I would want to run this case daily.

Next thing that I could try is fitting an exhaust fan in the rear, there's also space in the basement for 2 fans but I'm not sure if there's any point in putting them down there.
Also maybe pushing that front rad up a bit so the fan closest to the bottom is not soaking the basement and recirculating that warm air.
But all of that wouldn't probably make more than 1C difference.

So I guess there isn't much more to extract from a silence-oriented case, maybe if it was a Meshify with better airflow


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## bebius

Ι'm not into water cooling at all so I can't help, but should't you also say which fans are those?


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## mil777

bebius said:


> Ι'm not into water cooling at all so I can't help, but should't you also say which fans are those?


Sorry I thought it was obvious from the photo, they're Arctic P12.


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## bebius

mil777 said:


> Sorry I thought it was obvious from the photo, they're Arctic P12.


I guess they are perfectly fine for that kind of job. 
Could it be that you are using two big radiators, and so it's difficult for the pump to move the water sufficiently?


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## mil777

This pump should be more than enough, especially at full speed. I've researched that way before of the purchase.
As evident by instant temperature drop when front restrictions are removed, this is largely an airflow issue.
But I can't exactly blame the case for this because Fractal already sells airflow cases and I knowingly went for Define series instead of Meshify because of the design.
Other than the issues I mentioned, the rest of the case is great and I don't regret the purchase (this is my 3rd Define case, but first with a custom loop build).

I will need to either add more fans or try out different fan configurations.
The standard front intake-top exhaust setup is less than ideal with a front panel like this (for dual rad watercooling specifically), I just wanted to share that in case anyone is interested in building custom loops in this case.
Or maybe someone had better results than me with this case and they can share their build 😊


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## bebius

I see.
Maybe you could try something @Shenhua told me for the Meshify C. Remove the hdd shroud top panel and rearrange the disks in order to add a bottom intake there. You may need to lift the case a bit from the ground (rubber/cork pieces) and this way, unobstructed cool air can get in the case from the bottom.
On top of that, you could also add an intake on the back. So that would make in total: 2 free flow intakes, 3 with heavy restriction (front rad) and 4 exhausts on top with mild restriction, assuming a ventilated top. It will end up probably as a positive pressure setup with much more air going in.


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## bebius

Has anyone installed a Liquid Freezer II 240 on the top of a Meshify C? I've done some calculations and it looks like it will fit. The only concern is my two Ripjaws V sticks.

Edit: The radiator+fans have a total height of 63mm. Maximum allowed height of motherboard elements for a top mounted 240 AIO is 40mm. So it's gonna be fine according to the measurements:


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## NotReadyYet

Trying to get better cooling on my Meshify 2 with OC 5900x and 3090. I have 3 140 Arctic Intane fans, an EK 360 AIO with 3 120 on the top as exhausted and one rear 120mm on the back as exhaust. Does a third party make a mesh side panel or something? My temps get into the low 80's while gaming. Thanks


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## rexbinary

NotReadyYet said:


> Trying to get better cooling on my Meshify 2 with OC 5900x and 3090. I have 3 140 Arctic Intane fans, an EK 360 AIO with 3 120 on the top as exhausted and one rear 120mm on the back as exhaust. Does a third party make a mesh side panel or something? My temps get into the low 80's while gaming. Thanks


I would try setting up your AIO as intake. Mine ran at 80 gaming as exhaust, but runs now at 70 as intake and GPU is around 70 as well with a bit of undervolting. Same case with three 140 intakes and one 140 exhaust. Using an Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 360 up top.


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## NotReadyYet

You got better GPU temperatures with it as an intake? That would mean I have 6 intake fans and 1 exhaust.


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## bebius

NotReadyYet said:


> You got better GPU temperatures with it as an intake? That would mean I have 6 intake fans and 1 exhaust.


It's a bit awkward situation, as you should indeed get lower temps if you set the aio as a front intake (fresh cool air directly on the radiator), but then you wouldn't need the top fans. Maybe you can set a bottom intake in the hdd space to supply more air to the gpu. Rear exhaust fan can help as always as it improves the front-to-rear stream and takes out the hot air above the gpu.


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## NotReadyYet

Yeah, unfortunately I don't have space on the bottom for a fan. I was thinking of getting one of those PCI-e coolers, but I don't think they look that pleasing to the eye. I suppose I can adjust the fan curve in bios for my intake fans. Would have liked to get one more fan in there. Oh well, I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks.


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## GeneO

NotReadyYet said:


> Trying to get better cooling on my Meshify 2 with OC 5900x and 3090. I have 3 140 Arctic Intane fans, an EK 360 AIO with 3 120 on the top as exhausted and one rear 120mm on the back as exhaust. Does a third party make a mesh side panel or something? My temps get into the low 80's while gaming. Thanks


With my Meshify 2 I have my EK-AIO 360 front mounted as pull intake with Phanteks T30 fans and a Noctua Chromax NF-A14 as exhaust in the rear - rest is open (with Meshify filters in place). I used to have the radiator top mounted push with the Vardar fans. The move to the front anfd the T30 made a world of difference with my CPU temps - I idle at < 1c above ambient and have reduced my coolant temperature significantly (measured as rad out - in temp differential). This is cooling an OC 10900k.

Cooling the memory and graphics card may be a challenge in this configuration. I only have a 2070 Super so the only temperature issue I have is RAM on some synthetic tests. I do plan on trying an NF-A14 as intake at the bottom of the case for the graphics, but haven't got around to it. I do have a NF-A14 as intake on the top above the RAM trying to the RAM, but I don't think it helps much.


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## rexbinary

NotReadyYet said:


> You got better GPU temperatures with it as an intake? That would mean I have 6 intake fans and 1 exhaust.


No, not better GPU. With the AIO set to exhaust the CPU goes up to 80 plus and the GPU lowers to the middle to upper 60s. With the AIO set to intake puts the CPU at 70 tops and GPU at 70 tops as well.

Yes that’s what I have, six intake and 1 exhaust. The front fans move way more air than the AIO. Anyway, that’s my result. It might be worth a try for you.


----------



## bebius

rexbinary said:


> No, not better GPU. With the AIO set to exhaust the CPU goes up to 80 plus and the GPU lowers to the middle to upper 60s. With the AIO set to intake puts the CPU at 70 tops and GPU at 70 tops as well.
> 
> Yes that’s what I have, six intake and 1 exhaust. The front fans move way more air than the AIO. Anyway, that’s my result. It might be worth a try for you.


My bad, I thought they asked about cpu temps after setting the AIO as intake.
Btw, I think top intakes are unnecessary as they contradict the front+bottom to top+back stream.


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## NotReadyYet

Saw this on Reddit, I know it looks ghetto but what do you guys think? Was unable to find out how they secured it though....


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## GeneO

If there are cables in the way underneath, I wonder if you could secure a fant to the top of the PSU shroud. I am in a bit of the same situation, since my rad is in front and with the T30 30mm thick fans, it just fits in the hole made by popping out the two front shroud covers.


----------



## Cory

Anyone here with experience with the Dynamic X2 GP-18 fans? I believe they come standard in the Torrent. I've got a Silverstone TJ08-e that I want to upgrade the fan in (the AP183 I bought somewhat recently is starting to make a ticking noise) and am wondering how the Fractal fans do. I think they should perform relatively well, as they are slightly thicker (38mm vs 32mm) and have a supposedly "long-life" sleeve bearing rated for 90k hrs vs the Silverstone's somewhat noisier ball bearings.


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## Deadroger

Hi, I have recently rebuilt my pc, of course reusing this lovely Fractal Meshify C case. I was very lucky that the HyperX Predator ram I bought a few years ago was short enough to allow me to fit a 240mm aio in the roof to replace the h80i v2 i did have in the top front as an intake. A much cleaner look now. Sorry for the rgb bling if not to your taste!


----------



## CrustyJuggler

Deadroger said:


> Hi, I have recently rebuilt my pc, of course reusing this lovely Fractal Meshify C case. I was very lucky that the HyperX Predator ram I bought a few years ago was short enough to allow me to fit a 240mm aio in the roof to replace the h80i v2 i did have in the top front as an intake. A much cleaner look now. Sorry for the rgb bling if not to your taste!
> 
> View attachment 2529862


No need to apologize for how you pimp your rig.  Looks nice and clean. What fans are this lose in front?


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## Deadroger

CrustyJuggler said:


> No need to apologize for how you pimp your rig.  Looks nice and clean. What fans are this lose in front?


Thanks! The front fans are Noctua NF-A14's.


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## Sleepycat

Just ordered a Torrent, after finding a shop here with stock of the new ones with the updated fan header and that the Meshify 2 being out of stock. Was trying to decide between the Torrent and Meshify 2 due to the 4x 3.5" drives that I have. Does anyone know if the 2x 3.5" drive rack from the Meshify 2 will fit in the Torrent's bottom fan mount tray?


----------



## rluker5

NotReadyYet said:


> Saw this on Reddit, I know it looks ghetto but what do you guys think? Was unable to find out how they secured it though....
> View attachment 2528342


If you want a side fan you can get way more ghetto than that 
This is my Define C:
















I had a similar situation to you. Picked up a 3080 and wanted more, and quieter cooling. Remembered how well the side panel fan in my old Define R4 worked when I ran sli.
Compared to the price of enjoyment of a 3080, much less a 3090, the price of a whole new case isn't much. And if you spent more time I'm sure you could do a cleaner job than I did.


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## Mergatroid

Spoiler






Deadroger said:


> Hi, I have recently rebuilt my pc, of course reusing this lovely Fractal Meshify C case. I was very lucky that the HyperX Predator ram I bought a few years ago was short enough to allow me to fit a 240mm aio in the roof to replace the h80i v2 i did have in the top front as an intake. A much cleaner look now. Sorry for the rgb bling if not to your taste!
> 
> View attachment 2529862






That looks awesome clean dude. Nice job.


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## Lodbroke

Hi
Haven't been that interested in computers for a long time... But storms outside and shut in for the weekend :/
This is my 2015 FD Core 1300 case, slightly modified to suit me.








The handles are drawer handles used to wind up cables mostly









The motherboard battery died 2020, this is dust build up since replaced the GFX in 2019...
The CPU-cooler still runs quietly after more than six years.

Core 1300 have of the shops shelf's for almost a half decade, but mine is a keeper.
Did repaint it 2015 and the white is still mostly white, thougth it gotten a patina of yellowish (summer sun blamed for that)
Painted it with spray cans outdoor (summer 2015) when knots and mosquito's was out in numbers some still engraved in the paint :/

The comp still have it's 2015 motherboard, CPU and Fans (3:rd party) but the Graphic cards has been replaced a couple of times, now is an Aurous 1070.
And chocking for some same Win7 as in 2015 (reinstalled at least a couple of times), Main OS's are some 2 or 3 Linux distro's.

The computer will serve for many years yet, as todays windows doesn't suit me, and there are too few games for Linux still.


----------



## Sid6.0

I am a huge fan of fractal have had my Fractal Define XL R2 for around 5 or 6 years, I am currently doing a new build with a 12900kf and water and want to go with a define 7 xl. I was wondering if anyone would know if there would be anyway to put a 420mm rad up top and a 280mm or 240mm rad on the front of the case and still have room for a optical drive? could cutting up the drive bay with a Dremel to make room for the 420mm work? I kind of don't want to have an external drive on my desk as space is at a premium.


----------



## Dreamliner

Sid6.0 said:


> I am a huge fan of fractal have had my Fractal Define XL R2 for around 5 or 6 years, I am currently doing a new build with a 12900kf and water and want to go with a define 7 xl. I was wondering if anyone would know if there would be anyway to put a 420mm rad up top and a 280mm or 240mm rad on the front of the case and still have room for a optical drive? could cutting up the drive bay with a Dremel to make room for the 420mm work? I kind of don't want to have an external drive on my desk as space is at a premium.


Definitely not. A 360mm won’t even fit with an optical dive. Here’s an image from the fractal site:


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## Eviangelion

I have a trusty Define R4 and I'm facing a problem with its hard drive trays: they aren't compatible with WD's (and other brands') mounting screws locations for high capacity drives above 8 TB or so (It's the second of these two diagrams).










I was looking forward to placing at least three drives of this type in my cage and this has become a showstopper. I consulted with Fractal Design and they had no solution to offer: their current cases' HD cages can't be mounted inside old models like mine. I was wondering if anyone had met this problem and had managed to solve it somehow.


----------



## Multiplectic

My current Fractal builds...

My main PC inside a brand new Meshy 2:










AWESOME airflow compared to my old Define R5.
And my old R5 has been turned into a sort of home storage server:


----------



## GeneO

Eviangelion said:


> I have a trusty Define R4 and I'm facing a problem with its hard drive trays: they aren't compatible with WD's (and other brands') mounting screws locations for high capacity drives above 8 TB or so (It's the second of these two diagrams).
> 
> View attachment 2536310
> 
> 
> I was looking forward to placing at least three drives of this type in my cage and this has become a showstopper. I consulted with Fractal Design and they had no solution to offer: their current cases' HD cages can't be mounted inside old models like mine. I was wondering if anyone had met this problem and had managed to solve it somehow.


Drill?


----------



## Multiplectic

Eviangelion said:


> I have a trusty Define R4 and I'm facing a problem with its hard drive trays: they aren't compatible with WD's (and other brands') mounting screws locations for high capacity drives above 8 TB or so (It's the second of these two diagrams).


Can't you just use the two screws closest to the SATA connectors?
Install all 4 rubber supports but just 2 screws. The drives will rest on all 4 rubber supports and the 2 screws should stop them from moving back and forth.


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## Dreamliner

Eviangelion said:


> I was wondering if anyone had met this problem and had managed to solve it somehow.


I have an R4 also. I just used the 2 mounts, it was fine. You’ll also find the top positions in the drive cages don’t have enough clearance for high capacity drives either because there is a plastic nub that’s part of the cage bracket. I ground them down too and was able to load it up with whatever drives I wanted.


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## Sid6.0

Dreamliner said:


> Definitely not. A 360mm won’t even fit with an optical dive. Here’s an image from the fractal site:


Thank you, Ok if I have to use a remote optical drive I'd like to go with the thickest 420mm rad's that I can. could you fit any of the 55mm-60mm thick rads in a pair in this case and would you have room for push pull or just push or pull?


----------



## Dreamliner

Sid6.0 said:


> Thank you, Ok if I have to use a remote optical drive I'd like to go with the thickest 420mm rad's that I can. could you fit any of the 55mm-60mm thick rads in a pair in this case and would you have room for push pull or just push or pull?


Looking at page 45 of the manual it shows a 360 radiator possibly being able to fit with an optical drive but I'm not sure. I'd probably email Fractal and ask them these questions. They don't seem to have measurement info for maximum depth and all their photos show normal radiators. Product page: Define 7 XL

I do have a Define 7 XL but use air cooling only. I like the way water looks, but I don't want to deal with the complexity, maintenance or reliability issues.


----------



## rluker5

Updated my Define C build with a 12700k. Just showing it off.


----------



## Eviangelion

Multiplectic said:


> Can't you just use the two screws closest to the SATA connectors?
> Install all 4 rubber supports but just 2 screws. The drives will rest on all 4 rubber supports and the 2 screws should stop them from moving back and forth.





Dreamliner said:


> I have an R4 also. I just used the 2 mounts, it was fine. You’ll also find the top positions in the drive cages don’t have enough clearance for high capacity drives either because there is a plastic nub that’s part of the cage bracket. I ground them down too and was able to load it up with whatever drives I wanted.


Thank you both. I'll give it a try (I am rather wary of using just two screws, but your experience seems to mirror other users of high capacity HDs, so…).


----------



## Whach

Love my Torrent! Great airflow =)


----------



## elzhi

fractal have done it again, such a great case !

btw what's that fancy looking LED strip you're using ?


----------



## Whach

elzhi said:


> fractal have done it again, such a great case !
> 
> btw what's that fancy looking LED strip you're using ?


it’s a couple of the Phanteks NEON digital rgb strips chained together. Really bendy and diffused. I find them more consistent and subtle. Especially the neon vibes


----------



## elzhi

thanks ! 

it does give it a nice soft, even glow, really cool


----------



## Whach

elzhi said:


> thanks !
> 
> it does give it a nice soft, even glow, really cool


Np!


----------



## Gamer2021

I currently own a Fractal Design 7XL and man I love this case, not what I wanted but it does the job perfectly.


----------



## Mnemonic

i have gotten the define 7 , titanium grey with light tinted window. Waiting on the pcie extension flex vrc-25 to arrive and finish the build.
This case was just the perfect companion for my MSI MAG Z590 Tomahawk WIFI (11700k). it has just the right amounts and types of USB ports on the front to match the mobo.

Reasons i got the vrc-25 riser is not only for esthetics , but it will also move a heat source (even when it's watercooled vega 64) away from the ram and nvme drives.
This i hope will extend performance and life-time of Ram (4sticks 32 GB corsair vengeance) and Nvme SSD's. (980 pro 250 GB and 970 evo plus 2 TB)


----------



## Sleepycat

I'm running the torrent now and the air flow is amazing. The back of the torrent is really perforated and open, so make sure you don't have roaches in your room!


----------



## Whach

Pics or it didn’t happen


----------



## Sleepycat

Please don't mind my messy desk, still clearing it.

I bought the 3080 XC3 Ultra at launch as it was the only card that would fit my old case. With the Torrent, it makes me wish that I went for a longer card with better cooling or a large 3090.


----------



## Jaszczur

I currently have a Meshify 2 Dark TG case, I would like to replace it with a quieter one. 
Which of these 2 versions will be the most quieter: 
Define 7 Solid or Define 7 Dark TG ?.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Jaszczur said:


> 7 Solid or Define 7 Dark TG


None of them. The winner would be ur Meshify2 + better /silent fans.


----------



## Jaszczur

TeslaHUN said:


> None of them. The winner would be ur Meshify2 + better /silent fans.


I would like to mute graphics cards, now all have coil whine. I have now Meshify 2 + all Noctua fans +CPU too ........
The casing is too quiet, in the sense that you can just hear the squeaking from the cards. I'd rather hide it at the expense of the temperatures.


----------



## TeslaHUN

Jaszczur said:


> I would like to mute graphics cards, now all have coil whine. I have now Meshify 2 + all Noctua fans +CPU too ........
> The casing is too quiet, in the sense that you can just hear the squeaking from the cards. I'd rather hide it at the expense of the temperatures.


Ahh I see . I had annoying coil whine on my GamingX1080ti also . Nothing helped really ,just the max fps lock ( MSI Afterburner) .The more fps u have , the more whine it create .Luckily I "only " had 120hz monitor ,so 118fps limit solved it more or less.
Until.... I watercooled the card . So the vga fans could not hide the still existing small whine . I built a new case with thick 8mm glass panel ,and finally i could not hear anything


----------



## Mnemonic

And here is my new master setup, just today received the Corsair K100 as the final piece of a new setup.
All build on the basis of my also new fractal design define 7.
























Some specs:

Fractal Design Define 7 (titanium grey with the light tinted window)
MSI z590 tomahawk WIFI
i7-11700K + 1 MSI mag 240 AIO WC.
32 GB Corsair vengeance 3600 18-22-22-42
1 Samsung 980 PRO 250 GB nvme as bootdrive @ Gen 4.0
1 Samsung 970 evo plus 2TB nvme Gen 3.0 for the games.
1 Samsung 840 250 GB + 1 Samsung 850 250 GB + 1 Kingston uv400 240 GB + 1 intel 520 series 240 GB SSD's together as a MS storage space of 960 GB (softraid).
1 Toshiba 3 TB HD for more data
1 external WD 2 TB HD even more data.
1 AMD Vega 64 XTX watercooled. With the fractal design riser flex vrc-25.
1 Plextor DVD-RW
1 Corsair void elite surround usb
1 Corsair K100 opto mechanical keyboard. (this keyclacker is just AMAZING)
1 Logitech G502 mouse + pad.
1 IIyama Gold Phoenix 28" 4K freesync
1 LG 50" 50UP75 4K HDR. (ips)
1 creative 5.1 speaker set (pretty darn old but it keeps going like a champ)
powered by 1 Corsair HX1000i psu. (edited , i forgot to mention this)
and a hell of lot of aRGB... (i know there's way more rgb abundance out there)

and now i'm gonna have me some bleedin edge Fun with it. 🤪

it's been 8 years with my old trusty i7-3770 and it was time for this.

Hope some of you can appreciate this and/or even get some ideas from it. (The desktop is running Wallpaper engine if anyone wonders).

Well, greetings to you all and have a REAL good year this one, without the rona.


----------



## burnoutmalle

Moved the hardware from the Meshify 2 XL to the Torrent Compact.
The Torrent Compact should have been just 15mm wider (5mm on the interior, 10mm on the back).
I am happy with the case.


----------



## Shenhua

burnoutmalle said:


> Moved the hardware from the Meshify 2 XL to the Torrent Compact.
> The Torrent Compact should have been just 15mm wider (5mm on the interior, 10mm on the back).
> I am happy with the case.
> 
> View attachment 2548304


Since you have the case, here goes a question:

Can you fit and mount 2x140mm in the bottom with a 60mm AIO (arctic 360mm) in the front?

Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## burnoutmalle

Yes, 2 x 140 mm Fans and the 60 mm thick AIO Radiator fit.


----------



## Shenhua

Hahaha, looks like you can but case limits you to GPUs not much longer than 300mm+
tnx


----------



## Falkentyne

Dreamliner said:


> Definitely not. A 360mm won’t even fit with an optical dive. Here’s an image from the fractal site:


A define 7 XL will fit with a 360mm top + an ODD, however you have to get creative about the installation.
Instead of installing the 360mm in the top bracket with the top bracket completely removed (the usual convenience way) and then installed with the AIO attached to it,, then screwed into the case, you have to install the AIO with the bracket already on the case, move the AIO as far back towards the back as possible, and then screw it in into the bracket while holding the AIO up, until you get enough screws into the holes to keep it in. Then the optical drive will fit. You won't be able to secure the bracket into the case properly if you install the AIO with the bracket outside the case because there isn't enough clearance. It's annoying but it works.

Unless you actually use an optical drive daily, you may be better off just getting a Liteon USB slim optical drive and using that instead.


----------



## S4squatch

I just built a new Alder Lake system with a Noctua theme in Define R6. It was time to update my computer after 10 years of using a Sandy Bridge system in a Define Mini case. Here is the result.


----------



## rluker5

S4squatch said:


> I just built a new Alder Lake system with a Noctua theme in Define R6. It was time to update my computer after 10 years of using a Sandy Bridge system in a Define Mini case. Here is the result.
> View attachment 2556378
> 
> View attachment 2556379


So clean!


----------



## S4squatch

rluker5 said:


> So clean!


Thank you.


----------



## Multiplectic

Sooo, this was my previous home storage server:



Multiplectic said:


>


And after a few minor upgrades, this is how it looks now:










Bought a couple of 16TB Exos X16 to set up in RAID1 and retire some old 2TB and 3TB HDDs.
Aaaand a cheap C7H I got to run the old 1600AF I had in the closet. The Quadro is gone, I got a very very cheap V4900 to replace it.


----------



## shilka

Multiplectic said:


> Sooo, this was my previous home storage server:
> 
> 
> 
> And after a few minor upgrades, this is how it looks now:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a couple of 16TB Exos X16 to set up in RAID1 and retire some old 2TB and 3TB HDDs.
> Aaaand a cheap C7H I got to run the old 1600AF I had in the closet. The Quadro is gone, I got a very very cheap V4900 to replace it.


Thats a pretty good looking server the only thing that stands out is that EVGA PSU which is not very good and i would not trust that many drives on a cheap EVGA PSU with only a 3 year warranty

You might want to consider buying something to replace it

Speaking of servers i have been looking into getting some new drives to replace my 12, 14 and 16 TB drives but i am not sure if i want to pay for Ironwolf Pro drives anymore or if i should switch to Exos drives?

Where is live its $218 cheaper for an 18 TB Exos vs the Ironwolf Pro and its $145 cheaper for the 20 TB
If i need to add more than 2 drives i also need to buy a HBA card since my motherboard only has x8 SATA ports

I got 87 TB of space in mine 1x 12 TB, 1x 14 TB, 1x 16 TB and 3x 18 TB
Want to replace the smaller drives


----------



## Multiplectic

shilka said:


> Thats a pretty good looking server the only thing that stands out is that EVGA PSU which is not very good and i would not trust that many drives on a cheap EVGA PSU with only a 3 year warranty


I get it, but, how much is that config pulling from the PSU...? 100W, maybe?
I'm not worried.


----------



## User23566235

Hi, I'm wondering If anyone here tried experimenting with fan layout in Torrent, like for instance 4x180mm instead of stock setup or is the back exhaust fan makes any difference?


----------



## User23566235

Hello again.
Finally moved the system to Torrent.
Do you think putting fan at the back of GPU can potentially improve the temps? I can't say I'm not satisfied with them, but maybe they can be better?


Spoiler: Like this


----------



## Multiplectic

Naaaah, you already have FIVE intake fans, TONS of positive pressure that would overpower any kind of -regular- fan you could install there as an exhaust.


----------



## User23566235

Multiplectic said:


> Naaaah, you already have FIVE intake fans, TONS of positive pressure that would overpower any kind of -regular- fan you could install there as an exhaust.


You're probably right, I can feel the air coming back near the HDMI ports, probably the airflow from first 140mm getting reflected by GPU shroud.
The idea with exhaust fan was to not let hot GPU air back into the case, since 180mm is too far away to counter that and hot GPU air goes up into CPU/PSU pushed by 140mm. 
Maybe just put the exhaust fan in regular position but I saw tests didn't show any difference in temps with that addition.


----------



## Multiplectic

Cause the Torrent is meant to be a positive pressure case. That's why the entire backside is mesh.


----------



## User23566235

Multiplectic said:


> Cause the Torrent is meant to be a positive pressure case. That's why the entire backside is mesh.


you're right, its completely unnecessary.
On the topic of Torrent, anyone here had trouble with noisy fans?
seems like one of the GP18 is making noise which is amplified by the emty space in when I close the case, I'm not even sure I can replace the case considering how hard it's to prove anything like this.


----------



## Multiplectic

Vibrating, oscillating?
Maybe you can try using rubber fan mounts and see if that changes anything.


----------



## User23566235

Multiplectic said:


> Vibrating, oscillating?
> Maybe you can try using rubber fan mounts and see if that changes anything.


it's a tuck tuck sound that gets faster when I increase RPM on my bottom fan, nothing else affects it. Top fan also makes some kind of weird noise, more high-pitched one and I could only hear it at higher RPM with the front cover removed.
I already have sound dampening mounts installed to prevent any vibrations on all fans in the case


----------



## Multiplectic

Sounds like a bearing off-center. One of the blades might be touching the fan's frame.


----------



## User23566235

Multiplectic said:


> Sounds like a bearing off-center. One of the blades might be touching the fan's frame.


It can only be heard from the top of the case, when I put my ear close to the fan itself there is only air noise.
I'm going to be honest here, the design of the Torrent is pretty good but quality of plastic mold and fans is not great.


Spoiler














edit: I opened the case and one of the fans indeed makes that noise, however I managed to reduce the volume of it by gluing the stands made out of thick compressed foam to the rubber stands of the case, basically just reducing the vibration.


----------



## User23566235

swapped the fans, same issue with bottom one. I have no idea what to think, just wasted my time on this, sucks


----------



## Atmosfear86

Here's my Fractal Meshify (Not sure which model lol) it has been an ongoing build since about 2019ish. First iteration was a Ryzen 5 2600 on air with a Vega 64. Now I'm running a 5800X with the cooler master AIO and the 6800XT. I have added another 16gb kit of memory since this photo was taken though. Really happy with the case and the quality of it. Second photo is the first build in this case.


----------



## Multiplectic

If you were ever wondering if a Liquid Freezer II 420 fits in a Meshify 2...










But it's a VERY TIGHT FIT...



Spoiler: TIGHT INDEED







































I had to remove the mobo's I/O plastic cover, and if I had taller RAM modules I'd be screwed. Only a 120mm fan fits in the rear, and only 2x140mm fans in the front.
Also, this orientation/setup is THE ONLY ONE that works. The only one that fits.
So, people, measure TWENTY times before even adding to cart...


----------



## User23566235

User23566235 said:


> Hello again.
> Finally moved the system to Torrent.
> Do you think putting fan at the back of GPU can potentially improve the temps? I can't say I'm not satisfied with them, but maybe they can be better?


Replying to myself because after all I put a 140mm fan at the back of Torrent, but slightly lower than mounting holes are and I saw some improvements in CPU/GPU temps.
That might be a placebo effect because I didn't bother to do a proper before/after testing.


----------



## raggazam

Made some changes simplifying trace and push pull.



Spoiler















































And now I'm going to make some changes with the new toys that have arrived



Spoiler


----------



## Multiplectic

That is CLEAN and NOICE.


----------



## The Pook




----------



## Multiplectic

I saw that too.


----------



## raggazam

jajajaja muchos chicos se fijaron en el detalle


----------



## Skylinestar

What do you guys think of replacing the Define R5 with Pop XL Air? Want to maintain the same quietness but with more airflow and minimum cost. Need that 5.25" drive bay for my DVD writer.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

Skylinestar said:


> What do you guys think of replacing the Define R5 with Pop XL Air? Want to maintain the same quietness but with more airflow and minimum cost. Need that 5.25" drive bay for my DVD writer.


the Define R6 has 5.25 slots, the new POP series seems funky..hahaha..though yeah the POP XL looks good (for me)


----------



## Raphie

Pop looks good, orange with Noctua build yummie!


----------



## Valka814

Meshify S2. Yes, I like black and white together.


----------



## Mergatroid

So I finally finished my 10th gen build. It was mostly done previously but had some issues with the alignment of a fan and the two 1m aRGB strips. I also replaced the aRGB M.2 heatsink with one a friend sent me. Finally, I added the EVGA RTX 3080 Ti FTW. This card, of course, requires three 8-pin power connectors, so I had to either add another one of the XPG 8-pin RGB extensions (they only come in sets of 2) or replace them with the Lian Li 24-pin Strimer Plus and the 3080 Ti 3 x 8-pin Strimer Plus. I chose the latter because I could reverse the side the RGB is on which allows the strimer to come up to the GPU from the bottom.

Everything is syncing on the ASUS motherboard controller. The Strimer controller will default to the internal RGB patterns if the main power supply switch is shut off, but as long as the main power stays on, the controller will default to whatever you set, in this case the ASUS main board controller.

I was thinking about experimenting with everything plugging into the Lian Li controller that comes with the Strimers, but since I have a 12 connector aRGB hub, it would have taken a lot of time to get everything set up so it would make any kind of sense when syncing. I think the hub basically treats everything plugged into it as one device, or rather everything plugged into the hub all does the same thing, so you cannot sequence anything plugged into it. Maybe some day I will try but really, too much time would be involved to experiment and see what could be done.





















Here is a short video of the RGB in action.

Done. Fini. Complete. No more.....till next time.


----------



## Mergatroid

Sigh....I lied.
I removed the 2 x 1m Phanteks aRGB strips. I have been having problems getting them the way I want because they are just too damn long. I really wish they would make a version you could cut the end off of to shorten them. I would also like to see a set that can clip together on the ends. I just don't know if both of these things could be done on one strip. Some type of small attachment that, after cutting the end, could be inserted to make contact with some conductive pads in the cut end of the strip, and then you could clip that end to the next strip.

Yeah I know, wishful thinking.

So, I bought two strips that were a little over 1/2 meter (560mm or thereabouts). These fit perfectly across the top and bottom. I already had a spare pair that were a little smaller, and they fit up the back and the front. This means that each corner is free of bends and the cables do not wrap around. I was thinking of connecting them so that the RGB would go around clockwise, with each strip showing the same thing, but when I installed them I realized I would just plug two strips into the location where I had a single 1m strip plugged in, and being lazy that what I did. That way I didn't have to rewire everything.

I moved all the cables that were between the video card and the motherboard tray through the management hole that was closest to the motherboard so you can no longer see them.

I have ordered an aRGB plaque that is going to replace the two starship SSD covers since there are no SSDs in that location. This plaque will have a tall picture of Earth Spacedock that will cover the front of the motherboard tray from top to bottom. Custom made (check out Etsy, Custom RGB GPU Brackets - Etsy Canada , they make great stuff).

Unfortunately, I am having a problem with my RGB right now, and it seems it may be a limitation of some kind. I am going to look for an RGB thread, and if I cannot find one I will start one. I think I need some advice as I cannot seem to figure out what is causing the issue. I think I might have too much RGB. Yes, believe it or not, apparently you can have too much RGB.

I also purchased the USB2 controller for my two LianLi Strimers. It plugs into a USB2 header on the motherboard, so you can change the patterns using software. Unfortunately it has no pass through so you cannot make the patterns work on anything else, just the strimers. AND, again unfortunately, when I plug it into my hub so the motherboard signal can pass to them, my front three fans turn white. I did some rearranging and I thought I got it working, but when I put the right side panel back on and turned my PC, the rear two fans on my 360 rad are not working (just the RGB), while the frontmost fan is working. These fans are daisychained to each other. So, I am wondering if I have too many LEDs hooked up, or if there is an issue with the control signal being loaded down too much with too many devices.

I ordered another hub (so one for the bottom aRGB connector and one for the top), and it just arrived along with a couple of extensions I will see what I can do.
I was trying to find a hub with, I don't know, not an amplifier, but maybe a repeater that would allow more devices to work off of the motherboard signal but I can't find one anywhere. All the hubs I can find, although powered, do not fortify the aRGB signal.


I will post the results once I get everything working again, and the new plaque installed. Hopefully someone else will have posted in the meantime to break up my posts.


----------



## Fernicious

raggazam said:


> [/SPOILER]
> 
> And now I'm going to make some changes with the new toys that have arrived
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2564184
> 
> 
> View attachment 2564182


Que monstruo es ese? 4x200mm? es una caja? es un radiador con chasis? es un añadido para poner sobre el lateral de tu Fractal? WOW!!

Sorry, my apologies.
I was asking for what kind of case was that, that has 4x 200mm noctua fans.
I Don't know if it's a case, a radiator or an addon for a Fractal case. It's amazing


----------



## zzztopzzz

What?


----------



## Owterspace

A quick shot of my Torrent Compact:


----------



## CrustyJuggler

@Owterspace Is the cable management in the Torrent Compact as problematic as the reviewers make it out? I've been eyeballing the compact as an upgrade to my Meshify C.


----------



## Fernicious

@CrustyJuggler , Sure it is. It is a pain in the ass. You have to put the cables. Put again. Be really carefull. Think where do you want to route them. Try again, and try, and try.
It is the most waste of time of the crafting of the computer.
But in the end, you got it and you can relax and see this state of art of case.
I really love my compact one.
Would I buy it again knowing the problem of the cable routing? Of course.
Now a can close the back crystal panel without any effort.


----------



## Owterspace

CrustyJuggler said:


> @Owterspace Is the cable management in the Torrent Compact as problematic as the reviewers make it out? I've been eyeballing the compact as an upgrade to my Meshify C.


It wasn’t bad, I have a simple system though.. The glass panel covering the back side snapped in on both sides with no bulging. You do have to take some care though..


----------



## Always Counterclockwise

Owterspace said:


> It wasn’t bad, I have a simple system though.


Same for me. I built in the white version for the metal cable side cover as a precaution but avoiding glass to cable contact and getting decent looks doesn't strike me as too hard, though power supplies with especially fat 28 pin cables might be problematic.



CrustyJuggler said:


> Is the cable management in the Torrent Compact as problematic as the reviewers make it out?


Gamers Nexus is the one review I've hit which particularly seemed to emphasize this and, as Steve says, if you have a complex build with ARGB and multiple 2.5 drives and want it all to look really clean and pretty through glass you're going to put some time into it. If it's a black solid or white build I can't see reason for concern.

What I found worked best was 1) to run the 28 pin motherboard cable down and turn it 180 back up to plug into the motherboard, using the case straps as hold downs to keep it clear of the side panel, and 2) bundle excess top IO cable length right behind the IO board, compressing the bundle with twist ties. That freed up enough room to pack the extra 8 pin power and SATA cable length into the strap across from the power supply, leaving decent spaces for the top front intake fan to send up some air. It's not great airflow—without vents in the top cover there's no good place for air to go—but the drive and PSU temperatures I got from it are acceptable up to around 35 °C ambient.


----------



## Owterspace

I run my power first, then do the fans, then lights. I only have one 2.5 drive installed, my backup drive that I dump to. You could probably pull the drive sleds out to free up some more space if you aren’t going to use them.. I left mine in. I got the RGB model because that’s all that was in stock, and was only 20 bucks more than the others. I think it looks pretty sharp with glass on both sides.


----------



## Always Counterclockwise

Owterspace said:


> You could probably pull the drive sleds out to free up some more space if you aren’t going to use them.


There's a 3.5 in my build but pulling the 3.5 sled might be worth it just for simplifying PSU access and case IO cable routing. If there's no other use for the space, bundling cables into the 3.5 sled area is probably the cleanest option for placing excess power cable length. Left all three 2.5 sleds in place as I don't have any cables needing to go to or through that area.

Since the motherboard I used has seven fan connectors I also didn't hook up the kind of silly fan hub Fractal includes (not sure why anyone would pick a Torrent Compact for push pull front 360 rad but it still seems like a 1:6+1:3 hub for front and bottom fans, respectively, would make more sense than Fractal's 1:9). Did leave the hub in place as a cable guide for the bottom Dynamic X2 GP-18 fan. Left the cable for the case LED strip sitting next to the power supply up top.


----------



## Owterspace

My backside isn't the nicest, but it works ok 

I did have the fans wired up wrong in that pic.










Edit:

Managed to squeeze a 140 in the back


----------



## Whach

Lots of great photos and builds here. Below is my current beasty. Thinking of getting some lightwing fans for the cooler, might a little too much though.


----------



## CrustyJuggler

My Meshify C build. I added the white cable extensions tonight along with a gpu repaste with some TF7. Runs pretty quite and the repaste is already yielding temp drops.


----------



## CrustyJuggler

So I did a thing, and it fits with 5mm to spare.  Sapphire Pulse 6800. Still lots of tweaking but a bit of an undervolt and OC, and it runs cool and quiet.









View attachment 2572679


----------



## SeW800

Hey Fractal Design owners!

I'm making a new build, and wanted to ask, how are your HDD temperatures in the Torrent and Meshify 2 cases after prolonged usage?

I'm worried about the Torrent case, with the HDD being in the back that the airflow is not sufficient. I use my computer for work, and usually have it powered on for 12-16 hours per day. Perhaps there is a case from Fractal that's good enough for airflow on the CPU/GPU, but also has some active cooling over 3.5" HDDs? I'll be using 2x HDD, 1x SATA SSD, and 1x M.2 SSD.

Thanks!


----------



## shilka

SeW800 said:


> Hey Fractal Design owners!
> 
> I'm making a new build, and wanted to ask, how are your HDD temperatures in the Torrent and Meshify 2 cases after prolonged usage?
> 
> I'm worried about the Torrent case, with the HDD being in the back that the airflow is not sufficient. I use my computer for work, and usually have it powered on for 12-16 hours per day. Perhaps there is a case from Fractal that's good enough for airflow on the CPU/GPU, but also has some active cooling over 3.5" HDDs? I'll be using 2x HDD, 1x SATA SSD, and 1x M.2 SSD.
> 
> Thanks!


I dont have a Torrent but i do have a Define 7 XL which is a Meshify 2 with another front panel
I have six hard drives in the front and none of them goes above 40c even after a full days work

Dont know if that helps you or not


----------



## Multiplectic

SeW800 said:


> Perhaps there is a case from Fractal that's good enough for airflow on the CPU/GPU, but also has some active cooling over 3.5" HDDs?


As a Meshy 2 owner, that's the case for you.


----------



## SeW800

shilka said:


> I dont have a Torrent but i do have a Define 7 XL which is a Meshify 2 with another front panel
> I have six hard drives in the front and none of them goes above 40c even after a full days work
> 
> Cool, I didn't expect that result - was worried it might hit 50-60C
> 
> Dont know if that helps you or not





Multiplectic said:


> As a Meshy 2 owner, that's the case for you.


Thanks! Indeed, the Meshify 2 looks like the right balance between cooling and managing storage.


----------



## Multiplectic

Just make sure you don't have a 420 rad or AIO, cause that will block you from using the "storage configuration".
If you do have a 420 rad or AIO, go for the Meshy 2 XL.


----------



## GeneO

SeW800 said:


> Thanks! Indeed, the Meshify 2 looks like the right balance between cooling and managing storage.


Just be aware it is mesh case on top and front, so your disk drive noise will be louder than in, say, a Fractal R7.


----------



## shilka

SeW800 said:


> Thanks! Indeed, the Meshify 2 looks like the right balance between cooling and managing storage.


I have both the Define 7 XL and the Meshify 2 XL and the latter is very annoying because there is zero noise noise dampening in the Meshify 2
If you plan to have more than 2 hard drives and you are noise sensitive the Define 7 XL is the better case even if the air flow is slightly worse

Like i said even with 6 hard drives and a full day of work they only go above 40c in the summer since i dont have AC


----------



## criccio

I have a custom 24-pin and 12-pin PCIe on the way and I've had some great ideas to get a little extra lighting into the center of the case where its currently a bit of a black hole. I plan to re-arrange things on this desk so I can better see the front of the case which is part of the appeal.


----------



## Mergatroid

Sigh...so I swore I was going to stop spending money on my PC after I got the Lian Li strimers. That lasted about a month or two.
I had ordered a custom aRGB plaque/picture to cover the big blank spot at the front of my case. I ordered it on Etsy.ca.
When I received it, I wasn't too happy. They took the picture I wanted and stretched it vertically. The Plexy it was mounted on was warped, and there was a big chip in the top corner where the aRGB wire came out.

They agreed to do another one for me, but it took almost two months to get it done and shipped. I finally got it this week. While I was waiting, I ordered in some Lian Li Uni fans to go with my Strimers. I picked up a set of 5 120mm, and three 140mm. I also picked up a new aRGB Hub and a NZXT Internal USB hub that I ended up not needing.

The plaque/picture again is not perfect. They had sent me a sample picture online, and I had asked them if they could add another cm on the width because the furthest sides of the space dock were cut off, and they told me it wouldn't make any difference. I don't see how that could be. I offered to pay extra for it. Now that I have it installed, the width is good but the picture should have been shrunk slightly so it would fit correctly. To make matters worse, they placed about a 1cm border all around the picture. I think if they hadn't done that the entire picture would have fit correctly. I was going to put in a plug for them if they did a good job, but I can't rightfully recommend them because of these issues. There is another fellow on Etsy making similar products. If I ever do something like this again, I will give him a try.

For people who may be considering these fans, the controllers the sets come with use the L-Connect 3 software and plug into a USB header. Same with the optional controller for the strimers. I haven't had a chance to put them through their RGB paces yet as it's after 3:00am here right now, but I did do a quick video showing them under motherboard control displaying unicorn puke rainbow colours. I'm going to do a short video later showing all the patterns and how the fans display them with the strimers.

This also gave me a chance to clean up my wiring in the back a little bit considering I had a few less wires. The new aRGB hub worked great, and seems to be built slightly better than the previous one I was using. I also learned my lesson and purchased extra: aRGB extensions, splitters, and the male/male pins to have on hand. Nothing like spending hours working on RGB just to find something doesn't reach, or you need a splitter, or you have two female cables that need to be joined. As it is, I had to use a small PWM splitter as an extension and a long one as an extension as well because I had none kicking around. Lucky I had the splitters or I would have had to make some extensions.

So here are a few pics and a link to the short video I made. The fans look pretty good, but they could be a little brighter. The three 140mm fans at the front don't show up very well from the outside. The Earth Space Dock picture looks great and fits perfectly.

Oh, and I tucked that wire under the GPU support away after taking the pictures.







































I would say the build is finished, but we all know how that goes....

Video Goodness...


----------



## Mergatroid

criccio said:


> I have a custom 24-pin and 12-pin PCIe on the way and I've had some great ideas to get a little extra lighting into the center of the case where its currently a bit of a black hole. I plan to re-arrange things on this desk so I can better see the front of the case which is part of the appeal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2577951
> 
> View attachment 2577952
> 
> View attachment 2577953



I like that look. It's like "Stealth PC".


----------



## InsideJob

Recently picked up a pop air case in green


----------



## Elrick

InsideJob said:


> Recently picked up a pop air case in green


Nice TOP Down cooling on the CPU. We don't see that much, here on this forum any more  .

For myself, that has always been the original type of Air Cooling for any CPU. Keeping it real and authentic, here on OCN    .


----------



## criccio

criccio said:


> I have a custom 24-pin and 12-pin PCIe on the way and I've had some great ideas to get a little extra lighting into the center of the case where its currently a bit of a black hole. I plan to re-arrange things on this desk so I can better see the front of the case which is part of the appeal.


I really love this case.


----------



## Visi0NiL

Any way to fit two 3.5" HDDs into Torrent Compact? May be somebody drilled PSU shroud to fit 2nd drive under 1st one?


----------



## Abula

I really wish they make a DUAL CHAMBER TORRENT, would really like to see they move the PSU to the back chamber thus allowing top fans, a 804 succesor but more like a Corsair Air 540/740 but with the design of the torrent.


----------



## criccio

Abula said:


> I really wish they make a DUAL CHAMBER TORRENT, would really like to see they move the PSU to the back chamber thus allowing top fans, a 804 succesor but more like a Corsair Air 540/740 but with the design of the torrent.


Why? What would that solve?


----------



## d3v0

Really happy I managed to fit the 4090 in my *Meshify 2 Compact.*

Left: Front mounted AC Liquid Freezer II 280 with RTX 3080. Intake: AIO, Exhaust Fractal 140mm (top) and Fractal 120mm (rear).

Right: Deepcool AK620 cooler mounted on CPU to leave room for length of Gigabyte Windforce 4090. Intake: Two front Fractal 140mm, 1 front 120mm Noctua NF-A12x25.
Exhaust: Two top 140mm Fractal (top), one120mm fractal (rear).

Tried very hard to make up for lack of AIO cooling on the 5900x by cranking up the case fan volume! So far so good. Might need to reapply tim but temps are very good considering the temp downgrade and the giant 4090 in the case.


----------



## Multiplectic

Guys, does anyone here have a Meshy 2 XL with 2 AIOs in it?

So, right now I have a Meshy 2 (NonXL) with a Liquid Freezer II 420 on the top mount, which barely fits and prevents me from installing another rad+fans on the front mount.
I was planning on upgrading to an AIO-cooled 7900XTX, which likely will have a 360 rad. Then I'd upgrade to a Meshy 2 XL to be able to mount my LF2 420 + the 7900XTX with the 360 rad. I'm 90% sure they will both fit, but still I'd like to see if somebody has done the same or seen somewhere someone do it.
My plan was LF2 420 on the front and GPU 360 AIO on the top, both rads with fans in push-pull.


----------



## Mergatroid

d3v0 said:


> View attachment 2581302
> 
> 
> Really happy I managed to fit the 4090 in my *Meshify 2 Compact.*
> 
> Left: Front mounted AC Liquid Freezer II 280 with RTX 3080. Intake: AIO, Exhaust Fractal 140mm (top) and Fractal 120mm (rear).
> 
> Right: Deepcool AK620 cooler mounted on CPU to leave room for length of Gigabyte Windforce 4090. Intake: Two front Fractal 140mm, 1 front 120mm Noctua NF-A12x25.
> Exhaust: Two top 140mm Fractal (top), one120mm fractal (rear).
> 
> Tried very hard to make up for lack of AIO cooling on the 5900x by cranking up the case fan volume! So far so good. Might need to reapply tim but temps are very good considering the temp downgrade and the giant 4090 in the case.


Looks awesome.
Keep your eye on your GPU temps. I think it was LTT that did a test on cards where the card is so close to the front of the case it's almost touching a fan, and they found the air below the GPU was just turning in circles. There was no fresh air getting to the card. (they used a smoke test).

On another note...

I spent all weekend working on my PC because the Lian Li RGB software L-Connect 3, just stopped working for no reason. It would run, but it would not see my devices. I did a ton of troubleshooting, installing and uninstalling software, over and over and over...driver updates, windows updates...nothing would get it working. The odd thing is that Device Manager and their manual Firmware Tool both could see the hardware, but not l-Connect 3.

Ended up having to reinstall Windows. The I spent like another 8 hours trying different configurations and installation methods of Armoury Crate, iCue and L-Connect 3 to try and get either Armoury Crate or iCue to control everything. I did get iCue working, but like every other time I have done this, the ASUS RGB would freeze after running for a couple of minutes. I give up. It's just not worth all the time. I can't believe they just can't seem to make software that will work properly without all this hassle. So, I got the main board controlling everything except the RAM and the video card. I will look into the EVGA software, I hope it work properly.
Corsair's "rain" effect, combined with the "Starry Night" effect in ASUS Armoury Crate look very similar, so I set the system up using the corsair red and blue. Another one that works well is the "comet" effect from Armoury Crate, combined with a similar effect on the Corsair RAM.

There is one pretty cool effect on the Lian Li fans called "fill" where it looks like you are filling the fans with colour starting on one end and working its way to the other end. This is where I found out I should have connected the bottom front fan to the controller, and not the top front fan, as the system looks like the fans are filling the colour from the bottom up. Next time I clean the case I have to remove the fans and place the daisy chain connector on the bottom instead of the top. Lucky there are lots of ways to rout these cables in this case.

Gotta do a video before it stops working again....


----------



## CrustyJuggler

My Meshify C build with my recently added RX 6800 and white cabling.


----------



## d3v0

Beautiful rigs.
My temps are great - especially the windforce 4090. The bottom noctua intake 120mm is helping a lot I think. Load 62c, hotspot 72c per hwinfo.

applied the new mx-6 last night replacing my thermo grizzly, dropped 5900x temps 6c. Not to sensationalize, bc my grizzly was basically empty when I applied so coverage was bad. Oddly Cinebench 23 scores jumped 200 points to 8400.

tempted to make another run at a 20,000 GPU score in firestrike ultra now.


----------



## phillyman36

Is anyone running a Fractal Torrent with a rtx 4090 in it? Trying to figure out if the 4090 will fit in the case without the cable pressing up against the side panel. I'm really liking the looks of the Torrent.


----------



## criccio

phillyman36 said:


> Is anyone running a Fractal Torrent with a rtx 4090 in it? Trying to figure out if the 4090 will fit in the case without the cable pressing up against the side panel. I'm really liking the looks of the Torrent.




__
https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/y38l1z


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/FractalDesign/comments/y2nmaz


----------



## criccio

Added an exhaust fan (I know its an Aspect, not a Prisma for but some reason Prisma 14 RGB's are just not available easily in the US for a decent price standalone. Not sure what's up with that.


----------



## OffBeatViBE

I currently have a Fractal Define R6 and i've had it for the past 4 years and I kinda not entirely want to upgrade to another fractal case, what would be an good upgrade from that ? I've looked at the Pop Air TG Black, Meshify 2 etc etc


----------



## Mergatroid

OffBeatViBE said:


> I currently have a Fractal Define R6 and i've had it for the past 4 years and I kinda not entirely want to upgrade to another fractal case, what would be an good upgrade from that ? I've looked at the Pop Air TG Black, Meshify 2 etc etc


The Meshify is nice. Look through the builds here. Same with the Define. LTT and a few other youtubers are ranting about the Corsair 4000D. It has some nice features as well as good airflow. There is so much to choose from now, I took months for me to finally decide on my Meshify 2 XL.


----------



## d3v0

The Torrent seems to come highly recommended, and I love my Meshify 2 Compact. It's a heck of a lot of case for not very much money. Advise to avoid RGB variants as the cables get fairly excessive.


----------



## OffBeatViBE

I like the torrent as well, but I think I wanna stick to AIOs, not sure yet. I might just keep my R6 till there is a thing like R8 or Meshify 3, I don't know.


----------



## GeneO

Meshify 2 is good for aio.


----------



## OffBeatViBE

GeneO said:


> Meshify 2 is good for aio.


Any big difference between Meshify 2 and Meshify 2 Lite ?


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

OffBeatViBE said:


> Any big difference between Meshify 2 and Meshify 2 Lite ?


size..


----------



## OffBeatViBE

kairi_zeroblade said:


> size..


They are exactly the same size....


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

OffBeatViBE said:


> They are exactly the same size....


the lite seems a bit shorter for me


----------



## Always Counterclockwise

OffBeatViBE said:


> Any big difference between Meshify 2 and Meshify 2 Lite ?


If you look in the specs section of the Meshify 2 Lite page Fractal lists most of the differences. I think most people would rate the list minor. The Lite also has fewer color options.

What's oddly not on Fractal's list is the Lite comes with Aspect 14s rather than Dynamic X2 GP-14s. That's a decent increment.



kairi_zeroblade said:


> the lite seems a bit shorter for me


Fractal's dimensional specs on the two are identical.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

Always Counterclockwise said:


> If you look in the specs section of the Meshify 2 Lite page Fractal lists most of the differences. I think most people would rate the list minor. The Lite also has fewer color options.
> 
> What's oddly not on Fractal's list is the Lite comes with Aspect 14s rather than Dynamic X2 GP-14s. That's a decent increment.
> 
> Fractal's dimensional specs on the two are identical.


so they just omitted the sideway mounting of the GPU..hmmmm..


----------



## OffBeatViBE

Whats stopping me from getting meshify 2 or R7 is that they are 90% the same as my current R6 or at least I see it this way.....


----------



## bebius

CrustyJuggler said:


> My Meshify C build with my recently added RX 6800 and white cabling.
> 
> View attachment 2581751
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2581754
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 2581753


Glad to see that it can fit such a strong gpu. I've been thinking about updating my graphics and I really want to keep this beautiful small case.


----------



## CrustyJuggler

bebius said:


> Glad to see that it can fit such a strong gpu. I've been thinking about updating my graphics and I really want to keep this beautiful small case.


Thank you. I had a tough time finding anything above a 6700XT that would fit. I use 7mm standoffs on my front intake fans to reduce noise (highly recommended) which cut my GPU clearance down to 308mm. I have zero heat issues.


----------



## rusty01

Whach said:


> Lots of great photos and builds here. Below is my current beasty. Thinking of getting some lightwing fans for the cooler, might a little too much though.
> View attachment 2570139
> View attachment 2570140
> View attachment 2570141
> View attachment 2570146
> 
> View attachment 2570143
> View attachment 2570144
> View attachment 2570145





Whach said:


> Lots of great photos and builds here. Below is my current beasty. Thinking of getting some lightwing fans for the cooler, might a little too much though.
> View attachment 2570139
> View attachment 2570140
> View attachment 2570141
> View attachment 2570146
> 
> View attachment 2570143
> View attachment 2570144
> View attachment 2570145


Hi there,
I am new to the forum but i have been following the torrent build thread for a while now. I really like your build and i am almost done doing mine, however i would like to add some leds to it. My question is, what kind of LED strips did you use in your current beasty, and is the strip above the MOBO one peice or 2?

Thanks,
-Lydan


----------



## criccio

rusty01 said:


> Hi there,
> I am new to the forum but i have been following the torrent build thread for a while now. I really like your build and i am almost done doing mine, however i would like to add some leds to it. My question is, what kind of LED strips did you use in your current beasty, and is the strip above the MOBO one peice or 2?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Lydan


If I had to guess, Phanteks Neon?


----------



## Mergatroid

rusty01 said:


> Hi there,
> I am new to the forum but i have been following the torrent build thread for a while now. I really like your build and i am almost done doing mine, however i would like to add some leds to it. My question is, what kind of LED strips did you use in your current beasty, and is the strip above the MOBO one peice or 2?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Lydan


Yeah, they look like Phanteks Neon strips. You can also get Chinese strips on Amazon that are pretty much identical. Uphere makes a smaller version they market to go around your motherboard.

Phanteks makes two or three different lengths. Unfortunately you cannot cut them, and that makes excess length a little difficult to deal with. 2 1m strips will do the entire circumference of a Meshify 2 XL with about three inches left over on each strip to have to hide. I was using them for a while, but replaced them with 2 x 400mm and 2 x 550mm to get a better fit.


----------



## mgoblue

Just starting a build with the Define XL case. Looking for help, mostly around best fans to get, where to put them, while using a 360mm AIO radiator. I'm really terrible at visualizing things and am struggling here especially since there are so many fricking options.

Priority is minimizing noise (so keep the solid top panel on, I hope) while maximizing airflow. I'm willing to spend $ for the best solution. My use cases where I stress things are primarily photography and astronomy imaging workflows with some video processing where the CPU and GPUs get a real workout for 10-20 minutes at a time. I can handle some noise during those activities but would like as much quiet as I can reasonably get otherwise. Relevant equipment:

ASRock 790 TIACHI (EATX form factor)
Gigabye Gaming OC GeForce RTX 4080
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB
4 spinning HD's (maybe one more?)
be quiet! Straight Power 11 Platinum 1000W, BN644
Main questions:

I assume I'd mount the 360 radiator vertically towards the front of the case - would love to see detailed pics of someone who's done that. I believe the fans blow into the case in this config and that I'd remove the two stock fans.
I've read the stock fans, while quiet, do not perform that well. What else should I get and where can I put them? The only fan location I know for sure I can use is the rear exhaust.
Am I asking too much and do I need to use the top for ventilation?
If I totally bought the wrong thing let me know I suppose I could return something.
Many thanks in advance for any help with this.


----------



## Always Counterclockwise

mgoblue said:


> I'm willing to spend $ for the best solution.


The quietest is to move the noise sources out to external rads and a NAS somewhere you can't hear them and run a custom loop out of an airflow case. For the 3.5s drive silencers may also be an option.



mgoblue said:


> Priority is minimizing noise (so keep the solid top panel on, I hope) while maximizing airflow.


Since airflow declines pretty rapidly as open area reduces below 50%, solid paneling consistently imposes noticeable noise and thermal penalties compared to (decent) mesh. The best compromise with Defines is accepting the thermal disadvantage at idle and light load, where it's no big ideal compared to suppression of drive noise, and opening the front door during more intensive use. I'm not sure how well characterized all of the Define dust filters are, and it's unclear which version of the Define XL is in use here, but some of Fractal's filters leave much to be desired from an airflow perspective. So, depending on ambient conditions and observed temperatures, it may be worth seeing what pulling the filter does.



mgoblue said:


> I've read the stock fans, while quiet, do not perform that well.


It's unclear which fans this refers to. Fractal's Dynamics aren't great and the Silents are pretty poor. Aspect and Prisma are decent (the Dynamic GP-18 could reasonably go in the Aspect line). Arctic's ARGB ring fan implementation's definitely not as good at airflow as their earlier non-RGB impellers but is less prone to harmonic noise. So you can get something from changing to non-Arctic fans but it's not something I'd necessarily do until after evaluating how the stock fans run.



mgoblue said:


> What else should I get?


There's a thread on what for 120s and, if you don't want to do a custom loop I'd suggest this post. Most of the Define XL versions I know accept 420 rads both top and front, along with 480 fronts, however, so I'm a bit unclear why you're choosing 360 other than 1) having the LF2 360 _a priori_ or 2) taking a buy first, design second approach to this build, which is often an awkward ordering.

So far as I know 480 AIOs aren't made but the most effective default here would be to use the largest top rad which fits.



mgoblue said:


> I assume I'd mount the 360 radiator vertically towards the front of the case


If you want heating of intake air to warm up everything else in the case that's downwind of the rad, sure, but that means more fan noise off the 4080 in internal rad builds without waterblocking. You don't mention a CPU but, if it's operating below about 170 W, 140 air's quite competitive and the most effective noise reduction during compute is likely to be waterblocking the GPU to a top exhaust rad.



mgoblue said:


> If I totally bought the wrong thing let me know I suppose I could return something.


Mostly it depends on what your personal balancing of tradeoffs and priorities is, maybe see also this post.


----------



## Shenhua

It's so baffling to me that spending mentality to get the best, keeps increasing rather than deacreasing like quality of thins does, especially when it comes to this........... with at best mediocre results...........
You can throw as much money at a problem as you want, if you dont understand how things works and you're not willing to work for it.


mgoblue said:


> Just starting a build with the Define XL case. Looking for help, mostly around best fans to get, where to put them, while using a 360mm AIO radiator. I'm really terrible at visualizing things and am struggling here especially since there are so many fricking options.
> 
> Priority is minimizing noise (so keep the solid top panel on, I hope) while maximizing airflow. I'm willing to spend $ for the best solution. My use cases where I stress things are primarily photography and astronomy imaging workflows with some video processing where the CPU and GPUs get a real workout for 10-20 minutes at a time. I can handle some noise during those activities but would like as much quiet as I can reasonably get otherwise. Relevant equipment:
> 
> ASRock 790 TIACHI (EATX form factor)
> Gigabye Gaming OC GeForce RTX 4080
> ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB
> 4 spinning HD's (maybe one more?)
> be quiet! Straight Power 11 Platinum 1000W, BN644


1. Every type of cooler has a peak efficiency point. AiOs usually scale well with RPM and are very dependent on fan RPM..... Which is not very friendly with silence.........
If you put it on top, which IS the correct location for longevity purposes, it's gonna eat almost everything the GPU exhausts........... While on a test bench, the best AIO will be better than your best air cooler, in a real setup, mounted on top, it's not gonna be even close, especially as you go down in RPM as you try to tune things up for efficiency. Here's why:
Air coolers do not depend on high rpm, but rather on high volume of air displaced....... which is normally done with high RPM, but just as easily done with an efficient case (case/intake ratio......... small case/big intake).

2. Panel and noise insulation do not REDUCE volume output. It reduces/eliminates high frequencies........ (they're good for HDDs... for example). However they do reduce intake, so their terrible for fans..... Less intake=more rpm for the same temps, and more noise.......... There's no silent cases..... Just stu**** concepts that do not work, but since ppl are very linear thinking.............
Bottom line and with a few asterics like HDDs and coil whine, an airflow case, will always be less noisy......

3. You can´t have silence with so many HDDs........... at least not trying to dampen the noise. If you can make them stop spinning when they're inactive that could be a solution. Which leads me to the next item:

4. Starting temperature for case fans it's a very good way to keep noise well bellow 30dba (virtually inaudible...... do not mistake with silent) while at idle and low loads. You can coolers fans spinning low at 300-400rpm. It's also at the same time, the best anti-dust measure for rigs like yours that stay awake for long periods but only need case cooling very sporadically.

5. Get a power supply with "hybrid fan mode". So the fans doesnt spin either when it's not needed.

6. Get a GPU with a flat radiator and mod it with case fans.......

7. Power limit and undervolt/ tweak for peak efficiency of the coolers and rig in general......... For example for the 13900k find the best OC with a 180 power limit for a D15 in a 45 liters case with 3x140 front intakes, all running at 900-1k rpm. Shouldnt lose much performance, while maintaining decent thermals and with very good noise.👌
Do the same for the GPU, considering the model............. 300-350w with a case fan mod and 1k-1.2k RPM (depending on the type and size of fan you use) should be very doable.... Translated to numbers, this should like something like this: at 22ºC ambient and noise measure at 50cm, 65ºC for GPU, 70ºC+ for CPU, noise 35-36dba......

If this was for me, i would probably find a fractal define S (old case), mod the front panel to mesh, remove the filter and mount the 3 HDDs that work the most in the stock slots, then mount rest of them on the walls....... leaving the top sealed. That case can perfectly fit 10HDDs without hindering airflow for a D15+4080.........
Fan config would be 3x140mm in front, rear completly open, 1x140 side fan (intake or exhaust.......... testing needed to find best results)

......the problem are the HDDs.......


----------



## mgoblue

Thanks for the thoughtful reply and information, which I have reviewed. I don't know that I've figured out all of the quoting capabilities so please bare with me and I'll try to be clear around some clarifications and requests.

Having considered some of the options I'm really most interested in doing the best with what I have (vs. swapping out major components, building a custom loop, getting a different 4080 GPU - they are pretty hard to find right now). I spend most of my days doing office/remote works stuff where I want quiet, and can definitely open the door during compute heavy tasks to increase airflow while keeping the solid case cover on to reduce noise. I though long and hard about the case, with a front mounted USB-C being mandatory and decided to go for quiet at the expense of airflow with the Define XL. It's the "regular" version that comes with the 3x Dynamic X2 GP-14 fans.

I think my main concern is probably how to best configure the case with the 360 AIO cooler. Assuming it's mounted vertically in the front of the case does it make any sense and is it even possible to do a push pull configuration with 6x120mm fans? And I agree, I'll see how the stock fans are I think on the AIO before worrying about replacing them.



Always Counterclockwise said:


> ...
> It's unclear which fans this refers to. Fractal's Dynamics aren't great and the Silents are pretty poor. Aspect and Prisma are decent (the Dynamic GP-18 could reasonably go in the Aspect line). Arctic's ARGB ring fan implementation's definitely not as good at airflow as their earlier non-RGB impellers but is less prone to harmonic noise. So you can get something from changing to non-Arctic fans but it's not something I'd necessarily do until after evaluating how the stock fans run.
> 
> There's a thread on what for 120s and, if you don't want to do a custom loop I'd suggest this post. Most of the Define XL versions I know accept 420 rads both top and front, along with 480 fronts, however, so I'm a bit unclear why you're choosing 360 other than 1) having the LF2 360 _a priori_ or 2) taking a buy first, design second approach to this build, which is often an awkward ordering.
> ... (mounting AIO radiator vertically in the front)
> If you want heating of intake air to warm up everything else in the case that's downwind of the rad, sure, but that means more fan noise off the 4080 in internal rad builds without waterblocking. You don't mention a CPU but, if it's operating below about 170 W, 140 air's quite competitive and the most effective noise reduction during compute is likely to be waterblocking the GPU to a top exhaust rad.
> 
> Mostly it depends on what your personal balancing of tradeoffs and priorities is, maybe see also this post.


I chose the Arctic 360 for convenience, performance (noise/cooling), availability, and cost.

I understand the drawback of mounting the 360 rad in the front wrt the 4080 and heating the case air, so how can I optimize the exhaust in the Define XL case? E.g., replace the stock exhaust fan with something with decent noise but with more airflow than the Dynamic X2 GP-14? With the constraints of the listed components are there other places I can put exhaust fans and if so where, how big, and what would people suggest for low noise and high airflow fans for my situation? Can I / should I move the HDD cage somewhere besides the default lower front configuration?

For convenience here's the major component list going into the case.

ASRock 790 TIACHI (EATX form factor) - _CPU is a 13900K_
Gigabye Gaming OC GeForce RTX 4080
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB
4 spinning HD's (maybe one more?)
be quiet! Straight Power 11 Platinum 1000W, BN644


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## Always Counterclockwise

mgoblue said:


> how can I optimize the exhaust in the Define XL case?


You kind of can't since the ATX form factor doesn't provide particularly effective airflow for anything except a CPU tower cooler. The blowers on AIO GPU and the push fans on Nvidia FE coolers send some of the hot air out the PCIe slots rather than making it all sideflow or flowthrough. But, for the rest, basically the way it works is spinning up the front intakes to bring in enough cool air to push GPU exhaust out open area at the back of the case. The Defines are historically kind bad for this due to leaving rear area closed, though the most recent iterations (which don't include the 7 XL) are better due to apparent convergence with the Meshify tooling. Other than not placing it in front, there's also no way around a front AIO making the arrangement not work quite as well.

Assuming you're ok with power limiting if you need to (which admittedly somewhat defeats spending for a 13900K), what I'd do is build with the front AIO and see how much you need to lean on the intake fans to get desirable thermals at interesting level of CPU+GPU power over what workload duration. If you're planning to leave both parts at stock and don't have particularly high ambients, I suspect the thermals will be acceptable but the RPMs will be higher than you'd like―it's not something I've specifically tried, though, so I'm guesstimating from adjacent experience. (The balance of evidence does suggest this type of approach tends to work a bit better in smaller cases. The lower cross sectional area means a given amount of fans yield higher ariflow velocities, but it's not a major issue.)



mgoblue said:


> Assuming it's mounted vertically in the front of the case does it make any sense and is it even possible to do a push pull configuration with 6x120mm fans?


Plenty of room to clear the GPU since your drives aren't in the way. For the Define 7 XL Fractal shows most of that in the manual. IIRC the manuals for earlier versions are similar.

Push-pull is usually only 1–2 °C cooler but allows lower RPM for a given level of cooling, so can be worth it for noise. With your own measurements plus those in LF2 360 reviews you'll have the data needed tore reason about how likely push-pull is to be worthwhile. Really what matters for livability here is how much of the potential ~625 W from the 13900K+4080 16 GB is actually generated by your workloads.



mgoblue said:


> Can I / should I move the HDD cage somewhere besides the default lower front configuration?


 @shilka might suggest some of the higher airflow top and shroud mounts. Another option is a 120 under the AIO bringing in cool air below the shroud, which is what I'm more inclined towards at this point. Filling 2x2 in the bottom cages (if this is a Define 7 XL or equivalent) may also be a bit quieter than the more open mounts. Ultimately, probably the best answer you're going to get for internal drives is to measure both ways and assess based on how the tradeoffs look.



mgoblue said:


> With the constraints of the listed components are there other places I can put exhaust fans and if so where, how big, and what would people suggest for low noise and high airflow fans for my situation?


Your case's documentation will show you where the rear fan mount is. The only data I'm aware of for an additional placement is Gamers Nexus' review of the Lian Li Lancool 216.



Shenhua said:


> 30dba (virtually inaudible...... do not mistake with silent)


As an aside, 30 dB(A)'s getting annoyingly loud for me. I'm ok with 20 dB(A), not that it's very achievable with 3.5s.


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## GeneO

I forget. Can you take the top off of an Define 7 XL and make it mesh? That will give front intake configuration more exhaust free flow out the top. Maybe a little nosier, but cooler.


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## Multiplectic

GeneO said:


> I forget. Can you take the top off of an Define 7 XL and make it mesh?


Eeeh, kinda, yeah.



















Technically not mesh, but it's the same effect.


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## GeneO

Positive pressure would keep the dust out while on. Too bad there isn't a screen mesh layer.


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## Elrick

Multiplectic said:


> Eeeh, kinda, yeah.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Technically not mesh, but it's the same effect.


Please remove the internal fine mesh, not needed if you have exhaust fans fitted there or have an AIO installed.

I've done that and the air really gets funnelled out of the top case, like a hurricane going in one direction, up  .

You can feel it......you can feel it..........YOU can FFFEEEEELLLLL IT  .


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## GeneO

You don't need fans on top necessarily. With one exhaust fan in back, a mesh top (any fine mesh keeps dust out when computer is off or sleeping), and three fans pulling in front, you don't need fans on top - the positive pressure from the intake will push excess hot air out the top mesh. And it is quieter.


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## mgoblue

Always Counterclockwise said:


> ... But, for the rest, basically the way it works is spinning up the front intakes to bring in enough cool air to push GPU exhaust out open area at the back of the case. The Defines are historically kind bad for this due to leaving rear area closed, though the most recent iterations (which don't include the 7 XL) are better due to apparent convergence with the Meshify tooling. Other than not placing it in front, there's also no way around a front AIO making the arrangement not work quite as well.
> 
> Assuming you're ok with power limiting if you need to (which admittedly somewhat defeats spending for a 13900K), what I'd do is build with the front AIO and see how much you need to lean on the intake fans to get desirable thermals at interesting level of CPU+GPU power over what workload duration....
> ...
> Push-pull is usually only 1–2 °C cooler but allows lower RPM for a given level of cooling, so can be worth it for noise. With your own measurements plus those in LF2 360 reviews you'll have the data needed tore reason about how likely push-pull is to be worthwhile. Really what matters for livability here is how much of the potential ~625 W from the 13900K+4080 16 GB is actually generated by your workloads.
> 
> @shilka might suggest some of the higher airflow top and shroud mounts. Another option is a 120 under the AIO bringing in cool air below the shroud, which is what I'm more inclined towards at this point. Filling 2x2 in the bottom cages (if this is a Define 7 XL or equivalent) may also be a bit quieter than the more open mounts. Ultimately, probably the best answer you're going to get for internal drives is to measure both ways and assess based on how the tradeoffs look.
> ...


Thank you all this is super helpful. I am fortunate enough to have a dedicated ductless "mini split" AC unit for my room and can control ambient ;-) With my situation, normally not doing anything too intense, but pegging everything for relatively brief periods, the idea of living with some "fans on max" noise is one I will explore. Push-pull with the front AIO looks like the simplest next-thing to try if I'm not happy. I did get a Noctua replacement for the rear case fan which may help a bit.


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## rusty01

mgoblue said:


> Thanks for the thoughtful reply and information, which I have reviewed. I don't know that I've figured out all of the quoting capabilities so please bare with me and I'll try to be clear around some clarifications and requests.
> 
> Having considered some of the options I'm really most interested in doing the best with what I have (vs. swapping out major components, building a custom loop, getting a different 4080 GPU - they are pretty hard to find right now). I spend most of my days doing office/remote works stuff where I want quiet, and can definitely open the door during compute heavy tasks to increase airflow while keeping the solid case cover on to reduce noise. I though long and hard about the case, with a front mounted USB-C being mandatory and decided to go for quiet at the expense of airflow with the Define XL. It's the "regular" version that comes with the 3x Dynamic X2 GP-14 fans.
> 
> I think my main concern is probably how to best configure the case with the 360 AIO cooler. Assuming it's mounted vertically in the front of the case does it make any sense and is it even possible to do a push pull configuration with 6x120mm fans? And I agree, I'll see how the stock fans are I think on the AIO before worrying about replacing them.
> 
> 
> 
> I chose the Arctic 360 for convenience, performance (noise/cooling), availability, and cost.
> 
> I understand the drawback of mounting the 360 rad in the front wrt the 4080 and heating the case air, so how can I optimize the exhaust in the Define XL case? E.g., replace the stock exhaust fan with something with decent noise but with more airflow than the Dynamic X2 GP-14? With the constraints of the listed components are there other places I can put exhaust fans and if so where, how big, and what would people suggest for low noise and high airflow fans for my situation? Can I / should I move the HDD cage somewhere besides the default lower front configuration?
> 
> For convenience here's the major component list going into the case.
> 
> ASRock 790 TIACHI (EATX form factor) - _CPU is a 13900K_
> Gigabye Gaming OC GeForce RTX 4080
> ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB
> 4 spinning HD's (maybe one more?)
> be quiet! Straight Power 11 Platinum 1000W, BN644


I am assuming you have the Define 7 XL case with 3 included gp14 fans. Also assuming you are stuck with this hardware, then i would proceed as follows:
1. I would ditch the gp14-fans and try using the included AIO's fans in push on the Liquid Freezer ii, and mount the rad at the front of the case. It is usually a worthy trade off of slightly higher GPU temps but significantly lower CPU temps. I would also look into getting at least one more of the same fan for the back of the case as exhaust. ALTERNATIVLY you could get 4 Phanteks T30 fans and put 3 of them in push on the rad same thing at front of case and 1 as exhaust mounted at the back of the case. The T30's are basically the best fans on the market
2. Replace the CPU clamping bracket on your motherboard immediately with the Thermalright LGA1700-BCF Contact Frame, you can find it on amazon typically. This has been proven to lower thermals by up to 7 deg C and takes alot of stress off the board and CPU. Look up Gamers Nexus videos on it, honestly at this point i believe all 12th and 13th gen boards with LGA1700 should have the stock Lotes bracket replaced with this superior design
4. Since your top cover will be closed You can experiment by facing your PSU fan inwards, so it acts as an exhuast for the case, aiding the GPU cooling a bit and giving the air somewhere to go
3. If your willing to mod you can de-shroud your gpu and put some noctua or phanteks fans on it to. It would require custom wiring and a good knowledge of fabrication, so proceed at your own risk.
4. You can use liquid metal as your interface on the cpu-block and/or lap the cpu if you want to get real fancy
5. Seeing how you are trying to cool a monster CPU and GPU, undervolting is practically a must if you want silence
6. You will need to spend a good amount of time tuning your fan profiles to keep them in check vs temps

All that said, the case you have chosen will be quite restrictive which always forces the fans to spin faster and noise will go up. I have a define R6, and though it is a great server case for all my hard drives, i do not use it as my daily PC near me or it would drive me crazy with the noise from both the stock fans and the HDD's. 
I have now built my new PC in, and found that, the 'Fractal Torrent' with its 2 giant 180mm fans has amazing airflow while keeping the noise to a minimum. There are larger 3.5" HDD's available which i could mount 2 of, but i am doing all SSD this time, for silence. I am currently experimenting with the bottom case fans as the 3 Prisma AL14's it came with were too noisy and i removed them. Currently i have 2 Prolima Tech Ultra Sleek Vortex 14 fans in the bottom and they are nice and quiet along with the stock front 180's. I am using the Deepcool AK620 air cooler on a 13600k because i hate pump noise. If you were to jump ship and use the Torrent case instead, i would either use the current AIO you have, or the 420 version as illustrated in level-ups video here: 



 . If you dont trust the link just search youtube for:
Arctic Liquid Freezer II 420 ARGB AIO takes on the i9-12900K by LevelUp Gaming & Tech, he made a great video

Really thats all i can say for now. The ARGB fans from arctic look amazing and i am personally going to try 3 of them (140mm) in the bottom of my torrent case to add some RGB bling back to it and see how they perform.

Good luck with your build


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## Always Counterclockwise

rusty01 said:


> It is usually a worthy trade off of slightly higher GPU temps but significantly lower CPU temps.


Broadly agree with you. I'd like to contribute a few notes though.

Views go both ways for sure but the net balance of opinion I've encountered is GPU temperature elevation from front AIO is undesirable. Apropos of current discussion, increased GPU temperatures are usually associated with greater noise than increased CPU temperatures. Partly due to the low profile limitations of most GPU fans but, even in deshrouding and modding scenarios (which @mgoblue 's desire to work with what they have presumably excludes), is still limited by the ATX form factor's poor GPU layout for airflow. Absent side fan mounts, I'd suggest front CPU AIO is attractive primarily when CPU power is expected to be somewhat higher than GPU power, which probably isn't typical of 13900K+4090 operating points. Fractal unfortunately lacks competitors to Corsair and Lian Li's cases where a side AIO can be combined with front intake fans which, IMO, is weird as the Define XLs, Meshify XLs, and full size Torrent are all big enough to support this.
It's covered in more detail in the fan thread linked on the previous page and from time to time in the air cooling subforum, but PH-F120T30s are slightly outperformed by competitors at typical fan speeds. T30s have been shown to offer slight advantages from ~1500 RPM and up but, even if one needs the 2000–3000 RPM range that's not of immediate interest to the build of current discussion, which of PH-F120T30, Silent Wings 4, or similar fans work best probably depends on the exact rad and which individual fans you get. My experience suggests it's likely to slide into microoptimizations where you buy a bunch of fans, cherry pick the best ones, and check on spread spectrum configurations such as 2xT30+1xSW4, 1xT30+2xSW4, T30+SW4+NF-A12x25, setting somewhat different fan curves for fans of the same type, and so on.
I'm one of the apparently few people who's done comparative measurements on the 2x180 offered in the Torrent and Torrent Compact versus other configurations. In the Compact 3x120 ran a dB(A) or so quieter and a few degrees cooler than 2x180 at 500 W system power. I also found a 3070 Ti in the Compact did not replicate Gamers Nexus' several degree reduction when pushing air into their 1080 with bottom fans—while bringing 2x140 out of fan stop made a measurable difference at ~275 W TGP it wasn't clearly worthwhile. Also, @mgoblue wants four or five internal 3.5s where the Torrents max out at two. I know it's a Fractal thread but the most applicable airflow alternatives for this build are probably the Corsair 7000D and Lian Li Lancool III.
I've seen anywhere from no improvement to 15 °C reported for LGA1700 contact frames, partly depending on time spent unmounting and remounting trying to optimize screw torques but also substantially on luck in the cooler-IHS contact lottery. 5 °C or so seems fairly typical so, yeah, I also can't realistically see doing an LGA1700 build without a frame. Particularly at Thermalright's pricing.
The measurements I have show pretty weak coupling between top vents and GPUs. Easy test, though, so no reason not to run it.
Kaze Flex should be another pretty good RGB option in 140.



rusty01 said:


> I am using the Deepcool AK620 air cooler on a 13600k because i hate pump noise.


As an aside, FYI.


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## Whach

rusty01 said:


> Hi there,
> I am new to the forum but i have been following the torrent build thread for a while now. I really like your build and i am almost done doing mine, however i would like to add some leds to it. My question is, what kind of LED strips did you use in your current beasty, and is the strip above the MOBO one peice or 2?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Lydan


Hi! It is the Phanteks NEON Digital RGB Strip. I initially bought a combo pack of 2x400mm strips and single 550mm strip. I then repurchased them again to line the mobo tray area. The strip above my mobo in the photo is a single 400mm strip. I am controlling them all with Signal RGB.


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## Barefooter

Whach said:


> Hi! It is the Phanteks NEON Digital RGB Strip. I initially bought a combo pack of 2x400mm strips and single 550mm strip. I then repurchased them again to line the mobo tray area. The strip above my mobo in the photo is a single 400mm strip. I am controlling them all with Signal RGB.


Those are some nice looking RGB strips! I'll have to try those out on my next build.

I would love to see how the inside of the case lights up with them on all white. If you get a chance to post a picture with all the RGBs set to white that would be awesome.


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## Whach

Barefooter said:


> Those are some nice looking RGB strips! I'll have to try those out on my next build.
> 
> I would love to see how the inside of the case lights up with them on all white. If you get a chance to post a picture with all the RGBs set to white that would be awesome.


Here you go. Note, the back motherboard tray strips were damaged and turned yellow on a white setting. Phanteks have just sent me free replacements (I haven't installed them yet). Good customer service = )









Here's a gif of a light pattern using SignalRGB. RGB software in general is terrible.


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## Barefooter

Whach said:


> Here you go. Note, the back motherboard tray strips were damaged and turned yellow on a white setting. Phanteks have just sent me free replacements (I haven't installed them yet). Good customer service = )
> View attachment 2588530
> 
> 
> Here's a gif of a light pattern using SignalRGB. RGB software in general is terrible.
> View attachment 2588532


Thank you! Looks great in all white! Rep+


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## Whach

Barefooter said:


> Thank you! Looks great in all white! Rep+


No problem! Show some photos when you’ve completed your build!


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## Owterspace

A current shot of mine:


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## Lare111

Here's my Be Quiet! themed Meshify 2 Compact. I really like the combination of black color theme with subtle RGB lighting. My i7-11700F and RTX 3070 Ti run cool and this thing is very quiet under heavy 1440p gaming.


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